The New Larousse Gastronomique

w The lt-lew • l Larous se G as tronomique

Prefaces by Auguste Eseofrer and Phtl6as Gllbert to the or{gtnal edltion of to

Larousse Gastronomique Publishers' note note Publishers' Escffier died before the edition o/ Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique was first edition of Larousse Escoffier died before the first published in great,king IgJg; the of cooks and the cook of of kings' kings, wrote wrote puhlished in 1938; the great 'king of cooks and the cook preface his phitias after readhg the draft of the manusuipt. his reading the first draft of the Philéa.s Gilbert laler later saw saw the the complete work work and and added added aa supplementary supplementary preface. preface. Gilbert

The history of of the the table of aa nation nation is is aa reflection of the the cÏvilization civilization of of that nation. nation. To To show show the The table of reflection of

changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe comment on the ...., .........b'~'" in the order and of meals from to to describe and comment progress of the French cuisine, is to paint a picture of the many stages through which progress of the French is to a of the which a a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating wild roots, has ev01ved since the distant times when, as a weak tribe, men lived caves, fOOts,

raw raw fish fish and and the the still still pulsating flesh flesh of of animals animais killed kiHed with with the the spear. spear. It is this history that is the subject of Larowse inwhich It is this that is the of Larousse Gastronomtqtrc, Ga.stronomique, in which Prosper Montagn6 has outlined .pages all thousandpages aH the the improvements improvements brought brought to to the the culinary art art from outlined in in some sorne thousand prehlstoric times to the present day. Presented in the form of a dictionary, it sums up all that has "", • .u.",~,","'''''' times to the Presented in the form of a dictionary, it aH that has been achieved by the science of alimentation, and everything in it has been minutely studied and and in it has been studied and been achieved described. described. Those Those who who make make a a profession pr()te~;Slcm of gastronomy will will find find in in this this book book matter matter for for comparison between what used to be the art of good eating and what it is today. Housewives will be particularly between what used to he the art of Housewives win be interested in the evolution of the table through the ages, its refinements modified in each epoch*to a înterested in the evolution of the table the ages, its refinements modified in each a certain extent by the exigencies of reigning fashions. hofessional cooks, both men and women, will the of """F.~J fashions. Professional both men and women, wî11 certain extent be HA~~!-,M~~ of of aa culinary technique founded founded on on the the universally llnIV"""C::~ be able able to to draw draw inspiration from the principles recognized knowledge and authority of the author. The text of the book and the recipes are enlivened are enlivened of the author. The text of the book and the by and legendary .'"'/5,""' .......... tales. by attractive attractive anecdotes anecdotes and tlVhile waiting to read them in print, I went through the While to read them in the innumerable innumerable manuscript pages pages of of this this encyclopedia and I am still under the spell cast by this work. How could it have been completed so this work. How could it have been so cm;ycloptoolla and 1 am still under the rapidly? For For the the author author had had only one one collaborator, albeit albeit an an eminent eminent one, one. who who was was entrusted entrusted with with all aH scientific scientific and and medical medical subjects, and and the the material material was was prepared in in less less than than three three yearsi. years. Iarotuse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude precision and in Larousse Gastronomique is a model of exactitude and in all an that that concerns concerns the the etymology of ofcertain certainwords, the thedefinition definition of ofculinary terms, terms, the theorigin of offoods foods inin everyday use useand and the the many many recipes for each grven dish. dish. ..UJIF.

Symbols Sym bolsofplenty of p!enl y- -bread breadand andwine, wme.meat mealand andeggs cggs(phot. (Phal. Nicotasl Nico/as)

and there are some very attractive Numerous descriptive photographs illustrate illustratecertain certain subjects, subjects, and there are sorne very attractive plates show finished dishes with their reproductions of antique engravings. Magnificent colour show tinished dishes with their col our appropriate garnishes. were well aware of this, had not Such work would would have have been been incomplete, and and the the authors authors were well aware of this, had not Such aa work vineyards. The greatest of these, considerable considerable space spacebeen beenreserved reserved for for the the riches riches of ofour ourfamous famous French French vineyards. The greatest of these, classified, are shown together ~V!,~"'~.""'l in in explicit tables. tables. some gastronomes of great renown of Finally, the biographies of certain certain maitres maîtres de de cuisine cuisine and and sorne gastronomes of great renown gastronomical bibliography mentions a are are for for ever ever immortalized immortalized in in these these pages, pages, and and aa culinary culinary and and gastronomical bibliography mentions a to the bibliophiles. great great number number of of works, some some of of which which are are perhaps perhaps unknown unknown to the bibliophiles. will find that Prosper Montagn6's All AH those those who who make make aa cult cult of of good eating and and good drinking drinking will find that Prosper Montagné's with interest and one that will have a Larousse Larousse Gastronomique Gastronomique isindeed is indeed aa work work that that they they will will consult consult with interest and one that will have a merited and just reward, which I prominent place in And this this will wîll be be the the author's author's merited and just reward, which 1 in their their library. library. And heartily applaud. Auguste Escoffier Auguste Escoffier

read the first draft of the after having formed after opinion he the opinion outlined the his preface, Escoffier outlined In his ln he formed having read the tirst draft of the completed' Being in a and revised later considerably revised was later Thismanuscript Gastronomique. This Lqousse Gastronomique. and in a Larousse manuscript was these final pages that my judgment was of these study of the study on the was on it was he, it position than than he, favourable positîon more favourable more final pages that my was founded because I have been able to see better founded the better is ait all the and is Escoffier and of Escoffier that of with that conforms with because 1 have been able to see based; itit conforms he predicted. what he for myself what Predicted. for prosper Montagnd, realized that he had undertaken a formidable of Prosper friends of otd friends and Escoffier and l,I, old Montagné, reaHzed that he had undertaken a formidable Escoffier understand the importance, but knowing can understand works can of culinary works authors of the authors only the which only of which one of task, one task, the but extensive erudition and his professional his extensive willpower, inflexible will his inflexible and his work and for work his capacity for his power, his erudition and his professional great cooks of our time, we were certain that he place among among great first place the first in the him in which puts him knowledge, which knowledge, cooks of our we were certain that he conclusion' successful a to it bring it to a successful conclusion. would bring would food or who are interested with food do with to do anything to have anything who have those who all those to ail wrote, itit isis to Escoffier wrote, As Escoffier As or who are interested addressed. It is-dare say it-the book îsis addressed. this book that this table, that the table, and the cuisineand the cuisine of the history of in the the history in It is-dare 1 say it-the of Prosper Montagnd. work of the professional work of the apotheosis of apotheosis vade-mecum for everyone' a reliable is-a vade-mecum mustbecome-and Gastrinomiquemust Larousse Gastronomique Larousse become--and itit already is-a for everyone, a reliable what subject connected with the matter what no matter onno and on momentand anymoment consulted atatany to be beconsulted ready to counsellor rcady subject connected with the counsellor table' thetable. ofthe artsof thearts and the sciencesand alimentary sciences alimentary effort may find its reward and perseveringeffort suchaa magnificent and thatsuch heartily that wish heartily Like Escoffier,l Iwish may find its reward Like deserves from any point it which welcome a conceived, it was whom for those of welcome the in in the welcome of those for whom ît was /"1"",,/""'1\,,"'''' a welcome which il deserves from any ofview. of Phil6as Gilbert Philéas Gilbert

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THE NEW

LAROUSSE GASIil}K(EN@NilHruffiTE MI T THE ENCYCLOPEDIA EE PE lA OF FO FOOD, WINE \TINE OF

& COOKERY OOKERY

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7fontagni by Prosper J\!(ontagné

AMERICAN AMERICAN EDITOR, EDITOR: CT{ARLOTTE CHARLOTTE TURGEON TURGEON PREFACE ROBERT J. COURTTNE PREFACE BY BY ROBERT]. COURTINE

oRrcrNAL ORIGINAL pREFACEs PREFACES By BY AucusrE AUGUSTE EscoFFrER ESCOFFIER AND pmldns PHILÉAS GTLBERT GILBERT TEXT THE FRENCH TEXT TRANSLATED TRANSLATED FROM THE FRENCH BY MARION MARION HUNTER HUNTER M.I.L. M.LL.

too o 1000

ations 1Jncluding Jllustr ncluding Jllustrations

7[any Many in Jull '}=ull Color

CRO\TN INC. CROWN PUBLISHERS, PUBLIS E IN .· NE NEWT YORK

Prosper Montagn6 Montagné by Prosper Originally published published under under the the title N ouv e au Lar ou s s e G astronomique Nouveau Larousse Gastronomique American Charlotte Turgeon American Editor Editor:: Charlotte

CopyrightLibrairieLarousse, © Librairie Larousse, Paris 19. 1960 @ Copyright

Hamlyn Publishing Group Limited Copyright English text The Hamlyn © Copyright Limited 1977 @

All AU rights reserved. No part of this book may be reproduced or utilized in including photocopymechanical, including any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, photocopyretrieval system,without storage and retrieval ing, recording, or by any information system, without inlormation storage permission permission in writing lrorn from the Publisher. Inquiries Inquiries should be addressed to inwriting New York, N.Y. 10016. Crown Publishers, Inc., One Park Avenue, New Publishers,Inc., Printed in the U.S.A. Printed U.S.A. Company Limited Published simultaneously Publishing Company simultaneously in Canada Canada by General Publishing C ongr es s Cataloging C atalo ging in Publication Library of Congress Publication Data Library

Main entry under under title: gastronomique. Larousse gastronomique. The New Larousse gastronomique. Translation of Nouveau Translation Nouveau Larousse gastronomique. published under Larousse 1961, by under title: title: Larousse Ed. for for 1961, by P. P. Montagné, Montagnd, published Ed. gastronomique. gastronomique. 1. Cookery-Dictionaries-French. 2. Food-Dictionaries1. 2. Food-DictionariesFrench. 3. 3. Cookery, Cookery, French. French. 1. I. Dunbar, Dunbar, Janet. Janet. Il. II. Montagné, Montagnd, Prosper, French. gastronomique. 1 865- 1948. Larousse gastronomique. 1865-1948. TX349.M613 1977 1977 641'.03 641'.O3 77-9905 TX349.M613 0-517-53 137-2 ISBN 0-517-53137-2

Preface In his preface to first edition of Larousse In to the the first Gas tr onomique Escoffier wrote: wrote : Gastronomique 'The history history of 'The of a nation's table is a reflection of the civilisation the civilisation of of that nation. To To show that nation. show the changes changes in the order and serving of meals from century to century, to describe and comment on the progress of the French cuisine, is is to paint a picture many stages picture of the the many stages through through which which a nation has evolved since the distant times when, as aa weak tribe, men lived in dark caves, eating as wild roots, raw fish and the still pulsating flesh of animals killed animaIs kiUed with the spear. 'It is this history that is the subject 'It of Larousse subjectof Montagn6 has Gastronomique, in which Prosper Montagné pages aH some thousand outlined in sorne thousand pages all the improvements from preart from brought to to the the culinary art ments brought historic times to the historic thé present day. Presented in the of a dictionary, dictionary, it sums up aIl form of all that has been achieved by by the achieved the science science of of alimentation, alimentation, and everything in it it has has been been minutely studied and described. 'Those 'Those who make a profession of gastronomy

will find find in this book for comparison will in this book matter matter for between what used used to be the art of good eating what it and what it is will be and is today. today. Housewives Housewives will particularly interested interested in in the the evolution of of the table through through the ages, ages, its refinements modified in in each each epoch -- to to aa certain extent by by the certain extent reigning fashions. exigencies of of reigning exigencies fashions. Professional Professional cooks, both both men men and women, will be able to draw principles of inspiration from of aa culinary from the the principles technique founded on the universally recognised technique recognÎsed knowledge and authority of of the author. The rest of the book and and the the recipes are are enlivened enlivened by attractive anecdotes anecdotes and legendary legendary tales.' work of Prosper Montagn6 The work Montagné (and of Dr. Gottschalk, who who helped him Gottschalk, him notably with with the historical, scien tific and medical scientific medical material) is an historic work which it 1S is proper to revive today, historic adding new gastronomic while retaining its SLflDD()IDIC treats white style and and balance. Indeed, if if the the history of domestic cooking, which is inseparable inseparable from the domestîc history of the people, hasn't changed and if the great recipes remain remain the same despite despite the great the same tremendous simplification of modern modern cooking, tremendous on the other other hand dietetics is a new science which

has rediscovered redîscovered -- in order to endorse endorse them --- the broad ancient practice, somewhat broad outlines outlines of ancient somewhat forgotten since the beginning forgotten beginning of of this century. It It is essential to incorporate into this work work the lessons essential learnt from from aa combination combination of ancient wisdom and modern research. Legislation, as has modified modified the weH, has as well, the basic nutrition of twentieth-century twentieth-century man, and if if the man, and gourmet can still, with justification, reject certain gourmet progress, he must forms of must nevertheless take forms of progress, note of them. them. Moreover, taking his pleasures of the table where he can find thern, he has to recogrocognise, for for instance, instance, that freezing or freezenise, that deep deep freezing drying (words which w€re were unknown to Prosper Montagn6 and his contemporaries) offer to the Montagné and as well as to appetite as weIl as to the the greed greed of man man many satisfying satisfying solutions. solutions. The laws pertaining to vines have The laws wine and to wine and vines wine scene the wine in France. altered the considerably altered scene in Chefs in general are little Httle interested În in wine, and this is doubtless whyhitherto why hitherto Larotnse Larousse Gastronomique has neglected I ne~~ectea the cellar. My friends and 1 have made a better selection from French wines and those from other countries, countries, bearing bearing in mind the latest rules and regulations. Jean Desmur, who may deserve thetitle'Pic the-title 'Pic de La Mirandole de la la gastronomie', took La Mirandole de took upon duty himself the the dut y of recounting the details of the details gastronomical folklore, domestic history and and gastronomical domestic history date with what and because hecause one must be he up to to date one loves, we Est list the food and wine associations which have have multiplied multiplied since the last war. All this rounds out the original work without AH changing the direction or the balance. This either changing either profound wish. least our profound is aatt least It remains for me to introduce and thank the contributors of this new edîtion: contributors edition: Madeleine Decure, director of the the publication et vins Cuisine el Cuisine vins de France Jean D. Jean D. Arnaboldi, Arnaboldi, chief editor editor of the the publication ca tion Bien Bien Vivre Frangoise d'Athis, general secretary of of the the Revue du vin de France of I'Acad6mie Rabelais Henry Clos-Jouve, ofl'Académie Jean Desmur Robert J. Courtine Courtine Pierre Neuville Neuville

Table of of Comparative Comparative Measures Measrrres Table Note Note Published for throughout the for use use throughout the world, world, this this edition edition of of LAROUSSE Published LAROUSSE GASTRONOMIQUE contains contains American American and and British British equivalents GASTRONOMIQUE equivalents as as well as as original original French French measurements measurements in in aIl all recipes. recipes. Occasionally weIl Occasionally what what appears to to be be aa discrepancy discrepancy in in conversion conversion may may occur. occur. In appears In fact fact this this results results from proportionate proportionate alteration quantities throughout alteration of of quantities throughout that that recipe from recipe in in order to to avoid avoid awkward awkward fractions in measurements. measurements. fractions in order The cups cups and quoted, together and tablespoons tablespoons quoted, together with The with the the French French measures, measures, in this this book book are are American American Standard, standard, which which are in slightly smaller are slightly smaller in in capacity than than British British Standard standard cups cups and capacity and spoons. spoons. The The American American and and Canadian Standard pint measuring Standard -!-* pint Canadian measuring cup cup has has aa capacity capacity of of 88 fluid fluid ounces; the the British British Standard Standard Imperial pint measuring ounces; Imperial -!-] pint measuring cup cup has has aa e'apacity of 10 fluid of 10 fluid ounces. capacity ounces. The The American American and and Canadian canadian Standard Standard measuring tablespoon tablespoon measures measures i$ fluid measuring fluid ounce; ounce; the the British British Standard Standard tablespoon measures measures 1I fluid tablespoon fluid ounce. ounce. 33 teaspoons teaspoons are are equal equal to to 1I tabletablespoon. All measureme measutrmrlttr ts refer refer to to LEVEL LEVEL spoons spoons and and cups. cups.

LIQUID LIQIJID MEASURES MEASTJRES French

American American

British British

li lf pints

4i 4| cups cups or 1 quart 2 ounces orlquart2ounces

1I demilitre (-!$ litre)

pint iI pi nt (generous)

22 cups (generous) cups (generous) or pint (generous) (generous) or 11 pint

1I decili tre (($ -il> litre) decilitre

3-4 3-4 ounces

1-* cup (scant) cup (seant)

1I litre

1

or pint (seant) (scant) or iI pint

WEIGHT WBIGHT French 1

1I gram 1

28·35 28.35 grams

British and and American .035 .035 ounce -1I ounce ounce

100 grams

3-!3| ounces

14 grams I114

4 ounces ounces (approx.)

226· 78 grams 226'78

8 ounces ounces 8

500 grams 500

pound 1-!I1 pound 1| ounces ounces (approx.)

kilogram I1 kilogram

2·21 pounds 2'21

APPROXlMATE EQUTVALENTS EQUIVALENTS FOR FOR BASIC BASIC FOODS FoonS APPROXTMATE American

British British

French

Almonds, blanched, bJanched, whole whole Almonds,

150 grams

5| 5t ounces ounces

powder Baking powder

4.3 4·3 grams

1I teaspoon (approx.) 1I ounce ounce

30 grams

I1 cup I1 teaspoon (approx.)

2] 21 tablespoons

I1 cup I1 cup

90 grams 45 grams

3L 3! ounces

15 grams 125 grams 500 grams

ounce {1 ounce

500 grams

100 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) 4 ounces (seant)

1I pound (generous) (generous) (scant) I1 cup (seant)

Coffee, medium ground

85 grams

3 ounces

I1 cup

(cornflour) Cornstarch (cornflour)

10 l0 grams

1I tablespoon tablespoon

Cream of tartar

3-4 grams

t$ ounce ounce ounce l$ ounce 1I pound

Breadcrumbs, dry Breadcrumbs, fresh fresh

,,

" Butter

Cheese Cheese

"),

(grated Parmesan) Parmesan)

r+ 1t ounc€s ounces

4 ounces I1 pound (generous) (generous)

1

Fish

500 grams

(generous) (generous) 1

Flour (unsifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted, ail all purpose)

",,

(sifted cake (sifted cake and and pastry flour)

Fruit (fresh)

",,

(dried)

Gelatine (leaf sheets)

",,

(granulated) (granulated)

35 grams 70 grams grams 142 142 grams 500 grams

1I -ft ft ounces 2$ 2~ ounces 4f ounces 4! 1I pound

60 grams 128 grams 128

(generous) (generous) 1I ounce (generous) (generous) 2$ 2! ounces 4| ounces 41

30 grams 60 grams 120 120 grams

1I ounce 2 ounces 4 ounces

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous) 1 pound (generous) (generous)

32 grams

500 grams 6 medium size leaves 150 grams 150

I1 tablespoon tablespoon *1- cup 2 cups

1I teaspoon

1I pound (generous) (generous)

t* cup *t cup 1I cup

3| cups 3t

t

cup

t* cup

1I cup

*t cup 1-* cup 1I cup 1I pound (generous) (generous) 2 cups

1I ounce

2 tablespoons

5$ ounces 51

1I cup 11 pound (generous) (generous) 1I cup 2 tablespoons

Meats

500 grams

(diced) ",, Mustard (dry)

grams 226 226 grams

1 pound (generous) (generous) 88 ounces

15 grams 15

tI ounce

--

French French

British British

American American

ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous) ounce 1I ounce (generous) (generous)

4|tablespoons tablespoons 4t

grams 12 grams 12 grams 200 grams 200 grams l0 grams 10 grams 160 grams 160 grams 500 grams 500

lounce $ ounce 6$ ounces ounces 61 ounce l$ ounce 5$ ounces ounces 51 pound 1I pound

tablespoon 1 tablespoon 1 cup cup 1 tablespoon tablespoon 1 cup cup 3 cups cups

Rice Rice

grams 240 grams 240

***t 88 ounces

1 cup cup

Salt Salt

grams 15 grams 15

ounce tI ounce

1I tablespoon tablespoon

(ground) Spices (ground) Spices

grams 2| grams 2t grams 15 grams 15

ounce -Px $ ounce ounce tI ounce

1I teaspoon teaspoon 22 tablespoons tablespoons

(fine granulated) granulated) Sugar (fine Sugar

ounce l$ ounce

(powdered)

grams 55 grams grams 15 grams 15 grams 60 grams 60 grams 240 grams 240 grams 34 grams 34

1I teaspoon teaspoon 1I tablespoon tablespoon !* cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

(confectioner's or icing)

grams 68 grams 68 140 grams 140 grams 35 grams 35

Pepper (whole (whole white) white) Pepper

,, ,, " "

(whole black) (who le black)

grams 30 grams 30

(powdered) (powdered)

grams 30 grams 30

(seeded) Raisins (seeded) Raisins

,,

"

,,

"

,, " ,, "

(seedless) (seedless)

(brown)

Vegetables (fresh)

"

grams 30 grams 30

tablespoons 44tablespoons

ounce tI ounce 22 ounces ounces 88 ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2, 2f ounces ounces 4~ 4$ ounces ounces 1I ounce ounce (generous) (generous) 2; 2f ounces ounces 14; 4f ounces i$ ounce ounce 2i 2$ ounces 5t 5$ ounces

tl cup cup 1I cup cup 1I tablespoon tablespoon t* cup cup 1I cup cup

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

1I pound pound (generous) (generous)

500 grams

1I pound (generous) (generous)

22 cups cups

70 grams 140 grams 10 l0 grams 80 grams 160 grams

(dried: Ientils lentils or split peas) peas)

3ftablespoons tablespoons 3i

tt cup cup 1I cup cup !* cup cup

H ABAISSE - A tenu pastry-making to describe ABAISSE-A term used in French French pastry-making (or sheet) sheet) of pastry. It is also used to aa piece piece (or of rolled-out pastry. It is also used describe aalayer layer of sponge cake or biscuit. ofsponge

may be or, better still, aa handful be substituted for the sage or, handful of an orange. orange. Bay leaves are rosemary boiled boiled with the skin with the skin of an (le Minagier good.' (le fourteenth century) Ménagier de Paris, fourteenth also good.'

c,{trrsrre -- Fourth Fourth stomach of the the rumiABOMASUM. CAILLETTE (solid rennet) its extract, nants. Dried Dried caillette rennet) or or its extract, liquid nants. caillette (solid in the the cheese-making cheese-making used in rennet (obtained by by infusion) is used coagulating milk. industry for coagulating Arddche and and La is also also the the name name given in Caillette in the the Ardèche Caillette is Dr6me to aa large large sausage stuffed with aa mixture of minced Drôme pig's liver leaves. Iiver and chard Ieaves. ABONDANCE ABONDANCE -- Wine diluted with water. the drink drink which which in in days This ironically describes This word word ironically describes the gone go ne by used used to be served in schools or colleges, where wine deprecattenu is used, deprecatwas scarce and and water abundant. The term ingly, of watered-down wine. An abaisse of pastry

(Hunger-killer) -- A A substantial substantial dish dish served ABAT-FAIM (Hunger-killer) early in the meal.

ABATTE (Beater) -- A A popular corruption corruption of the ABATTE the French (to beat). word battre battre (to An abatte is is aa rather rather thick, word beat). An thick, broad, double-edged knife used flattening meal. meat. double-edged used for f1attening grown in plant grown ABEL-MUSK. AMBRETTE ,c,Mnnnrrr -- An ABEL-MUSK. An aromatic aromatic plant very strong, must have aa very mustyy Martinique, the the seeds of which which have smell. In India these seeds are mixed with coffee to give it a smel!. these seeds heighten its stimulating properties. and to heighten special aroma, and ambergris-scented variety Ambrette is also the name of an ambergris-scented of pear. TABLE. ABLUTIONS ABLUTIoNs DE DE TABLE rABLE -- The custom ABLUTIONS, TABLE. rinse their of passing bowls of water to to guests at at table, to to rinse meal, or after eating fingers at the end of eating certain dishes dishes with of a rneal, back to earliest earliest antiquity. It was a common the fingers, goes back practice with practice with the the ancient ancient Egyptians, Egyptians, the the Greeks Greeks and and the Romans, who hands before the meal Romans, who not only washed their hands but also between the courses. common to ail all ancient people, is explained 'This practice, cornmon by the fact that in those days food was taken taken with the fingers. (usually scented poured the servant poured A servant the contents of aa vesse! vessel (usually A water) over the fingers fingers of the guest. In other circumstances, circumstances, (Vie privie simply hands were sim ply washed in a basin.' (Vie privée des anciens, by Louis Nicolas Menard) Menard) pouR UNE UNE EAU Recipe for for finger-bowl finger-bowl water. water. RECETTE FscETrE POUR Recipe D'ABLUTToN -- 'Boil 'Boil aa handful handful of sage in water. Pour off the D'ABLUTION marjoram resulting liquid and cool until tepid. Camomile or marjoram

Herb-flavoured wine. The The ancients ancients used ABROTONITE -- Herb-f1avoured ABROTONITE mugwort called abrotanum abrotanum in this wine of mugwort to macerate a sort of flavour. to enhance its f1avour.

ABSINTH. ABSINTHE ABSTNTHE -- Liqueur made made by by macerating and ABSINTH. (Artemisia absinthium) distilling thc thc leaves leaves of wormwood wormwood (Artemisia distilling plants (fennel, Chinese then adding adding other aromatic aromatic plants Chinese anise, then hyssop, etc.). Absinth (colloquially known as la verte) was the apéritif ap6ritif in Absinth the 1914 war. vogue before the vn D'ABSINTHE Absinth wine. VIN D'ABsINTHE -- Wine spiced by infusion infusion of of Absinth wormwood leaves. leaves. wormwood

Wormwood Wormwood a. Branch a. b. Inflorescence b. c. Flower Flower c.

v

ABSORPTION ABSORPTION ABSORPTION (Whinsical (Whimsical gastronomy) gastronomy)This was was the meal - This offered in l'École in bygone times times to to the the senior senior students of I'Ecole polytechniqrc arrivais. 'Enough 'Enough is bbsorbed absorbed there polytechnique by the new arrivals. to justify justify the name of of the ceremony.' ceremony.' (Lor6dan (Lorédan Larchey) Larchey)

ACETO-IX)LCE ACETO-DOLCE ('Sour*weet') ('Sour-sweet') -- An An Italian commercial product of a mixture of vegetables and fruit, first product consisting of pickled Muscat pickled in in vinegar, vinegar, then then preserved preserved in in a a syrup syrup of Muscat grape must, must, honey and mustard. It is is usually served as as an hors-d' œuvre. hors-d'euvre.

ABSTINENCE ABSTINENCE -- Days Days of of abstinence abstinence are those on which one should should abstain abstain from from eating eating meat, meat, although although one one is is not obliged to fast. Meat abstinence abstinence does not prevent one from fast. Meat Iiving nonnal life. In fact, fact, the total exclusion of living a perfectly perfectly normal certain foods and condiments condiments is indispensable in a number number of of dietary dietary regimes. A few days' fasting is also prescribed for those who have over-indulged over-indulged at table.

ACETOMEL. ACETOMEL. AcfroMELACÉTOMEL - Sour-sweet of honey Sour-sweet syrup made of and vinegar used in the preservation of of fruit. Quinces, Quinces, pears and grapes thus preserved of aceto-dolce, aceto-dolce, i.e. preserved take the name of sour-sweet sour-sweet fruit. inflammable liquid liquid -- A colourless, inflammable with an acrid burning burning taste and a quince-like quince-like smell. Acetone appears in the body when the process cif of decomposition decomposition of fatty matter is is deficient deficient and and particularly particularly when when the the diet diet is lacking in carbohydrates (sugar). This frequently frequently arises in severe of diabetes and starvation. starvation. severe cases ofdiabetes

ACETONE. ACETONE. AcfroNE ACÉTONE

ABUTILON -- There are more than sixty sixt y varieties of this plant the world. world. An An edible edible species species plant scattered scattered throughout the grows in Brazil. known Abuti/on esculentum esculentum grows Brazil. The The Brazilians Brazilians known as as Abutilon benças de deos and cook cook its flowers with meat. meat. call it bengas In ln Europe, abutilon abutilon is cultivated cul tiva ted as a garden garden plant for the beauty its flowers, ofits flowers, but only only rarely rarely for use as food. In some sorne beauty of countries, particularly particularly in Asia and and in the the West West Indies, its leaves manner of sorrel sorrel or leaves are are cooked cooked and and eaten in the the manner spinach. In India the the natives are very fond fond of the the species species known as Abutilon Abutilon indicam. indicum.

ACHARD - This word, derived from from the the Persian Persian ACHAR. AcHARD ACHAR. word atchar, atchar, describes describes a a strongly spiced spiced pickle pickle (usually (usually word saffron-coloured) saffron-coloured) made from from fruit, fruit, or vegetables, vegetables, or or very young, tender buds of of palm cabbage (palmetto) (palmetto) or bamboo bamboo sprouts. It is highly regarded throughout the Indian ArchiArchipelago, pelago, in Mauritius, and R6union Réunion Island. Island. Lemm ACHARDS DE DE crrRoNs CITR9NS Lemon achar (Creole cookery). cookery). AcHARDS Choose thin-skinned thin-skinned lemons lem ons and quarter quarter them. Extrait Extract the C6oose juice, juice, discard the pips, and macerate macerate the lemons in layers layers of kitchen kitchen salt. Remove the lemons from the salt and soak them in cold water several times. times. Boil in water for 24 hours, changing the water fresh fresh water water until the the lemons lemons become become soft. soft. Strain Strain offthe off the water. marinate in the following Dry the lemons and put them to marinate sauce: Pound a a large large onion, onion, a a pimento, pimento, and and a a large large piece of Pound grnger ginger to a fine fine paste paste in a mortar. mortar. (Ginger, (Ginger, as well weil as allspice, aUspice, Bourbon Bourbon saffron and Indian curry powder powder can be bought bought in of Bourbon Bourbon delicatessen shops.) shops.) Add vinegar vinegar and a teaspoon teaspoon of delicatessen best quality olive oil to ensure ensure saffron. Blend with sufficient best completely that the lemons, when packed into jars, will be completely covered. covered. ACHARDS DE DE pALMrsrEs PALMISTES Palmetto achar achar (Creole (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Palnetto Palmettos Palmettos (palm cabbage) cabbage) can can be be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen shops. Remove carefully from the can, can, discard discard the the oil in shops. olive which they were packed, and dress with good quality olive oil. ACHARDS os DE rfcuMts LÉGUMES Vegetable achar achar (Creole cookery). AcHARDS Vegetable seeds and and pulp pulp from from I1 or 2 cucumbers, and Remove the seeds Cut cucumbers, cucumbers, pimentos, the insides insides from from 22 large large pimentos. Cut the about several carrots carrots and French beans into into thin strips about and several (11 inches) long. Mix with florets of of cauliflower and 4 cm. (l| roughly chopped cabbage cabbage leaves. leaves. roughly hours. Drain Drain thoroughly, Macerate these these vegetables vegetables for 36 hours. Macerate Lemon dry, and season season with sauce sauce described described in the recipe recipe for Lemon dry, achar above. preserve the achar, spoon into glass preserving preserving jars, jars, To preserve coyer completely completely with good good quality olive oil, and and seal the cover jars jars hermetically. hermetically.

ACACIA-Acacia ACACIA - Acacia blossoms blossoms are are used used for making making fritters and a home-made liqueur. liqueur. Acacia blocsom FRITTERS. blossom fritters -- See FRITTERS. Acacia Hqueuror liqueur or ratafia ratafia -- See LIQUEUR. LIQUEUR.

ACAI\THUS ACANTHUS @rank-ursine). (Brank-ursine). lcaNrHn ACANTHE - This This most decoradecorative plant plant is commonly commonly found in southern France where its elegant, denticulated denticulated leaves leaves are are eaten, eaten, when when young, young, as as a salad. It has emollient emollient qualities. qualities. ACARNE ACARNE -- Name Name given giveil to the European fish fish commonly commonly known known as sea bream. bream. ACAVUS. AcAvE ACAVE - A variety of snail common in French French vineyards and gardens. gardens. ACCOLADE, ACCOLADE, ININ - A A manner manner of of arranging arranging pieces pieces of of the same same nature nature -- meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fish -- back back to to back on one dish. This This method of presentation presentation was was much much in vogue vogue in in the olden olden days. method of

Chickens Chickens served served en accolade

ACELIIYE ACELINE -- French French name name for for a a European European fish fish a a little resembling good and and itit isis prepared prepared resembling the the perch. perch. Its Its flesh flesh isis quite good like like perch perch (q.v.). (q.v.). ACET ABULUM. lcfrl.rur.E ACÉTABULE - The ancient Romans used ACETABULUM. the word acetabulum to describe describe the the vessel vessel that held the word acetabulum

AClllLLEA (Milfoil). .lcrtnr6r ACHILLÉE - Plant, Plant, of which which one ACHILLEA

vinegar. vinegar. It lt was was also also used used as a measure measure in medicine. medicine.

Achillea ptarmica, ptarmica, which which grows in woods, is edible. edible. species, Achillea Its tender young young leaves leaves are added added to salads. salads. Its

ACETIC ACETIC ACID. ACID. lcfnqun ACÉTIQUE -- The acid which which forms forms the the basis basis of of vinegar. vinegar. It It is is used used in in cooking sugar sugar in confectionery. confectionery.

ACID.

ACETIFICATION. ACETIFICATION. AcfTIFrcArroN ACÉTIFICATION - The chemical chemical reaction reaction by a a yeast yeast (Mycoderma (Mycoderma aceti). aceti). Aided Aided by by various various caused by caused

lemon juice juice and verjuice. lemon

ACETIMETER.,c,cfnMirns ACETIMETER. ACÉTIMÈTRE -- Instrument Instrument for for assessing assessing the the of concentration concentration of of vinegar. vinegar. degree of degree

ACIDIFIERS (Bilible). (Edible). ACIDIFIANTSACIDIFIANTS - Foods Foods that that build build up an ACIDIFIERS of acid in the the system, system, leading leading to acidification of the excess of body fluids. fluids. body Acid-tasting fruits are not not necessarily necessarily acidifiers; nor nor do Acid-tasting

ACIDE -- A chemical hydrogen hydrogen compound recognisrecognisAcIDE of causing causing litmus solution to turn red. red. by its its property pro pert y of able by

used in cooking are vinegar, The acids most commonly used

industrial VINEGAR), it it transforms transforms wine wine industrial processes processes (see (see VINEGAR), alcohol other alcoholic alcoholic liquid) liquid) into into acetic acetic acid. acid. alcohol (or (or other

2

ACROAMA the acid taste; lemons, for the latter latter necessarily necessarily possess possess an an acid taste; lemons, example, are not acidifiers. Meat pasta and bread bread Meat, game, sea fish, offal, cereals, flour, pasta are fish, eggs, eggs, butter, butter, are powerful acidifiers; acidifiers; ham, freshwater fish, fats, shoots, Brussels hop shoots, Brussels sprouts, fats, chocolate, chocolate, asparagus, asparagus, hop artichokes, onions, onions, chestnuts, chestnuts, peanuts, walnuts, walnuts, hazelnuts and almonds less seriously so.

types are GLAND - Fruit tree. Sorne ACORN. cLAND Fruit of the ttre oak oak tree. Some types and were were eaten by certain Asian peoples before they edible and :rcorns discovered discovered cereals. In sorne some countries, such as Spain, acorns roasted. Acorn flour (which unlike chicory chicory are eaten raw or roasted. for coffee. has is used as aa substitute substitute for used as has costive properties) properties) is roasted acorns of the For this purpose the roasted the ballota oak are most commonly commonly used. used.

-

AcTDTFIER ACIDIFIER - To add add acid acid (lemon juice, vinegar or verjuice) to a culinary preparation. preparation.

ACIDIFY.

A small small shellfish with a BARNACLE. slrlNn BALANE - A ACORN BARNACLE. ail seas, attached to conical irregular shell which is found in all rocks. rocks. It It is is also also commonly called called acorn acorn shell shell and and turban prepared like crab shell.Itsflesh shell. Its fiesh is quite delicate delicate and is prepared crab (q.v.).

ACIDITY. lcIorrf ACIDITÉ -- Acid taste. It exists naturally in certain vegetables and fruit and disappears disappears or diminishes as a result of a'blanching' a 'blanching' operation operation (see BLANCHING). BLANCHING). Nowadays, Nowadays, the the acidity acidity of a a liquid liquid is is measured measured in in pH units; these range from zero, for pure acid (such as as hydrochloric chloric acid), acid), to to 7, 7, which indicates indicates a a completely completely neutral neutral substance. The The scale scale continues above above 7 to indicate indicate degrees degrees of alkalinity alkalinity (opposite of acidity). acidity). The acidity of certain Tbe acidity scale shows shows the the degree of aeidity foods. foods. 14

Acorn barnacles barnacles stuck to a piece piece of of shell

Sodium

ACQUEITE -- An old, spirituous ACQUETTE very aromatic aromatic liquor, spirituous and very much prized in Italy and throughout the south of of France. Its appearance resembles that of Danziger Goldwasser (Danzig (Danzig appearance eau de de ure). vie). There There are are two two varieties: varieties: silver eau silver acquelle acquette (in d'oro). Italian aqua bianca), bianca), and gold acquelle Italian acquette (aqua doro). Silver acquette is made as follows: cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon Cloyes 25 s. g. (L (1 oz.) Cloves Nutmeg (1 oz.) Nutmeg 25 g. (l 20 litres (4| (4t gallons, 5t 85° alcohol 85" 20litres 5] gallons) Steep these various ingredients in the alcoholfor alcohol for 24 hours, Steep these then distil distil without without rectifying; rectifying; you you will will obtain 20 litres then obtain 20 (4| (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 51 gallons) gallons) liqueur. liqueur. Dissolve 25 25 kg. kg. (55 (55 lb.) (2t gallons, 3 gallons) water and add the sugar in IIII litres (2| of the distillation. distillation. Leave Leave to rest for syrup obtained as as aa result result of syrup crushed silver silver leaf leaf into each the time time required, required, filter filter and put a crushed the each bottle. bottle. go Id acquette take: To prepare gold cinnamon g. (8 oz.) 225 s. Ceylon cinnamon 15 s. g. (l (t oz.) Cl oveS Cloves g. G (3 oz.) Angelica roots Angelica 75 e. Crete Daucus of Crete 75 g. (3 oz:) Fresh lemon (peel of) 40 s. g. (r| (lJ oz.) a0 Fresh (4t gallons, 5| 5t gallons) 85° alcohol 20 litres (4| 85'alcohol 20litres Proceed as as for preparing silver acquette, with just one Proceed crushed gold leaf into each bottle. bottle. difference, that you put a crushed

t3 13 12 Sodium cyanide

1- Caffeine 11

Sodium carbonate

10

Phenol Ammonia

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0 -J«1-

\ \o \ {s~ l{l

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8. Bicarbonate ~~c:~~~:;te of soda ~

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ARTERIAl BlOOD 1.1...

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of soda

Soawater

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NEUTRALITY NEUTRALITY

c~1

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Hydrogen

peroxide

SWEAT Zinc chloride Zincchloride

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Lacticacid Lactic acid Orange iuice juice 0range Wine Grape iuice iuice Grapo Lomonjuice Lemon iuice

ACRIDOPHAGE -- One who feeds feeds on locusts. This food ACRIDOPHAGE but it is epicures of Europe, but may seem extraordinary to the epicures quite acceptable acceptable to African gastronomes. gastronomes. It appears appears that that the of locusts locusts resembles, ifif somewhat somewhat remotely, remotely, that of of raw tas te of taste shrimps.

GASTRfC JUIGE JUICE GASIBIC Acaticacid acid Acstic Pi cric scid acid Picric

Hydrochloric acid Hydrochloric

ACROAMA -- A A Greek Greek word, word, adopted adopted by by the the Romans, meaning 'that 'that to which which one one listens', listens', further further extended to meaning pays attention'. mean 'that to which one pays To better entertair entertah their guests, guests, the the patricians made a To habit of of summoning summoning musicians, poets, actors (who enacted, enacted, habit licentious scenes), scenes), men and women dancers, dancers, at times, very licentious jugglers, even gladiators gladiators and jugglers, acrobats, tumblers, tumblers, dwarfs dwarfs and even savage beasts beasts to perform perform while while the meal was in progress. progress. savage acroama meant not only these these To the Romans this word acroama types of entertainment, entertainment, but but also also the the performers performers various types themselves. themselves. acroama continued continued through the cenThe custom of the auoaftro but was renamed renamed entremets entremets ('between courses'). courses'). These turies but common with what what today today describes describes entremets had nothing nothing in common entremets

Acidity scale scale Acidity

ACIDLTLATE. ACIDULA TE. acnurnn ACIDULER - To render render a dish dish slightly acid, sour or piquant piquant by by the addition of of lemon, vinegar, etc. ACIDLJLATED. ACIDULATED. acnulE ACIDULÉ - Term Term which which is is only used used to describe describe mineral minerai waters waters charged charged with with carbonic carbonic acid. acid. ACON ACON -- An An implement implement used by by French mussel mussel farmers to gather gather the the mussels mussels from from the the mussel mussel beds beds in the the cove coye of Aiguillon, near near La Rochelle. Aiguillon, of this this tool tool dates dates back back to antiquity. It It isis mentioned mentioned The use use of The in Charlemagne's Capitularies. 3

ACTINIA ACTINIA course of of vegetables vegetables or or aa sweet sweet course course served served towards towards the the aa course end of meal Acroama, of aa meal. Acroama,and the'spectacular entremets'that and the 'spectacular entremets' that end succeeded it, it, were were enacted all through enacted ail through the the meal. meal. succeeded

juices, remove panjuices, Strain the the pan removeexcess fatand excessfat andreduce reduce totothe Strain the desired consistency. consistency. desired Place the the agami agami on on aaserving serving dish dishsurrounded surroundedby Place bythe the garnishes. Coat with the sauce. Coat with thesauce. garnishes.

(Ser anemone). ACTINIA (Sea anemone). ACTINIE lcnNm -- Although Although actiniae actiniae ACfINIA (stinging) animais, are urticating urticating (stinging) animals, they they are are used as food used as food inin are certain localities. localities. The The inhabitants inhabitants of of southern southern coasts coasts of of certain France relish relish aa species species of of actinia actinia which which they they cali call rastègne rasftgne and and France maintain that that their their taste taste resembles resembles that that of of crabs. crabs. maintain Actiniae have have to to be be thoroughly thoroughly beaten beaten before before cooking cooking to to Actiniae tenderise them. them. They They can can then then be be fried, fried, made made into into fritters, fritters, tenderise omelettes, etc. etc. omelettes,

(Iove feast) AGAPE(Love feast)-- This Thiswas wasthe AGAPE ofthe themeal the name nameof which mealwhich the early early Christians Christians held held together together ininchurch, the church, ininmemory memory of of the Last Last Supper. Supper. The The Council the Council of of Carthage abolished the Carthage abolished the agapes in in A.D. a.o.397 put an 397in n order agapes order totoput anend endto tothe thecalumnies calumniesof of which they theywere which were the theobject. object. The meals meals held held by The earlyChristians by the theearly Christians ininthe thecatacombs catacombs inin memory of memory of the the martyrs martyrs were were also also called calledagapes. agapes. This word word nowadays nowadays isisused This used to todefine define an an important importantfamily family meal. meal.

ADOC -- Name Name sometimes given to sometimes given to sour sour milk. milk. ADOC ADLTLTERATION. FALSIFICATION FALsrFrcArroN -- A A deliberate deliberate lowering lowering ADULTERATION. quality of of the the quaJity foodstuffs for purpose of foodstuffs for the the pur gain. of illicit illicit gain. of pose of

(Bengal isinglass) AGAR-AGAR productobtained isinglass) -- AA product AGAR-AGAR (Bengal obtained from from various various seaweeds, seaweeds, known known also also as as Japanese Japanese moss, moss,Ceylon Ceylon moss. MOSS. Agar-agar Agar-agar isis collected collected in in the the form form of crinkly, whitish, of thin, thin, crinkly, whitish, transparent transparent strips. strips. ItIt swells swells slightly slightly inin cold coldwater water and and conconsiderably siderably so so in in boiling boiling water, water, in in which which itit finally finally dissolves. dissolves. AA jelly can fairly fairly stiff stiff jelly can be be obtained obtained from from it,it, which which isis used usedinin bacteriology. bacteriology. Its Its neutral neutral taste taste makes makes itit suitable suitable for for use incooking usein cookingand and jellies. confectionery, confectionery, and and fot for making making jellies. ItIt isis by regurgitating seaweed by regurgitating seaweed of of this that the salanthis type type that the salangane (Chinese swalIow) gane (Chinese prized by swallow) builds builds its its nest, nest, so so much much prized by the me of'bird's the Chinese Chinese under under the the na name of 'bird's nest', nest', for for which whichfactoryfactorymade passed-off in made agar-agar agar-agar isis often often passed-off in the West. the West. Agar-agar toms Agar-agar always always contains contains the the carapaces carapaces of of dia diatoms (microscopic (microscopic unicellular unicellular algae) algae) easiJy easily identifiable identifiable under under the the microscope. microscope. This possible the This factor factor makes makes possible rapid detection the rapid detection of any fraudulent the product. fraudulent use product. ofany use of ofthe

/SGINETIA. JEGINETIE .EcrNErrE -- The The type genus of plant, type genus A:GINETIA. of this this plant, Eginetia indica, indica, isis indigenous indigenous to to the the East East Indies. Indies. The /Eginetia The natives natives of the coast coast of of Malabar Malabar cali call itit tsiem-cumulu tsiem-cumulu and of and blend with blend itit with nutmeg and and sugar (chewingsugar to to form form an an excellent excellent mascatory nutmeg mascatory (chewinggum) used used for for strengthening strengthening the gum) the teeth teeth and and combating combating bad bad breath. OF RHODES. RHODES. AEGIS mcn DE DE RHODES RHoDEs -- One AEGIS OF One of of the the seven seven great masters masters of of ancient ancient Greek (third century Greek cuisine cuisine (third great century B.C.). B.c.). in the the art art of of cooking cooking fish. He excelled in fish. Word used AFFINAGE -- Word used in in the the French French cheese cheese industry industry to to process of describe the the process of ripening ripening or describe or maturing maturing cheese cheese in in temperature'controlled tempera ture-controlJed cellars. cellars.

AFFRIANDER -- French French cuJinary AFFRIANDER culinary term term which which means means to to tempt; to pleasant appearance tempt; to attract attract by by the pleasant appearance of of aa dish. dish. AFTER-TASTE. ,mn$nr-co0r -- Taste AFfER-T ASTE. ARRIÈRE-GOÛT Taste that that returns returns to to the the mouth after ingestion of certain foods mouth foods and and beverages. beverages.

AGARIC AGARIC -- A A family family of of fungi fungi with with aa compact compact cap cap and and radiatradiating gills, that grows profusely profusely in places, ing gilIs, that grows in damp damp and and shaded shaded places, and and isis also also found found in in fields, fields, on on tree tree trunks, trunks, in in caves caves and and on on decayed decayed wood. wood. There There are are about about 2000 known species 2000 known speciesof of agarics quite aa large agarics and and quite large number number of are edible. of them them are edible. The The poisonous poisonous species genus called species are are chiefly found among chiefly found among the the genus called Amanita. Amanita. Among Among the the edible edible agarics agarics are are the the following: following: Edible grown inin the Edible agaric agaric or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, grown the quarries quarries around around Paris Paris -- the the c1assic classic type mushroom. This This type of of mushroom. is is often described under often described term champignon champignon without without any any under the the tenn other qualification. other qualification.

AGAMI (Trumpeter) -- A bird of of the wader wader family family of of which which

the the Guiana agami agami is is typicaJ. typical. Its Its flesh flesh has appreciable merit. has appreciable merit. The The agami agami is is used used in in cookery cookery mainly mainly in in South South America, America, boiled boild in consommé consomm6 or braised with rice. pleasant flavour Its flesh has has a pleasant flavour but is is rather dry, dry, although although less so so in the domesticated domesticated bird.

Agami Agami

àh la chilienne chilienne -- Choose Choose as Agami tr as tender an an agami agami as as posc1ean it. it. Prepare Prepare aa garnish of singe and clean sible. Pluck, draw, singe of rice cooked in fat stock with with pimentos. Bard Bard it put to it and and put to braising pan with with the the usual usual accompaniments accompaniments of braise in a braising of vegetables and and spices, spices, and some sorne dry dry white white wine. wine. vegetables medium-sized braise in in veal veal jelly jelly stock stock 12 Separately, braise 12 medium-sized onions stuffed stuffed with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweet pimentos onions sweet pimentos blended with with a a few few tablespoons of of reduced reduced velouté velouti (q.v.). Prepare also also 450 450 g. g. (l (lIb.) Okra in in tomato tomato sauce sauce (sec, (see OKRA). Prepare lb.) Okra OKRA). As soon soon as as the the agami agami is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove from the braising braising As from the Glaze itit in in the the oven. oyen. pan. Glaze pan.

A agaric which underside of the cap A type ofagaric which has type of has very very distinctive distinctive ridges ridges on on the the underside ofthe cap

4

AILLADE AILLADE Ingredients. Ingredients. 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sweet sweet almonds' almonds, I1litre litre

Royalagaric, agaric,agaric agaricodorain odorainor or St. St.George's George'sagaric agaricand andthe the Royal cultivatedagaric agaricare arealso also found found ininthe theParis Parisregion' region. cultivated Among the the poisonous poisonous species species are are Amanita Amanita phalloides phalloides Among (death cap) cap) and and Amanita Amanita vernn verna (glll) (gill)(see (seeMUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS) . (death Toprepare prepareedible edibleagarics, agarics, saute sautéininaa shallow shallowpan panininoil oil or or To butter ; dress dress with with herbs, herbs, Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), rià /ala butter; provençale, dà la la bordelarse bordelaise (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). They They can can provmgale, also be be used used as as aa garnish garnish for for aa large large number number of ofdishes. dishes. also

(I~ f,ints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) verjuice, verjuice, tt litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 1tfi Z*hipO 2* cups)waier waterand and 150 150g.g.(5(5oz., oz.,! cup)brown brown or orgranulated granulated I cup)

sugar. sugar. -Method

Method ofofpreparation' preparation. Blanch Blanch the the almonds almonds after after having having scalded scalded them them with with boiling boilingwater. water. Pound Pound them them ininaamortar mortaras as ofthe thewater' water. finely as aspossible, possible, moistening moisteningthem them with with aa little littleof finely When thiy theyform When fonn aapaste, paste,dilute dilutewith with the the rest restof ofthe the water waterand and verjuice putunder under aa press press verjuice and and strain strain through through aa napkin, napkin, then th en put

AGATHON -- Poet, Poet, born born in in Athens, Athens, and and not not in in Samos, Samos, as as AGATHON certain authors authors maintain. main tain. certain sumptuous repasts repasts gave gave rise rise to to aa great great deal deaJ of ofjesting jesting His sumptuous His on the the part part of of Aristophanes Aristophanes and and other other dramatists. dramatists. Some Sorne on Banquet was was composed composed at at his his table. table. people claim claim that that Plato's Plato's Banquet people

to It dl' dl. (t (! pint, pint, !f cup) cup) white white vinegar vinegar to lxtract extract all ail the the liquid. liquid . l+ combined with with I1litre litre (lf (là- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water water may may combined he substituted substituted for for the the verjuice verjuice and and water. water. be Sweeten the the liquid Iiquid with with the the brown brown sugar' sugar, or' or, ifif this this isis not not Sweeten available, available, granuhted granulated sugar, sugar, and and strain strain through through aa napkin napkin once once again, again, but but this this time time without without pressing. pressing. Stand in an an ice ice bucket, bucket, surrounded surrounded by by aa mixmixStand this this mixture mixture in ture of of crushed cru shed ice ice and and sea sea salt salt (coarse (coarse salt), salt), allowing allowing l0 10 per per ture of salt, salt, and and leave leave to to chill' chilI. Loosen Loosen the the parts parts which which get get cent of cent stuck stuck to to the the sides sides of of the the ice ice bucket bucket about about every every 15 J 5 minutes' minutes. When When the the whole whole mixture mixture acquires acquires aa granulated granulated texture, texture, serve serve it in sherbet sherbet glasses, glasses, adding adding half ha If aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of of kirsch kirsch to to each each glass. glass. AGUAXIMA of Brazilian Brazilian pepper pepper not not very very difdifAGUAXIMA - A A species species of ferent from ordinary ordinary PePPer. pepper. A fruit AGLJNCAIB.lcuNclriAGUNCATE. AGUNCATÉ-A fruit grown grown in in Peru,calledpalta Peru, calledpalta in Lima. Lima. ItIt isis shaped shaped like like aa calabash calabash (gourd), (gourd), is is green green in in colour colour and has has a varniJhed varnished appearance. appearance. Its Its skin skin comes cornes away away from from the flesh easily when the fruit fruit is ripe. ripe. This This flesh, flesh, somewhat somewhat in common common with insipid, is eatCn eaten with salt. It It has something in with (q'v.). of avocado the flesh of avocado Pear pear (g .v.).

of South South American American plants plants belonging beJonging to to AGA VE -- A A genus genus of AGAVE Agavaceae -- aa native native of of Mexico. Mexico. In In Cuba Cuba and and the family family Agavaceae the Mexico its its pulp pulp isis fermented fennented to to make make an an alcoholic alcoholic beverage beverage Mexico pulque. called pulque. called AGNOLOTTI. Agnoloffi Agnolotti ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise (Italian (ltalian cookery) cookery)AGNOLOTTI. Prepare aa noodle noodle paste paste in in the the following following manner: manner: put put 450 450 g. g. Prepare lb., 44 cups) cups) flour flour in in aa circle circle or or 'fountain' 'fountain' on on aa table. table. In In the the (l(I lb., middle of of this tbis circle circle put put 44 egg egg yolks, yolks, 20 20 g. g. (a (a generous generous tabletablemiddle of salt salt and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant spoon) butter, butter, aa pinch pinch of spoon) cup) water. water. *t cup) Knead for l0 10 minutes minutes but but avoid avoid giving giving too too much much body body to to Knead the paste. paste. Allow Allow to to rest rest for l0 10 minutes. the out the the paste paste with aa rolling-pin rolling-pin as as thinly thinly as possible. possible. Roll out Roll Place walnut-sized walnut-sized pieces pieces of of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Place Beefforcemeat) forcemeat) along it in a horizontal line, spacing them Beef 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) from from the the edge edge of the the paste paste and and 5 cm. cm. (2 (2 inches) 5 inches) from from each each other. other. inches) Fold the overIapping over this row of edge of the paste over Fold overlapping edge agnolotti. Press down heap of forcemeat, to each heap around each down around agnolotti. Press make the paste stick the agnolotti with a agnolotti with Cut out out the well. Cut stick weil. the paste make crescent-shaped, pastry-cutter, thus thus obtaining fluted-edged pastry-cutter, crescent-shaped, fluted-edged little little turnovers. turnovers. Poach l0 minutes, minutes, allowing for 10 water for in boiling boiling water them in Poach them 22 teaspoons quart) water. generous quart) (lfà- pints, pints, generous per litre litre (1 salt per teaspoons salt Drain, dish.. place in in aa dish Drain, and and place Make from the left over over from beef left the braised braised beef from the sauca from Make aa sauce forcemeat. with the cheese with grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese and grated Serve this and forcemeat. Serve agnolotti agnolotti..

medica) -(French name for Citr~ Citnrs medica) CDDRE (French AIGRE DE AIGRE DE CÈDRE Dame for Grasse around Grasse in Provence, Provence, around cultivated of a citron tree cultiva Fruit of ted in It Italy. It in Italy. Genoa in near Genoa and near Remo and at San San Remo Nice, also also at and Nice, and drink. summer drink. makes a very refreshing summer cut slice cut thin slice means aa thin An aiguillette aiguillette means AIGUILLETTE -- An game. poultry and winged game. and winged the breast of poultry on the lengthways on describe to describe be used used to only he should only speaking, the word should Slrictly speaking, Strictly thin to thin referring to when used wh often used fowl, but itit isis often slices of fowl, thin slices en referring tbin into aiguillettes' aiguillettes'.. 'cut aa fillet beef into of beef fillet of e.g., 'cut meat, e.g., slices of of meat, slices (see BEEF). BEEF). rump (see top rump the top describe the used to to descrihe is a/so also used Aiguillette is Aiguillette

AGONE Italy itit isis In Italy (Smarh graerlis). graerlis). AGON AcoN -- ln D'ISTRIA (Smaris AGOIYE D'ISTRIA known the has much much the indeed itit has and indeed of sardina sardina and name of the name known under under the same All the the sardine. Ali the sardine. size to to the in size similar in and isis similar flavour and same flavour recipes Like (q.v.) can to it. it. Like applied to be applied can he given for sardines (q.v.) for sardines recipes given sardines, salted.. be salted can be sardines, agone agone can AGORANOME Greece. in ancient ancient Greece. of markets markets in Inspector of AGORANOME -- Inspector He for responsible for produce and was responsible and was price of of produce the price He controlled controlled the the The markets. The to its its markets. laws relating relating to the laws of the the implementation implementation of agoranome the of the aedile of to the the aedile Greeks corresponds corresponds to of the the Greeks agoraiome of Romans. Romans. AGOU small-grain resembles small-grain sd8'o resembles negroes' sago or negroes' AGOU -- Agou Agou or millet. yellow with aa yellow colour with brownish-grey colour grain isisof of brownish-grey Thisgrain millet. This spot made rice. Flour Flour made likerice. cooked like stem.ItIt isiscooked thestem. it joins the spot where where itjoins from porridge. cakesand andporridge. makecakes to make used to from itit isis used AGOUTI (where Brazil(where found ininBrazil hare found sizeof the size ofaahare Rodent the AGOUTI -- Rodent ilit isiscalled and Republic, and Dominican Republic, theDominican Guiana, the calledcotia), cotia), Guiana, generally liveinin canlive The agouti agouti can Indies.The WestIndies. theWest generallythroughout throughoutthe Europe cold. protected from from the thecold. Europeififititisisprotected The rather theflavour flavourisisrather goodtotoeat, though the eat,even eventhough fleshisisgood The flesh strong. (seePORK, pig(see Piglet). PORK, Piglet). preparedlike likesucking suckingpig strong. ItItisisprepared

Agouti Agouti

which France,which ofFrance, southof thesouth usedininthe Definition used AILLADE - - Definition AILLADE (Languedoc or Provence) orProvence) district (Languedoc thedistrict according totothe applies,according applies, garlic allgarlic areaH butare somewhat but differsomewhat preparationswhich which differ totopreparations based. based. (q-v.)' garlicvinaigrette vinaigrette (q.v.), sortofofgarlic santce,aasort ailladesauce, Firstly,ail/ade Firstly, garnishes' othergarnishes. andother chivesand shallots, chives includingshallots, sometimesincluding sometimes

AGRAS more bemore beverage;totobe icedbeverage; anAigerian Algerianiced Agrasisisan AGRAS- - Agras precise, and almondsand arealmonds ingredientsare graniti.Its Itsmain main ingredients precise,aagranité. verjuice. verjuice.

5

AIOLI AÏOLI Aillade sauce sauceisisserved served with withco cold meatand potatoes andfish, fish, with withpotatoes Aillade Id meat generally, with and, generally, with ail alldishes dishes served servedàdlalavinaigrelle. vinaigrette. and, Secondly, bread bread àd l'aillade, I'aillade,aa slice slice of of toasted toasted bread, bread, Secondly, thoroughly rubbed rubbed with garlic and with garlic andsprinkled sprinkled with with olive olive oil. oil. thoroughly provengal aillade This provençal aillade isisthe the equivalent equivalent of the Languedocian of the Languedocian This (garlic-rubbed chapon (garlic-rubbed bread). bread). chapon Certain authors authors also also mention mention other other regional regional preparations preparations Certain known under under the the name name of of aillade. aillade. Among Among these theseare: ari: known Aillade albigeoise albigeoise which which isis nothing nothing more more than than an an aïoli atoli Aillade (q.v.). Aillade d la la toulousaine toulousaine which which isisalso also an anaïoli atoliwithblanched with blanched pounded walnuts and pounded walnuts added. added. and these preparations preparations are are very very appetising but but something something Ali these of-All an acquired acquired taste, taste, garlic being being their outstanding outstanding characcharacof an teristic. Tbey They are are excellent for for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. teristic. AIOLIoT IILLOLI -- Peel Peel4 pound and pound AÏOLI or AILLOU 4 large cloves of garlic, and to aa fine paste in fine paste in aa mortar mortar with I egg yolk. Season Season with with aa to pinch of of salt, salt, and and continue continue to pound, adding 21to pound, (scant 2| dl. dl. (scant generous cup) cup) olive olive oil oil little little by by little, little, as ] pint, generous as for ior mayonmayonnaise. Stir Stir this this mixture mixture vigorously. vigorously. When When finished, finished, itit should should have the the appearance appearance of of aa thick thick smooth smooth m'lyolnn.ais;e. mayonnaise. have Aioli isis served served mainly mainly with with boiled boiled fish, fish, hot or or cold, cold, but but Afoli can also also be be served served with with cold cold meal, meat, or or used used as as aa seasoning seasoning for for can salads and and cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. salads Garnishod aïoli. aio[. AÏOLI .liou GARNI cARNr -- This This dish, dish, very popular in Garnish.ed Provence, is is composed of of aa variety of of inl~re:dilmt.s, ingredients, such as Provence, boiled cod, cod, snails cooked cooked in in salt water, water, fennel, onions onions boiled stuck withcloves, with cloves, boiled boiled carrots, carrots, french french beans, beans, artichokes artichokes stuck cooked in in salt salt water, water, unskinned potatoes, bard-boiled unskinned potatoes, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, cooked etc. Small Small octopi, boiJed boiled in in salted salted water with herbs, herbs, are are somesomeetc. times added. All these are arranged on aa large dish and and served served with aïoli. aioli. with The preparation of of this this dish, says J. B. Reboul, one J. B. one of the the The maitres provengale, demands aa great cuisine provençale, great deal deal of of maitres de la cuisine artistic arrangement. arrangement. Not Not ail all the ingredients whicb which we we have artistic enumerated, however, are absolutely essential. There is is no no enumerated, however, are set rule point. One on this this point. One should proceed proceed according to to one's set rule on tastes and the tas tes and the means means at one's disposal. Aidi la grecqrre -- A kind of vinaigrette sauce sauce which which is Aïoli ili la A kind prepared combine pounded walnuts, prepared as as follows: combine walnuts, almonds and and soaked in in and hazelnuts hazelnuts with fresh fresh breadcrumbs sieved and milk, pounded garlic. garlic. Blend BJend with oil, vinegar and lemon milk, and and pounded juice. juice. Serve Serve with with fried fried and boiled boiled fish.

Albatross Albatross

ALBUIERA @') - Definition applying to various kinds of ALBUFÉRA dishes chiefly chieflyCh,naictenStxj characterised by the sauce which goes with dishes them. them. Theterm term d'AlbuJéra d'Albufdra was probably first was probably first used usedeither either by by _The Car6me or or by by his his successor successor Plumerey, Plumerey,so Carême sothe the recipefor for Duckling àdlalad'AlbuJéra d'Albufirais almost certainly Duckling is almost certainly the authenticone. one. differs slightly slightly from from the themodem modern version. ItIt differs version. Marshal Suchet Suchet was was made made Duke Duke of Marshal ofAlbuféra Albuf6rainin1812 l812 after after the victories victories of of Oropéza, Orop6za, M Murviedro urviedro and the and Valencia Valenciainin Spain. The lake lake of of Albuféra (See DUCK. Albuf6ra isis near near Valencia. The Valencia. (See cHrcKEN.) CHICKEN.)

ALBUMEN -- AA constituent constituent of ALBUMEN of seeds seeds containing containing food food reserves for plant in for the the plant reserves in germination. Albumen Albumen isissometimes sometimes farinaceous, as as in in cerealssuch such as asmaize, farinaceous, maize, barley, barley, corn corn and and rye; sometimes sometimes oily oily or or fleshy fleshy as rye; as in in coconut palm and coconut palm and in in black black poppy. In In certain palms itit acquires certain palms poppy. acquires the the hardness hardness of of ivory. ivory. The albumen albumen contained contained in The in coconuts coconuts isis in in the the fonn form of of an an layer surrounding outer layer surrounding the outer the inner inner cavity that that contains contains the the liquid commonly commonly known known as liquid ut milk. as cocon coconut

grain or Section of Section a grain corn showing ofa ofcorn showing albumen the albumen the

Many types of grain are are used for for their their albumen albumen in in domestic domestic economy, in medicine and economy, and in in the the arts. cereals provide provide arts. Thus Thus cereals us with with flour; us flour; the the coffee coffee shrub shrub wüh with an an alkaloid known known as as caffeine; the the black poppy with black poppy poppyseed oil, with poppyseed oil, used used almost almost unlve:rSélllv universally as as aa food. food. The The seeds seeds of certain species of of waterwaterlilies, very pleasant to the palate, lilies, palate, are much much used in Cbina and China and Vietnam as as food. The kernels of a species grows species of pine that grows in in Provence Provence and and Italy contain contain an an oily, oily, delicately flavoured albumen, which makes them much valued valued in in confectionery, confectionery, particularly in the manufacture manufacture of sugared pine nuts. nuts. Several Several species species of of palm tree provide provide both edible oil and and oil for lighting. Linseed Linseed oil oil cornes ing. comes from the seeds seeds of flax. species of A species of dwarf dwarf palm, found produces aa large found in Peru, produces cabezo de fruit which the natives call call cana or cabezo de negro. negro, When is green, the tbe albumen'of albumen· of its its seeds the fruit is the seeds is is aa pleasanttasting liquid which, when fermented, yields aa wine that that is is mu ch appreciated by the the Peruvians. The fruit, when wh en ripe, much The fruit, ripe, be put put to the the same same uses uses as ivory; becomes very hard and can be as ivory; in fact fact itil is is exported under under the the name name of of raw raw ivory or vegetable in or vegetable ivory. When When burned, burned, the the product product obtained obtained compares compares ivory. obtained from from eleelefavourably with ivory black, which is obtained phants' teeth teeth and and tusks. phants'

AISY left over from the AISY - Name Name given given to the (soured) (soured) whey !eft scalding scalding of of milk milk used used in in the production prod uction of Gruytre. This whey whey is is used used to to make cheeses cbeeses of an an inferior quality called serai.The serai. The aisy aisy is is stored stored in barrels and added to daily &s more whey whey becomes becomes available. ALARIA of seaweed of which five five species are ALARIA - A A genus genus of found in the the seas seas ofnorthern of northern Europe. Europe. found in One One variety, variety, known known as as badderlocks badderIocks in in Scotland Scotland and murlins murlins in in Ireland, Ireland, flourishes flourishes along along the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of the British British Isles. Isles. It It is is eaten eaten in Scotland, in lreland, Ireland, and in the Faroe Faroe Islands. Islands.. Only Only the the slightly sligbtly sweet central central cartilaginous cartilaginous vein is consumed. consumed. vein is

ALBACORE ALBACORE (Yellowfin (YeLlowfin tura) tuBa) -- A A large large species of tunny tunny (tuna) (tu na) fish. fish. This This isis also also the the Portuguese Portuguese word word for for the the swordswordfish fish (q.v.). (q.v.).

ALBARELLE of edible edible fungi fungi which which grows grows on on ALBARELLE -- A A genus of chestnut chestnut trees trees and and white poplars. poplars.

ALBUMIN. ALBUMIN.

ALBUMINE - Viscous whitish matter matter with with aa ALBUMTNE whitish - Viscous slightly salty salty taste. taste. An example is is white white of of egg, egg, which which conconslightly 59 per per cent cent of ofits i18 total total weight weight (see (see EGGS). EGGS). tains albumin albumin up up to to 59 tains A}bumin is is also also found in ln blood blood serum, serum, in in milk milk and and in in Albumin of dried dried vegetables. It It is is for for plants, particularly in in the the seeds seeds of plants, this reason reason that that the water water in in which which peas, peas, beans and and lentils lentils this

ALBATROSS. ALBATROSS. lrs.{rnm ALBATROS -- Sea Sea bird bird with with very tough tough flesh. flesh. That That ofthe of the young young bird bird isis eaten, eaten, nevertheless, nevertheless, and isis prepared prepared like like Wild Wild &tck duck (see (see DUCK). DUCK). ALBIGEOISE ALBIGEOISE-- Garnish Garnish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of ofmeat. meat. It It consists consists of ofstuffed stuffed tomatoes tomatoes and and potato potato croquettes. croquettes. 6

ALCAZAR ALCAZAR in and brown them them in onions and pimentos and Method. Slice Slice the onions Method. garlic. Sprinkle stir, with flour, flour, stir, Sprinkle with slightly crushed crushed garlic. butter. Add slightly (which has has been meat (which been and add add the the meat lightly, and to brown brown lightly, allow to Add the the egg egg and and and seasoning. seasoning. Add minced), breadcrumbs, and minced), water, of the stock stock or or boiling boiling water, well. Moisten with aa little of blend weil. quarter of an hour. hour. for aa quarter of an and leave leave to to sim simmer and mer for pastry into aa pastry still hot, hot, into mixture, while while still Put this this forecemeat forecemeat mixture, Put saucepan ring. Hold Hold the the bag bag over over aa saucepan forcing-bag fitted fitted with aa ring. small slices slices of of the the squeeze; cut cut off off small stock and and squeeze; of boiling boiling stock of quenelles the bag. bag. Sim Simmer these quenelles of the sausage as it it cornes comes out out of mer these sausage,as pan. lid off leaving the the lid off the the pan. in the boiling stock stock leaving in in butter, butter, and and add add them them soften them them in Chop the the tomatoes, tomatoes, soften Chop just before served. is served. to the the soup soup just before itit is to

Albumin is are cooled. Albumin are cooked cooked becomes becomes viscous viscous when when cooJed. soluble in water in its raw state but coagulates coagulates at aa temperaand then becomes insoluble. ture of 78-80°e. 78-80'C. (172-176"F.) (l72-l76°F.) and Albumin in the form of of aa thin yellowish transparent sediment can be obtained by evaporating the white of egg egg at at a the white (122"F.). temperature of about 50°e. 50'C. (l22°F.). Albumin is used in the confectionery confectionery industry as as aa substitute for white of egg in the manufacture manufacture of certain kinds of of liquorice, Montélimar Montelimar whisked pastes pastes such as marshmallow, whisked marshmallow, liquorice, nougat and various meringue products. as an It is also an egg egg substitute in in the the manufacture manufacture of of also used used as cheap biscuits and almond paste. Before use it has has to be disId water. cold solved in about seven times its weight of co Albumin in the form of beaten whites of egg is used in the clearing of of wine.

ALBUMINOIDS. ALBUMINOïDES -- Substances ALBUMINOIDS.,c,rnuMNoioEs Substances possessing properties akin albumin (coagulable by by heat), akin to to those those of albumin proteinic substances. also called nitrogenous, quaternary or proteinic They exist in animal or vegeveg€all living organisms, organisms, whether animal in ail table. Chemical analysis same four four basic basic elements: elements: analysis reveals the same carbon, hydrogen, oxygen in varyoxygen and and nitrogen nitrogen associated in ing quantities with other elements. Albuminoids constitute of ttre essential elements elements of constitute one one of the our the only only our diet. diet. Of all the the substances we we generally eat, eat, the Of aU ones lacking in albuminoids albuminoids are those which have undergone undergone an industrial purifying process su ch as sugar. such as oil oil and and sugar. ln In dietetics, dietetics, an an increased increased ration ration of of albuminoids albuminoids is is ococcasionally prescribed (in cases of malnutrition, etc.) but more casionally prescribed more frequently the is reduced albuminoids in the the diet diet is the amount of albuminoids prowhen, for for example, the kidneys fail fail to to eliminate eliminate waste procxample, the ducts transform them. ducts or the liver is unable to transform Without going to reproducing specialist specialist Without going to the the extent extent of of reproducing tables possible to divide albuminoid or or tables of of analyses, analyses, itit is is possible to divide nitrogenous food food into four categories: categories: Very po or in (less than green vegepoor in albumins albumins (less than 1I per cent): cent): green tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, tables, pulpy fruit, potatoes, rice, cream, cream, butter, butter, honey, sugar, oils. Poor (up (up to green cabspinach, artichokes, green cabto 66 per cent): cent): spinach, bages, Brussels uts, green peas, cocoa, green peas, cocoa, chestnuts, Biussels sprouts, bages, sprouts, chestn chocolate. Rich (6 to per cent): Rich (6 cereals, noodles, to 12 12 per cent): bread, bread, Bours, flours, cereals, eggs. eggs. Very (I2 to per cent): hazelVery rich rich (12 cent): walnuts, walnuts, almonds, almonds, hazelto 30 30 per nuts, peas, lentils, dried peas, lentils, various meats, nuts, various meats, fish, fish, dried dried beans, beans, dried beans, peas, cheeses. beans, chick peas, cheeses.

(Water cooler). ALCARRAZA The French French cooler). ALCARAZAS ALcARAZAS -- The ALCARRAZA (Water have the Spanish, Spanish, who who in in turn turn from the have borrowed borrowed this this word word from (pitcher). In borrowed itit from alkourraz (pitcher). In Egypt, Egypt, from the the Arabic Arabic alkourraz 'the alcarraza the has become the French French become the this has bardak; this called bardak; alcarraza isis called probably barclague balasse. Bardak Bardak isis aa Turkish Turkish word word probably bardague and and balasse. stemming bara, meaning meaning to to cool, cool, and and root bara, stemming from from the the Arabic Arabic root (meaning, like from like alcarraza, frorn which barradn (meaning, alcarraza, aa which isis derived derived barrada vessel vessel for liquids) and and the the Spanish word albarrada. albarrada. for cooling cooling liquids) Spanish word jugs of These porous, unglazed various shapes shapes are are filled filled These porous, unglazed jugs of various with shade in in aa draught. The water water with water water and and hung hung in in the the shade draught. The jug and oozes pores of The of the the jug and evaporates. evaporates. The through the the pores oozes through hotter air, the the hotter the the outside temperature and and the the drier drier the the air, outside temperature quicker quicker the heat necessary necessary for for evaporation evaporation the evaporation. evaporation. The The heat jug, which isis extracted frorn the liquid inside inside the the jug, which isis thus thus extracted from the liquid cooled. eooled.

ALBUNDIGAS - The (Mexican cookery) ALBUNDIGAS (M~xican cookery) The originof origin of albundigas appears to In Mexico Mexico itit to be be Spanish Spanish or or Mexican. In is is almost aa national national dish. Combine (l lb.) g. (l Ib.) finely finely choppedfillet Combine 450 450 g. chopped fillet of of beef beef and and 100 (a oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) fairly coarsely coarsely chopped chopped fat fat bacon. Season with with bacon. Season salt and pepper. Add aa little garlic and pepper.Add little crushed and aa teaspoon of of crushed garlic chopped parsley, and into thickish chopped parsley, and bind with an an egg. egg. Shape Shape into cakes. an ovenproof dish and and cakes. Fry in clarified butter. Put Put into ovenproof dish into an coyer for 20 20 minutes. sauce. Cook the oyen oven for minutes. in the cover with with tomato tomato sauce. Cook in Serve (see RICE). Rice àd la criole (see Serve with Rice la créole RICE). Albundigas Albundigas can frorn aa mixture mixture of of veal veal and and can also also be be made made from pork. The me : The Mexicans also also have have aa soup soup called called by this na name: by this Ingredients. (5f pints, pints, 6t pints) light light stock Ingredients. For For 33 litres litres (st stock or or 6| pints) water, take 225 g. (8 oz.) g. (8 pork, veal veal or mediumtake225 oz.) fiUet fillet of of pork, or beef, beef, 55 mediumsized peeled and garlic,44 green green pimentos, pimentos, 33 peeled and sized onions, onions, aa clove clove of of garlic, deseeded (2 oz., g. (2 tablespootts oz., tI cup) deseeded tomatoes, 50 g. cup) butter, butter, 22 tablespoons tomatoes, 50 (3 (3 tablespoons) amount of of sieved flour, the sieved the same tablespoons) wheat wheat ftour, same amount breadcrumbs, or, better better still, still, or thyme, thyme, or, breadcrumbs, I teaspoon teaspoon coriander coriander or marjoram, and 1I egg and more delicate delicate Bavour, flavour, 1I egg marjoram, which which has has aa more tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt.

paste ALCAZAR (Pâtisserie) - Line Lining paste with Lining Line aa sponge tin with sponge tin ALCAZAR(PSfisserie)(see (see DOUGH). with 22 tabletableand spread spread with Prick the the bottom bottom and DOUGH). Prick jam. Fil spoons (3 tablespoons) Fill1 three-quarters of apricot jam. three-quarters of spoons (3 tablespoons) apricot the following mixture: the tin tin with with the the following mixture: g oz., Ingredients. g. (4 icing sugar, sugar, 44 egg egg whites, 125 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) icing whites, Ingredients. 125 60 (2 oz., (2 oz., g. (2 gtound almonds, almonds, 60 60 g. oz., tI cup) cup) Bour, flour, cup) ground ffi g.e.Q oz., tI cup) 25 g. (l melted butter, kirsch. 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, kirsch. Q oz., Method whites preparation. Beat and the the egg egg wrutes Beat the the sugar sugar and Method of of preparation. en add over .over gentle ground gentle heat firm meringue, meringue, th then add ground heat to to obtain obtain aa firm almonds, half aa finally, melted melted butter butter mixed mixed with with half almonds, Bour flour and, and, finally, wine kirsch. Spread glass of and Boured floured baking baking wine glass ofkirsch. Spread on on aa buttered buttered and sheet. (350'F., Gas Bake in sheet. Bake in the the {)ven at 180°e. 180"C. (350°F., Mark 4) 4) for for Gas Mark 'oven at 50 minutes and and turn out onto onto aa wire wire tray. tray. 50 to to 60 6O minutes tum out Fit pipe, and piping-bag with and fill fill with with unFit aa cloth cloth piping-bag with aa ftuted fluted pipe, uncooked paste in proportion of in the 450 g.g. (l(l lb.) lb.) to to cooked almond almond paste the proportion of 450 450 (l lb.) (see (see ALMOND, paste 1). g. (lIb.) 450 g. 1). Pipe latticeALMOND, Almond Almond paste Pipe aa latticework pastry, then pipe aa border. in aa hot work over Place in hot oyen oven over the the pastry, then pipe border. Place to our the jam paste. Coyer with thick thick apricot to col colour almond paste. apricot jam the almond Cover with and a pistachio each lozenge. put half pistachio nut lozenge. in the and put halfa nut in the centre centre of ofeach As paste border As an an alternative an almond almond paste apricot alternative to to an border use use apricot jam jam sprinkled sprinkled with chopped roasted roasted almonds. almonds. with chopped

Alcarazza Alcarazza

t

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ALCOHOL ALCOHOL ALCOHOL. ALCOOL ALcooL - - Liquid Liquid obtained obtained by by distilling distilling ferferALCOHOL. mented liquors. liquors. mented In chemistry, chemistry, ail all organic substances composed organic substances composed of of carbon, carbon, ln hydrogen and and oxygen, oxygen, capable capable of of being being combined combined into into an an hydrogen acid to to form form an an ether, ether, are are defined defined as as alcohol. alcohol. We We shall shall deal deal acid only with with ethyl ethyl alcohol alcohol or or wine wine alcohol, alcohol, also alsocalled called wine wine only spirit. ItIt isis the principal product product of the principal of the the fermentation fermentation of of sweet sweet spirit. liquids formed formed by by the the double double decomposition decomposition of ofglucose under liquids glucose under yeast. This the action action of of yeast. This microscopic microscopic vegetable vegetable cell cell reproreprothe duces itself itself by glucose into by splitting splitting glucose into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and duces palatable and alcohol and and aa few few palatable and sweet-smelling sweet-smelling by-products. by-products. alcohol (See BEER, BEER, WINE.) WINE.) (See

mentco-ordination, co-ordination, congestion congestion of of the theface, face,overpowering overpowering ment drowsiness; Third Third degree: degree.'Loss Lossof of mobility, mobility, sensitiveness sensitiveness drowsiness; and will. will. and Acuteintoxication intoxication -- Early Earlysymptoms symptoms the 2.2. Aeute thesame same as asinin period of inebriety, but the period but the ofexcitation excitation isisvery veryshort, short, resulting inebriety, resulting quickly ininsomnolence, somnolence, which which can can develop developinto quickly into aacoma coma and and evendeath death through through cerebral pulmonarycongestion. cerebral or or pulmonary even congestion. Chronic alcobolism alcoholism -- Repeated Repeated abuse abuseof of alcoholic alcoholic 3.3. Chronie produces Jesions liquids produces lesions of (gastritis), of of the the stomach stomach (gastritis), liquids of the the liver (cirrhosis), of (nephritis), and of the the kidneys kidneys (nephritis), and of ofthe the nervous liver(cirrhosis), nervous (delirium, neuritis). system (delirium, neuritis). system

AIfi -- English English beer, lightly hopped beer, lightly hopped and and slightly stightly bitter. ALE bitter. ItIt isis used in in cooking cooking for for making making various various cheese cheese dishes, used dishes, notably notably (q.v.). for Welsh Welsh rarebit rarebit (q.v.). for Ale isis obtained obtained by by rapid rapid fermentation fermentation and Ale and acquires acquires strength on on maturing; maturing; fermented fermented small small beer, strength beer, on on the the other other hand, has has only only aa short life. Stout short life. porter are Stout and and porter hand, are brewed brewed from from grain; ale roasted grain; ale isis made grain in from grain made from in its its natural roasted natural state. state. used to to be be aa tradition tradition in in wealthy ItIt used wealthy English English families families to to celebrate the birth birth of of aa son son by by filling filling one celebra te the one or or more more barrels barrels of of ale, specially specially brewed brewed for for the the occasion. occasion. The ale, The barrels barrels were were hermetically sealed sealed and and not not opened opened until hermetically until the the son son and and heir heir reached his his majority. majority. On On this this memorable reached memorable day day -- called called the the 'coming of of age' age'friends, tenants tenants and and servants 'coming - friends, servants were invited were invited great repast, to aa great repast, which which concluded concluded with passing round to with the the passing round of of the splendid splendid twenty-one-year-old twenty-one-year-old ale. the ale. posset -- Heat Ale posset (lf pints, Heat 1I litre pints, generous litre (I~ generous quart) Ale quart) ale ale with with pinch ofpowdered little sugar, sugar, aq pinch of powdered gingerand ginger and grated grated nutmeg. aa little nutmeg. (l| pints, Boil 1I litre pints, generous litre (l~ generous quart) quart) unskimmed milk Boil milk and and mix it, it, while while still still boiling, boiling, with mix with the the ale. ale. Toast and and ale ale -- An An English Toast English beverage which which used used to to be be served in in win winter, after the the dinner, dinner, at served ter, after at the the same same time time as as the the cheese. Method. Bring (lf pints, generous quart) old Bring 1I litre (li Method. ale, to to old ale, which aa coffeespoon coffeespoon of ginger has which has been added, to been added, to the the boil. jug with Pour it, it, whilst whilst almost almost boiling, into aa jug boiling, into Pour with aa metal metal lid lid containing a thick slice slice of bread toasted on both sides. containing sides. Leave the ale to to stand stand for aa short time before serving.

Microscopic cells cells inducing inducing Microscopie alcoholic fermentation fermentation alcoholic

produced by Alcohol isis produced juices by fermenting fermenting natural natural sweet sweet juices Alcohol (grapes, apples, apples, sugar sugar cane, cane, beetroot, beetroot, etc.) etc.) or or amyloide amyloide (grapes, musts, which which have have been preliminary fermentasubjected been su to preliminary musts, bjected to tion which which transforms transforms the the starch glucose. Wort starch into into glucose. Wort of of tion (beer), potatoes, cereals (beer), potatoes, etc. etc. are are used. cereals The distillation distillation of these musts musts and produces spirits of these and worts produces The (q.v.); the the concentration concentration and and rectification rectification of of these these spirits (q.v.); produces industrial alcohols. alcohols. produces industrial per cent Absolute 100 per cent alcohol alcohol is product; it is is aa laboratory laboratory product; Absolute 100 a which boils 78.3'C. Because of of its its high a caustic caustic liquid, liquid, which boils at at 78·3°C. water absorption potentiality potentiality it it must must be be treated with with great water absorption caution. caution. (medicinal) 95' Officinal Officinal (medicinal) 95° alcohol alcohol is is aa colourless, mobile, non-residual and a pleasant odour odour and non-residual liquid, liquid, volatile, volatile, with with a a pleasant burning 79.9"C.It burning taste; taste; itit boils boils at at 79·9°C. It can be be mixed mixed with with water water in all ail proportions, proportions, with with contraction contraction (that (that is is to to say, say, the the total volume of the the mixture mixture is is lower lower than that of of the components) components) volume of and and with with emission emission of of heat. heat. 85' 85° alcohol alcohol is is commonly commonly called called 'three-six' 'three-six' (trois-six) (trois-six) because because three three parts parts of of this this alcohol, alcohol, mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity quantity of of pure pure water, water, produce produce six parts of of ordinary eaueaude-vie. de-vie. Alcohol Alcohol possesses possesses antiseptic antiseptic properties; properties; it it is a diffusible diffusible stimulant stimulant which which has has numerous numerous uses uses in in therapeutics. therapeutics. In ln its its chemical chemical composition composition alcohol alcohol approaches sugars sugars (l(1 molecule molecule of of glucose glucose is is split, split, by by fermentation, fermentation, into into 22 molecules molecules of of alcohol). alcohol). It It possesses possesses definite but but moderate moderate alimentary alimentary properties, properties, because because itit decomposes decomposes too too quickly quickly in the the organism, organism, and and the the energy energy released released can can only only be be used used to to aa small small degree, degree, mainly mainly because because itit becomes becomes aa toxic toxic substance substance when when taken taken in in large large doses doses (see (see ALCOHOLISM). ALCOHOLISM).

ALECTRYON -- A large tree A large ALECTRYON tree of of which which the the best-known found in New Zealand. species is found Zealand. Its red red berries, berries, much Its prized for much prized pleasant acid for their their pleasant acid flavour, are usd used in the manufacture manufacture of refreshing beverages. beverages. An excellent oil is extracted from its seeds (and exported).

ALEMBIC. ALEMBIC.

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ALAMBTc ALAMBIC

Apparatus used for Apparatus used for distilling. distilling. It

comprises comprises a cucurbit, or tinned copper boiler, with or withoutaa bain-marue, out bain-marie, surmounted by byaa cap with with a serpentine, serpentine, i.e., a tin, or tinned copper, spiral coil coilleading leading from it.

Old·fashioned alembic alembic Old-fashioned

ALCOHOLISM. ALCOHOLISM. arcoolrsME ALCOOLISME -- Intoxication Intoxication produced produced by by the of liquids liquids containing containing alcohol. alcohol. There There are are three three the abuse abuse of

distinct forms: distinct forms: l.1. Inebriety Inebriety -- Occurring Occurring when wh en alcohol alcohol reaches reaches aa certain certain degree, degree, variable variable with with individuals, individuals, manifesting manifesting itself itself in in the the following manner: First First degree.. degree: Sensation Sensation of of well-being, well-being, following manner: stimulation stimulation of of the the intellectual intellectual faculties facuIties and and the the imagination, imagination, slight slight swelling swelling of of the the face; face; Second Second degree: degree: Mental Mental inincoherence, diminution of of muscular muscular strength, strength, lack lack of of movemovecoherence, diminution 8

ALGERIA ALGERIA species-of chopped. This makes them easier to use' Various chopped.are This makes them easier to use. Various kombu' of manufacture the in base a as used iurniiuti" laminaria used asvegetable a base infor thesoup manufacture or mixed with rice as a used it thenare ;hi;h which is then used as a vegetable for or mixed wiili rice for example' seasoned with soy sauce. bther species, kanten seasoned with soy sauce. Olher for example, are used inpdtisserie and confectionery' interest are în pâtisserie and \"VJlU'-·"'''Vlll..' algae are not simply a culinary expedient' and Butused in the But algae areconfine-d not simply culinary expedient, andinterest countries; Eastern to aFar not in1t.*"i, food in themofis the not experts, confinedthey to Far Eastern acountries; the valuable in constitute opinioo opinion of the experts, they constitute a valuable food resource for the future. resouree future. that chlorella, microscopic freshwater way thisthe ir in for ft which, is in lhis wayfavourable that ch/orella, microscopie rreshwaler themreproduce conditions, undei aljae which, under favourable conditions, themsave our planet one day reproduce rapidity, may astonishing r.iu.t *ittt planet with astonisrung save our to write: E. and A. N".g.te have good reason itorn fu*ioe. proved from famine. E. and A.of liboratory animals reason write: :L;;;;;;laifeeding has to 'Experimental feedîng of and energy animaIs proved chlorellae. value of has thJ food any doubt GVirO lipic and the food and value of chlorellae. beyond any doubt are rich in proteinic, that chlorellae iii""pp"r.nt It is that chlorellae areacceleraled cultivation will and and that substances, vitaminised It is vlt:amml:sed substances., and that will supplement' important-nutritional an with man provide provide man with an important nutritional supplement. H is with that cultivation traditional of replacing ; qr;iion replacing Iraditional with that not a question in the exploitation in usefuleultivation maylome lattir but the of but theinlaarid tter may come in zones'' usefuJ in the exploitation or semi-arid of so-lar'energy globe energy in arid or semi-arid zones.' This meani that the underprivileged peoples of thc Trusreceive means their that the underprivileged of elements the globe and trace quota of vitamins peoples could receive their quota of vitamins and trace elements "o"n which at present they entirely lack' which at present they entirely Jack.

Theliquidtobedistilledisputdirectlyintotheboiler(in The liquid to be distilled is put directly into the boiler (in thqcase naked-flamealembic), alembic),ororonontop topofofthe,bain' the hainthe caseofofa ilnaked-flame The it.il.The marie mariethatforms that formspart partofof Thealembic alembicis isthen thenheated' heated. The pass into the a"tioo actionofof theheatieleases heat relcasesalcoholic alcoholicvapours' vapours.These These pass into and il;;.t,tn. the serpentine(*tti"tt (whichisÎscooled cooledby byflowing flowingwater)' water), and heat the condense.The Thetiaditional traditionalCharente Charentemethod methodwas wastota heat the "ond.rrr.. alembics overwood woodfires. fires.The Thefirst firs!liquid liquidobtained' obtained, alembicsdirectly over through le /ebrouillis brouil/is-rn.rik hadtotobeheredistilled redistilledbybypassing passingit it through - -hud the thealembic alembiconce oncemore. more. in the AAnumber numberofofimprovements improvementshave havcbeen beenincorporatedincorporated in the oh-fashionedalembictoenablealcoholtobeobtainedatthe old-fashioned alembic to enable alcohol to he oblained at the of the nrtt and to to ensure ensure continuous continuous feeding feeding of the first attempt, and "tt.-pt, apparatus. .apparatus. Traditionalists Tradîtionaiisisinsist, insist, however, however, that thatthese theseimprovements tt""" 'boiler taste' taste' and and yield inferior inferior have onfy only increased increased the the 'boiler

ii

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as distilInIn industry, industry, more morecomplicated complicated apparatus, apparatus, such such as distilling lingtowers towerswith with rectifiers, rectifiers,etc., etc., are areused' used.

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ALGAE.ALGuE_Plantswhichliveinwater.Thenutritive ALGAE. ALGUE - Plants which live in water. The nutritive m919 n"tu. value of of algae isis indubitable, indubitable, and and has has generally generally been been more the 1914 ;;G".ly proved proved than than that that of of fungi' fungi. During During the 1914

war, wu, these theS<.: ptants were were used used as as fodder fodder for for horses' horses. value of Recent Recent iesearch research has has confirmed confirmed the the dietetic dietetic value of it seems concerned' is human-beings feeding As far far as as feeding human heings is concerned, it scems atgae- As North use ih"at certain certain small small pririitive primitive tribes tribes in in the the extreme extreme North use scarce' algae nourishment when when food food is is scarce. algae as as emergency emergency nourishment. Scotland' in eaten are algae of varietiei or algae are eaten in Scotland. Several varietÎes S&"tat are used are are highly es-teemed esteemed in in the the Far Far East East and and are used as a Sasis for a large number numher of of widely widely marketed marketed foodstuffs' foodstuffs. that the (sea tangle) is from from ce.tain certain laminaria laminaria species species (sea tangle) that the It is are several there are kombus, for kombu, Japanese kombu, or or kombu.s, for there se veral called' so calle
ALGERIA.lrcfnn_Algeriaisanessentiallyagricultural

ALGER lA. ALGÉRŒ - Aigeria is anwhere essentially cultivation cerealagrîeultural iell region in the i.p.cially t*n,r', while country, especially in the Tell region where cereal eultivation plains'

oredominates. Pasture lands extind to the high are landsunsuitable ex tend to the plains, while agriculture forhîgh and land irr"-rnou"tuinsPasture mountains and land unsuitable for agriculture are considerable of therefore, a country, is It forest. with granaries' covered wi th forest. 1t îs a country, therefore, of considera ble "ont..O resources. In ancient times it was one of Rome's one of Rome's resources. In barley' oats' wheat, cereal: form ilofwas every times Atgeria hasancient Algeria has etc. \theat formis of cereal: valued wheat, for the manuoats, especially .iff"t, -uirE, a produces maize, millet, etc. is valued for the manuit since products, semolina pasta and of i;;tut; of does facture pasta andswelling semolina since it of cooking' the process in products, while p".tt *fti.tt, pastalose whieh, while swellîng in the process of its shaPe. not ---ine not loseatgerian its shape. vineyards, work ofthc French colonists, are The Aigerian vineyards, work the French are are gradually They colonists, Algiers' andof Oian around situated riainly around Oran and of Mascara' are gradua!ly situated mainly Mostaganem The wines Oi-ini.f,i"g in number. diminisbing in number. The wines time of the and M6d6a are among the best known' Since the V.D.Q.S. and Médéa are among the besthave known. of the classifiedtime beenSince they administratio-n ri.n"r, and have French administration they been c!assified content V.D.Q.S. high alcohol of have (q.v.). They are generally (q.v.). r.".pirflu"alities, are generallywtrictr of high alcoho\ and haveof the providence thelrcontent mate. good a."t"rs-who specialise which themEarly the dessert grapes of blending. in make iin. wîne specialise in blending. Barly are exported in June. are Plums, exported in June. and almonds are other equally early greengages almonds are other equally earlyas Plums, greengages fruits such Algerian the specifically theie areand Then fruits. dried fruits. Then there are the specifically such as two are The last fruits and figs' Algerian dates o.*nl.q tangerines, dates andquantities' figs. The last twoproportion are dried o.ranges, tangerines., A large considerable uiia &pottdin the manuand exported in and considerable A largeinproportion are used locally tangerinesquantities. irut g"t oiitt" of the oranges and tangerines are used locally in the manufacture of liqueurs. faclure of liqueurs. farming produces excellent quality potatoes' Vegetable producespeas' excellent Vegetable farmingtomatoes, carrots, melons' wa!e-rartichokes, beani tomatoes, peas, carrots, water-in beans, artichokes, olives are cultivated (eggplints)' and aubergines m' 900 in and aubergines (eggplants). Olives are cultivated melons up to regions higher aliw in and regions itt. tittot"t the littoral and in a fewRefineries higher regions - upon to the 900 spot m. situated altitude. re-eg in 3000regions iover (over 3000a feet) in altitude. Refineries situated fruity' on thegolde.n' easy-fl9wing, quality-oil, very good produce of the oiL easy-tlowing, fruit y, and crustaceans The acoasts furnish all ihe'fish The coas(s . fish and crustaceans of the those to similar very mer de as/rzdts well as Mediterranean, Mediterranean, as weil asfruits de mer very similar to those ofProvence' on the coast found found on the coast Provence. feed on the pasture lands of the livestock of of ft"rds iuig. ofare livestock on the landsasofcattle, the Large herds many sheep as pasture ten times about feed There interiolr. There arewhy about teo times asmany many more sheep recipes. as cattle,for interior. explains so are there *tti.ft are so Algerian more recipes foras which there such animals' ndigenous -utton than for beif.Indigenous a gastroanimais, such as camels and gazelles' appear on the menu more as in an appear on the menu more as a gastronomical curiosity than inyttring else, and are treated exceptional manner. anything else, and are treated in an exceptional manner. cooking is not so very different from that of Algerian cooking is not 50 very different from that of

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ALGERIA ALGERIA Tunisia and Morocco. All three come under the heading of Arab cuisine. Tunisia and Morocco. Ali three come under the heading of abound: absinth, verbena, basil, citron, gum ArabSpices cuisine. resin, mint, abound:pimentos, absinth, verbena, basil, gum *itf, resin,,r, Spicessesame, etc. Dishes arecitron, flavouiJ el-hanout, a blend mint, sesame, pimentos, etc. Dishes are flavoured with ras of-twenty-seven different spices inseparably linked of twenty-seven different spices inseparel-hanoul, a blend with the feast oi Atd-et-Kibir. cuisine of Aid-el-Kébir. ablyArab Iinked with the feastcookery'. or 6tent cursrNE ARABE _ This type of foodcuisine is simple CUlSINE - This Arab or 'tent and cookery'. healthyj the milk,ARABE oit, semotioa, .iJi ofd?r:1 food isvegetables, simple andhealthy; the milk, oil, semolina, pasta products, condiments and meats go wrucn dates, vegetables, pasta products, and produce meats lnto its composition are condiments all excellent and easilygo digestible which into its composition are ail excellent and produce dishes. The easily digestible method dishes. of slaughter.used by the Arabs, consisting of seygringthe The methodneck, of slaughter used by the th. Arabs, of the.windpipe jugutar;;;r;; two consisting without the "nd h-fting severing neck,thetheknife windpipe and the two ii cimprete,-is offuntil severance particularly without liftingtothe knife off until severance be recommended. n,ol1"t,,.,,I!1lrlv to eat be recommended. The Arabs only the flesh of animals; the blood is for_ bidden. Theeat the flesh animais; the the blood is forKoran lays downofwhich foods e*U, permitted Theto Koran down which foodsanimals, the Arabs are bidden. eat. "* includes aquatic il; _This poultry andto alleat. pennitted includes ail"iithe birds, except birds aquatic of prey_animais, day or nocturnal poultry and ail birds, except birds o""n, of prey,h".p,'"t..,-*iin-t-fr" - day or nocturnal animals, - all livestock cimels, - exception ail livestock animais, camels, of pig and wild boar. oxen, sheep, etc., with the exception of pig advises and wildhisboar. The lawgiver faithfur: 'Do not eat in a crouch.ingThe 'Do not eat in a crouchhisas faithful: or lawgiver huddled advises position, this position inclines on. to .ut too or ing huddled as thisin position inclinesasone to eat much, but sit at the table Juch a manner to appear always too much, but to get at the table in su ch a manner as to appear ready up., always ready to get up.' Arabs generally drink only once, after a meal, when a communal Arabs generally drink only once, after a meal, a vessel (guerba), containing spring watei when o, _if{ makes the round communal vessel (guerba), containing spring or milk, of those participatiig in thewater meal. The the person makes round of thoseshourd participating in the into meal. drinking not bieathe the bowr The drinking not breathe into the bowl liquid; heshould must remove it from ni, fip, U"for. ::i9iTi"g.,he co:nUllln:mg thebreathe liquid; again. be mustThen remove it from his before oegmrung to he may resume drinkine. A be~~mrurlg to breathe Then he cup of coffee and a pipe of tobacco coffee a meal of the "i*"y" """.i"J.'l'rr". true and Arab. of the true Arab. Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion Coffee, a Moslem beverage, is the inseparable companion 9f tglu:l (they constitute the two great pt"urur.r'oi it of tobacco constitute the two great pleasures the" rt- is (they very rich in tonic substanr"r uno trt.irior.ofu..y ,{rab)' rich inwhere toniethe substances and therefore very Arab). It is beneficial in very a country summer temperature varies beneficiaJ25'C. in a and 50"C. where the summer temperature varies between (77"F. and 122.F.). between The tea25°C. hour and is a ritual. There isand mint tea, absinth and sage teaThe teawith hourmarjoram, is a ri tuaI. basil and is mint tea, laced ambergri, 1un uro_"ti. tea lacedserved with with ambergris basil balls and ambergris lnruslon mounted in silver is the infusion served ambergris balls mounted ultimate refinement) ultimate refinement). Arabs drink no wine; the Koran forbids it. Arabs drink no wine; thecommentaries Koran forbids it. One of the authors of the to the Koran, Sidi One of the authors the commentaries the Koran, Sidi Dylaleddine, thinks, ofhowever, that thetoprophet *rrt Dylaleddine, thinks, however, that the Prophet simply wanted to forbid excessive wine drinking, and that *in, i, wanted toprovided forbid excessive drinking, permitted one doeswine not get arunk. and that wine is pennitted doessaid: not .Eatdrunk. Another, provided oneone better, and drink, but with-going going better, and drink, but without Another, excess, for Godone loves not him who commits excess., .When out excess, for God loves not him who commits excess.' Arrb gastronomical customs _ the food is-s"rueO,, Arab gastronomieal customs 'When the food is served,' EJ SV.aut6,.'help yourself from around tfre eage ofifrl :?f El qrsn, Syauté, yourself fromblessing around the edge of the teavrng the'help middle, as the of heaven will the middle, as the blessing of heaven will descendleaving upon it.' it.' descend upon of. hospitality. are rigorously observed by the .,1|11-11*,.. The laws bo~;pitalit:y by the rvroslems. lt a of stranger, be he we]l or poorly dressed, upp"urc If a stranger, or of atMoslems. the entrane to a tent, or at the door a t ou*",'unO'urt, at the entrance the to a master tent, or of at the house, asks for hospitality, the door household i_;;;;i; for hospitality, the master of the household immediately answers: 'Be welcome,, and bids him enter, indicatinj and which bids him enter, indicatinga a answers: 'Becarpet welcome,' o1 the nla99 or mat covers the floor. Im_ place on the carpet or mat covers the tloor. Immediately, the visit is treated aswhich a festive occasion mediately, the avisit as a festive occasionand andthe the guTt is offered cup isoftreated coffee or tea and whatever offered a cup of coffee or tea and whateverthere thereisis guesttoiseat. ready to eaL _H_ospitality is the duty of every good Moslem. of every good Moslem. When a Moslem family offers ybriro.rln esselmenor you sorne messe/men orsome y.baa1-el garroussa (cakes in thi fo.m oi tapering fingerssorne or of tapering sebaas-el aarroussa in the fonn biscuits shaped like small hands) it is-; ,ig' tt-"t fingers or biscuits shaped like smaU hands) it is a sign thatt;;;;; you are welcome. welcome. The pattern ofthe hand seen on the cakes, on tents. tents,onon The pattern of the hand seen on the cakes, onthethe

l010

the walls, windows and doors of Moslem houses, a symbol the walls, windows and doors of Moslem hou ses, is aissymbol of power and has an historical significance. of power and has an historical significance. Moses, having changed his rod into a serp€nt, showed cbanged his rod into a serpent, showed hishis ,Moses, having Pharaoh,as as bear witness po*.r.-fn. 114^tl hand to Pharaoh, if if to to bear witness to to hishis power. Tbe faithful th's adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses faithful thus adopted the symbol of the hand of Moses as as a a protection from the evil eye. protection from the evil rigid period of fasting, Ramadan, prescribed of thethe Ramadan, is is pre:scrlbf:d A y1ry .-A ror a,, Mosrems during alr daylight hours of the.n^ti.. month hours of the month of Ramadan, which is the ninth-month of the fvfonammeOan month of the Mohammedan year. year. The word Ramadan comes from a verb meaning rain, The word Ramadan cornes from a verb meaning totorain, because washes away the sins of the flesh and .t.""nr", away the sins of the flesh and cleanses thelt. because it itwashes heartofofitsits.rn.nllf·,tll'<;: impurities. heart The period of fasting was laid down by Mohammed, _The during secondyear year oithe Hegira, to sanciify by,;Eious during thesecond observance the memory of what-happened toit. fi;f;; observance the when atethe the forbiddenfruit. fruit. Ad'am, banished fro. tfr" when heheate Garden of Fden, cried bitterly, but his iepentance Garden of Eden, cried bitterly, but his repentance was wasnot not GoduntÏl untilthirty thirtydays daysal'after iri,fall, fall,when lccgltedbybyGod accepted ter his *h;;rusil; body had been cleansed of the impurities with body had been c1eansed of the impurities with wruch whichhis his disobedienoe had tainted him, and posterity wasthus disobedience had tainted him, and posterity was thusconcon. demned consecutive fast fastofofthirty thiriy daysa ayear. year. demned totoa aconsecutive During themonth Ramadanthe the-Moslems must mustabstain the monthofofRamadan abstain ^ from food, drinkand andtobacco tobaccol'rom fromsunrise sunrisetotosunset. sunset. l'rom drink NorthAfrica, Africa,where Islam isisthe predominatingreliyhergIslam thepredominating In North .In reli_ gion, burst of artilery fire announces to the faithfu]that gion, aaburst of artillery fire announces to the faithful th;t Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing Ramadan has commenced. During the ensuing thirty tfrirtydays auy,a single cannon shot fired firedeach each evening atatsunset sunset signaIs single cannon shot signalsthe the" "u"iing end offasting for that day. end of fasting for that day. Ramadan ends ends with with pantagruelian feasts, feasts,called Ramadan ia-e/called AAid-etKibir, which which somewhat somewhat ."r".ibl, the the Christian Christian Christmas Kébir, Christmas dinner. Moslems who cannot cannot celebrate celebrate this this feast feast at dinner. Moslems who at home home gather together in Moorish caf6s. gather together in Moorish cafés. Culingry specialities specialities of of Nortb North AfricaAfrica _ Culinary Adssida. Flour Flour boiled boiled in in water, water, then then mixed mixed with Aâssida. with butter. butter. Basco-utou. Spanish Spanish loaf loaf made made of of egg yolks, flour egg yolks, BascoulOu. flour and and orange blossoms. blossoms. orange Bissar. Drid beans cooked in water and and oil Bissar. Dried beans cooked in water oil until until they they form aa sort eaten hot hot or or cold. form sort ofjelly; eaten head Bouzel/ouf he ad singed on aa brisk fire to remove remove ,,Bgulellou!..Sheep's au with oil, ail hatrs; hairs; boiled, boiled, then seasoned witb oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper pepper and and garlic. garlic. Breyes beylicales. beylicales. Little Little squares of of cooked semolina semolina mixed .Bleyes with pistachio almonds. with pistachio nuts, nuts, walnutJ walnuts and almonds. Brik.Eggs Brik. Eggs in in puffpastry puff pastry fried fried in in oil. oil. Cacao. Cacao. Little Little reddi*-brgy reddish-brown lozenges lozenges made made from from sugar, sugar, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, almonds almonds and and lemon lemon essence. "i"o"". Chekchuka. A dish Chekchuka. A dish made made of of sweet sweet or or strong strong peppers, peppers, tomatoes, tomatoes, baby baby marrows marrows _(zucchini) (zucchini) or or auU"rglnir-ffi aubergines (eggplants), plan ts),-cut cut in in pieces pieces and and fried fried in in olive olive oit oil *ttiguiit with garlic u?"0 and onion, and onion, the the whole wholeeither eithermixed mixed with with beaten beaten eggs, eggs, or or not, not, and cooked cookedfor for aa few few minutes minuteson on aa slow slow fire. fire. Cherb-a-bel-fnft. Green Greencorn corn soup. soup. Djendjelem. A whitish, whitish, soft soft_pastl, made made of ofsugar, sugar, ginger, ginger, starch and andaapinch pinchofofpepper. pepper.It isisbought boughtready--madi. ready-made. of rice, chopped chopped meat meat Dolma. Highly Highly seasoned seasoned mixture mixture oirice, lolrya. and andonions. onionsyrapped wrappedinincabbage cabbageleaves, leaves,covered coveredwith withwater water and andcooked cookedininaacasserole casserolewith-fire with firebelow belowand andabove. above.simii;; Similar totoTurkish Turkishdolma. dolma. Douara. Douara.Boiled Boiledpluck pluckand andtripe tripeseasoned seasonedwith withcumin cuminand and

sprces.

Guizada. AA kind kindofofscalloped scallUIPOO little liUlecookie cookiemade madefrom from semolina oven. andeggs, baked in the oven. semolinaand Homse. andcoated coatedwith withhoney. honey. friedand Homse.Little balls of phste friod Kabab. Mutton cut cut into squares, braised Kabab. Mutton braised ioin butter, seasoned seasonedwith withsalt saltand andpepper pepperan-d served servedliberally liberally garnished with andparsley. parsley. withsliced slicedonions onionsand Kefta.Chopped Kefta. Choppedand andspiced spicedmutton, mutton,shaped shapedinto intorissoles rissoles

f"tC g";iJ;;

ALIMENT ALIMENT This This rago,fit ragoût is is a country country dish dish called called alicot alicot rn in dialect. dialect. The The etymological etymological root root is is retained retained in in all aU its its various various forms: forms: ali, a/i, wings; wings; cait, cuit, cooked.

and grilled grilled over over aa wood wood fire. fire. and mutton cooked cooked in in oil oil and and fat fat and and thus th us prepreKhali'. Dried Dried mutton Khali'. served. served. LianL Lamb stew stew with with chick chick peas, peas, seasoned seasoned with with wild wild Liani. Lamb parsley. parsley. Pastry lozenges lozenges stuffed shlffed with with dates. dates. Makrouda. Pastry Makrouda. M'darbel. Mixture Mixture of of fried fried baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini) (zucchini) and and M'darbel. !ittle pieces of of beef beef fried fried in in oil oil seasoned seasoned with with hot hot pimento pimento and and little of vinegar. aa dash ofvinegar. Chickenfricassée with with chick chick peas. peas. Mekechter. Chicken/ricassie Mekechter. Merga. Strongly Strongly spiced spiced stock stock made made of of mutton'or mutton'or chicken, chicken, Merga. or both, both, which which the the Arabs Arabs drink drink only only when when itit isis very very cold or or in or of illness. cases ofillness. cases Cake made made from from milk, milk, semolina, semolina, pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, M'habia. Cake M'habia. walnuts and and pine nuts. nuts. walnuts pasta and tomatoes. M'hamsa. Soup with with pasta M'hamsa. Mokh. Sheep's brain and and tongue, seasoned with garlic, Mokh. parsley. cayenne pepper and wild parsley. cayenne made from from chopped chopped sheep's sheep's pluck Osbane. Forcemeat made Osbane. and meat, mixed mixed with rice, rice, seasoned seasoned with red red pepper and and stuffing sheep's intestines. intestines. spices. Used for stuffing J'{II'Y1-lJer-lelrTGSS A stew made of of gazelle meat and Saharan Saharan Rim-bel-terfa,rs. truffles (Saharan dish). trufres Mixture of chopped mutton and onions seasoned seasoned Sferia. Mixture with salt, salt, pepper and and cumin. These These are are shaped into !iule little with fried in butter. butter. balls, dipped in egg and fried Tadjin helou. Very delicate stew made of mutton or beef, quinces. veÉ~et,lbl(!s in and aa few few quinees. or raisins and vegetables in season, season, prunes or covered with pie pastry and and cooked in the oyen. oven. This is covered Terbia-bel-hebar. Macédoine of vegetables served with with aa Terbia-bel-hebar. Macidoine (little bustard or field duck). roast bustard (!iule Tleitli. Macaroni garnished with chopped chopped meat and baked Macaroni garnished eggs. eggs. Tomina. in an an earthenware Tomina. Coarse cooked in Coarse semolina semolina cooked and boiling honey. casserole and plunged into butter and petals, rose petaIs, Yubbo. Cake made from honey, olive oil, rose ftour flour and dandelions. Other much-valued palm milk; Other specialities include lagni, lagni, much-valued leben, and kéfir k6fir made from cow's, cow's, leben, which is nothing but whey; whey ; and goat's goat's or rahatloucoum, sahleb, sahleb, chreyba, rahatloucoum, or sbeep's sheep's milk; chreyba, rogagues, messelmen, dates, etc. makroutes, stuffed stufed dates, etc. messelmen, makroutes, (in its And forms), several forms), its several list tadjins (in And when we add to to this list we add (see méchoui its various accompaniments (see michoui and and couscous couscous with its COUSCOUS) Israeli and Israeli of Tunisian and delicacies of and the the delicacies COUSCOUS) and cuisine, need not not cookery need African regional cookery we realise realise that that African cuisine, we fear more sophisticated metropolitan with more fear comparison comparison with cusine. cusine.

ALIMENTALIMENT - Derived Derived from from the the Latin Latin word word alere:to alere: to nourish, nourish,

root alt to cause to to grow. grow. The The Celtic root ait means means nourishment. nourishment. The The word word 'aliment' 'aliment' indicates indicates an an object, object, while while the the word word

'nourishment' 'nourishment' indicates indicates an an action, action, although although the the latter latter is is often employed as a synonym of 'aliment'. 'aliment'. Any Any substance substance which upon entering the the body is is capable of supplying supplying itit with materials materials for for growth or or repair repair and and with fuel for its energy energy requirements is an aliment. aliment. Simple aliments aliments are are those that the organism consumes consumes and absorbs hc,..... }.", without ",;t!"... "t first submitting them them to to modification modification;; water, (see which is of of considerable considerable alimentary importance (see which is in this substances WATER), WATER), and sea salt are about the only :ou ILJ:>L,alllvC;:O in category. must begin we must To study study the To the aliments aliments we begin by selecting the genuinely alible of each each one one and proceed to alible elements elements of elementary consider as eleme:nUlry examine examine them individually. Today we consider (that is of carbon, is substances of aliments, ternary substances (that substances are always hydrogen hyd rogen and oxygen). These ternary su bstances are the carbomineral elements, elements, namely the associated with with other mineraI (also called zirrocalled nitrofats and and quaternary substances (also hydrates, fats gmous substances nitrogen combines combines witb with the substances because because nitrogen genous are and oxygen). oxygen). Quaternary substances are carbon, hydrogen and carbon, (formerly called proteids or proteins (formerly To these called albuminoids). albuminoids). To (simple, ternary and quaterand quaterthree broad classes of aliments (simple, and vitamins. mineral substances substances and add minerai nary) we must add and sugars. sugars. starches and Carbohydrates are represented by the starches animal tissues, tissues, quantities present in in sorne some animal small quantities from small Apart from the digestive action of of the The action all of of vegetable origin. The these are ail glucose which by is absorbed by which is ferments transforms them into glucose fennents glycogen or or liver into into glycogen the liver by the then condensed condensed by the blood, blood, then the the little by little little to to meet the down Ettle is broken down starch. This This is animal starch. animal decomposition of this this decomposition The final final stage stage of requirements. The body's requirements. illnesses the the proyields water and In certain certain illnesses acid. In and carbonic carbonic acid. products and intermediary intermediary pn.)UUl,;lS arrested and cess of of decomposition decomposition isis arrested cess quantity of of (acids) which When the the quantity the blood. blood. When remain in in the which remain form (acids) fonn level as as aa too high aa level glucose circulating reaches too in the the blood blood reaches circulating in glucose part of of ilit is eliminated eliminated transformation, part result of of inadequate inadequate transformation, result Such isis (which normally any). Such not con contain does not normally does in the the urine urine (which in tain any). in diabetes. diabetes. case in the the case fats. These These carbohydrates into into fats. can transform transform carbohydrates The body body can The interchangeable. to an an extent extent interchangeable. two aliments aliments are are therefore therefore to two glycerine of glyeerine fatty bodies are esters: esters: compounds compounds of or fatty bodies are The fats fats or The present in are present in both both fatty bodies fatty acids. acids. Alimentary Alimentary fatty bodies are and fatty and ferments kingdoms. The The digestive digestive ferments and vegetable vegetable kingdoms. the animal animal and the themselves to to which then then reconstitute reconstitute themselves decompose the the fats, which decompose and laid dOWll down in in the the tissues tissues and fats. The fat fat isis th then form organic fats. en laid form body and isis utilised utilised by by the the body in the cellular tissue, tissue, and the cellular especially in \.<"k-''''''''''Y not the fat fat thus thus laid laid in' idreserve needs. When When the according to to its its needs. according reserve isis not quantity by in the the the body, accumulates by the body, itit accumula used in in sufficient sufficient quantity used tes in results in in obesity. obesity. and tissues tissues and and results organs and partially replaced inin the the diet diet by carbocarboFats may be be partially diet the diet are not not absolute equivalents equivalents and the hydrates, but these these are hydrates, fats minimum of of 70 70g.S. (21 oz.) fats must contain contain aa minimum adult must of an an adult of QLoz.) must insummer but itit must may he decreased in sr,rmmer but daily. This This amount amount may be decreased daily. perday, oz.) which 25 25g.g.(l(l oz.) day, of of which a0 g.g. (1(1* oz.) per never fall fall below below 40 never t oz.) animal fat. fat. should beanimal should be part of of certain certain organs, and forms aa normal normal part fat forms Although Although fat too, are are constitutive constitutive elements of although although carbohydrates, carbohydrates, too, principal function twoelements elements isis function ofthese of these two theprincipal certain certain tissues, tissues, the that the the body body isis provide energy. them that thanks toto them to to provide energy. ItIt isis thanks capable physical exertion maintaining its its,,,,,,,,,,,",r,,_ temperaand of of maintaining exertion and capable of of physical as,",V'''U'''''Ll combustives, therefore, mainly as are considered, considered, therefore, ture. Theyare ture. ..u ..'",t,,nf aliments, theoxygen oxygeninin aliments, since since itit isis through the respiratory or as r"<: bustion isiseffected. effected. the air thattbis this corn combustion

garnish, ALGÉRIENNE (A L') the name name of of aa garnish, L') -- This This isis the ALGfRIENNE (À aplpl!c:able tomatoes principally to of small tomatoes to meaL meat. It It consists consists ofsmall applicable nnnf',r.",II" potato croquettes, or sweet potato croquettes, or accompanied by by sweet braiSed in oil acc;onlpamHX1 in butter. butter. sweet potatoes cooked in

ALICA were very Romans were which the the Romans of porridge of of which A sort ALICA -- A sort of fond. (hard or wheat, what durum wheat, spelt (hard or durum It was wils prepared with spelt fond. It today sort of of clay clay mixed with with aa sort known as wheat) mixed as German German wheat) today isis known (creta) (creta\ found hill of of Naples on on the the hill and Naples Pozzuoli and found between between Pozzuoli Leucogee Alica. (Pliny). A from Alica. was also also made made from A drink drink was Leucogee (Phny). ItIt isis said sesterces to to 20,000 sesterces rent of of 20,000 said that Augustus paid aa rent that Augustus the (Creta in n to this this clay. clay. (Creta Neapolitans for for the the exclusive right to the Neapolitans Latin ans both 'clay' and and 'chalk'.) Latin me means both 'clay' ALICANTE (vtN D') very well-known well-known o') -- AA very WINE. ALICANTE ALIcANTE (VIN ALICANTE WINE. dessert province of This isis Alicante. This of Alicante. wine from from the the Spanish Spanish province dessert wine also variety of of red red given in the midi midi of of France France to to aa variety also the the name name given n the grape (known, too, as Grenache). grape (known, Grenache). too, as ALICUIT (principgiblets (princip(Languedoc cookery) of giblets Ragofrt of cookery) -- Ragoût ALICUIT (Languedoc ally prepared as gszzards and as described described in in the the wings) prepared ally turkey and wings) turkey gizzards recipe (see GIBLETS). giblets bonne-femme bonne-femme (see GIBLETS). recipefor for Turkey Turkey giblets Il ll

ALIMENT ALIMENT Theoretically, fats fats decompose decompose into into carbonic carbonic acid acid and and Theoretically, (like the water (Iike the carbohydrates); carbohydrates); but in certain but in certain illnesses illnesses this this water decomposition stops stops at at one one of of several several intermediate intermediate stages stages decomposition and the the resulting resulting excess exc€ss of of fatty fatty acids acids found found in in the the blood blood and constitutes one one of of the the factors factors of of acidosis. acidosis. constitutes The albuminoids albuminoidsQtroteinic quaternary substances) or quaLernary substances\ concon(proteinic or The tain carbon, carbon, hydrogen, hydrogen, oxygen principal elements, oxygen as as their their principal elements, tain and aa fourth fourth -- rutrogen. nitrogen. Their Their chemical chemical composition composition isis and (see ALBUMINOIDS). extremely complex complex (see ALBUMINOIDS). Under Under the the extremely influenoe of digestive elements of digestive elements they they are are subjected subjected to to aa series series influence of modifications modifications which production of which terminate terminate in in the the production of of albumins; these these are are used used in in the constitution constitution of of our our tissues. tissues. albumins; organism uses partly as the albuminoids The organism uses the albuminoids partly as energy energy The principally to factors, but growth and but principally to aid aid growth and in in the the reparation factors, of our our tissues. tissues. of Unlike carbohydrates carbohydrates and fats, fats, albuminoids albuminoids do do not underUnlike go total total deeomposition; decomposition; in in eight cases cases out of of ten ten this stops at at go theurea stage, the remainder being eliminated in the the form form of of the urea stage, various nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, sorne some ofwhich of which have still still not not various been determined. determined. been (the great Deficiencies of great transformer of the the liver liver (the transformer of nitronitroDeficiencies genous substances) or (the great great eliminators or of of the the kidneys kidnep (the eliminators genous of the proteins, or the same) cause cause proteins, products of disintegraor their their products of tion, to accumulate accumulate in in the blood and a serious disorder called called tion, (of which azotaemia results results (of which uraemia is is aa modification). modification). ln In azotaemio instances, the other instances, the urine is found found to to contain contain substances itit other not ta ougbt not to contain contain such such as as aminic acids or even albumins ought (ahuminuria'1. (albuminuria). group alsa albuminoid group The albuminoid also comprises related subcomprises closely related The known as as proteidae which are are albumins combined stances known proteidae which with aa carbohydrate carbohydrate to form aa paranucleine with to fOTm paranuc/eine (paranucleoQtaranucleoproteides). proteides). 'albuminoids' are Finally, classod as as 'albuminoids' are non-proteic non-proteic nitronitroFinally, classed genous substances gelatine, keratin, substances like like ge1atine, genous keratin, etc. Minerals,too, are indispensable Minerais, too, are indispensable elements of of our alimenta(sea salt) tion. Sodium chloride chloride (sea mineral used alone tion. Sodium salt) is is the only minerai in state; the occur as of various elements of in its its natural natural state; the others oceur as elements various (probably the compounds only form fonn in which they they are compounds (probably the only in which assimilable) combined with albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates assimilable) with the albuminoids, and and fats fats of of our our natural natural foods. We know the tbe approximate approximate needs needs of of the organism organism as as regards regards We know certain daily in certain chemical chemical substances substances that tbat are are eliminated eliminated daily ponderable The excreLa, excreta, for example, remove ponderable quantities. quantities. The for example, from 4-75 body each day on average average 7 g. g. soda, soda, 4· 75 g. g. potasfrom the the body sium, sium, 1.25 1·25 g. g. calcium, calcium, 1.63 1·63 g. g. phosphorus, phosphorus, 0.5 0·5 g. g. magnesia, magnesia, quantity of 0.05 0·05 g. g. iron, Iron, 0.05 0-05 g. g. sulphur, sulphur, as as well weil as as a a small quantity of chloride chloride and and traces traces of of manganese, manganese, bromine, bromine, iodine, silica and and fluorine. fluorine. Other Other elements elements enter enter into into alimentation alimentation in imponderable say that Imponderable quantity, quantity, which which does does not not mean mean to to say their their r6le rôle is is insignificant; insignificant; in in fact fact there is is a probability probability that we we may may find nnd among among these these imponderables împonderables an explanation expia na Lion for for the part vitamins vitamins play play in in the the diet. diel. For For example, example, recent recent the part research that vitamins vitamins act as as coenzymes coenzymes (or (or research has has revealed revealed that codiastases) codiastases) and and are are therefore therefore involved involved in in the the degradation degradation or or resynthesis resynthesis of of the the various various nutriments. nutriments. Remineralisation Remineralisation experiments have been been carried carried out with witb animals. That is is to to say, say, the the principal principal minerals minerais have have been been animais. That removed from their their alimentation alimentation and replaced replaced by complex complex removed from mineral minerai mixtures. mixtures. These These experiments experiments invariably invariably failed when chemically chemically pure pure salts salts were were used; used; positive positive results results were obob· tained tained using using less-well-purified less-well-purified salts, which which shows the the important portant r6le rôle impurities impurities (i.e., (i.e., the the imponderable im ponderable traces traces of of certain certain elements) elements) play play in in the tbe diet. Most Most of of the the chemists chemists who who have have analysed analysed the the aliments aliments have have determined detcrmined their their total total mineralisation mineralisation by by reducing reducing them them to to the the form of ash. ash. This This calls calls for for complicated complicated calculations calcuJations and and form of gives gives far far from from accurate accurate results results when when the the final final figure figure is i5 applied applied to to fresh fresh foods, foods, such such as as those those we we consume consume daily. daily. This This

explained not not only only by diversity of by the the diversity the methods of the methods ememisis explained (in the ployed, but but also also (in animal) by the animal) by the the differences differences arising arising ployed, from the the race, race, feeding feeding and and cuts cuts considered; considered; in in the the vegetable. vegetable, from the variety, variety, the the soil soil in in which which itit has has been been cultivated, cultivated, the the the part analysed. fertiliser used, analysed. used; the the part fertiliser M. R. R. Berg Berg has has calculated calculated the the figures figures for for cabbages cabbages in in the the M. table. accompanying table.

CABBAGES GATHERED GATHERED CADDAGES in March March in Decemba December in in

potassium Oxide of of potassium Oxide

0.5067 0·5067

of sodium sodium Oxide of

0·0330

0.6748 0·6748

anhydride Phosphoric anhydride

0.0330 0.1730 0·1730 0.22t6 0·2216 0.5833 0·5833

Sulphuric anhydride

0.5833 0·5833

0.2569 0·2569

Chlorine

0.6550 0·6550

0.4445 0·4445

lime Oxide of lime

iron of iron Oxide of

0.0640 0·0640 0.1596 0·1596

0.2870 0·2870 0.0287 0·0287

cent of offresh substances fresh substances Per cent is made of the Figures vary according to whether analysis is leaves, the the interior leaves leaves or or the the buds buds of the the vegevegeexterior leavcs, table. Basic Basic elements predominate in in the exterior, exterior, whereas interior leaves and, in particular, the the buds, are distinctly the interior acid. ratio and the ratio and proportion of Cooking procedures modify the mineral salts primarily by dissolving the alkaline elements, minerai pieoe of so that that if if aa piece of beef in which the acid elements the acid elements presa in which dominate is boiled an an alkaline alkaline stock can can be obtained. effect of cooking is even more more marked with vegetables. The elTeet of cooking Blanching (prerequisite in in the manufacture of tinned food) reduces the mineral minerai content of vegetables and destroys destroys the minerals. Prolonged boiling has an even more damagbasic mineraIs. ing effect. The effects are less iog elTect. effecls of other methods of cooking cook.ing are Jess drastic since sine thejuices the juices released by the the vegetable vegetable are usually usually consumed consumed with it. iL

TOTAL IN: COOKING /N: TOTAL MINERAL MINERAL TOSS LOSS DURING DUR/NG COOK/NG

Water

Water per cent cent

49.95 Carrots Carrots 49·95 Potatoes 66.74 66·74 Potatoes 66'67 Onions Onions 66·67

Oil per cent cent

Fat Fat per cent cent

Butter Butter

per cent cenl

30.59 30·59

20.91 20·91

19.65 19·65

31.33 31·33

52'38 52·38

42.85 42·85

47.25 47·25

60

53.M 53·44

LOSS OF POTASSIUM SALTS

Carrots 52.05 52·05 Carrots Potatoes 57.61 57·61 Potatoes Onions 66'67 Onions 66·67

23.97 23·97

14.38 14·38

22.60 22·60

20-46 20-46

l11·51 l.5l 19.16 19·16

26.67 26·67

13.33 13·33

tt.97 11·97

Some have shown shown how how the the total total loss loss of Sorne experiments have minerals minerais and and potassium salts varies according aceording to 10 different dilTerent cooking cooking procedures. procedures. Artificial Artificial aliments aUments - Natural foods that that have have been been prepared industrially are not not included included under under this heading heading (they pared industrially will with later). later). Here Here we we are referring to aliments aliments will be dealt with that that have have been been chemically treated treated in order to make them more more digestible digestible or or more more easily easily assimilated: assimilated: there there are are many many of them. them. Among Among the the nitrogenous rutrogenous substances substances are are purified purified albumins, albumins, legumin, legumin, albumoses albumoses and and peptones. peptones. All AU these these proproducts can can be be prescribed prescribed therapeutically therapeutically but but their their prolonged prolonged use use inevitably inevi ta bly leads leads to to disorders; disorders; they they have have never ne ver succeeded succeeded in supplementing natural natural foods foods in in the the adult diet. diet. As As far as as in supplementing children those children are are concerned, co ncerned , modified modified artificial artificial foods foods are are those most most frequently frequently used, used, dextrined dextrined and and malted malted flours, flours, etc. etc.

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l2 12

ALIMENT Chemical aliments - We We must must not not forget forget that that even even if if albuminoids, albuminoids, carbohydrates carbohydrates and fatty fany bodies are elements elements of our alimentation, alimentation, they they are are not not aliments. Aliments have have a (apart from traditional traditional form form and and are are borrowed borrowed (apart from a a few minerals) mineraIs) from the animal or vegetable kingdoms; the three three are merely constituents of aliments aliments (along elements listed listed are elements with a few indigestible with a few indigestible substances such such as as cellulose). The presence of of cell ulose besides besides providing bulk has been been proved cellulose after after exhaustive research research to ta be be indispensable indispensable in in the the accomplishment complishment of phenomena. of digestive phenomena. An aliment contains, or Complete aliment that that contains, or is Complete aliment aliment - An reputed to contain, alimentary substances in the containn the various alimentary right only practically complete right proportions. proportions. Milk Milk is is the the only food (as far as babies are concerned) and even it is deficient in Vitamin C. Some of the &onomy aliments the substances we occasionEconomy aliments -- Sorne ally describe in this way have, like Iike cocoa and chocolate, real tea, coffee, act food value; others, such food value; such as as tea, coffee, coca-cola, only act through the nervous excitation excitation they provoke. It is arguable whether or not the ingestion of these these substances can increase the energy output stances output ofa diet, but they can, appease, the sensaunder certain conditions, conditions, calm or falsely appease, tion of hunger and and impart a feeling of well-being. Nuhitive Nutritive value of certain elements -- Bearing in in mind the various elements in the the normal importance normal diet importance of the various elements in of the (albumins, carbohydrates, fats, etc.) an aliment will be more nourishing the more fatty fa Ity bod ies it contains, for these are nourishing the bodies richest, riches t, volume for volume, in calories. calories. The mutual mu tuaI substitution tables tables of various groups of aliments (see below) give sorne some indication of the relative values of certain aliments of vegetable origin. We Wc have of of animal and vegetable Randoin, MM. Legallic, Causerets and to thank Mme. Lucie Randoin, Duch€ne for them. G. Duchêoe G. as basic Meat, milk, milk, butter and and bread have have been Meat, been taken taken as elements in in these The compilers compilers have these substitution substitution tables. tables. The clements

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6. Beverages: Beverages: 6. (a) (b) (c) (c) (d)

water fruit juices juices alcoholic drinks alcoholic aromatic aromatic drinks.

stomach is more sensiWeight aliments - Normally Weigbt of ofaUments NormaUy the stomach

aliments than to tive tive to to the the weight weight of aliments to their their volume. volume. The the total diet (beverages excluded) ranges weight of the total diet rauges from weight g. for 1500 1800 g. 1500 to to 1800 for a a man, man, aa little Iittle less less for for a a woman; the weight becomes excessive excessive above above 2500 g.

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must not The The average weight weight of a a meal meal must not exceed 800 800 to 1000 g. for a man and 600 to 800 g. for a woman. Generally Generally a feeling of saliety satiety occurs occurs before these these limits are reached. reached.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF ANIMAL FOODS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FOODS replaced as as aa source 100 can be source of 100 G. G. MEAT (net weight) wcight) can be replaced protein by: g. olfal 100 g. offal or variety meats 100 g. fish (net weight) 2| 2-t eggs It litre milk or the equivalent in milk derivatives (see table below)

OF DAIRY MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION DAIRY FOODS MUTUAL S(]BSTITUTION OF replaced by: MILK can be replaced !* LITRE MILK

120 g. unsweetened concentrated milk 80 g. sweetened concentrated milk 30 g. powdered milk 125 g. curdled milk (cream cheese) yoghurt (about 250 g.) 2 small cartons yoghurl 4 petits petjf5 .slli.sses (about 120 g.) szisses (about 1I demisel demi-sel (about 60 g.) 40-50 Camembert, fermented soft cheese (Brie, Camembert, 40-50 g. fermented etc.) Coulommier s, Livarot, Munster, etc.) Coulommiers, (Gruyire, Dwch Dutch cheese, g. fermented hard cheeses (Gruyère, 30-40 g. 30--40 etc.) S aint - P aulin, Cantal, etc.) Saint-Paulin, g. Gruyère Gruyire cream cream cheese 60 g. g. goat goat cheese 25 g.

(closely quantities of then calculated the aliments (c1osely of other other aliments then caJculated the quantities given w!::ight weight related in nutritive value) required to replace aa given of each each of these basic elements. they have naturally taken In establishing these quantities, they into account in each group are aceount that the aliments mentioned in precisely the not of precisely same composition composition andmay and'may ev even differ en ditfer the same points. We profoundly on see the We can can nevertheless see on certain points. advantage of comparing which, practically speakadvantage comparing aliments which, ing, are interchangeable. If the is sufficiently alimentation is jng, are the alimentation from their their different varied the can only only benellt benefit from varied the organism can nutritional values. nutritional variable than than the is more variable Volume of aliments alimenb -- Nothing is stomach; although elastic organ organ the the stomach; capacity capacity of of that that elastic 1200 cm.) cm.3 is the recognised average capacity, this may fall to 600 cm] cm.3 according to the individual. cm.3 or rise to 2000 cm.) We must not forget that iogested ingested liquids leave the stomach very rapidly rapidly and only minimally minimally into into calculations calculations very and enter enter only involving the volume of aliments. to draw draw up a alimmts -- Any attempt to Classification of the tbe aliments guiding principles for for sensible eating must must be be based set set of guiding upon quite aa simple classification of the aliments. little to choose between the varÎous various classifications There is liule nutritionists, but like Mme. Randoin we prefer suggested by nutritîonists, the following: l. Milk and its derivatives (with the exception exception of butter). 1. 2. Various meats and and fish, fish, eggs. 2. 3. Fatty substances. 3. (flour, bread, rice, dried dried vege4. Starchy Starchy foods bread, noodles, noodles, rice, 4. foods (flour, and sweetened fruit, sugar, tables, potatoes) and sweetened foods (dried fruit, sugar, jam, chocolate, etc.). vegetables and fruit: 5. bles and 5. Fresh vegeta (a) eaten (cruditis) (a) eaten raw ruur (crudités) (b) eaten cooked.

OF FARINACEOUS MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION FARINACEOUS FOODS FOODS can be 100 G. BREAD can be replaced as aa source G. BREAD 70 g. cereal flour

of calories by:

70 g. rusks or dry sponge fingers g. biscuits 50 g. g. gingerbread 80 g. 70 g. porridge porridge oats 70 g. pasta or noodles g. rice 70 g. g. dried vegetables (haricot beans, lentils, 75 g. lenlils, peas, etc.) g. potatoes (gross weight) 350 g. g. chestnuts chestnuts (gross weight) 150 g. prunes, etc.) g. dried fruit (dates, figs, prunes, 90 g.

MUTUAL SUBSTITUTION OF FATTY SUBSTITUTION OF MUTUAL SUBSTANCES lipids by: as aa source of lipids G. BUTTER BUTTER can can be replaced as 100 G. g. animal fat fat, etc.) fat (lard, mutton fat, 100 g. g. oil 85 g. g. margarine 100 g. 120 g. unsmoked bacon foods is of alimenb= consistency of foods Consistmcy of the aliments Consisteocy - The consistency far greater importance (as regards their digestion) than their volume or rule, whatever whatever their their initial initial conor weight. weight. As volume As aa rule, to reach reach the stomach reduced reduced to to a aliments ought to the stomach sistency, alîment5 t3 13

ALIMENTATION ALIMENTATION (or pap) pap) tbrough rulp (or through mastication mastication and (for the and insalivation insalivation (for the mlp gastric musculature musculature isis too too feeble feeble in in tbe the human human species species to to 6astric break down down large large fragments; fragments; the the latter latter lie lie too too long long in in the the break stomach and and cao can cause cause dyspepsia). dyspepsia). The The bad bad habit habit of of not not stomach properly, of chewing food food properly, of swallowing swallowing too (tachyquickly (tachytoo quickly chewiog phagra) has has the possible effects. the worst worst possible effects. pbagia) X-ray examination examination reveals, reveals, for for example, example, that that aa hardhardX-ray boiled egg, egg, considered considered to to he be one of the the most one of most indigestible indigestible of of boiled just as foods, leaves leaves the the stomach stomach just quickly as as quickly as aa soft-boiled soft-boiled egg egg foods, grated finely (or chewed if itit isis grated finely (or chewed very very thoroughly) give itit aa thoroughly) to to give if similar consistency. consistency. similar We must must Dot not conclude conclude from from this this that that the the Ideal ideal way way of of We ingesting food food isis in in the the fform pur6e; on of aa purée; on the the contrary, contrary, ingesting onn of pur6ed foods foods are last resort, are aa last resort, to to have have recourse recourse to to in in cases cases of of puréed infection of the mouth mouth and of the and teeth, teeth, or or as as aa temporary temporary measure measure infection in some some forms forms of of dyspepsia, dyspepsia, or or in in the the early early stages stages of of conconin valescence. The The importance importance ofmasticatîon, of mastication, insalivation, insalivation, and and valescence. digestion cannot cannot he be over over emphasised; emphasised; aa diet diet consîsling consisting solely solely digestion pur6ed foods of puréed foods would would not not stimulate stimulate the the stomach stomach muscles muscles of sufficiently and gastric atony; and could could ca cause atony; itit could could also also lead lead slIfficiently use gastric to dental dental caries caries owing owing to to the the enforced idleness imposed enforced idleness imposed on on to the teeth. teeth. So So one one must must encourage encourage the the culinary culinary habit habit of of the (fried croûtons, adding some some hard hard substances substances (fried cro0tons, for for example) example) adding presented in pur6ed fonn. to foods foods presented in puréed form. to Tenperature of of the the aliments·alimenb- Hot Hot foods foods are are morestimulatmore stimulatTemperabue ing than than cold cold and and man man always always looks looks for for such such stimulation stimulation in in lng his food, food, for for unlike unlike other other animal species he he is animal species is not not content content his simply to to have have his his hunger hunger appeased. appeased. simply Only extreme extreme lemperatures temperatures are are harmful harmful to to tbe the organism. Only If food food is is too too hot hot itit can can cause cause burns burns to to the the mou mouth, the If th, the tongue, and and the the œsophagus, esophagus, especially especially when when hot Iiquids liquids are longue, gulped down. down. The The latter latter can can also also cause cause irritation to the irritation to gulped stomach which may even gastritis. even develop develop into stomach which may into gastritis. Foods cold induce induce conslriction constriction of of the Foods which which are are too too cold capillary blood of the the stomach, stomach, causing causing subsequent subsequent capillary blood vessels vessels of dilatation. The side side effects effects are are even even worse dilatation. The worse than than those produced foods which are too too hot. produced by by foods which are hot. The nature consistency of of the aliments have The nature and and consistency the aliments have aa strong bearing on how can, if bearing on how their their temperature temperature is is withstood; withstood; one can, if need 60"C. (140'F.); need be, be, sip sip broth broth or or coffee coffee at at 60~C. (140~ F.); porridge porridge taken at al the the same same temperature temperature would would have have serious serious effects. effects. The particular particular moment moment at at which wbich these these foods foods are are quickly quickly swalswallowed lowed is is also also significant; significant; an an iced îced substance substance taken taken on on an empty empty stomach storoacb can can be be harmful, harmful, whereas whereas the the effect effect of of an ice cream cream taken taken immediately immediately after after a a meal meal and and received received by by an already already full full stomach stomach would wou!d not not be be nearly nearly so so serious. serious. Too Too swift swift a a transition transition from from hot hot to to cold, cold, for for example, example, aa hot hot food food followed followed immediately immediately by by an an iced iced drink, drînk, is is extremely extreme1y harmful harrnful to to the the enamel enamel of of the the teeth. teeth. Soups in the the plate, plate, so so they they are are usually usually Soups rapidly rapidly become become cold cold in served served very very hot; hot; itit is is hardly hardly possible possible to to drink drink aa clear clear soup soup (140"F.) heated heated above above 60"C. 60°C. (140°F.) -- even even above above 58"C. 58°C. (136'F.). (l36°F.). c Most Most people people wait wait until until itit cools cools to to 37" 37° to to 45"C 45 C (99'to (99° to 103'F.) 103°F.) to to taste laste the the flavour. flavour. Thick porridges, vegetable vegetable pur6es purees must must not not be be Thick soups, soups, porridges, drunk d runk above above 38" 38° to to 42"C. 42 C. (100" (100° to to 107'F.). 107°F.). Roast Roast meat meat isis usually usually served served between between 40o 40° and and 45"C. 45°C. (104' (104° and and ll3"F). I13 e F). Its Its temperature temperature must must not not fall fall below below 40"C. 40°C. (104'F.) fa t begins begins to to congeal congeal (this (this is is especially especially (104°F.) otherwise otherwise the the fat true of roast roast mutton). mutton). This This isis why why plates plates are are heated heated (particu(particutrue of larly larly meat meat plates). plates). Hot Hot bread bread of of 38"C. 38 C. (100"F.) (100°F.) and and above above is is much much more more indigestible indigestible than than cold cold bread; bread; this Ihis depends depends less less on on the the temperature temperature itself itself than than on on the the physical physical condition condition of of the the crumb. crumb. ItIl isis aa widespread widespread belief, belief, however, however, that that slow slow digestion digestion of of cold cold foods foods is 1S beneficial. beneficiaJ. Ninon Ninon de de Lenclos Lenclos attributes attributes his his sprightly cold food. food. sprightly old old age age to to having having all ail his his life lire eaten ea ten cold Psychologicd PsychologicaJ effects effects of of the the aliments aliments -- For For its its curiosity curiosity

value, here, here, according according to to aa learned learned Swedish Swedish doctor, doctor, are are the the value. produced on effects produced on man man by by the the different different foods foods he he eats: eats: effects (especially roast By eating eating beef roast beef) beef (especially beef) for for months months on on end, end, -- By one isis certain certain to acquire self-confidence to acquire self-confidence and and audacity audacity ... ... one Mutton makes makes one melancholy ... one melancholy ... -- Mutton pessimistic. Could Pork makes makes one one pessimistic. pork Could ilit be be that that pork -- Pork butchers only see see the the black black side side of of things? things? bu tchers only Duck ftesh flesh makes makes man man bad-tcmpered bad-tempered .. . . .. -- Duck For wit wit and and beauty beauty eggs eggs are are supreme supreme .. . . .. -- For Walnuts, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, almonds, almonds, dried dried figs figs develop develop the the -- Walnuts, mind.... .. mind Tomatoes, oranges oranges and and lemons lemons considerably considerably improve improve -- Tomatoes, quality of the quality the voiee voice ... ... of the the Finally, doughy doughy English-type English-type bread bread slows slows the the mental mental -- Finally, processes; light-textured light-textured brcad bread assures assures aa buoyant buoyant morale. morale. processes; Rye bread and and buckwheat buckwheatpancake one melancholy melancholy.... .. Rye pançake make one

ALIMENTATION -- Alimentation Alimentation varies varies according according to to age, age, ALIMENTATION profession, and climate, profession, and state state of health. of health. climate, Alimentation must provide (with must be be adequate. (with a adequate. Il It must must provide Alimentation small excess) excess) the (in the the wherewithal wherewithal for growth (in young for growth the young small repair and and upkeep of ofthe tissues and and organs, organs, person), for the repai! the tissues and for the the expenditure of ofenergy. and energy. To determine the the energy energy value value of an an aliment aliment or or diet, diet, wc we To employ as aa measure the calorie (q.v.), going going on the principle employas that ail all forms of energy energy can can be transfonned transformed into heat. that methods are are used to determine tbe used to the requirements Various methods of the the human body. body. One One way is is by by calculating calculating the the average of from global alimentation of the global population. Anotber of aa population. Another from the method (aliments and is by by analysing the the ingesta ingesta (aliments and oxygen method is consumed), and the excreta excreta (excretions, secretions, secretions, carbonic carbonic cODsumed), quantity of exhaled) and and the quantity ofheat discharged. acid exhaled) heat discharged. Modern dieticians a{"e are agreed agreed that the normal normal alimentation alimentation Modern for (65 kg. of average weight (65 or 143 lb.) in in repose for an an adult of kg. or or engaged in in only only Iight light duties duties must or must correspond to to 2350 calorieg that approximately 36 calories for every kg. 36 calories tbat is is approximately for every calories, of weight (2.2lb.). (2·2 lb.). Previously Previously aa much higher calorie intake was considered consid ered necessary. We usually allow that: I1 g. albuminoids 4'44 calories albuminoids gives out 4·44 I1 g. 4'23 calories g. carbohydrates carbohydrates gives out 4·23 I1 g. 9.40 calories g. fat fat gives gives out 9-40 The figures of of the the physiologist physiologist M. M. Atwater Atwater are are slightly lower lower because because he incorporated incorporated losses losses and waste products products in them. tbem. His His table reads as follows: Albuminoids 3'68 Albuminoids 3·68 calories per g. Carbohydrates 3'00 Carbohydrates 3·00 calories per g. Fats 8'65 8·65 calories per g. He He also distinguished distingulshed between between substances substances of of animal animal origin (best (best utilised) utilised) and substances of of vegetable vegetable origin. To obtain obtaill 100 100 calories one one must consume, consume, according according to to him: him: Animal 23.50 Animal proteins proteins 23· 50 g. g. Vegetable 28'19 Vegetable proteins proteins 28·19 g. Amyloide 25.00 Amyloide substances substances 25·00 g. Animal ll.18 Animal fats fats 11·18 g. g. Vegetable ll'97 Vegetable fats fats 11·97 s. g. We We must must not not lose lose sight of of the the fact fact that that these these figures figures are merely merely averages, averages, and and while while of of great great interest interest in in alimentary alimentary studies studies of of collectivities collectivitîes they they lose lose their their precision precision when when reduced of individuals. indivîduals. reduced to to the the level level of The The food food requirements requirements of of the the child child are are (in (În proportion proportion to to its its weight) weight) slightly slightly higher higher than than those those of of an an adult adult since since itit must must satisfy satisfy its ifS growing growing needs. needs. Those Those of of the the aged aged are are less less because of the reduced reduced expenditure expenditure ofenergy. ofenergy. Food Food requirerequirebccause ofthe ments ments increase increase with with the the lowering lowering of of exterior exterior temperatures temperatures and and with with the the work work done. done. The The daily daily diet diet must must be be balanced.It balanced. It must must contain contain aa miniminimum mum amount amount of of albuminoids albuminoids and and fats, fats, and and enough enough carbocarbo-

oc

Q

Q

l4 14

ALLIGATOR ALLIGATOR water, with with an extremely strong pungent pungent odour odour reminiscent reminiscent It is conof of urine. urine. Its Its fumes can be asphyxiating. asphyxiating. It is used used in in concarmines. . fectionery fectionery as as a solvent for for cochineal carmines.

hydrates hydrates to to ensure ensure that that the the two two preceding preceding elements are thoroughly thoroughly utilised. utilised. The normal normal diet must must comprise: comprise: 80 80 g. albuminoids albuminoids 70 70 g. fats fats 350 350 g. g. carbohydrates carbohydrates The The proportion proportion of of fats fats in in an an infant's diet diet must be higher in carbohydrates. relation to to carbohydrates. relation The The daily dai/y diet must must be be varied. The The impossibility of of measurmeasurthe imponderables imponderables of of alimentation alimentation (very minute minute mineral mineraI ing the substances "UiU:>I,
vegetable origin of vegetable ALKALOIDS. ALKALOIDS. lrcnroinss ALCALOÏDES - Substances of even when on the effect on that that have a a powerful powerful effect the organism, even

(The stimulants in in coffee, coffee, absorbed absorbed in in minute quantities. quantities. (The tea and and chocolate are are alkaloids.) alkaloids.)

red cordial, cordial, old-fashioned red ALKERMES. ALKERMES. lrrnnuis ALKERMÈS -- An An old-fashioned sweetened distilling aa sweetened by distilling once once very very popular, produced by Its cloves. Its leaf and and cloyes. nutmeg, cinnamon, bay infusion infusion of nutmeg, bay leaf name. hence its name. colour is derived from kermes, hence

plant has has aa This plant (Jack-by-the.hedge). ALLIAIRE ALLIAIRE -- This ALLARH ALLARIA (Jack-by-the-bedge). as aa condiused as condibe used flavour, and can be very pronounced garlic flavour, ment for salads. white given to aa classic classic white SAUCE - The name given ALLEMANDE SAUCE ALLEMANDE (q.v.). yolks and cream to toaveloutd sauce made by adding egg yolks a velouté (q.v.). (one for this this sauce sauce (one of the the recipe for A more modern version of A given in in the is given culinary repertoire) is the French culinary of the best best in the devoted to sauces. section devoted is not not of of German German origin. sauce is name, this this sauce Despite its its name, Despite of its its light because of so called called because it isis so to Carême Car€me it According to from espagnole espagnole sauce, sauce, which distinguish itit from and to colour, and to distinguish colom, in have originated (The latter to have originated in not seem seem to latter does does not dark. (The is dark. is Spain, either.) is an an enormous enonnous there is In the culinary repertoire, there the French culinary countries, from other other cotmtries, borrowed from designations borrowed number of of designations number origin. French origin. of entirely entirely French dishes of most of of them them describing dishes most Smtce as Sauce allemande as refer to the allemande also refer authors also to the Modem authors Modern (see SAUCE). parisienne (see SAUCE). parisienne recipe for for the recipe by giving the Car€me begins by Car6me's recipe -- Carême Carême's preparation (soo SAUCE), then de5;cnbes describes the prepara SAUCE), then VeloutC sauce sauce (see Velouté tion as follows: follows: of allemande allemande sauce sauce as of an equal Add an into aa saucepan. saucepan. Add 'Pour half the velouté velouti into half the 'Pour good chicken has been quantity of to which which has consomm6, to of good chicken consommé, (stalks and peel), and much salt salt and as as much and peel), mushrooms (stalks added aa few mushrooms added point of knife. ofaa knife. held on on the the point as can can be be held as wooden heat and and stir stir with with aa wood brisk heat Place the the sauce sauce over over aa brisk Place en from the away from the boil. Draw Draw itit away to the the boil. spoon until until itit cornes comes to about an an hour. hour. Skim simmer for for about leave to to simmer flame, coyer, cover, and and leave Skim the stirring with with the flame, stirring high flame, and replace replace on on aa high off the fat fat and off the prevent itit sticking the bottom bottom of of the sticking to to the to prevent wooden spoon spoon to wooden the perfectly cooked, sauce should should coat coat the cooked, the pan. When the sauce When perfectly pan. quite thickly; and when when poured, itit thickly; and surface of of aa spoon quite surface redcurrant jelly. as redcurrant same consistency consistency as should be be of of the same should prepare aa liaison heat and and prepare from the the heat saucepan from Remove the the saucepan Remove (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) yolks mixed mixed with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 using 44 egg egg yolks using piece of of best butter adding aa piece best butter sieve, adding cream. Pass Pass this this through through aa sieve, cream. liaison, Pour the the liaison, into small an egg, cut cut into small pieces. Pour of an the the size size of the with the carefully with velouti, stirring carefuJly little by little, into the the velouté, little by !iUle, in smoothly. smoothly. make sure that itit isis blended in sure that wooden spoon spoon to to make wooden on aa perfectly incorporated, replace the the sauce sauce on incorporated, replace When When itit isis ail all perfectly heat and and continue continue stirring. moderate moderate heat remove from the the rise, rem start to to rise, soon as as aa fewbubbles few bubbles start As ove from As soon grated nutmeg held on on the the as can can be be held nutmeg as and add add as as much much grated heat and heat pass through through aasieve.' sieve.' point of well blended, blended, pass of aa knife. knife. When When weil point

species.

denigrating culinary either denigrating aHmentation - Without either Natural alimentationgastronomic traditions, qualities or traditions, dieticians qualities betraying gastronomic or betraying of composition of in the the composition foods in encourage us to natural foods encourage us to use use natural menus. food products This means that we ought not to to consume food that have have been been subjected to to any form of chemical adulteration. Mme. Randoin defined the problem perfectly when she business upon WTote: is aa serious serious business ourselves is wrote: 'Nourishing ourselves It isis incumbent, which depends. It and bad, bad, depends. which much, much, good and we make make or or therefore, upon realise that that we one of us us to to realise upon each each one of the choice of or injudicious injudicious choice health by a judicious or break our health elements that constitute our daily diet.' different, and and The fact remains that every individual case case is different, go on, are general lines to that although we on, there there are to go we have aa few general no truly standard régimes r6gimes in in alimentation. alimentation. products wherever the Besides wherever possible, the Besides using natural products using natural best of to follow follow the the precepts of quantity, of one can can do do isis to best one the preparation, and of cooking cooking methods laid down by the and of dieticians. into Forced feeding- The introduction directly into of aliments aliments directly introduction of the "lU'l1AQ,,",lI. stomach. Artificia.l made to to can be be made substances can feedlng -- Alimentary Alimentary substances Artificial feeding gastric penetrate the gastric than the penetrate the other than by channels channels other the organism by one. medical domain. domain. to the the medical are confined confined to one. These These procedures are

(Aliments) -ALKALESCENTS (Food). ALCAUNISANTS ALcALINISANTS (Aliments) ALKALESCENTS (Food). (lime, soda, Foods that cess of soda, elements (lime, an ex excess of basic basic elements that contain contain an potassium, m'lgrleslurn). magnesium). Milk and blood are are the only alkalescents of animal origin. Milk and On are origin are most foods of vegetable origin the other other hand, hand, most On the products alkalescents cereal products of cereals, cereal the exception exception of alkalescents with with the and consume the the which we we consume vegetables of of which number of of vegetables and aa number flowers (asparagus, Brussels Brussels sprouts). sprouts). buds (asparagus, flowers (artichoke) or or buds Ali are redcurrants, etc., etc., are lemons, redcurrants, such as as lemons, All acid-tasting acid-tasting fruit such alkalescents. alkalescents. beetroot, carrots, beetroot, turnips, carrots, artichokes, turnips, Celery, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, lettuce, tomatoes, endive, lettuce, tomatoes, dandelions, endive, cucumber, cabbage, cabbage, dandelions, spinach, very strong lemons are are very strong and lemons oranges, tangerines tangerines and spinach, oranges, alkalescents; potatoes and milk, potatoes cauliflower, less less and cauliflower, fruits, milk, alkalescents; other other fruits, so. so. ----

American crocodile crocodile commonly commonly ALLIGATOR -- A A species species of of American ALLIGATOR called called cayman. gastronomic part of of the thegastronomic has already already bec become The alligator has The orne aa part the flesh eaten eaten by by the rather too musky flesh Not onJy its rather too musky world. world. Not only isis its alligator are are occasionally occasionally it, but but slices slices of of alligator natives natives who who capture capture it, served in London London and and Paris. Paris. served in feet or flippers, parts of the reptile reptile are are the thefeet or fljppers, most valued valued parts of the The most The less aquatic than most mostcrococrocoaquatic than although Jess since since the the alligator, alligator, aJthough I'amiriare prepared dl'amériThese flippers flippersare diles, lives in in water. water. These diles, also also lives TURTLE.) manner. (See TURTLE.) caine, or inin any any similar similar manner. I'indienne or caine, àd /'indienne

.. 1. . - -

VOLATILE. ALCALI - Commonly ALKALI known ALcALI VOLATIL voLArILCommonly known ALKALMLATILE. as liquid, lighter lighter than than colourless liquid, as liquid liquid ammonia. ammonia. ItIt isis aa colourless 15 t5

ALLSPICE ALLSPICE ALLSPICE. ALLSPICE. rourE TOUTE 6prcs ÉPICE - Common Corn mon name for the myrtle seed seed (Jamaica (Jarnaica pepper) pepper) and and for for cultivated cultivated nigella nigella (fennel (fennel

strips, cut them (l inch) wide, and bake them into pieces pieces 2 to 3 cm. (1

(400'F., Gas Mark 6) for 12 minutes. in the oven oyen at 200'C. 200°C. (400°F., ALMOND. of a stone fruit, particularly of ALMOND. AMANDE AMANDE - Kernel of

flower). f1ower).

ALLUMBTTES ALLUMETTES - Strips of of puff puff pastry variously variously garnished and baked baked in in the the oven. oyen. Little cakes made of of puff puff pastry and and filled or garnished garnished with with various various mixtures mixtures are also called ca lIed allumettes. allumettes. Allumettes a strip of puff Allumettes (hot (hot hors-d'auvre) hors-d'œuvre) - Roll out a pastry pastry to aa thickness thickness of of ]t cm. (+ (t inch) and about about 7 to 8 cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) wide. wide. Cover Co ver the the surface with f'rsft Fish forcemeat, forcemeat, or any any other other suggested suggested mixture mixture (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). Cut into rectangles, rectangles, place place on a baking baking tray, tray, and bake bake in in the the oven oyen at 200'C. 200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Mark 6) for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Allumettes Allumettes Ià la la perigourdine périgourdine - Coat Coat the puff puff pastry pastry with a puree of chicken chicken livers livers (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFpurée of INGS) INGS) mixed mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped truffies. truffles. Bake Bake in in the oven. oyen. Allumettes Allumettes ià la la reine reine -- Coat Coat the the puff puff pastry pastry with with aa very very fine fine mixture mixture of of minced minced breast breast of of chicken and truffies, truffles, blended blended with with thick thick Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. Allumettes Allumettes Ià la la toscane toscane - Sprinkle Sprinkle the the sheet of of puff puff pastry pastry with with grated grated Parmesan. Parmesan. Cut Cut into into strips strips and and bake bake in in the the oven. oyen. Ox Ox palate palate allumettes. allumettes. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES DE DE pALArs PALAIS DE DE BGUF BŒUF 'Remove 'Remove the the skin skin from from 22 ox palates palates previously previously cooked cooked in water. matchsticks and Cut into into strips strips the the size size of ofmatchsticks and marinate marinate in in water. Cut lemon or vinegar vinegar seasoned seasoned with aa little little salt, salt, sprigs of lemon juice juice or parsley, parsley, and and whole whole spring spring onions. onions. When When they they are are thoroughly thoroughly macerated macerated drain drain them, them, and and dip dip them them in in a batter batter made made as as follows: follows: 'Place 'Place 22 good good handfuls handfuls of of flour, f1our, I1 tablespoon tablespoon fine fine oil, oil, and ground salt, salt, into into aa basin. basin. Dilute Dilute this this gradugraduand aa little little finely finely ground ally ally with with beer beer until until the the batter batter reaches reaches the the consistency consistency of thick thick cream. cream. Dip Dip the the palate palate strips strips into into it it and and fry fry until until golden brown. Serve Serve as as hot hot as as possible.' possible.' (La (La Cuisine Cuisine bourbourgolden brown. geoise,1769, Paris) geoise, 1769, Paris)

the almond tree. are two varieties, sweet almond and tree. There are and bitter almond. almond. They come mostly from from North Africa, Africa, Provence, Italy and from California, U.S.A. ltaly and Languedoc, and More than half their weight is oil. There are two varieties of this; one is is used used principally in perfumery, perfumery, the other in

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pharmaceutics, in the manufacture manufacture of soothing emulsions. The The almond tree tree is mentioned in Genesis, and almonds were among the fruit offered to Joseph (see ALMOND, Country almond). almond).

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Almond

Aboukir almonds almonds (confectionery). (confectionery). nrrlNnEs AMANDES D'ABoUKIR D'ABOUKIR -Aboukir Petits fours, fours, made made of kirsch-flavoured, kirsch-flavoured, green-coloured Petits almond paste, paste, shaped in in the the form of of an almond, almond, and stuffed stuffed almond almond. Aboukirs Aboukirs are coated coated with gum, or with aa blanched blanched almond. with iced with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to hard hard crack crack stage (see (see SUGAR). SUGAR). iced Almond and and puff puff pastry pastry gffteau. gâteau. cArntu GÂTEAU rEUlLrerE FEUILLETÉ lux AUX Almond This gdteau gâteau isis known known under under the the name name of of Pithiviers Pithiviers AMANDES - This AMANDES(q.v.). (q.v.). Almond butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AMANDEs D'AMANDES -- Pound Pound 150 150 g. Almond (5 (5 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) freshly freshly blanched blanched almonds almonds in in aa mortar mortar until until they they are reduced reduced to to aa paste, paste, adding adding aa few few drops drops of of cold water water to to are prevent them them from from turning tuming into into oil. oil. Pound Pound in in 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., prevent cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Pass Pass through through aa very very fine fine sieve. sieve. I1 cup) This butter butter isis used used for for flavouring flavouring certain certain sauces sauces and and cream cream This soups; itit isis also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of cold cold hors d'euvre. d'œuvre. soups; PAINS ANGLlrs ANGLAIS -- Small Small dry dry cookies cookies prepreAlmond cuokies. cookies. rAINS Almond pared in in the the following following manner. manner. pared Ingredients. 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., 2 2 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 225 g. g. Ingredients. (8 oz., oz., 22 cups) cups) ground ground almonds, almonds, 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., I1 cup) cup) castor castor (8 (fine) (fine) sugar, sugar, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., It cup) cup) butter, butter, 44 eggs, eggs, halfa half a liqueur liqueur of rum. rum. glass of glass Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour onto onto the the table. table. Make Make aa well weil in in the the Method. almonds, the the sugar sugar and and the the well-softened well-softened centre and and add add the the almonds, centre butter. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into these these ingredients ingredients and and pour pour in in the the butter. rum. To To prevent prevent burning, burning, mix mix the the paste paste without without kneading kneading it it rum. too firm, firm, add add an an egg egg yolk). yolk). (if too (if into long long sausages sa usages on on the the lightly lightly floured floured Roll the the paste paste into Roll table. Cut Cut them them into into small small pieces pieces and and roll roll these these into into balls. balls. table. out on on buttered buttered trays trays (use (use two). two). Coat Coat each each Space the the balls balls out Space bail twioe twiee with with beaten beaten egg egg and and score score with with the the blade blade of of aa wet wet ball knife. Bake Bake for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in aa slow slow oven. oyen. knife. Almond cookies cookies Qemon-flavoured). (lemon-flavoured). pArNS PAINS ANcLArs ANGLAIS AU AU Almond CITRON -- Pound Pound 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., l| 1t cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds cIrRoN finely with with 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., I1 cup) cup) castor castor (fine) (fine) sugar sugar and 22 finely whole eggs. eggs. whole

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) Allumettes

Allumettes (cakes) (cakes) -- These These sweet sweet pastry pastry cakes cakes are are said said to to Allumettes have century ago ago by by aa Swiss Swiss pastry-cook pastry-cook who who have been been created created aa century

lived lived in in Dinard Dinard (Ille-et-Vilaine). (Ille-et-Vilaine). M. M. Lacam, Lacam, who who wrote wrote aa history history of ofpastry-making, pastry-making, describes describes the the invention invention as as follows: follows: 'One 'One day day Planta, Planta, the the above-mentioned above-mentioned pastry-cook, pastry-cook, had had some and did did not not know know what what to to do do with with it. it. sorne icing icing left left over over and added aa pinch pinch of offlour flour to to itit in in order order to to Having softened softened it, it, he he added Having prevent prevent the the sugar sugar from from running running in in the the heat heat ofthe of the oven, oyen, and and puffpastry. spread ititon onaa sheet sheetof ofpuff pastry. This This he he cut cutinto into little little sticks sticks spread and baked baked in in the the oven,' oven.' and Thus allumettes, allumettes, na sort sort of ofdry drypetit petitfour four which which are are now now so so Thus popular, popular, were were invented. invented. Method. Roll Roll out out some sorne puff puff pastry pastry to to the the thickness thickness of of Method. 44 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) and and cut cut itit into into strips strips 88 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) wide. wide. of Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) on on these these Spread aa thin thin layer layer of Spread 16 l6

ALMOND ALMOND Here it is in verse: verse:

Sieve Sieve 225 225 g. (8 oz., OZ., 2 2 cups) flour onto onto the table. table. Make Make a well weil in the centre centre and place place the pounded mixture mixture in it. il. Add 175 g. (6 I lemon lemon (or (6 oz., OZ., * i cup) butter and and the the grated grated rind rind of 1 orange). Knead well weil together. Divide Sprinkle the Divide the the paste paste into into walnut-sized pieces. pieces. Sprinkle table table lightly with with flour flour and and form form these these into into little little cigars, cigars, pointed pointed at each end. Place them on a buttered baking baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and score in the centre. Bake Bake in a hot oven for 8 to to l0 JO minutes. min utes. Almond Almond cream. creaOl. cnirun CRÈME D'AMANDES - Prepare Prepare ]~ litre (scant pint" 2* cups) crime (seant pînt, 2l'cups) crème pdtissiCre pâtissière in the usual manner, cool it and add to it 250 g. (9 oz.,l] OZ., l-t cups) cups) freshly blanched almonds 250 g. almonds poundod pounded to to a a smooth smooth paste paste with with 250 g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) sugar sugar and 250 250 g. (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) butter. butter. This uime This cream cream is is used used for for filling filling sweet sweet dishes. dishes. For For crème pdtissiire see CREAMS, CREA MS, French postry pastry ueam. cream. pâtissière see Almond Almond loaf. pAlN PAfN coMpLE'r COMPLET - A cake cake made of almond almond paste shaped like like a loaf. 10af. Almond LAIT D'AMANDEs D'AMAl';1)E.S - The The codex codex gives gives the Almood milk. milk. rlrr following followiog recipe recipe for almond almond milk: milk: Ingredients. 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., OZ., scant seant * ! cup) cup) blanched blanched sweet almonds, 50 cup) white 50 g. (2 oz., OZ., Ii cup) white sugar, I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) distilled water. Method. Method. Place the almonds, sugar sugar and water in a marble mortar and pound to a very smooth smooth paste. Press Press through a fine sieve. sievc. Alnond Almood nougat. nougat. NoucAT NOUGAT AUx AUX AMANDTs AMANDES - Dry Dry 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4l 4t cups) blanched, chopped almonds in the the oven. oyen. Place Place them them in a copper bowl bowl in which which 400 g. (14 oz.,l| oz., li cups) cups) sugar, flavoured ftavoured with wîth a a squeeze squeeze of lemon juice, juice, has has been boiled to to a pale pale caramel. Stir Stif this mixture with a spatula. While Whîle the the mixture mixture is is still still hot, hot, pour pour it it into into variously variously shaped greased moulds. moulds. Alternatively, the the nougat nougat may may be spread thinly thinly on an oiled oîled marble slab and cut eut into different different shapes. shapes. Nougat prepared in this way may be he shaped shapcd into bowls, baskets, clogs c10gs and other other objects. objects. Almond Almood paste I. pAtE PÂTE n',q,Ira.l,NDEs D'AMANDES - Crush Crush 450 g. g. (l (1 lb., 3 cups) blanched almonds and place them in a mortar with the the selected selected flavouring flavouring (vanilla (vanilla sugar sugar or or liqueur). liqueur). Cook 900 900 g. (2 lb., 4 cups) cups) sugar sugar to to hard hard crack stage stage (see SUGAR). SUGA R). Qlb.,4 Add Add this gradually to the the almonds, almonds, pounding vigorously vigorously until well weil mixed. Almond 475 g. Almood paste paste II. n. pArE PÂTE D'^luANDEs D'AMANDES - Ingredients. 475 (17 OZ., o2.,3| 3t cups) cups) sweet almonds, 25 g. (1 (1 oz., OZ., 3 tablespoons) bitter (1 teaspoon) teaspoon) gum arabic, arabic, 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., OZ., bitter almonds, almonds., 5 g. (l scant seant cup) icing sugar, I1 egg white, juie juice of I1 lemon. Method. Method. Pound Pound the almonds almonds with the the lemon lemon juioe juice and pass pass through through a fine fine strainer. strainer. Put into a copper pan pan with the icing icing sugar and egg egg white. Dry this this mixture mixture gently over over heat, heat, stirring all ail the the time. Add the the gum arabic dissolved dissolved in in a little water. To To be he perfect this this paste paste must must not be be sticky. It Il is used used as an abaisse abaisse (q.v.) (q.v.) in various various sweet dishes and petits petits fours. fours. Almond Almood praline. rRALIN PRALIN Aux AUX AMANDnS AMANDES - Melt Melt 450 g. (l (l lb., lb., 2 cups) castor (fine) sugar slowly slowly in a copper pan. Cook it until until it reaches reaches the the degree of of light caramel, 160'C. 160°C. (320"F.). (320"F .). Add to lb., 33 cups) to this sugar sugar 450 g. (l (lIb., cups) raw unblanched unblanched wellwelldried almonds. Tip all ail this this mixture mixture onto an an oiled marble marbre slab. Allow to cool. Pound the the mixture in in a mortar. Pass Pass it through through a fine sieve. Keep Keep this this dry almond almond powder powder in tins with well-fitting well-fitting lids. Almond Almond tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES AMANDTNES AMANDINE.<; -- The recipe recipe for these these very delicate tartlets tartlets was was set set to to rhyme rhyme by by Edmond Edmond Rostand in Cyrarn Cyrano de de Bergerac. Bergerac. The The recipe recipe itself itself istS attributed to to Ragueneau, Ragueneau, the the famous famous seventeenth-century pastrypastrycook.

Comment on fail Comment on fait les tartelettes amandines amandines Battez, Battez, pour pour qu'ils soient mousseux,

Quelques eufs; œufs: Quelques Incorporez d à leur mousse mousse jut de cCdrat Un Un jus cédrat choisi; choisi: Versez-y Un bon lait d'amande d'amanck douce; douce; Mettez de ck la la pdte pâte àdflan flan Dans le flanc flanc Dalll Ie De moules dà tartelette; tartelette: D'tm D'un doigt doigt preste preste abricotez abricotez Les Les cdtds; côtés; Versez Versez goutte dà gouttelette Votre en ces puits, puis puis Votre mousse mousse m Que ces puits puits Que Passent anfour, au four, et, blondines, blondines, Sortant en gais troupelets, troupelets, Ce sont SOn! les t e le t t e s amandine s. Tar Tartelettes amandines. Beat Beat your eggs, the yolk and white

Very light; their creamy creamy fluff Mingle with their Drops of of lime lime juice, juice, cool and green; greeo; Then Theo pour in Milk of of almonds, almonds. just just enough. enough. Dainty Dainty patty pans, pans, embraced embraced In puff-paste -Have these these ready within reach; With With your thumb thumb and and finger, pinch pinch Half Half an inch inch the edge of of each -Up around the Into Into these, these, a score or more, Slowly Slowly pour pour All Ail your store store of of custard; custard; so so Take them, them, bake them golden-brown golden-brown -Now sit down! .... .. Almond Almond tartlets!i tartlets!· *• From Cyruno de Bergerac From Brian Brian Hooker's Hooker's translationof translation o/Cyrano Bergerac by by Ehnond EdmoruJ Rostand. Heinemann in association association with with Allen & tlnwin. Unwin. Ros/and. Published Published by Heinemann AMANDfS ,ltr{tnss AMÈRES - Bitter almonds almonds owe Bitter almonds. AMANDES bitterness to to the relatively relatively high amount amount of of prussic acid their bitterness contain. They should therefore therefore be used in moderation. moderation. they contain. These almonds almonds are employed in pdtisserie pâtisserie for flavouring fiavouring icings and and fillings; and and in confectionery. confectionery. They They are are not not used used as icings dessert fruit. The oil obtained obUlÎned from from them is is poisonous. poisonous. Bhnctd Blanched almonds. almonds. AMANDES AMANDES uoNoEss MONDÉES - Drid Dried almonds almonds from which which the the skin skin has has been been removed. removed. Proceed in in the from following following manner. manner. Put Put the almonds almonds into into a sieve; sieve; plunge plunge into into aa saucepan saucepan of of boiling boiling water water and immediately lmmediately draw the saucepan to to the the side of of the stove. Drain Drain the the almonds, a few few at at a time, lime, and aod skin skin thern them as soon as you see see that the the skin comes cornes off when when pressed with the If Drop them them into into cold water, water, drain and pat pat dry. If fingers. Drop t hey are to 10 be kept, kept, scatter sca tter on a sieve or fine grill and dry they a tin or jar jar with a thorougbly in a slow slow oven. oyen. Store Store in a thoroughly well-fitting well-fitting lid. lid. Keep Keep in a dry place. place. Chopped Chopped elmonds. almonds. AMANDES AMANDES HAcHEEs HACHÉES -- These are are blanched blanched almonds almonds roughly roughly or finely chopped depending upon upon how how they are are to to be he employed. employed. Variously Coloured almonds. a Lmonds. AMANDES AMANDES cot.oRfEs COLORÉES Variously Coloured coloured shredded shredded and and ground ground almonds almonds are are used use<:! for for colourcolourcoloured ing Îng nougat nougat and for for sprinkling sprinkling on iced iced petits petits fours, fours, cakes, cakes, biscuits biscuits (cookies) (eookies) and sweet dishes. dishes.

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ALMONDS. EARTH ALMONDS, are particularly etc. Verdun filbert paste, etc. Verdun sugared almonds are particularly esteemed. DoucEs -- Sweet almonds are in almonds. AMANDES DOUCES Sweet almollds. great demand and confectionery; demand for pdtisserie confectionery; ail all Spanish gœat pâtisserie and and Italian almonds are sweet. and esteemed as dessert fruit Green sweet almonds are greatly esteemed and are consumed consumed in great quantities. They are less oily and and that reason easier to digest digest than dryalmonds. dry.almonds. for that Whole 1Ilmonds. AMANDEs ENTIÈRES ENTTiRES .. almonds AMANDES When a Wbole a recipe in - When pdtisserie and confectionery confectionery calls calls for certain amount amount of pâtisserie and for aa certain whole almonds, this means blanched almonds and not raw always referred to as raw, meaning with almonds, which are always the thin brown skin left on.

appropriate to the colour may be added' added: thus Flavouring appropriate pink scented with raspberryessence, raspberry essence; mauve flavoured pink may be scented with wi th essence of violets. (Indian almond ahrod (lndian almond tree). uomum. - This Country 1Iimond tuee). BADAMIER Country in Asia. tree, wruch which is is also also ca called tree, lied catappa, grows generally in pleasant taste, from wruch oil an oil fruit is is an an almond, of pleasant which an The fmit somewhat similar to olive oil is extracted. produces resinous country almond produces and Another species of country resinous and aromatic matter, matter, aa kind kind of gum which is is used used in in aromatic gum benzoin, which confectionery. confectionery. EN ofs Dic€d aImonds. almonds. AMANDEs Diced AMANDES EN DÉS - Blanched, Blanched, halved as required. They are or small dice as almonds cut into large or and in pdtisserie. used for sweet dishes and pâtisserie. This is AMANDEs BRUTES BRUTEs -- This the name almonds. AMANDES Raw 1Ilmonds. is the name given almonds which which have tn pdtisserie and confectionery confectionery to in pâtisserie and to almonds are left unof their hard shells but simply been taken takeh out of simply hard shells but are skinned. Provengal almonds are the the most sought The hard-shelled Provençal after for pdtisserie. after pâtisserie. But medium-sized almonds grown in the plains are also in great demand. These often contain quite a high proportion and are are the ones prehigh proportion of bitter bitter almonds and the ones for ma making ferred for king almond paste. biraudc almonds comprise comprise a smaller The broad and fleshy béraude percentage percentage of bitter almonds and are generally shredded or ground and and used ground used for sprinkling on petits petits fours, fours, biscuits and sweet dishes. almonds are irregular in shape and very small. Tournefort a/monds Because excellent flavour, they are much in demand Because of their theu excellent for the confection confection of almond paste. cnIrrfss -- Shred Shed the almonds alnonds. Roasted almolld Roasled .... AMANDES GRILLÉES and dry thern them in the oven until they turn pale golden. AMANDEs SALÉES sALfEs almonds. AMANDES Salted almollds. - Toast sweet blanched almonds in the oven until their colour changes changes to pale yellow, almonds their colour with a pinch ofsaffron, of saffron, red pepper Sprinkle with turning once. Sprinkle tuming pepper and golden brown. Drain on a cloth ginger then fry in butter butter until golden ginger of and cool. Finally, coat the almonds with a clear solution of gum arabic and sprinkle sprinkle with fine salt. are used alnonds. AMANDES nrrnfrs Shredded almonds. EFFILÉES .. These are used a great deal Shredded and deal in pdtisserie confectionery. Shredded grcat pâtisserie and in confectionery. roasted almonds are used for coating and garnishing sweet (white) almonds are are used shredded, unroasted (white) dishes; dishes; shredded, used for of cooked nougat, confection of coatinEpetitsfours, coating petits fours, and in the confection Mont6limar nougat, Montélimar nougat, petits petils fours, fours, meringues, meringues, almond slices, etc. There are several very efficient implements for shredding equally operation can be performed although the operation almonds, although perforrncd equally lengthwise and each The almonds should be cut lengthwise well by hand. Thealmondsshould weil becut This shou should shredded into twelve to one shredded Id be one to fifteen fifteen pieces. This and before after blanching done immediately irnroediately arter blancrung and berore the the almonds laid on on aa metal they should be are dried. dried. After are Aner shredding they be laid slow oven or orin sheetand sheet and dried dried in aavery very slow in awarmingcupboard. a warrning cupboard. During the drying drying process they should be turned three three times a Store in hermetically hermetically sealed tins. a day. Store onic.cfEs coated with hard dnonds DRAGÉES - Almonds coated Sugared almollds. (not, strictly strictly speaking, speaking, exactly sugar. Sugared almonds (not, exactly as we coated with know know thern them today, today, but but nevertheless nevertheless coated with sugar or It is said that around around the year honey) have aa long history. Il Roman family, a patrician Roman 177 t.c. 177 B.C. a farnily, the the illustrious Fabius of distributing sugared almonds to the family, had the habit of populace as a token of occasion of ofaa birth ofrejoicing rejoicing on the occasion birlh or of So il it is evident that the custom marriage in in the the family. farnily. So custorn of presenting at the of aa birth almonds at celebration of sugared almonds presenttng sugared the celebration goes goes back a very long way. It is is difficult to make make sugared almonds almonds at home, home, and hardly nec€ssary, necessary, considering the excellent excellent sugared almonds manuare made Some are factured commercially. Some factured commercially. made from from windfall wÎndfall almonds; almonds; others with hazelnuts or pistachios; pistachios; others again almond or chocolate, almond filled with drops of of liqueur, chocolate, few drops filled with a a few

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AMANDEs DE These are EARTH. AMANDES rERRE ..- These ALMONDS, EARTH. DE TERRE grow in marshy ground ground in countries cyperus tubers, tubers, which grow and tempera temperate climates. with hot and te c1imates. These almond-shaped atnond-shaped tubers outside, very are brown These tubers are brown outside, white inside inside and extremely starchy. They can either be eaten (like hazelnuts) or cooked (like chestnuts). kind of raw (Iike chestnuts). A kind raw flour is made from them.

ALOCASIA -- Plant indigenous to the Indies of which there ALOCASIA known species. important of are about fifteen species. The The most arc fifteen known most important these, a native of Ceylon, has spread throughout of the ofCeylon, throughout most of as a Indian subcontinent. There its il, voluminous voluminous roots serve as prolonged period of cooking. cooking. food, but only after a prolonged

ALOE. Aloiis ALOÈS - A genus of plants plants belonging to the family purgative gum plant aa purgative Liliaceae. From of this From the the leaves of this plant Liliaceae. resin resin is extracted. Certain species found in Vietnam Vietnam produce an edible starch. starch. ALPIIEUS. ALPHÉE erpruu-A shellfish with a slightly slightly corn· comALPHEUS. -- A kind of shellfish Some species species pressed body body resembling that of the crayfish. Sorne are found in ail all French coastal coastal waters; others are peculiar peculiar to the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Sorne are confined to the seas Some varieties are of Asia, Australia and America. America. quality to the spiny Although spiny lobster, this shellshellAlthough inferior in quality fish fish is is quite highly esteemed. All Ail methods of preparation given for lobster lobstcr are applicable to it. il. stocked with ALSACE ALSACEAisatian larder larder is is well weIl stocked with numerous - The Alsatian of good fare excellent foods. Alsace and excellent Alsace has a long tradition tradition of surprising that 50 not surprising that its its gastronomic gastronomie repertoire repertoire is is a so it is is not lengthy one, full of succulent succulent dishes. source of of unendColmar come that source From From Strasbourg and Colmar gourmands, the and terrines and ing delight to ing delight to gourmands, the magnificent magnificent terrines i! thcir gras truffés, pdtis truffis, which rival in pâtés de foies gras their delicacy even of France France (see PÂTÉS, PATES, TERRlNES). TERRINES). those of of the south-west south-west of found delectable charcuteries The most delectable charcuteries in France are also found in and thanks to the quality of the pork in Alsace, and pork shoulder, saveloy and sausages, the smoked bacon, save/oy and sausages, the choucroute choucroute prepared àd la mode strasbourgeolse strasbourgeoise is more delicious than than any others. others. andfoies gras truffis, But choucroute truffés, excellent excellent though though they cllOucroute andfoies specialities. be, are not the only specialities. Pork is particularly Meat in this of good quality. Pork particularly trus region is of ('the noble pig') holds a place of high tasty. Seigneur cochon ('the honour in Alsace. Alsace. The The Benedictine monks were the first to recognise the advantages advantages of ofpig recognise pig breeding. were the first to keep fish 'The Benedictine monks, who were 5sh ponds, thus thus laying the the basis basis of pisciculture, pisciculture, were were also the advantages of pig first first to to recognise recognise the the advantages pig breeding,' breeding,' writes Paul Bouillard in an essay on the cookery of of Alsace. Alsace. In ln fact, firm-textured, delicately the the region region produces produces firm·textured, delicately flavoured, flavoured, admirable admirable pork. The Strasbourg pork butchers, butchers, masters masters of their art, transform it into a number of preparations preparations which which are not only enjoyed of Alsace cnjoyed by the gourmets of Alsace but in all ail the best Paris restaurants.

l8 18

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It Alsatian Alsatian geese geese are famous for the delicacy of their flesh. It geese that is from from these these specially fattened geese that the magnificent magnmcent Alsace transmattres de cuisine in Alsace liver liver is obtained which the maîtres and terrines. celebrated pdtes form so skilfully skilfully into the celebrated fonn pâtés and good. And good and and taste good. The vegetables of Alsace look good produce delectable fruit of delectable fruit of which of Alsace produce the the orchards orchards of

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plums, some, such as quetsches (Alsace plums) and mirabelle plums, sorne, fresh but are also used used to make are not only delicious to eat fresh (see SPIRITS). not be The list list wou would noted eaux-de-vie eaux-de-vie (see SPIRITS). The noted Id not and the the raspthe cherries cherries and complete without without mentioning the complete make well-known liqueurs. which are are distilled to to make berries, berries, which does not know fish are renowned, too. Who does The freshwater fish trout,t, the craysalmon, the river trou of the Rhine salmon, the succulence of and the eels, eels, tench tench and the Vosges; Vosges; the fish from from the the streams streams of of the fish vin d'Alsace d'Alsace are are au vin matelotes au from which which delicious matelotes bream from prepared prepared ? no means menWith such raw materials -- and we have by no and cordon cordon bleu mattes de de cuisine cuisine and all of them -- the the maîtres tioned aIl Alsace well. In fact the Alsace Alsace cannot help but cook weil. of Alsace chefs of meal is aa perfect epicurean epicurean symphony. meal Strasbourg and and de Strasbourg magnificent choucroute chouuoute de the magnificent Besides the Besides principal pdti gras aux the principal are the aix truffes truffes the the following are pâté de foie gras of the the region's representative of Alsace, dishes truly truly representative dishes of Alsace, superb cuisine: potee : matelote specialities -- Aisatian Alsatian potée: matelote of of fish de Culinary specialities .fish de carp àd Alsatian wine'; wine'; stuffed carp in Alsatian I'Ill; crayfish crayfish'cardinalised l'Ill; 'cardinalised in veal; hot hot meat breast of of veal; crayfish flan; l'alsacienne; crayfish tuffed breast flan; sstuffed noodles ; pdti ; anion of hare hare with with noodles; zewelewai; civet civet of onion flan or zewelewal; pâté; flan or kind of estouffade estouffade beckenoffe, aa kind hare àd la la crème; crime; beckenoffe, saddle of hare pork and potatoes, which which must must be and potatoes, made with with mutton, mutton, pork made justify its geese àd name; fat its name; in aa baker's to justify cooked cooked in baker's oyen oven to fat geese pickled pork with pickled shoulder of of pork i.e., shoulder I'alsacienne;the l'alsaCienne; the schifela, i.e., pastry; fricassée of chicken chicken àd in pastry; turnips; ham ham cooked cooked in turnips; fricassde of goose; turkey calfs turkey with with chestnuts; chestnuts; calf's salmis of of goose; I'alsacienne; salmis l'alsacienne; pork partridges;kalerei, of partridges; of pork liverfritters; liver fritters; chartreuse kalerel, aakind kind of chartreuse of puddings, saveloys and sausages; sausages; saveloys and brawn; Strasbourg Strasbourg black brawn; black puddings, goret' ; red with pig 'à 'd la peau de red cabbage cabbage with de goret'; stufed sucking sucking pig la peau stuffed rabi àd la potatoes àd l'alsacienne; la crème; crime; kohl rabi I'alsacienne; kohl chestnuts; potatoes chestnuts;

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Gastronomie map of Alsace Gastronomic map of Alsace $itirj:iifl'fiii,=''

(pork butcher:y AJsatian produce): Alsatian charcuterie charcuterie (pork butchery produce): (Schinkenwurst); (knackwurst);2. l.l. Little usages (knackwurst); 2. Saveloys; 4. Metwurst; 6. Ham Ham sausage pudding with Little Strasbourg with tangue; sausage (Schinkenwurst); Black pudding Strasbourg sa sausages Saveloys; 3. 3. Thann Thann sausage; Metwurstl 5.5. Black tongue;6. sausage;4. in 7.7. Schwartenroagen; Bierwurst; 9. Veal roll; roll; 10. 10. Schwartwurst; I l. Strasbourg 12. Mulhouse 13. Lyon Lyon type type sausageroade sausage made in Schwartenmagen; 8. 8. Bierwurst; 9. Veal Schwartwurst; Il. Strasbourg sausage; sausage; 12. Mulhouse sausage; sausage; J3. gras Strasbourg; 14. Leberwurst; Leberwurst; 15. 15. Tongue Tongue roll roli with with truffies; 16. Veal Veal roll roll with with foie foie gras Strasbourg; 14. trufres; 16.

19 19

(A L') ALSACIENNE (À L') ALSACIENNE

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noodles à d l'alsacienne; l'alsacienne; knepfle. knepfle,a fritter; mi/chstriwle; kind of of fritter; milchstriwle; noodles a kind bretzel; schenkele; schenkele; beignets (carnival beignets de de carnaval carnaval (car fritters); bretzel; nival fritters); various types· types of of Aisatian Alsatian tarts; tarts; kougloff kougloff or or kugelhopf; kugelhopf; various Jewish kouguel; kouguel ; bi/berry kafeekrantz, etc. bilberry flan; etc. Jewish flan ; kaffeekrantz, Winos -- To To accompany good things, accompany ail all these these good things, Alsace Alsace WiDes produceq in in addition addition to to aa delicious delicious beer, some rare rare and and beer, sorne produces, exceptional wines, which which are are mostly white. white. The decree decree of of 33 October 1962 created October 1962 created the the appellation appellation The 'Alsace' or or 'vin 'vin d'Alsace'. d'Alsace'. This This appellation appellation can include the can include 'Alsace' the grape. In variety of grape. In fact, fact, Alsace Alsace wine wine does does not not usually usually bear bear variety the na name of the the locality locality from from which which itit cornes, comes, but but of of the the me of the grape used production. used in in its its production. variety of grape Cipaga nobles. nobles. Sylvaner. Sylvaner. A fresh, fruit fruityy wine, wine, best drunk Cépages best drunk young. Excellent accompaniment for for sauerkraut sauerkraut and and charcharyoung. cuterie. Muscat. A A wine wine with with aa distinct aromatic aromatic Bavour flavour tbat that is is Muscat. an apéritif ap'6ritif or dessert dessert wine. generally served as an (or 'Alsace Tokay'): gris (or Tokay'): Quite full-bodied wine wine Pinot gris Quite aa full-bodied with aa delicate bouquet. (or Clevner): Pinot blanc blanc (or A fresh, freslr" rather rather sharp Clevner): A Pinot sharp wine, often used used for blending. Gewiirztraminer and Traminer. Traminer. The The wine from from tbis grape this grape Gewürztrarniner is very fruit fruity, distinctive flavour, flavour, and and is is often drunk y, with aa distinctive well weil matured. dty, very elegant elegant wine, full of vigour. vigour. Perfect Riesling. A dry, for fish, goes well seafood. It It also also goes well with with sauerfish, shellfish and seafood. kraut.

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Wine Wine map map of of Alsace Alsace

Cépages Cdpages courants. Chasselas and Kniperlé. Kniperl6. Carafe Chasselas and Carafe wines. wines. The The wine resulting from from the the blending of of cépages cipages nobles nobles and and cépages cipages courants is is called called Zwicker. Zwicket Edelzwicker Edelzwicker is is the name the name given to aa b1end blend of cépages cipages nobles. nobles. Red wines wines and and Rosés. Rosis. The The red red wines wines are made from from the are made the black Pinot grape, grape, rosé ros6 from the grey Pinot grape. Producthe grey Pinot grape. Production is poor compared to that of of white wine. wine. The The name of of the the locality locality often grape. Among often accompanies accompanies that that of of the the grape. Among the best known are Ammerschwihr, Ammerschwihr, Barr, Barr, Eguisheim, KaysersKaysersberg, berg, Kientzheim, Kientzheim, Mittelwihr, Ribeauvillé, Ribeauvill6, Riquewihr. Riquewihr. ALSACIENNE ALSACIENNE (A L') -- Definition app1ying applying to ro an an enormous enonnous number of preparations. The predominating predominating ingredients of of dishes prepared are dishes thus are sauerkraut, ham thus prepared ham and and Strasbourg Strasbourg sausage. sausage.

ALUM. ALUN -- A double sulphate sulphate of aluminium and and potassium or ammonium; an an astringent-tasting astringent-tasting salt. salt. Alum was once used used in confectionery confectionery to set the co10ur to set colour of of pâtisserie to crystallised fruits, fruits, and and in in pdtisserie prevent egg to prevent egg whites whi1e being whisked. This from curdling while from is now This is now forbidden forbidden by law. ALUMINlTE -A - A kind kind of alumina-based fireproof ALLTMINITE of alumina-based fireproof porcelain. Ali porcelains, in fact, fact, are based on All are based silicates, but alumina silicates, on alumina but higher content content of aluminite has a higher of alumina alumina (oxide of of alumialumiis consequently much tougher than nium) and is than other other porceresistance to heat. lains and possesses a far greater resistance to heat.

Vines Vines in in Alsace Alsace (French (French Government Governmenr Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office)

20 20

AMBIGU

kitchen utensils: utensils : Aluminite kitchen L Gratin dish: 2. Saucepan: Shell; 10. Soufflé SouffiE dish dish; 2. 4. Sauté dish; 7. 7. Plate; Plate; 8. 8. Rarnekin: Ramekin; 9. 9. Shell; Saucepan; 3. 3. Coffee fiIter; 1. 6lter: 4. Saut6 pan; 5. 5. Vegetable steamer; 6. 6. Snail dish;

ALUMINIUM -- Ductile, Ductile, resistant metal looks like metal that that looks

positively ecstatic outpouring, sings the praises Savarin, in a positively of the restorative powers of ambergris chocolate. This product, which which was was formerly uSed in confectionery This used in confectionery perfumery. used as ila fixative in perfümery. and in cookery, is today used In Miditation Z1 Brillat-Savarin refers to ln Méditation VI Brillat-Savarin refers to ambergris 'I know that as the africted': '1 chocolate as the 'chocolate of the the affiicted': glorious memory, constantly Marshal Richelieu, of glorious Marshal constantly chewed get one as for myself, when 1 I get one of those ambergris lozenges; lozenges; as felt, or when one's days when the weight of age makes itself itself feh, sluggish, 1 I add a knob of of ambergris ambergris the size of of a bean, mind is sluggish, pounded with sugar, sugar, to to aa strong strong cup cup of chocolate, and and 1I poundedwith always find find my condition improves improves marvellously. marvellously. The my condition always flow with ease; burden of life becomes lighter, thoughts ftow ease, and do not suffer from insomnia, which would have have been 1I do bden the invariable result of a cup of coffee taken for the same purinvariable pose.' highly praises the power of Brillat-Savarin also bighly of ambergris in his Magl'stires Magistères Restaurants. Restaurants.

lightness. silver, sil ver, its principal characteristic being its extreme extreme lightness. of aluminium have led to its use The numerous properties of marmites, manufacture of of kitchen utensils: saucepans, marmites, in the manufacture stewpans, etc. previously etc. Conclusive Conclusive experiments experiments were were previously stewpans, action various liquids used carried out to determine the action used in preparation of food had on aluminium. food had the preparation It has been proved that there is little or no reaction with pure a1cohol, red or or white white wine, wine, brandy, red brandy, pure alcohol, coffee coffee or or tea beer, 5 per cent cent solution of tartaric, acetic, poured in hot, beer, acids, 3 per cent solution of butyric citric, lactic or phenic acids, per cent solution 0'2 percent solution ofsalicylic of salicylic acid. Nitric acid, on the acid, 0·2 vigorously. other hand, attacks the metal vigorously.

AMANITA. AMANITE -- A genus of fungi of AMANIT A. AMANITE of the agaric agaric group. of amanitae, amanitae, sorne some edible, others There are numerous species of is, therefore, very important and even deadly. It is, dangerous and MUSHROOMS.) to learn to recognise them. (See MUSHROOMS.)

plant is AMARANTH. This plant ,lMA.n.ANrp -- This is cultivated cultivated in AMARANTH. AMARANTE for the beauty of its ftowers. flowers. In In Italy, howFrance mainly for leaves of one variety variety of amaranth are eaten, ever, the tender leaves prepared rather like spinach. spinach.

(Cold collation) gives the collation) -- Trévoux AMBIGU (Cold Trivoux Dictionary gives 'A mixed following definition: at which definition: 'A mixed collation collation at which meat following such a manner manner as to make one and fruit are served together together in such wonder whether it is a simple collation or a supper.' In other dictionaries same dictionaries the ln the sa me definition, or or nearly nearly the same, sa me, is given with the proviso that the dishes served at this of meal must be cold. kind of lnhis de cuisine, cuisine, Joseph Favre says ln his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel universel de that the word ambigu is applicable to a meal which is taken dinner. or between dinner and lunbetween luncheon and dinner,

Nvrsns GRIS cRIs -- An intestinal intestinal concretion concretion of of the AMBERGRIS. AMBRE sperm whale found found ftoating floating on the Far Eastern Eastern sperm the surface of Far wax-like substance, dotted with yellow and black seas. It is a wax-like spots, and possessing a strong and pleasant smel!. spots, sed in smell. U Used ancient pharmacopoeia as as an an antispasmodic, itit was also ancient wasalso Brillatcredited with aphrodisiac and restorative properties. Brillat-

Amanitae

2l 21

AMBROSIA AMBROSIA found in The species in Asia Asia and and Africa. Africa. The known under found species known under the the of Amomum Amomwn cardamon name of scientific scientific name cardamon produces capsular capsular fruit often called called cardamom, cardamom, which which are are used as as aa substitute substitute for real real cardamom. cardamom. quantities of Considerable Considerable quantities of amomum amomum are are exported exported from from Siam, Siam, Singapore Singapore and and Saigon. In France France the Saigon. In the seeds seeds are are grains of variously variously known known as as grains of paradise, Malaguetta Malaguetta pepper, grains, and Guinea are occasionally used as aa sulJstlltulte substitute for Guinea grains, and are used as pepper.

cheon, and at which ail all the dishes, the sweets and the dessert, cheon, are served at the same lime. time. This name name should apply specifically to an evening evening meal, to an between midnight and or supper served between and two o'dock in the o'clock in the (evening party). morning, in the course of a soirée morning, soirie (evening AMBROSIE -- A from the the made from A kind kind of of tea tea made AMBROSIA. tr,rnnosrE

ambrosier, a bush with sweet-smelling leaves. It It flowers and and leaves. sweet-smelling flowers arnbrosier, said to have have restorative powers, especially for stomachic restorative powers, especially for is said complaints. complaints.

AMOUAMOU - Béarnaise B6arnaise cheese cheese consumed consumod from from October October to to May. May.

AMÉLÉON -- A A French for aa French word used in in Normandy for word used AMELEON

AMOURETTES AMOURETTES -- Culinary name for Culinary name for the the spinal spinal marrow marrow of of oxen amourettes, very delicate oxen and and calves. calves. Calves' delicate in in flavour, flavour, Calves'amourettes, pies, vol-au-vent, are patties, hot are used as as aa filling filling for for patties, hot timbales,pies, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. Amourettes prepared as Amourettes can can also also be be prepared as an an independent independent dish, dish, made made into into croquettes, and various croquettes, and various fried fried dishes, dishes, etc. etc. Ives' and Most Most of and lambs' lambs' brains of th..:: the recipes recipes given for for ca brains calves' which amourettes amourettes rather resemble resemble -- can be applied to to them. them. can be No first No matter how how amourettes amourettes are are prepared, they should should first be (q.v.) in the same in court-bouillon way as as calves' be boiled court-bouillon (q.v.) same way calves' boiled in (see OFFAL and brains (see and lambs' lambs'brains MEATS). OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS).

particular kind of of cider.

AMERICA -- Wines (See WINES, WINES, INTERand cuisine. cuisine. (See Wines and COOKERY.) NATIONAL COOKERY.) AMÉRICAINE (À given to various methods of (A V) of L) -- Name given anAEnfClINE

preparing meat, prethese prevegetables. Among Among these preparing fish, eggs, eggs, vegetables. meat, fish, the best-known (see I'amiricaine (see is Lobster Lobster àd l'américaine parations the best-known is LOBSTER). AMERICAN P ARTRIDGE. COLIN partridge Bird of the partridge PARTRIDGE. corrN -- Bird of the quail, very family, aa little larger than in America. than quail, very common in The (bob-white, quail (bob-white, The colin colin loui, loui, also also called called American Americmt quail Virginian colin) is highly esteemed Virginiot esteemed in in the United States, States, and and the United is now established established in England. (For its culinary preparation, see see QUAIL, QUAIL, PARTRIDGE.)

AMPHICLES More AMPHICLES -- Celebrated cook of ancient Greece. Greece. More Celebrated cook of ancient than his colleagues of of that that distant distant epoch, epoch, Amphicles Amphicles than any any of of his deserves alone recognised recognised He alone from oblivion. oblivion. He deserves to to oe be rescued from ail ostentatious in in the the all that and foolishly foolishly ostentatious that was wa3 barbarous barbarous and culinary and in in his time, his teachings, teachings, and time, and methods of of his and in in bis culinary methods - practice, practice, he them aa task of he devoted himself to to the of bringing bringing to to them devoted himself the task saner prepare nature's nature's products liked to saner logic. 'Amphicles liked to prepare simply. spit and and served underundersimply. He had a hare cooked cooked on on aa spit done fennel. nothing but sprinkling of of coriander coriander and and fenne!. done with with nothing but aa sprinkling He pig should sucking pig simply be be boiled boiled He maintained maintained that that aa sucking should simply and leaves sage. He He wrapped larks larks in in vine vine leaves and placed on on aa bed bed of of sage. and among the the them among and red mullet mullet in in fig fig leaves leaves and and cooked them cinders. No-one knew knew better cinders. No-one better than than he he how how to to harmonise harmonise aa piece piece of disapproved more aromatic. No-one No-one disapproved of flesh flesh and and an an aromatic. more than t he did did of the flavour flavour of of aa mea meat than he of the the practice of disguising the or vegetable. This friend friend of of Theotime even even used spic€s used spices or vegetable. sparingly predecessors îndiscrimisparingly in in his his sauces. sauces. Where Where bis his predecessors indiscriminately nately mixed mixed the' the- most most iIl-assorted ill-assorted condiments condiments together, together, where lavished twenty where his his emulators, emulators, whimsical whimsical to to excess, lavished twenty ingredients single dish, dish, Amphicles himself to to ingredients on on aa single Amphicles confined himself two three.' two or or three.' Our maltre de de cuisine cuisine Our reason reason for for dwelling dwelling on on this this ancient ancient maître isis sim ply to practitioners of simply to remind remind more more modern modern practitioners of the the art art that lie in that cuIinary culinary merit merit does does not ndt necessarily necessarily lie in the the extravaextravagance gance of of the the trimmings. trimmings.

AMIENS -- This town in Picardy is gastronomically AMIENS is famous, famous, gastronomically speaking, its andouillettes speaking, for its duck pie, its andouillettes and and its macaroons. macaroons. AMIRAL (A L') -- Name given to fish fish dishes. dishes. The The charactercharacterAMIRAL (À istic garnish, composed of dishes is is their their garnish, composed of these dishes istic feature of these fried mussels which and truffies, trufres, to which mussels and and oysters, oysters, crayfish tails and peeled peeled mushrooms are are added. added. The The sauce is aa Normandy sauce is sauce (see SAUCE) (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see sauce (see BUTTER). BUTTER). AMMAPERDRIX partridge A variety variety of of the AMMAPERDRD( -- A the European European partridge found It only in Algeria, Algeria, Egypt, Israel, India India and and Persia. Persia. It only Egypt, Israel, found in differs (it isis smaller) red-legged partridge in from the in its its size size (it smaller) the red-legged differs from and likes in the absence of The ammaperdrix ammaperdrix likes the absence of aa tarsal and in tarsal spur. spur. The hiding partridge, feeds places and, like the French partridge, hiding in in rocky and, like feeds rocky places the French on plants resembling wild thyme. They are are and wild on plants resembling thyme thyme and thyme. They sometimes Mediterfields on on the wandering about about the sometimes found found wandering the fields the Mediterranean given of France. France. Ail All methods methods of of preparation given ranean coast coast of for (q.v.) can partridge (g.v.) applied to for partridge can he to this be applied this bird. AMMOCOETE. - A fish lamprey, fish resembling resembling the the lamprey, errarrlocire-A AMMOCOETE. AMMOCÈTE found the Seine. Seine. mouth of of the found in in the the mouth The (q.v.) and given for preparation given for eel eel (q.v.) and The methods methods of of preparation lamprey applicable to fish. lamprey (q.v.) are are applicable to this this fish.

AMPHITRYON (tlost) -- Authors gastronomical books Authors of of gastronomical books AMPHITRYON (Host) (such (such as Reynidre, Berchoux, Berchoux, as Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, Grimod Grimod de de lala Reynière, Monselet Monselet and and Chavette) and most dictionaries define define the the most dictionaries Chavette) and word 'the one as 'the whom we we dine'. According to to Molière: Molidre: word as one with with whom dine'. According 'The 'The real real Amphitryon Amphitryon Is st with Is mine mine ho host with whom whom 1I dîne.' dine.'

AMMONlA. gaseous compound of nitrogen nitrogen compound of AMMoNIAc -- A A gaseous AMMONIA. AMMONIAC and possessing strong caustic proand caustic strong alkaline alkaline and hydrogen possessing and hydrogen perties. sneezing, gas affects perties. This the breathing breathing and and causes causes "ll",çL.!Jl)';, This gas affects the watering soluble in It isis easily easily soluble and cougrung. coughing. Il of the the eyes, eyes, and watering of water, volatile liquid ammonia ammonia or or volatile constitutes liquid and then then constitutes water, and alkali (the aqueous of itit A few few drops of solution of of ammonia). ammonia). A aqueous solution alkali (the are vomiting. of inebriety inebriety to to induce induce vomi'tml!. in cases cases of are recommended recommended in "",,,'liTJ''U>J.~'''''', cARBoNATE .luttloNIAQUE, CARBONATE OF. AMMONIAQUE, AMMONIA, CARBONATE CARBONATE OF. heat into into action of of heat under the the action decomposes under D' - A salt that decomposes ammonia gaseous) without leaving without leaving acid (both gaseous) carbonic acid ammonia and and carbonic preparations under names It is is used in certain preparations under the the names any residue. residue. It used in powder or or Alsatian Alsatian yeast to render non-fermented non-fermented of baking powder to render dough porous. The gases, in occupy a and porous. in escaping, occupya spongy and dough spongy greater an the grains of flour, vacuoles greater volume and form vacuoles the grains flour, and v-olume th than in thedough. These then disappear completely if the heat of of in the dough. These then disappear completely if the heat the oyen is sufficiently strong. strong. is sufficiently the oven

Ail gastronomical writers precepts on All the the gastronomical writers have have laid laid down down precepts on the guests. The relationships of hosts and and guests. The most most famous the relationships of hosts famous of of these delala works isis the Manuel des des amphitryons arnphitryons by by Grimod Grimod de these works the Manuel Reynière. Reynidre. In le recent times In more more recent Auguste Michel Michel has has devoted devoted aawho whole times Auguste book 'the man full of receives at at his his book full of usefuJ useful hints hints to to 'the man who who receives table' table' concerning concerning his his rôle r6le of Manuel des des of host, host, entitled entitled Manuel nn
AMOMUM. ginger family family herb of of the the ginger AMoME -- Perennial Perennial herb AMOMUM. AMOME 22 22

ANAEMIA ANAEMIA

Terracotta amphorae amphorae for for Terracolla storing oil oil or or wine wine storing

Decorated Greek Greek amphora amphora Decorated

historical or or legendary, legendary, was was Lucullus. Lucullus. He He can can be as aa be taken as historical model of amphitryons, for of amphitryons, forhe guests truly offered his his guests trulymagnifihe offered magnifimodel feasts. cent feasts. cent Historians havegiven have given us us accounts accounts of of the the lavishness lavishness of of Historians Maecenas' table; table; he, he, too, too, is is described great master of described as as aa great of Maecenas' the art art of of entertaining. entertaining. Heliogabulus Heliogabulus was was another renowned the for the the extraordinary extraordinary luxury luxuryof his table. table. Then Then there there were were the for of his men of three men (see of the the name Apicius in in ancient ancient Rome Rome (see name Apicius three APTCTUS). APICIUS). Let us us not not forget forget Assurbanipal, Assurbanipal, even even though he he belongs belongs to Let legend rather rather than than to history. He was one one of of the the most legend to history. He was ostentatious of of the the Assyrian Assyrian kings kings -- none none other than than the ostentatious legendary Sardanapalus. Sardanapalus. legendary Belshazzar, must have grand amphitryon on Belshazzar, too, too, must have been been an an amphitryon on aa grand scale, because when describing even describing aa truly scale, because ev en today, today, when truly magnifimagnificent still say say that we still that itit was'a was 'a veritable veritable Belshazzar's Belshazzar's cent banquet, banquet, we feast'. feast'. 'For aa rich 'For rich man,'writes man,' writes Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reynière, 'the 'the best r6le is that rôle in in the the world world is that of of host.' host.' Berchoux, says: Berchoux, for for his his part, part, says:

ground or on on aa specially specially constructed pierced pierced shelf. ground

AMYGDALINE -- Chemical name name for for the the substance substance that AMYGDALINE makes the the oil oil of bitter almonds noxious. noxious. Amygdalin is makes is the the all substances, cakes or sweets, sweets, that contain term applied to ail almonds. ANAEMIA. ANÉMIE llwrtIun -- Anaemia is characterised characterised by a diminuANAEMIA. tion of of the the red red corpuscles corpuscles of the blood. Persons suffering tion the blood. anaemia are said to be anaemic. anaemic. from anaemia Diet for anaemÏcs anaemics -- Iron being the principal medicine for anaemic conditions, conditions, dieticians introduce introduoe as as many iron-rich anaemic foods into possible. These the diet diet as as possible. yolk of These are are yolk foods into the of egg, meat, pig's (animal origin); green cabbage, blood, etc. origin); green etc. (animal meat, pig's blood, spinach, chicory, chicory, oats, oats, lentils, white haricot beans, carrots, etc. (vegetable is naturally etc. (vegetable origin); also also red red wine. wine. It It is naturally advisable, before following following such a diet, diet, to take into account the condition of of the digestive digestive organs, since they are usually usually deficient. This is the reason why, for example, ex ample, pig's blood, although rich in iron, can can rarely rarely be he used. used. This This diet diet has rich in recently been modified modified following research research carried carried out by an American scholar, Dr. American scholar, Dr. Whipple, Whipple, who who has has proved proved both experimentally experimentally and in in practice practice that that calfs calfs liver liver is the the food food that best assures the regeneration of of the the blood; blood; kidneys, hearts hearts and meat also react react well, weil, but but less effectively. The efrcacy efficacy of preparations preparations based based on on dehydrated dehydrated stomach, usually prescribed in pharmaceutical pharmaceutical form, has has also also been been recognised. recognised. Whipple's diet consists of a daily ration of 150-250 g. (5-9 (5-9 oz.) calf's liver eaten for breakfast breakfast or lunch, a little meat, meat, fresh fresh vegetables vegetables chosen chosen from those those rich rich in iron, iron, fruit fruit (peaches, (peaches, apples, etc.). etc.). Bread, Bread, starch starch products, products, eggs eggs and sugar sugar are are restricted; restricted; oils and and fats fats are are forbidden forbidden apart apart from from aa little little fresh fresh butter; butter; skinmed skimmed milk milk is is generally generally allowed. allowed. The The Iiver liver has has preferably preferably to to be be eaten eaten raw, raw, especially especially for for grave grave forms of pernicious pernicious anaemia. anaemia. forms of There There are are various various recipes recipes for for the the preparation preparation of of raw raw or or cooked cooked liver. liver. Raw Raw liver. liver. Slice Slice the the liver, liver, then then mince mince it. it. The The resulting resulting pulp pulp should should be he free free from from all all stringy stringy tissues. tissues. Serve Serve itit in in sandwiches, sandwiches, or or mixed mixed with with preserves, preserves, or or with with wann warm beef beef tea tea to to form fonn aa pur6e. purée. There is even even aa recipe recipe for for liver liver cocktail. cocktail. Pound Pound about about There is 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lightly lightly cooked cooked liver. liver. Place Place on on lettuce lettuce leaves, leaves, and and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Add Add aa slice slice of of raw raw tomato, tomato, choppd chopped parsley parsley and and aa little little mustard. mustard. Prepare Prepare It cup cup tomato tomato sauce, sauce, *t cup cup lemon lemon juice, juice, 22 coffeespoons coffeespoons Worcestershire Worcestershire sauce,1| sauce, t coffeespoon coffeespoonfinely finely chopped chopped shallots, shallots, salt salt and and pepper. pepper.

'S'il est 'S'il est un un r6le rôle noble noble et et bien bien digne digne d'envie, d'envie, C'est C'est celui celui d'un d'un mortel mortel qui quifait en sa sa maison, maison, fait en Les Les honneurs honneurs de de sa sa table table en en digne digne amphitryon.' amphitryon.'

'If 'If there there is is aa noble noble r6le, rôle, aa truly truly enviable enviable one, one, ItIt isis that that of of aa mortal mortal who who in in his his house house does does

The of his his table table like like aa true true amphitryon.' amphitryon.' The honours honours of Barras, Cambac6rds and Talleyrand Barras, Cambacérès and Talleyrand were were distinguished distinguished amphitryons. amphitryons. Napoleon Napoleon said said of of Cambacerds: Cambacérès: 'If 'If you you wish wish to to eat Other tables tables eat really really well, weil, go go and and visit visit my my arch-chancellor.' arch-chancellor.' Other were their food, were renowned renowned for for the the quality quality of oftheir food, although although some, sorne, like that of of Princess Princess Mathilde, Mathilde, for for their their mediocrity. mediocrity. The The like that disappearance disappearance of of great great wealth, wealth, the the servant servant problem, problem, the the habit of entertaining entertaining in in restaurants, restaurants, have have pushed pu shed amphiamphihabit of tryonism tryonism to to the the background. background. But But there there are are still still houses houses where where great great pains pains are are taken taken to to ensure ensure the the bonheur bonheur gourmand gourmand of of the the guests. guests.

AMPHORA. AMPHORA. AMpHoRE AMPHORE -- A A terracotta terracotta vase vase used used in in ancient ancient t'mes times for for measuring measuring liquids. liquids. The The capacity capacity of of the the Italic Italic

amphora, of the the Romans, Romans, was was 25.89litres. 25·89 litres. An An amphora amphora amphora, that that of kept kept in in the the Capitol Capitol served served as as aa standard standard measure. measure. The The Attic Attic arrphor4 of the the Greeks, Greeks, was was aa third third larger. larger. Amphorae Amphorae amphora, that that of were were used used to to store store oil, oil, wine, wine, olives olives and and raisins. raisins.

The amphora was was sess/r.s sessilis or or non non se.rsills sessilis according according to to The amphora whether whether it it stood stood upright upright on on its its base base or or terminated terminated in in aa rounded in aa hole hole in in the the rounded point. point. In In the the latter latter case case itit was was placed placed in

23 23

ANAGNOST ANAGNOST part of minced minced or grated grated liver to 2l 21 pans parts of this this Mix I1 part shake and and chill. chilI. mixture, shake Ca/f's liver /iver an au gratin. Blanch Blanch and and dice dice 450 450 g. (l (1 lb.) calf's calf's Calf's liver, and and place place it on aa buttered buttered plate. Cover with breadliver, crumbs, white sauce sauce and pulped pulpedtomatoes. tomatoes. Season with salt crumbs, and pepper pepper and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. A little Httle ham ham and chopped and he· added. added. parsley may be Liver balls. balls. Blanch and pound 450 g. g. (1 (l lb.) liver with rashers cif Of fat bacon. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) 2 rashers crea m, I1 chopped chopped onion, onion, 22 eggs (or (or the the yolks yolks only), only), and stale cream, fresh breadcrumbs until of a consistency to forrn fonn into or fresh rather large balls. Bake these in the oven. oven. rather Liver creun. cream. Mix i cup pounded poupded liver urith with I1 egg, egg, well weIl Liuer and season with salt and pepper. Thin with milk, beaten, and place in the oven until set. pour into a bain-marie, and place Raw /iver vinaigrette. Cut raw liver into small pieces and Raw liver season with vinegar, onion, parsley and chervil. chervil. season

I

ANAGNOST. ANAcNosrEANAGNOSTE - Name given by the Romans to ANAGNOST. job it was to read during during meals. meals. slave whose job the slave The of the Emperor Emperor Claudius, Claudius, The custom dates from the time of although nowadays nowadays itit hardly hardJy exists, except except in sorne some nunneries althougb monasteries. and monasteries. Not so there was an anagnoste in each Not so long ago, however, there

of the· French French educational establishments run by the run by educational establishments of the Church. He was considered a privileged privileged person. His meals Church. were bis companions corn panions had left the table, were served to him after his and he was usually given a a wider choice and more copious The post was was much by the after by much sought after portions of food. food. The pupils.

ANALECT. dutyy slave whose dut ANALEcTE- Name given to the slave ANALECT. ANALECTEit was to collect the remains of aa Roman meal. meal. History does not relate what happened left-overs; they were probhappened to these left-overs; ably portions, artistically artistically arranged, acceptable portions, ably neatened into acceptable and and sold in special markets. (See ARLEQUINS.) -- Whatever and up and Whatever builds builds up restores Term applied to light foods which rcstores exhausted exhausted forces. Tenu are easy quickly produce aa sensation sensation of to digest and which guickly €asy to well-being. Full-bodied wines, wines, heef beef tea, meat jellies, tapioca and analeptics. all analeptics. and chocolate are aIl

ANALEPTIC. lNlr.eprIQUE ANALEPTIC. ANALEPTIQUE

ANALYSIS. term for for the the separation ANALYSIS. ANALYSE -- Scientific tenn of the The various consticonstiits component component parts. The into its the whole into tuents been scientifically scientifically analysed. food have often been tueats of food ANAPHYLAXIS. ANAPHYLAXIE ANApHyLAxE -- Word Word created created by by Professor discurious phenomenon disdefine the the curious fessor C. C. Richet Richet to to define covered poisons increase rather than increase rather him: that that certain certain poisons covered by by him: diminish their action. of an an organism to their sensitiveness of organism to the sensitiveness diminish the A minimal dose given to animal 1e a4 non-sensitised nsn-sensitised animal dose of of poison given has no while alarming effects in effects are are produced in no serious serious effects, effects,while an animal dose of of has previously been given aa non-fatal dose animal that has the the same same poison. This It also also injeotions. It internal injections. true after after internaI This isis especially especially true explains certain ofcertain after the the ingestion of that occur occur after thq disorders disorders that explains the foods. foods. Food people, following ingestion following the the ingestion Some people, Food anaphylaxis anephylrxb -- Sorne of honey, chocolate, chocolate, milk, honey, eggs, milk, as bread, bread, eggs, foods such such as of certain certain foods etc., of the the nettlenettleoften of eruptions, often to skin skin eruptions, af€ subject either to etc., are subject either rash or to to asthma, or akin to to asthma, disorder akin respiratory disorder rash kind, kind, or or to to aa respiratory severe severe headaches. headaches. The and belongs belongs onp and is aa delicate delicate on~ treatmetrt is The desensitisation desensitisation treatment entirély of medicine. to the the realm realm of entirely to

(6 inches) ANCHOVY. inches) 15 cm. cm. (6 sea fish, fish, 15 ANcHoIs -- Small Small sea ANCHOVY. ANCHOIS long. ms aa green colour latpr tu turns colour which which latpr beautiful green long. Its Its back back isis aa beautiful dark the all of whict! helps helps the of which' greenish blue, almost black., black, aIl then almost blue, then dark greenish buyer to determine from It can can bedistinguiShed be distinguished from its freshness. freshness. It determine its buyeito the which projecting snout, large mouth, mouth, which snout, and and large its projecting sardine by by its the sardine

Preparation of of anchovies (after (afler a drawing HoueI) Preparation drawing by J Houel)

stretches almost to the gills. stretches almost It is The has long been appreciated as as aa food. food. It The anchovy has and its mentioned in the the works works of of Elien Elien and and Aristotle, Aristotle, and mentioned in (q.v.), which garum (g.v.), which the used in the the making making of garum viscera viscera are used Greeks and Romans called 'the most precious sauce'. delicate flavour Anchovies have have a very very delicate flavour when when fresh, but can where they are caught. only be eaten fresh in the countries where eate,n fresh smelt. or smelt. they are are much much tastier When fried they tastier than than gudgeon or When fried Mediterranean coast from The best best anchovies anchovies come from the Mediterranean Nice to Catalonia, Catalonia, and are very large in that region. prepared at home or industrially, are used Anchovy Anchovy fillets, prepared example. in many dishes, hot and cold; in pizza, for example. offand Method of preparation. Cut the head off and clean out the of preparatior. flesh is inside. inside. Wipe the fish without pressing too hard, as the flesh very delicate. method of of cooking cooking and most most popular method Perhaps Perhaps the the best best and When they they are frying them them in in olive olive oil. oil. When fresh anchovies is is frying fresh anchovies (q.v.) fresh sardines (g.v.) large, aIl for cooking all the recipes given for cooking fresh can anchovies. to anchovies. can he be applied to found in this Anchovy is mostly prepared in brine, and is found It can also he be preserved in fonn form in aIl all the markets of Europe. It oil, oil, or or pickled. r, LA u SILÉSIENNE snfsruNs -- Fillet 6 ANcHoIs À Ancbovies silesienne. ANCHOIS Anchovies ài la silésienne. for half-an-hour half-an-hour in and leave them to to soak soak for fresh fresh anchovies anchovies and white wine. and rub rub in water, water, and roes of 22 salted herring in Soak the soft soft roes salted herring Soak the finely chopped chopped sieve. Add 2 teaspoons finely them fine sieve. thern through through aa fine pur6e parsley. Thin Thin down down this this purée with chopped chopped parsley. shallot shallot mixed with were soaked. soaked. the anchovies anchovies were which the with with the white wine in which arrange dish, and and arrange Spread in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, the mixture mixture in Spread the the Surround the the anchovy fillets on criss-cross pattern. Surround anchovy fillets on it in aa criss-cross of boiled boiled mixed salad salad composed composed of fiJlets of mixed fillets with with aa border border of well dice and and weIl into small small dice potatoes cut into potatoes and apples, cut and tart tart apples, parsley and of and thin slices of thin slices seasoned. with sprigs sprigs of of parsley seasoned. Garnish Garnish with olive sprinkle with with olive lemon serving, sprinkle and beetroot. Just before before serving, lemon and beetroot. Just oil. oil. anchovy ANcHoIs -- Cut Cut anchovy Ancbovy cer.lApEs AUX Atx ANCHOIS Anchovy canapés. canapcs. CANAPÉS pieces and slices ofbread of bread on long long slices and arrange arrange them them on fillets small pieces fillets in srnall spread with with aa and been been spread which removed and which have have had had the the crusts crusts removed (see BUTIER). BUTTER). Chop Chop light d'hdtel butter (see Mattre d'hôte/butter light coating coating of of Maître and (separately) the yolks and (separately) hard-boiled eggs, and and whites whites of of hard-boiledeggs, the yolks pieces parsley; arrange between the the pieces little heaps heaps of of these these between sorne arrang€ little some parsley; parsley. of with curly curly parsley. anchovy. Garnish Garnish with of anchovy.

Anchovy

and spices: spices : from lrom lefllo paprika;aaniseed, tierbs and juniper berries. njseed , cayenne, left to righlright -juniper cayenne, berries, cinnamon, cinnamon, basil, basil, paprika; ajoujoli, coriander; pepper, ginger, ginger, fennel, coiander; curry, fennel, ajoujoli, curry, caraway, caraway, raz raz el el IJan/OUl, rosemary; pepper, hamour, rosemary; pepper; Phot. Larousse) sweet pepper; celery, Lorousse) frron , c1oves, sage (Hédiard. Phal. sweet celery,sa saflron, cloves,sage(Hidiard.

ANCHOVY ANCHOVY gall-bladders and and intestines intestinesby pressingwith withthe bypressing gaU-bladders thethumb. thumb. Put Put theanchovies anchoviesininlayers layersinto intoaasmall small barrel barrelwith withsalt saltmixed the mixed powderedbrick; with red red ochre proportionsare ochreor orpowdered brick; the with theproportions are66kg. kg. (12lb.) lb.)salt powdered brick. salttoto500 lb.)powdered 500g.g.(1(1lb.) (12 brick.The Thelayers layersofof (2| inches) anchovies should should be be66cm. cm.(2t inches) thick, anchovies layer thick,each eachlayer (f-inch)layer separated from from the next by the next byaa2-cm. 2-cm. (i-inch) layerofofthe separated the mixed salt saltand and brick dust. brickdust. mixed When the puton thebarrel barrel isisfull, full, put When onthe lid,which which must musthave haveaa thelid, pierced in hole pierced inthe themiddle. hole middle. Pour Pour aaconcentrated concentrated solution solutionofof seasalt salt on sea on the the anchovies anchovies through through this thishole. hole.Leave Leave the thebarrel barrel in the thesun, sun, with with aabrick in brick over over the thehole holeinin the thelido lid.The Theheat heatof of producesfennentation the sun preserves the the sun produces fermentation which which preserves thefish fishand and quality, and ensures their ensures theirkeeping keeping qua!ity, andthe thebrick brickover overthe thehole hole preventsthe prevents thebrine brine from from evaporating. evaporating. When When the degree of fermentation isisconsidered thedegree offermentation consideredsufficient, sufficient, putaacork remove remove the thebrick andput brick and corkininthe holeininthe thehole thelido lid. Anchovies preserved in Anchovies preserved in brine brine can can be usedas ashors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre beused preparations. and and for for other other preparations. p,l,uprnrrEsD'ANCHOIS RoUed Rolled ancbovies anchovies àA laIa Talleyrand. Talleyrand. PAUPIETTES D'ANcHors ÀA LA u TALLEYRAND rx.lryRAND -- Trim Trim and and flatten flattenthe thefiUets. fillets.Stutf Stuffthem them with pur6e made with aa purée pickled tunny (tunafish) made of of pickled fish) mixed tunny (tuna mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped truffies truffies and and bound bound with with aa tablespoon tablespoonof of mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange Arrange the and roUed rolled anchovies the stutfed stuffed and anchovies on onthick thickslices slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg. egg. Put Put them them on on an anhors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish dishand andsursurv.) of round (q.v.) round them with aachiffonade chffinade (q. them with of finely lettuce, finelyshredded shredded lettuce. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of lemon and and beetroot, of lemon beetroot, and and sprink1e sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. pAuprETTEs D'ANCHOIS p'.LNcHors ÀALA RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies ài la la tartare. tartare. PAUPIETTES r,c, TARTARE rARrARx -- Trim Trim and and flatten flatten anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. Stuff Stuff them them with grated horseradish puree of with aa purée of grated horseradish which which has has been been kneaded kneaded with with butter. butter. Put Put the the roUed rolled anchovies anchovies on rather thick on rather thickslices slices of of cooked (cut with cooked beetroot beetroot (cut with fluted fluted cutters) cutters) and and arrange arrange them them on on an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Decorate Decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and capers, eggs and capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. pAuprErrEs RoUed Rolled anchovies anchovies with with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AUX Aux OEUFS oEUFs DURS DURS -- Trim Trim the anchovy fillets the anchovy fillets and and shape (canned or shape them them into into rolls rolls (canned or bottled bottled anchovies anchovies may may be be used). used). Arrange Arrange them them in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, parsley and eggs, parsley and capers, capers, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with olive olive oil. oil. Soused Soused anchovies. anchovies ANCHOIS ANcHors MARINÉS umrNfs -- Clean Clean 450 450 g.g. (1(l lb.) lb.) fresh fresh anchovies. anchovies. Lay Lay them plate, sprinkle them on on aa plate, sprinkle with with salt, salt, and and leave leave to to souse souse for for 22 hours. hours. Dry just Dry the the anchovies, anchovies, and and fry fry them them in in smoking smoking hot hot oil oil just long enough enough to to stiffen stiffen them. put them Drain, put them. Drain, them into into an an earthenearthenware dish, dish, and and cover with aa marinade prepared in cover with marinade prepared in the the followfollowing manner: manner: Heat the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding the oil in which the anchovies were cooked (adding 55 or or 66 tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh oil). Fry aa finely oil). Fry finely sliced sliced mediummedium-

Anchovy canapés canap6s Anchovy

Anchory fillets. fillets. FILETS FTLETs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors -- Desalt Desalt the anchovies Ancbovy the anchovies (that is, and trim trim them them (that is, remove remove bones and skin). and bones and skin). Wipe Wipe these these fillets with with aa c10th and cut into 20r cloth and cut into 2 or 33 strips lengthwise. fiUets strips lengthwise. (Canned fillets fillets may may be be used.) used.) (Canned Arrange the the fiUet fillet strips strips decoratively Arrange decoratively in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. Garnish Garnish with yolks and with yolks and whites dish. whites of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, chopped separately, separately, and and chopped parsley and chopped parsley chopped and capers. capers. the fiUets fillets with with aa few Sprinkle the few tablespoons tablespoons of of olive olive oil. oil. The arrangement of porcelain, cut-glass anchovy fiUets The of anchovy fillets in in porcelain, cut-glass or silver silver hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dishes or dishes lends lends itself itself to to aa variety variety of of artistic expression. expression. Slices quartered lettuce artistic Slices of of lemon, lemon, quartered lettuce hearts, sm small hearts, ail gherkins cut cut in in various various shapes, shapes, beetroot betroot cut cut in in rounds or crescents, crescents, etc., can also also be etc., can be added added to ingredients to the the ingredients mentioned above. Anchory fillets Ancbovy filleb àI la la suédoise. suedoise. FILETS FTLETS D'ANCHOIS o'^LNcnors ÀA LA r.L suEoolsr -- Arrange the anchovy SUÉDOISE prepared in anchovy fillets, fillets, prepared in the the usual usual manner, on manner, on aa foundation foundation of of salad salad composed composed of of tart tart red red apples and cooked cooked beetroot, cut in small small dice, dice, seasoned seasoned with with oil, vinegar, salt and and pepper. Surround Surround tbis garnish of this salad salad with with aa garnish little bunches of little bunches of of parsley, yolks and parsie y, yolks and wbites whites of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and and cooked cooked truffies, ail all chopped separately separately and and arranged arranged in in individual individual groups. Sprinkle Sprinkle with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of oil. oil. Anchovy toast. Anchovy toast. TOASTS rolsrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Garnish Garnish lightly lightly pieces of bread with toasted pieces with fillets fillets of of anchovies. anchovies. Sprinkle Sprinkle them with breadcrumbs which have been fried in in butter, and and brown in the oven oven for aa few minutes. Fried anchovies. ANCHOIS .cxcHols FRITS FRrrs -- Clean and prepare fresh Clean and fresh anchovies. Dip them in anchovies. in milk, milk, drain drain them, them, and and roll roll them them in in flour, keeping the fish fish separate as as far far as as possible. Fry them in irr very very hot fat. fat. Drain, Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine, fine, dry salt. Pile them on aa heated plate and and garnish with fried fried parsley and lemon quarters. Medallions of ancbovy Medalliore anchovy à I la niçoise. MEDATLLoNS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors nigoise. MEDAILLONS À u LA utgotsn NIÇOISE - Spread A Spread slices slices of crustless crustless bread bread with with butter butter that has been mixed with thick tomato purée. pur6e. Put aa slice slice of of hard-boiled egg on each slice, hard-boiled and a roUed rolled fiUet fillet of anchovy slice, and egg. on the egg. these medallions with stoned Garnish these stoned black black olives, olives, and and a little !ittle chopped parsley. Arrange sprinkle with a Arrange them them on on aa paper doyley, and add a further garnish of parsley. of curly curly parsley. poRTUcArsE Portuguese anchovy ancbovy fillgts. fiUets. FILETS Portuguese FTLETS D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors PORTUGAISE Prepare desalted desalted anchovies anchovies in fillets, fiUets, and cut Prepare cut them into thin them into thin be used. used. Canned fillets may may be strips. Canned fondue of of tomatoes (see Prepare aa fondue (see TOMATO), TOMATO), cooked cooked it in in anhors-d'euvre an hors-d'œuvre dish. lightly in oil, and and put it lightly dish. Arrange Arrange the the pattern on on top top of of the fondue. Decorate fillets in aa criss-cross criss-cross pattern fillets the fondue. Decorate capers, chopped chopped parsley, slices slices of of peeled peeled lemon, with capers, lemon, and and of olive olive oil. oil. sprinkle with with aa few tablespoons tablespoons of sprinkle Preserved anchovies. ancbovies. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'ANcHors D'ANCHOIS - This must be be heserved This must - the made with with freshly freshly caught caught anchovies. anchovies. Remove Remove the heads, the made heads, the

Medallions Medallions of of anchovy anchovy àd la la niçoise nigoise

25 25 Barquettes andtartlets and tartlets with witb fruit fruit fillings fillings (Po (Potel and Chabot. Chabot. phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Barquettes tel and

ANCHOYADE sliced carrot in in the the oil. oil. Add Add 3 unpeeled sized onion and aa sliced unpeeled (6 tablespoons, garlic, 1I dl. cloves of garlic, dl. (6 tablespoons, scant !l cup) vinegar, cloyes and 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant tj cup) water. Season Season with fine and j bay leaf parsley, 1of thyme, 3 sprigs parsley, leaf and salt, and add a sprig of peppercorns. crushed 1-I teaspoon teaspoon cru shed peppercorns. for 10 l0 minutes. Pour Ppur the mixture, mixture, still boiling, on the Boil for anchovies. Leave to souse souse for 24 hours. anchovies. garnished in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish dish garni slices of Serve in shed with Serve with slices lemon.

(Chitterlings) -- Andouillettes are prearc preANDOUILLETTES (Chitterlings) pared like andouilles, andouilles, but smaller intestines are used. There pared are many varieties, differing for the most part in the spices (old are made made àri la ficelle ficelle (old used composition. Sorne used in in their composition. Some are method); the tripe is cut lengthwise into strips. Others are stuffed with diced or minced tripe. gastronomic societies, comexclusive of gastronomic One of the most exclusive prising is the only five five branches, branches, is the Association amicale des prising only andouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) amateurs amateurs d'authentiques d'authentiques andouillettes lovers of authentic andouillettes'. diploma from 'Society of loyers of authentic andouillettes'. A diploma after. Its members have opporthis society is much sought after. members have opporthis length the comparative merits of the comparative merits tunities to to discuss at length tunities Troyes, Arras, Arras, Cambrai, Fleurie in andouillettes of Troyes, Paris, Fleurie Cambrai, Paris, Beaujolais, Aubagne, Lourdes, etc. poached and Andouillettes,like andouilles, are Andouillettes, like andouilles, are sold ready poached All that needs to be done is to slit the skin and and grill cooled. AlI them gently. andouillettes. It is a mistake to serve fried vegetables with andouillettes. A.A.A.A.A. has experimented with creamed potatoes, The A.A.A.A.A. lentils, red fried onions, raw red red cabbage, creamed creamed celery, celery, lentils, fried au gratin, stewed apples, etc., but total beans, vegetables au apples, etc., gratin, stewed beans, agreement has been reached on only one point: andouillettes agreement require aa good strong mustard. Andouillettes àI la la lyonnaise lyonnaise -- Slit Slit the and AndouiUettes the andouillettes and cook them in lard or butter. When two-thirds done, add a previously lightly cooked in finely chopped onion previously in lard lard or finely butter. Simmer until done. When ready to serve, add a tableand aa tablespoon of ofchopped ofvinegar. spoon of chopped parsley and vinegar.

(Provengal eookery) preparation based ANCHOYADE cookery) -- A preparation ANCHOY ADE (Provençal paste. Pound on anchovy paste. the anchovies anchovies in on Pound the in aa mortar, mortar, add paste on and aa few olive oil oil and few drops drops of vinegar. Spread olive Spread this this paste home-made bread, and sprinkle with finely chopped of home-made slices of chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, onion, chopped and aa little egg, and onion, little olive olive oil. Brown in the oyen. Brown oven. nigoise -- Add chopped shallot and parsley Anchoyade àI la niçoise Anchoyade to anchovy paste, moisten with olive oil, and spread to paste, moisten oil, and spread this mixture on slices of toast, or bread fried fried in oil until until golden brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped brown. garlic, and and garlic, with olive oil. and then then with parsley and oil. Brown in in the oyen. oven.

(A V) preparations treated ANCIENNE L') -- Name to preparations ANCIENNE (À Name given to of the old school. school. These These dishes dishes were according to the precepts of garnishes, and braised braised beef slowly simmered usually mixed garnishes, simmered characteristic type is Rump of of beef for a long time. The most characteristic I'ancienne (see BEEF). BEEF). àd l'ancienne applies to dishes such as pastry shells baked The term also applies baked blind (empty) and and filled with ragoûts ragofrts of cocks' combs combs and blind quenelles of kidneys, or or quenelles of truffles truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. (For kidneys, I'ancienne mode see CHICKEN, and for Escalopes Chicken àd l'ancienne VARIETY l'ancienne see OFF OFFAL of calves' sweetbreads àd l'ancienne of AL or V ARIETY MEATS.) l'ancienne also applies blanquettes (q.v.) and applies to blanquettes The term àd l'ancienne of lamb, veal and chicken treated treated in a special fricassées (q.v.) oflamb, fricassies way.

(Vlue grass) -- A plant of the genus of plant ANDROPOGON ANDROPOGON (Vlue A genus are known, known, one species of it are Gramineae Numerous species Grarnineae family. Numerous of which is the sugar cane. Several of the plants are used for infusion. like tea. infusion,

(Historig gastronomie gastronomic and culinary) ANECDOTES (Historie, and eulinary) ANECDOTES advised by was advised by his his physician that A convalescent Pompey was his recovery recovery would would be hastened by following aa diet bis be hastened diet of by following thrushes. When his servants servants returned with the news that it thrushes. summer except at of summer was impossible to find any in the height of Lucullus, the invalid turned to his physician and of Lucullus, the home of 'What's this? remarked, 'What's survival depend remarked, this? Does Pompey's survival (Les Classiques de Lucullus is aa glutton?' (Les upon the fact that Lucullus la table) la

(A V) preparations ANDALOUSE (À L) -- N Name different prepara ANDALOUSE ame given to different tions mainly by by tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet pimentos characterised mainly pimentos and sometimes chipolata sausages, aubergines chipolata sausages, aubergines and and rice rice pilaf. sometimes (See EGGS, I'andalouse; CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken EGGS, Eggs Eggs àd l'andalouse; (See Chickm àd I'andalouse.) l'andalouse.)

ANDOTIILLE -- A A large large pig filled with strips strips of ANDOUILLE pig intestine filled chitterlings and and stomach stomach of the same animal. These popular chitterlings (See are generally served cold, cold, as as an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. (See sausages are PORK.) Large smoked of Vire Vire and as those andouilles such smoked andouilles such as those of L~lfge are sold sold ready-cooked, readv-cooked. and Gu6m6n6 are and should should be Guéméné be served thinly sliced.

de Duras, Duras, seeing Descartes Descartes tucking into aa good Le duc duc de jestingly, 'What 'What ho! ho ! Do Do philoday, remarked jestingly, meal meal one one day, delicacies?' sophers have aa use for such delicacies?' you imagine 'Do you imagine that 'Why not?' retorted Descartes. Descartes. 'Do 'Why not?' retorted simply Nature produced the good things of the earth sim Nature ply for the ignorant?' (Panckoucke) well known that Mme. de Maintenon was extremely It is weIl poor evening wbile of her first marriage. One evening while she po or at the time of was entertaining no roast entertaining sorne some people at at supper and and had had no was lackey, a witt wittyy fellow of some spirit, sidled up to to offer, her lackey, of sorne his mistress, mistress, who who was was entertaining entertaining the the company with with her his 'Madame, wittyy conversation, charmingly charmingly witt conversation, and and whispered, 'Madame, you have more story, story, and and no no one will will notice notice that have no that you one more Beaumelle) roast for supper.' (La Beaumelle)

The food was very very bad bad at food was at Mme. Mme. d'Aligre's d'Aligre's hou house se and The 'Really,' remarked M. 'if much discussed. discussed. 'RealIy,' M. de de Lauraguais, 'if much neighbour's, one did not eat one's own bread as weIl well as one's neighbour's, here one wou Id die of hunger.' (Grimm, Correspondance) would Correspondance) Admiral Russel invited the officers and and crews of One day AdmiraI his fteet fleet to He had had aa marble marble basin bis to drink punch with him. He for the the middle the occasion in specially constructed for middle of a in the magnificent which he he ordered to be poured six magnificent garden, into which (brandy), six hundred bottles of hundred bottles of Cognac (brandy), rum, twelve twelve hundred bottles of Malaga, four tons of boiling

Vire and and Guéméné andouille (Larousse) Vire Gu6m6n6 andoujlle

26

ANECDOTES water, water, the Ihe juice of two two thousand six six hundred hundred lemons, six hundred pounds of the best Lisbon sugar and two hundred grated grated nutmegs. nutmegs. A young young man man representing representing Hebe Hebe rowed round round the Ihe basin basin in a small small mahogany mahogany boat, boat, filling filling the Ihe cups of more more than six thousand thousand drinkers drinkers seated seated in an an amphitheatre amphitheatre of benches benches round the basin. (Ivrogniana)

uninspired uninspired for a gastronome of his calibre: 'The difference between between her and la Brinvilliers Brinvilliers is in their intention.' intention.' By skillful skillful grafting a gardener gardener from Montreuil Montreuil succeeded sucœeded in propagating propagating a most exquisite variety variety of of peach. peach. He desired desired to 10 present the fruit fruit in homage to 10 Louis XVIII, XVIII, but before before exposing himself to to a a test test upon which which his rus reputation so 50 The latter, much much depended, depended, he he decided decided to to visit visit M.P.R. M.P.R. The stretched stretched out ouI in in his his armchair, armchair, legs legs crossed crossed and and hands hands clasped, c1asped, prepared himself himself in gentle gen tle contemplation con templation to deliver him. The the important important yerdict verdict that was was expected of ofrum. The gardener silver knife. requested requested a a plate piate with a a silver knife. He cut cut the the precious peach in quarters, quarters. speared one of of these with the point of of the saying, knife knife and and gravely pushed pushed it it into into M.P.R.'s mouth, saying, 'Taste the juice!' juice!' His eyes eyes closed, closed, M.P.R. M .P. R. tasted tasled the juice juice without uttering a a word. The The gardener observdd observed him, him, his of two or three eyes clouded with anxiety. After an interval of minutes, of his minutes. those of ms mentor mentor opened. opened. 'Good, very good, good, my had time friend,' friend,' were were the the only only words words he he had time to to utter. utter. Imquarter was advanced like the first, mediately, the second quarter the second was advanced first. confident tone, and more confident tone, comand the the gardener, in a a firmer, more same manded, 'Tagte 'Taste the flesh'. There followod followed the sa me silence, gourmet. This on the part of the learned gourmet. the same gravity gravit y on time the movement of his mouth was more pronounced, pronounced, for for nodded rus his head. 'Ah, 'Ah, very good, he was chewing. At last he uodded wa~ chewing. of very good!' You You are are going to think think that the superiority of judged and that no more remained to be the peach had been beenjudged 'Savour slioe followed said? Not at all! The third tmrd slice followed in its ils turn. tum. 'Savouf the gardener. The aroma was found the aroma!' aroma!'continued continued the found and the of the juice to worthy of to be be worthy juice and the flesh. ftesh. Whereupon Whereupon the gardener drew rumself himself up to his gardener rus full height to present present the last quarter. His His face, flushed, glowed quarter. face, slightly flushed, g10wed with with pride and satisfaction: 'Taste the whole!' His triumph was complete. satisfaction: him moist-eyed and and towards him and carne came towards M.P.R. M.P. R. tasted tasled it, it, and friend, it it is hand effusively. 'Ah, my friend, his hand smiling. He grasped his perfect! 1 compliments.' I offer you my heartfelt compliments.' perfeet!

Heliogabalus rus parasites parasites to meals meals of Heliogabalus used used to entertain entertain his grass, and was wont wonl to cover coyer his rus table with embroidered or all the dishes tapestry tablecloths upon upou which wruch were worked worked ail

appeared at that ought to to have have appeared al the the different courses. courses. At other other times times he tantalised their Iheir gaze gaze with paintings paintings of of various various them everything everytrung they could wish foods, seemingly offering thern for, yet leaving them ravenously hungry. hungry. (Lampride)

M. le pr6sident président B. gave a regular weekly dinner; splendid wines, cuisine worthy of an archbishop, archbishop, and wit table, fine wines, worthy of a member of l'AcadCmie l'Académie frangaise'of française 'of the fortyfort yfirst chair'. An old and faithful servant charge of servant was put in charge the cellar, to offer the various cellar, and was was also also commissioned 1O wines to the guests. He acquitted himself himself of this task with a dignified air, though intonations discreet and dignified intonations of of an amorous tabby-cat crept into his voice each each time he he announced the Ihe tabby-cat wines - the na me and and the patent of nobility of these great wines name the patent glory of France. He announced with particular fervour a glory certain cerlain vin vin de fond. fond. When he he said he gave the said 'Vin de fond' he his mouth, so impression that was roHing rolling it around that he he was around in in his gounnets allowed his that even the least enthusiastic of the gourmets that rus fiIled. However, this glass to be filled. trus wine, wine, so brilliantly brilliantly presented, presented, gave little pleasure to Ihose il. As a rule Ihey little pleasure those who tasted it. they pulled faces while drinking vdn wry faces vin de fond. fond. r,s this 'Tell me, what is this vrn vin de fond?' Mme. la pr6sidente présidente B. 'Is there it in asked her her sommelier sommelier one one day. day. 'Is there much asked much of it in the cellar?' cellarT an air the servant with with an air of of mystery, 'Madame,' replied replied the 'there is enough enough to last for ever.' still looking perplexed. 'Ah!' sa id Mme. de B., stilllooking 'Ah!'said 'I make itit 'It isis quite quite simple,' sommelier. '! continued the 'It the sommelier. simple,' continued myself the boules. bottles. It is quite good enough rnyself from the dregs of Ihe prepared to drink without knowing for people who are prepared knowing what difference between they are drinking and who cannot tell the difference Bordeaux-Lafite.' a Clos-Vougeot and a Bordeaux-Lafite.' vm defonddisappeared the vin de fond disappeared from From that day onwards the (J. Richard, the table ofM.Ie of M. le pr6sident Richard,,l'Epoque) président B. (1. l'Époque)

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night at one of of a number of elegant Fontenelle dined dined each mght houses, that caused Piron to to remark remark upon upon seeing the hou ses, aa fact fact Ihat one day day achis window doyen of of the the AcadCmie Académie passing passing his window one doyen retinue: 'That is the first time 1I have seen his retinue: companied by rus out!' intending to dine out!' M. de Fontenelle leave home without intending battle, Artaxerxes, king of Persia, having been defeated in baille, during the was constrained to eat dried figs and barley bread durillg ye gods,' he 'O ye fare excellent. excellent. '0 retreat. He found round this this rough fare myself up to now by 'what pleasure 1I have denied myself exclaimed, 'what tastes!' over-fastidious in my tas being over-fastidious tes !'

history was The man with the the most voracious appetite in hislory successor of Alexander Severus the Emperor Maximin, Maxiinin, successor of Alexander the Emperor

(Marcus AureIius). Aurelius). He went to to the the extent of consuming (at and an an amphora of an ordinary meal) meal) fort fortyY pounds of meal meat and an aocording to sorne, twenty-eight French wine; that is is to say. say, according some, twenty-eight (EncyclopCdie méthomCthootlers, thirty-six. (Encyclopédie pints; according to to others, dique) 0'93 of aa litre. litre. Note. A pint in in Paris Paris was 0·93 NOIe. serving honour of serving had the the honour landlord of aa village inn had The The landlord that he he broke broke his an occasion occasion thal II with with an an egg egg on on an rus George George II journey there, guinea in in payment. joumey there, and and asked one guinea His His Majesty smilingly smilingly remarked: 'It seems scaroe hereabouts.' 'It seems eggs are are rather scarce the the eggs -- the the innkeeper, 'not 'not the replied the 'Oh no, sire,' sire,' replied 'Oh no, kings.'

Montmaurwas noisycompany daywith eating one day Montmaur was eating with a large, noisy company gentlemen!' he singing friends. friends. 'Hey there, there, gelltlemen!' and singillg of coughing and pray, eise called out, 'A lillie little silence, else how how are are we we to to know out, 'A silence, pray, called (Menagiana) what we are eating.' (Menagiana) Marshal Albert immediately immediately felt ill ifwild if wild boar or suc sucking king pig appeared on the the table. Erasmus had had only only to fish to to sme]] smell fish to become feverish. Erasmus placed apples llear anyone placed near Duchesne, Duchesne, secretary secretary to When anyone Frangois 1, I, blood blood poured from from his his nose. François

to Furetière, Furetidre, in in the the chapter devoted devoted to to large According to appetites: appeliles: eat aa loin of veal, a capon, seen one man eat capon, aa brace of of '1'I have seen woodcock and and aa mountain mountain of bread help. bread without any any help. 'The ballet so Aglais, who who lived lived two two hundred hundred or or so ballet dancer dancer Aglaïs, 'The supper she she would would Christ, was was so greedy that for supper years before Christ, and bread, and meat, and and aa dozen doze'n loaves of bread, ten pounds of meat, eat ten eat six pints of wille. wine. the equivalent equivalent of six drink the five day ate ate for lunch five Claudius Albinus one day 'The Emperor Claudius peaches, ten melons, aa hundred hundred peaches, ten melons, hundred figs, figs, aa hundred hundred gapes. forty-eight oysters oysters and and many grapes. beccaficchi, forty-eight

happy and A mosl and factious and Oh, happy and un unhappy cooks! A most faclious Oh, happy cooks! detestable race, according to to Hegesender. detestable gave the freedom The Athenian Athenian government gave freedom of the city city 10 to The certain Cherips invented an excellent Cherips because his father had Învented aa certain ragofit. trufred ragoût. truffled town to to with aa dinner, presented aa town Anthony, weil well pleased wilh his his cook. Mme. Henaultmade President Henault President made the following remark about Mme. and was far far too too unrefined and du du Deffand's cook cook whose cuisine was 27

ANETHOLE 'Oh 'all I1 wanted 'Oh Madame,' Madame,' said said Renan, 'ail wanted was a second was a helping of peas.'

'The Crotonia ate 'The athlete Milon Milon of ofCrotonia ate a whole ox after having carried it for a considerable length of of time on his shoulders. shoulders. 'The 'The Emperor Maximin became became so so fat fat through through overeating that he he used his wife's wife's bracelets bracelets as rings. 'An Phagon ate, 'An actor actor by by the the name name of ofPhagon ale, in the presence of of the Emperor Emperor Aurelius: Aurelius: a wild boar, a a sheep, a hundred round loaves loaves of of bread, bread, and a sucking pig. He washed washed it down down with twenty-four twenty-four measures of of wine.' (Les Classiques de la table) table)

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ANETHOLE. .lxErnor ANÉTHOL - Compound of a hydro-carbon a hydro-carbon (resembling oil oil of turpentine) and a a certain certain crystallisable crystallisable substance substance possessing a strong aniselike anise-like odour. odour. The essences of of anise, fennel, Chinese anise and and tarragon tarragon are mainly formed of of anethole. It is used for flavouring sweets, sweet dishes, and various liqueurs. liqueurs.

A A FEW FEW GOURMANDS. GOURMANDS. euEleurs QUELQUES cotrnrra,qwDs GOURMANDS-

Louis Louis XIII xm -- He was excellent excellent at at preparing eggs and and did so in of ways: ways: perdus, perdus, poached in black butter, hardhardin a variety variety of boiled up with bacon bacon (one of of his his inventions), inventions), boiled and chopped up etc. etc. He also also larded larded loins loins of of beef magnificently, magnificently, using using his his own own vermeil vermeil larding larding needle. needle. Mme. Mme. de Maintenon Maintenon - She She was was adept at preparing preparing dainty dishes dishes for for the the king king (still (still of of good appetite despite despite his his advancing ing years). years). Her Her particular particular speciality speciality was was dressed dressed cutlets seasoned seasoned with with parsley, parsley, which whir,h she she wrapped wrapped in buttered buttered paper paper and and grilled. In other other words words cutlets en en papillote. Mne. de Conti- She preparing loin She invented invented the the method of ofpreparing

ANETHUM. ANETHlJM. ANETTI ANETH - See FENNEL. ANGEL CAKE -- See CAKE. ANGEL ANGEL FISH FISH (Squatina squatina). squatina). ANGE DE DE uEn MER -- A kind of dog dog fish, fish, with with a a large, flattened flattened body; body; the the pectoral pectoral and ventral fins fins seeming to to continue continue the lateral lateralline of the body in ventral line of all aU its thickness. The tail is big big and rounded, rounded, while while the back is covered with a rough brownish-green skin marked with small whitish whitish and and grey spots. The belly is is whitish. Angel Angel fish is is the the intermediary type type between between the family family of of sharks sharks and that of of ray ray and skates. On the French coasts, where it fishermen call this fish angelot or angel. ange/. abounds, the fishermen The flesh of of the the angel fish is quite quite delicate and and recalls recalls that Ali methods of preparation given for the latter of the ray. All are applicable applicable to angel fish.

of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, while while Mme. Mme. de de S6vign6 Sévigné had had a talent talent for for preparing preparing waffies. waffies. I.oub Louis XVXV - He He loved loved to to make make his his own own coffee, coffee, and and invented invented an an omelette omelette of of asparagus tips tips for Mme. Mme. du du Barry. Louis Louis XYI XVI -- Like his grandfather, grandfather, Louis Louis XlV, he had had the the sort sort of of appetite appetite nothing nothing could cou Id upset; upset; the the very very evening evening before his trial before the the opening opening of ofhis trial he he ate ate six six cutlets, cutlets, aa chicken and and several several eggs. Balzac Balzac (Honor6 de) -- Even Even ifif he he did did not not always eat his his fill fil! (because (because he he happened to to be be working) working) Balzac Balzac had by by nature nature an an astonishing astonishing capacity capacity of of absorption. And And the the menu menu he he orderd ordered for for himself himself alone alone at at Very's Very's one one day day was was not not excepexceptional: tional: Hors-d'euvre Hors-d'œuvre Eight Eight dozen dozen Ostend Ostend oysters oysters Twelve Twelve pri-sali pré-salé mutton mutton cutlets cutlets au au naturel naturel A A duckling duckling with with turnips turnips A brace of roast partridges A Normandy sole Sweet Sweet Fruit Fruit Coffee Coffee and and liqueurs liqueurs

Angelica Angelica

"0fi-:Tff:f[To*'

ANGELICA. ANGELrer.rE ANGÉLIQUE -- A A genus of of plants plants of of the the family ANGELICA. of which which the the prototype is i~ generally known known Umbelliferae, of

Whereupon Whereupon he he slept slept for for two two hours, hours, drank drank some sorne coffee coffee and and worked worked the the whole whole night night until until seven seven or or eight eight o'clock o'clock in in the the morning. morning. Victor Victor Hugo Hugo -- The The great great poet poet was was areal a real guzzler, guzzler, especially especially late not only only ate ate aa cutlet, cutlet, but but the the bone bone as as well, well, Jate in in life: life: he he not rn,nrhlrlO" it it loudly loudly between between his his powerful powerful jaws. Sometimes, Sometimes, crunching to amuse his grandchildren grandchildren after after aa meal, meal, he would would have have all ail to amuse the brought in: in: ragofit, ragoût, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables and and dessert. dessert. the left-overs left-overs brought These put with with seasoning seasoning into into aa large large salad salad bowl bowl and and ate, ate, These he he put sharing sharing the the dish dish with with the the enraptured enraptured children. children. He He called called the the concoction 'daubs'. 'daubs'. concoction LamartineLamartine - A A thin thin man man who who only liked ice cream. Stendhal -- A A fat fat man man with with aa penchant for for macaroni. macaroni. Stendhal Theophite Théophile Gautier Gautier -- A A delicate delicate palate palate who who did did not not allow allow himself himself to to be he deceived. deceived. It It was was he he who, who, at at the the Russian Russian court, court, observed to to the the chef chefthat thc:.t his his almond almond gflteau gâteau (which (which everyone p\lf'n"... np observed else adored) adored) was was nothing nothing more more nor nor less less than than pounded else macaroons. macaroons. 7frlrZola - He He had had aa fondness fondness for for shellfish shellfish although although he he called called them 'filth'. thern'filth'. Rman Renan -- Invited Invited one one day day to to aa house house where where the the hostess hostess desired desired that that each each guest guest in in turn turn should should contribute contribute to to the the Renan persistently persistently tried tried to to intervene intervene during during conversation, Renan conversation, the course course of of the the meal. meal. At At last last the the mistress mistress of of the the house house the turned to to him him and and said, said, 'Now, 'Now, Master Master Renan, Renan, it's it's your your turn.' turn.' turned

under the common name name of angelica, angelic herb. It is is a under

large appearlarge perennial perennial herb herb usually usuaJly grown grown as aa biennial. biennial. In In appearance itit closely closely resembles resembles cow cow parsley. parsley. ance Angelico archangelica grows grows wild wild in in the the Alps. Alps, in in the the Angelica and in in northern northern Europe. Europe. It It has has long long been been valued valued as as Pyrenees and Pyrenees stomachic, carminative carminative and and anti-spasmodic anti-spasmodic stimulant. stimulant. Toaa stomachic, day itit isis cultivated cultivated mostly mostly for for the the sake sake of ofits roots and and stalks. stalks. day its roots The fresh fresh stalks, stalks, candied candied in sugar, sugar, make make aa pleasant pleasant prepreThe Niort angelica, angelica, or or Nevers Nevers angelica, angelica, or or ChdteauChâteauserve called called Niort serve briand angelica. It It is is used used by by confectioners confectioners and and wine wine and and briand spirit merchants. me:rcl1arlts. spirit The roots, roots, which which come come principally principally from from Bohemia, Bohemia, are are The wrinkled, grey outside outside and and white white inside. inside. They They are are deceptive deceptive wrinkled, to the the palate: sweet sweet at at first, first, producing producing an an acrid acrid and and bitter bitter to after-taste. after-taste. roots also also contain contain aa volatile volatile oil, oil, angelicine, angelicine, angelic angelic The roots The acid, tannin, tannin, malic malic acid, acid, pectic pectic acid, acid, the the malates, malates, etc. etc. They They acid, very strong strong digestive digestive and and anti-dyspeptic an'ti-clvsnelltic properties. nr()nprtll'<: possess very for this this reason reason that that they they are are used used in the production of It isis for meliss cordials cordials and and other other liqueurs liqueurs such su ch as as chartreuse, chartreuse, meliss gin and and English English bitters. bitters. vespetro, gin liqueur. LreuEUR LIQUEUR lNo6r.reue ANGÉLIQUE -- Put Put I1 kg. kg. (2* (2! lb.) lb.) Angelica liqueur. cut into into small small pieces, and and I1 litre litre (lf, (11 pints, pints, stalks, cut angelica stalks, generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, in in aa bottling jar. jar. Macerate Macerate for for aa generous

28 28

ANGLET month. monlh. See that the jar jar is 1S hermetically hermetically sealed. Expose it il to the sun whenever whenever possible. Add from 600 to 10 800 g. (1* to l* lb.) lump lump sugar sugar dissolved in ln very little !iUle water. waler. Press the whole whole through a silk or fine muslin sieve. Leave to ta stand for a few hours. hours, then lhen filter filler the liqueur through soft paper. Decant into ioto bottles, boules, cork and seal. Candied angclica. lNcfrrqun ANGÉLIQUE coNFrrE CONfJTE -- Cut the angelica angelica Candied angelica. stalks 15- to ta 20-cm. 20-cm. (6- to 10 8-inch) pieces pieces and soak in cold stalks into înto 15water. Plunge them into a pan of boiling water water until unti) the pulp begins to give slightly when pressed with the fingers. fingers, Cool all under a cold tap, tap. drain and peel, taking care to remove aIl stringy parIs. stringy parts. fot 24 Macerate I cup sugar sugar to la I1 cup water for Macerale in a syrup of 1 hours. c (215'F.) Drain. 102'C. (215 Lü 102°C. F.) and pour it il over Drain, Boil the syrup to of angelica. angelîca. the pieces of Repeat this operation operation three days running. On the fourth day cook the syrup to small. pearl, i.e. 10 small i.e. 105"C. (221"F.). Put angelica into this syrup and bring it to bring il la the boil several times. lhis syrup Remove the pan from the fire and let it stand. stand. Drain the on aa sieve. sieve. Lay the pieces of angelica angelica on Lay them them on a them to dry in a marble sprinkle with fine sugar and put marb!e slab, sprinkle pullhem very slow aven. oven. Store in tins.

pepper pepper before before being being put put under under a grill. grill. It lt must be be cooked on a low flame. t'lame. When grilled. such such as as When fish fish with a delicate flesh fiesh is being grilled, whiting, fresh fresh sliced cod, etc., elc., it should be be dusted dusted with flour t'lour and and sprinkled sprinkled with with melted melted butter butter or or oil oil before before putting pUlling it it under the the grill. grill. Grilled Gri/led fish fish d à I'anglaise l'anglaise is is served served simply siroply with with melted butter or Maite MaÎtre d'hitel d'hôtel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and (optionally) potatoes, boiJed. pota loes, either steamed or boiled.

AI\GLAISE (Custard) - Variously flavoured custard made of yolks of egg, sugar and milk (see CREAM, Custard cream). ANGLER ANGLER (U.S. (V.S. AI\GLERFISID. ANGLERFISH). LorrE LOTTE DE MER, VIER, BAUDRoIE BAUDROŒThis fish is extremely ugly. Its foreparts are are very very broad while Its head, which is its hind-quarters hind-quaners are exceedingly narrow. ILs enormous, is very flat fiat and spiky. Along its ilS back it has three very mobile mobile filaments. The first and largest largest ends in a sort of all can lash flail, shaped like spearhead, which flail, shaped like aa spearhead, wh.ich can !ash out out in in ail as bait to directions. Il is believed that thal the angler uses this trus as directions. It attract a ttract its i ts prey. The skin skjn of or the angler is olive brown along the back and grey on the belly. It is flabby entirely without t'labby and sticky stick y and entirely similar to the scales. covered with bony bouy filaments similar scales. Instead Instead itil is covercd spikes on its head. bouillabaisse The mainly as an ingredient ingredient of of bouillabaisse The angler angler is used mainly (q.v.) it can be cooked in the same (q. v.) and other fish nsh soups, but bu! il way as cod or other large sea fish. should be In manner it it is is prepared, prepared, angler should ln whatever whatever manner since it is aa somewhat tasteless.fish. rather highly seasoned, sinec tasteLessfish. not widely In the whi1e plentiful, plentîful, is îs not the U.S.A. the the anglerfish, while steaks can can be in the marketed. be used used in marketed. White White fish tîsh fillets flilets or or steaks following recipes. DE MER A L'ANGLAISE t'lNcr.ltse - FiJlet Fillet Angler LorrE DE l'anglaise. LOTTE MER À Angler ià I'anglaise. Flatten them angler, and trim trÎm the fillets. fl1!ets. Flatten a medium-sized raw angler, and season with salt and pepper. Dip them in egg and breadServe crumbs and fry Ihem them in butter, browning on both sides. Serve crumbs dhdtel buller on aa long dish, covering the butter on the fish with Maitre d'hô/el (see BUTTER). Boild algler with various sauces. LorrE Boiled LonE DE MER BoITILLIE BOUlLLlE-courtSkin the angler and cut it into thick steaks. Cook in aa courl(see COD). Serve with as for Boiled with any bouillon (q.v.) as Boi/ed cod (see sauce suitable for boiled fish. sauce nsh. Lorrn DE MER -- Proceed as pflt6. rAre FRorD DE LOTTE r TÉ FROID Cold angler pâté. for Cold eel pie (see EEL). for nrsrs DE DE LOTTE Lorrr DE in white winc. wine. FILETS Fillets of angler braised in Trim and the fillets. AU vrN and flatten Mnn BRAISÉS sRArs6s AU MER VIN BLANC BLANC - TrÎm fiatten the pepper. Lay them in a buttered baking baking Season with salt and pepper. (see FUMET) with with white and moÎsten moisten with with Fish tin and FÎsh fumet fumel (sec tin wine. Cook in aa moderate oven. long dish dish wîth with aa white white wine Drain the fillets. Serve on on aa long the flUets. Drain (see SAUCE, White SAUCE, White made from from [he cooking stock stock (see sauce made the cooking sauce

re ANcELIeUE oE A LA Niort angelica ili la la sybarite. ANGÉLIQUE DE Ntonr N10RT À quality butter dozen or so best best quality syBARrrE SYBARITE - Have ready ready a a dozen or so dish filled with sticks of candied hol), a fruit dish ftlled Wilh brioches (kept hot), brioches.(kept angelica, a bottle angelica cream, aacarafe of iced water, a bOUle of carafe of of angeljea rlOl'lrl'III'C;: packet of Egyptian cigarettes. Light cigarette, sip aa mouthful of îced iced water, crunch a Lighl a cîgarelte, piece of of Niort angelica angelica with a piping hot bite of brioche, sip, breathe and savour savour a few drops ofangelica liqueur, and then repeat the whole process. proccss. If, according to A to whom whom we this Austin de Croze, Croze, to we owe [rus ustin de fresh, light perfume recipe, the the room room is is sprayed with with aa fresh, (verbena or an idea of of the or southernwood) one one can can have have an sybaritism. blessed joys of sybaritism. blessed ANGELS ON ANGELS ON HORSEBACK (English cookery).

A ANGES À ANGES

CHEvAL hors-d'euvre is prepared in the following cHEvAL -- This hot hors-d'œuvre manner. Take plump oysters out of their shells, drain their in aa very very beards, and wrap each one în and remove liquor aod remove their beards. metal skewers, on little metal rasher of bacon. thin thin rasher bacon. Thread them on fingers of of season with salt and and pepper, and grill. Arrange on fingers season toast. with breadcrumbs which sprinkle with Just Just before before serving, serving, sprinkle fried in butter. have been fried

In cookery, the to aa AI\GLAISE -- In the term anglaise is applied to ANGLAISE per egg), mixture composed eggs, oi! oil Ci egg), salt composed of of eggs, teaspoon per mixture $ teaspoon and.pepper. and .pepper. Various ingredients which which have have to to be be dipped dipped in in breadbreadVarious mixture, and are are said to be crumbs are first coated with this mixture, 'd l'anglaise'. I'anglaise'. They are then then sautécd sautOed in in butter or oil, or deepdeep'à fried.

sauces). DE MER fRITE FRIrE -- Cut the flUets fillets of angler Fried angler. LonE LorrE DE in in milk. milk, flour lightly, lightly, and and dcep-fry deep-fry in into strips. strips. Dip Ihem them in inro boiling faL fat. garnished with napkin, garnished with Drain and and season. season. Serve Serve on on aa napkin, parsley and fried parsley and Icmon. lemon. frîed is Lorrn DE MER -- This pie is pflt6. P,\TÉ nArE CHAUD cHAUD DE DE LOTTE angler pâté. Hot al1gJer stuffing, in in or whiting sluffing, from fillets fillets of angler, with pike or made from (see EEL). Hot eel pie (see the same same way as as HOl the DE LOTTE LorrE DE DE MER MER -- CU! the MATELoTE DE Cut the angler. MATELOTE Matelot of angler. matelote in white white fillets of angler angler into squares. squares. Cook them them en malelote fillelS (see EEL). matelote (see EEL). red wine, as as for for Eel en en male/ole or red

preparations (A L') -- Name given to Name given to viJrious various preparations ANGLAISE ANGLAISE CA (see MUTTON, Leg Zeg of mullon) mutton) or or in water (see cooked in usually cooked (see CHICKEN, English boiled chicken). in white stock (see in English boi/ed term'also applies to the following fish: fish poached in This lermalso grilled or in breadcrumbs; court-bouillon (q.v.);; fish or fried in fish grilled (see potatoes, boiled in in water or or steamed (sec vegetables, mainly potatoes, POTATOES, POlafOeS Potatoes lid '·anglaise). l'anglaise). porssoxs GRILLÉS ffsh ài l'anglaise. l'lNcl,tIsr -I'anglaise. POISSONS cnn-rfs fAA L'ANGLAISE Grilled Gdlld f:ls.b This method can applied to all fish. fish. The The large fish fish are are CUI cut can be be applied to ail This slices or the 5ma)] small ones ones are are cooked cooked whole, after after into slices or steaks, steaks, the having aa few few slits in them. The osh, or sliced, sliced, is is slits cut cut in them. The fish, whole or having seasoned with with salt oil or or melted melted butter and seasoned salt and coated with oîl butter and and

from Bayonne, Bayonne, km. (2* miles} miles) from AI\GLET -- Town Town sÎtualed situated 44 km. ANGLET here, dry dry and and near the sea. is produced here, sea. A famous famous white wine is is called called Vin Vin de de sable. sable. heady, which is Rock salt salt also cornes comes from from Anglet. Rock 29 29

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.I,I,IGOULEME A town ANGOULtME -- A town in in the the Charente where where famous brandies brandies are are distilled. distilled. A A noted notOO partridge partridge pdtd piité is is made made at Angoul6me Angoulême.

w:rth cCpes with cèpes sautded sautéed d à la bordelaise; gigorit or lamb's pluck; stuffed of variouspdtis stuffed cabbage cabbage calldfarie; calledJarée; a selection selection ofvarious pâtés such as of Barbezieux and as pdti paté de foie Joie gras gras truffé of and Angoul€me, Angoulême,

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partridge partridge pdtd pâté of Ruffec, Ruffec, lark pdtds pâtés of Exideuil. Sausages, Sausages, saveloys, puddings, chitterlings chiflerlings and and other other 'charcuterie charcuterie sa ve loys , black puddings, are all ail excellent. excellent. Among the the sweet dishes and and cakes cakes there are marvels, marvels, a kind of of fritter; cheesecake cheesecake made made of of Ruffec cheese; chocolate chocolate tartlets tartlets flavoured with brandy. brandy. WinesThe wines wines of of the the Angoumois Angoumois region are mediocre mediocre Wines - The and and are are rarely rarely drunk d runk outside the the province. province. They They are are excellent for for distilling distilling purposes, porposes, however. Charente cognac is made made from these wines wines (see (see COGNAC). COGNAC).

LNCOUVIOIS This area is situated between ANGOUMOIS - This between Poitou Poitou and

P€rigord, Périgord, Limousin Limousin and and Saintonge. Such a neighbourhood neighbourhood could could not not help help but but turn tum the the inhabitants in habitants into into gastronomes, gastronomes, considering considering the the excellence excellence of of its food products. products. Ground Ground and and feathered feathered game game abound abound in.Angoumois. in- Angoumois. Freshwater of all Freshwater fish fish of aIl kinds kinds are are to to be be found found in its Îts rivers; the Touvre, Touvre, which which flows flows past past Angoul€me, Angoulême, is is still, stiJl, as as Clement Marot Marot said, said, 'paved 'paved with with trout, trout, edged with wÎth eels ecls and crayfish,' crayfish,' and and these these delicious delicious fish fish and shellfish are made into into mouthwatering watering matelotes. matelotes. Various Various species species of of mushrooms mushrooms are are gathered gathered in in AngouAngoumois. mois. In In the the quarries quarries around around Angoul6me Angoulême cultivated mushmushrooms rooms are are grown; grown; the the delicacy delicacy of of their their flavour fla vour rivals rivais the the famous famous mushrooms mushrooms cultivated cuhivated in in the the quarries quarries around around Paris. Paris. Cattle Cattle bred bred in in this this region region produce produce excellent beef. beef. FirstFirstclass c1ass poultry poultry is is raised raised there, there, Barbezieux Barbezieux chickens chickens being being particularly particularly esteemed. esteemed. Culimry Friture charentaise charentaise composed composed of of Culinary ryecialities speciallties -- Friture various various small small fish; fish; cagouilles, cagouilles, stuffed st uffed or or in in ragofit. ragoût. (By cagouilleswe cagouilles we mean mean snails. snails. The The inhabitants inhabitants ofCharente of Charente are are so so fond of them them that that they, they, themselves, themselves, are are nicknamed nicknamed cagouilfond of lards.) lards.) Tourtiire (raised pie pÎe containing containing chickar chicken and and salsify); salsify): Tourtière (raised jugged jelly; preserved jugged hare, hare, to to which which is is added added redcurrant redcurrant jeUy; preserved duck,which is served served with with potatoes potatoes sautEed sautéed in in goose goose fat, fat, or or duck, which is

ANGREC ANGREC - A A group group of of plants; plants; some sorne of of the best known known of which grow in in R€union Réunion Island and Madagascar, others on the the Cape of of Good Hope Hope and on the the west coast of of Africa. Africa. The most most important important species is is the Angraeanmfragrans; Angraecum Jragrons; its leaves the/aham, tea of of R€union Réunion Island, Island, which which is is leaves furnish furnish the faharn, or tea widely widely used used in the the same same way way as as China China tea. tea.

ANIMELLES ANIMELLES -- This This is is aa culinary term term for the the testicles testîcles of male male animals, animals, in in particular particular those those of of rams. rams. In ln the the past, past, animelles animelles were were very very much much in in vogue vogue in in France, France, Spain and and Italy. Italy. For For recipes recipes see see OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Animelles. Animelles.

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AIYISEED ANISEED (Sweet (Sweet cnmin). cumin). ANrs ANIS vERr VERT - Plants Plants with wilh ovoid ovoid seeds, contracted at at the the top, top, with with aa ribbed ribbed surface surface seeds, slightly slightly contracted and and short short stiff stiff greyish-green greyish-green hairs. hairs. 30 30

ANJOU proportion of of The proportion several preparations. for several sugar is is used used for preparations. The of for the preparation it is is intended for When it aniseed varies. When preparation of (l oz., 3 tablespoons) aniseed are added g. (1 cake,25 aniseed cake, 25 g. (18 oz., g. (18 castor suga If, on on the the other 2f, cups) 500 g. oz., 2* cups) castor sugar. to to 500 r. If, sponge cakes, cakes, biscuits, flavour sponge to fiavour hand, it is to to be hand, it is be used used to go up proportion of aniseed can can go up to custards or creams, the proportion (18 oz., g. (18 o2.,2* cups) sugar. 500 g. cup) per 500 100 grams (4 oz., i cup) 2* cups) fine and rub on on aa fine aniseed carefully carefully and Method. Pick over the aniseed for 12 12 hours. hours. oven for stalks. Dry in aa slow oyen sieve to remove the stalks. fine sieve sieve to to and sift sift through through aa fine lump sugar, sugar, and Pound with with lump Pound in the the obtain ob tain aa very fine powder. Pound whatever remains in sifted. has been been sifted. until the whole has sieve until jar or and sealed jar or tin, tin, and hermetically sealed sugar in in aa hermetically this sugar Keep this store in aa dry place. satisfactory fiavouring flavouring Aniseed-flavoured sugar is aa more satisfactory Aniseed-fiavoured inrather strong strong and and inwhich is is rather essenc€, which agent than than aniseed essence, agent flavour. aniseed smell smell than fiavour. an aniseed clined to have more of an c1ined

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The seeds sold in the shops must be c1eansed cleansed of the soil which often to them. them. Parsley seed, which seed, with with the the hairs often sticks sticks to

The best aniseed liqueur. The best aniseed Aniseed-based liqueur. AI\IISETTE -- Aniseed-based ANISETIE is also also anisette is liqueur in France France is made in Bordeaux. Dutch anisette liqueur repute. held in high repute. held LIQUEURS, (For the preparation of see LIQUEURS, liqueur see of the the liqueur the preparation (For Anise or anisette liqueur.)

is sometimes sometimes fraudulently sold pâtisserie anianisold as pdtisserie removed, is seed. Aniseed is used in confectionery confectionery and and distilling. pAINs À (Ahatian pastry). cookies (Alsatian pastry). PAINS A L'ANIS L'ANIs - Mix Aniseed oookies

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g. (18 500 g. (18 oz., 500 12 eggs oz., 2| cups) cups) fine fine castor sugar sugar and and 12 in aa eggs in copper basin. basin. Beat the mixture with aa whisk as as for for an an ordinary sponge cake. (18 oz., When the the mixture is g. (18 When is weil well whisked, add 500 whisked, add 500 g. (7 oz., g. (7 4t cups) cornfiour cornflour 4| cups) sieved fiour, flour, 200 g. oz., scant 2 cups) (2 oz., and 50 g. g. (2 well. oz,l1 cup) aniseed (in grains). Mix weil. Drop tablespoons of the wetted baking the mixture onto aa wetted sheet. Place in a warm place to dry. When the cookies begin to rise slightly, slightly, bake in a cool oyen. oven. Aniseed-flavoured Aniseed-flavoured sugrr. SUCRE ANIsf -- Aniseed-fiavoured Aniseed-flavoured sugar. sucR"E ANISÉ

and harmony where ANJOU -- Land of of sweetness the cuisine anisine where the sweetness and ANJOU natural beauty. beauty. and wines match its natura] and gastronome and great gastronome native of of and aa native Henry Coutant, Coutant, aa great Henry its skies, harmon'Its cuisine is as as mellow mellow as as its skies, harmoncuisine is wrote: 'Its Anjou, wrote: and of Anjou's wittiest wittiest sons sons and one of as its horizons. Did not one ious as Anjou great gourmet, gounneL the say that that Anjou humourist Curnonsky, Curnonsky, say aa great the humourist gastronomy what Racine And Coutant Coutant literature?' And is to gastronomy Racine is is to to literature?' is went on: on: like the humour humour ofits ofits in inhabitants: 'As to its wines, are like 'As habitants : wines, they are

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ANJOU ANJOU light and and sparkling, sparkling, of of incomparable incomparable tas taste, but atattimes timesalso also light te, but malicious and and treacherous treacherous towards towards those those who who have have no no idea idea malicious how to to face face up to their up to their caprices caprices with preparation. with adequate adequate preparation. how Admirable wines, wines, however, however, which which merit merit one one of of the the first first Admirable places among great wines among the the great wines of France.' of France.' places Anjou cattle, give meat cattle, bred for food, bred for food, give meat of quality. ofexcellent excellent quality. Anjou The Maine Maine region region cattle cattle are are famous quality of famous for for the the quality of their their The meat, and and so so are are the the Cholet Cholet cattle. cattle. meat, pork isis of Anjou pork greatest delicacy, of the the greatest delicacy, and and various various locally locally Anjou potted park pork mince, made charcuterie charcuterie -- rillettes, rillettes, potted mince, andouilles, andouilles, made (U.5. blood) puddings -- are black (U.S. scrusages, black blood) puddings are admirable admirable sausages, just the 'bacchic sspurs', as Rabelais Rabelais called called them, them, just the thing thing to to 'bacchic purs', as make one one appreciate appreciate the the fragrant fragrant wines wines of of the the Anjou Anjou vinevinemake yards. yards. Anjou chickens chickens are are tender plump, and tender and and plump, and make make excellent excellent Anjou fricassées. fricassies. 'The fish fish which which the generously offers the Loire Loire so so generously offers us us between between 'The Saumur and and Champtoceaux Champtoceaux isis more more delicate delicate than than anywhere anywhere Saumur else,'declares gourmand. an Anjou Anjou gourmand. else,' declares an pike are Its pike are among among the the finest; finest; its its shad, shad, its its tench tench and and its its Its bream know know no no rivaIs. rivals. For pike and For pike and shad, shad, the the cooks cooks of bream of passed on Anjou have have passed generation to on from from generation generation the to generation Anjou the for aa succulent succulent sauce, (white butter), sauce, beurre beurre blanc blanc (white butter), the recipe for the thste ofwhich of which is aa fragrant fragrant delight. delight. Tench Tench and and bream, creamy taste bream, particularly bream, bream, are are cooked cooked chiefly chiefly with with aa sorrel sorrel stuffing particularly stuffing which makes aa savoury savoury foundation foundation for for their their flesh. flesh. The Loire salmon salmon are are famous; famous; they they are are cQnsidered The censidered the the best best all French river river salmon. salmon. of ail is excellent excellent in in Anjou. The The whole Poultry is whole worId world knows knows of of capon de de la fliche and chicken chicken du du Mans. Mans. First-class capon flèche and First-class game game is is found here. here. also found green cabbages Anjou vegetable produce is superb. superb. The The green cabbages of of as they this region, the piochous, as they are are caIled, called, are are weil well known known and are made made into into those fricassées and which delight delight the lovers the loyers Jricassles which of country dishes. The Anjou Anjou orchards produce excellent The orchards produce excellent fruit; fruit; pears, and cider apples, plums and dessert and and strawberries. strawberries. 'We must 'We must pay homage homage to the fruits of Anjou, which which form form aa vegetable aristocracy of province of aristocracy of this this province France,' said of France,' said gastronome Henry Coutant. Coutant. Anjou cheeses are renowned. The The famous Angers Angers crémets cremeE (soft fresh cream cream cheeses) should really be classed classed among among the the sweet courses rather than the cheeses. These crémets, sweet crimets. which which eaten with are generally eaten with sugar, sugar, can can also also be be sprinkled sprinkled with with salt and flavoured with chives.

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With With food quality available food of of such such quality available the master cooks themaster cooksand and cordons cordons bleus of Anjou bleus of Anjou are are naturally naturally noted noted for for their theircuisine. caisine. Culinary Culinary speciaUties specialities -- Saumur (greaves); Saumur rillettes,' rillettes; rillons rillons(greaves); potted potted park pork mince,' puddings and mince; white white puddings and other other charcuterie charcaterie made pork of from the made from fine pork the fine of the the region. region. Bouilleture, Bouilleture,aa kind kind of of matelote matelote ofvarious principally fishes, principally of various fishes, eels; eels; stuffed stuffed shad; shad; bream pike or bream inin butter; butter; pike or shad shad au au beurre beurre blanc (white butter); blanc (white butter); matelotes matelotes of perch with offreshwater with freshwater fish; fish; perch prunes; prunes; fish pdti. stews; eel eel pâté. fish stews; Rump Rump of pig's fry; of veal veal àd l'angevine; gogue; fricassée I'angevine; pig's of fry ; gogue; fricassie of chicken; partridge àd lala mancelle; (boiled green chicken; partridge mancelle ; chouée green chouie (boiled cabbage cabbage sprinkled sprinkled with green cabbage; with butter) butter);;fricassée of green cabbage; fricassie of lads with fricassée green sa of cauliflower; cauliflower; green salads with walnut walnut ail. oil. fricassde of Well-known Well-known cheeses cheeses include include the the Saumur Saumur chouzé; chouzi; caillecaillebotte botte àd la la chardonette, chardonette, and the Saumur and the Saumur and and Angers Angers crémets. crimets. Other Other famous famous dishes dishes are (similar are bijane bijane or 'magpie soup' or 'magpie soup' (similar to to the the Saintonge Saintonge broth) broth) -- bread bread crumbled crumbled into into sweetened sweetened red red wine; roast meat wine; roast (maize meal meat with with hot hot wine; wine; millière milliire (maize and rice rice meal and porridge); porridge); fouée (a sort girdle cake of fiat flat girdle sort of cake made made of of bread bread fouie (a dough, (flat cakes dough, spread spread with with butter);fouace butter);fouace (fiat cakes baked baked in in the the

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Bottles Botties and a glass for Anjou wine

grapes. The The Cabernet from the the Gamay, and Groslot grapes. from C6t and Gamay, Côt rosé ros6 is (as its name indicates) produced exclusively from the Cabernet grape. all into verse: The Angevin Angevin poet Marc Leclerc has put it aIl

of'fouaciers ofLern€ hearth). Rabelais speaks 'fouaciers of Lerné (or Lernay), sp€aks of Lernay), which shows how long these cakes have of Maine-et-Loire,' which known. There There are are also also guillaret or échaudé; ichaudi; Angers been known. gui/laret or been guillaret are and the gui/laret are aniseed biscuits; prune pie. pie. The fouace fouace and bisaits; prune not delicate pastries; in the past they used to be sold in the in western western France. Their main main quality markets and at fairs fairs in was to provoke thirst. Wines Wines -- The Anjou wines include those of the Angers and (which have Saumur regions have aa right right to to the the appellations appellations Saumur regions (which 'Anjou' and 'Saumur'). 'Saumur'). Ch6nin grape. White wines. wines. These are made from the Chénin White Saumur. Very dry white wines wines with with aa strong Saumur. Very dry strong bouquet. process of the They stand up They up very very weIl well to to the the fermenting fermenting process semi-sparkling méthode mdthode champenoise to to give very very pleasant semi-sparkling grown on the banks of and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. The grapes are grown Thouet. Brézé, Brezg, the tributary, the Thouet. the Loire and on those of its tributary, Parnay and Montsoreau Parnay Montsoreau are three of of the principal vineyards. with a wines with de la la Iniire. Fine, elegant white white wines Coteawc de Coteaux Loire. Fine, produced here; get dryer every strong bouquet are produced here; these strong bouquet are these get year. The best-known are those year. Epir6, Saventhose of Epiré, best-known vineyards are nidres (which has a right to a special appellation), Rochenières appellation). la Rocheaux-Moines and and la la Coulée de Serrant, Serrant, both both on on the the right aux-Moines Coul€e de bank. vineyard that was was preLa Coulée Coul€e de de Serrant is a walled vineyard chamberlain Perthus Perthus de Brie along sented by Louis XI to his chamberlain chAteau which has since disappeared. disappeared. with a château It was was at at la la Roche-aux-Moines, Roche-aux-Moines, on 12L4, that 27 July It on 27 lruJy 1214, that John Lackland was was defeated defeated by Philippe John by Louis XI, XI, son son of Philippe Auguste. The The vineyard, vineyard, planted monks of SaintAuguste. planted by by the the monks Nicolas Nicolas of Angers, dates back to the eleventh eleventh century century A.D. Coteaux du &t Layon. Coteaux Layon. Liqueur-like aromatic white white wines made from made from over-ripe grapes ('la pourriture noble' or 'noble trot', ot', Botrytis cenerea). cenerea). great liqueur-like The great liqueurJike Anjou wines are at their best in the Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. The Bonnezeaux and Quarts-de-Chaume appellations. mentioning -- excellent Coteaux de l'Aubance I'Aubance are also worth mentioning excellent River Aubance. white wines from the banks of the River Red wines. The The red red wines wines of Anjou and and Saumur Red wines. Saumur come from the Cabernet grape. The best known of them (and for good reason) Saumur-Champigny with with its its exquisite good reason) is is Saumur-Champigny It was strawberry bouquet and and deep deep ruby ruby colour. colour. It strawberry was Curnonsky's favourite wine. Rosi The rosés ros6s of Anjou Rosé wines. The Anjou and and Saumur, velvety or well known and much in demand. They are dry, are weB are made

Voici les les vins du Layon, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé, Beaulieu, Touarc6, Faye, Doux coum' le miel au rayon, Chauds coum' le soleil qui raye, Voilà Voild la Coulée Coulie d' Serrant, S avenniC r e s, Saint-Barthélemy, Saint- Bar thC lemy, Savennières, Qui tiennent tiennent ben aussi leu rang d'La Possotuiire, La Possonnière, canss d' Avec ceuss Ceux de dc Saumur Saumur et d'alentour, Varrains ou Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-C yr-en- Bourg, Mont Montsoreau, soreau, Parnay, Dampierre, gofrt d' pierre, Et leu si plaisant plaisant goût qu'd la L' champigny Ia couleur couleur L' champigny qu'à Et la senteur des des framboises framboèses Et l'on I'on n' sait quel est l' meilleur Vin de de tuffeau nffeau ou ou vin d'ardoèse. d'ardoCse.

Here are the wines of Layon, Touarc6, Faye, Beaulieu, Rablay, Touarcé, Sweet as honey in the comb, Glowing like the sun's ray, There is the Coulée Coul€e de Serrant, S avennidres, Sain t- Barthélemy, Savennières, Saint-Barth€lemy, That are every bit as good Possonnidre As those of La Possonnière Of Saumur and its neighbours Varrains Varrains or Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Saint-Cyr-en-Bourg, Montsoreau, Dampierre, Montsoreau, Parnay, Dampierre, And the raspberry-scented Champigny Champigny The colour of rubies Laced with the tang of the soil slate Chalk or sla te Who can say which is best. Good quality marc brandies (distilled from the husks of grapes after after the wine has has been made) and and sorne some highly grapes the wine been made) d'Angers are also proesteemed liqueurs such as Guignolet d'Angers duced in this region. Segr€ cider, which is excellent. excellent. Finally, there is Segré

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ANNA POT POTATOES ANNA ATOES ANTISEPSIS. ANTISEPSIE nvnsnpsrr - - Method ANTISEPSIS. Method wruch which aims aims atatthe the preventionof putrefaction or of putrefaction orinfection infection by prevention useof ofchemical byuse chemical substances. The The salting salting and and smoking smoking of meatactually substances. actually conconof meat stitutes an an application application of of antiseptic antiseptic treatment. stitutes treatment.The Theuse useof of vinegar in in marinades, marinades, and preserving vinegar and of ofsalt saltor forpreserving alcoholfor or alcohol purpose.With fruit, also also achieves achieves this fruit, thispurpose. With exceptions, exceptions, the useof of theuse preservativesfor antiseptics as generally antiseptics as preservatives forfood foodsubstances substances isisgenerally practice can condemned. The Thepractice condemned. can be bedangerous, dangerous, except exceptininthe the qualified food hands of hands of gualified chemists,who food chemists, who use, when reguired, required, use,when selected substances substances which selected which are arestrictly strictly controlled controlled by byapproappropriate laws. priate laws. ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTICS. ANTISEPTIQUES lNnsnprrer.rEs - - Substances Substanceswhich whichcountercounterputrefaction, fermentation act putrefaction, (See PRESERact fermentation and and infection. infection. (See PRESERVATION.) vATroN.)

for Anna Anna potaloes Casserole for Dotatoes Casserole

(A V) ANVERSOISE ANVERSOISE (À L') -- Method Method of preparing large large and of preparing and pieces of small small pieces of meat, meat, calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads and andeggs. eggs.These Theseare are garnished with garnished with hop hopstaJks potatoes stalks in in butter butter or orcream cream and and potatoes fried fried in in butter. butter.

pomvrns DE POTATOES. DE TERRE rERRE ANNA ANNA -- A ANNA POT ATOES. POMMES A method method of of potatoes cut cut in in thin round slices, thin round slices, cooked preparing potatoes cooked in in butter butter (See POT in aa special or aa covered special utensil utensil or covered terrine. terrine. (See POTATOES.) in A TOES.)

AOUDZÉ AOUDZE -- Name given in Name given in Ethiopia Ethiopia to to aastrongly strongly spiced spiced sauce sauce whichis which is made pimento, ginger, ginger, cloyes made of of pimento, cloves and and an an aromatic plant somewhat aromatic plant somewhat similar similar toto thyme, known asas thymeoknown zégakelie. zigakelie. The The Ethiopians Ethiopians serve serve this this sauce sauce with with aadish dish which which they they cali call brondo, brondo, of of which which they they are are very very fond. fond.

porrauns DE ANNETIE POT POTATOES. ANNEITE ATOES. POMMES DE TERRE rERRE ANNETTE ANNETTE -Prepared like potatoes, but potatoes should like Anna Anna potatoes, Prepared but the the potatoes be should be (q.v.). (See (See POTATOES.) shredded into into fine fine julienne strips shredded strips (g.v.). POTATOES.)

APÉRITIF pharmacopoeia recognised APERITIF -- The The old old pharmacopoeia recognised major major bitters (roots of parsley, fenneJ, bitters (roots of parsley, fennel, asparagus asparagus and and butcher's butcher's broom) (roots ofmaidenhair and minor minor bitters broom) and bitters (roots fern, couchof maidenhair fern, couchgrass, grass, thistle, rest-harrow and thistle, rest-harrow and strawberry-plant). strawberry-plant). The The term term as as used used today today only only applies applies to to stimulants stimulants of appetite. of appetite. Apéritifs Aperitifs served greater or served in in cafés cafts are are drinks drinks of of aa greater or lesser lesser degree degree of of bitterness, bitterness, variously variously flavoured, flavoured, which which are are drunk drunk neat or diluted diluted with generally have neat or with water. water. They They generally have aa strong strong alcoholic alcoholic content, content, because because the which they are they are the essences essences of of which composed (which isis composed are not soluble alcohol (which are not soluble except except in in strong strong alcohol why go cloudy why they they go cloudy when when mixed mixed with water) and and this this alcohol with water) alcohol content great extent content to to aa great nullifies the extent nullifies action of of the the the beneficial beneficial action bitters. bitters. But, (or perhaps But, through perhaps through through sheer sheer force force of of habit habit (or through imagination), people think imagination), sorne some people think that have no that they they have no appetite appetite unless (or apéritifs). unless they they have have their their daily daily apéritif ap€ritif (or aperitifs). ItIt isis this this fact fact which phrase that which has has led led to to the the coining coining of of the the phrase that ifif an an apéritifcan ap€ritif can open open the the appetite, appetite, itit does does so so with with aa skeleton skeleton key. key. Be Be this this as as itit may, may, the the apéritif was, and ap€ritif was, and still still is, is, aa traditional traditional rite rite in in certain certain circles. circles.

Annona Annona 1. l. Cherimoya Cherimoya 2. 2. BulJock's Bullock's heart heart 3. 3. Sour sop

ANNONA. ANONE ANNONA. ANoNE-- The annona or custard apple apple is fruit is the fruit of of a family of of trees (Annonaceae) native to to tropical tropical America America but cultivated cultivated in southern California and and tropical tropical Asia. The The cherimoya (Annona (Annona cherimolia), one cherimoya one of of the the most most popular globe artichoke varieties, resembles aa globe artichoke in in both both colour colour and and shape, with the difference that its skin is is shiny. shiny. It It has has cream cream coloured flesh, less white than coloured (Annona than that of the sour sour sop sop (Annona muricata), which is larger and more is larger more acid in in flavour. flavour. The The sweet sweet sop (Annona squamosa), which sorne some people say say is is the the true true apple, is particularly popular popular in custard apple, in the the West West Indies Indies and and has a sweet, sweet, custard-like custard-like flavour flavour and aa strong strong scent. Annonas scent. Annonas are only eaten raw.

ANON -- This fish, one of of the the varieties of ANON of haddock, haddock, abounds abounds

vast numbers in in the the English English Channel. in vast Its flesh flesh is is very Channel. Its very layered. white, and layered. white, The fishing season mainly January The season for it is mainly January and and February. February. the U.S.A. hake hake and and cusk cusk (usually sold fillets) are In the sold in in fillets) are very very to this this fish. fish. similar to For cookery cookery purposes purposes it it is is treated treated as For (q.v.). as whiting whiting (g.v.). ANTHRACITE -- Coal Coal remarkable remarkabJe for for its its great purity; one ANTHRACITE great purity; one of the the fuels fuels which which is is used, used, in in preference preference to to others, others, for heating of for heating and cooking. cooking. and

ANTIDOTE. coNrRE-porsoN CONTRE-POISON Substance capable of ANTIDOTE. Substance capable of neutralising the the toxic toxic properties of of another another substance, by neutralising substance, by forming with with it it an an insoluble insoluble non-toxic non-toxic combination. combination. forming

La Moitte afler a painting by Lancrel an engraving La Partie Partie de de Plàisir, Plaisir, an engraving by by de de Moitte after a painting by Lancret

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APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS The The traditional traditional ap6ritif apéritif 'rite' -rite' is is tending tending to to disappear. disappear. Those Those who who used used to to look look upon upon itit as an an occasion occasion to to meet meet their their friends or simply simply as aa form fonn of of relaxation relaxation are are beginning beginning to to friends or substitute substitute for for this'agreeablefaux this 'agreeablefaux pas pas of of the the pdlate'perhaps pi1[ate' perhaps aa fruit fruit juice, juiee, or or aa glass glass of of mineral minerai water, water, or -- better betler still stillsimply simply aa glass glass of of wine. wine.

14. 14. A A dessert dessert without wit hout cheese cheese is is like 1ike a beautiful bea utiful woman woman

with with one one eye. cye. 15. 15. One One can can learn lcam to to cook. cook, but but aa restaurateur restaurateur is is born. born.

16. The The most most indispensable indispensable quality quality of of a cook is is punctupunctual.ity; alîty; it should should also also be be that that of of aa guest. guesl. 17. 17. To To wait wait too too long long for for aa late-comer late-comer is is to to show show aa lack lack of consideration consideration for for all all those those present. present. 18. 18. He He who who receives receives his his friends friends and and gives gives. no no personal personal attention attention to to the tbe meal meal which which is is being being prepared prcpared for for them, them, isis not not worthy worthy of of having having friends. friends. 19. 19. The The mistress mistress of of the the house house must must always always make make sure sure that that her her coffee coffee is is excellent, excellent, and and the the master master of of the the house house that that his his wines wines are are choice. choice. 20. 20. To To invite invite someone sorne one is is to to take take charge charge of of his his happiness happiness during during the the time time he he spends spends under under your your roof. roof. Some Sorne of of Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's aphorisms, aphorisms, notably notably the the one one which which claims daims that that 'One 'One can can learn learn to to cook, cook, but but aa restaurateur restaurateur isis born' born' are are rather rather disputable disputable!! There Thcre are are many many other other gastronomic gastronomie aphorisms. aphorisms, We We quote quote some sorne which which are are attributed attributed to to the the actor actor Des Des Essarts, Essarts, who, who, according according to to aa contemporary contemporary author, author, had had an an appetite appetite proproportionate porüonate to to his his corpulence corpuleoce (Des (Des Essarts Essarts was was very very fat) fat) and and was wit- qualities was as as much much aa gastronome gastronome as as aa man man of ofwitqualities which which often oflen go go together. together. Some daim that that he he was was the the precursor precursor of of BrillatBrillatSorne people people claim Savarin. Savarin. AA good good dinner dinner would wou Id put put him him into into good good spirits. spirits. LIe He would would eloquently eloquently analyse analyse the the qualities qualities of of each each dish dish and and create crea te amusingly amusingly bizatre bizafre combinations combinations of of words: words: 'Good 'Good cookery cookery isis the the food food of of aa clear clear conscience.' conscience.' 'Let the the leg leg of ofmutton multon be be awaited awaited as as the the first first lovers' lovers' meetmeeting, caught in in the the act, act, golden golden as as aa young young ing, mortified mortified as as aa liar liar caught German German girl, girl, and and bloody bloody as as aa Carib.' Carib.' 'Take 'Take advantage advantage of of the the gracious gracious condescension condescensÎon of of the the elegant calf's kidney, kidney, multiply multiply its its metamorphoses; metamorphoses; you you can, can, eJegant calf's without without giving givlng itit offence, offence, call cali itit the the chameleon chameleon of of cuisine.' cuisine.' 'Make 'Make of of an an egg egg an an amiable amiable intermediary intermediary which which comes cornes between betweeo the the various various parts parts of of food food to to bring bring about about difficult difficult reconciliations.' reconcil iations.' 'Mutton 'Mutlon is is to to lamb lamb what what aa millionaire millionaire uncle uncle is is to to his his poverty-stricken poverty-strîcken nephew.' oephew.' 'A 'A vineJeaf vine-leaf wrapped wrapped round round aa partridge partridge brings brings out oût its its quality, quality, just just as as the the barrel barrel of of Diogenes Diogenes brought brought forth forth the the qualities qualities of ofthe the great great thinker.' thinker.' 'Never 'Never forget forget that that the the pheasant pheasant must must be be awaited awaited like like the the pension ofaa man man of ofletters letters who who has has never never written written epistles epistles to to pension of the the ministers m.inisters or or madrigals madrigals to to their their mistresses.' mistresses.' Des Des Essarts, Essarts, born born at at Langres Langres in in 1740, 1740, was was one one of ofthe the best best actors actors of ofthe the Com€die-Frangaise. Comédie-Française. He He died died suddenly suddenly in1793, in 1793, on on hearing hearing ofthe of the arrest arrest ofone of one ofhis of bis best best friends. friends. The The poets poets and and prose prose writers writers of ofthe the past past have have also also formuformulated lated gastronomical gastronomical aphorisms aphorisms and and axioms. axioms. Horace, Horace, who who set setgreat grea tstore storeby bythe thecleanliness c1ean liness of ofthe the table, table, and and above above all ail insisted insisted that that one one should should be be able able to to see see one's one's reflection reftection mirrored m.irrored in in the the plates plates and and glasses, glasses, wrote wrote as as follows: follows: 'The 'The stomach stomach heaves heaves when when one one receives receives from from aa valet valet aa goblet goblet bearing bearing the the greasy greasy imprint imprint of of his his sauce-stained sauce-stained fingers, fingers, and and when when one one sees sees at at the the bottom boltom the the filthy filthy dregs dregs collected collected there.' there.' Plutarch Plutarch makes makes this this statement statement -- which which he he attributes attributes to to Aemilius Aemilius Paulus, Paulus, the theconqueror conqueror of ofPersia: Persia: 'The 'Tbesame sameintelliintelligence genceisis required required toto marshal marshal an an arrny army inin battle battle as as to to order orderaa good gooddinner. dinner. The Thefirst firstmust must be beas asformidable formidable as aspossible, possible, the the second second as as pleasant pleasantas as possible, possible, to to the the participants.' participants.' In In these these words words Plutarch Plutarch gives gives aa valuable valuable lesson lesson to to all al! would-be would-be gastronomes, gastronomes, to to those those who who frequently frequently compose compose menus menuswhich which would would give give no no pleasure pleasure to to aa true truegastronome. gastronome. Rabelais Rabelais categorically categorically declares declares that that only only 'candle-lit' 'candie-lit'

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Doctor Doctor Ramain, Ramain, who who calls calls himself himself an an 'independent 'independent gastronome', gastronome', has has selected selected what wha t he he considers considers to to be be the the best best ap€ritifs and lists lists them them in in the the following following order: order : apéritifs and L1. The The best best vintage vintage brut brui Champagne, served served well weil chilled chilled and and sparkling sparkling with with tiny tiny bubbles. bubbles. 2. 2. The The still still Champagne Champagne Blanc Blanc de de Blancs. Blancs. 3. 3. A A glass glass of of genuine genuine old old sherry; sherry; or, or, better beUer still, an an authentic authentîc Chdteau-Chdlon Cbâteau-Châlon yellow yellow wine wine from from the the Jura. Jura. 4. 4. An An 'Aligot6' 'Aligoté' white white Burgundy Burgundy (Aligot6 (Aligoté is is the the name name of of the the grape) grape) blended blended with with aa little little fine fine Cassis. Cassis. 'Kir,' 'Kir,' as as this trus mixture mixture is is called, called, is is aa misnomer, misnomer, since since itil was was already already being being drunk drunk in in Burgundy Burgundy in in l9l2,long 1912, long before before the the Alsatian AJsatian Canon Canon Kir Kir held held office office as as deputy deputy mayor mayor of of Dijon. Dijon. 5. 5. A A good good quality quality Scotch Scotch whisky whisky served served neat neat or or with with aa splash splash of of soda. soda. 6. 6. Certain Certain authentic authentic Italian Italian vermouths, vermouths, alone, alone, or or with with ice, ice, or or with with chilled chilled sparkling sparkling mineral minerai water. water. 7. 7. One One of of aa small small number number of of good good dry dry French French vennouths vermouths such such as as Noilly, Noilly, drunk drunk neat, neat, or or with with sparkling sparkling mineral minerai water wateror or (wait (wail for for it!) it!) blended blended with with Casis. Casis. Even Even the the ancient aocient (but (but reborn!) rebom! ) Savoyard Savoyard Chamb6ry Chambéry vermouths vermout hs are are recommended. recommended. 8. 8. As As aa last last resort, resort, during during the the long long hot hot summer summer days days (especially (espccially ifjf you you happur happen to to live live in in the the south south of of France) France) aa splendid splendid light'pastis' light 'pastis' simply simply because because its its tart tan aniseed aniseed flavour flavour refreshes refreshes the the palate palate without without spoiling spoiling the the appetite. appetite.

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APHORISMS APHORlSMS AND AND AXIOMS. AXIOMS, ApHoRTsMES APHORISMES Er ET AxroMEs AXIOMES *Short Short pithy pithy maxims, maxims, expressing expressing rules rules and and precepts precepts of of gastronomy, gastronomy, hygiene hygiene and and everything everything pertaining pertaining to to the the table, table, the the most most celebrated celebrated of of which which are are those those of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, given given by by this this master master of ofgastronomical gastronomical sciences sciences as as aa preface preface to to Physiologie Physiologie du du gofrt. goût. Here Here they they are: are: l.1. The The universe universe isis nothing nothing except except for for life, life, and and everything everything that that lives lives has has to to feed feed itself. itself. 2. 2. Animals Animais feed; feed; man man eats; eats; only only aa man man of ofwit wit knows knows how how to to eat. eal. 3. 3. The The destiny destiny of of nations nations depends depends on on their tbeir manner manner of of eating. eating. 4. 4. Tell Tell me me what what you you eat, eat, and and IJshall shall tell tell you you what what you you are. are. 5. 5. The The Creator, Creator, by by making making man man eat eat to to live, live, invites invites him him to to do do so so with witb appetite appetite and and rewards rewards him him with with pleasure. pleasure. 6. 6. Gourmandism Gourmandism is is an an act act of of judgement, judgement, by by which wbich we we prefer prefer things thingswhich which have have aa pleasant pleasant taste taste to to those thosewhich which lack lack this this quality. quality. 7. 7. The The pleasures pleasures of of the the table table belong belong to to all ail agei, ageS, to to all ail conditions, conditions, to to all ail countries countries and and to to every every day; day; they they can can be be associated associated with with all ail the the other other pleasures pleasures and and remain remain the the longest us for for the the loss loss of ofthe the rest. rest. longest to to console console us 8. 8. The The table table isis the the only only place place where where one one isîs never never bored bored during during the the first first hour. hour. 9. 9. The The discovery di5covery of ofaa new new dish dish does does more more for for the the happihappiness ness of ofmankind mankind than than the the discovery discovery of ofaa star. star. 10. 10. Those Those who who give give themselves themselves indigestion indigestion or or get get drunk, d run k, do do not not know know how how to to eat eat or or drink. drink. I Il. l. The Thecorrect correct order orderof offoods foods isisstarting startingwith with the theheaviest heaviest and and ending ending with with the the lightest. lightesl. 12. 12. The The correct correct order order of of beverages beverages is is starting starting with with the the most most temperate temperateand and ending endingwith with the the most most heady. beady. 13. 13. To To claim daim that tbat wines wines should should not not be he changed changed is is aa heresy; heresy; the the palate palate becomes becomes saturated saturated and and after aner the the third third glass glass the the best best of of wines wines arouses arouses nothing nothing but but an an obscure obscure sensation. sensation. 35 35

APHORISMS AND AXIOMS be he on the level level of of Polygnotus PoJygnotus and Phidias, Phidias, he he has his his part part and his place in civilisation as a whole.' whole."

dinners and suppers suppers are pleasing. He goes goes on to say: 'There 'There is no good cheer cheer except at night when the the lanterns are in place with wilh their gentle gentle flickering lights.' Nearer to our own time, other writers and gastronomes have have formulated many many aphorisms which may may be be taken taken as sound sound gastronomical gastronomical rules. rules. Thus Car€me Carême gives the following advice to ministers and diplomats: 'The culinary art follows diplomacy, and every prime prime minister minister should pay it tribute.' tribute.' Talleyrand knew used to knew this this only too too well. weil. He He used ta advise French ambassadors ambassadors at the courts courts of foreign sovereigns sovereigns to ta rely more on their their casseroles than on their secretaries. secreta ries. chamber, Carême also says: 'To 'To preside preside over a political cham ber, or Car6me course in gastroem bassy, is to ta take a a course to hold aa post in an embassy, nomy.' Another of Carême's aphorisms stresses how very very imAnother of Car€me's stresses how portant is is the the part part played played by by cookery: 'When 'When there is is no more cookery in the world there will be no more letters, no quick and lofty intelligence, no no pleasant pleasant easy relationships, relationships, (Pdtissier pittoresque) no more social unity.' unit y.' (Pâtissier pilloresque) Saint-Beuve is responsible Saint-Beuve responsible for this aphorism: 'Intellectual 'IntelJectual quickly wolf men who quîckly wolf down whatever nourishment nourislunent is necesnecessary for for their sary their bodies with with a a kind kind of disdain, disdain, may may be be very rational of rational and have have a lofty intelligence, but they are not men of taste.' Monselet, who who was was aa gastronome and and extremely witty, witt y, Monselet, writings. This one shows formulated many aphorisms in his writings. formulated social importance importance of good dinners: the social 'Tout sefait siicle où oil 1101lS nous sommes sommes 'Toul dînant dans se fait en dinant dans le siècle c'est par des dÎner.ç Et c'est diners qu'on gouverne les hommes.' 'Everything is done at dinner in the century in which which we live, and it is by dinners that men are governed.' Monselet also wrote: 'Gastronomy is the joy joy of every condition and every age. It adds beauty to wit.' lt 'A gourmet is aa being pleasing to Heaven.' 'A passions, rationalised 'All passions, 'AJI rationalised and controlled, become an art. is sensitive sensitive to to more than other passion, Gastronomy, more than any Gastronomy, any other passion, is and direction.' reasoning and pleasant hours of our Iife point: the pleasant life well on this point: 'Ponder weil less intangible intangible link, more or all connected, by or less are by aa more link, with are ail some memory of the the table.' sorne 'There are to produce are many many flowers which serve serve only only to 'There flowers which could have made made savoury dishes.' of which one could essences, ofwhich And in his Le!lres Lettres àd Emilie he gives the following advîce advice to 'Enchant, stay beautiful beautiful and gracious; but to do all women: 'Enchant, ail well. Dring Bring the the same consideration consideration to the preparata the this, eat weil. your appearance. Let your devote ta to your appearance. tion ofyour ofyour food as you devote like your dress.' be aa poem, Iike dinner be great-nephew of the great-nephew of Brillat-Savarin, Tendret, the Lucien Tendret, Lucien created aa few gastronomical aphorisms in his book La Table are, no no doubt. doubt, less famous de Brillat-Savarin. au pays de Brillat-Savarin. They are, gottt, but aa few &t goût, few of of author of Physiologie than those of the author Physiologie du them them deserve to be be quoted here: 'Cuisine is it is both an art art and and aa science. It isis an an art art when when it both an science. Il 'Cuisine and the to bring bring about about the the realisation realisation of of the the true and the true strives to (the good) in in the order of culinary bon (Ihe le bon the order beautiful, beautiful, called le and it is analagous analagous ta to chemistry, physics and science, jt ideas. As aa science, theorems natural history. 1Its ts axioms are called aphorisms, its theorems natural gastronomy.' philosophy gastronomy.' and its philosophy recipes, and are identical, but the the fleeting beautiful and and the the good are 'The beautiful work of aa cook cook or or aa musician created by by the the work impressions created as they they are are being experienced. Raphael's disperse disperse even even as being experienced. painting The The Transfiguration Transfiguration is is immortal, immortal, but but Carême's Car€me's painting lasts only only while while it is is being Ragottt de de truffes truffes àd la parisienne Ragoût parisienne lasts just as be roses last last as as long long as as their their fragrance can can he eaten, Just as roses eaten, enjoyed.' not and even if he may mav not 'The cook cook is is no no less than an an anist, artist. and even jf

'Skilful cookery has always made its appear'Sk.ilful and refined cookery ance during the most glorious glarious epochs in history.' conqueror of 'Vatel 'Vatel is not not less famous than his master, master, the conqueror of Rocroi, and and if if glory glory is nothing but smoke, then then Antonin Antonin Car€me Carème has bas made as much of it it as Napoleon.' 'To give life to ta beauty, the painter painter uses a whole whoJe range of of colours, the musician of of sounds, the cook of of tastes tastes - and it is indeed indeed remarkable remarkable that there there are seven seven colours, seven musical notes and seven tastes.' tastes.' Lucien Lucien Tendret Tendret also made the following following remarks illustratillustrating the importance importance of good cuisine cuisille in diplomatic diplomatie affairs: affairs: 'Political 'Political issues issues are are decided decided at at table. table. Talleyrand often creations of owed owed his his successes successes to to the the skilful sk.ilful creations of Antonin Car6me.' Carême.' 'At ambassador 'A t the time of the Congress Congress of Vienna, the ambassador (Talleyrand), said to (Talleyrand), taking taking leave leave of of Louis Louis XVIII, XVIII, said to him: o'Please "Please believe me, me, your Majesty, Majesty, Il need need saucepans more than written questions."' questions." , ambassador 'Monsieur assures us 'Monsieur Guizot Guizot assures us that that while he was am bassador in London, London, his rus cook was more useful useful to ta him politically politically than his secretaries.' secretaries,' advice, of axioms, He also gave the following ad vice, in the form ofaxioms, to his rus hosts and guests: given only 'To order only to order and and conduct conduct aa dinner 'To dinner is is givcn to fine gastronomes, of of delicate delicate and cultivated gastronomes, cultivated tastes. A skilful host is as rare as aa good cook.' gastronomes who 'One only dines well of true 'One weil at a t the homes of t rue gastronomes of spoils the loveliest of feel all ail the nuances. The least puffiness spolls faces, and and attention to detail creates perfection.' faces, perfection.' 'With dishes and can offer succulent dishes offer succulent 'With money, money, anyone anyone can courtesyy and kindness kindness cannot be bought.' famous famous wines, wines, but courtes wit 'To appetite eat, to make 'To make make people people who have no appctîte make the wit lack these of those who have it sparkle, to of ta enable those who Jack qualities to science of of a this is supreme science qualities to find find them them -- this is the the supreme gastronome-host.' gastronome-hosl.' seated comfortably and are not 'The gourmets, if if they chey are not seated and the food food for have no elbow raom, room, count both the wines and for nothing.' philosophy Lucien Tendret says: And to sum up his phîlosophy 'French conversation was born in 'French in the salons of the eighthe Regent, from dining-rooms of the teenth century. From the dining-rooms H€nault, Baron Holbach and and Mme. Baron Holbach those of of President those President H~nault, and society, certainly sceptical sceptical and emerged aa society, Geoffrin, there emerged permeated with and that suave urbanity urbanity and impious, but but permeated impious, wilh suave which has since spread and enlightened courtesy which ingenious and of the the salient Europe, and and has has become one of throughout Europe, become one throughout civilisation.' characteristics cha rac teri s tics 0off modern ci vi lisa ti 0 n. ' point in his poem, Richepin makes makes aa practical Jean Richepin Jean practical point in his

A rable: À Table: serrel lafamille, se serre! Est-on dix, yy compris compris la famille. on se Est-on d l'étro;1 I'dtroit et sans être Atre à ftop cependant, et Mais pas trop II l'air aux aux coudes. et le droit coudes, el Il faut faut qu'on ait de "air gestes; I'on veul, bavardant, si l'on veut, de grands r;?estes; De faire en bavardant, Grignotis de profil,les mets SOnl sont indig~stes. indigestes. . Grignotés profil, les mets the family; sit sit closer together! 'We are ten, with the But not too closely: we don't want la to be be cramped, We must have elbow room, room, and and be able We To talk and and make gestures, if if we feel feel so incllned; inclined; Ta picking at and picking at food food is courting Sitting sideways and indigestion.' ' indigestion. say la to he has has something ta to say return to to Lucien Tendret, he To return giving people who in giving think they they are doing wrong wrong in who think are doing reassure people table: to the the pleasures of the the ta themselves up to ble: gluttony as 'The casuists seven have classed classed glutlony as one one of of Ihe the seven casuists have 'The drinking to to sins, but if if itit is not not taioted tainted by the the vice of drink.ing deadly sins, deadly 36 36

APHORISMS APHORISMS AND AND AXIOMS AXIOMS

painting by D Téniers T6niers by D The The Five Five Senses, Senses, aa painting

proclaims itself 'Appetite proclaims itself by by aa digestion. 'Appetite and digestion. Appetite and Appetite feeling of of and aa feeling stomach, and in the the stomach, languor in of languor slight sensation sensation of slight tiredness.' tiredness.' the and the function, and mechanical function, 'Digestion isis an absolutely mechanical an absolutely 'Digestion with mill equipped equipped with as aa mill of as thought of can be be thought organs can digestive organs digestive sieves.' sieves.' linked with with must be be linked as aawhole, whole, itit must 'To understand digestion as understand digestion 'To and its its consequences.' consequences.' food and food which one which the one functions, isis the the bodily bodily functions, all the 'Digestion, of of ail 'Digestion, an of an mental state state of greatest influence on the the mental influence on the greatest exercises the exercises individual.' individual.' in while digestion digestion isis in people are bad temper temper while are in in aa bad 'Some people 'Sorne prosuggest proto suggest either to not the the time time either progress; itit isis therefore therefore not progress; jects or of them.' them.' favours of ask favours to ask or to jects quality and and prove that that the thequality 'Theory and both prove andexperience experience both 'Theory onwork.' work.' powerful influence influence on quantity of have aa powerful food have of food quantity copewith with the the adequatelycope cannot adequately mancannot 'A badly nourished man badly nourished 'A length of oftime.' time.' any length for any work for continuous work effort of of continuous effort the among the neverfound foundamong 'Obesity isisnever Thinness. 'Obesity and Thinness. Obesityand Obesity people have have thepeople wherethe ofsociety society where classesof theclasses or among among the savages or savages live.' eattotolive.' theyonly onlyeat where they eat, and andwhere work totoeat, to towork for men, men,but butititisisaa greatdrawback drawbackfor 'Thinness isis not not aagreat 'Thinness women.' for women.' misfortune for dreadful dreadful misfortune introduced which, introduced meanssubstances substanceswhich, 'By foods onemeans foodsone Foods.'By Foods. restore andrestore digestion,and bydigestion, assimilated by canbe beassimilated stomach, can into into the thestomach, body.' human body.' lost by bythe thehuman energy lost the theenergy gavetoto qualitiesnature naturegave thequalities with the 'Wewere satisfiedwith 'We were not notsatisfied pretextof ofimproving improving thepretext underthe poultry;art in,and andunder artstepped stepped in, poultry; ofthem.' them.' martyrs of fowls, fowls, made made martyrs painting, and the andthe forpainting, canvasisisfor whatcanvas 'Poultry 'Poultryisisfor forcookery cookerywhat boiled, servedtotoususboiled, forcharlatans. charlatans.ItItisisserved Fortunatusfor cap ofFortunatus capof portions,with without withororwithout wholeororininportions, roast, cold,whole roast,hot hotororcold, success.' withequal equalsuccess.' sauce, alwayswith sauce,and andalways prohonourofofprothehonour contestthe France contest 'Three 'Threelands ancientFrance landsof ofancient andBresse.' Bresse.' Mansand poultry:Caux, LeMans Caux,Le ducing thebest bestpoultry: ducingthe giftsthat New thatthe theNew thebest bestgifts oneof ofthe 'Turkey 'Turkeyisisundoubtedly undoubtedly one

inebriation or eating to excess, it de serves to be ranked with with be ranked deserves the theological virtues.' AndAnd 'Those who have aa profound profound indifference to to the the pleasures of the table are and unamiable.' generally gloomy, charmless charmless and are generally of Apothegms. - The phorisms of The aaphorisms couRMANDsAPoPHTEGMEs GOURMANDS Apothegms. APOPHTEGMES Much less less Brillat-Savarin the world. world. Much throughout the are known known throughout Brillat-savarin are of author of known are the author which the gastronomical apothegms apothegms which are the gastronomical philosophy of of the the Physiologie goftt has forth on on the the philosophy has set set forth Physiologie du du goût table: Cookery. which and one one which arts, and the oldest oldest arts, 'Cooking is is one one of of the Cookery. 'Cooking has in civillife.' civil life.' service in important service most important us the the most has rendered rendered us 'The much as as least as as much at least worth at men isis worth 'The science which feeds feeds men science which the kill them.' them.' how to to kjll one which which teaches teaches how the one 'Once improvement for improvement instinct for the instinct 'Once fire fire was was discovered, discovered, the made place to it, and and dry it, to dry first place the first it, in in the to it, men bring food to made men bring food afterwards cook.' putt on fire to to cook.' on the the fire to pu afterwards to 'Cookery vessels fire-resisting vessels progress when great progress when fire-resisting made great 'Cookery made in or clay clay appeared.' appeared.' in bronze bronze or 'Meals, word, the word, we understand understand the in which which we sense in in the the sense 'Meals, in began species.' human species.' of the the hurnan age of with the the second second age began with 'In find ourselves, ourselves, itit isis now find in which which we we now 'In the society in the state state of of society difficult and on bread breadand lived solely solely on nation which which lived to imagine imagine aa nation difficult to vegeta bles. ' vegetables.' Gourmandism ism isisan t, ardent, anarden G ottmandism Gourmands.''Gourmand and Gourmands. G ourmandism and rational the whichflatter flatter the preference for things which for things habitual preference rational and and habituai taste.' taste.' 'From gourmandism, you look point of look atatgourmandism, view you of view 'From whatever whatever point itit deserves praise and andencouragement.' encouragement.' but praise deserves nothing nothing but 'Gourmandism society.' links uniting uniting society.' main links of the the main 'Gourmandism isisone one of 'If are thereare predestination, then thenthere gastronomes by by predestination, 'If there there are are gastronomes also some by bycircurnstance.' circumstance.' also sorne Taste. cannot say, ititcannot itsaction, action, that thatisistotosay, inits 'Taste isissimple simple in Taste.'Taste react once.' flavours atatonce.' twoflavours react to to two 'Man's ofthe the andof textureand its texture palate, by ofits thedelicacy delicacy of 'Man's palate, by the various proof gives sufficient sufficient proof it,gives surround it, thatsurround membranes that various membranes of wasintended.' intended.' forwhich which ititwas functions for offunctions sublimity of of the thesublimity 37 37

APHTONITUS APHTONITUS the seven seven great cbefs chefs of Ancient APHTONITUS -- One of tbe Greece. He invented the pudding. pudding.

There were the name APICIUS -- There by the name of were three three Romans Romans by genius, their Apicius. Ali All three were were famous, not not for their genius, virtues, or their great qualities, but for their gluttony and virtues, gastronomical art. achievements in the gastronomical achievements The first first lived lived under The under Sulla, the second under Augustus Sulla, the second under Tiberius, and the third under Trajan. It is and Tiberius, is the second most famous, and it is ofhim Apicius of him that Seneca, Seneca, Apicius who is the most Pliny, Juvenal Martial have spoken Pliny, Juvenal and Martial spoken so much. Athenaeus says sa ys that he spent immense immense sums to satisfy his gluttony and that of cakes which bear his name. tha t he invented several kinds of Seneca, who was bis his contemporary, contemporary, tells us that he ran a sort Seneca, 'good fare'. adds that Apicius, having got of school of 'good fare'. He adds debt, was at last forced to examine into heavy debt, examine the state of of his seeing he had only 250,000 Roman pounds affairs, and that, seeing (some authors forty million sesterces, sesterces, about about an authors say say fort left y million left (sorne income of of f80,000), €80,000), he poisoned himself, fearing that such a sum would not be enough for him to live on. ragofits which Apicius invented, of the ragoûts Pliny often speaks speaks of omnium altissimus altissimus gurges. and calls them nepotum omnium The third Apicius lived under Trajan. Having invented a secret method of preserving oysters, managed to deliver oysters, he managed Emperor, who was busy fighting sorne es to the Emperor, some very fresh on ones the Parthians at the time. given to The name Apicius was was not not only to cakes cakes but The but to only given several kind of sauces. of Coelius Apicius, There Apicius, a treatise There exists, under the name of (1a98); in Milan (1498); re culinaria, printed for the first De re first time tirne in De any critics the cri tics do not think, however, that it was written by byany named Apicius. Martin Lister produced a of the three men named De obsonus magnificent edition edition of of this this book entitld De obsonus et magnificent book entitled 1705), ofwhich of which condimentis, condimentis, sive de arte coquinaria coquinardc (London 1705), 125 copies were printed. printed. However, the first edition, which is undated, seems to be It was was printed in in Venice by than the the Milan edition. It older older than fortyy quarto pages, Bernardus de Vitali bus, and comprises fort de Vitalibus, constitute Apicius's book. the first thirty-two thirty-two of which constitute remarkable summary of the Dix DLx But the latest edition, aa remarkable Bertrand Guégan livres livres de de cuisine cuisine d'Apicius d'Apicius is is that that of of Bertrand Gu€gan Ren€ Bonnel, Paris, 1933). 1933). (published by René it is interesting To return to interesting to to Marcus Gavius Apicius, it note sorne some of his his discoveries. discoveries. To To improve sows' sows' livers, livers, he note gave them honeyed wine fattened them dried figs, figs, gave them honeyed wine to them with dried warning. drink, then then suddenly slaughtered them them without without warning. drink, When camel was on the menu he only had the most delicate part served up -- the heel. Did Imperial Rome have her gastronomes in the strictest word, and were were the illustrious illustrious personages, whose sense sense ofthis of this word, prowess table has been described described in history prowess at table history or legend, real On this this point Car6me, connoisseurs point Carême, connoisseurs of culinary matters? On of the history history of of ancient Rome, who made a profound study of was'fundamentally cookery was says that Roman cookery 'fundamentally barbaric'. barbaric'. named What the us of men named What the historians historians tell tell us of the the three three men leads us to agree with Carême. The Roman Roman table Apicius leads us to Car6me. The spectacular was certainly magnificent, in the spectacular certainly sumptuous and magnificent, all refined. sense, but it was not at ail at the the Apicius family, family, governed the Rome, Rome, at the time of the known. She whole world, at any rate the world as it was then known. laws to to distant provinces. From these these subdictated her laws provinces. From dictated her jugated provinces she great quantities quantities of various received great she received jugated sent her food products. products. Gallia her pork. pork. Africa food Gallia Narbonensis sent and Asia sent delectable foods Roman cooks, and foods which the the Roman Asia sent Greeks, prepared in lavish manner. trained by the Greeks,

World W orld has made to the 0Old.' Id. ' 'Game provides the the delights delights of our table; it 'Game it isis healthy, rich, savoury food, food, excellent in in taste taste and and easy rich, savoury easy to to digest, digest, especially when young.' especially 'Under the direction of an able goes through able chef, game goes many skilful skilful modifications and and transformations, transformations, and and promany vides most most of of the the full-flavoured dishes vides dishes which which constitute constitute cuisine.' superlative cuisine.' 'The taste of partridge is not the same as that of a Périgord P6rigord partridge tha t of Sologne partridge.' aa Sologne 'If the the garden warbler warbler were were the the size size of of aa pheasant, 'If pheasant, it certainly cost as much as an an acre of land.' would most certainly 'The quail is the sweetest and the nicest of game birds. It It is an act of ignorance to serve it in any way except roasted.' glory only when woodcock is in its full glory when roasted roasted actually 'A woodcock actually before of the hunter; above ail, before the eyes of all, the hunter who shot it.' 'In the the hands hands of an an able able cook, cook, fish fish can 'In become an can become an inexhaustable source of delight.' exhaustable is the garden warbler of the water; the 'The smelt is the same smallness, the same high flavour, the same superiority.'

ApoNocEroNs -- Flowering rush APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONACEAE. APONOGETONS represented by one genus, Aponogeton family, represented Aponogeton. Their leaves water. rather like waterlilies. float on the surface of the water,

38

APPERT APPERT The Aponogeton Aponogeton distachyus distachyas isis widely widely cultivated cultivated in in the the The parts of temperate parts years now of Europe. Europe. For For sorne some years now itit has has bebetemperate come completely completely naturalised naturalised at Montpellier, where at Montpellier, where ils its come young shoots shoots are are eaten eaten and and calied called Cape Cape asparagus. asparagns. The The young plant are common names names for for this this plant are Cape Cape pond weed weed and and water water common hawthorn. hawthorn.

The only only document document that that has has been been found found relating relating toto The Appert's civil civil state state isis his his death death certificate, certificate, although although we we do do Appert's know that that he he was was born born in in Châlons, Chdlons, in in the the Marne, Marne, in in 1750. 1750. know Whether itit was was Châlons-sur-Marne Chdlons-sur-Marne or or Châlons-sur-Vesle Chdlons-sur-Vesle Whether remains aa mystery. mystery. remains His father father was was aa wine wine merchant merchant in in the the Champagne region, Champagne region, His and Nicolas Nicolas began began work work with with him, him, corking corking bottles. bottles. and Then he he moved moved on learn the on to to learn culinary art the culinary art as as aacook cook at at the Then the court of of Christian Christian IV. IV. He He also also worked worked in in several several brasseries brasseries court private households. and private households. Finally Finally when when he he was was about about thirty thirty and (about 1780) years old 1780) he old (about he set set up up as as aa confectioner confectioner in in rue ruedes des years Lombards, Paris. Paris. Lombards, preparation of Appert became became deeply deeply interested interested in in the the preparation of Appert products. He food products. He soon soon realised realised the inadequacy and the inadequacy and disdisfood preservation, and advantages of of contemporary contemporary methods methods of of preservation, and advantages set himself himself the the task task of of investigating investigating new new ones. ones. set In 1810, 1810, in in order order to his invention to bring bring his invention to to the notice of the notice of the the In public, Appert published lele Livre Appert published Livre de de tous tous les les ménages mdnages ou ou public, pendant plusieurs plusieurs années I'Art de de conserver conserver pendant anndes toutes l'Art toutes les les subsub('The Manual animales et stances animales vigitales ('The et végétales Manual for stances for Every Every HouseHousehold or or the the Art Art of Preserving ail of Preserving all Varieties Varieties of hold of Animal Animal and and Vegetable Substances for Several Substances for Several Years'). Vegetable Years'). He wrote: wrote: 'My 'My method method isis not not aa vain vain theory; He theory; itit isis the the fruit fruit of late late nights, nights, much much deep deep thinking thinking and and research, research, and of and ininnumerable experiments.' experiments.' numerable probably Appert Most probably Appert intuitively Most recognised the intuitively recognised the destrucdestruc'ferments' that tive action action of of heat heat on tive on the the 'ferments' that alter alter animal animal and and possible to He realised substances. He vegetable substances. that if if itit were realised that were possible to destroy or attenuate the 'ferments' by or attenuate destroy the effect effect of of these heating these 'ferments' by heating sufficiently, and preventing other them sufficiently, and afterwards afterwards succeed succeed in in preventing other 'ferments' from from being 'ferments' being introduced introduced into into the the substance, substance, the the conservation of prolonged, ifif not conservation of the the latter latter would would be be prolonged, not inindefinitely, at at least least for period. Although definitely, for aa very very long long period. Although this this disdiscoverywas pon scientific managed co very was not not based based uupon scientific theory, theory, Appert Appertmanaged (rule-of-thumb) methods through empirical through empirical (rule-of-thumb) perfect aa methods to to perfect system of preservation which of food food preservation principle isis little system which in in principle little difdifferent from ferent from that employed in processes that employed in manufacturing manufacturing processes today. Encouraged by Encouraged by official official approval, approval, Appert gave gave up up his his conconfectionery business business and fectionery and occupied occupied himself himself exclusively exclusively with with experiments; these proved the experiments; these at at length length proved validity of the validity of his his theories. ln 1794 1794 he settled settled in In in Ivry-sur-Seine. lvry-sur-Seine. In In 1804, 1804, with with the the help help of sorne some financial financial backing, he of he acquired piece of acquired aa piece of land land of of 44 (10 acres) hectares (10 hectares acres) at Massy in at Massy in Seine-et-Oise, Seine-et-Oise, and and built built aa factory. This This he equipped equipped with with what to to us us would would seem seem rather rather primitive machinery. He He employed employed about about fifty fifty workers. workers. Scientific Scientific controversies controversies arose arose over over Appert's Appert's discovery, discovery, and and it it was was not not until until Pasteur Pasteur arrived arrived on on the the scene scene that that aa satissatisfactory factory explanation was was reached. Massy Massy was destroyed destroyed by by the the Allies Allies in in 1814. 1814. practically penniless, Although old penniless, Appert old and and practically Appert did did not not give up. give up. In In 1817 l8l7 he he settled settled in in rue rue Cassette, Cassette, in in Paris, Paris, and and premises in managed managed to to obtain obtain premises in rue rue Moreau Moreau from from the the government. There There he he resumed the application application of his manumanuof his facturing processes on aa large facturing processes large scale. scale. The last years of his Iife, life, like his early years, years, are are something something of aa mystery. He He died poverty on died in in extreme extreme poverty on 1I June June 1840. 1840. In In 1852, Chevallier-Appert Chevallier-Appert took up up where the the other other had had left left off. He He was was Appert's Appert's successor perfected Appert's successor and and he he perfected Appert's ideas. He had had the idea idea of putting canned foods foods in in the the autoautoclave (q.v.), which clave (q.v.), which up had been up to to then then had been used used for for entirely entirely different purposes. He raised the temperature to aa high level. different purposes. level. Since it was was necessary to to know the the temperature inside inside the the autoclave autoclave during during the the operation operation in preserve the in order order to to preserve the quality quality of the the canned canned foods, foods, Chevallier-Appert Chevallier-Appert devised devised aa pressure gauge as as weil. well.

APOPHORETAA -- Name given given by by the the ancient ancient Romans Romans to to APOPHORET gifts which the gifts guests for which the the host host made made to to his his guests for members members of of the their families. families. These gifts were These gifts were often great value. often of of great value. They They their precious dishes dishes or or vases which had had been at been used used at were mostly precious the feast. feast. Sometimes Sometimes the slaves who the slaves who served served at table were were also at table also the presented to guests. to the the guests. presented

APOTIIECA. APOTHÉCAlpornEcn- Roman name name ofa of a room, room, situated situated APOTHECA. under the the roof roof of of aa house, house, so so arranged arranged that that the the smoke smoke of of various fireplaces passed passed through it, with purpose of with the sole sole purpose of boiling down down the the famous famous Caecu wine to Caecubum to the the desired desired boiling bum wine consistency. syrupy consistency. to mature. This wine took at least fifteen years to APPAREIL -- In In French culinary culinary terminology terminology this this word word isis APPAREIL go into into the making making used to describe mixed preparations that go of dishes. dishes. For For example, example, the the following following terms terms are are used: of (souffi€ mixture); appareil appareil àd soufflé souffii (soufflé (sponge appareil àd biscuit biscuit (sponge appareil mixture); appareil àd crème (custard mixture), crime renversée renversie (custard mixture), etc. etc. mixture);

APPELLATIONS D'ORIGINE -- According According to to French APPELLATIONS legislation the label of the label of aa controlled controlled wine wine must must bear an legislation bear an appellation d'origine; that is to say the name of of the viticultural appellation area to which it belongs. d'origine are are divided divided into into two two categories: categories: Appellations d'origine contrdlie (A.O.C.) and and vins vins délimités dilimitds de de appellation d'origine contrôlée qualiti supérieure (V.D.Q.S.). The supirieure (V.D.Q.S.). group The first first and and superior superior group qualité consists of viticultural areas of wines wines belonging belonging to to the the viticultural areas that consists that produce wines wines of great quality and and individuality, following traditional methods. methods. The The latter group of latter is is aa secondary secondary group traditional of controlled wines belonging to viticultural areas to viticultural areas that that have general quality while for their general while not not proearned aa reputation for ducing wines of of su such of the ducing ch individual characteristics as those of first group.

Nicolas Appert

APPERT -- It is impossible to explain how so many people people (including the authors of the first edition of this dictionary) committed the the error of naming naming Frangois François Appert Appert in in this context, context, when when it ought ought to be Nicolas -- at least according according to a short short report report in in I'Encyclopidie l'Encyclopédie universelle universelle du du XD( XIX" siècle siicle (1858 (1858 edition, published published eighteen eighteen years years after the the death death of Charles-Nicolas Appert). Charles-Nicolas His biography is is so vague that we prefer to repeat what the canners canners themselves themselves have to say about him. the About a a hundred hundred and and sixty sixt Y years years ago, the Frenchman Frenchman ago, the Nicolas Nicolas Appert Appert discovered discovered how to to preserve preserve food products products by the action action of of heat. the

39 39

APPETENCE APPETENCE

Calville Blanc apple

Reinette du Canada apple

(Pomona) Richared apple (Pomona) Richared apple

(Pomona) apple (Pomona) Stark Jaugrines apple Stark Jaugrines

particular Calville in shape shape irregular in Calville, in particular Calville Blanc, Blanc, irregular Calville, in pronounced 'shoul'shoulprominent with more or minent sides sides and or less less pro and pronounced ders', gradually disappearing, has sorne some adherents adherents still has disappearing, but ders', is is gradually but still on These different its very very delicate delicate Bavour. flavour. These different on account account of of its from pp lied from varieties well su supplied apples keep keep the the market market weil varieties of of apples production isis important September important French production May. French to April April or or May. September to qualitatively, and both quantitatively and complemented and qualitatively, and isis complemented both quantitatively by Italy and the Holland. During During the imported from from Italy and Holland. apples irnported by apples (the golden golden varieties season her excess excess (the varieties France exports exports her season France especially) also Imports are and Great Great Britain. Britain. Imports are also to Germany Germany and especially) to received from hemisphere in in April, April, May May and and from the the southern southern hemisphere June, French apples apples are are exhausted. exhausted. June, when when stocks stocks of of French The grape, isis one like the choicest dessert dessert our choicest The apple, apple, like the grape, one of of our fruits. It isis rich rich in in assimilable assimilable mineraIs minerals -- calcium, calcium, copper, copper, fruits. It iron, potassium -- and contains Vitamins Vitamins BB and contains magnesium and and potassium iron, magnesium preparation of and of are used in the the preparation Apples are and C, and tannin. tannin. Apples used in C, and numerous preserves, etc., in the manusweet dishes, dishes, preserves, etc., and and in the manunumerous sweet facture pastries and They and apple apple sugar sugar in in confectionery. confectionery. They facture of of pastries are give cider, pressed and cider, from from and used in the the alembic alembic to to give are also also pressed used in which Calvados. which isis derived derived Calvados. Baked pastry or DE normand. RABOTTES RABoTTES DE Bakd apples apples in in pastry or douiJIon douillon normand. poMMEs OU POMMES DOUILLoN NORMAND NoRMAND -- Choose big sound sound baking baking ou DOUILLON Choose big apples part containing apples and and core core them, containing them, to to remove remove the central part the central prethe pips. Make middle, to circular incision incision round round the the rniddle, to preMake aa circular the pips.

which brings desire desire lppfrsNcE -- A APPETENCE. APPÉTENCE A feeling which for food; this is the first stage for appetite. me for APPÉTIT -- Common name for chives chives in in French. French. (See APPf,TIT Common na CHIVES.) APPETITE. define under the the term Appfrlr -- Psychologists define APPETITE. APPÉTIT natural.appetite cause us which instinctively cause natural,appetite the tendencies which to needs of the body. to satisfy the needs In physiology physiology appetite is difis defined defined as as sometrung something rather different from hunger. in reality reality is is nothing more than hunger. Hunger Hunger in the need which of pleasure which need to eat, whereas appetite is the lure of one experiences whilst about by aa particular whilst eating, brought about condition of the organism. The sensation at regular mealsensation of hunger, which develops at times people, sometirnes is not not sometimes disappears disappears if itit is in civilised civilised people, times in satisfied at the usual is stimulated stimulated by the the hour. The The appetite appetite is usual hour. sight and smell of food; bitter substances substances frequently awaken awaken lost appetite by releasing digestive secretions. digestive secretions. In certain psycruc psychic and cases, appetite appetite can can degenerdegenerand mental cases, ate into substances. offensive and and non-edible substances. into aa craving for offensive The means distaste is anorexia, anorexia, wruch which means distaste of appetite is The opposite ofappetite for food. APPIGRET Rabelais used used to to which Rabelais An old old French French word word which APPIGRET -- An define juice, seasoning. seasoning. define gravy, BraW, juice, poMME - AppIes APPLE. to are the fruit fruit of of aa tree tree belonging belonging to APPLE. POMME - Apples are the Rosaceae. the family Rosaceae. The are divided divided into into cooking cooking varieties of of apples apples are The numerous varieties and eating apples. apples. and eating The are: among the American varieties varieties are: dessert apples apples among The best best dessert Golden golden yellow yellow in in in colour, colour, truncated truncated in Delicious, golden Golden Delicious, shape, juice, very very tasty tasty fiesh, flesh, eaten eaten between between with aa delicate delicate juice, shape, with October Delicious and Starking Delicious and April; Red Red Delicious, Starking October and and April; Richared, red, varying shades shades of of dark dark red, Richared, truncated in in shape, in varying shape, in keeping keeping weil March. Among Among the varieties of French the varieties well until until March. of French origin yellow streaked Reine des reinettes, early early variety, variety, yellow origin are: are: Reine des reinettes, streaked with russet; yellowishrusset; Reinette Reinette du &t Canada, Canada, rough-skinned, rough-skinned, yellowishgreen green with with brown spots, mid-season mid-season variety variety keeps keeps weil well if if itit brown spots, has grown at has been at aa high high altitude; altitude; Reinette Reinette du du Mans Mans and and been grown Reinette late varieties Reinette Clochard, Clochard,late varieties both cultivated in in the the Loire Loire both cultivated valley. vallev.

Baked pastry Baked apples apples in in pastry

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APPLE APPLE following following recipe: recipe: 'Scald 'Scald 650 650 g. g. (l+ (l-l: lb.) lb.) chestnuts, chestnuts, remove remove the the shells shells and and the the inner inner grey grey skin, skin, put put them them into into aa pan pan with with aa

vent vent their their bursting. bursting. Fill Fill the the middle, middle, hollowed hollowed out out by by the the corer, corer, with with butter butter kneaded kneaded with wilh sugar sugar (and (and with wilh aa pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, ifif desired). desired).

vanilla vanilla bean bean and and enough enough milk milk (previously (previously boiled) boiled) to to cover coyer them them completely. completely. Simmer Simmer gently gently for for 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes. minutes. 'Core 'Core and and peel peel 10 10 medium-sized medium-sized apples. apples. Cook Cook them them in in aa light light syrup, syrup, strongly strougly flavoured fiavoured with with vanilla; vanilla; itit isis enough enough for for the the pulp pulp just just to to be be softened. softened. 'Shred 'Shred about about 15 15 almonds almonds and and roast roast them them until until they they go go slightly slightly yellow yellow (not (not brown). brown). Add Add to to them them 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 o2.,3 oz., 3

Enclose Enclose eachapple each apple inin apiec,eof a piece ofLiningpaste(w Lining pas/e (see DOUGH), DOUGH), rolled rolled out oUi not nol too 100 thick. Ihick. Put Put aa little little circlet circlet of of paste paste (cut (eut out out with with aa fluted-edged fluted-edgcd cutter) culler) on on top top of of each each apple. apple. Brush Brush with with beaten egg egg and and score score the the outside oUlside of of the the apples apples lightly lightly with with aa beaten

knife. knife. Bake Bake in aa moderate moderate oven oyen from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve piping piping hot. hot. Note. NOie. The apples apples can be be peeled pecled before before being being put put into into pastry. paslry. They can also be be cooked cooked first first as for Apples Apples bonne bonne femme (see below). below). In ln that that case case the the baking baking will will only only take take femme 15 15 minutes. minutes. Lining Lining paste paste can be be replaced replaced by by left-over left-over pieces pieces of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Apptes POMMES BoNNE BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Make Make a light light Apples bonne bonne femme. femme. PoMMEs circular round the the middle middle of of some sorne baking baking apples, apples, and circular incision incision round core them. them. Put them them in a buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Fill Fill the middle middle of of each apple with with a little butter butter mixed with with fine castor castor sugar. sugar. water into the Pour a few tablespoons tablespoons of ofwater the dish, bake bake gently gently in in the the oven oyen and serve in the same dish. dish. Apples Apples Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. PoMMEs POMMES BouRDALoue BOURDALOUE - Poach apples, apples, as described in whole, who le, halved or quartered, in in syrup, syrup, as in the recipe for Apricots Apricols Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Apple butter, butter, marmalade marmalade - See See JAM, JAM, Apple Apple ielly; jel/y; Apple MARMALADE, MARMALADE, Appil, Apple marmalade. marmalade. some BEURRE Buttered apples. PoMMEs POMMES AU BEURRE - Peel and core sorne water with minutes in boiling boiling water with baking apples and parboil for 2 minutes baking put them it. Drain the apples, put of lemon lemon juice juice added to il. a dash of fine sugar, dish, sprinkle with in aa buttered wilh fine in buttered ovenproof dish, and of water (or light syrup) and moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons ofwater oven. cook gently in the oyen. cro0ton of bread apple on aa round croûton Serve each apple bread which has the pan juices.with fried in in butter. been fried butter. Dilute the juices with aa few tablespoons of water, add a little butter butter and pour over the apples. Peel and and PoMMEs AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTn -- Peel Apptes au chambertin. POMMES Apples Chambertin in sweetened Chambertin Poach them in apples. Poach core several apples. pint, li (6 oz. per per pint, l| cups g. sugar per litre (6 300 g. allowing 300 wine, allowing in this this syrup. syrup. cool in per quart) quart) of wine. apples 10 to cool Leave the the apples wine. Leave per the syrup syrup by down the timbale. Boil down Arrange in aa fruit dish or aa limbale. pour over apples. over the the apples. half, leave until cold, then pour half, See CHARLOTTE. CHARLOTTE. charlotte -- See Apple charlotte See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. compote -- See Apple compote poMMEs CONDÉ the Prepare as as described described in the coNpf -- Prepare Apptes Condé. Cond6. POMMES Apples (see APRICOT). Condi (see recipe for for Apricols Apricots Condé recipe lu r. LA u CRhlE cniun AU PoMMEs À au kirsch. kirsch. POMMES Apples ili la la crème crbme au Apples vanilla-flavoured in aa vanilla-flavoured cook the the apples apples in Peel, core core and and cook rnscs -- Peel, KIRSCH and arrange arrange Drain, dry dry and in the the syrup. syrup. Drain, cool in syrup. Leave kave 10 to cool syrup. (or on At the the glass goblets goblets (or fruit dish). dish). At on aa fruit in glass individually in them individually them sweetened fresh cream, cream, sweetened half-whipped fresh moment top with half-whipped top with last moment last with kirsch. flavoured with with sugar sugar and and flavoured with can be be topped topped above, can prepared as as described described above, Apples, prepared Note.Apples, NOIe. anisette, such as as anisette, various liqueurs, such with various with cream cream ftavoured flavoured with with etc. liqueur, rum, rum, etc. raspberry liqueur, chartreuse, raspberry cassis, chartreuse, b€n€dictine, cassis, bénédictine, (apple pallcakes). pancakes). CRÊPES cnBprs apples (apple wift apples Cr6pes stuffed strffed wilb Crêpes poMM.Es - Prepare (q.v.) in in the the usual usual crdpes (q.v.) the crêpes AUx POMMES rounnfns AUX FOURRÉES - Prepare the (see saace (see Apple sauce with concenlrated concentrated Apple manner and and coat coat them them with manner below). below). Put them them on on aa in four. four. Put pancakes or them in fold them or fold Roll the the pancakes Roll quickly glaze quickly and glaze icing sugar sugar and with icing baking sheet, sheet, sprinkle sprinkle with baking napkin. folded napkin. on aa folded in the the oyen. oven. Serve Serve on in pannequets In in called pannequels are usually usually called Nole. Stuffed Stuffed crêpes cr)pes are NOIe. French. French. or halved or Poach halved PoMMEs -- Poach AUx POMMES Apple eroOte. cro0te. CROÛTE cno0rn AUX Apple prepare as as and prepare syrup, and quartered apples in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, apples in quartered (see APRICOT). APRICOT). for Apricol Apricot crOÛle crofite (see recipe for in the the recipe described described in poMMEs FIGARO gives the the Gilbert glves Phil€as Gilbert FIcARo -- Philéas Figaro. POM.\lES Apples Figaro. Apples

tablespoons) tablespoons) coarsely coarsely crumbled crumbled marrons marrons glacis. glacés. 'Make 'Make aa cream with wilh 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 3~ cup) cup) castor castor sugar' sugar, 44 egg egg yolks, yolks, 11 tablespoons tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour flour and and 44 dl. dl. (} ct pint, pint, scant seant 2 2 cups) cups) vanilla-flavoured, vanilla-flavoured, boiled boiled milk. milk. After After boiling boiling this this cream cream for for I1 minute, minute, remove remove from from the the heat heat and and incorporate incorpora te 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Do Do not not allow allow to to boil boil again. again. Rub Rub the the chestnuts chestnul~ through through aa sieve, sieve, put put this this puree purée intoa into a saut6 sauté pan, pan, and and add add 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz-,l oz., 1 "up) cup) the castor sugar sugar and and l+ It dl. dl. (t (i pint, pint, J1cup) cup) cream. cream. Stir Stir on on the fire tire for for 22 minutes, minutes, and and spread spread on on aa dish. dish. 'Place on this this chestnut chestnut puree, purée, pour pour 'Place the the well-drained well-drained apples apples on the the cream cream over over them, them, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with the the almond almond and and chestnut mixture.' mixture.' Apples Apples ffamb6 flambé au au kirsch kirsch (or (or other other liqueurs). liqueurs). PoMMES POMMES There are rrmrmfrs FLAMBÉES AU AU KIRscH KIRSCH -- There are two two ways ways of of preparing preparing this Ihis dish. dish. apples, peel 1. cooking apples, 1. Core cooking peel them them and and poach poach in in aa light, light, timbale syrup. Drain vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. Drain them, them, put put into into aa silver silver timbale glass dish. Sprinkle with or or an an ovenproof aven pro of china china or or glass dish. Sprinkle with kirsch, kirsch, just before serving. heat, set alight heat, and and set alighl just before serving. apples into and cored cored apples 2. Put 2. Put the the peeled peeled and into aa buttered buttered dish. dish. slowly in and bake and melted sugar and Sprinkle with Sprinkle with sugar melted butter, butter, and bake slowly in the oyen. oven. an ovenproof or an timbale or silver timbale apples to Transfer the Transfer the apples to aa silver ovenproof just alight just and set set alight glass dish, with kirsch, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with china or or glass china kirsch, and before serving. alight with with brandy, set alight also be be set can also Note. Apple Apple flambé flamb6 can NOIe. brandy, quetsche, rum, any other other rum, or or any Calvados, quetsche, raspberry eau-de-vie, Calvados, content. alcohol content. high-degree alcohol liqueur with with aa high-degree liqueur FLAN. TART, FLAN. See TART, Apple flan -- See (sweet\ fritters. Dessert (sweel) FRITTERS, Dessert fritters -- See See FRITTERS, Apple fritters Apple fril/ers. r'rup6Rlcl.e,ctss À A L'IMPÉRAPoMMEs GLACÉES glace Ili l'impératrice. I'imperatrice. POMMES Apples glacé Apples poached in well in syrup syrup and and weil apples, poached TRIcE - Using Using dessert dessert apples, TRICE for Peaches Peaches àd prepare as recipe for in the the redpe as described described in drained, prepare drained, (see PEACHES). PEACHES). I' impir at ice (see l'impératrice cut apples, eut Peel tart tart apples, gratin6. POMMES cnlrrx6ns - Peel PoMMES GRATINÉES Apple gratiné. Apple keeping sYruP, keeping vanilla-flavoured syrup, in vanilla-flavoured quarters, and cook in and cook into quarters, into and dry. dry. Drain and firm. Drain fairly firm. them fairly them sauce apple sauce layer of of apple on aa layer dish on in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish Arrange in Arrange (see CHARLOTTE, Apple prepared as CHARLOTTE, Apple as for for aa charlotte charlotte (see prepared sprinkle on top, top, sprinkle macaroons on crushed macaroons some crushed Scatter sorne charloue). Scatter charlolle). slow oyen. oven. in aa slow the top top in brown the and brown melted butter, butter, and little melted with aa little with quarters and and cut into into quarters also be be eut can also apples can this dish dish apples .l/ote. For For this NOie. syrup. poached in in syrup. being poached instead of of being in butter, butter, instead cooked in cooked

l|

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JELLIESAND JELLlES. See JAMS JAMS AND Apple jelly - See ApplejeUy LA PoMMEs ÀA LA AUx POMMES MoussE AUX la Chantilly. Chantilly. MOUSSE mousse Ild la Apple mousse Apple vanilla-flavoured thick, vanilla-flavoured fine, thick, very fine, Prepare aa very cHANTILLv -- Prepare CHANTILLY ice, (see below). and whisk whisk ilit on on ice, sauce and Cool the the sauce Apple sauce sauce (see below). Cool Apple sure cream, making making sure thick cream, fresh thick adding to to itit aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh adding glass into glass its consistency. Pour into lose its consistency. Pour not lose mixture does does not that the the mixture that piling itit up in aa dome. dome. up in goblets or fruit dish, dish, piling or aa fruit goblets stiff. whisked stiff. cream, whisked whipped cream, with vanilla-ftavoured vanilla-flavoured whipped Top with Top lux rounnfn AUX oMsl-errr FOURRÉE normande. OMELETIE la normande. Apple omelette omelette ài la Apple poMMEs DITE in the the Make the the omelette omelette in LA NORMANDE NoRMANon -- Make otrn ÀA LA POMMES Just before before sugar. Just with sugar. sweetened with eggs sweetened manner, using using eggs usual manner, usual sauce Apple sauce concentrated Apple with concentrated omelette wilh filI the the omelette folding, fill folding, in peeled, diced, cooked in diced, cooked (see bdow) apples, peeled, with tart taft apples, or with below) or (sec or with with apple sauce, sauce, or with aa tittle little apple mixed with and mixed and sugar, sugar, and butter and butter cream. fresh cream. thick fresh thick

4l 41

APPLE-CORER APPLE-CO RER Arrange the the omelette omelette on on aa long long dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar Arrange glaze with andglaze glazing iron with aaglazing iron or or with with aasalamander. salamander. and poMMES- Tbis pectin. JUS juice, which Apple pectin. rus DE DE POMMES which has has aa Apple - This juice, strongly viscous viscous consistency, consistency, isis used preparing Apple used for for preparing Appte strongly jelly (see (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES). JELLIES). je/ly jellies made preparing many also used used for for preparing many other other jellies made of of ItIt isis also fruit with with too too higb high aa water water content; content; without without su such addition an addition fruit ch an jellies these jellies would would not not have have the the desired desired consistency, consistency, and and these would run run the the risk risk of fermenting. of ferrnenting. would juice does Added in proportions, apple in the the rigbt right proportions, apple juice does not not alter alter Added the flavour flavour of of other other fruit. fruit. the To obtain obtain about (4| pints, juice, about 21 litres (4!pints, 51 2] litres pints) apple 5] pints) apple juice, To cut 36 36 sound sound apples quarters, without apples in in quarters, peeling or without peeling or coring coring cut peel and them, as as both both the the peel provide aagreat pips provide and the great deal the pips deal of of them, mucilaginous matter. matter. Put Put them them in pan with in aa copper copper pan with 22 litres litres mucilaginous (3| pints, pints, 41 pints) water. 4{ pints) paniioseiy water. Seal (hermetically, Seal the the pan (31 closely (hermetically, possible) and if possible) and cook cook on (not too on sustained sustained heat heat (not too brisk) brisk) until until if quarters become the apple apple quarters become soft soft enough enough to 'give' easily to 'give' easily when when tbe pressed with with aa finger. finger. pressed Pour the the fruit fruit into into aa muslin muslin c10th cloth fixed fixed over over aa bowl bowl and and Pour juice will leave for for sorne some time; time; the the juice will drip drip througb. through. Do press Do not not press leave juice can fruit itself in the fruit in order order to to hurry process. The hurry the the process. The juice can be be tbe used as as indicated in in various various recipes. recipes. used The residue, residue, i.e., i.e., the apple apple pulp left behind, behind, can can be be used used for for The preparing Apple (se,e below) sauce (see paste, and Apple sauce below) or or paste, and for for various various preparing sweet flans, flans. loaves loaves and and soufflés. souffi6s. sweet pie -- See Apple pie See PIE. Apple pudding -- See Apple pudding See PUDDING. PUDDING. Apple poMrrrrs GRATINÉES Apples witb with rice. rice. POMMES cn.lrrufrs AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Prepare Apples (4 oz., i-! cup) g. (4 125 g. (see RICE). cup) rice rice as as for for Dessert rice rice (see RICE). Put Put 125 it into into an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish in in layers, layers, alternating g. alternating with with 225 225 g. it (8 oz.) oz.) apples, apples, sliced sliced and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Smooth Smooth the (8 of the top rice layer, layer, and coyer quarters, cover with 10 l0 apple quarters, surface of in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crusbed crushed macaroons and and aa cooked in tablespoon ofmelted of melted butter, and brown the top. Serve Serve in in the the same dish, with kirsch-fla kirsch-flavoured SAUCE), sa me dish, voured lpricot Apricol sauce (see SA UCE), separately. served separa tely. poMMEs MERINGUÉES Apples with rice rice and and meringue. meringue. POMMES MsnNcu6ns AU lu Apples with Rlz apple quarters in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, syrup, or RIZ - Poach apple cook them in butter. Proceed described for Apricols Apricots wilh with Proceed as described rice and meringue APRICOT). meringue (see APRICOT). poMnaes À Apple la normande. normande. BoRDURE i, LA rA, Apple dng ring ià la BORDURE oe DE POMMES NoRMANDE NORMANDE - Peel, Peel, core and halve balve the apples, and cook them in vanilla-flavoured cool in in the syrup, then vanilla-flavoured syrup. Leave to cool drain on a flat fiat sieve until they are dry. Prepare CUSTARD, Vanilla euslard), crème moulie moulée (see (see CUST ARD, Vani//a Prepare a crime custard), flavouring flavouring with I1 to to 2 tablespoons tablespoons Calvados Calvados (applejack), and cook it bain-marie (q.v.) in a plain ring mould. mould. When it it rn in a bain-marue is is cold, turn tum out the mould onto a dish. Fill the middle with the dry apple halves, piling piling them up into a dome. Decorate with with firmly firmly whipped whipped cream cream piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with a fluted nozzle. Serve with Calvados-flavoured Apricol Calvados-flavoured Apricot sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Apple ring Brillat-Savarin. BoRDURE BORDURE DE poMMES POMMES BRTLLATBRILLATSAVARIN SAVARIN -- Fill Fill a savarin savarin (q.v.), (q.v.), steeped steeped in in syrup syrup and flavoured flavoured with witb rum, rum, with stewed apples which whicb have been mixed with rum-flavoured rum-fiavoured confectioner's confectioner's custard custard (see (see CREAMS, CREAMS, French French pastry paslry cream). cream). Poach Poach apple halves halves in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drain drain well, weil, and and coat coat with with reduced reduced apricot apricot pulp. pulp. Place Place these these on top top of of the savarin fresh walnuts, savarin and decorate decorate with with halves ha Ives of offresh walnuts, crystallised crystallised cherries of angelica. angelica. Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured cherries and and lozenges lozenges of custard. custard. Apple RISSOLES DE DE poMMEs POMMES -- Roll Roll out a piece piece of Apple rissoles. rissoles. Rrssolrs Puff Puff pastry paslry (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and cut into little little circles circJes 8 to to 10 10 cm. cm. (3 (3 to to 44 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Put Put aa tablespoon tablespoon of of highly highly concentrated Apple sauce sauce (see (see below), below), flavoured flavoured with with kirsch kirsch concentrated Apple (or (or any any other other liqueur), liqueur), in in the the middle middle of of each each circle. Fold the the

pastry to toenclose enclose tbe thefilling filling completely, completely, and andseal sealthe pastry theedges, edges, moistening tbem with water. them with water. moistening Justbefore before serving, serving, fry fry inin smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deepfat. Just fat. Drain Drain the rissoles rissoles and and arrange arrange them them on folded napkins. the on folded napkins. Serve Serve kirsch-flavoured Apricot (seeSAUCE). Apricot sauce sauce separately separately (see kirsch-flavoured SAUCE). (or other Apple (or other fruit) fruit) rissoles rissoles can prepared using canalso also be be prepared Apple using paste, or lining paste, or ordinary ordinary brioche brioche dough, dough, and and can Iining can be be made made various shapes. shapes. inin various poMMEs - Cook Apple sauce. sauce. MARMELADE MARMELADEDE DEPOMMES quartered Apple - Cook quartered apples in inaalittle little water water until until soft. soft. Pass Passthrough through aastrainer. apples strainer. Add Add pinch of of salt salt and and enough enoughsugar sugar to aa pinch to sweeten. sweeten. Boil Boildown down until until juice improves thick. AA squeeze squeezeof of lemon lemon juice thick. improves the thefiavour. flavour. poMMES - Prepare Apple soufflé. soufr6. SOUFFLÉ souFFLf AUX Atrx POMMES Apple described - Prepare asasdescribed in the the recipe recipe for for fruit fruit soufflés, pulp and in souffi6s, using apple pulp using apple and cream. cream. (See SOUFFLÉS, SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet souffiés.) (See souffiis.)

APPLE-CORER. VIDE-POMMES vmn-poMMEs -- Tube-shaped APPLE-CORER. Tube-shaped implement implement for taking taking the the cores cores out out of for of apples. apples. APPRET -- In In French French cookery APPR};T cookery this this word word means means aa finished finished preparation. culinary preparation. culinary

APRICOT. ABRICOT ABRrcor -- Fruit APRICOT. Fruit of apricot tree, of the the apricot tree, brought brought from Armenia Armenia into into Italy from Italy but but not not widely widely k.nown known in in Europe Europe until the until the fifteentb fifteenth century. century. justly famous The musk musk apricot, The apricot, justly famous for for its its succulent succulent flesh, flesh, found in in the the south south of isis found of France, France, Algeria Algeria and and Spain. Spain. In Auvergne, Auvergne, another another much In much prized prized variety variety of of apricot apricot isis cultivated for for tbe quality of the high high quality cultivated jam which produced from which isis produced ofjam from it. it. Among the the best varieties of Among of apricot best varieties apricot isis clingstone, clingstone, aa species species of apricot apricot with with white white flesh of flesh wbich which adheres adheres to to the the stone. has stone. ItIt has somewhat tart aa somewhat tart flavour. flavour. Peach Peach apricot, apricot, aa choice choice fruit, fruit, isis much sought sought after after for much for the the delicacy delicacy of of its its flesh; flesh; itit is is fragrant, fragrant, juicy and and sweet. juicy sweet. Apricots are Apricots are one one of of the pdtisserie. most used fruits most the fruits used in in pâtisserie. They are are used Tbey in aa number used in number of preparations, including of preparations, including sweet sweet courses and and confectionery. courses confectionery. They They also also make make excellent excellent tarts, tarts, as as well as weIl as delicious compotes compotes and and jellies. Compotes can can be be made made from green preserved preserved apricots, from green apricots, which peeled before being which should should be be peeled being bottled. Varieties of apricots apricots (Ptpiniire G (Pépinière G De/bard) Delbard) The early Boulbon Boulbon apricot

apncots Luizet apricots Luizet

Nancy peach peach apricot apricot Nancy

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APRICOT APRICOT Apricots Apncots iil I'ancienne. l'ancielllle. ABRIcors ABRICOTS A À t'lNctBNNs L'ANCIENNE -- Halve Halve large large apricots, apricots, remove rem ove the the stones, stones, and and poach poach in in vanillavanillaflavoured of sponge sponge cake cake soaked soaked l'lavoured syrup. Arrange Arrange on on aa layer layer of in and coated coated with with a layer layer of of apple apple sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with in rum rum and chopped in the the chopped almonds, almonds, sugar and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Put Put in oven oyen to to set. Serve Serve with apricot apricot jam jam diluted in in a little lillle water, water, strained strained and and laced !aced with with rum. r\lm. Apricot Apncor barquettes barquettes -- See BARQUETTES. BARQUEITES. Apricot Apricot bombe. bombe. BoMBE BOMBE ABRIcoTINE ABRICOTll\.'E -- Line Line a mould mould with with chocolate ice cream. Fill fil! with with Mousse Mousse (bombe\ (bombe) mixture (see (see chocolate ice ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES), fCES), flavoured flavoured with with apricot brandy brandy purée. or apricot pur€e. Apricot Apricot bouchdes. bouchées. soucH6Es BOUCHÉES iÀ L'.nnnlcot L'ABRICOT - These cakes can be made made with with either Genoese Genoese or sponge batter, batter, and are can be filled and coated coated with with apricot apricot jam. jam. Ingredients.250 Ingrediems. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,generous OZ., generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 88 whole whole eggs, eggs, 200 g. (7 oz.,l| OZ., li cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I~ cup plus 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) best best butter, a a small glass of kirsch or rum. Method. Melhod. Beat Beat the sugar sugar and the the eggs in a copper bowl on a low heat, or or over over hot water. water. When the mixture mixture becomes pale, pale, light and frothy, blend in carefully carefully the sieved flour and the melted butter (to (to which which the Ihe chosen chosen flavouring flavouriog has has been melted butter added). added). Pour Pour the mixture mixture into into shallow shallow round round moulds (cake (cake or muffin tins) filling filliug up to three-quarters. Cook for about 20 cool. When minutes in a slow oven. oyen. Turn out and allow a/1ow to ta cool. quite bouchée in half with aa thin sharp sha rp knife, knife, qui te cold, eut cut each bouchde kirsch-flavoured ta avoid crumbling crumbling the sponge. Spread with kirsch-ftavoured to bouchies together the bouchées sandwich the jam, then then sandwich together again. apricot jam, jam and all and coat the sides ail Brush with concentrated apricot jam round with chopped roasted almonds. almonds. Decorate Decorate the the tops glaal cherry. with half aa glacé Cook 16 I. ABRICOTS mntcors BoLIRDALoTJE Bourdaloue l. BOURDALOUE -- Cook Apricots Bourdalure Remove, vanilla-flavoured syrup. Remove, light vanilla-flavoured halves in in a light apricot halves two-thirds in aa shallow ovenproof dish two-Ihirds drain and and arrange in in milk milk and and bound with semolina cooked in filled filled wilh bound with with 22 egg semolira pudding). SEMOLINA, English semo/ina pudding). yolks (see SEMOLlNA, sprinkle Coyer Cover the apricots with a light layer of semolina, sprînkle of teaspoon of and aa teaspoon wÎlh with the crumbs of 2 crushed macaroons and oven for a few minutes fine powdered sugar. Put in a very hot aven to glaze the top. to jam (apricot jam sauce (apricot and kirsch kirsch sauce with an apricot and Serve wilh an apricot which the the apricots apricots were in which syrup in with the the syrup down with thinned thinned down and laced with aa tablespoon of kirsch). cooked, strained and BouRDALour -- Cook Cook II. ABRICOTS lnnlcors BOURDALOUE Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue ll. on aa layer of of in syrup, halve them, and place on apricots lightly in in an an ovenproof ovenproof 1-1'I7Y10',nt7Y1P cream cream (see FRANGIPANE) in Frangipane flan shell. shell. dish or or on on aa flan dish and butter, and and melted melted butter, macaroons and with crushed crushed macaroons Sprinkle with Sprinkle and kirsch sauce sauce as as glaze in an apricot apricot and Serve with an in the the oyen. oven. Serve glaze above. above.

Decant Decant the the apricots apricots and and syrup syrup into into an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and and leave leave overnight. overnight. Next drain the the apricots apricots and and boil bail the the syrup syrup (it (it should should Next day, day, drain not be above above l2o 12~ on on the the syrup syrup gauge). Add Add +t cup sugar, and and not be bring ISO on on the the syrup gauge. When it is boiling, add add bring up up to to 18' the the apricots, apricots, bring bring again again to to the boil, and return to the earthenware is called called 'grving 'giving a a dressing'.) dressing'.) ware bowl. bowL (This (This operation is Continue to give give aa dressing dressing in in this this manner manner every every other other day. day. Continue to When by 6' 6c each each time. time. Add Add sugar sugar When boiling, boiling, bring bring the the syrup up up by and and boil boil down down when when there there is too too much much sYruP, syrup, which which must, must, however, however, completely completely cover caver the the fruit fruit each each time. time. When up to to 30' 30~ (average (average syrup syrup density) - that that is, is, When itit comes up after after the tbe third third dressing dressing - do do not not bring bring itil up up by more more than than 4o, 4° and and give give the the dressings dressîngs only only every 3 days. Proceed in in this manner 36° (moderately (moderately thick). thick). manner until uoti! the syrup reaches 36' Stone the apricots by by inserting inserting a a copper copper needle needle at at the the stalk end and pushing the the stone stone towards towards the the incision incision made made at at the the beginning of the operation. operation. Some Sorne of of the the apricots may may not not look as good as damaged as the rest, rest, perhaps perhaps by being slightly damaged during the stoning Cut these these into into small pieces pieces and and stoning process. process. Cut stuff them into the the rest of of the the apricots apricots to to keep them them in in aa round an earthenware bowl. round shape. Lay them in in an Bring the syrup to the the boil, bail, check the degree degree (36'), (36'), and and pour pour it, iL, still boiling, over the apricots. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Spoon Spoon the apricots apricots and syrup into into jars jars and cover with with greaseproof greaseproof paper, as you would would jam. jam. Keep the jars in in aa cool, dry dry place. place. apricot comfits in Candied apricots or or apricot in brandy. brandy, ABRIcors ABRICOTS apricots of Choose very small, firm coNFITs A CONf1TS À t'eAU-or-vIEL'EAU-DE-VlE - Choosc firm apricots of as described uniform unifonn size. sue. Blanch Blanch them them as described in in the the recipe recipe for for cold water candied apricots above. Soak them an hour, hour, candied them in in cold water for for an syrup, which drain, and put them them in syrup, which should be be brought up to to at this the syrup at 25'(see them in the Ihîs degree for 25° (see SUGAR). Leave them jars. Fill put them into and put 4 days, days, then drain, and inta preserving preserving jars. Fill with the following mixture: withthe (lf, pints, pints, candied, 1I litre in which the Syrup in the fruit fruit was was candied, litre (Ii Syrup generous quart). (lf pints, pints, generous generous litre (li of 90", Il litre tasteless, of90", Neutral Neutral alcohol, tasteless, quart). quart). pod, or vanilla essence essence or lI teaspoon teaspoon vanilla of vallilla vanilla pad, Add a piece of per 2 litres 2 litres or kirsch kirsch per cup) rum or scant ~I cup) or 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant or jars ($ pints, quarts) liquid. well. When When the the jars Mix weIl. pints, generous generous 2 liquid. Mix 2 quarts) or with with tops, or with their their special special tops, them with have been filled, filled, seal seal tbem cork lids. humiprotected both from heat heat and and humiboth from in a cool place, protected Keep în ready for for use. use. fruit will will he be ready the fruit At the end end of one month the dity. At (r, (petit fours). nnntcors (À fous). ABRICOTS brandy (petit in brandy apricots ln Caramel IIprÎCots Caramel preserved apricots apricots as as Drain the preserved cARAMET -- Drain AU CARAMEL L'EAU-DE-vIE) AU L'EAU-DE-VIE) below). apricots (see below). for Cryszallised Crystallised apricols recipe for in the described in the recipe descrihed one by dip them, one by gum arabic, powdered gum arabic, then then dip in powdered Roll them them in Roll (see SUGAR). SUGAR). stage (see crack stage in sugar cooked cooked to to crack one, in one, marble slab, slab, and and slightly oiled on aa slightly oiled marble carefully on Space them them carefully Space paper cases. cases. quite dry, put them into flulcd fluted paper them into when they they are are quite when Fruit charJol/es. charlottes. Apricot charlotte charlotte -- See CHARLOTTE, Fruit Apricot Halve the the apricots, apricots, coLBERT -- Halve ABRIcors COLBERT Colbert apricots. apricots. ABRICOTS Colbert light syrup fruit inin aa light the fruit and poach the remove the the stones, stones, and remove gently l'rom to (flavoured with from 8 to Simmer genlly with vanilla, if desired). Simmer (ftavoured fruit. Cool. ripeness of of the Cool. the fruit. on the the ripeness 10 rnjnutes, minutes, depending on 10 few in aa fruit fruit dish; dish; add add aa fcw apricots in To serve, serve, arrange arrange the apricots To pour itit over over the fruit. syrup and the fruit. the syrup and pour kirsch to to the drops of of kirsch drops To be peeled. Ta halved apricots can can be the halved For this compote the this compote For halves for aa few few dip the apricot halves the operation easier, dip make the operation easier, make by adding adding Flavour the compote compote by water. Flavour into boiling water. seconds into seconds from the the have been been extracted extracted from which have kernels which few of of the the kernels to itit aa few and blanched. blanched. apricot stones, stones, and See COMPOTE. COMPOTE. Apricot comlnte -- See (old recipe). ABRICOTS coNof -- Cook Cook ABRIcors CONDÉ Apricots Conde (old Apricots (q.v.) on aa savarin savarin (q.v.) arrange on in syrup. apricots in syrup. Drain, arrange halved apricots halved with kirsch. kirsch. flavoured with syrup flavoured apricot syrup and top with apricot top with and

(apricot comftts). ABRIcors comfits). ABRICOTS apricob (apricot or crystallised crystallised aprlcots Candied Candied or size. of unifonn uniform size. firm white apricots, apricots, of very firm Choose very - Choose the stalk. stalk. end to to the at the the opposite end light incision at Make aa ligbt full of cold of cold time, in a copper pan full few at at aa ume, Put them. them, aa few Put water, are ""'''''M.I",t,,..hl completely covered. Place the pan water, so so Ihat that they they are the surface, surface, rise to to the as the apricots apricots rise low l'lame. As saon soon as flame. As over over aa low perforated spoon and feel feel spoon and with aa perforated the water with take them them out out of of the take this isis the the softened; this thoroughly softened; see if if they they are are thoroughly them la to see them operation. blanching operation. Ul"',"'w,WlI!', which water, which 12 hours hours in in cold cold watcr, for 12 apricots for Soak the apricots hours. should be be changed changed every every 22 hours. should water, to l.i lf cups water, sugar to cup sugar syrup: 1I cup Prepare the the following following syrup: Prepare this SUGAR). Pour this 18" by to 18° by aa syrup gauge (see SUGAR). boiled boiled ta put have becn been put which have the drained apricots, which syrup over over the boiling boiling syrup high pan. Bring over aa high boil over Bring to to the the boil in the back in the copper copper pan. back flame. Rame. coNFITs CONFITS

43 43

APRICOT APRICOT Garnish the middle of the middle savarin with of the the savarin with aamixture mixtureof of25 25g.g. Garnish oz., i* cup) cup) cornmeal cornmeal or or maize maize ftour flourcooked cooked ininaa double double (1(l oz., (lI pints, boiler with with scant pints, 44cups) scant litre litre O-!cups)scalded, scalded, sweetened, sweetened, boiler

CREAMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle the apricots with theapricots withfine finesugar glaze sugarand andglaze CREAMS). veryhot hotoyen. oven. ininaavery Whenready ready totoserve, serve,add addtotothe dishaafew fewtablespoons thedish tablespoons of of When apricotsauce sauce laced lacedwith with kirsch. kirsch. apricot Apricob flambé flambe ininkirsch. kirsch. ABRICOTS ABRrcors FLAMBÉS rL,qMsEsAU AUKIRSCH Apricots KrRscH- Cook apricots apricots ininsyrup, syrup, drain, drain, halve put22orot33 halvethem, them, and andput Cook halves into into individual individual fireproof fireproof dishes. dishes. Add Addtotoeach eachdish dish22 halves tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons)of of the thesyrup syrupininwhich tablespoons which the the apricots were were cooked, cooked, blended blendedwith withsorne somecornftour cornflour oror apricots point. arrowroot. Heat Heat to toboiling boiling point. arrowroot. pour into When ready ready to toserve, serve, pour intoeach When eachdish dishaateaspoon teaspoonof of kirsch and andset set ititalight. alight. kirsch Apricotflan flan -- See SeeTA TART. R T. Apricot Apricotfritters fritters-- See FRITTERS. SeeFRITTERS. Apricot Apricotice icecream ICE CREAMS cream -- See See ICE Apricot AND ICES. ICES. CREAMS AND Apricots ài l'impératrice l'imp6rahice 1.I. ABRICOTS Apricots ,rnnrcors ÀA L'IMPÉRATRICE L'rMpERArRrcE- Three-quarters fill fill aa dessert dessert dish dishwith Three-quarters with Rice Rice àdl'impératrice l'impiratrice (see RICE). RICE). Set place, on Set in inaacold possible.Cook (see cold place, ice,ifif possible. onice, Cookaa dozen apricots apricots in inaasugar sugar syrup dozen syrupftavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, drain drain well, halve halve the the apricots, apricots, and weil, andarrange arrangethem them ininaacircle circleon onthe the jelly (see rice. Top Top them them with with aacoating rice. coating of (seeJAMS of redcurrant redcurrant jelly JAMS jelly). Decorate AND JELLlES, JELLIES, Currant AND Curuant jelly). Decorate with with cherries cherriesand and lozenges of lozenges of angelica. angelica. Keep Keep on on ice iceuntil until ready ready to toserve, serve, then then put the the dish dish on put larger one onaalarger one covered covered with with aanapkin, napkin,and andsursurround with with crushed round crushed ice. ice.

vanilla-flavoured milk, milk, until until thick. thick. Dilute Dilute the the mixture mixture with with vanilla-ftavoured cream. Make Make little little cork-shaped cork-shaped croquettes croquettes from from the the corn corn cream. meal or maize Hour or maize flour mixture, mixture, and place them and place round the them round the meal savarin. savarin. Apricots Condé Cond6I. ABRrcors CONnÉ coNpf -- Fill Fill three-quarters three-quarters of ofaa Apricots J. ABRICOTS (see RICE). shallow fireproof dish with with Dessert fireproof dish Dessert rice rice (see RICE). Cook Cook shallow apricot halves halves in in syrup, syrup, drain, drain, and and arrange arrange them themon on the the rice. rice. apricot glac€ cherries Decorate with with glacé cherries and and angelica angelica cut cut into into lozenges. lozenges. Decorate Heat thoroughly thoroughly in in the the oyen, oven, and and serve servewith with Apricot Apricot and and Heat (see SA kirsch sauce sauce (see SAUCE). kirsch UCE).

Apricots Condé (Scarnati) Cond6 (Scarnali) Apricots

Apricob Condé lsnrcors CONDÉ Cond6 II. II. ABRICOTS coNo6 -- Arrange the Apricots the apricot apricot (see RICE). halves on aa ring of Dessert rice (see RICE). Stud Stud the apricots apricots

with halved, almonds, and and decorate glaci with halved, blanched almonds, decorate with with glacé cherries angelica. Heat through in cherries and lozenges of ange!ica. in the the oyen oven (see SAUCE). ond kirsch sauce (see and serve with Apricot Apricot and SAUCE). Apricot coupe -- See See ICE CREAMS AND ICES. Apricot crofite. cno0rB AUX AUx ABRICOTS croûte. CROÛTE ABRrcors -- Arrange Arrange aa dozen dozen or so slices of savarin in a circle on a dish, s!ices of dish. as described in the the recipe recipe for Fruit crofites croûtes (see CROÛTES) CROUTES) replacing the pineapple slices by by aa layer of apricot jam spread spread evenly evenly on on the savarin slices. slices. Cook halved apricots in syrup, drain them, and and lay them on on the the savarin savarin slices. Decorate Decorate with with crystallised fruit. fruit. Heat in the the oven oyen and serve with with Apricot and kirsch sauce or Madeira sauce SA U CE). sauce (see SAUCE). Crystallised apricob apricots in brandy (petits fours). Crystallised (a forns). ABRICOTS mnrcors (À L'EAU-DE-vrr) L'EAU-DE-VIE) cnrsr.lrrrsfs CRISTALLISÉS - Use Use apricots which which have have been been preserved (see Candied Candied apricots in preserved in brandy (see in brandy). brandy). Lay Lay fiat sieve sieve and drain for 2 hours. hours. Melt aa the apricots on a flat little water. Put the apricots in aa bowl and !ittle gum arabic in water. pour the the gum arabic over them, them, a a little at time, gently at aa time, shaking the the bowl until until all ail the apricots apricots are coated. coated. shaking Remove them, them, one one at a time, with cooking cooking tongs, tongs, and roll Remove them in in crystallised sugar. sugar. Leave Leave for an hour on aa wire cake them cake sieve, and when when they they are quite dry arrange them in paper sieve, cases. cases. la diable. ABRrcors ABRICOTS A À r,c, LA otesr.r DIAELE - Spread Apricots ià la Apricots - Spread the ftat sides sides of of 88 large large macaroons macaroons with a layer of apricot jam flat ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Place Place them on a fireproof fireproof dish dish in aa flavoured circle. circle. Cook the the same sa me number number of of apricots apricots in in syrup, drain, halve Cook and place place 2 2 halves halves on on each macaroon. macaroon. Spread Spread over over them, and them, them a a few few teaspoons teaspoons of Praline Praline castard custard crectm cream (see (see them

Apricots Apricots àd l'impératrice I'imp€ratrice IlII

Apricots 'IMPÉRA TRICE Apricots ài l'impératrice I'imp6ratrice II. II. ABRICOTS asnrcors ÀA LL'rMpfRATRrcE Prepare (see RICE) Prepare Rice àd l'impératrice l'impiratrice (see RICE) in in aa charlotte charlotte mould. mould. Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a Turn it out into a shallow fruit bowl and arrange on it a syrup and circle circle of halved apricots, of halved apricots, cooked cooked in· in'syrup and drained. drained. Decorate with glacé glac€ cherries cherries and lozenges of and lozenges of angelica. angelica. This This method of presentation may may be be applied applied to to ail all fruit fruit desserts desserts àd l'impératrice. I'impiratrice. The Id, tumed The rice rice can can also also be be served served in in aa savarin savarin mou mould, turned out onto onto aa dish, dish, the the centre centre filled filled with with cooked, cooked. drained drained half half apricots. jam -- See Apricot Apricot jan See JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES. JELLIES. Apricot Apricot omelette.· omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX AUX ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- See See EGG, EGG, Omelette: Jam andfruit Omelette: Jarn andfruit omelette. omelette. Apricot oreillons. Apricot oreillons. OREILLONS D'ABRrcors -- Halved oRETLLoNS D'ABRICOTS Halved apricots apricots are ca lied Apricot Apricot oreillons. called oreillons. They They are are bottled bottled in in water water or or aa sugar syrup. sugar syrup. Apricot pudding. pudding. POUDING Apricot eouorNc AUX Aux ABRICOTSABRrcors - See See PUDDING, PUDD I NG, Fruit pudding. Fruit 44 44

ARCHESTRATUS ARCHESTRATUS Only Only two two species species of of apron apron are are known, known, one one which which is is found found

in Danube, and and the the common common apron, apron, which which abounds abounds in in in the the Danube,

the Rhône and and all ail its its tributaries. tributaries. the Rhdne The The apron apron rarely rarely exceeds exceeds 18 18 cm. cm. (7 (7 inches) inches) in in length. length. The The upper upper part part of of its its body body is is yellowish yellowish brown brown streaked streaked with with down obliquely darkish darkish bands bands or or stripes, stripes, which which extend extend obliquely down its its sides. is aa greyish greyish white, white, its its fins fins are are yellow yellow spotted spotted sides. Its Its belly belly is with with grey. grey. Its Its flesh flesh is is very very succulent succulent and and resembles resemb1es that that of of perch, perch, and and it it is is much much appreciated appreciated by by gastronomes. gastronomes. For For culinary culinary preparation preparation see see PERCH. PERCH.

ARAB ARAB COOKERY COOKERY -- See See ALGERIA. ALGERIA . comshellfish comARAPEDE ARAPEDE -- French French name name for for a a univalve univalve shellfish way as as same way monly found found in in Provence. Provence. It It is is prepared prepared in in the the same

Aprico! omelette omelette Apricot

cockles. cockles.

(Franche-Comte) which which Jura (Franche-Comté) small town ARBOIS ARBOIS - A A small town in in the the Jura ros€ red and and rosé white, red esteemed white, has given its to highly highly esteemed its name to (See FRANCHE-COMTE.) wines. (See FRA NCHE-COMTÉ.)

Apricot sauce sauce -- See See SAUCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Apricot Apricot sorff6 soufflé -- See See SOUFFLES, SOUFFLÉS, Sweet souffiis. soufflés. Apricot Apricots preserved preserved in in syrup. syrup. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'ABRICors D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots Compote of SIROP -- The The procedure procedure is is exactly the the same as for Compote asfor slRop Preserved fruit fruit in in comapricots in syrup (see COMPOTE, Preserved pote). pote). Apricots preserved au au naturel. naturel. coNsERvE CONSERVE D'AsnIcots D'ABRICOTS AU Apricots NATUREL - Pack the the apricots apricots into preserving jars jars without NATUREL adding either either water or sugar. Screw on the lids Iids and sterilise adding (194°F.). 90'C. (194'F.). for 15 to 20 minutes at 90°C. ABRICOTS AU RIz RIZ - Cook Apricots with rice. ABRIcors Cook 1I cup rice in Apricots sweetened milk milk which has been been flavoured with vanilla. 2 cups sweetened 2 Place in a fruit dish. Cook halved halved apricots in aa sugar syrup, stone them, and arrange arrange on the bed bed of few rice. Add Add aa few of rice. on the stone them, and tablespoons of apricot sauce, if desired hot or cold. Serve hot desired.. Serve tablespoons Apricots with rice and meringue. ABRICOTS lu nsnNcuEs AU ABRIcors MERINGUÉS Apricots (see RIZ - Cook rice (see (4 oz., 1 as for g. (4 for Dessert rice rice as 125 g. cup) rice ntz f cup) - Cook 125 dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an thick layer on RICE) and and arrange arrange it in aa thick Cook aa dozen or so apricots in aa sugar syrup with flavoured with syrup flavoured vanilla, halve and in aa circle circle the halves in them. Arrange the and stone them. on the (q.v.), smoothing the sursursmoothing the rice. Coyer the rice. Cover with meringue (q.v.), face. edge. piped round round the the edge. meringue piped face. Decorate with meringue Sprinkle oven, in aa moderate moderate oyen, sugar and and bake bake in with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with raising to last moment moment to the last at the to very very hot hot at raising the the temperature to make the golden brown. decorate baked, decorate When baked, the meringue golden brown. When the redcurrant piped edge and redcurrant little apricot apricot and with aa 1ittle further with the piped edge further jelly, jelly, alternating served usually served This dessert dessert isis usually colours. This alternating the the colours. hot, be served served cold. cold. hot. but itit can can also also be Pineapple, pears and peaches, pears apples and apples cherries, peaches, Pineapple, bananas, bananas, cherries,

La Here is is La popular dessert. dessert' Here most popular Once aa most ARBOLADE ARBOLADE - Once pan and add and add in aa pan little butter butter in 'Melt aa little for it: it: 'Melt Varenne's recipe for juice, sugar pinch of salt. Cook Cook of salt. and aa pinch pear juice, sugar and yolks of of egg, egg, pear yolks pale Colour aa pale water. Colour flower water. with flower sweeten with then sweeten iogether, together, then green and and serve.' apple, aa cane apple, the cane of the Fruit of ARBousE -- Fruit ARBUTUS BERRY. ARBOUSE parts of of southern parts profusion in in the the southern in profusion found in is found shrub which is Canary the Canary and the Europe and southern Europe Mexico, southern America, Mexico, North America, North Islands. parts of southern of southern grown in some parts in some which isis grown shrub, which This shrub, Thls strawas strawknown as also known Languedoc, isis also in the the Languedoc, mainly in France, mainly France, its of its and colour colour of shape and to the the shape name to this name It owes owes this tree. It berry tree. its neither its has neither but has strawberry but the strawberry resembles the which resembles fruit, which fruit, flesh. its melting melting fiesh. nor its scent nor scent and wine and of wine suppliers main su the main are the Algeria and A Spain and 1Italy, taly, Spain Igeria are ppliers of berry. arbutus berry. the arbutus from the distilled from spirits distilled spirits yields aa also yields berry also this berry fruit of of this the fruit spirits, the wine and and spirits, Besides wine Besides of reputation of has the the reputation which has crime dd'arbouse, called crème liqueur called 'arhouse, which liqueur digestion. helpful to to digestion. being helpful being and are sweet, sweet, and they are ripe; they when ripe; fleshy when very fleshy are very Tde berries beiries are The to be astrinbeastrinreputed to They are are reputed after-taste. They acid after-taste. faintly acid have aa faintly have gent and diuretic. and diuretic. gent

-

arch.lts known asasarch. commonly known mollusc commonly bivalve mollusc ARCA -- AA bivalve Its ARCA the allthe found on onail are found colour, are rather aadark dark colour, which are are of of rather shells, which shells, France. of France. coasts coasts of wayasas' prepared in thesame sameway in the raw or or prepared eaten raw mollusc isiseaten This mollusc This mussels. mussels.

can preshould preThe fruit prepared in fruit should same manner. manner. The in the the same can be be prepared viously in stewed in poached in syrup or or stewed in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup viously be be poached butter; le, halved, slices, or or diced. diced. whole, halved, in in slices, used who butter; itit can can be be used Apricot TARTLET. TART, TARTLET. See TART, Apricot tarts tarb and ta;tleb -- See and ta.rtlets

of southernshores onthe situated on town,situated ARCACHON-This ARCACHON - This town, the southern shores of (aninlet dear Biscay), isisdear Bayof ofBiscay), theBay inlet of ofthe d'Arcachon (an Bassin d'Arcachon the Bassin the for ofoysters, oysters,for lovers of gastronomes and and lovers of gastronomes heartof the heart to to the (andfor for beds(and oysterbeds magnificent oyster for its itsmagnificent famous for Arcachon Arcachon isisfamous particular). gravettes 'tes inin particular). its itsgraVé

APRJCOTING. used inin This .is the the term term used ,c,nntcorER -- Thisis APRICOTING. ABRICOTER pâtisserie in covering covering consists in which consists pdtisserie to operation which to define define the the operation aacake cake or which has has been been layer ofapricotjam of apricotjam which sweet with with aa thin thin layer or sweet boiled with liqueur, liqueur, flavoured with down to thick consistency, consistency,flavoured boileit down to aa thick and passed through fine strainer. strainer. and passed through aa fine

of speciesof givenininLorraine Lorraine totoaaspecies Namegiven ARCAI'TEITE ARCANETTE -- Name from andfrom tealand froman anordinary ordinary teal differs from local teal. teal.ItItdiffers small small local foundininitsits andisisfound migrate, notmigra garganey ininthat doesnot thatititdoes garganey te, and swift' butswift. shortbut Itsflight flightisisshort yearround. round.Its theyear native landail allthe native land species twospecies thetwo shooting,the likeduck duckshooting, Arcanette shootingisislike Arcanetteshooting being behaviour. ofsimilar similarbehaviour. beingof much andmuch excellentand ofteal tealisisexcellent speciesof thisspecies The Theflesh fleshof ofthis compared canbebecompared gastronomes. InIntaste tasteititcan bygastronomes. appreciated appreciated by preparation see DUCK. seeDUCK. For culinarypreparation duck. with . Forculinary withthat thatofwild of wildduck

Apron Apron

ARCA. ARCH SeeARCA ARCH- -See

APRON body elongated body rounded,elongated withaarounded, fish,with smallfish, APRON - - AA small covered the flattened,the headisisflattened, Itshead scales. Its rough scales. withvery veryrough covered with snout th , its placedatat finsare areplaced protrudes above mouth, itsdorsal dorsalfins itsmou aboveits snout protrudes aadistance large. gillslits arelarge. slitsare itsgill eachother, other,its distancefrom fromeach

ANGELICA' SeeANGELICA. ARcHANGfLIQUE - -See ARCHANGELICA. ARCHAI\GELICA. ARCHANGÉLIQUE was s.c.,who whowas 350B.e., poetofofabout about350 Greekpoet ARCHESTRATUS ARCHFSTRATUS- -Greek authorofofa a wasthe theauthor Hewas said.He gastronome,ilitisissaid. greatgastronome, a avery verygreat

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(AL') ARCHIDUC (À L') ARCHIDUC work verse, Gasfronomy, of which only a few short fragwork ininverse, Gaslrol1omy, of which only a rew short fragments have survived. ments have survived. Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although Archestratus was born, it is believed, in Athens, although say in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily; and he lome say sorne in Gela, an ancient town in southern Sicily, and he lived for long time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned lived for aalong time in Syracuse. He was chiefly renowned for the numerous voyages he he made made toto colleet collect notes notes on on for the numerous voyages culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. culinary methods and the eating habits of different nations. Archestratus sometimes referred to as a cook. From the Archestratus isissometimes referred to as a cook. From the writings of authors of the time it is apparent that he was more writings ofauthors of the time it is apparent that he was more of a gastronome and an able wdter, not a cookery technician. ofa gastronome and an a bic writer, not a cookery technician. He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. He can be described as the Brillat-Savarin of his time. The most reliable data we have concerning this poetThe most reliable data we have concerning this poetgastronome comes from Deipnosophistai or Specialists in gastronome cornes from Deipnosophistai or Specialisls in Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from Dining by Athenaeus, a work translated into French from the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find the Latin text by Michel de Marolles in 1680. There we find all that pertains to gastronomy, gastronomy, food production, cookery ail that pertains to food production, cookery and ceremonial banquets. and ceremonial banquets. Here is what Barth€lemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of Here is what Barthélemy, inspired by Athenaeus, says of Archestratus: Archestrat us: 'This author was a friend of one of pericles' sons. He a friend of one of Perieles' sons. He 'This author was crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was crossed many lands and seas to find out for himself what was the best they had to offer. In his voyages he did not study the the hest they had to otfer. In his voyages he did not study the customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study customs and manners of peoples, which it is useless to study since it is impossible to change them, but went into the since it is impossible to change them, but went into the places where the delights of the table were manufactured, places wbere tbe delights of the table were manufactured, and had no dealings except with people who catered for and had no dealings except with people who eatcred for these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not these pleasures. His poem is a shining treasure, and does not contain a single verse which is not a plea for gastronomy.' contain a single verse which is nol a plea for gastronomy.' ARCHIDUC (A L') - A term applying to a great number of ARCHIDUC (À V) - A lerm applying 10 a great number of preparations. Dishes d I'archiduc are usually seasoned with preparations. Dishes à l'archiduc are usually seasoned with paprika and blended with cream. (See EGGS; CHICKEN. paprika and blended with cream. (Sec EGGS; CHICKEN, Chicken sauti Ar chduke.') Chicken sauté Archduke.)

someresemblance resemblance totothe peacock, and thepeacock, andisisround found ininJava Java and and sorne Sumatra. Sumatra. The flesh flesh of ofargus pheasant isis very argus pheasant verydelicate. delicate. Ail All the the The preparation given methods of of preparation given for pheasant (q.v.) for pheasant (q.v.)are are also methods also applicable totoargus pheasant. argus pheasant. applicable

ARIDGE -- The The Ariège Aridge dépanemenl dipartemenl of of France, France, situated situated on on ARIÈGE theSpanish Spanish frontier frontier between between Haute-Garonne Haute-Garonne ininthe thewest westand and tbe Pyrdn€es-Orientales inin the the east, east, isis chiefly chiefly famous famous for for the the Pyrénées-Orientales mineral waters watersof of the the thermal thermal springs springsat at the the spas spas ofAx of Ax and and minerai Aulus. Aulus. Among Ariège Aridge culinary culinary specialities specialities Ihere there are good are many many good Among dishes; above above ail, all, those those ririch in fat fat meat. meat. dishes; eh in Excellent Confits (se CONFIT) Confits d'oie d'oie (see CONFIT) are are made made in in this this Excellent region. The The Ariège Aridge geese geese have have aa very very fine fine flesh. flesh. Ariège pork Aridge pork region. also of quality, and of high high quality, and isis made good charculerie; made into into good charcuterie; isis also Aridge bams hams and and sausages sausages are are famous. famous. (See (See LANGUEDOC.) LANGUEDOC.) Ariege

ARIEGEOISE (À (A V) L') -= Name given to Name given to various various dishes dishes ARIÉGEOlSE almost ail all of of whieh which include include the the following following ingredients ingredients as as almost garnish: green green cabbage pickled pork, cabbage and pork, and and pickled and- sometimes sometimes gamish: kidney beans. (See CHI beans. (See CHICKEN Stffid chicken chicken àd l'ariégeoise; I'ariigeoise; kidney CKEN,, Stuffed MUTTON, Sluffed Stufed breasi breast of of mullon mutton cid l'ariégeoi5e.) I'ariigeoise.) MUTTON, (Harlequin) --The ARLEQUIN (Harlequin) (or rather was, arlequrn is is (or was, for for ARLEQUIN The arlequin is_almost past) an thing of of tbe the past) an assortment assortment of of scraps of of itit is almost aa thing food, bought bought from from bottle bottle washers or or washers-up washers-up in in restaufood, rants. rants. The scraps scraps were were made made to to look look palatable palatable and and sold The sold to to people of of small small means, means, who cou could, for aa few few sous, have have the the Id, for people illusion good of eating eating aa good meal. illusion of These bits pieces were also ealled bits and and pieees jewels. called bijoux -- jewels. These Privat d'Anglemont d'Anglemont says: says: 'Arlequin is is so so called because Privat because these dishes are are composed composed of of bits pieces, thrown and pieces, thrown 10tothese dishes bils and gether in parti-coloured gether in aa haphazard haphazard fashion, just just like like the parti-eoloured tights of citizen of tights of the the citizen of Bergamo. A A bucket of pieces costs 33 francs; francs; there there you you can can find find everything, everything, from from trufled truffied chicken and chicken and game game to to beef beef and cabbage.' cabbage.' ARLES ARLES -- Many Many famous famous gastronomic gastronomie products produets originate originate in this neigbbourhood, situated in in the iouth south of this city city and and its its neighbourhood, France. France. Chief Chief among among them them is is the the celebrated saucisson d,Arles d'Arles (Arles (Arles sausage), sausage), but but the the region region also produces produces excellent oil. oil. (See PROVENCE.) (See PROVENCE.) ARLESIENNE ARLÉSIENNE (A (À L')L') - The The name na me applies applies to to dishes dishes some some of which which have have a a garnish garnish of of aubergines aubergines fried fried in in oil, oil, saut€ed sautéed tomatoes, tomatoes, and and onion onion rings rings dredged dredged in in flour flour and fried. fried. Another Another garnish garnish consists consists of of whole whole small small tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and eooked in in butter, bu 11er, and and very very [ender tender pickled pickled endive endive and cooked hearts hearts fried fried in in oil. oil. Yet small tomatoes Yet another anothergarnish garoish consists consists of ofsmall tomatoes stuffed stutfed with with pilaf pilaf and and browned browned on on top, top, large large olives olives stuffed stutfed with with chicken ehicken forcemeaf, forcemeat, and and new new potatoes. potatoes.

purptsh-red (Orchif Dyer's moss). ARCHIL moss). ORSEILLE oRsETLLE ARCHIL (Orcbil, Dyer's - Purplish-red paste made from lichen, used as colouring matter. It is paste made [rom lichen, used as colouring matter. lt is mainly used for tinting pickled tongue - langue d l,icarlate. mainly used for tinting pickled tongue -langue à l'écarlate. ARDENNAISE (A L') - A term applying mostly to dishes of ARDENNAlSE (À V) - A term applying mostly to dishes of small birds cooked in a cocotte with juniper berries. (See small birds cooked in a cocolle with juniper berries. (See

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THRUSH.) THRUSH.) The same name also applies to a method of preparing The same name also applies to a method of preparing crayfish (q.v.). crayfish (q.v.). ARDOISE (Slate) - Slang name given to the bills for meals ARDOISE (Stale) - Slang name given to the bills for meals taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were taken in cheap restaurants; in days gone by, these bills were written on a slate. written on asiate. ARENGA (Sugar paln) - A genus of palm tree. Its trunk ARENGA (Sugar palm) -- A genus of palm tree. Ils trunk contains abundant pith, which produces a large quantity of contains abundant pith, whieh produces a large quantity of starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the starchy matter, obtained by making an incision on the trunk, from which sago (q.v.) prepared. tnmk, from which sago (q.v.) is is prepared. From From the the clusters, clusters, which which develop develop all ail the the year year round round between the lower leaves, there is a flow of sweet sap which, hetween the lower leaves, there is a tlow of swect sap which, by simple evaporation, by simple evaporation, furnishes furrushes a a kind kind of of suglr sugar of of aa brownish colour, and, by a process of fermentation, a palm brownish colour, and, by a pro cess of fermentation, a palm wine. wine. In England In England and and in in some sorne parts parts of of France, France, where where imported imported sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, sago is to be had, fruit of the sugar palm, gathered green, is candied, and is much valued as a stomach remedy. is eandied, and is much valued as a stomacb remedy.

ARMADILLO. ARMADILLO. urou TATOU -- Small Small toothless toothless mammal mammai covered eovered with with scales, sc.ales, found found in in South South America. America. It1t isis about about the the size size of ofaa guinea-pig, guinea-pig, but bul more more highly highly esteemed esteemed as as meat. meat. ARMAGNAC ARMAGNAC -- Region Region in in the the old old province province of of Gascony, Gascony, now now almost almost entirely entirely included included in in the the dipartement département of of Gers. Gers. The The Armagnac Armagnac brandies brandies are are famous. famous. Armagnac Armagnac (which (which isis even even shaped shaped like like aa vine vine leaf) Ieaf) isis divided divided into into three three zones: zones: lower lowcr Armagnac, Armagnac, upper upper Armagnac, Armagnac, and and T€nardze. Ténarèze. (See (See sPrRrTs.) SPIRITS.) ARMORICAIIYE ARMORICAlNE -- Armorica Armorica (older (oider Aremorica) Aremorica) was was the the ancient ancient name namefor for aa region regioninin north-west north-west France Francecomprising comprising the thecoast coastof ofGaul, Gaul, between betweenthe the Seine Seineand and Loire Loirerivers. rivers. Armoricaine thename namegiven giventotoaavery verychoice choice Armoricainenowadays nowadaysisisthe variety varielyofofoysters oysters(q.v.). (q.v.).

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ARGENTEUIL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Asparagus cultivated cultivated in in the the Argenteuil Argenteuil region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputaiion. region, in Seine-et-Oise, enjoys a world-wide reputation. Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings, and spreads Nowadays, Argenteuil exports its 'cuttings' and spreads .Conthe renown the renown of of its its asparagus asparagus with wilh the the help help of of the the 'Confraternity ofthe Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASpARAGUS.) fraternity of the Argenteuil asparagus'. (See ASPARAGUS.) Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few Argenteuil wine once rivalled that of Suresnes. A few casks of it are still produced annually. casks of it are still produced annually. ARGUS PI{EASANT - Bird thus called because of the ARGUS PHEASANT Bird thus called because of the great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears great number of 'eyes' on its magnificent plumage. It bears 46 46

ARROWROOT ARROWROOT

of aromatics in

Medical Medical opinion opmiOn concerning concerning the the use use of aromatics in tolerate it, cookery cookeryvaries. varies. Some Sornedoctors doctorsdenounce denounceit, it, others others tolerate it, of aromatics Formerly it. upon yei insist and and yet others others insist upon it. Formerly the the use use of aromatics has, in and and itrong strong seasoning seasoning was was abused. abused. Modern Modern cookery cookery has, in excesses. these with away done measure, large large measure, done away with these excesses. use of iromatherapia Aromatherapia (treatment (treatment for for maladies maladies by by the the use of simply plants) plants) is is now now being being successfully successfully practised, practised, often often simply (See CONDIincorporated incorporated in in the the daily daily diet' diet. (See SEASONING' SEASONING, CONDIMENTS.) MENTS.) To impart some aroma to a AROMATISE. AROMATISE. ARoMATIsER AROMATISER -- To impart sorne aroma to a aromatised culinary preparation or oraa pastry. pastry. Pastries Pas tries are are also also aromatised culinary preparation with with liqueurs. liqueurs. plover. ARPBNTEUR ARPENTEUR -- Common Common French Frencb name name for for ployer. aromatic various made of liqueur old An ARQUEBUSE ARQUEBUSE -- An old liqueur made of various aromatic plants. plants. of eau Eau Eau d'arquebuse d'arquebuse - Also Also known known under under the the name name of eau or infusion by is obtained This beverage d'arquebusade. d'arquebusade. This beverage is obtained by infusion or lady's finger, maceration maceration of of vulnerary vulnerary plants plants (kidney (kidney vetch, vetch, lady's finger, wound-wort). wound-wort). ARRACACHA ARRACACHA or or ARRACACIAARRACACIA - Plant, Plant, native native of of ColumColumAmerica. bia, bia, which wbich grows grows in in the the Andes Andes and and in in North North America. is which produce flour a farinaceous, Its Its roots, roots, which which are are farinaceous, produce a flour which is cooked eaten eaten in in its its country country of of originorigin. The The roots roots can can also also be be cooked like like yams yams and and sweet sweet potatoes potatoes (q.v.). (q.v.). arraof the T[e The starch starch which which is is extracted extracted from from the the roots roots of the arraarrowroot. similar to is similar cacha cacha is to arrowroot. from distilled from given to spirit distilled Name given ARRACK. ARRACK. ARAcK ARACK - Name to aa spirit sugar and from either distilled is also Arrack rice. fermented fermented rice. Arrack is also distilled either from sugar and juice which seeps from the the juice or from ferment, or left to milk left coconut rnilk coconut to ferment, which seeps palm.In R€union coconut palm. the coconut made on on the incisions made through incisions In Réunion through parts the South South of most parts of the in most and in Madagascar and in Madagascar Island-, in Island, the cultivated, is cane sugar where sub-continent, African African sub-continent, where sugar cane is cultivated, the ferfrom ferdistilled from given to spirit distilled to aa spirit is also also given arrack is of arrack name of name juice squeezed out under a juice (sugar (sugar cane cane juice cane juice mented cane mented squeezed out un der a

ARMORICAINE ARMORICAINE(A (ÀL') V)-- Corruption Corruptionby bycertain certainauthors authorsof of the thename na meofofdishes dishescalled calleditàI'amiricaine, l'américaine,particularly particularlylobster. lobster. this corruption, As corruption,the thedish, dish,so sotypically typicallyProvenqal, Provençal, Asaaresult resultofofthis has hasbeen beenplaced placedunder underthe thepatronage patronageof oflegendary legendaryArmorica. Armorica.

AROMA. AROMA. ARoME AROME -- Gastronomically Gastronomically speaking, speaking, this this word word

describes describes the the characteristic characteristic fragrance fragrance ofvarious of variousdishes. dishes. The The word wordaroma aromaisisstronger strongerthan thaneither eitherodour odouror orsmell. smel!. The Theword word perfume, on the the other other hand, hand, isis more more specifically specifically reserved reserved for for perfume, on essences essences and and other other non-edible non-edible substances. substances. It It is is right right and and

proper proper that that gastronomical gastronomical literature literature should should have have aa termiterminology nology of ofits its own. own. We We say, say, the the aroma aroma of ofthis this consomm€, consommé, the the aroma aroma of of tfus thisfumet (q.v.), the the aroma aroma of of this this coffee. coffee. fumel (q.v.),

AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS. PLANTS. PLANTES PLANTES ARoMATIQUES AROMATIQUES - A A great great number of aromatic aromatic plants, plants, with with either either aa bland bland or or pungent pungent number of aroma, aroma, are are used used as as flavourings flavourings in in cookery. cookery. The The following following are are among among the the herbs herbs most most commonly commonly used used in in the the kitchen: kitchen: parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, rosemary, rosemary, thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, wild wild thyme, thyme, sage, savoury; and and the the following following are are the the most most common common aromatics: aromatics: garlic, garlic, shallots, spring spring onions, onions, chives chives and and onions. onions.

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AROMATICS. AROMATICS. lnounrns AROMATES -- Taken Taken in in its its general general sense, sense, this this out an an odour odour of of describes all ail substances substances which wbich give give out word describes varying varying degrees degrees of of sweetness. sweetness. The The greatest greatest number number of of aromatics is provided by plants of of hot hot countries, countries, notably notably aromatics concerned here with aromatics aromatics used used in in Arabia. We are only concerned cookery, pdtisserie pâtisserie and confectionery. confectionery. cookery, ancient practice, excesses of Without indulging in in the the excesses of ancient practice, when scents like rose water and benzoin were were used used on every every disposal aa cookery has possible occasion, present-day cookery has at its its disposai those great number of aromatics. The following are among those pepper' cinnacinnadill, betel pepper, as condiments: condiments: dill, widely used most most widely used as leaf, mace, mace, mustard' bay leaf, coriander, bay mon, cloyes, mustard, nutmeg, mon, cloves, coriander, for used mostly for pepper and pepper and thyme. Next come the aromatics used cumin, basil, cumin, anise, basil, anise, star anise, food: ambergris, ambergris, anise, flavouring food: etc. juniper, ginger, sage, etc. rosemary, sage, ginger, horseradish, horseradish, rosemary, fennel, juniper, for fresh' for used fresh, plants are are frequently frequently used aromatic plants Some aromatic Sorne exThe essence essence exparsley, etc. etc. The tarragon, parsley, chervil, tarragon, instance: instance: chervil, is and tangerines tangerines is lemons and peel of of oranges, oranges, lemons from the the peel tracted tracted from to the the in addition addition to and confectionery, confectionery, in Pdtisserie and also used. used. Pâtisserie also and chocolate and vanilla, tea, tea, chocolate use vanilla, also use mentioned, also aromatics aromatics mentioned, coffee. coffee. with are dealt dealt with onions are and onions shallots and onions, Garlic, spring spring on Garlic, ions, shallots well as as as weil order, as alphabetical order, in their their alphabetical entries in separate entries under under separate parsnip, which are which are and parsnip, celery and of carrot, carrot, celery roots of the aromatic aromatic roots the than aromatics. aromatics. vegetables than more vegetables really really more

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press). press). obtained extracts obtained given to to starchy starchy extracts Name given ARROWROOT -- Name ARROWROOT regions' tropical regions. plants of the tropical of the various plants of various roots of the roots from the from because the name originated originated because this name that this legend that is aa legend There is There the roots capable the from obtained sap the consideied Indians Indians considered the sap obtained from the roots capable name in Hence the the name arrows' Hence by arrows. caused by wounds caused healing wounds of healing of in arrowroot that arrowroot is, however, however, tbat fact is, The fact 'arrow-root'. The English, 'arrow-root'. English, flour-root, word for Indian American Indian word for flour-root, the American from the name from its name takes its takes araruta. araruta. Indian arrowroot arrowroot the West West Indian starches isis the these starches of these chief of The chief The plant from the plant because the called (Maranta arundinacea), thus ca arundinacea), thus (Maranta lied because from West Indies. in the the West produced originated originated in flour isis produced the flour which the which Indies. also called West and ititisisalso India and into India introduced itit into The English English introduced called West The Indian salep. salep. Indian Madagascar. grows in in Madagascar. plant also also grows The plant The Europe intoEurope imported into andisisimported edible and eminently edible Arrowroot isiseminently Arrowroot used inin starch isis used delicate starch very delicate This very quantities. This great quantities. in great in preparation the preparation wellasasinin the gravies,as asweil andgravies, soups and thicleningsoups thickening sweet dishes. numeroussweet puddings and andnumerous milk puddings blancmangei, milk ofblancmanges, of dishes. food valuedasasaafood especially valued arrowroot isisespecially Easilydigestible, digestible,arrowroot Easily aged. theaged. andthe invalids and young children, children, invalids for young for into Pour into t'nRRowRoor - - Pour LIAIsoN Ài L'ARROWROOT liaison LIAISON ,Amonnoot liaison. Arrowroot (or other) stock, veal(or quart) boiling boiling veal generousquart) (lf pints, pints,generous litre(li 11litre other) stock, stock coldstock littlecold withaalittle wellblended blended with arrowroot,weil tablespoonarrowroot, 1Itablespoon strain. andstrain. boiland theboil bringtotothe Mix,bring water. Mix, orwater. or Mix t'.nRnowRoor - - Mix porridge. BOUILLIE BouILLIEÀAL'ARROWROOT Arowroot porridge. Arrowroot cup) with33tablespoons tablespoonsCt6cup) arrowrootwith cup)arrowroot tablespoons(1(|cup) 33tablespoons the Bringthe pint,2t2|cups). cups).Bring dl.(l(l pint, from66d!. milk taken takenfrom cold co Id milk teaspoon either1Iteaspoon addingeither boil,adding theboil, milktotothe ofthe themilk remainderof remainder the Poursorne someofofthe sugar.Pour tablespoons)sugar. oz.,66tab.lespoons) saltoror7575g.g.(3Qoz., salt pan and cook thepan returntotothe arrowroot,ththen thearrowroot, hotrnilk milkonto ontothe en retum and cook hot

distillation Armagnac distillation leadingcentre centreorofArmagnac Gers,a aleading CellaratatCondom. Condom, Gers. Cellar (FrenchGovernmenl TouristOffice) Ofr.ce) Governrnent TouriSI (French

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ARSENIC ARSENIC gentlyfrom stirringfrom timetototime. time.Stock gently from 88toto10l0minutes, minutes, stirring from time Stock canbe beused usedinstead insteadof ofmilk. milk. can por.lDrNc ÀA L'ARROWROOT Arrowroot pudding. pudding. POUDING L'.e,nRownoor - _ See ArroWToot See PUDDING, Semolina Semo linapudding. pudding. PUDDING, ARSENIC - Anelement element which whichisisnormally normally present presentin inminute minute ARSENIC-An quantities ininthe thetissues tissues of of the thehuman human body (thyroid gland, body (thyroid gland, quantities gland, mammary marnmary gland, gland, head headand ind body body hair). thymus hair). lhymus gland, Certain vegetables vegetables (kohlrabi, (kohlrabi,turnips, turnips, certain certaincere cereils;, Certain aIs), sea sea fish,sea seasalt, salt,milk milk and and egg yolk contain eggyolk contiin sm quantitiej ofit, small fish, ail quantities of it, sufficient for for the the requirements requirements of of the theorganism. organism. sufficient ARTAGNAN (A LA D) Name garnish composed ofaagarnish composedof ARTAGNAN (À LA D') -- Name of of preparcd àd lala béarnaise cCpes prepared (see SAUCE), bCarnaise (see SAUCE), little littl; stuffed cèpes stuffed tomatoes and and cork-shaped cork-shaped potato potatocroquettes. croquettes. tomatoes garnish isis served This garnish served with with large large or pieces of or small small pieces This of meat meat poultry. and with with poultry. and

vinaigrette vinaigre t t e(see (seeHORS-D'ŒUVRE). HORS-D'GUVRE). Artichoke Artichoke hearts, hearts,cooked cooked and andchilIed, chilled, make make one oneof ofthe the best Id dishes. garnishesfor bestgarnishes forcocold dishes.They Theycan canbe bestuffed stuffedwith with various variousingredients. ingredients.They Theyare arealso alsoserved servedasasan anhors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. (Seealso (See also JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE.) ARTICHOKE.)

WHOLE WHOLE ARTICHOKES. ARTICHOKES.ARCTICHAUTS lncrrcHAurs ENTIERS ENrrERs Artichokes prepare Artichokes barigoule. barigoule. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs BARIGOULE BARrcouLE - - Prepare the the artichokes artichokes as as described described inin Whole Whole boi/ed boited artichokes artich;kes below. below. Fill Fill the theinsides insides with withaduxelles a duxelles (q.v.) (q.v.)mixture, mixture, adding adding to to ititaa quarter quarter of ofits itsvolume volume ininfinely finely shredded shredded fat fat bacon, bacon, the thi same same amount am_ount of of chopped chopped lean lean ham, ham, and and sorne some chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Surround Surround the the artichokes artichokes with with rashers rashers or or strips strips of of fat fat bacon, bacon, and and braise braise them them as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Large Large braised braised artichokes artichokes stuffed (see below). stuffed au gras (see au gras below). Finish Finish as is described described in in that that recipe. recipe. Note. Note. A A variant variant of of this this recipe recipe consists consists of of cooking cooking the the stuffed stuffed artichokes artichokes in in oil oil with with aa little little white white wine. wine. home home cookery, cookery, in in the the absence absence of of Demi-glace Demi-glace (see (see - InIn SA UCE), the SAUCE), the braising braising liquor liquor can can be be thickened thickened with Xneadea with Kneaded butter (see BUTTER). butter (see BUTTER). Whole lVhole boiled boild artichokes. artichokes. ARTICHAUTS ARTTcHAUTs ENTIERS ENrrERs BOUILLIS BourLL$ -Cut Cut off off the pull off the stalks, stalks, pull the hard off the hard outer outer leaves leaves and and trim trim them. them. Shorten Shorten them them evenly, evenly, cutting cutting off off the the tops tops to to twotwothirds thirds of of their their height. height. Wash, Wash, tie tie with with string string round round the the largest largest circumference, and and put them, them, bases bases downwards, downwards, into into aa saucesaucepan of pan of boiling boiling salted salted water. Cook, Cook, keeping keeping the the water water boiling, boiling, until until done; done; the the time time depends on on the the size size and and freshness freshness of of the the artichokes. artichokes. Drain, Drain, dry on ove the on aa cloth, cloth, rem remove string. Serve the string. Serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe chosen. The artichokes must must not not be be overcooked. overcooked. To To ensure ensure this, this, .give, under test test the bottom of the vegetable, vegetable, which which should should 'give' under very pressure when very light light pressure when cooked cooked sufficiently. sufficiently. If If the the artiartiin cold chokes are to be be served cold, put them them in cold water water as as soon soon as they are cooked. ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes with Boild with various cold cold sauces. sauces. ARTTcHAUTS BOUILLIS - Boil, Boil, cool and with one of the the following following BouILLrs and serve serve with one of sauces: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mustard, Tartare, Vinaigrette (see (see sauces: Tartare, Vinaigrette SAUCE). sAUCE). To serve serve artichokes artichokes cold, cold, cook them, them, scoop scoop out out the the choke, choke, To and remove remove the leaves leaves which which surround surround it. it. Replace Replace them them in in the the and of the the choke. choke. Season Season these these leaves leaves cavity left by the removal of cavity of chopped chervil chervil and and parsley. parsley. with a pinch pinch of with ARTICHAUTS Boiled artichokes artichokes with with vrrious various hot hot sauces. sauces. ARTTcHAUTS Boitd BOUILLIS -- Boil Boil as as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Whole Whole boiled boi/ed BouILLrs ar~ichokes, and and serve serve with with one one of of the the following following sauces: sauces: White, White, artichokes, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Butter, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline Mousseline (see Butter, Large braisod braised artichokes artichokes stufred stuffed au au gras gras (with (with meat). meat). cnos GROS Large ARTICHAUTS snArs6s BRAISÉS FARcIs FARCIS AU AU cRAS GRAS - pare Pare and and trim trim the the ARTTcHAUTS artichokes. Blanch Blanch for for 55 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. artichokes. or leave leave under under aa running running tap tap to to cool; cool; Plunge into into cold cold water water or Plunge drain and and remove rem ove the the choke. choke. drain Season, stuff stuff as as desired, desired, wrap wrap them them in in aa thin thin rasher, rasher, or or Season, offat fat bacon, bacon, and and tie tie with with string. string. Melt Melt some sorne butter butter in in aa slice, of slice, put in in finely finely shredded shredded bacon, bacon, onions onions and and carrots, carrots, sautépan, pan, put saut6 and place place the the artichokes artichokes on on this this foundation. foundation. Season Season and and add add and bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). aa bouquet and aa small small quantity quantity of ofwhite white wine wine until until Simmerin in butter butter and Simmer almostcompletely completely boiled boileddown; down; then then add add aa few few theliquor liquor isisalmost the tablespoons of of veal veal stock stock and and cook cook in in aa moderate moderate oven oven tablespoons Gas Mark Mark 4), 4), with with the the lid lid on on the thepan pan for for 55 55 180°C. (350'F., (350°F., Gas 180"C. to 60 60 minutes. minutes. Baste Baste frequently frequently during during cooking. cooking. to Drainthe theartichokes, artichokes,remove rem ove string stringand and bacon, bacon,and andplace place Drain onaadish. dish. Strain Strainthe theliquor liquorininwhich whichthey theywere were theartichokes artichokeson the cooked and and skim skim off off surplus surplus fat. fat. Stlain Strain again, again, add'Demiadd Demicooked (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),veal vealstock stockor orany anyother othersauce, sauce,according according glace(see glace

Artichoke orescence Artichoke showing showing infl inflorescence a. a. Large Large green green from from Laon Laon b. b. Camus Camus from Brittany Brittany c. Artichoke Artichoke bud bud

ARTICHOKF. ARTICHOKE. anrIcuAur ARTICHAUT - Vegetable Vegetable derived derived from from the tbe cardoon, by scientific scientific methods. methods. cardoon, vastly vastly improved improved by This This plant plant has has been been cultivated cultivated in in France France since since the the beginbeginning of the the. sixteenth sixteenth century century and and isis mentioned mentioned by by Rabelais. Rabelais. ning of brought to to France France by by It originated originated in in Sicily, Sicily, and and was was brought Catherine of them them that that sh! she Catherine de de Medici, Medici, who who ate ate so so many many of 'cuyda 'cuyda crever' crever' ('almost ('almost burst'). burst'). (Journal (Journal of of p. P. de de I'Estoile) l'Estoile) The The principal principal regions regions of of French French production production are are in in the the west Anjou); the the south-east sou th-east (provence (Provence and and the the west (Brittany (Brittany and and Anjou); Garonne valley; valley; the the Paris Paris region; region; and and Hyères region); region); the the Garonne lVbres

-

It

Roussillon. The most most sought sought after after are are the the laige large green green Roussillon. The

artichokes of Laon, Laon, the the camus camus of of Brittany, Brittany, the the violeiart! violet artiartichokes of choke choke of ofProvence, Provence, the the green green (or (or 'white') 'white') variety variety of ofthe the same same region, region, and and the the large large macau. macau. The The green green and and the the violet violet Provengal Provençal artichokes artichokes are are also also cultivated in North North Africa Africa and and exported exported to to France France at at the the cultivated in beginmng of the the season. season. The The bulk bulk of of French French production production beginning of takes ofMay May and and June. June. takes place placeinin the themonths months of The health-giving food, food, and and lends lends itself itselfto to The artichoke artichoke isis aa health-giving numerous numerous delicious delicious dishes. dishes. When Whenititisis young, young, and and therefore therefore very very tender, tender, itit isis eaten eaten raw, raw, dà lala croque-au-sel croque-au-selwhich which means means with 'nought but but aa grain grain of of salt', salt', dà Iala poivrade, poivrade, and and dà lala with 'nought

48 48

ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE

to to the the recipe. recipe. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liquor and and pour pour over over the the artichokes. artichokes. Large Large braised braiscd artichokes artichokes stuffed stulfed au au maigre maigre (without (without meat). meat). GROS ARTICHAUTS ARTICHAUTS snalsfs BRAiSÉS FARCIS fARCIS AU AU MAIGRE MAIGRE -- Proceed Proceed as as cRos described above, above, leaving leaving out out the the bacon bacon and and replacing replacing veal veal described stock by by vegetable vegetable stock. stock. stock braised artichokes. Ilrtichokes. pETITs PETITS ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS nnusfs BRAJSÉS -Small braised These These are are served served as as aa garnish garnish and and as as aa vegetable. vegetable. Choose Choose very very young young small small artichokes; artichokes; pare pare them, them, trim trim offthe off the stalks stalks evenly and rub rub the the bottoms bottoms with with lemon; lemon; blanch blanch in boiling boiling water water to to and which which has has been been added added salt salt and vinegar. vinegar. Dip Dip in in cold water water to cool, and and drain. drain. Place Place them, them, bases bases downwards, downwards, in in a buttdred buttered cool, sauté pan, pan, or or heavy heavy frying frying pan, pan, on ona foundation ofvegetables, ofvegetables, a foundation saute as described described in the the recipe recipe for for Large Large braised braised artichokes. artichokes. Cook as low heat with the lid on for about l0 10 minutes, minutes, and over a low finish cooking cooking as described described above. above. finish artichokes, and and use use as as indicated. indicated. Strain the Drain the artichokes, braising liquor, liqllor, reduce, reduce, skim off surplus fat, and pour this this braising sauce over the artichokes. artichokes. sauce Note. NOie. Small braised artichokes artichokes can also also be prepared au (without meat) by following following the instructions given maigre (without braised artichokes artichokes au maigre. maigre. for large braised put the artichokes saut€ One can put artichokes into a buttered sa uré pan withenough to out blanching, blancJüng, provided provided one one works works quickly quickly enough out prevent their going black. Artichokes Clamart. ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS cLAMART CLAMART - Choose 12 Artichokes and put them in a artiehokes; trim trlm them and very small young artichokes; saute pan, or heavy frying pan, with plenty sauté plenty of butter. Add cups) shelled fresh garden garden peas peas and 2 Add 225 g. (8 oz., 2 cups) shredded lettuce hearts. shredded hearls. Season Season with salt and sugar. Moisten (scant l~ cup) water. Cook Cook with the lid on, with 3 tablespoons (seant of simmering simmering gently. At the last moment, add aa tablespoon of butter. fresh butter. vegetable, being delicate and fragile, can be prepared This vegctable, being delicate saute pan, or in an earthenware bi-melal or aluminium sauté in a bi-metal same dish (to avoid or enamelware enamelware COCOlle, cocotte, and served in the same damage when transferring artichokes to a dish for table). transferring the arüchokes Artichokes Créey. ARTIcHAUTS CRÉCY cnfcv -- Proceed Proceed as Cr6cy. ARTICHAUTS Artichokes and lettuce deseribed described in the preceding recipe, replacing peas and by an an equal equal quantity of young peeled carrots. (Italian I'inferno (Hlllian Artichokes Artichokes IlI la la diable diable or or Careiofo Carciofo àI l'infemo of onnrn -- Lightly ARrrcHAUrs À A re LA DIABLE Ligiltly trim the tips of oookery). cookery). ARTICHAUTS Remove the choke, very tender, tender, medium-sized artichokes. Remove very mixture ofbrcadof breadblanch and drain. Fill the artichokes with a mixture chopped garlic, capers and parsley, and season with crumbs, chopped sal saltt and pepper. pan with packing them in closely. Put into into aa sauté saut6 pan with oil, them in Put oil, packing generously with olive oil and season again. in again. Cook in Sprinkle generously the'oven, uncovered, basting frequently. When cooked, the the oyen, uncovered, at the the tips. artichokes should be be crisp at tips. sprinkle with the the oil in which they they on aa dish dish and and sprinkle Arrange on were cooked. cooked. Trim Dricd Dried artichokes. coNsBnvE D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHlurs SÉCHÉS sfcufs -- Trim artichokes. CONSERVE in water water to to artichokes and and blanch them them for for 55 minutes in the the artichokes juice has which lem on juice lemon has been been added. added. put to dry sun, or in aa slow slow them, and and put dry on on trays in the sun, Drain them, (They can dried in the oyen. also be threaded oven. (They threaded on on aa string string and and dried the can also open open air.) air.) preserving artichokes, the blanching For For this this method of of preserving artichokes, the particles would would water must must not salted, otherwise otherwise saline saline partieles not be be salted, water humidity and and thereby artichokes, drawing drawing humidity thereby impregnate the the artichokes, preventing desiccation. desiccation. Fried artichokes hearts fried Fried artichokes -- See See below below Artichoke Artichoke hearts fried inin baller. batter. These can Artichoke frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIcNETS D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHAUTS -- Thcse be can be Artichoke (See HORSHORSas hors-d'œuvre or asas aa vegetable. vegetable. (See served served as hors-dauvre or D'(EUVRE, F"rillers.) D'ŒUVRE, Fritters.) LyoNNAIsE A LA ra LYONNAISEArtichokes Artichokes ài la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. ARTICHAUTS ARTIcHAUTs À

Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing replacing the the daxelles duxelles mixture mixture by by sausage sausage meat meat with with aa

quarter quarter of of its its weight weight of of chopped, chopped, lightly lightly fried fried onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley parsley added added to 10 it. il. Artichokes Articbokes Ià la la mdnagbre. ménagère. ARTIcHAUTs ARTICHAUTS A À LA LA rrafr.r,{cins MÉNAGÈRE -Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Artichokes Artichokes barigoule, barigoule, replacing replacing the the &txelles duxelles mixture mixture by by chopped chopped boiled boiled beef beef mixed mixed with with finely finely shredded shredded fresh fresh bacon bacon and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Artichokes ARTICHAUTS MIREPoIX MIREPOIX -- Put Put 12 12 small small Artichokes mirepoix. mirepoix. ARTIcHAUTS artichokes, artichokes, prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichokes Artichokes Clamart, Clamart. into into a saut6 sauté pan pan on a foundation foundation of of 22 dl. dl. $ H pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable mirepoix mirepoi.x (see (see MIREPOIX), MIREPOIX), mixed mixed with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) lean lean ham ham cut eut into into tiny tiny dice. dice. Simmer for 5 minutes minutes over a low low flame, flame, keeping keeping the the pan pan uncovered. uncovered. Moisten Moisten with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* 0 cup) white white wine. wine. Simmer for for 55 minutes, minutes, add I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons. scant seant it cup) cup) veal veal stock, cover caver with with a lid lid and simmer for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in a a vegetable vegetable dish. Pour Pour the the mirepoix mirepoix over over the the artichokes, artichokes, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. Pickled Pickled artichokes. artichokes. coNSERvE CONSERVE D'AnrIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS -- Trim Trim freshly gathered gathered artichokes. Put them, whole whole or or in in quarters, quarters, added. Blanch in water to which lemon lemon juice juice has been added. Blanch them them of salt. Allow in salted salled water, water, allowing l0 10 per per cent ofsalt. Allow l0 10 minutes minutes for whole artichokes artichokes and 5 minutes for for quarters. quarters. Drain Drain and and refresh refresh in cold water. Drain them again, again, put into into cans, and pour pour in the the following following pickling brine: (4 gallons, 5 gallons) For 20 litres (4 gallons) water, I1 kg. kg. (21b.) (21b.) wellwellrefined (3 tablespoons) lemon lemon juice. juice. refined salt and 2 tablespoons (3 time Cooking Cooki.ng time lime Cooking lime ( 230" F.) in a bain-marie l0'C. (230°F.) Weight of of cans wilh JI JO°c. Weighl cans with canning kettle pressure sleriliser steriliser or canning keltle

(l lb.) 500 g. (1

30 minutes 30

hour 1I hour

(2{ lb.) 1I kg. (2!

40 minutes

minutes minutes 60 minutes

1l|à hours hours

(ai lb.) 2 ke. kg. (4t

22 hours hours

o'ARTICIIAUTS grecque. CONSERVE coNsERvE D'ARTICHAUTS la grecque. Pickled artichokes ili la pickle for arti for which which only only small ar!iThis is is aa pickJe - This to be cut into have ta artichokes have chokes are are used. used. Large chokes Large artichokes be cul into ofthis hors-d'euvre. the aspect of which changes the quarters, wlüch this hors-d' œuvre. of the the same small anichokes artichokes of 100 sma]] trim 100 Method. Pare Pare and and lrim following into the following them ioto are trimmed, trimmed, plunge them size. As they are size. mixture : previously prepared mixture: (scant pint, (4t quarts, quarts) water; pint, quarts, 5| quarts) dl. (seant water; 55 dl. 55 litres litres (41 coriander; 1I teaspoon teaspoon 2f cups) oil; 11| olive oil; cups) olive 2~ t tablespoons coriander; garni large bouquet peppercorns; 11bouquet garni l* tablespoons salt; aa large tablespoons salt; peppercorns; leaf, fennel fennel and and aa slalk celery; of celer)'; stalk of composed of of thyme, bay bay leaf, composed juice of muslin bag. 10 lemons lemons strained through aa muslin and the juice of JO strained through and for 88 and continue boiling boiling for Bring the artichokes to to the the boil boil and the artichokes 10 minutes. minutes. to 10 to quarters), (20 artichoke quantity (20 artichoke hearts hearts or or quarters), smaller quanüty For aa smaller (HORS-D'GUVRE, Cold grecque (HORS-D'ŒUVRE, la grecque Artichokes àd la see Arlichokes see minutes. for 88 to to 10 l0 minutes. hors-d'euvre). Cook Cook for hors-d'œuvre). large earthenware with their liquor, to to aa large earthenware Transfer them, with their Iiquor, Transfer (2- or lJb.) into 11- or or t-litre or l-lb.) cool. Put Put into crock and and allow allow to to cool. crock |Jitre (2finger within the the width width of of aa finger Fill with with the the liquor liquor lo to within cans. FilJ cans. hermetically. from the the top. top. Seal Seal hermetieally. from (l-lb.) for the~-litre the flitre (l-lb.) Place in in aa boiler, and boil 20 minutes minutes for and boil20 Place (2-lb.) cans. cans. l-litre (2-lb.) cans and and 30 30 minutes minutes for for the the I-litre cans HORS-D'GUVRE. poivrade -- See See HORS-D'ŒUVRE. Ia poivrade Artichokes ài la Articbokes punfE D'ARTICHAUTS garnish. PURÉE D'ARTIcHAUTS -for gamish. Pur6e of of artichokes artichokes for Purée vegetable courlcourtin aa white white vegetable hearts in Half-cook artichoke artichoke hearts Half-cook fine (q.v.), and through aa fine Rub through in butter. butter. Rub bouillon (q.v.), and simmer simmer in bouillon

A LA LA GRECQUE cRECeue -À

st

49 49

ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE

i

Artichoke bearts hearts à lalacrème. crbme.FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs ÀALA LA Articboke c,ntrr,rs- - Proceed Proceed as Assoon asabove. above. As soonasasthe artichoke hearts theartichoke hearts CRÈME pour boiIing are cooked, cooked,pour boilingcream cream over them.Simmer overthem. Simmerdown downby by are half.Transfer Transfer the theartichoke artichoke hearts vegetable dish. heartstotoaavegetable dish.Add Add half. thesauce, sauce,strain pourover butter toto the strain it, it, and andpour overthe theartichokes. artichokes. butter prepared cream cream sauce saucecan canalso alsobe pouring over forpouring beused usedfor AA prepared over (seeSAUCE, thehearts hearts (see SAUCE, Cream Crearnsauce). sauce). the Artichoke bearts heartsfines fines berbes. herbes. FONDS o'AnrrcH^q,urs FINES FoNDSD'ARTICHAUTS FINES Articboke HERBEs -- Blanch Blanch lightly, lightly, slice, slice, and andfry fryinin butter butterininaashallow shallow HERBES pan. Transfer Transfer to vegetable dish, toaavegetable dish,and andsprinkle sprinkle with withchopped pan. chopped parsley. cherviland and parsley. chervil

young and the artichokes artichokes are are very veryyoung tender, slice slicethem them and tender, IfIf the rawand and fry fry inin butter beforesprinkling butterbefore sprinkling with with the thechervil cherviland and raw parsley. parsley. Artichoke bearts hearb fried frid ininbatter. batter. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTSEN Articboke E[.r FRrror -- Blanch Blanch the the artichoke artichoke hearts, FRITOT hearts, slice slicethem, them, and and juice, salt, marinate inin oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepperand marinate salt,pepper and fines herbes finesherbes (q.v.).When required, dip dip them (g.v.). When required, them in in batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, season season with with fine fine salt, salt, arrange Drain, arrange them in aaheap them in heap on onaa folded napkin, garnish with napkin, and parsley. and garnish with fried folded frid parsley. Gamishd artichoke artichoke bearts. hearts. FONDS Garnisbed FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTIcHAUTs GARNIScARNrs Artichoke hearts principally asaa garnish hearts used garnish for used principallyas Artichoke for hot hot and and dishes can can be cold dishes be filled filled with with various cold various mixtures. mixtures. Here Here are are the the main ingredients ingredients which which can main for hot can he be added added to to them: them: for hot dishes, dishes, the artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, cooked the cooked in in white white vegetable vegetable courtcourt(q.v.) and bouillon (q.v.) and simmered bouillon simmered in in butter, are filled butter, are filled atat the last the last moment with with vegetables vegetables or moment or other other ingredients, ingredients, but are not but are not put in in the put the oyen oven to to brown brown the the tops recommended for as recommended tops as for stuffed artichoke artichoke hearts. stuffed hearts. Artichoke hearts Artichoke hearts intended garnish for intended as as aa garnish for cold cold dishes dishes are are cooked cooked in in this this court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drained, drained, dried, dried, and and filled filled with with various vegetables vegetables which various which have have been set in in ajelly. a jelly. Or been set Or they they can can be seasoned seasoned with he with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, mayonnaise mayonnaise or or other other salpicons salpicons (q.v.). (q.v.). jelly or Artichoke hearts hearts can can also also be be covered covered with with aspic or aspic jelly (see SAUCE). Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Filled garnish for Filled articboke artichoke bearts hearts as as garnish for cold cold disbes dishes -- Fill Fill the the hearts hearts with with various various butters pounded with butters which which have have been been pounded with any any of of the following: caviare, the following: caviare, shrimps, crayfish and shrimps, crayfish and other other shellfish, shellfish, hard-boiled eggs, pur6es, various eggs, fish fish and and shellfish various shellfish purées, salpicons, etc. etc. Filled Filld articboke garnish for artichoke bearts hearts as as garnisb for bot hot dishes dir*es -- AnverAnversoise: eu il : purée soise: hop pur€e of hop shoots shoots in in cream; cream; argent argenteuil: of white white asparagus; pur6e of asparagus; bretonne: bretonne: purée of kidney kidney beans; beans; Compoint: Compoint: pur6e of purée green asparagus; of green pur6e; écossaise: asparagus; Conti: Conti; lentil lentil purée; Ccossaise: (q.v.) of carrots, celery, brunoise (q.v.) celery, French French beans beans and and onions; onions; macédoine macidoine of vegetables vegetables in in butter; princess: asparagus asparagus tips tips and and diced diced truffies; truffies; Saint-Germain: Saint-Germain: purée purfie of garden of fresh fresh garden peas; peas; thick thick sauces sauces such such as as béarnaise, biarnaise, Choron, Choron, Henri Henri IV, IV, paloise; Vichy: carrots àd la Vichy. (For (For sauces sauces see see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) Articboke bearts Artichoke herrts ài la la hollandaise. hltadaise. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTS À COURTA LA rA HOLLANDAISEnorr,c,NDArsE- Cook in (srCOURTin Court-bouillon IV (see BOUILLON), BOUILLOI$, drain, drain, put in aa vegetable dish and and coyer cover with Hollandaise sauce (see (se,e SAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke Artichoke hearts Mornay. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs MORNAYMoRNAy Sim mer in Simmer in butter in aa covered pan. Put covered pan. in aa fireproof Put in fireproof dish dish which has has been (see SAUCE). been coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Coyer the artichoke hearts Cover the hearts with with the the same same sauce, sauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese with grated Parmesan cheese and melted butter, and and brown brown the top. Pickled artichoke articboke hearts. bearts.CONSERVE Pickled coNsERvE DE DE FONDS FoNDs D'ARTID'ARTICHAUTS - Choose Choose small, small, tender artichokes. Trim cHAUTSTrim them them with with aa and put them as special peeler or by hand and as they are are trimmed trimmed into water water with with lemon lemon juice juice added. Blanch them into added. Blanch them for for 55 (8 per per cent cent solution). minutes in salted water (8 solution). Drain, Drain, and and refresh in cold water. refresh Drain again, again, put put into cans, cans, and and pour pour over over the the same same picklpicklDrain as for Pickled Pickled artichokes artichokes (see (see above). above). brine as ing brine

Preparing artichoke artichoke hearts (Scarnati) hearts (Scarnali) Preparing

sieve. Heat Heat the puree and the purée and add add butter butter or or cream, cream, as as directed directed sieve.

in the the recipe. recipe. If If required, required, thicken thicken its its consistency consistency by by adding adding in potato purée. an equal equal amount amount of pur6e. of potato an punfn D'ARTIPuree of of articbokes artichokes soubisée soubis6e for garnlshes. PURÉE for garnisbes. D'ARTrPurée cHAurs SOUBISÉE sorJBrsfE -- Proceed Proceed as as described preceding described in in the the preceding CHAUTS recipe. Add Add to to the pur6e one the artichoke artichoke purée one third third of of its its volume volume of of recipe. (see PURÉE). Onion soubise soubise (see PUREE). Onion Artichoke salad salad -- See See SALAD, SALAD, Mixed Mixed salads. salads. Artichoke Artichoke soufflé soufr6 -- See See SOUFFLÉS, SOUFFLES, Soufflé Soffii of of various various Articboke vegetables. vegetables. Artichoke stalks. stalks. MOELLE MoELLE D'ARTICHAUT D'ARTTcHAUT -- Peel Peel the the stalks stalks of of Articboke large artichokes, artichokes, taking taking care care to to remove remove ail all the the woody woody large casing. Cut them into sticks sticks 55 cm. (2 inches) cm. (2 inches) long. long. Blanch Blanch in in casing. salt water water flavoured with lemon. lemon. salt artichoke stalks prepared stalks can can be prepared When they are blanched, artichoke in various ways; simmered simmered in in butter butter or or cream cream in in aa covered covered in pan; infritots (q.v.); infritols (q. (q.v.); curried; with gravy. with gravy. pan; v.); àd la grecque (q.v.); ARTICHOKE FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTSD'ARrrcHAUrs - Artichoke ARTICHOKE HEARTS. FONDS prepared as hearts as described described below below can can be be served served as as aa hearts prepared vegetable as aa garnish. When sliced sliced and and blended with aa blended with vegetable or as sauce, brown, they should be be served served in aa vegetable sauce, white or brown, dish, in (q.v.), timbale, in aa croustade (q.v.), dish, or or in timbale, or or gratin dish, dish, in aa gratin vol-au-vent preparation of of the hearts heart s see Artichoke vol-au-vent cases. For preparation see Artichoke hear ts in cour t-bouillon below. below. hearts court-bouillon Artichoke hearb ià l'allemande. I'allemande. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'.enrrcsaurs ÀA Articboke hearts L'ALLEMANDE the artichokes lightly and and stew L'ALLEMANDE - Blanch Blanch the stew in butter. vegetable dish dish and and coyer butter. Transfer Transfer into into aa vegetable cover with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). If If the artichoke artichoke hearts are too big, cut them into slices. Ardcloke roNps D'ARTICHAUTS o',mrrcpllr.rs ÀA LA Artichoke hearb bearts ià la bechamel. béchamel. FONDS ul sfcHAl'Gr (see using Bichamel BÉCHAMEL - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, using Béchamel sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke ror.rDs D'ARTICHAUTS Articboke hearts cooked cooked in butter - FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs fruvfs.q,u ÉTUVÉS AU seuRREBEURRE- Pare and and trim trim the artichokes artichokes as described described in Rub them with lemon, and blanch for 10 in the next next recipe. recipe. Rub l0 minutes minutes in boiling salt salt water water to which which a few drops of lemon juice juice have have been been added. added. Drain, put the artichokes artichokes in a well-buttered well-buttered saut6 sauté pan, season, cook with the lid on season, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, butter, and cook the the pan pan for 18 to to 25 25 minutes, minutes, according according to their size. Use as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Artichoke Articboke hearts bearts in court-bouillon. court-bouillon. roNos FONDS D'ARTTcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS AU AU BLANc BLANC -- Strip off off the the outside leaves Ieaves on medium-sized artichokes. artichokes. Trim Trim them them as as evenly evenly as as possible, possible, leaving leaving only only the fleshy fleshy middle middle part. part. Remove Remove the the choke, trim the hearts and rub Put into into cold water water as each one is is rub them them with with lemon. lemon. Put trimmed. trimmed. Cook Cook the the hearts hearts in in boiling boiling white white vegetable vegetable court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.).They (q.v.). They can can be he blanched blanched or or cooked cooked until until soft, according according to Drain well. weil. to the the final final dish dish chosen. chosen. Drain 50 50

ARTOIS ARTOIS AND AND BOULONNAIS BOULONNAIS

cans

Weight Weight of of cans

described stock). stock). Proceed Proceed as as "but described in in the the recipe recipe for for artichoke artichoke quarters in butter, buttcr,but finish finish off off with with lemon lemon juice juice and and

with (230"F.)

Cooking Cooking time time in in aa bain-marie bain-marie or or pressure canning pressure steriliser steriliser ketlle canning kettle

Cooking time

110'C.

500 e. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) 500

20 20 minutes minutes

kg. (2t (2i lb.) lb.) I1ke.

30 30

chop@fines herbes. herbes.

quarters fried ininbatter. Artichoke Ar1IlCI110}{e(11.I1IlrtE~rslmetl batter. QUARTIERS QUARTIERSD'ARTIcHA{rrs D'ARTICHA1.JTS artichoke quarters. Trim, blanch blanch and and marinate marinatc'artichoke quarters. - Trinn, Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke heartsfried in in batter. batter. Artichoke Artichoke quarters qllllrters ià la la grecque. grecque. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS AÀ Le LA cneceue GRECQUE - Trim Trim artichoke artichoke quarters, quarters, and and proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Pickled Pickled artichokes artichokes dà la la grecque. grecque. These These are are served served as as cold cold hors-deuvre. hors-d'œuvre. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters à I'italienne. l'italienne. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'AnrIcttAUTs D'ARTlCHA1.JTS A À t'tr^lttBlttu L'ITALIENNE - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters aux aux fines fines herbes. herbe.L Finish Finish off off with with ltalian /talian sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce (w Artichoke Artichoke quarters au jus. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTtCHAUTS AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed as as described in in the the recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters auxfines aux fines herbes, herbes, but but omit omit the the herbs. Artichoke Articboke quarters quarters Ià la la lyonnaise. QUARTIERS QU AR TIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TTCH AUTS A À r,l LA lvoNrqllseL YONNAISE- Proceed as as describedfor described for Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarlers aux aux fines fines herbes. herbes. Finish Finish off off with wÎth Lyonnaise LYDnnaise sauce sauce (see (see

40 40 minutes minutes

minutes minutes

EN EN FRrror FRITOT -

60 60 minutes minutes

Artichoke Articboke hearts bearts stuffed stuffed ià la la o6venole. cévenole. FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D' ARTICHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A À Lrq, LA cfvsNore CÉVENOLE - Blanch Blanch the the artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, drain, drain,

-

-

and simmer sim mer in in butter. butter. Garnish Gamish with with a a Chestnut Chestnut purie purée and

ftavouroo rith with Onion On ion soubise soubise (see (sec PUREE). PURÉE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with flavoured grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted meltcd butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top. hearts sfuffed stufl'ed à la la chalonnaise. chaJonuaise. roNps FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke hearts CHAUT'S FARcrs FARCIS AÂ. r,l LA cnlr,oNNAIsE CHALONNAlSE -- As As above, above. with with Salpicon Salpicon cHAUTs la chalornaise chalonnaise (see (sec SALPICON). SALPICON). dci h Artichoke Articboke heorts bearts strffed stuffed ià la la duxelles. duxeUes. FoNDs FONDS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTICHAUTS fARCIS A À r-l LA puxsrrns DUXELLES -- As As above, with wÎth very very thick thîck duxelles duxelles FARcrs (q.v.). (q.v.). Artichoke hearts strffed stutied à la la florentine. florentine. FoNDs FONDS D'ARrID'ARTIArtichoke CHAUTS FARcrs FARCIS A À LA rronrNTINE FLORENTINE - Simmer the the artichoke artichoke cHALns hearts in in butter, butter, and and fill fi.!1 themwith them with spinach spÎnach that that has has also also been been hearts Slmmered in butter. buttcr. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over simmered artichokes, sprinkle spr:inkle with grated cheese, cheese, and brown brown the the artichokes, top. IvelnD.aÏS
-

I

n

I

i

-

-

sAUCE). SAUCE). Artichoke la moelle. moelle. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS D'ARTIcHAUTS D'ARTTCHAlITS Artichoke quarters quarters ià la A À rl LA noer,rr MOELLE -- Cook the the artichoke artîchoke quarters quarters as as described described for for thoseaujus. tbose aujus. Finish Finish offwith offwith Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), and and garnish gamish with with thin Ihin slices slices of of bone-marrow bone-marrow which which have have been been poached poached and drained. drained. Artichoke Artichoke quarters quarters ià la la portugaise. QUARTIERS QUARTIERS poRTUGAIsE - Simmer the D'AnrrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS A À LA LA PORTUGAISE the quarters quarters in in 44 (scant oil, together tablespoons (* (1 cup) cup) oil, together with with 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant and pounded Addzpeeled cup) chopped chopped onions. onions. Add 2 peeled and pounded tomatoes, tomatoes, *l cup) Cook in chopped parsley. and a a little lillie grated grated garlic garlic and and chopped parsley. Cook in an an gently. Serve vegetable dish dish Serve in uncovered pan, simmering gently. in aa vegetable chopped parsley. and sprinkle with witb choppcd parsley.

ll

fried in butter. niçoise. FoNDS FONDS o'ARTIcHAUTS D'AR TlCHAUTS Articboke hearts be.arts stuffed ilt la niEoise. Artichoke FARCIS A À ra LA Ntqotsn - Blanch the artichoke hearts, hearts, fry them FARcIs Tomatofon&te fil! with Tomato fondue (see TOMATO). Sprinkle in oil, and fill and brown the top. with breadcrumbs and melted butter, butter, and FoNDs D'ARTIcHAUTS Pi6montaise. FONDS hearts stufTed stuffed Piémontaise. Artichoke Artichoke be.arfs D' ARTICHAUTS p$ilroNratss -- Simmer in butter in a covered covered pan. PIÉMONTAISE (see RICE). RICE), sprinkle Pidmontaise (see la Piémontaise Fill with with Risotto Risotto àd la Fill the top. and brown the with grated Parmesan cheese, and o'ARTIcHAUTS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS hearb stu1Jed stuffed Soubise. FONDS Artichoke bearts isee soLJBrsE -- As As above, above. with aa thick soubise (see FARcIs SOUBISE thick Onwn Onion soubise PUREE).

lnrrcrulur D'HryER WINTER. ART1CHAlIT ARTICHOKT'., WlNTER. ARTlCHOKE. D'HIVER (q.v.). artichoke (q.v.). name for for Jerusalem artiehoke name

-

-

Another Another

TREE. BREADFRUIT TREE. See BREADFRUIT mrocmps -- See ARTOCARPUS. ARTOCARPE principal food refood rcThe principal AI\D BOULONNAIS BOLJLONNAIS -- The ARTOIS AND ARTOIS sea. province of from the the sea. France come come from of France ancient province sources ofthis of this ancient sources port in in France, France, fishing port most important important fishing Boulogne is is the the most Boulogne Whole eonvoys convoys mackerel. Whole and mackerel. of herring herring and supply of with the best best supply with (gurnard) and gurnet (gurnard) and herring, gurnet mackerel, herring, lorries carrying carrying mackerel, of lorries of fish fish with supplies supplies of day with every day leave this this seaport seaport every other fish fish leave other parts of France. of France. all parts for a11 and is damp damp and rather variable, variable, is region, rather this region, climate of of this The climate The found growing, so much fruit fruit isis found not much fruit growîng, so nol for fruit not suitable suitable for not is the the with bœr, beer, is together with apples. Cider, Cider, together except eider cider apples. there, excepl there, region. of the the region. main beverage of good vegetables. produce very vegetables. gardens produœ very good Artois market market gardens Artois particularly fine. Good fine. Good are particularly around Saint-Omar Those from from around Saint-Omar are Those poultry produced in in Artois; Artois; but quality beef and but poultry mutton are are produced and mutton quality quality. of average quality. and game are only of and Magnificent all kinds. kinds. -'Y.l.G'5""'"'''''' fish of of ail Rivers and ponds abound in fish rivers, small coastal rivers, of the the small in the the estuar:ies estuaries of is found io salmon is salmon great delicacy. delicacy. flesh of of great with ftesh trout with and, in in the the Canche, Canche, trout and, very numerous. not very numerous. These are are not specialities -- These Culinary special.ities and shcllfish. shellfish. fish aod on seafood seafood -- fish are based based on of them them are Almost all of Almost arc andouilles andouilles (q.v.) regionare: principal specialities of of the the region The principal The saucisses de such as as saucisses charcuterie sucb d'Arras and and various charcuterie d'Arras (blood) puddings; puddWs; (country sa black (blood) sausages); campagne (country usages) ; black

D'ARrIcHAUrs -ARTICHOKE ARTICHOKE QUARTERS. QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS QUARTERS. QUARTIERS into and cul cut them iuto Pare Pare and and Irim trim medium-sized artichokes and and blanch with lemon, and quarters. Trim Trim them carefully, rub with juice lemon juice salt and and lemon water ta to which salt in boiling water for 66 minutes in drain and drain running tap and cold running added. Cool have been been added. Cool under aa cold quite dry. until dry. until quite section, in this this section, specific recipes given in addition to to the the specifie ln In addition of those and sorne some of given for for small small artichokes, and most most of of tbose those given artichoke applied to to artichoke be applied given for can be hearts, ean artichoke hearts, given for artichoke quarters. quarters. AU D'ARTIcHAUTS AU quarters in in but1er. butter. QUARTIERS Articboke Artictoke quarters QUARTIERS D'ARTICHAUTS put them in aa them in quarters of and put of 66 artichokes artichokes and BEURRE BEURR-E -- Blanch quarters tablewith 33 tablepan. Season, moisten with Season, and and moisten heavy pan. well-buttered well-buttered heavy (scant * cup) of with aa tablespoon tablespoon of water. Sprinkle Sprinkle with spoons cup) water. spoons (seant lid and and simmcr with aa lid simmer cover with to the the boil, boil, coyer melted melted butter, butter, bring to pouring dish, pouring in aa vegetable dish, gently for Serve in for 30 30 1035 to 35 minutes. Serve pan over over the from the the artichokes. the pan the juices from quarters aux herbes alx fines fines herbes -. QUARTIERS Artichoke Artichoke quartcrs QUARTTERS for recipe for as in in the the reeipe Prepare as HERBEsAux FINES FINEs HERllES D'ARTICHAlITS - Prepare D'ARTIcHArns AUX dish. Dilute Dilute vegetable dish. Put in in aa vegetable butter. Put Arlichoke in buller. Artichoke quarters in white scant t;| cup) while pan juices wilh dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant with 1I dl. the the pan cup) tablespoons (scant * cup) down. Add 33 tablespoons(scant wine, and boil boil down. moments. Strain trus this few moments. for aa fcw and boil veal stock boil for th.!cl(ien~~ stock and thickened veal drops few drops melted butter, butter, aa few sauce, and add add to to itit 1I tablespoon tablespoon melted sauce, and (q.v')' juice and herbs (q.v.). choppedlnes herbs lemon juice and 1I tablespoon tablespoon choppedfines of of lemon quarters. artichoke quarters. over the the artichoke Pour Pour the the sauce sauoe over (without prepared au also he Nore. This This recipe aumaigre recipe can can also be prepared NOle. maigre (without

Valenciennes tongue. popular in Artois in Artois very popular latter very the latter soup, the Beer soup soup and and leek soup, Beer and Flemish origin origin and dish of of Flemish hotch-potch, aa dish in Flanders; Flanders; hotcn-polCh, and in and dishes excellent dishes pdti of Montreuil-sur-Mer - excellent of Montreuil-sur-Mer woodcock pâté woodcock prunes rabbit wilh with prunes wild rabbil made nowadays; nowadays; wild which are are not not often often made which goose àd laftamande; laflamande; Valenciennes; goose orraisins, raisins, aa speciality of Valenciennes; speciality of or

-

5l 51

ARUM MACULATUM MACULATUM ARUM

ffi

kl Port of of Boulogne. Boulogne. On On the the lefl: left: trawler trawlerharbour. harbour.On On lhe right: harbour theright: harbourfor forsmaller smaller fishing fishingvessels vessels(Percevaf) (percevaf Pon

jellied

eel; the the caudière caudiire de de Berck, Berck, aa kind kind of matelote similar of matelote similar jellied eel; to the the chaudrée chaudrie of of A Aunis. unis. to There is is naturally naturally aa whole whole range range of of fish fish dishes, dishes, from from There mackerel àd la la boulonnaise boulonnaise to to more more complicated complicated disbes dishes made made mackerel of various various kinds kinds of of sea sea fish: fish: burbot, burbot, turbot, turbot, striped striped mullet, mullet, of (green pollack), smelt, coal-fish coal-fish (green pollack), bass, bass, sole, sole, red mullet. skate. red mullet, skate. smelt, But Boulogne Boulogne is, is, above above a1l, all, the the town town of of herring herring and and But mackerel - this this can can be be traced traced back back to to the the ninth ninth century. century. The The mackerelherring industry industry -- herring herring dried, dried, smoked, pickled or smoked, pickled or sold sold herring ready for for serving serving -- has has assumed assumed enormous proportions. enormous proportions. ready Herring are prepared in are prepared in aa variety variety of of ways. ways. There There are are Herring bloaters, slightly slightly salted salted herring herring which which have have been been smoked; smoked; bloaters, salted herring proper; proper; smoked smoked herring herring called gmdnrmes; called gendarmes; sai ted herring kippers, cured cured and and split; split; herring herring pickled pickled in in white white wine; cured cured kippers, herring fillets in oil; oil; canned canned herring herring and preparations and other other preparations herring fi/lets in of this this fish fish which which are are eaten eaten as as hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre. . of

•

Mussels

'

Cassel

Cauilllow~s

••

Chlc:'en ala flamande • Butter. Poultry Mt des Cats ehe~se • • ,Plum tan 'Ir Tourcoin~ Galettes

Haze\rouck·

Salted and smoked smoked herrings herrings Henings augratin gl'arln Herrings au Steaks Steaks /arcr's farâ~ Cider Sheep Cider Sheep

Mt. des Cal~ ch~ese

leTouquet-

Juniper..,...·· • Junlpcr Juniper

'.

eets

.

Andou;elles

Caudidre,

a Lenr Lens

St. Pol

berckoises

ULLE.

..-. -.! r?noo"'Béthune '''--'''' 4ndoul/eftes t.:, 1.::

ekplirés

Frogs Frogs CrApes Crt!pes

'" .Roub

• .. LIr.r.F. AndoUJJf~rles. Taliburs O Bab/utes. Cracknel ..",} ::. Smoked tongues Tablettes aL au Sl/'op Tablettes siroo Cares, Sottisesand I Carrés. Sottises and Ddlices Délices de de Lille L"le a Fif ed waflles. Filled waHles. Little Little euinouins QUlnQulnS f

Wood

BELGIU

Green 80Up ~ Beer 1I0Up

Endiv,e',

Jeilied€-ilgMontnmll

50 km.

..'

\~

St. Omer_ ---.~

~~~[:leTouquet. ~ Paris-Plage

ASAFOETIDA -- Resinous Resinous gwn gum of ASAFOETIDA of aa species species of of oriental oriental In spite spite of of its its offensive offensive smell, palm. In smell, some people in some people in the the East East

CramiQues·~ChJQueS J Ban K ouckeborerom. Langues de char

\\ \

ARUM MACULA MACULATLTM This plant plant isis also ARUM TUM -- This also known known under under the names names of of lords lords and and ladies, ladies, cuckoo-pint, the cuckoo-pint, calfs calf s foot and footand wake-robin.In French itit isis known known as wake-robin. In French (pepperas chou-poivre chou-poivre-(peppercabbage) because because of of the the acridity acridity of cabbage) leaves and of its its leaves and roots. roots. In In the U.S.A. U.S.A. itit isis sometimes sometimes called ginger for the called wild wild ginger for the the same same reason. reason. The roots roots are are much much valued valued by The by the the Arabs, Arabs, who who cook cook them them on hot hot cinders. cinders. on

. WII~ /J/a{Jresse woodcotk au fumer Bloaters. Wam

DuDkirk

Biscuits

Canned mackerel mackerelalso alsocome come from fromBoulogne, Canned Boulogne,and andare areoften often eaten as ashors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. eaten Among the pastries and the pastries and confectionery confectionery products products of Among of the the region are are the the Arras Arras hearts hearts and and caramels, caramelr, the region theLille Lille délices, ddtices, the Cambrai Cambrai bêtises, b1tises, and and the Berck chiques. the Berck the chiques.

•

\r

Hotch-potch

Do~~. ".

tt Rabbit with with prunes Rabbit orunes or or raisins Goyère Smoked tongues, tongues. Goyere Smoked G~leau carpeaux carpeaux G6teau

.Valencie~

Denain Denaln Andouillettes Coeursdbrras Caramels

BEER

..

.... \

.. ". iFt.."'tt ".," Maubeuge

~,,,,,,.

'!i;l(0

s'i>~

... .-.

alelo,le de Sambre

Cheese I(om Marville Marville CheeseJrom lamb Calves' Calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads. Andouilles If Trout. cravfisherayiish, BCtlses, Biscuits Trout, ! Avesnes.'rom Helpe. Che~se rom pe. Hel C h-e.ese Avefrreraf Irom Marv,lIeana from Maruille anb Maroilles ,9

•

+

RQo"

PICARD PICARD Y Y Gastronomic Gaslronomie map map of ofArtois Artois and and Boulonnais Boulonnais

52 52

...." . ,~ \s....::roir"' '.'!......,....-l* .. \O\~

ASPARAGUS ing ing purposes purposes these these fall fall into into several several main main types; types: French French asparagus, wbich the the best best known known and and most most delicious delicious is is asparagus, of which

and Far Far East East use use itit as as aa condiment. condiment. The The Romans Romans added added itit and many dishes dishes under under the the name name of of sylphium sylphium or or silphion. silphion. to many to

Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagus; asparagus ; Italian !talian asparagus asparagus or or purple purple Genoa Genoa asparagus asparagus;; white white Belgian Belgian asparagus asparagus;; white white German German asparagus' asparagus. There is also also green green asparagus, which is is sub-divided sub-divided into into two two types: asparagus types: small, used used for for garnishes garnishes and and known known as as asparagus tips, and large, which which is prepared prepared llke like Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagusasparagus. Early asparagus asparagus can be found in in France from from February February onwards, and is usually usually sold at high prices. priees. Method Method of of preparation. preparation. This is simple. Scrape, Scrape, or or better better still, peel peel the the asparagus, asparagus, wash wash and and tie tie into into medium-sized medium-sized salted water; water; of boiling bundles, and cook in aa fairly full pan pan of boiling salted bundles, and quart) generous quart) allow allow l| 1t teaspoons teaspoons salt per per litre litre (lf (1 t pints, pints, generous is cooked, drain the water. When When it it is the asparagus thoroughly thoroughly or on aa special and arrange arrange on a dish covered covered with a napkin, napkin, or which is equipped with aa flat asparagus fiat strainer. asparagus dish which depend20 minu minutes, The cooking cooking period varies varies ffrom rom 18 to 20 tes, dependnot be It should not ofthe ing on the size and nature of the asparagus. It be and tasteless. tasteless. it watery and overcooked, as as this renders it little becomes season asparagus bec Note. At the end of the season ornes aa !ittle short time water for for aa short fresh water into fresh and should be bitter, and be put into it has been cooked. Drain thoroughly. after il sauces. with various various sauces. served with Hot or cold asparagusis asparagus is served or cold Hot running is to be served served cold, it should be left under aa running When it is When tap to cool.

ASBESTOS. AMIANTE AMIANTE -- Fibrous Fibrous mineral mineraI substance substance which which ASBESTOS. is found found in in eruptive eruptive rocks. rocks. Asbestos Asbestos fibres fibres are are sufficiently sufficiently is to be be plaited plaited and and woven. woven. The The principal principal characteristic characteristic flexible to flexible ofasbestos its incombustibility; incombustibility; aa piece piece of ofasbestic asbestic material material of asbestos isis its put put into into ablazingfire a blazing fire will will not not burn. burn. The properties properties of asbestos asbestos are are exploited exploited nowadays nowadays for for The kitchen stoves. stoves . Asbestos, Asbestos, being being a a bad bad the interiors interiors of kitchen the conductor, does not not absorb absorb heat. beat. Unlike metal, it it reflects reflects conductor, by radiation, radiation, and and the the maximum maximum of of heat heat is is obtained obtained with the by of fuel, fuel, which results results in a considerable saving of minimum of minimum expense. expense. ASCALAPHUS - He was was Pluto's Pluto's cook cook and the the guardian guardian of ASCALAPHUSaccording to to legend. legend. This This position position of of confidence Proserpine, according brought him him misfortune, for for he he incurred incurred the the enmity enmity of brought Ceres. Jupiter Jupiter had had agreed to return return Proserpine to Ceres, her Ceres. condition that that the the girl had eaten nothing during du ring mother, on condition mother, the infernal infernal regions. regions. Ascalaphus revealed revealed her sojourn in the her while that Proserpine had eaten six grains of pomegranate while she was there, and Ceres turned him into an owl because of she this indiscreet revelation. revelation. Minerva, to to console him him in in his this misfortune, took him bim under her protection. protection. misfortune, FRÊNE -- The young shoots shoots of of this tree can be eaten in a ASH. rn6Ns salado The seeds seeds are sometimes sometimes preserved. preserved. salad. FRÉNETTE -- An An economical drink which is drink which ASHDRINK. rn6Nerrp be health-giving. health-giving. Its basis is ash leaves, and the recipe said to be as follows: is as g. (lf oz.) Boil 75g. (3 oz., and 55 55 g.(li ash leaves and 75 g. (3 oz., 3 cups) ash

(5| pints, pints, 6!pints) water. roasted water. In in 33 litres litres (Si 6| pints) roasted chicory chicory in (5+ lb.) another 40 g. lb.) sugar and 40 2i kg. sugar and vessel dissolve kg. (51 another vessel dissolve 2-!(3j pints, 4 (I-!(l\ oz.) 4| pints) water. oz) citric acid in 2 litres (3-!(l oz.) g. (1 then add 25 g. Mix the two liquids, leave to cool; oz.) add25 cool;then yeast dissolved Add the whole into aa barrel. Add dissolved in water. Pour the enough water to make 50 (l I gallons, 14 l4 gallons) and and 50 litres (II leave to fennent 12 days. ferment for for 12 Bottle the liquid, corking the in and store store in the bottles tightly, and aa cool cool place. The drink is of certain amount amount of lemonade with aa certain of lemonade is a kind of alcoholic content. content. ASHES. combustion. Various Residue after after combustion. cENDRES -- Residue ASHES. CENDRES foods fire, notably notably ashes of wood fire, in the the ashes of aa wood cooked in are cooked foods are chestnuts, potatoes and and truffies. truffies. chestnuts, potatoes

asparagus Lauris asparagus,' asparagus/Argenteuil Lauris Argenteuil asparagus

(l+ lb.) g. (Ii lb.) asparagus asparagus about 600 600 g. allow about speaking, allow Generally speaking, Generally (see SA person, served SAUCE). per person, with sauce sauce (see served with per UCE). This should should D'ASPERGEs -- This coNSERVE D'ASPERGES asparagus. CONSERVE Canned Canned asparagus. gathered asparagus. asparagus. freshly gathered with freshly not be attempted except except with be attempted not wash the the but do do not not wash carefully, but and dry dry carefully, the skin skin and Scrape off off the Scrape the as to to have have themall them all the so as ends evenly evenly so asparagus. Cut Cut off offthe the ends asparagus. stalks of of choosing stalks small bundles, bundles, choosing tie into into small same length, length, and and tie same cooking. even cooking. to ensure ensure even same thickness to the me thickness the sa prefor precan be be obtained obtained for asparagus can for asparagus Special Special boilers boilers for the for controlling controlling the with devices devices for are equipped equipped with serving; serving; these these are provided. Fill Fill the boiler, the boiler, basket provided. the boiling boiling basket movement of of the movement given, with water to to which which with water instructions given, according according to to the the instructions boil. Put Put the the per cent to the the boil. added, and and bring bring to salt has has been been added, 88 per cent salt and them up up and standing them into the the basket, basket, standing asparagus bundles bundles into asparagus into the the basket into packing them Lower the the basket too closely. closely. Lower not not packing them too up toto are immersed immersed up bundles are the asparagus asparagus bundles boiler boiler so so that that the minutes. for 33minutes. andboil boil for one-third their length length and one-thirdof of their into the the lower into down lower and drop drop itit down Disengage basket and Disengage the the basket are immersed, immersed, tips are of the theasparagus asparagus tips boiler, sothat two-thirdsof boiler, so that two-thirds minutes. and and boil boil for for another another 33minutes. plunge itit into cold into aa tub tub of ofcold Remove and plunge Remove the the basket basket and jetsof of water water cannot cannot thejets that the care that running running water, water, taking taking care

ASIALIA. in It occurs occurs in of saliva. saliva. It A deficiency deficiency of AsIALIE -- A ASIALIA. ASIALIE certain in certain certain nervous nervous conditions. conditions. certain diseases diseases and and in - Forced ASITIA. Loss of desire for for food. food. ASITIEabstinence. Loss of desire ASITIA. ASITIE Forced abstinence.

ASPARAGUS. genus of Liliaceae, containing containing A genus of Liliaceae, ASPARAGUS. ASPERGE mpnncE -- A more and warm warm found in in temperate temperate and more than than aa hundred hundred species, species, found regions America. of Europe Europe and and America. regions of Asparagus places, grows wild wild in in meadows meadows and and bushy bushy places, Asparagus grows especially great part part of France, as as weil well of France, in sandy sandy soil, soil, over over aa great especially in as Mediterranean the Atlantic Atlantic and and the the Mediterranean as on on sandy sandy coasts coasts on on the sides. sides. In reign vogue during during the the reign In France, France, asparagus asparagus came came into into vogue of grow who was was the the first first to to grow Louis XIV, to Quintinie, of Louis XIV, thanks thanks to Quintinie, who asparagus He was was able supply the the royal royal for Le Roi Soleil. Soleil. He to supply able to asparagus for Le Roi kitchen year round. with asparagus all the the year round. kitchen with asparagus all Asparagus (common asparagus), has been been asparagus), has Asparagus officinalis fficinalis (common widely garden time immemorial immemorial as as aa garden since time widely cultivated cultivated since vegetable. young sprouts, either sprouts, or or shoots, shoots, are are eaten eaten either vegetable. Its Its young whole just the In Spain, i.e., the terminal buds. buds. In Spain, whole or or just the tips, tips, i.e., the terminal young young shoots have long, long, sharp sharp species, which which have shoots of of aa certain certain species, thorns also eaten. thorns on on the the stems, stems, are are also eaten. AA great great number for cookcookasparagus varieties varietiesexist, exist, but but for number of of asparagus 53 53

ASPARAGUS ASPARAGUS damage the theasparagus asparagus tips. tips.Leave Leave ininthis thiswater waterfor forabout about an an damage hour.Drain Drain with greatcare. with great care. hour. Putthe theasparagus asparagusinto jars, placing intocans preserving jars, cansor or preserving placing Put some with heads up and others with heads down. Cover with sorne with heads up and others with heads down. Coyer with water which which has has been been salted salted in in the proportion of the proportion of 300 300g.g. water (11 oz. l| cups) refined salt to l0 litreJ (9 quarts, 1l quarti) (II oz. li cups) refined salt to 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. water. Cooking time time inin Cooking Cooking time time inin Weight of cans a 115"C: (718"F.) Cooking Weight of cans a 115°C. (238°F.) bain-marie aabain-marie steriliser steriliser 500 g.g. (1(l lb.) lb.) l0 minutes minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 10 20 (2* lb.) I1 kg. ke. (2i l5 minutes minutes 30 minutes minutes lb.) 15 30 (a+ lb.) 2 kg. 20 minutes 40 minutes 2 kg. (41 lb.) 20 minutes 40 minutes

Cnnned green green asparagus porNTss asparagus tips. tips. CONSERVE @NsERvE DE DE POINTES Canned Divide the the asparagus asparagus stalks stalks into into three three - Divide parts: the base, the middle and the tips. parts: the base, the middle and the tips. put the First put (the toughest the bases bases (the toughest parts) parts) into into aa saucepan saucepan of of First salted boiling boiling water water and and boil boil them them for for 22 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the salted middle sections sections and and boil boil for for another another 22 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the tips tips middle and boil boil for for aa third third 22 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain very very carefully. carefully. and Put them jars and them into into cans preserving jars cans or or preserving and coyer cover with with the the Put brine as as in the preceding recipe. same brine same in the preceding recipe. Cooking time time in in Cooking cooking time time in in Cooking weight of of cans cans aa 110° (gT.F.) IIT"c: Weight C. (230°F.) bain-marie aa bain-marie steririser steriliser g. (l lb.) 500 l0 minutes 20 minutes minutes 500 g. (lIb.) 10 minutes 20 (2f lb.) I1 kg. kg. (2i 15 minutes 30 minutes 30 minutes lb.) 15 minutes (a| lb.) 2 kg. kg. (41 lb.) 40 minutes minutes 40 2 Cream of of asparagus asparagus soup soup -- See See SOUP, SOUP, Cream Crearn soups. soups. Cream Aryaragus beaped heaped in in aa croustade croustade àI la ta Carême. Car6me. Br.nssoN Asparagus BUISSON D'AspERGEs EN cRousrADn A u cmtrr,rn Cook the of the tips tips of D'ASPERGES EN CROUSTADE À LA CARÊME -- Cook thick white asparagus asparagus in salted water, thick white in salted water, keeping keeping thern them aa little Coat each Drain and and dry dry on on aa napkin. napkin. Coat each one one little underdone. underdone. Drain in in aspic aspic mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Chill Chili thoroughly thoroughly in in aa refrigerator. refrigerator. Arrange Arrange in in aa low low flan flan shell, shell, made made of of pie pie pastry pastry and and baked baked blind, and half-filled half-filled with with a a salad salad of of green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blind, and and truffes, seasoned with oil and lemon iuice. and trutHes, seasoned with oil and lemon juice.

Asparagus au gratin au gratin Asparagus

D'ASrERGES vERTEs D'ASPERGES VERTES -

Asparagus au gratin. ASPERGES au gratin. AspERcEs AU AU GRATIN GRATTNCook in in salted salted Asparagus - Cook water and and drain drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Arrange Arrange the the asparagus asparagus in in tiers water tiers

in aa fireproof fireproof dish. dish. in Pour Mornay Mornay sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce (see over the the tips tips only. Pour SAUCE) over only. Coyer Cover the rest rest of of the the asparagus asparagus with greaseproof paper. with greaseproof paper. Sprinkle the Sprinkle the sauce sauce with grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted melted butter, the butter, and brown brown the the tips. tips. Remove Remove the paper before the paper before serving. serving. and Asparagus ài la la milanaise. milanaise. ASPERGES AspERcEs À A LA r,.l MILANAISE Dur,c,Nrusn -Asparagus Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Asparagus au gratin, Proceed au gratin, but omit omit the the Mornay Mornay sauce. sauce. but Asparagus ài la la Mornay. Mornay. ASPERGES AspERGEs À A LA u MORNAY rrlonN,ly -- Another Asparagus name for for Asparagus au gratin. name Asparagus with with noisette noisette butter. butter. ASPERGES AspERcEs AU AU BEURRE Asparagus NoTSETTE -- Cook Cook the asparagus by the usual usual method. Serve NOISETTE Noisette butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) separately. separately. Noisette Alternatively, arrange cooked and well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus Alternatively, arrange in aa dish, and keep it warm in the oyen. oven. Just before serving, in serving, sprinkle it it with with sizzling noisette sprinkle noisette butter. Asparagus polonaise. ASPERGES mpm,cns A Asparagus àI la la polonaise. À rl LA poLoNArsE POLONAISE Proceed described in Proceed as as described in the recipe for Asparagus Asparagus mr au gratin. gratin. Cover Coyer the tips with with chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and parsley. parsley. When pour on When ready ready to to serve, serve,pour on sizzling sizzling Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) in in which freshly grated white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have have been been fried fried until until light light golden brown. brown. Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange the the asparagus on a a serving serving dish and breadcrumbs separately. separately. and serve serve the butter and breadcrumbs Asparagus soufr6. SOUFFLÉS, Souffii Soufflé of various various souffié. See See SOUFFLES, vegetables.' vegetables. Asparagus Asparagus tips tips for for gardshes. garnisbes. porNTEs POINTES D',q,spERcns D'ASPERGES -Scrape, Scrape, if if necessary, necessary, and and cut cut the the tips tips into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) lengths; lengths; tie tie into into bundles. bundles. Cook Cook as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Green Green asparagus asparagus tlps. tips. (see (see below). below). IfIf this this garnish garnish is is used used for for hot hot dishes, dishes, the the asparagus asparagus tips tips should he added added at at the the very very last last moment; moment; cook cook them them fiist first should be in in water, water, drain, drain, and and dress dress with with melted melted butter butter or or cream. cream. Asparagus an excellent excellent garnish garnish for for eggs eggs which which have have Asparagus makes makes an been been scrambled, scrambled, lightly lightly boiled, boiled, au au plat, plat, poached poached or or in in an an omelette. omelette. Also Also for for some sorne fish fish dishes, dishes, and and for for meat meat served served in in small small portions portions -- cutlets, cutlets, escalopes, escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, small small fillets, fillets, tournedas, tournedos, etc., etc., for for calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, and and for for fowls fowls and and chickens. chickens. When Wh en asparagus asparagus tips tips are are intended intended for for garnishing garnishing or or for for cold salads, they they must must be be dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water as as soon soon as as co Id salads, they they are are co.oked, co.oked, and and well weil drained. drained. Season Season with with vinaigrette, vinaigrette, or or mayonnaise, mayonnaise, or or bind bind with wi th meat mea tjelly. jelly. Asparagus Asparagustips tipswith witbcretm. cream.porNTEs POINTESD'AspERGEs D'ASPERGESAÀr,c, LAcRi;ur CRÈME Cook asparagus asparagus tips tips and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh -- Cook double double cream cream which which has has previously previously been been scalded. scalded. Blend Blend inin lightly and season. season. Arrange Arrange in in aa vegetable vegetable dish dish with with tips tips lightly and uppermost. uppermost.

Asparagus heaped in a croustade d la Car€me Asparagus beaped in a croustade li la Carême

Asparagus Asparagus Ià la la flamande. Oamande. AspERGEs ASPERGES A À r,,c, LA rrA,MAr.rDe FLAMANDE -- Serve Serve hot, hot, with with melted melted butter. butter. Halves Halves of of hot, hot, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs are are served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates served separately. The guests mash the eggs on their plates and and mix mix them them with with the the melted melted butter. butter. Asparagus in batter. batler. FRrror FRITOT D'Aspm.cEs D'ASPERGES -- Cook Cook the the Asparagus frid fried in tips of large green white or asparagus tips of large white or green asparagus in in salted salted boiling boiling water water for 5 minutes. Drain, for 5 minutes. Drain, dry, dry, and and marinate marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in juice oil, oil, lemon lemon juice or or vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. When When nearly nearly ready ready to to serve, serve, dip dip the the asparagus asparagus tips tips into into aa light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with fine fine salt, and arrange in a heap on aa napkin. napkin. salt, and arrange in a heap on Asparagus Asparagus ià la la Fontanelle. Fontanelle. lspm.cns ASPERGES AÀ ra LA roNr,lNELLE FONTANELLE -Boil Boil the the asparagus asparagus in in salted salted water water and and drain. drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted butter. butter. Soft-boiled eggs are served Soft-boiled eggs are served with with this this dish, dish, the the guests guests dipping asparagus in in the the melted melted butter butter and and then then in in the the dipping the the asparagus egg. egg. 54 54

ASPIC Asparagrs Asparagus tips in butter. porNTEs POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES AU BEURRE BEURRERemove the the tips from from a a bundle bundle of asparagus; scrape scrape and dice the rest. Cook Cook the diced diced pieces, drain well, weil, and dry in a pan over heat. Add small pieces of butter in the proportion proportion of of 75 g. (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter butter to 250 g. (9 oz.) asparaasparagus, and stir gently. Heap into a dish, and garnish gamish with the tips, which have been lightly lightly cooked in salted water. Green asparagus tips. rorvr.ns POINTES D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES vERTEs VERTES - Cut off the tough stalks, keeping the tender parts of green green asparaasparagus. Tie these into bundles of 8 to l0 10 shoots. Cut the lower lower part of these bundles into dice, keeping keepillg the actual tips tied together. Cook the diced asparagus asparagus in boiling salted water for 4 minutes, then add the bundles of of tips. Boil briskly, with the saucepan saucepan uncovered, for 7 or 8 minutes. Drain the bundles and and the the diced diced asparagus. asparagus. Dip Dip in in cold co Id water water and and cool. Proceed indicated in the chosen recipe. recipe. Proceed as indicated Puree Purée of green green rsparrgus. asparagus. prinrn PUREE D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES vERTES VERTES Cook Cook asparagus asparagus tips in fast-boiling, fast-boiling, salted salted water, drain, and rub through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat the pur6e, purée, and and add add butter and cream. cream. This puree purée is used as a garnish. White ssparagus CROÛTE cRlrrNfr GRATINÉE lux AUX asparagus with fried bread. cno0ru ASrERGES lb.) of white asparagus ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHESBlanch 500 500 g. (l (lIb.) ofwhite asparagus - Blanch tips tips in salted water for for 8 minutes, minutes, drain, drain, and and simmer simmer in butter until cooked. Cut decrusted bread into slices slices l0 10 cm. (4 inches) and 6 cm. (2|inches) (21 inch es) wide, and and fry in butter. butter. inch es) long long and Put Put 77 or or 88 asparagus asparagus tips on each each slice slice of offried bread, sprinkle sprinkle fried bread, with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, pour on the butter in which which the asparagus asparagus was cooked, cooked, and brown the top top lightly. White aspuagus asparagus with witb melted butter. butter. ASrERGEs ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES AU AU BELJRRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU * - Cook the asparagus asparagus in salted water, drain and serve, piping hot, with warm melted butter. The butter should be be melted over over aa gentle gentle heat heat and and seasoned seasoned with butter salt, pepper and a dash of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Pur6e Purée of white asparagus. asparagus. pun6n PURÉE D'AspnRGES D'ASPERGES BLANcHES BLANCHES Blanch 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) white asparagus asparagus tips lips for 8 minutes, drain, drain, and simmer sim mer lightly in butter. butter. Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with 2t Moisten with 2-!- dl. dl. (scant 1- pint, generous generous cup) thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Rub Rub through through a fine sieve. Heat Heat the pur6e purée and add butter. butter. This This purde purée is used used as as a a garnish garnish for poached or lightly boiled boiled eggs, eggs, for for small pieces pieces of of meat, meat, for for chicken, chicken, for filling patties and tartlets. tartlets. White White aspffagus asparagus salad. SALADE SALADE D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES BLANcHEs BLANCHES the asparagus asparagus tips tips in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip in in cold cold Cook the

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water, drain again and dry in aa napkin. napkin. Arrange in aa salad bowl or an hors-d'œuvre Arrange hors-d'eavre dish. Pour on well-whisked vinaigrette, or aa mixture of oil, oil, lemon juice, well-whisked well whisked, so that the sauce pepper. This must be weil salt and pepper. covers the asparagus in a layer. Serve chilled. ASIERGES BLANCHES BLANcIIES White asparagus with with cold cold sauces. White saucesL ASPERGES AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES FRorDEs FROIDES -- Cook AvEc and drain. Cook the the asparagus asparagus and Arrange Arrange on a dish serve with one dish and serve one of of the following sauces: Mayonnaise, Mustard, Mus tard, Tartare, Vinaigrette Vinnigrette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). White White asparagus with hot bot sauces. sauces. ASeERGEs ASPERGES BLANCHES asparagus with BLANcHEs AVEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES CHAUDES cHAUDES -- Cook the asparagus asparagus in salted water and drain. drain. Serve the following following sauces: and Serve separately one one of the sauces: Butter, Bdtarde, Bâtarde, Chantilly, Maltaise, Chantilly, Cream, Cream, Hollandaise, Maltaise, Mousseuse, Noisette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ASPERULA. ASpERULE ASPÉRULE - Plant which is is both both useful useful and ASPERUI"A. pleasant. It It is called sweet is also also called sweet woodruff, mugwort, sweet sv)eet grass and quinsy quinsy wort. wort. Its ftowers are used as as an grass and Its white white flowers are used infusion, and for distilling distilling liqueurs. ln some sorne northern northem countries it is is also used for flavouring fiavouring In sausages. sausages.

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to aa way of arranging arranging cold ASPIC -- Term which applies to

putting slices It consists consists of ofputting slices or fillets of dishes. It of chicken, game,

various meats, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, etc., etc., into into moulded moulded various jelly. Many authors authors believe that that this this name name comes cornes from from the Many coldness recalls that that of the ca lied asp, asp, 'whose icy coldness serpent called jelly', jelly', but it is more probably derived from the Greek word aspis, which which means buckler buckler or shield. It was, in fact, in this aspr,s, moulds were made; others were made in form that the first moulds a coiled coiled snake, snake, doubtless to justify the name name the shape of a 'aspic'. Whatever its its origin, origin, the the word word aspic is is applied applied to to very Whatever preparations: foie Joie gras gras in in aspic, aspic, chicken chicken in in aspic, different preparations: partridge in aspic, lobster lobs ter in aspic, aspic, fillets fiUets of oJ sole in aspic. For methods methods of aspic aspic preparations preparations of meat, meat, chicken, For game, shellfish and and fish, fish, see see the the following following entries in their game, alphabetical order: CHICKEN, CHICKEN, LOBSTER, PHEASANT, PHEASANT, alphabetical SHRIMP, SOLE. SHRIMP, made of of fruit and set in in jelly jelly moulds are also Sweet dishes made ca lied aspics. aspics. The word word aspic is is used, used, too, too, for the actual called jelly. jelly. ln In his book book devoted to cold co Id enties, entrées, Car6me Carême describes the method of of preparing preparing aspic jelly as follows: 'Clean 'Clean and and singe singe 2 2 chickens, chickens, wash wash them them thoroughly, thoroughly, truss them, and and place place in a small marmite marmite (q.v.) with a round truss of veal, veal, other other veal trimmings and a little little ham. Add 6 boned of and blanched calves' feet, fill the marmite marmite with water, water, and from the flame. A leave to cook on a hot stove, but away from much lighter lighter aspic, aspic, easy easy to to clarify, cJarify, is is obtained obtained by by this much process. Skim thoroughly, and add half half a bay leaf, leaf, a little process. and basil, basil, a bunch of parsley and and spring onions, onions, 2 thyme and carrots and 2 onions. on ions. Keep Keep the the jelly jelly simmering simmering gently and 2 carrots for 4 hours. for 'Whisk 44 egg egg whites whites with aa glass glass of ofwhite or Madeira, Madeira, 'Whisk white wine or you wish to and the the same same amount amollnt of ofveal stock ififyou to give give itit some sorne veal stock and colour; ifif not, not, omit omit the the stock. stock. Add Add to to thejelly, the jelly, place place on on aa high colour; fla me, and whisk until until the mixture is boiling. Turn heat to flame, Taste, in case a little little salt is needed. very low. Taste, Coyer the pan and leave leave to simmer for about about 2 minutes, Cover be clear. cJear. mixture should be when the mixture napkin in water, water, wring wring out out well, weil, and and tie lie the Rinse a a napkin Rinse corners to an upturned chair. Strain the aspic through the napkin.' napkin.' Carême also also describes describes how how aspic aspic should be be coloured: coloured: Cardme of the principal presentations presentations of of cold co Id dishes consists consists 'One of these clarified, c1arified, transparent transparent jellies jellies of 2 colours only -of these one should be be white white and the other other of of a good strong colour.' one

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j

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Arrangement of of aspic, after after Arrangement Carême Car6me

55 55

ASPIC ASPIC

Aspic moulds moulds Aspic

great Laguipière perfect colourings how the great Laguipibre achieved achieved perfect colourings He tells how jellies: 'Melt granulated sugar 'Melt granulated sugar and, and, without without moistenmoistenfor his jellies: ing it, it, let let itit colour colour little little by little on by little on red-hot red-hot cinders, cinders, which which ing quarter of should take take about about aa qu~rter of an an hour. hour. When When itit becomes becomes should amber-red caramel, glass of with half caramel, moisten moisten with half aa glass water and of water and amber-red place the pan over hotter fiame. flame. After the pan over aa hotter After several several minutes minutes of of place amber-red, totally clear amber-red, totally unlike unlike the boiling it becomes aa clear the bitter bitter get black caramel w which is allowed allowed to to get black on on aa high high fiame flame and and caramel hich is commonly called called "monkey's "monkey's blood.'" blood."' which is commonly The modern modern method process isis given method of given of the the clarifying clarifying process The under the the entryentitled entry entitled JELLIES, and and in in the below. under the one one below. jelly -- To (4| quarts, of aspic quarts, litres (41 aspic jeUy To c1arify clarify 55 litres Clarification of jelly stock, quarts) jelly (l lb.) lean 5| quarts) add 3 egg g. (lIb.) stock, add egg whites and and 500 lean 500 g. minced beef. Add aa tablespoon oftarragon of tarragon and and aa tablespoon tablespoon chervil, roughly roughly chopped. Whisk Whisk lightly. of chervil, lightly. Heat Heat the the stock stock is tepid, tepid, skimming skimming off aa little until it is off aIl all the the fat: fat: this this isis imimto the the boil, whisking all portant. Bring to all the Lower the the time. time. Lower the heat and and simmer gently for for 35 minutes. heat Rinse a napkin in water, wring out out thoroughly, thoroughly, and and strain strain aspic through through the napkin. the aspic jelly can Aspic jelly can be be fiavoured flavoured with with various various dessert dessert wines: port, sherry, Frontignan, port, Frontignan, sherry, Marsala, Marsala, Madeira, Madeira, Malvasia (Malvoisie). These wines, wines, which which are are only added added to to the jelly when it is used in the proportion of is tepid, are used per litre of 1I dl. dl. per litre (3 tablespoons per pint) of (3 of jelly in the the case of dessert dessert wines, and 2 dl. in the case of Champagne, Sauternes, Alsatian, or or other white wines. Instructions Instructions for making various aspic jellies will be found found Meat jellies. jellies. under JELLIES, Meat Aspics in moulds mouldsAspics set in plain moulds, charlotte- Aspics are set moulds or moulds with a ho le in type moulds hole in the middle. Coat the mould with aa thin layer of as indicated in of jelly, as in pressing into the recipes. Decorate by pressing into the jelly small pieces truffie, cooked lean harn of trufre, ham or tongue, and white of hardand white egg for meat, meat, chicken game aspics. boiled egg chicken or or game aspics. For fish fish or aspics use use pieces pieces of trufre, truffie, white shellfish aspics white of of hard-boiled hard-boiled coral of shellfish or slivers of smoked salmon. egg, the coral

Aspic crofitons. Aspic croOtons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE DE GELÉE cnrfs -- Aspics Aspics cut into cut into jelly must shapes -- triangles. shapes triangles, rectangles, rectangles, crescents, crescents, etc. etc. The The jelly must be clear clear and and solid. solid. be When aa number number of When of croûtons crotitons have pour the have to to be be made, made, pour the jelly into into aa large jelly large baking baking dish dish to quite firm, to set. set. When When itit isis quite firm, turn turn out out onto onto aa damp damp cloth cloth which which has has been been stretched stretched and and fastened to fastened to aa table. table. Cut with aa knife Cut up up with knife ifif the the croûtons cro0tons are are rectilinear in pastry-cutter rectilinear tter ifif they in shape, shape, or with aa pastry-cu or with they are round. are round. The technical The technical term gelie means crotttonner de term croûtonner de gelée means to to surround surround sorne jelly cut some cold cold food food with with croûtons cro0tons of ofjelly cut into into shapes. shapes. Aspic Aspic of freshwater crayfish of freshwater crayfish tails. Asprc DE DE QUEUES tails. ASPIC euEUEs p'fcnnvrssns -- Cook D'ÉCREVISSES (see Cook the crayfish àd lala mirepoix mirepoix (see the crayfish MIREPOIX). MIREPOIX). Shell Shell the the tails plain tails and and arrange airange them them in in aa plain round round mould mould which which has has been coated withjelly. been coated with jelly. Fill Fill the the mould mould either YFISH) or (see CRA either with with aa Crayfish Crayfi,sh mousse mousse (see CRAYFISH) or aaRussian Russian (see SALAD). salad salad (see SALAD). Chili ice. Chill on on ice. porssoNs - This Aspic Aspic of of fish. fish. ASPIC esprc DE DE POISSONS can be be made with made with - This can fish fish of various kinds, of various kinds, cut cut in in fillets, fillets, slices slices or medallions. Fill or medallions. Fill the the middle middle of of the the aspic aspic dish dish with with aa fish fish mousse mousse appropriate appropriate to particular recipe; to the the particular with Russian recipe; with Russian salad; salad; or or with with any any mixture mixture normally normally used used for for cold cold dishes. dishes. Aspic gras J.I. ASPIC Aspic of foie gras plain of foie mplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs -- Coat Coat aa plain jelly and mould mould with with jelly gras, and fill fill itit with with uniform uniform slices slices of of foie foie gras, garnished garnished with with large large slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with jelly. Leave half-set jelly. Leave on plate or on ice ice to to set. set. Serve Serve on on aa plate or in in aa glass glass dish. dish. Aspic gras II. Aspic of of foie foie gras II. ASPIC lsplc DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS -- Coat Coat aa mould mould jelly (or jelly fiavoured with port-fiavoured port-flavoured jelly (or jelly flavoured with with any any other other heavy wine). Fill heavy wine). Fill with with truBles truffes cut cut into into neat neat round round slices, slices, round pieces of pickled tongue, round pieces of ham ham or or pickled tongue, and, and, if if desired, desired, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled eggs eggs cut cut in in rings. rings. Fill the mould withjeIly. with jelly. Chill on ice ice or or in in the Chill on the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve, serve, turn turn the aspic onto the aspic onto aa fiat flat dish, dish, or or onto onto slices slices of of buttered bread. If served bread. If served on on aa dish, dish, decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly,and jelly triangles. jelly.and triangles. This This aspic aspic can can also also be be made made by filling the mould with by filling the mould with foie gras slices gras cut slices of of/oie cut out out with aa shell-shaped shell-shaped scoop. scoop.

st

Sole (Battendier. Phot. in aspic Sole in aspic (Battendier. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

Lobster in in aspic (Battendier. (Battendier. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse) Lobster

56 56 Beef pot-ou-feu (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas) Beef po t-au-feu (Lasserr e. P ho t. N ico las)

'lnr.

ASPIC

Chicken in aspic (Roberr Carrier)

5757 Roast and strips of red pepper, Roastsirloin garnishedwitb sirloinofofbeef beefgarnished withFrench Frenchbeans beans and strips of red pepper, carrot aod potato baskets (Phol. .\Iicolas) sticks and potato baskets (Pfrot. N it'olas\ carrotsticks

ASSIETTE Aspic of frogs' legs Ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. Asprc ASPIC DE DE GRENouTLLES GRENOUILLES A À t'lNcreNue L'ANCIENNE -- Poach trimmed frogs' legs legs in white wine flavoured thyme and a bay flavoured with a sprig sprig of ofthyme bay leaf. Leave Leave to cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, dry, and and coat half half of of them them completely completely with a white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce based based on meatless meatless stock, stock, and and the other other half half with with a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce coloured coloured with crayfish butter (see (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). sauces). Lay Lay the frogs' frogs' legs on a wire tray, one by one, and leave them them to get quite cold. Decorate with truffies truffles cut in thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Arrange Arrange the the frogs' frogs' legs legs round round the sides of of a mould which has has been been coated coated with jelly, jelly, alternating them with with peeled crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Fill the middle middle of of the the mould mould with a Parisian salad (see (see SALAD), dressed dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise which which has has been been thickened thickened with gelatine. gelatine. Pour Pour a thin layer layer of aspic aspic jelly on ice. jelly over over the the whole, whole, and and chill chillon To To serye, serve, turn turn out onto onto a dish dish and and decorate decorate with a border border of of jelly jelly cro0tons croûtons (q.v.). (q.v.).

of cold co Id meats meats (Laroussel (Larousse) Plate of

-

Assiettes volantes - This This term term describes describes a a selection of several items items of food food on one one plate, in the the manner manner of an several hors-d'œuvre, particularly particularly various kinds of salty salty foods foods cut hors-d'euvre, thin slices. slices. in thin the beginning beginning of the the nineteenth Assiettes garnies -- At the century, this this term term also also applied to ta a dish. century, Carême says: 'Lunch consisted of six assleltes assiettes on which Car€me cutlets, fish, chicken, chic ken, game, game, a side-dish of of vegetables, vegetables, veal cutlets, and soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs were were served.' served.' and

Little Little chicken chicken aspics aspics

(about 25 miles) from ASTI -- Italian Italian town town situated 40 km. (about ASTI Turin. It It is is the the ancient ancient Asta Asta Colonia or Asta Asta Pompeia Pompeia of of the Turin. Romans, and is is famous famous for its sparkling wine, made from Romans, Moscato grapes, grapes, called called Asti Asti Spumante Spumante (see WINE). WINE). Moscato

Aspic of of poultry poultry and and feathered feathered grme. game. Asplc ASPIC DE DE voLAILLEs VOLAlLLES -Aspic Coat slices slices of of chicken chicken or or game game with with white white or or brown brown ChaudChaudCoat froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and put put them them in in aa mould mould which which froid jelly. Fill has been been coated coated with with aspic aspicjelly. Fill the the mould mould with with either either aa has chicken or or game game mousse, mousse, or or with with some sorne other other mixture mixture used used chicken

ASTRAGAL (Milk vetch). ASTRAGALE ASTRAGALE - Many varieties of ASTRAGAL astragal grow in Asia; it is also also found found in the the temperate astragal regions of of the the Lebanon. Lebanon. One One variety variety of of milk milk vetch vetch produces regions gum tragacanth, tragacanth, which which is is used used in confectionery confectionery and pastrypastrygum making. making.

for for cold cold dishes. dishes.

of shrimps shrimps or or other other shellfish. shellfish. Asprc ASPIC DE DE cREvETTEs CREVEITES -Aspic of Aspic Coat an an aspic aspic mould mould with with clear clear fish fish jelly. jelly. Decorate Decorate the the sides sides Coat with with peeled peeled shrimp shrimp tails tails and and small small pieces pieces of of truffie. truffle. Fill Fill the the of the the mould mould with with aa cold cold shrimp shrimp mousse mousse mixed mixed with with middle of middle shrimp tails tails and and truffies truffles cut cut into into large large dice. dice. Fill Fill the the mould mould shrimp with jelly, jelly, and and leave leave on on ice ice to to set. set. with be prepared prepared in in the the same same way, way, using using Crayfish aspics aspics can can be Crayfish trimmed crayfish crayfish tails tails and and crayfish crayfish mousse. mousse. Spiny Spiny lobster lobster or or trimmed lobster aspics aspics are are made made by by Using using slices slices of of one one or or other other of of lobster these shellfish, shellfish, together together with with the the appropriate appropriate mousse. mousse. these ASSIETIE -- See See PLATE. PLA TE. ASSIETTE of cold cold meats meats arranged arranged on on Assiette anglaise anglaise -- Assortment Assortment of Assiette plate or or aa dish. dish. aa plate The assortment assortment usually usually consists consists of of York York ham, ham, salt salt beef, beef, The tongue, rib rib of of beef beef or or roast roast beef. beef. Mortadella, Mortadella, galantine, galantine, tongue, etc., are are sometimes sometimes added added to to it. it. etc., The meat meat is is garnished garni shed with with chopped chopped jelly, jelly, cress cress and and The gherkins. The The assiette assiette anglaise anglaise isis served served chiefly chiefly at at lunch. lunch. gherkins. The term term assiettes assiettesassorties assorties describes describes various various preparations preparations The served as as hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, thotgh though hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ate are usually usually served served nowadays nowadays in in special special hors-teuvre hors-d'œuvre dishes. dishes. served

Astragal Astragal a. Astragalus AstragaJus of of Crete Crete b. b. Liquorice Liquorice vetch vetch c. c. Fruit Fruit a.

58 58

ATTELET AITELET were cooked great number of dishes were cooked In In the past, when wh en aa great burning fue was actually burning in the fireplace, the thepart part where the fire (hearth). It stews hearth that It was in in the hearth that stews dtre (hearth). was called the âtre preparations which slowly long time were were slowly which take aa long and other preparations

Another Another variety variety produces produces fruit fruit in the form of of pods, pods, which, which, the seeds seeds contained contained in in them them are are formed, formed, resemble resemble before the before wonns. worms. In In the the past past these pods pods used to be added to salads (to (to mystify mystify the guests guests !). !). Astragalus Astragalus pods pods are are also also pickled in vinegar, like like capers. vinegar, seeds of There is yet another variety of astragalus, the the seeds which, when ripe, are used in cookery. cookery. which,

cooked, surrounded by hot coals. gas, in ovens heated by gas, All these dishes are today cooked in Ali protest gastronomes protest few gastronomes oil. Quite coal or or oil. electricity, coal electricity, Quite aa few maintaining that that dishes cooking, maintaining of cooking, against these methods of against prepared in this way as as when cooked by by cannot taste so good prepared cannot the old methods. When nothing in the claim. When Experience shows that there is nothirig Experience (and kitchen utensils have today today used (and well-made utensils are used weIl-made perfection), food cooked point of food can can be be cooked high point of perfection), reached aa high reached product and whatever whatever the the method. successfully, whatever whatever the product successfully,

vegetable ASTRINGENT -- Binding, Binding, contracting. contracting. The The vegetable ASTRINGENT

owe their their properties to tannin. Among Among them are astringents owe

of walnut cutch, bark bark of of oak, oak, quinquina, quinquina, leaves leaves of walnut tree, cutch, bramble, lemon lemon juice, quinces, quinces, etc. arbutus tree and bramble,

ASTRODERME - Sea fish of of an an unusual unusual appearance, appearance, ASTRODERME Sea fish round spots, yellowish pink on on the back back and sides with black round yellowish Young astrosilvery spots spots on on the the belly. belly. Young alternating with silvery This bellies. This dermes have have purplish-blue bodies bodies and and silvery silvery bellies. dermes is well known fei" d'America d'America by Nice fishermen, fishermen, is weil known fish, called fel of France along the the whole whole of the the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast coast of along (Côte d'Azur). (C6te bouillabaise...' It is chiefly used as an ingredient ingredient for for bouillabaise

-

plant of family as as of the the same same family Herbaceous plant ATRIPLEX -- Herbaceous ATRIPLEX genus Chenopodium. goosefoot genus Chenopodh*n. and the the goosefoot spinach and spinach garden orach; as garden orach; itit isis known as is commonly commonly known The atriplex atriplex is The prepared like like It isis prepared grown aIl France. It all over over France. and grown cultivated and cultivated spinach. (See ORACH.) spinach.

ATHENA EUS -- Greek writer, born in Naucratis, Naucratis, in Egypt, ATHENAEUS

reign ofMarcus ive in the reign still al alive Aurelius. He was still of Marcus Aurelius. in the reign year A.D. of Alexander Alexander Severus, about the year 228. xo.228. Only one of his entitled Deipnosohas survived, entitled works has his works phistai or Specialists is aa gem of erudition, phistai in Dining, which is Specialists in giving much much information would history which we would giving information on ancient history otherwise lack. In Specialists relating ln Specialists in Dining, there are several passages relating to both practical uses, both various uses, and their their various fruit and and fruit to flowers and and pleasurable. and pleasurable. ATHÉNIENNE (À (A V) dishes various dishes L') -- Name applying applying to to various ATIffiMENNE which are and onion, and fried onion, lightly fried flavoured with with lightly are usually usually flavoured garnished garnished with aubergines, sweet pimentos. and sweet aubergines, tomatoes and

(Collection of Phot. Larousse) Iarousse) Antique of Dr Dr GOllschalk. Gottschalk. Phal. Antique attelets attelets(Collecrion

Athérine

hasta, meanmeanATTELET Latin hasta, from the the Latin This word word cornes comes from ATTELET -- This often past was ing It isisoften spelt hatelet. hatelet.It was spelt in the the past and in staff or rod, and ing staff or rod, which used, metal skewers skewers on on which little metal describe !ittle incorrectly, to to describe used, incorrectly, various sweetbreads, lambs'sweetbreads, pieces of kidneys, lambs; meat, sheeps' sheeps' kidneys, of meat, various pieces larks, are threaded. threaded. larks, etc., etc., are To shape of ofaa in the the shape little utensil utensil in precise, an attelet isis aa little an allelet To be be precise, with mental top. pin These, with top. These, pin or with an an orna ornamental skewer, but but with or skewer, truffles, food items of of food other items and other crayfish and cocks' combs, combs, crayfish truffies, cocks' threaded hot or or cold cold for decorating decorating hot solely for are used usedsolely on them, them, are threaded on dishes grand style. style. in the the grand dishes served served in For grand entrées, advocated the the entries, Carême Car0me advocated For arranging arranging these thesegrand use cookery In modern modern cookery great number attelets. In number of of allelets. use of of aa great practice practically abandoned. abandoned. practice this has been been practically decoration has this decoration Modern decoration useof of any anydecoration as aarule, rule, the the use disdain, as Modern cooks cooks disdain, which edible. which isis not not actually actually edible. ItIt isis probable Car6me's decorating Carême's probable that attelets decorating the allelets that the entrées andthe effects theeffects fact, edible were,inin fact, edibleand removes were, entriesand and removes obtained beautiful. certainly beautifu!' obtained were were certainly

ATHÉRINE body, fish, with with aa long, long, spindle-shaped spindle-shaped body, ATfffiRINE -- Little Little fish, covered posterior end. The sides sides end. The with rounded rounded scales scales at at the the posterior covered with have the head isis flattened flattened on on the the top, top, the have aa silvery silvery stripe, stripe, the the head upper th are jaw isis shorter are very very lower, and and the the tee teeth shorter than than the the lower, upper jaw smal!. small. Two coasts of of France, France, fish are Two species species of are known known on on the the coasts of this this fish where prêtre and faux éperlan. where they are called calledprdtre andfaux iperlan. they are Common English are silversideand and sand-smelt, sand-smelt, names in in English are silverside Common narnes and species are are fishermen take enormous catches. catches. Other Other species and the the fishermen take enormous found coast lakes. lakes. found in in the and Mediterranean Mediterranean coast the estuaries estuaries and In fish. Its Its fiesh flesh isis In the smelts correspond correspond to to this this fish. the U.S.A., U.S.A., smelts delicate delicate in in flavour. flavour. Athérines are usuaIly in deep deep fat, fat, fried in Athirines are usually fried but for small small bass can be be applied applied to to this this recipes suitable suitable for bass can all recipes but ail fish. fish. ÂTRE (Hearth stone) today, This word word isis no no longer longer used used today, Afnn (Hearth stone) -- This except pastrypart of the baker's baker's or or pastryexcept to to describe describe the the central central part of the cook's oyen. cook's oven. 59 59

ATTENDU ATTENDU ATTENDU -- French French culinary culinaryterm term applied applied totoaadish dish or or ATTENDU beverage the the consumption consumption of of which which isis intentionally intentionally postpostbeverage poned in in order pheasant should order to to improve improve it. it. Thus Thusaa pheasant shouldbe be poned attendu, that that is, is, kept kept hung, hung, before before being being cooked cooked and andeaten. eaten. attendu,

whichhas hasbeen beenadded concentratedgame gamestock added concentrated stockreduced reducedtoto which (q.u.).Finish afumet (g.v.). Finish asasdescribed described ininthe therecipe recipefor forAttereaux afumet Attereaux chalonaise. àdlaIachalonaise. pannesan(Parma (Parma style) Attereaur auauparmesan style)- - Cook Attereaux Cooksemolina semolina (q.v.)ininbutter, butter,and andwhen firm,thread whenfinn, threadslices (q.v.) sliceson onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Addslices slicesof ofGruyère Gruydre cheese. cheese. Add Dip the theattereaux attereauxininegg eggand andbreadcrumbs Dip breadcrumbsand anddeep-fry. deep-fry. Attereauxofofcalves' calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Attereaux Villeroi.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAux DE DE RIsDE DEVEAU vEAU VILLEROI vrLLERor - - Braise Braise uniform piecesofofcalves' RIS uniform pieces calves' sweetbreads ininaa white (q.v.)and white court-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.) sweetbreads andthread thread them on onthe theattereaux. attereaux. Finish Finishasasdescribed them described ininthe therecipe recipefor for Attereaux àdlalachalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of ofchicken chickenlivers livers ài lalamirepoix. Attereaux mirepoix.ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE ForESDE DEVOLAILLE VoLATLLE ÀA LA FOIES u MIREPOIX unBpox - - Fry Frychicken chickenlivers liversinin butter, drain drain and butter, and cool. cool. Thread Thread them themon onthe theatlereaux, attereaux. piecesof with pieces together with together of lean leancooked cooked ham, ham,and andsliced slicedmushmushrooms. Coat rooms. Coat the the atlereaux (q.v.)ofofroot attereaux with with aafondue root fondue (g.v.) pieces, roll vegetables vegetables cut cut into into very verysmall small pieces, roll inin breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and finish finish asas described described inin the therecipe recipefor for Atlereaux Attereaux àdlala chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux TTEREA UX DE Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' brains brains Villeroi. Villeroi. AATTEREAUX DE CERVELLE cERvELLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI VILLERoI - - Cut Cut up uplambs' lambs' brains brainsand and cook cook them in aa white (q.v.).Cool them in white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.). anddrain, Cooland drain, and pepper, oil, and season season with with salt, salt, pepper, oil, aa few few drops drops of lemon of lemon juice, and juice, and aa liule little chopped parsley. Thread chopped parsley. Thread on onthe the atlereaux, attereaux, and and finish finish as as described described inin the the recipe recipe for for Allereaux Attereaux àdlala chalonaise. chalonaise. Atlereaux Attereaux of of calves' prepared inin the calves' brains brains are are prepared thesame same manner. manner.

(Skewer) -- In ATTEREAU (Skewer) In his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de decuisine cuisine etet ATTEREAU (Paris 1836), d iconomie (Paris 1836), Burnet, Burnet, one-time one-time steward steward of of the the d'économie royal household, gives the household, gives following definition the following definition of of attereau: attereau: royal 'Name which which keepers keepers of of eating-houses eating-houses attribute attribute toto aa kind kind 'Name of ragoût ragofit made made of of fiUet fillet of of veal, veal, cut cut inin very very thin thin slices. slices. They They of are studded studded with with lardoons lardoons and pie dish and cooked cooked in in aa pie dish with with aa are poured over little stock stock poured over them.' them.' little Car€me, however, however, in in his published before his works works published before Burnet's Burnet's Carême, dictionary, describes describes aa method method of preparation of of preparation of attereaux attereaux dictionary, which indicates indicates that that this this dish dish isis in in no no way way aa ragoût. ragofrt. In ln which modern cookery, cookery, attereau attereau describes describes both both the the metal metal skewer skewer modern on which which various various ingredients ingredients are are threaded, threaded, and and the the dish dish on itself. This This is is usualJy usually served served as as an an hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, but but can can also also itself. be served served as as aa small small entrée entrde ifif supplemented supplemented by garnish. by aa garnish. be Attereaux differ differ from from brochettes brochettes in in being being dipped dipped in in aa Attereaux give them sauce to to give them aa finn firm coating, coating, rolled rolled in in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sauce and usually deep-fried. deep-fried. and The ingredients ingredients which which make make up up the the attereaux attereaux can can be be The cooked on on wooden wooden skewers, skewers, and and then then transferred transferred to to sil silver ver attelets. The The attereaux attereaux can can also also be be served served without without the attelets. the on which they they were cooked. cooked. skewers on sweet courses can prepared en can be be prepared m atlereau, attereau, the Sweet the method method being the given for same as the same as that given for savoury savoury atlereaux. attereaux. being Attereaux ài la la chalonaise chalonaise -- Thread Thread the-attereaux the-attereaux with Attereaux with combs and and kidneys cooked cooked in in aa white white court-bouillon cocks' combs court-bouillon (q.v.), and and drained. Add mushrooms and and trufHes. (q.v.), truffies. Dip the the atlereaux attereaux in (see SAUCE). in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip SAUCE). Roll Roll them in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry in smoking smoking hot deep them deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, season with with fine fine sait, salt, and and arrange arrange on paper season on aa napkin napkin or or paper garnished with fried fried parsley. doyley, garnished Atterearx ài la la duchesse (dessert) -- Prepare Attereaux Prepare aa mixture mixture of of (see CUSTARD, crdme frite CUSTARD, Fried Fried custard) crème frite (see custard) to to which which have have been added added 2 crushed macaroons and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon crystalcrystallised lised fruit, cut in very small dice and and steeped steeped in in rum. rum. When firm, thread firm, thread slices of this this mixture on on the the atlereau. attereau. Roll Roll in in very fine breadcrumbs and deep-fry in in smoking hot hot fat. fat. Attereaux I l'6cossaise l'écossaise -- Make up up the Attereaux à the attereaux attereaux using using pieces (see OFF Pick led ox AL or ARIETY pieces of Pickled ox tongue tongue (see OFFAL or V VARIETY MEATS), mushrooms, and MEATS), and rather rather thick thick slices slices of trufHes. truffies. Finish recipe for Finish as described described in the recipe Attereaux àd la chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux Attereaux ià h la maralchlre maraîchère -- Use Use pieces of turnip-rooted celery celery (celeriac) (celeriac) previously previously simmered simmered in butter; mushrooms, and cooked ham ham for for the and pieces pieces of cooked the attereaux. attereazx. Finish Finish as as Attereaux àd la described in the recipe for Attereaux described Ia chalonaise. Attereaux ià la nigoise niçoise -- Make Attereaux Make up the attereaux with large stoned olives olives stuffed stuffed with aa pur6e purée of stoned of anchovies, anchovies, mushrooms, of pickled tunny. Dip them in in Villeroi pieces of and pieces (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see of concentrated tomato purée, SA UCE), with a tablespoon of SAUCE), tomato pur6e, add chopped tarragon. tarragon. Finish Finish as as described and add described in the the recipe Atlereaux dà la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux Attereaux ià la normande normande -- Make Make up up the the attereaux by Attereaux attereaux by plump mussels mussels cooked dà la marinidre, marinière, drained, threading on plump threading drained, and stuffed stuffed with with finely finely pounded fish forcemeat. Add mushand cut in in round round slices. Finish Finish as as described described in the the recipe recipe rooms cut rooms for Attereaux Atlereaux dà la chalonaise. chalonaise. for Attereaux ià la la pi6montaise piémontaise -- Make up the the attereaux with Attereaux with of polenta polenta (q.v.) (g.v.) cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and thick thick slices slices of of slices of slices truffies. Dip Dip them them in in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry deep-fry truffies. in sizzling sizzling fat. fa t. in Attereaux ià la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Make up up the the attereaux attereaux by by Attereaux of pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse, or or any any other other winged winged thread ing on on slices slices of threading Add sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms and and pieces pieces of of cooked cooked lean lean game. Add game. Dip the the attereaux atlereaux rn in Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to ham. Dip ham.

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi

Attereaux Attereaux of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ViUeroi. Villeroi. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAUx DE DE Braise Braise lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in aa white (q.v.) and white court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.) and thread thread them them on on the the atlereaux. attereaux. Finish Finish off as described off as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Atlereaux Attereaux àd la la chalonaise. chalonaise. Attereaux à la Villeroi can, in addition to the basic Attereaux d Ia Villeroi can. in addition to the basic element, also element, also contain contain mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in white mushwhite mushroom court-bouillon and room court-bouillon and cut cut in in slices. slices. Attereaux of of ox palate. ATTEREAUX pALArs DE Attereaux ATTEREAT.Tx DE ox palate. DE PALAIS DE BOEUF BoEUF -Cut the the ox palate (cooked AL or (cooked as Cut ox palate as described described under under OFF OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Ox palate), into VARIETY Ox palate\, into round round slices. Put them slices. Put them on attereaux allereaux with with alternate on alternate rows rows of of fried fried mushroom mushroom heads heads RIS RIs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU VILLEROI vTLLERoI -

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AUBERGINE AUBERGINE a plant originatAUBERGIhIE AUBERGINE or or EGGPLANT EGGPLANT -- Fruit Fruit of of a plant originatthe names of ing in France France under under the names of ing in in India, India, known known also also in France since *ilorgrna melongena and and morelle. morelle. ItIthas has been been cultivated cultivated in in France since In the U.S.A' it is century. seventeenth the of beginning the the beginning of the seventeenth century. In the U.S.A. it is called called eggplant. eggplant.· most used in There There ire are many many varieties varieties of of this this plant. plant. The The most used in vegetable and cookery long purple, purple, which which is is used used as as aa vegetable and cookery is is the the long are: the Bar' as as aa girnish. garnish. Among Among other other edible edible varieties varieties are: the Bargiant New purple aubergine,the round aubergine;the bentaie bentane aubergine; the round purple aubergine, the giant New York York aubergine, aubergine, and and the the round round Valencia Valencia aubergine. aubergine. for cootMethods Methods of ofpreparation. preparation. There There are are many many recipes recipes for cookgreatly. ing and the the initial initial preparation preparation varies varies greatly. ing aubergines, aubergines, and oven or in the baked stewed, to be is vegetable When this When this vegetable is to be stewed, baked in the oyen or make its fried, fried, it it must must be be steeped steeped in in salt salt for for 30 30 minutes minutes to to make its excess excess water water ooze ooze out. out. The The aubergines aubergines are are then then thoroughly thoroughly dried and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated in in the the recipes. recipes. dried and or in butter Various Various uses. uses. Aubergines, Aubergines, cut cut in in dice dice and and fried fried in butter or eggs (sur le oil, oil, can can be be used used as as a a garnish garrush for for the the following: following: eggs (sur le omelette); in an an omelette); plat, scrambled, poached, plat, scrambled, poached, fried, fried, or or cooked cooked in noisettes; ot noisettes; cutlets or fish meunibre; meunière; lamb lamb or or mutton mutton chops, chops, cutlets fish (see CHICKEN)' cocotte en or fried chicken tournedosiand tournedos; and chicken fried or en cocotte (see CHICKEN). can grilled, aubergines aubergines can fried or or grilled, lengthways, fried half lengthways, Sliced in Sliced in half fish. fillets of of fish. poached eggs, or fillets eggs' or of poached arrangement of in the be used be used in the arrangement be grilled, they can be they can or grilled, fried or and fried slices and in thick thick slices cut in Peeled. cut Peeled, tournedos noisettes, escalopes, for a foundation as used used as a foundation for escalopes, noisettes, tournedos pieces of meat. of meat. small pieces and other other small and Cut aubergines. Cut firm aubergines. Peel 22 firm h crème crbme -- Peel Aubergines ài la Aubergines steep in salt for (+ inch) and steep thick, and inch) thick, cm. Ct slices t] cm. round slices in round them in them in salt for pan or or saut6 pan in aa sauté in butter butter in simmer in and simmer Dry, and minutes. Dry, 30 minutes. 30 pan. frying pan. heavy frying heavy sance (} pint, Cream sauce pint,3 cup) Cream ltdl' add I! Ulfore serving, serving, add fuit before Just dl. (i 1 cup) auberthe auberdamage the not to to damage care not (see SAUCE). taking care Stir, taking SAUCE). Stir, (see dish. vegetable dish. in aa vegetable gines. Arrange Arrange in gines. Boil cream- Boil (+ pint, pint, It 1| cups) cups) cream. dl. (t with 33 dl. pan juice with the panjuice Dilute the Dilute (2 oz', 50 g.g. (2 add 50 and add heat, and the heat, from the remove from hali remove by half, down by down oz., aubergines. pour over the aubergines. over the and pour Strain and fresh butter. butter. Strain cup) fresh t* cup) aubergines the aubergines Cut the FRITEs -- Cut AUBERcINEs FRITES aubergines. AUBERGINES friea aubergines. Fried pan plunge into deep pan into aadeep and plunge flour, and with flour, dredge with slices, dredge thin slices, in thin in onaa arrange on and arrange salt,and fine salt, with fine season with Drain, season oil. Drain, sizzling oil. of sizzling of napkin. napkin. into cutinto also be becut canalso deep-frying can for deep-frying intended for Aubergines intended Aubergines fan-wise. pieces, or cut fan-wise. orcut square pieces, thick square thick lengthwise inin aubergineslengthwise gratin -- Cut theaubergines Cut the au gratin Aubergines au Aubergines dish, leave ininaadish, and leave incisions and fewshallow shallow incisions Mike aa few half. Make half. hotoil. oil. fryininsizzling sizzlinghot Dry, then thenfry with salt. salt.Dry, thickly with sprinkling thickly sprinkling pulpwithout without outthe thepulp scoopout carefully scoop spoon carefully andwith witha Drain,and Drain, a spoon an addtotoititan pulp,and andadd thepulp, Chop skin. Ch outsideskin. theoutside damaging the damaging op the (q.v.)mixture andaatablespoon tablespoon mixtureand duxelles(q.v.) quantity of ofduxelles equal quantity equal parsley. ofchopped chopped parsley. of putthem them andput mixture,and withthis thismixture, skinswith aubergineskins ile aubergine Fill the Fill finely withfinely Sprinklewith dish.Sprinkle fireproofdish. oiledfireproof oroiled buttered or intoaabuttered into meltedbutter butteroror addmelted toasted,add freshor ortoasted, gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fresh grated thetop. toP. brown the andbrown ofoil, oil,and fewdrops dropsof aafew (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) Demi'glace(see pipea aborder borderofofDemi-glace Cooked,pipe Whencooked, When aubergines. theaubergines. around the around aubergines, Halveaubergines, gratinà i lalacatalane catalane- - Halve augratin Auberginesau Aubergines egg hard-boiledegg with1Ihard-boiled mixititwith andmix pulp,chchop thepulp, scoopout outthe scoop op it,it,and o-nign choppedonion tablespoonofofchopped Adda atablespoon finely.Add upfinely. choppedup chopped finely tablespoonofoffinely oil,a atablespoon friedininoil, lightlyfried hasbeen beenIightly whiifihas which garlic. parsleyand andgarlic. choppedparsley somechopped gratedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,sorne grated above. cookingasasabove. Finishcooking Finish Halveaubergines, aubergines,asas gratinà il'italienne I'italienne- -Halve Auberginesauaugratin Aubergines quantityofof pulpwith withananequal equalquantity choppedpulp mixthe tfechopped andmix above,and above, garlic.Finish cookFinishcookparsleyand andgarlic. choppedparsley littlechopped anda alittle risottoand risotto ingasasabove. above. ing Methodasas languedocienne- -Method gratinà i lalalanguedocienne Auberginesauaugratin Aubergines meat' sausagemeaL withsausage halveswith auberginehalves theaubergine fillingthe above,filling above, above. cookingasasabove. Finishcooking Finish

and slivers slivers of oftruffies. truffies. Coat Coat in in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and allow a\low to to cool. cool. Dip Dip thern them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and and rollinto intocylindrical cylindrical shape. shape. roll andarrange arrangeon onaanapkin napkingarnished garnished Deep-fryininsizzling sizzlingfat fatand Deep-fry withfried fried parsley. parsley.Serve Servewith withPirigueux Périgueuxsauce sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). with Attereaux of of oysters oysters Monselet.Monselet. ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX o'suitnns D'HUÎTRES Attereaux MoNsELET MONSELET -- Poach Poach and and drain drain oysters. oysters. Thread Thread them them on on attereaux, together together with with cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms cut cut in in slices, slices, attereaux, and thick thick slices slices of oftrufles. truffies. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe and for Attereaux Attereaux of ofbrains, brains, using using Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) for based on on fish fish stock stock boiled boiled down down to to afumet afumet (q.v.). (q.v.). based of pineapple pineapple (dessert). (ilessert). ATTEREAUx ATTEREAUX D'ANANAS D'ANANAS -Attereaux of Attereaux Thread pieces pieces of of pineapple pineapple on on the the attereaux. attereaux. Dip Dip them them in in aa Thread crème frite frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried Fried custurA custard) and and breadbreadcrime crumbs. Fry Fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat, fat, drain, drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle crumbs. with fine fine sugar. sugar. with Apricot sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Serve with with Apricot Serve Attereaux of of salnon salmon -- See See SALMON. SALMON. Attereaux Attereaux Pompadour Pompadour (dessert) (dessert) -- Make Make up up the the attereaux attereaux Attereaux by threading threading on slices of of stale stale brioches, brioches, alternating altemating with with by cooked in in syrup syrup and halved apricots which which have have been been cooked halved drained. Dip them them in a crime crème frite (see (see CUSTARD, CUST ARD, Fried drained. custard) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Roll in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and fry custar{ hot fat. Drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. smoking hot in smoking of plum slices of Thread slices Attereaux Victoria Victoria (dessert) (dessert) -- Thread Attereaux of slices of them with slices pudding on the attereaux, alternating them cooking apples which which have been steeped in rum. rum. Dip in egg cooking and Drain, and fat. Drain, and breadcrumbs and fry in smoking hot fat. in smoking and fry and dredge with fine sugar. dredge dipartemenl, where Ard'dche département, AUBENAS -- Small town in the Ardèche the not rival rival the may not truffies they may These, though though they found. These, are found. truffies are flavour of Périgord excellent. P6rigord truffies, are nevertheless excellent. preserves which which are are Marrons glacis are much-prized preserves are much-prized Marrons glacés made at Aubenas. Aubenas.

Varieties aubergines Varietiesofofaubergines 1. 1.Long Barbentane Veryearly earlyBarbentane purple2.2.Very Longpurple

3. 3.Very purple dwarfpurple purple4.4.Very Veryearly earlydwarf roundpurple largeround Verylarge

616l

AUBERGINE AUBERGINE

Aubergines Aubergines Imam Imam Baaldi Baaldi (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier)

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AUK

i

added to the the aubergines aubergines before before rubbing rubbing them them through througb the the added to sieve sievewill willgive givethe Ihepur6e puréeaamore more substantial substantial consistency, consistency, and and will will make make ititwhiter. wruler . Peel the auberAubergine salad. sALADE SALADE D'AUBERcINEs D'AUBERGINES -- Peel the auberAubergine salad. gines, 10 stand stand in in aa dish dish with with gines, cut eut into into thin Ihin slices, slices, and and leave leave to salt. la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold Sauces), Sauces), sail. Dry, Dry, season season dil Ia and and add add chopped chopped chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. ,l/ote. NOle. This Th.is salad salad can can also also be be prepared prepared with with aubergines aubergines in salted which which have have been been cooked cooked in salted water, water, drained drained and and dried. dried. Peel sic.urEns Saut6ed AUBERGINES SAUTÉES -Peel the the Sautéed aubergines. aubergines. AUBERGINES (l]-inch) square pieces. aubergines 4-cm . (I-t-inch) square pieces . aubergines and and cut eut them them into into 4-cm. Leave dish with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, Leave to to stand stand in in aa dish and or other other fat fat over over brisk brisk heat. heal. and saut6 sauté the the pieces pieces in in oil, oil, butter butter or Serve Serve sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. sounrr6rs Prepare the Aubergire soufflés, AUBERcINES AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES -- Prepare the Aubergine souffies. aubergines in the the recipe recipe fot for Aubergines Aubergines au au aubergines as as described described in gratin. gratin. Rub Rub the the scooped-out scooped-out pulp pulp through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add an an (see equal of thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . equal quantity quantity of Bind and aa Bind with with yolks yolks of or egg egg and and season season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and little in whites whites of of liule grated graled nutmeg. nutmeg. At At the the last last moment moment fold fold in egg egg whisked whisked to to aa stiff stift' froth. froth . put into them Fill FiU the the aubergine aubergine skins skins with with the the mixture, mixture, pUI (hem into aa in a moderate cook and dish, fireproof oven for for 8 8 to to 10 10 fireproof dish, and cook in a moderate oven minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. sourrrfns AUBERGnTs hongroise. la i soufr6s Aubergire Aubergine soufflés à la hongroise. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES A À rl LA soNcnolsE HONGROISE - Proceed Proceed as as above, above, adding adding 22 tablespoons lablespoons lightly (3 chopped onion tablespoons) (3 tablespoons) chopped onion lightly fried fried in in butter, bUlter, and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. souFFLEEs parmesarL AUBERGINEs au souff6s Aubergine Aubergine soufflés au parmesan. AUBERGINES SOUFFLÉES (3 tableAU AU rARMESAN PARMESAN - As As above, above, adding adding 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablefilling. the to cheese grated Parmesan spoons) spoons) grated Parmesan cheese to lhe fiJJing.

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Aubergines Aubergioes au au gratin gratin à lala portugaise portugaise - Method Method as as above. above.

Fill Fi)) the the aubergine aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp to to which which

has an equal equal quantity quantity of of chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes has been been added added an lightly in butter, butter, chopped chopped onion, onion, parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic . lightly fried fried in cooking as as above. above. Finishcooking Finish Aubergines reine - Method Melhod as as above. ahove. Fill Fil) the the Auberginesau augratin gratiniàlala reineaubergine an aubergine halves halves with with their their chopped chopped pulp pulp mixed mixed with with an equal equaJ quantity quantity of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken crucken bound bound with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Velouti Velouté s&tce sauce (see (see SAUCE). as above. above . SAUCE). Finish Finish cooking cooking as Aubergines toulousaine- Peel Peel the the aubergines, aubergines, Aubergines au au gratin gratin iIII lata toulousainecut inaa dish dish cut into into thick truck slices, slices, across across or or lengthways, lengthways, and and leave leave in sprinkled pan of of hot hot oil. oil. sprinkled with with salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and toss toss in in aa pan Arrange in layers layers in in aa fireproof fireproof dish dish in in rows, rows, alternating alternating Arrange in with of tomatoes tomatoes cut eut in in half half and and also also with an an equal equal quantity quantity of tossed in in oil. oil. tossed Sprinkle SprinkJe generously generously with witb freshly freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed Pour on aa little littJe oil oil mixed with wilh chopped chopped garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Pour in the the oven. oyen . and brown brown in and This is sometimes somelimes called called aubergines aubergines d ci la ia This dish dish is languedocienne. languedocienne.

Aubergines Aubergioes au gratin ili la la turque turque -- Fill Fill aubergine au bergine halves halves with their chopped pulp quantity of of pulp mixed mixed with with an an equal quantity braised braised chopped mutton, mutton, and rice cooked in in water (taking (taking

in equal equal proportions). proportions). Add Add chopped garlic garlic and parsley, of cayenne. cayenne. Brown the top. top . parsley, and a small pinch of When tomalO sauce round round the When cooked, cooked, pipe pipc a a border horder of tomato au bergines . aubergines. Aubergines Aubergines in in gravy. gravy. AUBERGINEs AUBERGiNES AU AU JUs JUS - Proceed Proceed as as la crème, crime, brut described in the (he recipe recipe given for Aubergines Aubergines d à la but described substitute thickened stock.. substitute truckened veal stock Peel 2 large latge grecque (hors-d'œuvre)Aubergines la grecque Peel 2 Aubergines à la @ors.d'cuwe) cut them in dice or thick truck square pieces. pieces. Throw aubergines; eut prepared as as them, aa few at aa time, them, few at time, into into aa court-bouillon prepared grecque (see (see Ia grecque for Artichokes recipe for in the the recipe described in described Artichokes àd la 12 to for 12 15 to 15 and cook for full boil, and ARTICHOKE). Bring to aa full serve as and serve tenine with the liquor, and minutes.. Transfer into aa terrine minutes an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'auvre. an Peel the the auberaubercnnrfss-- Peel AUBERGINEs GRILLÉES Grilled aubergines. AUBERGINES GriJled dish in aa dish stand in gines, eut slices, and and leave to stand cut them them ioto into thick slices, grill with oil, oil, and and grill Dry them, salt. Dry them, brush with with salt. well sprink/ed sprinkled wilh well gentle heat. heat. on aa genùe on in aa the aubergines aubergines in arrange the vegetable, arrange serving as as aa vegetable, For serving For tablespoons few tablcspoons with aa few and dab dab with dish, and shape on on aa dish, crown shape crown (see BUTIER). BUTTER). butter (see d'hitel buller Maitre d'hôtel of of MaÎ1re good (Turkish cookery) cookery) --'Take Baaldi (Turkish Imam Baaldi Aubergines Imam 'Take good withlength withentire length their entire them along along their slit them sound aubergines, aubergines, slil sound pulp. Prepare Prepare aa of the the pulp. some of peeling, and out some scoop out and scoop out peeling, out and onions and pulp, tomatoes, tomatoes, onions aubergine pu/p, composed of of aubergine stuffing composed stuffing with aubergines with fill the the aubergines and fill in oil, oil, and mixture in Fry trus this mixture currants. Fry currants. pour in in sufficienl sufficient and pour dish and an earthenwarc earthenware dish Put them them ioto into an it. Put il. bay and aa bay little thyme thyme and Add aa liltle completely. Add cover them them completely. oil oil to to coyer are aubergines are the aubergines low heat heat until until the on low hours on for 33 hours leaf. Cook Cook for leaf. quite soft. cool. Leave to to cool. soft. Leave quite prepare possible, If possi cold. veryco served very beserved should be ish should Id . If ble, prepare 'This 'This ddish be to be aubergines to theaubergines to allow allow the required, to day before before itit isis required, itit the the day oil.' in the the oil.' wellsaturated saturated in weil priest has fainted'.. has fainted' 'the priest means 'the Turkish means Baaldi inin Turkish Imam Baaldi Imam way prepared inin this this way when aubergines aubergines prepared goes that legend goes that when The legend The by somovcd (ptiest), he moved by hewas wasso imam (priest), certain imam to aacertain were offered offered to were sheer from sheer hefainted fainted from that he dish Ihat thedish of the fragrant odour odour of the rragrant the joy. gastronomical joy. gaslronomical Peel (garnish). PURÉE runrnDD'AUBERGINBs pur6e (garnish). Aubergine purée ' AUBERGINES - Peel Aubergine with dishwith leave ininaadish and leave slices, them ininslices cutIhem aubergines, cul iheaubergines, the , and little withaalittle casserolewith covered casserole andcook cook ininaacovered Drythem, them,and salt.Dry sail. pur6e,add add Heat trus thispurée, sieve. Heat Rubthrough throughaasieve. andsalt. salt.Rub butterand butter andserve. serve. butter,and tablespoons) butter. 22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Bichamel sauce ofthick thickBéchamel fewlablespoons tablespoonsof AAfew these lhese ingredients ingredients

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of of the the lowgr This département dipartement is AUDE AUDE -- This is formed formed of low,er part part of always been has good cookery where region a Languedoc, Languedoc, a region where good cookery has always been (which wiJJ found will be specialities (wh.ich the specialities Among the held in in respect. respect. Among be found held cassoulet' well-known cassou is the the well-known order) is alphabetical in their their al phabetical order) leI. in of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary cassoulet of the cassolilet in Aude Aude -- the kinds in are ttwo There are There wo kinds the cassoulet cassoulet is the Another is Carcassonne. Another of Carcassonne. cassoulet of and the the cassoulet and Toulouse. of Toulouse. of introduced white beans, beans, introduced historians, white reliable historians, to reliable According to According long Narbonensis long in Gallia Gallia Narbonensis were cultivated cultivated in Arabs, were the Arahs, by the by The Arabs taught America. from were brought before beans before beans were brought from America. The Arabs taught with white white beans beans prepare aa mutton mutton ragoût ragofit with to prepare the inhabitants inhabitants to the (See present-day cassoulet. cassoulet. (See of the the present-day ancestor of which isis the the ancestor wh.ich the which the dish,, of of which of trus this dish details of further details for further CASSOULET for CASSOULET is understandably region Proud.) regioD is understandably proud.) production of of lIins vins ordinaires and large production has aa large Wines -- Aude Aude has Wines ordinaires and (See LANGUEDOC.) vins d'appellation d' appellation dd'origine. vins 'origine. (See LANGUEDOC.) de comtesse de to lala comtesse household to of the the housebold Head of AUDIGER -- Head AUDIGER of aa author of the author Audiger i5is the to Colbert. Colbert. Audiger later to and later Soissons, and Soissons, The title isis The the translate.d translated tille which the 1692 of of wh..ich published in in 1692 book published book Noblea of Governing Art and the Residence Wett-brdered WeJJ-Ordered Residence and the Art of GOllerning a NobleCountry and Country Town and Gentlemen's Other Gentlemen House and and Other man's man 's House 's Town Domestics inin and Domestics Staff and of Senior Senior Staff Duties of the DUlies and the Residences, and Residences. lord's of aa lord's composition of the composition describes the In ilit hehe describes General. ln General. 'household'. 'household'. pois petits pois across petits came across he came 1660, he Italy Travelling inin Ital Travelling y inin 1660, preand prcwith them them and crate with He filled filled aacraIe growing inin January January. growing . He of sight of at the thesight marvelled at who marvelled court, who French court, to the the French iented itit to sented pe tits pois became so was how That vegetable. an early such such an early vegetable. That was how petits pois became so to made ta effort isis made every effort today every even today whyeven and why fashionable, and rash.ionable, produce them asearly earlyasaspossible. them as Possible. produce The iiI/le little (wk auk family. Alcidae family ofthe the Alcidae ALeuE - - Sea Seabirds birds of AUK. ALQUE . The AUX. grown. ILS Itswings wingsare are (16jnches) fully groWfl. inches) when whenfully 38cm. cm.(/6 measures 38 measures from birdtotoescape escapefrom the bird enables the whichcnables flying, which forflying, equipped for equipped pursuitof hunting il.it. fishermenhunting offishermen thepursuit the frequentlytoto regions,ititisisfrequently Arctic regions, originatingininArctic Although originating Although

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AUNIS AND ANDSAINTONGE SAINTONGE AUNIS be seen autumn and andwinter winteron onthe thecoasts coastsof of England, England, be seen ininautumn Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, Scotland, Belgium and France. It migrates as far as Spain, P-ortugal, Italy and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on Portugal, ltaly and Algeria. Not infrequently it breeds on the French ocean coasts. The Icelanders call it alka (aalga) the French oceancoasts. The Icelanders cali it alka (aalga) or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly vahied or klumba. The flesh and fat of these birds are greatly valued by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they by fishermen, who snare them among the rocks where they nest. nest.

of which are areused usedfor fordistilling purposes (see distilling purposes (seeCOGNAC). COGNAC). ofwhich Thevineyard vineyardproprietors proprietors of of this this region regionmake make aaliqueur liqueur The winefor for themselves themselves and andtheir their friends, friends, white white or orsometimes wine someiimes red, locally locally ca calledpineau. pouring local made by bypouring local brandy red, lied pineau. ItItisismade brandy on the the must must du during fermentation, which which isis thus thusarrested, arrested. on ring fermentation, preservingail all the the fruit. fruit. preserving

AURILLAC -- Town Town inin the the Auvergne Auvergne region, region, which which isis the AURILLAC the centre of production of of the theproduction of Cantal Cantal cheese. cheese. centre

AttNIS AND SAINTONGE -- The The region resion of of Aunis Aunis has has AUNIS AND SAINTONGE fertile, well-cultivated lands, lands, where where crops itops ofof cereals, cereals, fertile, well-cultivated

AURIOL -- Name Name for for mackerel mackerel in Marseille. in Marseille: AURIOL AUROCHS -- Wild Wildox, ox, ox plains. This ox of of the the plains. This animal, animal, which which AUROCHS past used in the the past used to to be be found found inin the the forests forests of of tempera temperate te in Europe, isis now now only only found, found, and and in in very very small small numbers, numbers, in in Europe, Lithuania, in in the the Carpathians Carpathians and and in in the the Caucasus. Caucasus. Lithuania, The meat meat of of aurochs aurochs isis prepared prepared as as ordinary ordinaiy beef. beef. The (A AURORE L') Name principally to applied principally to aa sauce, sauce, the AURORE (À L') -- Name applied the recipe for for which which isis given given in in the the section section on on sauces; sauces; and and to to ail all recipe the dishes dishes cooked cooked with with this this sauce. sauce. the This name name isis also given to also given to aa dish dish of of stuffed stuffed hard-boiled hard-boiled This (see EGGS, eggs (see EGGS, Aurora Aurora eggs). eggs). eggs The name name also also applies applies to to aa cheese cheese made made in in Normandy. Normandy. The

vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. Animals vegetables and fruit of the first quality are grown. AnimaIs raised for food produce meat of excellent quality, including of excellent quality, including raised for food produce meat some very good lamb; and from the neighbouring sea and and from the neighbouring sea and sorne very good lamb; lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to lakes of the region come fish and shellfish acceptable to gastronomes. gastronomes. Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Among the specialities are the oysters of Marennes, La Tremblade, and Chdteau d'Ol6ron; they are white, or Tremblade, and Château d'Oléron; they are white, or stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, stained with the fine green weed from the fattening ponds, and are considered the best in the world. The pirtuguese and are considered the best in the world. The Portuguese oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. oysters which are bred here have a specially delicate flavour. Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cl6ron and Other shellfish include mussels and clams of Cléron and La Rochelle, cockles cockles which which are are found found in in the the Marennes Marennes La Rochelle, fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally fattening ponds, prawns (salicoques) which are locally called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. called chevrettes, and shrimps, which are called boucs. La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in La Rochelle, after Boulogne, is the greatest fishing port in France, and among fish found in the region aiJ hake, France, and among fish found in the region are hake, coalfish (U.S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immediatelv coalfish (U .S. pollock), and sole, which are sold immedia tely after being caught. Fresh Fresh sardines, sardines, known known as as Royan Rovan after being caught. sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey sardines, enjoy a wide reputation, and there are also grey mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch)-. In mullet (called meuils locally) and brill (U.S. sea perch). In the Charente and Sdvre Niortaise and their tributaries there and Sèvre Niortaise and their tributaries there the Charente are eels which are delicious stewed or m matelote. are eels which are delicious stewed or en matelote. Fruit and vegetables vegetables are particularly good. The garden Fruit and are particularly good. The garden peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at peas are sweet and tender; it is this variety that is canned at Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Bordeaux and La Roche-sur-Yon. Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oldron Broad beans from Marennes and the island of Oléron are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red are considered the best in the world. Kidney beans and red beans (mogettes') are excellent. beans (mogettes) are excellent. and _ Orchard Orchard and vegetable vegetable garden garden produce produce include include Saintonge Saintonge (nectarines); brugnons brugnons (nectarines); the the apples apples of of Saint-porchaire Saint-Porchaire (reinettes grrses and clochard)which are exported to England; (reinettes grises and clochard) which are exported to England; white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cipes and oyster white Chasselas grapes; mushrooms such as cèpes and oyster mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du mushrooms; Saintonge oranges; brunettes; pleurote du panicot. panicot. The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest The game of this region is of excellent quality. The finest butter, Which can compare with the best Normandy butter, butter, ~hich can compare with the best Nonnandy butter, is made in Aunis. is made in Aunis. Culinary Mouclade (mussels (mussels dà la la crdme); crème); Culinary specialities specialities -- Mouclade mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with mussel soup; roast mussels (cooked on cinders); oysters with sausages; razor-Jish sozp (solen); razor-fish stuffed with sausages; razor-fish soup (solen); razor-fish stuffed with breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic breadcrumbs which have been mixed with chopped garlic and parsley and browned on top; scallops auxfiies hirbes; and parsley and browned on top; scallops aux fines herbes; ragofrt of lavagnons; small cattlefish fried in deep fat; deepragoût of lavagnons; small cut tlefish fried in deep fat; deepcrameou (crabs fried fried crameou (crabs that that have have shed shed their their shellsf; shells); hake hake soip soup (made with the fish head); chaudrie (fish soup rather liki (made with the fish head); chaudrée (fish soup rather Iike the Breton cotriade); roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. the Breton co triade) ; roast eel; fried eels du Mignon. Special meat and poultry dishes include chickmfricassde Special meat and poultry dishes include chickenfricassée with with onions onions and and potatoes; potatoes; Aunis Aunis civet, civet, which which is is made made of of pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; vanous charcuterie; rillettes pig's fry; a salmi of sea birds; various charcuterie; rillettes (potted pork); pktds and terrines; btack and white puddings. (potted pork); pâtés and terrines; black and white puddings. Other Other special special dishes dishes of of this this region region include include roast roast garlic, garlic, cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds d Ia cooked on hot cinders, which is eaten with butter; curds à la chardonnette; jonchie (a kind of cream cheese made with chardonnette; jonchée (a kind of cream cheese made with ewe's or goat's milk); vafious fouaces (scones) and coireaux ewe's or goat's milk); variousfouaces (scones) and coireaux (made of maize flour); la fouie (oil seed cake); gLteau (made of maize flour); la fouée (oil seed cake); gâteau d'Assemblie; Easter gdteau; Taillebourg brioches ; grape d'Assemblée; Easter gâteau; Taillebourg brioches; grape jelly; Pons jel/y; Ponsrusks; rusks;Frangipane Frangipane tart. tart. Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most Wines - Saintonge produces mediocre table wines, most

AUSTRALIA. AUSTRALIE eusrnaur -- Australian Australian vineyards vineyards and AUSTRALIA. and wines wines (see WINE). WINE). (see AUSTRIA. AUTRICHE AUTRTcHE -- Austrian Austrian wine (see wine and and cuisine cuisine (see AUSTRIA. WINE, INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKER COOKERY). WINE, Y).

Papin Papin marmite marmite or or autoclave autoclave (Conservatoire (Conservatoire des Arts et et Mdtiers. Métiers. Phot. Phot. des Arts JJ Boyer) Boyer)

AUTOCLAVE AUTOCLAVE (Pressure (Pressure cooker) cooker) -- High-pressure High-pressure steam steam vessel. vessel. A A sort sort of ofboiler, boiler, with with very very strong strong walls, walls, which which can can be be closed c10sed hermetically. hermetically. ItIt isis provided provided with with aa safety safety valve, valve, and and isis capable capable of of raising raising the the temperature temperature of of the the water water above above

boiling boiling point. point. No No living living bacteria bacteria can can survive survive the the temperature temperature of of 120"C. 120°C. (248'F.) of time. time. (248°F.) in in aa liquid liquid medium medium over over aa certain certain period period of Thus Thus the the autoclave autoclaveisis used used ininthe thecanning canningindustry industryto to sterilise sterilise food food products products contained contained in in hermetically hermetically sealed sealed cans. cans. (See (See PRESERVATTON PRESER VA TI ON OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) This This instrument instrument was was invented invented by by Denis Denis Papin, Papin, and and the the original original Papin Papin marmite marmite has has become become popular popular once once again again in in the ofthe thepressure pressurecooker, cooker, which, which, by bybringing bringingfood food to to the form form of aa temperature temperature often often reaching reaching 140'C. 140°C. (284'F.),'makes (284°F.), makes itit possible possibletotocook cookininaavery veryshort shorttime timedishes disheswhich whichwould wouldtake take much much longer longer cooked cooked by by the theordinary ordinarymethod. method. The Theresults, results,though thoughacceptable acceptableininaagood goodmany manycases, cases,are, are, however, however, far far from from being being as as good good as as those those obtained obtained by by the the traditional traditional methods. methods. The The decomposition decomposition of ofcertain certain foods, foods, 64 64

AUVERGNE meat meat in in particular, particular, is is taken taken much much further further than than in ordinary ordinary cooking. cooking. Furthermore, Furthermore, vitamins vitamins can can be be entirely entirely destroyed.

AUTO-INTOXICATION, AUTO-INTOXICATION, DIGESTM DIGESTIVE - This This form form of intoxication, intoxication, due due to to healthy healthy foods foods ingested ingested in in excessive excessive quantity quantity and and subjected subjected to to bacterial bacterial putrefaction putrefaction in in the intestines, not be be confused confused with with alimentary alimentary intoxicaintestines, should shouJd not tion due to to ingestion ingestion of of toxic toxic foods foods or or foods foods which which have have gone gone tion due bad. bad.

AUTRICHIENNE AUTRICHIENNE (A (À L) V) - This This expression is is applied applied to various various preparations preparations characterised, as in the case of those those à la hongroise, hongroise, by being seasoned with paprika, or called d Hungarian Hungarian pepper, pepper, and and sometimes sometimes by the addition addition of of onion, onion, lightly fried, of of fennel fenne! or sour cream. cream. lightly porringer from Auvergne from old old Auvergne and porringer dredger, ewer ewer and Pewter sugar sugar dredger, Pewter

(apricots, peaches, peaches, fruit (apricots, choice dessert fruit of Limagne produce choice important the important pears, cherries) supply the and also also supply cherries) and apples, pears, apples, Auvergne of Clermont-Ferrand. Clermont-Ferrand. Auvergne fruit industry of crystallised fruit are weIl well known. known. chestnuts are and chestnuts walnuts and raised which which pasture lands, are raised lands, oxen oxen are In the mountainous pasture the mountainous In greatly valued, valued, Mutton isis greatly give meat flavour. Mutton of excellent excellent flavour. meat of give and VassiviEres and in Vassivières particularly that sheep raised raised in from sheep that from particularly Chaudesaigues. Chaudesaigues. its delicacy of of its known for for the the delicacy pork of of Auvergne isis known The pork The which can can of charcuterie cftarcuterie which kinds of is made into into many kinds This is flesh. This cities. and other other big big cities. Paris and shops of of Paris be found found in in the the shops be quality of of that that poultry of not have have the the quality region may may not of the the region The poultry The game of good, as of as is is the the game nevertheless good, Bresse, but but itit isis nevertheless raised at at Bresse, raised ground and winged. and winged. both ground Auvergne, both Auvergne, pike perch, tench, tench, pike Carp, perch, fish isis excellent. excellent. Carp, The freshwater freshwater fish The provide ingreingreand provide lakes, and rivers and and lakes, in the the rivers eels abound abound in and eels and the found inin the The trout trout found matelotes. The for succulent succulent matelotes. dients for dients are delicious delicious Marsenac rivers rivers are Murols and and Marsenac Massiac, Aurillac, Aurillac, Murols Massiac, Brioude flesh of of Brioude The flesh prepared au meuniire. The or àd lala meunière. bleu or au bleu prepared salmon. of Loire Loire salmon. with that that of comparable with salmon isis comparable salmon particularly morels, morels, mushrooms, particularly succulent mushrooms, In In the the spring, spring, succulent Auvergne. of Auvergne. and forests forests of woods and gathered in in the the woods are gathered are of this this specialities of The culinary culinary specialities Culinary specialities specialities -- The Culinary potie, There isis the the succulent succulent potée, very numerous. numerous. There region are are not not very region cabwith cabpork as ingredient, with basic ingredient, as aa basic salt pork made of of salt which which isis made potatoes as as acacand potatoes leeks and onions, leeks carrots, turnips, turnips, onions, bage, bage, carrots, The soupe soupe garlic as local touch. touch.The asaa local with garlic and with companiments, companiments, and pot-au-feu, in which aacabbage cabbage in which kind of of rustic rustic pot-au-feu, au au farci farci isis aa kind chopped with chopped flavoured with and flavoured meat and sausage meat stuffed with sausage stuffed with parsley isis cooked. garlic and cooked. garlic and parsiey small largeand and small hams; large are delicious: delicious: hams; The The charcuterie charcuterie are greaves (blood sausage); puddings (blood sausage); greaves black puddings country sausages; black country sausages; pork (q.v.),made kindof of pork ofaa kind madeof (cracklings) ;and (cracklings); andfricandeau fricandeau (q.v.), pork. piece of saltpork. pdti cooked ofsalt pâté thin piece cooked in in aa thin pie made made viande,aapie are tourte tourte àdlalaviande, Among local specialities specialities are Among local pork puffpastry filled with with pork andfilled with puff in pastry and lined with shallow dish, dish, lined inaashallow of made of omelettemade anomelette brayaude, an and omelette brayaude, veal forcemeat; forcemeat; omelette and veal ham potatoes and and diced diced lelean diced potatoes beaten an ham with diced mixedwith beatenegg egg mixed pan, isisfilled with filled with fryingpan, the frying which, over ininthe turned over which, before beforeititisistumed which deSaint-Flour, Saint-Flour, which grated cream;friands de grated cheese and thick thickcream;friands cheese and charcuterie; sellingcharcuterie; shopsselling are Parisianshops theParisian found ininthe arelike like those those found garlic,braised withgarlic, braised studdedwith leg which isisstudded lambbrayaude, brayaude,which legof oflamb wine, whitewine, aromatics inin white with andaromatics vegetables and usual vegetables with the the usual andsometimes sometimes with onions, onions, and and red beans, beans, with with red andserved served with shallow cookedininaashallow with de , potatoes cooked truffade,potatoes cabbage; truffa with braised braised cabbage; garlic,and and- withgarlic, pan flavoured with panwith ofbacon, bacon,fiavoured leanrashers rashers of with lean cheese; Tomme cheese; dicedTomme added fresh diced minute - - fresh last minute added atatthe the last dish vin,aadish pork; coq pickled park; coqau anvin, potatoes Muratpickled potatoeswith with bacon; bacon;Murat Puy-de-D6me isis for thePuy-de-Dôme innsatatthe thetop topofofthe ofthe theinns for which whichone oneof well Saint-Flour. tripouxofofSaint-Flour. wellknown; known; the thetripoux

Auvergne (French TouriSI ( F r e n c h Governmenl o u r is t Office) c e)

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AUVERGNE -- There of this this cookery of that the the cookery There isis aa belief belief that region potie, made soup or made of cabbage soup or potée, of of cabbage region consists consists entirely entirely of fresh pork. fresh and and salt salt pork. In dish. Each Auvergnat dish. Each pofte isis not specifically Auvergnat not aa specifically In fact, fact, potée region potie. has its its potée. France, has Ile de de France, including the the Ile of France, France, including region of There potde, aa wonderful dish; the the wonderful dish; There isis the Bourguignonne potée, the Bourguignonne Alsatian as isis that of Cantal; Cantal; po tie which, that of too, isis succulent, succulent,.as Alsatian potée which, too, the potie, which and the the very savoury, savoury, and which isis very Languedoc potée, the Languedoc Parisian potée, which figures daily fare of of the the of fare on the the bills bills of daily on Parisianpalie,whichfigures capital's poties manyother other potées There are, are, besides, besides, many capital's restaurants. restaurants. There in alphafound in in their their alphawhich will will be be found for which in France, France, recipes recipes for betical freshor or are made made of of fresh them are SOUP. Ali All of of them betical order, order, under under SOUP. salt ions, carrots, on onions, pork as with cabbage, cabbage, carrots, element, with salt pork as aa basic basic element, leeks potatoes completing the dish. dish. leeks and and potatoes completing the Auvergne picturesque (for these charmingly picturesque Velay (for these two two charmingly Auvergne and and Velay regions gastronomes offering gastronomes are rural rural areas areas offering regions are are inseparable) inseparable) are wholesome, 'with aastraightstraightcountry cooking cooking'with wholesome, unpretentious unpretentious country forward, (to quote quote Curnonsky). Curnonsky). forward, honest honest flavour' flavour' (to Besides peasant soups like soups like are peasant soup, there there are Besides the the cabbage cabbage soup, mourtayrol, (beef,ham, pot-au-feu (beef, ham, great Auvergnat Auvergnat pot-au-feu mourtayrol, the the great chicken, (chestnut soup); and the cheese the cheese cousinat(chestnut soup);and chicken, saffron); saffron); cousinat soup soup of of Cantal. Cantal. Excellent The orchards orchards grown in in Auvergne. Auvergne. The Excellent vegetabies vegetables are are grown 65 65

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A VOCADO PEAR. AVOCADO PEAR. AVOCAT The fruit AvocAr -- The fruit of of the the avocado avocado tree, tree. native of of tropical tropical and and sub-tropical sub-tropical America. America. The The kernel, kernel, in in the middle middle of pulp, isis about of the the pulp, about the size of the size of aa walnut. walnut. The The fiesh flesh of of the the avocado avocado is prized by is much much prized by the the Americans. Americans. It It isis thick, thick, buttery, buttery, spreads spreads like like butter, and isis butter, and nutty in in taste. The The avocado pear is avocado pear is slightly slightly acid. acid. It It isis eaten au naturel eaten au naturel or seasoned UCE) or seasoned with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE) or stuffed stuffed with crab salado salad. FFor or sorne some years now chefs have have been been testing testing their ingenuity in in the the creation of new new recipes for (avocado soup, for this this fruit fruit (avocado soup, creamed creamed avocados, avocados, avocados avocados as as dessert, dessert, etc.). etc.). The The best best variety of avocado pear pear cornes comes from Brazi!. Brazil.

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the fish fish dishes, Among the je/lied eel is dishes, Ussel jellied is notable, notable, and game dishes, among the the game dishes, Brioude thrush thrush cutlets. cutlets. The The pasta products products of Clermont-Ferrand Clennont-Ferrand are are excellent. Sweet Sweet dishes and confectionery fiagnarde.- millards and confectionery include flagnarde; millards de de cerise; Clermont-Ferrand angelica; Clermont-Ferrand angelica; Thiers Thiers crunchies; crunchies; Riom ichaudi; Murat échaudé; Murat cornets; cornets; Saint-Flour bltises bêtises and farces; and farces; Aurillac Aurillac chestnut tart buckwheat pancakes. pancakes. tart and and buckwheat Cheeses Cheeses of Auvergne include the famous Cantal Cantal cheese; cheese; the the Bleu Bleu d'Auvergne, d'Auvergne, the the small small Riommois cheeses; goat's cheese. milk cheese. Wines Wines -- The vineyards of of this region {o <;lo not produce any great red sorne very good good table wines. wines. red or white wines, but some The wines wines of Auvergne Auvergne are are classed classed among among the the V.D.Q.S. They appellations Côtes d'Auvergne and and Vins They are are the the appellations C6tes d'Auvergne d'Auvergne, from from the Gamay Gamay and and white and and black black Pinot grapes. Chanturgue known of of the the local vineyards. Chanturgue is the best known

Avoeet

AVOCET_ AvocErro AVOCETIE- A genus of wading wading birds. birds. It It is is found found AVOCET. - genus of

AUVERGNAT AUVERGNAT -- Variety of of vine, native native of of Auvergne Auvergne and cultivated cultivated in the country around Orl6ans. Orléans. It is best known because because of of the the poet poet Boileau, Boileau, and does does indeed indeed produce produce wine which, as he heady and and of of a strong strong colour. As far he says, is heady back back as as the the days days of of Louis Louis XIV, XIV, inn-keepers inn-keepers were were in the the habit as the the ofmixing with lighter lighter and and less-coloured less-coloured wines, such as of mixing itit with lignage, lignage, to to obtain obtain pale pale or ros6 rosé wines, wines, which which were were sold sold under under the of Ermitage, Ennitage, and which which are are now now known known under under difdifthe name name of ferent ferent names. names.

in countries countries with cold or temperate temperate climates, particularly in climates, particularly cold or of Europe Europe and America. America. along the coasts coasts of along The flesh fiesh ofthe of the avocet, although although quite quite delicate, delicate, savours savours of of The consists almost almost entirely entirely of of fresh fresh the food it lives on, which consists wonns and aquatic aquatic insects. insects. fish, worms European avocet avocet is is about about the the size size ofa of a pigeon, and and is is The European Avocet shooting shooting is is pracpracrecognisable by its pied plumage. Avocet Poitou. tised in Poitou. AH the the culinary culinary methods methods All

given for for teal teal (q.v.) (q.v.) can can be be given

applied to avocet. avocet. applied

AVICE AVICE -- French French pastry-cook, pastry-cook, contemporary contemporary of of Antonin Antonin Car€me. Carême. In In his his books, books, Car6me Carême speaks speaks of of him him with great great

Village in Champagne, Champagne, cradle cradle of of Champagne Champagne wine wine A y -- Village AY became aa sparkling sparkling wine). wine). (which was was famous even even before before itit became (which Leon X, Charles Quint, Quint, Henry Henry VIII VIII and and Frangois François I1 had had Leon

respect and gives gives him him first first place place among among the the pastry-cooks pastry-cooks of of respect and that brilliant brilliant epoch. epoch. that

66 66

AZYMOUS AZYMOUS

It isis used for comcomin taste. taste. It used for sweet in acid and and slightly sweet colour, col our, acid liqueur. and aa much-prized liqueur. confectionery and potes, confectiooery as weil well as as throughout in Spain, Spain, as Italy and and in In Provence, Provence, in Italy In jam, which very for jam, which isis aa very used for Algeria, itit isis used of Algeria, whole of the whole the popular preserve. popular

officers permanently stationed at Ay Ay to look look after after the the precious officers permanently stationed vineyard and supplies of of aod ensure that the court had regular supplies the wine. Henri willingly accepted the title of 'Sire of Ay'. Henri IV williogly

AYAPANA Plant originating originating in in South South America. America. Its A Y AP ANA - Plaot leaves, exuding aa pleasant aroma, are are used as infusions, leaves, exuding pleasaot aroma, used as aperients and soporifics. aperieots in the the same way way as as tea, tea, but but as as the the The infusion is made in smell ayapana is is very very strong, strong, 12 12 or 13 leaves leaves are or 13 smell of of the the ayapana enough for aa six-cup teapot. Ayapana blends blends perfectly perfectly with egg yolks, and with cream.

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for reonet, rennet, which is is made from from AZtror LZY -- French term term for AZI or AZY is added. added. amount of of vinegar is certain amount whey to which aa certain word AzyME -- Etymologically, Etymologically, the the word AZYMOUS (Bread). @read). AZYME azymous meaos means unleavened unleavened.. azymous unleavened bread; of making their uoleavened The Jews had two ways of by usiog using ordinary ordinary or by the flour, flour, or either by previously grilling the l| teateasalted, allowing allowing li wann water and and salted, flour kneaded with warm fiour (l lb.) paste was pe}450 g. (1 was rolled rolled lb.) flour. flour. The The paste spoons of salt salt pet spoons 450 g. placed on metal inch) and and placed on aa metal of 1I cm. cm. (t out to to aa thickness thickness of out $ inch) and baked in was then baked in then pricked and sheet. The rolled-out pastry was sheet. aa slow oven. grilled oatmeal flour isis from grilled oatmeal fiour Unleavened bread made from bread made Unleavened in the the same same manner. prepared in

AZAROLE -- Fruit of the the Neapolitan Fruit of Neapolitan medlar; medlar; common

namb of a shrub known rs 01 azarolus WhlCh whrch IS oI lne tne name of koown as Crataegus azarolus same species It isis also species as also called épine as hawthorn. ipine d'Espagne hawthorn . .Tt in France. F.rance. This shrub is similar to aa service tree.

The Neapolitan medlar is indigenous to the whole of the Mediterranean area,, aod and it it isis also also cultivatcd cultivated in in the the Paris Mediterranean area yellowish in region. is oval, oval, reddish reddish or or yellowish region. The medlar medlar berry berry is

Azarole

67 67

BABA -- Cake Cake made made of leavened dough, of leavened dough, mixed mixed with with raisins raisins BABA and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking. and steeped in kirsch or rum after cooking. The invention invention ofthis of this cake cake is is said said to to be be due due to King Stanislas to King Stanislas The Leczinski. Sorne Some authors authors state state that gastronome did that the the royal royal gastronome did Leczinski. not invent invent the the baba baba we know, but we know, but found found aa new new way way of of eating eating not kugelhopf, which which had had been been made made in (Lvov) since in Lemberg Lemberg (Lvov) since aa kugelhopf, 1609. He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one He sprinkled the cake with rum and set it alight as one 1609. plum pudding. pudding. does aa plum does The kugelhopf, done in in this great success this way, way, had had aa great success at at the the The kugelhopj, done court of of Lorraine, Lorraine, where where it it was was served served accompanied accompanied by by aa court sweetened and and spiced spiced Malaga Malaga wine. King Stanislas wine. King Stanislas was was an an sweetened avid reader reader of of the Thousand and the Thousand and One One Nights, Nights, and and named named his his avid favourite sweet sweet after after one one of of its favourite its heroes. heroes, Ali Ali Baba. Baba. The cake cake was introduced in was introduced at the The in Paris Paris at the beginning beginning of of the the nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, *ho had seen it nineteenth century by a pastry-cook, Sthorer, who had seen it in Lun6ville, court ef He fjf Poland Poland was was transferred. transferred. He in Lunéville, where where the the court made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil, made it a speciality of his establishment in rue Montorgueil, and called and called it it simply simply 'baba'. 'baba'. Sthorer Sthorer made made the the babas babas in in advance, advance, moistening moistening them them with with a a brush brush dipped dipped in in wine wine just just before selling before selling them. them. Later, Later, the the process process was was to to immerse immerse them them in in rum-flavoured rum-flavoured syrup. syrup. In calledfribourg,, In the the 1840s, 1840s, aa cake cake of of similar similar nature, nature, called jribourg, was was made At the the same same time time a a Parisian Parisian maifte maître made at at Bordeaux. Bordeaux. At phtissier, omitting raisins pâtissier, omitting raisins from from the the dough, dough, gave gave the the cake cake another another shape, shape, and and steeping steeping itit in in aa syrup syrup of of his his own own creation, creation, produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin. produced the brillat-savarin, which later became savarin. Says Says Lacam: Lacam: 'He 'He gave gave to to his his friend friend Bourbonneux, Bourbonneux, with with whom at Chiboust's, Chiboust's, the the idea idea of of using using the the same same whom he he worked worked at dough dough baked baked in in a a hexagonal hexagonal mould, mould, and and creating creating aa cake cake which of the the heroes heroes of ofla la Dame Dame which was was called ca lied gorenflot, gorenflot, after after one one of de lfontsoreau.' de Montsoreau.'

Large baba baba Large mould mould (Larousse) (Larousse)

Baba

Recipe Recipe used used by by the the pastry-cooks pastry-cooks for for babas: babas: Sift Sift 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4] 4t cups) cups) flour flour into into aa large large wooden wooden bowl, bowl, make teaspoons make aa well weil in in the the middle, middle, put put into into this this well well l|It teaspoons salt salt and and 20 20 g. g. G (t oz., oz., Il cake) cake) yeast yeast which which has has been been dissolved dissolved in (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) warm waffi1 milk. milk. Add Add 77 whole whole in I1dl. dl. (6 eggs, eggs, and and work work the the paste paste with with the the hands hands to to mix mix well. weil. DistriDistribute bute 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.,l] oz., I!cups) cups) butter, butter, which which has has been been softened, softened, in in small small pieces pieces over over the the paste. pas te. Cover, Cover, and and keep keep the the paste paste in in aa wann wann place place until until the the yeast yeast has has risen risen to to double double its its original original size. size.

Add Add 25 25 g. g. (l(1 o2.,2 oz., 2tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and knead knead the the paste thatititabsorbs absorbsthe thebutter. butter.Add Add 50 50g.g. (2(2oz., oz., scant seant pastewell weilso so that I~cup) cup)currants currantsand and 50 50g.g. (2 (2oz., oz., scant seantI~cup) cup)goiden goldensultanas. sultanas.

Rum babas and mould (Larousse\ Rum babas and mould (Larousse)

68 68

BADIAN BADIAN ANISE ANISE

~ix

weil.Put Putthe tbepaste pasteinto intowell-buttered well-butteredbaba babamoulds, moulds,filling filling Mix well. uptotoone-third one-thirdofoftheir theirheight. height. up 1 Bake Bake inin aa hot hot oven oyen and and allow allow to to cool cool before before turning turning the the babas out out of ofthe the moulds. moulds. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with rum rum or or kirsch. kirsch. babas Syrup for for babas. babas. snop SIROP AÀ BABA BABA -- Add Add 2* 2t dl. dl. (scant (scant ]t pint, pin t, Syrq generous cup) cup) rum rum to to l|1t litres litres (2| (21 pints, pints, 3* 3! pints) pints) syrup syrup generous tooked to .to 104"C. 104°C. (219"F.). (219°F.). A A small small quantity quantity of of coriander coriander isis iooked ~ometimes used used to to flavour ftavour the the syrup' syrup. sometimes 1

BABIROUSSA -- This This mammal, mammal, allied allied to to the tbe wild wild boar, boar, BABIROUSSA Idiffers from from the the latter latter in in the the curious curious development development of of the the differs 'canines. Its Its general general appearance appearance and and squat squat shape shape give give itit aa canines. :certain similarity similarity to to the the rhinoceros. rhinoceros. Like Like the the latter, latter, itit lives lives certain in the the swampy swampy forests forests of of the the Malay Malay Archipelago, Arcbipelago, and and isis in ifairly easily easily tamed. tamed. Its 1ts flesh, ftesh, which which is is prepared prepared in in the the same same fairly Iway as as that that of ofwild boar (q'v.), (q.v.), isis much much ptaed. prized. wild boar way ,BACCHANALIA. BAccHANALES BACCHANALES - Festivals Festivals celebrated celebrated in BACCHANALIA. Ihonour of Bacchus. Bacchus. These These festivals festivals began began in in Egypt, Egypt, spread spread honour of Ito Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and and then th en to to Greece Greece and Italy. Italy. to iBACCHANTE Priestess, votary votary of of Bacchus. Bacchus. BACCHANTE -- Priestess,

Bacchus and the the infa)JI infagt Bacchus Leucothea and The The nyrnph nymph Leucothea

pork in in mean pork used to to mean Once used rurrlE -- Once MAIcRE FUMÉ LARD MAIGRE BACON. LARD pork. particularly salt salt pork. general, particularly general, in Segretain Segretain read in (bacon) had killed,'we had been been killed,' 'A big hog (bacon) we read we of Cockayne Cockayne we fable of in the the fable And in tale. And Moine's medieval tale. read: pats si aa non non Coquaigne Coquaigne Si paiS Si gaigne. dart, plus ii gaigne. Qui Qui plus ii dort, d'aloses et d'aloses saumons et bars, de de saumons De bars, De encloses; maisons encloses; toutes les les maisons Sont toutes Sont sont d'esturgeon; d'esturgeon; chevron ii sont Si chevron Si de bacons bacons couvertures de Les couvertures Les de saucisses. saucisses. sont de lates sont Et les les lates Et

Bacchus on aa barrel Bacchus on ofwine. Faïence. Faience. (Larousse) (Larousse)

1

CockaYne, land of of Cockayne, land, the the land In this this land, In gain by it. by it. would one wou more one the more one sleeps, sleeps, the more one The more The Id gain and shad shad With bass, salmon and bass, salmon With enclosed; are enclosed; houses are All the the houses AIl sturgeon; made of of sturgeon; are made rafters are Their rafters Their bacon of bacon The roof roof of The aresausages. sausages. slates are And And the theslates

BACCHUS the of the Dionysus of god of the Dionysus wine' the of wiile, Roman god BACCHUS -- Roman Greeks. in in Thebes Thebes in legend, in to legend, according to born, according He was was born, Greeks. He Boeotia. was one one mother' was his mother, Semele, bis father. Semele, was his father. Boeotia. Jupiter Jupiter washis of ters of Hermione. and Hermione. Cadmus and daughters of Cadmus of the the daugh When of fiery bolts bolts of (struck down by the the fiery down by lay dead dead (struck When Semele Simele lay her shed had not had not perished have peri would have too, would Bacchus, too, lover), Bacchus, her lover), Jupiter from young fruit of love love from fruit of the young draw out out the Vulcan draw made Vulcan Jupiter made Semele's of daughterof thedaughter Macris, the feet. Macris, his feet. lying atat his body, lying Seinele's body, Aristaeus, put Sabazius put andSabazius her arms arms and into her child into the child received the Aristaeus, received him his of his monthsof nine months the nine complete the to complete god's thigh thigh to him inin the the god's gestation. gestation. - His the nursed the Antoncienursed and Antonoe Agaveand Inno, Agave His three aunts, Inno, threeaunts, child maternal with maternaI him with for him years, and cared for andcared hisearly early years, child inin rus devotion. passed Bacchus passed Nymphs,Bacchus of the theNymphs, handsof the hands From the devotion. From into initiated Musesinitiated TheMuses Silenus.The andSilenus. Muses, and ofthe theMuses, into those thoseof him Silenus dance;Silenus anddance; harmony and of harmony knowledgeof into the himinto theknowledge taught wine. ofwine. making of andthe themaking himviniculture viniculture and taught him The than ratherthan herorather Bacchus aahero makes Bacchus hisbirth birth makes ofhis natureof Thenature aagod; we andwe godand mortal,and andaamortal, ofaagod love-child of god;but heisisthe thelove-child buthe cannot He word.He theword. pagan sense ofthe senseof thepagan hisdivinity divinityininthe cannotdeny deny rus isisthe corn-bearing goddessof ofcom-bearing wasthe thegoddess Cereswas wine,asasCeres lordofofwine, thelord and werethe the theywere thatthey thought that ancients thought Theancients agriculture.The andagriculture. sacred which liquid,wruch andthe theliquid, solidand presiding over overthe thesolid couplepresiding sacredcouple sus tain and life. animatelife. andanimate sustain

meals France totomeals applied inin France once applied Adjectiveonce BACONIQUE BACOMQUE -- Adjective prepared pork, fresh orsalt, salt, prepared freshor of pork, exclusively of which consisted consistedexclusively which ways. inin various various ways.

Badiananise anise Badian

same thesame treeofofthe Fruitofofa atree BADIANE- -Fruit BADIAN AI\ISE.BADIANE BADIAI\ ANISE. nameofof thename underthe knownunder betterknown name anise.ItItisisbetter nametasting tastingofofanise. usedasasa a anise.Itltisisused Chineseanise. calledChinese star alsocalled andisisalso staranise, anise,and

6969

BAGRATION

BAGRATION

carminative in the form (50 to 60 g. per litre, infusion(50 canninative in the fom ofofananinfusion to 60 g. per litre, 2.to2l oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in tfie prepara2 to 2-!- oz. per scant quart, generous quart) and in the preparation of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that tion of certain liqueurs. Its taste is more pungent than that of green anise, and the essence to which this-fruit owes its of green anise, and the essence to which this fruit owes its aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning aroma is toxic if taken in heavy doses. Cases of poisoning as a result of taking too strong an infusion have been known. as a result oftaking too strong an infusion have been known. In India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the ln India, China and Japan, this plant is burnt to scent the houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mouth, and it is houses; it is eaten after a meal to freshen the mou th, and it is also mixed with tea and liqueurs. also mixed with tea and liqueurs. Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an Badian anise, which was brought into Europe by an English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century,ls used in English sailor at the end of the sixteenth century, is used in the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian the manufacture of Bordeaux anisette. The seeds of badian anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In some anise are used in confectionery and pastry-making. In sorne northern countries it is used for flavouring bread. northern countries it is used for flavouring bread. BAGRATION- Thena name ofaaRussian Russian general general who whofought fought BAGRATION - The me of against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagraion against Napoleon. It is given to various dishes: Bagration soup, Bagration salad (see SOUp, SALAD). soup, Bagration salad (see SOUP, SALAD). BAIN-DE-PBD @ootbath)-- Colloquial Colloquial French French for for an an BAIN-DE-PIED (Footbath) excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills excess of liquid, principally coffee, if it overflows and spills from the cup cup into into the the saucer. saucer. from the

pompe.ii fresco Roman baker, baker,after AARoman afteraaPompeii fresco

In France, France, the the bakers' bakers' corporation corporation was In wasaaconfraternity, confraternity, or or religious society, society, under under the religious the name name of of talemeliers. talemeliers. Their Their statutes can can be be traced traced back statutes back to to the the time time of of Saint Saint Louis, Louis, and and the oldest oldest complete complete set the set of of regulations regulations in in existence existence isis that that preserved for for us us by by Estienne preserved Estienne Boileau Boileau at at the the begjnning beginning of of the the Registres des (Register of des métiers mitiers (Regjster Registres of Trades), Trades), collected collected about about 1260. 1260. The first first clause clause decrees: 'No-one can The decrees: 'No-one can become become aa talemelier talemelier in the the suburbs suburbs of in of Paris Paris who who does does not not buy buy the the right right to to trade trade from the the King'. King'. One of of their privileges privileges was One was the the buying buying and and reselling reselling of pigs of pigs paylng for for tbis right, because without paying this right, because they they needed needed pigs pigs to to eat eat the bran which was not yet, in in those those days, days, separated separated from fiom the the flour. To To become aa mas fiour. ter baker, master baker, and and to to have have the the right right to to practise his his trade, aa baker had had to to serve serve aa four-year apprenapprenticeship, and to buy the the master's master's certificate certificate from from the king or or the king from from the king's pantler. From From the time he received this, this, aa right of inspection of inspection wasestablished. was established. Bread ofinsufficient of insufficient weight was was confiscated and and distributed to poor, penalties penalties for to the the poor, for the the violation violation of of the law being being left to the discretion discretion of the head of the head of the community. community. Appeals Appeals were were brought before the grand pantler, pantler, whose the grand whose judgement judgement was final. final. The penalty was was simple: The penalty simple: aa fine fine of of 66 deniers (pennies) (pennies) for any violation of the law.

Bain-marie Bain-marie

BAIN-MARIE and confectionery, this is is aa BAIN-MARIE - In In cookery cookery and confectionery, this vessel in which sauces and and other vessel half-filled half-filled with with hot hot water, water, in which sauces delicate delicate dishes dishes can can be be kept kept hot hot until until required. required.

-

Cooking such as Cooking in in a a bain-marie bain-marie - Ceriain Certain dishes, dishes, such scrambled scrambled eggs, eggs, butter butter sauces, sauces, custard custard creams, creams, mousses, .oily, disintegrate meat meat and and fish fish loaves, loaves, which which may may turn turn 'oily' or or disintegrate if if they they are are cooked cooked on on direct direct heat, heat, can can be be cooked cooked in their own utensils, hot water. water. In U.S.A. a utensils, which which are are lowered lowered into into the the hot utensil used for for this this purpose. purpose. utensil called called the the double-boiler double-boiler isis used In In France, France, the the name name bain-marie bain-marie isis also also applied applied to to a utensil utensil for for sterilising sterilising babies' babies' bottles. boules.

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BAISER BAISER -- In In some sorne regions regions of of France, France, this this isis tle the name name given given to to two two small small meringues meringues joined joined together together with with thick thick creEur cream or or other other sweet sweet mixture. mixture. BAJET A species of oyster commonly 1 BAJET -- A species of oyster commonly found found on on the the coast coast of of west west Africa. Africa. The The shell shell is is flat, fiat, round, round, and and thicker thicker than than that that of of ordinary ordinary oysters. oysters. The The flesh fiesh is is edible edible but but not not verv very delicate. deJicate. BAKERY. BAKERY. BoULANGERTe BOULANGERIE -- Shop Shop where where bread bread baked baked by by the the baker baker himself himselfisis sold. sold. 1 The Thefirst first bakers bakers inin Italy Italy were were those those the the Romans Romans brought brought from from Greece, Greece, following following their their campaign campaign against against phiiip, Philip, Hannibal's Hannibal's ally. ally. Later, Later,together togetherwith withthe theireedilaves, freed slaves, bakeii bakers formed formed an an organisation organisation which which enjoyed enjoyed· considerable considerable privileges. privileges.

1 I[

il

Ancient bakers' bakers' arms arms Ancient

1

70 70

BAKERY 'Grain 'Grain merchants merchants shall shaH not not make make their their purchases purchases except except outside outside the the ten-league ten-Ieague (40-km., (40-km., 25-mile) 25-mile) limit limit around around Paris. Paris. grain not buy pastry-cooks shall Bakers of small smaU loaves loaves and and pastry-cooks shall not buy grain Bakers of before before l1 Il o'clock o'clock in in summer summer and and noon noon in in winter; winter; large-loaf large-loaf bakers not buy buy grain grain before before 22 o'clock, o'clock, to to enable enable the the bakers shall shaU not put needs needs of of the the bourgeois bourgeois to to be he supplied supplied first. first. Bakers Bakers shall shall put scales and keep loaves, on their their their distinctive distinctive trade-mark trade-mark on their loaves, and keep scales and and weights weights in in their their shops, shops, on on pain pain of of being being deprived deprived of of licence licence or or even even more more severe severe punishment.' punishment.' They They were were likewise likewise forbidden forbidden to to store store away away unsold unsold bread; bread : still unsold at a they they had had to to dispose dispose of of it it at a reduced reduced price priee if if still unsold within of baking. baking. within three three days days of and appearance, and 1650, sifted In In 1650, sifted flour fiour began began to to make make its its appearance, bran at aa time, quantity to enabled enab!ed aa great great quantity to be be transported transported at time, bran onwards time onwards From that flour. From of the no no longer longer being being part part of the fiour. that time in the reign of of 1666, in the reign pigs. In In 1666, to raise allowed to bakers bakers were were not not allowed rai se pigs. Fournier, by Fournier, recorded by case was curious case Louis Louis XIV, XIV, aa curious was recorded (Molibre and bread and the the bread mollet (Molière &t pain et le le procis Moliire Molière et procès du pain mollet (A man Poquelin, aa called Poquelin, man called Revue Frangaise. the Revue roll), roll), in in the Française. (A conwhich concase, which in the the case, involved in was involved Molibre, was of Molière, relative of relative The yeast had illness). The caused illness). had caused brewers' yeast claim that that brewers' cerned aa claim cemed yeast in was in bread bread was brewet's yeast of brewer's use of the use that the declared that verdict declared verdict forbidden. therefore forbidden. was therefore and was to health, and detrimental to detrimental of number of the number century the eighteenth century the eighteenth of the By the beginning of and 500 and between 500 which between 15, to to which to 15, had risen risen to bread markets had bread suburbs; aa outlying suburbs; and the the outlying city and the city from the came from bakers came 600 bakers 600 and SaintSaintCorbeil and Gonesse, Corbeil from Gonesse, 1,000 came came from further 1,000 further but markets, but main markets, in the the main They traded traded in Germain-en-Laye. They Germain-en-Laye. holdwithout holdplied their trade without their trade who plied bakers who many bakel"s were many there were there bakers These unauthorised unauthorised bakers certificates. These bakers' certificates. ing master master bakers' ing SaintSaint-Jean-de-Latran, SaintTemple, Saint-Jean-de-Latran, the Temple, lived around around the lived the They enjoyed enjoyed the and Quinze-Vingts. la Châtre Ch0re and Denis, la Quinze-Vingts. They Denis, except people from outside, except from outside, as the city as the people in the the city rights in same rights same privileges conferred conferred had ail all the the privileges who had master bakers, bakers, who for the the master for licence. by the the licence. by

Philip the the Fair, Fair, who who introduced introdueed reforms reforms into into this this legislegisPhilip lation, decreed decreed that that the the fines fines should should be be discretionary discretionary and and lation, proportionate to to the the offence. offence. He He appointed appointed the the Provost Provost of of proportionate Paris to to be be the the bakers' bakers' judge, judge, and, and, at at the the same same time, time, conconParis of bakery bakery was was siderably reduced reduced their their privileges. privileges. The The trade trade of siderably to be be free; free; he he forbade forbade the the buying buying of of grain grain in in the the markets markets to for resale, resale, and and permitted permitted private priva te persons persons to to buy buy in in the the for same way way as as wholesale wholesale merchants. merchants . same In 1366, 1366, Charles Charles VV ordered ordered that that the the bakers, bakers, both both in in Paris Paris In and outside, outside, should should bring bring their their bread bread to to the the market market on on marmarand of the the same same flour Bour and and ket days. days . They They must must all ail make make bread bread of ket content, the the same same weight, weight, and and sell sell itit at at the the same same price; price; and content, of loaf, !oaf, one one which which cost cost 44 dmiers deniers they should should make make two two sizes sizes of they and one one which which cost cost 22 deniers, deniers, the the price priee being being determined determined by by and the weight. weîgbt. the In 1372, 1372, the the king king decided decided that that the the price price of of bread bread in Paris Paris In should be be fixed fixed in in accordance accordanee with the the varying price priee of should grain. When When grain grain cost cost 8 sous, sous, white white bread bread or or pain pain dc de chailli grain. costing 22 deniers deniers a loaf loaf should weigh 251 oz. when baked' baked. iosting The bourgeoas bourgeois loaf loaf at the same price should weigh weigh 37| 371 oz. oz. when baked. baked. Inferior quality pain de brode, costing 1I dmier, denier, qwlity pain when should weigh 36 36 oz. baked. baked. should the beginning beginning of the the fourteenth fourteenth century century Charles VI At the decreed: decreed: the bakers bakers may may not buy or cause cause to be bought either 'That the been Bour on on the Paris markets if if the market has not been grain or flour open at least one one hour. open or aa miller or no baker baker can be aa miller time be same time at the the same can at 'That no measurer of grain. bakers may grain except through the except through not buy buy grain may not 'That the the bakers intermediary sworn-in measurer.' intermediary of aa sworn-in In interminable an interminable of an VI, the the rigours of of Charles Charles VI, In the the reign of war, of bread bread sale of prices of cereals, cereals, the the sale high prices and higb war, the the scarcity scarcity and against many of of forced many causes forced other causes and other uncertain payment and against uncertain the ovens. their ovens. destroy their and to to destroy trade and their trade up their bakers to to give up the bakers A reto rethem to ordering them in 1415 1415 ordering issued in was issued decree was written decree A written build pain of banishment. of banisbment. on pain delay, on without delay, ovens without build the the ovens Further In to time. time. In time to from time issued from were issued regulations were Further regulations 1439, one being being measures, one new measures, introduced new VII introduced Charles VII 1439, Charles that In markets. In posted up in the up in the markets. be posted should he price of of bread bread should the priee that the addition, The noon.' The grain before before noon.' not buy buy grain shall not bakers shall addition, 'The 'The bakers bourgeois this and this bread, and own bread, their own baking their were baking classes were bourgeois classes regulation buying, bulk buying, from bulk bakers from preventing the the bakers at preventing aimed at regulation aimed and monoPolY. their monopoly. maintaining their and maintaining There thebakers', bakers', guilds, including including the All guilds, decrees. Ail were other other decrees. There were were 1569,aa In 1569, insignia. In and insignia. banners and own banners have their their own were to to have curious wear: weretoto wear: bakers were what bakers laid down down what regulation laid curious regulation shirt, forwereforThey were cap' They hose, aa cap. trunk hose, without trunk drawers without shirt, drawers bidden closing official closing and official Sundays and go out, on Sundays except on out, except to go bidden to days, monopolies, set up upmonopolies, gather together', 'to gather together', totoset forbidden 'to days, forbidden or weapons. orother other weapons. swordsor daggers, swords weardaggers, or to to wear The histhehismilestone ininthe marksaa milestone century marks The seventeenth seventeentheentury tory improvements inin Therewere wereimprovements trade.There bakery trade. Parisbakery theParis of the tory of manufacture, regubran,aareguwithout bran, flour without permission totosell sellfiour manufacture, permission lation new yeast,and thenew andthe brewer'syeast, useof ofbrewer's theuse forbidding the lation forbidding pain (bread roll) roll)proeess. pain mollet mollet (bread Process. The baked Notre-Dame baked ofNotre-Dame Cathedral of ofthe theCathedral The Chapter Chapter of bread vogue hadaavogue whichhad paindedechapitre, chapitre,which called pain wascalled which was breadwhich before breadofofQueen favouritebread thefavourite bythe Queen superseded by wassuperseded before ititwas Marie brewer's prepared with withbrewer's breadprepared salted bread Medici:aasalted MariededeMedici: yeast . Then knownasas breadknown camebread Thencame painàdlalareine reine. calledpain yeastand andcalled pains Paindede mllk.Pain withmilk. kneadedwith waskneaded whichwas painsàdlalaMontauron, Montauron,which Gentilly pain mollet, was therewas mollet,there Besidespaiz withbutter. butter.Besides wasmade madewith Gentillywas pain (pumpkin citrouille(pumpkin painà dlalacitrouille (palebread) andpain painblême bread)and biAme(pale !oaves), small loaves. bakersofofsmallloaves. thebakers loaves),made madeby bythe Richelieu and measuresand out-of-datemeasures manyout-of-date withmany awaywith didaway Richelieudid introduced forcetoto whichisisininforce legislationwhich reforms,legislation boldreforms, introducedbold this down: Helaid laiddown: day.He thisday.

I'Arsenal) Bibliothequedede (Miniature[rom fromthethe Boulanger-cabaretier Bibliothèque l'Arsenal) Boulanger-cabaretier(Miniature

71

BALACHAN

Bakers at at work, work, after after aa 1ithogra lithograph of 1830 lg30 Bakers ph of

jurisdiction of Louis XIV XIV abolished abolished the the jurisdiction of the the royal royal pantler. Louis Artisans and and suburban suburban merchants merchants were were now now on on the the same same Artisans footing as as those those of of the the town, town, and qualified master and newly newly qualified master footing bakers enabled to practise on to practise on the the same same conditions conditions as as bakers were were enabled their established colleagues paying the colleagues by by paying the same same taxes. taxes. The The their established principal aim of of this this concession concession was was no no doubt doubt due due to to the the principal aim fact years of after severa] several years great poverty poverty among of great among the that aCter fact that people, Treasury was and the the State State was was able was depleted, depleted, and people, the the Treasury to taxation by by imposing on suburban bakers bakers as to increase increasetaxation imposing it it on well city. in the the city. weil as as on on those those in There additional laws compelling compelling each baker to There followed followed additionallaws bring (Abb6 Jaubert, bring aa certain certain quantity quantity of of bread bread to market market (Abbé Dictionnaire great Dictionnaire Universel Universel des des Arts Arts et et Mdtiers, Métiers, 1773) 1773) - a a great hardship, hardship, as as they they had had to to get get rid rid of of all ail the bread bread after a c"itain certain hour, hour, and and so so must must sell seIJ any surplus very cheaply. cheaply. At At this this period, period, the the latter latter part part of of the eighteenth century, century, apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted five five years, years, followed followed by by four four years working bakers' guild. guild. At At the the end of the nine years working for for the the bakers' the apprentice, unless unless he he was was the the master master baker's baker's son. son, had had the apprentice, to paying for a certificate, certificate, to present present his his chdd'euvre, chef-d'œuvre, and on paying might might at at last last practise practise as as aa master master baker. baker. Thus Thus matters matters concontinued French Revolution, Revolution, but but even even after after 1789 1789 the the tinued until until the the French breadmaking breadmaking industry industry remained remained under under strict strict control. ItIt was was only that itit became became free. free. only in in 1863 1863 that Baker's Baker's assistant. assistant. MrrRoN MITRON -- The The term term comes cornes from from the the paper paper head-dress head-dress or or mitre mitre which which bakers bakers wore wore at at work. work. Bakery Bakery equipment equipment -- This This changed changed very very slowly. slowly. Kneading Kneading was was done done by by hand hand for for many many centuries centuries in in aa huge huge wooden wooden trough, trough, longer longer than than itit was was wide, wide, which which stood stood on on four four legs. legs. It It had had aa flat flat cover cover called called the the tour. tour . Modern Modern bakeries bakeries have have mechanibal mechanical metal metal kneading kneading machines. machines. The The ovens ovens remained remained as as they they are are shown shown in in Diderot's Diderot's Encylopidie En cylopédie from from the the days days of of the the Romans Romans until until the the ninenineteenth teenth century: century :aa block block of ofmasonry masonry with with the the actual actual bakingbakingoven oven inside, inside, square square in in shape, shape, the the inside inside edges edges rounded rounded off, off, surmounted surmounted by by aa dome dome called called the the chapelle. chapelle. The The walls walls were were atatleast least50 50cm. cm. (20 (20inches) inches) thick thick and and the the oven oven was was heated heated by by wood. wood. Coal, Coal, burnt burnt in in aa special special fireplace fireplace below below the the opening opening

Bakers' ovens, Bakers' 's Encyclopédie ovens, reproduced reproduced from from Diderot Diderct's Encyclopidie

the oven, replaced wood of the wood;; then gas, oil then came came gas, oil heating, heating, and and electricity electricity.. Today, Today, pipes pipes conta.ining containing aa liquid liquid which which isis first first ber circulate heated in in aa coaJ-fired coal-fired cham chamber circulate round round the the oven; oven; aa system that has the the advantage advantage of being being clean clean,, uniform and and economical. In France, breadmaking breadmaking is stiJl still mainly mainly carried on on in smallsmallscale establishments, producing producing aa few hundred kg. kg. ofbread scale of bread a day, but the the trend trend is is towards mass production in a day, but towards mass in large large factories, with with skilled factories, skilled technical technical organisation organisation and and highly highly developed mechanisation. mechanisation . developed involved in in transforming tran sforming flour flour into into bread The work involved bread is is under the entry BREAD. BREAD. described under

Seasoning much much used used in Siam. Siam. In In Tonkin Tonkin it it BALACHAN -- Seasoning is known known as as nukemum. nukemum . It is is mad6 madé of of small small shrimps, shrimps, pounded pounded is with salt salt into into thick thick brine, brine, which which is is dried dried in in the the sun. sun. Balachan, Balachan, with is said, said, stimulates stimulates the the appetite appetite and and fortifies fortifies the.stomach. the.stomach. itit is BALAINE or or BALEINE BALEINE -- Name Name of of aa restaurant-keeper restaurant-keeper who who BALAINE ran Ie le Rocher Rocher de de Cancale Cancale in in rue rue Montorgueil. Montorgueil. Grimod Grimod ran de la la Reynibre, Reynière, who who gave gave parties parties at at this this restaurant, restaurant, spoke spoke de very highly highly of of him. him. Car€me Carême considered considered him him to to be be aa secbndsecondvery rate caterer. caterer. (See (See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS.) DAYS.) rate BALANUS -- Fruit Fruit of of the the balanire, balanite, aa shrub shrub indigenous indigenous to to BALANUS upper Egypt. Egypt. It It is is about about the the size size of of aa hazelnut, hazelnut, and and when when upper an oil oil used used in in the the perfumery perfumery industry. industry. When When pressed yields yields an pressed

fresh and and very very ripe, ripe, the the fruit fruit isis edible edible and and known known as as the the desert desert fresh date; its its flavour flavour isis enhanced enhanced ififserved served along along with with other other foods. foods. date; 72 72

BALLOTTINE BALLOTTINE BALAOU -- French French name na me for for aa small small fish, fish, similar similar to to the the BALAOU abounds in in Martinique. Martinique. Its Its flesh flesh is is delicate delicate sardine, which which abounds sardine,

the stock glaze itit with glaze with cold cold aspic aspic jelly jelly made made from from the stock in in which which it it was was cooked, cooked, clarified cJarified and and reinforced reinforced with with gelatine, gelatine, if if

and easily easily digestible. digestible. and ofcooking cooking sardines sardines can can be be applied applied to to balaou. balaou. Ali methods methods of All

nec€ssary. necessary.

jelly. Arrange Arrange on on aa serving serving dish dish and and garnish garnish with with chopped chopped jelly.

BALLOTTINE-- Galantine Galan tine normally nonnally served served as as aa hot hot entie; entrée; BALLOTTINE can also also be be served served cold. cold. The The ballottine ballottine isis made made of of aa piece piece of of itit can meat, fowl, fowl, game game or or fish fish which which is is boned, boned, stuffed, stuffed, and and rolled rolled meat, into the the shape shape of ofaa bundle. bundle. The The term term ballottine ballottine should strictly strictly into but not not stuffedstuffed. It It is, is, apply only only to to meat, meat, boned boned and and rolled, rolled, but apply however, also also applied applied to to dishes dishes which which are are actually actually galantines. galantines. hbwever, of lamb lamb ià la la boulanglre. boulangère. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Ballottine of Ballottine À m LA nourANGiRE BOULANGÈRE -- Prepare Prepare llke like Shoulder of of lamb lamb d à la A boulangère (see (see LAMB). LAMB). boulangire of lamb lamb Aà la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. n,trrorrnsn BALLOTTINE o'lcxnlu D'AGNEAU A À Ballottine of Ballottine LA BouRcnotsn BOURGEOISE -- Prepare Prepare like Ballottine of of lamb h à la bonne bonne LA femme (see below), below), replacing replacing the garnish indicated indicated in in that femme recipe by by garnish garnish dà la bourgeoise bourgeoise (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) which which recipe should be be cooked with the meat. meat. braised ià la bonne femme. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE BaJlottine of lamb braised Ballottine Stuffaa boned D'AGNEAU BRAISfE BRAISÉE A À LA BoNNE BONNE FEMMS FEMME - Stuff boned shoulder D'AGNEAU chopped onion lamb with with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with with chopped of lamb chopped and chopped which has been lightly fried in butter or lard, and parsley. parsley. string, and with string, into aa ballottine, tie tie with Roll the shoulder into cocotte (deep the oyen. an earthenware cocotte oven. Put into an brown in the in butter, and fry dish). Slice Slice and onions in 12 medium-sized medium-sized onions fry 12 dish). has been (a oz.) lean bacon which has g. (4 together with about 100 g. (* pint, scant cup) dry dry blanched and diced. Moisten Moisten with 2 dl. (t blanched bouquet white wine been boiled down aa little. little . Add Ldd aa bouquet has been wine which has just to cover to coyer garni (q.v.) and meat stock just and enough thickened meat the ballottine. Bring to the boil. to the minutes. 45 minutes. CoYer for 45 hot oyen oven for and put it in aa hot Cover the the cocotte and lower Add cook at at aa lower and cook balls and g. (generous 1I lb.) potato balls 500 g. Add 500 put heat remove string, string, put Drain the ballottine, remove the ballottine, 35 minutes. Drain heat for 35 back in serve. and serve. cocotte, and in the the cocotte, ulBallottine garnishes. BALwith varions various garnishes. braised, witb lamb, braised, of lamb, Ballottine of and LOTTINE ballottine and the ballottine Prepare the BRAIsfE -- Prepare D'AGNEAU BRAISÉE LorrINE D'AGNEAU braise in the the as described described in dish, as earthenware dish, in aa deep deep earthenware braise itit in potatoes or preceding or bacon, potatoes adding bacon, without adding preceding recipe, but without recipe, but onions. onions. ove string. When string. remove and rem drain, and cooked, drain, When the the ballottine ballottine isis cooked, Arrange garnish, or or serve serve with aa garnish, dish, surround surround with on aa serving serving dish, Arrange on the ove remove liquor, rem braising !iquor, Boil down down the the braising garnish separately. separately. Boil the garnish the pour itit over the ballottine. ballottine' over the and pour fat, strain, strain, and the surplus surplus fat, (see GARGarnishes GARdish (sec for this this dish suitable for are suitable which are Garnishes which NISHES) bruxelbretonne, bruxelbouquetiire, bretonne, follows: bouquetière, are as as follows: NISHES) are loise, mil anais e, maci do ine, milanaise, chipolata, flamande, lo is e,chipolata, i ar dinidre, macédoine, flamande, jardinière, nivernaise. pilaf, rice, pilaf, noodles, rice, with noodles, may be be served served with dish may The dish nivernaise. The risotto, or with butter butter or dressed with vegetables dressed fresh vegetables with fresh also with risotto, also cream, prepared potatoes prepared glazed vegetables, and potatoes vegetables, and or glazed cream, braised braised or in ways. in various various ways. d, with Ballottine garnishes. BALLOTBALLoTvariorc garnisbes. with varions lamb col col{ of lamb, Ballottine of TINE en the quitecold, cold, ballottine isisquite When the ballottine FRoIDE - - Wh rrNE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU FROIDE pour jelly, and untilset. set' leaveuntil andleave aspicjelly, liquid aspic pour over little liquid over itit aa little Arrange buttered decrusted buttered on aa decrusted or on dish,or on aa serving serving dish, Arrange on croûton. chopped jelly' withchoppedjelly. decorate with and decorate Garnish, and cro0ton. Garnish, All poultry and poultry meatand coldmeat forcold garnishes recommended recommended for All the the garnishes are cold ballottine. ballottine. forcold are suitable suitable for BaUottine L'e' o'acNnluÀALA BALLoTTINE D'AGNEAU lamb inin jelly. of lamb Ballottine of ielly. BALLOTTINE GELÉE lambwith with oflamb shoulder of flattened shoulder andflattened Stuffaaboned boned and crrfB - - Stuff Galantine withaa mixedwith (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEAT) mixed Galantine forcemeat forcemeat (see salpicon (q.v.) composed truffies. hamand andtruffies. pickled tongue, tongue, ham ofpickled composed of salpicon(q.v.) Roll, Cookinin withstring. string.Cook tiewith andtie pieceof ofmuslin, muslin, and no[, wrap wrap ininaapiece jellystock (q.v.). galantine(q.v.). jelly stock asasdescribed forgalantine recipefor therecipe described ininthe Drain againtightly tightlyinin upagain andtie tieititup unwrap,and ballottine,unwrap, Drain the theballottine, aacloth, alsoinin andtying tyingititalso withstring stringand endwith eachend cloth,securing securingeach the and ballottineand press.Unwrap theballottine Unwrapthe underaapress. middle.Cool Coolunder themiddle.

jellY in jelly of lamb in Ballottine oflamb Ballottine

as MouroN -- Proceed Proceed as DE MOUTON BALLoTTINE DE mutton. BALLOTTINE Ballottine of mutton. Ballottine lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of for Ballottine described for described garnishes. BALn,lrpork, braised, various garnishes. with varions braised, witb of pork, Ballottine of Ballottine poRc BRAISÉE pork and and of pork Bone aa shoulder shoulder of BRAIsfE -- Bone DE PORC LorrINE DE LOTTINE braised, ballottine isis braised, When the the ballottine of lamb. lamb. When prepare as Ballottine of as Ballottine prepare jelly, and with one one of of and serve serve with glaze with with jelly, string, glaze remove string, drain, remove drain, (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). meat (see for meat used for garnishes normally normally used the garnishes the pour and pour fat, strain, strain, and remove fat, liquor, remove Boil down down the the braising liquor, Boil ballottine. the ballottine. over the over jetly. BALLOTTINE cnrfn PoRc ÀA LA tr GELÉE DE PORC pork in BALLoTTINE DE in jeUy. of pork Ballottine of Ballottine lamb Ballottine of of lamb prepare as as Ballottine pork and and prepare of pork Bone aa shoulder shoulder of -- Bone for in the recipe for the recipe jetly. Garnish described in as described serve as and serve Garnish and in jelly. in Ballottine of of lamb. larnb. Ballottine boned Take aa boned DE VEAU vEAU -- Take BALLoTTINE DE veal. BALLOTTINE of veaJ. Ballottine of Ballottine (U.S. sirloin sirloin loin (U.S. of loin end of of chump chump end slice of thin sUce or aa thin shoulder or shoulder for recipe for in the the recipe described in proceed as as described and proceed cutlet), and or cutlet), steak or steak lamb. of lamb. Ballottine of Ballottine with served with can be beserved hot or or cold, cold, can either hot veal, either of veal, Ballottine of Ballottine (seeGARGARmeat (see for meat garnishes recommended recommended for one of of the the garnishes one NTSHES). NISHES). various withvarious servedwith sauce' served dark sauce, with dark chicken with of chicken Ballottine of Ballottine Boneaa snuN - - Bone DE POULARDE PouLARDE ÀA BRUN garnishes. BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINE DE garnishes. with aa (see GALANTINE). Stuff itit with GALANTINE). Stuff fowl (see medium-sized fowl medium-sized (see FORCEFORCEpounded Pork Porkforcemeat quenelle of finely pounded of finely quenelle forcemeat(see MEAT). MEAT). previously hasbeen been previously which has cloth which ballottine inin aacloth Boil the the ballottine Boil withstring. string' and tie tie ititwith ouqand wrung out, water and and wrung hotwater soaked soakedinin hot justenough chicken stock stock toto pan with enough chicken with just braisingpan Cook inin aa braising Cook puton andsimmer simmer lid,and onthe the!id, the boil, boil,put Bringtotothe fowl. Bring coyer coverthe the fowl. minutes. for for50 50 minutes. minutes the for10l0minu hotfor keepitithot andkeep ballottineand Drain tes ininthe Drain the theballottine properly.Remove Remove settlesproperly. forcemeatsettles theforcemeat thatthe oyen, toensure ensurethat oven.to and muslin, and through muslin, strainthrough liquor, strain fat braising !iquor, fat from fromthe thebraising pint,scant cup) scantcup) with22dl. dl.(tftpint, Blendwith boil bytwo-thirds. down by boildown two-thirds.Blend finesieve. sieve. throughaafine andstrain strainthrough thickened vealstock, stock,and thickened veal oven,basting basting glazeititininthe theoven, andglaze ballottine and Unwrap theballottine Unwrap the with dish,surround surroundwith gravy.Arrange onaadish, Arrange on with with the thethickened thickenedgravy. gtavy; thegravy; tablespoonsofofthe fewtablespoons pourover garnish, and overititaafew garnish, andpour gravyininaasauce sauceboat. serve boat. thegravy restofofthe servethe therest noodles, recommended:noodles, garnishesare arerecommended: The followinggarnishes Thefollowing Demidoff, bouquetidre,DemidofJ: chipolata,bouquetière, celery, mushroomsororchipolata, celery, mushrooms pirigournigoise,orientale, orientale, périgourespagnole, milanaise,niçoise, Godard, milanaise, espagnole,Godard, other withailallother andwith Rossini,and portugaise,Rossini, dine, piimontaise,portugaise, dine,piémontaise, small servedininsmall fowlserved chickenororfowl garnishes forchicken garnishes recommended recommendedfor pieces pieceswith sauce. darksauce. withaadark various withvarions servedwith sauce,served liglrtsauce, Ballottine withlight chicken,witb Ballottfureofofchicken, and Prepareand srlNc- -Prepare garnisbes. PouLARDs ÀABLANC DEPOULARDE garnishes.BALLOTTINE BALLoTTINEDE glazeititlightly. ligbtly. andglaze above,and cook describedabove, ballottineasasdescribed cookthe theballottine

n

7373

BALM BALM Arrange on a fried croffton, or on a foundation of rice or Arrange on a fried croû ton, or on a foundation of rice or semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve wrth Vetouti semolina. Surround with a garnish and serve with Velouté or SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which or Suprême sauce (see SAUCE), using the liquor in which the ballottine was cooked. the ballottine was cooked. Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, Recommended garnishes: celery, mushrooms, noodles, ice, Albufdrq anyersoise, banquière, banquiire,Chi Chivry, demi-deuil, rice, Albuféra, anversoise, vry, demi-deuil, ivoire, princesse, rigence, Toulouse, and, generally, with ivoire, princesse, régence, Toulouse, and, generally, with garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light garnishes recommended for poultry prepared with light sauce. sauce. Small ballottines of chicken. pETrrEs BALrorrrNEs DE Small ballottines of chicken. PETITES BALLOTTINES DE voLAILLE Ballottines made of chickens' legs, when when the the VOLAILLE - - Ballottines made of chickens' legs, wings and breast are used for some other dish. wings and breast are used for sorne other dish. The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first The legs are boned and stuffed as described in the first recipe for Ballottine of chicken They are braised d brun or recipe for Ballottine of chicken. They are braised à brun or d blanc, and garnished and served as described in the direcà blanc, and garni shed and served as described in the directions for Ballottine of chicken. chicken. tions for Ballottine of Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, Sometimes this dish is given the shape of a ham knuckle, in which case it served under the name of Jambonneaux in which case it isis served under the name of Jambonneaux de volaille. de volaille. Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) f. nanorrwr Ballottine of chicken in jelly (chaud-froid) J. BALLOTTINE DE POULARDE A r.l Cnr Fr (rN cruuo-rnon) _ prepare and DE POULARDE À LA GELÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) - Prepare and cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in cook as described in preceding recipes. Finish as indicated in one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, one of the recipes for cold chicken - Chicken mayonnaise, Niva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). Néva, parisienne (see CHICKEN). Ballottine of chicken in jely II. slrrorrrNE DE pouI-er A BaUottine of cbicken in jeUy II. BALLOTTINE DE POULET À L.l csriE Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in LA GELÈE -- Prepare and cook the ballottine as described in preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, preceding recipes. Unwrap, and allow to cool in its liquor, which has been strained and the fat removed which has been strained and the fat removed. Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate Arrange the chicken on a serving dish, glaze, and decorate with jelly made from the stock in which it was cooked. with jelly madefrom the stock inwhich it was cooked. Ballottine of glazed glazed chicken (chaud-froid). BALLoTTTNE DE Ballottine of chicken (chaud-froid). BALLOTTINE DE pouI.Er cracfn (rN crnuo-FRorD) Cook the the ballottine ballottine as as POULET GLACÉE (EN CHAUD-FROID) -- Cook described in preceding recipes, chill, and prepare as in the described in preceding recipes, chili, and prepare as in the recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEI.{). recipe for Chaud-froid of chicken (see CHICKEN). Ballottines of various poultry. BALLorrrN.Es DE voLArLLEs Ballottines of various poultry. BALLOTTINES DE VOLAILLES DIvERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guineaDIVERSES - Proceed with ducks, turkeys, pigeons or guineafowl as described in the the recipe for Ballottine chicken. fowl as described in recipe for Ballottine of of chicken. Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed Forcemeat for stuffing ducks or guinea-fowl can be mixed with one-third of its gras, and and chopped chopped with one-third of its volume volume of of foie foie gras, trufles. truffles. These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes These ballottines are served hot or cold, with garnishes recommended for chicken. recommended for chicken. BALM. Name applied to various BALM. BAUME BAUME -- Name applied to various aromatic aromatic plants plants of of the the niint mint type. type.

BANANA. BANANE- -Fruit Fruitofofthe thebanana bananatree, tree,which grows whichgrows BAN ANA. BANANE regions.About tropicalregions. About 30 30species speciesofit areknown. of itare known. inintropical theHindu Hindureligion religion there thereisisaalegend legendininwhich whichthe thebanana banana lnInthe wasthe fruitforbidden thefruit forbiddentotoAdam Adamand andEve Eveininthe theterrestrial terrestrial was paradise,which, which,according according totothe thelegend, legend, was wason onthe theisland island paradise, ofCeylon, Ceylon,where where the parents of theparents ofthe thehuman humanrace racecovered covered of their nakedness nakednesswith with banana banana leaves. leaves. This Thisexplains explainsthe names thenames their of Adam's Adam's fig-tree andParadise Paradise banana, banana, which whichthe theIndians Indians of fig-treeand given tototwo havegiven twospecies speciesof of banana bananatree. tree. have The dietetic qualities of the thebanana banana are are undisputed. undisputed.ItIt propro.The dietetic qualities of vides 100 100calories calories per per100 (250 calories 100 g.g.(250 per100 calories per 100g.g.in ini ts itsddried vides ried form) and and aasufficient quantity of sufficient quantity ofail all the the mineraI mineral salts saltsnecesnecesform) saryfor for the the body's body's maintenance. maintenance. sary rich inin starch, starch, which which isis transformed transformedinto into extremely extremely ItIt isis rich energising sugar sugar when when the the fruit fruit isis fully fully ripe. ripe. ItIt also alsocon contains energising tains aI wide variety variety ofvitamins: of vitamins: A, A, B, B,BI' Br, Bz, BroBrz, and E. E. B lz , DD and wide When ripe, ripe, the the banana banana isis full full of of nourishing nourishing constituents. constituents. When contains 74pr cent water waterand and22 per cent cent carbohydrates. carbohydrates. ItIt con tains 74 per cent 22 per These carbohydrates carbohydrates are are only only assimilable assimilable when when the fruit isis the fruit These fully ripe; ripe; in green bananas in green bananas itit remains remains aa non-assimilable non-assimilable fully starch. starch. Bananas destined destined for for export export are are harvested harvested when when they Bananas they are are green, at still green, at aa stage stage when when their their fiesh flesh isis white white and and without without still flavour. They They have have to to be be transported transported in in conditions conditions ofa fiavour. ofa steady steady 0 temperature of 12.5" to of ]2.5° (54.5. to l3'c. to l3 to 55·5°F.) 55.5"F.) in in ships temperature e. (54·5° ships specially equipped equipped for for this purpose. They this purpose. They are are shipped shipped in specially in complete stems stems of of from from 15 15 to (33 to to 40 40 kg. kg. (33 to 88 88 lb.) lb.) wrapped wrapped complete in special paper or special paper polythene bags, or polythene 'hands' of bags, or or in in 'hands' from 8g of from in to 12 12 bananas packed in bananas packed in cartons cartons or or crates. crates. to On arrivaI, arrival, the (which should the bananas bananas (which should be at the be at On the same same stage of of maturity maturity as as they they were were at port of at the the port embarkation) of embarkation) stage are ripened ripened either either in in converted converted cellars cellars heated heated to to aa temare temperature of from 16·5° of from 16.5' to (61.5' to 20"C. (61,5° to 20°e. to 68°F.) 68'F.) with perature with aa humidity value value of per cent of 90 90 per cent to 95 95 per cent, cent, or in in specially humidity specially equipped depôts. dep6ts. The ripening ripening period is carried out according aciording equipped to requirements, requirements, and varies from 3 to 8 days. to When bananas are to be eaten raw, preference When bananas are preference should be given golden-yellow colour, to those those which which are aa uniform uniform golden-yellow given to or lightly lightly spotted. spotted. or There are some two There are sorne two hundred hundred species of bananas bananas in in cultivation tivation throughout throughout the world. Of these, three varieties are commonly sinensis and and poyo, commonly found found on the French French market: market: sinensis similar similar to to each each other, both both slightly curved, with fragrant, tasty and gros-Michel,larger. tasty flesh, fiesh, and gros-Michel, larger, straighter, straighter, less less fragile fragile (and (and therefore therefore more resistant to handling) handling) but but less fragrant. fragrant.

,to BAMBOCHER BAMBOCHER -- Slang Slang term term in in French French meaning meaning 'to live live it it up'. The word comes from the nickname of a Dutch painter, up'. The word cornes from the nickname of a Dutch pain ter, Pierre Pierre van van Laer, Laer, called called 'Le 'Le Bamboche', Bamboche', who who specialised specialised in in depicting chades'). depicting rustic rustic scene sceness (barnbo (bambochades). BAMBOO. BAMBOO. BAMBoUBAMBOU - Arborescent Arborescent reeds reeds (a (a genus genus of ofwoodywoodygrasses) stemmed stemmed grasses) grown grown in in tropical tropical countries. coun tries. Its Its young young shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, shoots are edible, and are pickled in vinegar and sold canned, as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten as a luxury product. The shoots, which are spiky, are eaten raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc. raw in China, Indo-China, India, Japan etc. pickle . The. The Japanese Japanese pickle tender tender bamboo bamboo shoots shootsin in sak6 sakévinegar vinegar (sak6 is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, ba-m(saké is a spirit distilled from rice). In the Sunda Isles, bamboo stems are pickled in palm vinegar. boo stems are pickled in palm vinegar. Th9 nlth of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and The pith of various species of bamboo is very sweet, and a kind of spirit oozes from it. The fruit of the bamboo is the a kind of spirit oozes from il. The fruit of the bamboo is the size of a pear, and is formed of a great number of edible seeds size ofa pear, and is formed ofa great number of edible seeds resembling ripe ears of maizn or Indian corn. young bam_ resembling ripe ears of maize or Indian corn. Young bamboo shoots boo shootsare arecovered coveredwith withfine finebut butsharp sharphairs, hairs,which whichmust must be removed be removed before before cooking, cooking, otherwise otherwise perforation perforation of of the the intestines may result. intestines may result.

BAMBOO BAMBOO MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM. cnauprcNoN CHAMPIGNON DE DE ralrsou BAMBOU -- A A mushroom mushroommuch muchvalued valuedininChinese Chinesecuisine.It cuisine. Itisisavailable avaiJableinin Europe only in its dried form. Europe only in its dried form.

Ripening Ripeningplace placefor forbananas bananas(Pomona') (Pomona)

74 74

BANANA BANANA Cut Cut the the banana banana halves halves into into slices, slices, and and steep steep them them in in sugar sugar and and rum rum for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Partly Partly fill fill the the banana banana skins skins with with (q.v.) Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) RICE) mixed mlxed with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of cryscrystallised and flavoured flavoured with with rum. rum. Arrange Arrange the the banana banana tallised fruit, fruit, and slices slices on on top, top, put put the the fruit fruit on on aa baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle sprinkle with with in and brown ground macaroons' melted melted butter butter and and finely finely ground macaroons, and brown in aa hot hot oven. oyen. (se SAUCE). Serve Serve with with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE). AUx BANANES A Banana Banana crottes croOtes ià la la Bauvilliers. BauviUiers. cRoOrEs CROÛTES AUX BANANES À LA LA BALTVILLIERS BAUVILLIERS -- Cut Cut aa stale stale brioche brioche into into a a dozen dozen rectanrectangular cm. (2|inches) (2+ inches) long long and and aa little little wider wider than than aa gular slices slices 6 6 cm. with sprinkle tray, a baking on Put the slices banatra. banana. Put the slices on a baking tray, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, ara.d and $aze glaze in in the the oven. oyen. on Fut them lengthways. and halve Peel Peel 6 6 bananas bananas and halve lengthways. Put them on aa buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and and cook cook in in alternating bananas, the Arrange minutes. for 5 oven the the OYen for 5 minutes. Arrange the bananas, alternating with with slices slices of of brioche, brioche, in in aa circle circle in in aa fireproof fireproof dish' dish. Fill FiJI the the and vanilla, centre cooked with with milk, milk, sugar sugar and vaniJla, centre with with semolina semolina cooked sernoEnglish (see SEMOLINA. SEMOLINA. English semoand bound with with egg egg yolks yolks (see and bound (q.v.) of fruit of preserved lina Lina pudding). pudding). Mix Mix with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) preserved fruit

Sinensis and andpoyo poyo come come from from Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guadeloupe, the the Sinensis Ivory Ivory Coast Coast and and the the Canaries. Canaries. The The gros-Michel gros-Michel isis grown grown in in Central America, America, South South America America and and Cameroun. Cameroun. The The latter latter Central gradually being being replacedby replaced by poyo. poyo. isis gradually In In France, France, the the gros-Michel gros-Michel of of Cameroun Cameroun is is marketed marketed principally principally in in the the east east of of the the country, country, the thepoyo poyo of of the the Ivory Ivory Coast and and Canary Canary bananas bananas in in the the south, south, Antilles Antilles bananas bananas Coast in the the Paris Paris region region and and the the west. west. in

Curved banana banaoa from from the the Curved Canaries Canariesand and straight straight banana banana from America America from

steeped steeped in in maraschino. maraschino.

macaroons crushed macaroons finely crushed with finely dish with the whole Sprinkle the Sprinkle whole dish serving, Before serving, oven. Before in the the OYen. and brown butter, and andmelted and melted butter, brown in (see SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Apricot sauce with Apricot surround with surround maraschino. maraschino. I-l A LA saNA,NEs À lux BANANES cno0rus AUX maltaise. CROÛTES la maltaise. Banana crofites cro0tes àil la Banana Banana for Banana reclpe for in the the recipe described in as described Prepare as MALTAIsE -- Prepare MALTAISE French thick French by thick semolina by replacing semolina Bauvilliers, replacing la Bauvilliers, crofites àd la croûtes grated orange orange with grated (see CREA flavoured with pastry CREAMS), cream (see pastry cream MS), flavoured peel. peel. peel orange peel candied orange with candied of bananas bananas with circle of the circle Decorate the Decorate almonds. halved almonds. and halved and and Peel bananas bananas and rhMsfns -- Peel BANANEs FLAMBÉES flambe. BANANES Bananas flambé. Bananas put into into and put Drain, and syrup. Drain, in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. them in cook them cook liqueur, with liqueur, Sprinkle with dish. Sprinkle ovenproof dish. timbale or or aa shallow shallow ovenproof aa timbale when serving. serving. alight when and set set alight and LA BANANEs ÀA LA DE BANANES FLAN DE crdme. FLAN tart ài lala crème. or tart flan or Banana flan Banana Put them them lengthways. Put them lengthways. and halve halve them Peel bananas bananas and cniuB -- Peel CRÈME in the the cook in and cook fine sugar, sugar, and with fine dish, sprinkle sprinkle with in aa buttered buttered dish, in pastry, and fill and fill made of of short short pastry, flan made in aa flan Arrange them them in oven. Arrange oyen. with Sprinkle with (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Sprinkle pastry cream cream (see with French French pastry with oven. in the the oyen. brown in and brown crushed macaroons, macaroons, and crushed Peel FRITES- - Peel (garnish for BANANES FRITES for meat). meat). BANANES bananas (garnish Fried bananas Fried minutes for 30 30 minutes Marinate for lengthways. Marinate bananas lengthways. and halve the bananas halve the and light halves ininaalight juice, salt pepper. Dip Dip the the halves and pepper. salt and in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, in required. when and fry, fry, wh batter and batter en required. Banana asBanana are the the same same as course, these these are orsweet sweet course, As aadessert dessert or As (see below). below). fritters fritters (see

are sometimes dried in their country of origin Bananas are Their calorific and exported in this form. fonn. Their calorific value then rises to The banana meat. The about 285 285 calories calories per 100 100 g. -- twice twice that of ofmeat. banana about reduced to 'flour'. 'flour'. It takes this forrn form in a number can also be reduced cocoa.. preparations, usually flavoured with cocoa of industrial preparations, as 200, as many bananas may consist of as many as 200, and A stem stem of bananas lb.).. weighs from 35 88 lb.) 35 to 40 kg. (77 to 88 weighs FouR -- Bake the bananas bananas in AU FOUR BANANDs AU Baked bananas. BANANES and melted butter and wlthout peeling them. them. Serve with melted oven without the oyen desired.. fine sugar. Serve with aa red fruit fruit jelly, if desired I\rt 66 BEAUHARNAIS - Put Ba nanas Beauharnais. BANANDs BEAUHARNAJS Beauharnais. BANANES Bananas with Dust with dish. Dust fireproof dish. peeled peeled bananas buttered fireproof into aa buttered bananas into (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (5 fine sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with for 55 oven for white in the the oyen Cook in the stove. stove. Cook heat on on the white rum, and heat rum, and with crushed crushed minutes. Pour thick cream over sprinkle with over them, them, sprinkJe glaze in in aa hot hot and glaze macaroons melted butter, butter, and little melted macaroons and and aa httle oyen dish. same dish. in the the same oven.. Serve Serve in and Peel and Bananas BoURDALoUE - Peel BANANtrs BOURDALOUE Bananas Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. BANANES in the the as described described in proceed as poach and proceed poach the bananas in in syrup, syrup, and (see APRICOTS) recipe APRICOTS).. bourdaloue (see for Apricots recipe for Apricots bourdaloue Peel bananas, bananas, Ba nanas in AU BEURRE BEURRE - Peel BANANEs AU butter. BANt\NES Bananas in butter. with put and sprinkle sprinkle with dish, and fireproof dish, put them in aa buttered them in buttered fireproof (180'C., 350°F., Mark 350oF., Gas Gas Mark sugar. oven (180°C., in the the oyen sugar. Cook Cook slowly slowly in 4) minutes. 20 to to 30 30 minutes. 4) for for 20 Banana COMPOTE. See COMPOTE. compote -- See Banana compote poach the the Bananas Peel and and poach coxo6 - Peel BANANEs CONDÉ Cond6. BANANES Bananas Condé. recipefor for Apricots Apricots bananas in the the recipe proceed as described in as described and proceed bananas and Condé (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Condi (see

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Bananas la créole Bananasà ilacr6ole

Bananas u CRÉOLE cnforp- cnarlNfns ÀALA BANANEsGRATINÉES cr6ole.BANANES Bananas àI lalacréole. Choose Remove lengthwise. Remove andcut cutthem them lengthwise. firm bananas bananas and Choose finn the water. boilingwater. minutesininboiling for22minutes theskins skinsfor andsoak fruitand soakthe thefruit Drain, cool. coldwater watertotocool. anddip dipthem theminincold Drain,and

Fried bananas with cream

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BANDOL

(669426 Ashurbanipal (669-626 Ashurbanipal n.c.)feasting feastingwith withhis B.C.) his

qtet(British queen (British Museum) Mweum'l

Banana fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE BANANEs -- Halve DE BANANES Halve the the bananas bananas Banaoa lengthways and and steep steep them them for for an an hour hour in in rum rum or or kirsch kirsch and and lengthways sugar. When When required, required, dip dip them them in in batter and deep-fry batter and deep-fry in in sugar. sizding fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar before before sizzling serving. serving. Batter. Make Make aa smooth paste with smooth thick thick paste with 33 tablespoons tablespoons Batter. (scant t* cup) cup) flour flour and and warm wann water. water. Add Add aa tablespoon tablespoon olive olive (scant oil, and and leave leave to to stand stand for for 22 to to 33 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time time to to oil, time. time. Just before before using, using, fold fold 22 stiffly stiffy whisked whisked egg egg whites whites into into the the Just batter. batter. Banana mousse mous$e glacé glac6 -- See ICE CREAMS See lCR CREAMS AND AND ICES, ICES, Banana Fruit mousse. Fruit mousse. Banana soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf AUX AUx BANANES BANANESBanana - Blend aa tablespoon flour and aa small small pinch of salt into aa smooth paste with wittr,l1 dl. dl. flour and pinch of (6 scant 1-* cup) milk milk which has been been boiled with with (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant 35 and allowed sugar and allowed to 35 g. g. Q (2 tablespoons, tablespoons, 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar cool. (or 1-] teaspoon teaspoon vanilla vanilla essence) cool. Add Add half halfaa vanilla vanilla bean (or and the boil, stirring ail all and stir stir well. weIl. Bring Bring slowly to just just under the the be that the time; time; remove remove from from the heat. The texture should be of of thick thick cream. cream. Rub with Rub the the pulp pulp of of 4 bananas bananas through through a fine sieve, mix with 22 egg and add add this egg yolks yolks and and a heaped heaped tablespoon butter, and mixture stiffly whisked mixture to the the cream cream in the saucepan. Add the stifly egg egg whites. whites. Butter and pour Butter a a soufr6 soufflé dish, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, and in in the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a a slow oven oyen (160"C., (160°C., 325"F., 325°F., Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes.

people of of the thesame sameliterary literary or people tes, or orartistic artistic tas tastes, orreligious religious or or political ideas, ideas, or or of of the the same political same social profession, or social status, status, profession, or ethnic origin, origin, and and so soon. on. ethnic The mystic mystic character character of The of aa banquet banquet isis to to be foundininpreprebefound history. In In the the origins history. origins of of ail allhuman human activity activity there there was wasmagic, magic, the need need of man to the of man to make make the the mysterious mysterious forces forces of of nature nature favourable to to him. favourable him. On On the the walls walls of ofthe the Trois Trois Frères Frires caves cavesin in Aribge, there primitive painting there isis aa primitive painting of Ariège, of aa sorcerer sorcerer in in cereceremonial robes, robes, performing performing aa sacred monial sacred dance dance in in the the middle middle of of an immense immense herd an herd of of cattle; cattlb; apparently apparently sorne some kind kind of of incantaincantation to to make make the tion the tribe's tribe's hunting hunting successful. successful. When aa slaughtered When slaughtered animal animal layon ground, itit was lay on the the ground, was divided into into two divided parts, the two parts, the first first for for the the benevolent deities, benevolent deities, the the other other for for the the tribe, tribe, clan clan or or family. family. In got In this this way way men men got used used to to meeting meeting together, together, to to divide divide amongst amongst themselves themselves the the parts of chosen chosen parts of the the animal. animal. They They continued continued to to do do this this on on the the occasion occasion of great events of the the two two great events of of their their lives, lives, birth and birth and death. death. These These were were the the first first banquets. banquets. When large therings at gatherings large ga at table possible, the table became became possible, the era era of of banquets banquets began. The The most magnificent were were those those that that took took place in the fertile fields fields of of the the orient, orient, especially especially rich rich in in spices spices and and fiavourings. flavourings. The The banquets banqueb of tbe the Egyptians Egrptians -- The The Egyptians Egyptians were were very very careful in their cooking, cooking, because because they they believed believed that that illnesses illnesses were caused by the wrong choice choice and and cooking cooking offood. of food. ConContrary trary to the customs customs of most Eastern Eastern countries, countries, the the women women took charge took charge of of the the organisation organisation of of banquets banquets in in Egypt, Egypt, directing directing the the service and and presiding at guests were at table. table. The The guests wire ushered into ushered into an an ante-room ante-room on on their their arrivaI, arrival, where where they they washed their their hands washed hands and and feet. feet. They They then then disported disported themthemselves in various games before the feast. feast. banqueting hall, At the entrance to the banqueting hall, servants servants crowned crowned them with wreaths of flowers. The The first first drinks drinks were were served, served. the meal meal began. prayers were said, and the prayers guests sat began. The The guests sat on on the the and the the various dishes dishes were placed near floor, and were placed near them, them, in in Young musicians provided music on the harp, lyre baskets. baskets. provided music on the harp, lyre and tambourine; sometimes there there were were performances by and by acrobats and mimes. mimes. acrobats Herodotus, Athanaeus Athanaeus and and Plutarch Plutarch have have recorded recorded that Herodotus, that in order order to to stimulate stimulate the the guests to to enjoy enjoy earthly earthly pleasures pleasures to to the full, full, aa coffin coffin was was sometimes sometimes brought brought in at the the end end of of the the the in at skeleton in in it, it, so so that that they they should should meal, with with an imitation skeleton meal, of life, Iife, especially especially appreciate more more highly the the good good things things of appreciate those of of the the table. table. those of the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Chaldeam Chaldeans - Strabo The banquets banquets of The - Stra bo that the the epitaph epitaph inscribed inscribed on on the the tomb tomb of of SardanaSardanatells us us that tells

BANIX)L BANDOL -- Charming Charming fishing port port in the &ipartement département of Var Var which which has has given given its its name name to to excellent white, red red and ros6 rosé wines wines produced produced in in the the locality. locality. (See pROVENCE.) PROVENCE.)

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BANGI BANGI - Small Small tree tree which which grows grows in in the the philippines. Philippines. It is lactescent lactescent and and produces produces aa pleasant, pleasant, green green coloured coloured fruit, the size size ofan of an orange. orange. BANILLES BANILLES -- Long, Long, tapering tapering small small pods pods which which have have some sorne similarity similarity to to the the vanilla vanilla bean. bean. They They contain contain a a fragrant, fragrant, sugary sugary juice juice which which is is often often used used instead instead of of vanilla vanilla in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofchocolate. chocolate.

BANQUET BANQUET -- The The word word possibly possibly comes cornes from from banc banc (bench). (bench). ItIt may may have have been been on on benches benches that that the the first first Christians Christians sat sat as as they agapes in in the the catacombs. catacombs. they celebrated celebrated their their agapes Whatever Whatever the the origin origin of of the the word, word, banquet banquet signifies signifies aa sumptuous sumptuous meal meal given given to to aa large large number number of of guests guests on on festal festal or or ceremonial ceremonial occasions. occasions. Or Or itit is is given given to to bring bring together together 76 76

BANQUET BANQUET

Fresco Fresco showing showing aa meal meal in in

Greek Greek times limes

geese and cocks.' and cocks.' ostriches, geese ostriches, given by by banquet given describes aa banquet Esther describes of Esther Book of The Book The prowas profavour was fall from from favour Vashti's fail when Queen Vashti's Ahasuerus, when orders. king's orders. at the the king's appear, at to appear, refused to had refused she had claimed after she gardens, pblace gardens, in the the palace served in banquet, served magnificent banquet, This magnificent This gold, and and and gold, of silver silver and were of The couches couches were days. The lasted seven seven days. lasted gold cups. cups. poured into into gold was poured of wine was abundance ofwine an abundance organised were organised Feasts were City Feasts the Greeks Greeks -- City of the The banquets of The In occasions. In religious occasions. or religious on social social or Greeks on the ancient ancient Greeks by the by citizens occasions, citizens for special special occasions, these banquets banquets for addition to to these addition within day, within every day, together every meal together eat aa sacred sacred meal to eat were required to were and the the fire and presence of sacred fire of the the sacred prytaneum, in in the the presence the prytaneum, the was custom was if tbis this custom that if Greeks believed believed that gods. The The Greeks protecting gods. protecting of their their favour of lose the the favour would lose they would day, they missed by single day, by aa single missed gods. gods. and meal, and attend the the meal, lot to to attend by lot men were were selected selected by In Athens, Athens, men In perform this duty. this duty. to perform refused to punished ifif they they refused were severely severely punished were and robes and white robes wore white table wore at the the sacred sacred table Those who who sat sat at Those parasites, then sacred then aa sacred were called called parasites, They were flowers. They crowns of of flowers. crowns The contempt. The of contempt. term of to become become aa term destined to title. but but lalater ter destined title, but of Demosthenes, Demosthenes, but time of the time by the parasites had disappeared by had disappeared parasites the together inin the eat together required to to eat prytanes were still required were still the prytanes the prytaneum. prytaneum. guests The guests Greek banquet. banquet.The to aaGreek invited to never invited Women were were never Women hall, the banqueting banqueting hall, entering the off before before entering their shoes shoes off took their took gods the gods invoked the and invoked washed, and for aa time, time, washed, couches for rested on on couches rested feast. Young Young the feast. down to tothe sitting down before sitting and country country before of home home and of dancing were dancing and there there were lute, and andJute, played upon harp and girls played the harp upon the girls girls. girls.

son of Anacyndara, palus reads: reads: 'sardanapalus, 'Sardanapalus, the the son Anacyndara, had palus day. Passer-by, Tarsus built in aa day. the towns of Anchiale and Tarsus matters!' and be merry, for nothing else matters!' eat, drink and armies their armies of their victories of The Assyrians Assyrians celebrated the the victories The with banquets. In an Assyrian bas-relief, we can see the king reclining on a sumptuous couch, the queen sitting at his feet, reclining on stringed instruslaves playing on the table table richly richly decked, decked, slaves the they were feet; they no feet; have no ments. The table have on the the table vessels on The vessels ments. designed to be in one copious draught. be quaffed in gives aa description description Maspéro, his Lectures Historiques, Historiqtres, gives rnhis Masp6ro, in Ashur-bani-pal, the by Ashur-bani-pal, of ordered by of these these banquets banquets ordered of one one of its power: of its king under whom the height of whom Nineveh reached the for comers for all corners open to ail 'The doors of the remained open the palace remained the walls, walls, hung on on the seven draperies hung Multicoloured draperies days. Multi-coloured seven days. transforming yards into into immense immense banqueting courtyards the court transforming the night, till night, morning till halls. from morning into them them from crowded into People crowded halls. People liked. they liked. whatever they stretching and ordering whatever on couches couches and out on stretching out to this this admitted to were admitted Women and as men, men, were as well well as and children, children, as prevented them them largesse. duties prevented whose duties were soldiers, soldiers, whose Nor were largesse. Nor drink and drink food and leaving king sent sent food the king forgotten; the the barracks, leaving the barracks, forgotten; to come.' not come.' could not who could to those those who gardens capable of capable of In and gardens were orchards orchards and Babylon, there there were In Babylon, The sumpsumpsupplying long siege. siege. The food during during aa long with food town with the town supplying the of the the those of tuousness equalled those there equalled the banquets banquets there of the tuousness of Assyrians. Assyrians. nomads were nomads The Hebrews were The Hebrews Hebrews -- The of the the Hebrews banquets of The banquets the for to occupy occupy the Chaldea to out of of Chaldea come out period, having having come for aa long long period, the land of the peace on banks of on the the banks and peace Prosperity and land of of Canaan. Canaan. Prosperity Jordan of the the table. table. pleasures of partake of the pleasures of the to partake them to enabled them Jordan enabled luxury and and when luxury At pleasures, but but when simple pleasures, were simple At first first they they were very refinement became very their banquets banquets became introduced their were introduced refinement were table, but but elaborate. down to to table, satdown kings they they sat of the the kings time of At the the time elaborate. At They later to eat. eat. They couches to on couches reclining on of reclining habit of adopted the the habit later adopted guests arrived arrived perfumed when guests and when with essences, essences, and perfumed their wine with their wine poured over over for was poured perfume was water and and perfume holy water for aa banquet, banquet, holy places them, their places andtook took their flowers, and with flowers, crowned with they were were crowned them, they according rank. to their their rank. according to pipe.' Music andpipe.' 'with the tabret and harp, the the tabret the harp, was made made 'with Music was Women were they were feasts, but but they thefeasts, admitted totothe firstadmitted not atatfirst Women were werenot accepted the entertained,the handsomely entertained, were handsomely andwere time, and accepted inin time, Sabeans wrists theirwrists putting bracelets on their bracelets on desert putting from the the desert Sabeans from and heads. their heads. crowns on ontheir and crowns 'One The says:'One Athenaeussays: Persians -- Athenaeus of the thePersians banquetsof The banquets thousand king's table; table; theking's forthe dailyfor areslaughtered slaughtered daily animalsare thousand animais horses, thesmaller smaller of the mostof andmost deerand asses, deer oxen,asses, camels,oxen, horses,camels, animaIs. Arabian suchasasArabian arealso alsoconsumed, consumed, such Manybirds birdsare animals.Many

banquet Greekbanquet musicatata aGreek andmusic Dancingand Dancing

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BANQUET BANQUET The banquets of the Romans - The splendours of Imperial _Tbe banquets of tbe Romans - The splendours of Imperial Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often Rome were reflected in their banquets. The Romans often

Thebanquets banquebofofthe (100B.C.) theGauls Gauls(100 B.C.)- -The Thefood foodofofthe the The earlyGauls Gaulsconsisted consistedmainly mainlyofoffresh freshororsalted pork,the saltedpork, the early animalsthey theyraised raisedininthe theforests, forests,and andmilk. milk.Their Theirmeals meals animais togetherwere werelong, long,served servedby by young people.AAbrazier brazierwiwith th spitsand andcauldrons cauldronswas was placed near the tables,and andfood foodwas was cookedininthem. them. cooked guestssat Theguests saton onbundles bundles ofofstraw strawround roundlow lowtables. The tables. quantitiesofofmeat, Greatquantities meat,boiled, boiled,roasted roastedononthe thespit spitoror Great grilled,with withaalittle littlebread, bread,constituted constituted the themeal. meal. grilled, Posidonious, the theGreek Greekstoic philosopher, has stoicphilosopher, hasleft Posidonious, lefta a description of ofthe themeal: meal: description 'Thefood food isisserved served ininaac1ean cleanway: way:on onsilsilver 'The ver ororcopper copper dishesininrich richhouses, houses,on onearthenware earthenwareororwood wooden dishes en ones onesininthe the homes of ofthe jointand the poor.Each Eachman mantakes takesaawho whole andbites; homes le joint bites; should the the piecebe too toughorortoo betoo toobig, hecuts cutsititwith big,he should withaa small knife, knife,the thescabbard scabbard ofwhich which isisattached attachedtotohis hissword. small sword. singledrinking drinking vessel vesselof ofearthenware earthenwareor ormetal metalisishanded AAsingle handed round by byslaves slaves and and makes makesmany manyrounds, rounds,but round butone onedrinks drinks little atat aa time.' time.' little The Gauls Gaulsdrank drank various variouswines wines from from the thehorns hornsof The of wild wild oxen, ornamented ornamented with goldor with gold orsilver silver rings;and andsometimes oxen, sometimes from the the skulls skulls of of their their enemies enemies killed killed inin battle,or from orof oftheir their own dead parents, whose dead parents, whosememory memory they own they thus thus wished wished toto honour, out out of piety. of filial filial piety. honour, The wines wines of of Bezier Bezier and and Vien Vienna, andItalian The na, and Italian and andGreek Greek wines, were were seen seen on on the the tables tables of of the wines, the rich. rich. They They were were taken taken in in quantities, and small quantities, and diluted diluted with small with water. water. The poor drank The poor drank and hydromel beer, and hydromel -- herb herb and and spice-fiavoured beer, spice-flavoured honey, honey, diluted with with water. water. diluted Fish was was eaten eaten in in areas areas near near the Fish sea, and and mainly grilled, the sea, seasoned with with salt salt and and cumin cumin and and sprinkled seasoned sprinkled with with vinegar. On special special occasions, occasions, the guests sat the guests On at aa round sat at round table, aa prominent place place being given to being given prominent to the the most most distinguished distinguished or or the most most valiant. valiant. There There was was aa custom the custom that that the the legs legs of of the the animals served served should should be allotted to animais be allotted the bravest. to the bravest. This This was was aa quarrelso and source of of quarrels, and often often aa fight source fight to to the the death. death. The banquets of of the the Gallo-Romans Tbe Gallo-Romans -- The The wealthy wealthy GalloGalloRomans adopted Latin Latin customs, customs, and and their their banquets were were modelled on the Roman, though they they discarded discarded the custom custom of reclining reclining on on couches. of la Bédolière, B6dolibre, in in his his Moeurs De la Moeurs et et vie privie des des Français, Frangais, describes the the banquets banquets of describes of the the Gallo-Romans; here here are are extracts: 'Some Gauls, disdaining disdaining the 'Sorne Gauls, the indolence of of the the Romans, Romans, use use benches, stools and and other wooden seats seats covered covered with aa carpet instead ofcouches. instead of couches ... . . The guests put on special robes and sandals and take their places around the table . .. . . Slaves Slaves bring in a great quantity of meat, roast or or boiled, which which is is carved with great skill skiU and dexterity by by servants. The meal meal starts starts with a tasting of of mulsurn mulswn ot or medwn, mulled wine wine mixed medum,mulled with sai ver is placed placed in the centre centre of with honey honey .... . . A salver of the table table and various various dishes dishes are put on it one after the other: fresh eggs, quarters of of beef, beef, mutton, pork, goat, goat, all seasoned seasoned with yolks of egg, egg, black black pepper, pepper, brine, brine, cumin, cumin, salt .... . As As aa dessert, dessert, the the guests guests are are served with hot or cold cold tarts. tarts, honey honey cakes, cakes, soft cheese, cheese, grilled escargots, medlars, chestchestnuts, figs, Gaul peaches and and grapes. grapes. At the end of of the meal meal nuts, figs, hot hot mulswn mu/sUIn is is brought in once again, and and slaves distribute toothpicks made made of feathers, wood and and silver.' silver.' toothpicks The banquets banquets of of the tbe Franks Franks -- Caius Caius Sollius Apollinaris Apollinaris The that one one could could find find in in the the banquets of of the the Sidonius states states that Sidonius Franks Franks 'the 'the elegance elegance of of Greece, Greece, the the abundance abundance of Gaul, Gaul, the the of ltaly, Italy, the the pomp pomp of of public public ceremonial ceremonial allied allied to to dispatch of lasUOlOllsness of of aa private private table, table, of of the the order order befitting befitting aa the fastidiousness palace.' king's palace.' of the the period period mention mention silver silver tables, tables, gold gold and and Writers of silver utensils, utensils, tablecloths tablecloths fashioned fashioned from from fresh fresh roses. roses. The The silver Franks were were very very hospitable, hospitable, and and had had aa strict strict code code of of table table Franks

sacrificed the dishes themselves to presentation and ostentasacrrnced the dishes themselves to presentation and ostentation. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his guests 600 tion. At one meal Heliogabalus served to his 600 ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils with precious ostrich brains, peas with grains of gold, lentils stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. stones, and other dishes with pearls and amber. The room where the Romans took their meals was called The room where the Romans took their meals was called the triclinium; it was the custom to put only three couches the tricliniwn; it was the custom to put round a table. Each guest brought his own napkin. On arrival, round a table. Each brought his own the guests changed into white robes and sandals, and took the white robes and and took their places at table according to their status. After invoking at according to their status. After invoking the Penates, Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating Lares and Jupiter, they began the feast, eating with their fingers. fingers. with their

A Roman banquet A Roman banquet

The first first course course was was the the hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, served served with with aa Iight light The wine. The The second second was was the coena, which the coena, which was was the the main main course, couise, wine. after which which sacrifices sacrifices were were made made to to the the Lares Lares amid amid silence. silence. after The third third course course was was the the dessert, dessert, fresh fresh or or dried fruit or dried fruit or fruit fruit The pastries, but baked in in pastries, but there there was was sometimes sometimes aa more more solid solid baked course instead instead of of dessert. dessert. In In aa menu menu found found in in the the ruins ruins of of course Pompeii, this this course course included included sows' sows' udders, udders, wild wild boar's boar,s Pompeii, head, fricassie of wild wild duck, duck, and and aa cream cream made made of of fiour flour and and head, fricassée of Vicence cakes. Vicence cakes. Musicians, poets poets and and dancers dancers appeared at at important important _ Musicians, banquets, sometimes there there were were gladiator fighti, acrobanquets, and and sometimes OI~It11~rr\r fights, bats bats and and clowns. clowns. There accounts of grandiose luxury of the the grandiose luxury of of the There are are many many accounts barbaric gives us Romans. petronius Petronius gives barbaric feasts feasts given given by by the the Romans. some from a of what what they they were were like like in in this this extract extract from sorne idea idea of description Trimalchio's feast: feast: of one one of of these, these, Trimalchio's description of 'On 'On aa tray tray of of relishes relishes stood stood a a small small bronze bronze ass, ass, carrying carrying twin containing green green and and the the other other biack black twin baskets, baskets, one one containing olives. Salvers, moulded like olives. Salvers, moulded Iike bridges, bridges, contained contained dormice, seasoned seasoned with with honey honey and and poppy seeds. seeds. There There were sizzling sausages on aa silver silver gridiron, with Syrian Syrian plums plums and pomesausages on granate ..A granate seeds seeds placed placed beneath it. it ... A basketwas basket was placed placed before us_containing hen, wings wings spread spread out ou t as as ifif she she were were hatching. ha tching. us con taining aa hen, We We broke broke the the egg, egg, which which was was made made of of light light pastry pastry looking looking exactly . . and and found found in in itit aa plump plump beccafico beccafico exactly like like the the shell shell .... (garden (garden warbler), warbler), deliciously deliciously spiced, hidden hidden insidl inside the the y-olk. yolk. Crystal Crystal flagons, carefully carefully sealed, were brought in. in. Around Around the neck of each the neck each bottle bottle hung hung a a label: Falernian opimian op imian wine ;vine 100 100 years years old.' old.' The The long long account account goes goes on on to to list list the the fantastic fantastic manner manner in in which of the the which dishes dishes were were served served;; aa tray tray with with the the twelve twelve signs signs of zodiac reproduced chef had had zodiac reproduced on on itit in in aa circle, circle, on on which which the the chef placed dishes dishes analogous to to the the particular constellation constellation -- aa piece of of beef beef over over Taurus (the (the Bull), kidneys kidneys and and testicles testicles over Cancer (the (the Crab), Crab), the the uterus uterus of aa sow sow over over Virgo Virgo (the (the over Cancer Virgin), hare over over Sagittarius Sagittarius (the (the Archer), Archer), two two mullets mullets Virgin), aa hare (the over over Pisces Pisces (the Fish), Fish), and and so so on. on. An An enonnous enormous wild wild boar boar was was served served on on aa platter, platter, with with little little pastry pastry sucking pigs pressing . . AA slave pressingon on the the teats teats .... slave gave the the boar boar aa stab irrthe belly and out out flew flew aa cloud cloud of of thrushes, trying trying to to escape. escape. belly and Bird Bird catchers catchers caught caught them them with with fowlers' fowlers' rods. rods, and and offered offered them themtotothe theguests. guests. 78 78

BANQUET BANQUET Faience Faïence and and Nevers Nevers porcelain, porcelain, Venetian Venetian glass. glass. Forks Forks and and long-handled long-handled spoons spoons had had come come into into use, use, and and cooking cooking lad had become become more more refined. refined. Belon, Belon, inhis in his TraitC Traité des des Oyseaux Oyseaux writes writes of of 'a 'a thousand thousand little little disguises disguises of of flesh, ftesh, made made into into soups' soups, jricassées, hashes, hashes, salads.' salads.' After After roast roast and and boiled boiled joints joints and and Jricassies, game, game, there there were were cold cold desserts'such desserts 'such as as fruits, fruits, milk milk products, products, sweetmeats, sweetmeats, cakes, cakes, cheese, cheese, chestnuts, chestnuts, Capendy Capendy apples, apples, aa salad salad of of lemons lemons or or pomegranates.' pomegranates.' French French banquets banquets ofthe of the seventeenth seventeenth century century -- In In the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, there there was was less less display display at at banquets banquets and and more more emphasis emphasis on on harmony harmony and and simplicity. simplicity. Under Under Louis Louis XIV, XIV, however, however, there there were were usually usually four four substantial substantial dishes dishes -- roast roast

manners. Wine Wine was was passed passed round round the the table table and and the the guests guests manners. drank from from the the same same cup. cup. Lamps Lamps were were considered considered to to drank desecrate the the table table at at aa banquet; banquet ;the the room room was was lit lit by by torches torches desecrate held aloft aloft by by slaves. slaves. held French French banquets banquets from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages to to the the fifteenth fifteenth century -- The The beginning beginning of ofaa banquet banquet was was announced announced by by the the century sound sound of of a a horn, horn, a a privilege privitege reserved reserved for for the the highest highest personages kingdom. Guests Guests washed washed their their hands hands with with personages in in the the kingdom. perfumed perfumed water water before before sitting sitting down, down, and and after after each each course; course; forks forks had had not not been been invented; invented; food food was was eaten eaten with with fingers. fingers.

Meal served served to Grandgousier, Grandgousier, Gars:?ti:;.i*-, Gargaotua 's father, from from an old old edition edition of of the Meal works of Rabelais

side table, on a Goblets and tankards were placed on a side table, and and tankards Goblets This manner fiUed by pages pages who brought them them to the guests. Th.is filled end of the meals survived until the end of serving wine during meals In royal courts, the dishes were tasted eighteenth century. century. In with aa talisman, to assure by aa special servant, or touched with by not poisoned. The was not the royal personages that that the the food food was the menus were exotic, and included roast peacocks with gilded in their pheasants dressed dressed in and pheasants bills and claws, claws, swans swans and bills and

of presented. The dessert, of plumage, ca Ives and calves and pigs ornately presented. fruit preserves, dried fruit followed by was followed by dried fruit and creams, fruit and creams, was (spiced wine) wine).. pastry pastry and and hippocras hippouas (spiced great banFrench banquets sixteentb century -- The great the sixteenth banqueb of the love of of opulence; quets given during show aa love quets given century show this century during this dinner plate, gold and and silver silver dinner richly and engraved engraved gold richly wrought and

XIV Louis XIV of Louis the reign reign of during the A Royal Royal banquet banquet during A

Kings ble at ta table Kings at (woodcut,, Lyon, (woodcut 1508) Lyon, 1508)

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BANQUET

Seventeenth quet fare Seventeenth century cenlUry French French ban banquet rare (Giraudon) (Giraudon)

poultry and meat, as well soup. These meat,poultry and game gameas weil as as tureens tureens of ofsoup. These were were followed followed by by melons, melons, various various salads salads in in bowls bowls 'or 'or in in little !ittle plates plates

ments in in the the same same order order and and with with the the same same ceremony ceremony with with ments which he he had had been been ushered ushered in.' in.' which Madame Vigie-Lebrun's Vigée-Lebrun's Greek Greek supper. supper. Among Among legendary legendary Madame eighteenth century century meals meals was was aa supper supper given given by by the the artist. artist. eighteenth Vigée-Lebrun. In her her memoirs memoirs she she describes describes 'the 'the most most Vig6e-Lebrun. brilliant supper supper I1 ever ever gave,' gave,' which which was, was, in fact, a miniature miniature brilliant Her brother brother was was reading reading aa book book of of travels travels to to her her one one banq uet. Her banquet. afternoon while while she she was was resting, resting, and and came came to to a a passage passage afternoon describing aa Greek Greek dinner dinner and and the the manner manner of of preparing preparing describing

to to make make serving serving them them easier,' easier,' comments comments Nicolas Nicolas de .de BonBonnefons nefons (Ddlices (Délices de de la la campagne), campagne), and and goes goes on on to to describe describe what what he he considers considers to to be be an an ideal ideal banquet banquet for for aa company company of of thirty thirty people. people. Among Among other other dishes dishes there there should should be be aa potage potage de de Ia la

Reine, Reine, made made of of minced minced partridge partridge or or pheasant, pheasant, in in the the first first course; course; roast roast venison venison haunches haunches baked baked in in pastry pastry in in the the second; second; woodcock, woodcock, turkeys, turkeys, chickens chickens and and whole wbole lambs lambs in in the the third; third; snipe, snipe, thrushes,larks thrushes, larks and'all and 'ail sorts sorts of ofsmall small fried fried things' tbings' in in the the fourth; fourth; whole wbole salmon, salmon, trout, trou t, carp, carp, pike, pike, withy'icassdes withJricassées of ofturtle turtle in in the the fifth; fifth; and and three three finishing finishing courses courses which which would would include include blancmanges, blancmanges, fruit, fruit, almonds almonds and and green green walnuts, walnuts, preserves preserves in in syrup, syrup, or or dried dried marzipans marzipans and and sugar sugar almonds. almonds. French French banquets banquets of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century -- Great Great pomp pomp accompanied accompanied banquets banquets in in the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XV. XV. On On the the occasion occasion of of the the anointing anointing of of the the king king in in 1772, 1772, aa royal royal banbanquet quet was was held held in in the tbe archiepiscopal archiepiscopal palace palace at at Rheims. Rheims. After After gorgeous gorgeous processions processions headed headed by by musicians musicians playing playing oboes, oboes, trumpets trumpets and and flutes, fiutes, the the king king was was led led to to aa table table on on aa dais ofstate. state. dais and andjoined joinedby byhigh bigh officers officers of The Thecompany companycomprised comprised the the noblest noblestinin the the land, land, but but ladies ladies and not seated seated with with the the gentlemen, gentlemen, and and and princelings princelings were were not had had to to wait wait until until the the king king had had retired. retired. According According to to the the old old document document from from which which the the above above descriptions descriptions are are taken: taken: 'During 'During this this sumptuous sumptuous banquet banquet the the Duchess Duchess of of Lorraine, Lorraine, who, wbo, from from her her tribune, tribune, could could see see all ail the the succulent succulent dishes dishes filing filing past past without without being being able able to to touch touch them, them, quietly quietly nibbled nibbled biscuits, with with which which she she was was fortunately fortunately provided provided .... After biscuits, . . After the the dinner, dinner, the the Archbishop Archbishop of of Rheims Rheîms said said grace grace -- the the Duchess Duchess of of Lorraine Lorraine by by this tbis time time had had reached reached her her reserves reserves of ofdried dried plums plums-- and and the the king kingwas was re-conducted re-conducted to to his his apartapart-

Cutlerybelonging belongingtoto Louis LouisXIV XIV Cutlery

80 80

BANQUET BANQUET decided to several several sauces. sauces. Madame Madame Lebrun immediately immediately decided have she was these sauces sauces for for a a supper party party she have certain certain of these giving giving that tbat evening and summoned her cook, ordering ordering that Greek Greek sauces sauces should be served with witb chickens cbickens and eels on the menu. evening's menu. and vases urns and had a a collection collection of Greek urns A friend who had decorated of his best best pieces, pieces, and the room was was decorated lent her her several several ofhis lent classical style. in classical and Monsieur Boutin, Two guests, Monsieur Vaudreuil and guests o'clock, but the other guests not able to come come until ten o'clock, were not Lebrun dressed Madame Lebrun half-past nine. Madame arrived soon after half-past draperies she had in her the women in Grecian fashion from draperies found cloaks and and other picturesque and found studio workroom, and garments for the men. guests, her her brother While they they waited waited for for the the two late guests, While two late recited several several odes when the the others others Anacreon. and and when recited odes of of Anacreon, they found found the the company Gluck's cborus chorus company singing singing Gluck's arrived, they bières from Le Dieu de M. de de Cu Cubibres et de de Cnide, with M. de Paphos et accompanying them on a lyre whicb from which he had improvised from accompanying guitar. a guitar. 'In all my life 1I have never seen two faces more astonished than those of Monsieur de and his his companion,' companion,' de Vaudreuil Vaudreuil and than 'They continues Madame Lebrun in event. 'They in her recital of the event. were astounded and and charmed.' as sauces, as Greek sauces, with the the Greek At supper, were served served with supper, dishes were well as aa sweet made They drank drank and currants. They made from honey and a bottle of old Cyprus wine which to the the which bad had been aa present to artist. remarks. artist. 'That was all the excess,' excess,' she remarks. Rumour quickly ran about this this famous famous ran round round Versailles about supper. Rome the In Rome francs. In to have cost 20,000 francs. supper. It was said to whispered to francs, in in Vienna Vienna to to 40,000 francs, raised to whispered figure was was raised 60,000 st Madame Madame In fact, fact, it it co cost 60,000 francs, in Petersburg Petersburg to 80,000. In Lebrun, according to her memoirs, 15 francs. l5 francs. French The beginning century -- The French banquets banque$ in the nineteenth century of this publication of Brillat-Savarin's la of BriJlat-Savarin's Ia the publication century saw this century saw the Physiologie goitt, in the rules rules of of in which which he he established established the Physiologie du du goût,

Prince of given by birth of of the the Prince of Banquet te the Banquet given Alba to celebrate the birth by the the Duke Duke of of Alba to celebra Asturias in 1707

Marie Antoinette on the ocCasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraviog on metal, Louvre) Banquet given in Banquet given in honour honour of of Louis Louis XVI XVI and andQueen Queen Marie Antoinette on the occasion of the birth of the Dauphin in 1785 (engraving on metal, Louvre)

81 8l

BANQUET BANQUET

given on Dinner given Dinner on77Mareil March1806 1806by bythe the printdealers Paris Paris print dealers to totheir their feUow fellow dealer dealer Le LeConfrère, The legend Confrdre. The legend on onthe the printt bears prin bears the following inscription: the following inscription: 'They beg 'They beghim him to toaccept acc€pt this thislight light sketch their esleem sketchasasaatoken tokenof oftheir esteemand and friendship. friendship. May heremember rernember them May he them sometimes sometimes inin his his retirement retirement and and for foraa long long lime timeenjoy the happiness happiness he enjoy the he deserves heart and deserves for for rus his kindness kindness of ofheart and probity' probity'

'

great gala dinner harmoniously. For aa great dinner he laid laid down: down: dining harmoniously. be luxuriously luxuriously lit, lit, the cloth be the c10th of 'That the dining-room be be of the utmost cleanliness, and and the the temperature from from 13 13 to to 16 16 utmost c1eanliness, (6l"to R6aumur thermometer (61 degrees by the Réaumur () to 66°F.). 66"F.). 'That the men be witty wi withoutpretensions and the women 'That thout' pre tensions and women channing without without being too coquettish. charming 'That the choice of dishes dishes be be exquisite but restrained in 'That in number, and and the win wines the first first quality, each the es of the the best of of its kind. 'That the order for the the former should he be from from the the most substantial to the lightest, and for the latter from the lightest to those with the greatest greatest bouquet. 'That the speed of of eating eating should should be moderate, dinner the speed be moderate, being the last affair of the day; and guests behave and that the guests like at the like travellers who who aim aim to to arrive at the same same destination together. 'That the coffee be scalding hot, and the liqueurs specially chosen house.' chosen by the master of the house.' He added added rules rules for the guests' entertainment entertainment after dinner: 'That the salon bebe sufficiently sufficiently spacious a game spacious to organise organise agame of cards for for those who who cannot do do without, without, and and to to leave enough room to enable enable the rest to enjoy conversation. 'That the guests be be held by the pleasure pleasure of the company, 'That by the hope hope that that the evening evening will will not not pass without without and stirred stirred by and sorne further entertainment.' entertainment.' some In In the same sa me epoch, epoch, the the gastronome Grimod de la Reynière Reynibre established a Charte de bon manger.In manger. In his bis Manuel des des also established governing banquets. He himhi mamphitryons are decreed laws governing arnphitryons self gave gave grand dinners, some sorne of ofthem self them eccentric; he once sent out invitations invitations for a dinner in the form forro of of obituary notices, out of a big bidding his his guests guests 'attend 'attend the the funeral funeral and obsequies obsequies of bidding feed.' feed.' Fashionable Fashionable restaurants, restaurants. During the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, there was was a vogue for for magnfficent magnificent banquets banquets in certain resthere At one one such dinner, dinner, given given at Rocher Rocher de de Cancaleby Cancale by taurants. At taurants. certain English English Lord Lord W., W., Marennes oysters, oysters, aa ham roasted aa certain on a spit, grouse grouse brought brought specially from Scotland, salads, salads, on

special dishes and special sweet sweet dishes and several several kinds kinds of of cheese, cheese, figure figure on on the the menu. menu. The The wine wine was was Clos-Vougeot, and the Clos-Vougeot, and the company company did did not not depart depart until three o'clock until three o'clock in in the morning. the morning. Banquets onder the Second under the Second Empire Empire -- There There was was aa number number of gastronomical galas, of magnificent magnificent gastronomical galas, and and in in the the sections sections headed headed COOKING given of COOKING and and MENUS, MENUS, examples examples are are given of what what these these state state dinners dinners were were like. like.

The coronation dinner dinner of of Charles Charles X X at Reims The coronation at Reims

82 82

BS{mQUILLES

Novernber 1905 Banquet held held in la Galerie des Machines in Paris, 5 November

grand cru grape. The The Banyuls Banyuls grand from the from black Grenache grape. the black have to have to undergo undergo an an obligatory maturing period of thirty consumption. months in wood wood before being released for consumption.

quite different different in were quite in the later Later banquets -- Things were (22 Sepbanquets and at the celebrated 'mayors' banquet' banquet' (22 guests of the President 1900), 22,295 guests President of of the Republic, tember 1900), frock coats and and crush hats, hats. were were served with an attired in in frock identical menu:

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tree. Its BAOBAB known tropical African African tree. BAOBAB - The The largest largest known fruit isis called monkeys eat eat it. it. Its fruit called monkey-bread, because because monkeys flavour, is made pulp, which is very sweet with aa slight acid flavour, inhabitants into aa refreshing drink much liked by the local inhabitants grows, and is drunk of of the region where this magnificent magnificent tree grows, aa great deal in Morocco and Egypt. in the The Africans dry shade, The dry the leaves of the baobab in the shade, and mix it with call lalo, and reduce them to powder which they caUlalo, their food.

Hors-d'auvre Hors-d'œuvre Filet de boeuf m Bellevue Bellevue boeuf en Pains de canetons de Rouen Poularde de Bresse rôtie r6tie de faisan Saint-Hubert Ballottine Saint-Hubert Ballottine defaisan Salade Potel succCs Condé Condi Glace succès Desserts number of guests sat down Never before had such a large number together at aa single meal, recounts M. Christian Guy in his achieved Histoire Histoire de la cuisine française; this was successfully cuisinefrangaise; successfully achieved et Chabot. by the excellent organisation organisation of Maison Potel et of official official banquets It is interesting to note that the menus of never mention mention the may have cheeses served. This may have been never the cheeses served. This formed part of the dessert and so needed no because cheese fonned special mention.

(A LA) -- Garnish BANQUIDRE (À BANQUIÈRE Garnish used used for chicken, calves' vol-au-vent It It is made of of quenelles, mushrooms, sweetbreads, vol-au-vent. sauce. (See thin slivers slivers of banquidre sauce. thin truffies and of trufles and banquière GARNTSHES.) GARNISHES.) BANTAM BANT AM -- A A variety of Java Java chickens, named after the town where they origjnated. originated. These birds have a very delicate prepared in the same way as ordinary chickens. ordinary chickens. flesh, and are prepared which allowed BANVIN -- French word for the feudal right which the seigneur wine from his estate estate for for aa certain the from his seigneur to to sell sell the the wine time, before The word word is also used for the is also time, before anyone anyone else. else. The used for proclamation announcing private day after announcing the after which which priva proclamation te the day could Id sell persons cou sell new wine.

Baobab

BAI\YUIS -- Commune Commune in the eastem eastern Pyrenees, which has BANYULS given its name to aa well-known well-known appellation controlée controlie dessert crz, which is is produced wine -- Banyuls and and Banyuls grand cru, from the slaty in aa restricted mountainous terrain from the terrain in restricted zone slaty mountainous comprising the communes of of Banyuls, Banyuls, Port-Vendres, Port-Vendres, comprising the communes Cerbbre and Collioure. This wine is made almost exclusively exclusivelv Cerbère

A hot hors-d'euvre; triangular patties, BARAQUILLES -- A hot hors-d'œuvre; filled (q.v.) of winged game fillets, with aa salpicon calves' fillets, caives' filled with salpicon (q.v.) winged game gras, trutHes foie gras, sweetbreads, foie trufles and mushrooms, bound with (see SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Allemande sauce AarMadeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). Barprepared as rissoles. aquilles are also prepared aquilles 83

BARASHmflrffMesU BARASHEKII2f.MASLA FRlr -- Proceed as described described in barbel. sARBtLLoN Proceed as Fried BARBILLON FRIT Fried barbel. bass (see BASS). BASS). for Fried bass the recipe for cnnr,6 -- Proceed Proceed as as described BARBILLON GRILLÉ Grilled Grined barbel. BARBILLoN for Grilled Dass (see BASS). in the recipe for Grilled bass in A LA MsuNItnn -- Proceed meunibre. BARBILLoN Ln MEUNIÈRE BARBILLON À Barbel àI la meunière. .Bass à meuniCre (see BASS). in the recipe for Bass d la meunière as described described in A LA rl MODE Droos DES nEs des mariniers. BARBEAU À Barbel ài la mode des a l-kg. (2-lb.) barbel and cut off MARINIERS -- Clean and scale al-kg. MARTNIERs fish, fins. Put the roe, if any, any, back into the fish, and fins. the wattles and pepper. and pepper. seasoned with salt and lightly in in butter and 44 shallots Fry ions and Fry 22 chopped chopped on onions shallots lightly without browning, browning, and place in an earthenware earthenware dish, together (a oz.) chopped g. (4 and 100 g. with 7 or 8 chopped dried walnuts and mushrooms. pepper, fish, season and pepper, Make aa few slits in in the fish, season with salt and dish. Add Addz2 glasses and place on the above ingredients in the dish. g. (4 oz., ~i cup) butter divided into red wine, and into small red and 100 g. Bring slowly to the boil on top of the stove, th then pieces. Bring en cook in a hot oyen basting frequently. Ten minutes oven for 35 minutes, minutes, basting and with breadcrumbs and before the end cooking, sprinkle sprinkle with end of cooking, end of the 35 in the oyen. melted butter and and replace in oven. By the end away. minutes the wine should should have boiled away. with chopped parsley before serving. Sprinkle with n6rr -- Make in aa mediumRoast barbel. barbel. BARBEAU BARBEAU RÔTI Make slits slits in in the of anchovy in the slits, slits, sprinkle insert fillets fillets of sized sized barbel, barbel, insert with oil or melted butter, season, and roast in the oyen oven or on frequently during cooking. aa spit. spit. Baste frequently placed on fish is cooked and and placed dish, dilute the When the fish on aa dish, juices with pan juices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, add add 1I tablespoon juice, stir weil, butter and a dash of lemon well, and serve with the butter lemon juice,stir fish. (see BUTTER) BUTTER) d h|tel butter butter (see Anchovy butter Matte d'hôtel butter or or Maître can be served at the same time. parts of the of in sorne the south south of ON -- Name BARBER Name used used in BARBERON some parts France for for salsify. BARBERRY. ÉPINE-VINETTE shrub. Its fpNn-vtNsrrs -- A common prickly shrub. pickled in green berries like capers. capers. The green can be be pickled in vinegar, vinegar, like berries can berries, red colour in in November, contain berries, which which ripen ripen to to aa red and are are used great deal used to to make tric acid, and aa great and ci citric malic and deal of malic jam, and syrup, jam, and aa kind kind of wine. for Barberries are are also also used used to drink for to make aa refreshing drink is used used brewed from the the roots is feverish feverish conditions. conditions. A tisane tisane brewed as aa diuretic, in cases of diuretic, especially especially in of jaundice. AU SEC sEc -Dried candied barberries. coNFITE AU fpINe-vINErrE CONFITE barberries. ÉPINE-VINETTE red fine red An An old old recipe says: 'Take large large ripe barberries of aa fine (21b.) lb.) berries, cook colour. Leave them in c1usters. kg. (2 For 1I kg. clusters. For (2jlb.) feather (see SUGAR). lf kg. (2~ SUGAR). Put in the li lb.) sugar to a large feather appear. barberries and boil on a high flame until bubbles bubbles appear. 'Ta\<:e the stove. When the fruit is beginning to. 'Take off to cool, put offthe . it in in aa hot cupboard, leaving it to drain on on aa thick c10th cloth until paper to finish next white paper to finish Transfer to clean white next day. day. Transfer to sheets sheets of c1ean which has has draining. with sugar sugar which draining. Dust Dust the the c1usters clusters of berries berries with the been rubbed through a very fine sieve, sieve, and return them to the hot cupboard to dry off completely.' offcompletely.'

BAR Make

(Butter lamb) (Russian cookery) lamb with butter which has been rendered left in ic€ ice water. Coyer Cover the model with a thin down with aa coarse-weave utter, tter, pressing down coarse-weave cloth to give the appearance appearance of fleece. fleece. Mark the eyes with ttle circles of truffies, trufles, or two raisins. Put Put a small green ranch in the lamb's mouth. is aa feature of the This symbolic lamb is the traditional traditional table Easter meal in Russia. laid for the ritual Easter

BARBADOS DEs BARBADES -- Liqueur BARBADOS CREAM. CREAM. CRÈME cnirr,c DES made of lemon, lemon, orange and peel, mace, mace, cinnamon, and citron citron peel, cinnamon, which was once aa fashionable cloyes, sugar cloves, sugar and and eau-de-vie, which drink.

BARBAREA. BARBARÉE nARSARfE -- This plant -- also also called called herb herb of piquant, rather St Barbara, yarrow, and rocket -- has a piquant, and yellow rocket flavour not unlike that s, and the same cress, and has has the not unlike that of cres bitter flavour properties. It grows wild in damp and sandy anti-scorbutic properties~ places. called land cress or American cress A variety variety of barbarea, called (U.5. winter (U.S. winter cress) is cultivatedand cultivated and eaten in salads. Barbarea can can be be prepared in in ail all the ways ways recommended recornmended for cresso cress. In certain regions it is mixed with spinach. spinach. BARBARIN BARBARIN -- French name for aa fish fish of the mullet family.

(U.S. squash) BARBARINE -- A marrow (U.S. BARBARINE A variety variety of of marrow squash) of various shapes and sizes. an elongated sizes. It has an elongated shape, rather like aa cucumber, plain yellow or parti-coloured, sometimes sometimes striped with green. The best barbarines are pale yellow, and and given for marrows can be prepared according to the recipes given and and cucumbers. cucumbers.

Barbel

BARBEL. BARBEAU, BARBILLON BARBTLLoN -- River fish fish recognisable recognisable by the snout, and the the barbels at the end of and at the corners of ofthe ofthe jaws. In is found found in in ail all the rivers. In France, the the common barbel is The southern barbel is found in the found in in the south of France, France, in Alpes-Maritimes Pyr6n6es-Orientales. Alpes-Maritimes and in the Pyrénées-Orientales. The bel is The flesh flesh of the is insipid, insipid, and and it it has the bar barbel has too too many pleasant. The bones bones to be pleasant. The fish fish feeds feeds on on the river bed bed and the river to be nibbles at at the the fishermen's bait, bait, especially especially those those of of animal origin, is fond fond of crickets origin, which are very much to its taste. It is and grass-hoppers, and in the autumn rises to the in and grass-hoppers, the surface in their pursuit. pursuit. Large barbel, found found in the Loire, are considered considered the best, and roast. The The small may be and may be poached, braised, baked baked or or roast. ones, usually called barbillons, are grilled or fried. Recipes are grilled or fried. for be applied to U.S.A. The The soft for barbel can be to the the catfish of U.S.A. barbel are roes of reputed to are delicate, but the ofbarbel the hard roes are reputed be be poisonous. BoiJed variou sauces. BARBEAU BOUILLI BoUILLI -Boiled barbel barbel with with various sauces. BARBEAU (see COURTPoach Poach the the barbel barbel in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV IV (see BOUILLON). BOUILLOI$. Drain boiled potDrain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish with boiled atoe.s and fr.esh frssh parsley. Serve, as as recommended recommended in individual recipes, recipes, with with melted Butter sauce, santce, melted butter butter or or White White sauce, sauce, Butter Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or Caper Caper sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Barbel Barbel àt la bourguignonne. bornguigDonne. BARBEAU À A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE souncuIGNoNNE -- Proceed as in the recipe as described in recipe for for BrW Brill àd la bourguigbourgaignonne (see BRILL). .

('Paddler') -- Common French name for BARBOTEUR ('Padd.ler') for the the domestic duck. (See DUCK.)

BARD. BARDER -- To of meat, To bard bard means to cover aa piece of to coyer poultry, game or, more rarely, a large fish before braising it, rarely,alarge with thin slices ofbacon string. of bacon or or salt salt or fresh pork, tied with string. After cooking, the barding fat is removed. removed. Its main purpose is meat, or or breast of poultry. of the meat, is to protect delicate delicate parts of It is, is, however, however; customary customary to to serve serve roast game -- woodcock, quail, pheasant, fat or pheasant, partridge, etc. or bacon which etc. -- with the fat was used used for for barding.

pork fat BARDING fat bacon, or or pork fat bacon, n.mon -- Slices Slices of of fat FAT. BARDE BARDING FAT. game, as (fresh or salted) as (fresh as weil well as and game, enveloping poultry and salted) for enveloping 84 84

BARQUETTES various cuts of meat, before they they are.braised, are braised, poached poached or various roasted. roasted. 1Itt is also used for for liningpdt4s liningpâtés cooked pie-cru st and cooked in pie-brust terrines. terrines.

BARIGOULE - Name for a mushroom mushroom which is also ca lied BARIGOULEcalled and bourigoule in in the brigoule the south south of France. It is very brigoule and It is good to eat.

(À LA) Sorne authors LA) -- Some BARIGOULE (A authors of cookery cookery books

given to stutfed say that the term terrn d à la barigoule, barigutle, given stuffed artichokes, na me of the mushroom mushroom which is used in is derived from the name the south-east south-east of France for filling artichokes. of France

BAR-LE-DUC BAR-LE-DUC -- Town in Lorraine which which is is famous for its redcurrant redcurrant jams. BARLEY; of the most ancient BARLEY. ORGE ancient cultivated cultivated cereals, oRGE-- One of which still exists in its original form on the shores of of the Red original forrn and Caspian Seas. Seas. is poorer in gluten than wheat, and its flour Barley grain is does not forrn formed with water. It is form an elastic elastic paste when forrned therefore not suitable ingredient for as an an ingredient for bread. bread. Barley therefore not suitable as (once aa staple which is with wheat (once is generally mixed with bread, which food for is rarely made nowadays. for agricultural labourers), is rarely made good keeping It has good keeping qualities but is difficult to digest. (barley water) of the A infusion (barley the most water) was wzn one one of A barley barley infusion medicines prescribed by Hippocrates. Hippocrates. Barley water popular medicines (I! g. (l-! 20 g. is it, wash wash 20 is refreshing and and emollient. To prepare it, emollient. To in 1I litre tablespoons, 2 tablespoons) pearl barley, and boil in (1|i pints, generous quart) water (1 water until cooked. Leave to stand for back of a and press well well with with the back for aa short time, time, strain, strain, and wooden spoon. spoon. A tisane, which is slightly slightly laxative, is made in the proportion of 1I to 2 tablespoons to 1I litre (scant quart, tablespoons barley water to generous quart) water. generous is beneficial in in feverish feverish This tisane tisane is water. This conditions. conditions. Barley is used in cookery in the form of hulled barley and porridge pearl barley, pearl barley, mainly used for creams, porridge mainly used for soups, soups, creams, (bouillie), and (see MUTTON, garnish for (bouillie), ragoitts (see and as as garnish for ragoûts Ragoût of Ragoitt of mutton with barley). flakes and and barley flour are are used used to lighten cereal Barley flakes barley flour to lighten produces malt (q.v.). germinated barley produces Artificially germinated diets. Artificially D'oRGE -Cook 250 g. Barley sucRE D'ORGE Barley sugar sugar (confection). SUCRE - Cook 250 (4| quarts, 5-! 5] quarts) (9 oz., li cups) hulled barley in 5 litres (4-! oz.,l| water for for 5 hours. the liquid liquid (which resembles white hours. Strain Strain the jelly) and previously cooked cooked to jelly) and decant. Add sorne sugar, previously decant. Add some sugar, (l10"C., 230°F.) soufr6 degree (110°C., soufflé 230"F.) to until to this liquid, and cook until (150"C., 302°F.). sugar reaches reaches crack degree (150°C., sugar Pour onto an 302"F.). Pour oiled marble slab (or oiled metal sheet) and when it begins to cool, cut into long strips strips and twist. This is the original method of making barley sugar sticks. are now now made from They are from drawn drawn sugar. prnrf Consomm6 with pearl barley. CONsOMMÉ Consommé A L'ORGE r'oRcE PERLÉcoNsourrd À lN g. (4 oz., Wash 100 generous -!] cup) pearl barley oz.,generous barley in warrn warm water (4* pints, add it to pints, 5-! pints) consommé to 2-! 2+ litres litres (4-! 5| pints) and add consomm6 (meat stock). Add aa stalk of celery, and simmer slowly for 2 hours. Cream of barley soup -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS. Hulled barley barley broth. nfcocrroN D'ORGE Hulled broth. DÉCOCTION D'oRcE MONDÉ MoNDf -- Wash (4 oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., generous -!* cup) hulled hulled barley in warm warm water, (3 quarts, 7-! and soak soak in in 3-! pints) cold 3| litres litres (3 and 7| pints) cold water for for an g. (4 hour. Add 25 g. teaspoons) salt, 2 carrots, 1 onion studded @ teaspoons) with aa clove, 44leeks leeks and and 2 stalks celery. Simmer very very slowly for 33 hours, hours, and and strain. slowly for strain. This This barley is most refreshing. broth is Mutton broth with barley barley -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS, Mutton broth.

Barnacles

and regions flie, bassin, jamble jamble and for example, regions of France, for example, flie, of France, arapède. arapide. eaten raw, or with vinaigrette 1Its ts flesh is rather tough and is eaten dressing. dressing. Small limpets can be prepared like mussels, while can be grilled, or the large ones are butter and grilled, are often brushed with butter' en mate/ote, matelote, etc. etc. prepared àd l'américaine, l'amiricaine, en BERNACLE -- Bird Bird of BARNACLE BARNACHE, BERNACLE BARNACL,E GOOSE. GOOSE. BARNAcI{E, greyleg goose. goose. It passage resembling the greyleg It isis also also called called oiepassage marine (sea goose) in France. marine Barnacle geese winter on the coasts of Europe. Their Their flesh Barnacle is edible is the the same same as as for is edible but but indigestible. Preparation Preparation is bustard (q.v.).

joint of of mutton BARON -- This is the French French name of of a large joint comprising the The term is also comprising le and term is legs. The the sadd saddle and the the two two legs. applied to to lamb. piece of beef: beef : a baron In England, it is only used for a large piece used mostly U.S.A. the term is used of beef, or double sirloin. In U.S.A. hindquarters (both legs and both loins) oflamb. of lamb. for the hindquarters anecdote is is told about about baron baron or sirloin of of The following anecdote fond of beef. King Henry VIII, who was aa hearty eater, was fond roast beef. One day, delighted by the sight of aa double loin it. The noble set before him, him, he he conferred knighthood upon it. has been sanctioned by title bestowed bestowed on this piece of beef has on this is known day as known to this day as sirloin sirloin or baron custom, and and the cut is of beef. as aa roast, roast, and and someThe sirloin is generally prepared as The sirloin is where the dish is is much In England, where times times cooked on aa spit. In the dish pudding, which it isis served with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, which is esteemed, it served with pan under under the made from from batter made batter cooked cooked in in the the dripping pan joint. roasting joint. garnished Barons of mutton or lamb are are also also roasted, roasted, garnished Barons of mutton or lamb vegetables; or they can be served with their their own gravy, with vegetabJes; and garnished with with watercress. and filled with with various BARQUETTES BARQLIETTES -- Oval Oval tartlet tartlet shells shells filled compositions compositions before before cooking. cooking. They They can can be be baked baked blind (empty) and and then then filled. Barquettes are also used for aa small hors-d'œuvre Barquettes hors-d'euvre (q.v.) or aa TARTLETS. e ntr de. (For more sweet sw eet barquettes, b ar que t t e s, see see T ARTLETS.)) small small entrée. ABRrcors -- Make I. BARQUETTES AUx ABRICOTS Apricot barquettes barquettes 1. sAReuerrEs AUX (9 oz., 2* g. (9 2f cups) sieved Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) sieved Flaky DOUGH) with 250 250 g. flour, scant teaspoon salt, 21 2| teaspoons sugar, 1I egg yolk, 150 generous I cup) butter and and 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant g. (5 oz., generous1cuP) 1l cup) water. "rrp) ($ inch) cut out the paste to aa thickness thickness of 3 to 4 mm. (t Roll out pastry-cutter and fluted oval line boat-shaped out oval pastry-cutter and line out with with aa fluted boat-shaped tartlet tarti et tins tins with with the the ovals. ovals. Prick the the bottom of the the paste to to prevent it rising ring baking. rising du during baking. Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar.

BARNACLE. BERNICLE suRNrcrs -- Common BARNACLE. Common name name for for the the limpet, the mollusc with the conical shell that attaches itselfto itself to rocks on the seashore. It is on is known known by by various names in in ditferent different 85

BARREL

Making ttes (Inr o us s e) Making barque barquettes (Larousse)

Stone Stone and and quarter quarter fresh fresh apricots, apricots, and and arrange arrange in in the tartlets, tartlets, skin side side down. Bake Bake in a moderate moderate oven oyen (180oC., (180°C., 350oF., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for about about 20 20 minutes. minutes. Take the the tartlets tartlets 350°F., Gas out of of the the tins tins and cool them them on a wire cake tray. Spoon Spoon apricot apricot jam jam into into them. them. Break Break the the apricot stones, stones, blanch blanch the the kernels, kernels, and and put two two halves ha Ives on on each tartlet. tarti et. Apricd barquettes II. sA,neuETrES BARQUETIES Arrx AUX ABRrcors ABRICOTS -- As in Apricot barquettes preceding puff pastry pastry instead instead of flaky pastry. pastry. preceding recipe, recipe, using using puff Apricot à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BAReTJETTES BARQUElTES Aux AUX ABRJABRIApricot barquettes barquettes A cors COTS A À L'ANcIENM L'ANCIENNE - Fill Fill flaky pastry pastry tartlets tartlets with vanillavanillaflavoured tter cream Butter cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Decorate Decorate with with halves halves flavoured .Ba

(49| (49t gallons, gallons, 62 62 gallons), gallons), in in Cognac about 205 205 litres litres (45 gallons, 56 gallons), in Mdcon Mâcon about about 213 litres (47 gallons, gaJlons, 58| gal58t gallons), and in Nantes, 2l0litres 210 litres (46 gallons, 57t 571 gallons). Ions).

BARROT - French ivord word for for a a small small barrel barrel containing containing anchovies; anchovies; the term term applies only to anchovy barrels.

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BARSAC -- Commune Commune in in the Gironde that has has given given its name name to a fine white white Bordeaux Bordeaux wine. Barsac Barsac has has the right to appellation Sauternes. Sauternes. (See BORDEALIX.) BORDEAUX.) the appellatrbn BASELLA BASELLA flndian (lndian spinach). spinach). BASELLE -- Edible plant, native of tropical countries, countries, cultivated cultivated in some sorne parts of of France. It of

of of blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crvstallised crystallised cherries. cherries.

is is prepared prepared in the the same way as spinach. spinach.

BASIL. BASIL. BAsILtc BASILIC -- Plant Plant cultivated cultivated in in gardens gardens for the sake of its fragrance. fragrance. There There are several several varieties: varieties: sweet sweet basil, basil, the leaves which are leaves of ofwhich are dried dried and and used used as as a condiment condiment in cookery; cookery; monk's monk 's basil, basil, which can can be be similarly preserved; and bush and, bush

Dcstl, bas il, which is is often often grown grown as as a a pot herb. herb. It'is Itis used used in Provenca, together with with garlic, garlic, for for flavornng flavouring pistou, pistou, a Provence, together popular popular soup soup in in this this region. Basil once considered considered aa royal royal plant; plant; only only the the soverergn soverelgn Basil was was once (basilats) (basileus) could cut it, and even ev en then then only with a golden plant has has now now come come into common common use. use. sickle. The plant

Basil Savoury Savoury barquettes barquettes

BARREL. BARREL. BARIL BARIL -- Small Small cask cask of of variable variable capacity, capacity, usually usually 72 (l5~ gallons, gallons, l9it 19i gallons) gallons) used used as as aa container container for for 72 litres litres (15f brandy, vinegar, vinegar, oil, oil, anchovies, anchovies, herrings herrings or or other other fish, fish, olives, olives, brandy, of wine wine in in Britain Britain amounts amounts to to ll5 115 litres litres (25 (25 etc. A A barrel barrel of etc. gallons, 31 gallons), gallons), in in Tuscany Tuscany 20 20 litres litres (4f (41 gallons, gallons, 5f 5t gallons, 3l gallons). gallons). BASQUAISE (A (À LA) LA) -- Garnish Garnish for for large large cuts cuts of of meat meat BASQUAISE

BARRIQUE -- Large Large cask cask or or barrel barrel used used for for transporting transporting BARRIQUE liquids in in France. France. Its Its capacity capacity varies varies in in different different regions. regions. In In liquids Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in in the the south south of of France France itit is is about about 225litres 225 litres

composed of offried cèpes andAnna and Anna potatoesin potatoes in dariole dariole moulds moulds composed fried cCpes sprinkled with with chopped chopped Bayonne Bayonne ham. ham. sprinkled 86 86

BASS BASS BAS-ROND -- Term Term incorrectly incorrectly used used in in sorne some cookery cookery books books BAS-ROND instead of of baron (q.v.). baron (q.v.). instead

pieces. Cook Cut the the bass bassinto into unifonn uniform pieces. Cookasasdescribed described ininthe the Cut recipe for (see BRILL). for Curried Curuied fillets ofbrill brill(see BRILL). recipe fillets of Bass Dugléré. Dugl6r6. BAR nen DUGLÉRÉ oucr,6nf- - Scale Scale aabass bass weighing weighingabout about Bass (1* lb.). Cut g.(li-Ib.). 750 g. pieces of Cut into intopieces ofequal equal size. size. Melt Meltsorne some butter butter 750 inaasauté pan, and saut6 pan, andadd add11tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion,44peeled, in peeled, seededandchopped and chopped tomatoes, tomatoes,1Itablespoon tablespoon coarselychopped coarselychopped seeded parsley, aasprig quarter of sprig of of thyrne, pinch thyme, quarter of aabay bayleaf, leaf,and andaapinch parsley, garlic. Put ofgrated Put the bass on the bass on this thisfoundation, foundation,season, and season, and of grated garlic. moisten with pint, i3cup) with It 1+dl. dl.(t$ pint, cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Bring Bring toto moisten pan, and the boil, boil, coyer cover the the pan, and transfer transfer itit to to the theoyen, oven,cooking cooking the for 12 12 to to 1515 minutes. minutes. Drain piecesof Drain the the pieces of bass bassand arrange and arrange for them on on aa dish dish in in the fish. theshape shape of of the the fish. them Remove the the thyme thyme and and bay pan, add bay leaf leaf from from the thepan, add 60 Remove 60 g.g. (2! oz., oz., 1* cup) cup) butter butter and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) (2t (see SAUCE) VeloutC sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made of of fish fish stock. Velouté stock. Pour Pour the the sauce over over the fish and the fish and sprinkle parsley. sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. sauce Alternatively, instead instead ofusing of using velouté velouti sauce, sauce, thicken with aa Alternatively, thicken with tablespoon of kneaded butter, of kneaded butter, or tablespoon or with with j tablespoon tablespoon Bour flour mixed with with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 mixed tablespoons) water; water; this this last last isis called àdlameuniire. caUed la meunière. Fillets of of bass. bass. FILETS DE BAR BAR -- Bass FrLErs DE Fillets prepared Bass isis not not often often prepared in fillets, fillets, but but when when this in this method method isis adopted, adopted, the the fillets fillets should should be skinned skinned and and weil be given for well trimmed. trimmed. Ali All the the recipes recipes given for whole whole given for (U.S. porgy well as bass, as as weil as those those given for bream bass, porgy or bream (U.S. or scup), scup), mullet or or river river trou muilet t, can trout, can be be applied applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass.So So can can given for recipes given recipes for fresh fresh cod, whiting, mackerel mackerel and, generally, cod, whiting, and, generally, for ail all sea for fish. sea fish. Fried bass. bass. BAR FRrr -- This Fried BAR FRIT This method method isis suitable for smallsuitable for smallsize size bass. bass. Scale Scale the the fish, fish, make make aa few few slits, and soak slits, and soak itit in in salted salted milk which milk which has has been been boiled get cold boiled and and allowed allowed to to get cold.. Dredge Dredge with with Bour flour and and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling oil. sizzling oil. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, sprinkle garnish witb sprinkle with with fine fine salt, salt, and and garnisb with fried fried parsley and parsley and slices lemon.. slices of of lemon When When no no small are available, small bass bass are available, large large fish, fish, eut cut into into slices slices or or steaks, prepared in steaks, can can be be prepared in the the same same way. way. Bass au gratin BAR Bass au gratin. BAR AU AU GRATIN GRATTN -- This This metbod method isis mostly mostly applied applied to to fillets fillets of of bass. bass. Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for gratin (see (see SOLE). for Sole Sole au au gratin SOLE).

BASS. BAR sAR -- This This fish, fish, which which isis also also called called sea sea dace, dace, sea wolf sea wolf BASS. or sea perch abounds sea perch abounds in in the the Mediterranean. Meditgrranean. ItIt isis also also found, found, or in srnaller smaller numbers, numbers, in in the the Atlantic Atlantic Ocean. Ocean. Bass Bass does does not not in normally go go beyond beyond the the English English Channel, Channel, and and rarely rarely penepenenonnally trates into into the the Baltic. Baltic. trates . Two species species are are known: known: the (sea wolf) the common common bass bass (sea wolf) on on Two the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast, coast, and and striped striped bass. Dass. The The common common the Dass is is seen great deal seen aa great deal in in French French markets, markets, and and isis recogrecogbass nisable by by its its silvery, grey-blue back silvery, grey-blue back and and white white belly. belly. The The nisable bass of of the the U.S.A., U.S.A., while while not prepared not exactly exactly the the sa same, bass me, isis prepared in the the same gastronomes do same way. way. Sorne Some gastronomes do not not admit admit that that the the in flesh of particular delicacy, of the bass bass has any any particular delicacy, but but many many people people flesh like it. it. like prepare. Clean To prepare. fish through Clean the the fish gills and through the the gills and through through aa To light incision incision.made on the the belly. belly. Do Do not not scale scale the the bass bass if if itit isis made on light poached, but scale be poached, it, without scale it, without breaking breaking the the skin, if itit isis skin, if to be to be be braised, braised, fried grilled. Wash fried or or grilled. Wash and and dry dry the the fish. fish. to few light light incisions on part of on the the fleshy fleshy part of the the back, back, Make aa few slit itit along along the the backbone, or or cut cut into into unifonn-sized pieces; uniform-sized pieces; proceed according to to the the recipe recipe cbosen chosen.. proceed

t

Bass

Boiled or poached bass or poacbed bass with with various various sauces. Boiled sauoes. BAR BAR BOUILLI BourLLr into Court-bouillon III (see (see COURTBOUILLON). BOUILLON). As soon as it boils, draw the pan to to the edge edge of of the burner, and poach, simmering simmering lightly. Drain the bass, and and garnish with fresh parsley. garnish Serve with melted butter, or with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce or Serve or any any (see SAUCE). other sauce recommended recommended for boiled fisb fish (see SAUCE). poached fish, Boiled all poached Boiled bass, bass, like ail fish, is is served served with with steamed or boiled potatoes. Braised bass witb with various sauces garnishes. BAR sauoes and and garnisbes. sAR BRAISÉ nRArsf -- Clean the bass, bas s, and and spread the inside inside with aa large piece of butter which which has has been been kneaded kneaded with parsley and with chopped chopped parsley and pui it in pepper. Season seasoned with salt and pepper. outside. Put Season the thJoutside. in a fish kettle on a foundation of sbredded ions shredded carrots and and on onions lightly Iightly fried in butter. Add (q.v.). Moisten Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.). with with dry dry white wine; for a bass weighing 1I kg. (2i (2f lb.) use 33 dl. (} (t pint, pint, lf li cups) cups) wine. wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) melted butter. butter. Bring to to the boil, then transfer the the fish kettle kettle to the oyen oven and cook, uncovered, uncoverecl, for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes, basting basting frequently. frequently. . minutes, Drain Drain the the bass and arrange braising arrange on a dish. Reduce the braising fish. Add the gamish. liquor, add butter, and pour over the fish. garnish. Serve with Espagnole sauce (made with fish stock) or with Serve AlI gamishes recommended for Velouté (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). All Velouti garnishes recommended fish are suitable for bass (see (see BRILL, BRILL, TURlarge braised fish SALMON). BOT, SALMON). bass with witbvarious FROID - Cook the fish, fish, Cold bass various sauces. BAR FRorD whole or in large large pieces, in Court-bouillon (see COURTwhole Court-bouillon III (see COURTBOUILLON). Allow Allow to to cool cool in in the the liquor. Iiquor. Drain, Drain, and BOUILLOI$. garnish garnish with fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with aa cold sauce. sauce. bass can also be prepared by following one Cold bass one of the recipes given given for salmon and salmon trout. Cooked in courtrecipes Cookd,in bouillon, it can can also also be be served served with with the garnishes garnishes used used for for large bouillon,it cold fish, fish, such su ch as hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stuffed artichoke articboke hearts, hearts, cold lettuce hearts, hearts, macidoines macédoines of of vegetables, vegetables, etc. etc. lettuce Curried bass bass ià I'indienne. l'indienne. BAR AU AU cuRRrE. CURRIE, A À r'lNorENNs L'INDIENNE Curied pocn6 - Put the bass ou pocHÉ OU -

Double grill for Double grill for small small fish fish

Grilled bass bass witb with various various sauces. sauces. BAR sAR GRILLÉ cRrr,r"6 -- This This method method is applied to bass of of medium size. Scale the to bass size. Scale the fish, fish, make make aa few few shallow incisions, season, season, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, brush brush with with oil oil or melted butter, grill on or melted butter, and and grill on aa moderate moderate heat. heat. Turn the bass once during cooking, the bass cooking, and and baste baste with with oi! once during oil or or melted melted butter from from time time to to time. time. Gamish parsley, and Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley, and surround surround witb with slices slices of of decoratively decoratively eut cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Maitre Malte d'hôtel dh\tel buller, butter, Anchovy buller, (see BUTTER), butter, Ravigote Ravigote buller butter (see BUTTER), or or one one of of the special grilled fish special sauces sauces recommended recommended for for grilled fish.. Bass Bass ài la la livornaise. livornaise. BAR nln ÀA LA LA LlVORNAISE LrvoRNAnn -- This This metbod method isis suitable for for small-size bass. Scale Scale 44 bass, put small-size bass. bass, season, and put season, and them in them in aa well-buttered well-buttered or or oiled oiled fireproof fireproof dish dish on foundation on aa foundation t, scant consisting of pint, (see dl. (1 Tomato fondue of 22 dl. cup) Tomato scant cup) $ pin fon&te (see FONDUE) ion, and plenty of FONDUE) mixed mixed with with plenty of chopped chopped on onion, and flavoured with aa pinch pinch of of pounded garlic. Scatter breadcrumbs breadcrumbs on on top, top, sprinkle with oil, and cook oil, and sprinkle with cook in the in the oyen oven for for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped 1?arsley parsley before before serving. serving.

87 8',1

BASTE BASTE BÂTONNETS or or BATONS BÂTONS - Various Various preparations preparations shaped shaped BATONhIETS the form of of little little sticks. sticks. in the BÂTONNETS ALlx AUX AMANDES AMANDES -- Fancy Fancy Almond bfltonnets. bâtonnets. sAroNNETs A}nond biscuits (cookies), (cookies), which come into into the the category of of petits petits biscuits fours. fours. Pound 250 250 e. g. O (9 oz., oz., l| li cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds in in a mortar mortar Pound 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine hne sugar. sugar. Turn into into a bowl bowl with 250 and mix mix witn with f3 egg whites and 11 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ft rum. Blend Blend thoroughly thoroughly into a smooth smooth paste paste and and roll roI! out cup) rum. (l inch) inch) thick thick on on a marble marble slab siab lightly lightly dusted dusted with with flour. fiOUL 22 cm. Q Cut the the paste paste into strips 8 cm. (3 inches) inches) wide, and cut eut the the Cut cm. (| into bdtonnets,2 bâtonnets, 2 cm. (i inch) wide. wide. Dip Dip them them into into strips into strips beaten egg white then into crystallised sugar. Brush lightly beaten wilh butter, butter, sprinkle sprinkle with flour, and bake the the baking trays with bâtonnets in a moderate oven oyen (180'C., (I80°e., 350'F., 350°F., Gas Mark 4). bdtonnets Bfltom BâtollS with vanilla vallilla icing. king. rAroNs BÂTONS cr,lcfs GLACÉS A ,\ rn LA vlmns VANILLE Pound Pound 250 g. (9 o2.,lfr OZ., li cups) cups) blanched almonds with 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar in a mortar. mortar. Turn Turn into a basin basm and add 33 egg egg whites whites and and f1teaspoon teaspoon vanilla vanilla extract. ex tract. Blend Blend the and lightly floured ftoured marble marble mixture thoroughly and roll out on a lightly (} nch) thick and about slab until the paste is I1 cm.
Bass Ià la la meunibre. meUllière. sAR BAR A À rA LA l{suminr MEUNIÈRESuitable for for small5mallBass - Suitable make a few few incisions, Incisions, sprinkle with with bass. Scale them, them, make size bass. /lour, and and cook cook in in a frying frying pan pan in in butter. butter. Use Use an oval-shaped ovaJ-shaped flour, pan, if if possible. possible. pan, When the the fish fish is is cooked cooked and golden on both both sides, place place When dish and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and a few few drops drops on aa dish of lemon lemon juice. juice. of Heat the butter butter left in in the pan pan until it browns, browns, adding adding more if if necessary, necessary, and pour it over the the fish. Bass Bass prepared prepared more this way may may be be served with various various garnishes garnishes (see (sec SOLE, SOLE, in this meunière). Sole meuniire). Bass Ià la portugaise portugaise I. 1. n.m BAR A ,\ L,c. LA ponrucAlsE PORTUGAISE - Scale Scale a bass bass Bass weighing about 300-400 300-400 g. (t (ilb.). lightly along along the back, lb.). Slit lightly weighing buttered pan. pan. season, and put into a buttered quantities of white white wine and concentrated fish Boil equal quantities afume/ (q.v.), (q.v.), pour pour over over the fish, and cook in stock down to afumet pan for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Drain the the bass, put in in a the covered pan fueproof dish, and surround surround with a border border of thick Tomato fireproof fondue (sec FONDUE). Boil Boil down down the the pan juices, juices, add add 33 (see FONDUE). fondue tablespoons (scant (scant IJ cup) cup) Veloutd Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based tablespoons fJsh stock and some sorne butter, butter, and pour pour it over over the bass. on fish Glaze in a a very very hot hot oven, oyen, and and sprinkle with with chopped Glazn in parsley before serving. serving. ponrucAlsE -- Proceed portugaise Il. BAR A À L.c, LA PORTCGAISE Proceed as Bass ài la portugaise II. sAR described for Bass Bass Dugliri Dugléré (but (but leaving leaving the the fish fish whole). described for Place in a fireproof dish. Boil down the pan juices, to which butter has has been been added, pour pour over ovcr the the fish, fish, sprinkle sorne sprinkle some butter glaze in a very with breadcrumbs, and very hot hot oven. oyen. and glaze with pnowNqALE - Scale the BAR A ,\ rn LA PROVENÇALE provençale. san la provengale. Bass à la bass, make aa few few shallow flour, and and fry dredge with with flour, shallow slits, slits, dredge bass, oil. briskly in oiL When cooked and put the sides, put on both sides, and golden brown on When sauce (see fish in in aa fireproof fireproof dish, Provençale sauce wfth Provengale dish, cover cover with fish SAUCE), sprinkle brcadcrumbs and and brown and oil, oil, and with breadcrumbs sprinkle with in aa hot hot oyen few minutes. for aa few oven for SprinkJe parsley before serving. serving. with chopped parsley Sprinkle with garnishes. BAR BAR BRAIS6 BRAISÉ Stuffed variou garnishes. bass with with variollS braised bass Strffed braised FARCI bass with forcemeats special forcemeats with one one of of the the special FARcr - Stuff Stuff aa bass recommended for bove. it as as described described aabove. fish. Braise Braise it large fish. for large

i

a

Chocolate Chocolate bfltonnets. bâtonnets. sAroNNErs BÂTONNETS AU AU cHocot,lr CHOCOLAT - Proceed

ll

as in the recipe for Almond bdtonnets, using 250 g. Almond bâtonne/s, g. (9 oz., oz., li recipe for oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 200 g. cups) almonds, 250 g. (9 OZ., g.

-

(l o2.,2 oz.,lf 25 g., tablespoons) vanillaOZ., 11 cups) cups) coc
(7 (7

-

-

BASTE. JUTER -- To braising stock roasting or stock over pour roasting or braising To pour aa joint in to keep it moist during cooking. in order to

made from DE JACOB sAroNs DE Cakes made JAcoB -- Cakes bfitom. BÂTONS Jacob's Jacob's bâtons. (see DOUGH) paste (see Chou Chou pasœ DOUGH) in the shape of little hollow sticks sugar pastry cream, and coated on top with sugar filled with French French pastry

BAT·culinary term for tail offish. of fish. The length offish of fish BAT - French culinary is is measured from from eye eye to to tail.

ü (150'C., 302 ECLAIR.) 302'F.). cooked to crack dcgree F.). (See ÉCLAIR.) degree (lsoac., RoYALrx -- Roll (hot hors-d'oeuvre). hors-d'oeuwe). BÂTONS sAroNs ROYAUX bitons (hot Royal Royal bâtons rectangles. cut into small rectangles. of shortcrust paste and cut out out aa piece of with Chicken Chicken and partridge each with middle of each partridge forceFill Fill the the middle force(see FORCEMEAT). ends each piece, sealing the ends meat (see FORCEMEAT). Roll each fried parsley. weil. well. Deep-fry in smoking smoking hot fat. Garnish with fried

BAT. provided with mammal provided with BAT. CHAUVE-SOURIS cn,c,uvE-souRrs -- Small Small mammal membranous The meat meat is membranous wings wings which which enable enable itit to to /ly. fly. The esteemcd in China. in certain oriental countries, notably notably in esteemed in BA-T A-CLk"ll -- Pastry dessert have been been invented dessert said to bave said to BA-TA-CLAN pastry-cook. It by It isis still still Parisian pastry-cook. celebrated Parisian Lacam, the the celebrated by Lacam, made Paris cake cake shops. shops. in high-c1ass made in high-class Paris almonds in in Pound 250 li cups) freshly blanched (9 oz., g. (9 blanched almonds 250 g. oz.,l| aa mortar. by one; one; add 99 eggs, one by and add eggs, one Turn into into aa bowl, bowl, aod mortar. Turn g. (13 (13 oz., mix 11: cups) Add 375 cups) fine fine sugar flavoured mix weil. well. Add 375 g. oz.,lt sugar ftavoured g. (6 tabJespoons, 125 g. with rum, 125 cup) rum, scant 1 vanilla, lI dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with vanilla, * cup) quite (4 (4 oz., until quite and mix mix thoroughly flour, and thoroughly until cup) sieved o2.,11 cup) sieved /lour, smooth. smooth. Pour and bake bake in in aa fluted edges with fluted edges and into aa sballow tin with shallow tin Pour into and coyer cover moderate leave to cool, and to cool, cooked, leave When cooked, moderate oYen. oven. When with icing. vanilla icing. with vanilla

pArs A FRIRE Frying balter batter 1I rnns -- Fryiog FOR FRYING. FRYING. PÂTÉ,\ BATTERS FOR (12 OZ., 'Sift 350 g. (12 flour into into aa (Car0me's recipe) -- 'Sift cups) flour 350 g. o2.,33 cups) (Carème's (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. oz., in which which 50 warmed water in mix with sligbtly bowl, bowl, mix slightly warmed paste, free from free from melted. Stir to aa soft soft paste, has been been me/ted. Stir to butter has ;\-* cup) butter (3 ta tablespoons) and 2 ta salt and tablespoons lumps. Add aa pinch of salt blespoons (3 blespoons) whites. egg whites. in 22 stiffiy fold in and fold well, and stiffiy whisked egg brandy, brandy, stir stir weil, Use at at once.' once.' Use (9 oz., g. (9 flour, 1I cups) sifted sifted flour, 250 g. oz.,2f Mix 250 Frying batter lltr- Mix Frying 2! cups) (| pint, pint, seant pint, t3 cup) dl. (t scant cup) beer, beer, 22 dl. l] dl. dl. (i oil, If tablespoon tablespoon oil, $ pint, into aa smooth smooth brandy into tablespoon brandy and aa tablespoon warm water water and cup) cup) warm in using, fold fold in pinch of fine salt. Just before using, of fine salt. Just adding aa pinch batter, batter, adding whites. egg whites. whisked egg 22 stiffiy stiffiy whisked Mix (for fruit glazed in the oven)oven) - Mix fruit fritters fritters glazed in the batter (for Frying baller Frying g. 250 g. previous recipe, recipe, using using 250 in the as dcscribed described in the previous the batter as the batter (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) (9 OZ., flour, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 cups) sifted sifted flour, o2.,2| (9 2! cups) (+ pint, (+ pint, pint, scant pint, t] cup) scant dl. (t cup) beer, beer, 22 dl. 1+ dl. dl. (i melted butter, butter, 1+ melted pinch of of brandy, aa pinch egg, 1I tablespoon tablespoon brandy, cup) water, one one whole whole egg, cup) water, pinch of and aa pinch of salt. salt. sugar sugar and

(see SAUCE). BÂTARDE given to SAUCE). Butter sauce sauce JI (sec to Buller Name givcn BATARDE -- Name

BAT AVlA -- Variety in summer in season summer hearted lelluce lettuce in season in Variety of of hearted BATAVIA or winter. or winter. glass or metal conconBATEAUX or metal name for for china, china, glass French name BATEAUX - French tainers They are for serving cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. They are usually usually used for serving cold tainers used boat-shaped, name. hence their their name. boat-shaped, hence 88 88

formal occasion and Chabot. Phot. /\rico!as) Nicolas) Buffet set set out out ror for aa formaI occasion(Potel Chabot. Phof. Buffe! (Potet wu!

CREAM BAVARIAN BA V ARIAN CREAM hours in the iced water, water, COyer chill for 2 hours with white paper, and chili cover with refrigerator, or on crushed ice. refrigerator, it wipe it hbt water, wipe dip the mould in hot the bavarois, dipthe To loosen tlie dry, and turn turn into a dish. flayoured wlth wrth for bavarois used for bavarois flavoured The same recipe may be used (anisette, chocolate, tea, brandies coffee, chocolate, brandies and various liqueurs (anisette,

After After mixing, mixing, keep in a warm place to ferment. Just before using, whisk the batter. glaze fruit fritters, drain after frying, place on a To glaze a metal icing sugar, sprinkled with with icing sheet which which has has been been lightly lightly sprinkled sheet oyen. and set in a hot oven. Frnng The batter should Fryiog batter (for vegetable fritters) - The be prepared at least an hour before use. g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour with 4 tablespoons Mix 250 g. oz.,2f (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter, 2 whole eggs, a good pinch of salt, and enough water to make not too thick aa batter. Frnng Frying batter (for (for meat and fisb fish fritters) -- Put 250 g. (9 oz., 2i cups) sifted flour into aa bowl. bowl. Make aa weil 2| well in in the centre centre (5 tablespoons) oil or melted and put into it 4 tablespoons (5 butter, 4 dl. (* (à- pint, scant 2 cups) slightly butter,4 slightly warmed water, and a good pinch of salt. wood en spoon. spoon. well with a wooden salt. Mix weil Just before using, fold in 4 stiffiy stiffy whisked egg whites. (12o2.,33 cups) Frying batter (i Frying (à la provengate) provençale) --'Mix 'Mix 350 g. (l20z., (5 tablespoons) Aix yolks,44 tablespoons egg yolks, sieved flour, 2 egg tablespoons (5 oil, and enough enough cold water to make make a soft paste. Add a small pinch of salt, fold in 22 stiffiy salt, and and fold stifry whisked egg egg whites. Use (Car6me's recipe). at once.' (Carême's Batters (sweet) -- See DOUGH.

Armagnac, Calvados, fine Champagne Champagne brandy, Calvados, Curaçao, Curagao, fine Armagnac, kirsch, kummel, kummel; rum, etc.), lemon, tangerine, orange, praline of burnt almond, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, etc. A LA r.l CÉVENOLEcfvrNors BAvARoIs À cream la cévenole. c6venole. BAVAROIS Bavarian cre am ài la Fill with aa ueam. FiII Bavarian cream. Coat a mould with layer of with a layer of Basic Bavarian glacds, pur6e of marrons glacés, mixture of of marrons mixture of this this cream cream and and aa purée refrigerator. flavoured with kirsch. Chill in the refrigerator. decorate with and decorate Turn'out dish, and Turn . out the the bavarois bavarois onto onto aa dish, (see CREAMS). with marrons Surround with Chantilly cream CREAMS). Surround Chantilly cream (see glacis. glacés. Coatt aa A LA r,c, CRÉOLE cRforn -- Coa Bavarian cream àA la créole. BAVARoIS Bavarian VAROIS À cr6ole. BA of alternate layers of with sweet mould with sweet almond oil and fill it with alternate rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured Basic Basic Bavarian rum-flavoured and pineapple-flavoured cream) mixed mixed with with a salpicon (q.v.) ofbananas cream, of bananas steeped in rum. (see Turn out with Chantilly cream (see out onto onto aa dish, dish, decorate decorate with Chantilly cream Turn and sprinkle sprinkle with CREAMS) piped through through aa pastry-bag, and blanched, shredded pistachio nuts. blanched, A LA l.l NORMANDE NoRMANDE -Bavarian cream à i la normande. BA slvARots Bavarian VAROIS À Line aa mould mould with with aa layer layer of of Calvados-flavoured Calvados-flavoured Basic Line (see SAUCE) sauce (see cream, fill fill with with thick thick Apple Apple sauce Bavarian cream, gelatine which has been dissolved in water. whisked with gelatine water. whisked Turn out with apple apple quarters out on on aa dish dish and and surround Turn surround with peeled, cooked Top with whipped cooked in syrup, and weil wbll drained. Top peeled, cream.

BA VAROIS -- Cold sweet once known BAvARoIs Traiti in his his Traité fromage bavarois, the name name Carême Car€me gives it in fromage des entremets de douceur. given to it by aa French chef who The name bavarois bavarois was given practised practised his art in a stately stately home in Bavaria. This not be confused This dish, consistency, should be confused dish, of solid should not solid consistency, liquid preparation known as the with the liquid known as the bavaroise (q.v.), which used to be called crème crDme bavaroise, and, according to which used culinary historians, was invented in Bavaria towards the end culinary historians, of the seventeenth century. quite differently differently The bavarois was prepared quite bavarois in in past days days was present-day methods; the mixture mixture was bound only with from pre,sent-day clarified some modern clarified isinglass, not with with egg yolks, as used in sorne reClpes. recipes.

BA V ARIAN CREAM. BAVARIAN CREAM. as as

Bavarian cream, cream, after after Carême Car€me Bavarian

(CarGme). FROMAGE parfait amour FRoMAGE amour (Carême). Bavarian Bavarian cream cream au au parfait peel of 'Shred half half the the peel of aa - 'Shred shredded lemon, lemon very finely. Boil 2 cups milk, add the the shredded (8 oz., g. (8 Leave to cup) sugar. sugar. Leave to 66 crushed and 225 225 g. oz., 1I cup) crushed cloves cloves and infuse for an and strain through aa muslin cloth cloth into aa infuse an hour, hour, and (l oz.) g. (1 and clarified clarified isinbasin. basin. Add Add 25 25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warmed and glass, and basin glass, and aa few few drops drops of of cochineal cochineal essence. Put Put the the basin As soon as as the the mixture mixture begins to to set, fold into aa bowl bowl of of ice. As set, fold in whipped cream.' in (Car0me). FROMAGE pistachio nuts FRoMAGE Bavarian Bavarian cream cream witb with pistachio nuts (Carême). 'Shell about pisBAVARoIS AUX 100 choice choice pisBAVAROIS AItx NOIX NoD( VERTES vERTEs -- 'Shell about 100 pound them in aa mortar, mortar, and and moisten moisten with with aa tachio tachio nuts, nuts, pound them in le water from time litt little to prevent them them turning oily. oily. time to to time to (8 oz., g. (8 cream. Put Dissolve 225 225 g. cup) sugar in in 22 cups cups cream. Put the the oz., 1I cup) pounded nuts nuts into and add add the cream, aa little little at at aa into aa bowl, bowl, and the cream, time, Leave for for an an hour, hour, and and strain through aa well. Leave time, stirring weiL strain through fine fine sieve. sieve. (l oz.) g. (1 Add warm clarified clarified isinglass isinglass which Add 25 25 g. oz.) slightly slightly warm mixture into into aa has has been been dissolved in aa !ittle little water. water. Pour Pour the the mixture dissolved in place on ice mould shed ice mould or terrine, and and place crushed or aa medium-sized terrine, on cru (with aa large for 15 minutes. large silver if posfor 15 minutes. Stir silver spoon, spoon, if well, (with Stir weil, sible) As soon as it it begins sible) and and stir again from from time to to time. time. As soon as stir again to mixture isis to set, all the until aa smooth-flowing smooth-flowing mixture set, stir stir ail the time time until achieved. achieved. Add little at at aa time, until the time, until Add whipped whipped cream, cream, aa httle the bavarois bavarois has has aa velvety texture. Keep on on crushed Keep crushed ice ice for for an an hour hour and before turning turning and aa half before out out onto onto aa dish. dish. pARFArr AMOUR AMoUR BAVAROIS AU PARFAIT BAvARors AU

Bavarian cream cream mould

The following inc\ude include severa] several of Carême's Car0me's recipes. VAROISÀ Basic Bavarian BAvARoIS A LA ra CRÈME cniw-- Blend 500 g.g. Bavarian cream. BA (18 oz., yolks in (18 in aa small small oz., 2! 2f cups) 16 egg egg yolks cups) fine fine sugar sugar and and 16 pinch of salt. pan over low sauce When the saucepan salt. When low heat, heat, adding aa pinch (If; pints, mixture quite smooth mixture isis quite litre (l~ with ]I litre moisten with smooth moisten quart) milk which has generous quart) boiled and and has been been previously boiled (l oz.) gelatine g. (1 gelatine which flavoured with a vanilla bean. Add 25 g. has has been been dissolved until the the Keep stirring dissolved in in cold cold water. water. Keep stirring until mixture is not boil. is thick do not thick enough to coat coat the the spoon; spoon; do enough to Transfer Transfer to aa bowl and leave to cool, frequently fanning it to help the process. process. (lf pints, As soon as the mixture in 1I litre (I~ mixture begins to set, set, fold in (4 oz., g. (4 generous quart) stiffiy whipped cream ~ cup) oz.,1",rp) cream and and 100 g. finesugar. . fine sugar. Pour the bavarois into a mould which has been rinsed with

89 Duck a/sacienm' (Phol. ico/as) (Phot. NNicolas) Drtck à/' d I'alsacienne

BAVARIAN CREAM BA VARIAN CREAM

Bavarian cream cream made made with fruit fruit (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Bavarian

90

BAYONNE BAYONNE Bavarian Bavarian cream cream aux roses roses (Car0me). (Carême). FRoMAGE FROMAGE BAVARoIS BA VAROIS RosBs ROSES -- 'Strip the the petals petaIs ofl off about 30 freshly freshly picked with a pinch of roses, and put put them, them,with of cochineal grains, into roses, and 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., oz., I1 cup) cup) clarified clarified boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. Cover, Coyer, and 225 add 25 when itit has has become become just just warm, add 25 g. g. (l (l oz.) isinglass. isinglass. when Strain the the mixture mixture through muslin into a bowl, and when it Strain begins to set, fold in whipped cream.' begins Bavarian fruit cream. BAVARoIs BAVAROIS ALrx AUX FRUITS - Put into a Bavarian pint,2f, bowl bowl55 dl. (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2i cups) fruit fruit pur6e, purée, 5 dl. (scant pint, 2i (l oz.) cups) cups) heavy heavy (30") (30°) syrup, syrllp, thejuice thejuice of of31emons, 25 g. (l and25 3 lemons, and gelatine gelatine which which has has been been dissolved dissolved in a little water water and strained through muslin. through (scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) cups) whipped weIl, and add I+ litre (scant Blend well, cream. Pour Pour into a mould mould which has been coated with sweet cream. rinsed in ice water) and and leave to set for about almond oil (or rinsed l|1+ hours. (CarOme). FROMAGE BAvAFRoMAcE BAVAMocha coffee Bavarian cream (Carême). ROIS AU cnr6 CAFÉ Mor,c, MOKA1+ cups) mocha coffee oz.,l| Rors - 'Put 175 g. (6 oz., a small fire, heat on on aa moderate fire, small saucepan, and heat beans into a stirring constantly constantly until until they acquire aa reddish-yellow reddish-yellow they acquire stirring is complete as as the as soon the beans become colour. Roasting is soon as oily. 'Drop them into aa basin containing containing 33 cups boiling milk, coyer, and leave until the milk is just warm. Strain through through cover, (l g. (l aa fine clotho 225 g. (8 oz., 25 g. and 25 cloth. Add Add225 oz., 1I cup) sieved sugar and oz.) isinglass. Blend te smooth, and strain again. quite again. Blend until qui 'When the mixture and cream, and mixture begins to set, set, add whipped cream, pour into aa mould. fully set.' set.' mould. Place on on crushed ice until fully Strawberry Rub Aux FRAISES FRAISES -- Rub BAvARoIs AUX cresm. BAVAROIS Strawberry Bavarian cream. 2+ pulp through cup) strawberry through 2| dl. dl. (scant + strawberry pulp ] pint, generous cup) aa fine sieve, generous cup) heavy cup) heavy 2| dl. (scant +I pint, generous sieve, and add 2+ oz.) gelatine syrup (30°), juice of (1o2.) gelatine (30"), the juice g. (! 15 g. and 15 lemon, and of aa lemon, which water and and strained strained which has in aa little little water has been been dissolved dissolved in through (scant !I pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) muslin. Add Add 2! 2+ dl. dl. (scant through muslin. whipped cream cream to the the mixture. Pour in aa rereice, or or in into aa mould chill on crushed ice, and chilI Pour into mould and on crushed frigerator. large with large dish and and surround surround with frigerator. Tum Turn out onto aa dish out onto hulled fine sugar. with fine sugar. hulled strawberries, sprinkled with strawberries, sprinkled Apricot, pear, raspberry and other pineapple, pear, peach, pineapple, raspberry and other Apricot, peach, fruit prepared in way. in the the same same way. fruit bavarois bavaror can can be be prepared Striped BAVARoIS vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream. cream. BAVAROIS and vanilla Striped chocolate chocolate and RUBANÉ (9 oz., g. (9 250 g. oz., nr ÀA LA LA VANILLE VANILLE -- Sift Sift 250 nun.q.N6 AU AU CHOCOLAT cnoeoI-.a.r ET generous yolks and and egg yolks generous cup) add 88 egg into aa saucepan, fin'e sugar saucepan, add cup) fine sugar into aa pinch mixture isis pinch of heat until until the the mixture very low low heat of salt. over very salt. Stir Stir over perfectly (scant pint, pint, 2* 2l cups) cups) milk milk perfectly blended. Boil 55 dl. dl. (scant blended. Boil separately, other to the the other Add slowly slowly to vanilla bean. bean. Add sefarately, add add 1I vanilIa mixture, en thé thti When low heat. heat. Wh mixture, and and stir constantly over over low stir constantly resul ting custard tly to remove to coa coattaaspoon, spoon, remove resulting custard thickens thickens sufficien sufficiently from from the the heat. heat. Strain (2 oz., g. (2 parts. Add 50 g. oz., in two Add 50 and divide divide in two parts. custard and Strain the the custard 22 squares) part, and and blend blend inin to one one part, chocolate to melted chocolate squares) melted whipped whipped cream cream Blend whipped to set. set. Blend cream when when itit begins begins to whipped cream similarly mixture. into the remaining custard custard mixture. the remaining similarly into Rinse Id in almond with sweet in ice ice water, water, or or brush brush with sweet almond Rinse aa mou mould oil. mixtures, taking taking Fill with with alternate alternate layers layers of of the the two two mixtures, oil. Fill care preceding one has set layer until one has set care not not to add aa new new layer until the the preceding to add properly. shed ice, refrigeraice, or properly. Place in the the refrigeracrushed Place the mould on or in on cru the mould tor, To loosen loosen the thebavarois, bavarois, and leave leave to 1| to to 22 hours. hours. To tor, and to set set 1+ dip it, and and tum bavarois mould in in warm water, dry dry it, turnthe the bavarois dip the the mould warm water, into glass dish. into aa glass dish. Striped (various flavours). BAvARoIS flavous). BAVAROIS cream (various Striped Bavarian Bavarian cream RUBANÉS pARFUMs DIVERS asdescribed in the the Proceed as described in DIvERs -- Proceed nuslNfs AUX AUx PARFUMS previous previous recipe. cream can can be bemade made Variegated Bavarian Bavarian cream recipe. Variegated by mixture and strawberry by using alternate layers layers of of vanilla vanilla and strawberry mixture using alternate (or (or any apriandapricoffee, vanilla vanillaand any other red fruit), fruit), vanilla vanilla and and coffee, other red cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. cot, vanilla and pistachio nuts, etc. Vanilla (Car0me). FROMAGE s.avA.nolsÀA FRoMAGEBAVAROIS cream (Carême). Vanilla Bavarian Bavarian cream LA VANILLE - Add aa vanilla andbring bring cups cream creamand to 33cups bean to LA vANTLLE - Add vanilla bean

Aux AUX

cream Bavarian cream Striped Bavarian Striped

cream by by oneonereduce the the cream heat and and reduce the heat Lower the the boil. boil. Lower to to the (l oz.) g. (1 and 25 25 g. oz.) (8 oz., g. (8 cup) sieved sieved sugar sugar and 225 g. oz., 1I cup) third. Add 225 third. Add muslin into into aa through muslin isinglass. Blend Blend thoroughly, thoroughly, strain strain through isinglass. mixture begins begins place on ice. When When the the mixture on crushed crushed ice. basin, and place basin, and cream. fold in in whipped whipped cream. to to set, set, fold ways prepared in in several several ways beverage prepared BA VAROISE -- Pleasant Pleasant beverage BAVAROISE milk, etc. etc. from from tea, tea, syrup, syrup, milk, Bavarian part of century several several Bavarian eighteenth century the eighteenth In In the ofthe the early early part tea habit of of taking taking tea were in in the the habit in Paris Paris were princes princes sojouming sojourning in des Fossés-Saint-GennainFoss6s-Saint-Germainrue des the Café together together at Procope, rue atthe Cafi Procope, but they they (today rue I'Ancienne-Com6die): but des-Prés des-Pr6s (today rue de de l'Ancienne-Comédie): decancrystal decanfrom crystal them from to them insisted be served served to insisted that that itit should ihould be rather syrup rather with capillary capillary syrup ters, preferred itit sweetened sweetened with and preferred ters, and given tb new to the the new was given than name bavaroise bavaroise was Thence the the name than sugar. sugar. Tbence by replacing replacing it, simply simply by beverage. to serve serve it, caf6s began began to Other cafés beverage. Other the cooked toto the the clarified sugar sugar cooked with clarified the capillary capillary syrup syrup with milk. consistency adding milk. and adding consistency of of aa syrup, syrup, and very pint, scant cup) very scantcup) Bavaroise dl.(t(+ pint, Bavaroise 1I -- Mix Mix together together 22 dl. syrup sugar syrup strong fine sugar, sugar, 1I tablespoon tablespoon sugar strong tea, tea, 1I tablespoon tablespoon fine mixture yolk. Whisk the mixture until the (104"C., 220°F.) Whisk until (l04°C., 220'F.) and and an an egg egg yolk. teaspoons milk and and55 teaspoons becomes boiled Ïnilk little boiled Add aa little becomes frothY. frothy. Add kirsch. kirsch. liqueur. otherliqueur. orany anyother Flavourings maraschino, or Flavourings can can be be rum, rum, maraschino, (4oz., cup) yolks with oz.,t with 125 125g.g.(4 i cup) Bavaroise II -- Whisk Whisk 44 egg egg yolks Bavaroise II scant**cup) fine dl. (3(3tablespoons, tablespoons,scant Add itdl. fine sugar sugar until until thick. thick. Add "rrp) generous cup) pint,generous cup) (scant1I pint, syrup 220°F.), 2i dl. (104'C.,220F.),2| dl. (scant syrup (104°C., freshly milk. boiling milk. amount boiling and the the same same amount freshly made made hot hot tea, tea, and dl. (.6(6 Add 1I dl. Whisk frothy. Add very frothy. mixture isis very Whisk until until the the mixture tablespoons, Calvados. rum, kirsch kirsch or orCalvados. cup) rum, scant1+cup) tablespoons, seant lemon The on with orange, flavoured with orange,lem also be befiavoured can also The bavaroise bavaroisecan or milk. boiling milk. infused ininboiling first be beinfused should first vanilla, which whichshould orvanilla,

BA VAROISE AUX expression French slang slang expression CHOUX -- French ALIX CHOUX BAVAROISE describing andorgeat. orgeat. absinth and mixture of ofabsinth describing aamixture BAY. inareaatraditional leavesare traditional inBayleaves rnunrER-sAUcE - - Bay BAY. LAURIER-SAUCE gredient (q.v.).The bay Theberries berriesof ofthe thebay gredient of bouquet-garni(q.v.). ofthe the bouquet~garni tree called herbscalled aromatic herbs of aromatic distillation of tree are are used usedinin aa distillation Fioravanti. Fioravanti. BA YONNE - - Town wherethe theegg egg Basses-Pyr6n6eswhere Town ininthe theBasses-Pyrénées BAYONNE and inbeeninhave been saidtotohave mayonnaise isissaid calledmayonnaise and oil sauce called oil sauce vented. are,inin whichare, hamswhich forBayonne Bayonne hams known for alsoknown vented. ItIt isisalso fact, Orthez. town,Orthez. neighbouring town, fact, made madeininaaneighbouring The improve alsoused usedtotoimprove raw.ItItisisalso usually eaten eatenraw. The ham ham isisusually the garnish cookedasasaagamish andcooked andsauces, sauces,and ragoittsand flavourof ofragoûts theflavour for ways. prepared ininvarious various ways. foreggs eggsprepared Bayonne produceexcellent region produce excellent neighbouring region andthe theneighbouring Bayonne and local (q.v.)(a(amixture cabbage, garbures(q.v.) mixture ofofcabbage, aregarbures Thereare localdishes. dishes.There bacon, Pyr6n6es thePyrénées popularininthe goosefat ryebread, bread,popular fatand andrye bacon,goose 919l

BEAN BEAN district), preserved preserved goose, goose, preserved preserved pork, pork, locally locally caJIed called district), methode. Ail All the the charcuterie charcaterieof of the theBayonne Bayonne region regionis good, methode. is good, especially the (blood) puddings. the black black (blood) puddings. especially Among the the sweets, pAtd de sweets, pâté decédrat cidrat (a(a citron preserve), isis citron preserve), Among delicious, and and Bayonne Bayonne chocolate chocolate isis noted. noted. delicious,

BROAD BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S.Shell plant Shellbeans). beans). FÈVES rivrs -- Anoual Annual plant BROAD of the the Leguminosae Leguminosae family, family,cultivated cultivated for for its itsseeds, seeds,which which of as food serveas food for for man man and and for for animais. animals. The The broad broad bean, bean, of of serve which the Windsor isis best the Windsor best known, known, isis the the common common bean bean of which of Europe. Other Other well-known well-known broad broad beans beans are are the the lima lima bean, bean, Europe. species originating originating inin South South America America and andcultivated cultivated exaa species extensively in in California; California; the the soya soya bean of China, China, Japan bean of tensively Japan and and India, now now very very widely widely cultivated. cultivated.Sorne Some beans, beans, such such as as the the India, horse bean beanof Scotland and and the pea ofsouthern thecow cow pea of southern U.S.A. U.S.A. are are horse ofScotland chiefly used used for for forage. forage. chiefly The fresh fresh broad broad beans beans that that are are commonly commonly used used in in Europe The Europe do not not have have aa very very high high food food value. value. Dried Drid beans, beans, on on the the other other do hand, are are rich rich in in amino amino acids acids and potassium salts; and potassium salts; they they also also hand, contain large quantities of large quantities of nitrogenous nitrogenous substances substances and and contain Vitamins Band B and E. Their nutritive E. Their nutritive value greater value isis therefore therefore greater Vitamins than fresh fresh beans. beans. However, However, eaten eaten in in excess excess they they can can cause cause than (favism). serious blood blood disorders disorders (favism). serious (4 oz.) g. (4 100 g. oz.) unpodded yield approximately unpodded beans beans yield approximately 50 g. 50 g. 100 (2 oz.) oz.) comestible comestible beans. beans. (2 To cook cook fresh broad beans. beans. SheU Shell the the beans. beans. Remove Remove the the To fresh broad tough outer outer skin skin and and cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water water with with aa tough bunch of of savory. savory. Drain, Drain, and proceed according and proceed according to bunch to the the selected recipe. recipe. selected Fresh broad broad beans beam àI l'anglaise. l'anglaise. FÈvES rAvns FRAÎCHES rneicrrs ÀA L'ANGLAISE r'ANcLArsE Fresh Cook the the beans beans as as indicated indicated above, above, but leave leave in in their -- Cook their skins. skins. Drain, and and serve serve with with fresh fresh butter. butter. Drain, Fresh broad broad beans beans in in bUtter. birtter. FÈvES rtvrs FRAîcHES rnalcrrts AU Fresh AU BEURRE BEURRE as for for Peas Peas in (see PEAS), and in butter (see and add add chopped Proceed as chopped savory. savory. proceed as in cream. cream. FÈvES rtvns À A LA cRÈME Broad beans in cniun -- Proceed as for (see PEAS). Moisten with thick fresh Peas in in butter (see Peas fresh cream, and simmer for for aa minute minute or two. and Broad beans beam à la la croque-au-sel. FÈvES rirvx ÀA LA r.l CROQUE-AUBroad cnoeus-luFresh broad spr - Fresh beans served raw as served raw as an an hors-d'œuvre. SEL broad beans hors-d'euvre. guests shell The guests shell the the beans themselves, seasoning The beans themselves, seasoning them with coarse salt. salt. This This hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre is is popular all all over over the with coarse of France. south of Fresh beans à la la française. frangaise. FÈVES rilvss FRAÎCHES rndcrns A Fresh broad beaos À LA r,c, FRAN9ATSE - Shell and skin the beans, and cook as for peas FRANÇAISE Peas àd lafrangaise (see of savory. lafrançaise (see PEAS), together with a bunch of savory. Pur6e Purée of fresh broad beam beans for garnishing. runfo puRÉE ne DE FtvBs FÈVES rn llcffis - Proceed (see FRAÎCHES Proceed as as for for Purie Purée of of fresh fresh garden peas peas (see PEAS). Puree Purée of bean soq soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Fresh broad bearn beans with ssvory. savory. riivrs FÈvES rn.licrcs FRAÎCHES A À LA senSARRrErfi RIETTE - Shell Shell and skin the beans, beans, and cook in boiling salted salted water water with with a bunch bunch of of savory. Drain, Drain, return return them them to the the pan, pan, and and shake shake over over heat heat for for a few few seconds to get rid of of any any moismoisture ture left. left. Add Add fresh butter butter cut into small pieces. pieces. Mix carecarefully fully so as not to damage damage the the beans. beans.

BEAN. HARICOT HARrcor --A pulse ofwhich of which there there are are many many varieties, varieties, BEAN. A pulse some edible, edible, others others ornamental. ornamental. Among Among edible edible varieties virieties are are sorne beans, which which grow grow to glimbing beans, to aa height height of (6 to of 22 to to 33 m. m. (6 to 10 l0 c1imbing feet), and and are are trained trained on poles. The on bean bean poles. The dwarf dwarf varieties varieties feet), need no no support. support. In In most most varieties varieties the pod isis tender the pod tender and and need edible when young. when young. edible Edible bean pods falI bean pods fall under under the general heading the general heading of green of green Edible beans. In In sorne some varieties varieties the pod remains the pod remains tender tender and anO good go6a to to beans. eat even even when when fully fully grown, grown, but but in in the the case case of parchmentof parchmenteat skinned beans, beans, itit becomes becomes tough tough and and leathery. leathery. skinned

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FIELD Buropean broad FIELD BEANS. BEANS. r'Evrnorss FÉVEROLES --European broad bean, bean, smaller smaller than th an the the ordinary ordinary kind, kind, cooked cooked in in the the same same way. way. These These beans beans usually usually remain remain white. white. Field Field bean bean flour flour is is sometimes sometimes added added to to wheaten wheaten flour flour for for the the manufacture manufacture of of bread. bread.

FLAGEOLET FLAGEOLET BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS - Used Used mainly mainly as as aa garnish garnish (whether (whether fresh fresh or or dried) dried) for for meat meat dishes. dishes. They They are are excellent excellent with with cuts cuts of of mutton mutton or or lamb. lamb, and and make make delicately delicately flavoured flavoured pur6es. purées. They They are are not not common common in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Fresh Fresh flageolets. flageolets. HARJcors HARICOTS FLAGEoLETs FLAGEOLETS FRArs FRAIS -- Small Smal1 beans beans of of aa greenish greenish colour. colour ..They They are are cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as Fresh Fresh white white haricot'beans haricotbeans (see (see below). below). All Ali recipes recipes for for haricot haricot beans beans are are suitable suitable for for flageolets. flageolets.

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FRENCH FRENCH BEANS BEANS (U.S. (U.S. String String beans). beans). HARrcors HARICOTS vsRrs VERTS -- A A delicately should be be freshly freshly delicately flavoured flavoured vegetable, vegetable, which which should picked, when they they only only need need to to be be topped topped and and tailed..With tailed .. With picked, when older olderbeans, beans, ititisisnecessary necessary to to cut cut away away the the stringy stringy edges. edges.

Varieties Varietiesofbeans of beans

92 92

BEANS. BEANS, RED RED Brown Brown 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., bZ., 11 cup) chopped chopped onions on ions in in butter butter and and add add the the beans. beans. Saut6 Sauté all ail together; together; the beans beans should be be very very slightly browned. browned. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley parsley and and add add aa little little vinegar. vinegar. peNlcnfs - Boil Mixed Mixed beans. beans. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS PANACHÉS Boil separately, separately, in in salted salted water, equal quantities quantities of of French beans beans and small fresh fresh kidney kidney beans beans (flageolets). (flageolets). Drain Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Blend Blend the the two two in in butter or cream. cream. French beare beans à la la normande. normande. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A À m LA NonNORMANDE MANDE - Proceed Proceed as as for for French French beans in in crearn. cream. After After the beans beans are are cooked, blend in yolks yolks ofeggs. of eggs. Just Just before before serving serving add butter.

Wash Wash the the beans beans in in cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and put put them them in in aa large saucepan full full of of boiling boiling salted salted water water (l| (lt teaspoons teaspoons large saucepan salt per per litre, litre, scant scant quart, quart, generous generous quart quart water). water). Leave Leave the the salt

saucepan uncovered uncovered and and cook cook over over aa high high flame. frame. The beans beans saucepan are are ready ready when when they they are are tender tender but but still firm firm in in texture. texture. Do Do not overcook. overcook. Drain Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. not Ifthe If the beans beans are are to to be be kept kept for for later later use, use, or or are are to to be be dressed with oil oil and and vinegar vinegar as as a salad, salad, they they should should be be put put in in aa colancolanwith der der under under running running water. water. If If they they are to to be be served at once in in butter, cream crearn or some sorne other other way, they they should not be be cooled butter, after being being boiled, but but should be be well weil drained. drained. after French bearc beans A à I'anglaise. l'anglaise. HARIcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS A À t'lNcrllss L'ANGLAISE French Boil the the beans beans in salted water, drain, and dry in a cloth. c1oth. -- Boil butter. Serve with fresh butter. beans ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. HARIcors HARICOTS vrnrs VERTS A À rl LA French beans BONNE FEMME FEMME - Boil the beans in salted salted water until they are BoNNE three-parts cooked. Drain, Drain, and dry in a cloth. cloth. three-parts Blanch about about 200 g. (6 oz.) lean bacon, and cut into small Blanch butter. Add 500 g. (l (1 lb.) of the nearly cooked dice. Fry in butter. beans, moisten with thickened brown veal stock, cover coyer the beans, completely pan, pan, and and simmer simmer slowly slowly until until the the beans beans are are completely cooked. httle butter and sprinkle sprinkle with When ready to serve, add a little chopped parsley. HARIcors vERTs VERTS AU BEURRE beans in brown brown butter. HARICOTS French beare NOISETTE - Boil the beans in salted water as indicated above. NoIsETTE (l oz., clotho Brown 25 g. (1 2 tablespoons) oz.,2tablespoons) Drain, and dry in a cloth. well season, and toss them weil butter in aa pan, add the beans, season, untiJ they have absorbed the butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped until serving. parsley before serving. HARtcors vERTs d'h6tel. HARICOTS VERTS French beans in butter à i la maître maitre d'hôtel. AU À rl LA MAÎTRE ' HÔTEL -- Boil AU BEURRE BEURRE i, Boil the as indirulirnr Do'H6rsr the beans as pan over cated above, and and drain drain thoroughly thoroughly. . Toss them in aa pan all moisture left in heat for for aa few few moments to to ensure that that ail them has evaporated. pieces -- 90 90 to Season, and small pieces and add add butter cut into very small per butter 100 g. bu Uer to 500 g. p bu tter per cup g. beans (3 to 4 oz., scan scantt I cu butter all y are ail they I1 lb. lb. beans). Mix the so that the the butter so the beans in the evenly coated coated.. Sprinkle with parsley before serving. French A LA m CRÈME nlruco'rs VERTS vERTs À cntlr,c -French beans beans in in cream cream I. I. HARlCOTS Boil are three-parts until they water until Boil the the beans beans in in salted they are salted water cooked. Drain, and dry in aa clotho and coyer cover cloth. Toss Toss in melted butter, and with has been with fresh fresh thick thick cream. cream. Simmer Simmer untiJ until the the sauce sauce has reduced reduced to Season. its original volume. volume. Season. to half its French vERTs À A LA u CRÈME Frenci beans II. HARICOTS rHmcom VERTS cntuE -beam in in cream cream n. Follow preceding recipe, in aa recipe, but the beans beans in Follow the the preceding but simmer simmer the (see SAUCE) rather sauce (see instead of of cream. cream. rather thin thin Béchamel Bichamel sauce SAUCE) instead Add butter just before serving. serving. French prepared in in this way and and sprinkled with French beans beans prepared this way sprinkled with chopped verts àd la la tourangelle. tourangelle. called haricots haricots verts chopped parsley are are called Dried for aa HARIcoN VERTS vERTs SECS sEcs -- Soak Soak for Dried French French beans. beans. HARICOTS long French beans. beans. fresh French like fresh and cook cook like long time time in in cold cold water water and French FRANQAISE vERTs À A LA LA FRANÇAISE French beans ài la la française. frangaise. HARICOTS n^lRlcors VERTS (l inch) -- Slice Proceed pieces about inch) long. long. Proceed about 33 cm cm.. (1 Slice the the beans beans in in pieces as for Peas française (see (see PEAS) PEAS).. asfor Peas àd la lafrangaise French vERTs AU AU GRATIN GRATIN -gratin. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans au au gratin. French beans Proceed in an an beans in Put the the beans ueatn. Put as for beans in in cream. Proceed as for French French beans ovenware grated cheese. melted butter butter over over cheese. Pour Pour melted dish with with grated ovenware dish them grated cheese. cheese. Brown Brown slowly slowly more grated and sprinkle with more them and sprinkle with in in the the oyen. oven. French vERTs AU AU JUS rus -- Boil Boil the the gravy. HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS beans in French beans in gravy. beans cooked. are three-parts three-parts cooked. until they in salted water until they are beans in salted water Drain, Moisten with with in butter. butter. Moisten slowly in Drain, and and stew them slowly stew them thickened thickened brown brown stock. stock. French rl vsnrs ÀA LA HARIcors VERTS lyonnaise. HARICOTS la lyonnaise. beans ài la French beans LYONNAlSE (l lb.) French water. g. (lIb.) beans in in salted salted water. French beans Boil 500 500 g. LyoNNArsE -- Boil Drain drv in in aa clotho cloth. and dry Drain and

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i

French bean saI salad French ad

DE HARICOTS HARrcors VERTS vERTs -- Boil Boil the the French bean salad. SALADE DE French bean saI ad. SALADE with Drain and and dry in in aa cloth. cloth. Serve Serve with in salted salted water. Drain beans in aa French dressing. while the beans are are still the beans still hot, The salad can be seasoned while salad can The be seasoned with thinly chopped mixed mixed herbs herbs or or with flavoured with with finely finely chopped flavoured sliced onion onion rings. sliced HARIcors VERTS vERTs SAUTÉS saurfs AU eu in butter. butter. HARICOTS Fr.ench beans sautéed saut6ed in Ft;ench and dry dry in in aa in salted BEURRE -- Boil the the beans beans in salted water. Drain and BEURRE browning in aa heavy iron pan in in butter, butter, slightly slightly browning cloth. Sauté Saut6 in cloth. parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped the beans. beans. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the provengale. HARICOTS ru'nrcors VERTS vERTs beqns sautéed saut6ed à la la provençale. French beans French pnovENgALE - Proceed beans as for for French French beans Proceed as slurft ÀA LA L,c, PROVENÇALE SAUTÉS butter. Just Just before before for the sautied in oil for the butter. in butter, butter, substituting substituting oil sautéed parsley. grated garlicand garlic and chopped chopped parsley. little grated add aa little serving, add serving, PRESERVATION OF OF See PRESERVATION bears - See French beans Preserved French Preserved FOODS. FOODS. punfo DE Boil DE HARICOTS HARIcors VERTS vERTs - Boil French beans. beans. puRÉE Puree of of French Purée for in aa clotho cloth. Stew Drain and and dry dry in Stew for in salted water. Drain beans in salted water. the beans the fine sieve. rub them sieve. in butter, and rub them through through aa fine butter, and few minutes minutes in aa few potato, and and puree half mashed potato, half its its volume volume of of mashed Add to to this this purée Add just before before serving. mixture. Add Add butter butter just serving. heat up up the the mixture. heat HARIeors VERTS vERTs ÀA LA LA TOMATE ToMATE beare in in tomato tomato sauce. sluce. HARICOTS French beans French are three-parts three-parts in salted water until until they they are Boil the beans in salted water the beans - Boil for aa few few minutes minutes in aa clotho cloth. Stew Stew for Drain, and and dry dry in cooked.. Drain, cooked (see sauce (see Tomato sauce tablespoons Tomato in butter, butter, and add several several tablespoons and add in parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Simmer. Simmer. Sprinkle Sprinkle with SAUCE).

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sometimes Lima beans, beans, sometimes DE LIMA LIMA -- Lima LIMA BEANS. BEANS. HARICOTS HARIcors DE LIMA green,like They are are green, peas,are popular in America. They in America. called Cape Cape peas, called are popular like beans. ofbroad flageolets, and about the the size size of and about flageolets, broad beans. (see below) below) are are beans (see All recipes white haricot haricot beans recipes for for Fresh Fresh white Ali for lima lima beans. beans. suitable for suitable

RED BEANS. BEANS. HARICOTS RoucEs n c.Rrcors ROUGESRED (U.S. Iddney RoucES HAnrcors ROUGES beans). HARICOTS kidney beans). Fresh red red beans beans (U.S. Fresh beans white haricot haricot beans way as as Fresh Fresh white FRAIs -- Cook the same same way FRAIS Cook inin the for red red (see below). aresuitable for white white beans beans are suitable for recipes for below). Ali All recipes (see beans. beans. the Cook inin the RoucEs SECS sEcs -- Cook HARIcors ROUGES Dried red red beans. beare. HARICOTS Dried (see below). recipes All recipes beans (see below). All haricot beans way as as Dried Driedwhite same white haricot same way red beans. beans. dried red are suitable for dried suitable for for dried dried white white beans beans are for 93 93

BEANS, BEANS, TONKA TONKA

i

Red beam beans in in red red wine wine à la la bouguignonne. bourguignonne. HARIcors HARICOTS Red VIN Roucn ROUGE A À r,.c, LA nounc[IIGNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE - Cook Cook the ROUGES AU AU vrN RoucEs red wine, with herbs and beans in equal parts of water and red a piece of blanched lean bacon, or lean smoked bacon. are soft, drain and and fry When the the beans beans are soft, drain fry them, them, together When with some sorne coarsely chopped bacon, in in butter. butter. Serve with with creamed creamed butter. bu tter.

flame for a Drain, and put in a saucepan. Toss them over a ftame in75 o2.,66 tablespoons) tablespoons) few seconds to dry them. Blend in 75 g. (3 oz.,

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quart, generous generous quart) cooked butter to every litre (scant quart, to every beans. FRAIS EN Fresh white beam beans en cassoulet. HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS FRAIS cAssouLET -- The cassoulet of Languedoc is made from dried CASSOULET also be from fresh white haricot beans, white beans, but but it it may may also be made made from beans. (See CASSOULET.) A LA r.c, BLANcs FRAIS nRxs À cream. HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS Fresh white beans beans in cream. cniirvrs -- Cook the beans as indicated in Fresh white haricot CRÈME Return to fresh cream. cream. Retum beans. Drain, Drain. and and coyer cover with thick fresh beans. reduced to cream has has been to half the cream the the pan, pan, simmer until the been reduced and add fresh fresh cream. cream. Mix Mix.well. volume, and its volume, weil. EsrouFFAT DE fresh white beam I'occitane. ESTOUFFAT Estorffat of fresh Estouffat beans àI l'occitane. (+ lb.) g. (-t L'occIrANE -- Brown 250 g. BLANcs FRAIS rnHs A HARIcors HARICOTS BLANCS À L'OCCITANE diced and and blanched, in butter or belly belly of pork, or salt pork, diced peeled, chopped goose fat. Add 1 chopped tomatoes, chopped onion, onion,22 peeled, I chopped goose garlic. Cook for l+ l0 minutes. Add Add li little crushed crushed garlic. for 10 and aa little and (2f pints, pints, 3t pints) white white haricot beans beans which which have litres 3f pints) litres (2àparts cooked, cooked, and and then drained. Coyer, Cover, and then drained. been three three parts been finish cooking. finish HARIcors BLANCS FRAIS beans ài la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. HARICOTS Fresh white beaœ and drain the beans. To To each litre A m LYONNAISE rvoNNAIsE -- Cook and À LA (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) beans add 22 onions onions thinly beans add (scant few in butter until until tender. Simmer for for aa few and cooked in tender. Simmer sliced sliced and (3 with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 minutes in in aa casserole. casserole. Sprinkle Sprinkle with minutes tablespoons) chopped chopped parsley. tablespoons) parsley. HARICOTS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIs tnRlcors BLANCS beam witb with parsley. Fresh Fresh white white beans asfor Aux FINES FINEs HERBES ITERBEs-- Proceed as AUX for Fresh white beans in butter, with chopped parsley added. with puRfn DE DE HARICOTS HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS besns. puRÉE fresh white white beans. Purée Puree of of fresb fine sieve. sieve. FRAIS FRAIs -- Cook the beans, drain, and rub through aa fine pur6e, stirring with until itit is with aa wooden spoon spoon until Warm this Wann this purée, in the add fresh fresh butter in the proportion smooth. Before serving, serving, add

TONKA coumarin, a TONKA BEANS -- The seed of a pulse rich in coumarin, volatile oils and fragrant crystalline substance, fragrant crystalline substance, analogous to volatile manufacture ofsome of some liqueurs. camphor, used in the manufacture camphor,

WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS. BEANS. HARrcors FRESH WHITE HARICOTS FRESH

BLANcS BLANCS

Cook in boiling salted water to which has been been added - Cook

FRAIS FRAIS -

They can also aromatic aromatic vegetables and bouquet garni (q.v.). They and a r bouquet be cooked cooked as follows: Cut a carrot and an onion into quarters and brown them and 300 g. lightly in butter. Add the beans, aa bouquet garni and lightly (5| pints, (ll oz.) blanched lean bacon. Coyer with 33litres (11 litres (5t Cover with 6-t 6] pints) water, seasoned with salt. after 25 add the to the the boil, boil, and the beans. Bring to and after 25 minutes minutes add greatly improves This method Simmer slowly. method of cooking greatly slowly. This the ftavour flavour of the beans, which can be dressed in aa number of different ways. must be in cold cold water (Dry white haricot beans must be soaked soaked in for a time before cooking.) cooking.) HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS FRAIS Fresb white beans beans ài la bretonne. HARICOTS Fresh la bretonne. A À LA Le BRETONNE nr.sroNr{E -- Cook the beans as indicated in the previous put them recipe. them in pan. Blend Bretonne Drain, and and put in aa pan. Blend in in Bretonne recipe. Drain, (scant I pint, pint, dl. (scant} sauce (see SAUCE) in the proportion of 2-t 2| dl. quart, generous quart) generous cup) sauce to to 1I litre (scant quart, cooked beans. Simmer for a few minutes, and and sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. FRAIs AU HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS FRAIS Fresh beans in butter. HARICOTS Fresh white white beans in botter. previous recipes. BEURRE - Cook the beans beans as indicated in the previous BEURRE-

rg

( N ico las\ Haricot beaos beans (Nicolas)

94

BEARN, BÉARN, PAYS PA YS BASQUE, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGORRE of 100 100 g. (4 (4 oz, oz., *t cup) cup) butter butter to to 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous 11lb., lb., 22 cups) cups) of

Dried white white beam beans in in tomato tomato sauce. sauce. HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS sEcs SECS eIl Dried AU Cook and and drain drain the the beans. beans. To To each each litre litre (scant (seant AU ToMATEs TOMATES - Cook

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pur6e. purée.

quart, quart, generous quart) quart) beans beans add add 3 3 dl. dl. (] (t pint, pint, l| li cups) cups) Tomato fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) flavoured flavoured with with a a little little garlic garlic and a a tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Simmer Simmer all aIl together in a pan pan for for a few minutes, minutes, and and serve. serve. together

If the bean bean pur6e is is to be be served as as aa vegetable vegetable or or aa garnish Ifthe should be be fairly thick. tbick. itit should Fresh white bean bean salad. salado Fresh

SALADE SALADE DE DE HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS Cook and drain the the beans. Put Put them them in a salad bowl bowl Cook and dress dress with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, season with with salt, salt, pepper and (parsley, chervil chervil and chives). Mix and chopped mixed herbs (parsley, weil. well. seasoning. Onion This This salad salad needs needs a lot lot of of seasoning. Onion rings rings or or chopped onion may be added to it.

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FRAIS FRArs

BEAR. BEAR. ouRs OURS - Bear Bear meat meat can only only be be used used after after itit has has been been marinated marinated for a long long time. time. It is is not not particularly tasty ta st y and and isis often tough. tough. Prepare Prepare in in any way way suitable for for wild wild boar boar or or venison. venison. Some Sorne gastronomes consider consider bear's bear's paws paws to to be be aa great delicacy. delicacy. Bear Bear ham. JAMBoN JAMBON D'ouRsD'OURS - This This ham, ham, common common in in Russia Russia and some sorne European countries, countries, is cured in in the same way way as as pork pork ham. ham. It It is eaten eaten cooked or or raw. raw. All AlI recipes recipes for for pork pork ham ham are suitable for bear bear ham. ham. Bear's prw. IATTE PATTE DE DE L'ouRs L'OURS -- The The earliest earliest delicacy delicacy known known to the Chinese. Mencius, Mencius, who lived about about aa hundred hundred years years like, so after after Confucius, Confucius, said: 'Fish 'Fish is what what Illike, so are are bear's bear's paws; but if if I1 cannot cannot have both, I1 will will forego the fish fish and and choose the bear's bear's paw.' paw.' The supply of this tbis delicacy is now very limited, limited, and and is is to to be had, if if at at all, aU, in north China. China. Its l ts taste isis unique. unique. Mr. Mr. Cheng, Cheng, to the Court-of St. James', one-time ambassador ambassadorto James', said: 'The 'The nearest nearest comparison is that it it is like the fat fat part of of the best best ham, or rather much better, for it it has not not the greasiness greasiness of of the latter. It is so smooth and delicious de\icious that it it simply simply melts in the mouth.' mou th. ' To cook. Wrap the paw paw in clean c1ean mud and bake bake in in the oven. oven. When the mud becomes firm finn like clay, take the paw out of of the oven, leave to cool, and peel peel off off the mud -- this will will autoautoSimmer in water, offthe matically matically tear off the hairy hairy skin of of the paw. Simmer frequently to get changing the water frequently get rid rid of of its its gamey gamey smell smell and taste. When the paw has become become very soft and 'tasteless', 'tasteless', cook over low heat with shredded chicken meat, lean Jean ham, harn, sherry enable the ingredients and just enough water water to to enable ingredients to to yield'a yielda slices, like thick gravy. Cut in in sUces, like ham.

DRIED WHITE HARICOT HARICOT BEANS (U.S. (U.S. Horticultural Horticultural beans). HARIcors HARICOTS BLANcs BLANCS sBcsSECS - Dried Dried white white haricot haricot beans beans are

usually soaked for a long time in water, but this traditional traditional practice practice is a bad one. If If dried beans beans or or other other dried vegetables vegetables have have to be soaked they tbey should be left for a short short time time only. only. Some recipes recommend 12 12 or even even 24 hours of soaking, Sorne wheqeas for a a few few hours, hours, may may cause cause slight sligbt whereas soaking, even even for fermentation which noticeably fermentation noticeably spoils spoils the the flavour flavour of of the the beans and can and can also make them thern slightly poisonous. To To swell the lltoto 2 hours beans, 1 soaking is sufficient. bours soaking sufficient. good quality If the beans beans are are of of good quality and have have been been dried within If theycan be cooked without soaking. soaking. can be the year, they Pick through the the beans and and wash wash them. them. Put Put them them in in a Pick cold water, and bring slowly deep saucepan with plenty of cold Season. Flavour with aromatic to the boil. Skim. Season. aromatic vegetables V"j~'-laLJl'-" (onions cloves, quartered (on ions stuck with c1oves, quartered carrots, a bouquet stuck with garlic). Cover the pan and garni (q.v.) clove of garlic). (q.v.) and aa small c10ve simmer very very slowly. some cases, especially especially for cassoulet (q.v.) and estoufat In sorne estouffat (q.v.) it is advisable to cook the dried beans with fat. This is done by adding to the stock salted bacon, chine of salt pork and fresh fresh pork skin. skin. This adds or knuckle of pork, and adds flavour to to the beans. can be used in the sarne same Once cooked, dried white beans can la bretonne, bretonne, en ways as as fresh fresh white white beans: ways beans: in in butter, butter, àd la estouffat, àd la lyonnaise, in cream, with herbs, cassoulet, en estouffat, berbs, as pur6e, in salad, etc. a purée, BLANcS SECS sEcs I'am6ricaine. HARIcors beans ài l'américaine. HARICOTS BLANCS Dried Ihied white beans way, adding usual way, in the usual Cook the beans in À A L'AMÉRICAINE r'eufnrclrxr -- Cook (lIt pints, generous litre (1 bacon to a litre opr,prt"\llC 1 I lb.) lean bacon 500 g. (generous bacon. quart) dried haricot beans. beans. Drain, trim and dice the bacon. add the the bacon sauce, add tomato sauce, Mix bacon and Mix the beans with with tomato the beans is well cooked. until the the bacon is simmer until HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS SECS sEcs À A Dried white white beans beam ài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. HARICOTS Dried with seasoning I'ANGLAIsE -- Boil Boil the beans in in water water with seasoning and the beans L'ANGLAISE and drain. fresh butter. drain. Serve Serve with fresh herbs, and HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS Dried white white beans bears ài la la berrichonne. berrichonne. HARICOTS Dried BERRIcHoNwS -- Proceed as for Dried white beans au A LA LA BERRICHONNE sscs À SECS gratin (see below). Alternate thick mutton Alternate layers of beans and thick pour hash in in an an ovenware dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour ovenware dish. and brown in the oven. melted butter over, over, and rnelted HARIcors BLANCS beans àI la la charcutière. charcutilre. HARICOTS white beans Dried white Dried piece of beans with with aa piece of A LA LA CHAhCUTlÈRE cHARcur$ns - Cook Cook the the beans secs À SECS is cooked, and herbs. herbs. When the ham is desalted lean lean raw raw ham, ham, and desalted coarse dice. Drain tbe the beans thoroughly. drain it and and eut cut into coarse drain (5 oz., in butter. Add 150 g. (5 cups) chopped on onion Brown 150 oz.,lf, Brown li cups) ion in diced ham. ham. the diced the beans beans and simmer, simmer, presently adding the the Cook 66 small small pork Transfer to ovenware dish. Cook to aa buttered ovenware Transfer (cripinettes) in press them them down down on on in butter, butter, and and press sausages (crépinettes) sausages add the the butter butter and add the beans. with breadcrurnbs, breadcrumbs, and beans. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the Brown slowly. slowly. were cooked. cooked. Brown in which which the the sausages sausages were in gratin. HARICOTS AU HARIcors BLANCS BLANcS SECS sncs AU beans au au gratin. Dried white white beans Dried concenand add add sorne some concenand drain drain the the beans, beans, and cRATIN -- Cook Cook and GRATIN into aa buttered ovenware dish, buttered ovenware veal stock. Pour into trated veal stock. Pour trated and add add melted melted butter. with toasted breadcrumbs, and sprinkle with toasted breadcrumbs, Brown slowly slowlv in in the the oven. oven.

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See ARBUTUS. BEARBERRY. RAlSIN nnrsm D'ouRs BEARBERRY. D'OURS - See ARBUTUS.

The art cookery BTGoRRE-- The of cookery BASQUE, Bf,ARN PAYS Ufi.CO ....".JJr... BIGORRE art of of is highly esteemed in these three three picturesque picturesque provinces provinces of

the Pyrenees. the many specialities - Among the Culinary specialities many notable notable dishes dishes preserved goose goose garbure, aa substantial soup; lou lou trebuc, trebuc, preserved are garbure, are B6arn, onion soup to pork; toulia and ou/iat ouliat in Béarn, to Bigorre and toulian or pork; in Bigorre added, and which is is is sometimes sometimes added, dash of vinegar is which aa dash which garlic, when leeks and and garlic, also made cheese, tomatoes, leeks made of of cheese, when it it also &t berger. name of soupe soupe du the name takes the takes lamb is is dish; tender lamb IV is is aa historie historic dish; Poule au pot d'Henri IV in mutton cutlets in in Béarn, B6arn, rnutton be had had in the the Ossau Ossau valley in to be to estouffat; or estouffat; also daube àd la la béarnaise, biarnaise, or are also Barbges; there there are Barèges; pork, turkey and goose, and duck. preserved go preserved ose, pork, produces excellent local wines. wines. The excellent local Wines - Béarn B6arn produces Wines produces Basses-Pyr6n6es prod dCpartemenl of of the the Basses-Pyrénées département uces several wines d'origiru appellations d'origine the appellations categories of the come under the the categories that come and V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. and appelations d'origine The Jurançon Jurangon is the best known of of the appelations The King of the King of Navarre wine that wines. It It was was with with this this wine that the wines. IV. It It isis Henry IV. lips of his nephew, the the future future Henry of his moistened the the Iips moistened with an unusual, mellow bouquet, rosy-tinged wine with aa robust, rosy-tinged 'Manseng' vine. vine. This vine, This vine, and cornes comes frorn from the the so-called so-called 'Manseng' and gives the and Sauvignon, also gives the with the Sauvignon, also together with the Sémillon S6millon and produced in Pacherenc de in the nortb north of of Vicbilh, aa white white wine produced de Vicbilh, Pa<;hererlC province. the province. the perfect accomaccomvery strong wine, the the perfect strong wine, The Madiran isis aa very The V.D.Q.S. Among the the V.D.Q.S. region. Among anisine of of the the region. the cuisine to the paniment to

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95 95

BEARN, PAYS BASQUE, BÉARN, BASQUE, BIGORRE BIGoRRE

(French Governmenl Sauveterre de B6arn, Ofice) B6arn (French Tourist Office) Sauveterre Béarn, Béarn Government Tourisi

and soft, or dry, depending on of November. It is is sweet and on the year. feature of of the Jurançon sweetness, 'The characteristic characteristic feature Jurangon is its sweetness, which does not destroy its bouquet or turn it into aa syrup. years are are mostly irregular; often often the vintage years The mostly irregular; the good The vintage are swamped swamped in qualities of Jurançon Jurangon are qualities in the the excess of sugar. 1886, and 1916 produced splendid results.' 1905 and 1886, 1905 B6arn and and is A is· also made in in Béarn A red red Jurançon Jurangon (Bouchy) is'also greatly esteemed as aa table cannot compare wine, but but it greatly table wine, it cannot esteemed as Jurangon. with white Jurançon.

lrouldguy, the red wine of the Basque country, country, there is the Irouléguy, red wine thete B6arn, the and red the white wines of Béarn, the Rousselet, the white and red wines Rousselet, and and the B6arn which are are beginning seriously to very dry ros6s rosés of Béarn - which rival Provence. rival those those of Provence. great gourmet, who studied Paul PauJ de Cassagnac, aa great studied the wines Adour basin, quotes among the remarkable vintages of the Adour vintages 1870, 1886, 1886, 1898, 1898, 1904 1904 and of 1870, and 1916. of the the Madiran those those of He had also occasion occasion to drink aa Madiran of 1848 which was still 'at the height of its form'. still gathered late, towards the end 'The Portet is a white wine, gathered

Lamprey, Shad, Sahed leg of

cEAN:H.J

ffi*i{*'''

:?^%ru^zi,A

PoiEi,-a duck preserves (confits) Ham

ftt r.

omelette,

Lonquinguesrrtp!t{

ry:"H:f:Sffi lmffi;*xl#@ffif':iffiW ci.r6prr, sguids,

Sea-perch, Grey

i[;l;i["'"7

mullet, "''"="

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speclolitier

o;aaornl

i",:,f:.:.:^1^n*-*'+-ttr:*'^(t**

b€ornois, breadlbread), '' iiipiinut, Aticutt,'

Merveilles, Crespets.

Postis

Map of of B6arn Map Béarn

96

pot

ffiffi#ff,

_\\ lzird (chafrois) stew tf .l-_ preserve (confi) t---rr \\\ \ \\ li -'.-fu'-*r4'r'r'r-r

e,t*yo,t. fl.:i{i'ffli:jfiii::ifl, ,.,,r"r salmi,

Hochto, Soutd chicken, Pigeon

ou

Macaroons. Bas.que flan

Elzekoria (pumpkin soup). Purce.de ciboure, Piperoile, Songuetc,-Broye, Cro.gucts Aliches noifes (black bread), Salurgue, /vlicnes noires (Dlack Cretons. Solursue. Creions, Lretons,5olurgue,

Duck s'fiver,

Poule

--\\ \\

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BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS BEARNAISE BÉARNAISE SAUCE -- This famous sauce is said to have have origina ted in in B6arn, Béarn, though some sorne culinary writers assert originated

BEAUGENCY BEAUGENCY -- Small Small town town in in Loiret, Loiret, producing wine wine which resembles Burgundy) resembles the the Basse-Bourgogne (Lower (Lower Burgundy)

that it originated originated at Saint-Germain-en-Laye Saint-Gennain-en-Laye and and was named named that in honour honour of Henry IV, the Great Biarnal's. Béarnais. But in fact the Henry IV pavilion pavilion dates as a restaurant restaurant from the year year 1836 1836

wines. wines.

BEAUHARNAIS BEAUHARNAIS (A (A LA) LA) -- Method of of preparing preparing small cuts cuts .t ourne do s. of meat, mainly ofmeat, mainlytournedos. Garnish Garnish with small artichoke artichoke hearts and Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), vtith with a a pur6e purée of tarragon added to it; it; and little potato potato balls.

and the recipe for Bdarnaise Béarnaise sauce first appeared in 1818 in la Cuisiniire Cuisinière des villes vil/es et des campagnes. Ia - Animals Animais intended intended for for slaughter, slaughter, which which come under the the general general term tenn of livestock, livestock, are enumerated under that that heading. heading. In addition, some sorne beasts beasts of of burden, burden, such under as horse, mule, donkey and camel, cameJ, are edible. as animais, i.e. ground game, game, ail which Among the wild animals, all of which are are edible, edible, are deer, chamois, fallow-deer, fallow-deer, red red deer, deer, wild are deer, boar.

BEAST. BEA ST. stTE B~TE

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BEAUJOLAIS -- Ancient French region that has given its

name to a 'gulping'wine 'gulping' wine with a very strong strong bouquet bouguet which which must must be be drunk drunk when when it it is is young young and and fresh. fresh. L6on Léon Daudet Daudet said that Lyon was watered by three rivers: the Rh6ne, Rhône, the Sa6ne and Saône and the the Beaujolais. The appellation'Beatjolais' appellation 'Beaujolais' is linked Iinked with the viticultural viticultural region of of Burgundy Burgundy (q.v.). (g.v.).

BEATILLES BÉATILLES (Iitbits) (Titbits) -- Cocks' combs and kidneys, lambs'

BEAUMONT -- Savov Savoy cheese cheese in season from from October October to

sweetbreads, mushrooms, used as a garnish for vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, sweetbreads, and tourtes (q.v.), bouchdes (g.v.), bound bound with aa Velouti Velouté souce sauce or bouchées and Supr~me sauce (see SAUCE). Suprtme Ragoût of of Hatilles béatilles (titbits) -- Here is an old recipe: Ragoftt g. Q 'Gently cook in butter 250 g. (9 oz.) lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads

June.

BEAUNE -- Sub-prefecture Sub-prefecture of of the the Cdte-d'Or. Côte-d'Or. Famous since the Middle Ages for the excellence of of its wines. It has given appellation conirôlée. contr1lie. given its name to an appellation of the southern part of the COteThe white and red wines of Côte'Cdte de Beaune'. They d'Or are classed under the name of 'Côte

(which (which have have previously previously been been soaked soaked in in co Id water cold water and

blanched). Skin and soak in cold water water 125 g. (4 oz.) cocks' blanched). (q.v.). Add 25 g. (1 court-bouillon (g.v.). (1 oz.) combs, and cook in a court-bouillon cocks' kidneys, cooked in in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1cup) } cup) Madeira and and aa tablespoon butter. butter. Sauté briskly in in butter Saut6 briskly 250 g. (9 oz.) sliced and seasoned Cook 250 g. seasoned chicken livers. Cook (9 (9 oz.) trimmed and washed mushrooms in butter. Put the sweetbreads, chicken chicken livers, Iivers, cocks' combs and kidneys lambs' sweetbreads, cocks'combs g. (4 oz.) sliced and the mushrooms in aa saucepan Add 125 g. saucepan.. Add (f pint,3 truffies and and lf li dl. (t pint, cup) Madeira. Madeira. Simmer with a lid on on,. (q.v.) using concentrated chicken stock. stock. 'Make aa Velouté Veloutd (g.v.) Add to it half its volume of fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil down by half. Lace with aa little Madeira. add add sorne Lace with little Madeira, butter, strain, strain. and some butter. pour over ragottt.' the ragoût.' over the

are among are among the the finest finest of of the the Burgundy wines wines (see (see BURGUNDY). The annual annual wine auction of The wine auction of the the Hospices Hospices de de Beaune attracts buyers from all over the world. attracts from ail great cuisinier. He was aa great Beauvilliers was BEAWILLIERS BEAUVILLIERS -- Beauvilliers

served as Steward of the Household served Steward of Household to the Count Count ofProvence of Provence and Attach6 Attaché Extraordinary of of the Royal Household. Household . (n 1782, according to The restaurant which which he he founded (in The was situated 1786 according to Brillat-Savarin, in to others) was in 1786 rne de de Richelieu and was called la Grande Grande Taverne de at 26 26 rue Londres. It can be considered considered the first real to be real restaurant to etc. were in Paris. Rivarol, Pelletier, Champcenetz, etc. opened in

t

(French Governmenl A Beaujolais wine-cellar wine-cellar (French Government Tourisl Tourist Office) Ofice) A

97

BEAUVILLIERS BEA UVILLIERS habituis and and more more th issue of than one issue of the the Journal Journal des des Apôtres Ap\tres habitués an one was composed composed after good dinner after aa good dinner in in another another restaurant restaurant was that Beauvilliers Beauvilliers owned owned in in rue rue de de Valois. Valois. He He bought bought three three that arcades of of the the Palais-Royal Palais-Royal in in 1790 1790 for for 157,000 157,000 francs. francs. arcades During the the turmoil turmoil of of the the Revolution Revolution la Grande Taverne Taverne la Grande During de Londres Londres had had to close its to close its doors. doors. Towards Towards the the end end of of the the de Directoire, Beauvilliers Beauvilliers reopened reopened it. it. In In 1824 1824 he he wrote wrote his his Directoire, book l'Art l'Art du dt cUisinier, cuisinier, which which for for aa long long time remained an an time remained book authoritative standard standard work. work. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin wrote: wrote: authoritative 'Beauvilliers had prodigious memory. had aa prodigious memory. He He recognised recognised 'Beauvilliers people whom and welcomed welcomed people whom he he had had not not seen seen for for twenty twenty and years, people people who who may may only only have have eaten eaten at at his his restaurant restaurant years, once or or twice. twice. once 'He would advise would ad which dish dish not not to to take, take, which which to to snap snap 'He vise which up, and and would would then then order order aa third third one which no one which no one one else else up, would have have thought thought of; of; he he wou would have wine wine brought brought up up Id have would from the vaults, to the vaults, which only to which only he he had had the . . . But the key key ... But this this rôle r6le from of aa host host lasted lasted but but aa moment moment and and having having accomplished accomplished itit of he would would vanish. vanish. And And aa little little while while later later the the amount amount of the of the he dinner bill bill and and the paying itit showed the bitterness bitterness of of paying showed clearly clearly dinner that one one had had dined great restaurateur. dined with with aa great restaurateur. Beauvilliers Beauvilliers that made his his fortune, fortune, lost lost itit and and made made it it again again several several times.' made BEAUVILLIERS -- Garnish Garnish for for braised braised meat meat consisting consisting of of BEAUVILLIERS spinach kromeskies, kromeskies, toma tomatoes puree of stuffed with with aa purée of brains, brains, spinach toes stuffed and salsify salsify sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. and BEALIILLIERS AND BONVALET These two two cakes, cakes, the the BEAUVILLIERS AND BONV ALET -- These recipes for for which which are are almost almost identical, identical, were were created created towards towards recipes the middle middle of the nineteenth nineteenth century. of the century. the of Beauvilliers' Beauvilliers' old One of pupils. Monnier, old pupils. Monnier, set set up up aa One cake shop in rue rue Monsieur-le-Prince Monsieur-le-Prince and, shop in and, as as homage homage to his to his cake teacher, named named his his creation creation after after him. him. This This was was the first the first teacher, cake intended intended for for travel, travel, wrapped wrapped in in tin tinfoil. cake foi 1. The Bonvalet Bonvalet cake cake was was created created by Jules Leroy, Leroy, head head The by Jules pastry-cook at at Machin's, Machin's, 99 de Turenne, Turenne, and pastry-cook 99 rue rue de and he he dedidedicated it it to Monsieur Bonvalet Bonvalet in is the cated to aa Monsieur in 1869. 1869. Here Here is the recipe recipe for these cakes, as given by as given for these cakes, by Phil6as Philéas Gilbert: Gilbert: 'Pound 200 g. (7 200 g. oz., scant scant lf almonds with an equal Q oz., 'Pound 11 cups) cups) almonds with an equal amount of sugar, add amount of sugar, add 55 egg egg whites whites little !ittle by by little. little. Rub Rub this mixture sieve. mixture through through a a sieve. 'Blend (18 oz., 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2{ 2i cups) cups) sugar sugar with with 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., oz., 'Blend 500 l]11 cups) butter and and 4 4 whole whole eggs eggs in in a a bowl. bowl. When When quite quite cups) butter smooth, add smooth, add the the almond almond mixture, mixture, 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., oz., lf li cups) cups) fine fine cake cake flour, flour, the the same same amount amount of of rice rice flour flour and and potato potato flour. flour. Add Add 7 7 egg egg whites whites whisked whisked to to a a stiff stiff froth. froth. Cook Cook in in a a moderate moderate oven oven (160'C., (1 60°C., 325oF., 325°F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 3) 3) in in a a special special cake-baking trois à trois cake-baking tin tin (with (with. a a hole hole in in the the middle) middle) called called d frCres, frères, sprinkled sprinkled with with potato potato flour. flour. 'When 'When the the cake cake is is cold, cold, ice ice itit with with kirsch kirsch icing icing and and fill fill the the centre CREAMS) or Chantilly ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) or Plombiire Plombière ice ice centre with with Chantilly ueanf(see cream' (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). BEAVER. CASTOR -- A A mammal mammal rare rare in in Europe Europe but but common cornmon BEA VER. cAsroR in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Its Its meat meat is is sometimes sometimes eaten, eaten, but but has has a a rather rather disagreeable disagreeable musky musky flavour. flavour. BEC BEC (Berk) (Beak) -- Word Word often often used used in in French French colloquial colloquial exexpressions, pressions, such such as as rincer rincer le le bec bec (to (to wet wet one's one's whistle), whistle), which which means drink; tortiller tortiller &t du bec bec (to (to wolf wolf down, down, to to make make means to to drink; short food), which bec, which short work work of offood), which means means to to eat;fin eat;finbec, which means means aa gourmet. gourmet. BEC-PLAT BEC-PLAT ('Flat-beak', ('Flat-beak', i.e. i.e. Shoveller) ShoveUer) -- Common Common French French name name for for spoon-bill spoon-bill duck, duck, called called so so because because of of its its flat flat beak. beak. ItIt can can be be prepared prepared in in all ail the the ways ways suitable sui table for for Wild Wild duck duck (see DUCK). (see DUCK). BEC-POINTU BEC-POINTU -- French French name name for for white white skate. skate. They They call call itit 'sharp 'sharp beak' beak' because because its its head head is is elongated elongated and and the the body body oval. oval. ItIt can can be be prepared prepared as as ordinary ordinary skate skate (q.v.). (q.v.).

(Hooked DOse) BECARD (Hooked nose) -- French French term term for for old old male male salmon. BÉCARD salmon. Its snout snout begins begins to protrude like to protrude like aa hooked hooked beak, beak, hence Its hence the the (See SALMON.) name. (See SALMON.) name.

BECASSEAU -- French French name name for young woodcock, for the the young BÉCASSEAU woodcock, until its its seventh seventh month. month. until All the the methods methods of preparation given of preparation given for for woodcock Ali woodcock are are applicable, but btil becasseau becassean are are mostly mostly cooked cooked on applicable, on aa spit. spit.

Woodcock Woodcock

(Louis de) -- Marquis de BECHAMEIL (Louis de Nointel, aa financier BÉCHAMEIL who made made his fortune during the the Fronde Fronde (the rising of the the who aristocracy and and the the ParIiament Parliament against against Mazarin in in 1648aristocracy got himself 53) and and got himself the the post of Lord Lord Steward Steward of the Royal Royal 53) Household to to Louis XIV. XIV. The invention of béchamel bichamel sauce is attributed to him but is more more likely to have been been the invention of of aa court court chef chef who who dedicated it B6chameil as as a it to to Béchameil tion compliment. compliment. The old old Duc d'Escars said: said: 'That fellow Béchameil B6chameil has The all serving breast ln crème crime twenty al! the luck. 1I was serving breast of of chicken dà la years before he he was born, chance bom, but 1I have never had the chance years of giving sauces!' giving my name to the most insignificant of sauces!'

BECHAMEL SAUCE SAUCE - Was bdchamel BÉCHAMEL béchamel sauce sauce really invented by Marquis Louis de de B6chameil? Béchameil? Was this financier financier a gasgourmet, and was he in any way competent tronome and a gourmet, competent in in the culinary culinary art? We do not know, but everything everything seems to indicate indicate that, in fact, bichamel béchamel sauce, sauce, being being a major sauce, sauce, must must have been been perfected perfected by one of the queux queux de semestre cooks in in the service service of of the royal royal kitchen. kitchen. -- cooks Originally, béchamelwas made made by by adding adding aa liberal Iiberal amount amount Original!y, bichamelwas of of fresh fresh cream to a thick thick veloutd velouté sauce. sauce. Nowadays N owadays bdchamel béchamel is is made made by by pouring pouring boiling boiling milk milk on white roux (blend of butter butter and and flour). flour). When a a meat meat bichamel béchamel is wanted, wanted, lean lean veal, veal, diced and simmered in in butter butter with with a minced minced onion. onion, is is added. added. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) B6chamel Béchamel sauce (Car0me's (Carême's recipe) recipe) - 'When the velouti velouté isis thick, thick, bind bind it it with with egg yolks yolks and and thick thick cream. cream. Stir with with aa wooden wooden spoon to to make make sure sure the the sauce sauce does does not not stick stick to to the the pan. of butter butter the the size size pan. Remove Remove itit from from the the heat, heat, add add aa piece piece of of of aa walnut walnut and and a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of thick thick double double cream. cream. Add of grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, sieve sieve through through aa white white cloth cloth Add aa pinch pinch of and and keep keep hot hot in in aa bain-marie.' bain-marie.'

.

BECQUETER BECQUETER - French French slang slang word word which which means'to means 'to peck peck at at food'. food'.

BEDSTRAW. BEDSTRA W. clu,rE-r GAILLET -- Plant Plant of of the the Rubiaceae Rubiaceae familv. family. The The flowering flowering tops tops of of the the yellow yellow bedstraw bedstraw or or cheese-rennlt cheese-rennet contain contain aa substance substance which which isis used used in in the the curdling curdling of of milk. milk. ItIt isis used used in in the the preparation preparation of of Cheshire Cheshire cheese. cheese. BEECH. BEECH. t$rnr IffiTRE - Handsome Handsome tree tree found found in in upland upland groves. groves. Beech nut is is good good to to eat. eat. Beech Beech oil oil isis extracted extracted from from these these Beech nut nuts, and isis second second only only to to olive olive oil oil in in quality. quality. nuts, and

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98 98

BEEF BEEF fat. fat. Blotting Blotting paper paper applied applied to to the the surface surface should should never never be be

Beech Beech nut. nut. rllNs FAINE - (See (See above.) above.) Its Its flavour flavour is is midway midway between between that that of ofthe the hazelnut hazelnut and and the the chestnut, chestnut, with with aa sligbtly slightly

-

with greasy covered coveredwith greasy spots, spots, as as in in the the case case of ofhorse horsemeat. mea t. In In France France beefis beef is classified classified in in three three categories categories according according to to fine-grained firm and its itsmarket marketvalue, value, which which depends depends on on how how firrn and fine-grained sinews and the the texture texture is, is, as as well weil as as on on the the proportion proportion of ofsinews and fat: fat:

astringent astringent taste taste which which disappears disappears when when roasted, roasted, as as in in the the case case of of chestnuts. chestnuts.

First First category. category. Fillet, Fillet, porterhouse porterhouse steak, steak, rump, rump, rump rump steak, steak, silverside silverside and and inner inner parts parts

sirloin, sirloin, top top of of the the flank flank

and and round. round. Second Second category. category. Top Top of of sirloin, sirloin, plate, plate, top top ribs, ribs, fore-rib fore-rib and and three-rib, three-rib, shoulder shoulder ofbeef, of beef, chuck chuck end end ofclod, of clod, and and clod. clodo Third Third category. category. Flank, Flank, brisket, brisket, leg leg of of beef, beef, neck, neck, oxoxcheek, of beef, beef, knuckle. knuckle. cheek, shin, shin, ox-knees, ox-knees, shin shin of generally Cows' Cows' meat meat is is inferior inferior to to that that of of bullocks, bullocks, generally cows speaking, speaking, although although the the flesh fiesh of of young young heifers heifers and and sterile sterilecows can can often often be be extremely extremely good. good. Bull's Bull's meat meat is is tough; tough; it it swells swells aa great great deal deal in in cooking, cooking, but but is is not not suitable suitable for for anything anytrung exc€pt except the the stockpot. stockpot. The The meat meat of of aa young young bullock bullock is is usually usually the the b9s1. best. pet cent Good Good quality quality beef beef is is 97 97 per cent assimilable assimilable (provided (provided it it is is residue, is not not eatenlo eaten to excess) excess) and, and, since since itit leaves 1eaves little littleresidue, is easily easily larger in say, is to that digested. Eating beef beef to to excess, excess, that is to say, in larger digested. Eating quantities quantities than than the the digestive digestive juices juices can can cope cope with with (saturation (saturation leads individual) to point individual varies from point varies from individual to individual) leads to to intestinal intestinal it calories it disorders. disorders. The The fattier fattier the the piece piece of of beef, beef, the the more more calories fat isis meat of amount excessive amount of meat fat provides. an excessive However, an provides. However, eat the the so many explains why difficult to digest, which difficult to digest, which explains why so man y people people eat fat. the meat and leave meat and leave the fat. part which is which is for the the part French terrn term for .le boeuf boed - French Aiguillette de Aiguillette the is the This is boa{. This de boeuf and pidce anlotte and de culotte ialled pointe also called also pointe de pièce de poachedor poached. braised or is usually and is part rump and of the the rump top top part of usually braised -niron in England England served Joint DE BoETJF BARoN beef. of Baron of beef. BARON DE BOEUF - Joint served in part and aa part sirloins and the two two sirloins It comprises comprises the time. It at Christmas Christmas time. at ribs. the ribs. of the of joint isis trea I'anglaise sirloin as Roast Roast sir treated large joint This large This ted as loin àd l'anglaise (see below). below). (see defines origin, defines English origin, word, of of English This word, BIFTEcK -- This Beefsteak. BIFTECK Beefsteak. grilled. The The name name is is and grilled. fillet and from the the fillet beef taken taken from slice of of beef aa slice conteor contrefrom the the sirloin, sirloin, or taken from beef taken given to of beef also given to aa slice slice of also filet. filet. fried in in butter butter also be be fried may also grilling beefsteak, beefsteak, itit may Instead of of grilling Instead Contre' Entrecbte, Chateaubriand, Chateaubriand, Contresee Entrecôte, recipes see For recipes lard. For or lard. or cooked, isis raw or or cooked, minced beef, beef, served served raw France, minced etc.In filet, etc. filet, In France, also called called bifteck. bifteck. also Trim L'ltrdnrclrNn -- Trim BIFTEcK ÀA L'AMÉRICAINE l'am6ricaine. BIFTECK Beefsteak à l'américaine. Beefsteak finely, meat finely, the meat mince the (14 oz.) offfat, cut off fillet of of beef, beef, cut oz.) fiUet 4@ g.g. (14 400 fat, mince of in the the centre centre of nest in little nest Make aa little cakes. Make flat cakes. into flat and shape shape into and yolk of into it. it. of egg egg into raw yolk each'steak'and slip aa raw each 'steak' and slip parsley, and parsley, onion and chopped onion cakes chopped beef cakes the beef with the Serve with Serve pickled inin vinegar. vinegar. and capers capers pickled and diet. prescribed in in aa building-up building-up diet. often prescribed dish isis often This dish This Mince r'Ar'IDII-ousn -- Mince BIFTEcK ÀA L'ANDALOUSE l'andalouse. BIFTECK Beefsteak à l'andalouse. Beefsteak (2 oz., chopped oz.,loap) 50g.g. (2 g.(14 (14 oz.) add to to itit 50 400 g. beef finely, add oz.) beeffinely, 400 t cup) chopped garlic. pounded garlic. pinch of of pounded with aa pinch butter, with fried inin butter, onion lightly lightly fried onion fry inin and fry flourand with flour Dredge with flatcakes. cakes.Dredge into fiat Season and shape into and shape Season oil. oil. have been been which have half tomatoes tomatoes which on half cakeson beef cakes Arrange the the beef Arrange pilaf. with rice rice pilaf. dish with thedish of the centreof Fill the the centre oil. Fill saut6ed inin oil. sautéed juicesleft meat with with the meat frying the from frying pan juices left over overfrom Dilute the the pan Dilute add down, add boil down, cup) sherry; sherry; boil scant t* cup) dl.(6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant 1I dl. cakes. pour over beef cakes. the beef over the and pour butter and butter thesteak steak Seasonthe cnevAr, BIFTEcKÀACHEV cheval. BIFTECK Beefsteak àI cbeval. Beefsteak AL - - Season Arrange quickly ininhot hotbutter. butter'Arrange pepperand saut6 quickly andsauté andpepper withsalt saltand with and butter and Pourbutter top.Pour eggson ontop. friedeggs twofried plate with oneor ortwo withone onaaplate on beef. thebeef. overthe cookingjuices thecooking the juices over pArfCHAUD DEBOEUF BoEUF crnuo DE pie(English cookery). PÂTÉ Beefsteak pie Beefsteak @nglish cookery). into beefinto qualitylean lean beef lb.)best bestqwi.lity kg. ($ lb.) Cut littkg. l'lNcmtsn- -Cut ÀAL'ANGLAISE pepper and and withsalt, salt,pepper Seasonwith inch) thick. thick. Season cm.(-!Ginch) slices1 cm. slices and onionand chopped onion withchopped andsprinkle sprinklewith gratednutmeg, nutmeg, and grated water. piedish. Addstock stockororwater. dish.Add intoaapie parsley.Put slicesinto Putthe theslices parsley.

Tourist Ofice) Cattle Cattle market market at Bordeaux Bordeaux (French (French Govenrment Governmenl Tourisl Office)

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nourishfortifying and most nourishBEEF. BoETJFBOEUF - Beef Beef is the most fortifying BEEF. ing of of ail all red meat. graded beef, graded qualities of of beef, are three three qualities In France, there are France, there work done and sex offattening, work state offattening, accordirtg accordilg to breed, age, state includes the meat of bullocks, heifers, of of the animal (for beef includes cows and bulls). feeding and feeding in rearing and The English have long specialised in have long imported Durham Shorthorns were imported cattle for for beef. beef. County County Durham stock. of beef-producing stock. the strain strain of into improve the into France to to improve Limousin, Charolais, Limousin, crossbreeds, Charolais, The The Durham-Manceau Durham-Manceau crossbreeds, good for fatteriing. for fatteIiing. are also also good Salers are Garonne, Normandy and Salers Normandy and

ln

i

i

Charolais cattle Charolaiscattle

I

the andelastic elastictotothe firmand Prime redinincolour, colour,firm Prime beef bright red beefisisbright withthe the touch. fatintermingles intermingles with thefat freshsmell; smell; the hasaafresh touch. ItIt has grainsof of yellowish grains lean, orslightly pepperingititwith slightlyyellowish whiteor with white lean,peppering

99

(3*

BEEF

rump steak rump<;teak

entrecôte

rib

I , flank: 2. skirt l, f1ank; 2. skir!

top rump rump top

brisket

top rib

fillet

contre-filet

con tre-filet

100

\00

BEEF BEEF

Silve

rs

Topside

ide

flonk Thick flonk Thick

Rump sleok

I

LLtI

Rolled ribs

ond

slRt()lN

Shoulder

tul Best

rib

\--

n+*=S B

Neck

(huck

cuts or ofbeef English beer EnglishCULS

Birteck à cheval

Beersleak pie

101

riske t

BEEF BEEF

Sirloin sleok Round steolt

Porlerhouse sleok Rump

roosl

(lub

steok

Flonk sleok

Stonding rib roost

Short ribs Rolled rib roosl Brisket (Corned beef)

Stew meo men lt Slew

(huck pol roosl American cuts cuts of of beef beef American

Wet the the edge edge of of the the pie pie dish, dish, put put a border border of of pastry pastry around around Wet it, moisten moisten with with aa little little water water and and put put on on a lid lid of of pie pie or puff it, pastry. Seal Seal the the edges, edges, ornament ornament the the top top with pieces pieces of pastry. pastry cut cut in in fancy fancy shapes, shapes, brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg yolk, pastry and make make aa hole hole in in the the centre centre to to allow allow steam steam to to escape. escape. Bake Bake and in aa moderate modera te oven oven for for l| 1i to to 22 hours. hours. Serve Serve hot. hot. in Beefsteak ià la la russe russe Oitok). (bitok). BTFTEcK BIFTECK A À r.r LA nusse RUSSE - For each Beefsteak - For each 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean beef; beef; cut away all ail fat and serving, trim trim 125 serving, remove sinews. sinews. Mince Mince finely finely and and add add 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., 22 remove nutmeg. tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and nutmeg. table'spoons) Shape into into flat fiat cakes, cakes, dip dip in in flour flour and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Shape Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) crearn cream (sour (sour cream, crea m, for Add and I1 tablespoon tablespoon demi-glace demi-glace (q.v.) (g.v.) to to the the butter butter preference) and preference) left in in the the pan. pan. Put Put I1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion, onion, lightly lightly fried left in butter, butter, on on each each meat meat cake, cake, and and garnish garnish with with saut6ed sautéed in potatoes. potatoes. Beefsteak tartare. tartare. BIFTEcK BIFTECK A À r.l LA r.cnrARE TART ARE - Proceed as Beefsteak - Proceed as in the the recipe recipe for for Beefsteak Beefsteak dà I'amiricaine l'américaine but but omit omit described in described theraweggyolk. Serve Tar Tartare separately (see (seeSAUCE). the raw egg yolk. Serve t ar e ssauce auce separately SAUCE).

Bifteck ià la la tartarc tartare (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Bifteck

102 t02

BEEF BEEF ((rosse ro sse

Gite de derriirc derrière Tcnde Tende de de tronche tronche Gile Gite dà lo 10 noir noix { Tlonche Tranche gtotse grosse ou ou rond rond

Aiguillelte Aloyau for roosting Aloyou

(ulolte

Romsteck Romsteck

filel

tFlanchet lonchet Eovelle

Foux

filet (conlre-lilet

)

Ong

let

Hompe

(ontre-filet f or roosting

(hdteoubriond

de

tendron

Enlrec6te f

Milieu

cdtes Plat P lot de (ôtes (ouvell couvert

rom contre-filet

Milieu

Plol de c0tes

de

d6couveit

Poilr ine

poitrine

Gito de devont Poleron

Crosse (rosse

llotlsuse Jumeour Jumeaux

(ôtes couverl Cotes (ouvert

Inl

Poifrine

rec6lo

s

ofbeef French cuts cuts of French beef

soNcnotsB r-,1 HONGROISE BoUILLI ÀA LA BoEUF BOUILLI hongroise. BOEUF beef ànla la hongroise. Boiled beef Boiled butter inin oil or or butter and sauté saut6 inin oil large dice, dice, and into large beef into the beef -- Cut Cut the lightly been lightly has been (4 oz., onion has chopped onion cup) chopped oz.,l1 cup) 100g.g. (4 which 100 which (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). paprika.Add Crearn sauce AddCream with paprika. Season with fried. Season fried. sAUcE BoUILLI SAUCE BoEUFBOUILLI sauoe. BOEUF horseradish sauce. with horseradish Boiled beef beef with Boiled sauce Horseradish sauce with Horseradish thestockpot stockpot with from the Beef from RAIFoRT - - Beef RAIFORT (seeSAUCE) separatelY. servedseparately. SAUCE) served (see I'tNomNNB - BouILu ÀAL'INDIENNE BoEuF BOUILLI l'indienne. BOEUF beef àn l'indienne. Boiled beef Boiled powder curry powder substitutingcurry hongroise, substituting beef àdlalahongroise, LlkeBoiled Boiled beef Like (seeRICE). RICE). separately(see I'indienrcseparately paprika. Serve Riceàdl'indienne Serve Rice for paprika. for (old recipe). BoUILLI BoELJFBOUILLI recipe).BOEUF pauvrehomme homme (old aupauvre Boiled beef beefau Boiled pAUvREHOMME cut into intoslices, slices, beef,eut boiled beef, Left-over boiled HoMIVIE- - Left-over AUPAUVRE AU and onions pepper, chopped spring on withsalt, salt,pepper, sprinkled ions and sprinkled with stock' offthe thestockor fat skimmed off dripping or parsley.Add [ttle dripping Addàa!ittle parsley. breadandbreadwater,and glassof orwater, garlic,aaglass ofstock stockor pot,aapinch pinchof ofgarlic, pot, hot quarter ofofan houron onhot anhour forquarter simmerfor Leave tatosimmer crumbs. crumbs.Leave greattreat by treatby (Thisdish, consideredaagreat wasconsidered said,was dish,ititisissaid, ashes. ashes.(This Louis XV.) LouisXV.) BourLLI SAUCE sAUcE BoEUF BOUILLI piquante sauce. sauce.BOEUF Boiled withpiquante beefwith Boiled beef

Cold Left-over DEssERTE -- Left-over DE DESSERTE BouILLI DE soruF BOUILLI boiled beef. beef. BOEUF Cold boiled pieces various with various served with pieces of cut in in thick thick slices, slices, served beef, cut of boiled boiled beef, sauces. sauces. rn Cold rRotn Àr, LA parisienne. BOEUF BoUILLI FROID BoEUF BOUILLI la parisienne. Cold boUed boiled beef beef ài la on aa PARISIENNE Arrange on thin slices. slices. Arrange beef into thin boiled beefinto Cut the the boiled IARISIENNE -- Cut long with boiled boiled potatoes row. Garnish Garnish with long dish dish in in aa straight straight row. (peeled beans, (peeled and tomatoes, French beans, sliced tomatoes, and cut cut inin slices), slices), sliced quarters any other other quarters of watercress and and any eggs, watercress of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, vegetabJes onion with thin thin onion meat with Decorate the the meat vegetables in in season. season. Decorate rings, UCE) and (seeSA and SAUCE) sauce (see with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce rings, and and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped cold. Serve cold. parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. Serve chopped parsley, Left-over boiled beef can be various invarious be prepared in beefcan ofboiled Left-over piecesof ways, m fritot croquettes, kromeskies, en boulettes, croquettes, ways, including: boulettes, fritot (i.e. (i.e. fried enmiroton. fat), en miroton. deepfat), fried inin deep BoUed ntABrn- - Cut Cut L.q,DIABLE BotnLLIÀALA BoEUF BOUlLLI diable. BOEUF beef ài laladiable. Boiled beef boiled sprinkle mustard, sprinkle withmustard, Spread with slices. Spread beef into into thick thick slices. boiled beef with white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. with white and coat coatwith oil.and with melted melted butter butteror oroil, Grill golden. Serve with Servewith making both both sides sides golden. heat, making Grill on lowheat, onaalow Diable (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Diable sauce 103 r03

BEEF BEEF piquantesauce IIeUANTE - Beef Beef from fromthe thestock stockpot, with Piquante sauce pot, with (see SAUCE) served separately. (see SAUCE) served separately. Boiled beef pnovsxprovengale. BOEUF beefàt lala provençale. BoETJF BOUILLI BourLLr ÀALA r,.lPROVENBoiled Prepare as Boiled beef d la hongroise, 9ALE; substituting for ÇALE - Prepare as Boiled beef à la hongroise, substituting for the cream cream sauce sauce an an equal quantity of equalquantity Tomato fondue (see ofTomaLO fondue(see the FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with garlic. Sprinkle with garlic. Sprinkle with withchopped chopped FONDUE) parsley. parsley. Boiled beef beef with with root root vegetables. vegetables. BOEUF sosuFBOUILLI BourLLr AUX Arrx Boiled nlctxss- Boiled beef beef served withvarious served with various stock stockpotvegetables, RACINES- Boiled pot vegetables, as carrots, such as carrots, tumips, turnips, leeks. leeks. such gherkins, pickles, Sea salt, salt, gherkins, pickles, etc., etc., are are served served atat the thesasame me Sea time. time.

Bringtotothe theboil, boil,coyer coverwith witha alid, lid,and andcook cookininthe Bring theoyen oven 2|hours. hours. 2+ Carbonades ofofbeef beefwitb withlambic lambic(Belgian cookery). CARCarbonades cen@elgiancookery). BoNADES DE DBBOEUF BoEr.JFAU AULAMBIC LAMBTc- -Cut Cutthe thebeef beefinto intoslices BONADES slicesand and fryasasdescribed describedabove aboveininthe therecipe recipefor forCarbonades Carbonadesof fry ofbeef beef àdlalaflamande. flamande. Removefrom fromthe panand thepan andininthe thesame samefat fatfry frythe Remove theonions. onions. Brown Iightly, lightly,sprinkle good tablespoon sprinkleininaagood tablespoon ofoffiour Brown flourand and cookfor foraafew few moments. moments. cook Futthe thebeef beefslices intoaacasserole, slicesinto casserole, season, season,add addaabouquet Put bouquet -and garni (q.v.), (q.v.), moisten moistenwithlambic with lambic (strong (strong Belgian Belgianbeer),and garni beer), bring to the boil. Cover the casserole withaalid bring to the boil. Coyer the casserole with lidand andcook cookininaa hot oyen ovenfor for2~ Zlhours. hot hours.

PIQUANTE -

Boiled beefsautéed beefsauteed àila lyonnaise. BOEUF BoEuFBOUILLI Bourr,rr SAUTÉ slurf ÀALA r,,c, la lyonnaise. Boiled (generous lIb.) Cut 500 500 g.g. (generous I lb.) boiled beef into small boiled beefinto small Cut slices and and fry fry inin cooking cooking fat fat or or buttèr. butter.Add (Boz., Add225 225g.g. (8 o2.,2 slices 2 cups) chopped chopped on previously fried onions, fried inin butter. butter. Cook Cook cups) ions, previously together, season season with pepper. Sprinkle with salt salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped together, parsley and (3 tablespoons) and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, vinegar, heated heated in in parsley pan in the pan in which which the the beef was cooked. beef was cooked. the Boild beef beef sautéed sauteed Parmentier. Parmentier. BOEUF BoEuF BOUILLI BorlLLr SAUTÉ SAUT6 Boiled IARMENTTER -- Cut Cut 22 medium-sized medium-sized potatoes potatoes into into large large dice dice PARMENTIER fry in and fry in butter. butter. When When nearly nearly done, done, remove remove from pan. In from the the pan. In and the same same butter butter brown (generous lib.) g. (generous brown 500 500 g. pieces of I lb.) cut-up cut-up pieces of the boiled beef. beef. Add Add the potatoes and the potatoes and fry fry everything everything together. together. boiled Sprinkle with parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle Boiled beef beef with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. BOEUF BoEUF BOUILLI Bor.JrLLr, SAUCE sAUcE Boiled ToMATE -- Beef Beef from from the the stockpot stockpot with with Tomato Tomatosauce (see sauce (see TOMATE SAUCE) served served separately. separately. SAUCE) Beef bouillon. bouillon. BOUILLON BourLLoN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- This This stock, stock, which which Beef constitutes the the basis basis of of c1ear clear soups, soups, is is also also used used for for moistenmoistenconstitutes ing sauces. sauces. ing Beef stock stock is is obtained obtained by by cooking cooking lean lean beef with with carrots, carrots, Beef leeks, celery onions, leeks, celery and parsnips in water for and parsnips for about about 4 hours. hours. onions, When the the stock stock is is to to be be served as soup, turnips are served as are added. added. When For the the method method of of preparation stock, see see SOUP, SOUp, For preparation of beef stock, Clear soup. Clear soup. Braised beef. ESTOUFFADE rsrouFFADE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Fry Fry lightly lightly 300 g. 300 g. Braised beef. (11 oz.) oz.) lean, diced bacon bacon in in butter. Drain, and and (II lean, blanched, blanched, diced butter. Drain, in (3* lb.) fry l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) beef, beef, cut cut into into pieces, in the the same same butter butter fry each (4 oz.). g. (4 oz.). Add Add 33 medium-sized medium-sized each weighing weighing about about 100 100 g. quarters. Season onions Season with pepper, add with salt and and pepper, add onions cut cut into into quarters. pounded crushed clove of garlic. pounded thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf leaf and a crushed When sprinkle in Wh en all ail these these ingredients ingredients are well weil browned, sprinkle 2 flour. Let flour colour 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fiour. Let the the fiour slightly, (lf pints, slightly, stirring stirring all ail the time. time. Moisten Moisten with with I1 litre (li generous quart) red red wine wine and and the the same amount am ou nt of stock. generous quart) Blend add aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.'1and (q.v.) and bring to the boil. Blend well, weil, add Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and cook cook in in a slow oven oyen for 2| 2-!- to 3 hours. Drain Drain on on a a sieve sieve placed placed over a a bowl. Put the the pieces of beef beef and and bacon bacon into into aa pan, pan, add add to to them 300 300 g. (ll (II oz.) mushrooms, rooms, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Skim surplus surplus fat fat off the the sauce; sauce; boil boil it it down, down, strain, and pour pour over over the meat. meat. Simmer gently for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Sim mer gently Brisket. POITRINE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -- This This part part of of beef beef is is used used for Brisket. porrRrNE the the stockpot. stockpot. ItIt can can also also be be cooked cooked as as Forequarterflank. Forequarter flank. Carbonades Carbonades of of beef beef Ià la la flamande. flamande. c.qnsoNA,DEs CARBONADES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF pr,lrulNDE Cut 750 AÀ m LA FLAMANDE -- Cut 750 g. g. (l* (li lb.) lb.) lean lean beef beef (thick (thick skirt, or or chuck) chuck) into into thin thin slices. slices. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, brown brown quickly quickly on on both both sides sides in in sizzling sizzling fat fat (lard (lard or or clarified clarified stock stock fat). fat). Remove Remove from from the the pan pan and and in in the the same same fat fat fry fry 44 mediummediumsized sized chopped chopped onions on ions until until golden. golden. Put Put the the beefand beef and onions onions into into aa casserole casserole in in alternate alternate layers layers and and add add aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Dilute (1 pint,2| pint, 2-!- cups) cups) beer beer and and aa Dilute the the pan panjuices juices with with 66 dl. dl. (l few tablespoons stock. stock. Thicken Thicken with with 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant few tablespoons cup) Brown Brown roux roux (see (see ROUX), ROUX), add add aa tablespoon tablespoon brown brown *t cup) sugar, sugar, stir, stir, cook cook for for aa few few moments moments and and strain strain through through aa fine onto the themeat. meat. finesieve sieveonto LyoNNArsELYONNAISE -

Chateaubriand Chateaubriand

Chateaubriand -- Thick Chateaubriand ken from Thick slice slice of beef fillet fillet ta of beef taken from the the middle of of the the fillet, middle fillet, weighing weighing between between 400 (14 oz. 400 and and 800 800 g.g. (14 oz. and li lf lb.). lb.). ItIt isis usually and grilled, garnished usually grilled, garnished with with- Château Chhteau (see POTATOES) POTATOES) and potatoes (see (see and served with Colbert served with Colbert sauce sauce (see SAUCE) or or Maître Mattre d'hôtel SAUCE) (see BUTTER). d h6tel buller butter (see BUTTEP(\. ChateauChateaubriand can can either briand either be be fried, fried, or or cQoked cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for T-bone steak, fiUets fillets and T -bone steak, and rump steak. steak. Grtlled. Brush Brush the Grilled. the chateaubriand chateaubriand with with butter, butter, and and season. season. place under First place juices, then under aa hot First grill to hot grill to seal seal the the juices, lower then lower the heat heat and and continue the continue cooking, cooking, keeping keeping itit aa little little underunderdone. Fried. Season Fried. Season the the chateaubriand, chateaubriand, and and sauté saut6 in in hot hot butter. butter. Fry briskly briskly but Fry but on on aa medium medium Bame, flame, to to avoid avoid the meat the meat becoming dry. dry. Keep Keep underdone. Garnish Garnish and and serve serve with with aa sauce sauce made from from the diluted diluted pan juices. garnishes recommended The garnishes The recommended for for T-bone, T-bone, rump rump steaks, steaks, tournedos and and small fil1et fillet steaks are are applicable to to chateauchateaubriands. briands. Contre-filetContre-fiIet- Cut ofmeat of meat located located above the loins and and chine of the animal, c1assed classed in the first category of beef. beef. It It can can be be grilled grilled or, after being boned, trimmed trimmed and and dressed, it it can can be be roasted roasted or braised. braised. Grilled. Cut into thick slices Gritted. slices and grill as T-bone or or rump steaks. steaks. Roast. See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking Roast. See cooking timesfor times for roasts. Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Braised. Proceed Braised. for Braised beef Sened Served as aa remove, remove, the contre-flet,braisd contre-filet, braised or or roasted, roasted, beef. is accompanied accompanied by by vegetables. vegetables. It is very good good served served cold. cold. is l'ancienne. coNTRE-Frrsr CONTRE-FILET snetsf BRAISÉ A À Contre-filet braised ià l,ancienne. L'ANClENNE -- Proceed Proceed as described in in the the recipe recipe for Top L'ANcIENNE for Top below). rump braised braised dà I'ancienne l'ancienne (see below). rump Contre-filet braised braised A à la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. coNrns-FTLET CONTRE-FILET snarsf BRAISÉ Contrefilet À r,c, LA nouncEorsE BOURGEOISE - Proceed as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for A - Proceed as Top of of rump rump dà la la bourgeorse bourgeoise (see (see below). below). Top CONTRE-FILET FRorD FROID Contre-filet cold, cold, with with various various salads. salads. coNTRE-FTLET Contre-filet GARNI -- Arrange Arrange as as described, described for for Contre-filet Contre-filet jellied jellied (see (see cARNI

1+

104 t04

BEEF (Cr6ole cookery). BOEUF Ln CRÉOLE la Créole BoEtIF A cnfore -i la Cr6ole (Créole Beef à À LA olive oil into aa casserole, Put some fat and aa tablespoon of olive for as for and add 2 sliced onions. Cut the beef in large pieces as Beef ragottts (see below), and put them on this bed of of onions. Bee! ragoûts garlic, aa sprig Add aa tablespoon tomato sauce, sauce, aa clove of garlic, Add few pinches of saffron. and aa few saffron. Cook and parsley and of thyme thyme and for 3 hours with the lid on. The beef and the onions gently for juice, but if if at the end of cooking cooking the juice give out juice, juice becomes Ifthere ofwater water or stock. If there too concentrated, add a few drops of is too much it down. mu ch sauce, boil boil it BoEUF -- This old dish is is prepared Daube of beef. DAUBE DE BOEUF in different ways in different regions. in different in different regions. Basically, it consists (q.v.) in braising daubiire (q. of aa piece piece of beef, beef, cooked in in aa daubière v.) in wine added to it. In some provinces liquor, with white or red wine whole, is cooked who le, in the meat (usually taken from the rump) is escalopes. others it is cut into square pieces or thick escalopes. others Prepared in this way, the daubes are very similar sirnilar to Braised Prepared beef. I'ancienne. DAUBE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF À A l'nNcrsNNB Daube of beef ài l'ancienne. L'ANCIENNE (strips of salt rump with with thick thick lardoons lardoons (strips -- Lard aa piece piece of rump pork) for aa few few hours in white and marinate marinate for hours in white wine wine and pork) and with sliced carrots and and onions, brandy, sliced carrots onions, parsley, brandy, together together with parsley, asfor leaf and pounded garlic. Proceed as for Top rump thyme, bay leaf (see below). la bearnaise. DE BOEUF BoEUF À A LA ra BÉARsfeni la Daube of beef à béarnaise. DAUBE DE (4+ lb.) beef, taken from rump or shoulder NAIsE -- Cut 2 kg. (4} NAISE each of these of beef, into 5-cm. (2-inch) square pieces. Lard each (strip of salt pieces with aa thick thick lardoon (strip salt pork), which has pork), which garlic, seasoned and garlic, been rolled rolled in in chopped parsley and seasoned with been powdered thyme with brandy. leaf, and and bay leaf, and sprinkled sprinkled with thyme and Leave to to marinate for 22 hours hours in in red red wine wine and and brandy, Leave marinate for and onions, aa sprig of parsley with sliced carrots and parsley and thyme, daubiire (q.v.) with slices and aa bay leaf. Line aa daubière and slices of Bayonne and sliced ham, alternating with with layers layers of of carrots carrots and ha m, alternating ions sliced on onions which have lightly fried fried in lard or goose fat. fat. Dry the have been lightly in lard which pieces of beef, dredge with flour, flour, and and put them in in layers layers in dredge with garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Bring the stock daubidre. Add aa bouquet garni the the daubière. stoek in which the was marinated marinated to add 22 cru the meat was to the the boil. crushed which boil, add shed and simmer for 25 minutes. Strain and pour cloves of garlic, and meat. There should enough liquor liquor to cover the over the meat. should be enough meat completely; completely; if not, not, add add aa few few tablespoons meat meat stock. meat stock. daubiire with with aa lid, lid, sealing it with with a strip Cover Cover the the daubière sealing it strip of flour-and-water paste. Bring to the flour-and-water the boil on top of the the stove, maintaining an even heat, for for44 hours. then cook in the oven, maintaining in the having first flrst removed removed the daubiire, having Serve Serve in the daubière, the bouquet garni and and skimmed off surplus fat. garni B6arn, this daube is served with broyo instead instead of bread. In Béarn,

(Iarousse) Preparation Preparation of contre-filet contre-filet (Larousse)

artichoke hearts, hardbelow). Serve with with aa salad, below). salad, stuffed artichoke boiled eggs, boiled eggs, lettuce hearts, etc. LA GELÉE cBI-Er -- Useful for À LA Contre-filet jeUied. CONTRE-FILET coNTRE-FILET A Contre-filet jellied. serving left-over pieces of roast contre-filet. Trim the piece, coat with with slightly coloured jelly, garnish with coloured strong strong aspic jelly, cro0tons round and put jelly chopped jelly jelly and watercress, and jelly croûtons and watercress, the border of of the serving servine dish.

Contre-filet Contre-filet

garnishes. CONTRE-FILET Contre-filet cARNI -- The coNtne-FILET GARNI Contre-filet with with garnishes. method of for this meat. For For their their method following following are are suitable this meat. suitable for (Those followed preparation followed by preparation see by the GARNISHES. (Those see GARNISHES. (b) are letter letter (b) are suitable for Braised contre-filet. suitable for B i atr ix, bouquetière, Algérienne, b ou que t ii r e, ienne, alsacienne als ac ienne (b), anversoise, anv e r s o is e, Béatrix, Algir (b), Br bourguignonne Brillat-Savarin, chdt elaine, illat - Savar in, bruxelloise, brux e lloise, châtelaine, bour guignonne (b), du che s s e, fav or it e, chipolata chipolata sausages (b), Clamart, C lamar t, dauphine, duchesseJavorite, (b), fr ang ai s e, hongroise,jardinière, I angu e do c i e nn e, amande '(b),jrançaise, h o ng r o i s e, j ar d inii r e, languedocienne, flflamande (b), macédoine, (b), lyonnaise lorraine marqichire, mentonlorraine (b), lyonnaise (b), macidoine, maraÎchère, naise, piémontaise, nivernaise, orientale, piimontaise, naise, moderne, moderne, niçoise, nigoise, nivernaise, por r omaine, sarde. portugaise, pritanière, provençale, ov engale, Richelieu, Riche lieu, romaine, tugaise, pr itanii r e, pr The contre-filet can can also be served with buttered or braised pasta green vegetables, potatoes, macaroni ta green macaroni and and other other pas vegetables, potatoes, pur6e of dried products, rich pilaf, risotto, and dried vegetables. rich pilaf, and purée gratin. COQUILLES DE BOEUF BoEUF Coquilles (scallop sheUs) coeuILLES DE shells) au au gratin. AU with half-slices of of boiled AU GRATIN cRATIN -- Line Line scallop scallop shells shells with (see potatoes sauce (see ltalian sauce potatoes which been coated with [tahan have been coated with which have SAUCE). boiled beef cut up and fil! fill with thin slices slices of cold boiled SAUCE), and and small. with cheese cheese and small. Cover Cover with with more more sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with breadcrumbs and brown in the oven. preparing hot and A number of recipes for and cold cold coquilles for preparing will be found found under HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells. under HORS-D'ŒUVRE,

provengale Daube Daube Jd la la provençale

105 105

BEEF BEEF Daube of of beef beeflii lala provençale. provengale. DAUBE o.lunr DE on BOEUF sosur ÀA LA re Daube Cut the pieces, lard the beef beef into into pieœs, lard them them and and PROVENÇALE - - Cut marinate for for 22 hours hours as asdescribed described above, above, but but using using white white wine wine marinate instead of red and of red and adding adding 33tablespoons (scant f,cup) tablespoons (scant;\cup) oil oil to it. to il. instead pieces of beef and put them into a daubiire which Drain tbe the pieces Drain of beef and put them into a daubière which should be be large large enough enough to to take take al] all the the ingredients, ingredients. Spread Spread in in should layers, alternating alternating with with frcsh fresh bacon bacon rinds rinds eut cut into into small small dice, dice, layers, blanched, diccd diced bacon, bacon, sliced sliced carrots, carrots, chopped chopped onions, onions, raw raw blanched, chopped mushrooms, mushrooms, peeled peeled and and chopped chopped tomatoes, pountomatoes, pounchopped garlic and ded c10ves cloves of of garlic and stoned black olives. olives. Put Put aa bouquel stoned black bouquet ded (q.v.) in garni (q.v.) in the the middle middle of of ail all these these ingredients ingredients and, and, besides besides garni the usual usual aromatic aromatic herbs, herbs, add add aa small piece of small piece of bitter bitter orange orange the peel. peel. Pour the the marinating marinating Iiquor liquor over over the the whole, whole, add add some some Pour veal stock, stock, and and coyer, cover, sealing lid with sealing the the lid with aa strip flourstrip of of flourveal paste. Cook and-water paste, Cook in in aa moderate moderate oyen for 55 or oven for or 66 hours. hours. and-water Serve in in the the daubière, daubiire, having having !irst first removed removed the the bvuquel bouquet Serve garni and and skimmed skimmed off offsurplus fat. garni surplus fat. Entrec0te or or Steak Steak -- Entrecôte Entrecbte isis the part of the part of the the meat meat Entrecôte between the the bones bones of ribs of of the the ribs of beef. beef. A A slice slice ta from taken between ken from the con/refile! contre-filet or from the or from the rUll]p rump isis often often served served under under this this the name. name. The real real entrecôte entrecite is grilled; aa slice is usually usually grilled; slice of of contrefile/, contre-filet, The often called called rump rump steak steak in in France, France, is is sometimes sometimes fried fried in in often butter. butter. These steaks generally boned steaks are are generally boned before grilled. before being being grilled, These pieces are When the the pieces are thick, thick, however, however, rib rib bones bones are are left left on. on. When Grilled. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the the steak, steak, brush with butter butter or or Grilled. brush with oil, season season and and cook cook under grill, tirst under aa grill, first on on aa brisk brisk and and then then on on oil, lowered hea!. heat. Arrange Arrange and and serve serve as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. aa lowered Sautded. Trim Trim and and flatten flatten the the steak, steak, season season il it and and sauté saut6 Sautéed. briskly in butter. Arrange and garnish as and garnish indicated in as indicated in the the briskly in butter. Arrange juices Ieft recipe. Pour Pour over over itit the the pan left over over from frying, rectpe. pan Juices from frying, having diluted them and finished as described described in having diluted them and tinished off off as in the the recipe. recipe. In steak taken confie-filet, ln France, France, a a steak taken from from ribs ribs of of beef, beef, or or con/refile/, (about I1 lb.) g. (about of 500 g. considered sufficient sufficient for of 400 400 to to 500 lb.) is is considered for four four persons. persons. Entrec0te Steak ià la Entrecôte or or Steak la b6arnaise béarnaise -- Grill Grill the the steak, steak, and and garnish (see POTATOES) and watergarnish with with Chdteau Château potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) and water(s*, cress. Serve Bdarnaise sauce SAUCE) cress, Serve Béarnaise sauce (sec SAUCE) separately. separately. EntrecOte Entrecôte or or Steak Steak Ià la la Bercy Bercy - Grill Grill the the steak steak and and cover coyer with with Bercy Bercy butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters) , .Grand-mlre'Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak ià la la bonne bolll.le femme, femme, or or 'Grand-mère' Saut€ Saute the the steak steak in in butter, butter, browning browning on on both both sides. sides. Surround Surround itit in glazed onions, in the the pan pan with with 12 12 small small glazed onions, 22 blanched blanched potatoes potatoes cut eut small, small, and and 50 50 g. g, (2 (2 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and blanched blanched salt salt pork pork or or bacon. bacon. Cook Cook all ail together. together. Arrange Arrange in in an an earthenware earthenware dish, dish, with with the the garnish garnish surrounding surrounding it. il. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan with with +±dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seanl *t cup) cup) stock stock or or water water and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish, Sprinkle Sprinkle with witb chopped chopped parsley. parsley, Entrec0te la bordelaise Entrecôte or or Steak Steak iàla bordelaise -- Grill Grill the the steak. steak. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and and place place l0 10 slices sJices of of poached poached and and drained drained bone bone marrow marrow on on top. top. Serve Serve with with Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). The The steak steak can can also also be be served served saut6ed, sautéed, with with the the pan pan juices juices added added to to the the sauce. sauce. Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak ià la la bourguignonne bourguignonne -- Sautd Sauté the the entreentrecdte in butter, butter, and and garnish garnisb dà la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (sec GARGARcôte in NISHES). NISHES), Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ]1cup) cup) red red wine, wine, add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v.), (q,v.), boil boil down, down, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the dish. dish. Entrec6te or Steak Entrecôte or Steak Dumas Dumas --- Season Season and and cook cook conte-filet contre-filet steaks steaks over over aa high high heat. hea!. Lay Lay them them on on aa heated heated meat roeat plate plate and and place place 33 slices slices of of previously previously cooked cooked beef beef marrow marrow on on each. each. . Make a sauce with the residue Make a sauce with the residue left left in in the the pan pan by by adding adding I1dl. * cup) dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) dry dry white whitewine wine and and 2table2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped cbopped shallots. shal.lots. Boil Boil down down by by

three-quarters. Pour Pour inin 1I dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant} scant * cup) cup) three-quarlers. veal stock stock and and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Boil Boil for for one one minute, minute. Add Add veal (4oz., 100g.g. (4 oz., ± cup) butter butter and and season season to to taste, taste. 100 * cup) Sprinkle Ihe the steaks pepper and steaks wilh with pepper and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Coat with with the (Recipe from the sauce sauce and and serve. serve. (Recipe from the the Restaurant Restaurant Coat Lasserre.) Lasserre,) Entrec0te or or Steak Steak à laIa fermière fermilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak àd lala Entrecôte bonne femme, replacing the garnish indicated the garnish indicated for for that recipe that recipe bonne femme, replacing by I! l{ dl. pint, dl. (!$ pin (see FONDUE). cup) Vege/able Vegetable fondue FONDUE). t, j3 cup) by fondue (see juices, diluted Pour over pan juices, over ilit the the pan diluted with with white white wine wine and and Pour thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened Entrec0te or or Steak Steak à la la forestière forestilre - Prepare Prepare Steak Steak wi/h with Entrecôte (see below), mushrooms 1I or or JJ II (see below), replacing replacing the the mushrooms mushrooms by by mushrooms garnish called the garnish called àd laforestière (see GARNISHES). la forestiCre (see GARNISHES). the Entrec6te or or Steak Steak àI la Ia hongroise hongroise -- Season Season the the steak steak with with Entrecôte paprika, and and sauté saut6 itit in in butter. butter. When When three-quarters three-quarters done, done, paprika, add aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped anion, onion, lightly fried fried in in butter butter and and add juices with with salt paprika. Dilute seasoned with salt and and paprika. Dilute the pan juices the pan with seasoned (6 tablespoons, dl. (6 tablespoons, seant (6 cup) white scant t* cup) white wine, wine, add add 1I dl. dl. (6 11 dl. tablespoons, scant (se, SAUCE). scant ± cup) thin thn Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). tablespoons, * cup) Cook for for aa few few moments and and pour pour over over the the steak. steak. Serve Serve Cook with boiled potatoes. boiled potatoes. wilh Entrecdte or or Steak Steak à la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 1I Sauti: Saut6 the the steak in steak in Entrecôte butter. When When three-quarters three-quarters done, (3 done, add add 22 Lablespoons tablespoons (3 butter. tablespoons) chopped on lightly fried onion fried in in butter. butter. Dilute tablespoons) ion lightly juices wilh pan juices the pan with 1I tablespoon tablespoon vinegar and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 the tablespoons) white white wine, (6 tablespoons, wine, add add 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant t Lablespoons) crtp\ demi-glace (q.v.); (q.v.); bail boil down, add aa tablespoon chopped cup) parsley pour over the steak. and pour parsley and Entrec0te or or Steak Steak à la la lyonnaise lyonnaise il tr - Cook Cook as as above. Entrecôte juices with vinegar Dilute tbe the pan vinegar and white wine. Add stock, Dilute pan jlliœs and (see BUTTER, the sauce sauce with wirth Kneaded buller butter (see BUTTER, and thicken thicken the Compound bUl/ers). butters). Compound Entrec0te or Steak maltre d'hOtel -- Grill Grill the steak. Serve Entrecôte or maître d'hôtel the steak. with (see BUTTER, d'hbtel buller butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Maître d'hôtel with Mattre butters\., bUl/ers) Entrec0te or Steak Steak marchand Grill the Entrecôte marchand .de .de vin vin - Grill the steak. steak, (see BUTTER, Serve Serve with with Marchandde Marchand de vinbutter vin buller (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). EntrecO& Entrecôt~ or or Steak à la la m6nag0re ménagère - Prepare as as Entrecite En/recôte d à la la bonne bonne femne. femme. Replace the garnish in in that Ihat recipe by by an equal equal quantity quantity of of small smaU glazed glazed onions, onions, mushrooms mushrooms and cooked cooked carrots. carrots, Pour Pour the the pan pan juices, juices, diluted dilllted with with white white wine wine and and thickened thickened veal veal stock, over the the dish. dish. Enhec0te Entrecôte or Steak Steak Ià la minute minute - Flatten Flatten the the steak steak to to make make itit as as thin thin as as possible. possible. Season and saut6 sauté in butter. butter. Add a few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice juice and and half half a a tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped chopped parsley parsley to to the the butter butter in in which which itit was was cooked and pour pour over the the steak. steak. Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak Mirabeau Mirabeau - Grill Grill the the steak. steak. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish, dish, decorate decorate with with anchovy anchovy fillets !illets and and tarragon tarragon leaves, leaves, garnish garnish with with stoired, stoned, blanched blanched olives olives and and serve serve with with Anchovv Anchovy butter butters) buller (see (see BUTTER. BUTTER. Co,mpound Compound butters). Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak with witil mushrooms musbrooms I. J. ENTREcOTE ENTRECÔTE AUx AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Saut6 Sauté the the steak steak in in butter. butter. When When threethreequarters quarters done, done, add add 88 mushroom mushroom caps, caps, and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Arrange Arrange the the mushrooms mllshrooms around around the the meat meal on on aa dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +! cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant +± cup) cup) demi-glace demi-glace (q.v-), (q.v.), boil boil down, down, strain, strain, add add aa teaspoon teaspoon fresh fresb butter, butter, and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Entrec6te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak with with mushrooms mushrooms II. n. eNrnrc0TE ENTRECÔTE AUx AUX cHAMIIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS - Proceed Proceed as as above. above. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add stock stock and and thicken thicken with with Kneaded Kneaded butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compound butters). bullers). Entrec0te Entrecôte or or Steak Steak ià la la nigoise niçoise -- Saut6 Sauté the the steak steak in in butter butter or or oil. oil. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish, dish, garnish garnish with with Tomato Tomalofondue fondue dà la la nigoise niçoise (see (sec TOMATO), TOMA TO), new new potatoes pOLatoes cooked cooked in in butter. butter, and and

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106 106

BEEF

BEEF

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served separately' be served should be accompanying itit should sauce accompanying sauce separately. piattin it"Ttet mignon, season' and saut6 briskly Sautied. Flatten Sautéed. thefilet mignon, season, and sauté briskly recommended sauce and the garnish a with a garnish and the sauce recommended Serve with in butter. butter. Serve in recipe. in the in the recipe. ways suitable for enin ways prepared in be prepared car. be mignon can Filet mignon Filet suitable for enescalopes of veal, for escalopes cuts, for other cuts, and other steaks and rump steaks treciltes, rump trecôtes, of veal, do s. t ourne and tournedos. noise tte sand noisettes lard and en cheweuil - Trirn, flatten slightly, mignons en Filets mignons Filets chevreuil - Trim, flatten slightly, and lard them in a rosette inserting bacon, of with strips the fillets the fillets with strips of bacon, inserting them in a rosette 24 to 28 hours in the summer' fot 24 pattern. Leave to marinate marinate for Leave to pattern'. to 28 ho urs in thesummer, (see MARINADES)' winter inthe thewin days in from 33to to44days from ter (see MARINADES). and dry them in a marinadeand the marinade of the out of fiiletsout Take the the fillets Take dry them in a in clarified butter or oil' possible quickly as as Saut6 cloth. clotho Sauté as quickly as possible in clarified butter or oil. andsauce sauce recommended in the recipe' garnishand withthè thegarnish Serve with recommended in the recipe. Serve garnishes for appropriate garnishes most appropriate arethe the most following are The following The for chestnuts, onions' They can lentils,chestnuts, celeriac, lentils, chevreuil: celeriac, filetenenchevreuil: filet onions. They can pilaf' risotto, noodles, rice dried noodles, ordried freshor with fresh also be beserved servedwith also rice pilaf, risotto, etc. etc. prepared au chausseur, d la be also can chevreuil Filetsen enchevreuil can also be prepared au Filets chausseur, à la en venison, etc' romaine, en poivrade à hongroise ,àdlalapoivrade, , dlalaromaine, hongroise, venison, etc. BoEUF - The fillet is the undercut of DEBOEUF rtt.srDE beei.FILET Filletofofbeef. Fillet - The fillet is the undercut of used for making tournedos and fillet of the end The sirloin. sirloin. Tbe end of the fillet isisused for making tournedos and the fat and sinews afterthe fillet,after of the middle The mignons. filetsmignons. The middle of the fiIlet, filets fat and sinews delicate roasts' or, cut anddelicate tenderand makestender removed, makes havebeen beenremoved, bave roasts, or, cut fillet,less delicate in thefillet, topofofthe grills.The Thetop deliciousgrills. intoslices, slices,delicious into less delicate in roasted or grilled. middle,isisroasted themiddle, thanthe moresinewy sinewythan taste,more or grilled. taste, into thick Cutinto sinews'Cut andsinews. skinand removingskin fillet,removing thefillet, Trimthe Trirn thick grilled fillet, chateaubriand, a as servedas a chateaubriand, asasgrilled slicesififititisistotobebeserved slices fillet, mignon. tournedos,ororfilet filetmignon. tournedos, and lard it with filletand thefillet trimthe whole,trirn servedwhole, IfIfititisistotobebiserved lard it with rashers and secure with withrashers bardwith bacon;ororbard stripsofofbacon; thinstrips tbin and secure with accordfry orbraiseit, a spit, on or oven theoven or on a spit, fry or braise it, accorddoast'itin string.Roastit string. in the

and juices with wine and white wine with white pan juices the pan Dilute the black olives. Dilute black olives. steak' pour over the steak. over tbe and pour veal stock, stock, and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal top steak, top Grill the the steak, la tyrolienne tyrolienre -- Grill Entrecôte Steak ài la or Steak Entrec0te or of border of with aa border surround witb in butter, butter, surround fried in with ion rings rings fried onion with on chopped with chopped sprinkle with and sprinkle FONDUE), and Tomato fondue (see FONDUE), Tomatofondui(see parsley. parsley. ' Entrecôte garnish the steak, steak, garnish Grill the vert-pre -- Grill au vert-pré or Steak Steak au EnhecOte or waterof waterbunches of with bunches alternating with potatoes alternating with with straw straw potatoes (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see d hiltel butter Mattre d'hôtel with Maître cress, and serve serve with cress, and Compound butters). Compound butters). (Austrian cookery) cookery) -viennoise (Austrian Entrecôte Steak ài lala viennoise or Steak Entrec0te or and salt and with salt season with thoroughly, season flatten thoroughly, Beat to fiatten the steak steak to Beat the Covel lard'Cover briskly inin lard. and sauté saut6 briskly flour, and with flour, paprika, paprika, dredge dredge with drained, lard, drained, fried inin lard, been fried have been which bave with rings which wiih onion onion rings vinegar. and vinegar. and butter and with butter dressed with and dressed potatoes separately. separately. Serve boiled potatoes Serve boiled meat Concentrated meat BoEUF - - Concentrated DEBOEUF mseNcn DE Beef essence. ESSENCE Beef essence. (seebelow). below)' Beef-tea(see juice under Beef-tea described juice prepared as described under prepared as - Filets mignons - These ofthe the endof theend from the taken from cutsare aretaken Filets mignons - Thesecuts triggle; of atriangle; shapeofa theshape intothe trimmed into is trimmed fillet. migilonis fillet. Tbefilet Thelle tmignon too fillet'IfIfititisistoo thefillet. ofthe sizeof thesize its varies according according tototbe itsweight weighivaries twofilets provide two thusprovide andthus twoand filets big, dividedinintwo canbe bedivided big, ititcan mignons. mignons. forthe the usedfor· alsobebeused canalso beefcan Tbis filletofofbeef partofoftbe thefillet Thispart qtick pilafsand andquick bitki,pilafs onskewers, skewers,bitki, preparation pt"pataiion ofofsteak steakon sautés. saut6s. dip seasonit,it,dip slightly,season mignonslightly, Grilled. thefilet Flattenthe Gritted.Flatten filetmignon pressing breadcrumbs, pressing withbreadcrumbs, coverwith andcover into butterand meltedbutter intomelted breadcrumbs thebreadcrumbs makethe knifetotomake partofofthe theknife with flatpart withthe thefiat under cookunder andcook butterand meltedbutter withmelted adhere properfu.Sprinkle Sprinklewith adhereproperly. recommended garnishand andsauce saucerecommended a alow Serve with thegarnish withthe grill.-Serve lowgrill. the breadcrumbs, the cookedininbreadcrumbs, ininthe filletisiscooked thefillet recipe.As Asthe therecipe. 107 107

BEEF BEEF 1

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Division of a fil let of beef: ')lt",l".""|il'l:"'"'ifii,,.,.,""*., 1. Beefsteak; 2. Chateaubriand; 3. Fillet steaks; 4. Tournedos; Filetsmignons mignons 4. Tournedos; s.5.Filets

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halves. halves. Fillthe theinside insidewith pieces withpie gras,seasoned uncooked foie Fill ces ofofuncooked seasoned foiegras, andstudded piecesof with pieces studdedwith oftruffles. truffies.Close Closethe and thefillet, fillet,tietiewith with string, and andbrown brown ininaahot hotoyen. oven.Put Putinto intoa abraising string, pan braisingpan withthe the ingredients ingredients given givenininthe therecipe recipefor with forFillet Filletofofbeef beef Matignon.Moisten Moistenwith port,cook withport, Matignon. cookininthe theoyen, oven,and andcomcompleteasasdescribed described ininthe theabove-mentioned above-mentioned recipe. plete recipe.Surround Surround withPrince Prince Albert (largetruffles Albertgarnish garnish(large with truffiescooked cooked ininMadeira) Madeira) and mushroom mushroom caps capscooked cooked ininbutter. and butter. Thisfillet filletofbeefis of beef isalso known asasPrince alsoknown This Prince ofWales. of Wales. Fillet of of beef beefon onskewers. skewers. BROCHETTES BRocHETTEsDE Fillet DEFILET FrLErDE DEBOEUF BoEUF- Prepared inin the the same same way wayasasFil/ets Prepared Fillets of ofmullon muttonononskewers skewers (seeMUTION), MUTTON), using usingsquares (see squares of of fillet filletbeef, piecesofof beef, pieces blanched and and fried fried Jean lean bacon, bacon, and blanched and mushrooms. mushrooms. Cold fillet fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DEBOEUF Cold lets BoEUF FROID FRorD- - Cold Cold beef beeffilfillets garnished with can be be garnished with various variousvegetables, can vegetables, boiled, boiled,drained, drained, allowed to to cool cool and and mixed jelly. They allowed mixed with with half-set half-setaspic aspicjelly. They can also also be garnished with be garnished can with various various mousses. mousses. Full instructions instructions for for these preparations, as Full these preparations, asweil wellasasaa list list of appropriate appropriate garnishes, garnishes, will of will be be found found under under the the entry entrv COLD FOOOSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLO Jellied cold cold fillet Jellied fillet of of beef. beef. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEuF FROID FRorD ÀA LA u GELÉE cnrEr This method method isis mostly -- This mostly applied applied to pot-roasted or left-over pot-roasted to left-over or roasted fillet. fillet. If If the piece isis big roasted le, the piece big enough enough to to he beserved served who whole, jelly and cover itit with with aspic coyer aspic jelly jelly and and decorate decorate with with chopped chopped jelly and watercress. Or watercress. Or cut cut itit into into thin garnish with thin slices slices and and garnish with chopped chopped jelly and and watercress. watercress. jelly The fillet fillet can can also The also be be trimmed placed whole trimmed and and placed whole in in aa shalshallow serving serving dish, dish, and low and covered covered completely completely with with meat meat aspic aspic jelly flavoured with jelly flavoured with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry. sherry. green or Serve aa green Serve or aa vegetable vegetable salad salad with with the the fillet, fillet, as as weil well as Rémoulade, Tartare, etc. as aa cold cold sauce: sauce: Mayonnaise, Mayonnaise,Rimoulade,Tartqre, (see etc. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold fillet fiIlet of beef àI la la niçoise. nigoise. FILET FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoEUF FROID rnon ÀA LA r.q, NIÇOISE NrgorsE -- Roast Roast or pot-roast the or pot-roast fillet, keeping the fillet, keeping itit aa little little underdone. Leave underdone. Leave to get quite quite cold. to get cold. Line Line aa mould mould with with jelly, decorated tarragon-flavoured tarragon-flavoured jelly, decorated with with truffles, pieces of truffies, pieces of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg white, and and tarragon Ieaves leaves which have have been been blanched, dipped in cold cold water and and dried. dried. Put Put in in the fillet, the fillet, fil 1 the mould with jelly, jelly, and fill and leave leave to to set ice, or set on on ice, in the or in the refrigerator. Turn Turn out out onto onto aa dish, dish, on on aa foundation foundation of of jelly. tarragon-flavoured tarragon-flavoured

ing to to the the recipe recipechosen. chosen. Follow Follow the thespecial special instructions instructions ing

for braising, braising, frying, frying, roasting, roasting, under under CULINAR CULINARY y for METHODS. METHOOS. When the fillet is cooked, untie thestring and remove string and removethe the Wh en the fillet is cooked, untie the barding. Arrange Arrange on on aa heated heateddish, dish, surround surround with with the garthe garbarding. nish indicated, indicated, and juice or and serve serve with with its its own own juice or the the sauce sauce nish recommended. recommended. Fillet of of beef bed with garnish. FILET with garnish. FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoErrF GARNI cARNr - - For For Fillet various gamishes garnishes suitable suitable for for fillet fillet of of beef, beef, fried fried or or roast, roast, various see GARNISHES. GARNISHES. In In the the following following list list of of recommended recommended see garnishes, those those followed followed by (f) are by the the letter letter (f) are intended intended for for garnishes, fried fillets; fillets; the the others others are are suitable suitable both both for for fried fried and and roast roast fried fillets. fillets. Anver soise, Béatrix, B datr ix, bouquetière, bouquetiir e, Brillat-Savarin, Brillat- Savarin, bruxelbruxelAnversoise, loise, châtelaine (f), Clamart, chdtelaine (f), Clamart, dauphine, dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, favorite, loise, favorite, (f), forestière, (f), Frascati (f\, Godard Frascati ([), financiire (f), Godard forestiire, française frangaise (f), financière (f), hongroise, jardiniire, italienne hongroise, jardinière, (f), languedocienne, italienne (f), Ianguedocienne, (f), macidoine, massenet (f), mentonnaise mossenet ([), (f), milanaise mentonnaise (f), (f), milanaise (f), macédoine, (f), niçoise moderne ([), (f), nivernaise nigoise (f), (f), orientale, nivernare (f), parisienne, orientale, parisienne, moderne piimontaise (f), portugaise, portugaise, printanière, printaniire, provençale provengale (f), (f), piémontaise (f), renaissance (f), (f), Richelieu, Richelieu, romaine (f), Romanov romaine ([), (f), sarde Romanov (f), sarde renaissance (f), Saint-Germain, Saint-Germain, viennoise (f). viennoise (f). (f), Fried or or roast roast fillet fi.llet of of beef beef can can also also be be accompanied accompanied by by Fried buttered or braised vegetables, potatoes potatoes and pur6es of and purées of buttered or braised vegetables, various vegetables. vegetables. These These purées pur6es should be served separately. siparately. various Fillet of beef London "ouse. House. FILET FrLEr DE DE BOEUF BoEUF LONDON LoNDoN Filletof beef London prince Albert (see HousE This is same as (see below). HOUSE - This is the the saille as Fillet Fil/et Prince Fitlet MArrcNoN -- Lard Lard Fillet of of beef beef Matignon. Matignon. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF MATIGNON aa fillet of tongue (salt beef l'icarlate (salt beef tongue) fillet with with pieces pie ces of tongue àd l'écarlate (see and truffies cut into (see OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS), MEATS), and strips. of matignon (q.v.), in wide, strips. Cover Coyer with with a a layer layer of (q.v.), wrap in thin strine. thin rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, and and secure secure with with string. METHODS). Put into into a a braising braising pan pan (see (see CULINAR:Y CULINAR y METHOOS). _ _Fut Moisten Moisten with with Madeira, Madeira, and and cook cook with with the lid !id on for 1I hour. Drain and matignon. Drain the the fillet, fillet, remove rem ove the the bacon bacon rashers rashers and matignon. Glaze Glaze the the fillet fillet in in the the oven, oyen, arrange arrange on a dish dish on a cro0ton croûton of fried fried bread. bread. Surround with with garnish garnish dà la matignon. Strain the braising braising .. Surround liquor, skim off off surplus surplus fat, fa t, pour pour aa little litt le of of the the sau"" sauce aro.rnJ around liquor, skim the the fillet fillet and and serve serve the the rest rest separately. separately. Jl-lliiii.lr1

Special braising braising pan pan for for fillets fillets (D (Dehillerin. PhOf. Larousse) Larousse) Special ehillerin. Phot.

108 108

BEEF BEEF Marinate Marinate 12 12 small sm aU tomatoes tomatoes in in oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and pepper, pepper, remove remove the the insides, insides, and and stuffwith stuff with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) truffies. Stuff 12 12 artichoke artichoke hearts hearts with with green asparagus asparagus of trufres. tips; tips; place place these these round round the the beef. beef. Garnish Gamish further further with stoned stoned olives stuffed stuffed with with Anchovy Anchovy butter buller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound olives butters). butters). Put aa little chopped chopped jelly jelly between between each group of of garnish and decorate decorate the the edge of of the the dish with with jelly jelly cro0tons. croûtons. and Cold fiIlet fillet of beef beef ià la la parisienne. FrLEr FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF FRorD FROID Cold A À r,,c, LA pARTSTENNE PARlSIENNE -- Pot-roast Pot-roast or roast the the fillet and leave Jeave to jelly. Arrange on a dish, or cool. Trim, dry, and coat with jelly. on a buttered buttered cro0ton croûton ofbread, ofbread, or on on a foundation foundation ofcooked of cooked on rice. rice. Surround with with small timbales of Macidoine Macédoine of vege,tables .tables (see (see MACEDOINE). MACÉDOINE). Decorate Decorate the tbe disb dish with jelly croûtons. Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). cro0tons. Cold fillet of beef beef Ià la russe. russe. FrLET FILET DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A À rA LA m.rsss RUSSE Cook the the fillet as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Coldfillet of ofbeef beef Cook à la la parisienne parisienne and leave to get cold. cold . Cut out the central part, d leaving only a 'frame', with a narrow strip of about 4 to 55 leaving cm (2 inches) at each eacb end. Cut the cut-out eut-out meat into thin cm.. Q and put them them back back in in the the hollowed-out meat case, slices, and slices, pressing pressing them them in in tightly. tightly. Cover Coyer with with Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured truffles added. aspic jelly which has had chopped trufres fillet on aa bread bread croûton Arrange the fillet cro0ton or aa foundation of gamish with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, halved and cooked rice, and garnish hearts stuffed with vegetables covered with jelly, artichoke hearts dressed hearts eut dressed with mayonnaise, and lettuce hearts cut in quarters. Cold fllet fillet of beef à DE BOEUF la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. FILET FILET DE BoEUF Cold i la FROID A À r,c, LA STRASBOURGEOISE FRoID fillet srRA,snoLJRGEoIsE -- Prepare and cook cook the fillet as in the the recipe recipe for Fil/et of beef Prince Albert, Albert, as described described in for Fillet studding it witb truffles instead bacon . with trufles instead of strips of larding bacon. Leave to get cold. to get Trim the fillet and coyer port-flavoured jelly. Arrange cover with port-flavoured on a buttered croûton cooked ofcooked foundation of crofiton ofbread, ofbread, or on a foundation rice. rice. Gamish Garnish with truffles truffies cooked in port, cooled and dipped jelly, and in jelly, jelly and bunches of in of parsley. and with with chopped and bunches chopped jelly Decorate Decorate with jelly croûtons. crofitons. Fillet cut Fillet of beef or DÉTAlL ofuru -- Slices eut beef steaks. FILETS FILETs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF DE off fil let ofbeef prepared in any way suitable offfillet of beef can suitable for steaks, can be prepared rump rump steak and and tournedos. Grilled. fillet,, brush brush with Trim and flatten tbe the fillet Grilled. Trim and slightly slightly flatten butter or other fat, season and grill under aa brisk heat. pan in Sautéed. in aa sauté in Sautded. Season fillet and and cook cook in saut6 pan the fillet Season the butter. butter. Keep slightly slightly underdone. pr"rns FILETS Sm aU fillets DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Small Small flleb of beef. beef. PETITS FTLETS DE Small slices slices of fillets methods cut aa little bigger than All the the methods fillets eut than tournedos. Ali

Small fillets fillel s rià la nigoise niçoise (lzronsse) (Larousse)

of of cooking cooklng given for tournedos are applicable to small fillets. BoEUF A PETITs FILETs nigoise. PETITS Small Sm ail fillets of beef ài la niçoise. FILETS pe DE BOEUF À and place LA NIgoIsE Saut€ the fillets in butter, drain them and NIÇOISE - Sauté place middle Fill the the middle fried in crofiton of bread fried on aa croûton each on in butter. butter. Fill qooked French beans dressed with butter, dressed with of the dish with cooked little heap heap of small potatoes and place between each fillet aa little (or potato balls) cooked in in butter. juices with white wine, add Tomato fon&te add TomaLO Dilute the pan juices fondue chopped tarragon, FONDUE) flavoured with garlic and cbopped (see FONDUE) anchovy and pour the sauce over the fillets. Top with rolled ancbovy and with chopped chopped parsley. fillets and and sprinkle with fillets FORCEMEAT. Beef forcemeat for agnolotti -- See FORCEMEA Beefforcemeat T. pnr-os-cOrn -- Top part of of the the rib, Top part flank. PLAT-DE-CÔTE Forequarter flank. generally used for tbe the stockpot. generally can be be poached in brine for several days, it can After pickling in with and served aromatics, and served hot with and aromatics, in water with vegetables and green cabbage, garnish: braised braised green red cabbage, cabbage, braised braised red aa garnish: pur6es of fresh fresh or dried vegetables. and purées butter beans, and and can can be making stews, for making stews, and also be be used used for This eut cut can can also This (see below). as Pressed beef (see prepared as DE BOEUF BoEUF AVEC AvEc rnlclDELLEs DE beef. FRICADELLES Fricadelles of of cooked cooked beef. FricadeUes (remains (l* lb.) g. (lilb.) cooked cooked beef (remains Mince 750 750 g. culrE -- Mince vIANDE CUITE VLANDE g. piece of mix with with 350 350 g. beef) and and mix of aa piece or braised braised beef) of boiled boiled or (5 oz., g. (5 (12 oz., pur6e. Add 1| potato purée. 150 g. oz., li Add 150 o2.,1| cups) thick thick potato (12 li cups) whole eggs. Season Season bind with with 22 wb cups) chopped chopped onion, onion, and and bind cups) ole eggs. well. grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and mix weil. and grated with salt, salt, pepper and witb (4 oz.) g. (4 pieces of 100 g. Roll them about 100 oz.) each. each. Roll them into pieces of about Divide into into thick, and shape flat with flour, flour, and shape into thick, fiat on aa board board sprinkled sprinkled with on and finish cooking in butter butter and finish cooking cakes. Brown them on both sides sides in them on cakes. in in the the oyen. oven. Piquante or Robert sauce sauce well-spiced sauce: or Robert with aa well-spiced sauce: Piquante Serve with Serve (see SAUCE), puree. with aa vegetable purée. SAUCE), or or with (see BoEUF AVEC rnIc.a.DELLEs DE DE BOEUF AvEc Fricadelles of of raw raw beef. beef. FRICADELLES FricadelJes (U lb.) g. (lig. vIANDE CRUE 750 g. lb.) lean lean beef, 250 g. cRUE -- Chop Chop together together 750 beef, 250 VIANDE (9 oz.) and add add out, and and squeezed squeezed out, oz.') decrusted bread,, soaked soaked and (9 decrusted bread (4 oz., (12 oz., g. (4 g. (12 125 g. oz., 11 cup) cup) onion onion 350 g. l] cups) cups) butter, butter, 125 oz., l-t 350 and aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chopped and and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and chopped pepper and parsley. Bind and whole eggs, with salt, salt, pepper Bind with with 33 whole eggs, season season with parsley. grated nutmeg, and mix mix weil. well. pinch of nutmeg, and of grated aa pinch preas described in the described in the prePrepare and and cook cook the the fricadelles Prepare fricadelles as ceding recipe. recipe. ceding beef glaze. GLACE concentrated beef Boil down down concentrated Beef glaze. DE BOEUF BoELJF -- Boil Beef cLACE DE stock to to aa syrupy syrupy consistency. consistency. stock gravies andstews. glaze is and ste,ws. This glaze for flavouring flavouring sauces, sauces, gravies is used used for This (See EXTRACTS, EXTRACTS, Meat Meat extract.) extract.) (See (Hungarian cookery). A way way of of DE BOEUF BoEUF -- A curvs Goulash AS DE cookery). GULY Goulash (Hongarian paprika, or (or other or with paprika, stewing stewing beef beef (or other meat), meat), spiced spiced witb pepper. Hungarian red red pepper. Hungarian prepared in in are prepared These stews, in France, France, are in Hungary Hungary as as in Tbese stews, in given below popular methods below.. are given different ways. ways. Two Two popular methods are different

Grilled lets Grilled small small filfillets

109 109

BEEF BEEF shallot which which has has been been simmered simmeredinin aalittle little white white wine. wine. Put Put shallot this mixture mixture on on the cro0tes. Place the croûtes. Place the remaining marrow the remaining marrow this slices on on the the mixture, mixture, coyer cover with withfine finebreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, season slices season with freshly freshly ground ground pepper, pepper, and and brown brown ininaahot hot oyen. oven. with Medallions of of beef beeffillet. fillet. MÉDAILLONS rrlfolrr-r,oNs DE DEFILET FrLET DE DE BOEUF BoEUF - MedaUions Round slices slices of of fillet, fillet, rather rather smaller smaller than thantournedos. tournedos. Their Their Round weight varies varies between (3to between 80 80 and and 100 100g.g.(3 to 44oz.) oz.) and and they they can can weight prepared inin any be prepared any way way suitable suitable for fortournedos tournedos or or noisettes. noisettes. be They are are sometimes sometimes called called coeur coeur de de filet de boeuf boeuf. They filet de Miroton of of beef. beef. MIROTON MrRoroN DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Arrange Arrange thin Miroton thin slices slices of boiled boiled beef, beef, overlapping overlapping slightly, slightly, inin aa fireproof fireproof dish of dish on on aa (se SAUCE) foundation of thick foundation Lyonnaise sauce of Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE) mixed thick mixed with sliced sliced onions onions which which have have been been lightly lightly fried fried inin butter. with butter. Pour Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce over over the meat, sprinkle the meat, melted Pour sprinkle with with melted butter or or dripping, dripping, and and brown brown the butter the top top in in the oven.Sprinkle the oyen. Sprinkle parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. with pAuprETTEs DE Paupiettes of of beef. beef. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Paupiettes Paupiettes Paupiettesare are (q.v.) ballottines (q. made of of thin thin slices various meats, ballottines v.) made slices of of various meats, stuffed stuffed and rolled. rolled. and Flatten thin slices slices of of beef, beef, season pepper Fla tten thin th salt season wi with and pepper salt and and coyer cover with pork sausage with aa layer layer of of pork and or well-spiced well-spiced forcesausage or forcemeat. Roll into into the the shape large cork mea 1. Roll s, wrap of large corks, wrap in shape of rashers in thin thin rashers of bacon, baco4 and and tie with string. of tie with string. Braise the paupiettes,and the paupiettes, and moisten Braise moisten with with white white wine wine or or (see CULINARY Madeira (see Madeira CULINARY METHODS, Braising). METHODS, Braising). Remove bacon. bacon. Boil Boil down, Remove down, strain liquor and and strain the the braising braising liquor pour itit over paupiettes. Gamish. over the garnishes for pour the paupiettes. Garnish. Ail All garnishes for braised braised beef can can be be served paupiettes. Certain beef withpaupiettes. garnish, served with Certain types types of of garnish, as bourgeoise, such as bourgeoise, chipolata such chipolata sausages sausages or or small small onions, onions, should be be added added when when the paupiettes are should the paupiettes are half half cooked, cooked, with the covered with covered the strained strained braising braising liquor, liquor, and and left left to to finish finish panpiettes. cooking with with the cooking the paupiettes. Paupiettes of Paupiettes of beef prepared àit la beef can can he be prepared la bourguignonne bourguignonne (braised in garnish -- small in red red wine). (braised wine). The The gamish small onions, onions, lardoons lardoons (strips of pork) and of salt and mushrooms -- must (strips salt pork) must he be cooked cooked with with paupiettes. the the paupiettes. pAUpTETTBs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of of beef àI la la hongroise. hongroise. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF sosuF ÀA LA HONGROISE HoNGRorsr -- Stuff paupiettes with LA Stuff the the paupiettes with veal veal forcemeat forcemeat mixed with chopped mixed chopped onion onion fried frid inin butter. pan on butter. Place Place in in aa pan on aa foundation foundation of of more fried fried onion, onion, and and season with salt and season with salt and paprika. Put the pan and paprika. lid on the !id on the the pan and simmer for 10 l0 minutes. simmer for minutes. Moisten (+ pint, Moisten with with dry dry white white wine, wine, allowing pint, scant allowing 22 dl. dl. (t scant paupiettes. Boil cup) (* cup) for for 10 l0 paupiettes. Boil down, down, then add about about 44 dl. then add dl. (i pint, scant (se SAUCE). pint, scant 2 cups) cups) light ligfit Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put aa (q.v.) in garni (q.v.) bouquet garni in the middle of dish. Bring the middle of the the dish. Bring to to the the boil, coyer cover the pan, and cook in the oyen, oven, basting frequently. frequently. When the paupiettes paupiettes are are nearly done, done, drain remove drain them, them, remove barding, put back into the pan and add add 20 small small mushrooms lightly tossed in butter. Add cream to the sauce, sauce, boil down down aa little, and pour over the paupiettes. little, strain, and paupiettes. Cook Cook until until they they are are done. Serve Serve on cro0tons fried on croûtons fried in in butter, butter, covering covering them with them with sauce sauce and mushrooms. pArJprETTEs DE Paupiettes Paupiettes of beef with pilaf. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF BoEUF AU AU RIZ Rrz PILAF -- Prepare Paupiettes of beef with IILAF (see Prepare as as for for Paupiettes with risotto risotto (see below), replacing the risotto with with pilaf rice. pAUpTETTEs Paupiettes of beef with witb risotto. UPIETIES DE Paupiettes risotto. PA DE BOEUF BoEtJF AU AU paupiettes, glaze RISOTTO Rlsorro -- Cook the paupiettes, glaze them, and and serve serve with Risotto (see (see RICE). RICE). Simmer down Risotto down the liquor in in which which the paupiettes were braised, strain, and pour over them. pAUpTETTEs DE Paupiettes of of beef beef Sainte-Menehould. Paupiettes Saints.Menehould. PAUPIETTES DE BOEUF SATNTE-MENEHoULD SAINTE-MENEHOULD - Braise Braise the paupiettes until BoEUF the paupietfes until three-quarters done. Allow to cool three-quarters cool in the strained braising ftavoured with liquor. Drain, dry, and spread with mustard flavoured pinch of of cayenne pepper. Sprinkle a pinch Sprinkle with melted butter, roll in fresh breadcrumbs, and cook under aa moderate grill. Garnish with with watercress, watercress, and and serve with the the braising Garnish serve with liquor boiled down and strained.

Goulash Goulash

goulash J. Hungarian goulash I. GUL curyns DE BOEUF A LA BoEUF À u HONGROISE noNcnorsE -Hungarian y AS DE (31 lb.) Fry 1t l* kg. kg. (3t lb.) lean lean beef pieces, and beef cut cut into into pieces, and 22 medium medium Fry (4 OZ., onions, cut cut into into large large dice, g. (4 in 125 125 g. dice, in oz.,*t cup) cup) lard. lard. Season Season onions, with salt salt and and aa teaspoon paprika. teaspoon of of paprika. with When ail all the ingredients are the ingredients are weil well browned, g. browned, add add 500 500 g. When (generous lb.) lb.) tomatoes, peeled, seeded tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and diced. diced. Moisten Moisten (generous (] pint, pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (t cup) water, scant cup) water, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, coyer cover with with aa lid, lid, and and simmer for ($ pint, for 11| hours. Add pint, scant Add 22 dl. dl. (t scant t hours. with quartered potatoes, cup) water and and 44 quartered potatoes, and and continue continue to to cook cook cup) for about about another hour. for goulash n. II. GUL cury,cs DE BOEUF BoEUF À A LA u HONGROISE noNcnorsB Hungarian goulash y AS DE pieces of Brown pieces of beef beef and and chopped chopped onion onion in in lard. lard. Season Season -- Brown with salt and paprika. Sprinkle (3 tablespoons) Sprinkle 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) with flour into into the pan and cook for aa few moments. moments. Add Add enough enough ftour (| pint, cover the meat,22 dl. pint, scant the meat, dl. (t scant cup) cup) clear brown stock to coyer pur6e, and (q.v.). Stir, tomato purée, garni (q.v.). and aa bouquet garni Stir, bring to the bring to the tomato boil, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for 2| hours. hours. Serve Serve with boil, coyer, potatoes. boiled potatoes. Beef BoEUF AU AU GROS cRos SEL ssr -- Boiled meat, meat, served served Beef au gros sel. BOEUF garnished with the vegetables with which it was cooked, hot, gamished and (See BOUILLON, sea salt. (See BOUILLON, SOUP.) and sea called steak à I l'allemande). I'allemande). BIFTECK BTFTEcK Hamburger steak (also caUed A a00 g. (14 oz.) beef, taken À rl LA glrunouRcEorsr HAMBOURGEOISE -- Mince finely 400 from contre-filet or fillet. Add g. (2 (2 OZ., 50 g. oz., t cup) cup) chopped, chopped, Add 50 from lightly onion, and and 22 raw eggs. eggs. Season Season weil well with with salt, lightly fried fried onion, pepper grated nutmeg, and shape shape into 4 fiat flat cakes. pepper and grated Dredge and fry fry in clarified butter, in clarified butter, keeping Dredge with with flour ftour and them just right when little them a little underdone inside (they are just beads of blood forrn surface). Put Put aa tablespoon of form on on the the surface). sliced onion, on each steak. on ion, fried in butter, on Beef Beef hash. HAcHrs HACHIS DE BoEUF BOEUF -- This is made made out of boiled or braised left-over meat. Recipes for beef hashes will be the section be found under the section HASHES. HASHES. They They can be made made in scallop scallop shells, as kromeskies, kromeskies, croquettes, auxfines aux fines herbes, d à la honggoise, hongroise, àd l'italienne, àd la Iyonnaise, lyonnaise, Parmentier, Parmentier, dà Ia la polonaise, polonaise, dà la la portugaise. portugaise. juices. rus juices, usually Beef Beefjuices. JUS DE DE BoEUF BOEUFThesejuices, usually called. ca lied jus jus de - These viande, are used in building-up diets, and and are obtained by pressing pressing grilled grilled lean slices s!ices of of beef beef in a special apparatus. Keftedes Keftedes of beef beef (German cookery). KEFTEDES KEFfEDES DE DE BoEuF BOEUF Prepare Prepare Hamburger Hamburger steaks omitting omitting the the onion garnish. This method method of of preparation preparation can also be applied to other other meat. meat. It is is similar to bitki or cutlets cutlets d à Ia la Pozharsky, which which can of veal, veal, chicken crucken or game, and fish. can be be made made of Ox Ox (beef) (beef) liver. Iiver. ron FOIE DE DE BoETJF BOEUF - This is less delicate than calf's liver. liver. All Ali recipes recipes for calf's liver are are suitable for ox ox (beef) OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) (beef) liver. liver. (See (See OFFAL Beef Beef marrow marrow on cro0tes. croûtes. cno0rgs CROÛTES A À r,q, LA L{onnr MOELLE - Poach Poach slices slices of of marrow marrow in in salted salted water, water, and drain thoroughly. Fry Fry slices slices of of bread bread in in butter. butter. Chop Chop a slice of of the the marrow marrow in small pieces and mix mix with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock and and aa chopped pieces and

2t

110 ll0

BEEF BEEF

( Robert Carrier) Ragoit Ragoût ofb€ef of beef(Roberl Carrier)

good vegetables acquire and the When the When the meat meat and the vegetables acquire aa good colour, colour, stock and clear brown moisten with flour, moisten in sorne some flour, sprinkle in sprinkle with clear brown stock and garlic clove. (q.v.) a crushed and garni bouquet garni (q.v.) and a crushed garlic clove. Add aa bouquet mix. mix. Add place the Drain, and l] hours. for It lid on, on, for with the the lid Simmer, with hours. Drain, and place the Simmer, dish. ovenware a large meat in pieces of pieces of meat in a large ovenware dish. sauce' Boil down down the meat. Boil garnish on of the on top top of Put aa garnish Put the meat. the sauce, in cooking in the cookjng Complete the ragofit. Complete pour over over the the ragoût. and pour strain and strain dish uncovered. uncovered. the dish with the hours, with for 1l]t hours, the oyen oven for the bourBourgeoise, bourragofits: Bourgeoise, beef ragoûts: for beef suitable for Garnishes suitable Garnishes chestnuts, mushrooms, chestnuts, sausages, mushrooms, guignonne, chipolata chipolata sausages, guignonne, salsify. salsify. and are then wine, and red wine, with red moistened with be moistened ragofits can can be Beef ragoûts Beef are then popular not only dish lt is a la bourguignonne. beef d called called beef à la bourguignonne. It is a popular dish not only also in Paris, where it but also originates, but where itit originates, Burgundy, where in Burgundy, in in Paris, where it esrestaurants, essmall restaurants, of smaU menus of the menus on the daily on almost daily figures almost figures these menus the On merchants. On these wine merchants. kept by by wine pecially those those kept menus the pecially Bourguignon. as Bourguignon. described as dish isis described dish lean of lean consists of bourguignonne consists la bourguignonne garnish for for beef beef àd la The garnish The glazed onions small glazed browned, small and browned, bacon, scalded scalded and rashers of of bacon, on ions rashers mushrooms. and mushrooms. and alsocalled called train train This cut cut isis also BoEUF -- This DE BOEUF c0rs DE beef. CÔTE of beef. Rib of Rib and train dicouvert and de côtes cbtes découvert ftain de into train divided into de côtes. c\tes.It It isis divided train de couvert. de côtes cdtes couvert. de which entrecdtes, which or entrecôtes, in slices slices or cut in rib isis cut the rib When boned, boned, the When (see Entrecite). grilled (see are then then grilled are Entrecôte). are excellent. beef are whole, ribs ribs of of beef braised whole, Roasted or or braised Roasted excellent. mobile on aa mobile served on rib of of beef beef isis served roast rib restaurants roast In big big restaurants In garnish or guests. The ofthe front in front of the guests. The garnish carved in and isiscarved hotplate, and hotplate, or same trolley in bains' the same kept on on the gravyand arealso also kept and sauce sauceare trolley in bainsgravy marie. marie. red meats and must be like aU all red treated Iike beef isistreated Roast rib rib of of beef Roast meats and must be (see CULINARY METHODS, inside (see the inside underdone on on the underdone CULINAR y METHODS, roasts). times forroasts). cooking timesfor Average cooking Average prepared ininthe thesame same way as Top rump' ribofbeefis of beef isprepared Braised rib Braised way as Top rump.

Paupiettes of beef with vegetables. PAUPIETTES Paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF garnished and serve serve garnished Braise the paupiettes paupiettes and - Braise green beans, green broad beans, vegetables: buttered French beans, with vegetables: beans, broad glazed carrots, carrots, lettuce, glazed endive, lettuce, celery, endive, peas, etc., etc., braised braised celery, peas, various prepared in in various etc., potatoes onions, etc., small onions, turnips, small turnips, potatoes prepared fresh vegetables. pur6es of dried or fresh dried or ways, purées ways, the sirloin. sirloin' of the Cut from the chump end of steak-- Cut Porterhouse steak Porterhouse pnsss6 -- Pressed is served served which is beef, which Pressed beef, soruF PRESSÉ beef. BOEUF Pressed beef. Pressed the in the ready-cooked in usually bought bought ready-cooked as an hors-d'euvre, isis usually an hors-d'œuvre, as at home. made at can be be made but itit can shops, but shops, trussing (61 lb.) prick with with aa thick thick trussing lb.) brisket, brisket, prick kg. (61 Take 33 kg. Take process is is The process l0 days. days. The for 88 to to 10 pickle in brine for in brine and pickle needle, and needle, winter. in win than in quickly in in summer summer than more quickly completed more completed ter. Pickled for Pickled used for as that that used same as pickling brine the same brine isis the The pick!ing The (see OFF must be be taken taken Care must (scarlet) beef OFFAL). tongue (see beef or or ox ox lOngue (scarlet) AL). Care cover liquid; coyer in the the liquid; submerged in beef isis completely completely submerged the beef that the that top. put aa weight on top. weight on and put wooden board board and with aa wooden with pieces to fit the the to fit into pieces cut into and cut water and in cold cold water beef in Wash the the beef Wash in water water placed' Cook Cook in will later later be be placed. in which which they they will moulds mou Ids in After leeks. After of leeks. quarters and bunch of and aa bunch cut inin quarters with aa carrot carrot cut with cover moulds, put into into square square mou drain, put cooking, drain, thorough cooking, thorough Ids, coyer top. put aa weight on top. weight on and put wooden board board and with aa wooden with moulds. the moulds. out of of the quite cold, cold, take take out meat isis quite When the the meat When with and mixed mixed with been diluted diluted and gelatine which has been which has with gelatine Coat with Coat add set, add layer isisset, one layer When one carmine. When little carmine. and aa!ittle burnt sugar sugar and burnt for protective covering covering for make aa protective These make another. These another, then then another. another, time. for sorne keep for some time. to keep enabling itit to the meat, meat, enabling the fresh with fresh and decorate decorate with into thin thin slices slices and cut into To serve, serve, cut To parsley. parsley. shoulder of rump, rump, shoulder Pieces of DEBOEUF BoEUF- - Pieces RAGoOrs DE Beef ragotts. RAGOÛTS Beefragoûts. and cut cut into into meat and Bone the themeat ragottts. Bone forthese theseragoûts. areused usedfor or rib ribare or butter, or butter, dripping or Brown inindripping oz.). Brown l00 g.g.(4(4oz.). piecesof about 100 ofabout pieces quarters. Season Season intoquarters. cutinto andcarrots carrots cut withonions onions and together with together pepper. and pepper. withsalt saltand with

nux

rfcuvms AUX LÉGUMES

lll III

BEEF

BEEF

fub of beef Rib ofbeef

Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with all the gar_ .Rib of beef (roast or braised) is served with ail the garnishes

recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When rouJt.d, nishes recommended for contre-filet and fillet. When roasted, it_is usually served wiih its own juices, clear and strong; it is usually served with its own juices, clear and strong; when braised, with the braising llquor boiled down. fi'e when braised, with the braising liquor boiled down. The left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes. left-overs of rib of beef can be made into various dishes, recipes for which are given under EUINCE. HASH: recipes for which are given under ÉMINCÉ, HASH, SALPICON SALPICON. Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Cover with pieces of fat Roast in the oven. Trim the ribs. Coyer with pieces of fat beaten flat, and tie with string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle beaten fiat, and tie string. Brush with dripping, sprinkle with salt, put in with roasting pan pan and and cook cook in ln ihe on"rr. with salt, put in aa roasting the oyen, uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot uncovered. When cooked, remove string, trim, and keep hot until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the until ready to serve. Garnish and serve as indicated in the recipe. recipe.

Decorating a aroast roast(French GovernmentTOlJrisl TouristOffice) Decorating (French GOl'ernment Office)

proceed asas Braised rib rib ofof beef. beef.CÔTE cdrn DE DEBOEUF BoEUFBRAISÉE nR.clsfE- - Proceed Braised described in in the the recipe recipefor for Braised Braisedbeef. beef. described Note. To To braise, braise, use piecesof usepieces ofrib, rib,cut cutinin thick Note. thickslices slices weighweighing from (t+ toto 6} from 22 toto 33 kg. ke. (4! 6| lb.). lb.). ing Cotd rib of of beef beef ài la la mode. mode.CÔTE c6rs DE or BOEUF BoEUF FROIDE Co Id rib FRoTDE ÀALA re,MODE uooE Proceed as asfor Top rump (see below). rump àdla la mode mode (see -- Proceed for Top below). Rib of of beef beef with garnish" CÔTE with garnish. oOTE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF GARNlE Rib GARNTE- - For For garnishes suitable suitable for for roast roast or or braised gamishes braised ribs ribs of of beef, beef, see see GARNISHES. The The following following are are the principal gamishes: GARNISHES. garnishes: the principal (b) following letter following the the name name of garnish indicates of the let ter (b) the garnish indicates that that is intended intended for for braised braised rib rib of itit is of beef: beef: (b), bourguignonne B our g eo ise (b), (b), bruxelloise, bourguignonne (b), Bourgeoise brux e t Io is e,chipolata chipolata (b), dauphine, sausages (b), dauphine, duchesse, duchesse, flamande, sausages hongroise, flamande, hongroise, jardiniire, loruaine, lyonnaise, lyonnaise, macédoine, jardinière, lorraine, maci do ine, maraîchère, maraichire, milanmilanaise, moderne, moderne, nivernaise, parisienne, piémontaise, nivernaise, parisienne, piimontaise, potatoes aise, potatoes cooked in in various various ways, portugaise, Richelieu. ways, portugaise, cooked Richelieu. In addition addition to garnishes, roast to these these gamishes, In roast ribs ribs of of beef beef can can be be served with with buttered buttered or or braised served braised vegetables, vegetables, and and purées purdes of of vegetables. c0rB DE oe BOEUF BoEr.rF À Jellied rib of beef. beef. CÔTE A LA rl GELÉE cnrEr -- Trim Trim leftleft_ over rib rib of of beef, cover with with slightly over beef, coyer slightly coloured coloured aspic aspic jelly, garnish jelly and with chopped chopped jelly garnish with and watercress, watercress, and and decorate decoraie jelly croûtons. the border of the border of the dish with jelly crofftons. Jellied of beef can can be lellied rib rib of be accompanied accompanied by by various various plain plain or mixed salads. mixed salads. Roast of beef ià l'anglaise. Roast rib rib of I'anglaise. CÔTE cOrs DE or BOEUF BoEUF RÔTIE norm ÀA L',q,NGLarsn L'ANGLAISE - Roast Roast the the rib as as described the preceding described in in the recipes recipes but allow a little more cooking time. Serve with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, pudding, baked baked in in the the drippingServe with dripping_ pan pan if if the the joint joint is cooked on a a spit, spit, or in an an ordinary-pai, ordinary pan, using using beef beef drippings drippings for fat, ifif the the joint joint is cooked cooked in thi the oyen. oven.

Roast rib ofbeef(boned and rolled) Roast rib of beef (boned and rolled)

Roasting Roasting on on aaspit. spil. Trim Trim the the rib. rib. Tie Tie with with string string as as described described above. above. Brush Brush with with dripping, dripping, season season with with salt, salt, and and cook cook in in front a hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate front of ofa hot fire to seal the juices. Reduce to a more moderate heat heat to to ensure ensure that that the the meat meat cooks cooks through. through. Take Take offthe off the spit spit and and proceed proceed as as described described above. above. of beef Rib of beef roasted roasted on on aa spit spit should should be be taken taken off off the the spit spit Bib and and kept kept in in aa slow slow oven oyen 30 30 minutes minutes to to t1 hour, hour, depending depending on on size size (this (this applies applies to to whole whole roast roast rib). rib). The The cooking cooking is is thui thus completed completed and and the the meat meat settles settles in in the the gentle gentle heat heat lnd and be_ becomes more tender. cornes more tender. Rib Rib of of beef beef ià la la bouquetilre. bouquetière. c6rr CÔTE DE DE BoEuF BOEUF A À LA LA BoueuErriRn Cut aa thick thick slice slice (containing (containing two two bones) bones) off off BOUQUETIÈRE -- Cut aa trimmed trimmed rib rib of ofbeef. beef. Season Season this this slice slice of ofrib rib and and cook cook in in aa saut6 sautépan pan in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Drain, and and garnish garnish with with carrots carrots and and turnips tumips cut cut to to aa uniuni_ Drain, form form size, size, French French beans, beans, artichoke artichoke hearti hearts stuffed stuffed with with garden garden peas, peas, new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in rn butter, butter, florets fiorets of of cauliflower. caulifiower. juices Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with Madeira, Madeira, add add aa little little demidemiglace glace(q.v.) (q.v.)and and pour pourover over the the rib rib of ofbeef. beef.

Sirloinjoint jointready readyfor for roasting roasting Sirloin

tt2 112

BEEF BEEF be becooked cooked together, together, without without boning. boning. ItItisisnot not found found inin retail retail

Roast Roas! beef. beef. nossr ROSBIF -- Rib Rib roaSts, roasts, fillets fillets (U.S. (U.S. tenderloin) tenderloin) sirloin sirloin and and rump rump make make excellent excellent roasts. roasts. The The meat meat should should be be covered covered with with dripping dripping or or other other fat fat and and roasted roasted in in aa

markets markets in in U.S., U.S., b:ut but aa sirloin sir/oin roast roast can can substitute substitute in in the the following followingrecipes. recipes. When When the the sirloin ,idoin is is cooked cooked whole, whole, the the top top has has to to be be trimmed trimmed otr offslightly slightly and and the theligament ligament all al! along along the the chine chine has has just is inside to to be be severed severed in in several severa! places. places. The The fillet, fillet, which which is just inside this should have have quite quite aa lot lot of offat fat left left on on it; it; some some of ofthe the this cut, eut, should fat fat surrounding surrounding itit should should be be cut eut off. off. After After having having been been thus th us trimmed, trimmed, the the joint joint isis seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and tied tied with with string. string. The The sirloin, sirloin, served served as as aa meat meat remove, remove, isis generally generally roasted. roasted. ItIl isis cooked cooked either either on on aa spit spit or or in in the the oven oyen and and kept kept aa little little underdone underdone inside. inside. ItIt can can also also be be braised, braised, cut eut into into pieces pieces 22 to to (see 33 kg. kg. (4 (4t to to 6| lit lb.), lb.), in in the the usual usual manner manner (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Braising). Braising). A LA Sirloin la d'Albuf6ra d'Albuféra (CarGme's (Carême's recipe). recipe). lroYlu ALOYAU À r.l Sirloin ià la o'llsuFERA I)'ALDUFÉRA -- 'Prepare, 'Prepare, braise braise and and glazn glaze a a sirloin. sirloin. Pour Pour round round ita it a ragofit ragoût made made in in the the following following manner: manner: Put Put some sorne of of (see the the pan pan juices juices and and aa little little fresh fresh butter butter into into Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add to to itit aa plateful plateful each each of of lightly lightly fried fried calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, salt sait beef beef tongue ton gue and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Bring Bring the the of fillets ragofit ragoût to to the the boil boil once. once. Garnish Gamish with with sliced sliced fillets of young young rabbits rabbits d à ta la Orly. Orly. Decorate Decorate with with attelets allelelS (q.v.); (q.v.); put put on on the the

moderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (see (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, AverAverage agecooking cooking timesfor limes for roasts). roaslS). Rump Rump of of beef. beef. culorrE CULOTTE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF --. This This cut cut represents represents what what isis left left of of the the hindquarter hindquarter after after the the sirloin sirloin has has been been cut eut off. off. ItItisis first first category category beefand beef and isis braised braised and and used used for for stocks. stocks. The Thetop top of ofthe the rump, rump, commonly commonlyknown known as aspidce pièce de de boeuf,is boeuf, is served as aa remove. remove. All Ali the the recipes recipes applicable applicable to to itil will will be be served as found found under under Top Top rump rump (see (see below). below). Rump Rump steak. steak. RoMsrEcK ROMSTECK -- Rump Rump steak steak is i5 aa slice slicc of of beef, beef, varying varying in in thickness, thickness, taken taken from from the the top top of of sirloin sirloin (U.S. (lI.S. face face of of the the rump), rump), or or the the lower lower part part of of the the sirloin, sirloin, formed formed by by the the thick, thick, fleshy fJeshy parts parts which which cover cover the the pelvic pel vic girdle' girdle. This This cut eut isis used used for for roasts roasts and and is is also also excellent excellent when when braised, braised, but bU! isis chiefly preferred grilled. grilled. chiefly preferred Rump Rump steak steak can can be be cooked cooked in in any any way way suitable suitable for for beefbeefsteaks and and fillets. tillets. steaks Grilled. Grilled. Proceed Procecd as as described described for Entecdte, Entrecôte, grilled. gri/led. Sautied. Sautéed. Proceed Proeeed as as described described fot for Entrec|te, Entrecôte, sautied. sautéed. and smoked smoked beef. beef. soeuF BOEUF s,c,Lf SALÉ er ET ruuf FUMÉ - Suitable Suitable Salt and principally principally for brisket, but but top rump rump and shoulder shoulder of of beef beef (chuck) (chuck) can also be be prepared prepared in this thi, manner. manner. been kept in brine (in (in the same way way as as ox After having been tongue) for a period penod of of time according according to season, these cuts cuts tongue) are desalted and cooked in in water, allowing 15 15 minutes minutes per per (1 lb.). 500 g. (1 Salt beef beef is served hot, accompanied accompanied by by various valious vegetables vegetables general, in general, and, in (braised red or green cabbage, sauerkraut) and, with all ail vegetables vegetables normally served with with poached poached beef' beef. It Il is is as cool under To serve serve cold, also used also used in potie. potée. To cold, cool under aa press, press, as described in the earlier recipe recipe for Pressed beef. beef, described in Smoked beef, Smoked beef, which which must must be be pickled pickled in in brine brine before It is is salt beef' being smoked, smoked, is prepared in the same way as salt beef. lt hot or cold. served hot prepared are prepared These are DE DOEUF BoEUF -- These s.q,urFs DE of beef. beef. SAUTÉS Saut6s of Sautés pieces. Season in pieces. cut in fillet and centre centre fil parts of rump rump and from let eut from parts keeping underpepper. Sauté Saut6 briskly in butter, keeping with salt and pepper. undermeat as the meat as soon soon as from the pan as Remove from inside. Remove done done on the imide. juices with wine, with wine, Dilute the the pan juices hot. Dilute and keep keep hot. is is browned, and (q.v.), boil demi-glace (q. or demi-glace veal stock stock or add thickened thickened brown brown veal add v.), boil pan, into the the pan, pieces of back into of beef back Put the the pieees down, and and strain. strain. Put down, boiling' without boiling. pour the and reheat without them, and the sauce sauce over over them, garvarious garwith various be cooked cooked with can be beef can of beef Saut6s of of fillet fillet of Sautés as the beef; butter as the beef; in the the same same butter cooked in nishes; nishes: mushrooms cooked butter; in the the same same butter: lightly tossed tossed in slices, lightly cut in in thick thick sliees, truffies, cut tru.ffles, added to the beef beef to the butter, added and fried frid inin butter, potatoes, eut cut in in dice dice and potatoes, or fresh buttered or timbale; fresh into aa timbale; has been transferred into after after itit has been transferred glazed vegeta vegetables. glazed bles. preparing for preparing are also also suitable suitable for methods are The following following methods The juices being with pan juices diluted with being diluted crime, the the pan h crème, of beef: beef; àit la sautés saut6s of bourguignonne, cream ;àd la la bourguignonne, with fresh fresh cream; and moistened moistened with Madeira and Madeird garnish of juices diluted lean of lean with aa garnish wine, with red wine, pan juices with red diluted with pan glazed and smal! fried, and small glazed and fried, blanched and rashers of of bacon, bacon, blanched rashers provengale, the the in butter; butter; àd lala provençale, saut€ed in mushrooms sautéed onions and mushrooms onions and with juices diluted moistened with and moistened wine and white wine with white pan juices pan diluted with (seeTOMATO). TOMATO). TomalOfondue Tomato fondue (see border with aa border be served surrounded with also be served surrounded can al50 Sauté of beef beef can Saut6 of pilaf or risotto. rice pilaf or risotto. of of lice part of the of the Fleshy part BoEUF -- Fleshy DE BOEUf PALERoN DE beef. PALERON Shoulder Shoutder of of beef. be also be canalso but itit can stock, but for ma making used for shoulder. king stock, shoulder.ItIt isis mainly mainly used into stews. stews. made into rump, and and made as top braised, braised, as top rump, in the the classed in whichisisc1assed Thiseut, cut,which BoEUFDE130EUf - This Sirioin. Sirloin. ALOYAU ALoyAUDE hook from the thehook part of animal from ofthe theanimal the part firstcategory category of of beef, beef,isisthe tirst (U.S. or faux-filet contre-filet or thecontre-filet includesthe the first firstribs. ribs. ItIt includes totothe faux-filer (U.S. called onlycalled (U.S. tenderloin). tenderloin). ItIt isisonly fillet (U.S. beef fillet 5irloin) sirloin)and and the thebeef should whichshould cuts, which twocuts, these two includes these when en ititincludes aloyau (sirloin) wh aloyau(sirloin)

attelet alle/et first first aa plump plump double double cock's cock's comb, comb, then then aa slice slice of of rabbit rabbit

dà la la Orly, Orly, then tben another another cock's cock's comb comb and and a a glazed glazed black black trufle.' truffle.'

Braised Braised sirloin sirloin. ALoYAU ALOYAU nnxsf I3RAISÉ - Trim Trun a a piece piece of of sirloin, sirloin, cutting cutting across across the the joint, joint, with with the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. Lard Lard it it salt, with with thick thick lardoons, lardoons, which which have have been been seasoned seasoned with with salt, parsley and with chopped pepper spices, sprinkled pepper and and spiees, sprinkled with chopped parsJey and an hour steeped steeped for for an ho ur in in aa sprinkling sprinkling of of brandy brandy with with carrots carrots and braise. Tie with string and and and onions. onions. Tie with string braise. off fat, skim off Reduce Reduce pan pan juices, juiees, skim fat, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the serving. sirloin before sirloin before serving.

BRAIsf AvEc garnishes. ALoYAU sirloin with Braised sirloin Braised with variou varions garnishes. ALOYAU BRAiSÉ AVEC above. as described described above. sirloin as sirloin around garnishes, disposed disposed around following gamishes, of the the following one of Serve with Serve with one Bourgeoise, bruxelloise, bruxelloise, separately: meat or or served served separa the meat the tely : Bourgeoise, Dubarry, kohlrabi, Dubarry, sauerkraut, kohlrabi, chipolata sausages, sausages, sauerkraut, celery, chipolata celery, jardinidre, milanaise, napolitaine, milanaise, napolitaine, duchesse, flamande, flarnande, jardinière, duchesse, Riche' potatoes, various po noodles, .piimontaise, ta toes, provengale, provençale, Richenoodles, piémontaise, various (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). risotto (see lieu, risol/o lieu, DE DESSERTE DE roast. DESSERTE pieces braised or roast. braised or left-over pieces Sirloin, left-over Sidoin, preparation of Rlb of Rib given for for the the preparation recipes given All the the recipes L'ALovAU L' ALOY AU -- Ali sirloin. applicable to to sirloin. are applicable Contre-filet are of beef or or Contre-filet ofbeef completely meat has has been been completely after the the meat remain after Bones which which remain Bones (see STOCKS)Beef stock stock (sœ for makiog making Beef can be be uscd used for used up up can used STOCKS). whole or or cooked whole can be be cooked n6n -- This This can ALoYAU RÔTI Roa$ sirloin. sirloin. ALOYAU Roast light leaving aa Iigbt trim the the sirloin, sirloin, leaving pieces. Cut off the the top top.and in pieces. Cut off in and trim during prevent itit from from drying drying during fillet, to prevent the fille fat on layer of of fat on the t, to layer Tie with with string. string. cooking. Tie cooking. instrucfollowing the the instrucoven, by by following in the the oven, or in Roast it, it, on on aa spit spit or Roast (see CULINARY meats (sœ of red red meats given for cooking of for the the cooking tions given tions CULINARY its own own serve its and serve watercress and with watercress Garnish with METHODS). Garnish METHODS). GARNITURES GARNITURES DIvERsEs DIVERSES - Braise Braise the the

juices separately. separately. juices Trim L'lNctrusn - Trim nOn ÀA L'ANGLAISEALoYAU RÔTI l'anglaise. ALOYAU Roast sirloin sirloin ài l'anglaise. Roast joint, enclose water, and hot hot water, paste made made offlour of flour and in paste enclose in and tie tie the the joint, and beef fat fat and salted salted beef quarter of of chopped chopped and its weight weight of of its with one one quarter with and crust and remove the the crust cooked, remove nearly cooked, When nearly added to to il.it. When added joint. brown the the joint. brown (q.v.) in the roasting pudding (q. the roasting cooked in Yorkshire pudding with Yorkshire Serve with Serve v.) cooked juices. joint's own own juices. pan, and the joint's and the pan, Roast n6n -- Roast gamishes. ALOYAU ALoYAU RÔTI various gamishes. with various sirloin \\llh Roast sirloin Roas! garnishes joint asasdescribed thegamishes with one oneof of the above.Serve Serve with described above. thejoint the braisedor or The sir/oin, sirloin, braised Braised sir/oin. sirloin. The for Braised recommended for recommended garnishes recomrecomby the the garnishes accompanied by also be beaccompanied canal50 roasted, can roasted, (U.S. sirloin), Fillet ofbeef of beef RiDand andFil/el sirloin), Rib forContre-filet Contre-filet (U.S. mendedfor mended (U.S. tenderloin). tenderloin). (U.S.

113 113

BEEF

BEEF

Sliced beef with various sauces. frrarNcfu DE BoEUF _ LeftSliced beef with various sauces. ÉMINCÉS DE BOEUF - Leftpoached, over braised or roast meat is usually used for this or roast meat is usually used for this over dish.poached, Cut the braised piece of meat into thin slices, ind pour over dish. Cut the piece of meat into thin slices, and pour over them one of the following sauces: Bordelaisei:, bourluignonne, them one of the following sauces: Bordelaise, bourguignonne, charcutiire, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italiinni, lyon_ charcutière, chasseur, duxelles, fines herbes, italienne, lyonnaise, Madeira, piquant po ivrade. naise, Madeira, piquante,e,poivrade. Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contre_filet, Entre_ Steak - See Beefsteak, Chateaubriand, Contrefilet, Entrecite, etc. côte, etc. Ox tail - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS. Ox tail-See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS.

Poached.Tie Tiewith withstring stringand andcook, cook,with withthe garnish, theusual usualgarnish, Poached. pot-au-feulsee largestock stockpot, indicatedforforPot-au-feu SbUpSy. inina alarge pot, asasindicated (see SOUPS). Bringtotothe thebail, boil,remove removescum, scum,season, season,and andleave leavetotosimmer Bring simmer for4 4toto5 5hours. hours.Drain Drainthe themeat, removestring, meat,remove string,and andserve for serve withitsitsown ownstrained strainedliquor, liquor,grated gratedhorseradish, horseradish,and androck rock with salt. salt.

tmerican marmite for beef-tea American marmite for beef-tea

Beef-tea Concentrated consommé consomm6 or or meat meat JUlee, ob_ iuice. obBeef-tea -- Coneentrated tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and seaiing them tained by cutting lean beef into small dice and sealing them hermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special-screwhermetically in a wide-necked bottle, or in a special screwtop pewter receptacle (American marmite). put into a pan of top pewter receptacle (American marmite). Put into a pan of boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes. boiling water for 40 to 50 minutes. 500 g. (l lb.) meat will give about 150 g. (a to 5 oz.) liquid. 500 g. (lIb.) meat will give about 150 g. (4 to 5 oz.) liquid. Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value than ordinary meat_ Beef-tea has a greater nutritive value th an ordinary meatstock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convaliscents. stock but it is chiefly given, in small doses, to convalescents, for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awaken_ for stimulating the secretion of digestive glands and awakening ing the the appetite. appetite. Tongue - See OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS, Beef or Ox Tongue - See OFF AL or V ARIETY MEATS, Beef or tongue. tongue. Toprump. pricr pn soeur (rorNrr on curorrn) (See Rump Top rump. PIÈCE DE BOEUF (POINTE DE CULOTTE) -- (See Rump of beef) Top rump is sometimescalled,pointe de'culotte. but is of beef) Top rump is sometimes called pointe de culotte, but is more frequently described on menus as piice de boeuf. more frequently described on menus as pièce de boeuf Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6+Jb.) piece of top rump with Braised. Lard a 3-kg. (6t-lb.) piece of top rump with strips strips of of salt salt pork, pork, well weil seasoned seasoned and and sprinkledwith sprinkled with brandy. brandy. Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spices, and tie Season the meat with fine salt, pepper and spi ces, and tie with with string. string. Marinate Marinate for for 55 hours hours in in wine wine with with thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, parsley parsley and a and a crushed crushed clove c10ve ofgarlic. of garlic. Drain and dry Drain and dry the the meat meat with with aa cloth. c1oth. Brown Brown in in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. Fry Fry 22 sliced sliced onions onions and and 22 sliced sliced carrots carrots in in butter. butter, put them into a braising pan with l] kg. (3* lb.) fleshy bones, put them into a braising pan with 1t kg. (3i lb.) fleshy bones, aa calf's calf's knuckle knuckle chopped chopped into into small small pieces pieces and and browned browned in in the the oven, aven, 22 calf's calf's feei, feet, boned, boned, scalded, scalded, dipped dipped in in cold co Id water water and and tied tied with with string, string, and and aa bouquet bouquetgarni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Lay Lay the the meat meat on on this this foundation. foundation. Add Add the the marinating marinating liquor, liquor, cover cover the the pan, cookaa little little away away from from direct direct heat heat until until the the liquor liquor pan, and and cook isis almost completely almost completely reduced. reduced. Add Add slightly slightly thickened thickened veal veal stock stock mixed mixed with witb 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *i cup) cup) tomato tomato sauce sauce totocover coverthe themeat. meaL Bring Coverthe thepan panand andput putininaaslow slowoven oven for for Bringtotothe theboil. boil.Cover about 4 hours. about 4 hours. Drain Drain the the meat, meat, untie, untie, and and glaze glaze itit in in the the oven, owngravy. gravy. oven,basting bastingwith withits itsown Arrange Arrangeon onaalarge largedish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe thegarnish gamishrecomrecommended, separategroups. groups.Boil Boildown downthe thebraising braising mended,disposed disposedininseparate liquor, skim off pour liquor, skim offthe thefat, fat, and and pourover overthe themeat. meat.

How to lard top rump rump (Nicolas) (Nrcolas)

Top rump rump d à la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. pricr PIÈCE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF .A. À r,c. LA souRBOURcrorsr GEOISE -- Steep Steep lardoons lardoons in brandy brandy and spices spices and insert in sert in in aa large of rump. rump. Season Season and and marinate marinate in in 55 dl. (scant (scant pint, large piece piece of 2{ 2i cups) cups) white white wine wine for for 66 hours. hours. Cook Cook in in aa braising braising pan pan with with vegetables vegetables and other other garnish as as indicated indicated for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULINAR y METHODS). METHODS). When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, drain drain the the meat meat and and put put itit in in aa casserole casserole with with 44 carrots carrots which which have have been been cut cut into into small small pieces and two-thirds two-thirds cooked cooked in in stock, stock, and and small small glazed pieces and glazed, onions. onions. Add Add calf's calf's feet, feet, braised braised with with the the meat, meat, boned boned and and cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Strain Strain the the braising braising liquor, liquor, skim skim off off fat, fat, and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Cook Cook with with aa lid !id on on for for llli hours. hours. Drain Drain the the meat meat and and serve serve with with the the liquor. liquor.

i

Top Top rump romp à ta la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. priicr PIÈCE ou DE sorur BOEUF A À ra LA BoURGUTcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE-- Insert Insertlarge large lardoons lardoons into into aa piece piece of ofrump rump and and marinate marinate in in brandy brandy for for 66 hours. hours. Braise Braise in in red red wine, wine, following the recipe recipe for for Braising Braising meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULINAR y following the METHODS). METHODS). r14 114

BEEF

BEEF

When Whenthree-quarters three-quarterscooked, cooked,drain drainthe themeat meatand andput putinto intoaa

wine and a few tablesPoons few fewminutes, minutes,and andadd addaalittle littledry dry wine and a few tablespoons

GARNISHES)and andits itsbraising braisingliquor, liquor,strained strainedand andwith withfat fat GARNISHES) skimmedoff. off.Simmer Simmerslowly. slowly. skimmed Top l'ancienne. PdcE PIÈCEDE DE BoE-uF BOEUF BRAISEE BRAISÉEAÀ Toprump rompbraised braised i àl'ancienne. r'lNCmNNs L'ANCIENNE -- Trim Trim top top rump, rump, and and tie tie with with string. string. Braise, Braise, and andwhen wbenthe themeat meatisisstill stillaalittle littlefirm, firm,drain, drain,put putunder underaapress' press, or orininaapan panwith withaaweight weighton ontop. top. Leave Leavetotocool. cool. Cut Cutout outthe thecentre centrepart, part, leaving leavingaa meat meat ring ringabout about l|Itcm. cm. (f(t inch) inch) thick. thick. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and and cover cover with with white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbsmixed mixedwith with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Press Presswell weil to to make make the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs adhere, adhere, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. butter, Cut Cut the the meat meat taken ta ken out out of of the the centre centre part part into into very very thin thin slices, put them them into into aa saut6 sauté pan, pan, added added thin th.in slices slices of oftongue tonguedà slices, put l'écarlate (salt (salt beef beef tongue) tongue) and and some sorne sliced sliced mushrooms' mushrooms, I'icarlate lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons conconand with with the the fat fat skimmed skimmed centrated braising braising liquor, liquor, strained strained and centrated off. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant lt cup) cup) Madeira Madeira and and leave leave off. Add Add +!- dl. do not not boil. boil. to stew stew slowly slowly but but do to Place Place these these slices slices in in the the meat meat ring, ring, and and serve serve with with the the remainder remainder of of the the sauce. sauce. Top la mode. mode. p$cn PIÈCE or DE BoEuF BOEUF A À Ll LA uoon MODE -- Cook Cook as as Top rump romp ià la described described in in the the recipe recipe for Top Top rump rump dà la la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, replacing replacing white wine wine by by red. red. white Top ONGLET DE DE Bonur BOEUFThis juicy cut cut can can be be prepared prepared Top skirt. skirt. oNGLET - Thisjuicy is also in in any any way way suitable suitable for for Beefsteak' Beefsteak. It Itis also used used for for carbonades, for extracting meat juice, juice, and for for beef beef saut6es' sautées. extracting meat or saut6. sauté. Grill or Grill Tournedos (medallions filJet of of beef) - Small Small slices slices of of Tournedos (medallions of fiIlet of butter fillet of of beef, beef, usually frid fried in butter, or in aa mixture mixture of butter of to that that of is similar similar to Their preparation in oiL oil. Their or in preparation is and and oil, oil, or should be They should (see MUTTON). MUTTON)' They of mullon mutton (see Noiselles be Noisettes of pink remain pink they remain that they make sure sure that to make very quickly, to cooked very inside. grilled). (see Filets mignons, mignons, grilled). grilled (see also be be grilled Tournedos can also Tournedos grilled or or placed on on grilled are sometimes sometimes placed they are Before garnishing, they mounds small mounds hearts, artichoke he cakes, artichoke cro0tons, potato cakes, fried croûtons, arts, small be found found will be tournedos will for tournedos and sauces sauces for etc. Garnishes Garnishes and rice, etc. of rice, of and SAUCE. SAUCE. GARNISHES and order under GARNISHES alphabetical order in alphabetical in and with salt salt and tutrnedos with Season the the tournedos Abrantis -- Season Tournedos Abrantès Tournedos grilled slices slices of of on grilled them on in oiL Place them oil. Place paprika and and sauté them in saut6 them paprika add aa oil, add in the the oil, onion in chopped onion Fry 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped aubergines. au bergines. Fry few tablespoons tablespoons pimentos and and aa few (q.v.) of peeled pimentos of peeled salpicon salpicon (q.v.) with Serve with tournedos' Serve pour over over the the tournedos. and pour sauce, and tomato tomato sauce, in butter. butter. cooked in and cooked cut small small and been cut potatoes which have been which have potatoes salt with salt tournedos with the tournedos Season the I'alg6rienne -- Season Tournedos ài l'algérienne Tournedos and fried croûtons cro0tons and on fried Place on in butter. butter. Place saut6 in paprika and and sauté and and paprika (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES)' algirienne (see *ith Garnish Garnish algérienne surround .u.to.tnd with been has been which has juices with wine to to which white wine with white pan juices Dilute the pan Dilute the pour over the over the and pour veal stock, stock, and added added tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal tournedos tournedos.. and butter and tournedos inin butter Saut6the thetournedos archiduc-- Sauté Tournedosarchiduc Tournedos croquettes withsmall small croquettes garnishingwith potato cakes, cakes,garnishing place them onpotato them on place place22on on andplace butterand of trufreininbutter Toss slivers sliversoftruffie brains. Toss ofcalves' calves'brains. of juices witb sherry, withsberry, pan juices Dilute tbe thepan garnishedtournedo. tournedo. Dilute each eachgarnished boil proportions, boil equal proportions, stock ininequal vealstock creamand and veal fieshCream add addfresb pourover the overthe andpour paprika, strain, strain, and withpaprika, little,season downaalittle, season with down tournedos. tournedos. wtth grilledtournedos tournedoswith Garnish grilled b6arnaise- -Garnish Tournedos ài lalabéarnaise Tournedos with (seePOT Servewith POTATOES). potatoes (see Chdtean potatoes smallChâteau ATOES). Serve small (seSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Biarnaise sauce Béarnaise and poachedand ofpoached slicesof thinslices Plaoethin bordelaise- -Place Tournedosàilalabordelaise Tournedos chopped withchopped Sprinklewith grilledtournedos. tournedos'Sprinkle marrowon ongrilled drained drainedmarrow (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Bordelaisesauce withBordelaise parsley andserve servewith and parsley and butter,and tournedosininbutter, thetournedos Saut6the chassetn- -Sauté Tournedos Tournedos chasseur pan, samepan, thesame mushroomsininthe slicedmushrooms placeonona adish. Saut6sliced dish.Sauté place fora a brownfor Season,brown shallots.Season, choppedshallots. spoonfulofofchopped adding iOainga aspoonful

chopped minuies. minutes. edd Add z2 teaspoons teaspoons chopped parsley, chervilpour and the sauce' Stir well and tarragon, tarragon,and andaalittle !ittlebutter buttertoto the sauce. Stir weil and pour over the ·tournedos. the tournedos in butter, and Tournedos Choron -- Saute Sauté the tournedos in butter, and Garnish with artichoke hearts place placethem tbemon onfried fried crootons. croûtons. Garnisb with artichoke bearts peas garden with filled and which whichhave havebeen beenstewed stewedininbutter butter and filled with garden peas butter' Pour on each tourneda dressed or -Choron or utp"tugrrs asparagus tips tips dressed inin butter. Pour on each the tournedo pan (see SAUCE)' Dilute aa rini ring of ofitrict thick Choron sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Dilute the pan veal stock, and pour a juiceJwith juices with white white wine wine and and thickened thickened veal stock, and pour a few few tablespoons tablespoonsover over ttle the tournedostournedos. the tournedos in butter' Tournedos la Clamart Clamart -- Saut6 Sauté the tournedos in butter. Tournedos Ià la and fill with a puree of in butter, hearts artichoke Simmer Simmer artichoke hearts in butter, and fil! with a purée of cooked been have which potatoes new peas and small fresh fresh peas and small new potatoes which have been cooked and thickened wine juices white with in in butier. butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with wbite wine and thickened tournedos. veal and pour pour over over the the tournedos. veal stock, stock, and tournedos in butter, place Tournedlos Tournedos H-etder Helder -- Saut€ Sauté the the tournedos in butter, place each one with a ring of them tbem on on fried fried crottons, croûtons, and and top top each one with a ring of a further decorated with (see Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), further decoratedGarnish with a (see FONDUE)' Tomato thick of teaspoon fondue teaspoon of thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). Garnish the pan juices with wtite potatoes fried with withpotatoes fried in in butter, butter, Dilute Dilute the panjuices with white tournedos' the pour over and veal stock, wine and thickened tbickened veal stock, and pour over the tournedos. wine and the tournedos in butter and Tounedos and Tournedos Henri Henri IV IV -- Saut6 Sauté the tournedos in butter arti each tournedo witha small Top crofitons. fried place on place on fried croûtons. Top eacn tournedo with a small artiBdarnaise sauce (see SAUCE), .ttot choke heart heart filled filled with with thick thick Béarnaise sauce (see SAUCE), Garnish with small potadecorated decorated with with a a sliver s!iver of of truffie. truffie. Garnisb with small (q'v potajuices Madeira and demi-glace ') toes. toes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) tournedos. pour the over and and pour over tbe tournedos.

daubière (q.v,) (q.v,) with with garnish garnish dà la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (see daubiire

veal stock)' Boil .!:t (q.v.) (or thickenid 6r*;-gtice thickened veal stock). 9oil for ?2 demi-glace (q.v.) (or parsley, chervil and

*iilH"?Kt6f;;'

Tournedos Marguery

Tournedos Marguery

the tournedos in butter, and Saut6 the Marguery -- Sauté Tournedos Marguery Tournedos tournedos in butter,(q'v') and with a salpicon filled with heart filled irtichoke heart an artichoke with an each with top each top a salpicon (q.v.) morels with dish the of centre the Fill crCme. FiU the centre of the disb with morels of truffles trufles àdlaIacrème. of cocks' combs and kidneys few cocks' place aa few and place butter, and fried inin butter, combs and kidneys fried the pan juices with port, add Dilute tournedos. the between between the tournedos. Dilute the pan juices with port, add a little, and pour over the tournedos' down boil fresh cream, fresh cream, boil down a little, and pour over the tournedos. Grill tbe the tournedos and arrange them Massena-- Grill TournedmMassena Tournedos tournedos and arrange them been simmered in butter' Add a have which artichokes on on articbokes which have been simmered in butter. Add a each tournedo. Cover with poached bone-marrow bone-marrow totoeach sliceof ofpoacbed slice tournedo. Cover with (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped I sauce Marroi Marrow sauce 1 (see SAUCE), and put a pinch of chopped marrow. ofmarrow. sliceof eachslice oneach parsley ^parsleyon Saut6 the tournedos in mushrooms with Tournedm Tournedos with musbrooms - - Sauté the tournedos in small mushrooms which add cooked, half When butter. butter. When half cooked, add small mushrooms which and complete cooking. in butter, fried lightly have been have been lightly fried in butter, and complete cooking. on a dish, and surround crownon tournedosininaacrown thetournedos Arrangethe Arrange a dish, and surround Dilutethe the pan juices with Madeira, mushrooms. Dilute withthe themushrooms. with pan juices with Madeira, (q.v.) or thickened veal stock, and withdemi-glace demi-gtace(q.v.) moistenwith moisten or thickened veal stock, and pour the tournedos. over pour over the tournedos. perigourdine - Saut6 the tournedos in la i Tounedos Tournedos à la perigourdine - Sauté the tournedos in and top each with slices of cro0tons,and placeononfried friedcroûtons, butter,place butter, top each with slices of cooking butter. Dilute in thecooking tossed been have which truffie truffie which have been tossed in the butter. Dilute juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour pan the the pan juices with Madeira and demi-glace (q.v.) and pour tournedos. overthe thetournedos. over 115 Ils

BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS

Beer : fermentation room (Ileineken) (Adwindig) Beer: fermentation room (Heineken) (Adwindig)

Beer:tank tankcellar (Heineken)(Adwindig) cellar(Heinekeo) (Adwindig) Beer:

Tornedos i la portugaise saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tornedos à la portugaise -- Sauté the tournedos in butter and oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Chhrcau oil, and garnish with small stuffed tomatoes and Château potatoes (see POTATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white potatoes (see POT ATOES). Dilute the pan juices with white wine and tomato-flavoured veal stocli and pour over the wine and tomato-fiavoured veal stock and pour over the tournedos. tournedos. Tournedos Rossini - Saut6 the tournedos in butter and Tournedos Rossini - Sauté the tournedos in butter and arrange on crofitons. Put a slicn of foie gras tossed in butter arrange on croûtons. Put a slice of foie gras tossed in butter on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same on each, and top with slices of truffies, heated in the same butter in which the tournedos were cooked. butter in which the tournedos were cooked. Dilute the pan juices with Madeira Madeira and and demi-glace (q.v.) demi-glace (q.v.) Dilute the pan juices with and pour over the tournedos. and pour over the tournedos. Tournedoa Saint-Germain - Saut€ the tournedos in butter, Tournedos Saint-Germain - Sauté the tournedos in butter, plaoe on fried cro0tons, and garnish with a thick puree of place on fried croûtons, and garnish with a thick purée of fresh peas. fresh peas. Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour Dilute the pan juices with thickened veal stock and pour over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazd, carrots^and over the tournedos. Garnish with young glazed carrots and small new potatoes gooked in butter, alteinating these vege_ small new potatoes cooked in butter, alternating these vegetables round the dish. (iee sauce (see tables round the dish. Serve Serve with with Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce SAUCE). SAUCE). Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts Tournedos can be cooked in any way suitable for small cuts of meat,. for Noisettes Noisettes of of meat, especially especially as as described described in in recipes recipes for of (see mutton can mutton (see MUTTON). MUTTON). Saut6ed Sautéed or or grilled, grilled tournedos tournedos can also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with also be dressed with butter or fresh cream, and served with French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They can French beans, kidney beans, peas, asparagus tips. They also be garnished with fresh vegetables cookedin butier or also be garnished with fresh vegetables cooked in butter or braised, such as cubumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, braised, such as cu"cumbers, chicory, lettuce, small marrows, aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as well as with potatoes aubergines, celeriac, celery, spinach; as weil as with potatoes cooked cooked in in various various ways; ways; and and with with pur6es purées of of freshbr fresh or dried dried vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals. vegetables, rice pilaf, risotto, pasta products and cereals. Beef _ Boiled beef. Beefiàlala vinaigrette. vinaigrette. BoEUF BOEUFAÀra LA viNlrcnurrr VINAIGRETTE - Boiled beef, diced diced or or cut cut in in thin thin slices, slices, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, onion onion and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with siiciO sliced Uoited boiled potatoes. potatoes.

The invention inventionof fermented beverages offermented beveragesfrom The grainisisattrifromgrain attributed toto the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who practised practised the buted themanufacture manufacture of of alcoholic liquor papyri liquor from from grain grain atat least5,000 yearsago. least 5,000 years alcoholic ago.Papyri of period the 1300B.e. s.c. refer refer to tothe of the period 1300 theregulation regulation of ofbeer beJrshops strops to to prevent people people over over indulging indulging inin beer. prevent beer. The The Egyptians Egyptians made made several kinds kinds of beer, and of beer, and they they also several also made madeaawine winefrom from barley barley which they they called called xithum. xithum. which The Pannonians, Pannonians, who who lived lived along The along the Danube, made the Danube, made aa potent drink drink out out of of barley barley and potent and millet. millet. AA similar similar beverage beverage existed in in Illyria. Illyria. Teutons Teutons made made aa kind existed kind of of wine wine from from ferfeimented barley barley and and wheat. wheat. 'The 'The people mented people of of the the west,' west,' said said 'get drunk Pliny, 'get drunk on grain.' on mouldy mouldy grain.' Phny, The beer beer made made by by all all these people was The these people was not not intended intended to be to be

BEEF-EATERS BEEF-EATERS -- Nickname Nickname given given to to the the yeoman Yeoman of of the the

Guardon onduty dutyatatthe theTower Towerof ofLondon. London. The Thename name may may have have _Guard

been beenderived derived from from the the French French beaufaitier beaufaitier-- one one who who attends attends the the buffet. buffet. ItIt isis more more likely likely that that these these yeomen yeomen were were called caUed beef-eaters beef-eatersininthe theseventeenth seventeenthcentury, century,fiom from their theirreceiving receivingaa large daily ration of beef. large daily ration of beef.

BEER. BEER. ndipe BIÈRE-- A A generic generic term terrn used used for for all ail fermented fermented malt malt beverages, beverages,and andincludes includesporter, porter,ale aleand and stout. stout. The The beverage beverage isis obtained obtained through through the the action action of ofyeast yeast on on an an infusion infusion 6f of malted malted cereals. cereals. ItIt isis a-a refreshing refreshing and and slightly slightly stimulating stimulating drink drinkwhich whichhas hassome sornefood foodvalue. value.

Hop field (J. Boyer) Boyer) Hopfield,(J.

kept. kept. Hops Hops were were later later introduced introduced in in the the brewing brewing of of beer beer in in theNetherlands, Netherlands, and and in in the the fifteenth fifteenth century century in in England. England. the In all ail regions regions and and at at all ail latitudes, latitudes, beer beer is is brewed brewed from from In 116 116

BEER

BEER

assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig) Beer: Beer: bottle botlle assembly line (Heineken) (Adwindig)

Beer: Beer: filtering fiJtering and and refrigeration refrigeration (Gruber, (Gruber, Melun) Melun) (Iarousse) (Larousse)

lasts from two (59' or 68'F.). Fermentation or 68°F.). 15" or or 20'C. to to 15° 20°C. (59° Fermentation lasts from two the liquid, of the the top top of gathers at at the yeast gathers the yeast days, and and the four days, to four to liquid, yeast'. 'top fermentation fermentation yeast'. term 'top hence the term hence the most universaJJy universally be the the most used to to he which used Top fermentation, fermentation, which Top and Belgium and Britain, Belgium in Britain, employed in still employed popuiar method, method, isis stiU popular since has developed developed since fermentation has Bottom fermentation France. Bottom noithem France. northern possible the makes possible It makes refrigeration. It of refrigeration. introduction of the introduction the the beer. quality of consistent a more production of production of a more consistent quality of beer. yeastless beer Belgium, isis aa yeastless in Belgium, mostly in manufactured, mostly Also manufactured, Also beer andfaro. lambic and called lambic called faro. filtered, is beer the beer is filtered, cellars the maturing cellars period in in the the maturing After aa period After easily so easily liquid, so This Iiquid, bottles. This or bottles. in casks casks or conditioned in then conditioned then premises The premises handling. The careful handling. most careful the most requires the spoiled, requires spoiled, regularly and regularly clean and perfectly clean must he be perfectly and receptacles receptacles must and generally bottles isis generaJJy conditioned inin boUles beer conditioned The beer sterilised. The sterilised. 65'C. of 60° 60' toto 65°C. temperature of to aa temperature heated to pasteurised - heated pasteurised (140'to 149'F.). (140° to 149°F.). acid carbonic acid pressure with with carbonic under pressure charged under beer isis charged Bottled beer Bottled preserved, be preserved, flavour toto he and flavour freshness and all its its freshness which enables enables ail which opened. immediately itit isisopened. consumedimmediately provided that that itit isisconsumed provided classed in be classed used toto he beers used (bottom) fermentation fermentation beers Low (bottom) Low in brown strong brown beer;munich, blendbeer; pilsen,a light blend three types: types: pilsen, a light munich, aastrong three decreasrapidly beer amber-coloured beer rapidly decreasvienne,aasweet, sweet, amber-coloured beer: vienne, beer; popularity. ing ininpopularity. ing brews: English brews: arethe theEnglish beers are fermentation the top topfermen Amongthe Among tation beers There beers.There brownbeers. porterand stout, brown andstout, paleale, blendbeer; ale,i pale a blend beer; porter Berlin' andBerlin, Louvain and ofLouvain whitebeers beers of thewhite beers: the alsospecial specialbeers: lrealso are belongtoto beersbelong various beers Belgium. Thevarious ofBelgium.The andfaro thelambic lambicand faro of the pilsen-type is the distributed widely most The types. these these types. The most widely distributed is the pilsen-type ofof arre as many thereare thatthere saythat however, totosay paleale. true,however, ale.ItItisistrue, pale as many arebreweries. breweries' thereare beerasasthere ofbeer varietiesof varieties every notthe thesame sameininevery beerisisnot unitofofbeer legaldensimetric densimetricunit Thelegal The tendency Thereisisa atendency 'Rigie'degree. degree.There the'Régie' Franceititisisthe country.lnInFrance country. conextractconis,the theextract thatis,' extract- -that originalextract theoriginal backtotothe referback totorefer never densityisisnever Thisdensity fermentation. This beforefermentation. wortbefore bythe thewort tainedby tained contentofof alcoholiccontent thealcoholic forthe degrees,for alcoholicdegrees, expressedininalcoholic expressed the diminutionofofthe onthe thediminution attenuation - -on onitsitsattenuation dependson beerdepends beer contentofof alcoholcontent Thealcohol fermentation. The courseofoffermentation. thecourse extractininthe extract accordingtoto fluctuates extractfluctua originalextract theoriginal madefrom fromthe beersmade beers tes according attenuation. degreeofofattenuation. thedegree the the accordingtotothe variesaccording beersvaries compositionofofbeers Theihemical The chemical composition alcohol volumeofofaJcohol Thevolume wort.The originalwort. theoriginal densityofofthe anddensity typeand type percent, sometimes cent,sometimes percent centtoto6 6per from3 3per rangesfrom contains tains ranges itiicon particular beersininparticular beer.English Englishbeers thebeer. uponthe greater,depending dependingupon greater, amount. thisamount. canexceed exceedthis can

various cereals: cereals: wheat, oats, rice rice (the (the Japanese sake), saké), millet, millet, various corn), sorghum, etc; etc; and and even ev en from from starchy starchy maize (U.S. corn), maize (U.S. are not roots (srveet (sweet potatoes, potatoes, cassava), cassa va), when when cereals cereals are not roots available. produced Industrial brewing.In brewing. ln Europe, beer is generally produced In&tstial wort, sweetened juice, fermentation of aa sweetened juice, the wort, alcoholic fermentation by the alcoholic micro-organism, by aa micro-organism, fermented by flavoured with hops and fermented hops and flivoured with flour malt flour product of the maceration of malt yeast. The wort is the product The wort temperacontrolled temperaat suitably controlled or sprouted barley in water at purpose The purpose fermentable' The tures. Cereal starch is is not directly fermentable. is to to breed in the the malting process is of germinating germinating the the barley in of the the transformation of induce the transformation enzymes in grain; these these induce in the grain; process' mashing process. the mashing during the maltose during starch or maltose sugar or starch into malt sugar barley the barley picked over, over, the and picked After cleaned and been cleaned having been After having malt to the the malt dispatched to grains and dispatched tuns, and in tuns, grains are soak in set to to soak are set kilns, tbus thus malt kilns, drid inin malt houses. then dried barley isis then The sprouted sprouted barley [ouser. The according regulated according arresting This operation operation isis regulated gerrnination. This arresting germination. manufacture for the the manufacture pale malt malt for to malt desired: desired: pale quality of of malt the quality to the of manufacture of the manufacture malt for for the of flavoured malt pale ale; ale; coloured, coloured, flavoured of pale rootthe rootto say, say, the that isis to brown degermed; that then degermed; malt isis then ale. The The malt brown ale protein high protein have aa high These have lets removed. These are removed. combs are malt combs lets or or malt feed' cattle feed. ideal cattle them ideal and makes them which makes content which nitrogen content and nitrogen put toto malt isis put crushed malt During process the the crushed mashing process the mashing During ~he of temperature of toaatemperature macerate heated to mixture heated and the the mixture water and in water macerate in which isis operation, which 75°C. this operation, (167'F.). ln of this course of In the thecourse 75"C. (16rF.). by transformed by done starch isistransformed thestarch infusion, the or infusion, by decoction decoction or done by saccharification' process of of saccharification. enzymes the process this isis the into sugar: sugar: this enzymes into called residue,ca the residue, The lied from the filtration from byfiltration separated by wort isisseparated The wort wortisis filtered wort The filtered the food. The cattle food. ascattle usedas also used this isii also draff; this thedraff; 500g.g' 150to to500 proportion of of150 cooked theproportion are added added ininthe and hops hopsare cooked and gallons)' gallons,28 per 28 gallons). per22 22gallons, 18oz. oz.per perhectolitre oz. to18 hectolitre (5(5OZ.to The tuns'The The fermentation tuns. thensent senttoto fermentation wort isisthen cooled wort Thecooled andthe the processand addition theprocess yeast completes completes the of culture cultureyeast additionof (32"or or 2'C'(32° or2°C. beer cooledtoto0°0oor cellars cooled maturing cellars placed ininmaturing beerisisplaced time lengthofoftime 36°F.), variablelength foraavariable remainsfor where it remains 36'F.), where depending quality. andquality. itstype typeand uponits dependingupon fermentation There lowfermentation beer:low ofbeer: principal types typesof aretwo twoprincipal Thereare typeofof thetype beers differininthe Theydiffer beers.They fermentation beers. andhigh highfermentation beersand the andininthe leavening fermentationand speedofoffermentation thespeed uied,ininthe leavening used, temperature method thetemperature former,the theformer, wort.InInthe thewort. mashingthe methodofofmashing l0'C. of above10°C. artificiallyabove maintainedartificially fermentationisismaintained offermentation the (50°F.). mostofofthe daysmost twelvedays periodofofsix sixtototwelve (50"F.).After Aftera aperiod bottom leavening thebottom depositatatthe formsa adeposit andforms precipitated and leaveningisisprecipitated ferofofthe 'lowbottom bottomferterm'low theterm comesthe whichcornes fromwhich tun,from thetun, rises mentation temperaturerises thetemperature case,the secondcase, thesecond yeast'.lnInthe mentation yeast'.

-

-

-

it

t17 117

BEESTINGS

BEESTINGS

The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not trans_ The extract is formed by dextrines, the maltose not transformed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. formed into alcohol, and by soluble nitrogenous substances. It is present in the proportion of from 4 io 9 per cent. This Itextract is present in the proportion of from 4 to 9 per cent. This is what gives a sensation of fullness palate which thipalate extract is what gives a sensation of fuUness totothe which the tasters call the mash. rtis also due to this extiact that the mash. It is also due to this extract that the the tasters cali the carbonic acid forms the substantial froth or head which carbonic forms the substantial froth or head which indicates acid careful drawing and skilful brewing. drawing and skilful brewing. indicates careful Beer contains amyloides, protides, alcohol, minerals, Beer con tains amyloïdes, protides, alcohol, minerais, vitamins, etc. It is an excellent beverage easily assimilated by assimilated by vitamins, etc. It is an excellent beverage easily the body. The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulat_ the The alcohol and the hops' extract have a stimulatingbody. effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes. ing effect. It can be used in a considerable number of dishes. A Belgian Belgian culinary school strongly recommends the beer Adishes culinary school strongly recommends the beer conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. dishes conceived by the late chef Raoul Morleghem. In- France, a special governmental body makes a regular _ln France, a special governmental body makes a regular check on beers, and severely punishes anyinfraction, olth. check on beers, and severely punishes any infractions of the manufacturing regulations. manufacturing regulations. Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, Besides the basic elements used in its manufacture (barley, hops, yeast), beer is rich in mineral salts and vitamins (Br, and vitamins (B 1> hops, yeast), beer is rich in minerai salts Bz,Brr, PP). Its consumption must be controlled, orrather raihei B 2 , B 12 , PP). Its consumption must be controlled, or drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and drastically reduced, in the case of overweight, gout, and diabetes, as well as in certain types of dyspepsla. It is recom_ diabetes, as in certain types of dyspepsia. It is recommended as inweil diets for increasing weight, ind for nursing and for nursing mended in diets for increasing weight, mothers, so long as it does not have too strong an alcoholii mothers, sa long as it does not have too strong an alcoholic content. content. Ale, and porter are consumed consumod in in much much greater greater Ale, .stout stout and porter are quantities in Europe than in U.S.A. Some ale is manufaitured quantities in Europe than in U .S.A. Sorne ale is manufactured in the United States, but most American breweries produce a in the United States, but most American breweries produce a

lager beer which is

lighter bodied bodied th thrin the European b.r.op"a, lager beer which is lighter an the varieties. There is a large volume of importing and expoiting varieties. There is a large volume of importing and exporting of beers between Europe and the United States. of beers between Europe and the United States. Barley beer. cpnvons - Decoction of barley, fermented - Decoction of barley, fermented Barley beer. CERVOISE with- yeast perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which with yeast -- perhaps derived from fermenting grapes, which produces a kind of barley wine rather than Jbeer. This was produces a kind of barley wine rather than a beer. This was a drink of the ancient Gauls. a drink of the ancient Gauls. Ginger beer. sriRn DE GINGEMBnT - Boil 2t ke. (5 lb.) loaf Ginger beer. BIÈRE DE GINGEMBRE - Boil 2i kg. (5 lb.) loaf sugar, 75 g. (3 oz, * cup) ground ginger and l litres (3 gal_ sugar, 75 g. (3 oz., i cup) ground ginger and 14 litres (3 gallon9, 3f gallons) water for I hour. When cold, add the jriice Ions, 3i gallons) water for 1 hour. When cold, add the juice and thinly peeled rind of 5 lemons. Add cup brewer's yeast and thinly peeled rind of 5 Iemons. Add -!-+ cup brewer's yeast smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered smeared on a piece of toast. Keep in a wooden tub, covered with a thick cloth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a cloth, with a thick c1oth, for 2 or 3 days. Strain through a c1oth, bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down bottle, and cork securely, tying the corks down. The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a The beer will be ready for drinking in 4 or 5 days. If a stronger brew is desired, add more ginger. st ronger brew is desired, add more ginger. Home-made beer I. nrinn or u6N.l,cn - Boil 2 litres (3* Home-made beer I. BIÈRE DE MÉNAGE - Boil 2 litres (3t pints, 4| pints) ordinary barley n 22 litres (4f gallons, pints, 4t pints) ordinary barley in 22 litres (4i gallons, 66 gallons) gallons) water water for for 22 hours. hours. Add Add 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.\ oz.) hops hops and and g. (t lO 10 g. (1 ^oz-) oz.) chicory, chicory, and and leave leave to to infuse. infuse. Strain, Strain, and and pour pour into (6]-gallon, a 30-litre into a 30-litre (6t-gallon, 8-gallon) 8-gallon) tun. tun. Add Add l* li kg. kg. (2i (2, tb.) lb.) sugar which has been dissolved in l0 litres (9 quarti, I I sugar which has been dissolved in 10 litres (9 quarts, II quarts) water. Mix well. Leave the tun uncovered until the quarts) water. Mix weil. Leave the tun uncovered until the following following day. day. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast which which has has been been dissolved dissolved inin aa little hot little hot water. water. Stir Stir with with aa stick. stick. Leave Leave the the tun tan open open for for 66 days. days. Add Add more more liquid Iiquid every every morning morning and and evening evening to to replace that lost through fermentation. On the the seventh seventh iav. day, replace that lost through fermentation. On bung the barrel, and bung the barrel, and on on the the eighth eighth day, day, bottle bottle the the beer. beer. Boii Boil the corksininwater waterfor for 55minutes, minutes, and and cork cork the the bottles boules tightly. tightly. thecorks Home-made Home-madebeer beerIL II. srtRE BIÈREor DEMfNlce MÉNAGE-- Boil Boil lm 100E. g. G (4 o;.) oz.) hulled (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2* cups) cups) sugar sugarand and aa hindful handful oi of hulled barley, barley, 500 500g.g. (lS l-top_r i" 4 litres (3] quarts, 4] quarts) water; keep boiling hops in 4 litres (3t quarts, 4t quarts) water; keep boiling for oz.) yeast hour. Remove Removefrom from heat, heat,aaa add tO 10g.g.(*(~oz.) yeastand and td 10 forf1hour. litres I quarts) litres(9(9quarts, quarts,I Il quarts)water. water. Leave bottleand and cork. cork. (A (Alittle little Leavetotoferment fermentfor for44days, days,then thenbottle bu_rnt,sugar burnt sugarmay maybe beadded added totothis this beer beertotogive giveititcolour.) colour.) Mah adding Maltbeer. beer.sriRE BIÈREos DEMALr MALT-- This Thisbeer beerisisobtainod obtainedby byadding concentrated concentratedmalt maltextract extracttotothe thewort wortand andletting Iettingititfermeni ferment slightly. slightly.ItIthas hasmuch muchgreater greaternutritive nutritivepropertieJ propertiesthan than ordi_ ordinary andisisused usedasasaatonic, tonic,ororfor fornuising nursingmothers. mothers. narybeer beerand

Beersoup (Germancookery). sorp(German cookery).SOUPE soupEÀ ALAreBIÈRE sriRE- _Dilute Dilute Beer 150g.g.(5(5oz.) (q.v.)made oz.)light lightroux roux(q.v.) madeofofbutter butterand andflour flourwith with 150 (2fpints, litres(2i pints,3i3{pints) pints)light lightbeer. beer.Mix Mixweil. well.Season Seasonwith with ItlIlitres saltand andpepper pepperand andadd add2 2teaspoons teaspoonsfine finesugar sugarand anda asmall salt small pinchpowdered powderedcinnamon. cinnamon.Bring Bringtotothe theboil, boil,and andsimmer pinch simmerfor for minutes. 2525minutes. B9{oreserving, serving,thicken thickenwith with2 2dLdt.(1(+pint, pint,scant scantcup) Before cup) doublecream. cream.Pour Pourover overthin thinslices slicesofoftoast toastinto intoa asoup double soup tureenwhile whileititisisstill stillboiling. boiling. tureen

BEESTINGS. AMOUILLE .c,MouLr,E- - Name Namecommonly commonlygiven giventotothe BEESTINGS. the firstmilk milkofofa acow cowafter afterparturition. parturition. first BEESWAX. CIRE crRE- - Product Producttransformed transformedfrom fromthe BEESWAX. thehoney honev absorbedby bytheworking the workingbee, bee,which whichitituses usestotoconstruct constructthe absorbed the cellsininhoneycombs honeycombsand andininthe theinterior interiorofofthe thehive. hive. cells Thename namecires ciresvégétales vigitalesisisgiven giventotosubstances substancesextracted The extracted fromcertain certainvegetables, vegetables,ininparticular particularfrom fromcertain certainpalms. palms. from BEET- -See SeeBEETROOT. BEETROOT. BEET

BEETROOT(U (U.S. Beet).BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - - There Thereare aremany BEETROOT .S. Beet). many varieties of plant,sorne ofthis thisplant, somecultivated cultivatedsolely solelvfor varieties fordistillery distillerv purposes, sorne someas asanimal animal foodstuff foodstuff and andsorne, purposes, some,asasininthe thecase casl ofgarden beet,as asvegetable. vegetable. of garden beet, Among bestvarieties the best varietiesof gardenbeetroot of garden Among the beetrootare: are: red red stump-rooted,dark dark red redMassy, Massy, large large red, stum'p-rooted, red,early earlyred globe, redglobe, dark red red turnip-rooted turnip-rooted Egyptian, Egyptian, red globesummer dark beet, redglobe summeibeet, globeearly dark red red globe early beet. beet. dark

iir:

F

Five varieties variclies of beelmol of beetrool

The The Romans Romans used used beetroot beetroot leaves as a vegetable. vegetable. In Russian cookery cookery both both the the roots and the leaves Ieaves of of beets beets In Russian are are used, used, notably notably for for various soups soups (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Beetroot Beetraot soup soup dà la la Russe). Russe). Beetroot Beetroot in in hors-d'euyre hors-d'œuvre is refreshing refreshing and increases increases the the appetite appetite but but is is not not recommended recommended for for sufferers sufferers of of dyspepsia dyspepsia and and colitis, colitis, since since itit is is inclined inclined to to be be indigestible indigestible and it, its cellulose "rra cellulose fibres fibres can can cause cause flatulence. flatulence. For For information information on on sugar sugar beet, beet, see see SUGAR. SUGAR. Beetroot Beetroot leaves Ieaves are are perfectly perfectly edible, edible, and and are are used used in in manv many recipes. recipes. In In France France the the roots, roots, boiled boiled or or baked, baked, are are used used as as garnish garnish for for salads, salads, hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre and and various various game game entries. entrées. Wash Washand and scrub scrubthe thebeets beetswith withaa brush. brush. Dry Dry tlem them and and bake bake in in the. the oyen. They They are are ready ready when when they they bLgin begin to to .give, 'give' aa -oven. little, pressed with with aa finger. finger. Keep Keep in in aa cool cool place. place. little, ififpressed Beet Beet i à l'anglaise. l'anglaise. BETTERAvEs BETTERAVES A À I'aNGLArsp L'ANGLAISE _ - Choose Choose tender tender beets, beets, peel, peel, cut cut into into slices slices and and boil boil in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain,dry dryand and serve servewith with fresh fresh butter. butter. l18 118

sf,NEotcrN BÉNÉDICTIN Beetroot Beetrooti illalab6chamel. béchamel.srlrBRA.vES SETTERA VESAALA LAntcruurr BÉCHAMEL- - Bake Ba ke

22beets beelSinin the the oven, oyen, peel, peel, and and cut eut into into fairly fairly thick lhick slices. slices.

Simmer sautépan panwith wÎth22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3 tabletableSimmergently ininaasaut6 spoons) pinehofofsalt. salt. spoons)butter and andaapinch To Ta serye, serve, cover caverwith wîth not nOI too too thick thick Bichamel Béchamelsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), whichbutter butlerhas hasbeen beenadded. added. SAUCE),to(0which Beetroot cream.BETTERAvEs BETTERA VESAÀr.l LAcntue CRÊME-- Stew Stewslices slicesof of Beetrootinincream. beet beetininbutter. butter. Dilute Dilutethe thepan panjuices juieeswith with44dl. dl.(f(tpint, scant scant

22 cups) ClipS) pre-boiled pre-boîled cream. cream. Cook Cook down down by by half,

season, season, remove 50 g. g. Q (2 oz., oz., Il cup) cup) butter, butter, and and remove from from heat, heat, blend blend inin 50 pour pourover overthe the beets. beets. Beetroot garllish. BETTERAvES BITTERA VES PouR POlSR GARNITURES GARNITVRES -Beetmot for for garnish. Choose Choosewell-shaped, well-shaped, uniformly unifonnlysized sized beetroot. beetrooL Bake Dake them theminin the the oven, oyen, allow allow to to become becorne quite quite cold, cold, and and peel. peel. Cut Cut into into slices or dice, d ice. or or shred sh red into in 10 aajulienne. julienne. slices or Prepared Prepa re
Season it with very large floury potatoes' this thisdish.) dish.)Cover Coyer it with very potaloes. top' a lid onSeason fat or butter' Place with sprinkle und it.r. a lid on top, these and sprinkJe with fat or flour-and-water paste' Bake in cinders a wlttr it r"uii"g sealing il with a ftour-and-water paste. Bake in cinders glowing charcoal for 4 to 5 hours' Serve in the mixeiwith mixed with charcoal for 4 to 5 hours. Serve in the cooked' in which it has been recbptacle reœptacle in has beell cooked. See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY' BELGIUM RELGIUM- - Sec INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. dessert pear An excellent winter BELLE-ALLIANCE BELLE-ALLlANCE -- An excellent winter dessert pear January). The skin is yellowish on one side and ip"".*U". (Oecember and January). The skin is yellowish on one side other. and and red redon on the the other. Variety of large winter pear' Its skin BELLE-ANGEVINE BELLE-ANGEVINE-- Variety oflarge winter pear. Ifs skin becomes bright yellow, flushed with red ir!t.* is green atatfirst, tirsl,then then becomes brîght yellow, l1ushoo wilh red brown. and and pitted with wi th brown. in February and March, is better to This pear, in season season in February and March, is beUer to pear, in eat, and is used mostly for.filling decorative to atlhan look look at than 10 cat, and is used mostly for filling decorative fruit. baskets of fruit. baskelS of Variety of peach, with bright red BELLE-CHEVREUSE BELLE-CHEVREUSE --of pcach, with red be eaten when it is just ripe; when it is too It should skin. skin. It should be eaten when il just ripe; when is too becomes'sleePY'. flesh its ripe, ripe, its ftesh becomes ·sleepy'. Another name for a variety of pear BELLE-DE-BERRY BELLE-DE-BERRY -- Another name for a variety of pear poire de curi' called called poire de curé. Pear with mediocre flesh, usually BELLE-ET-BONNE BELLE-ET-BONNE -- Pear with mediocre flesh, usually in syrup or red wine. cooked cooked in syrup or red wine.

Peach which ripens in September and BELLE-GARDE BELLE-GARDE -- Peach which ripens in September and Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for October. October. Its flesh is on the firm side, and it is mostly used for in and compotes pastry-making. compotes and in Pastry-making. of very large fig, which grows in variety A BELLONE large fig, which grows in BELLOI'\'E - A variety of These figs are used for preserves' Provence. Provence. These figs are used preserves. in Brittany. The oysters of the beds there BELON BELON -- River River in Brinany. The oysters of the beds there same name. bear the bear the same name. sA'TTHAZAR - Colloquial usage for copious BELSHAZZAR. BALTHAZAR BELSHAZZAR. -- Colloquial usage for copious the famous feasts mentioned in the to the an allusion allusion to meals; famous feasts mentîoned in the meals; an Bible. Bible. Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Bjack BELUGA (Huso Huso) - The white sturgeon of the Black Sea and other waters' It is the largest of the Caspian Sea, Sea, Sea and other wa lers. ft is the largest of the producing the best caviafe' sturgeon family, sturgeon family, producing the bcsl caviare. a variety of ortolan found in the for Local name BENARI -- Local BÉNARI name for a variety ofinortolan found in the They are fattened the same way as the district. They Languedoc district are fattened in the same way as lhe ortolans. For methods of preparation see district ortolans. Landes district For methods of preparation see ORTOLAN. ORTOLAN. (Cake) - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., BENEDICTIN (Cake) BÉNÉDICTIN - Cream in a bowl 250 g. (9 oz., 2! cups) ground almonds, 250 g- (9 oz., generous cup) fine 2!.igut, j *ttot" eggs almonds, 250 g.yolks. (9 OZ.,When the mixture cup) flneis and 12 egg the mixture is sugar, eggs and 12 egg yolks. add 2 more eggs, one by one. Mix well, and add I r-toih, smooth, add 2 more eggs, one by one. 100 Mix g. well, and add 1 (4 oz, tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; and :"p) tablespoon Benedictine liqueur; andpotato 100 g.flour (4 OZ., 1I cup) have which sieved flour, and 100 g. (4 oz',3 sieved Oour, and 100 (4 oz., ",-tp) potato flour which have been first sieved together. been flfst sieved baking tins, sprinkle with flour, and 611 lvvs-lhirds Butterbakîng Butter sprinkle with flour, and fil] two-thirds full with the caki mixtuie. Bake in an oven at 180'C. (350'F., full with the cake mixture. Bake in an oven at 180°c' (350°F., Gas Mark 4). Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are Gas Mark 4): Remove cakes from the tins as soon as they are and cool on a flat wire rack. Sprinkle each cake with baked baked and cool on a flat wire rack. each cake with Benedictine, and when this is absorbed, cover the tops and coyer' the IOps and Benedictine, and when this is sides of the cakes with thick apricot jatn. Decorate the sides of the cakes with thick apricot jarn. Decorale the sides sides withchopped chopped roasted almonds. with roasted almonds. Ice the top of the cakes with pale yellow fondanticingwhich lce the top of the cakes with pale yellow been flavoured with Benedictine, and when it is sel make has has been flavoured with Benedictine, and when il is on it with mauve fondant icing, using a patternofof squareson a apattern it wÎlh mauve fondant a square with half a each the centre of forcing-bag. Decotate the a forcing-bag. centre of each square pistachio nut. pistachio nuL The same mixture can be used for small iced petits fours' smaU but iced is petits fours.in The same mixture can be use<:! forabove, steeped made as described Thecake cakeisismade The as described above, but icing' is steeped in Decorate before and cut into uniform squares liqueurand liqueur eut into uniform squares before icing. Dccorate petit foar with a mauve fondant spiral' eich each petit four with a mauve fondant spiral.

the for the France for parts of of France in some some parts used in Name use
FRITTERS. SCC FRITTERS. BEIGNETS -- See BEIGNETS (18 oz., oz.' 33] 500 g. (18 Pound 500 (petits fours) fours) 1I -- Pound Beignets Beignet .. (petits t cups) sugar and 55 (18 OZ., cups) sugar oz., 2] cups) 500 g.g. (18 with almonds wi blancfied almonds blanched th 500 whites. egg whites. egg or orange or vanilla' orange with vanilla, flavour with and flavour whole eggs, eggs, and Add 22 whole Add with Colour with pineapple. COIOUf crystallised pineapple. peel, or shredded cryslallised or shredded lemon peel, lemon Fold inin J16 agent. Fold colouring agent. or green vegetable colouring carmini or 6 carmine and buttered and into bUHered and spoon spoon into egg whites, and stiffiy whisked egg stiffly candied piecesof of candied with pieces Decorate with moulds. DecoraU! petits fours moulds. flouied petilsfours f10ured and bake bake ininaa icing sugar sugarand with iCÎng pineapple. Sprinkle Sprinkle with or pîneapple_ orange or orange oven. slowoyen. slow cups) oz, Illf cups) 250g.g-(9(9oz., Pound together 250 Beigneb IItr --- Pound generous cup) cup)sugar. sugar' oz.,generous and 250 g_g.(9(9oz., almonds and blanched almonds egg' whole egg. onewhole blend ininone andblend mixtureand themixture egg white white totothe Addone oneegg Add with vanilla. vanilla. Flavour with Flavour into a very stifffroth and fold them into whites into eggwhites Whisk88cgg Whisk with sprinkle with moulds,sprinkJe into small biscuit moulds, Spooninto mixture.Spoon themixture. the oven. slowoyen. andbake bakeininaaslow sugar,and icingsugar, icing

historyofof thehistory goesfar backininthe farback thatgoes dish,har BEILCI{E - - AAdish BElLCHE caisine. Germancuisine. German surMakesurbeef.Make roundofofbeef fatfrom froma around thefat andremove remove[he Trimand Trim notbebe (theseculS mustoot cutsmust overitit(these cross-wise ailallover incisionscross-wise faceincisions face pepperand and withsalt, salt,pepper incisionswith theincisions insidethe Seasoninside deep).Season toodeep). too spices. spices. (In pan'(ln cast-ironpan. largeterrine terrineOforcast-iron beefinina alarge thebeef Placethe Place for employedfor usedtotohebeemployed receptableused silverrcceptable Germany,a aspecial specialsilver Germany, 119 119

BENEDICTINE BENEDICTINE

(Erit") -- Famous BERNARD (Émile) Famous nineteenth nineteenth century century chef chef BERNARD employed by by Wilhelm Wilhekn l,I, King King of of Prussia. Prussia. In In collaboration employed collaboration with Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois he he wrote wrote one one of of the the best best cookery cookery books with books period: Cuisine of the the period: Cuisine classique. classique. of

BENEDICTINE. BÉNÉDICTINE s6NforcrrNE -- Renowned Renowned French French liqueur liqueur BENEDICTINE. invented by by the Benedictine monks the Benedictine monks at at the Abbey of F6camp, the Abbey of Fécamp, invented produced there. and still still produced there. and BENfDICTII\B (À (A LA) LA) -- Garnish poached fish Garnish suitable suitable for for poached fish BÉNÉDICTINE or eggs, eggs, composed composed of (q.v.) of of aa brandade brandade (q.v.) of cod cod and and truffies. truffies. or Salt cod cod ài la h bénédictine. benedictine. MORUE uonun Ài, LA L,c, BÉNÉDICTINE sfNEorcrrNE -- The The Salt pounded as cod isis pounded as for for brandade, brandade, but potatoes but mixed mixed with with potatoes cod prepared as (See SALT pur6e. (See as for for purée. SALT COD.) COD.) prepared

(A LA) BERRICHONNE (À LA) -- Garnish Garnistr used for large used for large cuts cuts of BERRICHONNE of meat and and especially especially for for mutton. mutton. ItIt isis composed composed of meat of braised braised cabbage, sm small onions, chestnuts chestnuts and and rashers rashers of cabbage, ail onions, of streaky streaky bacon. bacon. BERRY -- The The richest producing region richest sheep sheep producing region of But of France. France. But BERRY lamb and and mutton mutton are are not not the gastronomic assets the only only gastronomic assets of of lamb Berry. The province has The province has always always had had aa reputation reputation for for bonne Berry. bonne produces many chCre and and, produces many other other delicacies, delicacies, solid solid and liquid. and liquid. chère The cuisine cuisine of of the the Berry Berry region region has has an an agreeable agreeable simplicity. simplicity. The poultry of There is is the good ground the fine fine poultry ground and Bourges, good of Bourges, and winged winged There game, aa great great variety variety of freshwater fish, of freshwater including Vierzon fish, including Vierzon game, lamprey, and and excellent excellent fruit and and vegetables. vegetables. lamprey,

Joseph Berchoux (l 765-l 839) Berchoux (1765-1839) Joseph

(Joseph) -- French BERCHOLIX (Joseph) French poet, poet, born born at at SaintBERCHOUX (Loire) in Symphorien-de-Lay (Loire) in 1765, 1765, who who made made aa name name for for Symphorien-de-Lay gastronomical literature himself in in gastronomical literature with poem entitled with aa poem entitled la Ia himself Gastronomie, published published in in 1800. 1800. Berchoux was not Gastronomie, Berchoux was not a gastronome, but poem was his poem but his was valued valued for for its its zest zest and and lightligbtgastronome, hearted, witty witty tone, tone, and and was was included included in in aa volume of volume of hearted, gastronomic writers quality of writers of of the the quality of Grimod Grimod de de la Reynière Reynibre gastronomic and Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, published Charpentier in in 1829 l82g and published by by Charpentier under the les Classiques Classiques de de la la table. table. under the title title les

Argenton-sur-Crelx Argenton-sur-Creuse (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office) Bergamot

Cufinavy Culinary specialities specialities - These include include soups SOUps with truches or tartouffes (potatoes), (potatoes), with reuves and salt pork; sanguine, a kind of pancake pancake made made with with chicken's chicken's blood; blood; various various kind of matelotes; citrouillat (pumpkin (pumpkin pie); pie); sauciaux, a a peasant pancake; pancake; truffiat, home-made potato scone; scone; grignaudcs,flat grignaudes, fiat cakes gs; poulet cakes made made of of pork pork greaves greaves or or cracklin cracklings; poulet en en barbouille, barbouille, chicken chicken coated coated with with its its own own blood; matafan, pancake; pancake; potato potato gouere gouère or or gouiron. gouéron. Wines Wines - Wine Wine connoisseurs connoisseurs have have a high high regard regard for for the the wines of this this region. region. And, And, indeed, indeed, the the very very dry dry white white wines wines wines of of of Berry Berry have have every right right to to be be acclaimed for for their their delicacy delicacy and and bouquet. bouquet. They They all ail come come from from the the Sauvignon grape. grape. Then Then there there are are the the Sancerre Sancerre wines wines from from the the vineyards vineyards surrounding surrounding the the town town of of that that name name (immortalised (immortalised by by Balzac) Balzac) and and those those in in the the neighbouring neighbouring communes, communes, particuparticularly Champtin, Saint-Satur, Saint-Satur, M6n6trol, Ménétrol, larly Bu6, Bué, Verdigny, Verdigny, Champtin, Reigny, Reigny, Sury-en-Vaux. Sury-en-Vaux. The The hamlet hamlet of of Chavignol, Chavignol, near near Sancerre, Sancerre, produces produces famous famous wine wine which which the tbe poet poet Hugues Hugues l,apaire, Lapaire, a a native native of of Berry, Berry, placed placed far far above above the the rest. rest. Chavignol Chavigno! was was also also highly highly esteemed esteemed by of Nohant Nohant -- George George by Balzac Balzac and and by by the the 'bonne 'bonne dame' dame' of Sand. Sand.

of

BERGAMOT BERGAMOT ORANGE. ORANGE. BERGAMoTE BERGAMOn: - Fruit Fruit of the the bergamot bergamot tree, tree, aa kind kind of of orange orange with with avery a very acid acid but but pleasant pleasant taste. The highly highly scented scented oil oil extracted from from its its rind rind is is used used taste. The in in perfumery, perfumery, pharmaceutics pharmaceutics and and confectionery. confectionery. Candied Candied bergamot is used bergamot peel peel is used in in phtisserie. pâtisserie. The The bergamots bergamots of of Nancy Nancy are are the the most most sought sought after after in in confectionery. confectionery . BERGAMOT BERGAMOT PEAR. PEAR. BERcAMoTE BERGAMOTE -- Name Name applied applied to to several severa! varieties of pear. pear. The The bergamote bergamote d'automne d'automne is is the the best. best. varieties of BERLINGOTf BERLINGOT -- A A hard, hard, sweet sweet candy candy variously variously flavoured, fiavoured, but of France France have have but usually usually with with peppermint. peppermint. Several Several regions regions of their of berlingots; berlingots; those those of of Carpentras Carpentras their own own special special variety variety of are are renowned. renowned. t20 120

BEVERAGE BEVERAGE

GAHE

Goat's Milk

Bgul, VierZOn Watnuts S I Melons Lamprey C H ER \ Crayfish. Coq ou vin. SheeP' [::'giti:.T*"6jj' j"j lFrffi // Confectioherv, Beer l

MARCHE of Berry Gastronomic map or Gastrollomie Berry

proportion of in tbe the of water re-establistr normal normal proportion maintain or or re-establish maintain watcr in organism. 70 per cent water, approximately 70 Our bodies bodies con contain Our Iain approximately (5{ pints, 6} pints). litres (Si of 33 litres eliminating daily an average of daily an eliminating considerable degree, to aa C01nsi,cler'able When the water water content content is When is lowered to have to to replace We therefore therefore have results. We the sensation sensation of of tbirst thirst results. the which contain a foods whieh partly by water eliminated, solid foods by solîd the watcr eliminated, partly the of water, partly by liquids. considerable proportion ofwater, considerable have been been "'VG'''''''invented. Apart from milk Numerous beverages have Numerous are (q.v.) which liquid food, beverages are is considered aa liquîd which is (q.v.) classified in 6ve five ...categories: classitied "t'p(1,n.n."" waters (see WATER). Pure water water and mineral mineral waters 1.l. Pure (see INFUSIONS, INFUSIONS' 2. Aromatie Aromatic and and stimulating stimulating infusions (see 2. TE.!t) UEtf, TEA) dHOCOTAiN, MATÉ, HERBAL TEAS, TEAS, COFFEE, COFFEE, CHOCOLATE. HERBAL Bavarian these: Bavarian preparations based on these: based on as well well as as various various preparations as (dealt with alphabetical in alphabetical with in etc. (dealt bishop, etc. creams, iecd iced coffee, coffee, bishop, creams, order). by juices, freshly modified by not modined and not extracted and freshly extracted 3. Fruit juices, state in their their pure state either in drunk either fermentation, whlch which are are drunk fermentation, (lemonade, juice), or (grape juice), sugar (Jelm01naoe, water and with water and sugar or mixed mixed with (grape orangeade, etc.). etc.). orangeade, wine; which tSis winc; principal of of whieh 4. Fermented the principal Fermented beverages, beverages, the 4. liqueurs fruit liqueurs various fruit perry, hydromel and various hydromel and then beer, beer, eider, cider, perry, then large anotler large (dealt with There isis another order). There with in in alphabetical alphabetical order). (dealt as to as referred to group of beverages, refeITcd compound beverages. fermented or or compound of fcnnented group section. in this this section. found in will he be found which wjll economical or or medieinaL medicinal, whieh economieaJ and mixtures, and or mixtures, Fermented and and distilled distilled beverages or S.5. Fermented (dealt with with inin al· alpreparations based alcoholic drinks (dcalt based on on alcoholic phabetical order). normal The normal of beverages beverages - The temperature of Quantity and temperarure nature, the the to their their nature, according to varies according beverages varies intake of beverages

fish and and with with seafood, wines are seafood, fish are perfect with These wines with the are best best drunk the region. They are cheese of of the celebrated celebrated goat chccse slightly chilled. produced in in ros6 is is also also produœd and fruit fruity dry and An y rosé An excellent excellent dry good viotage grape. ln vintage In aa good Pinot grape. from the the black black Pinot Sancerre Sancerre from year aa very source. good red comes.from the same same source. red wine wine cornes' very good year from the which gives near Sancerre, Sancerre, which is Menetou-Salon, near Then there is Then there already mentioned. Still in the to those already white white wines wines similar similar to some white wines of almost département dipartement of of Cher, Cher, at Quincy, sorne produced. quality are equally fine fine quality are produced. wine isis beginning beginning to Term indicaling indicating that that aa wine BESAIGRE -- Tcrm SESAIGRE tum turn sour. sour. and for salted salted and and Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 for in the SESJ BESI -- Name Name in the Jura Jura and generic term for aa variety variety of of term for is also also aa generie drîed cow's meat. meat. ItIt is dried cow's pear. pear. rousette d'Anjou. pear, also d'Aniou. called rouselte also calle
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wild to descrihe describe aa wild in France France to Term used used in StTE BETE ROUSSE ROUSSE -- Term year old. boar months to to one one year old. boar six six months pear. There varieties, There are are many many varicties, BEURRÉ dessert pear. BEURRE -- JuÎey Juicy dessert nouveanr, gns and d'hiver nouveau, and beurré beurrC d'hiver among which are arc beurré beurrC gris among whieh beurri and February; February; beurré in January January and whieh reach maturity maturity in which reach ripe Gifard, ripe beurr| Giffard, Novembet; beurré and November; Cappiannonf, Cappiannonf, Oetober October and beurrC Die!. Diel. and beu.rré at of July, at the the end end of July, and

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to mouth to the mouth by the Liquid taken taken by BEVERAGE. BoIssoN -- Liquid BBVERAGE. BOISSON

t2l 121

BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETICS BEVERAGES requirements of of the the organism, organism, outside outside temperature temperature and and requirements state of of health. health. Excessive Excessive intake intake of of liquids liquids diminishes diminishes state appetite and and impedes impedes digestion. digestion. In In sorne some cases cases itit isis advisable advisable appetite increase the to increase intake of the intake liquids in of Iiquids in order order to to improve improve eliminaeliminato tion and and cleanse cleanse the the organism. organism. In In others, others, itit isis advisable advisable to to tion reduce the intake of the intake liquids. of liquids. reduce Should beverages beverages be be taken taken with with meals meals or or inin between between Should meals? Man Man alone alone drinks drinks wbile while eating; eating; other other animais animals meals? separate their their solid solid feeding feeding from from absorption absorption ofliqu.ids. of liquids. Halfa Half a separate (scant pin litre (scant pint,2t cups) water water drunk drunk on on an an empty empty stomach stomach litre t, 2* cups) leaves itit in in less less than than half half an an hour. hour. The The water water would would remain remain in in leaves the stomach stomach much much longer longer if if accompanied accompanied by by other other food. food. A A the meal eaten eaten without without drinking drinking isis digested quicker and digested quicker and better. better. It It meal advisable, therefore, therefore, in people suffering in diets diets for for people suffering from from isis advisable, dyspepsia and and enteritis enteritis to to separate separate the the intake intake qf o.f solids solids and and dyspepsia liquids. They They should should drink drink an an hour hour or or so so before before the the meal, meal, so so liquids. as to to ensure ensure that that the the stomach stomach is is empty empty in in time time for for sol solid food. as id food. The result result will will not not be be the the same if the same if the liquid taken after after the the liquid isis taken The meal; the the stomach stomach will will be be full, full. and and the conditions will be the condi be the the meal; tions will same as as when drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy same wb en drinking during a meal. With perfectly healthy people, however, provided the however, provided the amount amount of of drink drink taken taken is is not not people, so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. so excessive as to impede digestion, the above does not apply. Too much much meat, meat, highly highly spiced spiced dishes dishes and and the the excessive excessive Too use of of salt, salq considerably considerably increases increases the the sensation sensation of of thirst. thirst. use Diet consisting consisting mainly mainly of of vegetables, vegetables, containing containing little little salt, salt, Diet provoke thirst does not not provoke thirst so much. so much. does Moderately wann warm beverages beverages dilate dilate the the blood blood vessels vessels of of Moderately the stomach, stomach, are are better better absorbed, absorbed, and quench thirst and quench thirst the efficiently. If If too too cold, cold, they they cause cause the the contraction contraction of of the the efficiently. abdominal capillary capillary system, system, and and may lead to to disorders, disorders, at at abdominal may lead times of of aa serious nature: colic, serious nature: precordial anxiety, colic, precordial anxiety, and and even even times (loss of syncopes (Joss ofconsciousness ofblood consciousness from from fall fall of blood pressure). pressure). syncopes These disorders disorders are are more more likely one drinks drinks aa These likely to to occur occur if if one quantity of quickly. To of cold cold liquid To prevent such occurrences, occurrences, Iiquid quickly. prevent such quantity sportsmen are are advised advised to hot beverages after violent sportsmen to drink drink hot beverages after violent exercise. Such accidents occur less exercise. Such accidents occur less frequently frequently with with iced drinks, because can only only be swallowed in sips. drinks, because these these can be swallowed in small small sips. The palate's of beverages The palate's reaction reaction to to various various temperatures temperatures of oeverages varies varies according according to to their their nature. nature. Below Below 6" 6° to to 8.C. 8°e. (43. (43° to 47"F.) of being being ice-cold; ice-cold; it it is is 47°F.) water water gives gives the the impression impression of pleasantly pleasantly cool cool at at 12"C. 12°e. (54"F.), (54°F.), it it becomes becomes warm wann and unpleasant 25"C.-(77"F.) unpleasant at at l6'C. 16°e. (61'F.), (61°F.), and and at at 25°C: (77°F.) it it is is too hot hot for for most most people. people. Aerated Aerated water water seems seems colder colder than tban ordinary ordinary water water at at 6"C. 6°e. (43'F.) (43°F.) owing owing to to the the release release of of carbon carbon dioxide, and remains dioxide, and remains cold cold up up to to lO'C. 10 e. (50"F.), (50°F.), becoming becoming pleasantly pleasantly cool cool up up to to l7'C. 17°e. (62"F.). (62°F.). The The temperature temperature of of milk milk at at the the farm farm immediately immediately after after milking milking varies varies between between 33" 33° and and 34'C. 34°e. (91" (91° and and 93"F.). 93°F.). When heated (131" 55° to to 56'C. 56°e. (l31° to to 133.F.) 133°F.) itit seems seems very When heated to to 55" hot hot and and causes causes perspiration. perspiration. Wines. Wines. The The best best temperature temperature for for an an average average white wbite wine wine is is about about l0'C. 10 e. (50'F.). (50°F.). Some Sorne wines, wines, such such as as Sauternes, Sauternes, can can be be (frappis). chilled chilled (frappés). Sparkling Sparkling wines wines should should only only be be cooled cooled by by ice, ice, without without adding adding salt salt (often (often an an expedient expedient in in aa restaurant restaurant for for clients clients who who are are in in aa hurry). hurry). These These wines wines lose lose aa great great deal deal of of their their quality at a temperature (43"F.). below 6"C. 6°e. (43°F.). Red Red wines, wines, quality at a temperature below especially especially the tbe great great wines wines of ofBordeaux, Bordeaux, are are served served chambris chambrésbrought brought slowly slowly to to room room temperature temperature (16o (16° to to 18"C., 18°e., 61" 61° to to 64"F.). drunk at at aa cooler cooler temperature, temperature, 64°F.). Burgundy Burgundy wines wines are are drunk and and light light white white wines wines are are served served cold. cold.

Generally speaking, speaking, aa man man absorbs absorbsinin twenty-four twenty-four hours hours Generally as many many cubic cubic cm. cm. of water as of water as he he ingests ingests calories. calories. The The need need as for water water isis related related to to the the chemical chemical composition composition of of the the diet. diet. for protein-rich diet requires aa considerable diet requires considerable hydrous hydrous intake. intake. AA protein-rich

FERMENTED BEVERAGES. BEVERAGES. BOISSONS nolssoNs FERMENTÉES rprurmurErs -- The The FERMENTED manufacture of of fennented fermented drinks drinks demands demands aa series of operaoperaseries of manufacture tions, often often complicated. complicated. Spontaneous Spontaneous fennentation fermentation of tions, of grapes, apples, apples, oranges, pineapples may oranges, pineapples may have produced aa have produced grapes, pleasant drink drink by by chance; chance; but but chance chance does not account account for does not for pleasant the alcoholic alcoholic fennentation fermentation of of cows', cows', mares' mares' and and she-camels' she-camels' the milk, which which does does not not take place of take place its own of its own accord. accord. Still Still milk, more curious, curious, historically historically speaking, speaking, isis the the transfonnation transformation more of cereal cereal crops crops into into fermented fermented liquor. liquor. Small Small tribes tribes in in the the far far of past, having having neither neither fruit fruit nor nor milk milk nor nor cereals cereals at at their their past, disposal, managed produce an managed to to produce an intoxicating intoxicating beverage beverage disposai, from the the tubers tubers of of cassava cassava or potatoes. The or sweet sweet potatoes. The use use of of from fermented liquors liquors appears appears to peculiar to to be be aa need need peculiar mankind. to mankind. fennented

0

Cabaretier selling drinks

,",n"31,1il!5f lf lll,1i,o,l8,'r-,r, in the seventeenth century (Guérard)

Barley Barley cordial. cordial. BorssoN BOISSON D'oRcE D'ORGE - Put Put 5CI 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) ordinary ordinary barley barley and and 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) couch grass grass into into 20 20 litres litres (4] (41 gallons, gallons, 5] 5t gallons) gallons) water. water. Boil. Boil. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz) oz.) liquorice Iiquorice cut cut into into small small pieces. pieces. Leave Leave to to get get cold, cold, strain, strain, and and bottle. bottle. Barley EAU D'oRGE D'ORGE -- Pour Pour boiling boiling water water on on aa handhandBarley water. water. EAU ful fui of of barley barley and and bring bring to to the the boil boil again. again. Pour Pour off off the the water water and 15 to to 20 20 and replace replace with with boiling boiling water, water, this this time time boiling boiling for for 15 minutes. minutes. IfIf pearl pearl or or hulled hulled barley barley is is used, used, I1 tablespoon tablespoon per per litre litre (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, there there isis no no need need to to boil boil itit in Cook the the barley barley until until the the grains grains split. split. in two two waters. waters. Cook Cider Cider type type tlrink. drink. BorssoN BOISSON FAgoN FAÇON crDRE CIDRE -- Blend Blend llIl litres litres (2| (21 gallons, gallons, 33 gallons) gallons) water, water, I1 litre litre (If, (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) double double !eer, ~eer, l0 10 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) citric ci tric acid acid and and aa large large glass glass brandy. Decant into into bottles bottles and and tie tie down down the the corks. corks. brandy. Stir Stirwell. weil. Decant This Thisdrink drink will will be be ready ready for for use usein in 55to to 66days' days' time. time.

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BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. sorssoN BOISSON rN EN orertrreuE DIÉTÉTlQUEBeverages Beverages are are of of supreme supreme importance importance in in dietetics. dietetics. Water, Water, man's natural beverage, is man's natural beverage, is essential essential to to him. him. ItIt isis possible possible to to go go up up to to forty fort y days, days, and and even even more, more, without witbout eating eating ifif one one drinks of water; water; being being deprived deprived of of itit leads leads drinks large large quantities quantities of to to death. death. r22 122

BEVERAGES BEVERAGES IN IN DIETETICS DIETETlCS and and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and stir stir well. well. Leave Leave to ta stand stand for for 24 24 hours, hours, then then filter. tilter. Honey Honcy water. water. slu EAU I\,IIEIIEE MlELLÉE -- Dissolve Dis,<;olve some sorne pure pure honey honey in in hot hot water, water, add add a little liule nrm mm or or brandy brandy and and aa dash dash of of vinegar. vinegar. ItIi isii> aa refreshing refreshing drink drink but but does does not not keep. Hop Hop drink. drink. BoIssoN BorSSON AU AU HouBLoN HOUBLON - Put into into a a 20-litre 20-litre ($-gallon,5fgallon) cups) sugar, crock I1 ke. (2i (4}-gaUon, lb., sugar, 22 Qtlb., handfuls handfuls hop flowers, 8 8 to to l0 orange orange leaves Icaves and a a glass vinegar. vinegar. Fill with wiÙJ water. water. Leave Leave to to macerate rnacerate for for 2 2 days,

Clairet -- Boil Boil 6* 6t kg. kg. (14+ (l4-!- lb.) lb.) carrots and 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) liquorice liquorice roots fOOts in in l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, quarls, ll 11 quarts) water. waler. Strain, pressing the 10 extract as much much the ingredients ingredients so so as to liquid liquid as as possible. Add g. Q (9 oz.) tartaric acid, 250 g. (9 oz,2{ cups) Add 250 e. ground ginger, 2 2 kg. (41b., lb., 9 cups) brown sugar and 2 litres litres (3* (3! pints, 4| pints) brandy to the liquid. Pour into into a barrel of 100 litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) capacity. Fill with water, and leave for 8 days. Bottle and capacity. cork, tying tying down down the corks. Economical drink I. I. BotssoN BOISSON fcoNoutQun ECONOMIQUE -- To To make EconomicaJ drink 60 60 litres litres (13 gallons, 16| 161- gallons), put put 4 4 litres (3| (3i quarts, 4| 4:1 quarts) quarts) red or white white wine into in to a tun, add add 56 litres (12{ (l2k gallons, gallons, 15| 1st gallons) gallons) water, water, 2 kg. kg. e4 (41 lb., lb., 9 cups) cups) sugar sugar (having ioto the tun), a a small (having dissolved it before putting it into lemon Leave for lemon cut eut into pieces and and tied tied in a muslin bag. Leave storing 5 to ta 6 days, stirring once once a a day, decant into bottles, storing them them upright. Economical ECOllomiCal drink drink II. II. BoIssoN BmSSON EcoNonnQuE ÉCONOMIQUE - Put Put into into a receptacle 20 litres (4j gallons, 5] gallons) water, I1 litre (lf receptacle 20litres cups) sugar and pints, generous generous quart) wine, I kg.Q*1b.,4+ lb., I1 lemon lemon cut eut into into slices. Leave Leave to 10 macerate macerate for for 4 days, Bottle and tie down the corks. This drink stirring once a day. Bottle will be ready for use in 4 to 6 days' time. lime. Take a barrel of Elderblossom BOISSON DE DE SIJREAU SUREAU -- Take of Elderblossom cordial. BoIssoN gallons, l6f gallons) capacity, enlarge about 60 litres (13 (! 3 gallons,l6t enlarge the bung hole and with water. Put the following and fill fil! the barrel barrel wîth cups) refined ingredients into aa muslin muslin bag: 2 ke. (4f,1b., lb., 9 cups) sugar or, ifthat if that is not available, ordinary granulated sugar, sllgar g. (2 oz.) oz.'1hops, g. (4 oz.) dried elderblossom, 50 g. 100 g. hops, 1I lemon juice squeezed 2l and 2t cut squeezed into the water, and the thejuice water, and eut into pieces and (scant I pint, dl. (seant pin t, generous cup) vinegar. Leave to infuse for 5 rest on on the days, stirring with aa stick day. Leave stick once aa day. Leave to rest sixth day and bottle on on the seventh (decanting into champagre bottles, possible). Tie down the corks. This beverage pagne boUles, if ifpossible). ready for use in 5 days' time. Keep the bottles will be ready boUles upright in the cellar. .Elder and lime cordial. BOISSON TILLEUL -- Mix BoIssoN DE SUREAU sTJREAU ET TILLEUL .EIder (6 litres (6 handful each and lime-tree leaves with 7 litres each of eider elder and aa handful (9 OZ., g. (9 cup) oz., generous eup) Add 250 250 g. water. Add quarts, 7| quarts) water. sugar, 2lemons and and 1 glass vinegar. sugar,2 day. Strain, to maceratc macerate for 33 days, stirring once aa day. Leave to for ready for will be be ready and lie tie down down corks. corks. This beverage wiU bottle and days' time. in 5 days' use in and stomachic. Spiced wine, tonie tonic and stomachic. HypocRAs -- Spieed Hippocras. HYPOCRAS red wine wine hip· hiphippocras, rcd cider hippocras, There are are beer beer hippocras, hippocras, eider There pocras, ele. pocras, etc. any stone fruit, flavoured wîth with any stone fruit, The beverage beverage can can be be flavoured The etc. wormwood, violets, etc. vanilla, wormwood, oranges, vanilla, r'^e.NcftIQLJE -- Leave HYPocRAs À A L'ANGELlQUE hippocras. HYPOCRAS Angelica hippocras. AngeLîca (* oz.) pinch of nutmeg to to and aa pinch of ground nutmeg fresh angelica angelica and oz.) fresh 88 g. (t (red or (lf pints, generous generous quart) cold wine wine (red or infuse in in 1I litre litre (1:1taste. and aa liule brandy to to laste. little brandy Add sugar for 22 days. days. Add sugar and white) for white) Filter. Pilter. g. 25 g. Leave 25 HypocRAs AU lu GENŒVRE csNIivRE -- Leave Juniper hippocras. HYPOCRAS Juniper juniper (lfi pints, pints, (l oz.) infuse in in 1I litre litre (1 to infuse berries to oz.) crushed jun (\ iper berries g. (2 generous quart) quart) cold alcohol, wine, mixed mixed with with 50 50 g. oz.) alcohol, cold wine. generous Q oz.) (3 OZ., oz., 66 75 g.g. (3 little vanilla vanilla and and 75 for 24 24 hours. hours. Add Add aa liule for filter. tablespoons) fine fine sugar, and filter. sugar, and re FRAMBOISE rnnunolsE -- Strain Strain HYPocRAs À A LA w .. " ... t,,,,..."V hippocras. HYPOCRAS Raspberry gathered raspberries raspberries over over aa freshly gathered cups) freshly 500 g. (18 oz., 3f cups) (If, pints, quart) red red wine, generous quart) wine, pour in pints, geoerous in 1I litre (11 bowl, pour bowl, (2 oz.) and filter. filter. g. (2 alcohol, and add 50 50 g. oz.) wine wine alcohol, with sugar, sweeten with sugar, add sweeten Infuse 22 Aux ÉPlCES fPIcEs -- Infuse HypocRAs AUX Hippocras with with spices. spices. HYPOCRAS Hippocras (* oz., g. 0: 15 g. tablespoons) nutmeg, aa cinnamon, 15 o2.,2 teaspoons cinnamon, teaspl:>ollS 2 lablespoons) (all ground ground inta powder) in in 50 g.g. into powder) pinch of mace and and 33 c10ves cloves (ail of mace (l| piots, pints, (2 oz.) litre (Ii for 22 days. Add 1I litre Leave for days. Add alcohol. Leave oz.) alcohol. quart) white amber essence essence generous quart) red wine, wine, 33 drops drops amber white or or red generous

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41 +

stirring a cloth, c1oth, decant deeant into into stirrîng frequently. frequently. Strain Strain through through a

bottles, boules, and cork, tying tying down down the corks. Hydromel Hydromel (Codex (Codex recipe) recipe) - Dilute Dilute 100'9. 1OOg. G (4 oz., oz.,! cup) pure pure ] cup) white (1 t pints, generous generous quart) quart) warm warm water, water, white honey honey in 11 litre (If, and strain. strain. Vinous part honey and three three Vinous hydromel hydromel is made from one part parts water. wa ter. Hygienic and drink. BoIssoN BOISSON nvcdNtQus HYGIÉN1QUE sr ET and refreshirE drink. (11 gallons, Mix 50 litres n.arnlicrrlssANrE 1itres (II gallons, 14 14 gallons) litre water, litre (lj} pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) brandy, brandy, (scant pint,2lcups) coffee (2t lb., 4i cups) cups) brown coffee and and I1 kg. (2*1b.,4| sugar together. Stir well. weIL Kefr. rfrn - This beverage, made from fermented cows' cows' The Caucasus. The milk, ii> used in in countries bordering bordefing on on the the Caucasus. rnilk, is dried, preserved, fermented kefir kefu is dried, preserved, and and transported transportcd in in the the form of grains called form of ca lied pousse touiours. They They multiply multlply inindefinitely by fermentation, so so that a a minute minute quantity quantity is is enough to produce any amount of of kefir. ketir. (scant quart, generous quart, generous I litre g. (ll Allow 40 a0 g. (11 oz.) kefir to t.o 1 litre (seant dilute with stone jug, quart) Put the the kefir kefir into into aa stone jug, dilute with quart) water. water. Put for 24 24 hours. Stir and leave stir, and slightly, stir, water, sweeten slightly, hours. Stir waler, sweeten leave for in 66 or or Ready for and bottle. days, and bOille. Ready for use use in again, leave leave for 44 days, after bottling. 7 days' time arter Lemonade -- See See LEMONADE. Lemonade lemonade Ordinary lemonade GAZEUSE -- Ordinary lemonade. LIMONADE Lnvrone,DE GAZEUSE Fizzy lemollade. apparatus. means ofaerating of aerating apparatus. dioxide by means aerated with carbon dioxide aeraled juice. LfMONADE DE AtI SUC suc DE LMoNADE AU Lemonade with pomegranate juice. Lemonade pomegranates cRENADE -- Extract the juice from 6 ripe red GRENADE red nA,n-."rr,.o,,., or by rubbing rubbing through pressing in aa fruit squeezer or either by pressing juice of and the the and 2 oranges, oranges, and of 22 lemons and Add the juice sieve. Add aa sieve. water as much much water Add twice twice as zest of of 1I lemon lemon and and 1I orange. orange. Add zest juice, sugar fine sieve sieve through aa fine to taste, taste, strain strain through as Ihere there is is juice, sugar to as lemonade. and chili chill the lemonade. and DE RÉGLISSE A L'ORANGEt'on.a.Ncn EAU DE nfcr,tssn À Liquorice and orange water. EAU roots, liquorice roots, well-washed liquorice oz.) well-washed Put 80 to 100 g. (3+ to to 44 oz.) to 100 (* oz.) orange orange zest. pan. Add zest. l0 g.g. G in aa pan. Add 10 cut into small pieces, in eut quarts) water, for 4} quarts) water, boil boil for litres (3{ quarts, 41 Cover wiÙJ with 4 litres Coyer cloth. minutes, and and strain through aa cIo 5 minutes, th. proceed Using oatmeal, proceed EAU DE DE GRUAU cRUAU -- Using water. EAU Oatmeal water. water. recipe for for Barley Barley water. in the the recipe as described in as ou oRANGETTE ou BoIssoN ORANGETTE Orangette Fr6nette cordial. cordial. BOlSSON or Frénette Orange rte or 10 g. (2 of JO oz.) ash ash tree tree leaves, peel of rnfNsrrE - Take Take 50 50 g. FRÉNEITE Q oz.) (2 oz.) g. (2 oz.) (G lb., oranges, 3 kg. (6-i lb., 13 13 cups) cups) granulated sugar, 50 g. oranges, (l oz.) yeast, bumt sugar. g. (1 burnt sugar. citric acid, 25 g. oz.) brewer's yeast, ci tric acid, peel for for 25 25 or or 30 30 with the orange peel leaves with Boil the the orange the ash ash tree leaves Boil (3| pints, pints) water. pints, 4t water. Strain Strain through through aa 4] pints) minutes in in 22litres minutes litres (31 cloth. clotho ((* lb., granulated sugar in the the sugar in 13 cups) cups) granulated lb., 13 Dissolve 33 kg. kg. (61Dissolve into aa barrel g. (2 acid. Put Put into barrel citric acid. Add 50 oz.) citric 50 g. above liquid. Add above Q oz.) (11 gallons, 14 gallons) eapacity. capacity. 14 gallons) of about about 50 50litres of litres (II mix with tablewith 22 tablewater, m1x cold waler, Dilute 25 25 g. (1 Dilute 0 oz.) yeast inin cold (3 tablespoons) buml and add add to to the the barrel. barrel. burnt sugar and spoons (3 spoons and cork. cork. days, bottle bottle and ferment for 88 days, to ferment Fill with with waler, water, leave to Fill pea-pods. BOISSON DE COSSES cossEs DE DE BoIssoN DE out of of pea-pods. Beverage made made out Beverage pots-vERTs - Put green peas peas into and add add into aa stockpot pods of stockpot and of green POIS-VERTS - Put pods get cold. cold. leave to to get and leave plenty of for 33 hours, hours, and Boil for of water. water. Boil plenty (9 quarts, quarts) liquid. quarts, li liquid. ll quarts) l0litres to 10 Add aa handful handful of sage to litres (9 Add Draw off and boUle. bottle. off and barrel. Draw ferment in aa barrel. kave to to rerment Leave Tonic DE RHUBARBE RHUBARBE -- Tonie EAU DORÉE DoRfiE DE Golden rbubarb rhubarb cordial. cordial. EAU Golden

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t23 123

BEZIERS BÉZIERS and apéritif ap6ritif obtained obtained by by macerating piece of macerating aa piece of rhubarb rhubarb in in aa and jug ofwater. of water. Rice warer. water. EAU EAU DE DE RIZ nz -- Proceed Proceed as as descnbed described in in the the recipe recipe for Barley water. water. Three floweis cordial. cordial. BOISSON BorssoN DES DEs TROIS rRors FLEURS FLBuRs -- Pu Putt 50 50 g. Three (2oz.) oz.) hop hop flowers, flowers, 50 50 g. (2 oz.) violet violet flowers flowers and and 35 35 g. (2 oz.) eider elder blossom blossom into into 20litres (4| gallons, 5| gallons) boiting oz.) water. Boil Boil for for 55 mihutes minutes and and strain through a fine cloth. water. Pour ioto into aa barrel barrel with with 4| kg. (10 lb., 20 cups) brown Pour (scant piot. sugar. Add Add ~+ litre litre (seant pint, 2l cups) vinegar and 12 g. sugar. (* oz.) yeast, broken oz.) brewer's brewer's yeast, pieces. Mix broken up up into pieces. Mix weil. well. Fil! (t Fill the barrel barrel with $"ith 80 gallons, 22 S0litres 22 gallons) water, stir the litres (17| gallons, vigorously, bung bung the the barrel, and and leave leave to to ferment. vigorously, Wipflavorned water. water. EAU EAU VINEUSE vrNEUsE Beverage for Wine-D8I1/oured for convalescents, made made by by addiog adding aa small quantity of small quantiry convalescents, of Ho,rdl~aUIJ( Bordeaux or Burgundy Burgundy wine wine to to water water or water. A or soda soda water. A liule little sugar or sugar and and lemon essence essenc€ is is sometimes ss6stimes added. added. lemon Blackcurant wine. wine. VIN vnr DE DE CASSIS cAssxs -- Press Press ripe ripe blackcurrants blackcurrants Blackcurrant in aa tub, tub, and and leave leave for for 24 24 hours. hours. in Rub through aa sieve sieve or or aa coarse coarse cloth cloth and and separate Rub separate the the juice. Cover Cover the remaining remaining marc marc with with water, water, equalling juîce. equalling in in volume the amount amount of ofjuice extracted, and and leave leave ta volume juice extracted, to macerate for 12 12 hours. hours. Press Press through through the the sieve sieve aga again. Mix the for in. Mix the two two juices, and g. Q oz., and add add 50 50 g. oz., t* cup) per litre (scant cup) sugar sugar per litre (seant juices, quart, generous quart) quart) liquid. quart, Pour the liquid into aa barrel the liq barrel or or sorne some other other receptac1e receptacle Pour uid into and leave leave to ferment. When to fennent. When fermentation fermentation begins to and to be established, bung the barrel, barrel, leaving an an opening the sile established, size of of vent-peg. ACter After aa few few days, remove remove bung, bung to allow carbon aa vent-peg. dioxide to escape. Repeat Repeat this operation from from time time ta dioxide to time until there is no longer any risk of too great an expansion of untll gas, then bung the barrel. Draw off offat gas, at the end of six months. Cherry wine. VJ1l,1 vnr DE cERrsEr described in the OF. CERISES - Proceed as deseribed recipe for BJackcurrant Blackcarrant wine. recipe Iig wine ffguette. vrN Frcr.iEs (rrcunrrn) Fig wme or Of figuerte. VIN DE FIGUES ("""'-llt' ..... ...,"\ - Put I kg. juniper berries into a small barrel. (2* lb.) and l0 (2-!lb.) dried figs and 10 juniper Add quarts) water Add l0 10 litres litres (9 (9 quarts, IIl quarts) water and and leave leave to macerate macerate for 6 to 8 days. Strain the tbe liquid, bottle, boule, and leave for for 4 4 or 5 days before using. using. crNcEnBRE - Put 9 Ginger wine. wine. vN VIN DE DE! G1NGEMBRE 9 kg. kg. (20 (20 lb., lb .. 40 cups) sugar into eups) into 40 40 litres litres (8f (8t gallons, gallons, 1l Il gallons) gallons) boiling boiJing water. When the sugar sugar dissolves, dissolves, add 300 300 g. (ll (Il oz.,2f oz., 2i cups) cups) pounded gtnger ginger roots. mots. Boil for a quarter of an an hour, and remove from from heat. heat. When the liquid is nearly nearly cold, add 250 g. (9 oz.) brewer's yeast. yeast. Leave Leave to ferment in a barrel. Draw Oraw offafter off after fennentafermentation, and when the wine is is quite clear, c1ear, decant into bottles. boUles. Juniper wine. vnl VJ1I,1 or DE cnxGvns GENIÈVRE -- Mix 5 kg. (II lb.) honey (or (or brown brown sugar) sugar) with with 22 kg. kg. ((~l lb.) lb.) brewer's brewer's yeast yeast and and 50 kg. kg. (l(110 l0 lb.) lb.) crushed crushed juniper berries. bernes. Add Add 100 litres litres (22 gallons, 28 gallons) hot water water and and a little liulc crushed coriander. Pour Pour this mixture into inta aa cask eask and and stir stir vigorously vigorously for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Cover with boards, boards, sealing sealing the the cask eask hermetically hermetically ifif possible. possible. Leave ta ferment ferment in a place with with a temperature of of 25"C. 25°C. Leave to (77'F.). When Wb en fermentation is is complete complete ind the the wine wine has has become clear, draw draw off off into mto aa keg keg and and put put in in aa place place with with aa temperature temperature not not exceeding exceeding 15"C. 15~C. (59'F.). (59°P.). At At the the end end of of one one month, mon th, draw draw off off again again and and keep keep in in aa cellar cellar in aa full, full, wellwellbunged bunged keg. !ceg. After After one one year, year, decant decal1t into into bottles. boUles.

liquid liquid drawn drawn off. This isis aa biller, off. This bitter, aromatic, aromatic, stimulating stimulating beverage.

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BÉZIERS proBEZIERS -- Town Town of of the the Hérault H€rault département ddpartement which which produces great deal deal of duces aa great rd table of red table wines. wines. The The culinary culinary specialities specialities of the regron are are the of the the same same as as those those found found in in aU all towns towns of of LangllJedloc. Languedoc. They They include include escargots eseargots àit la h lodévoÎse; loddvoise; cabassols; cabassols; manouls; manouls; small small Béziers pdtCs des B6ziers pdtis called PCzenas; called pâtés des Pézenas; flaunes ar flauzonnes de Lodive; fouaces aux fritlons; and flaunes or flmtzottnes de fouaces aux frittons; and oreilletes. oreilletes. BEZIEU BEZIEU SOEP SOEP or or REDCURRANT REDCURRANT SOUP SOLTP @elgian cookery). cookery). SOUPE soupE AUX Aur( GROSEU.LES water; Cook vermicelli vermicelli in water; cRosExr.rrs -- Cook when when ready, add potato flour add salt salt and and patata little cold cold diluted in in aa liule flour diluted water. Add redcurrantjuiœ water. redcurrant juice and and sugar. sugar. BIARROTTE BHRROTIE (À LA)-- Gamish Garni$ for for small cuts ofmeat of meat comcomG LA) posed posed of galettes; the of âpes cCpes and and ga/etles; prepared as latter, prepared the latter, as for for potatoes (see (see POT Duchesse A TOES), form Duchesse pOlaLOes POTATOES), form the the base. base.

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BICARBONATE BICARBONATE OF OF SODA. SODA. BICARBONATE BTcARBoNATE DE oe SOUDE souos - In In medicine, tbis this is is used used as as ao an alkali and and antacid. In In cooking, it is added addd to to sorten soften the water used used for certain vegetables. It is is sometimes sometimes added added to prepared to the the water water for for the the carrots carrots prepared àd la la Vichy. BICHIQUES Bichique (See CURRY, Bichique BICHIQLJDS -- Very Very small small fish. fish. (Sec curry.)

BIGARADE BIGARADE SAUCE -- See SAUCE. SAUCE. BIGARREAU - Variety BIGARREAU Variety of of hard-fleshed hard-fleshed cherry, cherry, rcd red and

white. (See CHERRY.)

Nineteenth century restaurateur. After ACter BIGNON (Louis) -- Nineteenth a good training and aod much experience a experienoe in well-known Paris restaurants, he he took took over'the over the managernent management of Café Riche, CafC Riche,

I

which saon sole h à la Riche and woodcock it à soon became famous; sole Riche were among among many noted specialities. The restaurant la Riclrc was frequented by most of the men of letters leHcrs of the period. a remarkably intelligent man man who who took took an Bignon was a inteiest înterest in in viniculture viniculture and and agriculture. agriculture. He He received received the awards at world exhibitions exhibitions of of agricultural produce, highest awards and became the first French restaurateur restaurateur to be awarded the Legion Legion of of Honour, Honour, in 1867. 1867.

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vrN VIN DE DE cENdvRE GENIÈVRE (crr*rvnrrre)

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sugar and + dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant scant t* cup) cup) wine vinegar vinegar into a small barrel. Add Add water. water. Leave Leave to macerate for to macerate for 88 days, days, then The wine wine wiU then bottle. bottle. The will he for use ready for be ready use 88 days after days after bouling in the bottling in the wintcr, winter, and and after after 44 days in the days in the summer. summer.

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Juiper*ine WIDe (genewette).

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Raisin wLne. vn.t DE DE RAISINS wine. VIN RArsrNs SECS Fut 1I litre litre (li pints, sEcs - Put generous quart) raisins, 1, cups) GlU'" """_U raisins, 300 granulated 300 g.g. (II oz., oz.,l] cups) )';,

BIGOS @olish (Polisb cookery) -- Wash a 4 kg. (9 lb.) sauerkraut sauerkraul in BIGOS several waters before before boiling it in water. water. Drain, Drain, and add 22 several pounded pounded onions on ions and and 4 peeled and and diced diced cookirtg apples. apples. Mix well. weIL Fut Put in in a a casserole in layers layers with with cooked meats meats Mix venison, chicken, chicken, mutton, mutton, duck, ham, harn, sausages or such as venison, pickled pÎckled pork. Add Add butter butter to to each each layer, layer, pour pour in in a little liule stock, and cook in in aa slow oven oven for for 22 hours. hours. and About 25 25 minutes minutes before before servin!, serving, add add a butter-and-flour butter-and-flour About roux (q.v.'1 made made with with a a little liUle of the the liquor liquor in which which the the roux SGLrerACrœw was was cooked, cooked, and and serve serve in in this this sauce. sauce. sauerkraut

BIJAI\E BIJANE -- Cold Cold soup soup popular popular in in the the Anjou Anjou reglon region made made by by crumbling bread bread into into sweetend sweetened red red wine. wine. crumbling

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Bll,BERRY. MvRTTLLE MYRTILLE - Small Small plant plant common in in upland upland BILBERRY. woods (naturalised (naturalised in in U.S.A.). U.S.A.). The tart taft purple purple berries berries can can woods jam, syrups be stewed, stewed, and and they tbey are are also also used used ininjam, syrups and and liqueurs. liqueurs. be

Put Put 50 litres (l(1 I gallons, gallons, 14 14 gallons) gallons) juniper juniper berries bernes into mto 100 litres wormlitres (22 (22 gallons, gallons, 28 28 gallons) gallons) water, water, add add 22 handfuls handfuls of ofwormwood wood and and leave leave to to ferment ferment in in aa cool cool plaoe place for for one one month. month. Filter Pilter and and bottle. botlle. The The supply supply of of this this beverage beverage may may be he prolonged prolonged by by leaving leaving the the berries berries in in the the receptacle receptacle and and adding adding water wal.er to 10 replae replace the the

Bll.E BILE

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Thiek, greenish-yellow, bitter bitter fluid fluid secretd secreted by by Thick,

the liver. livcr. ItTt isis called 'gall' in cookery cookery and and in in industry. industry. the BIRD. oBBAU OISEAU -- Many Many wild wild and and domestic domestic birds birds are are edible. edible. BIRD. 124 124

BISCUIT BISCUIT

(Nrcolas) Biscuits (Nico/as) Biscuits

t-'lBnteor -(petits fours). Blsculrs ÀA L'ABRICOT fours). BISCUITS biscuits (petits Apricot biscuits Apricot yolks in in aa 16 egg egg yolks and 16 (18 oz., fine sugar sugar and g. (18 2| cups) fine Cream 500 500 g. oz., 2tcups) Cream Whisk flour. Whisk (l lb. sieved Bour. 5l cups) cups) sieved g. (1 lb. 66 oz., oz., 51 Add 625 6ZS g. bowl. Add bowl. into the the fold carefully carefully into and fold froth, and into aa stiff stiff froth, whites into egg whites the egg the paste. paste. . . . the with the tins wlth. baking tms flour-sprinkled bakmg greased and and Bour-sprinkled Half-fill greased Half-fill little Add aa httle forcing-bag. Add piped through through aa forcing-bag. mixture, piped biscuit mixture, biscuit sifting jam, and mixture, sifting remaining mixture, with the the remaining and cover cover with apricot jam, apricot 20 for 20 oven for moderate oven in aa moderate Bake in top. Bake the top. over the sugar over fine sugar fine tins. in airtight airtight tins. minutes. When When cool, cool, store store in minutes. (cookies). BISCUITS soumlfs BIscuITs SOUFFLÉS biscuits (cookies). soufl6 biscuits Chocolate soufflé Chocolate and sugar and (18 oz., fine sugar g. (18 2| cups) cups) fine oz., 2* Whisk 500 500 g. AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,Ar -- Whisk AU add firm, add mixture isis finn, the mixture When the low heat. heat. When whites over over low l0 egg egg whites 10 has been been which has chocolate which (lL oz., g- (II softened chocolate oz,l1 squares) softened 300 g. 300 II squares) whites. with 22 egg egg whites. blended with blended sheet baking s?eet buttered ba.king onto aa buttered forcing-bag onto Pipe through through aa forcing-bag Pipe into mixture Into the mIxture spoon the flour, or or spoon with flour, dusted with has been been dusted which has which (180'C., oven (180°C., moderate oven paper cases. Bake inin aa moderate cases. Bake small paper smaIJ 4). Gas Mark Mark 4). 350oF., Gas 350°F., Mix together together GENEvoIs -- Mix (cookies). BISCUITS BIscuIN GENEVOIS biscrrits (cookies). Genoo biscuits Genoa yolks, 1I w~ole egg, whole.egg, egg yolks, (4 OZ., fine sugar, sugar, 33 egg cr.p) fine 125g.g. (4 oz., t* cup) 125 with aa pinch of Stir wlth of salt. salt. Stlr and aa pinch grated lemon rind and lemon rind little grated aa little (2oz.,} melted cup) melted oz., I cup) 50 g.g. (2 Add 50 minutes. Add for 22minutes. wooden spoon for wood en spoon ground almonds, 125g.g. almonds, 125 tablespoons) ground o2.,6 35 g.g. (1(l* butter, 35 i OZ., 6 tablespoons) butter, whites fold inin33egg eggwhites mix. Lastly Lastly fold and mix. flour,and cup) sieved sieved Bour, oz.,l1 cup) (4(4OZ., froth. toaastiff stifffroth. whisked to whisked which have moulds whichhave into finger-shaped finger-shaped rnoulds mixture into the mixture Pour the Pour and sugarand offine mixture of fine sugar withaamixture and dusted dustedwith buttered and been buttered been Dry the the oven. Dry (cornstarch). Bake veryslow slowoven. Bake ininaa very cornflour (comstarch). comflour airtight tins. tins. andstore store ininairtight sieveand biscuits on onaasieve biscuits Mix AUGINGEMBRE (cookies). BISCUITS GINGEMBRE - - Mix BIscuITs AU biscuits(cookies). Ginger biscuits Ginger ground teaspoonsgroun~ sugar, 2 teaspoons fine sugar,2 125g.g. (4(4OZ., oz., tI cup) fine 125 "rrp)stirring until spoonuntii wooden spoon with liawooden yolks, stirring with ginger and eggyolks, and44egg ginger

various small covers various the tenn term covers French cookery cookery the In ln classic classic French roasted or are generally roasted which are type, which birds of the the sparrow sparrow type, birds of cooked on skewers like larks.

(U.S. Lotus). LoTIER Lotus). LOTIER TREFOIL (V.S. BIRD'S-FOOT BIRD'S-FOOT TREFOa grows abundantly in meadows, abundantly in plant which which grows Leguminous Leguminous plant leaves, The leaves, crops. The cereal crops. in fields of cereal and in highways, and along the highways, when pleasant fragrance, especially when fragrance, especially flowers have have aa pleasant stems and flowers stems and marinades. flavour marinades. to Bavour dried used to and can dried, and can be be used plant are are of this this plant flowers of leaves and and Bowers the leaves In In 'sorne districts the some districts rabbits hutch rabbits to hutch rabbit to wild rabbit of wild flavour of used the Bavour impart the used to to irnpart of bird'sbird'shandful of with aa handful rabbit isis stuffed stuffed with when The rabbit when cooked. cooked. The foot after being drawn. foot trefoil being drawn. trefoil after BISCOTTE RUSK. See RUSK. BISCOTTE -- See

in and, in of biscuit, biscuit, and, many kinds kinds of to many BISCUIT applied to BISCUIT -- Tenn Tenn applied cut to to mixture, cut ice cream cream mixture, made of of ice French, an iced iced sweet, to an sweet, made French, to (See ICE NeapoliAND ICES, ICES, NeapoliICE CREA CREAMS like biscuits look like biscuits (See MS AND look tan tan ice ice cream). cream\. made to be be made used to DE GUERRE GUERRE-These Army - These used Blsculrs DE biscuits. BISCUITS Army biscuits. part water), water), (6 parts parts flour to 1I part flour to paste (6 of fairly substantial substantial paste of aa fairly completely offuntil cooled off and cooled baked until completely 20 to 25 minutes, minutes, and baked for for 20 to 25 paste, an? and to the the paste, was added added to dry. aven was little leleaven dry. Sometimes Sometimes aa little as Itit taste, as some taste, grve the dough sorne the dough to give invariably invariably sorne someseasoning seasoning to were and were to chew, chew, and difficult to were difficult had The biscuits biscuits were no salt in it. it. The had no salt in liquid enough liquid not absorb absorb enough good in did not as they they did not not much in soups, soups,as much good when when soaked. soaked. food Army food of the the Army work of the work result of of the After as aa result 1894, as After 1894, bread, army bread, by army replaced by was replaced chemist, biscuit was Balland, biscuit chemist, BaBand, popular not popular stillnot thougb still absorbant, though porous and which and absorbant, wasporous which was wi th soldiers. with soldiers.

(U.S. cookies). Blsculrs DE DE cookies). BISCUITS BISCUITS (U.S. SWEET SWEET BISCUITS pArnsnnrrPÂTISSERIE t25 125

BISHOP

BISHOP

quite smooth. Add 50 g. e oz., { cup) rice flour and 25 s.. quite smooth. Add 50 g.potato (2 OZ., t cup) rice flour and 25 g. (l o2.,3 tablespoons) flour airdstir stirweil. well.Fold Foldinin? (1 OZ., 3 tablespoons) potato flour and 4 egg whites whisked to a stifffroth. eggPipe whites whisked to a stiff froth. the mixture onto greased paper through a forcing_ Pipe the mixture onto greased paper through a forcingbag, shaping it into small sticks. Splintcte with sugar, an? bag, shaping it into small sticks. Sprinkle with sugar, and baking sheet. Bake in the oven at lg0"C.I35b"F., n]ace 9nal baking sheet. place on Bake in the oyen at 180°C. (350°F., Gas Mark 4) for 8 to l0 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in Gas Mark 4) for 8 to 10 minutes. Dry on a rack, and store in an airtight tin. an airtight tin. Lemon biscuits (cookies). Brscr.rrrs AU crrRoN Cream LemoD biscuits (cookies). BISCU1TS AU CITRON - - Cream g. (2 oz., 50 cup) fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until the +cup) 50 g. (2 OZ., fine sugar with 2 egg yolks until mixture is firm. Add grated rind of I lemon, 25 g. (l the oz., of 1 lemon, 25 g. (1 OZ., mixture is firm. Add grated rind cup) sifted flour, lS oz., 4 teaspoons) potatJ flour, i GOZ., t* cup) sifted flour, 15 g.e.(t 4 teaspoons) potato flour, 1 teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a teaspoon ground almonds, and 2 egg whites whisked to a stiff froth. stiffpiry froth. through a forcing-bag into biscuits on on wafer wafer paper. paper. _ Pipe through a forcing-bag into biscuits with powdered sugar, and bake at 160.C. lZiS;f ., fnrinkle with Sprinkle powdered sugar, and bake at 160°C. (325°F., Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding Gas Mark 3). Dry and store the biscuits as in preceding recrpes. recipes. Italian biscuits. Brscurrs A r'nq.rrrNr.tr - Cream 500 g. ltalian biscuits. BISCUITS À L'IT ALlENNE - Cream 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) fine sugar with l0 egg yolks until smoott. O? OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar with 10 egg yolks until smooth. Whisk the egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the Whisk egg whites to a stiff froth and fold into the mixture.theAdg g.-(4 o2.,3 cup) potato flour and 100 g. 190 g. (4 OZ., mixture. Add 100 ! cup) potato flour and 100 g. (4 oz.,l cup) sifted flour. Mix well. (4 OZ., 1 cup) sifted flour. Mix weil. Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, Butter biscuit baking tins, using very hot melted butter, sprinkle the entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tini sprinkle entire surface with icing sugar, and fill the tins with the the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with more icing sugar and more icing sugar and with the biscuit mixture. Sprinkle with bake in a hot oven. bake in a hot oyen. Turn out the biscuits, ice with Curagao-flavoured icing, Turn out the biscuits, ice withCuràçao-flavoured icing, and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. and decorate the tops with candied orange peel. Small unleavened biscuits. pETrTs pArNS AzyME - Mix SmaU unJeavened biscuits. PETITS PAINS AZYME - Mix 500 g. oz., 4| cups) sieved flour and 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, 500 g. _(18 (18 OZ., 4!- cups) sieved flour and g. (18 OZ., 2,} cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the cups) fine sugar. Spread on the table, make a well in the ggltre, put in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and g eggs. centre, in a pinch of salt dissolved in water and 8 eggs. My to put a firm dough, adding a little of necessary. Mix to a firm dough, adding a httle water water of necessary. Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll out and cul into Leave the dough in a cool place. Roll and cut into circles with a pastry-cutter. place on a out lightly buttered circles with a pastry-cutter. Place on a lightly buttered sheet, prick the biscuits baking sheet, prick the biscuits all ail over, over, and and bake bake in in a a slow slow

*

Bison Bison

The American American isis different different from from the the European European bison, bison, The which isis found found in in sorne parts of some parts of Russia. Russia. which All methods methods of preparation indicated of preparation indicated for for beef beef are are Ali applicable to to bison, bison, but but only only after after marinating marinating the the meat meat for for applicable several hours. hours. several BISQUE -- Name Name of preparation in of aa preparation in the form of aa purée, the form pur6e, BISQUE more particularly particularly aa purée pur6e of of crayfish, crayfish, or or other other shellfish, shellfish, more as aa thick served as thick soup. soup. served Bisque soups soups in in the eighteenth century century were were made Bisque the eighteenth made of poultry and and game game without without any any shellfish, shellfish, and and were were not poultry pur6es, of boiled poultry purées, but but aa presentation presentation of poultry or game, sometimes with aa garnish of cocks' combs and kidneys. times served served with garnish of In of Dons de In 1758, 1758, in in the the last last edition edition of de Comus, there is a crayfish, which really recipe for for a a quail quail soup soup with with crayfish, really was was a fcipe bisque soup, soup, made made of of quails, quails, topped topped with with crayfish crayfish pur6e. purée. li.sque Bisque, Bisque, therefore, therefore, probably probably meant meant a a soup, with with some sorne kind of of meat meat and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. What What could could have have given given the the crayfish pur6e purée the name name of bisque bisque soup soup was was the the .addition addition of of crayfish crayfish meat to to various various soups, soups, which which were were then th en called called bisques. bisques. Bisques, Bisques, whether whether made made of of shellfish, shellfish, poultry poultry or or game, game, are are considered considered high high style style preparations, preparations, and and have have always always been been excessively excessively spiced. spiced. For For Crab Crab bisque, bisque, Crayfish Crayfish bisque, bisque, Lobster Lobster bisque bisque and Spiny Spiny lobster lobster bisque, bisque, see see SOUp. SOUP.

3:5iloyen.

BISHOP (Mulled wine). BrscHoF - Hot beverage popular in BISHOP (MuHed wine). BISCHOF - Hot beverage popular in northern European countries. northern European countries. The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this The bischof (the word can also be spelt bishop in this connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon connection) is heated wine spiced with orange and lemon peel, cinnamon, cloves, and peel, cinnamon, cloyes, and sometimes sometimes star star anise. anise. It It isis served mostly at evening parties.

served mostly at evening parties. 19{ lishop. BrscHoF cr.lc6 - Pour a bottle of Champagne Iced bisbop. ,BISCHOF GLACÉ - Pour a bottle of Champagne and 5 dl. (scant pint,2f, cups) lime-blossom tea into abowl. and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2t cups) lime-blossom tea into a bowl, add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a add an orange and half a lemon cut into thin slices, and a sufficient quantity of heavy (32') sugar syrup to bring the sufficient quantity of heavy (32°) sugar syrup to bring the mixture to a light syrup consistency (18.). Leave in a cool mixture to a light syrup consistency (18°). Leave in a cool place for I hour. Strain through a fine strainer. place for 1 hour. Strain through a fine strainer. Ice_as for a granitd. Add 4 small glasses fine Champagne -brandy Ice asand for a granité. Add 4 sm ail glasses fine Champagne serve in punch glasses. brandy and serve in punch glasses. Rhine wine bishop. BrscHoF vrN DU RHrN Melt 250 g. ,^ Rhine wine bis hop. BISCHOF AU AU VIN DU RHIN -- Melt 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of (9 OZ., generous cup) sugar and mix with grated rind of I orange and I lemon, 2 cloves and a small stick of cinnamon 1 orange and 1 lem on, 2 cloyes and a small stick of cinnamon dissolved in 3 dl. (| pint, l{ cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. dissolved in 3 dl. (t pint, It cups) water. Cook for 5 minutes. Add I bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam Add 1 bottle of Rhine wine. Heat until a light white foam is formed on the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve the surface. Sieve through a fine strainer. Serve jug or on inis afonned in a large silver punch bowl. in a jug or in a large silver punch bowl. Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other Bishop can also be prepared with Champagne or any other wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or wine. To make it more stimulating, a little Madeira, sherry or Marsala is sometimes added. Marsala is sometimes added. BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It BISON - Genus of wild cattle, allied to the ox and yak. It differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in differs from the ox by its shorter, wider skull, the way in which the line of the back falls which the line of the back falls away away from from the the rounded rounded humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head 1 humped shoulders, by the thick woolly coat covering head and forequarters, and by its beard. 1 and forequarters, and by its beard.

BISTORT. BISTORT. BrsroRTE BISTORTE -- A A farinaceous farinaceous plant, plant, the the roots roots of of which which are are twisted twisted in in an an S-shape, S-shape, baked baked on on hot hot coals coals and and eaten eaten by by the the Samoyeds Samoyeds instead instead of of bread. bread. The The tender tender leaves leaves of ofthis this plant, plant, found found in in some sorne high high Alpine Alpine regions, regions, are are eaten eaten like like spinach. spinach. BITOK BITOK @ussian (Russian cookery). cookery). BrroKE BITOKE -- Bitok Bitok can can be be made made of of

any any kind kind of ofmeat; meat; beef, beef, mutton, mutton, pork, pork, veal, veal, chicken, chicken, rabbit, rabbit, etc. etc. Mince Mince the the meat, meat, add add bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and finelv finely chopped chopped onion on ion (either (either raw raw or orlightly lightly fried), fried), season, season, and and put put through through aa mincer mincer again again to to ensure ensure perfect perfect smoothness. smoothness. Shape Shapeinto intocakes cakesabout about44 clrn. cm.(lt (ltinches) inches)inindiameter, diameter,dredge dredge ininflour, flour,fry fryininbutter, butter,cover coyerwith withsour sourcream, cream,and andsimmer simmerfor for 55to 7 minutes. to 7 minutes.

BITTER. BITTER.AMER AMER-- Having Havingan an unpleasant, unpleasant, wormwood wormwood taste. tas te.

Among Amongthe thebitter bitterplants plantswhich whichare areused usedfor formaking makinginfusions infusions

or or decoctions decoctions are: are: wormwood, wormwood, camomile, camomile, endive, endive,fumitory, fumitory,

gentian, gentian,germander, germander,hops, hops,Iichen, lichen,wild wildpansy, pansy,lesser lessercentaury, centaury, quassin (bitterash), ash),cinchona, cinchona,rhubarb. rhubarb. quassiaamara amara(bitter 126 126

BLANQUET BLANQUET Operation consisting of boiling BLANCHING. BLANCHJNG. srlNcHn BLANCHffi-- Operation consisting of boiling

According According to to Foussagrives, Foussagrives, infusions infusions or or liqueurs liqueurs made made of ofbitter bitterplants may may be be divided divided into into five !ive classes classes (i) (i)purgative mU'oni""'" bitters, billers, based on on rhubarb, rhubarb, aloes, aloes, etc. etc.;; (ii) (ij) nauseous nauseous bitters, based based on on camomile; camomÎle; (iii) (iii) astringent astringent bitters, bitlers, which, wbich, with witb the the

them, or, various variousingredients ingredientsinin salted saltedwater walereither eithertotoharden barden them, or, them' as as inin the the case case of ofsome sorne green green vegetables, to ta cook cook them. water, are Some Sorne ingredients, previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water, are as in the blanched blanched in in water water (gradually brought brought to to the the boil), boil), as in Ihe lambs' and calves' and trotters, heads calves' case of case of calves' and aotters, calves' and lambs' sweetsweetskin. breads, breads, etc., etc., both both to to cleanse cleanse them them and and to to harden harden the the skjn. to is blanched large dice, in (pork) generally cut Bacon Bacon (pork) fa! fal.., cut in large dice, is blanched to green vegetables, extract extract surplus surplus salt, salt, before fryingit. il. Certain Certain green vegetables, to reduce such such as as green green cabbages, cabbages, onions, on ions, etc., etc., are are blanched blanched to reduce their their pungency. Other Othervegetables vegetables and and fruiq fruit, such such as as tomatoes, tomatoes, peel. peaches, etc., eIC., are are blanched hlaoched to to render render them them easier easier to to peel. To remove skin, husk, etc. BLANCHING BLANCHING (Nuts). (Nuts). MoNDER MONDER -- To rem ove skin, husk, etc. of of almonds, almonds, walnuts, walnuts, pistachios pistachios and and hazelnuts. ha:l.elnuts. skin. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over the the shelled shelled nuts nuts to to soften soften the the skin.

bitter bitter substance substance content content of of tannin, tannin, include include

cinchona, cinchona, knapweed, KOiiDvveeiO. bark bark of ofchestnut chestnut tree, tree, etc.; etc.; (iv) (iv) stimulating stimulaling bitters bitters (ap€ritifs) based . based on on wormwood, wormwood, peel peel of of bitter bitter oranges, oranges, gentian, gentJan, germander, gennander, hops, hops, etc. etc.;; (v) (v) convulsing convulsing or or toxic toxic bitters bilrers medicine. belong belongin in the the province province of ofmedicine.

BITTER BITTER ASH. ASH, nors-AMER BOIS-AMER -- Quassia Quassia arnara amara (q.v.), (q.v.), used used in in the the preparation prepara1ion of of ap6ritifs. aperitifs.

BLACKBIRD. BLACKBIRD. ri,rEnrn MERLE -- Bird Bird of of the the thrush thrush family, family, with with black black plumage plumage and and yellow yellow beak. beak. Its lts flesh flesh is is aromatic aromatic in in flavour flavour and and slightly slightly bitter, bitter, and and is is most most fragrant fragrant in in autumn. autumn. Corsican Corsican blackbirds blackbirds enjoy enjoy a a great great reputation. reputation. (See (See THRUSH.) THRUSH.)

BLANCMANGE. -'These BLANCMANGE. BLANc-MANcrn BLANC-MANGER'These delicious delicÎous sweets,' swects,' 'are said Carême in in his his Traiti Traité des des enftemets entremets dc de douceur, douceur, 'are said Car€me they greatly greatly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes, gastronomes, but" but, to to be he enjoyed, enjoyed. they two must must be be extremely extremely smooth smooth and and very very white. white. Given GÎven these these Iwo be qualities qualities (so (so rarely rarely found found together), together), they tbey will will {w1y,s. always be

BLACK BLACK CUMIN. CUMIN. NIGELLE NIGELLE -- Plant Plant of of the the Ranunculus Ranunculus family, family, the the pungent pungent seeds seeds of of which whÎch are are used used as as aa spioe in ln India India and and the the Mediterranean Mediterranean region. region. The The seeds seeds can cao be used used instead instead of of pepper. pepper. BLACKCURRANT. cAssls CASSl'\

Fruit of of the the -- Fruit

jellies.. This is preferred to to other other creams, creams, even even to ta transparent jellies.This is creamy' because almond almond is is very very nourishing and contains just right for sweetening the are properties which balsamic balsamic properties which are just bitterness bittemess of of humours.' humours.' 'Blanch Blancmange Hhmc:ma'nee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). BLANc-MANGER I:ILANC-MANGHR - 'Blanch about 450 450 g. g. (1 lb., generous 3 3 cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds and and about in a bowl of cold to soak them Leave almonds. bitter twenty twenty bitter Leave to soak in a bowl of cold a sieve water, water, which which renders renders them them singularly singularly white. white. Drain Drain on on a sieve them, mortar, in a Pound napkin. and and rub rub in in a a Pound in a monar, moistening moistening them, prevent at a with I tablespoon water little little by by little, little,! water at a time, time, to to prevent into a fine oil. When they them them turning tuming into ioto oil. they are are pounded pounded into a fine 5 glasses filtered water, dilute with and dilute paste, bowl and put into ioto aa bowl with 5 glasses filtered water, paste, put dish, over aa dish, clean napkin at aa time. time. Spread aa clean httle at lOOeAi added a !iule napkin over the with 22 people twistin-g the and, with into it and, pour the the blancmange into pour in 350 g- (12.o2., milk. Put almond press out all the napkin, napkin, press out the almond milk. oz., fine Sleve. sieve. through aa fine and rub rub through granulated sugar sugar and l]-cupsf granulaled (l plus g. oz. add 30 again, once napkin a Sirain-through once again, add 30 g. (1 oz. plus Blend than tepid. Blend little warmer warmer than 4 grains) clarified isinglass aa liule in aa and place in mould and into aa mould with the blancmange. Pour into ice. with crushed ice. container with container glass rum to the add t glass rum blancmange, blancmange, add 'To make make rum 'To rwn to the blancmaraschino blancmake aa maraschino To make above. To described above. mixture described mixture glass maraschino. maraschino. add 1-I glass mange, add pots, prepare two-thirds of in small 'To serve small pOIS, sweet in this sweet serve this prepare two-thirds of you will, however, recipe; you preceding recipe; quantity given given in in tbe the preceding the quantity tbe will, however, in small small served in blancmange as blancmange served less isinglass, as little less need aa lîttle need it is to be turned out. when than delicate more pots be to has pots has lo be more tban when it is ta he tumed out. vanillq coffee, coffee, lemon, vanilla, with lemon, flavoured with be flavoured can he Blancmanges cao Blancmanges and strawberries. strawberries. hazelnuts and pistachio nuts, chocolate, chocolate, pistacbio nUlS, hazelnuts incorporated-' be incorporalcd.' can also also he cream can Whipped cream Blanch BLANc-MANGER (modern method). Blancmange HIElUclrnalllge (modem BLANC-MANGER - Blanch 15 g' and 15 almonds and sweet almonds lit cups) sweet oz., li and skÎn skin 250 g.g. (9(9 OZ., and g. pound in a mortar and pound almonds and bitter almonds teaspoons) bitter o2.,5 H(L oz., 5 teaspoons) in a mortar (scant pint, cups) 2{ litre with Dilute little water. water. Dilule with ~1 litre (seant pint, 2i cups) with aa little with over a cloth over linen cloth coarse lioeu paste on on to to aacoarse this paste Turn tlUs water. Turn cold water. cold a the paste milk. Return almond all the out and squeeze bowl bowl and squeeze out ail the almond milk. Retum the paste fresh water enough fresh pound again, adding enougb again, adding and pound mortar and the mortar to the to water milk. almond milk. (scant pint, pint,2l cups) almond extract ·;litre toextract I litre (seant lO 2i cups) (* g' oZ.)softened softened 15 (! oz.) Heat 200 200 g. (7(7 oz.) oz.) lump sugar, 15 Heat wooden spoon gelatine and stir with aawooden almond rnilk, and seir and the almond gelatine tepid, add I Whenilitisistepîd, cool. When tocool. leaveta and leave until ilit boils. boils.Strain Strainand until kirsch. orkirsch. (6 tablespoons, seant! rumor cup) mm scant Icup) dl.(6tablespoons, dl. mould bavarois mould pourinto into aabavarois cold, pour mixture Îsiscold, themixture When the When plaoe on crushed ice' andplace oil,and almond oil, greased with withsweet sweet almond On cmshed ice. an hour. afteran andserved servedafter outand turned out beturned canbe The blancmange blancmange can hour.

blackcurrant blackcurrant

bush bush used used to to make make a liqueur (see (see RATAFIA) RATAFIA) and and preserves. preserves. vDssIE VESSLE - Membraneous Membraneous bag bag in in animals, animaIs., used used after butchering butchering in charcaterie charcuterie to ta prepare prepare certain certain dishes, dishes, for for example example Roum Rouen fucklins duckling m en chemise chemise (see (see DUCK). DUCK).

BLADDER.

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(l

on BLAISOF BLAJSOIS or BIESOIS BLÉSOIS -- Region of of France France bordering bordering on the Loire. are of Blaisois The specialities specialities of specialities -- The Culinary Culillary speciaIities Blaisois are Orl6anais. similar to those of nearby Orléanais. quality' for !heir their quality. known for well known rillons are weil rillettes and and rillons Blois ril/eues particularly the the excellent, particularly All the charcuterie charcuterie of this region is excellent, Ali (see (blood) puddings black (blood) and black andouillettes and sausages, andouillettes puddings (see same in the the same made in are made PORK); game pdtis; pâtés; lark pdtis which are pdti,made Chartres pêllé, shape as the famous Pithivi ets pdtis;and sbape and Chartres made ofpartridges. of partridges. fish, freshwater fish, pike, carp and other other freshwater are the pike, excellent are Also excellent blanc (see au beurre beurre blanc (q.v.), stewed, or or au prepared en en matelote matelote (q.v.), following The """J'VU"'" quality. The good quality. of good is of Blaisois is in Blaisois itlfE). Meat Meat in lapereau àd la gastronomes: lapereau by gastronomes: esteemed by are esteemed specialities are Sp<~Cl:'1lJt.les Sologne style); gAteau in the the Sologne (young rabbit cooked in rabbit cooked silognote (young SOl,O!!!iIOle des de"rJoi.~eu.!?s demoiselles Tatin(see (see PITHIVIERS), tarte des PITHIVIERS); tarte Pitiiviers (see I-"IIJ~"JJPr~ (tart) and and Orl6ans cotignacs (q'v')' Lamotte-Beuvron (tart) TART) ; Lamotte-Beuvron TART); Orl6anais include Saintand Orléanais Blaisois and of Blaisois Wines -- Wines Wines of Wioe5 Orl6ans the Orléans among the Beaugency among and Beaugency Meung and Jean-de-Braye, Jean-de-Braye, Meung wines. Blois wines. the Blois of the Cdte-des-Grouets of wines, and and .côte-des-Grouets wines, to and tend tend to of sun sun and lack of from aa lack suffer from wines ofien often suffer These wines These local perfectly with the local go perfectly with the but they they go edge, but on edge, teeth on one's teeth set one's set region. of the the region. dishes of dishes

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describe aa used to to describe usually used term usually culinary term French culinary BLANC -- AA French BLANC flour inin and flour water and of water mixture of from aa mixture made from court-bouillon made courl-bouillon certain andcertain offal and white offal as white such as substances, such various substances, which various which cultivated which cultivated court-bouillon inn which cooked. AA court-houillon arecooked. vegetables, are vegetables, (se COURTCOURTblanc (sec called blanc also called cooked isis also are cooked mushrooms are mushrooms BOUILLON). BOUILLON). on either on based either stock, based whitestock, also applied tato white name isisalso This name This (see STOCKS, White Stocks). WiteStocks). chicken (see vealor orchîcken veal orother other chickenor ofchicken define breaSI breast of todefine usedto blanc Îsisused Theterm termblanc The volaille, de volaille, asblancs blancsde onmenus menus as poultry whicb which are described on aredescribed poultry etc. etc.

obgiventatoChampagne Champagne obNamegiven BLANC DE DE BLANCS BLANCS - - Name BLANC distinct white grapes,asasdistinct from the Pinot-Chardonnay white tainedfrom thePinot-Chardonnay tained grapes,the the'Blanc from blackgrapes, frornthe obtainedfrorn theChampagne Champagne obtained from 'Blanc Noirs'. deNoirs'. de

August. orAugust. Julyor ripens ininJuly pearwhich whichripens Frenchpear BLANQUET - -French BLANQUE'!' 127 127

BLANQUETTE BLANQUETTE Thereare a-Ttwo kinds:the two.kinds: thelarge andthe largeand thesmall smallblanquet. blanquet.They There They aremediocre mediocreininflavour, flavour,and andused usedmostly mostlyfor forcompotes. com-potds. are

BLANQLIETTE - -White ragofrt,based Whiteragoût, basedononlamb, lamb,veal vealoror BLANQUETTE chickenmeat, meat,bound boundwiwith yolksand eggyolks andcream, cream,and chicken th egg andaccomaccompaniedbybya agamish garnishofofsmall smallonions onionscooked cookedinincourtpanied court_ (q.v.),and bouillon(q.v.), andmushrooms. mushrooms.Other Otheringredients ingredientsare bouillon aresomesometimesadded addedtotothe garnish. thegamish. times Cutthe themeat meatinto pieces.Coyer intopieces. Coverwith withwhite whitestock Cut stockororwater, water, season and andbring bringtotothe theboil. boil.Remove Removescum. scum. season Addananonion onionstudded studdedwith withaaclove, clove,a acarrot Add carrotand anda a bouqtetgarni garni(q.v.). (q.v.).Simmer gentlyfor Simmergently for4545minutes bouquet minutesfor forlamb lamb orchicken, chicken,and and1il| hours hours for forveal. veal.Drain Drainthe or piecesand thepieces and retum them them totothe panwith thepan withsmall smallonions retum onionsand andmushrooms mushrooms whichhave have been beencooked cookedininwhite whitecourt-bouillon court-burillon (q.v.). (q.v.). which velouti(q. (q.v.) by thickening thickening the Prepare v.) by theliquor liquorwith with -Prepare aa velouté (q.v.) and whi3e roux roux (q.v.) and binding biriCing with with egg yolks and white eggloks aridcream. .rra.. juice, Add.a-little_lemon sprinkle with withchopped Add a little lemon juice, sprinkle ifiopped parsley, parsley,and and garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shapedcroûtons cro0tons fried gamish friedininbutter. butier. Blanquette àI lala ménagère, n6nagdrgalso also caUed Blanquette crlled Fricassée Fricass6e - _ Fry Frv pigces of of meat, meat, asas described described above, above, inin butter, pieces butter, without *itt orrt alfowing them them to to brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinklewith allowing withflour, flour,stir, stir, moisten moisten with white white stock stock or or water, water, bring bring to with to the theboil, boil,season, season, and andadd add an onion onion stuck stuck with with aa clove, clove, aa carrot an carrot and and aabouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). BT9 with with egg jrolks and egg yolks and cream, cream, as Bind described in as described in the therecipe recipe ^ Blanquette. for Blanquette. For For further further recipes for recipes for for various various blanquettes, blanquettis, see LAMB, LAMB, VEAL, VEAL, CHICKEN. CHICKEN see

called (hare),because calledlièvre liCvre(hare), becausethe theshape shapeofofitsitshead headresembles resembles that thatofofthe thehare. hare.ItItis isalso alsofound foundininthe lakeofofBourget thiJake Bourgetand andthe the fishermen fishermenofofthis thisregion regioncali (hunter).InInother callit itchasseur chasseur(hunter). other regions regionsit itisisknown knownasasbavecca. bavecca. The blenny's fiesh, white and good in flavour, is mainly _ The blenny's flesh, wiite and good in flavour, is mainly fried, fried,but butcan canalso alsobebeused usedasasananingredient ingredientforformatelotes matelotis (q.v.). (q.v.). BLETTE BLETTE- -Name Namegiven givenininsorne partsofofFrance someparts Francetotowhite white beet beetororchard. chard. BLEU (Tocook BLEU(To cookauaubleu) bleu)- -Method Methodapplied appliedtotofreshwater freshwater fish, fistr,mainly mainlytototroul. trout.This Thisconsists consistsofofplunging plungingthe thefish fishinto into a aboiling ofofwater boilingcourt-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.),generally generaliya amixture water -iit,r.e and andvinegar, vinegar,seasoned seasonedwith withsalt saltand andsometimes sometimesspiced spicedwith with thyme thymeand andbay leaf. bayleaf. Cooked that Cookedininthis thisway, way,the theskin skinofofthe fish,especially thefish, especially thatofof -accentuate trout, trout,takes takeson onaaslightly slightlybluish bluishcolour. colour.To Toaccentua te the the blueing, blueing, the thefish fishcan canbebesprinkled sprinkledwith purevinegar, withpure vinegar,before before immersing it in court-bouillon. immersing it in court-bouillon. AIl All fish fishcooked cooked au anbleu blatare generallyserved aregenerally servedwith withmelted melted butter, handed separately; ororwith Hollandaise sauce (see separately; with Hollandaise sauce (see lgtlgfanded SAUCE), SAUCE),or orany anyother other white whitesauce saucespecially speciallyrecommended recommended for poachedfish. forpoached fish. BLEU called BLEU D'AUVERGNE D'AUVERGI\E --Cheese Cheesethat thatisisstill stillsometimes sometimes called Bleu Blat de deSalers, Salers, eaten eaten from from November November totoMay. May. BLEU eaten from BLEU DE DE BASSILLAC BASSILLAC -- Limousin Limousincheese cheese eaten from November November to to May. May.

BLANQUETTE DE DE LIMOUX LIMOLX -- Sparkling BLANQUETTE Sparkling white white wine wine made made by the the 'natural' 'natural' method; method; the by the sparkle sparkle isis derived derived from gas from gas generated by by natural natural fennentation. generated fermentation. A A second second fermentation fermentati-on takes place in in the the bottle bottle without takes without the the addition addition of (In of sugar. sugar. (In other words, words,.through other through the the transfonnation transformation of of natural grup" n"turai grape in the the parent wine sugar remaining in wine after after the the first first fermentafermintiIt is is produced from the tion.) It the Mauzac Mauzac and and Clairette grapes, Clairette grapes, and gets its name from the commune of the Aude. of Limoux Limou in intnJeuae.

BLEU BLE-U DE DE BRESSE BRESSE -- ROl.~nd Roqnd blue cheese from blue cheese fromthe thecocooperative operative of of Servaz Servaz in in the the Ain. Ain. BLIND (To bake). CUIRE À BLANC - Flan (pie shell) baked Cfo bake). curBE A sreNc - Flan (pie shell) baked I|.II-VOi.e. 'blind', are baked in the 'blind', i.e. empty. empty. Sorne Some tart tart and and fian flan cases cas"s'ir. baked in the oyen, removed oven, and and filled filled with with dried dried vegetables, vegetables, which which are are removed once the cases are cooked. They are then filled once the cases are cooked. They are then filled with with the the ingredients ingredients indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Cuire also describes the cooking of certain Cuire au an blanc blanc also describes the cooking of certain substances in a special (mostly white substances (mostly white offal offal or variety meats) or variety meats| in a special court-bouillon cour t-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.).

BLENDER BLENDER - An An electrically electrically operated operated appliance appliance used used in in restaurant restaurant and and home home kitchens kitchens for for chopping chopping and and pur6eing puréeing sm ail quantities quantities of of foodstuffs foodstuffs in in the the preparition preparation oT of soups, soups, small sauces, soufl6s, souffiés, baby babyfood food and and other other dishes. dishes. ItIt isis also also usedto used to sauces, emulsifyeggs eggs for for such such sauces sauces as as Hollandaise, Hollandaise, B6arnaise, Béarnaise, etc. etc. emulsify

BLINI pancakes which have (Russian cookery) BLIM (Russian cookery) -- Blini Blini are are pancakes which have been been made made in in Russia Russia from from lime immemorial, especially time immemorial, especially during blini and various fillings during Shrovetide. Shrovetide. Recipes for !.ecipes for blini and various-fillings are given under HORS-D'ŒUVRE. are given under HORS-D'GUVRE. A. Petit, in his Traité la cuisine russe, says that during A. Petit, nhis TraitC de de h cuisine russe, says that during Shrovetide, humblest cottage to the richest palace, Strovetide, 'from 'from the the humblest cottage to the richest palaci they ail have their their blini, a day, the whole of that week'. they all have blini, twice twrcn a day, the whole of that week'. Batter for for blini. bUni. pArs PÂTE À BLINIS - Prepare a light batter of Batter A BLrNrrs - prepare a light batter of 20 g. (t oz., oz., I1 cake) yeast diluted in t litre 2i 20 yeast cake) dilutod in I litre (scant (siant pint, pint, 2l e. G cups) warm warm milk milk and and 50 g. (2 oz., t cup) sieved fiour. Leave cups) 50 g.Q oz., ] cup) sieved floui. Leave warm plae place for 2 hours. ta ferment ferment in in aa warm to for 2 hours. Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2| oz., 2i cups) sieved fi a ur, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. Add cups) sieved flour, 4 egg yolks, 3 dl. (t pint, pint, l| li cups) cups) wann warm milk milk and a pinch -of of salt. Mix (| and a pinch salt. Mix thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked to a stiff froth, and thoroughly. Add 4 egg whites whisked a stiff froth, and io 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) whipped cream. Leave the I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) whipped cream. Leave the batter to ta rise rise for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. Make small pancakes, frying batter Make small pancakes, frying them in in butter. bu tter. them

A genus genus of of European European - A

BLOATER. cRAeuELor CRAQUELOT - Slightly salted, smoked herring BLOATER. salted, served mainly in EngJand--slightly for breakfast and smoked for high herring tea.

Bleak

BLEAK BLEAK (Able0. (Ablet). ABLETTE ABLETTE -- Small Small European European freshwater freshwater fish, fish, with with white, white, rather rather insipid insipid flesh. flesh. It It is is used used mostly mostly for for frying. frying.

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BLENNY. BLENIYY.

BLENNIE cAGNETTE CAGNETTE BT.ENNTE

mainly in England for breakfast and for high tea. The bloater bloateris grilled on a low fire and served with melted The is grilled on a low fire and served with melted butter or Maître d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butter or Maltre d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters).

freshwjiter fish. fish. All Ali the the other other members members of oftne the blenny blenny family family f,reshwpter aresea seafish. fish. AAcharacteristic characteristicwhich whichisiscommon common to to all ail blennies blennies are theabsence absenceofscales, of scales,the thebody bodybeing beingcovered coveredwith withaalayer layerof of isisthe viscousmucus mucusof ofexceptional exceptionalthickness. thickness. ItItvaries variesin in size sizefrom from viscous cm. (4 (4to ta 66inches) inches) and and isis fawn-coloured, fawn-coloured, speckled speckled l010tota 1515cm. withbrown, brown,with withbrown browntransversal transversalstrips stripsalong alongthe theback. back. with

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BLOCK. BILLOT - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed BLOCK. BrLLor - Thick, short piece of tree trunk, placed on three three legs, legs, which serves for chopping-up meal. on which serves for chopping-up meat. A butcher's block is usually a wooden table encJosed in a A butcher's block is usually a wooden tible enclosed in a wooden frame. wooden frame.

The blenny blenny abounds abounds in in the the waterways waterways of of the the H6rault Hérault The

département. ItItisisparticularly particularlyplentiful plentiful inin Agde, Agde, where where itit isis dCpartemenr.

128 t28

BONBON BONBON BLOhID BLOND DE DE VEAU VEAU -- Old Old French French culinary culinary term tenn which describes describes white white veal stock. Car6me, Carême, nhis in his Traiti Traité des sauces, sauces,

and can be removed like like a choke of of a cooked artichoke. artichoke.

This mushroom mushroom is found in in woods, under oak, oak, chestnut and and beech beech trees trees and and sometimes under pines. pines. In ln the the Paris region region it it appears appears in in April and and is is sometimes very very plentiful plentiful in in the the autumn. The underneath may may be be white, yellow yellow or greenish greenish but but never red. The stem is white, white, yellow yellow or brown; itit should spots. The sbould never never have have any any red red spots. The flesh flesh which which is exposed to the air remains white and never becomes green; green; its taste is very pleasant, never never bitter. Very old old cipes, cèpes, with green tubes and damaged damaged by by slugs, should be avoided. pized mushroom; itit is, The The cipe cèpe is a highly prized is, however, a little some authorities, !ittle indigestible. indigestible. According According to to sorne authorities, its of other nutritive nutritive value, value, like like that that of other fungi, fungi, is is insignificant. insignificant. (See (See MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.)

uses this term. uses Whit€ is used used in in the preparation preparation of of some sorne brown White veal veal stock stock is glazing certain sauces (see SAUCE) or for glazing certain substances. substances. sauces clear BLOND DE VOLAILLD VOLAILLE -- A synon)4n synonym of of fond fond blond, c1ear

or thickened chioken chicken stock (see SAUCE, Brown sauces). sauces). Rich veal or chicken stocks are used for braising braising certain certain vegetables, ascelery, lettuces, etc. vegetables, such su ch as celery, artichoke hearts, lettuces,

BLONDIR lightly cooking BLONDIR -- The The operation operation of of!ightly cooking any any substance substance in butter, butter, oil, oil, or or other other fat. The term tenn faire faire blondir also also describes describes the the cooking of of a The .). butter mixture mixture which constitutes a light roux (ql (q.v.). flour and butter SANG - The blood of butchered animals animaIs has has no BLOOD. sANG part in nutrition but it has a number number of industrial uses (the sugar, the manufacture treatment of wines, clarification of sugar, manufacture treatment products, fertilisers, fertilisers, etc.). of coal products, The other blood) is The blood of the the pig pig (often (often mixed mixed with with other used to to make boudin (black pudding), pudding), and and the the blood blood of usd make boudin

rabbit, hare and chicken is used used to thicken the dishes called ca lied civets, which -- after the blood has been added -- must not be heated above (l58°F.), the temperature tempe rature above heated above 70°e. 70'C. (158"F.), above which coagulates and blood coagulates and the mixture curdles. curdles. Poland Blood soups are made in Sweden (svartsoppe) and Pol and (tchernina). BLOOD PUDDING BLOOD PUDDING -- See PORK.

goat found BLELTE -- Edible Edible goat BLEUE found very delicate, delicate, is which is is very mainly at Its meat, meat, which mainly at the Cape. Its the Cape.

BLUE GAZELLE. oAz,ELLE BLLIE GAZELLF,. GAZELLE cooked Iike like roebuck. BOAR -- See WILD BOAR.

Bombe Born be moulds: mould ngit, old-fashioned old-fashioned round mould /e/r, modem modern conical mould; right, left,

jar glass bottle bottle or jar BOCAL -- Wide-mouthed, Wide-mouthed, short-necked glass BOCAL pickling vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (gherkins, for for bottling bottling or or pickling vegetables, cherries, cherries, small capers, mixed vegetables, capers, small small onions, onions, mixed melons, etc.) etc.) or for preserving fruit in brandy.

in aa (Ioe cream). Ice cream cream made in BoMBE GLACÉE GLAcfE -- !ce cream). BOMBE BOMBE (Ice modem cookery cookery itit is In modern mould, hence hence its its name. name. In spherical mould, (See ICE CREAMS, Bombes.) mould. (See made in in aa conical mould. made

(lvon DU) (To have). CORPS has ou) -- One One says aa wine has BODY BODY (To coRps (AVOIR in the mouth mouth produces a sensation of plenitude in body when it produces and resulting from combination of strength and from aa harmonious combination flavour.

(Sweet, candy) not have have been been Sweets could could Dot BONBON (Sweet, candy) -- Sweets BONBON from the Orient by the Orient was brought brought from in Europe until until sugar sugar was made in is known known century. It is returning crusaders crusaders in the thirteenth century. the returning juices were were carried experiments with sugar-cane juices that the first experiments 1230. Before Before that that time, time, about A.D. A.D. 1230. in Sicily Sicily about Jews in out by the Jews juice and honey, and honey, in France France with with fruit fruit juice bonbons were were made made in bonbons or cinnamon. flavoured with amber or order to to In order very rapidly. rapidly. In The art art of making sweets sweets spread spread very of making The gentlemen great gentlemen well as as to court, as as weil to the great appeal to the the ladies at at court, appeal methods confectionery methods liking for sweetmeats, also had had aa liking sweetmeats, confectionery who also During variety of of sweets improved and and the the variety sweets increased. During were improved were was carried carried art was Renaissance tbis this art of the the Renaissance the brilliant brilliant epoch epoch of the gentlemen carried great gentlemen carried bonbonnières bonbonniDres further. Ali All the the great even further. even bonbon. ladies. These These bonbonto the the ladies. of sweets, which they they offered offered to sweets, which of with of them them set set with of art, art. sorne some of works of niires were were often often works nières precious stones. stones. precious great and aa great continued, and confectionery continued, The making making of of confectionery The variety of is available available today. today. of sweets sweets is variety principal groups groups as as in four four principal can be be c1assified classified in Sweets can Sweets pralines; (sugar-coated almonds) almonds) and and pralines; follows: dragées dragies (sugar-coated follows: pastilles. boiled sweets sweets and and pastilles. bonbons fondants; bonbons fondants: boiled preparations, now now factory-made, factory-made, are are Other confectionery confectionery preparations, Other caramels, also classed in the category of of bonbons, bonbons, such such as as caramels, classed in the category also paste, aa certain number of fruit paste, certain number of butterscotch, toffee, toffee, fruit butterscotch, preparations, crystallised marzipan preparations, fruit and and walnuts, walnuts, crystallised fruit marzipan into sugar cooked to to crack crack almonds and and hazelnuts hazelnuts dipped dipped into sugar cooked almonds degree. degree.

in the liquid in BOILING. ÉBULLITION the The movement of aa liquid fsuruflor.I -- The process of vaporisation. as aa result vaporisation. Boiling takes place when, as that of the of heating, the equal to to that the steam pressure is at least equal liquid. constant. While a liquid is boiling its its temperature remains constant. norm for The point of water has as the the nonn has been been taken as The boiling point (212'F.). This This 100"C. (212°F.). comparative pufposes, and at lOO°e. and stands at comparative purposes, of aa degree degree per temperature by about about aa third third of decreases by temperature decreases (108 yards) yards) of altitude. 100 m. m. (l08 cherry tree. BOIS - Variety offragrant of fragrant cherry BOIS DE SAINTE-LUCIE SAINTE-LUCIE-Variety

for BOLÉE used for earthenware, used brown earthenware, BOLEE -- Receptacle, usually brown also drinking This tenn term also and Brittany. This drinking cider cider in in Normandy and Thus itit isis applies in the receptacle. Thus the receptacle. applies to cider contained contained in to the the cider said: 'Boire une - 'To 'To drink bowlful of of drink aa bowlfuJ de cidre' cidre'said:'Boire une bolée bolie de cider'. cider'. BOLETUS (CCpe). BOLET about of fungi fungi of of which which about BoLEr -- Genus BOLETUS (Cèpe). Genus of 70 one is is an an expert, in France. France. Unless expert, the the 70 species are known Unless one species are known in gafely be gathered isis the only can safely the be gathered which can only boletus boletus mushroom which boletus de Bordeaux Bordeaux and and in France France as as cèpe cdpe de boleni edulis, edulis, known known in young. It tête cap, It has has aa bronze-col()Ured t?te de de nègre nigre when when itit is is young. bronze-coloured cap, grows, white underneath, As itit grows, white and and swollen stem. As underneath, on on aa white swollen stem. the overlap the the stem, stem, lighter brown, brown, begins to to overlap cap becomes the cap becomes aa lighter green, yellow. Later the tubes turn Later the turn green, the underneath becomes becomes yellow. the tubes 129 129

BON.CHRNTIBN BON-CHRÉTIEN BON-CHREffEN -- AA pear pear of of which which two two varieties varieties are are BON-CHRÉTIEN known; one one ripens ripens in in summer, summer, the the other other in in winter. winter. known; The flesh flesh of pear isis quite of this quite sweet this pear sweet but but aa little little gritty. gritty. ItIt The usually ealen eaten cooked. cooked. isis usually

MoELIT -- Flaky Flaky pastry pastry vol-ou-vent vol^au-vent filled filled while while hot with aa hot with MOELLE (q.v.) salpicon (q of beef beef bone-marrow bone-marrow blended blended with td,th Demi-glace Demi-glace salpicon .v.) of (se SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), or very concentrated or very concentrated veal veal stock. stock. sauce Flavour, ifif desired, desired, with with aa little little shallot shallot cooked cooked in in white white Flavour, wine until until ail all the liquid has the liquid has evaporated. evaporated. wine

BOFDON -- Type Type of of cheese cheese manufactured manufactured in in Neufchâtel Neufchdtel BONDON (See CHEESE.) in Normandy. Normandy. (See CHEF,SE.) in

BONING. DÉSOSSER onsossm. -- The process of The process of removing removing the the bones bones BONING. joint of from aa joint poultry or of meat, meat, poultry other food, food, whether whether cooked or other cooked from or raw, raw, which which con contains bones. or tains bones. The boning poultry requires boning of of raw raw meat meat or or poultry requires skill, skill, since since The the bones bones should should be be taken taken out out without without damaging damaging the meat. the meaL the

BOllE. os os -- Any Any of of the thE ,eparate parts of sQparate parts of aa vertebrale vertebrate BO/lt'E. skeleton, fonning forming iL~ its framework. framework. Bones Bones are are composed composed of of aa skeleton, cartilaginous substance substance impregnated impregnated with with calcareous calcareous salts. salts. cartilaginous By boiling boiling in in water, water, especially especially under pressure, they under pressure, produce they produce By gelatine. Bones, Bones, added added to give itit aa gelatinous to stock, stoch give gelatinous concongelatine. sistency. sistency. Uses of of boues bones and and meal parins -- After meat panngs prolonged cooking, After prolonged cooking, Uses bones retain retain aa considerable juices and considerable qu;mtity quantity of of juices gelatini and geJatine bones which can can be be extracted, extracted, fiavoured flavoured with with vegetables, vegetableg seasoned, seisoned, wbich and used used for for soup. soup. and Boil down down this this stock stock until until itit isis transformed transformed into into meat meat Boil jelly which keeps keeps weil well and and can can be be used used for for strengthening strengthening jelly which soups and and sauces. sauces. soups juices, the To extract extract ail all the the jnices, the bones bones should should then then be be broken To up as as small possible. This small as as possible. This second second stock stock isis not not an an up proposition, unless economical proposition, unless itit can can be be done done without without economical using any any further further fuel, fuel, for for instance, instance, if if one one has permanent has aa permanent using fire at one's disposaI. at one's disposal. fixe

BONITO. BONITE BoNrrE -- Small Small species of tunny, species of tunny, commonly commonly BONITO. found in in the the Mediterranean Mediterranean and and on on the the Atlantic Atlantic coast, coast, found where French French fishermen germon.It fishermen also also cali call itit germon. important an important where lt isis an fish on on the North American Pacific the North Pacific coast prepared in coast and in and is is prepared fish (tuna). the same same way way as as tunny tunny (tuna). the BONI\E-DAME -- Common Common name name for for orach orach in in France. France. BON/It'E-DAME BONhIES-MARBS -- Vineyard Vineyard of of the Cdte de the Côte de Nuits Nuits that that BONNES-MARES produces noted noted red red wines. wines. 11 partly in It isis situated situated partly in the comthe comproduces Morey-Saint-Denis and and partly in in that ihat of of Chambollemune of Morey-Saint-Denis (C6te-d'Or), and Musigny (Côte-d'Or), and has right to legal right has the the legal to aa special special Musigny (See BURGUNDY.) appe llation. (See BURGUNDY.) appella/ion. pumpkin. BONNET-TURC -- Variety of of pumpkin. BONNET-TURC

BONVALET cake, almost almost identical with the Olle one calI called BONV ALET -- This cake, cd was created pastry-cook, Jules created in in 1869 1869 by by aa pastry-cook, Beauvilliers was Leroy, who who was (See was in charge of of the Maison Machin. Machin. (See the Maison in charge Leroy, BEAwTLLTERS.) BEA UVILLlERS.)

BONE-MARROW. MOELLE MoELLE -- A f,atty substance A soft, soft, fatty BONE-MARROW. contained in in marrow-bones. marrow-bones. contained Spinal marrow marrow is part of is that that part of the the central central nervous nervous system Spinal contained in in the the spinal spinal cord. cord. The The spinal spinal marrow of meat sold sold eontained marrow ofmeat in sections sections is (see OFFAL called amourette amourette (see OFFAL or VARIETY or V in is called ARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Beef bone-marrow. MOELLE MoELLE DE Cut the marrow marrow in Beef bone-marrow. DE BoEuF BOEUF - Cut in poach (using aa knife thick slices (using dipped in water). Poaeh in boiling boiling water). thick slices knife dipped without salt water, water, and and drain. drain. This This is is used used to without boiling boiling in in salt garnish steaks. steaks. garnish Beef bone-marrow, drained, is Beef bone-marrow, diced, diced, poached poachcd and and drained, is also used in various sauces. used in various brown brown sauces. Bone-narrov canap6s. CANAPÉS clNnprs A À ra LA uoerm MOELLE -- Made Bone-marrow canapés. from from the the marrow marrow of of the the large large marrow-bone marrow-bone cooked in in the pt-au-fat pot-ou-feu or or petite petite marmite marmite (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). These canapis served in These canapés can can be be served in two two ways: ways: 1. L Spread Spread the the marrow marrow on on slices slices of of toast. toast Season Season with with salt and and freshly frcshly ground ground pepper. peppeL 2. 2. Spread Spread a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of marrow marrow (poached (poached and and well weIl drained) drained) on on slices slices of of toast. toasL Decorate Decorate with with strips strips of of marrow, marrow, poached poached in in salt salt water water and and drained, drained, or or seasoned seasoned with with pepperpeppercorns corns ground ground in in a a mill. milL Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs tossed tossed in in butter butter and and drained. drained. Put Put the the canapis canapés in in the the oven oYen for for aa few few moments. moments. Bone-marrow Bone-marrow fritots frilols. FRrrors,i, FRITOTS À ra LA rraonrr.u MOELLE -- Cut Cut into into thick thick slices. together in in pairs pairs with with forcemeat forcemeat (preferably (preferably slices. Stick Stick them them together ità gratin), gratin), and and steep steep for for 20 20 minutes minutes in in oil, oil. lemon lemon juice, juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Dip in Dip them them in aa light light batter, bat ter, deep-fry deep-fry in in very very hot hot fat. faL Drain, Drain, dry dry in in aa cloth, cloth, and and garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Salpicon of bone-marrow. booe-marrow. sAI,prcoN SALPICON DB DE MoELLE MOELLE -- Dice Dice the the Salpicon of marrow marrow and and poach poach without without bringing bringing to to the the boil. boiL Blend Blend with with (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), flavoured flavoured with with shallot shallot which which has has been been cooked cooked in in white white wine wine until until all aIl the the liquid liquid has has evaporated. evaporated. This This is is used used as as aa filling filling or or garnish garnish for for flaky fiaky pastry pastry vol-auvol-auvent vent and and canapis, canapés, fried fried bread bread (in (in fancy fancy shapes), shapes), coddled coddled or or poached poached eggs, cggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, large large mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. Bone-manow À r,c LA Monrrn MOELLE -- Sauce Sauce served served Bone-marrow sauce..sAUcE sauce. SAUCE A with or saut6ed sautéed fish, fish, and and poached poached or or coddled coddled wilh meat, meat, grilled grilled or eggs. eggs. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) Small SmalJ vol-au-vent vol-au-vent with witb bone-marrow. bone-marrow. roucrmrs BOUCHÉES A À rl LA

BOOPS. BocuE Mediterranean fish which two specics species BOOPS. BOGUE -- Mediterranean fish of which are knowil" known: the the common common boops boops which which reaches 35 cm. cm. (14 are reaehes 35 inches) in length, and bogue saupe. and the the bogue inches) in This fish, fish, which which can can be la meunière, meuniire, and and This be served fried, fried, àd la poached, and which is also used bouillabaisse, is poached, and used in bouillabaisse, is remarkremarkable of its colour -- olive-yellow olive-yellow on able for for the the brightness brightness of iL~ colour the back and and silver on on the belly. BORAGE. BORAGE. BouRRAcr{E BOURRACHE -- Herbaceous perennial plant. plant. Its lts flowers some regions of France as as fritters. fiowers are are cooked cooked in in sorne fritter,. The young young leaves Ieaves are used for flavouring fiavouring salads, iced drinks, drinks, herbal herbai tea and vegetables, vegetables, and also aiso for flavouring fiavouring claret cup.

BORAX BORAX or or SODIUM SODIUM PERBORATE. soRArE BORATE

-

DE souDn SOUDE-

This This was sometimes sometimes fraudulently used, used, under various names names such such ars as 'preservative 'preservative powder', powder', 'antiferment', 'antiferment', etc., etc., for preserving butter, wine, etc. preserving meat, fish, butter, Its lts use use was forbidden in in France bv by an order of of 14 14 Julv. July, 1891. 1891.

BORD-DE-PLAT BORD-DE-PLAT - Small Small utensil utensil used used in in the the kitchen to 10 protect proteet the the border border of of a dish on which food food in in sauce sauce is being being served. served.

BORDEALIX BORDEAUX - Gourmands, Gourmands, connoisseurs connoisseurs of of good things things to 10 eat, and and gourmets, gourmets, experts in in the the subtle subtle art art of of wine wine tasting, lasting, hold particular regard. regard. hold this this town town in in particular Bordeaux, Bordeaux, whose whose wines wines and food food were were being being sung long long ago by by the the poet poet Decimus Decimus Magnus Magnus Ausonius, Ausonius, born born in in l.o. A.D. 310, 3 J0, is is the the birthplace birthplace of of one one of of the the greatest greatest men men in in French French classical c1assical cookery, cookery, Dugl6r6. Dugléré. He He had had for for long long been been in in charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Cafi Café Anglaas Anglais in in Paris, Paris, which which at at that that time lime was was frequented frequented by by kings, kings, princes princes and and all ail the the most most illustrious illustrious gastronomes gastronomes of of Europe. Europe. Culinary Culiosry specialities specialities -- Crayfish Crayfish dà la la bordelaise; bordelaise; lamprey lamprey with wilh leeks; /eeks; mussels musse/s dà hla bordelaise; bordelaise; escargots escargots dà In la Caudiran; Caudéran; jried whitebait; whitebait; sausages sausages with with oysters; oysters; entrec|te entrecôte d à la la fried bordelaise; bordelaise; leg leg of of lamb lamb d à la la ficelle; ficelle; chicken chicken sauti sauté d à la la bordelaise; bordelaise; Pauillac Pauillac lamb lamb d à la la persillade; persillade; foie foie gras gras with with grapes; grapes; terrine terrine de de Nirac; Nérac; pdtd pâté de de foie joie gras gras au au truffes; truffes; cApes cèpes 130 130

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX

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Map Map of the Bordeaux Bordeaux wine-growing wine-growing district district of the

Bordeaux range of of wines: wines: very comprehensive comprehensive range Bordeaux bas has aa very red, from from the the white, most liqueur-like; liqueurJike; red, white, from from the driest to to the the most the driest (the Englishman's 'claret') to lightest most full-bodied. full-bodied. lightest (the the most to the Englishman's 'claret') Besides 'generic' appellations of white white and and appellations of Besides the the so-called so-called 'generic' red clairet and and red Bordeaux, Bordeaux clairet Bordeaux, Bordeaux Bordeaux supérieur, sup6rieur, Bordeaux Bordeaux produced ail region, the the Bordeaux rosé, all over over the the region, ros6, which which are are produced in their great great divisions into regions, regions, which which in their divisions are are sub-divided sub-divided into tum divided into into vineyards vineyards and and appellations. appellations. turn are are divided Médoc. 15 km. km. (9(9 land approximately Midoa AA long long strip of land approximately 15 strip of miles) and of the Garonne and miles) broad, on the left banks banks of the Garonne broad, situated situated on the left the Blanquefort inin the the south south to to the Gironde, Gironde, extending from Blanquefort extending from Pointe are two distinct in the There are two distinct Pointe de de Graves Graves in the north. north. There

àd la garlic; pancakes àd la sautt with with garlic; la bordelaise; bordelaise; aubergine aubergine sauté la bordelaise; pastry-cooks of bordelaise; and made by and famous famous cakes cakes made by the the pastry-cooks of Bordeaux. Excellent cheeses produced throughout region. cheeses are are produced throughout the the region. Wines tu rai regions great viticul regions of of viticultural Wines -- Bordeaux Bordeaux is is one of the the great one of France, The wine wine wines. The France, producing sorne of the world's best best wines. some of the world's district within the the contained within district of Bordeaux isis completely completely contained of Bordeaux borders mainly in parts Iying lying in the the parts borders of of the the Gironde Gironde département, dlpartement,mainly along Garonne and and along the rivers Gironde, Gironde, Garonne the course course of of the the rivers Dordogne. for more than Dordogne. It more than It has known and and esteemed esteemed for has been been known two poet Ausone years. Even sang the the two tbousand thousand years. Even the Ausone sang the Latin Latin poet praises praises of of these these wines. wines.

131 r3l

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX not-so-good years years but but capable capable of perfection inin of maturing maturing to to perfection not-so-good great vintage years. White vintage years. the great White liqueur-like liqueur-like wines, wines, very very the similar to to Sauternes, Sauternes, are produced in are produced in the the south of the region. south of similar the region. The dry dry white white wines wines of of Graves Graves make make worth worthy companions y companions The oysters, seafood, to oysters, seafood, fish fish and poached or and shellfish, grilled or shellfish, poached or griiied or to in delicate delicate sauces. sauces. The The red red wines wines serve purpose as serve the the same same purpose in as those of of Médoc. M6doc. They, They, too, (See classificatoo, age age magnificently. magnificently. (See those classification GRAVES.) GRAVES.) tion Sauternes-Barsac and and Cérons. CCrons. These These wine wine districts districts form form aa Sauternes-Barsac sort of of enclave enclave in in the the Graves Graves region region north north and sort and west west of of produce white, Langon. They They produce white, liqueur-like liqueur-like wines wines the Langon. the colour colour and tas taste of honey, honey, and and have have aa flowery flowery bouquet, greatly bouquet, greatly and te of esteemed by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These These wines wines are product of are the the product esteemed of the vinification vinification of of over-ripe over-ripe grapes grapes which which are are almost almost in in aa the crystallised state picked, owing state when when picked, owing to to the the action action of crystallised of aa microscopic fungus fungus called 'botrytis', which called 'botrytis', which encourages encourages the microscopic the sugar to concentrate in to concentrate in the grape. Sauternes the grape. Sauternes wines wines are are sugar usually consumed consumed as as dessert dessert wines, wines, but but real real connoisseurs connoisseurs usuaJly like to to drink drink them gras, fish them with with foie fish in in sweet sweet sauces like sauces and and foie gras, parslied cheeses. certain parslied cheeses. certain Loupiac and and Saint-Croix-du-Mont, Saint-Croix-du-Mont, situated on the situated on Loupiac the opposite side of the picturesque slopes side of the Garonne Garonne on on picturesque opposite slopes overoverlooking the the river, river, produce white white wines wines similar similar to looking to those those of of (See classilication Sauternes. (See classification tables.) Sauternes. Saint-Emilion. This This wine wine district district isis situated situated on on the Saint-Émilion. the right right bank of of the the Dordogne Dordogne east east of of the the town town of of Libourne, Libourne, and bank and extends into into the the commune of of the the same same name name and extends and several several neighbouring areas. neighbouring Also worth worth rhentioning mentioning are 'satellite' appellations are the the 'satellite' Also appellations such as as Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, which which have such the right havJthe to affix affix the 'Saint-Emilion' to the appellation appellatlon 'Saint-Émilion' to to their their own. own. Two be singled singled out: those of the 'slopes' which the 'slopes' types of wine can be and more full-bodied, full-bodied, and and those of the 'gravel', are rounder and the 'grave!', which are are sappy sappy and and more tannic. Both Both have have the which more tannic. the same same rubiness and and fullness fullness which make them ideal with red meat. rubiness meat, game, meat and and sauce dishes, and and the cheeses. game, appellatians contrôlées cont|lies of Saint-Émilion Saint-nmilion are: The appellations are: Saint-The Emilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Class6, Saint-Émilion-GrandSaint-Emilion-GrandÉmilion-Premier-Grand-Cru-Classé, Cru-Class6, Saint-Émilion-Grand-Cru, Saint-Emilion-Grand-Crq Saint Émilion. Cru-Classé, Emilion. 'Satellite' appellations: appe llations: Lussac-Saint-Émilion, Lussac-Saint-Emilion, Montagne'Satellite' MontagneSaint-Emilion, Parsac-Saint-Emilion, Saint-Émilion, Parsac-Saint-Émilion, Puisseguin-SJintPuisseguin-SaintÉmilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Émilion, Sablés-SaintSa-bl6s-SaintEmilion, Saint-Georges-Saint-Emilion, Emilion. Émilion. Pomerol. This wine wine district district begrns begins at at the the very very gates gates of Libourne. Libourne. A A ferruginous ferruginous subsoil with a pebbly topsoil topsoil gives rich, rich, sappy, sappy, full-bodied wines wines with with a pronounced pronounced personality personality powerful bouquet and aapowerful bouquet - perfect perfect companions companions for red meat, meat, meat in sauce, game (even (even big big game) and cheese. cheese.

A Bordeaux Bordeaux vineyard (French Govemmenl vineyafi, (French Govemment Tourisl Ofice) Tourist Office) A

divisions within within the the region: region: Bas-Médoc Bas-M6doc in in the the north; north; divisions Haut-M6doc in in the the south south where where the the communes communes of great of the the great Haut-Médoc appellations of of Margaux, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Pauillac, SaintSaintappellations Estbphe, Moulis Moulis and and Listrac Listrac are are situated. situated. Estèphe, M6doc wines wines are generous, and are tannic tannic and and generous, and mature Médoc admirably. They They are are superbly superbly elegant elegant wines wines with with aa fine fine admirably. bouquet and and aroma, aroma, and and make make excellent excellent accompaniments accompaniments bouquet all types to all roast and grilled meats. and grilled of roast meats. Those Those of of Moulis, to types of Moulis, Listrac and and Saint-Estèphe Saint-Estbphe are are best drunk with with red meat and and Listrac best drunk red meat game; of Margaux, Margaux, Saint-Julien Saint-Julien and and Pauillac with Pauillac with game; those those of (See accompanying white meat and lamb. lamb. (See accompanylng table table for white meat and for the classification of these classification of these wines.) wines.) The Chdteau-Haut-Brion in commune of of Pessac The Château-Haut-Brion in the the commune Pessac is is not actually in in Graves, only exexnot actually in M6doc Médoc but but in Graves, and and is is the the only ception the firs t grow th category. ception in in thejirst growth category. Graves. The Graves region of M6doc, Graves. The Graves region lies lies to to the the south south of Médoc, encircling encircling the the town town of of Bordeaux Bordeaux and and extending extending along along the the left bank of of the the Garonne Garonne to to the the region region of of Sauternes. Sauternes. It Il left bank produces produces red'sappy'wines red 'sappy' wines closely closely related related to to those those of of M6doc, Médoc, good quality of lasting of good lasting quality and and with with a a bouquet bouquet reminiscent reminiscent of of the the resin resin and and undergrowth undergrowth of of the the nearby nearby pine pine forests; forests; aristocratic aristocratic dry dry white white wines, wines, also also sappy, sappy, with with a a superbly superbly elegant elegant bouquet bouquet and and taste, taste, pleasant pleasant when when drunk drunk young young in in the

Dordogne Dordogne River River and andvineyards vineyardsof ofSaint-Andr6-de-Cubzac Snint-André-de-Cubzac

r32 132

BORDEAUX BORDEAUX Second Secondgrowth growlh

Mouton-Rothschild Mou ton-Rothschild

Rauzan-S6g1a..... :.. . . . . . Rauzan-Ségla ........... .'. . ...... . Rauzan-Gassies Rauzan-Gassies ..................... L6oville-Lascases. Léoville- Lascases ................... L6oville-Poyferr6 Léoville-Poyferré ................... . L6oville-Barton Léoville-Barton ..................... Durfort-Vivens Durfort-Vivens .. .................... Lascombes Lascombes ............. . . , ........ Gruaud-Larose-Sarget Gruaud-Larose-Sarget .......... . ... Gruaud-Larose Gruaud-Larose ..................... . Brane-Cantenac. Brane-Cantenac .................... Pichon-Longueville Pichon-Longueville ................. Pichon-Longueville-Lalande Pich on- Longueville- Lalande .......... Ducru-Beaucaillou Ducru-Beaucaillou ................. . Cos Cos d'Estournel. d'Estournel .................... Montrose Montrose .........................

. . . . . . . . . . . . . .

growth Third Third growth

Kirwan Kirwan .......... . ..... . .......... . . Issan Issan .......... . .............. . ... Lagrange Lagrange ......................... . Langoa-Barton Langoa-Barton .................... Giscours .................... . ..... Giscours .. Malescot Saint-Exupéry Saint-Exup6ry.............. Malescot . Cantenac-Brown Can tenac- Brown ................... . Boyd ..................... Boyd . . . . . ... Palmer ........................... Palmer Lagune ........ " .............. La Lagune La Desmirail ................. . ....... Desmirail Calon-Sdgur..... Calon-Ségur ....................... Ferribre ........................... Ferrière . d'Alesme-Becker ........... Marquis d'Alesme-Becker Marquis

grapes at Pressing Pressing grapes at Saint-Emilion Saint-Emilion Ofrce) Tourist Office) (French (French Government Goverrunmt Tourisl

wines; Pomerol wines; the Pomerol of the There classification of official classification no official There isis no place. Château-Pétrus given first first place. usually given Chiteau-P6trus isis usually Pomerol, de Pomerol, 'Satellite' Lalande de of Pomerol: Pomerol: Lalande appellations of 'satellite' appellations de and 'Lalande de appellatian'Lalande (which has the appellation right to to the the right has the N6ac (which and Néac Pomerol'); red wines. wines. are red these are of these all of Pomerol'); ail rich Other Bordeaux isis rich of Bordeaux district of wine district The wine appellations. The Other appellations. glowingin the strong strong glowing include the which include wines, which appellation wines, other appellation in other of west of wines Canon-Fronsac, west and Canon-Fronsac, Fronsac and de Fronsac C6tes de of the the Côtes wines of the andthe Libourne Garonne; and of the the Garonne; bank of right bank on the the right Libourne on Gironde, Bourgeois of the theGironde, bank of right bank onthe the right Blayais on the Blayais and the Bourgeois and opposite Médoc. M6doc. opposite -Between triangle thetriangle Between the Dordogne,ininthe and the the Dordogne, Garonne and the Garonne the formed situated the rivers, isissituated two rivers, of the the two confluenoeof the confluence by the formed by large region covets,aalarge appellat.ioncovers The appellation 'Entre-deux-Mers'. The regton 'Entre-deux-Mers'. mellow, but but production bemellow, used totobe which used wine which whitewine prbduction of of white demands which currentdemands meetthe tlecurrent drier totomeet anddrier vinified drier drieiand wni*r isisvinified have whichhave of good redwines wineswhich verygoodred aresorne some very Thereare oftoday. today.There the Bordeaux andBordeaux Bordeatrx and appellationsBordeaux theappellations right toto the theright the supérieur. arethe there are geographical region reeron there samegeographical thesame sup6riJur.InIn the Premières, Vayres, GravesdedeVayres, theGraves Bordeaux, the deBordeaux, C6tesde Premibres, Côtes Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire Dordogne theDordogne borderofofthe onthe theborder and,on Bordeaux-Saint-Macaire and, département, Saint-Foy-La-Grande dipar t ement,Saint-Foy-La-Grande. CLASSIFICATION WINES MEDOCWINES THEGREAT GREATMÉDOC OFTHE CLASSIFICATIONOF First COMMUNE coMMUNE Firstgrowth Château-Lafite . Pauillac Pauillac . Chiteau-Lafite...................... Château-Margaux .................. . Margaux Margaux Château-Latour .................... . Pauillac Pauillac Chflteau-Latour. (Graves) Château-Haut-Brion ................ . Pessac Pessac(Graves)

growth

. Chiteau-Margaux . Chdteau-Haut-Brion

133 133

. . . . . . . . . . . . .

Pauillac Pauillac Margadx Margaux Margaux Margaux Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Sain t -J ulien Cantenac Cantenac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Julien Saint-J ulien Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe

Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Labarde Labarde

Margaux Margaux Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Cantenac Ludon Ludon Margaux Margaux Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Margaux Margaux Margaux Margaux

growth Fourth growth Fourth Saint-Pierre- Sevaistre ........ .. ... . . . Saint-Pierre-Sevaistre Saint-Pierre- BontemPs .............. . Saint-Pierre-Bontemps Branaire-Ducru. BranaireDucru .................... . Talbot ........................... " Talbot Duhart-Milon ...... .................. . Duhart-Milon Poujet ........................... . Poujet Carnet .................... . Tour Carnet LaTour La Rochet....................... . Lafon Rochet Lafon Beychevelle ........................ . Beychevelle Le Prieuré Prieur6 ........................ . Le Terme.................. . deTerme Marquisde Marquis

Cantenac Cantenac Saint-Laurent SaintLaurent Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Cantenac Cantenac Margaux Margaux

growth Fdth growlh Fifth Pontet-Canet.... Pontet-Canet ............. . ........ Batailley .......................... Batailley Grand-Puy-Lacostc.................. Grand-Puy-Lacoste Grand-Puy-Ducasse ................ Grand-Puy-Ducasse Bages. LynchBages Lynch ....................... Moussas .................... LynchMoussas Lynch Dauzac... '" ..................... Dauzac ..... PhiliPPe............. Mouton-BaronPhilippe Mouton-Baron Tertre ......................... LeTertre Le Haut-Bages ................. . ..... Haut-Bages P6desclaux ........................ Pédesclaux Belgrave ., ........................ Belgrave Camensac.............. . .......... Camensac CosLa bory ....................... Cos-Labory Milon....................... ClercMilon Clerc Bages...................... CroizetBages Croizet Cantemerle............ . ........... Cantemerle

Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac PauilIac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Labarde Labarde Pauillac Pauillac Arsac Arsac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Laurent Saint-Estbphe Saint-Estèphe Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Pauillac Macau Macau

. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .

Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Saint-Julien Pauillac Pauillac

BORDELAISE (A LA) BORDELAISE (À LA) CLASSIFICATION OF THE SAUTER.NES WINES CLASSIFICA TION OF THE SA UTERNES WINES First great growth coMMUNE First great growth COMMUNE Chdteau d'Yquem Sauternes Château d'Yquem .................. . Sauternes First growth First growth Chiteau-LaTourBlanche... Château-La Tour Blanche ........... . ChAteau-Peraguey Château-Peraguey .................. . Chdteau-Rayne-Vigneau.... Château-Rayne-Vigneau ............ . Chdteau-Suduiraut Château-Suduiraut ................. . Chdteau-Coutet. . Château-Coutet .................... . Chiteau-Climens Château-Climens . Chdteau-Guiraud................... . Château-Guiraud .................. . Chflteau-Rieussec Château-Rieussec .................. . Chdteau-Rabaud-Sigalas . ... Château-Rabaud-Sigalas ............ . Ch0teau-Rabaud-Promis .... . Château-Ra baud-Promis ............ .

Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes preignac Preignac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Fargues Fargues Bommes Bommes Bommes Bommes

Second growth Second growth Ch6teau-Myrat .. Château-Myrat .................... . Ch0teau-Doisy-Dubroca ... . Château-Doisy-Dubroca ............ Chdteau-Doisy-Dadne . Château-Doisy-Daëne .............. . Ch0teau-Doisy-V6drines .... Château-Doisy-Védrines ............ . Chdteau-Arche .. Château-Arche .................... . Ch0teau-Arche-Lafaurie.... Château-Arche-Lafaurie ............ . Chdteau-Filhot . Château-Filhot .................... . Chdteau-Broustet Château-Broustet .................. . Chdteau-Nairac. . Château-Nairac .................... . Ch0teau-Caillou . Château-Caillou ................... . Chdteau-Suau... Château-Suau " ................... . Ch6teau-de Malle Château-de Malle .................. . Chdteau-Romer-Lafon Château-Romer-Lafon .............. . Ch0teau-Lamothe-Bergey .. . Château-Lamothe-Bergey ........... . Chdteau-Lamothe-Espagnet . Château-Lamothe-Espagnet ......... .

Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac Barsac preignac Preignac Farfues Fargues Sauiernes Sauternes Sauternes Sauternes

sfA.rrLr.EsÀ AL'ANCIENNE l',q,NcrcNNn- -Fill Filla abuttered butteredring ringmould mouldwith BÉATILLES witha a vealororchicken chickenMousse/ineforcemeat Mousseline forcemeat(see (seeFORCEMEATS) FOnCEMEATS) veal poachslowly andpoach slowlyininthe theoyen oveninina abain-marie (q.v.).Wh bain-marie(q.v.). When and en cooked,allow allowtotostand standfor fora afew fewminutes minutesfor forthe theforcemeat forcemeattoto cooked, settle. settle. Turnthe thering ringout outonto ontoa adish, dish,and andfi.!l fillthe thecentre centrewith witha a Tum ragofitofoflambs' lambs'sweetbreads, sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs combsand andkidneys, kidneys, ragoût trufresand andmushrooms, mushrooms,mixed mixedintna aVelouté (iee Veloutdsauce sauce(see truffles SAUCE) flavoured flavouredwith withMadeira-laced Madeira-lacedTruffle (see Truffiefumet SAUCE) fumet(see FUMET).Gamish Garnishwith withslivers sliversofoftruffle truffieheated heatedininconFUMET). concentratedmeat meatstock. stock. centrated Ringfor forbrains brainsài lalapiémontaise. pi6montaise.BORDURE nonounsDE DECERVELLE cERVELLE Ring pfuoNrArse - - Butter m PIÉMONTAISE Butter aaring ringmould mouldand andfill ÀALA fillititwith with put Risotto pidmontaise(see (seeRICE). RICE). Put the themould mouldininthe the Risotto àdlalapiémontaise ovenfor foraafew fewminutes minutestotoheat heatititthoroughly. thoroughly. oyen Turnout outand andfill fillthe centrewith thecentre withescalopes escalopes of ofCalves' Calves'brains brains Turn (seeOFF OFFAL oTVARIETY MEATS)mixed mixedwith with AL or VARIETY MEATS) àdlapoulette la poulette (see slicedmushrooms. mushrooms. Decorate Decorate the thebrains brainswith with thin thin slices slicesof of sliced truffiesheated heated in inconcentrated concentratedmeat meatstock. stock. truffies Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin. BORDURE BoRDT.JRE D'OEUFS D'oEUFsBRILLATEgg BRTLLATsAvARrN Fill aa mould mould with with Veal (see Veal forcemeat SAVARIN Fill forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) and poach inin the and poach theoyen oven in in aabain-marie FORCEMEATS) bain-marie (q.v.). Turn Turn out out and and fill fill the the centre centre with with eggs which have eggswhich (q.v.). have been been scrambled with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and anddiced diced truffies. truffies. Sprinkle scrambled Sprinkle grated Parmesan, with grated Parmesan, pour pour aa little little melted melted butter butter over, with over, and and brown the the top top in in aa very very hot hot oyen. oven. brown Egg ring ring ài la princesse. BORDURE pRrNcEssE -_ la princesse. BoRDURE D'OEUFS D'oEUFs PRINCESSE Egg Prepare as as Egg Egg ring ring Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, using using scrambled Prepare scrambled eggs eggs with asparagus asparagus tips tips and and truffles. truffies. Scrambled Scrambled eggs with eggs with with craycrayfish, shrimps, shrimps, fruits de mer, mer, mushrooms, mushroomg truffles, fish, trufles, tomatoes, fruits de tomatoe;, etc. can can be prepared in be prepared in the the same same way. way. etc. Cream fish (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) isis used Cream fish forcemeat used for forcemeat (see for Lenten entrées. entries. Lenten Fish forcemeat forcemeat ring ring with with various various garnishes. garnishes BORDURE Fish BoRDURE DE DE polssoNs - These FARcE DE DE POISSONS rings, also also Lenten Lenten fare, FARCE fare, are are made made - These rings, of Cream Cream fish (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) of of of pike, fish forcemeat forcemeat (see whiting or or other otherfish, whiting fish, moulded and baked as described above. above. They are are filled with with a ragoût ragoitt of fish fish or shellfish, the followThey ing being particularly suitable for the the purpose: Ragoût particularly sui table for ing being Ragofit of of shrimp, nantua nantua or fruity o, normande normand" sauce; fruits de de mer in shrimp, sauce; oysters oystrrc and oid mushrooms veloutd sauce; mussels mussels àd la poulette; shrimps; mushrooms in in velouté shrimps; slic-es uimi or àd l'américaine; of lobster lobs ter or sp@ spiny Iobster lobs ter d à la crème s/ices of l,amdricaine; puries fish and mushrooms. fish purées or salpicons salpicons with truffies truffles and Ring of frogs' frogs' legs legs vert-pr6 vert-pré -- BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE GRENOUILLES Ring of cRENourLLEs vrnr-pnf VERT-PRÉ - Prepare Prepare the frogs' legs as described described in the recipe for.Aspic offrogs' legs legs dà I'ancienne l'ancienne (see (see ASpIC), ASPIC), coating coating thern them for Aspic offrogs' only only with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with jelly. jelly. Prepare Prepare a a jelly jelly ring ring decorated decorated with circlets of truffies. truffles. Season Season cooked, cooked, well-drained well-drained asparagus asparagus tips tips with with oil, oil, yineg3l, salt and and pepper. pepper. Turn Tum the the ring ring ou!out, and and put put the the vinegar, salt frogs' on iq it, overlapping overlapping them them sliglitly. slightly. Fill Fill the the centre centre frogs' legs legs on with !t" the asparagus asparagus tips tips blended blended with with concentrated concentrated aspic aspic SF jelly. Decorate with with truffie truffle dipped dipped in in jelly. jelly. jelly. Decorate

B-O_RDELAISE (A LA) - Culinary term which applies to BORDELAISE (À LA) - Culinary term which applies to different dishes in four categories. The first is chariiterised different dishes in four categories. The first is characterised by the sauce bordelaise, vvitth white or red wine and marrowby the sauce bordelaise, with white or red wine and marrowbone fat; the second by the addition of cipes; the third by bone fa t; the second by the addition of cèpes; the third by mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish oi artichokes and mirepoix; and the fourth by a garnish of artichokes and potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. potatoes. Other ingredients can be added. This term also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), This terrn also applies to various sweet courses (desserts), cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cipes d ln b)ordetaisi'; cakes, etc. (See MUSHROOMS, Cèpes à la bordelaise; CRAYFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) CRA YFISH, MIREPOIX, SAUCE.) BORDER @ing). BoRDURE - Dishes that are served in the BORDER (Ring). BORDURE - Dishes that are served in the form of a ringn which can be fonn of a ring, which can be made made of of quenelle quenelle or or other other forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot forcemeat, rice, semolina and duchess potatoes for hot jelly, dishes; custards etc. dishes; jelly, custards and and creams, creams, rice rice di,impdratrice, à l'impératrice, etc. for cold and sweet dishes. for cold and sweet dishes. Borders can be made of small cro0tons of bread, cut into Borders can be made of small croûtons of bread, cut into vqigus shapes and frled in butter, fixed to the iniide edge various shapes and fried in butter, fixed to the inside edge gf the gerving of the serving dish dish with with aa mixture mixture of of flour flour and and egg egg whiie. white. Fancyjelly shapes can be similarly used for cold diif,es, and Fancy jelly shapes can be similarly used for cold dishes, and vegetable borders for hot dishes. vegetable borders for hot dishes. (border) Rfug of Hatilles béatilles ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BoRDURE BORDURE DE DE Ring (border) of

Fluted Flutedand aodplain plainring ringmoulds moulds(Deiiilerin. (Dehillerin.phot. Phot. Larousse\ Larousse)

r34 134

BORDER BORDER

(furo6s€) Piping aa border border of of duchess duchess potatoes (Larousse) Piping

(Ldrousre) potatoes (Larousse) Border of of duchess polatoes Border

ring with with various various garnishes. forecemeat ring Veal or or chicken chicken forecemeat Veal as Prepare as - Prepare biatilles recipe for for Ring Ring of béa I'ancienne. the recipe tilles àd l'ancienne. indicated in the Fill the centre with with aa dish. Fill the centre ring out out onto onto aa dish. Turn the the ring Tum poulette, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and garnish: veal veal amourettes amourettes àd la la poulette, gamish: veloati sauce, sauce, lambs' chicken in in velouté lambs' of chicken la crème, uime, slices slices of kidneys àit la poulette, veal veal or or chicken chickm hash hash àd ta la or calves' calves' brains brains àd la la poulette, or sauce, white or or brown brown sauce, mixed salpicons salpicons in in white crime, simple or mixed simple or crème, with purte of velouti sauce, scntce, eggs eggs scrambled scrambled with in velouté of chicken chickm in purée with butter or fresh vegetables vegetables dressed dressed with butter or various ingredients, fresh with butter or vegetables blended blended with butter or of vegetables macidaine of cream, macédoine cream, crime. cream, mushrooms mushrooms àh la ln crème. cream,

BoRDURE DE Game forcemeat forcemeat ring with various various garnishes. BORDURE

DE VEAU, DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE DE FARCE FARCE DE vEAU, DE BoRDURE DE BORDURE

(see Game forcemeat forceineat (see made of Game pur6es or salwith purées FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled with FORCEMEATS). The rings are filled SAUCE). picons game in White or Brown of game Brown sauce (see SAUCE). picons of poMMEs DE DE TERRE Duchess TERRE -- Duchess Potato ring. ring. aonouRn BORDURE DE DE POMMES Potato potato mixture (see POTATOES) through aa forcingPOT A TOES) piped through hand into aa ring. bag onto a buttered dish, or moulded by hand covered with Fill the centre cooked fish covered Fill the centre with with slices slices of cookedfish Mornay sauce; slices of various shellfish; hashes hashes of various etc. in butter, butter, etc. kinds of meat; vegetables cooked in grated with grated Brush the ring with sprinkle with egg, sprinkle with beaten beaten egg, Brush the ring Pannesan, the grill. in the oven or under the the oyen and brown in Parmesan, and DE RIZ RIZ -Riee garnishes. BORDURES BoRDURES DE variow garnishes. Rice ring ring with with various prepared from rice pilaf, These from rice are usually prepared These rings (borders) are and bound with egg. consomm6 and risotto, or rice cooked in consommé it in in the oven Press the oYen mould and and set set it into the the mould rice weil well into Press the the rice for aa few minutes. with When turned out centre with dish, fiil fill the the centre serving dish, out onto onto aa serving various ingredients, such as mixed ragoûts or brown brown ragottts in white or sauce, etc. salpicons, etc. sauce, various salpicons, DE Semolina garnishes. BORDURE BoRDURE DE various garnishes. with various ring with Semolina ring in SEMOULE cooked in ring, using using semolina semolina cooked like Rice Rice ring, sEMouLE -- Prepare like consommé egg. and bound with egg. consomm6 and GIBIERS - These are FARCE DE GIBIERS

-

in aa border round aadish dish Fancyjelly arranged in border round shapes arranged Pancy jelly shapes (Larousse) (Larousse)

BoRDURES FROIDES FRoIDES or sweet sweet dishes. dishes. BORDURES rings for for entrées entrees or Cold Cold rings made These borders borders are are usually usually made - These jelly. Cold made can also also be be made borders can fruit jelly. Cold entrée entrie borders of of aspic aspic or or fruit gras, ham, game, chic mousses. chicken or fish fish mousses. ken or from from foie ham, game, foie gras,

D'ENTREITTs D'ENTRÉES, D'ENTRfEs, D'ENTREMETS

For D'ENrREtffirs -- For RINGS BoRDUREs D'ENTREMETS RINGS FOR FOR DESSERTS. DESSERTS. BORDURES (see CREAMS, arc creams) are CREAMS, Custard Custard creams) cold cold sweets, sweets, custards custards (see When turned turned made has been been caramelised. caramelised. When made in in aa mould mould that that has pur6es of fruit, etc. of fruit, etc. or purées macédoines or out, centre isis filled out, the filled with withmacddoines the centre (see RICE) RICE) and and Rings Rings can can be be made made of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (q.v.), and fruit or any semolina filled with with macédoines macidoines of of fruit or any semolina (q.v.), and filled other for aa hot hot sweet. other mixture mixture suitable suitable for sweet. DE vosgienne. BORDURE BoRDUREDE Custard ring with with mirabeUes mirabelles ài lala vosgienne. Custard ring MIRABELLES Prepare aa kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured MTRABELLES ÀA LA m VOSGIENNE vosctENNE -- Prepare (see CREAMS). Custard Custard cream crearn (see CREAMS). Fill ring mould mould with with the the cream, cream, and and Fill aa caramel-coated caramel-coated ring (q.v.). Allow cook in aabain-marie Allow toto cool cool completely completely before cook in bain-marie (q.v.). before tuming turning out. out.

Ring (border) of la normande normande of sole sole àd la Ring (border)

Ring I-l oe SOLES sorEs ÀA LA BoRDURE DE· normande. BORDURE la normande. of sole sole àI la Ring of (see FORCEFORCECrearn fish Prepare aa Cream forcemeat (see fuh forcemeat - Prepare MEAT), centre with with Fill the dish. Fiil the centre out on on aa dish. and tum tum itit out bake and MEAT), bake aa ragoût bound and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound ragof,rt of of mussels, shrimps and mussels, shrimps with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande Roll Place aa white wine. wine. Place in white and cook cook in fillerc and Roll up up smail small sole sole fillets poached, with fillet, coyer cover with each fillet, on each poached, debearded oyster on debearded oyster normande of truffie truffie-. with thin thin strips strips of decorate with sauce and and decorate normande sauce .' Garnish (q.v.). in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in with crayfish crayfish cooked Garnish with NORMANDE NoRMANDE -

135 135

BORIC BORIe Cook the mirabelles in the mirabelles in syrup. syrup. Prepare Preparewhipped whipped cream creamor or Cook (see CREAMS). Chantilly cream ueam (see CREAMS). Turn Turn out out the the ring ring onto onto Chantilly dish, and and fill fill the the centre centrewith with well-drained well-drained mirabelles. mirabelles. Top Top aadish, with whipped whipped cream. cream. Serve Serve with with mirabelle mirabelle sauce sauce laced laced with with with kirsch. kirsch. ring with with cherries. Rioe ring cherries. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DERIZ Rtz AUX lux CERISES crnrsss - - Fill Fill Riee buttered ring ring mould (se RICE). mould with with Dessert Dessert rice rice(see RICE).Heat Heat aa buttered the mould mould for for aa few few minutes minutes inin the the oven, oven, and and turn turn itit out out the onto aa dish. dish. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with stoned stonedcherries cherries which which have have outo been simmered simmered in in syrup syrup and and combined combined with goosewith aa little little goosebeen jelly. berry jelly. berry Rice ring ring ài lala créole. cr6ole" BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz ÀA LA re cRÉOLE cnfor,e - Riee Butter aa savarin savarin ring mould and ring mould and fill fill with with sweetened sweetened dessert dessert Butter rice. Turn Turn out, out, and and fill fill the middle with the middle with half-slices half-slices of pineof piuerice. apple which poached in which have have been been poached in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. apple preserved cherries Decorate with with preserved cherries and and angelica angelica lozenges. lozenges. Decorate Heat in in the the oven, oven, and and serve with rum-flavoured serve with rum-flavoured Apricot Apricot Heat (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Rioe ring ring Montmorency. Montmorency. BORDURE BoRDURE DE DE RIZ Rtz MONTMORENCYMoNTMoRENcy Riee Fill aa buttered buttered ring ring mould mould with with sweetened sweetened dessert dessert rice, rice, Fill pressing itit on on weil well to to ensure ensure that that there there are are no no holes. holes. Cover, Cover, pressing cook in in the and cook few minutes. the oven oven for for aa few minutes. Remove, Remove, and and turn turn and onto aa dish. dish. onto Fill the middle with the middle with stoned stoned cherries cherries which which have have been been Fill cooked in in syrup syrup and and weil well drained, drained, altemating alternating them them with with cooked layers of pastry cream (see CREAMS). of hot hot French pastry crecnn (see CREAMS). Finish Finish layers with aa layer layer of piling them of cherries, cherries, piling them slightly slightly into into aa dome dome with shape. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crushed crushed macaroons, macaroons, pour pour on on sorne shape. some melted butter, g)aze in butter, and and glaze in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. melted (see SAUCE) Serve with with Cherry Cherry sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which has has been Serve been laced with kirsch. Semolina ring ring filled fined with with various various fruit. fruit. BORDURE ronounn DE Semolina DE

Fillaabuttered butteredring ringmould with mouldwith -FiU sweeteneddessert dessertsemolina, pressingititweil semolina,pressing wellinto iniothe sweetened themould. mould. Heat for foraafew fewmoments momentsininaalow lowoven. Heat oven., Turnonto onto aadish, dish,and andfill fillwith withfruit fruitcooked Turn cookedininvanillavanillaflavoured syrup: syrup:halved halvedapricots, apricots, sliced pineapple,cherries, flavoured slicedpineapple, cherries, pears, quartered quartered apples, apples, etc. etc. pears, Heatininthe theoven ovenfor foraafew fewminutes, Heat minutes, and andwhen whenready readytoto pour over serve, pour overititaafew fewtablespoons serve, tablespoons of ofliqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured apricot sauCe, sau@, or orother otherfruit fruitsauce saucewhich goeswith apricot whichgoes withthe thefilling. filling.

sBMot LEGARNIE GARNIEDE DEFRUITS FRUTTSSEMOULE

(Acid). BORIQUE BORIC (Acid). BoRIeTJB- -Sometimes preservative BOinC Sometimes used usedasasaapreservative (seeBORAX). agent (see BORAX). ageht SeeSOUPS. SOUPS. BORSCH-- See BORSCH

BOTER MELK MELKoror BUTTERMILK BOTER (Beleisn cookery) BUTTERMILK(Belgiao cookery)- pearl barley Boil pearl barley inin buttermilk, Boil buttermilk, sweetened sweetenidwith. with brown brown sugar, for for l!l{ toto22 hours. sugar, hours. Before Before serving, serving blend blendininaalittle little (cornstarch)diluted cornflour (comstarch) cornflour diluted inin cold cold water. water.Treacle Treacle (molasses) isissometimes (molasses) sometimes added. added. Vermicelli, rice, Vermicelli, rice,semolina, semolina" and and tapioca tapiocacan canalso alsobe becooked cooked in buttermilk, buttermilk, with in withcurrants, currants, sultanas sultanas and and cooked cookedapples apples added. added. (Vicomte de) BOTHEREL BOTHEREL (Vicomte de) -- Famous Famous financier financier who who was was in Dinan born born in Dinan in n 1784 1784 and and who whodied in 1859. diedthere there in 1859. His His name name deserves deserves to mentioned in to be be mentioned in aadictionary dictionary of of cookery cookery for for itit was was he he who, who, under under the the Restoration, REstoration, created 'omnibuscreated 'omnibusrestaurants' restaurants'.. BOTTLE. BOTTLE. BOUTEILLE BourErLLE -- Oenology, Oenology, the science which the science which deals deals wi th wine, tion to gives the with wine, gives the following following defini definition to the the word word bottle: bottle: various shapes ours according 'A glass phial phial of A glass ofvarious shapes and and col colours according to to the the nature nature of of the the wine wine itit isis intended intended to contain.' This means to contain.' This means

Botties: Bottles: 1.l. Double Double litre; litre: 2.2.Litre'. Litre; 3.3. Demi-litre; Demi-litre; 4. 4. Bordeaux Bordeaux bottle; bottle; 5.5. Fillette Fillette d'Anjou; d'Anjou; 6. 6. Demi-Anjou; Demi-Anjou; 7.7. Anjou; Anjou; 8.8. Mâconnaise; Miconnaise; 9. Champagne; 9. Champagre; 10. 10. Bourgogne; Bourgogne; II. 11. Saint-Galmier; Saint-Galmier; 12. Fiasco Chianti; 12. Fiasco de de Chianti: 13. Flûte 13. Fl$te ài vin vin d'Alsace d'Alsace

136 136

BOUCHE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI of should should be be avoided, avoided, as as should should foods foods showing showing signs signs of

that Bordeaux Bordeaux wines wines should should not not be be bottled bottled in in Burgundy Burgundy that wine bottles, bottles, and and vice vice versa' versa. No No doubt doubt this this larv law can can be be wine case of of ordinary ordinary table table wines; wines; in in fact, fact, digressed when when itit isis aa case digressed most of of these these wines wines are are sold sold in in so-called so-called Saint-Galmier Saint-Galmier most

fermentation fermentation (bubbles (bubbles of of gas, gas, bulging bulging lids). lids).

when BOUCANADE BOUCANADE -- Spanish Spanish term term derived derived from from times times when wine goatskin bottles. bottles. In In slang slang it it means means wine was was placed placed in in goatskin quaffing quaffing straight straight from from the the bottle. bottle.

bottles. The The practice practice of of serving serving very very old old wines wines and and wines wines of of bottles. great growths growths out out of of wicker wicker cradles cradles is is not not approved approved by by great gastronomes; gastronomes; these these should should be be decanted decanted into into carafes carafes for for serving. serving. Contents of of bottles bottles in in France France -- The The law law of of January January 1930, 1930, Contenb states: states: Article l.1. Under Under the the conditions conditions of of Article Article 22 given given below, below, it it Article is forbiddOn forbiddèn to to put put on on sale sale or or to to sell sell wines wines other other than than is sparkling wines, wines, wines wines imported imported in in bottles bottles and wines ininsparkling for export, export, wines wines imported imported in in bottles bottles and and wines wines tended for tended export, in in bottles bottles other other than: than: intended for for export, intended BottIes known known as as bordelaise, bordelaise, bourguignonne bourguignonne andmdconand mâconl.1. Bottles type and capacity capacity of which' which are indicated in in the naise, the type naise, 3 June 1866, table appended appended in in the the law law passed passed on I131866, concerning table trade usages; usages; trade 2. Bottles BottIes which correspond to the following characteris2. tics: tics: (cl.) Capacity (cl.) Type 200 200 Double litre litre Double 100 Litre 50 Demi-litre 90 Sain t -Galmier Saint-Galmier 75 Anjou 37'5 37·5 Demi-Anjou Demi-Anjou d'Anjou or Fillette d'Anjou 35 Fillette de Touraine Touraine 72 72 Rhine wine

BOUCIIE BOUCHE DU DU ROI ROI -- Term Tenn used used under un der the the old old r6gime régime to to describe describe the the service service which which dealt dealt with with the the kitchens kitchens of of the the kings,,at royal household. These These services, services, under under certain certain kings, at royal household. of whom times times employed employed over over 500 500 people people (most (most of whom worked worked for for conexclusively conThey were only months in in the the year). year). They were exclusively only six six months from the distinct were and table king's cerned cerned with with the the king's table and were distinct from the certain and certain officers and for the the officers common common service, service, which which catered catered for members members of of the the royal royal household. household.

the food supplies, supplies, the with food dealing with roi included &t roi Bouche Bouche du included dealing pantler's The pantler's office. The butler's office. royal butler's and the the royal pantler's pantler's office office and king's with the the king's concerned with of everything charge of everything concemed omce nad office had charge were There were table. There of the the table. and accessories accessories of tableware, bread, bread, and of keeper of one keeper assistants, one four assistants, of service, service, four heads of thirteen thirteen heads and several several washer-up, and one washer-up, sommier, one one sommier, table-service, one table-service, various of these these various charge of in charge officials in the officials who assisted assisted the boys boys who posts. posts. with the the concerned with mainly concemed was mainly office was The butler's butler's office The heads ofthirteen consisted of and consisted king, and to the the king, served to beverages served beverages thirteen heads directed who directed sommiers, who fotn sommiers, and four five assistants assistants and of service, service, five of whenever baggage whenever carrying baggage pack animaIs animals carrying of pack convoys of the convoys the loaf carried aa loaf butler carried The butler war. The was at at war. or was king travelled, travelled, or the king the two of water, water, two bottles of two bottles wine, two of wine, bottles of two bottles bread, two of bread, of Majesty's His Majesty's to His canteen' to king's canteen, for the the king's ice for and sorne some ice napkins and an containd an canteen contained The canteen morning. The every moming. early every clolet early closet require aa king require the king should the beverages should of beverages stock of emergency stock emergency were beverages were These beverages closet. These in rus his closet. was in he was while he drink while drink office. royal butler's butler's office. of the the royal an officer officer of first by by an tasted first tasted master equerries, master included equerries, kitchens included royal kitchens for the the royal The staff staff for The pastrysoup-cooks, pastryroasting, soup-cooks, of roasting, in charge charge of cooks in cooks, cook s, cooks were who were errand boys, boys, who galopins or kitchen errand or kitchen and three three galopins cooks, and cooks, days. of those those days. kitchens of of the the kitchens commis of the commis the armchairfuel-carriers, annchairwater-carriers, fuel-carriers, also water-carriers, were also There were There and sert-d'eou,and of sert-d'eau, valetsof heralds, valets sommiers, heralds, ushers, sommiers, carriers, ushers, carriers,

receptacle The of aa receptacle is that that of above is indicated above The capacity capacity indicated (59'F.). This This measured at neck rim at aa temperature of l5oC. (59°F.). of 15°C. measuredit ca paci ty has cent. of22 per cent. has aa tolerance tolerance of capacity the Article permitted to use bottles bottles the to use not be be permitted will not 2. It Article 2. It will given in in appearance description given the description answers the which answers of which appearance of unless Article 1I which have legal capacity, capacity, unless minimum legal the minimum not the have not these capacity' indicating their their capacity. label indicating bottles bear aa label these bottles preceding In with the the preceding in accordance accordance with where, in In the case where, the case to paragraph, aa label in addition addition to bear, in should bear, used, this this should label isis used, indication of of the the indication capacity, the minimum capacity, of the the minimum indication of the indication such where such the wine, where in the the wine, contained in of a1cohol alcohol contained degree of the degree indication compulsory. indication isis compulsory. not Article are not in this decree are this decree laid down down in conditions laid The conditions Article 3.3. The applicable to: applicable to: publication 1.l. Bottlescontaining the publication before the made before wines made Bottles containing wines of bottles put into above-ementioned bottles into the the above-ementioned and put decree and of this this decree before publication; the said said publication; before the 2.2. Receptacles cellarascarafes, carafes, cellarsuchas bottles, such than bottles, other than Receptacles other jugs, for conconjugs, pitchers, are served served for which wines wines are pitchers, etc., etc., inin which sumption premises. on the the premises. sumption on

washers-up. four washers-up. four hadtheir their all had dauphine ail thedauphine and the queen, the dauphin and the dauphin The queen, The servants totoaa ofservants total of the total bringingthe services, bringing kitchen services, separate kitchen separate were royal household householdwere of the theroyal officials of The officiaIs great number. number. The very great very of reign of of the thereign endof theend until the aristocracy until of the thearistocracy membersof all members ail were bought bought royalservice service were the royal for the suppliesfor XIV, and and supplies Louis XIV, Louis came whichcame lawswhich fiscal laws severefiscal But the thesevere gentlemen. But by these these gentlemen. by aristocrats andaristocrats prohibitivelyexpensive, expensive,and madesupplies supplies prohibitively inin made the Instead,the office'Instead, positions of ofhigh high office. these positions longer sought sought these nolonger no paidaahigh high whopaid burghers, who richburghers, passed on ontotorich were passed duties were duties price totoobtain them. obtainthem. price

BOTULISM. by causedby infection caused Serious infection BoruL,IsME - - Serious BOTLJLISM. BOTULISME anaerobic Clostridium (the organism involved isisClostridium organisminvolved bacteria (the anaerobic bacteria botulinum) which develop vegetables; fishor orvegetables; meat, fish canned meat, develop inincanned botulinum)which both ptomaine from ptomaine differsfrom canned. ItIt differs factorycanned. homeand and factory both home poisoning botulism bythe thebotulism affected by substances affected poisoninginin that the substances that the bacillus show food)show (ham, pork produce and cannedfood) pork produce othercanned and other bacillus (ham, no dohave haveaa theydo timesthey putrefaction, although althoughatattimes of putrefaction, no signs signs of peculiar peculiar sour smell. soursmel!' To properly onlyproperly of botulism botulism only occurrenceof the occurrence To avoid avoid the sterilised en aa Vacuurn, eveven used.Vacuum, musthebeused. foodsmust cannedfoods sterilisedcanned perfect anaerobes guarantee, because because anaerobes perfectone, notaasufficient sumcientguarantee, one,isisnot develop pickledinin Foodpickled ofoxygen. oxygen'Food absence of theabsence evenininthe develop even chlorine percent sodium centofofsodium least1010per should contain containatatleast chlorine should chloride. pickling,its content itsacetic aceticacid acidcontent If vinegar isisused usedfor forpickling, chloride.Ifvinegar should 2 per percent. cent. bemore morethan than2 shouldbe Ali rancidsmell smell havinga arancid foodsand andthose thosehaving canned foods Allsuspect suspectcanned

Bouchedudu MembersofofthetheBouche Members roiroi

137 137

BOUCHEES

BOUCHÉES

BOUCI{EES - Name given to little patties made of puff BOUCHÉES Name given to little patties made of puff pastry baked -blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. pastry baked blind (empty) and filled with various mixtures. It is said that these bouchCes were invented by Marie It is said that these bouchées invented by Marie Leczinska, who, being very fondwere of her food, .adored' the Leczinska, who, being very fond of her food, 'adored' the vol-au-vent, and decided to eat it regularly. So the small, vol-au-vent, and decided to eat il regularly. 50 the small, individual vol-au-vent was created the 'bouchie reine,. was created - -the 'bouchée àdlatareine'. individual Recipes vol-au-vent for the preparation of puffpastry bouchies will be -found Recipes for the preparation of puff pastry bouchées will be under HORS-D'(EUVRE. found under HORS-D'ŒUVRE. BOUDY - Good-looking apples which are rather mediocre BOUDY Good-looking apples which are rather mediocre in taste. -They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, They are used mainly for decorating fruit baskets, inbut taste. they can also be cooked. but they can also be cooked. BOUFFOIR - Bellows which butchers use to force air under BOUFFOIR Bellows which butchers use to force air under the skin and -into the cellular tissues of carcases. the skin and into the cellular tissues of carcases.

BOUGRAS (P6rigord cookery)

poissonsnourris Puisles lespoissons nourrisassez assezloin loindedelalarade, rade, Puis Danslelecreux cranxdes desrécifs: rdcifs:lelebeau beaurouget, rouget,l'orade, Dans 1'0 rade. pageldélicat, Lepagel delicat,leIesaint-pierre saint-pierreodorant. odorant, Le Gibierdedemer parleleloup mersuivi suivipar loupdévorant, divorant, Gibier galinette,avec Enfin,la yeuxdedehogues, avecses sesyeux bogues, Enfin, la galine/le, Etd'autres. d'autres,oubliés parles oublidspar lesichthyologues ichthyologues Et poissonsque Finspoissons queNeplune, Neptune, aux auxfeux d'unciel cielardent, ardent, Fins feuxd'un Choisitàdlalafourchette jamaisau autrident. trident. Choisit fourcherte etetjamais

Hearken toto me, me,old oldcooks cooksand and new new Hearken All those those who who make makelobsters lobstersout prawns outof ofprawns Ali potelor And think think that thatone onecan, can,Chez Chez Potel orChabot, Chabot. And Translate my mydish dish into into slices slicesof of turbot. turbot. Translate The hour hour has hascome come at atlast, last, when whenour ourcapital capital Tbe Can add add oriental oriental dishes dishes to to her her banquets banquets Can givethe And give gourmands in the gourmands in aa restaurant restaurant And real MarseiJles Marseilles ragoûl, ragofit, and and not not aa lying lying dish. dish. AA real

Soup prepared

from BOUGRAS (Périgord cookery) -- Soup prepared from leeks, onions and potatoes, using waier in which 91bbage, leeks, cabbage, onions and potatoes, using water in which black puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much puddings were cooked for stock. This soup, much black appreciated in Pdrigord, is made at Shrovetide, when pigs appreciated in Périgord, is made atp6rigord Shrovetide, when pigs are slaughtered and the delicious black puddinls the delicious Périgord black puddings are are slaughtered made. Here and is the recipe: areBring made.about Here is the recipe: 2 litres (3f pints, 4] pints) water to the boil Bring litres (3t pints, 4-i pints) water to the boil put about and into it2 the sliced, blanched heart of a curly green and put into it the blanched heart of a curly green cabbage, carrots, sliced, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered cabbage, carrots, turnips, leeks, celery and quartered olrions. Simmer slowly for 40 minutes. Add 2 large sliced (Jnions. Simmer slowly for 40 Add 2 large sliced potatoes, and continue cooking minutes. for a further 35 minutes. potatoes, cooking for a further 35 minutes. Aboutand 15 continue minutes before serving, drain some of the About 15 minutes before serving, drain some of the vegetables, cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with flour cut into slices, and fry lightly. Sprinkle with f10ur vcgelables, and a little stock, and add to the soup. (This is calledfricassde and a little stock, add to tbe soup. (This is calledfricassée in P6rigord andis and added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and in Périgord is added to most soups.) Bring to the boil and pour into a and tureen over thin slices of bread. pour into a tureen over thin slices ofbread.

BOUILLABAISSE

For this this Phocaean Phocaean dish, dish, accomplished accomplished without without fault, fault, For Above al!, all, isis indispensable indispensable the the rascasse, rascasse, Above 'Tis lrue, true, aa very very common common fish. fish. 'Tis Served on grill alone, on aa grill alone, ilit does does not not find find favour, favour, Served But in in aa bouillabaisse bouillabaisse itit does does exude exude But A marvellous marvellous aroma aroma on on which which success success depends. depends. A The rascasse rascasse feeds feeds in in crevasses, crevasses, in in qquicksinds, The uicksands, In bays bays shaded shaded with with laurel laurel and and myrtle myrtle bushes bushes ln Or around around rocks rocks covered covered with with f10wering flowering thyme. thyme. Or Then the the fish fish which which feed feed away away from from the the roads, Then Among the the reefs: reefs: the the beauliful beautiful red red mullet mullet and and orades, orades. Among The delicate delicate sea sea brearn, bream, the the sweet-smelling sweet-smelling saint-pierre, The game escaping Sea game escaping from from the the devouring devouring sea sei perch, Sea perch, And galinette, with And finally, finally, the the galinette, with its its boops'eyes, boops' eyes, And others, forgotten by the And others, forgotten by the ichthyologists, ichthyologists, Fine fish, of a blazing sky, Fine fish, that that Neptune, Neptune, in in the the fire of Spikes and never on aa fork, fork, and never on a trident. Spikes on

This Mediterranean

speciality is is - This Mediterranean speciality BOUILLABAISSE -prepared all along the south coast of Francs from Cap prepared ail along the south coast of France from Cap Cebbre to Menton, each having its special flavour ani Cebère to Menton, each having ilS special flavour and recipe. Connoisseurs consider that only authentic recipe. Connoisseurs consider that the the only authentic bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles bouillabaisse is to be found in the region between Marseilles and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton and Toulon, though the varieties at Nice and Menton come come a close second. a close second. Legend attributes the invention of this dish to Venus, who, ofthis dish to Venus, who, it Legend is said,attributcs preparedthe it invention for her husband, Vulcan. Méry, it is said,gives prepared it for her husband, Vulcan. M6ry, however, the credit to the abbess of a Marseillis however, gives the credit to the abbess of a Marseilles convent: convent: 'Pour le vendredi maigre,unjour, certaine abbesse 'Pour le vendredi maigre. un jour. certaine abbesse D'un couvent marseillais cria Ia bouille-abaisse., D'un couvent marseillais créa la bouille-abaisse.' 'f9r u Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess 'For Friday abstinence meal, one day, a certain abbess Of a aMarseilles nunnery created the Of a Marseilles nunnery created the blouillabaisse., bouillabaisse.' He then goes on to say what a rcal bouillabarse is like. and He then goes on to say what a reaJ bouillabaisse is Iike, and what fish should go into the making of it: what fish should go into the making of it:

In ln some some regions, regions, notably notably in in Perpignan, Perpignan, potatoes potatoes are are added added

to to bouillabaissq bouillabaisse, and and often often the the saffrori saffru
which which brings soup nearer nearer to to the the chaudrde chaudrée (q.v.) (g.v.) or the the cotriade cOlriade brings this this soup (q.v.). (g.v.). At At Sbte Sète aa garlic-flavoured garlic-ftavoured fish fish soup soup is is made made which which isis somewhat somewhal similar similar to 10 the the Flemish Flernish waterzootje walerzoolje (q.v.). (q.v.). Ingredients The Provence Provence botuillabaisse, bouillabaisse, Ingredients for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse -.. The or, or, more more correctly, correctly, the the Marseilles Marseilles bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, isis made made of ofthe the following chapon, saint-pierre, saint-pierre, conger conger eel, eel, following fish: fish: rascasse, rascasse, chapon, lophius lophius (angler (angler fish), fish), red red mullet, mullet, rouquier, rouquier, whiting, whiting, sei sea perch, perch, spiny crabs and and other otbershellfish. sbellfish. (Many (Manyof ofthe the fish fish used used spinylobster, lobster, crabs for bouillabaisse, such such as as the the traditional traditional rascasse, rascasse, are are not not for bouillabadsse, found except found except in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. These These are are virtually virtually unknown unknown in in England England and and America America but but gurnet, gurnet, mackerel, mackerd, small srnall turbot, turbot, fresh fresh tunny, tunny, perch, perch, pike, pike, grayling, grayling, trout, trout, eeleelpout poutand andvarious variousrock rockfish fish can canbe besubstituted substitutedififnecessary.) necessary.) All should be becut eut into into uniform-sized uniform-sized piecei. pieces. To To Ail these these fish lish should make makeenough enoughbouillabaisse bouillabaissefor for 88to to l0 10persons personsyou you will will need need about about33kg. kg.(6+lb.) (6i-lb.)fish fishand andshellfish. shellfish. Put Put200 200g.Q g. (7 oz., oz., l|licups) cups)chopped chopped onions, onions,33large largeseeded seeded and chopped and chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, 44 pounded pounded garlic garlic cloves, c1oves, i a sprig sprig of of fenne!and and33sprigs sprigsofofbruised bruisedparsley, parsley,aasprig sprigofofthyme, thyme,aabay bay -fenlel leaf leafand and aa pieoe piece of ofdry dry orange orange peel peel into into aa large-casserole. large casserole. Add Addthe theshellfish, shellfish,then thenthe thefirm-fleshed firm-fleshedfish. fish. Sprinkle Sprinklewith with22dl. dl.($(tpint, pint,scant seantcup) cup)olive oliveoil oiland andseason season with and freshly freshly ground groundpepper. pepper. Add Add aagood goodpinch pinch of of with salt saltand powdered powdered saffron saffron and and enough enough water water to to cover coyer the the fish fish completely. cornpletely. Boil on,for for77toto88minutes. minutes.Then Thenadd add Boilbriskly, briskly,with withaalid lidon, the thefish fishwith withdelicate delicateflesh, flesh,such suchasaswhiting whitingand andred redmullet, mullet, and andcook cooktogether. together.Total Totalcooking cookingtime timeofofbouillabar'sse bouillabaissedoes does not notexceed exceed1414toto1515minutes. minutes.

Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, Ecoutez bien ceci, vieux cuisiniers novices, Qui faites des homards avec des icrevisses, Quifaites desqu'on homardç avec des écrevisses, Et qui croyez peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Et qui croyez plat qu'on peut, chez Potel ou Chabot, Traduire grec mon en tranches de turbot. Traduireestmon plat grec en tranches de turbot. I'heure enfin vmue oit notre capitale L'heure est enfin venue où notre capitale Pant joindre d ses banquets Ia table orientale, Peut joindre à ses banquets la table orientale, Et donner arx gourmands, chez le restaurateur, El ragoitt donner marseillais aux gourmands, chez le restauraleur, Un et non un plat mmteur.

Un ragoût marseillais et non un plat menteur. ce plat phocien, accompli sans difaut, À ce plat phocéen, accompli sans défaut, Indispensablement, mAme avant tout, ilfaut lndüpensablement. avant tout, ilfaut La rascasse, poisson,même certes, des plus vulgaires. La rascasse, poisson, des plus vulgaires. IsolC wr un gril, on ne certes, I'estime guire, Isolé dans sur un gril, on ne l'estime guère, Mais la bouillabaisse aussitbt il rdpand Mais {kms la bouillabaisse aussitôt il répand De merveilleux parfums d'oil Ie succis ddpend. Derascasse, merveilleux parfums d'où le succès dépend. La nouruie aux crevasses des syrtes, La rascasse, nourrie aux crevasses des syrtes, Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Dans les golfes couverts de lauriers et de myrtes, Ou devant un rocher garni de fleurs de thym. Ou devant un rocher garni defleurs de thym.

)

138

138

BOUILLABAISSE BOUILLABAISSE

(Scarnati) bouillabaisse (Scarnali) for bouillabaisse lngredients for Ingredients

chopped tomatoes and a peeled and and chopped stalks, 44 peeled celery stalks, cloves, 22 celery cloves, tornatoes and a pinch of saffron. of saffron. pinch eel, 3 red mullets' conger eel, whitings, 1I conger slices 44 whitings, into slices Cut into Cut 3 red mullets, lobsters or 2 2 small sardines, fresh a few mackerels. 3 3 mackerels, a few fresh sardines, 2 small lobsters or 2 into chunks' prawns, cut Bay Dublin some and crabs, crabs, and sorne Dublin Bay prawns, cut into chunks. cayenne pepper and add little cayenne pepper and and aa little with salt, salt, pepper Season with pepper and add Season the fish. to cover cover the water to and water wine and white wine dry white enough dry enough fish. generous quart) mussels (lf pints, I litre cook Separately, Separately, cook 1 litre (lt pints, generous quart) mussels and add the mussels, and shells and the shells discard the done,discard when done, and, when and, add the mussels, and the boil Bring toto the fish'Bring in, toto the the fish. cooked in, were cooked they were liquor they the liquor the boil minutes. gently for for30 30minutes. andsirnrner simmer gently and the fish and Strain the goldenbrown. brown' StraÏn until golden of bread bread until Fry slices slices of Fry fish and the fish on a Arrangethe bread- Arrange fried bread. thefried over the pour the liquor over the liquor pour fish on a soup. as the time the same at and serve dishand serve at the same tirne as the soup. separate separate dish -Bouillabaisse 150 g. (5 oz',, Fry briskly briskly150 parisienne - - Fry Bouillabaisse ài lalaparisienne g. (5 oz., (3 oz-, * cup) chopped' g. 75 and onion chopped lf cups) I-!- cups) chopped on ion and 75 g. (3 oz., t cup) chopped pint, I cup) oil, dl.(t$ pint, parts)ininI-tl+dl. (usingonly white parts) thewhite only the leeks(using leeks tdl.cup) oil, (1 pint' with66dl. Moisten with colour.Moisten themtotocolour. all,owing them without allowing without (1 pint, generous (lf pints' 1 litre add andadd 1 litre (lt pints, generous wine, and white wine, cups) white 212| cups) peeled, seeded and chopped stock44peeled, thisstock quartf water. Addtotothis water.Add quart) seeded and chopped andaa thymeand sprigofofthyme garlicclcloves, crushedgarlic tomatoes, 44crushed tomatoes, oves, aasprig pinch of goodpinch pepper and salt, with leaf. Season bayleaf. Season with salt, pepper and aagood of bay heads and trimmings anyheads stockany thisstock Addtotothis powdered saffron. saffron.Add powdered and trimmings for briskly for 2020 Cookbriskly dish.Cook foranother anotherdish. intendedfor n.nintended bffish of fine strainer. a pass through and minutes minutes and pass through a fine strainer. weever, eel,weever, congereel, whiting,conger gurnet,red redmullet, mullet,whiting, upgurnet, Cutup Cut deep flatinina adeep laythem themfiat andlay chunks,and intochunks, lobsterinto spinylobster andspiny and salt withsalt top,season seasonwith ontop, washed,on wellwashed, pan.Place mussels,weil Placemussels, pan. parsley and oil. withchopped choppedparsley pepperand andsprinkle sprinklewith andpepper and and oil.

the with the and serve serve with of bread, bread, and over slices slices of the soup soup over Strain Strain the chopped with chopped fish with and fish soup and Sprinkle soup shellfish. Sprinkle and shellfish. fish and fish used marette, isis used called marelle, special bread, bread, called parsley. In In Marseilles, Marseilles, special parsley. purpose. for this this purpose. for points isis essential points the essential of the one of good bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse, one make good To To make soup in the the soup results in possible, which which results quickly as as possible, as quickly to cook cook itit as to right consistency. consistency. the right having having the to not to ought not bouillabaisse ought dish, bouillabaisse fisherman's dish, Originally Originally aa fisherman's fish. of fish. cuts of cheaper cuts the cheaper only the lobster, only contain contain lobster, This bouillabouilla(Provengal cookery) cookery) -- This borgne (Provençal Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse borgne Provence. called l'aigo-sau-d'iou l'aigo'sau-d ion inin Provence. baisse baisse isis called prepared as as fish stock stock prepared potatoes slowly slowly inin fish Cook sliced sliced potatoes Cook parisienne Bouillabaisse àd lala parisienne for Bouillabaisse recipe for described in the the recipe described in poachfresh fresheggs, eggs, potatoesare done, poach are done, (see below). the potatoes When the (see below). When them. tobreak break them. not to careDot taking care stock, taking in the thestock, by one, one,in one oneby and bread,and of bread, slicesof over slices tureenover into aa tureen soupinto thesoup Pour Pour the dish. another dish. onanother poached eggs eggson the poached potatoesand and the the potatoes arrange arrange the same thesame dishes atatthe two dishes thetwo parsleyand andserve serve the with parsley Sprinkle Sprinkle with time. time. Preparedasas MoRUE - - Prepared DEMORUE BouILLABAIssE DE Cod bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Cod bouillabaisse. rather (sebelow), stewrather thisisisaastew parisienne (see below),this Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse àhlalaparisienne COD. preparation, see seeCOD. method ofofpreparation, For method than soup.For thanaasoup. DEL'OCÉAN I'oc6AN BouILLABAISSE DE Ocean bouillabaisse. BOUILLABAISSE Ocean bouillabaisse. Mediterranean essentially aaMediterranean Although thebouillabaisse bouillabafsseisisessentially Althoughthe coast' theAtlantic Atlantic coast. onthe madeon kindofofbouillabaisse bouillabaisse isismade dish, dish,aakind potatoes (generous 1Ilb.) lb.)potatoes 500g.g.(generous onions, choppedon Fry ions, 500 Fry55big bigchopped cup) tablespoonsü(jcup) leeksinin66tablespoons choppedleeks and44chopped intoslices, cut cutinto slices,and little (scantt * cup) Adda alittle cup)butter. butter.Add oil and33tablespoons tablespoons (scant oiland garlic leaf,44c1oves, cloves,44garlic bayleaf, fennel,a abay andfennel, savoryand thyme, thyme,savory 139 139

BOUILLANT BOUILLANT Cookbriskly for1515minutes. brisklyfor minutes.Add Add33tablespoons (scant tablespoons(seant! Cook cup)kneaded kneaded butter. butter. pourthe Arrange the thefish fishinrnaatimbale (q.v.).Pour timbale(q.v.). thesoup soupinto into another timbale timbaleover grilledslices overgril1ed slicesof ofbread. bread. another Sardine booillaooisse bouillabaisse. BourLLABArssE DE DESARDINES SARDTNEs - _ Frv Sardine ..BOUlLLABAlSSE choppedon onion and2leeks 2leeksininoil. oil.Add peeled,seeded Addaapeeled, seeded and 1Ichoppcd ion and chopped_tomato, poundedgarlic garlicclcloves, bayleaf, leaf,JIsprig tomato, 22pounded oves, 1Ibay sprig of fennel and andaasmall pieceof smallpiece oforange orange peel.Moisten Moisten with *iti' pints, lilt pints) pints) water. water.Season Seasoi withsalt, pepper and I litre (l$ pints, salt, pepper and a pinch of ofsaffron. saffron. Add Add66sliced potatoes,and sliced potatoes, andcook cookwith the with the lidOn pan. on the thepan. When the potatoes are nearly done,arrange (2+lb.) arrange 1I kg. kg.(2-1lb.) -When the potatoes are nearly done, cleaned, scaled scaled and and washed washed fresh freshsardines sardines-on t[em,- and ani cJeaned, On them,

I

turnips, turnips, leeks, parsnips,onion, onion,celery, garlic,c1oves. celery,garlic, cloves. To Toclarify clarify bouillon, whisk750 (lf lb.) 750g.g.(li lb.)lean leanmeat, meat,22leeks leeks cut cutup upinto intosmall smalldice, dice,and andaafresh freshegg eggwhite whiteininaadeep pan. deeppan. (4|pints, Add A.dd2t 2+litres litres(41 pints,5t5{pints) pints)lukewann hk;warmbouillon. bouillon. ConContinue tinuetotowhisk whiskthe thecontents contents of ofthe the panuntil untilititboils. boils.Lower Lowerthe the heat heatand andsimmer simmerfor forI!lj hours. hours. Strain through through aaclotho cloth. Bouillon Bouillon dedeDOce (weddiry sonp) noce(wedding soup) (périgord cookery).-@6rigord cookery) Thi-s This Périgord P€rigord clear clearsoup soup Îsis reallyaaversion version of ofollapodrida oilapodrida (q.v.).Four (q.v.). . beef, Four kil1ds kinds of of meat meatare are used: beef,aaveal vealknuckle, knuckle, aa sluffed stuffed chicken chickenand andaaturkey. turkey. Ali All these these are arecooked cooked ininstock stock tlavoured flavoured with withvegetables, vegetables, together together with withSwiss Swiss chard. chard. Add Add onion, onion, frie<.! fried inin lard lard until until golden, and golden, andvermicelli. vermicelli. pnCÉRÉALES Cere al bouillons. Cereal bouillons BOUILLONS BourLLoNs DE cfnf,c,rEs - - These These are rich are rich inin assimilable assimilable minerai mineral substances substances and and soluble soluble nutritive nutritive matter matter which, which, being responsible for being responsible for giving vegetable vegetable embryo eqlbryo the the nutriment nutriment necessary necessary for for growth, have a heneficial beneficial effect effect on on growing children. children. Boil Boil 1I tablesl,oc,n tablespoon each of wheat, oats, barley,tye,maize maize and and bran bran for for aa long long lime time in in 33litres litres (5f pints, 6| pints) water water until until the the liquid liquid has has boiled boiled down down to I liiri to llitre (ltpints, generous quart}. Strain, and and add add salt salt and and sugar. euart): Sirain, Herb bouillon (stock). (stock). BOUILLON BourLLoN AUX Arx HERBES rrERDEs -- Wash (l| oz.) 40 g. (Ii a0 g. oz.) fresh fresh sorrel (* oz.) sorrel leaves, leaves, 20 20 g.g. (~ oz.) fresh fresh lettuce lettuce leaves, (* oz.) leaves, !O l0 g.g. H oz.) fresh fresh chervil chervil leaves leaves and and cook cook in in 1I litre litre (1(If, ~ pints, generous quart) quart) water water until until done. done. Add pinch of Add aa pinch of sea sea salt salt and 1I teaspoon fresh fresh butter. Cook little longer, Cook aa liule longer, and and strain. strain. Vegetable Vegetable bouillon (stock). BOUILLON bouillon (stock). BourLLoN DE or rEcururs Vegetarian Vegetarian cookery cookery books give many recipes for these. books give Clea r vegetable vege ta ble so u ps can Îe ts, Clear soups can be be used used in children,s ddiets, partially replacing partially replacing milk; milk; and and in in diets diets for for invalids. invalids. With With tapioca tapioca or or vermicelli vermicelli added, added, these these soups soups acquire acquire more more nutritive value. Dr. Leclerc gives aa vegetable stock for children: Boil 50 g. _ (2 oz.) carrOIS, ffi g. !-IV,."",,",,.. .>, 15 g. (* oz.\ turnipi, or) carrots, g.Q* oz.) potatoes, 9 6 g. g. Q Cl; oz.) dried peas and and 6 e. g. G oz.) in 33 litres oz.) dried beans in lities (5| pints, 6| (st 6t pints) water in În aa covered covered stockpot sLOckpot for 4 hours. hours. for 4 Boil Boil down down to to I1 litre litre (l| Oi pints, pints, generous quart) and and add generous quart) add seant teaspoon salt. salt. scant teaspoon Rice flour flom or other other cereals can cau be be added added to [0 this this stock. stock, or or itit used as a basis for other other soups. soups. can be used

cook for for 88 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with parsley and with parsley and serve serve cook separately. Strairi Strairi the the bouillabaisse bouillabaisseover over slices slices of of bread laid bread laid in a deep dish. Spinact bouillabaisse bouilta6giou (Provençal cookery). BOUILLABAISSE BourLLABArssE @rovengalcookery). o'fprNARos -- Here Here isis aa recipe contributed contributed by great by the the great D'ÉPINARDS master of Provengal CUISine, cuisine, J. B. Reboul; Reboul: mas ter of 'Pick over over and wash (2| lb.) wash 1I kg. kg. (2* lb.) spinach, spinach, cook cook for for 55 'Pick minutes in in boiling boiling water, water, then then dip dip into into cold cold water water and and drain. drain. minutes Press with with the the hands hands to to extract extract aIl all waler, water, and and chop chop the the Press spinach. spinach. (3 tablespoons, 'Put -1] dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant I cup) cup) oil into an oil into an earthenearthen'Put ware casserole, casserole, add add aa chopped chopped onion, previously fried onion, previously fried ware lightly without without browning, browning, and and the the spinach. spinach. Cook Cook on on aa low low lightly fire for for 55 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring al! all the the time. 6re 'When the the spinach isis searoo, seared, add add 55 sliced sliced waxy potatoes. - 'When pepper and Season with with salt, pepper and aa little little saffron. saffron. Moiiten with Season (l| pints, litre (I~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) boiling boiling water, water, add Z !I litre chopped garlic garlic cloves cloves and and aa sprig sprig of of fennel, fennel, and and cook, covered with with aa lid, lid, on on aa low low flame. When the the'potatoes are cooked, poach poach 4 eggs in When potatoes are in the pan.'

a

BOUILLANT -- Smal1 puff pastry pastry patty, Small pufr patty, filled with a BOUILLANT fi.lled with (q.v.) of salpicon (q.v.) of chicken, chicken, served served very hot hot as an horsa an salpicon (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, d'euvre. (See and rissoles.) rissoles.) d'œuvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Small patties alUl BOUILLE BOUILLE -- Vessel Vesse) used used for for transporting transporting milk.

BOLILLETURE BOUlLLETURE a or BOUILLITURE BOUILLITURE (Anjou (Anjou cookery) cookery) -Matelote Malelote (q.v.), made made mainly of of eel, eel, moistened moistencd with with red wine, wine, thickened with with kneaded butter, hutter, garnished with wilh mushrooms, mushrooms, little !iUle onions anions and and - aa local touch - with prunes. prunes. This This rnatelorc male/Ole is is served served garnished garnished with slices of of toast. toast.

BOUILLON BOUILLON -- Little restaurants restaurants which which serve serve meals meals at at aa

BOUILLI BOUILLI -- Abbreviation Abbreviation of of boeuf boeuf bouilli, bouilli, i.e. i.e. boiled boîled beef. becf.

BOUILLON AVEUGLE AVEUGLE -- Colloquial Colloquial expression expression applied applicd BOUILLON 10 mediocre mediocre clear c1ear soup when when small small spots spots of of fat, fat, called eyes, to called eyes,

fixed fixed price; price; the the menu menu is is usually usually limited. limÎted.

For For recipes, recipes, see see BEEF, BEEF, Boited Boiled beef. beef.

cannot be he seen seen on on the the surface. surface. Many of of these these soups, howhowcannot ever, have have the the spots spots of of fat fat carefully skimmed skimmed off before before ever,

BOLILLON BOUlLLON -- Stock Stock or or broth. broth.

Plain Plain white white stock stock serves serves as as aa basis basis for for all aH soups, clear and thickened. thickened. ItTt isis also also used used for for making making white white or or biown sauces. sauces. Stock Stock isis aa basic basic liquid Iîquid obtained obtained by by prolonged prolonged boiling bailing of ofmeat meat and and vegetables vegetabJes in in slightly slightly salted sa\ted water. water. Bouillon Bouillon is is one one of of the the basic basÎc elements elements of of French French cookery, both both in in home home kitchens kitchens and and inin the the most most sumptuous sumptuous establisfie.~[.~nllsn­

serving. servrng.

BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE Name given given to to edible edible agaric. agaric. DE-NEIGE -- Name BOULE BOULE-DE-NEIGE (Pâtls...~rie) Cakes in the shape shape of of DE-NEIGE (Pfltisserie) - Cakes in the balls, dipped dipped in in whipped cream. cream. They They are are usually usually made made of of balls,

layers of offine coated with with butter butter cream. cream. fine sponge coated term isis also applied applied to to an an iced iced sweet, sweet, rnade made of ofbombe bombe The term ice-cream mixture mixture set set in in·aa round round mould, mould, and and covere.d covered with with ice-cream whipped whipped cream creambefore before serving serving(see (seeSNOWBALL). SNOWBALL).

ments. ments.

Clear Clear soup soup isis aa food food of of mediocre mediocre nutritive nutritive value value (which (which

can, can,however, howcver, be beincreased increased by bythe the addition addition ofpasta ofpastaproducts, products, bread bread and and various various substances), substances), but hut an an excellent.quickener' excellent 'quickener' of ofdigestion, digestion, and and aa stimulant stimulant which which tones tones up up the the heart hcart and and slightly SOUpS ind BROTHS.) slightlyraises raisesthe theblood bloodpressure. pressure.(See (SeeSOUPSand BROTHS.) Clarificatim Clarlflcatioo of of bouillon bouillon. coNsould CONSOMMÉ BLANc BLANC srMpLE SIMPLE - The The

BOULEDE DESON SON('Bran Ball,) Bail')-- Slang Slangterm term used used totodescribe describe BOULE ration bread, bread, called so so because because of of the the relatively relatively high high proproration portion ofbran bran which which went went into into its its preparation. preparation. portion of

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BOULETTE -- Dish Dish prepared prepared from from some sorne mixture mixture (force(forceBOULETTE meat, hash hash or or pur6e) purée) which which is is given a spherical form. form. meat, Boulettes Bouleues are are often onen made made from from pieces of lefi-over meat or fish. They They are are dipped dipped inÎn egg egg and breadcrumbs and and fried fried inÎn fish.

object object of of clarifying bouillon bouillon isis to to make make ordinarv ordinary bouillon bouillon more more limpid; limpid; it also improves the the taste. taste. ItIt isÎs done done with with white white of of egg egg and and lean lean beef and and vegetables vegetables cut CUl into into small sma!! dice. diœ.Bauillon Bouillonclarified c1arified ininthis thisway wayisiscalled called consommi. consommé. InIndomestic domestîccookery, cookery,stock stockisisserved scrvedwithout wîthoutclarification. clarification. Served_ Servedasasaasoup soupafter afteradding various garnishes (principally (prlncipally some pas ta),ititisismade with beef and andfowl, fowl, carrotj, carrots, sorneform form ofofpasta),

deepfat. fat.Or Orthey theyare arebrushed brushedwith withbutter butterororlard lardand andcooked cooked deep theoven. oven. ininthe BOUQUET. BoueuEr BOUQUET DE DE vrN veN -- Wine Wine bouquet bouquet isis due due toto BOUQUET. 140 140

BOWELS

BOWELS

it in sDoons (* cup) flour. When the paste is smooth, spread spaons (t cup) flour. When the paste is smooth, spread it in u'u-utrctlf pii aitn, indent 7 or 8 holes with a finger and-pu!1

ethers ethersand andessences essencesororessential essentialoils, oils,which whichare areextremely extremely volatile. volatile.InInthe theprocess processofevaporation of evaporationthese theseessences essencesrelease release aromaspertaining pertainingtotoeach eachwine. wine. themultiple multiplearomas the The Thefour fourelements eJementswhich whichdetermine determinethe thequality qualityofofa awine wine are are the the colour, col our, the the bouquet, bouquet, fruitiness fruitiness and and vinosity vinosity (the (the right flavour flavourand andstrength strengtbofofthe thewine). wine).ItsItsquality qualitylies liesininthe the right proportion proportionofofthese theseelements' elements.

a buttered pie dish, indent 7 or 8 holes a finger 30 a forput ovenand a slow inwilh of frish butter in each. Bake oiece Bakeserving' in a slow oyen for 30 piece of fresh butter in each. before minutes. Sprinkle with sugar minutes. Sprinkle with sugar before serving.

BoURGEoIsE(ALA)_Namewhichisappliedtovarious BOURGEOISE (À LA) Name which is applied to various

to large pieces of braised meat, preparcd d.la ai.n.i."ioly dishes, mainly ta large of always braised include meat, prepared à la a garnish dishes Tieiepieces iii'ui"osiotse. "of mode bourgeoise. These dishes always include a ofgarnish lean

carrots, small onions and large dice composed of carrots, small on ions and large dice of lean "ompot"a (See GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump d la bourbacon. bacon. (See GARNISHES; BEEF, Top rump à la bour-

BOUQUET GARNI GARNI -- Aromatic Aromatic herbs herbs or orplants plants tied lied totoBOUQUET gether-in gether inaalittle littlefaggot. faggot.The Theusual usualherbs'are herbs ·areparsley, parsley,ttryp' thyme

geoise.)

and bay bayleaf, leaf,and and l[eir theirproportions proportionsare areadusted adjusted according according ind

geoise.) BOLTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the Cabernet franc BOlTRGUEIL - Wine produced from the Cabernet franc gtup" fni"tnamed 'Bret6n' in the region)' It has a delicious grape (nicknamed 'Breton' in the region). It has a delicious flavour and, generally speaking, is best d.*"\ i".pU"ity raspberry flavour and, generally speaking, is best drunk yo.rng. it is an excellent accompaniment to the regional young. Il is an excellent accompaniment to the regional dishes and to the goat cheeses. dishes and to the goat cheeses. Saint-Nicolas-de-Borgueil' The neighboori-ng appellation, -similar '*in"t ofa appellation, The neighbouring Saint-Nicolas-dc-Borgueil, but usually more character' ptoA""". produces wines of a simiJar character, but usually more robust and with a distinct tang. robust and witb a distinct tango (A LA) See the beginning of the BOURGUIGNONNE BOURGUIGNONNE (À LA) - See the beginning of the article on BURGUNDY. article on BURG UN DY. Type of long, handleless basket used to BOURRICIIE BOURRICHE - Typeoysters, of long, etc.handleless basket used to transport fruit, game, transport fruit, game, oysters, etc. (Provengd cookerv) - ryt I tr:g'\zilb') various BOURRIDE BOURRIDE (provençal cookery) - Put 1 kg. (2;}pints) lb.) various water' a small fish in iarge pan with 2liires (3| pints-, 4f smaU fish in a large pan with 2 litres (3i pints, 4t pints) water, chopped finely all - ano cloves garlic 2 onions, 2 tomatbei, 2 2 onions, 2 tomatoes, 2 garlic cloves - ail finely chopped - and a bouquit garni (q.v.). AOa a Httle bitter glang: neet, sgX191a bouquet garni (q.v.). Add a little bitter orange peel, sailron' seasoning, 2iablJspooni (3tablespoons) olive oil and some ing,2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) olive oil and sorne sa/fron. goil fast minutes. foits Boil fast for 15 minutes. the stock through a sieve, pressing the vegetablesStrain Strain the stock through a sieve, pressing the vegetables Bind the stock iith 2 egg yolks mixed with ailloli through. through. Bind the stock with 2 egg mixed with slices on ailloli tureen a soup pour into yolks and lightly i;;.t."si--er (q.v.). Simmer lightly andfish. pour into a soup tureen on slices the with Serve of bread. of bread. Serve with the fish. (Wine) Name given in the past to spiced wine' BOURRU BOURRU (Wine) -- Name given in the past to spiced wine. u hogshead of the wine, it was prepared by ^mixing For a hogshead of the(lf wine, it generous was prepared a very quart)byofmixing pints, I litre with white winE white wine with 1 litrewheat (Ji pints, generous quart) of a very flowers' elder and strong concoction of strong concoction of wheat and eIder flowers. No-wadays new wine is often called vin bounu' Nowadays new wine is often calied vin bourru.

toto the the naturi nature of ofthe the dish' dish. The The strength strength of ofthyme Ihyme and and bay bay

leaf leafmust must be he taken taken into into account account and and these Ihese aromatics aromatics used used sparingly. Bouquets Bouquels garnis garnLç can can be be small, small, medium medium or or large' large, sparingly. and rJi for certain certain kinds kinds of of dishes dishes they Ihey can can include include basil, basil, ""a celery, celery, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, burnet, bu met, rosemary, rosemary, savory, savory, etc' etc. They are are removed removed from from stews stews and and sauces sauces before before serving' serving. They

BOUQUETIDRE BOUQUETIÈRE (A (À LA) LA) -- Garnish Garnish used used for for meat meat dishes, dishes, compoled composed of of various variou~ vegetables vegetables disposed disposed in in bouquets' bouquets. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

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BOURBONNAIS BOURBONNAIS -- Bourbonnais, Bourbonnais, ancient ancient province province of of France, France, forms forms the the whole whole of of the the dCpartement département of of Allier Altier and and aa

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part of of Puy-de-D6me, Puy-de-Dôme, Creuse Creuse and and Cher' Cher. small part small The The 'Bourbonnichons' 'Bourbon nichons' (i.e. (i.e. natives natives of of the the district) district) are are generally generally hearty hearty eaters eaters and and enjoy enjoy good good country country dishes' dishes. ftighest'quality Highest quality beef, beef, mutton mutton and and por\ pork are are produced produced here' here. Ttie The riven ri vers and ponds ponds abound abound in in succulent succulent fish: 6sh: carp, carp, pike' pike, eel, cooked m en matelote malelote (q.v') (q.v.) or or an au blar bleu (q'v')' (q.v.). eel, which wbich are iooked game' good The streams streams are full full of of trout trout and and crayfish' crayfish. Very Very good game, both ground and winged, and and excellent excellent poultry, poultry, particularly particularly both The vegetable district. The g*",-ut" geese, are also foundln found in this this district. vegetable gardens gardens and fruit' choice vegetables produce choice orchards produce ind the orchaids and vegetables and fruit. Beverages-ThewinesofBourbonnaishaveaninteresting Beverllges - The wines of Bourbonnais have an interesting Saint-Pourgainof Saint-Pourçainwines of ros6 wines and rosé red and white, red bouquet. The white, bouquet.ihe V.D.Q.Sas V.D.Q.S. classified as are classified sur-Sioule sur-Sioule are From famous' From are famous. Bourbonnais are of Bourbonnais waters of mineral waters The minerai The watering-place' famous watering-place. has been been aa famous Vichy has immemorial Vichy time immemorial time In Romans' In the Romans. to the known to well known were weil waters were mineral waters hot minerai Its hot Its which castellany, a of seat was.the Vichy Ages, the Middle the Middle Ages, the seat of a castellany, which -n Vichybywas Bourbon' of Bourbon. house of the house of the Pierre 1I of acquired in JnU was acquired 344 by Pierre was monastery Celestine monastery founded aa Celestine l41l founded II, inin 1411 Louis Il, His son, son, Louis His its of its virtue of the virtue propagated the who propagated monks, who these monks, to these and itit isis 10 and wars' religious wars, The religious fame' The its fame. owes its partly owes Vichy partly that Vichy waters, that waters, its arrested its great deal, deal, arrested suffered aa great town su/fered this town which this from which from to began to fame began its fame Henri IV ilS of Henri reign of the reign progress, but but inin the progress,

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of dried,

pressed

roe

Preparation BOUTARGUE BOUT ARGUE -- Preparation of dried, pressed -mullet mullet roe Pj-o-v-e-$:' be bought ready-made' It is a speciality 9f It can be that boughl ready-made. It is a speciality of Provençe. "t ""tt instructioni on how to make it see HORS-D'(EUVRE' For For instructions on how to make it see HORS-D'ŒUVRE. title in the olden days was BOUTEILLER (Charge de)-This BOUTEILLER (Charge de)This title in the olden days was gin.n to the man in chirge of the wine cellar of the king' of a given ta the man in charge of the wine cellar of the king, of a or some other gieat aristocrat' At the court of the irince, or prince, sorne otherpoit greatwas aristocrat. At the of the high*anking by court always- held the ii"gt-Lf France the postword was al ways held by high-ranking kings of France in fact is which bouteiller.Today the g""Ti.-.n. gentlemen. Today theis word bouteillerwith - which in fact is (wine sommelier synonymous .rr.d fiardly hardly ever used - is synonymous with sommelier (wine "u", waiter). waiter). BOUTER French term for wine that has turned sour' BOUTER - -French term for wine Ibat has turned sour. BOUT-SAIGNEUX The neck of a calf or a sheep' BOUT -SAIGNEUX - -The neck of a calf or a sheep. wotd bouvillon is applied to a young BOUVILLON Theword BOUVILLON -.-The first bouvillon is applied to a young milk-tooth' steer until it loses its steer until it loses ilS first milk-tooth. One of the greatest and most highly regarded BOUZY One BOUZY of the greatest and most highly regarded vineyards of Champagne. ts black Pinot grapes made into vineyards of Champagne. the Its best black Pinot grapes made into red into Made Champagne. contribuieio wiire whiie white wine contribute toathe best Champagne. Made intamuch red wine' fruity natural delicious, gives wine, this grape wine, Ihis grape gives a delicious, natural fruit y wine, much good esteerned by gourmets. It is best drunk young' !1!ln a esteemed by gourmets. Il is best drunk young, but in a good year it maturls admirably; the wine growers of Champagne year it matures admirably; the wine growers of Champagne itaue.ome splendid bottles in their cellars' have sorne splendid boules in their cellars. Intestines of slaughtered animals' BOWELS. BoYAux BOWELS. BOYAUX - Intestines of slaughtered animaIs. (q'v') Pigs' intestines are mainly used for making andauilles Pigs' intestines are mainly used for ma king andouilles (q.v.) andouillettes (q.v.). The smallest ones are used as aid and andol.li/lelles (q.v.). The smallesl ones are used as

ry

and mineral and of minerai administration of geneialadministration 1605 aa general in 1605 tp.t-uO. In spread. became Vichy and France, in created was waters medicinal medicinal waters was created in France, and Vichy became 1648' itsheadquarters headquarters inin 1648. ils seventhesevengrewduring during the water grew Vichywater ofVichy pbpularityof Thepopularity The protecled its XIV protected Louis XIV centuries. Louis eighieenthcenturies. andeighteenth teenthand teenth 1ts who S6vign6, who deSévigné, Madame de ofMadame lettersof theletters fortune,lnd earlyfortune. and the early risetoto itsrise completedilS 1677,completed and1677, 1676and cureinn1676 foraacure th"r"for *"nt there went hospital' Vichyhospital. theVichy endowed the XVendowed LouisXV success.InIn171716 success. 16 Louis undergone having undergone Victoire,having andVictoire, Adelaideand aunts,Adelaide XVI'saunts, LouisXVl's Louis replace establishment totoreplace newestablishment builta anew treatment,built successful treatment, successful lMaison du Roi'. In 1853, the mineral modest iir,existing modest 'Maison du Roi'. In 1853. the minerai the "*irting company' grantedtotoa acompany. wasgranted concessionwas waters waters concession stews; andSiews; matelotesand Freshwatermaleloles specialities- Freshwater Qufinaryspecialities Culinary pies;sheeps' shee,ps' meatpies; Moulinmeal andMoulin Montlugonand pikeà dlatacrème; irCie; pike Montluçon 't6ngues locally; oyonnadelocally; goosestew calledoyonnade srewcalled turnips;goose withturnips; longues with rather millias,rather pie;mihior mihiororormil/ias, potatopie; grattons;potato pompeaux auxgrallons; pompe pantarts;panchenytarts; Languedoc;cherry madeininLanguedoc; onemade theone simitartotothe similar gdteaux; peargâteaux; locally;pear sauciauxlocally; calledsal.lciaux arecalled whichare cakeswhich cakes tarte andtarte brioche;and pie;Gannat Gannatbrioche; potatopie; kindofofpotata gounerue,a akind gounerre,

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the whichthe forwhich cheesecakefor countrycheesecake pleaiantcountry iourbonnaise,a apleasant bourbonnaise, with bowlwith cheeseinin creamcheese freshcream Poundfresh follows:Pound is as recipeisas recipc follows: a abowl tableand4 4tablefreshbutter butterand cup)fresh oz.,ct fcup) eggs, fine'salt,4 fine salt, 4 eggs, 5050g. g.(2Qoz.,

l4l

141

BOWL ~OWL

Bowls Bowls (Nicolas) (ir'icolas)

casings for sausages. Fat intestines are used casings used in prepara_ in the prepara_for tion of Lyons sausages. tion ofLyons Pigs'intestines Pigs' intestines are divided divided into two categories: categories: the big and and the the small. smal!. Before Before being being used used pigs, pigs' intestines intestines should should be be prepared prepared and cleaned c\eaned with minute minute care. care.

Water 69·10 cent Water 69.10 per per cent Nitrogenous Nitrogenous substances substances \3·26 13.26 percent percent Fatty Fatty substances substances 16·23 16.23 per per cent cent Extractive cent Extractive substances substances 0·12 per cent 0.12 per Ash 0·19 per cent Ash 0.19 per cent It also tains phosphorated lecithin It also con contains phosphorated fats fats similar similar to to the the lecithin of egg yolk. yolk. of egg The weight of from 450 g. to 700 g. The weight of an an ox ox brain brain varies varies from 450 g. to 700 g. (1 lb. lb. to to l* It lb.); that of of aa calfs from 250 g. to 300 g. (1 lb.); that calfs brain brain from 250-9. to 300;. (9 oz. oz. to to ll II oz.); oz.); that that of lamb's lamb's or or sheep's brain about 100 g. (9 sheep's brain a-bout 100 i. (4 oz.); the the weight weight of of^ofa a pig's pig's brain is about 150 g. (5 oz.). (4 brain is about 150 g. (5 ozj. -o2.,): (The last is is rarely rarely used used in in cooking.) cooking.) (The last Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged and Whatever the recipe, brains must be well purged in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). For the various methodsand of cooked in cooked For the various meihods of preparation see OFF AL or VARIETY MEATS. preparation see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS. BRAISE. BRATSER BRAISER - To cook various foods by braising in a BRAISE. cook various foods by braising in a - To daubière special utensil utensil called called aa daubiire (q.v.), or a braising pan. special (q.v.), or a braising p;. BRAISAGE Method which can be applied to BRAISING. BRAISING. BRATsAcE - Method which can be applied to addiilg most food food substances, substances, cooked cooked in an airtight pan, most pan.- addiire in an to braising very little little liquid. liquid. Instructions Instructions relevantairtight will he very relevant to braiiing wifl bJ in the the section section entitled entitled CULINARY METHODS. found in found CULINARY METHODS. BRAISING PAN. PAN. nnels$nr BRAISIÈRE - Utensil made of tinned BRAISING made of tinned - Utensilcast-iron, copper, nickel, nickel, aluminium, aluminium, enamelled earthencopper, enamelled cast_iron, earthen_ ware and fireproof porcelain. ware and fireproof porcelain. In restaurant restaurant terminology, tenninology, the word braisière is applied In the word braisidre is applied any kind kind ofofaastock, stock, made out of various meat trimmings toto any made out of various meat trimminss of basic sauces. This and bones, used for the preparation and bones, used for the preparation of basic ThIs stock isis used used instead instead of estouffade (q.v.) and sauces. c\ear beef or stock of estouffade (q.v.) clear beef or vealstock, stock,which which should properly be used and for the moistening veal should properly be used for the moistening roux(q.v.), (q.v.),asas is white consommé. ofofroux is white consomm6.

BOWL. BOwt. soIBOL -- Term Term used used for for basins basins of ofvarying capacity, made made varying capacity, porcelain, earthenware, of ofporcelain, earthenware, glass glass or or metal. meta!. They They aie are sometimes sometimes used used in in France France for for hot hot drinks (coffee, (coffee, chocolate or tea tea with milk) at breakfast. breakfast. milk) served served at The 'punch bowf bowl' is is applied applied to to aa bigger bigger receptacle receptacle The term term 'punch usually usually made made of of silver, silver, in in which which punch punch and and mulled mulled wine wine are are prepared. bol also also applies applies to to china, china, glass glass prepared. In In French French the the word word bol or or metal metal finge1 finger bowls bowls put put before before guests guests after after serving servingfish, fish, or ofaa meal. meal. In In the the past, past, porcelain, porcelain, pottery, pottery, silver sil ver or at at the the end end of and and even ev en gold gold basins basins were were used used for for this this pu.poie. purpose. Thby They were were sometimes be found found in in antique antique sometimes set set in in stands, stands, which which can can still still be shops. shops. It1t must must be be remembered remem bered that that until until the the middle middle of of ihe the sixteenth at table, table, and and that that itit sixteenth century, century, forks forks were were not not used used at

was was customary customary for for two two people people to to eat eat out out of of one one bowl. bowl. ItIt was was therefore therefore essential essential to to have have washing washing arrangements arrangements for for the theguests guestsininthe theroom room where where the themeals meals were were served. served.

BRABANQONNE BRABANÇONNE(A (ALA) LA)-- Garnish Garnishofofchicory chicoryand and potato potato croquettes croquettes for for large large pieces pieces of of meat. meaL The The garnish garnish iJis often often supplemented hopshoots shootscooked cookedininbutter butterororcream. cream. supplementedby byhop BRAIN. BRAIN.cERvELLE CERVELLE-- Culinary Culinaryterm termfor forthe thebrain brain substance substance ofofedible edibleanimals. animaIs. The Thebrain brainisis rich richininvitamins vitamins and and phos_ phos-

phorus, nourishment inin pro_ prophorus,and and provides providesaagreat greatdeal deal ofofnourishment portion portiontotoitsitsvolume. volume.

142 142

BREAD BREAD

Braising Braisingpan pan (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phol. Lnrousse\ Larousse)

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- Prickly Prickly bush bush whose whose be used used to to make make syrup and and jam' jam. The The young young berries can can be berries shoots can be be eaten like asparagus. asparagus. BRAN. SON - Outer casing casing of of the the grain, grain, which which is is separated separated BRAN; soN from the the flour by milling. BRANDADE - Method Method of of preparing preparing pounded pounded salt salt cod, cod, which is is very very popular in in Languedoc and and Provence. Provence. It It is is slowly flavoured flavoured with-garlic, with garlic, and and is is prepared prepared by by cooking cooking slowly and stirring vigorously over moderate lieat heat and vigorously and and constantly constantly same heat with aa wooden spoon, maintaining the the same heat throughthroughCOD, oil, little operation. Add out the operation. Add oil, little by by little. little. (See (See COD, out the of salt cod.) Brandade of Brandade

BRAMBLE (Blackberry). (Blackberry). noNct RONCE

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(See SPIRITS.) SPIRITS') from wine. (See distilled from BRANDEVIN BRANDEVIN -- Spirit distilled countryside goes about the countryside about the who goes BRANDEVINIER BRANDEVINIER -- Man who fruit. or fruit. marc or wine, marc from wine, his still still for distilling spirit from with rus

are cider are and cider beer and where beer Establishment where BRASSERIE -- Establishment in gteat many many in are aa great there are Breweries, of which there sold. Breweries, or sold. made or in not established established in were not regions, were in the eastern regions, Germany and in the of the middle of the middle until the parts of France until of France and other other parts Paris and Paris or caf6s or are cafés times are in modem modern times Brasseries in century. Brasseries nineteenth century. served. are served. and drink drink are food and where food restaurants where restaurants meetingas aa meetingserve as to serve used to of brasseries brasseries used types of Certain types Certain bohemians' and bohemians. letters and of letters men of artists, men politicians, artists, place for for politicians, place converted become converted either become have either which have tlie brasseries brasseries which Among the Among are altogether, are have disappeared disappeared altogether, or have else or something else into something into Nadar, Pelloquet, Pelloquet, with Nadar, associated with Martyrs, associated in rue rue des des Martyrs, those in those Baudelaire, I'Isle-Adam, Baudelaire, de l'Isle-Adam, Villiers de d'Anglemont, Villiers Privat d'Anglemont, Privat and Carjat. Carjat. Courbet and Courbet for centre for was aa centre time was one time which atat one Pousset, which Brasserie Pousset, Brasserie of journalists, became meeting-place of the meeting-place became the and journalists, men and literary men literary brasseries famous brasseries Other famous officials. Other colonial officiais. govetnment and and colonial government meet could meet one could where one du Petit-Poucet, Petit-Poucet, where Brasserie du the Brasserie were the were in Steinbach in Brasserie Steinbach and Brasserie Grenet-Dancourt; and and Grenet-Dancourt; Ponchon and Ponchon for aa to calI call for used to Mor6as used Jean Moréas where Jean Latin where the Quartier the Quartier Latin Mounet. Paul Mounet. or Paul Maindron or Maurice Maindron chat with with Maurice chat Lipp' today inin Lipp, Paris today survives inin Paris style survives The brasserie brasserie style The Passage the Passage Flo inin the Brasserie Flo charming Brasserie the charming and the Bofinger, and Bofinger, Petites-Ecuries. des Petites-Ecuries. des

the bertholettia, bertholettia, of the Fruit of DUBRÉSIL sREstr- - Fruit NoD(DU NUT.NOIX BRAZIL N1JT. BRAZIL to sometimes to Brazil, sometimes and Brazil, growsinin Paraguay Paraguay and which grows tree which aa tree asAmerican American known as alsoknown The nut nutisisalso (114 feet) height.The feet)ininheight. m.(114 35 35m. Portuguese calledlvia;the America ititisiscalled South chestnut.InInSou chestnut. th America juvia; the Portuguese maranon. demaranon. castenas de callititcastenas cal1 hard; andhard; brown and edges, isisbrown sharpedges, threesharp hasthree which has Itssheil, shell, which Its hazelnut' andhazelnut. coconutand flavour totococonut similar ininflavour kernel isissimilar whitekernel thewhite the

BREAD. BREAD. PAIN PAIN-- Dough Doughmade made ofofflour flour and and water, water, fermented fermented and and baked. baked. as a then meal, Cereals Cereals were were first first used used in in the the form form of of meal, then as a honey, oil, with flour or meal of mixture a from made cake cake made from a mixture of me al or flour with honey, oil, sweet sweetwine, wine, various various grains, grains, fruit fruit and and meat, meat. introduced The The Hebrews, Hebrews, the the Egyptians Egyptians and and the the Chinese Chinese introduced without flat fiat cakes cakes made made of of flour flour and and water water dough, dough, baked baked without an no doubt bread, fermented of The leaven. discovery leaven. The discovery of fermented bread, no doubt an used the accidental accidentai one, one, isis attributed attributed to to the the Egyptians, Egyptians, who who used the previous breadleaven of sour sour dough, dough, left left over over from from the the previous breadleaven of flour and making, must of of grapes, grapes, kneaded kneaded with with flour and making, and and the the must in the sun. dried dried in the sun. quickly did not The The use use of of fermented fermented bread bread spread spread quickly but but did not flat cakes, supersede supersede the the old old method method of of making making unleavened unleavened fiat cakes, In the middle thi Roman soldiers. soldiers. In the middle the only only bread bread known known to to the the Roman these flat cakes were used trenchers, name of the under ages, ages, under the name of trenchers, these flat cakes were used eaten instead of plates plates for for cutting cutting up up meat; meat; they they were were then then eaten instead of or or thrown thrown to to the the poor. poor. which must be Making Making bread bread commercially commerciaUy -- The The flour, fIour, which must be goes through a milling, after days 15 kept for at least kept for at least 15 days after milling, goes through a it with yeast kneading operation, which which consists consists of of mixing mixing it with yeast kneading operation, and and moistening moistening itit with with water. water. (alcohol The The leaven, leaven, which which gives gives the the dough dough the the ferments ferments (alcohol for transforming necessary fungus) associated and barm barm and associated fungus) necessary for transforming from a sugar sugar into into alcohol alcohol and and carbon carbon dioxide, dioxide, is is taken taken from a yeasts. previous or is is aa mixture mixture of of yeasts. previous kneading, kneading, or The flour is Kneading Kneading with with yeast yeast is is the the usual usual method' method. The flour is yeast put put in in a a bowl, bowl, a a well weil made made in in the the centre, centre, yeast and and warm warm 4 or 55 water water added, added, and and the the mixture mixture left left to to ferment ferment for for 4 or 'refreshed' It is hours, is then then 'refreshed' by by hours, to to form form the the 'main 'main leaven'. leaven'. It 'first leaven'. equal weight adding an adding an equal weight of of flour flour to to obtain obtain the the 'first leaven'. flour is More More flour is added added later later to to obtain obtain the the 'second 'second leaven' leaven' or or of of the or aa third represents half tout point, tout point, which which represents ha If or third of the batch batch of loaves. 10aves. is added, addedt flour is remaining flour the remaining kneading, the final kneading, During the the final During water. This wann, salted salted water. with warm, is moistened moistened with and the the dough dough is and This (kneading) and is followed by contreand is is cali calledy'ase operation is operation ed jrase (kneading) followed by contre(secnnd kneading), is very hard work when done which is kneading), which frase (second very hard work when done lump, into one one lump, dough into the dough moulding the by hand. hand. It It consists consists of of moulding by stretching dividing, stretching it to to subside, subside, dividing, leaving it it to rise, allowing allowing it to rise, leaving and all these operations lot again again -- and one lot and kneading kneading it it into into one and ail these operations quickly. In In modern modern establishments establishments they very quickly. have to be done done very to be have they kneaders. in mechanical are done are done in mechanical kneaders. in aa left to stand it is is completed, kneading is completed, it is left to stand in When the the kneading When a cloth. with covered kneading trough kneading trough covered with a cloth. more taste and has has more whiter and leaven isis whiter with leaven Bread kneadcd kneaded with Bread taste yeast. with diluted diluted yeast. only with kneaded only than bread bread kneaded than dioxide released carbon the ofleaven, the action action of leaven, the released carbon dioxide Through the Through its original original double its reaches double puffs up When itit reaches dough. When up the the dough. puffs sprinkled underside isis sprinkled loaves, the the underside into loaves, divided into volume, itit isis divided volume, ground maize finely ground flour or or finely rice flour with wholemeal wholemeal fiflour, with our, rice maize put in oven. in the (corn meal) the oyen. loaves put the loaves meal) and and the (corn (425" and 220"and and 300°C. 300"C. (425° and to between between 220° heated to The oyen oven isis heated The the of whole surface the as to sear way in a such 575"F.), 575°F.), in such a way as to sear the whole surface of the ferment. to ferment. continues to interior continues the interior while the immediately, while loaf immediately, loaf forms holes holes in the bread dough, forms the dough, swells the Carbon dioxide dioxide swells Carbon in the bread the inside temperature When the to bulge. bulge. When thesurface surface to and causes causes the and inside temperature into (l40oF.), the transformed into the starch starch isis transformed reaches 60°C. 60"C. (140°F.), reaches temperature the temperature when the ceases when Fermentation ceases starch-paste. Fermentation starch-paste. temperature (176"F.). When inside temperature the inside When the goes up 80"C. (176°F.). up toto 80°C. goes (212"F.), the loses a large proportion crustloses the crust 100'C.(212°F.), ieaches 100°C. reaches a large proportion evaporation. byevaporation. of water water by of (which will have gone oven(which theoyen of the temperature of thetemperature When the When will have gone putiuto reaches 200'C. it) reaches into it) was being beingput the bread bread was while the down while down 200°C. is then injected steam Water roasted. (400'F.) the starchisisroasted. Water steam is then thestarch (400°F.) injected prevent formation the water) totoprevent the withwater) (or the sprayed with ovenisissprayed theoyen formation (or according to variesaccording time varies The baking baking time crust.The thickaacrust. oftoo too thick of to loaves. ofthe thesize sizeof the loaves. the r43 143

BREAD BREAD The total loss of water is proportional thesize sizeofofthe the The total loss of water is proportional totothe loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (2.2tb.) bread, lt40 g. (2.5 lb.) dough loaf; to obtain 1000 g. (2·2 lb.) bread, 1140 g. (2,5 lb.) dough will be needed for loaves of 4 kg. (8.8 lb.) and 1670g. (3.71b.) will be needed for loaves of 4 kg. (8,8 lb.) and 1670 g. (3,7 lb.) for loaves of I kg. (2'21b.). for loaves of 1 kg. (2-2 lb.). If the fermentation of the dough is excessive, carbon If the fermentation of the dough is excessive, carbon dioxide is released before the loaves are placed in the oven, dioxide is released before the loaves are placed in the oven, and the bread will be heavy and compact, with a cavity and the bread will be heavy and compact, witb a cavity

between the crumb and the crust. between the crumb and the crust. Alcohol, which forms during fermentation, evaporates Alcobol, which forms during fermentation, evaporates during baking as well as carbon dioxide, which continues during baking as weil as carbon dioxide, which continues to be released during cooling. A condensation of steam to be released during cooling. A condensation of steam takes place during this cooling-off period newlybaked baked takes place during this cooling-off period inin newly bread, which then begins to look greasy and shiny. bread, which then begins to look greasy and shiny. of bread - A good quality loaf should have a Qualitiesof QuaIities bread - A good quality loaf should have a pale yellow or light brown bottom crust and a golden yellow pale yellow or light brown bottom crust and a golden yellow or light brown top crust, which should be thick, domed, and or light brown top crust, which should be thick, domed, and resonant when tapped. Both the crusts should adhere to the resonant when tapped. Both the crusts should adhere to the and together equal one-fifth of the weight of the 9rupb, and crumb, together equal one-fifth of the weight of the loaf (the thicker the crust, the less water there is in a loafl. loaf (the thicker the crust, the water there is in a loaf). If the crusts ofa slice of bread less are pressed together the slice If the crusts of a slice of bread are pressed together the slice should quickly regain its original shape. should quickly regain its original shape. The crumb should be homogenous, without any white or The crumb should be homogenous, without any white or yellowish lumps, without grey, red or black spots; it should yellowish lumps, without grey, red black spots; it should not stick to the fingers; the holesor in it should be uneven, uneven, not stick to the fingers; tbe boles in it should be not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dough), nor not too big (which is a sign of badly kneaded dougb), nor (which too small is a sign of insufficient fermentation); the too small (which is a sign of insufficient fermentation); the smell should be sweet, the taste clean and pleasant. taste clean and pleasant. smell sbould be sweet, the Too white a crumb is a sign of rice flour having been Too white a crumb is a sign of rice Bour having been added; greyish-brown crumb shows that rye or bucliwheat added; greyish-brown crumb shows that rye or buckwheat

flour has been added. Bour bas been added.

If kept for long time, time, bread bread becomes becomes stale, stale, the the crumb crumb If kept for aa long dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due solely to dries up and the crust grows soft. This is not due solely to the loss of water (stale bread contains only about I per ient the loss of water (stale bread con tains only about 1 per cent

lesswater watertban thanfresh freshbread), bread),but buttotoa apartial partialtransformation transformation less of starchinto intodextrine. dextrine.By Byheating (whichcauses heatingstale stalebread bread(which causesitit ofstarch lose3 3per percent centofits of itswater watercontent) content)a adistillation distillationprocess processisis totolose achieved; moisture moisturefrom fromthecrust the crustpenetra penetrates thicrumb, crumb, achieved; tes the givingit,it,for fora ashort shorttime, time,the theappearance appearanceoffresb of freshbread. bread. giving Varieties of. ofbread bread- - InInFrance, France,ordinary ordinaryororhousehold household Varieties bread(pain ordinaire,ororpain paindedeménage) minaie)islong is longand Qtainordinaire, and bread cylindricalininshape, shape,fiattened flattenedon onthe thetop, top,and andslashed slashedwith with cylindrical slantingororparallel parallelmarkings, markings,The Theboulot boulotororbouleau bouleauloafis loafisthe slanting the sameshape, shape, but butBoured flouredon ontop. top.The Thepolka polkaloaf toafisislong longoror same round, witb withaahard hardcrust, crust,slashed slashedwith withlozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped round, decorations.AAsplit splitloaf joining two loafisismade madeby byjoining longloaves twolong loaves decorations. tqgether; ititisisthicker thicker and andhas hasless lesscrust. crust.The Theround roundloaf loafisisof of tQgether; thetradition traditional round shape, shape,the theupper uppercrust crusthaving havingaadomed domed the al round top;the thecrown crownloaf, loaf,asasits itsname nameimplies, implies,isiscircular circular ininform. form. top; Fancyloaves, loaves,sold soldby pieceand bythe the piece andnot not by byweight, weight,are Fancy are made out out of of highest qualityfiour highest quality flour and andshaped shapedeither either into into made batons, with with aagolden golden brown brown or orfioured floured surface, surfice,ororinto into fiat batons, flat loaves or orsmall small rolls rollsof various shapes. ofvarious shapes. loaves T.he Vienna Vienna loaf loaf isis kneaded kneaded with with aacertain quantity of certain quantity The of milk. The The tin tin or pan loaf, or pan loaf,square-shaped square-shaped with with at very lr.ry thin milk. thin crust, isis used used in in France France mainly mainly for for toast, toast,canapés, canapis, garnish girnish crust, crottons and and sandwiches. sandwiches. croûtons On the the borderline borderline between between the the domains domains of of bakery bakery and On and pastry-making we we have have brioche brioche dougb dough loaves loaves and puffpastry and puff pastry-making pastry croissants. crû issan ts. Bread containing containing sorne some or or all all of of the the bran germ of bran and and genn Bread of the the grain and and endospenn endosperm isis theoretically theoretically more more nutritive, nuiritive, but grain but being less less easily easily assimilated assimilated by by the the intestines, intestines, the the advantages being advantages are rather rather problematical. problematical. are Wholemeal bread bread isis made made from from meal meal containing containing the Wholemeal the the entire entire wheat wheat grain. grain. In In sorne some parts parts of of Germany the Germany very very dark dark (pumpernickel) isis made bread (pumpernickel) made of of coarse coarse unbolted unbolted rye. bread rve.

i &

t

I

Bread Breadwedges wedges(Nrcolas) (Nicolas)

t44 144

BREAD BREAD

Unleavened bread bread ((Larousse) Iar ousse'l Unleavened

bread ordinary bread French ordinary Eight varieties of French (Maison Syda. Larousse) Phot. Larousse) Syda. Phol. (Maison

manufor the the manuto for resorted 10 flour was was resorted extracted flour higher extracted of higber of for the the flour for artificially-bleached Bour and artiticiaIly-bleached 'rich' bread bread and facture of of 'rich' facture other kinds. kinds. other so bread, so white bread, excessively white principal drawback of excessively drawback of The principal The practically uneatable uneatable ifif present, isis tbat that itit isis practically popular at at present, popular its dietetic dietetic Besides, its hours. Besides, few hours. than aa few for more more than stored for stored people to people harmful to and undoubtedly undoubtedly itit isis harmful qualities are nil and are nïl qualities digestions. delicate digestions. with delicate with with made with bread made or dietary dietary bread natural or there isis natural Fortunately there Fortunately means fire by which means by which wood tire over aa wood yeast and stone over on stone and baked baked on yeast retained. food isis retained. goodness of staple food of this this staple the goodness the

Wheaten flour is used for fine bread, bread, but in many countries Wheaten bread made rye is is the principal bread bread grain. Barley bread, bread, bread rye and made and be made from aa mixture of barley barley and to be used to and wheat, used as can can be be very coarse, as was very time, but it was fresh for aa long time, kept fresh 'as coarse as judged from the as barley bread', because saying'as the saying iitt is ddifrcult ifficu 1t to hhull ull barley. has aa whole rye, rye, has Rye bolted whole cent bolted 15 per cent of 15 made of bread, made Rye bread, of rye rye heavy, compact texture; bread made out mixture of of aa mixture out of is well and and is and wheat (one part rye to three parts wheat) keeps weil sold ty bread. quality as quali sold as gluten Gluten has gluten diabetics, has for diabetics, manufactured .for Gluten bread, bread, manufactured 210 per added per cent starch' cent starch. to 40 up to it containS contains up added to the dough; it Unleavened bread, ordinary bread, than ordinary used than less used much less bread isis much Unleavened bread though served example, itit isis served for example, Sweden for countries, Sweden in sorne some countries, though in with w]rth hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Adulteration to prevalent method method isis to most prevalent The most bread -- The of bread Adulteration of possible, retain as possible, bread as the bread in the water in proportion of of water great aa proportion as great retain as but use the use practices, involving involving the fraudulent practices, are other other fraudulent there are but there 'imof va-rious 'imadding various and adding gluten content, content, and poor in grain poor in gluten of grain proving thus flour, thus products -- to to the the flour, chemical products proving agents' agents' -- chemical rendering process, condemned condemned This process, easier. This bread-making easier. iendering bread-making by disthe dislittle to to the not aa !ittle contributed not has contributed nutritionists, has all nutritionists, by aIl favour dieticians. held by by dieticians. in which which bread bread isis held favour in Digestibility and used, and which isis used, food which Bread isis aa food of bread bread -- Bread Digestibility of abused, For France. For especially inin France. any other, other, especiaUy than any more than abused, more many, and are taugbt taught -- and childrenare which children food, which staple food, the staple many, itit isis the forced the circles the many circles food; inin many other food; all other with ail eat with to eat forced -- to quantity all ofaIl thatof volume that in volume exceeds in consumed exceeds quantity of of bread bread consumed other put together. together. foods put other foods Good excellent quantities isisan anexcellent moderate quantities bread taken taken inin moderate Good bread food, quantities' excessive quantities. consumed ininexcessive not be beconsumed should not food, but but itit should The because both because crumb, both the crumb, than the digestible tban more digestible The crust crust isis more being andbecause because greater care, care,and withgreater chewedwith to be bechewed has to harditit has being hard one bread isis toasted bread reason' toasted same reason, thesame For the less of of it.it. For eatsless one eats better us be chew itit forcedtotochew beforced will ththus whowill for dyspeptics, dyspeptics, who better for more over-eat. lesstempted tempted totoover-eat. will be beless andwill more tboroughly thoroughly and The the andthe crustand thecrust ofthe composition of thecomposition difference inin the The difference crumb content. greaterwater watercontent. latter's greater thelatter's liesmainly mainlyininthe crumb lies There worst theworst bread,the prejudicesconcerning concerning bread, arevarious various prejudices Thereare being been This,having having been bread.This, forwhite whitebread. preference for thepreference being the reserved always goneby, wasalways by,was timesgone classes inintimes richerclasses for the thericher reserved for coveted theuse use them,the Tosatisfy satisfythem, classes.To favouredclasses. lessfavoured bythe theless coveted by

p.cIN EN nN DIÉTÉTIQUEodrfrIQus IN DIETETICS. DIETETICS. PAlN BREAD IN BREAD agreement wholly ininagreement not whoIly are not Dieticians are bread -- Dieticians Wholemeal bread Wbolemeal they but they bread, but wholemeal bread, of wholemeal value of nutritive value the nutritive concerning the concerning present bread atatpresent the white white bread that the in recognising recognising that are unanimous unanimous in are when food itit was waswhen idealfood the ideal no longer longer the sale commercially commercially isis no on on sale (and not rollers), not by by rollers), stone-ground (and flours stone-ground wheat flours with wheat made made with (and not withcbemical chemical not with leavenings (and prepared with natural leavenings with natural prepared (notan an oil-fired oil-fired oven(not wood-fired oyen and cooked cooked inin aa wood-tired ones), ones), and one). one). ideal stillthis thisideal hand,isisstill other hand, theother on the bread,on Wholemeal Wholemeal bread, wholereally wholethatititisisreally ensure that mustensure consumer must food. But But the theconsumer food. mixed flour mixed ordinaryBour withordinary madewith not bread breadmade and not meal meal bread bread and orsorne some wheatgennor 'enriched'with evenbread bread 'enriched' oreven with with wheatgerm with bran, bran, or ingredient. such such ingredient. pure wheat wheat withpure madewith properbread thatmade breadisis that The The only only proper percent, cent, 95per percent and95 centand (between90 90per preferablybolted bolted(between Bour, flour,preferably on bakedon yeastand andbaked naturalyeast with natural percent), leavenedwith atatbest besi80 80per cent),leavened woodtire. fire. stone stoneover overaawood tolerate systemstolerate digestivesystems notaIl allstomachs stomachsorordigestive However, not However, important maybe. be.ItItisisimportant thoughititmay excellent though wholemeal wholemealbread, bread, excellent forthe the morefor doesmore breaddoes wholemealbread toto note notethat thatsince sincewholemeal rationcan can dailyration theusual usualdaily bread, the ordinary bread, organism thanordinary organism than wholemealbread bread more.Also Alsothat thatwholemeal thirdorormore. be uced by reduced byaathird trered dishes,oror highlyspiced spiceddishes, meats,highly govery wellwith withmeats, does notgo veryweil doesnot a1coholic alcoholicbeverages. beverages. anda a breadand wholemealbread According dieticians,wholemeal thedieticians, Accordingtotothe ideal. theideal. basically dietisistbe vegetarian diet basicallyvegetarian

We BREAD- - We GOODBREAD METHODS MAKINGGOOD FORMAKING METHODSFOR recipes. Edlinrecipes. give, threeEdlin quotingfrom give,quoting fromCarême, Car0me, three gastronomicallywiththeir theirgastronomically'Cooks,' 'whotravel travelwith writes,'who 'Cooks,' hehewrites,

145 145

BREADCRUMBS BREADCRUMBS minded masters can, from now on, by following this method, mÎnded masters can, from now on, by following this method, procure fresh bread every day.' procure fresh bread every day.' Ordinary method. MÉTHODE mirnoon ORDINAIRE oRDTNATRE - - 'Put Z*kg. 'put2! lb., Ordinsry methoo. kg. (5(5 lb.,

Gonesse, having having been questioned juridically on the reasons beanquestioned Gonesse, for the the superior quality of superior quality of their their bread, attributed it to the for water they they used preparation. used ininits its preparation. water Plaitd bread. bread"NATTE NArrE - - Bread Bread baked baked in inthe plait. the form formof ofaaplait. PhLiied pArN POUR pouR POTAGES porAGEs - This Breadfor for soops. soups.PAIN bread, which which Bread - This bread, made inin the the shape of of aa long long thin roll and thin roll and isis sold sold only only inin isis made big Paris Paris bakeries, prepared of bakeries, is prepared of dough dough very very rich gluten. rich inin gluten. big These rolls rolls are are cut cut into into thîn thin slices slices and and dried dried in in the the oyen, oveno Or or These theycan can be becut cut and and hollowed hollowed out (See out inin various variousshapes. shapes. (See they cRoorEs.) CROÛTES.) pArN AZYME Unleavened bread. bread" PAIN AzyME -- Tbe The Book Book of of Exodus Exodus Unleovened tells us us that that in in lheir their haste haste to to leave leave Egypt Egypt the the Jews Jews forgot forgot 10 to tells yeast with bring yeast with them, them, and and that that for for aa long long time time aCter after that that they had to to eat eat unleavened unleavened bread. bread. The Israelites Israelites perpetuated the the memory memory of privation of thls this nn'V
20 cups) flour themixing mixing trough. Make Make aaweil well in in the themiddle middle 20 cups) fiour inin the and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. Moisten with warm water and and put in 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast. with warm water and mix until until the the consistency of of brioche brioche dough dough isis reached, reached, mix kneading well and adding 50 g. (2 o2.,3 tablespoons) fine salt, kneading well and adding g. (2 oz., 3 tablespoons) fine salt, diluted in in aahttle little warm warm water. water. Cover put in Cover and place inaawarm warm place and put diluted to ferment and rise. to ferment and fise.

'After having left left the the dough dough in in this this condition condition for for an an hour hour 'After or two, two, knead it aga again, then coyer cover and and leave leave for for another another or in, then hours. 22 hours. 'Divide the the dough dough into parts and into 88 equa\ equal parts and shape shape inlo into loaves. loaves. 'Divide Put them them in in aa hot quickly as hot oven oven as possible. When as quickly as possible. When baked, baked, Put rub the crust with a little butter, to make it golden.' rub the crust with a little butter, to make it golden.'.put French rolled loaf. pArN FRAN9ATs EN RouLEAu 2t kg. kg. French l'oUed loaf. PAIN fRANÇAlS EN ROULEAU -- 'Put 2* (5 lb., 20 cups) sieved flour into a kneading trough. Knead it (51b., 20 cups) sieved flour into a kneading trough. Knead it with generous litre (2 pints, 2f pints) milk, 250 g. (8 oz., I cup) with generous litre (2 2~ pints) milk, 250 (8 OZ., 1 wann butter, 60 60 g.g. (2t oz.) yeast and oz.) yeast (2 oz and 50 g. (2 oz., warm butter, .• 3 tablespoons) salt. When all the ingredients have been mixed, tablespoons) salt. When all the Ingredients have mixed, knead with a sufficient quantity of hot water. Mix well, cover, knead with a sufficien t quan tily of hot wa 1er. Mix well, cover, and leave for 2 hours. Shape into rolls, put them on baking and leave for 2 hours. Shape ioto rolls. put them on baking trays and leave in a warm place to rise for an hour. Bake in a trays and leave in a warm place to r1se for an hOUI. Bake in a very hot oven for 20 minutes.' hot oyen for 20 minutes,' plns i ul lrnRrNe, A r.l. Loaf ài la la terrine terrine or grecque. PAlN or ài la la grecque. À LA TERRJl'.'E, À LA cREceuE -'Put 2f, kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine flour GRECQUE - 'Put 2i kg. (5 lb., 20 cups) slightly warm fine fiour into aa big big mixing mixing bowl, bowl, also (2 oz.) also warm. warm. Add Add 50 50 g. (2 oz.) yeast, into 50 g. (2 tablespoons) salt quantity of salt and and aa "LHU...,.' sufficient .... "L 50, g. (2 oz., 33 lablespoons) water or or milk to to make make the dough rather the dough rather soft. soft. water 'Knead thoroughly, thoroughly, caver, cover, and keep in plae for and keep in aa warm warm place for 'Knead Divide into loaves and put these and put these into into buttered buttered 33 hours. hours. Divide into 88 loaves terrines. terrines. 'Bake in in aa very very hot When nearly baked, baked, rem remove ove 'Bake hot oven. aven. When from the terrines and on baking trap for aa few few minutes from the terrines and put put on baking trays minutes to little.' to let let them them brown brownpArN aa little.' Choim Cbome bread. bread. PAIN DE DE cHorNE CHOINE -- A A fine-textured fine-textured white white bread. salted bread, bread. It It was was once once a a salled bread. therefore therefore a a luxury, luxury, salt salt being being extremely extremely expensive expensive in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century. century. p.lnr Consecrated Consecrated bread. bread. PAIN sfxn BÉNIT -- Consecrated Consecrated bread, bread, which which is is distributed distributed in in churches churches of of big big towns, towns, is is most most frequently frequently made of fine brioche dough. made of fine brioche dough. In In the the country country the the dough dough for for consecrated consecrated bread bread is is made made like like brioche brioche dough, dough, using using the the following following ingredients: ingredients: I1 kg. kg. cups) (18 sieved flour, g. 500 2| cups) oz., butter, Q+1b.,9 (2* lb., 9 sieved flour, 500 (18 02., 2i cups) butter, 20 e.G oz.) brewer's yeast, I litre (scant pint, 2f cups) boiled 20 (j oz.) ~ litre pint, 2* cups) boiled milk and and aa pinch pinch of salt. pArN pArN Engfish tin loaf. loaf. PA1N ANGLATS, ANGLAlS, Drr DIT Aussr AUSSI PAIN DE DE MrE MIE English m or tin Used for crofftons, white breadcrumbs, etc., or for making Used for croûtons, white breadcrumbs, etc., or for making sandwiches, toast, or canapis served ashors-d'euvre. sandwiches, toast, or canapés serve
t46 146

BREDES BRÈDES

of of melted melted butter, butter, and and roll roll them them in in freshly freshly grated grated breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs à la la milanaise. milanaise. p.lNrn PANER A À LA Coat MTLANATSE MILANAISE - As As rià I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see below), below), but but adding adding oneonethird third of oftheir their volume volume of ofgrated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese to to the the breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs. Coat Coat with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. rANER PANER A À t'lNcLAIsn L'ANGLAISE -- To To dip dip various various foods foods -- escalopes, escalopes, fillets fillets of of fish, fish, cutlets, cutlets, etc. etc. in in aa mixture nUxture of of beaten beaten egg, egg, seasoned seasoned with with aa little little oil, oil, salt salt of food food are are and pepper, pepper, and and white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. The The items items of and then fried fried in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. then

-

i

u

-

Breadfruit Breadfruit

Prepared in in this way it it is is aa valuable valuable food, food, very very nutritious, nutritious, its taste recalling recalling that that of of freshly freshly baked baked bread, bread, with with aa slight sligbt hint of of artichoke artichoke and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke. artichoke. provide sufficient Two Two or three three of of these these trees, trees, itit is is claimed, claimed, provide sufficient food for one man man for for aa whole whole year. year. The The seeds seeds are are also also edible, edible, and and are are roasted roasted in in the the cinders cinders or or cooked cooked in in water water like Iike chestnuts, in size size and and taste. taste. chestnuts, which they resemble resemble aa little little in tree the iack Another species species of of the breadfruit breadfruit tree tree called called the jack tree has fruit fruit structurally resembling resembling the the breadfruit" breadfruit, and and is is eaten eaten greatly inferior scale, but on on aa vast scale, but it it is is greatly inferior to to the the real real breadbreadsmall is eaten ocrea is fruit in taste. taste. Its Its ocrea eaten like like chestnuts. cbestnuts. A A small fruit in genuine breadgreen ocrea quantity of fruit quantity fruit and the the green ocrea of of the the genuine breadare exported exported.. fruit tree fruit tree are and of milk Saucemade cookery)-- Sauce BX.EAD SAUCE SAUCE (English made of milk and BREAD @ngtish cookery) fried game' In England fried In England roast game. with roast It is is served with breadcrumbs. It sauce. as this time as same time at the the same served at usually served breadcrumbs are usually this sauce. breadcrumbs (See SAUCE.) (See

Breadfruit tree Breadfruit

plnl -- Genus Genus of of plants A PAIN ARBRE À BREADFRUIT TREE. ARBRE BREADFRUIT TREE. palm. It pakn and It isis aa raffia palm. and the the raffia which includes the the sago sago palrn which includes leaves. deeply divided divided leaves. and deeply beautiful soft timber timber and tree, witb with soft beautiful tree, cultivated and isis cultivated regions and Tbe of tropical tropical regions The tree tree isis aa native native of and in in the the archipelago and of the the Asiatic Asiatic archipelago throughout islands of throughout the the islands It attains attains aa regions. It equatorial regions. Pacific to the the equatorial islands close close to Pacific islands (50 to thick, and contains contains aa thick, heigbt to 65 65 feet) feet) and 15 to 20 m. m. (50 height of of 15 to 20 juice whicb glue. The The kind of of glue. into aa kind viscous, made into milky juice which isis made viscous, milky juice, which used by by the the the air, air, isis used exposure to to the juice, on exposure hardens on which bardens canoes. The The their canoes. to waterproof waterproof their natives Seas to natives of of the the South South Seas in the the building building used in very hard, hard, isis used timber, in spite not being being very spite of of not timber, in and out and beaten out fibrous inner inner bark bark isis beaten The fibrous of buts and ofhuts and canoes. canoes. The enormous reach enormous The Jeaves, leaves, which which reach made cloth. The into aa kind kind of of cIoth. made into for and roofing roofing for food and for food dimensions, as wrapping wrapping for dimensions, serve serve as as flowers are are used used as of the the male male f10wers dwellings. dried spikes spikes of dwellings. The The dried tinderwood. tinderwood. greenishof aa greenishand of round and Tbe large and and round The fruit fruit itself itself isis large food for for the the yellow colour; of food itern of important item yellow an important colour; itit isis an laxative taste, isis laxative islanders. ripe itit has has aa sweetish sweetish taste, When fully fully ripe islanders. When gathered before quickly. ItIt isis gathered goes bad before and bad quickly. and indigestible, indigestible, and and goes and white, mealy mealy and sb isis firm itit isis fully firm and and white, flesh fully ripe, ripe, when when the the fie qualities of of nutritive qualities almost ail all tbe the nutritive rich hasalmost rich inin starch, starch, and and has wheaten wheaten bread. bread. or hot coals, coals, or on hot toasted on ItIt isis cut or toasted and baked baked or cut inin slices slices and rather dark. dark. becomesrather baked outside skin skin becomes theoutside in the theoyen oven until until the baked in

Bream Bream

in appearance appearance fish, in freshwater fish, European freshwater BREAM. BRÈME sRitrffi -- European BREAM. (q.v.) can can given for carp (q.v.) for carp recipes given carp. AlI the recipes resembling the All the the carp. resembling (q.v.) and and for matelotes matelotes (q.v.) It isis mostly mostly used used for bream. It be applied applied to to bream. be fish stews. stews. fish (See restaurateur' (See Parisian restaurateur. BREBANT Famous Famous Parisian BRÉBANT DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS given in in sorne of the the old old (Creole cookery) Name given some of cookery) -- Name BRDDES (Créole BRÈDES leaves of of different different from leaves made from dish made to aa dish colonies to French colonies French cabbage, pumpkin shoots, shoots, cabbage, plants: watercress, of pumpkin watercress, tips tips of plants: Island; R6union Island; of Réunion speciality of This dish dish isis aa speciality lettuce. This spinach, lettuce. spinach, (see crCole (see Rdceàd .Ia with Rice and isis served served with very refreshing refreshing and la créole itit isis very RICE). RICE). leaves of of aa Trim the the leaves DE CHOU cHou -- Trim sRtnEs DE brides. BRÈDES Cabbage brèdes. Cabbage veins. Shred Shred c€ntre veins. the tough tough centre and remove remove the cabbage and white cabbage white asfor fot sauerkraut. sauerkraut. finely as finely golden. light golden. and fry fry until until itit isislight into strips strips and Cutsorne some bacon bacon into Cut chopped tomato. tomato. ginger and pounded ginger and aa chOPPed pinch of Add aa pincb of pounded Add

r47 147

BRESOLLES BRESOLLES Moisten with with aa little little water, water, simmer for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Put simmer for Put the the Moisten shredded cabbage cabbage into into this this sauce and cook sauce and cook for for about about 11 l| shredded hours. Serve (see RICE) .Riceàdla Serve Rice la créole uiole (see RICE) separately. separately. hours. Lettuce brèdes. brldes. BRÈDES sRioEs DE DE LAITUES LArruEs -- Wash Wash the leaves of Lettuce of the leaves cabbage lettuce lettuce and and cut cut them them lengthways. lengthways. Soak Soak in in cold cold cabbage water. Prepare Prepare in in the the same same manner manner as Watercress brèdes u Watercress brides water. (see below) less sauce below) but but use use less sauce and and allow allow shorter cooking time. shorter cooking (see time. Pump\in brèdes. brides. BRÈDES nntpss DE DE CITROUILLE crrRor.JrLLB -- Detach Detach the Pumpl9n the pumpkin shoot leaves of of pwnpkin shoot tips, tips, leaving leaving apiece a piece of of stalk stalk 1I cm. cm. leaves inch) long long on on each each leaf. leaf. Peel Peel off parts, offall and stringy skin and (1(* inch) ail skin stringy parts, and scrape green knots. scrape off off ail all green knots. Wash Wash carefully carefully and and leave and leave to to in cold soak in cold water. water. Drain. Drain. Put good fat Put sorne fat in in aa casserole, some good soak casserole, add sorne some diced diced bacon, bacon, and and brown brown aa chopped chopped onion in this onion in add this mixture. Add Add aa large, large, skinned, skinned, seeded quartered seeded- and mixture. and quartered tomato, and garlic and and sorne some salt, ginger, which salt, garlic and ginger, which have have been tomato, been pounded in in aa mortar. mortar. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. Add poùnded Add the the prepared pumpkin pumpkin shoots shoots and and simrner without adding simmer without adding water. prepared water. Spinrch brèdes. brldes. BRÈDES sRiDEs D'ÉPINARDS o'6plNlnos -- Prepare Prepare as Spinach as above, above, blanching the the spinach spinach before putting itit into before putting into the blanching the sauce. sauce. Watercress brèdes. brddes. BRÈDES sRtnEs DE DE CRESSON cREssoN -- Wash Watercress Wash and pick and pick over the the cress cress as as for for aa salad. (5 oz.) g. (5 salad. Fry Fry 150 150 g. oz) thickly over thickly sliced sliced bacon and and aa chopped chopped onion golden. Pound onion until until golden. Pound 22 garlic garlic bacon cloves, aa pinch pinch of ginger and of ginger and salt in aa mortar, salt in mortar, and cloves, and add add to to the the mixture, together with peeled, seeded with aa peeled, seeded and mixture, and sliced sliced tomato. Allow to brown for aa few moments, moments, then add add 11 l| large glasses AJlow of water. Boil down the sauce sauce slightly, slightly, and put in of in the cress cress to to simmer is done. done. Serve Serve with with plenty of sauce and sim mer until it is and hand hand (see RICE) separately. Ia créole criole (see separately. Rice àd la

(A LA) BRETONNE BRETONNE (À preparedàd lala bretonne LA) -- Most Most dishes dishes prepared bretonne garnish of include include aagamish (seeBEAN, of beans beans cooked cookedàd lalabretonne bretonne (see BEAN, Fresh Fresh white haricot beans). white haricot beans). Thus Thus Leg Leg or orShoulder Shoulder ofmutton of muttonàd laIa bretonne (seeMUTTON) bretonne (see MUTTON) isis roasted pot-roasted (some(someor pot-roasted roasted or times times braised), braised), and and served served with with beans. beans. Purée PurCe bretonne bretonne isis made made of of beans beanscooked cooked àd lala bretonne bretonne and and served, served, clarified, clarified, as as aa soup; soup; or or ifif aa thicker thicker consistency consistency isis retained, retained, as garnish for as aa vegetable vegetable or or aa gamish for meat. meat. Sauce Sauce bretonne bretonne isis poured poured over poached or over poached or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs eggs and and braised braised fillets fillets of of fish. fish. This This does does not not contain contain any any beans beans but but isis made made by adding finely by adding finely shredded shredded carrots, carrots, celery celery and and leeks, leeks, lightly lightly tossed in butter, tossed in butter, to veloutC sauce to thick thick velouté saucewith wirth cream, cream, or (See SAUCE; or to to white white wine wine sauce. sauce. (See SAUCE; SOLE, SOLE, Sole Sole àd la la bretonne.) bretonne.) BRETONNEAU me for BRETONIYEAU -- An An old old Norman Norman na name for turbot. turbot. BRIE BRIE -- Name Name of province of of an an ancient ancient province France, situated of France, situated to to the the east east of of Paris, Paris, with with the the town town of of Meaux Meaux as as capital. capital. The The province province was was once once divided dividd into into three three regions: regions: Brie Brie champen'oise (Meaux), Brie champenoise (Meaux), (Brie-Comte-Robert) frangaise (Brie-Comte-Robert) Brie française and pouilleuse (Château-Thierry). (Chdteau-Thierry). These and Brie Brie pouilleuse These regions regions were were part of part government of of the the government of Champagne. Champagne. The name of of Brie Brie isis known known for The name for the prothe excellent excellent cheeses cheeses produced duced there. there. There There are are no no other gastronomical specialities. other gastronomical specialities. The The cuisine cuisine is is the the same same as as that that of of the the Ile-de-France Ile-de-France and, and, therefore, similar similar to to the the one one which which constitutes constitutes the the basis basis of of Parisian cookery. cookery. Brie cheeses. FROMAGES FRoMAGES DE Brle cheeses. DE BRIE BRIE -- In In aa research research dedicated dedicated to to Brie cheeses one reads reads the year 12 the following: Every Every year 12 million million cheeses are are sold in the sold in the département dipartemenr of of Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. In In Meaux Meaux alone alone 4,420,000 4,420,0(X) francs' francs' worth worth of of cheese cheese is is sold sold annually; worth. annually; in in Crécy Crecy 1,300,000 1,300,000 francs' francs'worth. There There are are two qualities of two distinct distinct qualities Brie cheeses: of Brie cheeses: skimskimmilk cheeses made, as as their namestates, name states, from skimmed milk, se made and and cream cream chee cheese made from whole cows' cows' milk. The latter (especially the (especially the cheeses cheeses made made in in the region of Nangis the region Nangis with pure whole whole milk drawn drawn twice twie daily, daily, moming morning and and evening) evening) are extremely delicate. delicate. According According to M. Teyssier des Forges, des Forges, ses that it was was these these chee cheeses that were were served at the served at the Congress Congress of of proclaimed 'the best the world'. Vienna and and proclaimed best in the It seems that this estimation estimation of Brie cheeses, cheeses, made made in 1863, 1863, be excellent still holds holds good. good. The still quality continues The quality continues to to be especially where farm cheeses especially where farm cheeses are are concemed, concerned, although although the se, unfortunately, are becoming more and these, and more difficult difficult to find. The Brie dc de Meaux Meaux and Brie de de Coulommiers are best best The Brie and Brie Coulommrers are eaten from from October October to to May. May. The Brie de Melun can can be b~ eaten The Brie de Melun year. (See CHEESE.) CHEESE.) consumed throughout the year.

dish was was said said to have been invented by BRESOLLES -- This dish by in charge chef in the chef charge of Marquis de of Marquis de Bresolles' kitchen kitchen who the it after his called it his master. called 'Chop finely 250 g. (generous 1 g. (generous ham with onions, I lb.) lean ham few spring spring onions, onions, sorne some mushrooms and garlic clove. and aa garlic aa few pepper and aa little grated Season with salt, pepper grated nutmeg, Season nutrneg, and and add little olive oil. a little 'Put aa layer layer of this this forecemeat forecemeat into aa buttered earthen@sserole. Lay thin slices slices of of veal, beef mutton on top, ware casserole. beef or mutton and continue altemating alternating layers layers of forcemeat and and slices of and meat (* inch) from the meat until the casserole is filled filled up to 1 ] cm. (t top. Cover with a lid and and cook in the oven. 'Garnish and pour 'Gamish with with braised braised chestnuts, chestnuts, and pour over over some sorne Demi-glace sauce (q.v.) flavoured with Madeira.'

BRESSE BRESSE - The The name name of of this this ancient ancient part part of France France is known throughout the the world world for the the excellence excellence of Bresse Bresse chickens and capons. capons. BRESTOIS - Cake which used to be made in Brest: Brest: Whisk 12 12 eggs eggs and 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2f 2* cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar over over a low low heat (as for Genoese pastry). Add Add 125 125 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., ! cup) sweet sweet blanched blanched almonds almonds pounded in a mortar mortar with with 33 whole whole eggs. Flavour Flavour with with a few few drops of lemon essence, essence, a little bitter almond alrnond essence, essence, and and a small srnall glass of Curagao. Curaçao. Whisk Whisk the the mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly and and add add 375 375 glass of g. g. (13 (13 oz., oz., generous generous l| 1t cups) cups) melted melted butter butter and and 375 375 g. g. (13 oz., oz., 3| 3* cups) cups) sieved sieved cake cake flour. flour. Blend Blend well. weil. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered brioche brioche moulds. moulds. Bake Bake in in aa slow cake, ifif wrapped wrapped in in foil, foil, will keep keep slow oven. oven. This This type type of cake, in in perfect perfect condition condition for for aa long long time. time. ItIt isis aa kind kind of of 'travelling 'travelling cake' cake' (gdteau (gâteau de de voyage). voyage).

Dried plum plwn which gets its name name from from the the BRIGNOLE -- Drid département of Var. It It is used used in in town of Brignoles in the dipartement compotes in the same same way way as as dried apricots apricots and and prunes. prunes. compotes BR ILL. BARBUE BARBUE -- Flat Flat sea sea fish, possessing possessing aa certain similarity sirnilarity BRILL. to turbot, from which it differs by its smaller size, size, slightly to more elongated shape, and and by the tiny tiny scales scales which cover is light light and delicate. delicate. Its flesh is its skin. Is

BRETON BRETON (Giteau) (Gâteau) - This This gdteau gâteau was was created created by by Monsieur Monsieur Dubusc, of the the Seugnot Seugnot laboratories. laboratories. Dubusc, chief chief of The The Breton, Breton, made made from from almond almond biscuit biscuit paste, paste, isis assembled assembled by by placing placing different different cakes cakes on on top top of of one one another, another, icing icing each each with with aa different different colour colour fondant fondant icing icing and and then then decorating decorating it. it.

BRETON BRETON FAR. FAR. r.cR FAR BREToN BRETON speciality, speciality, made made commercially. commercially.

--

Cream flan. flan, a a Breton Breton Cream Brill

148

BRILL BRILL crayfish with crayfish Sometimes Sometimes the the fish fish is is glazed glazed by by dotting dotting it it with above butter and heating it it in in the oven, oven, surrounded by by the the above separately. garnish, wittr the sauce served separately. with -

incisions few incisions Make aa few LA ssRcv Brill ài la Bercy. Bercy. BARBIE BARBUE A À LA BERCY -- Make

lightly fillets lightly lifting the brill, lifting dark-skinned side of aa brill, on the dark-skinned the fillets dish Butter aa fireproof and seasoning the fish inside inside and out. Butter fireproof dish tablewith aa tableit with brill whole, long enough to take the brill who le, sprinkle it fish. put in in the the fish. and put and parsley, chopped shallots and spoott chopped spoon parsley, and dl. and 1I dl. wine and white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, sc{tnt t} cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, seant AAO Add t1 dl. which stock which fish stock (6 tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, scant * t cup) concentrated fish (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of to the the consistency down to has fumet (q.v.). has been boiled boiled down pieces and and very small small pieces into very (2 oz., g. (2 cup) butter into oz., t* cup) Cut 50 g. Cut 50 to put in in the the oven oven to fish. Bring to the boil, and put scatter over the fish. scatter

How to divide divide aa brill brjll How

frequently. 15 minutes, basting frequently. for 12 12 to to 15 cook for dish the dish putting the glazcitby nearly cooked, glaze When the brill is nearly it by putting part of the the oven. into the hottest part in to the BARBUE silrces. BARBUE various sauces. with varioll'i poached briU brill with Boiled or or poacbed Boiled (q.v.) of water of water court'bouillon (q.v.) Make aa court-bouillon PocISE -- Make BouILLIE, POCHÉE BOUILLIE, on the brill brill on proportions. Put Put the in equal proportions. and salted boiled milk in and pour the court'bouillon pan, and the court-bouillon and pour grill in in aa shallow shallow pan, wire grill aa wire impurities the impurities off the it boils, skim skim off When it it. Heat Heat slowly. slowly. When over over it. with aa the brill brill with cover the the liquid, cover of the surface of to the the surface which rise to 12 minutes minutes allowing 12 leave to to simmer simmer very slowly, allowing and leave napkin and g. (l(l lb.) lb.) of of fish. per 500 500 g. cooking time per over and brush brush over thoroughly, and drain the the brill thoroughly, cooked, drain When cooked, boiled with boiled Garnish with serving. Garnish before serving. melted butter butter before with with melted of the the sauces sauces one of with one parsley, and and serve serve with potatoes and fresh parsley, and fresh potatoes (see SAUCE). SAUCE). fish (see for boiled boiled fish recommended for recommended FEMME -soNNE FEMME A LA Ll BONNE BARBLJE À femme" BARBUE bonne femme. Brill Bril àn lah bonne (4 oz.) oz.') thinly thinly I25 g.g. (4 Bercy, adding adding 125 Brill àit lala Bercy, as for for Brill Prepare Prepare as and aa wine and white wine with white and moistening moistening with sliced mushrooms, and sliced mushrooms, (see SAUCE) fish on fish based on SAUCE) based sauce (see Velouti sauce few few tablespoons tablespoons Velouté in cooking in finish cooking and finish the stove, stove, and boil on on the Bring to to the the boil stock. stock. Bring Glaze. the the oven. oven. Glaze. BouncuIGNoNNE -A LA r,c. BOURGUIGNONNE BARBUE À Brill la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BARBUE Bdll ài la pan put inin aa buttered pepper, put buttered pan and pepper, with salt salt and Season Season aa brill brill with mushglazed onions and small small mushonions and with small small glazed and and surround surround with (* pint,scant (q.v.) and pint, scant 22 garni (q.v.) and 44 dl. dl. Ct rooms. bouquet garni Add aa bouquet rooms. Add pan and and Cover the the pan preferably Burgundy. Burgundy. Cover cups) red wine, wine, preferably cups) red in the cook cook in the oven. oven. garnish. Boil the Boil down down the and garnish. cooked, and when cooked, Remove the brill when Remove the brill (q.v.). of aa fumet consistency of reaches the the consistency liquor liquor until until itit reaches fumet (q.v.). (see (3 tablespoons) Kneaded butter butter (see tablespoons) Kneaded Blend in 22 tablespoons Blend in tablespoons (3 add 75 oz., 66 75 g.g. (3(3oz., minute or or two, two, add for aa minute BUTTER), BUTTER), boil boil for Pour this this and strain. strain. Pour thoroughly, and tablespoons) butter, blend blend thoroughly, tablespoons) butter, sa uce over over the the brill. brill. sauce BRAIsfo -garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE BRAISÉE various garnishes. Braised with varioll'i Braised brill brill with pan on foundation put itit in on aa foundation in aa shallow shallow pan and put Season brill and Season the the brill lightly fried frid inin which have have been been lightly of ions which and on onions carrots and of sliced sliced carrots parsley and andaa thyme, parsley fish stock, stoclg thyme, butter. concentrated fish Add concentrated butter. Add basting cook inin aa slow slow oven, oven, basting bay and cook the boil, boil, and leaf. Bring Bring to to the bay leaf. frequently. frequently. most This isis most Drain remove the the backbone. backbone. This and remove Drain the the brill brill and wellon aa wellup, on easily placing the fish, dark dark side side up, the fish, by placing easily done done by very fillets with with aavery buttered plate or removing the thefillets dish, removing long plate or dish, buttered long fillets. sharp replacing the thefillets. and replacing the bone, bone,and knife, taking out the taking out sharp knife, youare cover and cover are using, Garnish recipe you using, and the recipe as indicated indicated inin the Garnish as liquor, with added the the braising braising liquor, which has has been been added with aa sauce sauce to to which red with red boiled moistened with Braised brill brill moistened and strained. strained. Braised boiled down doivnand (q.v.), wine of aafumet consistency of wine fish fish stock reduced to to the theconsistency stock reduced fumct (q.v.), garnishes: bourguignonne can bourguignonne following garnishes: can be beserved with the the following served with (seebelow). Brill (see above), below). Brill (see etc.(see mdconnaise, etc. above), Chambertin, Chambertin,mâconnaise, garnishes braised oneof ofthe thegarnishes withone braised in wine can can be beserved servedwith in white white wine used recomthoserecomwhite wine, wine, especially especiallythose for fish fish cooked cooked inin white used for mended mended for forsoles. soles. Brill andtrim trim aabrill brill BARBUE BRANCAS BRANcAs - - Scale Scale and Brill Brancas. Brancas. BARBUE pieces. weighing (l* lb.), into uniforrn uniform pieces. andcut cut into lb.), and 750g.g.(Ii weighing about about750 Put ion, leek heart of ofcelery celeryshredded shredded totoaa andhalf half aaheart anon leekand Putan onion,

ail the seas of Europe, but the brill This fish abounds in all Atlantic Ocean is of of the greatest gastronomical gastronomical caught in the Atlantic flounder, resembles value. Grey Grey sole, sole, a a species of fiounder, resembles brill. species of value. fiounder, dab and lemon sole can be prepared in the Winter flounder, same way as brill. same making aa transverse transverse incision incision under the Clean the fish by making and trim, dark-skinned side. side. Scale and trim, shortening head on on the dark-skinned head slices or the tail a little. Wash the fish, fish, and cut in half, or in slices fillets. Brill à I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. BARBUE À r'uvrfnlcAlNE L'AMÉRICAINE - Cook Cook aa BARBUE A Brill Brill in for Bri/l recipe for in the as described described in the recipe medium-sized brill brill as (see below). with slices slices of of white wine wine (see below). Drain, and garnish with Drain, and white small'Iobster Lobster àd l'américaine LOBSTER). I'amiricaine (see LOBSTER). small'lobster or Lobster add cooked, and add Boil down the liquor in which the fish was cooked, to American sauce (see SAUCE). brill. toitit American SAUCE). Pour over the brill.

i

-

BriJl Brill àri l'amiral I'amiral

Brill and slit Scale and slit BARBLJE À A L'AMIRAL t'lMtn^lr, -- Seale Brill àI l'amiral. I'amiral. BARBUE (2*-lb.) brill. lengthwise, a l-kg. (2t-Ib.) brill. side, al-kg. lengthwise, on on the dark-skinned side, the dark-skinned Place pour in pan. Season, and pour in Season, and in aa buttered Plaoe itit in buttered shallow shallow pan. white has been boiled down down to to aa which has been boiled white wine wine fish fish stock stock which fumet (q.v.), enough fish. Season. Season. reach the level of of the the fish. to reach the level enough to fumet (q.v.), Bring for 25 25 to place in in aa hot hot oven oven for to cover, and and place Bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, 30 partly cooked, cooked, baste baste has been been partly fish has After the the fish 30 minutes. minutes. After from liquor; ifif basted earlier there there its own own liquor; basted earlier from time time with with its time to to time ove isis aa risk and rem remove When cooked, cooked, drain drain and fish splitting. risk of the fish splitting. When of the aU Trim off off the the side side bones. bones. all the the dark dark skin. skin. Trim Place away ail wipe away all care to to wipe on aa serving dish, taking taking care Place on serving dish, liquid. Make the oven. oven. Make Heat for for aa moment moment or or two two inin the liquid. Heat Normande pan, (see SAUCE) liquor inin the the pan, from the the liquor Normanfu sauce SAUCE) from sauce (see which little and had had aa little down, and has been boiled down, been strained, strained, boiled which has Crayfish (see BUTTER) it. added to to it. butter (see BUfiER) added Crayfish butter Garnish and breadcrumbs and in egg and breadcrumbs coated in egg and Garnish with with oysters oysters coated fried, crayfrsh with crayfish filled with shells filled fried, mussels Villeroi, scallop scallop shells mussels àd la la Villeroi, tails the browned under under the tails àri la with the the tops tops slightly slightly browned la Nantua Nantua with grill, (q.v.). DecDec' grill, and in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). cooked in and mushrooms mushrooms cooked orate have been been which have truffie which slices of of truffie brill with with thin thin slices orate the the brill heated pepper. and pepper. with salt salt and in butter and seasoned seasoned with heated in butter and The amiral applies flat Brill àd /'I'atniral applies to to ail all fiat cooking Brill The method method of of cooking fish little court-bouillon, court-bouillon, in very very little fish which which are are braised; braise in braised; braise and very weil. well. and flavour flavour the or fumet the stock stock or fumet very 149 r49

BRILL BRILL julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) into pan with finejulienne into aa pan g. (l(l OZ., with 25 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine pinch of butter and and aa pinch of salt. salt. Cook Cook very very slowly. slowly. When When the the butter vegetables are are about about three-quarters three-quarters donc, done, add add 125 125 g.E. vegetables (4 oz.) oz.) finely finely shredded mushrooms, and shredded mushrooms, and finish finish cooking. cooking. (4 \\is julienne isis called called bretonne. bretonne. Thisjulienne Saut6 aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion in in butter, butter, and and add add 44 Sauté peeled, seeded seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, togctber together with with aa little little peeled, garlig salt chopped garlic, pepper. Simmer and pepper. salt and Simmer slowly, slowly, stirring stirring chopped from time you get get aa tomato time to to time, time, until until you tomato fondue. Add Add aa smaU small from spoon cbopped parsley. chopped parsley. spoon Butter an an ovenware ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and and freshly freshly Butter ground pepper, pepper, and julienne. Put pour in and pour in half half the the vegetable vegetable julienne. P:ut ground (q.v.) in garni (g.v.) bouquet garni in aa corner corner of of the the dish dish so so that that ilit can can be be aa bouquet removed at easily removed at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. Place pieces of Plaoe the the pieces of easily brill on on the the dish dish in in the the shape shape of of the the original original fish, fish, season season with with brill pepper, and julienne. and pepper, salt and and cover cover with with tbe rest of the rest of the the julienne. salt juice and Sprinkle with with aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and add add 22 dl. dl. Sprinkle pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Scatter Scatter aa few few dabs dabs of butter of butter $ pint, (t on the the surface surface of of the the fish. fish. on Bring slowly slowly to to the place the dish the boil boil on on the the stove, stove, then then place in dish in Bring slow oven oven for for 15 15 to 18 minutes, minutes, basting to 18 basting freguently. frequently. A A aa slow few minutes put aa border minutes before before the the end end of of cooking, cooking, put border of of the the few tomato fondue round the the brill. brill. Return Return the dish to much the dish to aa mueh fondue round tomato hotter oven glazn the oven to the fish. fish. Before Before serving, with sprinkle with serving, sprinkle hotter to glaze parsley. chopped parsley. chopped This way way of of cooking, cooking, cvolved evolved from from the Dugl6r6 method method the Dugléré This preparation, can young turbot, of preparation, can be for fish be used used for fish such as young such as turbot, of (U.S. plaice (U fresh cod, sole, whiting, cod, plaice flounder). sole, whiting, fresh .S. flounder). Brill àn la h callClllaise. cancalaise. BARBUE BARBT,TE À A LA CANCALAISE clNclr,Arsu -- Cook Cook the the Drill brill white wine wine as as described in the described in recipe for for Brill the recipe briU in in white Bril! àd I'uniral. Drain poached Garnish with with oysters oysters poached Drain thoroughly. thoroughly. Garnish l'amiral. in own liquor, drained, and and with in their their own liguor, drained, with their their beards beards removed. removed. Boil down the liquor in in which the fish fish was cooked, and and add add Boil down the liguor whieh the was cooked, (see SAUCE), to sauce (see SAUCE), which suitable fO( for brill. brill. to Normande Normande sauce which is is suitable Brill cardil1al. BARBTJE CARDtNAL cardinal. BARBUE cARDTNAL -- Remove the backbone, Remove the backbone, Drill as described described for for Braised brill with with various Season as Braised brm various garnishes. garnishes. Season the the brill, brill, and and stuff stuff it it with with finely finely poundd, pounded Pike Pike forcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEA T), to to which which has has been been addd added Lobster Lobster butter or Crayfish Crayfish butter buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). buller or Poach poach the the brill briU in in white white wine, wine, drain, drain, and and garnish garnish with with slices slices of of lobster lobster or or crayfish. crayfish. Cover Cover wfth with Cardinal Cardinal sance sauce 1 (see sauces). Sprinkle (see SAUCE, SAUCE, White White sauces). Sprinkle with with chopped chopped coral. coral. Brill Drill au au Chambertin. Chambertin. BARBUE BARBUE Au AU cHAMBERTTN CHAMBERTtN - Cook Cook the the brill briU in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock made made with with Chambertin Chambertin wine, wine, as as described described for for Brill Brill d à Ia Ûl bourguignonne, bourguignonne, making making the the saue sauce with with Chambertin Chambertin instead instead of of Burgundy. Burgundy. Brill Bri/! an au Chambertin Chambertin is is garnished garnishcd with with mushrooms mushrooms which which have been been cooked cooked with with the the fish; fish; brill briU prepared prepared d à la Ûl bourbourguignonne is garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms and and small smaU glazed glazed guignonne is onions. on ions. Brill in Clampagne: Cbampagne: il la la champenoise. champenois
Drain the the brill, and surround surround with brill, and with small heaps of Drain small heaps of very very (see FONDUE) thick Tomato Tomato fondue FONDUE) alternating alternating with tbiek with fondue (see truffies cut cut into into large large dice. dice. truffles Boil down down the the liquor liquor inin which which the the fish fish was was cooked cooked to Boil to aa (q.v.), strain, julimne (g.v.) (q.v.) of (red) and add add aa julienne strain, and fumet of sweet sweet (red) fumet (g.v.), pimentos which which have have been been lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Mix Mix with with pimentos (ser, SAUCE) Hollandnise sauce sauce (see pour itit over SAUCE) and and pOUT Hollandaise over the the briU. brill. Glaze in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Glaze Cold brill brill with with VlIrÎOUS various sauces. stuces. IlARIlUE BARBuE FROID FRorD - Cook Cold Cook the the fish as as described described in in the for Boiled brUI, recipe for the recipe brill, and and leave leave to fish to cool in in the the liguor. liquor. Drain Drain the garnish with the brill brill weil, well, gamish cool with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, and and serve serve with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or parsley any or any recommended for other sauce sauce recommended for cold cold fish. fish. other Brilt witb with crayfish: crayfish: ài la la Nantua. Nantua. BARBUE BARBT.JE AUX lux ÉCRiVISSES: fcnrvrssrs: À A Drill LA NANTUA NANTUA - Prepare Prepare as (see below), as Brill Brill with with shrimps LA shrirnps (see replacing shrimps ldrth Nantua shrimps by crayfish crayfish tails, and and covering covering with Nantua replacing (see SAUCE, sauce (see SAUCE, Compound Compound sauces). saaces). Boil Boil down down the liquol sauce the Iiguor and add add to to the the sauce sauce before serving. serving. and gratin BARBUE Brill in in cream cream au au gratin. BARBTJE À A LA CRiME cnirr,c AU AU GRATtN Brill GRATTN Prepare as gratin (see (see COD), as Creamed Crearned cod cod au gratin COD), using brill Prepare brill eut cut pieces. into pieees. into Brill à la la dieppoise. dieppoise. IlARBUE BARBTJE À A LA ra DIEPPOlSE orrpporse -- Cook BriO Cook whole whole or filleted filleted brill brill in in white white wine. wine. Drain Drain weil. or well. Garnish Garnish with (cooked in mussels àd la dieppol'se (cooked la dieppoise in white white wine) wine) and and peeled shrimps. Pour Pour over (see over the the fish fish White White wine wine sauce sauce / (see shrimps. SAUCE, White White sauces) sauces) to which the to which concentrated pan the concentrated SAUCE, juices have been been added. added. G Glazn in aa very very hot hot oven. juices laze in Brill Dugléré. Dugl6r6. BARBUE DUGLÉRÉ oucrfr.6 -- Cut pieces Cut the the brill into pieces Drill and prepare as as described in the (see for.Bass and the recipe for Bass Dugldrd Dugliré (see BASS). Brin h fermière. fermiCre. BARBUE sA.nsuE A r,A FERMŒRE reRMdRE -- Season the brill Drill ài la À LA with salt and and pepper with salt pepper and and place place in in aa.buttered buttcred dish dish on on a (q.v.) made foundation of of a fondue carrots, on fondue (g.v.) made from from carrots, ions, onions, leeks and celery, celery, shredded shredded and and lightly lightly cooked leeks and cooked in in butter. Add aa few tablespoons of Cover the brill with more/ondue. more fondue. Add dry or concentratd dry white wine, wine, or concentrated fish fish stock based on on white wine (see Scatter a (see STOCK, Fish stock'). stock). Scatter a few dabs of butter on on the the fish fish and and cook cook in in a a slow slow oven, basting basting frequently. freguently. (scant t cup) When When the the fish fish is is done, done, add add 3 tablespoons (seant cream. Glaze Glaze in the the oven. oven. Another Another method method is is to put put the the fish fish in in a a buttered buttered ovenovenproof proof dish on on a a foundation of of chopped onion which wlùch has has been lightly lightly fried in butter. Cover with sliced mushrooms, moisten moisten with red red wine, and add add a few small smail pieces pieccs of of butter. butter. Cook in the oven. oven. Strain the pan pan juices, juices, bring bring to the the boil, boil, and thicken thicken with kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Add Add a little Iittle fresh fresh butter, butter, stir stir well, weil, and pour this this sauce over the the fish. Glaze G laze in the the oven. oven. Fillets Fillels of brill. briO. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE - Clean, Clean, scale and wash wash the the fish, fish, and fillet by by slitting slitting itit down down the the middle middle from from head head to to tail. tail. Slide SI ide aa sharp sharp knife knife under under the the fillets fillets to to lift lift them, the m, taking taking care care to to sever sever them them completely completeJy from from the the body body of of the the fish. fish. Put Put the the fillets fiUets flat flat on the the table, table, skin skin side down, down, and and slide the the knife knife blade hlade between between the the fish fish and and the the skin, skin, holding holding the the fillet fillet at at one one end end so so as as to to remove remove the the skin skin in in one one piece. piece. All AU methods methods of of preparation preparation for for whole whole brill briU can ean be be applied applied to to fillets. fillets. Fillets Fillels of of brill brill Ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. FTLETs FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE AÀ l'^lNcr.tlss L'ANGLA1SE Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets aa little, little, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified c1arified butter butter until until both both sides sides are are golden. golden. Put Put softened softened Mattre Maître d'hdtel d'hôtel butter huiler (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) huI/ers) on on each eaeh fillet. fillet. Decorate Decorate with with half-slices half-slices of of lemon lemon placed placed round round the the border border of of the the dish. dish. Fillets Fillets of of fish fish grilled grilled and and accompanied aceompanied by by melted meltcd butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes potatoes are are often often served served under under the the name name of of fillets fil lets of of fish fish dà l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Filleb Fillels of of brill bril] ilil la la cr6ole. créole. FTLETS FILETS DE DE BARBUE BARBUE AÀ r.l LA cnfot.e CRÉOLE Season Season the the fillets fiUets with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, lightly lightly dredge dredge with with

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150

BRILL BRILL

How to fillet brill. How First cut the fish lengthwise, First slide ide the knife along then si detach the fillet the backbone to detach (Larousse) (Larousse)

v6noN -- Cut DE BARBUE BARBUE VÉRON Cut the the FILETs DE Fillets of brill V V6ron Fillets éron. FILETS of brill pepper, dip and pepper, dip with salt salt and in half half lengthways, lengthways, season season with fillets fillets in more with more and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with in melted melted butter breadcrumbs, sprinkle in butter and grill. Arrange layer low grill. Arrange on on aa layer cook under melted melted butter and and cook under aa low (see SA when serving. serving. of éron sauce UCE) when SAUCE) of VViron sauce (see in aa A LA r,c, FLORENTINE TToRENTINE -- Cook Cook in BARBUE À BriO Brill ài la la florentine. florentine. BARBUE Drain, and and arrange arrange on on white wine wine stock. stock. Drain, little little concentrated concentrated white cookd inin which has has been been cooked aa foundation leaf spinach foundation of of leaf spinach which (se SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle butter. with Mornay Mornay sauce butter. Cover Cover with glazn. andglaze. grated cheese melted butter, with cheese and and melted butter, and with grated very cooked in in white white wine; wine; very This for fiUets fillets cooked This method method isis used used for fish, cooking whole whole fish, little When cooking little liquid liquid should be used. used. When should be and trim round all round remove after cooking, cooking and trim all remove the bone aCter the central central bone before on the the spinach. arranging itit on spinach. before arranging in milk, milk, Fried Clean small brill, soak soak in Frid brill. BARBUE FRITE FRIrE -- Clean small brill, brin. BARBUE Drain, in very very hot hot oil. lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in oil. Drain, lightly dredge with flour, flour, and dredge with garnish with fried and gamish with fried dry with fine fine salt, cloth, season salt, and in aa cloth, dry in season with parsley parsley and lemon. and slices of lemon. slices of gratin. BARBUE as described Brill cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as described BARBUE AU AU GRATIN Brill au au gratin. (see SOLE), gratin (see brill. in using small small brill. in the the recipe recipefor for Sole SOLE), using Sole au au gratin Grilled few shallow cntrr6s -- Make Make aa few shallow SA.RBUE GRILLÉE Grilled brill. brill. BARBUE pepper, brush incisions and pepper, brush with salt season with salt and incisions on on the the brill, brill, season with fresh grill on low heat. heat. Gamish Garnish with with fresh and grill on low with oil oil or or butter butter and parsley on, and Maitre d'hôtel d hitel and serve tvith Maître parsley and lemon, servewith and slices of lem slices of (see BUTTER, butter any sauce butters) or or any sauce Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see recommended grilled fish. fish. recommended for for grilled Jellied LA garnishes. BARBUE BARBUE GLACÉE GLAcfE ÀA LA variors garnishes. brill with witr various Jellied brill GELÉE based little concentrated concentrated stock, stock, based curtn -- Cook Cook the the brill brill inin aa little either nature of on the the nature of the the wine, depending depending on red or white wine, either on on red or white dish. liquor. Dry Dry and and its own own strained Allow itit to to cool cool inin its strained liquor. dish. Allow jelly (see (see JELL trim Y). clarified jelly JELLY). coat itit with with clarified and coat trim the the brill, brill, and (see Ali salmon (see garnishes recommended for Cold Cold salmon recommended for All garnishes SALMON) applied to to bril!. brill. SALMOI',D can can be be applied Brill Boneaa u, MÂCONNAISE UAcowNAISE - - Bone sARsuE ÀA LA mf,connaise. BARBUE Brill àt lala mâconnaise. medium-sized not toto tear tearthe white skin. skin. care not the white taking care medium-sized brill, brill, taking Season, dry forcemeat mixed mixed with with dry with fish and stuff flsh forcemeat Season, and stuff with duxelles (q.v.) and parsley. chopped parsley. duxelles (q.v.) and chopped (M6con) Cook red (Mâcon) on red fish stock stock based basedon concentrated fish Cook inin concentrated wine, Brill àdlalabourguignonne. bourguignonne. recipefor for Brill in the the recipe wine, as as described described in Drain dish. Surround Surround and arrange arrangeon onaadish. Drain the the brill brill thoroughly thoroughly and with havebeen been fried fried inin butter butterand and white cèpes cipes which which have with small small:white seasoned asdescribed described with aasauce sauoeas Cover with with small shallots.Cover seasoned with smallshallots. inin the Simmersmall small Brill àd lala bourguignonne. bourguignonne.Simmer for Brill recipefor the recipe artichokes (q.v.) of oftruffles trufles àrila/a fill with with aasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) butter, fill artichokes inin butter, crème, place round fish. roundthe the fish. andplace the top, top, and crirhe, brown brown the

halved tomatoes Garnish with halved flour and fry in butter or oil. Gamish cooked in oil. Scoop out the centre of each and each half-tomato and (see PILAF). Add fill with pilaf (see Add to to this Rice pilaf of Rice spoonful of with aa spoonful gamish peeled and which have have been been garnish diced sweet pimentos which and diced cooked in oil. Add aa tablespoon chopped parsley to garlic and hot to the the hot and parsley chopped garlic pour oil in the pan, and pour pan, sprinkle the fillets with lemon juice, and the oil over them just before before serving. Fillets t'lNpENNe -DE BARBUE À A L'INDIENNE FILETs DE Filleb of brill brill curried. FILETS Season an and put them them into an salt and pepper and Season the fillets with salt (4 oz., g. (4 cup) 100 g. oz., 1I cup) foundation of of 100 on aa foundation ovenproof dish dish on chopped and seasoned seasoned fried in in butter, and has been been fried chopped onion which has with garlic. Place 44 pounded garlic. pinch of pounded and aa pinch curry powder and with curry peeled, and fish, and on the the fish, peeled, seeded chopped tomatoes tomatoes on and chopped seeded and moisten with (| pint, Add aa few few pint, }3 cup) wine. Add white wine. cup) white with I-!1| dl. dl. (! small pieces pieces of butter. Cook frequently. for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. in the oven for Cook in the oven Add 2 dl. in (] pint, Finish cooking cooking in pint, scant cream. Finish cup) thick thick cream. dl. (t scant cup) the l'indienne with Rice Rice àd l'indienne Serve with oven, still basting frequently. Serve the oven, (see (see RICE). Fillets rA, or BARBUE sARnuE ÀA LA FILETs DE la Duxelles. Duxelle{L FILETS Fillets of of brill brill ài la DUXELLES pepper, lightly lightly and pepper, with salt the fillets fillets with salt and DUxELLEs -- Season Season the dredge and butter. butter. in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and fry fry in with flour flour and dredge with Place (q.v.) &txelles (q.v.) foundation of of aa duxelles dish on on aa foundation Place on serving dish on aa serving bound (se SAUCE). with slices Garnish with slices SAUCE). Gamish Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato bound with of pour parsley, and and pour with chopped chopped parsley, peeled lemon, lemon, sprinkle sprinkle with of peeled the fish. over the the fish. frying over left from from frying hot butter butter left the hot Fillets RIcHELIEU -DE BARBUE BARBUE RICHELIEU FILETS DE Fillets of of brin brill Richelieu. Richelieu. FILETS Dip and fry fry inin butter butter and breadcrumbs in egg breadcrumbs and Dip the the fillets fillets in egg and until of golden. Garnish with thin thin slices slices of Garnish with are golden. until both both sides sides are truffies butter d'hiltel butter Mattre d'hôtel of Maître trufles beated dabs of Put dabs heated in in butter. butter. Put on (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butters). BUTTER, Compound on top top (see Fillets rl Ds BARBUE SARBUE ÀA LA FILETS DE toulonnaise. FILETS Fillets of of bril1 brill ài lala toulonnaise. TOULONNAISE pepper and and and pepper with salt fillets with salt and TouLoNNAIsE -- Season Season the the fiUets dip sides both sides Fry in in oil oil until until both dip them in egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry them in egg and are (see Tomato fondue golden. Arrange bed of of thick thick Tomato are golden. Arrange on on aa bed fondue (see FONDUE) ion, has has been been chopped on onion, with chopped FONDUE) which, which, together together with cooked garlic. Surround with pinch of pounded garlic. Surround with in oil; of pounded cooked in oil; add add aa pinch diced lemon on put thin of lemon on and put thin slices slices of in oil, fried in oil, and diced aubergines aubergines fried the hot oil. oil. of the few tablespoons the hot with aa few tablespoons of the fillets. Sprinkle with fillets. Sprinkle FiJJets rl or BARBUE nlnsuE ÀA LA FILETs DE tyrolienne. FILETS Fillets of of brill britl ài lala tyrolienne. TYROLIENNE paprika, brush brush and paprika, with salt fillets with salt and TvRoLIENNE -- Season Season the the fillets with Tomato of Tomato grill on heat. Arrange Arrange on on aa bed bed of and grill low heat. with oil oil and on low FONDUE) and cover with on ion rings which fondue (see (see which rings with onion and cover FONDUE) fondue have in oil. have been been fried fried in oil.

151 l5l

BRILLAT-SAVARIN BRILLA T -SA VARIN Brillàtlalamarinière. mariniCre. BARBUE BARBUE A r-,q umm$nr - prepare like Brill À LA MARINIÈRE - Prepare like Brillininwhite (see below). Garnish d la mariniire (see whitewine wine(see Brill below). Garnish à la marinière (see GARNISHES) and cover with Marinière Mariniiresauce sauce(see irr. GARNISHES) and coyer with SAUCE). SAUCE). Brill àt lalaménagère. m6nagire. BARBUE BARBUEÀALA rl MÉNAGÈRE ufNlcins- -Season Seasonthe the Brill fish with withsalt pepper,and saltand and pepper, placeininan andplace anovenproof ovenproof dish dishon on fish foundationof chopped onions, ofchopped onions,lightly lightly fried friedininbutter butterand and aafoundation seasoned with pounded thyrne and bay leaf. Moisten with red seasoned with pounded thyme and bay leaf. Moisten with red wine and cook in a covered pan. and cook in a covered pan. wine When the the brill brill isisready, ready,arrange arrangeon onaadish dishand andthicken thicken the the When juices with kneaded butter. Bring to the boil, add a pan juices pan with kneaded butter. Bring ta the boil, add a little fresh fresh butter, butter,and pour over andpour overthe the fish. fish. little Brill Mornay. Mornay. BARBUE BARBUE MORNAY MoRNAy - - Cook Cook flllets fillets of of brill brill inin Brill concentrated fish fish stock stock and and arrange arrange on on aadish dish \ined lined with with concentrated Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Coyer Cover with withsorne some of of the thesame same Mornay sprinkle with with aa mixture mixture of grated Gruyère of grated Gruybreand and sauce, lauce, sprinkle Parmesan cheese, cheese, add add melted melted butter, butter,and andbrown brownthe thetop. top. Parmesan Brill with with muslU'ooms. mushrooms. BARBUE BARBUE AUX Ar.rx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNS - - Cook Cook Brill the brillbrill - whole, whole, in in fillets fillets or or cut cut in in pieces pieces -- in inaaconcentrated concentrated the white wine fish fish stock. Drain thoroughly, stock. Drain thoroughly, arrange arrangeon onaadish, dish, white wine garnish with and garnish with mushrooms. mushrooms. Serve Serve with with White lAhite wine winesauce sauce 1I and (see SAUCE), incorporating the liquor in which the fish (see SAUCE), incorporating the liguor in which the fish was cooked. cooked. was Brill with with mussels. mussels. BARBUE BARBT.TE AUX AUx MOULES MouLEs -- Cook Cook the the brill brill BriU in aa \ittle little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. stock. Drain, Drain, arrange arrange on on aa dish, dish, in and surround surround with with mussels mussels which which have have been been cooked cooked inin and white wine. wine. Coyer Cover with with white white wine wine sauce, sauce, or or Normande Normande white (ser-, SAUCE) which has incorporated the liquor in sauce (see sauce SAUCE) which has incorporated the liguor in which the the fish fish and and the mussels were the mussels were cooked. cooked. which Brill ài la la normande. normande. BARBUE BARBUE À A LA Nonu,lNDE -- Cook u NORMANDE Cook the the Brill in aa little brill in little concentrated concentrated fish fish stock. Drain, arrange stock. Drain, arrange on on aa brill dish, and and surround surround with garnish àd la with garnish (see GARNla normande normande (see GARNdish, ISHES). Coyer Cover with with Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), to to ISHES). which has has been added the been added the boiled-down boiled-down liguor liquor in in which which the the which fish was was cooked. cooked. fish The method preparation known of preparation known as as àd la Ia normande isis The method of also applied applied to plaice and sole. to turbot, turbot, plaice so!e. also Brill oysters. BARBUE BARBUE AUX nux HUÎTRES nuirnns -- Cook Cook the the brill brill in in BriJl wtth with oysters. concentrated white white wine wine fish stock. Drain, and garnish and garnish aa little little concentrated with oysters. Add to the the Iiguor liquor with poached poached oysters. Add aa white wine sauce to in brill and and the the oysters oysters were were cooked, and and pour in which which the the brill over over the the fish. fish. proceed as described Brill suR LE BARBUE SUR LE pr.lr PLAT -- Proceed Brill srr sur le le plat. plat. BARBT.JE in for Sole Ie plat in the the recipe recipe for Sole sur le plat (see (see SOLE), using using small brill. Bri[ BriJJ n àh la portugaise. portugaise. BARBUE BARBUE A À re LA ponrucArsr PORTUGAISE -- proceed Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for for Bass Bass d à la portugaise portugaise (see (see BASS). BASS). BriU .Bass Brill nà h la provengale. provençale. snnsuE BARBUE A À r.c, LA pRovBNgALE PROVENÇALE -- As Bass dà la la provengale provençale (see (see BASS). Brill BriJJ in in red red wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vrN VIN Roucn ROUGE - Cook Cook the brill in aa little concentrated fish fish stock based based on on red red wine. wine. Drain. Drain, little concentrated and and arrange arrange on on a dish. dish. Make Make aa red red wine sauce, incorporating incorporating the liquor liguor in which which the Thicken with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter, or blend the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. Thicken with with Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce based based on on fish fish stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add aa little little butter, butter, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the brill. brill. Brin la russe. russe. BARBUE BARBUE A À u, LA Russr RUSSE -- As As described described in in the the Brill tà h recipe Sole dà la la russe russe (see (see SOLE), SOLE), using using medium medium brill. brill. recipe fot for Sole BriJJ in in scallop scaUop shells. shells. coeurI,r,Es COQUILLES DE DE BARBUE BARBUE -- pipe Pipe a - BriU border border of of Duchess Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) round round the the edges edges of ofscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover Coyer the the centre centre of of the the shells shells with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), add add small small slices slices of of hot hot brill, brill, and and cover coyer with with more more Mornay Mornay souce. sauce. Scatter Scatter grated grated cheese cheese on on top, top, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top. top. Brill Brill with with shrimpe. slU'imps. BARBUE BARBUE Aux AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES -- Cook Cook the the brill brill ininaa little fishfumet (q.v.).Drain, (g.v.). Drain, and and garnish garnish the the little white white wine wine fishfumet sides sides with with peeled peeled shrimps. shrimps. Boil Boil down down the the liquor liguor in in which which the the brill brill was was cooked, cooked, add add Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and pour pour over overthe thefish. fish.

Brillshrlfed strffedwith withsalmon, salmon,with withvarious variornsauces garnishes. saucesand BriU andgarnishes. Cleana abrill weighingabout brillweighing about2 2kg. kg. - Clean (4+lb.) lb.)and andslit slitititlengthwise lengthwisedown downthe themiddle middleononthe (41thedark dar-k side.Remove Removethe thecentral centralbone bonethrough throughthis side. thisopening, opening, takingcare carenot nottototear tearthe thewhite whiteskin. skin. taking Season,and andstuff stuffthe thebrill brillwith witha acream creamforcemeat forcemeatmade Season, made salmonand andtruffies. trufres.Lay Laythe thefish ofofsalmon fishinina abuttered butteredovenproof ovenproof dish,season, season,moisten moistenwith with44dl.dl.(-i-(fpint, pint,scant dish, scant22cups) cups)white white (q.v.)and winefish fish/rmet poachgently andpoach gentlyininthe wine fumet (g.v.) theoyen ovenwith withthe the lidon onthe thedish. dish. lid Whenthe thebrill brillisiscooked, cooked, drain, drain,dry When dryinina acloth, cloth,and andarrange arrange juices,add onaadish. dish.Boil Boildown downthe thejuices, addtotonormande on normandesauce, sauce.and and pourover overthe thefish. fish. pour All methods methods ofof preparation preparation given givenfor Ail forbrill brilland andsole sole poached ininwhite whitewine winecan canbe beapplied poached appliedtotothis thisdish, dish,for forwhich which thefollowing following garnishes garnishes are aresuitable: the suitable:amiral, amiral,cancalaise, cancalaise, cardinal, champenoise, champenoise,diplomate, diplomate, Nantua, cardinal, Nantua,normande, normande, Polignac, Victoria. Victoria. Polignac, Stuffd briO brill with garnishes.BARBUE withvarious various garnishes. Stuffed BARBT.JE FARCIE FARcTE- -Bone Bone the brill brill asasdescribed described inin the the therecipe recipefor forBrill Brillstuffed stuffedwith with salmon.Stuff Stuff with withFish Fish forcemeat (seeFORCEMEAT). salmon. FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see Poachininaalittle littleconcentrated concentrated fish Poach fishstock. stock. Drainthe thefish, fish,arrange arrange on Drain onaadish, dish,surround surroundwith withthe thechosen chosen garnish, and pourover and pour garnish, overitit aasauce goes weil sauce that thatgoes wellwith with the the garnish. garnish. All the the methods methods given given for Ali iII ininred for Braised Braised br brill redor orwhite whitewine wine can be applied to be applied can to stuffed stuffed brill. brill. Brill àI vénitienne. v6nitienne. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUE ÀA LA u VÉNITIENNE vENTTTENNE - - As AsSole SoleàdlaIa (see SOLE). vinitienne (see vénitienne SOLE). Briil àn lah Victoria. Victoria. BARBUE BriJJ BARBUI ÀA LA r,c.VICTORIA vrcronrn - - Cook Cook the thebrill brill as described describedfor as for Brill Brill inin white (s* below). white wine wine (see below). Drain, Drain, arrange on arrange on aa dish, dish, and garnish with and garnish with aa salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) of the the (U.S. crayfish) flesh of flesh of spiny spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) and and truffies. truffies. Coyer eover with with Victoria sauce (se SAUCE). Victoria sauce (see SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in in the the oyen. oven. Brill Brill inin white white wine. wine. BARBUE BARBUE AU AU vIN vrN BLANC BLANc -- Season Season the the brill brill place in and place and in aa buttered pan with buttered pan with aa thinly thinly sliced sliced onion onion and and aa garni (g.v.). (q.v.). Moisten bouquet garni bouquet Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white wine, or wine. or with with concentrated concentrated fish fish stock stock based based on on white white wine wine and boiled and boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of (q.v.). Cook of aa fumet Cook fumet (g.v.). on low heat on low heat with with the lid on the lid pan. on the the pan. Drain Drain the the brill, brill, arrange arrange on on aa dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with White White (see SA wine sauce (see UCE), using SAUCE), using as as aa basis basis the liquor in the liguor in which which the fish fish was was cooked. cooked. The The brill brill can can be be served served as as itit is, glazed is, or or glazed quickly in guickly in aa very very hot hot oyen oven or or under grill. under aa hot hot grill. BARBUESAUMONÉE SAUMoNEEBARBUE

Jean Anthelme Jean Anthelme Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin

BRILLAT-SAV AR IN (Jean (Jean Anthelme) Anthelme) - French magistrate, BRILLAT-SAVARIN - French magistrare,

politician and and gastronome, gastronome, born born at at Belley Belley in in l?55, 1755, died died in in politician

Paris in in 1826. 1826. Paris He started started his his career career as as aa lawyer lawyer at at the the Court Court of of Belley, Belley, He deputy of of the the National National Assembly Assembly in in 1789, 1789, was was made made became deputy became mayor and and commander commander of of the the National National Guard Guard of of Belley Belley in in mayor 152 t52

Parisian mushrooms (Plrol. Nicolas)

v' 4v

BRIOCHE BRIOCHE salt, l+ l2l ke. add12·i copper vessel vessel and and add kg. Q7i (27} lb.) lb.) rock rock salt, 11 kg. kg. sugar. cups) brown (3 (3 lb.) lb.) saltpetre and and 800 800 g. g. (li (lî lb., lb., 3+ 3-t cups) brown sugar. Bring to the boil on a a strong heat. peeled potato into To test test the density of the brine, brine, put put aa peeled potato into and is too of salt is it. If If the potato potato floats, the proportion proportion of too high high and to the sinks to if the the potato more should be more water water should be added; added; if potato sinks potato the potato down until bottom, bot tom, the the liquid liquid should be be boiled boiled down until the remove the the is suspended in the middle. When this is achieved, remove and leave to cool. brine from the heat and which with aa long Prick the meat to to be be preserved with long needle which place in in aa and place with saltpetre saltpetre and in salt salt mixed with has been rubbed in grille at for the at the bottom for the bottom brine which should have aa grille brine tub, which quite cold. it isis quite when in the the brine brine wh meat stand on. on. Pour meat to to stand Pour in en it meat weighs 44 to if the the meat least 88 days days if at least Leave to pickle Leave to pickle for at into inject (81 to are used, used, in If larger cuts are lb.). If kg. (8t to IIlI lb.). ject brine into 5 kg. the meat with aa special pump.

1793, 1793, was was banished banished during during the the Reign Reign of Terror, Terror, fled fled to Switzerland, then then spent spent three three years as a refugee refugee in America. America. Switzerland, He returned to to France in September,1797, September, 1797, had his name name He returned removed removed from from the the list list of imigris, émigrés, became became first first a a commissioner to the the army in Germany Germany under Augereau, then missioner commissioner at the court of the ddpartement département of Seine-etcommissioner member of of the Supreme Supreme Court of of Appeal. Appeal. Oise, then th en member Oise, subjects He published various pamphlets, political and on subjects of law, law, but but his lasting lasting fame rests rests on a gastronomical gastronomical work on of which was published which he had long been engaged, and which goût. shortly before his death, la Physiologie du goftt.

(Method of preparing meat) -- Lamb Lamb BRILLAT-SAVARIN (Method and mutton mutton noisettes, noisettes, with with a a garnish gamish of duchess duchess potato and (q.v.), filled filled with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of foie foie gras, cassolettes (q.v.), truffies, and green green asparagus tips tips in in butter. Also Aiso the name of of a trufles, Normandy (see page page 210). 210). cheese made in Normandy

yeast dough, usually in in the from yeast made from BRIOCHE -- Cake made BRIOCHE as aa pressed into into the the top top as ball pressed smaller ball with aa sm shape of aa bail aller bail 'head'. yeast until until the with baker's yeast Brioches were were made in Paris Paris with made in Brioches yeast, which had had eighteenth century. Brewer's yeast, middle of the eighteenth was Austria, was and Austria, in Poland Poland and for aa long long time time in in use use for been been in when the of court of the court Lorraine when and Lorraine into Alsace Alsace and introduced into introduced of The brioches Lun6ville. The brioches of to Lunéville. King Stanislas was transferred to were centres, were marketing centres, great butter butter marketing and Gournay, Gournay, great Gisors and Gisors brioches: for Gisors gives aa recipe for Sansvoisin gives famous. famous. Sansvoisin Make aa baking. Make night before before baking. 'The dough is made made the the night dough is 'The g. 250 g. (lfi lb., Mix 250 and 77 eggs. eggs. Mix cups) flour and g. (1 lb., 77 cups) 750 g. dough of 750 (1 oz.) yeast. Mix with the the g. (t Mix with oz.) yeast. (9 oz., 10 g. with 10 cups) flour with (9 21 cups) o2.2* Keep g.(lt butter. Keep cups) butter. 1b.,3+ with 750 750 g. dough, (Ii lb., 3-!- cups) dough, together with in aa bowl. the dough in just before 'When ready into brioches brioches just shape into for baking, baking, shape ready for 'When in the the oven.' oven.' them in putting them given under heading are given under the the heading Various brioche doughs are brioche doughs Various

BRINDE -- Old French word for a two-handled wine-cup. BRINDE to which which is is often sea salt, salt, to BRINE. SAUMURE Solution of sea sAUMURE -- Solution added sugar, sugar, saltpetre and and aromatics. Preserving mixture added for foodstuffs. LIQUIDE -- For pickled tongues and Liquid brine. SAUMURE s^q.uuuRE LIeUIDE (4t quarts, 5t quarts) pressed beef. Boil in a large pan 5 litres (4} pressed (ll oz., g. (II l] cups) brown 2t ke.(5 kg. (5 lb.) rock salt, oz., It salt, 300 g. water, 2I juniper (5 oz.) peppercorns, 15 15 juniper sugar, 150 g. (5 15 peppercorns, 150 g. oz.) saltpetre, 15 sugar, berries, a a sprig of thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. Boil for for 25 25 minutes berries, and leave to cool. Prick the tongues, and place and saltpetre, saltpetre, and Prick tongues, rub with salt salt and in Pour in in the brine, and coyer cover the the receptacle in aa receptacle. Pour brine, and wood, pressing it weil with aa piece of smooth wood, well down down on on the the tongues. Keep in aa cool 'place place for for six in summer, six days in summer, eight tongues. in ter. in win winter. Full pickle for cRANDE SAUMURE SAUMUR-E -for various various meats. meats. GRANDE Full brine pickle (5t gallons, Pour gallons, 77 gallons) gallons) water into aa large water into litres (51 Pour 25 25 litres

Brioches Brioches (ScamGfi) (Scarnati)

153 153 Cauliflower Cauliflower ài la/a polonaise polonaise (Phol. (Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas)

BRIOLET BRIO LET DOUGH. For For the preparation of the preparation various hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre and and of various DOUGH. (See small hot hot entrée entrie dishes, dishes, aa standard standard brioche brioche isis made. made. (See small BRIOCHE DOUGH DOUGH 1I aod and II.) II.) BRIOCHE pAm ÀI BRIOCHE Standard brioche brioche dough. dough. PÂTE BRrocHE COMMUNE coMMUNE -Standard Proceed as as described described in in the (see recipe for the recipe for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see Proceed DOUGH). DOUGH). pArs ÀA BRIOCHE Dough for for brioche brioche mousseline. mousseline. PÂTE BRrocrrE MOUSSELINE MoussELrNE Dough (see DOUGH), Make aa Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (14 oz., DOUGH), using using 400 4ffi g.g. (14 oz., -- Make (18 oz., lf, cups) g. (18 cups) butter and 500 butter and 500 g. 4t cups) cups) fioUL oz., 41 flour. Add Add 60 60 g.g. là(2| oz., o2.,5 tablespoons) softened g. (1(l lb.) softened butter butter to to each each 500 lb.) 500 g. (21 5 tablespoons) dough. dough.

::':::

Brioche mousseline Brioche mousseline

Fruit briochin. briochin. BRIOCHIN BRrocHrN AUX Fruit Aux FRUITS FRUrrs -- Line Line aaflan flan ring ring with with firm brioche brioche dough, dough, adding adding aa layer (q.v.). firm layer of frangipane (q.v.). of frangipane Steep sliced Steep sliced or or diced diced fruit fruit in in liqueur, liqueur, place place on on the frangipane, the frangipane, and cover cover with and with brioche brioche dough. dough. Leave Leave to rise for for an to rise an hour, hour, brush with with beaten beaten egg, brush egg, and and bake bake in in aa fairly fairly hot hot oven. oven.

en couronne couronne Brioche en

en couronne -- Roll Roll brioche dough dough into into aa round round Brioche en place on loaf, place on aa baking baking sheet sheet in in the the shape shape of of aa crown, crown, and loaf, and on the surface. Brush Brush with with beaten make aa few light incisions on egg and and bake bake in in aa moderate oven. egg

Brioche àti tête t0te

Large Large brioche brioche ài tête. t6te. GROSSE cRossE BRIOCHE r0rs -- Roll BRrocHE ÀA TÊTE Roll aa piece of brioche dough piece into aa baIl place in dough into in aa buttered ball and and place buttered mould. Make aa hole hole in in the the dough dough and into itit aa small and put into small ball ball of the dough, tapered point. Make aa few tapered to aa point. few light light incisions incisions on on the the surface of the dough, dough, brush brush with beaten egg egg and and bake bake in aa hot oven. pETrrEs BRIOCHES SmaII Small brioches. brioches. PETITFS BRrocHEs -- Bake Bake in in small small fluted fluted moulds in the the same as Large brioche àd tête. same way as t€te.

Brioche Goubard Brioche Goubard

Brioche Goubard Goubaud -- Line a buttered cake tin with brioche dough. dough. Roll Roll out out another another piece piece of dough, pieces, dough, cut cut into pieces, moulding them them into little little pies. pies. Stuff them them with a salpicon with a (q.v.) of preserved preserved fruit which which has has been steeped steeped in rum rum or liqueur. liq ueur. Fill Fi]] the cake tin with the pies, leave to rise in a warm place, place, brush with beaten egg egg and bake. bake. When removed from the the oven, brush brusb the pie-tops with diluted apricot apricot jam. Brioche mousseline mousseline -- This is baked baked in a tall mould, mould, further heightened heigh tened by by buttered greaseproofpaper greaseproof paper tied tied round round top. Butter and three-parts fill it with Mousseline Mousseline Butter the mould and brioche brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). Leave to rise and and bake in a moderate moderate oven. oven. Cheese BRIOCHE AU AU FRoMAGn FROMAGE - Dice Dice or or grate Cheese brioche. brioche. BRrocr{E 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese, and knead into 2 kg. kg. (+| (41 lb.) ordinary ordinary dough. dough. Leave Leave to to rise, rise, and bake bake in in a buttered mould. mould. Filled. bohémienne. snlocHEs BRIOCHES cARNrEs GARNIES A À LA Filled. brioches brioches Ià la boh6mienne. BoH6MIENI.IE BOHÉMIENNE -- Small brioches, brioches, three-quarters three-quarters scooped scooped out and and filled filled with with various various mixtures: mixtures: mousses, mousses, pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, etc. etc.

BRIOLET -- Slang Slang word word synonymous with with another another slang slang word, piquette (i.e., (i.e., wine of poor quality). quality). An An allusion allusion to to aa Brie wine which is is rather mediocre. BRIOU BRIOLI (Corsican cookery) -- Chestnut meal, prepared in meal, prepared in the same way as as polenta, with the addition of milk or cream. cream. BRIONNE -- Name BRIONI\E Name for for chayote, chayote, aa vegetable vegetable of of the the Cucurbitaceae Cucur bit aceae family. famrly. (See CHAYOTE.) CHAYOTE.)

BRISSE (Baron) BRISSE Author of of culinary culinary works which whic-h were oot not @aron) -- Author always accurate. always accurate. His books include la la Cuisine Cuisine àd l'usage l'usage des des ménages bourgeois bourgeois et des petits ménages, la Pettte Petite cuisine minages et des cuisine du du mdnages,la 366 menus, ail published in the baron Brfsse Biisse and and,366 menus,all the latter latter part of of the nineteenth ceotury. bad aa high-flown tic style, century. He had high-flown roman romantic style, speaking of of turkeys 'in blossom', aod speaking and is is remembered remembered for for his his curiosity value value rather rather than for gastronomy. curiosity INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. BRITAIN -- See See INTERNATIONAL BRITAIN

154 t54

BRITTAbIY BRITTANY

Sampling Sampling the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of Brittany Brittany (French (French Government Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office)

A Breton Breton farmhouse farmhouse (Fren (French Governmen/ Tourist Touris/ Ofice) Office) A ch Government

Among Among the poultryparticular poultry-particular mention mention should be be made made of of ducklings and succulent succulent young young turkeys. Ground Ground the Nantes ducklings and winged game are famous. Roscoff Roscoff cauliflowers cauliflowers and and artichokes artichokes are are sent sent to to the the markets markets of London London and and Paris. Paris. Breton potatoes potatoes must must be be mentioned, mentioned, and and Plougastel Plougastel strawberries strawberries and and apples apples are are noteworthy. noteworthy. Cider is the usual drink BeveragesBeverages - Cider drink of of the Bretons. Among Among are those the famous famous growths growths are those of of Pleudihen, Pleudihen, Fouesnant, the Saint-F6r6ou. Clohars and Saint-Féréou. dry white The Loire-Atlantique The Loire-Atlantique produces an an excellent excellent dry white young: the The name drunk young: wine, best the Muscadet. Muscadet. The wine, best drunk of vine, the 'Muscadet' is is the local appellation for for aa variety of the Burgundy introduced into was introduced 'melon', that was into Brittany from from Burgundy are two Muscadets, that in the the seventeenth century. There are in that the Loire. and that of the banks of the of Sèvres-et-Maine Sdvres-et-Maine and

BRITTANY. BRETAcNE BRETAGNE - Choice food products products are found BRITTAhIY. in abundance in Brittany, whether they originate in the the sea sea or on land. Excellent sheep (notably 'salt-meadow' 'salt-meadow' sheep) ca ttle are raised. and cattle Breton larder is is well weil stocked with all ail sorts of foods The Breton and all ail of first-class quality. Let Let us us grve give a rapid survey of and these. these. oysters, Among the seafoods are are Cancale and Morbihan oysters, and oysters found found in in the the rivers rivers Auray Auray and and Belon; clams, clams, and oysters cockles, winkles, onners, ormers, haliotes, spiny lobsters, lobsters, scallops, winkles, cockles, scallops, conger eels (which are cra bs, shrimps, eels (which sardines, conger Lorient sardines, crabs, shrimps, Lorient made into cotriade, cotiade, so popular with the Breton fishermen), made soles, soles, turbot, brill, plaice, mackerel, herrings, tunny. The ri vers produce pike, carp, trout, eels, the Odet eels, shad; the rivers good quality; and is of good Meat is famous. Meat are famous. and Aulne Aulne salmon salmon are mutton and pork are are excellent.

NOR. MANDY

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;;,,H';ilt" blonc. Flit cakes. 6urlli

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ATLANTIC ATLANTIC OCEA

'gg' ~ Vineyards Brittany mapof of Brittany Gastronomie Gastronomic map 155 155

BROCCIO BROCCIO The region of of Nantes Nantes also producesaaV.D.Q.S., alsoproduces V.D.e.S., the thebest best The region of the wines, very dry with withaa hint hintof ofacidity acidity which whichisis much much of the wines, very dry appreciated byconnoisseurs. connoisseurs. ItIt isisan anexcellent excellent accompaniaccompaniappreciated by ment for fish and shellfish. ment for fish and shellfish. Culinary specialities specialities - The The best best known known are areCornouaille Cornouaille Culinary

mixture of vegetables, such ofvegetables. such as ascarrOIs, carrots, onions, onions, Ieeks, leeks, 2.2.AA mixture celeryand and sometimes sometimes turnips turnipsslowly slowly cooked cooked inin butter. This butter.This celery sort of of brunoise brunoiseisis used usedfor for making making soups soupsor or asasaasupplesupplesort mentaryelement element for for certain certain forcemcats, forcemeats, sauces and sauces and mentary (q.v.). salpicons (q.v.). salpicons mixture of of vegetables vegetables eut cut into into small dice which which isis small dice 3.3. AA mixture an aromatic used as as an aromatic element element for for crayfish crayfish and and other other dishes. dishes. used (SeeCRAYF1SH, CRAYFISH, TRUFFLES.) TRUFFLES.) (See

buckwheat and bacon soup; cotriade - the soup of the Breton buckwheat and bacon .lOUp; cotrinde - the soup of the Breton fishermen similar similar to (q.v.) of to the the chaudrée chaudrCe (q.v.) of the the Aunis Aunis sailors; sailors; fishermen Morlaix Hams; liams; Ancenis Ancenis andouilles andouilles and andsausages, sausages, large large Morlaix anQuil!9s de de Bretagne; excellent black puddings; euimperl6 andouilles Bretagne; excellent black puddings; Quimperlé andouilletes; pike pike au an beurre beurre blanc; blanc; shad shad àd lala crème; crdme; Nantes Nintes andouille/es; bacon; roast leg of of salt-meadow salt-meadow lamb lamb with with beans beansca called,d bacon; roast leg lied 'à faIa br e tonne' ; buckwhe at g ir dle cak es and pancakes ; euimperlO bretonne'; buckwheal girdlecakes and pancakes; Quimperlé oat loaf loaf àd lala crème; uime; Quimper pancakes; Morlaix Morlaix brioches; brioches; Quimper pancakes; oal Lorient and and Quimper cakes; Ren (a kind Rennes mingaux (a kind of of Quimper cakes; Lorient nes mingaux cream cheese cheese similar similar to to the the Saumur Saumur crémets); crimets); Nantes Nantes fiai /al cream guillarets; biscuits. cakes and and guillarels; biscaits. cakes BROCCIO See CHEESE. BROCCIO -- See CHEESE.

Vegetable brunoise brunoise for for soups. soups. DRUNOlSE BRUNoTSE DE or LÉGUMES rEcurr,ms Vegetable Cut the the following following into into dice dice about about 33 mm. mm. - Cut inch) across: across: 33 small (150 g., small carrots carrots (150 g., 55 oz.), oz.), 1 small turnip turnip (!($ inch) I small (100 gg., (75 g., oz.),22 leeks leeks (75 (25 g., oz.),11 very g., very small small onion onion (25 (IOO .. 44 oz.), 3 oz.), 8.,3 oz.) and and 22 stalks (50 g., stalks wbite white celery celery (50 g., 22 oz.). oz.). Season Season these these 1I oz.) vegetables wi with pinch of salt and and aa pinch fine sugar of fine sugar and and simmer simmer vegetables th salt them in in aa covered pan on covered pan (2 oz., low heat on aa low g. (2 heat with with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) them ! cup) butter. When When they they are are nicely nicely softened add 22 dl. pint, softened add dl. (1(| pint, butter. scant cup) cup) stock stock and and leave leave to to cook cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. At At the the seant last moment, add add aa tablespoon tablespoon cooked garden peas cooked garden peas and and aa la st moment, tablespoon diced diced French French string string beans. beans. tablespoon Add 22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons of of trus this mixture to (scant to every every litre litre (seant Add quart, generous generous quart) quart) soup. soup. quart, porJR porAGEs

POUR POTAGES -

BROCCOU. cgor.x BROCOLIS BRocoLF - The The flower flower heads heads whieh which BROC COLI. CHOUX develop in in the the leafaxils leaf axils are are eaten eaten before before they grown. they are are fully fully grown. develop They are also called broccoli tips. All methods of preparation They are aJso caUed broccoli tips. Ail methods ofpreparalion given for cauliflower cauliflower apply apply to to broccoli. broccoli. given for The fiower in this flower in this type type of cabbage is generally very of cabbage is generally very smal!. small. The Broccoli isis also also eaten for its eaten for its leaves leaves as as weil well as as its its fiowers. flowers. Broccoli BROCKET. DAGUET DAcuEr - The The na name given to young stag, to aa young stag, BROCKET. me given year and between one one year and eighteen eighteen months months old. The French old. The French between name dague/ daguet comes comes from from dague, dague, dagger, dagger, and and refers refen to to the the name young stag's shape of of the the young stag's horns. horns. shape In cookery, ail all recipes recipes for (q.v.) are for roebuck roebuck (q.v.) are suitable suitable for for ln cookery, brocket. brocket. BROOKLIME. sscclBuNcA - This plant is This plant is also also called called BROOKLIME. BECCABUNGA water pimpernel. is aa kind kind of of European European cress cress which water pimpernel. It is which grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. grows wild on the banks of streams and ponds. It is eaten in salads like like watercress watercress and and can Il is eaten in salads can be be prepared prepared in all the (see CRESS). suitable for in ail the ways ways suitable for the the latter latter (see CRESS). It as a salad. 11 is is ordinarily ordinarily used used as a condiment condiment for for salad. BROUILLY Famous BROUILLY -- Famous red red Beaujolais Beaujolais wine. wine.

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prNcBAU Kitchen tool consisting of hair or bristle BRUSH. PINCEAU BRUSH. -- Kitchen tool consisting of or attached toa to ahandleused forbrushingwith meltedbutter or.oil 3ttached handleused for brushingwith melted butter or oil various articles articles intended intended for grilling. for grilling. various The brush brush isis also also used pastry-making, for used in in pastry-making, for buttering buttering The baking tins tins and and other other utensils, utensils, and and for brushing the the tops tops of of baking pastries wi with beaten egg. pastries th bea ten egg.

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BRUSSEI-S SPROUTS, SPROUTS. CHOUX cHoux DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES -- The buds BRUSSElS which develop develop in in Ihe the Ieafaxils leaf axils are are ealen eaten between October which and the the end end of of March. March. and Boiled Brussels Brussels sprouts. sprouts. CHOUX cHolrx DE BRuxELLEs A Boiled DE BRUXELLES À L'ANcLArsE - Trinl Trim the sprouts, which L'ANGLAISE the sprouts, which means means removing removing outer leaves which outer leaves which are either too hard hard or too withered, and cutting the of each sproul. sprout. Wash them well. cutting the base base of weil. Cook sprouts in salted water and drain. drain. Cook the the sprouts in boiling boiling salted water and Serve fresh butter Serve fresh butter separately. separately. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts with with cream. cream. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA cntMe -- Half cook the sprouts in salted boiling water, drain Half cook CRÈME well, weIl, and and simmer simmer in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with boiling hoiling fresh cream cream to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. The The sprouts sprouts can can also also be be moistened moistencd with with a a Creon Creœn sauce sauce (ser., (see SAUCE) SAUCE) instead instead of cream. cream. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il I'indienne. l'indienne. cno(rx CHOUX DE DE BRUxELrrs BRUXELLES A À L'INDIENNE L'INDIENNE -- Simmer Simmer the the sprouts in in butter butter and and moisten moisten with with aa curry curry sauce. sauce. Surround Surround with with a border border of rice riee cooked cooked the the Indian lndian way way (see (see RICE). RICE). Brusseb Brussels sprouts sprout~ in gfavy. gravy. cHolrx CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES AU AU JUs JUS Simmer Sim mer the the sprouts sprouts in in butter butter until unril cooked, cooked, then then add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons rich rich veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook aa little little longer longer so so that that the the sprouts sprouts can can get get well weil soaked soaked in in the the gravy. gravy. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts iil la la milanaise. milanaise, cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUxELLTs BRUXELLES A À LA MILANATSE-Boil MILANAISE - Boil the the sprouts sprouts and and drain drain them them well. weIl. Heap Heap them them on on aa buttered buttered dish dish which which has has been been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with more more grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour melted melted butter butter over over the the sprouts, sprouts, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve with with Noisette Noisel/e butter bul/er (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Brussels Brussels sprouts sprollts Mornay. Mornay. cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRUXELLES BRUXELLES MoRNAy MORNAY This This isis prepared prepared in in the the same sa me way way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower Mornay Mornay (see (see CAULIFLOWER) CAULIFLOWER) with wilh the the sprouts sprouts heaped heaped on on aa gratin gratin dish. dish. Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts il la la polonaise. polonaise, cnoux CHOUX on DE nnuxnrrEs BR UXELLES AÀ poLoNAIsn LA LA POLONAISE -- Prepare Prepare like like Cauliflower Cauliflower aa lalapolonaise polonaise (see (see CAULIFLOWER). CA ULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts pur6e. purée. punnE PURÉE DE DE cHoux CHOUX DE DE BRTTxELLES BRUXELLES Prepare Prepare with with blanched blanched Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts simmered simmered in in butter, butter, ininthe thesameway same wayas asCauliflower Cauliflowerpurie(see purée (seeCAULIFLOWER). CAULIFLOWER). Brussels Brussels sproub sprouts salrd" salad.. seuoE SALADE DE DE cHor.x CHOUX DE DE BR{txELLEs BRUXELLES -

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BROUTES BROUTE..') or or BROUTONS BROUTONS @6arn (Béarn cookery) cookery) -- Old Old cabbage cabbage shoots, shoots, served served mainly mainly during during Lent. Lent. Trim and wash the cabbage and Trim and wash the cabbage and cook cook in in salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. In ln some sorne villages villages in in the the Basses-Pyr6ndei Basses-Pyrénées aa mixture mixture of of leeks leeks and and white white cabbage, cabbage, cooked cooked together, together, drained, drained, pressed pressed and and pieces, is also called broutes. cut into cut into pieces, is also called broutes. (B6arn BROYE BROYE (Béarn cookery) cookery)

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Meal Meal prepared prepared from from white white or or (corn) roasted roasted maize maize (corn) flour. fiOUL 'If 'If white, white, that that is is to to say say unroasted, unroasted, flour fiour is is used, used, make make the the broye hraye u as an an ordinary ordinary bouilli. bouilli. Bring Bring some some vegetable vegelable stock stock or or simply simply salted saited water water to to the the boil boil and and little little by by little littie add add the the flour flour until uni il aa paste paste of of aa fairly fairly firm firm consistency consistency is is obtained. obtained. 'When 'When the the bouilli bouilli is is cooked, cooked, and and itit should should be be stirred stirred all ail the time during cooking it is served with a ladle, which the lime during cooking, it is served with a lad le, which should be dipped in fat prevent to should be dipped in fat to prevent the the bouilli bouilli sticking sticking to to it. il. 'Ifroasted 'Jf roastcd flour fiour isis used used (troustado (IrouS/ado or or tourrado, lourrado, as as they they say say in B6arn), you make aa well in Béarn), you make weil out out of ofit, it, moisten moisten with with the the liquid liquid indicated, blend well and proceed to cook. indicated, blend weU and proceed to cook. 'Cold broye can be cut into 'Co Id broye can be cut into slices sliccs and and fried fried in in sizzling sizzling fat fal golden.' (From until until golden.' (From Ia la Cuisine Cuisine m en Biarn, Béarn, by by Simin Simin Palay.) Palay.) BRUGNON BRUGNON - A A French French name name for for nectarine nectarine or or smoothsmoolhpeach. skinned skinned peach. For For methods methods of ofpreparation, preparation, see see PEACH. PEACH.

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BRUNOISE BRUNOISE-- This This word word has has the the following following meanings: meanings: l.1. AA method method of of shredding shredding vegetables vegetables very very finely. finely. (Thus, (Thus, people speak of shredding carrots, leeks, celery, into a people speak of sbredding carroIs, leeks, celery, inlo a brunoise.) All these ingredients are then cooked in butter or brunoise.) Ali these ingredients arc then cooked in butter or

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some other fat. sorne other fal.

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156 156

BUFFET BUFFET NoIR -- Variety of Saracen corn. BUCKWHEAT. BLÉ nr6 NOIR BUCKWHEAT. DE SARRASIN, garnish). GRUAU cnueu DE sorry garnish). Buckwheat (Russian @ussian soup (l+* or 88 dl. dl. (1 to 77 or ke. (2* sl-f NOIR Non. -- Add Add 1I kg. buckwheat to BLÉ Q* lb.) buckwheat work to to aa smooth water and and work pints, salted wann water pints) salted pints, 1l|t pints) oven for 2 hours. in hot oyen paste. Press into aa deep pan; bake in the surface, surface, and has fonned formed on on the which has Remove the crust which touching mixture into a pan without touching tumout the buckwheat buckwheat mixture turnout bottom and on the sides of the crust which has formed at the bottom the dish. (4 oz., g. (4 cup) butter, butter, and with 100 100 g. oz., t* cup) dough with Work the the dough (f inch) thick. Leave to cm. (t spread out on aa slab until it is 2 cm. cool under a weight. pastry-crttter and and brown brown these with aa pastry-clltter into biscuits eut Cut into biscuits with is made made of the the crusts use is with broth. broth. No use with butter. butter. Serve with left in the dish. See KASHA. Buckwheat kasha -- See

which is is family which BUTFALO. BUFFLE -- Member Member of of the the ox ox family BUFFALO. World. Buffaloes found in hot, swampy swampy countries of the Old WorId. are domesticated in in Italy Italy and and Asia. Asia. The American American buffalo, are is much larger than the the Asiatic more properly called called bison, is flesh of The ftesh buffalo. This This animal animal isis fast fast becoming extinct. extinct. The of buffalo. prepared in any any manner Italian buffaloes can be prepared and Italian Asiatic and suitable beef (q.v.). suitable for beef(q.v.).

Festive Festive buffet, 1785 1785

Boil the Boil the sprouts, drain weil, well, and and arrange arrange in in aa salad salad bowl. Season Season with pepper. Sprinkle with oil, vinegar, salt oil, vinegar, and pepper. salt and Sprinkle with chopped chervil or with salad herbs. Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6ed in butter. CHOUX cHoux DE in butter. DE BRUXELLES BRUxELLEs SAUTÉS lightly slurfs AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Boil and drain the sprouts. Sauté Saut6lightly in butter they are in butter until until they are brown. brown. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley.

large The word means aa large word buffet buffet means BLTFFET (Restaurant) BUFFET @estaurant) -- The of aa restaurant, on on near the the entrance entrance of tiered tiered table table often often set set near and pastries fish, co cold which dishes of meats, poultry, fish, Id sweets sweets and large manner. The The buffet buffet of of aa large are are arranged in in aa decorative decorative manner. choice edibles. edibles. restaurant is, is, in in fact, fact, aa show show of of choice in or near aa ballor near foods set set in ballLarge tables play of display of foods tables with aa dis The food food isis dispensed by aa room room are are also also called called buffets. dispensed by buffets. The guests come come to the table table to to be be served served with buùer butler and and the the guests to the pastries, and drinks; or or to and various drinks; sandwiches, sandwiches, cold cold meats, pastries, in cups. Buffets of of this type are are also also have consommé consomm6 served cups. Buffets this type served in arranged arranged for wedding lunches. lunches.

(A LA) BRUXELLOISE (À LA) -- Garnish pieces of Garnish for for pieces of meat, small or large, large, composed composed of Brussels sprouts sprouts and and pommes château. chArcau. BUCCAN. BOUCAN BoucAN -- Place where Indians cured their meat. The pplies to The word grid on word also also aapplies to the actual grid the actual which the on which smoking was done.

Buffet (Arts décoratifs) Bufet at at Marly, Marly, 1859 1859 (Arts ddcoratif$

157 r57

BUFFET BUFFET

The Thebuffet buffet Anonymous painting of the l8th century exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M. Anonyroous painting of the 18th cent ury exhibited at the Pavillon de Marsan (1936) (M.Iion LéonHelft) Helft)

158 158

BULLY.BEEF BüLLY-BEEF

of Nantua General view of

giblets with with chestnuts; chestnuts; truffied giblets turkey; truffled ears; truffled truffied turkey; calves' ears; calves' Cilestine; chicken Céüwine; chickm fricassée; Bresse truffled truffied chicken; chicken; chicken Bresse fricassCe; chicken jugged hare de ChâtChdtgdteau de Diane de hare de de Diane de foies blondes; jugged gâteau foies blondes; Bugey salC of of Bugey The salé of woodcock. The eaumorand; Bernardini salmis of eaumorand; just as wateras anguries, anguries, aa waterregion, just is the national dish the region, the national dish of of the is Bugey The well-known well-known Bugey with Belley. The melon salad, is assoèiated assodiated with melon following at Christmas; Christmas; the following eaten at ftors-d'euvre eaten rissole is a hot hors-d'œuvre proportions will make aa dozen rissoles. dozen rissoles. proportions pieces. Clean Clean g. (9 into small small pieces. roast turkey oz.) roast turkey into Cut 250 250 g. Cut e oz.) hours and cook cook for for 33 hours (5 oz.) cut up, up, and g. (5 thoroughly, cut 150 g. tripe thoroughly, oz.) tripe 150 (q.v.) beef stock, stock, wine and and beef white wine of white in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q. in v.) of bouquet of of pepper, onions and aa small small bouquet onions and with salt, salt, pepper, seasoned with seasoned in butter without onion in butter without chopped onion chervil. Cook Cook aa chopped and chervil. thyme and and with salt meats, season season with salt and add the the meats, allowing itit to to brown, brown, add allowing juices, quantity of roast turkey turkey juices, pepper, moisten of roast with aa small small quantity moisten with pepper, liquor has has until the the liquor minutes. Simmer Simmer until for 55 or and sauté or 66 minutes. saut6 for and (2 oz., cup) large large add 50 oz., t* cup) and add 50 g.g. (2 half, and boiled down down by by half, boiled cool. Leave to to cool. currants. Leave currants. (* inch) inch) pastry, roll about 55 mm. mm. (t puff pastry, roll out out about Make sorne some puff Make onto filling onto rectangles. Spoon Spoon sorne some filling into small small rectangles. cut into thick, cut thick, in the and bake bake in the with beaten egg, and fold over, beaten egg, brush with these, fold over, brush these, oyen. oven.

years ago ago the A few few years cARE -- A BUFFET (Station). BUFFET DE DE GARE BUFFEI (Station). series of Railways) initiated aa series S.N.C.F. (National French French Railways) S.N.C.F. and gastonomiques'. Those Lille, Épernay Epernay and Those of of Lille, 'buffets 'buffets gastronomiques'. reputation. A vignon have an especially especially high reputation. Avignon and BUFFETER -- Action of drawing-off wine from aa barrel and drawing-offwine to mean buffet' used used to 'Servir àd buffet' replacing water. 'Servir replacing it it with with water. watered guests with which had had been liberally watered serving guests with wine which down.

part of today the which isis today BUGEY -- Includes of Savoy Savoy which Includes the the part was born in Belley, born in département Brillat-Savarin was Ain. Brillat-Savarin departemeil of of Ain. of Bugey. dlpartement of which old département the old town of the which was the the chief town in France. France. among the best in The The cuisine caisine of of this area is said to be among and ail all for its its crayfish, crayfish, and Nantua, celebrated for Nantua, in in particular, isis celebrated there. The The found there. the are to to be be found famous cheeses of Burgundy are the famous cheeses of plump capons, chickens, ducks ducks markets capons, chickens, choice plump markets are are full full of of choice pike abound abound in in and pike and lamb. Trout Trout and and the best salt-meadow lamb. the best perch and and lavaret, perch the lake supplies supplies lavaret, and the the rivers, and the Bourget lake and the the hillsides and char. ,are noted, noted, and and the the hillsides hams,are The country char. The country hams also game. This fertile region region also plains This fertile provide succulent plains provide succulent game. great variety variety of of other other prod uces truffles, produces morels, and and aa great truffies, morels, mushrooms. Belley Culinary usage ; Belley sausage; klley sa ham; Belley Salt ham; Cnlinary specialities specialities -- Salt 'cardinalised crayfish fondue; crayfish croq' crayfish';'; crayfishcroqBugey rissoles; rissoles; 'cardinalised fondue; Bugey du lafagon du uettes; char àd lafaçon la Nantua; Nantua; char tails àd la uettes; timbale timbale of of crayfish crayfish tails gdteaux; crayfish tails au au lac quenelles and crayfish tails lavaret gâteaux; and lavaret lac du du Bourget; Bourget; quenelles truffie s ; gratin la crème ;fillet ofbeefstuddedwith black truffles; gr at in ;pikeà ; pike d la cr dme fille t of be ef s tudde d wit h black Y ah omey braised ions ;; round v e al with w it h Valromey of veal w it h on onions r ound of br aise d leg le g of mut t on with of mutton stufed black black truffles; tufies; stuffed and black sweetbreads and black morels; morels: ca/ves' calves' sweetbreads

for anchusa, name for anchusa, aa BUGLossE -- Common Common name BUGLOSS. BUGLOSSE BUGLOSS. as aa salad, flowers are are eaten eaten as salad, plant also known as as alkanet. alkanet.Its also known plant l ts f10wers great have been been aa great said to have and sa tonic, and considered to to be be aa tonic, considered id to leaves are are eaten eaten regions the the leaves In sorne Louis XIII. XIII. In some regions favourite of of Louis favourite prepared the as spinach. way as spinach. same way the same prepared

;

dough rolled-out dough made from from roJied-out fritter, made kind of of fritter, A kind BUGNES -- A BUGNES 'capital' of the of the Lyons isis the the 'capital' oil. Lyons fried inin oil. and fried which isis cut cut up up and which bugnes. bugnes.

plant Biennial plant BULBEUX -- Biennial cERFEUIL BULBEUX CHERVIL. BULBOUS VIL. CERFEUIL BULBOUS CHER fecula rich inin fecula are rich which are roots, which for its its tuberous tuberous roots, cultivated cultivated for prepared roots are are prepared flavour. The The roots aromatic flavour. and and have have aa strong strong aromatic artichokes. like Chinese Chinese artichokes. like

Bugey Bugey crayfish crayfish

young bulls that than that tougher than bulls isis tougher Flesh of of young TAUREAU -- Flesh BULL. BLTLL. TAUREAU very quality. The flesh of animalsisisvery good quality. The f1esh ofold old animais but of of good of of beef, beef, but musky inin taste. taste. and often often musky tough, tough,and meat for tinned tinned meat term for Slang tenu BULL Y-BEEF. ENDAUBAGE ENDAUBAcE - - Slang BLJLLY-BEEF. forces. armed forces. the armed supplied to the supplied to 159 159

BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH BUNDENFLEISCH -- German German word word meaning meaning Grisons Grisons salt salt BUNDENFLEISCH beef. beef. piece of Pickle aa lean lean piece meat for for 66days, of meat days, take out of take out of the the brine brine Pickle and hang hang for for 55 or or 66 months. months. This pickling isis done This pickling done in in the the and Swiss canton canton of of Grisons Grisons in in November, November, and and the the salted meat salted meat Swiss public the sold to to the the public following April. the following April. When When taken taken out out of of the the sold put in brine itit isis put in aa smoke-curing smoke-curing house house for for one one day, day, except except brine in the the Engadine, Engadine, where pickling isis done where pickling done commercially commercially on on aa in large scale, and the scale, and the beef beef isis not not smoke-cured. smoke-cured. large BUNG. BONDE BoNDE -- Wooden Wooden stopper stopper for for barrel barrel bung-holes. bung-holes. BUNG.

BURGUNDY. BOURGOGNE souncocNE - - Burgundy Burgundy isis the the region region of of BURGUNDY. France where where the food isistoto be the best bestfood had, and and itit enjoys behad, enjoysthe the France gastronomes for esteemof of gastronomes quality and for the the quality and variety variety of its ofits esteem wines. wines. We are are beholden beholden to its excellent to its excellent cuisine for aamethod cuisine for method of of We preparation called called àd lala bourguignonne, bourguignonne, used used mainly mainly for for preparation large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat, meat, also also for poultry;aa for eggs, eggs, fish fishand andpoultry; large red wine garnish of wine sauce sauce with with aa gamish mushrooms and of mushrooms and small red small onions. on ions. Ain isis the poultry isis raised; the district district where where the the best best poultry raised, and and Ain where the the town town of of Belley, Belley, associated associated with with Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, isis where situated. Nantua Nantua evokes evokes visions visions of crdme; Saôneof crayfish crayfish àrila/acrème; Sa6nesituated. et-Loire has has the given its the town town of of Mâcon, Mdcon, which which bas hasgiven its name name to to et-Loire one of of our our best best wines; wines; the Dijon, may the Côte-d'Or, C6te-d'Or, with with Dijon, may be besaid one said to be be one one of produces gastronomy; the of the the capi capitals of gastronomy; Yonne produces the Yonne tais of to Chablis wines, gourmets. wines, esteemed esteemed by by gourmets. Chablis The Burgundy Burgundy larder larder isis abundantly abundantly rich. pasture rich. ln In the The the pasture lands of of Charolais give succulent Charolais the the cattie cattle give lands succulent beef. The beef. The poultry of Bresse isis considered considered among of Bresse among the the best in France. France. poultry best in ground and In Morvan, Morvan, ground game abounds. and winged winged game abounds. The In The woodwoodcock of of the the Dombes Dombes marshes marshes isis unrivalled. unrivalled. cock ponds, rivers In the rivers and the ponds, pike, char, and streams, In streams, pike, char, trout, trout, trout and and crayfish crayfish are are found. salmon trout found. The The escargots salmon escargots of of Burgundy are are most most succulent. Burgundy succulent. Among Among other other excellent excellent products are are Courtivron Courtivron and and Oyonnax Oyonnax morels, products morels, St St George's George's agaric, cèpes cipes and and other mushrooms, found other mushrooms, found in agaric, in abundance abundance in in the woods woods and and fields, fields, and and the the cboice the choice vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in Auxonne and around Auxonne and around Dijon. Dijon. in The fruit fruit of Burgundy orchards of the The the Burgundy orchards isis famous: famous: SaintSaintBris cherries; cherries; and and blackcurrants Bris blackcurrants used not only prepare used not only to to prepare famous Cassis Cassis liqueur liqueur made made in the famous in Dijon, Dijon, but also for but also for aa vast vast of sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Dijon Dijon mustard mustard isis considered number of considered the the best; best; condiments seasoned pickled gherkins, condiments seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, such gherkins, as pickled such as are also also made in in Dijon. Dijon. are The region region which, The which, with with Bordeaux Bordeaux and proand Champagne, Champagne, produces magnificent magnificent wines, produces excellent duces wines, produces excellent cheeses cheeses to to

BUNTING. BRUANT BRUANT -- Genus Genus of aquatic, web-footed of aquatic, web-footed birds, birds, BUNTING. found in in the the marches marches of Bresse and of Bresse and Dauphiné. Dauphin6. ItIt isis prepared prepared found in the (see DUCK, the same same way way as as wild wild duck duck (see DIJCK,'Wild duck). in Wild duck). BLJRBOT. LOTTE LorrE DE nB RIVIÈRE nrvrinr -- Species Species of of freshwater freshwater fish fish BURBOT. with long long dorsal dorsal fins, fins, aa long long tail tail fin, fin, and and drooping drooping barbels barbels with on the the chin. chin. on Bubot Iiver. liver. FOIE ron DE DE LOTTE LorrE DE oE RIVIÈRE Rrwtns -- Prepared Prepared in in the the Burbot same way way as as the the soft roes of of various various fish, soft roes fish, tbough though itit requires requires same longer poaching poaching than than soft roes. soft roes. longer The liver liver is is highly prized by highly prized poached connoisseurs. It by connoisseurs. It isis poached The in white white wine wine and and used garnishes. ItIt isis used for for various various Lenten Lenten gamishes. in also made (q.v.). pdti (q.v.). made into into pâté also

(Butter-bur, Beggar's BLTRDOCK (Butter-bor, Beggar's buttons). buttons). BARDANE BARDANE -BURDOCK perennial plant Hardy perennial plant which grows grows along along paths on on the the roadroadHardy in the hedgerows. hedgerows. It side and and in It isis also also called called herbe herbe aux aux teigneux teigneux side (scurvy grass) grass) because in the past its because in the past its leaves leaves were were used used as as (scurvy poultices for for certain kinds kinds of sores. sores. The The fresh fresh spring spring root is is poultices well known known as as aa depurative and particularly useful is particularly and is useful in in the the weil treatment of of furunculosis. treatment The tea tea made made from from its its leaves leaves is is refreshing and and stimula stimulates tes The the digestion. digestion. It It soothes inflammations inflammations of the the stomach stomach and and the is an an excellent remedy remedy for for stomach stomach ulcers. is young shoots and In Scotland young peeled roots and peeled roots of of burdock In are used in in cooking; cooking; they are prepared as are prepared as salsify. are

Spring in in Burgundy Burgundy Spring

160 160

BURGUNDY BURGUNDY Butteaux, Butteaux, Germigny, Germigny, Pougny, Pougny, the the famous famous Epoisses Époisses cheeses cheeses

(which (which are are made made in in the the Yonne), Yonne), Saint-Florentin, Saint-Florentin, Passin Passin best which, which, according according to to some sorne experts, experts, is is as as good good as as the the. best Sa6ne-etthe and goat cheeses Morvan varioui Gruydre, Gruyère, various Morvan goat cheeses and the Saône-et-

Loire cream cheeses. Loirecream cheeses. great For For centuries centuries Burgundy Burgundy has has been been the the land land of of great given gastronomical gastronomical feasts. feasts. The The most most characteristic characteristic were were given at at the the time time of of grape-harvesting. grape-harvesting. Phil6as Philéas Gilbert Gilbert wrote wrote aa description of these these feasts: feasts: 'From 'From the the moment moment the the village village description of crier crier had had sounded sounded the the call cali (the (the roll roll of of the the drum drum before before the the the and vigne proclamation), père de de la la vigne and the proclamation), when when only only the the pire masters masters of of wine wine layering layering had had the the word, word, until until the the evening, evening, press was when of grapes grapes crushed crushed by by the the wine wine press was when the the last last cask cask of joy and song. all was vats, poured poured into into the the vats, ail was joy and song. 'And 'And as as aa compensation compensation for for the the mid-day mid-day meal, meal, the the supper supper potig traditional with the feast, promised a veritable menu menu promised a veritable feast, with the traditional potée its its roiust robust fragrance fragrance teasing teasing the the men men and and women women wine wine choux harvesters it was was ready. ready . La La tisane tisane fu de choux harvesters long long before before it was Then there say. sucrie as Henri Henri II Il used used to to say. Then there was sucrée avec avec de de lard, lard, as for the occasion sacrificed a and sheep, goose taribaude, d la goose à la taribaude, and a sheep, sacrificed for the occasion The strange yet ind and transformed transformed into into strange yet exquisite exquisite ragofits. ragoûts. The

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Display Display of of grapes grapes and and apples apples from from Dijon Dijon

accompany accompany them. them. Among Among those those highly higbly esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes gastronomes are are Gex Gex blue-veined blue-veined cheese cheese which which has has aa certain certain Soumaintrain, CiteaLx, similarity to to Roquefort; Roquefort; Soumaintrain, Cîteaux, Beugnon, Beugnon,

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BURGUNDY flesh of grandam of of tbis this sheep, sheep, the the grandam flock, at of the the flock, at times times tasted tasted flesh (to say grease (to of wool wool grease nothing of say nothing of its its toughness!) toughness !) but, but, to to of jugs poured go down, make itit go pot-bellied jugs down, the the pot-bellied poured forth forth cool cool make 'plenty of wine; itit was was 'plenty grub' and of grub' and carousing carousing to to one's one's heart's heart's wine; content ... . ".. content 'Ah! Those Those admirable admirable Burgundian Burgundian meals, meals, when great when aa great 'Ah! profusion of delectable dishes of delectable dishes isis served, served, such as escargotssuch as escargots profusion la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, naturally! naturally! -- meurelle (q.v.) of meurette (q,v.) various of various ild la (q.v.) with frsh; andoui/lelles andouillettes (q.v.) with beans; (q.v.) beans; aa succulent succulent dflube daube (q.v.) fish; of beef; beef; the the traditional traditional ferchuse la ménagère, minagire, fiammiche ferchuse ild la of flammiche poireaux,fouie au aux poireaux,fouée au lard, lard, and and the the Burgundy Burgundy rigodon rigodon!'l' aux Cnfinary specialities specialities -- To To Philéas Phildas Gilbert, Gilbert, the the escargot, escargot, Colinary prepared in in accordance accordance with with Burgundian Burgundian rites, rites, eaten eaten prepared scalding hot hot as as itit isis taken taken out garlic-scented butter out of its garlic-scented of its butter scalding gastronomy of bath, symbolises symbolises the the gastronomy of Burgundy, Burgundy. But But there there isis bath, an infinite infinite variety variety of of other other dishes, dishes, recipes recipes for for which which will will be be an found in in alphabetical alphabetical order. order. found Potie bourguignonne, bourguignonne, which which isis similar similar to various French to various French Potée poties, for for each each region region of France has pofte; pochouse pochouse of France has its its potée; potées, (q.v.) and and various various freshwater freshwater fish (q.v.); beef fish matelotes matelotes (q.v.); beef ild la ta (q.v.) bourguignonne, which which must must be made with be made with red red wine; wine; round round of of bourguignonne, veal ild la la crème; crime; andouille andouille wilh with white (a white beans; beans; ferchuse ferchuse (a vea/ corruption of of the the word word fressure, pluck); daube i.e. pluck); daube bourbourfressure, i.e. corruption guignonne;flammiche with with /eeks;fouée, leeks;foude,whichis cream flan flan guignonne;fiammiche which is aa cream filled with with slices slices of of bacon bacon and and sprinkled sprinkled with with walnut walnut oil; oil; filled poulet young pigeons au sang; sang; young gobinette; canard la gobineue; canard au au pou/el au pigeons ilh la jugged hare laurier; jugged hare àd /a la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; saddle saddle of of hare hare àd la la laurier; Piron; omelelle omelette au au sang. sang. Piron; There are are pike la crème; udme; Amay-le-Duc Arnay-le-Duc andouille; andouille; Sens Sens There pike àd la andauillette; Dijon Dijon ham honn wilh with parsley; the sausages sausages of of Belley Belley andouillelle; parsley; the (Brillat-Savarin's native crayfish tails tails àd la Nantua; la Nan/ua; (Brillat-Savarin's native place); place); crayfish pike quenelles wilh with crayfish; crayfisft; Pemollet Pernollet chicken chicken ild la la crème; crime; pike quenelles coq au &t chambertin; chambertin; sucking-pig sucking-pig ilit la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; ham coq Mm rigodon, and and aa whole of charcuterie: charcuterie: large and smal! small rigodon, whole range range of large and sausages; black black pudding and pork which are are made in sausages; pudding and pork pies, pies, which made in the Sa6ne-et-Loire and and in Côte-d'Or, Ain, Ain, Saône-et-Loire in Yonne. Yonne. the COte-d'Or, Among and pastries sweets and Burgundy Among the the cakes, cakes, sweets pastries of of the the Burgundy (which can region rigodon (q.v.) can also region are are the the rigodon (q.v.) (which also be be made made as as a dessert or or sweet sweet course); dessert course); Lower Lower Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes; cakes; Upper cakes known Upper Burgundy Burgundy girdle girdle cakes known as as pognoi; pognon; pancakes, pancakes, called called matefaims malefaims ifr iil Upper Upper Burgundy; Burgundy; bugnes bllgnes or or couques; coliques; and Auxerre Sens and Sens Auxerre gougire; gougère; Louhans Louhans corgniottes; co rgn io Iles ; chamoure chamoure -- aa kind kind of of marrow marrow flan flan which which is is mainly mainly made made in in Lower Lower Mflconnais; Mâconnais; fruit fruit tartouillat; larlouillal; tarte larle aux aux boulettes; bou/eues; flamusse fiamusse gaudes. bressane; and gaudes. bressane; and Among Among local local pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery specialities specialities are are Dijon and pain ipice; Avallon Dijon nonnettes nonnel/es and pain dd'épice; Avallon and and Chablis Chablis bis cuits ; Sens ingue s; Arnay-le-Duc biscuits; Sens macaroons macaroons;; Chabli Chabliss mer meringues; Amay-le-Duc mar z ip ans ; noug a t ine s ; bblackcurrant lac k cur r ant fondant s ; sug ar - c o a t e d marzipans; nougatines; fondants; sugar-coaled jams, among cherries cherries (cherries (cherries in in petticoats); petticoats); excellent excellentjams, among which which the known are are Chanceavx Chanceaux raisini, raisiné, confiture confiture d'ipined'epinethe best best known vinCtte: and Flavigny Flavigny aniseed aniseed sweets. sweets. vinelle; and To To conclude conclude the the list list of of local local produce produce are are the the esteemed esteemed cassis and prunelle, cassis liqueurs liqueurs made made at at Dijon; Dijon; and prunelle, made made at at Flavigny. Flavigny. Wines Wines -- The The quality quality and and variety varicty of of Burgundy Burgundy wines wines assure assure them them aa leading leading place place not not only only in in France France but but in in the the world. world. Viticultural Viticultural Burgundy Burgundy goes goes beyond beyond the the frontiers frontiers of of historic historie Burgundy. Burgundy. It It extends extends across across fo:ur four dipartements: départements: Yonne, Côte-d'Or, Sa6ne-et-Loire Saône-et-Loire and and Rhdne, Rhône, embracing embracing Yonne, C6te-d'Or, the the great great regions regions of of Chablis, Chablis, Cdte Côte de de Nuits, Nuits, C6te Côte de de Beaune, Beaune, Cdte chalonnaise, Côte chalonnaise, MAconnais, Mâconnais, Beaujolais. Beaujolais. Each Each of of these these regions regions comprises comprises several several appellations, appel/ations, some some communes. communes, some sorne vineyards, vineyards, besides besides regional regional or'generic' or 'generic' appellations appellations (see (see accompanying accompanying table). table). Chablis. The little town of Chablis Chablis in in Yonne Yonne has has given given its its Chablis. The little town of name and name to to this this excellent excellent dry dry wine wine with with its its greeny-gold greeny-gold hue hue and delicate delicate bouquet. bouquet. It lt is is aa wine wine that tha! matures matures beautifully beautifully in in

Ycizdav c .s AvAr,Jnrf

io*r.

-

t tr

Buxv vo

E - ET - LO

AUT.I E R Red wines O Red .. Whire wines wines oO White D6partement -, Departement .'V'\ boundary "1n boundary : Railway Railway = Scale Scala --Y

'':\

10 20K o', 10 0 0 10

10

Map of the Map or the Burgundy Burgundy wine-growing wine-growing district di"trÎct

good good vintage vintage years. years. Connoisseurs enjoy drinking it it with oysters, shellfish. oysters, seafood, seafood, fish fish and shellfish. COte Nuits. This is the name Côte de de Nuils. name given to the northern northem part of of the the C6te-d'Or, Côte-d'Or, which which begins south south of of Dijon Dijon with with the the commune commune of of Fixin Fixin and ends south of Nuits-Saint-Georges. Nuits-Saint-Georges, The vineyards climb halfway halfway up up a line of of hills hills situated west west

of of the the autoroute autoroute Dijon-Mdcon. Dijon-Mâcon.

The The C6te Côte de de Nuits Nuits produces mostly mostly red red wines. wines, These strong, strong, full-bodied, full-bodied, glowing, glowing, fragrant fragrant wines wines enjoy enjoy an excellent reputation reputation and and accompany roast roast or or grilled grilled meat, meat, game game (even (even when when itit is is high), high), piquant piquant dishes dishes and cheeses cheeses to to perfection. perfection. Cbte de Beaune. Beaune. This This comes cornes immediately immediately after after the the COte Côte de de Côte de Nuits Nuits and and gets gets its its name name from from the the village village of of Beaune. Beaune. Cdte Côte de de Beaune ex tends from from Ladoix-Serrigny Ladoix-Serrigny in in the the north north to to Beaune extends Santenay, Santenay, on on the the borders borders of of the the ddpartemmr département of of Sa6ne-etSaône-etLoire Loire in in the the south. south. Apart Apart from from some sorne great great red red wines, wines, Cdte Côte de de Beaune Beaune produces produces some sorne very very fine fine dry dry white white wines, wines, the the most most famous famous being being Montrachet, Montrachet, with with its its delicious delicious fragrance fragrance of of fresh fresh almonds. almonds. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet often often equals equals it; it; the the Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet and and B0tarde-Montrachet Bâtarde-Montrachet have have better better lasting lasting qualities. qualities. The The powerful powerful Corton-Charlemagne, Corton-Charlemagne, the the fragrant, fragrant, full-bodied full-bodied Meursault Meursault are, are, like Iike all aIl the the wines wines of of this this region, region, wines wines to to serve serve with with fish fish and and shellfish; shellfish; they they also also make make fitting fitting companions corn panions to to the the richest richest of.sauces. of sauces. The The red red wines wines are are as as good good as as those those of of the the C6te Côte de de Nuits. Nuits. They They can can be be drunk drunk with with meat, meat, but but itil isis preferable preferable (apart (apan from from

t62 162

BURGUNDY BURG UND Y

(from contemporary The contemporary tapestries) tapestries) The manufacture Burgundy wines, wines, 1470 1470 (from manufacture of of Burgundy

whereas great wines come from from the the wines of the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or come whereas the the great of the black black Pinot. Pinot. The in the the Beaujolais begins begins in district of of Beaujolais The wine-growing wine-growing district département extends north and and extends in the the north dipartemenl of Sa6ne-et-Loire in of Saône-et-Loire southwards 'generic' appelappelLyons. The The 'generic' of Lyons. southwards to to the the environs environs of lations 'Beaujolais supérieur' 'Beaujolais', 'Beaujolais and sup6rieur' and are 'Beaujolais', lations are 'Beaujolais-Villages'; very 'Beaujolais-Villages'; they are the lightest varieties varieties and and very they are the lightest drinkable. drinkable. Nine rit aa special growths me each of of them them merit Nine growths special appellation, appellation, each (see accompanying with accompanying table). table). individual character character (see with its its own own individual It most Beaujolais, Beaujolais, which which noting that contrary to to most It isis worth worth noting that contrary must young, the and Moulin-àMoulin-dFleurie and the Morgon, Morgon, Fleurie must be be drunk drunk young, Vent year -- be good year laid down. be laid down. Vent can can -- in in aa good

Corton keep them for less less rich rich dishes dishes than than to keep them for Corton or or Pommard) to those that Côte wines usually accompany. C6te de de Nuits wines usually accompany. Côte line of the line of the of This isis the continuation of the continuation Cbte chalonnaise. This sun-drenched Dijon. The The of Dijon. south of hill slopes that begin begin south sun-drenched hill slopes that red famous are worthy worthy of of their their famous Rully, are red Mercurey, Mercurey, the white Rully, the white brothers of (There isis also white Mercurey Mercurey also aa white Cdte-d'Or. (There of the the Côte-d'Or. and (white) not forget Montagny (white) We must must not forget the the Montagny and aa red red Rully.) Rully.) We and . (both red red and and white). white). and the the Givry Givry (both Mâconnais. nder the Mdcon Mdcon, Mâcon the appellations appellations Mâcon, Mdconnais. U Under supérieur (white only) find red, red, only) we we find and Mâcon-Villages Mdcon-Villages (white sup6rieur and rosé good vinified, make make good when weil well vinified, which, when and white white wines wines which, ros6 and carafe carafe wines. wines. Aiso dry Mdconnais wines wines there there isis aa superb superb dry among the Also among the Mâconnais wh(te Pouilly-Fuiss6 which, which, white wine wine known world: Pouilly-Fuissé known ail all over over the the world: gastronomically gastronomically speaking, with Chablis interchangeable with Chablis speaking, isis interchangeable wines Two communal communal Beaune. Two C6te de de Beaune. wines or or those of the the Côte those of appellations, are inin and Pouilly-Loché Pouilly-Loch6 are appellations, Pouilly-Vinzelles Pouilly-Vinzelles and the the same class. same class. Beaujolais. the Burguody Burgundy wines, wines, classerl among among the Beaujolais. Although Although classer.! Beaujolais personality. Its name with aa strong Its name Beaujolais isis aa wine wine with strong personality. evokes y wines, pleasant to are pleasant wines, the the kind kind that that are to light, fruit fruity evokes Iight, drink 'gulping' wines, young and fresh --'gulping' wines, the the and fresh drink when when they are young they are growers growers call the Gamay Gamay kingdom, kingdom, belongs to to the call them. them. ItIt belongs

LIST CONTROTENS LIST OF OF APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CONTRÔLÉES OF y BURGUNDY OF BURGUND White (R) wines (W) and red (R) wines and red White (W) Appellations rig ionale s Appe llat ions régionales Bourgogne. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Bourgogne Bourgogne ros6...................... Bourgogne clairet clairet ou ou rosé Bourgogne Bourgogne aligoté aligot6............................ Bourgogne passe-tout-grain . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ....... . . . . .. Bourgognepasse-tout-grain.. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. Bourgogne grand ordinaire. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. 163 163

W, W, RR RR W W RR W, W, RR

BUSH BUSH Rigion de deChablis Chablis Région grand cru. Chablis grand cru .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis premier cru Chablis premier cru . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Chablis Chablis Chablis...................... . ........... Perit Chablis chablis ... Petit . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . ..

SampignyJbs-Maranges ......... .. . .. . ... . .. Sampigny-lès-Maranges . Saint-Romain ............................... ... Saint-Romain . Bourgogne-Hautes Côtes C6tesdeBeaune ....... Bourgogne-Hautes de Beaune

w W w W w W w W

Great wines wines of of Côte Cbte de de Beaune Beaune GreaI Corton..................................... . Corton Corton-Charlemagne Corton-Charlemagne ...................... . Bdtard-Montrachet Bâtard-Montrachet ......... . Bienvenue-Bdtard-Montrachet Bienvenue-Bâtard-Montrachet ................. . Criots-Bdtard-Montrachet... Criots-Bâtard-Montrachet ............. . ....... Chevalier-Montrachet Chevalier-Montrachet . . . . ........ . . . . .. Montrachet. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. Montrachet.

C6te de deNuilS Nuits Côte

Chambolle-Musigny .......................... . Chambolle-Musigny Fixin. Fixin.............. . ......... . Gevrey-Chambertin ..................... . Gevrey-Chambertin Morey-Saint-Denis Morey-Saint-Denis ........................... . Nuits-Saint-Georges . . . . . . . . . . . . Nuits-Saint-Georges. . ....... . Vougeot .......................... . Vougeot Vosne-Roman6e ............................. . Vosne-Romanée . C6te de de Nuits-Villages Nuits-Villages .................... ... Côte . Bourgogne-MarsannayJa-Cdte .. . Bourgogne-Marsannay-Ia-Côte Bourgogne-Vins fins fins des des Hautes Hautes Côtes Cdtes de Nuits..... de Nuits ... Bourgogne-Vins

R R R R RR

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R R R R R R R R R

Beaujolais Beaujolais Beaujolais. ........... . Beaujolais.. Beaujolais sup6rieur Bea ujolais su périeur . Beaujolais-Villages Beaujolais-Villages ........................... . Brouilly. . . .. .... Brouilly. . . ...................... Ch6nas Chénas ... . . ........ . Chiroubles Chiroubles. ... . ........................ . C6tes de Brouilly . . . . . . . .. . ............. . de Brouilly. Côtes Fleurie. . . . . . Fleurie. . .......... . Juli6nas Juliénas ........................... .

Great wines wines of of Côte COte de de Nuits Nuits GreaI

Bonnes Mares Mares ............................... . Bonnes Chambertin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . Chambertin. . ....... . Chambertin-Clos de Bèze. Bbze. . Cham bertin-Clos de Chapelle-Chambertin ......................... . Chapelle-Chambertin Charmes or or Mazoyéres-Chambertin Mazoyeres-Chambertin ............ . Charmes Clos de de la la Roche Roche ..... Clos Clos Saint-Denis. Saint-Denis ... . . . . . . . . . . Clos . ............ . Clos de de Tart Tart................................. . Clos . Clos de de Vougeot Vougeot ............................. . Clos Ech6zeaux .................................. . Echézeaux Grands-Ech€zeaax ........................... . Grands-Echézeaux Griottes-Chambertin ......................... . Griottes-Chambertin La Tâche Tdche ................................... . La Latricibres -Chambertin .............. . Latricières-Chambertin Mazis-Chambertin ........................... . Mazis-Chambertin Musigny .................................... . Musigny Richebourg Richebourg ................................. . La ... Romanée.. ..... . ........... . La Roman6e Roman6e-Conti. . Romanée-Conti ............. . Roman6e-Saint-Vivant Romanée-Saint-Vivant ........................ . Ruchottes-Chambertin Ruchottes-Chambertin. . ................. . COte chalonnaise Côte cha/onnaise

Givry. Givry...........

. ............ Mercurey Mercurey ................................... Montagny. Montagny ................................... Rully. Rully.......... . ...................

...

..

..

RR

W. R W,R W W W W W W W W W W W W W,R W. R W, R W,R R R R R R R

R R R R R R R R R R R R

Mdconnais Mâconnais

M6con.. Mâcon Mdcon supérieur. sup6rieur Mâcon . . . . . . . . . . ......... . Micon-Villages. Mâcon-Villages .............................. . Pouilly-Fuiss6 .............................. .. Pouilly-Fuissé . Pouilly-Vinzelles ............................ . Pouilly-Vinzelles . Pouilly-Loche ... Pouilly-Loché ................... .

W. R W,R W, n W,R W W W W W W

R R

(In Il). (rNr) BUSH a). BUrssoN BlJSH (ln BU1SS'ON (EN)

R R R R R R R R

lobsters buisson, spiny lobsters en buissor. Smelts Smelts and en buisson, spiny lobslers en buisson. lobs/ers en other other small fish are also frid [ried and arranged 'in a a bush'.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w W w,R W,R

.

w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R w,R W,R

COte Côte de de Beaune Beaune

Morgon.......................... . Morgon Moulin-i-Vent.... . Moulin-à-Vent Saint-Amour . ... Saint-Amour

w,R W,R

. . . .

Aloxe-Corton.. Aloxe-Corton. . .. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ...

Auxey-Duresses. Auxey-Duresses. . ................... . Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . .... . Blagny. Blagny... . ............... . Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-Montrachet ........................ Chorey-lbs-Beaune Chorey-lès-Beaune ................ . C6tes Côtes de de Beaune Beaune. . . . . . . ........... Cdtes . Côtes de de Beaune-Villages. Beaune-Villages ...................... Ladoix Ladoix ................................... . Meursault Meursault. . . . . . ........... Month€lie Monthélie............ . ................ Pernand-Vergelesses Pernand-Vergelesses ...................... . Pommard Pommard ................................. Puligny-Montrachet Puligny-Montrachet .............. . Saint-Aubin Saint-A ubin . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . . .. . ............ Santenay Santenay. . . . . . . . . . . .. . ........ . Savigny-lbs-Beaune Savigny-lès-Beaune ........................... Volnay Volnay ..................................... CheillyJbs-Maranges Cheilly-lès-Maranges .... . Dezize-lbs-Maranges Dezize-lès-Maranges ..........................

R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R R

RR

W, R W,R

arranging various -- Method of arranging ingredients, shellfish: crayfish m buisson, Ingredients, particularly particularly shellfish' crayfish en

BUSTARD. BUSTARD. ourARDE 'OUTARDE - Genus Genus of of bird of of the family Otidiae, Olidiae, found and temperate regions of the Old World. found in in both both hot hot and temperateregionsoftheOld World. The great greal bustardis bus/ardis the the largest largest land bird bird in Europe, where where itil comes cornes in in December Decem ber and and stays stays until until March. March.1Itt is is known known for for the the delicacy of of its its flesh. flesh. The The little /iule bustardis buslard is more more highly highly prized. It 1t comes cornes to to Beauce and and Berry Berry in in April, April, but but is is non-migrant non-migrant in Spain, Spain, Italy, Ital y, Greece and and Sardinia. The The special special feather feather structure structure on on the the head head of of the the great great bustard bustard male male is is absent from from the the head head of of the the little little bustard bus tard male. male. The The principal principal method method of of cooking cooking bustard bustard is is roasting. roasting. All Ali the indicated for for the the preparation preparation of of the the domestic domestic the recipes recipes indicated goose goose and the the Nantes Nantes duckling duckling can can be be applied applied to to bustard. bustard.

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S BROOM. BROOM. Penr-Eoux PETIT-HOUX --. Shrub with with bitter bitter roots, raots, which which is is one one of of the the five five roots roots used used for for aperitifs. aperitifs. Its Ils

R R

w,R W,R

. . R R w,R W,R W,R . W,R . w,R W,R w,R W,R . R R w,R W,R W,R . w,R w,R W,R W,R . w,R . R R w,R W,R W . w

young young shoots shoots are are edible edible and and are are prepared prepared like like asparagus. asparagus.

BUTCHER'S BlJTCHER'S SHOP. SHOP. BoucHERq BOUCHERn; -- Shop Shop for for the the retail retail sale sale of of meat meat for for human human consumption. consumption. The The meat meat trade trade has has aa long long history. history. The The Jewish Jewish High High Priest Priest in in Biblical Biblical times, times, performin! performing the the sacrificial sacrificial offering, offering, was was the the real real precursor precursor ofthe of the butcher. butcher. In ln Egypt, Egypt, aa fire tire was was lit lit in in front front of of the the altar altar where where aa sacrifice sacrifice was was to ta be be made, made, wine wine was was offered offered and and aIl god god invoked. invoked. The The throat throat of of the the animal animal was was slit, slit, the the head head severed severed and and the the carcase carcase skinned. skinned. The The head head was was taken taken to to market; market; itit was was sold sa Id to to aa Greek Greek ififone one could cou Id be be found, found, ififnot, not, the the head head was was thrown thrown into into the the river. river. The The Romans Romans made made similar similar sacrifices, sacrifices, but but created created aa special special body body of ofmen men to to carry carry out out the the actual actual butchery butcheryof the animals, animais, of the 164 164

BUTCHER'S BUTCHER'S SHOP SHOP

animals(l'Encyclopidie) of animai included lhe the slaughtering of which Butcher's shop shop until untJl end ofseventeenth of seventeenth century wll içh induded s (l 'Encyclopédie) Butcher's

long, kept for for too too long, fresh or or kept not too too fresh right time, time, not it at at the the right sell it sell in summer l| days days in summer -- itit and It in win winter days in than 22 days i.e., more than ter and i.e., human for human unfit for meat became became unfit the meat that the reckoned that being reckoned being these periods after these consumption after consumption Periods.. method of of hand, aa method by hand, out by measured out meat measured The sale sale of of meat The and arguments, and continual arguments, caused continuai estimation, caused approximate estimation, approximate the which offered offered the of scales, scales, which system of replaced by by the the system was replaced was penalties ininand penalties confiscations and Fines, confiscations greatest fairness. fairness. Fines, greatest lawthe lawon the inflicted on rights were were inflicted civil rights loss of of civil volving the the loss volving that provost of to see see that of Paris Paris to the provost of the was the duty It was the dut breakers. It y of breakers. carried out. out. were carried statutes were these statutes these of the end endof until the maintained until were maintained regulations were The royal royal regulations The away in doing doing away succeeded in Napoleon succeeded monarchy. absolute monarchy absolute . Napoleon the created the and created houses, and privately owned slaughter houses, owned slaughter with privately with forced to to were forced as butchers butchers were As soon soon as public slaughter house. As slaughter house. public industry developed developed:: the industry of the branches of there, two two branches animals there, take animals take first covered covered The first retail trade, trade.The and the the retail trade and wholesale trade the wholesale the house, the slaughter slaughter house, purchase of transport toto the of livestock, livestock, transport the purchase the of consisted of room. The The second second consisted the scalding scalding room. the work work of of the and the and consumer. meat to to the the consumer. of meat carcases of retailing the the carcases retailing century, nineteenth century, the nineteenth created inin the were created markets were Cattle markets Cattle for the the Passy for and Passy Pontoise and Sceaux, Pontoise those atat Sceaux, among them them those among butchers from which which butchers up from also set set up was also fund was area. AA fund Paris area. Paris purchases, with withaa for purchases, money for necessary money the necessary could obtain obtain the could be proviso that loan be theloan that the percent interest, and andaaproviso cent interest, charge of of 55per charge of oneof retainedone Thus the butchersretained the butchers repaid within within aafortnight. fortnight. Thus repaid pressdaims claims notpress could not creditorscould privileges. Their Theircreditors theirancient ancient privileges. their the meatininthe themeat norseize seize the day, nor market clay, of,or oron, on, market on the the eve eveof, on town's thetown's safeguard the wereessential essentialtotosafeguard These conditions conditions were shop. These shop. meat supplies. supplies. meat free, becamefree, meattrade tradebecame themeat centurythe nineteenthcentury thenineteenth Duringthe During was periodduring which itit was during which transition period was aa transition but there there was but prove that thatanan francstotoprove payaafee 3,000francs feeof of3,000 necessarytoto pay necessary possessed the the onepossessed andthat thatone servedand had been beenserved aapprenticeship pprenticeship had presentaacertificate certificate meat,totopresent retailmeat, knowledge totoretail necessary knowledge necessary nottoto undertakenot andtotoundertake goodconduct andcharacter, character, and conductand of ofgood prefecture three givingthe three theprefecture withoutgiving leave the the business business without leave months' notice, months'notice. 500 wgreonly only500 therewçre centurytbere thecentury middleofofthe Towardsthe themiddle Towards laiddown downthe the regulations laid left.Police Policeregulations shopsleft. retail retailbutcher butchershops tiled, hadtotobebetiJed, theyhad shops;they running ofofshops; relatingtotothe therunning details detailsrelating couldset set positioned.No Nobutcher butchercould wellpositioned. andwell weil wellventilated ventilatedand

for the giving these these men men special special privileges to to compensate compensate for occupation was held in contempt by the higher fact that their occupation an was an classes. Under Under Nero, Nero, the the Roman Roman butcher's shop was butcher's shop classes. imposing establishment, they established established aa guild, and they imposing establishment, and which was subject to official reguJations. regulations. Butchers specialissuarii. called suarii, and selling of pigs were called ing in the buying and In France, guild had by the had been been established by France, aa butchers' butchers'guild In eighth century; apprenticeman had to serve aa three years' appreni.icecentury; aa man ship further three for aa further meat for cut and and sell sell meat dress, cut and buy, buy, dress, ship and and buy buy an an years before ter butcher and master he could become aa mas before he official diploma; both great deal money. deal of of money. privileges cost aa great both privileges The ter butchers, and master butchers, and master of of mas guild was by aa master directed by The guild was directed not became powerful, arrogating to themselves themselves not arrogating to became extremely extremely powerful, pork and only and mutton, pork veal, mutton, beef, veal, selling beef, monopoly of of selling only the the monopoly sucking-pig, fish.. and river river fish also sea sea and sucking-pig, but also

guild Arms Arms of of the the butchers' butchers' guild

Charles privileges, and and their their their privileges, revoked sorne some of of their Charles VI VI revoked power they century they the sixteenth sixteenth century power declined time, but but inin the declined for for aa time, es men, and were weresubject subjecttoto andwere of trad tradesmen, raised to the status statusof were raised to the statutes, them forbade them which forbade were ordinances ordinanceswhich which were among which statutes, among to afteraa openafter keep open authority; keep without authority; new stalls stalls without to open open new certain during orduring abstinence or meat on daysof ofabstinence on days certain time; time; exhibit exhibit meat Lent , and for the the andthat thatonly only for ten, stall out out of often onestail Lent inin more more than thanone sick ; sohcit slaughter customers; slaughter abuse customers; solicit custom custom oror abuse sick; animais cooked sellcooked authorities;sell theauthorities; informing the without informing animals without meat ; or a butcher. butcher. thatofofa butthat pursueany anyother other trade trade but meat; orpursue They animals healthyanimais from healthy meatfrom sellmeat They were were expected expected totosell which from notdied diedfrom hadnot andhad properly slaughtered slaughtered and hadbeen beenproperly which had disease andtoto wayand prepareititininaac1ean cleanway diseaseor orsuffocation, suffocation, toto prepare

165 l6s

BUTTER up business before the police commissioner of his area had up business before the police commissioner of his area had visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher visited his premises and given his approval. Any butcher who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop who displayed meat outside his premises was fined. A shop that did not display meat for three consecutive davs was that did not display meat for three consecutive days was closed for six months. closed for six months.

kitchensofoflarge largecatering catering establishments establishmentswhich whichbuy buycomcomkitchens pletecarcases carcases or orlarge largecuts cutswholesale, wholesale, orordirect directfrom fromthe the plete slaughterhou house, fortheir theirown owncooks cookstotocarve carveand prepare. andprepare. slaughter se, for Butchers'shops shopsalso also have havescales scales which which must mustbe bekept keptvery very Butchers' clean, marble marble tables tablesand andceramic ceramicplates plates totodisplay displaythe themeaL meai. clean, Modern rules rulesof ofhygiene hygienebeing protectfood beingmade madetotoprotect foodfrom from Modern dust, many many butchers' butchers' shops provided with shopsare areprovided withdisplay display dust, counters enclosed enclosed with glass,and withglass, and often often with with means meansof of counters refrigeration.Uncut Uncutcarcases carcasesare arehung hungfrom from rails rails on on hooks, hooks, refrigeration. andenclosed enclosed inin aa refrigerated refrigerated chamber chamber or or inin aa large large and refrigerator. The The walls walls and and Boors floors of of aa butcher's butcher's shop shop are are refrigerator. usually tiled, tiled, and and kept kept scrupulously scrupulously clean. clean. Employees Employeei are are usually dressed in in light-coloured light-coloureci clothes clothes and and wear wearwhite white aprons. aprons. dressed

BUTTER. BEURRE BEURRE -- Fatty Fatty substances substances extracted extracted from from the the BUTTER. milk of mammals, known of mammals, known and and used used as as food food by by man. man. The The milk

origin of goes back of butter butter goes back to to the the early early nomadic nomadic people people who who origin used the the milk milk of goats, cows, of goats, cows, ewes, ewes, mares, mares, she-asses she-asses and and used prepare it. she-camels t~ to prepare it. she-camels The Aryans Aryans brought brought butter butter to to the the inhabitants inhabitants of India, of India, The who soon soon considered considered itit aa sacred sacred food. food. who The Hebrews Hebrews used used butter butter as as aa medicine medicine as as weil well as as aa food. food. The Abraham offered offered butter, butter, aa symbolic symbolic food, food, to to three three men men who who Abraham came to to his his tent tent in in the plains of the plains of Mamre. Mamre. In In his proverbs his proverbs came Solomon says: 'Surely, the says: 'Surely, the churning churning of milk bringeth of milk bringeth forth forth Solomon butter ... . . .'. butter '. The Scythians Scythians also also had had butter, butter, and and brought brought itit to to the the The Greeks, and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the civilised civilised world. world. Greeks, People living living in in sorne some southern southern countries, countries, like like the the Romans, Romans, People used oil oil much much more more than than butter butter in in their their cooking. cooking. This usee! preference still persists in still persists in certain certain parts parts of of the the south south of preference of France, mainly mainly in in Provence, Provence, where where oil plays aa principal oil plays France, part in in ail all the the dishes. dishes. part

Butcher's tools ( Nicolas\ Butcher"s 100is (Nicolas)

Since 1863 the number of shops has considerably inSince 1863 the number of shops has considerably increased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but creased. They are still controlled by police regulations, but the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed the butchers' guild no longer has the prerogatives it enjoyed under the old r6gime. The. work of slaughtering animals is under the old régime. The. work of slaughtering animais is now carried out in recognised slaughter except in in aa now carried out in recognised slaughter houses, houses, except very few localities where the butcher does the slauglitering very few localities where the butcher does the slaughtering himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparition oi himself. The bulk of a butcher's work is the preparation of cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and cuts of meat for cooking, and the butcher often stuffs and dresses the joints himself. dresses the joints himself.

Butcher's cold room (/{icolas) Butcher's colù room (Nicolas)

Old making butter Oldway wayofofmaking butter

The preparatory

work is The prepara tory work iscarried carried out outon onaachopping choppingblock: bl ock : a section of a tree trunk, usually a section of a tree trunk, usually elm, elm, mounted mounted on on three three legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained legs. The slab, also used as a bench, has a cross-grained wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large wooden working surface with fittings for tools, and large

Preparation Preparation of of butter butter -- In In their their emulsive emulsive state, state, the the fattv fatty globules globulesofofmilk milk are are relatively relativelystable, stable, but butwhen when the the liquid liquid isis left left to to stand, stand, they they rise rise to to the the surface surface inin the the form form of ofcrea-. cream. Cream Creamisisgenerally generallyobtained obtainedby bythe thecentrifugation centrifugationofofmilk milkinin separators. separa tors. Once Onceagitated agitated(in (inwhat whatconstitutes constitutesthe thechurning churning operation) operation) the the fatty fatty globules globules agglutinate agglutinate into into aa compaci compact mass masscalled calledbutter. butter.

drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of drawers. The tools include choppers, saws and knives of various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden various sizes; the latter are sometimes placed in a wooden case, called a boutique. These tools are often seen in the case, called a boutique, These tools are often seen in the 166 166

BUTTER BUTTER water). water). ItIt should should have have aa slightly slightly aromatic aromatic smell smell and and aa sweet, sweet, pleasant pleasant flavour. flav6ur. When When placed placed on on the the tongue tongue itit should should melt melt without without leaving leaving any any deposit. deposit. year it The The colour colom varies varies according according to to the the time time of of year it was was produced produced and and the the type type of of animal animal feeding feeding chosen chosen by by the the farmers. farmers. It It can can be be almost almost white. white. The The content content of of substances substances other other than than fat fat (milk (milk constituents constituents remaining remaining in in the the butter butter after after churning churning and and washing) washing) must must not not exceed exceed 18 18 per per cent, cent, of of which which l6 16 per per cent cent should should be be water. water. energy food Butter Butter is is aa valuable valuableenergy food (750 (750 calories calories per per 100 100 g., g., 44 oz.).It oz.). It contains contains aa large large amount amount of of Vitamin Vitamin A A (the (the vitamin vitamin (the anti-rachitic D that that promotes promotes growth) growth) and and Vitamin Vitamin D (the anti-rachitic vitamin), vitamin), but but the the quantities quantities of of these these vary vary according according to to the the quality quality of of the the butter, butter, animal animal feeding feeding methods, methods, and and the the season. season. Unadulterated, Unadulterated, itit isis the the most most digestible digestible of of the the animal animal raw. fats. fats, provided provided that that it it is is eaten eaten raw. Adulteration AduIteration of of butter butter -- Like Like many many other other quality quality foods, foods, to fraudulent butter butter used used to to lend lend itself itselfto fraudulent falsification. falsification. Now Now that that industrial indus trial manufacture manufacture (subject (subject to to strict strict controls) controls) has has insufficient is danger replaced replaced farm farrn production, production, the the only only danger is insufficient working working of of the the butter butter mass, mass, leaving leaving aa residue residue of of buttermilk butterrnilk and and water water in in excess excess of of 18 18 per per cent; cent; or, or, in in the the case case of of farm farm butters, butters, the the addition addition of of preservatives, preservatives, such such as as boric boric acid. acid. The The a temperature, high prolonged at too effects effects of of prolonged storage storage at too high a temperature, possibly possibly near near other other foodstuffs, foodstuffs, is is also also aa factor factor that that cannot cannot be be may, at ignored. ignored. Finally, Finally, cattle-food cattle-food may, at certain certain periods periods of of the the year, year, produce produce peculiar peculiar odours odours and and taste; tas te; these, these, however, however, can can be be eliminated eliminated by by industrial industrial processes. processes. The most The most frequent frequent type type of of adulteration adulteration is is that that which which gives gives greasy, rancid or poisonous rise rancid or poisonous taste, tas te, the the consequences consequences rise to to aa greasy, (more frequently) careless productiori, of careless of productiort, or or (more frequently) prolonged prolonged choosing aa can be These drawbacks drawbacks can storage. These storage. be eliminated eliminated by by choosing good brand and aa good reliable retailer reliable retailer and brand of of butter. butter. of There are are various of butter Preservation of Preservation butter -- There various methods methods of salting common being preserving two of of the butter, two preserving butter, the most most common being salting and amalgamation. amalgamation. and quantity offine into salt into of fine salt working aa quantity by working is done done by butter is Salted butter SalLed per (3 to to 55 per butters (3 demi'sel butters There are are two two types: types r demi-sel butter. There the butter. the or Demi-sel or (8 to per cent cent salt). salt\. Demi-sel l0 per to 10 butters (8 and salted salted butters cent salt) salt) and cent for cooking. cooking. most suitable suitable for are the the most salted are salted in aa amalgamation in effected by butter isis effected Amalgamated butter AmalgamaLed by amalgamation The second second heat. The processed over intense heat. over intense or processed bain-marie, or bain-marie, qualities, keeping qualities, gives aa product product that has superior superior keeping that has method gives method flavour. process to the the flavour. detrimental to is detrimental but the the pro but cess is purposes; the the cooking purposes; for cooking clarified for frequently c1arified Butter isis frequently Butter in contained in precipitating the the casein casein contained water isis evaporated, evaporated, precipitating water

Modern Modern butter bUlter factory factory (Rayor) (Rayol)

This mass in the churn chum exudes a quantity quantity of of watery watery liquid liquid called buttermilk, buttermilk, which is drawn off. The The remaining remaining solid solid is rinsed rinsed in pure water while still in in the churn, churn, then then worked worked until aa homogenous butter is obtained. obtained. fresh from The cream may be be churned fresh from the cow, cow, but but the quality and and yield of of the quality the butter are are definitely definitely improved improved by by of maturaDuring this period allowing the cream to mature. During period of maturaof under the sour under slightly som turns slightly tion the cream cream turns tion the the influence influence of of maturing farm production ferments. This This farrn lactic lactic ferments. production method of maturing manuis still observed in the industrial the cream before use is indus trial manupreis prematuration is latter case, case, maturation in the latter but, in facture of butter but, facture which ensures ensures ceded by heat treatment called pasteurisation, ceded pasteurisation, which Very high high and and conpossible microbes. of possible the destruction destruction of the microbes. Very yeasts sowing yeasts quality isis obtained subsequently sowing obtained by sistent quality sistent by subsequently in the butter. the butter. and flavouring flavouring elements in containing acidifying and containing

lightly can be be lightly food can butter, food clarified butter, using c1arified By using the butter. butter. By the and, the the butter butter overbrowning and, without overbrowning fried or saut6ed without or sautéed fried and causing spitting spitting and without causing dehydrated, without having been been dehydrated, having fat. of fat. splutterings of splutterings CLARIFICATION. butter -- See See CLARIFICATION. of butter Clarification of Clarification These must must vfc6rnux-- These neunnss VÉGÉTAUX VEGETABLE BUTTERS. BEURRES VEGET ABLE BUTTERS. labelled be labelled but should should be butter, but name of of butter, not be the name be sold sold under under the not given aa trade name. 'vegetable fat' trade name. fat'or 'vegetable or given consistency to to give aa solid semi-solid consistency possible solid or or semi-solid to give ItIt isis possi ble to of hydrogenation of the hydrogenation For example, example, the vegetable oils. oils. For certain vegetable certain produces aa as aa catalyst, catalyst, produces mousse as nickel mousse oil, using using nickel cottonseed oil, cottonseed American of American imitation of in imitation lard -- in or lard butter or kind of artificial butter of artificiaJ kind lard. lard. Fatty substance substance DE CACAO cACAo -- Fatty BEURRE DE butter. BEURRE Cocoa butter. Cocoa in the form of of sold in the forrn roasted cocoa cocoa beans. beans. ItIt isis sold from roasted obtained from obtained like pleasant taste, taste, like and pleasant sweet and with aa sweet blocks, with rectangular blocks, rectangular 30'C. between 30°e. at aa temperature temperature between melts at chocolate. ItIt melts that of of chocolate. that at aa cooling at (91"F.) and liquid by by cooling (86"F.) and and stays stays liquid 33"C. (91'F.) and 33"e. (86)F.) (73' F.). F. ). at 23' C. (73 lower temperature, solidifying at temperature, solidifying lower

packets of butter Blocks and and packels of buller Blocks (Rayot. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) (Rayol.

packed machine packed butter isis usually usually machine retail distribution. distribution, butter For retail For has to to be be regulations, itit has satisty trade trade regulations, in blocks blocks and and to to satisl'y in paper or greaseproof paper or protected from by greaseproof contamination by from contamination protected packed in in waxed waxed are often often packed and demi-sel demi-sel butters butters are Salted and tinfoil. Salted tinfoil. cardboard cartons. cartons. cardboard good butter have aa semi-soft semi-soft should have butter should butter -- AA good of butter Quality Quality of 'sweat' not toto 'sweat' and ought ought not room temperature temperature and consistency atat room consistency proportion of of (an indication high aa proportion contains too too high indication that that itit contains (an

ne.

J

brands, isis several brands, are several product, of which there there are of which This product, This and isis no water water and contains well. ItIt con very weil. and keeps keeps very sterilised and sterilised tains no

t67 167

tsUTTER BUTTER easily digestible, digestible, perhaps more so than ordinary butter. butter. Its Its taste is neutral neutral and can in no way be r,...,Mn.
blanched shallols. shallots. Add Add J150 oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter. butter. blanched 50 g.g.(5(5 oz, 10 tablespoons) Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Rub Uses. In In white white sauces garnish for sauces and and as as aa garnish for cold cold horsftarsUses. d'euvre.It sometimes ca called beurre ravigote. ravigote. d·œuvre. Il isissometimes lied beurre Colbert butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE COLBERT coLBERT -- Prepare hepare Mat/re Maitre d'hôlel d'h6tel Colbert (see below), butter (see below). Add Add !I leaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped tarragon tarragon and and 1I huiler jelly for tablespoon dissolve(] dissolved meat meat jelly (4 oz" for 100 100 g.g. (4 oz., -1* cup) cup) lablespoon butter. butter. Uses. Accompaniment Accompaniment for for frie
(1) Butters COMPOUND BUTTERS. BUTTERS. BEURRES srunnEs COMPOSts coMposfu -- (1) Butters COMPOUND mixed with with one generally reduced one or or more more substances, substances, generally reduced to to aa mixe
d euvre. d'œuvre. Almond butter. butter. BEU~RE (3 oz., BEURRE D'AMANDES D'AMANDEs -- Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz., Almooo cup) sweet sweet blanched and washed washed almonds paste, blanched and almonds to to aa fine paste, ~3 cup) adding aa few few drops drops of water to prevent them of cold cold watc( to prevent them tuming turning adding (5 oz" g. (5 oily. Add Add 150 150 g. oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter. Rub through butter. Rub through 10 tablespoons) sieve. aa fine Sleve. garnish for Uses. As for cold cold hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, and and as as an an addition addition Uses. As garnÎsh to soups soupe and and sorne some white white sauces. sauces. 10 Anchory butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ANCHOIS D'.q,NcHors -- Desalt Desalt and g. and dry dry 75 75 g. Ancbovy (3 oz.) anchovy anchovy fillets and pound with (3 flllets and pound them lhem in in aa mortar mortar with 2N oz., scant scant cup) sieve. 200 g g Q oz., cup) butter. buller. Rub Rub through aa fine fine sieve. Uses. As for Gar/ic (see below). Anehovy Garlic butter Anchovy Uses. As indicated indicated for buller (see good aecompaniment butter accompaniment for gdlled fish butter is is also also aa good for grilled fish and and meat. meat. Bercy Bucy butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE BERcy BERCY - Add Add l] 11 tablespoons finely finely chopped pint, scant cup) chopped shallots shaHots to 10 2 2 dl. dl. (| (~ pint, seant cup) white wine wine and and boil by half. half. When When the the liquor liquor is i.s almost almosl cold, eold, add add boil down down by (7 g. 200 oz' 200 (7 oz., scant seant cup) softened softened butter butter and and 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) beef bone-marrotv which has has been been cut eut in in dice, diœ, poached in in salted salted water water and and drained. drained. Add Add 1! tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley parsley and and the the juice juiœ of of half half aa lemon. lemon. Season Season with with I1 teaspoon teaspoon fine fine salt sail and and aa pinch pineh offreshly of freshly gpound ground pepper. pepper. Uses. Uses. Accompaniment Aecompaniment for for grilled grilled fish fish and and meat. meaL Brown BroWl1 butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -- Cook Cook 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz.,l0 oz., 10 tabletablespoons) butter butter to to aa dark dark brown brown colour. col our. Add 22 tablespoons tabJespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) washed washed and and dried dried parsley parsley leaves leaves and and IJ tablespoon tablespoon capers. capers. Pour Pour the the butter butter into into aa sauceboat sauce boat or or over over the the food food with with which which itil !s !S to to be be served, served, and and add add aa tablespoon tab!espoon vinegar heated in the the same same pan. pan, heated in Uses. Brown Brown butter butter is is served served with with eggs; eggs; various various fish; fish; vegetables boiled in salted salted water; water; brains; brains; and and aa number number of of vegetables boiled in other other dishes. dishes. For For eggs eggs with with browned browned butter buller omit omit the the parsley parsley and and the the capers. Caviare butter. BETJRRE DE g. (3 butter. BEURRE DE cAvrAR CAYlAR -- Pound Pound 75 75 g. (3 oz) oz.) pressed caviare in a mortar. Add 150 g. (5 oz., l0 tablespoons) caviare În a mortar. Add 150 g. (5 oz., 10 lablespoons) butter, and weIL Rub Rub through Ihrough aa fine fine sieve. sieve. and blend b!end well. Uses. Uses. As As aa garnish garnish for for canapds dà la la russe rllsse and and for for various various cold hors-d'euvre, and for certain fish forcemeat. cold hors-d'œuvre, and for fish forcemeat. Chive Chive butter. butter. BETJRRE BEURRE DE DE crBoulErrr CIBOULETTE -_. Prepare Prepare and and use use as as Shallot Shallo/ butter buller (see (seebelow), below), using using green green chives. chÎves. Chivry Cb.lvry butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE cHrvRy CHIVR y -- Blanch Blanch 15 15 g. g. (* (t oz.) oz.) each each of of parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon and and chervil cherviJ leaves, leaves, fresh fresh burnet burnet and and chives for 3 minutes chives for 3 minutes inin salted sa!ted water. water. Drain, Drain, dip inin cold cold water, water. and and dry. dry. Pound Pound inin aa mortar mortarwith wi Ih 25 25 g.g. (l(1 oz.,* oz., cup) cup) chopped, chopped.

d'uuvre. d'œuvre. Gascogne GAscocxn -- Prepare with Gascogne butter. butter. BEURRE BEUR.RE DE DE GASCOGNE garlic, which wh.ich is is first cooked for aa few minutes minUles in salted water. water,

drained, pounded with with a a little little butter, and and seasoned. seasoned. Uses. Uses. For seasoning seasoning kidney kidney beans and for sprinkling over grilled grilled mushrooms. mushrooms. Green Green butter. BEURRE nEURRE VERT VERT -- Wash Wash and dry spinach spinach leaves leaves and and pound pound them them in a mortar. mortaL Put into a strong strong cloth, cio th, twist to to extract all ail the the juice; juiee; pour pour this this into into a double saucepan to to thicken. thicken. Turn out OuI onto onto aa muslin muslin cloth c10lh stretched stretched over over a bowl, and and filter. filler. Scrape off off the the green green residue residue which which remains on the the cloth; cloth; this this is IS called called vert vert d'ipinard d'epinard (spinach (spinach green). green). Add Add double of softened butter butter which which has has been been rubbed rubbed double its ils weight weight of through th.rough aa sieve. steve. Uses. Uses. As As for for Chivry Chivry butter buller and and Montpellier Mon/pellier butter buller (see (see below). below). Hazelnut Hazehml butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE NoTsETTE NOISETIE -- Prepare Prepare and and use use like like Almond Almond butter, butter, using using lightly lightly roasted roasted hazelnuts hazelnuls or or filbert filbert nuts. nUIS. Herring HcrrÎng butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DB HARENG HARENG -- Made Made of fillets fiUets of of pickled pickled herrings, herrings, as as Anchovy Anchovy butter bUller and and used used in in the the same same ways. ways. Horseradish Horseradish butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE RATFoRT RAIFORT -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar mortar 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., It cup) cup) grated grated horseradish. horseradish. Add Add 2ffi 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) butter. butter. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Uses. Uses. As As for for Garlic Gar/ic butter. bUller. Kneaded Kneaded butter. buUer. BEURRE BEURRE ru.lNd MAl'JrÉ -- Blend Blend 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 66 tablespoons) lablespoons) butter butter and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I! cup) cu p) flour ftour into in to aa smooth smooth paste. paste. Uses. Uses. To To bind bind some some sauces, sauces, notably notably those those called called rià /a la matelote. matelole.

Lemon Lemoo butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE crrRoN CrTRON -- Add Add finely grated rind rind

of of 11lemon lemon to to 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) butter. butter. Season with wllh salt salt and and white white pepper. pepper. Blend Blend well. well. 168 168

BUTTER BUTTER season season with wÎth salt and and pepper, peppeT, and and pound pound in in a mortar. mortar. Add Add 150 J 50 g. g. (5 o2.,10 OZ., JO tablespoons) tables po ons) fresh fresh butter, butter, blend blend and and rub rub through through a fine tîne sieve. sieve. Uses. Uses. Addition Addition to to white white sauce sauce and and garnish garnish for for cold cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Mustard Mustard butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE MoUTARDEMOüT AR DE - Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) mustard mustard to 10 200 g. g, (7 (7 oz., OZ., scant seant cup) cup) butter butter softened to to a paste. paste. Blend well. weiL Uses. The same as those those for Anchovy Anchovy butter. butter.

Uses. This This isis aa garnish garnish for for cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.

Lobster Lobsler butter butter (cold). (cold). BEURRE BEURRE DE DE HoMARD HOMARD (A (À rnon) FROID) -Using Using the the creamy ereaml' parts, parts, the the eggs and and the the coral of of the the lobster lobster cooked in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), proceed proceed as as described described in in recipe recipe cooked in for Shrimp Shrimp butter (cold) (see (see below). Use in in the the same same ways. ways. Lobster Lobstcr butter butter (hot). (Ilot). rnunnE DeuRRE D'HoMARD D'HOMARD· (A (À ctt.r'uo) Usrng Using shells and and trimmings of lobster, lobster, which which have have been cooked in in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) or or d il ln 10 mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.), cooked prepare asfor prepare and and use as for Crayfish Crayfish butter bWler (hot). This butter butter is is often called red red colouring butter, butter, which is prepared prepared by bl' pounding pounding together together in in a a mortar mortar the lhe coral, or eggs, of of various various shellfish which which have have been been cooked rn in coartcour/eggs, bouillon with an equal quantity quantitl' of butter. butter. Maltr€ Maitre d'hOtel d'hôlel butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE A À rn LA M,liTRE MAÎTRE D'HOIEL D'HÔTEL -- Mix 2N 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant seant cup) cup) fresh fresh butter with with l| I~ tablespoons small pinch chopped choppcd parsley, parsley, I:t teaspoon fine fine salt, salt, a a smaU pinch of freshly ground ground pepper pepper and aa dash dash of lemon juice. juice. Stir with a spoon until untiJ it forms a smooth paste. Uses. Accompaniment for grilled meat meal and fish, fish. fish fried in egg and breadcrumbs, and various boiled vegetables. vegetab!es. Melted maltre hbtel butter maître d d'hôtel buller may mal' be he served separately separalely or put on or under the ingredients which it accompanies. accompanies. Marchand Marchand de de vire "ins butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE MARcHAND MAN.CHAND DE DE vINs VINS g. (l cup) shallots to Add Add 25 25 g. (1 o2.,1 oz., cup) finely finely chopped shallots 10 3 dl. (| (! pint, pi n t. l| 1~ cups) red wine and boil slowly down to halfha If. Add a dissolved meat a tablespoon tablespoon dissolved meat jelly jeUl' or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (5 oz., tablestock, 150 g. (5 tables po ons) rich brown brov,Tl veal veal stock, OZ., l0 IOta bletablespoons) softened to a spoons) buller softened a paste, paste, I1 tablespoon chopped spoons) butter parsley, and the of quarter of a lemon. Season with salt the juice juice of and pepper, and and blend well. and weil. ri la marchand marchand steak à Uses. Accompaniment Accompaniment for grilled rump steak

Noisette butter. BEURRE BEURRE NoIsETTE NOISETTE - Cook butter butter to to aa light light hazelnut colom. hazelnut colour. Uses. Uses. Poured Poured over eggs, eggs, lambs' or 0( calves' brains, brains, skate skate cooked in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), soft soft roes, roes. and and vegetables vegetables cooked in cooked in water water and well drained. The juice juice of of a lemon Jemon is is squeezed into it it if if served separately. separately. Paprika butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE IAIRIKA PAPRIKA -- Blend Blel1d into into aa smooth paste pasle 200 g. (7 (7 oz., scant cup) butter, butler) seasoned seasoned with with I) tablelablespoon paprika. paprika. Uses. Uses, Garnish Garnish for canapis canapés and other cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d·œUI:re. Pistachio Pistacbio butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE plsrActtrs PISTACIfES - Prepard Prepared like like Almond butter, using blanched pistachio A lmond hUiler, piSlachio nuts. nuls. Uses. The same as as Almond Almond butter. a mortar Printanier Printanier butter. BEURRE BEURRE pRINTANIER PRlNTANIER -- Pound in a mortar an equal quantity ofbutter of butter and green green vegetables Vo;;;~;"''''U''Q (green peas, asparagus asparagus tips, French beans, beans, etc.) which have been cooked and dried. in water, wClter, drained drained and dried. Blend, and and rub through aa fine sieve. hors-d'euvre; addition Uses. Garnish for cold hors-d'œuvre; addition to thickened soups and sorne white sauces. and some for Chivry Chivry Ravigote butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE RAVIGoTE RAVIGOTE -- Name Name for butter. buller, given to I'obster butter Red butter. BEURRE BEURRE RoucE ROUGE·-- Name given Lobs/er hutter shellfish. and and butter mixed with other shellflsh. smoked sAUMoN -- Using fresh or smoked Salmon butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE SAUMON Anchovy buller. butter. the recipe for Anchovy salmon, proceed salmon, proceed as described in [he Use in the same ways. Prepared and and used used DE SARDli'..'ES sARDINEs -- Prepared Sardine butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE oil. llke Anchovy fillets of of sardines in oil. butter, using flllets Anchovy bUller, like drain o'Ecrulorn -- Shred, blanch, drain Shallot butter. BEURRE ShaLlot 6EURRE D'ÉCHALOTE pound them in aa morlar. mortar. Add the and pound them in and dry dry 88 shallots and and Add the rub through through aa fine and wb same weight of butter and fine sieve. same grilled meal meat and and fish. to grilled Uses. Accompaniment !O Uses. (A FROID) (cold). BEURRE rnoro) DE CREVETTES cREvErrEs (À BEURRE DE butter (cold). Shrimp butter Shrimp an (5 oz.) in aa mortar mortar with with an g. (5 150 g. cooked shrimps in oz.) eooked Pound 150 Pound fine sieve. Rub through aa fine amount of butter. butter. Rub equal amollnt equal garnish for ftorsfor cold cold horsand garnish fish sauces, sauces, and Uses. Addition Addition to to fish USd. cold fish. d'euvre and and cold d'œuvre (A CHAUD) (hot). BEURRE cru'uo) -DE CREVETTES cREvErrEs (À snuRRE DE butter (bot). Shrimp hutter prepare in way as as Crayjish Crayfish in the the same same way cooked shrimps, prepare Using cooked

de de vins. vins. Marseille BEURRE DE MARSEILLE -- Name ironically Marseille butter. BEUi
(hot). butter (hol). bUlfer (hot). for Crayfish butter (hot). as for The same Crayfish butler Uses. The same as Uses.

may he be case of of other other shellfish, shellfish, mal' as in in the the case Shrimp butter. butter, as is needed needed for for some flesh is if the the flesh made using only shells, if the shells, only the other dish. PouR BEURRE POUR bourguignonne. BEURRE la bourguignonne. Butter for for snails, snailg ài la Butter following Add the the following r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE soURGUIGNoNNE -- Add DscARGors, ÂA LA ESCARGOTS, (l+ g. (1 lb., 33 cups) cups) best best unsalted unsalted butter: ingredients to to 700 700 g. t lb., garlic eloI/es cloves chopped shallols, shallots, 22 garlic finely chopped cup) fineJy 75 g. oz., iI cup) Q oz., e. (3 (3 tabJespoons) chopped paste, 22 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped into paste, tdrblespoons (3 pounded into pepper. and -}] teaspoon parsley. Season teaspoon pepper. salt and 4 teaspoons salt Season with 4 parslel'. Blend weil. well. Blend bourguignonne. cookeddà la la bourguÎgnonne, escargot shells shells cooked Uses. For filling escargol Uses. This butter butter isis BEURRE DE DE LA1TANCES LAITANcns -- Thîs Soft roe roe butter. butter. BEURRE Soft quantities prepared bl' in aa morrar mortar equal quantilies by pounding together in prepared through aa roes ofpickled herrings and and butter, rubbed lhrough ofsoft of soft roes sieve. sieve. prepared bl' pounding in g. in aa mortar mortar 125 125 g. It can by poundîng can also also he be prepared H (especially those (4 Oz.) carp), roes of various fish fish (especÎally those or of carp), oz.) soft of various soft roes (4

169 169

BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS BUTTER BUTTERMILK. BABEURRE sassuRRE -- Milk Milk which which isis left left after after BUTIERMILK. churning butter. product di.ffers, butter. This This product differs, depending depending on on whether whether churning fresh or or sour sour milk milk isis being being churned, churned, and and on on wbether whether the the fresh cream isis taken taken off off by by centrifugaI centrifugal machillery. machinery. cream Buttermilk contains contains ail all the the casein casein of of milk. milk. This This casein, casein, Buttermilk following acidificatÎon, acidification, undergoes undergoes changes changes which which render render itit following more soluble soluble and and more more digestible. digestible. ItIt contains contains aJl all the the mineraI mineral more salts found found in in milk milk and proportion of and aa proportion lactose which of lactose which has has salts yet been not yet been transformed transformed into into lactic lactic acid. acid. not Buttermilk S
poached, cooled cooled and (7OZ., and weil well dried, dried, with with 200 200 g.E (7 cup) oz., scant scant cup) poached, butter. butter. Uses. ItIt isis added added to to sorne some fish fish sauces sauces and and used used as as aagarnish sarnish Uses. for cold cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre for Spiny lobster lobster butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -- Prepare, Prepare, using using SpÎny shells and and trimmings trimmings of of the (U.S. crayfIsh) the spiny spiny lobster lobster (U.S. crayfish) as as for for shells Lobster buller. butter. Use Use in in the the same same ways. ways. Lobsler porvRoNs DOl)}: pimento butter. Sweet pimento butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE POIVRONS Eorrx -- Pound Pound Sweet (5 oz.) finely in in aa mortar mortar 150 g. (5 150 g. pimentos (red (red or oz.) sweet sweet pimentos green) or green) finely previously stewed stewed În in butter. (7 OZ., butter. Add Add 200 200 g.g. (7 oz., seant scant cup) cup) previously butter and and rub rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. butter Uses. The The same same as as for for Carlit Garlic buller. butter. Uses. Tarragon botter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'ESTRAGON· D'EsrRAcoN - Blanch g. (4 (4 Blanch 125 125 g. TarragoD oz.) fresh fresh larragon tarragon leaves leaves for for 22 minutes minutes in in salted boiling salted boiling oz.) water. Orain, Drain, dip dip in in cold pound in cold waler, water, dry, dry, and and pound in aa lllortar mortar water. g. (7 (7 OZ., with 200 200 g. oz., seant cup) fresh fresh butter. scant cup) butter. Rub Rub through fine through aa fine with sieve. sieve. Uses. Addition Addition to to various various sauces, garnish for sauces, and and garnish for cold cold Uses. hors-deuvre, especially (see HORSespecially Canapé.~ Canapes àd la russe (see Ia russe HORShors-d'œuvre, D'(EUVRE, Cold Co ld hors-d'œuvre). hors- d' euvr e). D'ŒUVRE, Tomato butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE DI; DE TOMATES roMArEs -- Soften (7 OZ., g. (7 Soften 200 200 g. oz., Tomato cup) bulter, scant cup) butter, add add 22 dl. pint, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) concentrated concentrated Q pin seant t, seant juice, and tomato juice, and blend blend weil. well. tomato Uses. The The same same as as for for AnchO}:y Anchovy bUller. butter. It It isis also also used used for for Use.ç. thickening soups and white soups and white sauces. sauces. thîckening Trufre butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- Pound Pound in in aa morlar mortar Truffle (4 oz.) g. (4 l@ g. oz.) fresh fresh truffies (5 OZ., g. (5 truffies with with 150 150 g. oz-,10 tablespoons) 100 10 tablespoons) butter. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. butter. Garnish for Uses. Garnish for canapes canapis and and other other co cold hors-d uuvre. Uses. Id hOH-d'œul're. (tuna fish) Tunny (tuna fish) butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE DE THON THoN -- Prepare Prepare as as Tunny Anchovy butter, using tunny in in oil. oil. Anchovy buller, using IUnny Uses. The The same same as as for for Anchovy butter. Uses. Anchovy buller. Walnut DE NOIX NoD( -- Prepare as Almond WalDut butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE DE Prepare as A/mond butter, using dried, blanched walnuts. bUl/er, using dricd, blanched walnuts. Uses. The as for for Almond butter. Uses. The same sa me as Almond butter. White See PIKE. au beurre beurre White butter. butter. BEURRE BEURRE BLANc RLANC - See PIKE, Pike Pik.e au blanc. blanc.

BUTYRIC ACID. ACID. BUTYRIQUE BUryRreuE -- Acid Acid which which develops develops in in BUTYRIC butter by by oxidation, oxidation, and and which which causes causes it it to to become become rancid. butter BUTYROMETER. BUTYROMÈTRE suryRoMErns -- Instrument Instrument consisting consisting BUTYROMETER. glass tube of aa calibrated glass tube for for measuring the the butter butter content of of milk. ofmilk. The milk milk isis mixed with with aa certain volume volume of of ether ether which The dissolves the the butter. butter. Then Then an an equal equal volume volume of of alcohol alcohol is dissolves on the surrace form of an surface in the fonn an oily added. The butter floats on layer and its th.ickness, and its thickness, measured graduation of the by the the graduation layer measured by proportion of butter. tube, clearly shows the the proportion butter. tube. BUTYROUS. surynelx BUTYROUS. BUTYREUX of butter. butter. aappearance ppearance of

and and

BUVETTE This was the name given given to the small refreshrefreshBUVETTE - This ment existed under the Ancien ment bars bars that that existed under the Anciel/ Rigime Régime in in the judicial judicial high high courts. courts. They were necessary at a time when the judges and sat sat often judges assembled very very early early in in the the morning moming and until buyettes became until mid-day mid-day without without intermission. intennission. Later, Later, bU~'elles objects such as objects of of ridicule ridicule and and provoked provoked epigrams epigrams such as the following: following:

BUTTER BUTTER CREAMS CREAMS -- See See CREAMS. CREAMS.

BUTTER BUITER DISH. DISH.

BEURRTER BWR..RIER - Small Small dish dish used used for for serving serving butter butter on on the the table. table. Some Sorne butter butter dishes dishes are are made made in in such such a a way way that that the the butter butter is is always always kept kept under under salted salted water. water. Thus Thus enclosed, enclosed, the the butter butter can can be be kept kept fresh frcsh for for a a longer longer period. period. There There are are more more modern modern types types consisting consisting of of aa double-walled, double-walled, bell-shaped bell-shaped cover cover in in porous porous earthenware earthenware filled fiJled with with water, water, which which is is changed changed every every day. day. This This cover coyer is is placed placed over over the the

Themis Themis inspires inspires the magistrates in in the buvette buvette

With With the strictest equity; eqllity;

During During the hearing can be he observed observed Arrest Arrest after aftcr arrest by by Bacchus Bacchus served. The The Revolution Revolution put put an end to the buvettes bu velles along with with the judicial judicial high high courts; courts; but but they they reappeard reappeared with the legislative legislative

butter contained in buttercontained in aa glass glass dish. dish.

assemblies. assemblies.

LAIT LAIT

consistency Having the the consistency - Having

-

E(THER

Butyrometer Butyromeler

t70 170

i§

to close to little street street close to aa little given its name to its name has given butte Saint-Roch has the by the traversed by Posteries' traversed des Posteries, clos des the clos Royal;; the Palais Royal the Palais the

origin of CABARET -- There are are various opinions opinions on the origin of this CABARET

ranging from the ancient Hebrew Hebrew cabar cabal' (to assemble) term , ranging term, cave).. In In cabare (to dig or make make a cave) to the the mediaeval mediaeval Latin verb cabare to

Vignes. des Vignes. the impasse impasse des by the represented by is also also represented Posles, is des Postes, rue des which were were to which approaches to the approaches vineyards, the or vineyards, clos, or These clos, These noblepart of of aa noblesometimes part were sometimes courtilles, were by the the courtilles, enlivened by enlivened guarded -were weil well guarded vineyards were the vineyards and then then the domain, and man's domain, grew the crowd crowd grew Sometimes the fruit. Sometimes forbidden fruit. vines were were forbidden vines provost ofmerchants of merchants The provost rioting. The by rioting. revenge by angry, and and took revenge angry, together down, together burnt down, Barbette, burnt seat, courtille courtille Barbette, his country country seat, had his got to de lala to tbe the clos clos de they got 'And when when they vineyards. his vineyards with his with . 'And not only only was not courtille, itit was famous episcopal episcopal Lourtille, Ville-l'EvAqze, aa famous Ville-I'Evêque, hiding under under jibes that canons hidiog fat canons at the the fat aimed at they aimed that they caustic jibes caustic "theogathered for for aa"theohad gathered who had vines, who climbing vines, laden climbing heavily laden heavily banquet". logical banquet". logical

drinks can be tavem where drinks general sense the term means a tavern a general sometimes food is 00 the the premises, premises, and and where is sometimes where food consumed on served . served. The name is linked Iioked to the original courtille, aa rustic tavern on situated near vineyards, 'a green oasis which became alive 00 people who ftocked flocked there to joyous throng throng of people holidays with aa joyous pleasure aa revenge against The courtilles against boredorn.· boredom.' The find in in pleasure them can can were of them some of feast days; days; sorne were reserved for carousing on feast be traced by streets which by the the names exist, identified by still exist, which still be of the the vineyards round Georgeot, clos Georgeot, Thus the the clos courtilles. Thus round the the courtilles. of the the which slopes of southern slopes the southem on the its vineyards on spread its which spread

AAcabaret 1 (Flemish schoof) schoal) Franpisl(Flemish thereign reignofofFrançois cabaretduring duringthe

171 17l

CABARET CABARET 'When the the holidays holidays came people felt came the the people felt they they were werefree freefor for 'When few days. days. They They were were not not afraid afraid to to forget forget themselves themselves beside beside aa few a jug ofwine, of wine, and and when when the hot sun the hot sun rays rays invited invited them them to leave toleave ajug their damp damp and and smoky smoky dwelling-places dwelling-places they they would would venture venture their into the the country, groups, asas far country, inin groups, far asas the the most most distant distant into courtilles. court il/es. 'But, as as we we know, know, not not every every day day isis aa holiday. holiday. Whilst Whilst fully fully 'But, conscious of of the the truth truth of of this this old old axiom, axiom, the people did the people did not not conscious feel any any the less the the less the need need to to satisfy satisfy their their daily daily thirst thirst during during the the feel week. On On Sundays Sundays they they could could regard regard itit as as aa duty. duty. week. 'They needed needed therefore, therefore, in in the the absence absence of of the the courtilles courtilles 'They reserved for for carousing good feast carousing on on good feast days, days, sorne place not some place not reserved far from from their their homes homes where where they they cou could minister to to the the capcapfar Id minister rices of of this this daily daily thirst. thirst. These These places places were were the the first frrst cabarets. cabarets. rices 'A drinker drinker worthy worthy of of the the name name never never mistook mistooka cabaret for for 'A a cabaret tavern. In In aa tavern tavern he he could could sit sit down down at at aa table table and and drink drink aa tavern. but he he could could not not do do so so in in aa cabaret; cabaret; he he had had to to drink drink outside. outside. but 'A stout stout wood wooden guarded the trellis-work guarded the entry entry to to the the 'A en trellis-work houses of of cabaret cabaret keepers. keepers. Through Through an an opening opening cut cut in in the the houses trellis-work the publican handed the publican handed the the wine wine to to the the customer. customer. trellis-work jug, which He had had to to hold hold the which he the jug, he used used as as aa measure, measure, upside upside He down to to show show that that there possible way there was was no no possible way of of drinking drinking down premises. Such on his his premises. Such were were the the official official orders provost, orders of of the the provost, on and the the inn-keeper inn-keeper had had to to abide abide by by this this method method of of selling selling and "by means jug" !' means of aa cut cut door door and and an an overturned overturned jug"!' "by In the the centuries centuries which which followed, followed, the the cabarets cabarets became became In identified with with taverns, taverns, and and the the two two words became became synonysynonyidentified mous. Some cabarets cabarels which were frequented frequented by by writers, writers, especially especially Sorne in the the seventeenth century, century, acquired acquired lasting lasting fame. fame. Among Among in (n rue them were were le le MouLOn Mouton blanc blanc (in rue du du Vieux-Colombier) Vieux-Colombier) them where Racine, Racine, La La Fontaine Fontaine and and Boileau Boileau used used to to meet; meet; le le where (rue du Sabot (rue du Pot-de-Fer) where Ronsard Ronsard would come come in in for for drink and and which which Chapelain also also visited; visited; l'Ecu l'Ecu d'Argent; d'Argent; aa drink (rue de la Licorne), the meeting-place meeting-place of the the la Pomme de Pin (rue scholars by Rabelais. Rabelais. Notable Notable among among eighteenth eighteenth scholars mentioned by century inns were (on the were le le Caveau (on the Buci crossroads) crossroads) where Coll6, Piron and and many other other epicureans epicureans used used to to gather to Collé, sing songs and and where 1737 the where in in 1737 the Caveau sing their their bawdy bawdy songs (rue de formed; and and le le Chat Chat blanc blanc (rue de la la VieiIJeVieilleSociety was was formed; Lanterne). Lanterne).

nutritional point pointofofview. view.ItIt isisrich rich ininVitamins VitaminsBI Bland andB2 82 nutritional (essential for forthe assimilation of theassimilation andfats), fats), ininVitamin ofsugars sugarsand Vitamin (essential (itcon contains muchasasaalemon), lemon),and andininVitamin VitaminK. K.MoreMoreCC(it tains asasmuch over, itit contains quantities of contains large largequantities mineralsalts: ofmineraI salts:calcium, calcium, over, potassium, sulphur, magnesium, potassium, sulphur, etc. etc.Unfortunately, Unfortunately, owing owing magnesium, to its its indigestibility, indigestibility, itit requires prolongedcooking requires prolonged cookingduring during to (This disadvantage which much much ofits nutritional value of its nutritional value isislost. lost. (This which disadvantage partly overcome can be overcomeby be partly byshredding shreddingthe thecabbage cabbage finely finely and can and cooking itit rapidly rapidly ininaacupfuJ cupfulof cooking ofboiling boiling water.) water.) Dietetically Dietetically speaking, itit isisbest besteaten raw. eaten raw. speaking, GREEN CABBAGE. CABBAGE. CHOUX cHoux VERTS vERrs- GREEN Boiled cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT VERT ÀAL'ANGLAISE Boiled r'ANGLArss - - Cut Cut aacabbage cabbage quarters. Remove into quarters. Remove the part of the fibrous fibrous part into of the the stem stemand and the the coarse outer outer Ieaves, leaves, cook cook inin salt coarse salt water wateruntil until tender. tender. Drain, Drain, press between plates to between two two plates press sture, slice to extract extract the the moi moisture, slice cabcabbage into into rectangles. rectangles. bage Green cabbage prepared in cabbage prepared in this Green this way wayisisused usedas asaavegetable vegetable with melted served with melted butter, garnish. served butter, or or as asaagarnish. Braised cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cHou VERT vERr BRAISÉ Braised sn,Ars6 -- Divide Divide aa cabbage cabbage quarters, blanch, into quarters, put under into blanch, put under the the cold cold tap, tap, and and then drain. then drain. Break up up the the cabbage cabbage and and remove remove the portions of Break the thick thick portions the of the stem. Season pepper and stem. Season with with salt, grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Line Line aa deep casserole casserole with deep with strips larding bacon, strips of of larding add the bacon, add the cabbage, cabbage, an on onion an ion stuck ove, aa large with aa clclove, stuck with large carrot quarters, carrot cut cut into into quarters, garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Moisten and aa bouquet bouquet garni and Moisten with with stock stock which which has has not not (if there been skimmed been skimmed of of its its fat fat (if there isis no no fat, fat, add add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant tf cup) (scant cup) c1arified clarified fat fat to to it). it). Coyer with strips Cover with strips of of fat fat bacon. bacon. Start the stove Start cooking cooking on on top top of ofthe stove then pan and then coyer cover the put and put the pan in aa moderate moderate oyen itit in oven for for about about 11 l| hours. hours. piece of A A piece of blanched pork can lean pork blanched lean added. Braised can be be added. Braised cabbage cabbage may be used used as may be as aa vegetable vegetable but, more often, but, more often, appears appears garnish. in aa garnish. in Cabbage in marinade. Cabbage in marinade. CHOU cHou VERT vnnr MARINÉ MlnrNf -- Prepared Prepared like like Red cabbage (see below). Red cabbage in in marinade marinade (see below). Cabbage Cabbage salado slrnoE DE DE CHOU salad. SALADE cHou VERT VERT -- Slice Slice the the cabbage cabbage finely, finely, blanch for for 15 15 minutes minutes in in salted salted water. water. Put Put under under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain drain and and dry. dry. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper like pepper like an green salado an ordinary ordinary green salad.

CABARET set, including CABARET (Liquarr (Liqueur stand) -- A liqueur liqueur set, including glasses and either on on aa tray and decanters, decanters, presented presented either tray or or in in aa special cabinet.

CABBAGE. cHou CHOU - Highly esteemed by by the the Greeks Greeks and particularly particularly by by the Romans, the cabbage seems to have been unknown to the Hebrews. It is not mentioned in the Bible. Apart Apart from seakale, no 00 species species of cabbage survives survives in a wild state. state. A developed through A great many new varieties have been developed cultivation. cultivation. The three three main classes of full-hearted full-hearted cabbages are: are: the 'headed' 'headed' smooth-leafed smooth-leafed green green cabbage, cabbage, the the Milan Milan curlyleafed leafed cabbage, cabbage, and the the red red cabbage. cabbage. The The spring spring 'headed' cabbage cabbage is usually usually conical and com-

Little balls (Larousse) Little stuffed (Larousse) stuffed cabbage cabbage balls

monly known as'pointed'cabbage. as 'pointed' cabbage. The summer or autumn autumn monly known 'headed' 'headed' cabbage cabbage is is rounder rounder in in shape shape and and includes includes the varieties varieties de de Boston Boston or de de Brunswick Brunswick and and quintal d'Alsace which which are are often often used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of sauerkraut.Best sauerkraut. Best known known of of the the winter win ter cabbages cabbages are de de No€l Noël and de de Vaugirard Vaugirard

pnrrrs CHOUX Little stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage balls. balls. PETITS porJR GARNITURE Little cHoux POUR cARNrruRE

large cabbage into quarters, wash, wash, blanch blanch for for 88 to to -- Divide aalarge 10 minutes in salt water, rinse, and and drain. l0 drain.

d'hiver. d'hiver. Milan Milan cabbages cabbages have have curly curly (occasionally (occasionally crinkled) crinkled) leaves. leaves. There There are are no no less less than than twenty-five twenty-five varieties. varieties. Five Five varieties varieties of of red red cabbage cabbage are are cultivated cultivated in in France. France. These These are are common common to to all ail regions regions and and are are in in season season throughthroughout out the the year. year. The The cabbage cabbage isis aa particularly particularly interesting interesting vegetable vegetable from from aa

Remove all aIl the leaves and them by by paring the Remove and trim them ribbed the ribbed stuffing with with the the tender tender inner inner leaves leaves and stalks. Make a stuffing and an an of forcemeat. Put aa round round of equal quantity of of stuffing stuffing on on each each leaf and roll into tight balls. balls. Braise Braise in in the the usual usual way. leaf way. cabbage balls balls are are used used to to garnish gamish large large braised braised Stuffed cabbage joints. joints. The cabbage leaves leaves can be be stuffed stuffed with with all ail kinds kinds of of hashes or pur6es. purées. hashes 172 t72

CABBAGE CABBAGE

:].$! ( Robert Carrier) provengale(Robert cabbage aalalaprovençale Stuffed cabbage Stuffed Carrier)

173

CABBAGE PALM CABBAGEPALM t::iiii]:

three-quarters cooked cookedadd add33 peeled, peeled, quartered quartered tart tart apples apples three-quarters and 1I tablespoon tablespoon brown brownsugar. sugar. Finish Finish cooking cooking on onaa low low and heat, the theoverall overall time time being beingabout about 22hours. hours. heat, Redcabbage cabbage ài lala limousine. limousine. CHOU cHou ROUGE Roucn ÀALA rn LIMOUSINE ruvrousrxr - Red Shred the the cabbage put itit into cabbage and and put intoan anearthenware earthenwarecasserole. casserole. Shred Moistenwith with bouillon bouillon and and add add44 tablespoons ($cup) tablespoons (1 pork cup) pork Moisten fat, and andchopped peeled chestnuts. chopped peeled chestnuts. Season Season with with salt salt and and fat, pepper. Cook Cook with with the the lid lid on on for for about about 22 hours. hours. pepper. Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade. marinade. CHOU cuou ROUGE Roucr MARINÉ rra.qnrlri - - Shred Shred the the Red cabbage after after removing removing the the hard hard core core and and ribs. ribs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cabbage fine salt salt and and leave leave for for 48 48 hours, hours, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. fine Drain the the cabbage cabbage and put itit inin an and put an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl with with Drain peppercorns, fragments fragments of of bay bay leaf, leaf, and garlic clove. and aa garlic clove. Coyer Cover peppercorns, with vinegar vinegar which which has has been been boiled boiled and and aUowed allowed to to cool. cool. with Marinate for for 24 24 to to 48 48 hours. hours. Marinate Red cabbage cabbage in in marinade marinade isis used used as as an an hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre.It Red It isis also served served with with boiled boiled beef. beef. also Stalks and and stumps stumps of of red red and green cabbage. and green cabbage. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE Stalks cHou ROUGE RoucE ET ET CHOU cHou VERT VERT -- The The core of these these vegetables core of vegetables is is CHOU usually discarded, discarded, but but itit can can be be very very tasty tasty and and can, if well can, if well usually cooked, provide provide very good dishes. very good dishes. cooked, Remove ail all the the woody woody outer outer casing. casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if itit isis Remove to be be served served with with the the vegetable. vegetable. If If itit isis to to be be cooked cooked sepasepato rately, cut into rounds. cut into rounds. After After blanching, blanching, these these stalks stalks and rately, stumps can prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way as artichoke way as artichoke stalks stalks stumps or endive endive stumps. stumps. or

:ij:iiliilXi:!:ii]ti ::;]:i

Stuffed cabbage (I-ar ous se') Sluffed cabbage (Larousse)

Stuffd cabbage. cabbage. CHOU cuou VERT vERT FARCI FARCr -- Blanch Blanch aa whole whole cabcabStuffed bage in in salted salted water, put itit under water, put under the the cold cold tap, tap, drain, drain, and and bage remove the stem. stem. remove the Spread out out the the cabbage cabbage on on aa damp damp cloth. cloth. Stuff Stuff the the heart heart Spread with aa ball pork stuffing. ball of of fine fine pork stuffing. Close Close the the leaves leaves round round this, this, with and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape and fill the outer leaves, closing them in to reform the shape of the the cabbage. cabbage. Wrap Wrap in in thin thin strips strips of of bacon bacon fat fat and and tie in the the tie in of cloth. Put Put the the cabbage cabbage in in aa braising pan lined braising pan lined with with bacon bacon cloth. rinds and slices of onion and carrot. rinds and s!ices of onion and carrot. Cover with with aa fat fat stock stock and and braise braise for for about about 1l]t hours. hours. Coyer Drain the cabbage and and remove remove the the bards. bards. Serve Serve with with aa sauce sauce Drain the cabbage made of of the the cooking cooking liquor liquor boiled boiled down down and and enriched with enriched with made little brown brown sauce. sauce. This This stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, cut cut into into thick thick aa !ittle slices, is served as a garnish for large joints. s!ices, is served as a garnish for large joints. The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the The cabbage can be prepared in another way. Remove the heart, chop the tender tender leaves, leaves, mix mix with with the the stuffing stuffing and and fil! fill heart, chop the the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. the cabbage with this mixture and braise it. Stufred cabbage ài la (Nigoise cookery). la provengale provençale (Niçoise cookery). cuou CHOU Stuffed cabbage FARcr Blanch a large cabbage for 88 mindtes salted water, FARCI -- Blanch a large cabbage for minutes in in salted water, rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves rinse in cold water, and drain. Remove the large outer leaves and stems. Spread Spread these and the the ribbed ribbed stems. these leaves leaves out out flat flat on on a a thin thin damp cloth stretched on on the damp cloth stretched the table table and and chop chop the the inside inside leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and leaves. Stuff the outer leaves with the chopped-up leaves and the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) the following ingredients, arranged in layers: 250 g. (9 oz.) blanched blanched best best leaves; leaves; 2N 200 e.Q g. (7 oz.') oz.) diced diced and and browned browned lean lean pork; I medium·sized onion, pork; 1 medium-sized onion, chopped chopped and and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter; 2 large peeled, tomatoes, seeded and chopped; butter; 2 large tomatoes, peeled, seeded and chopped; 100 g. (4 oz., f, cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., f cup) fresh 100 g. (4 oz.,J cup) blanched rice; 100 g. (4 oz., J. cup) fresh green peas; 750 g. (l+ lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a green peas; 750 g. (li lb.) sausage meat seasoned with a crushed garlic clove. crushed garlic clove. Fold Fold the the cabbage cabbage leaves leaves round round the the stuffing stuffing in in the the form form of of aa ball, tie up the cloth and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the bail, tie up the cio th and put into a pot-au-feu prepared in the usual way but using mutton instead of beef. Cook slowlv for usual way but using mutton instead ofbeef. Cook slowly for about 3| hours. about 3t hours. Drain Drain the the cabbage cabbage and and pour pour a a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the cooking liquor over it. cooking liquor over it. This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine nigoise, can This dish, which is fundamental to the cuisine niçoise, can be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was be served with the soup from the pot-au-feu in which it was cooked. cooked. Stufred cabbage rolls. csou vERr FARcr EN BALLoTTTNE Stuffed cabbage roUs. CHOU VERT FARCI EN BALLOTTINE -Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on Lay out slices of larding bacon on a damp cloth and place on top ofthem cabbage leaves which have been blanched, rinsed top ofthem cabbage leaves whicb have been blanched, rinsed put and dried, the leaves and dried, the leaves overlapping overlapping to to form form aa rectangle. rectangle. Put rolls of stuffing roUs of stuffing in in the the centre centre of ofthe the leaves, leaves, wrap wrap them them round round the stuffing, and tie up in the cloth. Braise in the manner the stuffing, and tie up in the clotho Braise in the manner indicated above. indicated above.

pALMrsrE - Terminal CABBAGE PALM. PALM. PALMISTE bud of of several CABBAGE - Terminal bud species of palm. of palm. species pALMrsrE EN palm en (Creole cookery). Cabbage palm en daube daube (Creole cookery). PALMISTE Cabbage DAUBE -- Parboil Parboil pieces pieces of of cabbage palm palm shoots cut lengthDAUBE ways into into strips strips and and tied tied in in bundles to to keep them them together. ways Brown in in fat on aa low low heat heat for for about about 30 30 minutes. Add Add 1I Brown fat on tablespoon flour flour and and blend in, frying frying it lightly. Add tI teait lightly. tablespoon blend it it in, spoon tomato puree and and moisten spoon tomato purée moisten with concentrated chicken stock prepared advance from giblets. stock prepared in in advance from chicken giblets. Cook for several minutes, Cook for several minutes, put put in in the the oven oyen for for a a while without without allowing al!owing the the top to brown, brown, and serve serve in a little little sauce. sauce.

CABERNET CABERNET -- Variety Variety of of vine vine grown grown extensively in in the Bordeaux Bordea ùx vineyards. vineyards. There There are are t;o two species: cabernet-franc cabernet-franc and, ccabernet-sauvignon. aberne t - s auv ignon. and The The red red wines wines of of Chinon, Chinon, Bourgueil Bourgueil and and SaumurChampigny Champigny are are also also made made from from this grape. grape. A A well-known wel!-known Anjou Anjou ros6 rosé bears bears the the same same name. name.

CACHALOT CACHALOT (Sperm-whale) (Sperm-whale) - Sea mammal, mammal, the the flesh flesh of of which which is is sometimes sometimes used used as as food. food.

RED RoucES RED CABBAGE. CAB BAGE. cHoux CHOUX ROUGES --

Red cabbage i la flamande. cHou RoucE A r-a rr.c,MA.NDE Red cabbage à la Oamande. CHOU ROUGE À LA FLAMANDEWash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard Wash, quarter and shred the cabbage, removing the hard core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle core and stem. Season with salt and pepper, and sprinkle with a few with a few drops drops of of vinegar. vinegar. Cook Cook slowly slowly in in butter. butter. When When

Stuffed Sluffedcabbage cabbagerolls rolls

r74 174

CAF6S CAFÉS CACHOU. CACHOU. cAcHUND6 CACHUNDÉ -- Aromatic Aromatic tablets tablets used used in in the the Far Far East, East, totowhich which stomachic stomachicproperties propertiesare areattributed. attributed. They Theyare are mainly mainly used used to to freshen freshen and and sweeten sweeten breath breath and and are are made made of of

went At At the the same same period period in in Paris Paris aa man man called called Candiol Candiol went utensils. He about about carrying carrying aa hawker's hawker's tray tray with with domestic domestic utensils. He price of also also sold sold coffee, coffee, which which could could be be taken taken home home at at the the price of Joseph, two two sorrs sous aa cup, cup, including including sugar. sugar. His His associate, associate, Joseph,

namon, namon, bole, bole, etc. etc.

in rue Saintaa Levantine opened another another in rue SaintLevantine from from Aleppo, Aleppo, opened

amber, amber, musk, musk, sandalwood, sandalwood, sweet sweet calamus, cala mus, galingale, galingale, cincin-

and Etienne, opened opened aa caf1 caféatatthe theend end of ofNotre-Dame Notre-Damebridge, bridge, and Etienne,

These caf6s Andr6-des-Arts, André-des-Arts, facing facing the the Saint-Michel Saint-Michel bridge. bridge. These cafés frewere than dirty dirty little little smoking-saloons smoking-saloons frewere really really no no more more than from the Lebanon travellers smokers, quented by confirmed quented by confirmed smokers, travellers from the Lebanon sold in these ind and by by several several Knights Knights of of Malta' Malta. The The coffee coffee sold in these were 56 shops shops was was mediocre mediocre and and badly badly served. served. By By 1754 1754 there there were 56 their caf6i cafés in in Paris; Paris; by by the the end end of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century century their quality' numbers numbers had had risen risen to to 600, 600, of of aa much mu ch higher higher quality. as meetingThe The caf6s cafés very very soon soon replaced replaced the the cabarets cabarets as meetingcafes the first was places of letters. letters. Among Among literary literary cafés the first was places for for men men of near the the the Cafi Café dt du Parnasse Parnasse at at the the end end of of the the Pont-Neuf, Pont-Neuf, near the in rue Dauphine; Samaritaine; Samaritaine; then then the the Veuve Veuve Lourent, Laurent, in rue Dauprune; goes back to the eightand and the the Cafi Café Procope Procope whose whose fame fame goes back to the eightregulars Buffon, eenth eenth century cent ury when when itit counted counted among among its its regulars Buffon, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, Voltaire, Voltaire, d'Holbach' d'Holbach, Diderot' Djderot, d'AlemGilbert, Marmontel, bert bert and and others. others. rue Saint-Antoine The The widow widow Fournier, Fournier, whose whose caf6 café in in rue Saint-Antoine first to think of the was was founded founded by by Baptiste Baptiste in in 1690, 1690, was was the the first to think of the newspapers' idea of providing providing her her regular regular customers customers with with newspapers. idea of and Journal des edto She Gazette de de France, France, Mercure Mercure and Journal des She subscrib subscribed to Gazette was the Savants.The Café des des Grhces, Grâces, in in rue rue de de I'Arbre-Sec, l'Arbre-Sec, was the Savants. The Cafi The Cafe first establishment in in Paris Paris to to have have public public billiards' billiards. The Café first establishment chess-players, de de la la Rigence Régence became became the the meeting-place meeting-place of of chess-players, against the and Jean-Jacques and Jean-Jacques Rousseau Rousseau tried tried his his skill skill there there against the the cafes played Revolution the During Philidor. celebrated celebrated Philidor. During the Revolution the cafés played committees of as meeting-places an important an important r6le rôle as meeting-places of of secret secret committees of as tribunes for and as Convention and of the members members of the National National Convention tribunes for orators. orators. of fame: too, have caf6s, too, The Palajs-Royal Palais-Royal cafés, The have had had their their hour hour of fame: Cafd and Café Corazza and Cafi Corazza Rotonde, Café de la la Rotonde, Foy, Café Cafi de de Foy, Cafe de Café officers on Bonapartist officers of Bonapartist were the the meeting-places Lamblin were meeting-places of on Lamblin half-pay. half-pay. Riche caf6s, Cafi Boulevard cafés, the Boulevard Empire the the Second Second Empire Under the Under Café Riche of meeting-places of the meeting-places were the Frascati, were all, Café Cafi Frascati, above ail, and, above and, journalists. When disFrascati's disWhen Frascati's and journalists. dramatists and writers, dramatists writers, In the the Latin Napolitain' In Cafd Napolitain. by Café replaced by was replaced appeared, itit was appeared, Latin at Café CafE Vachette. held court court at Mor6as held Jean Moréas Quarter, Jean Quarter, Vachette. and more more numerous and more numerous although more caf6s, although Today the the cafés, Today political and and literary same political not the the same have not ever, have luxurious than than ever, luxurious Iiterary perhaps of a few Left Bank exception perhaps with the the exception influence, with influence, of a few Left Bank

Cadenas Cadenas for for the the roYal royal cutlery cutlery

CADENAS CADENAS -- Container, Container, with with grooves, grooves, which which closed closed like Iike aa drawer. It It was was used used in the the royal royal households households for for the the same same purpurpos€ pose as as the nef, a basket basket containing royal royal cutlery, cutlery, napkins, napkins, etc. It held he Id fork, knife and spoon, and bread bread was was placed placed on on on the dish. dish. Under Louis XIV XIV it it became became a a hexagonal hexagonal tray trayon which napkin, napkin, fork, knife knife and spoon spoon were placed. placed. The The grand grand on his andthe pantler pantler had the nef nef and the cadenas cadenas conjoined conjoined on his coat-ofcoat-ofarms.

only liquid CAFES -- Establishments where, CAFÉS where, in in principle, principle, only liquid coffee. and coffee. refreshments refreshments are served, originally only wine wine and quantities to to in large coffee in first brought coffee Aga first Suleiman Aga large quantities opened aa Pascal opened called Pascal Armenian called an Annenian 1669. Later, Later, an in 1669. France in roaring and did did aa roaring fair, and Saint-Germain fair, at the the Saint-Germain shop at coffee shop coffee opened aa and opened quai de I'Ecole and de l'Ëcole fair, he went to quai trade. After the fair, at the the SaintSaintas at success as same success not have the same did not but did new new shop shop but had coffee had where coffee London' where to London, went to He then then went fair. He Germain Germain fair. Armenian' another Armenian, Pascal, another After Pascal, 1652. After known since since 1652. been been known to went to later went while later little while but aa little caf€, but opened aa café, Maliban, opened Maliban, who Gregoire who called Gregoire man called to aa man house to leaving his his house Holland, leaving Holland, the near the be near to be rue Mazarine Mazarine to to rue his establishment establishment to moved moved his rue opposite rue street, opposite in that that street, then in was then which was Comddie which Comédie Gu6n6gaud. Guénégaud.

1830(ScltaaD AAcaf6in café in 1830 (Schaaf)

175 175

CAFFEINE CAFFEINE establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young establishments, which still serve as meeting-places for young literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF literary and artistic movements. (See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS.) BYGONE DAYS.) CAFFEINE. cAFErr\E Alkatoid substance contained in CAFFEINE. CAFÉINE - - Alkaloid substance contained in coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amount coffee, which acts on the nervous system. A moderate amoun t of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and of coffee soothes, eliminates the feeling of tiredness and exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. exhaustion, makes mental work easier, dispels drowsiness. A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation,trembling, trembling, A bigger dose can bring on nervous excitation, insomnia. insomnia. Coflee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in Coffee has a stimulating effect on the heart if taken in moderation; excessive coffee drinking causes palpitations moderation; excessive coffee d rinking causes pal pitations and irregularity of the heartbeat. and irregularity of the heartbeat. Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the Coffee also acts as a digestive stimulant, speeding the passage of food through the the body (and often body (and ofien causing causing passage of food through diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other handl diarrhoea). It can have a diuretic effect. On the other hand, cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are cases of articular deformation, cited by Brillat-Savarin, are not caused by excessive intake ofcoffee. not caused by excessive intake of coffee. (especially strong black coffee) must not be given to 99tr* (especially Coffee strong black coffee) must not be given to children, adolescents, people of nervous disposition or those children, adolescents, people ofnervous disposition or those suffering from heart conditions; nor shouid it be given to suffering from heart conditions; Dor should it be given to certain dyspeptics. certain dyspeptics. Although Voltaire, who drank six cups of coffee daily, was Although Voltaire, who drank six cups ofcoffee daily, was loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could have have bad lad aa loud in its praise, his over-indulgence could bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the bearing on the enterocolitis from which he suffered to the end of his life. end of his life. Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty Finally, black coffee ought never to be drunk on an empty stomach and white coffee is even worse for the svstem than stomach and white coffee is even worse for the system than black. black. CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) Name given in certain regions of CAILLEBOTTE (Curds) -- Name given in certain regions of France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten France to curdled milk, drained in a muslin bag and eaten

CAILLIER- -Wooden Woodenvessel vesselused usedininthe MiddleAges theMiddle Agesand and CAILLIER untilthe theend ofthe thesixteenth endof sixteenth century centuryasasa adrinking drinkingcup. cup.ItItwas was until madeininthe theshape shapeofofa abowl bowlofofaverage averagesize supportedbybya a sizesupported made leg,the thewhole wholecarved carvedout pieceofofwood. outofofone onepiece wood.There Therewere were leg, alsobowls bowlsmade madeinina alarger largersize sizewhich whichserved servedasascontainers containers also forwine, wine,the thebowl-shaped bowl-shapedlids lidsbeing beingused usedasasdrinking drinkingvessels. vessels. for CAISSETTES- - Small garnishedcases Smallgarnished casesoffered offeredasashot hothorsCAISSETTES ftorsd'euvre or orasasaasmall (SeeHORS-D'ŒUVRE, smallentrée. entrie.(See HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot d'œuvre Hot hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) CAKE.GÂTEAU cArreu- - The Theword ghteau isissasaid wordgâteau comefrom fromthe CAKE. id totocome the gastean, WhlCh word gasteau, whichitself itselfderives derives from from the theold gastel, oldtenn word termgastel, delicatefood food that quickly deteriorates thatquickly deteriorates(gâter (gdter - - totospoil). spoil). aadelicate generic tenu The generic gdteau or term gâteau or cake cake designates designates ail The alltypes typesof of pastry and andcakes cakes inin the thestrict strictsense senseof of the theterm, term, while while the pastry the word entremets entremets or (U.S. or sweet sweet (U dessert) applies appliesmore moreespeciword .S. dessert) especially to to sweet preparations such sweet preparations such as ascrea creams, fritters, charlottes, ally ms, fritters, charlottes. tarts, flans pies, pudd flans and and pies, puddings, souffies and and all all kinds kinds of tarts, ings, soufflés of ices, ices. which belong belong to to the the do domain of the the cook cook rather rather than than that which main of that of of the confectioner. confectioner. the Cakes are are made made from from any any of of eight eight doughs doughs inin French French Cakes confectionery: ftake pastry (feuilletage), flake pastry (feuilletage), short pastry (pâte shortpastry confectionery: QtAte brisde), sweet pastry (pâte sweet pastry sucrde), brioche, brioche, savarin, saiarin, baba, brisée), baba, Qtdte sucrée), gdnoise, chou pastry. chou pastry. génoise, To these these may may be added aa large be added large number number of of mixtures mixtures of To of additional ingredients ingredients such such as as almond paste, various almond paste, various kinds additional kinds of sugar sugar icing, icing, fondant, fondant, French French pastry pastry cream (crime cream (crème of pdtissiire), frangipane cream cream and and other other creams, praline (q.v.), (q.v.), creams, praline pât issière), frangipane etc. etc. In France, France, as as weil well as as in in many many other other countries, countries, there ln there are are symbolic cakes cakes which, in in sorne some cases, cases, have have been been being symbolic being made made for centuries, centuries, and and are are eaten eaten on on certain feast feast days. days. One for One such such is the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, which symbolises symbolises the great feast is feast of of the Epiphany. Epiphany. the

fresh.

fresh.

CAILLETOT

Name commonly used used in in Normandy for CAILLETOT -- Name commonly Normandy for young turbot. young turbot.

Ancient gateaux or centre-pieces, after Car6me : Turkish pavilion Ruins of a rotunda Large fountain ; Ruins of a rotunda; Ancien! gâteaux or centre-pieces, after Carême: Turkish pavilion; ; Large fountain

t76 176

CAKE CAKE

(Iarozsse) Large Largecakes: cakes: Dijon; Dijon;Madasgar; Madasgar; St StJames James (Larousse)

In In France, France, from from the the very very earliest earliest times, times, aa large large number number of of provinces provinces have have produced produced pastries pastries for for which which they they are are noted. noted. Thus Thus Artois Artois had had gdteaux gâteaux razis, razis, and and Bourbonnais Bourbonnais the the ancient ancient tartes tartes de de fromage fromage broyi, broyé, de de crime crème et et de de moyeux moyeux d'oeulz. d'oeulz. Flat-cakes Flat-cakes are are still still made made in in Normandy, Normandy, Picardy, Picard y, Poitou Poitou and and in in some sorne provinces provinces of of the the south south of of France' France. They They are are called variously variously fouaces, fouaces, fouaches, fouaches, fouies fouées or or fouyasses, fouyasses, according according to to the the district. (See (See HEARTH-CAKE') HEARTH-CAKE.) Until Until the the seventeenth seventeenth century century itit was was usual usual at at Whitsuntide Whitsuntide and oublies in Paris Paris to throw down nieules nieules and oublies (wafers), (wafers), local local Parisian of the the worshippers worshippers Pari sian confections, confections, upon the the heads heads of gathered gathered under the vaulted vaulted roofs of of the the Cathedral Cathedral of of NotreNotreDame. At the same same time blazing blazing wicks were were showered showered on on the the congregation. congregation. Ahong Among the many pastries pastries which were in high high favour favour from from cities centuries in the twelfth to the fifteenth in Paris Paris and and other other cities fifteenth centuries ichaudis of which which two variants, variants, the flageols fiageols and and the the were: were; échaudés of Paris; by the people people of Paris; and, and gobets, were were especially prized by of strips of (q.v.), small tartlets covered with tartlets covered darioles (q.v.), darioles with narrow narrow strips with one filled made, one were made, darioles were of darioles pastry. Two Two kinds kinds of pastry. filled with Talemouses cream. Talemouses with frangipane cream. the other with iream cheese, the cream (cheese turnovers) were turnovers) were as talmouses (cheese which are known today as f/ot (See HORS-D'ŒUVRES, HORS-D'(EUVRES, Hot appreciated. (See much appreciated. also much also hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) today; made today; pastry still still made (q.v.\ is hard pastry is aa dry, dry, hard Casse-museru (q.v.) Casse-museau in aa are mentioned mentioned in gilteaux feuilletés and gâteaux choux and ratons, petits choux ratons, feuilletds are proves 1311, which which proves in 1311, of Amiens in Bishop of Robert, Bishop by Robert, charter by charter seventeenth the seventeenth before the in France before known in was known flakypastry that flaky that pastry was process of making of making the process claim, the writers daim, some writers when, sorne century, century, when, painter. the pain Gel6e, the Claude Gelée, by Claude invented by pastry was was invented flaky ter. flaky pastry into organised into pastry-cooks, organised centuries, pastry-cooks, following centuries, tn the ihe following In also but also above' but listed above, pastries listed the pastries produced not not only only the guilds, produced guilds, joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gdteaux joyeux, brioches, bridaneaux, gAteaux bavueuls, bavueuls, gâteaux gâteaux biscuits, matzipan biscuits, kinds, marzipan various kinds, of various pains d'épices, waffies of d ipices, waffies pains

royaleswhich tarts tarts and and flans flans garnished garnished inin various various ways;pAtes ways; pâtes royales which dough cakes, were of meringue; meringue; almond almond cakes, cakes, dough cakes, were a a kind kind of Milan, cracknels and gdteaux de Beauce; Beauce; gdteaux gâteaux de de Milan, cracknels and gâteaux de flamiches. fiamiches. (See (See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKERY') COOKERY.) some of the CAKES CAKES AND AND SMALL SMALL CAKES CAKES -- We We list list below below sorne of the cakes. Recipes for many -of small gdteaux and known best best known gâteaux and smaU cakes. Recipes for many of in alphabetical order them them will will be be found found in in this this section section or or in alphabetical order throughout throughout the the book. book. Angel cake Alizar Alcazar,, Allumettes Allumettes,, Almond Almond cake cake,, Amandines, Amandines, Angel cake,, cake. Apple Apple cake. - -Baba, Biscuits h la Biscuits de Baba, BAton Bâton de de Jacob, Jacob, Biscuits de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, Biscuits à la Boule de Bisanits de cailler, cuiller, Biscuits de Savoie, Savoie, Bouchies Bouchées it à l'abricot, l'abricot, Boule de Briochin' neige, Brestois, Breton, neige, Brestois, Breton, Brioche, Brioche, Brioche Brioche Goubaud, Goubaud, Briochin. Conversation, Chausson aux pommes, pommes, Cornets Cornets dà la la crime, crème, Conversation, Chausson aux Croquembouche. Croquembouche. Diion, Duchesse, Dampfnudetn, Dampfnudeln, Darioles, Darioles, Dartois, Dartois, Dijon, Duchesse, Dumpling. Dumpling. Eclairs. EchaudCs. Éclairs. Échaudés, abricots, Flan aux abricots aux abricots, amandes, Flan aux amandes, Feuilleti au)( Feuilleté Flan aux Flan aux abricots cerises , Flm aux fruits , Flan meringud , aux cerises, FIan aux d l'alsacienne, I' alsacienne , Flan à Flan auxfruits, Flan meringué, aux poires, Flan pAches, Flan aux Flan mirabelles, Flan aux pêches, Flan aux aux mirabelles, Flan aux Flan poires, Flan pommes grilli, Flan aux prunes' Flan aux pommes, aux aux pommes, Flan aux pommes grillé, Flan aux prunes. Ghteat de citrouille, I'orange, Gâteau Galette àh l'orange, Gatette feuilletée, feuitletie, Galette de citrouille, Galette Ginoise au chocolat, I'abricot, Génoise Ginoise àd l'abricot, voyage, Génoise di voyage, Gdteau de Gâteau au chocolat, Goren' Gimblette, normande, d la Ginoise moka, an moka, Génoise à la normande, Gimblette, GorenGinoise au Génoise Gougire. flot, fiot, Gougère. Inngues de chat. Kouglof, Langues Koulitsche, Kouglof, Kiche, Koulitsche, Jalousie, Kiche, Jalousie, de chat. cake, Madeleines, Mal' Madeira cake, Madasgar, Madeira Macaroons, Madasgar, Macaroons, Madeleines, Malgac he, M anc hons, M andarine, M anqui, M arignan, M9s c o t 1e-' gache, Manchons, Mandarine, Manqué, Marignan, Mascotte, M erveilles, MilM eringues, Merveilles, M azarin, Meringues, M assillon, Mazarin, M assepain, Massillon, Massepain, MilRouen, Moka, de Mirliton Millasous, anais, Miltefeuilles, anais, Millefeuilles, Millasous, Mirliton de Rouen, Moka, Montmorency, Monte-Cristo, Montmorency, Moques, Monte-Cristo, Mokatine, ·Moques, Mokatine, Mousseline. Mousseline.

Buns (C/aire)

(Desmeuzes.Phol. I'arousse) Phot.Larousse) cakes(Desmeuzes. Smallcakes Small

Buns (Claire)

r77 177

CAKE CAKE Nantais, N apolitain, Nemour s, Ndr oli, Norvdgien, N ougat, Nantais, Napoli/ain, Nemours, Néroli, Norvégien, Nougat, Nouga/ine. Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain d I'anis, pain azyme, pain Oublies, Pain anglais, Pain à l'anis, Pain azyme, Pain complet, Pain de mais, Pain de Ia Mecque, palais de dames, complet, Pain de maïs, Pain de la Mecque, Palais de dames, Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis dt Biarn. pavi au Palmiers, Paneton, Parisien, Pastis du Béarn, Pavé au chocolat, Pavd aux fruits, Pavd au moka, pavi aux noisettes, chocolat, Pavé aux fruits, Pavé au moka, Pavé aux noise lies, Pithiviers, Plum cake, Pogne de Romans, pont-neuf, poupelin, Pithiviers, P/um cake, Pogne de Romans, Pont-neuf, Poupelin, Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. Profiteroles, Punch cake, Puits d'amour. quar r ts, Quic he, Quille t. Quat e Quatre-quarts, Quiche, Quille/. Rabo t t e, Rame quin, Re lig ieus e, Riche lieu, Rigodon. Rabotte, Ramequin, Religieuse, Richelieu, Rigodon. Nougatine.

ils;

:::

b5;i,

GermanEaster Eastercake (Ostertorte) cake(Ostertorte) Gennan

ofsugar sugarsurrounded surrounded by by44small smallchocolate chocolate eggs, of eggs,each eachininits its nest of of butter buttercream. crearn. nest pArNDE Fruit loaf loaf or (Alsation pastry). orBireweck Bireweck (AJsation pastry). PAIN Fruit DEFRUITS FRUrrs - Ingredients. 1I kg. (2{ lb., kg. (2-!lb., 99cups) cups)sieved Ingredients. sieved Hour, flour, 25 25g.g.(1(IOZ., oz., yeast, 500 cake) yeast, (generous 1I lb.) 500 g.g. (generous 1I cake) lb.)fresh freshor pears, ordried driedpears, (9 oz.) 250 g.g. (9 fresh or oz.) fresh or dried dried apples, 250 apples,250 250 g.g.(9(9oz.) prunes, oz.) prunes, (9 oz.) g. (9 250 g. oz.\ dried dried figs, (9oz.) figs,250 250g.g.(9 peaches ,125 250 (4LOZ., oz.) peaches, 125g.g.(4! oz, (U.S. pitted) cup) stoned stoned (U.S. pitred) dates, i* cup) dates, 250 250 g.g.(9(9 OZ., oz., Itl] cups) cups) (4 OZ., seedless raisins, raisins, 100 g. (4 100 g. oz., tJ cup) seedless cup)chopped choppedcitron citroncandied candied peel, 50 (2 OZ., 50 g.g. (2 oz., t* cup) cup) chopped peel, chopped angelica, angelica, 100 l@ g.g. (4(4 OZ., oz., cup) whole whole almonds, g. (4 (4 OZ., almonds, 100 100 g. ~3 cup) oz., if,cup) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 100g.g. (4 OZ., oz., 1I cup) cup) shelled shelled walnuts, (4 walnuts, 50 50 g.g. (2e OZ., oz., t{ cup) cup) each each of of lemon and and orange orange rind julienne strips, rind eut lemon cut into into julienne (2 oz.) strips, 50 50 g.g. (2 oz.) star anise, pinch of anise, aa pinch star of spices, spices,and (3 tableand 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) kirsch. kirsch. spoons) Method, Cook Cook the pears, apples, the pears, Method. prunes, peaches apples, prunes, peaches and and figs figs in water, w_ater, keeping keeping them in them rather rather firm. firm. Make Make the the dough, dough, using using yeast and flour and and yeast juice in the Hour and moistening with with the the juice in which wtrlctr the ttre fruit was was cooked. cooked. Leave the fruit the dough dough to rise for to rise for 22 hours. hours. well-drained fruit to Add the weU-drained to the the risen risen dough dough and and mix mix weIl. well. Add the the raisins, raisins, almonds, hazelnuts, Add hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, dates, dates. citron citron candied peel, peel, angelica, angelica, orange candied orange and and lemon lemon peel, peel, anise anise and and spices. Moisten with with kirsch and blend weIl. well. Divide the paste paste into 200-g. Oivide (7-oz.) pieces, shape 200-9. (7-oz.) shape them them into into small loaves, brush with water and and bake bake in in aa slow slbw oyen oven for for lf, li hours. p.llN pound Genoa cake. PAIN DE GÊNES GBNES -- Pound 500 (lg OZ., g. (18 500 g. oz., 31 3] cups) cups) blanched almonds to aa powder and Il and add add 325 g. (12 (12 OZ., 325 g. oz.,-ll cups) sugar. Stir with a wooden spoon and and add add 55 eggs eggs one one by by one. Stir the mixture for for l0 10 minutes and (4 oz., and add add 100 g. (4 lA0 g. oz-., s_cant seant cup) cornflour, a little little powdered vanilla, 1I ta6lespoon tablespoon Curaçao and and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., l0 10 tablespoons) melted butter, p-u1aea9 melted butter, lifting batter to aerate aerate it. Pour the the mixture into into buttered buttered lifting the the batter in aa moderate moderate oyen. cake tins tins lined Iined with with buttered buttered paper. paper. Bake Bake in cake oven. Genoa cake cake will will keep well weil for for 55 or 66 days. days. Genoa Another method method is is to pound pound 375 OZ., generous generous 1| 1~ Another 375 g. (13 oz, cupd) cups) fine fine sugar sugar in in aa mortar mortar with 6 eggs eggs and and 22 drops drops bittei bitter almond frothy, add add 65 65 [.1Ztor., g. (2~ OZ., almond essence. essence. When When the the mixture mixture isis frothy, l0 10tablespoons) tablespoons) sieved sieved flour flour and and 125 125 g. g. ($o2., (~oz., 99 tablespoons) tablespoons) Pour the the mixture mixture into into lined lined and and melted butter. butter. Blend Blend well. weil. Pour melted buttered cake cake tins tins and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. buttered It kg. kg. (3* (3-!- lb., lb., 13 13 KuJich @ussian (Russian Easter Easter cake) cake) -- Place Place l] Kulich cups) flour flour in in aa warm wann bowl bowl and and make make aa well weil in in the the centre. centre. cups) Into this this pour pour 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l OZ., 1cake) cake) yeast yeast dissolved dissolved in in aa little little Into wann milk milk and and mixed mixed with with aa little Ettle flour flour to to make make aa leaven. leaven. wann Work the the yeast yeast mixture mixture into into the the flour, flour, cover coyer the the bowl bowl and and Work stand the the dough dough to to rise rise in in aa warm wann place place for for lf, li hours. hours. stand

Giteau SaintH onor6 ( Lar ous sel Gâteau Saint-Honoré (Larousse)

Sablis, Sacristains, Sacristains, Saint-Honoré, Saint-Honori, Saint-James, Saint-James. SaintSaintSablés, Michel, Savarin, Savarin, Savarin Savarin àd la crime, Savarin la crème, Savarin aux aux cerises, cerises, Michel, Schaleth àd lajuive, ln juive, Shortbread, Solilime, Souvarov, Spdculos, Sehaleth Shor/bread, Solilème, Souvarov, Spéculos, Strizel, St Strudel, Sultane. ru dei, Sultane. Strizel, Tarte alsacienne, alsacienne, Tarte Tarte auxfruits aux fruits àh l'allemande, I'allemande, Tarte Tarte aux aux Tarte I'anglaise, Tarte Tarte aux aux fruits, Tarte des des demoiselles fruits àd l'anglaise, demoiselles fruits, Tarte fruits Tatin, Tarte Tarte au au riz, riz, Tarte Tarte àd la la rhubarbe, rhubarbe, Tartelelles, Tartelettes, Tôt-fai/, T6t-fait, Ta/in, Trois-frires. Trois-frères. Vacherin, Victoria Victoria cake. cake. Vacherin, Almond cake cake -- See See ALMONO. ALMOND. Almond (American pastry) Angel cake (American pastry) -- Whisk Whisk 8 8 egg egg whites whites stiffty, stiffiy, Angel cake add teaspoon cream cream of of tartar tartar dissolved dissolved in in aa little little water, water. add 1I teaspoon and275 (10 OZ., oz., lf cups) sugar. sugar. and 275 g. g. (10 li cups) Fold 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) sifted sifted flour flour and and aa few few drops g. (a (4 OZ., Fold in in 100 vanilla or l]1t teaspoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. vanilla essence essence or teaspoons vanilla-flavoured Whisk unbuttered angel cake cike Whisk lightly, lightly, and and pour pour into into aa large, large, unbuttered pan pan with with aa centre centre tube. tube. Bake Gas Mark moderate oven oyen (160'C (160°C.,.,325oF., 325°F., Gas Mark 3) 3) for for Bake in in aa moderate 45 cake rack 45 minutes minutes to to I1 hour. hour. Invert Invert the the tin tin on on aa cake rack and and cool taking before out of of the the mould. mould. before taking the the cake cake out Apple Apple cake cake -- See See APPLE. APPLE. Christmas yule yule log. log. n0crm BÛCHE DE DE NoEL NOËL -- Symbolic Symbolic cake sold by _ Christmas French French confectioners confectioners at at Christmas Christmas time. time. It It is is made made of Genoese Genoese cake cake (see (see GENOESE) GENOESE) spread spread with with various various creams, crea ms, usually butter cream. cream. ItIt isis rolled rolled into into the the shape of ofaa log log and usually aa butter decorated decorated by by icing icing the the cake cake with with lengthwise lengthwise strips strips of of cliocochocolate butter cream cream to to represent represent the the bark bark ofthe of the log. log. late or or coffee coffee butter At another symbolic symbolic cake cake is is made made in in France. France. It At Christmas Christmas another isis shaped shaped like like aa wooden wood en shoe, shoe, made made of of nougat nougat and and decorated decora ted with withpetits petitsfozrs fours (q.v.). (q.v.). Easter Easter cakg cake, German German (Ostertorte) (Ostertorte) -- Make Make aa sponge sponge cake cake of 125 125 g.(4+ g. (4! oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sifted sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. dough of 99ugtr (4 (4 oz.,l OZ., t cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 55 eggs eggs (yolks (yolks and and whites whites separated) separated) and and 100 100g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., *1 cup) cup) butter. butter. Bake Gas Mark Mark Bakeininaamoderately moderately hot hot oven oyen (190.C., (190°C., 375.F., 375°F., Gas 5) 5) for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn the the cake cake out out of of the the mould. mould, allow allow to to cool, cool, and and cut eut itit across across into into halves. halves. Spread Spread one one half half with with coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter butter cream. cream. Place Place the the halves halves totogether ICING). gether and and ice ice the the cake cake with with Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING). Decorate Oecorate with with aa border border of of butter butter cream cream piped piped through through aa forcing-bag of forcing-bagand andwith withchocolate chocolateeggs, eggs,each eachsitting sittingon onaaneit nestof the thesame samecream. cream.InInthe thecentre centreofofthe thecake cakeplace placeaachick chick made made 178 178

CAKE CAKE It may centre centre and and stir. stiLl! maybe benecessary necessary tota add add more mOTeflour flour totomake make aa firm Form the the paste into into aa ball, bail, wrap wrap in in aa cloth c10th and and finn paste. paste. Form leave add 12 12 g.e g. (t oz.) oz.) powdered powdered yeast yeast leave to ta prove. prove. After After I1hour add (dried used without without moistening) moistening) and and (dried chemical chemical yeast yeast which which isis used knead knead vigorously. vigorously. (18 g. 4| sieved oz., cups) Another Another method method isis to to mix mix 500 500 g. (18 OZ., cups) sieved bread 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., OZ., l]lJ cups) cups) honey, honey, leave to to stand, stand. brcad flour flour and and 500

Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2l 2J cups) cups) half-melted half-melted butter, butter, l0 10 eggs, 250 250g.g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and aa pinch pinch ofsalt. of salt. Beat the no longer longer sticky stickyand and comes cornes away away cleanly cleanly themixture mixture until untîl itit isis no

'

from from the the bowl. bowl. Gradually Gradually work work in in I1ke. kg. QIIb.,9 (2l lb., 9 cups) cups) flour, flour, beating beating the the dough dough lightly lightly until \lntil itit isis thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., l]I! cups) cups) each each of of cleaned c1eaned sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Leave Leave the the dough dough to to rise fisc again again in in aa wann warm place. place. When When well weIl risen, risen, turn turn itit onto onto aa floured floured table, table, keeping aa small small piece piece to to decorate of the dough into into aa large large decorate the tbe cake. cake. Make Make the the rest rest of well-buttered baking tin. ball in alarge, a bail and and place place in Roll long, wide wide Roll out out the the reserved dough dough and cut eut itil into long, strips. strips. Twist Twist the the strips and and decorate decorate the the cake cake with with them. them. Allow ta rise rise again again for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with aa Allow the the cake cake to mixture of egg egg yolk yolk and and sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle chopped chopped almonds almonds on on mixture of top, in aa hot hot oven. aven. top, and and bake bake in ItJt isis customary cuslOmary in in Russia Russia to to ice icc and and decorate decorate the the top top of of the [he cake. cake. Maids Maids of of honou. honour. DEMoIsELLES DEMOISELLES D'HoNNEURn'HONNEUR - The The recipe recipe for for these in England, was was these cakes, cakes, which which enjoyed enjoyed a great great reputation reputatÎon in for for a long long time time kept kept secret. History relates relates that Anne Anne Boleyn, then of honour honour at al the English Court, first firsl made made these then a maid of pleasing King cakes in the hope hope of ofp!easing King Henry Henry VIII Vlll who who was fond cakes in of of his his food. King King Henry, Henry, finding finding them excellent, excellent, called them 'maids of honour'. honour', which has been their name ever since. since. 'maids of The to have have been been The secret secret recipe for for the the cakes cakes was was said said to of bought bought for f,1000. flOOO. Maids of honour were were the the speciality of Richmond Rjchmond (Surrey), where a confectioner confeclioner claimed to to have the secret recipe, and to ta make make the only true maids of honour, honour, country. all parts of the country. which he sent out daily to ail of light putr pastry, with a filling tans oflight filling The cakes are little tarts and lemon. made of egg, ground almonds and paste for is LA MEcQLJE Mecca MecC1l cakes. PAINS PA1NS DE DE LA MECQUE -- The paste for these these is as Chou paste the same as poste (see CHOU). shape of in the the sh the paste Force the Force paste through a pastry-bag in ape of egg, metal baking sheet. Brush with beaten egg, little eggs onto aa me!al eggs ooto hot aven. oven. and bake in aa hot sprinkle with granulated sugar and prepared as follows: as follows: is prepared cake whîch which tS Phur cake -- English cake Phml and (18 oz., until creamy, creamy, and g. (18 2| cups) butter butter until oz., 21 500 g. Soften 500 Soften (18 oz., sugar. g. (18 oz., 2{ cups) sugar. Add 500 g. whisk until it turns white. Add or 99 one, 88 or add, one one by one. and add, minutes, and for aa few few minutes, Whisk again again for Whisk (9 oz., l| cups) g. (9 oz., I! 250 g. Add 250 all the the time. time. Add whisking ail eggs, whisking eggs, (7 oz., g. (7 (lemon and 200 g. oz., orange), 20{) and orange), chopped candied candied peel (lemon chopped (5 oz., g. (5 cup) best best oz., 1I cup) raisins, 150 g. stoned (U.S. pitted) raisins, lf cups) sloned li (5 oz" g. (5 cup) currants. currants. oz., 1I cup) and 150 150 g. sultanas and sultanas mixed with with 1ljt teatea(18 oz., sifted flour flour mixed cups) sÎfted o2.,4| Add 500 500 g. (18 4 ~ cups) Add and tI dl. dl. rind of21emons of 2 lemons aod the grated rind spoons baking powder; the spoons (3 tablespoons, rum. scant { cup) rum. tablespoons, scan! (3 cm. paper, so extends 44 cm. so Ihat that ilit extends cake-tin with greased paper, Line aa cake-tin LÎne into the the mixture into (l] inches) Pour the the mixture of the the tin. tin. Pour above the inches) above the rim of (I-!Bake in in aa fill ilit over over two-thirds. two-thirds. Bake to fiH not 10 taking care care not tin, taking tin, hour. after 1I hour. heat after reducing heat hours, reducing for J3 104 to 4 hours, moderate aven oven for moderate sponge' Savoy spnngewrth Savoy mould with charlotte mould Fill aa charlotte Punch cake cake -- Fil! PlHlcb turn the cake. cake, tum (see SPONGE Bake the CAKES). Bake SPONGE CAKES). cake mixture mixture (see cake days. for two two days. and leave leave for out, and out, thickness' of equal equal thickness, slices of horizontal sUces three horizontal cake into into thrce Cut the cake Clltthe jam. Decoratc Decorate with with apricot jam. with apricot and caver cover with in rum rum and them in soak soak them in the the oyen. oven. finish in and finish meringue and meringue (4 OZ., cup) oz., ,1* cup) 100 g.g. (4 punch cake. llil.4;ix 100 cake. Mix the punch Meringue for Meringue for the cup) scant JI cup) dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant finely sieved apricot jam, sieved apricot finely iam, 1-* dl. (a oz., fine sugar. cup) fine sugar. oz., i-I cup) 100 g.g. (4 rum, 1I tablespoon Curaçao, Curagao, 100 rum, whites. egg whiles. Fold in in 66 stiffiy beaten egg Fold pArN D'ÉPICE for be used used for should be Rye Rour flour should o'6plce -- Rye Spice cake. cake. PAfN not used' ltIt isis not flour can can be be used. wheat flour loaf, but ordinary wheat but ordinary spicod Joaf, cake. quality honey this cake. for this honey for necessary 10 to use use best best qua!ity necessary nearly 10 to boiling point (18oz., honey nearly cups) honey oz., I!1] cups) Heat 500 500 g.g. (18 Heat 4! cups) sieved Put 500 500 g. ((18 scum. Put and remove remove the the scum. and 18 oz, 4-!pour the honey honey into a well in the bowl, pour flour into into aa bowl, bread flour bread

and 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz', oz., It and knead knead as as described described above, a bove. adding adding 100 cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 12 12 g.Q g. (1 oz.) oz.) dried dried yeast, yeasl, used uscd as as indicated indicated above, baking powder, powder, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., I cup) above, l|l~ teaspoons baking tableblanched, 25 g. g. (l (! oz.,ll OZ., blanched, dried and and chopped chopped almonds, almonds, 25 spoons) spoons) each each of of chopped chopped candied candied orange orange and and lemon lemon peel. peel. g. The be added addcd to ta this th is dough: d ough: l0 lOg. The following following can can also also be $ oz,') oz.) aniseed, anisced, aa pinch pinch of of cinnamon, cinnamon, aa pinch of of powdered powdered cloves, and I tablespoon and! tablespoon grated gratcd or or chopped lemon lemon or or orange orange peel. peel. Roll to the the desired desired thickness lhickness and and put put itil on on Roll out out either either dough dough to aa buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, or or into lnto baking tins. tins. Bake Bake in in aa modermoderate As soon soon as as the the cake cake is Îs cooked brush brush the the surface surface ate oven. oyen. As with with milk milk sweetened swectened with wilh sugar sugar (it (it should should be be like like a a thick thick syrup) few seconds seconds in in the the oven. oyen. The The milk milk can can syrup) and and leave leave for for aa few (see be be replaced replaced by by sugar syrup, cooked cooked to to aa thread thread (see SUGAR). SUGAR). Twelfth-Night Twelftb-Night cakes. cArrnux DEs DES RoE ROIS -- The The custom custom of of baking baking Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cakes cakes is is still still observed observed and and the the celecelebration bration that that takes takes place place in in most mos! French French homes homes when when the the Twelfth-Night cake is eaten, eaten, is is a a relic relie of of the the pagan feast fcast cake is called the Basilinda. The Îs given to to the the called the The name name phoebe which whîch is bean or symbolic symbolic favour favour baked baked in the the cake, cake, is is believed to to be be aa bean or word iphibe corruption corruption of of the the word éphèbe 'a 'a son son of of the the house' house' given given by by under the who, hidden child the the Romans Romans to to the t he ch ild who, hidden under the table, table, pointed poin ted piece which which held guest chosen out the chosen to out the guest to receive receive the the piece held the the phoebe. phnebe. vigorously was vigorously ceremonial was In the seventeenth century the Jn the seventeenth the ceremonial attention Saint-Germain, but attacked by the priests anacked by the priests of Saint-Germain, but attention this to which which this to the excesses ta much earlier earlier 10 drawn much had the excesses had been been drawn quotes aa passage from from aa Pasquier quotes custom could could give rise. Pasquier custom the to the Neargorgus, which refers ta by Thomas Neargorgus, manuscript by manuscript festival: festival: lot and clect by lot elect aa king by dine Ihen, then, and to dine come IOgether together to .'Many Many come he himself. Next, he ministers for for himseJf. king chooses chooses ministers This king vote. This or vote. or celebrations days, the the celebrations for several several days, lasts for feast which which lasts opens the the feast opens purses Idt, left, and and the the empty purses are only only empty there are continuing until until there contînuing paid. come ta to be be paid. creditors come creditors follow their their example. They, haste to to follow make haste 'Their sons sons then then make 'Their with banquets either with sumptuous banquets and hold hold sumptuous king and too, eJecl elect aa king tao, learning parents' expense, thereby learning expense, thereby or at at theîr their parents' stolen money, money, or stolen time. and the the same same time. at one larceny at one and luxury and and larceny luxury head of the family, the good the head 'Finally, on of the same day, the on the the same 'Finally, means forth, according to his means master, causes causes ro to be be brought forth, master, has been guests, aa cake in which has been cake in his guesls, and the number of of his the number and He cuts cuts the the as aa token. token. He must serve serve as coin which which must hidden aa silver silver coin hidden his family are members members of of his pieces as as there there are as many many pieces cake into into as cake piece. At time, he At the the same same lime, gives each his piece. present and one his and gives each one and for the Virgin and one for the Virgin infant Jesus, Jesus, one for the the infant one for keeps back back one gives these to the the these ta he then names he then gives whose names Magi, inin whose one for the the Magi, one piece containing silver the silver containing the poor. Whosoever the piece receives the Whosoever receives poor. joy.' for joy.' shout for all the the guests shout and aU coin is recognised as king, and of the the " distribution of attending the distribution Although the ceremonial attending to what itit used used lO from what rather different different l'rom and rather now shorter shorter and cake isis now cake queenchosen at the the chosen at king or or queen that Ihe the king demands that custom still still demands be, custom be, symbolic give aadinner-party at whîch which the thesymbolic dinner-party al feastshould in tum turn give should in [east served. cake isisserved. cake In Paris Paris and and France. Jn of France. The cake varies in different regions of (q.v.)' In galette (q.v,), pastry galelle In the ile-de-France the cake is a flaky pastry yeast dough, similar to to dough, similal from yeast made from the cake cake isis made the south south the the like aacrown. crown. shaped like and shaped dough, and brioche dough, brioche (18 OZ., 4I oz., 41 500 g. (18 Place 500 cake. Place Twelfth-Night cake. BordeauxTwelfth-Night Bordeaux yeast and and oz.) yeast with 20 20g.e.G oz.) table with on the the table ringon cups) Rour flour ininaa ring cups)

179 179

CAKE RACK RACK CAKE

lj

teaspoons salt salt inin the themiddle. middle.Knead Kneadthe dough, adding thedough, adding li teaspoons wholeeggs, eggs, one grated rind one by byone, one,grated rind of of1I lemon, lemon,200 2Ng.g. 88 whole (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g.(7 oz.,scant cup) softened (7 oz., scant cup) sugar, and 200 g. (7 oz., scant cup) softened butter. Mix Mix these theseingredients ingredients thoroughly. thoroughly. Leave Leave the thedough, dough, butter. whichshould should be limp, totorise belimp, rise ininaawarm place overnight. warm place overnight. which Next day, day, knock knock down down the thedough doughasasfor Brioche dough dough(see Next for Brioche (see DOUGH), divide parts each divide into intoequal equal parts each shaped shapedinto into aacrown, crown, DOUGH), place on on buttered paperand buttered paper andleave leaveto to rise rise inin aa warm warm cupcupplace board. Leave Leave the crowns to the crowns to cool cool and and brush with beaten brush with beaten egg. egg. board. Decorate with with slices slices of of citron citron and and crystallised crystallised sugar, sugar, and and Decorate in aa moderate bake in moderate oyen. oven. bake Another method method isis to yeastdough to make make aa yeast dough of of 250 250 g.g. Another (9 oz., o2.,2| cups) sieved sieved flour flour and and 20 20 g.e. (i yeast. Add oz.) yeast. Add G oz.) (9 2i cups) water, to to make make the dough limp, limp, and the dougb and leave leave itit to to rise rise in in aawarrn warm water, place. place. Make aa weil well in in the (2+ lb., the centre centre of of 1I kg. kg. (2i 1b.,9 cups) sieved sieved Make 9 cups) flour, and and add add 88 whole whole eggs and aa pinch pinch of eggs and of salt. salt. Make Make aa lukelukeflour, wann syrup (9 oz., syrup with with 250 g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, the the warm grated rinds rinds of of 22 lemons lemons and and 22 oranges, (|-pint, 1l|oranges, aa 3-dl. 3-dl. (t-pint, grated tcup) mixture mixture of of orange-flower orange-flower water, water, water water and and rum, rum, and and stir stir cup) gently. Add Add to to the other ingredients ingredients in the other in the gradually well, mix the weil, mix gradually gently. with the the flour flour and and when when weil well blended blended add yeast dough. add the the yeast dough. with Mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Mix Place the the dough dough in in aa fioured floured bowl, bowf leaving leaving itit in in aa warm warm Place plaoe to to rise. rise. Knock Knock down down the the dough dough and and then then shape shape itit into into aa place crown on on aa floured floured table. Place the table. Place the crown crown on on aa baking baking sheet sheet crown covered with paper and with buttered buttered paper and decorate decorate the top with pieces the top with pieces covered of citron. citron. Leave Leave to to rise. rise. Brush Brush the yolk and the cake cake with with egg egg yolk and of a a (150"C., bake in in aa cool cool oyen oven (l50 300oF., Gas Mark Mark 2) 2) for for 11{t bake C., 300 F., Gas hours. hours. Limoux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. This This cake, cake, also also in in the the shape shape of of Limoux crown, is is made made from from dough dough similar similar to to that that used used for for the the aa crown, Bordeaux Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake, cake, but but isis richly richly decorated decorated with with Bordeaux candied citron. citron. candied Wedding cake. GÂTEAU cArnlu DE DE NOCE Nocts -- In In England England the the centrecentreWedding cake. piece of of the wedding reception is the the wedding wedding cake. cake. This This piece the wedding reception is cake, made made in or 33 tiers, tiers, is is aa symbol symbol rather rather than aa delicacy; cake, in 22 or a down from from one century century to to the the next. a tradition tradition handed handed down next. The cake must as each guest is wedding guest given a slice and is given cake must be be large large as each wedding pieces are sent sent in absent relations and boxes to and pieces are in decorated decorated boxes to absent friends. friends. The (211b.,4+ kg. (2i cups) butter, 1I kg. The ingredients ingredients are: are: I1 kg. lb., 4t cups) (2* (18 oz., g. (18 ground al4| cups) oz., 4t cups) ground (2t lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 5CI 500 g. monds g. (18 3tcups) monds or or pounded pounded almonds, almonds, 500 g. (18 oz., 3t cups) chopped candied candied peel, peel, 5@ 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz .. 3l 3t cups) cu ps) each each of of stoned stoned (U.S. (U. S. pitted) lf kg. (2* pitted) raisins, raisins, sultanas sultanas and and currants, currants, It (2i lb., lb., lIIl cups) flour flour sieved sieved with with 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons baking baking powder, powder, 16 16 to to 18 whole 15 g.(:* whole eggs, eggs, according according to to size, size, 15 g. (t o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) allspice, allspice, I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * t cup) cup) rum. rum. Line Line the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of three three graduated graduated round round cake tins with buttered buttered paper paper and and fill fil! with with the the mixture. mixture. Bake Bake in in a cool oven oyen (150'C., (l50 a C., 300'F., 300 a F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 2). 2). Test Test with with a a skewer after 33 hours, hours, and and then then at at half-hourly half-hourly intervals intervals until untiJ cooked. The The cake cake should should be be made made several severa! days days before before decorating decorating it, it, to to give give the the mixture mixture time time to to settle. settle. Trim Trim each each tier tier so so that that itit is is flat and round, round, then then spread spread with with apricot apricot jam jam and cover coYer flat and completely completely with with aa layer layer of of almond almond paste, paste, *l cm. cm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick. y'.f,tar 24 Level Levcl the the tops tops of of the the tiers tiers with with aa rolling-pin. rolling-pin. After 24 hours, hours, ice ice each each tier, tier, covering covering all al! parts parts which which will will be be visible visible when when they they are are put put on on top top of of one one another. another. Arrange Arrange the the tiers tiers on on aa low low stand. stand. Decorate Decorate the the cake cake with with motifs motifs made made by by forcing forcing Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) lCING) through through aa piping-bag, piping-bag, and and place place an an ornamental omamental motif motif or or spray spray of of flowers flowers on on the the top top tier. tier.

CALABASH GOURD GOURD ororBOTTLE BOTTLEGOURD. GOURD.CALEBASSE CALABASH cALEBASsEFruitof ofthe thecalabash calabashtree treeof whichseveral ofwhich severalspecies speciesare Fruit known. areknown. Onespecies species has haslong long leaves leavesand greenshell andaahard hardgreen shellwith withacid One acid whitepulp pulpinside, inside, which which isismade madeinto intoaasyrup syrupinintropical white tropical Americaand andthe theWest WestIndies. Indies.The gourdsare Thegourds aremade America madeinto into Calabash pipes pipes (imported (imported from fromSouth South Africa), Africa), drinking Calabash drinking vesselsand andother otherarticles. articles. vessels

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Calappa Calappa

Calamary Calamary

(Squid). CALMAR CALAMARY (Squid). cALMAR -- Common Common name name for for certain certain varieties of of cephalopoda, which varieties which have have elongated elongated bodies, bodies, and and arrns or or tentacles with arrns with suckers suckers on on the the tips. tips. They They are are found found mainly in in mid-ocean depths depths or mainly or far far out out to to sea, sea, but but come come to to near the the coasts. coasts. spawn near Like cuttlefish, cuttlefish, calamary Like calamary have have aa bag bag situated situated near near the the heart which which contains contains aa dark heart dark inky inky liquid tiquid used painting used in in painting the name of sepia. under the This mollusc is considered considered aa great delicacy delicacy in tbe the MediterMediterranean ranean region. region. Calamaries in (in their in su su tinta tinta (in their ink) ink) isis aa Spanish speciali ty. speciality. Stuffd calamary (squid) (squid) àI la marseillaise. Stuffed marseillalse. CALMAR clrum FARCI rmcr ÀA LA MARSETLLATSE MARSEILLAISE -- Take 4 calamaries, calamaries, rem ove the remove the black ink bag, bag, the the cranial cranial cartilage and and the the tentacles. Wash the the body sacs and place them flat Hat on aa clotho cloth. Fry a a finely chopped onion onion in aa few few tablespoons oil, oil, add the finely chopped tentacles and 22 or 3 chopped chopped tomatoes. Season Season and and fry fry together. Soak Soak a piece of of French French bread in milk, squeeze it it out and and add add it it to to the the pan pan with 2 2 garlic garlic cloyes cloves chopped chopped with with parsley. parsley. Blend Blend well, weil, moisten moi sten with witb 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) hot water, add 2 or 3 egg yolks and and remove from the the heat. heat. Fill Fill the the calamaries calamaries three-quarters full with the the resulting resulting forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should be fairly thick. Sew them up and put them them one one by by one into a pan with some sorne oil. up separately aa finely finely chopped onion and add a bay bay leaf leaf Fry separately and aa crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Blend Blend in I1 tablespoon tablespoon flour and and and moisten moisten with with I1 glass glass each each of of white white wine and hot hot water. SeaSeason son with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and simmer for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain this sauce sauce over over the the calamaries, calamaries, sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs this and oil oil and and gently gently brown brown the the top. top. and CALAPPA (Box (Box crab). crab). cALAppE CALAPPE (coe (cOQ or DE uBn) MER) CALAPPA which has has aa certain certain similarity similarity to to the the crab. crab. which

CAXE CAKE RACK RACK or or TRAY. TRA Y. cRTLLEGRILLE - Flat Flat tray, tra y, made made from f rom wirewiremesh, mesh, on on which which cakes cakes are are put put to to cool cool when when they they are are taken taken from from the the oven. oyen.

--

Shellfish Shellfish

CALEFACTION. c,c,rfracfloN CALÉFACTION - Action of warming. warming. CALEFACTION. - Action of Phenomenon whereby whereby aa drop drop of of water water hitting hitting aa very very hot hot Phenomenon 180 180

CAMEL CAMEL surface takes takes on a a spheroid spheroid shape shape and and does does not not dissipate dissipate surfac€ immediately because because of of the the layer layer of of steam steam which which seals seals it off. immediately CALF. VEAU VEAU -- See See also also VEAL. VEAL. CALF. Calves' brains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. \1 EA TS. Calves'brainsCalf's crow. crow. FRAISE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Membrane Membrane which which covers covers the the Calf's

intestines of of the the calf. calf. This This may may be be cooked cooked in in various various ways ways (see (see intestines

OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS MEATS Calf's CalFs rnesentery-) mesentery.) OFFAL However the the crow crow is is to to be be prepared, prepared, itit must must first first be be cooked However in aa flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock, stock, as for Calf's CalFs head head (see below). below). in Calf's eors. ears. oREILLEs OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Calf's Calf's ears must must be well Calf's and blanched blanched before before use. use. (See OFFAL OFFAL or VARIVARIc1eaned and cleaned MEATS.) ETY MEATS.) Calf's feet. feet. ptnps PIEDS DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Blanch and cook the feet feet in Calf's f1our-and-water stock, stock, llke like Calfs head. head. (See (See OFFAL OFF AL or a flour-and-water VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.)

Cambaceres I 753- I E24) Cambacérès ((1753-1824)

(himself compiling compiling the Cambac6rbs Cambacérès prepared his dinners (himself the menus) with meticulous care menus) with care and good taste. tas te. In In his Mimoires Mémoires 'During the Congress of Lun6ville, Bourienne tells us: us: 'During Congress of Lunéville, the mail coaches coaches were that mail first consul, on first consul, on being being informed informed that delicacies for the table carrying aa lot of of goods, carrying goods, in particular particular delicacies gave an persons, gave an order order that of prominent persons, of that henceforward That postal nothing but but despatches. That carry nothing were to to carry services were postal services where 1 was into the salon, where came into the salon, Cambacerds came evening, Cambacérès evening, the alone first consul, who was already laughing at the al one with the fust "Well, what what can colleague. "Weil, his colleague. causd to to his embarrassment caused "I have come to you want have come to ask want at at this hour, Cambacérès Cambac6ris?" this hour, you 7" "1 you have given given the the in the the order you to make one one exception in you to friends with with post. How do you expect us us to make friends director of post. director give them You know know people if elegant ddishes? if we we can can't them elegant people 't give ishes 7 You great extent, yourself that, it isis at at one's one's table that that one extent, it that, to to aa great yourself great deal, him deal, called called him governs." The first laughed aa great first consul consul laughed governs." glutton and him on on the the shoulder shoulder and finished finished by by slapping slapping him aa glutton poor Cambacérès, and my poor Cambacerds, and "Console yourself, my and saying, saying, "Console and continue to carry will continue to carry mail coaches coaches will The mail angry. The don't be be angry. don't your Mayence p&tis, your your Strasbourg Mayence Strasbourg pâtés, trufled turkeys, your your trufHed your partridges.'" partridges."' and your hams and

head. rBrs TÊTE DE DE VEAU VEAU - Calf's head head is is blanched, Calf's head.

cooked in in a flour-and-water ftour-and-water stock stock and served served à d la vinaigrette. cooked (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Calf's heafr. heart. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU - All Ali the the recipes recipes for calf's which may be cooked kidneys are suitable for calf's heart, which (See OFFAL whole, braised, pot pot roasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. (See OFFAL or whole, VARIETY MEATS.) VARTETY Calf's kidneys kidneys -- See OFFAL or VARIETY Calf's VARIETY MEATS. See OFFAL Calf's liver liverSee OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. Calfns - See RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - Considered Considered the most Calves' sweetbreads. RIS delicate of of the white offal meats. They can be cooked whole, sliced in médaillons, midaillons, or in various other ways. (See OFFAL VARIETY MEATS.) or VARIETY udder. TÉTINE DE vEAU VEAU - Mostly in Jewish Mostly used used in rfril{s DE Calf's udder. taking the place of cookery, taking of bacon bacon fat. After being soaked in cold water and and blanched, the udder can be braised.

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CALORIE small calorie calorie is the amount of of CALORIE-- Unit of heat. The small

heat necessary necessary to g. of The large l'C. The large raise 1I g. of water water by by 1°C. heat to raise calorie The calorie is used as aa calorie is equal to to 1000 smalJ small calories. calories. The

unit heat and and energy-producing unit in in expressing expressing the the heat energy-producing qualities of food. food. Food substances are the combination combination of results produced by the energy borrowed from solar radiations of radiations -- the source of ail which isis effected all energy On decomposition, which energy on on earth. earth. On first by digestion and they and then by the transformations transformations which they undergo lost restore lost substances restore undergo in in our our organism, organism, these these substances energy which can be released. the heat heat released. be measured by by the Experiments have coto establish the cohave enabled scientists to establish the enabled scientists efficients fats and and released by albuminoids, fats of calories calories released by albuminoids, efficients of carbohydrates. Knowledge of aa food food Knowledge of of the the composition composition of product possible to product makes its value value in in energy, energy, makes itit possible to calculate calculate its measured in calories. These and figures are are only approximate and These figures only approximate average, not be drawn from from and too be drawn average, and too rigid rigid conclusions conclusions should should not them them.. Nutritional called diets called Nutritional experts have devised devised slimming slimming diets experts have 'Iow-calorie 'low-calorie diets' of content of the calorie calorie content on the based entirely entirelv on diets' based foods. foods.

CHEESE. de) -- See See CHEESE. CAMBRAI (Boulette @oulette de)

or two two with one one or mammals with Large mammals CAMEL. cHAMEAU - Large CAMEL. CHAMEAU and the the as dromedaries dromedaries and are known known as former are The former humps. The humps. Israelites to eat to eat the Israelites forbade the Moses forbade latter as as bactriaos. bactrians. Moses latter edict, but but by this this edict, are not not bound bound by Arabs are The Arabs meat. The camel's meat. camel's young and meat isis tender. tender. and the the meat are young when they camels when they are only only eat eat camels regarded meat was was regarded camel's meat Gallien, camel's of Gallien, From the the time time of From was served served to to maintains that that itit was Aristophanes maintains favour. Aristophanes with with favour. praises it. it. and Aristotle Aristotle praises royalty, and royalty, parts most most are the the parts and the the stomach stomach are feet and The hump, hump, the the feet The milk isis excellent. excellent' Camel's miUc connoisseurs. Camel's appreciated by connoisseurs. appreciated by (Arab cooking). AU CHAMEAU cHAMEAU couscous AU cooking). COUSCOUS Camel couscotxt (Arab Carel couscous way, but substitute but substitute in the usual way, the usual couscous in - Prepare the couscous Prepare the (see COUSCOUS) COUSCOUS).. mutton (see young camel's for the the mutton meat for young camel's meat pimentc and TRANcHES aubergines TRANCHES and aubergines. with pimentos Camel Camel escalopes escdopes with iN butter SAUI6 in bUttCT ET AUBERGINES AI'BERGINES -_ Sauté POIVRONS ET AUX POIvRONS DE DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU AUX have which have from the sirloin, which the sirloin, meat taken taken from slices of camel camel meat slices of juice, sait, pepper and and spi spices. lemon juice, salt, pepper marinated in in oil, oil, lemon been ces. been marinated Put on on each each slice slice dish. Put on aa dish. and set set them them on Drain Drain the the slices slices and them in oil. Pour over over them oil. Pour aubergines sautéed saut6ed in two rounds of of aubergines two rounds juices of added 22 sweet sweet have been been added meat to which have to which the of the the meat the juices in oil; oil; 1l|t dl. dl. cooked in and cooked peeled, cut pimentos, peeled, into strips strips and cut into pimentos, (} pipint" l} cups) cups) tomato tomato pint, j-3 cup) dl. (t wine; 33 dl. (t({ pint, nt, li cup) white white wine; parsley. chopped parsley. garlic. Sprinkle with chopped pur6e; and Sprinkle with purée; little garlic. and aa little r.l PIEDS DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU ÀA LA vinaigrette. PIEDS Camel's feet àt lala vinaigrette. Camel's feet young camel and cook cook inin camel and feet of of aa young VINAIGRETTE Soak the the feet vTNATcRETTE -- Soak (see asfor for Calf'sleet Calf's feet (see in the way as the same same way aa white white court-bouillon court-bouillon in with serve with and serve Drain, and MEATS). Drain, OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). (seeSAUCE). Vinaigrette SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see non -- Marinate Marinate DE CHAMEAU CHAMEAU RÔTI FILET DE Roast fillet. FILET Roast camel's camel's fiUet. juice, salt, pepper and and spices. spices.ItIt salt, pepper the lemon juice, fillet with with oil, oil, lemon the fiUet

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CAL V ADOS -- Famous apple brandy the Normandy Normandy from the Famous apple brandy from CALVADOS region name. region of of the the same same name. CAMBACÉRÈS who duc de) de) -- Cambacérès Cambac6rbs who CAMBACERDS (Jean-Jacques, lJean-Jacqueq duc was Paris in in 1824 1824 in 1753 1753 and and diéd di&J at at Paris was born born at at Montpellier Montpellier in was after the appointed by Bonaparte after the was the the second second consul by Bonaparte consul appointed coup . Marco in his his diary, diary, wrote in coup d'état d'dtat Marco de de Saint-Hilaire Saint-Hilaire wrote 'Yesterday 'Yesterday 1I had table of of honour of admitted to to the the table had the the honour of being being admitted Consul four the four out of of the and 1I must must confess confess that that out Consul Cambacérès Cambac6rds and courses least sixteen sixteen or or courses - each which consisted consisted of of atat least each of of which eighteen quarter of had no no which 1I had dishes, and and about about aa quarter of which eighteen dishes, chance apwould have have been been apchance of of tasting single one one would tasting - every every single proved proved by gastronomical memory. memory. of gastronomical Lucullus or or Apicius, Apicius, of by Lucullus Under made enormous in France France has has made enornous Under the the Republic, Republic, cuisine cuisine in steps proclaim itit to in the the worId.' world.' forward, and to be be the the best best in steps forward, and 1I proclaim

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181 l8l

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit can be larded with strips of larding bacon. Roast on a spit thesame sameway wayasasfor foraabeef beeffillet. fillet. ininthe Roastcamel's camel's hump. hump.BOSSE BossrDE DECHAMEAU cHAMEAURÔTIE n6rrr- - Only Only Roast thehump hump of youngcamel ofaavery veryyoung preparedininthis camel isisprepared thisway. way. the juice, salt, Marinate with with oil, oil,lemon lemon juice, pepperand salt,pepper andspices. spices. Marinate Roast inin the thesame sameway way asasfor for roast (See roast sirIoin sirloinofofbeef. beef.(See Roast BEEF, Roast Roast sirloin.) sirloin.)Serve Servewith gravy, and with its itsown owngravy, andwaterwaterBEEF, cress. cresso paunchài lala marocaine. Camel's paunch marocaine. VENTRE vnNtnr DE nECHAMEA cHe,uEnu Camel's U ÀA LA MARocArNe Marinate Z-kg.(4t-Ib.) (4+-lb.) piece piece of ofcamel's camel's LA MAROCAINE - - Marinate aa2-kg. paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, paunch, trimmed and tied with string, in oil, lemon juice, spices and and vegetables. vegetables. Brown Brown inin oil oil inin an an earthenware earthenware spices put 22 casserole and remove when itit isis browned brownedail all over. over. Put casserole and remove when sliced onions onions into into the the casserole casserole and and cook cook slowly slowly until until soft. soft. sliced peeled, seeded Add 44 peeled, seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes, peeled, tomatoes, 44 peeled, Add seeded and and diced diced sweet pimentos, 44crushed sweet pimentos, crushed cloyes garlic, cloves of ofgarlic, seeded and the quartered core the quartered core of of aa root root of fennel. Season of fennel. Seasonwith with salt salt and pepper. Cook and pepper. Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. and pour over Return the paunch the camel's camel's pa to the the casserole. casserole. Pour over Return unch to pint, scant dl. Ct(f pint, scant 22 cups) good stock. cups) good Add the stock. Add liquor the liquor itit 44 dl. from the the marinade, marinade, and garni of and aa bouquet bouquet garni parsley, thyme, of parsley, thyme, from bay and and zest zest of of orange. orange. Simmer Simmer for for 2t 2! hours. hours. Add Add 250 250 g.g. bay (9 oz., generous cup) oz., generous cup) rice rice after after removing removing the gorit. the bouquet bouquet garni. (9 Cook for for aa further further 25 25 minutes. minutes. Cook Take out out the the meat, meat, set set itit on on aa large large dish dish and and arrange arrange the the Take rice around around it. it. rice prepare with pilaf. PILAF Camel pilaf. rn,lr DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU -- Prepare with lean lean Camel camel's meat meat taken taken from from the the filIet fillet or or sirloin sirloin in in the the same same camel's way as as Mutton pilaf (see (see PILAF). Mutton pilaf PILAF). way Ragoftt of of camel camel with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. RAGOÛT nlco0r DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU Ragoût A LA re TOMATE roM,c,TE -- Prepare Prepare with with camel camel meat meat cut pieces and cut into into pieces and À juice, salt, marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, in in marinated the sa same way as as Ragoût Ragofit of (see of mutton mutton with with LOmato tomato sauce sauce (see me way the MUTTON). MUTTON). Camel's ribs ribs with with rice. rice. CÔTES cdrrs DE DE CHAMEAU cHAMEAU AU AU RIZ Rrz -- Trim Trim Camel's the ribs and and marinate marinate them juice, salt, them in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, the camel's camel's ribs pepper and spices. spices. pepper and Saut6 in butter, lard or oil, oil, drain drain them them of of fat, fat, and garnish and garnish Sauté in butter, lard or with PILAF). Serve Serve with with aa sauce sauce made with with with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF). the stock and and aa little little tablespoons stock the juices juices to to which which a a few few tablespoons tomato been added. added. tomato sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with garlic garlic have have been All of veal veal or AU methods methods of of preparation preparation applying applying to to ribs ribs of pork pork can can be be applied applied to to camel's camel's ribs. ribs.

Asa aslang slangexpression expressionininFrench Frenchthis thisword wordhas hastaken takenthe the As (belly). samemeaning meaningasasbedon bedon(belly). same

CANADA See SeeINTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY. CANADA Americancookery. cookery. American CANAPES- -The primary meaning Theprimary meaningofofthis thisword wordisisa aslice CANAPÉS slice ofcrustless crustlessbread, bread,cut cutininrectangular rectangular shapes, shapes,the of thesize sizeand and thickness of ofwhich whichvaries variesdepending depending on onthe thenature natureofofininthickness gredientstotobe puton beput onthem. them. gredients Canapis,which whichare arealso alsocalled calledcroûtons, cro0tons,are Canapés, aremade madeofof toastedor friedbread orfried bread and andcan caneither eitherbe bespread spreadwith toasted withvarious various mixtures or plain,depending leftplain, orleft dependingon onthe thenature natureofofthe mixtures thedishes dishes for which whichthey theyare aretotoserve serveasasan anaccompaniment. accompaniment. for Canapis, used used totoaccompany accompany winged game,are wingedgame, Canapés, arespread spread gratinforcemeat with àdgratin orsorne someother other forcemeat. forcemeat. with forcemeat or (hors-d'cuwes) - - These Canapes (hors-d'œuvres) These canapés aremade canaptisare Canapés madefrom from crustless bread, bread, home-made home-made bread bread or or brioche crustless briochedough, dough,and and garnished with are garnished with various various mixtures. mixtures. are Recipes for for this thistype typeof ofcanapé, canapl,sorne Recipes someof ofwhich whichare arereferred referred toas as canapés canapds àd lala russe, russe, will will be befound found inin the to thesection section entitled entitled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Canapes for for various various dishes dishes -- These These canapés Canapés canapis are arecut cut ininrecrectangles, and and browned. browned. They They are tangles, are mostly mostly described described asas crottons and and are are used used as as foundations foundations for croûtons for fried fried or grilled or grilled escalopes, noisettes, noisettes, tournedos, tournedos, kidneys, escalopes, kidneys, etc. etc.

CAMEMBERT CAMEMBERT -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CAMOMILE. CAMO MILE. cAMoMrLLr CAMOMILLE - Common Common name na me for a genus of

Canary grass

herbs whicL are herbs of of the the Compositae Compositae family, family, two two varieties varieties of ofwhich are the

Roman Roman or or noble noble camomile camomi/e and and the the German German or or common

CANARY GRASS. GRASS. ALprsrE ALPISTE -- Genus CANARY plants of Genus of of plants of the Graminaceae Graminaceae family, family, one species species of of which is is cultivated in the Canary Islands Islands for for its its seed seed which is rich rich in in edible which is edible starch

camomile. camomile.

Camomile Camomile oil, oil, obtained obtained by by gently gently simmering simmering 65 g. g. (Z+ (2t oz.) oz.) camomile camomile flower ftower heads heads in in 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) olive olive oil (cam(camphorated phorated or or not) not) for for 22 days days in in aa bain-marie, bain-marie, is is a a popular popular

and and is is used used as as food food by by the the local inhabitants. inhabitants. It It was was first introduced introduced into Spain; Spain; from from there there it was taken to the south France where it quickly quickly became became naturalised. naturalised. In In some sorne of France parts parts of France it is called canary canary grain, bird bird grain or spike spike

remedy. remedy.

CAMPANULA. CAMPANULA. clrrareNuI-n CAMPANULE -- Common Common field field plant. plant. It It has has

grain. grain. The other other species species of this this plant plant are are suitable suitable only only for for The forage. forage.

aa purplish-violet and one one variety variety isis edible. edible. The The leaves leaves purplish-violet flower ftower and

and and roots roots can can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad ifif picked picked before before the the plant plant develops develops its its stalk. stalk.

CANCALAISE (A (À LA) -- Lenren Lenten garnish garnish composed of CANCALAISE oysters and and shrimps shrimps in in Normandy Normandy sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). oysters

CAMPEACHY CAMPEACHY WOOD WOOD (Logwood). (Logwood). Bors BOIS DE DE c.cup6crfi CAMPÊCHE -Tree Tree which which grows grows in in Mexico, Mexico, chiefly chiefty around around Campeachy Campeachy Bay. Bay. Its Its wood, wood, ifif boiled, boiled, produces produces colouring colouring mattei matter -- red red on on contact contact with with acids, acids, turning turning violet violet on on contact contact with with alkali. alkali. Deprived Deprived ofofits itstoxic toxicproperties, properties, itit isis used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofliqueurs liqueurs and and for for improving improving the the colour colour of of wine. wine. CAN, DRlIM. BrDoN BIDON -- Originally Originally aa wooden wood en jug jug of of 55 litres litres CA N, DRUM. (4] (41 quarts, quarts, 5| 5t quarts) quarts) capacity; capacity; nowadays nowadays aa metal metal concontainer tainer for for liquids. liquids.

CANCALE -- Small Small fishing fishing port port situated situated near near the the English EngIish CANCALE Channel and and famous famous for for irc its 'blonde' 'blonde' plump plump oysters. oysters. Channel CANCOILLOTTE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CANCOILLOTTE CANDLEMAS -- See See FESTM FESTIVE COOKERY. COOKERY. CANDLEMAS CANDY (Sugar). (Sugar). cANDr CANDI (sucne) (SUCRE) - Purified, crystallised CANDY - Purified, crystallised sugar. sugar. 182 182

CARAMEL CARAMEL cooked cooked pour pour in in a a few few tablespoons tahlespoons concentrated concentrated chicken chicken stock to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with aa ragottt ragoûl of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles saut6ed sautéed in in butter, butter, and and with with SuprAme sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) which which has has a a little little Madeira Madeira

CANE. CANE. cANNE CANNE -- Name Name commonly commonly given given to to different differem species species of of reeds. reeds. Sweet Sweel calamus calamlls was was used used in in the the past pasl as an infusion. inrusion. The TOOts of of giant gianl or bamboo reed reed are still used used in popular popular The roots medicine as an an infusion infusion against aga i nst lacteal lacteaJ disorders. disorders. Sugar Sugar rnedici ne as cane cane prodtces produces sugar. sugar. Cane juice. juice. vtsou VESOU -- Liquid Liquid juice juice which which comes cornes out out of or sugar sugar Cane by the the mi[. mil!. It Tt isis also also called vin vin de canne canne (cane (cane cane crushed crushed by cane wine). wine).

.

added.

CAPONATA (Sicilian (Siciliall cookery) - Peel Peel and and dice dice 4 4 auberauhergines. and when when they they have have yielded yielded their Iheir gines. Sprinkle with with salt and juice, in oil. oil. . . fry them [hem in Shred 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., {l cup) CUD) capers, capers, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., OZ., f~ cup) black hlack olives, olives, I heart heart blanched blanched celery, 4 4 desalted desalted anchovies into illtO julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Fry a thinly sliced onion lightly in oil. aiL Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., lightly in and 22 dl. (* (t pint, pinL scant seant cup) tomato tomato pur6e. puree. Boil Boil *~. cup) sugar and down until itil takes after which which add add I1 dl. dl. takes on a dark colour, after (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scanl *i cup) vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave to 10 simmer for ror a few minutes, minutes, season season generously, generously, add add some sorne chopped parsley and and mix mix with with the the aubergines aubergines and and the the other other ingredients. Decorate or spiny lobster, Jobster, tuna tuna (tunny) (tunny) Decorale the the top with slices of fish fish in in oil, oll, and poutargue poutargue (salted (sal!ed and and dried grey grey mullet mullet roes). roes). This This dish dish is is served served both hoth in in summer summer and and winter. win ter. It Il is is advisable to to prepare prepare it it well well in in advance advance to to allow allow all ail the the of the sweet-sour taste ingredients be permeated permeated by the the swect-sour taste of the Ingredients to be tomato sauce. sauce.

CANNELONI. clNunroNs CANNELONS cARNIs GARNIS - Pasta Pasta dish dish served served as as hors-d'œuvre or a small entie. en/rée. (See (Sec HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, an hors-d'euvre an Hot Hal hors-d'euvre.) hors-d'œuvre.) CANNING·· PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FOOD. CANMNG - See PRESERVATION CANON -- Old French French wine measure of of rt litre' litre. Slang Slang term CANON ror a unit of or liquid measure measure used usod by wine merchants. The for which means word word comes cornes from from canon canon which means a a glass glass in in masonic termi nology. terminology.

CHEESE. CANTAL -- See CHEESE.

CANTALOUP -- Melon, Melon, thus thus called called because originally it mainlygrownat mainly grown al Cantalupo, Cantalupo, near near Rome. Rome. (See (See MELON.)

was

cANTINE -- Camp CANTEEN. CANTIl'.'E Camp or barrack shop for for liquor liquor CANTEEN. and provisions, provisions, etc. etc. Refreshment room at al work. work. cooking The name also applies to a small box hox containing cooking liquids. carrying liquids. a vessel vessel for carryîng officers, and to a equipment for officers,

CAPSICUM CAPSiCUM - See PEPPER.

The best China. The South China. CANTON capital of Soulh besl of CAI{TON -- Former capital Cantonese. all Chinese ail Chînese cuisine is Cantonese.

CAPUA. cApouE -- Italian town situated near CAPUA. CAPOUE near Naples, once renowned for along with ror its ilS wines wines which, which, along with other Olher 'delights', of Ca Cannae. corrupted soldiers after corru pted Hannibal's HannÎ bars soldiers a ner the the battle of nnae.

Small MeditercAPEL -- Small cAPELAN, CAPEL CAPELIN or CAPLIN. CAPELAN, as whiting (q.v.). fish which is is prepared prepared as ranean fish ranean

call the CAPUCIN -- Name by CAPUCIN by which which French hunters ca)) the hare. !lare. (See HARE.) HARE.) (See

short stalk. CAPENDU red apple with aa very short CAPEI\DU -- Variety of red

glass or or flagon crystal bottle or crystal CARAFE -- Large-based Large-based glass boule or flagon carafe. carafon is used is aa small carafe. tlsed for water or wine. A A carafon

caper bush, which grows of the capu cApns -- Floral bud or CAPER. CAPER. CÂPRE Asia Minor, Turkey, Asia Algeria, Turkey, wild in south of France, Algeria, in the soulh wild as aa seasoning pickled in and used are pîckled etc. Capers Capers are in vinegar and used as etc. (nonesuch) capers are the round (llonesllch) the round The best and condiment. condiment. The and best are Bouches-du-Rh6ne. of Var Var and and Bouches-du-Rhône. ddpartements of from the from the départements capers, and English capers, the English and smaller lhan than the They are are firmer They nrmer and with pickled nasturtium nasturtium seeds. not he be confused confused wilh should not

for colouring colouring (Bunt sugar) --- Used cookery for Used in CARAMEL (Burllt in cookery stocks, jellies, brown stocks, sauces, clear sou soups, stews, gravies, sa uces, brown jellies, clear ps, stews, in pastry-making. It is also used used in etc. Il is also paslry-making. etc. Keep small bottles with longitudinally-incised corks, in small boules wilh Keep in which allow allow the the caramel caramel to he be poured drop by drop. whicn (13 oz., g. (13 (confectionery). CARAMELS oz., Mous -- 375 g. cln,utus MOUS Caramels (confectÎonery). Caramels (l|1 piots, pints, Li pints) double lf pints) cream, double cream. litre (J loaf sugar. sugar, if, litre J3 cups) loar (4 OZ., glucose, (4 OZ., g. (4 g. (4 100 g. o2.,11 cup) cup) glucose, finest butter, oz., ~I cup) finesl 100 g. butter, 100 I vanilla bean. 1 pan and glucose, and and into aa pan and vanilla vanilla into cream, glucose, Put the the sugar, sugar, cream, Put with aa wooden wooden all lhe time wilh stirring all the lime flame, stirring on aa high high tlame, boil on boil the sides sides of of the the scrape the As the to boil, boil, scrape the sugar sugar begins (0 spoon. As spoon. is hf'irl1nnlYH"l beginning with the to detach the the sugar which is basin wilh the spoon to reached the degree of has reached the degree crystallise. When the the sugar sugar has to crystallise. to pieces, in small small pieces, add the butter În as thread, thread, add the butter known as cooking known cooking is reached. reached. degree is all the until hall ball degree Cook until stirring ail the time. time. Cook slirring slightly pan from heat. Pour Pour the the sugar sugar omo onto aa slightly Remove the from heat. the pan Remove made with with oiled in aa frame frame made oiled marble slab, oiled marble slab, keeping ilit in oiled (| inch) inch) thick. thick. mm. (± to 66 mm. The sugar layer should be be 5 to rulers. The rulers. as must on account be be scraped, scraped, as no account The bottom of the on no the pan must The go grilly. gritty. Remove Remove Ihe the to. go mixture to. cause the mixture would cause this would this cold, and and completely cold, leave the caramel until until completely vanilla bean, the caramel bean, leave vanîlla into small cut into small squares. squares. eut AU CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -Mous AU cARAMEIS MOUS caramels CARAMELS Chocolate caramels. Chocolate (7 oz.) g. (7 chocolate tha! that slab chocolate 200 g. oz.') slab Add 200 recipe. Add Follow basic basic recipe. Fo\low (6 tablespoons, scant tI in 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant melted În has been been previously melted has cup) water, water. Clip) method Basic rnethod clrf -- Basic Mous AU AU CAFÉ cARAMEIS MOUS Cofree caramels. caramels. CARAMEL'; Coffe(' (6 lablespoons, cup) scant t] cup) tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1I dl. as above. above. Flavour Flavour with as coffee essence. essence. triple strength strength coffee Iriple Aux AVELlNF.s AVELINES Mous AUX cARAMEIS MOUS hazelnuts. CARAMELS with hazelnuts. Caramels WÏlh Caramels in aa (3 OZ., hazelnuts in cup) blanched blanched hazelnuts 75 g. (3 o2.,3 finely 75 Pound finely -.- Pound } cup) litre moisten with with -1I litre Put into into aa bowl, bowl, moisten mortar or or by machine. Put monar cloth, through aa cloth, milk and and serain strain through (scant pint, pint, 2f cups) cups) boiling boiling milk (seant

fish which resembles for a sea name sea nsh CAPITAINE -- French na CAPITAINE me for (q.v.) and in the the same same manner. and is is cooked in carp (q.v.) castrated has been cock which which has been castra Young cock cHApoN -- Young CA PON. CHAPON led CAPON. prepared are prepared Capons are its flavour. flavour. Capons improve its and fattene<.! fattened ta to improve and (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). way as as chickens chickens (see in the same way in the same pArn (belle aurore). nN PÂTE cHAPoN EN pastry crust aurore). CHAPON crust (belle in aa pastry Capon Capon in out on on aa table, table, capon. Spread Spread itit out AURonr -- Done Bone aa capon. BELLE BELLE AURORE separately. stuffings separately. and spices. spices. Prepare two stuffings salt and season season with salt chicken, lean minced meat meat or of aa chicken, made wilh with the the minced The tirsl first isis made The with egg. and combined combined with pork, park pork fat fat and ham, seasoned, seasoned, and and ham, (prepared with is made made with àd gratin forcemeat (prepared The second second is mushchopped mushand chopped marrow, truffies and livers, beef chicken livers, beef marrow, chicken Stuff the with egg. egg. Stuff and combined combined wÎth well seasoned woms), rooms), weil seasoned and layers. Marina Marinate in alterna alternate stuffings in capon with 1these capon hese ttwo wo stuffings te layers. le pork, breast chicken, wings wings lean pork, of chicken, fillet, lean breast of veal tillet, strips of of veal thin thin slrips veal sweetsweetand blanched of hare, hare, and blanched veal of red red partridge, saddle saddle or of juice and lay and lay spices, and and spices, lemon juice oil, Cognac, lemon breads breads in oil. quartered lruffles. Roll truffies. Roll adding quartered the two two stuftings, stuffings, adding belween between the with string. string. in aa doth, cloth, secured secured with and tie tie in capon and stuffed capon the stulTed up the carrots of onion, onion, carrots foundation of on aa foundation Cook in in aa dauMère daubiire (q.v.) on flavoured and flavoured very lillie little stock stock and and ceJery celery moistened with aa very and capon and and Drain 45 minules. minutes. Dra the capon for 45 with Madeira Madeira wine, wine, for in the with lay quickly. Remove wrapped, lay cloth in in which which itit isis wrapped, Remove the the cloth cool quickly. cool join pastry, and and join pastry, coyer more pastry, cover wil.h with more fine pastry, on fine the the capon on can the sleam steam can hole in in the top so so chat that the Make aa hole the top the the edges. Make pastry leaves. Brush \Vith with egg egg leaves. Brush with pastry and decorate decorate witb escape, and pastry isis as the yolk and As saon the pastry moderate oyen. oven. As soon as in aa moderate and bake bake in 183 183

CARAMELISE CARAMELISE pressing out out thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Addsugar sugar and and cream creamand proand propressing ceedas for basic as f.or basic recipe. recipe. ceed prsrACHEs Pistachio-nut caramels_ caramels. CARAMELS cARAMETs MOUS MousAUX AUx PISTACHES Pistachio-nut Follow basic (5 oz., basic method. method. Add Add 150 150g.g. (5 oz.,ll cups) blanched, blanched, Follow 1 cups) finely chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. finely Vanilla Aavouring flavouring may may be be addcd added toto ail all these these different different Vanilla preparations. preparations.

This gas has This gas has no no liquid liquid state. state. When Whenilitisiscooled cooled or ordecomdecompressedand pressed projected onto and projected onto aacold cold surface, surface, itit solidifies solidifies inin the the fonn form of of snow snow which. which, inin turn. turn, vaporises vaporises without without becoming becoming aa liquid. liquid. This This property property has has been been successfully exploited in successfully exploited in the ihe refrigerating refrigerating industry, industry, where where blocks blocks of ofsolid solid carbon carbon dioxide dioxide (U.S. dry (U.S. dry ice) ice) are are used used instead instead of ice for for the of iee thecold cold storage of storage of perishable goods, perishable goods, for for air air conditioning, conditioning, etc. etc. The The substitution substitution of ice by of iee by solid solid carbon carbon dioxide dioxide results great saving results in in aa great saving of of space space and and completely completely avoids avoids humidity. humidity. Carbon Carbon dioxide dioxide may may cause cause asphyxia asphyxia when when itit isis found found inin large large concentration concentration in in confined confined spaces, in vals vats for spaces, in for harvested harvested grapes, etc. grapes, In small etc. In small doses, doses, however, however, ilit isis aa stimulant. stimulant.

*

CARAMELISE. CARAMELISER crtRlrvr6rtsnn -- To To caramelise caramelise aa mould mould inin CARAMELlSE. which aa cream cream or or sorne some other poured for other mixture mixture isis to be poured to be for which cooking in in aa bain-marie (q.v.), coat bain-marie (q.v.), coat itit with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to cooking caramel degree. degree. To To do do this, this, heat heat in pieces cf in the the mould mould several several pieccs of caramel sugar moistened moistened with with aa liule little water, water, until until the the sllgar sugar acquires acquires aa sugar brown colour (see SUGAR, colour (see SUGAR, Sugar Sugar boiling). The mould boiling). The mould brown should then then be be rotated rotated so so as as to to coat coat the interior completely the interior completely should with the the caramel. caramel. The The mou mould can also also be be caramelised caramelised by by with Id cao brushing on on sugar sugar cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree. degree. Creams, Creams, brushing custards, and and other other mixtmes mixtures are are caramelised caramelised by by adding adding (0 to custards, them sorne some sugar sugar cooked cooked \0 caramel degree. to caramel degree. them

CARCASE. CARCASE. CARCASSE cARcAssE -- Bone Bone strllcture structure of of an an animal. animal. ln In butcher's parlance, lhe butcher's parlance, the body body of of aa slaughtered slaughtered animal, animal, drawn drawn and and trimmed. trimmed. pRES CARDAMINE CARDAMINE or LADY'S SMOCK. or LADY'S SMOCK. CRESSON cRESsoN OF..5 DEs PRÉs Common plant of Common plant of American American origin. origin. ItIt isis eaten as salad, eaten as and salad, and has as watercress, but is less strong. It conhas the the same same taste taste as watercress, but is less strong. It contains vitamins, and tains vitamins, and isis recommended recommended for for scorbutic scorbutic comcomplaints. plaints.

CARDAMOM. CARDAMOM. CARDAMOME c.cRonMoME -- Common Common name for for Elellaria Elettaria cardamomum, aa sspecies pecies belonging belonging lO ginger family, whose to the ginger whose aroma"tic aromatic seeds are are used as as aa spiee. spice. CARDINAL (À (A LA) -- Fish garnish composed Fish garnish composed of of coquilles coquilles cardinal, mushrooms and and slivers slivers of of trume. truffie. CARDINAL FISH. FISH. APOGON ApocoN -- One One of varieties of of the the varieties of red red mullet, mullet, found found in in the (See MULLET.) the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. (See MULLET.) ln In U.S.A., redtish, which is U.S.A., redfish, which is found found from from New New Jersey Jersey to to Texas, is very similar. is similar.

Caraway

CARDINALISER tenn [or CARDINALISER -- French French kitchen kitchen term for shellfish shellfish

which are made made to turn tum red red by by plunging plunging them which them into into boiling boiling

court-bouillon. CARDOON. CARDON the arti· CARDOON. cARDoN -- Plant of the same genus as as the artichoke, of which the stems are eaten. The principal varieties are the tbe cardon cardon de de Tours. plein inerme inerme and while. are Tours, plein and improved white. cardon de de Tours Tours is is best, best, though though the the stems are are rather rather The cardon

CARAWAY. CARAWAY. cARVr CARVI - Umbelliferous Umbelliferous plant plant producing producing black seeds, seeds, whose whose odour odour and and taste taste is is halfway halrway between between that that of aniseed aniseed and and fennel. fenne!. Caraway Caraway seeds seeds are are used used to to flavour Aavour certain certain cheeses cheeses and and cakes. cakes. The The seeds, seeds, which which have have a a carminative minative effect, effect, were were included incJuded in in the the carminative carminative comcompounds pounds of of the the old old pharmacopoeia. pharmacopoeia. The The leaves, Jeaves, and and the the white white shoots shoots in in its its first tirst season, gathered gathered before before the the flower flower

spiny. Cardoons must always first be cooked in white vegetable vegetable Cardoons COl/rt-bouillon. They They are are then then simmered simmercd in in the the required court-bouillon. sauce. sauce. Cardoons, to /0 cook. cook. Discard Discard the hard hard stems and those those that that Cardoons, are wilted. wilted. Remove Remove the the tender tender stalks, one by one, and divide divide are them into into 8-cm. 8-crn. (3-inch) long long slices. slices. Remove Remove all ail the the stringy stringy them parts parts and and rub rub every every piece piece with with half half aa lemon, lemon, to to prevent prevent them them from l'rom turning tuming black. black. Put Put them them in in a a white white vegetable vegetable courtcour/which is is already already boiling. boiling. Add Add the the heart heart of of the the carcarbouillon which bouillon doon, carefully carefully trimmed. trimmed. doon, Boil, stirring stirring so so as as to to prevent prevent the Ihe cardoon cardoon sticking sticking to to the the Boil, bottom of of the the pan. pan. Put Put on on the the lid lid and and simmer simmer for for about about 22 bottom hours. hours. Cardooos in in bechamel béchamel sauce. sauce. cARDoNs CARDONS i, À rl LA nfcnaMer BÉCHAMEL Cardoons Drain Drain and and dry dry the the cardoons cardoons after after they they have have been been cooked cooked as as above. above. Simmer Simmer in in butter, butter, with with the the lid lid on on the the pan, pan, for for about about 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add 22 dl. dl. ($ (!- pint, pint, scant sca nt cup) cup) Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer SÎmmer for for 55 minutes. minutes. Cardoons in in butter. butter, cARDoNs CARDONS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Drain Drain the the Cardoons cooked cookedcardoons cardoonsand andcook theminin butter butterfor for 20 20minutes, minutes, with with cook them the lid lid on on the the pan. pan. the Cardool1'i with with cream cre am I.I. canooNs CARDONS A À re LA cnirrrn CRÈME - Simmer Cardoorn - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, the scantcup) cup) Cream Creamsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Si 111 merfor for 55minutes. minutes. scant Cardoom with with cream creant II. Il. clnooNs CARDONS A À rA LA cniMs CRE;\Œ - Simmer Cardoore - Simmer the cooked cooked cardoons cardoons in in butter. butter. Remove Remove them, them, and and pour pour the dl. 6 (t pint, pint, l|l! cups) cups) fresh fresh cream cream into into the the pan. pan. Boil Boil down down 33 dl.

stalks stalks have have begun begun to to shoot, have have a sharp sharp and and aromatic aromatic taste. taste. They They can can be be eaten eaten in in salads, salads, as as aa vegetable, vegetable, or .or in in soup. soup. They are are also also used used for for flavouring flavouring aa marinade. marinade.

CARBOHYDRATE. CARBOHYDRATE. cARBoNE. CARBONE. HyDRAfi HYDRATE nr OE MENT, MENT, ALIMENTATION. ALIMENTATION.

--

See See ALIALI-

CARBON CARBON DIOXIDE. DIOXIDE. cARBoNreuE CARBONIQUE -- Gaseous Gase.ous body body formed formed by by the the union union of of one one atom at.om of of carbon carbon and and two two atoms atoms of of oxyoxygen. This gas gas is is found found in in the the atmosphere, atm.osphere, from from which which itit isis gen. This absorbed absorbed by by plants. plants. These, These, under un der the the influence influence of of solar solar radiation, radiation, combine combine it it with with hydrogen, hydrogen, obtaining obtaining complex complex hydrocarbon hydrocarbon and and fat fat syntheses. syntheses. Soluble Soluble in in cold cold water, water, itit forms forms carbonic carbonic acid acid which which isis found found in in many many mineral mineraI waters. waters. When When introduced introduced under under pressure pressure into into ordinary ordinary water water itit forms forms artificial artificial soda soda water. water. Carbon Carbon dioxide dioxide is is released released in in large large quantities quantities during during alcoholic alcoholic fermentation; fermentation; itit is is this this gas gas which which forms fonTIS froth froth on on sparkling sparkling wines, wines, beer, beer, cider, cider, etc. etc. Highly Highly compressed compressed carbon carbon dioxide diox.ide isis used llsed in in many many indusindustrial trial processes; processes; in in particular, particular, itil is is used used for for drawing drawing beer, beer, 'draught 'draught beer'. beer'. 184 184

Sauerkrautwith "",lhbreast breaSIofveal ofwaland andaaselection seleclionofsausages ofsam.ages(poa. (Pou.phot. Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Sauerkraut

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CAREME CARÊME by half. half. Take offthe off the heat, add 50 g. (2 oz., I±cup) butter, and strain through a sieve onto the cardoons. FINEs HERBES -Cardoors Cardoons aux fines herbes I.clnooNs 1. CARDONS Aux AUX FINES Moisten drain. Moisten the cooked cardoons in in butter. butter, and and drain. Cook the (see SAUCE). with sauce (see SAUCE). with a a few few tablespoons Fines Fines herbes sauce 10 minutes. Simmer for l0 AI-rx FINES FINEs HERBES Il.clnnoNs Cardoons aux fines herbes D. CARDONS AUX Cardoors in buller. butter. Add Add as for Cardoons in Proceed in the same way way as -- Proceed chopped parsley and chervil. Drain the the cooked carFried cardoons. cARDoNs CARDONS FRIrs FRITS -- Drain Fried juice marinate for 30 minutes in oil, lemon juice doons, dry, and marinate in smoking and chopped parsley. Dip in light batter and fry in with fine fine salt. season with hot oil. Drain again and season Trim Cardoons Ià la la grecque. grecque. CARDONS rl GRECQUE cnncQus -- Trim cARDoNs iÀ LA Cardoons juice, and and cook cook in in and slice s!ice the cardoons, rub with lemon juice, rub with and for Artichokes àd a court-bouillon made in as for in the same way as a as described in that described in la grecque (see ARTICHOKE). Finish as recipe. They are hors-d'uuvre. recipe. are served as hors-d'œuvre. Cardoons A L'ITALŒNNE L'ItALruNwe -- Proceed il l'italienne. cARDoNs À I'italienne. CARDONS Cardoors à fines herbes. herbes. Moisten as for for Cardoons aux fines in the same way as with Italian !talian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cardoons gratines. CARDONS A L'ITALIENNE L'trlLtENNE cARDoNs À I'italienne gratinés. Cardoorc ài l'italienne GRATINÉS -- Prepare in the as described the predescribed in cnlrwfs Prepare the the cardoons as gratin dish. vious recipe. recipe. Put the cardoons in dish. Cover Cover them them in aa gratin pour with and pour with fine fine breadcrumbs and with the the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with over sorne quickly in in the the oven. Brown guickly melted butter. Brown some melted Cardooll'> ProA LA rn LYONNAISE LvoFrNAIss -- ProcARDoNs À la lyonnaise. CARDONS Cardoons ài la ceed l'italienne. Moisten Moisten as for for Cardoons àtt l'italienne. ceed in the same same way as with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cardoons with I. CARDONS r,c, MOELLE MoeLI-E -- Drain Drain cennoNs ÀA LA marrow 1. with marrow (q.v.). the in court-bouillon (g.v.). after cooking cooking them them in cardoons after the cardoons When cardoons on on top, of the hearts of lay sliced the cardoons When serving, serving, lay sliced hearts alternating and in salt salt water and alternating with s!ices slices of marrow poached in weB well drained. Cover sauce Maruow sauce few tablespoons with aa few tablespoons Marrow dish with Cover the the dish (see SAUCE). chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped Cardoons with marrow II. CARDONS uoBrr-e -- Arrange rl MOELLE cnnnors Ài LA the pyramid on with and cover cover them them with on aa dish, dish, and in aa pyramid the cardoons in sliced (see SAUCE) SAUCE) Marcow sauce sauce (see Po:ur Marrow cardoon hearts. hearts. Pour sliced cardoon over them parsley. chopped parsley. and sprinkle with chopped them and Arrange round the edge cro0tes hollowed-out croûtes edge of of the dish, dish, hollowed-out of poached diced marrow. diced marrow. and filled with poached of bread, bread, buttered buttered and The hollowed-out pastry puff pastry by puff can be cro0tes can be replaced by hollowed-out croûtes bouchées. bouchies. The chopped and chopped have chopped shallot and marrow can chopped shallot The marrow can have parsley veal sauce parsley added, sauce or or added, combined with concentrated concentrated veal combined witb with glaze. meat glaze. with dissolved dissolved meat Cardoons I-e MILANAISE ruu.ntllsB -- Cook Cook cARDoNS ÀA LA la milanaise. milanaise. CARDONS Cardoons ài la cardoons (q.v.), drain and dry dry them. them. drain and cardoons in in court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), Arrange layer in layers, layers, sprinkling each layer fireproof dish dish in sprinkling each Arrange on on aa fireproof with and grated Parmesan. melted butter with melted butter and with grated Sprinkle with Parmesan. Sprinkle brown oven, sprinkle sprinkle from the When removed removed from the oven, in the brown in the oven. oven. When with with brown brown butter. butter. CardooDS cooked MoRNAy -- Arrange Arrange cooked Mornay. CARDONS cARDoNs MORNAY Cardoons Mornay. and gratin dish. Cover with with in aa buttered dish. Cover and drained cardoons in buttered gratin drained cardoons Mornay grated Par(see SAUCE) Parand sprinkle with grated Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and sprinkle with mesan. and brown in aa very very little melted melted butter mesan. Pour Pour aa !ittle butter over over and brown in hot hot oven. oven. Cardoons (i blanc). AU PARPARblanc). CARDONS cARDoNS AU Parmesan (à with Parmesan Cardoors with MESAN (A BLANC) way as as for for Cardons Cardons nr.aNc) -- Proceed in the MEsAN (À Proceed in the same same way Mornay. Mornay. CardooDS (l brun). PARMESAN AU PARMESAN Parmesan (à brun). CARDONS cARDoNs AU with Parmesan Cardoons with (À (A BRUN) in aa and drained, drained, in nnuN) -- Arrange cardoons, cooked cooked and Arrange cardoons, buttered (see gratin dish; sauce (see with aa Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce cover with dish; cover buttered gratin SAUCE). in the with Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown in the oven. oven. SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with Raw pi6montaise or Piemontese Raw cardoons cardoons àA la la piémontaise or CardieHa Cardielle Piemontese (Italian pIfMoNTAIsE -- Clean Clean cookery). CARDONS cAREoNs CRUS cRUs ÀA LA LA PIÉMONTAISE fltalian cookery). white fibres and and the skin on on thé the white cardoons. cardoons. Remove Remove the the fibres the thin thin skin

place the fresh water. water. in fresh and place the cardoons cardoons in inside of of the stalks, and the stalks, inside (2 inches) inches) long. long. about 44 to cm. (2 to 55 cm. Divide the stalks into pieces about arranged in an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, as they are, arranged in an Serve them them as they are, Serve with the the following sauce: sauce: with pan with (7 oz., in aa pan g. (7 with 22 dl. dl. (| cup) butter Put 200 200 g. scant cup) butter in oz., scant Put garlic and pint, scant and cloves of of garlic oil, 44 shredded shredded c10ves cup) olive olive oil, scant cup) pint, allow do not not allow fillets. Cook Cook slowly; slowly; do diced anchovy fillets. 6 desalted, diced garlic to to brown. the garlic peeled and and truffies, peeled white truffies, Add to sauce one one or or two two white to this this sauce Add Mix, and and serve hot. into thin serve hot. thin strips. sliced into strips. Mix, sliced pun6n DE cardoons as as pur6e. PURÉE DE CARDONS Prepare cardoons cARDoNs -- Prepare Cardoon purée. Cardoon heat the fine sieve, sieve, heat the for Cardoons Cardoons in Pass through through aa fine butter. Pass in bUller. for pur6e and and add add butter. purée potato purée puree can can be be added added to to its volume volume of of potato One-third of of its One-third pur6e. A Bichamel A few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Béchamel the cardoon cardoon purée. the (see SAUCE) added. sauce (see can also also be be added. SAUCE) can sauce cardoons in in aa DE CARDONS cARDoNs -- Cook Cook cardoons salad. sALADE DE Cardoon sai ad. SALADE (q.v.), drain and dry. dry. drain and court-bouillon court-bouillon (g.v.), pepper, and and pepper, and sprinkle vinegar, salt sprinkle salt and Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, Season parsley and and chervil. chervil. with chopped chopped parsley with cARDoNs AVEC AVEC SAUCES sAUcEs with various various sauces. sauces. CARDONS Cardoons Cardoors with with any any of and serve of and drain DIvERsEs -- Cook drain cardoons, cardoons, and serve with DIVERSES Cook and HunHollandaise, HunCream, Hollandaise, following sauces: Butter, Cream, the the following sauces: BUller, (see SAUCE). garian or or Mousseline Mousseline (see SAUCE).

ct

( I 78,S- I 833) Antonin Antonin Carême Car€me (1784--1833)

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CARÊME known as as AntonIn, Antonin, Car6me, known Marie-Antoine Carême, CARENIE - Marie-Antoine was 12 1784, and and died there on on 12 died there June 1784, was born born in in Paris Paris on on 88 June January 1833. January 1833. His much poor working had so so much man who who had His father father was was aa poor working man difficulty found itit simplest large family he found feeding his his large family that that he simplest in feeding difficulty in to farewell meal meal inin aa tavern little Antoine after aa farewell tavern abandon little Antoine after to abandon at piece of gate, leaving provided with advice: with this ofadvice: leaving him him provided this piece at the the city city gate, 'Go, callings. In this excellent callings. world there are excellent 'Go, little little one. one. In this world there are Leave lot and and we we must must die die of of languish; misery misery isis our our lot Leave us us to to languish; misery. wit toto fine fortunes, fortunes, itit only only needs needs wit misery. This This isis the of fine the time time of make perhaps you have. little one, and perhaps Go, little one, and make one, and wit wit you have. Go, one, and this its fine bouse house will will open open its or tomorrow some fine this evening evening or tomorrow sorne doors you.' given you.' you. Go God has has given Go with with what what Gùd doors to to you. The knockedon door could have have knocked on the thedoor abandoned, could The boy, boy, thus thus abandoned, of led him humble Destiny led him to to aahumble or aa locksmith. carpenter or locksmith. Destiny of aa carpenter cookshop, gave him first lesson lesson in in him his his first of which which gave owner of the owner cookshop, the cooking. des has been called the the Cuisinier Cuisinier des who has been called The man man who cooking. The rois (the Cook King kings and and the theKing of kings Roi des cuisiniers (the Cook of rois et et leleRoi des cuisiniers of meanest ofcookshops. cookshops. AA in the the meanestof made his his début d6but in of cooks) cooks) made precarious ucky chance, was precarious beginning! chance, Carême Car€mewas But, by by aa 1lucky beginning ! But, set gifts. magnificent gifts. he hàd had magnificent for which which he craft for work inin aa craft set to to work The from such modest suchaamodest herose rose -- starting starting from with which which he The speed speed with beginning prodigy. beginning -- showed showed him to be be something something of ofaaprodigy. him to He kitchen help helil when He began restaurant as asaa kitchen when work inin aa restaurant began work he years old. great desire desire to his wise wise His great work, his he was was fifteen fifteen years old. His to work, intuition and resources resources of of his his art,and art, and his his intuition for for the secrets and the secrets serene person of revealed him of exceptional exceptional serehe authority authority revealed him asas aa person 185 l8s

Preserved fruits (Quintard. Pho t. N icolas)

CAREME quality. Very soon he moved to the celebrated pdtissier quality. Bailly in rue Vivienne, who had as a client M. de Talleyrand, Bailly made gastronomy serve who made an an extremely c1ever clever diplomat who serve political ambitions. ambitions. On On leaving Congress of his leaving for for the his political the Congress advantages Vienna, where he was able to obtain important advantages XVIII, the gourfor France, Talleyrand Talleyrand declared to to Louis XVIII, well able to understand the words: 'Sire, met king, who was weil 1I have more need of of casseroles than of of written instructions.' has left us an account of the lime he spent with us an time he Carême Car0me has 'At seventeen,' he writes, '1'I was with M. Bailly: 'At the famous Bailly: as his first tourtier. This good mas master Bailly as ter showed aa lively intere:;t in me. He allowed me to leave work in order to draw interest in the print room. When 1I had shown him that 1I had aa parfor his his art art he he confided to me the vocation for to me the task ticular vocation task of (Napoleon's) monties for Consul's (Napoleon's) creating for the creating piices montées the Consul's flourished in ill ustrious Avice in the ta ble. At that time, the illustrious table. time, the Avice tlourished his work served as pâtisserie; his realm of of phtisserie; as my instruction. The knowledge of his procedures gave me courage and 1I did ail all follow him, but not to imitate him.' could to to follow 1I could In brief, Carême Car6me created created extraordinary decorative pieces ln pieces young pastrygeneral admiration. This young whichprovoked which provoked generaJ set pieces on the engravings engravings in great French cook based his set in his collections which he studied even in his tenderest tenderest years. He with architecture associated confectionery confectionery with wrote the associated architecture and and wrote 'The fine quoted by following sentence, quoted by Anatole France: 'The Anatole France: following painting, sculpture, poetry, in number, to wit: painting, arts are five five in to wit: music, architecture -- whose whose main branch is is confectionery.' confectionery.' who kept de Lavalette who M. de Car6me entered entered the service of M. aa famous table and entertained the most distinguished men politics, Here Carême in poli sciences. Here Car0me army, the arts and and sciences. in tics, the the army, the arts delicacy, order worked, as he puts it, to further the union of delicacy, years with He next with Prince and next stayed twelve and economy! He twelve years Talleyrand whose table, was furnished furnished with he declared, was Talleyrand table, he wisdom. Later, he he became chief cook to grandeur and wisdom. to the in England. for two Here he Prince Regent Regent in England. Here he stayed stayed for two years. Prince he explained the Every Every morning he the properties of each indi'Car0me,' said his royal master dish to to the said his vidual dish royal mas ter the Prince. 'Carême, me with with aa surfeit food. 1I have surfeit of food. will kill me have a one one day, day, 'you will you put before me. for everything you fancy me. The temptation is fancy for great.' 'YOUf 'Your Highness,'' replied Carême really too really Car6me (who too great.' in the preamble to his Cuisinier relates relates this to his this conversation in great concem parisien),'my concern is to stimulate your appetite by parisien), variety of my dishes. It is no concern of mine to curb it.' the variety returned to he returned The English depressed him, him, and and he The fogs depressed English fogs later King George IV, The Prince Prince Regent, Regent, later IV, asked France. The munificent terms which which would him to him to return, and and offered munificent prosperity, but present and and future future prosperity, Car6me but Carême assure assure his his present refused. Alexander, We find him at Saint Petersburg with the Czar Alexander, at the Court of Vienna, at the British Embassy in Paris, at in the AixJa-Chapelle, in the households of the the Congress Congress of Aix-la-Chapelle, and finally Bagration and Lord Stewart, Stewart, and finally with Princess Princess Bagration and Lord for seven seven years. Rothschild, where he he remained for Baron Baron de de Rothschild, with this the Rothschild finance, the Rothschild While While he he was was with this prince of finance, in Europe. M. de de Rothschild, Rothschild, table was considered the best in just bought bought the Ferridres estate, estate, offered offered him him the having just having the Ferrières chiteau, and opportunity opportunity of directing directing the the kitchens of the the château, retire there. Car6me could, if if he he wished, wished, retire added that hp h~ could, added that there. Carême by the was exhausted the unexhausted by declined declined this this offer. offer. His strength was remitting labours of thirty years. prayer,' he added, 'is not to end my days in a château ch0teau 'My prayer,' in Paris, and to in humble lodgings in but to publish aa comprebut in present my profession at state of my at the present hensive survey of the state He fell gravely ill and was forced to to take to his bed. time.' He anxiety xi et y was his fear of not being able to complete His great an of his art. books which he regarded as essential to the future of 12 January 1833, fi ft y years, on 12 He died, still under under the age of of fifty bumt tlame of burnt out, out, according to to Laurent Tailhade, by the flame

of his ovens. His liis last moments of of life his genius and the fuel of were spent notes to spent in dictating notes to his daughter. were is aa model of probity pro bit y and nobility. nobility. Money Money Carême's life is Car6me's life was important. His His art art alone was meant to him. him. His meant nothing to very conception of culinary art is in tune with the grandeur was always Carême's It was Ideal to to present Car6me's ideal of his character. It which he he enriched the culinary marvels with which sumptuously sumptuously the Nothing could more meticulous of kings. Nothing could be be more the the tables tables of than the drawings he made for set pieces, aspics, galantines, baskets of fruit, etc., etc., or even simple borders. Nowadays, longer approve approve of we no of this no longer Nowadays, we this ostentatious manner of setting setting out cooked dishes. have banished manner We have out cooked dishes. We banished as much for the sake of hygiene as display from our tables, tables, as for reasons of expediency. But it must be remembered that worked for the great ones Carême Car6me worked enes of the earth and wanted art to as aa foil foil to his art to 'serve to European diplomacy'.. Never'serve as considered that cooking must be decorative, theless, while he considered hygienic. He himself he was equally emphatic that it must be IIVI~'\"'''\''. was extremely was extremely sober and and considered that 'good cooking life of old societies'. societies'. should strengthen the life

91 ror

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works of one of of Carême's Car&ne's works Title page of

He died poor, leaving only his his works, listed below: Maître d'hôtel français. Comparisons of ancient and Maitre d'h6tel frangais. point of view view of the modern cookery considered from modem from the point plan and meptrs according to plan to the four the arrangement of menus and the

I* Le

186

CARP Petersburg, London seasons, in St Petersburg, London and and Vienna, Vienna, 2 seasons, in Paris, Paris, St volumes. Le and practical Le Pdtissier Pâtissier royal parisien. parisien. Elernentary practical Elementary and treatiseo 4l plates treatise, 22 volumes. volumes. Later edition, ornamented with 41 volumes. by the author, 22 volumes. Le Cuisinier Cuisinier parisien.l parisien. 1 volume. L'Art de de la cuisine au siicle.55 volumes. au dix-neuvidme dix-neuvièmesièc/e. Le Phtissier 128 plates by Pâtissier pittoresque. Ornamented with with 128 author. the author. works. He He preThere is is unusual erudition in Carême's Car6me's works. faced formulation of modern menus menus with aa treatise on faced his formulation great deal ancient required a ancient cookery which required a great deal of research, cookery which and which bears for his probears witness witness to a a devoted passion passion for fession. Le Pdtissier Pâtissier royal parisien parisien is is filled filled with the sentiment Le with the which which earned earned his his immortality: irnmortality: indignation. Carême Car€me was unable to view without without disgust that men totally ignorant of cookery books. the art of cooking published cookery The plan of this book is extremely methodica!. methodical. The subjects with which he deals are provisions provisions (with observations their freshness, quality and season), details on their details and organisathe larder, larder, major major and minor sauces, consommés, tion of the and minor sauces, consomm6s, tion hors-d' œuvre, frying, frying, sweets, sweets, the the co Id buffet; buffet; in in short, hors-d'euvre, cold all short, aU relating to the direction of the kitchen. kitchen. Carême the details relating Car€me vocabulary where he establishes the added to this treatise a vocabulary the names names of dishes which had had been travestied spelling of the by so many. Carême should be he regarded regarded as as the founder founder of 'la grande grande Car0me classic French French cookery. cookery. His His theoretical work, work, his cuisine', classic practical work pastry-maker, work as as an an inventor of sauces, as pastry-maker, sauces, as and author author of works works devoted to to cooking, designer and cooking, place a much higher higher level than than those who preceded him. him at a

yolks. This in butter and and egg egg yolks. oranges, is also also found found in oranges, etc. etc. It is r6le in substance plays an important rôle in the growth of animais, animals, into vitamins vitamins in in the is transformed and and is transformed into the animal animal organism. importance of fresh vegetables Its properties emphasise the the importance in the diet. in CARP. fish. It It probably originated CARP. CARPE cARpE -- Freshwater fish. originated in in in 1614 1614 and China, China, and and was was imported into into England England in and into Holland and about 1660. 1660. In In 1876 it was taken and Scandinavia about put in to in fish to U.S.A., put in Washington, fish ponds in Washington, D.C., and and in 1879 distributed 1879 tories. It distributed to to twenty-five twenty-five states and and terri territories. It is abundant abundant in in the West, and and sold sold in in the Middle West, the Middle the principal eastern cities of U.S.A. The carp has aa sm ail mouth mouth with four fleshy fleshy appendages small called barbules, barbules, but has no teeth. The river carp has brownish brownish golden-yellow scales scales on the back, flanks, greenishback, golden-yellow scales on its flanks, white scales scales on the stomach. The carp which inhabits inhabits lakes and ponds often has a muddy smell, and is darker in colour. colour. grow to Carp Carp can can grow The best enornous size. to an an enormous size. The best season season for eating them them is is between and the end of March. the end between November and

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CHOU cen,q,iss CARAÏBE - Root of Arum CARIBBEAN CABBAGE. crrou CARIBBEAN esculentum. Used in Asia and Africa and also cultivated in esculentwn. of France. France. Prepared Prepared as as swedes swedes (q.v.). (q. v.). the south of

Mirror Mirror carp

CARINA. snfcHrr BRÉCHET - Breast bone of poultry and feathered feathered game. gently bent is supple when gently bent to the right game. If this bone is and to the left the bird is young and its flesh will be tender. tender.

which the chief are carp, of which There are are several species species of carp, the carp, leather Kollar carp, Bohemian and Bohemian the mirror carp, leather carp, carp, Kol/ar carp, and carp. The mirror carp called the queen of carp was called of carp in the old flesh. It is days on account of the great delicacy of its flesh. is more grows more hardy than than the common carp, more rapidly, rapidly, and carp, grows hardy the common attains a larger larger size. The Kollar Kollar carp carp is is seldom seldom found found in attains a size. The abundant in in Belgium, in Germany France, but is Belgium, in Germany and is abundant and in Hungary. Hungary. AU All these species species of carp are prepared in the same way as common carp. common are bred in in Sologne and in In France, carp are in the Dombes, from where they they are are transported transported alive from where alive to to Germany Germany in aquarium trucks trucks for for the the manufacture Hamburg carp manufacture of of Hamburg pâté. They are also also bred on the shores of the Dead Sea. pdti. Carp ià loalsacienne. J'a)sacienne. CARPE L'ALSACIENNE -- Fill a Carp cARpE À A t'us.lcrENNE a carp (see FORCEof medium medium size fish cream cream stuffing stuffing (see size with with aa fish MEA T, Fish forcemeat). Poach Poach in aa little white wine. GarMEAT, Fish forcemeat). nish with Sauerkraut garnish (see (see GARNISHES), nish with GARNISHES), and Sauerkrant garnish boiled-down liquor in which boiled potatoes. Serve Serve with the boiled-down Kneaded butter (see BUTTER) was cooked, thickened with Kneadedbutter it was BUTTER) and with aa little fresh butter added. Carp cooked in beer (German cookery). CARPE LA BIÈRE cARpE À A r.l sdnr of moderate size which can be stuffed or not, Season a carp of -- Season fish kettle on a foundation of tas te. Put it in a fish according to taste. (5 oz., 150 g. (5 Lf, cups) chopped onion lightly lightly fried in butter, oz., li (1 oz.) gingerbread cut into small together with 25 g. (1 together small squares, and 2 stalks finely finely sliced celery. celery. Add a bouquet gami. garni. fish; sufficient to almost coyer Pour light beer over the fish; cover it. Poach in a slow oyen. oven. When cooked, put the fish on aa long and garnish with the the roes, roes, which which have have been platter and been sliced and poached. Boil down one third the the liquor in which and down by one which

CARLINE - Plant which grows in the cARLTNE The root of the mountains, particularly particularly in the the C6venrtes. Cévennes. The mountains, great carline thistle is sometimes sometimes used as a drug. The young taste, while the eaten in salads, have a nutty taste, flower-heads, eaten fenne!. roots have a flavour similar to that of fennel.

CARLINE THISTLE.

CARMINATIVE. clnuINArIF CARMINATIF - Medicament Medicament which which prepreCARMINATfVE. or provokes provokes the the expulsion, of gases vents the the formation, or vents contained in the intestines. The kind kind of carminative carminative which contained the old pharmacopoeia pharmacopoeia consisted consisted of grains grains of featured in the coriander, fennel and caraway in equal parts. aniseed, coriander, CARMIN - Substance from cochineal, CARMINE. cARMIN Substance derived from a vivid scarlet red red colour, non-toxic, used used to to colour a of a

of food substances. variety of CARNATION. orrrrrr OEILLET -- The The petals petais of of the carnation carnation flower CARNATION. ratafia. are used to make a syrup and a ratafia. CARN IV AL. cARNAvAL CARNAVAL - The period between between Epiphany Epiphany CARNIVAL. and Ash Ash Wednesday, given given up up to to all ail kinds kinds of rejoicing rejoicing and especially in the pleasures of the table. CAROLINE CAROLINA. cnnor-mn rice. (See (See RICE.) RICE.)

--

Commercial name for a type type of Commercial

CAROLINE -- Name Name given given in in pastry-making pastry-making to to small CAROLIhIE éclairs served as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. 6clairs

CAROTENE. clnoriun CAROTÈNE - Yellow colouring matter, wideCAROTENE. spread in the vegetable kingdom. Besides carrots, it is also found in in spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, peas, peas, pumpkins, pumpkins, cabbages, found 187 r87

CARP

Leather Leather carp

Bohemian carp

sieve, add add aa little fresh butter, and the carp was cooked, sieve, little fresh the carp was serve with the fish. Carp au bleu. bleu. cmpr CARPE AU AU BLEU -- Small carp used for carp are are used Carp au as for BIue this preparation. preparation. Proceed Proceed in the same way as Blue trout this. (see TROUT). (see.TROUT).

parsley. Serve garnish with fresh parsley. Drain the carp, and and garnish with fresh the carp, Drain with aa sauce sauce used used with with poached fish. with melted butter or with Lift the from aa fillets from Fillets of carp. FILETS FILETs DE DE CARPE cARpE -- Lift the fillets Fillets Trim and and poach in a and season season them, and medium-sized carp. Trim cover Drain the the fillets, fillets. and and coyer stock. Drain little concentrated fish fish stock. httle Fines herbes, herbes, sauces: Cream, Crgarn, Fines following sauces: with one one of of the the following with wine, or Normande, White White wine, or any any Mariniire, Normande, Hollandaise, Marinière, Hollandaise, (see SAUCE). fish (see sauce suitable for for poached SAUCE). sauce poached fish by any any of the the garcarp can can be be accompanied accompanied by Fillets of carp poached fish, to poached fish, and and particularly those appropriate to nishes appropriate (see SOLE). given for sole, sole, or fillets fillets of sole (see given FRrrE -- Deep-fry Deep-fry smalJ small carp in in hot hot oil. cARpE FRITE Fried carp. CARPE with fine fine salt salt and Drain, and with aa clotho cloth. Season wipe with and wipe Season with Drain, fried parsley and and quarters of lemon. with fried garnish with I-.1udrnr maihe d'hôtel. d'h0tel. CARPE cARpE GRILLÉE cRnrfE ÀA LA Grilled carp àI la maître MAÏTRE in this way. way. Follow the are prepared in n'uOtEL -- Small carp are D'HÔTEL (see BASS). instructions for for Grilled Grilled bass bass (see instructions la juive. CARPE A LA rA. JUIVE Carp àt la cARpE À ruryE -- Cut aa medium-sized Carp with 1I chopped chopped onion onion and and 3 cook with carp into into slices, slices, and and cook carp (| pint, in 22 dl. dl. (t which have have been cooked in been cooked chopped shallots which (ll oz., g. (1t browning. Sprinkle with 35 g. scant cup) oil without browning. seant cover the fish with with white wine the fish 66 tablespoons) flour. Almost Coyer (or water). water). Season with salt salt and and aa touch touch of and fish fish stock stock (or Season with and garni garlic cloyes Add 22 cru crushed cloves and and aa bouquet bouquet garni cayenne. Add cayenne. shed garlic (q.v.). Sprinkle with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Bring Bring to to the Sprinkle with (q.v.). 20 minutes. lid on on for 20 and simmer slowly with the lid boil, and dish, reforming reforming Drain the the carp carp slices· slices and and set set them them on on aa dish, Drain the shape of the the carp. the liquor by two-thirds, rem remove from the Boil down down the the liquor by two-thirds, Boil ove from (+ pint, scant cup) in 22 dl. dl. (t cup) oil. oil. Pour over over the heat, and and beat in heat, with chopped chopped parsley. cool. Sprinkle and leave to to cool. Sprinkle with carp and A LA t'onrcNI'orientale. CARPE r.l JUIVE rutw ÀA L'ORIENcARpE À Carpe àI la juive ài l'orientale. juive but after same way in the same way as as Carp Carp àd la juive TALE -- Prepared Prepared in TALE incorporated has been boiled down down and the oil oil incorporated and the the sauce sauce has been boiled the (l oz., peeled, blanched g. (1 and25 cup) peeled, blanched add a pinch ofsaffron of saffron and oz.,lt cup) add 25 g. and chopped chopped almonds. and parsley. CARPE IERSIL la juive with A LA ra JUIVE rulve AU AU PERSIL with parsley. cARpE À Carp ài la same way as as Carpe àd lajuive la juive with with the addiaddi-- Prepared in the same parsley to cooking liquor. liquor. fresh parsley to the the cooking tion of of several several sprigs sprip fresh tion parsley when Add more chopped chopped parsley when ready ready to to serve. serve. Add juive with rl JUIVE AUX la juive with raisins. raisire. CARPE cARpE ÀA LA ruNs AUX Carpe Carpe ài la Carp àd lajuive. la juive. Add Add to RArsrNs -- Prepared in the same same way as as Carp RAISINS incorliquor, in in which which the the oil oil has has been been incorthe boiled-down boiled-down liquor, the (l oz., powdered sugar, porated, 15 g. (t 15 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) powdered sugar, 22 porated, (2 oz., g. (2 raisins, cup) seeded seeded raisins, tablespoons wine wine vinegar, 50 50 g. oz., t* cup) tablespoons (mixed) which (2 oz., g. (2 which cup) currants currants and sultanas (mixed) and 50 50 g. oz., t* cup) and sultanas and in lukewarm drained. allowed to to swell swell in lukewarm water and and drained. have been been allowed EN MATELOTE Prepared wi with MATELoTe -- Prepared Carp th Carp en en matelote. matelote. CARPE cARpE EN Eel en into slices in the the same way as as Eel en matelote matelote the the carp carp cut cut into slices in same way (see EEL). (see EEL).

Carp Chambord Chambord Carp

cHAMBoRD -- Stuff Stutr aa carp with with aa Carp Chambord. Chambord. CARPE clnpn CHAMBORD FORCEMEAT, Fish Jorcedelicate MEAT, Fish fish cream cream stuffing (see FORCE delicate fish forceremove aa strip of skin from both both meats). Sew Sew it up. up. Neatly remove the skin skin towards towards the the stomach stomach unsides fish leaving the sides of the the fish in the Lard the the skinned portion stuffing. Lard touched to to hold hold in the stuffing. with strips strips offat of fat bacon, or stud it with truffie slices. (Alternatively this part can be spread with aa thin layer of fish stuffing in crescent shapes.) cut in garnished with with slices slices of truffie cut Put the drainer of the the fish fish kettle on aa base base of on the the carp on the drainer mushroom peelherbs which, with with sorne sonre mushroom and vegetables vegetables which, herbs and garni in butter. bouquet garni fried in ings, butter. Add aa bouquet ings, have have been been lightly fried (q.v.). (see STOCK) wine (see Pour red wine STOCK) to with red some Fish Flslz stock stock with Pour on on sorne reach two-thirds of the fish. Braise in aa moderate two-thirds up the sides of (160'C., 325°F., oyen Gas Mark Mark 3). 3). 325"F., Gas oven (I60°C., glaze it, Drain it, and and surround surround with with aa Chambord Chambord fish, glaze Drain the the fish, (see GARNISHES) of garnish (see garnish the different parts of GARNISHES) arranging the groups. Put the Put aa little little Genevoise Genevoise sauce in separate groups. the garnish in (see SAUCE) in (see the dish, dish, using using the the liquor in the the bottom bottom of of the separately. from the braised carp. the sauce ofthe sauce separately. carp. Serve Serve the rest of preparation Cold FRoIDE -- Ali All methods of of preparation cARpE FROIDE Cold carp. carp. CARPE (see SALMON) given Salmon trout trout given for salmon (see SALMOI9 and and Salmon for Cold Cold salmon (see TROUT) TROUT) apply apply to to carp. Carp cARpE AU AU COURT-BOUILLON couRT-BouILLoN -court-bouillorl CARPE Carp au au court-bouillon. (prepared with Poach red or in aa court-bouillon with red or Poach the the fish fish in court-bouillon (prepared white and seasoning. seasoning. aromatic vegetables and white wine) containing containing aromatic 188 188

CARROTS

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Carp Carp à la la polonaise. polonaise. cARpE CARPE A À LA por,oNArsE POLONAISE - Stuff a medium-sized carp with fish stuffing and place on a foundation of 50 g. g. (2 oz., It cup) chopped onion and 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., shallot in a a fish kettle or large pan. Add a *t cup) chopped shallot bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and season. season. Almost Almost cover coyer the the carp with liquor consisting consisting of half red wine and half fish fish stock. Add 100 g. (4 oz.) gingerbread cut into large squares. squares. Braise slowly on top of the stove or in the oven. oyen. Drain the carp and cover coyer with the following sauce: Prepare a g. (2 a pale pale caramel syrup syrup with with 50 50g. (2 oz., oz., t cup) cup) sugar and and I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant *t cup) vinegar. Add the sieved liquor in which the fish was cooked, mixed with 100 g. (4 oz, oz., *t cup) butter and and 50 50 g. g. (2 oz., *t cup) flaked ftaked almonds almonds which have have been lightly Iightly grilled. grilled. Carp quenelles. eUENELLES QUENELLES DE cARpE CARPE - Prepare with carp meat in the same way as Pike quenelles (see PIKE). PIKE). Poach the the carp quenelles quenelles and and serve on on croustades feuilleties (see CROUSTADE) CROUSTADE) or on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. letées (see They are accompanied by by various various garnishes garnishes and are are covered covered with with a sauce sauce suitable suitable for for the garnish garnish used. used. (See (See QUENELLE, QUENELLE, Fish quenelles.) quenelles.) also used as as part of the the garnish for Carp quenelles are also large large braised braised fish, and fish fish pies. carp. cARpE CARPE n6rn RÔTIE - Prepare in the the same way as as Roast carp. Roast Roast pike pike (see PIKE). PIKE). Carps' roes. LAITANC.ES LAITANCES DE DE cARpE CARPE - Often Often used as part of Carps'roes. large braised fish. They can also be served as aa garnish for large a hot hot hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or or as as an an entrie. entrée. Carps' roes, roes, and and those those of other other fish, fish, should should first first be Carps' poached poached in a little littre court-bouillon, court-bouillon, or cooked in butter with lemon lemon juice juice addedo added, in in a covered pan. Prepare Prepare according according to the the instructions instructions given given under the the different recipes recipes for soft roes (q.v.). (q.v.). roes l'ancienne. cARpE CARPE FARcTE FARCIE A À r'lNcrnNns L'ANCIENNE Stuffed carp à I'ancienne. Shfied large, soft-roed soft-roed carp. carp. Remove Remove the flesh ftesh and add it Scale a large, eel, and 8 desalted desalted anchovies. Make a to that of aa small eel. Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) but but without without Quenelle sauce. Keep Keep it it rather rather firm. firm. Be Be careful, when adding any sauce. removing removing the the carp's flesh, ftesh, to leave leave the the backbone backbone intact, intact, complete with head head and tail. tail. complete Blanch Blanch the the roes, roes, cut them them into into pieces, pieces, and saut6 sauté them in butter butter with a a little little lemon lemon juice. juice. Add Add truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms rooms and and a few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Thickly Thickly butter butter a tin tin tray tray of the the same length length as as the the carp. Lay forcemeat forcemeat on on this, this, about 55 cm. (2 (2 inches) inches) deep, deep, in the the Lay shape of of the the carp, carp, and and set the the backbone, backbone, to to which which the the head head shape and tail tail are are still still adhering, adhering, in in place. place. Cover Coyer the the bone bone with with a and little little more more forcemeat forcemeat and and add add the ragottt ragoût of of truffies, truffies, mushrooms and carp's carp's roes. roes. On On top of this this lay lay about 2* 2t cm. (l (1 roorns inch) forcemeat, forcemeat, keeping keeping carefully carefully to to the the shape of of the the carp. carp. inch) Smooth the the surface surface with with the the blade blade of of aa knife knife dipped dipped in in hst hot Smooth water. Butter Butter a a large large baking baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle sprinkle breadbreadwater. crumbs on on the the butter. butter. Put Put the the tin tin tray trayon which the the carp carp crumbs on which has been been prepared prepared over over heat heat for for a few few minutes minutes so that that the the has butter melts. melts. It is is then then possible possible to to slide slide the the fish fishonto the butter onto the baking sheet. sheet. baking Coyer the the fish fish with with bqaten beaten egg, egg, then then with with fine fine dry breadbreadCover crumbs, pressing pressing them them on on with with a a knife. knife. Pour Pour on melted melted crumbs, butter. With With the the tip tip of of aa small smaU spoon spoon press press in in aa pattern pattern of butter. scales, beginning beginning at at the the head. head. scales, Cook the the carp carp in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes, minutes, basting basting Cook frequently with with clarified c1arified butter butter so so that that itit acquires acquires aa golden golden frequently colour. Remove Remove from from the the baking baking sheet sheet with a a long long fish fish colour. slice, and and slide slide itit onto onto the the serving serving dish, dish, together together with with aa little Iittle slice, Sauce financiire financière (see (see SAUCE), SA U CE), based based on on fish fish essence. essence. Serve Serve Sauce with more more sauce. sauce. (L'art (L'art de de la la cuisine cuisine frangaise française de de CarAme, Carême, with by Plumerey.) Plumerey.) by

or CARPEAU -- Very CARPILLON or Very small carp. carp. Also Also aa species of small species small mullet which which does does not not spawn. spawn. This This fish,

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which is Euro, which is found in in the and other other EuroRh6ne, the the Rhône, the Saône Sadne and pean pean rivers, is is treated in in the same way way as as carp. Its Its ftesh flesh is tender and delicate. delicate. CARPION - Variety of trout, found in in alpine CARPION alpine trout, principally found streams. Ali methods methods of preparation indicated indicated for for river streams. All of preparation TROUT). trout can be applied to it (see TROUT). CARRÉ DE BONNEVILLE _ - See CARRE DE BONhIEVILLE SEC CHEESE: CHEESE:

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CARRIER PIGEON. pigeon which CARRIER PIGEON. BISET BIsEr - Wild Wild pigeon which is is also rock pigeon pigeon. It is smaller than the ring dove (or wood called rock pigeon). Its plumage is slate-grey. slate-grey. be prepared in any way suitable for the domestic It can be pigeon (see PIGEON). PIGEON) ... In France, this name is also given to aa marsh bird similar duck, which is cooked in the sa me way as to the wild duck, same as wild (see DUCK, DUCK, Wild duck). duck (see CAROTTES - Root Root vegetables which which are CARROTS. cARorrEs are used many dishes, dishes, either as as an base or in many aromatic base an aromatic or alone as as a

garnish. carrot contains contains a a notable notable amount The carrot imount of sugar, sugar, which adds to its nutritive properties. The following recipes recipes are adds The following are used, they should intended for new carrots. If old ones are be blanched first. béchamel sauce. sauce. cARorrEs CAROTTES A À LA· gEcHIMEL BÉCHAMEL Carrots in bechamel Cook the carrots in salted boiling water or prepare them in as Glazed the same way as serving, Glazed carrots (see below). Before serving, add a a few few tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). add SAUCE). Boiled carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES A À r'ANcL.l,rsB L'ANGLAISE - Cook Cook tender Boild carrots in boiling water. Drain them, and serve fresh butter carrots separately. separately.

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Two varieties of carrot:

1. Long; ]llf.lfi 2. Short, ;i,?Tli'", forced variety ,'"',[?

Buttered carrots. carrots. cARorrEs CAROTTES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Boil the carrots. carrots, Buttered return them them to to the pan, add a little !ittle butter, butter, and shake shake drain, return so that that each carrot receives a coating coating of of butter. butter. so Carrots en en cheveux cheveux d'ange (angel's hair). hair). c,morrEs CAROTTES EN Carots CHEVEUX D'ANGE D'ANGE - Carrot jam which used used to be prepared cHEvEux

in the the south-west of France. France. (See crrnvuux CHEVEUX n'.l,Ncn.) D'ANGE.) in Carrots Ià la crlme crème I. 1. cA,RorrEs CAROTTES A À I"l LA cniur CRÈME - Boil the Carrob drain, return to to the the pan and and cover coyer with with boiling boiling carrots, drain, cream. Boil Boil down down by by two-thirds. two-thirds. cream. Carrots ià le la cr0me crème II. II. clnorrss CAROTTES À rl LA cnilrs CRÈME -- Blanch Blanch 500 500 g. Carrots (generous 1 lb.) carrots, rinse rinse in in cold co Id water, water, and and drain. drain. (generous Coyer with more more cold cold water and and add add a a pinch of salt, salt, I1 Cover

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CARVING CARVING (2 OZ., g. (2 tablespoon fine fine sugar sugar and and 50 50 g. oz., i* cup) cup) butter. Bring butter. Bring lablespoon poin1, then boiling point, to boiling reduce the then reduce leave ta and leave the heat heat and cook to cook to the liquid liquid isis syrupy. until the syrupy. Test Test the carrots to to make sure they the carrots they make sure until are cooked. If they are cooked. If are still still bard, hard, add few tablespoons add aa few tablespoons are hot watcr water and and boil down down until until the the Iiquid liquid again again becomes becomes hot syrupy. syrupy. Pour boilîng boiling crearn cream over over the the carrots. carrots. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, Pour lower the then lower heat and the heat and simmer simmer until until the the cream cream has has boiled then little. Add gently mixing Add 1I tablespoon butter, down aa !iUle. butter, gently mixing itit in. in. down particular Garnish accord according to the instructions instructions of of the the partîcular Garnish lng to

purCe J,I, but as Carroi Carrot purée same method as with the of aa but with the addition sarne addition of guarter oC weight ln puttiqg the of the the carrots' carrots' weight when putting in rice rice when the quarter carrots on on to to cook. cook. carrots addition of The addition of potatoes or rice in carrot pur6es helps helps 10 to The improve their improve their (,{\T'~,(:lpTlrv consistency. They are prepared in in this this way way garnishes. when used used for for gamishes. when Carrot soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf AUX AUx CAROTTES cARorrEs -* Press Press 250 250 g. Carrot (generous lb.) carrots, pur6e, through a carrots, prepared as opr\",r'~l\~ 1 for aa purée, as for I lb.) fine sieve. sieve. Remove Remove the moisture from from the puree by by allowing to boil boil rapidly for for aa few few moments. ilit to yolks. Cool Take the the pan off off the the heat heat and add 33 egg and add egg yolks. Cool Take and add 33 stifry whisked whisked egg whites. whites. Turn Turn into into aa slightly and (200'C., 400"f., dish and cook cook in 400'F., in the aven oven (200°C., buttered soufflé souff6 dish 15 minutes. Serve Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) for for about about 15 Serve al at once. Gas pETITs SOUFFLÉS soufres. PETITS carrot soufflés. Small carrot AUx CAROTTES cARorrEs -SmaU sourrlfs AUX same as for for CarrOI Carrot soffii. Put the soufRé soufrE Proceed in the sa me way as mixture in small small fireproof dishes and cook for 6 ta mÎxture to 8 minutes. (generous nAIN DE g. (generous ttmbale. PAIN DE CAROTTES cARorrEs -* Sieve 250 g. Carrot timbale. pur6e, and cooked as pan over as for aa purée, and place in in aa pan over ~j lb.) carrots cooked for aa few heat to to dry out for few minutes. Add dry out Add 3 whole whole eggs, mix mix heat well, and and turn into aa buttered buttered charlone ...'~II·11 weil, charlotte mould mould I1PI'r turn inlo decorated with sliced sliced cooked carrots. pan of hOI Cook in hot water or bain-marie in in a moderate Cook in a pan (180'C., 350°F., oven (180°C., Mark 4) for 350oF., Gas Gas Mark for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Allow oven stand aa few few minutes before turning out out the mould. to stand Serve with with béchamel bCchamel sauce, hollandaise sauce. santce, cream, cream, or or hollandaise sauce, Serve Ia Vichy. Vichy. CAROITES cARorrEs À A LA u vrcrry and slice Carrots il!i la VICHY -- Pare and new carrots, carrots, and and cook cook as as fOf for Glazed carrois, carrots, addîng adding for new for (scant pint, 2a salt, 25 g. 2| cups) water, 1I teaspoon salt, each t] litre (seant (l OZ., g. (2 oz., o2.,22 tablespoons) sugar and oz., * cup) buller. 50 g. butter. (1 and 50 When the liquid is is very conce:ntrated concentrated and the the carrots are glazed, arrange them in aa dish and and sprinkle with chopped sprinkle with glazed, them in parsley. parsley. Old carrOis carrots can be used cut them used for this preparation preparation but eut into strips, and blanch in salted boiling cooking boiling water before cooking them with the other ingredients. Ingredients. Sometimes Vichy water is cooking liquor, as the cooking is used as liquor, or Sometimes a light of soda is added to plain water, Iight pinch of of bicarbonate bicarbonate of water.

recipe.

Carrots aux aux filles fines herbes herbes 1. c.morrns AUX Aux FlNES I. CAROTTES FrNEs HERBES HERBES -(see below). in the same way as as for for Glazed Glazed carrois the sa canots (sec Proceed in me way parsley and with chopped Sprinkle with chopped parsley and chervil. chervil. Sprinkle aux fines herbes II. II. CAROTTES cenorrns AUX AUx F1NES fines herbes FrNEs HERBES HERBEs -Carrots SIlX Pare and and slice slice sorne some tender carrots. carrots. Blanch Blanch for minutes, for 55 minutes, Pare drain, and and cook cook in in ila liule little butter. butter. Season with salt Season with salt and and a drain, pinch of of sugar, sugar, and parsley and and sprînkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and pinch chervil. chervi!. Carrot flan flan or or tart. tfft. FLAN FLAN AUX AUX CAROTTES cARorus -- Partly Partly fill fill the Carrot bottom of of aa baked baked pastry shell with aa slightly sweetened shell with bottom pur6e of of carroIs. carrots. Cover with with finely finely sliced carrots carrots which have already already been been cooked cooked according according to instructions for to Înstructions for (see below). caruots (see below). Boil Boil down down the liquor in in which the liquor Glazed carrOIs pour itit OVer the carrots have been and pour over the the flan. flan. Sel Set the been cooked and in aa hot hot aven oven for in for a few few minutes. flan can be prepared with a greater This flan greater quantity quantity of sugar be prepared as aa sweet. as Glazed carrots. cLActEs -- Pare cARorrEs GLACÉES Pare sorne some young Glue
CARVING. CARVING. p6coupecs DÉCOUPAGE - The The action actÎon of cutting up up meat, poultry, poultry, game, game. etc. etc. to 10 serve at table. table. In In former times, the carving of carried out of meat meat was was considered a a noble noble art, art, carried solely by high officials officiais of royal or princely households who were known as dcuyers (esquires) as écuyers (esquires) tranchants. IranchalIIs. In royal households, the écuyer icayer ftanchant Iranchalll was was usually a

nobleman nobleman and and he he always always carried carried out out his his duties duties with wÎth his sword at his side. The art of skilful carving carving was considered essential essential by our forefathers forefalhers and was was taught to well-born young men as as an indispensable part part of good good education. The last last tutor proprovided for young noblemen was a master of carving. For for a long long time in in French society society the carving carving and serving of of food was carried out by the head of the household, who regarded regarded itil as a matter of honour to carve skilfully. skilfully. The Russe, in France France of the the service service it à la la Russe, The introduction introduction in which consists consists of of presenting the diners diners with the the food already carved, carved, has has caused the decline at the French French table table of this gracious custom. The carving of meat meal is now done, done, at least in large restaurants, taurants, by by aa specialist known as the the 'earver'. 'carver' He He may may not not have have the the glamopr glamour of the the Ccuyer écuyer tranchant trQl/cham but but he he has the the statns hdtel, and must status of maitre maître dd'hôtel, must know know his his job job inside insÎde out. out. In In addition addition to lO aa complete complete knowledge knowledge of of anatomy, analomy, he he must have have great manual manual skill skill and physical physical strength, so sa as as to be he able able to to sever sever the the joints joints of the the animals animaIs he he has to to carve. He He must must also also have have an an intimate întimate knowledge knowledge of the the grain and and texture of every piece of of meat meat which which he he has has to lo carye, carve, and and he he texture of must must work work with elegance and and delicacy. delicacy. 190 190

CASKING CASKING

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game, fish, poultry, game, fish, meal. meat. carving poultry, Ways of carving Duck;5.5. Turkey;4. l. Chicken; Chicken;2. Goose;3. 1. 2. Goose; 3. Turkey; 4. Duck; 9. 8. Woodcock; Woodcock ; 9. Pigeon ; 6. 7. Partridge; Partridge; 8. Teal ; 7. 6. Teal; Pigeon; 13. Lobster; 13. ll. Salmon; Salmon;12. Turbot; 10. 10. Sole; Sole; II. Turbot; 12. Lobster; Legof lamb; 15. Shoulderoflamb; Shoulderof lamb; Hare; 14. Legoflamb; Hare; Ham 18. Ham Loinofveal; Filletofbeef; 16. Loin ofveal; 17. Fillet ofbeef; 18.

rule. ItIt to this this rule. an exception exception to mutton isis an leg of of lamb lamb or or mutton Only Only leg parallel to or at at right right to or in two ways, either either parallel two ways, can can be carved in be carved notn isis always always or not, Ham, whether whether boned boned or angles angles to the bone. bone. Ham, to the if itit isis there. there. the bone bone if vertically, towards towards the carved carved vertically, into Insert the fork into leg. Insert with the the fork the leg. chicken, begin begin with To To carve carve aa chicken, leg as aa lever lever on on the press down it, using using itit as the leg down on on it, the and press the thigh thigh and to sever sever the the sinews. sinews. along the carcase to the carcase knife slides as as the slides along the knife joint. Next, remove the wing. For For Next, remove the wing. of the cartilage of the joint. Sever the cartilage Sever the and feel feel for for the the wing and purpose, insert fork under under the the wing insert the the fork this this purpose, joint with lay the chicken carcase, lay the chicken knife. To To cut cut up up the the carcase, joint with the the knife. in the the fork high high up up in wedging the the fork Hold itit firm firm by by wedging on its back. on its back. Hold lengthwise along along the the breastbone. breastbone. breast. Divide the carcase lengthwise the carcase breast. Divide joint To joint way as as chicken. chicken. To in the same way Nantes is jointed in the same Nantes duck duck isjointed legs, as as for for the two two legs, aa Rouen by detaching detaching the Rouen duck, duck, begin begirt by off the shave off the two two and shave its back back and chicken. Lay the duck on on its chicken. Lay the duck Pressing breastbone. Pressing side of ofthe the breast the breastbone. halves on either either side halves of ofthe breast on into horizontally into fork, cut cut the the breast breast horizontally firmly with the firmly down the fork, down with last of all. removed last of ail. very wings are are removed The wings very thin thin slices. slices. The

A number of restaurant carvers won aa world-wide world-wide have won carvers have A number reputation. founded the the who founded Dugnol, who famous Joseph Joseph Dugnol, reputation. The The famous Taverne Joseph, was aa mas ter in One of of in the art of of carving. carving. One master the art his feats accomaccomone of the the feats thus describes one his contemporaries thus plished by able man: by this this most able 'It was few important for aa few was at aa dinner held by M. Paillard for guests, members of of the spellbound spellbound guests, of the Paris press. In front of Joseph dining-room of of in charge charge of of the the dining-room was in who was Dugnol, who Joseph Dugnol, this while Rouen duckling duckling while carved aa Rouen this famous establishment, carved holding prongs of fork, so so that that there of aa fork, there on the the prongs holding it up impaled on it up was nothing into very very thin duck into thin it. He He carved carved this this duck nothing to support it. fillets all perfect order, dish underunderonto the the dish fell, in in perfect order, onto all of of which feU, neath. 'with admirable admirable adds the the narrator, narrator, 'with neath. And And that,' that,' adds despatch less time than itit takes to tell.' tell.' and in in less time than takes to despatch and Another Fr6d6ric Delair, Delair, the the the celebrated celebrated Frédéric was the Another such such was ter great Frederick was also master Tour d'Argent, who was also aa mas d'Argent, who Frederick of of the the Tour in jointing and poultry, especially and carving carving poultry, especially in the complex art art of ofjointing the complex Rouen gleat speciality his speciality of of his which was was the the great Rouen duckling duckling which restaurant. restaurant. Principles general principle, principle, ail all meat meat As aa general carving -- As of carving hinciples of should grain of meat. of the the meat. vertically, across across the the grain should be carved vertically, be carved The possible. as possible. large and and as as even even as as large The slices must be slices must be as

in milk milk which which substance in CASEIN. Albumenoid substance csEwr -- Albumenoid CASEIN. CASÉINE of which which isis the the isis coagulated fermentation of rennet, the the fermentation coagulated by by rennet, origin cheeses. all cheeses. origin of of ail varieties of of these these CASHEW. There are are different different varieties AcAJou -- There CASHEW. ACAJOU pear cashew culticashew isis cul trees. tias pear known as The type commonly known type commonly trees. The cashew' so-called cashewvated fruit, the theso-calIed Its fruit, regions. Its vated in in the the tropical tropical regions. nut with with white nut tains an nut, an edible edible white contains and con kidney-shaped and nut, isis kidney-shaped called the the part around nut isiscalled aa sweet around this this nut fleshy part The fleshy flavour. The sweet flavour. of whole of cashew-pear, raw throughout the whole throughout the eaten raw which isis eaten cashew-pear, which hasaa countries. ItIt has South European countries. some European and inin sorne America and South America can be be pleasant, withsugar, sugar,itit can Mixed with pleasant, slightly taste. Mixed slightly tart tart taste. refreshing made well asas aa refreshing preserves, as as well made into into excellent excellent preserves, beverage. beverage. produces aakind wine Fermented, kind of ofwine fruit produces cashew-nut fruit the cashew-nut Fermented, the which or known as asanacard anacardor popular in vinegar known which isispopular in Brazil, Brazil, and andaavinegar cashew-nut vinegar. cashew-nut vinegar.

Poultry Poultry shears shears (Cou/eU. (Coutell, André. Phot. Larousse) LaroussQ Andrl. Phot.

CASKING. liquidinto intoaacask. cask. Pouringliquid ENToNNER- - Pouring CASKING. ENTONNER 191 l9l

CASSATA Method of of preparatroz. preparation. 'Wash 'Wash I1 kg. kg. (2* (2* lb., lb., 4| 4t cups) lukewarm water several times and and put it in Carolina rice in lukewarm a large casserole. Cover Coyer with cold co Id water, bring to the boil, allow to boil for a few seconds, and drain. drain. 'Then 'Then cover coYer the the rice with good beef beef stock to about double double its its volume, volume, and and add add some sorne fat-skimmings fat-skimmings from a a chicken chic ken broth. 'Bring to the boil and then draw off the heat, in order order to rernove re)llove more easily easily the the small small amount of scum that will

CASSATA. cASsArE CASSATE - The cassata is an ice ice cream cream block or mould mould consisting consisting of two two differently flavoured fiavoured ice ice creams creams with a a filling of of Chantilly cream cream and and crystallised crystallised fruits fruits (previously soaked in in brandy brandy or or liqueur). liqueur). It It varies varies greatly gteatly in (previously soaked quality and delicacy. delicacy. quality and Plant native native to to the the West West Indies, -- Plant Equatorial Equatorial America, and and Florida, U.S.A. The root, which which

CASSAVA. CASSA VA. MANroc MANIOC

is is a fleshy fleshy tuber, tuber, contains contains edible starch. The sap, containing containing

hydrocyanic hydrocyanic acid, acid, is is poisonous. poisonous. The poison, however, can be be eliminated e1iminated by by fermentation fermentation and cooking. Some Sorne varieties varieties are sweet and do not oot contain poison; they can be be roasted on embers embers and eaten. eaten.

appear. appear.

'Simmerfor about I1 hour, and stir stir so that that the the grains grains burst burst for about 'Simmer Let itit simmer simmer for for another another 20 20 to 25 25 minutes, minutes, and and stir stir it evenly. Let again. When you find find itit is soft soft and and easy easy to crush between between the the again. fingers, take it off the heat. If still hard, add a little more and leave to cook until perfectly perfectly done. Stir it for aa stock and few minutes. minutes. few 'When the the rice rice is is cool, cool, work it well well for a a time time with with a wooden spoon so so that every grain is crushed. It must must be be wooden firm though though malleable. malleable. firm 'Pour out out the the rice rice into into a baking baking tin and and form it into a casserole-shape 12 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to to 55 inches) inches) high, making ma king itit smooth smooth cassprole-shape with the the fingers. fiogers. To decorate decorate it, use use the the point point of of a knife and and with of carrot to to emphasise emphasise the the shape shape of the casserole. casserole. slices of 'Cover 'Coyer the the rice rice with with clarified c1arified butter, butter, and put put in a a hot oyen for for about about 1t hours. hours. The colour col our should should be be a vivid vivid oven yellow. yellow. When When it is is cooked, cooked, remove rem ove the the cover coyer which which you outlined when forming forming the the casserole, casserole, taking taking care care to to remove rem ove outlined ail the the rice rice inside inside which does not not adhere adhere to to the the crust. crust, which which all should be be quite quite thin. thin. should 'Mix 1 tablespoon tablespoon rice rice from from the the interior interior with witb a a little little 'Mix béchamel sauce sauce (if (if the the filling filling is is to to use use this this sauce), or or Spanish Spanish bicharnel (if the the casserole casserole is is to to be be filld filled with with a ragottt ragoût containing containing sauce (rf sauce this), or or any any other other sauce, sauce, and and use use to to garnish garnish the the crust which which this), is filled filled with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is indicated. indicated. Before Before is serving, lightly lightly glaze glaze the the projections projections of the the casserole.' casserole.' serving, (Car6me, Le Phtissier Pâtissier royal.) royal.) (Carême, Le Small casseroles casseroles of of rie riee (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLErrEs CASSEROLETTES Small RIZ - 'These 'These are are made made in in the the same same way way as as casserole casserole of of DE RIz DE rice. ri ce. Place Place them them in in aahot hot oven oyen on on aa metal metal sheet sheet 77 cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) apart. Take Take them them out out when when they they are are all ail aa good good golden golden colour. colour. apart. 'To 'To serve, serve, fill fill them them with with the the appropriate appropriate ragoirt.' ragoût.'

In In South America, America, cassava is is used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of tapioca. tapioca. The The roots roots are are grated, grated, left to ferment ferment and and then then pressed. pressed. The residue, residue, baked baked into into aa flat fiat cake and powdered, powdered, forms forms afarinha afarinha (Portuguese (Portuguese for for meal). meal). The The starch starch of of cassava, cassava, dried dried quickly quickly by by heat heat when when in in a moist moist condition, agglomeragglomerates ates into into small small masses masses known known as tapioca. tapioca. In In Florida, Florida, cassava cassava is is used used as as food food for man man and beast, beast, and and is is used used to to make make starch and and glucose. glucose. CASSE MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) CASSE-MUSEAU (Jawbreaker) -- Very Very hard hard cake, much much in in vogue vogue in in former former times, times, but but hardly hardly ever ever made made today. today. Here Here is is aa recipe recipe for for this this cake, cake, which which dates dates from from 1730: 1730: 'Take 'Take some sorne cream cream cheese, chee se, 4 4 eggs, eggs, 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., *t cup) cup) butter, butter, juice juice of of It lemon, lemon, 300 300 g. g. (ll (11 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) flour flour and and a pinch of salt. salt. Mix Mix these these ingredients ingredients into into a soft paste paste and and pincb of

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leave leave for for aa few few hours. hours. 'Make 'Make the the casse-museaux casse-museaux in in the the form form of of very very small small buns. buns. Bake Bake for for 15 15 minutes minutes at at aa low low temperature. temperature. Split them them open open

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and and put put them them back back in in the the oven oyen to to finish finish baking.' baking.'

CASSEROLE CASSEROLE -- Cooking Cooking utensil utensil made made in in copper, copper, alualuminium, stainless stainless steel, steel, nickel, nickel, or or other other metals; metals; and and also also in in minium, terracotta, terracotta, fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, tempered tempered glass, glass, and and enamenamelled elled cast-iron, cast-iron. Many Many are are decorative decorative enough enough to to use use as as serving serving dishes. dishes. Casseroles Casseroles are are usually usually made made in in aa rounded rounded form, form, with with one one

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or or two two handles. handles. When When deep-sided, deep-sided, as as is is most most common common in in U.S.A., U.S.A., they they are are used used in in the the oven; oYen; when when shallow-sided, shallow-sided, they they are are normally normally called called sautoirs, sautoirs, sauteuses, sauteuses, plats plats dà sauter sauter (saut6 (sauté pan pan or or frying frying pan). pan).

CASSIA. cAssE CASSE -- Pod Pod of of aa leguminous leguminous plant plant divided divided into into CASSIA. compartments, each each enclosing enc10sing a a fairly fairly large large seed, seed, sursurcompartments, rounded by by aa brownish brownish pulp, pulp, which which is is sweet, sweet, slightly slightly acid, acid, rounded that of of the the prune. prune. with aa flavour flavour resembling resembling that with This pulp pulp has has laxative laxative properties. properties. When When sieved sieved itit forms forms This the casse casse mondCe mondée of of the the past. past. the

CASSEROLE -- In In French French cooking cooking the the term term casserole casserole also also CASSEROLE denotes denotes a a preparation preparation generally generally made made with with rice, rice, which, which, after after cooking, cooking, is is fashioned fashionoo in in the the shape shape of of aa casserole, casserole, or or aa timbale. timbale. Casseroles Casseroles are are also also made made with with a a preparation preparation of of duchess duchess potatoes. potatoes. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. aa casserole casserole isis aa dish dish made made of of two two or or more more parts, parts, the basis basis of of which which can can be, be, besides besides rice, ri ce, any any pasta pasta (macironi, (macaroni, the spaghetti, spaghetti, etc.) etc.) with with meat meat or or fish fish plus plus aa sauce sauce or or gravy, gravy, and and vegetables. vegetables. This This one-dish one-dish meal meal can can be be prepared prepared in in advance advance and and served served in in aa decorative decorative casserole. casserole. Fi[ings Fillings for for rice rice casseroles. casseroles. cARNrruREs GARNITURES pouR POUR cAssERoLES CASSEROLES AU AU Rrz RIZ - All All the the fillings fillings indicated indicated elsewhere elsewhere for for timbales, timbales, small small pbtty patty shells shells or or vol-au-vent vol-au-vent can can be be used used for for this this entrie. entrée. Casseroles Casseroles can can also also be be filled filled with with various various minced minced meats meats

CASSIS -- Picturesque Picturesque fishing fishing port port and and commune commune of of CASSIS Bouches-du-Rhône, which which has has given given its its name name to to highly highly Bouchesdu-Rh6ne, esteemed red, red, white white and and ros6 rosé wines. wines. (See (See PROVENCE.) PROVENCE.) esteemed

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(poultry, (poultry, game, game, etc.),fricassies etc.),fricassées of of fowl fowl with with trufres, truffies, various various preparations preparations of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffied trufHed foie foie gras gras esand with with all ail kinds kinds of of ragofrts ragoûts and and salpicons. salpicons. calopes, and calopes,

i

Rice Rice casserole casserole à I'ancienne l'ancienne (CarGme's (Carême's recipe). recipe). cAssERoLE CASSEROLE AU AU RIz RIZ AÀ t'aNcrENxn L'ANCIENNE -'The - 'The rice rice casserole casserole isis as as elegant elegant as as itit isis

rich; rich; its its shape shape and and appetising appetising appearance appearance give give itit aa distinct distinct character; character; itit isis certainly certainly the the most most arresting arresting entrie entrée cooked cooked in in the oven. oyen. the 'For 'For aa dinner dinner which which includes includes eight eight entries, entrées, one one prefers prefersto to serve aa handsome handsome casserole casserole of of rice ri ce rather rather than than aa hot bot pdti pâté serve or or vol-au-venl, vol-au-vent, and and such such aa preference preference isis right right for for the the casserole casserole isis the the most most attractive attractive of of the the coloured coloured enties. entrées.

Manufactureofofcassis, cassis, Dijon Dijon(French (French Government Governmenl Tourist Tourisl Ofrce) Office) Manufacture

r92 192

CASSOULET CASSOULET seven must be done done six six times. Serve Serve after after breaking breaking the the crust crust seven times. A Languedoc this this is is called called a a haricot haricot A royal royal feast; feast; in in Languedoc cream or or cassoulet.' cassoulet.' comique Anatole France loved loved the the cassoulet.ln cassoulet. In Histoire Histoire comique he wrote: wrote: Vavin, in the rue Vavin, 'I'1 am going going to lead lead you you to to aa little little tavern tavern in the rue but a stupendous one dish, dish, but only makes chez Climence, Clémence, who only makes one a stupendous legs of contains of which con de Castelnaudary, one: le one: le cassoulet de Castelnaudary, which tains legs (preserved goose), goose), haricot confit confit d'oie d'oie (preserved haricot beans beans previously previously good it To he it must must be good sausages. blanched, pork pork fat, fat, and little little sa usages. To cdslong time. Cl6mence's castime. Clémence's slowly for have have cooked very very slowly for aa long years. She replenishes She replenishes for twenty twenty years. soulet has been cooking for soulet has pork fat, fat, goose, sometimes with pork sometimes with with goose, sometimes with the the pot pot sometimes is haricots, but but itit is or some some haricots, in aa sausage sausage or sometimes she she puts in sometimes and this remains, and this The basis cassoulet. The basis remains, always same cassoulet. always the the same one gives it it aa savour, savour, which which one and precious substance gives ancient and in the masters, in the old Venetian masters, of the the old finds in in the the paintings finds paintings of you to wish you to taste taste Come, 1I wish women. Come, amber flesh tints of their women. Cl6mence's cassoulet.' Clémence's of Castelnaudary, Castelnaudary, ccssoulets; that of There are three kinds of cassoulets; There and of Toulouse. Carcassonne, and of Carcassonne, differences: following ditferences: have the the following should have The three three types types should The pork, ham, prepared with ham, with fresh fresh pork, that of of Castelnaudary isis prepared that ofCarcassonne ofpork, pork, and fresh bacon skins; that of Carcassonne knuckle of mutton, leg of of mutton, shortened leg of aa shortened addition to to the above of the addition with the has added added breast breast in season; ofToulouse season; that of and partridges in Toulouse has confit confit d'oie d oie or or confit mutton and and confit Toulouse sausage, sausage, mutton of pork, Toulouse de canard. de made is made cassouler is way in in which which the the cassoulet In Languedoc the the way ln it. Some cook the the Some cook is preparing it. whoever is to whoever according to varies according varies together, sausages and sa pork, mutton, skins and mutton, bacon bacon skins usages together, haricots, pork, in the terrine, layers in the terrine, in alterna alternate and then arrange these these in then arrange and te layers bread' of breadsprinkling of with aa thick thick sprinkling surface with covering the the surface covering gently for for to cook cook gently oven to and take take itit to to the the baker's oyen crumbs, and crumbs, hours. some hours. some haricot white haricot Simmer white de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary 1 - Simmer Cassoulet de Cassoulet

CASSOLETTE CASSOLETTE -- Small SmaJl dish dish in fireproof fireproof porcelain, porcelain, metal metal or or fireproof fireproof glass, used used for presenting presenting hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, hot hot or cold, cold, little little entrdes, entrées, and and also also some some desserts. desserts. Duchess potatoes, deep fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out and and stuffed stutfed Duchess potatoes, with with with various various fillings, are are also also called cassolettes. Filled with salpicons salpicons or ragofits ragoûts mixed mixed with with brown or white sauce, they be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or entries. entrées. can be as sweets sweets are are filled filled with creams, creams, various various Cassolettes served as Cassolettes sweetened pastes, or fruits fruits poached poached in syrup. pas tes, or CASSONADE -- French French term for semirefined sugar. sugar. The CASSONADE yellow yellow cane cassonade cassonade has has a a slight flavour fiavour of of rum rum and and is used used in pdtisserie pâtisserie for this this reason. reason. The beet beet cassonade cassonade has rather rather an unpleasant unpleasant taste.

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originates in CASSOULET - Haricot Haricot bean bean stew stew which which originates CASSOLJLET with and mutton, or with Languedoc. It is prepared with pork and goose dish which used goose or duck, duck, in in an an earthenware dish used to to be known as the cassolle d'Issel, from whence whence derives iits ts name. known Franc-Nohain, humorous poet, sang the praises of Languedoc cassoulet in in his his Nouvelle cuisiniire cuisinière bourgeoise. He verse for cassoulef, gives a recipe in verse cassoulet, the the substance of even gives is here: here: which is one, aa leg of see two casseroles. In one, 'On aa moderate fire 1I see (preserved goose goose or duck) duck) as de canard canard (preserved confit d'oie or confit de and loin of mutton, are ribs of pork and weil as little sausages, well sausages, ribs and 2 not forget flavouring, 2 tomatoes and forget the flavouring, browning. Do not white Soissons haricots Meanwhile the onions cut in four. four. Meanwhile the white Let the gently in the cooking are in the utensil. Let other utensil. the other are cooking gently and meat arrange the beans and proceed for 2 hours, and proceed and then arrange in the same earthenware vessel, in such a way that the goose or duck, mutton and distributed between layers of and pork are distributed in the oven. cassoulet in the oyen. haricot beans. beans. After which put the which put the cassoulet haricot golden cru forms, thick thick crust Then on st forms, the dish aa golden on the surface of the the surface the incorporated with the and because it must he be incorporated it, because fat. Break it, and fat. wait until until oven, wait in the the oyen, rest Put itit back back in the ingredients. Put rest of the and this this another crust forms, again must he be broken: broken: and forms, which again

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(Rober tCarrier) Cassoulet Cassoulct(Robert Carrier)

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CASTAGNACI CASTAGNA CI beans and and bacon bacon skins glazed earthenware inaaglazed skins in earthenware pot pot with with the the beans usual seasoning, seasoning, meats, meats, aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables and pinchof andaapinch of usual garlic. garlic. Drain and place them and place them inin an an earthenware earthenware pot pot which which has has Drain been lined lined with with the the fresh fresh bacon bacon skins, skins, knuckle knuckle of pork, of pork, been pork, sa breast of of pork, sausage, and aa leg leg of of confit confit d'oie. d'oie. breast usage, and Sprinkle with with aa layer layer of of coarse coarse breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and add add Sprinkle goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for several hours. good golden When aa good golden crust crust has has formed formed on on the the surface surface of of When the cassoulet cassoulet stir stir itit inin with with aa spoon spoon and and repeat repeat this this 22 or or 33 the times. times. Gourmets like like this this served served with with either either aa fine fine red red Aquitaine Aquitaine Gourmets wine or or with with an an old old Minervois Minervois wine. wine. wine Cassoulet de de Castelnaudary Castelnaudary fi tr -- For For eight people soak eight people soak Cassoulet (If, pints, litre (I~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) dried dried white white haricot haricot beans beans 1I litre for several several hours, hours, but not for for too but not too long long or or they they may may begin begin to to for ferment. Simmer Simmer in in an an earthenware (l l oz.) earthenware pot pot with g. (lI with 300 300 g. oz.) ferment. salt breast (7 oz.) pork, 200 breast of g. (7 of pork, 200 g. oz.) desalted desalted rolled-up rolled-up bacon bacon salt skins, aa carrot, carrot, an an onion onion stuck stuck with with cloves, cloves, and and aa bouquet bouquet skins, garni containing 33 cloves garlic. Season cloves of of gar!ic. Season with with aa very very little little garni containing salt. salt. In another another pan, pan, brown brown in in lard lard or goose fat, (lft lb.) g. (1 or goose fat,750 lb.) 750 g. In loin of pork and of pork and 500 g. (generous I lb.) boned loin of mutton, 500 g. (generous lib.) boned loin of mutton, loin well seasoned seasoned with with salt pepper. Add salt and and pepper. Add 22 medium-sized medium-sized weil chopped on garni and onions, bouquet garni and 22 crushed crushed cloves cloves of of chopped ions, aa bouquet garlic. Continue Continue cooking cooking with with the lid on the !id gravy or on and and add add gravy or garlic. beef stock stock from from time time to to time. time. beef When the haricots are the haricots are nearly nearly cooked, cooked, remove remove the the carrot, carrot, When onion, and and bouquet garni, and bouquet garni, put in and put in the pork, mutton, the pork, mutton, aa onion, garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, dnd a garlic sausage, a leg of confit d'oie or confit de canard, and a home-made sausage. sausage. Sim gently for Simmer for 1I hour. hour. home-made mer gently pieces of Remove the the pieces meat from of meat from the the haricot beans. Cut Cut Remove haricot beans. pork, mutton the pork, mutton and goose into and goose slices of of equal equal size, size, cut cut the the the into slices bacon skins skins into pieces, the garlic skinned gar!ic bacon into rectangular rectangular pieces, the skinned sausage and and the sausage into slices. the sausage into slices. sausage Put into earthenware pot lined with skins, Put into aa large large earthenware pot lined with bacon bacon skins, of haricot haricot beans beans and and then then aa layer layer of of thc th" various various meats meats aalayer layer of with alternate layers, of their their sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the pot pot with with alternate layers, with some sorne of seasoning On seasoning each each one one with with a a little little freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. On the the last last layer layer of of haricots haricots lay lay slices slices of of salt salt pork, pork, bacon bacon skins, skins, and slices of and slices of garlic garlic sausage. sausage. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and pour pour over over them them aa goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about l] hours. little little goose fat. Cook gently in the oven for about It hours. Serve Serve the the cassoulet cassoulet in in the the pot pot in in which which itit has has cooked. cooked. There There are are other other Languedocian Languedocian cassoulets, cassoulets, that that of of Luchon, Luchon, for example, which pistache. is called for example, which is called pistache.

(A LA) CATALANE LA) -- Garnish Garnish for for large large pieces pieces of of meat meat CAT ALANE (A composed of of aubergines aubergines sautéed saut6ed in in oil, pilaf of oil, and and pilaf of rice. rice. composed (SeeGARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) (See CATECHU. CACHOU cAcHou -- Thick Thick sap sap which which cornes comes from from aa CATECHU. variety of of lndian Indian acacia. acacia. Areca (betel nut). Areca catechu cotechu (betel nut). The variety The catechu isis found found inin compact, compact, crumbly, crumbly, irregular irregular masses masses catechu which are are brownish brownish on on the the outside outside and and reddish-brown reddish-brown on which on inside. ItIt should the inside. should neither neither stick itick to to the the tongue tongue nor nor tint tint the the the saliva red. red. saliva Its taste, taste, at at first first bitter bitter and and astringent, astringent, becomes becomes sweet sweet Its and clean clean without without any any smel!. smell. The The most prized varieties most highly highly prized varieties and come from from Sri Sri Lanka Lanka and and Burma, Burma, the latter having the latter having medicinal medicinal come properties. properties. The catechu catechu contains contains aa strong proportion of strong proportion of tannin, tannin, The gives itit astringent which gives astringent properties. properties. which

Catfish Catfish

porssoN-cHAr - American CATFISH. river fish fish found prinCA TFISH. POISSON-CHAT - American river cipally in in the the Mississippi basin. basin. It It has six bar barbels cipally has six bels or feelers around the the mou mouth from 30 (12 to 30 to to 60 60 cm. cm. (12 to 24 around th reaching from inches) in in length. length. The flesh is is delicate and and there there are not too inches) manv bones. many bones.

A

B

CASTAGNACI CASTAGNACI (Corsican (Corsican cookery) cookery) -- Thick Thick fritters fritters or or waffies made with chestnut flour. waffies made with chestnut flour.

Cat Cat and aDd rabbit rabbit bones: bones: A. of rabbit: Hindlimbofrabbit; A. Hindlimb B. B. Hindlimb Hindlimb of ofcat; cat; C. C. Forelimbofcat; Forelimbofcat; D. rabbit D. Forelimb Forelimb of ofrabbit

preparation CASTIGLIONE CASTIGLIONE (A (A LA) LA) -- Preparation of of small small pieces pieces of of

meat. meaL The The Castiglione Castiglione garnish garnish consists consists of of large large mushrooms mushrooms stuffed stuffed with with rice rice and and browned browned in in the the oven, oven, aubergines aubergines saut6ed in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow- (see sautéed in butter, and slices of poached beef marrow (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES).

CASTRATE. CASTRATE. cuArnrn CHÂTRER -- Castration Castration of of animals animais destined destined for their fattening. fattening. for the the butcher, butcher, to to hasten hasten their The The word word chdtrer châtrer is is also also applied applied to to ihe the removal removal of of the the intestines intestines of ofcrayfish crayfish (U.S. (U .S. crawfish) crawfish) before before cooking. cooking. In In order order

to to do do this this the the central central part part of of the the tail tail is is pinched pinched and and the the

intestines intestines emerge. emerge. CAT. cH,c,r CAT. CHAT -- Domestic Domestic cat cat whose whose edible edible meat meat has has aa flavour flavour halfway halfway between between that that of of rabbit rabbit and and hare. hare. Cat's Cat's meat rneat has has often periods been eaten in of famine famine or or siege. siege. Legend Legend has has often been eaten in periods of itit that that in in the the cook-shops cook-shops the the cat cat isis often often used used in in the the making ma king of of rabbitfricassies. rabbit fricassées. Examination Examination of ofthe the bones bones would would easily easily enable of doubt, doubt, to to distinguish distinguish between between the the enable one, one, in in case case of two animals. two animais.

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CAULIFLOWER CAULIFLOWER or noisette cHouCauliflower with Cauliflower with brown butter butter or noisette butter. butter. CHOUcauliflower florets in salted - Boil the cauliflower in the shape of a dome. water and and arrange them on aa dish in and lemon Cover with Sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sprinkle lemon juice. juice. Coyer (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Combutter (see Brown butter butter or with Noisette butter pound butters.) m CRÈME cnErvrn -- Cook cream. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR A Cauliflower Cauliflower with cream. À LA above, drain, and and toss described above, the cauliflower cauliflower in the way described in their original form. their original in Rearrange the the florets butter. Rearrange florets in in butter. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Crearn Cover with aa Cre Coyer am sauce sauce (see EN FRITOTS FRITors -- Cook the Cauliflower fritters. fritters. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR EN Cauliflower water, keeping them rather florets in in salted salted water, cauliflower florets keeping them in oil, oil, lemon and soak them 30 minutes in Drain, and firm. them for firm. Drain, for 30 juice, pepper. and pepper. chopped parsley, parsley, salt and juice, chopped (see BATTER). in BATTER). Fry Fry in in aa light light batter Dip the Dip the florets florets in batter (see Serve with tomato fried parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with fried deep fat and parsley. Serve sauce. sauce.

P or KETCHUP -- Condiment of English CATSUP English origin, origin, CATST widely used in England England and and U.S.A. It has has a a tomato used both in base and is highly spiced. spiced.

FLET;R FLEUR AU BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -

CAUF. BANNEToN BANNETON - Receptacle Receptacle with with holes holes which permits permits CAUF. fish to be kept alive in water. This term is also used usee! to describe a baker's bread basket. basket. CAUL. cntprhrr CRÉPINE - Membrane Membrane enclosing the paunch paunch of enclosing the CALTL. animaIs, applied applied particularly to to that that of pork and and mutton. animals, In French, this is also called toilette. CHOU-FLEUR -- Vegetable Vegetable of CAULIFLOWER. cHou-FLEUR of oriental oriental origin, known known in Italy since the sixteenth sixteenth century. A delicate

food which must always always be bought when when its leaves are green. This is is an an indication of freshness. The leaves leaves are are edible. CHOU-FLEUR A À r'lNcrArsn L'ANGLAfSE - Boil Boiled cauliflower. cauliflower. cHou-FLEUR Boiled Boil a drain and and serve with melted in salted water, drain cauliflower in salted water. serve with butter. butter. According to the English Engl.ish method aa cauliflower served in way must must be be cooked whole, whole, with with two this way rows of tender two rows leaves enveloping the flower-head. The leaves, ribs, The ribs, and not be be wasted. wasted. They and stems should not are excellent trimmed and cookee! cooked with the white part. They excellent trimmed can also be used for soup, can also soup, hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, etc. etc.

gratin au gratin Cauliflower Cauliflower au

GRATIN -- Cook Cook the au gratin. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR AU AU GRATIN Cauliflower au and in boiling salted water, water, drain drain them, them, and cauliflower florets in boiling salted cauliflower florets gratin dish dish and and in butter. Arrange on on aa buttered buttered gratin toss toss gently in (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with coyer sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay Mornay sauce cover with oven. in the grated chee and brown brown in the oyen. grated se and and melted melted butter, butter, and cheese rrtIt,c,NAIsE -rl MILANAISE cnou-rrsuR ÀA LA Cauliflower àI la la milanaise. milanaise. CHOU-FLEUR drain water, drain in boiling salted salted water, Cook florets in Cook the cauliflower florets the cauliflower grated Pargently in Parwith grated and in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with and toss toss them them gently oven. When When in the Brown in mesan melted butter. butter. Brown the oyen. cheese and and melted mesan cheese (see BUTTER, BUTTER, pour on Noisette butter butter (see serving, little Noisette serving, pour on aa little Compound Compound butters). butters). in MoRNAY -- Prepared Prepared in Cauliflower Mornay. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR MORNAY Cauliflower Mornay. gratin. the me way &t gratin. way as as Cauliflower Cauliflower au the sa same pAIN DE in the Made in the Cauliflower DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Made mould. PAfN Cauliflower mould. pur6e of of with aa purée same Endive loaf(see ENDIVE) but but with same way way as as Endive loaf (see ENDIVE) ca uliflower. cauliflower. PoLoNAISE -Cauliflower i, LA LA POLONAISE la polonaise. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-TLEUR À Cauliflower ài la and sprinkle sprinkle Arrange on aa buttered dish and Arrange cooked cauliflower on buttered dish cooked cauliflower yolks mixed with chopped chopped mixed with with egg yolks with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled egg (see parsley. Pour Noisette butter butter (see parsley. cauliflower Noisette Pour over over the the cauliflower fried in which which have have been been fried BUTTER, butters) in BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) (4 oz., g. (4 per 100 g. (1(l oz., 100 g. oz., !I 25 25 g. fresh breadcrumbs oz., tI cup) cup) fresb breadcrumbs per frothy. cup) at once; should be be frotby. cup) butter. Serve at once; the the butter butter should butter. Serve

Cauliflower, Cauliflower, whole and flower and with flower head detached (right), which isis the only only detached (right), part generally generally used used for for consurnption consumption

(cold). CHOU-FLEUR BoiIed with various variors sauces sauc€s (cold). cHou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower with into florets, florets, cook cook them in cauliflower into them in the cauliflower - Divide the salted put tbem cold tap. water, drain, and put the cold tap. under the drain, and salted water, them under Arrange in their form. Serve Serve with Arrange the florets in their original original form. the Borets Vinaigrette sauce, cold sauce Mayonnaise or or sorne some other other cold sauce sauce, Mayonnaise (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). (hot). CHOU-FLEUR Boiled with various variors sauces sauces (hot). cttou-FLEUR Boiled cauliflower cauliflower with BOUILLI into florets, florets, trim, and boil boil cauliflower into trim, and BourLLr -- Divide the the cauliflower them in their in salted Drain, and and arrange arrange them them in their water. Drain, them in salted water. original form. Garnish with fresh fresh parsley. original form. Garnish with Serve for melted butter butter or or one one of of the the usual usual sauces sauces for with melted Serve with boiled White sauce, sauce, etc. etc. vegetables: Cream, Hollanldaise, White boiled vegetables: Cream, Hollandaise, (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). BOUILLI BourLLI -

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CAVAILLON CAVAILLON punfr DE pur6e. PURÉE Cauliflower purée. DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Cook Cook and and CauliOower drain aa caulifiower, cauliflower, dry for aa moment moment inin the dry itit for the oyen, oven, and and drain pass itit through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add one-quarter one-quarter of of its its weight weight of of pass potato purée, pur6e, and and heat. heat. Mix Mix inin fresh fresh cream, cream, butter and butter and potato seasoning. seasoning. Cauliflower sai salad. sALADE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Boil Boil aa caulicauliCauliflower ad. SALADE flower in in salted salted water, water, and and drain. drain. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, flower juice, salt lemon juice, pepper. Sprinkle salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. lemon Cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR SAUTÉ slur6 AU eu CauliOower BEURRE -- Blanch Blanch cauliflower cauliflower florets, florets, drain, drain, and and cook cook in in BEURRE butter until lightly browned. until lightly browned. Arrange Arrange in in aa dish pour dish and and pour butter the butter butter over. over. the Cauliflower soufflé. sorffd. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR -- Prepare Prepare Cauliflower with cauliflower cauliflower boiled boiled in in salt salt water. water. Pass Pass itit through fine through aa fine with in the (see CHICORY, sieve, in same way as for for Chicory the same way as Chicory soufflé CHICORY, sou,ffii (see sieve, ENDTVE). ENDIVE). Stalks and and stumps stumps of of cauliflower. cauliflower. MOELLE MoELLE DE DE CHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR Stalks Trim the the stalks stalks or removing the or stumps, stumps, removing woody outer outer the woody -- Trim casing. Blanch Blanch whole whole if if they they are with the vegeare to to be be served served with the vegecasing. are to table. If If they they are be cooked cooked separately, separately, cut to he pieces. cut into into pieces. table. After blanching, these prepared these stalks stalks and and stumps stumps can can be be prepared After in the way as the same same way as artichoke artichoke stalks stalks or or endive endive stumps. stumps. in

The baby baby sturgeons sturgeons rapidly rapidly struggle from the freefrom struggle free fertile the fertile The eggs and, and, after after aa three-month period inin the place of three-month period theplace of their their eggs birth, descend descend to mouth of of the to the the mouth riverwhere wherethey remain the river they remain birth, years. They for several several years. They then move toto the andlive livethere then move thesea sea and for there grown, returning returning toto the until fully fully grown, river only only when the river when they until they reach the age of reproduction. the age of reproduction. reach At one one time, time, the the Cossacks Cossacks of of the Ural River River harpooned harpooned the Ural At holes in fish through the fish through holes in the the ice, ice, thus thus obtaining obtaining the first the the first year. This yellowy-gold caviare caviare of of the This yellowy-gold the year. caviare was was superior superior caviare gift worthy rest, aa gift all the to ail the rest, Tsar, to preworthy of of the whomthey the Tsar, to whom they preto it. sented it. sented Extracting the caviare isis aa knack knack acquired the caviare acquired only only through Extracting through Immediately the gutted (while (while fish isiscaught, experience. Immediately the fish caught, itit isisgutted experience. still alalive, and after after having having let let its its blood still ive, and blood through through an an incision incision under the the caudal caudal fin fin so as to so as to diminish its reactions). reactions). The under diminish its The are immediately immediately extracted eggs are placed on extracted and and placed eggs on aa special special sieve sieve washed, drained, to be be washed, drained, and and salted. salted. to perfected aa type Soviet scientists scientists have have perfected Soviet of Caesarian type of Caesarian operation for for sturgeons possible for sturgeons that makes itit possible operation that makes for them them to to be thrown thrown back into the river alive back into the river alive and and recommence recommence the be the reproduction cycle. cycle. reproduction process, Iran Whatever the the process, Iran and proand Russia, Russia, the Whatever the biggest biggest producers, offer offer three three types types of of caviare: cavi4re: ducers, malossol -- A plump, Caviare firm, plump, Caviare malossol A fresh fresh caviare caviare with with firm, packed in sparkling eggs eggs packed in specially sparkling lasso 1 specially treated treated tins. tins. Ma Malossol 'slightly salted' means 'slightly Russia. salted' in in Russia. means Fresh salted Fresh salted caviare caviare -- From From both Russia and and Iran. both Russia Iran. ItIt isis prepared using prepared using eggs eggs collected collected during during the the hot hot season. season. Packed Packed (132 lb.) in in casks casks which which contain contain approximately kg. (132 approximately 60 lb.) 60 kg. caviare. It It isis difficult difficult to in Europe. caviare. to find find in Europe. Pressed the fishing at the Pressed caviare caviare -- Prepared Prepared at fishing season. the end end of ofthe season. It It consists consists of mass of of aa dense of crushed crushed black dense mass black eggs eggs which which are are jars. packed in glass jars. in small packed small glass production of French French annual annual production of caviare caviare does does not not amount amount to to (which at more more than than 33 tons, tons, and and the the sturgeon sturgeon (which at one one time time was was even even caught caught in rare. in the and more more rare. the Seine) Seine) is is becoming becoming more more and Depending Depending upon yields upon its its age age and and size, size, aa female female sturgeon sturgeon yields (9 to anything anything from from 44 to 16 kg. kg. (9 lb.) eggs. to 16 to 35 eggs. The The average average 35 lb.) yield per (13 lb.) per fish yield in the the Gironde Gironde isis 66 kg. kg. (13 lb.) Eaten fish caught caught in Eaten lightly lightly salted salted aa few few days days after after being being fished, fished, French French caviare caviare is is delicious. Gourmets Gourmets eat eat caviare caviare as as itit is, is, without without toast toast or or butter, butter, juice. simply on juice. simply adding aa sprinkling lemon sprinkling of of lem There qualities of There are are different different qualities of caviare caviare and and many many other other fishes' fishes' eggs are sold eggs are commercially under sold commercially under the the name name of of ('salmon caviare', 'caviare' 'caviare' ('salmon caviare', for for example), example), but but the the term term 'caviare' on its own can on its can only be be used used to to designate products based based on on sturgeon roe.

CAVAILLON -- Little Little town in the Vaucluse district town in the Vaucluse district which which CAVAILLON given its has given (see MELON). its name name to variety of to aa variety of melon melon (see MELON). has CAVEAU Small cellar, cellar, sometimes sometimes reserved for for fine fine wines. wirres. CA VEAU -- Small

CAVEAU(LE)society, bacchic and gastronomic. and gastronomic. CAVEAU .t'LE) - Literary society, in 1729 by Piron, Piron, Collé, Coll6, Gallet Gallet and and Crébillon Cr6billonfils. Founded in fils. CAVIARE. cAvrAR -- The The roe roe of the the sturgeon sturgeon family, family, lightly lightly CA VIARE. CAVIAR salted saI ted or marinated. is the 'fruit' of the 'fruit' of the the sturgeon, sturgeon, aa migra migratory fish, of of Caviare is tory fish, which there there are are aa dozen dozen or or so so different different varieties, varieties, each each which belonging to one of two two species. species. That That found found in in the Gironde sturio. is Acipenser sturio. The sturgeon sturgeon lives lives in in coastal coastal waters waters and and in in the the spring, spring, The it swims up up the rivers to spawn. The time when fully grown, it of this migratory the temperature of migra tory movement depends upon the of the water, which itself depends upon upon the the severity severity of the of preceding win winter and the the melting snows. It It usually usually takes ter and melting snows. place sometime between March and and July. The females year) search their eighth eighth or or ninth ninth year) The females (then (then in in their for a deep sandy pool in the upper reaches reaches of ofthe the river where the water is fresh; fresh; while the males (from six to to seven seven years onwards) love pursuit, pursuit, escorting the of love onwards) engage in in a a kind kind of females to the spawning grounds.

CA VOUR (À (A LA) -- Method of preparing preparing small CAVOUR pieces of small pieces of meat, meat, especially especially veal veal escalopes escalopes and and calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. These are served on circles of polenta, garnished garnished with grilled grilled pur6e of mushrooms and and filled filled with with aa purée livers and of chicken livers and slices of truffie.

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YENNE PEPPER CA PEPPER CAYENNE pimenta. pimento.

See pepper or See PEPPER, PEPPER, Red Red pepper or

CELERIAC or CELERY ROOTS. CÉLERI-RA VE CELERIAC cfr-rRr-n^q,w

- Celeriac - Celeriac is a variety variety of of celery which has has a large edible edible root. Wash and

celeriac. Divide into quarters and pare the celeriac. and cut cut into into pieces or large slices. Blanch them for for 5 minutes in in boiling salted salted water, plunge into cold water, water, drain, water, drain, and and wipe wipe dry. dry. Cook Cook them in butter, adding a little littIe white stock or water. All Ali the are applicable to recipes for branch celery are to celeriac. The following recipes can also be be applied to this this vegetable. The vegetable. JULIENNE oE DE CÉLERI-RAVE Celeriac julienne. JULTENNE cfrenl-nAvE - Used Used as as aa celeriac, wash and cut it into matchgarnish. Pare a root of celeriac, or julienne julienne strips. Put them into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which stick or

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Caviare ((Pelrossian. Phal. Nicolas) C.attlare Petossian. Phot.

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CELERY CELERY Celery Celery contains contains an an essential essential oil, oil, which which isis highly highly aromatic. aromatic. According According to to the the different different varieties, varieties, either either the the stems, stems, elonelon-

I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Add Add salt salt and and aa little little powdered powdered sugar, sugar, and and cook cook slowly. slowly. Celeriac Celeriac purde. purée. punrn PURÉE or DE cfrnru-Rlvs CÉLERI-RAVE -- Garnish Garnish for for large large or or small small pieces pieces of of meat. meat. The The pur6e purée isis prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as for for Cardoon Cardoon purie purée (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). Salpicon of of celeriac. celeriac. sALPIcoN SALPICON os DE cErrRI-nAvE CÉLERI-RAVE - Cut Cut the the Salpicon celeriac into into squares, squares, blanch blanch in in salted salted water, water, drain, drain, and and celeriac cook cook in in butter. butter. Stuffed celeriac celeriac ilà la la paysanne. paysanne. cfr,Eru-nc,vE CÉLERI-RAVE A À uq. LA p.lvslNNe PAYSANNE Stuffed - Used Used as as a a garnish. garnish. Pare Pare and and slice slice 2 2 oeleriac celeriac roots roots into into rounds rounds 33 cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Blanch Blanch for for 55 minutes minutes in in salted salted water, into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and dry dry in in aa cloth. clotho Scoop Scoop water, plunge plunge into its depth. aa hollow hollow in in each each slice slice to to half halfits depth. Dice Dice the the pulp pulp which which has has been been hollowed hollowed out, out, and and add add double double the the quantity quantity of of carrot and and onion onion brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) sautéed in in butter butter and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. saut6ed Stuff the the celeriac slices with this this mixture. mixture. Put Put them tbem in in aa buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, dust dust them them with with grated grated cheese, cheese, buttered sprinkle with melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in aa moderate moderate oven' oyen. sprinkle All used for tomatoes tomatoes and artichoke hearts hearts Ali the stuffings used be applied applied to celeriac. celeriac. can also be

gated gated by by trussing trussing or or culture cultrne in in the the dark, dark, or or the the roots roots (celeriac) (celeriac) are are eaten. eaten. Both Both are are eaten eaten raw raw in in salad, salad, or or cooked. cooked.

The The Loire Loire Valley Valley is is the the principal principal region region of of French French proproduction. duction. Celery Celery has has diuretic diuretic and and appetite-stimulating appetite-stimulating properties. properties. Celery Celery juice juice is is rich rich in in Vitamins Vitamins A A and and C. C.

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BRANCH BRANCH (FORCED) (FORCED) CELERY. CELERY. cfrnru CÉLERI EN EN BRANcHBS BRANCHES -Trim Trim off off the the upper upper branches brancbes of of the the celery, celery, keeping keeping only only the the tender tender parts. parts. Remove Remove the the green green outer outer stems stems and and trim trim the the run to water allowing root. root. Wash Wash the the base base of of the the celery, celery, allowing water to run

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between between the the stems stems so so that that all ail earth earth or or other other foreign foreign matter matter is is washed washed away. away. Pare Pare the the outer outer stems stems to to remove remove the the fibres. fibres.

Blanch Blanch the the celery celery in in boiling boiling salted salted water water for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Plunge Plunge into into cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and and wipe wipe dry' dry. Spread Spread out out on on aa cloth, cio th, open open the the stems stems slightly slightly and and season season inside. inside. Tie Tie them them together, together, 22 or or 33 at at aa time, time, and and put put them them in in aa deep deep casserole casserole which which is is already already buttered buttered and and lined lined with with Cover carrots. and sliced bacon bacon rinds, rinds, chopped chopped onions onions and sliced carrots. Coyer with with white white stock stock from from which which not not all ail the the fat fat has has been been skimmed, skimmed,

or or with with beef beef stock. stock. Begin Begin cooking cooking on on the the stove, stove, then then remove rem ove the the pan pan to to the the at a oven oyen and and cook cook for for l] 1t hours hours at a low low temperature. temperature. au maigre Celery Celery can can be be cooked cooked au maigre (without (without meat) meat) by by omitomitstock with replacing the and replacing rinds and ting ting the the bacon bacon rinds the stock with water. water. sfcHlMEL -cELERIS A sauce. CÉLERIS with b6chamel Celery with Celery béchamel sauce. À rl LA BÉCHAMEL each and halve drain, and Braise Braise the the celery, celery, drain, halve it it lengthways. lengthways. Fold Fold each l0 for 10 and sim simmer in aa buttered put in buttered pan portion in half, half, put portion in pan and mer for (see too thick thick (see sauce -- not Bichamel sauce with Béchamel Cover with minutes. minutes. Coyer not too minutes. few minutes. again for for aa few Simmer SAUCE). Sim SAUCE). mer again and Trim, wash, wash, and BEURRE -- Trim, cELERIs AU in butter. butter. CÉLERIS Celery in Celery AU BEURRE Halve water. Halve in salted salted water. l0 minutes minutes in for 10 heads for celery heads blanch celery blancb in aa portion in in two. Place in two. Place each portion and bend bend each lengthways and them lengthways them few tabletablewith aa few pan, season, and moisten moisten with season, and well-buttered pan, well-buttered for 45 45 minutes minutes covered, for Cook, covered, water. Cook, or water. white stock stock or spoons white spoons

hour. or 1I horn. or and shorten shorten Pare and A LA CRÈME cniue -- Pare cfrnp.ls À with cream. cream. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery from fibres from the fibres remove tbe and remove Wash them them and celery. Wash of celery. heads of heads plunge water, plunge boiling water, in salted salted boiling Blanch in stems. Blanch outside stems. the outside the drY. and dry. drain, and water, drain, into cold cold water, into in aa wellwellarrange them them in lengthways, arrange Halve the heads lengthways, the heads Halve (or with with light bouillon bouillon (or with aa light pan, season, and coyer cover with season, and buttered pan, buttered maigre)' au maigre). you want serve them them au want to to serve if you water if water put itit in for pan and in the the oyen oven for and put the pan Cover the Bring to to the the boil. boil. Coyer Bring and pieces in in half, half, and the pieces celery, bend bend the the celery, Drain the hour. Drain about 1I hour. about down. and boil boil itit down. liquor, skim, skim, and the liquor, place on dish. Strain Strain the on aa dish. place sauce B6chamel sauce cup) Béchamel scant I cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (3(3 tablespoons, Add to to itit t+ dl. Add (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (| pint, fresh cream. cream. thick fresh pint, seant cup) thick scant cup) dl. (1 with 22 dl. Moisten with Moisten Mix, strain, strain, butter. Mix, add 1I tablespoon tablespoon butter. and add half and Boil down down by by balf Boil the celery. celery. pour this over the sauce and porn this sa and uce over rl' (cold hors cfreRJs ÀA LA d'cuvre). CÉLERIS hon d'œuvre). grecque (cold Celery à lala grecque Celery quarters into quarters well, divide divide into wash weil, heads, wash Trim celery celery heads, cREceuE -- Trim GRECQUE fot Artichokes Artichokes àh described for manner described prepare them in the the manner them in and prepare and (see ARTICHOKE). grecque (see ARTICHOKE). lala grecque The same as same as I'ITAIIENNe cfrnrus ÀA L'IT l'italienne. CÉLERIS Celery àI l'italienne. Celery AUENNE -- The (see CARDOON). CARDOON). I'italienne (see for Cardoons Cardoons àd l'italienne for jus. CÉLERIS for Cardoons Cardoons asfor The same same as AUJUS Jus -- The cfrrrus AU Celery au au jus. Celery jus (see (see CARDOON). CARDOON). au jus au as The same same as t A MOELLE l,roslt,s -- The c6rsnts ÀA LA with marrow. marrow. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (see CARDOON). CARDOON). withmarrow marrow (see forCardoons Cardoons with for for The same sameasas for MoRNAY - Tbe cfrnrus MORNAY Mornay. CÉLERIS Celery Mornay. CeJery (see CARDOON). CARDOOI'{). Mornay (see Cardoons Mornay Cardoons The same same PARMESAN- - The AUPARMESAN cfI.sns AU with Parmesan. Parmesan. CÉLERIS Celery with Celery (seeCARDOON). CARDOOI'Q. Parmesan (see withParmesan forCardoons Cardoons with asasfor peCÉLERIS punfeDE pur6e ininthe the thepurée Prepare the pur6e.PURÉE cfLBRIs- - Prepare Celerypurée. Celery

u

t

i

Varietiesof ofcelerv and celeriac celeriac Varieties celery and

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Usedaa celery. Used wild celery. form of of wild Cultivated form CELERY. cErenr- - Cultivated CELERY. CÉLERI into wider wider not come come into did not Romans, celery celerydid great deal great deal by the Romans, by the havetried tried Growers have century. Growers cultivation the sixteenth sixteenth century. until the cultivation until root. asweil wellasasthe the root. to leaves as the leaves todevelop develop the 197 197

CELLAR same way way as as for purie (see (see CARDOON), for Cardoon Cardoon purée CARDOON), using using same braised celery, celery, cooked cooked with with beef beefbouillon bouillon or or water. water. Add Add braised potatoes inin the proportion of the proportion of aa third third of of the the volume volume of of the the potatoes celery; this this improves improves the the consistency. consistency. celery; Celery with with various various sauces. sauces. CÉLERIS cELERrs AUX AUx SAUCES sAUcEs DIVERSES DrvERsEs Celery Pare, wash, wash, and and blanch blanch celery. celery. Cook Cook inin salted salted water, water, drain, drain, -- Pare, and serve serve like like asparagus, asparagus, with with sauces sauces handed handed separately. separately. and Celery vinaigrette. vinaigrette. CÉlERIS cfrsRrs ÀA LA r.q, VINAIGRETTE vtN.q,rcRETrr -- Scrape Scrape Celery and wash wash the the celery. celery. Arrange Arrange the the sticks sticks in glass. in aa crystal crystal glass. and Serve with (see SAUCE) with Vinaigrellesallce Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) handed handed separately. separately. Serve

viding him him with with the theenergy energy necessary necessary for physical work, for his his physical work, viding as weil well as glucosides and as valuable valuableglucosides and Vitamin Vitamin B. B. as Flour-refining processes processes too too often often deprive deprive the the cereal cereal of Flour-refining of its husk germ, both husk and and germ, both of of which which contain contain these these vital vital nutrinutriits tive elements. elements. ItIt isis for for this this reason reason that that dieticians dieticians advocate advocate tive the consumption consumption of of wholemeal wholemeal bread, bread, sprouted sprouted wheat wheat and and Ihe whole rice. rice. whole CERVELAS -- Sausage Sausage made made of pork meat of pork meat and pork fal, and pork fat, CERVELAS seasoned with garlic. This with garlic. This type type of of charcuterie charcuterue isis so-called so-called seasoned (cervelle), particularly because brains brains (cervelle), particularly pigs' pigs' brains, brains, once once because formed part part of of its its composition. composition. ItIt isis also also ca called Saucisson formed lied Saucisson (see SAUCISSON, de Paris Paris (sec SAUCISSON, Parisian Parisian saucisson). saucisson'\. de

CELLAR. CAVE cAVE -- Underground Underground room room with with or or without without an an CELLAR. arched ceiling, ceiling, in in which which wine wine isis kept. kept. A good cellar A good cellar must must be be arched (10" to cool (100 to Ire., 12C.,50' to 54'F,), 54'F.), slightly slightly damp, damp, and and the the air air cool 50° to must circulate circulate aa little. little. must Liqueur cellar. cellar. CAVE c,c,vs ÀA LIQUEURS LreuEURs -- Chest, Chest, made made by by aa Liqueur cabinet maker maker or goldsmith, used or goldsmith, used to to lock lock up precious ftagons up precious flagons cabinet and sometimes sometimes liqueur glasses. liqueur glasses. and

CHABICHOU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABICHOU CHABISSOUS or or CABECOUS CABECOUS -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHABISSOUS

CHABLIS -- Town Town in in the the district district of of Yonne Yonne famous famous for for its CHABLIS its (see WINE). white wines wines (see WINE). white

CELLULOSE -- A A substance substance of of varying varying degrees degrees of of hardhardCELLULOSE ness which which forms forms the the tissue tissue of of vegetable vegetable matter. matter. ness

CHABOISSEAU -- Freshwaler Freshwater fish fish of of the the Couus Cottus family familv CHABOISSEAU which has has delicatc delicate flesh. flesh. which

CENTRAL AMERICA AMERICA -- Sec See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKCOOKCENTRAL ERY, American American cookery. cookery. ERY,

CHABOT -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish which which locally locally isis called called CHABOT 'scorpion', 'sea-devil', 'sea-devil', and 'toad', on and 'toad', account of on account of ilS its strange 'scorpion', strange appearance. It It isis also 'tadpole' because of its also known as as 'tadpole' its large appearance. head, and and'grumbler' and'sea-cock' of the rumbling 'grumbler' and 'sea-cock' because of head, sound it it makes makes when held in the hand. hand. The ftesh flesh ofthis of this fish is sound delicate and and is is used in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and fish fish soups. soups. It should delicate used in Il should not be be eaten eaten during Ihe the spawning season from November to not May. In In France, France, chub are sometimes called chabot. May.

CENTRAL EUROPE EUROPE Al\.'D AI\D THE THE BALKANS BALKANS -- See See ININCENTRAL TERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. TERNATIONAL CEPAGE -- Plant, Plant, variety variety of of vine. vine. French French vines, vines, restocked restocked CÉPAGE with American American vines, vines, have have been grafted onto been grafted onto the ancient the ancient with vine stocks stocks which which are are recognised recognised as as the the bcst best in in each each region. region. vine The number of vine vine varieties varieties is is considerable. considerable. Among Among the the The number of principal stocks stocks there there are: are: principal In Bordeaux Bordeaux the the Cabernet Cabernet franc, the Cabernet Cabernet sauvignon, sauvignon, In franc, the the Merlot, the Malbec, and the the Venlot Verdot for the Mer/ol, the Ma/bec, and for red rcd wines; wines; the the Sauvignon, the the Sémillon, Simillon, and and the the Muscadel/e for white Sauvignon, Muscadelle for white wines. wines. In the Pinot noir is ln Burgundy, Burgundy, the Pinot noir is the the principal principal wine wine stock stock for for the the Chardonnay Chardonnay for for the same in the red rcd wines; wines; the the white. white. The Tbe same in Champagne except noir is Champagne except that that the the Pinot Pinot noir is made made into into white white wine. Gamay excellence in wine. Gamay is is the the vine vine par par excellence in Beaujolais. Beaujolais. It Tt is is also also grown grown all ail over over central central France France and and in in the the west. west. The The Syrah Syrah and and the the Viognier Viognier are are found found mainly mainly in in the the northern northern C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne; Rhône; the the Grenache, Grenache, Carignon, Carignon, Cinsault, Cinsalllt, Mourlv/ourvDdre, and Ugni are the the vines vines common common to to vèdre, Clairette, Clairette, and Ugni blanc blanc are the the south south of of France France and and the the southern southern Cdtes Côtes du du Rh6ne. Rhône. In In Alsace Riesling, TramiAlsace the the principal principal vines vines are are the the Sylvaner, Sylvaner, Riesling, Traminer, gris (Tokay), ner, Pinot Pinot gris (Tokay), and and Muscat. Musem. The The white white wines wines of of the the Loire Loire come come from from either either the the Sauvignon Sauvignon (Pouilly-sur-Loire, (Pouilly-sur-Loire, Sancerre, Sancerre, etc.), etc.), from from the the Chinin Chénin (Vouvray, (Vouvray, Saumur, Saumur, Anjou), Anjou), or or from from the the Muscadet. Muscadet. The The Jura Jura wines wines come come principally principally from from the the pinot Pinot blanc blanc and and the the Poulsart; Poulsarl; the the Muscat Muscat wines wines from from Roussillon Roussillon are arc derived and derived from from the the Alicante; Alicame; the the Grenache, Grenache, the the Aramon, Aramon, and the the Carigane Carigane are are the the vine vine stocks stocks with with aa high high yield, yield, cultivated cultivated in in the the ddpartemenls départements of of Aude, Aude, H6rault Hérault and and Gard. Gard. Among Among the the notable notable vine vine stocks stocks producing producing table table wines wines are are the the various variollS Chasselas, Chasselas, the the Muscats Muscats (white (white and and red), red), the the Oeillade, Oeillade, etc. etc.

Ctpn CÈPE --

CHAINGY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHAlNGY

-

CHALK. CHAUX cHAUx - Calcium Calcium oxide, oxide, found found in in various CHALK. various combinations and in different different forms in binations and in organic tissue. Drinking water contains water often con tains too high high aa proportion of calcium salt and is 'hard'. This and is called called 'hard'. This water water prevents the the satisfactory cooking can remove the calcium cooking of of vegetables. vegeta bles. One One can the ca lei um salts from drinking water by decanting it it after prolonged prolonged boiling from drinking and subsequent cooling, but aerated by and su bseq uent cooling, but it it must must then thcn be be aerated beating. CHAMBERTIN CHAMBERTIN - Vineyard Vineyard on the C6te Côte d'Or in the commune mune of of Gevrey-Chambertin. Gevrey-Chambertin. CHAMBORD CHAMBORD (A (A LA) LA) -- Method of of preparing preparing large large braised braised fish CARP, fish which which includes includes a a very very complex complex garnish. garnish. (See (See CARp, C ar p C hambo r d ; G ARNISHES). Carp Chambord; GARNISHES), CHAMBRER CHAMBRER -"- Said of of wines wines that that are brought brought up up from the the cellar hours before before they they are are due due to to be be served, so so that thal cellar several several hours they room temperature. temperature. All Ail red red they can can be be slowly slowly raised raised to to room Bordeaux Bordeaux should should be be chambri. chambré. The The expression expression goes goes back back to 10 a a time time when when the the word word chambre almost any any room room in in the the house. house. The The chambre could could apply apply to to almost pantry pantry was was the the chambre chambre where where the the wine wine was was usually usually kept kept before drunk. The The cold cold dishes dishes were were kept kepl in in the Ihe pantry pantry before being being drunk. and and its its temperature temperature was was therefore therefore not not very very high. high. Gastronomes Gastronomes are are more more or or less less in in agreement agreement that that the the various be served served at al the Ihe following following temtemvarious wines wines should should be peratures: peratures: Dry Dry white white wines, wines, between bclween 5" 5 and and 8"C. 8e e. (41'and (41° and 46"F.) 46°F.) Dessert Dessert white white wines, wines, between between 2 200 and and 5'C. 5°e. (36" (36° and and 4l'F.) 41 "F.) Rose 8° and and 10"C. 10 0 e. (46'and (46 0 and 50.F.) 50°F) Rosé wines, wines, between between 8o Light Light red red wines, wines, between between l0o 10° and and 12'C. 12°e. (50' (50° and and 53.F.) 53°F.) The The great great Burgundies, Burgundies, between betwecn l5o 15" and and 17"C. Ire. (59. (59 and and 63'F.) 63°F.) The The great great Bordeaux, Bordeaux, between betwecn 16'and 16° and l8'C. 18°e. (61" (61 0 and and 64'F.) 64°F.) Itlt isis also also aa question question of of taste. tas te. A A connoisseur connoisseur who who wishes wishes to Burgundy at at l8'C. 18°e. (64"F.) (64°F) and and his his Bordeaux Bordeaux at at to have have his his Burgundy

French French name name for for boletus boletus or or edible edible mushroom. mushroom.

C

Recipes Recipes will will be be found found under under MUSHROOM. MUSHROOM.

CEREALS. CEREALS. crn6,trrs CÉRÉALES -- Farinaceous Farinaceolls foodstuffs foodstuffs which which are are the the basis basis of of human hu man diet. d iet. Oats, Oats, wheat, wheat, maize, maize, millet, millet, barley, barley, rice, rice, rye rye and and Indian Indian millet millet are are the the gramineous gramineous crops; crops; only only buckwheat buckwheat belongs belongs to group. All Ali cereals cereals can can be be made made into into to the the polygonaceous polygonaceous group. bread, bread, but bul wheat wheat and and rye rye are are particularly parlicularly suitable suilable for for this this purpose. purpose. Cereals Cereals are are indispensable indispensable elements elements of of man's man's diet, diet, propro-

0

198 198

CHAMPAGNE 20'C. 20 e (68"F.) (68°F.) does not have have to uncork uncork the bottles and leave them in the dining-room, as he would have bave done in the old days. central heating, our dining-rooms have a a temdays. With central perature 24"C. (75'F.). peralure often as as high as as 22'C. noe (71"F.) (71°F.) or 24°e (75°F.). It Il is therefore necessary necessary to 10 gauge the proper proper rate of temperature-raising ture-raising to avoid avoid offering offenng guests overheated overheated wine. wine. The process process must must be be slow. slow. A A bottle bottle of wine wine should should never be be plunged into hot hot water or left near near a fire or radiator radiator to hasten hasten

Marne and Aube, Aube, has a world-wide reputation reputation for its great great sparkling sparkling white wines. wines. The The cooking cooking in the province province is rather ralher limited limited but excellent. excellent. The The local local charcuterie is is in in the the first first rank rank of gastronomic gastronomie specialities, especially the the delicious deiicious andouilleues andouillettes of Barsur-Aube sur-Aube and and Bar-sur-Seine; the the andouillettes andouillelles de de mouton mouton and the langues langues fourries fourrées of of Troyes; Troyes; the the famouspigJ' famous pigs' trotters IrOllerS d à la la Sainte-Menehould: Sainte-Menehould; Reims Reims hams hams and and knuckles: knuckles; and many other dishes. Meat, particularly parlicularly mutton, is good, and poultry pouJtry is fairly good. good. Fruit fruit and and vegetables vegetables are are excellent. Freshwater freshwater fish include trout, trout, carp, carp, pike pike and and salmon. salmon. Good Good furred furred and feathered game game is to be be found, and the the Ardennes thrushes thrushes are especially prized prized by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. Culinary Culinary specialities specililities -- Among the dishes of Champagne Champagne are matelotes matelotes (q.v.), (g.v.), using using champagne champagne;; la la potCe potée champenoise; champenoise; quartier de de mouton d à la la champenoise; champenoise; boudin de de lapin d à la Sainte-Menehould; thrushes th rushes dà I'ardennaise, l'ardennaise, poulet poulet d à la peau peau de goret; goret; gougire gougère de I'Aube; l'Aube; salade dc de pissenlit pissenlit an au lard; and,

0

the process. process.

CHAMOIS -- Wild Wlid mammal, mammal, bearing bearing some resemblance resemblance to the goat, goal, found found in i.n the high Alps and in the Pyrenees, Pyrenees, where where itit is called ealled Isard. Isard. Chamois meat is considered considered excellent venison, especially especially when wben the animal is young. young. It It is tS tougher lougher when the chamois chamois is older, and should be he properly marinated marinated before before cooking. cooking. It It is is prepared prepared in the same way as roebuck roebuck (q.v.). CHAMPAGNE CHAlVlPAGNE -- This This province, province, which which comprises comprises approxiapproximately malely the four dipartements départements of Marne, Ardennes, HauteHaute-

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Grape harvest harvest in in Champagne ( Inurent-perrier) Champagre (Laurent-Perrier) Grape

as aa sweet, sweet, beignets beignets au au fromage blanc. blanc. as Vineyards -- The The cellars cellars of of Champagne Champagne are are famous. famous. One One Vineyards single wine wine embellishes embellishes them them -- Champagne. Champagne. single The vine-growing vine-growing district district of of Champagne Champagne is is divided divided into into The great regions: three great regions: three Montagne de de Reims. Reims. South South of of Reims, Reims, of prinof which which the the prinMontagne cipal vineyards vineyards are are ViJliers-Marmery, Villiers-Marmery, Verzy, Yerzy, Verzenay, Verzenay, cipal Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Mailly, Mailly, Sillery, Sillery, Puisieulx, Puisieulx, Ludes, Beaumont-sur-Vesle, Rilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Trois-Puits, Trois-Puits, Montbré, Montbr6, VillersVillersRilly-la-Montagne, Chigny, Allerand, Sermiers, Charmery, Charmery, Ecueil, Ecueil, Sacy, Villedomange, Villedomange, Allerand, Sermiers, Jouy, Linked with the Montagne Montagne de de Reims Reims is is the Jouy, Vrigny. Vrigny. Linked with the Petite of Hermonville, Hermonville, SaintSaintPetite Montagne Montagne with with the the vineyards vineyards of Thierry, Trigny Trigny and and the Côte C6te de de Bouzy Boury with the Thierry, and P6vy; Pévy; and vineyards Tr6pail, Louvois, Tauxidres, Ambonnay and Ambonnay and vineyards of of Trépail, Louvois, Tauxières, Bouzy. Bouzy. Vallie are: Ay, Vallée de de la la Marne. Marne. Its Its principal principal vineyards vineyards are: Mareuil-sur-Ay, Dizy, Cumières, Cumidres, HautMareuil-sur-Ay, Mutigny, Mutigny, Avenay, Avenay, Dizy, villiers, villiers, Damery, Damery, Tours, Tours, Bisseuil, Bisseuil, Venteuil, Venteuil, Fleury-laFleury-IaRividre, on the Rivière, Reuil, Reuil, Vandidres, Vandières, Verneuil, Verneuil, and and Vincelles on right right bank; bank; Nardeuil, Nardeuil, Boursault, Boursault, Leuvrigny, Leuvrigny, Festigny, Troissy, Troissy, and and Dormans Dormans on on the the left left bank; bank; Epernay, pierry, Pierry, Moussy, Moussy, Vinay, Vinay, and and Saint-Martin Saint-Martin on the the C6te Côte d'Epernay. d'Epernay. C6te Côte des des blancs. blancs. South-east South-east of of Epernay Epernay of of which which the principal Avize, Grauves, principal vineyards vineyards are: are: Cuis, Cuis, Cramant, Cramant, Avize, Grauves, Oger, Oger, I€ Le Mesnil-sur-Oger, Mesnil-sur-Oger, Vertus, Vertus, BergdresJes-Vertus, Bergères-les-Vertus, Mancy, Mancy, Oiry, Oiry, Monthelon. Monthelon. The The wine wine of of Champagne Champagne -- Apart Apart from from the the 'still' 'still' white white and and red red wines wines which which are are called called nature nature wines, wines, Champagne Champagne wine wine must must be be made made effervescent effervescent according according to to the the so-called so-called Mithode Méthode champenoise champenoise with with the the second second fermentation fermentation taking taking place place in in the the bottle. bottle. This This method method (perfected (perfected by by Dom Dom p6rigPérignon) non) comprises comprises aa series series of of processes processes that that can cao be be summarised summarised as as follows: follows: 1. 1. Usual Usual alcoholic alcoholic fermentation fennentation followed followed by by all ail the the processes processes employed employed in in the the production production of of white white wine. wine. (It (lt should should be be remembered remembered that that in in Champagne Champagne the the black black grapes grapes are are used used en en blanc blanc which which means means that that only only the the juice juice of of the the grape grape isis fermented.) fermented.) 2. 2. Constitution Constitution of of the the cuvie cuvée (or (or special special blend) blend) by by comcombining wines selected biningwines selected from from aa variety variety of ofChampagne Champagne growths. growths.

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Mapof ofChampagne Champagne vineyards vineyards Map

200 200

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE Champagne Champagne production production

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201

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE CHANTERELLE (Cantharellus (Cantharellus cibarius) cibarius) - - Edible EdiblemushmushCHANTERELLE room,also also known known inin France France asasgirolle. girolle. (See (SeeMUSHMUSHroom, ROOMS.) ROOMS.) CHANTILLY -- Name given toto fresh Name given fresh cream cream beaten beatentotothe CHANTILLY the consistency of of aa mousse, mousse, sweetened sweetenedand and flavoured flavoured with with consistency vanilla or or other other flavours. flavours. ftIt can can also also mean mean aahollandaise hollandaise vanilla sauceto to which whichwhipped whipped cream cream has has been added; also been added; sauce also aacold cold saucecomposed composed of of mayonnaise mayonnaise and and whipped whipped cream. cream.These These sauce last two twosauces sauces are are also also known known under under the the name name of ofmousseline. mousseline. last The name name can can be be applied applied to to various various preparations preparations and pastry The and pastry (See CHICKEN, confections. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken àd lala chantilly; confections. chantillv: CHARLOTTE, Charlolle Charlotte àd laIa chantilly.) chantilly.) CHARLOTTE, jaw, or CHAP. BAJOUE BAJoUE -- The The lower lower jaw, (especially or half half cheek cheek(especially CHAP. pig). of pig). of

Old champagne champagne bottles bottles Old

3. After After aa 'dosage' 'dosage' of of cane cane sugar, poured into sugar, the the wine wine isis poured into 3. hermetically sealed sealed bottles. The sugar bottles. The provokes aa second sugar provokes second hermetically fermentation by releasing carbonic by releasing carbonic acid gas; this acid gas; this isis called called fermentation prise de (sparkling process). the prise de mousse mousse (sparkling process). the 4. Working Working of of the the deposit. deposit. The The bottles placed on bottles are are placed on 4. (each bottle wooden frames frames (each bottle having having aa cage cage of its own) own) and of its and wooden slowly raised raised from from aa horizontal horizontal to to aa vertical position, to vertical position, to slowly enable the the deposit deposit left left by fermentation to by fermentation to slide slide down down enable towards the the cork. cork. towards 5. Disgorging. Disgorging. Removal Removal of of the the deposit. deposit. 5. 6. Topping Topping up up the 'liqueur'after the bottles bottles with with aa 'liqueur' the deposit deposit 6. after the has been removed. This been removed. This liqueur liqueur consists consists of of cane cane sugar sugar solusoluhas tion of of varying varying strengths, strengths, depending depending on on whether whether the the client client tio'1 requires an an extra extra dry, dry, dry, dry, demi-sec demi-sec or or sweet sweet Champagne. Champagne. requires 7. Cellarage. C,ellarage. The The bottles are matured matured for bottles are period which for aa period 7. varies according according to to whether whether the the wine wine is is vintage vintage or or nonnonvaries vintage. vintage. (Fine) -- Name CHAMPAGITIE (Fine) given to Name given to certain certain brandies CHAMPAGNE made the Charentes Charentes area. area. The The famous famous name given to name given to the made in in the locality produces these which produces famous brandies is due, it isis due, it locality which these famous brandies is said, to between the soil and and the the chalky chalky subsubsaid, to aa resemblance resembJance between the soil soil with with that of the Champagne region region of soil that of the Champagne of north-west north-west (See CHARENTE, France. CHARENTE, Eaux-de-vie.) Eaux-de-vie.) France. (See CHAMPAGNISER To produce quality or sparkling quality CHAMPAGNISER -- To produce the the sparkling to to treat treat wines wines according according to to the the Champagne Champagne method. method. CHAMPIGNY CHAMPIGNY (Pashy) (Pastry) -- Use Use puff puff pastry pastry Qtdte (pâte feuilletie) feuilletée) which which has has been been rolled rolled out out six six times times (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Roll Roll it it out out to to aa thickness thickness of of not not more more than than 33 mm. mm. (* (t inch) inch) in in aa square square shape. shape. Fill Fil! the the centre centre with with aa layer layer of of apricot apricot jam jam flavoured with and containing containing a a few few apricot apricot kernels. kernels. with a a little little kirsch kirsch and Moisten Moisten the the edge edge of of the the pastry, pastry, cover coyer with with aa layer layer of of pastry pastry I1 cm. cm. (* (t inch) inch) thick, thick, and and seal seal the the edges, edges, indenting indenting them with with aa fork. To prevent prevent the the jam jam from from seeping seeping out out during during the the fork. To baking, baking, press press a a ribbon ribbon of of pastry pastry round round the the edges. edges. Brush Brush with and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven oyen for for 25 to to 30 30 with beaten beaten egg egg and minutes. glaze. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing icing sugar sugar and and glaze. CHAMPOREAU CHAMPOREAU -- Black Black coffee coffee with with the the addition addition of of eaueaude-vie, Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, rum rum or or kirsch. kirsch. In In slang slang lanlande-vie, Cognac, guage champoreau. guage one one says/aire says faire champoreau. CHANFAINA CHANFAINA (Spanish (Spanish cookery) cookery) -- Cook Cook aa lamb's lamb's or or pig's pig's liver Fry 22 large large chopped chopped onions onions in in oil. oil. When When liver in in salt salt water. water. Fry almost almost cooked, cooked, add add diced diced pimentos, pimentos, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped fresh fresh mint. mint. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, cinnamon, cinnamon, and and cumin, cumin, and and cook cook for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Add Add the the cooked cooked liver, liver, cut cut up up into into large large dice. dice. Cook Cook on on aa fairly fairly strong strong heat heat for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Add Add aa few of the the liquor liquor in in which which the the liver liver has has been been few tablespoons tablespoons of cooked. quantity of of breadbreadcooked. Boil Boil for for 55 minutes. minutes. Add Add aa small small quantity crumbs water in in the the manner manner of of aa bread bread panada panada crumbs cooked cooked in in water (q.v.) (q.v.) to to bind bind the the sauce. sauce. Season Season highly. highly.

CHAPELER -- The The preparation preparation of of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs by drying CHAPELER by drying them in in the the oyen oven and and sieving sieving them. them. In In the grilled the old old days them days grilled bread was was called pain cappelé. called pain (See BREADCRUMBS.) cappeli. (See BREADCRUMBS.) bread (Mediterranean cookery) CHAPON (Mediterranean cookery) -- Slice Slice of CHAPON French of French rubbed with garlic and bread rubbed with garlic and seasoned seasoned with with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. bread In the the south south of of France, France, and and especially especially in in Languedoc, Languedoc, bread In bread treated in in this this way way isis added added to to salads, salads, especially especially to treated to chicory chicory salad. salado CHAR or or CHARR. CHARR. OMBLE oMBLE CHEV cHEvALTER Fish of of the CHAR ALlER -- Fish the salmon salmon genus, found found in in the the deep deep lakes lakes and and rivers rivers of genus, of Switzerland, Switzerland, Savoy and and Auvergne. Auvergne. It It resembles resembles trou trout, Savoy t, but but has has finer finer scales scales and teeth; teeth; and and black black spots spots on on the the sides. The flesh sides. The and flesh isis very verv delicate. lt It isis prepared prepared like like Salmon (see TROUT). Salmon trout trout (see delicate. TROUT).

(Pork butcbery) CHARCUTERIE (Pork butchery) -- The The art CHARCUTERIE art of preparing of preparing (especially pork) meats (especially pork) in in order to present them them in in various various ways. 'The pig, pig, whose whose meat meat prepared prepared by pork butchers 'The by pork butchers is is the delight of of gourmets, was was despised despised by delight by the the Egyptians, Egyptians, and and Moses included included itit among the the impure impure meats Moses meats which which he he forforbade the the Hebrews Hebrews to eat. bade

Inside Inside aa pork pork butcher's butcher's shop shop (rrfrcolas) (Nicolas)

'The 'The Greeks Greeks raised raised the the status status of ofthe the animal animal so so far far as as to to make make

itit the the favourite favourite victim victim in in sacrifices sacrifices offered offered to to the the gods. gods. They They also also used used pork pork fat fat in in cooking. cooking. The The Romans Romans probably probably learned learned

how how to to prepare prepare pork pork from from them. them. The The Roman Roman porcella parcella law law determined determined the the manner manner of of raising, raising, feeding, feeding, killing killing and and 202 202

CHARCUTERIE CHARCUTERIE

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charcuterie products: Some charcuterie Sorne Products : Liver Filet deSaxe; Saxe;9' gras sausage; sausage;8. pudding;7. Foie gras Black pudding; deTours;6. paris harn; Rilion deTours; rillettes; 5.5. Rillon Pain de de rillettes; 1. 2. Rolled shoulder; head; 4. Pain 6. Black 7. Foie 8. Filetde 9. Liver ofboar'shead;4. Galantine ofboar's l. Paris ham;2. shoulder;3.3. Galantine grasgalantine(Larousse) foie gras galantine; 14. Truffied foie poultry galantine; 14. Truffled Truffied poultry 13. Truffled Brawn; 13. pâté; galantine (Larousse) 12. Brawn; galantine; 12. Poultry galantine; galantine; II. ll. Poultry pit6; 10. Rabbit galantine; 10. Rabbit

today. are made made today. as they they are way as same way less in in the the same more or or less but more but udder and the the udder uterus and were the the uterus appreciated were Particularly appreciated Particularly and of smalI small and Varieties of to breed. breed. Varieties began to animal began the animal before the before and tomacula, and tobelli, tomacula, called large sa sausages large usages ca lied farcimina, farcimina, tobelli, tables. Roman tables. on Roman appeared on also appeared tomacina also tomacina

meat preparing Pork meat pork butchery. butchery. Pork pigs, and preparing pigs, and controlled controlled pork was the Roman Roman of the in the the time time of ways in prepared in in several several ways was prepared empire, and spices and salt, spiœs mixing itit with salt, by mixing was preserved by empire, and was aromatics. Mortadellas, salamis and specialiall the ltalian specialiand ail the Italian ties time, at that that time, names at other names probably made made under under other were probably ties were

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jijiii:,., f, ,', More charcuterieproducts: Morecharcuterie Products : pie;8. 8. Bayonne pAt6;7. 7.Smalt meatpie; Smallrneat hampâté; 1.l.Rolled harn; 2. Knuckle of harn; 3. Rolled haro; 4. Trotters Sainte-Menehoud; 5. Parisian pâté; Bayonne pit6;6. 6.Veal vealand andbarn Rolledsmoked smoked ham; 2. Knuckle of ham; 3. Rolled ham;4. Trotters Sainte-Menehoud; 5. Parisian knuckle ofharn (Larousse) (I-arousse) knuckle of ham

203 203

CHARD CHARD 'This art preserved during of charcuterie charcuterue was art of was preserved during the Middle the Middle 'This Ages in in France, France, but bttthe mdtier ofpork butchery was was for of pork butchery for aalong long the me'tier Ages time confused confused with with that that of cuisinier-oyer which, of cuisinier-oyer which, inin the the time fourteenth century, century, comprised comprised two two categories: categories: that that of of the the fourteenth chaircutiers and (roasting chefs). and that that of of the the rostisseurs rostisseurs (roasting chefs). In In chaircutiers 1476, the the chaircutiers chaircutiers obtained pork obtained the monopoly of the monopoly of selling selling pork 1476, meat, cooked (only fat cooked or pork in or raw raw (only fat pork in the latter case), the latter case), but but they they meat, were not not allowed allowed to pigs themselves to kill kill the the pigs themselves and and had had to to buy buy were pork meat meat from from the butcher. the butcher. pork 'The statutes statutes of of 17 l7 January January 1475 1475 recognised recognised the sole rights the sole rights 'The of the the chaircutiers-saucissiers chaircutiers-saucissiers boudiniers boudiniers to pork meat to sell sell pork meat of prepared in either cooked cooked or or prepared in the the form form of of cervelas, cervelas, sausages, sausages, either (U.S. blood) black (U.S. puddings etc.' (Franklin). ln blood) puddings etc.' (Franklin). In the the sixteenth sixteenth black century they they finally finally obtained obtained the the right right to pigs themto kill kill the the pigs themcentury selves. An An order order of of 26 26 March March 1664 1664 forced forced them them to to buy buy their their selves. pigs at at aa distance distance of of 21 2l leagues leagues from from Paris, Paris, aa decree decree which which pigs has not not been been in in force foroe since since the creation of the creation ofthe stockvards in in the stockyards has the city city itself. itself. the jambons (ham All Parisians Parisians know know the (ham the famous famous foire aux jambons Ali foire aux fair) which isis he held on the the boulevard Richard-Lenoir Richard-Lenoir before before fair) Id on Holy Week. Week. The The !ittle little stalls stalls are are laden laden for for days days with with ail all the the Holy charcuterie specialities specialities from from the provinces, and the French French provinces, and charcuterie even from from abroad. abroad. Auvergne Auvergne and and Lorraine Lorraine dominate dominate with with even their concentration concentration of of sausages, puddings, pâtés, p&tis, etc. sausages, hams, hamso puddings, etc. their This fair fair dates dates from from the remote past, past, and the remote and isis said said to to have have This in front front of begun in Notre-Dame. of Notre-Dame. begun Dietetically speaking, speaking, opinion opinion isis divided divided about about charcharDietetically cuterie. Sorne Some things rillettes, brawn, things -- rillettes, brawn, andouilles, andouilles, black cuterie. black pudding, etc. etc. -- are are inclined inclined to to be indigestible, and be indigestible, and even pudding, even poor quality. On toxic if if of po On the the other other hand, hand, lean lean charcuterie charcuterie or quality. toxic cooked or raw ham, as cooked ham, dried dried sausage, sausage, etc. etc. have definite have definite such as nutritional value. value. The virtue of charcuterie charcutene isis that nutritional that itit excites excites the appetite since since the the spices spices that that itit contains contains encourage the encourage the the juices. It secretion of saliva and gastric gastric juices. It has no no harmful harmful effects secretion effects if eaten in in moderation. moderation. if

'Grandechampagne champagneincludes includesthe thewhole whole of ofthe thecanton cantonofof 'Grande part ofof the Segonzac,and andpart the Cognac Cognaccanton canton south Segonzac, southofof the the Charente river. river. Charente 'The brandy brandy of ofthis thisregion regionisisthe prototype of theprototype 'The ofthe thebrandies brandies of Charente; Charente; itit isis characterised characterised by verydelicate delicatearoma, of byaavery aroma, recalling the gentle perfume perfume of the gentle of the vine ininftower, recalling thevine flower, and andby byaa vigorous and and full full savour savourwhich which creates prolonged and vigorous creates prolonged and pleasurable sensations sensations when whentasted. tasted. This Thisbrandy pleasurable brandy isiswarm warm without burning palate, and burning the the palate, andits without itscolour, colour,ififitit has agedinin hasaged an ideal ideal situation, palegold. situation, isisaavery very pale gold. an 'Petite champagne champagne encloses encloses the 'Petite theGrande Grande champagne champagneininaa half-circle.ItIt isis bounded bounded on half-circle. on the the north north by bythe thecourse course of ofthe the Charente, between between Mosnac Mosnac and andMerpins; Charente, Merpins; toto the the east east by byaa line running running from from Mosnac !ine Mosnac to to Barbezieux; Barbezieux; on onthe thesouth southby by the road road running running from from Barbezieux the Barbezieux to toJonzac; Jonzac; and andon on the the west by by the the course course of west of the the river river Seugne, Seugne,from from Jonzac Jonzac toto Beillant. Beillant. 'The brandies brandies of 'The of this this region, region, without great without having having the thegreat finesse of of those finesse those of of Grande Grande champagne, champagne,approach approach them them totoaa certain degree, particularly inin the degree, particularly certain the bordering bordering vineyards. vineyards. 'The Borderies, 'The Borderies, as as the the name name implies, implies, form form aaseries of !ittle little series of hills hills along along the the banks banks of of the the Charente, from Cognac Charente, from Cognac toto Chérac, and stretch Ch6rac, and stretch northwards northwards as as far far asas the the heights heightsof of Saint-Sulpice and Menac. Menac. This This borders Saint-Sulpice and plain of thevast vast plain borders on on the of the the Pays-Bas. Pays-Bas. 'The Borderies produce good 'The Borderies produce good brandies brandies with with aroma, aroma, aa certain certain finesse finesse and and aa full full body. body. They They are are less less mellow mellow than than the the Champagne Champagne brandies, brandies, but but have have more more body. body. The The Fin-bois Fin-bois and and Bons-bois Bons-bois surround preceding surround the the three three preceding areas pentagon whose areas in in the the form form of of aa pentagon whose upper angle touches upper angle touches Saint-Jean-d'Angély, Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly, and and whose whose limits limits are are tbe the road road from from Saint-Jean-d'Angély Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly to to Angoulême; Angoul6me; the the line line of of the railroad the railroad from Angoul€me to from Angoulême to Chalais; Chalais; aa !ine line drawn drawn from from Chalais Chalais to to Montendre; Montendre; the the road road from from Montendre Montendre to to Saujon; Saujon; and and aa line line running running from from Saujon Saujon to to Saint-Jean-d'Angély. Saint-Jean-d'Ang6ly. 'The 'The Bois Bois brandies quality, but brandies have have aa smooth smooth quality, but compared compared with with those those of of Champagne Champagne they they are are soft, soft, with with less less finesse, finesse, and pleasures to and offer offer briefer palate. briefer pleasures to the the palate. 'All 'All the the other other vineyards vineyards of of Charente and the proCharente and the islands islands produce (From duce ordinary ordinary brandies, brandies, but but worthy worthy of imbibing.' (From of imbibing.' les gastronomiques by les Dissertations Dissertations gastronomiques by Ernest Ernest Verdier.) Verdier.) Not Not only must the the brandies only must brandies of of the the Charente Charente area area come come from from the areas defined the areas defined in in the the accompanying in order accompanying map map in order to to have the the right right to label, but to aa Cognac Cognac label, the wines wines on which but the on which they they are are based must derive derive from based must from the the following following vine-stocks: vine-stocks: Sémillon, S6millon, Folle-blanche, Colombac, Colombac, Blanc Blanc rainé, rain6, Jurançon Jurangon blanc, blanc, Montils Montils and and Sauvignon. Sauvignon. CHARLEMAGNE Y. (Saint) -- See CHARLEMAGI{E (Saint) See FESTIVE FESTIVE COOKER COOKERY.

Chard

CHARD. CHARD.

ROOT.)

Charlolle Charlotte mould mould (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Iarousse)

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(See BEETCARDE - Old Old name for for white beet. beet. (See cARDE

CHARENTE -- Name famous for its magnificent magnificent brandies CHARENTE known as Cognac. Cognac. They are made from the wines produced known in the the dCpartemenr département of Charente-Maritime. Charente-Maritime. in Eaux-de-vie of Charente. Charente. EAUx-DE-vrE EAUX-DE-VIE DEs DES cHARENTEs CHARENTES Eauxde-vie The general general classification classification of the the wines wines of the the Charente The region is is arranged arranged in in the the following following order: order: region Grande champagne, champagne, Petite Petite champagne, Borderies, FinsGrande bois, Bons-bois, Bons-bois, Bois Bois ordinaires, ordinaires, and and Bois du terroir. bois,

CHARLOTTE -- Two Two kinds kinds of of dessert dessert are are known known by the by the name of charlotte. charlotte. One, One, charlotte aharlotte russe, prepared with russe, is is prepared with (q.v.) which Bavarian cream creiln (q.v.) which is plain mould is set set in in aa plain mould lined lined round the side the bottom side and and at at the bottom with with sponge sponge fingers, fingers, and and served cold. cold. The other, fruit fruit charlotte served The other, (and particularly particularly charlotte (and 204 2M

CHARTREUSE CHARTREUSE lotte before turning turning itil out, out, so so that thal the the lotte for for aa few few minutes before apple settles. Serve with apricot sauce. sauce. pears, Charlottes can cao be be prepared in in the the same same way way with with quinces, quinces, apricots, apricots, peaches, peaches, plums. plu ms. The The consistency consistency of the the fruit fruit must must be be kept kept very very stiff; stilf; ifif too too liquid, Iiquid, itit would would soften sonen turned when disintegrate would the the bread bread and and the the dessert dessert wou Id disintegrate when turned out out of of the the mould. mould, Charlottes Charlottes can can also also be he filled filled with with aa fruit fruit filling fiHing and and with with (see French French pastry paslry crecon cream or or with with Frangipane Frangipane pastry paslry cream cream (sec CREAM). CREAM). Schaleth Schaleth dà lalajuive juive is is also also aa kind kind of of charlotte. charlotte. Line Line aa castcastcooked fill with paste, and noodle with cocotte iron lIOn cocolte witb noodle paste, and fill with cooked apple, apple, sultanas, sultanas, currants currants and and raisins. raisins. Moisten Moisten with with Malaga Malaga wine, wine, and and bind bind with with eggs. eggs. (See (See SCHALETH') SCHALETH.) RIz AU DE PoMMES Apple Apple charlotte charlotte with with rice. riee. cHARLorrE CHARLOTTE DE POMMES AU RIZ -Sprinkle Sprinkle a a thickly thickly buttered buttered charlotte charlotte mould mould with with dried dried breadcrumbs, Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE), RICE), I1 cm. cm. breadcrumbs, add add aa layer layer of of Dessert (| inch) of 1 cm. within to mould Fill the 6(t inch) inch) thick. thick. FiJI the mould 10 within 1 cm. (t inch) of the the put and rice top top with with stiff stiff apple apple filling. filling. Cover Cover with with dessert dessert rice and put Gas Mark 3) for 30 in in aa moderate moderate oven oven (160'C., (160°C., 325'F., 325~F., Gas Mark 3) for 30 (q.v.). minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with with aa fruit fruit sauce sauce or or zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.). CHARQLICAN-CIilLENO (Chilean (Chllean cookery) cookery) -- This This is is (lean the national dish dish of of Chile. Chile. Saut6 Sauté the the charqui charqui (lean beef beef cut cul into into pieces) pieces) in in oil oil with with garlic garlic and and coarsely coarsely chopped chopped onion, onion, and and then then moisten moisten with with brown brown stock. stock. Add Add carrots, carrots, turnips, turnips, tomatoes, tomatoes, peas peas in in their theu pods, pods, pumpkin, celery, celery, green green haricots, haricots. and and pimentos pimenlos cut eut into inlo pieces. pieces. Braise, and and serve selVe in in deep deep soup soup added. potatoes can be plates. Fried plates. Fried potatoes can be added,

apple applecharlotte,whichseems charloue, which seemsto to have havebeen beeo the thefirst first ofofits itskind) kind) isis made made with wilh aa confection confection of offruit fruit inin aa mould mould lined lined with with thin thin slices slices of of buttered butlered bread, bread, usually usually served served hot' hot. Car€me Carême invented invented the the charlotte char/olte russe russe at at his his own own establishestablishment ment in in Paris. Paris.

COLD CHARLOTTES FRoIDES FROIDES -COLD CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES. cnlnrorrEs Charlotte Charlotte Ià la la Chantilly Chantilly -- Use Use aa straight-sided straight-sided mould. mould.

Cut Cut several several sponge sponge fingers fingers into into triangles triangles and and line line the the bottom bottom of of the the mould mould in in aa rosette rosette formation formation with with aa sponge sponge finger finger cut eut into ioto aa circle circle in in the the centre. centre, Trim Trim the the ends ends and and sides sides of of more more sponge sponge fingers fingers and and set set them them in in the the mould, mould, upright, upright, well weil pressed pressed together together one one against against the the other. other. Whisk Whisk 66 dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2] cups) cups) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream (kept on on ice ice or or in in aa cold cold place until the the moment moment of of beating). The cream cream must must be be so 50 firm that that itit has has the the consistency consistency of whisked whisked egg whites. whites. Mix 125 g.(4I g. (4~ oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar with with the cream cream and and I1 Mix 125 tablespoon tablespoon vanilla vanilla sugar sugar or or a a few few drops drops vanilla vanilla extract. extract. Spoon the the cream cream into into the the mould, mould, and and turn out at at once. once. la parisienne parisienne (Car€me's (Carême's recipe) recipe) -- 'Take 'Take 175 175 g. g. Charlotte Ià la (6 oz.) sponge fingers fingers which which are frosted frosted on one side, and and aa packet packet of green green pistachio pistachio biscuits. biscuits. Cut the the latter latter into into thin thin ilices slices and and then then into ioto diamond shapes, 3* 3t cm. cm. (1 inches) inches) long. long. Make Make a double double star star with them them in the the bottom bottom of a plain plain octagonal mould. Then, Then, using the the sponge fingers cut eut into inte ,suitable suitable shapes, fill fi1l the bottom of the mould. mou Id, With With the the rest rest sides of line the the sides of the the mould; mould,' setting seUÎng of the sponge fingers line them upright and close close together. Take Take care care to to place place the the frosted fresled side against the mould. (see 'Fill the 'Fill the charlotte charlotte with wîlh Vanilla VaniIJa Bavarian Bavarian ueam cream (see and cover the BAVARIAN BA VARIAN CREAM) and the cream with with sponge sponge minutes later 40 minutes and 40 Surround it with broken fingers. Surround broken ice, ice, and tater fingers. it out onto aa silver dish.' turn il way as as same way in the the same plombidres - Prepared Prepared in Charlotte plombières Charlotte filling of of (see below), with aa filling charlotte (see Vanilla ice cream char/olle Vanilla Îce cream below), with (see ICE ICES)' AND ICES), ICE CREAM CREAM AND ueam (see ice cream Plombiires Plombières Îce with sponge sponge mould with nrss€ -- Line the bottom of aa mould Charlotte russe with sponge sponge sides wllh hearts, form of he cut into the fonn fingers eut arts, and the sides sides. and sides. ends and at the the ends trimmed at have been been trimmed which have fingers which fingcrs mould, pressed of the the mould, inside of round lhe the inside these upright round Place these (l inch) above cm. (1 2l cm. projecting aabout well together, together, and projecting weJl bout 2t top. the top, the (q.v.). Place in the Place in the crecan (q.v.). Bavarian cream with Bavarian charlotte with Fill the the charlotte Fil! out. turned out. to be be turned until ready 10 refrigerator untiJ difcream of of difBavarian cream with B(lvarian filled with can be fillee! russecan Charlotte russe flavours. ferent flavours. ferent rA' crlc6n À,c, LA cHARLorrE GLACÉE charlotte. CHARLOTTE cream charlotte. ice cream Vanilla ice Vanilla as fingers as sponge fingers with sponge mould wlth charlotte mould the charlotte Line the vANILLE -- Line VANILLE in the the preceding recipe. described in described with aa ice or or with vanilla ice with vanilla before serving fill the mould with Just before Just ICES). (see TCE AND TCES). ICE CREAM CREAM AND filling for for aa Bombe (see vanilla filling vanilla flavourings various flavourings of various ice cream cream of with ice filled with Iced charlottes charlottes fil!ed lced way. prepared in same way. in the the same can be be prepared can

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of Chartreux. Chartreux' CHARTREUSE-Liqueur CHARTREUSELiqueur made made bythe by the monks monks of follows: The approximate composition of The approximate of this (his liqueur is is as as f01l0ws: g' (1 lb. 320 g. g. (1 lb. 7 oz.) oz.) hyssop, (l lb. oz.) balm, 6$ 640 g. 640 g. (l lb. 77 oz.) 640 g. hyssop, 320 g. (a oz.) 40 g. oz.) cînnamon cinnamon bark, (11 100 g. (4 angelica leaves, oz.) angelica (! 1 oz.) leaves, 100 bark, 40 (Ltoz.) a0 g. (U oz.) saffron. (l~. oz.) mace, mace, 40 distilled for l0 Infuse for Infuse 10 days in l0 litres (9 quarts, I I quarts) distiUed then add 1200 g. (2 lb. 1l oz.) white sugar. alcohol, (hen alcohol,

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cabbage. partridges and and cabbage. of partridges Preparation of CHARTREUSE -- Preparation CHARTREUSE variety of preparations to aa variety word applied to the word old days the In the the old ln nor cabbage. neither feathered game nor which included neither which queen of of entries which undoubtedly the queen is undoubtedly 'The chartreuse chartrease is 'The is vegetables, but but is and vegetables, roots and of roots is composed composed of can serve; serve; itit is one can one smiling that smiling and August, August, that July and perfect in May, June, June, July in May, only perfect only nature, in nature, renewed in when everything isis renewed propitious season, season, when and propitious and preparain our our preparatrouble in us to to take take fresh trouble invite us to invite and seems seems to and products.' excellent prod ofthese delicacy ofthe account of tions on on acceunt the dei icacy of these excellent ucts.' tions chaudes.) (Car€me, Trairé des en/rées enties chaudes.) Traiti des (Carême, (CarGme's recipe) parisienne, en su4rrise la paJ'jsij~nne, Chartreuse àI la Chartreuse 'Cook 88 trumes in ,-"a,,'1."'.)';"o;;. Champagne. When they are cold, pare trufles in 'Cook 100 greatest length. Peel 100 length. Peel ofthe in the the direction of cut (hem them in and eut and the greatest prepared in in carrots prepared replaced hy by carrots be replaced these can can he tails -- these crayfish tails crayfish (see PARpartridge (sec of parzridge for Chartreuse Chartreuse of as for way as same way the same the PARof aa the bottom bottom of on the crown on form aa crown to form and begin 10 TRIDGE) -- and TRIDGE) place them the them on on the and place truffies and the truIDes mould. buttered mou buttered Id. Trim the Add Greek border. border. Add make aa Greek as to to make way as in such such aa way crayfish tails tails in crayfish and trimmed. trimmed' with butter butter and previously stiffened stiffened with fillets previously chicken fillets chicken form aa to tails a crown ofcrayfish border ofthis on top Set Set on of this border a crown of crayfish tails to farm the that the so that underneath, so border underneath, parallel with the crayfish border the crayfish tails. crayfish tails. with crayfish framed wîth Greek border border isis framed and scatter scatter very fine/y finely and trufres very of the the truffies 'Chop the trimmings of the trimmings 'Chop withaalayer these with Cover these mould. Cover of the the mould. the bottom bottom of them on on the (hem layer Cover thick. Cover cm' (1(l inch) thick. forcemeat 2lcm. of chicken chicken quenelle forcemeat of of withaa Blanquetteof Fill the the middle with too. FUI Greek border too. the Greek the lamb "u",,,tl~r,,:~ri,, sweetbreads; vealor or lamb BLANQUETTE); veal chicken (seeBLANQUETTE); chicken otàdlala ragoittàdlalafinancière with aaragoût game fillets; orwith fillets; or slices ofgame financiire or slices quitefilled. filled. not be beqUÎte should not mouldshould Themould Toulouse. The Toulouse. diameter cm.(5(5 inches) inindiameter forcemeat 1313cm. 'Make aacover of forcemeat coverof 'Make paper.Place Place round of of buttered paper. onaaround thick on inch) truck cm.(1(*inch) and1I cm. and

DE fRUIT FRUIr -crlc'RlorrEs DE CHARLOTTES. CHARLOTTES FRUIT CHARLOTTES. FRUIT the bottom bottom Line the DE POMMES PoMMEs -- Line cHARLorrE DE Apple charlotte. charlotte. CHARLOTTE Apple form of of cut in in the the form bread eut of bread slices of with slices mould with charlotte mou/d of aacharlotte of with sides wîth Line the the sides melted butter. butter. Line and dipped dipped inin melted hearts, and heurts, mould, as the the mould, height as same height the same in rectangles the cut in of bread slices of bread cut slices quartered apples apples 12 quartered Slice 12 melted butter. Slîce dipped inin rneltee! and also also dipped and hasbeen been which has to which cup) butter butter to oz., tt cup) 50g.g. (2(2oz., andcook cook inin 50 and tablespoons) powdered sugar, a added 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) added lemon rind or vanilla. Stir little lernon and aa little pinchof cinnamon, and ofcinnamon, pinch or spatula. When the spoonor wooden spoon with aa wooden continuously wilh continuously thickened, add 3 or 4 tableconsiderably thickened, mixture isisconsiderably apple mixture apple jam. apricot jam. spoonsapricot spoons round withaa round coverwith andcover mixture and the mixture with the mould with Fill the the mould Fill 180'C. oven atat180°C. Cook inin1the melted butter. Cook dippedininmel ofbread bread dipped of tee! butter. he oven charthecharLeave the 40minutes. minutes' Leave (350"F., Gas for35 to40 35to Mark4)4)for Gas Mark (350°F., 205 205

CHASSELAS CHASSELAS (stuffing side this on on top top of of the filling (stuffing the filling side down). down). To To remove remove the the this paper, put puton onit, it, for for aasecond second only, only, aa hot hot lid lid which which melts melts the paper, the butter. Join Join the the forcemeat forcemeat lid lid toto the forcemeat surround the foreemeat surround butter. point of with the the point of aa knife. knife. with 'The chartreuse chartreuse being completed, coyer being completed, cover the the top top with with aa 'The circle of paper, and of buttered put ilit in (q.v.) for buttered paper, and put in aa bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.) for circle an hour hour and and aa half. half. an 'To decorate, place aa ring decorate, plaee ring of of small small white white mushrooms mushrooms on on 'To the chartreuse, chartreuse, and and in in the put aa rosette the centre centre put rosette of of 88 filets the filets (fowl or mignons àd la Ia Conti game, according Conti (fowl or game, according to to the the nature nature mignons of the the basic ragot$ in in the basic ragoût) form of the form crescent, topped of aa crescent, topped by by aa of mushroom.' mushroom.' partridgg or Charheuse of pheasant -- See of partridge, or pheasant PARTRIDGE, See PARTRIDGE, Chartreuse PHEASANT. PHEASANT. prrrrEs CHARLittle chartreuses charheuses of of larks larks àt la la française. frangaise. PETITES cHARLittle TREUS$ OE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvrETrrs ÀA LA r.l fRANÇAISE FRAN9ATsE -- Prepare Prepare in tn dariole dariole TREUSES (individual custard moulds custard mou moulds) in the the same same way way as mou Ids (individual Ids) in as partridge (see (see PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse of of par/ridge PARTRIDGE). Chartreuse The larks, larks, boned gratin forcemeal boned and and stulTed with àa gralin (see stuffed with The forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT), and gras and and withfoie withfoie gras and truffies, truffies, are are rolled rolled FORCEMEAT), into aa neat neat shape shape and and set set ta to cook cook in in cabbage. cabbage. into The dariole dariole mou moulds are Iined lined with glazed carrots with glazed carrots and and The Ids are turnips eut cut into into small small balls, peas and balls, with with peas and diced green diced green turoips haricot beans beans cooked cooked in in salted salted water. water. These These vegetables haricot in alternate are disposed disposed in alternate layers and and kept in place by kept in layer by aa layer are quenelle forcemeat. of quenelle forcemeat. The The larks, larks, individually wrapped wrapped in in of placed one one in in each each mould. mould. Coyer Cover them braised cabbage, are placed quenelle forcemeat. Cook with aa quenelle pan of in aa pan Cook in of hot hot water water or with or bain-marie, in in the for 30 the oyen oven for 30 minutes. bain-marie, pour game game sauce, To serve, serve, pour sauce, made made with game stock, with ririch stock, To ch game the birds. over the

CHATEAUBRIAND CHATEAUBRIAND -- Method Method of preparing aa beef of preparing fillet beef fillet invented invented by by Montmireil, Montmireil, chef chef to to Chateaubriand. Chateaubriand. The Thechateaubriand chateaubriand isis aa thick thick sUce taken from from the slice taken middle the middle of grilled and of the the fillet, fillet, grilled and served garnished with served garnished with château chdteau potatoes (q.v.) (q.v.) and pO/alOes and accompanied accompanied by chdteau sauce by chateau sauce or or béarbiarnaise naise sauce. sauce. More More rarely (See rarely the the chateaubriand chateaubriand isis sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. (See BEEF, BEEF, Chateaubriand.) Chateaubriand.) CHÂTEAUNEUF-DU-PAPE CHATEAUNEUF-DU.PAPE -- The The red red wines wines of of ChâleauChdteauneuf-du-Pape, neuf-du-Pape, aa small small commune commune in in Vaucluse, Vaucluse, enjoy enjoy aa worldworldwide wide reputation. reputation. They They are are derived derived principally principally from from the the vine vine stocks stocks Grenache, Grenache, Clairette, Clairette, Syrah Syrah and and Mourvedre. Mourvddre. They They powerful, full-bodied are are powerful, full-bodied tannie, tannic, aromatic aromatic wines wines that that age age weil. well. Sorne producers olTer Some producers offer aa full-bodied, full-bodied, aromatic, aromatic, white white Châteauneuf-du-Pape Chdteauneuf-du-Pape which which isis not not without without meri!. merit. These These wines wines have have been famous for been famous for aa long long time. time. When When Pope Pope Urban Urban XX wished wished to to transfer transfer the papal chair the papal chair from from Avignon to Avignon to Rome Rome he met with he met with aa great great deal deal of of opposition opposition from aa number from number of of Cardinals Cardinals who who did did not not wish wish to leave aa to leave part of part of the the country country producing producing such such exquisite exquisite wines. wines. CHATOUILLARD CHATOUILLARD-- Name given to potatoes which Name given which are are eut cut with aa special with special implement into into long long ribbons ribbons and and deep deep fried. (See POTATOES.) (See POTATOES.) Cha/ouillard Chatouillard was also the was also the nickname given given to to an an expert expert chef or fri/urier. or an an excellent excellent rô/issier rAfissier or friturier. CHAOURCE CHAOURCE -- See See CHEESE.

CHAUD-FROID -- Preparation CHAUD-FRom Preparation of game whieh of fowl fowl or or game which is cooked as as aa hot dish, but but served served cold. Phil6as Gilbert Philéas Gilbert says says that that the the chaud-froid chaud-froid originated originated at the 1759, and the Château Ch0teau Montmorency in in 1759, and Ihat that itit was was given ils name name by by the mar6chal maréchal de Luxembourg himself. its de Luxembourg 'The mar6chal 'The maréchal de had invited aa large and de Luxembourg Luxembourg had and evenbrilliant assembly to his castle at at Montmorency that evening. ing. His table was famous as as one best in the French one of the best kingdom. While While waiting waiting for for grace grace to to be be said, kingdom. said, aa valet arrivai ofa royal courier, courier, bearer bearer ofa message message announced the arrival to the the mardchal maréchal requiring his his immediate immediate presence at at the the to king's counci!. council. 'There was instant instant dismay; dismay; disappointment disappointment showed itself every face. But the the mar6chal maréchal commanded that his his absence absence on every banquet, and left. lef!. should in no way delay the serving of the banquet, 'The 'The guests guests took their their places places at the the table table in in an an atmosphere atmosphere of constraint, uneasy uneasy in the absence of their host, host, and only only of paying paying distracted distracted attention to the dishes dishes served served with with ununaccustomed accllstomed haste. haste. 'The 'The mar6chal maréchal returned returned very very late laie and and imperiously imperiously dedemanded to to be be served, served, but but he he only wanted aa single dish, dish, aa manded fricassée of chicken embalmed embalmed in in its its ivory-coloured ivory-coloured sauce sauce fricassie which the the famished mar6chal maréchal tasted tasted with with pleasure. pleasure. Nothing Nothing which remains so firmly firmly in in the the mind mind as as aa dish dish which which has has been been enenremains joyed, joyed. and and some sorne days afterwards afterwards the the mar6chal maréchal expressed expressed the wish wish for for the the succulent cold cold fricassde fricassée to to be be served served again. again. the 'The 'The dish dish was was presented presented under un der the the name name refroidi, refroidi, but but this this name name displeased displeased the the mar6chal maréchal who who insisted insisted that that itit should should appear on on the the menu menu under under the the name name of of chaud-froid) chaud-froid.' appear is also also written written but but itit is is ininChauds-froids -- (Chaufroids (Chaufroids is Chauds-froids correct) are are in in fact fact chicken chicken fricassies fricassées or or salmis salmis of of game game correct) served cold, eold, covered coveœd with with their their gravy gravy and glazed, glazed with with aspic. aspic. served They are are served served with with the the appropriate appropriate chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce They and and glazed glazed with with aa clear clear aspic aspic jelly. jelly. Recipes for for chwds-froirly chauds-froids of ofchicken, chic ken, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, Recipes quails, quails, thrushes, thrushes, will will be be found found under under these these headings. headings. Here isis Car€me's Carême's recipe recipe for for chaud-froid chaud-froidof ofchicken chicken inin aspic. aspic. Here Chaud-froid of of chicken chirken in in aspic aspic (Car6meos (Carême's recipe). recipe). cHAUDCHAUDChaud-froid

CHASSELAS -- Species of vine vine stock stock considered considered to provide CHASSEI"AS provide grapes. the best dessert grapes. The fame of the is eSlablished established The fame of the Fontainebleau Fontainebleau Chasselas is everywhere. 11 It is that it originally imported everywhere. is believed believed that it was was originally into area around around Thomery from Switzerland in in the into the the area from Switzerland sixteenth century. century. The The introduction of Chasselas sixteenth introduction of Chasselas into inlo goes back Switzerland itself Switzerland itself goes back to to the the Roman Roman conquest by Julius Caesar. The Chasselas vines have always been grown grown in Turkey. in Turkey. Only Only the the white white variety, variety, or or the the ros6 rosé or or violet violet varieties (obtained (obtained by by careful careful selection and and budding), are are known, known, despite the fact fact that in in their wild wild state all ail vines have black black grapes. The Chasselas vine stock is found in in Switzerland, Switzerland, grapes. The Savoy Pouilly-sur-Loire in the Nidvre. Nièvre. (The appellation Savoy and Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly Pouilly Fum6 Fumé is is reserved reserved for for Sauvignon wines.) The wine produced produced from from the Chasselas grape is light light and fruity, rruity, best best drunk drunk young young and slightly chilled. chilled. CHASSEUR (A (À LA) - Method Method of preparation preparation applied applied to small pieces pieees of of meat, meat, fowl fowl or eggs eggs which which is is characterised by by aa garnish garnish of of sliced, sliced, saut6ed sautéed mushrooms, mushrooms, flavoured flavoured with with shallots shallots and moistened moistened with with white white wine. wine. (See (See BEEF. BEEF, ZourTournedos nedos chasseur.\ chasseur.) CHASSE CHASSE ROYALE ROYAI"E -- Roast Roast composed composed of of various various game game arranged arranged in in aa pyramid pyramid on on aa large large dish. dish.

CHATEAU CHÂTEAlJ (Steak, (Steak, potatoes, potatoes, sauce) sauce) -- Name Name given given to to aa rather rather thick thick slice sliee of of porterhouse porterhouse steak steak (sirloin (sirloin uppercut), uppercut), weighing weighing 800 800 e. g. to to I1 kg. kg. (l| (1 to to 2+ 2i lb.), lb.), or or aa slice sliee cut eut from from aa

rib rib of of beef. beef.

*

This of meat, meat, which which in in restaurants restaurants isis called c.alled entrec|te en/recole This piece pieee of chkteau, château, isis generally generally grilled. grilled.

The The name name also also applies applics to to potatoes potatoes cut eut into into long long strips strips and and cooked cooked in in butter butter (see (see POTATOES) POTATOES) and and in in restaurants restaurants Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce sauce is is sometimes sometimes abbreviated abbreviated to to Chdteau Château sauce. sauce. 206 206

CHEESE CHEESE Prepare aa courtcourt' Fish soup. soup. Prepare CHAUDRÉE DE FOURAS -- Fish CHAUDREE DE piece and white wine, wine, aa pie of butter butter and bouillon with with herbs, herbs, white ce of bouillon seasoning. seasoning. Cut various fish -- conger conger eel, whiting, sole, plaice, raiteau, pieces. etc. etc. -- into pieces. put into First put firm fish fish such such as into the the court-bouillon court-bouillon the the firm First less firm firm fish. fish. Boil few minutes later add add the the less conger eel. eel. A few fish and the the fish for 15 minutes. minutes. Add butter. Serve Serve the the soup soup and for 15 Add butter. separately. separately. used copper cauldron, cauldron, used CHAUDRON (Cauldron) -- Small Small copper CHAUDRON for for cooking. and confit de porc (preserved goose and pork) Confit d'oie and are cooked cooked in in this copper cauldrons Untinned copper are this utensil. utensil. Untinned jams and and preserves. may also also be for home-made home-made jams may be used used for

CHAUMONT -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

CHAYOTECHA VOTE - See CUST ARD MARROW. MARROW. CUSTARD

Chaud-froid presented on aa disb; dish; behind, the three-tiered plinth ofpoultry presented Chaud-froid ofpoultry made made of of breadcrumb breadcrumb on which it is mounted

poul.Er À FROID r-n GELÉE cnrEp FRoID DE DE POULET A LA

lightly singed - 'After having lightly for 5 fine soak them them for and soak cut them them up up and fine farmyard farmyard chickens, cut 2 hours in in lukewarm Drain them, plunge them into lukewarm water. Drain cold water, and put them in a pan with enough cover enough stock to coyer them completely. Boil for aa few minutes, then drain and and put them in pieces of chicken and again. Trim Trim the the pieces in cold cold water water again. sauté heat. Sprinkle with aa in butter over aa moderate heat. saut6 them in !ittle pour in in the the strained strained to sauté, then pour little flour, flour, continue continue to saut6, then stock. little nutmeg, aa bouquet of with salt, salt, aa !ittle season with Stir, season stock. Stir, parsley, ions, thyme, parsley, spring onions stuck thyme, bay, bay, basil, basil, 22 onions spring on onions, with 2 cloyes, the boil to the peeled mushrooms. Bring to 12 peeled cloves, and and 12 and Remove the the minutes. Skim Skim carefully. carefully. Remove and simmer for 30 30 minutes. simmer for pieces pieces of chicken with spoon, draining them, with aa perforated spoon, and place in in aa covered covered casserole. and place 'Boil remove from from 'Boil down the to aa good consistency, consistency, remove the sauce to yolks. Return the heat, and later add add 55 egg egg yolks. the Return the the heat, and 2 2 minutes later pan pan to the all the the beat, heat, stirring ail the time, time, until until the the sauce sauce almost reaches is cold pour onereaches the boil, then sieve it. it. As soon as as it is third you shake once or into the third into the fricassée, or twice and fricassie, which you set in the for 30 crushed ice. ice. Arrange Arrange the the dish dish in the set for 30 minutes on on crushed following manner: 'Place 'Place the in the the form form of aa crown crown on on the legs legs of the the chickens chickens in the place the the entrée entrie dish. dish. In In the the middle, middle, place above the wings, wings, and and above the legs noses and put the parsons'noses legs put and the On top top of of the parsons' the breasts. breasts. On these put the as close close together as as possible. these put the fillets, fillets, as 'As much height as entrie, as possible should be be given to this entrée, which in which should crowned with with aa fine fine truffie truffie cooked cooked in should be be crowned Champagne, cock's comb. comb. Champagne, and and topped with aa white double cock's 'Work (* cup) lukewarm cup) lukewarm 'Work the tablespoons (t the sauce sauce with with 44 tablespoons Aspic jelly (see (see ASPIC) very smooth make itit very which should make ASPIC) which and (removing the and thick. Coyer the surface surface of the the fricassée Cover the fricassie (removing truffie piece with replaced). Surround the piece truffie which which isis later later replaced). Surround the chopped in two cut in in aspic in two colours colours cut chopped aspic aspic and and aa border border of of aspic decorative shapes. (Carême, le Ie Pâtissier Phtissier Then serve dish.'(Car€me, serve the dish.' shapes. Then parisien.)

Making Beaufortin Making cheese cheese at at Beaufortin (French Governmenl (French Tourist Office) Goverwnent Tourisl Ofice)

product of curds, CHEESE. is aa product curds, drained drained CHEESE. FROMAGE FRoMAGE -- Cheese is and, and, more more often not, fermented. From the the ear!iest earliest often than than not, fermented. From times in stock-rearing stock-rearing countries countries to to made in times cheese cheese has has been been made use y different are so so man many different use up up surplus milk. Nowadays, there there are kinds of cheese that no list, however however long, long, could could cJaim claim to to be no list, complete. country, every district, has has its its own own special special complete. Every Every country, every district, cheese. high reputacheeses have have aa deservedly deservedly high cheese. Many local cheeses Many local tion. produces Gruyère and Emmenthal; Gruy6re and Emmenthal; tion. Switzerland Switzerland produces England, and Stilton; ltaly, Parmesan Parmesan England, Cheshire, Stilton; ltaly, Cheshire, Cheddar and and and so so on. on. It It and Gorgonzola; Gorgonzola; Holland, Gouda Gouda and and Edam, Edam, and justly be may has so so no country country has may justly however, that that no claimed, however, be claimed, great great aa variety and as France, France, where where almost almost and range of of cbeeses cheeses as every has its its own own local local cheese. cheese. every rural rural district has The know from from The history of of cheese cheese is is aa very very ancient ancient one. one. We know the remains of enorthe Manuel de de l'Antiquité l'Antiquiti celtique celtique that that the the remains of enormous cheese draining found on on Mont Mont Beuvray. Beuvray. draining racks can be found can be The fromage persillé, persilli. herb-injected The art art of makingy'ornage herb-injected cheese, cheese, of making goes goes back powcheese with with powRomans who who mixed mixed their their cheese back to to the the Romans dered de la Ia Histoire de dered thyme. thyme. Le Le Grand Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy in in his his book book Histoire vie privée (1783) says: 'Even today privie des in certain certain des Français Frangais (1783) says: 'Even today in regions regions of cheese impregnated impregnated with with of Lorraine Lorraine they they make make aa cheese fennel fennel seeds'. seeds'.

207 207

CHEESE CHEESE Themilk milkofofcows, goats,ewes, cows,goats, ewes,and andsometimes sometimesother other The mammals,can canbe usedskimmed, partlyskimmed, beused skimmed,partly skimmed,whole, whole,oror mammals, enrichedwith withadded addedcream. cream.Coagulation place Coagulationcan cantake takeplace enriched spontaneously, that thatisistotosay sayby bythe thenatural naturalfermentation fermentation ofof spontaneously, themilk, milk,ororititcan canbe inducedby beinduced theaddition addition ofofcertain bythe certain the vegetable juices.Most Mostoften oftenititisisbrought broughtabout aboutby vegetablejuices. bythe theaction action ofrenne rennet, curdlingagent agentextracted extractedfrom fromthe thestomachs of t, aacurdling stomachsofof young mammals. mammals. Rennet (dried Rennet may maybe usedininsolid young beused solidform form(dried (plainororseasoned fresh) or orfresh) liquidform orininliquid form(plain seasonedwith or withherbs). herbs). Curdlingwith with rennet rennetisiscarried carriedout outinindifferent Curdling different ways. ways.The The milk may may be left totocurdle curdle ininco beleft milk Id surroundings, cold surroundings, when whenvery very little rennet rennetisisused. used.ItItmay maybe becurdled little curdled atataahigher highertemperatempera(38' toto40°C., ture(38° 40oC., 100° 100"to 104"F.) ininwhich ture to104°F.) whichcase casemore morerennet rennet required. isisrequired. The moulding mouldingof ofthe thecheese, cheese, which The which isisthe thelast laststage stageininthe the drainage of ofthe the curds, curds, isiscarried carried out drainage outininosier osierbaskets, baskets, ororinin pottery, wood earthenware, pottery, earthenware, wood or or tinplate tinplate moulds. moulds. These Theseare are usually covered covered with usually with aaclotho cloth. For Forsoft softcheeses, cheeses, the thecurds curdsare are carefully broken broken up put ininthe carefully up before before being being put themoulds. moulds.For For hard cheeses, cheeses, ail putting the hard all moisture moisture isisexpelled expelled by curds by putting thecurds press, or through aa press, through by draining draining them or by between two them between twoboards boards with weights weights on with on top. top. At this thisstage, process of At stage, the theprocess fermentation begins. offermentation begins.TheoretiTheoretiprocess isis divided cally this cally this process divided into into three three stages stageswhich, which,inin practice, tend practice, tend more lessto more or or less to overlap: overlap: 1.1. The The action action of of the the ferments ferments inin the the milk milk which which attack attack (sugarof the the lactose lactose (sugar of milk) milk) and and tum turn itit into into lactic lactic acid. acid. 2.2. The The culture culture of of fungi fungi which which appear appear on on the thesurface surface of of the quickly form the curds curds and and quickly form aa thick, thick, furry furry fungoid fungoidskin skin (known in (known in the the cheese cheese trade trade as 'white'). These as the These fungi the 'white'). fungifeed feed on lactic acid on the the lactic acid as as soon soon as as itit isis formed, formed, up up to to the the time time when when ail all the the lactose lactose has has been play aa part used. They part inin the been used. They also also play the maturing maturing of particular, itit isis these of the the curds. curds. In In particular, these fungi fungi which which give give to to certain certain cheeses cheeses their their characteristic characteristic and and much-prized much-prized bitter bitter flavour; flavour; but but their action must their action not be promust not allowed to be allowed to proceed ceed unchecked. unchecked. 3. The culture culture of 3. The of secondary secondary microbes. microbes. These These are are organorganisms isms of of various various kinds, kinds, microbes, microbes, fungi, fungi, mildew, mildew, mainly mainly red red or (known in or orange orange in in colour colour (known in the the cheese cheese trade trade as 'red'). as the the 'red'). Their Their function function isis to to inhibit, inhibit, by by co-existence, co-existence, the the too-rapid too-rapid breeding of of the the fungi fungi of 'red' of the phase. Once the second second phase. Once the the 'red' has has been formed, the been formed, the cheeses cheeses settle settle down down and and mature mature more more or quickly according or less less quickly according to to their their nature. nature.

Drainingcurds curds Draining

We also also know know that that Blanche Blanche de de Navarre Navarre sent sent 200 200 cheeses cheeses We to Philippe Philippe Auguste Auguste every year, and poet François every year, and that that the the poet Frangois to Villon bequeathed bequeathed in in his his famous famous will will aa talmouze, talmouze, aa kind kind of of Villon cheese soufflé, souffi6, to to rus his friend friend Jehan Jehan Ragnier. Ragnier. cheese It was was the the custom custom at at the the beginning beginning of the fifteenth fifteenth century of the century It gift of to send send aa gift persons one of cheeses cheeses to to persons one admired. admired. For For example, example, to Charles d'Orléans, year 1407, d'Orl6ans, in in the the year 1407, sent 'ladies sent several several to to 'ladies Charles to whom whom he he was was attached'. attached'. In In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century Brie Brie to cheese was was considered considered the the best best of of ail. all. The The cheeses cheeses of of cheese Dauphin6, Vexin, Vexin, Auvergne, Auvergne, Switzerland, Switzerland, Holland, Holland, and and Dauphiné, Italy were also very much much in also very in demand. demand. Italy Madame de de Montespan Montespan invented invented 100 100 sauces sauces using using cheese. cheese. Madame When Louis Louis XVI XVI stopped stopped at at Varennes Varennes in in need need of of refreshrefreshWhen ment he he asked asked for for wine and and cheese. cheese. ment ln 1777 1777 there there were about about thirty thirty varieties varieties that that had had made made aa In name for for themselves. Later Later Metternich Metternich gave gave aa reception reception at name at he served served ail all the French cheeses, cheeses, and and invited guests invited his his guests which he part in to take part in competitions competitions for for choosing choosing the the best. to Fresh cheeses are distinct from from other other cheeses cheeses in in not not being Fresh cheeses being fermented. They are are produced by spontaneous coagulation by spontaneous coagulation fermented. (Fromage àd la pie) or coagulation coagulation with (petit-suisse). with rennet rennet (Petit-suisse). (Fromage Fermented cheeses made rnade from raw cunis curds are are of two Fermented cheeses two kinds: kinds: from raw (Brie, Coulommiers, soft cheeses cheeses (Brie, Coulommiers, Camembert, Camembert, Livarot, soft Livarot, Pont-l'Ev€que, etc.), etc.), and (Dutch, Cantal, and hard hard cheeses cheeses (Dutch, Pont-I'Evêque, Cantal, Cheshire, Roquefort, Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, etc.). etc.). There There are Cheshire, Roquefort, are also cheeses (Gruvbre, Emmenthal, scalded cunis curds (Gruyère, cheeses made made from from scalded Parmesan, Port-Salut, etc.). Parmesan, Port-Salut,

Cheese cellar cellar Cheese (Maison Androuit. Androuët. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) (Maison Cheese shop (Nicolas) (Nrcolcs) Cheese shop

208 208

CHEESE CHEESE

r*

w ( I*doyen. Phot. Nicolas) platter (Ledoyell. Cheese Chee se platter Phal. Nicolas)

guests. This This applies applies round to to the the guests. is handed handed round into itit before before itit is into guests shy guests are always always shy for there there are whole cheeses, cheeses, for to whole especially to especially Camembert' an uncut uncut Camembert. say, an to start, start, say, reluctant to who are are reluctant who judicial precedents precedents regulate regulate and judicial decrees and Various laws, laws, decrees Various cheeses. French cheeses. given to various French to various names given the names use of of the the legal legal use the for reserved for strictly reserved for instance, instance, isis strictly Roquefort, for The name name Roquefort, The are clearly clearly area whose whose boundaries boundaries are an area from an coming from cheeses coming cheeses as Camembert, Camembert, such as cheeses, such other cheeses, case of of other In the the case laid down. down. In laid clear followed by by aa clear must be be followed name must the name and Port-Salut, Port-Salut, the Brie, and Brie, the cheese cheese which the in which district in or district dipartement or the département of the indication of indication made. has been been made. has in France France made in cheeses made 400 different different cheeses least 400 are at at least There are There cheeses French cheeses appreciated French most appreciated lists the the most This section section lists alone. This alone. are obtainable obtainable inin which are cheeses which foreign cheeses many foreign as weil well as as rriany as and elsewhere. France and elsewhere. France from season from which isis inin season cheese which Belgian cheese Aettekees - Belgian AettekeesMay. to May. November to November from season from which isis inin season B6arn which made inin Béarn Amou -- Cheese Cheese made Amou to May. May. November to November November from November in season from cheeseinseason Arrigny -- AA Champagne Champagne cheese Arrigny May. to May. to Novemfrom Novemseasonfrom which isisininSeason cheese which Asco -- Corsican Corsican cheese Asco May. to May. ber to ber year. theyear. throughout the cheese eaten eaten throughout Normandy cheese Aurore -- Normandy Aurore all eaten ail andcan canbe beeaten 'cow cheese' cheese' and called This isisca Autrm -- This AutWl lied 'cow year round. round. the year the district isis Orldanais district theOrléanais fromthe (Les) Aydes This cheese cheesefrom. Aydes -- This (Les) andJune. June. October and betweenOctober seasonbetween ininseason In Alps. In theAlps. foothillsof ofthe thefoothills Provence, ininthe MadeininProvence, Banon- -Made Banon November. May totoNovember. fromMay seasonfrom season yearround. round. allthe theyear eatenail cheese eaten Beaufort - - Savoy Savoycheese Beaufort fromOctober October season from whichisisininseason cheesewhich Savoycheese Beaumont- -Savoy Beaumont June. totoJune.

protein first-class prote is aa first-class cheese is Dietetically in speaking, cheese Dietetically speaking, rich in in It isis rich diets. It vegetarian diets. meat in in vegetarian capable of replacing meat capable of in minerai mineral and in and C, C, and 82, and A, BI, Bl, B2, proteins, proteins, fats, fats, Vitamins Vitamins A, feror ferfatty or some fatty from sorne and, apart apart from digestible and, salts. is very very digestible salts. It is constitutions. all constitutions. for ail is suitable suitable for mented varieties, is mented varieties, goes with which with which wine goes about which which wine written about Much has has been been written of taste. taste. SaintSaintmatter of entirely aa matter It isis entirely particular particular cheese. cheese. It this opinion opinion but this spur, but as aa drinking drinking spur, cheese as Amand described cheese Amand described of the the value of the value over-emphasise the can over-emphasise isis deba ta ble, for for cheese cheese can debatable, quality. The The its true true quality. of its impression of give aa false wine false impression and give wine and relief. into relief. them into to throw throw them cheese to require cheese great great wines not require wines do do not goats' wines suit suit goats' White wines generally best. best. White Red are generally Red wines wines are and cheese and Comte cheese cheese dishes; dishes; Comte cooked cheese milk and cooked milk cheeses cheeses and Never serve serve go very together. Never very weil well together. Château-Chalon wine go Chiteau-Chalon wine the great wines with cheese. cheese. wines with the great whatever of whatever cheeses of France, cheeses In France, The cheese -- ln of cheese The serving serving of (dessert). Thus Thus sweet (dessert). the sweet before the kind, served before always served kind, are are always salad or the the sai course, or main course, follow the the main they ad normally follow would normally they would and meat and after the the meat separately after ifif this served separately should be be served this should vegeta bles. vegetables. plate, on aa separate separate plate, alone on served alone Each usually served cheese isis usually Each cheese board. cheese board. on aa cheese but be served served on may also also be cheeses may but cheeses asthe the time as sametime the same fresh butter butteratat the ItIt isis desirable serve fresh to serve desirable to as they they not, as or not, take butter butter or may take cheese. way, diners diners may In this this way, cheese. In take butter butter prefer not not toto take please. please. Generally, connoisseurs prefer Generally, connoisseurs with their cheese. cheese. with their and (U.S. crackers) kindsand various kinds of various crackers) of Savoury biscuits (D.S. Savoury biscuits With cheese. With with cheese. served with may also also be be served slices of black black bread bread may slices of cumin. servecumin. usualtotoserve certain Munster, itit isisusual notably Munster, cheeses, notably certain cheeses, provide aasuitable suitable alsoprovide Fresh fennelalso or bulb bulb fennel celeryor heads of ofcelery Fresh heads accompaniment cheese. forcheese. accompaniment for the first totothe thecheese cheese first offerthe ItIt isis the France totooffer custom inin France thecustom knife theknife anddrives drivesthe master He examines examinesititand house. He ofthe thehouse. master of 209 209

CHEESE

CHEESE

Beaupr6 de Roybon Cheese made in the Dauphin6 which Beaupré de Roybon - -Cheese made in the Dauphiné which is in season from November to April. is in season from November 10 April. Bleu d'Auvergne - A blue mould cheese which is also Bleu d'Auvergne A blue mouJd cheese which is also known under the name of BIeu de Salers and is in season known under the name of Bleu de Salers and is in season from November to May. It is usually made of a mixture of from November la May. Il is lIslially made of a mixlure of goats', ewes'and cows' milk. goats', ewes' and cows' milk. Bleu de Basillac Cheese made theLimousin LimousindépartediparteBleu de Basillac - - Cheese made ininthe ment. lt resembles Roquefort, and is at its best between ment. It resembles Roquefort, and is at ils best between November and May. November and May. Blers frangais (French blue cheeses) - In France there are Bleus français (French bine cheeses) - In France there are a number of these cheeses, which have something in common a number ofthese cheeses, which have something in common with Roqueforl but are less delicate flavour. Among Among the the with Roquefort but are less delicate inin f1avour. best of these are Blan d'Auvergne, made chiefly in the Montchiefly in the Montbest of these are Bleu d'Auvergne, made Dore district; Fourme d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and, Th\nes Dore district; Fourme d'Ambert, Grand bornant, and Thônes of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made from cows, of the Haute-Savoie; the Blue cheese Gex, made from cows' milk in the Ain dipartement; Champolion from the eueyras milk in the Ain déparlemenl; Champo/éon from the Queyras (in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made (in the High Alps); Saint-Marcellin and Sassenage, made in the Isdre district; Septmoncel,made in the Jura mountains. in the Isère district; Septmoncel, made in the Jura mounlains. According to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk According to the producers of Roquefort, cows' milk cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct categories of cheeses. of cheeses. cheeses and Roquefort are two distinct categories Persill{ is the term used for Roquefort and, bleu the term term Persillé is the tcrm used for Roquefort and bleu the used for other veined cheeses. However, the,persilli, of the used for other veined cheeses. However, the 'persillé' of the Aravis is allowed. Aravis is allowed. Blue cheeses frm other lan6 A great many blue cheeses Blue cheeses from olher lands -- A great many blue cheeses are made outside France. They include blue Tyrolem from are made outside France. They include blue Tyrolean from Rastadt; Cabrales from the Asturias; Portuguese CastelloRastadt; Cabra/es from the Asturias; Portuguese Caslel/obranco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in Switzerland: Stilton from branco; Sarrazin from Sarraz in Switzerland; SI ilion from England; the Italian Stracchino which has something in England; the Italian Siracchino which has something in common with Gorgonzola. common with Gorgonzola. Bo-ndon - Variety of cheese which is made in Normandy, Bnndon - Variety of cheesc which is made in Normandy, mostly around Rouen. It is a whole-milk, small,loaf-shaped mostly around Rouen. Il is a whole-milk, small, loaf-shaped cheese, rather like Gournay in texture, but with 2 per Cent but with 2 per cent cheese, rather like Gournay in texture, sugar added. It is about 7l cm. (3 and 4 4 to cm. sugar added. Il is about 7i cm. (3 inches) inches) high high and to 55 cm. (l| to 2 inches) in diameter. (l1- to 2 inches) in diameter. Bosson macer6 - French cheese made in provence, which Bosson macéré French cheese made in Provence, which is in season from December to March. is in season from December to March. Bouille Cheese made @a) (La) Bouille -- Cheese made in in Normandy, Normandy, which wh.ich is is in in season between October and Mav. season between October and May. Boule de Lille - Dutch cheese, known in Holland under Boule de Lille - Dutch cheese, knowll in Holland under the name of Oude Kaas, which can be eaten all the year round. the name of OuLie Kaas, which can be eaten al! the year round.

Boulette d'Avesneg

or Boulette

Boulette d'Avesnes, or Boulette de de Cambrai Cambrai -- Cheese Cheese made in Flanders, in season from November to Mav. made in Flanders. in season from November to May. Brie - This cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ugo u, - This cheese has a claim to nobility. As long ago as theBrie fifteenth century, Charles father ol iouis father the fifteenth century. Charles d'Orl6ans, year of Louis XII, ordered Bries by the dozen tod'Orléans, give XII, ordered Bries by the dozen to give as as New New Year presents presents to his friends. Two centuries later, Saint Amant, the poet of the poet of to his [riends. Two centuries later, Saint Amant, good living, devoted a much-quoted ode to ,this genile;am good living, devoted a much-guoted ode to 'th.is gent le jam of Bacchus': of Bacchus': Sus ! qu'd plein gosier

Sus! qu'à plein gosier on on s'icrie: s'écrie: Biny soit Ie tetitoire de Brie. Bény soil le territoire de Brie, Pont-l'Evdque, arriire de nous! Pont-/'Evêque, arrière de nous' Auvergne et Milan, cachez-vous. Auvergne el Milan, cachez-vous. C'est luy seulement qui mirite C'est luy seulement qui mérile or sa gloire soit Qu'en Qu'en or sa glOire soil escrite; escrile; Je dis en or avec raison, Je dis en Or avec railOn, qu' Puis il fe ro i t c ompar a ison Puisqu'ilferoil comparaison De ce fromage que j'honore De ce fromage que j'honore A ce mdtal que l'homme ce mé/aljaune que l'hommeadore: adore: IIAest aussi que luy; Il eSI aussi jaune que luy; Toutefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Toulefois ce n'est pas d'ennuy, Car, si tost que le doigt Ie presse, 10SI que le doigt le presse, IlCar, rit etsi se crdve de gresse . . . Il rit el se crève de gresse ... Hd! pourquoy n'est-il Wny lié! pourquoy n'est-il infiny Tout aussi bien en sa matiire TOUl aussi bien en sa matière l'estoit en sa efiidre ? Qu'il Qu'il l'e5/Oii en saforme forme entière? Pourquoy tousjours s' apet issant, Pourquoy tous jours s'apelissant, De lune devient-il croissant? . . . De lune devient-il croissant? ...

2r0 210

Now[hen, then,let letususshout shoutwith withailallour ourmight: might: Now Blessedbebethe theland landof ofBrie. Brie. Blessed Pont-l'Ev6que, get getthee theebehiud behindusus! Pont-l'Evêque, ~ Auvergneand andMilan, Milan,out outofofour oursight. sight. Auvergne Briealone alonedeserves deservesthat thatwe we Brie Should record recordher praisesininletters herpraises lettersof gold. ofgold. Should Gold,l Isay, say,and andwith withgood goodreason, reason, Gold, Sinceititisiswith withgold gold that thatone one must mustcompare compare Since This chee cheese towhich which 1I now now pay pay homage. homage. This se to yellow as as yellow gold worshipped as the thegold worshipped by by man, man, ltIt isisas But without without its itsanxiety anxiety But For one one has has only only toto press press itit with with one's one's fingers fingers For For itit to tosplit split its its sides sideswith with laughter laughter For And run run over over with with fat. fat. And Why then, then, isis itit not not endless endless Why As indeed indeed its its circular circular form form isis endless? endless ? As Why must must its its full full moon, moon, eternally eternally appetising, appetising, Why Wanetoacrescent?... Wane to a crescent? ... The cheese cheese of of Brie Brie has has not not deterioraled deteriorated since since that that time. The time. On the the contrary, contrary, itit has has actually actually improved improved in quality and in quality and isis On now more more uniformly uniformly good, good, since since the the local local fa farmers, abannow rmers, abandoning the the old old methods, methods, use use the the ferments ferments tested tested and and recomrecomdoning mended by by the the laboratory laboratory at at La La Ferté-sous-Jouarre. Fert6-sous-Jouarre. mended Brie is is fully fully ripe ripe when when the cheese cheese is ail all of of the same same texture. Brie pressure is When pressure is exerted exerted on on the the surface surface of of aa section section the When cheese should should bulge bulge but but not not run. run. Brie Brie is is made made in in various cheese sizes. A large Brie A large Brie may may be (22 inches) in be up to to 54 54 cm. cm. (22 in diamdiam. sizes. eter, aa medium Brie up (16 inches), up to to 42 42 cm. cm. (16 inches), aa small one eter, medium Brie not more than (13 inches). than 33 33 cm. cm. (13 inches). There There are dilferent different kinds not more of Brie Brie known as Briesjermiers, Bies fermiers, lailiers laitiers and and fagon Coulomof known as façon Coulommiers. miers. It gallons) to 20 litres 3] gallons) It takes takes from from 13 13 litres litres (2* (2~ gallons, gallons, 3i (4] gallons) milk 5| gallons) cheese, according (4t gallons, gallons, 51 milk to to make aa cheese, according tosize. Although some experti to size. Although whole whole milk milk is always used, sorne experts advise advise aa little little skimming skimming - bringrng bringing the the percentage percentage of of cieam cream down down to to 25 25 or or 27 27 per per cent cent - because, hecause, they they maintain, maintain, a higher higher cream Cfeam content content makes makes the the cheese cheese bitter. bitter. good Brie Brie must must be be creamy but not not runny, runny, and should -be AApalegood be pale yellow yellow in in colour. colour. Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. At At its its best best from from November November to to May. May. Brie Brie de de Coulommiers. Coulommiers. Smaller Smaller than than Brie Brie de de Meaux Meaux -- approapproximately ximately 26 26 cm. cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. At At its ils best-from best from November November to to May. May. Brie Brie de de Melun. Melun. This This isis made made in in thicker thicker and and smaller smaller rounds rounds than than Brie Brie de de Meaux. Meaux. ItIl isis aa special special cheese cheese with with aa much much more more pronounced saltier and pronounced aroma, aroma, being beingsaltier and more more piquant. piquant. ItIt isis good good all ail the the year year round. round. Brie de Meaux Briede deMontereau. Monlereau. Made Madeininthe thesame samewav wayas asBrie Briede Meaux but but isisaa smaller smallerand and deeper deepercheese. cheese. Brillat-Savarin made in in Normandy Normandy which which can can Brillat-Savarin -- Cheese Cheese made be he eaten eaten all aIl the the year year round. round. Brinzen Brinzen -- Hungarian Hungarian cheese cheese made made from from fresh fresh ewes' ewes' milk, milk, mixed dried for for l0 10 to to 12 12 days, days, kneaded kneaded mixed with with rennet. rennel. ItIt isis dried with with 33per per cent cent salt, salt, then then put put into iuto drums drums and and pressed. pressed. Broccio Corsican cheese, cheese, made made from from goats' goats' milk miJk or or Broccio -- Corsican sour sour ewes' ewes' milk, milk, very very delicate, delicate, and and similar similar in in appearance appearance totoPetit-suisse. Petit-suisse.AAlarge largeproportion proportionofofthis thischeese cheeseisisexported. exported. ItIl isis eaten ealen plain, plain, inin fritters fritters or orinin ravioli ravioli and and isis inin season season between Mayand and November. November.ItItisisalso alsoused used asasaastuffing stuffingfor for between May vegetables. cakecalled ca liedFiaderu Fiadeneisis made madewith withit.il. vegetables.AAspecial specialcake Caccio-cavallo ltaltan cheese cheese made made in in the the region region of of Caccio-cavallo -- Italian Naples Naples from from skimmed skimmed cows' cows' milk, milk, moulded moulded inin the the shape shape ofofgourds gourdsand andleft leftto10dry drystraddled straddledon onsticks. sticks.Some SorneCaccioCacciocavallo cavallo addicts addicts are are not uot satisfied satisfied with with merely merely having having the the cheese dried,but butinsist insiston onits iL~being beingsmoke-cured smoke-curedasaswell, weIl,asas cheesedried, was doneininthe thetime timeofofthe theRomans. Romans. wasdone

CHEESE CHEESE Camembert Camembert -- A A soft soft cheese, cheese, invented, invented, or or rather rather perfected, perfected, in in about about the the year year 1790 1790 by by aa local local farmer's farrner's wife, wife, Mme Mme Harel, Harel, in grateful grateful memory, memory, aa statue statue has has been been erected. erected. to whom, whom, in to Good Good quality quality Camembert Camembert isis made made from from whole whole unskimmed unskimmed milk. The cheese chee se isis made made mainly mainly in in the the winter winter by by aa process process milk. The manufacture of ofBrie, Brie, but but the the micromicrosimilar to to that that used used in in the the manufacture similar and give give to to the the cheese cheese aa slight slight characcharacorganisms are are different different and organisms teristic bitterness bitterness which which the the makers makers attribute attribute to to the the oatoatteristic straw of of the the wicker wicker trays. trays. straw Camembert, which which is is chiefly chiefly made made in in the the regions regions of of Camembert, Vimoutiers and and Livarot, Livarot, is is disc-shaped, disc-shaped, thicker thicker and and much mucb Vimoutiers must be be pale pale yellow, yellow, smooth, smooth, smaller than than Brie. Brie. The The cheese cheese must smaller without holes, holes, and and firm. firm. without made today today all aH over over France France and and even even in in other other counItIt isis made by law law its its place place of of origin origin must must be be indicated. indicated. The tries, but but by tries, Camembert season season lasts Iasts from November November to to May' May. Camembert

Cheddar cheese

year round. round. all the the year eaten ail cheese eaten English cheese Cheddar -- English Cheddar in two two made in cheese made English cheese milk English Hard, cows' cows' milk Chechire -- Hard, Cheshire year round. round. the year all the eaten ail It can can be be eaten white. It red and and white. colours: col ours : red in is known known in cheese is Cheshire cheese which Cheshire Name by by which Chester -- Name France. France. goats' milk which isis milk which from goats' made from cheese made Bresse cheese Chewet -- Bresse Chevret to April. APril. December to from December in season season from in of dried dried It isis made made of produced in in Savoy. Savoy. It Cheese produced Chewotin-- Cheese Chevrotin The December. The to December. March to from March is in in season season from and is goats'milk goats' milk and Bourin Bourmade in little cheeses cheeses made are little Moulins are de Moulins Chevrotins de Chevrotins bonnais. Mdconnais, called Mâconnais, also called Cheese, also Micon -- Cheese, de Mâcon Chewotton de Chevrotton to September. September. May to from May in season season from that isis in that Foix de Foix in tbe Comt6 de the Comté made in Cheese made de Luchon Luchon -- Cheese Cierp de Cierp May. to May. November to from November in season season from which isis in which year round. round. all tbe the year eaten alI can be be eaten which can cheese which Jura cheese Comt6Comté - Jura cream soft cream of soft category of into the the category This cornes comes into Coulommiers -- This Coulommiers neighbourhood in the the neighbourhood district in Brie district in the the Brie made in It isis made cheeses. It cheeses. (Seine-et-Marne), and its best best between between at its and isis at of Coulommiers Coulommiers (Seine-et-Marne), of and May. May. November and November after salting. salting. fresh, after eaten fresh, usually eaten are usually cheeses are Coulommiers cheeses Coulommiers kept to say, say, kept that isis to Brie, that processed like like Brie, also be be processed may also They may They white mould. mould. with white are covered covered with they are until they until with aa crust with white crust have aa white must have good Coulommiers A good Coulommiers must A and slightly slightly touch, and to the the touch, creamy to greyish tinge, be creamy tinge, be slight greyisb sligbt yellowish inside. inside. yellowish are several several There are m CRÈME cntw -- There FRoMAcE ÀA LA cheese. FROMAGE Cream cheese. Cream to the the cream to add sorne somecream to add One isis to cheese. One making this this cheese. ways of of making ways make itit to make another isis to rennet,another the rennet, introducing the milk before before introducing milk draining after draining cream after fresh cream with fresh worked witb milk worked from skimmed skimmed milk from drainage. the drainage. complete the tocomplete put into into mou moulds and put Ids to and inseason cheese in season creamcheese soft cream Alsatiansoft des Vosges Vosges-- Alsatian Crdme des Crème and April. April. November and betweenNovember between cheese goats' milk milk cbeese Semi-hard goats' de Chavignol Chavignol-- Semi-hard Crottin de Crottin December. May toto December. from May seasonfrom which isisininseason Berry, which madeininBerry, made below. cheese below. Nantais cheese SeeNantais Cur6-- See Curé good France,good northem France, made inin northem Cheese made Dauphin -- Cheese Dauphin MaY. andMay. November and betweenNovember between year allthe theyear eatena1l which can can be beeaten cheesewhich Nivernais cheese Decizn -- Nivernais Decize Brie. resembles Brie. round.ItIt resembles round. somewhat cheese somewhat softcbeese whole-milk soft Smallwhole-milk Demi-sel - - Small Demi-sel drained, beingdrained, afterbeing Thecurd, curd,after double-cream. The similar totodouble-cream. similar

cheese Monument of Camembert Camembert cheese Harel. the the creator creator of Monument to Mme Haret, to Mme

in mixture made made in Cancoillotte cheese mixture Very strong strong cheese Cancoillotte -- Very serving' ItIt Franche-Comté, melted before before serving. has to to be be melted which has Franche-Comt6, which isis in June. to June. from September September to in season season from can be be in Auvergne. Auvergne. ItIt can made in CantaJ cheese made strong cheese Hard, strong Cantal -- Hard, good from from particularly good year round eaten round but but isis particularly whole year eaten the the whole November May. November to to May. in season season cheese, in Carré Normandy cheese, de Bonneville Bonneville -- Normandy Carr6 de between June. and June. September and between September April toto from April Chabichou in season season from cheese, in Chabichar -- Poitou Poitou cheese, and sweet. sweet. and isissoft soft and It isis made milk and December. goats'milk from goats' made from December.It its season has its season se made which bas Chaingy Orl6ans which made inin Orléans Cheese Chaingr -- Chee from to June. June. from September September to whichisis Champenois Riceys-Cendr6 which called Riceys-Cendré still called Cheesestill Champenois -- Cheese ininseason and June. June. September and season between between September district, Chaource the Champagne Champagnedistrict, made inin the This cheese, cheese, made Chaource -- This from season from isissomewhat Soumaintrain. ItIt isisininseason similar totoSoumaintrain. somewhat similar November November to to May. May. which Chaumont - Cheese regionwhich Champagne region made inin tbe theChampagne CharmtontCheese made isisininseason November to toMay. May. from November season from

2ll 211

CHEESE CHEESE sieved and put in moulds, has I to l* per cent salt added sieved and put in moulds, has 1 to 1t per cent salt added to it. to il. Doublc-cream. nowrB-cntta - French soft cream cheese Double.-cream. DOUBLE-CRÈME - French soft cream cheese whichthe themilk milk isisenriched enriched with with added addedcream, cream,mc:re~ISHH! increasing ininwhÎch the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet is mixed the weight by one-sixth. A small quantity of rennet is with itit so so that that the the slow slow process of ofcoagulation coagulation lasls lasts about about with 24 hours. The curd, wrapped in a cloth, is put under weights 24 hours. The curd, in a cloth, is under weights to drain. drain. Next, Next, cream cream is worked workd ioto into it. The The curds curds are are ta moulded and wrapped in waxed paper. moulded and wrapped in waxed paper. Dmlop -- Scottish Scottish cheese cheese somewhat somewhat similar similar to to Cheshire Cheshire Dunlop and Double Gloucester, but which, in the opinion of English and Double Gloucester, but which, in the opinion of English gastronomes, much superior to to both. both. Sir Walter Scott Sir Walter Scott gastronomes, isis much was enthusiastic about this cheese. was enthusiastic about Dutch cheeses cheeses - There are a great many of these. The Dutch - There are a great many of these. The best-known, Edam, Edarn, Îsis made made in in aa number number of of European European countries and in in America. America. Partly Partly skimmed skimmed milk, milk, curdled curdled in in counlries 15 to 20 minutes, is mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very 15 to 20 minutes, is mixed with rennet. Fermentation is very slow, and and allowed allowed to to continue continue until until aa hard, hard, non-porous non-porous slow, rind isis formed. formed. As As soon soon as as the cheese is the cheese is fully fully fermented, fermented, the the rÎnd cheese is painted over with a coating of linseed oil. Somecheese is painted over with a coating of linseed oil. Sometimes itit isis gfven aa furtner further coating paraffin, before coating of of paraffin, before being being times (dye). coloured with annatto annatto (dye). coloured cheese is yellow-red when stove-dried, softish and Edam cheese Edam is yellow-red when stove-dried, softish and free from holes. free from holes. Emmenthal -- Swiss Swiss hard hard cheese cheese named named after after the the high Emmenthal Emme valley (in the Berne Canton), but made in Switzerland Emme valley (in the Berne Canton), bul made in wherever there there is is highland highland pasture. pasture. As As the the transport transport of of wherever butter from from these these mountain districts would be uneconomic, butter mountain dislricts would he uneconomic, Emmenthal cheese cheese is usually made from whole milk. HowEmmenthal is made from whole milk, However, in in sorne some parts aa semi-fat Emmenthal Emmenthal is is made, made. The cheese is manufactured in the same way as Gruydre. cheese manufactured in the same way as Gruyère. The round round Emmenthal Emmenthal cneeses cheeses are are larger larger than Gruydres, The tban Gruyères, weighing from 60 to 100 ke. (132 to 2201b.). Their rind is is " ,... onn.!> from 60 ta 100 kg. (132 ta 220 lb,). Their rÎnd straw straw coloured. .... VIVU' ...... The cheese cheese is creamier than Gruydren less pungent and The is crcamicr Ihan Gruyère, less pungent and usually less salty. It has a good many holes called .eyes,, usually Jess salty. Il has a many holes called 'eyes', usually three to every bore-hole made. usually three to every made. There is also a French Emmenthal cheese. There Îs a1so a French Emmenthal cheese. Epoisces - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French Epoisses - Whole-milk, mould inoculated, soft French cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in central cheese made in almost every part of Burgundy and in cenlral France. Its name comes from a village on the C6te d,Or. France. Ils name cornes from a village on the Côte d'Or. The The milk m!lk is is curdled curdled with with a a special rennet, renne!, flavoured ftavoured with with pepper, clove, fennel, salt, and brandy. It is eaten bhck and brandy. Tt is eaten black clove, fennel, either fresh or ripened. eithcr or ripened. The cheese is left in cellars to ripen for a longer or shorter The cheese is left in cellars 10 for a longer or shorter time according to whether it is to be eaten passC (over-ripe) time according to whether it îs to eaten passe (over-ripe) (runny). ot coulant or coulant (runny). The The fresh fresh cheese cheese is Îs eaten eaten in in summer; summer; the the ripe ripe cheese cheese in in (November winter winter or or spring (November to to June). Ero6 Cheese made in the Aridge district, in Erœ -made in the district, in season season between November and and May. May. between November Ervy-Cheese Ervy - Cheese from from Champagne Champagne whichis whîch is at at its ilS best best between between Nolember and May. N ovem ber and Ehrvd Semi-hard Dutch cheese which good is to Écuvé -Dutch cheese which is good to eat cat all aU the year round. the round. Normandy cheese, eaten all Exoelsior Ifv,t'"~h~iN' -- Normandy cheese, eaten ail the the year year round. round. Feullle de de Dreur Dreux -- Cheese Chcese made made in in the the lle-de-France. lle-de-France. It Tt is good to eat between November and May. is 10 eal betwecn November and Fin de si0cle - Normandy cheese which is good to eat all de siècle - Normandy cheese whicb good 10 eal ail the year round. the year round. Fleu Fleur de de Decauville Decauville-- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Ile-de-France. ]Ie-de-France. ItIl is good to eat between December and May. IS to eat bctwecn December and May. Fontire -- Cheese Chcese made made in in Franche-Comt6 Franche- Comté all ail the the year year round. round. Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the cheeses Fourme - Cheese from the Limagne. There are the checses of of Ambert, of of Montbrisson, Montbrisson, of of Salers, Salers, etc., etc., known known as as Fourme d'Ambert, Fourme Fourme de de Montbrisson, Alonlbrisson, Fourme Fourme de de Salers. The latter is sometimes sold under the name of latter is sometimes sold under the name of

Cantal. These These cheeses cheeses are generally alatlheir aregenerally theirbest fromNovembestfrom NovemCan/al. ber totoMay. May. ber Foutina - Italian Italian soft, soft, creamy creamycheese cheese used used inin making making Foutina fondues inin the the Val Val d'Aosta, d'Aosta. fondues Friesche Kaas Kaas - Soft Soft Outch Dutch cheese cheese inin seaSOn seasonbetween between Friescbe November and and May, May. November Frinot -- Cheese Cheese made made inin the the region of of Orléans, Orl6ans, which which isis Frinot in season season helween between November November and June. in Fromage li lala pie (fresh Wlfennented pie (fresh unfernrentedcheese) cheese) - Usually Usually Fromage from skimmed made from skimmed milk milk on on farros farms and and isis for for immediate immediate made consumption. ItIt can can also also he be made made inin the the home home from from whole whole "'VI""~""If'L""'''. milk. The milk milk isis left left to (12. ta to stand stand in in aa cool cool place (12° to 15°C., 15.C., milk. c 53' 10 to 59 59'F.). Curdling takes place al takes place at the end end of of 24 24 to to 36 36 53° F.). Curdling hours, through the the action action of of the the lactic lactic ferment. ferment. IiIt can can also also hours, made with renne!. be made rennet. he pie isis eaten Fromage àd la la pie eaten fresh, fresh, with with fresh fresh crcam cream added. added. may be seasoncd seasoned wîth with sugar, sugar, or pepper according or salt salt and and pepper according 11It may to taste, taste, and and aa !iule little chopped chopped chives chives for for added added flavour. flavour. to Gammel6st -- Norwegian Norwegian all-the-year-round cheese. cheese. Gammelôst G6r0m6 -- Cheese Cheese made made in in the the Vosges. Its name is a corGérômé ruption of of Gérardmer. G6rardmer. ruptîon It isis made made from from wbole whole milk milk and and rennet, rennet, and and isis ripened ripened in Il in cellars for for 44 months, months, until until the the crust crust has has taken taken on on a tawny cellars tawnv colour. Sometimes Sometimes aniseed, aniseed, fenne! fennel or or caraway caraway seeds seeds are arl colour. added. Gérômé Ger6m6 is is aa winter winter cheese, cheese, eaten eaten between between Novemadded. and April. ber and April. ber petitGervais - Well-known Well-known make make of (See Petitof Petit-suisse. Petit-suisse. (See Gervais sadsse.) suisse.) Gex - French French blue-veined cheese cheese manufactured al at Gex, Gex principal town town of of the the Ain Ain département, dipartement, between November and May, from from unskimmed whole milk, milk, coaguJated coagulated in in 2 and unskimmed whole (77" 1081 hours al at 25° 25' to 27'C. (77° to 8l'F.). hours to 27°C. OF.). Before it offered for sale, il it is stored for 2 weeks weeks in Before it is is offcred for sale, is stored for 2 ripening special qualities develop. ripening cellars cellars where whcre its ilS special develop. The 'blue'which the penicillum selfThe 'blue' which is due due to to the penicillum glaucum, glaucum, is is sclfduring processing ... ''''''' ..... ''!S and and appears during processing without without the aid egenerating of any foreign foreign body. The chief chief characteristic characteristic of of Gex cheese, which which distinguishes itit from from all ail others, others, is is that that (except (except for for the blue streaks) streaks) it reremains mains ptrre pure white. white. It Il takes takes from from 2 2 to to 4 4 months months to to ripen completely. Gjetiict - Brown-coloured Brown·coloured Norwegian Norwcgian cheese cheese which wruch can be be eaten eaten all ail the the year year round. round. It It is is made of goats' goats' milk. milk. Glouctster Gloucester -- There There are are two two English cheeJes checse.s of of this this name: na me : the famous Double Double Gloucester Gloucester aia Single Gloucester. Gloucester. the famous Double Double Gloucester. GlouceSler. The The shape shape and size of a large large grindgrind· stone, stone, itit is is crumbly crumbly in in texture texture and and has has aa strong strong but but mellow mellow and and delicate delicate flavour. flavour. It It ripens ripens slowly slowly (this (this process process takes takes about about 66 months) months) and and keeps well. weil. Single Single Gloucester. Gloucesler. Made during during spring and and summer, summer, ripens ripens in in about about 22 months. months. It 1t is Îs flat fiat and round, round, similar simîlar to \0 Double Double Gloucester Gloucester in in shape, shape, and and has has aa soft soft and and open open texture. texture. ItTt isîs excellent excellent for for toasting. toasting. Ghx Glux -- Nivernais Nivernais cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten ealen all a11 the the vear year round. round. Goab'milk Goats' milk cheescs. cheeses. FRoMAcE FROMAGE or DE cntvns CHÈVRE -- A A wide wide varietv variety of ofgoats' goats' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are manufactured manufactured throughout Ihrougnollt France. France. Occasionally a little Occasionallya liUle cows' cows' milk milk isis added added due due to to the the growing scarcity scarcity of ofgoats'milk. goals' milk. Goats'milk Goals: m.ilk cheese cheese isis usually usuallystrongly salted salted to ta make make itil more more closely c1ose1y resemble rescmblc cows' cows' milk milk cheese cheese (and (and to 10 preserve it). it). In ]n fact, fact, many many goats' goalS' milk milk cheeses cheeses are are far far too too salty. Although this usually eaten eaten fresh fresh itit can can be be preprethis cheese cheese isis usually served scrved inin various variousways ways and and eaten eaten when whcn very very mature. mature. (In (In the the Arddche Ardècheitit isiswrapped wrapped ininwalnut walnutleaves Jeaves or orplaced placed in in eartheneartbenware warepots.) pots,) Among the milk cheeses cheeses are are the the the best best known known of ofthe the goats' milk Banon of Provence I->rr",,'''n,..,., the theCabicou Cabécouof Quercy , the theChabichou Chabichouof of

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212

CHEESE

CHEESE

Poitou, the theChavignol ChavlgnolofofBerry Berry('crottins'), ('crot lins'),lalaMothe'Saint' Mothe-SaintPoitou, Hiraye, the Levroux, Levroux, small small Mdcons Mâcons of of Burgundy, Burgundy, -the the Héraye, the Corsican Niolo, Niolo, the the Rigottes Rigollesof ofCondrieu, Condrieu, the theRocamadour Rocamadour Corsican and Saint-Marcellin Saint-MarcellinofofDauphinl, Dauphiné, the the Valengay, Valençay, the theSainteSainteand

Maure. Maure. GorgonzolllSemi-hardcheese cheesewhich whichtakes takesits itsname namefrom from Gorgonzola - Semi-hard little village near near Milan. Milan. ItIt isis made made by by aa rather rather complex complex aa [ttlJvillage process. process. Good Good Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, which which isis aa spring springand and summer summer cheese, has has aa thin thin rind. rind. The The cheese cheese should should be be streaked streaked with with iheese. blue, but but not not excessively, exeessively, and and should should be be yellowish yellowish white white inin blue, colour. colour. Gouda-- Dutch Duteh cheese cheesemade madefrom fromwhole wholemilk, milk, very verysimilar similar Gouda to Cantal Cantal but but there thereisisno no preliminary preliminary fermentation. fermentation. to Gournay Gournay - French French whole-milk, whoJe-rnilk, soft soft cheese cheese made made at at Gournay, Gournay, in in Normandy, Nonuandy, and and in in neighbouring neighbouring districts. districts. At At its best best between between September September and and June. June. its Gruy0re Gruyère -- The The Gruydre Gruyère valley valley isis situated situated in in the the Fribourg Fribourg Canton, dominated dominatcd by by the the Mol6son. Moléson. ItIt has has given given its its name name to to Canton, aa cheese eheese which which is is also also made made in in the the Cantons Cantons of of Vaud Vaud and and Neuchâtel. True True Gruydre Gruyère is is only only made made in in French French SwitzerSwitzerNeuchAtel. land. land. Formerly, Formerly, only only semi-fat semi-fat cheeses cheescs or or cheeses eheeses made made from from skimmcd milk milk were were manufactured, manufactured, the the cream cream being being used used for for skimmed butter, butter. which whieh could be be economically economieally exported. exported. Nowadays Nowadays whole whole milk milk Gruydres Gruyères are are also also made, made, especially especially for for export' export. This This cheese cheese is often often confused confused with with Emmenthal. Emmenthal. Sometimes Sometimes cheesemongers advertise 'a 'a genuine genuine Gruydre Gruyère from from EmmenEmmencheesemongers thal' which whieh is like saying saying 'genuine 'genuine Brie Brie from from Camembert'! Camembert' 1 It It thal' l0 to is made made in rounds of of 50 to ta 60 kg. (l (110 ta 1301b.). 130 lb.). The The rind rind is is golden golden brown. brown. The The cheese isis waxy, waxy, more more or or less less dry dry according according wJtigh ta ug.. age. It is is scored with with cracks underneath through through which i=o demands of To satisfy the out. To ooze out. of serum serum ooze drops the demands of the the drof,s of 'eyes' in which expects 'eyes' in the the cheese, cheese, it it is is proproFrench market which These appear. These such cessed in su ch a way for export that little liule holes hales appear. The export export Emmenthal. The in Emmenthal. always smaller than the holes are always hales in conlocal confor local made for those made than those salty than less salry also Jess are also cheeses cheeses are excellent this excellent of this flavour of pungent flavour the pungent To enhance the sumption. sumption. To pieces in in aa preserve the the pieces to preserve in Switzerland Switzerland to usual in it isis usual cheese, cheese, it wine. white wine. or white water or in salted salted water cloth cloth soakcd soaked in mounin the the mounfactories in in cheese cheese factories manufactured in is manufactured GruyEre is Gruyère long time time very long for aa very It keeps keeps for pastures' It the pastures. ilose ta to the tains, tains, close others cheese, others ripe cheese, very ripe demand aa very connoisseurs demand Some connaisseurs uncut. uncut. Sorne two the two (q.v.) aa mixture mixture of of the For/ondue fresh. For fairly fresh. prefer itit fairly prefer fondue (q.v.) required. normally required. kinds kinds isis normally of triangles of little triangles years now, now, little For sorne some years di. For Gruyire, Crème Crlme de. Gruyère, paper. in silver silver paper. wrapped in sold, wrapped been sold, have been proceised cheese cheese have processed from even from and sometimes sometimes even Comt6 and from Comté made from is made This This cheese cheese is Gruyère. Gruydre. means of of as aa means produced mainly mainly as was produced cheese was first, this this cheese Ai first, At in much in gained so so much has gained but ilit has cheeses, but defective cheeses, up defective using up using made cheese made from cheese manufactured from now manufactured poputarity that that itit isis now popularity great number number of of are now now aagreat purpose.There Thereare for the the purpose. especially ispeciallyfor (called creams) made ffrom creams) made cheeses (called packaged cheeses processed and and packaged processed rom cheeses. ofbasic variety of aavariery basic cheeses. the to the appeal to always appeal not always does not flavour does indeterminate flavour Theii indeterminate Their are They are explained. They easilyexplained. success isiseasily their success but their connoisseur, but connoisseur, form, and hygienic hygienic form, convenient and packaged ininaaconvenient andpackaged processed and proeessed nowaste. waste. leaving no andleaving norind rindand havingno having are cheesesare Gruydre-type cheeses ofGruyère-type numberof deComlé. Comti.AAnumber Gruyère Gruyire de For America. For andininAmerica. Europeand allover overEurope countriesail madetoday todayinincountries made the manufactured ininthe hasbeen beenmanufactured Gruydrehas ofGruyère typeof longtime timea atype aalong now themselvesnow manufacturers themselves deComté Comt6manufacturers Gruydrede butGruyère Jura,but Jura, replaced bereplaced Comt6be GruyLtededeComté appellationGruyère insistthat thatthe theappel/a/ion insist Comt6. byComté. sim ply by simply season whichisisininseason Picardy,which fromPicardy, Cheesefrom Guerbigny- Cheese Guerbigny MaY. andMay. Octoberand between betweenOctober dlpartement cityofofthe thedépartement Gu6ret,a acity madeininGuéret, Cheesemade Gu6ret- -Cheese Guéret best andisisatatilsitsbest Creusois,and calledCreusois, sometimescalled Creuse.ItItisissometimes ofofCreuse.

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between hetweenSeptember Septemberand andJune. June. cheese. Made in Belgium, from Herv6 Hervé - Soft, Soft,fermented fermented cheese. Made in Bel gi l.lm, l'rom is curdled with rennet, and drained under great it cows'milk, cows' milk, it is curdled with rennet, and drained un der great pressure pressureininsquare squaremoulds. moulds. cellars where the cheeses are Ripening Ripeningtikes takesplace placeinindark dark cellars where the cheeses are one against the other, covered with placed sides, on their placed on their sidcs, one against the other, covered with cloths steepedininbeer. beer. c10thssteeped a mild variety of Herv6 cheese. Best There Thereisisaastrong strongand and a mild variery of Hervé cheese. Best and MaY. November eaten between eaten between November and May. made at Huppemeau in the Loire-et' HuppemeanHuppemeau- Cheese Chccse made at Huppemeau in the Loire-etto Brie. Cher Cher region. region. ItIt isis somewhat somewhat similar similar ta Brie. Normandy cheese which is in season from Incheville

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Incbeville - Normandy cheese which is in season from November Novemberto ta May. May. from ewes' or goats' milk. Half the Jonchee - Cheese Jonchée·Cheesemade made from ewes' or goats' rnilk. Half the leaves. This is mixed with the with milk is boiled milk is boilcd with aa few few bay bay leaves. This is mixed with the milk. It is curdled with rennet and remainder remainder of of the the raw raw milk. It is curdled with rennet and pots. decanted decanted into into little little pots. cheese which can be eaten all the Kaunas Kaunas - Lithuanian Lithuanian cheese whieh can he eaten ail the year year round. round. with caraway seeds, which can be Kummel - Dutch KummelDutch cheese cheese with caraway seeds, which can be year round. It is also called Leidsche Kaas. all the eaten eaten ail the year round. Il is also called Leid,che Kaas. This cheese from Burgundy is good (Les) (Les) Laumes Laumes - This cheesc from Burgundy is good between between October Oetober and and JulY. July. cheese made in and around Berry, in Lewoux Levroux - Goats' Goats' cheese made in and around Berry, in December. season season between between MaY May and and December. is made in the same way as Edam. kyden - Leyden LeydenLeyden cheese cheese is made in the same way as Edam. cumin, cloves or cinnamon. Some ItIl is is often often flavoured flavoured with with cumin, cloyes or cinna mon. Sorne prefer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it connoisseurs connaisseurs pre fer Dutch cheese stove-dried. This makes it its flavour. Leyden is also known as but creamy less improves its flavour. Leyden is also known as less creamy but improves Kummel. and Kaas Leidsche Leidsche Kaas and Kummel. fermented cheese made in Limbourger Limoourger - Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented cheese made in The whole-milk curds are Belgium, and Germany. Germany. The whole-milk curds are Belgium, Alsace Alsace and parsley and tarragon, put in moulds chives, with kneided kneaded witb chives, parsley and tarragon, put in mou Ids The surface surface is made non-porous by sun. The and dried and dried in in the the sun. is made non-porous by and brushing. salting salting and brushing. has given Calvados in the A town small Livirot -- A small town in the Calvados region Livarot region has given paste cheese (usually coloured annatto a soft name to its its name ta a soft paste cheese (usually coloured annatto red). This is an autumn and winter cheese. or deep deep red). brown or brown This is an autumn and winler cheese. cheese which is in season between Picardy cheese Manicamp - Picardy Manicamp which is in season between and July. October and July. October cheese which is full-flavoured Semi-hard, full-flavoured cheese Mrroilles - Serni-hard, Maroilles which is takes its name from a village in the and which in shape square square in shape and which takes its name from a village in the in Thi6rache and all over manufactured in district. ItIt isis manufaetured Avesnes district. Avesnes Thiérache and al! over Picardy. Picardy. quickly dried and stored are salted, curds are salted, quickly dried The whole-milk whole-milk curds The and stored intervals, the cheese is turned at frequent where, a cellar in in a cellar where, at frequent intervals, Ihe cheese is tumed beer' It is at ir best between with beer. and washed washed with brushed, and over, brushed, over, II is at ilS best between also called Marolles or Marole. and June. June. ItIt isis also November and November called Marolles or Marole. which is in mountains Jura from the Cheese from the Jura mountains which Metton - Cheese Metton is in to June. October from season season from Oetober 10 June. made in Normandy, good between Cheese made Monsieu - Cheese MonsieW' in Normandy, good between and June. June. November and Novembcr semi-hard, blue-veined, round, large, A Mont Ceni~ Cenis - A large, round, serni-hard, Mont blue-veined, somewhere between a Roquefort and a cheese whole-milk whole-milk cheese somewhere between a Roquefort and a cellars where it acquires its characripensinincellars Gorgonzola. IlIt ripens Gorgonzola. where it acquires its characbluestreaks. streaks. teristic blue teristic had agreat reputation' whichonce cheese, Montd'Or-This Mont d'Or- This cheese, which once had a grea t reputa tion, along the banks of the Sa6ne, round Lyons. made be used to uscd ta be made along the banks of the Saône, round Lyons. goats was used. The cheese was milkofofstable-fed stable-fedgoats Onlythe themilk Only was used. The cheese was weeks. for55tato66weeks. cellars for ripenedinincellars ripened name is made all over itsname now bears which Thecheese cheesewhich now bears its The is made ail over cows' milk and bears very from is manufactured France, France, is manufactured from cows' milk and bears very the original cheese' The best is made at resemblance totothe littlerescmblance original cheese. The best is made at little Itsseason season lasts from December to April. Montd'Or. d'Or.Ils Mont lasts from December to April. goats' milk cheese from Francheveined Lightly MorbierMorbier - Lightly veined goats' milk cheese from Francheand June. October between Good Comt6. Comté. Good between October and June. cheese in season between Poitou (La) Mothe-Bougon (La) Mothe-Bougon - Poitou chcese in season between December. Mayand andDecember. May

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CHEESE CHEESE poitou (La) Molhe-Sainl-Héraye Mothe-Saint-Hdraye -- Goals' Goats' cheese cheese from from Poitou (La) which isis inin season season between between May May and and November. November. Also Also ealled called whieh Lamothe-Bougon. Lama/he-Bougon, Munster -- Semi-hard, Semi-hard, fermented, fermented, whole-milk whole-milk cheese, cheese, Mnnster usually tlavoured flavoured with with caraway caraway or or aniseed, aniseed. Made Made in in Alsace, Alsace, usually (Upper Rhine), in the the Munster Munster valley valley (Upper Rhine), itit isis much much prized prized by by in lovers of of cheese cheese and good belween and isis good between November November and and ApriL April. lovers Murol -- Cows' Cows' milk milk cheese cheese from from Auvergne Auvergne shaped like aa shaped like MIIrol small wheel wheel with with aa hole hole in in the centre. Good the centre, Good between between October October small and June, June. and Mysiist -- Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten ail all the the Mysiisi year round, round. year Nantais -- This This Breton Breton cheese, cheese, somelimes sometimes ealled called Fromage Fromage Nantais &t curé, good 10 curi, isis good year round, to eat eat ail all the the year round. du Neufchf,tel or or Bondon Bondon -- Small Small French, French, loaf-shaped loaf-shaped cheese cheese Neufchâtel made from from skimmed skimmed milk, milk, whole whole milk milk or or wilh with added added crea cream. made m, ripened on on straw straw bundles bundles in in aa drying drying room room until until aa skin, skin, ltIt isis ripened white at at first and laler first and (first skin), later bluish, bluish, forms forms on on the the surface surface (firsl skin). white The ripeningis ripening is then then completed completed in in cool, cool, well-aired well-aired store store rooms rooms The until aa second second skin forms, this skin forms, this lime time red red in in colour. colour. The The cheese cheese until yellow and rather dark dark yellow and is is at at its its best best between between October October and and isis aa rather June. June, Niolo -- Corsican Corsican cheese, cheese, which which is particularly good is particuJarly good from from Niolo November to to May, May. November Noekkeliist - Norwegian Norwegian cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all all the the Noekkeliislyeard round, round. yeard Olivet -- Whole-milk, Whole-milk, mould-inoculated mould-inoculated cheese, cheese, made made in in Olivet the small town of small lown of Olivet, Olivet, in in the Loiret. Il the Loiret, It isis made made of of ewes' ewes' Ihe milk, in (l inch) in dises discs about about 2!2l cm, cm. (1 (6 inches) inch) thick and 15 thick and l5 cm, cm. (6 inches) milk, in diameter. The The curd curd is white and and rather salty. This cheese cheese in diameteL is white rather salt y, This has its season from from OClober October to to June, June. has ilS season There is is another another type of Olivet Olivet cheese, cheese, called called Olivet Olivet There type of Cendrd, which good 10 to eat from October eat from Fresh Cendré, which is is good October to to June. June, Fresh creamy Olivet Olivet cheese cheese is sold in in the the summer summer months. creamy is sold monlhs, Oloron -- Chcese Cheese from from Béarn B6arn also also called called Fromage de la la Oloron Fromage de Vallde d'Ossau,whichshould eaten from Vallée d'Ossau, which should be be eaten from October October to to May. May, Paladm Savoy, in Paladru -- Cheese Cheese made made in in Savoy, in season season from from NovemNovember ber to to May. May, Parmesan cheese, which Parmesan -- This This famous famous cheese, which keeps keeps for for a a very very long is made made in in Lombardy Lombardy and and in in the the Romagna Romagna under under long time, time, is various various names. names, The The name name 'Parmesan'is 'Parmesan' is used used abroad abroad for for export skimmed milk. export cheeses cheeses of of this this type. type, It It is is made made with with skimmed milk, During During the the ripening ripening process, process, which which is is very very slow, slow, harmful hannful microbes microbes can can cause cause liquid liqllid patches patch es in in the Ihe cheese, cheese, which which are are dealt dealt with with by by Italian Italian cheese-makers. cheese-makers, They They test test the the cheese cheese by by tapping tapping itil with with aa hammer. hammeL When When they they detect detecl aa soft soft patch, palch, they they open open up up the the cheese, cheese, cut cut out out the the diseased diseased section section and and cauterise cauterise the the 'wound'with 'wound' with aa red-hot red-hot iron. iron, The The ripening ripening period period lasts lasts for for nearly nearly 44 years. years, At At the the end end of of this this process process the the cheese cheese may may be be kept or even even longer. longer. kept for for aa very very long long time, lime, 20 20 years years or Parmesan Parmesan is is a a hard ha rd cheese cheese which which can can be be eaten eaten all al! the the year round, It il is is golden golden yellow yellow in in colour colour and and should should sweat sweal year round. very very slightly. slightly, Pav6 Pavé de de Moyarx Moyaux -- Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is is in in season season from from November November to to June. June, Pelardon de Ruoms Goats' cheese made in Pelardon de Ruoms -- Goats' cheese made in Arddche, Ardèche, which in season season from from May May to to November. NovembeL which isis in Petit-suisse Petit-suisse -- Very Very creamy, creamy, unsalted unsalled French French cheese cheese of of the the double-cream double-cream type, type, small small and and cylindrical cylindrical in in shape. shape, It It isis made made from from whole whole milk, milk, with with 20 20 per per cent cent proportion proportion of of fresh fresh cream cream added. added, In ln spite spi te of of its its name, name, itil was was first first made made not not in in Switzerland Gournay in in Normandy Nonnandy (Seine-Inferieure). (Seine-Inférieure), Switzerland but but in in Gournay The The Gervais Gervais Petit-suisse Petit-suisse is is the the best-known best-known make. make, ManuManufacturing factming this Ihis cheese cheese isis aa delicate delicate process, process, to 10 which which the the most most up-to-date up-to-date scientific scientific methods methods of of production production and and supersupervision vision are are applied. applied, Picodon madeinin the the Dauphin6 Dauphinéwhich which Picodonde de Dieulefit Dieulefit-- Cheese Cheese made isis in in season season from from May May to to December. December.

Pithiviers au aufoin foin-- Cheese Cheese made made in Orl6ans region in the the Orléans region and and Pithiviers ripened on on hay, hay. ln In season from October season from October to May. to May, ripened (Puy-de-D0me) -- Made Pontgibaud (Puy-de-Dôme) Made inin the the same way as same way as Pontgibaud Roquefort, but but from from eows' cows'milk. year round, Eaten aH all Ihe the year round, Roquefort, milk, Eaten except in in mid-summeL mid-summer. except PontJ'EvQue -- French French semi-hard, semi-hard, fermented fermented cheese, cheese, POllt-I'Evêqlle made from from whole whole or or skimmed skimmed milk, milk. ltIt isis shaped shaped in in square square made moulds, salted processed like salted and and processed like the Bondon or the Bondon or Neufchâtel. Neufchfltel. moulds, ripened in in cellars, cellars. This This takes takes from from 33 to months, or to 44 months, less or less ItIt isis ripened the cheese cheese is is very very rich rich in in cream, cream. Pont-l'Evêque PontJ'Ev0que can can be eaten ifif the be eaten year round the whoJe whole year round except except in in August August but but isis atat its its besl best the between October October and and June, June. IlIt should have aa wrinkled, should have wrinkled, between greyish-yellow crust crust. The The cheese pale yellow cheese is yellow in is softish and pale softish and in greyish-yellow colour. colom, Port-Salut -- A A superb yellow, whole-milk superb creamy, creamy, yellow, whole-milk eheese, cheese. Pori-Salut was first first made made at Trappist Monastery at the the Trappist Monastery of Port du of Port du Salut, Salut, IlIt was near Laval. Laval. The The name name of of Port-Salut Port-Salut was given 10 was given to itit by by aa near company established (Mayenne département) established at at Entrammes Entrammes (Mayenne dCpartement) company where ilit is is slill still made, made, as as weil well as as in in Trappist Trappist monasteries monasteries ail all where over the world, according the world, according 10 to aa secret good secret formula, formula. IlIt isis good over year. throughout the the yeaL throughout Pouligny.Saint-Pierre -- Famous Famous cheese cheese made made from from May Pouligny-Saint-Pierre to December December in in Berry, Berry. to Puant Macéré Macer6 -- Cheese Cheese from from Flanders, Flanders, in in season season from Puant November till till June, June. November Pultttst -- Norwegian mountain fann farm eheese cheese which can can be PuJliist year round, eaten ail all the year round. eaten Reblochon-- Soft cheese cheese made in Sa It is made of Savoy. of cows' Reblochon voy, Il milk and is is in in season season from Oelober October to June, June. milk Recollet de de Gérardmer G6rardmer -- Cheese Cheese from from the the Vosges, Vosges, in Récollet to April, April. season from from October to Remondur Belgian cheese cheese called called Fromage in Fromage piquant piquant ln Remondou -- Belgian season from season from November November to June. June, Riceys sometimes called called Champenois Riceys cendr6 cendré --'Cheese Chee se sometimes which September to June, June. which is in in season from from September Rigotte creamy goats' CondriellgoalS' cheese of Rigotte de Condrieu - Semi-hard, creamy the Lyon district which is in season from May Lyon district in season May to November. November. Rocamadou This community Rocamadour -- ThIS communily in the Lot, celebrated celebrated for its setting and its places of picturesque setting of pilgrimage, pilgrimage, has given ils picturesque its name to 10 a a very small ewes'milk ewes' milk cheese which is in season season ils name from from November November to May. May, Rollot Rollot - Cheese Cheese in in the form fonn of of a disc resembling Brie and Camembert, and Camembert, although although smaller. smalleL It lt is is also called Bigolot, Bigolol, and comes cornes from from Picardy. Picardy, It It is in season season from from October October to May. May, Romalour Romalour -- Cheese from from the the Loire district dislrict which can be be eaten eaten all aH the Ihe year year round. round, Roquefort Roquefort - The true true Roquefort cheese, cheese, made made in the the little litlle town that name ofthat name in in the the Saint-Affrique Saint-Affrique district (Aveyron), (Aveyron), is is town of manufactured manufactured exclusively exclusively from from ewes' ewes' milk, milk, sheep sheep being being the the only animais which which can subsist subsist on on the the arid pastures pastures of of the the only animals Causses. Causses, Corsica Corsica exports exports aa large large number number of of cheeses cheeses to 10 the the Causses Causses to 10 be'treated'in be 'trealed' in the the caves caves there. there. The this cheese The unique unique feature fea t ure of ofthis cheese isis that that the the curds curds are are mixed mixed with of breadcrumb. breadcrumb, The The bread bread is is dried and and with aa special special type type of then then ground ground to to aa fine fine dust, dust, in in which which aa special special greenish greenish mould mould is is allowed allowed to to develop. develop, To To ensure ensure the the right right conditions conditions for for ripening are stored stored in in damp, damp, cool cool caves caves (4" (4° to to ripening, the the cheeses cheeses are 8oC., g0c', 40o 40° to to 47'F.), 47°F,), such such as as the the natural natural caves caves which which are are to to be be found found in in the Ihe Causses Causses region. region, After After 30 30 or or 40 40 days, days, the the cheese cheese isis ready ready for for sale, sale, but but before before itil takes lakes on on the the pungent pungenl flavour flavour which which makes makes itit so so soughtsoughtafter after by by the the connoisseur, connoisseur, itil must must be be left left to to ripen ripen for for aa much much longer longer period. period, In ln fact, fact, in in the the view view of ofthe the experts, experts, itit should should be be kept kept for for ayear. a yeaL AA good good Roquefort Roquefort has has aa grey grey rind. rind, The Thecheese cheeseisisyellowish, yellowish, very very fatty fatly and and evenly evenly veined veined with with blue. blue, IfIf itit isÎs too too white white in in appearance appearance and and chalky chalky in in texture, lexture, itit isis not not completely complele!y ferfermented. mented,

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CHEESE The Roquefort Roquefort season season lasts lasts from May to September September but The is eaten all ail the the year year round. round. A number number of of different different districts districts itit is in France France produce produce a Roquefort-type cheese but these may in not be be sold sold under under the the name name of of Roquefort. not Rouennais - Normandy Normandy cheese cheese which which is in season from Rouennais October to to May. October Rougeret -- Small goats' cheese made near near Micon. Mâcon. Is also Rougeret under the the name name of of Maconnet. Maconnet. known under known Saint-Agathon - Breton cheese chee se that that is is in in season season from Saint-Agathon October to to July. October in season season from Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Burgundian cheese, chee se, in Saint-Florentin November to July. It is soft and salty. salty. November chiefly at manufactured chiefly chee se, manufactured This cheese, Saint-Marcellin - This principal town town of the the Isdre Isère district, district, was Saint-Marcellin, principal goats' milk. Today, both milk. Today, from goats' formerly made exclusively from as aa subare used used as are added 'or br are cows' milk and ewes' milk are goats' milk. milk. It is in in season between May stitute for for goats' May and It is season between December. May to Saint-Maure -- Touraine cheese, in from May in season season from Saint-Maure November. It is aa soft, creamy, creamy, goats' milk cheese. November. and Saint-Rémi -- Square cheese made in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 and Saint-Rdmi Haute-Savoie. It is soft and resembles Pont-l'Evêque. PontJ'Ev6que. Sassenage made in in the the Sassenage - Semi-hard, blue-veined cheese made Isère; in season season from November to May. Isdre; Septmonceldcpartement which in the the Jura Jura département Septuoncel - Small village in has given its name to aa Roquefort-type comes Roquefort-type cheese which cornes me way from Saint-Claude. as Gex Gex way as made in in the same It isis made the sa from Saint-Claude. It cheese May. Curds and May. cheese and is at its best between between November and from put together, together, without are sometimes milkings are sometimes put from two two milkings mixing, to produce aa cheese 'bastard Septmoncel'. as'bastard cheese known as mixing, Serré in the residue in the The whey, whey, which which isis the the residue Serr6 or Seray Seray - The manufacture tains aa certain certain contains still con of cheese, cheese, sometimes sometimes still manufacture of quantity of casein of casein proportion of butter and and aa considerable considerable quantity and case where where is particularly the the case This is albumen. This and soluble albumen. curdling be (by scalding). The butter butter can can be quickly (by scalding). The curdling takes place quickly extracted from to become first allowed allowed to and if it is first whey, and from this whey, acid, By this this with rennet. rennet. By time with second time acid, it it can can be be curdled aa second means it is the containing the serum containing possible to the serum is possible to precipitate the soluble and lactose and from the the lactose and separate separate it from albumen, and soluble albumen, mineraI and is is used used both both serri and is called called serré This substance substance is mineral salts. salts. This as food. animal food. as human and animal In serri the serré Glaris district, district, the notably in in the the Glaris In sorne regions, notably some regions, (called celery (called ligger wild celery pounded with with herbs, herbs, wild ligger in in German) isis pounded in particular. which into slabs made into slabs which particular. This is dried and made dried and This mixture is are with butter, butter, this this and mixed mixed with Grated and are called called schabzigger. Grated cheese, in high high held in flavour, isis held aromatic flavour, has aa strongly strongly aromatic chegse, which has esteem years, under under the the For sorne some years, connoissuers. For by sorne esteem by some connoissuers. name and with butter, mixed with butter, and has been been mixed Glaris, itit has of Crème CrCme de de Glaris, name of sold paper. wrapped in in silver silver paper. sold wrapped Soumaintrin, Burgundian Saint-Florentin - Burgundian Soumaintrin, aJso also called called Saint-Florentin cheese made prime vintage among aU all those those made vintage among regarded as as the the prime cheese regarded in in Burgundy. valley in Burgundy. in the Armance valley the Armance It our, yellow in (1 lb.), in col colouro g. (1 lb.), isis yellow It weighs weighs approximately 500 g. approximately 500 with yellowish-orange rind, from NovemNovemin season rind, and and isis in season from with aa yellowish-orange ber ber to to July. July. Soya immemorial. ItIt isis from time made in in China China from time immemorial. Soya -- Cheese Cheese made the juices extracted from soya soya in the extracted from of fermentation the juices fermentation in the result result of beans. beans. The put are put by soaking, and swollen swollen by soaking, are The beans, beans, softened softened and through mixed with with aa press. The The liquid liquid thus thus extracted extracted isis rnixed through aa press. little tes into grey into aa grey It coagula coagulates magnesium. It little sulphate sulphate oflime of lime or or magnesium. mass curds. ferment like like curds. mass which which isis left left to to ferment Stilton cream milk with with cream whole milk from whole made from cheese made Stilton -- English English cheese added, The cheese cheese isis ripen. The long time to ripen. very long time to which takes added, which takes aa very marked not be be cut cut but but green streaks. should not grey and streaks. ItIt should with grey and green marked with scooped port should be or port should be little sherry sherry or centre. AA little out of of the the centre. scooped out poured into the cheese. poured onto the cheese. and left left to to soak soak into onto itit and Stracchino goats' cheese. cheese. Italian soft soft goats' Shaccbino -- ltalian

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cheese Stilton cheese Stilton

preparation, exexThis preparation, FoRT -- This FRoMAGE FORT cleese. FROMAGE Strong Strong cheese. well especially weIl and strong-smelling, strong-smelling, isis especially ceedingly savoury savoury and ceedingly and in in Corsica. Corsica. districts and and Lyons Lyons districts in the Morvan and liked in grated or milk cheese, cheese, salt salt or thinly thinly sliced sliced rnilk of grated Successive layers of put in in little cream, cream, are are put and mixed mixed herbs, herbs, and and sometimes sometimes aa !iule and jars, which with white white glazed stoneware which are are filled filled to to the the top top with stoneware jars, glazed and left left They are are hermetically sealed sealed and laced with with brandy. They wine laced weeks to ferment. in aa warm warm place for for 22 or or 33 weeks to ferment. in given in France to Dutch in France to Dutch T0te de de mort mort -- Name sometimes sometimes given Tête year round. round. all the the year Edam cheese. Good Goqd aU Edam cheese. varieties of which which several several varieties Savoy, of Tomme Tomme -- Cheese Cheese of of the the Savoy, are in in Tomme au an fenouil Beauges and and Tomme exist. Tomme de de Beauges ev,rst. Tomme fenouil are Boudave from from Tomme de de Boudave season from September September to to June, Jwe, Tomme season from October October to to July. July. popular variety most popular variety isis of which which the the most Trappistes Trappistes -- Cheeses Cheeses of Trappist made by by the the Trappist Port-Salul, because known known as as Port-Salut, because itit isis made There are are several in the Mayenne. There several monks Port-du-Salut in the Mayenne. monks of of Port-du-Salut Trappiste de de regions of France: Trappiste other in various various regions of France: other types types in (Normandy), (Burgundy), Trappiste Bricquebec (Normandy), Trappiste de de Bricquebec Citeaux Citeaux (Burgundy), (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de Saintede SainteMont-des-Cats (Picardy), Trappiste Trappiste de de Mont-des-Cats (Savoy). (Brittany) and Trappiste de Tamie (Savùy). de Tamie and Trappiste Anne-d'Auray Anne-d'Aur,ay (Brittany) year round. round. all the These These cheeses may be eaten aIl the year cheeses may be eaten

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it

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White garnishedwith withradish, radish, White cheese cheese garnished anchovy andchives chives anchovyand

215 215

CHEESE-RENNET CH EESE- RENNET Tro0-- Touraine Touraine cheese cheese in in season season from from May to January. Troo Troyes-- This This creamy creamy soft soft cheese, cheese, res,errlbJ:mg resembling '-Gl,lll<""U",,' Camembert, Troyes in seasO,n season from from November November to to May. May. ItIt isis also known as isis in

preserved by ",.."'...,,,,.,,,.,., in the drying in by drying the sun sun or preserving or over over heat, heat, or or hy by preserving in sugar sugar or or inin brandy. brandy. Jams, Jams, jellies, and and symps syrups are made are made (see JAMS, from from them them (see JAMS, SYRUPS). They They are are used used for for distildistil(see KIRSCH), ling (see (see KIRSCH), and and liqueurs liqueurs are are made made wÎth with them them (see

Barberey. Barberey. Yacherin Soft Soft cheese cheese made made in in the the Jura, Jura, in in Switzerland Switzerland Vacherinin Franche-Comté. Franche-Comt6. Il and in It isis inin season season from from November November to and to May. May. goats' milk cheese Vdengay -- Soft Soft goats' cheese from from the the Berry Berry district. Valençay district. In season from May to season from December. to December. ln Vend6me-Thereis a softVend6mecheese, madeinOrl6ans, Vendôme cheese, made in Orléans, good from which isis good from October October to to June. There îsis also June. There also aa hard hard which ewes' m.ilk milk cheese cheese ripened ripened under under ashes, ashes, which good in which îsis good in the ewes' the same months, and and is is also also called called Vendôme. Vend6me. same Vestgiitadst - Swedish Swedish cheese cheese which which can can he all Ihe Vestgotaost be caten eaten ail the year round. year Vic-en-Bigorre -- Béarnaise B6arnaise winter winter cheese. Normandy cheese at at ilS its best best between NovemVilledieu -- Normandy ber and and May. May. ber VYhite cbeese. cheese. FROMAGE FRoMAGE BLANC BLANc -- Made Made from f,rom whole whole milk, White treated with rennet, rennet, and and eaten in summer. eaten fresh În summer. treated

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MARASCHINO). Their Their stalks, in infusions, infusions, are popular diuretic. stalks, used used in are aa popular diuretic. Cherries I'allemande I.I. CERISES Cherries Il l'allemande crnrsns ÀA L'ALLEMANDE r'llr,Elrll,Nor - Cold Cold hors-d'œuvre hors-d'ouvre which isis usually usually made made commercially, commercially, but can but itit can he be prepared in in the the following following way: way: just ripe, and Destalk morcllo morello cherries cherries which which are are only put only just and put them them in in aa jar, in in the the same way as gherkins (q.v.). same way as for for gherkins Cover Cover with with aromatic aromatic vinegar prepared prepared in in the the following following (7 oz way: .. 1 cup) brown way: Put Put 200 2N g.g. (7 oz.,l brown sugar, sugar, aa fragment fragment of of stick grated nUlmeg, stick cinnamon, aa little little grated nutmeg, and and 33 c10ves cloves into into 1I pints, generous quart) litre (I~ pints, quart) vinegar. litre vinegar. Boil, Boil, allow allow to to cool cool and he cherries. and pour over over tthe cherries. Leave Leave the the cherries cherries in in this for 15 this for 15 days. ALLEMANDE - Put Cheries èI l'allemande I'allemande U. If. CEruSES cnnrsns À A 1': r'Arrerr{^ANon the - Put the destalked destalked cherries cherries in in aa dish dish and and caver cover wîth with brown brown sugar. sugar. Cook Cook in in aa very very slow slow oven oven until until the the cherries cherries are are slightly slightly jar and softened. softened. When When they have cooled, cooled, put them in aa glass jar and cover cover with with aromatic vinegar, prepared as as above, above, but but using using less brown sugar. Leave for 15 days before use. Wilh With either method, one can can add thyme, thyme, bay and tarragon to to taste. Cherries prepared àd l'allemande, I'allemande, served also under under the served also name of sweef-sour name sweet-sour cherries, cheties, are used used to to accompany boiled meats and cold meats in in the same sarne way as gherkins. Cherries Cheries in in brandy. brandy. CERISES cERIsEs À A L'EAU-DE-VŒ r'n.tu-oE-vn -- Choose we\lwellyet quite ripe. formed formed cherries cherries not not yet Cut stalks in half ripe. Cut stalks in half and and jar. Caver arrange the the cherries cherries in aa glass jar. good brandy Cover with good in which sorne some sugar has been dissolved dissolved ln in the proportion of (8 oz., g. (8 (scant quart, 225 litre (seant 225 g. oz., Il cup) sugar sugar to quart, generous to Il litre quart) brandy. Hermetically seal the jar. To obtain cherries less penetrated with Icss witb alcohol, use the following method method:: Shorten the stalks, stalks, and pierce each cherry cherry with the point of a a needle needle at al the the opposite end end from from the Ihe slalk. stalk. Dip Dip in cold water, drain. tbem in a terrine, covering them with a drain, and put them proportion of syrup made with sugar and water in the proportion of 2 kg. (4+1b.,99 cups) sugar to (scant quart, generous quart) ta 1 I litre (seant water. Cover the teruine terrine and leave the cherries (0 absorb tbe cherries to the syrup for 24 hours. Drain, put them in a glass glass jar and cover caver with the syrup, syrup. which has been boiled down. After cooling, add 22 parts parts brandy for I1 part syrup. Seal the the jar jar hermetically. ner'me:t!c:ally with claret. cla:ret. cERrsEs CERISES AU AU CLARET CLARET - Put 500 g, Cherries with g. Put 5@ (generous (generous I1 lb.) destalked cherries cherries in a a pan. Cover with red Bordeaux Bordeaux wine, wine, add add sugar, sugar, and flavour l'lavaur with a little liule cinnamon. mon. Cook, covered, for l0 Iû to ta 12 minutes on a gentle heat. Leave the cherries to cool in their syrup. Pour off the wine and boil it down by a third. Add 3 tablespoons boillt tablespoons (scant *i cup) l'''',f\~~·h".r'''J jelly, jelly, and and mix well. weB. Pour Pour this (his syrup syrup over the gooseberry cherries. Serve cold with sponge fingers. fingers. This This dish dish is is also aIse called Cherry soup soup dil I'anglaise. l'anglaise. COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with compote. coMporE Cherry compote. in the same way way as as Apricot Apricol compote compote (see (sec stond cherries in COMPOTE). coMPoTE). Cherry Conde. Condé. cERrsEs CERISES coNDE CONDÉ - Prepare Prepare with with stoned stoned Cherry Apricots Condi Condé (see (sec cherries cooked in aa vanilla syrup, like Apricots APRICOT). APRTCOT). Cherry coupecoupe _. See Sec ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. Cherry Cherry crottes. croOtes. cRoOrBs CROùTE5 Ar.x AUX cERrsEs CERISES - Prepare Prepare with Cherry slaned cherries cherries cooked cooked in in syrup, syrup, like like Apricot Apricol crofrte croûte (see (see stoned APRICOT), APRTCOT). Cberry flrn Oan. nlN FLAN DE DE cBRrsEs CERISES - Pastry shell or flan case case Cherry made with with sweetened sweetened pastry, pastry, filled filled with with raw raw stoned stoned cherries, cherries, made and baked baked in in the the oven. oven. Cherry tarts tarIs or flans flans are are also also preand pdred with wi th crCme crème dà ltalsacienne alsacienne or or dil laflamandc la flamande (se TARTS). friUers. BETcNBTS BEIGNETS Aux AUX cERrsEs CERf SES -- Stone Stone the the cherries, cherries, Cherry fritters.

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CHEESE-RENI\IET. CAlLLE-LAlT cATLLE-LAIr CHEESE-RENNET.

given to to various -- Name given plants, tbe the ftowers flowers and and leaves leaves of which have the property property of plants, of (Galium verum) curdling mÎlk. milk. Yellow Yellow bedstraw bedstraw (Galium verum') is curdling is most most commonly used purpose. used for this purpose. commonly

CI{EF DE DE CUISINE -- Director responsible responsible for for aa kitchen CHEF

(see COOKING). team (see COOKING). team The rôle present-day chef de anisine corresponds to r6le of the present-day great houses in the old days, and de bouche bouche in great that of officier fficier de in even even cartier garnisons des earlier times times 10 to that that of maitre des of maître des garnisons ln grand-quanx. cuisines royales or grand-queux.

CHEMISER -- To coal coat aa substance, substance. or aa mould, mould. with aa thin CHEMISER jelly. layer of aspic jelly. CHEMIST'S cHEvRxrrE -- Oblong faience vase, with a CHEMIST'S JAR. CHEVRETTE and handle. In In the the old old days large mouth, projecting spout, and had the right to possess and only chemists chemiS1S (U.S. druggists) had exhibit this kil'ld kind of of vase in the windows of their shops. These exhibit jars red or green jars have been replaced replaced by glass jars jars filled filled with red coloured which chemists chemists stand in their windows, but stand in colaured water wbich these these ornaments are now tending to disappear too. loo. The word chevrette Tbe chevre/le also denotes aa kind of iron tripod tripod on which casseroles and marmites are stood. CHEI\IU applied to a wine mellowed by CHENU - Colloquial term tenn applîed old age.

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CIIDRE CHÈRE - Word Word which used used to ta be be employed mostly in an expression eXr)re~;SI(m La La Fontaine Fontaine used, used, 'faire chire /ie', meaning 'to smile broadly', 'to welcome warmly'. wannly'. The expression expression is now l'lOW restricted to 10 the sense of 'offering a good meal', an an integral integral part pan of of any welcome. welcome. Nowadays Nowadays chire in French French is is a synonym offood. of food, CHERRY. a tree CHERRY. cERrsECERISE- Fruit of afa tree of of the Rosaceae Rosaceae family of which which the the numerous numerous varieties varieties stem stem from from two two primitive

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species. species.

Tbe The wild cheruy or bird cherry, originating I"Irlo,r':1t,no in Persia and Armenia, from from which derive derive the the two IWO sweet sweet cherries,the the heart hean cherry cherry with soft flesh flesh and and coloured coloured juice, and and thewhiteheart the whilehean cherry cherry with with hard hard flesh flesh and colourless colourless juice. There There are are numerous numerous cultivated varieties, varieties, some some earlycarlyfruiting, which which ripen in May; May; others late-fruiting, late-fruiting, which which ripen in August or September. The whiteheart whiteheart cherries are arc usually considered the best dessert dessert f,ruits. fruits. The slightly slightly bitter bitter early English variety of cherry is is also also served served as as a dessert dessert fruit. The very bitter biller morello morello cherries are are used used industrially. îndustrially, French French cherries are are marketed marketed between between May and and July. July. Cherries Cherries are are one one of of the the most mast refreshing fruits. They They can can be be

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CHESTNUTS as they contain contain an appreciable amount of poisonous as they an appreciable amount of hydrocyanic acid. hydrocyanic acid.

soak with liqueur liqueur and sugar, dip in light batter and fry. (See

FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Cherry ice. cllct GLACE AUx AUX cERrsEs CERISES -- Pound Pound I1 litre (lf (li pints, generous generous quart) quart) stoned stoned cherries or or crush crush in in a a mortar mortar or blender. Add the pounded cherry kernels kemels to this pulp. Soak Soak the mixture for I1 hour in I1 litre (lf (J i pints, generous generous quart) quart) l* pints, generous syrup syrup -- 450 450 g. ((1I lb., lb., 22 cups) cups) sugar sugar to I1 litre litre ((Ii generous quart) water - flavoured flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Pass Pass through a a fine sieve and add the juice juice of I1 lemon. This preparation preparation should measure measure 2lo 21° on the syrup gauge. gauge. Freezn CREAMS Freeze the mixture in the usual way (see ICE CREAMS AND rCES). ICES). Cherry Cherry jam. jam. conrnuRE CONFITURE DE cERrsEs CERISES -- Prepared Prepared with 750 g. (l* (li lb., 6 cups) lump sugar sugar for each I1 ke. kg. QI (2t lb.) fruit. If If the fruit is not very sweet the jam jam is made made with an equal weight of of sugar sugar and fruit. (See JAM.) . Cherries CERISES JUBIIJ JUBILÉ -- Simmer stoned cherries chernes Cherries jubilee. jubilee. cERIsEs in syrup. syrup. Drain and and put them into ovenproof dishes. dishes. Boil ~oil down down the the syrup syrup in in which which they they have cooked, cooked, add add a a little httle cornflour or arrowroot diluted with cold water, and and pour over over the the cherries. cherries. Add 1 tablespoon warmed kirsch to each dish and flame it at the moment moment of of serving. serving. Cherry meringue meringue tart or flan with with rice. rice. rI"lN FLAN DE DE cERIsEs CERISES lasnINcu6ls MERINGUÉES AU Rrz RIZ -- Put Put a layer layer of of Dessert Dessert rice rice (see (see RICE) in a gratin gratin dish, dish, and add add a thick thick layer layer ofstoned of stoned cooked cooked cherries. cherries. Sprinkle sugar and top with with meringue. Decorate the top Sprinkle with sugar with arabesques arabesques in meringue meringue and and proceed proceed in in the same same way as for Apricots Apricots with rice rice and and meringue meringue (see (see APRICOT). APRICOT). Cherry mousse mousse -- See ICE CREAMS CREA MS AND AND ICES. Cherry Cherry Cherry surcesauce - See See SAUCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Cherry Cherry sorff6 soufflé fritters fritters -- See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. soufflé Montmorency. Montmorency. sourni SOUFFLÉ Atrx AUX cERrsEs, CERISES, Drr DIT Cherry soufl6 MoNrMoRENcy MONTMORENCY -- Add 400 g. (14 oz,lf oz., li cups) cups) cherry cherry pur6e purée to 500 g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2t cups) sugar boiled in in I1 litre litre (1| (Ii pints, 500 g. generous generous quart) water water to the crack stage. Fold in l0 10 stifly stiffly whisked egg egg whites. Make Make the the soufl6 soufflé in the the usual usual way way (see (see SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ). The The souffi6 soufflé can can also also be be prepared prepared with with cream cream (see SOUFFLÉ, Cremn Craon souffiCs). soufflés). SOUFFLE, soufflé. sourrrJ SOUFFLÉ cuct GLACÉ Atrx AUX cERIsEs CERISES -- Use the Cold cherry souffi6. preparation preparation for for lced Iced cherry cherry mausse(see mousse (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ANI? ICES). ICES). Tie a fold of of white paper round round the top of of aa. souffi6 sou~e distr dish to to reach reach 2l 2-t cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) above it, it, and and fill fil 1 with wlth this thiS mixture. mixture. soufflé has set in the the refrigerator remove the Once the soufr6 paper. paper. . tart or flan. tlan. rl,,l,N FLAN DE DE cERrsEs CERISES A A r,l LA plNotse DANOISE Danish cherry tart Danish Fill aa flaky pastry shell shell or flan flan case with with stoned cherries cherries soaked in sugar sugar and sprinkled sprinkled with a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. soaked Coyer the the cherries cherries with a mixture of 100 g. (4 oz., *-t cup) Cover butter, 100 g. (4 oz., *-t cup) cup) sugar, 100 g. (4 oz., oz., I1 softened butter, cup) ground ground almonds almonds and and 22 eggs. eggs. Bake tart or flan in the oven oyen at a moderate temperatemperaBake the tart Leave to cool, cover coyer with gooseberry gooseberry jelly, jelly, and glaze ture. Leave with rum. with rum. Cherries in vinegar. cERIsBs CERISES AU AU VINNGRE VINAIGRE - Remove the the Chenies from ripe ripe cherries. cherries. Put them in a glass glass jar, jar, alternating altemating stalks from stalks layers of cherries with with powdered sugar, a few few cloves, cloyes, and an? fragments of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Fill the the jar jar with with these these layers. laye.rs. Boil Bot! fragments white lemon rinds, rinds, cool, cool, and and pour pour into mto the the white wine wine vinegar vinegar with with lemon jar. jar. Seal Seal the the jar jar with with aa cork cork covered covered with with linen. linen.

CHER VIL. cERFEUIL CERFEUIL -- Pot-herb with stiff stitf stems and and curly CHERVIL. leaves, cultivated originating in Russia Russia and western western Asia and cultivated leaves, originating

from the beginning of the Christian era. era. It is used chopped for seasoning. seasoning. lVild Wild chervil which is called sweet sweet Cecily has darker, less denticulated, leaves and a more bitter flavour. flavour. Chervil, like denticulated, parsley, parsley, is rich in Vitamin C.

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CIIERVIS CHERVIS -- Plant originating originating in China. The very sweet sweet and aromatic aromatic root was greatly sought after in the old days, but it is no longer much esteemed. CHESTNUTS. csArarcNss CHÂTAIGNES -- Chestnuts grow grow two or three three CIIESTNUTS.

together in a prickly shell. A number of ~f chestnut chestn.ut varieties varieti~s improved by cultivation. The The species specles of ofwhiCh frUIt exist, improved which the fruit contains con tains only only a single single large large nut are called called marrons. marrons. According to an analysis analysis carried out by M. Baland, roast According chestnuts chestnuts (that (that is chestnuts chestnuts cooked dry) dry) retain retain 40 per per cent of their moisture; moi sture; boiled, boiled, they retain 70 per per cent. . their Dried chestnuts only only retain retain 12 12 to to 15 15 per per cent cent of their thelr Dried moisture moisture and contain contain as much nitrogen nitrogen as wheat. Chestnuts have considerable food value. value. l* l-t kg. kg. (3+ (3t lb.) an average supply sufficient calories to satisfy the needs of .an aver~ge person. person. Unfortunately Unfortunately chestnuts chestnuts also also contain conta.In. a high hlgh percentage percentage of starch, starch, which is is difficult difficult to to asslmIiate assimilate and them indigestible indigestible for for many many people. Moreover, the makes them small small quantities quantities of Vitamins Bl BI and and C C they they contain c~nt~in are cooking. On the other hand their thelr richness nchness destroyed during cooking. in mineral minerai salts (particularly calcium calcium and potassium) makes excellent food for growing growing children. children. them an excellent Chestnuts are are preserved preserved by drying, drying, and flour flour is made from Chestnuts which is white white with red red particles here here and them. This flour, which of the outer outer skin) in inferior inferior types, has a sweet sweet there (debris of agreeable smell, and and makes a non-elastic paste flavour, an agreeable when combined with water. It It is used used to to make make various dishes. when Briloli. Bri/oli. A kind of porridge made with chestnut flour to which milk milk or cream cream is added. added. which Castagnacci. Thick fritters, using using chestnut flour. Castagnaccf. Ferinana. This is briloli briloli with oil added. added. Ferinana. Pislicine. Pislicine. Cake Cake prepared prepared with with chestnut chestnut porridge porridge fermented flavoured with aniseed. yeast and flavoured with yeast Polenta. This is obtained obtained by by throwing throwing sieved sieved chestnut chestnut flour Polenta. boiling water and mixing with a spatula into lightly salted boiling the paste no longer longer adheres to the sides of of the cooking cooking until the Pour onto onto a floured floured cloth cloth and cut into slices. These are dish. Pour eaten as as they are, are, with with Broccio (Corsican (Corsican cheese), cheese), either eaten grilled, or fried. (See POLENTA.) POLENTA.)

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CIIERRY CHERRY BAY BAY (U.S. (U.S. CHERRY LAITREL). LAUREL). LAURTERLAURIERceRIsE-The CERISE- The leaves leaves of ofthis shrub emita emit a smell smell ofbitteralmonds ofbitter almonds this shrub when when they they are are rubbed rubbed between between the the fingers. fingers. They are used used to flavour creams of of various various kinds, kinds, but but must must be be used used sparingly sparingly flavour creams

Peeling Peeling chestnuts chestnuls on on domed domed facc face

(Claire) (Claire)

217 217

CHEVALER porridge to Tourte. This This isis aa porridge which aniseed aniseed with with pine to wbich TourIe. poured into aa kernels and and dried is poured dried raisins have been added. It is kemels baking dish dish and cooked in the oyen. oven. haking peel chestnuts, To peel chestnuts, slit the surface chestnuts on slit the surface of of the the chestnuts on the the To domed face. face. Put Put them in aa baking with aa little little water. them in tin with baking tin domed Roast in in tbe the oyen oven for 88 minutes. Peeltbem Peel them while tbey they are still still hot. chestnuts as indicated above. Another method is to slil slit the chestnuts Another few at aa time, into boiling fat fat and deep-fry for 2 Put them, aa few minutes. Drain. Peel them them while they are still hot. bot. BAReuErrEs AUX barquettes BARQUETTES Aux MARRONS MARRoNS - Line Chestnut barquettes. Chestnut 1(see barquette tins witb with Fine dough 1 DOUGH). Bake barquelle Fine pastry paslry dough (see DOUGH). purle of marrons When they are ready, fill tbem blind. Wben them with aa purée glacis (or (or purée pur6e of chestnuts chestnuts cooked cooked in milk) flavoured with glacés kirsch. lce Ice the barquelles barquettes with kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured Fondant icing kirscb. ICING). (see KING). chestnuts in MARRoNS BOlllLLlS BoUILL$ -- Put the chestnuts Boild chestnuts. MARRONS BoilOO and coyer cover with with cold cold water. Season Season with aa pinch aa saucepan and little celery, with aa littte celery, star star anise, anise, Chinese and flavour flavour with salt and of salt any other spice. anise or any Cover and simmer simmer gently for 45 minutes Bring to the boil. Coyer chestnuts and serve wrapped in aa folded to to 1I hour. Drain the chestnuts napkin, or in a wooden bowl covered with a napkin. napkin. Braised chestnuts. MARRONS MARRoNs eRArsfu chestnuts. BraisOO chestnut~. BRAISÉS -- Peel Peel the the cbestnuts. Lay them flat in aa buttered dish. Put into ioto the middle of the bouquet garni with plenty of celery. celery. Season. Season. Pour in a dish a bouquel and veal stock. stock. Cover thin of concentrated veal Coyer the the pan pan and thi.n layer layer of cook in in the oven without without stirring, so so as the oven cook as not not to to break break the chestnuts. chestnuts. in this Chestnuts prepared in tbis way are used as a a garnish for various main dishes. compote. COMPOTE Chestnut coMporE DE Cook the Chestnut compote, DE MARRol.Is MARRONS - Cook chestnuts in aa light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. serve, chestnuts vanilla. To serve, pour the cooking syrup (boiled down if if necessary) over the chestnuts. ehestn uts. They can be served served either hot cold, and may be flavoured They bol or cold, with liqueur. liqueur. confection. pAtE Chestnut confection, Chestnut PÂTÉ os DE MARRoNS MARRONS -- 'Shell the chestnuts, nuls, blanch, blancb, peel off the skin, pound in a stone slone mortar and clariff the weigh. Separately, Separately, clarify Ibe same amount of sugar, cooked offthe to ball bail degree. Take off the heat and mix with witb half half its weight of apricot of apricot jam jam or apple apple jelly. jelly. Stir, Stir, combine all the the ingredients, a slate slab or a metal of 2 or 3 spread on asiate met al sheet to a thickness thickness of lines (see WEIGHTS WEIGHTS AND AND MEASURES) and and put put into a oven until dry. On the following day, cut slow oYen eut into squares, lay lay out on on a sieve, sieve, turning tuming them tbem from from time time to time. time. When they tbey (le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) are quite dry store in boxes.' (le moderne.) cRoeuETTEs DE Chestnut croquettes Chestnut croquettes. CROQUETTES DE MARRoNS MARRONS - Chop marrons glacisvery finely. Chestnuts marrons glacés very finely. Chestnuts boiled boiled in in milk sweetened with vanilla sugar may may also be used. used. Blend Blend with thick thick French French pastry paslry cream (see (see CREAMS). CREA MS). Spread the tbe mixture mixture on on a baking baking sheet. sheel. Leave Lea ve to cool. coo 1. Divide the mixture into small portions. portions. Flour Flour each eacb piece and dip in egg and freshly made breadcrumbs. Deep-fry in clarified butter. Serve Serve with with Apricot ApriCOI sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) clarified butter. flavoured flavoured with kirsch. coNrtruRr DE MARRoNS Chestnut Cheslnul jam. jam. CONFITURIJ MARRONS - Make Make a chestnut pur6e purée with with milk milk or water. water. Put it it in in a a bowl with an an equal egual weight of of sugar, a vanilla pod pod and I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ! cup) water to every I1 ke. kg. Qt (2± lb.) lb.) of the mixture. Warm 1 gently, stirring constantly. constantly. The The jam jarn is ready ready ifif it comes cornes away away from the bottom botlom of of the pan pan when when stirred. To ensure longer preservation, put put the jam jam in special special jars jars and sterilise as for bottled bottled fruit. fruil. Marrors Marrons glaces glacés - Marrons Marrons glacds glacés are first lirst preserved preserved and and then then glazed. glazed. This This is is a long long and intricate intricate process process and is is theretherefore fore seldom seldom undertaken undertaken in in the the home. home. Chestnut Mont-Blanc (sweet (sweet dessert). dessert). MoNT-BLANc MONT-BLANC AUX AUX

chestnuts, leaving the inner skin. Cover skin. Coyer - Shell the chestnuts, with water and bring to the hoil. boil. Remove the inner skin. skin. Sim mer the Simmer the chestnuts chestnuts unlil until soft in milk, milk, with with sugar and soft in sugar and vanilla. Drain and rub them them through a wire sieve over aa large ring baking tin, lined with the tin, so so that that the sides of of the tin tin are lined pur6e, which will look like vermicelti. sieved vermicelli. sieved purée, Tum Turn this horder it is quite cold, fil! fill border out onto aa dish. dish. When il (see CREAMS) flavoured the the centre centre with with Chan/illy cream (see Chantilly cream with vanilla. Shape Shape the cream into a dome. puneE DE puree. PURÉE DE MARRONS MARRoNs -- Shell Chestnut Shell the the chestnuts, chestnuts, Chestnut purée. leaving the inner skin intact. Plunge Plunge them into boiling boiling water, and skin. in white white stock seasoned little drain, drain, and skin. Cook Cook in seasoned with aa lîttle pur6e celery. Drain, and rub through Warm Ihis through aa fine fine sieve. Warm this purée in in aa saucepan, stirring constantly. Just Just before serving, serving, add fresh butter hutter and aa few few tablespoons fresh cream. puree soup or cream cream--seeSOUPS BROTHS, Chestnut purkesoupor see SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purée soups. Pur6e Chestnuts and rice. BORDURE BoRDURE DE MARRONS MARRoT{S AU RIZ RIz -- Peel the chestnuts and cook in aa light light syrup flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. chestnuts and cook in pyramid surrounded by in aa pyramid Drain, Drain, and and arrange arrange Ihem them in by a prepared as for Apricols horderofrice Apricots Condé(seeAPRICOT). Conde (see APRICOT). border of rice prepared Decorate the the top and of the the horder border with with crystallised fruit fruit and top of (see SAUCE) sauce (see halved almonds. almonds. Serve with Apricot Apricol sauce halved Serve with flavoured with kirsch. Lightly eut Roasl MARRONS GRILLÉS· cut aa ring Roa$ chestnuts. MARRoNS cRnrfs Lightly chestnuts. Roast them in aa pan round the chestnuts. pan on round on hot embers or all are are thoroughly the stove, tossing tossing them frequently so that that aH tboroughly on the cooked. Chestnut DE MARRoNs MARRONS - Make a Chestnut soufflé. soufr6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrj DE a chestnut puree with purée witb stock stock or milk, and use for a soufflé, souffi6, proceeding as souffii (see SOUFFLÉ). for PolalO souffié for Potato SOUFFLE). pouDrNG SOUFFLÉ sorfi6. POUDING sourrrE AUX AUx MARRoNS Sweet chestnut soufflé. MARRONS (2+ lb.) chestnul~ Peel Peel I1 kg. (2i chestnuts and eook cook them in a light syrup, flavoured with vanilla. Add to this pur6e, purée, while stirring it on (5 oz., moisture, 150 g. g. (5 oz., generous the stove to evaporate the moisture, (4 oz.,i~cup) cup) fine sugar and butter. and 100 g. (40z., cup) butter. i~cup) Remove the pan from the stove and and blend in 8 egg yolks. Whisk 6 egg whites until they are are very stiff. Blend them in at Whisk las! minute. minute. the last mixture into into a buttered mould. mould. Put Put the the mould in a Pour the mixture pan of Serve with custard (q.v.) (g.v.) of water and bake in the oven. Serve zabaglione (q.v.). or zabaglione garnish. umnoNs StewOO chestnuts as as aa garnish. MARRONS fruvps ÉTuvÉS poun POUR Stewed chestnub GARNITURE -- Peel the chestnul~. bultered pan. chestnuts. Put them in a buttered cARMTURE Coyer with clear vegetable dishes, Cover clear white stock (or, for fish or vegetable teaspOOl1 fine sugar and a with water). Add a pinch of of salt, I1 teaspoon celery. stick of celery. Coyer and leave to simmer very Bring rapidly to the boil. Cover slowly for 45 minutes. slowly Serve Serve as indicated indicated in the recipe for the main dish. dish. MARRONS MARRol.Is -

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CHEVALER Term indicating the the symmetrical arrangearrangement of of the tbe various various elements elements of of a dish placed one upon the tbe other. CHEVALET -- A A slice of bread trimmed en en chevalet chevalet and and

covered covered with wafer-thin wafer-tbin slices slices of of fat pork or butter, butter, on which wbich cbicken filets fi/els mignons mignons (breasts) (breasts) are are placed placed to give give them them a chicken correct shape while wh.ite cooking. cooking.

CIIBVRET CHEV RET -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHEVRIER - A type of of haicotflageolet haricotfiageolel (bean) which which stays CHEVRIER-A green. Cultivated especially in the neighbourhood neighbourhood of of Arpajon, jon, it bears bears the the name name of of the originator originator of this this variety. variety. (See BEAN.) BEAN.) CHEVROTIN -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. CHEYROTIN

CHEVROTTON CHEVROTTON DE DE MACON_ MACON - See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

2t8 218

CHICKEN

CHIANTI CHIANTI wrNES.) WINES.)

--

Tuscany Tuscany wine. wine. (See (See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL

separately when handing the sauce, all piping hot. separately In set the the fowl fowl on In making making an an ornamental arrangement set on aa base order to to keep keep it it separate separate from from the fried bread in in order base of fried garnish. garnish. To bake chickens and capons capons in in butter. Clean, truss To truss and and bard the bird. Put in a a heavy-bottomed heavy-bottomed pot, pour melted butter over it, season, and cook quickly few moments over aa good quickly for a a few heat. Finish oven, covered, covered, basting Finish cooking cooking in the oyen, basting frequently with its butter. Garnish Garnish according to the the recipe. recipe. Serve with its cooking cooking juices juices diluted according to the the particular recipe. To bake chickens chickens and capons capons d à la Matignon. Matignon. Clean, draw, truss and bard the bird. Put it in aa pan whose base is lined with Matignon Matignon (q.v.) half-cooked half-cooked in butter. butter. Pour Pour melted butter over, season, and cook covered in the oven, frequently with its butter. butter. oyen, basting frequently When the chicken is cooked and golden brown, moisten with concentrated veal or chicken stock and baste with this juice. juice. Garnish and and serve serve with with its its own own cooking cooking juice, juice, diluted according according to the recipe. recipe. (old style). To To bake bake chickens chickens and capons d à la la Matignon Matignon (old Crisp in butter the the flesh flesh of a fowl prepared as as for braising. Crisp Coyer itit in a thick thick layer of of Matignon Matignon (q.v.); bard and wrap it Cover sheet of of buttered paper. Cook Cook in the oven oyen or on the spi in aa sheet spit.t. Unwrap the the chicken, chicken, take take off the the bard bard and and remove remove the Unwrap Matignon. Put Put the bird bird in a saucepan, saucepan, pour over Madeira. Madeira. Matignon. Boil down down the the liquid liquid and and add add veal stock that has been boiled boilcd Boil down and and thickened. thickened. Remove Remove all ail fat and strain. down Garnish according according to to the the recipe recipe and serve serve with its cooking cooking Garnish liquor. liquor. recipes given given below below can can be be augmented by by serving serving The recipes braised, boiled boiled or baked baked chicken chicken with different vegetables, vegetables, braised, with pasta pasta and and with with other other garnishes. garnishes. with

CHICHA CHICHA -- Mexican Mexican and and Central Central American American alcoholic alcoholic beverage beverage obtained obtained from from the the fermentation fennentation of of maize maize flour.

CHICKEN. CHICKEN. pouLETs, POULETS, pouLARDEs, POULARDES, voLATLLE vOLAILLE - Chicken Chicken is the generic generic term term used used to to describe the the barnyard barnyard fowl fowl and and includes everything from from the the very young young chicken (poussin) (poussin) to to c1udes everything the the large large hen hen suitable suitable only only for for the the stockpot. stockpot. The The young chickens chickens (poulet (poulet de de grain grain and poulet poulet de de reine) weigh from 600 600 to to 1800 1800 g. g. (l| (1 t to to 4lb.). 4 lb.). Poulet Poulet gras gras weigh weigh from 1800 1800 g. to 22 ke. kg. (a (4 to to 4| 4t lb.), lb.), and and fat fat hens hens or roasting roasting chicken chicken weigh from from 1800 1800 g. g. to to 33 kg. kg. (4 (4 to to 6+ 6! lb.) lb.) or more more and and are are called ca lied poulardes poulardes in in French. French. Recipes Recipes for for the the different different kinds kinds of chicken chicken are are grouped grouped together together in in alphabetical alphabetical order in this this section. section. A A good good poulet poulet has has tender tender flesh, flesh, elastic, elastic, but but not not flabby; flabby; the the feet feet can can be be black black or or white white according according to to the the breed, breed, but but never never yellow. The comb comb should should be be small small and and unformed, unformed, the the skin yellow. The loose loose and and white, white, and and the the parson's parson's nose nose white white or or pinkish pinkish with with aa knob knob offat of fat above above reaching reaching the the backbone. backbone. Chicken Chicken flesh flesh can can replace replace meat meat and and when when grilled grilled or or roasted roasted is is suitable suitable for for all aIl diets. diets. Chicken Chicken in in sauce. sauce, chicken with with mushrooms, mushrooms, or or creamed creamed chicken chicken are are less less so. so. Try to to avoid avoid buying'battery' buying 'battery' chickens. chickens. The The principal principal types types of of French French hens hens are are those those of of Bresse, Bresse, Houdan, Houdan, La La Fldche, Flèche, Crdvecoeur, Crèvecoeur, Barbezieux, Barbezieux, Faverolles Faverolles and and Le Le Mans. Mans. General General cooking cooking instructiore instructions for for chicken chicken -- When Wh en braising braising chicken chicken there there should should be be as as little little as as possible possible of of cooking cooking liquid, liquid, so so as as not not to to dissipate dissipate the the delicate delicate flavour. flavour. Sauces Sauces accompanying accompanying braised braised fowl fowl are are made made with with the the liquor liquor in in which which itit was was cooked, cooked, strained, strained, all ail grease grease skimmed skimmed off, off, and and finished finished according according to to the the recipe. recipe. Boiled Boiled orpoached or poached chicken chickenisiscooked cooked inin white white stock stock (chicken (chicken or or veal) veal) or or in in aa light light beef beefstock. stock. AA savoury savoury stock stock can can be be made made with with the the neck, neck, head head and and crop, crop, and and the the feet, feet, cooked cooked in in water water with with aromatic aromatic vegetables vegetables and and the the usual usual seasonings. seasonings. Boiled Boiled chicken chicken is is accompanied accompanied by by white white or or light light sauce, sauce, made made with with the the liquor liquor in in which which itit was was cooked. cooked. A A white white roux roux should be be made made in in advance, advance, with with butter butter and and flour flour cooked cooked should gently gently together together without without colouring, colouring, and and moistened moistened with with sorne of ofthe the chicken chicken broth broth when when the the mixture mixture isis about about threethreesome quarters quarters cooked. cooked. Different ways ways of of finishing finishing these these sauces sauces are are given given in in the the Different Iist of of white white sauces sauces (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Compound Compound white white sauces). sauces). list Chicken baked baked in in butter butter (cooked (cooked in in the the oven oyen in in aa covered covered Chicken dish) isis accompanied accompanied by by the the cooking cooking juices juices skimmed skimmed of of fat, fat, dish) diluted, and and thickened. thickened. Cream Cream isis sometimes sometimes used. used. diluted, Chicken baked baked dà la la Matignon Matignon is is accompanied accompanied by by the the Chicken juices diluted cookingjuices dilutedwith withwine, wine, blended blended with withveal veal or orchicken chicken cooking stock, and and bound bound with with rich rich brown brown sauce. sauce. The The garnish garnish for for aa stock, chicken dish dish isis either either cooked cooked with with the the chicken chicken or or prepared prepared chicken separately, according according to to the the recipe. recipe. separately, ln none none of ofthe the recipes recipes that that follow follow should should all ail the the sauce sauce be be In usedtotocoat coatthe thebird. bird.AA very verylittle little only only should should be be poured poured over over used and the the rest rest served served separately. separately. it,it, and Sorneinstructions instructionsfor forcooking cookinglarge large fowls fowls call cali for for stuffings stuffings Some andprepared preparedmixtures. mixtures. Recipes Recipesfor for these thesewill will be be found found under under and FORCEMEAT. FORCEMEAT. In garnished garnished chicken chicken dishes, dishes, particularly particularly those those served served at at In large dinners, dinners, the the bird bird isis often often left left whole. whole. This This calls calls for for aa Iarge decorative presentation. presentation. ItIt isis important, important, however, however, that that the the decorative garnish should should not not cancel cancel out out the the flavour flavour of of the the dish. dish. garnish Garnishesshould should be bearranged arrangedso so that that the thebird birdcan can be be quickly quickly Garnishes carved. Do Donot not set setall all the the accompaniments accompaniments on on the the main main dish dish carved. but use use only only aa small small part part as as aa garnish, gamish, and and serve serve the the rest rest but

Braised chicken chic ken Braised

To braise braise chickens chickens and and capons. capons. Draw, Draw, singe, singe, clean c1ean and and truss truss To the bird. bird. Dip Dip itit for for aa moment moment into into boiling boiling stock stock to to solidify solidify the the flesh, flesh, then then lard lard the the breast breast with with bacon bacon fat, fat, truffies, truffies, or or the tongue. tongue. Coyer the the breast breast with with aa bard bard of of bacon bacon fat fat big big enough enough to to Cover protect this this delicate delicate part part of of the the bird bird during during cooking cooking so so that that protect does not not become become too too dry. dry. Brown Brown the the chicken chicken in in aa hot hot oven, oyen, itit does and then then put put itit into into aa heavy heavy braising braising pan pan with with the the ingredients ingredients and used for for braising braising white white meat meat (see (see CULINARY CULlNARY METHODS, METHODS, used Braising). Braising). Pour in in the the liquid liquid indicated indicated in in the the recipe, recipe, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, Pour coyerthe thepot, pot, return return to to the the oven oyen and and cook, cook, basting basting frequently. frequently. cover Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove remove the the bard bard and and trussing trussing string string Drain and glazn glaze in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting itit with with the the cooking cooking liquor. liquor. and Set itit on on aa slice slice of of fried fried bread bread (or (or directly directly onto onto the the plate), plate), Set garnish, and and serve serve itit with with aa sauce sauce containing containing the the liquid liquid in in garnish, was cooked. cooked. which itit was which 219 2t9

CHICKEN CHICKEN How Howto totruss trussaachicken chicken

Pierce with with threaded threaded trussing trussing needle needle the the left left thigh, thigh, the the breast breast and and the the right right t.1. Pierce thigh thigh

2. 2. Lay Lay the the chicken chic ken on on its its left left side side and and sew sew through through the the right right wing wing

3. back and pierce the left wing. wing. pierce the the back side; cross cross the is on on its its right right side; The chicken chicken is 3. The

tie !hem them ofstring 4. Bring Bring the two ends of 4. string together and tie

right to to left left from right part of body from pierce the lower part of the the body the lower Next pierce 6.6. Next

5.5. Pass the and under under the part of the drumsticks drumsticks and lower part of the the lower Pass the needle through through the the needle breast right from left left to to right breast from

roast braiseor orroast readytotobraise trussed, ready andtrussed, bardedand 8.8.Chicken Chickenbarded

7.7.Pull the string tiethem them andlie ofthe stringand endsof Pullthe thetwo twoends

220 220

CHICKEN CHICKEN Carving Carving a chicken chicken into portions portions

2. Remove Remove the the right right wing wing

dlicken: first remove remove the the right right leg Ll. Raw chicken:

Remove the left wing 4. Remove

3. Place chicken on right side and rem ove the left leg remove

in half half 6. Cut Cut the the carcase carcase in 6.

5. 5. Cut Cut away away the fl1lets fillets on eilher either side side

in half A sm can he be eut cut in halflengthwise srnall chicken can 8.8. A ail chicken lengthwise

7.7. Roast Roast chicken in the the same same way. way. cut up up in chicken isis eut

22r 221

CHICKEN Surround quenelles (q.v.) (q.v.) of of chicken chicken forcemeat, Surround with with quenel/es mushrooms mushrooms and thick slices slices of of trufres. truffles. Coat with Banquiire Banquière sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Boiled Boiled chlcken chlcken à I'anglaise l'anglaise I. roULARDE POULARDE pocufn POCHÉE A À L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Poach in in white white stock. stock. Surround Surround with with small slices of tongue, tongue, and and with with small small mounds mounds of celery, peas, peas, slices carrots in water. carrots and turnips turnips cooked in Boiled Boiled chicken chicken à I'anglaise l'anglaise rI. IoULARDE POULARDE pocHsr pocHÉE A À L'ANGLIISE L'ANGLAISE -- Poach Poach in water water with with a carrot carrot cut eut in quarters, an onion herbs and wellonion stuck stuck with with aa clove, clove, a bunch bunch of ofherbs and aa piece piece of ofwellbalanced lean bacon bacon weighing weighing 400 g. (14 oz.). oz.). balanced Surround Surround with with the the bacon bacon cut cut in in squares. Serve Serve with with Parsley Pars/ey sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA U CE) and and chicken cbicken broth. broth.

To poach poach or boil chickens chickens and and capons. Clean and truss the

bird. bird. Rub the the breast and legs with a slice of of lemon to keep them white. white.

Lard or stud stud the the breast with fat. fat. Cover with wilh a bard bard of bacon bacon fat. fat. Bring Dring to to the boil boil in white white stock stock and cook cook quickly quickly for for a few moments. moments. Skim, Skim, cover coyer the the saucepan, saucepan, and simmervery simmer very slowly. slowly. To test test whether wh ether the chicken is is cooked, prick prick a fleshy fleshy part part with wi th the point of of a knife. knife. IfIf a clear clear juice juice escapes esca pes it is is done. done. Drain Drain the the chicken, then remove remove the bard bard and the the trussing trussing

-

string. Garnish and and serve with with a white white sauce to which which is is added added some of of the the liquor liquor in in which which the the chicken chicken was was cooked. Chicken Chicken ià I'allemande. J'allemande. poULARDE POULARDE A À t',qneMnNoE L'ALLEMANDE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white stock. Coat Coat with with Allemande Allemande sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) to to which which part part of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking liquor 1iq uor has been added. added. Chicken Chickeo Ambassadrice. Arnbas."adri ce. poULARDE POULARDE AMBASs^A.DRrcE AMBASSADRICE -- Stuff the the chicken chic ken with a mixture mixture of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with with Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook Cook itit covered, covered, in in the the oven, oyen, dil la /0 Matignon. Matignon. Surround with with pastry pastry cases cases filled filled with with saut6ed sautéed chicken livers, truffie heated livers, cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. kidneys. Put Put a slice of oftruffie heated

i

I.

i

II.

i

m. III.

pourl.nop Boiled Boiled chicken chicken à I'anglaise l'anglaise POULARDE pocrcs pocIiÉE AÀ L'ANGLAISE - Poach Poach the the chicken in in white white stock with small L'ANGLAISE carrots, carrots, pieces pieces ofturnip of tumip cut cut into ioto balls, balls, and and celery celery hearts. hearts.

-

Surround with with these these vegetables, vegetables, adding adding cooked cooked French French beans beans and and cauliflower. cauliflower. Serve Buller sauce sauce (Se, (see SAUCE), SA UCE), capers capers and and chicken Serve with with Butter broth. broth. Chicken Chicken ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. poULARDE POULARDE A À rA LA noNNe BONNE FEMITE fEMMECook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered covered in in butter, butter, in in the the oven. oyen. When When itit isis half-cooked half-cooked add add 55 rashers rashers blanched. blanched, diced lean lean bacon. bacon, and and 20 20 small small onions. onions. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) small small potatoes. potatoes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all aU together, together, basting basting frequently. frequently. Put Put the the chicken chicken and and its its garnish garnish in in aa cocotte cocotte or or on on aa platter. platter. Add Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* (i cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy to to the the cooking cooking butter buttcr and and pour pour over over the the chicken. chicken. Chicken Chicken bouch6eg bouchées, canapdg canapés, cro0tes CfOC.tes and and tartelettes tartelettes -- All Ali these these are are filled filled with wÎth aa salpicon sa/pican (q.v.) of of poultry poultry finished finished off off with with truffies, trumes, mushrooms mushrooms or or other other ingredients ingredients and and bound bound with with aa white white or or brown brown sauce. sauce. Chicken Chicken boudim boudins Ià la la Richelieu. Richelieu. BouDINs BOUDrNS oE DE voturtr.q, VOLAILLE À r-rq, LA RIcI{ELIEU RICHELIEU * - Line Line small, small, well-buttered well-buttered moulds moulds with with Chicken Chicken forcemeat dà la /a crime crème (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Fill Fill the the moulds moulds forcemeat with with aa salpicon sa/picon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of breast breast of of chicken, chicken, truffies truffies and and mushmushrooms, rooms, blended blended with with very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of of chicken chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, which which should should be be well well smoothed smoothed over over with wilh the the blade blade of of aa knife knife dipped dipped in in cold cold water. water. Place Place the the moulds moulds in in aa baking baking tin tin of of hot hot water water in in the the oven, oven, and and poach. poach. When When cooked, cooked, turn tum out out of of the the moulds, moulds, dry, dry, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter bUller until until light light golden. golden. Arrange Arrange in in aa turban turban shape shape on on aa dish, dish, packing packing them them in in tightly. tightly. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Pirigueux Périgueux sauce or SuprAme Suprême sauce SQlIce with with diced diced truffies truffies added added to to itit (see (see sauce or SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken Chicken ià la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. pour,c,nor POULARDE A À LA LA BoURGEOTSE BOURGEOISE -Cook Cook the the chicken chicken in in butter butter in in aa covered covered casserole casserole in in the the oven. oyen. When When half-cooked half-cooked add add 55 rashers rash ers of of diced diced lean lean bacon, bacon, 20 20 small small onions onions and and 20 20 small small carrots. carrots. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all totogether, gether, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices juices with with white white wine wine and and thickened thickene'd veal veal gravy, gravy, pour pour over over the the chicken chicken and and garnish. garnish. Chicken Chicken ià la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. IoULARDE POULARDE A À re LA souncurcBOURGUIGNoNNE NONNE -- Brown Brown 55rashers rashers blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon in25 in 25 g. g. (l (l oz., oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Add Add 20 20 small small onions onions and and 20 20 sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Take Take these these out out and and brown brown the the chicken chicken in in the the same same butter. butter. Remove Remove the the chicken. chicken. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with with 44 dl. dl. (* (: pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) red red wine wine and and boil boil down down by by half. half. Add Add 44 dl. dl. (* G pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) brown brown graW, gravy, cook cook at at boiling boiling point point for for 55 minutes minutes and and add add aa bouquet bouqlle! garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Put Put the the chicken chicken back back in in the the pan. pan. Cook Cook gently gently for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the bacon. bacon, onions onions and and mushrooms mushrooms and and concontinue tinue cooking cooking for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour.

in in butter butter on on each. each. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking cookîng juices juices diluted with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Chicken Chic ken ià I'andalouse. l'andalouse. poULARDE POULARDE A À r'ANoAlousr L'ANDALOUSE -- Stuff the the chicken chicken with wi th rice rice mixed mixed with wi th small small pieces pieces of of lean lean ham ham and and seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Cook Cook in in butter butter in in aa heavy heavy pan, pan, adding adding (for (for flavouring) flavouring) one one large large onion and and aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). Serve Serve garnished garnished dà I'andalouse tanda/ouse (q.v.). (q.v.). Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with this trus garnish garnish and sprinkle sprinkle with with juices diluted its its cooking cookingjuices diluted with with white white wine, wine, to to which which thickened thickeoed brown brown veal veal gravy gravy and and tomato tomato pur6e purée have have been been added. added. Chicken Chicken ià I'anversoise. l'anversoise. poULARDE POULARDE A À r'ANveRsorsn L'ANVERSOISE - Stuff Stuff the Hop shoots shoots (see (see HOPS) HOPS) in in cream. cream. Simmer Simmer in in the chicken chicken with with Hop butter butter in in a covered covered dish dish until until the the bird bird is three-quarters three-quarters cooked. cooked. Transfer Transfer to to aa casserole casserole with with 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) potatoes, pOlatoes, lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Complete Complete cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Pour Pour aa small small quantity quantity of of the the pan pan juices, juices, diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and thickened thîckened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, over over the the chicken. chicken. Serve Serve in in the the casserole. casserole. Chicken Chicken in in aspic. aspic. IoULARDE POULARDE EN EN Asprc ASPIC -- Cut Cut the the breast breast and and wings wings of of aa cold, cold, boiled boiled chicken chicken into into thin thin slices, slices, and and coat coat with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with with trufres trumes andglaze and glaze with with chicken chicken jelly. jelly. Set Set these these pieces pieces in in an an aspic aspic mould mould that that has has been been lined lined with with aa layer layer of of jelly. jelly. Fill Fill the the middle middle of of the the mould mould with with Chicken Chicken mousse (see MOUSSES) MOUSSES) made made of of the the flesh flesh of of the the chicken chicken legs legs mousse (see with with the the addition addition of offoie foie gras. gras. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with the the aspic aspic jelly, jelly, leave leave to to cool, cool, and and chill chill on on ice. ice. Turn Tum out out onto onto aa dish, dish, or or raised raised on on aa crofiton croûton of of bread. bread. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. Chicken l'Aurora. poULARDE POULARDE A À r'lunope L'AURORE -- Poach Poach the the Chicken ilà I'Aurora. chicken chicken in in white white stock. stock. Coat Coat with with Aurora Aurora sauce salice (ser, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which has has been been added added aa small small quantity quantity of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking cooking liquor. liquor. with cream Stuff Stuffwith cream Quenelle Quenelleforcemea( (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) for cemeat (see flavoured flavoured with with strong strong tomato tomaLO pur6e. purée. Chicken Chicken ballottines. baUottines. BALLorrrNEs BALLOTTINES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Use Use either either aa whole whole boned boned chicken, chicken, filled filled with with stuffing, stuffing, rolled rolled in in aa ballottine ballottine and and braised braised or or poached poached (see (see BALLOTTINE), BALLOITINE), or or legs legs of of large large chickens chickens prepared prepared in in the the same same manner. manner. The The latter latter are are usually usually called called Jambonneaux Jambonneaux de de volaille. volaille. Chicken Ch.icken Ià la la banquiire. banquière. pouLARDn POULARDE AÀ r,c, LA s.A,NeuriRE BANQUIÈRE -- Stuff Stuff the the chicken chicken with with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in white white stock stock mixed mixed with with 22 tablespoons ta blespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) ta blespoons) diced diced trufres. tmffles. Poach Poach in in white white stock. stock. 222 222

CHICKEN CHICKEN Detach the breasts. Trim Trim and flatten them them a little, little, stud with

Remove the bouquet and pour the bouquet garni and the sauce over over the chicken. brochettes. BRocITETTES BROCHETTES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE - Thread Thread Chicken brochettes. of chicken on metal skewers alternately alternately with pieces pie ces of slices of lean bacon and mushrooms. Coat in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs grill. and grill. Chicken broth broth @nglistr (English and and American American cookery) cookery) -- See CNcken SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Chicken capilotade. pouI"Er POULET EN EN cAprLorADE CAPILOTADE - Use Use leftChicken of boiled, braised, or roasted roasted chicken cbicken for this dish. dish. overs ofboiled, Take Take the the chicken chicken off the the bones, bones, cut cut in in thin slices, slices, and simmer in in a a sauce sauce such such as as Chasseur, Italian, Italian, Portuguese, Portuguese, simmer Provengal, SA UCE). Provençal, etc. (see SAUCE). POULARDE EN EN cAssERorr CASSEROLE - Put Put the Chicken casserole. casserole. poULARDE Chicken chicken, chicken, trussed trussed for for boiling boiling and and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and pepper, pepper, in a casserole in which some sorne butter butter has been melted. melted. Cook in the oven oyen at a good heat. Cook Pour 4 to 5 tablespoons thickened rich brown veal stock dish. over the dish. POULARDE EN Chic ken casserole casserole Ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. poULARDE Chicken LA BONNE FEMME - As As above, adding to the CASSEROLE À cAssERoLE A r,c, soNl.rE FEMIVTE adding to in butter, butter, small chicken, when wh en it has been been well weil browned browned in chicken, it has been pieces of blanched lean bacon, small onions that have been tossed pieces. tossed in butter, butter, and potatoes potatoes cut cut into pieces. (brown). rouranon Chicken with celery (brown). POULARDE AUX - Cook lux CÉLERIS cfrnnn-Cook Chickenwitlr ken in butter in a covered casserole in the oyen. oven. chicken the chic Surround with braised, braised, quartered celery hearts. Dilute the cooking juices with white wine wine and and thickened brown veal grary, and gravy, and pour over the bird. Alternatively, the chic ken may be braised with blanched chicken celery. lux CÉLERIS c6lsns -- As POULARDE AUX Chicken with celery celery (white). IoULARDE chicken with braised Chicken àd l'allemande. braised for Chicken I'allemande. Surround the chicken (see SA celery. Pour Allemande sauce (see UCE) over it. Pow Allemande SAUCE) eourenor À A LA r,c, CHANTILLY Chicken ài la Chantilly. POULARDE cHlNiluv -- Stuff truffies or or diced rice mixed mixed with truffies the the chicken with with cooked cooked rice foie gras. Cook butter, in aa covered dish in the oyen, oven, but Cook in butter, foie gras. do not allow to brown. in port wine, Surround with with large whole truffies truffes cooked in grar lightly and slices of lightly fried fried in butter. and foie gras butter. Dilute the pan of foie juices with white stock, add tbick Velouti sauce (see juices thick chicken Velouté few tablespoons and simmer down by half. half. Add aa few tablespoons SAUCE) and whipped cream and pour over the chicken.

pieces tongue and truffies, and put them oftongue them in in a buttered buttered dish. dish. pieces of

Cook the four leg joints, joints, the ends ends of the wings and and the divided carcases as fricassée. Drain and wipe the leg as for a fricassie. joints, breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified clarified joints, coat with egg and breadcrumbso butter. butter. Arrange the and wingtips in a a pastry pastry the pieces of carcase and case. Pour Pour over them the strained strained fricassde fricassée sauc€. sauce. joints on top of Place the leg of the carcases carcases and between between each legjoints leg put put a wing. Poach Poach the breasts and place on top. top. Serve with the rest of the the fricassie fricassée sauee. sauce. to which mushrooms and truffies have been added. added. Chicken Chicken chipolata. chipolata. IoULARDE POULARDE cHIpoLATA CHI POLA TA - Braise Braise the chicken with a garnish garnish of of chipolata chipolata chicken in brown brown gravy. Surround with sausages sausages (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Pour the the pan juices juices diluted with Madeira Madeira and mixed with Rich Rich brown brown sauce (s*, (see SAUCE) SA UCE) over the dish. dish. Chicken Ià la Chivry. POULARDE A À ur LA cstvRv CHIVRY - Poach the Chivry. IoULARDE chicken in white stock. Surround Surround with artichoke bottoms bottoms garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips or or fresh fresh peas. peas. Pour Chivry (se SAUCE) over the chicken. sauce (see For a variation, serve the chicken with with Chivry sauce sauce and and mixed vegetables served separately. separately. Chicken àI la Clamart. Clamart. PoULARDE POULARDE A À r.e, LA cllrrannr CLAMART - Halfas for boiling. Add cook in butter a chicken trussed as cook Add I1 litre (lf, pints, generous quart) fresh peas dà lafrançaise lafrangaisewhich which have (làand finish been cooked. Cover been three-quarters cooked. Coyer with with a a lid lid and cooking in the oyen. cooking oven. prepared in are called Small chickens chickens prepared same way in the the same way are Small poulets Clamart.. poulets d à la Clamart

in cocotte. cocotte. poULARDE cocorrE -- Chicken Chicken in Chicken POULARDE EN EN COCOTTE Chic ken receptacle. cooked in a pot or casserole and served served in the the same receptacle. cooked coMporE -- Truss the cbicken chicken Chicken compote. pouI.Er POULET EN COMPOTE Chicken (see as for for boiling. for Compote Compote of of pigeon boiling. Prepare Prepare as as for pigeon (see as PIGEON). BROTHS. consomm6 -- See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS. Chicken consommé Chicken DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- U Chicken c0telettes. CÔTELETTES cdrsl-rrrEs DE Under Chic ken côtelettes. nder this name are known known the following: poultry removed l. Breasts Breasts of removed when when raw raw and and cooked of poultry 1. separately, to be served as a small entrée. entrie. separately, 2. Croquettes made made with with aa chicken chicken croquette croquette mixture, mixture, 2. into the in egg and the shape of cutlets, coated coated in and breadformed into crumbs, and fried in butter. Variety of of quenelles made with a poultry forcemeat and and 3. Variety 3. poached in aa special mould. To prepare chicken breasts. Remove the breasts of aa small fat hen after having taken off offthe roasting chicken or aa fat the skin. joint. Flatten ligbtly. lightly. Leave the wingtips on the joint. To cook l'anglaise. Season Season the citelettes, cook in in butter butter àd l'anglaise. the côtelettes, To and breadcrumbs, and sprinkle with with flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and sprinkle cook in clarified butter butter.. Garnish and add sauce according to the recipe. Chicken côtelettes may be coated with with breadcrumbs to citelettes may be coated Chicken chopped truffies or other ingredients have been added. which chopped To cook Season the citelettes, brush with cook à d blanc, or poach. Season the côtelettes, To flat in aa buttered sauté saut€ pan. Add melted butter, and lay them fiat juice; coyer and cook for for 6 to few drops of lemon lemon juice; cover the the pan and aa few oven. 8 minutes in aa very hot oyen. Garnish and and add sauce according to to the recipe. The cooking must be cooking of chicken côtelettes cbtelettes àd blanc blanc must be done The The liquid liquid must be without boiling. but without boiling. The extremely rapidly but juice indicated above. drops of lemon juice above. limited to the few drops To cook cook in in butter butter àd brun. brun. Season Season the the côtelettes, cbtelettes, sprinkle sprinkle To quickly sauté with flour flour and and quickly in clarified clarified butter. butter. Cook Cook very very saut6 in with pieces are liable to lightly as as these are extremely delicate and and liable these pieces extremely delicate lightly if over-cooked. over-cooked. become tough if Garnish and and add add sauce according to the recipe. Put paper sauce according to the Garnish frills on on the the ends. ends. friUs

(oints) Chaud-froid of Chaud-froid of cbicken chicken (joints)

voI-Arr-r-E -- A DE VOLAILLE chicken. CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froid of of chicken. cHAUD-FRoID DE joints of cold entrée. in aa flour-and-water flour-and-water cold entrCe. Poach Poach joints of chicken chicken in stock, drain, drain, and and coat with white white or brown- Chaud-froid stock, coat with or brown (see SAUCE). glazed in jelly. sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with truffies, glazed poULARDE À A LA r,c, CHEVAUÈRE Chicken Chicken ài la chevalière. chevali&re. POULARDE cHEvarGnr -- Take Take pieces of off off the wings wings of chickens. Trim, Trim, and and insert insert small of 22 chickens. small pieces of Braise in bacon fat under the skin. in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured stock. skin. Braise stock. 223 223

CHICKEN CHICKEN Cdtelettes are are served served on on croûtons, croOtons, vegetables, vegetables, etc, etc. Côtelettes Chicken côtelettes cOtelettes àA l'anglaise. I'anglaise. CÔTELETTES cOTELETTES DE or VOLAILLE vorllrrr ÀA Chicken L'.a,NGLaIsr - Season Season and and coat coat the the côtelelles citelettes in in egg egg and and L'ANGLAISE breadcrumbs. Sauté Saut6 in in butter. green vegetable butter. Garnish Garnish wi with vegetable breadcrumbs, th aa green in butter. butter. Serve Serve wi with gravy. tossed in thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. tossed th thickened Chicken côtelettes cdtelettes Helder. Helder. CÔTELETTES cOTELETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE Chicken IIELDER _.- Cook Cook the garnish with the côtelettes citelettes àd blanc. blanc. Dish Dish and and garnish with HELDER (q.v.) of salpicon (q,v,) of carrots, carrots, artichoke artichoke bot bottoms, trufres and and aa salpicon toms, trumes mushrooms eooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter. butter. mushrooms (see SAUCE) Coat with with rich chicken Velouté Velouti sauce rich chicken sauce (see SAUCE) Coat juice. Add diluted witb with 1I tablespoon tablespoon tomato tomato juice, Add strained strained butter. butter. diluted Chickm côtelettes cOtelettes maréchale. marechale. CÔTELETTF,S c6rErerrEs DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE Chicken rr,llnEcn,ll.r - Coat Coat the cbtelettes with the côtelettes with egg and breadegg and breadMARÉCHALE crumbs, adding adding to to the breadcrumbs aa third the breadcrumbs third oftheir of theirvolume of crumbs, volume of chopped trumes. truffies. Sauté Saut6 in in butter. butter. chopped Top each each côtelelle citelette with with slices slices of of trumes, truffies, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with Top (see BUTTER, Noisette buller butter (sec BUTTER, Compound Compound bUllers), butters'). Noiselle Chicken crépinettes crdpinettes -- See See CRÉPINETTES, CREPINETTES. Chicken pourrr ÀA LA CRAPAUDINE la crllpaudine. Chicken à la crapaudine. POULET cRApAr,JDrNE Chlcken Prepareo using using aa small roasting chicken, chicken, as as Pigeon small roasting Pigeon àd la la Prepare, (see PIGEON), crapaudine (sec PIGEON). crapaudine croquettes. CROQUETTES Chicken croquettes. cRoeuETTEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE -- Combine Chicken (see finely chopped chopped chicken chicken with with thick Velouti sauce sauce (see thick Velouté finely yolk and SAUCE). Bind Bind with with an an egg and season egg yolk season weil well with with salt, salt, SAUCE), juice. Cool pepper and lemon juice. and lemon Make into Cool thoroughly. thoroughly. Make into small small pepper oval croquettes, croquettes. Coat Coat with with beaten egg egg and fine fine breadcrumbs oval and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. and pouuRDE AUX Chicken with with cucumber. cucumber. POULARDE Aux CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs Chicken Follow recipe recipe for for Chicken Chicken àd l'allemande, l'allemande. Sur Surround with Follow round with cucumber cut cut in in chunks chunks and and simmered simmered in in butter. butter. Pour over cueumber (see SAUCE), Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce (Plunerey's recipe). CARI curry (plumerey's Chicken curry 'Toss cARr DE pouLET Chlcken POULET -- 'Toss (generous in g. (generous chickens eut cut in in pieces 500 g, in butter butter two two chickens pieces with with 500 lb.) of uncooked ham and eut of uncooked cleaned of of salt and cut in dice. Add Add aa 1I lb,) ham cleaned in dice, good tablespoon tablespoon Ilour flour and and moisten moisten with stock. good with light light veal veal stock. (q.v.) and garni (q.v,) Add also aa bouquet bouquet garni and two curry Add also two teaspoons leaspoons curry powder. powder. 'After itit is sauce without 'After is cooked, cooked, boil bail down down the the sauce without thickening thickening itil too It should look like should look like a too much. much. 11 a pale pale espagrnle espagnole sauce, lightly coloured coloured with saffron.' Serve Serve with lightly with saffron.' with Indian Indian style rice. rice, (Mont-Bry's recipe). Chickm clru DE Chicken curry curry (Mont-Bry's recipe). CARI DE pouI.Er POULET 'Draw, chicken. Divide Divide each 'Draw, pluck pluck and and joint joint aa medium-sized medium-sized ehicken. joint joint into into 3 3 or or 44 pieces pleces (whur (when cutting cutting up up chicken joints joints be careful careful not not to to splinter splinter the the bones bones into into tiny tiny fragments). fragments). Cook Cook in in butter butter 2 2 chopped-up chopped-up onions, onions, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) ham ham cut small pieces, eut in in small pieces, and and 2 2 peeled peeled and and chopped chopped eating apples all seasoned seasoned with all with crushed crushed garlic, garlic, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, cinnamon, cinnamon, cardamom cardamom and and powdered powdered mace. mace, Add Add the chicken pieces. pieces, 'When 'When quite quite firm, firm, shake shake them them about about without without letting letting them colour colour too 100 much, mueh, and and sprinkle sprinkle them with with 2 teaspoons teaspoons curry curry powder. powder. Add Add 2 2 peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and crushed cru shed tomatoes and mix well. mixwelJ. 'Put 'Put in 2| 21 dl. dl. (scant (seant! pint, generous generous cup) cup) coconut coconut milk milk (or (or ] pint, almond almond milk). milk), Cook Cook very very gently gently in in a covered saucepan for for about about 35 35 minutes. minutes. l0 10 minutes minutes before before serving, add add I} dl. ft (t pint, pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream and and the the juice juice of of I1 lemon. lemon, Thicken Thicken this this sauce sauce to to the the desired desired consistency by by boiling boiIing down. down. 'Serve 'Serve the the chicken chicken with with rice rice cooked cooked as as follows: follows, 'Cook 'Cook 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz' oz., Lt cups) cups) rioe rice for for 15 15 minutes minutes in salt water, water, stirring stirring often. often, Drain Drain and and wash wash several times times in in cold cold water. wateT. Dry, Dry, in in the the oven oyen at at aa very very low low heat heat for for l5 15 minutes.' minutes.' Chicken Chickell curry curry (Creole (Creole cookery). cookery). cARr CARl DE DE pouLET POULET -- Joint Joint a medium-sized medium-sized chicken. chicken. Brown Brown the the pieces pieces very very lightly Iightly in in good good fat, fat, taking taking care care not not to to let let them them become become dry. dry, Add Add I1 finely finely chopped chopped onion onion and and simmer simmer very very slowly. slowly, The The onion onion must must not not be be allowed allowed to to tum turn yellow. yellow. Add Add 22 small small peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and chopped chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Stir Stir the the mixture. mixture, Leave Leave to to simmer sim mer for for 15 15

minutes. Add Add 22 teaspoons previously pounded pounded in teaspoons saffron, saffron, previously minutes, in aa mortaro wilh with aa sprig parsley, aa c10ve sprig of of Ihyme, thyme, aa sprig sprig of of parsley, clove of mortar. of garlic, and piece of ginger. Leave and aa piece ofstem Leave these these spices spices to garlic, stem ginger. to soak soak into the chicken before the chicken before moistening moistening the glass of the curry curry with with aa glass of into lukewarm. watcr, poured into water, poured pan aa little into the little atat aa time, the pan lukewarrn tirne. (see Simmer for for 22 hours hours and and serve Rice àd la serve with with Rice la créole uiole (see Simmer RrcE). RICE), Chicken roULARDE ÀA LA Crlssy. POULARDE h Cussy. ra CUSSY cussy - Braise Braise the Chic ken à la the chicken in in brown brown butter. garnish (see (see butter. Surround Surround with with aa Cussy Cussy garnish chicken GARNISHES). GARNISHES). juices diluted Pour the cooking juices the cooking port wine diluted with with port wine and and Rich Rl'c& Pour (see SA sauce (see SAUCE. Basic sauces) sauces) over over the chicken. Brown sauce UCE. Basic chicken. poULARDE À Chicken àil la la d'A1buférll, d'Albuf6ra. POULARDE A LA Chicken L,q, D'ALBUfÉRA D'Lrsurfu Stuff the chicken with the chicken with rice rice half-cooked half-cooked in in white Stuff white stock, stock, mixed with pieces of with small gras. Poach small pieces of trumes truffies and and foie mixed Poach in in foie gras, white stock. pastry cases stock. Surround Surround with with pastry cases filled filled with with small small white quenelles, cocks' chicken quenelles, cocks' kidneys, kidneys, slices of trumes and slices of chicken truffies and button mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with (see with d'Albuféra d'Albufira sauce sauce (see button SAUCE). Coat the chicken chicken with with d'Albuféra d'Albufdra sauce. SAUCE), poULARDE DEMI-DEUIL Chicken demi-deuil. demideuil. POULARDE DEMI-DEUTL - Poach Poach the the Chlcken chicken in in aa white white stock, stock. Surround Surround with with pastry cases cases filled with aa mixture mixture of of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and mushrooms bound with (se SAUCE). in thick chicken Velouté VeloutC sauce thick chicken sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put aa small small in cooked in truffie cooked in Madeira Madeira on pour on on each and pour each tartIet tartlet and on Irume (see SAUCE). Suprdme sauce (see SAUCE). Suprême Chicken demi-deuil demi-dail isis also also called called Poached chicken chicken LyonChicken

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powlnos DEMrDortr Chicken Demidolf Demidoff J. I. POULARDE Cook the Chicken DEMIDOFF - Cook chicken à la Matignon in aa covered dish in the d la the oven, oven. Surround with with artichoke artichoke bottoms garnished with with vegeSurround bottoms gamished pur6e. Put an on onion batter and fried, on table purée. ion ring, dipped in balter each artichoke, topped with aa slice of truffie. trume. juices with Mix the eooking cooking juices with Madeira and Rich brown Mix the Madeira and Rich bl'OWll (se SAUCE), SAUCE). Pour over the chicken, chicken. sauce (see Chicken Demidoff II. powlnDE Chlcken Demidolf n. POULARDE DEMTEoFF DEMIDOFF - Cook Cook the covered dish in the oven. dish in oven. When it it is chicken in in butter'in butter in aa covered three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 33 dl. dl. (| 1| cups) cups) mixed (1 pint, pint, It vegetable pur6e, and truffies. vegetable purée, mushrooms mushrooms and truffles. When When cooked garnish garnish with sliced truffies. trumes. Mix and thickened Mix the the cooking juices juices with with port port wine wine and brown chicken. brown veal stock, and pour over the chicken, Chicken à la la Derby. Derby. noULARDE POULARDE A À ra LA opnsy DERBY - Stuff the chicken with and mixed with truffies. with rice cooked in butter and trumes. Cook, covered, covered, in the oven. oven. Surround Surround with with large large trufres truffles cooked cooked in in port port wine, wine, and slices of saut6ed in butter. Mix the cooking of /ole foie gras sautéed cooking juices juices with v.'Ïth port port wine and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, and pour over the chicken. Chicken Chickell à la Doria. poULARDE POULARDE A À LA ooRrl DORIA - Poach Poach the chicken in in white white stock. Take it out of the the liquid, liquid, remove remove the barding barding and trussing string. Cut offthe off the breast breast fillets fille!s and and take out the the small bones bones from the interior interior of of the carcase. carcase. Fill Fil! the chicken with the the following fol!owing mixture: mixture' Bind Bind 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) each each of cocks' cocks' combs and and kidneys, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz.) oz.) button button mushrooms mushrooms and 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.) oz,) quartered quartered truffies trumes with with 33 dl. (| (t pint, pint, l{ Il cups) cups) very very thick thick chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Chill. ChilI. Fill chicken with with this this mixture, mixture, giving giving the the bird bird its its Fil! the the chicken original original shape. shape. Arrange Arrange the the breast breast fillets, filJets, cut eut into into fine fine strips, strips, on on top. top, Pour Pour very very thick thick Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SA UCE), over over the the chicken. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated Parmesan Parmesan and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen, Surround Sur round the the bird bird with with large large chicken chicken quenelles quenelles decorated decorated with wÙh truffies, truffles, medium-sized medium-sized trufres trumes cooked cooked in in champagne, champagne, fried fried cocks' combs, combs, and and large large mushrooms. mushrooms. Pour Pour into into the the bottom bottom of of the the dish dish a a few few tablespoons tablespoons Suprdme Suprême sauce sauce (se, (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). fminc6s Émincés of of Chicken. Chickell. frurxcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE voLArLLs VOLAILLE - Left-over Left-over

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CHICKEN chicken chicken (poached, (poached, braised braised or roasted), boned, and cut into thin thin slices. slices. Coat Coat with with sauce sauce and heat heat rvithout without boiling. Chicken Chic ken fillets. fiUets. FtLETs FILETS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Breasts Breasts of chicken removed removed when when raw raw and and cooked in.various in. various ways. ways. See See the recipes under Cdtelettes Côtelettes and SuprAmas Suprêmes below. recipes given given under Chickenfiletsmignons. Chicken filets mignons. FTLETS FILETS MrcNoNs MIGNONS DE DE vornnrrVOLAILLE - Long thin thin strips strips cut cut from from the the SuprAmes Suprêmes (see (see below) below) of poultry. These These filets, filets, encrusted encrusted with wi.th thin thin slices of of truffies or pickled pickled tongue, or arcs arcs and and placed placed on top top of of the tongue, are are formed formed into into rings rings or suprdmes, suprêmes, which which are are cooked cooked separately. separately. Chicken la financiOre. financière. poulARns POULARDE A À rA, LA rrx^lNcriinn FINANCIÈRE Chicken Ià la Braise Braise the the chicken. chicken. Surround Surround with with aa Financidre Financière garnish (see (see GARNTSHES). GARNISHES). Pour Pour Financibre Financière sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which has has been been added added some sorne of of the the juice juice in in which which the the chicken chicken was was cooked, cooked, over over the the bird. bird. Chickm FORCEMEA T. Chicken forcemeat forcemeat -- See See FORCEMEAT. Chicken Chicken fricass6efricassée- See See FRICASSEE. FRICASSÉE. Chicken Chicken fricassee fricassée Ià la la minute minute @lumerey's (plurnerey's recipe). recipe). FRrcAsFRICASsfE SÉE DE DE pouLET.i POULET À r,c, LA MrNurE MINUTE -'Cut - 'Cut up up two two chickens, chickens, put put them them in in aa saucepan saucepan with with 175 175 g.6 g. (6 oz., oz.,.t cup) melted melted butter, butter, and and toss toss tcup) them them so so that that they they become become firm firm without without colouring. colouring. Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, ftour, season season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and add add as as much much water water as as will will make make aa slightly slightly thickened thickened sauce. sauce. Add Add 66 small small blanched blanched onions, onions, and and aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook on on aa good good heat, heat, taking taking care care that that the the chicken chicken does does not not stick stick and and that that the the sauce sauce is is boiled boiled down down little 25 minutes little by by little. little. At At the the end end of of25 minutes test test I1of ofthe the legs legs to to see see ififit it isis cooked. cooked. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) mushrooms, mushrooms, remove remove grease, grease, bind bind the the sauce sauce with with four four beaten beaten egg egg yolks, yolks, sprinkle sprinkle with with lemon lemonjuice.' juice.' Chicken FRITOT DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Entrie Entrée prepared prepared with with Chicken fritot. fritot. rruror slices of cooked cooked chicken chicken marinated marinated in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and slices of herbs, herbs, dipped dipped in in batter batter and and fried fried in in deep deep fat fat or or oil. oiL (See (See also also FRTTTERS.) FRITTERS.) Chicken Chicken galantine galantine -- See See GALANTINE. GALANTINE. Chickcn Chicken giblets. giblets. ABArrs ABATIS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Poultry Poultry giblets giblets are are composed composed of of wingtips, wingtips, neck, neck, gszzard, gizzard, liver, liver, and and heart. heart. (See GIBLETS.) (See GIBLETS.) Chicken iàla la Godard. Godard. poULARDE POULARDE AÀ rn LA coolno GODARD -- Braise Braise the the Chicken chicken. Surround Surround with with Godard Godard garnish garnish (see (see GARNISH). GARNISH). chicken. Pour Pour over over the the chicken chicken Godard Godard sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sorne of ofthe the cooking cooking juices juices have have been been added. added. some

Grilled chicken chicken is served with a highly seasoned seasoned sauce sauoe such as Diable, Mustard, Biarnaise, SAUCE). Béarnaise, etc. (see SAUCE). Gdltd diable. pouI.Er cnnrf ÀA r,l Grilled chicken àil la diable. POULET GRILLÉ LA DIABLE orlsrr -

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Truss Truss the chicken chicken as for boiling boiling and split it through through the back. Flatten slightly, season pepper, spread season with salt salt and and pepper, spread with butter, half-cook in the oyen. butter, and half-cook oven. Smear Smear the the chicken with a a little little mustard mus tard to which sorne to which some cayenne cayenne has been added. added. Coat with fresh fresh breadcrumbs and sprinkle cooking under aa gentle sprinkle with melted butter. butter. Finish cooking

grill, letting it colour well. weil. Garnish Garnish with gherkins and half-slices of of lemon, and serve wirJr SAUCE). with Diable sauce sauce (see SAUCE).

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Chicken GrimoddeJa-Reyniire Grimod-de-Ia-Reynière - See below, Chicken See below, Chicken àd la Nantua Nantua III. JAt\fBON DE pouLET POULET - Name given in France Chicken ham. harn. leMsor.r to the thigh thigh of a a large large chicken, chicken, which is is boned, boned, stuffed, to ofa ham and braised braised in Madeira. Madeira. trussed in the shape of trussed a ham HACHIS DE voLArLrE VOLAILLE - Made with left-over left-over Chicken hash. rHcnrs poultry poultry (poached or braised), boned and chopped or cut in very small dice. (See HASH.) HASH.) Hungarian chicken. chic ken. roULARDE POULARDE A À LA noNcnorsn HONGROISE - Stuff Hungarian Stuff the three-quarters cooked and seasoned seasoned with with rice three-quarters chicken with paprika. paprika. covered with butter, butter, in the the oven. oyen. Dilute the the pan Cook, covered juices juices with with white white wine wine and and pour pour over over the chicken. Serve Serve with SAUCE). Hungarian sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). Hungariut Chicken ià I'imp6riale. l'impériale. eoULARDE POULARDE IA r'nrpfnrlrn L'IMPÉRIALE - Stuffthe Stuff the Chicken chicken with with aa mixture mixture of 150 g. (5 oz.) oz.) lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, chicken 100 g. g. (4 oz.) button button mushrooms, 3 medium-sized truffies 100 shaped to to look look like like olives, olives, bound bound with with 22 dl. $ (1 pint, pin t, scant cup) shaped mushroom pur6e purée and and 22 dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup) thick thick chicken mushroom Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Cook, Cook, covered, in in the the oven oyen VeloutC without allowing allowing itit to to colour. colour. without Surround with with pastry pastry cases filled with with small pieces of offoie joie Surround gras,large gras, large mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in butter butter and garnished garni shed with asparagus tips, tips, and and small small artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms simmered asparagus and filled filled with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. gently in in butter butter and gently Coat lightly lightly with with aa sauce, sauce, using using the the cooking cooking juices juices as as for Coat Chicken hà la la Chantilly. Chantilly. Chickm l'indienne. poULARDE POULARDE A À l'rNotnxNe L'INDIENNE -- Poach Poach the the Chic ken Ià I'indienne. Chicken chicken in in white white stock, stock, or or cook cook it, it, covered, covered, in in the the oven oyen with with chicken butter. butter. Pour Curry Curry sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) over it, and serve serve with with Polurr Rice dà I'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). Rice Cold chicken chicken Isabelle Isabelle (M. (M. Apollon Apollon Caillat's CaiUat's recipe). recipe). Cold CHAUD-FROID DE DE poULARDE POULARDE rsABELrr ISABELLE - Cut the the chicken chicken in cHAUD-FRoID pieces, soak soak in in cold cold water, water, drain drain and and put put in in aa shallow shallow saut6 sauté pieces, pan. Pour Pour over over itit 33 dl. dL (+ (t pint, pint, li cups) cups) concentrated concentrated veal veal pan. mushroom essence, essence, and and cook. cook. stock, flavoured ftavoured with with mushroom stock, Drain the the bird. bird. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking juices juices and and use use them them to to Drain moisten aa roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) made made with with 75 75 E. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., scant scant +t cupl cup:, moisten butter and and the the same same quantity quantity of of flour, ftour, cooked cooked together. together. Add Add butter teaspoon paprika. paprika. Cook, Cook, and and skim. skim. Bind Bind the the sauce sauce with with 22 I1 teaspoon egg yolks yolks beaten beaten up up in in aa little little cream. cream. Cook Cook slowly, slowly, and and strain strain egg over the the pieces pieces ofchicken, of chicken, which which have have been been returnod returned to to the the over shallow pan. pan. Add Add sweet sweet pimentos pimentos cut cut in in julienne julienne strips. strips. shallow Simmer for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Simmer To serve, serve, cover coyer the the chicken chicken pieces pieces completely completely with with the the To sauce. When When quite quite cold, cold, decorate decorate with with small small pieces pieces of oftruffies sauce. truffies and sweet sweet pimentos. pimentos. and Coat completely completely with with aa thin thin layer layer ofjelly, of jelly, which which should should be be Coat and almost almost colourless. colourJess. c1ear and clear Chicken A à I'ivoire. l'ivoire. pouLARDE POULARDE A À I'rvonr L'IVOIRE - Poach Poach the the Chicken chicken in in white white stock, stock, surround surround with with 20 20 mushroom mushroom heads heads chicken and 20 chicken chicken quenelles. quenelles. Porx Pour SuprAme Suprême s(ace sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and20 over the the bird. bird. over Chickenjambalaya (Indiancookery). cookery). JAMBALATA JAMBALAIA DE DE pouLET POULET jambalaya (Indian Chicken Pilafmade made from from rice rice cooked cooked dà l'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). -- Pilaf

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GriUedchicken. chicken.pouLAR"DE POULARDEcnrrrfp GRILLÉE-- Cut Cut the thechicken chicken open open Grilld

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down the the back, back, push push the the ends ends of ofthe the legs legs into into the the opening, opening, down and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Brown Brown on on ftatten slightly, slightly, and flatten both sides sides in in butter, butter, cover co ver both both sides sides with with fresh fresh breadbreadboth

crumbs and and grill grill under under gentle gentle heat. heat. The The chicken chicken can can also also be be crumbs dividedinto intojoints jointsas as for for SautCed Sautéedchicken chicken (see (seebelow). below). divided 225 225

CHICKEN CHICKEN Dice coarsely 150 J 50 g. (5 oz.) raw, lean Jean ham. Saut6 Sauté in butter

t'rstnecoN Chicken with tarragon tarragon in jelly. jelly. roULARDE POULARDE A À L'ESTRAGON

(9 oz.) in in a a heavy pan. pan. When When almost cooked, add add 250 250 g. g. (9

in a cnr6E - Truss the chicken as DANs DANS sA SA GELÉE as for for boiling, put put in

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with white and coyer cover with stock. Add saucepan and saucepan white stock. Add aa generous quantity of tarragon. quantity tarragon. liquid. Leave to cool cool in Cook slowly sJowly for for I1 hour. hour. Leave in its its own Jiquid. carefully. Drain, take off the trussing string and wipe carefully. all grease has been Reheat cooking liquor, from which ail Reheat the cooking quantity of of Add to required quantity and strain. removed, and strain. Add the required to it it the removed, gelatine, soaked in cold water, and heat slightly. slightly. g. lukewarm, into a saucepan in which 100 g. Pour this, when lukewarm, (4 oz.) and aa handful lean beef, egg white white and handful of oz.) minced (4 minced Jean beef, 1I egg been whisked together. Cook chopped tarragon leaves have been whisking lightly. over aa good heat for aa moment, whisking it cornes comes to the boil, remove remove the the saucepan to aa. As soon as it slowly for 25 minutes. very low heat and cook sJowly jelly through adding, when it has cooled, Strain the jelly through a cloth, adding, (6 tablespoons, When nearly scant t* cup) cup) Madeira. Madeira. When dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1I dl. jelly, and and when it it has cold, half-fill a dish with sorne some of this jelly, cold, on top. set put the chicken on leaves of with broad of tarragon, tarragon, blanched, Decorate with broad leaves Decorate jelly. in half-set jelly. and dipped dipped one by one one in trimmed, drained, drained, and one by trimmed, pattern on in aa pattern breast of of the Arrange these on the the breast these leaves Arrange leaves in of the the cover the chicken chicken with the rest of chicken. Three-quarters coyer jelly. jelly. until ready ready to ice or in in the the refrigerator refrigerator untiJ the dish dish on on ice Place the serve. pout,Er KATOFF KAToFF -- Grill chicken (split Katoff. POULET Grill aa chicken Chicken Katoff. flattened) as as for for Grilled chicken àd the back back and lightly ftattened) down the la diable. la (see POT POTATOES), Duchess potato (see foundationof Set it on a foundation of Duchess ATOES), and browned in in the oven. Surround with egg and the oyen. brushed with egg brushed has been veal stock to which butter has been added. thickened brown veaJ thickened cRoMnseun DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Prepared kromeskies. CROMESQUIS Chicken kromeskies. caul (or pork fat), with aa croquette mixture, mixture, wrapped in pig's cauJ in batter and fried. (See CROQUETTES.) dipped in noULARDE LAMBERTYE -- Poach Poach aa fat Chicken Lambertye. POULARDE Allow itit to for boiling, stock. Allow in white chicken stock. boiling, in hen, trussed for hen, completely in in its own liquid. cool compJetely and remove it. remove it. round the circular incision incision round the breast and Make aa circular (see FOIE GRAS), gras mousse GRAS), Foie gras inside with Fill the with aa Foie mousse (see the inside Fill Coat the shape the chicken. chicken. Coat re-form the the top top to to re-form shape of the rounding the (see SAUCE). IAhirc chaud-froid SAUCE). with White chaud-froid sauce (see the chicken chicken legs with the cut in in slices, slices, Place over over the the chicken chicken breasts cut the mousse the Place and decorated decorated with truffles truffies and rounds coated with the sauce and jelly. glazed with jelly. tongue glazed of tongue rice. Garnish Garnish Serve on cro0tons of bread, bread, or or on on aa bed bed of rice. on croûtons Serve jelly. jelly shapes chopped jelly. shapes or or chopped with jelly poulARDE À A LA LA LANGUEDOLANGUEEola languedocienne. POULARDE Chicken Chic ken ài la with butter. oven with covered, in in the cTENNE -- Cook the the chicken, covered, the oyen CIENNE la languedowith tomatoes and surround Set on on aa dish dish and surround with tomatoes àd la Set lightly fried fried in in oil. oil. and aubergines cut cut in in slices slices and and Jightly cienne and cienne juices with white wine, wine, season with aa season with the cooking juices Dilute the garlic, and veal and add add thickened clove of brown veal crushed clove of garlic, thickened brown crushed gravy. Pour with chopped chicken and and sprinkle chopped sprinkle with Pour over over the gravy. the chicken parsley. pouLETs - Chicken livers are FoIEs DE DE POULETS are used used livers. FOIES Chicken Chicken Iivers. - Chicken livers garnish, and They may, may, however, and for for forcemeat. forcemeat. They however, as aa garnish, mostly as grilled on in with mushrooms, mushrooms, in skewers, sautéed, be served served grilled saut6ed, with on skewers, be phtis. in terrines and pâtés. and risottos, and and used used in terrines and pilafs and (cold). PAIN FRoID -- Prepare Prepare loaf (cold). IAIN DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE FROID Chicken Chicken loaf (see below) for and decorate decorate as as for mousse mixture mixture (see cold cold Chicken Chicken mousse below) and (game, foie gras, fish, Coat aa all other fish, shellfish). shellfish). Coat ail other cold cold loaves (game, foie gras, jelly and pieces of hardand decorate decorate with with pieces of truffles, truffies, hardmould with with jelly mould boiled eggs, eggs, white white pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. boiled (hot). PAIN loaf (hot). IAIN DE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE CHAUD cHAUD -- Prepare Prepare aa Chicken Chicken loaf (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mousseline forcemeat Mousseline for cemeat (see and fiJ] with the the Butter aa mould mould with with aa hole hole in in the middle and fill with Butter the middle (] inch) Poach within 1I cm. cm. (t inch) of of the the top. top. Poach above forcemeat forcemeat to to within above

cooked diced diced chicken. g. (7 oz., ll oz., It Saut6 Sauté and season with red red pepper. pepper. Add 200 g. separately. cups) Rice Rice dà l'indienne (see RICE) cooked separately. A rA TEnTNE À Jellied POULARDE sN EN TERRINE LÀ Jellied chicken in casserole. poULARDE fowl. Stuff with a forcemeat made of cnlEr GELÉE - Bone Bone a plump plumpfowl. veal, fresh pork fat and àgratinforcemeat, d gratinforcemeat,the equal parts of ofveal, the equal whole bound with with two eggs, eggs, and and flavoured ftavoured whoJe well seasoned, bound with wi th brandy brandy and essence of of truffies. truffles. of truffies raw foie gras studded with 4 quarters of Put half half a a raw truffles and re-form the shape of the on the the forcemeat, and the shape the chicken. on of fat bard with with aa slice slice of Truss as Truss as for for boiling, boiling, bard fat bacon, bacon, add oven. Remove Madeira, and and cook, covered, in the oyen. Remove from the Madeira, the trussing cool. Dilute the dish and cool. the pan juices. juices. Remove the dish and chicken, and put it in an earthenwipe the chicken, string and barding, wipe Cover completely with ware dish on a base of well-set weil-set jelly. jeJJy. Coyer jelly have been added. jelly to which the diluted cooking juices have Leave to chill chili for at least 12 hours. AU CHAMcHAMwith champagne. champagne. PoULARDE POULARDE AU Jellied Jellied chicken chicken with pAcNE nN prepared weil well in This dish be prepared PAGNE EN GELÉE dish should should be cnr6u -- This ad vance. advance. gras, trimmed with aa whole foie trimmed and foie gras, Stuff a chicken Stuff a chicken with which has has been been soaked in brandy and studded truffles, wlllch studded with truffies, spices, few minutes. and cooked cooked in butter for aa few spices, and the cooking oven in in the in butter. butter. Dilute the Cook, covered, in the oyen Cook, covered, (scant pint, pint,2f, cups) dry champagne. champagne. Boil with 5 dl. dl. (scant juices with 2i cups) (see (scant pint, pint, 2i 2l cups) Add 55 dl. cups) Chicken jelly down. jelly (see down. Add dl. (scant JELL Y). Boil for aa few moments. Strain. JELLY). cover with earthenware dish and coyer Put the chicken in a large earthenware jelly is quite set scrape jelly. Cool completely. When Wh en the jelly the jelly. bird over over 2 off any fat that sticks to the surface, and wipe the bird offany hot water. or or 3 times with a cloth wrung out in very hot flavoured with different wines. Jellied be ftavoured Jellied chicken may be PoULARDE AU AU FOIE FoIE Jellied chicken with foie gras (canned). POULARDE chickm in casserole. casserole. GRAS as for lellied Jellied chicken re GELÉE csrEE -- Prepare Prepare as cns ÀA LA it breast and wings. Put it Drain, remove the strings and the trussing strings just big hold the to hold large tin big enough enough to downwards into aa large tin just downwards into Solder the chicken. Coyer the clarified cooking liquor. Solder Cover with the into aa the tin tin into with solder. solder. Put the tin, on the the top with tin, make aa mark on boil and to the the boil pot and and coyer cover completely with water. Bring to for 1I hour. continue to to boil, without interruption, for keeping it upside down so so Drain the tin and leave to cool, keeping jelly and goes to fat goes to the is in jelly and the the fat that the breast of chicken is the breast bottom of the tin.

jelly (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Chicken Chicken witb with tarragon tarragon in in jelly

226 226

CHICKEN ufnurroNs DE Chicken m6daillons médaiUons ài I'alg6rienne. MÉDAILLONS DE voI-VOLand breadcrumbs in egg egg and - Coat in and sauté mddaillons made with chopped chicken and saut6 in butter. médaillons butter. mddaillon on top of I tomato tomato which has been grilled Set each médaillon and stuffed rice pilaf mixed with diced diced sweet peppers. and stuffed with rice SAUCE). Surround with light Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Beauharnais. MÉDAILLONS u6oltrroNs DE VoLATLLE Crncken VOLAILLE Chicken m6daillons Beauharnais. BEAUHARNAn -- Season midaillons, cut from the breasts, BEAUHARNAIS Season the médaillons, artichoke saut6 in butter. Place Place each eachmidaillon small artichoke médaillon on a smaU and sauté garnished with and garnished bottom cooked in in butter and with 1I tablespoon Beauharnais and topped with a slice of sauce (see SAUCE), and Beauharnais sauce gravy mixed Surround with with thickened brown veal veal gravy truffie. trufle. Surround with butter. breast. MÉDAILLONS lmnlnroNs Chicken médaillons m6dqillore eut cut from from the the breast. Chicken DE VOLAILLE n6rmlr,rs SUR DÉTAILLÉS FILETS DE the breasts suR FTLETs voLATLLE -- Remove the them into regular slices. Flatten from a roasting chicken. Cut them these these lightly and trim into rounds or ovals. Cook according to the recipe, following the instructions instructions given under Chicken (see below). citelettes and and Suprêmes of chicken (see côtelettes SuprAmes of be left with with the the médaillons. midaillons. They The filets mignons may be may also be cooked separately, separately, as for Suprêmes SuprAmes of of chicken, and served served on top of the médaillons. midaillons. The legs, legs, wings and and carcases carcases of the chickens chickens used used for the midaillons can can be used up by following the recipes given médaillons be used the recipes under Chicken ballottines (see BALLOTTINES). Chopped cbicken chicken médaiIJons. m6daillons. MÉDAILLONS uEomroxs EN EN CHAIR cHArR DE Cbopped voLAILLE H,c,cIfiE -- Bone the breasts of a a roasting chicken. VOLAILLE HACHÉE g. (2 oz., Chop them, adding 50 g. oz., J1 cup) breadcrumbs soaked in milk and squeezed out, and 50 fi g.g.Q oz., iI cup) butter. Add to the mixture 2 tablespoons tablespoons) fresh cream, and and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) season with salt, pepper and nutmeg. Shape midaillons from the mixture, coat coat with with egg and Shape the mixture, and sauté flour, and or dredge dredge with with flour, saut6 in in clarified breadcrumbs, or butter. ofthe the bird can be used to The carcase, neck, head and feet of uce to to accompany prepare chicken stock or soup, soup, or in aa sa sauce midaillons. the médaillons. CNcken médaiUons m6daillons Dunan. Dunan. MÉDAILLONS ufo.c.IrroNs DE VoLATLLE Chicken DE VOLAILLE DUNAN -- Make médaillons midaillons of chopped chopped chicken mixed with a (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) lean ham and mushrooms. Coat in egg and salpicon of Jean and sauté breadcrumbs and saut6 in butter. Set in and fi]led filled with Set in tartlets with a a salpicon of tartlets baked baked blind blind and truffies àd la crème. crDme. Serve with Madeira sauce (see SAUCE). voLATLLE Chicken m6daillom A l'écarlate. I'ecarlate. MÉDAILLONS woenrous DE DE VOLAILLE Cbicken médaillons à A L'ÉCARLATE r'6c,c.ntA.rs -- Season midaillons eut cut from from the suprAmes À Season médaillons the suprêmes and poach in in white stock. Set in in aa dish dish in in the form of a and the forro stock. Set alternating turban, al tongue heated terna ting them with slices of pickled tongue in white stock. stock. Pour into into the of the dish aa few few tablespoons Pour bottom of the dish the bottom Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). Allemande SAUCE). vol'6gyptienne. MÉDAILLONS ufourroNls DE DE VOChicken Chicken médaiUons medaillons à i l'égyptienne. paprika A r'fcvprrrNNe midaillons wi with L'ÉGYPTIENNE -- Season médaillons th pa prika and LAILLE À sauté butter. saut6 in butter. Arrange in form of aa turban, in the the forro turban, alternating them with middle aubergines sautéed rounds of aubergines saut6ed in butter. Garnish the middle Tomato sauce (see of the dish with pilaf r1ce. rice. Surround with Tomalo SAUCE) to which has been added the cookingjuices cooking juices diluted with white wine. u6oxrroNs DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Cbicken Chicken médaiUons m6daillorc Fédora. F6dora. MÉDAILLONS reooRA medaillons and in white FÉDORA -- Season Season the the médaillons and poach them them in Garnish with crottons of bread fried in butter. Garnish stock. Set on croûtons cut into uniform pieces and and stewed stewed in into uniforro in butter. butter. cucumbers cut chicken Coat with the cooking juices diluted with cream and chic ken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velouté Chicken médaillons rr,rEo.,ltrroNs DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE m6daillons Grignan. Chicken Grignan. MÉDAILLONS cRIGNAN -- Make médaillons mddaillons from from chopped chicken meat. GRIGNAN Sprinkle with flour, dip in beaten egg, egg, and coyer cover with finely chopped truffies. truffles. Cook in butter.

loaf in in the oyen the Joaf oven in a bain-marie (q.v.) for 45 minutes to 1J depending on the size of the mould. hour, depending loaf is leave it it to for aa few When the the loaf cooked, leave to settle settle for is cooked, When

llur l,

L'ALGÉRIENNE AILLE À t'LLcfRtENNr

moments Surround with out. Surround moments before turning out. with the the garnish before turning appropriate to the garnish. chosen and pour over it the sauce appropriate The following garnishes and and sauces are suitable for hot sauces are The (peas) and mushchicken loaves: and Cream Crearn sauce; sauce: mushchicken loaves: Clamart (peas) (salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of rooms rooms and and Allemande sauce; sauce; Hongroise (salpicon groups) and and Sauce mushrooms and and on onions separate groups) mushrooms ions in in separate hongroise; Manse/et (coarsely diced Monselet (coarsely and hearts and diced artichoke artichoke hearts and Suprême SuprAme sauce; Montpensier truffies in separate groups) and (asparagus tips in butter, slivers and, Allemande slivers of truffies) (asparagus truffies) and Allemande and Nantua sauce; Nantua (crayfish tails, slivers truffies) and slivers of truffies) Veloutd sauce and Velouté sauce cooked cooked with cream. sauce; asparagus tips and (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE.) eoULARDE À A LA lyonnaise or or demi-deuil. demi-deuil. POULARDE Chic ken ài la Chicken la lyonnaise LYONNAISE, DITE DITE DEMI-DEUIL -_ Stuff StUff the ChiCKCN with With fine fiNC LYONNAISE, thc chicken and poach in white white chicken stock. Serve truffied truffied forcemeat and chicken surrounded with vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in the the surrounded with the chicken accompanied by and accompanied chicken broth, and by the strained poaching liquor. Iiquor. cooking chicken is the great speciality of the This way of cooking city of Lyons and and is known as as Poularde Poularde de Madame Filloux. Filiaux. eoULARDE Chicken Maeterlinck Maeterlinck (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). POULARDE MAETERLTNcT -- Stuff mixture of Stuffaa chicken with a chopped-up mixture MAETERLINCK and kidneys, lambs' sweetbreads, truffies and cocks' combs and with very very thick chicken Velouté Velouti sauce mushrooms, bound bound with thick chicken SAUCE) and fresh cream. Truss the chicken and wrap it (see SAUCE) in a bard of bacon butter, bacon fat. Put the bird in a deep pot with butter, fresh bacon rind, rind, sliced canots carrots and sliced sliced onions. strips of fresh 45 minutes. salt. Cook in the oyen. oven, covered, covered, for 45 Season with salt. remove the trussing string. Put it in an Drain the bird and remove and surround with 6 peeled truffies earthenware casserole and surround with seasoned pepper and nutmeg, and 6 small seasoned with salt, pepper small slices of juices with heated in the cooking cooking juices foie gras heated in butter. Dilute the foie (f pint, and 4 dl. 2] dl. (scant tI pint, generous cup) sherry and dl. G 2t scant 2 cups) thickened and strained brown meat gravy. Add (| cup) brandy and set alight. Seal the lid of of the 4 tablespoons tablespoons
CHICKEN Atrx cI{AMwith mushrooms (white). IoULARDE Chicken with POULARDE AUX CHAMpIGNoIls PIGNONS -- As for Chicken à I'allemande. l'allemande. Surround with large Chicken d

Arrange on artichoke artichoke bottoms Arrange bottoms cooked in butter. Garnish Gamish with a ragoût ragofrt of Chicken QUENELLES), and Chickm quenelles (see QUENELLES),

cocks'combs wth Allemande cocks' combs and kidneys, bound with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chicken médaillons mddaillons à la mantourne. MfDAILLoNs Chicken la mantouane. MÉDAILLONS DE DE voLAILLE A LA rl ulNrounNe VOLAILLE À MANTOUANE -- Season mCdaillons médaillons cut from the and coat them rir milanaise (with egg and breadsuprdmes à Ia la milanaise suprêmes and Saut6 in butter. crumbs mixed with grated Parmesan). Parmesan). Sauté butter. Set in tartlets which have been been baked baked blind, blind, each each filled with macaroni macaroni bound with Parmesan, Parmesan, to which aa julienne of lean ham added. Put ham and and pickled pickled tongue tongue has has been been added. Put a a slice slice of trufre midaillon. truffle on top of of each médaillon. MÉDAILLONS DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE médaillons à la turque. Chicken m6daillore turque. rrafo,ur,roNs A runeus -- Season mddaillons with paprika, and saut6 À r.r LA TURQUE sauté in Season médaillons Rice pilaf pilaf (see PILAF). Coat with the butter. Set on top of of Rice cooking diluted with cooking juices juices diluted with white wine, and tomatowhite wine, and tomatoflavoured veal gravy. Am Chicken milanaise I. pourmor POULARDE À LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE -- Stuff Chicken tà la milanaise the chicken chicken with Macaroni Macaroni dà Ia la milanarbe milanaise (see MACARONI). MACARONI). Cook, covered, covered, in the oven oyen in butter. butter. Cook, Dilute the cooking cooking juices with white wine and and thickened veal gravy to which tomato pur6e purée has been added, and pour over the chicken.

without allowing them to colour. col our. Pour mushrooms cooked without

(se, SAUCE) over the chicken. Allemande sauce sauce (see Allemande m NlNtul Nantua L I. pourenps POULARDE A À LA NANTUA -- Poach Poach the Chicken Chlcken Ià la Nantun

I

quenelles made of chicken in white stock. stock. Surround Surround with quenelles (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) to Chicken forcemeat (see to which which Shrimp Chickm forcemeat BUTTER) has been butter (see BUTTER) been added, and with boat-shaped pastry pastry shells shells filled with shrimps in iVcntua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see filled with shrimps in SAUCE). Plaoe Place on each boat a slice of truffie. Pour over the of trufre. (see SAUCE) finished with shrimp shrimp chicken Suprême SuprAme sauce (see ~ttcr. . butter. rn Nfi''rrul Chicken la Nantus Nantua n. POULARDE A À LA NANTUA -- Stuff the II. pour.,Ros Stuffthe Chicken Ià ta purée of shrimps mixed mixed with a a very very thick chicken with aa pur6e Veloutd sauce chicken Velouté .sauce (see SAUCE). Poach in white stock. SAUCE). Poach it Suprême sauce (se, (see SAUCE) frnished fini shed with Pour over over it Suprdme sauce BUTTER). Add a few pieces of trufre Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). truffle to purée. the shrimp shrimp pur6e. pouunor A m. POULARDE À m LA NANTUA -- Poach Poach Chicken àI la Nantua III. breast fillets and stuff the chicken, drain, cut off the breast stuff it in the as for Chicken àd la Doria, Doria, replacing the mixture same way as that recipe recipe with puree purée of shrimps mixed with very used in that Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). thick chicken Velouté SAUCE). Re-shape the the chicken, chicken, placing placing the the breast fillets, in strips, fillets, cut in SAUCE) over on top. top. Pour Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) over the on Pour Allemande Parmesan and brown the top. chicken. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Parmesan Serve Suprême sauce sauce (se,e (see SAUCE), finished fini shed with with SuprAme Serve with BUTTER). Shrimp butter (see BUTTER). Shrimp Prepared in this way the chicken chicken is also known known as Chicken Chicken Prepared r imo d- de - la- Re yniCr e. Grimod-de-la-Reynière. G Chicken Aà la N6va. Néva. poULARDE POULARDE AÀ rl LA r$6vl NÉvA -- Stuff Stuff the chicken Chicken FORCEMEAT) to which with a fine Chickenforcemeat Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) Truss as raw foie gras and diced truffies. truffles. Truss been added sorne has been some raw/oie poach in chicken stock. Allow AJlow it to cool and for boiling, and poach white when the chicken is quite cold, wipe it and coat with white Chaud-froid sauce (se, (see SAUCE) prepared with some sorne of the Chaud-froid with jelly jelly and allow to set firmly. chicken broth. Glaze with on a a bed bed of rice, rice, on on a a slice slice of Set the chicken chicken either on Set the buttered bread, bread, or or directly directly onto onto the the plate. plate. Serve Serve with buttered (the salad salad rounded rounded into into a vegetable salad salad in in mayonnaise (the vegetable dome and decorated decorated with truffies). truffles). Garnistr Gamish with with jelly jelly shapes. shapes. dome la NCva Néva can also be served in the same way as Chicken à h Chicken d Chicken Lambertye. niçoise I. pounor POULARDE A À rl LA mgonn NIÇOISE -- Cook the Chicken Ià la nigoise covered, in butter, butter, in the oven. oyen. Serve Serve surrounded by chicken, covered, quartered artichokes artichokes which have have been simmered in butter, butter, braised courgettes courgettes (zucchinis), small small new potatoes potatoes cooked in braised butter, and a few black olives. olives. butter, cooking juices with white wine, season season with a Dilute the cooking crushed clove clove of of garlic, garlic, thicken thicken with with brown brown veal veal gravy crushed flavoured with tomato pur6e, purée, and and pour pour over over the the chicken. flavoured Sprinkle with chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle Chicken Ià la nigoise niçoise II. pour.c*Dr POULARDE A À r,r LA NIgoIsu NIÇOISE -- Cook Cook the Chicken in the oven, oyen, covered. covered. Arrange on a a dish chicken in butter in have been been slowly cooked in in butter, butter, with tomatoes which have with courgettes tossed tossed in oil, new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in butter, butter, diced courgettes and black black olives. olives. Pour the the cooking juices, juices, prepared prepared as as above, above, over over the Pour chicken, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped tarragon. tarragon. with noodles. noodles. poULARDE POULARDE AUx AUX NoLJILLES NOUILLES - Stuff Chicken with noodles half-cooked half-cooked in salt salt water, drained, the chicken with noodles dressed with butter butter and and grated grated cheese. Cook, covered covered in and dressed butter in the oven. oyen. Dilute the pan juices juices with white wine, thicken with brown brown Dilute flavoured with tomato pur6e, purée, and pour over the veal gravy flavoured chicken. POULARDE Ar.x AUX HUiTRES HUÎTRES -- Poach the Chicken with with oysters. oysters. IoULARDE Chicken Surround with oysters poached in stock. Surround chicken in white stock.

i

Chicken Chicken dà la milanaise

Chicken Ià la la milanaise II. pour.lnon POULARDE A À LA LA MTLANATSE MILANAISE Stuff the the chicken chicken with with a a mixture of sliced sliced lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, ham, mushrooms and trufles, truffles, bound breads, tongue, lean ham, with with brown brown sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Braise Braise the chicken. Surround with timbales Surround timbales of Macaroni Macaroni d à Ia la milanalse milanaise (made (made in dariole moulds). Dilute the cooking cooking juices with Madeira Madeira and Rich brown brown sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE) flavoured with tomato, tomato, and pour over the chicken. Chicken mousse mousse and mousseline$ mousselines. MoussE MOUSSE ET MoussELrNEs MOUSSELINES DE DE voLAILLE vOLAILLE -- EntrCe, Entrée, cold or hot, prepared with with Chicken Chicken mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FO RCEMEA T). mousseline forcemeat Chicken Poach the chicken chic ken in Chicken with mousseline forcemeat forcemeat -- Poach white drain and cut offthe off the breast fillets as for Chicken Chicken white stock, drain la Doria. ità h Fill the inside of the bird with Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), with the addition of one-third of puree purée of Arrange this stuffing in layers, layers, alternating alternating with the foie gras. Arrange pieces pieces of of breast fillets. Round Round off off the top of the forcemeat to grve of the chicken. Cook Cook in a slow oven, oyen, setting give it the shape of tray containing containing hot water, water. dish in a tray the dish Surround Surround with wi th one one of of the the garnishes gamishes recommended for chicken poached poached in a white stock. (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Chicken with mushrooms mushrooms @rown). (brown). IoULARDE POULARDE Aux AUX cHAMCHAMClricken pIGNoNs PIGNONS - Cook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered, in in the the oven oyen with butter. l0 10 minutes before the end end of the cooking time add large mushrooms. When When cooked dilute di lute the pan juices with white wine and Rich Rich brown sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and pour wine and over the chicken.

n.

n.

228

CHICKEN CHICKEN butter butter mixed mixed wittl with 44 tablespoons tablespoons G (t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy over over the the dish. dish. Cook the rice and voLAILLE Chicken pilaf. pilaf. nrr,ln PILAF DE DE VOLAILLE -- Cook the ricc and arrange arrangeitit inin aaborder border on on aa dish. dish. Fill Fili the the middle middle with with chicken chicken prepared inin the the following following manner: manner: -prepared with pieces. Season Cut Cut the thechicken chickeninto into small small uniform unifonn pieces. Season wjth salt salt and in butter pepper, saut6 and and sauté in butter and drain. drain. Dilute the thepan juices with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant * cup) white whitewine. wine. Add 3 dl. dl. (|(, pint, pint, l|Hcups) cups) brown brown veal veal stock and I tablespoon tab1espoon tomato tomato pur6e. purée. Boil Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Strain Strain the the pan and simmer saut6 in the chicken Replace the sauce. sauce. Replace the chicken in the sauté pan and simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. A u poroNAIsE Stuff a Chicken Chlckell Ià la la polonaise. polonaise. PouLEr POULET À LA POLONAISE -- Stuff a chicken forcemeat (see chicken with with dà gratin gratinforcemeal (sec FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed soaked has been that little bread with a with a little bread that has been soaked and and squeezed squeezed out, out, and and :hopped parsley. parsley. Truss Truss as as for for boiling. Brown Brown quickly quickly in in very and casserole in an earthenware bird the Put hot buttei. Put the bird in an casserole finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Take Take off off the the trussing strings and and squeeze squeeze over over the the chicken chicken aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice. Sprinkle with with browned browned butter butter in in which whicb some sorne fine fine breadcrumbs have been been fried, fried, allowing 25 25 g. (5 generous cup) oz., (l (1 oz.,* oz.,! cup) cup) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs to to 150 lSO E. g. (5 oz., generous * butter. butter. pour-mpe LA PoRTUGAISE Chicken la portugaise portugaise I. 1. POULARDE A À LA PORTUGAlSE Chicken tIl la Cook Cook the the chicken, chicken, covered, covered, in in the the oven aven with with butter. butter. To Ta serve, serve, and topped surround sur round with with 88 tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed and topped with with browned browned crumbs. crumbs. Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices juices with with white white wine, wine, thicken thicken with with brown a clove clove of of brown veal veal gravy gravy flavoured with witb tomato tomato and and a garlic, and garlic, and pour over olier the the chicken. chicken. pourmpn PoRruGArsE portugaise II. Chicken i la Chlcken la portugaise n. POULARDE AÀ u LA PORTUGAISE -it is oven with covered, in chicken, covered, Cook Cook the the chîcken, in the the oyen with butter. butter. When When it is tomatoes diced tomatoes in the cooked, put in three-quarters cooked, the pot peeled, peeled, diced I and tablespoon in butter, have been which have been cooked in and 1 tablespoon onion. chopped onion. chopped juices over the chicken and cooking juiœs the cooking To serve, serve, pour the To over the chicken and parsleY. with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle chicken the chicken PRJNcEssr-Poach PouLARDE PRINCE.'iSF. - Poach the Chickenprinc€ds. POULARDE stock. chicken stock. quantity ofwhite of white chicken in aa small small quantity in with filled wilh pastry cases cases fiJled of pastry with aa garnish of Surround with Surround in buttec butter. simmerod in and truffies trufles simmered asparagus tips, and buttered asparagus buttered chicken. the chicken. over the SAUCE) over sauce (see SAUCE) Pow Allemande Allemande sauce Pour punfn DE chicken Pur6e of of chicken voLAILLE -- Purée DE VOLAILLE pur6e. pURÉE Chicken purée. Chicken as a garnish or filling. alone or or as served aJone poached in white stock, stock, served in white poached a garnisb or filling. as a and used used as la reine, reine, and purde àit la called purée It isis sometimes sometimes called It a bouchdes, pastry' such as bouchées, such as with pastry, made with garnish for for entrées entries made vol-an-vent. and vol·au-Yent. rissoles and used for the also use
their their own own liquor, Iiquor, and and drained. drained. Add Add boiled-down boiled-down oyster oyster liquor liquor to (0 SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the chicken. chicken. IfIfpreferred, preferred, the the oysters may may be he served served on on pieces pieces of of fried fried bread bread or or toast, toast, or or put put in the tbe sauce. sauce.

-

C-hicken Chicken Panurge. Panurge. Eruvfn ÉTuVÉE DE DE PoULET POULET PANURGE PANURGE - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken up up as as for for a/ricassCe. africassée. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper and put itit in in aa shallow shallow pan in in 22 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Saut6 Sauté the the chicken over over aa hot hot flame until until the the flesh is quite quite firm, firm, and and remove remove from from the the pan. pan. Cut Cut into into thin thin pieces aa 3-dl. 3-d!. (|-pint, H-pînt, l|-cup) 1t-cup) mixture of carrots, carrots, onions onions and celery; toss toss lightly lightly in in butter, and put in the the pan. Lay Lay the the chicken chicken pieces on on this this vegetable vegetable foundation. Pour in in dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid and and pour pour in in

aa little little fresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook gently, gently, covered, covered, for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Add Add stoned stoned olives olives and and simmer simmer for for aa few few minutes' Fut Put the the chicken chicken on on aa dish dish and and pour the sauce, fo which has been been added added aa good good tablespoon taDleSIPocm butter, over the bird' Place thin thiD slices slices of of the the $zzard gizzard which have been been peeled, peeJed, trimmed, trimmed, cooked cooked in in consomm6 consommé and and fried fried in in butter; butter; and and thin thin slices slices of of the the liver, also fried in butter; butter; on on the the chicken' chicken. Garnish Gamish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped bread bread cro0tons croûtons fried fried in butter. butter. Chicken Chicken Ià la la parislenne. parisienne. PouLARoe POULARDE A À LA LA PARTSIBNNE PAR1SŒNNE Remove Remove the breast bone bone and stuff the (he chicken with with aa Fine Fine panada panadaforcemeal (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Truss the bird bird and and forcemeat (see poach in În white stock. Drain the chicken chieken when it it is Îs cold; cold; cut eut off off the the pieces pieces of of add to aa breast. breast. Take out the stuffing, cut in large dice dice and and add (see FORCEMEAT)' cold chicken cold chicken Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat (see FORCEMEAn. coat with Refill the interior of of the bird with wi th this mixture,and coat with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Chm'rd-froid sauce (see white Chaud-froid place on on and place sauce, and Slice the breasts thinly, coat with the sauce, and tongue. Serve the the chicken. Decorate with the with trufres truffles and and surround surround with vegetable bread, and on buttered buttered bread, chicken on chicken vegeta ble with decorated with lined withjelly with jelly and decorated rn darioles !ined mould ed in salad mouJded truffies. truffles. jelly shapes and shapes and distt with jelly the dish Ornament the the borders of the Ornament jelly. garnish with chopped chopped jelly. garnish pfntc'oURDINE powlnpn ÀA LA u PÉRIGOURDIl'.'E Chicken IlI la périgourdine. Chlcken Srigowdine. POULARDE gras and seasoned and dîced diced truffies, trufres, seasoned with foie gras chicken with the chicken Stuff the it, Cook it, with brandy. brandy' Cook moistened with and moistened and spicc with salt salt and spice and with it. with butter. butter, or or braise ÎL in the oven with the oven covered, in comcooking isis coml0 minutes minutes before before eooking about JO Add truilles trufres about Add with these. these. chicken with the chicken pleted, and surround the and when serving surround when serving pleted, juices diluted with diluted with cooking juices chicken the the cookîng Pour over over the the chicken Pour (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and Rich Richbrown Madeira and Madeira brown sauce PIE. See PIE. Chicken pie -- See Chlcken pArf DE rl CRÉOLE cnfou -os POULET PouLEr ft.A LA cr6ole. PÀTÉ la créole. Chicken pie Ilil la Chicken (see PASTRY), PASTRY), very slightly Brioche pastry (sec Make sorne some Brioche Make yellow with pale yellow with saffron. Preand salted, salted, tinted pale sweetened and sweetened as sauce as down the the sauce curry, boiling down pare separately aa chicken chicken curry, pare of fat fat and and blend of forcemeat with aa bJend Make aa forcemeat as possible. Make much as much for aa cook for peppered, and and cook very weil well peppered, and very lean pork, salted and Jean of aa tart, tatt, pastry inin the the shape of out the the pastry in fat. fat. Spread out moment in moment in the bottom, bottom, forcemeat in layer of of forcemeat Put aa layer in the the middle. Put hollow in hollow with another another cover with pieces ofcurried chicken on on top, top, cover place the of curried chicken the pieces pastry. put on lid of of pastry. on aa]id and put layer of forcemeat, and of forcemeat, more tban rise more than middle should should rise The middle oven. The Bake slowly slowly inin the the oven. cold. orcold. Serve hot hot or the sides. sides.Serve the pduorvrAlsE re PIÉMONTAISEpi6montaise I.I. POULARDE PouLARDE ÀALA Chickenlii lala piémontaise CbJcken (4oz.) diced 100g.g.(4 oz.) diced with 100 mixed with risotto mixed with risotto Stuff the chicken thechic Stuff ken with with butter. butter. oven with theaven covered, ininthe Cook, covered. white truffles. trufres.Cook, white juices with mix with with wine, mix white wine, with white cooking juices Dilute the the cooking Dilute pour over chicken. over the thechicken. and pour veal gravy,and brown veal thickened brown thickened ptftrlovrllsn t l PIÉMONTAISEPoULARDE ÀALA Chicken ài lala pidmontaise II. POULARDE Chlcken When with butter. butter. Wh ovenwith the oven covered,ininthe Cook the the chicken, eovered, Cook en with chicken Cover the thechic garnistrwith risotto. Cover cheese risotto. withcheese cookedgamish cooked ken with cooking thecooking (aoz..) slices. Pour cutininthin thinslices. Pourthe 100g.g.(4 oz.)white whitetruffies truffieseut 100 229 229

CHICKEN CHICKEN (see SAUCE), Pottr Suprême Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE), made made with with mushroom mushroom Pour essence, over over the the chicken. chicken. essence, pouLARDE (Cr6ole cookery). Chicken with with rice rice ài la la Bourbon Bourbon (Créole cookery). POULARDE Chlcken AU RIZ RIz ÀA LA rA BOURBON souRsoN -- Lightly Lightly brown brown aa chicken chicken in in fat. fat. Add Add aa AU finely chopped chopped cooked cooked on onion, carrots, bunch of of herbs, herbs, ion, 22 car rots, aa bunch finely pepper and salt, pepper and 1I tablespoon pur6e. Add tablespoon tomato tomato purée. Add stock stock and and salt, cook on on very very slow slow heat heat for for about about It l| hours. hours. Boil Boil down down the the cook liquid. liquid. Scald, drain, drain, and and cook cook rice rice in in chicken chicken stock. When soft, stock. When soft, Scald, place the arrange on on aa dish dish and and place pieces round chicken pieces the chicken round it. it. arrange pour over Strain the the stock stock and and pour over the dish. Decorate Decorate with with slices the dish. slices Strain of carrot. carrot. of Chicken and and rice rice with with suprême suprOme sauce. sauce. POULARDE IoULARDE AU AU RIZ Rrz Chlcken supn0l,s -- Half Half cook sAUcE SUPRÊME cook aa chicken, chicken, trussed trussed as as for for boiling SAUCE boiling and covered covered with with bacon fat. inin white bacon fat, white stock. stock. When When halfhalfand cooked, drain drain the Put the the bird. bird. Put the stock stock through through aa fine fine strainer cooked, strainer and replace the pot. Add (9 oz., chicken in g. (9 in the the chicken the pot. 250 g. Add 250 oz.,lJ cups) li cups) and blanched and and drained drained rice, (3 rice, stock, stock, and and 22 tablespoons blanched tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking ail all together, tablespoons) together, over over slow slow heat. part of Using part cooking liquor liquor prepare prepare aa Suprême of the the cooking sauce SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see chicken with with ririce, Flank the chicken ce, and and serve with suprême suprAme sauce seuce serve with and the chicken broth. the chicken broth. and

An Anold-fashioned old-fashioned spit spitfor forchickens chickens (Grün) Griin\

Surround ions cooked Surround with with carrots carrots and and on onions cooked in in the chicken the chicken broth. broth. poULARDE ROSIÈRE Chlcken a chicken RosiCre. POULARDE Chicken Rosière. RosriRE -- Stuff Stuffa chicken with with Chickenforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Chickenforcemeat with with cream uearn (see FORCEMEAT). Truss Truss it, it, laying laying the flat against feet fiat the feet against the the sides. Rub itit ail all over sides. Rub with over with lemon juice and lemon juice and wrap wrap itit entirely entirely in in bards bards of of bacon bacon fat. fat. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of aa casserole casserole with with strips fresh bacon rinds, strips of of fresh bacon rinds, rounds carrot and ion and herbs. Place rounds of ofcarrot and on onion and aa bunch bunch of ofherbs. Place the the chicken ver the chicken on on top and add add sufficient top and sufficient veal veal stock stock to to co cover the chicken. chicken. Simmer Simmer with with the lid on the lid on for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes. Blanch, Blanch, trim press under and press trim and under aa weight weight for for 30 30 minutes minutes 33 calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, having having removed removed ail all membranes. membranes. About About 35 35 minutes minutes before before serving, serving, eut cut the the sweetbreads in slices cm. sweetbreads in slices1I cm. (t(| inch) just coyer inch) thick, put in pan, just thick, put in aa pan, cover with with white white veal veal stock, stock, add piece of add aa piece of butter butter and and simmer. simmer.

Roasting chickens, Roasting chickens, Angers (French (French Government Government Tourisi Tourist Office) Ofice)

chlcken. poULARDE POULARDE ndrn RÔTIE - Truss the Roast chicken. the chicken chicken and and season inside and and outside. Coyer season Cover the breast breast with with aa thin thin slice slice

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of bacon fat, and roast roast in the the oven oyen or the spit. ofbacon cooking or on on the spit. For cooking see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking times, see cooking limes times for roasts. for Serve with the the cooking cooking juices, and watercress. Serve and watercress. Roast chicken chlcken irà I'anglaiss. l'anglaise. poULARDE POULARDE RÔTIE À L'ANGLAISERoast n6rre A L'ANGLATsE Roast the chicken in the usual way. Surround Surround with with slices slices of of grilJed sausages, sausages, and serve serve with Bread sauce bacon or grilled (see with Bread sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast chicken chicken d à I'anglaise l'anglaise may may also also be be prepared in Roast in the the Roast turkey turkey ità I'anglaise l'anglaise (see (see TURKEY). same way as as Roast same TURKEY). Chlcken with with rock rock (coarse) (coarse) salt salt. powl.RDE POULARDE AU AU GROS Chicken cRos SEL sEL -Poach the the chicken in in white white stock. stock. Serve with its its strained Poach Serve with strained and rock rock (coarse) salt. salt. cooking liquor Iiquor and cooking

Roast chicken (A.B.e.) Roast chicken (A.B.C.)

230 230

CHICKEN CHICKEN

t

white white stock stock or or broth, broth, the the sauce sauce may may be he thickened thickened with with aa little liUle butter butter and and flour flour worked worked together. together. The The same same applies applies to to dà blanc blanc chicken chicken saut6s. sautés.

Prepare Prepare f litre litre (1| (I! pints, pints, lfIl pints) pints) fresh fresh Mushroom Mushroom purie (see (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). Add Add 22 dl. dl. (] (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) fresh cream to to bring bring itie to to the the consistency consistency of of an an ordinary ordinary sauce, sauce, and and cream mix into into itil 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) oz.) mushrooms mushrooms chopped and and cooked. cooked. mix

Sautied Sautéed chicken cruckco Alexandra. Alexandra. PoULET POULET SAUTE SAUTÉ ALExANDRA ALEXANDRA

--

Saut6 Sau té the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà blanc. blanc. Dilute Dil Ule the Ihe cooking cooking juices juices with dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, scant seant +t cup) cup) white white stock stock and and boil bail with I1 dl. down. down. Stir Stir in in 1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant 1: cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Veloute sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tabletablespoons) spoons) Soubise Soubise purie purée (see (sec PUREE), PURÉE), 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,t oz., 1cup) cup) butter. butter. Strain Strain the the

Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rem ove the the barding and and trussing Drain and surround surround with with the the slices slices of sweetbread. Coat Coat the strings and chicken and the sauce and the the garnish gamish with wÎth some sorne of orthe sauce and and serve serve the the

I

rest separately. separately. rest

la Rossini. Rossini. poULARDE POULARDE A À r,c, LA nosslNl ROSS1NT -- Cook Cook the the Chicken. Ià la Chicken ehicken, covered, covered, in in butter butter in in the the oven. oyen. Set Set itit on on aa dish dish and and chicken, surround itil with with slices slices of/ore of foie gras gras tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Placn Place 22 surround slices of of trufre lruffle heated heated in in butter butter on on each each slice slice of offoie foie gras. gras. slices

*

sauce. sauce.

Sautded Sautéed chicken ch.ickcn aa I'algSrienne. l'algérienne. PouLET POULET seurf SAUTÉ A À L'arc6ruL'ALGÉRIthe the chicken chicken in in oil oil dil brun. brull. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add I1 tablespoon tahlespoon chopped chopped onion. onion. Take Take out out the the chicken; chicken; put in in the the pan pan aa crushed crushed garlic garlic clove clove and 2 peeled, peeled, drained and chopped tomatoes; lomatoes; cook cook for for 88

Pour over over the the chicken chicken its cooking cooking juices diluted dilutoo with w:îth Pour Madeira and and truffie-flavoured truffle-fiavoured Rich Rich brown sauce sauce (see (see Madeira he placed placed in pastry pastry SAUCE). The slices of foie gras may be

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ENNE ENNE - Saut6 Sauté

cases, or or on on slices slices ofbread fried in in butter. butter. cases. salado sluDE SALADE DE DE voLAILLE VOLA1LLE - Set Set sliced cooked Chicken salad.

minutes, minutes, stirring. stirring. Put Put back back the chicken chicken in in the the pan pan and and simmer 8 to to l0 JO minutes minutes without without boiling. boiling. When When serving the the chicken, chicken, garnish gamish with with 22 diced diced aubergines aUbel"gJllles saut6ed sautéed in in oil. Pour the the sauce over the the chicken ehicken and and sprinkle with wilh chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickeo ambassadrice. ambassadrice. PouLEr POULET sAUTE SAUTÉ AMBAsAM BASSADRIcE Sauté the chicken and 8 mushrooms mushrooms in in butter butter dà SADR1CE - Saut6 brun. Dllute DiJute the pan pan juices juices with with + dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant scant IÀ cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil Boil down the liquid and and pour pour in in l+ It dl. dl. (+ Hgrary. Cook at pint, pint,1J cup) eup) thickened thickened veal gravy. at boiling hoiling point point for for aa few moments. Garnish Gamish the cooked chicken with with 8 cocks' coeks' combs combs and and 88 stock,44 chicken livers cocks' kidneys kidneys cooked cookcd in light ligbt stock, livers saut6ed sautéed in butter, bUller, the mushrooms, and and 8 slices of of truffie. trume. Coat Coat with with the sauce. sauce. A s,c'urE À mode. PoULET Sautded Sautéed chicken chicken A fi I'ancienne l'ancienne mode. POULET SAUTÉ MoDE- Saut6 L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE MODESaute the the chicken cbicken in butterdblanc.Dilute butter à blanc. Dilute cup) white or the pan with with l| q dl. (t white stock stock or the juices in the pan $ pint,3t eup) stir stock. boil mushroom stock, boi1 down to two-thirds two-thirds of of its its volume, volume, stir (see SAUCE) sauce (sec SAUCE) Velouti sauce in U dl. ü in 1-1 dl. $ pint, 3i cup) chicken Velouté (2 oz., and g. (2 oz., t{ cup) butter, and 50 g. and boil and hoil for 5 minutes. Add Add 50 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped truffies tablespoons (3 strain. Add 2 tahlespoons strain. port. (6 tahlespoons, cup) port. scantIt cup) and 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, seant and garnish with rosettes with rosettes and garnish sauce and Coat the chicken with the sauce of puff pastry. ANNETTE -- Sauté Saut6 PouLET SAUTE slur6 ANNETTE Annette. POULET chicken Aooette. Saut6ed chickell juices with with white white pan juices Dilute Ihe the pan in hutter butter àd brun. Dilute the chicken in and liquid, and Boil down down the the liquid, add 1I chopped shallot. Boil and add wine and for aa brown grary. Boil pint, 3 eup) cup) Ihickened thickened brown add 1l|~ dl. dl. Ct add Boil for $ pint, few moments. moments. Add tI tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil few lemon juice and 1 tablespoon of lemon squeeze of and tarragon, tarragon, aa squeeze and fresh butter. fresh (see potatoes (see Annette po/aioes of Annelle in aa crust crust of chicken in Set tbe the ehicken Set sauce. with the sauce. Coat wi POTATOES). Coat th the potatoes with straw potatoes is is made made with straw potatoes The crust crust of Annette potatoes The dish with aa small potatoes, hut small dish but with Anna pOlatoes, like Anna in butter cooked in butter like cooked cake. hollow cake. form aa hollow potatoes 10 to form put in the middle of of the potaloes put ARcHIDUc -PoULET SAUTÉ sA,ur6 ARCHIDUC Archduke. POULET chickm Archdllke. Saut6ed chicken Sautéed cooked half cooked When itit isis half blanc. When in butter butter àit blanc. chicken in Saut6 the the chieken Sauté lightly (3 tablespoons) onion lightly chopped onion tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (J add 22 tahlespoons add paprika. pinch of of paprika. and aa pinch in bUller, cooked in butter, and cooked (6 tabJespoons, juices with scant tablespoons, scant with 1I cU. dl. (6 Dilute the cooking juices the eooking Dilute (+ pinl, pint, tJ cup) cup) pour in in 11 l+ dl. dl. (a down, pour wine, boil boil down, cup) white white wine, 11 cup) g.(2 cup) oz., !* cup) Add 50 50 g. moments. Add for aa few few moments. and boil boil for cream and cream (2 OZ., juice to and sl'rain. st'rain' sauce and the sauce lemon juice to the of lemon and aa squeeze squeeze of butter and butter and in ehunks chunks and cut in cucumbers CUI with cucumbers chicken with Garnish the the chieken Gamish with the the sauce. sauce. Coat with in butter. butter. Coat simmered in simmered

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shredded lettuce, lettuce, sprinkle sprinkle with chicken on a foundation of shredded Vinaigre/le sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) and and garnish gamish with with lettuce leltuce Vinaigrette hearts and quartered hard-boiled eggs. hearts Saureoo chicken. pour,Ers POULETS sAUTEs SAUTÉS -- Small Small tender tender fowls, Saut6ed welghing from 900 to 1800 1800 g. (2 to 4 lb.) lh.) are more mOrc suited to weighing this way way than than fat fowls and capons. The The chicken being cooked this he saut6ed sautéed rapidly rapidly in butter, butter, in in oil oil or or in fat, but hut should shouJd should be juices. he allowed to ta boil boil in its itsjuices. not b€ To cut eut up the chicken for cooking, divide it into ioto joints. joints. Cut away the leg at its thickest part, having cut through through the joint. Heating the feet makes them easier to lo skin. Spring chickens are sim ply divided into ioto halves, which whÎch are simply lightly flattened. flaltened. lightly ofchicken To sauté pieces of chicken and put them (hem in sauti àd blanc. Season Season pieces a heated butter. butter. Saut6 Sauté the the pieces without without allowing a!!owing a pan of heated at moderate heat. hrown. Cover Coyer the lhe pan and cook al them to brown. Pour off the Take out Oul the the wings and tirs\. pour the butter, Take and breasts first. juice or white stock, mushroom juice dilute the the pan juices with with white cream, and add a sauce. Garnish. (scant i cup) butter or sauti ilit brull. brun. Heat 3 lablespoons tablespoons (seant! To sauré add seasoned seasoned pieces of chicken. Brown well oil in a pan pan and add and cook over a low heat. After 6 or 8 cover, and on bOlh both sides, sides, cover, and the of breast, breast, and the pieces of minutes, lake take out out the the wings and most delieate, delicate, are being the mûst keep them them warm. warrn. (These parts, heing for cooked the soonest.) Leave the legs and carcases to cook for 8 to 12 minutes, according to sizc. size. to 12 cooking fat, pieces of ehicken, chicken, remove remove the the cooking Take out out the the pieces juices wilh in the recipe -- wine, with the liquid specified in dilute the juiees juices, etc. and Boil down this liquor liquor by by half and etc. Boil stock or meat jUlces, add add aa sauce. sauce. pan, coyer keep cover and and keep pieces of chicken in in the pan, of crucken Put Put back back the the pieces Garnish. warm, wann, but but avoid avoid boiling. Gamish. and cook cook the the pieces To sauté sauti àit bnm la minagire. Brown and Ta brun àd la Add 1I tahletableTake [hem out of of the pan. Add chicken as as ahove. above. Take them out of of chicken pan and colour and allow allow to to colour liquor in in the the pan spoon flour to spoon f10ur to the the liquor and liquid. Boil Boil down down and wine or other liquid. slightly. th wine Dilute wi with or other slightly. Dilute (+ pint, or pint, scant consomm6 or cup) white white stock, stock, consommé then add 22 dL dl. (1 scant cup) then add 15 minutes, with aa wooden wooden 12 to minutes, stining stirring with water. Cook Cook for for 12 to 15 water. spoon, and strain. spoon, and strain. pan, pour the pieces or in the the chicken in the covered covered pan, Replace the of ehicken the pieces avoid boiling. warm, but but avoid sauce sauce over over and and keep keep warm, saut6ed garnishes for chicken include saUléed for sautéed saut6ed chîcken The The many many gamishes pieces of glazd carroIs, celeriac, brussels brussels of celeriac, carrots, smaU small pieces aubergines, aubergines, glazed (zucchinis), marrows (zucchinis), sprouts in in butter, cucumbers, baby baby marrows sprouts butter, cucumbers, glazed onions, noodles, cream, small onions, noodles, in butter or cream, small glazed sweetcom butter or sweetcorn in macaroni, macaroni, riee, rice, etc. etc. pan juices of of the the the diluted diluted pan follow, the In In the which follow, the recipes which as added to to them, such such as have sauces chicken chicken saut6es should sauces added should have (demi-glace) sauce (demi-glace) Rich brown brown sauce stock or or Rich thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (see SAUCE). added to to them. them. sauce can can he be added Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato and preparations are with wine wine and are diluted diluted with When When the the sauté saut6 preparations

ARcHIsnurf ARCH1PoULE-t SAUTÉ Archduke Salvator. Salvator. POULET chicken Archduke Sautffi chicken Sautéed Archduke. chickm Archduke. as for for Sautéed Sautied chicken Prepare as - Prepare garnish (see GALETTE) and garnjsh galette (see GALETTE) and Potato galelle Set itit on on aa POlala Set and mushrooms and butter, sautéed saut6ed mushrooms in hutter, simmered in cucumbers simmered with cucumbers with

DUc SALVATOR sALvATon DUC

of truffle. trufle. slices of sUces 23r 231

CHICKEN CHICKEN There are are numerous numerous ways ways of of cooking Chicken Chicken Arch&tke. Archduke. The basic basic recipe recipe is is saut6ed sautéed chicken chicken to to which which has has been been added added onion on ion and and cream. cream. The method method of of diluting diluting the the juices juices may be be varied varied by by using using brandy brandy or or Madeira, Madeira, the sauce finished off with cucumbers, with whisky whisky or or port, port, the the garnish garnish composed of cucumbers, mushrooms, mushrooms, quartered quartered artichokes artichokes or or truffies. truffles. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouLET POULET slur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken in in butter butter dà brun. brun. When When itit is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 12 12 quarters quarters of of well weil blanched blanched artichokes. artichokes. Finish Finish cooking cooking all all these these together. together. Take Take out out the the chicken chicken and and artichokes. artichokes. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, pour pour in in 1+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, Jt cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy. Set Set the the chicken chicken on on a dish, dish, garnish garnish with with the the quarters quarters of artichokes, artichokes, and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. The The chicken chicken may may also also be be garnished garnished with with artichoke artichoke bases, bases, cooked cooked in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, sliced sliced and and saut6ed sautéed with with the the chicken. chicken. Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with with basil. basil. pouI"E-r POULET slur6 SAUTÉ AU AU BAsrLrc BASILIC -juices Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter, butter, browning browning it. it. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with with 22 dl. dl. ({ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped basil. basil. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid by by half. half. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., juice. cup) butter; butter; mix mix well. weIl. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with this thisjuice. *t cup) Sautded Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la biarrotte. biarrotte. pouLEr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À r.l LA srA,nBIARRorrE ROTTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil dà brun. brun. juices with Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with white white wine, wine, boil boil down, down, and and pour pour in in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add aa crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) cipes cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) saut6ed sautéed in in oil, oil, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) diced diced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sautéed in in oil, oil, aa peeled, peeled, diced diced and and saut6ed sautéed aubergine aubergine and and aa medium-sized medium-sized onion onion cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Arrange Arrange in in separate separate groups groups round round the the chicken. chicken. Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la boh6mienne. bohémienne. pournr POULET s.lurf SAUTÉ A À ul LA BoHEMTENNE BOHÉMIENNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken, chicken, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, in in oil oil dà brun. brun. When When itit is is half-cooked, half-cooked, add add 44 sweet sweet pimentos pimentos peeled peeled and and cut cut in in large large strips, strips, 22 tomatoes tomatoes peeled peeled and and cut cut in in thick cut in in small small dice dice and and thick slices, slices, aa medium-sized medium-sized onion on ion cut blanched, blanched, aa crushed crushed clove clove ofgarlic of garlic and and aa teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped fennel. fenne!. Dilute add +1 dl. dl. (3 (3 tabletableDilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add spoons, spoons, scant scant +t cup) cup) thickened thickened rich rich brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, and and finish finish with with aa squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Set Setthe thechicken chicken on onaadish, dish, coat coatwith with the thesauce sauce and and serve servewith with Rice RicedàI'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE). RICE). Saut6ed Saotéed chicken chicken Boivin Boivin (Mont-Bry's (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). pouI,Er POULET slurE chicken lightly SAUTÉ BorvrN BOIVIN -- 'Cook 'Cook aa jointed jointedchicken lightly in in butter, butter, browning browning aa little little on on both both sides. sides. When When the the pieces pieces are are lightly lightly browned, browned, put put in in the the pan pan 24 24 small small onions onions that that have have been been tossed tossed in in butter, butter, 12 12 quarters quarters of of small small blanched blanched artichokes, artichokes, and and 24 24 small small new new potatoes potatoes of of uniform uniforro size size and and shape. shape. Season. Season. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, on on aa gentle gentle heat. heat. 'Drain 'Drain the the pieces pieces of of chicken. chicken. Set Set them them on on aa dish dish and and arrange arrange the the garnish garnish of of onions, on ions, artichokes artichokes and and potatoes potatoes juices diluted round roundthem. them. Pour Pourover overthe the chicken chickenthe thecooking cookingjuices diluted with pot-au-feu btoth, broth, with with the the addition addition of of22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 withpot-au-fat tablespoons) tablespoons)dissolved dissolved meat meat glaze, glaze, sharpened sharpened with with aa squeeze squeeze oflemon lemonjuice, juice, and and with with butter butter added.' added.' of Sauteed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la bordelaise. bordelaise. pourpr POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À re LA BoRDELAISEBORDELAlSE - Saut6 Sautéthe thechicken chickenininaamixture mixture of ofoil oil and and butter. butter. Finish Finish as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautied Sautéed chickm chicken with with white white wine wine (see (seebelow). below).Add Add to tothe thesauce sauce I1tablespoon tablespoon Tomato Tomato sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove clove of ofgarlic. garlic. SAUCE) Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes sautéed in in butter, butter, 22blanched blanched artichokes artichokes cut cut in in quarters quarters and and saut6d cookedinin butter, butter, several several sprigs sprigsfried fried parsley, parsley, and2 and 2mediummediumcooked sized onions onions cut cut in in rings rings and and fried. fried. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sized

Sautée
Sautéed chicken ià la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. pouLET POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À r.l LA Sauteed BouRcuIGNoNNs BOURGUIGNONNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken in butter butter dà brun. When three-quarters cooked add 12 12 small glazed glazed onions, 12 12 mushthree-quarters rooms lightly lightly cooked in butter butter and 22 slices blanched, diced diced rooms lean bacon bacon lightly lightly fried fried in butter. butter. lean Take out out the the chicken chicken and its its accompaniments. Dilute Dilute the the Take pan pan juices juices with with 22 dl. (] (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) red red wine and add a crushed clove clove of of garlic. garlic. Boil Boil down down to to two-thirds, two-thirds, add add l] 11 dl. crushed pint, 3 t cup) cup) Rich Rich brown brown sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), cook cook at $(t pint, boiling point point for for aa few few moments, moments, and and strain. strain. boiling Surround the the chicken chicken with with the the garnish, garnish, and coat coat with with the the Surround sauce. Heart-shaped Heart-shaped crottons croûtonsfried in butter butter may may be be added. added. sauce. fried in Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la bourguignonne bourguignonne or or en en matelote. matelote. pouLET POULET Saut6ed SAUTÉ A À r,c, LA souncurcNoNNE, BOURGUIGNONNE, EN EN MATELoTE MATELOTE slurf -

in butter butter Fry in

slices blanched blanched lean lean bacon bacon cut cut in in big big dice. dice. Add Add 12 12 blanched blanched 22 slices small onions, onions, cook cook till till golden, golden, and and add add 12 12 small small mushrooms. mushrooms. small Remove these these ingredients, ingredients, which which form forro the the garnish, garnish, and Remove brown quickly quickly pieces pieces of of chicken chicken in in the the same same fat. fat. When When they they brown are half-cooked, half-cooked, put put the the garnish garnish back back in in the the pan, pan, cover,and cover, -and are cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. cook Take out out the the chicken chicken and and the the garnish. garnish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices Take (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) red red wine, wine, boil boil down down to to half, half, and and with 22 dl. d!. $ with thicken with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter mixed mixed with with aa little little flour. fiour. thicken Strain. Strain. Surround the the chicken chic ken pieces pieces with with the the garnish garnish and and pour pour the the Surround sauce over. over. sauce Sautéed chicken chicken in in butter butter or or ià la la minute. minute. pouLET POULET slurE SAUTÉ lu AU Saut6ed BEURRE, AÀ r,c, LA MTNUTE MINUTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter ità brun. brun. BEURRE, To serve, serve, squeeze squeeze lemon lemon juice juice over, over, pour pour on on the the very very hot hot To cooking butter, butter, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. cooking Sautéed chicken chicken with with cOpcs cèpes I. 1. pournr POULET s,c,ur6 SAUTÉ lux AUX ciprs CÈPES Saut6ed Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil or or in in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter. butter. Saut6 When itit is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, add add 300 300 g. g. (ll (II oz.) oz.) white white When cèpes (q.v.) (q.v.) which which have have been been cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and saut6ed sautéed cipes in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped onion. onion. in juices with Drain the thechicken chicken and, and cCpes. cèpes. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices with I1dl. dl. Drain (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., It cup) cup) butter. butter. 50 Gamish the the chicken chicken with with the the cipes, cèpes, coat with with the the juice, juice, Garnish chopped parsley. parsley. A A crushed crushed clove clove of of and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped and garIic may may be be added. added. garlic Sautéed chicken chicken with with cdpes cèpes II. n. pourer POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUx AUX ciprs CÈPES Saut6ed Prepare the the chicken chicken as as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with with white white wine wine Prepare (see below). below). Garnish Garnish with with Clpes Cèpes dà la la bordelare bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSH(see ROOMS). Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped ROOMS). parsley. parsley. 232 232

CHICKEN CHICKEN and Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with buttered buttered French French beans, beans, and in truffies truffies which which have have been been cut cut in in thick thick strips strips and and heated heated in sherry. Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. sherry. Coat slur6 Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken fermi0re fernùère or or Ià la la paysanne. paysanne. PouLET POULET SA uTÉ plvslNrrrs rrnMrins, FERMIÈRE, AÀ rlc, LA PAYSANNE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken as as above. above. Add Add (see l+ It dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, J t oup) cup) Vegetable Vegetable fon&te fondue (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Finish Finish cooking cooking together. together. Set Set the the chicken chîcken and and vegetables vegetables in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish or or casserole, casserole, add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons diced diced lean lean ham ham and and simmer, simmer, covered, covered, in in the the oven. oyen. (* pint, cup) juices with 1| Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices with It dl. dl. (t pint, It cup)

thickened thickened veal veal gravy gravy and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the the dish. dish. pourrr lux chickm aux Saut6ed Sautéedchicken aux fines fines herbes herbes I. J. POULET slurf SAUTÉ AUX brun. d in butter FrNEs FINFS HERBEs. HERBES. Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in butter à brun. wine, Dilute Dilute the tbe pan pan juices juices with with lf li dt. dl. 6r pint, pin t, t cup) cup) white white wine, (+ pint, l+ dl. and add Boil down shallot. a chopped add add a chopped shallot. Boil down and add It dl. (t pint, t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. and tarraAdd Add *t tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarrajuice, gon, gon, aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice, and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter. butter. chicken. When to serve, When ready ready·to serve, pour pour this this sauce sauce over over the the chicken. snurf lux II. pournr fines herbes Sautff Sautéed chicken chic ken atx aux fines herbes II. POULET SAUTÉ AUX put on dish. on aa dish. and put as above, above, and chicken as FrNEs FINFS HERBEsHERBES - Saut6 Sauté the the chicken (3 tablespoons, scant t+ dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cooking juices Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices with with tI dl. and t tablespoon tablespoon shallot and chopped shallot wine. Add cup) cup) white white wine. Add aa chopped away Draw away and tarragon. tarragon. Draw chervil and chopped parsley, finely finely chopped parsley, chervil squeeze and aa squeeze g. (2 butter and cup) butter oz., tI cup) 50 g. add 50 and add from Q oz., from the the heat heat and lemon. of lemon. of PoULET SAUTÉ slurf ÀA LA la Oorentine. florentine. POULET chicken à la Sautded chicken Sautéed various with various chicken with for Sautéed Sautied chicken as for Proceed as FLoRENTINE - Proceed FLORENTINE (see RICE) Risotto (see of Risotto in aa border border of chicken in Set the wines. Set the chicken wines. RICE) (3 tablespoons) truffies. chopped truffies. tablespoons) chopped with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 mixed with mixed boiled down. down. well boiled been weil has been which has with the sauce. which Coat with the sauce, Coat pourEr SAUTÉ snurt ÀA LA forestiire. POULET la forestière. chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken à la with mushmushchicken with for Sautéed Sautted chicken Proceed as as for ronrsrdns - Proceed FORESTIÈRE (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. by 150 (see below). mushrooms by the mushrooms Replace the below). Replace rooms (see rooms oz.) potatoes sau(5 oz.) saug. (5 diced potatoes oz.) diced 150 g. in butter, butter, ISO saut6ed in morels sautéed morels (4 oz.) cardoons. g. (4 small blanched blanched cardoons. oz.) small 100 g. and 100 in butter butter and t6ed in téed AUx JETS JErs slur6 AUX PouLET SAUTÉ hop shoots. shoots POULET with hop chicken with Sautded chicken Sautéed Dilute the the brun. Dilute in butter butter àd brun. chicken Saut6 the the chic HouBLoN -- Sauté DE HOUBLON DE ken in and add add thickened thickened juices with down and wine, boil boil down with white white wine, pan juices pan (11 oz.) 300 g.g. (II with 300 chicken with gravy. Garnish Garnish the the chicken veal gravy. brown veal brown oz.) in butter. butter. cooked in hop shoots shoots cooked hop pourE'r slur6 I. in cream shoots hop shoots in cream I. POULET SAUTÉ with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed as for chicken as the chicken Prepare the ctitvm -- Prepare rl CRÈME HouBLoN ÀA LA DE HOUBLON Aux JETS JETS DE AUX for in garnish hop shoots with and cream, with chickm Sautded Sautéed chicken with cream, and garnish with hop shoots in cream. cream. poursr s,lur6 II. POULET in cream cream ll. shoots in hopshoots with hop chicken with Saut6ed chicken Sautéed SAUTÉ chicken inin the chicken Cook the cntrr,rr - Cook r.n CRÈME HouBLoN ÀA LA DE HOUBLON AUx JETS JETs DE AUX into flour into Put 1I tablespoon tablespoonflour pan. Put of the the pan. out of and take take itit out butter and butter colour. tocolour. allowing itit to without allowing cook without and cook butter and cooking butter the cooking the or whitestock stock or cup) white scant t1 cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6(6 tablespoons, Stir inin 1 dl. Stir tablespoons add33tablespoons andadd one-third and byone-third down by Boil down consomm6. Boil consommé. above. (scant tt cup) Garnish asasabove. cream.Garnish cup)cream. (scant I'ntoIENNE slurf ÀAL'INDIENNEPouLETSAUTÉ I'indienne J.I.POULET chicken Saut6ed chic Sautéed ken ài l'indienne chopped largechopped Add1Ilarge oildblanc. oroil butteror chicken inin butter Saut6 the thechicken Sauté à blanc. Add pieces thepieces powder. As Assoon soonasasthe curry powder. tablespoon curry and1I tablespoon onion and onion flour. tablespoon flour. over them them1I tablespoon sprinkle over arefirm, firm,sprinkle chicken are of chicken of pint' pour inin22dl. dl.(t(| pint, and pour stirring,and moments, stirring, foraafew fewmoments, Cookfor Cook with garniand andcook cookwith bouquetgarni Addaabouquet whitestock. stock. Add cup)white scant cup) scant pancovered. covered. thepan the boiledtheboiledwiththe coatwith andcoat timbale and chickenininaatimbale Setthe thechicken Set juice has Serve added.Serve beenadded. hasbeen lemonjuice whichlemon down sauce, sauce, totowhich down (seeRICE). RICE). Riceàit/'indienne I'indienne (see with Rice with pourrr SAUTÉ L'INprENNs slur6ÀAL'INDIENNE II.POULET I'indienne II. chickenàil'indienne Saut6ed chicken Sautéed putititinto intoa a piecesand andput intosmall smallpieces chicken into Cutup upthe thechicken - Cut diced oz.)diced 100g.g'(4(aoz.) onion,100 chopped onion, largechopped which1Ilarge casserole ininwhich casserole been alreadybeen havealready applehave gratedeating eatingapple largegrated and1 large hamand harn bay (withoil sprigofthyme, of thyme,a abay Adda asprig lard)'Add oilororlard). butter(with heatedininbutter heated

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Sauteed Sa utéed chicken chicken chasseur chasseur

Sautéed chicken chicken chasseur. chasseur. PouLEt POULET sAUTE SAUTÉ cHAssEUR CHASSEUR - Saut6 Sauté Saut6ed of oil and butter. When it it is threethreethe chicken in a mixture of mushrooms. quarters cooked, add 125 g. (4 oz.) sliced mushrooms. scant *t cup) Dilute the pan pan juices juices with I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, ta blespoons, scant cup) shallot, boil Add aa chopped shallot, boil down, down, add add It dl. dl. white wine. Add (| (t pint, pint, 3 t cup) thickened veal gravy and It dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, for aa few (see SAUCE). Boil sauce (see scant Boil for few Tomato sauce cup) Tomato scint t cup) finely and 1I tablespoon finely add I1 tablespoon brandy and moments, add parsley, chervil and tarragon. chopped parsley, chopped with chopped Coat the chicken chicken with the sauce and sprinkle with parsley. parsley. AUx sAUrE AUX PouLEr SAUTÉ chayotes. POULET with chayotes. Sautéed cNcken with Saut6ed chicken artichokes. chickm with artichokes. fot Sautéed Sautied chicken as for CHAYOTTES cHAYorrEs -- Proceed as custard or custard quarters of chayotes or Garnish the chicken with quarters the chicken sauce. the sauce. coat with the (q.v.) stewed and coat in butter, and marrows (q.v.) stewed in u' CRÈME cniun slur6 À LA PouLET SAUTÉ cream. POULET Sautéed ken with with cream. chicken Sautfed chic juices with pan juices with Dilute the the pan blanc. Dilute Sauté in butter àd blanc. chicken in Saut6 the chicken half. to half. Boil down down to generous cup) cream. Boil (scant tI pint, cup) cream. pint, generous 2t 2* dl. dl. (scant with the the chicken with the chicken Coat the (2 oz., Add g. (2 cup) butter. butter. Coat oz., t* cup) Add 50 50 g. or with 1I or thickened with be thickened may be sauce. The cooking juices may The diluted diluted cookingjuices (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see VeloutC sauce 22 tablespoons chicken Velouté tablespoons chicken See AU CURRIE cURRIE - See PouLEr SAUTÉ slurf AU Sautéed curry. POULET chicken curry. Saut€ed chicken I'indienne. below chicken àd l'indienne. SautCed chicken below Sautéed DEMIDoFF slur6 DEMIDOFF PouLET SAUTÉ Demidofr. POULET Sautéed chicken Demidoff. Sautfed chicken half-cooked When brun. Wh in butter butter àd brun. Sauté en itit isis half-cooked chicken in Saut6 the the chicken vegetables chopped vegetables pur6e of cooked chopped of cooked add t dl. pint, t3 cup), cup), purée dl. (t add 11| Q pint, àd la Demidoff. la Demidoff. and 1I tabletabletruffies and add 22 sliced sliced truffies At cooking add end of of cooking At the the end chicken the chicken Take out out the parsley leaves. leaves' Take spoon curly parsley blanched curly spoon blanched juices with tablespoons' with t* dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, pan juices and garnish, dilute the pan dilute the its garnish, and its pint' t3 cup) cup) l] dl. dl. (t add It and add down and scant Boil down cup) Madeira. Madeira. Boil scant t+ cup) Q pint, (seeSAUCE). Rich SAUCE). sauce (see Rich brown brown sauce with coat wi vegetables, with the vegeta To th the bles, coat th chicken wi the chicken cover the To serve, serve. coyer batter dipped inin batter onion dipped the garnish with of onion with slices slices of and garnish sauce and the sauce and fried. and fried. as Proceed as DURoc - - Proceed s,c,urE DUROC PouLEr SAUTÉ Sautéed Duroc. POULET chicken Duroc. Saut6ed chicken for chasseur. Sautied chicken chicken chasseur. for Sautéed peeledand and tomatoes peeled Garnish with 88 small small tomatoes chicken with Garnish the the chicken potatoes (5oz.) newpotatoes small new simmered 150g.g.(5 oz') small with 150 andwith butter, and in butter, simmered in chopped withchopped sprinklewith cooked withthe thesauce, sauce, sprinkle Coat with in butter. butter. Coat cooked in parsley. parsley. r'fcosPoULETSAUTÉ slurfiÀAL'ÉCOSSautéed l'6cossaise.POULET chicken à l'écossaise. SautH chicken SAISE browning it.it. butter, browning chickenininbutter, Saut6the sAIsE- -Sauté thechicken juiceswith scantt tablespoons, scant Dilute witht dl. dl.(3(3tablespoons, panjuices the pan Dilute the pint,tIcup) cup)thickened thickened cup) dl.(i(+pint, andadd add1tl+dl. Boildown downand cup)sherry. sherry. Boil add5050g.g. andadd brown moments, and fewmoments, gravy.Boil foraafew Boilfor vealgravy. brown veal (2(2oz., i cup) cup)butter. butter. oz.,l

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233 233

CHICKEN CHICKEN pinch of leaf,aapinch ofcardamom, cardamom, aapinch pinch of pinch of ofcinnamon, cinnamon, aapinch of leaf, mace and and 22crushed garlic. Sprinkle crushed cloves cloves of of garlic. Sprinkle in.4 in4 teaspoons teaspoons mace powder and curry powder and mix. mix. Add Add 22peeled peeled and and seeded seeded tomatoes. tomatoes. curry pint,scant Pour inin44dL dl. G:(* pint, scant 22cups) cups)cocoout coconut milk milk and andcook cook for for Pour 40 minutes. minutes. Add Add 1I dL dl. (6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant 1+ cup) cup) double double 40 juice of cream and and the the juice of 1I lemon. lemon. Serve Servewith with Rice Rice àd l'indienne I'indienne cream (see RICE). (see RICE). Each Indian Indian cook cook has has his his own own method method of preparing of preparing Each

pouLErSAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken ài lala meunière. meuniire. POULET slurE ÀI LA rl Sautéed Proceed as asfor for Sautéed Sautied chicken chicken ininbUller, butter, adding adding - Proceed juice and parsley, lemon chopped parsley, lemon juice and 33 or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal chopped grary or (seeSA or Rich Rich brown brown sauce. sauce. (see SAUCE). gravy UCE). pouI,Er SAUTÉ Sauteed chic chicken Mireille. POULET sAUTf MIREILLE MTRETLLE - - Sauté Saut6 Sautéed ken Mireille. juices with thechicken chicken inin butter butter àd brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the pan juices the pan with 1I dL the dl. tablespoons, scant scant 1* cup) cup) white white wine; wine; boil boil down down and andstir (6(6 tablespoons, stir in 11 l] dl. pint, -13cup) dl.(i(| pint, cup) thickened thickened brown gravy and veal gravy brown veal and 1I dl. in dl. tablespoons, scant (see SAUCE). scant i* cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). (3(3 tablespoons, Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Boil Garnish the (gourilos) in the chicken chicken with with 88 endive endive hearts hearts (gourilos) in Garnish cream and and 88 small small tomatoes, peeled, drained tomatoes, peeled, drained and and cooked in cooked in cream butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken with with the the sauce. sauce. butter. pouLET SAUTÉ Saut6ed chicken chicken Monselet. Monselet. POULET SAUTE MONSELET MoNSELET -- Sauté Sautéed Saut6 the chicken chicken in in butter butterdà brun. Drzn. When When itit is is three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, the add 22 artichoke artichoke bottoms, bottoms, blanched blanched and and cut cut in in slices, and, slices, and, add when completely completely cooked, cooked, 22 medium-sized medium-sized sliced sliced truffies. truffies. when Take out out the chicken and the chicken and its its accompaniments, accompaniments, dilute dilute the pan the pan Take juices with (6 tablespoons, with 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant J+ cup) cup) white white wine wine and and juices ({ pint, boil down. down. Add Add 11 l+ dl. pint,3-1 cup) dl. (i cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal boil gravy, and and boil boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with gravy, the artichokes artichokes and and truffies truffies and and coat with the coat with the sauce. sauce. the pouLET Saut6ed chicken chicken with with morels morels and and other other mushrooms. POULET Sautéed slurf AUX AUx MORILLES MoRrLLrs -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Sautéed Saut1ed chicken SAUTÉ chicken with with (see below), mushrooms (see below), replacing replacing the g. latter with the latter with 300 300 g. mushrooms (11 oz.) (or an oz.) morels morels (or an equivalent equivalent quantity of other other mush(II mushrooms). rooms). ltsuNriREMEUNIÈRE

curries of mutton, lamb, lamb, chicken, of mutton, chicken, fish, fish, etc. The basic etc. The basic curries principle, the curry seasoning, the curry seasoning, does does not not vary, vary, but the recipes recipes but the principle, differ from from each each other other in in requiring requiring different different ingredients. ingredients. As As differ well as as the the traditional traditional lodian-style Indian-style rice yellow (saffron) (saffron) rice -- yellow weil rice -- boiled boiled cabbage cabbage mixed mixed with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes and and rice sprinkled with with curry, curry, thin pancakes made thin pancakes made of of fine fine wheaten wheaten sprinkled

flour, etc., etc., are are served. served. f1our, In France, France, Sautéed Sautied chicken chicken àd l'indienne l'indienne isis often prepared often prepared ln by adding adding curry powder to curry powder to aa chicken chicken sauté saut6 àd blanc, blanc, its itssauce sauce by bound with with aa chicken chicken Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). bound pourBr SAUTE A L'rr,tLreNNE Sautded chicken chicken ài l'italienne I'italienne I.I. POULET Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'ITALIENNE Saut6 the the chicken chicken in in aa mixture mixture of of oil oil and and butter butter àd brun. brun. -- Sauté juices Dilute the ({ pint, the juices with with I} 1] dL pint,3~ cup) dl. (t cup) white white wine; reduce wine; reduce Dilute (+ pint, and add pint, }J cup) add 11 l* dL dl. (i (see SAUCE). cltp) /talian Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and pouLET sAUrE A r'rr.lrrrNt.re Saut6ed chicken chicken ài l'italienne I'italienne II. II. POULET Sautéed SAUTÉ À L'IT ALIENNE Saut6 the chicken in the chicken in oil and butter. oil and butter. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add add -- Sauté tablespoon onion onion which which has has been partly cooked been partly cooked in in butter, butter, 1I tablespoon chopped shallot, shallot, and and 44 chopped chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. 1I chopped juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Dilute the pan juices the pan Dilute with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant Jl cup) white wine; wine; boil boil down down and and add (6 tablespoons, add 1I dL dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant white cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock (3 tablespoons, stock and and 1 dl. (3 tablespoons, I dL 1* cup) scant i{ cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for aa few few scant moments and and add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon lean lean chopped chopped ham ham and and 1I moments tablespoon parsley, parsley, tarragon tarragon and and chervil. chervil. Coat Coat the the chicken chicken tablespoon with this this sauce. sauce. with pourer SAUTÉ Sautded chicken chicken àir la la japonaise. saur6 A t.l Sautéed japonaise. POULET À LA JApoNArsE Saut6 the chicken in brun. When When it JAPONAISE -- Sauté the chicken in butter butter d à brun. it is is half-cooked (ll oz.) add 300 g. (Il 300 g. drained half-cooked add oz.) blanched blanched and and drained Japanese Continue cooking chicken is Japanese artichokes. artichokes. Continue cooking until until the the chicken is ready, for Sautied ready, then then finish finish off off as as for Sautéed chicken chicken with with artichokes. artichokes. pouI.sr SAUTÉ A Sautded chicken Sautéed chicken àir la la livonienne. Iivonienne. POULET slur6 À rn LA LTvoNTENNE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d blanc. When it is LIVONIENNE - Sauté the chicken in butter à blanc. When it is three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) morels morels saut6ed sautéed in in butter. for Sautded butter. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices and and finish finish as as for Sautéed chicken chicken with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with the the morels morels and and coat coat with with the the sauce, sauce, to which I1 tablespoon tablespoon blanched blanched and and chopped chopped chives chives have have to which been added. been added. Scatter Scatter 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) breadbreadcrumbs crumbs fried fried in in butter butter over over the the morels. morels. poulrr SAUTÉ A Sautfu Sautéed chicken chicken Ià la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. POULET saur6 À re LA LyoNNArsE - Saut6 the chicken in butter d brun. When it is LYONNAISE - Sauté the chicken in butter à brun. When it is half cooked add 2 large half cooked add 2 large chopped chopped onions onions which which have have been been saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking. cooking. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar. vinegar. Boil Boil down, down, and and add add (+ 22 dl. dL pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy gravy or or Rich Rich brown sauce (see SAUCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce brown sauce (see SA UCE). Coat the chicken with the sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. pouI.Er SAUTÉ .4, Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken ià la la Marengo. Marengo. POULET s,turf À rl LA MARENC,o - Saut6 the chicken in oil d brun. Dilute the pan MARENGO - Sauté the chicken in oil à brun. Dilute the pan juices with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) white wine, boil juices with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, scant +1 cup) white wine, boil down down and and add add I~ dl. dL (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *i cup) thickened "up) thickened brown brown veal veal gravy, gravy, lil~ dl. dL (+ (i pint, pint, J~ atp) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and and aa crushed crushed clove cloveof ofgarlic. garlic. Boil Boil for for aa few few minutes minutes and and strain. strain. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 88fried fried mushrooms;4 mushrooms; 4 small small fried fried (or just the yolks); eggs eggs (or just the yolks); 44 crayfish crayfish trussed trussed and and cooked cooked in in court-bouillon;4 court-bouillon; 4heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons croûtons fried fried inin butter; butter; and and g8 slices of truffies truffies saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and slices of sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken au au matelote matelote -- See See Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken dà lala bourguignonne. bourguignonne.

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms mushrooms

Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken with with mushrooms. mushrooms. pouI-nr POULET s.tur6 SAUTÉ

lux AUX

cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà brun. brun. When When three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz) oz.) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with ]1dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +t cup) cup) Madeira, Madeira, boil boil down down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, J-t cup) cup) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Boil Boil for for a a few few moments. moments. Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with the the mushrooms mushrooms and and coat coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken nigoise. niçoise. pouLET POULET snurf SAUTÉ NrgorsE NIÇOISE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in oil oil dà brun. brun. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *1 cup) cup) white white wine, wine, add add aa crushed crushed garlic garlic clove, down and and add add l+ 11 dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, $-1 cup) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce clove, boil boil down

ct

(see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.)

Garnish Garnish the the chicken chicken with with 88 artichoke artichoke quarters quarters cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 44 braised braised baby baby marrows marrows (zucchini), (zucchini), l2S 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) small small new new potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and 12 12 stoned stoned black black olives. olives. Coat Coat with with the the sauce sauce and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Sautffi Sautéedchicken chickenwith withoysters oystersI.I.pouLETsAUrE POULET SAUTÉaux AUXHuirnnsHUÎTRESSaut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà blanc. blanc. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 11 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +1cup) cup) white white wint wine and and the the 234 234

CHICKEN CHICKEN liquor liquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters. oysters. Boil Boil down down and and add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *t cup) cup) chicken chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil Boil for for aa few few moments. moments. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., {} cup) cup)

cooked, cooked, 22chopped chopped medium-sized medium-sized truffies. truffles. Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnishes garnishes and and dilute dilute the the pan pan juices (3 scant with] dl. tablespoons, juices witht dl. (3 tahles-poons, seantf, cup) eup)sherry. sherry.Boil Boildown down gravy. veal (+ and and add add l+ li dl. dl. (a pint, pint, J! cup) cup) thickened thiekened brown brown veal gravy. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. Saut6ed Sautéedchicken chickel'liàlalaromaine. romaÎlle.PoULET POULETsAUTE SAUTÉAÀLA LARoMAINE ROMAll'<'Ejuices Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chic ken in in oil, oil, browning hrowning it. il. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices with with I! dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant ]1: cup) cup) Asti Asti wine. wine. Boil Boil down down and and pour pour in in I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *t cup) cup) tomato tomato sauce sauce and i cup) and ]t dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tahlespoons, scant seant} eup) thickened thickencd brown hrown veal veal gravy. gravy. leaf simmered of spinach, layer Put Put the the chicken chicken on on aa layer of leaf spinach, simmered in in butter buller and and mixed mixed with with 22 diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets. fil lets. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickel'l Stanley. Stanley. PouLEr POULET seur6 SAUTÉ sTANLEY STANLEY -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chicken in in butter butter dà blanc. blanc. When When itit is is half-cooked half-cooked add add 22 garnishwith finely findy chopped chopped onions. on ions. Remove Remove the the chicken chicken and and garnish with mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in in butter. hutter. pint, seant Add Add to to the the onions on ions and and cooking cooking juices Juices 22 dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, scant cup) cup) cream. cream. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes minutes and and sieve. sieve. Reduce Reduce the the onion onion pur6e purée by by a a quarter, quarter, season season with with a a pinch pinch of of curry curry cup) butter. powder powder and and cayenne, cayenne, and and add add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., I± cup) butter. Coat Coat the the chicken chickcn with with sauce; sauce; put put 88 slices slices of of truffie trume on on top. top. A L'EsrnAGoN Saut6ed Sautéed chicken cbkkeu with with tarragon larragon. PoULET POULET slurn SAUTÉ À L'ESTRAGON but herbes.I Prepared as as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken aux aux fines fines herbes 1 but the the -- Prepared shallot, shallot, parsley parsley and and chervil chervil are are replaced replaced by by an an equivalent equivalent quantity quantity of of chopped choppe
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butter and and aa squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemon juice. juice. Strain. Strain. butter Garnish Garnish with with the the drained drained oysters oysters and and coat coat with witb the Ihe sauce. sauce. Sautéed chicken chicken with with oysters ovsters II. II. pourer POULET saur6 SAUTÉ aux AUX Saut6ed nuirnss HUÎTRES -- Saut6 Sauté the the chicken chick~n in in butter butter hà blanc blanc and and when when half-cooked half-cooked add add I1tablespoon tablespoon blanched hlanched chopped chopped onion. onion. Take Take out oui the the chicken; chic ken ; add add to to the the pan pan juices juices I1tablespoon tahlespoon flour, flour, the Ihe liquor Iiquor from from 12 12 poached poached oysters oysters and and I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tabletablespoons, spoons, scant seant It cup) cup) mushroom mushroom or or white white stock. stock. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Add Add 22 tablespoons tahlespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and 25 25 g.g. (l(l o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Strain Strain and and finish finish as as above. above. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chicken panetiCre. panetière. PouLE'r POULET slur6 SA UTÉ plNruinr PANETIimE -Prepare as as for for sautied sautéed chicken chicken with with oeam. cream. Place Place on on aa round round Prepare of bread, trimmed, ofbread, trimmed, drid dried in in the the oven oyen and and spread spread with with pur6e purée of of foie gras. gras. foie Garnish Garnish with with morels morels (or (or other other mushrooms) mushrooms) in in cream. cream. Coat Coat with with the the sauce. sauce. SautH Sautéed chicken chicken with with paprika. paprika. PouLEr POULET slurf SAUTÉ AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA -Season Season the the chicken chicken with with paprika. paprika. Saut6 Sauté in in butter butter dà blanc blanc and finish finish as as for for Sautied Sautéed chicken chicken with wilh cremn. cream. Saut6ed Sautéed chicken chickell ià la la parisienne. parisienne. PoULET POULET slurf SAUTÉ A À u LA fot Sautied PARISIENNE PARISlENNEProceed as for Sautéed chickm chicken with white white wine >vine - Proceed (see (see below). below). Put the the chicken on a a layer of of Duchess potato patata mixture mixture (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) brushed brushed with egg and browned in in oyen. Garnish with buttered asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Coat with with the oven. sauce. the sauce. slurn PARMENTIER Saut6ed chicken Sautéed chickcn Parmentier. PouLEr POULET SAUTÉ PARMENTIER Saut6 the chicken in butter. When Saulé When two-thirds cooked, add dice and 44 blanched potatoes, cut eut in in large dice and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter. Finish as for Sautéed Sautied chicken with witn white wine (see (see below). sprinkle Garnish wittr with the potatoes, coat with the the sauce and sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. pfnlu. PÉRIslur6 A P6rigord. pourE'r la Périgord. chicken ilI la Saut6ed chicken Sautéed POULET SAUTÉ À LA The truffles tqffies. Tbe truffies may be with tru/fies. chicken witl! coRD -- Sec Se Sautéed Sautied cl!icken GORD small olives. cut to look like small eut pourpr SAUTÉ PErIT-DUc - Sauté Saut6 petit-duc. POULET s.lurf PETIT-DUC-chicken petit-duc. Sautéed SautEed chickcn juices with pan juices with tj dl. dl. the pan in butter àd brun. brun. Dilute the the chicken chicken in the and add down and (3 tablespoons, boil down Madeira, boil cup) Madeira, scant * cup) (3 tablespoons, seant (see SAUCE). Boil for for SAUCE). Boil (+ pint, ~I cup) sauce (sec Ricft brown sauce l+ dl. cup) Rich dl. (! li aa few few moments. moments. saut6ed slices sautéed morels and and trume truffie slices with morels chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish with the the sauce. sauce. in in butter. Coat Coat with rn pi6montaise. POULET saure ÀA LA PouLE'r SAUTÉ la piémontaise. chicken ài la Sautécd Sautded chicken pduovrxsn -- Proceed white !Vine wine with white chicken as for for Sautéed Sautied ch Proceed as PIÉMONTAISE ick en wilh mixed wi with of risotto mixed (see below). in aa border border of chicken in Put the the chicken (sec th below). Put truffie white truffle garnish with of white with slices slices of and garnish white trumes, truffies, and diced diced white it. over il. Pour the the sauce sauce over in butter. lightly beated heated in butter. Pour lightly pourrr SAUTÉ u slun6 ÀA LA portugaise. POULET chicken ài lala portugaise. Sautéed Saut6ed chicken poRruGAIsE - Sauté in oil. When two-thirds two-thirds oil. When chicken Saut6 the the chic PORTUGAISE ken in out the the Take out onion. Take chopped onion. cooked, add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped cooked, and aa clove clove pipped tomatoes peeled and and pipped tomatoes and put 44 peeled and put chicken, chic ken, and (6 tablespoons, pan. Season, dl. (6 tablespoons, add 1I dl. garlic in Season, add in the the pan. of crushed crushed garlic of half. Add Add 33 tabletabledown by by half. wine and and boil boil down white wine cup) white seant scant tI cup) gravy. Coat the Coat the (scant tt cup) veal gravy. brown veal cup) thickened thickened broWll spoons spoons (seant parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped and sprinkle sprinkle with with the sauce and chicken with the sauce chicken poulsr SAUTÉ rl slur6 ÀA LA provengale. POULET chicken ili lala provençale. SlIUtéed Sautied chickel'l pRovENqALE - Procecd portuchicken àh lala portufor Sautéed Sautied chicken as for Proceed as PROVENÇALE gaise. gaise. and 88 olives and blanched olives with 20 20stoned, stoned, blanched chicken with Garnish the the chicken Garnish sauce' with the the sauce. Coat with oil. Coat mushrooms sautéed saut6ed inin oil. small small mushrooms chopped withchopped andsprinkle sprinkle with filletsand anchovy flllets Decorate with with 88anchovy Decorate parsley. parsley. Saut6 the the RIvoLI - - Sauté PouLErSAUTÉ slurf RIVOLI Rivoli. POULET chickenRivoli. Sautéed Sautded chickell add44 cookedadd When thrce-quarters three-quarters cooked brun. When chickeninin butter butter àdbmn. chicken when completely completely and when potatoessautéed butter, and saut6ed inin butter, sliced sliced potatoes

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235 235

CHICKEN CHICKEN Chlcken soufflé. souffid.SOUFFLÉ sourrri DE DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE-- Using UsW raw rawchicken, chicken. Ch.icken Add 55 stiffly (2+ lb.) stifry whisked whisked egg egg whites whites to kg. (2* to 1I kg, lb.) Chicken Chicken Add (see FORCEMEAT), mousseliwforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). Put Put in inaa buttered buttered mousselineforcemeat gently in souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook gently in the the oven for 35 35 to 40 minutes, oven for to 40 minutes. soufflé Using cooked cooked chicken. (generous 1I lb,) chicken. Pound Pound 500 500 g.g. (generous lb.) Using cooked chicken chicken meat meat adding (scant l1} cup) adding 66 tablespoons tablespoons (seant cup) cooked (see SAUCE). cold thick co BCchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season and and rub rub thick Id Béchamel pur6e, without through aa sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this purée, without allowing allowing itto it to boil. boil. through (2 oz" Add 50 50 g.g. (2 yolks and oz.,l cup) cup) butter, butter, 55 egg egg yolks and 66 stiffly stifry Add whisked egg egg whites, whites. Put in aa buttered Put in buttered soufflé souffi6 dish dish and and cook cook whisked gently in in the the oven, oven. gently of ch.icken chicken soup. Cream of soup. CRÈME cniw DE DE VOLAILLE voLArLrJ -- Soup Soup made made Crerun with chicken chicken cooked cooked in in aa veal pounded to veal or or chicken chicken stock, stock, pounded to with pur6e and and finished finished with (See with velouté veloutd sauce sauce and and, cream. cream. (See aa purée souPs AND AND BROTHS,) BROTHS.) SOUPS poT,JLARDE souvmov- Stuffthe chicken Cticken Souvorov. Souyaro% POULARDE Ch.icken SOUVAROV - Stuff t he chicken gras and with chopped chopped foie and truffles, truffies, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and foie gras with spices and and aa few few drops drops of liqueur brandy. of liqueur brandy. spices Put the the chicken chicken in in aa covered pan with covered pan with some some butter butter and and Put cook until until three-quarters three-quarters done, done. Transfer Transfer the chicken to the chicken to aa cook casserole and and add add 88 medium-sized medium-sized truffles trufres which which have have been been casserole seasoned and and simmered in butter simmered in butter for for 55 minutes, minutes. seasoned juices diluted Moisten the the chicken chicken with with the the cooking cooking juices with diluted with Moisten Madeira, boiled boiled down and mixed mixed with (see down and with Rich Rich brown sauce (see brown sauce Madeira, juices. Co SAUCE) made made with with the the truffle trufre juices, Cover, and seal seal the lid the lid SAUCE) ver, and paste. with f1our-and-water flour-and-water pas Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen oven for for with te. Finish 20 to 25 minutes, minutes. to 25 20 poussrN Spring chicken. chicken POUSSIN This term can he term can be used used 10 to - This Spring describe aa newly newly hatched hatched chicken, chicken, but but the the flesh flesh of of such such aa descrihe young bird is so so soft soft and and insipid insipid that it is is scarcely that it scarcely edible, edible. ln In young bird is culinary terminology terminology the the word word poussin usually means means aa cuJinary poussin usually young chicken which is chicken which is sufficiently sufficiently well formed for its f1esh flesh young weil formed for ilS to all the and flavour. to have have ail the necessary necessary firmness firmness and flavour. The nameis alsogiven to aavery small chicken, chicken, ofwhich of which the The name is also given to very small the best chicken. These These have delicate flesh and best type type is is Hamburg Hamburg chicken, have delicate f1esh and can be any of small roasting can he prepared prepared in in any of the the ways ways given given for for small roasting chickens. chickens, poussrN (cold). Spriry chicken FROID - Prepared Prepared in in any any of of Spring cblcken (cold). POUSSIN FRorD the dishes. The The chicken chicken the ways ways given given for for cold co Id chicken chicken or or pigeon pigeon dishes. is withfoie gras and diced is stuffed stuffed with with forcemeat forcemeat or or withfoie gras and diced truffies. truffles, For For some some dishes dishes the the chickens chickens are are boned. boned, poussrN Spnry chicken EN coMporE COMPOTE - Stuffed Stuffed Spring cbicken en en compote. compote. POUSSIN EN with fine forcemeat forcemeat (made (made with with the the chicken chicken liver). liver), with aa fine Prepared asfor Compote of ofpigeon pigeon (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON), Prepared as for Compote poussrN Sprfug Spring chicken chlcken (fried). (fried). POUSSIN FRrr FRIT -- Cut Cut the the chicken chicken into into pieces of equal size and marinate pieces of equal size and marinate in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice juice and and salt salt and in flour, flour, coat coat with with egg egg and and breadbreadand pepper. pepper. Roll Roll the the pieces pieces in crumbs crumbs and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon Jemon quarters. q uarters. poussrN cnln6 A u Spring grilled chicken i la diable. Spring chlcken grilled à la diable. POUSSIN GRILLÉ À LA DIABLE - Prepared asfor Grilled chickm d la diable. DIABLE - Prepared as for Grilled chicken à la diable, Spring Spring chickcn ch.icken in in marinade marinade (fried). (fried). poussrN POUSSIN EN EN MARTNADE MARINADE (rntr) (FRIT) - Cut Cut the the chicken chicken in in quarters quarters and and take take out out the the small small juice, bones. Marinate in oil, lemon salt, pepper, pepper, and and bones. Marinate in oil, lemon juice, salt, chopped chopped herbs. herbs, Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in aa light light batter batter and and fry fry in in deep deep fat. fat. Drain, TomalO Drain, and and garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley, Serve Serve with with Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). This This dish dish is is often often incorrectly incorrectly served served under under the the name name of of fritot frllOt of of chicken; chicken; butfritot but frllOt denotes denotes previously previously cooked cooked subsu bstances. stances. pETrrs pols preSpring Spring chicken chicken with with peas. peas. poussrN POUSSIN Ar.x AUX PETITS POIS -- Prepared pared as as for for Pigeon Pigeon with with peas peas (see (see PIGEON). PIGEON). pdrraoxr,lrsB Sprfug Spring chicken chicken iil la la pidmontaise. piémontaise. poussrN POUSSIN AÀ r.l LA PIÉMONT AISE the chicken with --- Fill Fill the chicken with fine fine forcemeat, forcemeat, the the chopped chopped liver liver and and aa little little onion onion lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter. butter, Truss Truss as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook in butter, Cook in butter, browning browning itit all ail over. over. Drain, Drain, and and remove rem ove th1 the trussing trussing strings. strings. Surround Surround the the chicken chicken with with aa risotto. risotto, Dilute Dilute

the juices with with white white wine, wine, thickened gravy and veal gravy thickened brown brown veal and aa thejuices little tomato pur6e. Boil pour over tomato purée. Boil down down together and pour together and over the the little chicken. chicken, poussrN ÀA LA por,oN,l,rsr poloneise. POUSSIN Spring chicken chicken àI la la polonaise. u POLONAISE Sprlng gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) Stuffa chicken with with àri gratinforcemeal FORCEMEAT) Stuff a chicken mixed with with soaked soaked bread, bread, butter butter and parsley. and chopped chopped parsley. mixed Cook in in aa casserole, Finish as casserole. Finish polonaise. as for for Chicken Chicken àd la la polonaise, Cook poussrN RÔTI Roasted spring sprlng ch.icken. chickeh. POUSSIN garni, ROTr -- Put Puta bouquet garni, Roasted a bouquel tablespoon butter butter and and the the chopped chopped liver, liver, weil seasoned with with well seasoned 1I tablespoon pepper and salt and grated nutmeg, and pepper and grated nutmeg, inside inside the Truss, the chicken, chicken. Truss, salt bard with put on with bacon bacon fat fat and and put good on the the spil. spit. Cook Cook on on aa good bard heat, basting basting frequently. frequently. heat, Arrange on long dish dish and and garnish garnish with on aa long with cress, cress. Hand Hand the Arrange the juices separately, separately. juices Spring ch.icken chicken liI la (Prosper Salles' la sicilienne sicilienne (Prosper Salles' recipe). recipe). Spring poussrN A LA r,e SICILIENNE (q.v.) in srcu,rsNNE -- Cook Cook some lasagne (q,v,) some lasagne in salt salt POUSSIN À water. Drain Drain and and reheat reheat for for aa few few moments moments in in hot hot butter. water. pur6e of with aa purée nuts. Season of pistachio nuIS. Season weil well and and allow allow to Bind with to cool. Stuff Stuffthe chicken with this this mixture and and trus5 truss as as for for spit spit cool. the chicken roasting. Cook good heat, Cook at at aa good heat, basting frequently. When basting frequently, roasting, When thiee-quarters cooked sprinkle sprinkle with grated breadwith freshly freshly grated breadthree-q uarters cooked crumbs and and let let itit col colour. the juices separately, separately. crurnbs OU!', Hand thejuices poussrN À Spring chlcken chicken liI la la tartare. tartare. POUSSIN rmrlnr -- Split A LA r,a TARTARE Split Spring the chicken chicken down the the back, back, season, season, brush over over with melted melted the and sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. Grill on aa gentle heat. butter and (see SAUCE), Serve with with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). Serve poussrN À Spring ch.icken chicken liI la la viennoise. POUSSIN A LA L,q, VIENNOISE vleNxorsE -Spring Divide the quarters. Season, the chicken chicken into into quarters, Season, sprinkle sprinkle with Divide flour, and coat with egg and breadcrumbs. Brown them well fioul', (or lard), or fry in deep fat. both sides sides in clarified butter (or on both with fried parsley quarters. Garnish with parsley and lemon quarters, Chicken Stanley. POULARDE IoULARDE STANLEY srANLEy -- Poach the chicken Chicken in chopped onions have been in a white stock to which 44large large chopped added. Put the chicken on a dish and surround with 20 20large added. large mushrooms and 8 tartlets filled with chopped chopped truflles, truffies. Finish u for SautCed chickm Stanley, Stanley. Sautüd chicken Finish as Sttrd chicken Sl:Uffed ch.icken iil I'ariegeoise. l'ariégeoise. pouLET POULET r,mcl FARCI A À L'ARrfL'ARlÉcEoIsE -- Stuff Stuff the chicken with forcemeat made as follows: GEOISE oz.) crustless squeeze and put in soak 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 OL) crustless bread in milk, squeeze a basin. 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) oz,) chopped raw ham, the chopped basin, Add Add 100 chicken liver gpzzard,2 liver and and gizzard, 2 finely chopped cloves of of garlic garlic and 2 and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion cooked lightly lightly in in fat. Bind Bind with an egg egg and the the blood blood of of the chicken. chicken, Season Season with with salt, pepper pepper and grated nutmeg. nutmeg, Add I1 tablespoon spoon chopped parsley. parsley, Truss the Cook in aa pot-au-fat pot-au-feu with with the chicken as as for for boiling. boiling, Cook a piece piece of of beef beef and and a piece piece of of chined salt salt pork pork (pork back). back), Take Take the the trussing trussing strings offthe off the cooked chicken chicken and and garnish garrush with of stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, potatoes potatoes sliced sliced and cooked cooked in in with balls balls of the pot-au-feu broth, broth, and and the the boned boned and and sliced sliced pork. pork, the pot-au-fan Serve with TomalO sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with with Tomato garlic. garlic, The The pot-au-fat pOl-au:feu broth broth is is served served as as aa soup, soup, with with rice rice or or vermicelli. vermicelli, Strffed la mode mode de de Sorges Sorges @6rigord (périgord cookery). cookery). Sluffed chicken chickell iil la pouLET POULET rlncl FARCI A À LA LA MoDE MODE DE DE soRGEs SORGF~~ -- Stuff Stuff the the chicken chic ken with with forcemeat ofchopped chopped chicken chicken liver, liver, stale stale breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, forcemeat made made of chopped chopped bacon, bacon, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chopped chopped spring spring onions, onions, chopped chopped garlic, garlic, all ail well weil seasoned seasoned with with chopped shallot shallot and and chopped salt, pepper and and grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and and bound bound with with the the blood blood of of salt, pepper the the chicken chicken and and eggyolks. eggyolks, Brown Brown the the chicken chicken all ail over over in in goose goose fat. fat. Put Put itinamarmite it in a marmite and and cover cover with with boiling boiling water. water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil and and skim. skim, Add Add 33 carrots, carrots, 22 turnips, tumips, the the white 3leeks, I1celery of3leeks, celery heart, heart, I\ large large onion anion stuck stuck with with white parts parts of I1clove, clove, and and beet beet stalks stalks tied tied in in aa bunch. bunch, Cook Cook very very slowly slowly for for I1hour. hour. Drain Drain the the chicken, chicken, remove rernove the the trussing trussing strings, strings, and and garnish gamish with with the the sliced sliced carrots carrots and and turnips. tumips.

*

236 236

CHICKEN CHICKEN Serve with with Sorges Sorges sauce, sauce, which which is is aa highly highly seasoned seasoned Serve [vinaigrette sauce sauce with with chopped chopped parsley, parsley, spring spring onions onions and and vinaigrette ,shallotsadded, added,bound boundwith with22egg eggyolks yolkscooked cooked for for 33minutes minutes shallots these eggs, boil ingwater. wa ter.Finish Finishwith withthe thewhites whi tesofofthese eggs,recooked recooked ininboiling thechicken chickenbroth broth and and cut cutinindice. dice. in l in the Suprêmes of ofchicken cbicken. suPRtMEs SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE -- The The breast breast Supr0mcs and wings wings of of poultry, poultry, removed removed when when raw. raw. Also Aiso known known as as and côtelettes orfilets, or filets, and and served served as as small small entCes. entrées. c\telettei When suprAmes suprêmes ofofpoulardes poulardes or or fat fat hens hens are are used, used, they they are are When divided into into22or or33slices, slices, flattened, flattened, trimmed trimmed into into oval oval shapes, shapes, 1divided and cooked cooked like Iike chicken chicken c6telettes. côtelettes . and Suprêmes of of chicken chicken ambassadrice. ambassadrice. supntuns SUPR~MES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE SuprGmes AMBASSADRICE -- Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with chicken chicken livers livers AMBAssADRIcB sautéed in in butter, butter, cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, and and truffies truffles cutcut saut6ed into the the shape shape of of olives. olives. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices juices with with Madeira Madeira' into and thickened thickened brown brown veal veal gravy. gravy. Pour Pour over over the the dish. dish. and Place on on top top of of the* these suprdmes suprêmes the the filets filets mignons mignons' (pieces (pieces Place which lie lie against against the the breast breast bone), bone), studded with trufles. truffles. which Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Cam6rani. Camérani. supn8uns SUP~MES DE DE VoLAILLE VOLAILLE Supr6mes CAMÉRANI - Coat Coat the suprAmes suprêmes with with a mixture of egg and crufnlm breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Saut6 Sauté in butter. butter. breadcrumbs juices, Place on on aa bed bed of ofnoodles. Makeaa sauce saucewith panjuices, with the pan noodles. Make Place 1 gravy, to ! mixed mixed with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened brown veal veal gravy, which has has been been added added 1 tablespoon ta blespoon iulienne julienne (q.v.) (q. v.) of celery which truffles, cooked in butter butter until tender. and truffies, DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Car0me. Carême. supnf;runs SUPRÊMES DE Supr0mes CA~ME - Slit open fil 1 with aa thick mushand fill suprAmes and opur the suprêmes cAnEus and purée, to which a fine fine julienne julienne (q'v.) (q.v.) of cocks' combs and ofcocks' room pur6e, truffles has has been been added. Sauté Saut6 in butter. truffies Place on in butter. fried in butter' Garnish with bread fried cro0tons of bread on croûtons Place Chicken iltto olive olive cut into truffies cut quenelles (see QUENELLES), Chicken quenelles QUENELLES), truffles veal shapes, thickened brown veal use thickened sauce use shapes, and mushrooms. For sauce mignons, gravy the filets Put the and butter. butter. Put gravy with with tomato tomato and filets mignons, studded supr0mes. of the suprêmes. pickled tongue, on top top of tongue, on with pickled studded with Suprêmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE swnElrars DE la florentine. florentine. SUP~MES chicken àI la of chicken Supr6mes of À until chicken stock stock until or chicken in veal veal or Poach in A LA FLoRENTINE - Poach r,c, .FLORENTINE three-quarterscooked. SAUCE) Mornay sauce(see SAUCE) with Mornaysauce(see Coat with three-quarters cooked. Coat to with Sprinkle with added. Sprinkle has been been added. essence has chicken essence which chicken to which grated quickly. brown quickly. and brown grated Parmesan Parmesan and Suprêmes voLAILLE DE VOLAILLE supnBMes DE Gabrielle. SUPR~MES chicken GabrieUe. of chicken Supr6nes of GABRIELLE the detaching the without detaching suprAmes, without the suprêmes, Remove the cABRIELLE - Remove (q-v.) filets mignons. .v.) mirepoix (q of mirepoix layer of thin layer with aa thin Cover with filets mignons. Coyer cooked breadand breadwith egg egg and Coat with tender. Coat until tender. in butter butter until cooked in crumbs. in butter. butter. Saut6 in crumbs. Sauté Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnf;uns DE I'imsriale. SUPRÊMES chicken àt l'impériale. of chicken Supr6mes of ÀA L'IMPÉRIALE of with semi-circles semi-circles of supr4me.l with the suprêmes Studthe r'itpfruaLp - Stud [ruffles stock. white stock. Cook inin white pickled tongue. tongue. Cook and pickled truffies and Fill crlme pur6e of of truffles trufres àdlalacrème with aa purée barquettes with Fill cooked cooked barquettes and sauce SuprAmesauce with Suprême lightly with Coat lightly supr1mes. Coat put inin the the suprêmes. and put (see mignons, studded with truffies, on trufres, on (see SAUCE). thef/etsmignons,studdedwith Putthefilets SAUCE). Put top of the thesuprêmes. supr€me* top of Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE supnBursDE marquise. SUP~MES chickenmarquise. ofchicken Supr€mesof MARQUISE puff ofpuff bouchiesof tvtthbouchées Garnishwith butter.Garnish Saut6 ininbutter. MARQUIsE - - Sauté pastry and kidneysand combs, kidneys cocks'combs, ofcocks' salpiconof pastry filled with aasalpicon flled with truffles juices with withcream, cream' panjuices thepan Dilute the cream. Oilute withcream. boundwith iruffies bound totowhich tabletablespoons(3(3tableand22tablespoons butterand added butter hasbeen beenadded whichhas spoons) put andput sauceand thissauce withthis suprAmes with thesuprêmes Coat the truffies. Coat spoons)truffles. filets mignons, poached ininwhite stock, on top. top. on white stock, poached mignons, filets Suprêmes voLAILLE DEVOLAILLE suPRtMEs DE Montpensier.SUPR~MES ofchicken chickenMontpensier. Supr6mesof MONTPENSIER - Coat andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs withegg eggand suprAmeswith thesuprêmes r,{oNrpsNsrER - Coatthe and tipsinin asparagus tips withasparagus Garnishwith butter'Garnish themininbutter. andsauté saut6them butter Dot suprAme'Dot eachsuprême. oneach truffieon oftrume puttwo slicesof twoslices andput butterand with butters)' (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Norieitebutter with Noisette For use thickened brown veal gravy. Forsauce sauce use thickened brown veal gravy. Suprêmes of chicken à la Périgueux. SUPRÊMES DE VOLAILLE Supr6mes of chicken t la P6rigueux. supn0Mss DE VoLAILLE À LA PÉRIGUEUX fried putononcroûtons cro0tonsfried andput butterand Saut6ininbutter A r,c, pfRrcuEux- -Sauté ininbutter. Demi withDemicoatwith andcoat truflesand withsliced slicedtruffles Garnishwith butter.Garnish glace (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira. glacesauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with Madeira. 1

1

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DE VoLAILLE Supr0mes Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Pojarski. Pojarski. supnBurs SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE Add 50 g. (2 oz., suprdmes. of the flesh the Chop POJARSKI - Chop the flesh of the suprêmes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., g. (2 and squeezed, in milk soaked I1cup) breadcrumbs, cup) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk and squeezed, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., *t cup) cup) butter, butter, and and I1 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Season Season flour wprAmes. Reshape the withsalt, with salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Reshape the suprêmes, flour lightly and saut6 sauté in in butter. butter. lightly and Garnish Garnish with with aa green green vegetable vegetable cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and dot dot with with Noiselte Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters)butters). VoLAILLE DE princesse. supnBuns Supr6mes Suprêmes of of chicken cbicken princesse. SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE pRINcEssB PRINCESSE -- Cook Cook in in veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Put Put the the suprdmes suprêmes on on crofitons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnish garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips tips in in with Allemande butter butter and and coat coat with Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE)' SAUCE). Place Place mignons, Put thefilets suprAme. two two slices slices of of trufres truffies on on each each suprême. Put thefilets mignons, studded studded with with truffies, truffles, on on top. top. DE VoLAILLE Supr6mcs Suprêmes of of chicken chicken Richelieu. Richelieu. supnBuns SUP~MES DE VOLAILLE in and sauté saut6 in and breadcrumbs egg and nrcnrrnu RICHELIEU - Coat Coat with with egg breadcrumbs and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see butter. butter. Dot Dot with with Maitre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter oneachsuprAme. of trufre on put 44 slices and put slices oftruffle Compoundbutterst) Compound butters) and each suprême. RossIM DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE ROSSINI chicken Roasini. Supr0me of Suprême of chicken Rossini. suprBurs SUP~MES DE Garnish in butter. fried in butter. Garnish put on on croûtons cro0tons fried and put Saute in in butter, butter, and - Sauté trufles. and sliced sliced truffles. g/at sautéed in butter, butter, and saut6ed in of foie gras with slices slices of with (se SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see with Madeira Madeira sauce Coat with supnturs vegetable* SUP~MES various vegetables. with various of chicken, chicken, with SuprGmes of Suprêmes and supr€mes and the suprêmes Season the DIvERs -- Season Lux LÉGUMES lfcuurs DIVERS DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE AUX DE in butter. butter. saut6 in sauté diced vegetables: diced following vegetables: of the the following with any any of Garnish with Garnish braised peeled mushrooms, mushrooms, braised in butter, butter, peeled fried in aubergines fried aubergines in butter, butter, and simmered simmered in in chunks chunks and cut in cucumber eut endives, cucumber endives, of macCdoine of lettuce, macédoine braised lettuce, in butter, butter, braised French beans beans in French aspara' hfranPaise, asparaot àd lafrançaise, peas in in butter butter or in butter, butter, peas vegetables in vegetables pur6es. vegetable purées. or cream, cream, vegetable gus tips in butter butter or tips in gus juices, mixed wine white wine with white mixed with cooking juices, the cooking use the Foi sauce sauoe use For gravY. veal gravy. brown veal and thickened thickened brown and VERDI DE VOLAILLE VoLAILIJ VERDI supnElrlrs DE Verdi. SUP~MES dchicken Suprames of Suprêmes chicken Verdi. pastry shell filled shell filled inaapastry Put them them in in butter. butter. Put suprhmes in the suprêmes Saute the Sauté gras.Put Put two two pur6e of of foie with purée bound with macaroni bound with diced diced macaroni foie gras. with lightly wi with coatlightly and coat suprdme and eachsuprême top of ofeach on top of truffie trufle on slices of th slices Marsala. with Marsala. (se SAUCE), finished with SAUCE), finished sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace and eggand coated inin egg slices, coated cut inin slices, Add the mignons, cut the filets Add filets mignons, in butter. butter. andsautéed saut6ed in breadcrumbs and breadcrumbs pounos ÀAL'ESTRAGON Poach L'rsrRlGoN - - Poach tarragon J.I. POULARDE with tarragon Chicken with Chicken Decorate oftarragon. tarragon. Oecorate withaabunch bunchof white stock stock with chicken ininwhite aachicken chicken thechicken over the Pourover leaves. Pour tarragon leaves. blanched tarragon with blanched with and liquor,strained strainedand cookingliquor, thecooking ofthe tablespoons of several tablespoons several has tarragonhas choppedtarragon whichchopped arrowrool totowhich witharrowroot, thickened with thickened added. beenadded. heen poJARsKI

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withtarragon Chickenwith tarragon Chicken

237 237

CHICK.PEA CHICK-PEA pouuq,nnr

Chicken with withtarragon tarragonn. If.POULARDE ÀAL'ESTRAGON r'rsrR^ec,oN- - Cook Cook Chicken the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve the chicken in butter in a covered dish in the oven. To serve pour over it the cooking juices, diluted with white wine and pour over it the cook.ing juices, diluted with white wine and thickened veal gravy, to which a handful ofchopped tarragon thickened veal gravy, to which a handful of chopped tarragon has been added. has been added. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROOTES. Chicken timbale. See TIMBALE, CROÛTES. pouLARDE ,l LA rosclNs Chicken ài lalaToscane. Toscane. POULARDE Stuff the the À LA TOSCAl'\E - - Stuff Chlcken chicken wi with 100g.g. (4(4 oz., oz.,l1 cucup) cooked spaghetti, spaghetti, 100 100g.g. chicken th 100 p) cooke
nosae)originating originatingininthe the Mediterranean Mediterranean area, area, one onespecies species of of I/osae) whichisiscultlvated cultivated ininFrance. France. which south-western France France chick-peas chick-peas are are cooked cooked enen lnIn south-western estoufade (q.v.). (q.v.). They They are are used usedinin Spain greatdeal, Spainaagreat deal, being being eSlouffade an essential essential ingredient ingredient of of many many soups. soups. Chick-peas Chick-peas are arealso also an popular inin North very popular North Arrica, Africa, where where lhey partof they are are part of the the very garnish for for the the classic classic couscous. couscous. garnisn Chick-peas Catalan Catalan style. style. POIS nors CHICHF,S cHrcHEsÀALA m CATALANE c^a.rnrANE -Chick-peas Soak the the chick-peas chick-peas untiJ until they quite soft. they become become quite Boil inin soft. Boil Soak water with with aa vegetable vegetable garnish garnish (for (for example, example, white white dried dried water beans), aa bouquet garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and bouquet garni piece of and aa piece of bacon. bacon. Season Season heans), with salt pepper. AdJ salt and and pepper. Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons oil oil to to form form aa with layer of of fat fat on on the the surface. surface. Add Add Spanish Spanish sausages sausages called called layer chorizos. Simmer Simmer very gently for very gently for about about 44 hours. hours. chorizos. Drain the the chick-peas, chick-peas, remove remove the vegetable garnish and the vegeta and Drain hIe garnish garni and the bouquet bouquet garni put the and put the chick-peas chick-peas into into aa saucepan. saucepan. the Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons tomato pur6e, the tomato purée, the chorizos chorizos and and the the Add bacon eut in unifonn pieces. Add cut in uniform pieces. Add aa pinch pinch of garlic and of garlic and aa few few hacon tablespoons of of the the liquid liquid left left over over from from boiling boiling the the chickchicktablespoons peas. Simmer Simmer for for 1I hour. hour. peas.

(U.S. Endive). CHICORY (V.S. Endive). ENDIVE nNorw -- Magdehourg Magdebourg chicory chicory isis CHICORY known in in France France and and U.S.A. U.S.A. as as endive endive and and in in Belgium, known grown in where itit is is grown quantities, as large quantitîes, in large as chicorée chicorie de de Bruxelles, Bruxelles, where (goat's witloof or or barbe-de-bouc barbe-de-bouc (goat witloof 's beard). Chicory roots, grown Ln roots, grown in the the dark, dark, are are white and and delicate. delicate. Clticory Chicory cornes comes into into season season in in Octoher October and and isis availahle available Chicory throughout the the win winter. It isis eaten eaten raw raw in salads, salads, or cooked in throughout ter. ft various ways. ways. various Method of of cooking. Trim and wash the cooking. Trim the chicory, leaving ilit Method in water for as short a a time as as possible. in water for as possible. Place in in aa saucepan (l oz.,2 g. (1 with 25 25 g. o2'2 tahlespoons) juice tablespoons) butter, aa pinch of salt, juice with (6 tablespoons, of I dl. (6 and 1 scant * of f~ lemon lernon and tablespoons, seant t cup) water, for (generous 1 500 g. I lh.) lb.) chicory. Cover and bring boil. 500 g. (generous hring to the hoil. Simmer Simmer steadily steadily for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Another Trim and chicory and place in a Anolher method. method. Trim and wash the chicory saucepan saucepan with with 50 50 E.(2 g. (2 oz.,* OZ., t cup) butter, hutter, a pinch of of salt and a few few drops drops of of lemon lernon juice. juice. Cover Cover and stew stew for 45 minutes. Chicory in this Chicory cooked cooked in Ibis way way can can be he used used for the recipes given given below. helow. Chicory Chicory should should never never be be parboiled parhoiled before before stewing. stewing. Chicory Chicory irà la la bechamel. béchamel. nNnrvns ENDIVES A À re LA sfcHAMer BÉCHAMEL - Cook Cook the chicory chicory as as above. a hove. Cover with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE). and and the the cooking cooking stock, stock, boiled boiled down down with with butter. butter. Chicory Chicory with with brown brown or or noisette noisette butter. butter. ENDrvtrs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoIR Nom - Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the tbe first nrst recipe. recipe. Drain. Drain. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish. dish. Pour Pour on on lemon lemon juice juice and, and, just just before before serving, serving, hot hot Brown Brown or or Noisette Noiselle butter bu/ter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Chicory Chicory with with butter. butter. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Cook Cook as as in in first first recipe. recipe. Pour Pour on on the the stock stock with wi th aa piece piece of of butter butter added. added. Chicory Chicory chiffonnade. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE CHIFFONNADE D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES -- Remove Remove the the outer outer leaves. leaves. Wash, Wash, dry dry and and shred shred them them finely. finely. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, in in aa covered covered pan, pan, with with aa pinch pinc.:h of of salt salt and and sugar. sugar. Chicory Chîcory chiffonnade chiffonnade with with cream. cream. cHTFFoNNADE CHfFFONNADf. D'ENDrvEs D'ENDIVES IÀ uLA cniur CRÈME -- Cook Cook as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Five Five minutes minutes before before serving, serving, moisten moislen with with 22 dl. dl. (| (!- pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) boiling boiling cream. cream. Boil Boil fast fast for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Serve Serve with with the the cooking cooking stock stock and and fresh fresh butter. butter. Chicory Chicory ià la la flamande. flamande. ENDrvEs ENDIVES A À r,c LA TTAMINDE FLAMANDE -- another another name name for for Chicory Chicory with witlt butter. buller. Chicory Chicory fritots. fritots. ENDrvBs ENDIVES EN EN FRrror FRJTOT -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory as as in in the the first first recipe. recipe. Drain Draio and and dry. dry. Quarter Quarter the the shoots shoots and and steep in aa marinade marinade of of oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. steep in Before Before serving, serving, dip dip them them inin light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-f"ry. Serve Serve garnished. gaOlished. Chicory Chlcoryau augratin. gratin.ENDrvEs ENDIVESAU AU GRATTN GRATIN -- Cook Cook the the chicory chicory inin butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. pour Pour on on melted melled butter. the oven. oven. butter. Brown Brown inin the Chicory Chicory inin gravy. gravy. ENDrvEs ENDIVES AU AU JUS JUS -- Cook Cook as as in in the the first first

pon CHICK-PEA. Plant (of the family CHICHF. - Plant (of the family LegumiLegumiCHICK-PEA. POIS cHrcrrE 238 238

CHIFFONNADE CHIFFONNADE

(Mcolas) Chicory (Nicolas) Chicory

tablespoons few tablespoons pour on on aa few and pour dish and recipe. on aa dish Arrange on recipe. Arrange the of the stock of cooking stock and the the cooking veal stock stock and concentrated con;entrated brown veal chicory. chicory. cnscQUE A LA rl GRECQUE rNoIvEs À (hors-d'auvre). ENDIVES grecque (hors-d'œuvre). Chicory àdr la grecque cloth.. and dry dry inin aa cloth Wash and shoots. Wash -- Trim chicory shoots. Trim small small chicory la Artichokes àd la for Artichokes prepared as as for stock prepared Plunge into aa stock them into Plunge them recipe' in that that recipe. as in Finish as (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE) grecque grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE).. Finish Name unuNriinn -- Name rlr MEUNIÈRE ENDIvEs Àa, LA Chlcory la meunière. mermiire. ENDIVES Chicory àir la butter. used brown butter. with brown for Chicory Chicory with used for the Cook the rralrnNnlsn -- Cook Ln MILANAISE ENDIvEs ÀA LA Chlcory la milanaise. milanaise. ENDIVES Chicory àir la dish. an ovenproof ovenproof dish. on an Arrange on chicory recipe. Arrange first recipe. as in in the the first chicory as (see ASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS)' Proceed for Asparagus milanaise (see Asparagus àd lalamilanaise Proceed asasfor the Cook the tr{onNlv- - Cook Ll MORNAY ENDIvEs Ài LA Chicory Mornay. ENDIVES Chicory ài lala Mornay. dish ovenproof dish an ovenproof Arrange inin an recipe. Arrange chicory first recipe. in the as in the first chicory as conand the the con(seeSAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see and Mornay sauce with Mornay coverwith and coyer grated cheese. cheese. with grated Sprinkle with centrated chicory. Sprinkle of the thechicory. stock of centrated stock oven.. hot oyen veryhot Pour and brown brown ininaavery melted butter butterand onmelted Pour on poloNllsE- -Cook the Cook the rePOLONAISE ENDIvEs ÀALA Chicory polonaise. ENDIVES Chicoryài lalapolonaise. proceed andproceed dishand Arrange ininaadish chicory recipe.Arrange firstrecipe. thefirst chicory asasininthe (seeASPARAGUS). ASPARAGUS). polonaise (see asasfor Asparagusàdlalapolonaise for Asparagus punrn D'ENDIVES chicoryasas Cookthe thechicory Purée D'ENDIvES- - Cook ofchicory. Puree of chicory. puRÉE pur6eand and Heatthe thepurée sieve.Heat ininthe ub through through aasieve. recipe.RRub firstrecipe. thefirst add cream. little butter butterororcream. addaalittle fewtablespoons tablespoonsofof withaafew This pur6ecan thickened with can be bethickened This purée (seeSA SAUCE), sauce(see Béchamel UCE), ororaa Veloutisauce thickVelouté sauceororthick Bichamel sauce biown Concentratedbrown potatoes.Concentrated third mashedpotatoes. weightofofmashed itsweight thirdofofits veal added. maybebeadded. vealstock stockmay drythe the anddry Washand Chicory D'ENDIvns- - Wash slrlDED'ENDIVES salad.SALADE Chicorysalad. remaining theremaining Separate the chicory. leaves.Separate fadedIeaves. Removefaded chicory.Remove juice lemonjuice oil,lemon withoil, Seasonwith leaves . Season them' shredthem halveororshred andhalve leavesand ororvinegar, pepper. andpepper. vinegar,salt, salt,and alsobebe canalso shredded,can Chicory, wholeOrorshredded, leaveswhole theleaves withthe Chicory,with sauces). (seeSAUCE, Coldsauces). SAUCE,Cold dressed Mayonnaise(see withMayonnaise dressedwith intoa asalado salad. Cooked madeinto alsobebemade canalso chicorycan Cookedchicory

D'ENDIVE - Using cooked chicory sounruf D'ENDIVE sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Chicory souffli. Chicory - Using cooked chicory proceed asfor Endive souffid (see fine sieve, sieve, proceed rubbed through througb aa fine rubbed as for Endive soufflé (see ENDTVE). ENDIVE).

The wild chicory c.lrs -- The cHIcoREE ÀA CAFÉ COFFEE. CHlCORÉE CHICORY, COFFEE. CHICORY, wild chicory for coffee coffee since 1769. It substitute for as aa substitute used as has been been used root has root since 1769. It given rise to has and Germany and in Germany then in in Sicily, Sicily, then used in first used was first was has given rise to up-into cossettes,are roots, The industry. important an an important industry. The roots, cut -cut up into cossettes, are less finely' The different types or less more or powdered, more and powdered, dried and dried finely. The ditferent types selected ftom selected gros-grains, as commercially as gros-grains, from known commercially are known are cossetres; chicory small from (roots); demi-grains, cossettes cossettes (roots); demi-grains, from small cossettes; cbicory form' powder form. chicory inin powder and chicory courantes; and courantes; coffee, although this is than coffee, value than foodvalue more food has more Chicory has Chicory although this is small. It produces consumed isissmal!. amount consumed the amount impoitant asasthe not important not lt produces prevents andprevents properties, laxative properties, and with laxative infusion with dark infusion aa dark much real coffee too when occurs which poisoning laffeine caffeine poisoning which occurs when too much real coffee justifiably, do not allow the addiuddi"ts, justifiably, Coffeeaddicts. drunk. Coffee isisdrunk. do not allow the addicoffee' chicory inincoffee. anychicory ofany tionof tion

plants, foraUallplants, cookingfor usedinincooking Term used CHIFFONNADE- - Term CHIFFONNADE ribbons.ItItisis stripsororribbons. finestrips intofine cutinto otherwise, cut herbalororotherwise, herbai lettuce cut into andlettuce sorreland mixtureofofsorrel foraamixture usedfor specially used specially cut into butter. juliennestrips cookedininbutter. andcooked stripsand julienne for soups' garnish usedasasa agarnish areused chffinnade sare ihechiffonnades ofthe Mostof Most for soupS. cHIFFoNNADE DE in butter. cooked chiffonnade Lettuce Lettuce chiffonnade cooked in butter. CHIFFONNADE DE finely, lettucefinely, leavesofofa alettuce theleaves Slicethe BEURRE- - Slice AUBEURRE LAITUEAU LAITUE lettuce in a slicedlettuce Putthe thesliced leaves.Put coarserleaves. thecoarser asidethe leavingaside in a leaving forevery every butterfor tablespoons) butter panwith tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) *1th22tablespoons pan gently until the liquor cookgently andcook Seasonand lettuce.Season oz.)lettuce. 2SOg.g.(8(goz.) 250 until the liquor evaporated. hasevaporated. has LArruE cHIFFoNNADE cream. with chifronnadewith cream. CHIFFONNADE DEDELAITUE Lettucechiffonnade Lettuce Lettuce chffinnade wayasasLettuce sameway thesame cnDMs-Prepared À ALAr-a,CRÈME - Prepared ininthe chiffonnade moisten softened,moisten hassoftened, lettucehas thelettuce Whenthe buttei.When cookedininbutter. cooked down until the andboil boildown creamand freshcream fewtablespoons tablespoonsfresh witha afew until the with 239 239

CHIMNEY HOOK

CHIMNEY HOOK

liquor has evaporated. Iiquor haschffinnade evaporated. This can also be moistened with cream sauce. chiffonnade can also be moistened with cream sauce. This Mixed chiffonnade (garnish for soups).CHIFFONNADE cHTFFoNNADE Mixed chiffonnade (gamish for soups). MELANGEE - Prepared in the same way as iettuce chiffonnade, MELANGÉE - Prepared in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade, with a mixture of equal parts of sorrel and lettuce lJaves. withSorrel a mixture of equal parts ofsorrel and lettuce le.aves. chiffonnade. cHTFFoNNADE D'osErLLE _ prepared Sorrel chiJfonnade. CHIFFONNADE D'OSEILLE - Prepared with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce cntXonniae. tt with sorrel leaves in the same way as Lettuce chiffonnade. It potage t!_lrg specially for sanft (see SOUPSAND AND isBROTHS). used specially for Potage santé (see SOUPS BROTHS). CHIMNEY HOOK. cnfumrinr - A toothed pot-hook CHIMNEY HOOK. CRÉMAILLÈRE - A toothed pot-hook used for suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in usedThe. for symbolic suspending cauldrons and cooking pots in chimneys. "hi-rr"yr. expression pendre ta ueiaiilire (to hangup up -The symbolic expression la crémaillère (to hang the chimney hook) means pendre the first meal in a new home. the chimney hook) means the first meal in a new home. CHINA See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINA - -See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. CHINCHARD - See SAUREL. CHIN CHARD - See SA UREL. CHINE. cHATNE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a CHINE. CHAINE - The bony part adhering to the fillet of a loin. of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the 6ony part of a rib loin of veal, mutton, lamb or pork, or the bony part of a rib or sirloin of beef. or sirloin of beef.

pE-TSAI.CHOU CHINESECABBAGE CABBAGEororPE-TSAI. _ This cHouDEDE CHINESE CHINE - This cHrNE fairlycommon commoncabbage cabbagehas has ovalheart heartwith ananoval fairly withvery verytightly tightly closedleaves. leaves. closed Allrecipes recipesgiven givenforforgreen green cabbagecan canbebeused. also cabbage used.It Itcan can also _Ail usedininraw rawsalad, salad,ororinina amarinade, marinade,like likered bebeused redcabbage. cabbage. (FruiQ- -French CHINOIS(Fruit) Frenchname namefor forsmall greenororyellow smallgreen CHINOIS yellow Chineseoranges, oranges,which whichare preservedininbrandy. arepreserved braridy. Chinese

rwoll:::ffiinois Two types of chinois (Larousse)

(Utensil)-- ConicaI CHINOIS (Utensil) Conicalstrainer CHINOIS strainerwith withaafine finemesh. mesh. CHIPOLATA Garnish of ofbraised CHIPOLATA -- Garnish braisedchestnuts, chestnuts, smal! glazed smallglazed onions, diced diced breast breast of pork, chipolata of pork, chipolata sausages, onions, somesausages, and andiome_ glazed carrots times glazed (see GARNISHES). carrots (see GARNISHES). Applies times eppiiesalso alsototo cuts of of butcher's butcher's meat meat and and to to chicken. cuts chicken. Chipolata was originally originally an an ltalian Italian ragoût ragoitt with with an an onion onion ^ Chipolata was foundation. The word word isis also foundation. The also applied applied to to small small sausages sausages enclosed in in sheep's sheep's intestines. intestines. enclosed

CHIQUETER -- To To indent indent the CHIQUETER the margins margins of of aa vol-au-vent vol-au_ventcase, case, the rim rim ofa of a tart, tart, or gdteau, with or gâteau, the with aa small small knife. knife.

Chinese artichoke

Chinese artichoke

CHINESE ARTICHOKE. cRosNE DE JApoN plant CHINESE ARTICHOKE. CROSNE DE JAPON Plant originating in china and Japan, first cultivated in France for originating in China and Japan, first cultivated in France for its edible tubers, at crosnes (seine-et-oise). It is arso called its edible tubers, at Crosnes (Seine-et-Oise). It is also called knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. knotroot, chorogi and Japanese artichoke. vegetable, Tubers _This -are This vegetable, delicious delicious when when fresh, fresh, is is white. white. Tubers which have dried soating, are which have dried out out and and been been revived revived by by soaking, sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recogniied by a Siown sometimes sold as fresh, and can be recognised by a brown discolouration. discoJouration. The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly The Chinese artichoke is rich in carbohydrates, mostly sugars..It hasa pleasant, though rather insipid, tasie and is sugars. It has a pleasant, though rather insipid, taste and is easily digested. easily digested. Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of Put the tubers in a strong linen cloth with a handful of sea-salt, and shake them well. Wash them and ..mou" uny sea-salt, and shake them weil. Wash them and rem ove any skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. simmer in butter skin that is left. Blanch in salted water. Simmer in butter without allowing them to brown. without allowing them to brown. Tubers prepared in this way can be served as thev are as a Tubers prepared in this way can be served as they are as a vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. vegetable, or used to garnish a roast. They can-also be prepared d la uime, aux . They fines herbes, herbes, au au can also be prepared à la crème, auxfines jus and in aU the theways ways given given for for Jerusalem Jerusalem aitichokes artichokesfq.u.j. (q,v.). jus and in all

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Chives Chives

CHMS. CHIVES. crBouLETTE, CIBOULETTE, crvETTE CIVETTE - Chives Chives are are used used as as aa seasoning, seasoning, mainly mainly in in salads. salads.

-

CIILORIDE. CmORIDE. orr CHLORE Metalloid that that enters enters the the system system in in onr -- Metalloid

the ofsodium sodium chloride. chloride. ItIt isis found found in in most most of of ihe the bodv body the form form of tissues tissues and and body body liquids, liquids, particularly particularly the the blood. blood.

In In certain certain illnesses illnesses a a salt-reduced salt-reduced (salt-free) (salt-free) diet diet isis prescribed. prescribed. This This requires requires not not only only the the drastic drastic cutting cutting down down of of condiments condiments but but also also the the elimination elimination of of foods foods -rich rich inin chloride. chloride. CHOCOLATE. CHOCOLATE.csocor.trCHOCOLAT-The Thedried, dried,roasted roastedand andpolished polished 'nibs' 'nibs' or or almonds almonds of ofthe the cacao cacao bean bean are are crushed, crushed, and and the the resulting of good good quality, quality, isis about about 50 50 per per cent cent resulting liquor, liquor, ifif of cocoa liquorisispartly partlydefatted, defatted,ititisiscobled cooledand and cocoafat. fat.When Whenthe theliquor solidifies solidifiesinto intoaahard hardblock, block,known knownasasbitter bitterchocolate. chocolate. This This isis used used for for baking bakinginin U.S.A. U.S.A. The The cooking cooking chocolate chocolate used used

Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai Chinese cabbage or Pe-tsai

240 240

CHOLESTEROL CHOLESTEROL bay, The The seasoning seasoning usually usually consists consists of of onions, onions, thyme, thyme, bay, with cloves, andsalt. salt.The Thesauce sauceisiscombined combined with c1oves,nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper pepperand (lambic). aaglass glass of ofMadeira, Madeira, or orstrong strongBelgian Belgianbeer beer (lambic). Brown Choesels Choeselsiàlalabruxelloise bruxelloise(Paul (PaulBouillard's Bouillard'srecipe) recipe)-- Brown an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

an ox tail, cut into pieces, together with two calf (U.S. veal)

clarified (4 oz., *1cup) sweetbreads sweetbreads in in 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., cup) smoking-hot, smoking-hot, clarified

Encyclopddie). The Themanufacture manufacture of ofchocolate chocolate(l'(l'Encyclopédie). From to right: From left leftto right: Sifting Siftingthe thealmonds almonds ofthe of the cacao cacao beans; beans; Roasting; Roasting; Grating Gratingthe the almonds; almonds; Crushing Crushing the thechocolate chocolate

most most in in England England and and Franc€ France is is aa mixture mixture of of the the chocolate chocolate with some sorne of of the the fat fat removed removed and and sugar sugar added. added. In In liquor with

England this this isis known known as as pure pure chocolate chocolate and and in in the the U.S.A. U ,S.A. as as England bitter-sweet chocolate. chocolate. Milk Milk chocolale chocolate has has powdered powdered or or conconbitier-sweet added to to the the sweetened sweetened chocolate chocolate and and is is densed milk milk added densed fiavoured with vanilla, almond, cinnamon, cinnamon, etc. etc. Chocolate Chocolate flavoured used used in confectionery confectionery to coat sweets has has added added cocoa cocoa fat. fat. Cocoa is is made from powdered chocolate chocolate which which contains con tains Cocoa 18 per cent fat. only l8 Chocolate is is a a concentrated concentrated food, food, but but should should not not be be ihocolate abused. The The cocoa from from which it it is is made contains con tains theotheoabused. caffeine, which bromine -- a nitrogenous nitrogenous substance similar similar to to caffeine, which bromine a stimulating effect on on the nervous system, system, and and makes makes stimulatingeffect has a also but also intellectual fatigue fatigue - but chocolate an excellent excellent tonic for intellectual and those obese and the obese is harmful to which is calcium to the those calcium oxalate, which with rheumatic or liver complaints. Vitamin and Vitamin phosphates and calcium, phosphates in calcium, rich in is rich Chocolate Chocolate is is therethereand is irelps the bones to absorb calcium -- and D -- which helps and workers and heavy workers valuaUh food for children, athletes, heavy fore a valuable for recommended for not recommended It isis not in moderation. It but in intellectuals, but diabetics, for diabetics, nor for constipation, rheumatism, nor from constipation, sufferers sufferers from eaten It isis better better eaten chocolate. It special chocolate, own special who have their their own who have meals. between meals. who the Spaniards, Spaniards, who by the to Europe Europe by brought to was brought Chocolate Chocolate was through spread through Its use use spread 1519. Its in 1519. Mexico in in Mexico had had discovered discovered itit in after. soon after. Europe Europe soon the increasing the of increasing secret of the secret divulges the Brillat-savarin divulges Brillat-Savarin Mother d'Arestrel, Mother Mme. d'Arestrel, which Mme, of chocolate chocolate which fiavour flavour of revealed Belley, revealed at Belley, Visitation at of the the Visitation of the the Convent Convent of Superior Superior of the make itit the good chocolate, chocolate, I)1ake you want to taste taste good 'When you want to to to him: Lim: 'When chocoit. The leave it. pot, and The chocoand leave coffee pot, faience coffee in aa faience night before before in night gives itit aa this gives and this night and during the the night concentrated during late hG becomes becomes concentrated consistencY.' tency. ' m uch better much better consis 40 g.g. Use 40 (beverage). CHOCOLAT cuocolAr -- Use chocolate (beverage). of chocolate Preparation Preparation of liquid' of liquid. cup of breakfast cup for aa breakfast good sweet chocolate for sweet chocolate oi.) good (11 Qtr oz.) hot and hot water and little water pieces, add addaa little into pieces, chocolate into the chocolate Brlak the Break soften' pan, let chocolatesoften, thechocolate the pan, let the gently' Coyer Coverthe heat gently. milk and heat milk and paste. or Add 22or smooth pas into aasmooth whip into andwhip t[e heat heatand from the remove te. Add remove from paste, then then thepaste, dilute the todilute milk to or milk water or boiling water 33tablespoons tablespoons boiling or chocolate or Thechocolate time. The the time. all the stirring ail liquid, stirring ofthe theliquid, restof the therest boil. allowed totoboil. mustnever never be beallowed cocoa cocoa must and tripeand oftripe madeof ragofrt made (Belgran cookery) cookery)-A CHOESELS - A ragoût CHOESELS(Belgian pancreas. pancreas. meat, resembles meat, pancreas resembles removed,pancreas fatremoved, thefat with the C1eaned, Cleaned, with usually pancreas,which whichisisusually Beefpancreas, andelongated. elongated. Beef flatand but butisisfiat (18oz.). oz.). 500g.g.(18 about500 weighsabout forchoesels, choesels, weighs used usedfor partsof ofthe the otherparts byother supplemented by pancreasisisoften oftensupplemented Thepancreas The dish. thedish. flavourofofthe qualities totothe thefiavour addtheir theirqualities whichadd animal, animal, which breast andbreast sweetbreads,and calves'sweetbreads, quenellesof ofcaJves' kidneys, quenelles Ox-tail, Ox-tail, kidneys, choesels' featureininchoesels. feetoflamb of lambfeature andfeet and

gently for 45 beef temperature and and cook cook gently for 45 beef fat. fat. Reduce Reduce the the temperature veal, cut into pieces, and minutes. minutes. Add Add 11kg. kg. (2i (2ilb.) lb.) breast breastof ofveal, cut into pieces, and minutes, stirring. I1large large sliced sliced onion. onion. Cook Cook for for aa further further 30 30 minutes, stirring. pieces' When the kidney has Addl Add 1beef beefkidney, kidney, cut cutinto intolarge large pieces. When the kidney has (* pint, lf cups) lambic stiffened, stiffened, moisten moi sten the the stew stew with with 33dl. dl. (1 pint, li cups) lambic garni (q.v.). Season with salt (Belgian (Belgian beer). beer). Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with salt and and cayenne. cayenne. a bottle of Cooi< Cook gently gently for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to the the choesels choesels a bottle of cooking liquor of the (scant pint,2l cups) S at. lambic anO lambic and 5 dl. (scant pint, 2i cups) of the cooking liquor White from from some sorne mushrooms mushrooms (see (see COURT-BOUILLON, COURT-BOUILLON, White o oms). cour t-bouillon for for mushr mushrooms). court-bouillon Fatty substance rendered CHOLESTEROL. CHOLESTEROL. cnorrsrfnor CHOLESTÉROL -- Fatty substance rendered atheroma, of sufferers from diets The liver. by the assimilable from atheroma, assimilable by the liver. The diets ofsufferers contain arterioscleroiis, arteriosclerosis, gout gout and and liver liver complaints corn plaints should should contain only only moderate moderate amounts amounts of of cholesterol. cholesterol. contained in some Iielow is the the proportion proportion of of cholesterol cholesterol contained in sorne Below is foods: common common foods: 20.00 per 1000 Brains Brains 20·00 per 1000 4'00 ,, Butter Butter 4·00 1.50 ,, Calf's Calf's heart heart 1· 50 3'50 ,, Calf's Calf's kidney kidney 3· 50 4.50 ,, Calf's Calf's lights lights 4·50 2.50 ,, Calf's Calf's liver liver 2· 50 2'80 ), Calf's sweetbread Calf's 2·80 20'00 ,, Egg yolk Egg 20·00 " less than I per 1000' contain less foods contain Ot[er foods Other than 1 per 1000. (phytosterol and ergoplants (phytosterol in plants found in Two substances substances found Two and ergoTherefore cholesterol. Therefore to cholesterol. resemblance to strong resemblance bear aa strong sterol) bear sterol) that vegetables avoid must diets must cholesterol-reduced diets on cholesterol-reduced those on those avoid vegetables that such as the substances, two in these particularly rich are are particularly rich in these two substances, such as the beans, broad beans, lentils) (peas, chick peas, haricot haricot beans, pulsls (peas, chick peas, pulses broad beans, lentils) and mushrooms. mushrooms. and comes either from origin. It cornes dual origin. has aa dual Cholesterol has Cholesterol either from (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream' butter) foods cholesterol-rich cholesterol-rich foods (egg yolk, offal, milk, cream, butter) mainly by the liver. effected mainly synthesis effected of aa synthesis result of or as as the the resuIt or by the Iiver. form itself in the body to form continue to can therefore therefore continue Chblesterol can itself in the body Cholesterol is reduced. foods cholesterol-rich foods is reduced. of cholesterol-rich intake of when the the intake even when even It forms part functions. variety of wide has a Cholesterol Cholesterol has a wide variety of functions. It forms part it enters into the composition of membranes; cellular of the of the cellular membranes; it enters into the composition of plasma to ensure the transpresent in in the the plasma fats; itit isis present tissue fats; tissue to ensure the transliver where where they are the Iiver fats to to the reserve fats by reserve acids by ference of of acids ference they are up. burned burned up. acids which act as produces bile bile acids liver produces the liver Its oxidation oxidation inin the Its which act as intestine. in the the intestine. agent in an emulsifying emulsifying agent an seems hormones corticosurrenaloma of the the corticosurrenaloma honnones seems The synthesis synthesis of The cholesterol. of that parallel to course a follow to to follow a parallel course to that of cholesterol. with the the excessive wrestle with to wrestle matter to delicate matter While itit isisaadelicate While excessive very easy to put a internally, itit isis very cholesterol internally, of cholesterol formation of formation easy to put a by eliminating simply cholesterol of intake of cholesterol simply by eliminating excessive intake stopto toexcessive stop diet. thediet. from the foods from certain foods certain especially in the overweight, especially avoid becoming becoming overweight, One should should avoid One in the limit the the percentage of calories wisertotolimit and ititisiswiser fifties,and earlyfifties, early percentage of calories per cent. 30 fats toto30 per cent. fromfats derivedfrom derived be avoided: offal fatsshould should be animal fats containinganimal Allfoods foodscontaining avoided: offal Ali egg yolks, sweetbreads), kidneys, livers, (calves' and sheeps' (calves' and sheeps' Iivers, kidneys, sweetbreads), egg yolks, cream cheese milk,cream chocolate, milk, oysters, chocolate, margarine,oysters, butter,margarine, butter, cheese Port-Salut, Dutch, Gruydre,Port-Salut, quantities of ofGruyère, (apartfrom from small imallquantities (apart Dutch, potV', stews, sauc€s' charcuterie,pork, sauces, stews, cheeses),charcuterie, milkcheeses), andskimmed skimmedmilk and fats may be following the quantities of Small fried foods. fried foods. Small quantities of the following fats may be oil,sunfiower sunflower saffron oil, oil,saffron walnutoil, oil,walnut soyaoil, comoil, oil,soya eaten:corn eaten: from first pressing' oilfrom oliveoil virginolive alsovirgin andalso grapeseedoil, oil,and oil,grapeseed oil, first pressing.

sweetbread yolk

,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,, ,,

It

241 241

CHOPE CHOPE Allowed. Grilld roasted red (inmoderation), redmeats meats(in moderation), Allowed. Grilled ororroasted fish. fish. Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, Recommended. Vegetables (French beans, endive, spinach, celery, leeks, beetroot, carrots, carrots, tomatoes, tomatoes,aubergines, aubergines, ail all celery, leeks, beetroot, types of green salad vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, vegetables, asparagus, sorrel, onions, types of green salad artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), all kinds artichokes, melon, cucumber, radishes, potatoes), ail kinds of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). of fruit (but not walnuts, hazelnuts, chestnuts, and almonds). CHOPE Goblet of glass or earthenware, containing about ofglass CHOPE -- Goblet or earthenware, containing about litre (12fl. oz.), used for beer. t] litre (12 ft. oz.), used for beer.

CHOPINE- Old measure measureforwine, (lgft.fl.oz.). equal to totIlitre oz.). CHOPINE- Old for wine, equal litre (18 CHOPPING. sr,cnlcr - French term for chopping food is CHOPPING. HACHAGE - French term for chopping food is hachage or hachement. hachage or hachement. Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as Hachage can also mean food which has been chopped, as in onion hachage, though the more common word ii hachis. the more corn mon word is hachis. in onion hachage, though Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of Meat is chopped on a chopping block, usually made of cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The cross-grained planks set upright in a wooden frame. The chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but chopping blocks or tables must not be washed with water but scraped with special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawscraped with aa special scraper, thoroughly dried with sawdust, and then rubbed clean. dust, and then rubbed c1ean.

sq uo'ine'ho,Hlllil"lto bakin gIray trav Squeezing cbou paSle onlO baking

(Larousse)

Choux or puffs ài la or cream cream puffs la ChantilJy. Chantilly. CHOUX cHorrx ÀA LA Choux ra CHANcnaNrPrepare and and cook cook as as for for Choux Choux or or cream puffs àd lata cream puffs - Prepare (see below). crime (see below). Leave Leave them them to to cool, cool, split split and crème and fill fill with with (see CREA Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS) flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. Chantilly MS) ftavoured Chocolate choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. CHOUX cnoux AU AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate cHocolAr -Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Coffee Coffee choux choux or puffs or cream Prepared cream puffs (see below). below). (see Coffee choux choux or or cream puffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cnoux AU lu CAFÉ cmn -_ FiJI Coffee Fill the the cooked puffs puffs with with French pasty cream French pastry (see CREAMS) cream (see cooked CREAMS) flavoured with with coffee coffee essence. essence. Glaze Glaze with with sugar ftavoured sugar ftavoured flavoured with coffee. coffee. with Choux or or cream puffs àA la cream puffs la crème. crime. CHOUX cHoux ÀA LA Choux m CRÈME cntm -When the puffs are the puffs are cold, cold, slit slit them them on on one one si side When de and and fill fill with with French pastry (see CREA cream (see CREAMS). French pastry cream MS). Close Close the puffs and the puffs and sprinkle with with icing sugar. sprinkIe pufrs ài la Ia frangipane. frangipane. CHOUX Choux or cream puffs cHor.x À A LA r,c, FRANGInnaNcrIANE -- The The same same as as Choux Choux or or cream puffs àd la PANE la crème, crime, with with Frangipane (see CREAMS). creom (see Frangipane cream Glazed choux choux or or cream prffs. CHOUX cream puffs. cuoux GLACÉS Glazed GLAcEs -- Ordinary puffs cream or any other other filling, and and glazed with puffs filled filled with with cream witir sugar cooked cooked to (see SUGAR, crack degree degree (see SUGAR, Sugar sugar to the the crack boiling). bOiling). Choux cream puffs Choux or or cream puffs Montmorency. Montmorency. cHorlx CHOUX MoNTMoRENcy MONTMORENCY -- Made crime. Fill the puffs, Made like like Choux or cream puffs d à Ia la crème. when pastry iream when cold, cold, with with a mixture mixture of of cherrie cherriess and Frenchpastry cream and French (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured ftavoured with with cherry brandy. Choux Choux or or cream cream puffs puffs ià la la normande normande -- cnoux CHOUX iÀ rl LA NoRMANDB NORMANDE -- Choux filled filled with with a a stiff apple apple pur6e purée mixed with with a a third third of of its its weight of of French pastry pastry ueam cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured fiavoured with with calvados. calvados.

BABTNEs - Slang name for lips of some animals, 'CHOPS'. BABINES 'CHOPS'. - Slang name for Iips of sorne animaIs, such as dogs or monkeys. The expression'to lick one's chops' such as dogs or monkeys. The expression 'to lick one's chops' indicates satisfaction at a good dish. indicates satisfaction at a good dish.

TILLY TILLY

CHOPSTICKS. BAGUETTES sacuerrEs -- The The 'fork' 'fork' of of the Far East, the Far East, CHOPSTICKS. indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or indispensable to an Asian meal, made in ivory, ebony, or plastic. The Chinese call them 'lively fellows'. They are not plastic. The Chinese cali them 'Iively fellows'. They are not difficult to to manipulate manipulate and and can can be be adapted adapted to to the the requirerequiredifficult ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick ments of various dishes. They are used, for example, to pick up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever up pieces of food, also to push rice into the mouth whenever it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level. it is permitted to raise the bowl to chin level.

CHORON-- Chef Chef de de cuisine cuisine of of the the Voisin Voisin restaurant. restaurant. CHORON (Pastry) CHOU Bun made with chou which is is CHOU (pastry) -- Bun made with chou pastry, pastry, which pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking pushed through a forcing (pastry) bag onto a metal baking tray. The chou, chou, which which is either served served as it is, is, or oi tray. The is round, round, is is either as it stuffed some other stuffed with with cream cream or or sorne other preparation. preparation. Chou Chou pastry pastry or or cream cream puffpastry. puff pastry. pArs,\ PÂTE À cHou CHOU - Ordinary Ordinary chou pastry is made as follows: chou pastry is made as follows: Ingredients. Ingredients. I1 litre litre (If, (1 i pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, 375 g. (13 oz., generous l{ cups) butter, 500 g. (lB oz., 4! 375 g. (13 oz., generous 11 cups) butter, 500 g. (18 oz., 41 cups) tabletablespoon salt, salt, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz, oz., 2 2 tablecups) sifted sifted flour, ftour, I1 tablespoon spoons) spoons) sugar, sugar, 16 16 eggs; eggs; I1 tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water water or or I1 teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract. extract. Method. Method. Boil Boil the the water, water, butter, butter, salt salt and and sugar sugar together together in in aa deep deep flat-bottomed ftat-bottomed pan. pan. When When the the mixture mixture boils, boils, remove rem ove pan from the heat and pour in the sifted flour. Mix well. the the pan from the heat and pour in the sifted ftour. Mix weil. Dry Dry out out the the mixture mixture over over a a low low heat, heat, working working it it with with aa wooden wood en spoon spoon until until itit comes cornes away away from from the the sides sides of of the the pan pan and and oils oils aa little. little. Add Add the the eggs, eggs, off off the the heat, heat, two two at at aa time, time, stirring stirring vigorously, vigorously, and and then then the the flavouring. ftavouring. Various Various cakes cakes such such as as 6clairs, éclairs, Jacob's Jacob's ladders. ladders, SaintSaintHonorC, are made made with with this this pastry, pastry, as as are are Honoré, profiteroles, profiteroles, are soufl6 soufflé fritters. fritters. Cooking Cooking the the choux choux or or cream cream puffs. puffs. onEssAcE DRESSAGE Er ET curssoN CUISSON DEs cHor.x - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a DES CHOUX - Put the mixture through a forcing-bag onto a buttered buttered baking baking tray, tray, allowing allowing aa space space between between each. each. Make Make them them the the size size of ofaa walnut walnut or or smaller smaller ififthey they are are to to be be used used as as profiteroles. profiteroles. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen at at (400'F., 200"C. Gas Mark 6) for 15 200°C. (400°F., Gas Mark 6) for 15 minutes. minutes. When When cold, cold, these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) these buns are filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) or orwith withany anyother otherfilling, filling, according accordingto to the therecipe. recipe. Chorx Chouxororcream creampuffs puffsiàlalac6venole. cévenole.cHoux CHOUXAÀra LAcfvrNorn CÉVENOLE-These are made like Choux or ueen These are made like Choux or cream Wffs puffs dà la la udme crème (see (see below). When below). Whencold, cold,fill fill with withaa pur6e purée of ofchestnuts chestnutsmixed mixed with with whipped whipped cream cream and and flavoured ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch.

Plate Plate of of cream cream puffs puffs

CHRISTMAS. CHRISTMAS. Ndnr NOEL -- In ln the the fourth fourth century century Pope Pope Julius Julius I1 fixed fixed 25 25 December December as as the the date date on on which which the the birtl birth of of Christ Christ

was was to to be be celebrated. celebrated. In ln France, France, the the main main Christmas Christmasmeal meal isis served served on on the the night night 242 242

CINNAMON

CINNA MON

24 to to 25 25 December, December, after after the the celebration celebration of of Midnight Midnight ofof24 Mass.This Thismeal mealisiscalled called the thereveillonreveil/on . Mass.

Themenu menu for forthe thereveillon reveiflonand and for forChristmas ChristmasDay Dayitself itself-The essentiallyaafamily family celebration celebration-- must mustinclude includedishes dishes which which essentially ri tuaisignificance. significance.Even Evenififthe thereveillon reveiflonmenu menu includes includes haveaaritual have various expensivedelicacies delicaciessuch suchas/oiegras, asfoie gras,truffies, truffies,game gameofofvarious expensive kinds,rare rarefish fishand andshellfish, shellfish,ititmust mustalso alsoinclude, include,inindeference deference kinds, tradition, aa black black or orwhite whitepudding, pudding, sometimes sometimes both, both, and and tototradition, goose or or turkey turkey with with chestnuts, chestnuts, often often enriched enriched with with aa goose truffies. truffies. In Britain, Britain, Christmas Christmas Day Day isis celebrated ceJebrated with with even even more more In gastronomic splendour splendour than than in in France. France . gastronomic 'For many many of of the the islanders,' islanders,' wrote wrote Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his his 'For book /a la Cuisine Cuisine anglaise anglaise et et americaine, americaine, 'this 'this anniversary anniversary isis book memorable (apart (apart from from all ail religious religious significance) significance) because because itit memorable slaughter of of turkeys, turkeys, geese geese and and all ail kinds kinds of of evokes ua great gr"ai slaughter evokes game, aa wholesale wholesale massacre massacre of offat fat oxen, oxen, pigs pigs and and sheep' sheep. They They game, envisage garlands garlands ofblack of black puddings, puddings, sausages sausages and and saveloys saveloys Invisage mountains of of plum-puddings plum-puddings and and ovens-full ovens-full of of mincemince.. .. .. mountains pies . .. .. .. pies. that day day no-one no-one in in England may may go hungry. hungry . '. '. '. This is is 'On that 'On family gathering gathering and and on on every table table the the same menu menu is is a family prepared . A A joint of of beef, a turkey turkey or goose' goose, which is usually pr.pated. sausages, and de iesistance, résistance, accompanied accompanied by byaa ham, ham, sausages, the pièce de ihe'piice and the game; then then follow follow the the inevitable plum-pudding and game; mince pies.' famous mince

Insect common to southern countries. CICADA. CICADA. cIGALE CIGALE -- Insect common to southern countries. cicadas

were very fond of According Accordingto to Aristotle, Aristotle, the theGreeks Greeks were very fond of cicadas larvae. and their and their larvae. Fermented drink with an apple base' It was CIDER. CIDER. cIDRE CIDRE-- Fermented drink with an apple base. It was in the thirteenth century already already being being made made in in Normandy Normandy in the thirteenth century Charlemagne. Special and and isis mentioned mentioned in in the the Chronicles Chronicles of of Charlemagne. Special which have given a tart, and acid, sweet, are used, apples apples are used, sweet, acid, and tart, which have given a where they grow. There districts of the cider to the reputation reputation to the cider of the districts where they grow. There is made with sweet aie are early early and and late late species. species. A A good good cider cider is made with {t sweet ripening apples-are apples apples and and $J sour sour and and acid acid apples. apples. Early Early ripening apples are the rest should be put put in in the the press press as as soon soon as as they they are are ready; ready; the rest should be heaps at the foot oftrees. in not and in attics, itored stored in attics, and not in heaps at the foot of trees. put in a press. The marc The The apples apples are are crushed crushed and and put in a press. The marc juice pressed out) is (what (what isis left left of of the the fruit fruit after after the the juice has has been been pressed out) is sprinkled sprinkled with with water water and and pressed pressed aa second second time. time. way as with wine. Fermentation Fermentation is is started started in in the the same same way as with wine. and the same same diseases Cider Cider is is subject subject to to the the same diseases as as wine, wine, and the same remedies remedies can can be be applied applied to to it. it.

of cider: sweet commercial brands There There are are different different commercial brands of according to or not, sparkling or cider, sparkling cider and cider and bottled bottled cider, not, according to fercomplete ferafter complete or after bottled before has been been bottled whether whether it it has before or less alcoholic and less drink and refreshing drink It isis aa refreshing cask.. It in cask mentation mentation in alcoholic wine. than wine. than cider:

sweet

Chub (J. Boyer) Boyer) Chnb(J.

long CHUB. with aa long fish with Freshwater fish cHEvEsNE -- Freshwater cI{EVAINE, CHEVESNE CHUB. CHEVAINE, opening' spindly body, ventral opening. the ventral fin set set below below the dorsal fin the dorsal body, the spindly nab, The , nab , coheven, in English, English, coheven called in chub, called The- common common chub, bot/ing, , chabot, chavanne, chabot, chavanne, cabot, meunier, cabot French, meunier, and inin French, botlW, and of size of tes/ard, reaches aa size sometimes reaches etc.sometimes caboda,etc. rotisson, caboda, testai, rotisson, 50 (20 inches). inches). cm. (20 50 cm. and In blackfinand longjaw, black.fin the longjaw, known asas the chubs, known In U.S.A. U.S.A. chubs, the bloater, LakeSuperior Superior isisthe Lakes. Lake Great Lakes. theGreat are found found inin the bloater, are source fin, which used chubused theonly onlychub whichisisthe blackfin, of the the black most of of most source of extensively fish.. freshfish asfresh extensivelyas Ali .v.) (a(afish fishbelonging belongingtoto f6ra(g(q'v.) for the theféra given for recipesgiven therecipes All the the also fishisisalso Thisfish chub.This applicable totochub. areapplicable famitil are salmon family) the salmon used malelote (g(q.v.). .v.) . thematelote inthe used in

CHUTNEY made whichisismade origin which Indianorigin CondimentofofIndian CHUTNEY- - Condiment garlic, comrriercially. raisins,garlic, seededraisins, withseeded pur6emade madewith commercially. IlItisisaapurée shallots,pimentos, vinegar' andvinegar. sugarand mustard,brown brownsugar apple,mustard, shallots, pimentos,apple, Bring t pints, th9 vinegartotothe quart)white whitevinegar generousquart) pints,generous litre(1(l* Bring1ilitre boil. sliced' andsliced. peeledand apples,peeled (3+lb.) lb.)cooking cookingapples, ke.(3{ AddItUkg. boil.Add Cook (18 oz., sugar, brownsugar, cups)brown oz',2t2|cups) 500g.g'(18 add500 andadd themand Cookthem 2525g. (1 oz., t cup) finely chopped chillis, 200 g.g.(7(7oz., oz',lill e. 0 oz., I cup) finely chopped chillis, 200 cups) chopped, (18oz., finelychopped, cups)finely oz.,3 3cups) 500g.g.(18 iaisins,500 seededraisins, cups)seeded preserved 2 cups) preserved dicedpreserved (18oz., cups)diced o2.,2 peel,500 500g.g.(18 preservedlemon lemonpeel, ginger, shed garlic salt, teaspoonssalt, with4 4teaspoons Seasonwith garlicc1oves. cloves.Season grnger,2 2cru crushed 125 g. (4(4oz., (toz., 2 tablegrains,and and1515g.g.(toz.,2table' mustardgrains, cup)mustard oz.,1 tcup) 7Z{e. spoons) (18oz.) oz') 500g.g.(18 add500 possible,add ginger.IfIfpossible, powderedginger. spoons)powdered preserved glass warmglass intowarm Putinto minutes.Put for8 8minutes. Cookfor pi"seru"dmangoes. mangoes.Cook jars jarswhile andseal. seal. hot,and whilehot, Ordinary caps screwcaps jarswith ringsand andscrew rubberrings withrubber bottlingjars Ordinarybottling are best. are best.

press for cider Applepress Apple for eider

CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LUCHON- -See DELUCHON CIERPDE CIERP mealinina a offa ameal roundsoff Tobacco CIGARETTE CIGAR, CIGAR, CIGARETTE - -Tobacco rounds even beforeoro^reven Smokingbefore likeil.it.Smoking wholike forthose thosewho pleasant way wayfor pleasant taste' senseofoftaste. thesense destroysthe anddestroys heresyand mealisisaaheresy themeal duringthe during altogether' glveup smokingaltogether. upsmoking havetotogive tastershave Profeisionaltasters Professional The tree'The cinnamontree. thecinnamon Barkofofthe ceNNulre- -Bark CINNAMON.CANNELLE CINNAMON. resemble whichresemble barkwhich kindsofofbark giventotoother otherkinds alsogiven nameisisalso name speciesisis medicinalspecies Theonly onlymedicinal flavour.The smellororftavour. cinnamonininsmell cinnamon fgrm theform shopsininthe theshops foundininthe whichisisfound cinnatnonwhich Ceyloncinnamon theCeylon the andupuptoto1 Im.m' diameterand cm.(t(1inch) about1 1cm. sticks,about thinsticks, ofofthin inch) inindiameter each piecesofofbark, bark,each rolledpieces consistingofofrolled yard)ininlength, length,consisting (1(lyard) easily colour,easily yellowinincolour, thick.ItItisisyellow inch;thick. abouti imm. about --. (io(6inch) hot sweet,hot fine,sweet, veryfine, anda avery aromaand spicyaroma witlia aspicy breakable,with breakable, taste. taste. shorter, foundininshorter, (Cassialignea) lignea)is isfound cinnamon(Cassin TheChinese Chinesecinnamon The yellowish bark,yellowish rolledbark, layerofofrolled onelayer formedofofone sticks,formed thickersticks, thicker easily spots,easily blackspots, fewbrown brownororblack witha afew colour,with brown browninincolour, taste' andtaste aromaand pleasantaroma less witha aless butwith breakable pleasant . breakablebut cinnamon Powderedcinna oil:Powdered volatileoil: containsa avolatile Cinnamoncontains Cinnamon mon is is adulterated' andadulterated. qualitybark barkand inferiorquality frominferior madefrom often oftenmade (withthetheessential oils essentialoils dried(with sometimesdried aresometimes sticksare Cinnamon cinnamonsticks practiceis is fraudulentpractice suchfraudulent butsuch sold,but beingsold, beforebeing extracted) extracted)before rare. rare.

243 243

CINNAMONE

CINNAMONE

CITRON.CÉDRAT cfDRAr- -Species Speciesofoflemon lemonwith witha avery verythick thick CITRON. coruscatedskin, skin,cultivated cultivatedononthe theMediterranean Mediterraneancoast. coast. coruscated perfumedand, highlyperfumed and,unlike unlikethe theordinary ordinarylemon lemonoror ltItisishighly orange,isisseldom seldomeaten eateninina anatural naturalstate. state.Because Becauseofofitsits orange, thickskin skinititisischiefly preserved,and chieflypreserved, andisismuch muchused usedinincakecakethick makingand andconfectionery. confectionery. making Corsica, where1titisiswidely widelycultivated, cultivated,a aliqueur liqueurcacalled sica, where lied lnInCor cidratine isismade madewith withthe thefruit. fruit. cédratine CITRONELLA. CITRONELLE cnnoNsr,r.s- -Common Commonname namefor forCollinCollinCITRONELLA. soniacanadensis, canadensiJ, aacoarse plantofthe coarseplant of themint mintfamily. family.ItItexudes sonia exudes penetratingscent, scent,rather ratherlike likelemon. lemon.The Theleaves leavesare areused usedfor for aapenetrating seasoning. Digestive Digestive liqueurs liqueursare aremade fromitsitsflowers. madefrom seasoning. flowers.

CITRUS AURANTIUM AURANTIUM (Seville (Sevilleorange). orange).BIGARADIER, BTcARADTER, CITRUS stclnlos - -Species Speciesof bitterorange ofbitter orangeused usedininconfectionery confectioneryand arid BIGARADE distillingcertain certainliqueurs liqueursand anddrinks. drinks. ItItisisused usedinincookery cookery inindistilling for spicing spicing various various sauees game, inin particular saucesfor particularfor for game, foi for waterfowl, and andalso forma alsofor making bitter orange orange marmalade. marmalade. waterfowl, king bitter green leaves Thegreen principally used leavesare areprincipally (see usedas asan aninfusion infusion(see The TTSANE). TISANE). The flowers, flowers, or or orange orange blossoms, blossoms, are are used inconfectionery, confectionery, usedin The pharmaceutics and perfumery (distilled and perfumery (distilled orange orange blossom pharmaceutics blossom water, essenceofneroli). essenc€ of neroli). water, CITRUS FRUIT. FRUIT. AGRUMES AGRUMEs - - Collective Collective noun noun for CITRUS for oranges, oranges, lemons, tangerines, grapefruit and tangerines, grapefruit and other cultivated Rutaceae. other cultivated lemons, Rutaciae. CITRUS MEDICA MEDICA -- See See AIGRE AIGRE DE DE CÈDRE. CEDRE. CITRUS

Cinnamon

trees Cinnamon trees

CMT-Word mainly used used for forragodls game, which CIVET - Word mainly ragoûtsoffurred of furred game, which are moistened moistened with with red red wine, wine, garnished garnished with are with small small onions, onions, lardoons and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and combined, combined, when lardoons when cooked, cooked, with the the blood blood of of the the animal animal in question. This in question. with This liaison liaison with with blood is is essential essential to to the the dish. dish. blood The name preparation cornes name of of this this preparation The comes from from the the word word cive cive (green onion) onion) because because the the dish dish was was flavoured (green flavoured with with these these onions. It can can be be made made with with any any furred furred game, game, and It and also also with with feathered or fowl. fowl. There There are feathered game or are even civets de even civets fu viandes viandes in in some districts, and and spiny lobster civets sorne civets in in Languedoc. Languedoc. Civet ofhare of hsre -- See HARE. Civet Civet of spioy spiny lobster lobster -- See See SPINY Civet of SpINy LOBSTER, LOBSTER, Spiny Spdny .lobster /obster stew.

CINNAMONE

Old name name for for aa spice spice which which isis probably probably CINNAMONE -- Old

cinnamon (cannelle). cinnamon (cannelle). CISELER French term for superficial incisions on the back CISELER -- French term for superficial incisions on the back of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of of a fish to hasten its cooking. Also applied to the slicing of any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into jutinne any kind of leafy herb which is to be cut up into julienne (q.v.) strips or into a chffinnade (q.v.). (q.v.) strips or into a chiffonnade (q.v.). CITRIC ACID. CITRIQUE crrRreuE -- Organic Organic acid acid found found in great in aa great CITRIC ACID. many fruits (lemons, oranges, gooseberries, gooseberries, raspberries, raspbeiries, many fruits (lemons, oranges, etc.) and some other plants. It is extracted from lembn juice; etc.) and sorne other plants. It is extracted from lemon juice, or it is prepared commercially by fermentatio-n of glucose. Ii or it is prepared commercially by fermentation of glucose. It appears in large fragile crystals, with an'agreJable appears in large fragile crystals, with an ·agreeable acid flavour, dry, but and is is soluble soluble in in water. water. It It keeps keeps well weil when when dry, flavour, and solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by moulds. solutions of citric acid are rapidly invaded by mou Ids. Citric is used used for for making making lemonade lemonade ind and also also orange orange Ci tric acid acid is and and lemon lem on syrups, syrups, etc. etc. Citric Citric acid acid syrup syrup -- See See SYRUp. SYRUP.

CLAFOUTI -- Fruit Fruit pastry or thick fruit pancake CLAFOUTI pancake from the Limousin, Limousin, usually made with black cherries. cherries. 125 g. generous cup) oz., generous g. (4+ (4t oz., Ingredients. 125 cup) flour, flour, 22 eggs, eggs, - -Ingredients. 100 100 g. g. q (4 oz., scant cup) cup) powdered sugar, haliof half ofwhich which is kept kep; to sprinkle sprinkle over over the fruit, fruit, 2 dl. (| (t pint, scant cup) boiled mili<, milk, a pinch pinch of of salt, and 400 g. g. (14 oz.) cherries. Fill the pastry cherries. Fitt with bake in a buttered flan cise case in with the the stoned cherries, and bake the the oven. oven. CLAIRE CLAIRE - Name Name of of the the marine marine enclosures enclosures in the Marennes region region where where the the oysters oysters are are left left to to go go green. green. (See (See OySTER, OYSTER, Green oysters\. Green Marennes Marennes oysters).

CLNRET CLAIRET -- Formerly, Formerly, clairet clairet was aa spiced spieed and and flavoured flavoured

wine. wine. ItIt was was well weil known known at at the the time time of of Charlemagne, Charlemagne, and and was was called called vin vinpiment, piment, or or simplypan simply piment. In this this form form itit was was drunk drunk ent.In as as an an ap6ritif, apéritif, made made in in the the same same way way that that vermouth vermouth and and other other mixed mixed wines wines are are made made now. now. This This wine wine was was not not the the same same as as vin vin clairet, clairet, which which was was aa natural, natural, raw raw wine, wine, neither neither red red nor nor white, white, a,grey a 'grey wine' wine' as as itit would wou Id be be callod called today. today. ItIt was was of ofvin vin clairel clairet that that poets poets sang sang in in the the eighteenth eighteenth century. eentury. Le Le Grand Grand d'Aussy d'Aussy says says of of the the other other clairet:,something clairet: 'Something had leen been lacking lacking at at aa feast feast Ififpiment piment had had not not been been served'; served'; !a! this this being being the the name name given given to to the the wine wine in in the the thirteenth thirteenth

Citron

24 244

CLOVE CLOVE CLEMENTINE. CLEMENTINE. crfirarNrlNE CLÉMENTIl\'E -- Fruit Fruit of ofthe the clementine clementine tree, tree, aa hybrid of unknown unknown origin origin discovered discovered at at the the beginning beginning of of hybrid of the the twentieth Iwentielh century. century. It Il seems seems to 10 be he closely closely related related to 10 the the mandarin mandarin tree. tree. The The clementine is is aa small, small, round, round, orange-coloured orange-coloured fruit, fruit, flattened both ends. ends. The The flesh flesh is is sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and and modermoderflattened at both ately ately acid. acid. The The true true clementine clementine is is seedless. seedless. Recently Recenlly the the Montreal Montreal clementine, clementine, an an earlier earlier and and more more prolific prolific variety variety containing containing about about twenty twenly seeds, seeds, has has been been developed. developed. The is cultivated cultivated in in North North Africa Africa and and Spain, Spain, The clementine is and and is is rharketed marketed between between the the middle middle of of October October and and the the end end of of January. January. Its Its development development has has been been detrimental detrimental to to that that of of the the mandarin mandarin (tangerine), (tangerine), as as clementines clementines have have aa more more delicate delicate flavour are often seedless. seedless. flavour and are It Il is usually usually eaten caten as as aa fresh fresh fruit. fruit.

century. century. Clairet Clairet or or piment piment was was made made in in the the religious religious houses. houses. He He also also says says the the pouillis pouillis (statements (statements of of ecclesiastical ecclesiastical profits profits in prove that that in in the the twelfth twelfth and and fourteenth fourteenth in a province), province), prove centuries the the priors priors of the the deanery of of Chflteaufort, Châteaufort, on on the the Feast Feast of of the the Assumption, Assumption, were were each each in in turn turn required required to to provide provide piment piment for for the the chauvines chauvines (nuns (nuns or or postulants). postulants). This This apgritif apéritif was was made made only only with with vin vin clairet. clairet. Il had had several several shadcs: grey, straw coloured, eoloured, 'partridge-eye', 'partridge-eye', etc. etc. different shades: Current legislation Jegislation of of appellations appellations d'origine d'origine authorises authorises the the Current use of the the word word clairet clairet in in Bordeaux Bordeaux and and Burgundy; Burgundy; Bordeaux Bordeaux use of clairet, Bordeaux Bordeaux sup6rieur supérieur clairet, clairet, Bourgogne Bourgogne clairet. clairet. clairet, The expression expression clairet clairet designates designates a pale pale red, light-bodied light-bodied wine, wine, not nOI quite quite a ros6. rosé. It lt should be be drunk drunk young young and slightly chilled. chilled.

It

CLAIRETI'E - Name Name given to a sparkling sparkling white white wine made made CLAIRETTEin Dr6me, Drôme, where where it is called Clairette Clairette de Die. Also Also the name name

CLIMAT CLIMAT -- Certain Certain vineyards, vineyards, especially especially in in the the Cdte Côte de de Nuits Nuits district, district, are are so so called called because because each each has has a a specific specifie

of a white white grape grape grown in the Mediterranean Mediterranean regions. regions. of

climate. c1imate.

CLARET - Name given given in England to red Bordeaux Bordeaux wines. wines. CLARET

CLISSECLISSE - Small Small tray tray or or mat, mat, made made of of wicker wieker or or rush, rush, used used to to drain drain cheeses. Also Also aa wicker wicker covering covering round round aa bottle. boille.

CLAM. CLAM_ pALouRDE PALOURDE -- Name Name for for many edible edible bivalve bivalve molluscs molluscs low tide. which live in slimy slimy sand and are found at atlow tide. Some these molluscs are are cultivated in in special special beds beds Sorne of these of Bourgalong the beaches beaches of of Auray, Auray, Croisic Croisic and in the Bay Bay of Bourgof neuf. Auray and and Roscoff Roscoff are the principal French centres of the clam trade. t rade. coast the name In many of the places along the Atlantic Atlantic coast na me TapC à stries palourde is d stries applied to other molluscs is also also applied 10 olher molluscs Tapé sties fines, croisCes, tapé tapi virginal, and tapC croisées. virginal, and lapé d à slries fines, are are called palourdou in these molluscs are in La La Rochelle. In In Provence Provence these clovisses. ca lied clovisses. called in France They are are mainly eaten raw They mainly eaten raw in France but but the the North North this shellfish, prepare ilit in Americans, who who are very fond fond of Ihis many ways. and other for clovisses, clovisses, oysters, mussels and All Ali recipes given for shelltisn be applied to them. shellfish can be SOUP. chowder-- See SOUP. Clam chowdcr Oam

CLOCIIE CLOCHE - Silver or plated plated cover coyer for for keeping keeping dishes dishes warm; warm; also also aa glass glass cover coyer under under which which cheese cheese is is kept, kept, or or a a glass glass utensil used during cooking cooking (see (see MUSHROOMS, MUSHROOMS, used as as aa cover coyer during sous cloche\. Mushrooms sous cloche).

(JeanJoseph) -- Famous CLOSE CLOSE (Jean-Joseph) Famous pastry-cook pastry-cook born born in in said to Normandy, Normandy, said to have have invented invenled the the pdtC pâlé de de foie foie gras gras aux truffes 1782, when he truffes in in 1782, he was was in in service with with the the mar€chal marèchal governor of of the Contades, governor the province province of of Alsaoe Alsace at at the the time. time. de Contades, gras were terrine de However, the pdti pâté and the terrine de foie gras were known known in in Close' It France before of France the the south-west of before the the time time of of Close. It is is and perdish in in Alsace, possible that that Close popularised popularised the the dish Alsace, and perperfected it. it. haps perfected baps de Nuits of the C6te de vineyard of Famous vineyard VOUGEOT-- Famous CLOS VOUGEOT the Côte Nuits to (situated in has the Vougeot) which of Vougeot) the commune commune of in Ihe (situated which has the right right to (see BURGUNDY). Apart special appellation contrôlée BURGUNDY). Aparl contrdlCe (see aa special fact that from its its wines, for the the wines, Clos Clos Vougeot Vougeot is is famous famous for the fact from that the of chiteau in in the middle vineyards is is the the headquarters headquarters of of the vineyards château middle of (see CONFRÉRIES VINEUSES). the Confrérie ConfrCrie du tastevin (see CONFRERIES VINEUSES). du laSlevin the Pinot; the the grape of wines is is the the Pinot; Vougeot wines of the the Clos Clos Vougeot The grape The geologiThe geologicommune. The remainder of of the the commune. the remainder Gamay serves the determinant are determinant subsoil are and subsoil soil and composition of of the the soil cal composition cal produced. particular flavour wine produced. of the the wine flavour of factors in in the the particular factors great importance importance to to which which gourmets attach attach great and gourmets Oenologists and fact ilit is is the the and rightly rightly 50. so. In In fact from, and wine cornes comes from, vineyard aa wine year and determine that determine the soil soil that vine, the and the the microdimate, microclimate, the the year vine, personality of the personality of aa wine. wine. the

liquids. The of food, usually Clarifying of CL ARIFICATION -- Clarifying CLARIFICATION usually liquids. process varies for for different substances. proeess BOUILLON. See BOUILLON. Clarlfication of bouillon. Sec Clarification DU BEURRE BEURRE -- Heat cLARIFIcATIoN butter. CLARlFICA Clarification of butter. Clarification TlON DU gentle heat; heat; the butter butter melts and appears the butter a very genlle butter on ona on the forms on while aa white white deposit deposit forms oil while as olive as c1ear clear as olive oil as into anolher another pan. Strain clear butter butter into Strain the the clear bottom of of the the pan. bottom receptacle. DEs cLARIFIcATIoN fruit juices. liquids and and fruit of Ilquids Clarification of Oariflcation TION DES idces. CLARIFlCA liquids can can be Most liquids DE FRUITS FRUtrs -- Most ET DES DEs SUCS sucs DE LreurDEs ET LIQUIDES juices are ferlight ferare clarified clarified by by lighl fruit juices clarified by by filtering; filtering; fruit clarified mentation. See SUGAR. of sugarClarification - Sec Clarification ofsugar

for cloth filter filter for woollen cloth White woollen BLANcHET -- White FfLTER. BLANCHET CLOTH FlLTER. CLOrn liquids' and thick thick liquids. syrup and straining syrup straining

sclarea Salvia sclarea name of of the the Salvia Common name oRvALE - Common CLARY. CLARY. ORVALE for in England England for (herb of used in formerly used family) formerly the sage sage family) (herb of the has aa in wine wine itit has pastries. When infused infused in tries. When Ilavouring certain pas flavouring certain Italian in making making Italian used in of the the herbs herbs used one of muscat taste. taste. ItIt isis one muscat vermouth. vermouth.

is used used of of This term term is To become cloudy. This become c1oudy. LoucHIR -- To CLOUD. LOUCHIR CLOUD. longer c1ear. clear. no longer liquid which which isis no aa liquid

of the the (To stud) consisting of An operation operation consisling stud) -- An CLOUTER (To CLOUTER and scarlet scarlet ham, and pieces of cooked ham, of trumes, truffies, cooked insertion of of small small pieces insertion game. fowl, game. into meal, meat, fowl, tongue inlO tongue and anchovy and fillets of of anchovy with trumes, truffies, fillets are studded Fish are studded with Fish gherkins. gherkins.

BARBE-DEMUSHROOM. BARBE-DEor CLUB-TOP CLUB-TOP MUSHROOM. CLAVARIA or CLAVARIA spindle-shaped mushroom Capless, spindle-shaped CHÈVRE, cHivRE, CLAVAIRE cLAVAIRE -- Capless, pink white, pink grows into various colours, colours, white, of various into branches branches of which grows which rather and rather indigestible and tough, indigestible purple. IlIt isis edible but tough, edible but or purple. or insipid. insipid. in oil oil saut6ed in prepared like like other mushrooms: sautéed other mushrooms: can he be prepared ItIt can crhme, etc. etc. provengale; àit la Ia crème, or or butter; butter; àd lala provençale;

(cLou DE) tree clove tree of the the c10ve or) -- Flowers Flowers of crRoFLE (CLOU CLOVE. GIROFLE CLOVE, probably cornes comes The tree tree probably in the the sun. sun. The picked in dried in in bud and dried bud and pieked in the the first cultivated cultivated in was tirst but was from China, China, but originally from originally was monopoly. ItIt was had the the monopoly. Dutch, who who had the Dutch, Moluccas by by the Moluccas Governor Mauritius by by Governor and Mauritius R6union and into Réunion introduced into introduced and ZanziZanziIndies, Cayenne Cayenne and West Indies, the West into the and later later into Poivre, and Poivre, bar. bar. sepals. four sepals. calyx with with four and aa calyx stem and four-sided stem have aa four-sided Cloves have Cloves

fattened. are fattened. oysters are Bed where where oysters CLAYDRE CLA YÈRE -- Bed certain on which which certain of rush rush orstraw or straw on mat of CLAYON -- Small Small mat CLAYON given 10 placed. The to small small wire wire trays. trays. same name name isis given The same foods are are placed. foods 245 245

CLOVISSE CLOVISSE They have have an an aromatic aromatic scent scent and and aa hot hot spicy spicy flavour, flavour, and and They are used used for for seasoning seasoning in in cookery. cookery. They They are are sometimes sometimes sold sold are mixed with cloves cloves which which have have already already been been used in the the manumanuused in mixedwith facture of of dyes dyes or liqueurs. The or liqueurs. The clove clove matrix matrix or or fruits fruits of of the the facture clove tree tree are are also also sold sold as as cloves. cloves. clove The clove clove isis an an excellent excellent condiment condiment and powerful and aa powerful The antiseptic. antiseptic.

(Spanish cookery) COCIDO (Spanish cookery) -- Popular Popular Spanish Spanish soup, soup, also also COCIDO known under (q.v.). under the name of podridn (g.v.). the name of Olla Olla podrida known

COCK-A-LEEKIE or (Scottish cookery) or COCKY COCKY-LEEKY cookery) -COCK-A-LEEKlE -LEEKY (Scottisb Soup made made of (See SOUP.) of cock cock and and leeks. leeks. (See SOUP.) Soup COCKLE. BUCARDE BUcARDE -- European European marine marine bivalve bivalve mollusc mollusc of of COCKLE. genus Cardium, the genus Cardium, found found mainly mainly at at the mouth of the mouth of rivers. rivers. The The the type found found on on the the Atlantic Atlantic coast coast of of France, France, called called bucarde bucarde type sourdon, isis edible. edible. ItIt isis also also known known in in France France under under the names the names sourdon, poor man's of coque, coque, sourdon sourdon and and poor man's oyster. oyster. of Cockles are are eaten raw and and can prepared like eaten raw can also also be be prepared like Cockles (q.v.). mussels (g.v.). mussels

CLOVISSE -- Bivalve Bivalve mollusc mollusc which which isis like pa lourde ; it like the the palourde; it isis CLOVISSE eaten fresh fresh like like oysters oysters or or cooked cooked like like mussels, mussels, and is served and is served eaten with or without lemon. or without lemon. with CLUPEIDAE. CLUPES cLUpEs -- Family Family of of seawater seawater and freshwater and freshwater CLUPEIDAE. fish which which include include shad, shad, herring, herring, sardine sardine and and anchovy. anchovy. fish

COCK'S COMB. COMB. CRÊTE cRgTE DE DE COQ coe -- Fleshy Fleshy excrescence, excrescence, often often COCK'S voluminous, found found on on the the heads heads of galliof cocks cocks and and other other gallivoluminous, naceans. It It isis used garnish for chiefly as used chiefly as aa garnish for entrées. entries. naceans. Method of of cleaning cleaning and and cooking cooking cocks' cocks' combs. combs. Prick Prick the the Method combs lightly lightly witha with a needle needle and put them and put them under under the cold tap, tap, the cold combs pressing them them with with the the fingers fingers to to dispel dispel the the blood. pressing Cover with with cold cold water water and and cook cook until until the the water water reaches reaches aa Cover (l l0'F.), when 40' or of 40° or 45°C. 45'C. (110°F.), when the the skin skin of of the the temperature of combs begins to to detach itself. itself. Drain Drain the the combs combs and and rub rub them them combs one by by one one in in aa cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine salt. salt. one put the combs Remove the the outer skin; put combs in in cold cold water, water, and Remove when they plunge them they are are white white plunge them into into aa boiling boiling White White when (see COURT-BOUILLON). court-bouillon (see COURT-BOUILLON). Cook Cook for for 35 court-bouillon minutes. minutes. Attelets of of cocks' cocks' combs. combs. AATTELETs oE CRÊTES cREtss DE DE COQ coe -Attelets TTELETS DE Cook the the cocks' cocks' combs, combs, keeping keeping them possible them as as white white as as possible Cook and rather rather firm. firm. Drain Drain and and wipe wipe them, and thread them, and thread on and frilled edge the frilled edge uppermost. skewers, the Cocks'combs cnf;rns DE COQ coe EN EN A ATTEREAT.Tx Cocks' combs en attereaux. CRÊTES TTEREAUXCook the the cocks' combs in the combs in the manner described described above and Cook leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate them in in oil oil and leave to cool. Drain, wipe, and marinate them lemon juice. lemon juice. Add Add chopped parsley. parsley. Drain, and impale them three at aa time on silver skewers. Drain, and Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in clarified butter. Dip butter. Cocks'combs cnsrrs DE COQ coe EN Cocks' combs en atterearx attereaux ài la Villeroi. CRÊTES ,c,rrEREaux cocks' combs in a ATTEREAUX A À LA LA vrLLERor VILLEROI -- Cook the cocks' a White (see COURT-BOUILLON), court-bouillon COURT-BOUILLON), drain court-bouillon (see drain and and dry them, Villeroi sauce (se, them, and cover with with Villeroi (see SAUCE). Leave Leave to cool cool on'a on' a gnd. grid. Cover Co ver the the combs with egg, egg, sprinkle with breadcrumbs, in clarified breadcrumbs, and fry in clarified butter. Cocks' Cocks' combs combs barquettes barquettes and and tartlets. tartlets. BAReuETTES BARQUETTES ET ET TARTELETTES sa me TARTELETTES DE DE cRBrEs CRÊTES DE DE coe COQ -- These are made in the same way barquettes and and tartlets filled filled with various various salpicon salpicon way as as barquettes preparations. s-d' cuvr e.\ preparations. (See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hor hors-d'œuvre.) Salpicon Salpicon of of cocks' combs ià blanc. blanc. sAI,prcoN SALPICON oE DE cn6rss CRÊTES op DE coe À BLANc BLANC -- Cook the the cocks' cocks' combs combs in in the the manner manner COQ A described described above, above, and dice dice them. them. Heat for a few moments in wine oons Velouti or liqueur. ligueur. Add Add a a few few tablesp tablespoons Velouté sauce sauce or or wine or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). This This salpicon salpicon is is used as a filling filling for boucheds, boucheés, barquettes, barquettes, tartlets, tartlets, or or other other similar similar preparations. preparations. Salpicon Salpicon of of cocks' combs combs ià brun. brun. sAlprcoN SALPICON os DE cRETES CRÊTES oE DE coQ COQ AÀ BRUN BRUN -- Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Salpicon Salpicon of ofcocks' cocks' combs blanc, but but replace replace the the white white sauce sauce with with aa concenconcencombs dà blanc, trated, trated, thickened thickened brown brown stock, stock, to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been been added added before before boiling boiling down. down. Strffed Stuffed cockst cocks' combs combs. cnErns C1Û:TES DE DE coe COQ r,arncres FARCIES -- Choose Choose very very large combs and and cook cook them them n in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon (see (see large combs COURT-BOUILLOFQ, COURT-BOUILLON), keeping keeping them them rather rather firm. firm, Leave Leave to to cool, cool, drain drain and and wipe wipe them, them, and and slit slit them them down down the the centre centre of of the the fattest fattest part. part. Stuff Stuff each each with with aa small small ball bail of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover the the combs combs n in Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dip Dip in in egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter.

CNICAUT -- Edible Edible wild wild cardoon, cardoon, with with aa taste taste of of cabbage. cabbage. CNICAUT COAGULATE. FIGER rrcnn-- To To thicken thicken or or congeal, congeal, when applied when applied COAGULATE. to fats. fats. to

COAL FISH. FISH. CHARBONNIER cHARBoNNTSR -- A A kind kind of of cod cod fished fished in in the COAL (see COD). North Sea. Sea. Prepared Prepared like like cod cod (see COD). North pLAr -- Ring (nonouru) DE COASTER. GALERIE cALERTE (BORDURE) DE PLAT Ring of of silver silver or or COASTER. silver-plate made made to to fit fit the the inner inner diameter diameter of of round round dishes. dishes. silver-plate This omamental ornamental circle circle is is set set in in the the weil well of the dish dish to of the to hold hold in in This position the garnishes arranged the garnishes arranged round round the the main main course. course. position COAT. ENROBER ENRoBER -- To To dip dip food food either either in in batter batter or or in in aa sauce sauce COAT. which masks masks it it entirely, entirely, such such as as chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce. sauce. which

Coca: Coca: a. Flower; a. Flower; b. b. Fruit Fruit

COCA COCA -- Peruvian Peruvian shrub, shrub, the the leaves leaves of of which which are are chewed chewed by by the the Indians. Indians. Considered Considered an an economical economical food, food, its its properties properties are are due due to to the the effect effect produced produced by by its its alkaloid, alkaloid, cocaine, cocaine, which which is is as as stimulating stimulating as as tea tea or or coffee. coffee. It It is is used used as as an an infusion, infusion, as as aa wine, wine, as as an an elixir, elixir, and and also also used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of of certain certain cakes. cakes. COCHINEAL. COCHINEAL. cocsrNrr.I-E COCHENILLE -- Insect Insect used used to to prepare prepare aa red red dye dye called called carmine. carmine. The The best-known best-known cochinial cochineal ls is that that of of nopal nopal (cochineal (cochineal cactus). cactus). The female insect is The female insect is used, used, collected collected after after she she is is fertilised fertilised and and before before the the complete complete development development of of the the eggs. eggs. Gray Gray cochineals cochineals are are the the most most sought sought after, after, but but there there are are also also red red and and black black varieties. varieties. They They are are put put in in the the oven oven on on metal metal sheets sheets for for aa few few moments, moments, or or plunged plunged into into boiling boiling water, water, and and dried. dried. Carmine Carmine isis used used for for colouring colouring in in cooking cooking and and cake-mixing. cake-mixing.

COCHLEARIA. COCHLEARlA. cocnrflnrl COCHLÉARIA -- Type Type of of cruciferous cruciferous plant, plant, of of which which one one species, species, the the wild wild lorseradish horseradish (Cochliaria (Cochléaria de de

Bretagne) particularly in Bretagne) grows grows on on the the sea sea coast, coast:particularly in Brittany, Brittany, in in England England and and in in lreland. Ireland. It It is is known known as as scurvy-grass scurvy-grass in in the the

(usually) alcoholic COCKTAIL COCKTAIL-- Drink Drink of of(usually) aJcoholic liquor liguor mixed mixed with with other other liquid liguid and and aromatic aromatic ingredients, ingredients, stirred stirred or or shaken shaken with with

United United States. States.

246 246

COCKTAIL COCKTAIL

Cocktail acc€ssories accessories

(Christofle) ( Christofie)

Co cktail hr i s t ofle. Cock tail set (C (Christofie.

'Manhattar,'. Phot. 'Manhallan'. Kollar'l Kollar)

juice 'old fashioned' an 'old jUlce is is placed placed in in an fashioned' glass. glass. Ice lce cubes cubes are

glasses. The origin of the ice ice and and served ice-cold in special glasses. Probably Anglo-American, it word 'cocktail' 'cocktail' is is uncertain. Probably which results might might refer refer to the shimmering which results from from mixing mixing to the coloured liqueurs, coloured liqueurs, or, to sorne or, according according to some etymologists, cocktail of the because the the primitive cocktail the Manhattan pioneers pioneers consisted of of cocks' tails, dipped in a concoction concoction of consisted of pimentos, drink.. with which they tickled their throats throats to incite them to drink coquetel The French French origin origin of of the word coque lei is, however, however. told by a who main in Bordeaux, maintain number of authors, who tain that it was in towards the end of the eighteenth century, that this kind of drink was invented. invented. The cocktail cocktail party is aa phenomenon of of the The party is twentieth the twentieth gatherings. ail or large gatherings. century, and is used for entertaining entertaining sm small On such an occasion more kinds of occasion one or more of cocktails are served well as as'straight'liquor, as weil 'straight' liquor, usually Scotch, Irish, Bourbon Bourbon or ('on the rocks') rocks') or with rye whisky, whisky, poured over ice ice cubes ('on glasses; or mixed crushed ice ('in a mist'), mist'), and served in short glasses; with water or carbonated water and served in long 'highball' glasses. Accompanying Accompanying these drinks are are hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre that that these drinks range from from the can can be eaten while while holding the glass. These range simple to the elaborate. great many have been There are many cocktails which have been in There cocktails which are aa great vogue vogue from from time to time, time, either because of of their their exotic time to either because nature or names, but nature or because of their their fantastic fantastic names, but certain because of win the mixtures have stood the test of time and continue to win approval of connoisseurs. connoisseurs. These include the the following: (Scotch, rye, rye, or Dry Manhattan (Bronx) @ronx) -- 3 parts whisky (Scotch. Bourbon), 1I part dry dry French vermouth. vermouth. Garnish: Bourbon), Garnish: twist twist of lemon peel. (Dubonnet c9cktaiJ) Dubonnet (Dubonnet cocktail) -- 2 parts Dubonnet Dubonnet Gin and Dubonnet gin, combined with cracked and 1I part gin, ice, shaken hard in in a and cracked ice, cocktail shaker and and strained strained into cocktail glasses. (Scotch, rye rye or or Bourbon), Bourbon), 1I Manhattan -- 33 parts whisky (Scotch, part sweet Italian vermouth and partsweet Italian vermouth and aa dash dash of of Angostura Angostura bitters. Garnish (optional): aa maraschino cherry. bitters. parts gin, gin, 1I part dry French Martini (gin and vermouth)Martini - 3 parts ad vermouth) garnished with an peel or a vermouth, garnished an olive, aa twist of lemon peel pearl on (in which pearl ion (in which case case the the drink drink isis called called aa Gibson) onion Gibson).. Proportions may vary; sorne Proportions some people prefer a straight straight Martini gin and which means means less less gin and more vermouth. which vermouth. A A sweet sweet Martini gin and would conta contain and 1I part sweet Italian vermouth, vermouth, would in 55 parts gin sweet ltalian garnished with aa twist of orange and is garnished peel, and orange peel. (Scotch, rye, Old-fashioned -- Whisky Whisky (Scotch, ry€, or Old-fashioned or Bourbon), Bourbon), juice, sugar. bitters or or cherry cherry juice, Angostura bitters sugar. Garnish: Garnish: cherries, cherries, pineapple wedges. A smalllump orange slices, lemon slices slices or pineapple small lump of sugar sugar moistened moistened with with the the Angostura Angostura bitters of bitters or or cherry cherry

(3 tablespoons, scant t cup) whisky added and ]t dl. (3 whisky poured or, if over over them. One One or or more more of the garnishes garnishes are are added added or, if preferred, a piece of lemon peel is twisted over the drink. A 'muddler'(stirring glass. 'muddler' (stirring stick) is placed in each glass. Pink gin - Made Made by putting Angostura Angostura bitters in a glass

and agitating agitating the glass so that the bitters coat the inside. inside. The bitters are then poured away and gin added until the drink is pale pink. syrup,44 parts Daiquiri-- 1I part lime juice, 1I part sugar syrup, Rum Daiquiri juice. Add Bacardi and lime juice. rum. Blend Blend syrup syrup and Bacardi rum. Add rum rum and finely crushed ice. Shake hard and strain into ioto chilled glasses. (Scotch, rye, rye, or Bourbon), Bourbon), Whisky sour -- 44 parts whisky (Scotch, juice, 1I part lemon juice, juice, sweeteoing sweetening to tas taste. orange juice, 1I part orange te. orange peel or lemon peel. Garnish: maraschino cherry, orange selection of various various types types of cocktail, cocktail, The following is is aa selection classified for easy reference: reference: classified Classic cocktails -- Adam I.C.D. tin grapefruit, I bitter Classic l.e.D. iI tin Cinzano, f, dry dry Cinzano, Cinzano, iI gin. Cinzano, Alexandra. $ fresh cream, CrEme de Cacao, j Cognac. Cognac. cream, ] Crème Alexandra. Americano. t] bitter vermouth, t* dry d.V bitter Campari, Campari, j$ sweet vermouth, vermouth, twist of lemon peel. vermouth, grenadine, iI Marie in without mixing: iI grenadine, Arc-en-ciel. Pour in Ricqlds, iI green Chartreuse Chartreuse. . Brizard,fi Véramint V6ramint Ricqlès, Brizard, juice. grenadine, tI lemon Bacardi. ~t rum, ~t grenadine, lemon juice. Bacardi. velvet ] stout, tI Champagne. Champagne. Black velvel.

i

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t

t

Cocktail shaker shaker Cocktail (Larousse) (Larousse)

247

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COCOA COCOA

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Bloody Mary. Mary. 175 175 ml. ml. (6(6 oz.) oz.) tomato tomato juice, 1I dash dash lemon lemon Bloody juice, 22dashes dashes Worcester Worcester sauce, (2-3 oz.) sauce, 3-4 3-4 tab,lesPocJns tablespoons (2-3 oz.) juice, vodka, salt salt and pepper. and cayenne cayenne pepper. vodka, juice, if Cinzano grn,i* Orange Bronx. ~Sgin, Orange juice, Cinzano rosso, rosso, I Cinzano Cinzano Bronx. bianco. bianco. Canasta. t$Cinzano Cinzano bianco, bianco, * gin, * maraschino. Canasta. Champagne cocktail. glass Chlanlpalgne, cocktail.l Champagne, I dash AngosChampagne 1 glass tura bitters, bitters, twist twist of lemon peel, peel, 1I sugar of lemon sugar lump. tura Champagne fiip. 11 glass Champagne, I beaten egg yolk, egg yolk, Champagne "flip. glass Champagne, twist of peel. Sprinkle of lemon lemon peel. Sprinkle with grated nutmeg. with grated nutmeg. twist Cherry blossom. blossom. j Cognac, Cognac, I cherry cherry brandy, brandy, 1I dash dash Cherry Curagao, 1I dash grenadine, 1I dash lemon dash grenadine, lemon juice. Curaçao, Cinzano cobbler. cobbler. tt Cinzano Cinzano rosso, rosso, f, ,-"Ul Curagao, kirsch, Cinzano "' .. au. if kirsch, tablespoon sugar, sugar, 1I slice slice orange, orange, diced fresh fruit. 1I tablespoon glass rum, Cuba libre. libre.l1 glass glass Coca-Cola. rum, 1I glass Coca-Cola. Cuba Cognac, ~$ Cointreau, Cointreau, 1I tablespoon tablespoon orange orange . Curnonsky. .Curnonsky. ~t Cognac, juice. Julce. juice, 1I tablespoon Daiquiri. ~t rum, rum, t$ lemon lemon juice, grenadine. tablespoon grenadine. Daiquiri. juice of I orange. glass Dubonnet, Dubonnet fizz. Dubonnet, juice orange. Top Top up Dubonnet up fizz. 1I glass with Champagne. Champagne. with Evming delight. glass rye delight. 1I glass rye whiskey, whiskey, 1I dash dash Curaçao, Curagao, 1I dash apricot brandy. brandy. juice of glass gin, Ginfizz.l1 glass gin, juice of 1I lemon, 1I tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, water. soda water. soda Half and andhalf.lpale ale, f stout. stout. Ralf half. pale ale, gitt, i sweet Maca.* gin, sweet Martini, $ Noilly Noilly Prat, Prat,Zdashes Maca. 2 dashes cassis, slice orange. orange. 1I slice Manhattan. ~f Scotch Scotch whisky, whisky, $ Noilly Noilly Prat, 22 dashes Manhattan. Angostura bitters, bitters, 22 dashes dashes Cointreau, Cointreau, 1I twist twist of lemon, lemon, 1I Angostura Dry.t! white cherry. Dry. white vermouth, vermouth, 1 gin, 1I olive. cherry. f gin, Mr. Callaghan. ~3 dry dry Cinzano, Cinzano, $ apricot brandy, brandy, ~f MI'. Callaghan. ~ apricot Angostura bitters. bitters. rUI~,,'~u~la Negroni. * gin, gin,l Cam Campari, pari, j Cinzano rosso, twist of lemon peel. peel. Planter's. rum, if lemon lemon juice, Planter 's. ~f rum, juice, iI orange orange juice. juice. Porto flip. I1 glass glass port, I1 egg yolk, yolk, 1I tablespoon sugar. Porto Sprinkle with grated grated nutmeg. Rose. 10 gin, t Noilly Prat, cherry Rocher, I1 cherry. -:gin, fo INoilly -a Sherry sherry,2 dashes Curagao,3 Sherry cobbler. cobbler. 1 glass glass sherry, Curaçao, 3 dashes juice, orange 1 slice orange, I slice orange juice, 1 slice orange, 1 slice lemon. Side lemon juice, Side car.{ car. i-Iemon juice, } Cognac, Cognac, } white white Curagao. Curaçao. Sputnik.I Sputnik. j vodka, vodka, !{ dry Cinzano, Cinzano, I1 cocktail onion. onion. Tom Tom Collins. Collins. I1 glass glass gin, I1 tablespoon sugar, sugar, I1 tablespoon lemon lemon juice, soda-water. soda-water. Coffee-based Cott~e-baSf~d cocktails cocktails - Roman Roman holiday (for (for 4 people). people). (a 100 f Al 100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., lt It cups) cups) very very finely finely ground coffee, coffee,3 dl. $ (i pint, pint, l|H cups) water, water, 2 2 to to 5 teaspoonJ teaspoons icing sugar, according according to to taste, tas te, 3 to to 44 ice ice cubes cu bes per per glass. Make Make the the coffee coffee tn in aa bain-marue. Crush Crush the the ice ice cubes cubes and and fill fill the the glasses glasses three-quarters three-quarters full full with with them. them. Sprinkle with with the the sugar. sugar. Pour Pour the the boiling boiling coffee coffee over. over. Romans Romans top top this this drink drink with with aa generous generous swirl swirl of of sweetened sweetened Chantilly Chantilly cream cream flavoured flavoured with with cinnamon. cinnamon. Bourbon Bourbon coffee. coffee. Black Black coffee, coffee, ice, ice, Bourbon Bourbon whiskey. whiskey. Fill Fill the the glasses glasses with with ice ice and and pour pour aa liqueur liqueur glass glass of of Bourbon Bourbon whiskey whiskey in in each. each. Top Top up up with with black black coffee. coffee. IfIf you you like like sugar sugar or or cream, cream, or or both, both, add add these these and and stir. stir. If If the the coffee coffee is is preprechilled chilled less less iee ice isis required. Mllk-based Milk-based cocktails - Tango.l cup milk, 2 ice cubes, 2 tablespoons fruit syrup, syrup, (grenadine, cassis, raspberry, tables po ons fruit strawberry, strawberry, pineapple pineapple or or orange). orange). Shake vigorously. The cocktail cocktail must must be be frothy. frothy. BrCsilien. Brésilien. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with $j- water, water, 22 teate aspoons spoons soluble soluble coffee, coffee, { teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, sugar sugar to to taste, taste, ice ice cubes. cubes. Prepare Prepare asfot as for Nigrillonne Négrillonne (see (seebelow), below), the thechocolate chocolatebeing being replaced repJaced by by coffee. coffee. NCgrillonne. Négrillonne. Evaporated Evaporated milk milk diluted diluted with with $! water, water, I1

tablespoon tablespoon chocolate powder, f, teaspoon chocolate powder, teaspoon vanilla vanilla or cinnaor cinnabes. te, ice mon, sugar to icecu to tas taste, cubes. Blend the the chocolate, chocolate, vanilla vanilla and and sugar. sugar. Add Add the the milk milk diluted diluted with with the the water water and pour into and pour into the the mixer mixer or or shaker. shaker. Shake Shake until until frothy. frothy. Serve Serve with with ice. ice. Tea-based Tea-based cocktails cocktails -- Casbah. Casbah. This This Aigerian Algerian drink drink isis an an excellent quencher. Drunk excellent thirst thirst quencher. Drunk hot, hot, even very hot, even very hot, during during the the hottest hottest season, season, itit isis delightfully delightfully refreshing. refreshing. 1I tablespoon green tea, tablespoon green tea, JI tablespoon tablespoon mint mint tea, 100 to tea, 100 to (4 to g. (4 150 I 50 g. to 55 oz., ( l! pints) oz., 1I cup) cup) Joaf loaf sugar, sugar, ol litre pints) water. fitre (l-jwater. Mix green and Mix the the green and mint mint tea tea together together and and leave leave them them to to infuse infuse for for sorne some time. time. Crush Crush the the sugar and add add gradually to sugar and to the the tea, tea, until until itit all all dissolves. dissolves. The infusion must The infusion must be very very strong strong and and sweet, sweet, almost almost syrup-like syruplike in in consistency. consistency. Serve very hot Serve very hot with with aa fresh fresh leaf leaf of of mint mint in in each each glass. This This beverage beverage can can be be entirely prepared from powdered from powdered mint, mint, in in which which case case honey is substituted for for sugar. (for 44 people). 22 teaspoons tea, Tea punch (for tea, rind of I lemon, lemon, water, 3 tablespoons water, tablespoons sugar, (6 tablespoons, sugar, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1-* cup) cup) rum, ice rum, bes. i@ cu cubes. Make the the tea, but add add the lemon rind before pouring in tea, but in the the boiling boiling water. water. Infuse for quarter of an an hour. hour. Add the the sugar. sugar. Leave Leave the get quite cold; the tea tea to to get cold; itit can placed in can be be placed in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. To To serve, place aa large serve, place large cube cube of sugar sugar in in each each glass, pour in the rum and, glass, and, lastly, the cold cold tea. This This cocktail is often drunk drunk through aa straw straw stuck through aa slice of lem on. lemon. Vitamin-based cocktails -- The The following following cocktails cocktails have been been specially devised by the dietician Gayelord Hauser. Cocabacrem. 1I glass milk, 1 I tablespoon tablespoon yeast, 1I tablespoon honey, I tablespoon UHI!""'IJ'-/VLI powdered milk, 1 banana. I sliced banana. Cocabana. I glass pineapple juice, Cocabana. juice, 1 milk, 1 I tablespoon milk, I tablespoon tablespoon honey, 1I mashed banana. banana. juice, iCocabricot. 1I large glass apricot apricotjuice, cup skimmed skimmed milk, f cup Il tablespoon honey. honey, Cocktomate. I1 glass glass tomato juice, I1 tablespoon lemon juice, juice, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. Complete Complete cocktail. cocktail. IJ glass pineapple pioeapple juice, juice,lI tablespoon crushed walnuts, walnuts, I1 tablespoon yeast, IJ tablespoon honey, honey, l0 10 crushed wild strawberries. apple juice. juice. Maraicher. M araicher. $ celery juice, $ carrot juice, $ apple . milk, I shake. I1 glass orange juice, 2 tablespoons Milk shake. milk, honey. tablespoon honey.

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COCOA (Beans). (Reans). cAcAoCACAO - Seeds Seeds contained contained in in aa pod which which is is COCOA the fruit fruit of of the the cacao cacao tree. tree. The The pod isis gatherod gathered when ripe, ripe, and and the The beans, beans, covered covered with fleshy pulp, are are fermented; fermented; aa split. The process process which destroys destroys the the germ, and enables enables them them to to be be shelled. They They are are then then dried dried in silos silos or or in in the the open open air. air. The The shelled. highest quality quality cocoa cocoa comes cornes from from Venezuela, Venezuela, and and GuateGuatehighest mala; mala; itit has has aa thick, thick, ochrg-coloured ochre-coloured shell shell and and aa purple-blue purple-blue bean. Ecuador Ecuador cocoa cocoa beans beans are are bigger, with with aa brown brown shell shell bean. and and aa brown, brown, almost almost black, black, bean. bean. Brazil varieties varieties of of cocoa, cocoa, including including the the Maragnan, Maragnan, are are flatter flatter in in shape, shape, with with aa purplepurpleblue bean. bean. Guiana Guiana cocoa cocoa beans beans are are small, small, with with aa grey grey shell shell blue and and brown brown bean. bean. Different Different characteristics characteristics make make itit possible possible to to distinguish dis,tinguish the cocoa cocoa of of Jamaica, Jamaica, Martinique, Martinique, Guadeloupe, Guadeloupe, etc. etc. The the should have have aa clean c1ean smell smell and and should should not not have have anv any beans should beans wormholes, wormhoJes, grit, grit, or or other other foreign foreign matter. matter. Columbus Columbus was, was, according according to tolegend, legend, the the first first European European to to cocoa in in use, use, but but the the specimens specimens he he took took back back to to Spain Spain see cocoa see were were not not considered considered of of any any value. value. Cortes Cortés found found itit widely widely grown grown and and used used in in Mexico Mexico in in 1519. 1519. The The Aztecs Aztecs grew grew itit for for many many generations, generations, and and their their Emperor Emperor Montezuma, Montezuma, and and his his court, court, are are reputd reputed to to have have consumed consumed fifty fifty large largejars jars aa day. day. There Therewas wasno nosugar at at that thattime, time,and and the thedrink drinkwas wasflavoured flavoured with vanilla vanilla and drunk cold. cold. with

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248 248 Seafood:oysters, oysters,mussels, mussels,cockles, cockles.shrimps, shrimps,sea seaurchins urchinsand andlobsters (Prunier.Phot' Phot. Nicolas Nicolas) lobsters (Prnnrer. Seafood: )

COCOTTE COCOTTE In Europe, Europe, the the Spaniards Spaniards imitated imitated the Aztecs' method method of the Aztecs' of In preparing 'chocolate', 'chocolate', flavouring flavouring itit with chillies and and other with chillies other preparing hot spices spices and and making making itit into into aa soup-like soupJike concoction. concoction. hot Chocolate became fashionable drink became aa fashionable drink inin France. France. The The Chocolate first record record of of its its use in England England was use in was at at Oxford Oxford in in 1650. 1650. Seven Seven first years later later aa Frenchman Frenchman opened opened aa cocoa cocoa house house in in BishopsBishopsyears gate Street, Street, London. London. Under payable on Charles II II the Under Charles the dut duty on gate y payable chocolate in in its per gallon. gallon. Later, its finished finished state state was was 88 shillings shillings per Later, chocolate someone thought thought of of adding adding sugar sugar to chocolate. Pepys, to chocolate. Pepys, in in his his someone diary, after after his his first first taste 'very taste of of'jucalette' described itit as as 'very diary, 'juca/ette' described good'. good'.

isis necessary necessary to to release release the aroma. After the aroma. After roasting, roasting, the beans the beans pulverised and presented in are pulverised are and presented in various various forms. forms. Cocoa Cocoa sheDs. shells. COQUES DE CACAO cAcAo -- The The membranous membranous shells coeuEs DE shells of of husked husked cocoa cocoa beans prepare aa pleasant pleasant beans can can be be used used to to prepare beverage, beverage, resembling possesses fortifying resembling chocolate, chocolate, which which possesses fortifying properties owing properties owing to vitamin content. to the the vitamin content. Allow Allow 1I tablespoon tablespoon per cup. cocoa shells cocoa shells per cup.

Coconut

COCONUT. NOIX Nox DE COCONUT. DE COCO coco -- Fruit Fruit of of the coconut tree, the coconut palm tree belonging to to the the palm family. The tree family. The sap sap is is used make used to to make fermented drinks drinks called called palm tree wines. Gathered before the tains aa the fruit is is ripe, ripe, the the coconut con contains kind of milk or cream. When ripe, ripe, the nut has aa hollow hollow centre and adheres to and to the the shell. It isis used shell. It used mainly mainly for cake-making cake-making and confectionery. Dried, and and and with with the the fibrous fibrous outer outer skin removed, coconut is is called called copra, and and is is used used for making an industrial oil for soap manufacture. Purified and and deodorised, coconut Purified coconut oil, oil, which which has has aa firm consistency at consistency at ordinary ordinary temperatures, is called temperatures, is called coconut butter. There are are aa number of commercial products under . this name. Itis It is fatty, almost almost without without watercontent, water content, odourless, odourless, tasteless, and very digestible. It is used tasteless, used in certain diets when when butter cannot be assimilated, and and especially butter cannot be in vegetarian especially in cookery. LAIT DE DE COCO Used to to moisten Coconut milk. milk. larr coco -- Used moisten curry sauces. Mix Mix 400 g. (14 o2.,4 oz., 4 cups) finely grated coconut with grated coconut 3 dl. (* (t pint, l{ I-!- cups) warm milk. Strain through through muslin.

pods Cocoa pods

Chocolate houses houses were were fashionable fashionable in Chocolate in the the eighteenth century, each each having century, having a a literary, literary, political political or or gambling gambling gaming-house in St James's notorious gaming-house clientele. White's, White's, the notorious Street, began as a chocolate house. Chocolate Chocolate was was first first prepared prepared by hand. Dr Joseph Fry of Bristol, Bristol, having having bought bought the the patent patent rights rights from from Walter Churchman, Churchman, who who had had been been making chocolate since since 1728, was was the the first first to to manufacture manufacture it it on a a big scale in in England, England, introducing introducing a steam engine for grinding grinding the cocoa beans in 1795. 1795. Dr Dr James Baker founded the first chocolate factory in America America in in 1780. 1780. Both businesses businesses still exist. exist. All or drinking drinking chocolate. It It is not Ali this this was was still still cocoa, or definitely definitely known known when chocolate was first sold for eating; eating; probably probably not not until until Victoria's reign. Cadbury's Cadbury's price price list, as as late of eating eating chocolate. late as as 1842, 1842, shows only only one kind of Cocoa POUDRE DE DE cAcAo CACAO SoLUBLE SOLUBlE - Cocoa with with Cocoa powder. powder. pouDRE reduced which itit must reduced fat content content treated treated with with potassium potassium (of (ofwhich must not not contain contain more more than 3.5 3·5 g. g. per 100 100 g.). ItIt is is soluble. soluble. Cocoa Cocoa contains various various alkaloids, alkaloids, the the most most important important of of which which are are theobromine theobromine and caffeine. It It also contains con tains about about 17 17 per per cent cent nitrogenous nitrogenous matter, matter, 25.5 25·5 per per cent cent fats fats and and 38 38 per per cent cent carbohydrates, carbohydrates, all ail of of which which have have important important food food value value and and aa stimulating stimulating action. It It is is mainly mainly taken taken in in the the form form of of chocolate. chocolate. Preparation Preparation of of cocoa cocoa - To prepare prepare an an excellent excellent breakfast breakfast beverage, beverage, cocoa cocoa can can be he used used instead instead of of slab slab chocolate. chocolate. Boiling Boiling water water and and milk milk isis poured poured on on cocoa cocoa powder powder and and mixed mixed with with sugar sugar according according to to taste. tas te. A A smooth smooth paste paste can can be be made made by by mixing mixing cocoa cocoa powder powder with with sweetened sweetened condensed condensed milk milk and and then then adding adding boiling boiling water. water. Roasted CACAO ronnfrn TORRÉFIÉ -- Cocoa Cocoa beans beans have have aa very very Roasted cocoa. cocoa. cAcAo light light smell smell and and aa bitter bitter taste. tas te. Roasting, Roasting, as as in in the the case case of ofcoffee, coffee,

ICAQUE COCO-PLUM. rcneun

coco-plum coco-plum

COCOSE COCOSE -- Butter made from coconut.

COCOTTE COCOTTE -- Utensil in which which certain certain foods foods are cooked,

especially especially meat, meat, fowl and game. Cocottes Cocottes are made in earthenware, fireproof porcelain porcelain or glass, tinned copper, nickel, aluminium, aluminiwn, stainless steel, cast iron Iron or silver. Dishes Dishes cooked in these utensils, utensils, in which which they are are usually served, are are described described as en en cocotte cocotte or en en casserole. casserole.

Cocottes Cocottes

249 249 When Wben planning planning aa kitchen, kitcben, for for convenience convenience the tbecooking cooking hob bobisisoften often set set into into the tbe workingsurface working surface (Marc (Marc Held. Held. Phot. Phal. Larousse) Larousse)

Fruit of the the tropical - Fruit

-

tree. It is eaten fresh or preserved. preserved.

COD coD Cod Cod braised braised in in white white wine wine with witb variom various garnishes. garnishes. cABILLAUD CABILLA UD

COD. cABILLAUD, CABILLAUD, cABLIALJD CABLlAUD -Largefish - Large fish of of the the gentx genus Gadus, Gadus, COD. found in in North North Atlantic Atlantic waters. waters. It It has has an an elongated elongated body body found with soft soft grey grey scales, scales, and and yellow yellow and and brown brown spots spots on on its its back back with and flanks, flanks, which which are are white white like like its its belly. belly. A A cod cod can can weigh weigh as as and much much as as 36 36 kg. kg. (801b.). (80 lb.). In In France France fresh fresh cod cod isis called called cabillaud cabillaud and salt salt cod cod isis called called morue. morue. The The flesh flesh isis white white and and flaky. flaky. and smoked, is is excellent. excellent. 1ts roe, roe, smoked, Its

AU AU vIN VIN BLANC BLANC AVEc AVEC cARNITUREs GARNITURF..S DTvERSES DIVERSES -- All Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for brill, brill, sole, sole, whiting whiting and and

nnllsf BRAISÉ

other other braised braised and and garnished garnished fish fish can can be be applied applied to to cod. cod. Cod with with mefted meIted butter. butter. cABILLALID CABILLAUD AI AI BEURRE BEURRE FoNDU FONDU -Cook Cook the the fish fish whole whole or or in in pieces pieces in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Serve Serve with with melted melted butter butter and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Cold Cold cod cod with with variors various sauc€s. sauces. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD FRoID FROID -- Poach Poach cod cod in in salted water water and and leave leave to to cool cool in in the the cooking cooking liquid' liquid. Tartare, Serve with Drain, Drain, and and garnish garnish with with parsley. parsley. Serve with Tartare, sauoe recommended Mayonnaise, Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or any any other other sauce recommended Cold as as an an accompaniment accompaniment for for cold cold fish fish (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold are cold bass garnishes indicated sauces). All sauces). Ali the the garnishes indicated for for cold bass (q.v.) (q.v.) are cod. suitable sui table for for cod. Bone A LA r,c. CRÈME cniMr -- Bone cABILLAUD 6ruvB cream. CABILLAUD Cod cooked Cod cooked in in cream. ÉTUvÉ À 5-cm. cut into and eut fillets and Skin the a a medium-sized medium-sized cod. cod. Skin the fiUets into 5-cm. pepper. (2-inch) with salt salt and and pepper. Season with (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Season in butter butter lightly in (5 oz., chopped onion onion lightly g. (5 cups) chopped oz.,l| 150 g. Fry 150 Fry li cups) pieces Fry the the pieces fish. Fry add the colour, and and add the fish. it 10 to colom, allowing it without without allowing ({ pint, white pint, seant cup) dry dry white dl. (t scant cup) with 22 dl. Moisten with all sides. on ail sides. Moisten on (f, pint, pint, seant scant 22 dl. Ci Add 44 dl. for several several minutes. Simmer for wine. Simmer minutes. Add (se SAUCE). with the the slowly, with Simmer slowly, SAUCE). Simmer sauce (see Creatn sauce of Cream cups) of pan, until cooked. until cooked. lid on on the pan, lid Butter aa cRATIN -- Butter cnirr'c GRATIN gratin CABILLAUD cABILLAUD CRÈME cod gratin. Cream cod Cream (see potatoes (see Duchess potatoes pipe aa high of Duchess high border border of and pipe dish and dish few tablespoons tablespoons Put aa few edges. Put the edges. round the POTATOES) POT A TOES) round (see SAUCE) Fill up up to to two-thirds two-thirds in the dish. dish. Fill SAUCE) in Mornay sauce (see in butter. heated in butter. cod, heated with slices of cod, slices of border with of the height height of the border grated cheese, cheese, brush brush with grated sprinkle with sauce, sprinkle Mornay sauce, Cover with with Mornay Coyer and melted butter butter and with melted egg sprinkle sprinkle with with beaten egg, the border with the oven. moderate oyen. in aa moderate brown in of Season slices slices of A LA I-l CRÈME cnirvm -- Season cABILLAUD À la crème. cr6me. CABILLAUD Cod ài la Cod half-cooked, When half-cooked, pepper. Fry Fry in in butter. butter. When and pepper. cod with with salt salt and cod lid with the the lid cooking with Finish cooking fresh cream. cream. Finish with thick thick fresh moisten with moisten or 33 cream, add add 22 or down the the cream, fish, boil pan. Remove boil down Remove the the fish, on the the pan. on fish. pour over over the the fish. and pour to itit and fresh butter butter to tablespoons fresh tablespoons u. DIEPolepDE CABILLAUD cABILLAUo ÀA LA TRoNgoNs DE dieppoise. TRONÇONS la dieppoise. Cod ài la Cod polsE -- Prepare fish (scant pint, pint,2t cups) concentrated concentrated fish dl. (seant Prepare 55 dl. POISE 2i cups) (scant litre (seant (see FUMET). open tI litre and open Clean, shell shell and FUMET). Clean, stock (see stock (2 oz.) shrimps' oz.) shelled shelled shrimps' 50 g. add 50 pint" 2i and add mussels and 2i cups) cups) mussels e. (2 pint, (To ob allow tails allow shrimps' tails amount of of shelled shelled shrimps' this amount obtain tails. (To tails. tain this (5 oz.) g. (5 150 g. oz.) shrimps.) shrimps.) 150 and g. (1(l oz., butter and tablespoons) butter 25 g. o2.,2 roux with with 25 Make aa roux Make 2 tablespoons) and 1I dl. fish fumet and dl. the fishfumet with the flour. Dilute Dilute with g. (1(l oz., cup) flOUL oz., }I cup) 25 g. 25 liquor inin which which the the (6 tablespoons, cup) of of the the liquor scant !1 cup) tablespoons, seant (6 pinch with aa pin of Season with strained. Season well strained. were cooked, cooked, weil mussels were mussels ch of boil, stirring stirring grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil, nutmeg. Bring pepper and little grated and aa little pepper garniand and 1I tablespoon tablespoon bouquet garni add aa small small bouquet all the the time, time, add ail gently for minutes' for 20 20 minutes. peel. Simmer Simmer gently mushroom peel. mushroom fillets. cod fillets. of the thecod sides of incisions on both sides on both few small small incisions Make aa few Make and 25 25g.g. (1(l oz., o2.,2 in white wine and cook in white wine and cook with salt salt and Season with Season 2 pieces. Bring the boil, boil, transfer transfer Bring to to the cut in in pieces. butter eut tablespoons) butter tablespoons) for 1515toto heat for in moderate moderate heat cooking in continue cooking and continue oven, and to the the oyen, to frequently. l8 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently. 18 liquor inin Add the the liquor into another another saucepan. saucepan. Add the sauce sauce into Strain the Strain few diluted with withaafew and2 eggyolks cooked and fish was wascooked which the the fish which 2 egg yolks diluted minutes over over fewminutes for aa few Stirfor stock.Stir mushroom stock. tablespoons mushroom tablespoons heat, from the theheat, (2oz., remove cup) butter, butter, rem add 50 50g.g.(2 oz.,iI cup) heat,add heat, ove from allowtoto Do not not allow tails.Do shrimps' tails. andthe theshrimps' musselsand add the themussels and andadd boil. boil. with andsurround surround with long dishand onaalongdish fishon arrange the thefish Toserve, To serve, arrange (Phil6as Gilbert.) garnish. (Philéas Gilbert.) andgarnish. sauceand the thesauce into fishinto thefish Cutthe oucrfn6 - - Cut cABILLAUoDUGLÉRÉ Dugl6r6.CABILLAUD Cod Cod Dugléré. (seeBASS). BASS). Dugliri(see forBass ,BassDugléré asdescribed described for Proceed as steaks. steaks. Proceed and filletsand codfillets Skin the thecod DECABILLAUD cABILLAUp- - Skin FILETs DE fillets. FILETS Cod Cod flUets. for givenfor forcod, cod,or orfor recipesgiven ofthe pieces. Follow Followone oneof therecipes into pieces. eut cutinto (q.v.). (q.v.) or (q.v.),sole bass(q.v.). orbass sole(q.v.) whiting whiting(q.v.),

Cod

different ways. In addition Fresh cod is prepared in many different

in steaks or or in this fish, fish, whole whole or below, this to the recipes given below, (q.v.), for brill brill (q.v.), fillets, prepared in any way way suitable for can be be prepared fillets, can any other large fish. turbot (q.v.), haddock (q.v.) and any for cod: are particularly suitable for The recipes are following recipes The following Bercy, femme, normande, portugaise, portugaise, provengale. provençale. Bercy, bonne femme, Cut the the cod Cod A L'ANGLAISE L'ANctlIse -- Cut l'anglajse. CABILLAUD cABILLAUD À Cod àI l'anglaise. (l| inches) from the of the middle of into slices inches) thick, thick, taken taken from cm. (Iislices 33 cm. pepper and and and pepper preference. Season with salt the Season with salt and for preference. fish for the fish with cover with with oil, oil, coyer dredge in flour. in beaten egg mixed with flour. Dip in until both both in clarified butter until white clarified butter and cook in white breadcrumbs, and Maitre half-melted Maître sides golden. Serve with half-melted Serve topped topped with are golden. sides are (see BUTTER, Compound d'hôtel Compound butters). d'hbtel butter (see BoUILLI Boiled (hot) with cABILLALJD BOUILLI sauces. CABILLAUD with various various sauces. Boiled cod cod (hot) in CourtCourt(CHAUD) (culuo) -- Poach in steaks, steaks, in or in whole, or cod whole, Poach the the cod into the the fish into Put the fish III (see COURT-BOUILLON). bouillon COURT-BOUILLOI9. Put bouillonlll(see heat reduce the the heat then reduce liquid when the boil boil then cold, bring bring to to the when itit isis cold, further. and poach without allowing to boil boil further. allowing itit to leave to and leave to poach parsley and and boiled boiled garnish with Drain fresh parsley with fresh fish and and garnish Drain the the fish for recommended for potatoes. sauces recommended of the the sauces potato€s. Serve with one one of Serve with Fines herbes, herbes, Shrimp, Fines boiled Butter, Caper, Caper, Shrimp, Anchovy, Butter, fish: Anchovy, boiled fish: (see SAUCE, White SAUCE, White Hollandaise, Ravigote, etc. etc. (see Lobster, Ravigote, Hollandaise, Lobster, sauces). sauces). BoUILLI Id) with BoUed (cotd) cABILLAUD BOUILLI various sauces. saucesi. CABILLAUD with various cod (co Boiled cod preceding recipe, recipe, (FROID) in the (rnoro) -- Cook as described described in the preceding fish as the fish Cook the cooking the cooking but that the done, so so that two-thirds done, until itit isis two-thirds only until but only process in the the court-bouillon. court-bouillon. as itit cools cools in completed as process can can be be completed garnish with with fresh fresh Drain and garnish in aa cloth, cloth, and cold, dry dry in when itit isis cold, Drain when quartered hard-boiled parsley hard-boiled and quartered hearts and lettuce hearts parsley or with lettuce or with for cold cold eggs. recommended for of the the sauces sauces recommended with one one of Serve with eggs. Serve Tartare, fish: Rimoulade, Tartare, Ravigote, Rémoulade, Mayonnaise, Ravigote, fish: Gribiche, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, (see SAUCE, Green, sauces). Cold sauces). SAUCE, Cold Vincent (see Green, Vincent Cod souLA.NcERE -rl BOULANGÈRE cABILLAuo ÀA LA boulang0re. CABILLAUD Cod àn lah boulangère. pepper, sprinkle with Season sprinkle with and pepper, piece of with salt salt and of cod cod with Season aa piece melted fireproof oven inin aa fireproof lightly inin the the oyen and brown brown lightly melted butter butter and dish. potatoes and onions. and sliced sliced onions. with sliced sliced potatoes Surround with dish. Surround Season powdered thyme pepper, powdered thyme potatoes with and pepper, with salt salt and the potatoes Season the and Bake ininthe the melted butter. butter. Bake little melted with aalittle and sprînkle and bay sprinkle with bay and oyen, parsley and and chopped parsley with chopped Sprinkle with frequently. Sprinkle oven, basting bastingfrequently. serve cooked. in which which itit was wascooked. dish in in the the dish serve in Cod AU VIN vIN sRAtsEAU cnsnrauoBRAISÉ white wine. wine. CABILLAUD braised inin white Cod braised BLANC white forBrill Brill ininwhite recipefor therecipe asdescribed described inin the BLANc -- Proceed Proceed as wine (see BRILL). BRILL). wine(see 250 250

COD

Filleting Nicolas) Filleting cod cod (Ledoyen. (Ledoyen. Phot. Nicolas)

Cod tà la flamande. flamande. cABTLLAL'D CABILLAUD A À r-e LA rL,quA,NDE FLAMANDE -- Season Season cod slices slices with with salt salt and and freshly ground ground pepper, pepper, and place place in a

and surround surround with the potatoes, which which have been dried dried off in the saucepan. Serve butter. Serve with melted butter. This dish should not be confused confused with cod cod with with hollandaise hollandaise saltce, sauce, where where the fish is cooked in a court-bouillon and served with ho llandaise sauce. hollandaise sauce. Cod n à I'indienne. l'indienne. DARNEs DARNES DE DE cABrLLAr,o CABILLAUD A À I'INUENNE L'INDIENNE Season Season cod steaks with salt salt and pepper pepper and put them into a pan on a foundation of 50 g. g. (2 oz., *1- cup) chopped onions lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,2 butter, 2 peeled, peeJed, seeded and chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a pinch of of grated garlic, and I1 tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with with 2 teaspoons teaspoons curry powder powder and and 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter cut eut in very small pieces. Moisten Moisten with 1+ 1t dl. (+ (t pint, t~ cup) dry white wine. Bring Bring to the boil, then then bake bake in the oven oven for l0 10 minutes. Baste Baste with thick thick fresh cream cream and and finish cooking, basting frequently. frequently. Serve with Rice dà I'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Cod steaks steaks can can also also be be cooked cooked in in a a concentrated fish Cod and pepper, pepper, and cover with stock. Drain, season with salt and (see SAUCE) to to which the the concentrated pan pan Curry sauce (see juices have have been been added. added. Serve with with Rice h à I'indienne l'indienne (see RrcE). RICE). meunière. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A À rn LA MeuNrins MEUNIÈRE - Slice the Cod ià la meuniire. proceed as as described described for Bass d à Ia la meunibre meunière (see (see cod and proceed BASS). BASS). CABILLAUD MoRNAy MORNAY - Cook thin slices or Mornay. cABILLAUD Cod Mornay. tittle white wine. wine. Place them them in an fillets of cod in a very little dish, cover cover with with Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), ovenproof dish, sprinkle with grated cheese cheese and melted butter, butter, and brown brown in sprinkle the oven oven or or under the grill. grill. the Mornay in shells. coeuILLEs COQUILLES DE cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD MoRNAy MORNAYCod Mornay Cod This is is useful usefuJ for for using using up up left-overs. left-overs. Pour Pour Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see This into ovenproof shells. shells. Fill with slices of hot cod cod SA UCE) into SAUCE) with Mornal, Mornay sauce. sauce. Sprinkle SprinkJe with grated cheese cheese and cover with melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven oven or or under the the grill. grill. and melted Roast cod. cod. casII-I-Luo CABILLAUD ndrl RÔTI -- Use cod whole or or cut eut in large large Roast pieces. with salt and pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil and a pieces. Season with dash of of lemon lemon juice, juice, and leave to to steep in in this this seasoning seasoning for dash hour. Drain Drain the the fish, fish, put put on on a spit and secure with with string. I1 hour. Brush with with melted melted butter and and roast before before a a brisk brisk fire, Brush frequently basting with with butter. butter. frequently basting Remove the the fish from the the spit. Dilute Dilute the pan pan juices juices with with Remove and serve serve with with the the fish. fish. white wine wine and white The cod may may also also be be roasted roasted in in the the oven, oven, placed placed on on a grid grid The prevent its its lying Iying in in the the pan pan juices. juices. to prevent to florentine. cABILLALJD CABILLAUD EN EN coeulI-I-rs COQUILLES lÀ ra LA Cod in in shells shells Aà la florentine. Cod FLORENTINE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Cod Cod FLoRENTINE shells lining tining the the bottom of the the shells shel1s with with 11 Mornay in shells Mornay tablespoon leaf leaf spinach, spinach, blanched blanched and simmered simmered in in butter. butter. tablespoon Cod in in shells sbeUs au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeuILLEs COQUILLES AU AU Cod GRATIN -- Put Put aa border border of of sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms round round the the edges edges cRATIN of the the shells. shells. Pour Pour in in Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Fill with with of

buttered buttered baking tin tin sprinkled with with chopped chopped shallots shallots and chopped parsley. Cover Cover with dry white white wine and put a slice of peeled peeled lemon on on each each piece piece of cod. cod. Bring to to the the boil. Finish cooking cooking in the the oven, oven, allowing about l2 12 minutes. Drain Drain the fish fish and arrange on a long long dish. Bring the pan pan juices juices to the the boil, add I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter, pour the sauce sauce over over the the fish, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley.

Fried Fried cod cod

Fried Fried cod. cod. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT - Cut Cut the the fish fish into into 2l-cm. 2-i-cm. (l-inch) (l-inch) thick thick slices. Dip Dip in in cold cold boiled boiled milk. milk. Dredge Dredge in in flour flour and and deep-|ry deep-fry in in sizzling fat. fat. Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, c1oth, and and sprinkle with salt. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and quarters quarters of of lemon. lemon. Fried breadcrumbs. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT reNf PANÉ -- Dip Fried cod cod in breadcrumbs. slices slices of of cod cod in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry as as above. above. Drain, Drain, season, season, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon, Jemon, and serve serve with with Maitre Maître d'hitel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Fried Fried cod cod Orly. Orly. clnnLAUD CABILLAUD FRrr FRIT oRLy ORLY -- Cook Cook cod cod fillets fillets as as

in in Whiting Whiting Orly Orly (see (see WHITING). WHITING).

Cod Cod au au gratin. gratin. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU GRATTN GRATIN -- Prepare Prepare and and cook cook cod cod steaks steaks or or fillets fillets like like Brill BrUI au au gratin gratin (see (see BRILL). BRILL). Gritled Grilled cod. cod. cnnllr,ruo CABILLAUD cnrlrf GRILLÉ -- Season Season cod cod steaks steaks with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter or or oil, oil, and and cook cook under under aa moderate moderate grill. grill. Put Put aa slice slice of of peeled peeled lemon lemon on on each each

steak steak and and garnish garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Maitre Maître d'hbtel butter or or one one of of the the sauces sauces recommended recommended for for grilled grilled d'hôtel butter fish SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). fish (see (see SAUCE; Codi Cod à la la hollandaise. hollandaise. cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD A À r-.q, LA Hor-rnNonrsr HOLLANDAISE -- Cook Cook aa piece piece of of cod cod in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILCOURT-BOUILLON), LON), together together with with good, good, mealy mealy potatoes. potatoes. Drain Drain the the fish fish 251 251

coD COD Boiled Boiled salt salt cod cod with wim variou various sauces. sauces. MoRUE MORUE nounrm BOU1LLΠ-- Wash

small pieces of of cod, put a cooked mushroom mushroom in the middle middle and cover rith Mornay sauce. Sprinkle with wilh grated breadwith Mornay crumbs and and melted melted butter, butter, and brown brown under under the the grill. Sprinkle with chopped parsley just just before serving. serving. To with chopped keep keep the fish fish from from spilling spilling out of the the shells, sllells, a a border border of Duchess Duchess potatoes potolOes (see (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) can be piped round the

and cod fillets fillets and and cut cut into into pieces. pîeces. Roll RoU these thcse into into and soak soak cod scrolls water, as as indicated îndicatOO in in the the serolls and and tie them. them. Poach in water, introduction introduction to this this section. sectîon. Drain the cod coo scrolls, untie them and garnish with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with boiled Bâtarde. boiled potatoes potatoes and a sauce: sauce: Bdtarde, Caper, Cream, Muswrd, Cream, Curry, Curry, Parsley, Parsley. Hollandaise, Ho/landai.se. Mustard, Ravigote, RavÎgoLe, Saint-Malo, Saint-Malo, etc. (see (sa: SAUCE). SAUCE). Bouillabaisse Bouillabaisse of of salt saJt cod. cod, nounrABArss BOUILLABAISSE DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) chopped onion anion and and 50 g. (2 oz., *t cup) chopped in oil oil without without browning. When When these these vegetables vegetables chopped leek leek in are seeded, chopped tomatoes tomatoes and a are tender, tender, add 22 skinned, seeded, crushed c10ve of of garlic. garlic. Cook Cook rapidly rapidly for for 55 minutes. minutes. Moisten Moisten crushed clove with I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant,+ cup) cup) white white wine, wine, and 55 dl. dl. (scant 2t cups) water or fish fish fumet jumel (q.v.), and and add a (seant pint" pint, 2* generous into this generous pinch pinch of saffron. saffron. Bring to to the the boil. boiL Put Putinto this stock 750 75ü g. g. (l* (If lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of of salt cod cut eut into into pieces. pieces. Pour Pour in in 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant ft pint) pint) oil. oil. Season with with a pinch pjnch of freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. Cover Cover the the saucepan and boil boil fast fast for for 25 minutes. minutes. At At the the last last moment moment add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Serve bouillabaisse with with slices slices of of toasted toasted bread, bread, or, if if Serve the the bouillabaisse preferred, the can be he served servOO in in a tureen tureen rvith with slices slices of of the soup can French bread bread in in it, il, and and the the fish fish served separately. separately. Bouillabaisse Boui11abaisse of salt cod cod ià la la m6nagdre. ménagère. BourLLABArsE BOUlLLABA1SE DE DE MoRUE MORUE A À rA LA rvr6llA,cirns mNAGÈRE -- Cook Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 oz., I1 cup) finely fmely chopped onion 50 g. (2 oz, oz., *! cup) cup) chopped leek leek in in I1 dl. dl. onion and and 50 (6 tablespoons, tableS1JOClnS, scant] seant! cup) cup) oil. oil. They They should should not not brown. brown. Add Add 2 crushed garlic garlie cloves cloves and moisten moisten with with I1 litre litre (If, (Ij pints, generous generous quart) quart) water. water. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, add aa pinch of saffron saflron and aa bouquet bouquet garni, garni, and and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. pinch of Add (II oz.) thickly thickly sliced sliced potatoes potatoe:s and and boil bail for for 12 12 Add 300 300 g, (ll minutes. minutes. Now add 750 750 g. g. (l* (Ii lb.) lb.) salt cod cod cut cut into ioto pieces. pieces. Pour Pour 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant * cup) cup) oil oil into inlo the Ihe pan. pan. Cover, Cover, and and boil bouquet garni garni and, and add I1 boil fast. fast. Before Befoœ serving, serving, remove remove the the bouquet tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley. parsley. Serve Serve the the bouillabaisse with with slices slices of of toasted 10astOO bread, bread, rubbed rubbed with soakOO in in aa little liUle of of the the cooking cooking stock. stock. with garlic garlic and and soaked Brandade salt cod. cod. nuNnADE BRANDADE DE DE MoRTJE MORUE -- Wash Wash and and Brandade of of saft soak soaklI ke. kg. Qt (2* lb.) lb.) salt cod coo and and cut into into pieces. pieces. Poach Poach in in water minutes. Drain, Drain,. remove remove skin skin and and bones, bones, and and water for for 88 minutes. flake Heat 22 dl. dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant cup) Clip) olive olive oil oil in in aa ftake the the flesh. flesh. Heat heavy, heavy, flat-bottomed flat-bottomed saucepan saucepan until unti! itil begins begins to to smoke. smoke. Put Put in in the the cod cod and and add add aa aa small small crushed crushed clove cl ove of of garlic. garlîc. Work Work the the mixture mixture on on the the stove stove with with aa hard hard wooden wooden spoon spoon until until itit isis reduced reducOO to to aa smooth smooth paste. Turn Tum the the heat heat very very low low and and keep keep on al aa time, time, 55 dl. dl. on working working the the brandade, adding, adding, aa little little at (scant 2* cups) cups) oil. oiL Still Slill stirring, stirring, add 2l 2~ dl. dl. (scant (seant }1(seant pint" pint, 2{ pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) boiled boilOO milk milk or or fresh fresh cream, cream, pouring pouring in in aa little little at at aa time. time. Season Season with with salt salt and and white white pepper. When brandade isis ready, ready, itit should should have have the appearance appearance When the the brandade of ofaa white whi te paste, pas le, very very smooth, smooth, with with the the consistency consistency of ofmashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. Garnish of bread bread fried fried in in butter butter or or oil, oil, or or Garnish with witb triangles triangles of with with cro0tes croûtes of of French French bread, fried fried in in oil. ou. Brandade Brandade of ofsalt salt cod cod Ià la la Nantua. BRANDADE BRANDADE nr DE uonuE MORUE AÀ r-.1 LA NANTUANANTUA - Prepare the the brandade brandade as as indicated indicared above, above, moistenmoistening îng itil with with fresh cream. cream. Serve Serve in in aa bowl, bowl, alternating alternating the the brandade brandade with with layers layers of of aa ragoitt of of crayfish crayfish tails. tails. Surround Surround with with strips of of truffie trume tossed lossOO in butter, butter, and and garnish gamish with with slices slices of of bread frid in in butter. butter. Brandade Brandade of of salt salt cod cod widr witll tnffes. truHIes. BRANDADE BRANDADE DE DE MoRUE MORUE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES -- Make Make the the brandade brandade as as indicated indicated above. above. Add Add diced dicOO truffies truffies tossed tossed in in butter. bUller. Cover Cover with with strips of of truffie truffle also in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with slices sliœs of of bread fried friOO in in also tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sah Salt cod cod with with brown brown butter. butter. MoRUE MORlŒ AU AU BEURRE BEURRE Non NOIR -- Put Put the and the trimmed, trimmed, poached poached and and drained drained cod cod on on aa serving serving dish dish and

edges.

Cod in shells sbells ià la Nantua. Nantua, cABTLLAUD CABILLAUD EN EN coeurI.I.rs COQU1LLES A À I-l LA NANTUANANTUA - Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipesfor recipes for Cod Cod Mornay Mornay in in shells shells replacing replacing Mornay Mornay sauce sauce by by Nantua Nan/ua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). of truffie, truffie, heated heated in SA UCE). Before Before serving serving put put a large large slice of butter, butter, into jnto each shell. shell. Cod Cod in white white wine. wine. cABILLAUD CABILLAUD AU AU vrN VIN BLANc BLANC -- Using Using cod slices Of fillets, fil lets, proceed proceed as as for for Brill Bril! in white white wine wine see BRILL). BRILL). slices or

SALT SALT COD. COD. laonus MORUE -- Wash Wash thoroughly under under aa running running tap, cut imo pieces pieces and soak soak for 24 24 to 36 hours in cold water. water. eut into Drain Drain the the cod, put put it in in aa pan and and cover cover the the fish fish with cold cold water. Heat, and at the the first signs of bubbling, bubbling, skim the the water. Heat, water 15 to to waler and and lower lower the the heat. heaL Cover Co ver the the pan, and and poach poach for for 15 l8 18 minutes, minutes, according according to the the size of the the pieces. The water water must must not not boil. boil. Drain Drain well weIl and and prepare prepare according to ta the the recipe recîpe chosen. chosen. i I'anglaise Salt lNcrltss -- Poach Salt cod codA l'anglaise I.1. uonun MORUE A À rL'ANGLAISE Poach the the cod cod in water. water. Drain. Drain. Garnish Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley and and serve with with parsnips in salt water water and drained, and and hard-boiled hard-boiled parsnips boiled boiled in egg egg sauce. sauce. Salt SaIt cod coo ià I'anglaise J'anglaise II. n. rraonue MORUE A À r'.Luclilrsn L'ANGLAISE -- Wash Wash and and soak soak fillets flllets of of salt salt cod cod and and cut eut into into thin thin slices, slices, gently gently flattenflaltening fry in in butter, bUller, and and ing them. them. Dip Dip in in egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fry cover cover with with partly partly melted Maitre Maître d'hitel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Serve Serve with wilh boiled boiled potatoes. potaloes. Salt Salt cod cod iIl la la bamboche. bamboche. rrronuE MORUE A À ra LA n.lMsocHE BAMBOCHE - Cut CUl washd washed and and soaked soaked fillets /lIlets of of cod cod into inlO thin thin slices. slices. Dip Dip in in milk, milk, then in boiling boiling oil. oiL theu flour. flour. Twist Twist into into spirals spi raIs and and deep-fiy deep-fry in Drain, Drain, dry dry in in aa cloth. clotho Fill Fill aa bowl bowl with with aa macddoine macédoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables blended blended with with butter butter or or cream, cream, and and arrange arrange the the fillets on on top. top. Salt Salt cod cod ià la la b6chamel. ~chamel. rraonue MORUE A À ra LA efcHltrtrr BÉCHAMEL -- Poach Poach the the fish cod hot. hot. Spread itit in in fish in in water. water. Trim Trîm and and flake, t'lake, keeping keeping the the cod layers layers in in aa dish dish and and pour pour over over each each layer layer aa few few tablespoons tab,lespoc:ms Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), with with butter butter and and fresh fresh cream cream added. added. Salt Salt cod cod ià la la benedictine. bénédictine. rvronue MORUE A À rn LA nfN6orcrrNE BENÉDlCT1NE -- Wash Wash and (21 lb.) lb.) cod. cod. Poach, Poach, drain, drain, remove remove skin skin and and and soak soak I1 kg. Qt bone, bone, and and flake the the fish. fish. Dry Dry in in the the oven oven for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Mix in aa mortar mortar with with 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1lb.) lb.) boiled boiled potatoes potatoes Mix in which drainOO and and dried dried in in the the oven. oven. Work Work this this which have have been been drained mixture absorbs 22dl. dl. (+ (l pint pint, scant seant cup) cup) oil oil and and 33 dl. dL mixture so so that thal itil absorbs (~ pinq pint, lfli cups) cups) boiled boiled milk, milk, taking care care to ta add add these thesc G ingredienm ingredients alternately, alternately, aa little little at al aa time. lime. When the the mixture mixture isis smooth smooth and and moist, moist, put put itit in in aa buttered butterOO baking bakîng dish, dish, smooth smooth the on melted mell ed butter, butter, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. the surface, pour on Brandade of salt cod oflen served served under under the the cod with with trufres truffles isis often name of salt salt cod cod d à la la bdnidictine. bénédictine. This This dish dish is is a a kind kind of of name of brandade brandade ofpotatoes, of potatoes, browned brownOO in in the the oven. oven. Sah Salt cod cod Ià la la Benoitorl Belloiton. MoRUE MORUE AÀrA LA nsNonoN BENOITON -- Brown Brown very lightly in oil oil and and butter butter 150 \50 g. g. (5 (5 oz, oz., lf 1-!- cups) cups) finely finely sliced lightly in onions. on ions. Sprinkle Sprinkle with wilh 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) flour ROUf and and cook cook for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Moisten Moisten with wilh 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2J cups) cups) red red wine wine and and l+
*

2s2 252

COD

( Rober t Carrier) Brandade of cod (Robert C arrier) of salt salt cod

253

COD kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) cod into pieces pieees and lay them on top tender. Cut I1 kg. of Moisten of half half the onions. onions, Cover Cover with with the remaining remaining onions. onions, Moisten (f pint,3 g. (5 oz,) with dl. (t oz.) with l| li dl. pint, 3 cup) dry white wine. wine, Add Add 150 g, diced mushrooms. Cover the and cook mushrooms, Cover the pan and cook for 6 minutes. minutes, cream. Cover and Moisten with Moisten with a few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick fresh cream, l0 minutes. simmer for 10 minutes, Salt cod ài la languedocienne. Salt languedocicllJlc. MoRUE MORL" A À ra LA raNcuEDocrENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Cut 1I kg.Qi kg, (2t lb.) lb,) desalted cod in pieces and cook in water. Drain, and put into aa ragofit of potatoes prepared as Drain, and put it it into ragoûl of follows: Cut 1I kg. kg, (2+ (2t lb.) lb,) potatoes into quarters and brown lightly in Sprinkle with oil. Sprinkle in oiL with I1 tablespoon flour and and fry for a few the pan all ail the the time, Add aa crushed crushed few seconds, shaking the time. Add garlic. Moisten clove of garEc, of the fish cooking Moisten with wi th a little of cooking stock garni. and and add a bouquet garni, and bake in the oven oven for 25 minutes, then Cover the dish and remove Sprinkle with chopped parsley. the bouquet garni. rem ove the garni, Sprinkle with chopped parsley, ragoitt, pour oil over it Place the pieces cod on top of the ragoût, it pieees of cod and finish cooking in the oven for 5 to 6 minutes. minutes, Monus A cod ài la Salt cod Salt la lyonnaise lyonnaise (Car0me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). MORUE À rl LA cod. Dry in a saucepan LvoNNAISELYONNAISE Boil, Boil, drain and flake the cod, oven. over low heat. heat, or in the oven, Dice three large on and cook onions Diee ions and cook in in butter over aa gentle gentlc golden. Brown the cod heat cod in same pan. Season in the the same pan, Season heat until until golden, grated nutmeg and lemon with butter, butter, grated lem on juice, juice, and serve.' serve.' d'hOtel. MORUE MoRUE A Salt cod iil la maitre d'hôtel. À r-4, LA udrne MAÎTRE o'u6tEL D'HÔTELPoach and flake the cod, cod. Put in aa dish Poach and dish with alternate layers cover with with partly of sliced sliced boiled of boiled potatoes, potatoes, and and cover partly melted Maitre d'h6tel bUller BUTTER, Compound !JUliers), butters). butter (see BUTTER, MaÎlre d'hôtel mayonnaise. MAyoNNATsE Sali MAYONNAISE DE MoRUE-Trim, MORU!: Trim, poach Salt cod mayollJlaise. and flake cod. Prepare as Cold salmon the sa same and f1ake the the cod, Prepare in the me way as mayonnaise (see SALMON), mayonnaise SALMON). MoRUE A meuniire. MORUE Salt cod ià la meunière. Salt À ra LA IusuNIins MEUNIÈRE -- Slice Sliee raw Arrange on a long dish, fillets of of cod, cod. Flour and fry in butter. Arrange chopped parsley. sprinkle with lemon sprinkle Icmon juice juiee and chopped parsley, Pour sizzling butter over the fish. fish, MoRUE MlREILLE MIRETLLE cod fillets fillets into Cut cod Salt cod cod Mireille. Salt Mireille. MORUE - Cut pieces and brown quickly in equal size, pieces of equal Flour, and in smokingsize. Flour, g. as follows: Cook 50 g, hot oiL fondue of tomatoes as oil. Prepare aafondue (2 chopped on and oz, 1 cup) chopped onion skinned, seeded seeded and (2 oz" ion with with 44 skinned. * cup) garlic in clove of chopped tomatoes and and 1 of choppcd chopped garlic choppcd in oil. ] clove and 1 teaspoon with salt saffron. Cook and pepper and Season \Vith salt and Season teaspoon saffron, all the liquid has evaporated, Moisten with 3 dl. until almost ail evaporated. Moisten wine. Cook for for 10 l0 minutes. 0:(| pint, lfI~ cups) white wine, minutes, (see PILAF), PILAF). Cover with pitaJ(see Serve with aa border of Rice pilaf top and sprinkle sprinkle sauce. Arrange black olives on top the the tomato tomato sauce, parsley. with chbpped with chbpped parsley, MoRIIE MORNAY MoRNAy -- Trim, poach and drain Mornay. MORUE Salt Sah cod Momay. pieces of cod, an ovenware ovenware dish dish on aa layer of Mornay pieces cod. Put in an more of Sprinkle with and cover cover with with more of the sauce. Sprinkle sauce, and sauce, the sauce, in the grated cheese, add and brown add small pieces butter, and brown in gratcd pieees of butter, oven. oven, I'occitane. MORUE MoRUE À A L'OCCITANE r'occrrlr.IE - Heat 5 tablecod ài l'occitane. Salt cod (6 tablespoons) oil with an ovenwith 1I clove of garlic in an spoons (6 (l* lb,) g. (H lb.) cooked, dish. Add the following in layers: 750 g, ware dish, 4 sliced eggs, 4 sliced boiled flaked salt cod, 33 sliced sliced hard-boiled salt cod, f1aked hard-boilcd eggs, and diced diced tomato which has been which has potatoes, 1I large peeled and capers. oil,24 olives, 1I tablespoon capers, cooked in in oil, 24 black olives, with sliced eggs, black Decorate the sliced hard-boiled dish with the dish Decorate hard-boiled eggs, black lemon. Pour on aa few tablespoons slices of peeled peeled lemon, olives olives and sliees gently. ground pepper and heat heat gently, with freshly freshly ground oil, season season with oil, pepper and chopped parsley. Garnish with chopped Garoish parsley, p.nnIsIENNE - Trim, MoRUE À A LA ra PARISIENNE Salt cod la parisienne. MORUE cod ilir la poach of cod, cod. Cover with diced hard-boiled and drain drain sliees slices of poach and hard-boiled juice lemon juiee over and chopped chopped parsley. eggs, capers and parsley, Squeeze lemon pour on few tablespoons on aa few tablespoons brown fish, and and pour the fish, the brown butter in (* cup) cup) fresh fresh hreadcrumbs have been breadcrumbs have which which 44 tablespoons tablespoons H fried. fried, pARMENTIER - Cook and ftake flake MoRUE PARMENTIER cod Parmentier. MORUE Sail Salt cod -

minute or two in the oven, oven. Pour over over it a few drops dry for a minute vinegar or lemon juice. juice, Sprinkle parsley, Sprinkle with with chopped parsley, of vinegar and desired, Pour sizzling brown brov.'Y1 butter over the and capers, if desired. (2* lb,) lb.) fish. cod, allowing2Z1 allowing 225 g. g, (8 oz" butter for I1 kg. kg, (2t fish, codl oz., I1 cup) butter The cod can as follows: folJows: Put the cooked can also be prepared as fish a serving dish, dish, pour vinegar vinegar over over it it and and sprinklc fish on sprinkle on a of parsley capers on the top. top, Fry sprigs of parsley in brown butter and dish, add add to the dish. MoRUE AU BEURRE Salt cod with wilh noisette butter. MORUE BEURRE NoISETTE NOISETrE-, over it it and Poach and trim the the cod, juiee over and Poach and trim cod, squeeze squeeze lemon juice sprinkle parsley, Add Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle with is as Noiselle butter bUller (butter heated heated in in a a frying frying pan pan until unti] it it is Noisette hazelnut), brown as aa hazelnut). MoRUE A cnirvm -- Proceed Salt crème. MORUE À m L'" CRÈME Proceed as as for Salt cod ài la crdme. Sail sauce enriched eniched with bichamel, using béchamel bichamel sauce la béchamel, Salt cod Cld la crea m, cream. gratin. MORUE IA CRÈME MoRUE À A LA cnilrrs lu la crème crime au au gratin. Salt AU Salt cod cod ài la as for cod, and and proceed as GRATIN - Trim, poach poach and cRATIN and flake the cod, gratin. Crcam Cream cod cod gratin, Trim, poach, rl CRÉOLE cnfor.s -- Trim, Salt la créole. MORL" A À LA poach, cr6ole. MoRUE Salt cod ài la drain the cod, flake the cod. Make aa dome of it in aa buttered drain and and flake gratindish on a bed ofa of a tomato gratindish tomato fondue prepared prepared as follows: (5 oz" finely chopped chopped on onions 150 g. oz, l| cups) finely Cook 150 Cook g, (5 l.l cups) ions in in a are very tender. and butter until Skin 4 oil and until they are tender. Skin mixture of oil remove seeds and and crush, crush. Add these these to the onions, tomatoes, remove with 44 skinned, dieed together with peppers, Season diced sweel sweet p€ppers. Season with garlic. Put pepper, and flavour with a little chopped garlic, salt and pepper, few slices of tomato aa few tomato sautéed halved sweet peppers, oil, halved saut6d in oil, little saut6ed in oil, on top of the cod, and pour skinned and sautécd skinned pour a Iittle in the of the hot oil minutes, it. Sake Bake in oven for aa few few minutes. the hot oil over il. the oven juice over the fish, lemon juiee Before serving, fish, and serving, squeeze squeeze aa little Iemon sprinkle with chopped parsley, chopped parsley. cnoeurrrEs DE MoRUE -- Poach salt Croquettes DE MORUE Croquettes of salt cod. CROQUETllOS cod, cod, leave to cool, diœ and make in dice into very small small pieces, and croquettes. Add cooked mushrooms as other croquettes, the same the same way as and and diced diced truffies, if desired, desired. (See CROQUETTE,) CROQUETTE.) I'indienne. MORUE MoRUE AU AU CURRlE, cuRRrE, Curried Curried salt salt cod, co{ called called ài l'indienne. DITE A À L'INDIENNE poach, drain and ftake L'INDIENTc - Trim, poach, flake the cod, cod. Put (scant pint, pint,Zf, (ser, SAUCE), dl. (seant cups) Curry Curry sauce sauce (see ilit in 2i cups) in 55 dL SAUCE). gently. Serve with Riec Rice à I'indienne (see RICE), RICE). Mix gently, d l'indienne nN ESCABÈCHE ssclnEcm -- Wash and Salt MORUE EN m escabèche. escabCche. MoRUE Wash and Sah cod en fillets of cod cod and and eut cut into into thin Proceed as as for for soak thin slices, slices. Proceed soak fillets (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Anchovies à d la Ia grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsd'œuvre), d'euvre\. Filleb of salt cod FILETs DE DE MoRUE Fillets MORUE ORLY cod Orly. Orly. FILETS oRLy -- Cut Cut the raw in aa marinade of Steep for raw cod cod into thin for 1I hour thin slices, slices. Steep hour in juice and chopped parsley, parsley. Dip in light balter oil,lemon oil, lemon Juiœ batter and parsley and deep-fry. Garnish with fried Tomato fried parsley deep-fry, and serve with with Tomalo sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE). balb of salt I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES Fish balls cnoquETTEs DE MORUE MoRUE saft cod ài l'américaine. potato mixture A r',{Mrntc,qlw -- Bind equal parts of Duchess À L'AMÉRICAINE Duchess pO/a1O flaked cod few table(see POTATOES) POTATOES) and and cooked, ftaked cod with aa few (see SAUCE), well and and mix. spoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see mix, SAUCE). Season Season weil cool. Divide into small parts and roll into balls on a Leave to cooL floured board. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. f10ured board, Dip (see serve with with TomalO Tomato sauce (see Garnish with fried parsley and serve SAUCE), SAUCE). rvronue FRITE -- Cut cod into thin saft cod. MORUE Cut aa fillet of cod Fried salt in boiled milk, milk, drain, and f10ur flour lightly, lightly. Deep-fry slices, drain, and slices. Dip in fine saiL in oiL Drain, dry dry in in aa cloth cloth and and season with fine salt. in oil. Drain, season with parsley and lemon, fried parsley lemon. Garnish with fricd and f1ake flake the uomrp EN EN FRITOT FRrror -- Poach Poach and Fritot of salt cod. MORUE juice, pepper and in aa marinade marinade of cod, cod. Steep Steep in of oil, oil, lemon juiee, parsley. Dip in aa light batter and and deep-fry in boiling chopped parsley, chopped parsley and and serve Tomato sauce oil. Garnish with with fried fried parsley with TomalO oiL serve with (see SAUCE), SAUCE). la hongroise. hongroise. MORUE uonuE À A LA rn HONGROISE Hobrcnotsn -- Cook Cook Salt Salt cod cod ili la paprika in chopped onions seasoned with paprika in butter until chopped untii very seasoned with 254 254

COFFEE COFFEE Salt cod cod with with tomatoes ir à la la marseillaise - MoRUE MORUE AUX AUX roMArEs TOMATES A À r^r. LA MLRssrLLArsE MARSEILLAISE - Cut Cut the cod cod into into pieces, pieces, flour, flour, and and deep-fry in in oil. Simmer Simmer for for l0 10 minutes minutes in in Tomatofondue Tomato fondue

the cod cod and and put put itit in in aa buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Cover Coyer with the aa light of potatoes. potatoes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese, cheese, pour pour light pur6e purée of melted butter butter and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. on melted Salt cod cod irà la la Provengale. Provençale. uoRue MORUE A À ra LA pnovsNqAlE PROVENÇALE -- Make Make Salt 55 dl. cups) tomato tomato fondue fondue with oil, flavoured flavoured dl. (scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2i cups) with kg. (2+ (2i lb.) lb .) flaked cod poached in with garlic. garlic. Add Add to to it it I1 kg. water. water. Add Add salt salt and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle with with chopped parsley. few minutes. minutes. parsley. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and simmer simmer for for a few Salt cod cod en rayte. MoRIJ'E MOR (JE EN EN RAyrE RA YTE - Brown 100 g. (4 oz., oz ., Salt I1 cup) in oil. Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon flour. Cook Cook cup) chopped onion in stirring. Moisten Moisten with ]t litre (scant (seant pint. pint, for a few seconds, stirring. 2f 2i cups) red red wine and the the same same quantity boiling water. Mix, Mix, season with pepper pepper and a very very little little salt. Add 2 cloves cloyes garlic, garlic, season I1 bouquet garni and I1 tablespoon tomato tomato pur6e. purée. Bring Bring to the boil . boil. Deep-fry 750 g. (l+ (Ii lb.) floured, desalted cod fillets fiJlets in oil. Deep-fry Add 2 teaspoons teaspoons capers, cover Coyer the the pan, and simmer simmer for a few Add minutes. Roogail of of salt salt cod and tomatoes tomatoes -- See ROUGAIL. Rougail cod salad. salad. sera.DE SALADE DE MoRUE MORUE - Mix slices of boiled Salt cod chopped onion, potatoes cod. Add potatoes and and cooked, cooked, flaked flaked cod. Add chopped chopped sprinkle with season with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, and and sprinkle with chopped season parsley, chervil and tarragon. tarragon. parsley, gratin. MORUE fptNenos eux ÉPINARDS Salt MoRUE AUX Salt cod cod with with spinach spinach au au gratin. (generous 1 I cRlrIwEr GRATINÉE - Poach and flake the cod. Wash 500 g. (generous lb.) salted water, in boiling salted lb.) spinach, for 5 minutes in spinach, parboil for ($ pint, drain and chop. pint, seant chop. Heat Heat 2 dl. (t scant cup) oil until it begins to smoke. Put the spinach Season with spinach into the smoking oil. Season crushed garlic. salt, pepper, pepper, a a touch touch of nutmeg and and aa little crushed Add the flaked cod few tablespoons Bdchamel sauce tablespoons Béchamel Add cod and aa few (see SAUCE). put it in in aa fireproof dish. (see SAUCE). Mix Mix together and and put Shape Shape into a dome and and smooth. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, pour on a little oil and brown in the Oyen. oven.

TOMATO) TOMATO) strongly strongly flavoured with with garlic. garlic. Vol-au-vent of of salt salt cod. vol-nu-vENr VOL-AU-VENT DE DE MoRUE MORUE - Fill Fil! flaky flaky can also pastry also Brandade of of salt cod. cod. Vol-au-vent Vol-au-vent can pastry cases cases with Brandade be and be filled filled with with flaked ftaked salt cod mixed mixed with with sliced sliced truffies and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and blended blended with with either a a meatless meatless velouti velouté sauce or a cream sauce. sauce. (see (see

The codfish type. of the codfish COD-BURBOT COD-BURBOT -- Freshwater fish of type. The and coney coney fish. as burbot, eel-pout and cod-burbot is also known as fish. (q.v.). In In for burbot The method of cooking is is the same as as for burbot (q.v.). in the found in the cusk,is calledy'eshwater cusk, U.S.A. is found U.S.A. the burbot, also calledfreshwater northern Great Lakes and smaller smaller lakes lakes and and rivers rivers across across the the northern country.. latitude of the country

The coffee coffee cnr6lsn -- The cer6, CAFÉIER COFFEE, COFFEE SHRUB. CAFÉ, It isis aa large, large, Sudan. It in Abyssinia and the Sudan. and the shrub originated originated in leaves. evergreen bush with dark shiny Ieaves. The dried. The and dried. The cherry-like fruit is is soaked, depulped and parchment-like husk and and seed is then polished to remove the parchment-like seed outer filament. grains contain contain 6· 6'15 coffee grains Balland, the the coffee to Balland, 15 to According to per cent I l'40 cent to 11 3'98 to l5'30 per cent nitrogenous substances, 3·98 15·30 ·40 per (q.v.). 0'70 to 2 per cent caffeine (q.v.). fatty matter and 0·70 products and Coffee contains alkaloids, volatile aromatic products phenolic series. It series. It the phenolic various substances belonging to to the substances belonging various muscle. cardiac muscle. system and the cardiac stimulates the central nervous system stimulates first man man to perhaps legend, legend, tells us that that the the first tells us or perhaps History, or in the lived in Aden, who who lived the beMufti of of Aden, drink coffee coffee was was the the Mufti drink According to another tradition, century. According ginning of the ninth century. or Moscertain Mullah, or of coffee coffee to aa certain we owe the discovery of we said, called Chadely Chadely or or Scyadly, whose name, itit isis said, lem priest, called

(Nicolas) pot and grinder (Nico/as) Coffee Coffee pol andgrinde(

255 255

COFFEE

Special Special grinder grinder and and cup for for Turkish

cntree(Delius) coffee (Def;us)

is is still still venerated venerated in in the the Middle Middle East. East. This holy holy man, man, upon finding finding himself himself often often overcome overcome by by sleep in the the middle middle of of his his prayers, prayers, attributed attributed his his drowsiness drowsiness to to the the half-heartedness half-heartedness of his his devotions, devotions, and and his his conscience conscience tormented tormented him. him. The The Prophet Prophet, touched touched by by his his sorrow, ld led him him to encounter encounter a herdsman, herdsman, who who told told him hirn that that each each time time his his goats goats at€ ate the the berries berries of of aa certain certain shrub, shrub, they they would wou Id remain remain awake, awake, jumpjumping ing and and gambolling gambolling all all night. night. The The Mullah Mullah wished wished to to see see this this extraordinary extraordinary plan! plant, and and the the

been preserved preserved in in the the trade trade to to distinguish distinguish three three types types of been although the designation in no way implies its origin. origin. coffee, although Medium-sized grains, yellowish, yellowish, oblong. Bourbon. Medium-sized The biggest biggest grains, grains, rounded rounded at at the the ends, Martinique. The greenish greenish in colour. colour. Mo cha. Small Small irregular grains, grains, yellowish yellowish in colour col our and Mocha. sides. convex on both sides. in the wine, coffee gives gives the the greatest production in Like wine, plains, but but the the best qualities qualities come come from the highest highest parts of the torrid torrid zone, particularly particularly from Central Central America America (Guate(Guatethe mala, Salvador, Honduras, Honduras, Nicaragua Nicaragua and Costa Rica), as as mala, weil as from the the northern northern part part of of South America America (Venezuela (Venezuela well and Colombia) Colombia) whose whose products products are are always always highly highly rated. rated. and After the the fruit has has been been depulped and dried and the seed After are classified classified as to size and ripeness. polished, the the seeds are polished, Coffees of of various various origins origins are usually usually blended in different different Coffees proportions. When When green, coffee coffee keeps keeps for for a a long Jong time, proportions. provided it is is protected protected from damp. It is is entirely entirely devoid of provided smell. To release release the the aroma, aroma, coffee has has to be roasted, an smell. operation which which many many coffee lovers lovers insist on on performing performing operation themselves. Well-roasted Well-roasted coffee coffee should be be brown, brown, of of varying varying themselves. degrees of darkness, darkness, but but never never black. black. If not not sufficiently sufficientJy degrees produces a colourless colourless infusion infusion which which is rough rough and roasted itit produces roasted astringent. If If over-roasted over-roasted it produces produces a black, black, bitter bitter infuinfuastringent. sion. sion. During the the industrial industriaJ roasting roasting process process a small quantity of During sugar molasses molasses or or other other product product isis sometimes sometimes added to to 'coat' sugar the berries. berries. This This is is permissible permissibJe by by law. law. It gives the the berries berries a the better colour colour and more more shiny appearance; appearance; it prevents the the better Joss of of aroma aroma and has has the the further further advantage, advantage, for the the mermerloss chant, of of increasing increasing the the weight. weight. It also also enables enables him him to use use chant, inferior quality quality or or damaged damaged grains. grains. inferior aroma for for long, long, and and After roasting, roasting, coffee coffee does does not not keep keep its its aroma After should not not be be roasted roasted or or purchased purchased already already roasted roasted in in should quantities exceeding exceeding one's one's immediate immediate needs. needs. It It is is advisable advisable quantities to keep keep the the berries berries in in tins tins with with well-fitting well-fitting lids. lids. Ideally, ldeally, to should be be ground ground immediately immediately before before being being made, made, as as coffee should coffee ground coffee coffee loses loses its its aroma aroma very very quickly. quickly. ground Soluble coffee, coffee, more more commonly commonly known known as as instant instant coffee, coffee, Soluble was the the invention invention of of aa Mr Mr G. G. Washington, Washington, an an Englishman Englishman was living in in Guatemala. Guatemala. One One day day while while waiting waiting for for his his wife wife to to living join him him in in the the garden garden for for coffee, coffee, he he noticed noticed on on the the spout spout of of join the silver silver coffee-pot coffee-pot fine fine powder powder which which seemed seemed to to be be the the the condensation of of the the coffee coffee vapours. vapours. This This intrigued intrigued him, him, and and condensation led to to his his discovery discovery of of soluble soluble coffee. coffee. In In 1906 1906 he he started started led

herdsman herdsman showed showed him him aa pretty pretty shrub shrub with with aa greyish greyish bark bark and and brilliant brilliant foliage, foliage, the the slender slender branches branches of of which, which, at at the the bases bases

of their their of

leaves, leaves, had had bunches bunches of of small small white white flowers flowers and and

clusters clusters of of small small berries. berries. Some Sorne were were green, green, some sorne were were aa clear clear yellow yellow colour colour and and others, others, which which had had reached reached full full maturity, maturity, were were the the size, size, shape shape and and colour colour of of aa cherry. cherry. ItIt was was the the coffee coffee shrub. The The Mullah, Mullah, testing testing these these unusual unusual berries, berries, made made himhimshrub. self aa potent potent brew, brew, and and spent spent the the night night in in aa state state of of delicious delicious self intoxication intoxication which, which, however, however, in in no no way way affected affected his his intellecintellectuai capacities. capacities. tual He He told told his his Dervishes Dervishes about about his his discovery discovery and and soon soon coffee coffee

demand among among devout devout Moslems, Moslems, who who became much much in in demand became looked looked upon upon itit as as aa divine divine gift gift brought brought by by an an angel angel from from heaven to to the the faithful. faithful. The The use use of of coffee coffee spread spread from from Aden Aden to to heaven Medina, Mecca, Mecca, and and throughout throughout the the whole whole of of the the Middle Middle Medina, East. Coflee Coffee was was taken taken during during prayers, prayers, in in the the mosques, mosques, even even East. in in the the Holy Holy Temple Temple at at Mecca Mecca and and before before the the Tomb Tomb of of the the Prophet. Prophet. Coffee, in in the the Middle Middle East, East, isis one one of of the the first first necessities necessities of of Coffee, life. It It was was hardly hardly known known in in Europe Europe before before the the seventeenth seventeenth life. century. Travellers Travellers who who had had acquired acquired the the habit habit of of drinking drinking century. this beverage beverage in in the the East East imported imported itit at at first first for for their their personal personal this use. Suleiman Suleiman Aga, Aga, the the ambassador ambassador of of the the Sublime Sublime Porte Porte to to use. the Court Court of ofLouis Louis XIV XIV in in 1669 1669 popularisod popularised coffee coffee in in France. France. the As laid laid down downby by Turkish Turkish custonr" custom, he he offered offered itit to to all aIl who who came came As to visit visit him. him. The The vogue vogue for for coffee coffee spread spread through through high high to society; itit was was soon soon in in demand demand and and the the price price was was high. high. society; The Dutch Dutch founded founded the the East East India India coffee coffee trade trade when when they they The introduced coffee coffee into into Java Java about about 1690. 1690, but but itit was was aa FrenchFrenchintroduced man, Desclieux, Desclieux, who who introduced introduced itit into into the the western western hemihemiman, sphere in in the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIV. XIV. He He brought brought one one small small sphere seedling to to Martinique. Martinique. The The plant plant flourished, flourished, and and seedlings seedlings seedling were taken taken to to French French Guiana. Guiana. From From there there itit spread spread to to were Central America. America. Brazil Brazil isis the the greatest greatest producer producer of of coffee. coffee. Central The best best varieties, varieties, known known as as mocha mocha ot or Yemen, Yemen, came came from from The Arabia, R6union Réunion Island Island and and Martinique. Martinique. The The names names have have Arabia,

256 256

COFFEE

'Melior'

Assorted coffee pots (Larousse)

Percolator Percolator

Cona

grinder'Rallye' Coffee grinder Peugeot Coffee 'Rallye' Peugeot

Two-colour stoneware Two-colour stoneware pot

Neapolitan

put his and put his product on on the in 1909. experiments and the market market in varieties ofinstant of instant coffee have have appeared Since that time time many many varieties Since and with great commercial success. coffee -- There are four basic methods of brewing Brewing coffee ground coffee -- boiling, steeping, percolating and ground steeping, percolating and fiItering. filtering. filtering the best method of extractCoffee experts consider fiItering ing the soluble soluble essences from the coffee which is contained in cloth tilter. filter. Boiling water is poured over, ftowing flowing aa paper or cIoth will not not come container where where it will come into contact again into aa container with the grounds. For perfect coffee, coffee, earthenware or or glass with receptacles should be used, since contact with metal lowers metallowers receptacIes ofthe the quality of the beverage. pouring coffee, ground to methd consists of The Turkish method of pouring receptacle containing containing boiling water, a powder, into aa special receptacIe and heating until is on on the point of boiling. This and until the coffee is operation is repeated three times. A few drops of of co cold operation Id water are added added to to settle coffee is is ready. are settle the the grounds, and and the the coffee The French method consists of pouring boiling water on finely ground coffee (but less finely ground than for Turkish perforated disks coffee) contained between disks in in aa recepcoffee) between two perforated called numerous types Among the tacle ca cafetiire. Among tacIe lied aa cafetière. the numerous types of cafetiires the traditional cafetiire àd la cafetières is still traditional cafetière la Dubelloy is still the connoissuers. favourite with coffee connoissuers.

cr6ole coffee. care CRÉOLE cn6olE BOURBON BouRBoN -- Créole Bourbon créole coffee. CAFÉ Cr6ole must be strong and fragrant. Allow 1 I heaped teaspoon teaspoon coffee must ground coffee per cup. cup. Press coffee per Press the the coffee coffee down down weil well and ground proceed as follows follows:: proceed filter into a bain-marie, which must not be boiling. Put the fiIter receptacle. Steep the Keep sorne some boiling water in aa separate receptacIe. of the tablespoons of coffee thoroughly, thoroughly, then, little by little, add tablespoons have obtained the boiling water. Let it drip through through until you have very hot hot in in aa coffee-pot required amount of coffee. coffee. Serve very required which has has been scalded. which AU LAIT LAIr -A LA LA CRÈME, cRiME, AU with cream, witb with milk. CAFÉ cerE À Coffee witb stimulataddition of cream or milk to coffee reduces its stimulatThe addition properties and Dieticians, food. Dieticians, ing properties it into into aa real real food. ing and turns turns it it because its indigestihowever, are indigestiare very very much against against it because of its bility. (ll oz., g. (II Use 300 300 g. oz., 3! 3$ cups) Iced Iced coffee. coffee. CAFÉ cAFE GLACÉGLACE - Use (1$ pints, pints, lf pints) boiling and tf, litre (11 li pints) freshly ground coffee and (1{ lb., 2} cups) granug. (li water. Pour into aa bowl with 575 g. infusion. chill the infusion. lated sugar. Dissolve the sugar and chjll (lf pints, generous quart) vanillaAdd to the coffee 1I litre (Ii litre (scant pint, 2i 2f cups) flavoured cold milk, and} and ] Jjtre ftavoured cold boiled milk, pail. If If served fresh cream. cream. Chjll in an an ice ice pail. served with with whipped fresh Chill in cafd liégeois. liigeois. cream it is called café 257

COGNAC COGNAC of coffee cofree -- Coffee is used for flavouring Uses of flavouring many hot and an essence which which is sweets. It It is form of an cold sweets. is used used in the the form coffee. To flavour creams, creams, roast prepared with very strong coffee. oven, grind, and put the coffee beans on a metal sheet in the oyen, leave to infuse Cover with with a c10th cloth and leave them into boiling boiling milk. Coyer them (See CREAMS, ICE CREAMS for aa few CREAMS, ICE CREAMS AND few minutes. (See for Industrially produced coffee essence and ICES, PARFAIT.) Industrially flavouring creams. instant coffee can also be used for flavouring caffeine extracted. extracted. CAFE DfcArsnu -- To Coffee Coffee with with caffeine cAFE DÉCAFÉINÉ caffeine, attempts render coffee less harmful and extract the caffeine, have been from coffee coffee its its alkaloid alkaloid conmade to to extract have been made extract from This operation, is nowaoperation, which which is stituent (see CAFFEINE). This ofbreaking breaking up the beans days done on a large scale, consists of chloroforn or action of chloroform by to the the action by steam, steam, subjecting them them to other solvent, and then liquid by sorne this Iiquid some other solvent, and then eliminating this heating and roasting. After roasting, the coffee retains retains the same taste taste as ordinary which has has not been treated, without having any of its coffee which stimulating properties. and roots roots have have been Coffee Coffee substitutes substitutes -- Various grains and replace coffee, for adulteration. Apart from used coffee, or or for adulteration. Apart to replace used to figs, dates, chicory, the most important important adulterants include figs, chicory, (mildly astringent), malt, barley and other other roasted acorns (mildly astringent), malt, barley and cereals, chick-peas chick-peas and lupins (used a great deal in Brittany). harmless. The majority of these adulterants are harmless.

Branch and nut ofcola ofcola

extract, in wines, etc. against all cola-based Dieticians are firmly against beverages. cola-based beverages. cream. cRiIr/D À A LA u KOLA rore -- Made by adding a variable variable Cola am. CRÈME Cola cre cola nut nut to kind of sweetened amount of essence of cola to sorne some kind is made by adding the extract to aa thick substance. Often it is (crime pdtissiire), French pastry cream (crème French pâtissière), frangipane cream, cream, cream. Cola cream, cream, flavoured with orange essence, or butter butter cream. is used to fill or decorate decorate cakes and pastries such as Genoese cake, choux, éclairs, 6clairs, tartlets, etc. cake,

Town in in the district of Charente which which has COGNAC -- Town the district (see CHARENTE, given its name to famous brandies CHARENTE, given its name to famous brandies (see SPIRITS). SPIRITS). provide the The distillation of wines wines which which provide The the various distillation of and repasses. repasses.The of brouillis brouillis and The Cognacs Cognacs is done by the method of Champagnes, the Borderies and the special special qualities of the Champagnes, Fins-bois are not apparent until the brandy has been allowed Fins-bois years in 15 to in barrels of the white oak oak of the to 20 years to age for 15 age for to in Limousin oak. district, oak. Several brandies are blended district, or or in blended together to obtain a perfect bouquet. The blend is left to age. For For the boundaries of the Cognac region and its various subdivisions, suMivisions, see map below.

. . Grande

m

(A LA) -- Name given to preparation of fish COLBERT (A fish COLBERT to aa preparation before being fried which are dipped in egg and breadcrumbs before (see SOLE, Sole Colbert). The name is also also applied applied to which is The name is to aa special special butter butter which (see BUTTER, served with with fish fish prepared la Colbert BUTTER, served prepared àd la Colbert (see Compound butlers). butters). Compound FOODSTUFFS, PRESENTATION PRESENTATION OF COLD FOODSTUFFS, OF COLD COLD COLD pLATs FRoIDS DISHES. PLATS a cold buffet,' wrote FROIDS -- 'The basis of a 'is attractive presentation. ludicious Car6me, Ois Carême, Judicious cooking and careful seasoning are also supremely supremely important. Good jellies clarified, perfectly transparent, are essential. These must be clarified, and of two colours only. only. One One of these and two colours these must must be be white, white, the colour.' other aa beautiful bold col our.' good jelly. Car€me gives the following recipe for a good Carême 'Melt fine, fine, dry for 15 15 minutes red embers dry sugar for on red 'Melt minutes on embers to slowly. When it is is reddish amber in in colour moisten colour slowly. bring to the boil over a higher flame. with t] glass water and bring transparent After it has boiled for a few minutes it becomes becomes a transparent caramel of aa beautiful our.' Carême beautiful reddish amber col colour.' Car€me also recommends the use of 'beautiful sauces magnonnaises' (this was his name for mayonnaise) 'one white and the other a fine pistachio green.' glazed with 'Entries must must be with an 'Entrées be dressed dressed with with care, care, glazed jelly, artistically presented, decorated light jelly, artistically presented, attractive light decorated as as possible with trufres, simply as meat from from the simply truffies, meat breasts of the breasts chicken and and pickled ox tongue, and garnished with chicken pickled ox tongue, and with fine ofjelly elegant borders ... . . . these are the rounds of jelly arranged as elegantborders handsome, cold dishes.' essentials in the presentation of handsome, dishes.' presentation of The presentation never be of cold cold dishes The be over dishes should should never of food should not be a work of elaborate or finicky. A dish of architecture. In conclusion, Carême that 'they should be Car6me says that'they voicing the taste of his tas te of put on smooth white plinths.' He was voicing own day, which no longer prevails. cold dish, the more more handThe simpler the presentation ofa of a cold some it is. But there are those who remain faithful to the old sorne

champa,ne~~~~~~~~~

Petite Champa,ne

c::::- Fines borderies

~Flns-boi, ~ Bons-bols

EEB:) SurJères and Aigrefeuillea ~ Eaux-de-vie' terroir __ •• BOUNOARY OF OEPARTMENT

Map of of the Cognac-producing Cognac-producing areas Map

African tree. Its seeds seeds which which are are flattened COLA. KOLA -- African tree. Its COLA. KoLA have aa bitter, astringent flavour, and are in shape, shape, have oblong in flavour, and They contain contain aa high proportion of chewed chewed by by the natives. They is a Cola is caffeine, theobromine, and aa glucoside, cola red. Cola caffeine, theobromine, but does does not not have have any real real nutritive tonic and aa stimulant but is used as aa colouring matter, used as matter, aa liquid Iiquid flavouring value. It is 258

COLZA COLZA entirely edible, they were laden with ornament. almost entirely They can can occasionally be Nowadays, they are rarely made. They be culinary exhibitions. exhibitions. seen:N seen as specimens in culinary

customs. It is for them that we quote Carême's Car€me's rules for the presentation presentation of cold dishes: dishes: 'Fillets of and of beef. beef Dressed Dressed in aa long rectangle, rectangle, glazed glazed and jelly. The decorated The dish to be surrounded by byaa border border of decorated with withjelly. jelly. 'Ribs of garnished with beef. Dressed in their natural 'Ribs ofbeef natural shape, shape, garnished their own own bones, bones, carefully scraped to make make them their them white; scraped to border as above. border cover 'Chauds-froids of chicken chicken. Arrange 'Chauds-froids of Arrange in a pyramid and coyer transparent sauce. Crown Crown with a fine black truffie and with a transparent of lightly clumps of a white white double double cock's cock's comb. Scatter clumps comb. Scatter a chopped jelly on the peaks of of the pile. Finish with a border of chopped clear jelly. This is an entrie entrée of of great distinction. clear 'Chicken salads. Presented like fricassées en en chaud-froid. llke fricassdes heart of of a truffle, place hard-boiled egg with the heart Instead of place tI hard-boiled Instead of aa trufre, mayonnaise. lettuce on top. Serve lettuce Serve with a good white or green mayonnaise. Make a a border border of coloured butter, hard-boiled eggs eg:gs or or coloured Make of hard-boiled decorated with fillets of anchovy. good forcemeat poultry. Garnish 'Galantines of Garnish with with aa good of poultry. pickled calf or ox ox and diced, pickled using plenty of truffies, whole and calf 's udder. Glaze lightly. tongue and calf's 'Salmis. Presented as above. 'Noix (see VEAL). Trimmed 'Noix de into an an attractive attractive Trimmed into veau (see de veau shape and the tetine. Glaze Glaze the remainder of the and decorated decorated with tétine. (By tétine, noix and tCtine, Carême Car6me means the and decorate decorate with jelly.' (By vers part of the noix de veau.) layer of of fat whicb which co covers 'Eel galantines. galantines. Should be on aa bed bed of of shaped, set set on be tower tower sbaped, jelly. Make aa border and decorated decorated with jelly. Montpellier buller butter and of jelly or coloured butter garnished garnished with sprigs of tarragon. ofjelly 'Salmon Montpellier buller. butter. masked with wth Montpellier May be masked 'salmon steaks. May jelly, truffie, Decorate or pickled of chicken chicken or breast of Decorate with with jelly, truffie, breast Make is aU same colour. colour. Make all the the same so that the decoration is tongue, so aa border of coloured bu tter or jelly. orjelly. butter ofcoloured 'Salads jillets of sole jish. Arrange inside aa 'salads of Arrange inside sole or or other other fish. of fillets jelly. Fillets border of moulded jelly. salmon, Fillets of turbot, trout, salmon, turbot, trout, border me way. brill, pike pike and way. For perch are are arranged arranged in in the same the sa brill, and perch whole and perch, coyer mayonnaise and with white white mayonnaise fish with cover the the fish whole perch, decorate jelly in two colours'. ofjelly decorate with truffies. Make a border of Carême in themselves, everything in Car€me writes, 'Cold dishes are everything or all their out ail their man of of talent The man are nothing. nothing. The talent brings out or they are inherent beauty; the from itit and and detracts from the man without taste detracts makes them insipid.' In modern practice the is presented more simply. simply. the cold dish is The old methods, inspired by architecture architecture rather than than by the the arts and al! all the the abandoned and have been been abandoned arts of kitchen. have of the the kitchen, garnishes of aa cold grouped in in the simplest manner are grouped the simplest cold dish dish are possible archiseeking after after archipossible round main disb, without seeking round the dish, without the main tecturai tectural effects. Dishes purpose. On On in shapes shapes adapted adapted to to their their purpose. Dishes are are made made in these, much more more is much and decorated, decorated, is food, simply simply presented and these, food, elegant en supports with covered with when wood wooden supports covered formerly when elegant than than formerly butter, artistic figures figures with so-called so-called artistic plinths ornamented ornamented with or plinths butter, or were were used. used. The and intrinsic shape shape and of tbe the intrinsic most of is to make the the most The object is to make colour with only with surround itit only and to of tbe to surround main dish, dish, and colour of the main garnishes with it. it. garnishes which would be eaten eaten with would normally be Sorne 'futurist' Marinetti Marinetti of the ago disciples disciples of the Italian 'futurist' Some time time ago attempted, presentarevive the decorative presentato revive the decorative attempted, unsuccessfully, unsuccessfully, to tion of cold dishes. tion of dishes.

This fish has Name given in Paris markets to hake. This has COLIN -- Name COLIN (white blanc (white flesh and and is is also also called called saumon saumon blanc flaky flesh delicate flaky and stomach white and head and back are are grey, the stomach salmon). The head of north north Atlantic Atlantic opening up up of Before the silvered. Before the opening lightly silvered. instead of in fishing, the and used used instead of salt salt cod cod in was salted salted and the colin was fishing, European markets. (q.v.) are given for preparation given for cod The methods cod (q.v.) are methods of of preparation The for colin. suitable for alcoholic drinks drinks by by precipitaof alcoholic COLLAGE -- Clarification of COLLAGE qualities may spoil keeping qualities which may spoil their their keeping tion of the the solids, solids, which tion WINE). (see WINE). gelatine. Butter Butter sauce sauce is is somesomeword for gelatine. COLLE COLLE -- Another word times called sauce colle. gelatine to give body body to to aa COLLER COLLER -- Adding Adding dissolved dissolved gelatine to give preparation. preparation.

To slice meat or or vegetables. vegetables. COLL OP. E~CALOPER - To COLLOP. EscALopERslice meat (family (cnou) -- Colocasia COLOCASIA. esculenta (family COLOCASIA. CARAIBE Colocasiaesculenta cnnlInn (CHOU) (Spice Moluccas (Spice herb native native of of the the Moluccas Araceae), Araceae), tuberous tuberous herb are leaves as as weil well as as tubers Islands). Islands). In In the tubers are West Indies, Indies, leaves the West (chou). name caraibe caraibe (chou). eaten as hence the French name as cabbage, cabbage, hence the French gourd family. family. The The multimultiCOLOCYNTH -- Member of of the the gourd pulp coloured as aa table ornament. The The pulp coloured fruit fruit isis rich rich and and used used as table ornament. isis bitter and and aa violent purgative.

COLOMBINES mowith an an outer outer layer layer of Croquettes with of se semoCOLOMBINES -- Croquettes (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, lina HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot horshorslina with with Parmesan. Parmesan. (See d'œuvre.) d euvre.)

Moule Moule ài colonne colonne (Dehillerin. (D ehillerin. Phol. Itr ous se) Pho t. Larousse)

COLONNE COLONNE -- Implement cut Implement used used to core apples apples and and cut to core vegetables lied moule vegetables into into aa column. column. Also Also ca called colonne. moule àd colonne. COLOURINGS. COLOURINGS. COLORANTS in The colourings colourings used used in coroRANrs -- The cookery, and confectionary, confectionary, are are mainly mainly of of cookery, cake-making, cake-making, and vegetable harmless; sorne vegetable origin, origin, and and are are harmless; some are are of of insect insect origin, origin, like like the the carmine carmine of of cochineal; cochineal; or or of of minerai mineral origin, origin, such such as as those derived from from coal. those derived coal. The The colouring colouring most most often often used used in in cooking cooking isis caramel, caramel, especially pot-au-feu, look of especially to improve the of the stock of of pot-au-feu, the look to improve the stock meat glazes and meat glazes and sauces. Liquid caramel obtained by sauces. Liquid caramel isis obtained by cooking (see cooking sugar little water water until sugar with with aa little until itit turns turns dark dark (see SUGAR). SUGAR).

COLD at an an exexkept at FRoIDE -- Room Room kept COLD ROOM. ROOM. CHAMBRE cHAMBRE FROIDE tremely preserving and for preserving storing and storing and used used for tremely low temperature temperature and perishable perishable foods. foods. COLIFICHET - A dry made for for without butter or salt, salt, made dry cake, cake, witbout butter or COLIFICHET-A birds. birds. In (set pieces), pAfisserie, pièces piices montées pieces), which which decorated decorated ln pâtisserie, montdes (set the were called called colifichets, colifichets, to to distinguish distinguish and buffets the table table and buffets were them proper dishes. colifichets were were Although the the colifichets from the dishes. Although them from the proper

COLZA plant sometimes rape seed, an oily sometimes COLZL -- Colza, Colza, or or rape seed, isis an oily plant used adulterate mustard mustard seed. used to to adulterate seed.

259 259

COMFITS COMFITS COMFITS. COMFJTS. coNFITs CONFITS -- Fruits or or vegetables vegetables preserved preserved in sugar, or vinegar vinegar (see (see GHERKINS, G HERKINS, CAPERS, CAPERS, sugar, brandy, brandy, or

and of fibre. and remove the the strips strips of fibre. Cook Cook for for 5 minutes minutes in in a heavy (l pint, heavy sugar syrup syrup -- 450 450 g. (l (1 lb., 2 cups) sugar to 6 dl. (1 2j 2t cups) cups) water. Flavour Flavour with kirsch. Cherry compote compote J. COMPOTE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Put the stoned stoned I. colrpors

FRUTTS). FRUITS).

COMFREY. COMFREY. coNsouDE CONSOUDE -- Name of of various various plants, plants, some sorne of which which are edible edibJe and and used used in in salad. saJad, or cooked. cooked, like corncorn-

cherries cherries in a sugar sugar syrup which which has been been cooked to the large large

ball stage stage (119"-122'C.,246-252'F.) (l19°-122°C., 246°-252°F.) (see (see SUGAR). ball SUGAR). Use

salad. salad.

(ll

300 g. (11 oz.,l| OZ., 1t cups) cups) sugar sugar for each I1 ke.QI kg. (2i lb.) cherries cherries (net (net weight). weight). Cook Cook with with the lid lid on on for for 88 minutes minutes over over low 10w heat.

COMINEE COMJNÉE DE GELINES GELINES (Ancient recipe) recipe) -- The ancestor ancestor

of of the the Chicken Chickenfricassée, for which which one of of the the oldest oldest culinary fricassie, for treatises treatises (1290),le (1290), le Traitd Traité oit où l'on mseigne enseigne dfaire àfaire et appareiller appareiller et the following following recipe: recipe: et assaisonner assaisonner toutes toutes viandes, viandes, gives the 'If 'If you you wish wish to to make make cominie cominée de de gelines, take the chickens chickens and and cook cook them them in in wine wine and and water, water, boil them, them, skim offthe off the fat, and and take take out the the chickens. cbickens. Take egg yolks, yolks, beat beat them well, weil, and and dilute them them with with chicken stock. Put Put in some sorne cumin. cumin, and put put all ail together. together. There There is is your your cominie.' cominée.'

Stir from time to time. Arrange the cherries in a a dish dish and pour pour the cooking cooking syrup over. Flavour with kirsch or cherry brandy. brandy. Cherry Cherry compote compote II. cotlrpors COMPOTE DE cERrsEs CERISES - Put the stoned stoned cherries in a a deep deep dish dish with a a bag containing 12 12 crushed crushed kernels. kernels. Sprinkle Sprinkle generously generously with with powdered sugar. When the cherries are swimming swimming in their their own own juice, juice, cook in the oven oyen in cherries a covered covered dish. dish. Fig Fig compote compote (dried (dried figs). figs). courorc COMPOTE DE DE FrcuEs FIGUES sicnes SÈCHES Prepared Prepared in the same same way way as Prune Prune compote compote (see (see below). COMPOTE DE DE Frcuns FIGUES ruicnns FRAÎCHES (fresb figs). figs). corrlrorE Fig compote (fresh Peel the figs, which should should be ripe and and of equal size; put Peel in boiling boiling syrup syrup -- 350 350 g. (12 oz.,lj OZ., 11 cups) cups) sugar sugar to 6 dl. them in (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water -- flavoured flavoured with with vanilla. Poach Poach for a few few minutes. minutes. Pour Pour the the cooking cooking syrup over over the the fruit arranged in a dish. dish. Pear compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE porREs POIRES -- If If the pears are small, Pear leave leave them them whole, whole, and and peel peel them. them. If If they are large, cut into quarters quarters or or halves halves and and trim trim them. them. Poach the the fruit fruit in boiling boiling vanilla vanilla syrup -- 350 g. (12 oz., OZ., Poach l|1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 dl. (l (1 pint,2l pint, 2-!- cups) cups) water -- cooking cooking only lightly ifif soft. soft. lightly this compote compote is is made with with firm pears pears (cooking pears) pears) IfIf this rub the the fruit fruit with with lemon Jemon and and blanch blanch them them for a few few minutes minutes rub before putting putting them them in in the the vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured cooking cooking syrup. before Pineapple compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE D'ANANAS D'ANANAS -- Remove Remove the the skin Pineapple and core core of of aa pineapple. pineapple. Slice Slice the the fruit and cook cook in vanillavanillaand flavoured flavoured syrup. syrup. Arrange Arrange the the fruit fruit in a dish and pour pour the the cooking syrup over it. Flavour Flavour with kirsch kirsch or any other other liqueur. liqueur. This compote can can be be made made with with tinned tinned pineapple. pineapple. This compote Plun Plum compote. compote. coMporn COMPOTE DE DE pRUNEs PRUNES - Made Made particularly particularly with with mirabelle mirabelle plums pJums or or greengages, greengages, but but also also with with any any kind kind of plum. plum. of Stone the the fruit fruit and and poach poach in in aa syrup syrup of of 350 350 g. g. (12 oz., OZ., l$ I-!Stone cups) sugar sugar to to 66 dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water water for for 10 10 to to 12 12 cups) minutes. minutes. Prune compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE eRUNEAUX PRUNEAlJX -- Soak Soak the the prunes prunes Prune in in cold cold water water until until they they swell. sweJI. Cook Cook in in a syrup syrup of of 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., OZ., 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 6 6 dl. dl. (1 pint, 2\ 2-!- cups) cups) liquid, Iiquid, consisting of of half half red red wine wine and and half half water, water, flavoured flavoured with with consisting cinnamon or with with lemon lemon zest. zest. Cook Cook very very gently. gently. This This cinnamon compote can can also also be be prepared prepared in in aa syrup syrup made made without without the the compote wine. wine. Ali dried dried fruit fruit compotes compotes are are made made in in the the same same way, way, cookcookAll ing the the fruit fruit in in aa thin thin syrup. syrup. ing Raspberry compote. compote. coMporr COMPOTE DE DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES -- Arrange Arrange the the Raspber-ry fruit in in aa deep deep dish. dish. Pour Pour over over aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of boiling boiling fruit syrup. syrup. Strawberry compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE FRArsEs FRAISES -- Prepared Prepared in in the the Strawberry same way way as as Raspberry Raspberry compote. compote. same

-

COMPOTE fresh or COMPOTE - Preparation Preparation of offresh or dried dried fruit fruit in in a thick thick or thin thin syrup, flavoured flavoured or not not with with various various aromatics aromatics such such as vanilla; orange zest; zest; cinnamon cinnamon;; clove; clove; etc. etc. vanilla; lemon lemon or orange Dried Dried fruits, prunes, prunes, apricots, apricots, apples, apples, pears, pears, etc., etc., must must be be soaked soaked for for some sorne time time in cold cold water water before before being being cooked in in the the syrup. syrup. Compotes Compotes are are usually usually served served cold. cold. They They can can be be sprinkled sprinkled with with kirsch kirsch or or some SOrne other other liqueur. liqueur. Simple Simple compotes compotes consist consist of one type type of fruit cooked cooked in in syrup. syrup. Compotes Compotes composies composées consist consist of a macidoine macédoine of various various fruits, arranged in in aa dish. dish. The The syrup syrup in in which which they they have have been been fruits, arranged cooked cooked is is poured poured over over them, them, or they they can can be be covered covered with wi th aa fruit fruit jelly jelly (quince, (quince, gooseberry, gooseberry, apple, apple, etc.). etc.). The The word word is is also also used used for for certain certain dishes dishes (of (of pigeon, pigeon, partridge) partridge) which which have have been been cooked cooked for for aa considerable considerable time. time.

-

l|

Fruit Fruit compote compote

COMPOTES COMPOTES OF OF FRESH FRESH AND AND DRIED DRlED FRUITS. FRUITS.

COMcorr,r-

POTES POTES DE DE FRUITS FRUITS FRAIS FRAIS ET ET SECS SECS:]

Apple Apple compote. compote. coMporE COMPOTE DE DE poMMEs POMMES -- Made Made with with whole whole

fruit, fruit, cored cored and and peeled, peeled, or or with with fruit fruit cut cut into into halves halves or or quarters, quarters, peeled peeled and and with with the the pips pips removed. removed. Put Put the the fruit fruit in in aa syrup of350 350 g. g. (12 (12 o2.,1| OZ., 1-!- cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 66 dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) syrup of water, water, with with or or without without vanilla vanilla flavouring. flavouring. Remove Remove the the pieces pieces as as soon soon as as they they are are cooked, cooked, arrange arrange them them in in aa dish dish and and pour pour the the cooking cooking syrup syrup over over the the fruit. fruit. Apricot COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS -- Halve Halve the the apriapriApricot compote. compote. coMporE cots; cots; break break open open the the stones stones and and blanch blanch the the kernels; kernels; cook cook the the fruit fruit in in aa syrup syrup-- 350 350g. g. (12 (12 oz.,l! OZ., 1-!- cups) cu ps) sugar sugar to to 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2-!- cups) cups) water. water. Arrange Arrange the the apricot apricot halves halves in in aa dish dish and and put put half a kernel halfa kernel on on each each fruit. fruit. Pour Pour over over the the cooking cooking syrup. syrup. Banana COMPOTE DE DE BANAr\iEs BANANES -- Peel Peel the the bananas bananas Banana compote. compote. coMporE

(l

COMPOTES OF OF PRESERVED PRESERVED FRUITS. FRUITS. coMporEs COMPOTES COMPOTES

DE DE

FRUITS EN EN CONSERVE: CONSERVE: FRUITS

Apricot compote. compote. corr,rporE COMPOTE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS -- Choose Choose slightly slightJy Apricot under-ripe fruit. fruit. Prick Prick them them and and put put in in aa basin. basin. Cover Coyer with with under-ripe Soak in in the the syrup syrup for for 33 hours. hours. very heavy heavy cold cold syrup. syrup. Soak aa very While the the fruit fruit is is soaking soaking prepare prepare a a 26 26° syrup syrup (see (see While SUGAR) with with lump lump sugar. sugar. SUGAR) syrup with with white white of of egg egg -- one one white white for for 22 litres litres CJarify the the syrup Clarify 260 260

CONDIMENTS (3| pints, 4t 4j pints) syrup. Strain the syrup through (3-t through a straincloth. Leave to cool. ing bag or clotho wide-mouthed jars and Drain the apricots. Put them into wide-mouthed cover with the boiling, clarified clarified syrup so so that it reaches at coyer (l inch) above the level of the fruit. Fix on the tops least 3 cm. (J and screw bands tightly, then give the bands one half-turn to loosen them. Place a wire wire rack in the bottom of a large preserving pan and arrange the bottles on it so they do do not touch. and touch. Fill the pan with with cold cold water, water, making making sure sure it it covers covers the jars. pan jars. Boil JO minutes. Remove the bottles, wipe and rapidly for aa full full l0 away from the light. seal them. Keep in a cool place, away can also also be be used for the compote. They Halved apricots can put in are put and soaked soaked in aa heavy heavy syrup. are in aa basin and syrup. Half the number of stones peeled and stones are are cracked, the kernels peeled number the kernels and put into the preserving preserving jars with the apricots. and boiling is is the same as above. The process for capping and peacheg plums plums and Compote of cherries, cherrieg peaches, and other fruits fruits for Compote preserving -- Ali prepared for preserving preserving in the All these fruits are prepared preserving same way as apricots. They are boiled for a longer or shorter time, depending on their variety.

added to to food to CONDIMENTS -- Aromatic substances, added improve flavour. improve its flavour. is used for substances which are The term used for The term 'seasoning' is 'condiments' apply to while 'condiments' to those added added during cooking, cooking, while food already prepared. The two words added at the table to food speech. are interchangeable in current speech. vegetable saltpetre, are of of vegetable AU All condiments, e~cept except salt, and saltpetre, origin, origin, and vegetarian peoples, particularly those who live in hot countries, use strong condiments the most. according to Condiments Condiments are are classed, classed, according to their their dominant flavour, into acid, aromatic, bitter, salt, sweet, etc. Acid condiments condimenb -- Vinegar, verjuice, the juice of lemon or and encourage encourage salivary tamarind, etc. buds and etc. affect the the taste taste buds preserved in vinegar; sai salted all vegeta vegetables in vinegar; ted secretion. So bles preserved So do do ail acid through cucumbers, become acid cucumbers, which which become through fermentation; sweetcapers; nasturtium nasturtium flowers; Indian pickles; purslane; sweetcapers; little on onions cherries; sea-fennel sea-fennel or or samphire; samphire; little ions in sour sour cherries; in vinegar. vinegar; melon in example Bitter aromatic condiments is the chief example condiments -- Pepper is qualities are are largely lost in in the its aromatic aromatic qualities of this this group; its its flavour it should be cooking, and to preserve its process of ofcooking, added after cooking. added and ginger can can be Paprika, the various types of pimento, and flavour of ofpepper. used to reinforce the flavour pepper. are dill, aromatic condiments condiments are dill, anise, Among the Among the main main aromatic chervil, coriander, coriander, cumin, basil, cocoa, cocoa, coffee, coffee, cinnamon, cinnamon, chervil, basil, fennel, juniper, clove, clove, bay, turmeric, bay, mace, mint, turmeric, tarragon, tarragon, fennel, parsley, saffron, vanilla, sage, savory, savory, thyme, thyme, vanilla, nutmeg, nutmeg, parsley, saffron, sage, aromatic vegetables. and I~mon lemon zest, zest, and various aromatic orange and onion, shallot, Welsh on Bitter ion, spring Bitter condiments condiments -- Garlic, shallot, (Spanish garlic), leeks, are vegetable vegetable onion, onion, rocamble (Spanish sometimes used seasonings rather than condiments, but are sometimes and horseradish horseradish are are true raw as as condiments; raw mus tard and condiments; mustard condiments, stimulating the appetite. Fat condiments condiments -- The fatty elements (oils, butter, fats) are used for sometimes sometimes classed as condiments, because they are used seasoning. They are really food, not condiments. There are are many Ready-made many condiments, Ready-made condiments condiments -- There distinctive taste accordprepared industrially, which have a distinctive in which which the specific ingredients are ing to the proportions in They include English sauces sauces (Worcestershire, used. include the used. They the English Harvey, etc.), etc.), ketchups, curry powders, prepared mustards, soy sauce, etc. is the only chloride or sea-salt is Salt condiments condiments -- Sodium chloride minerai origin. Its importance importance is is undertable condiment condiment of mineral lined by its frequent use in metaphors.

COMPOTIER -- Deep Deep dish on a raised base, used for fruits, COMPOTIER compotes, jams and and other co cold Id sweets. China or crystal fruit compotes, used for fresh fruits. dishes are also used

COMTE-- See CHEESE. COMTÉ French terrn for rough rough chopping, CONCASSER -- French chopping, or term for pounding in a mortar. pounding (Pfltisserie) -- Roll out piece of left-over Ftaky CONDE (Pâtisserie) CONDÉ Flaky out aa piece (see DOUGH) into aa strip about about 25 25 cm. pastry (see cm. (10 inches) (* inch) thick. Coyer long, 10 l0 cm. cm. (4 inches) wide and 1 long, cm. (± Cover * cm. with a layer of royal almond icing called Condé Condi (see below). (l| inches) wide. Lift rectangles 4 cm. cm. (l-t Divide the strip into rectangles them with the blade of a large !mife knife and put them them blade of them on a baking tray. Powder with icing sugar. Cook in a gentle oyen. oven. Preparation of the g. (4 (4 oz., the Condé Condd -- Beat together 100 g. together 100 and2 sugar and eggwhites. scant cup) icing sugar 2 egg whites. When the mixture mixture is add enough finely chopped, peeled almonds to make a stiff, add thick paste. pas te.

Two much used Two condiments: condiments: pickled gherkins pickled and mustard

Condiment set by Nicolas (1763) Nicolas Lefèvre Lefdvre (1763) Condiment (Arts décoratifs. ddcoratifs. Phot. Larousse) (Arts Larousse)

261 261

CONDIMENT SET SET CONDIMENT Salt isis both both an an element part of element which which isis n integral integral part of our our Salt and body fluids. and bodv fluids, and an an act tissues and ac al condiment. condiment. Ali All our our tissues foods contain contain varying varying amounts amounts of in spite of sa t;; in spite of of this, this, there there foods few dishes are few dishes which which are are not not improv im by the the addition addition of of il. it. are by (azotate or Saltpetre (azotate potassium nn trate) or potassium rate) isis hardly hardly used in used in Saltpetre cooking, but but itit isis employed employed in in the .ing industry industry to the sa ting accento accencooking, tuate the red colouring the red colouring of of meats. meats. tuate (syrups, etc.) Sweet condiments condiments -- Sugar Sugar and and its its erivatives ivatives (syrups, etc.) Sweet as weil well as as honeys, honeys, are are foods foods and and condiments. condiments. In In sorne some as (whortleberri gooseberries) countries, compotes compotes (whortleberries gooseberries) are are used used countries, as condiments. condiments. Having Having aa flavour flavour wh chh isis sweet and sour sour at at sweet and as the same same time, are often often sery time, they they are with roast roast or or boiled boiled the with particularly game. game. meats, particularly meats, Sweet condiments condiments also also include he aceto-dolce of the Sweet preserve of Italians, aa preserve fruit and of fruit and 'egetableg in vinegar, vinegar, egetables in Italians, sweetened with concentrated grape grape . ust or
(Preserved pork) (Gascon cookery) porc (Preserved pork) (Gascon de porc cookery) -- Pieces Confit de Pieces Confit of pork, marinated marinated in in salt with spices, in melted melted salt with spices, and and cookeà cookeri in of"pork, pork fat. fat. pork porc, which great deal which isis used de porc, in Gascon Confit de used aa great deal in Gascon Confit preserved instoneware pots in cookery, isis preserved in-stoneware pots in the the same same way way as as cookery, Confit d'oie. d oie. Confit

(Wine Lodges) The first wine VII\EUSES (Wine Indges) -- The first wine CONFRÉRIES COMRfRIES VINEUSES principal aim lodges date date back back to Middle Ages. to the the Middle Ages. Their Their principal airri lodges was mu mutual brotherly aid, aid, but but sorne some of of them also took was tuai brotherly them also took aa protective interest quality of interest in in the The first the quality wine. The first of of the of wine. protective the prei;ent day (the Sacavins confririas was day confréries was founded founded in in 1905 1905 (the Sacavins present The Chevaliers (1934), which dlAnjou). The Chevaliers du du tâte-vin tdte-vin (1934), which followed followed d'.ARjOU). i[ was was such such aa commercial commercial success success that after the that after Second il', the Second World War War more more and confriries were and more more confréries were established.They· WoFid established. They' all adhered adhered to mediaeval corporato the the spirit spirit and and tradition tradition of of mediaeval corporaail confrdnes or tive confréries or ancient ancient Bacchic Bacchic societies. In fact, fact, most societies. In of most of tive are closer in character them are character to latter despite closer in to the the latter despite the the fact fact that them that some of of their ceremonial ceremonial tends towards the mediaeval style. sorne style. the mediaeval Their celebrations celebrations are are conducted conducted according according to long Their to aa long ruling: chapters, established ruling: chapters, inauguration inauguration of established of members, members, generously laced banquets generously laced with with local local wines, wines, traditional banquets traditional all carried carried out out in entertainment, ail in an an atmosphere atmosphere of of high entertainment, (usually rather earthy) spirits and and (usually good humour. earthy) good spirits The importance importance of of these these confréries confrdries is is undeniable. They The undeniable. They people, French have taught taught people, French and and foreigners foreigners alike, alike, to know have to know and better better appreciate appreciate French French wines. wines. There There are and are almost almost enough of of them them now, however; if there are are many more enough more their their diminished. effectiveness will be diminished. The list list of of confréries confriries that follows isis divided into their The that follows divided into their with comments regional categories, with comments on on the important the most important of them.

CONDIMENT SET. HUILLIER -- Pi ce of SET. HUILLlER of tableware, tableware, often often CONDIMENT glass bottles in aa m tal,l, wooden or consisting of two glass pottery or pottery consisting frame. Formerly, Formerly, itit was was aa magnifice magni piece of silver, silver, placed frame. t piece on the table for decoration rather th t use. on CONFECTIONER'S CUST CUSTARD. CONFECTIONER'S ARD. CREAMS, French pastry cream. CREA MS, French

plrrssIinn

-

See

CONFECTIONERY. CONFISERIE coNFrsERrE -- he transformation transformation of of CONFECTIONERY. into sweets. sweets. It It tends more and and more to be an industry industrv be an sugar into of which the products are sold in sp ial ial shops. One branch of of confectionery confectionery is is the ma making c colates. tes. Long ago ago the the of king of ch Egyptians, the Arabs and and the the Çhine Chi e prepared sweetmeats fruitjuices juices and hon y.. In Europe the use of based on various fruit widespread until after he Crusades, Crusades. and and even sugar was not widespread for aa long lons time time in the hands of apothecaries. apothecaries. then remained for In the fifteenth fifteenth century the crystalli fruits of Auvergne, crystalli ed fruits In flavoured with mber the sugared almonds ftavoured and the ber or musk, and 'gigembrats de de Montpellier' enjoyed enjoyed well-deserved well-deserved reputa'gigembrats regulations promu tion. In 1660, the regulations Colbert underpromul ated by Colbert lined importance of man acture of the ure of of the the sugared the manu lined the the importance almonds of of Verdun. In Diderot's En clopédie several plates work of of the confectioner. With the the discovery of the confectioner. show the the work sugar beet juice of achinery in the ninesugar juice and the advance advance of teenth century, sweet-making develo develo ed rapidly.

ALSACE -La Confrérie Confr6rie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace question La d'Alsace -- Without Without question the oldest known known confrérie confrdrie vineuse; vineuse; established the established in in Ammerin the schwihr in fourteenth century the fourteenth century and schwihr and reinstated reinstated after after the in 1947. Second World War in It has has preserved the the mediaeval hierarchies hierarchies inherited from the corporations. corporations. There There are are three the progressive stages three progressive stages laid laid down for novices: apprentice, companion, master. master. There is is also aa special special category, category, hors also hors cadre, cadre, that that of of 'honorary member'. This is is reserved for official personalities whom the confrdrie considers considers worthy of confrérie of the dignity.

CONFIT d k, turkey, etc., cooked CONFIT - Meat of pork, goose, du in its own fat, and kept covered covered in th same fat to prevent it coming coming in contact with the air. (Gascm cookery) -- Pieces Confit d'oie (Preserved (Preserved goose) goose) (Gascon of and preserved stoneware of goose, goose, cooked in in goose goose fat fat and preserved in stoneware pots. (See (See GOOSE). GOOSE).

BORDEAUX _ BORDEAUXiaCommanderie La Commanderie du bontemps de Médoc - In M6doc et des Graves GravesM6doc, Médoc, bontemps is the name for the wooden bowl in which the vine-grower vine-grower beats beats the egg whites which be used to which will will be

Confectioners Confeclioners at al work (from (from Diderot's Diderol's Enc Encyclopédie) y c lopldie)

262

CONFRERIES CONFRÉRIES

ALSACE

BORDELAIS BORDELAIS

Confr6rie Confrérie Saint-Etienne d'Alsace d'Alsace Saint-Étienne

Commanderie du bontemps Commanderie M6doc et des Graves de Médoc

(claify) his wine. This confrérie, confrine, founded in in 1949, has coller (c1arify) chosen this its name name and and symbol, and and for object for its chosen for their this object ruffie of white muslin traditional headgear, headgear, too, too, since since the traditional the rume decorates the hat resembles stiffiy stiffy whisked egg whites. that decorates Every year, and particularly in June for the flower festival, (vine proclamation of September for the proclamation vendanges (vine of the vendanges and in September celebrated in harvest), the chapters of the Commanderie Commandene are celebrated M6doc château. chdteau. They setting of of sorne some Graves Graves or Médoc the splendid setting are followed by marvellous spectacles and a banquet graced by the best wines. Commanderie du bontemps de Sainte-Croix-du-Mont La Commanderie Sainte-Croix-du-Mont -This, the most recent of the Bordeaux Bordeatx confréries, confriries, also cornes comes banner of of bontemps. It represents the white dessert under the banner Garonne. wines of the right bank of the Garonne.

Jurat de Saint-Émilion Saint-Emilion

Commanderie du bontemps de Sauternes La Commanderie et Barsac - The Sauterneset Barsac-The great white dessert dessert wines of of Sauternes and Barsac have rallied great have rallied of their neighbouring neighbouring red wines. But while emblem oftheir under the emblem robes of latter are the robes of the are bordeaux-coloured, the the vinethe latter bordeaux-coloured, the growers of of Sauternes Sauternes drape drape themselves themselves in in golden-hued growers colour of their wines. velvet, the colour de Guyenne -- The The name La Connétablie name of this Connetablie de confrdrie this confrérie refers to administrative divisions divisions of ancient France. It refers to the administrative itself the task of of promoting the wines wines of the has taken upon itself Premiires Côtes C6tes de Bordeaux. The meetings are held held in the Premières meetings are chiteau of the duc d'Epernon d'Epernon at Cadillac. magnificent château Cadillac. Le Grand Grand Conseil This is is the Le Conseil du du vin vin de de Bordeaux Bordeaux -- This amalgamation of several Bordeaux confréries. confriries. amalgamation La Jurade de Saint-Émilion 'Lackland', King LaJurade John'Lackland', Saint-fmilion-- It was John charter in Falaise Falaise in 1199 giving the of of England, who signed a charter Saint-Emilion. For six centufreedom of the communes to to Saint-Émilion. ries this ries was to govern the jurade, the equivalent of this charter was the town council of Saint-Émilion. Saint-Emilion. powers of the jurade extended domain of of wine, extended to the domain The powers vendanges, as weil well and consisted consisted of the proclamation of the vendanges, and pursuance of as control of the quality of the wines. It was in pursuance functions that confririe of Saint-Émilion Saint-Emilion these ancient functions that the confrérie when it it was adopted name of Jurade Jurade when was 'resurrected' in adopted the the name 1948. by torchlight in chapters are are held Nowadays the held by the official chapters carved out rock. One of the the the monolithic church church carved out of the the rock. proclamation of of the most important is the most important occasions occasions is the proclamation vendangesby vendanges by the jurats from the top of the 'Tour 'Tour du roi'.

BURGUNDY _ BURGUNDYdr BeaujolaisBeaujolais - This confrérie, confrCne, as its name Les Compagnons Compagnons du guilds; indicates, takes its inspiration from the ancient trade guilds; (Parisian dut its Paris section is its is called le parisien (parisian y). le Devoir parisim duty). and the whole of Its aim is to make the wines of Beaujolais and province better known and appreciated. Its this picturesque province Villefranche-sur-Sa6ne. headquarters are at Villefranche-sur-Saône. Confr6rie des chevaliers du tâte-vin tflte-vin -- Founded in 1934 La Confrérie F ounded in at Nuits-Saint-Georges, Nuits-Saint-Georges, this this confrérie confrdrue continues to to be at be exBurgundy wine tremely successful. Its activities to publicise Burgundy have been It has has branches have in many many foreign been considerable. It branches in countries; the commanderie commanderie in intheUnited States, for example, example, countries; the United States,

BOURGOGNE BOURGOGNE Compagnon Compagnon du Beaujolais

Conn6tablie Connétablie de Guyenne

Chevalier Chevalier du Tastevin

263 263

CONFRÉRIES CONFRERIES

REGIoN RÉGION MEDITERRANEENNE MÉDITERRANÉENNE Chevalier Chevalier M6duse de la Méduse

SUD-OUEST Confr6rie Rabelais Confrérie

Viguerie Viguerie royale de Jurançon Jurangon

la Journée vinicole, a publication dedicated to the study and h Journie are in defence Its headquarters headquarters are defence of of wine wine development. development. Its Montpellier. This confrérie confririe L'Ordre L'Ordre illustre des chevaliers chevaliers de de Méduse Meduse -- This Provence, Cassis, Bandol, Côtes represents the wines wines of Provence, C6tes de Bacchic society society of ofthe Provence. ofan an ancient Bacchic tbe Provence. It is the revival of initiated in Toulon towards of the end of same name initiated in Toulon towards the same name the end Vauvray, seventeenth seventeenth century. The founder was Girardin de Vauvray, general administrator of the Far Eastern Eastern seas. persecutions Les Templiers Templien de la SerreSerre - To escape from from the persecutions Les of the Pope and the French King, Philippe Philippe le Bel, a number in Banyuls, of Templars Templars took Banyuls, which then a of refuge in which was was then took refuge protectorate They gave protectorate of Majorca. They Eaveaa considerable impetus is for for this and the wine-making wine-making industry. It is to to viniculture and reason that created an when the reason the vine-growers of Banyuls created that when wines, they chose the patroancient order to publicise their wines, farm of la la Serre, situated in in the nage of the Templars. The farm vineyards, is their headquarters.

is well headquarters are in the beautiful château chdteau known. Its beadquarters weil known. main celebrations confririe of celebrations of of the confrérie of Clos-Vougeot, Clos-Vougeot, where the main chaptels. The latter take place: tastevinages and official chapters. latter take take and Burgundy chants form of aa spectacle enlivened by chants and by Burgundy the fonn copious disnées dlsnleswashed down with followed by copious followed washed down with the the bestwines. best wines. people. foreigners as well weil as French people. It is attended by many foreigners kind are held several times times aa year, a this kind Celebrations of this Hospices de de Beaune. special one being the wine sale of the Hospices This is Glorianves of Buris the important of the This the most important the Trois Glorieuses year, near 22 January, the confrérie confrdrie organises a gundy. Each year, celebration in in one of tbe Saint-Vincent's Saint-Vincent's day celebration the villages of the honour of the patron saint of the vine-growers. Côte COte in honour

This confrérie, La Confrérie de Mlcon confririe, La Mâcon -- This Confr6rie Saint-Vincent Saint-Vincent de ofthe ofthe also under the protection of the patron patron saint of the vine, has MAcon and represents the wines wines of the its headquarters in in Mâcon its weil as tbose Pouilly-Fuissé. whole region as well those of Pouilly-Fuiss6. Les Piliers Plliers cbablisiens chablisiern -- Why this name of of Piliers? It is not 'pillars of members are are 'pillars of wines', because because the wines', but but because the members Burgundy. This nicknamed the 'Golden Gate' of Burgundy. Chablis is nicknamed confririe has borrowed borrowed its name and its hierarchy bierarchy very lively confrérie grand master is architecture. The The grand is called called the from from architecture. the grandThe chapters are conducted with earthy good with earthy architrave. The chapters are yearo at at the Each year, humour in in aa Chablisien Chablisien cellar. cellar. Each the end end of joyous feast 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the feast of of 'Saint-Cochon' November, there is the joyous ('Saint Sucking-pig'). Sucking-pig'),

LOIRE VALLEY VALLEY --

Pouilly -- Based in Pouilly-surLa Confrérie Confrdrie des baillis de Pouilly 1949, has as in 1949, as its which was founded in Loire, this confrérie, confrine, which aim the the excellent dry dry wines promotion of the wines of Pouillyaim the promotion Fum6. Each is aa tasting of these wines wines in in Paris Fumé. Each year there is ta Confrérie Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de la chantepleure Vouway La chantepleure de VouvrayChantepleure is is the picturesque name name for the tap, the Chantepleure the cask tap, wooden vine-grower places in the vat in order wood en spigot that the vine-grower it 'sings'; 'sings'; then to extract the wine. When When the tap to tap is turned it the wine'weeps'. wine 'weeps'. The wine dry or mellow, is Vouvray, dry still or or sparkling. sparkling. The wine is mellow, still year, in Twice aa year, in mid-June and and mid-September, an Twice an official official chapter is held in the Bonne Bonne Dame Dame cellars hollowed chapter hollowed out of of the confririe chalky soil on the banks of the Loire. This ancient confrérie was revived in in 1937. This, the most Confr6rie des chevaliers chevaliers de La Confrérie de Sancerre Sancerre -- This, publicising the recent of of the the confréries confriries vineuses, vineuses, aims aims at at publicising recent wines, rivais rivals of the Pouilly wines, and is excellent dry white wines, situated exactly opposite the Pouilly vineyards, on the Berry bank of the Loire. Confr6rie des tire-douzils -- Based in in Marigny-Brizay Marigny-Bizay in La Confrérie Vienne.

CHAMPAGNECHAMPAGNE des coteaux -- This This Champenois confrérie confririe is is the L'Ordre des the revival of aa Bacchic societyfounded society founded by Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, le le comte marquis et le comte d'Olonne. d'Olonne. Boileau marquis de de Bois-Dauphin et alludes to in his The present-day to tbis this order order in his third third satire. present-day alludes satire. The confririe holds holds its its cbapters chapters in in the cellars or confrérie the cellars or estates estates of firms, as as well as in in other Champagne firms, weil as other parts of France, and great wines, abroad. Its are in Reims. The The great abroad. Its headquarters are in Reims. however, do not associate themselves with it.

MEDITERRANEAN REGIONREGION MEDITERRANEAN Le Conseil Conseil des des mestres mestres tastaires du du Languedoc Le Languedoc -- This confririe concerns produced in concerns itself itself with wines produced confrérie with the the wines in the departemenls of Tarn, Aude and Hérault. H6rault. départements LoOrdre des chevaliers chevaliers du cep -- This This order was created in L'Ordre EugEne Causse, editor-in-chief editor-in-chief of the newspaper 1951 by M. Eugène newspaper 264

CONVERSATION CONVERSATION

VAL DE DE LOIRE LOIRE VAL Bailly de de Bailly Pouilly-sur-Loire Pouilly-sur-Loire

Confr6rie des des Confrérie tire-douzilS lire-douzils

Chevalier Chevalier bretvin brelvin

Les Entonneurs Entonneurs rabelaisiens rabelaisietxi -- What What more more illustrious Les patron could one choose for the wine of Chinon Chinon than Maître Maitre patron Frangois Rabelais, Rabelais, born in in the town and great lover of his and aa great François 'Breton'wine. This confrérie confririe was founded founded in in 1962. 1962. lt It holds 'Breton' wine. This year, at one chapter chapter aa year, at the end of the end of September, September, in in the the Cave one at Chinon. Chinon. As is is the the custom, this this chapter is is accomPeincte at panied by bountiful repast, excellent excellent wines and traditional panied byaa bountiful entertainments. entertainments. L'Ordre des chevaliers bretvins -- This This confrérie, confririe, founded L'Ordre in 1948 1948 and and based in Nantes, aims at publicising in based in publicising Muscadet, the wine of this region, as weil well as regjonal regional dishes. Les Sacavins d'Anjou This is is the the oldest of the modern Les d'Anjou -- This confriries, founded in confréries, in 1905. Its headquarters are in Angers, and its its purpose It and purpose is to to publicise publicise the numerous Anjou wines. It organises large number of celebrations, chapters, chapters, and organises aa large number of tastings tastings in Anjou and elsewhere.

Chevalierde Chevalier de Sacavin Sacavin

Conger eels in an an aquarium aquarium

The best-known type is The is the the common conger, conger, the the flesh flesh of which resembles that of eels, but is less delicate. delicate. The conger used for making making fish fish soups, notably the bouillaeel is cruefly chiefly used baisse, but can be cooked in ways given can be given for eel in ail all the ways eel (see EEL).

SOUTH-WEST SOUTH-WEST La mousquetaires d'Armagnac -- Inspired La Compagnie Compagnie des des mousquetaires glorious memory by the glorious and his musketeers musketeers memory of D'Artagnon D'Artagnon and but of the but instead instead of of fighting fighting against against the the protectorship protectorship of Cardinal, Its headCardinal, it it rallies rallies to to the the cause cause of of Armagnac. Armagnac. Its quarters quarters are in Condom. Condom. La confririe La Confr6rie Confrérie des des alambics alambics charentais charentais - This is the confrérie of of Cognac. The purpose purpose of its celebrations is, of course, to make make the the famous famous brandy brandy even ev en better better known known and appreciated. La Confr6rie Confrérie Rabelais Rabelais de la'dive.bouteille'la 'dive-bouteiUe' - For the wines wines of of Gaillac. Gaillac. Le Le Consulat de de la la vinee vinée de de Bergerac - For the the wines of Bergerac. Bergerac. La La principautr6 principauté de France-Fineau France-Pineau -- This group, group, with with its capital capital in in Cognac, favours the Pineau of Charentes. It It endeavours to to make make this wine better known and and appreciated with with the the help of of numerous celebrations celebrations held both in France and abroad. La La Viguerie Viguerie royale royale de Jurangon Jurançon -- This confririe, confrérie, with its headquarters at Pau, Pau, has has taken taken up up the mission of defending and and promoting promoting the the wine wine that that was was so dear dear to to Henry Henry IV.

CONSOLANTE CONSOLAI\TE -- Glass of wine, beer or cider served to the team of of cooks in course of of their tbeir work.

CONSOMME -- Meat CONSOMMÉ Meat stock which has been enriched, concon(see BOUILLON, centrated and and clarified BOUILLON, Clarification clarified (see Clarfication of bouillon). bOUillon). For the the preparation preparation of of various various consomm6s consommés (simple For consommés, chicken, chicken, game, game, fish consomm6s, fish consommés) consomm6s) see see SOUP, Clear soups. soups. CONTISER -- Term for encrusting chicken chicken fillets, or those of CONTISER game or fish (chiefly (chiefly sole), with truffies trumes or other ingredients !ittle cocks' combs. These are soaked in cut in the shape of little order to make them. them. adhere adhere properly and set at egg white white in order egg regular intervals intervals into cuts cuts made in the fillets. regular CONVERSATION (PAtisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Roll out a piece piece of puff CONVERSATION

pastry pastry @Ate (pâtefeuilletée) which has has already been been rolled rolled out out five feuilletie) which DOUGH). Set Set out out tartlet tartlet moulds moulds close close together on times (see (see DOUGH). times a table, table, moisten moisten each each one slightly slightly and and lay lay the the pastry on top of the moulds. moulds. Flour Flour a lump of of pastry pastry and press press it gently into the

CONGER CON GER EEL. EEL. coNcnr CONGRE -- Large Large fish, fish, also also called called anguille anguille de de mer mer (sea (sea eel), eel), found found in in the the seas seas of of the the temperate temperate zone, zone, particularly particularly those those of of northern northern Europe. Europe. 265

COOK COOK while opSartyles looked looked after after the the fires, fires, did did rough rough jobs jobs and and while the the opsartytes prepared prepaœd food food for for the the household household slaves. slaves. A A woman, woman, the the demiourga, demiourga, only only made made sweetmeats sweetmeats and and other other delicacies. delicacies. Women Women had had free free access access to to the the kitchen. kitchen. Other Other slaves slaves prepared pœpared meals meals or or served served at at table. table. The The trapezopoioslaid trapezopoios laid the the table table and and washed washed the the dishes, dishes, the the oinophoros oinophoros had had charge charge of of the the wine, wine, the the guests. oinochoikos, oinochoikos, aa young young slave, slave, filled filled the the wine wine cups cups of of the the guests. In B.e., Athenian Athenian cooks, cook s, as as shown shown in in the the In the the fourth fourth century century B.C., Greek Greek theatre, theatre, were were often often slaves. slaves. They They played playcd an an important important judging by rdle rôle in in the the life life of of the the city, city,judging by the the taunts taunts poets poets levelled levelled at their their pretensions. pretensions. 'They 'They were were artists artists in in their their way; way; their their apprenticeship apprenticeship lasted lasted two Iwo years, years, under under the the direction direction of of aa cook cook of of reputation, reputation, and during during this this time time they they wore wore the the apron apron of of the the apprentice. apprentice. In In order to to acquire this this difficult difficult mdtier métier the the apprentice apprentice not not only only learnt learnt from from his masters, masters, he he was was given given books books which which set set down the rules rules of of his his art, art, and, and, if if zealous, zealous, spent spent his his nights nights studying studying them. 'It 'It was was only only after after long long study study that that he he could could aspire aspire to ta become become one one of of those artists artists whose whose names names were were quoted, quoted, and and who who became became famous famous through through the the creation creation of of a a single single dish.' dish.' (C. (e. Daremberg Daremberg and and E. E. Saglio, Saglio, Dictionnaire Dictionnaire des des antiquitds antiquités grecques grecques et el romaines.) romaines.) In In Greece, Greece, cooks cooks had had become become persons persons of of importance, importance, all the ruling ruling as as masters masters over over aIl the other other slaves slaves in in the the household. household. A A special law permitted permitted the the cook cook who who invented invented aa new new dish dish the the privilege of making privilege of making it il and and selling selling itit to to the the public. public. Many Many Greek Greek cooks left left famous famous names names behind. behind. Cadmos Cadmos and, according King of of Sidon was was cook to to the King Sidon in in Phoenicia, Phoenicia, and, according result of of the to legend, legend, introduced introduced writing writing into into Greece. Greece. As As aa result the only aa few burning of the library burning of library in in Alexandria, Alexandria, only few fragments fragments literature of Greek IiteralUre authors' names and the authors' names remain remain from from the the Greek of gastronomy. gastronomy. was rudiequipment was cooking equipment early Greek Greek cooking Although Although early rudigradually perfected. Caswere gradually mentary, mentary, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were perfected. Casmade in gridirons were sometimes made were sometimes and gridirons seroles, cauldrons and in from Objects from precious magnfficently decorated. decorated. Objects and magnrncently precious metal metal and show their their Louvre in in Paris, Paris, show in the the Louvre Treasure, in Bosco-Reale Treasure, the Bosco-Reale splendour. like an an egg, egg' or or were shaped shaped like iron were bronze or or iron of bronze Cauldrons of Cauldrons cover. and aa cover. base, chains chains and with aa rounded rounded base, cone, with truncated cone, truncated common chutros, common and the the chu/ros, the chylra chytra and were the them were Among them Among (or pots without kakkabe (or the kakkabe without orna ornament, earthenware pOIS earthenware ment, the the pot, the metal basin, basin, the large metal the lebes, lebes, aa large metal kakkabos\, aa met kakkahos), al pot, pot, ancestor marmite. the mannite. ancestor of of the earthenware pot, olla, an earthenware frying pans, generally generally made bronze,and made of of bronze, and pans, Casseroles and Casseroles and frying we use use (the Greeks like those those we were like food) were pans (the fried food) Greeks enjoyed enjoyed fried pans with eggs, with cooking eggs, dishes for for cooking were special today. There There were special dishes today. row first row Athenaeus says: says: 'The sizes. Athenaeus 'The first different sizes. cavities of of different cavities gooses'eggs, to gooses' the peacocks' eggs, the second second to eggs, the belongs to the peacocks' eggs, the (Deipnosophistai.) These These utensils utensils third to chickens' eggs.' eggs.' (Deipnosophislai.) to chickens' third eugytheke' the eugylheke. placed on metal support, support, the on aa metal were usually placed were amphorae, double-bottomed amphorae, kettles or or double-bottomed Graceful bronze bronze kettles Graceful Food drinks. Food heat drinks. were used to heat used to double-boiler, were modern double-boiler, like aa modern the such as as the or metal metal utensils, utensils, such earthenware or was served served on on earthenware was the and the handles, and horizontal handles, with two two horizontal dish with kane, aa concave concave dish kane, pottery, bronze, silver or or bronze, silver from pottery, pazopsis, aa deep dish made made from deep dish pazopsis, plates served on on ichthuai, ichthuai, plates were served gold. Some dishes were even gold. Some dishes even richly vessels, richly drinking vessels, Greek drinking with fishes. fishes. Greek decorated with decorated poterion. patarion or or pOlerion. were called called pa/arion decorated, were decorated, were there were in Greece, Greece, there Rome, as as in In early early Rome, Roman cooking cooking -- In Roman was place. Cooking Cooking was Bakers took took their their place. such. Bakers no cooks as such. cooks as no cooks. no need need for for skilled skilled cooks. was no and tllere there was rudimentary and rudimentary (568 Great (568 the Great Antiochus the war against against Antiochus the war Not untiJ until after after the Not skilled employ skilled and employ have banquets banquets and Romans have the Romans B.C.), did did the Re.), important more important in society society became became more cook in The rôle rdle of of the the cook cooks. The cooks. bring Athens to to bring to Athens sent to deputation sent the deputation of the return of with the the retum with and Letters. Letters. Art and Greek Art to study study Greek Solon, and and to laws of of Solon, back the the laws back

each each mould mould so so that that the the pastry pastry adheres adheres to to the the bottom bottom and and

sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Half Half fill fi]] each each tartlet tartlet with with aa preparation preparation sides

of of almonds almonds made made according according to to the the directions directions for for Dartois Dartois

cakes cakes (q.v.), (q.v.), or or with with French French pastry pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) to ta which which some sorne powdered powdered almonds almonds have have been been added. added. Moisten Moislen the the edges edges of of the the tartlets lartlets lightly lightly and and place place on on them them pastry pastry rolled rolled out out thinner thinner than th an the the first. firs!. Pass the the pastry-roller paslry-roller over the the tarts, tarts, cutting cutting the the pastry pastry on on Pass of the the moulds mou Ids and and sealing sealing the the edges. edges. the rim rim of the Make Royal Royal icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) Make icing king sugar sugar and and one one egg egg white white worked worked well weil together, together, adding adding aa

pinch of flour flour to to prevent prevent itit running. running. pinch of pastry crosswise crosswise on on top top of of the the tarts. tarts. Put thin thin bands bands of pastry Put Bake al aa moderate temperature. lemperature. Bake them lhem at

COOK cutstNGnE-Woman CUISINIÈRE - Woman responsible responsible for for the the preparation preparation COOK. and cooking of food. The term is also also used used in in France to and describe describe a small household cooking-stove. cooking-stove.

COOKIES COOKlES -- See BISCUIT. BISCUIT. wotd caisine cuISINE CUISINE - The French French word cuisine is used for of preparing dishes (cooking) (cooking) and the place place (kitchen) (kitchen) the art ofpreparing the in which they are prepared.

COOKING. COOKlNG.

Cooking is an ancient art, born when wh en primitive primitive man first tirst Cooking discovered that if if a hunk of meat was placed placed near the fire it it Some ingenious man easier to tasted better, better, and and was was easier to eat. eat. Some tasted stone hollowed found a way of heating water in a Slone hollowed out into a The spit basin. The clay vase vase succeeded this primitive primitive pot. po!. The and the pot, pot, however rudimentary in in the beginning, made as possible. Prehistoric Prehistoric finds such as many culinary operations possible. fragments of of pottery, pottery, flint and bronze bronze implements and traces fragments cooking. of hearths throw throw light on the origins of ofhearths ofcooking. described Cooking Cooking among the Egyptians and Assyrians is described BANQUET. under BANQUET.

cook Greek cook Greek

was the cook was the Greece the the only only cook In early early Greece Greek Greek cooking cookiry -- ln The name name baker. The real cook, cook, but but aa baker. not aa real who was was not mageiros, who mageiros, cakeo or or or kneaded cake, barley bread bread or madza, barley fuommagis, magis. mat!za, comes comes from knead. metto, to to knead. ftom masso, masso, malto, [rom Female exist. Female not exist. mageiros did did not the mageiros Homer's time time the In In Homer's to prepared the According to food. According the food. ground the corn and and prepared the corn slaves ground slaves exalted, however exalted, host himself, himself, however the host the Odyssey, Odyssey, the the the J/iad lliad and and the when friends when with the the help help of of friends meals with prepared and cooked the the meals prepared and cooked guests. distinguished guests. he received received distinguished he masters. for his his masters. well as as baked baked for cooked as as weil Later, the mageiros cooked Later,themageiros was and was de cuisine cuisine and or chef chef de archimageiros or In time he became In time he became archimageiros given assistants. assistants. given steward, slaves, under under aa steward, hierarchy of of slaves, had aa hierarchy houses Great ses had Great hou The opsonomos opsonomos duties. The definite dulies. had definite Each slave slave had eleatros. Each the the elealros. place) bought food, (ftom agora bought the the food, market place) or market agora or or or agorasles agorastes (from 266 266

COOKING COOKING itit is is 45 45 m. m. (148 (148 feet) long; long ; and this this will will not not astonish astonish you you when wh en thinking thinking of the the banquets he gives and the the great number number of of guests, guests, freed freed men men and slaves, he has to to feed. feed . Here the tbe fireplace elbow-high, but but vast vast and made made so as to draw off off the place is elbow-high, smoke smoke because, because, in in winter, winter, a a house house filld filled with witb smoke smoke is uninhabitable, uninhabitable, particularly particularly if if green green wood wood or or ne\il new brushbrushwood are are burnt. bumt. The The decoration decoration of of the kitchen kitchen has has a painting painting representing one of those ridiculous sacrifices sacrifices made to to the goddess Fortunax. This is surrounded with witb paintings paintings of of all ail the food necessary for a great great feast: fish ready for cooking; spit; birds, hares hams; hams; venison ready ready for for the the spit; hares and and many others objects. The floor is made made of a composition used in Greece, producing producing a fine black paving, well weil drained so even those walking barefoot barefoot are warrn. warm. as the 'Near subsidiary rooms, 'Near the the kitchen kitchen are are subsidiary rooms, such such as (earthenware pots dolia (earthenware oleariurn is kept in in great do/ia o/earium where wbere oil is horrewn where 123 cm. (four feet) in diameter); diameter): the horreum where aa great such as as winter many many things things are are kept, kept, such winter provisions, provisions, honey, honey, salt meats, and ail all the fruits, the provisions provisions fruits, dried dried raisins, raisins, salt meats, and necessary household. These storerooms are under necessary for for a great great housebold. the surveillance of aa storekeeper called promuscondus, promuscondus, who supplies and delivers delivers them to checks on ail all the foodstuffs and supplies The steward sees to steward sees to the mainthe servants when required. The tbe provisions the the storeamount of of provisions taining of of supplies; supplies; the the amount taining shops.' rooms contain make make them resemble actual shops.' the Romans were were similar in The kitchen utensils used by the used by material and shape to those used by the Greeks. For cooking craticula. They also had a great meat, they used a grill, called craticu/a. ladles, ail pastry moulds, more or all more moulds, sieves, sieves, skimmers, ladIes, many pastry use today. less like those we use and eating the GauJs Gauls -- Strabo Strabo wrote: eating habits of the Cooking and "The Celts eat bread small quantity with aa great deal deal bread in very small 'The grilled. Their meat either boiled, roast or grilled. Their rivers and and the boiled, roastor of meat provide fish, two seas fish, which which they them provide seas which which surround surround them two season with with cumin cumin and and vinegar as as oil oil isis scarce. scarce. They They add add season cumin to to ail all their beverages. cumin 'The ririch drink wine, wine, which which they they bring bring from from Italy Italy and and 'The ch drink Marseilles, and is served follows: aa servan and which is served as as follows: servantt brings Marseilles, in each each hand hand aa bowl bowl of of earthenware earthenware or or sil silver, similar to to aa in ver, sirnilar from the the draws from wine. Eacb Each one one draws filled with with wine. marmite, and and filled marmite, wine and wine time, but they drink often, often, and drunk at at aa time, bowl. Little is drunk almost always always unadulterated.' unadulterated.' isis almost given below dishes. The The recipes recipes given below loved spiced spiced dishes. The Gauls Gauls loved The show their for strong condiments: their taste taste for strong condiments: show Method of and trim of preparing cranes cranes and and ducks. ducks.'Wash trim the the Method 'Wash and (or the put itit in in an earthenware marmite. marmite. crane (or the duck) duck) and and put an earthenware crane put Add water, Let itit reduce reduce by half and water, salt salt and and dill. dill. Let by half and then then put Add the whole whole into into aa cauldron cauldron with with oil and broth, oil and broth, aa bouquet bouquet of of the point of marjoram and When the crane is is on and coriander. coriander. Wben the crane on tbe the point of marjoram cooked, add add aa ]jttle little heated heated wine. wine. Pour Pour over over aa mixture mixture being cooked, being lovage, cumin, rue coriander, roots roots of of honey, honey, lovage, cumin, coriander, of benzoin, benzoin, rue of pounded caraway, with vinegar. vinegar. Put Put sorne some starcb starch in in the the and pounded caraway, with and your crane pan and and make make the liquid boil. boil. Put Put your crane on on aa disb dish and and the liquid pan pour the the sa sauce over iit.' pour uce over t.' 'Make this Stuffing for with the meat of dormice. 'Make the meat of the the this with Stuffing for dormice. powdered pepper, pepper, nuts, dormouse with with powdered nuts, benzoin benzoin and and broth. broth. dormouse put them Put the the dormice dormice on on aa tile tile after after sewing sewing them them up up and and put them Put in the They can can also also be be cooked cooked in in aa copper copper boiler.' the oyen. oven. They boiler.' in Merovingians Cooking and eating habits hsbits of of the the Franks Franks and and Merovingiaœad eating Cooking 'Once established in Gaul, Gaul, the the Franks Franks imitated imitated the the luxurious luxurious established in 'Once example set Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on by the the Romanised Gauls. They ate reclining on set by example couches in in dining-rooms, dining-rooms, around decorated with with around tables tables decorated couches The Franks Franks borrowed borrowed various various dishes dishes from from the the flowers. The flowers. Gauls, and and their their cooking cooking remained remained very very much much the the same same as as Gauls, that of of the the Romanised Romanised Gauls, Gauls, entirely entirely Roman. Roman. Pepper, Pepper, that plants honey, wine, vinegar, meat meat broth wine, vinegar, broth and and aromatic aromatic plants honey, (From l'Art formed the seasonings.' (From I'Art Culinaire, the basis basis of of ail all seasonings.' Culinaire, formed marquis de de Cussy.) marquis Cussy.)

Cooks and and gastronomes gastronomes were were brought brought to to Rome, Rome, and and formed fonned Cooks society, one one of of their their number number calling calling himself himself vicarias vicarius supra supra aa society, Under Hadrian Hadrian an academy, Collegium coquorum coquorum coenas. Under coenas. was formed. formed. Cooks Cooks were were highly highly paid. paid. The The triumvir triumvir Antony Antony was gave gave a house house to Cleopatra's Cleopatra's cook as a reward reward for an adadmirable meal. meal. mirable In large large Roman Roman households, households, the the kitchen kitchen slaves each had In was the the coquus, coquus, who who resembled resembled the tasks. There was specific tasks. gros fi.res gros bonnet ('big noise'), noise'), the focarizs, focarius, who who kept kept the the fires going, going, the the coctor, coctor, who who superintended certain certain dishes, dishes, the the pistor pinsitor, who who was was kitchen kitchen help, help, preparing the pistor or pinsitor, various foods (the Romans had a taste stuffings, pounding various purées), and and grinding grinding corn for bread bread and cakes. for pur6es),

Underground Underground Roman kitchen (rrom Antiquités civiles (from de Vogüé, Vogii6, Antiquitds de Syrie) Syrie) religieuses de civiles et religieuses

Many attached to the kitchen and dining-room. Many slaves were were attached The con dus managed the household, and ordered and stored stored condus the cellar, the the structor managed the the cellar, the food. food. The The doliarius doliariu.s managed arranged captor carved the captor food on on the serving platters, the arranged the food the meat, meat, the the proegustator, aa reliable man, tasted the dishes, and the aquarius was responsible responsible for the supply of water. (dining-room) was who In iarch a, who tricliniarcha, was the the triclin In the triclinirnn (dining-room) the triclinium pocillator, was the pocillator, household today, the was like the butler in aa large household who poured wine, high-ranking nomenclator, aa high-ranking and the who poured wine, and the nomenclator, protocol. servant, responsible for protocol. servant, responsible For aa long time in ancient Rome, the Republic, Republic, Rome, and and under under the pulmentus, made gruel, puis puls or made with the or pu/mentus, food was was aa gruel, chief food the chief pounded barley or (German wheat). was roasted, roasted, pounded This was wheat). This or spelt spelt (Gennan porridge like and like the polenta to make make aa porridge with water, to and cooked cooked with still cauldron. This was was made made in in aa bronze bronze cauldron. Italy. This still eaten eaten in in Italy. potages and Our terms potdes, potages and pot-au-feu for liquids liquids like potées, terms for (to drink). potare (to derive potus from drink). word potus from potare derive from from the the Roman word Under gluttony and and extravagant extravagant decadence, gluttony Under the Empire, decadence, the Empire, luxury cooking. of Roman Roman cooking. characteristic of luxury became the characteristic became the Carême, was declared that that itit was the Roman Roman cuisine, cuisine, declared Car6me, who who studied studied the heavy Romans carried carried their their refinement. The The Romans heavy and and without without refinement. taste measures had had restrictive measures extremes that that restrictive taste for for meat meat to to such such extremes to which Pliny Pliny tells tells us us ate elephant, elephant, of of which They even even ate to be be taken. taken. They only roealso of of three three roeHe writes writes also favour.. He only the the trunk trunk found found favour buck, Herds of of these these animais animals as aa first first course. course. Herds the table table as set on buck, set on the were set parks in Tarquinia. in the neighbourhood of of Tarquinia. in parks the neighbourbood set up up in The animals, to wild wild animais, The Romans Romans did confine themselves themselves to not confine did not eating puppies: dormice with chestnuts, chestnuts, eating puppies: fattened with dormice especially especially fattened acorns pigs kept guinea pigs called the the kept in in aa cage cage called acorns and nuts; and and guinea and nuts; gliriarium. gliriarium. Mazois, kitchen in in described tbe the kitchen Palais de de Scaurus, Scaurus, described Mazois, in in the the Palais the great Roman: house of Roman: the house of aa great 'Scaurus' 'Scaurus' kitchen its dimensions are enormous, enormous. kitchen isis arched, arched. its dimensions are

267 267

COOKING COOKING end of At the period the the end of the the Merovingian Merovingian period the convents, convents, which which At preserved ail had preserved gourmands, increased all the the traditions traditions of of the the gourmands, increased had in number progress was great progress number in in France, France, and and great was made made in in cookcookin ing. ing. French cooking in the Middle Ages cooking in the Middle Ages -- Viollet-le-Duc gives aa Viollet-le-Duc gives French picture of of what what kitchens kitchens were were like like at at the the time: time: picture 'In the the houses houses of of the the Middle Middle Ages, Ages, chimneys chimneys were were large large and and 'In get inside high; aa man man could could get inside the the chimney chimney without without bending, bending, high; and ten people could ten or or twelve twelve people could sit sit easily easily round round the the hearth. hearth. and Inside these chimneys strong strong and these chimneys andirons, called landiers, landiers, were were Inside irons, called needed to to hold hold the put on the enormous enormous logs logs that that were were put the tire, fire, on the needed prevent them and to from rolling rolling into to prevent them from into the the room. There There were were and andirons for for the the kitchen kitchen and and for for other other rooms; rooms; the the former former andirons were complicated complicated in in form form because put to because they they were were put various to various were uses. Their Their uprights uprights were were furnished furnished with with supports supports or hooks or hooks uses. to take take the the spits; spits; they they were were surmounted surmounted by by an an extension extension in in to the form form of of aa small small brazier prebrazier on on which which dishes dishes could could be be prethe pared or or kept kept warm. warm. pared 'The division division of of stoves into sever compartments as in our stoves into several our 'The al compartments day, was was seldom seldom seen. The dishes were seen. The were cooked cooked on on the the tire fire day, itself, and and these these fierce fierce fires did not not allow fires did allow for for dishes dishes which itself, needed constant constant stirring, stirring, or or to to be made in in frying frying pans. needed 'The andiron-braziers, andiron-braziers, tilled filled with with charcoal, charcoal, were were at at aa 'The convenient height height and at aa distance distance from from the fire. fire. Sometimes Sometimes convenient they were were divided divided into into two two compartments, compartments, in in which which case case it it they possible to was possible prepare and to prepare and cook cook four four dishes dishes outside outside the was pots, suspended from hearth. Over the hearth hearth hung hung pots, from hooks or hearth. tripods; in in front front of of the the tire fire one one or or two two spits spits turned several tripods; pieces of meat. Only in in this this way way could could aa large large me meal pie ces of meat. Only al be prepared. prepared. 'Before the twelfth century, the twelfth century, only only roast meats and and boiled 'Before vegetables were were eaten, eaten, and and the the art art of making stews of making stews was vegetables almost unknown. unknown. What What was good c1ear was needed were good clear tires, fires, almost needed were large hearths which many on which many long long spits spits could could be be set, set, and large hearths on hanging vast cauldrons. space for for hanging The architects architects of put ovens in of the twelfth twelfth century began to put 'The kitchens, arrange food before serving kitchens, and tables on which to arrange before serving it. From Frorn the fourteenth fourteenth century onwards, sauces were much it. appreciated. Ovens were needed to Ovens were to make the many dishes which at the the big feasts of the time. which were were served at feasts of time. The equipment ment of of the the kitchens kitchens began to to improve. improve. 'In the castles and and convents convents of of the Ages, the 'In the casties the Middle Middle Ages, chimney was chimney was not not always built built against the wall in in the room kept cooking, but kept for for cooking, but was sometimes sometimes built built in in the middle of of

vaulted roof, roof, and and the the vaulted centre of hearth set set in in the room. the hearth the centre of the the room. the A kitchen kitchen like like this resembled aa tower, this resembled tower, open open at at the the top, top, A joists to without joists to separate intervening space separate the the intervening into floors, space into floors, without and with with the the diameter diameter decreasing decreasing towards towards the the top. top. Such and Such aa kitchen can can still still be be seen seen in Popes at at A in the the Palace Palace of Avignon.' of the the Popes kitchen vignon.' French cooking cookirE in in the the fourteenth fourteenth and and fifteenth fifteenth centuries centuries -French Information on on cooking cooking at at this this time time isis found found in tn lele Viandier Viandier Information Taillevent. by Taillevent. by gruel, made were aa gruel, made with Soups were with milk, milk, often often flavoured flavoured with Soups with honey, saffron saffron and and sweet sweet wine wine and and thickened thickened with with moyeux moyeux honey, (egg yolks) yolks) and and butter. Rice soups butter. Rice soups were were made made and and various (egg various garbures (q.v.). (q.v.). They pur6es like like garbures (sops). They were were called called soupes soupes (sops). purées Brouet was made of was made of ca calves' meat, with with fowl fowl or Brouet Ives' meat, or conies conies (rabbits) cut pieces, browned (lard) with cut into into pieces, browned in in sein sein de de lard lard (lard) (rabbits) with and crushed onions and crushed almonds, almonds, and and moistened moistened with with wine wine and and onions (hotchpotch) was stock. The The hochepot hochepor (hotchpotch) was similar similar to to brouet, brouet,but stock. but grilled bread grated breadcrumbs were bread or or grated were added added as as thickenthickengrilled (which did ing. Galimafrée Galimafrie (which did not not have have its modern modern connotations connotations ing. with bad stew, mauvais ragoût), ragoitt), was bad stew, was made made with with mutton mutton or with or cooked, chopped, chopped, simmered simmered with onion onion and and moistened fowl, cooked, with cameline cameline sauce. sauce. with gives recipes Taillevent gives recipes for for seventeen seventeen sauces, sauces, including including Taillevent sauce Robert, Roberl, so so wholesome wholesome and and necessary, necessary, according according to sauce to for duck, pork, eggs, duck, rabbits, roasts, fresh pork, eggs, salt Rabelais, for salt cod cod Sauces were thickened with bread. and other meats. Sauces

Italian kitchen kitchen of of the the sixteenth siXleenth century. century. After After Christiano Christiano di Messiburgo, Messiburgo, Ferrara, Ferrara, 1549 View View ofthe of the kitchen kitchen ofFontevrault of Fontevrault Abbey Abbey

French French cooking cooking in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century century -- Under U nder Frangois François I, 1, the days days of of feasting and drinking, drinking, as recounted by Rabelais, Rabelais, were were revived. revivcd. The The first tirst real real cookery books books date from from this time. In 1543,la 1543, la Fleur Fleur de toute toute cuisine, by by Pierre Pierre Pidoux. Pidoux, and and in 1570, 1570, the Viandier de Taboureau, appeared. appeared. Cooking flourished flourished in this reign. reign. The refinements retinements of the Italian ltalian Renaissance Renaissance had had penetrated penetrated into into France, France, and French banquets banquets became became more more splendid than ever. ever. Menus included included fish, tish, fowl, feathered game and venison, venison, but meat meat and and vegetables vegetables featured featured little. little. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils were were now now augmented augmented by by vast vast copper daubiers daubiers (q.v.). (q.v.). 268

COOKING COOKING and great interest in food, food, and interest in took aa great All Ali the grands grands seigneurs took gave their masters' their masters' interest, gave grateful for for this this interest, master cooks, grateful immistaken imgave rise the mistaken rise to to the This gave dishes. This names to new names to new dishes. they names they whose names by those those whose created by pression pression that dishes were created de Béchamel. B6chamel. marquis de withBCchamel,calledafter bore, as with Béchamel, called after the marquis preceding in the the preceding those in than those manners were were simpler than Table manners for aa true true heavily for too heavily XIV ate ate too Louis XIV Although Louis century. Although century. dishes served served having dishes of having habit of the habit gourmet, he he established established the gourmet, together, was thrown thrown together, his time everything was separately. Before his separately. in his his Boileau in by Boileau pyramid described described by miking aa monstrous pyramid making Festin ridicule: poulets étiques, itiques, de six six poulets liivre flanqué Sur un un lièvre Sur flanque de dome stique s, animaux domestiques, lapins, animaux tr o is lapins, S' i le vaient trois S'élevaient Paris, dans Paris, Clevis dans enfance élevés tendre enfance dis leur leur tendre Qui, Qui, dès nounis. dont ils chou dont ils furent le chou encor le Sentaient encor Sentaient furent nourris. entassCes, viandcs entassées, de viandes cet amas amas de de cet Autour de pressies, d'alouettes pressées, cordon d'alouettes m long long cordon Rignait un Régnait pigeons étalés Ctalds plat, six six pigeons &t plat, les bords bords du Et sur les brttlis. squelettes brûlés. renforts leurs leurs squelettes Prisentaient pour renforts Présentaient

In ln the the following following reigns reigns expense expense had had to to be be cut down owing owing

to to imperial imperial and and religious religious wars. wars. Prosperity Prosperity returned returned under Henry Henry II, II, and cooking made made rapid rapid progress. progress. Feasts Feasts were magnificent. A A meal meal served to Henry II II himself himself included a magnificent. profusion profusion of lampreys lampreys in Hippocras Hippocras santce, sauce, hot-pots, hot-pots, ducklings d à la la Malvoisie, Malvoisie, slices slices of muraena muraena (an (an eel-like eel-like fish) lings sauce of of egg egg yolks and herbs, ducks ducks dà la didone, served with with a sauce served sturgeon fillets fillets dà la la lombarde, lombarde, quarters of of roebuck, partridges sturgeon tonelette, and and a whole series series of of puddings such as darioles dà la tonelette, and ichaudes. échaudes. cooks and end of the the sixteenth century, century, Italian Italian cooks At the end of Catherine pastrycooks came to France France under under the influence influence of pastrycooks maitres queux and Marie de Medici. At this time the Italian maîtres

(head chefs) world. They in the the world. chefs) were considered the the best best in remained in the taught the French many recipes which have remained taught aware of French culinary repertoire. repertoire. Cooks Cooks were already aware were already French rôle and social importance. importance. their r6le cooking in the seventeenth century -- The The reign reign of French cookirg King which the King 'hen'which famous 'hen' Henry IV is symbolised by the famous wished all ail his subjects to be able to put in the pot on Sundays. wished had little significance the reign significance during the Although cooking cooking had of Louis Louis XIII, XIII, it founded on on the impetus founded received an an impetus it received of Français by by La in 1651, which appeared in Varenne, which La Varenne, Cuisinier Frangais the first book to fix the rules and principles of working, and working, and In 1691 1691 the the Cuisinier Cuisinier in cooking. cooking. ln order in to establish establish some some order et Bourgeois Bourgeois by Massialot, giving precise instructions, instructions, Royal et appeared. more varied, varied, was growing more appeared. It It showed that cooking was and people or royal or royal famous people after famous named after and dishes dishes were were named favourites. Menus o//a Spanish o//a olh -- the the Spanish mention the the o//a Menus mention favourites. removes and and podrida -- multiple hors-d'œuvre, monumental removes hors-teuvre, monumental entremets way. in aa logical way. arranged in entremets (q.v.). Courses were arranged During rather was spectacular spectacular rather Siicle cooking cooking was During the the Grand Siècle than fine or delicate. than fine or delicate. ln of the the utensils of XIV the culinary utensils Louis XIV the culinary In the the reign reign of of Louis Middle (see caisine (see de cuisine Batterie de replaced by by aa Batterie Middle Ages Ages were were replaced KITCHEN pots many new new pots included many KITCHEN EQUIPMENT) EQUIPMENT) which included and silver utensils utensils Later, silver iron. Later, and wrought wrought iron. and pans in in tinplate tinplate and were used. used. The in his his château ch0teau Fouquet in festivities of of Superintendent Superintendent Fouquet The festivities de were at Chantilly, Chantilly, were Prince of of Condé Cond6 at and of of the the Prince de Vaux, Vaux" and particularly particularly sumptuous. was maître maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel Vatel was The famous famous Vatel sumptuous. The of position. very important important position. the Grande Grande Condé, Cond6, aa very of the

pullets emaciated pullets six emaciated by six surrounded by hare surrounded top of of aa hare On On top animals, domestic animais, rabbits, domestic Lay three three rabbits, Lay in Paris, Paris, infancy in tender infancy their tender raised since since their Who, raised Who, fed. had been been fed. which they they had on which cabbage on the cabbage still of of the Smelt Smelt still piled up meats up meats of piled mass of Round this this mass Round pressed larks, larks, of pressed long border border of Reigned Reigned aa long pigeons spread out spread out dish, six six pigeons the dish, edges of of the And the edges And on on the reinforcement. as aa reinforcement. skeletons as their burnt burnt skeletons Exposed Exposed their were quantity of dishes were gteat quantity of dishes century aagreat ln In the the seventeenth seventeenth century the of the many descriptions descriptions of are many and there there are meal, and served at each each meal, served at XIV. Louis XIV. of Louis table of royal table meals at the the royal meals served served at and King eat, eat,and the King seen the have seen wrote; '1'I have The cess wrote; Princess The Palatine Palatine Prin entire an entire soups' an plates of different soups, of different that four plates often, four that very very often, cut mutton cut plateful of of salad, salad, mutton large plateful partridge, aa large pheasant, pheasant, aa partridge, plateful piecesof harn, aaplateful good pieces of ham, garlic, two up two good with garlic, its juice with up in in itsjuice jams.' of and jams.' and fruit fruit and of cakes, cakes, and eaten 'All his life he hehad hadeaten his life And Saint-Simon, 'Ali to Saint-Simon, And according according to part as as past only thesoft soft part only the time past for some some time very and for little bread, very little bread, and and fine hashes hashes and quantities, fine large quantities, he in very very large no teeth. Soup in he had had no teeth. Soup atewas wasvery very heate Everything he eggs as aa supplement. supplement. Everything were used used as eggs were thecase, case, asisisordinarily ordinarily the asspiced highly spiced as least twice at least twice as highly spiced, spiced, at the that the Louis XIV XIV that to Louis due to and was due indeed.' ItIt was and very very strong strong indeed.' days, for tête fEte days, reserved for custom formerly reserved sweets, formerly serving sweets, custom of of serving was daily use. use. into daily was introduced introduced into great houses and houses and the great Menus copious inin the equally copious Menus were were equally chefs, masterchefs, andthe themaster among time, and ofthe the time, rich bourgeois among the the rich bourgeois of great deal deal meals had preparedthese hadaagreat or thesemeals who prepared or cordons cordans bleus, bleus, who to do. to do. judgedthe the Historyhas hasjudged French Regency - - History theRegency underthe French cooking cooking under years under under eight But, ifif the theyears years of Regency severely. severely. But, eight years of Regency politically and andeconomieconomiPhillipe were disastrous disastrous politically Phillipe d'Orléans d'Orl6ans were gastroregardsgastrocally, distinction asasregards leastsome some distinction hadatat least cally, they they had nomy. fromthis thistime. time' datesfrom Frenchcuisine cuisine dates Thetrue true French nomy. The great houses houses inin While ofthe thegreat lasted, the theovens ovensof Regency lasted, While the the Regency giftedcooks who the cookswho andthe thegifted evercold, cold,and hardly ever kingdom were werehardly thekingdom and directed Trianon and Royal,the theTrianon PalaisRoyal, of the thePalais kitchens of directed the the kitchens the cely houses refined table table therefined satisfythe princely hadtotosatisfy houseshad the other other prin companions guestsof Regent. theRegent. ofthe theguest<; who were werethe companions who pastry.InInlalavie vie The thepastry. hand-with the himself took tookaahand.with The Regent Regent himself privée 'Forthe littlesuppers suppers the!ittle privie d'autrefois, wrote: 'For Franklinwrote: d'autrefois,Franklin given prepared ininspecial special wereprepared thedishes disheswere given by Regent, the theRegent, by the rooms weremade madeofof allthe theutensils utensils were whereaU floor,where thesame roomson samefloor, ontl)e silver; cooks.' withthe thecooks.' workedwith oftenworked silver;the theroués roudsoften The pictureofofthe givesaapicture the suppers gives thesesuppers Themenu menuof ofone oneof ofthese brilliant prinkeytotothe theprinThismeal mealisisa akey time.This brilliantcuisine cuisineof ofthe thetime. cipal fashion: dishesininfashion: cipal dishes First and garnished with carrotsand withcarrots beef,garnished saltbeef, Firstcourse. course.Joint Jointofofsalt potatoes. potatoes.

Seventeenth (Marielle) c,o ok (M ar ie t te) Seventeenth century cenbtrycook

269 269

COOKING Two Two soups. soups. One One made made of of a pike pike cullis, cullis, one of of turnips with a duck thereon. lhereon. Two Two fish fish dishes. dishes. Carp d I'anglaise; freshwater fish fish consisting ing of of twenty-four twenty-four little perch and four little liWe pikes. Tm Ten entrdes. entrées. Mutton M uttan fillets flllets larded larded and glazed glazed with gherkins gherkins on top; top; two two chickens stuck with parsley, parsley, espagnole l'Sf,IUXnOIC sauce; sauce; pike pike dà Ia la polonnise; pololUlise; perch perch dà la la geneviise genevoise (six (six peicli and one white wine); 0ne bottle bOUle of ofwhite wine); sauerkraut sauerkraut with one pike; twentyfive five oysters oysters cooked with with a pint pÎnt of of cream; noix noix de veau veau d à la napolitaine; napolitaine: three three partridges partridges en en levrault levraull (leveret); (leveret); two fine fine eels la bavaroise; bavaroise; and and half half aa hundred hundred fine fi ne crayfish; crayflsh; roebuck roe buck eels ità Ia kidneys kidneys in in marinade. marinade. Two Two dishes dishes of of pdtisseries. pâlisseries. A A cake cake filled filled with with apricot marmelade; marmelade; an an iced Iced tart tari (six (six peaches peaches iced iced and and aa pint pint of of cream). cream). Four Four roasts. roas/s. Fried Fried smelts smelts (crumbed), (crumbed), two two poulardes, poulardes, two fried fried soles, soles. two two wild wild ducks. ducks. Four Four dffirent salads, sa/ads, with with sauces. sauces. Four Four little hot hOl entremets. entremets. Six veal veal sweetbreads sweetbreads larded larded and and glazed; pig's pig's trotters troUeTS Sainte-Menehould; Sainte-Menehould; dried dried peas peas d à /c la crime; crème; dessert dessert apples apples dà la la chinoise. chinoise. Until Untîl the the beginning beginning of of the the eighteenth century, cent ury, cooking cooking was was done done on the the fire fire and and on on charcoal braziers. braziers. Kitchens Kitchens were were provided provided with with aa stove stove called called aa potager potager which which had had twelve twelve or twenty twenly grates grates (foyers), (foyers), according according to to the the size size of of the lhe househousehold. hold. This This arrangement arrangement lasted lasted until until the the cast-iron stove stave heated heated with with coal coal came came into into use. use. French French cooking cooking under under Louis Louis XV XV -- Cooking Cooking in in the the reign reign of Louis Louis XV XV was was much much the the same same as as under under the the Regency. Regency. The The nobility nobility were were very very interested interested in in the the culinary art. art. They They were were 'gastronomic snobs', snobs', and and wished wished to to have have dishes named named after after them, whether whether invented invented in in their their own own house house or or not. not. It11 isis to to this this period period that tl1at we we owe owe Bouchies Bouchées dà la la Reine, Reine, named named in in honour honour of Marie Marie Leczinska, Leczinska, wife wife of of Louis Louis XV; XV; Cailles Cailles dà la la Mirepoix Mirepoix (quails) (quails) and Timbale Timbale Pompadour. Pompadour. The The menus menus served served at at the the court court of of Louis Louis XV XV by by H6liot, Héliot, Ccuyer écuyer de di! bouche bouche of of Madame Madame Dauphine Dauphine de de France, France, were were grandiose. grandiose. Car6me Carême published publîshed part of of these these menus, menus, taken taken from hbtel frangais. from the the original source, source, in in his Maitre Maitre dd'hôlel Phil6as Philéas Gilbert notes notes that that the the menus menus were were presented in in the the form fûrm of of placards placards 'whose 'whose dimensions dimensions are are those those of of electoral electoral notices not ices and and in in which which figure:4 figure: 4 ollas ollas and and S8 lesser lesser soups; soups; 12 12 fish fish entrCes; entrées; 32 32 entries entrées and 44lesser 44 lesser entries; entrées; 12 12 removes; rem oves ; 44 hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre before before the the King; 22 grand entremets;32 enlremefS; 32 roasts; roasts; 221esser lesser roasts roasts at at the the ends ends of the table; 2little 21ittle dishes dishes before before the the King; King; 40 40 cold cold entremets entremets and and 48 48 hot hot entremets.' entremets.' Many Many master cooks were mastercooks were needed needed to to execute execute such such aa menu. menu. In In the the time time of of Louis Louis XV XV aa number number of of culinary culinary books books appeared. The The most most interesting were were Ie le Cuisinier Cuisinier moderne moderne by by Vincent de de la la Chapelle, Cba pelle, published in in English English in in 1733, 1733, and and translated translated into into French French in 1735, 1735, and and the the Dons Dons de de Comus, Comus, which which appeared appeared without without the the author's author's name name but but was was written written by hOtel of by Marin, Marin, mattre maître dd'hôlel of the the mar6chal maréchal de de Soubise. Soubise. This This was was preceded preceded by by aa Discours Discours prCliminaire, préliminaire, remarkable remarkable both both for for its its style style and and documentation, documentation, and and attributed attributed to to the the Jesuit Jesuit fathers, fathers, Pierre Pierre Brunoy Brunoy and and Hyacinthe Bourgeant. Bourgeant. CarCme Carême thought thought the the work work of of de de la la Chapelle the the best best of of the the books books which which appeared in in the the seventeenth and and eighteenth eighteenth centuries, centuries, although he criticised criticised the the author aUlhor for for having having given given certain certain dishes names, disbes inadmissible m2ldrOlSSl names, such such as as Filet Filel de de boeuf boeufen en talon talon de de botte, bOlle, rnd and Potage POlage dà lala jambe jambe de de bois, bois, which wbich he he found found grogrotesque. tesque. Among Amongthe the bourgeois bourgeois at at this this time, time, meals meals were were also also simpler. simpler. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin describes describes aa typical typical meal meal served served in in the the middle middle classes. classes. ln In 1740 1740 aa dinner dÎnner for for ten len people would would consist consist of: of: First FirSl course. course. Le Le bouilli bouilli (boiled meat); meal); an an entrde en/rée of of veal \leal cooked cooked in in its its juice; juice; an an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Second Second course. course. A A turkey; turkey; aa dish dish of of vegetables; vegetables, aa salad; salad, aa cream. cream.

Third Third course. Cheese; Cheese; fruit; fruit; aa pot ofjam. of jam. The plates plates were only changed three three times times -- after the the soup, for the second course, course, and for dessert. Coffee Coffee was seldom seldam served, but but quite quite often orten a ratafia ratafia of of cherries or carnations, carnations, a recent recenl introducintroduction, tion, was served. French French cooking cookillg at a' the the time tîme of of Louis Louis XVI XV] -- During the first years of the the reign reign of Louis Louis XVI, the the tendency continued to to years of refine retine culinary methods methods and to to establish establish more more order and logic, logic, as as well weil as greater greater elegane elegance in in menus menus for grand grand galas. galas. Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin writes writes in in his fft'sloire Hisfoire de de la cuisine cuisine of great improvements improvements in in all ail branches branches of catering. 'Cooks, 'Cooks, .caterers, pdtissiers, pâlissiers, confectioners, grocers, have have

multiplied multiplied on on an an ever ever increasing increasing scale. scale, .. .. .. Physics and and

chemistry chemistry have have been been called called to to the the aid of of cooking. cooking. The The most most distinguished distinguished intellects intellects have have not not thought thought itil an an unworthy unworthy task task to to occupy themselves themselves with our basic basic needs, needs, and and have have introintroduced duced improvements ranging rangîng from from the the workman's workman's simple pot-au-feu pOI-mJ-jeu to to the the transparent transparent extracts extracls (Brillat-Savarin (Brillat-Savarin means means here here the the aspic aspicjellies) jellies) which which are are served served in in gold and and crystal. . . . 'The 'The French French cuisine cuisille has has appropriated foreign dishes, such as as caviare caviare and and beefsteak; beefsteak; seasoning such such as as curry curry and and soya; soya; drinks drinks like Iike punch punch and and others. others. .. .. .. Coffee has has become become popular, popular, in in the the morning morning as as nourishment, nourishment. and and after after dinner dinner as as an an exhilarating exhilarating and and tonic tonie drink. drink. 'Finally, 'Finally, the the word word gastronomy gastronomy has has been been revived revived from from the the Greek.' Greek.' During During the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XVI XVI the the first nrSI restaurant restaurant came came into into being being (see (see RESTAURANT). REST A URANT). Menus Menus of of restaurateurs resta urateurs of of the the time time provide information information on on looking in in general. general. These These included included 12 soups, soups, 24 24 hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, 15 15 or or 20 entdes en/rées ofbeef, of beef, 20 20 entries entrées of of mutton, mutton, 30 30 entrdes entrées of of fowl fowl or or game, 12 12 or 20 20 entries entrées of of veal, veal, 12 12 dishes dishes of of pdtisserie, pâtisserie, 24 24 dishes of of fish, fish, 15 15 roasts, roasts, 50 50 entremets, entremets, 50 50 desserts. desserts. French French cooking during the tbe period of of the the Revolution Revolutioll and and the the Empire Empire -- The The author of Avant de quitter quiller la la table table desqibed described the the French French cuisine cuisine at at the the time time of of the Ihe Revolution: Revolution: '. . .. the the poor chefs chefs were were forgotten; forgotlen; aa new new austerity austerity preprevailed and the supreme supreme bon hon ton Ion was was to 10 assume assume aa spartan spartan vailed and simplicity. sîmplicity. 'But 'But the the pleasures pleasures of of the the table table never never lose lose their their rights, rights, and and the the new new masters mastcrs of of France France soon soon tired tired of of so 50 much much virtue, virtue, and and onoe once again aga in in in Paris Paris and and in in the the provinces, provinces, there there was was aa return retum to to good good living. living. The The chefs chefs of of the the great great houses houses of of the the nobility, nobility, finding finding themselves themselves unemployed unemployed on on the the emigration emigralion of of their their masters, masters, put put themselves themselves at al the the service service of of those those who who governed governed them, them, and and soon soon the the ovens ovens were were heated heated once once again throughthroughout out the the country, country, and and particularly in in Paris, Paris, in in the Palais Palais exexRoyal, Royal, rue rue Montorgueil, and and the the boulevard boulevard du du Temple. Temple. 'Men 'Men of of talent, laient, such such as as Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin and and Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reyniere, began began to to assemble assemble their lbeir observations, observations, and and to lo experiment PYr.,.,r,m'~f\1 in in order orderto to write. write.ln 1798, at at the the age age of of 16, 16. Car6me, Carême, In 1798, the man man who who was was going going to to write write the the new'culinary new 'culinary charter', charter', after after 66 years yeaTS in in aa modest modest cabaret cabaret on on the the outskirts outskirts of of Paris, Paris, started started as as aa pastry-cook with wÎth Bailly. Bailly. The The maison maison Bailly Bailly was was one of the leading Pans pdtisseries pâlisseries and and supplied the the prince prince de de Talleyrand, who who kept aa sumptuous sumptuous table. Two Two years yeaTS later later Car6me was was first n.rst pastry-maker pastry-maker in in this Ihis famous famous house'. house'. In In the the relatively relatively calmer calmer period perÎod of of the the Directory, Directory, the the great great bourgeois bourgeois households households reorganised reorganÎsed themselves, themselves, new new resrestaurants taurants opened, and and cooking cooking again again became became as as grandiose grandiose as as in the time time of Louis Louis XV. XV. in the Under Uoder the the Directory, Directory, an an attempt attempt was was made made to to revive revive official dinners and and suppers. suppers. Ostentation Ostentation was was re-established, re-established, official dinners and and magnificent magnificent buffets buffets with wilh enormous, enormous, over-decorated over-decorated cold cold piices were were prepared prepared for for balls. balls. Even Even ifif the the emphasis emphasis was was on on luxury rather rather than than on on aa well-chosen well-chosen ensemble ensemble in in these these great great festivities, lestlvlltles. both both in in Paris Paris and and in in the the provinceso provinces, more more rational ratÎonal menus menus were were introduced. introduced. 270 270

COOKING COOKING

century early nineteenth nineteenth century in the the early A kitchen in

(yard), for entries, of the the entrées, for the the cooking cooking of metre (yard), cubic charcoal, aa cu charcoal, bic metre soups, ofthe for the the cooking cooking of the ovens ovens for mass on on the and another another mass and the soups, and the the bain-marie. bain-marie' frying and the frying ragottts, the the sauces, sauces, the the ragoûts, the which in front front of of wruch wood in 'Add to of burning burning wood heap of to that that aa heap 'Add weighing sirloin weighing of which which bears bears aa sirJoin one of are turning, turning, one four spits spits are four piece of veal weighing weighing (a5 to of veal lb.), another another aa piece 20 to 27 kg. kg. (45 to 60 60 lb.), to 27 20 game. and game. fowl and (35 t045 for fowl two for other two l6 to 20 kg. to 45 lb.), lb.), the the other to 20 kg. (35 16 speed; tremendous speed; 'In this moves with with tremendous furnace everyone everyone moves this furnace 'In make right to to make has the the right chef has the chef only the not aa sound heard; only sound isis heard; not obeys' voice everyone everyone obeys. his voice sound of of his and at at the the sound himself heard, heard, and himself an about half half an for about sufferings, for our sufferings, lid on on our put the the lid Finally, to to put Finally, the air air does does that the are closed closed so so that windows are doors and and windows hour the the doors hour And in in this this dished up. up. And are being being dished as they they are dishes as not cool cool the the dishes not lives. of our our lives. pass the days of the best best days way we we pass way though even though We must must obey obey even 'But honour commands. We honour commands. 'But which charcoal which the buming burning charcoal But itit isis the physical strength fails. But strength fails. physical kills us!' us !' kills Physiologie Brillat-Savarin's laIa Physiologie Restoration, Brillat-Savarin's the Restoration, During During the gastrothat gastroimportance that the importance gottt appeared, and shows shows the du appeared, and du goût the restaurantsof ofthe In the the restaurants time. In at that that time. had at nomy and cooking cooking had nomy and of effortsof Thanks to to the the efforts flourished. Thanks Palais Royal trade trade f1ourished. Palais Royal their tastes of of their the tastes tosatisfy satisfy the cooks to and master master cooks restaurateurs restaurateurs and made in incookery. cookery' great progress progress was wasmade clientele, clientele, great in wasin cooking was theart artof ofcooking Louis-Philippe the Under reign of of Louis-Philippe the reign Under the lived King lived economical King about the the economical lower favour. Everyone Everyone about lower favour. Tuileries theTuileries Dinners atatthe with close to to stinginess. stinginess. Dinners with aasimplicity simplicity close presentation. their presentation. were were bourgeois bourgeois inin their on withan aneye eyeon bourgeois, alalways Louis-Philippe ways with lived asasaabourgeois, Louis-Philippe lived thesupplying supplying of of caterers the to the thecaterers economy. assigned to He even even assigned economy. He The cost costof these of these pricestoto the thechâteau. chdteau. The dinners fixed prices dinners atat fixed the per head, according totothe head, according francs per dinners to10l0francs was to to be be55to dinners was guests. importance theguests. importance of ofthe hardly make make couldhardly artof cooking could UUnder nder such ofcooking r6gime the theart suchaarégime 'bourgeois' ofthe the'bourgeois' thereign reignof progress. was ininthe progress. However, However,itit was gastronomic coteries coteries andgastronomic King famousclubs clubsand most famous the most King that that the restaurants metinin the thebest bestrestaurants were Thesesocieties societiesmet founded.These were founded. gastronomes desgastronomes Acadimie des and ofthe the Académie forerunners of and were werethe the forerunners

in arms and and in 'The passed in of arms in the clash of the clash 'The first first Empire Empire passed and immense triumphal fEtes and marked by splendid splendid fêtes trumpetings marked triumphal trumpetings banquets.' (Varras.) sinecure' The position of chef in the Imperial was no sinecure. Imperial Court was The chefs ventilation in in the the bad ventilation chefs came and went. Was it due to bad kitchens, in the the established in economy established the severe severe economy kitchens, or or to to the household, which reduced wages 2,400 francs? francs? wages to to2,4N Among those who exercised Imperial Court, Court, art at at the Imperial exercised their art galas which which great galas and of the the great extravagance of and contributed contributed to the extravagance took most who was was the the most man who place, was the man was Chandelier, Chandelier, the took place, Helena, devoted St Helena, him to to St followed him servants, followed Napoleon's's servants, devoted of of Napoleon and to the the applied himself to difficulties applied and in in spite of countless countless difficulties spite of task fallen Emperor. Emperor. of the the fallen the appetite appetite of task of of encouraging encouraging the great mas It ter master the great himself, the that Carême Car€me rumself, It was was at at this this period that of rial for on French French for his his works works on material his mate art, collected collected his culinary art, of culinary cuisine his While continuing continuing his century. While nineteenth century. cuisine in in the the nineteenth innovations knowperfected his pafisserie, he his culinary culinary knowhe perfected in pâtisserie, innovations in given ledge. great dinners dinners given at the the great Tuileries, at at the the Tuileries, ledge. He was was seen seen at by new where the the new Hotel de de Ville Ville where fOtes of of the the Hotel the fêtes Talleyrand, at at the by Talleyrand, marshals amand amministers and nobility, ministers the new new nobility, France, the marshals of of France, great bassadors came, with the the great and at at the the Elysée-Napoléon Elys6e-Napol6on with came, and Laguipière. Laguipidre. As come to to who had had come place of pdtissier he of those those who the place As aa pâtisSier he took took the the the chef of of the Tiroloy, one-bme one-time chef the end end of their careers: careers: Tiroloy, of their Soubise Lecoq, of Condé, Cond6, Lecoq, house of Feuillet of of the the house household, Feuillet Soubise household, who Louis XVI. XVI. for Louis royal household household for in the the royal had worked worked in who had Carême with promoted under famous chefs chefs with the famous under the rapidly promoted was rapidly Car6me was whom gratitude in in rus his works. works. his gratitude and expresses expresses his whom he he studied, studied, and French century -nineteenth century the nineteenth the beginning beginning of of the at the French cooking cooking at Even period had very had very of this this period kitchens of equipped kitchens Even the the best best equipped mediocre rudimentary. were rudimentary. and cooking stoves were cooking stoves mediocre implements, implements, and Carême at the the hour hour of of picture of kitchens at of these these kitchens left us has left us aa picture Car6me has work. work. 'Imagine the of the as that that of kitchen such such as yourself in in aa large large kitchen 'Imagine yourself Foreign great dinner. Twenty dinner.Twenty moment of of aa great the moment Foreign Ministry Ministry atat the chefs going, moving moving with with coming, going, occupations, coming, are at at their their occupations, chefs are speed live great mass oflive massof Look atatthe thegreat heat. Look of heat. in this this cauldron cauldron of speed in

271 271

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Diagrammatic installation installation of kitchen (after the Consrrucreurs of a kitchen Constructeurs associés associds de de Paris) Paris) Diagrammatic

A. Storage room: 1. Co Id room; 2. Refrigeratingcabinet; 3. Oven; 4. Marble-topped table; 5. Table. B. Ice creamery: 6. Ice trough; 7. Machine for breaking up ice 8. Motor turbine; 9. Ice cream containers. C. Kitchen: !O. Large central cookingrange; II. Spit; 12. Steam kettles; 13. Deep friers; 14. Grills; 15. Salamander stove 16. Tables; 17. Hotplate; 18. Mixer. D. Washing-up space; 19. Sinks; 20. Washing-up range; 21. Washing-up sinks for glasses. E. Cafeteria; 22. Oven 23. Percolators. F. Grill-room; 24. Grills; 25. Hotplate

Curnonsky. Although Brillat-Savarin had founded by Curnonsky. had predicted such an academy, its programme programme was nebulous. The brief Republic The Republic of of 1848 had had its its patriotic patriotic banquets, banquets, where the menu comprised only veal and salado salad. drniry tlre French cooking during the period of the Second Empire -The Second 'the reign Second Empire may The may have bave been been 'the reign of electroplated crinolines and and prefects', plated ware and and tinsel, the time of crinolines but it it was also a time that favoured the caisine. cuisine. Magnificent Magnificent festivities and banquets took place place at the Tuileries, and in the banquets took various châteaux chiteaux in which which the court of Napoleon III III lived. The great dinners of the time achieved achieved perfection. perfection. The first edition edition of of the the Cuisine Cuisine classique classique by by Urbain Urbain Dubois Dubois and Auguste Bernard appeared. appeared. This work is still an authority, and has done more for professional professional cooking than even ev en the books of of Car6me, Carême, which which are are sometimes sometimes hard to to read. Among the great great chefs were Armand Gouft Gouffé and Joseph Gastilleur. Gastilleur. 'On 'On ordinary occilsions,' occasions,' says Madame Madame de de Carette, 'the table table at the Tuileries was was rich and and elegant, and and the food exquisite (Souvenirs intimes de de h la cour cour des exquisite and and delicate.' delicate.' (Souvenirs Tuileries.) Tuileries.) 'One ate at almost almost all ail seasons seasons strawberries, peaches, little new of the the chdteaux châteaux of Vernew peas, peas, from from the the greenhouses greenhouses of sailles. . . . There were four double courses, (which means, sailles .... today, two entrées, two two roasts, roasts, etc.) etc.) two soups, two two removes, removes, four four entries, 'The kitchens in the Tuileries were in the the basement basement and the the dishes dishes arrived by by lifts lifts installed installed behind behind the Gallery of Diana'. Despite the brilliance brilliance and delicacy delicacy of of food in high high social circles, circles, many many writers writers criticised the the cooking cooking of of the the time, time, complaining that itit was Courrier de Paris Paris was mediocre. In the the Courier of of 27 27 March March 1858, 1858, cooking cooking and and chefs chefs were were severely severely rated: rated : 'A 'A good dinner dinner is is a rare rare thing thing today. today. Gastronomy Gastronomy is is like like

poetry: it has fallen into a complete decadence ... decadence..... 'The present present generation eats and knows not how to eat ... ... grande cuisine which it is the enemy enemy of that grande it is the which was was France's glory. The chefs are are the cause of this glory. this indifference, which which is blamed on us. us. They have muddled everything, spoilt everyeverything, exhausted exhausted everything.' everything.' 1867, during On 77 June during the On the Universal Exhibition, the June 1867, Universal Exhibition, of the three Emperors took place in the Café dinner of Cafe anglais. anglais. The guests were ail all illustrious, The guests were illustrious, including including the the Czar, Czar, the

Old Old kitchen, kitchen, Hospice Hospice de de Bearune Beaune (French (French Government Governmenr Tourist Tourisi Office) Office)

272

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Czarevi tch, King Grand Prussia, and and several several Grand Czarevitch, King William William 1I of of Prussia, Dukes. A will be found under under the the this meal meal will be found A description of this heading MENU. per head, head, aa considerable considerable 400 francs francs per MENU. It [t cost cost 400 sum at that time. French early twentieth twentieth late nineteenth and and earJy the Jate French cooking cooking of the century end the end its peak since since the has reached its century -- French cooking has of cookery books books Many excellent excellent cookery century. Many of the the nineteenth century. were Urbain with those those by by Urbain were written written at at this starting with time, starting this time, Dubois, Auguste Bernard, Gouffré, Favre. After After and Joseph Gouffr6, and Joseph Favre. 1900 (in culinaire (in like Escoffier's Guide culinaire 1900 important important books Escoffier's Guide books like collaboration de la la table table by by Plaisirs de Gilbert), Plaisirs with Philéas Phil6as Gilbert), collaboration with Nignon, le were Prosper Salles, by Prosper Salles, were le Grand /ivre livre de de la la cuisine cuisine by published. Interesting works pen of master from the the pen of master works came came from cooks Werner, Dietrich, Garlin, Garlin, Werner, as Alfred Alfred Suzanne, Suzanne, Dietrich, cooks such such as prat. Bouzy, Alfred and Pella Pellaprat. Alfred Guérot Gu6rot and These instruction; often often These books only with with theoretical theoretical instruction; books deal deal only y there practice. The The fact fact that that the they gap between theory and and practice. there is is aa gap between theory were practic€ was proves that was highly highly written at at ail all proves that culinary culinary practice were written developed. present-day chef the same same must have have the chef must developed. The The present-day qualities of last century, century, of of the the last qualities as at the the beginning beginning of as those those at whom D6saugiers wrote: wrote: whom Désaugiers Un quand je dine, dine, Un cuisinier, cuisinier, quand - Me divin Me semble semble un un être Atre divin fond de Qui, de sa sa cuisine, cuisine, fufond Qui, du Gouverne genre humain. humain. Gouverne le le genre Qu'ici bas, on on le le contemple contemple Qu'ici bas, Comme du ciel, ciel, ministre du Comtne un un ministre Car temple est un un temple Car sa sa cuisine caisine est sont l'autel. Dont Dont les les fourneaux fourneaux sont l'autel. 'A cook, when 1 dine, divine being, who 'A cook, when I dine, seems me aa divine being, who seems to to me rules One kitchen. One of his his kitchen. race from from the the depths depths of the human human race rules the considers kitchen isis aa his kitchen minister of of heaven, heaven, because because bis him aa minister considers him temple, (See also INTERaltar.' (See also INTERin which his ovens ovens are are the the altar.' which his temple, in NATIONAL NATTONAL COOKERY). COOKERY).

popunot so so popubleue It isis found found in in England England but but isis not bleue du Portugal.It &t Portugal. lar in the the U.S.A., U.S.A., but but they they lar as There are are several species in as itit was. was. There several species are are not not marketed. marketed. Lenten fare. fare. Ali All The as Lenten church as The coot classified by by the the churcb coot isis classified good eaten ways eaten coot. ItIt isis good apply to to aa coot. cooking aa wild ways of wild duck duck apply of cooking (the skin fresh, skin isis oily oily shot (tbe immediately after after itit isis shot fresh, if if skinned skinned immediately piece of and larding with aa piece of larding casserole with in aa casserole and smelly) and cooked cooked in smelly) and bacon.

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COPEAUX petits foars made (Twists) -- Small madefrom from sweets or or petitsfours COPEAUX (Twists) Small sweets aa mixture (q.v.). They given for are They are for langue langue de de chat chat (q.v.). like that mixture like that given squeezed tray, and and cooked cooked from aaforcing-bag forcing-bag on on to to aa baking baking tray, squeezed from in roundaa While still malleable. they thev are are rolled rolled round still malleable, in aa hot hot oyen. oven. While stick into twists. stick into twists. COPPER. - Metal many Metal used in the manufacture of ofmany usedin the manufacture COPPER. CUIVRE cuIvREcooking heat, and good conductor and copper copper conductor of ofheat, cooking utensils. utensils. ItIt isisaagood cooking pans have heatevenly evenly advantage of ofspreading spreading heat cooking pans have the the advantage and food right right through. through. and cooking cooking the the food In doses,copper copperisis one oneof of the the In minute minute but measurable doses, but measurable minerai foods. some foods. andinin sorne mineral elements in the the human human body body and elements in Copper poisons.ExperiExperilong regarded regarded as asvirulent virulent poisons. Copper salts salts were were long ments proved this like false, although althoughsalts, salts, like ments have long proved this false, have long sulphates (verdigris), tend nauseaand and tendto tocause cause nausea sulphates and and acetates acetates (verdigris), vontiting. vomiting.

COOT. has dark dark moorhen. ItIt has Bird sintilar similar to to the the moorhen. FouLeuE -- Bird COOT. FOULQUE ftesh, not strongly strongly ftavoured. flavoured. flesh, dry dry and and not There in France: France: foulque varieties of coot in There are are several of coot several varieties foulque morelle, macroule, also known as foulque judelle, morelle, foulque foulque macroule, also known as foulque iudelle, du Cap (African or crested coot) and foulque foulque àd crête foulque crAte du Cap (African or crested coot) and foulque 273 273

COQ

Camier ) Coq au vin (Robert Carrier)

Also the French word word for cock COQ -- Chef aboard ship. Aiso and a synonym for chicken in certain dishes. Coq is usual on

Coq au vin (from an old recipe) -- Cut aa young chicken into g. (4 oz.) diced Heat 100 g. diced lean breast six pieces. Heat breast of pork, and (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. c.rp) butter in several button onions in oz., i cup) several button onions in 50 in an put in the pieces of pot. When browned, put of chicken, earthenware pot. earthenware (q.v.) garni, morels morels (g.v.) finely chopped garlic clove, aa bouquet garni, aa finely with the lid lid on, or other mushrooms. Sauté, on, until until golden. Saut6, with or Remove the lid and skim off offthe Remove the fat. Add a little good brandy, (scant pint, pour on pint, 2* litre (scant 2f, cups) flame, and then then pour on 1 cups) old fla me, and ] litre for 15 to 20 minutes. Auvergne wine. Cook on aa good heat heat for Remove the chicken and pour Remove pour over the sauce, thickened thickened with the chicken, mixed with with the pounded chicken the blood of the liver and not cook and sorne some brandy. cook the the sauce sauce after this liver Do not brandy. Do The sauce sauce may be be thickened with liaison, liaison, or it will curdle. The BUTTER), instead instead of the blood. Kneaded butter (see BUTTER),

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menus. pAte -- This This dish dish is is prepared with with aa fine fine chicken, Coq en pâte and not aa cock. It It isis much better if made made as as follows, follows, in the and old way: Remove the breast dressed chicken. Stuff breast bone from the dressed Remove gras and and truffies cut into large the bird generously with foie gras pieces, seasoned seasoned with salt and spices, moistened moistened with Cognac and with with sorne some delicate delicate forcemeat. Truss Truss the and the chicken chicken en (i.e. the legs inserted into the sides). entrie (i.e. entrée Brown in butter butter on all sides. Cover Cover with a matignon, rnatignon, made Brown with 11 medium carrot, onion, 1I small stick celery, celery, ail all with medium carro t, 1I onion, small stick pepper, and seasoned seasoned with salt, pepper, chopped, softened in butter and flnely sliced lean thyme and powdered bay. Add 75 g. G oz.) finely e. (3 raw ham at the end of cooking. cooking. Wrap the chicken in aa pig's caul soaked in cold water, or in salt pork. Place on an an oval cau! (see DOUGH), made of Lining pastry (see base of from 500 500 g. base made frorn (11 oz., g. (lI 4| cups) flour, 300 g. l| cups) butter, oz., 4t oz., Il (18 oz., butter, 1I egg, (+ pint, pint, !J cup) l+ dl. dl. (i water, 11 l| teaspoons cup) water, teaspoons salt. salt. Cover Cover the 11 join the edges and pinch together. pastry, join chicken with more pastry, egg. Make an an opening in the pastry to allow the Brush with egg. steam to escape. Cook in aa hot oven for t1 hour. prepared like this: cooked in pastry is more often prepared Chicken cooked Stuff the chicken and and brown brown it in butter, as described described above. Stuff Place in in aa terrine terrine which which exactly exactly contains contains it. it. Cover Cover with Place pdte dfoncer (as above). Brush with egg and cook in the oven. pâte àfoncer Coq en pdte Pirigueux sauce should be be served served with with Périgueux sauce (see Coq pâte should SAUCE).

LOT -- Cake made in the region of Lot for the COQUE DU LOT

Easter celebrations. Easter (2| lb., Ingredients. 1I kg. kg. (2i lb., 99 cups) cups) flour, flour, 66 whole whole eggs, Ingredients. g. (4 oz., 1 sugar, 100 g. 125 g. I cup) butter, 125 g.g. (4 oz., 1] cup) sugar, (4 oz., !? cup) citron, cut in (l oz., g. (1 in long, long, thin (4 25 g. thin slices, slices,25 "up) flavouring made of yeast, cake) yeast, each of lemon third each 1I cake) of aa third essence, orange-flower water and rurn. rum. Method. Make a dough like Brioche Brioche dough (see DOUGH). risen, shape into an an oval oval loaf. Leave it to to rise rise again. When risen, Bake in aa hot oven.

of name for the strawberry-tomato, strawberry-tomato, of COQUERET Popular narne COQUERET -- Popular which the fruit is edible. Cornmon Common in the south of Europe.

pnfffs FOURS -- Two joined A PETITS Two of these these are joined COQUES À 274

CORN with with a stifffruit stiff fruit marmelade marmelade or other composition, composition, and glazed Fondant icw icing (see ICING). with Fondant Pound Pound 500 500 g. (18 oz.,3l oz., 3-!- cups) cups) dry blanched almonds with 500 g. (18 oz., stifly beaten egg OZ., 2f 2<1- cups) cups) fine sugar. Add 12 stifHy whites. whites. Mix Mix well. weil. greasePipe through a forcing-bag forcing-bag into into balls on a sheet of greasePipe through proof proof paper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with icing sugar. Cook Cook in a slow oven. oyen. The also be made as follows: The mixture mixture can also Grind 500 g. (18 o2.,3] oz., 3-!- cups) blanched almonds and mix Grind with 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2j 2<1-cups) whites. Add cups) fine sugar, and 5 egg whites. vanilla 50 g. (2 oz., {t cup) potato potato flour, I1 teaspoon teaspoon powdered vanilla stifHy beaten beaten egg whites. whites. and 5 stiffiy eggs upright COQUETIER -- Egg-cup used used to keep keep boiled boiled eggs COQUETIER applied to to tradespeople wh en served in their their shells. Aiso applied shells. Also when served in dealing in eggs and poultry.

( Nicolas) (maize) (Nicolas) of corn corn (maize) Ear of

grains can can be polenta, cakes The grains be porridge or or bread. bread. The cakes or or polenta, porridge or cornflakes. cornflakes. grilled, boiled or made into popcorn or in French French cookcookis not not much much used used in Fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob is Fresh quantity. in quantity. hand, itit isis eaten eaten in the other other hand, ing. In America, on on the ing. B6cHAMET -- Boil Boil FRAIs À A LA LA BÉCHAMEL ulis FRAIS corn ài la béchamel. bdchamel. MAÏS Fresh corn corn-on-the-cob 1.I. Strip Strip the the cobs cobs Boiledfresh cobs as as for for Boiled the cobs fresh corn-on-the-cob (see SAUCE). Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Béchamel and mix mix tbe the corn corn with and M,c.is FRAIS FRAIS AU AU NATUREL NATUREL -I. MAÏS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob 1. Boiled fresh Boiled milky. and milky. They should tender and should be be tender fresh corn corn cobs. cobs. They Choose Choose fresh with or without their their for 15 15 minutes, minutes, with or without in salt water for them in salt water Boil them leaves. not already leaves, if if not already the leaves, Drain the cobs. Fold Fold back back the Drain the cobs. separately. fresh butter butter separately. the cob. cob. Serve Serve fresh stripped, to expose expose the stripped, to also be be steamed. steamed. Corn-on-the-cob can also Corn-on-the-cob can NATUREL -uds FRAIS FRAIs AU AU NATUREL II. MAÏS fresh corn-on-the-cob corn-on-the-cob D. Boiled Boiled fresh green leaves leaves and and the the Remove the the green Sever at the the base. base. Remove Sever the the stem stem at milk water with with milkboiling water Plunge into into unsalted unsalted boiling silky silky threads. threads. Plunge (4] quarts, quarts, litres (41 (scant pint, pint, 2-!milk to to every every 55 litres 2l cups) cups) milk -!-I litre litre (scant quickly for minutes. l0 minutes. quarts) water. Boil quickly for 10 5-!water. Boil 5] quarts) g. Mix 500 (American cookery). DE MAïs rulis -- Mix 500 g. PAIN DE cookery). PAIN Corn bread (American Corn bread (9 oz., generous 22 cups) g. (9 cups) (18 oz., oz., generous 250 g. (18 cornmeal, 250 oz., 3-!3l cups) cups) cornmeal, tablespoons baking baking sugar, 1l| wheat flour, sieved t tablespoons flour, 44 teaspoons teaspoons sugar, sieved wheat (4 oz., in aa g. (4 100 g. oz., -!-I cup) cup) butter butter in and 100 powder, I-!powder, salt and 1| teaspoons teaspoons salt bowl. bowl. (scant pin pint, 2{ cups) cups) yolks beaten with -!-] litre litre (scant t, 2-!Blend Blend in in 44 egg beaten with egg yolks (6 tablespoons, cream, cup) double double crea m, milk scant !* cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, scant milk and and 1I dl. whites, whisked whisked possible. Fold Fold inin 44 egg egg whites, stirring little as as possible. as little stirring as pans, pour into muffin pans, into into well-buttered well-buttered muffin and pour into aa stiff froth, and stiff froth, filling full. filling them three-quarters full. them three-quarters This bread Bake minutes. This bread isis for 25 25 or or 30 30 minutes. in aa hot hot oyen oven for Bake in served at breakfast. breakfast. from the the oyen, oven, at served hot, hot, straight straight from cobs Fresh rn.nls AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Strip Strip the the cobs unis FRAIS corn in in butter. butter. MAïs Fresh corn (see PEAS). and proceed as PEAS). Peas inin butter butter (see asfor and proceed for Peas cobs Fresh re CRÈME Strip the the cobs rReIs ÀA LA cniMs -- Strip uais FRAIS Fresh corn corn in in cream. cream. MAïs (see PEAS). and PEAS). proceed as la crème crime (see for Peas Peas àit la asfor and proceed Grilled cobson on aa Put the the cobs crurr-f -- Put uds FRAIS rRus GRILLÉ fresh corn. corn. MAÏS Grilled fresh grains have gridiron have When the the grains gridiron and hot oyen. oven. When and cook cook inin aa hot swollen our, take cobs out good col of the the oyen. oven. take the the cobs out of are aa good colour, and are swollen and Grilled cob. on the the cob. or served served on may be stripped, or Grilled corn corn may be stripped, (Cr6ole cookery). unis EN rN Corn giblets (Créole cookery). MAÏS chicken giblets with chicken Corn en en suso suso with pouLET - Suso porridge made from SUSO a porridge made from ABATIS DE DE POULET suso AUX Aux ABATIS - Suso iS'isa cornmeal. andshould should be besimmered simmered not be too thick thick and must not be too cornmeal. ItIt must slowly long time. for aa long time. slowly for Cut pieces. Brown Brown inin fat fat and and add addaa giblets into into equal equal pieces. the giblets Cut the (3 tablespoons) little tomato tablespoons) tomato Add 22 tablespoons little water. water. Add tablespoons (3 purée off the the cooked, drain drain off pur6e and When completely completely cooked, and season. season. Wben stock flour. moisten the the fiour. and keep keep itit to to moisten stock and

Coquille Coquille for roasting

COQUILLE -- Kitchen utensil which is filled with charcoal. is fiIled Used on aa spit. Used for roasting joints on The given to to dishes dishes of of fireproof porcelain, The name name is is also also given tempered The deep deep shell. The tempered glass or metal made in the form of aa shell. shell of the scallop is is used same way. used in the same Various put in salpicons, preparations are are put in these these shells: shells: salpicons, Various preparations purées, These are are fillets, fish fish or pur6es, ragoûts, or shellfish. shellfish. These ragottts, chicken chicken fillets, covered grated breadwith grated sprinkled with in various sauces, sprinkled covered in various sauces, crumbs and grated cheese, oven or or under under and browned in the oyen cheese, and the (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, grill (see garnished). the grill HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop Scallop shells, shells, garnished). CORDÉE much pastry isis said cordie when when too too much said to to be A pastry be cordée CORDEE -- A water pastry isis as as as hard hard as water has in the mixing. mixing. Such Such pastry has been been used used in leather. leather.

CORIANDER. fruits of this The rounded rounded fruits of this CORIANDER. CORIANDRE connNDRE -- The plant our, ({ inch) pale in in col colour, plant are inch) in in diameter, diameter, pale are about mm. (! about 55 mm. with an It and bitter. and aa taste taste both sweet and bitter. It an aromatic aromatic smell, smell, and both sweet isis used many foods, foods, inciuding including and to spirits and to season season many used to flavour spirits meats, cheeses, pastries. puddings and and pastries. pickles, salads, salads, soups, soups, puddings cheeses, pickles, CORKSCREW. with aa spiral spiral Implement with rrnr-eoucHoN -- Implement CORKSCREW. TIRE-BOUCHON thread, pull the the cork cork flat or rounded, used used to to puil which can can be or rounded, thread, which be flat from the less risk risk of of cutting cutting or or breaking breaking the from aa bottle. There isis less bottle. There cork rounded stem. stem. cork with aa rounded CORN Indian corn and corn and (Maize). MAÏS as Indian known as rra,c.is -- Aiso Also known CORN (Maize). corn-on-the-cob. plant isis of origin. ItIt American ongin. of South South American This plant corn-on-the-cob. This was the arrival of of the the arrivai Peruvians before before the was cultivated cultivated by by the the Peruvians Spanish Spanish settlers. settlers. Corn century in the the sixteenth sixteenth century into France France in was introduced introduced into Corn was and grown there. in the the flourishes in are now now grown there. ItIt fiourishes and many many varieties varieties are wine-growing wine-growing districts. districts. The grain isis enciosed with tasselled tasselled tops. tops. fibrous casing casing with in aa fibrous The grain enclosed in Its popular in in America. America. ItIt very popular which isis very makes aa bread Its flour flour makes bread which con tains aa high keep. Corn proportion of not keep. Corn isis oil but does not but does of oil contains high proportion relatively or in quite rich rich in in nitrogenous substances, substances, but but quite poor relatively po in nitrogenous lipids as eaten as regions itit isis eaten In sorne some regions lipids and and carbohydrates. carbohydrates. In 275 275

CORNELIAN CHERRY CO RNELIA N CHERR y Wash some cornmeal. Put it in the pan in which the giblets Wash sorne cornmeal. Put it in the pan in' which the giblets have been browned, together with chopped onion. Add the have been browned, together with chopped onion. Add the giblets, the stock gradually, and cook slowly.

giblets, the stock gradually, and cook slowly.

CORhIELIAN

CHERRY. CORNOUILLf coRNourLLE- - Tart, Tart, red red fruit, fruit, the the CORNELIAN CHERRY. size of an olive, which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is which is preserved in honey or sugar. It is size of an olive, preserved in pickle, like olives, and usd for jelly. It is also preserved in pickle, like olives, and used for jelly. Il is also called a cornel. called a come/. CORNEI This word word l'las has the the following following meanings: meanings: CORNET -- Trus l. A twist of paper paper used for wrapping. 1. A twist of used for wrapping. 2. A horn-shaped pastry. 2. A horn-shaped pastry. 3. A thin slice of ham, tongue, or other meat, rolled into 3. A thîn slice of l'lam, tongue, or other meat, rolled into the shape ofa horn. of a horn. the shape 4. Term used in butchery, in France, for the larynx of a 4. Tenn used in butchery, in France, for the larynx of a

W*{^

carcase.

carcase. Cornet for decorating. coRNET A ofconm. - paper cornet, Cornet for decorating. CORNET À DÉCORER - Paper cornet, which was used for for decorating decorating cold cold dishcs. dishes. Replaced Riplaced in in which was used pAtisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry bag). pâtisserie by the forcing-bag (pastry bag). Car€me, in the Discours priliminaire du phtissier royal, Carême, in the Discours préliminaire du Pâtissier royal, sayso 'I must give an honourable mention to the man who says, '1 must give an honourable mention to the man who invented the paper cornet, used to decorate and embellish inventee! the paper cornet, used to decorate and embellish our modern sweets with meringue. our modem sweets with meringue. 'I have been been told told that that this this ingenious ingenious idea idea belonged belonged to to aa '1 have fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux; others have said that fashionable pastry-cook in Bordeaux; others have said that it was another pastry-cook in Bordeaux. Bordeaux. Whoever Whoever he he was, was, lI it was another pastry-cook in am grateful to him for this delightful innovation; I regret not am grateful to him for Ihis delightful innovation; l regret not being able to associate his name with that of men of reputabeing able to associate his name with that of men of reputa-

ch

Orezza a

hi#s,#

tion.'

tion.' This remark implies that the paper cornet was not usod in This remark implies that the paper cornet was not usee! in p&tisserie until the beginning of the nineteenth century. This pâtisserie untilthe beginning of the nineteenth century. This seerns improbable, one thinks thinks that preceding centuries, that in centuries, seems improbable, if if one in preceding especially in the eighteenth century, the decoration of cold the eighleenth century, the decoration of cold especially in dishes and sweets had been perfected. dishes and sweets had been perfected. Car6me adds can use use the 'to form cornet 'to sponge Carême adds that that one one can the cornet fonn sponge fingers, crcquettes d la reine and biscottes d la parisienie'. fingers, croquelles à la reine and biscolles à la parisienne'.

CORNFLOUR or CORNSTARCH. rfcurr or rr,rds - White CORJ"Ij"FLOUR or CORNSTARCH. FÉCULE DE MAls - White flour used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled from flOUf used for thickening, and in puddings. It is milled from corn (Indian corn or maize). corn (Indian corn or maize). Gastronomic Gastronomie map map of of Corsica Corsica

CORN OIL. uulu DE MAis Corn oil is CORN OrL. HU1LE DE MAÏS - Corn oil is used used extensivelv extensively in in the U.S.A. for salad dressings, frying and as a shortening in the U.S.A. for salad dressings, frying and as a shortening in baking. baking. CORN A variety of valeriana CORN SALAD. SALAD. uAcnr MÂCHE -- A variety of valerialla also also known known larnb's as lamb's lettuce. letluce. This This plant plant grows grows wild wild in in Europe, Europe, North North America, North Africa and Asia Minor. It has been America, North Africa and Asia MinoT. Il has been imimproved by cultivation, and is eaten in salad. In Europe it is on proved by cultivation, and is eaten in salad. In Europe it is on the market during the autumn. It was brought to America in the market during the autumn. Il was brought to America in the early part of the the carly part of the nineteenth ninetcenth century century and and is is cultivated cultivated commercially and in gardens. commercially and in gardens.

vegetables, vegetabJes, and and plums, plums, peaches, peaches, cherries, almonds, oranges oranges and and lemons lemons grow grow in in the the orchards. orchards. Corsican Corsican fip figs are famous. Olives and chestnuts chestnuts grow grow everywhere. Vines Vines give wines wines of Olives and

x

Corn Corn salad salad can can also also be he cooked cooked like like spinach spinach

SPINACH). SPINACH).

good good quality. quality. Arbutus Arbutus trees, trees, which which produce produce red red acid acid fruits reminiscent of strawberries, strawberries, grow gTOw in in the the Maquis. Maquis. reminiscent of Sheep Sheep give give good good meat, meat, goats goats are are eaten eaten young, young, and and there there are are fine-quality fine-quality pigs, pigs, from from which which several several excellent excellent types types of of charcuterie charcuterie are are made. made. Game Game abounds abounds in in Corsica. Corsica. Though Though rare, rare, the the mouflon, mouflon, or or wild wild sheep, sheep, is is still still found. found. In ln the the forests forests are are woodcock; woodcock; and and the the blackbirds, blackbirds, fed fed on on myrtle myrtle and and arbutus, arbutus, are are succulent. succulent. The The old old French French proverb proverb which wruch says saysfau/e de grives, grives, on on mange mange les les faute de merles (failing thrushes, thrushes, one one eats eats blackbirds) blackbirds) could cou Id hardly hardly merles (failing apply apply to to Corsica, Corsica, where where the the hunter hunter who who has has killed killed aa few few of of these t l'lese delicate de li ca te blackbirds, black bi rds, isis upset upset ifif one one or or two two thrushes thrushes are are found found among among them. them. The The best best Corsican Corsican cheese cheese isis Broccio, 8roceio, used used for for sweets swects such such as as fritelles fritelles and, and figadones. figadones. The The ewes' ewes' milk ntilk cheese cheese isis sent sent to to Roquefort, Roquefort, where where itit isis made made into into blue blue cheese. cheese. Corsican Corsican wines wines are are varied, varied, and and some, sorne, without without rivalling rivalling those of Guyenne, Guyenne, Burgundy, Burgundy, or or the the C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne, Rhône, are are those of excellent. Among them them are are those those of of Cap Cap Corse, Corse, portoPortoexcellent. Among Vecchio, Vecchio,Cervione, Cervione,Olmeto, Olmeto,Corte, Corte,and andthe theheady headyMalvoisies, Malvoisies, made madeinin the theneighbourhood neighbourhood of ofCap Cap Corse. Corse. Culinary Amongthem themare arevarious variousfish fish soups, soups, Culinaryspecialities specialities-- Among some sorneofofthem themlike likethe theMarseillq Marseillesbouillabarsse, bouillabaisse,and andflavourid tlavoured with with garlic, garlic, pimento, pimento, capsicunr, capsicum, and and saffron1; saffron; the theanchoiade, ancholade, similar similar to to the the one one made made in in Nice; Nice; various vaüous hors hors deuvre: d'œuvre; all ail

(see (see

COROZO COROZO -- White White substance, substance, used used in in industry, industry, taken taken from from the seed ofthe fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo flour has been used the seed of the fruit ofa palm tree. Corozo f10ur l'las been used as bran flour for bread, but this is forbidden today. as bran flour for bread, but tbis is fOfbidden today. CORRECT. coRRrcER - In cooking, to correct a dish means CORRECT. CORRIGER - In cooking, to correct a dish means to modify too-predominant flavour flavour by by adding adding another another to modify aa too-predominant

savoury substance. sa voury su bstance. CORSICA. Mediterranean island, which CORSrCA, coRsECORSE- Mediterranean island, which isisaa French French dipartement. Corsican cookery is simple. The Corsican is département. Corsican eookery is simple. The Corsican is frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir'outof the drawer'. frugal. He no longer lunches dans le tiroir 'out of the drawer', (the main part of his meal consisting of chestnuts kept in the (the main part of his meal eonsisting of ehestnuts kept in the drawer drawer of of aa cupboard); cupboard); but but he he eats eats dishes dishes based based on on fish. fish, shellfish, and other/ruits de mer,which are plentiful. shellfish, and other fruits de mer, which are plentiful. The sea around Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny The sca around Corsica produces abundant fish, spiny Iobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and trout are found in lobsters and other shellfish. Lampreys and trout are found in the lakes and streams of the island. Corsica produces good the lakes and streams of the island. Corsica produces good

276 276

COULIBIAC and his friends, friends, and retold this this criticism criticism to to his Saint-Evremond SaintEvremond retold in the the end end they they were were words so so often that that in the words they repeated the (the three after which which the the coteaux' (the three hillsides), hillsides), after called 'les trois coteaux' soon came came into being. Ordre des des coteaux very soon

kinds of of shellfish and and other otber fruits fruits de mer, whicb which are eaten kinds

raw or cooked in a a court-bouillon. court-bouillon . Also Aiso deserving deserving special raw mention are are stockfish, prepared in the same way as in Nice; Nice; mention

.

langoustes cooked court-bouillon or or braised braised;; various local langoustes cooked in aa court-bouillon fish fried fried in in olive olive oil, oil, braised, braised, baked baked in the oven, oyen, or cooked in fish various ways ways similar similar to those those used used on the mainland. mainland. various Other specialities specialities are the lonzo, lonzo , a fillet of of pork, typical of Other the country country (see (see LONZO);coppa, LONZO); coppa, aa highly highly flavoured ftavoured sausage; the prisuttu, raw raw ham; barn; omelette omelette au broccio; figatelli, figatelli, aa sausage prisuttu, sausage

paste. The famous isis the one The mûst most famous the one COTIGNAC COTIGNAC -- Quince paste. at Orléans. made industrially at Orl6ans. means to to turn turn aa culinarv term which means COTOYER -- French culinary

joint in the oyen. oven.

made of pig's liver; ragottt ragoût of of pork with with beans beans;: stuffatu of made

in the As in the COTRIADE BOUILLABAISSE -- As COTRIADE or or BRETON BOUILLABAISSE cotriade, the the in the the cotl'iade, fish there are in bouillabaisse, more fish there are bouillabaisse, the the more better. following: These from among among the the following: These fish chosen from fish should should be be chosen (chrysophrys), sardine, Dory, daurade daurade (chrysophrys), mackerel, John sardine, mackerel, John Dory, gurnet, red baudroie a devil), red mullet, (sea mullet, conger eeJ, eel, gurnet, devil), hake, hake, conger baudroie (se etc. One or included. can be large fish fish heads heads can be incIuded. or two two large (on aa wood Heat wood fire) fire) in aa cauldron cauldron (on lard in Heat sorne or lard some butter butter or pale and ions in in it. it. When When the the onions onions tum turn pale onions and cook cook quartered on (scant pint, pint, 2* 2f, gold, litre (scant gold, moisten allowing 1I litre moisten with with water, water, allowing quarters, thyme, cups) potatoes cut per person. person. Add cut in in quarters, thyme, bay bay Add potatoes cups) per and Put the the sliced fish on on top top Bring to to the the boil. boil. Put sliced fish herbs.. Bring and other other herbs of potatoes. Cook rapidly. the potatoes. Cook rapidly. of the Put pour in in the liquor. and pour the liquor. Put sIices of bread in aa tureen tureen and slices of bread in Serve potatoes. large dish, dish, with with the the potatoes. fish separately, on aa large Serve the the fish separately, on

mutton ;; assaignes assaignes ;: pebronata pebronata of of beef, braised braised beef beef flavoured ftavoured mutton juniper; missiasoga missiasoga made with goat's ftesh with juniper:. flesh cured in the

sun roasted or mississa, or stewed; stewed; mississa, sun;; cabris and and cabiros (kid), roasted slashed, marinated, marinated, smoked and cooked on on aa smoked and fillet of pork slashed, tripa, sheep's belly belly or or intestines intestines stuffed grill; mixture of grlll; tripa,sheep's with aa mixture stuffed with spinach, beet beet andfines and fines herbes, herbes, combined with sheep's sheep's blood, tied up up like like a boudin boudin (black (black pudding), pudding), and and cooked in salted cooked in salted tied water. water. Not to to be be forgotten forgotten are are Corsican Corsican polenta, made as as in ltaly; Italy; Not accuncciatu , a a stew stew of of goat meat or lamb or or mutton, with accuncciatu, or lamb potatoes; and small intestines intestines with sheep's sheep's small made with potatoes; tripettes, made and tripettes, cut into into squares, and lard with with tomatoes tomatoes and saut6ed in in lard fried, sautéed cut squares, fried, various condiments. condiments. The is now now rarely de mouflon mouflon is ragoitt de The ragoût various made, sinoe since the the wild have almost disappeared. disappeared. wild sheep sheep have made, More exotic incIude blackbirds which are are roasted blackbirds which More exotic dishes dishes include and wrapped in pitis;; into salmis salmis or pâtés leaves, or or made made into in sage sage leaves, and wrapped woodcock àd la with partridges ; wild boar boar with salmis of of partridges: cacciatore ; salmis woodcock la cacciatore; pibronata sauce. pibronata sauce. Among sweet flour; with chestnut chestnut ftour; are brio/i, made with brioli, made Among sweet dishes dishes are fritelle, aa fritter made tart made Broccio cheese; cheese; fladène, with Broccio fritter with fladine, aa tart fritelle, with Broccio flan, vanilla; fijadone, with vanilla; with Broccio and and ftavoured flavoured with fiiadone, aa ftan, panette douce, and sugar, decorated panette made witb with eggs eggs and sugar, decorated douce, aa bread bread made with (eaten at with cake decorated decorated with torta, aa cake raisins (eaten at Easter); Easter); torta, with raisins pine kernels with aniseed aniseed;; pine almonds and and flavoured flavoured with kernels or or almonds mig/iassis, preleaves; prechestnut leaves; migliassis, cakes oven on baked in in the on chestnut the oyen cakes baked serves in cooked in and other fruits; chestnuts chestnuts cooked made with other fruits; citron and serves made with citron various various ways. ways. There cddratine. is also liqueur called called cédratine. There is also an an excellent excellent liqueur

COUCHER pdti force stuffing, meaning to to force stuffing, pâté term, meaning French term, COUCHER -- French or forcing-(pastry-) bag bag pur6e on with aa forcing-(pastry-) sheet with or purée on to to aa baking baking sheet using nozzle. round or or ftuted fluted nozzle. using aa round COUCH plant, the rhithe rhiCommon plant, cHIENDENT -- Common COUCH GRASS. GRASS. CHIENDENT zomes as aa diuretic diuretic.. are infused infused as which are zomes of of which COUCOUZELLE fruits of variety name for for the the fruits of aa variety French name COUCOUZELLE -- French of grown.They They are are picked before fully grown. gourd which which isis picked before itit isis fully of gourd called zucchind in in Italy. Italy. and zuchetti zuchetti or or zucchini in France, France, and called courgettes courgettes in COULAGE grapes. Also from waste resuIting resulting from Disease of Also waste of grapes. COULAGE -- Disease Inadequate in kitchen kitchen work. work. inadequate supervision supervision in COULIBIAC pie. Plumerey (Russian cookery) hot fish fish pie. Plumerey cookery) -- AA hot COULIBIAC (Russian gives gives the n L'Art L'Art de de lala cuisine caisine française au recipe in the following following recipe frangaise au x/xe XIXe;"siècle: siicle: 'In pie isis made 'In St made with with salmon salmonand and soudac, soudac, this pie St Petersburg, Petersburg, this but (the most prized fish most prized fish inin with sterlet sterlet (the occasions with but on on state state occasions Russia). Russia). 'In fish, they are they are 'In Paris, have neither neither of of these these fish, Paris, where where we we have replaced given here here isisfor for twelve twelve replaced by The description description given turbot. The by turbot. to persons. ItIt isis easy diminish itit easy to to increase increaseor or diminish to fourteen fourteen persons. according guests. number of of guests. according to to the the number 'Take (4-inch) slice 'Take aa 10-cm. andthe thesame same lO-cm. (4-inch) slice of of salmon sakhon and amount and cut cutitit into into 1212square square amount of remove the the ftesh flesh and turbot; remove of turbot; pieces. ion, sorne and plenty of parsley, spring pieces. Chop onion, chivesand springon some chives Chop plenty of parsley, two ail baskets) putthem (small and put punnets (sm ofmushrooms mushroomsand them ininaa two punnets baskets) of ; pepper; large (8oz., pepper; g.(8 pan with cup) butter salt; large sauté with 225 225 g. oz.,JI cup) butter;; salt saut6pan allspice; clove; nutmeg nutmeg and andcinnamon. cinnamon. When When they are they are allspice; clove; softened, put ininthe piecesof glass Madeira, Madeira, put fishand and softened, add add1I glass thepieces of fish simmer gently until simmer gently until cooked. cooked. Take fish and good pieces of Take out andlet let them themcool. cool. Put Putaagood out the the pieces offish tablespoon (se SAUCE) Espagnole sauce sauce(see SAUCE)into into the the fines tablespoon Espagnole fines herbes, put ininaabasin foruse lateron. on. basin for uselater andput herbes, boil boil down, down, and 'Hard-boil 6 eggs op the 'Hard-boil6 yolks.Put Put whitesand andthe theyolks. eggs and andch chop thewhites 225 me (buckwheat) into (8 oz.) pan with into aapan withthe 225 g.g. (8 oz.) kache kache(buckwheat) thesasame volume and saIt. When ititbegins salt. When beginstoto water,sorne volume of of water, some butter, butter, and boil, from the heat. Mix Mix inin50 50g.g.(2(2oz., oz.,!I cup) cup)fine fine removefrom theheat. boil, remove butter, Thebuckwheat for 1515oror2020minutes. minutes.The will andcook cookfor buckwheat will butter, and swell grains must mustbe fromone one beseparate separate from rice;the likeIndian Indian rice; thegrains swelllike another. plate. another. Pour Pour out out onto onto aaplate. 'Take (seeDOUGH), 'Takesorne lessfine DOUGH),Jess finethan than Brioche dough dough (see some Brioche usual. 2lcm. cm. into22sheets, sheets,one one21 Makeititinto Roll itit out outtwice. twice.Make usual. Roll (1(l inch) Laythe thethicker thicker one oneon onaa theother. other. Lay inch) thicker thicker than than the

COTEAUX, - The name given in in name coteaux coteaux was was given DES-The COTEAUX, ORDRE ORDRE DES the people of refined taste, taste, who who not not of refined seventeenth century century to to people the seventeenth only had the wines, but the were able able to distinguish the the best best wines, but had only were to distinguisb same good living. living. which concerned concerned good for everything everything which same taste taste for The poet, de wrote: The poet, Villiers, wrote: de Villiers, Ces hommes admirables, Ces hommes admirables, Ces petits délicats, tables, ces vrais vrais amis amis de de tables, dilicats, ces Ces petits Eux souverains, qu'on en peut nommer dignes souverains, Eux qu'on nommer les les dignes en peut Savent tous les coteaux où croissent les vins. bons vins. Savent tous les coteaux oil croissent les bons Et goftt leur cette science, science, Et leur acquh cette leur goût leur ayant ayant acquis Du grand nom en France. France. on les les appelle appelle en de Coteaux Coteaux on Du grand nom de These men, admirable men, These admirable These good living, living, people, these friends of of good true friends These fastidious fastidious people, these true One worthy sovereigns, sovereigns, One can can name name them them worthy They good wine wine which the the good They who know ail all the the slopes slopes on on which who know grows. grows. Their taste, acquired through through taste, Their science having been been acquired science having They great name name of of Coteaux. Coteaux. in France France by the great They are are called called in by the Connoisseurs jokingly called 'profts good living living were called 'profès were jokingly of good Connoisseurs of dans dans l'ordre l'ordre des des coteaux'. coteaux'. The follows : One day M. Lavardin, The origin origin of title isis as as follows: One day M. Lavardin, of this this title Bishop who was was Bishop of was chaffing chaffing Saint-Evremond, Saint-Evremond, who of Mans, Mans, was dining 'These gentlemen', gentlemen', he he refinement. 'These his refinement. with him, him, on on his dining with of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis said, speaking de said, speaking of comte d'Olonne and of the marquis de Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate everything from the the need need to to Bois-Dauphin, 'exaggerate everything from refine wine drink unless unless the the wine refine everything. They are are not not able able to to drink everything. They cornes Haut-Villiers, or or Ai, of of Haut-Villiers, comes from from one of the the hillsides hillsides of of Ai, one of Avenau.' Avenau.' 277 277

COULIS COULIS baking sheet, sheet, spread spread sorne some buckwheat buckwheat on it, then on it, then aa layer layer of of baking fish, another another layer layer of of buckwheat, buckwheat, fines herbes, sauce, sauce, the the fish, fines herbes, eggs, and and so so on, on, until until everything everything isis used. used. Coyer Cover with with the the eggs, second sheet dough, tri sheet of of dough, trim, moisten the the edges, edges, and and draw draw up up m, moisten second the edges edges of lower sheet of the the lower sheet so so that that itit covers covers the of the the the edge edge of the pie must The pie upper. The must be be the the shape pantin in shape of of what what isis called called aa pantin in upper. Paris. Moisten Moisten itit outside outside and and coyer lightly with cover lightly with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Paris. gentle oyen Put itit in in aa gentle oven for for 1l|-! hours, hours, and and serve serve straight straight from from Put the oyen, oven, with with melted melted butter.' butter.' the poulet ài la Petib coulibiacs coulibiacs de (Russian chicken de poulet la russe russe (Russian pie) chicken pie) Petits (Plumerey's recipe) parsley, mushrooms recipe) --'Chop mushrooms and and spring spring (Plumerey's 'Chop parsley, and cook onions, and cook them them in in butter. little blanched, butter. Add Add aa little blanched, onions, pepper and chopped horseradish, horseradish, salt, grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. chopped When this this seasoning seasoning isis browned, add aa small browned, add small spoonful spoonful When (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil down, down, and and take take off off the the Espagnole sauce heat. Add Add cooked cooked breast chicken cut breast of of chicken cut into into large large dice, dice, heat. (4 oz., g. (4 good 100 g. oz., l* cup) cup) rice rice which which has has been been cooked cooked in in good 100 consomm6, and and chopped plate to chopped hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Put Put on on aa plate to consommé, cool. cool. 'Roll out puff pastry pastry four out sorne some puff four times. Let itit rest times. Let rest for for 10 l0 'Roll minutes, roll it out patties and out to aa thickness thickness suitable little patties for !ittle and suitable for minutes, cut them pastry on them out. out. Lay Lay 24 24 rounds rounds of of pastry damp metal metal on aa damp cut and moisten sheet and moisten them. Put aa lump lump of them. Put the mixture mixture on of the on each, each, sheet press together cover and and press together to to close. close. Moisten Moisten them, and them, and coyer grated breadcrumbs. sprinkle with freshly grated breadcrumbs. 'Cook in aa medium oyen give them oven for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes; give them aa 'Cook good colom colour and and serve.' good are served served as as aa hot entrée. enffie. These patties are

COUP DE DE VIN YIN-- The The amount amount ofwine COUP of wine that that can can be drunk ininaa bedrunk gulp. single gulp. single COUPE JACQUES JACQUFS -- Fruit Fruit soaked soaked in in liqueurs liqueurs and COUPE and covered covered (see ICE with various various ices ices (see ICE CREA CREAMS MS AND with AND ICES). ICES). COURGETTES -- See ITALIAN See IT MARROWS. COURGETTES ALlAN MARROWS.

(liquid) inin COURT-BOUILLON -- An An aromatic COURT-BOUILLON aromatic liquor liquor (liquid) which meat, meat, fish fish and and various various vegetables vegetables are which are cooked. cooked. grecqug for Court-bouillon l,I, àI la la grecque, Court-bouillon for marinating marinating vegetables. vegetables. pouR LÉGUMES couRT-BourrloN ÀA LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE, POUR COURT-BOUILLON t fcuvrrs MARINÉS rue.nluns -(6 tablespoons, Put 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant pints, scant -!* cup) Put cup) olive olive oil, oil, 77dl. dl. (l{ pints, juice of pints) water water and and the the strained strained juice lemons in pan. -! pints) 1l| of 22 lemons in aa pan. garni of Add aa bouquet parsley roots, bouquet garni Add of parsley roots, celery, celery, fennel, fennel, thyme, thyme, 12 to bay; 12 to 1515 coriander coriander seeds bay; seeds and and the the same same number number of of peppercorns. Boil Boil for for 20 peppercorns. 20 minutes. minutes. Use Use according according to to instrucinstructions. This This amount amount isis enough tions. enough for for 25 25 to to 30 30 small small artichokes artichokes or or quantity of an equal equal quantity prepared àd lala grecque. an other vegetables ofother vegetables prepared grecque. grecque, for Court-bouillon II, Court-bouillon If, ài lah grecque, for marinating marinatirg fish. fish. pouR POISSONS porssoNs MARINÉS COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bor.nnoN ÀA LA LA GRECQUE, cREceuE, POUR umrNfs -(4 oz., g. (4 Gently Gently simmer simmer 100 100 g. finely chopped oz., 1I cup) cup) finely chopped onion onion in in (* pin pint, dl. (! cup) olive I-! t, tf cup) olive oil. oil. Do Do not not allow allow the the onion to onion to U dl. ({ pint, Moisten with pint, t3 cup) brown. Moisten brown. with I-! 1| dl. dl. (! cup) white white wine, wine, I-! l} dl. dl. juice of (! cup) water water and and the the strained lemon. strained juice of 1I lemon. Q pint, t3 cup) garlic clove, Add Add an an unpeeled, unpeeled, crushed garni of crushed garlic clove, aa bouquet bouquet garni of parsley roots, roots, aa sprig 22 parsley of thyme, thyme, aa bay leaf, and and aa sprig sprig of bay leaf, sprig of of fresh fennel; fennel; 10 l0 or 12 coriander or 12 coriander seeds, pimentos, and 22 sweet seeds, and sweet pimentos, skinned skinned and and cut into strips. cut into strips. Season Season with with lf teaspoon teaspoon salt and salt and pinch of ground pepper. aa pinch freshly ground of freshly Boil for for 15 15 minutes. Boil minutes. Use Use according according to to the the recipe. recipe. This This amount of (generous 1I lb.) amount court-bouillonisis enough of court-bouillon g. (generous enough for for 500 500 g. lb.) (net weight). fish fish (net weight). Court-bouillon III, III, salt salt water. water. COURT-BOUILLON couRT-Bourrr,oN ÀA L'EAU r'El,u SALÉE slrm -- This This consists consists of of salt salt water water in in the the proportion of 1] of I-! (scant quart, teaspoons salt quart, generous to 1I litre (scant generous quart) quart) water. salt to water. It isis used poach various It perch, sea used to to poach various fish fish such as sea dace, such as sea perch, sea dace, coalfish, cod, cod, white fish, fish, haddock, haddock, etc. etc. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon IV, IV, for for salmon salmon and trout. COURTard salmon salmon trout. couRTpouR SAUMONS BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR sAUMoNs ET ET TRUITES TRUrrEs SAUMONÉES slurrloNfrs -- Made Made with with juice or water; water; lemon juice vinegar; sliced or vinegar; sliced onions onions and and carrots; carrots; parsley; thyme; parsley; peppercorns. These thyme; bay leaf; salt salt and bay leaf; and peppercorns. These fish fish can also be cooked in aa white be cooked white wine wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon V, V, for fon lobster lobster and and other other shellfish. shellfish. COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BoLJTLLoN POUR LANcousrEs ET E-r AUTRES AUTRES CRUSTACÉS cnusrlcns -- Made with ions ; parsley; with water; water; thinly thinly sliced sliced carrots carrots and and on onions; thyme; peppercorns. thyme; bay leaf; leaf; salt salt and and peppercorns. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon VI, Vf, for for lobster lobster and other shellfish. and other shellfish. COURTcouRrpouR LANGOUSTES BOUILLON BourLLoN POUR LANGousrEs ET Er AUTRES AUTRES CRUSTACÉS cnusr.lcns -- Often Often used for cooking cooking shellfish. shellfish. It is is made made with salt water flavoured with thyme and and bay. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon VII, VII, au au bleu, bleuo for for river river trout, trout carp, carp, pike.

(1*

past, sauces COUI,IS -- ln In the the past, general were sauces in in general were called COULIS called coulis coulis (cullis). More precisely, precisely, coulis are the juices which run out of (cullis). of the meat during cooking. the authors say pur6es should Some authors say that liquid purées that liquid should be called Sorne be called couliso and and that that this this word word should should not not be coulis, be used used except except for for pur6es, game purées, pur6es, fish pur6es and fish purées and those of chicken purées, shellofshellfish and and vegetables. Some of these coulis can can be be served served as as soup. Sorne soup. The principal type is potage potage àh la reine. juice, coulis is what we call veal As well veal stock stock (fonds weil as juice, de Qfonds de veau'1, Car6me called blond blond de de veau. vesu. veau), and what Carême In modern practice the word coulis is is often used ln used for thick soups pur6e of are made with aa purée of shellfish: shellfish: coulis made with soups which which are (crayfish cullis), d Ccrevisses (craynsh (crab), de coulis de de crabes crabes (crab), cullis), coulis d'écrevisses de (lobster), de homard (prawns), is de crevettes is often crevettes (prawns), homard (lobster), often used instead etc. instead of of bisque bisque d'icrevisses, d'écrevisses, etc.

COIJLOMMIERS CHEESE See CHEESE. COULOMMIERS CHEE SE -- See CHEESE. COUPAGE -- Mixing Mixing of of various wines to obtain aa commercial blend of of colour, col our, strength, and uniform unifonn taste. COUP D'AVANT wine, of liqueur or D'AVANT -- The The glass of wine, or any alcohol a1cohol which which is taken immediately immediately before before a meal. This term is hardly used now. generous now. It is is used more often often for the generous glass glass of of wine which is drunk after the soup. This custom has been been passed passed from generation to generation, and is still found found in different different countries, countries, in particular in rural communities. communities. The picturesque language language of of the Middle Ages gave names to to the the different drinks drinks which which were imbibed imbibed in in particular circumstances. circumstances. At court, court, and among the great, great, there there was the vin vin &t du coucher (night-cap); in the the middle of the the meal, the coup coup dt du milieu milieu (this custom still exists in Champagne). At a time travelled except except on horseback the time when when hardly hardly anyone travelled glass glass of wine wine which which was taken taken when setting out was was given given the name of of coup coup de l'dtrier l'étrier (stirrup cup). the name

poLJR TRUITES COURT-BOUILLON couRT-BouILLoN AU AU BLEU, BLEU, POUR TRUITES DE oE RIVIÈRE, nlvtiinr, CARPES cARpEs

Made of salt salt water water and and vinegar, flavoured - Made with carrots and sliced onions, parsley, parsley, thyme, bay leaf, leaf, salt and pepper. (see TROUT, and TROUT, Blue trout). Court-bouillon V[I, VITI, white Cout-bouillon white wine, wine, ài la la hongroise. hongroise. COURTcouRTBOUILLON AU AU vrN VIN BLANC, BourLLoN BLANc, À A LA ul HONGROISE uoNcRorsE -- Melt Melt 1I large onion in in 1I tablespoon butter tablespoon minced onion butter until until soft. Season a bouquet garni. Season with salt, paprika pepper, and andabouquet Moisten with 66 dl. (1 (1 pint, pin t, 2-! Moisten 2] cups) dry white wine. Boil for for 8 minutes. prepared This ccourt-bouillon rused for fifish Thrs our t - b ou i I I on is used ar ed as as hors-d'œuvre. sh prep ho r s - d' e uv r e . be made with olive oil instead instead of of butter. butter. It can be lX, vegetable. vegetable. couRr-Bourr,I,oN COURT-BOUILLON AUX Court-bouillon I& Court-bouillon AUX Cook 25 25 g.0 g. (1 oz., oz.,!I cup) cup) finely chopped LÉGUMES -- Cook rfcuMss chopped onion and and g. (l (1 oz., I! cup) cup) finely chopped carrot in in aa tablespoon 25 g. Dr oil. Season with salt and and pepper. Add Add 2 crushed butter or crushed bouquet garni. garlic cloves cloves and and a bouquet garlic ET ET BROCHETS BRocI{ETs -

COUP COUP DE FEU FEU -- The effect effect which is created created by a joint joint being charred. charred. being Also Aiso used used in in professional professional cookery cookery for for the the hours hours devoted devoted to serving up up aa meal. meal. serving

278 278

COUSCOUS couscous bouquet bouquet garni garni made made of of aa sprig sprig of of parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and and aa bay bay leaf. leaf. When When the the stock stock isis boiling, boiling, put put in in the the calf's caIrs head head wrapped wrapped (9 generous in in aa fine fine muslin muslin cloth. clotho Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 oz' oz., generous cup) cup) beef beef or or veal veal fat, fat, chopped chopped and and soaked soaked in in cold co Id water. water. The The fat fat will will melt melt and and form form aa protective protective layer layer over over the the calf's calf's head head and and will will

Moisten Moisten with with 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2] 2} cups) cups) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil for 10 minutes. minutes. This This isis used used for for fish fish and and other other food food served served as as for 10 hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Court-bouillon X, X, au au vert vert -- Cook Cook 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) sorrel sorrel Court-bouillon leaves; leaves; 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.) oz.) very very young young nettle nettle leaves; le av es ; aa few few sprigs sprigs of of parsley; parsley; I1tablespoon tablespoon each each ofsavory, of savory, burnet burnet and and green green sage; sage; teaspoon tarragon tarragon and and aa sprig sprig of of thyme thyme in in 22 tablespoons tablespoons I1 teaspoon (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2* 2} cups) cups) white white wine. wine. Cook Cook for for 88 minutes' minutes. with au vert vert (set (set to to stiffen in in herbs herbs Used for for small small fish fish cooked au Used before the the white white wine wine is is added). added). before After the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked, the court-bouillon court-bouillon is is thickened After with egg egg yolks, yolks, and and made acid with with a few drops of lemon with juice. juice. (See EEL, EEL, Eels Eels au vert). vert). Court-bouillon Xf, XI, white white wine, for for fish fish in marinade. marinade. couRrCOURTCourt-bouillon BOUILLON AU AU VrN vIN BLANC, BLANC, POLJR POUR POISSONS rr{lnmns MARlNÉ'; -- Put into a BOUILLON pan2 pan 2 small tender carrots cut in thin th in scalloped rounds; I1 in thin thin slices; 2 finely chopped sticks sticks of small onion cut in sliced shallots; a small sm ail handful of parsley stalks; celery; 2 sliced sprigs of of thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. 22 sprigs (| pint, scant cup) white wine and I1 dl. Moisten with 2 dl. (t Moisten (6 tablespoons, scant 1 } cup) vinegar. Season with salt and with the ground pepper. Boil for for 15 minutes. Pour, with freshly ground MARIvegetables, over over fish (see MARIh marinade marinade (see fish prepared àd la vegetables, NADE). Cook according according to to the the instructions instructions given in in the NADE). recipe. recipe. be correctly The vegetables in in this this court-bouillon should be The with the served with sliced are usually usually served as they they are and scalloped, scalloped, as sliced and marinated fish. la mirepoix (for braised Court-bouillon wine, ài la Court-bouillon XII, white wine, A LA vIN BLANC, BLANc, À AU VIN or poached fish). counr-BoullloN AU fish). COURT-BOUILLON or poached (+ pint, pint, scant cup) vegetable MIREPOIX scant cup) dl. (t Simmer 22 dl. MrREpoIx -- Simmer powdered thyme, powdered mirepoix (q.v.) (carrot, leek, on ion, celery, thyme, onion, (| pint, pint, scant cup) bay leaf) in butter, and dl. (t and moisten with 2 dl. dry white wine. (] pint, pint, li l* cups) fish cups) fish Boil dl. (} thirds. Add 33 dl. Boil down down by two thirds. by two instructo instrucfumet (q.v.). Boil l0 minutes. minutes. Use according to for 10 Boil for fumet tions. couRr mirepoix. COURT Court-bouillon la mirepoix. Champagne, ài la XIII, Champagne, Court-bouillon XIII, Made in in the the BOUILLON rvlnnpolx -- Made A LA u MIREPOIX BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN DE DE CHAMPAGNE, cHAMpAcNE, À of instead of same using Champagne Champagne instead XII,using same way as as Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII, white wine. wine. couRrCourt-bouillon mirepoix. COURTla mirepoix. red wine, wine, ài la XIV, red Court-bouillon XIV, BOUILLON in the same Made in the same I-.1 MIREPOIX mnepox -- Made BouILLoN AU AU VIN vIN ROUGE, RoucE, Ài LA Burgundy or or wayas from Burgundy red wine wine from XII, using using red way as Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII, peelings can can Bordeaux wine. Mushroom Mushroom peelings white wine. instead of of white Bordeaux instead be la mirepoix. mirepoix. for ail all court-bouillons court-bouillons àit la used for be used Simple ofral -- Coyer Cover 22 and offal meats and for Meats XV, for court-bouillon XV, Simple court-bouillon and carrot and tablespoons of shredded shredded carrot each of (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) each tablespoons (3 onion; 10 peppercorns garlic ofgarlic peppercorns and and 1I clove clove of garni;10 bouquet garni; onion; 1I bouquet with the adding the minutes before before adding l0 to 15 minutes to 15 for 10 Boil for salted water. water. Boil with salted meat. meat. Court-bouillon PouR VIANDESvIANDES BLANc POUR for Meat. meat. BLANC white, for XVI, white, Court-bouillon XVI, (variety meats), as Used meats), such such as offal (variety certain offal for cooking Used for cooking certain heads, and combs sheeps' tongues and and cocks' cocks'combs feet, calves' calves'heads, and feet, sheeps'tongues and kidneys. and kidneys. (see below) adding one Proceed one XIX (see below) adding for Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX Proceed as asfor medium-sized quarters; one studded one onion onion studded cut inin quarters; carrot cut medium-sized carrot with (q.v.). garni (q.v.). bouquet garni clove;and and aabouquet with aa clove; Put court-bouillon. into the the boiling boiling court-bouillon. meat into Put the the meat Court-bouillon BLANc calf's head. head. BLANC for cooking cooking calf's white, for XVII, white, Court-bouillon XVII, pouR CUIRE POUR cold water, water, with cold Mix flour flour with DEVEAU vEAU -- Mix rf;TE DE cuIRE LA r.c,TÊTE generous using (scantquart, quart, generous per litre litre (seant heaped tablespoon tablespoon per using 1t heaped quart) into aa saucepan saucepan Pour into quart) water, Strain. Pour smooth. Strain. water, until until smooth. large cutininhalf, half, or or whole, cut head, either either whole, the head, totake take the large enough enough to inin pieces. tablespoon andadd add 1I tablespoon saltand teaspoon salt pieces.Season with 1I teaspoon Season with vinegar quart) water. Bring generous quart) water. Bring (scantquart, quart,generous per litre litre(scant vinegar per to andaa with 22cloyes, cloves,and large onion onionstudded studded with add1I large to the the boil, boil, add

prevent prevent itit from from going going black. black. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XYIII, XVIn, white, white, for for mushrooms. mushrooms. BLANc BLANC PouR POUR cHAMpIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Also Also used used for for other other vegetables. vegetables. Bring Bring 50 50 g. g. (2 I lemon (2 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) butter, butter, the the juice juice of of} lem on and and I1 teaspoon teaspoon salt salt to the boil in * cup) in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant} cup) water. water. Mushrooms Mushrooms or or other other vegetables vegetables are are cooked cooked in in this this liquor liquor when when it it is is boiling. boiling. Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XIX, XIX, white, white, for for vegetables. vegetables. BLANc BLANC PouR POUR liable to to rfcuurs LÉGUMES - Used for for cooking cooking vegetables vegetables which which are are ]jable artichoke hearts, cardoons, artichoke hearts, chards, cardoons, turn tum dark, dark, such such as as chards, salsify, etc. smooth paste (l oz., flour into g. (1 cup) flour oz., It cup) Mix 25 g. into aa smooth pa'Ste with with 44 Mix 25 (li pints, generous pints, generous (* cup) litre (làcup) water. tablespoons (t water. Add Add 1I litre sieve. Season Season fine sieve. mix, and and strain strain through quart) quart) water, water, mix, through aa fine and 22 or lemon or 33 of j lem Add the the juice salt. Add with with 1I teaspoon teaspoon salt. juice of} on and suet. raw, chopped chopped suet. tablespoons raw, to be cooked. vegetable to be cooked. Add the the vegetable moments. Add Boil for a few moments. studded an on onion with an spiced with can be be spiced This court-bouillon can This ion studded (q.v.), but not garni (q.v.), this isis not but this bouquet garni and aa bouquet clove, and with with aa clove, seasoned have to to be be seasoned in itit have cooked in necessary if the ingredients cooked cooking. stage of cooking. at the final stage keeps them them and keeps vegetables and cooks the the vegetables The court-bouillon cooks The (or butter) is added, added, as as butter) is suet (or in view view that that suet It is is with with this this in white. It from contact contact vegetables from protects the the vegetables which protects itit forms aa layer which with air.

bowl couscous bowl AAcouscous

dish, African dish, North African or COUSCOUSSOU COUSCOUSSOU -- North COUSCOUS or COUSCOUS or millet flour, flour, or made with with millet times. ItIt isis made earliest times. from the the earliest dating from dating (mutton, chicken, etc.). chicken, etc.). meat(mutton, rice, and and meat with cru crushed with shed rice, means becquetée becquetie couscous means word couscous the word say the authors say Some authors Some its beak and beakand takes inin its which aabird bird takes food which (pecked at), the food at),from from the (pecked wrote ininaa young. Leon Isnard wrote Leon Isnard its young. feed its rolls inin small bitstoto feed small bits rolls cooking: African cooking: on African book bookon versionof of Gallic version couscoas isis aaGallic word couscous theword 'It seems that the 'It seemsthat derives word der The word small. The crushed small. meaning crushed rac keskes, keskes, meaning rac ives koskosou, keuscass, koskosou, koskos, keuscass, nameskoskos, phonetically from fromthe thenames phonetically potof of foraapot Africa for partsof North Africa ofNorth different parts kouskous, used inindifferent kouskous,used The steamed.The semolinaisissteamed. glassininwhich which semolina alfaglass oralfa earthenware earthenwareor another ontop topofofanother seton pierced with holes isisset withholes pot, which pot, which isispierced stock. waterororstock. boilingwater onecontaining containing boiling similar similarone forailall namefor thisname used this Africaused North Afriea 'The inhabitants ofNorth 'The inhabitantsof (buckwheat whiteororbrown brown (buckwheat withflour, flour,white madewith kinds kinds of ofdishes dishesmade 279 279

COUSINETTE COUSINETTE flour), and and steamed steamed in in the the keskass, keskass, aa receptacle receptacle similar flour), similar to to aa basin. basin. 'But we we think think that word couscous 'But that the the word couscous or couscoussou isis or couscoussou onomatopoeic, simulatingthémoise simulating thenoise madt}.by <~.\ onomatopoeic, made.by the steam as as itit the steam passes through through the the holes holes of process of passes of the the utensil utensil inin the the process of cooking. cooking. 'In Kabylia, Kabylia, the 'In the word word sekjou sekjou isis used; used; inin the the Mozabite Mozabite dialect oucheou. oucheou. However, However, for dialect for sorne some unknown unknown reason reason the the people of gouni, borrowed people of Oued-Rigt adopted the Oued-Rigt have have adopted the word wordgoznl borrowed from the from the Berbers.' Berbers.' There are preparing couscous. There many ways ways of are many of preparing couscous. grain by Cooking Cooking the the crushed cnrshcd grain by steaming. steaming. CUISSON DE LA cussoN DE LA SEMOULE r'6tuvfs -- Soak grain in sEMouLE ÀA L'ÉTUVÉE Soak the the crushed crushed grain in water water until until (a colander rainer, swollen. swollen. Place Place in in the the cooking cooking vesse! vessel (a colander or or ststrainer, fitted pan, can fitted over pressing itit down. over aa pan, can be used), without without pressing be used), down. Put some water pot, in Put sorne water or or stock stock to to boil proporin the in the boil in the pot, the propor(scant quart, quart, generous tion generous quart) quart) to (generous tion of of 1I litre litre (scant g. (generous to 500 500 g. (i.e. crushed 1I lb.) grain). When lb.) couscous couscoas (i.e. liquid begins When the crushed grain). the liquid begins to to put the boil, the uncovered uncovered vessel vessel containing grain boil, put containing the the crushed crushed grain (The vessel on pot. (The grain isis steamed on top top of of the the pot. vessel in in which which the the grain steamed must never come into contact come into contact with with the the boiling boiling water.) water.) Place aa damp damp cloth cloth between point of between the the two vessels at two vessels at the the point of contact to prevent prevent the the steam steam escaping escaping round round the the edge. edge. When When the steam steam begins to rise, cook to rise, cook for for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Remove Remove from from the grain on Turn the plate. Fork the heat. heat. Tum the grain large plate. Fork itit over on to to aa large over to to work out any glasses of any lumps. lumps. Moisten Moisten with with two water and and two glasses of water aa tablespoon oil. oil. Add Add salt salt and and pepper. Leave for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. Retum Return the pot to the pot to the the heat, heat, and and when when the water boils put put the the couscous couscous back in the back in the steaming vessel. steaming vessel. Steam for aa further 20 20 minutes. minutes. Cooking the crushed grain in in boiling crushed grain boiting water. water. CUISSON DE LA cr.JrssoN DE LA pm ÉBULLITION SEMOULE sEMouLE PAR spoNTANns -- The fnunrrroN SPONTANÉE The steaming vessel is steaming vesse! is dispensed with. Soak the couscous in the couscous in the the same way as as above. above. same way Throw it into the boiling water or or stock, stock, stirring stirring meanwhile. meanwhile. Use (l|i pints, generous quart) quart) strained Use 1I litre (1 strained stock, stock, or milk or milk or water. Add butter and the heat and draw off offthe heat after after 15 15 minutes. minutes. Leave Leave it it for for aa moment, moment, but but serve serve very very hot, hot, with with meat meat or or vegetables. Armenian couscous. couscous. couscous couscous ARMÉNIEN ,tRMfl.uEN -- Prepared Prepared like like the Arab couscous, couscous, with crushed crushed grain, chick-peas, chick-peas, slices slices of of carrots and new turnips, pieces ofwhite cabbage, cabbage, and and hashed hashed mutton, ail mutton, all browned browned in in oil. oil. Hot Hot pimento pimento sauce sauce is is served served separately. separately. Moroccan couscous. Moroccrn couscous. couscous couscous MAROCAIN MARocATN -- Sieve g. Sieve 500 500 g. (18 oz.) finely ground (18 ground hard oz.) finely hard wheat wheat into into aa deep deep dish. dish. Add Add water, drop by water, by drop, drop, working itit with with the the hands hands until until itit isis reduced to a fine consistency; without this reduced this working working aa lumpy lumpy mass will result. Put the the grain in aa strainer strainer and and steam it over steam it over pan of hot hot water for a bain-marie or pan put the a for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Put the couscous in a a pan pan and and separate couscous separate the the grains with with the the hands, hands, lukewarm water. Cook for another adding lukewarm another JO 10 minutes, minutes, then then in butter separate it out again. Mix separate Mix in butter and and salt. salt. Raisins Raisins can can be be added, if liked. added, if liked. Pinet's recipe recipe for which always R. Pinet's for tagine, tagine,which always accompanies accompanies the the couscous, is is as as follows follows:: couscous. 'For 12 12 people: people: 2 2 large 'For quartered chickens, large quartered chickens, aa neck neck of of mutton cut cut for for saut6ing. sautéing. Brown Brown the the meat meat in mutton in chicken chicken fat fat with with 44large large carrots carrots and and 44 diced diced onions. onions. Sprinkle with a tablespoon Sprinkle with a tablespoon mutton red pepper, and and moisten moisten generously generously with ground red with mutton and chicken chicken stock. stock. Add Add crushed crushed tomatoes, tomatoes, aa bouquet garni, and bouquet garni, celery, and and aa sachet sachet containing containing peppercorns, peppercorns, cloves, cloyes, saffron, celery, saffron, cinnamon and and cumin. cumin. cinnamon of quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, garbanzos, garbanzos, Add equal equal quantities quantities of Add turnips, beans, beans, marrow marrow and and diced diced courgettes. courgettes. (chick-peas), turnips, Cook for for I1 hour. hour. The The ragottt ragoût should shoilld be be immersed immersed in in the the Cook in earthenware earthenware pots, pots, without without removing removing the the stock and and served served in stock fat.' fat.' AU MouroN MOUTON Mutton couscous couscous 'chtitra'. couscous Mutton 'chtitra'. COUSCOUS AU

'cHTITRA''CHTITRA' - For persons,prepare For 66or8 prepareand or 8 persons, andsteam steam500 500g.g. (generous1I lb.) (generous lb.)couscous. couscous. Put potaaleg Put into into afrpot legof pieces; 33chopped muttoncut ofmutton into pi<~ces; cutinto chopped clcloves oves of garlic; 33small~chopped peppers;22soupspoons of,gatlic; srnall"chopped red redpepperS; soupspoons sweet pepper powder; powder; 1Iteaspoon sweet red red pepper teaspoon each pepper, eachof oil,salt, ofoil, salt,pepper, parsley parsleyand and chopped choppedchervil. chervil. i pints, Moisten Moisten with pints,generous generous quart) quart)water. with 1I litre litre (1(lf water. Simmer for 33 hours Simmer for hoursor more.When Whencooked or more. cooked and andready ready toto serve, (aoz., serve, add add100 100 g.g. (4 oz.,-1I cup) cup) butter some of liquor buttertotosorne ofthe theliquor from pourover from the meat,and the meat, and pour overthe thecouscous. couscous. Arrange Arrangethe place the thecouscous couscous on largedish, onaalarge dish,place themeats meats on on top, top,and and serve servewith with the therest rest of of the thesauce. sauce.

COUSINETTE (Beamdse cookery) COUSINETTE (Béarnaise cookery) -- Soup Soup made made with with spinach, tu ce, and spinach, sorrel, sorrel, let lettuce, and other green herbs. finelychopped other finely chopped green herbs. COYER. COVER. COUVERT couvERT - - Word Word used used in in various various ways. ways. ItIt isisapplied applied to to the the implements implements set set out outon onaatable tablewhich which has has been (toclear laid. The The expression been laid. expression lever leveror or enlever enleverlelecouvert couvert (to clear the table) means means clearing the table) mealisisover. clearing the the table tableonce oncethe the meal The over. The word word also also applies applies to number of guests present present atataameal: to the the number of guests meal: un 20, or (adinner 100 couverts diner de de 20, 20, de de 100 couverts (a un diner people). dinner of 100people). of20, or100 More (table-setting) means More often often the the word word couvert couvertde de table table(table-setting) means the the three three implements implements used used by by the thediner: diner: the the knife, knife, the fork the fork and and the the spoon. spoon. Although Although together together they they form form aalogical logical collection, collection, the the knife knife for for cutting, piercing solid cutting the fork for for piercing the fork solid food food and and the thespoon for spoon for liquids, liquids, several several centuries centuries separate separate their their discovery. discovery. The The oldest oldest isis the knife. Man's the knife. Man's first first need, need, even primitive in primitive even in times, times, was was to make aa tool to make tool to to cut cut up meat obtained up the the meat obtained by by hunting. hunting. As As the the use use of of bronze bronze and and iron iron was wasstill still unknown, unknown, he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance. Fragments he used flint and obsidian, a volcanic substance. Fragments of of obsidian obsidian have advantage ofbeing have the the advantage ofbeing both both hard hard and and sharp. sharp. Fitted Fitted between between two two bands bands of of wood wood or or bone, bone, bound with bound with plaited plaited fibres, piece of fibres, aa piece of obsidian obsidian made made one one of of the the first first knives. knives. Placed Placed at at the the end end of an arrow of an arrow or or spear, spear, itit became became aa weapon. weapon. Later, Later, bronze, iron and and steel bronze, iron steel replaced replaced obsidian obsidian for for knives. knives. According According to Ammien Marcellin, to Ammien Marcellin, bronze bronze knives, knives, made piece, were made in in one one piece, were used used by by the the Gauls, Gauls, who who used used them them to to divide divide the largest pieces pieces of the largest of meat. meat. From From the the tenth tenth century, century, the the town town of Beauvais had of Beauvais had the the monopoly monopoly for for their their manumanufacture. facture. The The fork, fork, which which originally prongs, was originally had had only only two two prongs, was invented invented later later than than the knife. the knife. The probably contemporary The spoon was probably spoon was contemporary with with the the knife, knife, as as itit would would have have been for liquids. been essential essential for liquids. At At first first itit was was aa simple en handle. simple shell with aa wood wooden shell with handle. Metal Metal spoons spoons were were made made at least as as early at least early as as metal metal knives. knives. Many Many bronze spoons survive bronze spoons survive and can he seen in museums. They are from excavations from excavations and can be seen in museums. They are of of different different shapes shapes and and sizes, sizes, sorne some rounded, rounded, others others elongated, elongated, similar similar to to the the spoons spoons used today. Among used today. Among these these objects in objects in museums museulns there there are only one one or are only or two two early forks, which early forks, which do not do not seem to have been used for eating. In the fourteenth century, seem to have been used for eating. In the fourteenth century, even even amongst amongst the palaces, there the splendid splendid silverware silverware in in palaces, there were were far far more more spoons spoons than forks. Piers than forks. Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, the the favourite favourite of of Edward Edward II, II, owned owned sixty-nine sixty-nine silver silver spoons spoons and and three forks. three forks. These, according to the inventory, were designed for eating These, according to the inventory, were designed for eating pears. Clemence of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons pears. Queen Queen Clemene of Hungary (1328) left thirty spoons and fork at and aa single single fork at her her death. death. M.le M. le comte comte de Laborde writes, de Laborde writes, 'From 'From the the thirteenth thirteenth century century forks forks existed existed for for exceptional exceptional Under the dishes, dishes, but but were were not not in in common common use.' use.'Under influence of the influence of aa famous M. de famous beau, beau,M. de Montausier, Montausier, the generally the fork fork became became generally used used during during the the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. Not (place setting) Not only only has has the the couvert couvert (place setting) made made up up of of these these three pieces become three pieces become widely widely used used today, today, but many implements, implements, but many fill particular needs have been developed. There designed to designed to fill particular needs have been developed. There are dessert, fruit, fish, or are settings settings for for luncheon, luncheon, sweets, sweets, cakes, cakes, dessert, fruit, fish, or crayfish. jam, coffee, crayfish. There There are are spoons porridge, jam, spoons for for absinth, absinth, porridge, coffee, ices, infusions, syrup, soda, tea, or for infusions, liqueurs, ices, liqueurs, mocha, mocha, eggs, eggs, syrup, soda, tea, or for 280 280 Chicory (Belgian endive) à la meunière (Phol. Nicolas) Chicory (Belgian endive) h la meunibre (Phot. Nicolasl

CRACKNEL CRACKNEL glasses of water. There are are special forks forks for winkles, snails, oysters, vegetables, vegetables, fish fish and melons. oysters, These three three basic implements which which make up up the the couvert

are are augmented augmented by by special special implements implements for for eating eating lobster, asparagus, snails snails etc. artichokes, asparagus, v ACHE -- The cow is the female female of the bovine species COW. vAcHE and is generally bred for milk or for reproduction. reproduction. The meat of barren cows, or heifers, is more sought after than that of bullocks. bullocks. The flesh of old cows, worn out by bearing calves and by lactation, is tough and of of inferior quality. Developments in milk production have meant that the herd is renewed more. discarded earlier. When they reach often, and milking cows discarded the butcher butcher their their meat is often of of good good quality, qua lit y, since since breeders fatten them beforehand so that they are in the best possible possible condition.

Dressed Dressed crab

vinegar, and and is is put put back back in in the the shell. preparation is vinegar, The preparation shell. The a knife and and decorated with egg yolks yolks and smoothed with a chopped parsley. The is served with a a Mayonnaise chopped parsley. The crab crab is served with sauce (see SAUCE). AU GRATIN a large crab in Crab au gratin. CRABE cRABE AU GRATIN -- Cook a court-bouillon (q.v.). (q.v.). Let Let it it cool. When cold, court-bouillo,n cool. When cold, remove the legs. Using the point of a knife, make an incision incision claws and legs. of a

COW-PARSNIP. BERCE BERCE - Weed of of the family Umbelliferae, COW-PARSNIP. Umbellderae, common in in marshy marshy places, places, in in meadows meadows and and hedges. hedges. In common asparagus. In LithuLithuSiberia its young shoots are eaten like asparagus. potent ania and Poland its leaves and seeds are made into a potent beer. CRABE - Shellfish Shellfish of the the order Decapoda. Many cRABE order Decapoda. species are edible. ed ible. species (Créole cookery). cRABEs CRABES Er ET Crabs and shellfish in broth (Cr6ole CRUSTACÉS EN EN BoUILLoN BOUILLON - Soften chopped onion, tomato, tomato, cRUSTACES

CRAB. CRAB.

underneath the crab's shell so as to detach the upper part. Remove the meat from claws, legs and shell. shell. Cut the meat Remove mash with with two two forks. forks. Clean the the hollow into large dice, or mash and coyer few tableshell with hot water and cover the bottom with a few spoons Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) to which the crab's liver spoons and the creamy parts, parts, finely finely pounded, are are added. Replace and added. Replace coyer with more sauce. grated the meat and cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on some some melted melted butter butter and brown brown in aa moderate cheese. oyen. oven.

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pounded ginger, thyme, 2 cloves cloyes garlic, and the parts of the parts. crab not usually eaten in some fat. Set aside the edible parts. Moisten the ingredients in the pan with broth and simmer gently for for 22 hours. hours. Sieve, Sieve, pressing pressing to obtain obtain a thick thick sauce. sauce. Put some some fat fat and and a a teaspoon each each of saffron saffron and and chopped chopped pimento pimento in a casserole. Lightly Lightly brown the pieces of crab or shellfish and pour pour the sauce sauce over them. Cook Cook for -some ~ome other shellfish minutes and serve hot hot with Rice ità la creole créole (see RICE). CRABE FRoID FROID - Cook a crab in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, Cold crab. cRABE suitablc for all shellfish, made from water, thyme, salt and a suitable Garnish with fresh parsley. Serve Serve leaf. Leave Leave to cool. Garnish bay leaf. with with Mayonnaise sauce, sauce, Tartare Tartare sauce, sauce, Gribiche sauce oi or sauce (see SAUCE). Green sauce In In England, cold crab is sold sold already prepared (dressed (dressed crab). The meat, mashed with two forks, is seasoned with aa sauce made fron from the crab's liver, English mustard, oil and

(SmaU and large). cASSf CASSÉ (pErrr, (PETIT, GROS) CRACK (Small cRos) cooking sugar sugar (see SUGAR). cooking SUGAR).

--

Degrees in

CRACKNEL (Biscuit). (Biscuit). cRAeUELIN CRAQUELIN - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz., CRACKNEL e. (9 2;1- cups) cups) sifted sifted flour flour with with 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., l0 10 tablespoons) 2f yolks, 8 tablespoons (l (} cup) cup) cold 25 g. cold milk, 25 butter, 2 egg yolks,

(l (1

oz., 2 tablespoons) sugar and a pinch of of salt. o2.,2 rest for 2 hours. Roll it out 1(t Leave the pastry to rest I cm. (f thick, and cut cut into 5-cm. (2-inch) squares. Arrange Arrange on aa inch) thick, a very hot oven. oyen. baking sheet. Brush with egg and cook in a Sprinkle with vanilla-flavoured sugar. Sprinkle

How to prepare prepare crab How

2. To separate body body from from shell, place thumbs thumbs under tail flap and and push pusb 2. upwards until until the the body body breaks breaks away from the the shell sbelJ upwards

1. To To twist twist off off the the legs legs and and claws, claws, wipe wipe crab crab with with damp damp cloth. clotho Place Place on on back back 1. with tail tail flap flap facing. facing. Remove Remov~ claws daws and and legs leg~ by by twisting twisting inwards inwards and and towards towards with you

281 281

Desserts:: timbule timbale Elysle Elysée (Lasserre. (Lasserre. Pfutt. Phal. NNicolas) icolas'l Desserts

(continued) prepare crab How to crab (continued) to prepare How

3. To To remove mou place shell mouth you. and slOmach stomach bag, bag, place shell with with mouth mouth facing facing you. 3. th and thumbs down down and and forward forward on mouth until on mouth until this, this, and and stomach stomach bag bag Press thumbs attached. breaks breaks away awav with with aa click click attached,

4. To To remove 4. remove the the stomach, stomach, take hold of and stomach take hold of the the mouth mouth and stomach bag bag and and carefully remove carefully remove them; piece. Discard them; they in one come away Discard them they should should come away in one piece. them

around inside shell with with handle handle of ofaa spoon, To removemeat, remove meat, ease around spoon, loosening meat into a basin, basin, leaving the soft brown brown meat. meal. Turn all ail the meat shell clean the shell

6. 'false [ine' To trim shell, 6. To shell, lap press tap'false line' around around shell with knife shell cavity cavity with knife handle, handle, press with thumbs until shell wall with until edges edges of wall break ofshell break away neatly. Scrub dry the the away neatly. Scrub and and dry shell shell and and oillightly oil liehtlv

7. Taking Taking body body of of crab, crab, discard 'dead men's men's fingers'. Remove brown brown meat, 7. adding to to basin. basin. Scoop Scoop white white meat meat from from leg leg sockets, sockets, keeping keeping free free from from bone; bone; adding put put in in second second basin basin

to remove rem ove meat. meal. With With back heavy knife knife lap 8. Twist first joint off daws claws to back of of heavy tap sharply round centre of claw's broadest broadest part until the shell ofclaw's apart; until the shell cracks cracks apart; empty both into into white white meat meat basin basin empty both

5.

282

CRAYFISH flukes to which is If this flukes to which is attached aa small black this is is not black sac. sac. If flavour. Approximately one discarded it spoils the delicate flavour. fifth of the gross weight of a crayfish is is edible.

pfltisserie) -- Brioche bread which has CRAMIQUE CRAMIQUE (Belgian pâtisserie)

currants in it.

CRANBERRY or or MOSSBERRY MOSSBERRY -- Fruit of aa small CRANBERRY Fruit of shrubby plant which which grows in regions of in the edible shrubby the boggy boggy regions North America and and Europe. Europe. Cranberries look North America look like like sm ail small cherries and and their colour varies from aa clear pink to aa deep cherries red. They They have an acid, acid, slightly bitter have an and are are unred. flavour and bitter flavour eaten raw. raw. They They may be made into into aa compote or be made pleasant eaten jelly, which has is tradijelly, which tas te. Cranberry jelly is has aa delicate taste. Cranberry jelly tionally used with game and fowl, such as duck and goose. jelly. Coyer is Dr Dr Leclerc's recipe for for cranberry cranberry jelly. Cover the Here is with water and cook cook for for 15 15 minutes, until they are berries with (12 oz., g. (12 Add 350 for each soft. Add 350 g. oz., l| cups) sugar sugar for each 500 500 g. soft. It cups) (generous 1 I lb.) fruit fruit and and cook cook again until aa thick syrup is (generous made. This forms a jelly jelly when cool. CRAI\E. GRUE cRUE -- Wader, seldom used for food food nowadays. nowadays. CRANE. Wader, seldom used for which they fattened specially The Romans prized this bird, which to richer tn give it aa ri cher flavour. flavour. In the Middle Ages, the crane was game birds eaten among the game eaten in the best society. It can only be among and is cooked in the same way as as bustard eaten very young and (see BUST BUSTARD). ARD). (,4. LA). -- Preparation CRAPAUDINE (À CRAPAUDINE Preparation of fowl, particularly of pigeon (q.v.). authors say name cornes comes from from the word Some authors that this this name Sorne say that given to the dish because the birds, crapaud (toad) and was given and was crapaud

Female and male male crayfish Female

trussed in this way, resemble toads. toads.

(courn) D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcnevrssEs -coulis. Brser.rn Crayfish bisque or coulis. BISQUE (COULIS) Thick soup made with crayfish cooked àd la mirepoix. While While pounding the in aa mortar, add add sorne some cooke9 cooke$ rice. pounding the crayfish in Purte of of crayfish crayfish soup.) (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purée Crayfish ài la la bordelaise. bordelaise. ÉCREVISSES EcnevlssEs À A LA LA BORDELAlSE BoRDELATSE -Crayfish Toss the the crayfish crayfish in fine mirepoix mirepoix of vegetables. vegetables. Toss Make aa fine butter separately. separately. Season with salt, pepper and spices. spices. Moisten with crayfish and set alight. Moisten Pour brandy over the crayfish white wine. wine. Add and cook for 20 cook together Add the the mirepoix mirepoix and together for white put them Drain the in aa deep and put deep dish. minutes. Drain the crayfish and them in cooking stock stock with 3 or 4 egg yolks. Add a generous Bind the cooking piece of butter. well. Mask Mask the with this piece of butter. Season weIl. the crayfish with piping hot. sauce and serve at once, piping Bush of crayfish. BUIssoN o'6cREvISSns -- A buisson is Bush BUiSSON D'ÉCREVISSES is a in court-bouillon as bush or clump. clump. Cook Cook the crayfish in small bush for Crayfish Crayfish à d la nage (see below). Leave them to cool.

which is A cake cake which so called because, CRAQUELIN -- A is so because, being very dry, it crunches between the teeth. It is made in different different sometimes in in the same way as as Reims Reims biscuits, someways; sometimes (pdte àd echaudés). times with aa dough (pâte echaudis).

pear with aromatic flesh. CRASSAI\E -- Juicy with aromatic CRASSANE variety of pear Juicy variety (See PEAR.) CRA YFISH (Freshwater). ÉCREVISSE CRAITISH @reshwater). fcnnvlssr

There are are three -- There principal red-clawed crayfish varieties of crayfsh (underof crayfish: the red-c/awed principal varieties part largest of the of the red) which which is is the part of the claws the largest the French claws red) varieties and has white-clawed crayfish crayfish delicate flesh: flesh; the varieties and the white-c/awed has delicate (21to smaller -- not more than 65 to 75 g. (2t which is smaller to 3 oz.); and the slender-c/awed slender-clawed crayfish crayfish which which is is imported imported from the from central and is is of mediocre quality. Europe and Whichever Whichever method of cooking is chosen for crayfish, it is first of aU all to remove the media lamina of the tail necessary first

Ingredients for Ingredients crayfish àd la bordelaise

283

CRAYFISH (hot). MoussELINEs la Nantua mousselines ià la Crayfish mousselines Crayfish Nantua (hot). MOUSSELINES cream forcemeat (see Use Fine Fine cream - Use with fillet or whiting mixed FORCEMEAT) made made with fillet of pike pike or forcemeat is is ready. ready, with aa pur6e purée of crayfish tails. When the forcemeat Fill small buttered moulds with add add chopped crayfish tails. tails. Fill this mixture. Stand in a dish of water and poach poach in the oven. Turn out the mousselines mousselines on a dish, each one set on a round Tum ifpreferred, placed straight on the ofbread ofbread fried in butter, butter, or, ifpreferred, (s9e SAUCE). Decorate the sauce (see dish. Cover with Nantua sauce top of each mousseline with a thick piece of truffie. can be served with various garnishes Crayfish mousseline can with these garchosen to to blend with and covered covered with with aa sauce chosen and V i c t or i a,'etc. nishes c ar dinal, Victoria, c anc alaise, normande, no rmande, cardinal, 'etc. nishes:: cancalaise, braised fish. Mousselines are also also used to garnish large braised Mousselines are used to can be serve
Special Special dish for arranging crayfish arranging

Arrange them on aa special dish, fixing them by their tails Arrange

with bunches of fresh Garnish with the dish. dish. Garnish bunches of to the the points on on the to parsley. parsley. AUX ÉCREVISSES fcREvISsEs Crayfish crofites. croûtes. cRoOrES CROÛTES AUX

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Using CrayUsing

(see below), as for fish tail lail ragofit ragoût àd la Nantua (see below), proceed proceed as la Nantun fish

MUSHROOM). Mushroom croûte crofite (see MUSHROOM). FLAN AUX ÉCREVISSES EcRpvnsrs GRATINÉ cnermE -Crayfish flan with cheese. FLAN (baked pie shell) with Crayfish Fil! flan crust baked baked blind (baked Fill a flan (see below). with grated tai! Nantua (see below). Sprinkle Sprinkle with tail ragoût ragofrt àd la la Nantua cheese. Pour on melted butter butter and brown in the oven. pouR GARNITURE Crayfish as a garnish. EcRsvtssEs ÉCREVISSES POUR GARNITURE -- Wash and gut the crayfish. Truss them (fasten the claws to the tail) in a to the recipe. recipe. Put them in or leave as they are, as they are, according to boiling court-bouillon of water, salt, thyme and bay leaf. Boil until cooked. Use them hot or cold. u6cEoIsE -- Cook Crayfish ài la À u LA LIÉGEOISE la liégeoise. li6geoise. ÉCREVISSES EcnEvlssrs A (see for Crayfish àd la nage (see as for the crayfish in aa court-bouillon as in aa deep dish. dish. Strain Drain and Strain the and arrange them in below). Drain cooking cooking stock and boil down to aa quarter of its volume. Mix (6 tablespoons, g. (4 oz., in in 100 g. oz.,1! cup) butter for 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant 1 t cup) stock. Whisk thoroughly. thoroughly. Pour this sauce over the crayfish. parsley. fish. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. la marinière. mariniire. ÉCREVISSES icnEvrssm À L.c, MARINIÈRE ruA,RrNrilRE -Crayfish Crayfish ài la A LA crayfish in butter over a very hot flame. When When they Sauté Saut6 the crayfish they salt, pepper, powdered thyme and and are browned, season with salt, and moisten with with enough enough dry dry white wine wine to cover bay leaf, leaf, and bay them. and boil for 12 12 minutes. Remove Remove the Cover the the saucepan and boii for Boil down and add crayfish. crayfish. Boil down the the stock stock and add sorne some meatless Remove from the heat and mix in 2 or 3 tablespoons velouté. velouti. Remove tablespoons and sprinkle Pour this this sauce butter. Pour butter. sauce over the the crayfish and sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. (cold). MOUSSE Crayfish mousse mousse ài l'ancienne I'ancienne (cold). MoussE FROIDE FRoIDE Crayfish D'ÉCREVISSES o'EcnEvIssEs À L'lNcmNNe -- Cook 36 medium-sized medium-sized crayfish A L'ANCIENNE lid la mirepoix. Drain them and shell shell the tails. Pound the shells (2 oz., g. (2 in with the mirepoix, adding adding 50 50 g. oz., }{ cup) in aa mortar with the mirepoix, (+ pint, }J cup) cold velouti and butter, cold meatless meatless velouté and 1I dl. dl. dl.
CREAM CREAM HORNS

i

for for Crayfish rolls. Make the the rolls rolls as as shown in in the the recipe. recipe. Deep-fry them of baking baking them them in the the oven. When Ihem instead instead of they they are a good good colour, drain them them and and season season with table salt. Garn ish with wi th fried fried parsley. parsley. sa II. Garnish Crayfish GRATIN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'6cnrvrssns D'ÉCREVISSES -Crayfisb tails tails au gratin. cRATTN Prepare Prepare the the crayfish crayfish tails tails as as for for Crayfish Crayfish tail !ail ragofit ragoLÎt d à la Nantua Nanl/la (see (see below). below). Put the the ragoitt ragoûl in a buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. dish. Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably Parmesan. Parmesan. Pour Pour on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown slowly slowly in in the oven. oven. Crayfish façon de de maitre maHre La Planche. Planche. Craytish tails tails au gratin gratin Ià la fagm cRArrN GRATrN DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'EcnBvnsrs D'ÉCREVISSES A Am LA regon fAÇON on DE M.cfrRE MAîTRE r.A LA rLANcHE PLANCHE -- 'Using crayfish cooked d à la mirepox, mirepoix, prepare prepare a ragotrt mgolÎl of of crayfish crayfish tails tails thickened thickened with with highly highly seasoned seasoned crayfish crayfish pur6e. puree. 'Put ragoûl in in aa buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish dish with with layers layers of 'Put this Ihis ragoitt fresh fresh truffies truffles cut eut into into thick thick slices, seasoned seasoned and tossed tossed in hot hot butter. in aa butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with finely finely grated grated cheese. cheese. Brown Brown in moderate in wann warm water water to to prevent prevenl moderate oven, oven, standing standing the the dish dish in the the sauce sauce from from curdling.' curdling.' Crayfish taU ragott ragoût ià la la Nantua. Nantua. euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRevrssEs D'ÉCREVISSES A À ra LA Crayfish tail NANTUA cup'l mireporx NANTUA - Make Make l+ 1t dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, pint, Jt cup) mirepoix by by cooking cooking aa mixture of finely fineiy diced diced carrots, onions, onions, and celery, celery, with with mixture of powdered powdered thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf, leaf, in in butter butter until until tender. tender. Toss Toss 48 48 crayfish crayfish tails lails in in this lhis mixture. mixture. Season with with salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten (5 pint, pinl, scant seant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Cover Cover the the Moisten with with 22 dl. ($ saucepan and cook cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. saucepan and Drain Drain the the crayfish. crayfish. Shell Shell the the tails. tails. Pound Pound the the shells shells and and the the mirepoix mirepoi>.: in in aa mortar mortar and and add add bichamel béchamel sauce sauce to to this this pur6e purée as as shown shown in in the the recipe recipc for Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the crayfish tails tails in in a small pan pan with with aa tablespoon tablespoon butter. lablespoon butter. Heat Heat without wÎthout browning. browning. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 11 tablespoon flour Aour and and mix mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Moisten Moisten with wÎth 2 tablespoons télblespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) brandy brandy and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *t cup) cup) thick thick cream. cream. Mix. Mix. l,eave Leave to to simmer simmer on on low low heat heat for for 8 8 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the Nantua Nantua sauce, sauce, prepared prepared separately. separately. Remove Remove from from the the heat heat and add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., {! cup) cup) butter. butter. and add According ragoÎlI is is to to be be used, used, the the whole whole or or According to to how how this this ragoitt only only part part of of the the Nantua Nant ua sauce sa uce made made with with the t he pounded pou nded shells shells is it isis to a vol-auis added added to to it. il. Iflfit to be he used used as as the the only ooly filling filling of ofa vol-auvent ven/ or or pie, pie, and and ifif the the tails tails of of the the crayfish crayfish are are small, smalt, more more tails tails will intended as will be be needed. needed. Iflfintended as aa garnish, garnish, itit can C,ln be be served served with wlth other other garnishes garnishes such such as as mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies, tfllffies, oysters, oysters, etc. elc. Crayfish tails in in shells. sheUs. coeurI.t.Es COQUILLES DE DE euErrEs QUEUES o'EcnEvrssEs D'ÉCREVISSES -Crayfish tails Line Line silver, silver, fireproof fireproof china china or or glass glass shells shells with with Mornay Momay sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured tlavoured with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUllers). Pipe Pipe a a narrow narrow border border of of Duchess Duchesspotato pOlalo mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POTA TOES) round round the the shell. shelJ. Arrange 8 shelled t08 shelled crayfish crayfish tails tails on on the the sauce. sauce. Cover Cover with with Arrange 66to more Mornay sauce, sauce, and and sprinkle :;prinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Pour Pour more Mornay on on melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. Crayfish be prepared prepared in in shells shells in in the the same same way, way, Crayfish tails tails can can be using la normande, normande, it à Ia la using different different sauces sauces and and garnishes, garnishes, dà la cardinal, with mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. cardinal, with Crayfish TIMBALE DE DE euEUEs QUEUES o'fcRED'ÉCRECraytish timbale timbale Ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TTMBALE vlssrs VISSES A À L'eNcrENNE L'ANCIENNE -.. Prepare Prepare Crayfish Crayfish tail lail ragofit rogoûl d à la /a Nantua. Nanll/Q. Line Line aa shallow shallow pie pie dish dish uiith with Fine Fine lining linin!: paste pasle (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Line Line with with aa thin thin layer layer of ofFine Fine pike pikeforcemeal (see forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Mix Mix coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies lruffles tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and left left to ta cool, cool, with with the the ragofrt; ragolÎ/; fill fill the the pie pie with with this. this. Cover ragoûl with with aa layer layer of of pike pike forcemeat, forcemeat, cover cover Caver the the ragofit the and seal. seal. Decorate Decoratè with with flaky flaky pastry pastry the pie pie with with pastry pastry and motifs. motifs. Make in the the pastry pastry lid lid to to allow allow the the steam steam to 10 Make aa small small hole hole in escape. escape. Brush Brush with with egg. egg. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oven for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1hour. hour. When ready, pour pour into into itil aa few few tablespoons tabJespoons of of When the the pie pie isis ready, thrn thin Nantua Nanlua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Crayfish Crayfish timbale timbale à la la mode mode de de Chavillieu. ChaviUieu, TIMBAT.E TIMBALE DE DE QUEUES o'fcnrvrssns D 'ÉeR EVISSES A À LA noop MODE DE DE cHAvrLLrcu CHA VILLIEU - Cook euEUEs cralish crayfish dà la mirepoix mirepoix with with white white wine. Drain Drain them, shell shelJ the tails pan with melted melted butter. butter. Pound Pound the the tails and put put the the tails tails in a pan shells in a mortar mortar and and divide divide the pur6e purée in in half. half. With With one half half shells in make make Crayfish Crayfish butter bI/lier (see BUTTER, BUTIER, Compound Compol/nd butters). blillers). Mix Mix the the rest rest of of the the crayfish crayfish pur6e purée with with an equal quantity quanlity of Bicharnel Bùhamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), diluted diluted with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Rub Rub this this pur6e purée through through a sieve sieve with with aa spatula.

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Heat in the the butter, butter, without browning. browning. Heat the the crayfish tails rails in Pour Pour on some fresh fresh cream and blend blend in in the crayfish pur6e. purée. Mix Mix over heat. heat. Moisten Moisten with with thick thick fresh fresh cream. crearn. When When the the ragoitt ragoûl has has thickened, thickened, mix mix in in some some of the the crayfish craytlsh butter. butter. Season Season with with cayenne cayenne pepper pepper and and flavour tlavour with wilh liqueur liqueur brandy. in aa double double saucepan. saucepan. brandy. Keep hot hot in Prepare 24 forcemeat forcemeat balls balls with with lavaret lavaret stuffing. stuffing. Prepare separately separately 24 (This is aa cream cream stuffing stuffing made made with with filleted filleted fish, fish, egg whites whites (This is and and thick thick fresh fresh cream.) cream.) Poach Poach the the forcemeat forcerneat balls balls slowly slowly and and keep FiJI aa pie pie crust of of fine fine pastry, pastry, baked baked blind blind keep them them hot. hot. Fill (empty), with "vith alternate alternate layers layers of crayfish crayfish tail ragofrt ragoLÎI and forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. The The pie pie must must be be hot hot when when filled. filled. Cover Cover with with Nantua Nall/lla sauce sauce (made (made with with the the rest rest of of the the pur6e purée and and the the craycrayfish fish butter), butter), and and decorate decorate with with large large slices sliees of of trufle, t rllffle, seasoned seasoned with with salt and and pepper, pepper, tossed tossed in in butter but ter and and flavoured fla voured with with liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Serve Serve very very hot. hot. Crayfish VOL-AU-VENT Arx AUX fcR-Evlssns ÉCREVISSES -- Make Make Crayfish vol-au-vent. vol-an-vent. voL-AU-vENT aa vol-au-venl vo/-al/-vent case case (see (see VOL-AU-VENT). VOL-AU-VENT). Fill Fill with with Crayfish tail la Nantua. Nantua. /ail ragottt ragoûl dà la Little Little crayfish crayfisb vol-au-venf ,'ol-au-vent, barquettes barquettes or or tartlets tartlets -- See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.

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- Cream Cream not not only only contains of fat, fat, used used for for butter, butter, but but also also aa proporproporcontains globules globules of tion of water, water, casein, casein, lactose lactose and and mineral minerai salts salts (see (see MILK). M ILK). tion of There There is is a a difference difference between between single single cream cream which which is is obtained obtained by by skimming skimming milk milk that that has has been been left left to to settle settle in in shallow shallow bowls, bowls, and and which which contains contains 10 10 to to 20 20 per per cent cent butter, butter, and obtained by by aa separating separating machine maclùne and double double cream, cream, which which isis obtained and 30 per per cent cent butter. butter. Possible Possible and which which must must contain contain at at least least 30 adulterants adulterants are are starch, starch, fecula fecula (potato (potato flour) flour) and and gelatine. gelatine. These to detect detect as as they they give give the the cream cream aa mealy mealy or or These are are easy easy to gluey gluey flavour. flavour. Since is largely largely composed composed of of fatty fauy substances, substances, Since cream cream is sufferers sufferers from from liver liver complaints cornplaints should should not not eat eat it. il. Ilealthy Healthy people people should should use use itit sparingly. sparingly.

CREAM (from (from milk). milk). cniMe CRÈME DU DU LAIr LAIT CREAM

CREAM CREAM CHEESES. CHEESES. FRoMAGEs FRO~AGES AÀ r.l, LA cnirran CRÈME -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. CREAM CREAM HORNS HORNS AÀ T,^q. LA CHIBOUST. CHIBOlJST. coRNETs CORNETS nnulLreT6s FEUILLETÉS AÀ r,l Ingredients (for LA cntrr,m, CRÈME, olrs [)ITS AÀ LA LA cHrBousr CHIBOUST --Ingredients (for 12 12 cornets). cornets).

500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz.) oz.) Puff Puff pastry pas/ry (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous cup) fine fine sugar, sugar. 55 egg egg yolks,4 yolks, 4 egg egg whites, whites. 50 50 g.g. generous *1cup) (2 (2 oz.,* oz., -1 cup) cup) flour, flour,! litre (scant (scant pint,2l pint, 2! cups) cups) milk, milk,! vanilJa ] litre I vanilla pod or aa few few drops drops vanilla vanilla essence essence and and aa pinch pioch salt. saIL pod or pastry (see M e thod. Make Melhod. Make the the pastry pastry as as for for Puff PlJffpas/rY (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and roll roll itit out out 22 mm. mm. (t (~. inch) inch) thick. thick. Cut CUI into into 12 12 strips, strips, 33 crr1. cm. (l(1 inch) inch) wide wide and and 25 25 cm. (10 (10 inches) inches) long. long. Roll Roll these these strips strips

round round cornet cornet moulds. moulds. Arrange weI baking baking sheet; sheet; leave leave for for l0 10 Arrange the the cornets cornets on on aa wet minutes. minutes. Brush Brush them them with with egg egg and and bake bake in in aa hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to l5 15 minutes. minutes. When When nearly nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with icing icing sugar, sugar, glazs, of the oven oven as as soon soon as as they they glisten. glisten. glaze, and and take take them them out out ofthe The The cream. cream. The The base base of of this this preparation preparation is is the the CrCme Crème phtissiire pâtissière (French (French pastry pastry cream). cream). Put Put the the sieved sieved flour, flour, sugar sugar and in aa pan. pan. Add Add the the egg egg yolks yolks and and whip whip until until the the and salt salt in mixture smooth. mixture isis smooth. Moisten Moisten with with the the milk, milk, which which has has been been boiled boiled with with t vanilla vanilla pod. pod. Mix Mix carefully carefully and and cook cook on on aa good goocl heat, heat, beating beating

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CREAMS Add melted Chocolate cream cream II. n. cnirun CRÈME AU AU cHocoI-lr CHOCOLAT -- Add melted pint,2l Custard cream (see cups) Cuszard (seant pint, 2t cups) (see chocolate to 1-] litre (scant below). egg yolks, L'ANGLersr -- Work 88 egg Custard cream. cniMs CRÈME A À L'ANGLAlSE 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, and and a small pinch of until the salt in over a salt in a a pan with with aa spatula, over a gentle heat, heat, untîl is lifted. mixture forms ribbons lifted. Moisten Moisten ribbons when the the spatula is gradually (scant pint, dl. (seant 5 dl. pint, 2f, cups) cups) boiled boi!ed milk, gradually with with 5 flavoured, lemon or orange orange according to ftavoured, aeeordÎng ta taste, with vanilla or lemon zest. all the time, Mix well. weiL Keep the pan pan on the heat, heat, stirring ail lime, until the AI this this point point the the custard until the contents almost almost boil. boil. At cling to the spatula. should c1ing Pass the cuslard custard through through a fine sieve and keep it warm in a bain-marie (double boiler) if required to to accompany aa hot pudding, and keep in lum it il out ouI into inlo a basin and În a cool place pudding, or turn it should be if to case, il be served cold. cold. In In the latter lat 1er case, be stirred ta be while cooling to 10 prevent prevenl a skin forming. This custard can be made more cheapl)' cheaply by using fewer egg yolks (6 instead of of 8) and by adding to the egg yolk and sugar mixture aa teaspoon teaspoon of arrowroot or fecula fecula (corn (corn or potato consistency to the the custard and starch). This gives a thicker thieker eonsistency prevents it allowed to overheat. il from clotting if alJowed addition of gelatine, for It is cold, with the Il is used used cold, the addition for cold (q.v.), Rice such as as bavarois bavarois (q.v.), charlottes (q.v.), sweets, (q.v.), charlottes Rice àd sweets, such 1>Vl:nérn"·,rp (see RICE), etc. I'impiratrice A L'auctAIss coI-rEr gelatine. CRÈME L'ANGLAISE COLLÉECustard cream with gelatine. cRiME À (desserts). Prepare the custard as Used cold sweels sweets (desserts). Used for for cold the custard (l oz.) g. (1 25 g, above. When When it add 25 it is is cooked, add described described above. in cold cold water. Sli!" Stir while soaked in while it gelatine which which has has been soaked the custard, dissolves. Strain S'rain Ihe custard. and stir while it cools. Custard cream with with liqueurs. liqueurs. CRÈME À L'lucLAIsE l'ANGLAISE AUx AUX Custard cream cRiiME A in the same way LIeUEURs Prepare the custard cream cream in LIQUEURS -- Prepare the same way as gelatrne. When When it is cool, creamwith cool, add a tablespoon Custard creom Cuslard with ge/mine. kirsch, maraschino, of liqueur: Curagao, kirsch. of ligllel!!" Curaçao, maraschi no. rum, ru m. etc. MIRoIR -- Custard cream au au miroir. cRiME AU AU MIROlR Custard cream Custard miroir. CRÈME glazed wilh cream glazed with a salamander salamander or hot hOI poker. cream pouR FOURRER filling for wafres 1. I. cniuE POUR FoURRER cream filling Custard cream Custard for waffles (9 oz g. (9 generous cup) butter, LEs cAUFRES - Whip 250 250 g. oz., .. generous g. (7 oz I cup) praline 250 g. (9 o2.,2 cups) icing sugar, 200 g. oz., .. 1 in use as as a m aa slightly warmed basin. When well weIl blended, blended, use filling filhng for waffies. filling for wames wafres n. II. CRÈME cninas pouR FoURRER Custard cream filliog Custard POUR FOURRER (9 oz"' g. (9 LEs cAUFREs -- Cook Cook 250 250 g. o2.,22 cups) lump sugar and LES GAUFRES ball I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, reaches the bal! scant 1 tablespoons, seant * cup) water till it reaches (see SUGAR). Skim and Put 15 15 egg and strain Ihe the syrup. Put stage (see letting ilit fall syrup over them, letting yolks in a basin. Pour the sugar syrllp in a thin thread. Mix. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter (7 oz" g. (7 cup) praline, worked into aa cream. cream. Add Add 200 g. oz., 1I Clip) worked into beating all the time. beating ail is given for these creams, one Although praline flavouring ftavouring IS flavouring. can also use coffee, chocolate, vanilla or orange flavourîng. t'e,NGu.ISr AU lu cniw ÀA L'ANGLAISE with tea. flavoured "ith tea. CREME Custard cream flavoured Custard replacing the castard cream, cream, replacing ruf -_. Prepare Prepare llke THÉ like Mocha Mocha cus/ard coffee with aa strong infusion of tea. made by adding adding ta to the egg yolk can aiso also be custard can be made the egg The clJstard tea leaves have been infused whîch tea and sugar mixture mixture milk in which (without boiling). cream. CRÈMJ' cnurc PÂTISSIÈRE, rAnssiltnr, DIfi FRANGIDIT"E FRANGIFrangipane Frangipane pastry cream. g. (7 oz., vrvr, -Ingredienls. flour, 4 whole oz., 1 lfi cups) sifted flour. PANE - Ingredients.200 g, yolks, Il litre pints, generous generous quart) milk, eggs, 6 egg egg yolks, litre (lf pints, eggs, (2 oz., g. (2 (4 oz. g. (4 50 g. oz., f~ cup) cup) butler, butter, 100 oz. I cup) fine 50 lOQ g. fine sugar, Method. Mix the whole eggs, egg yolks, flour and sugar in in low heat. When they and form aa over low they are are smooth smooth and aa pan pan over beat. When when the spatula is lifted out of the pan add the milk milk the spalula Îs lîf!ed ribbon when and butter. Cook over the heat, stirring cootinuously continuously with and butter. Cook the heat, the spatula. the crushed crushed macaroons. Cook, Cook, stirrîng stirring spatula. Add the Add the prevent a skin fOl·ming. from time to time, to prevent forming. from

consistency. The cooking must be until undl the cream is the right eonsisteney.

rapid, not This makes the crème crime not more more than than 5 5 minutes. minutes. This makes the pdtissiire. "nl><~j'prp To obtain the crDme crème ChibouSI, Chiboust, add 4 stiffiy beaten egg whites, while whîle the mixture is still hot. Fill the cornets with the crcam cream when cold. Use aa forcingFiU cornet of ofgreaseproofpaper. greasepl'oof paper. round nozzle, or a cornel bag with a round cRijMEs -- The The French French word word crème crdme applies CREAMS. CREMFS applies to CREAMS. garnish wb! pped cream; butter and custard creams used used to mish whipped to ga pastries and soups, soups. pastries and cakes; custard cream sauces; and Almond cream. CRÈME 500 g. Almond cream. D'AMANDES - Ingredienls. 500 cRiME D'AMANDES (18 oz., oz., 3~ 3| cups) al almonds, monds, 500 g. g. (18 oz., ps) fine sugar. oz.,2l cu cups) sugar, (18 oz"' g. (18 500 g. oz.,2t ClipS) cups) butter, bUller, 8 eggs. Melhod. Pound Pound the the peeled almonds almonds with wilh the the sugar, Method. When the moistening almonds have Iwo of the eggs. When the almands moislenîng with witb two formed aa paste, add to work add the softened butter. butter. Continue 10 mixture, adding the lhe rest of the eggs one by One. the mixture, one. Butter creams. CRÈMES cniuns AU AU BEURRE REURRE -- There are two ways of making butter creams, which which are used lIsed for far garnishing cakes and pastries. One and One combines butter buller with Custard cream (see is made made with and the below) and the othe!" other is with sugar sugar syrup, beaten egg yolks Both types of butter cream may butter cream may be yolks and and butter. butter. Both types of flavoured chocolate, vanilla vanilla or or any Ilavoured with mocha, praline, praline, chocolate, with mocha, liqueur. Butter crearo cream (with custard) custard) I. cniw AU BEURRE CREME AU RFURRE -- Make a (see below). Beat il it until itil isis lukewann. lukewarm. Add Cuslard Custard cream (see (l lb., 2 eups) pieces for for every 450 g. (1 cups) butter in every 66 dl. in small pieces 450 (l pint, 21 2| cups) custard, beating ail all the (1 the lime. wilh time. Flavour with to the vanilla sugar, or other flavouring, Aavouring, according 10 the recipe. (with custard) 1rzButter cream custllrd) n. cream (with II. CRÈME cnEw AU a,u BEURlŒnnunnE - ingredients. g. (18 oz.) 12 egg eggyolks. 2f cups) fine gredients. 12 yolks, 500 g" fine sugar, 2 oz.. 2i (l lb., g. (1 scant cup) fresh cream, 450 g, dl. (t lb .. 2 cups) butter, $ pint, seant I vanilla pod, or 1I teaspoon 1 teaspoon vanilla essence. essence. yolks, Method. Work together the sugar, egg yol Melhod. ks. vanilla vanilla and cream in a basin. pan or low heat heat or or over aa pan or casserole Put the basin basin over aa Jow and whip the mixture half-full of hot water, and mixture until it il becomes Remove from the the heat and continue frothy, light and white. Remove cools. Mix Mix this custard with with the to whip until ilit cools. ta whip unlil this eustard the creamed butter. butter. Custard creams creams can can be be flavoured various ways; ways; with in various Custard flavoured in tea or vanilla; lemon, orange or mandarin zest; with coffee, Ica liqueurs. cream syrup. CRÈME cniiur AU BEURRE BEURRE AU SYROP syRop -- Boil Butter cre am with Syrllp. (l lb., 2 cups) cups) sugar and and 31 dl. (generous ] pint, I} l] 3t dl. 450 g. (l cups) water to 104°C. 104"C. (22O'F.), making F), maki ng generous 5 dl. syrup. (vanilla, zest. Infuse the chosen flavouring flavouring (vanilla, zest, etc.) in in the syrup. over 12 egg egg yolks, beating Gradually pour the boiling syrup over (l lb., 2 g. (1 constantly. Pass through a fine fine sieve and and add 450 g. constant/y. cups) butter. Mix weil. well. (lf To make cream. CREME cnius CHANTlLLY cHANTILLv -- To make 1I litre litre (Ii Chantilly cream. (scant pint, quart), put tlitre pint,2f, thick pints, generous quart), 21 cups) Ihiek I litre (seant in aa basin. kept in fresh cream in basin. The cream should have been been kepl freso possible. Beat place, or if possible. Beat the for 24 24 hours, if ice, for aa cool cool place, or on on ice, fine on a fine doubles its volume. Drain Ihe the cream on cream until ilit doubles (2 OZ., g. (2 Add 50 and 1I teaspoon fine sugar sieve. Add 50 g. oz., ] cup) cup) fine sugar and sieve. vanilla sugar or a few drops vanilla essence. vanilla fruit. CRÈME AUx FRUITSFRUrrs cRiME CHANTILLY cHANrrLLy AUX Chantilly Chantilly cream with fruit. all kinds of fruit pulp, but strawberry This can be made with ail raspberry are are the most suitable. to the the whipped suitable. Add to or raspberry the most or pulp, passed passed through through a its volume volume of fruit pulp, cream aa third third of ils eream fine sieve. fine I. CRÈME cnius AU AU CHOCOLAT crrocot.,cr -- Pour Pour 22 dl. Chocolate Chocolate cream cream I. (4 oz., (t pint, seant g. (4 125 g. scant eup) cup) warm warm water over over 125 oz.,l| H cups) gentle heat grated chocolate. Stir over aa gentle heat until until the the mixture mixture Stir over then simmer for for 15 l5 minutes" minutes. Add Add 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant boils, then thick cream and and 11 tablespoon butter. * cup) fresh thick can be served cold. Usuallv sen'ed served hot but can

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CREPE CRÊPE pashy cream French pastry or Confectiooer's cream or Confectioner's custard. custard. CREME cniiup French pArtss$nn This pilfisserie for filling isis rnuch much used in pâlisserie used in for large large - This nlling gdteaux, and and small small gâteaux, and in in the preparation of puddings, both the preparation of puddings, both and give two hot and and cold. cold. We We give two ways ways of of making making il, it, the the first first being being hot more economical. the more economical. the First metllOd. method. Put Put 50 g. 50 g. oz., }] cup) cup) sifted sifted f1our, flour, 175 175 g. Q oz., FirSI e. (2 (6 OZ., crp) fine oz., ioi cup) pinch of fine sugar, sugar, aa small small pinch of sail, salt, 1I tabJespoon tablespoon (6 good quality quality butler and 44 whole whole eggs butter and eggs in in aa thick-bottomed thick-bottomed good pan. Work Work the mixture wilh the mixture with aa sp,Hula spatula or or wooden wooden spoon. spoon. pan, (scant pint, pint, 2l Add :\-+ lilre litre (seant cups) boiling milk in in whieh 2{ cups) boiling milk which aa Add pod has vanilla pod infused, or has been been infused, or to to which which aa few few drops drops of of vanilla vanilla essence essence have put the have been added. Stir and put pan on been added. Stir and the pan on the the vanilla heat. Let Let itit boil few minutes, minutes, stirring boil for for aa few stirring constantly constantly to to heat. prevent the the cream cream frorn from catching on pan. on the bottom' bottorn of ofthe the pan. prevent Turn into into aa basin. Stir the the cream basin. Stir cream frorn from time time \0 to lime time as as itit Turn cools. cools. Second method. procedure, but method. Follow Follow the the saille same procedure, but modify Second the iingredients: g.(2+ 65 g. l0 tablespoons) oz., IOta g. flour, 250 250 g. (2} OZ., blespoons) flour, the ngredicn ts; 65 (9 oz., generous cup) fine sugar, 66 egg yolks, (scant pint, oz., generous yolks, ~I litre (seant pint, (9 2| cups) cups) milk milk flavoured flavoured with vanilla, aa pinch pinch ofsalt. of salt. 2i Mocha custard custard cream. cream. CRÈME cRiME ANGLAISE ANGLATsE AU AU \lOKA MoKA -.- PreMocha pared in in the the same same way way as as aa simple simple ClIslard Custard cream, cream, but but Ihe the pared yolks and mixture of of egg and sugar egg yolks sugar is is rnoistened moistened with with milk milk in mixture which sorne some freshly roasted roasted coffee beans infused. beans have been been infuscd. which (The infusion infusion is is made made by heating the the milk milk and and coffee beans (The without allowing allowing itit to to bail.) boil.) without proMsdnEs - 'Put yolks PlombiCres cream. cream. CRÈME cRiME PLOMBIÈRES egg yolks Plombières - 'Put 8 egg and 1I tablespoon rice rice Rour glasses flour in in aa casserole. Add Add 33 glasses and (cups) good good milk put the milk which pan on which isis almost boiling; the pan on aa boiling: put (cups) moderate heat heat and and stir continuously with stir continuously with aa wooden spoon. moderale When the mixture begins la to thicken, remove from from the thicken, remove the heat Whcn the mixture and continue to stir until smooth. Cook for aa few few minutes Cook for and to stir until smoolh. longer. This cream cream must be be of of the consistency as as an an the same consistency longer. This ordinary French (6 OZ., French pastry g. (6 cream. Mix Mix in 175 g. oz., i cup) ordinary pastry cream. in 175 fine pinch of sugar and and aa minute of salt. Pour the mixture mixture "up) into into. fine sugar minute pinch another pan and sel set it on ice, from time stirring from It another pan and it on ice, slin'ing lime to time. time. Il thickens good half as it cools. Just mix in Just before serving, in aa good serving, mix half thickens as it cools. glass liqueur and of liqueur and aa saucerful saucerful of cream. The glass of of whipped whipped eream. whole, amalgamated, should should produce whole, well weil arnalgamated. produce aa light, light, velvety cream consistency. Arrange of aa perfect perfect consistency. Arrange the the cream Cream in a silver cream of dish, or in small pots, specially made biscuitdish, or in small pots, aa pastry-case, pastry-case. aa specially biscuitcase, or (From container of or in in aa dish-shaped dish-shapcd container of almond paste'. paste·. (From case, Ie Cuisinier royal royalby and Fouret, le Cuisinier by Viard Viard and Fourel. 1828). 1828). Praline PraJine custard custard cream. cream. cnilc CRÈME pnlrlN6 PRALINE -- Add Add praline praline to ta Custard cream. Cus/ard cream. St This is St Honor6 Hoooré cream. cream. cnirraE CRÈME sArNT-HoNons SAINT-HONORÉ - This is French pastry paslry cream crearn to 10 which which stiffiy stiffly beaten bealen egg whites are are added when when the Ihe cream crcam is is still still boiling. boiling. Use 16 16 egg egg whites whites for aa cream crearn made made with with I1 litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk, milk, 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 2| 2i cups) cu ps) fine fine sugar sugar and l6 16 egg egg yolks. yolks.

jours de Aux jours de dîme dtme el et de taille de laille Alix Cricy fUI une balaille, bataille, Créey fut une Dont le pays maltrailé le pays maltraitd Dont plaie au Garde la la pfl1ie au cOlé. c|td. Garde Combat d'eSLOc d'estoc eL et de de laille taille l! Combat De celle cette cruelle cruelle en/aille, entaille, De contraste! Il n'est n'est resté resti oO conlraSle! potage réputé, rdputi. QU'lin Qu'un po/age Le lemps temps a, a, pour nos nos délresses, ditresses, Le D' irri sist ib les caresses cares se s D'irrésistihles Dont chaqlle chaque âge dge es/adouci. est adouci. Donl Ligumes Laillés piices taillis en en pièces Légllmes Disent seuls, seuls, en en ce ce lemps-ci temps-ci Disen/ grands comhats combats de de CréeJ'.' Cricy ! Les grands

PÂTISSIÈRE -

This sonnet play on the is aa playon the word sonnet is word raille, taille, and and isis really really This untranslatable. The The sense sense is is this: this: In In the the days days of of lithes tithes and and untranslatabJe. taxes there there was was aa battle battle at at Crecy Cr6cy from from which which Ihe the district taxes greatly. Of suffered greatly. Of this this cut-and-thrust cut-and-thrust fighting, fighting, this suffèrcd this cruel cruel slashing, nothing nothing remains remains bUI famous soup. soup. Time but aa famous Time has slashing, has aa way of healing healing dislress, distress, and and vc:getables vegetables eut cut into pieces arc are the record of ofthe fights at Crecy. Crdcy. only record the great fights CREMANT-- Word used used for Champagne Champagne wines which have CRÉMANT only a smalJ small amount of creamy froth. onlya

(A LA) CREME (À LA) -- Name Name given given ta to meat meat and and vegetable CRÈME preparations, of which pan juices are which the the pan are mixed wilh preparations, with fresh e.g. Mushrooms Mushrooms lid la crème crime (see MUSHROOMS). MUSHROOMS). cream e.g. CRDME RENVERSEE RENvERSnn -- Made Ivtade like like Caramel cusLard custard (see CRÈME lsee CUSTARD). Custard cream cream poured into aa mould, mould, cooked CUSTARD). in the oyen oven in aa bain-marie and and lurned turned out when cold. CREMETS SAUMUR -- Cream cheeses to CRÈMETS D'ANGERS, DE SAUMUR which gradually which egg whites are added. They are prepared by gradually and whipped egg whites, adding fresh stiffiy whipped cream and beating all the time, so that elements ts are properly bea ting ail t hal the various elemen amalgamated. The mixture is put put in in perforated perforated moulds, amalgamared, The mixlure is covered and left to drain in a cool place. To covercd with fine nne muslin, and]en serve, crimets are are turned of their serve, the the crémets lurned out out of their moulds moulds and covered cream. covered with fresh cream. CREOLE culinary preparations, CRÉOLE (A (À LA) - Term for ror various culinary preparations, usually lIsually containing containing a rice ricc garnish, garnish. prepared as a pilaf pilaf or d à la criole simmered in oil, and créole and finished with sweet peppers simmered with wilh tomatoes. A Criole can also A la Créole a150 apply to sweet swcet dishes. Most of of these these are prepared with wilh rice, rice. and flavoured with orange. orange. CREPE. eggs and CRÊPE. eANcAKE PANCAKE - A A dish dish made of a batter baller of eggs flour, poured pourcd sparingly sparingly into a frying-pan, and fried friOO on both sides. sides. CrGpe 1. pArr PÀTE A À cntprs CRÊPF.5 -- Mix Mix 500 g. (18 (18 oz., OZ., 4| 4t cups) Crêpe batter baHer I. sifted oz" scant seant cup) fine sugar, aCI small pinch pinch sifted flour, 200 g. (7 oz., salt, and a vanilla vanilla pod pod (or a few drops vanilla vanilla essence, added added after the by one, Ihe eggs). Add 8 whole wholc eggs and 4 yolks, one by working batter with a wooden wood en spoon spoon until until well weil mixed. working the the batter Add Add *J litre (l{ (1! pints, pints. lf, Il pints) pints) milk, milk, and 22 to to 3 tablespoons tablespoons Cognac or other liqueur, liqueur, and 25 25 g. g, (l (1 o2.,2 OZ., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, brown. bUller, which which has has been bcen heated hea ted until un ril light brown. The batter balter should be be made made in in advance advance and left to ta stand. sland. Cr0pe fi. pAre PÀTE A À cnEprs CR.ÊPES -- Mix 5009. 500g. (l8oz, (1 80z., 4j 4}- cups) cups) Crêpe batter batter IL flolrr, flour, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., generous generous i1- c,rp) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, and and a pinch pinch of salt. Add Add 10 la eggs. eggs. Work Work the Ihe mixture mixlure until until itit is is smooth, smooth, and and add add 33 dl. dL (t (t pint, pinl, lf li cups) cups) fresh fresh cream, crcam, +t dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scantf cup) Cognac, g. (3 (3 oz., OZ., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted melted butter butter scant !-cup) Cognac, 75 75 g. and 11 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pinlS, generous generous quart) milk. Strain Strain through through a fine dl. (3 () tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ft cup) ClIp) orgeat orgeat syrup, syrup, fine sieve. sieve. Add Add +~ dl. and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., I1cup) Clip) finely finely crushed crushed macaroons. macaroons. Flavour Flavour to to taste. tas te.

CREAM CREAM SAUCE SAUCE - See See SAUCE. SAUCE.

CREAM CREAM SOUPS. SOUPS. cRiues, CRÈMES, porAcEs POTAGES - Thickened Thickened soups, based fish or or shellfish. shellfish. (See (See based on on cereal, cereal, vegetables, vegelables, fowl, fowl. fish souPs SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.) CRECY CRECY (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name for for various various preparations, preparations, especially especially a purée Crdcy. Crécy. All Ali dishes dishes named named in in this this way a soup soup called called purde include include aa garnish garnish of of carrots carrOIs and some are exclusively made made from from carrots carrots (see (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). This This name name has has been been given given to 10 various various dishes dishes because because of of the Ihe high high quality quality of of the the carrots carrots harvested harvested at Crlcy, Créey, a small town town in in the the Seine-et-Marne. Seine-et-Marne. Some Sorne authors authors insist insiSI that that the the name name of of this this soup soup comes from of a a small small town town in in the Ihe Somme, near near which the the from that thal of Battle Batlle of of Cr6cy Crécy took took place place in in 1346. 1346. Monselet Monselet leans leans towards lowards this be seen secn from from his his sonnet called called la la Pur6e Purée this view, view, as as can can be Cr6cy: Crécy: 287 287

CRÉPINETTES CREPINETTES with pancakes Sprinkle with slant at both ends. Sprinkle pancakes and trim them them on a slant icing Icmg sugar and glaze in a hot oven. cREpEs AU Crêpes with with Roquefort. Roquefort. CRÊPES AU RoQUEFoRT ROQUEFORT - Make Cr€pes pancakes with unsweetened batter. batter. Spread them with small pancakes the following mixture: (3 tablespoons) Roquefort cheese Work 2 2 tablespoons (3 Work pas te. Add 4 tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) Bichamel Béchamel into aa paste. pepper and nutmeg. sauce (see SAUCE). Season Season with pepper flreproof dish, Roll ~oll up uP. the pancakes. pancakes. Arrange Arrange them on aa fireproof glaze in aa hot oven. and glaze spnnkle wlth grated cheese, and sprinkle with and Edam Crêpes Parmesan, Cantal, Brie, and Gruy6re, Parmesan, Cr4pes with Gruyére, cheese can be made in the same way. pancakes with with aa batter Make thin thin pancakes Crêpes Cr0pes Suzette Suzette -- Make ftavoured mandarin orange juice. and mandarin flavoured with Curaçao Curagao and Spread them with the the following mixture: g. (2 oz.,;\: c,tp) oz.,i cup) Cream Cream 50 g. (2 OZ., oz., iI cup) fine sugar with 50 g. juice of aa mandarin grated zest, its grated butter. Add the juice butter. mandarin orange, orange, its with a and Work the the mixture with and 1I good tablespoon Curaçao. Curagao. Work spatula. spatula. four, them into four, fold them Spread the this filling, fold the pancakes with this and and serve hot.

Crêpes filled filled with with strawberries Crapes

(18 OZ., Crêpe batter balter III. pArE PÀTE e À CRÉPES g. (18 oz., 4~ cn6pns -- Mix 500 g. CrGpe $ cups) flour, ftour, I150 of cup) fine sugar, a pinch of 50 g. (5 OZ., oz., generous j~ cup) salt, l0 10 eggs. Work the mixture mixture and add 4 dl. (* pint, pin t, scant 2 cups) cream cream and j~ litre (scant (scant pint, 2;\: cups) milk. Flavour to pint,2f, taste. (18 OZ., Crêpe batter IV. IV. pirE PÀTE e À cnEpEs CRÊPES -- Mix 500 g. g. (18 oz., ~ Cr6pe batter $ c~ps) sifted g. (5 OZ., generous 1 cup) fine sugar, a cups) flour, 150 I 50 g. oz, generous~· sifted ftour, pmch mixture· yolks. Work the pinch of salt, 4 whole eggs eggs and and 5 yolks. the mixture: add I1 litre (If, (Ii pints, generous quart) quart) milk and and finish with 6 add stiffiy beaten egg whites. Flavour to taste. tas te. pArn À Savoury crêpe batter. PÀTE is used cnBpEs SALÉES slrfrs -- This is A CRÊPES crOpe baffer. for soup hot hors-d'œuvre. garnishes and 250 g. Work 250 for soup garnishes and hot hors-d'euvre. Work S. (9 2± cups) (9 OZ., in aa basin· basin; cups) sifted sifted ftour flour and 4 eggs together in o2.,2{ ( l{ pints: seas?n teaspoons salt. pints, 1+ teaspoons with I! salt. Moisten with if litre (I} season wit~ li mdk, which has been boiled down by one third. The pints) milk, lf plOtS) milk can be replaced by stock or broth. Alsatian crêpes. Pancakes made Alsatian crGpes. CRÊPES ALsACIENNEs -- Pancakes cnfipns ALSACIENNES ~rom batter, filled filled with with redcurrant redcurrant or or raspberry from aa ~rêpe cr2pe batter, jelly, spnnkled Jelly, glazed in aa hot oven. and glazed sprinkled with sugar and poMMEs - See Apple crêpes. DE POMMES APPLE, Crêpes CrApes Appfe crGpes. CRÊPES cnEpEs DE - See APPLE, stuffed apples. stuffed with apples. Buckwheat crêpes, galetous. CRÊPES nr6 NOIR NolR, cr6pes, calle
a

in cau!. Most encased in caul. Most CRÉPINETTES sausages, encased Small sausages, CREPINETTES -- Small layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. similar preparations preparations are enclosed in in aa layer are enclosed caul. salt pork can be be substituted for the cau!. Paper-thin slices slices of salt in melted melted Crépinelles, are usually covered in Cripinettes, however made, are butter fresh breadcrumbs and fat, coated coated with with fresh other fat, butter or or other in the oven. grilled. They can cooked in can be sautéed saut6ed or cooked In the Pieds cendrillon. cendrillon. In the Very are called called Pieds crdpinettes are Very small crépinelles past they were wrapped in in sheets sheets ofspecial of special paper and cooked in the on the same same way they are are cooked cooked in cinders. Nowadays they on hot cinders. fine pastry and as in aa thin thin sheet sheet of finepastry as crépinelles, crdpinettes, or enclosed in cooked in the cooked in the oven. When grilled, or in the oven, crépinelles cripinettes cooked in the oven, When they are grilled, or cooked they are potatoes. They They can can are pur6e of accompanied by of potatoes. are usually usually accompanied by aa purée are also be or, if they they are seasoned sauce, sauce, or, strongly seasoned be served served with aa strongly (see SAUCE). truffied, with aa Périgueux Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). When includes diced are truffied, truffied, the the stuffing stuffing includes When crépinelles cripinettes are of is, and and aalarge slice of truffies, whatever large slice whatever the basic ingredient is, in enclosing itit in placed on truffie on top top of the the stuffing stuffing before before enclosing truffie isis placed the caul. the cau!. pork Crépinettes PORK, Cinderella Cinderella pork Cr6pinettes cendrillon cendrillon -- See See PORK,

6

crépine Iles. cripinettes.

with Chic ken crépinettes. DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Made with Chicken cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES cnfprNetrrs DE in aa mushrooms in minced with truffies and mushrooms minced fowl, fowl, combined combined with truffies and way as as concentrated in the the same same way concentrated, Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) in (see below). Lamb crépinelles cripinettes (see with D'AGNEAU -- Prepared with .Lamb cn6pwnrrrs D'AGNEAU Lamb crépinettes. cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES white or mmced or brown brown and aa white lamb. mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies truffies and minced lamb, in caul. caul. sauce, forcemeat and and wrapped wrapped in in aa delicate delicate forcemeat sauce, enclosed enclosed in poRc -- Flat Pork Flat sausages. sausages. DE PORC Pork crépinettes. cr6pineffes. CRÉPINETTES cREpINETTEs DE pig's Crépinettes with minced minced pig's Made with Cr6pinettes Sainte-Menehould Sainte-Menehould -- Made (with or gravy (with veal gravy or tr?tters, with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal trotters, b~und bound with pork forcemeat forcemeat in aa fine fine pork wl~hout enclosed in truffies) enclosed without dl.ced diced truffies) (wlth (with or in caul. caul. and wrapped wrapped in without truffies), and or Wlthout TrufHed with rRurrfrs -- Made Made with cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES cn6pnErrrs TRUFFÉES Trufred crépinettes. pork forcemeat sausage fine pork forcemeat and and diced diced meat, or or with with aa fine sausage meat, (4 oz.). g. (4 Wrap truffies. portions weighing 100 g. oz.). Wrap into portions weighing 100 Divide into truffies. Divide each piece of portion in in aa piece of cau!. caul. each portion grill under Cover and grill under aa uipinettes with with melted melted butter butter and Cover the the crépinelles gentle pur6e of potatoes and and Périgueux Pdrigueux gentle heat. with aa purée of potatoes heat. Serve Serve with (see SAUCE). sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Veal minced vEAU -- Made Made with with minced cr6pinettes. CRÉPINETTES cRfpINErrEs DE DE VEAU Veal crépinettes. veal, in the way white or or brown the same same way veal, combined combined with with aa white brown sauce, sauce, in as Lamb crépinelles. cripinettes. as Lamb plants which CRESSo which given to Name given two separate separate plants cREssoN -- Name to two CRESS. CRESSON garden have properties. One the other other garden woteruess, the have similar One isis watercress, similar properties.

C/·ess. cress. 288 288

CROQUANT CROQUANT

Jam Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pAtisserie) pâtisserie)

To To these these two two species species should should be be added added lady's lady's smock, slnoek, the the leaves leaves of of which which are are sweeter sweeter than than those those of of watercress. watercress. They They are in spring spring salads. salads. Rock Rock cress eress is is eaten eaten in in salad in in the the are eaten eaten in Vosges, more bitter bitter than than watercress. watercress. There There isis also also wl'ld lVild Vosges, and and isis more

had had saved the the city were granted the privilege privilege of making a special special pastry pastry which which had had to ta take the form farm of a crescent in memory memary of of the the emblem on the Ottoman Ottoman flag. fiag . Put g. (18 oz., 2| 21 cups) sifted flour fiour on the table, and Put 500 g. place 20 e. g. G (5 oz.) dry dry yeast yeast in in the the middle middJe of the the flour. fiouf. place 20 Moisten the lukewann milk milk and the yeast yeast with a little little lukewarm and incorporate quarter ofthe of the flour. fiouf. Let the dough rise. porate one quarter g. (7 oz' oz., scant seant cup) butter and Add a pinch of salt, 200 g. Add dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) milk. milk. Mix these weil with the the re22 dl. well with maining flour fiaur and the the other dough, working it all ail together maining and moistening moistening it, ifif necessary, with a little extra milk. The and be firm, firm, rather than soft. soft. Roll it into aa ball, bail, dough should be coyer with with aa cloth c10th and leave to ta rise. cover into pieces pieces the size size of ofan egg. Using Using aa rolling-pin Divide itit into Divide an egg. the pieces pieces out out into into ovals and and then then roll roll them them up up into roll the crescents. Place Place them them on a baking sheet and and leave leave to to rise. crescents. with milk and bake bake in a hot oven. aven. As soon as as they are Brush with (seant t* cup) ready, baste baste with with a mixture of 3 tablespoons (scant ready, patata flour fiour and andij litre litre (scant pint, 2f, 2{ cups) boiled water. potato Bakers usually sell sell two two sorts sorts of croissants, those made Bakers ta butter, and and 'the others', others', which no no law law obliges him to with butter, declare are are 'made with with margarine'. margarine'. declare CROISSANTS Ar-rx AUX AMANDTs AMANDES - Pound Almond croissants. croissants. cRorssANTs Almond 300 g. g. (ll (Il o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) peeled almonds and and 300 g. (ll (II oz., 300 2~ cups) cups) vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured sugar in in a a mortar, mortar, moistening moistening 2] little by by little liule with with egg egg white in sufficient quantity quantity to obtain little obtain aa be rolled out by hand. Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons paste which which can be paste tablespoons) flour fiour to this paste. (3 tablespoons) and roll these these with Divide into into pieces pieces the the size size of a nut, and Divide beaten egg egg and and roll fioured hands hands into into cigar shapes. shapes. Dip in beaten floured in chopped almonds. almonds. Shape Shape them them into crescents crescents on on them in them of paper paper laid laid on baking baking sheets. Brush with egg yolk. sheets of sheets 10 minutes minutes in the the oven oyen at medium heat. heat, and Bake for for 8 to to l0 Bake then brush brush with with sweetened sweetened milk. milk. then Jam croissants croissants (Austrian (Austrian pfitisserie). pâtisserie). cRorssANTS CROISSANTS AUx AUX Jam CONFITURES - Cut Pull pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH) into coNFIruREs some Puff - Cut sorne of jam on one one side side ofeach of each triangular pieces. pieces. Put Put aa teaspoon teaspoon ofjam triangular triangle, and and roll roll up up as as for ordinary croissants. Put them them on on triangle, at aa good heat. heat. baking sheet, sheet, brush brush with with egg egg yolk, yolk, and and bake bake at aa baking Wheo ready, ready, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine sugar. sugar. When

cresso cress. Cress Cress has has aa slightly slightly bitter bitter taste, tas te, like Iike that that of of mustard. mustard. The in cooking cooking is is watercress. watercress. It is is used used The cress cress most most used llsed in raw, to garnish gar:1ish grilled griJled and and roast roast meats, meats, or or in in salad. salado Although Although raw, to itit isis excellent excellent cooked, cooked, itit isis not not often often treated treated in in this this way. way. Cress contains con tains iron, iron, sulphur, sulphur, calcium calcium and, and, most most important, important, Cress iodine easily assimilable). assimilable). It lt also also contains con tains a large large iodine (which (which isis easily quantity of antiscorbutic antiscorbutic Vitamin Vitamin C. C. Wild Wild cress cress should should not not quantity of be eaten eaten as as itit can can transmit transmit parasites. parasites. When When cress cress isis to ta be be eaten eaten be raw, raw, itit should should be be picked picked over over carefully, carefully, the the thicker thicker stems stems and and

yellowing yellowing or or faded faded leaves Ieaves removed, removed, and and the the rest rest quickly quickly washed and and drained, drained. ItIt should should not not be be left left to to soak soak in in water. water. washed For For recipes recipes see see WATERCRESS. WATERCRESS. CRESTED LARK. LARK. cocHEvrs COCHEVIS - See See LARK. LARK. CRESTED CRETAN DITTANY. DITTANY. DrcrAME DICTAME DE DE cnire CRETE - Aromatic Aromatic CRETAN labinate formerly formerly used used in in treacle. treacle. ItIt isis sometimes sometimes used used in in the the labinate of liqueurs. liqueurs . manufacture of manufacture

CREUX (Wine) (Wine) - French French term term applied applied to to wine wine which whicb lacks Jacks CRELIX body . body. CREVER (To (To burst) borst) - The The use use of of the the word word crever crever gives gives many many CREVER be cooked cooked to to the the people the the mistaken mistaken belief belief that that rice rice should should be people point of of bursting, bursting, when when itit becomes becomes aa glutinous, glutinous, insipid insipid mass mass point (see (see RICE). RICE). CRIQUET - Insect the same same family family as as the the grassgrassCRICKET. cRreuE'r CRICKET. - Insect ofof the eaten in in some same countries. countries. hopper. ltIt isis eaten hopper.

CROCK POT POT-- AAcrock crack pot, pot, commercially commercially produced produced under under aa CROCK variety of oftrade trade names, names, isis an an electrically electricaUy operated aperated counter-top counter-top variety well-insulated cooking cooking appliance appliance that that cooks cooks food food at aa low low well-insulated temperature for for many many hours. hours . Manufacturers' Manufacturers' research research temperature of recipes, recipes, but but the the kitchens have have invented invented aa large large repertoire repertoire of kitchens crock pot pot isis particularly particularly useful useful for for such such foods faods as as stews, stews, soups, soups. crock baked beans. beans, etc. etc. baked CROCODILE -- Reptile Reptile with with strong-smelling strong-smelling flesh. fiesh. It lt isis CROCODILE

CROMESQUI --Small entrée or or hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre made made with with CROMESQUI'Small entrie salpicon (q.v.) enclosed enclosed in in a a pig's caul caul (or (or slices slices of of salt salt aa salpicon pork) dipped dipped in in batter batter and and deep-fried. deep-fried. (See (See HORSHORSpork) D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.) D'(EUVRE, euvre.)

eaten in in some sorne countries countries for for its its alleged alleged restorative restorative properties. properties. eaten ALLIGATOR) . (See ALLIGATOR). (See

CROISSANT -- Crescent-shaped Crescent-shaped roll roll generally generally made made with with CROISSANT

pâle feuilletee feuilletée (puff (puff pastry), pastry), or or with with aa leavened leavened dough dough for for pArc given below. below. which the the recipe recipe isis given which in Budapest Budapest in in 1686, 1686, when wh en This delicious delicious pastry pastry originated originated in This the Turks Turks were were besieging besieging the the city. city. To To reach reach the the centre centre of of the the the underground passages. passages. Bakers, Bakers, working working town, they they dug d ug underground town, by the the Turks Turks and and gave gave du ring the the night, night, heard heard the the noise noise made made by during the alarm. aJarm. The The assailants assailants were were repulsed repulsed and and the the bakers bakers who who the

CROP. JABor JABOT - A dilation of of the the gullet forming forrning a a pouch in in CROP. - A dilation

birds, especially especially grain-eating grain-eating birds. birds. In ln the the drawing drawing of of birds, poultry and and winged winged game, game, the the crop crop is is removed. removed . poultry

CROQUANT (Pfltisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Petit four which, which, as as its its name name CROQUANT - Petit four indicates, crunches crunches when when bitten. bitten. indicates, in aa mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l] oz., l} cups) cups) almonds almonds blended blended Pound in Pound

289 289

CROQUE AU SEL CROQUE the mould and remove the croquembouche. Set it on a pastry orange segments dipped base, and complete by adding more orange with an spun sugar. sugar, topping it with in glazing sugar, an aigrette of spun in glazed in cherries glazed in sugar cooked to Decorate with preserved preserved cherries stage. crack stage.

(18 OZ., g. (18 added little by little. little. Add 500 g. with 4 egg whites, added oz., 2f cups) fine sugar and and 1I tablespoon vanilla sugar or aa few few 2* drops vanilla extract. Strain through a fine sieve. Make the paste into little boat-shapes, boat-shapes, roll in brown sugar and put them on on aa buttered sheet. Bake Bake in and put them buttered baking baking sheet. in aa very moderate oyen. oven.

as an Hot sandwich served as CROQUE-MONSIEUR sandwich served CROQUE-MONSIEUR -- Hot hors-d'euvre or small entrée. entrde. hors-d'œuvre loaf. Spread with butter on Cut slices slices from a fresh or stale loar. Gruydre cheese on top, with a one si de, and lay layaa thin slice of Gruyère side, the sandwich sandwich and fry lean ham on top of that. Close the slice of lean in cJarified until golden in clarified butter. butter.

(A LA) -- Tenu CROQLIE AU SEL (À Term for food food which is CROQUE is eaten seasoned only with salt. Artichokes à d la croque au sel are raw seasoned are example. an example. (Pitisserie) -- Made with ingredients CROQUEMBOUCHE (Pâtisserie) CROQUEMBOUCHE which crunch crunch between glazed the teeth teeth because between the because they which they are are glazed au cassé cassd (to the crack stage). with sugar which is cooked au The typical croquembouche is that made typical croquembouche made of choux proThe is that of choux glazed with sugar, with sorne some kind cream, m, glazed kind of crea fiteroles filled with and arranged one on top of the other. ofthe can also also be made of Genoese pastries, Croquembouches can be made pas tries, almond paste, and various fruits, the one one most paste, and meringues, almond frequently made today being croquembouche of oranges. frequently (Car6me's recipe)' Croquembouche of of chestnuts chestnuts (Carême's recipe)' CROCroquembouche cRo'Grill 60 DE MARRONS MARRoNs GLACÉS crncEs -- 'Grill fine Spanish QUEMBOUCHE 60 fine euEMBoucHE DE chestnuts, and and after after having chestnuts, having peeled them them and and removed any glazeby ofburning, in sugar cooked to traces of burning, glaze by dipping them in Place them, as the crack stage (see SUGAR). Place as soon as glazed, mould. into a mould. to be 'The croquembouche has to be piled up at the the last minute before serving, because the moisture contained in the chestto soften soften the sugar and and make it lose both its connuts tends to sistency sistencv and its brilliance.'

famous are CROQITETS-Dry of which the most famous CROQUETS - Dry petitsfours petitsfours ofwhich those of the Bordeaux area. Bar almond cRoeuETS DE DE BAR Bar BAR AUx AUX AMANDES -almond croquets. croquets. CROQUETS ( I 8 OZ., Ingredients. 2l 2lcups) fi ne sugar, 250 g. (9 OZ., oz., 2* oz., 2* Ingredients. 500 g. (18 cups) fine g. (10 OZ., 2j cups) sifted flour, cups) ground almonds, 275 g. ftour, 8 oz., 2! tablespoon vanilla sugar. egg whites, 1I tablespoon Method. Moisten the sugar and ground almonds almonds in a basin whites worked in one at a time·. time: Mix in the sifted with the egg whites flour and and vanilla sugar. sugar. Arrange Arrange on sheet in baking sheet in the ftour on aa baking shape of ofleaves, leafshape, shape leaves, using a thin piece piece of card bent into leaf sha pe, ofcard or a special metal cutter. gentle oyen. in aa gentle Bake in When ready, leave leave to to cool cool on on a Bake oven. When jar or tin, and keep in a dry place. marble slab. Store in a jar croquets. CROQUETS cRoeuETs BORDELAIS BoRDELATS -- Pound Pound 300 g. Bordelais croquets. (ll1 OZ., o2.,22 cups) cups) peeled almonds in mortar with 150 g. with 150 (1 peeled almonds in aa mortar (5 OZ., g. (10 OZ., oz., scant cup) unpeeled oz., lf (5 unpeeled almonds, 275 g. Ik cups) g. (4 OZ., grated oz., ti cup) butter,2 sugar, 100 g. eggs, the the grated butter, 2 whole eggs, sugar, of a lemon orange, a packet of zest of lem on or orange, of powdered yeast and a pinch of salt. and roll into into the fonu form of aa large boudin up and boudin (black Chop up pudding), at the edges. Place on on aa baking pudding), slightly flattened ftattened at the edges. baking sheet. Brush with egg, egg, score it, and and bake for for 15 minutes in a sheet. moderate oyen. oven. Cut into slices. slices. salpicon CROQUETTES -- Small preparations made with a salpicon containing, as (q.v.) bound with a white or brown sauce and containing, well as as the the basic ingredient, chopped mushrooms, truffies truffles well basic ingredient, sometimes lean ham. and sometimes They can also be made with potatoes or other vegetables, fresh or or dried; dried; with with rice rice cooked cooked in in stock water; with fresh stock or or water; and Bichamel various forms of pasta combined with cheese and Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE); or with a hash or a forcemeat ofvarious of various meats or fish. Sweet croquettes are made with rice cooked in milk, with or with with aa salpicon salpicon of fruit combined with semolina, or fruit combined with stiff (see CREAM). Croquets French pastry cream cream (see Croquers is is the the name element of of croquettes croquettes made with a basic element given to a number of pasta. salpicon (q.v.) of 500 g. Preparation of croquettes -- Mix a salpicon Preparation (18 oz.) of the principal element (poultry, game, veal, veal, lamb (9 oz.) very small g. (9 small dice dice with or offal) offal) cut cut up up into into very with 250 250 g. or g. (4 oz.) diced diced mushrooms and and 100 g. diced truffles. cooked, diced truffies. with 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, Moisten with tablespoons, scant -tI cup) Madeira Moisten Madeira and heat in the oyen oven in a covered pan. (f pint, scant 2 cups) cups) Velouté Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) Add 4 dl.
Croquembouche of oranges of oranges Croquernbouche

D'oRANcRs Croquembouche Croquembouche of oranges. CROQUEMBOUCHE cRoeuEMBoucHE D'ORANGESDip segments segments of orange in sugar cooked cooked to to crack crack stage. stage. Dip in sugar Arrange them one Arrange in aa croquembouche one on on top top of the other other in mould. When the sugar is is cold, lightly heat the periphery of

290

CROQUETTES CROQUETTES Arrange tbem grill or them on on aa grill in aa frying or in frying basket, plunge basket, and and plunge Arrange them into into boiling boiling oil. oil. Cook Cook until golden. until they they are are crisp crisp and and golden. them Drain, wipe wipe with with aa cloth, cloth, and and sprinkle sprinkle witb with fine fine salt. salt. Drain, Arrange the the croquettes croquettes in in the pyramid or form ofa the form of a pyramid or turban, turban, Arrange garnish with and garnish parsley. with curled curled parsley. and When croquettes croquettes are are served served as as an an entrée, entrie, they they are are accomaccomWhen panied by garnish of by aa garnish fresh vegetables of fresh vegetables to to which which butter butter has has panied pur6e of been added, added, or or with with aa purée vegetables. of vegetables. been Croquettes themselves themselves if if made made very very sm small can be be used used as as aa Croquettes ail can garnish for for large large roasts, game or roasts, for for fowl, fowl, game or fish. fish. garnish Recipes for for the the following following croquettes croquettes will will be found under be found under Recipes HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre: hors-d'euyre: beef, beef, brains, brains, cress, cress, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, gras, game, game, lobster, lobster, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, oyster, vegetables, macaroni, foie foie gras, Montrouge, cod, potatoes, printanière, printanidre, various cod, fish, fish, potatoes, various meats, meats, Montrouge, Viennoise, poultry, poultry, etç. etg. Viennoise, Apricot croquettes croquettes 1. I. CROQUETTES cnoqurrrrs AUX AUX ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot (18 oz.) g. (18 apricots in in syrup, oz.) apricots syrup, drain drain dry, dry, and and cut cut them them into into 500 g. (t pint, Bind with pint, scant dice. Bind with 4 dl. dl. (} scant 22 cups) cups) Fried Fried custard custord large dice. (see CUST CUSTARD), flavour with and flavour with kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. (see ARD), and (2 oz.) Divide it into g. (2 portions, roll into 50 roll them 50 g. oz.) portions, them in in flour flour and and in in Divide egg and and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and breadcrumbs. Deep-fry and serve with Apricot serve with Apricot egg (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. sauce (see Apricot croquettes II. II. CROQUETTES cnoeurrrEs AUX Arrx ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Cook Cook Apricot halved apricots in in aa vanilla vanilla syrup. well, and syrup. Drain weil, and fill fill each each balved (see pastry cream half with with 1I tabJespoon Frangipane pastry tablespoon Frangipane crealn (see half flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Put Put 1wo halves apricot halves CREAMS), flavoured two apricot (see in aa coating of cooked semolina and envelop of cooked semolina (see envelop in together and SEMOLINA). Dip fry. Serve Dip in in egg breadcrumbs and and fry. Serve egg and and breadcrumbs SEMOLINA). (see SAUCE) with Apricot sauce (see kirsch. with kirsch. SAUCE) flavoured with with Brie cheese cheese croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE DE BRrE BRIE -Brie (l oz., g. (1 25 g. cup) sifted sifted flour in in aa casserole casserole with oz., li cup) with 25 25 g. g. Put 25 (l oz., (6 tabJerice flour. with 1I dl. o2.,33 tablespoons) rice flour. Moisten Moisten with dl. (6 table(1 j cup) (9 oz.) Brie and g. (9 g. spoons, scant 1 250 g. cup) milk. Add 250 75 g. and 75 spoons, (3 oz., pieces. oz., 66 tablespoons) into small cut into tablespoons) butter, butter, both both cut small pieces. (3 grated nnuto[ cayenne, and aa !ittle little grated Season with salt, aa pinch of utgood heat, stirring until the mixture is is thick meg. Cook on aa good thick enough. Spread it out on a buttered baking sheet and leave to enough. to Cut into rectanguJar rectangular pieces, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, cool. Cut and deep-fry. This creamy mixture is also used to fifillIl tartlets or barquettes creamy mixture This as aa hot hors-d'œuvre. served as hors-d'euyre. Chestnut croquettes croquettes I. CROQUETTES cnoqunrrns DE DE MARRONS MARRoNs -- Peel Peel the chestnuts and them in in aa light and cook cook them light syrup syrup flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Sieve. Evaporate their moisture over heat, add add 5 egg yolks (18 oz., g. (2 g. (18 for 500 and 50 yolks and (2 oz., tf cup) butter for 2J 50 g. 500 g. o2.,2f, cups) pur6e. purée. pur6e makes I croquette. Dip in g. (2 oz., f, t cup) of 50 g. of the purée makes 1 egg and breadcrumbs, and deep-fry in boiling oil. Serve with apricot apricot sauce sauce flavoured with kirsch. Chestnut Chestnut croquettes croquettes II. MARRONS -- Crumble II. CROQUETTES cRoeUETTES DE MARRoNs 500 g. (18 (? (18 oz.) marrons marrons glacds glacés (see (see CHESNUTS). CHESNUTS). Add 4 dl. (;} pint, (see CREAMS) pint, scant scant 2 cups) cups) French French pasty pastry cream cream (see flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Leave Leave to to cool into croqcool and and make into uettes. Finish in the same same way as for Apricot Apricot croquettes. Gruyère cheese cheese croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTFs CROQUETTES DE Gruyire DE FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE GRUYÈREcnuyinr - Mix 100 g. (4 oz., I1 cup) sifted flour in a pan with yolks. Moisten 50 g. (2 oz., {t cup) rice flour, 33 eggs and 2 egg eggyolks. Moisten with 5 dl. (scant pint, 2f, 2-!- cups) cups) boiled boiled milk; milk; season season with with aa pinch pinch of salt, a a small pinch of cayenne, and a a little grated nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cook Cook on on a a good good heat heat for nutmeg. for 55 minutes, stirring stirring constantly constantly to prevent prevent it from sticking minutes, sticking to the bottom of of the pan. Remove Remove from the heat. bottom oz., 1 cup) grated Gruyere. Gruyère. Spread Add 100 g. (4 oz,l Spread out the mixture on on a a baking baking sheet sheet and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into mixture rectangles. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in boiling rectangles. oil. oil. This cream cream can can also aJso be be used used to to garnish canapis, canapés, barquettes, barquettes, This bread, or tartlets. tartlets, which are then browned in the oven oyen fried bread.

and served served as as hot hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'auyre. and Mussel croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE MOULES MouLEs - - Cook Cook 22 Musse) (3| pints pints 4t litres (3-!pints) mussels 4| pints) mussels in in white white wine wine with with sliced litres sliced parsley, thyme onions, parsley, thyme and and bay leaf. Drain Drain the bay leaf. the mussels, mussels, take onions, take them out and dry theirshells out of of their shells and dry them them on on aacloth. cloth. Put Put them them theminin pan with saut6 pan with an quantity of an equal equal quantity of diced diced mushrooms mushrooms aa sauté which have have been been simmered in butter. butter. simmered in which (see SAUCE) Add Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which includes includes the Add the liquor inin which mussels have which the the mussels have been cooked and been cooked and wbich liquor which has has been boiled boiled down. down. Leave Leave to cool. to cool. been Make croquettes, croquettes, dip dip inin egg egg and and breadcrumbs, Make breadcrumbs, and anddeepdeepfry. fry.

Potato croquelles croquettes Potato (Larousse) (Larousse)

poMMRs DE Potato Potato croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeUETTES DE DE POMMES DE TERRE TERRE -Prepare A TOES). potato mixture (see POT Prepare with with aa Duchess Duchess potato mixture (see POTATOES). To To vary vary the the dish, dish, when when served served as as aa hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'uuyre or ot used garnish, add used as as aa gamish, add various various ingredients ingredients to to the the basic basic ducbess preparation, such duchess preparation, as finely finely hashed such as hashed ham, ham, mushrooms, mushrooms, truffies, truffies, thick thick tomato tomato sauce, sauce, chopped chopped onion onion Iightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter, (q.v.), duxelles (q.v.) etc. mirepoix (q.v.), butter, mirepoix duxelles (q.v.) etc. Rice (savoury). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes croquettes (savoury). cnoquerrEs DE DE RIZ nrz -- Prepare Prepare either either with with rice rice cooked cooked in in butter and bound butter and bound with with egg, egg, or or with with cheese cheese risotto. risotto. Make Make the the croquettes croquettes and fry in in smoking-hot and fry smoking-hot fat. parsley and fat. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley and serve serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Rice (sweet). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (sweet). cRoer.JETTEs DE DE RIZ Rrz -- These These can can be be served (4 oz., served as as aa sweet g. (4 sweet course. course. Prepare Prepare 100 100 g. oz., i* cup) cup) sweetened (see RICE). sweetened rice rice (see RICE). As As soon as it it isis cold, soon as cold, divide divide into into portions of g. (2 (2 oz.). 50 g. oz.). Make Make the the croquettes croquettes in of 50 in the the shape of shape of apples apples or or pears, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. fat. Serve fruit sauce. Serve with aa fruit sauce. Rice (strffed). CROQUETTES Rice croquettes (stuffed). cnoqurrrEs DE DE RIZ Rrz FOURRÉES rounn6ss -Divide cooked, cooked, sweetened sweetened rice into into small small balls. balls. Put Put them them on on aa floured board, board, slit slit them them slightly, and fill fill with slightly, and with 1I teaspoon teaspoon fruit marmaJade (q.v.) or with marmalade (q.v.) (see with thick thick French French pastry cream cream (see CREAMS). Close Close the the slit, slit, dip dip the the balls balls in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs, and deep-fry. deep-fry. Rice croquettes old style (Carême's (CarGme's recipe). CROQUETTES cRoeuErrEs DE DE RIZ ntz À ,c, LA MANIiRE ANCIENNE Le MANIÈRE ANcTENNE -- 'Cook 'Cook 175 g. (6 (6 oz., 175 g. oz, i* cup) cup) Carolina rice good stock. rice in in good stock. Mix Mix with with 1I .tablespoon thick -tablespoon tbick Velouté (see SAUCE), Velouti sauce (3 tablespoons) sauce (see SAUCE), 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese, and and aa !ittle little nutmeg. nutmeg. Divide Divide into into 10 l0 portions, portigns, make hollows in in each, and fill them witb with aa salpicon salpicon of game or fowl combined with velouti sauce with velouté sauce which which has has been been boiJed down. Close up the balls, roll in fine grated boiled grated Parmesan and en in in the and th palm of then the palm of the the band hand to to make make the the croquettes croquettes completely round.' Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with finely grated Parmesan finely Parmesan cheese cheese and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley. parsley. fried La Varenne croquettescroquettes - Make Make large, large, thin thin crêpes cr4pes (q.v.) with with an unsweetened crêpe ver the cr?pe batter. Co Cover the crêpes cr€pes with with aa layer layer of of finely chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms which finely which have have been cooked in in been cooked

291 291

CROQUIGNOLLES CROQUIGNOLLES and fill with the chosen mixture mixture (see HOR-D'G,UVRE.,F1ol HOR-D'ŒUVRE, HOI They can filled with hors-d'euyre.) They hors-d'œuvre.) can also also be be filled with rice, rice, semolina, duchess potato mixture, macaroni, noodles, nood les, etc.

sauce. Roll up, cut and combined with thick tomato sauce. butter and into into slices, slices, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. Garnish Garnish with fried fried parsley. parsley.

CROQUIGNOLLES PARISIENNES PARISIENNES (Patisserie) (Pâtisserie) - Ingredients.500 (21 oz., cups) flour, o2.,2\ gredients. 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4j 4tcups) flour, 600 600 g. g. (21 2i cups) cups) fine sugar, l0 10 egg whites, flavouring flavouring (vanilla, (vanilla, orange orange or lemon zest,liqueurs). zest, liqueurs). Mix half half the egg whites whites with icing sugar. Add the Method. Mix sifted flour, the rest of of the egg and flavouring, flavouring, and mix well. weil. Press Press through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag into into various various shapes shapes on on a baking sheet. sheet. Leave Leave to dry out for for a few hours. Bake Bake buttered baking in a moderate oven. oyen. In In various various regions of of France France croquignolles are are slightly different. different. The The best best known known are are those those of of Navarre in in the Basses-Pyr6n6es, Basses-Pyrénées, which are made in the same way as above the following ingredients: ingredients: 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., 4| 41 cups) cups) but with the sifted flour, 500 500 g. (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2± cups) fine sugar, 7 egg whites, whites, 4 sifted drops lemon essence or powdered vanilla, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy.

Little Liltle duchess duchess potato potato croustades: how to 10 empty emply them using the Ihe handle of sma!! spoon using ofaa small

CROUSTADE (Pie, (Pie, pasty) pa st y) - Dishes made with with flaky flaky or CROUSTADE puff puff pastry, filled with ragottts, ragoûts, salpicons salpicons or other prepara-

Little duchess duchess potato croustades.

pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES

EN

poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE DUcHESSE DUCHESSE - Spread out the Duchess Duchess potato mixture mixture (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in a thick, even layer on a baking baking

tions. Croustades are also made with with bread which is is hollowed hollowed Croustades out; out, brushed brushed with with egg egg and deep-fried, then then filled fi lied with various pur6es purées (meat, fowl, fish, shellfish, or vegetable). vegetable). Bread croustade. croustade. cRousrADE CROUSTADE DE pAIN PAIN DE MIE - Made with inches) thick and trim to the stale bread. Cut a slice 5 cm. (2 inches) desired shape. shape. Decorate with knife-cuts knife-cuts in a a pattern. pattern. Cut desired round the top with the point of the knife knife to mark the lid. round fat until golden. Drain, and carefully prise prise off Fry in deep fat the marked marked lid. Iid. Remove Remove the crumb crumb from from the the inside, inside, and line the with with a thin layer of of forcemeat. Leave Leave for a few moments at the open door door of a a warrn warm oven. oyen. Fill the croustade with a the ragoût. All Ali the the fillings given for timbales (q.v.) and and vol-auvol-auragoitt. (q.v.) can be be used. vent (q.v.\ vent Little croustades croustades (hot). pErrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES (culunrs) (CHA UDES) Line tartlet tartlet moulds mou Ids with a a sweet pastry pastry dough dough (shortcrust (shortcrust with with I1 egg and a little sugar added). Bake the tartlets tartlets blind,

sheet, and leave to cool. cool. Cut Cut into croustades with aa pastrycutter, dip in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and finish in the same same way as Lillie noodle croustades (see below). as for Little Little Little noodle noodle croustades croustades (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). pErrrES PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE NourLLEs NOUILLES -'Prepare - 'Prepare a a noodle paste with with 12 egg yolks (see NOODLE). NOODLE). Roll Roll out out the paste and cut into narrow strips. Boil for a few minutes in salted salted water. Drain the noodles noodles and saut6 sauté them in 100 100 g. (4 oz., oz., i c.rp) cup) butter butter and a little httle salt. Pour them into a large saut6 sauté pan and spread them out to a depth of of 6 cm. (2] (2! inches). 'When 'When they they are are cold, cold, turn turn them them onto onto a a slab slab and and cut croustades croustades with a pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Mark lids lids with with a smaller-size smaller-size pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, and fry in deep deep fat. Drain, remove remove the lids and remove the centres, centres, leaving only a a thin thin casing. casing. Fill with a salpicon.' salpicon.' Little rice croustades. pETrrEs PETITES cRousrADFs CROUSTADES DE Rrz RIZ - Made with with rice rice cooked cooked in stock, stock, left to cool, cool, and cut cut into into shapes shapes with a pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, in the same same way as Little Lillie noodle croustades. Little Little semolina semolina croustades. croustades. prrrrns PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE DE sESEMoULEMOULE - The The same same as Little Lill le noodle croustades, using using semolina semohna cooked in stock. When quite cold, the semolina semolina can be combined with egg yolks. Little vermicelli vermicelli croustades. croustades. pETrrEs PETITES cRousrADEs CROUSTADES DE Little VERMICELLE VERMICELLE - The The same same as as Little Lillie noodle noodle croustades, using vermicelli vermicelli cooked in stock or plain plain water. wa ter.

i

CROOTES CROÛTES -- Different preparations preparations are designated designated under this this name, name, some sorne made made of of bread, some sorne of brioche dough or other types types of of bread dough. They are used used either with soups other hors-d'œuvre. or as hors-d'uuvre.

Croustade Croustade made made from from aa bread bread roll roll

Croûtes made made of of bread bread and served as a sarnish garnish are are usuallv usually Crofftes croûtons. called cro0tons. CROÛTES FOR SOUP. cRoOTEs CROÛTES A À poucr POTAGE-CROOTES Crofftes Croûtes for croiite croûte au pot pot -- Divide Oivide a a French loaf Qfl,fite) (flûte) into into S-crn. 5-cm. (2 inch) inch) slices, slices, cut each each in half half lengthwise, Iengthwise, remove remove the soft part, part, and dry the crusts crusts in a slow slow oven. oyen. the

Alternatively, sprinkle sprinkle them with the fat from the the pot-aupot-auand bake feu aDd bake them them in in the the oven oyen until golden. fea

Diablotins. cRoOrEs CROÛTES Drrgs DITES DrABLorrNs DIABLOTINS - Cut Cut a French loaf loaf Diablotins. into slices slices 66 to to 88 mm. mm. (* (j inch) inch) thick. thick. Cover Coyer with with thick thick Bdchamel Béchamel into sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which grated cheese seasoned with aa little cayenne has has been been added. added. Sprinkle with with cheese cheese and in the oven. oyen. brown in croûtes. cRo0rEs CROÛTES FARcTES FARClES - Cut a French loaf loaf into Stuffed croiites.

Hollowed-out Joaf of bread for for makine making aa croustade croustade Hol!owed-out loafofbread

292

CROOTES CROÛTES

Preparation ofcrottes Preparation of croûtes (Inroussel (Larousse)

(] inch) Crottes dorées dor6es -- Cut stale brioche into slices I1 cm. ct Croûtes cold thick. Soak the slices Id sweetened milk flavoured with slices in co vanilla, then in clarified vanilJa, then in slightly sweetened egg, egg, and cook in (See below, butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with vanilJa vanilla sugar. butter. sugar. (See below, Golden croûtes.) croittes.) Fruit croûtes. crofftes. CROÛTES AI-rx FRUITs cno0rrs AUX Cut aa stale Fruit FRUITS -- Cut stale savarin (q.v.) into ({-inch) slices, slices, place on aa baking (g.~.) into. }-cm. place on baking sheet, ]-cm. Cl-inch) glaze in the oven. and glaze sprinkle wlth with fine sugar, spnnkle sugar, and of white bread into a conical shape, fry it, and Cut a piece ofwhite place it savarrn slices place it in in the the centre centre of aa dish. Arrange the dish. Arrange the savarin slices alternating them with pineapple slices which round it, alternating which have been cooked in been in syrup. quartered pear and apple slices arrange slices in syrup Cook guartered syrup and arrange round the them the cone. cone. Fill this border with with a them round FiJI the inside of this mixture fruits which which have of fruits been cooked syrup and mix.ture of have been cooked in in syrup drained. Decorate with with preserved cherries and and lozenges of draIned. preserved cherries quartered preserved preserved apricots, angelica, guartered apricots, oranges oranges preserved angelica, in brandy, and halved halved almonds. almonds. Stick in brandy, and Stick aa skewer (attelet) decorated with preserved fruits into the central cone. decorated Heat i~ in aa very moderate oven, and when oven, and when ready Heat ready to to serve, (see SAUCE) cover wlth with Apricot sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with cover Apricot sauce kirsch. Serve with more of the the sauce. sauce. Other fruits cooked in syrup may m?y be used. pnns ÀA LA crofttes. PAINS Golden croûtes. LA ROMAINE RoMATNE DITS Drrs AUSSI Aussr CROÛTES Golden cRoOrEs (9 oz.) g. (9 DORÉES -- Ingredients. oonfrs Ingredients. 250 250 g. oz.) stale stale brioche, brioche, -jI litre (a oz.,} pint,2l g. (4 125 g. (scant piot, 2~ cups) milk, milk, 100 g. oz., I cup) butter, -125 (4 o2.,1~ cup) cop) fine sugar, ~I vanilla vanilla bean, 2 eggs. (~oz., Method. Cut the brioche into thick slices and soak them in which has has been milk which the sugar been boiled with the sugar and and vanilla and left to cool. Dip the in the the eggs, which the slices, slices, one at aa time, in have been beaten with with aa little fine fine sugar, and fry in butter. have been fry in sugar, and When are golden, drain sides are drain the slices and and sprinkle When both both sides the slices with the rest of of the sugar. Cro0tes with cno0rts AU lu truroins Croûtes with Madeira. Madeira. CROÛTES MADÈRE -- Made Made of savarin and and pineapple, like like Fruit slices of savarin Fruit croûtes. croittes. Fill Fill the (q.v.) of fruits cooked en salpicon (g.v.) m compote to centre with aa salpicon have been sultanas and and raisins that which which have been added added currants, sultanas lukewarm water. in lukewarm have been washed and and left left to to swell in (see SAUCE) Apricot sauce sauce (see with Apricot SAUCE) Cover the croûte Cover the cro0te with of this sauce. sauce, flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Serve with a little more more ofthis into l-cm. Montrnorency -- Cut Cut aa stale Croûtes brioche into Crofttes Montmorency stale brioche (|-inch) thick half moons. and shape them into ct-inch) into half moons. slices, and shape them thick slices, Sprinkle baking sheet. Sprinkle with sugar and glaze in the oven on a baking of Frangipane Cover each slice with a thin layer of Frangipane pastry cream and arrange arrange (see CREAMS) flavoured with cherry brandy, and crown, setting setting'them in the them the form fonn of aa crown, them very them on on aa dish dish in close together. cherries Fill FiJI the centre of the crown with a dome of stoned cherries and drained. vanilla syrup syrup and which have been been cooked cooked in in aa vanilla which have with preserved cherries, cherries, Decorate the crown with the border of the the crown almonds. Cover Cover with with redangelica lozenges lozenges and and halved angelica halved almonds. currantjelly currant jelly laced with cherry brandy, and serve with a little of this sauce. Croûtes la normande -- Glaze slices of stale brioche with i lrr Cro0tes à

(1+ inches) cm. (I~ slices 4 cm. incbes) thick. thick. Take out three-quarters three-guarters of the the part, and soft part, and dry dry the crusts in soft the crusts in the oven. Stuff them with the oven. chopped or sieved. sieved vegetables. Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over them a little httle melted butter butter and brown in the the oven. Serve as an accompaniment to soup.

CROOTES FOR FOR HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE or CROÛTES OT SMALL SMALL ENpouR HORS-D'œuvRE pETrrES E:-.ITRÉES TREES. CROÛTES cno0rns POUR TRÉES. HoRS-D'c,uvRE OU ou PETITES nNrn6ns -into 2~-cm. 2t-cm. Small croustades croustades made with stale cut into bread, cut Small made with stale bread, (l-inch) thick slices. Press a small pastry-cutter (I-inch) pastry-cutter half-way half-way into the slices to mark the lids. portions, fill. Fry the croûtes, crofites, drain, remove rem ove the incised portions, fil!. grated cheese. CROÛTES FRoMAGE GRATIcRo0rES AU Croûtes AU FROMAGE Crottes with grated (*-inch) slices from a stale loaf loaf and trim into l'rÉE -- Cut 2-cm. (l-inch) Nsr until they are golden. oval oval shapes. Fry in butter untiJ sauce,boil bdchamel sauce, Add grated cheese and thick cream to béchamel boil and pour over the croûtes. cro0tes. Put aa thin slice of down, thin slice down, sieve, sieve, and over, and and Gruydre on crotte, pour sorne some melted butter over, Gruyère on each each croûte, brown in aa hot oven. cHAMpIcNoNS -AUx CHAMPIGNONS Croûtes with mushrooms. mushrooms. CROÛTES cRotTEs AUX Cro0tes with are used used as as aa stuffing for Mushrooms prepared àd la la crème crime are Mushrooms (q.v.) --- a round open brioche croûtes galelle (g.v.) cro0tes in tbe form of of a galette the fonn puff pastry. is hollowed The croûte crotte is out, tart made with hollowed out with puff tart made flastry. The and filJed filled with Mushrooms buttered, browned in in the oven, and Mushrooms ~it buttered. (see MUSHROOMS). la In crème crime (see MUSHROOMS). The croûtes cro0tes are served hot. la Nantua -- Fry Fry small rectangles of of bread bread in Croûtes Crofttes àir la small rectangles Bichamel sauce and cover with Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) combutter, and Cr ayfish buller but t er (see BUTTER). Add peeled bined bined with a little Crayfish which more and cover with aa cream cream sauce sauce to which crayfish tails, tails, and has been added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fine breadcrayfish been added. fine breadcrayfish butter has quickly melted butter, and and brown guickly crumbs, pour over a little melted ~rumbs, the crayin aa very hot oven. can be In be substituted for the oven. Shrimps can fish. with Croûtes reine -- Cover slices of th a pur6e purée Crottes à of fried bread wi ir la reine cooked àd la crème. Sprinkle with fine of fowl cooked fine breadcrumbs, crime. Sprinkle and brown in aa hot oven. pour over aa little melted melted butter, and reine,but as Croûtes Crofttes à d la reine, Croûtes but Saint-Hubert - The same as Cro0tes Saint-Hubertpur6e of fowl with aa game pur6e replace the purée purée which has been combined with concentrated game stock. gratinees with Crofites gratinées with trufHes. truffies. CROÛTES cRoOrEs GRATINÉES Croûtes cRarrNErs AUX tux TRUFFES TRUFFES - Cut cleaned, peeled truffies in in thick slices, season pepper and dip in melted slices, and pepper melted butter. Set these slices, with salt and have been been lightly overlapping, on on slices slices of of bread overlap~ing, bread that that have cooked In in butter. and pour cooked butter. SprinkJe Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and over aa few drops of of melted butter. Brown in a very hot oven. Cro0tes with trufres. AUx TRUFFES TRUFFES -cRo0res AUX Made like Croûtes truffles. CROÛTES - Made Crotttes with mushrooms mushroons using truffies prepared Croûtes prepared àd la crème. crime.

FOR MIXED CROOTES FOR cno0tTs PoUR CROÛTES MIXED ENTREES. ENTRÉES. CROÛTES POUR eNrRErs MIxrEs are made made of pastry or puff pastry ENTRÉES MIXTES -- These are left-overs, in way as as for aa pastry case. case. Cook the in the the same same way preparation indicated cases blind, with the in the cases blind, and indicated in and fill fill with the preparation recipe. pouR ENTREMETSENTREMETs CROÛTES cnoorBs POUR CROOTES FOR DESSERTS. CROÛTES 293 293

CROOTON CROÛTON CRU -- The soil in which aa plant or aa fruit has has grown. This This applies particularly to vines.

as for sugar, cover coyer with a a thick thick puree purée of apple apple prepared as for Apple Apple charlotte, (see (see CHARLOTTE) and and finish finish with with thick cream. Arrange on a dish in the shape of a crown. crown. Fill Fill the centre centre with quartered apples apples cooked in syrup flavoured f1avoured with vanilla, flavoured vanilla, and cover coyer with Apple sauce sauce (see SAUCE) f1avoured with with Calvados. Serve Serve with this sauce. sauce.

porridge made CRUCHADE -- A A kind kind of porridge made with with maize CRUCHADE maize ftour flour great similarity to and milk It has has aa great or water. and milk or water. It to miliasse miliasse or millat, made in the south-west and also also to polenta, millat south-west of France; and (See MILlASSE.) made in the south-east in Italy. (See and in made'in south-east and MILIASSE.)

CROOTON CROCrTON - End of of a long loaf. loar. Also diced bread bread fried in butter, butter, servpd serv:ed as an accompaniment accompaniment to soup. soup. Bread Bread croiitons. croûtons. cRo0roNs CROÛTONS EN pAIN PAIN DE MIE - Slices Slices cut from aa stale white white loaf loaf which are fried in butter, butter, grilled, or dried in in the the oven. oyen. Except Except for large large cro0tons croûtons used used under under game, cro0ton-supports croûton-supports are not considered edible. Their only r6le rôle is is to to support large large hot or cold joints joints in order to be able to display the the various various garnishes gamishes round round them. them. All Ali excessive excessive trimmings trimmings should be be avoided in these arrangements, which should be be simple in in order order to to be be effective. effective.

Food eaten raw. Man Man is CRUDITES -- Food eaten raw. is the CRUDITÉS the only only living creature to foods. Children, however, have to use use cooked foods. have an Children, however, innate for unripe innate taste taste for for raw raw vegetables and and even even for unripe fruit, fruit, part of which indicates that that raw food food should be be an essential part man's diet. die!. The indigestibility of crudités The is caused cruditds is caused by by the the way way they they grated, are are sometimes sometimes presented; served served finely finely chopped chopped or or grated, weil, they are perfectly digestible. and chewed well, pleasant to eat raw, or are only really Sorne foods are not pleasant Some when they they are are cooked. edible when instance, nearly edible cooked. Meat, Meat, for for instance, needs to to be be masked masked in in various ways always needs in order ways in order to to be people even eaten raw, and is distasteful to to many people even then. then. On never have the flavour the other hand, aa cooked oyster can can never the f1avour of an uncooked one, and this holds holds good for salads of salads and fruit. Gastronomes can see another advantage advantage in crudités. cruditis. Since their food food value value is is generally minimal, they they are their are useful useful for allaying the the first first pangs pangs of of hunger hunger without without spoiling allaying spoiling the appreciation of the remainder remainder of the meal; on the contrary, appreciation contrary, they rather rather enhance the main meal. Thus the perils of overgood food so often often menace those those who who love good food are eating that so avoided.

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(V.S. Castor set). rvrfNacinn -- Table-set CRUET STAND (U.S. set). MÉNAGÈRE Table-set of bottles and and jars of of glass, porcelain or metal, met al, set consisting of base. in a base.

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CRUSH. EcusrR ÉCRASER -- To flatten f1atten and break aromatic aromatic seeds, CRUSH. seeds. or

bread which which has been been baked baked hard hard in the oyen bread oven and is intended

for breadcrumbs. CRUSTACÉS - Animals, Animais, usually usually aquatic, CRUSTACEANS. cnusucfs with a a hard, hard, shelly shelly crust crust and and jointed jointed extremities. extremities. Some Sorne with

Bread cro0tons croûtons Bread

species are used used in cooking, cooking, e.g. crabs, crayfish, lobsters, lobsters, etc. species Croûtons for for garnishes. garnishes. cRo0roNs CROÛTONS pouR POUR cARNrruREs GARNITURES Crottons

For the various various dishes made with these different shellfish For shellfish see see recipes under their names. recipes SheJlfish have a firm, close-grained close-grained flesh ftesh and an agreeable agreeable Shellfish taste, but but are not easy to digest. digest. They have a a reputation as as taste, very strong condiments aphrodisiacs, no doubt due to the very which they they are often flavoured. f1avoured. with which

--

Croûtons made made of ofwhite bread cut cut in in different different ways, ways, often often in in Cro0tons white bread the form form ofhearts. of hearts. They They are are cooked cooked in in oil or or butter butter and are are the used to to garnish gamish various various dishes dishes which which are are presented presented in in sauce, sauce, used as blanquette blanquette de de veau, veau, civet, civet, chicken chicken fricassie, fricassée, chicken chicken su ch as such Croûtons used used to to garnish garnish salmis salmis are are usually usually Marengo, salmis. salmis. Crofitons Marengo, (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). CrotCroûcovered with with riàgratinforcemeat covered gratinforcemeat (see tons cut cut in in the the form form of ofdents dents de de loup loup (wolves'teeth) (wolves' teeth) are are used used to to tons garnish garnish spinach spinach and and other other vegetable vegetable dishes. dishes. Those Those cut in in shapes are are used used for for fish fish prepared prepared dà la la normande. normande. lozenge shapes lozenge Crofitons for for scrambled scrambled eggs eggs or or omeleffes. omelettes. cnoOrous CROÛTONS poun POUR Crottons OEUFS BRounr.Es BROUILLÉS ou OU oMELETTE OMELETTE -- These These are are made made of of diced diced oEurs white bread bread fried fried in in butter butter and and added added to to scrambled scrambled egg egg or or white omelettes. omelettes. CROW. consr,{u-The CORBEAU - The meat meat of ofthis bird, except except when when young, young, CROW. this bird, is tough tough and and fibrous. fibrous. Nevertheless, Nevertheless, in in many many forest forest regions regions is where crows crows abound, abound, they they are are used used to to make make aa poor poor soup. soup. where Cuniset-Carnot, in in his his Vie Vie aux aux champs, champs, gives gives aa humorous humorous Cuniset-Carnot, recipe for for cooking cooking aa crow. crow. 'Make 'Make aa good good pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. On On the the recipe Jid of of the the pot pot put put aa plucked plucked crow. crow. After After 55 or or 66 reversed lid reversed hours of of gentle gentle cooking, cooking, throw throw the the crow crow on on the the fire fire and and hours

A crustac€an: cruslacean: crab crab A

enjoy the the pot-au-feu.' pot-au-feu.' enjoy

CUCUMBER. coNconnns CONCOMBRE - Genus of of plants plants belonging belonging to CUCUMBER. the gourd gourd family, family, with with large large elongated elongated fruits. fruits. Cucumbers the originated in in the the north-west north-west of of India, where where they they have have been been originated cultivated in Hindustan Hindustan for three three thousand thousand years. They also cultivated grow in in aa wild wild state. state. There are are aa large number number of of species, species, grow white or or green, green, with with smooth smooth or or rough rough skin, skin, early early or or late laIe white

CROWN. couRoNNE COURONNE -- Method Method of of dressing dressing aa dish dish in in the the CROWN. fonn of of aa crown crown or or ring. ring. Brioche Brioche en en couronne couronne is is aa type type of of form dough-cake made made in in this this shape. shape. dough-cake CROWN-PIGEON (Squab). (Squab). couRA GOURA - This cooked in in the the CROWN-PIGEON - This isis cooked sarne way way as as the the common corn mon pigeon, pigeon, or or squab. squab. same 294 294

CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY fruiting. They are watery and little nutritive are very very watery and contain contain !ittle value. Cucumbers U',", UHI L''"'' 0 are eaten raw in sa lads and are sometimes salads sometimes cooked. When they are are to to be cooked the rather bitter bitter juice should be removed by salting and pressing before before se2lsolnmg, seasoning. ___ :__ andC, VitaminsA it is indigestible, Cucumber contains ,r:,,_~ and C, but Itlsmdllge:stIlble, digestions. and should only be eaten by those with good digestions. in butter. butter. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -- Peel Peel the Cucumbers in cucumbers, eut cut into pieces, blanch and drain. drain. Season, cucumbers, Season, and cook them slowly in aa buttered saut6 sauté pan with the lid on. A LA Cucumberc àir la crème. crCme. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs À n CRÈME cniw -- Prepare Prepare Cucumbers as for for Cucumbers in butter. When the cucumbers as When they are in butter. TnrpP'_I'lIl':l,rTprc three-quarters cooked coyer cover with with boiling cream, cream, and and finish cooking. This This dish also be prepared by moistening the dish can can also (see SAUCE). cucumbers with aa Cream Crearn sauce (see SAUCE). cucUlmb'ers (hors-d'auwe). CONCOMBRES i la dijonnaise dijonnaise (hors-d'œuvre). coNcoMBREs À Cucumbers à LA DlJONNAISE DIJoNNATsE -- Cut two green cucumbers into into slices, LA slices, then cut the slices into quarters. Boil for 2 minutes in salted water vinegar have to which a few drops ofwine have been added. Drain, of wine vinegar cold tap, drain again, again, then put them in aa colander under aa cold for 12 simmer for 12 minutes minutes in with 22 tablespoons simmer in aa casserole with (3 tablespoons) olive pinch of olive oil, oil, 1I tablespoon vinegar, aa pinch (3 salt and and aa pinch of paprika. Before serving serving add 2 teaspoons salt teaspoons Dijon mustard and and mix weil. well. pARgratin. CONCOMBRES AU PARCucumbers au au gratin. coNcoMBREs GRATINÉS cn,qrnss AU Cucumbers MESAN -- Cut the lightly, and MESAN into slices, blanch lightly, the cucumbers into in butter. Put the dish cook them in slices in aa buttered gratin dish the slices grated Parmesan, sprinkled with Parmesan, sprinkle sprinkle with more sprinkled with grated Parmesan, pour over sorne and brown in the some melted butter, Parmesan, butter, and oyen. oven. (hors-d'euwe). CONCOMBRES A LA la grecque (hors-d'œuvre). eoNcoMBREs À Cucumbers ài ]a and cook cook in in aa courtcREceLJE -- Quarter aa large cucumber and GRECQUE bouillon made l| cups) cups) water, water, 1I dl. with 33 dl. (+ pint, dl. (6 made with pint, l} bouillon tablespoons, scant -t* cup) oil, the lemon, a bouquet of of Iemon, the juice of tablespoons, pinch of coriander, celery, fennel, fennel, thyme, and aa good pinch coriander, salt celery, thyme, and pepper. and pepper. Boil for 8 minutes. Drain Drain the cucumbers, cucumbers. boil boil down down the Boil liquor in in which which they have been half, cool, cool, and liquor they have been cooked to to half, pour it over the cucumbers. cucumbers. Keep in aa cool place and and serve cold. jus. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs AU AU JUS Prepare in in the Cucumbers au JUs -- Prepare au jus. few tablespoons tablespoons as Cucumbers in butter, adding a few same way as concentrated veal stock when cooked. cooked. concentrated Prepare in the MoRNAy Cucumbers Mornay. Mornay. CONCOMBRES NA Y -- Prepare coNcoMBREs MOR cucumber pieces in same way as Cucumbers in butter. Put the cucumber dish lined with Mornay aa gratin dish Mornay sauce lined with sauce (see SAUCE). Pour over them, sprinkle with grated cheese, pour over more sauce over oven. a little butter, and brown in the oyen. puRfE DE pur6e. PURÉE Peel two two large DE CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs -- Peel Cucumber Cucumber purée. lengthways and remove remove the seeds. Cut cucumbers, them lengthways cucumbers, split them into in butter. into slices and and simmer in butter. Add half their quantity of with consommé consomm6 or Moisten with potatoes, cut into quarters. Moisten cut into cucumbers and Sieve the the cucumbers drain. Sieve water, until soft, drain. water, boil boil until pur6e into a pan over low heat. Add a potatoes, and put this purée mixture few teaspoons butter butter and thick cream, and work the mixture with a wooden spoon until it is smooth. Peel the coNcoMBREs -- Peel the cuCucumber DE CONCOMBRF--S slrnDr DE Cucumber salad. SALADE lengthwise, remove the seeds, and cumbers, halflengthwise, cumbers, split them in half cloth, sprinkle sprinkle on aa cloth, slice flesh finely. finely. Spread the slices on slice the flesh for 30 minutes. Drain, season season with salt, with with salt and and leave for pepper, vinegar, oil and chopped chopped chervil. chervil. pepper, wth vinaigrette sauce The The cucumbers cucumbers can can be be seasoned seasoned with without first being salted. cucumbers coNcoMBREs FARcIs Peel cucumbers Stuffed cucumbers. CONCOMBRES FARCIS -- Peel cm. (2 inches) thick. Boil in salted water and cut into slices 5 cm. of each slice. for 5 minutes. Drain, and scoop a hollow out of (q.v.) with (3 tablespoons) duxelles duxelles (q.v.) Mix 2.2. tablespoons (3 Mix (9 oz.) g. (9 pork forcemeat. Add I tablespoon 250 g. 250 Add 1 oz.) veal veal or or pork (2 oz., parsley, 50 g. (2 ctrp'S chopped chopped onion which 50 g. oz, tI cup) chopped parsley,

has in butter and cooled. Fil1 Fill the scooped-out has been cooked in cucumbers with the stuffing. cucumbers Line the bottom of a sauté saut6 pan with bacon rinds, slices of and a bouquet garni (q.v.). Set the cucu cucumcarrots and onion and mbers on this foundation and add enough slightly salted stock cucumbers. Bring to to reach reach two-thirds up the sides sides of the cucumbers. cucumbers. coyer cover the the boil. Put a buttered sheet sheet over the cucumbers, oven for 35 minutes. pan, and cook slowly in the oyen cooking liquor and and boil down down rapidly to Strain the cooking to 2 dl. (| pint, pint, scant cup). Thicken Thicken slightly with aa brown sauce (t sauce or (see BUTTER), pour over Kneaded butter with Kneaded butter (see and pour with BUTTER), and over the cucumbers when serving. cucumbers serving.

'V

expression once used used to indicate CUIRE VERT -- Colourful expression to what degree degree certain meats should be cooked to keep them (tris saignantes). saignantes). Nowadays the expression caire bleu. rare (très expressi on is cuire

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CUISINE -- See COOKING. CUISINE CUISINE MINCEUR CUISINE MINCEUR -- A new method of French cooking. Based on principles, it on the classic French the classic French principles, Based it attempts attempts to maintain main tain the the characteristic subtle ftavors flavors without m(;]u1djrlg including the highly caloric ingredients such as butter, cream, cream, oil, and limited quantities. The success of this starches except in very limited ofcontroversy. venture is a subject of controversy. CUISSON -- This term has several meanings term has Cl.JISSON meanings in French. ofany offood. 1. The cooking of any kind of food. Cooking 2. Coo king time. 3. Liquid Liquid IJsed of certain certain foodstuffs foodstuffs for used in the cooking cooking of 3. in the example, cuisson calves'heads. cuisson of mushrooms, cuisson caisson of calves' example, heads. In clear soup. this context the word means stock or c1ear See HAUNCH. CUISSOT -- See

anr CULINAIRE cULINATRE --'Cookery CULINARY ART. ART 'Cookery is an old art,' said the marquis de Cussy. 'It goes back to Adam.' closely bound with the history of man. The culinary art is c10sely asks: 'Does not in fact fact embrace Brillat-Savarin asks: not this this art in embrace aIl all branches of human not the art of branches of human activity? activity? Is Is not the art of feeding oneself one of the primordial needs of man?' oneself For a short short history ofcookery see the entry history ofcookery entry on COOKING. COOKING. cULINAIRES -- All CULINARY MÉTHODES CULlNAIRES Ail METHODS. ufrsoDEs CULINARY METHODS. compliculinary operations, from the simplest to to the most compliIt is rules. It cated, be carried out according to to precise rules. cated, must be advisable to adhere scrupulously to these principles in order preparation of simple as as well well as in the to to achieve achieve success the preparation success in complex dishes. different methods The methods of The culinary culinary rules rules governing the the different order. cooking cooking foodstuffs are listed below in alphabetical arder. cooking DEs VIANDES -- Method Method of of cooking Braising meat. BRAISAGE DES but it mutton, but meat chiefly used for red meats meats such as beef and mutton, meatchiefty beefand used for white meats such as lamb and veal. also be used veal. By can also slightly modifying the procedure it can also be used slightly used for pork and venison. and Large Large poultry is also braised, braised, and the method may be used although, in fact, fish is stewed with a very little for large fish although, liquid rather than braised in the strict sense of the word. interlarded before before being braised; that Red meat should be interlarded is, thick lardoons, seasoned with spices, thick lardoons, seasoned with spices, moistened with is, parsley are threaded with chopped brandy and sprinkled with threaded into chopped parsley it with a larding needle. Large cuts of meat and venison are steeped steeped in a marinade (q.v.) for aa time before braising and and then moistened with a (q.v.) stockpot or braising stock prepared in advance, or from the stockpot even with with water. red wine, marinade and even White or the marinade wine. the water. White or red aromatic vegetables of the marinade should be added to the aromatic stock. Instructions for braising large cu meattare are given under cuts of mea Instructions ts of BEEF. 295 295

CULINARY CULINARY METHODS METHODS Garnishes Garnishes for for braised meat. Meat is usually usually braised d à /a la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, with with carrots carrots and onions added towards towards the end of cooking. Braised cuts cuts can can also also be be served served with with vegetables vegetables braised braised in in stock, stock, stuffed vegetables, vegetables, macaroni macaroni prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc. Braising Braising white white meat. meat. Strictly speaking, speaking, cuts cuts of of white meat, meat. veal veal in in particular, particular, should be be pot pot roasted roasted rather rather than braised. braised. However, However, cuts cuts of of white white meat meat can be be braised braised in the the same same way as as red red meat, meat, but but using using very very little little stock. stock. (See (See below Pol Pot

meat meat is is laid upon upon it or or under under it. il. The food to be be grilled must be basted basted with clarified c1arified butter, oil or fat, and and seasoned. seasoned. Meat should be be gently flattened fiattened and trimmed trimmed before before cooking. cooking. Fish should be be scored with a knife, knife. well weil coated coated with butter and oil, oil, and seasoned. seasoned. Fish Fish which which is rather rather dry has has a tendency tendency

to to stick stick to to the the bars bars of the the grill, grill, and and should should therefore therefore be floured fioured before before being being coated with butter butter or oil. This will form a a covering covering which which will will enable enable the the fish fish to to cook cook without without becoming becoming too dry. Turn grilling meat meat or fish over once once or twice twice during during cooking, cooking, and baste baste frequently frequently with the the butter butter or oil, using using a brush. Grilled food food is is ready ready when when it it resists resists pressure pressure if if lightly lightly touched with the fingertip. Tiny pinkish droplets droplets appearing on the browned surface surface are another another indication indication that it is fully cooked. Grilled white white meat meat should be be less less browned browned than red meat meat and and a less less intense heat heat should should be be used. used. Grill fish fish at moderate moderate heat, heat, and baste baste frequently. frequently. Grill poultry poultry first if if it it is to be be cooked in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. When three-parts three-parts cooked, cover coyer with butter butter or oil and roll in the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as as indicated indicated for Chicken d à la diable isee (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN).

roasting.) Braisi4g Braising large large poultry. poultry. BRAISAGE BRAISAGE DEs DES cRossEs GROSSES VoLAILLES VOLAILLES -Large Large poultry poul try is is usually usually pot pot roasted roasted rather ra ther than braised. braised. Use Use very very little little stock stock in in cooking. cooking. Ctarifyiry Oarifying and enrichilry enriching soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies. jellies. cLARIFTCLARIFIcATroN CA TION DES DES BourLLoNS, BOUILLONS, FoNDS FONDS Er ET crrfss GELÉES -- The The purpose purpose of of this operation operation is is to to make make soups, soups, stocks stocks and and jellies jellies clearer c1earer and tastier. tastier. This This applies applies to to sweet sweet jellies jellies as as well well as as to fish fish and meat meat stocks. stocks. After After clarification, clarification, and enriching enriching with with chopped lean lean beef beef and egg egg white, white, the the soup soup is is known known as consomm6. consommé. Allow Allow 250 250 to to 350 350 g. g. (9 to to 12 12 oz.) oz.) chopped lean lean beef beef to to every every litre litre (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) stock stock to to ensure ensure adequate adequate clarification. clarification. For For jelly jelly stocks, stocks, which are are very very concentrated concentrated in in themselves, themselves, 100 100 to 150 150 g. g. (4 (4 to to 5 oz.) oz.) per per litre litre (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) is is required. required. Where Where appropriate appropriate chopped chopped poultry poultry may may be be used used instead instead of of chopped chopped beef. beef. A A small small quantity quantity of of egg egg white white and and finely finely diced diced vegetables vegetables should should be be used. used. When When clarifying c1arifying sweet sweet jellies jellies (made (made with with fruit fruit and and wine wine or or liqueur) liqueur) egg egg white white only only is is used. used. Clarified Clarified consomm6 consommé and and jellies jellies of of various various kinds kinds must must be be strained strained after after boiling. boiling. Wet Wet and and wring wring out out aa cloth cloth of of closely c10sely woven woven material. material. Fix Fix it to to the the four four legs legs of of an an upturned upturned stool. stool. Under U nder this this cloth cloth place place aa bowl bowl large large enough enough to to take take all ail of of the the stock. stock. Skim Skim off off the the fat, fat, then then pour pour the the stock stock into into this this imimprovised strainer. For For smaller smaller amounts, amounts, lay lay the the cloth c10th on on top top provised strainer. of of aa bowl bowl and and lift lift up up the the corners. corners. Deepfrying. Deep-frying. FRrruRE FRITURE --. Method Method of of cooking cooking used used aa great great deal deal in in household household kitchens. kitchens. Fried Fried foods, foods, well well prepared, prepared, are are much much prized prized by by gastronomes. gastronomes. (See (See DEEP-FRYING.) DEEP-FRYING.) GratinGratin - Name Name given given to to dishes dishes which, which, after after being being subjected subjected to to intense intense heat heat in in the the oven oyen or or under under the the grill, grill, acquire acquire aa crisp, crisp, golden-brown golden-brown crust. crust. To To assist assist in in the the formation formation of of this this crust, crust, sprinkle sprinkle the the food food either either with with fresh fresh or or lightly lightly toasted toasted breadbreadcrumbs crumbs or or with with grated grated cheese, cheese, preferably preferably Parmesan, Parmesan, and and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Gratins Gratins can can be be made made with with either either raw raw or or cooked cooked food. food. The The most most common common raw raw gratins gratins are are made made of of fish fish covered covered with with Duxelles Duxel/es sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE.) SAUCE.) A A recipe recipe for for cooking cooking raw raw vegetables vegetables au au gratin gratin isis given given under under Potatoes Potatoes dà la la dauphinoise dauphinoise (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Fish Fish prepared prepared with with aa white white gratin gratin sauce sauce are poachd poached in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock, stock, drained, drained, covered covered with with white white sauce, sauce, sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese chee se or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned browned quickly quickly in When browning browning aa gratin gratin the the dish dish should should be be set set on on in the the oven. oyen. When aa wire wire tray tray separating separating itit from from the the oven oyen shelf, shelf, or or in in aa dish dish halfhalffull full of of hot hot water. water. This This prevents prevents the the fats fats from from separating separating and and the the sauce sauce from from spoiling. spoiling. Grilling Grj]]ing (U.S. (V.S. broiling). broiling). cnnrlor GRILLADE -- Grilling, GriUing, like like roasting, roasting, isis aa method method of ofcooking cooking by by intense intense heat, heat, the the nourishing nourishing juices juices being being sealed sealed into into the the meat meat by by the the crust crust formed formed on on the the surface. surface. The The fuel fuel traditionally traditionally used used for for grilling grilling in in France France is is small small charcoal charcoal (known (known as as braise'). braise). The The charcoal, charcoal, when when thoroughly thoroughly alight, alight, isis spread spread out out to to form form aa bed bed in in aa grille grille pan pan with with aa wellwellregulated regulated draught. draught. This This bed bed of of charcoal charcoal varies varies in in depth depth according according to to the the size size and and kind kind of of meat meat to to be be grilled. grilled. NowaNowadays days there there are are also also gas gas and and electric electric grills, grills, both both of of which which are are very very good good and and extremely extremely practical. practical. The Thegrill grill must must be be scrupulously scrupulously clean, c1ean, and and heated heated before before the the

Interlarding Interlarding aa round round piece piece ofmeat of m~at

Interlarding Interlarding meat meat. pteulcE PIQUAGE DES DES vrANDEs VIANDES -.- Certain Certain cuts cuts of of meat, meat, such such as as fillet fillet of of beef, beef, leg leg of of veal, veal, etc., etc., are are interlarded interlarded with lardoons. [n with best best pork pork fat fat cut cut into into small smalliardoons. In the the same same way, way, poultry, poultry, veal veal sweetbreads, sweetbreads, veal veal chops chops and and large large fish fish such such as as lardoons. carp, carp, sturgeon, sturgeon, etc. etc. are are interlarded interlarded with with very very small smalllardoons. Interlarding lnterlarding aafillet fil/et of of beef. beef Skin Skin the the meat meat and and remove remove all aIl tendons. Using Using aa larding larding needle needle threaded threaded with with a a lardoon, lardoon, tendons. thread itit into into the the fillet, fillet, following following the the grain grain of of the the meat. meat. The The thread depth of of the the stitch stitch isis determined determined by by the the length length of of the the lardoon. lardoon. depth Each lardoon lardoon should should project project 22 cm. (| (J inch) inch) on on either either side. side. Each Thread Thread the the second second row row of of lardoons lardoons through through the the meat, meat, 2 cm. alternating alternating them them with with the the first, first, at at aa distance distance of of2 cm. (f (~ inch) inch) making making sure sure that that the the lardoons lardoons always always project project over over the the meat. meat. Keeping the the spacing spacing even, even, thread thread as as many many double double rows rows of of Keeping lardoons into into the the meat meat as as its its length length requires. requires. After After the the fillet fillet isis lardoons completely interlarded, interlarded, trim trim the the lardoons lardoons so so that that the the ends ends are are completely of equal equal length. length. Tie Tie the the fillet fillet crosswise crosswise to to keep keep itit round round in in of to be be roasted roasted in in the the oven, oyen, in in aa shape. Put Put itit on on aa spit spit or, or, ifif itit to shape. roasting roasting tin tin fitted fitted with with aa grid. grid. lnterlarding aa fricandeau fricandeau or or leg leg of of veal. veal. Trim Trim the the joint joint as as Interlarding indicated indicated under under VEAL. VEAL. Interlard Interlard as as for for fillet fillet of of beef. beef. lnterlardin~ saddle saddle of of mutton mullon or or roebuck, roebuck, baron baron of of hare, hare, Interlarding of venison, venison, etc. etc. Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated above, above, adapting adapting haunch of haunch the thickness thickness of of the the lardoons lardoons to to the the size size of of the the meat. meaL the Interlarding lnterlarding small smal/ cuts cuts of ofmeat. Lardoons must must be be cut cut very very meat. Lardoons cuts and and aa finer finer needle needle should should be be used. used. Small Small fine for for small small cuts fine 296 296

METHODS CULINARY CULINARY METHODS with butter, on top. top. the meat, meat, fish or poultry, poultry, liberally liberally basted with butter, on of recipes for and recipes Ragotts Ragoûts - Details Details and for the preparation preparation of RAGOUT. ragofit ragoût dishes are to be found under RAGOÛT. meat, in the cooking cooking of of meat, n6rrsslcE -- This is Roasting. Roasting. RÔTISSAGE is used used in game, large fish and poultry, shellfish. and shellfish. poultry, game,

round round portions portions of of meat meat may may be be interlarded interJarded by threading threading the lardoons Jardoons into in to them them in in the form foon of of a rosette. rosette. This method method can also also be be used used with with beef beef and muttonfilets muttonfilets mignons, and for veal sweetbreads. These last, last, before before being interlarded, interlarded, must must be sweetbreads. under running soaked in in water, water, blanched, blanched, cooled cooledunder running water, and soaked Jeft to to get quite cold coJd under under a weight. weight. left Interlarding poultry pouJtry and game. PIQUAGE PIQUAGE DE DE voLAILLES VOLAILLES ET Interlardirg DU DU GTBIER GIBIER - Only large poultry poultry for for braising is is interlarded. interJarded. Singe with with a hot hot flame fl.ame the part part of of the breast breast to be be interlarded interlarded Singe or dip dip it in boiling water to make the flesh fl.esh firm. or Only old game for braising, such as partridge, partridge, pheasant pheasant or Only hazel-grouse, is is interlarded. interlarded. Proceed Proceed as as for for poultry, poultry, using hazel-grouse, lardoons. very small smaJJ lardoons. POCHAGE - Poaching is is a a gentle simmering in Poaching. pocHAcE on the The amount amount of water or stock used depends on liquid. The food to be be poached. poached. food as eggs well as Meat, poultry pouJtry and fish can all aJJ be poached, poached, as weJJ in are poached and meat balls, balls, Mousses Mousses and poached in and and mousselines are little stock. a bain-marie. Sweetbreads Sweetbreads are poached poached in a very Jittle abain-marie. with vegetables, or in poached in a white stock stock with Red meat is poached lamb àd Leg of of lamb boiling salt water, as is customary with Leg boiling as is customary with salt water, l'anglaise (see LAMB). White meat is is seldom poached. But seldom poached. I'anglaise term 'poaching' may be applied to the method of cooking the term'poaching'may preoaring lamb and veal en blanquette. used in preparing stock, Large poultry to be poached is put into cold white stock, as and seasoned seasoned as the liquid liquid brought to boil, skimmed. skimmed, and to the the boil, the very (q.v.).The with pot-au-feu (q.v.). The poultry poultry is is then simmered very then simmered in the be stuffed can be stuffed or for poaching can the stock. Poultry for slowly in lardoons or or not, and trussed. It be larded with best best lardoons larded with It can can be not. and trussed. the into the studded cut into ham, tongue tongue or truffies cut with pieces of ham, studded with shape pegs. To protect the while cooking, To protect the breast breast wrule little pegs. shape of !ittle is poultry should be barded. poultry is whether the the poultry To test poultry barded. To test whether should be prick the thigh. When thejuice out is white, the juice which runs out ready, prick the bird is and untruss untruss the drain and After cooking, cooking, drain is cooked. cooked. After the bird poultry and fried bread, Serve on on fried poultry barding. Serve and remove remove the the barding. surrounded with an appropriate garnish. The The stock, strained stock, strained appropriate garnish. and boiled down to be added to to the the sauce sauce to down and and added is boiled and skimmed, is served the dish. served with the Large fish can be and moistened moistened slices, and whole or in slices, be poached whole are with concentrated fish are Thick s!ices slices of of fish fish stock stock (fumet). Truck concentrated fish (brill, whiting, prepared sole, whiting, sole, fish (briIl, prepared in way. Fillets of of fish in the the same same way. turbot, etc.) to be poached are dish, in aa buttered are put in buttered baking dish, seasoned, concentrated few tablespoons with aa few tablespoons concentrated moistened with seasoned, moistened fish oven. in the and cooked the oyen. fish stock cooked in stock and Poached eggs which aa water to to which salt water in boiling salt are cooked cooked in eggs are few vinegar have added. have been been added. few drops of ofvinegar pan, covered Fish or with covered with into aa buttered are put into buttered pan, or meat balls are boi!ing and very very slowly simmered. slowly simmered. salt water and boiling salt Food principle, such as such as poached on bain-marie principle, on the the bain-marie Food poached mousses. in puddings, etc., are stood stood in etc., are moulds, puddings, mousses, mousselines, mousselines, moulds, baking in aa and cooked cooked in pans half full of hot water, water, and of hot half full baking tins tins or or pans very very slow oven. slow oyen. po6llcn - Slow Pot using aa steam, using by steam, Slow cooking cooking by Pot roasting. roasting. POÊLAGE· casserole with food isis cooked cooked with The food lid. The fitting Iid. with aa tightly casserole with tightly fitting butter have been been which have with vegetables vegetables which or fat, fat, together together with butter or slowly poultry or lish or nsh meat, poultry Pot-roasted meat, in butter. butter. Pot-roasted slowly cooked cooked in must be ready, take take When ready, frequently basted during cooking. cooking. When be frequently basted during itit out (q.v.). in aa cocotte cocotte (q.v.). dish or or in and serve serve on on aa dish of the the casserole casserole and out of Remove for boil for fat, add add wine wine or or stock, stock, boil cooking fat, Remove most most of of the the cooking aa few pour the dish. over the the dish. the liquor liquor over few moments, moments, strain, and pour strain, and Pot pot Brown meat meat or or fish fish to to be be pot Pot roasting roasting àd la Ia Matignon. Matignon. Brown roasted layer of of Matignon Matignon Cover with with aa truck lightly in in butter. thick layer roasted lightly butter. Coyer (q.v.) paper (q.v.) or in buttered Wrap in buttered paper root vegetables. vegetables. Wrap or fondue of root fondue of and with surround with After cooking, cooking, unwrap, unwrap, surround oven. After and cook cook in in the the oyen. garnishes which the the garnishes and pour on stock to to which on the the strained strained stock and pour matignon added. matignon has has been been added. Braising lining aa also be carried out out by by Iining can also be carried Braising àit lala matignon matignon can braising placing pan with and placing vegetables and root vegetables with thefondue of root braising pan the fondue of

internal is that the internai roasting is that the The distinctive feature of roasting feature of The

juices Reculet culinaires Reculet juices are preserved. preserved. lnhis In his Principes Principes et lois culinaires defines the roasting process: detines process: of transmisworks by concentration works 'Cooking by by concentration by means of means of insinuainsinuaof boiling, by means as in the case of sion and not, no t, as in the boiIing, by

ponderable or or whether ponderable agent, whether The concentrating concentrating agent, tion. tion. The The first first and envelops the substance. The imponderable, imponderable, attacks and the driven inwards towards the heated, the juices coating is is heated, juices are driven heat of The heat of the forms on on the the surface. The centre. and and the the crust forms centre, juices sealed in in The juices second. The transmitted to the second. first coating is transmitted fust tissues, by the outer coating, being unable to escape from the tissues, powerfully to to the and contribute contribute powerfully heat themselves, and generate heat cooking of the the whole.' cooking action of of aa naked by the the action roasting: by two ways of roasting: There are two Spit roasts in the the oyen. oven. Spit by radiant heat in flame on on the spit; or by fl.ame oven roasts because substances placed before are superior to oyen an in an cooked in those cooked evaporate freely whereas those an open fire can evaporate an by the the altered by and radically radically altered are enveloped enveloped and enclosed oyen oven are enclosed produced. However, roasts are usually cooked cooked in in However, roasts are usually vapour produced. vapour well These, being being extremely extremely weil gas or ovens. These, or electric electric ovens. coal, gas coal, good results, and they do sometimes sometimes they do produce good results, and designed, produce designed, an automatic automatic spit. spit. incorporate an incorporate

roasted ready10 to be be oyen oven roasted Piece of ofbeef Piece beef ready

The intensity intensity of of the the lu FOUR FouR -- The ndrrs AU oven. RÔTIS Roasting Roastiry in in tbe the oven. When roast. Wh the suit the the roast. regulated to to suit cooking en the heat must must be be regulated cooking heat fuel lowered. With With aa soJid solid fuel must be heat must be lowered. crust formed, the the heat crust isis formed, part of cooler part of the the moved to to aa cooler roast should should be be moved cooker, cooker, the the roast pan ifif necessary. necessary. pan stood in another another pan oyen stood in and the roasting pan oven and the roasting of raised above above the the bottom bottom of be raised roasts to ItIt isis essential for oyen to be oven roasts essential for be grid. Basting roasts should should be pan on Basting of of oyen oven roasts the on aa grid. roasting pan the roasting (see below). below). carried for spit roasts (see as for spit roasts carried out out as knowingwhen knack of of knowing ItIt does when long to acquire the the knack not take to acquire does not take long instructions inin the the the instructions follow the the If inin doubt, doubt, foJlow ready. If roast isis ready. the roast (see beIow), roasts (see below), and and section section on on Average Average cooking cooking time time for for l'oasts look indications. look for for the following indications. the following (beef and perfectly cooked, cooked, aa mutton) isis perfectly When and mutton) red meat meat (beef When red pink blood. In the caseof of pale pink thecase small prick will exude pale blood. In will make make itit exude small prick juice isiscolourless. pork) the Poultry (veal, lamb, white colourless. Poultry lamb, pork) the juice meat (veal, white meat pure whitejuice plate, pure white juice isis perfectly if tilted on on aa plate, perfectly cooked when, iftilted cooked when, reddish areany any reddish long asas there pours As long there are pours out body. As out of of the the body. ground and ground Winged and traces, poultry isis not not fully fully cooked. cooked. Winged traces, the the poultry juice. ItIt should pinkish juice. be game should be game should, asaa rule, rule, exude exude aa pinkish should, as tested redmeat. meat. wav as asred same way in the tested in the same 297 297

CULINARY METHODS METHODS CULINARY game snoliid Poultry and and game snould be be trussed trussed and and bardee!, interbarded, or or interPoultry purpose of larded with with besl lardoons. The best lardoons. The purpose pork of barding with with pork larded fat or fat bacon protect the or fat parts of bacon isis 10 to proteet the delicate delicate parts of the the breast breast fat from the intensity of the intensity heat, and of the the heat, and also also to impregnate the to impregnale the from flesh wilh with fal fat 10 make itit more to make more tender. Barding isis done tender. Barding done by by Resh tying the the fat fat 10 to the with string. the bird bird with string. After After cooking, cooking, the fat isis the fat tying removed. removed. Large cuts cuts of meat are of meat are sometimes sometimes barded. barded. More More often, often, the the Large parts of delicate parts protected with of these these cuts cuts are are protected with well-flattened well-flattened delicate pieces of of beef beef or or veal veal fat. fat. pieces Most roasts roasts should should be be served served direct)y directly they they an~ are removed removed Most from the the spit spit or or the For red the aven. oven. For red meat, meat, however, however, itit is is from advisable to to take take itit out out of of the the oven oven or or off off the the spit spit aa few few advisable quite ready, minutes before before itit is is quite ready, and keep itit hot and to to keep hot in in front of of minutes the open until itit isis ready ready to open oven oven until to be be served. served. While itit is is standstandthe ing thus. meat settJes and is is ready ta thus, the the meat settles and to carve. carve. ing juices, roasting. ~ë)TIs ndus ÀA LA La DROCHE snocrm -- Red Spit roasting. Rd meat, rich in in juices, Spit must always always be be browned browned and and then then subjected subjected 10 to an even even heat, heat, must to ensure ensure that meat is is cooked that the the meat cooked right right through. through. Anthracite Anthracite to gives an an intense intense heat producing flames, and heat wirhout without producing and is is very very gives for cooking suitable for cooking red red meac. meat. suitable For white white meaL meat, the heat must the heat must be be adjusted adjusted sa so that that the For external browning browning and and internaI internal cooking place simulcooking take take place external principles apply ta taneously. The The same poultry. same principles to poultry. tancously. Spit-roasted food food must must be frequently basted. This is done be frequently Spit-roasted with the floating on the fat on the the top of the liquid liquid in in the drippingwirh fat floating juice itself. pan, and and oot not with with the the juice itself. Basting with pure pure fat profat propan, duces aa tender, tender, well-browned well-browned roast, whereas basting basting with the the duces prevents the cooking liquid liquid prevents the roast roast from browning. cooking browning. Gravy of ofthe roast. JUS nOrn -- lt JUs DE It isis essential to extract DE RÔTIS Gravy the roast. goodness in all the in the roasting or dripping dripping pan by immediate ail the goodness dilution with gravy of of a dilution with water or clear stock, and boiling. boiling. The gravy roast completely skimmcd. should not not be be completely skimmed. roasl shoule! The S€!rving serving of of roasts. roasts. DRESSAGE DREssAGE nrs ROrn -- The roast, roast, if it it DES R6TIS The is bird, is is laid garnished on aa very dish and and garnished is aa joint joint or or a a bird, laid on very hot hot dish with picked over, washed wirh fresh fresh watercress watercress which which has has been becn picked gravy is and thoroughly The gravy drained. The separately, but is served separately, but and thoroughly drained. just serving, the cooking cooking fat poured over the just before before serving, rat may be poured roast. and eastem eastern France, a thick In some sorne parts parts of of northern northem and roas!. In pur6e apples and stewed fruit with roasts. of apples and stewed fruit is is often orten served with roasts. purée of These compotes should be be only only slightly slightly sweetened. These compotes and and pur6es purées should Winged wild duck. duck, pintail and teal, Winged game, game, other than wild pintail and tcal, are served canapés or or slices sli.ces of of bread bread fried f ried in in butter but ter and and spread served on on canapis with gratinforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). with rià gratinforcemeat Game Game birds birds are are usually usually garnished garnished with with watercress watercress and halved or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. Orange is is sometimes sometimes served halved or instead of lemon lemon with wi th wild wild duck, duck, teal, tea l, pintail pin tail and and other wildwi Idinstead of fowl. fowl. In is often onen garnished garnished with In England, England, roast roast winged winged game game is Potato PotGto crrps crisps (see (see POTATOES). POTATOES). Bread Bread sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and fried fricd breadcrumbs breaderumbs are are served served in in addition addition to ta the gravy. gra ..'Y. Redcurrant Rcdcurrant jelly jelly and and chestnut chestnut pur6e purée are are often served with roast ground game. game. roast venison venison and and small small ground Average Average cooking cooking times times for for roasts. roasts. rEMps TEMPS MoyEN MOYEN DE DE curssoN CUISSON ors DES ndns RÔTISBeef. Bee! Oven Oven temperature lemperat\Jre 200'C. 200"C. (400'F., (400""F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) except except fillet. fillet. Contre-filet Contre-filet or or faux faux filet fi/el -- Boned, Boned, 20 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l(1 lb.) lb.) plus pl us 20 20 minutes. mi nutes. On On the the bone, bone, l5 15 minutes min utes per per 500 g. g. (l(1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 15 15 minutes. minutes. Fillet Fil/el -- Oven Oven temperature temperature 230'C. 230°C. (450"F., (450~F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 8) l2 12 to lb.); or ta 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1 (lib.); or 15 15 to ta 18 18 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (1 (l lb.) lb.) ifif using using aa spit. spi!. Rib lb.) plus 5 minutes 15 to ta l8 18 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) plus I15 mi nutes;; or Rih - 15 20 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 20 20 minutes minutes ifif using using aa spit. SpiL As As soon saon as as the the meat meat isis taken taken off off the the spit spit itit must must be be put put in in aa wann 30 minutes minutes or or longer, longer, according according to ta size. siu. wanm oven aven for for 30 Under U nder this this very very moderate modera te heat heat cooking cooking is is completed completed and and

juices. rib retains retains ail the rib all ils its internaI internal juices. the (l lb.) Sirloin-- lOto l0 to 15 15 minutes per 500 minutes per plus 10 g. (1 lb.) plus 500 g. l0 mÎnutes. minutes. Sir/oill Sirloin roast roast àit /'anf!/aise per 500 g. l'anglaise -- 15 18 minutes minutes per 15 \0 to 18 500 g. Sir/oin plus 15 lb.) plus 15 minutes. minutes. (1(l lb.) Lamb and and ml/(Ion. mutton. Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature temperature 200~C. 200"C. (400"F., Gas Lamb Mark 6). 6). Mark Baron -- 118 20 minu g. (1(l lb.) per 500 to 20 minutes plus 18 lb.) plus 500 g. 18 min minutes. Baron R to tes per utes. Breast --20 per 500 (l lb.) plus 25 minutes minutes per plus 20 to 25 500 g. 20 minutes. minutes. Breast 20 to e. (lIb.) Leg --20 g. (1(l lb.) per 500 500 g. lb.) plus 20 20 minutes. minutes. Leg 20 minutes per (l lb.) plus Saddle -- 18 18 to 20 20 min minutes plus 18 g. (lIb.) 18 min 500 g. minutes. Sadd/e utes per 500 utes. Shoulder -- l8 18 ta 20 minutes per 500 g. (1(l lb.) to 20 minutes per plus 18 lb.) plus 500 g. 18 Shou/der minutes. minutes. Pork. Oven (400'F., Gas Oven temperature 200"C. 200C. (400°f., Gas Mark 6). 6). Pork. Breast -25 (l lb.) plus 25 g. (1 to 30 minutes per 500 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. Breast25 to Fillet -- 25 per 500 (l lb.) plus 25 25 to 30 minutes per g. (l 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. Fil/el Veal. Oven (400'F., Gas Mark Oven tempcrature temperature 200°C. 200'C. (400°F., Mark 6). Vea/. Breast - 24 to 28 minutes per 500 g. (l lb.) plus 24 g. (J 24 minutes. minutes. Breasl(U.5. tender/oin) Lengthwise cut cut of of chump chump end end (U.s. tenderloin\ -- 25 25 ta LenglhlVise to 30 (1 lb.) plus 25 g. (1 minutes per 500 g. 25 minutes. minutes. mÎnutes Top fou! loin or fil/et 25 to per 500 (l lb.) g. (1 to 30 minutes per lb.) plus 500 g. Top fillet -- 25 25 minutes. 25 Poultry. Pou/try. (400"F., Chickm -- Oven temperature 200"C. (400" Chicken F., Gas Mark 6), 6), (l lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes minutes per 500 500 g. (l l5 minutes; or 20 minutes 15 (l lb.) plus 20 minules per 500 g. g. (lIb.) minutes if using a spit. Duck (375"F., Oven temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), Duck -- Oven C. (375'" F., Gas 15 minutes minutes per g. (J(l lb.) plus 15 500 g. lb.) plus 15 minutes; minutes; or 15 per 500 or 20 (l lb.) plus 20 minutes if using aa spi!. g. (1 minutes per 500 g. spit. Goose -- Oven Oven temperature 190 190'C. Gas Mark Mark 5), C. (375"F., Gas (l lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes per 500 g. (1 l5 minutes. 15 (400"F., Guinea-fowl -- Oven Oven temperature temperature 200°C. 200"C. (400' Guinea-fow/ F .. Gas 45 to Mark 6), 6), 45 60 minutes or 1I to ta 60 min utes per bird; or to 1l{~ hours if if using a spil. spit. Pigeon - Oven temperature (400'F., Gas Mark 6). 6), tempcralure 200"C. 200°C. (4ù0"F., 20 minutes minutes if 20 to ta 30 min utes per bird; or 30 to 40 mi nu tes per bird if using a spic. spit. l1sing Turkey -- Oven temperature temperature 190'C. 190"C. (375'F., (375°F., Gas Mark Mark 5), 15 (l lb.) a bird 15 minutes per per 500 g. g. (1 lb.) plus plus 15 J 5 minutes for a weighing up to or l0 51 kg. kg. (12 (12 lb.), lb.), or 10 minutes per per 500 g. ta 5| (1 (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus l0 10 minutes minutes for a a bird bird weighing wcighing over over 5{ 5~ kg. (12 (12 lb.). Ground game. (400.F., Gas Ground game. Oven Oven temperature temperatllre 200'C. 200°C. (400°F., Mark Mark 6). Hare (baron) (baron) -- 15 to ta 20 minutes per 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) plus plus 15 minutes; or 20 to (1 lb.) plus ta 25 25 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (1 plus 20 minutes minutes ifif using using a spit. spi!. Roebuck Roebuck (haunch (haunch or saddle) - 20 minutes per 500 g. (l (1 lb.) plus minutes; or 25 to ta 30 minutes per 500 g. (1 (1 lb.) plus plus 20 minutes; 25 minutes minutes ifif using using a spit. Young Young rabbit rabbil - 15 15 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. g. (l (l lb.) lb.) plus plus 15 15 minutes; minutes; or 20 minutes minutes per per 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) plus plus 20 minutes if if using using a spit. Winged Winged game. game. Oven Oven temperature temperature 200"C. 200°C. (2100'F., (400°F., Gas Mark Mark 6). 6). Grouse -25 to 40 minutes - 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 30 3010 minutes per bird using a spit. spi!. bird ifif using Partridge Partridge -- 30 30 to ta 45 minutes minutes per per bird; or or 45 to ta 60 minutes minutes per spi\. per bird bird ifif using using aa spit. Pheasant Pheasant -- 50 50 to to 60 60 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or I1 to ta lf It hours hauTS if if using spi t. using a spit. Quai/15 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 20 20 minutes minutes per per bird bird ifif using Ilsing Quail - 15 aa spit. spic. Snipe 5 minutes Snipe - I15 minutes per pcr bird bird;; or or 20 20 minutes minutes per per bird bird ifif using using aa spit. spi\. Teal Teal30 minutes minutes per per bird; bi(d; or or 40 40 minutes minutes per per bird bird ifif using using - 30 aa spit. spit. V[/oodcock Woodcock -- 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes minutes per per bird; bird; or or 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes minutes per spit. per bird bird ifif using using aa spit. ü

298 298

CURNONSKY CURNONSKY ferments. It [t isis aa result result of the casein and ferments. the precipitation of of casein contains varying proportions of butter, depending on con tains varying proportions of butter, depending whether or not the milk has previously been skimmed. When curd is obtained by action of rennet, the curd is obtained the action by the of rennet, the serum serum still contains which can can be con tains aa considerable proportion of casein, which precipitated by The serum by aa second second coagulation. coagulation. The serum of milk precipitated casein. curdled by acidification contains very little casein. as it it is cream. Curdling is is the Curd can can be Curd be eaten as is or with cream. in the manufacture of cheese (q.v.). first operation in

Sautés frying pan, cooking in a wide, shallow frying Saut6s -- Method of cooking In France these portions of food. food. In generally used used for small small portions pans are called sautoirs, sauteuses. sautoirs, plats àd sauter or sauteuses. cooking is done in heated fat, butter The cooking butter or oil. The food is seasoned butter or fat is thoroughly thoroughly heated, it is seasoned and when the butter laid fiat flat in the pan so that it is thoroughly sealed. sealed. and fillet treated in in this way are rump and meat treated Small cuts of meat and noisettes steaks, médaillons medaillons and and tournedos (beef); cutlets and veal sweetsweetand escalopes or veal chops and (mutton or lamb); veal veal chops breads. quickly as as quickly as possible Red meat meat must must be saut6ed as possible in Red be sautéed fresh butter meat can can be saut6ed in in fresh claritied be sautéed clarified butter. butter. White meat These cuts cuts are and, after after sealing, more slowly. and, may cook cook more slowly. These sealing, may sautéed saut6ed with the pan uncovered. uncovered. etc.) is size, pigeon, etc.) Saut6ed poultry (chicken of medium size, Sautéed apply as as in case of The same always jointed. jointed. The in the case same principles apply white meat. well browned on both sides and Pieces oflarger of larger poultry are weil with covered. left to cook further wi th the pan covered. pan and Serving. Sauté taken out out of the the pan Serving. be taken Saut6 dishes must be The dishes as indicated recipe. The dishes are the selected selected recipe. served indicated in in the served as fried bread into shapes. arranged with with pieces cut into shapes. After arranged pieces of fried bread cut has been diluted with cooking stock which been diluted garnishing, the which has the cooking red or white wine, white or brown stock. cream, m, is poured stock, or crea over the dish. given to various ragoûts ragottts where where the Mixed sautés saut6s -- Name given grary is not thickened with fiour. ragoftts, made up of flour. These ragoûts, gravy small pieces pieces of of boned lamb, beef, mutton or veal, are fried in butter, fat or oil. are cooked with various cooked in own stock diluted diluted with They are in their own ragoftts, and liquids, as as with and served with various with ordinary ragoûts, served with garnishes. garnishes.

CURE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. CURÉ

CURLEW. COURLIS couRLIS - Wader, Wader, aa marsh which is is not bird which CURLEW. marsh bird highly esteemed from the culinary point of view. Cooked in rughlyesteemed as plover (q.v.). the same same way as

CURNONSKY -- Maurice Maurice Edmond Edmond Sailland, Sailland, the the future CURNONSKY October 1872. After Curnonsky, was was born l2 Octo Curnonsky, in Angers on ber 1872. bom in on 12 literature secondary school education, he went on to study literature aa secondary at the The attractio'1s attractions of journalism Sorbonne. The speedill' at the Sorbonne. journalism speedily enticed him away from aa university career, and in 1892 he career. and in 1892 enticed him away began to newspaper offices and and literary circles. circles. He to frequent newspaper made friends wherever he went.

long and and spindle-shaped CUMIN -- Plant whose whose long spindle-shaped seeds are and five-sided and dull yellow or 1light ight brown in col our. They are five-sided colour. and spicy smooth or covered with tiny hairs. They are acrid and in taste. and in in the Cumin is for seasoning and the preparation Cumin is used preparation of used for Wild cumin Bread is is also also made with cumin cumin seeds. Wild liqueurs. Bread is sometimes cheeses, Munster cheese. ses, such as Munster sometimes used in certain chee metal in r.c,ssr -- Receptacle Receptacle made of china or metaJ CUP. TASSE in various shapes and sizes, provided with a handle.

fi

EcslNsoN -- Official Official charged with the dut CUP-BEARER. ÉCHANSON dutyy of pouring pouring wine for aa king or other great personage. personage. cup-bearer or bouteiller de France was a The title of senior senior cup-bearer purely honorary one under Louis XIV. XIV. This This officer had had no gentlemen under rus were twenty-four gentlemen his though there were duties though command. commando armorial bearing of this office The armorial office showed two silver-gilt silver-gilt arms of the king, engraved with with the arrns king, supporting bottles engraved supporting the gradually arms of the holder of the fell gradually the office. office. His functions feU arrns into disuse, until until finally they were exercised only only at coronations, ceremonial feasts, feasts, at Communion Supper on Maundy Thursday, etc. The office itself was left vacant. etc. The was sometimes Thursday, vacant. sometimes left The last bouteiller de France under the old monarchy was the de Lamerrnary, Lamermary, appointed in in 1702. marquis de The Echansons de Paris was founded founded after after the The Échansons de Paris was the Second good wine. wine. World War. Its aim is to publicise good

(Ke-r'slone) Curnonsky at 80 years orage of age (KeyslOne) Curnonsky

On the advice of Alphonse Allais, the of one of these friends, Alphonse decided to to choose aa pseudonym. It was the young Sailland decided period of Franco-Russian "Why not Franco-Russian entente. "Why not Sky?" someperiod one suggested. He replied, 'Cur non Sky?' Sfty?' The pseudonym one had been found. had gives the Simon Arbellot, Arbellot, his biographer, gives the following Simon his biographer, life and and career career of this unrivalled princedescription of the life this unrivalled gastronomes. elect of gastronomes. 'Tracing Curnonsky's life through part of the Curnonsky's life through the the early early part century means ostentation of of the the boulevard, bou I ev ar d, century means reliving reliving all the gay ostentation and breathing air of what what is is called breathing again the the perfumed air called la /a and belle époque. ipoque. He He was was to be found found wherever wherever imagination imagination belle to be

CURAQAO -- Liqueur Liqueur made from the rind rind of Seville oranges CURAÇAO and brandy or gin. and

CURCUMA-- Indian Indian plant whose yellowish rhizome has an CURCUMA acrid and ginger. and bitter and smells flavour and saffron and and ginger. acrid bitter fiavour smells of saffron Powdered, the is used in curry powder and and English the rhizome is mustard. clIrr-e -- Precipitate or in milk or coagulum formed formed in CURD. CAILLÉ subjected to action of acidified by to the of rennet or aciditied rennet or by lactic subjected the action 299 299

CURRANT CURRANT His His friends joined joined him -- Maeterlinck in in Vergilius Maro's

triumphed triumphed over conformity. confonnity. P. P. J. J. Toulet and Jean de de Tinan were circle and were friends friends of his; his; Willy Willy invited him him into his his circJe Curnonsky collaborof his favourite Cu monsky was later later to become become one of fa vouri te collaborators. author ,Hors. Everyone knew that the old old master humorist, humorist, author of sa so many licentious licentious novels, had had the knack of surrounding surrounding himself himself with with young intellectuals intellectuals who had had fun fun ghosting for him. pe/il vieux bim bien propre propre is attributed to Curnonsky; him. Un petit Toulet of Maugis Toulet is is supposed supposed to to have have written written aa part part of Maugis en great many minage; and the the two two together together wrote a a great many nowménage; and forgotten works signed which have have a signed 'Willy', 'Willy', the the titles of which strong fin savour: des courtisanes, fin de de slbcle siècle sa vou r: le le Brtviaire Bréviaire des courtisanes. le Mitier elc. Métier d'amant, d'amanl, Jeu leu de prince, etc. 'Curnonsky 'Curnonsky was to be found wherever wherever there there was a meeting of of minds. L6on Léon Daudet, in his Souvenirs, gives gives us a picture picture of him as a regular regular visitor to Weber's, Weber's, joining joining in the debates of Forain, Maxime Dethomas, Adrien Adrien H6brard, Hébrard, Maurice Maurice de Fleury, of Marcel Fleury, while the slight, slighl, vaguely vaguely disturbing disturbing shadow shadow of Proust hovered background. He was also to be found hovered in the background. at Maxim's conversing conversing with Feydeau Feydeau and Maurice Maurice Bertrand. Bertrand. He used to join join Paul Fort occasionally in the evenings at the Closerie Closerie des des lilas, lilas, but but secretly he he preferred preferred the the poetry of George George Fourest fourest and Raoul Ponchon to symbolism. 'One travel and distant 'One day he he yielded to the temptations temptations of oftravel horizons. On his retum he he wrote wrote the account of the African expeditions of of the duc de Montpensier. Montpensier. He was to become a skilful "biographer" "biographer" of of this hunting hunting prince. He moved on to China country left China where where the the cuisine cuisine of the the country lefl an an indelible indelible imprint on his mind; he he proclaimed procJaimed it to be be the best of the world. 'This somewhat bohemian way way of life was, was, nonetheless, nonetheless, marked by a a considerable literary literary output. output. Novels, Novels, short marked by stories, collections of anecdotes anecdotes made made the stories, an an anthology, anthology, collections name a familiar familiar one one in in the press and in the na me of Curnonsky a publishing world. he wrote Une riche nature, na/ure, wor/d. For Dranem he for Charles Charles Barret, Barret, Un homme qui a bien tourni. tourne. 'Writing 'Writing was his passion. passion. And his masters? masters? First FirSI and foremost was La Bruydre, Bruyere, whose whose advice advice he he loved to 10 repeat to his young "If you wish to say it is raining, young friends: friends: "If raining. then say it isis raining." raining." Then Then Anatole Anatole France France (the (the Anatole Anatole France France of or Jacques Tournebroche Tournebroche rather than than of M. M. Bergeret), for the clarity his old-fashioned, old-fashioned, methodical methodical style. I1 have have heard clarit)' of his Curnonsky Curnonsky cry out in indignation indignalion at the the sight of of a solecism. solecism. Language Language was no mere form of of words to to him. him, 'Then came carne the gastronomic gastronomie period, together tagether with princedom dom and and public acclaim. Fifty or so so academies academics and and clubs clubs fought for his presidency and solicited his his presence at their feasts. feaSlS. "Cur" "Cur" had had always loved loved his his food. The Anjou Anjou wine and rillauds of his his childhood had trained trained his his appetite, and the rillauds and while the rue Jacob period-- so discreetly touched lOuched on by Jacob period Madame Madame Colette Colelle - seems to 10 have have been been somewhat somewhat disappointdisappointing in this this respect, respect, the Maxim Maxim and Weber Weber era era followd followed closely closely ing in on its heels. of an an epicure and heels. Later, with with the the collaboration of great great amphitryon, amphitryon, Marcel Marcel Rouff, Rouff, Curnonsky undertook undertook what amounted to Il was to this this cause cause that to a tourist tourist crusade. crusade. It he he began to ta devote devole all ail his time. ti me. I-a Ln France France gastronomique gastronomique (32 (32 volumes, interrupted in!errllpled at the twenty-eighth twenty-eighth by the death of of his collaborator) is a monument monument of erudition, and a tribute to to eollaboralor) is the soil. There are also dozens dozens of cookery cookery the richness richness of our soil. books, Jess a literary 1i tera ry than than aa gastronomic gast ronomic delight. de] ight. books, each each one no no less 'A public public referendum referendurn in May 1927 1927 crowned him him Prince of Gastronomes, Gastronomes, and there Ihere was was no no respite respite for for him him after that. tha\. He He went dünées to light light snacks, snacks, inaugurations inaugurations and and enwent from from disnies thronements, tâte-vins and and barbecues barbecues without without a a break. break. thronements, tArc-vins Wherever he went there there was was a table table laid laid ready ready for him, him, the Wherever he finest flnest wines wines placed placed at his his disposal. disposaI. 'On 23 March March 1928 he founded the Academy Academy of of GastroGastronomes, nomes, modelled on the the Acad€mie Académiejrançaise, fort Yseats seats frangaise, with forty and with symbolic symbolic titles titles ranging ranging from from Epicure Epicure to to Talleyrand. Talleyrand.

seat, Marcel Roufl Rouff in that of Honor6 Honoré de Balzac. Balzac. For himself himself seat, he chose chose the seat of of Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, in whose honour honour he gave gave an address. 'Curnonsky enjoyed enjoyed a a sprightly old old age. age. Honoured Honoured and fEted fêted wherever he went, he had the satisfaction of seeing his young disciples disciples carrying earrying on his good work and and realising the idea that was so close to 10 his heart, that oflÎnking of linking the route to tourism. He died d ied as the ta the interests interests of the good restaurant to of tourism. result of an accident ofan accident in 1956.' GROSEILLE * - There are various variOliS types of of currant, currant, CURRANT. cRosEILLE blackredcurraJ/ts, whitecurranls II'hitecurrants and and black· the best-known being redcurrants, Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are cliitivated in in several are cultivated currants. Red and in regions of France, notably on the outskirts outskins of Paris, Paris, and the Meuse and and Puy-de-D6me Puy-de-Dôme districts. districts. Blackcurrants Blackcurrants are the grown mainly on the COte Côte d'Or. In Dijon blackcurrants blackcurrants are to make make Cassis de de Dijon, an an internationally famous used to used liqueur. liqueur. Red and whitecurrants raw. as a dessert, but whiteeurrants can be eaten raw, a re more more commonly com monly used used in in jellies, jell ies, syrups sy rups and in various t hey are they sweets. Red Red and and whitecurrants whitecurrants are are used used at at Barle-Duc Bar-le-Duc to sweets. ma ke a jelly jelly which enjoys enjoys a great reputation. repu ta t ion. make compote. coMporE COMPOTI DE DE cRosErlrss GROSEILLES -- Wash Wash and Curra nt compote. Currant clean the currants currants and put them in io a bowl. Pour pour over over them rhem a boiling syrup cups sugar plus plus lj 11 cups water) water) boiled boiled to syrllp (2 cups tzt"c. 121e. (250.F.). (250°F.). lel/ies. Currant jam -- See JAM, JAM', Jellies. Currant Curra nt juice for fOr ices ices. rus JUs DE DE GRosETLLE GROSEILLE pouR POUR GLAcEs GLACES Currant STRAWProceed as as for for strawberrv strawberry ice iee mixture. mixture. (See (See STRA WProceed BERRY.) CAIU - Combination of spices, thoroughly dried, CURRY. cARI ground powder, and cooked slowly in clarified clarified butter, burter, ground to a powder, vegetable vegetable oil or or soured milk milk before adding adding the fish, fish, meat, Ineat, eggs or vegetables curried. The curry curry powders vegetables that are to be curried. sold in grocery shops are usually a combination combination of of fifteen Rfteen or twenty lwenty herbs, seeds and spices. Those Those who really appreciate appreciate curry spices to ta go go with curry choose choose special special combinations combinations of spices various sOllle of of which which call cali for for mild, mild, subtle subtle seasonings various dishes, some and others for hotter Orles. The strength ofa of a curry curry depends hotter ones. on how used. how much chilli ehilli is used. The principal principal ingredients ingredients of curry powder powder are are allspice, allspice, anise, anise. bay bay leaves, cinnamon, cînnamon, caraway, earaway, celery seed, seed, cloves, coriander, diU, fennel, fenugreek fenugreek (seeds coriander, cumin, curry leaves, Ieaves, dill, and leaves) ,. garlic, ginger, mace, mustard, nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper (white (whitt! and black), paprika, paprika. poppy seeds, saffron, turmeric, tunnerie, mint, cubeb berries, zedoary berries, sumach seeds, juniper juniper berries, berries, zedoary root, TOot, salt. For the the preparation of different curries curries see see MUTTON, CHICKEN. CHlCKEN. Bichique Bichîque curry curry (Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cARr CARI DE DE BIcHIeUES DlCHIQUIS -- The bichique bichique is is a minute minute fish found near near the island of of R6union. Réunion. It Il is is exported in tins and prepared as follows: Cook Cook a finely finely chopped chopped onion onion in in good good quality quaJity fat or or oil until golden. For a small tin tin of bichique add a large large peeled and seeded tomato cut eut into into tiny tillY pieces, pieces, and and I1 coffeespoon coffeespoon seeded tomato R6union Réunion saffron. Cover. Coyer, and cook for a few seconds. Pound together in in a mortar moTtar some sorne ginger, I1 clove c10ve of of garlic, a sprig of parsley, parsley, and and salt. salt. Mix Mix with with the the ingredients ingredients in in the the pan. pan. Carefully Carefully add the fish. Do not stir stir or they they may may break break as they are to soak for 20 minutes. Cover Coyer the the pan pan are very very fragile. fragile. Leave Leave to and pUI itli in in aa moderate moderalt! oven oyen for for 20 to to 25 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with and put Rice Rice dil la criole créole (see (see RICE). RICE). Bringelle CAJU DE DE BRTNGELLES RRINGELLES -- Cut Cut Bringelle curry curry (Cr6ole (Créole cookery). cookery). cARr some sorne lean lean and fat pork pork into Înto large large cubes as for for a stew. Brown them in fat with \VÎth finely chopped onion. Add 2 teatea· them lightly in well-crushed spoons saffron, parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, garlic, aa piece piece of ofwell-crushed spoons stem ginger ginger and and chopped tomatoes. tomatoes. Slice Sliœ aubergines aubergines into into

300 300

CUSTARD CUSTARD MARROW rounds and dip them in water slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with salt and vinegar. Drain thoroughly and put them in a saucepan with the pork. Moisten Moisten with a little olive oil and cover. coyer. Stir from time to time, crushing the aubergines aubergines with the spoon.,Allow spoon.rAllow 2| 2t hours for cooking cooking on a low flame. Serve when the sauce is thick.

CUSTARD. cniur CRÈME -- Custard is a mixture mixture of of beaten eggs and

Custard apple: a, fruit a. Section Section of offruit

milk variously variously sweetened and and flavoured, and cooked either over hot water or baked in the oven. oyen. Caramel custard. cnirvm Line a CRÈME uourfr MOULÉE AU AU cARAMET CARAMEL - Line mould with caramel and fill it with a preparation preparation of Vanilla custard a pan half-filled with custard (see below). Set the mould in a hot hot water and cook slowlv slowly in the oven. oyen.

CUSTARD MARROW. CHAYOTE cHAyorE

-

-

Vegetable, also Vegetable, also known

in France as that is is the in as brionne, brionne, that fruit of aa climbing plant the fruit belonging to to the the same family as marrows. The belonging as marrows. The custard same family marrow is a native of of Mexico Mexico and the Antilles. Its cultivation marrow notably Algeria. has spread to other hot countries, notably Algeria. The fruit of the custard marrow marrow is aa large green pear with deep ribbing. ribbing. Its Its surface is somewhat spiny. deep surface is The flesh spiny. The flesh is white, firm, homogenous, without smell or too pronounced a taste. It is prepared in many ways. Before cooking cooking it must like cardoons (q.v.), (q.v.), being be blanched or cooked au aa blanc, blanc,like quarters and first cut into quarters and trimmed trimmed into into lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped first cut into pieces. pieces.

':,S'

"ii

-*#. :f.

Caramel custard custard Caramel CRÈME FRIrE FRITE - Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2{ oz., 2~- cups) cups) Fried custard. cRiIrE sifted flour in in a pan with 125 g. (4 oz.,l oz., -t cup) fine sugar, 12 12 yolks, 4 whole whole eggs eggs and and a a small pinch of salt. Moisten Moisten egg yolks, with I1 litre (lf (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) milk which which has been with boiled with with a vanilla vanilla pod. Add 50 50 g. (2 oz., f,J cup) cup) butter. butter. Mix boiled well and and cook on the the stove stove in the the same same way as French French pastr)) pastry well cream (see CREAMS), CREA MS), stirring all ail the time. Spread Spread out this cream on a buttered baking baking sheet in an even layer, layer, about 55 mm. mm. (+ Ci inch) thick, thick, and and leave to cool. Cut Cut into pieces pieces and dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. boiling fat. fat. Drain the pieces, dry them on a Fry in deep boiling sprinkle with powdered powdered sugar. sugar. Serve Serve with Apricot cloth, and sprinkle sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. sauce Vanilla custard. cRiME CRÈME uourEn MOULÉE A À rn LA v.rNrI-m VANILLE _. Dissolve Yanilla g. (4 oz., *t cup) sugar in {1 litre (scant pint, 2} 2J cups) cups) 100 g. boiled milk. milk. Add Add t,! vanilla pod, and leave to infuse infuse for 20 boiled minutes. Pour this, this, little !ittle by little, over 2 whole eggs eggs and 4 minutes. yolks which which have have been been beaten beaten together together in a basin. basin. Mix egg yolks well and and strain. Remove Remove the froth froth which which forms on the surface surface well of the the cream. cream. of Fill a a charlotte charlotte mould mould with the the mixture mixture and and cook in in a Fill bain-marie in the the oven. oyen. Let it cool thoroughly thoroughly before before turning bain-marie out. itit out.

Custard marrows marrows Custard

Custard marrows marrows in b6chanel béchamel sauce. sauce. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES AU BLANc BLANC Custard in the the same sa me way way as as Custard marrows d à la Prepared in h crème crime (see (see below) but moistened moistened with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SA UCE) SAUCE) place of of fresh fresh cream. cream. in place au jus. jus. cHAyorEs CHA YOTES snA.rsfns BRAISÉES eu AU Braised custard marrows au JUS - Trim into lozenge lozenge shapes and and blanch in boiling salted JUs water. Drain. Put them in a buttered pan lined with strips of bacon rind rind and sliced carrots and onions. Season. Season. Cover Coyer with bacon consommé from which not all ail the fat has been been skimmed, a consomm6 reduced to aa and cook with the lid on. When the liquor is reduced glaze add a few tablespoons rich brown brown veal stock. Simmer. Simmer. Drain the custard custard marrows marrows and pour pour over over them them aa sauce sauce made Drain the liquor remaining remaining in in the the pan, pan, adding by boiling down the butter and straining straining through through a sieve. sieve. butter Custard marrows with butter. cHAyorEs CHAYOTES AU BEURRE - Cut BEURRE marrows into into large large lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped pieces. Cook Cook the custard marrows in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for for vegetables vegelables (see (see COURTCOURTin BOUILLON) keeping them them firm. firrn. BOUILLON) put them into a a saut6 sauté pan pan or Drain and dry the pieces, put heavy frying pan pan in which which 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i} cup) butter butter heavy has been been heated. Moisten with 3 tablespoons (scant *J' cup) cup) has

CUST ARD APPLE APPLE coRossorCOROSSOL -- Common Common name na me for for a species species CUSTARD of annona annona and and its its fruit.It fruit. It sometimes sometimes attains a weight of of 4 kg. of (8i (8t to to 99 lb.), lb), though though the the tree tree that that produces produces it is is stunted and bare. bare. The fruit, fruit, which which resembles resembles a large large pimento pimento in shape, has has aa The smooth green green skin with with a few hairy hairy protuberances. protuberances. The The pulp pulp smooth is white, white, compact and full full of of black black seeds the the size of of apricot apricot is kernels which, which, when the the fruit is is ripe, ripe, give give off an agreeable agreeable kernels The taste taste is is slightly acid. acid. When When crushed and mixed odour. The with four four or or five five times times its its volume volume of ofwater, the pulp pulp produces produces with water, the liquid similar similar to to milk. milk. After After being being sweetened sweetened and chilled it aa liquid makes aa pleasant pleasant drink. drink. makes 301 301

CUTTING BOARD BOARD CUTTING (Recipe taken cook inin aa moderately moderately bot hot oyen. oven. (Recipe from the cook taken from the Bulletin de de la la société sociitd d'horticulture d'horticalture d'Algérie.) d'Algdrie.) Bulletin marrows mornay. Custard marrows mornay. CHAYOTES cHAyorEs MORNAY MoRNAy -- Prepare Prepare in in Custard gratin. The the same way as as Custard Custard marrows same way manows au oil gratin. The custard the custard marrows are are arranged arranged in in aa dish layer of dish on of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce marrows on aa layer (see SAUCE), SAUCE), covered covered with with the sauce, sprinkled the same sprinkled with with (see same sauce, grated cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven. oven. gra ted cheese marrow salado salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE CHA Custard marrow Custard YOTES -- Quarter cHAyorEs the Quarter the marrows and custard marrows and cook cook in Vlhite court-bouillon in White court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain Drain and vegetables and slice slice Season with with oil, pepper and oil, vinegar, them. Season vinegar, pepper and chopped chopped herbs. herbs. them. Stuffed custard custard marrows. malrows. CHA cHAyorES FARcrEs -- Halve YOTES FARCIES Stuffed Halve the the custard marrows marrows crossways, crossways, trim trim and and slightly hollow them custard slightly hollow them Blanch in in salted out. Blanch water, drain drain and salted water, and dry dry them. them. out. gently in in butter. Simmer gently When nearly nearly cooked, Simmer butter. When cooked, fill fill them them (q.v.). pork forcemeat with aa mixture mixture of forcemeat and of pork and dry dry duxelles duxelles (g.v.). with Arrange the forcemeat in in the the forcemeat the form form of dome. Put Arrange of aa dome. Put the the gratin dish, custard marrows marrows on custard on aa buttered buttered gratin with dish, sprinkle sprinkle with gently in and melted melted butter, in the breadcrumbs and butter, and and brown brown gently the oyen. oven. prepared in in this Custard marrows prepared Custard this way way can can be be served as aa served as part of as part vegetable or garnish of particular dish. or used used as vegetable the garnish ofthe ofaa particular dish. pork forcemeat, Instead of forcemeat, tbey of pork Instead they can can be be filled filled with with one one or or preparations indicated indicated for other of of the the preparations for various various stutfed other stuffed (see TOMATO, TOMATO, AUBERGINE, vegetables (see AUBERGINE, etc.). etc.).

veal or gently or chicken chicken consommé, consomm6, or or water. water. Coyer Cover and and cook cook gently veal until cooked. cooked. Pour Pour over over them liquor in in which them the the liguor which they have they have until cooked. witb with aa little little butter butter added. added. cooked, Custard marrows malrows ài la la crème. crdme. CHA cHAyorEs A LA r..l CRÈME cntrrap -- Cook Cook Custard YOTES À marrows in the custard custard marrows in the the same same way way as as for for Custard Custard marrows manows the with buller. butter. When When nearly nearly cooked cooked coyer cover them fresh them with with fresh with boiled cream cream and and finish finish cooking cooking with with the lid on. the lid on. boiled pour over To serve, serve, pour over them them the the cream cream in in which which they were they were To cooked. cooked. Custard marrows marrows ài la la créole. cr6ole. CHA cHAyorEs A LA ra CRÉOLE cnEore --Custard YOTES À the custard custard marrows, marrows, blanch in salted blanch them them weil well in salted Quarter Quarter the (4 oz., g. (4 water. Cook Cook 100 100 g. oz.,l1 cup) cup) chopped chopped onions in butter onions in butter water. (half and and oil and half). oil (half half). Add Add 33 tomatoes, peeled, seeded tomatoes, peeled, seeded and and and garni (g.v.) (q.v.) aa minced coarsely chopped, chopped, aa bouquet bouquet garni minced clove clove of of coarsely garlic, and and the the custard custard marrows. marrows. Cook with the !id lid on. Cook with on. garlic, Serve in in aa border of rice, cooked of rice, cooked in in bouillon. bouillon. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the Serve custard marrows with chopped chopped parsley. custard marro\ly fritters. fritters. CHA cHAyorEs EN FRITOT FRrror -- Quarter the Custard marrow VOTES EN Quarter the custard marrows marrows and and cook cook in in White White court-bouillon court-bouillon for custard for (see COURT-BOUILLON). vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and and dry dry them. them. vegetables juice, salt Put them in aa marinade of them in of olive olive oil, lemon juice, oil, lemon and salt and Put pepper. Dip piece in Dip each each piece in aa light light batter batter and and deep-fry deep-fry in in pepper. boiling oil. oil. Garnish with fried parsley. boiling pouR garnish. CHA marrows used Custard marrows used as as aa garnish. cHAyorEs Custard YOTES POUR GARNITURES -- Quartered custard marrows, cooked in butter cooked in GARNITURES Quartered custard part of as part or braised, braised, can can be garnish for be used used as of aa garnish for eggs, eggs, fish, or pieces of meat, fowl, etc. small pieces etc. small garnish eggs or fish, the custard marrows are are When used to garnish cut up into into large dice, blanched and cooked cooked in butter. garnish pieces To garnish pieces of meat or of meat or fowl, fowl, trim trim the the custard custard To in butter butter or braise, marrows into large lozenge shapes, cook in juices of the meat when they are nearly cooked, add the juices they are and when fowl which they are or fowl are to accompany. marrows au gratin. CHA Custard marrows cHAyorEs GRATIN-- Quarter Custard YOTES AU GRATIN Quarter the custard custard marrows, cook in in White White court-bouillon for the marrows, cook for (see COURT-BOUILLON) vegetables (see COURT-BOUILLON) then then simmer simmer in in vegetables butter. dish and and sprinkle with butter. Arrange in aa buttered gratin gratin dish grated grated cheese. Pour melted butter over them and brown in a moderate oven. oyen. marrows à la grecque. CHA i la cHAyorEs,r r.l, GRECQUE cnrcqun -Custard marrows YOTES À LA Dice the custard marrows. Blanch in in salted water and and cook in same way way as as Aubergines Aubergines àd la Ia in aa court-bouillon in in the the same grecque (see (see AUBERGINE). Leave Leave to to cool cool in in their liquor liguor before serving. hors-d'ouuvre. serving. Use as an hors-d'oœuvre. Custard la martiniquaise. i la martiniquaise. CHA csayores Custard marrows marrows à YOTES A À ra LA ulnrnvt{ulIsn MARTINIQUAISE - Press Press boiled custard marrow in a a cloth c10th to water, then pound the pulp together extract the maximum maximum of ofwater, with bread dipped dipped in in milk. milk. Cook finely finely chopped onion in butter, butter, add the custard marrow marrow mixture mixture with a little salt and pepper, pepper, and milk. Smooth the surface with breadcrumbs and

pLANcrrE À CL-IITING BOARD. BOARD. PLANCHE ClJTTING A DÉCOUPER o6coupnn -- Beechwood Beechwood for cutting up groove and board used used for up meat, provided with with aa groove and hole to to catch catch the juices. aa hole

CUTTLEFISH. SEICHE, snlcrm, SÈCHE sitcrs -- Cephalopod mollusc with ClJTTLEFISH. with (cuttlebone), secreting an internaI internal shelJ an shell (cuttlebone), an inky inky liguid liquid secreting an (sepia). The The tough flesh becomes eatable (sepia). tough flesh eatable if itit is is vigorously vigorously was popular with the beaten. It was the Romans Romans and and is is stillliked in still liked in certain countries, notably notably in certain in Spain. Spain. Powdered Powdered cuttlebone cuttlebone formerly used was formerly used as as an an absorbent. absorbent. is prepared prepared like octopus. Cuttlefish is CIIVE --Large CUVE Large tun made of wood, cement or metal in in which grapes are pressed for the grapes are pressed the for wine wine and and in in which which red red wine wine is fermented. CUVEAU -- Small cuve. cave. CUVÉE CWEE -- Product of a particular cuve. A cuvée cuvie can also be a mixture mixture of ken from ditferent of grapes, either ta taken different parts ofa of a large as in the vineyard, as the Bordeaux district, bought from from different different growers under similar climatic conditions, in Burgundy, conditions, as as in or the product of different harvests in the same of different same region, region, as in Champagne and on Champagne opes of Rh6ne. The final on the sI slopes of the Rhône. final result depends upon upon the quality guality of depends vintage and the skilful of the vintage skilful balance mixture. of the mixture.

Cutting board board ((Larousse) Cutting Larousse)

302

t

(4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 g. melted butter, butter,22 dl. oz., *crrp) sugar,5 egg egg yolks, sugar,5 cup) melted

(* oz.) (f pint, seant g. (1 of milk, 10 10 g. oz.) yeast, aa small pinch of scant cup) milk, (1 salt. lemon rind. salt, quarter of the the flour, flour, the Method. Make Make aa leaven with aa guarter Method. leaven with Keep in yeast and in aa moderate warmed. Keep milk, slightly slightly warmed. and the the milk, yeast temperature. the melted melted in volume, mix in the When the leaven has doubled in yolks, sugar sugar rind, egg egg yolks, little at aa time, time, the salt, salt, lemon rind, butter, aa Iittle rest of the the flour. flour. and and the the rest for 55 minutes. minutes. Cut Cut roll out. out. Leave Leave for and roll Dredge with with flour and cloth, thern on on aa floured cio into rounds with aa pastry-cutter, put them th, for 1I hour. hour. temperature for rise in in aa moderate moderate temperature and and leave leave to to rise in aa fine sugar sugar and and bake bake in with fine sprinkle with Baste Baste with with butter, butter, sprinkle slow oyen. oven. jam. stewed fruit fruit or or jam. served with stewed Dampfnudeln are are usual1y usually served Dampfnudeln thick apricot apricot fillod with with 1I teaspoon teaspoon thick rounds can can also also be be filled The The rounds put them them on pur6e flavoured seal, put on aa rum. Fold Fold and and seal, flavoured with with rum. purée join downward, downward, and and bake. bake. the joïn buttered sheet with with the buttered baking baking sheet

Dab

DAB. family, the P/euronectidae Pleuronectidae family, Flat fish fish of of the rnrlNDE -- Flat DAB. LIMANDE (8 and between long, with with scales 12 inches) inches) long, and 12 20 and 30 cm. cm. (8 between 20 and 30 almost as less elongated elongated than file. It isis oval oval and and less as rough as as aa file. the sole. eyes are placed, is coloured, sole. Its right side, where the eyes with head to to tail; tail; from head line running running from lateral line with aa semi-circular lateral its digested. and easiJy easily digested. The flesh flesh is is soft soft and side is white. The its blind blind side is white. The American very different. different. American dab dab is is not very AU (q.v.) are plaice (g.v.) suitable for dab. are suitable All recipes for plaice

plssnNur -- Weed toothed or or pinnated Weed with with toothed DANDELION. PISSENLIT gathered in yellow flowers, fields from from in the the fields flowers, gathered leaves and yellow leaves and varieties, such such as as are improved improved varieties, to March. March. There There are November to plein coeur are cultivated. cultivated. and très tris hâtif, hdtif,which plein which are coeur amélioré arniliord and young dandelion salads. leaves are eaten raw, raw, in in salads. are eaten Tender Tender young dandelion leaves (q.v.). spinach (g.v.). like spinach They They can can also also be be cooked cooked like

DACE. DARD family, fish of the Cyprinidae Cyprinidae family, DARD -- Freshwater fish of the also known lt is gravelet or vandoise.lt is or vandoise. as aubourg, grave/et known in in France as caught in most is rather of central France but it is most of the rivers of leathery to preparod en m mate/ote. matelote. to eat and is is usually prepared eat and DAGH (furkish cookery) of shin shin veal DAGH KEBAB cookery) -- Pieces Pieces of KEBAB (Turkish grilled and skewered tomatoes, grilled and with slices slices of of onions onions and and tomatoes, skewered with sprinkled pilaf of of rice, rice, okra okra It isis served sprinkled with thyme. It servod with with pilaf with thyme. (g.v.), (q.v.), or sorne garnish. some other garnish. DAHLIA -- Ornamental plant, originally originally found found in in Mexico, Ornamental plant, which Dahl of of Antwerp. Antwerp. name to to the the botanist botanist Dahl which owes owes its its name Dahlia to the the Jerusalem Jerusalem and are are similar similar to Dahlia tubers tubers are are edible edible and artichoke way as as in the the same same way in flavour. flavour. They They are are cooked cooked in artichoke in Jerusalem artichokes (q.v.). artichokes (g.v.).

Daïkon

DAIKON. DAÏKON radish which which can can be be Large Japanese Japanese radish oniroN -- Large eaten and cooked cooked radish, or or parboiled and eaten raw raw like the the common common radish, like like turnips. turnips. DAISY. PÂQUERETŒ field flowers. flowers. nAqurnnrre -- One One of of the the commonest commonest field Its young leaves salads. Its young leaves and and buds buds are are eaten eaten in in salads. DAME-BLANCHE (CoH sweet A kind kind of of or dessert) dessert) -- A DAMF-BLAI\CI{E (Cold sweet or Plombières (See ICE ICES.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) ice cream. cream. (See CREAMS AND Plombidres ice DAMPFNUDELN g. (German pâtisserie) pAtisserie) -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500 g. DAMPIIJUDELN (German (18 oz., (18 oz., 4t 4| cups) (4 oz., cups) sieved g. (4 fine cup) fine sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. oz., -tI cup) 303 303

DARIOLE DARIOLE glaze on oven until the sugar sugar forms aa glaze in the the oyen back in on top. top. Cut into sections at once, following the lines marked out before baking. The base of this cake be made made with The base of this cake may may be with flaky flaky pastry (* inch) trimmings. to 3 mm. trimmings. It need need only be 2 to inch) thick -- the mm. (i (f inch) thick; upper layer about 5 mm. mm. Ci thick; or both layers may (f inch). thickness of be of equal thickness of 4 mm. (i Creamfor filling dartois. finely in aa mortar Crearn for filling dartois. Pound finely mortar 100 g. (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 oz., i~ cup) sugar sugar with 100 g. (4 ~ cup) with 100 oz., ? cup) blanched "up) 2 eggs to prevent the mixture almonds, adding mixture from becomg. (4 oz., ing oily. paste, and oily. Soften 100 100 g. oz.,l~ cup) butter to aa paste, add to add to the the mixture. mixture. Add Add also also aa smaU small glass of rum rum and, and, if if (3 tablespoons) French pastry desired, pastry cream desired, 2 tablespoons (3 (see CREAM). CREAM). good cream ground almonds A good cream can be made by by mixing ground can be with French pastry pastry cream, cream, and and flavouring the mixture with vanilla vanilla or rum. rwn. The greatest care must be be taken to seal seal the layers of pastry as the cream boils during layen during cooking cooking and and tends to ooze out.

(Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) Dariole Dariole moulds mou Ids (Dehillerin. Larousse)

DARIOLE Small cylindrical cylindrical mould. The name DARIOLE -- Small mould. The name also applies to the cakes baked in these these moulds. Line with Puff pasty Line dariole dariole moulds mou Ids with pastry (see (see DOUGH) folded folded and and rolled out 6 times. Fill FiU with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see almonds and and flavoured (see CREAMS) CREA MS) mixed mixed with with almonds flavoured with kirsch some other or sorne other liqueur. liqueur. Bake Bake in in a a hot hot oyen, kirsch or oven, and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar. DARI\E DARNE -- Thick slice of of a large large raw fish. This cut used used to be called, a dalle (slab). (slab). Darnes Darnes of of fish can be poached, poached, braised, grilled, grilled, or sautéed saut6ed in butter. butter. This is a typical recipe. Darne of salmon ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON À L'Al.rL'ANsAUMoN A CIENNE - Season with with salt salt and and pepper a a darne darne of salmon cIENNE weighing between between 500 and 600 g. (about l+ 1t lb.) and place it buttered fireproof fireproof dish. dish. Moisten Moisten with I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, in a buttered scant j~ cup) cup) white wine and and the same quantity of concenconcenfish stock. Add a small sliced onion, aa bouquet garni trated fish and and the trimmings and peelings of mushrooms, the mushthemselves to be used Jater rooms themselves later for the garnish. Bring to the boil on the stove, and then place in the oven. oyen. time. About 10 10 Cook for 20 minutes, basting from time to time. ta king it out of the oven, oyen, add the peeled and minutes before taking trimmed mushrooms. Drain the salmon, and garnish with trimmod the mushrooms mushrooms arranged at each end of the dish. Top each mushroom mushroom with a poached poached oyster, decorated with a strip of truffe truffle tossed in butter. butter. Surround Surround the salmon salmon with freshwater crayfish crayfish which which have have been been tossed tossed and and cooked cooked in in a a courtbouillon (q.v.). Boil down the cooking stock of the the salmon and thicken butter. Add I1 tablespoon liqueur liqueur brandy with egg yolks and butter. and and a a touch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Pour some sorne of this this sauce sauce round round the salmon and serve the rest separately. separately.

Dates Dates and date-palm

DATTE DATE. DArrE

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-

The fruit was known to fruit of the date-palm was The

grows wild in the area bounded the Chaldeans Chaldeans in antiquity. It grows by the the Euphrates Euphrates and and the the Nile, Nile, and and is is cultivated in the cultivated in by desert oases of southern Algeria and Tunisia. The male and

on separate trees and and artificial female principles principles grow grow on separate trees female pollination pollination is therefore necessary. There hard and dates, the the latter latter being being more There are are hard and soft soft dates, prized. The best dates from Tunisia, Algeria highly prized. dates come Tunisia, Algeria come from The best western Asia. They are about the size of a thumb, with and western

Dartois (Larousse) (Larousse) Dafiois

yellowish-red yellowish-red skin, and have a sweet sweet flavour. Excellent dates are grown grown in in South Carolina and and Arizona (U.S.A.). Since are a concentrate ofsugar of sugar (73 per cent oftheir of their Since dates are nourishweight is rapidly assimilable sugar) they are full of nourishquantities of phosphorus ment. They They contain contain appreciable quantities phosphorus ment. and calcium and and are rich in in Vitamins A A and and B. B. Sorne and calcium are rich Some made from dates. alcoholic drinks, including brandy, are made alcoholic (dessert) fritters. frittas. Date fritters -- See FRITTER, Sweet (dessert) DATTES FOURRÉES - Stone the FoURREEs Stuffed dates (petits fours). DATTEs dates, and stuff with almond paste flavoured with kirsch or pistachio nut paste. Sprinkle Sprinkle with crystallised rum, or with pistachio sugar.

DARTOIS -- Small Small snacks served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre or

light light main main course. course. For For recipes recipes see see HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hors-d'auvre. hors-d'œuvre.

DARTOIS @f,tisserie) (pâtisserie) -- Make Make two two layers of Puff pasty pastry (see (see DOUGH). Fill Fill the the middle of one one layer layer with almond almond cream and cover coyer with the second layer. Brush the top with egg, leaving the edges untouched untouchcd or the pastry will wiil not rise

DAUBE -- Method cooking meat. Although this method DAUBE Method of cooking used for other meat, as as well weil as poultry and game, the can be used qualification means a cut term daube without without qualification cut of ofbeef beef cooked term daube en daube, that is, is, braised in in rod rcd wine wine stock well well seasoned seasoned en with herbs.

baking. during baking. Lightly mark dividing lines at evenly spaced intervals to indicate be cut cut later. Bake Bake in a moderate indicate where where the pastry pastry is to be oven, oyen, then then sprinkle sprinkle the top lightly lightly with icing sugar sugar and put

304 304

DECANT DECANT

Stuffed tes dates Stuffed da (Scarnati) (Scarnori)

The name daube àd l'avignonnaise I'avignonnai,te means aa dish made with in red red wine. mutton cooked in For of daube see BEEF, BEEF. MUTTON, MUTTON. daube see kinds of For different different kinds TURKEY, TURKEY, PHEASANT. PHEASANT. r

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(French GOl'ernmem Dauphin6 (French Gorernment Tourisr Tourist Office) Office) Dauphiné

(especially peaches peaches and and and fruit fruit trees trees (especially vegetables and spring spring vegetables famous Rhône Rh6ne bear the the famous its sunlit sunlit slopes slopes bear apricots), and and its apricots), found. trees are are to to be be found. south, olive olive trees vineyards. In In the the extreme extreme south, vineyards. great pasture for rearing great rich pasture for rearing of the Alps Alps provide rich The The valleys of yield excellent Here, too, too, are are excellent milk. milk. Here, which yield numbers of of cows cows which numbers gathered. are gathered. groves from chestnuts are Lyons chestnuts from which which the the Lyons the the groves yield an an abundant abundant crop. crop. which yield hazelnut trees trees which There There are are also also hazelnut prized. The pastures isis highly prized. The honey From from these these upland upland pastures The The honey places provide trout crayfish. In In sorne some places trout and and crayfish. lakes and rivers provide lakes and rivers common in in the the woods. woods. mushrooms are are common trufftes found, and and mushrooms are found, truffies are shows aa marked marked Regional cookery cookery shows CuHnary Culinary speciaHties specialities -- Regional gratin dishes. not only only with with These are are made made not predilection for predilection for gratin dishes. These porridge, potatoes but chopped porridge, also with with chopped macaroni and potatoes but also macaroni and crayfish tails. tails. cipes and and crayfish white swedes, cèpes white beet, beet, swedes, Vienne enjoy enjoy aa and those those of of Vienne Daubes Daubes are favourite dishes dishes and are favourite this specialities of of this the specialities Among the considerable reputation. Among considerable reputation. quails; grillades marinière; thrush difarde; baby baby qua region ils ; thrush marinidre; défarde; region are are grillades pdtis des salmis ofthrush; of thrush; des Alpes; Alpes; salmis withjuniper thrush pâtés berries; thrush with juniper berries; pickled truffies de Nyons; Nyons; and ar'd pickled lhrush; truffies de pickled the excellent excellent pickled thrush: the quails. Chabeuil Chabeuil quails. provide milk pastures provide milk alpine pastures The farms in in these these alpine The dairy dairy farms Saintwhich cheeses: Sassenage, Sassenage, Saintto manufacture manufacture cheeses: used to which isis used and the the white Marcellin, Briangon and white Pelvoux, Briançon Marcellin, Champoléon, Champol6on, Pelvoux, (a cheese fermented buttennilk). buttermilk). cheese, made from from fermented tomme (a cheese made cheese, tomme pastry isis the pogne, an The the pogne, an immense immense regional pastry characteristic regional The characteristic pumpkin. tart lied in and in in autumn autumn with with pumpkin. with fruit fruit and tart fifilled in summer summer with pogne ln pogne isis aa kind brioche. The The pogne of brioche. kind of area, aa pOfine In the the Drôme Drdme area, Among the the of high reputation. reputation. Among an especially especially high of Romans Romans enjoys enjoys an pognes and the sweet and meringues, meringues, the Valence pognes sweet specialities specialities are are Valence honey Voiron and and the the sweetmeats of of Voiron of Gap, Gap, the the sweelmeals honey tourons tourons of famous of Montélimar. Montelimar. famous nougul nougat of produce some highly Wines very highly some very slopes produce Rh6ne slopes Wines -- The The Rhône white reputed ch as Hermitage and and Crozes; Crozes; white of Hennitage such as those those of wines, su reputed wines, Die. and de Die. famous Clairette Clairette de the famous Hermitage and and the and red red Hermitage

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Old daubière (Larousse)

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DAUBIÈRE earthenware or or DAUBTDRE - Casserole of stoneware, earthenware tinned copper the cooking cooking of of daubes. copper for for the DAUCUS -- Plant medicinally seeds, used used medicinally whose aromatic aromatic seeds, Plant whose in preparation of some of sorne now used in the the preparation former times, times, are are now used in in fonner liqueurs. liqueurs. DA UMONT (À preparing large fish. The The (A LA) large fish. Method of of preparing DAUMONT LA) -- Method Daumonl quenelles, (see GARNISHES) garnish (see comprises quenelles, Daumont garnish GARNISHES) comprises soft served crayfish tails, tails, served roe, mushrooms and freshwater freshwater crayfish soft roe, mushrooms and with with Nantua Nantua sauce. sauce.

DAUPHINE (A LA) given to several different different Name given to several DAUPHINE (À LA) -- Name potato preparation preparation dishes. for aa potato used for dishes. Most Most commonly commonly itit isis used paste. This made potato mixture This mixture and and chou chou paste. made from from duchess duchess potato (See POT mixture Adeep-fried. (See POTAinto balls balls and and deep-fried. mixture isis shaped shaped into TOES.) TOES.)

DAUPHINÉ DAUPHINE -- The region stretches from the the Alps Alps ttre Dauphiné Dauphin6 region stretches from to ers on Rh6ne Valley. In the north itit bord borders on the the Lyonnais Lyonnais to the the Rhône Valley. In the north district area, from from which which itit isis separated separated by by district and and the the Bresse Bresse area, the any the Rhône. Rh6ne. In In the adjoins Provence Frovence without without any south itit adjoins the south clear-cut geographical demarcation demarcation line. line. Its Its north-eastern north-eastern clear-cut geographical border high, mountainous mountainous Isère Isdre border isis Savoy on the the edge edge of of the the high, Savoy on valley. geographical and valley. The and climatic climatic conditions conditions The diversity diversity of of geographical of produce. The region, explains of its its produce. The variety of explains the of this this region, the variety Rhône Rh6ne Valley Valley has has aa climate climate favourable favourable to to the the cultivation cultivation of of

DAUPHINOISE preparing potatoes potatoes (A LA) Method of of preparing DAUPHINOISE (À LA) -- Method (q.v.). (q.v.). DECANT. pour any liquid from from one cono6caNrsR -- To any liquid one conDECANT. DÉCANTER To pour 305 305

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tainer tainer into ioto another. another. Wine Wine is is decanted decanted into into a a carafe carafe to to get get rid rîd of of the the deposit deposit formed formed at at the the bottom bottom of of the the wine wine bottle. bottle. Decanting Decanting has has the the added added advantage advantage of of oxidising oxidising the the wine. wÎne. This This operation operation must must be be carried carried out out with with great great care, care, traintraining on the the carafe carafe to to make make sure sure that tbat the the wine wine is is clear, clear, ing aa light light on and and allowing allowing as as little litlle as as possible possible of of the the residue residue to 10 get get in. in. Butter is also said Butter is also said to to be be decantod decanted when when itit is is melted mehed and and purified purified by by being being transferred transferred from from one one container container to to another. aoother.

In In hotel hotel kitchens kilchens a a large large number number of of different fats fats are available. available. These These are are chosen chosen with with care and used lavishlv. lavishly. In In private private households, households, the the fats faIs are are not not always aJways pure, pure, and, and, for for reasons reasons of of economy, economy, the the housewife housewife uses uses her ner fats fats too tao sparingly. sparingly. This This is is false false economy. eeonomy. Deep-frying Deep-frying can can only only be be successful successful if if aa great great deal deaJ of of fat fal is is used. used. The The more more fat fat the the less less wastg waste, since, since, where where too too little litlle fat fat is is used, used. itil is is absorbed absorbed into into the the food food and and the the pieces pieces stick stick to to one one another anolner and and become become soggy. soggy. Food Food frid fried in in abundant abundant fat fat is is crisp, crisp, firm firm and and cooked cooked all aU through. through. ItIt isis properly properly sealed sealed at at the the outset outset and and therefore therefore does does not not absorb absorb the the fat. fat. There There must must be be ample ample space space in in the the cooking eooking utensil utensil which which should snould be be made made in in aa single single piece, piece, of of sheet-iron sheet-iron or or hammered hammered copper. copper. As As itit isis gften often necessary necessary to to fry fry aa number number of of thinp things at al the the same same time, time, itit is is desirable desirable to to have have at at least least two two such such pans pans in Ln the tne kitchen. kitchen. One One of ofthese these should snould be be kept kept exclusively exclusively for for fish. fish. Other Other necessary necessary equipment equipment for for deep-frying deep-frying are are grids, grids, baskets baskets and and skimmers. skimmers. The The pan pan must must be be carefully carefully cleaned cleaned each eaeh time time itit is is used, u~, inside inside and and out. out. The The fat fat should should be be strained strained and and pourod poured back back into into the the pan pan for for storage. storage. Fats Fats for for deepfrying. deep-frying. LA LA cRArssE GRAISSE DE DE FRrruRE FRITURE-- The The best best fat fat to to uso use in in all ail deep-frying deep-frying isis beef beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet), (suet), clarified c1arified and and purified purified with with scrupulous scrupulous care. care. This This fat fat isis odourless odourless and and can can be be heated hea ted up up to to 180'C. 180 a C. (350'F.) (350°F,) without wi thout burnihg. burning. IfIf itil

DECIZE DECIZE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. DECOC:TION. DECOCTION. n6cocnoN DÉCOCTION -- Process Process of of boiling boiling aa solid solid for for aa period period in io water. water. Clear Clear soup soup is is aa decoction deeoction of of meat. meal. The The decoction deeoction of of vegetable vegetable matter matter has has the the disadvantage disadvantage of of sap sapplng ping many many of of its ils nutritive nutritive properties properties and and evaporating evaporating its its volatile volatile elements. elements.

DECOMPOSITION. DECOMPOSITION. ofcorrlposlrroN DÉCOMPOSITION

--

Destruction DestructÎon of of aa

body body by by the the disintegration disintegration of of its i15 elements. elements.

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DEEP-FRYING. DEEP-FRYING. rnrruns FRITURE - Immersing Immersing foods foods in in aa large, large, deep deep pan pan of of boiling boiling fat. fat. The The French French term term for for deep-frying deep-fryîng isis friture, friture, aa word word also also applied applied to to the the fat fat used used in in deep-frying. deep-frying. 11 the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying In the great kitchens of a hotel or restaurant, deep-frying isis almost alwaya carried out successfully, almost always carried out successfully, but but this this cannot cannot bi be said of home home cooking, cooking, where where more more often often than than not not the the said of methods methods and and ingredients ingredients used used are are quite quite unsuitable. unsuitable.

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DEEP-FRYING also deep-fried deep-frid in in moderately hot hot fat; fat; they also not be they would not through if they were sealed cooked right througb sealed at once by contact heat. with too intense aa beat. Very hot fat fat is is used used for foodstuffs which must be Very be sealed example, anything anything dipped dipped in in egg egg and and breadinstantly, for example, crumbs or batter. This also applies to precooked foods sucb such croquettes and very small foodstuffs which must be sealed as croquettes immediately. Soufflé Souffi6 potatoes must must be dropped into into very immediately. be dropped hot fat after having first been cooked in moderately hot fat. theory ofdeep-frying: This was Brillat-Savarin's theOl"y of deep-frying: 'Not all liquids exposed to the action of of fire can absorb absorb the 'N ot allliquids same amount heat. Thus, amount of of heat. Thus, one one may may with with impunity impunity dip same into boiling spirits of wine, wine, where where one one would one's finger finger into boiling spirits and still more hastily from withdraw it hastily from brandy, and water, while water, while any any contact contact with with boiling boiling oil oil would cause cause an painful blister, since oil hold at blister, since oil can can hold at least least three intensely painful as much heat as as water. muchheat times as is as aa result of these differences differences that hot liquids act in 'It is different ways ways upon the foodstuffs which which are are immersed immersed in upon the different cookod in in water are are softened softened and and reduced reduced by them. Those cooked boiling; soups soups and and extracts are their extracts are their by-products. by-products. Foods boiling; hand, are compressed; fat, on the other hand, compressed; they take cooked in fat, colouring, and in the end become charred. on aa dark col ou ring, and 'In the the first first case, case, water dissolves dissolves and and absorbs 'In into itsetf absorbs into itself cookod in it; the inherent juices of the foods cooked it; in in the second, juices are preserved intact because because they are are insoluble in the juices If fried fried foods eventuaIJy eventually become desiccated it is because oil. If because heat has has evaporated ail to heat all the the moisture moisture in over-exposure to them. 'These two are known different 'These known by by different two methods of cooking cooking are names, and fat is and the the process of boiling foodstuffs in oil oil or fat asfrying. known as frying. 'The virtue of good frying lies lies in in aa kind kind of shell shell formed 'The prevents the fat round the food, food, which fat from penetrating it which prevents round seals the juices and seaJs inside. These juices are thus and juices inside. juices are thus cooked flavour of within the shell so that preserved. that the full flavour of the food is preserved. The boiling liquid must have attained aa sufficient degree of heat for for its action action to to be reach this point, heat be instantaneous; to reach it must be heated for quite a long time over a very hot flame. quick frying or for used only for very quick Olive oil should be used processes which which do do not heat. This is processes not require great heat. is because because olive oil, oil, if heated for aa long long time, develops olive develops an unpleasant taste which it is difficult to eradicate.' (Physiologie du Goût.) Gofrt.\

carefully looked after, it can be used used over and and over again. is carefully A little veal fat can be added if desired, desired. but veal veal fat must A quickly. An not used alone, very quickly. not be be used alone, since since it it deteriorates very alternative household household fat fat can can be alternative mixing ox be prepared by by mixing kidney-fat with an equal equal quantity of lard lard or or oil, but but these with an mixtures, apart from from being being more expensive, cannot cannot be more expensive, mixtures, apart heated to to tbe high degree without the same same higb without burning, burning, nor beated nor can they be be used used again much. Mutton fat fat should should never they never be again as as much. used in in deep-frying, deep-frying, since since it it impregnates the the food food witb with a used taste of tallow. Among the fats fats which which are are suitable suitable for for frying frying certain Among the fish, fritters, which is suitable for fish, special foods are olive oil, wbich rice and cream croquettes, etc; and cream etc; c1arified clarified butter which which may rice be used used in in the flavoured sweets; the preparation be preparation of delicately flavoured and groundnut (peanut) oil and and and cereal oils. cheaper vegetable oils oils'include The cheaper inc1ude various types of cocoquite suitable in certain cases, but are nut butter. butter. They are are quite poor substitute for ox kidney fat. still a poor fat of duck, The fat duck, goose and and other other fat fat poultry, as as weil well as The butter for browning browning or in the preparalard, may be used with butter tion of roux, but ox kidney is more efficient. In his book, le le Cuisinier Cuisinier praticien, praticien, Reculet says: In amount of fat fat used frying must must always depend in frying 'The amount used in greater the upon the the size object to fried; the upon size of of the the object to be be fried; the greater liquid, the more it can hold hold the heat, and and itit is quantity of liquid, able to to counteract the cooling caused by by the the immersion imrhersion of able and the moisture given off during cooking. cooking. the object and desirable to have have two lots of of cooking cooking 'In a busy kitchen it is desirable fat, one one white white and fresh or at and one one brown. brown. The white fat fat is is fresh fat, used: it should should be used used for ail all deep-frying deep-frying except least little used: fish. The brown fat, darkened by long long service should be for fish. all cases. cases. used for fish, though good white fat is preferable in ail 'There are several signs to be seen when frying-oil becomes hot: l. A slight tremor on the surface. 1. characteristic smell. 2. A strong characteristic vapour given off by the fat. 3. A dry whitish vapour fat by adding a drop of water to it or Test the heat of the fat purified fat into it. If dipping any substance other than purified If the by dipping sound is is sharp sharp and and high, high, the the fat fat is is hot enough enough for for frying.' sound proportion of Vegetables and fruit, which which have have aa high high proportion and fruit, Vegetables fried in moderately fat. This This applies water in them, are are fried moderately hot fat. applies and other large foodstuffs particularly to potatoes. Fish and foodstuffs are

Electric deep-frying equipment, Electric deep-frying equipment, commercial commercial Photothique E.D.F.) E. D.F.) (Brigaud. Phot. Photothèque

Deep-frying basket Deep-frying (Dehillerin. Phot. Larousse) (Dehillerin. Larousse)

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DEEP.FRYING DEEP-FRYING BASKET BASKET joint of away sorne some of of the the fat fat which which forms forms aa coating away coating on on aa joint of meat. Ali All fat fat thus removed, whether thus removed, whether from from liquids liquids or meat. or meat meat of mutton or or lamb) lamb) must must be (except that of be clarified. clarified.ItIt can can then then be used used for for deep-frying. be

DEEP-FRYING crurrn -- Wire utensil in in which DEEP-FRYING BASKET. GRILLE food liftd can be b€ lifted Fried foods can food is contained for deep-frying. Fried out of the fat in this utensil.

DEGRAISSIS -- Term in French fat DÉGRAISSIS Term used used in French cookery cookery for for the the fat skimmed skimmed off off clear clear soup, soup, stock, stock, or This fat, fat, which which or sauce. sauce. This 'economy fat', must must be be clarified, is is known known in in France France as as 'economy fat', and and is fat. is used to fry certain vegetables, or or as as deep-frying deep-frying fat.

DEHYDRATING. ofsttyDRArER DEHYDRATING. DÉSHYDRATER (q.v.).

-- Wild

Synonym for drying drying Synonym for

(breakDÉJEUNER DEJEUNER -- In In France, France, the the first meal of of the the day day (breakfirst meal (i.e. little fast) dijeuner (i.e. fast) is is called called the the petit déjeuner dijeuner or premier déjeuner little or distinguish itit from or first first déjeuner) dijeuner) to to distinguish from déjeuner, dijeuner, which which isis taken in in the middle of the day. day. The The institution institution of of this midday meal back to to the meal dates this midday dates back the French Revolution. Revolution. In the eighteenth the main meal century the main meal eighteenth century, (dinner) was of of the the day, day, dîner diner (dinner) was taken first at at midday midday and and taken first later p.m. The déjeuner, later at at 1I p.m. dijeuner, taken taken upon waking, waking, consisted consisted of aa soup or coffee with milk. The Constituent bly began its deliberations Assembly Constituent Assem deliberations at at about about midday, to p.m. It was, at about 66 p.m. therefore, necessary necessary to rise at was, therefore, to change the dinner hour hour to to 6 p.m., and and since since the the members could not sit sit fasting, fasting they could not they were were obliged obliged to to take take aa second second breakfast at at II I I a.m. a.m. This This second second déjeuner dijeuner was was more more subsubstantial than the first and the first and included eggs and and cold cold meat. meat. According ( I 822-1 896) According to the the Goncourt Goncourt brothers, Edmond (1822-1896) and (1830-1870), itit was Handy who and Jules Jules (1830-1870), was Mme. Mme. Handy who invented invented fork fork luncheons, luncheons, by setting setting out cutlets, cutlets, kidneys and and sausages sausages on aa buffet her café on buffet in in her caf6 on on the the boulevards the opposite the boulevards opposite Comédie-Italienne, pressing her and pressing Com6die-Italienne, and her clients clients to to take take these these savouries savouries with their meal. Nowadays, in in France, France, déjeuner has largely largely usurped usurped the ddjeuner has the place of the original dîner. place lt includes diner. It includes the the same same dishes dishes and and is eaten later and is and later in the day. day. in the The experts maintain maintain that The experts that aa substantial dinner dinner does not does not necessarily cause provided that restless night, night, provided that there necessarily cause aa restless there is is aa enough interval interval between long enough dinner and and going to and between dinner to bed, bed, and because too large aa lunch makes makes work in the because too large diffcult in the afterafterwork difficult noon, more and and more people people are habit are following the the British British habit of having a substantial breakfast followed followed by aa light light lunch.

Deer Deer on display in shop shop window window

DEER. cERF CERF DEER.

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mammal whose whose flesh flesh is tender up up to mammal

one year, year, and and from from then then on on becomes more and more tough. one particularly indigestible indigestible and even ev en poisonous poisonous when the the ItIt isis particularly brought down after a long long chase. chase. deer has has been been brought deer Ali methods methods of preparation preparation given given for for the the buck buck are All are applicable to to the the doe. doe. applicable

DEFRUTUM -- Latin term tenu used used by Apicius and and found found in DEFRUTUM to designate designate grape grape juice juice reduced reduced by evaporaevaporaancient recipes recipes to ancient tion to to aa third third of of its its volume. volume. This This juice juice was was widely used used in in tion Roman cookery. cookery. Roman

DÉLICE -- This strictly means means aa DELICE This word, word, which which in in French French strictly certain type type of pastry, is is nowadays certain of pastry, nowadays misused misused by some by sorne

pretentious maîtres in the pretentious maitres d'hôtel d'h6tel in the drawing drawing up up of of their their menus. menus. Having no no precise precise culinary Having culinary meaning, meaning, the the word word (which implies delectability), delectability), is implies is exploited exploited for for its very vagueness, its very vagueness, implying in in ad vance that implying advance that the the dish dish offered offered is is delectable, delectable, though, in fact, ail is to to put though, put the patron on all it it does does is the wary wary patron his on his guard.

DÉGLAÇAGE -- Technical Technical term term in in French cookery cookery for the the DfGLACAGE operation of of pouring pouring any any liquid liquid into into the pan pan in in which which food operation

in butter butter or or other other fat. fat. has been been cooked cooked in has Wine is is used used for for this this purpose, purpose, heated heated and and stirred stirred in in the the Wine pan so so that that all ail the the concentrated concentrated juices juices are are incorporated incorporated into into pan it. White White or or brown brown stocks, stocks, cream, cream, vinegar, vinegar, or or alcohol alcohol can can it. also be be used. used. also

DEMI -- In In English the term term 'ha Ir is glass of 'half DEMI English the is used used of of aa glass of beer beer holding approximately approximately 33 dl. dl. (t (| pint, pint, li holding lf cups). cups). France, a a demi demi is is aa glass glass of In France, In holding about of beer beer also also holding about

DÉGLACER -- Technical Technical term term in in French French cookery cookery for for the the DfGLACER


dilution of of the the concentrated concentrated juices juices in in aa pan pan in in which which meat, meat, dilution or fish fish has has been been roasted, roasted, braised braised or or fried. fried. poultry, game game or poultry,

White or or red red wine, wine, Madeira Madeira or or some sorne other other heavy heavy wine, wine, clear clear White and sometimss sometimt;s cream cream are are used. used. soup, stock stock and soup, DÉGORGER -- Term Term used used in in French French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to DEG{ORGER of time time in in cold cold water water to to free free soak food food for for aa variable variable length length of soak from impurities. impurities. Thus, Thus, calves' calves' heads heads and and sweetbreads sweetbreads are are itit from soaked in in water water to to make make them them very very white. white. soaked The term term isis also also used used of of the the operation operation of of clearing clearing ChamChamThe pagne bottles bottles of of the the impurities impurities containod contained in in the the wine. wine. pagne

DEMI-DEUIL G (À DEMI-DEUtr lated, means means 'in 'in lated,

LA) - This (which, literally literally transterm (which, transLA) - This term half-mourning') is is applied mainly to to half-mourning') applied mainly poultry and and veal veal sweetbreads poached poultry poached in aa white white sweetbreads braised braisd in sauce. sauce.

Food cooked cooked in in Food and garnished garnished with with and

this way way is is dressed dressed with suprAme sauce sauce this with suprême truffies. trumes.

DEMIDOFF - Name of aa princely princely Russian DEMIDOIF Russian farnily. family. Prince Prince - Name of

DÉGRAISSER -- Term Term in in French French cookery cookery meaning meaning to to skim skim DEGRAISSER off excess excess fat fat which which forms forms on on the the surface surface of of aa liquid liquid (clear (clear off soup, sauce, sauce, etc.). etc.). The The term term is is also also used used to to describe describe cutting cutting soup,

Anatole Demidoff, Demidoff, who who married married Princess Princess Mathilde, Anatole Mathilde, daughter daughter of King King J6rdme Jérôme Bonaparte Bonaparte (but (but was was soon soon divorced), divorced), was of was one one of the the most most celebrated celebrated gastronomes gastronomes of of the of the Second Second Empire. Empire. 308 308

DEMI-ESPAGNOLE DEMI-ESPAGNOLE

(Boucher) d6jeuner (Boucher) Le petit déjeuner

preparing large For this this reason, reason, an an elaborate method For method of of preparing poultry was (See CHICKEN, called after after bim. him. (See poultry was called CHICKEN, Chicken Demidoff.)

simmer. onions, and, after having skimmed it carefully, let it simmer. About 22 hours hours later, later, strain strain itit through through muslin or sieve About muslin or without pressure. Leave to to stand, stand, and and strain strain thoroughly. thoroughly. without pressure. Leave and stir with aa special 'Put the saucepan on aa strong heat and bubbling ail all over. espagnole en spoon until the liquid is bubbling espagnob wood wooden remove skim carefully carefully and rem Move it to the corner of ove of the stove; skim every trace of fat. fat. In this state, leave it for aa full 45 minutes. and replace replace the stock on on the strong heat. Skim off the the fat, fat, and it from spoon to prevent it Stir the espagnole wood en spoon espagnole with aa wooden of the boiling which will will otherwise happen happen because of boiling over, over, which possible as far far as as possible to preserve very preserve as very rapid rapid boiling necessary to the essence which is the sauce. cloth.' reduced, strain strtrin through aa c1oth.' When it is is suitably suitably reduced,

DEMI-ESPAGNOLE -- By demi-espagnole, Carême Car6me means DEMI-ESPAGNOLE what today is called called demi-glace (see SAUCE). SAUCE). espagnole into aa saucepan with the 'Pour half the grande espagnole clear chicken soup to which have been of good c1ear same volume of added the the trimmings and truffies.' added trimmings of mushrooms and truffies.' Carême Car6me preparation ofthis instructions for the preparation of this soup: adds instructions 'This consommé consomm6 is is made with the carcases 'T:lis carcases and giblets of (too much salt good stock (too chickens, moistened salt must 2 chickens, moistened with good be particularly avoided). avoided). Next, Next, add add aa carrot, carrot, aa couple be couple of 309

DEMI-GLACE DEMI-GLACE sauce made made by and skimDEMI-GLACE -- Brown sauce by boiling and estoufade, and mixing in wrute white stock, estouffade, ming ming espagnole sauce and clear soup. or c1ear Madeira or sherry. This sauce sauce is is usually usuallv flavoured flavoured with with Madeira sherrv. This SAUCE.) UCE.) (See SA

especially prescribed; not too much meat or fatty foods and especially not too much bread. Sometimes Sometimes a diet is not a restorative diet is inditoo much to the the type type of cated. Each Each case case must be treated according to be treated cated. person has, how efficient his his digestive digestive prodermatitis the the person dermatitis has, how ofhealth. cesses are, and his general state of health.

glass Larse earthenware or or glass - Large

used in cookery for for the removal DÉROBER DEROBER -- French term used of the skins of shelled broad beans. and other also mean It mean the peeling of potatoes and It can the peeling of potatoes can also vegetables.

DEMI-JOHN. bottle.

DAME-JEANT.IE DAME-JEANNE

DEMI-SEL -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. can mean DEMI-TASSE -- In mean either a DEMI-TASSE ln France aa demi-tasse can small cup or a cup of of black coffee. very smaU

French cookery cookery denoting denoting the the reDÉNERVER in French DENERVER -- Term in gristle, etc. etc. from of tendons, tendons, membranes, membranes, gristle, from meat, moval moval of poultry, game, etc.

DEMER (EN) -- Potato crisps are sometimes sometimes called en denier DENIER in France because because they are are cut cut in the shape of aa coin. in coin. (See POTATOES.) POTATOES.)

D6saugiers M.-A. Désaugiers (1772-1821) (1772-1827)

neNsruirnr -- Instrument DENSIMETER. DENSIMÈTRE Instrument designed DENSIMETER. designed to measure the density of liquids. Anometers and measure the density alcoholoand alcoholometers are are densimeters densimeters constant constant in weight but variable in meters in weight but variable glass rod volume, made made in the form rod weighted in the form of aa hollow glass volume, rod sinks sinks into the liquid and with lead or mercury. The rod and the recorded by means of aa scale is recorded scale marked on the side. density is many types of densimeter for for different different There are aa great many types of liquid. These are usually sold with conversion tables indicating the allowances allowances to to be made for for temperature, and readings to to be converted to to other scales. enabling the readings

Df,SAUGIERS -- Marc-Antoine Marc-Antoine Désaugiers, D6saugiers, aa talented DÉSAUGIERS (Yar) in satirical songs, was was born at at Fr6jus in 1772 writer of satirical Fréjus (Var) in 1827. 1827. and died in Paris in Drlsaugiers, immortal author author of of M. et Mme. Denis, can be Désaugiers, gastronomic poets, for he numbered among among the he wrote wrote a numbered the gastronomic poets, for the table. table. Sorne great many joys of the many songs extolling the joys Some of forefathers' these these songs are still sung today, when, as in our forefathers' singing a song over time, each guest at table takes his turn at singing the dessert. dessert. He He was was secretary secretary of of the the Caveau Caveau moderne, moderne, a the gastronomic and and also also somewhat bacchanaFrench literary, gastronomic bacchanahis will, in speaking, in society. He wrote wrote rus in aa manner of speaking, lian society. (Eating Song). his Chanson àd manger (Eating the la st couplet of his last

DENSIY. DENSI"IÉ osNsrrE -- Degree Degree of consistence DENSITY. consistence of aa body body or of the mass mass to the volume, substance, measured by the ratio of the quantity of matter in unit of bulk. bulk. In In practice, in aa unit or by the to the this is the ratio of the weight of aa volume of aa body body to trus of the same volume of weight of of distilled water at a temperature (39.2"F.). The 4'C. (39.2°F.). of 4°C. with special The rneasuring of density density with of measuring of readily to assess the alcohol instruments makes it possible readily to assess of a liquid, the sugar content of content of of a syrup, syrup, etc. (Wolves'fang) in France DENT -DE-LOUPS (Wolves' fang) -- Name given in DENT-DE-LOUPS of decorative motif motif used to several kinds of used in the presentation of dishes: dishes: of l. Slices of sandwich bread cut into triangles and and fried friod in 1. garnish a number of butter or oil. These are used to garnish butter of different different dishes. of jelly, 2. Triangles cut out of strips of 2. jelly, used used to garnish cold dishes.

me frappe Je frappe Je veux que la mort me Au milieu d'un grand repas; Qu'on Qu'on m'enterre sous la nappe Entre quatre larges plats, Et que sur ma tombe on mette

Mediterranean fish. fish. The ih" common opNrf -- Mediterranean DENTEX. DENTEX. DEN"IÉ ro^ o, dentex large-eyed m. (40 inches); the large-eyed can to 1I m. can attain aa length of up to (20 inches). to about about 50 50 cm. cm. (20 inches). Prepare Prepare as as for dentex dmtex grows to sea bream (q.v.).

inscription : Cette courte inscription: Ie premier polte poète Ci-gît Ci-gtt le Mort d'une indigestion. indigestion.

1I pray that death may strike me middle of of aa large meal. ln In the middle 1I wish to be buried under the tablec10th tablecloth Between four large dishes. And 1I desire that this short inscription engraved on my tombstone Should be engraved Here lies the first poet Ever to die of indigestion. indigestion.

p6NurRrrroN -- Nutritional Nutritional disorder that DENUTRITION. DÉNUTRITION occurs when when deassimilation exceeds exceeds assimilation. assimilation. occurs

n6srtnrm. -- To grain or remove excess oil DE-OIL. DÉSHUILER To remove oil from from grain some chemical process. flour, either by pressure or by sorne DERBY -- Method of preparing preparing large poultry (see CHICKDerby). It was devised by M. Jean Giroix EN, Chicken àd la la Derby). when he was in charge of the kitchens of the Hotel de Paris at Monte-Carlo.

actors of of the ComédieDESESSARTS DESESSARTS -- One of of the greatest actors Com6diein 1740 1740 and at Langres Française in his his day. Langres in Frangaise in day. He was was born at also a celebrated celebratod gastronome. died at Barèges Bareges in in 1793. He was also I'Histoire des 'Desessarts,' says says Emile Emile Deschanel Deschanel in 'Desessarts,' in l'Histoire his size, size, but but he an appetite worthy of rus comédiens, 'had an he was comidiens,'had was very witty. witty. A good dinner sent also aa connoisseur. He was the qualities his spirits soaring. He would would analyse elegantly the dish, and, and, in in order order to to describe describe them more vividly, of each dish, amusin gly bizarre words. coin amusingly would coin

psRMlros -- Skin DERMATffIS. DERMATOSE Skin infection. infection. Such Such comDERMATITIS. plaints have have led led to food restrictions to food restrictions because certain certain foods etc.) cause cause skin skin eruptions (strawberries, shellfish, etc.) eruptions in in sorne some people. people ought ought to to avoid whatever upsets them people. These people or endeavour to desensitise themselves but it is unnecessary unnecessary to to aU all sufferers from from skin disorders. to forbid such foods to In most dermatitis aa moderate diet is is generally ln most cases of dermatitis 310

DEVILLED DEVILLED 'If 'If his his fellow-diners fellow-diners were were amiable and good trenchennen, trenchermen, the the sybarite sybarite gaiety gaiety of of Desessarts Desessarts would wou Id express express itself itself lyrically lyrically in in poetic poetic phrases phrases such as as "the "the boar, boar, prince prince of of the forests, forests,

fifth course course of the meal, was often presented in magnificent magnificent style. Large set pieces fashioned in pastry, described described often and in great detail by Car6me, Carême, whose accounts accounts are are accomaccompanied by splendid illustrations, were placed placed on the table at the beginning of of the meal. These owed more to architecture architecture than than to to the the art art of cooking, and and had had a a purely decorative function. function. Just before berore the sweet sweet course, course, a multitude of sweets were elegantly arranged on the table with the set pieces, for every every ceremonial table table was laid in accordance accordance with with a detailed plan. The dishes had to harmonise with gold plate, crystal, magnificent magnificent baskets baskets of fruit, fruit, and and the the tall taU candelabra: candelabra: a magnificent magnificent spectacle. Flowers decoration. Fruit too, is Flowers are used today for table decoration. often placed placed on the table before before the beginning beginning of the meal and and this, too, too, contributes to its its embellishment. embellishment. Sweets, hot or cold, are served as dessert after the cheese cheese

whose whose ferocious ferocious pride pride is is humbled hum bled when when he is is baked baked in a

pdti".' pâté".'

Desessarts Desessarts was, was, like like all ail gourmets, gourmets, a splendid fellow. His His talent talent was was as as straightforward as as his his character. character. Infectious Infectious gaiety bonhomie were were distinctive traits traits both both of of gaiety mixed mixed with bonhomre his his art art and and his his disposition. disposition.

DESICCATION. DESICCATION. nessrccArroN DESSICCATION -- Process Process of of drying drying or dehydrating dehydrating foodstuffs. foodstuffs. (See (See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) DESSERT DESSERT -- Last Last course course of of a meal. meal. Nowadays, Nowadays, in France, France, dessert dessert comprises comprises cheese, cheese, sweet sweet dishes dishes (which (which were were formerly formerly served served before before the the dessert) dessert) and and fruit. fruit. In ln former former times times at at great great banquets, banquets, dessert, dessert, which which was was the the

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Dessert Dessert (after (aCterCar€me, Carême, /ele Confturier Confiturier royal) royal)

in France. France. Although Although less Jess ostentatious ostentatious than than in in former former times, times, in modem desserts desserts are are no no less less sumptuous sumptuous or or succulent. succulent. modern

DESSERTE -- French French term term for for food food that that has has been been prepared prepared DESSERTE but not not used. used. In In certain certain French French restaurants, restaurants, such such food food (apart (apart but from aa few few items) items) belongs belongs to to the the waiters. waiters. from DETREMPE DÉTREMPE -- Technical Technical term term in in confectionery confectionery meaniqg meanin~ aa mixture of of flour fiour and and water water to to be be used used in in the the preparation preparation of of mixture pastries. pas tries. For example, example, faire faire Ia la ddtrempe détrempe du du feuilletage feuilletage isis the the term tem For used for for making making the the flour-and-water fiour-and-water mixture mixture of offlaky fiaky pastry. pastry. used

DEVILFISH. nLc,sLE DIABLE DE DE MER MER -- Anglerfish, Anglerfish, found found on on the the DEVILFISH. North North American American and and European European sides sides of of the the Atlantic. Atlantic. It It isis also also sometimes sometimes known known as as sea-frog, sea-frog, miller's miller's thumb, thumb, and bull-head. bull-head. In In the the U.S.A. U .S.A. itit isis known known as asgoose goosefish, fish, all-mouth all-mouth monkfish, monkfish, andfishing fishingfrog. frog. and

DEVILLED. A À L,c, LA DIABLE DIABLE -- Name Name given given to to aa method method of of DEVILLED. preparation, especially especially suitable suitable for for poultry. poultry. The The bird bird isis slit slit preparation, open along along the the back, back, spread spread out out flat, fiat, seasoned, seasoned, and and grilled. grilled. open

cooking itit is is sprinkled sprinkled with with fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and After cooking After

Modern Moderndessert dessertininFrance France (O r.ft v r e r ie CChristofle) (Orfèvrerie hr i s t ofl e)

browned under under the the grill. grill. browned 311 3ll

DEXTRIN DEXTRIN Poultry cooked cooked inin this this way way should should be served with beserved with Diable Diable Poultry (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). sauce UCE). gum). DEXTRINE DEXTRIN (British nrxrRrNE - - Powdery Powdery substance, substance, @ritish gum). DEXTRIN yellowish, obtained white or or slightly slightly yeIJowish, obtained by by splitting splitting starch. starch. white When mixed mixed with with water water itit forms forms aa thick, paste. thick, viscous viscouspaste. When

DIABLOTINS - -Slices Slicesof ofFrench French bread breadabout about55mm. mm.(i(]inch) DIABLOTINS inch) thick,covered coveredwith withaa mixture mixtureofofthick thickbéchamel bichamelsauce thick, sauce gratedcheese flavoured with withgrated pepper,sprinkled cheeseand andcayenne flavoured cayennepepper, sprinkled gratedParmesan withgrated Parmesan cheese cheeseand andbrowned. with browned.They Theyare areserved served with soup. soup. with paper cases Chocolates sold soldininpaper casesand Chocolates andaccompanied accompanied by byaa motto are arealso alsocalled calleddiablotins. diablotins. motto

DEXTROSE -- Scientific glucose, so Scientific name name for for glucose, so caHed called DEXTROSE polarisation, itit causes because in in polarisation, causes deviation deviation toto the the right. right. because

DIAPHRAGM. COFFRE corrnn- -Part Partof DIAPHRAGM. ofthe thebody bodyofofman manororbeast beast whichcontains contains the theribs. ribs. The TheFrench French word which wordcoffre coffreisisapplied applied thecarapace carapace of toto the ofcertain certain shellfish. shellfish.

DIABETES. DIABÈTE onntrr -- Serious Serious nutritional nutritional disorder. disorder. There There DIABETES. are two two main main types types of of diabetes; diabetes; aa mild mild forro form which which does does not not are prevent the the sufferer from leading provided that sufferer from leading aa normal normal life life provided that prevent he keeps to aa special special diet, keeps to diet, and and aa severe severe forro form which which requires requires he medical treatment. treatment. medical All diabetics diabetics require require aa special special diet. diet. Ali Cooking for for diabetics. diabetics. CUISINE cursrNE DES oes DlABÈTlQUES ohsirreuEs -- Once Once an an Cooldng intelligent cook cook knows quantity of knows the the quantity of carbohydrates carbohydrates the the intelligent (that is, diabetic isis allowed allowed (that is, f10ury floury and and leguminous leguminous food) food) he he diabetic can use the ration ration in use the in many many ways ways in in order order to to vary vary the the diet diet can pleasant and and make make itit pleasant and appetising. appetising. He He will will avoid avoid thickened thickened and sauces and and any any food food where pulses are where f10ur flour or or pulses are used in large large used in sauces amounts. Also Also to to be be avoided avoided isis the the excessive excessive use use of of salt, salt, amounts. which would would only only increase pronounced thirst increase the the already already pronounced thirst of of which the diabetic, diabetic, and and especially especially the use of of sugars. the use sugars. the

DIASTASIS. oIl.sr.lsE- - Ferment DIAST ASIS. DIASTASE Ferment which whichdevelops grain developsiningrain and tubers tubers atatthe germination. This and themoment moment of ofgermination. This liquefies liquefiesthe the starchand andturns starch turns ititinto intosugar. sugar.

DICING. COUPER coupER EN rNDÉS ors- - Cutting DICING. Cutting various variousfoodstuffs, foodstuffs,for for example, ham, ham,artichoke artichoke hearts, example, hearts, truffles, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. into cubes cubes or or squares. squares. into (A LA) DIEPPOISE DIEPPOISE (À LA) -- Method Method of preparing seawater of preparing seawater fish. fish. Fish Fish àri laladieppoise garnishedwith dieppoise isiscooked cooked ininwhite whitewine, wine, garnished with mussels mussels and and shelled shelled freshwater freshwater crayfish crayfishtails, tails, and andmasked masked with white wine wine sauce sauce made with aa white made with with the thecooking cooking stock stockof ofthe the (See BRILL, fish mussels (See fish and and mussels BRiLL, Bri/l Brill àdlaladieppoise.) dieppoise.) DIET. DIET. RÉGIME nncnc ALIMENTAIRE ALTMENTATRE - - Methodical Methodical and and reasoned reasoned use use of of food food inin health health as as in in sickness. sickness.

DHBLE -- Cookery Cookery utensil porous utensil made made in in the the forro form of of two two porous DIABLE pans, one earthenware pans, one of of which which fits fits onto onto the the other other as as aa lid. lid. earthenware (potatoes, chestnuts) Some vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit (potatoes, chestnuts) can Sorne can be be cooked in pan without in this this type type of of pan without liquid. liquid. cooked In France France aa sheet-metal sheet-metal draught draught device ln device for for solid solid fuel fuel cookers is is also also known as as aa diable. diable. cookers

DIETETICS. DIETETICS. DIÉTÉTIQUE o#r6rreus - - The The study study of of everything everythingconconcerned cerned with with diet diet and and ail all that that relates relates to to the the therapeutic therapeutic use useof of food. food. Dietetics Dietetics can can be be defined defined as asthe the art art of of nourishing nourishing oneoneself self naturally. naturally. The The importance importance of of aa sensible, sensible, regulated, regulated, balanced balanced diet diet has has been proved where been amply amply proved health isisconwhere health concerned. cerned.

(A LA) DIABL,E (À LA)-- See See DEVILLED. DIABLE

#

Demt-johns and and diables diables (lr'lcolas) (Nicolas) Demi-johns

312 3t2

DIGESTER DIGESTER The scienoe of dietetics is relatively new and unfamiliar. science of dietetics is relatively new and unfamiliar. ItThe is still mainly applied to invalid diets, diets for chronic Il is still mainly applied to invalid diets, dieL~ for chronic diseases such as diabetes, rheumatism, etc. and slimming diseases such as diabetes, rheumatism, etc. and slimming just diets. But it is as important for dietetics to be used in diets. But it is just as important for to be used in the service of the healthy. To feeddietctics oneself badly badlymeans means the service of the healthy. To feed oneself depriving the body of nutrients that it requires, oi providdepriving the body of nutrients that it requires, or providing these in over-generous or insufficient amounts, piactices ing thesc in over-generous or insufficient amounts, practices which often lead to disease and disorders. which often lead to disease and disorders. It is important, therefore, to know the body's quantitative Il is important, therefore, to know the body's quantitative qualitative requirements, and to discover what perand and qualitative requirements, and to discover what percentage of vital elements are present in the various foods. centage of vital elements are present in the various foods. With this knowledge it is possible to compile diets suited to With this knowledge it is possible to compile diets suited to various needs. various needs. Food is made percentages up of certain of three three energising energising _Food is made up of certain percentages of elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proteids (proteins) elements: proteids, glucides and lipids. Proleüis (pro teins) are the basic constituents of all living cells. There is no life are the basic constituents of ail living cells. Thel'e is no life without proteins. They should account for to 14 per cent without proteins. They should account for Il to 14 pel' cent of the total calorie intake. Carbohydrates produce the sugars. of the total calorie intake. Carbohydrates produce the sugars. Carbohydrates should account for about half the food eiten Carbohydrates should account for about half the food eaten darly. Lipids (fats) have an important role in the diet. A daily. Lipids (fats) have an important role in the die!. À of 40 g. (ltoz.) should be eonsumed eachday,25 g. giniTury of minimum 40 g. (1 oz.) should be consumed each day, 25 g. (l oz.) of which should be animal fat. (l oz.) of which be animal fa t. Mineral saltsshould such as sodium chloride, calcium, phosMineral salts such as sodium chloride, calcium, ph osphorus, etc. are present in food and these, too, are indispensph orus, etc. are pœsent in food and these, too, are indispensable elements, as are trace elements such as zinc, iron, copper, able elements, as are trace elements such as zinc, iron, coppel', etc., and vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (l oz.) mineral-salts etc., and vitamins. Approximately 25 g. (1 oz.) minerai salts should be consumed daily, half of which should be sodium should be consumed daily, half of wbich should be sodium salts. salts. Vitamins play a very important r6le. The table below Vitamins play a very important rôle. The table below indicates the properties and sources of the principal vitamins. indicates the properties and sources of the principal vitamins.

.Plays an important role in EE Plays an important role in fertility, pregnancy, pregnancy, sterility sterility fertility, andmuscular muscularbalance balanceinin and rats.Uncertain Uncertain function function rats. humanbeings. beings. ininhuman

Anti-haemorrhagic vitamin vitamin Green Green vegetables, vegetables, KK Anti-haemorrhagic n@essaryfor for the thecoagulation coagulation salads, salads,fruit. fruit. necessary theblood. blood. Ils Itsfunction function .ofthe ,of theformation formationof prothrombin. of prothrombin. isisthe problem that The problem that faces faces the thedietitian dietitian isisto (accordto calculate calculate (accordThe ing toto the the situation, situation, temperament temperament and and tastes tastes of person of the the person ing (in calories) concerned) the the energy energy value value (in calories) of given food. ofa food, as as concerned) a given well as as its its richness richness in in appropriate appropriate vitamins. vitamins. IlIt isis then then aa case case weil 6f combining combining the the various various foods foods so so as to obtain as to obtain aa coherent, coherent, ôf balanced, pleasant pleasant diet. diet. In In order order to to calculate calculate calorie calorie requirerequirebalanced, ments we must bear we must bear in in mind mind that: that: ments protein produces produces 44 calories, calories, 1 g.g. protein carbohydrate produces produces 44 calories, calories, 1 g.g. carbohydrate g. Iipids produces about lipids produces about 99 calories. calories. 1 g. Each individual's individual's needs, needs, where where calories calories are are concerned, concerned, Each v-aries.considerably according to to the the work work he he does, does, his his age, age, varies considerably according the climate climate in in which which he he lives, lives, etc. general rule As aa general etc. As rule itiiis the is recognised that that aa man man of physical activity of average average physical activity requires requires recognised 2,800 calories calories daily, daily, aa woman, woman, 2,200. 2,200. Vitam Vitamin 2,800 in requirements quantitative and are quantitative qualitative. and qualitative. are

ll

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A A Bl BI

Vitamins Vitamins

WEIGHT AND AND CALORIE CALORIE EQUIVALENTS EQUIVALENTS WEIGHT

Metabolism of glucides.

Factor

of appetite and the balance of the nervous system. Lack of this the nervous system. Lack of this vitamin causes vitamin causes beriberi.

beriberi.

eggs, carrots, eggs, carrots, spinach, cabbage, spinach, cabbage. fish fish liver liver oil. oil.

Yeasts, Yeasts, wheatgerm, wheatgerm, sugar, sugar, bread, bread, meat, meat, dried dried vegetables, vegetables, green vegetables. green vegetables.

92 Vitamin of general equilibrium. Cereals, liver, liver, eggs, eggs, Vitamin of general equilibrium. Cereals, Dz Nutritional and

metabolic

Nutritional and metabolic regulator. regulator.

B B

Anti-pellagrousvitamin

Anti-pellagrous vitamln called nicotine acid. called nicotine acid. Essential for the release Essential for the release ofenergy from food. of energy from food.

milk, milk, fish, fish, meat. meat.

Yeasts, Yeasts, cereal cereal gerln, germ, dried d ried vegetables, vegetables, meat, fish. meat, fish.

B' Encourages the synthesis of Bu Encourages the synthesis of C C

DD

Liver, fish. proteins and helps in the growth Liver, fish. pro teins and helps in the growth and equilibrium of the red and equilibrium of the red corpuscles. corpuscles. Anti-scorbutic vitamin. Fruit, Fruit, vegetables. vegetables. Anti-scorbutic vitamin. Aids vascular resistance and vascular resistance and strengthens resistance to strengthens resistance to infection. Hastens the healing infection. Hastens the healing of scars. Lack of this vitamin of scars. Lack of this vitamin causes scurw. causes scurvy.

300 150 175 175

200 200 80 g0 80 2OO 200 40 90 150 150 150 150 l2O 120 90 90 l2O 120 g0 80 75 75 50 50 tZO 120 20 20

CALORIE CALORIEREQUIREMENTS REQUIREMENTS Activity AClivily Intense Average Slighi Intense Average Slight

Man Man Woman Woman

Aids

Concerned with absorption Concerned with absorption and laying down of calcium and laying down of calcium and potassium in the bones. and potassium in the bones. Important for children for Important for children for bone formation and bone formation and prevention of rickets. prevention of rickets.

Calories Calories

size) 120 g. (approx. (approx. 41 120 g. 4j 0Z oz.) .) Cutlet 50 g. 22- oz.) oz.) e. (( ,, slice) 50 g. oz.) 22 oz.) g. ( ( ,, 50 leg) 100 g. 4 4 oz.j oz.) 100 g. (( ,, Egg 50 g. 2 oz.) 50 g. ( ( ,, 2 oz.S size) 100 100 g. 4 4 oz.) oz.) g. (( ,, 150 5 5 oz.) oz.) 150 g. g. (( ,, (egg-sized) 50 2 oz.) 50 g. g. (( ,, 2 oz.) Carrots 2AO 7 7 oz.) oz.) 200 g.( g. ( ,, Noodles 200 7 200 g. g. (( ,, 7 oz) oz.) Rice 150 55 oz.) oz.) 150 g. g. (( ,, cheese 30 I1 oz.) oz.) 30 g. g. (( ,, Apple 150 S oz.) 150 g. g. (( ,, 5 oz.) (large) 200 77 oz.) oz.) 200 g. g. (( ,, Banana 80 33 oz.) 80 g. g. (( ,, oz.) Orange 150 55 oz.) oz.) 150 g. g. (( ,, Lemon 100 44 oz.) oz.) 100 g. g. (( ,, tablespoon) 1515 g.g. (( ,, OZ.) *1 or.) lump) 55 g. g. (( ,, oz.) I! oz.)

(average size) Steak (average Steak Cutlet (l slice) Ham (l Ham (l leg) Chicken (1 Chicken Egg Sole (average Sole (average size) Fresh Fresh herring herring (large) (large) Potato Potato (egg-sized) Carrots Noodles Rice Gruyire Gruyère cheese Apple Pear Pear (large) Banana Orange Lemon Oil Oil (l (1 tablespoon) Sugar Sugar (l (llump)

Vitamin of growth. Strengthens Butter, milk, cheese, Butter, milk, cheese,

Metabolism of glucides. Factor of appetite and the balance of

Weight We igh 1

Food Food

Sources Sources

Vitamin of growth. Strengthens resistance to illness. Vital for the resistance to illness. Vital for the production of retinal pigment. production of retinal pigment.

Greenvegetables, vegetables, Green germ,pork cerealgerm, pork cereal fat,meat, meat,fat. fat. fat,

4500 4500 3800 3800

Child: Child:up upto to l0 10years years

b9I boy up 15 y"ur, upto 1015 years {{girl I girl

upto2oy."r, {bOY u p to 20 years [b9I t

Milk, Milk,butter, butter,eggs, eggs,

fish. fish.

eirl girl

2800 2800 2200 2200

2200 2200 1800 1800

2000 2000 3000 3000 2600 2600 3600 3600 240,0 2400

DIGESTBR. DIGESTER. DrcEsrErJR DIGESTEliR-- Piece Pieceof ofapparatus apparatus which whichworks works on on the t he pressure pressure cooker cooker principle. principle. ItIt can can be be hermetically hermetically sealed sealedand and isisfitted fitted with withaasafety safetyvalve, valve,enabling enablingfood food totobebe subjected subjectedtotohigher highertemperatures temperaturesthan thanthat thatofofboiling boilingwater. water. (See (SeePRESSURE PRESSURECOOKER.) COOKER.) 313 313

DIGESTIBILITY DIGESTffiILITY. DIGESTIBILIT6 DIGESTIBILITÉ - The The assimilability assinùlability of of DIGESTIBILITY. foodstuffs into into the the digestive digestive system. system. The The layman layman recognises recognises foodstuffs produces no no unpleasant unpleasant sensation sensation in in food as as digestible digestible ifif itit produces food the course course of of digestion. digestion. To To the the expert, expert, digestibility digestibility isis deterdeterthe by the the proportion proportion of of elements elements in in food food which which c4n Can be be mined by mined thoroughly assimilated assirnilated into into the the human human organism. organism. thoroughly This portion portion is Is variable variable in in different different foods foods and and depends depends This also upon upon the the state state in in which which they they are are eaten, eaten, upon upoa the the manner manner also in which which they they are are cooked, cooked, upon upon the the amount amount eaten eaten and and upon upon in the other other foods foods eaten eaten at at the the same sa me time, time, and and is is assessed assessed only only the on the the basis basts of of aa perfectly perfectly healthy healthy digestion. digestion. on Sorne foods, foods, such as as sugar, sugar, which which leaves leaves no no residue, residue, are are Some completely digestible; digestible; with with most most other other foods foods there there is Îs aa completely proportion of of waste. waste. proportion ln aa normal normal mixed mixed diet diet the the proportion proportion of of digestible digestible matter matter In is 97 97 per per cent cent in in meat meat and and eggs, eggs, 94 94 per per cent in in millc, milk, 79 79 per is cent in in bread, bread, 80 80 to to 85 85 per per cent cent in pulses pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. cent 95 per per cent cent of of the the fats fats in meat, meat, eggs, eggs, and and milk milk are are digestible. digestible. 95 100 per per cent cent of the the carbohydrates carbohydrates in milk milk are are digestible, 100 99 per per cent cent in in cereals cereals in in the the form fonn offlour of ftour or or bread, bread, 96 96 per per cent 99 pulses and and potatoes. potatoes. About l0 10 per per cent of wastage wastage is a in pulses than is average, especially as as most most people people eat eat more more than fair average, strictly necessary. necessary. strictly

-

Second Secondcourse course (mensa (mensaprima). prima). Various Various stews stewsand and roast roast veal. veal.

Third Third course course (mmsa (mensa secunda). secunda). Pastries Pastries and and various variaus jams, jams,

fruit fruit and and sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Under Under Charles Charles V V (1337-1380), (1337-1380), the the main main meal meal of of the the day day was was taken taken at at 99 a.m. a.m. Under Under Louis Louis XIII XIII (1610-1643), (1610-1643), dinner dinner was was served served at at midday. midday. In ln the the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, itit became became customary customary to to serve serve this this meal meal after after mass, mass, between between IIII a.m. a.m. and midday. midday. and Under Under Louis Louis XV XV (1715-1774), (1715-1774), dinner dinner became became the the main main meal meal of of the the day, day, served served at at about about two two p.m. p.m. Nowadays Nowadays the the normal normal dinner dinner hour hour is is between between 7 7 and and 8 8 p.m., p.m., though though in in France France itÎt is is commonly commonly served served much much later later than than this this and and isis often often in in the the nature nature of of supper. supper.

DINOCHAU DINOCHAU -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE

TIMES. TIMES.

DIPIOMAT. DIPLOMAT.

DIrLoMATE DIPLOMATE - Name Name given given to to several severa 1 quite quite

-

different different dishes. dishes. (See (See PUDDING, PUDDING, Diplomat Diplomat WilW, pudding, SA UCE, Diplomat Diplomat sauce.) sauce.) SAUCE,

DISH DISH STAI\D. STAND.

PoRrE-PLAr PORTE-PLAT

--

Basket Basket used used for for carrying carrying

dishes. Also Also a metal metal or porcelain porcelain mat mat on which dishes are dishes. placed. placed.

DISII\FECTING. DISINFECTING. pisrNFEcrIoN DÉSINFECTION

DIGESfIVE. plcnsrn DIGESTIF - That which whieh promotes promotes digestion. DIGESTM.

To puriff purify or or render -- To

aseptic aseptic by destroying destroying harmful germs. Disinfecting Disinfecting is obligaobligacontaminatcd areas, areas, especially especially those where where provisions provisions tory in contaminatod tory are kept. kept. In In the the case case of foodstuffs foodstuffs which are are in in the the least are

digestive juices are elements elements in the secretions secretions of the The digestive digestive glands glands which cause foodstuffs to undergo changes which render render them them assimilable. assimilable. The principle principle digestive digestive juices which are: plyalin in in saliva, pepsin pep.~in and renne! in in the the stomach, stomaeh, and rmnet are: ptyalin amylase, trypsin /rypsin and lipase in in the the pancreas; erepsin erepsin and and and lipase amylase, inver/in in the intestine. invertin juices are are taken in in the form of medicine medieine Severa! Several of these juiees to supplement secretions. Apart in the natural secretions. deficiencies in to supplement defieiencies from these these there there are, strictly speaking, medicines helpful helpful speaking, no medicines from appetite; to the the digestion. Bitter medicines increase the the appetÎte; medicines increase digestion. Bitter to alkalines in the alkalis in acids or alkalis and acids acids neutralise excess acids alkalines and stomach, not, in the exact sense oftheword, digestives. of the word, digestives. are no! but are stomach, but from the the As with coffee, coffee, from after meals meals with taken after liqueun taken As for for liqueurs digestive medical point ofview, deserve the name digestive of view, they do not deserve which is sometimes bestowed upon them. them.

chemical disinfectants degree contaminated, contaminated, chemical disinfectants are are usually usually degree condemned. and their use in such cases is condemned. ineffectual and DISPENSAIRE -- Name given in former times times to a book of of DISPENSAIRE recipes.

ptssncnoN DISSECTING. DISSECTION DISSECTING. of jointing. of jointing.

--

used instead sometimes used Term sometimes Term

volatile DISTILLATION -- Process of separating the more volatile DISTILLATION vaporisation volatile components in a liquid by vaporisation from the less volatile from (through condensation (through (through heating) followed by heating) followed (through by condensation chilling). fermented apparatus is used to distil fermented In industry, industry, very large apparatus juices or production of of comthe production in the or cereal decoctions in fruit juices fruit spirits (q.v.). mercial alcohol or spirits

province of Burgundy; aa DIJON -- Capital the ancient ancient province Capital of the specialities' town repute that has many specialities. town of high gastronomic repute gtngerAmong mustard; gingerare Dijon muslard; most famous are the most these the Among these (ham sprinkled bread; persilU (ham sprinkled with parsley); cassis; jambon persillé bread; cassis; Ia gras-doubles àd la (tripe ild la beef àd la la dijonnaise); diionnaise); beef Ia dijonnaise dijonnarse (tripe bourguignonne snails à ln bourguignonne; meure/le. meurette. bourguignonne ;ferchuse; ; fer chuse ; snails d la bourguignonne ; There in are described described in which are special dishes dishes whieh other special are many many other There are detail (q.u.). detail under Burgundy (q.v.). Ali intermeet at at the the intergastronomic world world meet the gastronomic sections of of the All sections national food year. La La Commanderie Commanderie in Dijon Dijon every every year. held in food fair fair held Ducs. des ville des des Ducs. in ln k ville headquarters in has its headquarters also has cordohs-bleus also des cordons-bleus (According commanderie of this this commanderie members of (According to the members to Curnonsky, Curnonsky, the fireplace). would out of of aa fircplace). dining-room out how to to make make aa dioing-room know how would know A bedrooms. in its its bedrooms. has wine taps in wine taps Dijon has hotel in in Dijon A certain certain hotel

plunfuQue-- Having the property property of increasing increasing DILTRETIC. DIURÉTIQUE DfiJRETIC the Pharmacopoeiae, the In the the old old Codex Phnrmacopoeiae, volume of urine. In the volume the smallage, of smallage, roots of dried roots plants mentioned are are the the dried diuretic plants diuretic parsley and and knee-holly. knee-holly. fennel, parsley asparagus, fennel, (divine), now only now only for divin divin (divine), word, short for French word, DWE -- Old Old French DIVE (the divine divine bottle), bottle), aa la dive bouteille (Ihe dive bouleille expression la in the the expression used in used Gargantua. quotation from Rabelais' Gargan/ua. from Rabelais' quotation pLoNcEoN -- Web-footed of the the birds of Web-footed birds or LOON. LOON. PLONGEON DwER or DIVER oily, flesh isis tough, tough, oily, to duck. duck. The The flesh order, simiJar similar to Gaviiformes Gaviiformes arder, and fishy. fishy. and

chub, European chub, for the the European French na name DOBULE -- Common Common French DOBULE me for ponds, and fish tastes tastes aa This fish rivers. This lakes, ponds, and rivers. found in in Jakes, which isis found which (q.v.) and same way. way. in the the same and isis cooked cookd in little like like thefha thefira (q.v.) little

DILUTING. liquid or or liqull to to aoother another liquid Adding liquid oEllvm. -- Adding DILUTING. DÉLAYER semi-solid substance. semi-solid substance.

meat of of of deer. deer. The The meat the femaJe female of The doe doe isis the BIcITE -- The DOE. BICHE DOE. similar season, is is sirnilar mating season, killed outside outside the the mating when killed this animal, animal, when this roebuck. of the the roebuck. to that that of to it. to il. are applicable applicable to for venison venison are indicated for All methods methods iodicated Ail preparing itit for for marinated before before preparing be marinated Doe meat meat should should be Doe cooking. cooking.

DINATOIRE sort of of dinner; aa sort midday dinner; for aa midday French word word for DINATOIRE -- French late unnecessary. render dinner dinner unnecessary. enough to to render substantial enough late lunch lunch substantial DINNER. dlLatin dilow Latin from the the low DII\NER. DîNER oiNrn -- Ward Word derived derived from coenare, coenare, disnare. disnare. In The evening. In towards evening. dined towards usually dined Greeks usually ancient Greeks The ancient ancient ninth or or at the the ninth was taken taken at or supper supper was dinner or Rome dinner ancient Rome teath ur, (between (between 33 and p.m.). The menu dinner menu The Roman Roman dÎnner and 44 p.m.). hour, tenth ho was follows: up as as follows: made up was made (probably Firs/ (gustatus). Eggs, vegetables (probably various vegetables Eggs, various First course course (gus/a/us). seasoned with vinegar). vinegar). seasoned with

preceding entry. entry. See preceding cHEvRETTEDOE or or ROEDEER. ROEDEER. CHEVRETTE DOE - Sec meat mammal whose whose meat domestic mammal cHIEN -- Carnivorous Carnivorous domestic DOG. CHIEN DOG. In China there isis China there countries. In eaten in in certain certain countries. edible and and isis eaten isis edible (Chow dogs) table. for the the table. fattened for dogs) specially specially fattened dogs (Chow of dogs breed of aa breed

314 314

DOUGH DOUGH In France, France, in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century, century, Chancellor ChancellorDuprat Duprat In had donkeys donkeys bred bred and and fattened fattenedfor for his his table. table. During During the the had Malta by by the blockade of of Malta the English English and and the the Neapolitans, Neapolitans, the the blockade inhabitants, reduced reduced to to eating eating domestic domestic animaIs animals like like dogs, dogs, inhabitants, cats, rats, rats, and and donkeys, donkeys, became becameso so fond fond of donkey flesh of donkey flesh cats, preferred itit to that they they preferred to beef beefand and veal. veal. During During the the siege siege of of that Paris, donkey donkey meat, meat, as asweil well as as the the flesh fleshof lessedible ofother other less edible Paris, animals, helped helped to to appease appease the the hunger hunger of of the the besieged. besieged. animaIs, preparation of Culinary preparation of donkey donkey meat meat isis the thesame same as Culinary for asfor horsemeat or young donkeys or beef. beef. The The meat meat of of young donkeys under horsemeat under two two years old very delicate pdtis, which delicate and old isis very and isisused inma making used in king pâtés, years which quality rival in quality those made made of veal. rival those of veal. in DORADE -- See See SEA SEA BREAM. BREAM. DORADE

DORMANT -- Large gold centrepiece or gold silver or DORMANT Large silver centrepiece which, which, inin former times, times, stood stood on on the the dining-table. dining-table. ItIt was former was similar similar toto an an ipergne. épergne. (Gilding) -- Term DORURE (Gilding) DORURE Term used used in in French French cookery cookery for for beaten whole yolks, thinned whole eggs eggs or or egg egg yolks, beaten with aa little little water, thinned with water, pastry and brushed onto onto pastry and other other mixtures brushed mixtures such such as Duchess as Duchess potato (see (see POT pastry-brush made POTATOES) ATOES) with potato with aa pastry-brush made of of silk silk or feathers. feathers. or

Dogfish Dogfish

DOGFISH. AIGUILLAT ArcurLLAr -- Common Common name name for for the the fish fish of of the the DOGFISH. Squalus acanthias acanthias species, species, also piked dogfish also called called the the piked dogfish or or Squa/us This fish fish is grey on is bluish grey on the the back, back, dirty dirty white white spur dogfish. This on the belly, and and has aa horny horny spike spike in front front which which sometimes sometimes on (39 inches) in reaches 1I m. m. (39 in length. length. It It feeds feeds on on fish, fish, shellfish, shellfish, reaches molluscs, and and has white, rather coarse coarse flesh. flesh. Its Its liver liver oil oil and molluscs, is used used in in the treatment of of animal skins; skins; its its own own skin skin isis used used is by turners for polishing wood and and ivory. prepared by Dogfish can can be be prepared by following following the given the recipes recipes given Dogfish (q.v.) and for cod cod (q.v.) and other large fish; its its flesh flesh can can be be made made into into for soup, which quite nutritive, especially which is is th thin pasta especially if if pasta in but quite aa soup, products, cereals, or bread bread are are added. products, given to other species is given species of of fish fish on on both The name dogfish is both sides of the north Atlantic. sides

DOTIEREL. GUIGNARD DOITEREL. curcN.lno -- European passage of European bird bird of of passage of the the wader group. group. Its Its flesh wader flesh isis rather rather tasteless. tasteless. Ail All recipes recipes for for plover (q.v.) (q.v.) are plover are suitable suitable for for dotterel. dotterel. DOUBLE-CREAM (Cheese) (Cheese) -- See DOUBLE-CREAM See CHEESE. CHEESE. DOLIBLER -- Term DOUBLER Term in in French French cookery, cookery, meaning meaning to to fold fold in in pastry, aa cut two aa layer layer of two of pastry, cut of of meat, meat, or or aa fillet fillet of of fish. fish. ItIt also also means to pastries on means to cover cover pastries on aa baking baking sheet sheet with with another another sheet sheet to prevent overbaking to overbaking by by excessive excessive heat. heat. (U.S. Double DOUBLE UCEP AN (u'S. DOUBLE SA SAUCEPAN Double boUer). DoUBLE-FoND boiler). DOUBLE-FOND -- Two Two saucepans saucepans which which fit fit together. together. Food Food which which must must not not come come in in contact placed with the the heat heat of contact directly directly with of the the cooker cooker isis placed in pan contains in the the upper upper saucepan. saucepan. The The lower lower pan contains water water which which is is brought brought to to the the boil, heating the boil, thus thus heating the contents contents of of the the pan. upper pan.

DOLIC. DOLIQUE DoLreuE -- Group of pulses, pulses, several several of which DOLIC. which are are edible. Among these these the most most important is is the the soya soya bean (q.v.). DOLMAS (Iurkidr cookery) or DOLMADES DOLMADES (furkish cookery) -- Do/mas Dolmas DOLMAS or are blanching vine vine leaves, draining draining them, are prepared by blanching them, and stuffing them with minced lamb and cooked rice. rice. The leaves are and braised braised in very little stock with oil are rolled rolled into balls and and lemon lemon juice juice added. Dolmas Do/mas can albo also be made with cabbage leaves, leaves, fig fig leaves or the leaves leaves of of the hazelnut tree. In Turkey, sheep-tail fat. Turkey, dolmas do/mas are often cooked in sheep-tail Dolma used in the Middle East for aa dish Do/ma is also the term tenn used (aubergines, tomatoes, of stuffed vegetables of mixed mixed stuffed vegetables (aubergines, tomatoes, artichoke hearts hearts and courgettes). courgettes).

pArn DOUGH, DOUGH, PASTRY, PASTRY, AND AI\D BATTER. BATTER. PÂTEBriochedoughI. 500 g. Brioche dough I. PÂTE rArrAÀ BRIOCHE-Ingredients. rnrocrn-Irugredients.500 (18 oz., g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sieved 4t (14 oz., g. (14 sieved flour, flour, 400 (1 400 g. l| cups) cups) butter, oz., li butter, 10 l0 g.g. (t yeast, 66 eggs, oz.) dried yeast, (l oz., g. (l eggs, 25 25 g. oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, It l| teaspoons salt, (6 tablespoons, salt, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant tl cup) crrp) warm wann water. The The leaven. quarter of leaven. Put Put aa quarter of the the flour flour in in aa circle circle on on the the table, with the yeast in in the middle. Dilute with with aa little little water, water, moisten and and mix, mix, keeping keeping the the dough rather rather soft. soft. Roll Roll into into aa bail, ball, make aa crossways incision on on the top, put into aa small small bowl, cover, and leave in aa warm wann place for for the the paste to to ferment ferment and and double its volume. The dough. dough. Put the rest of the flour in aa circle on the table, on the table, add (3 tablespoons) add 44 eggs eggs and tablespoons (3 and 22 tablespoons tablespoons) warm warm water, water, mix, and and knead knead the dough. Add the sugar and and salt dissolved dissolved in in aa few few drops drops of of water, water, soften soften the butter butter and add it to the dough. Add the remaining 2 eggs, eggs, one by one, one, and and mix the the dough dough weil. well. Spread Spread the dough dough on on the the table, indent, pour the indent, pour leaven the leaven centre, and into the centre, and blend itit in. in. Put the the dough into into aa bowl, bowl, cover with a cloth, and and leave in aa warm place to to rise. rise. la ter beat the dough, and keep in 5 or 6 hours later 5 and keep in aa cool cool place until needed. fi. pArn PÂTE A À BRIOCHE Brioche dough IL nnrocne COMMUNE coMMUNE -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 4t cups) sieved flour, 200 500 g. (18 oz., 4| g. (7 (7 oz., 2(X) g. oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter, 10 g. (i (-3- oz.) oz.) yeast, yeast, 44 eggs, eggs, 1I teaspoon butter, l0 g. teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugai, teaspoons salt, salt, 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant I1j teaspoons dl. (6 scant I cup) warm wann ",rp) water (or milk). water

DOM PERIGNON PÉRIGNON -- A monk of the Abbey of Hautvilliers near near Epernay, who achieved achieved fame by by discovering the process of of making making sparkling sparkling Champagne. Champagne.

He He gave gave his his name name to to a a celebrated Mo€t Moët et et Chandon Chandon Champagne. Champagne.

DOI\KEY. DONKEY. ANn, ÂNE, ANoN ÂNON -- Donkey's Donkey's meat meat is tasty ta st y and superior superior in flavour to that of horse; it is used mainly in the manufacture facture of of certain certain types types of of sausage. sausage. Wild donkey used to be considered considered choice choice venison in the Orient. Orient. According According to M. Alquier, Alquier, donkey donkey meat is less Jess fatty and richer richer in albuminoids albuminoids than equivalent equivalent cuts cuts of of beef. The domesticated domesticated donkey donkey is a descendant descendant of the Nubian The donkey. donkey. Donkey meat, meat, and and that that of donkey donkey foals, foals, was was highly Donkey Romans. Maecenas, Maecenas, it is is said, said, treated treated his valued by by the the Romans. valued guests of marinated marinated donkey donkey meat. meat. guests to to aa stew of The Persians Persians were were great great lovers lovers of donkey meat. meat. ThirtyThe two wild wild asses asses were were served served at at aa banquet banquet givor given by by Chah Chah Abbas. Abbas. two

t

315 315

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DOUGH pastry-coolg and in Car6me says, pastry-cook, and in his his Pdtissier Pâtissier Royal, Royal, Carême 'Richard spurred me as hard by speaking speaking me on to work twice as stops there, Car6me stops to me often of the great Feuillet'. But Carême does he in his on pastry does and nowhere in his learned leamed treatises on he say and pastry. But But Joseph was the inventor of of flaky pastry. that that Feuillet was Dictionnaire universel universel subject. In lnhis Favre is definite on this subject. his Dictionnaire 'the inventor of of flaky he says was 'the says that that Feuillet was de cuisine caisine he de pastry.' pastry.' of aa however, from from the the study study of of documents of It appears, appears, however, It in known not only in much earlier date, date, that flaky pastry was known also in Greece. In In aa charter Ages but but also in ancient Greece. the Middle the Middle Ages ( I 3 I I ), flaky-pastry flaky-pastry drawn up by Robert, Bishop of Amiens (1311), cakes are mentioned. pastry-cook's said, served served aa pastry-cook's who, itit isis said, Gel6e who, Claude Gelée Claude of this therefore not not the the inventor inventor of was therefore apprenticeship, was apprenticeship, in brought itit back into fashion in delicious pastry. He merely brought his own time. (modern recipe). p$try or PArE FEUILFEUILrecipe). PÂTE or puff pastry (modem Flrky pastry Flaky in the rnr6E, FEUILLETAGE FEUILLETAGE -- Prepare aa flour-and-water flour-and-water paste in LETÉE, following manner: (18 oz., g. (18 in aa 4j cups) sieved flour flour on on aa board board in oz., 4t cups) sieved Put 500 g. Put flours differ, differ, the the in the middle. middle. Since flours making aa welJ well in circle, ci rcl e, making of water to flour is variable. Into the centre exact proportion ofwater pint, in H l| teaspoons salt and and about about 33 dl. dl. (t of this circle put in @ pint, knead until the dough dough isis smooth lf cups) cups) water. water. Mix Mix and and knead until the li 25 minutes. minutes. ball and and let let itit stand for 25 elastic. Foon Form into aa bail and elastic. (8 inches) sheet about 20 cm. cm. (8 the dough into into aa sheet about 20 Roll out out the RoU (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. oz., thickness throughout. throughout. Put 500 ofeven even thickness square and of the middle of this this dough. dough. The The kneaded butter butter in in the middle of 2| cups) cups) kneaded 2i Fold flourod board. board. Fold should be kneaded on on aa lightly lightly floured be kneaded butter should as to to the butter in such such aa way way as the dough dough over over the butter in the ends ends of the the for 10 l0 minutes minutes in in aa Leave to to stand stand for enclose itit completely. Leave cold Id place. co called tourage tourage dough. This This operation turns operation isis called Give 2 tu ms to this dough. is done done in in two parts: in French and and itit is in lightly floured floured on aa lightly the dough dough with with aa rolling-pin on l. Roll Roll the 1. (24 cm. (24 to obtain obtain aa rectangle rectangle 60 60 cm. such aa way way as as to board board in in such (| inch) (8 inches) wide, and cm. (i inch) thick. thick. and 11| cm. cm. (8 inches) long, 20 cm. in three. three. 2. 2. Refold the strip in folded dough dough done by by rolling out out the the folded second tum turn isis done The The second and so so forth. forth. opposite direction, direction, and in in the the opposite for dough, leaving to stand stand for more tu turns to the the dough, leaving itit to Give ms to Give 44 more After having having been been operation. After minutes between between each each operation. 10 l0 minutes puff pastry isis ready prescribed turns, ready for for use. use. given the turns, the the puff the 66 prescribed given to spread spread the the butter butter and rolling rolling isis to turning and The The purpose of of tuming dough. evenly evenly in in the the dough. preparation, the kept in be kept in aa cold cold the dough dough should should be During During preparation, put directly could place, but not be on ice; ice; this this could place, should not be put directly on but itit should to not be be easy easy to harden and and itit would would then then not cause the butter butter to to harden cause the in the the dough. dough. incorporate incorporate in (Car0me's recipe). rocipe). PÂTE pff pastry pastry (Carême's rArr pastry or Flaky Flaky pastry or puff (about 800 put aa litron 'Having put litron (about 800 g., FEUILLETÉE, FEUTLLETAGE - 'Having FEUTLLET6E, FEUILLETAGE9., place the tips of of the tips sieved flour flour on on the the board, board, place l;Ï l? lb., lb., 77 cups) cups) sieved an your fingers into aa circle circle with with an middle and and spread spread itit into your fingers in in the the middle (4 inches); known this operation operation isis known inside cm. (4 inches); this l0 cm. diameter of of 10 inside diameter disposed in in this this the flour, flour, disposed as well" because because the as "making "making aa weil" for moistening moistening required for manner, have the the water water which which isis required manner, will will have put in itit put middle. in the the middle. (see WEIGHTS 'In the put 22 gros gros (see AND WEIGHTS AND 'In well, put the centre centre ofthis of this weil, piece of yolks, aa piece of butter butter the the MEASURES) MEASURES) fine fine salt, salt, 22 egg egg yolks, glass of Stir this this mixture mixture size and nearly nearly aa glass of water. water. Stir size of of aa walnut walnut and (using the hand only and your fingers with right hand only and the tips fingers (using the right of your with the tips of mix inin little by by little, little, mix keeping spread out) out) and, and, little keeping the the fingers fingers spread that the the the more water necessary so so that adding aa little little more water if if necessary the flour, flour, adding slightly and isis slightly dough has the right consistency moistened, has the right consistency and dough isis moistened, pressing with the hand hand on on the the fion. with the little, pressing firm. Then Then work work itit aa little, board few minutes, minutes, aa as to to achieve, achieve, after after aa few in such such aa way way as board in satin. dough touch and as smooth smooth as as satin. soft to to the the touch and as dough which which isis soft

Method. Method. Proceed Proceed as as described in in the the recipe for Brioche dough lbut I but keeping keeping it rather rather firm. fion. When intended for pies to be served as an entrie, entrée, or for

coulibiacs (q.v.), (q.v.), the the sugar sugar can can be be omitted, although although the small indicated above is is only only meant meant to small amount of sugar indicated give a little little colour to the dough. Mousseline brioche brioche dough. dougb. pArp PÂTE A À BRrocHE BRIOCHE MoUSSELINE MOUSSELINE Mousseline as described dough as described in the recipe for for ordinary Prepare the dough (2 oz., Ii cup) softened softened butter per Brioche dough 1. Add 50 g. Q (1 lb.) dough. 450 g. (1 Shape the dough dough into aa ball, bail, put it into a well-buttered well-buttered tied round has aa band band of greaseproof paper tied mould which has above two thirds. thirds. Leave in a warm waon taking care not to fill it above it, taking place of the mould. place until un til the dough rises to the top of mould. oyen. Bake in a slow oven. pArn A n'orcHou D'OFd'office (cream (cream puff pashy). pastry). PÂTE À CHOU Chou paste d'office ( lf pints, generous quart) quart) water, 200 200 g. (7 oz., FICE -- Put 11 litre litre (1;Ï nce teaspoons salt into aa pan. pan. Bring scant cup) cup) butter, and and 1 teaspoons scant (1 lb. g. (1 lb. 6 oz., 625 g. from heat heat and and add add 625 to the boil, remove from pouring well. sieved flour, pou ring it ail all in at once. Mix weil. 5| cups) sievod with aa wooden Retum to to the the heat heat and and cook, cook, stirring stirring with Return from the comes away away from dries and and cornes spoon, until the mixture dries until the spoon, heat and, stirring vigorRemove from the heat sides of the pan. Remove on size), size), putting them ously, or 14 eggs eggs (depending on ously, add add, 12 or in in22 at a time. pArE À (cream puff pastry). PÂTE A CHOU cnou puff pastry). paste (cream chou paste Ordinary chou ORDINAIRE -- Chou paste paste can caln be moistened moistened with milk instead oRDINAIRE by one. one. Stir Stir the can be be added added one one by eggs can and the the eggs of water, water, and mixture with a wooden spoon alJ all the the time. mixture pArs ÀA DUMPLING Dumpling dougb. DUMILING -- Ingredients. Ingredienrs. 500 g. douglr. PÂTE Dumplrng g. (Il oz., (18 oz., oz.,2j cups) suet (18 2i cups) 4j cups) flour, 300 g. oz., 4t cups) sieved flour, (2 oz., (shredded), 50 g. (2 (shredded), teaspoons salt, sugar, 11| teaspoons cup) sugar, oz., i+ cup) 50 g. (+ pint, scant cup) water. 2 dl. (-t put the suet Method. Put the flour in aa circle on on the table, put in the middle, and Mix to aa fairly fairly sugar, salt and water. Mix and add sugar, stiff dough, shape into aa bail, until ball, and and keep in in aa cool place until needed.

-

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Flaky pastry Flaky pastry

Flaky pastry, the most pastry. FEUILLETAGE Flaky pastry, the most FEUILLETAGE -- Flaky Flaky pastry. delicate have pastries, is to have is said said by by sorne some historians to all pastries, delicate of of ail been famous le Lorrain, Lorrain, the the famous Gel6e, called called le Claude Gelée, been invented by Claude seventeenth painter. Others by a say itit was was invented inventod bya Othen say seventeenth century century painter. chef house to the the house chief pastry-cook to Feuillet who who was was chief chef called called Feuillet of Condé. ofCond6. Carême gteat praises Feuillet, was undoubtedly undoubtedly aa great Feuillet, who who was Car6me praises 316 316

DOUGH DOUGH

well L 1. Water Water is poured poured on the the salt salt in the mrddle middle of of the weil

water 2. Milling Mixing /lour ffour and and waler 2.

paste 4. How How butter butter isis enclosed in the the paste enclosed in 4.

paste putting butter on the paste 3. 3. Method Method of putting

folded inin three rectangle ofpaste of paste isisfolded three for the time : the the rectangle Rolling out out for the second second time: 6.6. Rolling

5. 5. Rolling paste is Rolling out sheet first time: 1naa rectanguJar rectangular sheet out for for the the first the paste is rolled rolled out out in trme: the

7.7.Second Second turn: paste before turn: turn turn the rolling itit out out the paste before rolling

giventwo paste to beengiven two turns turns 8.8.Making indicate that that ititbas hasbeen Makingaamark mark on onthe thepaste toindicate

(Larousse) MAKlNG deParis Pari,s (Larousse) classes,Gaz Gaz de Cookery classes, PASTRY Cookery MAKING FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY

317 3r7

DOUGH

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be too firm This dough should neither be finn nor too soft. It is, however, better for it little on side rather soft side on the the soft it to to be aa !ittle than too hard. put 400 'Roll the out in in aa rectangular sheet; sheet; put 400 g. 'Roll the dough out (14 oz., in the middle and and fold fold the edges of (14 oz.,l| cups) butter in the dough over it. The butter should have been kneaded in a napkin napkin to extract water and to make it supple and smooth. Make sure that it is entirely thickness entirely enclosed with an even thickness quickly as of dough dough aU all round. This should should he be done done as as quickly of round. This possible. The The dough dough should he be folded folded in in 3 layers layers of equal possible. to the the same same dimensions, turning it length. Roll out again to length. RoU out before rolling rolling so so that its width becomes its i15 former width its length. Fold it again in the same way, and roll out so that it is 5 cm. (2 inches) longer than it is wide. Put it quickly onto aa plate (2 lightly and stand on crushed ice spread Iightly sprinkled with flour and pan. Cover same length and out to to coyer the same cover the and width width as as the pan. the dough with aa piece of paper, on which you stand aa plate of crushed ice. plate, tum 'After 33 or minutes remove remove the 'After or 44 minutes the top top plate, turn the dough over and and coyer dough cover again. Begin the same operation operation ail all give the you give again, after after which which you over the dough over again, dough 22 turns turns as described above. above. Put Put the dough dough on on ice ice again, turning it it as described carefully as as before. before. Give another tum turn or two, depending on the use use for which it is intended. be taken to to sprinkle the the top and and bottom of 'Care should be paste with flour the paste flour very sparingly when turning it, otherwise it goes grey in the baking. 'When the dough has been given the last tum, turn, it should be placed in the oyen used at at once, being placed oven 4, 6 or, at at the most, used last rolling out. out. If after the last If itit isis ready 20 20 or 25 88 minutes after can he be put in the oyen, oven, it will be dull dull and minutes before it can tough.' (Le pdtissier pâtissier royale.) pastry or puff pff pastry pastry made (Car0me's recipe). recipe). Flaky pastry made with oU oil (Carême's Flaky pArs FEUILLETÉE rsunrprir ÀA L'HrfiE 'Proceed as PÂTE L'HUILE - 'Proceed in the as described described in (see below), for Pudding pastry or su recipe for suet recipe et flaky flaky pastry (sec (generous j pint, lf cups) oil using oil, not lard. Add 3+ dl. (generous and turning of flaky pastry. Then cut as during the rolling and usual.' prstry or rough pff ilasny. pArE DEMI-FEUILSemi-flaky pastry Semi-flaky DEMr-FEUTLLETAGE -- Cut out puff pastry into patties, rnr6r, DEMI-FEUILLETAGE LETÉE, vol-au-vent, etc., etc., and and collect collect the the left-over pieces together vol-au-vent, ball. into a bail. making This dougtr, also called rognures, can be used for making tartlets, croustades, tartlets, tartlets, etc. onal-smme:o tartlets, boat-shaped pArr FEUILLETÉE prff pastry. PÂTE rsulrrErfn Three-DÙnute Threminute flaky pastry or puff EN TROIS MINUTEs -Ingredients. oz.,3f 400 g. (14 oz., 31 cups) sifted EN rRols MINUTES - Ingredients.400 (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. oz., 2Lo cups) cups) butter, teaspoons salt, fiflour, our, 500 butter, 1 teaspoons 2j dl. (scant 1 I pint, generous cup) water. give the dough 4 turns. Method. Mix the ingredients and give rAre FEUILLETÉE rnu[rnrEe ÀA LA Viennese flaky pastry pastry or prffpasfy. puff pastry. PÂTE g. (18 oz., 4j cups) sifted flour, oz., 41 VIENNOISE Ingredients. 500 g. vrENNoIsE -- Ingredients. (scant yolks, 2t (18 oz., g. (18 2+ dl. dl. (scant cups) butter, 22 egg egg yolks, 500 500 g. oz., 2| cups) water, 1t teaspoons salt. * pinq generous cup) water, Method. Mix half the flour with the yolks, water and and salt. blending Mix the rest of the flour with a third of the butter, blending them with aa knife. Roll out the flour-and-water flour-and-water paste to aa thin square sheet. mixture into a square of a smaller Shape Shape the butter-and-flour butter-and-flour mixture put it on it and and folding size size and and put on the other paste, enclosing it the edges. Roll out as described described in puff pastry recipes. edges. Roll ,1, L'EAU - This used for This is Flour-and-water paste. pArs PÂTE À is used Flour-and-wate paste. luting, or luting, hermetically sealing, earthenware casserole and or hermetically wann made by cocotte Iids. ft It isis made by mixing flour with enough warm cocotte lids. water 10 tain aa soft paste. Use as indicated. to ob obtain pArs rnvfn PouR TARTES TARTES -- The Leavened dougb LEVÉE POUR dough for tarts. tarts PÂTE paste for as for leavened paste for tarts the same as best recipe for tar15 is is the for leavened best recipe I. Brioche dough 1. g.(18 A more ordinary dough can be made using 500 g. (18 oz.,

sifted flour, 4 eggs, 11 4f cups) sifted l f teaspoons salt, tablespoons salt" 11| tablespoons 4! (* oz.) yeast, 2{ dl. g. (1 sugar, 10 l0 g. dl. (scant 1 sugar, } pint, generous cup) milk and and 200 g. (7 oz., oz., scant cup) butter. milk: butter. Proceed as as describod in I. in the recipe Proceed recipe for Brioche dough 1. pAm À pasb or pastry psstry dougb dogh 1. roNcrn FINE -A FONCER Fine lining paste I. PÂTE (l I oz., 4f cups) sifted sifted flour, 300 g. (Il Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 4t Ingredients.500 (f pint, pint, 3 cup) water, 50 g. (2 l$i- cups) butter, l I egg 1 It Q oz., U ddl.l. Ü teaspoons salt. ",rp) I cup) fine sugar, 1| teaSp()0I1S Method. Spread the flour in a circle on the board, make a well in the middle and and put in in the egg, egg, butter, water, sugar, ingredients together and incorporate incorporate the and salt. Mix these these ingredien15 flour, little by little. roll the paste into a bail, ball, wrap in a c1oth, cloth, and Knead twice, roH plaoe until ready for use. keep in a cold place Lining paste should always be made several hours before it is The less as it quickly it is needed. The less it is is handled the better, better, as becomes tough. pArn (tart pasfry). PÂTE pastry dough fi II (tart Ordinary paste or pastry Ordinary lining paste g. (18 oz., oz.,4j cups) À Ingredients. 500 g. roNcen ORDINAIRE oRDTNATRE -- Ingredients. A FONCER pint,t, g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter, 2 dl. (f pin 250 g. sifted flour, 250 teaspoons salt. scant cup) water, lf teaspoons Method. Proceod as described described in the recipe recipe for Fine lining paste. Pastry dougb dou$ for bot hot or cold pies -- sec see PASTRY. (Car0ne's recipe). pastry (Carême's recipe). or suet sret flaky flaky pastry hdditrg pastry or pArs FEUILLETÉE PÂTE BOEUF --'Remove 'Remove skin and reurLl-nrrn A LA GRAISSE cRArssE DE BoEUF (l lb.) of suet, chop it up g. (l up very finely and fibre from 450 g. fibre pound good olive oil. Add in aa mortar with with 1I tablespoon good pound in tablespoons oil, little by little, as as you pound it. several more tablespoons This gives it body and and softens it, so so that the This the suet becomes as soft and easy to work as butter. butter. as place of proportions. 'Proceed to use itit in place 'Proceed of butter, in in the same proportions. 'Lard can be used instead instead of of oil and by using suet and lard equal proportions, very good puff paste is obtairled, very in equaJ must be eaten hot.' agreeable to the palate, but it must (See suitable for entrée This type of puff paste is entrie pies. is sui table for pies. (Sec TOURTES (PrES).)

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FLAKY PASTRY.

pArs ÀA SAVARIN Savarin dmgh 1. L PÂTE Ingredients. 500 snvmrN - Ingredienls. 500 g. (18 oz., 4| cups) sifted (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) sifted flour, flour,250 oz., generous 250 g. butter, 50 g. (2 oz., oz., cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 1 teaspoons salt, 10 l0 g. teaspoons salt, (* oz.) yeast,6 to 8 eggs, 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant cup) milk. Method. Dissolve the yeast in in about 2t 2| dl. (scant I pint, generous a third of the flour. IoI.t:IIt:HJU:S cup) warm water, adding it to a Blend and leave to rise until the leaven more than doubles doubles its i15 volume. Spread the rest of the flour in a circle on the board, make add salt and and two thirds of the eggs. a well in the middle and add Work the mixture by hand give it more body, hand to Work to give body, then add rest of the eggs and and the milk. milk. Knead until the paste no the rest longer sticks to the hands. and pour in the leaven. Blend the Add the butter quickly and mixture to to make it smooth and, last la st of ail, all, add add the the sugar. cover with aa c1oth, Put the dough in aa bowl, coyer cloth, and stand stand in a cool place. Leave until the following day. mould, is A mould with aa special border, border, called callod a savarin mould, cake. Butter the mould and and half-fill half-fill it used for baking this cake. Stand in a warm place and leave the dough with the dough. Stand oven to rise until it completely fills the mould. Bake Bake in aa hot oyen 20 to to 35 35 minutes, according to size of the mould. mould. from 20 to the size pArs ÀA SAVARIN Savarin fi. PÂTE Savarin dugb IL s,lvmrx - This This is is aa shorter formula. The ingredients are identical. identical. Put sifted flour in a bowl. Mix the leaven and ard the dough Put the sifted in the order described described ab above. Add the melted butter, still in the order ove. Add sugar, and Add the the leaven and and sugar, and use at warm, to the dough. Add warm, to once. dou$ Ill. III. pAre 500 g. PÂTE À SAVARIN Ingredients. 500 sevmnl - Ingredients. . Savarin doogb 4| cups) sifted sifted flour, 375 375 g. (13 oz., generous l! lj cups) (18 oz., 4t

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DOUGH DOUGH Cr0pe Crêpe batter batter (sweet). (sweet), pArs PÂ'Œ A À IANNEQUETS PANNEQUETS - Put Put 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,2t oz., 2i cups) sifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., ti cup) cup) fine fine sugar sugar and aa pinch pinch of of salt into a bowl. bowl. Add Add 6 whole who le eggs. eggs. Stir Stir the the mixture with with a a wooden wooden spoon spoon until unti] smooth. smooth. Dilute Dilute with with 7+ 7~ dl. (l+ (I~ pints, pints, lf l~ pints) pints) boiled boiled milk miLk flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, orange, or or lemon, lemon, depending on the the nature nature of of the the pancakes. pancakes. Add Add 1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter heated heated to to noisette noisel/e colour eolour (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) and and I1 tablespoon brandy brandy or rum. Blend well. weil. Cussy batter. batter. pAre PÂ'Œ A À cussY cUSSY - Ingredients. Ingredients. 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., OZ., scantcup) scantcup) rice lice flour, flour, 77 whole eggs, 65 g. (21o2.,5 (2i OZ., 5 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, I1 tablespoon vanilla-flavoured salt. vanilla-flavoured sugar, sugar, aa pinch pinch of ofsalt. Method. Method. Put the eggs, eggs, sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar, sugar, and salt into into a basin. Whisk the the eggs over a low low heat. When When the the mixture mixture is well weil whisked, add the rice flour flour and melted butter. butter. Batter Batter for for soufr6 soulHé fritters. fritters. pArp PÂ'Œ A À BEIGNETs BEIGNETS sotrrrr.fs SOUFFLÉS Prepare in as Chou paste in the the same way way as paste d'ffice, d'office, adding 44 teaspoons teaspoons sugar sugar for the proportions proportions indicated in in that tha t recipe. recipe. Batter Batler for for Vienna Vienna fritters. fritters. pArs PÂTE A À BEIGNBTS BEIGNETS vIENNoIS VlENNOlS losing for Brioche dough using Proceed Proceed as as described described in the recipe for (18 o2.,4| scant cup) 500 g. (l8 oz., 41 cups) sieved flour, flour, 200 g(7 g (7 oz., seant yeast,2l salt, butter, butter,66 eggs, eggs, 20 g.G g. (1 oz., oz., I1 cake) yeast, 2t teaspoons teaspoons salt, (6 tablespoons, scant I cup) Illab]espoon tablespoon sugar sugar and I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) milk. milk. pArs A g. (18 Galettebatter. Galette blltter. PÂ'Œ À clrBrrrGALET'Œ - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., (13 oz., generous generous lI g. (13 4f cups) sifted flour, 4tcups)sifted flour, 375 g. II cups) butter, butter, g. (t (+ pint, 1 tablespoon) fine 15 g. l+ dl. (i li dl. pint, t~ cup) water, water, 15 OZ., 1 fine G oz., sugar and and 11 teaspoons teaspoons salt. Method. Mix as described described in the recipe for Fine lining Iining paste. paste. stand without kneading. Leave Roll the dough into a ball baIl without Leave to to stand in a cool place for 2 hours. it to Give the dough 3 turns, leaving Icaving it to stand for for l0 10 minutes minutes before between belween each turn. Leave to to stand for for a a few few minutes before use. galettes (biscuits). A PErIrEs salted galettes for little Batter Batier for IIt1Je salted PÂ'Œ À PETITES @iscuits). pArs (9 oz., g. (9 sifted o2.,2| cups) sifted cALErrEs SALÉES sAr.EEs -- Ingredients. GALETTES Ingredients. 250 g. 2i cups) (6 tablespoons, (4 oz., g. (4 tablespoons, seant scant dl. (6 oz.,lt cup) butter, butter, 1I dl. flour, 100 g. (l oz., and l! g. (1 fine sugar sugar and milk, 25 25 g. o2.,22 tablespoons) !1 cup) milk, tab]espoons) fine "up) teaspoons teaspoons salt. well in in the the flour on on aa board, Method. Pour the flour Pour the Method. board, make aa weil put the it. Add Add the the butter, and salt salt into into il. middle and and put sugar and middle the sugar Knead aIl slightly warmed. warmed. Knead all has been been slightly and the the milk milk which which has and for leave to to stand stand for ball, and leave ingredients together, the ingredienls together, roll into aa baU, minutes. 30 minutes. (i inch) Prick inch) in in thickness. thickness. Prick to t1c-. Roll the the dough out out to cm. (± Roll (2-inch) 6-cm. (2-inch) out with with aa 6-cm. with aa fork. fork. Cut Cut out the surface with over the galettes on and metal tray tray and pastry-cutter. Put on aa metal Put the the galettes round pastry-cutter. round oven for about about 10 minutes. bake in a hot oyen pArs À (13 oz., g. (13 oz., A GÉNOISE /ngredients.375 ctNotsn -- Ingredients. 375 g. Genoese batter. PÂ'Œ (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) cups) fine fine sugar, oz., 2i flour, 500 500 g. 3$ cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 3! flavouring. (7 OZ., 16 eggs, eggs, flavouring. g. (7 melted butter, butter, 16 scant cup) melted 2A0 g. oz., seant 200 very slowly slowly and cook cook very sugar and and eggs, eggs, and the sugar Method. Blend Blend the Method. pan of until the hot water. Whisk Whisk until of hot heat or or over over aa pan low heat over low over gently heat. Stirring Stirring gently Remove from from heat. ribbon. Remove mixture makes aa ribbon. and melted flour and flavouring, flour add the flavouring, wooden spoon, add with aa wood en spoon, with pouring the latter in in aa small small thread. Put into buttered, butter, pouling hot oven. oven. in aa hot floured tins tins and and bake bake in floured vanilla sugar, sugar, with vaniJla flavoured with be flavoured may he batter may Genoese batter Genoese peel, or liqueur. or liqueur. lemon or or orange orange peel, extract, lemon vanilla extract, pAre ÀA GOUGÈRE as described described Proceed as couctnn -- Proceed Gougbre batter. PÂTE Gougère paste. to After adding adding eggs eggs to chou pas the recipe recipe for for Ordinary Ordinary chou in the in te. After generous 22 cups) (9 oz., g. (9 cups) paste, finish 250 g. oz., generous finish off off with with 250 the paste, the small dice. dice. in very very small Gruydre cheese cheese eut cut in Gruyère pArr ÀA MANQUÉ-Ingredients. ( I 8 oz., g. (18 oz., 500 g. u.LNqu6 - .Ing r edient s. 500 batter. PÂTE Manqu6 blliter. Manqué g. (14 oz., flour, 300 300 g. g. (14 cups) sifled sifted flour, 400 g. 2| cups) o2.,3| cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 400 2i 3! cups) yolks, ]6 egg (11 beaten egg 16 stilHy stifly beaten l$ cups) cups) butter, butter, 18 18 egg egg yolks, oz., It (J 1 oz., (scant I cup) rum. whites, 3 tablespoons cup) rum. tablespoons (seant! whites,3 yolks and until and the the sugar sugar in in aa bowl bowl until Method. Cream the yolks Cream the Method. flour, light. Add Add the the rum rum and and flour, white and and lighl. the mixture mixture becomes becomes white the

butter, butter, 3 tablespoons tablespoons fine fine sugar, 20 20 g.G g. (1 oz., oz., I1 cake) yeast, yeast, 88 eggs, I1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant *~ crrp) cup) milk, milk, lj 1t teaspoons teaspoons

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fine salt. salt. Method. Method. Put the sifted flour in a bowl, bowl, make make a well in the the middle and and put in the yeast. yeast. Moisten the yeast yeast with with the the warm milk and and stir. Add the eggs one by one, mixing the the wann paste hands to blend blend well. weil. Soften the the butter, butter, divide divide paste with the the hands it into small put them on the paste. Cover Coyer the the sm aU pieces, and put bowl warm place place to ferment until untiJ the dough bowl and stand in a wann doubles its volume. blend in the the butter butter and Add the salt. Knead the dough to blend so until the dough dough acquires sufficient body continue to do so to be be lifted lifted in one piece. piece. Add the the sugar and and knead a a few blend well. weil. minutes longer to blend dOllgh [V. IV. pArn PÂ'Œ A À slvlnIN SAVARIN - Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500 g. g. Savarin dough (18 (l8 oz., 4j 4t cups) sifted flour, 350 g. g. (12 (] 2 oz., OZ., lf 1 ~ cups) cups) butter, butter, g. (i 2 teaspoons teaspoons sugar, l0 lOg. Goz.) yeast, 7 eggs, eggs, I1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, spoons, scant seant It cup) milk, 1t teaspoons teaspoons fine salt. Method. Method. Prepare a a leaven, leaven, using a a quarter of the the flour, small bowl, the yeast and the warm wann milk. Put this leaven in a smaU bowl, coyer, and stand in a warm place to ferment. cover, Mix of the flour with half M ix the rest of half the butter, butter, the eggs, and the salt. Blend weIl, well, kneading the paste. Add the leaven, the rest which has been softened, rest of the butter, which softened, and and the sugar. Continue Continue to knead the dough for a a few few moments. pasfi I.I. pArs $cHu SUCRÉE sucnfu - Ingredienls. Sbort PÂTE SÈCHE Ingredients. 500 500 g. Short pllslry g. (7 oz., scant cup) butter, 4| cups) sifted flour, 200 g. butter, (18 oz., 41 (5 OZ., g. (5 eggs, 150 g. oz., 1 3 eggs, orange t cup) fine sugar, Ii tablespoon orange blossom water or 1 orange extract. blossom water teaspoon orange I teaspoon described in the recipe for Fine lining Method. Proceed as described paste I. paste or pastry dough 1. pArE sucRÉE (9 oz., g. (9 II. PÂ'Œ sucnfu -- Ingredients.250 Short pastry paslry n. Ingredients. 250 g. (3 oz., g. (3 75 g. oz., 66 tablespoons) sugar, 2t cups) flour, 75 sifted flour, 2± cups) sifted small pinch of salt, (7 oz., g. (7 egg, aa small butter, 1I egg, oz., scant cup) butter, 200 g. lelTIon peel peel or vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. lemon well in in the the flour in in aa circle, circle, make aa weil Method. Spread Spread the flour salt, and put in softened butter, butter, salt, sugar, well well softened and put in the the sugar, centre and exception of flour, into the exception these ingredients, with the egg. Mix these egg. paste as the paste the flour, flour, kneading the Incorporate the aa soft pa!:te. Incorporate soft paste. it hold together. enough to make it little as as possible, only enough ou! and cut as desired. Leave for 2 hours, roll roU out, pArs À (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. A BABA slsA, - Ingredients. Baba hatter. Ingredients. 500 batter. PÂTE Baha (ll OZ., llcups) butter, g. (11 oz., generous I±cups) 4|cups) flour, 300 g. 41 cups) sieved flour, yeast, I! tablespoons g. (~ tablespoons sugar, cake) yeast, 77 eggs, 20 g. oz., 1I cake) eggs, 20 G OZ., (half (a oz., ~t cup) half), dl. g. (4 and sultanas sultanas (ha cup) raisins and 100 g. If and ha If), 1I dl. salt. (6 tablespoons, 2| teaspoons teaspoons salt. wann milk, milk, 2t scant ~t cup) warm tablespoons, seant (6 the dough for Savarin dough. When the Proceed as as for Savarin dough. Method. Proceed Pour into and sugar. sugar. Pour raisins, sultanas sultanas and is is made, made, add add the the raisins, the moulds. filling only only one one third of the baba moulds, filling buttered baba like savarins. Bake in hot oyen, oven, Iike Bake in aa hot pour over syrup flavoured over them thern sugar sugar syrup When cooked, pour When cooked, with liqueur. with pprtrs G pAm ÀA PETITS cAreA,trx for smaG biscuits. PÂ'Œ tea biscuits. 'ŒAUX Dalter Batter for small tea (ll oZ., g. (II (18 OZ., oz., sifted flour, g. (18 4| cups) flour, 300 300 g. oz., 4i Ingredients.500 cups) sifted Ingredients. 500 g. yolks, 1 tablespoon whole egg, egg yolks, cups) sugar, sugar, 1 whole eE& 44 egg l:t cups) orange blossom blossom wa water. orange ter. knead itit manner, knead in the the usual usual manner, dough in Method. Mix Mix the the dough Method. place in aa cold cold place and leave leave it it to to stand stand in twice, roll itit into into aa ball, ball, and twice, for 1I or or2hours. 2 hours. for inch). Cut Cut of 1t cm c- (t(l inch). out the dough to to aa thickness thickness of Roll out the dough Roll on aa baking baking tray tray cutters. Put Put them them on into biscuits biscuits with with pastry cutters. into with halved halved almonds, almonds, egg. Decorate and brush Decorate with and brush with with beaten beaten egg. peel, and oven. When When hot oyen. and bake in aa hot cherries and and candied candied peel, bake in cherries gum of gum remove from oven, brush brush with with aa solution solution of ready, remove from the the oyen, ready, and boiled boiled down down arabic, or boiJing milk mixed mixed with with sugar sugar and boiling milk ara bic, or this manner, manner, the the biscuits biscuits to aa syrupy syrupy consistency. Treatod in in Ihis to consistency. Treated keep better. keep better CREPES. Cr0pe batter batter -- See See CRÊPES. Crèpe

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DOUILLET DOUILLET and mix. mix. Fold Fold in pour in in the the stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten whites, whites, and and pour in the the and melted. butter. melted. butter, Butter àd manqué manqui moulds, moulds, dust pour in dust with with flour, flour, pour in the the Butter mixture and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. mixture pArs À MAZARIN Mazarin batter. batter. PÂTE MAzARTN - Mixture Mixture of of baba baba and and Mazarin proportions. brioche dough dough in in equal equal proportions. brioche paste is This paste plain genoese genoese cake is usually usually baked baked in in plain cake tins. tins. This pAre ÀA BISCUITS Fine spollge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter. batter. PÂTE Brscurrs FINS FrNS Fine g. (18 (l 8 oz., (yolks Ingredients. 500 500 g. oz., 2i 2f, cups) cups) fine fine sugar, l0 eggs eggs (yolks sugar, 10 Ingredients. (4o2., and whitcs whites separated), g. (4 g. separated), ]125 cup) sieved flour, 125 125 g. sieved flour, and 25 g. OZ., ]I cup) (4 OZ., (l OZ., potato flour, g. (] o2.,31cuP) potato flour, 25 25 g. vanillao2.,2 tablespoons) vanilla(4 2 tablespoons) flavoured".rp) pinch ofsalt. sugar, small of salt. small pinch flavoured sugar, yolks with Method. Blend Blend the the yolks with the the sugar, sugar, vanilla vanilla sugar, sugar, Method. and salt salt with with aa wood wooden spoon. When quite When the the mixture mixture is is quite and en spoon. smooth add add the the whites, whisked to to aa stiff stifffroth, whites, whisked and then add add smooth froth, and potato flour. flour. the flour flour and and potato the pAm ÀA BISCUITS Italian sponge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit balter. batter. PÂTE Brscurrs Italian ITALIENS - Ingredients. (9 OZ., Ingredimts. 250 g. (9 250 g. o2.,2 cups) lump lump sugar, sugar, ITALIENS 2 cups) (yolks and eggs (yo]ks and whites whites separated), g. (4 (4 OZ., separated), 125 125 g. oz., 1I cup) 44 eggs sieved flour, flour, salt. salt. sieved Method. Put pan, moisten Put the the sugar sugar in (6 in aa pan, moisten with with 1 dl. dl. (6 Method. tablespoons, seant scant ~ cup) water, water, cook cook to to hard hard bail bafldegree tablespoons, degree ".rp)to cool to half its temperature. (see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and allow allow (see lO cool to half iLS yolks, then Add the the yolks, flour and then the the flour and salt, salt, and and fold fold in in the Add stifly beaten whites. stiffiy beaten whites. pAre ft.A BISCUITS Ordinary spooge sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit balter. batter. PÂTE Brsctrrrs Ordinary (9 OZ., oRDINATRES -- Ingredients. g. (9 generous cup) 250 g. cup) fine fine oz., generous ORDINAJRES Ingredients. 250 (yolks and (5 oz., sugar, 88 eggs g. (5 eggs (yolks whites separated), 150 g. oz., li lf, and whites separated), ]50 sugar, cups) sifted flour, salt. sifted flour, cups) Method. Proceed as described in the recipe for for Fine sponge Melhod. Procced as Fine sponge cake or or hiscuil biscuit halter. batter. cake pArs ft.A BISCUITS Reims sponge sponge cake or biscuit Brscurrs DE Reims cake or biscuit batter. baller. PÂTE REIMs g. (1] OZ., Ingredients. 12 eggs, eggs, 300 300 g. oz., l{ cups) fine Ingredients. 12 ]~ cups) REIMS (6 OZ., g. (6 sugar, 175 175 g. oz., cups) sieved sieved flour, sugar, cups) ftour, 1 tablespoon vanilla-flavoured sugar, small small pinch vanilla-flavoured sugar, pinch salt. Method. sugar, 12 egg egg whites and and l0 into a Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, JO yolks yolks into bowl whisk over over aa low bowl and and wlùsk low heat heat until until the the mixture mixture becomes firm and smooth. firm. and smooth. Add Add the the flour flour and vanilla vanilla sugar. Mix Mix with with spoon. aa wooden wood en spoon. Swiss sponge sponge cake cake or or biscuit Swiss biscuit batter. baUer. pArs PÂTE A À Brscurr BISCUIT DE DE srvolr-Ingredients.500 (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) fine sugar, sugar, 175 g. SA VOIE Ingredients. 500 g. OZ., 2;\ g. (6 cups) sieved sieved flour, (6 o2.,1| OZ., 11: cups) flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6 o2.,1| oz., li cups) cornstarch (cornflour), 14 (separated), ] tablespoon eggs (separated). (cornflour), 14 eggs tablespoon vanillavanillaflavoured sugar. flavoured sugar. Method. sugar and and the egg Melhod. Blend Blend the the sugar cgg yolks yolks together in in a bowl until the the mixture mixture forms forms a a ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flour, flour, bowl until cornstarch, cornstarch, vanilla vanilla sugar sugar and and stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. Mix Mix quiekly. quickly. Butter sprinkle with Butter a a baking baking tin, tin, sprink]e with cornstarch comstarch and pour pour in the the mixture, mixture, filling filling two two thirds thirds of of the the tin. tin. Bake Bake in a slow slow oven. oyen. Sponge Sponge cake cake or or biscuit biscuit batter, batter, whisked whisked over heat. hea!. pArn PÂTE A ft. Brscurrs BISCUITS suR SUR r-E LE reu FEl! - Break Break 12 12 eggs eggs into into a pan. pan. Add Add 500 g. g. (18 salt. Keeping (l8 oz., OZ., 2f 2i cups) cups) fine fine sugar sugar and aa small small pinch pinch of ofsa]t. Kecping the the pan pan on on the the edge edge of of the the burner, burner, whisk wh.isk the the mixture mixture until until it it becomes becomes very very firm firm and and smooth. smooth. Still Still whisking, whisking, add add 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz., OZ., 1| 10\ cups) cups) potato potato flour. flour. Sponge Sponge fingers fillgers batter. batter. pAru PÂTE A À Brscurr BISCUIT A À LA cunrrn ClJILLER Ingredients.500 sugar, 375 g. Ingredienls. 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.,2tcups) OZ., 2~cups) fine finesugar, g. (13 (13 oz., oz., 3| 3;\ cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 16 16 eggs cggs (separated), (separated), 1 tablespoon tablespoon orange orange blossom blossom water. water. Method. Melhod. Mix Mix the the egg egg yolks yolks and and the the sugar sugar in in a a bowl, bowl, creaming creaming the the mixture mixture until unti! it it forms forms a a ribbon. ribbon. Add Add the the flavouring, flavouring, mix mix in the the flour, flour, and and fold fold in in the the stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. whites. Pour lf-cm. (f-inch) Pour the the mixture mixture into into aa pastry-bag pastry-bag with with aaIt-cm. (~-inch) nozzle. nozzle. Pipe Pipe the the biscuits biscuits onto onto strong strong paper paper and and sprinkle sprinklc with with plenty plenty of of fine fine sugar. sllgar. Shake Shake off off the the surplus surplus sugar by by lifting lifting the the ends ends of of the the paper. paper.

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Moisten the (which the biscuits with aa few few drops biscuits with drops of of cold cold water water (WhlCh Moisten will ensure ensure beading) beading) and and bakc bake in in aa very very slow slow oyen. oven. will

(Pry au DOUILLET or or COCHON COCHON AU plre) AU PÈRE PDRE (Pig ru père) DOUILLET Popular dish dish of of an an eartier earlier age. age. Pierre Lune, esquire Pierre de de Lune, esquire of Poplliar of household of (173,1-1803) gives the household gives of the the Prince Prince de de Rohan Rohan (1734--1803) the following recipe; the folJowing recipe: the 'Cut the pig into pieces. Blanch pieces and the pig into pieces. Blanch the the pieces and interlard interlard 'Cut pork fat partly from partly with pork fat eut cut partly from the the outer outer layer layer and and partly with from the the beJly. belly. Put Put them them in in aa cloth cloth and and season season with with salt, salt, from pepper, whole green lemons cloves, nutmeg, nutmeg, bay whole c]oves, bay leaves, leaves, green pepper, and spring spring onions. onions. Cook pot with Cook in in aa pot with stock stock and and aa IiU]e little and white wine. wine. Make Make sure sure tbat that the the finished finished dish dish isis highly white seasoned. Leave to to stand stand until until ]ukewarm. lukewarm. Serve Serve with seasoned. with slices slices of lemon.' oflemon.'

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DOUZ,IL or DOUSlL DOUSIL-- French word for for the wood wooden spigot DOUZIL en spigot plug the used to to plug the ho hole in the the vat vat from from which which the the wine wine is is used le in (See CONFRÉRiES extracted. (Sec CONFRERIES VINEUSES, la la Confrérie Confririe extracted. des tire-douzils.) tire-douzils.\ des

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DOVE. COLOMBE coLoMBE DOVE.

j

i

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l| 11

(ll

and is is very sweet. sweet. (See PEAR.) and

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DRAFF. DRÈCHE onicne - By-product By-product of barley DRAFF. barley used used in in brewing. It is also used for fodder. usod for It

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DRAGOhIET. DOUCETTE DoucETrE - Another for corn corn salad DRAGONET. Another name name for (q.v.). (q.v.).

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DRAINING. ÉGOUTTER 6courrm. - Draining Draining off off excess excess liquid DRAINING. liquid from foodstuffs which which have been washed, washed, or blanched in in boiling water and cooled under running running water. (poultry, game, and DRESSING (poultry, and fish). fisb). HABTLLAcE HABILLAGE -- Poultry game are or winged winged game are dressed dressed by or by being being plucked, plucked, drawn, singed, trimmed, trimmed, and and trussed. trussed. The dressing of fish consists singed, dressing of fish consists gutting, and scaling, gutting, and trimming. of scaling,

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DRINKING DRINKING STRAW.

cHALr.nilEAU Hollow stem ofstraw, of straw. CHALUMEAlJ - Hollow glass, metal, pap€r, paper, or plastic used used for drinking drinking cold drinks.

DRIPPING DRIPPING PAN. PA.:'I/. rtcsEFRIrE LÈCHEFRITE - Rectangular Rectangular pan, pan, usually of spit. The juices of metal, metal, placed under under food food roasted roasted on on aa spit. juices of of the roast drip drip into the pan.

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See PIGEON. - Sec

DOYENNE -- Variety of pear which of pcar which melts in the the mouth mouth DOYENNÉ melts in

DROMEDARY. DROMEDARY. nnou.loArRn DROMADAfRE - Camel (q.v.) with only one hump.

DRUM. especially DRUM. EsrAcNoN ESTAGNON - Container Container in which liquids, especially oil, are transported. transported.

DRUPE DRUPE - French term for a fruit with a single single stone.

DRYING. DRYING. orssfcnm. DESSËCHER - Dehydrating Dehydrating a solid solid of any kind by by

putting putting it it on the stove for a few seconds. Thus green vegevcgetables boiled boiled in in salt water are dried or, more more accurately, dehydrated when they are stood for a very short short time over aa hot hot flame flame to to evaporate excess moisture absorbed by by the the vegetables vegetables during cooking. cooking. When they they have have been been dried, the vegetables vegetables are tossed tossed in in butter. bu 11er. In In France, France, the the term term dessicher dessécher is is also also used used of of cooking cooking

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panadas panadas and dough dough on the the stove. stove. The The term term 'drying' 'drying' is is not not synonymous synOn)TI10US with with 'reducing', 'reducing', which refers refers only on]y to to the the process process of boiling boiling down down certain certain liquids liquids so that that they they are reduced reduced in in volume. volume.

DUBARRY DUBARRY (A (A LA) LA) -- Garnish Gamish for for meat mcat which which comprises comprises small smaU flowerets flowerets of of cauliflower cauliflower covered covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled with with grated grated cheese cheese and and breadbreadcrumbs. crumbs, and and browned. browned.

DUBLIN DUBLIN BAY BA Y PRAWNS PRA WNS (Italian, (Italian, scampi). scampi). LANGousrrNE LANGOUSTINE -

Common Corn mon names names for for the the Nephrops Nephrops norvegicus. norvegicus. This This shellfish, shellfish, 320

DUCK Rouen duck the Rouen exceeds exceeds 2 2 ke. kg. @i (4~ lb.) lb.) in in weight, weight, whilst whilst the (5+ lb.). 2ike. weighs weighs about 2~ kg. (5~ quality The Roum Rouen duckling owes its reputation reputation to the fine quality It is of its flesh ftesh and and also to the method by which it it is is killed. It is guinea-fowl, all other fowl (except guinea-fowl, smothered, smotbered, not bled as are ail like shot, like is often shol, which in the south-western part of France is game). The fact none of its blood before being fact that it loses loses none gives red and and gives stay red duck stay cooked makes the flesh ftesh of the Rouen duck connoisseurs. flavour much prized by connoisseurs. it a special ftavour

the size of a prawn, prawn, is orange in colour with whitewhiteabout the cooking. tipped claws and legs. It does not change colour in cooking. tipped They are are prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as shrimps shrimps and They hors-d'oeuvre. served as hors-d'oeuvre. AIl recipes for freshwater crayfish, and shellfish shellfish generally, All are suitable suitable for for Dublin Dublin Bay Bay prawns, prawns, which which can can also also be are prepared d à I'amiricaine l'américaine or d à la bordelaise. bordelaise.

are rarely killed without without bleeding are killed Ducks which which are Ducks bleeding are Killd in marketed in the U.S.A. Killed in this this manner, they should development of of the development day to to avoid avoid the same day cooked the the same be be cooked dangerous toxins. food are are Aylesbury duck, Other breeds of ducks raised for food Other and Roum duck duck and to the Rouen has aa certain similarity to which has aa bird which greatly appreciate; black Cayuga, the black appreciate; the English greatly the English which the which very Great American duck, duck, and and is is aa very called the Great which is which is also called small bird Peking duck, duck, aa small large bird flesh; Peking bird with delicate ftesh; with delicate large yellow feet feet and and bill, bill, which and bright yellow with with yellow plumage and in quality. is excellent excellent in is ke. at about about 2-t 2tr kg. are sold sold at ducks are In the the U.S.A. U.S.A. domestic ducks In (4 lb.). (5+ lb.), l* kg. kg. (4 lb.). Wild Wild ducks ducks are are lb.), ducklings ducklings at at about about li (5-t hunting season. The most most during the season. The the hunting large numbers during shot in in large is the the Canvasback. prized is the by the ducks can be determined determined by The age and tenderness of ducks pinions and should be and under-bill -- these their pinions these should ftexibility flexibility of their back easily. easily. to be bent back soft enough enough to be bent generally thought that the the duck, duck, thought that It isis generally Duck Duck breeding. breeding. It places raised in in places be raised only be can only an aquatic animal, can being being an aquatic animal, opinion isis banks. This This opinion river banks. or on on river near water situated situated near water or poultry-breeders have have proved. as many many poultry-breeders erroneous, erroneous, as mainly around around raised mainly duckling isis raised Rouen duckling The The famous famous Rouen The you will river or or even even aa spring. spring. The find aa river will not find Yvetot, Yvetot, where you ducks pdtis are from the the ftesh flesh of of ducks made from celebrated duck pâtés are made celebrated duck running water. water. long way from raisd aa long from running raised parts of France south-western France of south-western In and other other parts In Languedoc Languedoc and gras, of foie the manufacture for the manufacture of where ducks are are bred bred for big ducks where big foie gras, geese. This preserved This preserved like that of geese. their ftesh fat, like that of flesh is preserved in fat, gastonomes even more than than the the confit confit even more duck by gastonomes duck isis esteemed esteemed by (presewed goose). are preserved in in brine. brine. goose). Mulard Mulard ducks ducks are d'oie d'oie (preserved pdtis are from the the are made made from The terrines and and pâtés famous truffied trufred terrines The famous livers se ducks. livers of of the these ducks. described as as caneton caneton always described In duck isis always In French French cookery, cookery, duck (duckling). (duckling). 'Clean and and D',q,truFEnA -- 'Clean DuckJing cANEToN D'ALBUFÉRA Duckliry d'Albuféra. d'Albuf6ra. CANETON pieces of of uncooked uncooked young ducklings. 12 pieces truss Cut 12 very young ducklings. Cut truss 22 very (6 oz., g. (6 Melt 175 175 g. oz., slices. Melt Bayonne heart-shaped slices. Bayonne ham ham into into heart-shaped put in the ham, ham, then then in first first the i* cup) casserole, put butter in in aa casserole, cnp) best best butter garni (q.v.), (q.v.), an onion an onion the bouquet garni and add add aa bouquet the 22 ducklings, ducklings, and glass of of Madeira. Madeira. studded wine glass cloves, and and -tI wine studded with with 22 cloves, paper, bring 'Cover with piece of bring to to the the boil, boil, 'Coyer of buttered buttered paper, with aa piece glowing (q.v.) (a (a brick and paillasse (q.v.) oven with with glowing put on brick oyen and put on aa paillasse charcoal), ove and casserole, below the the casserole, hot coals above and below with hot coals ab charcoal), with are without the ducklings ducklings are too lively. lively, so so that that the heat being being too without the the heat turn the the cooked After 20 20 minutes minutes turn fried. After being fried. cooked without without being garni. bouquet garni. ion and ducklings and the the bouquet remove the the on onion ducklings and and remove ducklings, Leave drain the the ducklings, minutes, then then drain Leave for for another 20 minutes, another 20 The remove serving dish. dish. The arrange on on aa serving string and and arrange remove trussing trussing string of birds the slices slices of with the Garnish with lovely colour. colour. Garnish should be be aa lovely birds should juices, add pan juices, ham. add 22 tabletablefat from from the the pan surplus fat ham. Skim Skim off off surplus (see SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) and spoons sauce (see SAUCE) and Financiire sauce spoons (3 tablespoons) Financière 100 (4 oz.) peeled mushrooms. this sauce sauce g. (4 mushrooms. Pour Pour this small peeled 100 g. oz.) very very small (From L'art over ou cuisine francaise L'art de de lala cuisine ducklings.' (From over the the ducklings.' francaise au XIX XIX siècle.) siicle.) Duckling Braise t'lrslcnNNe -- Braise I'alsacienne. CANETON cANEToN ÀA L'ALSACIENNE Duckling ài l'alsacienne. aa Nantes dish, and and surround surround on aa serving serving dish, arrange itit on Nantes duckling, duckling arrange with with separately with has been been braised braised separately which has with sauerkraut sauerkraut which streaky this of the the dish dish with with this the border border of Garnish the streaky bacon. bacon. Garnish

Duchesse d'Angoulême Duchesse d'Angoul€me pears

DUCHESSE -- Winter pear which makes an an excellent excellent table fruit. fruit.

preparations, (A LA) -- Name given to various preparations, DUCHESSE (À especiallya A TOES, potatoes. (See POT POTATOES, especially a method of of preparing potatoes. Duchess potatoes.) Duchess

DUCHESSE MIXTURE -- Purée blended with Pur6e of potatoes blended (see POTATOES) egg yolk. yolk. It is made Duchess potatoes (see made into into Duchess and and into borders. savoury cases, etc. DUCHESSES -- Petits fours which as follows: follows: are made made as Petits fours which are (21 oz., Pound g. (21sweet almonds almonds 60 g. oz., 1-+ cup) cup) sweet in aa mortar mortar 60 Pound in with quantity of hazelnuts, egg hazelnuts, and and blend blend with with 1I egg with the the same same quantity (2 oz., white. g. (2 white. Add g. (Il (ll oz., Add 300 oz' fine sugar, 50 g. 300 g. oz., lt l{ cups) cups) fine sugar, 50 ·sugar, and (2 oz.) g.Q 50 g. oz.) chocolate. chocolate. vanilla-flavoured.sugar, and 50 i cup) vanilla-ftavoured Add Pipe thoroughly. Pipe Add to egg whites whites and and mix mix thoroughly. to this this mixture mixture 33 egg into little balls on in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. on aa baking sheet. sheet. Bake Bake in

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DUCK. many bird of of which which many DUCK. CANARD cANARD -- Web-footed Web-footed water water bird species domestic ducks ducks are are bred, bred, Varieties of species are are known. known. Varieties of domestic some plumage. of their their plumage. some for food, others others because of the beauty of Their (le canard sauvage), which which isis Their ancestor ancestor is is the the wild duck duck (le canard sauvage), found in North Africa. Africa. America and and North in Europe, Europe, Asia, Asia, North America In and Nantes Nantes ducks ducks Roum and French classical classical cookery, cookery, Rouen In French enjoy of ducks ducks types of different types the highest highest esteem. esteem. The The different enjoy the raised variety of of food incIude include Duclair, Duclair, aa variety raised in in France France for for food Rouen Rouen duck; duck; Barbary Barbary duck duck which, which, when when mated mated with with aa Rouen produces the the mulard bred which isis bred Rouen duck, duck, produces mulard duck duck which foie gras. specially gras. production of for the specially for the production offoie The (which in Barbary duck in French French ISis also also called called Canard Canard The Barhary duck (which d'Inde) raised mainly mainly in in the the southern southern and and south-eastern south-eastern d'Inde) isis raised regions someregions of of France. Its ftesh flesh isis rather rather mediocre mediocre and and isis someFrance. Its times young birds birds are are fairly fairly times too too musky musky to to be be eaten. eaten. The The young good good to have aa strong strong odour odour to eat, eat, the old are are tough and have the old tough and which, have acquired acquired their their which, itit isis said, said, they they develop develop after after they they have red red wattles. wattles. The fine, delicately delicately The Nantes Nantes duck duck isis aa magnificent magnificent bird bird with with fine, ftavoured flavoured ftesh. smaller in in size Rouen duck. duck. the Rouen flesh. It It isis smaller size than than the When hardly ever fully developed, that isis at months, itit hardly ever at 44 months, When fully developed, that 321 32r

DUCK DUCK pieces, and bacon cut rectangular pieces, and 66 smoked into rectangular smoked Strasbourg cut into Strasbourg bacon poached in sausages poached in water. water. sausages liquor, spoon Strain the the braising braising liquor, spoon sorne some over duckling over the the duckling Strain and serve serve the rest separately. the rest seoaratelv. and (hbt). BALLOTTINE Ballottfure of of duckling duckling (hot). n,lrrorrrNE DE DE CANETON cANEroN -BaUottine Bone aa Nantes Nantes duckling duckling and and carefully carefully remove remove aU all the the flesh, flesh, Bone leaving only only the Remove aU skin. Remove the skin. all sinews sinews from from flesh. flesh. Dice Dice leaving the fillets fillets and and chop chop the rest of the rest of the the meat finely with meat finely with an anequal equal the weight of of fresh fresh fat fat bacon, bacon, half half of its weight lean veal, veal, of its weight of of !ean weight (3 oz.) g. (3 (q.v.). panada (q.v.). and75 oz.) of of panada and 75 g. Pound the the whole whole mixture mixture in in aa mortar, yolks. mortar, adding adding 44 egg egg yolks. Pound pepper, and Season with with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Rub Rub this this forcemeat forcemeat Season (5 oz.) g. (5 sieve. Add Add 150 gras (duck's (duck's 150 g. oz.) uncookedfoie uncooked/oie gras through aa sieve. liver) cut cut in in large large dice dice and and briskly briskly tossed tossed in in butter, butter, 150 150 g.g. liver) (5 oz.) oz.) diced diced truffles truffies and and the the diced diced duck duck breast breast fillets. fillets. Add Add (5 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy brandy and and blend blend weil. well. 22 tablespoons Spread the the duck's duck's skin skin on on the piece of the table, table, on on aa piece of muslin muslin Spread which has has been been soaked soaked in in cold cold water water and and wrung wrung out. out. Stuff Stuff which the skin skin with the the forcemeat forcemeat and and roll roll into into aa ballottine. ballottine. Secure Secure with string string at at both ends ends and and in in the the middle. middle. with Poach the the ballottine in prepared by in stock stock prepared by using using aa veal veal Poach knuckle and and the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of the the duckling. duckling. knuckle for about about 1lft hours, Cook for hours, unwrap, glaze in unwrap, and and glaze in the the oyen. Cook oven. Garnish and and spoon spoon over over aa !ittle little of Garnish of the the braising braising liquor liquor which has has been been boiled boiled down down and and strained. strained. Serve which Serve the the rest rest separately. separately. of duckling duckling may be Hot ballottine of most of be served served with with most of the the garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) indicated indicated for for braised poultry. braised or garnishes or broiled broild poultry. The following are are the the most most suitable: suitable: châtelaine, The chdtelaine, chipolata, chipolata, godard, braised braised chestnuts, forestière, godard, chestnuts, braised braised lettuce, lettuce, or or forestiire, other vegetables braised or cooked cooked in butter. butter. (cold). BALLOTTINE Ballottine of of duckJing ducklfug (cold). BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DE CANETON cANEToN -Make in in the the same same way Make way as as hot hot baIJottine, greater ballottine, but but aa greater duck's liver liver and quantity of duck's and truffles truffies are are added to the the forceforceadded to meat. After cooking, cooking, unwrap After unwrap the the ballottine, ballottine, then then wrap wrap once once again in the same cloth very tightly, and and put to to cool cool under aa press. glaze with To serve, serve, unwrap, press. To unwr.ap, glaze with liquid liquid aspic aspic jelly, arrange on on aa dish, and arrange and surround with chopped chopped jelly. Duckling DuckJing ài la bordelaise. bordelaise. CANETON ceNrroN ÀA LA rn BORDELAISE nononrnrsn -- Stuff Stuff a duckling duckling with fine pork forcemeat mixed with the chopped chopped duck's garlic, 1I tablespoon chopped duck's liver, Iiver, aa little little shallot, shallot, garlic, chopped parsley, blanched and and chopped chopped olives; olives; seasoned seasoned with with salt, pepper pepper and and spices; and bound with 1I egg. the duckling and Truss the and fry fry in in butter in in aa fireproof dish dish until it is golden on ail g. (18 (18 oz.) white, firm all sides. sides. Add 500 g. firm cèpes which have been been trimmed, cipes which have trimmed, washed, washed, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in and seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper. Cook in aa hot oil and and pepper. hot oyen. oven. When the duckling is done, remove remove trussing string and put and put back into the dish. Pour over 4 or 5 tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown veal gravy, sprinkle with chopped parsley and and serve serve the dish dish in which it was cooked. in the Braised duckling duckJing with various garnishes. CANETON Braised cANEToN BRAISÉ sRArs6 -large Nantes duckling and put it into a braising pan Truss a large foundation of offresh bacon rinds, 1I carrot on aa foundation fresh bacon carrot and and 1I mediumon ion sliced and tossed in butter. Add a bouquet garni sized onion (q.v.) of of parsley, thyme and bay leaf. Season. Cook with the (q.v.) 15 minutes. When the duckling is is browned lid on for about 15 aIl sides, moisten with l| I-!- dl. dl. (f (t pint, 3~ cup) white wine. on all 3-!- dl. dl. (generous (generous I-!- pint, pint, 1| I-!- cups) Boil down, and and add add 3+ Boil thickened brown brown veal veal or or chicken chicken stock. stock. Bring Bring to slightly thickened the boil boil on on the the stove. stove, then then cook cook in in aa hot hot oven oyen for about 1I hour the the pan covered. covered. with the Drain the the duckling, remove rem ove trussing string, arrange on aa Drain the braising braising serving dish, and garnish. Boil down and strain the serving liquor, spoon a little little of of it it over the duck and serve serve the rest rest liquor, separately. separately. Nantes braised braised duckling duckling may may be be served served with with all ail the the Nantes

Braised BraisedNantes Nantesduckling duckling

garnishes (q.v.) (q.v.) recommended garnishes recommended for for braised braisedand and broiled broiled poultry. The garnishes most poultry. The garnishes most suitable suitable for for this this dish dish are: are: fermière, I angue do c ienne, macédoine, ma ci do ine, toulousaine. t ou I ous ain e. fe r m ii r e, languedocienne, Braised Braisod duckling duckling can can also also be be accompanied accompanied by by carrots, carrots, turnips, ail glazed turnips, celeriac, celeriac, cucumbers, glazed onions, peas, cucumbers, sm onions, peas, small tomatoes, tomatoes, etc., etc., sautéed saut6ed in in butter butter or or braised. braised. Casserole garnishes. CANETON Casserole of of duckling duckliry with with various various garnishes. cANEToN EN EN CASSEROLE(Ser,CHICKEN.) like Chicken cAssERoLE - Prepare Prepare like C hi c k encasserole. c as s e r o I e.(See CH IC KEN. ) Serve femme, paysanne paysanne or with bonne bonnefemme, garnish Serve with or sorne some other other garnish which which should should be be cooked cooked with with the the bird bird inin aa casserole. casserole. Duckling Duckling ài la la chipolata. chipolata. CANETON cANEroN ÀA LA LA CHIPOLATA cHrpoLATA - - Braise Braise the the duckling. duckling. When When itit isis nearly nearly done, done, drain drain and and remove remove trussing trussing string. string. Put Put itit back garnish back in in the the casserole casserole with with aa garnish of of 10 l0 braised glazd onions, braised chestnuts, chestnuts, 10 l0 small smallglazed onions, 10 l0 lean lean rashers rashers of of blanched blanched and lightly fried fried bacon, and lightly bacon, and and 18 18 carrots carrots cut cut down down to glazed. Boil to the the size size of of olives olives and and glazed. Boil down down the the braising liquor, strain, pour over braising liquor, strain, pour over the the duckling, duckling, and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Add Add JO l0 small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Serve garnish arranged Serve the the duckling duckling surrounded surrounded with the garnish arranged with the in groups. Pour separate groups. Pour over over the the sauce. in separate sauce. Cold CoH duckling. dnckling. CANETON cANEroN FROID FRorD -- Duckling prepared Duckling can can be be prepared in in any (see CHICKEN). any manner manner suitable suitable for for cold cold chicken chicken (see CHICKEN). DuckJing Duckliry with with olives. olives. CANETON cANEroN AUX olrvEs -- Braise AUx OLIVES Braise the the duckling, duckling, cooking cooking itit until quarters done. until three three quarters done. Strain the Strain the braising liquor, put the liquor, put g. the duckling duckling back back in in itit and and add 250 g. add 250 (9 (9 oz., l| cups) oz' I-!cups) stoned, stoned, blanched blanched olives. olives. Finish Finish cooking cooking on on aa slow slow heat. heat. Duckling Duckling can can also also be cooked with be cooked with stuffed stuffed olives. olives. DuckJing Ducklfury àt l'orange l'orange or or àI la la bigarade bigarade 1.I. CANETONÀ clNsroN A L'ORANGE, L'oRANGE, À l, LA rA BIGARADE sIclnADE -- Braise Braise aa Nantes Nantes duckling. duckling. Drain, Drain, remove remove trussing trussing string string and and arrange arrange on on aa serving serving dish. dish. Pour Pour over over bigarade prepared in bigarade sauce sauce prepared in the the following following manner. manner. Strain Strain the the braising hraising liquor liquor into into aa small small saucepan saucepan in in which which 22 lumps lumps of of sugar, sugar, moistened (3 tablespoons) with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 moistened with tablespoons) viilegar, previously been vinegar, have have previously been cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree. degree. Boil down. Add Add the the juice of of 1I orange orange and and -!-Iemon. Boil down down I lemon. Boil again again and and strain. strain. Add Add the the blanched blanched and and drained drainod rind rind of of 1I orange orange and and -!-Iemon (q.v.). shredded into into aa fine fine julienne (q.v.). I lemon shredded Duckling àir l'orange l'orange or la bigarade bigarade IL IL CANETON or ài la caNsroN ÀA L'ORANGE, r.'oRANcE, À A LA rA BIGARADE src.dnA.on -- Fry Fry the the duckling duckling in in butter, butter, keeping keeping itit aa little little underdone. underdone. Drain, Drain, remove remove trussing trussing string, string, and and arrange arrange on on aa serving dish. Dilute (6 tablespoons, Dilute the the pan juices with with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant -!-+ cup) (+ pint, pint, 1l|t cups) cup) white white wine. wine. Add Add 33 dl. dl. (-!cups) clear clear veal veal stock stock or UCE). Add (see SA or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Add sugar sugar and and vinegar vinegar cooked cooked to to caramel caramel degree, degree, as as described described above, above, and and allow allow to for aa few few moments. to boil boil for moments. Add Add thejuice of 1I orange, orange, tI lemon lemon the juice of and ove. and finish finish off off as as described described ab above. Gamish peeled slices Garnish with slices of with peeled of orange. orange. Sauce Sauce for for Duckling Duckling àd l'orange I'orange should should be be made made of of the rind the rind of bitter oranges. of bitter oranges. 322 322

DUCK DUCK pArfs DE pATE. Duck pâtés. pfltes. PÂTÉS or CANETON cANEroN-- See See PÂ Duck TÉ. pETrrsPOIS pors -* Brown Duckliry witb peasI.f. CANETON with peas caNrroN AUX Aux PETITS Brown Duckling together in in butter butter 12 l2small small onions (7oz.) onions and 200 g.g.(7 and200 oz.)blanched, blanched, together diced bacon. bacon. Remove Remove these these from panand from the the pan and inin the thesame same diced butter sear sear aa trussed Nantes duckling. trussed Nantes duckling. Brown Brown itit weIl wellon onail all butter sides. and and drain. drain. sides, pan juices with Dilute the the panjuices (6 tablespoons, with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant1-l cup) cup) Dilute white stock. (scant I pint, stock. Add Add 2+dl. dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) veal veal white

21

glazed more quickly. Cook more quickly. Cookon onaabrisk briskfire. fire.Have Haveready glazed ready24 24 smallonions, onions, half halfcooked cookedininbutter. butter. small When the theduckling ducklingisishalf halfcooked cookeddrain drainititand When andstrain strain the the liquor. Put Put the panand the duckling duckling back back into intothe liquor. thepan andadd addthe the turnips, onions onions and andsauce. sauce.Finish Finishcooking cookingininaaslow turnips, slowoyen. oven. garnishthe To serve, serve, garnish pourthe thebird birdand andpour To thesauce sauceover overit.it. pipinghot. Serve piping hot. Serve

1

and chicken chicken stock put the stock and and put the duckling duckling into into this this liquor. liquor. and (If, pints, Add 1I litre litre (Ii pints, generous generous quart) quart) fresh gardur peas, fresh garden peas, the the Add pieces of onions, pieces garni (q.v.). of bacon, bacon,and (q.v.). Season and aa bouquet bouquet garni Season onions, and add add 1I teaspoon teaspoon sugar. gently with sugar. Simmer Simmer gently with the the lid lid on. on. and When cooked, cooked, drain drain the the duckling, duckling, arrange arrange on on aa serving serving When dish, and and surround surround with peas. Boil juices with the the peas. pan juices Boil down down the the pan dish, pour over and pour over the the bird. bird. and A lettuce lettuce shredded shredded into (q.v.), or into aa chiffonnade chiffonnade (q.v.), or left left whole whole A and tied tied with with string, string, can can be peas. If be added added to to the the peas. If left left whole, whole, and should be quarters when be cut cut into into quarters when serving, serving, and and arranged arranged itit should peas. on the the peas. on

ROUEN DUCK. DUCK. CANARD cANARD ROUENNAIS RouENNArs-- See ROUEN noteunder Seenote under DUCK. DUCK. Ballottine of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. BALLOTTINE BaUottine BALLoTTTNE DE DECANETON cANEToN DE DE RoUEN -- Prepare Prepare like like Ballottine ROUEN Ballottine of ofduckling. duckling. Rouen duckling ducklirg àI lalabigarade. Rouen bigarade. CANETON cANEroNROUENNAIS noueNNln ÀALA r-^A BIcARADE -- Prepare Prepare inineither either of givanfor of the the ways BIGARADE waysgiven for Duckling Duckling I'orange. àd l'orange. Rouen duckling duckling isis rarely rarely braised, braised, but Rouen but itit can caninin fact fact be be cooked inin this this manner mannerand and isisexcellent. cooked excellent. Rouen duckling duckling au auchambertin. chambertin. CANETON Rouen cexeroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArsAU AU cHAMBERTTN -- Braise Braise the CHAMBERTIN theduckling duckling inin liquor liquor based basedon onred red wine. When When itit isis nearly nearly cooked, wine. to another cooked, put put itit ininto pan.Add another pan. Add g. (4 (4 oz.) 125 g. pork or oz.) pork bacon cut or bacon 125 cut in in large largedice, dice, blanched blanched and and lightly fried, fried, and and 24 24 mushroom lightly peeled and mushroom caps, caps, peeled and tossed tossed inin butter. butter. Boil down down the the braising Boil braising Iiquor liquor inin the pan, strain, the other other pan, strain, pour over over the the duckling pour duckling and and finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen ovenwith with the lid lid on. on. the Rouen Rouen duckling ducklirry inin Champagne. Champagne. CANETON cANEToN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AU AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMeAGNE -- Fry Fry the the duckling duckling inin butter. butter. When When nearly nearly put itit into cooked, put cooked, into an an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Dilute pan Dilute the the pan juices with (| pint, pint, li juices with 33 dl. dl. (1 l| cups) cups) dry dry Champagne, Champagne, add add aa few tablespoons few tablespoons thickened thickened brown pour over brown veal veal stock, stock, and and pour over the the duckling. duckling. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in the the oyen, oven. with with the the lid lid on. on. Chaud-froid Chaud-froil of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE ROUEN DE RoUEN -- Cook Cook the the duckling duckling in in the the oyen, oven, keeping keeping itit aa little little underdone. underdone. Remove Remove the the legs legs and and cut cut the the breast breast fiUets fillets into into strips. strips. Using Using the the carcase carcase and and the the trimmings, trimmings, roughly roughly chopped, prepare aa brown chopped, prepare (se SAUCE, brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE, Compound jelly, ftavoured Compound sauces) sauces) and and mix mix itit with with aspic aspic jelly, flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or other liqueur wine. other liqueur wine. Coat duckling fillets pieces of Coat the the pieces ofduckling fillets with with this this half-set half-set sauce. sauce. Put on grid to on aa grid to cool. cool. Decorate Decorate with pieces of with pieces of truffies, truffies, white white of hard-boiled egg, jelly. egg, and pickled tongue. and pickled tongue. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. Arrange Arrange in in aa dish pyramid shapes. dish in in pyramid shapes. Garnish Garnish with with jelly and chopped chopped jelly and surround surround the border of the border of the the dish dish with with jelly croûtons. cro0tons. Rouen Rouen duckling duckling en en chemise chemise I.I. CANTON caxroll ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE cHEMISE -- Remove Remove the the breast-bone breast-bone of of aa Rouen Rouen duckling, duckling, stuff itit as as for for Duckling àd la la rouennaise, rouennaise, and and truss truss it. it. Roast Roast as quickly as as possible, for for 88 to to 12 12 minutes. get cold. minutes. Leave Leave to get cold. Enclose the bird pork bladder, previously soaked bird in in aa large pork soaked in in cold cold water, placing the the bird bird with with the the rump rump towards towards the the opening of the the bladder. Tie Tie the the opening with with string. string. Poach Poach in a clear braising stock stock for 45 45 minutes. To serve, the bladder bladder and serve, take the duckling duckling out of ofthe proceed and proceed as described describod in the recipe recipe for for Duckling Duckling àd la la rouennaise. rouennaise. Rouen duckling II. CANETON Roum duckling en m chemise II. cfi{sroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs EN EN CHEMISE -- Remove Rernove the the breast-bone, breast-bone, stuff the duck, cHErvrrsE stuffthe duck, and and truss. truss. which has been soaked Wrap in aa cloth which has been soaked in in water water and and wrung wrung Poach in in strong out. Tie like aa galantine (q.v.). Poach strong veal veal broth broth for for 50 minutes. 40 to 50 Drain, unwrap, and and serve serve surrounded surrounded with peeled orange with peeled orange quarters. Serve sauce (see quarters. (see SAUCE) Sewe rouennaise sauce SAUCE) separately, separately. Rouen duckling with cherries. CANETON ROUENNAIS Rouen duckling with cherries. cANEToN RouENNArs AUX Aux CERISES -- Truss the the duckling and and fry fry it in aa pan cERIsEs pan with it in with butter. butter. cooked, put put it it into into an Wben it is nearly cooked, When an earthenware earthenware dish dish 250 g. Q (9 oz.) oz.) morello cherries, cherries, stoned. stoned. Dilute the pan pan with 250 Dilute the or 22 tablespoons tablespoons brown brown veal veal stock juices with with Madeira, Madeira, add add I1 or juices stock and pour pour over over the the duckling. duckling. and

Duckling with peas (Scarnari) (S c arnati) Duckling

pETrrs POIS pors - Cook Duckling II. CANETON c,c,NrroN AUX AUx PETITS Duckling with peas peas n. -

the fireproof casserole, keeping itit aa little the duckling duckling in in aa fireproof casserole, keeping underdone.

Add generous quart) fresh garden peas, fresh garden Add l'litre f litre (lf (li pints, pints, generOl!S (see PEAS). Leave to infuse for a cooked d à la la frangaise française (see few a few moments without without allowing to boil. Roast duckling. cANEroN CANETON n0n RÔTI -- Truss the duckling and and roast it it in in the the oven oyen or or on on a a spit. spit. For For cooking times times see see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking cooking timesfor roasts. roasts. Duckling Duckling with sauerkraut. CANEToN CANETON A À r,c LA cHoucRouTB CHOUCROUTE -This This is prepared in the same way as Duckling Duckling d à l'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. Surround Surround with with sauer.kraut sauerkraut braisd braised in in the the usual usual manner. Garnish with with pieces pieces of streaky streaky bacon bacon (cooked (cooked with with the sauerkraut) sauerkraut) and and saveloys, saveloys, Strasbourg or or Frankfurt Frankfurt sausages. sausages. Pour Pour the the liquor liquor in which the duckling was braised over the bird. bird. Ducklirry Duckling with turnips turnips @raised). (braised). cANEroN CANETON AUx AUX NAvErs NAVETS -Brown Brown a trussed trussed Nantes Nantes duckling duckling in butter. butter. When When it is is brown brown on on all aU sides, sides, take take itit out out of of the the pan and drain. Remove Remove the the butter butter from from the the pan pan and make make aa sauce of lj 11 dl. (|(i pint, cup) dry dry white white wine wine and and 4 dl. dl. (i pint, pint, scint scant 2'cups) 2 cups) 3 cup) espagnole espagnole sauce sauce (sen, (see SAUCE) or or veal veal stock. stock. Add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.). Place Place the the duckling duckling in in the the sauce and and simmer simmer garni (q.v.). gently. gently. Put the the butter butter in in another another pan pan and and add add to to it 33 or or 44 small small Put turnips, cut cut down down to to aa uniform uniform size. size. Season Season and and sprinkle sprinkle turnips, will enable enable thern them to to be be with I1 tablespoon tablespoon sugar, sugar, which which will with

t

323 323

DUCK DUCK

4

How to 10 carve carve roast roast duck: duck; l.1. First Firsl cut cul offthe off the legs 2. Place the lhe bird bird on on its its back back and and cut eut vertically along lhe length length of the lhe along the breastbone 3. Cut Cul offthe off lhe breast breasl meat meat in long long Ihin thin slices 4. Repeat Repeal the the operation operation on the other olher side 5. Finally cut cul offthe offlhe two wings

(Larousse)

2

5 324

DUCK DUCK poached in the oven oyen it in a bain-marie. Rouen duckliry duckJing pit6. pâté. rArn PÂTÉ DE DE cANEroN CANETON oB DE xousN ROUEN - See Rouen PÂTÉ. PATE. duckJing in port. cANEroN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS AU AU PoRro PORTO -Rouen duckliry Truss a Rouen Rouen duckling duckling and cook in in butter, butter, keeping keeping it and cook Truss a dish. Dilute on a a dish. slightly underdone. Drain and and arrange on 2~ dl. (scant I~ pint, generous cup) port, with2l the pan juices with 2~ dl. (scant ]~ pint, generous cup) thickened brown and add 2| veal gravy. gravy. Bring to the boil, simmer for aa few few moments, veal add some sorne butter and few tablespoons of this and strain. Pour aa few add separately. rest separately. sauce over the duck duck and and serve the rest sauce same way way with in the the same can be be prepared in Rouen duckling can instead of port. Madeira, Frontignan, or sherry instead Madeira, PRESSE A LA PRESSEnounNNrns À Pressed Rouen Rouen duckling. CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS Pressed Remove the legs, Cook the duckling for 18 to to 20 minutes. Remove for 18 which will stilJ few shallow incisions on the still be raw. Make aa few pepper, and and aa little legs, season with salt, salt, pepper, season with underside of the legs, pounded c1ove. Brush with butter and grill briskly. clove. Brush dish these on aa dish Carve the breast into thin slivers. Arrange these (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant standing on hot plate in dl. (6 in which which 1I dl. on aa hotplate down. Season ~ boiled down. good red has been been well well boiled red wine wine has cup) good I cup) pepper. with freshly ground pepper. good red red wine, wine, and ahd put Cut up the carcase, sprinkle with good (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) it press. Add tablespoons (3 Add 22 tablespoons duck press. it under under aa duck juice obtained, pour over the sliced brandy over the and pour obtained, and the juice brandy to to the pieces of butter the slices. on the duckling. butter on small pieces few small Scatter aa few duckling. Scatter sauce to to boil. Heat the sauce allowing the without allowing hotplate without Heat on on the the hotplate and serve. serve. Put the grilled the dish, dish, and grilled legs at each ofthe each end end of rl ROUENNAlSE RoUENNAISE -Duckling crxerox ÀA LA Duckling ài la la rouennaise. CANETON g. (4 (4 oz., Fry cup) Fry 1I tablespoon chopped in 125 125 g. oz., 1I cup) chopped onion onion in chopped Add the the to colour. colour. Add fat, without allowing allowing itit to chopped bacon bacon fat, (or duckling's livers (or or 22 chicken chicken livers liver, together together with with 1I or duckling's liver, ducks' slices. Season Season with with thin slices. ducks' livers, livers. if available), available). cut cut into thin salt pepper, sprinkle and chopped chopped parsley, with spices spices and sprinkle with salt and and pepper, pound in and in aa quickly as possible. Leave Leave until until cold, cold, pound as possible. and fry fry as as quickly mortar, with the duckling duckling with sieve. Stuff Stuff the rub tbrough through aa sieve. mortar, and and rub for this hot oyen oven for very hot in aa very it. Cook Cook in and truss truss il. forcemeat, and this forcemeat, Serve 20 of the the bird. bird. Serve on the the size size of depending on 20 to to 30 30 minutes, depending (see SAUCE). with sauce (see SAUCE). with Rouennaise sauce legs, make make To ove the remove the legs, rouennaise, rem la rouennaise, Duckling àd la To serve serve Ducklin~ grill. Cut the aa few Cut the season and and grill. in them, them, season few shallow shallow incisions in of aa breast into ers of on the the bord borders them on slivers and and arrange arrange them into thin thin slivers buttered stuffing dish with with the the stuffing middle of of the the dish Fill the the middle buttered dish. dish. FiJI grilled legs contained legs at at each each end. end. the grilled and put the the carcase carcase and in the contained in press, Chop under aa duck duck press, into big pieces, put itit under the carcase carcase into Chop the sprinkling dash of of brandy and and aa dash tablespoons brandy or 33 tablespoons sprinkling itit with with 22 or juice thus lemon some rouennaise rouennaise obtained to to sorne thus obtained lemon juice. Add Add the the juice sauce, Serve sliced duckling. duckling. Serve pour sorne over the the sliced some over sauce, blend, blend, and and pour the separately. rest of the sauce sauce separately. the rest of the Sabnis sN SALMIS sA,rltts Ài rouennaise. CANETON clr.IEToN EN la rouennaise. of duckling duckli,ng ài la Satmb of the LA and truss truss the breast-bone and the breast-bone LA ROUENNAISE RouENNAIsE -- Remove Remove the duckling. it. hot oyen to stiffen stiffen and and sear sear il. duckling. Put into aa very very hot oven to Put itit into just warrn, Leave then wipe on aa c1oth. cloth. Leave until until just warrn, then wipe on Remove on the the incisions on legs, make make aa few few shallow shallow incisions Remove the the legs, undersides, grill them. the breast breast into into and grill them. Carve Carve the undersides, season season and thin put them rows on buttered dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle thin slivers slivers and and put them in in rows on aa buttered with season with finely chopped chopped shallot, shallot, and and season with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon finely crushed ground pepper pepper and spices. freshly ground and spices. crushed sea-salt, sea-salt, freshly Chop glass red red wine, wine, and and sprinkle with with ~I glass Chop up up the the carcase, carcase, sprinkle juice obtained put press. Pour the put itit under over the Pour the the juice obtained over duck press. under aa duck sliced duckling. sliced duckling. Heat put under stove and and put under moment on on the the stove Heat the the dish dish for for aa moment the grilled legs legs one one at at each each the grilled grill to glaze the the meal. meat. Place Place the the grill togla7~ the dish, end once. and serve serve at at once. end of ofthe dish, and Different preparing of preparing have different different ways ways of Different restaurants restaurants have Salmis no more more rouennaise. Quite often itit isis no la rouennaise. Salmis o(duckling of duckling àd la Quite often than rouennaise. Duckling àd lala rouennaise. than Duckling In originated, this dish dish originated, whence this In sorne some restaurants restaurants in in Rouen, Rouen, whence

Simmer in the the oven oyen for for a few few minutes. Serve in the same same Simmer dish. dish. Rouen duckling duckling (cold). (cold). cANEroN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS FRoID FROID - Rouen Rouen be served cold garnished with duckling, roast or fried, may be

should be be cooked cooked longer than required required for watercress. It should watercress. serving itit hot. hot. GALANTINE DE OE cANEroN CANETON DE Galantine of Rouen duckling. cALANTINE ROUEN - Prepare Prepare like like Galantfue Galantine of chicken (see (see GALANGALANRoUEN TINE) adding adding to to the the forcemeat forcemeat a a quantity quantity of d à gratin gratin TINE) FORCEMEAT). forcemeat cemeat (see FORCEMEAT). for duckling en daube. cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUëNNAIS EN Jellied Rouen ducklirg DAUBE A À rl LA crr6s GELÉE - Prepare llke like Daube of ofpheasant pheasant in jelly DAUBE PHEASANT). (see PHEASANT).

lellied Jellied strips I'orange strips of Rouen duckling duckling àd l'orange

Jellied strips of AIcuILLErrEs I'orange. AIGUILLETTES of Rouen duckling ài l'orange. Prepare the - Prepare duckling in the the recipe recipe for for Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of as described duckling as described in Rouen duckling. Cut strips, and breast fiUets fillets into into thin thin strips, Cut the the breast coat (see SAUCE). SAUCE). coat with with Chaud-froid sauce sauce àd l'andalouse l'andalouse (see Decorate with truffies and peel cut orange peel cut into into little little strips, strips, and orange and jelly. Keep glaze with jelly. flesh and gla7~ Keep in in aa refrigerator. refrigerator. Using Using the the flesh of in the the recipe recipe for for of the the legs, legs, make aa mousse mousse as as described described in Poultry (see MOUSSE), mousse (see MOUSSE), adding adding diced diced truffies. truffies. Fill Fill aa Poultry mousse dome-shaped set. dome-shaped mould with the the mousse and and put it on on ice ice to set. When weil crustless of crustless well chilled, tum turn itit out out onto onto aa croûton cro0ton of bread, spread with with duckling duckling bread, spread with butter, butter, on on aa dish. dish. Coyer Cover with strips sauce. Spoon Spoon aa strips which have been been coated in n chaud-froid sauce. little jelly on half-set jelly dish. Cut oranges on the little half-set the bottom of of the the dish. Cut oranges into port pulp, half-fill half-fill with with port into basket-shapes, scoop scoop out out the the pulp, jelly, jelly, decorate peeled orange and arrange decorate with orange sections sections and arrange with peeled round shape. round the the mousse mousse shape. Decorate the If half spiking on on aa skewer skewer topped topped by by ha by spiking the top top by an an orange orange with truffie in in it. it. with aa big big truffLe Chili Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Rouen LAMBERTYE DE ROUEN RoUEN LAMBERTYE cANEToN DE Rouen duckJing duckling Lambertye. Lambertye. CANETON -- Proceed for Chicken Chicken Lambertye Lambertye in the the recipe recipe for Proceed as as described described in (see (see CHICKEN), mousse in in that that the chicken chicken mousse replacing the CHICKEN), replacing recipe duck mousse. recipe by by duck mousse. Set (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Set in in brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce Rouen DE ROUEN RoUEN -I. MOUSSE uo'uss DE DE CANETON cANEroN DE duckling mousse mousse 1. Ruren duckJing Prepare the (see CHICKEN), replacing the mousse (see CHICKEN), replacing like Chicken Prepare like Chickm mousse chicken by duck. duck. chicken by Rouen Er MoussE ET II and and mousselines. mousselines. MOUSSE mousse il duckling mousse Roum duckling MOUSSELINES as described described Prepare as RouENNAIS -- Prepare DE CANETON MoussELINES DE cANEToN ROUENNAIS in (see below), the below), the souffii (see duckling soufflé recipe for for Rouen Rouen duckling in the the recipe mousse, poached in in aa in the the oyen oven in mould, poached mousse, in in aa charlotte charlotte mould, buin-marie (q.v.); and bain-marie (q.v.); in small small moulds, moulds, and the the mousselines, mousselines, in DE 'ORA:-IGE DE CANETON .4, L r'On^nSrcr CANETON DE DE ROUEN ROUEN GLACÉES CrlCfnS À

325 325

DUCK (cooked from the sliced sliced duckling duckling (cooked from JOl0 toto 1212 minutes) minutes) isis the coveredwith (see SAUCE), with Red Red wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE), spiced spiced with with covered shallots, flavoured flavoured with with aa tablespoon tablespoon of of brandy, brandy, and and shallots, thickened with with raw raw chopped chopped duck duck liver. liver. thickened In Duclair, Duclair, the the home home of of the the famous famous ducklings, ducklings, aa different different ln joints, put method isis used. used. Bone Bone the the ducklings ducklings to to the the wing put wing joints, method the liver liver inside inside the the bird, bird, trun trim and and truss truss it, it, and and roast roast on on the the the spit for for 20 20 to to 22 22 minutes, minutes, depending depending on on size. size. spit Carve the the breasl breast into into Ihin thin sliees slices and and arrange arrange them them on on aa Carve dish around around the the carcase, carcase, which which has has been been fliled filled with with the the dish following purée: pur6e: Fry Fry aa large large chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightly in in butter, butter, following sprinkle with port and with port and Burgundy Burgundy wine, wine, boil boil down, down, add add the the sprinkle duckling's liver pounded in liver pounded in aa mortar mortar and and the the blood blood from from duckling's the carcase. carcase. Heat Heat weil. well. the Rouen duckling duckling soufflé. souffi6. CANETON RoUENNAtsE SOUFFLÉ cANEroN ROUENNAISE sourrrf -Rouen grand-style dish; This isis very very much much aa grand-style dish; itit isis excellent excellent but but This rather expensive, expensive, as ducklings should should be as 22 ducklings be used, larger used, the the larger rather for serving serving and and the the sma smaller for making making aa forcemeat forcemeat to to stuff stuff for 11er for the other. other. the Truss the the larger larger duck duck and and raast roast in in the the oven, oven, keeping keeping itit Truss rather underdone. underdone. Remove Remove the the breast fillets and and keep keep hot. hot. breast fillets rather Remove the the breast-bone breast-bone in in such such aa way way as as to to make make the the Remove hollow. Season carcase hoJ]ow. Season the the duck duck inside pepper, inside with salt, pepper, with salt, carcase and spices, spices, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon brandy. brandy. Stuff Stuff the the and (5 oz.) carcase with forcemeat of g. (5 with aa forcemeat 150 g. gras, of 150 uncooked/oie gras, oz.) uncookedfoie carcase the ducks' ducks'livers, flesh of prepared and the the tlesh ofthe second duck, duck, prepared the li vers, and the second (see FORCEMEAT). as described described in Mousseline forcemeat (sec tn Mousseline as FORCEMEAT). Spread this this forcemeat forcemeat in piling itit up in the the carcase, give the carcase, piling to give the Spread up to duck its its original original shape. shape. Cover Cover with buttered paper and tie tie duck with buttered paper and with string. string. Lay Lay the pan, sprinkle the stufred stuffed duck duck in in aa roasting roasting pan, sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter ilnd and cook cook in in aa slow slow oyen for 20 oven for 20 to 25 with to 25 minutes. minutes. Remove the paper. Arrange the duck on on aa dish Remove the paper. Arrange the duck dish and surround with baked blind and filled with aa salpicon salpicon surround with tartlets tartJets baked blind and fliled with (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms (q.v.) of truffies and mushrooms blended blended with with concentratod concentrated (se SAUCE). Madeira sauce (sec SAUCE). Place Place aa slice slice of of duck duck on each on each Madeira sauce tartlet sliver of tartlet and and top top with with a a sliver of truffie, truffie, heated heated in in butter. butter. Serve with RRouennaise ouennaise sauce Servewith sauce or or Pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The same forcemeat The same forcemeat can can be be used used for for making making Rouen Rouen duck duck mousses artd. mousselines. The prepared mousses and mousselines. The former fonuer are are prepared in in charlotte charlotte moulds moulds with with a a hole bole in in the the middle, middle, the the latter latter in in small small individual individual moulds. moulds. They They are are cooked cooked in in the the oven oven in in aa bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). The The same same composition composition can can also also be be used used for for preparing preparing Duck Duck soufid soufflé en en timbale. timbale. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered souff6 soufflé moulds mou Ids and and bake bake in in the the oven oyen like like an an ordinary ordinary souffi6 soufflé (see (sec SOUFFLES, SOUFFLÉS, Savoury Savoury soffiis). soufflés). Supr0mes. Suprêmes. of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. supRErvrns SUPR~MES DE DE cANEToN CANETON RoUENNAIS ROUENNAIS -- Remove Remove the the breast breast fillets fillets of of aa Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. Cut Cut each each fillet fillet into into 22 or or 33 pieces pieces lengthways. lengthways. Beat Beat to to flatten ftatten them them slightly, slightly, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, put put in in aa buttered buttered dish, dish, and and cook cook with with the the lid lid on, on, keeping keeping them them rather rather underunderdone. done. Duck Duck fillets fillets prepared prepared in in this this manner manner are are served served with with various various garnishes garnishes and and sauces. sauces. They They can ean be be prepared prepared ià /a la bigarade,with bigarade, with shredded shredded orange orange and and lemon lemon rind rind and and bigarade bigarade sauce: sauce; with with morello morello cherries. cherries, stoned stoned and and cooked cooked in in Madeira Madeira with with concentrated concentrated Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured veal veal gravy gravy blended blended with with aa little liale butter; butter; garnished garnished with with mushrooms mushrooms saut6ed sautécd in in butter; butter; au au chambertin, chambertin, arrangd arranged on on cro0tons craÎltons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnished garnished with with sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms fried fried in in butter butter and and slices slices of of truffies truffles in in chambertin chambertin sauce; sauce; au au porto, porto, arranged arranged on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter butter with with port port sauce sauce poured poured over over them; them; dà la la pirigourdine, périgourdine, ananged arranged on on fried fried cro0tons, croûtons, spread spread with with foie foie gras, gras, garnished garnished with with slivers slivers of of truffes truffles and and served served with with Madeira, Madeira, port port or or sherry sherry sauce; sauce; with with truffies truffles arranged arranged on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter, garnished garnisbed with with thick thick slices slices of of truffies truffles saut6ed sautéed in in butter butter and and served served with with Madeira Madeira sauce sauce

I'orange. Aiso Also on on croûtons cro0tons fried fried inin butter, garnished with butter, garnished àd l'orange. with orange rind rind shredded shredded intojulienne into julienne (q.v.) (q.v.)strips, strips, surrounded orange surrounded peeledsections with peeJed sections of of orange, orange, and and served served with with with orange orange sauce. sauce. Terrine of of Rouen Rouen duckling. duckling. TERRINE rrnnrNr DE DE CANETON cANEToN DE Terrine DE ROUENRouEN Using duck duck tlesh, flesh, fine fine forcemeat forcemeat and prepare like and truffles, truffies, prepare Using like (see TERRINE). Terrine of of duckling duckling (see TERRINE). Terrine Timbale of of Rouen Rouen duckting duckling Voisin. Voisin. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE DE CANETON cANEroN Timbale RouENNArs VOISIN vorsrN -- This This dish dish was was one one of the specialities of the specialities of ROUENNAIS of the famous famous Voisin Voisin restaurant restaurant which which no no longer longer exists. the exists. The The recipe was was as as follows: follows: recipe Roast aa Rouen Rouen duckling, duckling, keeping keeping itit aa little little underdone. Roast underdone. quite cold, When itit isis quite cold, remove remove the the breast breast fillets. fillets. When Chop up up the the earcase and the carcase and the trimmings trimmings and and use use them them for for Chop (see SA making aa Salmis Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE, Compound brown making UCE, Compound brown sauces). Strain Strain the the sauce, sauce, remove remove surplus surplus fat, fat, add sauces). add to to itit an an jelly, boil quantity of equal quantity of meat meat jelly, down, and boil down, and strain strain tbrough equal through aa muslin c1oth. cloth. muslin timbale with Coat aa timbale with this this sauce. sauce. When put in When itit sets, sets, put Coat in aa layer of of sliced slicod flUets (previously coated fillets of of duckling duckling (previously coated with layer with the the same sauce sauc€ and and left left to set), alternating to set). alternating with with slivers slivers of same of truffles. truffies. jelly over Spoon sorne some half-set half-set jelly over eacb layer and each layer and continue Spoon continue in in this manner manner until until the the timbale timbale isis filled filld with with alterna alternating rows ting rows this of sliced sliced duck duck and and truffles. truffies. of jelly. Put Finish off off with with aa slightly thicker thicker layer layer of jelly. Finish Put the the on ice or or in in aa refrigera refrigerator well. timbale on tor and chill weil. Rouen duckling duckling with witft truffles. trufres. CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS RouENNArs AUX AUx Rouen TRUFFES -- This preparation isis suitable only This method method of of preparation only for TRUFFES or suprêmes suprdmes (breasts) of Rouen ducklings. fillets or the duckling Cook the duckling in in the the oven, oven, keeping it little underCook il aa littlc done. Cut the breast breast fillets fillets into thick slices. Arrange Arrange these done. into thick in aa dish with thick sliccs slices of truffies which in which have been been tossed in in butter. bu tter. Keep hot. Chop the carcaso and and the Chop the carcase the parings parings into into pieces, pieees, moisten with or sherry, and and boil down. Add Add a with Madeira, Madeira, port port or boil down. a few concentrated Demi-glace (see tablespoons concentraled (see SAUCE). Allow to strain. Bring this to boil boil for for aa few moments, then then strain. this sauce sauce to the boil, boil, add I1 tablespoon brandy brandy which has has been set alight, alight, and 2 tablespoons sauce and tabJespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Pour the the sauce over the duckling duckling fillets. fiJlets.

WILD WILD DUCKS. DUCKS. cANARDs CANARDS sAUvAcES SAUVAGES - Among Among the the wild ducks used used in in cookery, cookery, the most most popular, and the the biggest, biggest, is is the green-head green-head or or mallard, mallard, known kno"m in France as as Canard sauvage or or Un sauvage. sauvage. This This duck, duck, which which has has succulent flesh. tlesh, is is found found in in the the vicinity vicinity of of freshwater freshwater ponds ponds and and lakes lakes from from October to to March. March. Its lts plumage plumage varies, varies, depending depending on on sex, sex, age, age, and season. season. The The plumage plumage of of the the male male is green green and and red red with with touches touches of of brown brown and grey. The female femaJe is is brown. brown. The The flesh f1esh of of the the other other species species of of wild wild ducks, ducks, most most of of which which are are edible, edible, is is less less delicate delicate than than that that of of the the mallard. mal lard. They They include include the the pintail, pintai!, the the sheld-duck sheld-duck and the the gadwell; gadwell. Other Other water water game game of of the the same same family, family, which which is is defined defined by by the the generic generic term tenu waterfowd waterfowl, include include the the spoonbill spoonbill or or shovellershoveller·· duck, the teal, teal, aa small small but but excellent excellent bird. bird. duck, and the Some Sorne waterfowl, waterfowl. for for example, example, the the pintail pintail and and teal teal are are allowed allowed as as Lenten Lenten fare, fare, whereas whereas the the mallard mallard isis considered considered as as meat. meat. Wild Wild duck duck ià la la bigarade. bigarade. cANARD CANARD sAUVAcE SAUVAGE AÀ r.A LA srcARADs BIGARADE Roast Roast or or fry fry the the wild wild duck duck and and prepare prepareas as Duckling Ducklingdà I'orange. l'orange. Fillets Fillels of of duck duck ial ta la bigarade bigarade (Plumerey's (Plumerey's recipe). recipe). FrLErs FILETS DE DE cANARD CANARD A À r,c, LA nlcARA,DE BIGARADE -- 'Remove 'Remove the the breast breast fillets fillets and and the the legs legs of of22 wild wild ducks. ducks. Put Put them them into inlo an an earthenware earthenware dish dish with with salt, salt,coarse-ground coarse-ground pepper, pepper,parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, bay bayleaf, leaf,chopped chopped shallots, shallots, lemon lemon juice juice and and I glass glass good good oil. oil. Keep Keep them them in in this this seasoning seasoning for for 45 45 minutes minutes before before they they are are required, required, turning tuming frequently. frequently. 'Thread 'Thread them them on on aa skewer, skewer, without without packing packing too too tightly, tightly,

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DUCK DUCK sprinkle withthe theseasoning seasoningininwhich whichthey theywere weresteeped, steeped, sprinkle with and put on a spit. and put on a spit. 'As soon asasyou youfeel feelthem them becoming becoming finn firmtotothe thetouch, touch, 'As soon takethem themoff offthe theskewer. skewer. Wash Washthe thefillets filletsand putthem andput themone one take by one oneinto into aasauté panininwhich saut6pan jellythe pieceof whichaapiece gamejelly ofgame the by size of a walnut has been melted, with an equal amount of size of a walnut has been melted, with an equal amount of juiceof butter and and the the juice of I lemon. lemon.Arrange Arrange and andserve serve with with butter (see SAUCE).' Bigarade sauce sauce(see Bigarade SA UCE).' WiH duck duckau auchambertin. chambertin. CANARD c,rN.lRD SAUVAGE sAUVAGE AU AUCHAMBERcHAMBERWild rrN Roast or fry fry the the duck, duck, keeping keeping itit aalittle little underdone. underdone. TIN - - Roast or Prepare Chambertin (see SAUCE), Chambertinsauce sauce(see SAUCE), add addtoto ititsorne someof of Prepare juices left the diluted diluted pan pan juices leftover over from from cooking cooking the theduck, duck,and and the pour over over the the dish. dish.Garnish Garnishwith with truffies truffiesand and mushrooms. mushrooms. pour (Plumerey's recipe). Salmis of of wild wildduck duck (plumerey's recipe). SALMIS sALMrs DE DECANARD cANARD Sabnis 'Cover wild duck SAUVAGE duck with with aamirepoix (q.v.),wrap mirepoix (q.v.), wrap SAUVAGE -- 'Cover aa wild piece of in aa piece paper and of paper put to and put to cook cook on spit. After on aaspit. After cooking cooking in for 30 30 minutes, minutes, unwrap, unwrap, test test to to see seeifif the theduck duck isis done, done, and and for cut up up in in the the usual usual manner manner for for aasalmis. salmis. eut joints into 'Put the the joints into aa casserole, casserole, together together with with the the blood blood 'Put which cornes comes out out of of them, them, making making sure sure that that itit neither neither boils boils which nor dries dries up, up, but but keeps keeps hot. hot. nor 'Have sorne some concentrated, concentrated, thick thick Financière FinanciDre sauce (se, sauce (see 'Have SAUCE) ready ready in in aa bain-marie (q.v.). Put bain-marie (q.v.). Put the the bones bones and and SAUCE) parings of of the the duck duck into into aa saucepan saucepan with glass good good. red with I glass red parings Bordeaux wine, wine, ~f shallot, shallot, 1I clove, clove, and and apinch a pinch of of coarsely coaisely Bordeaux ground pepper. pepper. Boil Boil down down to to half, half, add add the the financière sauce, ground financiire sauce, and cook cook untiJ until itit reaches reaches the the consistency consistency of of aa salmis salmis sauce. sauce. and Strain, add add 1I tablespoon juice of tablespoon olive olive oil oil and and the the juice lemon. of I lemon. Strain, Arrange the pieces of the pieces of duck duck 00 on heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons, cro0tons, Arrange garnish with with sliced sliced truffies trufles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and pour the and pour the garnish sauce over.' over.' sauce

Salmisofofwild wildduck duckà ilaIaminute (Plumerey's recipe). minute(Plumerey's recipe).SALMIS sALMrs Salmis le Preparethe theduck duckand and -Prepare cookon onthe thespit, precedingrecipe. spit,asasdescribed describedininthe thepreceding recipe.While Whileit it cook cooking,chop parsley,mushrooms chopparsley, mushroomsand andshallots shallotsvery veryfinely, isiscooking, finely, tossthem panininbutter theminina apan butterwith pepper,and withsalt, salt,pepper, anda alittle little toss gratednutmeg. nutmeg.Moisten Moistenwith glassofofwhite withi Iglass whiteChablis, Chablis,boil grated boil downby byhalf, half,and andadd goodtablespoon adda agood tablespoonEspagnole Espagnolesauce down sauce (seeSA SAUCE). Removefrom fromheat heatand andadd add {tablespoon (see UCE). Remove tablespoon ofofthe the bestmustard. mustard. best 'Takethe jointit,it,and theduck duckoff offthe thespit, spit,joint putthe andput piecesinto 'Take thepieces into pan,turning turningthem jellyand gently.Put themgently. Puta a!ittle littlegame gamejelly aa.saut6 ·sauté pan, and pieceof ofbutter butterthe thesize sizeof ofaasmalJ aapiece smallwalnut walnutinto intothe pan. thepan. Servethe pieces with theduck duckpieces withthe pouredover.' thesauce saucepoured Serve over.' WiHduck duckàI l'orange. I'orange.CANARD cANARDSAUVAGE sAUvAGEÀI L'ORANGE Wild r'on,lNcr- -Fry Fry or roast roastthe theduck. duck. Proceed Proceedasasdescribed describedininthe or therecipe recipefor for Duckling àdl'orange. I'orange. Duckling poRTo- Fry Wildduck duckininport. port.CANARD cANARD SAUVAGE sAUvAcEAU Wild AUPORTO - Fryoror roastthe theduck proceed asasdescribed duck and and proceed describedininthe roast therecipe recipefor for Rouenduckling port. duckling ininport. Rouen Wild duck pnsssnpresse. CANARD duckàI lalapresse. cANARDSAUVAGE Wild sAUvAcEÀALA r.lPRESSE proceod asasdescribed Roastthe theduck duck from from 1818toto20 20minutes. minutes.Proceed Roast described therecipe recipefor for Pressed PressedRouen inin the duckling. Rouen duckling. Roast wild wild duck. duck.CANARD cANARD SAUVAGE Roast sAUvAGER6T1R0rr - Roast Roastthe theduck duck on brisk brisk heat, heat, either either on on spitor onaaspit orininthe theoven. oven. Garnish with with lemon lemon and and orange orangeslices. Garnish slices.Dilute Dilute the pan the pan juices and serveseparately. andserve separately. juices Wild duck duck ài lala tyrolienne Wild (Plumerey's recipe). tyrolienne (plumerey's recipe). CANARD clNlno SAUVAGE ÀALA ra TYROLIENNE SAUVAGE 'Stew cooking rynouENNE- -'Stew cooking apples applesand andadd addaa little cinnamon cinnamon and !ittle and mace mace to infuse the to infuse the hot hotapples. apples. Truss Trussthe the duck, stuffit stuffit with duck, with the the stewed stewed apples, apples, and sewup and sew upthe theneck neckand and the rump. rump. the DECANARD cANARDSAUVAGE SAUVAGE.4. unrurnDE À LA MINUTE

t

t

t

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Duckpress press (Lc (La Tour Tour d'Argent. d'Argent. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Duck

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DUCK PRESS DUCKPRESS established entered the established himseli himself, he he entered the service service of Napoleon Napoleon I, l, as chef. He remained in the service of of the Emperor Emperor until he he left for Saint Helena but, to his great sorrow, sorrow, was unable to go into exile with his master on account of of his health, and he retired to Switzerland. Switzerland. He left to the Lausanne Museum the the Emperor's Em peror's personal personal table-service, table-service, which which had had been presented presented to him by Napoleon. Napoleon. It claimed that we owe the invention of the dish known It is c1aimed as as Chickm Chicken sauft sauté Marengo to Dunand the younger.

boil1 vincgar with a piece pieœ of butter the Bring to the boil | glass vinegar of a small walnut, walnut, I coffee-spoon coffee-spoon fine sugar, and a little size of Baste the the duck duck with with this this during coarsely ground pepper. Baste on the spit, spit, placing a a pan beneath it it to catch the cooking on juices. Cooking should be be completed in in 30 JO to to 35 35 minutes. Take the the duck duck off the the spit, spit, remove remove trussing trussing strings strings and Take dish. Strain the a dish. the pan juices juices into a a saucepan, on a arrange on sauce redcurrant jelly, jelly, and pour this sauce heat, add It tablespoon redcurrant over the duck.' over duck.'

1

different PRE&'i. pREssE PRESSE A il clNmo ('ANARD - Kitchen K itchen utensil, ulensil, different DUCK PRESS. serves the sole purpose of from a a meat meat press, press, in in that that it il serves the sole purpose of from extracting the juices from the carcase carcase ofduck. of duck. extracting thejuices

DUXELLES DUXELLf:S -- The The name derives derives from from Uxel. Uxel, a small town of the C6tesdu-Nord. Côtes-du-Nord. Some believe believc that this thi~ dish was was socalled because it it was was created created by tLaa Varenne, an an official of of the household of the the Marquis d'Uxelles. d'Uxelles. Duxelles of Duxelles of mushrooms. mushroorns. DUXELLES DUXELLES DE DE cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS Clean and trim trirn 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) mushrooms, or peelings peelings and Put them in a stalks, and stalks. and chop them finely. finely. Pu! a cloth and and twist Lightly brown in butter half tightly to extract all ail liquid. liquid. Lightly ha If a onion. Add 2 chopped shallots, salt, pepper, nutchopped onion. meg and the squeezed squeezed mushrooms. St:r Stir over over brisk heat until until the mushrooms are cooked. Leave to get cold cold and keep in a covered with buttered paper. cold cold place, place, covered

There were of this were two two master chefs chefs of this name, DUNAND -- There were equally famous. son, of Swiss origin, who were father and and son, The elder eIder Dunand Dunand joined joined the French army and became chef to the prince de Cond6. Condé. His son succeeded him hirn and became controller of household. When When the the prince prince emigrated controller of this great household. Dunand followed in 1793 1793 the younger Dunand followed him, and for twelve in years was wa, in charge of his kitchens. sick man Then, being aa sick man ard and with with aa nostalgic nostalgie longing to Having resee Paris once more, he he returned returned to to France. France. Having see Paris once more,

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Pipe the the 6clairs éclairs on on to to a a baking sheet in the the shape Pipe sheet in shape of fingers. Brush with wi th egg and bake in a a hot hot oyen. When the fingers. oven. When fiU them, using éclairs are cold, slit them along one side, and fill 6clairs a forcing-bag, forcing-bag, with with French French pastry pastry cream cream flavoured ftavoured with a vanilla, coffee or chocolate. Ice lce the the top top of the éclairs 6clairs with ftavoured to blend with the filling. hot fondant icing, flavoured Eclairs Éclairs can also be filled filled with different mixtures, such as Crème Chiboust Chiboust (see CREAM), Chantilly, Chantilly, pur6e purée of of marrons Crime glacds, glacés, or salpicons salpicons of various various kinds kinds of fruit fruit blended blended in French pastry cream. cream. Small Small 6clairs éclairs d à la la hollandaise. hollandaise. pnrrrs PETITS fcrAJns ÉCLAIRS A À r.c, LA HOLLANDAISE - These 6clairs éclairs are served as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. HoLLANDAISE Make the 6clairs éclairs of of unsweetened unsweetened chou chou paste paste and pipe pipe them Make a baking sheet; sheet; they should be smaller than ordinary onto a éclairs -- about a 4 cm. (H inches) inches) long. Brush with egg and 6clairs cm. (lt oyen. Leave until they are quite guite cold. bake in a slow oven. Fillet a large large herring, herring, soak to remove remove all ail salt and dry in a Fillet clotho Pound Pound in a a mortar, mortar, adding adding 2 yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled cloth. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons) butter. Rub through a eggs, and 75 g. G fine 1 tablespoon chopped chives chives and !1 tablefine sieve. Add + a smooth paste with a spoon chopped parsley, and work to a éclairs and fill fil! them with this spatula. Slit the sides of the 6clairs using a a pastry pastry forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Brush Brush the the tops tops with mixture, using melted melted butter and and sprinkle with with chopped chopped yolk yolk of of hardboiled eggs and chopped parsley. parsley, boiled

EARTH NUTS. NUTS. rERRE-Nox TERRE-NOIX - Tuberous Tuberous root root of a a plant whose scientific name na me is is Carwn Carum bulbocastanum. bulbocastanum. lt It is is black outside and white white inside, tastes tastes like like chestnut chestnut and is prepared in the same sa me ways. The The seeds seeds of of the the plant plant are are sometimes sometimes used used in place place of of caraway. caraway. EASTER EASTER EGGS EGGS -- See EGGS. ÉCHAUDÉ -- Pastry Pastry made made with with dough dough which which is is first nCfHUOn poached in water, then dried in the oven. oyen. The invention of this pastry is is attributed to Charles-Paul Favart (father of the French dramatist) who, in 1710, 171 0, was established established as a pastry-cook pastry-cook in the'rue tI1è rue de la Verrerie Verrerie in Paris. Paris. It is probable probable that Favart's 'invention' 'invention' consisted consisted merely of improving improving and altering altering the the shape of of this pastry and thereby fashion, for it was known in France long long bringing it into fashion, before Favart's time. It It is mentioned mentioned in a charter of 1210. 1210, where it it is is described as as 'buns called caUed eschaudati', a a name na me given to to it because hot hot water water was poured onto the dough to rise. ' make it rise. Car6me's Carême's recipe is is as as follows: follows: 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4j 41 cups) cups) flour, salt,22 dl. Q ftour, lj J-t dl. $(t pint, pint, 31cup) oil, lt li teaspoons teaspoons salt, (t pint, "np) scant scant cup) cup) water. water. Mix and and knead knead the the dough, and and leave to stand, stand, wrapped in a cloth, for 2 hours. hours. Divide into into small small pieces, pieces, shape into a cloth, balls, balls, and and press press three three fingers fingers into into them them to to make make them hollow. Poach in in water. Drain and dry in a cloth, and leave to dry thoroughly thoroughly for 22 hours. Bake Bake in in a hot hot oven oyen for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes.

ÉCUELLE -- Deep dish used for serving vegetables. nCUnf,f,n CHEESE, EDAM -- See CHEESE.

nCHm.n ÉCHlRÉ -- One One of the the best best French butters. butters, made in the

ANGUILLE - Snake-like fish with viscous and slippery EEL. INcUILLE skin. When When caught caught in in fast-flowing fast-ftowing water its its flesh ftesh is is very skin. recognised by its light-brown Iight-brown skin, with delicate. It can be recognised on the back and and silver on the belly. The shades of brown on ftesh of of eels from a pool or stagnant water is slimy; the.skin theskin flesh dirty yellow yeUow on the belly. is dark brown on the back and dirty must be be kept alive alive until the the time time of of preparation. preparation. They Eels must

commune commune of of this name na me (Deux Sdvres). Sèvres).

be kept kept in in a fish pond or or a large large bucket bucket of of water water which which should be freguently changed. changed. Eel's EeJ's flesh ftesh is very nourishing, nourishing, should be frequently though a little \ittle heavy. heavy. It It becomes becomes more easily easily digestible if if the the though layer of of fat between between the skin and the the flesh fiesh is removed before layer cooking. cooking. There are several varieties of of sea eels, the best of of which which is moray. The conger conger eel eel is another another sea eel which which is chiefly chiefty used used moray.The bouillabaisse (q.v.). (g.v.). but it also makes makes excellent excellent matelotes matelotes for bouillabarsse (q.v.). (g.v.). Lamprey is is similar to to eel, and runs up up rivers in spring. Its Lamprey ftesh is delicate in flavour fiavour and can be prepared in the same same flesh eel. way as eel.

Coffee Coffee and and chocolate chocolate eclairs éclairs (Zaroasse) (Larousse)

paste (see DOUGH) ECf,n n - Small ÉCLAffiSmaJi pastry pastry made madewith Choupaste(see with Chou filled fiUed with French French pasty pastry ueam cre am (see (see CREAM) flavoured ftavoured

with with vanilla, vaniUa, coffee, or chocolate, chocolate, and and iced iced with Fondant Fondant icing icing (see ICING). ICING).

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EEL a white or brown sauce, sauce, etc. etc. SmaJi Small eels, and fillets or cutlets eels, and intended for for frying are not cooked first first in in court-bouillon. Eel ài l'anglaise. ANGUILLE À A L'ANGLAISE I'anglaise.,lNcuIrr,e L'A,NGLAIsE -- Cut a a boned eel boned eel (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Flatten, into Flatten, and and marinate into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) marinate for for 30 pepper. Coat lemon juice or vinegar, salt and pepper. minutes in oil, lemon the pieces with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Serve Serve (see SAUCE) to with with Butter sauce sauce (see little anchovy to which which aa little butter has been added. Ballottine of of eel, eel, or shrffed eel. eel. BALLOTTINE slu.orrlNE D'ANGUILLE D'I,NGUILLE or stuffed (nNcunrn FARCIE) (ANGUILLE This dish is rr,ncn) -- This cold. When is served hot or cold. hot, it can can be be served servd with with the the garnishes and and sauces recommended for large braised for large braised fish. fish. When cold, ail all the the recipes mended When cold, given for cold fish fish can be applied to to it. Cold ballottine of eel eel is also called called galantine of eel. Co Id ballottine or galantine of eel sausage, Cold or galantine of eel, eel, or or eel sausage, or stuffed jellied eel. BALLOTTINE D'ANGUILLE stuffed jeltied eel. BALLoTTINE D'aNGUILLT FROIDE, FRoIDE, GALANTINE, SAUCISSON À LA D'ANGUILLE, ANGUILLE FARCIE r.ARcn,i r.q, sAUcIssoN D'ANGUILLE, GELÉE - Bone cu,6r Bone the the eel and fill fill with stuffing and and wrap eel and with stuffing wrap as as

aquarium Eel in an aquarium

described described in in Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel (see below). Poach Poach gently in red red or white wine court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain and unwrap, unwrap, then in the Drain and rewrap the then rewrap the fish fish in the muslin little, and cIo th, rinsed out. Tie with string, rinsed out. cloth, string, tightening it aa little, a press. put under a press. Leave Leave for for 12 12 hours to to get quite cold. Unwrap the ballottine, dry, dry, trim, and coat coat with jelly or trim, and Chaud-froid (see SAUCE). Serve and as described Chaud-froid (see and garnish as described in the recipe. The fish stock for cold cold ballottine of eel eel is is made with red or white wine. the ballottine is is cooked, wine. After the cooked. the the stock is clarified as described described in in the the recipe clarified as recipe for for Fish jelly stock (see JELL Y), and and used used for coating and garnishing the for coating and garnishing JELLY), the eel. eel. jelly, serve When the the ballottine is is prepared only When serye comin jelly, only in pletely covered placed on aa larger covered in its jelly, the dish being placed

'l

one and surrounded by crushed ice. BALLOTTINE D'ANGUILLE Hot ballottine of eel. eel. BALLoTTTNE D'lNcuILLE CHAUDE cHAUDE -a large large eel, flatten slightly, season with salt, Prepare a salt, pepper and spices. spices. Fill Fill with stuffing the and with forcemeat, stuffing the fish fish so so as as to muslin cloth and retain its shape. Wrap the ballottine in aa muslin tie it at both ends and in 3 or 4 places in the middle. Put onto the grill of of aa buttered fish kettle. Coyer Put Cover with white red wine court-bouillon. Bring to to the boil, coyer the pan, or red cover the unwrap the eel. Place in aa fireand poach gently. Drain and unwrap dish and and glaze in the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently proof dish glaze in frequently with pan juices. juices. the thickened pan The wine wine liquor liquor for for boiling boiling ballottine ballottine of eel, which The of eel, in butter added to it, usually has has diced diced vegetables sautéed usually added to sauteed in should be be further further strengthened strengthened by by adding adding the the bones bones and should from other fish, fish, if possible. possible. After cooking the trimmings from liquor should be used used as as a basis for the sauce ballottine, the liquor sauce which is to accompany it. eel will be be found found under ForceStuffing for ballottine of eel FORCE MEATS). with fish (see FoRCEMEATS). meats withfish eel In addition to the recipes listed below for ballottine of of eel be applied applied to to it. ail those given for for large braised fish fish can be all fish can be accompanied by a a simple garnish such as The fish such as mushrooms, various various croquettes, macddoine macédoine of vegetables, mushrooms, potatoes prepared in various ways, rice pilaf, or risotto. Ballottine of eel eel Ià l'ancienne. BALLoTTTNE BALLOTTINE o'ANGUrrrr D'ANGUILLE À A L'ANCIENNE - Stuff Stuff the eel eel with whiting forcemeat to which L'nNcrENNE added. Prepare as as described described above diced truffies have been added. above court-bouillon with white white wine. and poach in court-bouillonwith a foundation of fish fish forceDrain, glaze, and and arrange on a meat or on aa cro0ton croûton of ofbread meat bread fried in butter. Surround with l'ancienne garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Cover Coyer with à I'ancienne d Normande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) diluted diluted with the boiled down Normande liquor in which the eel eel was cooked and finished with finely liquor shredded mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) of vegetables and Madeira. Madeira. shredded Ballottine of of eel eel ià la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. BALLoTTINE BALLOTTINE Ballottine D'ANGUILLE A À r,,r LA gouRGUrcNoNNE BOURGUIGNONNE - Stuff the the eel eel with with aa D'ANcurLLE -

lo skin an eel eel How to

skinning the fish, fish, kill kiU it by banging banging the head hard Before skinning against a stone. stone. As soon as it is dead, hang it up on a hook ho ok against string tied at the neck. neck. Make Make a circular incision incision below by a string string. Turn the the skin back all aU round the neck in such a the string. wayas to be able to hold it with a cloth and then th en tear the way as to skin off. off. skin c1ean it by making ma king a light light incision incision along Trim the eel and clean the belly. belly. Cut off off the head, which is thrown away, and cut the the fish fish into slices or leave leave whole, as directed in the recipe. recipe. the the eel eel whole, whole, you you can can cut it into Instead of skinning the Instead pieces. Grill them for a few moments under a brisk flame, flame, pieces. turning them them to catch the skin on on all ail sides. Under Under the action action turning of the the heat heat the the skin blisters blisters and and can can be be easily taken taken off. of This method method of of skinning skinning also also has has the advantage advantage of of removing removing This the excess excess fat. fat. the An eel weighing weighing about about 750 750 g. (li (ltlb.) be cooked in the An lb.) can be court-bouillon (white or red wine) following way in in a wine court-bouillon following the eel into 6-cm. (2*-inch) (2~-inch) pieces, or vegetables. Cut the with vegetables. leave whole, whole, and and cook cook in in aa well-buttered well-buttered pan pan on on aa foundation leave oz., i~ cup) each each of of chopped onions onions and carrots carrots of 50 g. (2 oz., per litre litre (scant (scant quart, generous generous quart) liquid. liquid. Press well weil to per make the the fish lie lie flat. Add a crushed crushed clove c10ve of garlic and aa make bouquet garni (q.v.). Season with with salt and and freshly freshly ground ground bouquet pepper. Cover Coyer the the fish fish with the the wine and cook cook slowly slowly on the pepper. of the the stove. stove. side of side court-bouillon can afterwards afterwards be prepared Eel cooked in court-bouillon Eel la bourguignonne, bourguignonne, fied, fried, grilled, grilled, dà la tartare, en en matelote, matelote, in in dà Ia 330 330

EEL EEL

pike pike or whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley .

pepper. Stulf Stuff with pike forcemeat bound bound with an egg and a salpicon mushrooms and truffies. tcuffies. Reshape Reshape the the eel, salpicon (q.v.) (q .v.) of mushrooms wrap it in rashers of bacon, make into inta a ring and tie tie with string. Fry sliced onion onion and carrot carrot lightly lightly in butter. butter. Put the eel in in a a pan pan on on this bed bed of of vegetables, vegetables, together with with a a leek, leek, a branch branch of savory and a large bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cover the fish with white Anjou wine (not (not too sweet). Bring Bring to the the boil and white Anjou remove scum. scum. Simmer Sim mer gently for [or 35 35 minutes with the pan covered. covered . Drain the fish. fish . Unwrap and put it into another pan with peeled mushrooms mushrooms which have been tossed in butter. Make Make a white roux (q.v.) of 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., i c.tp) cup) butter and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., * ~ cup) flour. flour. Dilute with with the the strained strained pan pan juices, juices, ",rp) blend blend well, weil, and and add add the the parings of the the mushrooms. musbrooms. Boil down on full heat, and add 3j dl. (generous (generous 1pin t, lj l! cups) I pint, fresh Simmer until until the the sauce sauce reaches reaches the the desired fresh cream. cream. Simmer Crayfish butter consistency, and and add add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., ! cup) Crayjish butter i "up) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Collared à la la bordelaise. bordelaise. RoULADE ROULADE n'.c.NcuLte D'ANGUILLE A À ta LA Collared eel eel il BoRDELATsE Stuff the eel with Fish nORDELAlSE - Stuff Fishforcemeat (see FORCEforcemeat (see MEAT) flavoured fl.avoured with anchovy butter to which has has been added chopped parsley. Make the eel eel into a ring and poach in aa red red Bordeaux wine court-bouillon. Drain, Drain , arrange on a middle. cèpes tn in the rniddle. dish, and put a pyramid of cooked cipes strain, as Thicken the Thicken the pan pan juices juices with with kneaded kneaded butter, butter, strain, indicated sauce (see SA SAUCE) UCE) and and pour indica ted for thin thin Bordelaise sauce fish. Garnish over the fish. Garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons croo.tons fried fried in butter. bUller. prepared in the same of stuffed eel eel d bordelaise are Pieces of à la bordelaise are preparw manner. royale. RoULADE A LA tt Collared eel ài la Collared eel la royale. ROULADE o'^lNcuttrl D'ANGUILLE À RoyALE eel into aa ring, and and poach a medium-sized eel ROYALE - Make a mirepoix (q.v.) in wine court-bouillon in white white wine court-bouillon with with aa mirepoix (q.v.) of get cold Leave to to get cold in in its vegetables. Leave i15 liquor. liquor. Drain, dry, dry, and (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Fry in deep fat coat with with Villeroi .I·auet! fat and drain. Fill the centre with soft roes àd la la Villeroi. Villeroi. Surround with Fill with soft dressed crayfish cooked in in court bouillon, alternating alternating with dressed (see parsley. Serve with sauce (see bunches of of fried bunches fried parsLey. with Normande Normande sauce SAUCE) UCE) to which chopped truffies truffles have been added. SA D'ANGUITII Eel coulibiac (Russian cookery). COULIBIAC couLIBIAc D Eel ' ANGUILLE (see given for Follow the of salmon salmon (see the recipe Coulibiac of Follow recipe given for Coulibiac SALMON), replacing the the salmon by boned, shced sliced eel. SALMON), pETITS COULillIACS o'aNcultts -- See Little eel epl coulibiacs. PETITS couLIBIAcs D'ANGUILLE SALMON, Small coulibiacs coulibiacs of of salmon. SALMON, with paprika, or à I lala hongroise. ANGUILLE lNcuLrs ÀA E€l in crearo cream with Eel tl CRÈME, AU PAPRIKA, IArRIKA, DITE DITE À A LA u HONGROISE noNcnolsE -- Cut Cut an an eel cniuE, AU LA pieces and into pieces and put them in aa saucepan on aa foundation of into paprika, fried in butter. Sprinkle wilh with paprika, shredded onion lightly friee! addabouquet and season season.. add a bouquet garni and fish with with white white wine wine and and bring bring to to the Cover the the fish the boil. Coyer pan and for 20 20 minutes. About About 88 minutes Cover the the pan and cook cook for Coyer peeled mushrooms heads. the end end of of cooking, cooking, add add peeled before the eel on aa croûton cro0ton of fried bread, Drain, arrange each piece of eel garnish with the Keep hot. and garnish the mushrooms. Keep and juices by half and and strain strain.. Add 22 tablethe pan juices tableBoil down the (see SAUCE) (3 tablespoons) Veloutd sauce (see spoons (3 tablespoons) thin thin Velouté SAUCE) and spoons (+ piot, pint, seant dl. (1scant cup) cup) cream. cream. Cook Cook until until the the sauce sauce coats 22 dl. g. (3 the surface surface of spoon.. Add Add 75 75 g. oz, 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) of aa spoon the Q oz., fish.. and pour over the fish butter, strain, and Make aa mediumEel àI la la diable. diable. ANGUILLE ANGUILLE À A LA rl DIABLE oHsrB -- Make Eel sized eel eel into aa ring. ring. Poach in in white wine wine court-bouillon, and and sized liquor. Drain, dry, dry, coat to cool cool in in the the Iiquor. coat with with mustard, leave to sprinkle with melted and dip dip [n in breadcrumbs mixed melted butter, butter, and sprinkle pinch of pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle again with melted of cayenne pepper. with aa pinch grill gently gently.. butter and grill Surround with with aa border of gherkins half slices slices of and balf border of eherkins and Surround

Prepare as described under under Hot ballottine ballottine of of eel and poach poach glaze, and arrange on a in a red wine court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Drain, glaze, croûton of of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish ri à /a la cro0ton GARNISHES) and and cover coyer with with ,BorrBourbourguignonne (see (see GARNISHES) bourguignonne guignonne SAUCE) made made with with the the liquor liquor left guignonne sauce (see (see SAUCE) fish. over from cooking the fish. Ballottine BALLOTTINe o'.rNclrtrrs D'ANGUILLE A À BaUottine of eel Ià la gauloise. BALLoTTTNE LA LA cAULorsE GAULOISE - Stuff the eel with pike or whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed truffies and and mushrooms. mixed with with a a salpicon (q.v.) (q .v.) of truffies and poach in Prepare as as described in Hot Hot ballottine ballotline of eel eel and white white wine court-bouillon. Drain, and arrange on a crustless croûton of bread fried fried in butter. Surround Surround with artichoke artichoke crotton hearts hearts filled [1.\)00 with carps' carps' soft soft roes roes cooked cooked in butter, butter, and pastry boats filled with Crayfish tail tail ragottt ragoùt dà Ia la Nanttn Nantua (see CRAYboats FISH) . FrsH). Boil down the liquor liquor in which the eel was cooked, thicken thicken witb Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), add butter, strain, and with pour over the dish. dish.

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:tt

bastion ofeel, baSLion of cel. after Car6me lfte. Ca réme

BASTIoN D'ANGUILLE D'ANcUILLE -- Bone Bone 22 large eels, Bastion of eel. eel. BASTiON fill them and diced diced truffies. fill thern with with aa pike or whiting stuffing and truffles . Wrap in a piece of muslin and tie with string. Cook in white wine well-flavoured fish fish stock. stock. Drain,' Drain, unwrap, unwrap, and wine and and well-flavoured cool under aa press. press. (4 inches) jnches) long, and Cut the eels into pieces about about JO l0 cm. cm. (4 coat with Chaud-froid sauce (see SA UCE) prepared prepared with the SAUCE) liquor in which fish was cooked. Decorate with truffies which the fish truffles pieces of and small small pieces hard-boiled egg whites. Glaze Glaze with and egg whites. of hard-boiled jelly. Arrange on on aa bed bod of cooked rice rice or on buttered liquid jelly. pieces upright, next to croûtons cro0tons of bread, placing the pieces to each halved hardother. other. Gamish of the the dish dish with with halved the border of Garnish the boiled eggs and jelly croûtons crottons.. press and Poached Poachd fille15 fillets of of sole, sole, cooled cooled under under aa press and cut cut to like 10ophoJes, loopholes, can look Jike can be lISed used as as decoration for bastions jelly of eel. eel. The The holes holes should should be filled in in with with truffles, of be filled truffies, jelly croûtons, Montpellier butter (see BUTTER, Compound cro0tons, and and Montpellier Compound prepared for grand occasions. butters). These dishes are bultp.r.I'). are prepared occasions. femme. ANGUILLE Eel ài la la bonne ANcUILLE À A LA rl BONNE soNr.rE FEMME FEMME -Eel bonne femme. pieces or Place an an ee) weight, either cut in left Place either cut eel of of average weight, in pieces or Ieft pan on and rolled rolled into aa ring, ring, in in aa pan on aa foundation foundation of 4 whole and (5 tablespoons) tablespoons (5 lightly fried fried in tablespoons in tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion Jightly pepper, add butter. Season with salt salt and pepper, butter. add aa bouquet garni and and pint, with 3 dl. dl. (t wine. Poach gently, moisten with t, 1l]t cups) white wine. $ pin pan, for with the the !id lid on for 25 with on the the pan, 25 minutes. Drain the the eel and arrange arrange on on croûtons crofftons of bread fried in Drain in eel and bread fried diced potatoes fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish with diced Boil down the pan juices by half, blend Boil blend with 1I tablespoon fish. Sprinkle with kneaded butter, strain, and pour over over the fish. parsley. chopped parsley. chopped Collared ee~ eel, cold. RoULADE D'ANGUILLE, FROIDE FRoTDE -- Bone Collared cold. ROULADE and stuff stuff an an eel, eel, make make into aa ring, ring, and and and proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for in for Ballottine of eel, eel, cold. Collared eel eel ài l'angevine. I'angevine. ROULADE Collared RoULADE D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLLE ÀA L'ANcEvINE -- Skin Skin and bone an L'ANGEVINE an eel eel and and season season with with salt salt and and

33r 331

EEL decoratively cut lemon. decoratively eut lemon. Serve Serve with with Diable Diable sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Eel Ià la fermibre. fermière. ANGUILLE ANGU-ILLE ,i, À rl LA rnnudns FERMIERE - Cut Cut an an eel Eel tbem in a pan on a foundation of 2 dl. into pieces and put them ($ Season (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) of a fondue (q.v.) of vegetables. Season dl. (scant with 2l with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with 2! dl. (scant It pint, with generous generous cup) white wine and add a bouquet garni. Bring Bring to cover the pan, pan. and cook for 25 to 30 minutes. Drain, the boil, cover cro0tons of bread. and arrange the the pieces pieces of eel eel on on fried fried croûtons bread. and and pour cream, and Boil down down the the pan pan juices, juices, thicken thicken with with cream, Boil

Fd Eel Ià I'italienne. l'italienne. ANGUILLE A AL'ITI,LIENxr L'[TALlENN"E- Cut a mediumsized eel eel in uniform unifonn pieces, rieces, season, and fry briskly in oil to stiffen the fish. nsh. Remove from from the pan, pan. and in in the same oil brown brown 2 tablespoons (3 (J tablespoons) chopped onion. When and 125 nearly nearly done, add add I1 teaspoon leuspoon chopped shallots and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.) diced mushrooms musbrooms or mushroom mushroom stalks. Put the the eel dl. (6 scant * back back into the the pan, pan, add add 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) and 2t dl. white wine and dl. (scant (seant t pint, pint, generous geoerous cup) tomato sauce. sauce. Simmer gently, genlly, with wÎth the lid on the pan, for 25 25 to to 30

I

sprinkle with chopped parsley, chervil To serve, minutes. To serve, sprinkle and tarragon. tarragon. Eel en matelote. ANcUILLE ANGUILLE EN MATELoTE MA TELOTI - Cut a a skinned for Matelote eel eel into pieces and prepare as as described described for Matelote d à la marinidre meunilre (see MATELOTE). marinière or d à la meunière Eel en matelote à h la normande. ANGUILLE ANG lJILLE sN EN tlrlTErorc MATELOTE A À proceed as LA Cut an LA NoRMANpB NORMANDE - Cut an eel eel into into pieces pieces and and proceed normande (se,e described described for Matelote Malelote d à la normande (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Eel ià la meuniire. meunière. lNcutI,re ANGUILLE A À rn LA Ir,muminn MEUNlÈRE- Cut small eels pieces. Season, into 10-cm. Season, dredge with flour 1O-cm. (,l-inch) (4-inch) pieces. f10ur and fry fry in on top, in butter. butter. Scatter chopped chopped parsley parsley on top, sprinkle sprinkle with lemon juice, butter (see juice, and cover caver with Noisette Noiselle bUller (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUll ers). D'ANGLTLLE Hot eel cnauo D'ANGlJlLLE eel pie Hot pie (English PÂTÉ CHAUD @nglish cookery). pArf A of aabout t'.lNcr,^arsn-- Cut trimmed of eel into slices of À L'ANGLAlSE t(immed fillets of bout 5 to drain, and leave 6^. (2 cm. (2 inches). inches). Blanch in in salted salted water, drain, leave 10 grated nutmeg, and cool. Season Season with salt, pepper, and grated cool. wjth salt, pepper, and nutmeg, and with chopped chopped parsley. sprinkle sprinkle with parsley. slices in aa pie dish, alternating Arrange alternating with Arrange the eel sJices wlth layers sliced hard-boiled eggs. Cover the of sliced bard-boiled eggs. Ihe fish fish with with white wine, (see with Puff and add a Cover with and a few dabs dabs of butter. butter. Cover Puff pastry pastry (see crimp the the edges, edges, and and DOUGH). Brush Brush with beaten egg, egg, crimp with beaten middle of the pastry to allow steam to make aa hole in the middle pastry to escape. Bake in a moderate oven for escape. for li hours. into the pie aa few To serve, pour ioto few tablespoons thin Demi Demiglace (see SAUCE). pArE m6nagire. PÂTÉ called à la aux fines fines herbes, calle
over the fish. rN rntclssfp an eel into eel. ANGUILLE EN FRICASSÉE - Cut an eel imo Fricassée of eel. Fricass6e (2| inches), pieces of about 6 to 7 cm. cm. (21 inches), season season with salt and pan. Add pepper, 12 wellpepper, and and put put into into aa well-buttered well-buttered pan. Add 12 and a a bouquet garni. garni. Moisten with with water blanched onions and Bring to the boil, cover and white wine in equal proportions. BrÎng and simmer for 25 to 30 minutes. About 5 minutes the pan, and add l0 tbe end of cooking cooking add 10 sliced mushrooms. before the dish, and and garnish Drain the arrange on on a the fish, fish, arrange a shallow shallow dish, Strain the with the the well-drained well-drained onions onions and and mushrooms. Strain with (scant I cup) pan Veloutd cup) tbin thin Velouté pan juices, juices, add 3 tablespoons (seant add 3 sauce (see SA UCE) and boil down by half. SAUCE) (6 tablespoons, Add mixed with wilh I1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant egg yolks mixed Add 22 egg oz., t cup) butter. butter. Strain, and pour E (2 oz.,i *t cup) cream and 50 g. fried in cro0tons fried fish. Garnish heart-shaped croûtons over the fish. Garnish with heart-shaped butter. Skin small small eels, eels, make light Fried Fried eel. eel. ANGUILLE FRITE -- Skin figures of and twist into rings or figures incisions on backs, and twist into rings or on Ihe the backs, incisions in milk, dredge with eigbt. with skewers. Soak in wîth flour eight. Secure with parsley and fried parsley and quarters and În deep fat. fat. Garnish with fried and fry in of lemon. an eel eel into oRLy -- Slice Slice an Fried eel Orly. ANGUILLE FRITE ORLY Fried eel Orly. .lucuILLE dry. GarnÎsh Garnish fiUets, balter, and dry. season, dip in a light batter, fillets, flatten, season, SAUCE). with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with eel slices can be dipped in beaten egg and breadcrumbs The eel instead of butter. butter.

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lj

i

Gallantine of of eel Gallantine in a coil. coil, arranged io arrange
D'ANGInLLE coil. GALANTINE cALANTINE D'ANGUILLE Galantine of eel arranged in aa eoit. with Pike forcemeat à d la EN VOLUIT voLUTE - Bone Bone aalarge eel. Stuff wi EN large eel. th Pike

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(q.v.) of (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) and and with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) crime (see crème fillets of sole sole [0 to which which truffies truffies have been added. added. Twist the fillets have been with into aa dome dome shape, shape, and and secure secure with eel, eel, coiling it upwards into string [0 to help help it it keep keep this this shape. shape. Cook Cook in in aa well-flavoured well-flavoured string fish stock. stockwhite wine fish leave to to cool. with Chaud-froid sauce Drain, cool. Cover Drain, and and Icave Cover with (see SAUCE) with the the Iiquor liquor in in which which the the fish fish (see SAUCE) prepared with with truffies truffies and and hard-boiled hard-boiled egg was cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with was jelly. Serve on aa bed of rice, or white. Glaze Glaze with fish jelly. of.cooked or cooked riee. white. bread croûtons. cro0tons. on buttered bread jellied eel. eel. GALANTINE D'ANGurm ÀA LA Galantine of of jellied clrnNTrNE D'ANGUILLE r,c, Galantine for Cold ballottine ofeel. cfrm -- Another name for of eel. GÉLEE eel maitre maitre d'hôtel. d'h6tel. ANGUILLE ANGUTLLE GRILLÉE cnnr6n MAtTRE u.drnr GriUed Grilld eel o'tt6ttt -- Prepare Prepare the the eel eel as as described described for for Eel àd la la diable, diable, D'H6TEL omitting the the mus1ard. mustard. Cover Cover with with softened softend Maître Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel omitting (see BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound bUllers). butters). buller can be served witb with ail recommended Grilld eel eel can all the sauces recommended be served Grilled grilled fish. for grilled

i

332 332

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EEL

(Robert Carrier) Eel en Eel en matelote matelote (Robert Carrier)

333 333

EFFERVESCENCE EFFER VESCENCE L'ANGLATSE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Hal Hot eel eel L'ANGLAISE pie. Leave Leave la to cool cool for for several several hours hours before before serving. serving. pie. pArf fROiD pie ài la Cold eel eel pie la ménagère. m6nagire. PÂTÉ rnon D'ANGUILLE D'ANcr.[rrr ÀA Cold rl MÉNAGÈRE MfN,c,ctRE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for the recipe for HOI Hot LA pie aux pie isis quite eel pie aux fines herbes. When quite cold, When the the pie pour in cold, pour in fines herbes. eel jelly made through the the opening pastry, liquid opening in in the the pastry, liquid aspic aspic jelly made through from fisn fish bones. bones. Leave Leave for get cold for 12 12 hours hours to to get cold again. again. from pArr FROID pie with CoH eel eel pÎe with truffles. trufres. PÂTÉ rnom D'ANGUILLE D'ANcurLr-E AUX Ar.rx Cold TRUFFES -- As As HOI Hot eel pie will! eel pie truffies. Finish with truffies. Finish with with fish fish aspic aspic TRUFFES jelly based based on on truffle trufre essence. essence. Leave Leave for get cold. for 12 12 hours hours to to get cold. jelly prfuoNrarsn - Prepare pi6montaise. ANGUILLE EeI ài la la piémontaise. ANGUTLLE À A 1--\ m PIÉMONTAISE Eel - Prepare medium-sizd eel, eel, or or eel eel slices, slices, as as described described in in the recipe the recipe aa medium-sized for Gri/led Grilled eel eel maître maitre d'hôlel. d'h6tel. Arrange Arrange on on aa faundation foundation of of for pidmontadse (see (see RICE). Risotto àd la Ia piémontaise RICE). Surround Surround with with aa border RisOllO (see SA of Tomalo Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). of UCE). pournrre -- Fry poulette. ANGUILLE Eel àt la la poulette. ANGUTLLE À A LA r,c, POULETTE Fry 22 tabletableEel (3 tablespoons) spoons (3 gently in tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion gently in butter. Add Add spoons eel slices, slices, cooking cooking them them for for aa minute minute or or two two in in the the butter. eel pepper, and Sprinkle with with salt salt and and pepper, and 1I tablespoon tablespoon Hour. flour. Cover Cover Sprinkle the fish fish with with white white wine wine and garni. Simmer and add add aa bouquet bouquet garni. Simmer the gently, with pan, for with the the lid lid on on the the pan, for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. About About gently, l0 minutes minutes before peeled, sliced before serving serving add 12 peeled. add 12 sliced mushrooms. 10 garnished with Serve the the fish fish garnished with the the mushrooms. mushrooms. Thicken Thicken the Serve juices with pan juices yolks, as with egg egg yolks, as described described for for Poule Poulette sauce pan Ile sauce (see SAUCE). pour overthe SAUCE). Strain, Strain, pour over the fish, fish, and and sprinkle with with (see parsley. chopped parsley. chopped pnovENgALE - Fry Eel ài la provengale. ANGmLLE la provençale. ANGUTLLE À A LA r,c, PROVENÇALE ~l - Fry 2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped gently in chopped onion onion gently in oil, oil, tablespoons eel slices slices and add eel and toss toss in the fried fried onion. onion. Season Season with with salt add in the pepper, add and pepper, add 44 peeled, deseeded, chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, a and peeled, deseeded, garni, and garlic. Moisten bouquet garni, and aa little crushed garlic. with 1I dL dl. bouquet little crusbed Moisten with (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant! scant I cup) cup) white white wine. gently with Simmer with (6 wine. Sim mer gently pan for ,25 to the lid on on the 30 minutes. minutes. About About 10 l0 minutes the pan for .25 to 30 the lid before serving add add20 Simmer slowly. Sprinkle Sprinkle before serving 20 black black olives. olives. Simmer with serving. with chopped chopped parsley parsley just just before before serving. Eel risotto. ANcUTLLE Rrsorro. See See Eel Ia ANGUIlLE AU AU RISOTTO. Eel àd la Eel with witb rÎsoUo. piCmontaise. piémontaise. Eel la romrine. r.,c, Rorr,rA,rr.[E A LA Eel ià la romaine. ANcurLr.,E ANGUilLE À ROMAINE -- Cut Cut aa mediummediumsize Season with salt and size eel eel into into 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) (2-inch) pieces. pieces. Season with salt pepper (12 o2.,2| g. (12 pepper and aod fry fry briskly briskly in in butter. buUer. Add Add 350 350 g. oz., 2~ cups) freshly freshly shelled shelled garden garden peas, peas, a a small small lettuce lettuce shredded shredded into îoto aa chffinade chiffonade (q.v.), (q.v.), 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., Ol., iI cup) cup) butter butter and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 slowly in (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) white while wine. wine. Cook Cook slowly in an an uncovered uncovered pan. pan. Just Just before before serving, serving, blend blend in in ji tablespoon tablespoon kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Eel Ee1 on on skewers skewers ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. ANcUTLLE ANGUlLLE EN EN BRocHErre BROCHETTE A À juice, L'ANcLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Marinate Marinate eel eel pieces pieces in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, pepper, pepper, salt, salt, and aod chopped chopped parsley parsley for for I1 hour. hour. Drain, Drain, dredge dredge in flour, flour, dip dip in in egg, egg, and and roll roll in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Thread Tbread on on metal skewers, puttîng a a slice slice of of fat fat bacon bacon between betweeo each each piece piece of of skewers, putting fish. fish. Grill Grill on on aa low low flame. flame. Garnish Garnish with with parsley, parsley, and and half half slices slices of of decoratively decoratively cut lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eel Eel ià la la tartare tartare I. J. al.rcurrr-E ANGUILLE A À r.l LA rmrmrTARTARE - Cook Cook eel eel slices sUces in courl-bouillon. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in this this liquor. liquor. in white white wine wine court-bouillon. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, dip dip ir in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Garnish Garoish with with fried fried parsley parsley and and serve serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA VCE). Frl Eel ià la la tartare tartare II. U. lNcurrrs ANGlJ1LLE A À r,l LA r,c,RrA,nn TARTARE -- Cook Cook the the eel eel as as described described above. above. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, coat coat with with melted melted butter, butter, and and roll roll in in finely finely grated grate
Cold eel eel tourte. tourte. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TorJRrE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE -- Proceed Proceed as as Cold described in in the the recipe recipe for pie àd la for Cold Cold eel eel pie la ménagère, minagire, using using described pie dish dish with with slightly slightly raised raised edges. edges. aa pie CoId eel eel tourte tourte Rabelais. Rabelais. TOURTE FRoTDE D'ANGUILLE TouRTE FROIDE D'ANcurLLE Cold RABELAIS -- Bone Bone an an eel, eel, flatten flatten it, put itit into it, and and put into aa shallow shallow RABELAIS pepper and dish with with salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with aa few few tabletabledish spoons white white wine, wine, aa litùe little brandy, brandy, and and olive olive oil. oil. Leave Leave for for spoons hour to place. to marinate marinate in in aa cool cool place. 1I hOill Stuffthe (see FORCEMEAT, eel with with whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Stuff the eel Fish forcemeM II) in in alterna alternate layers with with shelled shelled crayfish crayfish Fish ce layers forcemeat II) tails, olives olives stuffed stuffed with with anchovy pieces of anchovy fillets, fillets, and and pieces of trume. truffie. tails, pie pastry pastry aa pie Line with with pie pie dish dish which which has has slightly slightly raised raised Line edges. Cover Cover the the pastry with with aa layer layer of whiting forcemeat of whiting forcemeat edges. parsley. Reshape the mixed with with chopped chopped parsley. the eel eel and and put itit into into mixed pie dish. dish. the pie Fill the pie with the middle middle of of the the pie with small small rolled rolled fillets fillets of of sole, sole, Fill half of of them them stuffed stuffed with with whiting whiting forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with half (see BUTTER, Compound Crayfish buller butter (see Compound bUllers), butters), the other other Crayfish half pur6e of mixed with with aa purée of truffies. trufres. ha If with whiting forcemeat mixe
EFFERVESCENCE EFFERVESCENCE - The release of gas in a liquid.

EGG.HOLDER. EGG-HOLDER. orurnrm. OEUFRIER

--

Utensil used used for soft-boiling

eggs.

EGGNOG. LAIr LAIT DE DE pouI,E POULE - Nourishing drink made from pint,2t cups) sweetened egg yolk mixed mixed with It litre (scant pint, water or milk, roilk, flavoured with orange-flower orange-flower water, vanilla, vaniHa, or grated nutmeg, nutmeg, and laced laced with rum or brandy. brandy. The The Germans Gennans make make a a beer beer eggnog eggnog which which they they call cali biersuppe. biersuppe. This This is prepared prepared as follows: Boil Boil 22 litres litres (3{ (31 pints, pints, 4} 4t pints) pints) beer beer with 500 g. (18 (\8 oz., 2| cups) cups) sugar, sugar, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, aa little Iittle grated grated lemon rind rind and a pinch pinch of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Add Add 8 egg yolks yolks mixed mixed with I1 tabletablespoon cold milk. milk. Strain and and chill. chilI. Just before before serving serving add add fried fried black black bread bread crottons croûtons and 100 100 g. (4 (4 o2.,3 oz., j cup) cup) each of of raisins raisins and and currants currants which which have have been been cooked cooked in in 55 dl. (scant (scant pint,Zf, pint, 2;\ cups) cups) water water and and well weil drained. drained.

2t

2*

EGGPLANT EGGPLANT _- See See AUBERGINE. AUBERGINE. EGGS. EGGS. oEt/Fs OEUFS -- The The eggs eggs of of fish, fish, birds birds and and even even reptiles reptiles can can

all ail be be used used as as food. food. Hens' Hens' eggs, eggs, however, however, are are mostly mostly used used in in cookery, cookery, and and it it is is with with them them that that the the following following article article mainly mainly deals. dea)s. Eggs Eggs are are very very nutritious. nutritious. They They are are often often eaten eaten raw, raw, particularly particularly in in country country districts. districts. Composition of eggs eggs -- The The average average weight weight of of aa hen's hen's egg egg Composition of 334 334

EGGS EGGS Ostrich, Ostrich, turkey, turkey, peacock peacock and and duck duck eggs eggs are are bigger bigger than than

is is 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.). oz.). The The shell sheli weighs weighs about about 12 12 per per cent cent of of the the total weight weight of of the the egg egg and and isÎs made made of of aa calcareous, calcareous, porous porous total substance which which is is pervious pervious to to air, air, water, water, and and smells. smells. It It isis substance lined lined with with aa delicate, delicate, pellucid pellucid membrane membrane which wruch separates separates itself from from the the shell shell at at the the larger larger end end of of the the egg egg to to form form the the itself air air chamber. cham ber. The The size size of of this this chamber cham ber is is in in inverse inverse proproportion portion to to the the freshness freshness of of the the egg egg -- the the fresher fresher the the egg egg the the

chicken chicken eggs; eggs; pigeon, pigeon, guinea-fowl, guinea-fowl, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge,

lapwing, lapwing, plover ployer and and gull gull eggs eggs are are smaller. sm aller. All Ali these these are are of of aa similar composition except except for for duck duck and and goose goose eggs, eggs, which which similar composition are are more more oily. oily. Digestibility Digestibility of of eggs eggs -- Soft-boiled Soft-boiled eggs, eggs, poached poached eggs, eggs, and and eggs eggs en en cocotte cocotte are are easily easily digested, digested, unless unless served served with with aa heavy heavy garnish garnish such such as/oie as foie gras, gras, trufles, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. The The same same applies appIies to to omelettes omelettes and and scramblod scrambled eggs, eggs, although although these, these, even ev en without without a a garnish, garnish, are are not not as as easily easily digested digested as as those those mentioned mentioned above. above. Fried Fried eggs eggs are are fairly fairly digestible digestible ifif they they are are not not over over browned browned in in the the butter butter or or fat fat in in which which they they are are cooked. cooked. Hard-boiled Hard-boiled eggs eggs take take longer longer to to digest digest than than any any of of the the others. A hard-boiled egg egg cut cut into into very very small small fragments fragments is is A hard-boiled more more easily easily digested. digested. The The average average diet diet should should not not contain contain more more than than 2 2 or or 33 eggs weekly (in (in whatever whatever form form they they are are served) served) and and these these should preferably preferably be be eaten eaten at at the the midday midday meal. meal. Freshness Freshness of of eggs eggs - A A fresh fresh egg egg is is heavy. heavy. When When shaken, shaken, it it should should feel feel well-filled. weU-filled. As As the the shell shell is is porous, porous, the the water water egg evaporates. which which encloses the the inner inner part part of of the the egg evaporates. An An egg egg gauge It is easy to day. It every day. loses aa tiny tiny fraction fraction in in weight weight every is easy to gauge cent the the freshness of of an an egg by by plunging plunging it it into into a a 12 12 per per cent If the egg is salted water solution of of salted water (kitchen (kitchen salt). salt). If the egg is very very the water. once to fresh, at once fresh, it it falls falls at to the the bottom bottom of of the water. If If it it is is aa This method on top. If it is few days old it it floats. Ifit is bad bad it it floats floats on top. This method and water and in water been preserved does not apply to eggs that that have have been preserved in or other liquid. limestone, or Iiquid. exclusion preserved by by the Eggs are are preserved eggs -- Eggs Preservation of eggs Preservation the exclusion solution in aa proprietary dipped in can either be of air. air. They can of be dipped proprietary solution waterof waterin aa solution solution of submerged in or kept kept submerged stored, or and then stored, and Eggs not be used for for boiliog. boiling. Eggs glass. Preserved eggs be used eggs should should not glass. powder. preserved by desiccation into powder. can also be be preserved desiccation into

smaller the the chamber. chamber. smaller The The albumen, albumen, or or white white of of the the egg, egg, is is a a thick, truck, viscous, viscous, transparent liquid, liquid, with with a a high high percentage percentage of of water, water, and and transparent sorne mineral mineral substances. substances. Albumen Albumen is is soluble soluble in in cold cold water. water, some congeals congeals at at 70"C. 70°C. (158"F.) (158°F.) and and remains remains from from then then on insoluble. insoluble. It forms forms about 58 per per cent cent of of the the total total weight weight of of the egg. egg. the vitellus, or yolk yolk of the the egg egg (30 (30 per per cent cent of the total The vitellus, is an an opaque, opaque, soft soft substance substance which which congeals congeals in weight), is heat. The yolk is is composed of albumins, albumins, fats fats containing containing heat. vitarnins, lecithins, leci thins, nucleins, nucleins, chlorestins, chlorestins, and and mineral mineraI vitamins, substances including including a a ferruginous ferruginous pigment pigment called caUed substances haematogen, which which gives gives itit its its colour. col our. haematogen, The composition of the egg varies with the breed of the influences the flavour of of the hen and its diet -- the latter also influences egg. egg. The best best eggs eggs come from free-range hens, which eat eat the The proportion of grain and and vegetable vegetable matter. right proportion It DieteticaIly, the the fresh egg egg is is almost almost a a complete food. food. It Dietetically, fats, Vitamins A, B, B, D contains easily assimilable proteins, fats, of (only Vitamin C is absent), an appreciable amount amount of and E (only iron, and a number number of of valuable mineral minerai salts: magnesium, a minute quantity quantity of calcium, calcium, sodium, potassium, manganese, minute fluorine, etc. The egg, being chlorine, iodine, fluorine, being a copper, zinc, chlorine, bearer of life, also contains precious oligo-elements. The table table below shows that the average egg yolk weighing (* oz.) g. (1 than the white, 18 times more calories than supplies 6 times 18 g. oz.) supplies (l| oz.). which weighs g. (li weighs 35 g.

DE CUISSON DEs OEUFS oEUFS -rrt6rsooEs DE culssoN DES DISHES. MÉTHODES BASIC EGG EGG DISHES. BASIC should be be used. used. fresh eggs eggs should only fresh In cooking cooking and and baking, baking, only ln (hard). OEUFS the eggs eggs into into aa DURS -- Plunge Plunge the oEUFs DURS Boiled eggs eggs (hard). BoUed l0 minutes, minutes, according according pan of boiling to JO for 88 to water and and boil boil for boiling water pan to size. to under aa cold cold in co or under water or stand in cold Drain the the eggs eggs and and stand Drain Id water recipe. to the the recipe. hot or cold, according according to or cold, use hot and use tap. Peel Peel them them and tap. into aa (soft). OEUFS Plunge the the eggs eggs into MoLLErs -- Plunge eggs (soft). oEUFs MOLLETS Boiled eggs BoUed minutes. Shell them pan of to 44 minutes. Shell them Boil for for 33 to water. Boil of boiIing boiling water. pan pan of hot salted salted of hot warn in in aa .(jan keep warm and keep under cold cold water water and under until serving. serving. water until water

EGG AN AVERAGE EGG OF AN COMPOSITION COMPOSITION OF Water Albumen Fats Weight Weight Water Albumen Fats Shell 7 g. Shell g. 4·5g. White g. 30 35 4.5 e. Og. 0 g. white 35 g. 30 g. g. 2·9 99 g. Yolk g. 18 Yolk 2'9 g. 5'7 g. l8 g. e. 5·7 e. Whole g. 39 g. 5'7 g. 7'49. Whole egg egg 60 60 g. 39 g. 5·7 e. 7-4 e.

Salts Calories Calories Salts 0.25 g. 0'25g. 0'25 g. 0·25g. 0'509. 0·50g.

l0 e. lOg. 63 g. e. 73g. 73g.

M. Alquier Alquier tables of of M. From the the tables From

of salted per cent solution plunge itinto solution ofsalted intoaa1212percent To test test the the freshnessofan freshness of anegg, egg,plungeit To floats daysold old floats Anegg2 bottom;An water: AAfresb fallsatatonce oncetototbe the bottom; freshegg eggfalls water: egg 2 days ontop top floatson 2-week old oldegg eggfloats risestotothe thesurface; surface;AA2-week midway; An Anegg4 egg 4daysold days oldrises midway;

33s 335

EGGS EGGS

Boiled Boiled eggs eggs and and garnished garnished eggs eggs en en cocotte cocolle ((Robert Carrier) Robert Carrier)

336 336

EGGS EGGS (q.v.), on croustades (q.v.), on round croustades or round can also be served on tartlets tartiets or recipe chosen. chosen. Garnish Garnish in the recipe or as as shown in artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, or suitable and serve with aa sui table sauce. Either simple or fluted fiuted moulds mou Ids can be used.

Drain the t'he eggs eggs and and garnish garnish them, them, or serve with with sauce, sauce, Drain according to to the the recipe. recipe. Soft-boiled eggs eggs are are served served and according garnished garnished in in the the same same way way as poached poached eggs. Eggs en en cocottg cocotte, cassolettes cassolettes or or caissettes. caissettes. oEUFS OEUFS EN Eggs COCOTTE -- This way way of of preparing preparing eggs is a combination of cocorrE and poached eggs dà la la coque coque (see below) below) and poached eggs (see below). eggs Warrn small smali round round or or oval oval dishes, made made of of china, earthenWarm ware, metal, metal, or fireproof fireproof glass. glass. Butter the dishes, dishes, or coat ware, with a pur6e, purée, according according to the recipe. Use Use I1 or 2 eggs eggs for with each dish. dish. each oyen, in a pan half-filled half-filled with water. Place the the dishes dishes in the oven, Place Leave for 6 to to 8 minutes, according according to the number of eggs Leave oven. when taking them from the oyen. in each dish. Salt the eggs when of the dishes. Place thern them on a flat fiat dish. Clean the outside of au naturel naturel or garnished. garnished. Serve az m COQUE Eggs dà la coque @oited (boiled in their shells). OEUFS À LA coQue -oEUFs A Leave aa First method. Plunge Plunge the the egg egg into boiling boiling water. water. Leave First method. mediurn-sized egg for 3 minutes, aa larger larger one, seconds 30 seconds one, 30 medium-sized longer. Second method. method. Plunge the eggs eggs into boiling water. water. Boil minute. Remove from the the heat, heat, and the hot in the and leave in for I1 minute. water for 33 minutes. water Third method. Coyer in aa saucecold water in Cover the eggs with cold from the the saucepan pan. Bring them to the boil boil and and remove from as soon as as the water is boiling. as pans, for Fourth method. for 3 special pans, in special the eggs, eggs, in Fourth method. Steam Steam the minutes. The times given above can be to taste. taste. be varied according to

Omelette Omelette

prepare an than an omelette omelette than to prepare difficult to It isis less less difficult Omelette Omelette -- lt points: following points: the foIlowing observe the For success, success, observe itit seems. seems. For high. be very very high. The The fiame flame must must be pan, in else nothing else in which which nothing frying pan, clean frying Use obsolutely cIean Use an an obsolutely isis ever cooked. ever cooked. moment. last moment. only at at the the last lightly and and only Beat the eggs eggs lightly Beat the fat. butter or or fat. much butter Do Do not not use use too too much yourself. in yourself. Have Have confidence confidence in quantities. people use For the following following quantities. use the For 44 people ground freshly ground salt and and freshly with salt Lightly Season with beat 88 eggs. eggs. Season Lightly beat pepper. pepper. pan frying pan (ll oz., butter inin the the frying g. (11o2.,3 tablespoons) butter Heat 3 tablespoons) Heat 35 35 g. Mix with fork. with aa fork. high fiame. flame. Mix over aa high and Cook over add the the eggs. eggs. Cook and add Fold evenly cooked. cooked. Fold pan so the omelette omelette isis evenly Shake so that that the Shake the the pan quick movement, movement, down with with 1I quick itit over upside down and tum tum itit upside over once once and onto dish. warmed dish. onto aa warmed the sauce from from the serve with with aa sauce and serve Garnish the omelette omelette and Garnish the section. omelette this section. recipes in in this omelette recipes pocufs -- FiIl pan with with salted salted Fill aa pan Poached eggs. OEUFS oEUFs POCHÉS Pooched eggs. (scant quart, quart, generous generous litre (scant water salt toto 1I litre lj teaspoons teaspoons salt water -- It boil. Bring toto the theboil. vinegar. Bring quart) quart) water. Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. water. Add thespot spot where where ititisis on the Break liquid exactly exactly on into the the liquid the eggs eggs into Break the gently for bubbling. for 33minutes. minutes. Simmer gently bubbling. Simmer each skimmer. Put Puteach Drain withaaskimmer. time, with oneatataa time, Drain the the eggs, eggs, one removing theeggs eggs by byremoving one Trim the fresh water. water. Trim into fresh separatelyinto one separately (with fresh hardly be necessary). the be necessary). thisshould should hardly fresh eggs eggsthis the blisters blisters (with are until they they are Leave hot, salted salted water water until dish of of hot, thern inin aa dish Leave them served. served. or toasted toasted fried or Drain themon onfried theeggs. eggs.Place Place them and dry dry the Drain and slices can also also be be recipe. They Theycan therecipe. bread,according according toto the slicesof of bread, rice,semolina, semolina, served bedof ofrice, onaabed oron tartlets,or croustades,inintartlets, served on on croustades, potatoes, potatoes, artichoke hearts, etc. etc. artichoke hearts, Garnish therecipe recipe according totothe sauceaccording cover with withaasauce and coyer Garnishand chosen. chosen. Scrambled scrambled snou[r6s - - WeIl-made Well-made scrambled eggs. OEUFS oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs. eggs care- cookod with withcare should be becooked theyshould delicious, but but they aredelicious, eggsare garnishedinin they canbe begarnished Theycan and creamy. creamy.They smooth and theymust must be besmooth various various ways. ways. people. First quantities for for44people. thefollowing following quantities Firstmethod. Usethe method. Use Me1t cup) butter panwith fryingpan withaa smallfrying butterininaasmaII Melt50 oz., i.up) 50g.g.(2(2oz., heavy beat eggsand andbeat Break88eggs smallsaucepan. saucepan. Break oraasmall heavybottom, bottom, or

Fried Fried egg egg and and bacon bacon

Fried methods. FRIrs -- There There are are 22 methods. eggs. OEUFS oEUFS FRITS Fried eggs. Fried. plenty of fat, oil, or butter. butter. oil, or of fat, at aa time time in in plenty Fried. Cook Cook 1I egg egg at The yolk. should coyer cover the the yolk. The white white should Sautéed. pan with on fat, oil, oil, or or butter, butter, on with fat, frying pan Sautied. Cook Cook in in aa frying 1I side plate. onto aa dish dish or or plate. and tum turn onto side or or both, both, and Heat pan. Use the egg egg let the enough to to let frying pan. Use enough Heat oil oil in small frying in aa smaU fioat. with salt. salt.Siide Slide season with and season into aa cup cup and float. Break Break the the egg egg into itit into yolk with with aa white round round the the yolk and draw draw the the white into the the hot hot oil oil and wood en spoon seal it. it. wooden spoon to to seal Drain garnish as for each each recipe. recipe. shown for as shown Drain the the eggs eggs and and garnish Eggs to the the dish belongs belongs to uourEs -- This This dish in aa mould. ortrFs MOULÉS mould. OEUFS Eggs in grande prepared at home. grande cuisine, at home. easily be be prepared cuisine, but but can can easily Coat Add with butter. butter. Add dariole moulds moulds with insides of of dariole the insides Coat the chopped recipe. parsley, ham, to the the recipe. ham, truffies, truffies, etc. etc. according according to chopped parsley, Ids. Break lined mou moulds. Break the the eggs eggs into into the the lined Cook the Leave inin the for 88 toto 12 12 minutes. minutes. Leave in aa bain-marie bain-marie for Cook in moulds out. taking out. minutes before before taking for aa few few minutes moulds for Place Moulded eggs eggs toasted bread. bread. Moulded or toasted of fried fried or on slices slices of Place on

±

337 337

EGGS EGGS together lightly, lightly, as as for for an an omelette. omelette. Scason Season them them and and add add together to the the butter pan. Cook butter inin the the pan. over aa low Cook over low heat, heat, stirring stirring to constantly with with aa wood wooden constantly en spoon. When the the eggs are are cooked, remove them from the stove When g. (2 oz., and add add 50 50 g. cup) butter, pieces. Mîx oz., i-f cup) butter, eut cut into into small small pieces. Mix and well and and keep keep hot hot in in aa bain-marie bain-marie until until serving. serving. well Garnish according according to to the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Garnish Second method. method. Use Use Cla double double saucepan. saucepan. Half-till Half-fill the the Second pan with bottom pan with warm wann water. water. Cook Cook eggs eggs and and buller butter in in the the hottom pan, stirring smaller pan, stirring with wooden spoon. with aa wooden spoon. smaller When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, add little more add aa tiule more buller, butter, eut cut When pieces. into small small pieces. into or 33 tab!espoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream cream can can be be added added to to 22 or scrambled eggs eggs after after they are are cooked. cooked. scrambled They can can be be served served in small small or (q.v.) or large large crous/ades croustades (q.v.) They puff pastry; in made from from puff (q.v.) made tn timbales timbales (q.v.) made from plain from plain made pastry; in in cassolettes (q.v.); in in hollowed-out hollowed-out vegelables; vegetables; or or pie dishes. in metal metal or or china china pie pulr -- For Eggs sur plat, or le plat, sur Je or shirred shirred eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs SUR srJR LE LE PLAT Eggs this simple simple way way of of cooking eggs special dîshes dishes are are used, used, this which are are eitber either for for individual portions (J(l or or 2 eggs) eggs) or or for which cooking severa! several al at once. once. cooking For Iwo two eggs eggs coat coat the the dish dish with with tI tab!espoon tablespoon butter. butter. Heat Heat For on the the stove. stove. Break Break the the eggs into into the pour melted the dish dish and and pour melted on butter on on the the yolks. Cook in the the oven oven for for as as long long as as is is Iiked liked butter and when when ready, sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine salt. salt. and Garnish or or cover cover with with aa sauce sauce according according 10 to the the instrucGarnish given alphabetically tions given alphabetically below. below. tions

Ambassadrice eggs 1I (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or poached), OEUFS or poached). oEUFs puff pastry pastry and with putf and 0 uSlades (q.v.) with - Make crcroustades garnish with (q.v.) of truffies and with aa salpicon (q.v.) gras, blended andfoie blended garnish foie gras, with concentrated Demi-glace sauce (se SA sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured with UCE) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Put Put the the caoked cooked eggs eggs on on the the croustades croustades and and with mask them (see SA them with with Suprême Supr€me sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish with with mask UCE). Garnish asparagus tips blended blended with with butter. butter. (en cocotte). Ambassadrice eggs n tr (en cocotte). OEUFS orurs AMBASSADRICE AMBAssADRTcE -Line the gras purée the cocolles (see PURÉE) cocottes with Foie Foie gras purie (see PUREE) and and Line sprinkle with with chopped choppod truffies. trufres. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the lined lined sprinkle dishes and cook in and cook in aa bain-marie. bain-marre. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, dishes garnish with take them them out, out, garnish with asparagus tips, and and surround surround take the yolk with with Suprême (see SAUCE) 10 SuprAme sauce sauce (sec to which which sherry sherry the AMBAssADRrcr AMDASSADRICE

has been added. added. has Ambassadrice eggs

III (sr lele plat).

oBuFs AMBAssADRTcE

-

Cook the eggs rur Ie plat in the usual way. When ready, garnish with a salpicon of foie gras, truffies, and asparagus tips. Surround with Supr€me sauce (se SAUCE) with sherry added. (soft-boiled or Amdlie eggs 1I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oErrFs AMÉLŒ ltrafrre -Arrange the eggs on puff pastry croustades garnished with aa (q.v.) of vegetables fine mirepoÎx mirepolx (q.v.) vegetables (cooked in in butter butter unti! until fine they are are soft) soft) and and with with Madeira Madeira wine pan wine poured into into the the pan they the vegetables have been taken taken out. out. after the Mask the eggs eggs with aa Cream (se SAUCE). sauce (see Crearn sauce SAUCE). Garnish Garnish in cream. with morels cooked în (srr le Am6lie eggs n tr (sur le plat). OEUFS l.rr,rfrn -- Cook onurs AMÉLŒ Cook the the eggs Amélie in ovenproof ovenproof dishes dishes on on aa mirepoix mirepoix of of vegetables vegetables with in Madeira. Garnish with morels cooked cooked in cream. Madeira. (frid). OEUFS Eggs oEr.rFs À A L'AMÉRICAINE r.'lufnrcArNE -Eggs àn l'am6ricaine l'américaine 1I (fried). Fry the the eggs in butter. Gamish Garnish with 2 slices slices grilled or fried grilled tomato. bacon and j grilled tomato. Eggs i l'am6ricaine l'lunp~';'''lIi....,, tr Il (soft-boiled (wft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS onurs ÀA r'lqufnrcalxr - Arrange the cooked eggs on fried eggs on fried bread or croustades. Garnish with pieces of Lobster (or spiny lobster) h I'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). Pour Amiricaine (see Américaine sauce (see SAUCE) over the eggs. (urr le platf oEUFs Eggs t Pam6ricaine Itr (sur OEUFS A .À. r'AlafnrcarNs L'AM:ÉRICAINE (or sprny eggs onto 2 pieces of Lobster Lobsler (or spiny lobster) lobsler) hà - Break 2 eg$ l'amiricaine l'américaine (see LOBSTER) AT~C'-"'Ln in a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish. Bake wth Amdricaine in the the oven. oven. Surround Surround with Amhîcaine sauce sauce (see (see Bake in

EGG DISHES. rrs DrvERs APPRÊTS eppnfrs D'oEUFs. LES DlVERS D'OEUFS. EGG D1SHES. Eggs I'africaine (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS orurs ÀA Eggs ài l'africaine L'AFRIcATNE Arrange the cooked eggs in a circle on a layer L'AFRICA1NE·- Arrange (q.v.). of couscous couscous (q.v.). of Peel and and dîce dice aubergines, oil and saut6 them and add add to the Peel aubergines, sauté them in in oil ring. ring. Peel and dîœ dice swee! sweet peppers and cook cook in consomm6. Peel and peppers and in aa consommé. (sen SAUCE), Make Tomato sauce sauce (see peppers and SAUCE), add add the and Make a a Tomato the peppers pour over the it over the eggs. eggs. pour it Bggs Eggs ili l'agenaise l'agellsise (sur le le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS A A r'^lceN.qJss L'AGENAISE Saut6 chopped Sauté chopped onions onions in goose goose fat. fat. When When cooked, cooked, add add garlic garlic and of and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Cook Cook the the eggs eggs ru," sur le le plat plat on on a a bed bed of this this onion onion mixture. mixture. Garnish sautEed in Garnish with with peeled, peeled, diced diced aubergines, aubergines, sautéed in goose goose fat. fat. Aladdin AJaddin eggs I (sur le le ptat). plat). onurs OEUFS ALADTN ALADIN ~ Bake Bake the eggs in ln ovenproof OV(!nr:lfOI:l1 dishes on on a a foundation foundation of of onions onions saut6ed in butter butter until until soft. soft. Garnish Swee/ peppers peppers dà l'orientale l'orien/ale (see (see PEPPERS) Garnish with with Sweet and and saffron-flavoured saffron-flavoured Risotto Risotto (see RICE). RICE). Surround Surround with with aa border border of of Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Aladdin Aladdin eg$ tr Il (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). l'U~I\;'''<::U)' oErrFS OEUFS ALADTN ALADIN -Arrange Arrange the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in aa circle on on aa layer layer of of saffronsaffronflavoured Risotto (see flavoured Risollo (see RICE). RICE). Garnish Garnish with with Sweet Swee/ peppers peppers dà I'orientale l'orienlale (see (sec PEPPERS) PEPPERS) and and mask mask the the eggs with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) spiced spiced pinch with with aa pinch of cayenne. Eggs Eggs A à I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I1 (fried). oEUFs A r',tlslcrENNE Arrange Arrange the the fried fried eggs eggs on On a a layer of of braised braised sauerkraut, sauerkraul, alternating them them with with slices slices of of ham. ham. Surround Surround with with aa border border (see of Demi-glace 1Je,ml-.flla,~e sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs i I'alsacienne II Il (soft-boiled or or poached). orurs OEUFS A À L'ALSAcTENNE L'ALSACIENNE -- Arrange Arrange the cooked eooked eggs eggs in aa dish on on aa layer layer of of braised braised sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Garnish Garnish with wilh thin Ihin slices sJices of of cooked cooked ham. ham. Cover Cover with wlth Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs ila I'alsacienne ,'alsacienne III (srr le plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À r',trslctnNNE L'ALSACIENNECook the eggs eggs ral sur lele plat piaf in goose go ose fat. Garnish Garnish with with I1tabletablespoon spoon braised braised sauerkraut sauerkraut and and aa slice slice of of ham. ham. Surround Surround with with aa border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

sAUCE). SAUCE). Anchovy Anchory eggs eggs 1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). onurs OEUFS lux AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on bread fried fried in butter butter on both sides, or on puffpastry croustades. puff Mask Mask with Anchovy Anchovy Sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a desalted desalted anchovy fillet. Anchovy Anchovy eggs eggs tr Il (mr (sur le plat). plat). orurs OEUFS Ar.x AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Desalt Desalt and and dice I1 anchovy per per egg. Put PUI them Ihem into into a buttered buUered ovenovenproof dish and break break the eggs onto onlO them. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and decorate decorate with with more more anchovy fillets. fillels. Anchory Al1chovy eggs eggs Itr m (frid). (fried). oEr.rFs OEUFS Arrx AUX ANcHorsANCHOIS - Fry Fry the the eggs eggs in oil. Arrange Arrange each each one one on an oval piece piece of of bread, bread, fried in butter butter on on both both sides. sides. Garnish Garnish with with anchovy ancbovy fillets, tillets, arranged criss-cross. criss-cross. Sprinkle with with Norette Noiselle butter buller (see (see BUTTER,

I

Compound Compound butters). bUllers).

Eggs Eggs ià l'ancienne l'ancienne I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). oBurs OEUFS A A Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on 00 a a mound mound of of rice, ri ce, - Arrange cooked cooked in in meat meat stock. stock. Cover Coyer with with Veloute Veloute saucd saucé (see (see SAUCE). julienne (q.v.) of of truffiesblended truffles blended SA U CE). Put Put Il teaspoonof teaspoon ofjulimre with with thick thick Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) between the the eggs. Eggs Eggs ià I'ancienne l'ancienne tr n (cold). (cold). oEr-rFs OEUFS A r'.lNcreNxs L'ANCIENNE- Mask soft-boiled soft-hoiled eggs eggs or or poached poached eggs cggs with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which Madeira Madeira has has been becn added. added. sauce (see Decorate Decorate with wilh truffies truffles and and glaze glaze with with jelly. jelly. Serve Serve in in aa dish dish lined lined with with aa layer layer of of chicken chîcken jelly. jelly. Separate Separate the the eggs eggs with with slices slices of of pickled pickled tongue tongue cut eut into into flutd fluted half-circles. half-circles. Cover Cover with with thin thin jelly. jelly. Add Add chopped chopped jelly jeUy

L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE -

338 338

EGGS EGGS to to the the middle middle of ofthe the dish. dish. Keep Keep cold cold until until serving' serving. Eggp ià l'andalouse le plat). plat). onurs OEUFS AÀ t'itNpAtousn L'ANDALOUSEl'andalouse I1(srr le the eggs eggs rrr sur lele plat in in oil oil in in aa dish dish which which has has been been Cook the rubbed rubbed with with garlic. garlic. Peel and and dice dice sweet sweet peppers peppers and and cook cook them in in oil. oil. Add Add them them to to Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE) FONDUE) them and garnish the the eggs eggs with with the the mixture. mixture. and l'andalouse tr II (frid). (fTied). oEUFs OEUFS AÀ t'lNoAl-ousn L'ANDALOUSE -- Fry Fry Eggs nà I'andalouse the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange alternately alternately with with grilled grilled tomatotomatothe halves in in the the shape shape of of aa crown. crown. halves Garnish with with sweet sweet peppers peppers and and onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Garnish l'anglaise I1(srr (sur lele plat). orurs OEUFS AÀ t'enctusr L'ANGLAISE -- Break Break Eggs ià I'anglaise Eggs eggs over over aa slice slice of of grilled bacon bacon in in aa buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof 22 eggs dish. Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. dish. tr (fried). oEUFs l''''·· ... I<·;-ll OEUFS A À L'lt'tcLllsn L'ANGLAISE -- Fry Fry the the Eggs il l'anglaise eggs butter. Cut them them with aa round round biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, leaving leaving eggsin white round onlya thin rim rim of ofwrute round the the yolk. yolk. Arrange Arrange on on rounds rounds a thin only of bread, bread, toasted, toasted, or or fried fried in in butter. butter. of Surround with with veal veal stock, or or serve serve the the stock stock separately' separately. Surround Eggs ià I'antiboise. l'antiboise. oEUFs OEUFS A À L'.qsrlnotsn L'ANTIBOISE -- Roll Roll 4 4 tableEggs in flour, ftour, and and saut6 sauté in in butter. butter. spoons (* cup) nonats (q.v.) in are brown, brown, add I1 tablespoon tablespoon diced diced Gruydre Gruyère When they are

Mask the ARGENTEUIL Argenteuil Argenteuil eggs eggs IV IV (cold). (cold). oEUFs OEUFS ARGENTEUIL -- Mask the sauce (see soft-doiled soft-boiled or or poached poached eggs eggs with with a a Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce (see tips and glaze SAUCE). SAUCE). Decbrate Decorate with with green green asparagus asparagus tips and glaze jelly. with aspic with with Make atips seasoned seasoned with a salad of of white white asparagus tips on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise (see (see SAUCE). Arrange on a dish with jellied Mayonnaise and eggs eggs and chopped chopped aspic aspic in in the the middle. middle. -Armenonville poached)' oEUFs, OEUFS Armenonville eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or on oval pieces of eggs cooked the Arrange ARMENoNvILLc of ARMENONVILLE -the cooked Mask with toast toast made made from from unsweetened unsweetened brioche dough.

added' Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which sherry sherry has been asparagus Garnish Garnish with with small small carrots carrots cooked cooked in in cream, cream, and and asparagus tips saut6ed sautéed with with butter. butter. poached). oEUFs AUBER Stuff Auber eggs eggs I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or "--'--'--r OEUFS AUBER -- Stuff FORCEwith Chicken forcemeal (see halved halved tomatoes tomatoes with (see FORCE1 cooked egg on Put truffies. chopped with mixed MEAT) MEA T) mixed with chopped Put 1 cooked egg on each each half. half. flavoured (se SAUCE) flavoured sauce Velouti with eggs Mask Mask the the eggs with Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) of truffies truffies with aa iulienne with with tomato tomato paste paste and and finished finished with julienne of sherry. in cooked cooked in sherry. eggs with a the eggs Mask the AUBER -- Mask (cold). OEUFS onurs AUBER Auber Auber eggs eggs tr II (cold). with a Tomato which Tomato (see SAUCE) to which SAUCE) ta sauce (see White chaud-froid White chaudlroid sauce with Decorate added' (see ESSENCE) been added. Decorate with ESSENCE) has essence has been essence (see jellY. glaze with with jelly. and glaze truffies truffies and of breast of diced breast with diced fill with and fill tomatoes and some tomatoes out sorne Hollow out Hollow with made with mayonnaise made with mayonnaise bound with trufres bound and truffies chicken and chicken tomato' each tomato. egg on on each or poached egg soft-boiled or gelatine. Put Put 1I soft-boiled gelatine. jelly. with jelly, and garnish with crown, and in aa crown, Arrange in Arrange AUBERAlrx AUBERplat). OEUFS oEUFS AUX le plat). aubergines I (2r le with aubergines Eggs with Eggs aubergines diced aubergines with diced dish with ovenproof dish the ovenproof Line the cINns -- Line GINES and the aubergines, aubergines' and onto the eggs onto the eggs Break the butter. Break in butter. saut6ed in sautéed plat. le plat. sar le for eggs sur way for usual way in the the usual cook in cook AUx AUBERGINES AUBERGINES oEUFs AUX tr (frid). OEUFS with aubergines II Eggs with in oil. Arrange thern in a ring alternating.with eggs in Fryihe eggs Fry with and fried in oil, or grilled' lengthwise and cut lengthwise of aubergine, au-bergine, eut sliies of slices fried parsleY. with fried Garnish with Garnish poached)' (soft-boiled or or poached). sicilienne (soft-boiled la sicilienne with aubergines I la Eggs with Eggs aubergines the aubergines cut the A LA LA SICILIENNE SICILIENNE -- Cut AUBERGINES À Ar-Ix AUBERGINES oEUFS AUX OEUFS leave to to and leave pulp. Salt them and Salt them the pulp. Score the half in ha in If lengthwise. Score oil. in ail. Fry in for I hour. Fry sweat for sweat the dry the and dry skins and the skins tearing the pulp without without tearing the pulp Remove the Remove Mornay of Mornay volume of its volume twice its with twice Mix itit with stove. Mix pulp on on the the stave. pulp the aubergines aubergineswith of the bottoms of the bottoms (seeSAUCE). Coat Coat the iauie (see sauce with half' each half. poached egg to toeach pur6e. Add Add 1I poached of this purée. tablespoon of 1I tablespoon the eggs eggs gratin dish cover the dish and cover buttered gratin in aa buttered thern in Arrange them Arrange been hasbeen cream bas fresh cream which fresh with the the remaining pur6e, toto which with oven. hot oven. Brown ininaahot cheese. Brown Sprinkle with grated cheese. added.Sprinkle added. buttered Lineaabuttered AUGIER - - Line orurs AUGIER eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS Augiei eggs chervil. and chopped chervil. distr wittr aa pur6e made of sweetbreads and dish with aa the yolkswith Surround the the pur6e. Surround onto the the eggs eggs onto Break the Break oven. theoven. Bake inthe cream.Bake fresh cream. ringof offresh ring t'luRonr - poached).OEUFS oEUFsÀAL'AURORE (soft-boiledor orpoached). eggs1I(soft-boiled Aurora eggs Aurora butter friedininbutter piecesof breadfried ofbread onpieces eggson cooked eggs thecooked Arrange the Arrange with Maskthem them with pastrycruustades. puff pastry croustades.Mask onpuff oron sides,or bothsides, onboth on hardwithchopped chopped hardSprinklewith SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (seeSAUCE). Aurora sauce Aurora (seo SAUCE)' sauce(see Tomatosauce withTomato Surroundwith egg yolks.Surround boiledegg boiled SAUCE). t'AURonE otrnÀAL'A onursDUR (strfre{ hard-boiled). OEUFS eggsIItr(stuffed, Auroraeggs Aurora URORE the Removethe eggs lengthwise. Remove hard-boiledeggs thehard-boiled Cutthe FARcIs - - Cut FARCIS weightofof yolks withananequal equalweight theyolks thirdsofofthe yolks.Mix Mix two twothirds yolks. and Seasonand butter.Season (seeSAUCE) andbutter. SAUCE)and sauce(see nethomel sauce ihick Béchamel thick heaping mixture, heaping thismixture, withthis eggswith theeggs Stuffthe herbs.Stuff chopped herbs. addchopped add dome. intoaadome. ititinto the eggs on a gratin dish masked with Mornay Arrangethe Arrange (sie SAUCE). Sprinkle them with grated cheese and sauce(see sauce from Removefrom oven.Remove hotoven. pouron butter. Browninina ahot meltedbutter. onmelted pour hard-boiled choppedhard-boiled remainingchopped theremaining withthe sprinklewith ouett,sprinkle th"aven, the (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Tomatosauce withTomato yolks, iurroundwith andsurround yolks, - and oEUFsÀA poached).OEUFS (soft-boiledororpoached). I'auvergnate (soft-boiled Eggsà i l'auvergnate Eggs

cheese and a little garlic. cheese Break 4 eggs eggs into ioto the same same pan and cook them them in the oven. Break

with chopped dish' Sprinkle with Turn upside down onto a hot dish. parsley. parsley.

I

oruns À A or poached). Eggs n à I'anversoise l'anversoise 1 (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs fried in in on bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the cooked L'ANVERSOISE - Serve Serve the L'Al.rvERsoIsE

-

cooked in in shoots cooked hop shoots with hop butter on both sides. Garnish with sides. Garnish on both butter (see sauce (see Suprdme sauce or Suprême sauce or Cream butter. Mask Mask with am sauce with Cre butter. SAUCE). sAUCE). A L'ANVERSOISE L'^lNvnnsotsn -ptat). OEUFS oEUFs À Eggs ài l'anversoise tr (sur le plat). I'anversoise II shoots hop shoots tablespoon hop with 1I tablespoon eggs with Garnish the cooked cooked eggs Garnish the of border of with aa border Surround with cooked cream. Surround or cream. in butter butter or cooked in boiling cream. APIcrus -poached). OEUFS oELrFs APICIUS (soft-boiled or or poached). eggs (soft-boiled Apicius eggs with grilled mushrooms. Garnish with mushrooms. Garnish Serve on grilled cooked eggs on the cooked Serve the (see CRAYFISH). Mask Mask Nantua (see Crayfish la Nantua ragoftt àit la tail ragoût Crayfish tail (see SAUCE). Put I tabletablethe sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande the eggs eggs with spoon truffies cooked in butter, made from from truffles salpicora, made of aa salpicon, spoon of between each each egg. egg. ARcHIDUc poached). OEUFS oEUFs ARCHIDUC (soft-boiled or or poached). Archduke eggp 1I (soft-boiled Archituke eggs on both both in butter butter on fried in -- Arrange on bread bread fried eggs on cooked eggs the cooked Arrange the with Suprême SuprAme Coat with sides, of puff pastry. Coat or on on croustades croustades of sides, or onion chopped onion and chopped (see SAUCE) sauce to which paprika and SAUCE) to sauce (see diced with diced Garnish with cooked been added. Garnish have been in butter butter have cooked in truffies in butter. butter. saut6od in truffies sautéed the Break the (sur le ARcHIDUc -- Break Archduke le plat). OEUFS onurs ARCHIDUC tr (sur eggs II ArcHuke eggs which onions which with chopped onions eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with with paprika' and seasoned Wit:l in butter butter and hive been been softened in in truffies cooked in diced truffies Cook with diced and garnish with in the the oven oven and Cook in (seeSAUCE) seasoned SAUCE) seasoned butter. sauce (see with Supr4me sauce butter. Surround Surround with with paprika. with paprika. ARGENoEUFs ARGENpoachcl).OEUFS Argenteuil (soft-boiled or or poached). eg5 1I (soft-boiled Argentanil eggs friedinin piecesof bread fried TEUIL of bread eggs on on pieces cooked eggs thecooked Arrange the reulf-- Arrange butter pastry croustades. puffpastry croustadesor on onpuff sides, or on both both sides, butter on (see PUREE), toto purie (see Mask asparagus purée Whiteasparagus with White Mask with the added inin the which (seeSAUCE) hasbeen been added SAUCE) has Velouti sauce sauce (see which Velouté tips asparagustips proportion white asparagus withwhite Garnish with proportion of of 33 toto l,l. Garnish cooked butter. cooked ininbutter. Break Argenteuil ARGENTEUIL - -Break (srrleleplat). plat). OEUFS onursARGENTEUIL eggF IItr(sur Argentanil eggs tablespoon the with 1I tablespoon dishwith ovenproof dish butteredovenproof intoaabuttered the eggs eggsinto asparagus fresh whiteasparagus with white Garnishwith oven.Garnish theoven. Cookininthe freshcream. cream. Cook tips butter. cookedininbutter. tipscooked Irine Argenteuil (srrleleplat). ptat).OEUFS ARGENTEUIL - - Line orurs ARGENTEUIL Itr(sur eggsID Argenteuil eggs (seePURÉE). purte(see PUREE). an Whiteasparagus asparagus purée withWhite dishwith anovenproof ovlnproof dish Break oven. theoven. Cook ininthe intoil.it.Cook the eggsinto Breakthe butter. cooked ininbutter. tipscooked Garnish with green asparagus tips (seSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Surround with Velouti sauce ot Cream sauce 339 339

EGGS

EGGS

L'AUvERGNATT - Cook some cabbage iri meat stock. Strain, Cook sorne cabbage in meat stock. Strain, and saut6 in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the and sauté in butter or lard. Arrange the cooked eggs on the cab_bage, alternating with rounds of sausage, fried in butter. cabbage, alternating with rounds of sausage, fried in butter. Cover with concentrated veal stock to which butter has Cover with concentrated veal stock to which butter has been added. been added. Babinski eggs (sur le plat). oEUFs BABrNsrr Garnish the Babinski eggs (sur le plat). OEUFS BABINSKI - - Garnish the co_okod eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and I cooked eggs with cork-shaped chicken croquettes and 1 tablespoon morels in cream. Surround with concentrat'ed tablespoon in cream. Surround with concentrated veal stock, morels to which butter has been added. veaJBachaumont stock, to which butter has been added. eg5 (en cocotte). oEr.rFs BAcHAUMoNT _ Bachaumont eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS BACHAUMONT Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac pur6e. Break Butter the cocottes and line them with celeriac purée. Break the eggs onto the puree and cook in the oven in-a bain-marie the eggs onto the purée and cook in the oven in a bain-marie (q.v.). (q.v.). Remove from the oven, season, and surround with Cream Remove from the oven, season, and surround with Cream sauce (see SAUCE), mixed with chopped chervil. (see SAUCE), mixed with chopped chervil. sauce Eggs and bacon I (srr le plat). orurs AU BAcoN Break the Eggs and bacon 1 (sur le plat). OEUFS AU BACON - - Break the eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of bacon eggs into an ovenproof dish lined with thin strips of bacon which have been lightly browned in butter. pbur the fat which have been lightly browned in butter. Pour the fat from the bacon over them and bake in the oven. from the bacon over them and bake in the oven. Eggs and bacon tr (ftied). oEUFS AU BAcoN Fry the eggs (fried). OEUFS AU BACON -- Fry the eggs and bacon inEggs oil. Arrange in a ring, alternating with rashers-of bac6i, Arrange in a ring, alternating with rashers of bacon, in oil. grilled or friod in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. grilled or fried in oil. Garnish with fried parsley. Bagration eggs I (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs BAcRArroN Bagration eggs 1 (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS BAGRATION Serve the cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish -- Serve the cooked eggs in a flan case baked blind. Garnish with diced macaroni cooked in water, bound with crea cream. with diced macaroni cooked in water, bound with m, and mixed with diced trufles. Mask with Cream sauce (see and mixed with diced truffies. Mask with Cream sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). L'AUVERGNATE -

n

Bagration eggs

Bagration eggs

Bagration erygs II (in moulds). oEUFs BAcRArroN _ Line a Bagration eggs II (in moulds). OEUFS BAGRATION - Line a buttered dariole mould with buttered dariole mould with macaroni macaroni which which has has been been cooked in water. Arrange the macaroni in a spiral. Spread cooked in water. Arrange the macaroni in a spiral. Spread Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) on the macaroni and break in the eggs. Cook in and break in the eggs. Cook in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Unmould onto small round croustades Unmould onto smalt round croustades and and mask mask with with Crearn sauce (ser', SAUCE). Add to each egg a round slice of Cream sauce (see SAUCE). Add to each egg a round slice of truffie cooked in butter. truffie cooked in butter. Balmoraf eg5 (en cocotte). oEUFs BALMoRAL Line cocotte Balmoral eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS BALMORAL-- Line cocotte dishes with a layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the dishes with a layer of vegetable mirepoix (q.v.). Break the eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in the oven in a bain-marie. eggs onto the mirepoix and bake in the oven in a bain-marie. Remove from the oven, season, and garnish with I Remove from the oven, season, and garnish with 1 tablespoon diced mushrooms frid in butter and blended tablespoon diced mushrooms fried in butter and blended with concentrated veal stock. with concentrated veal stock. eggs (fried). oEUFs BAMBocHE .Bamboche Bamboche eggs (fried). OEUFS BAMBOCHE-- Fry Frythe the eggs eggs in in oil, and arrange in a circle onamacidoine (q.v.) of uegel;bte. oil, and arrange in a circle on a macédoine (q. v.) of vegetables blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips of fied salt blended with cream. Garnish with thin strips of fried salt cod, as described for Salt cod d la bamboihe (see COD. cod, as described for Salt cod à la bamboche (see COD, Salt cod). Salt cod). Brnville eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs BANvTLLE _ Banville eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS BANVILLE Cook artichoke hearts in court-bouillon (q.v.) and saut6 Cook artichoke hearts in court-bouillon (q.v.) and sauté them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooke-d eggs on the them lightly in butter. Arrange the cooked eggs on the artichoke hearts and mask them with Chivry-iauce (see artichoke hearts and mask them with Chivry sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish with thickened Chicken fircemeat d h SAUCE). Garnish with thickened Chicken forcemeat à la (see FORCEMEAT). uime crème (see FORCEMEA T). 340 340

ESgsà tlalabéarnaise (soft-boiledororpoached). b6arnaise(soft-boiled poached).OEUFS orursÀALAu Eggs Makesmall smalloval ovalcakes cakesusing usingDuchess Duchesspotato potato - Make (seePOT mixture(see POTATOES). Bakeininthe theoven ovenuntil golden untilgolden A TOES). Bake mixture brownand andarrange arrange1Icooked cookedegg eggon oneach eachone. one.Coat Coaithem them brown withconcentrated concentratedveal gravytotowhich vealgravy whichbutter butterhas hasbeen been with added.Serve Servewith withBéarnaise Biarnaisesauce (seeSA sauce(see SAUCE). added. UCE). Eggsà i lalaBeauharnais Beauhamais (soft-boiled (soft-boiledororpoached). poached).OEUFS onwsÀALA u Eggs BEAUHARNATS - -Cook Cookartichoke artichoke hearts heartsininbutter butterand garnish andgarnish BEAUHARNAIS withBeauharnais Beauharnaissauce (seeSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Arrange Arrange 1Iegg eggon oneach. each. with Coat with with reduced reducedDemi-glace Demi-glace(see (seeSAUCE), SAUCE),-io which Coat to which butterhas has been beenadded. added. butter Eggs ài lalaBeaumont Beaumont (poached). (poached).OEUFS oEUFsÀALA r,c,BEAUMONT snA,r.rMoNrFor Eggs - For l0 eggs eggs use use_10 l0oval ovalcroustades croustadesmade made from fromleft left-over puff 10 -over puff j pastry, (scantpint, and litre litre (scant pint,2tcups) thin Béchamel Bichamel sauce siuce pastry, and cups) thin (seeSA SAUCE). (see UCE). 'Cook and and trim trim 33 large large artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Cut Cut them them into into 'Cook small squares squares and and stew stew them gently ininbutter. them gently butter. Sieve Sieve one one third third small of the the stewed stewed artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Mix Mix the pur6ewith the purée with the the of Bichamel sauce. sauce. Add Add 50 (2 oz., 50g.E.(2 oz., i* cup) butter. burter. Béchamel "up) tips (6 oz.) Cook 175 175 g.g. (6 green asparagus oz.) green asparagus tips inin salt salt water. water. Cook (In order order to have the to have the correct correct weight weight of ofasparagus tips, 400 400 g.g. (In asparagus tips, (14 oz.) asparagus asparagus will will be be required.) required.) Drain, Drain, but butdo do not not rinse rinse (14 oz.) in cold cold water. water. Season Season with with salt, pepper and salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. in Dress with with butter. butter. Mix Mix in in the the rest rest of of the the artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. Dress 'Poach the the eggs eggs which which should should be be absolutely absolutely fresh. fresh. Drain Drain 'Poach them and and plunge plunge into into lukewarm lukewarm water. water. Then Then drain drain again again and and them dry on on aa c1oth. cloth. Trim Trim the the eggs eggs and and arrange arrange them them in in aa circle lrcle on on dry individual croustades. croustades. Cover Cover them them with with the the sauce sauce and put and put individual some chervil chervil on on each each egg. egg. Garnish Garnish with with the the artichokes artichokes and and sorne asparagus tips tips arranged arranged in in the the centre centre of of the (phil6as the circle.' circle.' (Philéas asparagus Gilbert.) Gilbert.) EgS ài la la béchamel. bechamel. OEUFS oEUFs À A LA m BÉCHAMEL nfcnllarr -- See See Eggs with Eggs (below). cream sauce sauce (below). cream BelleH6line eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs BELLEBELLE_ Belle-Hélène u6riilrr -- Make Make oval oval croquettes croquettes from frornleft-over HÉLÈNE left-over poultry meat. Dip put 1I in egg egg and and breadtrumbs breadOrumbs and and fry in butter. buttei. Put Dip them them in fry in soft_-boiled egg on on each. each. Mask Mask the the eggs or poached poached egg soft-boiled or eggs with Colbert butters). Garnish Colbert butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, compound compound butters). Garnish with of Velouté Velouti sauce with asparagus asparagus tips. tips. Surround Surround with aa ring of (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs ià la la bellevilloise bellevilloise (sur (sur le le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À rn LA ssnrBELLEvLLorsE VILLOISE - Line Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish with with chopped chopped onion onion softened softened in in butter. butter. Put Put the the eggs on the onions and garnish garnish with with 2 2 slices slices of of grilled grilled andouillette andouillette (q.u.). (q.v.). Bake Bake thJm them and and when when cooked cooked surround surround the the eggs eggs with with a ribbon ribbon of of Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Eggs nà h la b6n6dictine bénédictine (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). orurs OEUFS A À re LA sfN6orcrrNE BÉNÉDICTINE -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on a a mixture mixture of of salt salt cod cod pounded pounded with with garlic, garlic, oil, oil, and and cream, cream, and and mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufles. truffies. Mask Mask with with Cream Cream sauce sauce (ser, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). B6ranger Béranger eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS s6RlNcm BÉRANGER _Line Line aa flan flan case, case, b_aked baked blind, blind, with with aa layer layer of of thick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). PURÉE). Put Put the the cooked cooked Lggs eggs oo on this this layer layer soubise (see and and mask mask them them with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese over over the the pie pie and and pour pour melted melted buttei butter over. over. Brown Brown in in the the oven. oven. Bdrangire Bérangère eggs eggs (en (en cocotte). cocotte). oEUFs OEUFS sfnlNciRE BÉRANGÈRE -- Line Line buttered buttered cocottes cocottes with with aa thin thin layer layer of offorcemeat forcemeat made made from from poultry poultry and and truffes. truffies. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the cocottes cocottes and and cook cook in in the the usual usual way. way. When When the the eggs eggs are are cooked, cooked, garnish garnish with with I1tablespoon tablespoon of ofragofit ragoût made made from from cocks, cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys,blended blended with with Supr€me Suprêmesauce sauce(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bu-*y Bercyeggs eggs(*rr (surleleplat). plat).oEUFs OEUFSBERCv BERCY-- Bake Bakethe theeggs eggsininthe the usual usuaJ way. way. Garnish Garnish with with aa small small grilled grilled or or fried fried Jausage. sausage. Surround Surround with with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce(see (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Berlioz Berlioz eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS BERLroz BERLIOZ _Brown Brown in in the the oven oven oval oval croustades, croustades, made made from from Duchess Duchess potato mixture(see (seePOTATOES). POT A TOES).Fill Fillthe thecroustades croustadeswith withaa potatomixture

sfARNlrsEBÉARNAISE

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EGGS EGGS salpicon of of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended with with a a thick thick salpicon Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on the the garnished garnished croustades. croustades. Mask Mask the the eggs eggs lightly lightly with Supr4me Suprême sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill the the middle middle of the the dish dish with cocks' cocks' combs combs fried fried d à la Fill Villeroi. Villeroi. Bernis eggs eggs I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS BERNIsBERNIS - Make Make Bernis round croustades,with croustades, with aa small small rim, rim, from from puffpastry. puffpastry. Garnish Garnish round them with a layer layer of chicken chicken pur6e. purée. Arrange the cooked them eggs in in the the croustades. croustades. eggs Mask the the eggs eggs with Supr4me Suprême sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Garnish Garnish Mask with green green asparagus asparagus tips tips blended with butter. butter. with Bernis eggs eggs tr n (cold). (cold). oEUFs OEUFS BERNIs BERNIS - Mask Mask poached poached eggs in Bernis White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with White truffles and glaze with jelly. jelly. truffies mousse (see of Chickm Chicken mousse Line a a dish dish with with a a layer layer of Line Arrange the eggs on the mousse, leaving space CHICKEN). Arrange between each each egg for for a bunch ofgreen of green asparagus tips. Spoon between half-set jelly over the whole whole dish. Serve very cold. half-set eggs in convenient to to serve the the eggs in individual If it is more convenient dishes, small small cassa cassolettes dishes made made from from metal, or shell shell dishes lettes or dishes, be used. used. crystal or china, can be moulds). OEUFS Bizet eggs eggs (in (in moulds). Brzur -- Butter individual oEUFs BIZET chopped pickled tongue and line with finely chopped dariole moulds and poach them them truffles. Break the eggs into the mou Ids and poach moulds and trufres. in a bain-marie. eggs and and the eggs Cook artichoke artichoke hearts hearts in in butter. Unmould the put I1 on on each artichoke Pirigueux sauce Mask with with Périgueux heart. Mask put artichoke heart. (see SAUCE). Put aa slice of truffle on each each egg. truffie on A LA LA (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs À bohémienne (soft-boiJed Eggs ài la boh6mienne garnish BOHÉMIENNE pastry and puffpastry and garnish nonftr,rrcNNE-- Make croustades from puff them foie gras. gras. Put on the the eggs on the cooked cooked eggs puree of /oie Put the with purée them with (se SAUCE). purée. Cut SAUCE). Cut Veloutd sauce sauce (see with Velouté pur6e. Cover Cover them them with lean in Madeira. Madeira. Put heat them them in and heat ham into into matchsticks and lean harn the veal light veal ring of of light surround with aa ring and surround eggs and the eggs the ham on on the jelly. ALET -Bonvalet BoNVALET poached). OEUFS (soft-boiled or oEuFs BONV or poached). Bonvalet eggs eggs (soft-boiJed and Hollow in butter, butter, and them in brown them of bread, bread, brown rounds of out rounds Hollow out place the in the hollows. cooked eggs eggs in the cooked (see SAUCE) with Mask with surround with and surround SAUCE) and sauce (see Velouti sauce with Velouté (see aa ribbon sauce (see Biarnaise sauce tomato-flavoured Béarnaise thick tomato-flavoured ribbon of of thick SAUCE) piped slice of of paper forcing-bag. Put 1I slice piped through forcing-bag. Put through aa paper truffle, egg. on each each egg. heated in in butter, butter, on trufre, heated Eggs (srr le rl BORDELAISEsonnsr.a'Isp plat). OEUFS oEurs ÀA LA le plat). la bordelaise 1I (sur Eggs ài la Break Ia bordelaise bordelaise of chopped Cipes àd la chopped Cèpes onto aa bed bed of Break the the eggs eggs onto (see (see MUSHROOMS) cook as as usual. usual. and cook MUSHROOMS) and Eggs (fried). OEUFS sonoELAIsE -r,l, BORDELAISE tr (fried). oEUFs ÀA LA la bordelaise bordelaise n Eggs ài la Fry on eggs on Arrange the the eggs in oil. oil. Arrange oval croûtons cro0tons in eggs and and oval Fry the the eggs .drth Cèpes (see the la bordelaise bordelar'se (see Cdpes àd la garnish with crofitons, and and garnish the croûtons, MUSHROOMS). Eggs garnishes). OEUFS EN oEUFS EN (with various various garnishes). border 1I (with as aa border Eggs as quarters, BORDURE into quarters, them into and cut cut them the eggs eggs and Hard-boil the BoRDURE -- Hard-boil thick halves. rounds, or or halves. thick rounds, yolks Butter the yolks eggs with with the the eggs plain ring Arrange the mould. Arrange ring mould. Butter aa plain facing with forcing-bag, with using aa forcing-bag, mould, using the mould, Fill the outward. Fill facing outward. forcemeat forcethe forcePress the vegetables. Press fish or or vegetables. meat, fish made of of meat, forcemeat made meat lid and and cook cook with aa lid spaces. Cover Cover with empty spaces. avoid ernpty meat down down to to avoid in oven. in aa low low oven. in aa bain-marie bain-marie in Turn all ingredients ail that the the ingredients dish so so that onto aa dish mould out out onto Turn the the mould come soon. too soon. remove itit too not remove Do not together. Do come out out together. Fill or sautéed saut6ed garnish such creamed or such as ascreamed with aa garnish Fill the the middle middle with mushrooms; tips or or asparagus tips of vegetables; vegetables; asparagus macidoine of mushrooms; aa macédoine other leavesor or spinach leaves cream; spinach orcream; green vegetables in butter butteror vegetables in other green spinach etc. pur6e; sautéed aubergines; etc. saut6ed aubergines; spinach purée; Spoon (s* SAUCE) the border. border. over the SAUCE) over sauce (see Spoon Cream Crearn sauce Eggs hard-boiled Cut hard-boiled EN BORDURE BoRDURE - - Cut II. OEUFS onurs EN as aa border border II. Eggs as eggs the arrange the caseand and arrange Bake aa flan flancase slices. Bake round slices. into thick thick round eggsinto eggs with them with alternating them flan, alternating of the the flan, round the the edges edges of eggs round

Eggs as border 10 to spinach spinach as aa border Eggs

saut6ed pickled tongue; calves' brains sautéed calves' brains ham; pickled round slices slices of ham; round (zucchini) sautéed sautEed in in or courgettes courgettes (zucchini) in butter; butter; aubergines aubergines or in goes weil hard-boiled garnish that well with with hard-boiled that goes any garnish with any butter; or with butter; eggs. garnishes of the the garnishes with one one of flan with of the the flan middle of Fill the the middle Fill with Cream Cream the eggs eggs with recipe. Cover Cover the in the the previous recipe. described in (see SAUCE) sauce. suitable sauce. any other other suitable or any SAUCE) or sauce (see hardBoRDURE -- Cut (cold). OEUFS Cut hardEN BORDURE oEUFs EN Itr (cold). border m Eggs as as aa border Eggs Put them them rounds. Put quarters or thick rounds. or thick halves, into ha eggs into boiled eggs boiled Ives, quarters jelly, and with and decorate decorate with white jelly, lined with with white moulds lined ring rnoulds into ring into suitable or any any suitable ham, or pickled tongue, lean harn, pieces of tongue, lean of truffle, truffie, pickled pieces jelly. Leave on ice. ice. to set set on Leave to garnish. Fill Fill with with half-set jelly. garnish. (cold). OEUFS Line aa BoRDURE -- Line EN BORDURE oEUFS EN IV (cold). Eggs as as aa border border IV Eggs jelly. Decorate the whites whites of of with the plain ring Decorate with mould with with jelly. ring mould plain etc. truffies, etc. eggs, truffles, hard-boiled eggs, stuffing made made from from ring with with stuffing fill the the ring forcing-bag to to fill Use aa forcing-bag puree of with purée of foie yolks of eggs sieved sieved with hard-boiled eggs of the the hard-boiled the yolks the foie half-set proportion of Fill the the rnould mould with with half-set gras, in to 1.l. Fill of 33 to in the the proportion gras, jelly. Leave refrigerator. Leave to to set set in in the the refrigerator. jelly. buttered croûton cro0ton dish. Put Put aa buttered out onto onto aa dish. Turn the the mould mould out Turn yolks from from the yolks Sieve together together the mould. Sieve the mould. in the the centre centre of of the in gras. Stuff Stuff the the whites whites and sorne somefoie eggs and hard-boiled eggs halved hard-boiled halved foie gras. pyramid on on the the in aa pyramid the eggs eggs in heap the and heap this mixture mixture and with this with jelly over them. spoon jelly over them. and spoon with truffles trufres and Decorate with cro0ton. Decorate croûton. jelly triangles. triangles. Garnish with with jelly Garnish eggs àd laIa also called called jellied are also In France France these these eggs eggs are In iellied eggs française. frangaise. (poached). OEUFS rl BOURsouRoEUFs ÀA LA la bourguignonne bourguignonne (poached). Eggs ài la Eggs pinch of pint,2l cups) of red wine, wine,aapinch cups) red dl. (1(1pint, Boil 66 dl. cuIGNoNNE -- Boil GUIGNONNE parsley,aa twig twigof handful of of parsley, of pinch of pepper, aasmall small handful of pepper, salt, salt, aa pinch garlic, of garlic, and aacrushed crushed clove cloveof leaf and fragment of of bay bay leaf thyme, aa fragment thyme, for few minutes. minutes. for aa few poach 66 fresh wine. in the thewine. fresheggs eggs in Strain, Strain, and and poach fried inin them on oncroûtons crofftons fried arrange them the eggs eggs and and arrange Drain Drain the (see sauce(see Bourguignonne sauce with Bourguignonne butter. Cover the the eggs eggs with butter. Cover red into the the red kneaded butter butter into SAUCE) made by by blending blending kneaded SAUCE) made cooked. theeggs eggs were were cooked. wine which the wine inin which made from from crofitons made eggs on on croûtons arrange the theeggs Alternatively, Alternatively, arrange with sautéed saut6ed Garnish with friedininbutter. butter. Garnish round round slices slices of of bread, bread, fried glazd onions. Bour' withBourCover with onions. Cover small glazed mushrooms mushrooms and and smaIJ (seeSAUCE). guignonne sauce guignonne SAUCE). sauce (see (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS rA, osuFsÀALA orpoached). Eggs bretonne 1I (soft-boiJed Eggs àt lala bretonne friedinin oncroûtons, cro0tons, fried cooked eggs eggs on BRETONNE Arrange the thecooked BREToNNE - - Arrange (seeSAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), butter. Bretonne sauce themwith with Bretonne Cover them butter. Cover outcroûtons, cro0tons, inhollowed hollowed out Alternatively, theeggs eggsin arrange the Alternatively, arrange (or inincroustades filledwith with andfilled ortartlets), tartlets),and fried croustades or frid inin butter butter (or gravytoto vealgravy white pur6e. Cover withconcentrated concentrated veal Coverwith white bean bean purée. which hasbeen beenadded. added. which butter butterhas (rrrleleplat). plat). OEUFS nnrror.nts - LlBRETONNE Eggs oEI;FsÀALA bretonne ntr(sur Eggsài lalabretonne theyare are Bake plat ininthe way.When Whenthey theusual usualway. surleleplat Bake the theeggs eggs sur

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EGGS EGGS cooked, surround surround them them with with aa ribbon ribbon of of Bretonne Bretonne sauce sauce cooked, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Alternatively, force force through through aa forcing-bag, forcing-bag, aa thick pur6e thick purée Alternatively, of white white beans beans along along the the edge edge of of aa bultered buttered dish. dish. Break Break the the of eggs into into the the dish dish and and fry fry them them in in the the usual usual way. way. eggs Brillat-Savarin eggs (soft-boiled or eEgs 1I (soft-boiled poached). OEUfS or poached). oEUFs Brillat-Savarin BRILLAT-sAvARrN -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind. blind. Garnish Garnish with with BRILLAT-SAVARIN morels sa saut6ed in buller. butter. Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushmushmorels utéed in rooms and (see and mask mask with with concentrated concentrated Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see rooms SAUCE) to which which sherry sherry and and butter butter have have been been added. added. Dress Dress SA UCE) to the centre centre of of the the dish dish with with buttered green asparagus buttered green asparagus tips. tips. the Brlllat-Savarin eggs (srr lele plat). plat). OEUFS eggs II II (sur oEr.JFs BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAvARIN Bake the plat in the eggs eggs sur sur lele plal in the the usual usual way. way. Garnish Garnish SA VAR IN -- Bake them with with morels morels sautéed saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and asparagus asparagus tips. tips. them Surround them them with with sherry-flavoured (see sherry-flavourd Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see Surround SAUCE). SAUCE). Brillat-Savarin eggs (en caissettes). eggs m Itr (en caissettes). OEUFS oEuFs BRILLATBRTLLATBrillat-Savarin SAVARIN -- Butter Butter small small ovenproof ovenproof china china dishes. dishes. Garnish Garnish SAVARIN them with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon sautéed saut6ed morels. morels. Break Break the the eggs eggs onto onto them them and and bake bake in in the the oYen oven in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. them Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips, tips, and and surround surround with with aa ribbon ribbon Garnish (see SA of Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE), flavoured with with sherry. sherry. of UCE), flavoured (soft-boiled or Brimont eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). BRrMoNr -oEUFS BRIMONT Brimont puffpastry Fill aa large large puff croustade with with mushrooms mushrooms cooked cookd in in FiJI pastry croustade cream. Pu! Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the mushrooms mushrooms and and mask mask cream. with thick thick veloule velouti sauce sauce made made from from chicken chicken stock stock with with with Madeira and and cream cream added. added. Garnish Garnish the the centre centre of of the the dish dish Madeira with small small round round chicken chicken croquettes. croquettes. Put Put aa slice slice of of truffle truffie on on with each egg. egg. each (soft-boiled or Eggs àla i la bruxeUoise bruxelloise 1I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). orurs À A LA rl Eggs BRUXELLoISE Arrange the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out on hollowed-out BRUXELLOISE -- Arrange the cooked (which have crofitons (which have been browned in in the oven) or or in in croûtons been browned the oven) (baked blind). tartlets (baked Garnish with chopped chicory chicory tartlets blind). Garnish with chopped (see cooked in in butter and bound with Bichamel sauce (see cooked butter and bound with Béchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat Coat with Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Eggs plat). OEUFS tr (srr le plat). oEnFs À A LA ra DRUXELsnlxnrEggs àt la la bruxelloise bruxelloise II (SIIf le LoIs -- Break eggs onto chicory in in LOISE Break the the eggs onto halved, halved, braised braised chicory ovenproofdishes and cook cook thern Surround ovenproof dishes and them in in the the usual usual way. way. Sur round them (see SAUCE). Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). them with with aa ribbon ribbon of of Cream (soft-boiled or Cardinal eggs IJ (soft-boiled Cardinal eggs or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL CARDINALGarnish tartlets Garnish tartlets (baked (baked blind) blind) with with spiny spiny lobster lobster blended blended (see with SAUCE). Put with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the SAUCE). the lobster lobstcr and and mask mask with with Cardinal Cardinal sauce sauce (see (sec SA UCE). Garnish Garnish each each egg egg with with a a slice sliee of of truffie. tmflle. Crrdinrl Cardinal eggs eggs II II (in (in moulds). moulds). oEUFs OEUFS cARDTNAL CARDINAL - Butter Butter dariole dariole moulds moulds and and sprinkle sprinkle them them with with lobster lobstcr coral. coral. Break Break the the eggs eggs in in the the moulds mou Ids and and cook cook them them in in a a bain-marie. bain-marie. EmpW Empty the the moulds moulds into into tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with with aa mixture mixture of of lobster and, Bdchamel lobster and Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask with with (see Cardinal sauce SAUCE). Cardinal sauce (see SA UCE). Heat Heat sliced sliced truffies trumes in in butter butter and and put put one one on Oll each each egg. egg. Car0me Carême eg5 eggs I1 (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS c.m€rvn CARÊME -Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on artichoke artichoke hearts hearts cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with a a ragofit ragoût of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trufres truffles and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Mask Mask with with thick truck Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), one one third third of of which which should should be be veal veal stock. stock, with with cream cream and and Madeira Madeira added. added. Cut Cut slices slices of or pickled pickled tongue tongue with with aa fluted fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter and and put put I1 slice slicc on on each ca ch egg. egg. Car6me Carême eggs eggs tr II (in (in moulds). moulds). oEUFs OEUFS c.lnftvre CARÊME -- Line Line small small hexagonal hexagonal moulds mou Ids with with pickled pickled tongue tongue and and diced diced truffies. trumes. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the moulds moulds and and steam steam them. them. Garnish. Garnish, and and mask mask with with sauce sauce as as in in the the recipe recipe above. above. Car€me Carême eggs eggs m III (cold). (cold). osuFs OEUFS cln€ME CARÊME -- Poach Poach the the eggs eggs and and trim triro them them so so that that little little of of the the white white remains. rernains. Line Line small small jelly hexagonal moulds hexagonal moulds with with jelly and and decorate decorate them them with with trufres truffles and and pickled pickled tongue lOngue cut cut into into small small pieces. pieees. Put Put the the eggs eggs into into

the moulds. moulds. Fil! jelly. Fill the the mou moulds with Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured jelly. the Ids with Chill on on iee. ice. Chili put each Unmould the the eggs eggs and and put each one one on on an an artichoke artichoke Unmould heart which which has has been cooked in been cooked in court-houillon court-bouillon and and masked masked heart jelly. with jelly. Arrange Arrange the the eggs eggs around around an an aspic aspic of of sweetbreads sweetbreads with and trumes truffies made made in in aa conical conical mould. mould. and Cook small small mushrooms mushrooms in in court-houillon. court-bouillon. Mask Mask them them with Cook with (see SA White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with with White UCE). Decorate lozenge-shaped pieees pieces of of trume. truffe. Put Put aa decorated decorated mushroom mushroom lozenge-shaped on each each egg. egg. on (soft-boiled or Egp ài lala carmélite carm6Hte (sofl-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). onurs ÀA LA r,c, Eggs clnufrnt -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind. blind. Garnish Garnish with with Musse/s Mussels in CARMÉLITE in (see MUSSEL). crecnn (see MUSSEL). Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the cream mussels; garnish garnish with (see SAUCE). with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE). mussels; (srr lele plat). Carmen eggs plat). OEUFS eggs (SIIr oEUFs CARMEN cARMEN -- Bake Bake the Carmm the eggs eggs plat in sur le le plat in the the usual usual way. way. Cut Cut them them with with aa round round biscuitsur biscuitcutter, Jeaving leaving only only aa narrow narrow ribbon ribbon of white round of white round the the cutter, yolk. Deep-fry Deep-fry croûtons cro0tons in in oil. oil. Cover Cover each each croûton cro0ton with yolk. with aa slice of of harn ham sautéed saut6od in in aa frying pan. pan. Put Put 1I egg egg on on each each slice slice slice of ham. ham. Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with (see SA with TomalO Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE), of UCE), seasoned with paprika and with paprika and with butter added. added. seasoned (soft-boiled or Carnavalet eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs CARNAcARNACarnavalet vALET - Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in aa circle circle on on Suhrics Subrics of VALET (see SPINACH). spinach (see SPINACH). Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish spinach dish with aa macédoine macidoine ofvegetables of vegetables bJended blended with with Béchamel Bichamel sauce with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mask Mask the the eggs eggs with (see with Cream Crean sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Eggs ài la la catalane catalane (fried). oEUFs À A lA r,l CATALANE c,lrlrlxr -- Fry Eggs halved and thinly thinly sliced sliced aubergines aubergines in oil. Use halved tomatoes and in oil. Use a pan for separate frying frying pan for each each vegetable. vegetable. When When they separate they are cooked, mi!< mix the vegetables together and and season season with with salt cooked, the vegetables and pepper. Add garlie garlic and chopped parsley and and pepper. Add and chopped and arrange arrange on aa dish. Cook the eggs eggs in and slide them on to Cook in aa frying pan pan and them on to the vegetables. Eggs ài la charcutibre 1I (fried). OEUFS oEUFs A ra CHARCUTIÈRE cH,c.Rcuntnn -la charcutière À LA Fry Fry the eggs in lard. Arrange Arrange them on a dish in the shape of a crown, (see crown, alternating alternating them with $illed grilled Pork Park cripinettes crépinettes (see CREPINETTES). Garnish Garnish with and serve CRÉPINETTES). with fried fried parsley parsley and serve with Charcutière Charcuti\re sauce (see with (see SAUCE). Eggs ià h la charcutibre charcutière tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boilOO or poached). orurs OEUFS IÀ I/, small Pork LA cHARcurdinn CHARCUTIÈRE - Arrange the cooked eggs on on small Park uipinettes crépinettes (see (see CREPINETTES) CRÉPINETTES) which hive have been frid fried or grilled. Charcutiire sauce grilled. Cover Coyer with with concentrated concentrated Charcutière sauce (see (sec sAUCE). SAUCE). Chartreuse eggs (in (in moulds). moolds). oEr.rFs OEUFS EN EN cHARTREusn CHARTREUSE - Cut carrots carrots and and turnips turnips into into tiny tiny balls. balls. Dice Dice French French beans. beans. Cook Cook these these vegetables, vegetables, and and green green peas, peas, separately in in salt water. water. Drain Drain the the vegetables, vegetables, toss toss them them in in melted meltcd butter, butter, and line line buttered buttered moulds moulds with with them. them. Break Break the the eggs eggs into into the the moulds moulds and cook cook in in a bain-marie. bain-marie. Make round round cro0tes, croûtes, hollow holJow thsm them out, out, and and bake bake until until golden. them with with well-drained well-drained braised braised cabbage. cabbage. golden. Fill Fill them Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs and and put put them them on on the the cabbage cabbage in the the cro0tes, croû tes, separating separating each egg egg from from the the next next with with a slice of of cooked cooked sausage. sausage. Mask Mask with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock stock to to which butter has has been been added. added. which butter Eggs Eggs au an chasseur chasseur I1 (srr (sur le le plat). plat). oEUTS OEUFS AU AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR Garnish Garnish cooked cooked eggs eggs with with sauteed sautéed chicken chicken livers. livers. Surround Surround with with aa ribbon ribbon of of Chasseur Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Finely Finely sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms can can be be added added to 10 the the chicken chicken livers. livers. Eggs Eggs au au chasseur chasseur II II (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or poached). poached). ouurs OEUFS nu AU cHAssEuR CHASSEUR - Bake Bake tartlets tartlets blind blind and and fill lill them them with with sautEed sautéed chicken chicken livers. livers. Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on the the livers livers and and cover coYer with with Chasseur Chasseur sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley.

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342 342

EGGS (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs Chateaubriand poached). OEUFS Chateaubriand eggs in butter. butter. Fill Fill hearts in Cook artichoke artichoke hearts - Cook (se, SA UCE). Arrange the eggs with thick Béarnaise Biarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). veal stock stock to hearts, and with concentrated veal on mask with on the the hearts, and mask which butter has been added. or poached). OEUFS orurs ÀA LA u Eggs ài la châtelaine chltelaine 1I (soft-boiled or with Chestnut tartlets blind. CHÂTELAINE cnArrrlrxn -- Bake Bake tartlets blind. Garnish Garnish with (see PUREE) purie quarter of its weight of with aa quarter its weight PURÉE) mild mixed with purée (see Onion soubise soubise (see PURÉE). PUREE). Arrange the eggs on the pur6e Onion purée Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). and and coyer cover with a poultry Velouté A LA I-l CHÂTELAINE csArrLArNE -Eggs àt la tr (cold). OEUFS oELrFs À Eggs la châtelaine ch0telaine D with Chaud-froid Mask the the soft-boiled soft-boiled or or poached eggs with Mask poached eggs (see SAUCE). pickled tongue with pickled tongue and sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with jelly. glaze with jelly. truffies, and truffies, and glaze Arrange the in aa dish dish lined with aa jellied lined with jellied chestnut the eggs eggs in mousse. Coyer half-set jelly. jelly. Cover with aa thin layer of half-set (mr le plat). OEUFS A LA m CHAVILLE cruvnrB-- Line Eggs ài la Chaville (sur oEurs À tablespoon salpicon ofmushrooms of mushrooms the ovenproofdish ovenproof dish with 1I tablespoon and cook cook in in butter. Break the the eggs eggs into the dish and cooked in with 1I tablespoon usual way. way. Garnish Garnish the the cooked eggs with the usual which chopped tarragon Tomato fondue fondue (see FONDUE) to which has been added. has poached). OEUFS cuENIrR -or poached). oEUFs CHÉNIER Chénier Ch6nier eggs eggs (soft-boiled or (see, PILAF) add saffron. saffron. Make and add Make it Make aa Rice pilaf (see PILAF) and put 1I egg and put egg on each. Garnish with sliced into small cakes and (see in oil. Mask with with Tomato Tomato sauce aubergines oil. Mask aubergines fried fried in sauce (see SAUCE). Eggs àt la or poached). OEUFS onurs A L,c. Eggs À LA la chevalière chevalibre (soft-boiled or cnevlrdRE - Bake a flan case blind. Arrange the eggs around CHEVALIÈREragodt the edge, and the flan the edge, the centre of the flan with aa ragoût and garnish the and mushrooms, blended blended made of cocks' combs, kidneys, and made (see SAUCE). with Velouté Velouti sauce SAUCE). Spoon Spoon Suprême with sauce (see SuprAme sauce (see SA in egg and SAUCE) the eggs. eggs. Dip cocks' combs combs in UCE) over (see over the breadcrumbs and and fry fry them. Put comb between between each each egg Put 1I comb and 1I slice of truffle truffie on each egg. and (srr le plat). OEUFS A LA I.l CHEVREUSE cnrvnEusn -Eggs àA la la Chevreuse (sur oEurs À pur6ed French layer of puréed French beans round the the edge beans round edge of a Pipe aa layer ovenproof dish. Break the eggs into the middle of buttered ovenproof and bake. the dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated cheese and (stuffed). A LA r.n CHIMAY cnnaay -- Cut Eggs ffed). OEUFS Egp ài la la Chimay Chimay (stu oEUFs À yolks and hard-boiled eggs lengthwise. Remove the yolks and pound hard-boiled (q.v.). Stuff them, adding an an equal quantity of dry duxelles (q.v.). the halved egg whites with this mixture. mixture. Arrange cover with Arrange the stuffed eggs in a buttered dish and coyer (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Mornay with grated cheese. sauce (see Sprinkle with Mornay sauce in the oyen and brown in oven or under a Pour meltod melted butter over and grill. (mr le plat). OEUFS AIrx CHIPOLATAScHIpoLArAs Eggs with chipolatas chipolatas (sur oEurs AUX Line an an ovenproof dish dish with with chopped onions onions softened softened in Line butter. Break the eggs onto the onions. Put aa grilled chipoyolk and pour melted lata sausage sausage on on either side and pour lata de of each either si each yolk in the butter over over the the dish. dish. Cook Cook in the oyen. oven. Surround Surround with butter concentrated veal stock. (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS Eggs ài la la Chivry Chivry (soft-boiled orurs ÀA LA r.n Eggs or poached). cHIvRy -- Arrange the cooked cooked eggs on fried fried croûtons. crofltons. CHIVRY Arrange the eggs on Garnish with green asparagus tips cooked in butter. Coyer Cover SAUCE). with Chivry sauce (see SAUCE). poached). OEUFS Choron eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached). oEUFs CHORON cHoRoN -Choron Make oval croûtons round the edge and Make cro0tons with a deep groove round butter. Put the cooked eggs on the croûtons cro0tons deep-fry them in butter. Tomato sauce saucehasbeen and mask with Cream sauce to which Tomato has been added (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE) sauce (see Pipe aa ribbon of thick thick Biarnaise Pipe ribbon of Béarnaise sauce groove round into the croûtons. with small cro0tons. Garnish Garnish with the groove round the into the green peas cooked in butter. poached). OEUFS or poached). oeurs À A rl Eggs LA Eggs à A la la Clamart (soft-boiled or cLAMART -- Bake Bake tartlets tartlets and and fill fill them them with with Peas CLAMART Peas àd la (see PEA). eggs on on the the peas française (see PEA). Arrange the cooked eggs frangaise

(se SAUCE) to which Green sauce (see and coyer cover with with Cream Crearn sauce peabutter butters) has been BUTTER, Compound been added. pea butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) Eggs À LA Eggs àn la h Clarence Chrence (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs A cLARENcE -- Bake tartlets and and fi,!l fill them with a julienne (q.v.) CLARENCE tongue, truffies, and and mushrooms. Arrange the of pickled pickled ton gue, truffles, cooked eggs in the the tartlets and coyer cover with with Rdforme cooked Réforme sauce tartlets and eggs in (see SAUCE) to which butter has been added.

CHATEAUBRIAND cHATEAUBRTAND -

eggs en cocotte Garnished eggs

E'N COCOTTE Eggs en en cocotte with cream. cocorrE A Eggs À LA cocotte with cream. OEUFS oEUFS EN Put 1I tablespoon boiling cream cream in the cocottes and and - Put of butter butter to the yolk. Bake in the break in the eggs. Add a nut of oyen oven in aa bain-marie. Eggs en en cocotte cocotte ài la la duxeIJes. duxelles. OEUFS oErrFs EN BN COCOTTE cocorrE A r,c, Eggs À LA DUxELLES -- Line buttered buttered cocotte cocotte dishes with with dry dry duxelles DUXELLES and bake in the oyen oven (q.v.). Break the eggs into the cocottes and rn aa bain-marie. Remove from from the the oyen oven and and surround surround the in yolks with concentrated veal gravy to which butter has been added. EgEs en cocotte oEUFs EN EN COCOTTE cocorrE AU A.u JUS rus -- Cook Eggs cocotte in gravy. OEUFS as for Eggs en en cocotte as cocotte with tarragon (see below) leaving out gravy until the tarragon and and reducing reducing the the veal veal gravy the tarragon is very until itit is concentrated. concen tra ted. naturel - Cook as described cocotte au natureldescribed under Eggs Eggs en cocotte en cocotte (see EGGS, Basic egg dishes). dishes). en EN COCOTTE Parmesan cheese. OEUFS oEUFs EN cocorrE Eggs en cocotte with Parmesan AU PARMESAN rARMESAN -- Cook as for Eggs en m cocotte AU for Eggs Cook as cocotte with with cream. grated Pannesan Parmesan cheese cheese over over the the eggs eggs and and pour Sprinkle grated melted butter over. Bake in the oyen oven in aa bain-marie. rN COCOTTE orurs EN cocorrs ÀA LA la périgourdine. OEUFS Eggs en cocotte ài la p6rigourdine. pfnlcounorNs -- Break Break the the eggs PÉRIGOURDINE lined with a eggs into into cocottes lined purbe of yolks. Bake in of foie gras. Put aa nut of butter on the yolks. purée oven in aa bain-marie. When cooked, surround the yolks the oyen (se SAUCE). Périgueux sauce (see with aa ring of Pirigueux Eggs en en cocotte àI la la rouennaise. OEUFS uN COCOTTE cocorrE À A LA I-l Eggs orurs EN RoUENNAISE -- Cook as for Eggs en cocotte à d la Ia pdrigourdine, ROUENNAISE périgourdine, (see FORCEMEAT) using àri gratin forcemeat FORCEMEAT) instead using forcemeat (see instead of (see gras. Surround with aa ring of pur& of sauce (see purée foie gras. of foie of Wine sauce which butter has been added. SAUCE) to which i la strasbourgeoise. stra$ourgeoise. OEUFS oEUFs rN cocorrr ÀA Eggs en cocotte à EN COCOTTE LA STRASBOURGEOISE srRAsBouRGEoIsE -- Line Line the the cocottes cocottes with with chopped LA and cook in the oyen oven in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. truffies, add add the eggs, eggs, and gras sautéed Garnish each each cocotte cocotte with with aa knob knob of of foie saut6ed in Garnish foie gras butter. Surround Surround with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (see butter. and butter have been added. SAUCE) to which which Madeira and Eggs en en cocotte with tarragon. oEUFs EN rN COCOTTE cocorte ÀA Eggs tarragon. OEUFS cocotte with r'EsrRAGoN -- Cook the eggs eggs as as described described under Eggs en L'ESTRAGON Cook the under Eggs (see EGGS, tocotte (see EGGS, Basic egg dishes). dishes). When the eggs eggs are ,:ocotte Basic egg When the

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EGGS gravy f:Iavoured flavoured ring of concentrated veal veal gravy cookd, pour aa ring cooked, yolks. Garnish with blanched round the with tarragon tarragon round the yolks. Garnish with with The cocottes can lined leaves, arranged in in aa star. The can be Iined tarragon lea ves, arranged if desired desired.. chopped tarragon, if with chopped eN COCOTTE A LA rA, la tartare. tartare. OEVI'S oELrFs EN cocorrE À en cocotte Eggs en cocotte àI la Eggs and Add chopped chives and TARTARE -- Mince Mince raw raw beef finely finely.. Add TARTARE pepper. Line salt and the cocottes cocottes with with this season with with salt and pepper. season Line the in the the eggs eggs.. Pour Pour aa ring ring of fresh fresh cream cream and break in mixture and yolks. Sake round the Bake in in the oyen oven in rn aa bain-marie. the yolks. round (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS coLBERr -eggs (soft-boUed or poached). oEUFs COLBERT Colbert eggs Colbert garnished with with a Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in croustades garnished the cooked Arrange (see vegetables blended blended with with Bichamel sauce (see macidoine of vegelables macédoine Béchamel sauce BUTTER, the eggs with Colbert butter (see BUTTER, SAUCE). Mask lhe butters). Compound butters). Compound (soft-boiled or poacbed). poached). OEUFS oEUFs COMTESSE coMrnssE -Comtesse eggs (soft-boUed Bake tartlets and garnish thern Sake them with a salpicon of truffies truffles and with Arrange the cooked eggs on top mushrooms. Arrange lOP and mask with (see SAUCE) ftavoured flavoured with with sherry. sherry. Put Put 1I Supr€me sauce sauce (see Suprême trufre on each egg. slice of truffle (srr le plat). OEUFS Cond6 eggs 1I (sur of onurs CONDÉ cot*o6 -- Pipe aa border of Condé pur6ed red red beans onto aa buttered Grill or puréed buttered ovenproof dish. Grill them in lhe the bottom fry two slices of lean bacon and arrange lhem of the of lhe dish. Break the eggs on top and cook in the usual way. (srr le plat). OEUFS Cond6 €ggs orurs CONDÉ coNof -- Bake the eggs II (sur Coodé eggs II cooked garnish with as in recipe above above and and when in the lhe recipe when cooked with 2 as with Suprême chicken croquettes. croquettes. Surround Surround with Suprdme sauce small chicken small (see SAUCE). (see (ur le Eggs Conti 1I (sur le plat). OEUFS oeurs CONTI coNrl -- Line aa buttered ovenproof dish dish with wÎlh I1 tablespoon lentil lenti! pur6e. purée. Break Break the slices eggs and bake in the eggs into the dish and lhe usual way. 2 thin th in slices saut6ed in butter or grilled, added.. lean bacon, sauléed grilled, can be added Eggs Conti tr fi (soft-boited (soft-boiled or poached). orurs OEUFS coNrl CONTI - Line Line a pie dish with a thin th in puree purée of lentils and arrange arrange the cooked eggs on the pur6e. purée. àh la coque coque -- See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. Eggs n cOrELErrEs Egg c6telettes côtelettes (hard-boiled). orurs OEUfS EN EN CÔTELETTES - Dice the whites and and yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and blend with a thick Bdchamel sauce (see Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) to lO which which raw raw yolks of egg have been added. added. Chill. ChilI. 50-9. (2-oz.) Divide this Divide this mixture into into 50-g. (2-oz.) pieces and and shape into egg and and deep-fry. into cutlets. cUllets. Dip Dip in in egg and breadcrumbs and deep-fry . Arrange Arrange in a circle on aa dish. Put a frill frill on each cutlet and garnish Serve with garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) or other suitable sauce. sauce. Egg Egg c6telettes côtelettes (cutlets) (cutlets) can can also also be be served served with with other garnishes, gamishes, such such as as green green vegetables vegetables with witb butter or or cream, cream, macidoine, macédoine, tomato lomato fondue, fondue, risotto, risotlo, and and different kinds of of pasta or pur6es. purées. The mixture for egg cutlets cUllels may be be varied. Diced Diced mushrooms rooms and and truffes truffies may may be be added, added, or if if a a meat mixture is preferred, diced ham or diced pickled tongue. Egg cutlets can be be cooked in in clarified clarmed butter bUller instead of being being deep-fried. deep-fried . Eggs Eggs with cream cream (srr (sur le le plat). plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À LA cRtME CRÈME -- Break Break the lhe eggs eggs into into individual individual buttered buttered ovenproof dishes. dishes. Surround Surround with fresh fresh cream and cook in the tbe usual usual way. Alternatively, cooked eggs can be surroundod surrounded with a Alternatively, the cookd ribbon of Crearn Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE) . Eggs with OEUFS A À r.l LA with crerm cream sauce sauce (soft-boiled (soft-boiJed or poached). osuFs cniw croûtons fried in butter, butter, and CRÈME - Put cooked eggs on cro0tons cover with Crean Cream sauce (sw (see SAUCE). This recipe is also called Eggs Eggs dà la bichamel. héchamel. Egp Eggs ià la Crecy I1 (soft-boited (soft-boiJed or poached). poached). oEtfis OEVI'S A À LA LA cRtcycRÉCY - Arrange Arrange the lhe cooked eggs eB,gs in a pyramid pyramid on on a foundafoundation tion of of Carrot Carrot purie purée (see PUREE;. PUREE). Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs ià Ia la Cr6cy Crécy tr II (srr (sur le le plaQ. plat). oEUFs OEUFS A À r,c, LA cRfcy CRÉCY -- Spread Spread I tablespoon lablespoon Carrot Carroi purie purée (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) on the the bottom botlom of

small small buttered buttered ovenproof dishes dishes and and break break in in the the eggs. Cook UCE). Cook and and then thgn surround with with Cream Crearn sauce (see SA SAUCE). (frid). OEUFS Eggs àn la h cr~le cr6ole (fried). oEItFs À A LA r.l CRÉOLE cnEorr -- Fry th!! the eggs grilled courgette halves. FiJI in oi! Fill the cenlre in oil and arrange on on grilled centre (see RICE). POUI of the dish with Rice à with Rice d la la créole criole (see Pour Noisette huiler BUTTER, Compound Compound bulters) butters) over the eggs. butter (see BUTTER, (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS A LA Eggs àt la la cressooière oELJFS À LA cressonibre 1I (soft-boiled pie dish Arrange the CRESSONŒRE cnrssoNrinn -- Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in aa pie dish lined (see Watercress purie. with purée. Coyer with Watercress Cover with with Cream Cremn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Bake in in the oyen, stock oven, or with concentrated veal slock to which which butter has added.. has been added to (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs Egp ài la cressonilre II II (sur oEUFs À A LA rA CREScnssh cressooière le plat). (sw SONLÈRE purée (see soxdnn -- Pipe Pipe aa border border of of thick thick Watercress purde W ATERCRESS) onto aa buttered ovenproof WATERCRESS) ovenproof dish. Break in (se SA the eggs. Surround the yolks with Cre am sauce (see U CE). SAUCE). Creun Bake in the oven. oven. Sake (hard-boiled). OEUFS EN CR~UETIES Egg cRoeuErrrs -Eg croquettes croquettes (hard-boiled). oErrFs EN as for Prepare the croquette mixture as Egg côtelettes for Egg cdtelettes binding White or Bichamel with Béchamel sauce (see SA UCE) . with White SAUCE). form the mixture into other shapes. When cold, fonn into eggs, eggs, or other shapes. Dip in in egg egg and and fry. fried Dip fry . Garnish and breadcrumbs and Garnish with with fried (se SAUCE). parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato or Cream Crearn sauce (see parsley. SAUCE). poached). oEUFS Daudet eggs (soft-boHOO or or poached). OEUFS DAUDET DA UDET -Daudet eggs (mft-boiled lhe cooked eggs on puff pastry croustades covered Arrange the on puffpastry with chopped breast breast of chicken. Cover with pur6ed puréed truffies (ser, SA bound with SAUCE). wilh rich rich White sauce (see UCE). DAUMoNT Daumont Daurnoot eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEttFS DAUMONTArrange the the cooked large mushrooms cooked cookod eggs eggs on on large cooked in garnishd with salpicon of and garnished butter and with aa salpicon crayfish tails lails àd butter of crayfish (see SAUCE). Put la Nantua. Nantua. Coyer la with Nantua sauce Put a Cover with sauce (see each egg. egg. sliver of truffie trutHe on eacb Delmonico Delmooico eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFS OEUFS DELMoNIco DELMONICO (see SA -- Coat the the cooked eggs eggs with UCE) with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) truffles, and put them on a croustade of mixed with chopped truffes, filled with with lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, and noodles filled lruffles, blended blended with with concentrated concenlrated Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see truffies, SAUCE). Glaze in the lhe oven. poached). OEVI'S DEMIDemi-deuil eggs (soft-boiled or Demi-deuil eggp (soft-boiled oELrFs DEMIor poached). DEUIL DEUIL -- Arrange Arrange the cooked eggs in a puffpastry puff pastry shell filled sauce (see cream . Coyer Suprême sauce with mushrooms in cream. Cover with with SuprAme SA UCE) . Garnish Garnish with with diced diced truffies truffies blended blended with SAUCE). with conSAUCE). Madeira sauce sauce (see SAUCE). centrated Madeira à la diable (ftid). (fTied). oEUFs OEUFS A À r,l' LA oLc,sLE DIABLE - Fry the eggs Eggs il Turn them in sizzling sizzling (nearly (nearly brown) brown) butter. butter. Tum them without without in the yolks. yolks . Arrange on a a very very hot dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle breaking the with brown butter and a dash dash of heated vinegar. la Diane Diane (soft-boiled or poached). osuFs OEUFS A À LA DIANE D1Al'-<"EEggs ià la Eggs Arrange the the cooked eggs eggs on hollowed-out slices of bread, bread. gamished with purffi puréed game. game. Cover Coyer with fried in butter and garnished Salmis sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which diced diced truffies and butter Salmis have have been added. added . eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poacbed). oEUFs OEUFS DINo DlNO - Arrange Arrange Dino egs tartlets lined with finely shredded shredded breast breast the cooked eggs in tartlets of chicken and cipes cèpes (or small small cultivated cultivated mushrooms) mushrooms) mixed of Curry sauce (se (see SAUCE). with cream. Top with Curry Duchess egp eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poacbed). oEurs OEUFS A À LA LA DUcHESSE DUCHESSE Duchess Arrange the the cooked eggs on oval potato potato cakes which which have -- Arrange golden. Boil down veal veal stock, stock, add butter to it been baked golden. and pour over over the eggs. eggs . OEUFS A À LA Duxelles eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or or' poached). poached). oEUFs Duxelles the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on oval oval crottons croûtons DUXELLES - Arrange the DUxELLEs ham tossed butter and garnished garnished with wilh thin thin slices slices of ofham lOssed cooked in butter in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with Duxelles Duxelles sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) with wilh in butter added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley . butter Easter eggs. eggs. oELrFIi OEUFS on DE pAeurs PÂQUES -- Hard-boiled eggs with with Easter painted shells; shells ; or sweets made of sugar, chocolate chocolate dyed or painted elC., shaped like Iike eggs, which which are offered at Easter. Easter. etc., We may may owe owe Easter Easter eggs eggs to to the lhe Phoenicians. Phoenicians. They We 344 Escargots (snalls) (snai!s) from (rom Burgundy Burgundy (Phot. (Phol . Nicolas) Nicolas) Escargots

*

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3lr

EGGS EGGS believed that that night, night, the the beginning of of everything, everything, begot begot an an believed egg from from which which came love and came love and the human human race. race. Towards Towards egg Easter the the sun reaches the the Equator, sun reaches Equator, the pass, the the long long nights nights pass, the Easter primeval egg egg breaks, breaks, and and mankind mankind isis re-bom. re-born. primeval past at In the the past at Easter Easter people were were content content simply simply to to In exchange dyed dyed or or decorated hens' hens' eggs. eggs. exchange popular colour The most most popular colour for for Easter Easter eggs eggs isis bright red. red. The In Germany Germany and parts of and Sorne some parts of France France eggs eggs used to to be be In garden and hidden in in the the ga~den and children children would would search search for for them, them, hidden rejoicing when when they they found found them them in in aa green nest. nest. Hard boiled eggs can can be dyed in in the following be dyed following ways. Coral red. red. Boil salted water for salted water for 45 45 minutes minutes with with aa dash of of Coral lemon (5 oz.) sachet containing g. (5 containing 150 150 g. oz.) cochineal cochineal for for lem on juice, aa sachet pints,4!pints) g.(2o2.)alum. water, and and 50 50 g. Cook 22litres litres (3f pints, 4t pints) water, (2 oz.) alum. Cook the eggs eggs in this, this, keeping keeping them them on on the the boil boil for for 12 l2.minutes. the minutes. Drain, dip dip in in cold cold water water and and dry. dry. Drain, Dark maroon. maroon Cook the eggs, Cook the eggs, as as described described above, above, in in water water Dark (9 oz.) mixed with g. (9 udth 250 250 g. oz.) camwood, camwood, and and 1I teaspoon teaspoon each each of of mixed and salt. salt. alum and Green. Cook the eggs, as as described the eggs, described ab above, in water water mixed mixed ove, in Green. with spinach spinach which which has has been been scalded, scalded, drained drained and pounded and pounded with in aa mortar. in Yellow. Cook the eggs, as as described above, in in salted salted water water Yellow. yellow onion peel, aa pinch of safron, and with yellow and aa dash mixed with dash juice. of lemon juice. of Modern vegetable vegetable dyes dyes make make colouring colouring eggs eggs aa simple simple Modern process. process. (cold). OEUFS Eggs àt l'écarlate] I'ecarlate I (cold). oEUFs À A L'ÉCARLATE r'fc,tnrlrr -- Cover Cover soft-boiled or poached eggs with with half-set half-set jelly, to to which chopped pickled tongue has been added. added. Arrange the the eggs jelly. on slices of pickled pickled or smoked ton tongue. gue. Cover with jelly. (soft-boiled or Eggs I'6carlate fi II (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). Eggs ài l'écarlate onurs ÀA t'6c.lnr.lr[ -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked eggs on croûtons cro0tons fried L'ÉCARLATE fried in in butter. Cover with (see SAUCE) to with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see butter. Cover to which butter has added. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with diced, diced, smoked, butter has been been added. smoked, or pickled tongue. pickled tongue. put (sr le plat). OEUFS l'6carlate m Eggs i l'écarlate Itr (sur oErrFs À A L'ÉCARLATE r'6c,murr -- Put I tablespoon (s* SAUCE) into tat)le~;pC)on concentrated Tomato sauce (see Break in aa butterod heatproof h"".tnrA.'"\' dish. Break in the the eggs, eggs, and and sprinkle with pickled or smoked smoked tongue. tongue. Bake until with finely diced pickled until the white is set. Edward VII oErrFs EDOUARD EDouARD VU eggs (soft-boiled or poached). l'U;iI\.OIJIOC'U}. OEUFS vn cooked eggs eggs on VII - Place Place the the cooked on Risotto (see RICE) RICE) mixed with alternating the with diced diced trufles, truffies, alternating the eggs with with slivers slivers of pickled or smoked smoked tongue cut in the shape of cocks' combs and heated neated in sherry. Cover the eggs with concentrated veal stock with butter added, and and garnish each with a slice of truffie. truffie. (stufred). oEUFS Elisabeth eggs eggs (stuffed). OEUFS ELTSABETH ELISABETH - Cut Cut off off the ends of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs so they look like barrels. Take out the yolks without breaking the whites. Rub the yolks through aa fine fine sieve. Mix with-an equal sieve. Mix quantity quantity of of thick thick Artichoke purCe (se (see PUREE). Add chopped truffies, and season. season. Fill the eggs with this tbis mixture, piling piling it up on top. Place Place each each egg egg on on an an artichoke heart heart which which has has been stewed stewed in butter. Cover with Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Arrange the eggs in a crown on a dish. Fill Fil! the centre centre with a Ragofrt Ragoût of oftruffles RAGOÛT) cooked cooked in Madeira. Madeira. truffies (see RAGOOT) Esaii Esaü eggs (soft-boiled or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS esl0 ESAÛ - Arrange the the cooked eggs in a pyramid on Lentil Lent il purie purée (se (see PUREE). Garnish Gamish with heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons croûtons frid fried in butter. butter. pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal veal stock, with butter added, added, over the eggs. Alternatively, arrange the the eggs eggs on a croustade croustade of of crustless Alternatively, arrange bread, bread, fried, fried, hollowed hollowed out, out, and and filled filled with with lentil lenhl pur6e. purée. Cover added. Cover with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock with with butter added. Eggs Eggs ià l'espagnoh l'espagnole]I (cold). oErrFs OEUFS A À r'espA,cNorr L'ESPAGNOLE - Cover

the cooked cooked eggs with meat jelly to which tomato jelly has the has been added. added. Decorate each each with with aa ring ring of of blanched onion. been onion. pinch of Garnish with with aa pinch parsley, and of chopped chopped parsley, and cover Garnish cover with with jelly. Arrange half-set jelly. Arrange the the eggs eggs on on buttered buttered rounds rounds of half-set of toast. toast. Surround with with small small de-seeded de-seeded tomatoes tomatoes dressed dressed with with oil, Surround oil, vinegar, salt, salt, and pepper, and and pepper, and filled fitlod with green with diced diced sweet vinegar, sweet green pimentos seasoned seasonedàdlala vin,'1iffrpl,/p pimentos vinaigrette. Eggs ài l'espagnole I'esprgnole fitr (fried). OEUFS oEUFs ÀA L'ESPAGNOLE r'nspAcxolr - Fry Eggs Fry the eggs eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa crown, crown, alternating alternating with the with halved tomatoes tomatoes fried fried in in oil. Fitl the oil. Fill the centre centre of of the the dish dish with halved with onion rings fried fried inin oil. oil. Pour Pour aa ring ring of of Tomato Tomato sauce on ion rings sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with aa salpicon pimentos round the salpicon of of sweet sweet pimentos UCE) mixed SA the eggs.

Itr m

(soft-boiled or Eggs àn l'espagnole I'espagnole poached). OEUFS or poacbed). (soft-boiled orurs ÀA t'sspAcNor-E -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on tomatoes L'ESPAGNOLE tomatoes cooked cooked

in oil oil and and filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of pimentos. Fil! of sweet sweet pimentos. in Fill the the centre of of the the dish dish with with onion onion rings rings fried fried in centre in oil. oil. Cover Cover the the (se SAUCE) eggs with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with red red peppers. Spanish peppers. (slr lele plat). Egp àA l'espagnole plat). OEUFS I'espagnole IV IV (sur oEUFs ÀA L'ESPAGNOLE r'BsplcNou -Line aa fireproof fireproof dish dish with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped Line chopped onion onion lightly fried frid inin butter butter and and seasoned seasoned with lightly pepper. with red red Spanish Spanish pepper. Break in in the the eggs and and cook cook in in the Break the usual usual way. way. Garnish Garnish with with Tomato fondue FONDUE) mixed Tomato mixed with with diced diced sweet sweet fon&rc (see FONDUE) pimentos cooked in in butter. butter. Favart eggs (soft-boiled or poached). oErlFs FAvART Favart Arrange the cooked eggs in small tartlet cases filled with a Arrange salpicon of of calves' salpicon calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffi.es and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended with with Velouté Velouti sauce blended sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Fill Fill the the middle middle with large truffied quenelles. Cover with truffied quenelles. with (see with Suprême Suprhme sauce sauce (see sAUCE). (soft-boiled or Eggp à la Eggs la Oamande flamande ]I (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poacbed). oeurs ÀA LA FLAMANDE -- Arrange FLAMANDE Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on aa layer layer of of chicory chicory (U.S. Belgian Belgian endive) (U.S. endive) cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Cover Cover with with AlleAlle(see SAUCE). mande or mande or Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). poached eggs on Alternatively, arrange arrange the poached on croûtons crottons fried fried in butter. butter. Put in Put aa head head of of chicory chicory cooked àd la la flamande flamande between between each each egg. egg. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor liquor from from the the endives, add add cream, cream, and and bring bring to to the the boil. Add fresh boil. Add fresh butter butter and and pour over over the the eggs. (srr le plat). OEUFS Eggs àt la la flamande II (sur le plat). oEUFs À A LA r.l FLAMANDE rr.lulNDE -This me as This name usually means means the the sa same Eggs àh la as Eggs la bruxelloise, bruxelloise, poached, soft-boiled, but but poached, soft-boiled, or or fried fried eggs, eggs, garnished with with hop hop shoots shoots cooked in in butter butter or or cream cream are are also called called Eggs Eggs àd la la flamande. flamande. Florentine eggs (soft-boiled, poached, poached, or or sur srr le le plat). OEUFS oErJFs A r,c, TToRENTTNE - Arrange the cooked cooked eggs in gratin dishes on a layer of spinach cooked in in butter. butter. Cover with Mornay (sen SAUCE). Sprinkle sauce (see gratod cheese Sprinkle with grated cheese and and melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in aa hot hot oven. Eggs ài la la forestière] forestibre I (poached). OEUFS oEUFs À A LA r-l FORESTlÈRE ronnsrrinn -Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs on on croustades filled filled with with morels fried frid in butter and and mixed with fried, diced bacon. bacon. Cover the the eggs with with Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Eggs (nrr le plat). OEUFS Eggs àt la forestière forestibre fi tr (sur oEr,rFs À A LA r",c, FORESTIÈREronssntRE Garnish Garnish the ovenproof ovenproof dishes with with diced, diced, blanched blanched bacon, lightly fried frid in butter. Break put 1I tablespoon Break in the eggs eggs and put morels, fried fried in butter, butter, on on each side. side. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven and and then season. (se SAUCE) round season. Pipe Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce sauce (see round the edges. Georgette (poached). OEUFS Georgette eggs (poacbed). onurs GEORGETTE cEoRcErrE -- Partly potato and put in 1I tablespoon tables po on Crayfish hollow out a baked potato la Nantua (see YFISH). Add (see CRA tail ragofit àd la poached CRAYFISH). Add aa poached with Nantua sauce egg and cover with sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan and melted butter. Brown the with grated Parmesan the top in a hot oven. Grand Duke eggs poacbed). OEUFS (soft-boiled or poached). Grand eggs ]I (soft-boiled oErJFs GRANDcRAND-

i

345 Sluffed fennel fennel (Phot. (Phal. Nicolasl Nicolas) Stuffed

rl

EGGS EGGS

,1r.rtil (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Florentine eggs eggs (Robert Florentine

pur6es. OEUFS DURs SUR suR oEUFs DURS various purées. Hard-boiled eggs eggs on on various Hard-boiled served with with aa be served Hard-boiled eggs eggs can can be - Hard-boiled chicory, mushrooms, chicory, pur6e of carrots, celery, celery, mushrooms, asparagus, carrots, of asparagus, purée potato, or or Jerusalem Jerusalem sweet potato, sorrel, sweet lettuce, chestnuts, chestnuts, sorrel, lettuce, artichokes. artichokes. DURS ÀA LA LA oEUFs DURS with watercress. watercress. OEUFS Hard-boiled eggs eggs with Hard-boiled bed of of hard-boiled eggs eggs on on aa bed Arrange the the hard-boiled cRessoNNtinn -- Arrange CRESSONNIÈRE (see WATERCRESS). with Cream Cream purie (see Cover with WATERCRESS). Cover Watercress purée Watercress (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce sorEN TASSE u HOLTAssE ÀA LA la hoUandaise. hollandaise. OEUFS oEUFS EN in cups cups ài la Eggs Eggs in with insides with the insides teacups and and coat coat the Butter 33 teacups LANDAISE -- Butter LANDAISE each cup and to each cup and ham to grated cheese. Add aa layer of diced diced harn layer of cheese. Add grated layer with aa layer pour in for an an omelette. Cover with whisked as as for omelette. Cover in 1I egg egg whisked pour 12 for 12 layer of cheese. Cook Cook for thick layer of cheese. with aa thick ham and and top top with of of harn (see sauce (see Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce minutes in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Serve minutes SAUCE). SAUCE). (fried). OEUFS Fry eggs eggs L'ITALIENNE -- Fry onurs ÀA L'ITALIENNE Eggs Eggs ài l'italienne I'italienne 1I (fried). Alternate with with dish. Alternate on aa round round dish. in aa crown crown on in in oil oil and and arrange arrange in (see ltalian sauce sauce (see in butter. butter. Pour Pour Italian ham sautéed saut6ed in thin thin slices slices of of ham SAUCE) over the the eggs. eggs. SAUCE) over (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oelrs ÀA or poached). Eggs Eggs àt l'italienne l'italienne Dtr (soft-boiled and in butter butter and crustless bread bread in L'ITALIENNE Fry slices slices of of crustless L'ITALIENITE -- Fry with aa blended with ham blended chopped harn spread salpicon of of chopped spread with with aa salpicon (se SA Arrange SAUCE). UCE). Arrange Madeira-Havoured Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace (seeSAUCE) pour Italian sauce (see SAUCE) ltalian sauce the on top top and and pour the cooked cooked eggs eggs on with chopped chopped eggs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the eggs. with added, over over the with butter butter added, parsley. parsley. (srr lele plat plat or oeurs ÀA en cocotte). cocotte). OEUFS Eggs Itr (sur or en I'italienne ID EgS àir l'italienne with orcocottes cocotteswi fireproofdishes dishes or L'ITALIENNE th Line buttered L'ITALIENNE -- Line buttered fireproof

fried in in DUC on oval oval croûtons cro0tons fried eggs on Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs DUc -- Arrange butter (or pastry shells) of truffie truffie on on (or on puff pastry with aa sliver sliver of shells) with on puff (se,e SAUCE). with each. Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle with Mornay sauce (see each. Cover with hot in aa hot grated Brown the the tops tops in grated cheese melted butter. and melted butter. Brown cheese and oven. tips. truffies and and asparagus asparagus tips. diced truffies oven. Garnish with diced Grand (srr lete plat). plat). OEUFS cRAND-DUc -oEUFs GRAND-DUC eggs D tr (sur Duke eggs Grand Duke (see sauce (see Cover light Mornay Mornay sauce dishes with aa light eggs in in their dishes Cover the eggs SAUCE). grated cheese and melted melted butter. butter. with grated cheese and Sprinkle with SAUCE). Sprinkle Cook asparawith diced diced truffies truffies and and asparaGarnish with hot oven. oven. Garnish Cook in aa hot gus gus tips. tips. Eggs au poached). OEUFS (soft-boiled or AU GRATINGRATIN gratin (soft-boiled or poached). oEUFs AU au gratin Prepare (see below). eggs (see below). Mornay eggs llke Mornay Prepare like Halévy (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS slr6w -oEUFs HALÉVY or poached). eggs (soft-boiled Hal6vy eggs Arrange Garnish in tartlets tartlets baked baked blind. blind. Garnish eggs in Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs with aa salpicon veloutd sauce. sduce. Cover Cover blended with with velouté of chicken chicken blended salpicon of half with which sauce, to to which half with with tomato tomato sauce, santce, half with allemande allemande sauce, butter added. has been been added. butter has Hard-boiled cntcon6r -DURs SUR suR CHICORÉE endive. OEUFS oEUFs DURS eggs witb with endive. Hard-boiled eggs Arrange in endive cooked cooked in on braised braised endive hard-boiled eggs eggs on Arrange the the hard-boiled stock stock or veal'stock or aa with concentrated concentrated veaf Cover with or cream. cream. Cover stock or light UCE). (see SA SAUCE). light Cream sauce (see Crearn sauce Hard-boiled DURS garnishes. OEUFS oEUFs DURS various garnisbes. eggs with with various Hard-boiled eggs AVEC eggs and and the hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs DIVERSEs -- Shell Shell the cARNITuREs DIVERSES AVEc GARNITURES heat dry them. them. water. Drain Drain and and dry in salted salted boiling boiling water. heat them thern in Arrange various garnish them in the the various shown in them as as shown Arrange and and garnish recipes. recipes. Hard-boiled DURS oEUFS DURS vegetables. OEUFS macfioine of of vegetables. eggs on on aa macédoine Hard-boiled eggs SUR eggs the hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs Arrange the or LÉGUMES lEcuuns -- Arrange MAcfDoINB DE suR MACÉDOINE on cream. or cream. with butter butter or vegetables blended blended with of vegetables on aa macédoine macidoine of

punfEs DIVERSES DIvERSEs PURÉES

346 346 A selection of cheeses (So/exa. Phot. Vilter)

EGGS EGGS

Preparing eggs eggs Preparing hollandiase àdlalahollandiase (Claire) (Claire)

Placing the thecups Placing cups bain-marie ininaabain-marie (Claire\ (Claire)

chopped ham. ham. Break in the the eggs Break in eggs and and cook cook in in the the usuaJ lean, chopped usual (s@ SAUCE) way. Pour Pour aa ring ring of ltaliilt sauce of Italian sauce (see SAUCE) round round the the way. eggs. eggs. (m cocotte). Jeannette eggs eggs (en cocotte). OEUFS oEUFs JEANNETTE JEANNETTE EN EN COCOTTEcocorrr Jeannette Line aa cocotte cocotte with with aa layer layer of of chicken chicken Quenelle Line Qumelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEATS). Break in in the the eggs eggs and (see TS). Break and cook cook in in the the usual way. way. Gamish with asparagus Garnish with asparagus tips. tips. Surround usual Surround with with (see SAUCE). Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). Velouté Jellied eggs eggs à i ]ala française. frangaise. OEUFS JeUied oEUFs GLACÉS cLAcEs ÀA LA u FRANÇAISE ruNqArsE -IV. as aa border IV. See Eggs as JelHed tarragon tarragon eggs, eggq also also called Jellied called àI la la Chartres. Chartres. OEUFS onrrs ÀA L'EsrRAcoN À A LA r-l GELÉE, L'ESTRAGON cn6s. ÀA LA r,c, CHARTRES cHARTRES -- Line Line moulds moulds shaped like like half half an Ids, with shaped an egg, egg, or or dariole dariole mou moulds, with white white jelly. Decorate tarragon-flavoured meat meat jelly. tarragon-flavoured Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon leaves. (poached or leaves. Arrange Arrange the tarragon the eggs eggs (poached or soft-boiled) soft-boiled) jelly. Leave on in the the moulds and in and fiJi fill them them with jelly. on ice ice to to set. set. Turn the eggs out and arrange Tum arrange them in in aa crown crown formation. formation, jelly. Decorate jelly Fill Fill the the centre with chopped centre with chopped jeJly. Decorate with with jelly cro0tons. croûtons. Alternatively, decorate decorate the the cooked cooked eggs eggs with with tarragon jelly. Arrange them leaves leaves and and glaze with jelly. them in in aa deep deep dish dish on on th in slices of cooked ham. If-set jelly. Chili thin ham. Coyer half-set Cover with ha on Chill on ice before serving. This is serving. This is the the method method most most often often used used in in restaurants. restaurants. or soft-boiled Poached or Poached soft-boiled eggs eggs can can also also be be arranged arranged in in cassolettes lined individual cassolettes individual lined with with thin thin slices slices of of ham ham and filled with jelly. Jockey-club eggs eggs (sur (mr le Jockey-club plat). OEUFS le plat). oEUFs JOCKEY-CLUB JocKEy-cLr.JB -Cook the eggs sur le plat. Trim with with aa cutter, cutter, leaving only white. Place a thin thin band band of white. a griled croûtons Place the the eggs eggs on on grilled cro0tons spread with with puree purée of foie foie gras gras and spread and arrange arrange in in aa crown formation. Fill Fill the the middle of the formation. the dish dish with with sliced slicod calf's kidney saut6ed sautéed in Madeira. Madeira. Top Top each each egg egg with with aa sliver sliver of of truffie. truffie. Egg kromeskies (hard-boiled). onurs OEUFS EN Eg EN CROMESQUIS cRoMEseurs -an egg egg croquette croquette mixture, as for Egg Egg côtelettes, Prepare an as for cdtelettes, adding truffies and mushrooms. Bind with Allemande adding Allemanfu sauce sauce 3! dt. dl. (generous (generous j~ pint, l! cups) (see SAUCE), allowing 3| pint, 1| cups) for salpicon. Leave Leave the the mixture to cool. 500 g. (18 oz.) salpicon. Divide into small smalJ portions and and make them into oval Divide oval or or cork-shaped cakes. Dip in aa light batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. Gamish with fried parsley. parsley. Drain, and season season with fine fine salt. Garnish Drain, Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with with Tomato Serve Egg kromeskies ià la la polonaise. polonaise. oEuFs OEUFS EN EN cRoMEseurs CROMESQUIS A À Egg LA poLoNAIsE POLONAISE - Prepare the mixture mixture as as above above and and divide divide into into LA - Prepare the portions when when cold. Shape Shape into into rectangles. rectangles. Wrap Wrap each small portions each one in in aa thin thin crApe crêpe (pancake). Dip Dip in in aa light light batter batter and and fry fry one deep fat. fat. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato or or Piquante Piquante sauce sauce (see (see in deep SAUCE). sAUCE). Eggs à la la languedocienne languedocienne (fried). (fried). onurs OEUFS A À LA raxcueLANGUEEggs

i

DocIENNE -- Fry DOCIENNE Fry the the eggs eggsin in oil. oil. Arrange Arrangeeach eachon onaaslice sliceof of aubergine aubergine fried fried inin oil. oil. Fill Fill the the middle middle of garlicofthe thedish withgarlicdish with f1avoured flavoured Tomato Tomato fondue. Dot with (see with Noisette Noisette butter butter (see fondue. Dot BUTTER. BUTTER. Compound Compound butters). but t er s). Eggs - Line (srr lele plat). Eggs ài la plat). OEUFS la lorraine lorraine (sur m LORRAINE onursÀALA r,onnlNsLine aa buttered buttered ovenproof with thin ovenproof dish dish with thin rashers rashers of grilledbacon of grilled bacon and slivers of and slivers of Gruyère cheese. Break Gruydre cheese. Break in in the the eggs. eggs. Pour Pouraaring ring of of fresh fresh cream yolks and cream round round the the yolks and bake bakeinin the theoyen. oven. Lucullus (soft-boiled or Ilcullus eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs LUCULLUS LUcuLLUs - Arrange Arrange each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an artichoke artichoke heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter and and garnished with aa salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies, trufres, and and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound with with concentrated concentrated Velouté Velouti UCE). sauce (see SA sauce (see SAUCE). Coyer Cover the the eggs eggs with with Suprême (see SAUCE) SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) toto which which coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies have have been been added. added. Put Put diced diced foie gras which which has has been been seasoned seasoned with pepper and with salt salt and and pepper and foie gras tossed tossed in in butter butter in in the the centre centre of of the the dish. dish. Alternate Alternate the the eggs eggs with with cocks' cocks' combs combs àd la la Villeroi. Villeroi. Eggs (sr lele plat). Eggs ài la la maraichère maralchlre (sur plat). OEUFS oEr.rFs ÀA LA m MARAîcHÈREumdcntnE Line Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish with 1I tablespoon dish with tablespoon chiffonnade (q.v.) chffinnade (q.v.) of of lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, and and chervil, chervil, tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Break Break in in the the eggs. Add aa thin eggs. Add thin rasher rasher of of bacon bacon sautéed saut6od in in butter. butter. Bake Bake in in the the usual usual way. way. Marianne eggs (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIANNE MARTANNE -Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on de-seeded de-seeded tomato tomato halves halves cooked cooked in in butter butter and and filled filled with with thick (see FONthick Tomato Tomato fondue FONfon&te (see DUE). DUE). Top Top each each egg with aa sJice egg with slice of of black black Madagascar Madagascar potato potato cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and coat coat with with Maître Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butters) mixed mixod with with dissolved dissolved meat jelly. Marivaux eggs UX (soft-boiled or eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MARIVA MARTvA(x Gamish Garnish aa flan flan case, case, baked baked blind, blind, with with aa salpicon salpicon of of mushmushrooms and truilles. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. rooms and truffies. Arrange the cooked eggs in the flan. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) with with butter butter added, added, over over the the eggs. eggs. Masséna (soft-boiled or Mass6na eggs eggs (soft-boiled poached). OEUFS or poached). oEr;Fs MASSÉNA ulssfNl -Place Place each each cooked cooked egg egg on on an an artichoke artichoke heart heart cooked cooked in in butter garnished with butter and with thick and gamished thick Béarnaise Bdarnaise sauce (see sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Top Top each poachod marrowbomi each with with aa slice slice of of poached marrowbond fat. fat. Surround (see SAUCE) Surround with with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce 11(see SAUCE) and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Massenet Massenet eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS or poached). oEUFs MASSENETMASsENET Put Put the the cooked cooked eggs eggs into into croustades croustades made Duchess potato potato made of of Duchess mixture (see POTATOES) mixture (see POTATOES) and and filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of French beans French beans dressed dressed with with butter. butter. Coyer Cover with with Marrow Marrow (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley. sauce 1 sauce I (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Eggs (frid). OEUFS Eggs à n ]a h ménagère m6naglre (fried). oEUFs À A LA r,c, MÉNAGÈRE rvrfr.rA,ctnr -- Fry Fry the eggs in butter. butter. Arrange the eggs in Arrange them them on on aa bed pot bed of of stock stock pot vegetables, sliced vegetables, sliced and and sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with with aa ring of Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce (se SAUCE).

u

347 347

EGGS Garnish eggs (srr (sur le plat). oEUFs OEUFS MEvERBEER MEYERBEER -- Garnish Meyerbeer eggF Surround with cooked eggs eggs with with grilled grilled lamb's lamb's kidney. kidney. Surround cooked Périgueux s.auce sauce (see SAUCE). PCrigueux (fried). oEUFs La ilrIrANtlIs Eggs tà la milanaise milanaise (fried). OEUFS A À LA MILANAISE - Fry the on a a dish dish on a bed bed of Macaroni Macaroni d à Ia la eggs in in oil. oil. Arrange in a eggs Tomato and surround surround with with Tomato milanaise (see (see MACARONI), MACARONI), and

eggs and and cook in eggs in the the oven. oven. Put aa sliver of truffie truffle on on each yolk. Cover with Nantua sauce (see SAUCE). plat). OEUFS BEITRRE onurs AU Eggs Eggs with noisette butter (nrr (sur le le plat). AU BEURRE NoIsErrE NOISETTE -- Heat Heat the butter in aa flameproof dish until light brown or noisette. Break the eggs into the heated butter and bake in the usual usual way. i LA or poached). OEUFS oEUFs À Egp t la la normande normande (soft-boiled or Eggs à puff pastry cooked eggs eggs on on puif NoRMANDE NORMANDE -- Arrange Arrange the the cooked of mussels, mushrooms and croustades, filled with a salpicon of (see SAUCE). with Normande sauce (see SAUCE). shrimps' shrimps' tails, tails, bound bound with Normande sauce Cover wi with debearded oyster oyster on each egg. Cover Put a poached poached and debearded th Normande sauce. Top each egg with aa sliver of truffie. Normande at the end end of this See under separate heading at Onelette -- See Omelette section. section. (srr le plat). OEUFS orurs OPÉRA Eggs opéra opera (sur op6ru, -- Garnish the cooked Eggs with sliced sliced chicken chicken livers livers sautéed saut6ed in on one one side side with eggs on eggs with asparagus tips. Surround Madeira, and the other with asparagus tips. and on on tbe Madeira, veal stock, with butter added. boiled-down veal with aa ring of boiled-down peRtsrNNE -u PARISIENNE le plat). OEUFS oetrs ÀA LA Eggs ài la parisienne (sr (sur le with chicken lined with into ovenproof dishes dishes lined Break the eggs eggs into Break the pickled smoked truffies, and smoked tongue, trufHes, and forcemeat mixed with pickled in the usual way. way. Surround chopped mushrooms. Cook in chopped mushrooms. Cook the usual with aa ring of Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). rARMENTTER -- Bake Bake 44 large Parmentier eggs eggs 1. I. OEUFS oEUFs PARMENTIER Parmentier large potatoes in Halve them and scoop out out the pulp, in the oven. oven. Halve and scoop taking care not to break the skin. Blend the pulp with butter and season. season. Line the potato skins with this pulp, and cream, and with cream half. cream and egg into into each each ha Sprinkle with and break break 1I egg and If. Sprinkle in the oven. bake in described above, the potatoes as as described Alternatively, prepare tbe put aa poacbed poached egg into half. Cover each potato balf. with Cover witb into each and put and (se SAUCE). Sprinkle grated cheese with grated Mornay sauce sauce (see Sprinkle witb Mornay the oven. and melted butter and and brown the top in tbe and (sur le plat). OEUFS rARMENTIER -Parmentier eggs eggs 0n (sor le plat). orurs PARMENTIER Parmentier diced potatoes, fried dish and liline Butter an ovenproof ovenproof disb Butter ne with diced with aa ring ring of cream in tbe the eggs. eggs. Surround witb in butter. Break in and cook in tbe the oven. and poucNAc -(in moulds). A LA r,q, POLIGNAC h Polignac (in moulds). OEUFS oEUFs À Eggs àn la Eggs dariole moulds, Break the eggs into into buttered buttered individual individual dariole Break tbe eggs in each. with aa sliver sliver of trufHe truffie in each. Cook in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. UnUnwitb crofitons fried fried in in butter. butter. Top Top with eggs on onto mould tbe the eggs mould to croûtons (see BUTTER, Maltre d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) d'hdtel butter Maître jelly. dissolved meat jelly. mixed with dissolved A LA porhrgaise 1I (soft-boiled o·r rn oeuFs À oi poached). OEUFS Egp ài la la portugaise Eggs poRTUcAIsE - Arrange half each cooked cooked egg egg on on aa tomato tomato balf PORTUGAISE - Arrange each has been cooked in oil. oil. Cover witb with Portugaise Portugaise sauce which has cooked in which (see SAUCE). ponrucelsn (sr le plat). OEUFS portugaise 0 A LA tr (sur u PORTUGAISE Ia portugaise oEuFs À Eggs àA la on 1I Break eacb each egg egg into into aa buttered buttered ovenproof ovenproof disb dish on -- Break (see FONDUE). Tomato fondue FONDUE). Cook Cook in in the tablespoon Tomato tablespoon fon&te (see oven. pRINcEssE poached). OEUFS Princess eggs eggs (soft-boiled or or poached). oEUFs PRINCESSE Princess puff pastry Arrange tbe the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on croûtons or in in puff -- Arrange cro0tons or (see SAUCE). Cover witb with Suprême Supr€me sauce sauce (see SAUCE). croustades. croustades. Cover with asparagus tips tips and and cbicken Garnish witb chicken breasts shredded Garnisb each egg with aa sliver of trufHe. trufre. strips. Top eacb into julienne strips. into printaniCre 1I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS A LA osuFs À r,l, la printanière Eggs Eges ài la pntNtAr.IItRE - Arrange puff pastry the cooked cooked eggs eggs on on aa puff PRINTANIÈRE - Arrange the (q.v.) of base covered covered with aa printaniere of vegetables dressed base printanière (q.v.) (see SAUCE) with with cream. cream. Prepare Prepare Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb witb with Printanier butter butter added. added. Pour Pour over over the the eggs. eggs. Garnisb Garnish witb Printanier in butter. asparagus tips in pRINr,lNdnr -(cold). OEUFS printaniCre 0tr (cold). A LA u, PRINTANIÈRE Eggs EgS ài la la printanière oEuFs À (soft-boiled or poached) on Arrange the the eggs eggs (soft-boiled or poached) on aa bed bed of of Arrange (q.v.) of vegetables dressed with mayonnaise mayonnaise macédoine macCdoine (q.v.) of vegetables dressod witb gelatine. Gamisb green asparagus with gelatine. strengthened strengthened with Garnish witb with green asparagus with tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Cover with tips. tips. Decorate Decorate tbe the eggs eggs witb Cover with bal f-set jelly. half-set

sauce SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Mirette eggs (poached). oeurs OEUFS MIRETTE - Poach the yolks Mirette baked blind and garnished garni shed only. Place each in a tartlet case baked

-

with a salpicon salpicon of chicken breast and trufles truffies blended blended with Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Pour Madeira-flavoured thick tlick Velouté Madeira-fiavoured (se SAUCE) over the eggs. Suprême sauce (see SuprAme Jilr eggs sur Miroir eggs. eggs. OEUFS MIROIR - Another name for eggs oEUFs MIRoIR

-

Ie plat. le (soft-bolled or poached). OEUFS oEUFs MoNSELET Monselet MONSELET Monselef eggs (soft-boiled cooked in the cooked hearts cooked cooked eggs eggs on on artichoke artichoke hearts Arrange the (se SAUCE), Veloutd sauce sauce (see with chicken butter. Cover chicken Velouté butter. Cover with of veal stock stock and the same of its volume ofveal mixed with one third of quantity of cream, flavoured with sherry and and boiled boiled down. cream, fiavoured in butter, and small diced truffies cooked in Garnish with with diced truffies cooked butter, and Garnish potato croquettes. croquettes. MoNroEUFs MONTMontrouge egp eggs 1I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS Monhouge tartlet cases cases baked ROUGE the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in tartlet RoucE -- Arrange the (se PURÉE). garnished with PUREE). blind, and purée (see with Mushroom purie blind, and garnished SAUCE). SuprAme sauce (see SAUCE). Cover with Suprême (srr le en cocotte). oEuFs Montrouge plat or eggs II II (sur or en cocotte). OEUFS le plat Monhouge eggs pipe a and pipe dishes and MONTROUGE -- Butter Butter the the ovenproof dishes MoNTRoucE purée (see PURÉE) PUREE) through aa forcing border of Mushroom purie bag. Break in the eggs. Surround the yolks with fresh cream. Bake in the oven. lined with the eggs eggs into into aa cocotte cocotte lined break the . Alternatively, break yolks with (se PURÉE). Surround the the yolks purée (see Mushroom purie PUREE). Surround oven, in a bain-marie. fresh cream. cream. Cook in the oven, MoRNAY -Mornay eggs I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS oEtrFs MORNAY eggp 1 layer of dish on on aa layer Arrange eggs in in aa fireproof dish Arrange the cooked cookod eggs fried in in butter. butter. cro0tons fried Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) or on croûtons grated cheese and and Cover sauce. Sprinkle with grated with Mornay sauce. Cover with the oven. melted butter. Brown the top in the

plat Mornay Momay eggs eggs sur sur le plat

(mr le plat). OEUFS Break the the Mornay eggs 0tr (sur le plat). oeurs MORNAY MoRNAy -- Break Momay eggs (se Mornay sauce eggs with Mornay sauce (see dish lined lined with eggs into into an an ovenproof dish SAUCE). sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese SAUCE). Cover with the sauce. and and brown in in the oven. and melted butter, and r.,c, Eggs or poached). OEUFS oetns ÀA LA Eggs àt la la Nantua 1I (soft-boiled or NANTUA -- Arrange with Arrange the the cooked cooked eggs eggs in in tartlets tartlets filled fiUed with (see CRA Crayfish YFISH). Cover ragofit àd la ln Nantua (see tail ragoût CRAYFISH). Crayfish tai! with UCE). Top each with Nantua Nanttn sauce (see SA SAUCE). each egg with aa sliver of truffie. trufle. (mr le plat). OEUFS Eggs rl' NANTUA NlNru,l -- Fill Fill h Nantua 0tr (sur orurs ÀA LA EggF à n la aa buttered with crayfish tails. tails. Break in in the ovenproof dish dish with the buttered ovenproof 348 348

EGGS poached). onurs u Eggs lii la la royale royale (soft-boiled or or poachOO). OEUFS A À LA Eggs pastry cases on puff pastry cooked eggs eggs on cases the cooked - Arrange the filLed with with aa salpicon of trufres Iruffles blended with with concentrated filled (see SAUCE). Cover sauce (see COYer Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with with chicken with chicken Velouté pur6ed truffies with cream cream and diluted with puréed truffles dîluted and flavoured flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. oEUFs À .i Eggs Ili la (soft-boUed or poached). OEUFS la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert (soft-boiled Arrange the cooked eggs LA eggs in in aa pie pie dish LA SAINT-HUBERT sAINr-HUBERT -- Arrange on a layer of minced venison or any Coyer with any other game. Cover (see SAUCE). Garnish game Poivrade sauce with puff sauce (sec Garnish with game pastry crescents or heart-shaped heart-shaped cro0tons fried frjed in butter. (soft-boiled or poached). porched). OEUFS r'6coss.usp osurs A Scotch eggs À L'ÉCOSSAISEeggs 1 I (soft-boiled on puff pastry Arrange the pastry cro0tes croûtes covered Arrange the cooked cooked eggs eggs on Coyer with Shrimp sauce with Salmon purCe (see PURÉE). PUREE). Cover (see SAUCE). Decorate each egg with aa sliver of trufre. truffle. (colo. OEUFS Make a oELIFs A À r'6coss,llsu L'ÉCOSSAISE -- Make Scotcb eggs U tr (cold). Scotch eggs harn, 2 to 3 pounded forcemeat using finely minced cooked ham,2 and enough enough fresh fresh breadcrumbs breadcrumbs to anchovy to give anchovy fillets fillets and 'body'. and mixed spices. Sind Bind with salt, salt, pepper, and 'body'. Season mixed spices. Season with wÎth raw blend well. Shell hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and with raw egg and and blend coat each with the forcerneat. h.,',>r'If"'rllln1 forcemeat. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and deep-fry in hot fat. egp -- See See EGGS, Basic egg dishes. &rambled Scrambled eggs snouIt.r6s AÀ oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled J'américaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ài I'am6ricaine. scrambled eggs, eggs, diced diced bacon L'AM"ÉRICATNe -- Add to te the bacon r'.lMfnrc^clNr the scrambled grilled bacon and with rashers fried in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with rashers of grilled fried in halved grilled tomatoes. with sliced The same same name The name is is used used for for scrambled eggs with for these I'americaine. Recipes for lobster or lobster àtt l'americaine. lobster or spiny lobster Scrambled eggs à d I'armoricaine found under under Scrambled will be found dishes will (see below). A r'lNcreNNE BRouILLfs À &rambled eggs àI l'ancienne. L 'ANCIENNe I'ancienne. OEUFS oEUFs BROùlLLÉS Scrambled eggs -- Add mushrooms and diced truffles tossed in butter, to the diced trufres scrambled Arrange in a flan case baked blind. Garnish Garnish scrambled eggs. Arrange Veloutd sauce sauce (see with in sherry-flavoured Velouté with cocks' (see cocks' kidneys in cocks' combs combs àd la /a SAUCE) with cocks' with crearn. cream. Surround Surround with SAUCE) with (se SAUCE). VillerOÎ Villeroi and and sherry-flavoured sherry-flavoured Suprdme sauce (see Scrambled eggs Ift I'antiboise. oEUFs OElJFS nnouu,rfs BROUILLÉS A À Scrambled eggs L'ANTlBOISE L'ANTIBoIsE -- Arrange scrambled scrambled eggs in aa deep ovenproof saut6ed in in oil, with sliced sliced courgettes courgettes sautéed dish, oil, and dish, alternating alternating with with Toma 10 fondue fondUl! (see FONDUE). Finish with wÎth aa layer of Tomato grated Parmesan melted butter. Parmesan and and melted Sprinkle wÎth with grated eggs. butter. eggs. Sprînkle Brown in aa hot oyen. oven. ARGENTEUIL sRouII-rEs ARGIlNTEUIL orurs BROUILLÉS Scrambled Argenteuil. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Argenteiril. white asparagus asparagus tips, -- Gamish the scrambled with white scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the simmered in in butter. water and and then ha If cooked in then simmered half in salted salted water (sw SAUCE). Decorate with with Cre sauce (see Surround am sauce Surround with Cream crofftons fried croûtons fried in butter. snouLrfs AÀ I'arlesienne. oEUFs Scrambled OEUFS BROUILLF-S eg5 lii l'arlésienne, Scrambled eggs garlic-flavoured eggs with L'ARLÉSIENNE -- Scramble the eggs with garlic-flavoured L'ARL6$eNI.rE Scramble the courgettes in butter. FONDUE). Cook courgettes Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). pulp and mix the and rnix Halve rernove the the chopped pulp Halve them, remove the pulp Fill the halved with the scrambled halved courgette skins with scrambled eggs. FiJI and put them in aa buttered fireflrethe scrambled the scramblod egg mixture and grated Pannesan proof with grated Parmesan and proof dish. and melted melted dish. Sprinkle with (see with TomaLO Tomato sauce (see butter. the top. top. Surround Surround with butter. Brown the SAUCE). nnourrfs À.4, I'armoricaine. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS Scranbled eggs i l'armoricaine. &rambled L'ARMoRIcArrqE -- Arrange the scrambled eggs in a deep dish, L'ARMORICAINE of Lobster Lobs/er or or Sptny lobster lobs 1er àit alternating with with aa salpicon of r\T~ .. ·rr;n l'américaine Put slices of lobster or spiny l'amdricaine (see LOBSTER). sauce (see with Americut and surround American sauce surround wîth lobster on on the eggs and SAUCE). sAUCE). lux snounr6s AUX oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled Scrambled eggs with artichokes. OEUFS artichoke ARTIcHAUTFMix the scrambled eggs with cooked artichoke hearts, hearts, sliced or diced, and saut6ed in butter. butter. in butter. saut6ed in sliced artichoke artichoke hearts Garnish with with sliced hearts sautéed butter, Garnish

Eggs ài la provengale A ra provençale 1I (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS LA orurs À pRovENgALE-- Arrange Arrange each cooked egg on a halved tornato tomato

ROY ALE RoyALE

cooked in oil. oil. Cover clear, garlic-flavotrd Tomato Coyer with with c1ear, garlic-flavoured Tomalo (see FONDUE). with coarsely coarsely diced fondue (sec FONDUE). Garnish Garnish with fondue

aubergines fried aubergines fried in oil. oiL Sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. pRovENgALE (srr le plat). OEUFS provengale tr Eggs à i la provençale onurs.iÀ LA PROVENÇALE Eggs li (sor -- Rub individual individu al ovenproof dishes with garlic and line hne them thern with slices of aubergines fried in in oil. aubergines fried Break in the eggs and oiL Sreak bake (see oven. Pour ring of bake in in the the oyen. Provençale sauce Pour aa ring of Provengale sauce (see SAUCE), SA UCE), round the yolks. pRowNgALE Eggs àt la provengale ID m (fried). oEUFs A rl PROVENÇALE (friOO). OEUFS À LA Fry the eggs in oil and arrange each one on a halved tomato fried in oil. Garnish with slices of of aubergine, aubergine, fried in oil, and fried parsley. parsley. pnovsNqAlE -(fried). OEUFS provengale IV (friOO). Eggs ài la provençale oEr.rFs À A LA r.l PROVENÇALE Spread thinLy thinly sliced sliced aubergines, aubergines, fried fried În in oH, oil, on on aa dish. with halved tomatoes, seeded, and Alternate with tornatoes, pressed, seeded, fried and fried in oil. oil. Arrange friod eggs eggs on on this this layer, sprinkle with in Arrange fried layer, and and sprinkle sizzling butter butter to which 1I tablespoon chopped parsley mixed rnlxed sizzling chopped parsley with chopped chopped garlic has been added. jelly). onurs (glazed in Eggs àt la la provengale V Eggs V (glazed OEUFS A À LA in jelly). r,c, pRovENqALB - Coat the eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boiled or poached) with PROVENÇALE with tomato-flavoured, gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. tomato-l1avoured, gelatîne-strengthened mayonnaise. jelly. Arrange glaze with and glaze with jelly. Decorate with tarragon leaves leaves and each egg on a halved tomato, (Ornato, which has been seeded, steeped oil, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, in oil, pepper, stuffed with diced diced potatoes and aubergines, garlic-flavoured mayonaubergines, and dressed with garlic-flavoured and dressed and garnish with chopped naise. Arrange the eggs in a crown and garnish parsley. Rachel eggs (fried). OEUFS oEUFs RACHEL - Fry the eggs in butter. RAcHEL Trim with a round pastry-cutter, pastry-cutter, leaving only a thin band of

white. Arrange Arrange each egg on a slice of of bread fried in butter. Coyer Cover (see SAUCE). Top with with Marrow sauce sauce (sec slice of wilh a a thin thin slice with marfow. marrow. (soft-boiled or poached). OEUFS Eggs à t Ia reine 1 I (soft-boiled ontns A RErNE Eggs la reine À LA REINEArrange the cooked eggs in in tartlets tartlets filled with Chicken the cooked filled wHh purie (see PURÉE), (see PUREE), and coyer cover with with Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce (see

SAUCE). (srr le Eggs t la reine II II (sur le plat or la reine or en en cocotte). OEUFS orurs A Eggs À rl LA REINEButter the ovenproofegg REINE - Butter ovenproof egg dishes or cocolles cocottes and pipe aa border of Chicken purée (se PURÉE) Chicken purie PUREE) through a forcingbag. Break Break in in the the yolks with thick the eggs. Surround the chicken Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) with cream. Cook in the oyen. oven. (fried). oEUFs Eggs ài la la romaine (fried). A LA r-l ROMAINE RorvrlrNr -- Fry the OEUFS À eggs in oil. Toss chopped spinach in oil. Toss in Noisette Noiselle buller butter (se BUTTER, Compound Cornpoundbutters) bUllers) and mix with diced anchovies. Arrange the on top, with more more noiselle sprinkle with Arrange the eggs top, and and sprinkle eggs on noisette butter. huiler. Rossini I (soft-boiled or or poached). OEUFS oEUFs ROSSINI RossINI -Rossini eggs 1 Arrange saut6ed in Arrange each cooked egg on aa slice of foie gras gras sautéed în butter. in butter. Cover butter. Top with 2 slices of truffie truffle tossed in Coyer (se SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (sec with Madeira-flavoured Alternatively, arrange the eggs in puff pastry tartlets ]ined lined with coarsely dicdfoie gras. Garnish with slivers of truffies. trumes. (see Boil down aa Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Boil down SAUCE), add butter, and and pour over the eggs. UCE), add SA (srr le plat or en cocotte). Rossini tr (sur cocotte). OEUFS oEr.rFs ROSSINI Rossrm -Rossini eggs U Break eggs inlo into buttered or cocolles cocottes Break the eggs buttered ovenproof dishes or lined with salpicon of foie gras and trufres. in the gras and trumes. Bake in lined with aa salpicon oven. Surround with concentrated Madeira-tl.avoured Madeira-flavoured Demioyen. glace sauce (see SA UCE) with butter added. SAUCE) Rothomago eggs (wr le plat). oEUFS RorHoMAco Rothomago (sur le plat). OEUFS ROTHOMAGO -- Line the slices of ham tossed in in butter. ham tossed butter. the ovenproof dishes with with slîces Break in the eggs and and cook cook in in the usual way. Garnish with usual way. grilled chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. Surround Surround with with Tomalo Tomato sauce grilled SAUCE). (see SA UCE). 349 349

EGGS and bread bread cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround with conCOI')Surround with and

Velouti Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) basod based on fish tish stock and mixed

centrated veal stock. Scrambled eggp eggs i!li la Bercy. oEUFs OEUFS BRoInLus BROUILLÉS A À LA BERcY BERCY Scrambled the scrambled eggs in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with Arrange the chipolata. sausages, sausages, grilled grilled or cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Surround Surround chipolata Tomato sauce sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). with Tomato Scrambled eggs with clpes. cèpes. oEUFs OEUFS BRounrfs BROUILLÉS lux AUX cipss CÈPES Scrambled Sauté sliced cipes cèpes rn in butter butter or or oil. Add them them to the scrambled scrambled Saut6 eggs. Arrange Arrange in a a deep dish, with the the cipes cèpes in the middle. middle. eggs. Garnîsh with wilh crofftons croûtons fried fried in in butter. butter. Surround Surround with Garnish concentrated veal stock. Scrambled wlth chicken chîcken livers. li 'II ers. oEUFs OEUFS snoulrr6s BROUlUÉS lux AUX Scrambled eggs with DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Heap the the scrambled scrambied eggs heated FOlES DE eggs on a heated Fotns disb. Garnish Gamish with wilh sliced slîced chicken livers, livers, saut6ed sauteed in in butter dish. aod bound with with Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle and witb chopped parsley. parsley. with &rambled OEUFS nnoutufs BROUILLÉS cLAMART CLAMART eggs Clamart. oEUFs Scrambld eggs (see PEA). the eggs eggs with wilh Peas d à Ia la frangaise française (see PEA). Garnish Garnish Mix the with more peas. eggs with witll crayfish. crayfisll. OEUFS BROUILLÉS AUX oEUFs snout,rfs Scrambled eggs (see ÉCREVISSES - Prepare Prepare as as Scrambled eggs with shrimps shrimps (see eggs with fcnsvlssrs (se SAUCE). craynsh tails tads and SAUCE). and Nantua sauce (see below) using crayfish Scrambled egp'l'6chelle'. 'l'échelle'. onurs OEUFS BROUILLÉS 'L'ÉCHELLE' sRoulrr,fs'L'fcHELLE' Scrambled cheese. Butter an an earthenware Prepare scrambled eggs with chcese. line it with croû tons of crustless crustless bread bread fried fried in cro0tons dish and and line bu Her. Cover thick slîces truffles heated hea ted in in butter bu ner slices of truffies butter. Cover with thick and seasoned pepper. Put the eggs in the d/sh. dish. and pepper. and seasoned with salt and Smooth the surface and sprinkle with with grated cheese and surface and Brown the top. melted butter. Brown Scrambled l'espagnole I. OEUFS rnoutrrfs ÀA eggs à I'espagnole oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE -- FiU Fill halved, seeded seeded tomatoes, cooked in oil, L'EspAGNoH with scrambled and a sweet peppers. a salpicon of of sweet with scrambled eggs and Garnish with onioo fried in in oil. onion rings fried snourrEs ÀA Scrambled OEUFS orurs BROUILLÉS eggs il I'espagnole Scrambled eggs L'ESPAGNOLE - Garnish with diced scrambled eggs eggs with Garnish the scrambled L'EsIAGNoLE oil and mixed with aa salpicon of sweet cookod in oi! tomatoes cooked pimentos. Top with onion in oil. fried in onion rings fried rA. snoutrrfs À,i. LA Scrambled eggs il!n la forestibre. OEUFS oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs fried FORESntRE -- Garnish the scrambled eggs with morels fried the scrarnbled ronBsrGnr in lean bacon. diced lean bacon. Top chopped shallot shallot and and diced in butter with chopped with aa mound Demi-glace sauce Surround wilh with Demi-glace with morels. Surround mound of morels. (see SAUCE). (see wîth chopped chopped parsley. SAUCE). Sprinkle with cEoRcETTE Scrambled oEUFs snoutnfs GEORGETTE Scrambled eggs Georgette. OEUFS potatoes. Scoop out the pulp Bake out three-quarters of the Bake large potatoes. with Crayfish tail and Crayfish lail Garnish with fill with with scrambled scrambled egg. Garnish and fiU Nantua (see CRAYFISH). ragofrt àd la Nantua ...... lrllnlhIIPll1 eggs snounrfs AU lu ham or bacon. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs with harn or bacon. Scrambled (OU BACON) JAMBON, AU LARD MAIGRE BICON)-- Add 10 to the scrambled scrambled AULARD MATGRE (ou fried. Top eggs, and lightly lightly fried. ham or or bacon, bacon, blanched blanched and eggs, dîced dicod harn with slices of lightly fried ham or or rashers of bacon. fried harn rnoutrrfs MASSENET MASSENET -Scrambled Massenet. OEUFS oELtFs BROUILLÉS eggs Massenet. Scrambled eggs with diced artichoke hearts Gamish eggs with diced artichoke the scrambled scrambled eggs Garnish the garnish furlher further sautéed rn aa limbale timbale and and garnish Arrange in in butter. butter. Arrange saut6ed in grcs, slivers of truffie, with small trufle, and and asparagus small slices of/ole gras, tips. concentrated veal stock. tips. Surround with conceotrated (various). OEUFS Scrambled mushroom ('IIar:loos). oEUFs eggs witll with musMooms Scrambled eggs mushBROUILLÉS Add sliced sliced or or diced diced mushsnouIrrfs AUX Ar-ix CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNS -- Add pepper, rooms, and pepper. and seasoned with salt and rooms, sautéed saut6ed in in butter and 10 to the eggs. Surround mushrooms and and croûtons. cro0tons. Surround Garnish with sliced musbrooms with concentrated veal stock. concentrated vcal re Scrambled snourt.fs AA LA la Nantua. Nanfua. OEUFS oEuFs 8ROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs ài la with diced NANTUA scrambled eggs eggs wilh diced crayfish NANTUA -- Garnish the the scrambled ragofit àd la la tails with Crayfish Crayfish lail tail ragoût trufres. Decorate Decorate with tails and and tfllffies. Nantua truffies heated in in butter. Nantua and and sliced sliced trumes Scrambled normande. OEUFS snouI.rfs ÀA LA rl eggs lii la la normande. oEUFs BROUILLÉS Scrambled eggs NORMANDE scrambled eggs Arrange the scrambled eggs in in aa flan flan case case baked baked NoRMANDE -- Arrange garnished with with blind with shelled shelled mussels mussels bound bound with and gamÎshed blind and

with with cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with with oysters poached poached in in their their own liquid and and debearded, debearded, slivers of truffies truffies tossed tossed in in oil, oil, and

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Surround with SAUCE). shrîmps' tails in Shrimp sauce sauce (ser-, (see SA UCE). Surround wjth shrimps' crofftons croûtons fried in butter, and Normande Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). panetit!:re. oeuFs OEUFS nnounrfs p,lNsrIiRE PANETIÈRE Scrambled eggs panetilre. Scramble Scramble the eggs and add mushrooms mushrooms and diced ham harn fried in butter. Hollow out a round round loaf, like a croustade. Butter the the inside inside and and brown brown lightly lightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill FiU with wilh the scrambled eggs and sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese and melted butter. Brown the top. Scrambled eggs Pamentier. Parmentier. oturs OEUFS nnounrfs BROUILLÉS IARMENTIER PARM'Ef','TIER Scrambted Heap the the scrambled eggs eggs on a heated heated plate and and garnish gamish -- Heap with diced diced potatoes saut6ed sautéed in butter butter and and rollod rolled in in meat with jelly. jelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Es A &rambled eggs tà la la perigourdine. onurs OEUl'S nnotrtt,t BROU1LLÉS À r,c, LA Scrambled eggs pfntcounptxr as for Scrambled PÉRIGOURDINE - Prepare as Scrambled eggs Rossmf Rossini (see (see added to of foie gran gras and trufres truffles can be he added below). A salpicon of the scrambled eggs. Scrambled eggs with with potatoes. potatoes. oEuFs OEUFS BRouILLfs BROUlLLÉS Atx AUX Scrambled eggs poMMEs lt TERRE DE TERRE - Like Like Scrambled eggs eggs Parmentier. Parmentier. lt POMMES DE boiled in their skins, peeled, can also be made with potatoes boild saut6ed in butter. sliced, and sauteed butter. PRINcEssE -Scrambled eggs eggs princess. oEUFs OEUFS nRoulrrfs BROUILLÉS PRINCESSE Scrambled asparagus tips Garnish the the scrambled eggs with asparagus tips simmered simmered Garnish timbale or in aa flan case baked butter. Arrange Arrange in a timhale baked blind. in butter. Top with wilh chicken breast cut into julienne strips and and bound (see SAUCE), and with slivers slivers of of with Suprême sauce (see with Suprdme sauce Surround with suprAme truffles tossed in butter. Surround suprême sauce. truffies A LA L.l RE1NE nenm -eggp it ]a la reine. Scrambled reine. oErJFs OEUFS snoulrrEs BROU1LLÉS À Scrambled eggs case, alternating alternating in rows in aa vol-au-vent vol-au-vent case, Arrange the eggs in with Surround with with thick Ch/"cken Chicken purie (se PURÉE). PUREE). Surround (see SAUCE). Supr€me sauce (sec rA, snoullrfs ÀA LA eggs ià la oEUFs BROUILLÉS la romaine. romaine. OEUFS Scrambled eggs ROMAINE -- Scramble the eggs with grated Parmesan cheese. RoMAINE of leaf spinach cooked in butter Arrange butter and mixed Arrange on a bed bod ofleafspinach grated Parmesan Parmesan and with with anchovy anchovy fillets. tîllels. Sprinkle with with grated melted butter. Brown the top. RossINI -oEUFs BROUILLÉS snourrfs ROSS1Nl Scrambled Rossini. OEUFS Scrambled eggs Rossini. ffan case baked timbale or in aa flan Arrange the eggs in aa limhale baked blind. gras and with slices of of foie gras and slivers of truffies heated Garnish witb Madeira-flavoured with concentra concentrated in butter. Surround with ln butter. Surround ted Madeira-fla voured SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA Demi-glace UCE). sRoulrrfs SAGAN SAGAN-- Scramble oELtFs BROUILLÉS Scramble Scrambled eggs S€an. OEUFS Scrambled in aa limbale in aa flan flan case timbale or in the eggs with cheese. Arrange in the brains dredged dredged in in Garnish with escalopes of braÎns baked blind. Garnish with slivers slivers of truffies in butter, and with of Iruffies flour and and sautéed saut6ed in ftour butter, and with concentrated veal stock. butter. Surround wîth heated in butter. sAINTSaint-Hubert. OEUFS oEUFs snoulrrEs SAINTScrambled eggs Saint-Hubert. Scrambled the scrambled scrambled eggs with game pur6e HUBERT -- Garnish the HUBERT (see SAUCE), based on with Demi-glace sauce (sec bound with bound Demi-glace sauce concentrated game stock. spiny lobster lobster or with aa salpicon of lobster, lobster, spiny Scramblcd eggs with Scrambled DE HOMARD HoMAR"D nnounr6s AU AU SALPICON sALpIcoN DE other shellfish. OEUFS orurs BROUILLEs other (see (or LANGOUSTE Erc.) -- As As Seramhled Scrambled eggs with shrimps (see r,rNcousrr ETC.) (DE with the shellfish shellfish indicated. Serve with below) using aa salpicon of the (se SA the wine. Finish with the with white wine. SAUCE) Cream sauce (see UCE) wilh particular shellfish. shellfish. to the the particular butter appropriate to butter ltx snoutnfs AUX with shrimps. OEUFS oEUFS BROUILLÉS Scranbled eggs with peeled shrimps' tails, heated in in butter, butter, ta to cREvETTEs - Add peeled with aa mound mound of Garnish the top with of the top the scrambled scrambled eggs. eggs. Garnish the (see sauce (see tails heated heatd in in butter butter or or in n Sh/'imp Shrimp sauce shrimps' tails shrimps' with croûtons crottons fried fried in in butter. butter. Pour Pour aa SAUCE). Surround Surround with SAUCE). the eggs. ring of shrimp sauce sauce round the eggs. of shrimp lux TRUFFES-' TRUFFES oEUFS BROUILLÉS BRouuEs AUX Scrambled eggs with tnffl€s. OEUFS When manner. When in the usual manner. scrambled eggs eggs in the usual Prepare the scrambled Prepare the (Either diced and and tossed in butter. butter. (Either add the the trumes, truffies, diced tossed in cooked, add platter on aa warm platter or canned canned truffies can can be used.) Heap on fresh or

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EGGS and garnish cut to look garnish with with slices slices of of truffies truffies and crofitons croûtons cut look like

with tarragon veal stock. stock. Decorate Decorate with tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal

wolves'teeth. wolves' teeth. S6vign€ s6vrcr.6 -Sévigné eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or or poached). poached). oEUFs OEUFS SÉVIGNÉ Place each cooked egg on half Cover with half a braised lettuce. Coyer SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Top each egg with a sliver of truffie. truffie. Eggs with shrimps shrimps 1I (shirred). (shirred). oEUFS OEUFS AUX cREvErrss CREVETTES - Bake the dish with with I1 tablespoon the eggs in in a a buttered buttered ovenproof dish shrimp tails. ta ils. Surround Surround with Shrimp sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Eggs Eggs with shrimps shrimps tr II (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). onurs OEUFS nux AUX cREvETTESCREVETTES- Line Line tartlets, tartlets, baked baked blind, blind, with shrimps blended blended on this with Shrimp sauce (see (see SAUCE). Arrange the eggs on mixture and and cover coyer with the sauce. sauce. Eggs with shrimps sbrimps III ID (cold). oEUFs OEUFS Aux AUX cREvErrps CREVETTES - Coat dariole moulds with fish fish aspic jelly je//y (see (see ASPIC). Line Line the sides with shrimps' tails. Pour over liquid jelly jelly to sbt set them. them. Place each mould. Fill with jelly jelly and Place a a soft-boiled egg in each chill chili on ice. Unmould Unmould the the eggs eggs onto onto grilled grilled cro0tons croûtons spread spread with Shrimp butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Arrange Arrange bUller (see (see BUTTER, in a crown. Garnish Garnish with diced potatoes and shrimps' tails, ta ils. dressed with mayonnaise strengthened strengthened with gelatine. gelatine. Decorate the top of each each egg egg with with three shrimps' shrimps' tails arranged to look like a plume. Surround Surround the cro0tons croûtons with fish aspic aspic jelly. jelly.

leaves. leaves, blanched and well weil drained. eggs à soubis6e EgS t la also called eggs i la Eggs à la tripe, tripe, also la bechamd béchamel sou bisée (hard-boiled). m TRIPE, souBIs6E -(hard-boiJed). OEUFS À LA À u LA nEcrHMEL BÉCHAMEL SOUBISÉE onurs A rRrrr, A or thick slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into quarters quarters or thick round round slices. Cut hard-boiled eggs into

dish. Coyer Soubise sauce Arrange in in a a pie pie dish. with Soubise sauce (see Cover with Arrange SAUCE). SAUCE). Sieve hard-boiled Verdier eggs (stuffed). OEUFS hard-boiled orurs VERDIER -- Sieve foie gras. gras. Stuff Stuff the halves of egg yolks and mix with cooked cooked foie egg white with this mixture. mixture. layer of sliced onions cooked Arrange inaa gratin Arrange in gratin dish on a layer ofsliced in butter, blended with with I1 tablespoon Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see in SA UCE), and seasoned curry. SAUCE), seasoned with curry. with bichamel Coyer with béchamel sauce sauce mixed mixed with with a a julienne julienne of Cover oven. truffies. Sprinkle Parmesan. Brown in a hot oyen. Sprinkle with Parmesan. oEUFs vIcroRIA Victoria eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS VICTORIA Arrange the cooked eggs eggs in in puff pastry pastry cases lined lined with a of spiny lobster, or lobster, and truffies, bound with salpicon of salpicon slice of Victoria sauce each egg egg with a a slice sauce (see (see SAUCE). Top each lobster lobster and a slice of of truffie. truffie. la Villeroi ViUeroi (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or or poached). poached). osuFs OEUFS ;, À I-A. LA Eggs tà la eggs are used used for this this dish. Coat VILLEROI - Small cooked eggs vILLERoI with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and leave to get cold. cold. Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. Arrange in in a a crown. Garnish with fried parsley parsley and serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see (see Garnish SAUCE). SAUCE). Eggs Zingaru (soft-boiled Eggs tà b la Zingara (soft-boited or or poached). oeurs OEUFS A À ul LA - Arrange the cooked eggs on oval cro0tons croûtons fried ZINGARA in butter and and covered covered with a thin slice slice of lean ham. ham. Coat in with Zingara sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

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OMELETTE -- The etymology etymology of this word is uncertain. uncertain. It OMELETTE may corrvption of may have have been been derived derived from amelette, a a corruption from amelette, alemette, derived from alemelle aleme//e or alumette. alumette. alemette, The The name ovamellita ova me//ita was was used by by the Ancient Ancient Romans for honey and cooked in an earthenware earthenware dish. dish. eggs beaten with honey This derivation seems more logical. Recipes for sweet (dessert) omelettes omelettes will be found at the end of this section. The recipe for basic omelettes omelettes appears appears under EGGS, Basic Basic egg egg dishes. Filled omelettes. OMELETTES rouRn6ns FOURRÉES - Omelettes, Omelettes, before omelettes. oMELErrrs being being folded, folded, can can be be filled filled with with various various mixtures mixtures (forcemeat, meat, pur6e, purée, salpicon), salpicon), as as indicated indicated in individual individual recipes. The garnish garnish should should be be hot, hot, and and folded folded carefully into into the omelette. omelette. Flat omelettes. omelettes. oMELErrEs OMELETTES pLATES PLATES - These are cooked in butter or other other fat, and made made flat fiat like a thick pancake. pancake. Garnished OMELETTES cARNIES GARNIES - The garnish, garnish, Garnished omelettes. omelettes. oMELETTES as indicated be added added while while indicated in individual recipes, can either be the or put put in in the the omelette omelette when when the eggs eggs are are being being beaten, or folding folding it. it. In In addition addition to to the the inside inside filling, a a little of the garnish is usually usually put on top of of the omelette. omelette. Agnes Sorel omelette. ounrnrrn OMELETTE AGNis AGNÈS soREL SOREL - Fill Fi]] the omelette with sliced sautéed sliced mushrooms which have been saut6ed in with Chickm butter and and bound bound with Chicken purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). in butter Decorate the top with slices of pickled or smoked tongue. tongue. Boil down some sorne veal stock, add butter, and pour pour round the the omelette. eggs during during Omelette Albina -- Add diced truffies to the eggs the omelette in the usual way and and fill with beating. Cook the PURÉE). Pour Velouti Velouté sauce (see (see thick Chicken Chicken puree purée (see PUREE). cream round the omelette. omelette. SA UCE) mixed with cream SAUCE) l'alsacienne -- Cook the omelette in goose fat, Omelette ià I'alsacienne and fill with with braised. braised, well well drained drained sauerkraut. Cover Coyer the and and surround surround with DemiDemiomelette with thin slices of ham and glace sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Anchovy omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOIS - Rub Rub the Anchovy fiUets of desalted desalted anchovy through a sieve, and and add to the fillets

Snow Snow eggs eggs (Nrcolas) (Nicolas)

Snow eggs. oEUFS OEUFS A À r.r, LA Nucn NEIGE - Whisk Whisk egg whites and add sugar, as much much of the meringue sugar, as as for a a meringue. Take as mixture as which will give them an as I1 tablespoon will hold, which egg shape, and drop spoonful spoonful by spoonful spoonful into a saucepan of boiling milk sweetened with with sugar and and flavoured flavoured with vanilla. Poach the eggs, turning them so they cook evenly. evenly. When they sieve. they are firm, drain in a fine sieve. Use the the milk left to make Custard Custard cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Leave Leave to cool. cool. Arrange pour the the custard custard over over them. them. Arrange the the eggs in aa dish dish and pour Eggp soubise (hard-boiled). (hard-boUed). osuFs OEUFS DURS A À rA LA souBrsn SOUBISE Eggs ià la soubise Arrange hard-boiled eggs on Onion soubise (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Spanislt Spanish eggs -- See See Eggs Eggs d à I'espagnole. l'espagnole. Stanley OEUFS srANLEy STANLEY Stanley eggs eggs (soft-boiled (soft-boUed or poached). poached). oEUFs Arrange Arrange the cooked eggs in tartlet tarti et cases baked blind and and filled with Onion soubise (see with Curry (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer with Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Tarragon Tarragon eggs eggs (shirred). oruns OEUFS A À r'nsrRl,c,oN L'ESTRAGON - Break the eggs into a buttered ovenproof dish containing I1 tablebuttered ovenproof spoon tarragon-flavoured tarragon-fiavoured veal stock. Cook Cook until until the whites whites are set. Surround Surround with more more stock. Decorate Decorate with with blanched blanched tarragon. tarragon. Tarragon Tarragon eggg eggs, also called eggs eggs ià la Chartres (soft-boiled (soft-boited or poached). OEUFS A À r'nsrRacoN, L'ESTRAGON, A À LA cHARTRES CHARTRES -- Arrange Arrange poachèd). oEUFS the the cooked eggs on cro0tons croûtons fried in in butter. butter. Cover Coyer thern them with 351

EGGS beaten eggs. eggs. Cook Cook the the omelette omelette as as usual. usual. Cut Cut desalted beaten place on top. anchovy fillets into thin strips and place Omelette Andr6-Theuriet André-Theoriet -- Fill Fil! the omelette with morels à Ia la crhtne. crème. Serve Serve garnished garnished with with asparagus asparagus tips tips lightly lightly d cooked in butter, butter, and with slivers slivers of of trufle trume tossed tossed in the the same same cooked Surround with SuprAme Suprême sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). butter. Surround omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ARcHIDUc ARCHIDUC - Add chopped Archduke omelette. fried in in butter and and seasoned seasoned with will paprika, paprika, onion, lightly frid beaten eggs before cooking. cooking. Garnish Garnish with to the seasoned beaten slivers of truffie surround with trume heated heated in in butter, butter, and and surround with a slivers paprika sauce. sauce. Omelette Argenteuil Argenteuilomelette with white - Fill the cooked omelette put I1 or green asparagus tips lightly cooked in butter, and put Surround with Allemande tablespoon asparagus tips on top. Surround (se SAUCE). SAUCE). or Cream sauce (see sauce ot oMELETTE ALt( Articboke omelette. AUX ARTIcHAUTS ARTICHAUTS - Add Add to Artichoke omelette. OMELETTE eggs, when wh en beating, artichoke hearts hearts which have have been the eggs, saut6ed in sliced and half-cooked and sautéed in butter. butter. Cook. Cook. half-cooked then then sliced Serve with artichoke hearts. of the. Garnish with a a few few of the. artichoke hearts. Serve Garnish with stock wit_h concentrated veal veal stock with a little little butter butter added. concentrated oMELETTES ALrx Omelette asparagns tips. Omelette with with asparagus tips. OMELETIES AUX poINTEs POINTES diced asparagus D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES - Mix Mix diced asparagus tips, tips, which which have have been eggs. Garnish the cooked tossed in butter, into the beate,n beaten eggs. sprinkle with omelette with melted melted butter. omelette with asparagus tips and sprinkle oMELETTE Arrx Aubergine omelette. Allbergine omelette. OMELETTE AUX AUBERcmrs AUBERGrNES - Place and surslices of fried fried aubergine on on the the cooked cooked omelette and (se SA round with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce or TomalO UCE). oMELETTE AU BAcoN Bacoo BACON -- Add 4 tablespoons tablespoons Bacon omelette. omelette. OMELETTE (* cup) diced bacon, lightly fried friod in butter, (t butter, to the beaten egg. with thin thin rashers Garnish the the cooked omelette with Garnish rashers of cooked bacon. bacon. la Bércy Add chopped chopped fines to the B6rcy - Add Omelette à la fines herbes to grilled or cooked omelette with beaten egg. the cooked with grilled egg. Garnish Garnish the beaten sausages, and and surround surround with Tomato saut6ed chipolata chipolata sausages, sautéed Will Tomalo SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). la bigourdane bigourdane - Fil! Fill the the omelette with diced Omelette à la (see gras. Serve sauce (see Serve with Madeira sauce truffles foie gras. truffies and and diced foic sAUCE). SAUCE). A LA r,c, MOELLE MosrLE - FIat. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE À FiaI. Bone-marrow omelette. bone-marrow fat, cooked omelette omelette with slices of bone-marrow Garnish the cooked poached in salt water water and drained. Spoon aa little liquid meat jelly over each Marrow sauce each slice of marrow and and serve serve with Marrow jelly (see SAUCE). SAUCE). of bone-marrow bone-marrowfat Fill the omelette omelettewithasalpicon Fluffy. Fillthe with a salpicon of fat sauce. Garnish with with slices of marrow with marrow bound marrow sauce. bound with which have been poached in salted water and drained. Serve with marrow sauce. dicod boneFill the omelette omelette with diced boneOmelette ài la boucbère bouchbre-- FiJI Omelette jelly. Put poachod and Put and bound with liquid meat jelly. fat, poached marrow marrow fat, poached marrow marrow slices slices on on top, top, and and spoon spoon liquid row of poached aa row jelly over the the omelette. meat jelly small Brussels very small Omelette la bruxelloise bmxelloise - Cook Cook very Omelette à la done. in salted water until three-quarters three-quarters do sprouts ne. Drain, dry, sprouts in sprouts into into beaten beate,n eggs eggs before and fry in in butter. Stir the the sprouts and fry butter. Stir Surround with with concentrated concentrated veal making the omelette. omelette. Surround ma king the stock. Omelette àd la la Crécy. Cricy. Se Omelette Carroi Carrot omelette -- See Add sliced sliced lux CÈPES ctprs - Add oMELETTE AUX Omelette with with cèpes. cbpes. OMELETTE (which have been fried chopped frid inin butter or oil) and and chopped or oil) cèpes clpes (which parsley to omelette with with Top the the cooked cooked omelette parsley to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Top cèpes. cipes. sauteed chicken chicken Fill the the omelette omelette with sautéed chasseur -- FiU Omelelte Omelette cbasseur Garnish the the cooked cooked sliced mushrooms. Garnish livers mixed mixed with with sliced livers Serve will with Chasseur Chasseur same ingredients. ingredients. Serve omelette with the the same omelette with (se SAUCE) chopped parsley. and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped SAUCE) and sauce (see Fill the omelette with with braised the omelette Omelette à la h châtelaine cMtelaine -- Fil! veal stock. stock. concentrated veal chestnuts bound with concentrated and mashed chestnuts and (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Cream Cremn sauce (see Serve Serve with

Omelette with wlth chervil. chenil.

some sorne choppod chopped chervil, chervil, to the beaten beaten eggs. Chicken OMELETTE AUx AUX FoIEs FOIES DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE Chic ken liver live!' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE Fill the omelette with sliced chicken livers livers which which have have been

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sautEed briskly sautéed briskly in in butter butter and and bound bound with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (se(sc SAUCE). Top the cooked omelette serve with with will chicken chic ken livers, livers, as as above, above, and and serve with MadeiraMadeira(se SAUCE). SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Omelette Choisy - Fill Fil! the the omelette with with Chffinade Chiffonade of of with Cream sauce lettuce lelluce with wilh crearn cream (see LETTUCE). LETTUCE). Serve wilh (see SAUCE). with Peas Omelette Clamart - FiU Omelette Fill the the omelette omelette with Peas d à Ia la (see PEA) française (see PEA) keeping keeping the the mixture mixture rather rather thick. frangaise When serving, serving, put I1 tablespoon of the mixture mixture on top of of the omelette. cooked omelette. Curgette Courgette omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALIX AUX couRcnrrrs COURGETfES - Flat. FiaI. saute in butter. Cut Cut the the courgettes in in thin slices and and sauté butter. Beat the eggs with chopped parsley, parsley, season with salt and pepper, pepper, and pour over the marrows marrows in the pan. courgettes sautéed Flufy. saut6edin Fluffy. Fill the the omelette omelette with with the the diced courgettes in butter butter or oil and mixed with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. with22 tablespoons Omelette àt la Cr€cyCréey - Fill the omelette with (3 tablespoons) thick (s* PUREE). (3 thick Carrot CarrOI purie purée (sec PURÉE). Decorate the top with a a row of sliced carrots carrol~ cooked in butter. butter. Serve (see SAUCE). wth Cream Cremn sauce (see SAUCE). with cnoOroNs -- F/ar. Omelette with crofttons. croBtons. oMELETTE OMELETTE lux AUX CROÛTONS FiaI. Fry chopped parsley Fry diced bread in butter. Beat the eggs with with chopped parsley omelette as a pancake. cro0tons. Make over the croÎltons. and pour pour over Make the omelette pancake. Fluffy. Fry diced bread in butter butter and add to the eggs while while parsley. Make chopped parsley. them, together beating beating them, together with with chopped Make the omelette in the usual way. seasoned sliced mushrooms, fried Omelette Diane -- Add Add seasoned fried Fill the omelette omelette with a salpicon egg. Fill in butter, to to the beaten egg. winged game, and truffles, truffies, bound of partridge partridge or any other winged (se SAUCE) based Velouti sauce sauce (see with concentrated Velouté with concentrated based on (q.v.). Garnish the cooked game fumet (q.v.). cooked omelette with aa row gamefumet Demi-glace in butter. butter. Serve Serve with slices tossed of trufre of trume slices tossed in with Demi-glace (se SAUCE) based based on game stock. sauce (see Make aa flat oMELETTE DIPLOMATE DIrLoMATE - Make Diplomat omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Diplomat of lobster lobster and and layer of eggs. Co Cover omelette with with 33 eggs. ver with with aa layer (soe SAUCE) Bichamel sauce sauce (see with Béchamel trufre salpicon salpicon bound bound with truffle flavoured with lobster butter and brandy. f1avoured it omelette, keeping it Top this omelette omelette with another 3-egg omelette, Top (se SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured saace (sec Mornay sauce Cover with with Mornay creamy. Cover creamy. grated Parmesan and Parmesan and Sprinkle with with grated lobster butter. with lobster butter. Sprinkle with hot oven. in aa hot butter, and and brown in melted butter, meltcd in salted cauliflower flowerets Ihr Barry Barry -- Boil cauliflower Omelette Du flowerets in in the the eggs, fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Pour Pour in Drain, and and fry water. Drain, water. and with salt salt and chervil and and seasoned seasoned with beaten will with chopped chopped chervil beaten pepper. Make pancake omelette omelette and and serve serve with with Cream Make aa pancake pepper. (sw SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). with duxelles Fill the la duxelles duxelles - Fill the omelette with Omelette à la Omelette (q.v.) mixture to added. Serve Serve has been been added. diced harn ham has which diced (q.v.) to which (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-ghce sauce (see tomato-flavoured Demi-glace with tomato-flavoured eg$ 33 tablefermilre -- Add Add to the beaten eggs to the h fermière Omelette àI la (q.v.) of (scant cup) paysanne (q.v.) of vegetables cup) of of aa paysanne spoons (seant spoons lightly fried onions and celery, celery Iightly sliced carrots, on composod of sliced composed ions and pepper, and and chopped seasoned with with salt. salt, pepper, in butter butter and and seasoned in parsley. (3 tablespoons) lean harn ham lightly lightly tablespoons) diced diced lean tablespoons (3 Fry 22 tablespoons flat pour the make aa flat mixture over, over, and and make the egg egg mixture in butter, butter, pour in omelette. omelette. shredded Fill the the omelette with shredded Omelette à la la flamande -- Fill Omelette (U.S. Belgian in butter and and bound Belgian endive) endive) cooked cooked in chicory (U.S. chicory (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Crean sauce (see with cream. cream. Serve Serve with with Cream keeping itit Make aa creamy omelette, kecping Feydeur -- Make creamy omelette, Omelette Feydeau (se PURÉE). purie (see PUREE). Mushroom purée rather liquid. liquid. Fill Fill with with Mushroom rather

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oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU cERFEUIL CERFEUIL BULBEIx BULllEUX -

Add chopped turnip-rooted chervil, cooked in butter, and

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EGGS EGGS as AU HOMARD HoMARD -- Prepare Prepare as oMELETTE AU Lobster omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Lobster (see below), salpicon of of lobster lobster using aa salpicon omelette (see below), using Shrimp omelette Shrimp (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bound with with Lobster sauce sauce (see bound diced Add to beaten eggs eggs diced to the the beaten la lorraine lorraine -- Add Omelette àI la Omelette and shredded Gruyère Gruydre cheese, cheese, and saut6ed in lean bacon sautéed in butter, butter, shredded lean Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped spring spring onion. onion. Make chopped diced trufHes truffies with diced Beat the the eggs eggs with Forest -- Beat Omelette Louis Forest Omelette Louis one of of flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one in butter, and make make 22 fiat cooked cooked in butter, and gras sautéed cover saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and cover with slices slices of them them with of freshfoie gras tablespoon conconSpoon over over 1I tablespoon with with the second omelette. omelette. Spoon the second veal stock, stock, and and sprinkle sprinkle Madeira-flavoured veal centrated, centrated, Madeira-fiavoured (see BUTTER, butters). with BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with Noisette lfoisette butter butter (see finely Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs eggs finely Omelette la lyonnaise lyonnaise -- Add Onelette ài la parsley. choppod parsley. frid inin butter, and chopped chopped onions, lightly butter, and lightly fried chopped onions, few drops drops Make on the the omelette omelette aa few Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. Sprinkle Sprinkle on pour over pan, and Noisette ofvinegar same pan, and pour over itit Noisette heated in in the of vinegar heated the same (see BUTTER, butter butters). butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Omelette omelette with with aa salpicon salpicon of of Fill the the omelette Omelette Maintenon Maintenon -- Fill Veloutd sauce chicken, bound with with Velouté sauce chicken, truffies, and mushrooros, mushrooms, bound truffies, and (see SAUCE) omelette creamy creamy (see Keep the the omelette with cream. cream. Keep diluted with SAUCE) diluted (see SAUCE) SAUCE) when Bdchamel sauce sauce (see with Béchamel it. Cover Cover with when cooking cooking il. grated Pannesan melted with and melted Parmesan and with grated onion, sprinkle sprinkle with with onion, butter, oven. the oven. in the and brown brown in butter, and pieces of into Omelette of beef beef into left-over pieces Cut left-over la ménagère m6naglre -- Cut Omelette ài la quantity of dice of diced diced Add an an equal equal quantity butter. Add in butter. dice and and fry fry lightly lightly in on ion, also eggs with with chopped chopped Beat the the eggs in butter. butter. Beat onion, also cooked cooked in pepper, mix parsley, mix with with the the other other parsley, season salt and and pepper, season with with salt ingredients, flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat ingredients, and and make Omelette in oil. oil. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines in Mishal. Fry Fry diced diced aubergines Omelette Mistral. pinch tomatoes parsleyand and aa pinch chopped parsley add chopped lightly in in butter, butter, add tomatoes lightly of to Add this this mixture mixture to garlic, and mix with with the the aubergines. aubergines. Add and mix of garlic, the flat omelette. omelette. make aa fiat beaten eggs eggs and and make the beaten Omelette of salpicon of the omelette omelette with with aa salpicon Fill the Monselet -- Fill Omelette Monselet artichoke with slivers Garnish with slivers artichoke hearts hearts and la crème. crime. Garnish and truffies truffies àd la of with Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured of truffies in butter. Serve with trufres heated heated in butter. Serve Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette gratod horsehorsewith grated Beat the the eggs eggs with Onelette Montbry Montbry -- Beat radish, parsley, and seasoning. and seasoning. radish, chopped spring onions, onions, parsley, chopped spring Make salpicon of of celeriac celeriac one with Make 22 fiat with aasalpicon flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one bound (se SAUCE) and seasoned seasoned with with SAUCE) and Creun sauce sauce (see bound with with Cream paprika. light paprika. Cover Spoon light the second second omelette. omelette. Spoon Cover with with the Mornay grated (see SAUCE) with grated over them, them, sprinkle sprinkle with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over Parmesan grill or under the the grill or melted butter, and brown brown under Parmesan and and melted butter, and in hot oven. in aa hot oven. Omelette Add totothe Aux MORILLES MoRILLTS - - Add the oMELETTE AUX with morels. morels. OMELETTE Omelette witb eggs (while beating and sauteod inin butter, butter, and morels sautéed them) morels eggs (while beating them) chopped parsley. Make Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped parsley. Omelette Aux MORILLES MoRJLLES oMELETTE AUX crbme. OMELETTE Onelette with with morels moreb ài lala crème. ÀA LA morels àd laIa crème crime and and, with morels ta cRÈME cninrm -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with serve (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with Cream sauce with Cream Omelette yolks with tablespoons Mix 66egg egg yolks with 22tablespoons Omelette mousseline mousseline -- Mix (3 pepper. Add Add (3 tablespoons) with salt salt and and pepper. and season season with tablespoons) cream cream and the Make aa mixture.Make fold into into the themixture. the stiffiy whisked whites whitesand and fold stifry whisked fiat flat omelette. omelette. Mushroom Add cHAMPIGNoNS - - Add Aux CHAMPIGNONS omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Mu$room omelette. 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) saut6ed sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, sautéed tablespoons) sliced tablespoons (3 in and Make aa fiat flat omelette omeletteand eggs. Make in butter, the beaten beaten eggs. butter, toto the decorate slices. row of mushroom slices. of mushroom decorate with with aa row Omelette with Flat. Beat Beat the theeggs eggs with nanc6ienne -- Flat. Omelette ài lala nancéienne chopped ion lightly parsley. andchopped chopped parsley. lightly fried fried inin butter, butter, and chopped on onion Make pudding, lightly lightly slices of of black black pudding, Make 22 fiat Put slices flat omelettes. omelettes. Put fried second.Pour Pour withthe thesecond. omelette and and cover cover with frid inin butter, butter. on on1I omelette over sprinkle with with stock, and and sprinkle vealstock, over them them concentrated concentrated veal Noisette (see BUTTER, buners). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Noisette butter butter (see Fluffy. and onion and fried chopped choppedonion with lightly lightly fried Flufy. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with chopped pudding. pieces of parsley. Fill fried black black pudding. with pieces offried chopped parsley. Fill with Serve little butter butter has has whichaa!ittle vealstock stocktotowhich Serve with with boiled-down boiled-down veal been beenadded. added.

Omelette Feydeau Feydeau

Place aa row row of the cooked cooked omelette. omelette. eggs on on the Place of soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs (see SAUCE) Cover Mornay sauce with aa mixed with SAUCE) mixed sauce (see Cover with witth Mornay juliennc julienne of grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan and and of truffies. trufres. Sprinkle Sprinkle with brown the top. Omelettes aux Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, herbes -- Add fines herbes aux fines chopped or parsley, chervil, spring onion onion or and spring chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and chopped parsley, chives. There make herbs to to make of these these herbs enough of There should should be be enough chives. the omelette green. Omelette leaf with leaf Fill the the omelette omelette with la florentine florentine -- Fill Omelette ài la spinach cooked sauce light Mornay Mornay sauce with aa light cooked in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown with grated Sprinkle with quickly. quickly. Omelette à (3 tableforestilre -- Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablei lala forestière spoons) diced lean bacon, fried in butter, to the the beaten eggs. eggs. bacon, fried butter, to Fill the have been sauteed in in Fill the omelette with with morels morels which which have been sautéed butter, veal stock, stock, and and sprinkled sprinkled butter, bound bound with with concentrated veal with parsley. Serve has with veal veal stock stock to to which which has chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped been little butter. been added added aa little Omelette ài la gasconne -- Add eggs diced diced Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs la gasconne unsmoked ham, lightly fried frid inin butter, ham, thinly thinly sliced sliced onions onions lightly butter, chopped garlic and parsley. Make aa fiat flat omelette. omelette. chopped garlic and parsley. Omelette ài la grecEre -- Add Add to eggs chopped chopped to the la grecque the beaten beaten eggs onion pimentos. lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos. onion lightly Make layer of mutton hash hash Make 22 fiat flat omelettes, spreading aa layer of mutton omelettes, spreading between garlic-flavoard Tomato Tomato sauce sauce with garlic-fiavoured between them. them. Serve Serve with (see parsley and (see SAUCE) and SAUCE) and sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and sprinkle Noisette (see BUTTER, butters). Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compotmd butters). Ham As Bacon Bacon omelette, omelette, orr,rprsrrE AU Ham omelette. AU JAMBON JAMBoN -- As omelette. OMELETTE using using diced diced lean lean ham. ham. Omelette UX JETS DE HOUBLON HouBLoN AUx JETs DE with bop hop shoots. shoots. OMELETTE oMELETTE A Omelette with - FiU hop shoots shoots àd la la crème. crime. Serve Serve with witb Fill the the omelette omelette with with hop -Cream (see SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hungarian rrc. HONGROISE HoxcnoIm -- Fry oMELETTE ÀA LA Fry Hungarian omelette. omelette. OMELETTE diced ham lightly butter. Add Add an an equal equal in butter. diced unsmoked unsmoked lean lean ham lightly in quantity quantity of with fried in in butter. butter. Season Season with of diced diced onions, onions, also also fried paprika. paprika. Add eggs and and make make aa Add this to the the beaten beaten eggs mixture to this mixture fiat (see SAUCE). pancake. Serve Hungariut sauce SAUCE). flat pancake. sauce (see Serve with with Hungarian Japanese A LA u JAPONAISE rlpoNArsn -- Fill Fill the the oMELETTE À Japanese omelette. omelette. OMELETTE omelette in butter butter and and cooked in omelette with artichokes cooked with Chinese Chinese artichokes sprinkled (seo parsley. Serve with Cream Crearn sauce sauce (see sprinkled with chopped parsley. Serve with with chopped SAUCE). sAUCE). Omelette jardini&re -- Cook turnips, French French Cook carrots, carrots, turnips, Omelette à la }r jardinière beans, potatoes, etc. peas, potatoes, stock. Drain, Drain, and and fry fry etc. in in water water or or stock. beans, peas, lightly make aa fiat flat Add to beaten eggs eggs and and make lightly in in butter. to the the beaten butter. Add omelette. and caulicauliwith cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips and omelette. Garnish Garnish with fiower (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). serve with with Cream Creon sauce flower fiowerets, flowerets, and and serve Omelette jurassienne -- Add diced lean lean bacon, bacon, Add scalded, scalded, diced Omelette àI la la jurassienne ions to lightly to the the sprlng on onions lightly fried frid inin butter, and chopped chopped spring butter, and beaten rel which has been with sor sorrel which has been beaten eggs. Fill the the omelette omelette with eggs. Fill cooked in butter. cooked in butter. Kidney ALrx ROGNONS RocNoNs - Sauté Saut6 diced diced oMELETTE AUX Kidney omelette. omelette. OMELETTE calfs with MadeiraMadeirain butter and bind bind with calfs or or lamb's lamb's kidneys kidneys in butter and fiavoured, (se SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). flavoured, concentrated concentrated Demi-glace

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EGGS EGGS poundedparsley parsleyand togetherwith with pounded andchervil. chervil.Make Makea afiat together flat omelette. omelette. poroNArsn- Fill Polishomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA r,c,POLONAISE Polisb the - Fillthe omelette with withmutton muttonhash hashbound boundwith withDemi-glace Demi-glacesauce omelette sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE).Garnish Garnish with withTomato Tomatofondue (seeFONDUE). (see fondue (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with parsleyand withchopped choppodparsley andserve Sprinkle withTomato Tomatosauce servewith sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). (see ponrucxg - - Fill Porfirgueseomelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTEÀALA Portuguese r,l PORTUGAISE Fill theomelette omelettewith (seeFONDUE) with Tomato Tomatofondue the FONDUE)and andserve serve fondue(see (saSAUCE). withTomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Potato omelette omelette - - See Potato SeOmelette Omelette Parmentier. Parmentier. pRrNcEssE- Add Princess omelette. omelette. OMELETTE Princess oMELETTE PRINCESSE green - Add green asparagus tips tips cooked cooked inin butter asparagus buttertotothe the beaten beaten eggs. eggs.Garnish Garnish with truffie with trufre slices withSuprême slices heated heatedinin butter butterand andserve serve with SuprAme (seeSAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce provengale-- Cook Omelette ài lala provençale peeled, seeded, Omelette Cook peeled, seeded,and anddiced diced tomatoes in in butter tomatoes butter or oroil. oil.Season pepper and Season with with salt saltand and pepper andaa pinch of garlic. Beat pinch of garlic. poundedparsley theeggs parsley and Beat the eggs with with pounded and makeaa fiuffy make fluffy omelette, omelette, filling fillingititwith with the thetomato tomato mixture. mixture. Omelette ài laln romaine. Omelette romaine. Fry Fry chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightlyininbutter butter parsley. Make and and add add chopped chopped parsley. Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with leaf leaf spinach (see spinach cooked cooked inin Noisette Noisettebutter butter (see BUTTER) and BUTTER) and mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovyfillets. fillets. Cover with Coverwith the second second omelette. the omelette, (see SAUCE) Spoon Spoon Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over over the the omelettes, omelettes, grated Parmesan sprinkle sprinkle with Parmesan and with grated and melted meltod butter, butter, and and brown brown grill or under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot oven. oven. Omelette Omelette Rossini Rossini -- Add Add aa salpicon grasand salpicon of of foie and foie gras truffies trufles to to the the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Garnish Garnish the flat omelette the fiat omelette with with slices gras and slices offoie oflore gras and slivers of truffies. with Madeiraslivers of trufres. Serve Servewith Madeirafiavoured (see SAUCE). flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Omelette ài la ls rouennaise rouennaise -- Fil! Fill the the omelette omelette with with duck duck liver pur6e. Serve liver purée. Serve with with red red wine, wine, boiled boiled down down and and blended blended jelly and with with meat meat jelly and butter. butter. Omelette Omelette ài la la royale royale -- Make Make aa small small omelette omelette using using eggs eggs mixed mixed with with truffie pur6e and truffie purée fill itit with and fill with aa ragoût ragofrt of of cock'scock'scombs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and truffies, trufres, bound bound with with Velouté Velouti sauce sauce mixed mixed with with cream. cream. Make Make aa second, second, larger larger omelette omelette with with eggs eggs mixed mixed with with fresh fresh cream cream and and seasoned seasoned with pepper. Fold with salt salt and and pepper. Fold itit over over the the smaller smaller omelette omelette and and garnish with garnish with small small slices gras and slices of of foie and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufres. /ore gras Serve Serve with port-flavoured Suprême with port-fiavoured (see SAUCE). SuprAme sauce SAUCE). sauce (see Omelette la Saint-Flour Omelette àt la Saint-Ftour -- Add Add to to the the eggs, eggs, while while beating beating them, them, chopped chopped onions onions and and scalded, scalded, diced diced bacon, bacon, both both lightly fried frid inin lard. lard. Make Make 22 fiat flat omelettes. omelettes. Spread Spread one with one with aa layer ofbraised, of braised, mashed cabbage cabbage and and cover cover with with the the second second omelette. omelette. Serve Serve with (ser-, SAUCE). with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Omelette Onelette ài la ta Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with aa purée puree of game-meat bound of game-meat bound with with thick Demi-glace sauce thick Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated game game stock. stock. Garnish Garnish with sliced mushrooms lightly fried frid inin butter butter and and serve serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Omelette Omelette witb with salsify salsify and ad Brussels Bnsseb sprouts, sprouts, caUed called ài la la maraicbère. maralchlre. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX ALtx SALSIFIS sALsIFIs ET ET AUX Atx CHOUX cHottx DE DE BR UXELLES, DITE BRTxELLES, nrrs ÀA LA r-l MARAîCHÈRE umdcsitnr -- Slice Slice salsify, salsify, cook cook in in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, cut cvt into into dice, dice, toss toss in in butter, butter, and and bind bind with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce. sauce. Fill Fill aa fiuffy fluS omelette omelette with with this this and and garnish with with small small potatoes and and Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6od in in butter. Serve with concentrated butter. Serve with concentrated Demi-glace (see Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to to which which butter butter has has been been added. added. Omelette de (accordiry to Omelette de Savarin Savarin (according to Frédéric) Fred6ric) -- Philéas Phil6as Gilbert relates relates that that Fr6d6ric, Frédéric, chef chef de Gilbert de cuisine cuisitu to to an an archbishop, archbishop, many discussions discussions with with the the directew directeur de had many de la la table, table, about about Frédéric's Lenten Lenten mortification mortification dish Fr6d6ric's dish which which was was an' an omelette omelette filled with with soft soft roes roes and and tunny tunny fish. fish. filled The roes roes were were cut cut into into thin thin slices slices and and cooked cooked àit la meunière. The lameuniire. The tunny tunny was was dried dried in in a a cloth, cio th, cut cut into into a a coarse The coarse salpicon, salpicon, seasoned, and and simmered simmered in butter. The The eggs eggs were beaten seasoned, in butter. were beaten

Cheese mousseline mousseline omelette omelette Cheese

Omelette ài la Ia Nantua Nantua -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with crayfish crayfish tails tails Omelette bound with (se SAUCE). with Nantua Nantua sauce sattce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with bound crayfish tails tails and and slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Serve Serve with with the the sauce. sauce. crayfish Omelette àI la ln niçoise nigoise -* Mix Mix the the eggs eggs with with Tomato Tomato fondue Omelette fondue (see FONDUE), FONDUE), chopped parsley, and chopped parsley, pinch of garlic. and aa pinch of garlic. (see Make aa fiat flat omelette omelette and garnish with and garnish with anchovies anchovies arranged arranged in in Make pattern. Sprinkle criss-cross pattern. (see Sprinkle with with Noisette Norsette butter butter (see aa criss-cross BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). but ters). BUTTER, la normande -- Fill Fill the the omelette omelette with with aa ragoût ragofit Omelette ài la of shrimps' shrimps' ta tails and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with vith Normande Normande of ils and (set', SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with with debearded debearded oysters oysters sauce poached in in their their own own liquid, liquid, and and slivers slivers of of truffies. trufles. Serve Serve poached with normande sauce. with Okra omelette omelette ài la h créole. cr€ole. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX Arrx GOMBOS c,oMB6 ÀA LA LA Okra cn6or-u -- Add Add to the eggs, while beating them, them, diced diced on CRÉOLE ions, onions, peeled and and diced diced sweet sweet pimentos -- both both of of which peeled which have have been been in butter -- and parsley. Fill and chopped chopped parsley. Fill the cooked in the omelette omelette with okra cooked cookod in in butter and and mixed mixed with with Tomato Tomato fondue with fondue (see FONDUE) fiavoured flavoured with aa pinch of garlic. Serve (see FONDUE) Serve with with (see Tomato sauce SAUCE). Tomato (see Omelette à i la parisiennechoppod onion and chopped Omelette parisienne - Add chopped chopped mushrooms, saut6ed in in butter, butter, to to the mushrooms, both both sautéed the beaten beaten eggs. Cover the cooked omelette with chipolata chipolata sausages cooked in concentratod veal in butter or grilled. Serve with concentrated veal stock stock to which a little little butter has been added. Omelette Omelette Parmenticr Parmentier -- Fry Fry diced potatoes, cooked diced potatoes, cooked or raw, in butter and add chopped parsley. Mix them with the beaten beaten eggs eggs for aa flat fiat omelette or use use them them to to fi.!l fill aa fiuffy fluffy omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette Ià la paysanne paysanne -- Add to the beaten bea ten eggs chopped sorrel sorrel and and sliced sliced potatoes, potatoes, both both lightly lightly fried fried in in butter,

Omelette dà la la nanc6ienne nancéienne Omelette

354 3s4

EGGS EGGS Swiss Swiss omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À m LA surss SUISSE - Add Add Emmenthal Emmenthal to to the beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Make Make aa flat flat omelette. omelette. Omelette Omelette Ià la Talleyrad Talleyrand - Add Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs, eggs, diced diced of and seasoned seasoned with onions lightly lightly fried in in butter butter and with aa pinch pinch of

rd .Id mixed mixed with with thick thick cream. cream. The The tunny tunny and and roes roes were were mixed

rn fi a a shrimp shrimp sauce sauce and and seasoned. seasoned. The omelette omelette was was filled

cheese cheese and cream

with this this sauce sauce and and garnished garnished with with slices of of truffie truffle or or circled with with with fried fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. Omelette ià la savoyarde savoyarde - Fry Fry sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and add the the Omelette beaten eggs, eggs, mixed mixed with with shredded shredded Gruydre Gruyère to the pan. pan. Make beate,n flat omelette. omelette. a flat Sea-food omeleffe. omelette. oMELETTts OMELETfE Atx AUX FRUITS FRUITS DE MER - Beat Sea-food eggs with with chopped parsley parsley and chervil, chervil, season with salt the eggs make 2 flat omelettes. omelettes. and pepper, and make with a ragofrt ragoût of of mussels, mussels, shrimps, cockles, cockles, and Cover one with other shellfish, shellfish, bound with Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Top other with the the second second omelette, omelette, and and pour pour Creon Cream sauce sauce (see (see with SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Shrimp Shrimp butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, SAUCE) grill or in a Glaze under the grill Compound butters) over them. G1aze Compound oven. hot oven. cRrvETTEs -- Fill Shrimp omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE AI-rx AUX CREVETTES Fill the Shrimp with Shrimp sltrimps' tails omelette with with peeled peeled shrimps' tails bound bound with omelette sauce (se (see SAUCE). Serve Serve with witb the same sauce. sauce omelette. oMELETTts OMELETTE A À t'osstr,lE L'OSEILLE -- Add to the beaten Sorrel omelette. (* cup) sorrel shredded chifonade shredded into a chiffonade eggs, 4 tablespoons (t and lightly lightly fried in butter. Make a flat omelette. omelette. Add to to the t'esplcNou -- Add omelette. OMELETTE À L'ESPAGNOLE oMELETTE A Spanish omelette. or shredded shredded into beaten eggs, pimentos, diced diced or sweet pimentos, beaten eggs, sweet parsley, and julimne and a julienne strips and cooked in butter, chopped parsley, butter, chopped pinch of garlic. garlic. Make fiat omelette. Make a flat omelette. Spinach fpn*lnos -- Sweat Sweat leaf lux ÉPINARDS oMELETTE AUX Spinach omelette. omelette. OMELETTE spinach eggs. Make aa flat and mix with the beaten eggs. spinach in butter and omelette. (crawfish omelette). OMELETTE rA, Spiny lobster omelette (crawfisb otvrstsrrE ÀA LA LANGOUSTE of using aa salpicon of Make as as Shrimp omelette, omelette, using rixcousre -- Make spiny lobster bound flavoured with with Spiny Spdny sauce flavoured with aa sauce spiny lobster bound with lobster butter (see BUTTER, butters). BUTTER, Compound butters). Add Spring onion A LA r-l CIBOULETTE ctsouLETTE -- Add oMELETTE À omelette. OMELETfE onim omelette. make aa flat flat chopped spring and make eggs and to the the beaten beaten eggs spring onions onions to omelette. omelette. Fill Sweetcom A LA Lq' CRÈME cRiil,fi -- Fill MAis À oMELETTE AU AU MAïs omelette. OMELETTE Sweetcorn omelette. (see CORN) serve the omelette and serve in cream CORN) and corn in crearn (see with Fresh corn omelette with (see SAUCE). with SAUCE). Cream sauce sauce (see wfih Cream Sweet Doux -Atlx PIMENTS PIMENTS DOUX pimento omelette. oMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet pimento Add sweet pimentos shredded sweet coarsely shredded Add to to the the beaten beaten egg egg coarsely (green, in (green, yellow yellow or Fry the the flat flat omelette omelette in in oil. oil. Fry red) cooked cooked in or red) oil. oil. Sweet as PATATES- Prepare Prepare as potato omelette. Aux PATATESoMELETTE AUX omelette. OMELETfE Sweet potato Omelette potatoes fried in butter. fried in butter. sweet potatoes using sweet Parmentier using Omelette Parmentier

slices curry powder. powder. Make Make a flat flat omelette omelette and and garnish garnish with with slices and of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dipped in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce, saut6ed sautéed in butter. Serve with with Creon Cream sauce. like roMATEs -- Prepare Tomato omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETfE AUx AUX TOMATES Prepare Iike garlic seasoning. seasoning. omit the but omit Omelette Omelette h àh la provengale provençale but the garlic Add to to the Tmffie omelette. Truflle omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(x AUX TRUFFEs TRUFFES -- Add the Garnish diced truffies lightly beaten eggs, eggs, diced lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Garnish Serve in butter. butter. Serve tossed in the flat omelette omelette with slivers of truffie tossed Madeira (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with with Madeira and trufle truffle essence. lu (Brillat-Savarin's recipe). recipe). OMELETTE olmlurrn AU Tunny omelette (Brillat-Savarin's Tunny omelette salted slightly salted roes in in slightly soft carps' roes blanch soft THoN THON -- Wash and blanch up finely. Chop Chop up Drain and chop finely. boiling water for 5 minutes. Drain with aa small, small, together with the roes, roes, together add to the aa piece piece of tunny and add in best best butter, butter, mixture in the mixture Saut6 the shallot. Sauté finely chopped shallot. finely chopped well. blending weil. parsley and chopped and chopped with parsley Heat aa second piece of butter with Heat dish warmed dish mixture onto onto aa warmed Pour this this mixture onions. Pour spring onions. spring juice, and and lemon juice, sprinkle with with lemon the omelette, omelette, sprinkle for the intended intended for tunny roe and and tunny the roe and add add the eggs and 12 fresh fresh eggs Beat 12 keep warm. warm. Beat keep and transfer omelette and long, thick thick omelette Make aa long, mixture to to them. them. Make mixture recipe isis also also This recipe very hot. hot. This dish. Serve Serve very to the the prepared dish. itit to dt curé. curd. called Omelette du called plNlcg6n -_ Beat Beat 33 6MELETTE PANACHÉE omelette. OMELETTE Two-colqrred omelette. Two-coloured pulp, and an make an puree or and make tomato pulp, or tomato spinach purée eggs with thick spinach semi-liquid. interior semi-Iiquid. keeping the the interior omelette, keeping omelette, put folding, put When folding, eggs. When using 66 eggs. omelette, using Make another another omelette, Make lAhirc, Brown, Brown, wjfih White, it. Sur Surround inside it. omelette inside the smaller smaller omelette the round with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see or Tomato or egg aa to the the beaten beaten egg Add to la verdurière verduriire -- Add Omelette àI la Omelette chopped in butter, butter, chopped tossod in lettuce tossed sorrel and and lettuce of sorrel chffinade of chiffonade and flat omelette omelette and Make aa flat parsley, chervil, tarragon. Make and tarragon. chervil, and parsley, (see BUTTER). BUTTER). butter (see Noisette butter sprinkle with with Noisette sprinkle hearts in in courtcourtartichoke hearts diced artichoke Cook 22 diced vivcur -- Cook Omelette viveur Omelette Remove butter. Remove in clarified clarified butter. fry briskly briskly in draiq and and fry bouillon, drain, bouillon, diced, blanched, diced, tablespoons blanched, pan and fry 22 tablespoons and fry the pan from the from Drain. same butter. butter. Drain. celeriac in in the the same celeriac salt and and with salt seasoned with (3 oz.) beef seasoned g. (3 fillet of of beef oz.) diced diced fiUet Fry 75 75 g. Fry celeriac and celeriac artichokes and Put the the artichokes paprika, in the same same butter. butter. Put in the paprika, chopped eggs with with chopped pan and the eggs Beat the mix. Beat and mix. the pan into the back back into pan with other with the the other pour into the pan into the parsley and and pour and chervil chervil and parsley flat omelette. omelette. Make aa flat ingredients. ingredients. Make D'ENTRE(DESSERT) OMELETTES. otvtsl"srrEs D'ENTREOMELETTES. OMELETTES SWEET SWEET (DESSERT) METSMETS _ filled omelettes, fiIled Three sm small la Célestine C6lestine -- Three Omelette ail omelettes, Omelette àI la with dish, sprinkled sprinkled with row on on aa dish, in aa row arranged in with apricot jam, arranged with apricotjam, glazed in hot oven. oven. in aa hot sugar and and glazed fine sugar fine finely sugar, finely eggs with with sugar, Beat the the eggs la dijoonaise dijonnaise -- Beat Omelette Omelette ài la flat Make 22 flat cream. Make and double double cream. macaroens, and crushed crushed macaroQns, pastry French pastry layer of of French thick layer one with with aa thick Spread One omelettes. omelettes. Spread ground almonds and almonds and (see CREAM) mixed with with ground cream crecon (see CREAM) mixed jam, and second with the the second and cover cover with blackcurrant jam, flavoured flavoured with with blackcurrant sides.Sprinkle Sprinkle and sides. the top top and on the meringue on Spoon meringue omelette. omelette. Spoon with andserve serve with glaze in hot oven, oven, and n aavery very hot with sugar,glaze with icing icing sugar, jam. blackcurrant blackcurrant jam. r-4, FRANGIPANE TnnNcIPANE - oMBLETTESÀA LA Frangipane omelettes. OMELETfES Frangipane omelettes. (scantti cup) sugar,22 finesugar, cup) fine with 33tablespoons tablespoons (seant Beat Beat 10 l0 eggs eggs with dl. (6(6 and 1I dl. melted butter, butter, and tablespoons tablespoons) melted tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) pinchof salt' ofsalt. Add aasmall small pinch cup)cream. cream.Add tablespoons, scant 1-I cup) tablespoons, seant put them themon on cooked, put When cooked, Make 0 small flatomelettes. omelettes. When Make ]l0 small flat of Frangipane Frangipane layet of with aa layer aa baking each with spread each sheet, spread baking sheet, sprinklewith with (seeCREAM), ends,sprinkle off the the ends, cut off fold,eut cream CREAM), fold, uecrrn (see oven. glaze in very hot hotoven. inaavery fine finesugar, sugar,and andglaze

Tomato Tomato omelette omeletteand andbacon bacon

355 355

EGGS EGGS

Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette or or Baked Baked Alaska Alaska (Ro6ert (Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

356

EGYPT EGYPT on on itit through Ihrough aa forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with with very very fine fine sugar sugar

Jam omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A(rx AUX coNFlruRns CONFITURES -- Prepare Prepare like like Jam Jam and and fruit fruit omelelte omelelle (see (see below) below) replacing replacing the the fruit fruit by by Jam thick jam. jam. thick Jam and and fruit fruit omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À r,l LA coNT,ITURE CONFITURE ET ET AUx AUX Jam FRUlTS -- Beat Beat the the eggs with with fine fine sugar, adding adding a pinch of of FRUITS salt. Cook in butter butter in the the usual usual way. way. When When folding the the salt. 611 with with the the desired desired fruit which which is is usually usually cooked cooked omelette, fill en compote compote in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured syrup, drained, draÎned, bound bound with with en jam suitable suitable for for the the fruit, fruit, and flavoured with with liqueur. liqueur. a jam Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and glaze glaze under under the the grill or in in aa hot hot Sprinkle Oyen. oven. Liqueur omelette omelette flanbee. tlambée. oMELETTE OMELETTE Aux AUX LIeuEuRs L1Ql.Jl::URS Liqueur FLAMBÉE -- Rum Rum omelette omelette is is the the most common of these these rrlrusfr omelettes. Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with with fine fine sugar, sugar, add add a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, omelettes. cook the the omelette omelette in in butter, butter, keeprng keeping itit semi-liquid semi-liquid inside. înside. and cook Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar sugar and pour pour warmed rum mm over over it. il. Set it il Sprinkle when serving. serving. alight when Armagnac, Calvados, Cognac, whisky, kirsch and and other Armagnac, from various varÎous fruits fruits can be used spirits and liqueurs made from of rum. instead of omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE A À Lt lA NoRMANDE NORMANDE Normandy apple omelette. Beat 10 10 eggs eggs with sugar and and fresh fresh cream. Peel Peel and and cut 33 Beat apples into slices. Cook the the apples apples in butter and cooking apples tahlespoons (} cup) fresh fresh sugar. Add Add 4 tablespoons vanilla-flavoured sugar. (3 tabledouble cream, cream, and and flavour t'lavour with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 double Make the omelette omelette and fill with the apple spoons) Calvados. Make mixture. Glaze under the grill and serve with double cream. (U.S. Bakd A omelette (U.S. Baked Alaska). Alaska). oMernrrr OMELETTE À Norwegian omelette LA NonvfcIENNE NORVÉGIENNE - The invention of of the r,c, The invention the omelette omelette àd la Ia American-born physicist, norvegienne is is attributed to ta an an AmerÎcan-hom norvigienne Benjamin Thompson. But Baron Baron Brisse, Brisse, writing in in 1866, Benjamin Thompson. But states that a French chef learnl the secret of ice being ofice cheflearnt being baked Paris with ln the oven from a Chinese colleague who came to Paris in MissÎon. He describes the delicate delicale operation: a Chinese Mission. very light it in 'Chili the ice ice cream untiJ hard, hard, wrap it in a a very 'Chill the cream until pastry crust and put in a hot oyen. oven. The The pastry paslry is baked before the poor the ice can mel!. melt. This phenomenon is explained by the can thus Gourmets can substances. Gourmets of cenain certain substances. conductibility of of biting through pipinggive themselves the double pleasure ofbiting palate on on contact contact with the ice hot crust, hot crust, and and cooJing cooling the palate cream.' cm. C!put aa piece of cake 2 cm. of Genoa Genoa cake Alternatively, PUI @ inch) and put with liqueur and thick thick on on an an ovenproof dish, sprinkle with the entire cake with a layer of top. Enclose the the ice cream creirm on top. in aa very hot Bake in sugar. Bake icing sugar. meringue and and sprinkle with icing oven meringue quickly becomes golden brown, so that that the the'meringue oven so penetrate through to the to penetrale but not long enough enougb for the heat to but Dot ice cream. LA pineapple. OMELETTE oMnrerrr ÀA LA with pineapple. Norwegian Norwegian omelette omelette whh in the as described described in NORVÉ'.GIENNE Proceed as NonvfcrcNNe ÀA L'ANANAS r'lNlNls -- Proceed cream and ice cream preceding recipe, using filling pineapple ice as aa filliog using as pineapple cooked in syrup. fine sugar, sugar, with fine the eggs wilh 'U'llll"''':no:: PedauEre -- Beat the Omelette Reine Pédauque ground almonds. flat omelettes. omelettes. almonds. Make 2 fiat fresh and grollnd fresh cream, cream, and puree mixed mixd with Spread layer of of apple apple purée thick layer Spread one one with with aa thick Put the the second kirsch. Put fresh flavoured with with kirsch. and ftavoured cream and fresh cream of meringue. meringue. whole with aa layer of omelette cover the whole and coyer omelette on on top and put in until very bot hot oyen oven until in aa very Sprinkle sugar and and put with icing icing sugar Sprinkle with golden brown, has set. set. the meringue brown, and and has meringue isis golden (9 oz., g. (9 oz., 250 g. Blend 250 sotnrrfo -- Blcnd Soufflé oMELETTE SOUfFLÉE omelette. OMELETIE Soufl6 omelette. generous cup) yolks with vanilla with vaniJla egg yolks cup) fine fine sugar sugar and and 66 egg grated lemon Mix unlil until the the flavouring or rind. Mix n"'J"",""""fY lemon or or orange orange rind. or grated mixture turns white and forms forms aa ribbon. white and gently fold gently into aa very very stitf stiff froth froth and and rold Whisk egg whites whites inlo Whisk 88 egg mixture. Butler Butter an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish and and into into the the above above mixture. mixture fine sugar. pour Pour in in the the omelette omelette mixture sprinkle itit with with fine (having reserved and smooth smooth itit with with the the blade blade of of aa reserved aa little) and piping the the reserved reserved mixture mixture knife. Decorate the the omelette omelette by by piping

and in aa hot hot oven. oyen. and bake bake in Strawberry StrawbelT)' omelette. omelette. oMELETTE OMELETTE ALrx AUX FRAISES FRAISES -- Make Make an an omelette omelette with with eggs beaten beaten with with sugar, aa pinch pinch of salt, and and aa little little cream. cream. Steep strawberries strawberries in in rum, or kirsch, and sugar, and fold fold them them into into the tbe omelette. omelelle. Sprinkle with fine

sugar sugar and and glaze glaze under under the the grill. grill. Surround with crushed strawberries strawberries sprinkled sprinkled with wÎth sugar sugar and and flavoured with

liqueur. Omelette ........A"' ..:no:: with with zugar. sugar. oMELETTE OMELETTE AU AU sucRr SUCRE - Beat Beat the the eggs eggs with wilh sugar and a small pinch pineh of salt. Flavour Flavour the the omelette with with grated grated orange, orange, lemon lemon or tangerine tangerine rind, rind, sprinkle sprinkle with glaze the fine fine sugar, and glaze the omelette under under the tbe grill. grill.

FISHES' EGGS. oEUFs OEUFS DE DE polssoNs POISSONS -- Eggs Eggs of certain certain kinds kinds FISHES' EGGS. of of fish fish are are used used for for food. food. The The most mos! highly highly esteemed esteemcd are are those those of the sturgeon and and sterlet, which which are used used for preparing preparing caviare. Other Other edible fishes' fishes' eggs include include those of the shad, of which the Americans Americans are very fond, and those those of fresh or pickled herring herring which are delicate in taste. The eggs of various various shellfish are also edible. edible.

REPTILES' REPTILES' EGGS, EGGS. TURTLE TURTLE EGGS. EGGS.

OEUFS OEUFS DE DE REPTILE, REPTILE, onuFs DE ToRruE TORTUE - Reptiles' Reptiles' eggs eggs are are very little liUle used used in OEUFS DE European European cookery. They are, are, however, howevcr, much prized by the Arabs and and the the Indians who who are are particularly particularly fond fond of of the calnnan's cayman's eggs. Turtle eggs are mainly rnainly used for soup.

a

SCE AUBERGINE. EGGPLANT EGGPLANT -- See

glass utensil of two Small glass EGG'TIMER. EGG-Tl MER. sABrtnR. SABLIER -- SmaU utensil made of bulbous bulbous glass containers narrowing narrowing in the the middle, where where they small opening. One of the communicate by means of of a very 5mall containers has a fixed quantity quantity of sand which passes passes into the down. It other otner when the egg-timer egg-tîmer is turned turned upside down. It takes takes 3 minutes to 10 do do this - the Ihe usual usual time allowed aHowed for soft-boiling an an egg.

ncrrNnnn -- Wild rose-bush. EGLANTINB EGLANTINE, DOG-ROSE. EGLANTIER WiJd rose-bush. and cOl1tain contain about The hips are are red, ovoid, and and elongated, and The dozen small hairy ossicles. ossicles. a dozen pulp has is used used to to make Hip pulp has astringent properties, and and is jam. Dog-rose hip preserve isis still still sometimes sometimes used used for jam. the hips, with with by steeping the chronic diarrhoea. It is prepared prepared by out, in and cooking and hair scraped out, the seeds and in white wine, and in sugar. in It lf times times its weight in the pulp in to a certain Ecypre -- Egyptian cuisine is influenccd influenced [0 EGYPT. ËGYPTE luxury hotels) Europe (especially in in the the luxury extent by by Ihat that of of Europe extent source of of inspiration isis Oriental. Oriental. Present but ils its principal source but than that is as good, if not better, than day Egyptian gastronomy is of many European countries. from maÎze made from The staple bread made maae staple diet of of Egyptians isis bread The plenty and Ihere there are are plenly flour. Vegetables Vegetables are are highly highly esteemed esteemed and flour. Rice is served both as aa dish dish in in to choose from. from. Riec is servcd both as of varieties to rozzette) and as aa garnish. its own right right (such as as the popular rozzelle) ilS seasoned with with mint, mint, isis A vegetable called called foui midames, seasoned A foul médames, to he their national national dish. dish. considered by by the the Egyptians Egyptians to be their is the Molokheya soup, special herb herb seasonîng, seasoning, is the its special soup, with with its Molokheya national soup. national seasoned rab rabbit or chicken chicken sozp consists of of aa highly seasoned Green soup bit or grem leaf garnished with vegetables. chopped green leaf vegetables. stock garnished with finely finely chopped stock tomato sauce. sauce. eaten with with rice rice and and tomato IlIt isis eaten in Egypt. meat in mutton isis the the favourite favourite meat Charcoal-grilled mutlon Charcoal-grilled farm work, their flesh flesh isis very very are used used for for farm work, their Since bullocks bullocks are Since for stews. stews. tough and and only only suitable suitable for vegetable. Then Then much appreciated appreciated vegel..able. The bamia bamia is is another another much just as (sold in potatoes (sold in wÎnter in the the streets streets in winter just as there are are sweet sweet potatoes there London and Potatoes roast chestnuts in Paris, Paris, London and Vienna). Vienna). Potatocs chestnuts are are in roast as, in in fact, fact, are are and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes are are also also available available as, and in Europe. Europe. most of of the the vegetables vegetables cultivated cultivated in most 357 357

EGYPTIAN LOTUS GYPTIAN LOTUS

(Maisonet jardin. PhOl. Egg-timers (Maison Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Egg-tirners el jardin.

There is is aa delicious variety of giant crayfish crayfish fished fished in in the the There (known by the Italian name, gambari) Red Sea Sea (known gambar) and and batarekh, batarekh, Red kind oflocal oflocal caviare. aa kind The most typical cakes cakes are are the the marzipan marzipan baklawa baklawa and and The most typical konafa; they are Syrian in origin. origin. cultivated Egyptian fruit fruit isis the the date, date, of of The most widely cultivated which are fifteen are excellent excellent large, which there are fifteen varieties. There are sweet, and sugar sugar cane. cane. The The latter is is sold sold in in special sweet, limes, limes, and shops, shops, the the juice juice being being extracted on the spot for the customer. Egypt, juice to countries, does does not not use use this this juice Egypt, unlike unlike other other countries, make rum. There are also grenadines, alsa oranges, mandarins, grenadines, mangoes, mangoes, bananas, bananas, etc. etc.

had been had been electrocuted, electrocuted, they they suddenly suddenly found found aa fine, fine, distinctive distinctive flavour in flavour in the the flesh. flesh. Domestic fowls Domestic fowls are are no no longer longer electrocuted, electrocuted, but but electricity electricity has come has come into into use use in in the the kitchen kitchen as power for as aa motive motive power for driving labour-saving devices, driving labour-saving devices, and and as as aa heating heating medium. medium. Electric Electric cookers cookers are are c1ean clean and highly efficient, and highly efficient, with with sophistisophisticated cated temperature control, control, and and offer precision offer maximum maximum precision preparation of in the the preparation of food. food. The The development development of of electrical electrical household household equipment equipment has has made made necessary necessary the the installation installation of high voltage voltage electrical of high electrical points in the kitchen. The The installation installation of points should of these these points should be be entrusted entrusted only qualified electrical only to to qualified electrical experts. experts. There There should plugs near should be no plugs be no near water water inlets; inlets; flex flex should should be be chanchannelled nelled through tubes tubes or or insulated insulated in (all conin other other ways ways (ail connections nections should should be be carefully carefully insulated, insulated, certain certain types types of of equipment equipment should should be be earthed, earthed, etc.). etc.). Loose Loose lengths lengths of flex of Bex should umber of should be be avoided; avoided; itit is is better better to to increase increase the the nnumber of electrical points, sa so that the various pieces pieces of equipment equipment can can be plugged in be possible to in as as close as as possible to their their area area of of use. use. The The strength strength of the the power-feed must must be be sufficient to to allow allow for for in the any increase in the number of electrical appliances appliances used used at at one time. Modern electrical Modern electrical equipment, equipment, with with its its high high level level of of efficiency, is is usually usually safe, efficiency, safe, but but itit is is advisable advisable to to buy buy from from manufacturers whose reliable manufacturers goods are whose goods are quality-tested and and guaranteed. guaranteed. Household and and kitchen kitchen aids be divided Household aids can can be divided into into two two categories: a a basic basic machine machine that that operates categories: operates aa number number of of or a a number number of of appliances appliances, or appliances each each with with its its own own motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, motor. In large-scale catering (restaurants, institutions, autonomous pressure pressure cookers, cookers, griddles, etc.) autonomous etc.) griddles, deep-friers, deep-friers, etc., are are used. used. Appliances Appliances like like beaters, beaters, mixers, etc., mixers, mincers, mincers, slicers, etc. etc. help help to to cut cut time time and and labour labour costs. whisks, slicers, costs. These, These, however, cannot entirely entirely take take the the place of of manual manual labour: labour: however,

EGYPTIAI\ EGYPIIAN LOTUS. LOTUS. Nrrur,rso-Aquatic NELUMBO - Aquatic plant, also known as as Nile Ni/e lily. li/y. This magnificent magnificent plant, which was was the the sacred lotus of ancient Egypt, is now no longer found found on the the Nile, lotus of but but itit still grows in India and China. Its leaves leaves and roots are edible and its fruit contains con tains up to thirty kernels which which are very very delicate delicate in in flavour. fIavour.

EIDER wild duck. EIDER - Species Species of ofwild duck. ELDERBERRY ELDERBERRY GOURILOS. MoELLE MOELLE DE DE srrREAU SUREAU - After paring outer casing, casing, green elderberry elderberry stalks stalks paring away away the the woody woody outer can can be be cooked cooked in in the the same sa me way as artichoke.stalks artichokestalks or endive endive stumps. stumps.

ELECTRICITY. ELECfRICITY. frpcrucrrf ÉLECTRICITÉ -- A form forro of energy energy which is only only apparent apparent to to our our senses senses when when itit has has been been converted into into chemical, other chemical, calorific, calorific, illuminative, illuminative, mechanical, mechanical, or or other energy. energy.

Electricity Electricity was was first first used used as as aa culinary culinary aid during during a dinner dinner given given under under the the French French Restoration, Restoration, when when chickens chickens were were served served that that had had been been killed killed neither neither by by wringing wringing their their necks necks nor nor slitting slitting their their throats, throats, aa fact fact that that excited excited the the curiosity curiosity of the the guests guests when when they they were were told. told. Upon Upon hearing hearing that that the the fowls fowls

358 358

EN.CAS EN-CAS Eminc€s of beef with poiwade sauce. sauce. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF for for Emincis Émincés of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering covering the the meat meal with with Poivrade Poivrade sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Emincds Émincés of of beef bœf with witt Robert Robert souce. ftutNcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUf sAUcE SAUCE RoBERT ROBERT -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, covering the the meat meat with with Robert Robert sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Enincds of of beef bœf with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. ftrltlcfs ÉMINCÉS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF sAUcE SAUCE ToMATE TOMATE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Emincds Émincés of beef chasseur, covering covering the the meat meat with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). After ACter being being covered with wilh the the sauce sauce indicated, indicated, imincis of of beef beef can be be garnished garnished in in various various ways. ways. The The garnishes garnishes most most suited to to these these dishes are: are: saut6 saute potatoes; gree,n vegetables vegetables tossed in butter butter or or cream; cream. braised vegetables; pur6es of of lossed in pulses pulses and and chestnuts; pasta pasta of of various various kinds; rice pilaf pilaf and and risotto. mutton or nminces Émiocés of ofmuttoo or lamb. 18mb. ErarNcfs ÉMINCÉS oe DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Proceed as as for for imincis éminces of of beef, beef, using using left-over left-over roast roast or or - Proceed braised mutton mutlon or lamb. lamb. Erninces Émincés of of pork. pork. nr,nNcts ÉMINCÉS DE DE PoRc PORC - Proceed, Proceed, using using slices slices for dmincis of left-over left-over pork, pork, as as for émincés of of beef. beef. fninces of poultry. pooltTy. frrlrNcrs ÉMINCÉS DE DE voLAILLB VOLAILLE -- Make Make with with thin thin Émincés of slices of roast or poached poached left-over left-over poultry. All AH methods methods of of poultry. of poullry. serving imincis émincés of of beef are are suitable suitable fot imincds of cream sauces, such They can also be covered with with white white sauces, such as as cream hongroise' sauce, curry, supréme, ravigote, ravigote, hongroise. curry, suprime, cHEYREUIT f,ninces of of roebuck. funNcfs ÊMI.NC~.s DE DE CHEVREUIL .- Proceed, Proceed, fot imincis as for roast roebuck, of left-over roast using slices of roebuck, as émincés of of using slices beef. game, can be all This dish, and other ground game, be covered covered with with ail veneur, ground game, game, e.g. e.g. grand grand veneur, sauces especially especially suitable for graund romaine. romaine. bntn,llke DE vEAU EtvtIxcfs DE Emincds of veal. ÉMINCÉS Émincés VEAU - Prepared, Prepared, àd brun, like poultry. of poultry. imincds of blanc,like of beei imincis émincés of beef, àit blanc, like émincés

they they are are useful useful aids, aîds, no no more. more. And And not not all al! machines machines are are equipped equipped with with aa sufficient sufficient number number of of speed speOO variants. variants.

sAUcE as SAUCE poIvRADE POlVRADE - Proceed as

ELEPHAI{T. ELEPHAl'I1'. frfpsnNr ÉLÉPHANT -- Elephant Elephant meat meat is IS edible but but leathery. leathery. The The trunk trunk and and feet feet are are regarded regarded as as great great delicacies delicacies in in some sorne Asian Asian countries. countries.

manufactured by by dissolving dissolving ELIXIR. ELlXJR. 6rDsR ÉLlXJR -- Liquid manufactured

various in alcohol or wine wine containing contammg aa high provarîous elements e\ernents in portion of alcohol. alcohol. The The old Codex Codex Pharmacopoera Pharmacopoeia included portion of large number number of formulae fonnulae for elixirs. e!ixirs. The present present Codex Codex a large includes among which which are the the following: following: includes only 6, among Elixir of of cola. cola. 6rxn. ÉLIXIR DE DE coLA COLA -- 50 50 g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) fluid extract extracl of of Elixir 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) 60" proof alcohol, 100 e. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) plain plain cola, 100 syrup and 750 g. (l? lb.) Lunel wine. GARUS -- Steep I1 g. vanilla vanilla and Elixir of Garus. 6t xn DE cARUs g. saffron in I1 kg. (2* (2! lb.) spirit of of Garus for 22 days. ]tg. oz.) r4aidenhair Infuse Infuse 20 20 e. e (~oz.) Tr!aidenha ir fern fem in in 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz.) 30 minutes. Add 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) distilled distilled boiling water water for 30 boiling kg (2+lb.,4f (2i lb., 41- cups) white sugar. orange-flower water water and and I1 kg orange-flower Mix well. weIl. Add the spirit spirit to this trus syrup. syrup. Leave to cool and filter. tiHer. Elixir Elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grwde--Chartrwse. 6rtxn ÉLIXIR os DE LA LA GRANDEGRANDESteep the CHARTREUSE - Steep Ihe following following for for 8 8 days days in in l0 10 litres lilres cHARTREUsE of (9 (9 quarts, quarts, ll Il quarts) alcohol:650 alcohol: 650 g. g. (scant (seant l+ 11 lb.) each each of 300 g. fresh melissa melissa leaves leaves and and hyssop hyssop leaves, leaves, 300 g. (11 (II oz.) fresh 50 g. (2 oz.) 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) cinnamon cinnamon pod, pod, 50 leaves, 150 angelica leaves, 5+ Distil. Add mace and and saffron. saffron. Distil. Add 1260 126û g. each of mace E. QZ lb., 5t cups) white sugar. ÉLAN -- Wild ruminant found found in northem Europe. The ELK. 6r,.,c,N its flesh and its existence, and stag in elk is is now now the the largest stag in existence, flesh is elk deer are are suitable for and fallow edibJe. AH recipes recipes for stag and fallaw deer edible. All elk.

degree of of indicated aa degree This word word once once indicated EMBONPOINT -- This size, but but it fat was in which corpulence in which fat was proportionate to ta size, it is for slight obesity. as aa euphemism for used as now now commonly used good food are usually proud of their Connoisseurs of good Connoisseurs food are their weight might be they although whatever their embonpoint although embonpoÎnt never admit to being fat.

slice to slice meaning ta cookery meaning in French French cookery used in E*ffNCnn -- Term used ÉMINCER and turnips are very t'inely. finely. Carrois Carrots and fruit very meat, meat, vegetables or fruit pteparation, mushraoms mushrooms when fot a paysanne finely sliced sliced for finely paysanne preparation, potatoes, sliced potatoes, Finely sliced butter. Finely in butter. saut6ed in to be are 10 they are he sautéed iminci. tobe said etc. are also sa apples, etc. id to be émincé.

CHEESE. See CHEESE. EMMENTHAL -- See EMMENTHAL

meat. Thinly Thinly sliced, itit left-over meat. npffnCf -- Dish made with left-over ÉMINCÉ sauce, such is placed in an ovenware ovenware dish and covered with aa sauce, is Robert, ltalian, piquante, Robert, chasseur, Italian,piquanze, borde laise, mushroom, chasseur, as hordelaise, etc. Tomato, etc. the sauce heated only only in in the sauce meat must must be be heated These slices of meat slices of These if roast roast meat meat poured over 1them especially if boil, especially hem,; they must not bail, are most most commonly commonly mutton, or or lamb are is used. used. Beer, Beef, roebuck, mutton, sometimes made with poultry. for Ihis this dish dish but but itit isis sometimes used for used fir,rmc€s DE DE BOEUF BoEUF sauce. ÉMINCÉS of beef bordelaise sauce. Eminces of bed with with bordelaise Éminces in aa dish dish and and slices of of meat in the slices sAUcE BORDELAISE BoRDELAIsE -- Arrange the SAUCE poached beef garnish with bone-marrow. Cover Cover beef bone-marrow. strips of of poached with strips gamish (see SAUCE). wth Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce (see with DE BOEUF BoEUF CHASSEUR cHAssEUR --chasseur. frurucfs DE fminc6s of of beef bed chasswt. Émincés dish and and cover cover with with boiling of beef beef on on aa dish Arrange slices slices of Arrange (see SA SAUCE). Chasseur sauce (see Chasseur UCE). pn BOEUF soeuF ÀA fivrmcfs DE l'italienne. ÉMlNCÉS fnincds of of bœf beef àI lïta]jenoe. Émincés for Émincès Emincis of beef chasseur, chasseur, L'ITALENNE -- Proceed as for Proceed as L'lTALŒNNE ltaliut sauce sauce (se SAUCE). covering the the meat meat with with ltalian la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. fruwcfs os sosuF A rA, beef àA hl Eninc6s of of hœf as for for Émincés Emincis of of beef beef chasseur, chasseur, LyoNNAIsE -- Proceed Proceed as LYOl'<'"NAISE (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lyonnaise sauce sauce (sec the meat meat with with Lyonnaise covering the covering DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Atx nrrrNcfs mushrooms. ÉM fninces of of beef. beef .with Émincés with IDl.lsbrooms. 1Nets DE on aa dish. dish. Put Put Arrange the the slices slices of of beef beef on cHAMpIGNoNs -- Arrange CHAMPIGNONS the top of in butter, on top of the tossed in butter, on mushrooms, tossed or sliced whole or sliced rnushrooms, whole sauce (se SA SAUCE). Madeira sauce slices. Cover Cover with with boiling boiling Madeira UCE). slices. DE BOEUF piErante sauce. nrarr.rcrs DE BoEUF with piquante Eminces of of beef beef witll Émincés pIeuANTE - Proceed beef chasseur, chasseur, of beef for Emincis of sAUcE PIQUANTE SAUCE - Proceed asas for (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE). Piquante sauce covering the the meat meat with with Piquante coverÎng UCE).

the to all all the referring to French caokery cookery referring in French EMPOTAGE EMPOT AGE -- Term În put in in aa braising pan. ingredients pu! Pan. ingredienls in aa put various various Ingredients ingredients in to put meaning to EMPIOTER -- Term meanîng EMPOTER pan. stockpot stock pot or braising pan.

ftuurstoN -EMLTLSION. ÉMULSION EMUlSION. drops of of minute drops containing minute contajoing

of milky milky appearance appearance Liquid of Liquid less stable stable in more more or or less fat in oil or or fat oil

suspension.

slightly the liquid liquid isis slightly stability when when the Emulsions have greater stability somewhat viscous viscous consistency. consistency. and proteid, with with aa sornewhat alkaloid and globules. of cream cream globules. is an an emulsion emulsion of Milk, for for instance, instance, is Milk, given in to aa mixture mixture in cookery cookery to is also also given name emulsion emulsion is The name Tbe yolks, such mayonnaise or or as mayonnaise such as with egg egg yolks, of oil oil or or butter butter with of hollandaise sauce. sauce. hollandaise fir,rursloN or milk milk of of almonds. alnonds. ÉMULSION Plain a!mooo alnond emulsion enulsion or Plain g. (2 (2 oz., oz., 1 cup) D'AMANDEs -- 50 50 g. LAlr D'AMANDES o'ArrrlNnns, LAIT srMpLE D'A.\fANDES, I cup) SIMPLE (2 oz., g. (2 cup) white white sugar, 1I 50 g. oz., * cup) sweet almonds, almonds, 50 blanched sweet blanched quart) distiJled (l* pints, generous quart) water (Codex pints, generous distilled water litre (Ii litre formula). fonnula). the little water to the and aa Iinle water ta sugar and the almonds almonds withthe with'the sugar Pound the Paund paste. Dilute the rest rest of of the the Dilute with with the of aa smoolh smooth paste. consistency of consistency sieve. and rub rub through through aa sieve. water and water

±

in France France to to 'in case' used iD meaning 'in case' which which isis used Term meaning EN-CAS - Term EN-CAS(usually aa cold kept ready ready in in case case of of meal) kept meal (usually cold meal) describe aa meal describe need. need. readiness laid in in readiness table was was always always laid In the the old old châteaux, chiteaux, aa table ln eighteenth guests. In and eighteenth In the the sevenleenth seventeenth and for unexpected unexpected guests. for 359 359

ENDIVE ENDIVE centuries the the en en cas cas de denuit nuit was given toto aa light was the the name name given light centuries meal kept kept inin readiness readiness near near the the king's king's bedchamber. bedchamber. ItIt meal consisted of of three three loaves loaves of of bread, bread, two two bottles bottles of of wine wine and and aa consisted flask of of water. water. According According to to an an anecdote anecdote dating dating from from the the flask time of Louis XIV, great king of Louis XIV, the the great king once once shared shared his lrlrs en-cas en-cas time Molidre in with Molière in order order to to teach teach his his courtiers courtiers aa lesson lesson after after with they had had refused refused to to allow allow the the famous famous dramatist dramatist to to sit sit at at their their they table. table.

Endiveài lalaflamande. flamande.CHICORÉE cgrcoRfEÀ^A.LA r.a,FLAMANDE rr,lMlNor - -Trim Endive Trimand and wash the theendive. endive.Blanch, Blanch,drain, drain, and andcook cookititwhole wholeininbutter. wash butter. Finish ininthe thesame sameway wayasasfor forEndive Endivewith withcream. ueam. Finish gratin.CHICORÉE Endiveau ur gratin. cnrconfo AU AUGRATIN GRATTN- - Put Putthe Endive thebraised braised endive ininaafireproof fireproof dish dishand andcover coverwith Bichamelsauce endive withBéchamel sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle gratedcheese, Sprinkle with pourmelted with grated cheese, pour (see melted butter over overit, it, and gently ininthe andbrown browngently theoven. butter oven. jus.CHICORÉE Endive au aujus. crnconnn AU AUJUS JUS- - Braise Endive Braise the theendive endive ininbeef beef stock on on aa foundation foundation of (carrots, ofsliced sliced root root vegetables stock vegetables(carrots, onions, etc.). Strain Strain the the boiled-down boiled-downliquor on ions, etc.). liquor and andadd addtotoitit several tablespoons tablespoons rich richveal vealstock. stock. several p,c.nrDE Erdive loaf. loaf. PAIN orCHICORÉEcrnconfr- Combine (generous Endive Combine 500 500g.g.(generous lb.) braised braised endive endive with with 33 beaten 1I lb.) beateneggs. eggs.Season Seasonwith withsalt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mix weIl. pepper well.Pour Pour into into aabuttered buttered mould. mould. Cook inin the the oven oven inin aabain-marie bain-marie for Cook for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Leave Leavetoto cool for for aa few few moments moments before cool before turning turning itit out outonto ontoaadish. dish. Cover with Allemandesauce with Allemande (se SAUCE). Cover sauceor or Cream Crectrn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Endive au au maigre. maigre. CHICORÉE Endive cnrconfe ÉTUVÉE Eruvsn AU AU MAIGRE MATcRE - - Blanch Blanch put itit inin aa colander the endive, endive, put the colander under under the thecold cold tap, tap,drain, drain, and dry dry it. it. Put Put itit in in aacasserole and casserole with with 50 50 g.g. (2 oz.,tf,cup) cup)butter butter Qoz., (generous 1I lb.) for every every 500 for 500 g.g. (generous lb.) endive. endive. Season. Season. Moisten Moisten pint, 2! with 66 dl. dl. (1(l pint, with 2| cups) cups) water, water, and and cook cook inin the the oven, oven, covered, for for li l| hours. hours. covered, (q.v.) of A white A white roux roux (q.v.) of flour flour and and butter butter can canbe be added. added. punrE DE pre€. PURÉE Endive purée. Endive oE CHICORÉE csrconfn -- Rub Rub braised braised or orstewed stewed endive through endive through aa sieve. sieve.Add Add Béchamel Bdchamel sauce, sauce, thick thickVelouté Veloutd (se SA sauce (see UCE), rich sauce SAUCE), rich veal veal stock, stock, or or fresh fresh butter. butter. To To improve improve the the consistency puree, add consistency of of this this purée, add aa third third or or aa quarter of quarter potato purée. of its its weight pur6e. weight of of potato Endive Endive salad. salad. SALADE slrlnr DE on CHICORÉE crrconm -- See SeeSALAD. SALAD. Endive Endive soufflé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sor.JrFI,f DE (9 oz.) on CHICORÉE cnrcon6n -- Cook Cook 250 250 g.g. (9 oz.) endive endive in in beef beef stock (in butter stock or or au au maigre maigre (in butter and and water), water), and and sieve. sieve. Combine yolks; season Combine with with 33 egg egg yolks; pepper, season with with salt, salt, pepper, and and nutmeg; nutmeg; and and add add 33 well-whisked well-whiskd egg egg whites. whites. Pour Pour into into aa buttered buttered soufflé souffi6 dish. dish. Smooth Smooth the the surface surface and and cook (400'F., Gas cook in in the the oven oven at at 200°C. 200"C. (400°F., Mark 6)6) for Gas Mark for 15 15 to to 18 l8 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve at at once. once. Endive Endive soufflé soufl6 with with Parmesan. Parmesan. SOUFFLÉ on CHICORÉE souFFr.6 DE cnrconfo AU nu PARMESAN PARMESAN -- Made Made in in the the same same way way as as Endive Endive soufflé. souffii.Add Add g. (2 50 50 g. grated Parmesan oz., it cup) atp) grated Parmesan to to the the soufflé. souffi6. Q oz., pErrrs SOUFFLÉS Little (hot hors Little endive endive soufflés soufrds (bot hors d'œuvre). dbuwe). PETITS sourrrfs pe CHICORÉE DE cruconfo -- The The same same as as above. above. Put Put the the mixture mixture into into individual individual soufflé soufr6 dishes dishes and and cook cook in in the the oven oven at at 200°C. 200'C. (400'F., Gas (400°F., Gas Mark Mark 6) 6) 88 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Endive Endive subrics. srbrics. SUBRICS suBRrcs DE os CHICORÉE cHlcoRfo -- Prepared Prepared with with braised braised endive endive in in the the same same way (see way as as Subrics Subrics of of spinach spinach (see SPINACH). SPTNACH).

ENDIVE AND AND CHICORY CHICORY ENDIVE Louviers endive (U.S. chicory) endive (U.S. chicory) 2.2. Barbe-de-Capucin Barbe-de-Capucin (wild (wild chicory) chicory) 1.l. UJuviers (U.S. 3. Chicory Belgian endive) (U.S. chicory, 4. Endive (U.S. chicory, escarole) escarole) 3. Chicory (U.S. Belgian endive) 4. Endive

(U.S. CHICORY). ENDM (V.S. plant CHICORY). CHICORÉE crrconfe -- Genus Genus of ENDIVE of plant leaves. These are eaten in salads, salads, but can cultivated for its leaves. can be be braised or stewed stewed in in butter butter as as indicated indicated in in the braised or the following recipes. is confusion confusion about about the the names endive endive and There is and chicory. chicory. In endive usually usually means means the the curly-Ieaved In England England endive curly-leaved salad plant, generally called called chicory chicory in in the the U.S.A. plant, generally U.S.A. What What the the French and Americans cali call endive or Belgian Belgian endive is is called called England. For chicory in For the sake of clarity in England. the sake clarity we we are are giving preference usage. preference to the English usage. Endive has very little nutritive value. nutritive value. Endive with bechamel sauce. CHICORÉE béchamel sauce. crnconm À A LA r,q BÉCHAMEL sfcnAMrr -Braise in beef stock stock or cook in in salted salted boiling water. water. Add several tablespoons tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and sorne some fresh endive. fresh butter to the cooked endive. Braised gras. crnconfr CHICORÉE BRAlSÉE AU GRAS Braised endive endive au au gras. BRATSEE AU GRAs -Remove Remove any any hard leaves. Cut the rest from the stump. Wash the the leaves in several clean lots of water, water, drain and and blanch them them for l0 10 minutes in rapidly boiling salted salted water. Drain, put put under under the cold co Id tap, press the water from the endive endive and chop chop itit up up finely. finely. Make Make a a white white roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) For 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) endive cup) butter and 50 50 g. (2 oz., endive use use 50 g. (2 oz., * cup) oz.,f± cup) flour seasoned with with salt, pepper, pepper, sugar sugar and grated nutmeg, and moistened moistened with 6 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, 2t 2± cups) consomm6, consommé, or white stock. stock. Add Add the the endive. Bring Bring to the boil on the top of white the stove stove and and then then cook, cook, covered, in in the oven for lj I! hours. the CHICORÉE AU AU BEURRE BEURREBraise in in beef beefstock Buttered endive. endive. crncon6E hrttered stock - Braise or cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. Add to the the cooked endive endive or 50 50 to to 75 75 g. g. (2 (2 to to 3 oz., oz., f,t to to f cup) butter butter for every 500 g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) of of vegetable. vegetable. cream. csrconfn CHICORÉE A À rn LA cniup CRÈME - Cook in in the Endive with with cream. Endive same way way as as Buttered Buttered endive. endive. Finish Finish with with lf 1! dl. $ (i pint, pint, I1 same cup) fresh fresh cream. cream. cup)

ENDIVE ENDM GOURILOS. MOELLE rraonlt.n DE DE CHICORÉE cHrcoRfn -- The The stumps stumps of curly curly endive endive are are often often called called moelles moelles in in France, France, but but they they are also known gourilos, known as as gourilos. Blanch Blanch in in salt salt water water containing containing lemon lemon or vinegar, and or vinegar, and drain weIl. well. Prepare Prepare in various ways: in butter wayst in butter or or cream in aa cream in covered pan; fried; (q.v.); grilled; covered pan; grilled; àd la grecque fried; in fritols h grecque fritots (q.v.); (q.v.);; curried; (q.v.) (See GOURILOS.) curried ; sautéed, sauteed, etc. etc. (See GOURILOS.)

ENGLISH ENGLISH COOKERY -- See INTERNATIONAL COOKSee INTERNATIONAL COOKERY.

i

ENTOLOMA. ENror,orm ENTOLOME - Mushroom of the the agaric agaric family family ENTOLOMA. - Mushroom of characterized by by its its pink spores lamellae. The The blackishspores and characterized and lamellae. blackish-

entoloma is is poisonous poisonous and blue entoloma blue causes gastroenteritis and causes accompanied by by epigastric vomiting. accompanied epigastric pains and and vomiting.

t

ENTOMOPHAGOUS. ENroMopHAcB ENTOMOPHAGE - Word ENTOMOPHAGOUS. of Greek Greek - Word of origin meaning meaning insect-eating. insect-eating. The origin The ancient ancient Athenians Athenians ate ate grilled cicadas. cicadas. Even Even today today many many peoples, grilled peoples, including including the the Arabs and and the the Egyptians, Egyptians, enjoy grasshoppers. The Arabs enjoy grasshoppers. The Chinese, Chinese, too, eat eat certain certain insects, insects, caterpillars, caterpillars, etc. etc. too,

360 360

EPILEPSY Most sweets served nowadays fall into one of the following categories: categories: l.1. Batter sweets (cr€pes, (crêpes, fritters, etc.). 2. custards. 2. Cooked creams creams and custards. 3. omelettes, etc.). 3. Egg sweets (sweet omelettes, 4. sweets (cooked or raw). 4. Fruit sweets 5. Ices and ice creams. 5. creams. sweets. 6. 6. Meringue Meringue sweets. 7. Pastry sweets sweets (tarts, pies, flans, etc.). 7. 8. 8. Puddings. sweets. 9. Rice and semolina sweets. 9. 10. Whipped 10. Whipped cream sweets. EPERGNE. MÉNAGÈRE rafNlcins -- Table-centre of of glass, porcelain or metal stem. metal bowls attached to to an an ornamental ornamental metal stem. In metal bowls attached France, epergnes are are still still used used as hors-d'euvre sets as hors-d'œuvre sets for France, epergnes pickled melons, salted cucumbers, small pickled melons, serving gherkins, salted and other delicaci~s. delicacies. They are also also used used for for serving serving capers, and petitsfouis. stewed fruit or iced petitsfouis.

Piece of ofentrec6te entrecôte from rib rib ofbeef of beef (Boucherie Larousse) Boucherie Bernard. Phot. Larousse)

(

ENTRECÔTE -- Tenn means 'between the ENTRECOTE Term which which literally means between two ribs of beef. ribs'. It is used of a steak taken between The term tenn also also applies to a slice taken from the contrefilet or faux filet filet of beef, but a true entrecôte between entrec6te is that cut between or faux various recipes, For various ribs. It is is usually usually grilled or fried. fried. For the ribs. see BEEF. BEEF.

ENTRELARDER term for for slices slices of meat ENTRELARDER -- French culinary tenn cooked with alternate layers of of pork fat. alternate layers

lamb consists of two consists of An épigramme ipigramme of lamb npfCnnVfME -- An ÉPIGRAMME of breast cuts, both cooked 'dry'. These two pieces are a slice ofbreast in egg and breadcrumbs and dipped in egg and and aa cutlet cutlet or chop, dipped and preparation of the preparation grilled or Instructions for for the fried. Instructions or fried. grilled ipigrammes are given under LAMB. épigrammes term épigramme ipigramme explains the origins of the tenn Philéas Phil6as Gilbert explains as follows: 'It was towards the middle of the eighteenth century. One guests at at table day aa young marquise overheard one of her guests evening with he was dining the the previous evening remark that when he remark received and, he was was charrningly charmingly received de Vaudreuil, Vaudreuil, he the comte de the The epigrams. The had aa feast feast of of excellent excellent epigrams. furthermore, had had had furthermore, pretty and was somewhat somewhat elegant, was and elegant, marquise, though though pretty marquise, ignorant of the meaning of words. Michelet. her chef. later summoned Michelet, 'She later "tomorrow, 1I shall shall require him, "tomorrow, "'Michelet," she she said to to him, '''Michelet,'' ipigrammesl" aa dish of épigrammes!" chef withdrew, pondering the problem. He looked up 'The chefwithdrew, kind. the kind. no reference to anything of the found no but found old recipes, but old no But no heard of of the the dish. dish. But had ever ever heard None of his his colleagues colleagues had None could discover at aa loss. loss. Since Since he could is ever at French master chef is one. Next day, day, set about about to invent one. nothing about the dish dish he set nothing delicate dish. dish. and he created created aa most delicate inspiration came and put guests feU 'At dinner, over the the dish dish put fell into ecstasies ecstasies over dinner, the the guests 'At the house, house, and, after after complimenting complimenting the lady of the thun and, before them was called. The chef called. With With perfect its name. The chef was know its desired to to know desired la Michelet". Michelet". "Epigrammes oflamb of lamb àd la composure he replied, "Épigrammes composure 'Everyone laughed. The marquise marquise was was triumphant, laughed. The 'Everyone the amusement amusement of of her not understand understand the though she she could could not though of France France guests. From that moment, the culinary culinary repertoire of guests. to this day. day. still used used to enriched by by aa name still was enriched for slices slices of originally used used for of 'But whereas this this name name was was originally 'But fried in in butter and in breadcrumbs, fried butter and breast of lamb dipped dipped in breast of lamb lamb, by end of lamb, by the the end round aa blanquette blanquette of arranged arranged in in aa circle circle round had been transformed been completely completely transfonned of the eighteenth eighteenth century century itit had of in slices of of breast, breast, dipped dipped in into what what itit isis today, today, cutlets cutlets and and slices into grilled.' fried in in butter or grilled.' butter or egg and and fried egg and breadcrumbs and

ENTREMETS -- Literally 'between dishes'. In old old French French dishes'. In Literally 'between the tenn roast, and and followed the roast, term covered all the dishes dishes which followed covered ail included not sweets but not only sweets but vegetables. ln and seventeenth seventeenth fifteenth, sixteenth sixteenth and In the the fourteenth, fourteenth, fifteenth, centuries, entertainnot only food but but also also entertainmeant not only food centuries, entremets entremets meant provided by ment by buffoons, of the the meal, meal, provided ment in in the the middle middle of perminstrels, and other other peracrobats, dancers, dancers, and minstrels, troubadours, troubadours, acrobats, fonners. formers. (desserts), which, Nowadays, the in which, in means sweets sweets (desserts), word means the word given under France, Recipes are are given under France, are after the cheese. cheese. Recipes are served served after their names in order. their names in alphabetical alphabetical order.

particular fpllrpsn -- Ancient Ancient doctors, doctors, in in particular EPILEPSY. ÉPILEPSIE EPlLEPSY. of diet diet in in the the treatHippocrates, recognised the the importance importance of treatHippocrates, kinds of of conflicting conflicting ment of disease, and and since since then then al! all kinds of this this disease, ment diets have have been Some definite definite conclusions conclusions can can been concocted. concocted. Sorne diets facts, however. however. drawn from from certain certain facts, be drawn be voracious eaters; cutting Epileptics are are hearty, hearty. sometimes eaters; cutting sometimes voracious Epileptics number of diminishes the the number of epileptic epileptic on food food therefore down on therefore diminishes down fits. fits. particularly aa milk vegetarian diet, milk diet diet lessens lessens the the A vegetarian diet, or or particularly A frequency of of fits fits in in the the majority majority of of cases. cases. frequency not true for ail true for all epileptics. These claims, however, are are not epileptics. claims, however, These

ENTRECUISSE -- Tenn Term in cookery for the fleshy in French cookery game. This thigh of poultry or is to This is to distinguish distinguish it thigh or winged game. from the lower half of the leg or 'drumstick'.

given to the area ENTRE-DEUX-MERS -- Name Name given to the area of ENTRE-DEUX-MERS

the Dordogne, Dordogne, Bordeaux situated between between the Garonne and the stretching boundary of of the the Gironde the south-eastern south-eastem boundary stretching to to the département dipartethe Lot-et-Garonne Lot-et-Garonne départedipartemefi and and overlapping overlapping the ment. for the The is reserved reserved for The appellation appellation Entre-Deux-Mers Entre-Deux-Mers is gradually becoming drier. white wines, drier. The The red wines, which which are are gradually wines to the appellation Bordeaux or Bordeaux wines have aa right to Supérieur. Sup6rieur.

in aa full full French French menu, ENTRÉE course which, which. in ENTREE -- The The course in its relevd or intermediate course course which, which, in follows follows the the relevé or intennediate (or whatever dish turn, dish may may be be served served in turn, follows the the fish fish (or place of it). third course, is the the third place In other words, words, the the entrée entrie is it). In not the first, would seem to to be. first, as as it would It is usually a dish served with a white or brown sauce, but formal dinner, dinner, several several can At aa large large formai dish. At can also also be be aa cold cold dish. in character, character, are entrées, entries, ail different from from one one another another in all different usually served. served. dishes, can also Mixed entrées, that is is to to say say composite dishes, can also entries, that be served. Mixed entrées. rNrnfes MIXTES MxrEs -- Under this heading there entr6es. ENTRÉES is the chief chief of of these these being being variety of is an an infinite infinite variety of dishes, dishes, the pdtis made garnishes; hot various gamishes; hot pâtés made casseroles rice with with various casseroles of of rice (variety meats), poultry, game, game, meat, fish and with meat, offal offal (variety meats), fish and with poultry, shellfish;· vol-au-vent. These pies; savoury shellfish; pies; These are tartlets and and vol-au-vent. savoury tartlets served after the the principal entrées. entries.

361 361

EPINE D'HIVER

D'HMR -- Name Name of aa winter Epnm D'HIVER ÉPINE pear, tender tender and winter pear, fragrant to eat.

raw in is chiefly chiefly eaten eaten raw in salad, salad, but can also also be Escarole is but can cooked in a great many ways. Ali methods of All the methods preparation cooked of preparation (q.v.) are given for (q.v.) and chicory (q.v.) for endive (q.v.) are applicable to given this plant.

EpfNEn -- French regional name for chine of pork. ÉPINÉE

EPIPHANY. ÉPIPHANIE 6ppn,c,NIE -- Epiphany Epiphany or or Twelfth Twelfth Night Night EPIPHANY. (known in France as the Feast of the Kings) is celebrated (known celebrated on it is an occasion occasion for great feasting. feasting. 6 January. In France il Twelfth-Night cake, cake, the the symbolic symbolic cake cake containing the Twelfth-Night is eaten on Twelfth Night. It is traditional bean (or favour) is made either either of risen risen dough dough in in the shape of aa ring, ring, or flaky made pastry in the shape of a galette, according to the region. EPOTSSNS -_ See SEC CHEESE. ÉPOISSES CHEESE. EpONCnn -- Tenn Term in in French cookery for the process ÉPONGER French cookery for the process of dryrng parboiled or boiled vegetables by putting them on a drying draining, to get rid of ail all surplus moisture. cloth after draining, Sorne Some deep-fried foods are drained in a clotho cloth. This process iponger. is also known as éponger. ERDBEERKUCHEN (German pastry) -- A German strawERDBEERKUCHEN berry tart. See TART, Fruit Fruit tart àd l'allemande.

ERIdITAGE is sometimes sometimes written with ERMIT AGE (Wine) -- This name is (Hermitage). The wine, which is an 'H' (Hennitage). is made in the Drôme an Dr6me dipartement, enjoys aa great département, are both red Ereat reputation. There are and white Ermitage Ennitage wines, made from grapes grown on the and slopes of I'Ermitage in the the commune of Tain Tain on l'Ennitage in the left slopes on the bank of ofthe Rhdne. the Rhône. There are different types of soil in this area, and the vinesections or mas, divided into three sections mas) each very very different different yard is divided Bossard in geological structure from from the others. The mas de Bossard the mas de de Mial is alluvial soil, soil, and is aa granite slope, Méal is slopeo the and the mas Grffieux is clay. mos de Greffieux Ermitage wine wine is is perfect only when when made from grapes Ennitage perfect only made from from aU all three sections of ofthe the vineyard. golden yellow. It has a fairly White Ermitage Ennitage wine is a fine golden White of a faded strong bouquet. The red wine, when it is young, is of purple colour. It should be left to mature for a while, otherslightly bitter. wise it tastes slightly

ofaa sugar Auguste Escoffier in front of sugar model of o[ Grosvenor House, London Grosvenor

ESCOFFIER, ESCOFFIE& AUGUSTE -- Auguste Escoffier was born at little town town in in the the AlpesVilleneuve-Loubet, Villeneuve-Loubet, aa channing charming little He began the age age of Maritimes, in in 1847. 1847. He career at at the began his his career Maritimes, twelve, and became a very great cook. Echenard, two with Ritz RiCI and and Echenard, ln In 1890, 1890, in in association association with masters of the hotel business, he opened the Savoy Hotel in remaind in this illustrious establishment until London, and remained direction of 1898 when, for personal reasons, he gave up the direction those of the the Carlton the the Savoy kitchens to take charge charge of those Hotel, then one of the most famous in Europe. prestige of As a reward for all he had done to enhance the prestige French cooking throughout the world, Escoffier was was made in 1920, and Officer of a Chevalier of the Legion of Honour in Legion in in 1928. the Legion regarded Escoffier's culinary career was brilliant. He was regarded kitchens, emperor world's's ki peror of the world tchens, a tititle tle conferred uupon pon as the em II, who spent some time on him by the spent sorne the Emperor Emperor William II, him Hamburg-America Line, which the steamer Imperator of of the Hamburg-America steamer Imperator charge of the imperial kitchens. Escoffier had joined to take charge In the course of Emperor, ln of a conversation conversation with Escoffier, the Emperor, 'I am am the Emperor of Gennany, Germany, congratulating him, said: said: '1 are the Emperor Emperor of chefs.' chefs.' but you are in 1921. 1921. He was then seventy-four years Escoffier retired retired in In ail art for sixty-two years. In all of age had practised his art age and and had is no no other example of such a the history of cookery, there is 1935, nearly career. He died in February February 1935, long professional career. eighty-nine eighty-nine years old. The culinary writings of Escoffier are works of authority. collaboraThe best-known best-known are le Guide culinaire, written in collabora/e Livre Gilbert and and Emile Fetu; le Émile Fetu; Livre des tion tion with with Philéas Phil6as Gilbert le Riz; Ie Carnet m cire; cire; Ma cuisine; le Ies Fleurs Ma cuisine; Riz; le menus; Fleurs en menus; les

given in name given The name in France to to aa very very old old wild ERMITE -- The boai boa'r which is also known as solitaire. The meat of old wild young boar leathery. Only In France, a is leathery. Only young is eaten. eaten. In boar is boar is (See young boar is rousse. (See is known as as aa marcassin marca,ssm or or bête bOte rousse. young wrLD BOAR.) WILD ER.VY -. See CHEESE. ERVY CHEESE. generic name The generic fnvrnnrN -- The ERYTHRIN. ÉRYTHRIN name for for several thick and and rounded rounded in varieties of of fish, fish, rather in body varieties rather thick body with large heads. to be be found found in the lakes lakes and Three or four four varieties are are to fish is to eat. eat. It It is rivers of hot hot countries. countries. This This fish rivers is excellent to cooked in the same way as as sea perch. ESCABTCHE -- See hors-d'auvre. ESCABÈCHE HORS-DGUVRE, Cold hors-d'œuvre. See HORS-DŒUVRE, of Spanish Spanish origin. In Belgium it is escavèche, Word of escaviche, in North Africa, scabèche. scabCche.

or COLLOP -- Slices of meat or fish fish of any ESCALOPE or slightly and fried in butter or sorne kind, flattened slightly some other fat. In fonner former times the tenn was used of ln of a dish of sliced meat, instance, sliced mutton would be be called une escalope for instance, escalope de mouton. mouton. generally cut Veal escalopes escalopes are are generally cut from from the the fil1et fillet (U.S. Veal (U.S. rib) end of neck (U.S. rib) or the topside or round) or the best end silverside (U.S. rump). rump). silverside

d'Épicure. d'Epicure. in 1893, 1893, honoured the It the Australian It was who, in was Escoffier who, singer, Melba, by creating the peach dish that bears singer, Nellie Melba, her name. invented the the dodine au m Chambertin and and her He also name. He also invented named after aa ship that the chaud-froid Jeannette, the latter named the Polar Polar ice. ice. Many delicate culinary trapped in was in the Many delicate was trapped creations are associated with his name.

ESPAGNOLE basic brown sauces. ESPAGNOLE SAUCE -- One One of the the basic which indicates It is is also also called sauce-mère sauce-mire (mother-sauce) which derivative that it can be used as a basis for a large number of derivative brown sauces. calledpetite-espagnole. petite-espagnole. This is Carême's Cardme's recipe for what he called

sc.morB -- Variety of salad salad plant with wide, ESCAROLE. SCAROLE grean leaves which are sometimes sometimes blanched by curled, dark green being surrounded with with earth earth or or being cultivated in cellars cultivated in cellars in the dark.

362

ESSENCE ESSENCE

For For drinks, drinks., the the ceremonial ceremonial was was equally equally complicated. complicated. When the the king called for for a drink, drink, the the cup cup bearer hearer made made a sign to the the wine butler and his his assistant. The first first of of these thes.e brought the the wine in in a flagon, and the king's king's glass, covered; the the second brought brought a silver silver jug jug full full of of water. The cup bearer bearer took took the glass and uncovered uncovered it; il; the wine wine butler butler poured poured in in the the wine, wine, then then the water. water. The cup bearer poured poured some sorne of of this this watered wine into into two little little silver-gilt cups. cups. He He drank drank from one; the wine butler buller drank from the other. Only OnJy then then did d id the the cup bearer bearer proffer proffer the the cup, now covered covered once more, more, across the table to to the king. He did not not uncover it it until until the very moment moment that the king was about to to drink. drink. The same same ceremonial took lOok place place for the queen. By special favour, Louis Louis XIV bestowed bestowed the same prerogative prerogative upon the dauphine dauphine (the (the wife of the heir to the throne). throne).

'Take a deep saucepan. saucepan. Put in 2 slices of Bayonne ham. ham. Place Place on on top a noix of veal veal and 2 partridges. Add enough stock to ta cover caver the veal only. Boil down the liquid rapidly. Move Move the the pan to a cooler cooler part of the stove to extract exlract all the juice juice from the the contents. contents. When the the stock is reduced to ta a coating coating on the bottom of veal with the pan, remove remove itil from the stove. Prick Prick the nox noix of ofveal the the point of of a knife knife so sa that that its its juice juice mingles mingles with the the essence. Put Put the saucepan saucepan back on the stove stove on a low heat and leave for about I1 hour. Watch Watch the essence as it gradually gradually turns to to a clear red colour. 'To simplify simplify this operation, operation, scrape offa little of the essence with the point of aa knife. Roll it it between the fingers. fingers. If If it it rolls into a ball, bail, the essence is perfectly perfectly reduced. reduced. If If it is not, nOl, it will stick the fingers fingers together. 'Remove the saucepan saucepan from the stove and put it aside for 15 minutes for the essence to cool. It will then dissolve more readily. Fill Fil! the saucepan with clear c1ear soup or stock and and heat heal very slowly. As soon as itil comes cornes to the boil,skim boil, .skim it, il, and pour pour 2ladles into inlo aa roux.' For the 1he preparation of this ronx: roux: 'Melt 100 g. (4 oz., !i cup) butter and add to it sieved flour "up) to Lo make aa rather liquid roux. Put it it on aa low heat, heat, stirring of the from from time time to to time time so sn that that little liltle by by little little the the whole whole of mixture turns a golden colom. colour. When adding the liquid, do rorx must not be on the stove while you not forget rorgel that Ihat the roux stock; but it are mixing are mixi ng in in the first spoonfuls of stock; it should be put on later, so that it may be added boiling boiliDg hot to the the rest of the stock. roux, stir the roux, 'When 'When the 2 ladles ladIes of stock are poured into the so as to ta make the mixture mixture perfectly smooth. Now pour it into Add parsley and and spring the the veal noix. noix. Add the saucepan with with the seasoned wilh with j bay leaf, onions, seasoned Ieaf, aa little liule thyme, 2 chives, and mushroom mushroom trimmings. Leave to simmer, stirring frequently. full hour skim off the fat. 30 minutes later skim off After a full the fat fat again. 'Strain through cloth into a bowl, stirring from time to Ihrough aa clolh on the that no no scum scum forms on time with spoon so so that time with aa wooden spoon is exposed to to the the sauce sauce is surface, as as easily easily happens when the surface, (Extract from entries royal; Traiti des entrées from le le Pdtissier air.' (Extracl air.' Pâtissier royal:

and volatile, ESSENCE ESSENCE - A A liquid, liquid, usually usually oily oily and volatile, extracted by the distillation distillation of vegetable substances in in water: water: essence of cinnamon, of anise, cinna mon, lemon, oranges, oranges, roses, roses, etc. Essences Essences are are used used in in aromatherapy aromatherapy to to combat combat various various complaints. Fifteen Fifteen of these appear appear in the Codex. Anchovy essence. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE D'ANcHoIs D'ANCHOIS - A A commercial commercial product product which is used in the preparation preparation of of Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, and to Compound butters'S BUTTER, Compound (see butlers) and to flavour flavour certain sauces, sauces, stuffings, salads, etc. Bitter ahnond essence. essence. EssENcE ESSENCE D'AMANDES D'AMANDES e,utnrs AM12RES - A A

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product commercially. product which is made and sold co:mnnel'clDions - Infuse vinegar. pERsIL - Proceed as for for EssENcts DE DE PERSD.. Proceed as Parsley essence.. essence. ESSENCE Tarragon essence. Tarragon An infusion infusion of of D'EsrRlcoN - An essence. ESSENCE EssENcE D'ESTRAGON Tarragon essence. vinegar, strained strained and reduced. white wine or vÎnegar, fresh tarragon in whÎte g. Rub 500 500 g. ESSENcE DE DE TOMA ToMATES Tomato essence. esserrce. ESSENCE Tomato TES - Rub (generous 1I lb.) very ripe raw tomatoes through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. raw tomatoes pulp until ilit is reduced to half half ilS its volume. volume. Pass Pass reduced to Boil the the pulp pulp pressing hard Boil this this pulp hard with with aa spoon. spoon. Boil through aa sieve, sieve, pressing through Rub througb through syrupy consistency. consistency. Rub until it thickens thickens ta to aa syrupy until muslin. jelly kind of makes aa kind of jelly in this this way, way, tomato tomato pulp makes Cooked in Cooked days. It is used as for several as an an additional additional can be kept for several days. which can

chaudes.)

instead of of aa noix, veal is is used usod instead Nowadays, aa shoulder of veal (See SA SAUCE, usod În in the the stock. stock. (See and partridge Îsis not and not used VeE, DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) sauce. See See al50 also DEMI-ESPAGNOLE.) Espagnole sauce.

proof a1cohol. alcohol. ESPRIT-DE-VIN -- 84" praof ESPRIT·DE-VlN

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high dignitary A servant servant or or high ESQUIRE TRENCHANT -- A great in great In former former tÎmes, times, in at ceremonial banquets. banquets. In at (or écuyer trenchant) was was icuyer trenchant) households, the trenchant (or the esquire esquire trenchani hOlllsehQ.lds, households, the in rank. rank. ln In lesser households, second to to the the major-domo major-domo in second two offices were combined. two

",",-",-,,-,.....,..a;.,

officiating uU~'''><''JJ.'5

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ESSAI or ESSAY -- The The essai essai at at the French royal courts was ESSAl the ceremony the king's food food and drink. The The cups ceremony of of lasting tasting the which were were used for tasting tasting wines etc. were were alsa also ca called used for wines etc. which lied essais. poison in gave rise The fear fear of in the the Middle Middle Ages Ages gave rise to to aa of poison The the sovereign's sovereign's meals. complicated ceremonial ceremonial attending attending the In France, this minutely regulated regulated by by court etiquette, court etiquette, this was was minutely In continued with slighl slight modifications modifications up up to to the the Revoluwhich continued tion, ta to be be revived revived under under the the Empire. tion, spices, and napkin knife, fork, The knife, fork, spoon, salt salt cellar, cellar, spices, and napkin The (q.v.) Of locked in in tbe the cadenas (q.v.) or nef(q.v.). nef (q.v.). were locked The maÎlre maitre d'hôlel the cutlery and the the dishes dishes d'h6tel rubbed cutlery and rubbed ail all the The with baUs balls of breadcrumbs which he made sure sure were eaten by which he were eaten by with had subjected the squires squires of subjected of the the pantry, who, who, previously, had the the servants servants who who had handed them them the the dishes to to the the same same the

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it

ordeal. ordeal. 363 363

ESTAMINET ESTAMINET ingredient for for sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and other other mixtures. mixtures. ingredient Trufle essence. essence. ESSENCE EssENcE DE peelings DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- Truflle Truffie peelings Truffle infused in in Madeira Madeira or or any any other other heavy heavy wine. wine. infused

caused, especially especially in in wine, wine, by by too too long long exposure exposure to to the caused, the air. air. The taste taste of of évent ivent isis the the washy flavour in washy flavour in wine wine which which has has lost lost The its aroma aroma through through oxidation. oxidation. its

ESTAMINET given in Name given in former former times times in in France France to to EST AMINEf -- Name patrons were permitted to cafes where where patrons were permitted to smoke. smoke. cafés Nowadays, the the word word isis used used of of aa basement basement lavern. tavern. Nowadays,

EVERLASTING PEA. PEA. JAROSSE, JARossE, JAROUSSE JARous$ -- Popular Popular name name EVERLASTING for the the cultivated cultivated vetch. vetch. ln In France, France, itit isis also also sometimes sometimes for called Auvergne Auvergne len/il. lentil. called

ESTOUFFADE -- Name Name applied applied bolh to aa dish both 10 dish whose whose ESTOUFFADE ingredients are are slowly slowly stewed, stewed, and and to to aa clear clear brown brown stock stock ingredients used to to dilute dilute sauces sauces or or toto moisten moisten braised braised meat meat and and used ragofrts. ragoûts. ESTOUFT'AT -- Languedoc Languedoc dialect dialect fonn form of of the the word word ESTOUFFAT (dish stewed ituvie (dish stewed very very slowly). slowly). In In that that region region itit isis mainlv mainly étuvée used to to design designate pork. stew of of haricot haricot beans beans and and pork. used a te aa stew EfOUfffn -- Method Method of of cooking food in cooking food in aa tightly tightly c10sed closed ÉTOUFFÉE vessel with very little little Iiquid with very liquid or or ev even without liquid, liquid, often often vessel en without called àd l'élUvée. l'ituvie. called given in ffOUnOnAU -- Name parts of Name given in sorne some parIS of France France ta to aa ÉTOURnEAU young capon. capon. young

EWE. BREBIS BREBIs -- The young, isis used The flesh flesh of of aa ewe, ewe, when EWE. when young, used as as (q.v.). ordinary mutton mutton (q.v.). ordinary In sorne some regions regions of of south·western south-western France, France, ewe's ewe's meat ln meat isis pickled in pork. in the the same same way way as as pork. pickled EWER. AIGUIÈRE ucurinr -- Vesse! Vessel for for containing containing water EWER. water for for service service at table. table. The The word word aiguière aiguidre cornes comes from from Old Old French French aigue at aigue (water). (water). goes back The ewer ewer goes back to to antiquity. antiquity. Ils Its main main features features have have The not changed general, ilit is changed much. much. In In general, is aa vessel vessel of of elongated elongated form, form, not with base, base, handle handle and precious stones, and spout. spout. Gold, Gold, precious stones, and the and the wilh finest enamels enamels were were used used for for the the ewers ewers on on the the tables tables of finest of the the past centuries. French nobility in in past centuries. One One of of the the most most beautiful beautiful French examples is is in in chased chased silver silver and part of and was was pari of the the treasure examples in 1830 at at Berthonville, Berthonville, near Bernay, Bernay, in in Ihe the Eure. Eure. discovered in It is kept kept in in the the museum of of medals in in the French Bibliothèque Bibliothdque l! Nationale.

(See ÉTOUFFÉE.) EfWfn -- Method Method of of cooking cooking food. food. (See irourreE.) ÉTUVÉE

EfWnn -- To To cook cook food food in pan, without in aa covered covered pao, without liquid. liquid. ÉTUVER This method method is is suitable suitable for for aIl poultry, all kinds kinds of of meat, meat, poultry, This vegetables, and and fruit. fruit. A A little little butter, butter, fat f,at or or oil oil should should be vegetables, added. added.

EXCELSIOR -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. EXCELSIOR EXOCOBTUS. EXOCET rxocrr -- This This fish, fish, commonly commonly known known as EXOCOETUS. prepared in is edibJe. edible. It It isis prepared in the the same flying fish, is same way way as flyinS fish, mackerel (q.v.).

EUPHORISM. EUPHORISME eupHoRrsME - Euphorism Euphorism is is aa new art of of EliPHORISM. new art living that aims aims to to encourage encourage the the expansion expansion of of Ihe the human living that personality physical and and moral moral equilibrium. equilibrium. In In its persona lity through through physical attempt to to cultivate joie de cultivate an an optirnistic optimistic outlook outlook of of joie fu vivre vivre attempt good humour, and good euphorism depends depends 10 to aa large and humour, euphorism large extent on gastronomy. gastronomy. Doctor Pierre Vachet, disciple of of this Doctor Pierre Vachet, aa disciple this philosophy, philosophy, believes that gastronomy has an important imporlant r6le rôle to play play in belleves that gastronomy has an the happiness. Like of happiness. Like art, art, it it has has its ilS rules; rules; whether the pursuit pursuit of itit proposes simple country proposes a a simple country meal meal or or a a sumptuous sumptuous banquet, the satisfied. the taste tasle buds buds and and the Ihe mind mind must must be be equally equally satisfied. The The gourmet gourmet generally generally knows knows very very well weil how how to to blend the delights delights of of the the palate palate with wilh visual visu al and and mental mental stimulation. stimulation. The The pleasure pleasure it it gives gives him him to to taste tasle wines wines and and savour savour the chefs-d'euvre French cuisine chefs·d'œuvre of of French cuisine can can be be likened likened to to the joy joy other other people people derive denve from from listening hstemng to ta a a beautiful beautiful symphony symphony gazing at or or gazing at aa fine fine painting. painting. The author of of Maladies Maladies de de Ia la vie vie moderne moderne declares: declares: 'Taste 'Taste The author and and flavours flavours are are precious precious elements eJemenlS of of euphorism euphorism for, for, when properly applied, properly applied, our our sense sense of of taste tas te adds adds greatly greatly to 10 our our physical physicai and and psychic psychic pleasure. pleasure. 'The 'The sense sense of of taste tasle should should therefore therefore be be educated and cultivated cultivated to to aa great great extent extent in in order order to to develop develop the the taste las te buds, buds, so 50 that that we we learn lcarn to to appreciate appreciate each each separate separate flavour flavour of of whatever whatever we we consume. consume. By Dy analysing analysing the the qualities qualities and and defects defects of of food, food, by by knowing knowing how how truly truly to 10 savour savour aa wine, wine, we we shall shall acquire acquire through through practice practice a a much much wider wider range range of of sensory sensory resources. resources. 'Only 'Only by by this trus kind kind of of education education and and discipline discipline can can gastronomy gastronomy take take its ils rightful rightful place place in in the the epicurism epicurism of of modern modern times, limes, euphorism.' euphorism.' There There isis aa Euphorists' Euphorists' Club. Club. EVnf.m ÉVENT -- French French name name for for the the deterioration deterioration which which isis

EXTRACT. EXTRAIT ExrRArr -- Product Product obtained obtained by by evaporating evaporating EXTRACr. juice. The cooking stock of meat, boiled animal or vegetable vegetable juice. alllmai pan, is coating in the the pan, is an an extract. down to aa coaling The extracts most commonly commonly used used are those of beef, veal, poultry and and game. poultry Extracts are called essences or .fumets. The term fish are fumels. The lerm Extracls of fish extended to can be cover concentra concentrated can be extended to coyer ted vegetable vegetable essences essences which wltich are made from root vegetables vegelables and from mushrooms, tomatoes, toma tocs, and truffies. Iruffies. Among the vegetable vegetable extracts used in the kitchen is soya soya sauce if added added to 10 coulis (q.v.), ragofrts ragoûts (q:v.), and sauce which, if other other meat meal or or vegetarian vegetarian dishes, dishes, enhances enhances their their flavour without destroying destroying their own particular taste. Chicken exhact. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE - Boil Boil down clear chicken stock in the same way as indicated indicaled in the recipe recipe for Meat Meal extracl extract (see (sec below). Fish Fish extract. exlracl cLAcE GLACE DE DE porssoN POISSON -- See See ESSENCE, ESSENCE, Frs& Fish essence. essence. Game extract. exlracl. cLAcE GLACE DE DE GTBTER GlBIER -- Boil Boil down dowll clear game game stock in in the the same way as as for Meat Meal extract exlracl (see (see below). below). Meat Meat extract. exlract. cLAcE GLACE DE DE VTANDE VIANDE -- Boil down to to half half its its volume 10 litres (9 (9 quarts, quarts, llIl quarts) quarts) brown brown stock. stock. Remove Remove volume l0litres all as possible. possible. Strain Strain through through ail fat, fal, leaving leaving the the stock stock as as clear clear as muslin, and boil boil down down further. further. Strain, Slrain, and and repeat repeat the the musli n, and procedure of aa spoon. spoon. Each Each procedure until untiJ the the stock stock coats coats the the back back of time is strained, strained, transfer transfer the the stock stock to to aa smaller smaller saucepan, saucepan, time itit is and and reduce reduce the the heat heat as as the the stock stock thickens. thickcns. Pour Pour the the extract extract into into little little jars jars and and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. place. Meat Meat extrrcts exlracts (commercially (commerciaUy prepared). prepared). ExrRArrs EXTRAITS DE DE VHNDE VIANDE DU DU coMMERcr COMMERCE -- These These extracts, exlracts, which which are are manumanufactured in household household factured commercially, commercially, are are mainly mainly used used in kitchens. kitchens.

3g 364

centre Europe. of the the faïence faience industry industry in in Europe. centre of pottery, made pottery, called Fine made its its appearance appearance Fine pottery, called clay clay pottery, towards and this this century, and the middle middle of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century, towards the industry in the towns fully developed developed in in England, England, in the towns industry was was most most fully pottery was of of pottery In France, France, this this type type of was of Leeds Leeds and and Burslem. Burslem. In made and Lun6ville and at Pont-aux-Choux, Paris, Lunéville mdde especially especially at Pont-aux-Choux, Paris, Orléans. Orl6ans. With vent of porcelain, faïence less soughtsoughtfaience became became less With the the ad advent of porcelain, after faience manuhighly-prized. But But modem modern faïence manuafter and and less less highly-prized. pottery. facturers given aa new new lease lease of life to to this this type type of of pottery. facturers have have given of life

FAGOUE -- Name Name given given in to the tripe-trade to FAGOLIE in the the French French tripe-trade

pancreas, and sometimes pancreas, calves' sweetbreads. sometimes to calves'

FAÏENCE whitish in which isis whitish FA'IENCE -- Opaque type type of pottery which colour or tinted. The earthenware glaze tin glaze earthenware is is covered covered with with tin (lead glaze made opaque ashes) so that opaque by the addition of tin ashes) the masked. This This the colour of the the earthenware isis completely masked. pottery takes its Faenza. from the the Italian town town of of Faenza. its name from Very faience pottery, the origins of faïence Very little isis known known about the but vitreous lead lead times aa brilliant, brilliant, vitreous but from from the earliest times very earliest the very glaze, coloured by means of metallic oxides, known to to oxides, was was known potters. It is be seen in the of Ancient Egypt, Egypt, is to be seen in the hypogeum of on glazd bricks and also also on on the the glazed on its its vases, vases, funeral funeral images, and which and Babylon. walls of Nineveh and which decorated decoratod the the walls The preserved for have preserved for Asia Minor Minor have The ancient mosques of Asia us the Persians, Persians, who who of the craftsmanship of us the the magnificent magnificent craftsmanship passed passed on the Arabs. to the on their their skill skill to From the thirteenth centres there were were important centres thirteenth century there for Malaga and and faience in in Spain, Spain, at at Malaga for the the manufacture of faïence manufacture of Majorca, majolica. Up Up to to its name to to the the Italian Italian majolica. Majorca, which gave its the in famous factories were were in the most most famous the seventeenth seventeenth century the Valencia. of tin tin discovery of mainly through through the the discovery Valencia. But But itit was was mainly glaze glazn by the middle middle of of the the towards the Robbia towards by Luca Luca della della Robbia fifteenth to industry was was able able to that the the ceramic ceramic industry fifteenth century, century, that develop, various other other Italian Italian and then then in in various first at at Faenza Faenza and develop, first towns, Druta, Durante, Durante, Venice, Venice, Gubbio, Druta, notably Urbino, Urbino, Gubbio, towns, notably Milan Milan and and Turin. Turin. ln pottery called faience pottery called sixteenth century, century, faïence In France, France, in in the the sixteenth Henry being the the was made, made, the the most most important being Henry II II faïence faience was very individual pieces pieces made During the the Bernard Palissy. Palissy. During made by by Bernard same potters tried period Italian faience to introduce introduce the the faïence ltalian potters tried to same period industry from Savona, Savona, The Conradi, coming from Conradi, coming industry into into France. France. The settled to make make faïence faience attempts to abortive attempts settled at at Nevers. Nevers. Early Early abortive in was sixteenth century, century, but but itit was Rouen were made in in the the sixteenth in Rouen were made only produced the the century that that this this town town produced only in in the the seventeenth seventeenth century beautiful glories of the of the the glories of the which remain remain one one of beautiful specimens specimens which French very fashionable fashionable in in the the These were were very French faïence faience industry. industry. These eighteenth in copied everywhere, everywhere, both both in and were were copied eighteenth century century and France the Moustiers, from from the the end end of of the countries. Moustiers, France and and other other countries. seventeenth pieces in style faience pieces in the the style made famous famous faïence century, made seventeenth century, ofTempesta, from Bernard Bernard Toro. Toro. from Bérain B6rain and and from of Tempest4 or or copied copied from At Hannong the Hannong century, the in the the eighteenth eighteenth century, At Strasbourg, Strasbourg, in family quickly adopted the adopted by by the family created style which which was was quickly created aa style facto ries of Niederwiller. In In Paris, Paris, SaintSaintfactories and Niederwiller. of Lunéville Lun6ville and Cloud, were also also aa Marseille, there there were Meudon, Lille, Lille, and and Marseille, Cloud, Meudon, large important factories. factories. large number number of less important of less Outside produced at at finest work work was was produced France, sorne some of of the the finest Outside France, Delft the most most active active for aa long long time, time, the Holland, which was, for Delft in in HoHand, which was,

FAISANDAGE FAISANDAGE -- French for red red meat French term term for in the the condition condition meat in which, 'high'. ItIt isis derived whictU in in England, England, isis known known as as 'high'. derived from from faisan (pheasant). faisan (pheasant). When pheasant isis tough When itit isis fresh, tough and and without without much much fresh, pheasant ftavour. grows tender flavour. ItIt grows develops after tender and and its its aroma aroma develops after itit has has been been hung, hung, the length of of time depending upon upon the the temperatemperathe length time depending ture. pheasant isis no hung, as as advocated advocated ture. Nowadays, Nowadays, pheasant no longer longer hung, by 'until itit develops develops aa marked marked smell'. smell'. Montaigne, 'until by Montaigne, ln pheasant was was not In Brillat-Savarin's time, pheasant not considered fit Brillat-Savarin's time, considered fit for gastronome's table for the the gastronome's table except except in in aa state state of of complete complete putrefaction. putrefaction. This This authority authority recommends, recommends, in in effect, effect, that that itit should green, so should be be kept, kept, unplucked, unplucked, until until its its breast breast turns turns green, so that held together that for for roasting roasting on on the the spit spit itit has has to to be be held together by by aa slice slice of of bread bread tied tied on on with ribbon. with ribbon. Apart Apart from from aa few few sportsmen sportsmen in in love love with with tradition, tradition, most most people people have have today today abandoned abandoned these these excesses. excesses. Winged game, when game and ground game, for aa certain hung for Winged game and ground when hung certain length pheasant. length of acquire aa ftavour flavour similar similar to to that that of of pheasant. of time, time, acquire This properly high isis properly habit of This habit of hanging hanging meat meat until until itit isis high reprehended reprehendod by those concerned concerned with hygiene, and and also also by by by those with hygiene, the gastronome. the true true gastronome. FAISANDEAU pheasant. FAISAhIDEAU -- Young Young pheasant. FAIS ELLE. FAISSELLE pottery basket used for for basket used Osier or or pottery FAIssELLE -- Osier FAISELLE. draining residue the apple apple residue on which which the Also the the table table on draining cheese. cheese. Also isis drained brewing of of cider. cider. drained after after the the brewing FALCON. prey, trained hunt on on the the trained to to hunt FAUcoN -- Bird Bird of of prey, FALCON. FAUCON wing. and the French French botanist botanist and to Tournefort, Tournefort, the wing. According According to traveller, (165G1708), itit isis delicate be need not not be delicate to to eat eat and and need traveller, (1656--1708), hung. hung. FALERNIAN celewine celeFALERNIAN WINE. Campagna wine WINE. FALERNE FALERNE -- Campagna brated poet Horace. brated in in verse verse by Horace. by the the poet FALLOW-DEER. FALLOW-DEER. DAIM DAtIra -- Wild Wild ruminant, ruminant, somewhat somewhat rare rare in in France. France. ItIt isis known known as as afawn afawn up up to to eight eight months. months. ItIt loses loses its grown. AA fully grown fallowits horns horns twice fully grown. twice before before itit isis fully fully grown·fallow365 365

FAIENCE FAïENCE

FAYENCE TABLEWARE TABLEWARE FAIENCE From top (op to 10 bottom: bOllom: Antique Antique faience faïence of of Nevers, Nevers, Strasbourg, Strasbourg, From Rouen; Modern Modern fai'ence faïence from from Jean Jean Luce Luce Rouen;

366

FAT

It11

deer can be recognised by the palms between between the the branches branches of its antlers. The female female of the fallow-deer fallow-deer is is called a doe. the The meat of young fallow-deer very delicate. delicate. That That of orthe fallow-deer is very full-grown animal is leathery leathery arxC and must must be be steeped steeped in in a marinade. All AU recipes for roebuck (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for fallow-deer. fallow-deer. Roast RoaSi haunch baunch of of fallow-deer faUow-deer IIl I'anglaise. HANcm HANCffi DE DE DAIM DAIM n0rrs RÔTŒ .i, À L'ANGLAIs L'ANGLAISE - The haunch haunch of fallow-deer fallow-deer (venison) (venÎson) is highly prized in England England and is hung for quite quite a long time until it is high. ItIl keeps very well weil for several days ifif care is taken to hang it in aa room room well weli aired airOO by a draught. Before hanging, the venison should be rubbed rubbOO all ail over with a mixture of flour and pepper. The The purpose purpose of of the flour is to keep out the damp and that of the pepper is i5 to keep keep away the flies. Before impaling the venison on the spiq spit, trim triro it and coat with ordinary flour-and-water paste. paste. Wrap it, coated with this securOO with several lengths of of lhis mixture, mlxture, in thick paper secured string. Roast for 4 hours, basting frequently. frequently. (Care (Care must be taken not to cut cUI the fat fat offthe off Ihe venison. The fatter it is the fa \ter il Ihe better.) better.) Ten minutes minutes before before removing T"PYT"lA'VII110 the roast from the spit, Ten ofl the unwrap unwrap it it and and scrape off the flour-and-water paste. Pour salt and sprinkle with salt and sprinkle melted over the venison venîson and meltoo butter over il doser thal it il is well weil browned. flour. Put it closer to the fire so that serve boiled With roast haunch of venison, it is is usual usual to serve and redcurrant jelly. chestnut pur6e, and French or chestnut French beans beans or Haunch of stag is is cooked in the same way, but is is less highly prized prizOO than than that of fallow-deer.

can a breast breast of of veal veal with with can also also be be made made by by stuffing a

forcemeat, cooking itit in in the the liquid Iiquid of forcemeat. cooking

a

pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.).

-

- Containing flour l'lOlif or or with with aa high starch rontent. Cereals, Cereals. pulses, and potatoes potatoes are are usually usually starch content. referred to as farinaceous farinaceous foods.

FARINACEOUS. FARINACEOUS. rlnNeux FARINEUX

FARINADA fARINADA (Genoese (Genoese cookery) cookery) -- Gruel Gruel made made from from the flour f10ur of of large large white white peas. peas. When cooked itil is poured pourOO onto an oiled oilOO board, board, cut cut into into equal-sized pieces, pieces, and and served served as as it il is. is. It is FARO FAROis relatively relatively - Belgian beer, only slightly fermented. 1t sour and often has sugar added to it. il.

FAR FAR POITEVIN - A A kind kÎnd of farci (q.v.) made in Poitou from and herbs (sorrel, green cabbage, from green vegetables vegetables and white beet tops, tops. lettuce). lettucc). These These are are shredded raw, raw, mixed with pork fat, fat, blended blendOO with with cream cream and and eggs, eggs, with chopped choppOO pork flavoured chives and parsley, parsley, highly highly seasoned, seasonOO, ftavoured with chopped chives and wrapped in green cabbage leaves leaves and lettuce leaves lcaves (put (put in a net). It is then cooked in a hotpot containing fresh rresh and salt pork and flavoured with vegetables. (U.S. shell) FASEOLE haricot (V.S. shell) bean, cultivated cultivated FASÉOLE - Species of haricot in southem southern regions. Prepared in the same same way as as Fresh Presh white haricot beans (see BEAN).

at a substance which softens at FAT. cnusse FAT. GRAISSE - Greasy substance a low low and in some in animal temperature. It is temperature. Il is found found in animal tissue tissue and in sorne vegetable vegetable substances. animal tissue. all muscular animal There are are fats fats in in almost ail tissue. Fat Fal It fOnTIS forms deposits equal also surrounds many animal organs. It whole of the who to at at least aa thirtieth of the weight of to thirtieth of le body. stearin, olein There are three Ih ree principal constituents in fat: fat: stearin, normal temperatures, solid at at normal and margarine. Stearin Stearrn is and is solid consistency. olein is liquid, margarine has intermediate intermediate consistency. foods and they of al! all foods and they calorific value of Fats have the highest highest calorific the their being the cheap, but but two usually cheap, are usually are two factors factors prevent their of satiety more most valuable of aIl. all. They produce a feeling of only tolerate aa foods, and the system can only rapidly than other foods. (toleration pointvaries from individual limited amount offal of fat (toleration point varies from îndividual Iimited to individual). to natural fats: of na must conlam contain a proportion The normal ddiet iet must proportion of tmal fats: (3 oz.) daily for for an adult. of 75 g. (3 an average of75 greater amount amount i5 is neOOed. needed. cold countries aa far In very cold far greater produced in in All falS fats produced o'fcoNotuIe -- AU fat. GRAISSE cRAIss D'ÉCONOMIE Economy fat. Economy kinds, of various kînds, preparation of and dripping ofvarious of pot-au-feu, the preparation pOI-au-feu, and preserved. collected and preserved. be carefully collected should he used in the cooking of of Once they are clarified, they can be usOO aa variety of dishes. fat skim off off aIl all the the fat economy fal. Clarification of economy Clarification fal. Carefully skim fine sieve sieve through aa fine of lhe the stock stockpot. on the the surface of on pot. Strain Îlit through to get cold cold overnight. Leave itit to bowl. Leave into an an earthenware bowl. into pour off, off, fat in in 2 places and and pour Next day, prick the of fat the layer of Next underneath the the liquid which isis underneath all the liquid holes, ail through the holes, fat. congealed fat. '-V'''I'i''<'''"'''' in the the cooking cooking liquid, the the fal fat can can be usOO used in its liquîd, Separated from ilS 'Pl"'''T·'''''''' (it Îsis especially rccommendOO for braisOO recommended for braised vegetables (it of vegetables of be used used for for frying. cannot be unless clarified, cannot cabbage) but, uoJess process as for frying, frying, proccss as follows: fat is is 10 to be used for When fat heat, then over low heat, Melt the fat in saucepan first.over low then over in aa sauce the fat Melt pan firstover giving off stops giving off higher flame. flame. Keep Keep on on the the boil boil until until itit stops aa hîgher pan remove the the pan steam. As As soon soon as as the the steam steam stops stops rising, rcmove steam. the fat fat wiU and acquîre acquire aa from the otherwise the will bum and stove; otherwise the stove; from sieve or or muslin, muslin. Pour Pour fine sieve bitter fiavour. flavour. Strain Strain through through aa fine bitter place. and store store in in aa cool. cool, dry dry place, into an an earthenware earthenware bowl bowl and into further improved improved by by the the addition addition of of aa third third This fat fat can can be be funher This lard. of its its weight of of lard. of rntrunr -- Generally Generally made made from from Frying fst GRAISSE cRAIss ÀA FRITURE (suet). clarified beef kidney kidney fat fat (suet).

(Confectionery) -FANCHETTE or or FANCHONNETTE (COnfectiOIlCry) FAI\CHETTE is scarcely gdteau, which was very popular in Ihe the past, is This gâteau, It is excellent. Il This is ever made made today. today. This is aa pity because ilit is is excellent. ever for used for to that that usOO round baking tin tin similar ta deep, round in aa deep, made made in hot pdtis. pâlés. Line a baking tin with flaky pastry dough which has been Fill this times. Fill rolled out out and folded into 3 upon itself, 6 times. rollOO cream, crust with a cream which is made like French pastry cream, (4 oz., g. (4 yolks, 100 100 g. 12 egg egg yolks, ingredients: 12 with the the following ingrOOients: with (4 oz., g. (4 flour, 5 dl. oz., 1I cup) flour, scant cup) powdered sugar, 100 g. (scant pint,Zlcups) frestr thick cream, cream, 1I tablespoon vanillaofsalt. flavoured sugar, a pinch of salt. is cold, cold, cover cover When itit is slow oven. oven. When the gdteau in aa slow Bake Bake the meringue piped top with with meringue the top Decorate tbe meringue. Decorate with with meringue. Brown in in the sugar. Brown with sugar. Sprinkle with forcing bag. bag. Sprinkle through aa forcing oven. Serve warm. wann. subbe submay be cream, elc. etc. may or almond almond cream, Coffee, chocolate, chocolate, or stituted for vanilla cream. green or or dry, dry, the stalks, stalks, green in France France to to the FAI\FS - Name given in for fodder. of plants nol not cultivated for edible. Turnip Turnip stalks stalks are edible. The fanes of sorne some pot vegetables are (turnip tops) can only if if they they are are like spinach, spinach, but only can be cooked cooked lîke (turnip soup is made From from radish radish 10ps, tops. is made tender. An An excellent excellent soup tender. on must appear appear on In France, France,thewordfantalsre FAI{TAISIE FANT A ISlE -- In the wordfanlaisie must jams etc.). products (fantaisie liqueurs, jams etc.). label of synthetic produclS the label piece and not the piece and not sold by the France is is bread sold Pantaisie in France Fantaisie bread in by weight.

flour. The The Lerm term isis from hard-wheat l'lour. made from FAR -- Porridge Porridge made FAR (tart) made made in in Brittany. Brittany. used for for aa flan flan (tart) also usOO also in It isis cooked cooked in south of of France. France. Il in the the south Dish made made in FFARCI ARCl -- Dish form, its most most usual usual form, prepared in In its in different different ways. ways. In stock and and prepared stock other meat or or sorne some olher sausage meat stuffod with with sausage farci isis cabbage the thefarci cabbage stuffed (U.S. cheesecloth) and cheesecloth) and in muslin muslin (U.S. forcemeat, wrapped in forcemeat. cooked in in stock. cooked (see SOUFASSUM). Farci can SOUFASSUM). nigoise (see can also la niçoise also be prepared àd la Farci 367 367

FATTENING FATTENING FATTENING. ENGRAISSEMENT sNcRArssEMENr -- Fattening process of Fattening isis the the process of FATTENING. preparing animais animals for for slaughter slaughter by by increasing increasing their their weight weight preparing quality of and improving improving the thequality of their their flesh. flesh. This This isis made and mademore more nourishing and and flavoursome flavoursome by penetration of by the the penetration nourishing of fat fat between the the muscles, muscles, and and inside inside the the muscles muscles themselves. themselves. between

Bulbous Bulbousstem stem

offennel offennel

FAUBONNE -- AA thick thick soup soup made pur6e of made with with purée FAUBONNE of white white (U.S. shell) julienne of haricot (V.S. shell) beans plainjulienne beans with with aaplain haricot of vegetables vegetables (See SOVPS added. (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.) added. (Wild animais) I'AWES (Wild animals) -- French French hunting hunting tenn term used FAUVES used espeespecially of of animais animals of of the the deer family, such deer family, cially such as as stag, stag, fallow-deer, fallowdeer, chamois, and and roebuck, roebuck, as as opposed game such opposed to chamois, to black black game such as as boar, and game such and red red game such as fox. as fox. boar,

Fennel Fennelwith with bone-marrow. bonemarrow. FENOUIL FENourL ÀA LA ruoerrB-- Braise rl MOELLE Braise in (see below). in meat meat stock stock (see below). Complete Completecooking cooking as asfor forCardoons Cardoons with (seeCARDOON). with marrow marrow (see CARDOON). Fennel Fennel braised braised in in meat meat stock. stock. FENOUIL FENourL AU AU GRAS cRAs - - Trirn Trim the the fennel fennel stems. stems. Parboil Parboil for for 55 minutes minutes inin boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Cool Cool under under running running water. water. Drain, Drain, and and dry dry inin aa clotho cloth. Quarter them or, or, ifif they they are are small, small, leave leave whole. whole. Put Put them thern in in Quarter them an an ovenproof ovenproof dish pork skin, dish lined lined with with pork skin, and and sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots. carrots. Moisten Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons rather rather fat fat stock. stock. Bring Bring to to the the boil. pan and boil. Coyer Cover the the pan and cook cook slowly slowly in in the the oyen. oven. Fennel Fennel in in cream. FENourL ÀA LA cream. FENOUn.. u CRÈME cntrran -- Fennel Fennel stems, stems. simmered simmered in in butter butter or or braised braised in in meat meat stock stock as as indicated indicated above, put into above, can into aa cream can be be put cream sauce sauce and simmered for and simmered for aa few few minutes minutes before before serving. serving. Fennel gratin. FENOUIL Fennel au au gratin. FENourL AU AU GRATIN cRArrN -- Cook Cook the the fennel fennel stems stems in in butter butter or or braise braise in in meat meat stock. stock. Put Put them them in in aa buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish, dish, sprinkle grated cheese, sprinkle with with grated cheese, and and pour pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in the oven. the oyen. Fennel gravy. FENOUIL Fennel in in gravy. FENourL AU AU JUS JUs -- Braise Braise in in meat meat stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few minutes minutes in in concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Fennel grecque. FENOUIL Fennel ài la la grecque. FENourL À r.l, GRECQUE cnrceus -- Proceed A LA Proceed as as indicated indicated for grecque. (See for Artichokes Artichokes àd la (See ARTICHOKE.) la grecque. ARTICHOKE.) Fennel prepared in Fennel prepared in this this way way isis served served as as an an hors-d'oeuvre. hors-d'oeuvre.

FILEf, or FALIX FILET or CONTRE-FILET CONTRE-FILET -- See See BEEF, BEEF, Contre FAUX Contre filet. filet. FAVEROLLFS -- Name Name used used in in the the south FAVEROLLES south of France for of France for ail all (U.S. shell) kinds of haricot (V.S. of haricot shell) beans. beans. These These are kinds are also also called called and,favioles in this this region. region. faverottes favioles in faverottes and FAVRE -- Joseph Joseph Favre Favre was was not not only FAVRE only one greatest one of of the the greatest nineteenth-century chefs, chefs, but but also also one one of nineteenth-century of the the finest finest writers writers on culinary culinary matters. matters. He He was was the the author author of on of the the Dictionnaire Dictionnaire universel de de cuisine et d'hygiène cuisine et d'hygiine alimentaire, alimentaire, aa work universel in four work in four volumes, which contains contains not not only only aa large number volumes, number of recipes, of recipes, but aa very very interesting history history of of cookery. cookery. but Joseph Favre Favre was was also also the founder of the founder Joseph of the the first first Academy Academy of Cookery. His His bust bust was was moved moved to of to l'Académie I'Acadimie culinaire culinaire de de in 1953. 1953. France in FAWN. FAoN -- The The young of aa roe-doe, FA WN. FAON roe-doe, hind hind or or fallow-doe. preparation of of fawn, see ROEBVCK. For the preparation ROEBUCK.

FEDELIM -- Italian pasta pasta in FEDELINI in the the fonn form of narrow narrow ribbons. All recipes for macaroni (q.v.) are suitable for fedelini. Ali FEI\DANT (Wine) -- Name Name of aa Valais FENDANT Valais vine, vine, cultivated cultivated in the Vaud Vaud Canton the Canton in in Switzerland, Switzerland, said said to to be be aa variety variety of of Chasselas. Wine made made from from Fendant grapes has Fendant grapes has aa strong aroma and is very heady.

FENNEL-PEAR FENNELPEAR or or FENOWLET. FENOWLET. FENOUILLET FENouTLLET -- Variety Variety of of pear tes slightly pear which which tas tastes slightly of of aniseed. aniseed. Three Three varieties varieties are are grown grown in gris, fenouillet in France: fenouillet gros, and and the the fenouillet gris, fenouillet gros, fenouillet rouge. fenouillet rouge.

FENIYEL. FENourL -- Aromatic FENNEL. FENOUIL Aromatic flowering flowering umbelliferous umbelliferous plant Italian origin which is now widely cultivated. It has plant of ltalian aa slight flavour of aniseed. The edible part The part of this this plant plant is is the the very very fleshy fleshy bulbous stem at the base of leaf stalk. This stem, which in French of the leaf cookery cookery is is callod called fenouil fenouil tubéreux, which the tubireux, and and which the ltalians, Italians, who are very fond fond of it, finocchio, is is cooked like celery. it, cali call finocchio, It can eaten raw It can be be eaten raw or or cooked. cooked. In In England England it is called it is Florence Florence fennel. fennel. Both the bulbous stem and the leaves leaves of fennel plant of the fennel are are used used in cookery cookery to to flavour a a large large number of dishes. Fennel is an excellent condiment. condiment.

FENNEL-WATER. FENNBLWATER. FENOUILLETTE FENourLLErre -- Liqueur Liqueur made made comcommercially, mercially, obtained from from fennel fennel seeds. seeds. FENUGREEK. FENUGREC reNucREc -- Vnusual Unusual Asiatic Asiatic herb herb with with slightly slightly bitter bitter aromatic aromatic seeds seeds sometimes sometimes used used in in making making curry. curry. FÉRA fEna -- Breed of of salmon found found in in Lake Lake Geneva Geneva and and several several other lakes in in Switzerland, Bavaria, and and Austria. Austria. This fish fish is is similar to to the the laveret, laveret, but but the the two two differ differ in in body is is more shape. Theféra's Thefira'sbody more compact, compact, its its scales scales are larger, are larger, and itsjaws, back, are its jaws, sloping sloping obliquely obliquely back, are somewhat somewhat truncated. truncated. The colouring of féra varies varies with of the the fira with the the season, season, the the age age of the fish, and and its to distinguish of its habitat. It It is is easy easy to distinguish the the different different white fera is found in very deep waters; varieties because because the the white fera is found in very deep waters; the féra n in waters waters of average depth; féra, the black fera of average depth; the the blue blue fira, is really aayotngfira. youngféra, has has aa bluish rather than greenish which is bluish rather than greenish on the the upper upper part of of its its body. body. shimmer on

Sprig offennel of fennel Sprig

Féra

368 368

FESTIVE FESTIVECOOKERY cao KER y volumes. the list List for for themselves, themselves, by volumes. Readers Readers may expand the noting dishes they they discover dÎscover in in their noting the the recipes recipes of festive dishes travels. travels. We We have have drawn drawn largely largely from from the the Manuel Manuel de de folklore folklore contemporain contemporain (A. (A. et et J. J. Picard Picard et et Cie, Cie, Paris) Paris) by by A. A. Van Van Dictons Vieux (no and Gennep Gennep (no longer longer available), and Vieux Dictons de de nos nos campagiles (New Editions Editions of la Toison Toison d'Or, d'Or, 1952) 1952) by by G. G. campagnes (New Bidault of these these Bidault de de L'Isle. L'Isle. We We cannot cannot speak speak too too highly highly of works. works. Eprphany (6 January). iprprrlNIn ÉPIPHANIE -- The The Romans Romans usod used to 10 vote vote with beans, and it was was with with beans beans that that they chose cbose the tbe traditional of the the feast' fcast' at at the the Saturnalian Satumalian banquets: V<"''-I''''''~ Iraditional 'king 'king of the the king king being being the the one one who who drew drew the the bean. bean. This This pagan pagan form the different a slightly persisted in but ceremony "''''''Pn"'''M,\I persisted but in a slightly different form - the bean being placed in the the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake. cake. placed in About a century ago ago there there was was controversy over over the the origin origin of of this this ceremony. ceremony. Some maintained maintained that that the idea idea itself itself was was a better with forward no-one came Since blasphemous. blasphemous. Since no-one came forward with a better china explanation, srnall cbina explanation, the the bean bean was was hastily hastily replaced by aa small doll dol! which wbich was was meant meant to to represent represent the Child Child Jesus whom whorn the the Magi to adore adore on on this this day day of of Epiphany. Epiphany. Magi had bad come come to On this. long before detractors had its The The custom custom had it'> detractors long before lhis. On 30 30 December December 1972 1972 aa motion motion of of censure censure proposed by by the the citizen citizen Scipion Duroure encouraged encouraged the the councillors of of the the municimuniciScipion Duroure pality of Paris Paris to to pass pass aa decree decl'ee declaring dedaring that that from from 66 January January pa lit y of (feast Magi) the of des Rois te feast called 1793, 1793, the the feast ca lied fête des Rois (feast of the Magi) would would be des Sans-Culottes Sans-Culottes (feast of of the the Extrerne Extreme be called called flte des Republicans) "nllhllf'''n~l - and and the the bean bean continued to to be be drawn' drawn. And so so all over over France France and and in in many maoy other other countries countrÎes continues. cake continues. of the besides, besides, the the tradition tradition of the Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night cake The region. according to It It takes takes different differenl forms forms according to the the Tbe g0teau of cake; that of or fruit cake; is aa brioche for instance, of Sa Savoy, of voy, fol' instance, is brioche or its sugar among among ils candied sugar and candied cinnamon and Verviers has Verviers has cinnamon It gdteau belongs to Paris. Paris. lt pastry gâteau belongs to flaky pastry The flaky ingredients. The ingredients. resented the pdtissiers but the the bakers, bakers, but made by to he be made usod to usoo by the pâtissiers resented pdtissiers since since the pâtissiers side of of the the side was on on the and parliament was this, and this, bakers the bakers All the the same same the make il. it. Ail to make used to were uscd eggs were butter and eggs butter conthey con1914, they to about about 1914, up to and, up the day day and, won the eventually won eventually gdteau on January. on 66 January. the famous famous gâteau to seU sell the tinued to ünued of Saint Saint body of (22 January) the body Since the January) - Since Vincent (22 Saint Vincent Saint to then to and then to Burgundy and first to transferred .first was transferred Vincent was Vincent the become the naturally enough, become has, naturally saint has, this saint Champagne, rhÎs Champagne, people of of the people time the growers. At At one one time patron saint vine grewers. of the the vine saint of patron holding aa garpass without without holding let his his day day pass never let Burgundy never EarBurgundy this revived this du tâte-vin tite-vin revlved The Chevaliers Chevaliers du gantuan 'pig 'pig feast'. feast'. The ganluan 1934. in 1934. custom in custom to the custom custom to to be be the used to in Yonne. Yonne, ilit used At Ligny~le-Châtel. Ligny-le-Chatel in At the (the mirlOlné) with the along with pastry (the mirlouzQ along of pastry made of figure made offer aa figure offer daY. this day. on this bread on consecrated bread consecrated conVincent conof Saint Saint Vincent the feast feast of Mdcon, the of Mâcon, In the the region of In haricot made of of haricot was made which was couques which callod eouques of aa dish called sisted of sistoo made fritters made variety of of fntters goose fat, and aa variety fat, and in goose cookod in beans cooked beans thick there were were thick Sometimes there apples. Sometimes or apples. brioche, or with bread, bread, brioche, with pancakes called matefaims. called maœfaims. pancakes was once once aa (28 Janl.lsry) This was January) - This Saint Chrrlemagne (28 Saint those at at for those for schoolchildren especially for festival day day for festÎval (The held. (The great banquet banquet used to be beld. A great school. A boarding school. boarding the one one over the III presided over Napoleon III prince, son young prince, son of of Napoleon young and 'cbampagne' 'champagne' in 1868) and held at at the the lycee Louis-le-grand in held was address was An address was drunk ! An solely of bubbles was that consisted solely that day, next day, and next listened, and given inin Latin which nobody listened, Latin toto which given teachers, slumbering teachers, or slumbering by sick or presided over over by classes were were presided dasses for the the year. once again for satiated once Year. satiated Candlemasisis LECHANDELEUR cHANDELEIIR -- Candlemas Candlemas (2 February). LE Candlemas one on on M"ry; the theone Virgin Mary; of the the Virgin of the Purification of the Feast Feast of the (lachandelle) remembrance lit inin remembrance chandelle) isislit virginal candIe candle (la thevirginal which the which ofJerusalem, Jerusalern, inin temple of the temple Jesusatat the of Jesus the presentation of of the of pagln Roman limes times aapagan InRoman Moses. In law of of Moses. the law with the accordance with ~rr'Arf1!ll~"'p

The The Lake Lake Geneva Geneva fira féra is is the the most most highly highly prized. prized. Itlt isîs generally generally thought Ihought that that the the best best Lake Lake Geneva Genevafira féra are are those those caught sandbank called called the the Travers Travers where where the lhe water water caught on on the the sandbank isis very shallow shallow and and which which forms fonns aa barrier barrier across across the the lake lake near of Geneva. Geneva. This This fish, fish, which which fills iBis out out very very near the port port of rapidly rapidly by by feeding feeding on on aa winged winged insect insect callod called the the caddis-fly, caddis-fly, isis very very fat, fat, white, white, and and extremely extremely delicate. delicate. The The fishermen fishermen of of Geneva Geneva sell sell itit under under the the name name of of Fdra Féra du du Travers. Travers. F6ra Féra ià la la meunibre meunière -- Scale, Scale, gut, gut, and and wash wash the the fdra. féra. Dry Dry thoroughly in flour flour thoroughly and and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in and in fresh fresh butter bulter over over aa moderate moderate heat. heat. and cook cook in Baste Baste frequently frequently with with the the cooking butter. butter. When When cooked, cooked, drain drain the the fish fish and and sprinkle with with choppod parsley. Pour Pour on on aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and and the the cooking butter, piping hot. hot. Serve at once. once. Serve at

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FERCHUSE FERCHlJSE - Culinary speciality speciality of of Burgundy. Irt In former former il was was traditionally made made on 00 the Ihe day when the the pig pig times it times 11s name name ferchuse ferchuse is a a corruption corruption of of fressure fressure was killed. killed. Its was (pluck) (Pluck) (q.v.). (q.v.). in itit 500 500 g. saucepan with with a heavy base. base. Melt Melt in Use a large saucepan (generous (generous I lb.) fresh fresh chopped pork fat. Bring Bring to to the tbe boil, put in all al! the the pork pluck (heart, liver, and lungs) cut CUl into into pieces and seasoned with salt, pepper, and spices. spices. Brown the pluck very very quickly. When browned, sprinkle sprinkle with (seant i cup) flour. fiouL Mix Mix well, stirring stirring wirh 3 tablespoons (scant ".tp) with a Îs golden. golden. a wooden spoon, and cook until until the flour flour is patt of water or Moisten Moisten with 2 parts red wine and I1 part ofwater or stock' stock. There There should should be be enough liquid liquid to to cover caver the the pluck pluck completely. steadily, Bring Bring to the boil. As soon as the liquid is boiling steadily, and aa of garlic, and cloves of crushed cloyes shallots, 6 crushcd add 8 chopped sballots, add add for 1I hour, slowly for garni. Simmer Simmer slowly large bouquet garni. large hour, then then add lard, in lard, which have been browned in chopped onions which 6 iarge, large, chopped simmer potatoes. Continue to to simmer quartered potatoes. l0 or or 12 l2large, and 10 and large, quanered 45 minutes. for aa further 45

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FERMENT-- The agent, living or not, that induces fermentaFERMENT tion.

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induced by by Ihe the The chemical chemical change change induced FERMBNTATION -- The FERMENTATION action of of bacteria. action FERMENTATIoN ALCOOLIQUE. AI,coor-tQur -- Sec See Alcoholfo fermentatÎon. fermentation. FERMENTATION Alcohollc ALCOHOL, WINE, BEER. WINE, BEER. LAcTIQLJE -- Sec See milk. FERMENTATION FERMENTATIoN LACTIQUE Fermentation of of milk. MILK, CHEESE. M ILK, CHEESE. PUTRIDE FERMENTATIoN PUTRIDE See fementation. FERMENTATION Putrid fermentation. Putrid See PUTREFACTION. PUTREFACTION. braised of preparing braised (A LA) -- Special method method of FERMIÈRE FERMBRE (À garnish of carrois, carrots, turnips, meat, with aa garnish pot-roasted meat, or or pot-roasted very tender. until very in butter butter until slowly in cooked slowly onions cooked and onions celery, celery, and (See FONDUE, Vegetable fondue.) FONDUE, Vegetahle (See fondue.) (such ferns (such young shoots certain rems of certain shoots of The young FouctRE -- The FERN. FOUGÈRE FERN. served and can can be be served are edîble edible and bracken) are and bracken) fern and the male male fem as the as stalks. male hop-flower hop-flower stalks. like male like

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Customs cALENDAIRE -- Customs cuIsINE CALENDAIRE COOKERY. CUISINE FESTM COOKERY. FESTIVE to or to the year, to religion Ol' of the days of certain days linked to to certain closely lînkcd c10sely and plenty of give plenty opportunity for celebrations; and of opportunity legend, give Many sosofood. Many for special special food. call for enough, caU naturally enough, these, naturally eaten througbout throughout those eaten similar toto those aresimilar dishes are called 'festive' 'festive' dishes called and occasions and to certain certainoccasions year; sorne de rigueur to belong de the year; some belong the This chapter indudes includes times.This at other times. so popular at not be may nOI be50 as the the circumstances (such as specialities servod in particular circumstances onfixed fixed and and offered on as those those offered grain or grape harvest) as aswell well as orgrape grain days. moveablefeast feast days. moveable cuisine all traditional traditionalcuisine includeail to include impossible 10 be impossible would be TtIt would several requireseveral would require that would disposal -- that space atat our ourdisposai the space inin tbe 369 369

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FESTIVECOOKER COOKERY FESTIVE y festival called Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, festival called Lupercalia was held near this date. Gelasius, who was Pope in 472, rcplacd, this festival by Candlemas. who was Pope in 472, replaced this festival by Candlemas. Since Candlemas fell just as winter endod and spring began, Since Candlemas felI just as winter ended and spring began, the food was flour-based (otd wheat to encourage the new). the food was flour-based (old wheat to encourage the new). Fritters were served (butter and oil rouligneaux) and panFritters were served (butter and oil rouligneaux) and pancakes galore. cakes galore. The pancake custom goes back a long way. The Minagier The paneake eus tom goes back a long way. The Ménagier de Paris cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a de Paris cites that, in the fourteenth century, the rule for a good pancake batter was that it be 'ni clire ni espoisse, was that it be 'ni clère ni espoisse' good pancake batter (neither too thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, (neither too thin nor too thick). And for superstition's sake, one had to toss the pancake higher than the kitchen cupone had to toss the pancake higher than the kitchen cupboard while holding coin in the hand. board while holding aacoin in the hand. Napoleon tossed one (badly) before he left for Russia. Napoleon tossed one (badly) before he left for Russia. At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of flour At Montbard, biscuits are made from a mixture of fioul' and fat formed into human human shapes shapes whose whose features features are are and fat formed into marked with five haricot beans. These are called mariottes marked with five haricot beans. These are called mariolles

Nivernais,the theShrove Shrove Tuesday Tuesday meal mealwas: was: InInNivernais, Clearsoup soup with pasta with pasta Clear Boiled beef beefand andvegetables vegetables Boiled Coqau vinor orchicken auvin chickenininwhite white sauce sauce Coq Roast turkey goose turkeyor orgoose Roast Salad seasoned garlic and seasonedwith withgarlic andnut nutoil oil Salad goats'milk WhitegoalS' cheese with with cream cream White milk cheese Prune tart tart Prune Burnt marc (indispensable) marc brandy brandy (indispensable) Bumt

And al! all over over France, France, people people feasted feasted themselves themselves on panon panAnd cakes, fritters, fritters, waffles, waffies, and and various various biscuits biscuits and and cakes. cakes" cakes, In Les Les Landes, Landes, the the cook cook knew knerr that that her het cruspels cruspets were were In perfectly baked baked when, when, ifif she she sharply sharply rapped rapped the the terrine terrine perfectly containing them them with with her her knuckles, knuckles, itit broke. broke. containing There were were also also cornious, cornious, merveilles merveilles and (fied and, bollereaux bottereaux (fried There biscuits). In In Touraine, Touraine, there (small fried there were russeroles (small were russeroles fried biscuits). yeast biscuits). biscuits). yeast The faverol/es of Sainte-Menehould Sainte-Menehould were were made made with with The faverolles of butter, nour flour and and eggs. eggs. butter, In Marne, Marne, they they ate ate the the defeated defeated fighting fighting cockerels; cockerels; and and In in the the Ardennes, Ardennes, aa gigantic gigantic omelette omelette marked marked the the end end of of the the in period. egg-eating egg-ea ting period. In Sologne, Sologne, they they made made beugnons beugnow (pasta (pasta browned browned in in aa In pan) or frying pan) or slices slices of of white white bread bread dipped dipped in in frying frying batter. frying giteaux of The gâteaux of Reims Reims were four-horned. four-horned. The In Alsace, Alsace, at at Ossenbach Ossenbach and and elsewhere, elsewhere, slices slices of dried of dried In apples and pears were served and pears served with bacon bacon or ham. ham. The same The sa apples me dish was was called called séchu siclw in n Territoue-de-Belfort. Territoirede-Belfort. dish In the the Côte-d'Or Cdte-d'Or and and in in Isère, Isdre, aa cheese cheese soup soup began In began the meal. mea!. Lent. cmfrrm -- No eggs, no fat, no Lent is unt. CARÊME No eggs, no fat, no meat. meal. Lent is symbolised cod and and the herring, two fish fish that that could bolised by by the the cod the herring, could be conserved in various conserved in various ways. ways. In In Bordeaux, Bordeaux, this this period pericx! of penitence on a one journeying penitence began began on a merry merry note note by by one journeying to Caud6ran to the 10lls lous limacs Caudéran to eat eat the Iimacs cendrdis cendréis (snails cooked in the the ashes). ashes). At in Arddche, Ardèche, a a special special dish dish was created crealed for At Usclades, Usclades, in Lent: Lent: pieces pieces of of a a cheese called called Sarrasoune, and and pieces pieces of other other varieties varieties of of cheese, cheese, were were placed placed in in an earthenware earthenware jar jar with with salt, salt, vinegar vinegar and and mustard mustard and set aside aside to 10 ferment ferment for for three three weeks. weeks. The The result result was was a rather rather sticky sticky mess mess with with aa very very strong strong flavour. flavour. One One had had to to become become slowly slowly accustomod accustomed to to the the rigours rigours of of the the long long period period of of fasting, fasting, during during which which even ev en eggs eggs were were forbidden under the Ancim Ancien Rigime. Régime. The The first Iirst Sunday Sunday of of forbidden under Lent Lent offered offered some sorne alleviation, alleviation, and and resultod resultcd in in the the kilchlis küchlis of of Alsace Alsace (crown-shaped (crown-shaped gAteaux), gâteaux), the the bugnes bugnes of of Beaujolais, Beaujolais, and and carpe carpe brandonniire brandonnière (enjoyed (enjoyed by by the the inhabitants inhabitants of of Mareuil Mareuil in in Touraine Touraine as as well weil as as those those of of Sa6ne-et-Loire). Saône-ct-Loire). In ln Franche-Comte Franche-Comtè and and French French Switzerland, Switzerland, there there were were the thepiqueris, piquerés, piuis picrés or orpiconis piconés (peas (peas fried fried in in pork pork fat) fat) which which the the young young married married couples couples offered offered to to their their guests. guests. These These appear appear again again in in Yonne, Yonne, under under the the name name of of guernaulie guernaulée or or gr6lie. grôlée. AA dish dish of ofpeas peas cooked cooked first tirst in in water, water, then then saut6ed sautécd in in lard, lard, isis variously variously called called dimanche dimanche an au Piquerey, Piquerey, au au picoui, Picoué, dl dé pwd, Pwé, des etc. des Botdges, Bofdges, des des Piquirds, Piquérés. etc. In In Vermenton, Vermenton, ichaudis échaudés and and aa pint pint of of wine wine were were distridistributed. buted. Mid-Lent. Mid-unt. r.l LA nrr-c,mfrran Ml-CARÊME -- Halfway Halfway through througb Lent Lent was was the accompanied by by the signal signal for for celebrations celebrations everywhere, everywhere, accompanied drinking drinkingsessions sessionsand and feasts. feasts. InIn Alsace, Alsace, girls girls made made special special gdteaux gâteaux which which they they distridistributed men; inin Hazebrouck, Hazebrouck, nuts nuts were were tossed tossed buted toto the the young young men; into intothe thestreets. strects.(These (Thesenuts, nuls,ititwas wassaid, said,had had the themiraculous miraculous power powerofofcuring curingtoothache.) toothache.) Pahn Plilm Sundry. Sunday. LEs LES RAMEAuX RAMEAUX -- Or Or the Ihe first first Sundav Sunday inin

or marionnettes.

or marionnelles. The feast of onelettes (10 Febmary). rl rfrr DEs oMELETTES Tbe fellst of omelettes (Hl Fehl1lllry). LA fÈ'IE DES OMELETIES This is how the villagers celebrate the retum of the sun at -- This is how the villagers celebrate the retum of the sun at Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this Andrieux in the Hautes-Alpes. The valley in which this village lies is bereft of the sun's rays for about a hundred of the sun's rays for about a hundred village lies is bereft days a year. On l0 February the reappearance ofthe sun is days a year. On 10 February the reappearance of the sun is the signal for general rejoicing. All the inhabitants busily the signal for general rejoicing. Ali the inhabitants busily prepare omelettes. At l0 a.m. these are carried to the square. prepare omelettes. At 10 a.m. thesc are carried to the square. The most venerable and and aged aged of of the the inhabitanlS inhabitants preside preside The most venerable over the succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the over the succeeding ceremony at which everyone dances the holding their their omelette pans in omelette pans in their their hands. hands. The farandole holding The farandole whole gathering then goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes whoJe gathering then goes to a stone bridge and the omelettes are placed on the parapets. When the sun peeps over the are placed on the parapets. When the sun peeps over the horizon about midday, the omelettes are offered to it. Home horizon about midday, the omelettes are offered to il. Home then, where every household makes and ealS eats ilS its own own then, where every household makes and 'sacred' omelette in thanksgiving. 'sacred' omelette in than ksgiving. fst April - The sun happened to be in the constellation of lst AprilThe sun happened to be in the constellation of Pisces on date and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish Pisces on this this date and the idea of poisson d'avril (April fish or fool) was born. Since I April was onoe the first day of the or fool) was born. Since 1 April was once the tirst day of the year, gifts were exchanged, particularly sweetmeats in the year, gifts were exchanged, particularly sweetmeals in the form of fish. These were form of fish. These were the the forerunners forerunners of of the the chocolate chocolate fish that we know today, which are just as characteristic of fish that we know today, which are just as characteristic of Easter as chocolate Easter eggs. Eastel' as chocolate Easter eggs. (25 Saint Saint Mark Mark (25 April) April) -- In In the the Baux Baux de de Provence, Provence, ringringshapod biscuits called toques are blessed and eaten. shaped biscuit<; called lOques are blessed and eaten. Shrove Tuesday and Carnival. ulr.or cRAs ET cARNAVAL Sbrove Tuesday and Carnival. MARDI GRAS ET CARNAVALDepending upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is Depending upon when Easter Day falls, Shrove Tuesday is celebratod somewhere between 2 February and 9 March. celebrated somewhere between 2 February and 9 March. Carnival Carnival begins begins on on 6 6 January January and and can can therefore therefore last last for for anything between twenty-eight and sixty-six days. In the anything between twenty-eigbt and sixt y-six days. In the olden days it was particularly on Shrove Tuesday, the last olden days it was particularly on Shrove Tuesday, the la st day before Lent, that day before Lent, that Carnival Carnival reached reached its ilS height. height. The The fattened ox with its accorirpanying traditions was one of the fattened ox with ilS accompanying traditions was one of the biggest attractions of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy biggest attractions of the festival. Nowadays, in Burgundy and Dauphin6, Carnival delicacies are pancakes, frittirs oi and Dauphiné, Carnival delicacies are pancakes, fritters or bugnes, milk gruel, snake-shaped gdteaux called fantaisies. bugnes, milk gruel, snake-shaped gâteaux called fantaisies. Another Burgundy speciality is cheese which is cooked in the Another Burgundy spet.-iality is cheese which is cooked in the cinders. cinders. It's It's Mardi Mardi Gras Gras

You You mustn't mustn't go go

I'll l'Il make make you you pancakes pancakes you will eat them-o! And And you will eat them-o! In Champagne, pig's trotter always used to be eaten; its In Champagne, pig's trotter always used to be eaten; its ear in Ardeche. In Touraine, it used to be leg of goat; in ear in Ardèche. ln Touraine, il used to be leg of goat; in Limousin, a stuffed rabbit; in Quercy, an enonnolrs vol-auLimousin, a stuffed rabbit; in Quercy, an enormous vol-auvmt frlled with jointed chickens and accompanied by salsify ven/ filled with jointed chickens and accompanied by salsify sauce) in the Confolens region, they usod to feast upon sauce) in the Confolens region, they used 10 feast upon stuffod breast of veal. stuffed breast of veal. In Provence, the last big meal before Lent had to be an ln Provence, the last big meal before Lent had to be an atoli. a/oli. Pies and flans used to be eaten in H6rault. Pies and flans used to be eaten in Hérault. 370 370

FESTIVE FESTIVECOOKERY COOKERY In ln Louhans, Louhans, aa minced minced mixture mixture of of salt salt veal, veal, chicken, chicken, and and pie. for the filling pork traditional is the pork is the traditional filling for the pie. In Souterraine (Creuse), (Creuse), the the Easter Easter pie pie isis made made of of meat meat ln Souterraine covered covered with with halved halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggswhich whichgive giveitil aa humped humped

Spring, Spring, because because the the blossom blossom appears appears on on the Ihe boxwood boxwood and and the the first firsi spring spring flowers flowers are are ready ready to 10 be be picked. picked. In In provincial provincial France France the the children children attend attend Mass Mass bearing bearing aa latge large branch branch of of boxwood boxwood hung hung with with ribbons, ribbons, chocolates chocolates or or candies, candies, apples apples or or prunes, prunes, uoquets croquets (little (Iitlle crisp crisp almond almond biscuits), biscuits), candied candied fruit fruit or or waffies. waffies. In In Brittany Brittany and and Anjou, Anjou, the the branches branches are are laurel laurel or or rosemary. rosemary. In ln the the Nice Nice region, region, the tbe branches branches used used to to be be decorated decorated with with candiod candied fruit fruit (apple, (apple, pear, pear, orange) orange) and and little Httle biscuit biscuit men. These biscuit biscuit figures figures are are also also found found in in Auvergne Auvergne men. These where where they they are are called cali cd bougeois.In bougeois. ln Savoy Savoy they Ihey are are animalanimalshaped. shaped. In In Dauphin6, Dauphiné, besides besides these these figures, figures, there there are are tortilles tortilles which which are are crown-shaped crown-shaped giteaux. gâteaux. In In Sarlat, Sarlat, the the biscuit biscuit figures figures are arc called called colombes colombes and and their their features features are are marked marked with with aniseed. aniseed. In In Arddche Ardèche they they are are called called pantins, pantins, ,suil.reJ, suisses, or or estives. estèves. Elsewhere, Elsewhere, gdteaux, gâteaux, sweetmeats, sweetmeats, and and 'red'eggs 'red' eggs abound. abound. In ln Aveyron, Aveyron, we we find find star-shaped star-shaped biscuits biscuils called chaudels, along along with with aniseed aniseed dwarfs dwarfs and and biscuit biscuit called chaudels, figures. S-shaped or or crown-shaped crown-shaped pdtisseries pâtisseries ate are the the figures. S-shaped specialities specialities in in Perpignan. Perpignan. In ln Creuse, Creuse, itit isis aa cock; cock; in in Aubusson, Aubusson, aa rosary rosary of of meringues meringues with with a ribbon ribbon threaded threaded through through them. them. Tlrc The cornus, cornudos, cornudos, and cornuelles cornuelles found found in in Limousin, Limousin, Angoumois, Angoumois, and P6rigord Périgord are triangular biscuits. biscuits. In In Berry, Berry, there there are are marmottes (little (Iittle round round biscuits). biscuits). In In Bergerac, Bergerac, around around the the year year 1890, 1890, the the branches were were decorated decorated with with salted fish); sardinoux (tiny (tiny salted fish); and and in in Quercy, real real fish fish were wcre served with the fouaces (gftdle (girdle cakes). JEuDI sAINr Murndy Maundy Thursday. Tbursday. JEUDl SAINT - In ln Alsace, nothing nothing but but everyalmost everygreen vegetables vegetables are eaten in the the home. home. But But almost (particularly choir where else this is is the day where where children children (particularly choir and pennies. collecting eggs boys) go go from door to door colJecting eggs and pennies. dish The most sAINr -- The VENDREDI SAINT most traditional traditional dish Good Friday. vENDR-EDI C6te-d'Or, lentils on the the Côte-d'Or, in Selongey, on is still still cod; but in is lenlils have have bretzels Alsace, bretzels in Alsace, while in to be eaten to wash away one's sins; while pledge are aa pledge young engaged engaged couples are by young in unison by crunched in crunched conwere conFriday were on Good Good Friday love. Eggs 'gathered' on of eternal love. qualities. special qualities. to have special everywhere to sidered almost everywhere other lasagne and and olher valley, lasagne Meuse valley, in the the Meuse and in In Lorraine Lorraine and ln or they they vinegar; or in vinegar; dipped in and dipped lozenges and pasta into lozenges are cul cut into pas ta are cooked being cooked by being of Moselle by tArcb$ of or tâtelots tdtelats or the tâtelats become become the vinaigrette. with vinaigrette. seasoned with water and and seasoned in water in pAeurs -- The Maundy on Maundy eggs on for eggs The searching searching for Easter. PÂQlJES Easter. preparation for for the the the preparation was the Friday was Good Friday and Good Thursday and Thursday that pastries, and and omelettes omelettes Ihat eggs, paslries, hard-boiled eggs, on hard-boiled onslaught on onslaught Lent. after Lent. eating after to normal normal eating return to the retum markod the marked chocolate or chocolate sugar-coated or advent of of sugar-coaled the advent before the A long long time time before A were Children were roll eggs. eggs. Children and roll to dye dye and custom 10 was Ihe the custom eggs, ilit was eggs, rabbits, or rab hares, or hens, hares, laid by by hens, were laid eggs were Easter eggs that Easter told that told bits, region. the region. upon the depending upon depending fare besides besides Easter fare traditional Easler other traditional was other there was However, Ihere Rowever, beechnut (In the Bray region, region, beechnut the Bray omelettes. (ln the indispensable indispensable omeletles. the kid or or roast kid was mast these.) Often Ofteir itit was for making making these.) was set set aside aside for oil was oi! parslied also parslied were also there were but there days, but biblical days, as in in biblical leg of of mutton mutton as leg roast fattened roast specially fattened Burgundy; specially pork brawn brawn inin Burgundy; ham or or pork harn in Gascogne; Gascogne; saucisson in region; dried dried suucL5Son pig in Metz region; in the the Metz sucking pig sucking Toulon. and Toulon. in Lauraguais Lauraguais and omelette in and saucisson saucissonomelette and pies are pies provinces there there are Charentes provinces other Charentes and other In Ruffec Ruffec and In pastry isis Saturday aa pastry EasterSaturday On Easter meat. On minced meal. filled with with minced I1Hed plate isis lined lined large plate sugar. AA large and sugar. butter, and of flour, flour, eggs, eggs, butter, made of made pigeon meat meat or pigeon mixture of of chicken chicken or minced mixture this, then then aa minced with this, with with covered with placed upon This isiscovered it.This upon il. eggs isisplaced hard-boiled eggs and hard-boiled and pie isis cooked, cooked, ilit isis pastry. Before the pie Before the layer of of pastry. another layer another birds, with leaves, leaves, birds, house with the house of the daughter of the dallghter decorated by by the decorated pastry' The The leftover pastry. theleftover of the made of shapes made simpleshapes othersimple andother and andbaked baked inin water and yolk of andwater ofegg eggand glazdwith withyolk pieisisthen thenglazed pie theoyen. oven. the to those thoseof of added10 onion isisadded Poitou; onion servedininPoitou; too,are areserved Pies,too, Pies, Touraine. Touraine.

appearance. appearance. The The galette galelle pacaude pacaude of of Vend6e Vendée (also (also called called Easter Easler bread) bread) to isis made made with with bread bread dough dough rekneaded rekneaded with with butter buller and and eggs eggs to water orange-flower and Sugar dough. make make aa brioche brioche dough. Sugar and orange-flower water are are added, added, and and the the paste paste isis formed formed into into aa large large loaf loaf and and cooked cooked a brioche. like oven in a slow in a slow oyen Iike a brioche.

pdtisserie: There There are are many many other other varieties varieties of of Easter Easter pâtisserie: cavagflats cavagnats at at Menton; Menton; cacavelli cacavelli ot or campanili campanili in in Corsica; C'orsica; juicy chunks of flaky pastry pies pies filled filled with with juicy chunks oflamb lamb in in Aveyron, Aveyron, flaky pastry etc. etc.

The The well-known well-known soupe soupe dorde dorée (slices (slices of of white white bread bread dipped dipped

in in in a a mixture mixture of of beaten beaten eggs eggs and and milk, milk, then then browned browned in

butter) butter) belongs belongs traditionally traditionally to to Easter. Easter. Itlt isis called called crofrtes croûtes in in parts of Savoy. certain certain pariS of Sa voy. Pdti Pâté en en crofrte croûte is is still still the the Easter Easter Monday Monday dish dish in in Loches Loches pork omelette. and and Ligueil. Ligueil. In ln Marseille, Marseille, itil is is pickled pickled pork omelette. performed on is dance cheese Ascension Ascension -- The The traditional traditional checse dance is performed on cheese this this day day at at Vic-sous-Thil Vic-sous- Thil on on the the C6ted'Or. Côte-d'Or. A A cream cream cheese lilac. is is placed placed in in aa large large bowl bowJ and and crowned crowned with with aa bunch bunch of of lilae. When When the the dancer dancer makes makes her her final final curtsey, curtsey, the the inn-keeper inn-keeper steps steps forward forward and and smears smears her her face face with with the Ihe cream cream cheese. cheese. ln In the the Montb6liard Montbéliard region, region, fritters fritters and and spiced spiced milk milk curds curds (saizai) (saizai) are are the the order order ofthe of the daY. day. Curdled Curdled milk milk blended blended with with the the seeds seeds of of cultivated cultivated dish in (caillebottes) used cardoons (caillebottes) cardoons used to to be be the the Ascension Ascension Day Day dish in with eaten with fresh crosswise and cut crosswise The whey Vend6e. whey was was eut and eaten fresh Vendée. The sugar. milk milk and and sugar. pnNrncdrs 'the soup called Pentecost. Pcotecost. PENTECÔTE -- A A haricot haricot bean bean soup called 'the village in the dish in the traditional Holy Ghosl' Ghost' is of the soup of soup the Roly is the traditional dish the village in two It isis made Alpes-Maritimes. lt in the Croix in La Croix of La of the Alpes-Maritimes. made in two (33 gallons, l50litres containing each cauldrons, enonnous enormous cauldrons, each containing J 50 litres (33 gallons, first !loor floor of of the first on Ihe situated on kitchen situated in aa kitchen gallons) soup, soup, in 4lj gallons) 41t the church. church. lhe on giteaux are are offered offerod on pork and special gâteaux and special Roast pork May -- Roast 1I May 'milk the 'milk drinks the everyone drinks Tours, everyone In Tours, Burgundy. In in Burgundy. this day, day, in Ihis strong'. 'sweet and and strong'. thern 'sweet make them to make May' to of May' of In Saint-ForgeuxSaint-ForgeuxIsIDoRE- ln (10 May). sAINr ISIDORE May). SAINT Isadore (10 Saint Isadorc Saint large are large 'Saint Isadores' which are Isadores' which bakes 'Saint baker bakes the baker I'Espinasse, the l'Espinasse, high. These These are (12 to inches) high. to 24 24 inches) cm. (12 to 60 60 cm. 30 to figures 30 brioihe figures brioche are later dislributed. distributed. and later in the the church church and exhibited in exhibited succulent Yonne, succulenl (16 May) the Yonne, in the At Viviers, Viviers, in May) -- At Phsl (16 Saint Phal Saint that the reason th for this this reason It isis for day. Il this day. on this pies are offered on are offered duck pies duck al the nicknamed'ducklings'. are nicknamed inhabitants are inhabitants 'ducklings'. cheese dalcetype of of cheesc Another type r€rr-orcU -- Anolher Christi. rnTE-DIEU Corpus Christi. Corpus dance bowl of of set in in aa bowl cheese set white cheese A white day. A place on this day. on this takes place takes best. girl young who dances the young girl who dances best. to the offered to cream isis offered cream netthere isis aa netin Anjou, Anjou, there At Ponts-de-Cé Ponts-de-C6 in 15 August August -- At 15 this held on be to used A banquet fishing expedition. fishing expedition. A banquet used to be held on Ihis stew laced offish kind of enjoyed aa kind everyone enjoyed which everyone at which occasion at occasion fish stew laced wine. Anjou wine. with Anjou with been a has always always been meal has harvest meal The harvest MotssoNs -- The Harvest. MOISSONS Hacvest. a at Pentecost, example, for In Argonne, event. important very very important event. ln Argonne, for exarnple, at Pentecost, his to his banquet 10 pre-harvest banquet offer aa pre-harvest to offer used to even maiter ev the master the en used scytheg inin the scythes, wielded the who wielded men who The men harvesters. The future harvesters. future fields ail all in the the fields out in them oui before them hard task task before had aa hard particular, had particular, hot sun. the day under day under the hot sun. meals the kind kind of of meals of tbe examples of few examples are aa few following are The following The part of of theit their formod part of spcaking, speaking formed manner of grvel. These, in aamanner These, in given. fivemeals meals were five There were France.There Midi of of France. the Midi contract inin the work contracl work day: aaday: that onbread bread that spread on redancbovy anchovy spread crushed red At7 a.m.aacrushed J.l.At 7 a.m. pickled withaa pickled along witb vinegar, along andvinegar, oil and dipped ininoil hadbeen beendipped had garlic-rubbod bread. bread. piece of drygarlic-rubbed ofdry onionororaapiece onion piece of cheese. and aapiece eggand hard-boiled egg a.m.aahard-boiled At 10l0a.m. 2.2.At of cheese. 371 371

FESTIVE COOKERY FESTIVE COOKERY 3. At I p.m. lunch of soup followed by boiled vegetables 3. Al J p.m. lunch of soup followed by boiled vegetables or an onion omelette. or an onion omelette. 4. At 4 p.m. an enonnous salad with a crotton of garlic-

4. At 4 p.m. an enormous salad with a croûton of garlicrubbed bread. rubbed bread. 5. For supper, pork or mutton followed by an onion 5. For supper, pork or mutton followed by an onion omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo omelette called the moissonneuse (harvester) and soupo courto (a meat ragofrt mixed with rice). courlo (a meat ragoul mixed with rice). In the Aude, lunch consisted white lamb stew, or an ln the Aude, lunch consisted ofofwhite lamb stew, or an omelette, or sheep's tripe. omelette, or sheep's tripe. In Seine-et-Marne a stew accompanied by cheese and ln Seine-ct-Marne a stew accompanied by cheese and salad was carried out to the fields at I I a.m. In the evenins salad was carried out to the fields at Il a.m. In the evening there was charigot (a mutton ragofrt served with potatoes). there was charigot (a mullon ragoût served with potatoes). In Doubs, at 4 p.m., there was the fiempette which was a ln Doubs, at 4 p.m., there was the trempe/le which was a bowl of sweetenod wine in which one dipped /icftes (strips) of bowl of sweetened wine in which one dipped liches (strips) of bread. bread. Harvest festival. A u rnr DEs MorssoNs - There was Harvest festival. À LA FIN DES MOISSONS - There was always a meal to mark the end of the harvest but it was of the harvest but it was al ways a meal to mark the end served under a variety of names - reboule, paulee, pass6e, served under a variety of names - reboule, paulée, passée, berlot, poch6e, barbatto. Fritters and offal were served in berlot, pochée, barbatto. Fritters and offaJ were served in Creuse and in Somme; sausages in Alsace and in FrancheCreuse and in Somme; sausages in Alsace and in FrancheComt6; cured knuckle of pork in the Massif Central; Central: Comté; cured knuckle ofjugged pork in the Massif boiled beef in Normandy; rabbit in Marne, Beauce. Beauce, boiled becf in Nonnandy; jugged rabbit in Marne, Perche and around Nice; rabbit an sang in Cher; roast Perche and around Nice; rab bit au sang in Cher; roast goose in Alsace,.Touraine and Seine-et-Marne; preserved goose in Alsace, Touraine and Seine-ct-Marne; preserved goose (confit d'oie) in the regions that specialise in it; roast goose (confit d'oie) in the regions that specialise in it; roast cockerel more or less throughout Marne, Isdre, Angoumois cockerel more or less throughout Marne, Isère, Angoumois and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta served too: rivioli or and Sologne. There was a lot of pasta served too: ravioli or meat pasties, lasagne, galettes (girdle cakes) and matafans, meat pasties, lasagne, ga/elles (girdJe cakes) and matafans, wafres and darioles. wafHes and darioles. In the Massif Central the dish of the day is patranque (a In the Massif Central the dish of the day is patranque (a potato and cheese dish) and pountari (a stuffing potato and cheese dish) and pounlari (a meatless meatless stuffing cooked in a casserole). cooked in a casserole). In the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and gouillates ln the Meuse, there are cream or jam puffs and gouil/ales (thin pastry squares eaten with milk or vinaigreuej. (thin pastry squares eaten with milk or vinaigrelle). October - In Burgundy, neighbours and friends meet to Oclober - In Burgundy, neighboUfs and friends mect to crack nuts and to drink the new as the evenings draw wine as the evenings draw crack nuIS and to drink the new wine in. There is much singing and story-telling on such ociasions. in. There is much singing and story-telling on such occasions. In some parts of Yonne, a light meal used to follow the In sorne parts of Yonne, a light meal used to follow the wine and nuts. Small, V€ry spicy, dumplings called miottes wine and nuts. Small, very spicy, dumplings called mioltes were served along with girdle cakes and haricot beans. were served along with girdle cakes and haricot beans. Grape harvest. LEs vENDANGEs - It used to be the general Grape bancsl. LES VENDANGES - It used to be the general custom to offer the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. custom to ofl'er the grape-pickers a meal during the harvest. In lhe upper Rhine valley this consisted of a soup thickened ln the upper Rhine valley this consisted of a soup thickened with flour or potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster with !lour or potatoes, and white cheese mixed with munster or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and Epernay, the freshly or herbstkas. In the region of Ay and Epernay, the freshly butchered pig's head was kept for this meal. In Touraine, butchered pig's he ad was kept for this meal. In Touraine, jugged rabbit with prunes was jugged rabbi! with prunes was the the speciality. speciality. In In Beaujolais, Beaujolais, there were chamoures (marrow flans). there were chamoures (marrow flans). The pmlie, the meal that marked the termination of the The pauMe, the meal that marked the termination of the grape harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where grape harvest, is still the signal for gargantuan feasts, where the speciality of each region has pride of place. the speciality of each region has pride of place. It November In the centre of France, France, this th is evening evening was was November -- ln the centre of spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling chestnuts, spent doing the pluche which consisted of peeling chestnuts, then boiling and eating them. In other places, they used to then boiling and eating them. In other places, they used to make and eat the milletie, a kind of mash made from millet make and eat the millelée, a kind of mash made from millet grain cookod in milk. These traditions were usually usually linked Imked grain cooked in milk. Tbese traditions were with some superstition or other. with some superstition or other. Martinmas (11 November) - In some country districts, the Martlnmas (Il November) _. In some country districts, the custom is to eat a roast turkey stuffed with chestnuts, or a custom is LO cat a roast turkey stuffed wilh chestnuts, or a fattened goose (it is the end of the fattening period for these fattened goose (il is the end of the fattening period for these fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux (bv fowl). And the rue aux Oyers, aux Oues, Oues, and and aux aux Ours Ours (by deformation), used to be close to the abbey of Saint-Martindeformation), used to be close to the abbey of Saint-Martindes Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair usd to begin on Champs. The Dijon gastronomic fair used to begin on lldes November. Il November. North of the French border, in Flanders and in the North of the French border, in Flanders and in the Rhineland, the cornes de Saint-Martin (crescent-shaped Rhineland, the cornes de Sainl-Martin (crescent-shaped gnteaux) were offered on this dav. gâteaux) were offered on th.is day. Chrisfuas Eve. LA vErLLfu or No'sL - The hearty provengal Christmas Eve. LA VEILLÉE DE NO'EL - The hearty Provençal 372 372

supperbecomes becomesaameatless meatless meal mealon onChristmas Christmas Eve. Eve.ftIt supper provence. variesfrom fromdistrict districttotodistrict districtininprovence. varies canbe becauliflower; cauliflower;cod (cod, fried codininrailO raito(cod, friedwith withwine ItItcan wine sauceand andcapers); capers);cardoons cardoonsand andchards chardsininwhite whitesauce; sauce; sauce grey mullet snails;grey mulletwith with olives; olives;celery poivrade; oror celery àdlaIa poivrade; snails; omelettes with withartichokes artichokes and fresh pasta. pasta. andfresh omelettes But the the highlight highlight isis the thethirteen thirteendesserts: desserts: nougal nougatdes des But capucins made madewith withfigs, figs,with with nuts, nuts,and andwith with honey; honey;white white capucins nougat; the thefougasse (girdle cake cake made made with with oil oiland and orangeorangenougat; fougasse (girdle flower water); water); apples; apples; pears; pears; prunes; prunes; almonds; almonds; hazelnuts; hazelnuis; flowcr thecalissons calissonsof of Aix; Aix;the thebiscotins; biscotins;the casse-dents of of Allanch, Allanch, the the casse-dents etc., washed washed down down with with hot hot wine wine and and ratafi ratafi liqueur. liqueur. Thirteen Thirteen etc., desserts, therefore, therefore, but but not not necessarily necessarily the thesame sameones oneseveryeverydesserts, where. And And why why thirteen? thirteen? Simply Simply inin memory memory of of the the Last Lait where. Supper which which Christ Christ shared shared with with his his twelve twelve disciples. disciples. Supper Le réveillon r6veillon (midnight (midniglrt fesst) feast) -- Begins Begins on on retum return from from Le (Rdveillon means Midnight Mass. M ass. (Réveillon means literally literally 'a'a new new awakening'). awakening'). Midnight The fasting fasting of of Christmas Christmas Eve, Eve, the the length length of of the the services services The (everyone used used to to attend attend laudes laudes and and matins matins before before the the threc three (everyone masses) and (more often and the the (more often than than not) not) long long distance distance to to masses) cover coming coming and justification enough going, used and going, used to to be be justification enough for for cover the réveillon. riveillon Also Also this this was, was, materially materially speaking, speaking, the the most most the important festival festival of of ail. all, the the one one that that lent lent ilS great its name name to to ail all great important rejoicings. On On royal royal occasions, occasions, when when large large distributions distributions of of rejoicings. food were were made made to people, the to the the people, the latter showed showed their delight delight food by crying crying'NoEl Noel !'. !'. by 'Noël!! Noël In Annagnac, Armagnac, aa stew stew is is servcd. served. In In Alsace, Alsace, thcre there is is sauerkraui sauerkraut and and goose liver. ln In Nivernais, Nivernais, aa pig pig is is slaughtered, slaughtered, and everyone everyone tucks into ln puddings while the puddings while they they wait wait for for the girdle cakes. the In Poitou, there there is game; partridges, capons, and game; ln Poitou, is poultry poultry and game birds, small game pheasants, small birds, herons, herons, leverets, leverets, hutch rabbits, pheasants, etc. etc. .big In ln Provence, Provence, those those who who are are still still hungry hungry after after the the 'big supper' find a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, supper' lind a turkey, stuffed with chestnuts, waiting for them on their them on their return return from from church. In ln Touraine, Touraine, aa pig pig is is slaughtered and there are quantities quantities of of black black and and white white puddings puddings followed followcd by by rillons (potted (potted pork), pork), cutlets, cutlets, and and finally finally the the fouace fouace (girdle (girdle cake). cake). In gras and. foie In Roussillon, Roussillon, like like everywhere else, oysters and foie gras take take the the place place of of honour honour at at the the beginning beginning of of the the meal, meal, followed followed by by the the local local ham ham and and aa roast roast turkey turkey nestling nestling beside beside aa roast roast hare. hare. The The glowing glowiog Muscat, Muscat, Banyuls Banyuls and and Rancio Rancio wines wines add add gaiety gaiety to to the the feast. fcast. For For dessert, dessert, there there isis pineapple pineapple bread, bread, then then the the tourrous (ourrous (the (the nougat nougat of of the the region), region), ihe the rosquilles rosquilles of of Am6lie-les-Bains, Amélie-les-Bains, and and the the grebilles grebilles (cisp (crisp biscuits). biscuits). All Ail these these are are highly highly esteemed esteemed varieties varieties of of locil local pdtisserie. pâtisserie. Roast Roast goose goose is is eaten eaten in in the the south-west; south-west; turkey turkey almost almost everywhere everywhere else. else. In ln the tbe United United States, States, Britain, Britain, and and Canada, Canada, on on Christmas Christmas Day Day there there isis roast roast beef, beef, or or aa goose, go ose, or or aa turkey, turkey, with with plum pIum pudding puddingand andmince mincepies. pies. At Atone onetime limethe theroyal royalChristmas Christmasdish dish was was roast roast swan swan followed followed by by plum plum pudding. pudding. Boar's Boar's head head isis served servedatatOxford. Oxford. InlnAustria, Austria,carp, carp,potato potatochips, chips, and andpear pearflans flansare areserved served atat the riveillon Thenthere thereisisroast ma stturkey turkeyor orgoose goosewith withapples, apples, the réveil/on.Then accompanied accompanied by byaagrilled grilled noodle noodledish dish containing containinghoney honeyand and poppyseeds poppyseedsfor forthe themidday midday meal meal on on Christmas Christmasday. day. In ln Denmark, Denmark, there there isis hot hot rice nce sprinkled sprinkled with with cold cold milk, milk, wheate,n wheatenbeer beerbread, bread, ham ham and and cod cod with with horseradish horseradish sauce. sauce. In ln Spain, Spain, there there isis almond almond soup soup and and besugo besugo (sea (sea bream bream baked bakedinin the theoven). oven). Inln Hungary, Hungary, aa substantial substantial supper supper consisting consisting of of roast roast sucking suckingpig pigand and poppyseed poppyseed cake cakeisis eaten eaten before beforemidnight midnight mass. mass. Inln Switzerland, Switzerland, the the Christmas Christmas patties patlies are are like like apple apple turnovers turnoversexcept exceptthat thatthey theyare aremade madewith withpears. pears.

FIATOLE FIATOLE Christmas Christmas cakes cakes an( anrJ biscuits. biscuits. Cakes Cakes and and biscuits biscuits have have alwaysbeen been an an integral integral feature feature ofevery feast feast day, day, to to such such an an always extent extent that that they have have taken taken on on aa ritual character, their their shape shape

and and composition conforming conforming to to the the solemnity solemnity of of the the occasion. occasion.

There are are the the Flemish Flemish Etegaolles; quegnolles; the cochelins cochelins of of the the There Beauce; the the nourolles nourol/es and agaignettes of of Normandy; the the Beauce; noulets and and cornabeaux cornabeaux of Berrichon; the calendnt of of noulets

l0 10 thin thin slices slices from from the the noix noix ot or sous'noix sous-noix (U.S. (U.S. loin) loin) of of veal. veal. Flatten Flatten these these with with a a beater beater to to make make them them rectangular rectangular in in shape. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and aa pinch of of spices. spices. the than larger pork rather fat Cut aa very very thin thin slice slice of of pork fat larger than the slices slices of of veal. veal. Spread Spread a a slice slice of of veal veal with with fine fine pork stuffing stuffing of d to which has has been been added added a a third third of of its its weight of à gratin gratin to which of FORCEMEAT) and and a a third third of its its weight weight of forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT)

the Lay the egg. Lay dry duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), which which has has been been bound bound with with egg. with each with other, spreading each slices of of veal veal one one on on top of of the the other, with aa of stuffing. Cover with stuffing stuffing and and ending with a a layer layer of slice of of lower slice of the lower edges of thin thin slice slice of of pork pork fat. Fold Fold the the edges F,old the feuilleton. of the sides of pork failleton. Fold pork fat fat so so that that they they cover cover the the sides slice' lower slice. the 10wer of the those of over those slice over upper slice ihe the edges edges of of the the upper buttered in aa buttered Put itit in shape. Put into shape. Tie Tie the feuilleton neatly neatly into and onions and sliced onions and sliced rinds and bacon rinds stewpan stewpan lined with with bacon and simmer for 20 garni. Cover, Cover, and bouquet garni. Add aa bouquet carrots. carrots. Add (scant tI pint, generous cup) 2t dl. dl. (scant with 2! Moisten with minutes. minutes. Moisten (scant I pint, generous dl. (scant Add 2+ dl. down. Add Boil down. wine. Boil white wine. white to aa COllcentl'at
Provence -- and and many others. others. Provence In Champagne, Champagne, there is is the the bourde. bourde. This This ritual ritual g0teau gâteau used In to be be in in the the shape shape of of a a human human figure figure and and was was eaten at to Christmas time; time; now now it it is is rectangular rectangular with with two two horns horns at Christmas either end. end. Bakers Bakers still still make make biscuits biscuits that that are are vaguely either At Christmas, Christmas, godparents used used to to give give human-shaped. At bourdes to to their godchildren godchildren up up to the period of their first bourdes Communion. These These were were placed placed in the the children's children's shoes or Communion. under their their pillows pillows for them to eat when they awoke. The under bourdes become become queugnots queugnols in Chdlons, Châlons, cogneux in Lorraine, Lorraine, bourdes and One Christmas in in Moirement is and burdins in Argonne. One described in in the following following few few lines: !ines: described Early in the morning Il baked for him Iittle burdin I1 made him a little pitcher Which is as big as our pitcher Il added a little lard enough butter Because Il hadn't enough form of of aa the form The gingerbread gingerbread in in Champagne takes takes the The Father Christmas, or of themselves with all stuff stuffthemselves ass. And ail Father of his ass. waffies. wafres. cockerel and the the cockerel In Brittany, the black and white puddings and (girdle Bnt the the fouaces meal. But the meal. main part of the make up the main fouaces (girdle cakes in in the or that morning) or made that star, freshly made the shape of aa star, the most tra.d!l:Iolrlal traditional the most still the cross, are are still the nolets nolets topped with aa cross, that of the delicacies. Best-known of the cake cake that the far, of aU all isis the far, the someone once said had nation. of aa nation. robustness of had the the robustness At one's among one's to distribute distribute among custom to the custom was the At one time time itit was friends small loaf caUed calld pain A huge huge 10af gdteaux called nieulles. A called nieul/es. small gâteaux de and divided before and the night night before kneaded the was kneaded de calandre calandre was and piece had cut off off and had been been cut small piece after aa small the family, family, after amongst the remedy kept as as aa remedy was kept This was four crosses. crosses. This or four marked with with three three or for for ail all ills. In and aa Eve and on Christmas Christmas Eve loaf isis made made on In Creuse, Creuse, this this 10af carefully This with it. it. This oven with put into gflteau isis put into the the oven carefully prepared gâteau to properties and aside to and isis put aside special properties gdteau is have special is said to to have that The belief isis that man or or beast. beast. The of man illness of in case case of of illness be used used in person ail piece to ailing person to the the ailing small piece take aa small to take has to to do do isis to all one one has in immediately. him immediateJy. to cure cure him in order order to In god-daughters aa godfathers give their their god-daughters the godfathers In Roussillon, Roussillon, the plrleapp.le that Joseph Joseph has itit that tortell. Legend has pineapple Joaf loaf called called aa tortell. gave to the the hastened to whohastened shepherds who the Catalan Catalan ch"nh''''T',-Ic gave this Joaf loaf to to the stable time. at Christmas Christmas time. stable at

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etc. cucumbers, etc. lettuce, cucumbers, chicory, lettuce, celery, chicory, braised celery, and, ifif Strain and, stock. Strain the braising stock. from the fat from the fat Remove the Remove stock this stock of this few tablespoons of Pour aa few down. Pour boil down. necessary, boil separately. rest Cf"r,<>r"tf"hJ the rest serve the and serve meat and over the meat over the feuilleton that the To ensure ensure that To feuilleton isis perfectly rectangular in pieces of white rectangular pieces thin rectangular with thin in with boxed in can be be boxed shape itit can shape position in position kept in and kept sides, and and sides, bottom, and the top, top, bottom, laid on on the wood laid wood with string. with different mixtures, with different made with be made also be can also This dish can This Madeira instead in Madeira be braised braised in can be salpicons. ItIt can atfr salpicons. stuffings; and stuffings, white wine. wine. of white of FRoID jelly. FEUILLETON vEAU FROID DE VEAU rnurrnroN DE in jeUy. veal in coH vea1 of cold Feuilletm of Feuilleton Feuilleton for Feuilleton asfor thefeuilleton as cook thefeuilleton and cook Prepare and cnrin- Prepare ÀA LA GELÉEon and put itit on Trim and weight. Trim under aaweight. Cool under veal àd l'ancienne. l'ancienne. Cool of veal of jelly inin aa bowl. over itit enough half-set Pour over bowl. Pour of weil-set well-set jelly b"d of aa bed jelly having the with the jelly (the jelly bee,n enriched with having been to cover cover itit (the jelly to -braising juice). Chili Chill meat juice). unthickened meat with unthickened diluted with stock diluted braising stock ice. on ice. on onVEAU vsA,uÀA rnutll,EToN DE p6rigurrdine. FEUILLETON vealàI lala périgourdine. of veaI Feuilleton of Feuilleton for pfntcounDlNE - Prep
u

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FEUILLANTINE flaky pastry with ftaky made with Puff-pastries made IBUILLANTINE - Puff-pastries dough times. These itself66times. into 33upon upon itself folded into rolled out out and and folded dough rolled pastries cm. (2 inches) strips 55cm. pastries are of the the dough dough inin strips are cut cut out out of long shed withwhite white of brushed wide.They Theyare are bru inch) wide. long and and 22 cm. cm. @inch) egg, baked inin aa granulated sugar and baked sugar and sprinkled with with granulated eEE, sprinkled moderate moderate oven. oven. Feuillantines also, and also, teaand afternoon tea served with withafternoon are served Feuillantinesare instead with ice icecream. cream. instead of of wafers, wafers,wlth

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(z.

the English roughly equivalent equivalenttotothe Caskroughly FEUILLETTE - Cask FEUILLETTE I 14litres litres (25 between114 quarter-cask,with capacityofofbetween withaacapacity quarter-cask, (31 gallons,3939 gallons)' gallons, 3131gallons) gallons) and 140litres litres(31 and140 gallons, gallons, litres (29gallons, holdsbetween between 133litres Theordinary ordinaryfeuillette The feuilletteholds (29|gallons, gallons),and gallons,3737gallons), andthe the gallons)and 135litres litres(291and135 36|gallons) (31gallons, gallons,3939 gallons). litres(31 140litres holdsup uptoto140 largefeuillette large feuillelte -Burgundyholds ll2littes (241 holdsbetween betwee,n112 onlyholds TieBurgundy feuillette The feuilletteonly (25gallons, gallons,3131 gallons)' gallons,30! gallons)and litres(25 and114 I 14litres gallons, 30tgallons)

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FEUILLE SCCCHEESE. CHEESE. DREUX - _See DE DREUX FEUILLE DE FEUILLETON slicesof ofveal veal thinslices made from fromthin Preparation made FEUILLETON -- Preparation or laid andlaid of stuffing, and with layersof pork, beaten flat, spread with or pork, beaten fiat, one the up,the been builtup, the other. When Whenitit hasbeen on top top ofof the oneon feuilleton porkcaul, porkfat fatororpork caul, thinslices slicesof ofpork feuilleton isis wrapped ininthin and way. usualway. and braised braisedinin theusual Feuilletoo onVEAU vsAuÀA ITEuILLEToNDE I'ancienne. FEUILLETON vealà l'ancienne. Feuilletmofofvea1 L'ANCIENNE cut lb.),cut kg. @llb.), weighing 22kg. Foraafeuilleton L'ANcrEr.nrE - For feuilleton weighing

base widebase (fiascoininItalian) Italian)with witha awide flask(fiasco FlASQUE Wineftask FIASQUE- -Wine straw. wrappedininstraw. and usuallywrapped andlong longneck. neck.ItItisisusually

I

fish.IlItisis striking in Mediterraneanfish. FIATOLE Flatbroad broadMediterranean FIATOLE- -Flat andspots spotsononitsits leaden golden-yellowbars barsand appearance withgolden-yellow appearancewith

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FIELAS FIÉLAS grey skin. It is fairly delicate to eat. All recipes for turbot grey It is fairly delicate to eat. Ail recipes for turbot (q.v.)skin. are suitable for this dish. (q.v.) are suitable for this dish. F.IEllS Name given in provence the conger eel (q.v.), FIÉLAS - -Name given in Provence totothe conger eel (q.v.), which is one of the ingredients bouillabatrre. ItItcan canbe be which is one of the ingredients ofofbouillabaisse. stewed, cooked m matelote, etc. in the same way as eel. stewed, cooked en matelote, etc. in the sa me way as eel.

FIELDFARE. LrroRNE Large type of thrush with greyish FIELDFARE. LITORNE - - Large type of thrush with greyish head-feathers. It is less delicate than the true thruih. All head-feathers. It is Jess delicate than the true thrush. Ali recipes for thrush (q.v.) are suitable for fieldfare. recipes for thrush (q.v.) are suitable for fieldfare. FIELD-POPPY OIL. HUILE HUrLED'OEILLETTE D'oerLLErrE - - EdibJe Edibleoil oil FIELD-POPPY OIL. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white poppy. obtained by pressing the seeds of the white poppy. This oil is also known in France as white oil and olivette. oil is also known in France as white oil and olivette. ItThis has the same culinary uses as olive oil. It has the same culinary uses as olive oil.

FIG. rrcue Fruit of the fig tree. FIG. FIGUE - - Fruit of the fig tree. a{e_thry types of fig, the white fig, the purple fig, Jhgre are There three types of fig, the white fig, the purp/e fig, and the redfig. These three types are subdivideO into a larg.e and the red fig. These three types are subdivided into a large number of varieties. number of varieties. French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in Var. The ,best-known French figs are grown in the Midi, mostly in Var. The varieties are buissone, buissone, be/lone, belloni, bourjasolle, bourjasotte, best-known varieties are cClestine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are cé/estine col de dame, dauphine violette. These figs are exported fresh between June and November. June and November. exported fresh between The fig is also grown throughout the whole of the MediterThe fig is also grown throughout the whole of the Mediterranean basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs. ranean basin. Algeria is the principal supplier of dried figs .

Branch offig Branch of fig

tree fruits tree with with fruits

Driedfigs. figs.FIGUES FrcuEsSÈCHES sicnns- -InInthe thesouth southofofFrance. France,figs figsare Dried are preservedbybydrying dryingininthe thesun. sun.Very Veryripe ripeautumn autumnfruit preserved fruitisis used. Thefigs, figs,spread spreadout outononhurdles, hurdles,are areexposed exposedtotothe used . The the sun.They Theyhave havetotobebeturned turnedover overseveral severaltimes timesduring duringthe sun. the and,before beforethey theyare arecompletely completely dried, dried,are areslightly drying slightly {ryingand, flattened.Treated Treatedininthis thisway, way,figs figswill willkeep keepa avery verylong tongtime. iime. fiattened. Driedfigs figsare areeaten eatenasasthey theyare. are.They Theycan canalso alsobe Dried bestewed, stewed, likeailallother otherdried driodfruits, fruits,and andare areused usedininvarious varioussweets like sweets pastries. andpastries. and peeland Figfritters. fritters.BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DEFIGUES Frcurs- - Peel quarterthe andquarter Fig the figs.Steep Steepthem themfor for3030minutes minutesininbrandy brandyororsorne someother figs. other andsugar. sugar.Dip Dipthem them ininlight lightbatter barterand anddeep-fry. liqueur, deep-fry. llOueg1 and (SeeFRITTERS.) FRITTERS.) (See Leg ofofwild plg with wild pig withfigs. figs.CUISSOT curssor DE DEMARCASSIN MARcAssrNAUX Leg AUx FIGUES- - Draw Draw the thesinews sinews from from the themeat, meat,wipe FIGUES wipeit,it,thread thread itit withJardoons, lardoons, and place ititininaacooked andplace cooked marinade marinadefor with for10l0days. days. Wipe the the meat meat and and roast roast with withherbs herbsuntil untilcooked cookedbut Wipe butslightly slighily rare. rare. Make aacaramel. caramel. Add Add half half marinade, marinade, ha half vinegar totothe Make If vinegar the residue in in the the roasting roasting pan. pan. Boil Boil this this down poachsorne down and residue and poach some fresh figs figs in in il. it. Drain Drain these theseand andarrange arrange around around the fresh the roast roast leg leg pork. Continue of pork. Continue to to reduce reduce the the liquid, liquid, add of add kneaded kneadod butter, butter. and serve serve this this sauce sauce separately. separately. and F[ marmalade marmalade -- See See MARMALADES. MARMALADES. Fig poRc AUX Pork stew stew with green figs. with green figs. DAUBE olunr DE DE PORC Pork AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs vERrEs -- Brown Brown aa fiUet fillet of of lean lean pork pork inin lard VERTES lard with with chopped chopped onions. Add Add 1I glass glass water, water, and and aa bouquet bouquet of parsley, thyme, onions. of parsley, thyme, and bay bay Jeaf. leaf. Season Season with with salt salt and pepper, Simmer and pepper. and Simmer for for 1I hour. hour. Poach small green figs small green figs in in water. water. Crush pimento in Poach Crush aa pimento in the the juice of of 1I lemon. lemon. Add Add this this to to the pork. Simmer the pork. juice Simmer for for 1I or or 22 minutes and and then then serve pork surrounded serve the the pork surrounded by minutes by the the fig.'). figp. Stewed figs. figs. COMPOTE courorE DE DE FIGUES FrcuEs -- See Stewed See COMPOTE. COMPOTE.-f'rg tart. ttrt. TARTE rARrE AUX AUx FIGUES FrcrJEs -- See See TART. TART. Fig Fig wine wine or or figuette. figuette. VIN vrN DE DE FIGUE, FrcuE, FIGUETIE Fig FTcuETTE -- Medicinal Medicinal drink made made from from dried figs. drink

FILBERT. name for FIL BERT. AvELTNE AVELINE -- Another name for the the hazelnuL hazelnut. The filbert tree, tree, which which produces these these nuts, filbert nuts, is is aa variety variety of the common haze! hazel tree. tree. They They are are called common this because they called this they are ripe about Saint Philbert's day -- 22 August. Recipes for for filbert nuts will be found under HAZELNUT. HAZELNUT. FILLET. FILLET. FrLE'rF1LET- Undercrrt Undercut of sir/oin of ofbeef. of the sirloin beef. A cut taken from the fleshy part part of the buttocks of other animals. animais. For methods methods of of preparation preparation see see BEEF, BEEF, MUTTON, MUTTON, VEAL, PORK. PORK. Filet Filet mignmmignon - Small Smali cut cut of of meat meat taken taken from the the end of of the the beef grilled or or saut6ed. sautéed. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) beef fillet. filleL Filets Fi/ets mignons mignons are grilld This This term term is is also also applied applied to to fillet fillet of lamb lamb (q.v.), mutton mutton (q.v.), (q.v.), veal veal (q.v.), (q.v.), and and pork pork (q.v.). (q.v.). Fillets of fish. fisb. FrLErs FILETS DE DE porssoN POISSON -- Fish Fish cut cut lengthwise lengthwise off off Fillets of the of sole, sole, whiting, whiting, the central central bone bone before before cooking, cooking, e.g. e.g. fillets fillets of etc. etc. Filleb of poultry poultry and and wingd winged game. game. FTLETS FILETS DE DE voLArLLEs VOLAILLES FïUets of ET ETDE DE GrBrERs GIBIERS DE DE pLUrf{E PLUME-- In In France France afilet afi/et as as applied applied to to game game or or poultry poultry is, is, in in the the strict strict sense: sense: l.1. The The under under part part of of the the breast breast of of poultry poultry and and winged winged game. game. 2. 2. The The breasts breasts themselves themselves of of poultry poultry or or game, game, cut cut off off before beforecooking cooking and and prepared prepared in in various various ways. ways. They They can can be be used orwhen whenthey theyare aretoo too fat, fat, as as in in the thecase caseof ofturkeys, turkeys, used whole wholeor cut cut into into thin thin slices. slices. The Thebreasts breastsof ofpoultry poultryand and game gameare aremore more often often known known in in cookery cookeryas assupr€mes. suprêmes.

Besides being the sweetest of all fruits, the fig contains Besides being the sweetest of ail fruits, the fig con tains appreciable of Vitamins Vitamins A, A, B, B, and and C. C. It It has has appreciable quantities quantities of laxative lax.a tive and and digestive digestive properties properties (although (although ifif eaten eaten when when under-ripe risk of of its its causing causing an an irritation irritation of of the the under-ripe there there isis aa risk mouth mouth and and lips). lips). Figs Figs are are more more nourishing nourishing when when dried dried and, and, like prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours like prunes, are improved by soaking for twenty-four hours before before use. use. Fresh Fresh figs figs are are usually usually eaten eaten raw raw in in their their natural natural state. state. They They can can be be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre with with raw raw ham ham in in the the same way as melon. same way as melon. Figs can also be cooked in various ways. ways. All Ali recipes recipes for for Figs can also be cooked in various (q.v.) apricots figs. apricots (q.v.)are are suitable suitablefor for figs. AA fermented fennented drink drink isis made made from from figs, figs, and and also also aa spirit spirit which whichisishighly highly przed prizedby bythe theArabs. Arabs. InIncentral Europe roast figs areused used toto flavour fiavour coffee. coffee, asas central Europe roast figs are chicory France. chicoryisisininFrance. pound sorne Corsican Corsican anchoyade. anchoyade. ANcHoIADE ANCHOIADE coRsn CORSE -- Pound some p".ld figswith withaapinch pinchofofgarlic, garlic,and anddesalted desaltedanchovy anchovy peeledfresh freshfigs fillets. fillets.Spread Spreadthe theresulting resultingpaste pasteon onslices slicesofofbread breadmoistened moistened with witholive oliveoil. oil.Cover Coyerwith withchopped choppedonions. onions.

FILLETTE FILLETTE-- Name Namefor foraasmall smallwine winebottle bottleused used mainlv mainly for for about $tlitre litre (generous (generous }t pint, pint, Anjou wines. wines. Its Its capacity capacity isis about {njou

l|Itcups). cups).

374 374

FISH FISH impossible to to fire, it it was was impossible great heat of the heat of that, in view of the great the fire, during stirred during to be had to which had certain disbes dishes which use use it it for for certain be stirred pots. prepared in in small small cooking cooking pots. which were prepared cooking cooking or or which propped on on firefirewere propped live charcoal charcoal were 'stoves filled 'Stoves filled with with live for height for at aa convenient convenient height hearth and and at the hearth dogs away from from the dogs The kitchen kitchen easier. The much easier. very much working. They made cooking very and kept kept little stoves stoves and off these these little food off ate their their food staff even even ate staff time. same time. warm at the same themselves warm though tbey they were were in design, design, though simple in 'Kitchen firedogs firedogs were simple 'Kitchen apartments living apartments for living designed for care. Those designed forged with great care. Few scroll work. work' Few with scroll richly ornamented with were often often very very ricbly were much have much century have the fifteenth fifteenth century made before firedogs made before the firedogs merit.' artistic meri t.'

FINANCIÈRE (A (À LA) LA) -- Method Method of preparing preparing meat meat and FINANCDRE poultry. poultry. Financiire Financière garnish garnish (which is also also used used to to fill fill pies and vol-au-vent) vol-au-vent) consists consists of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and cocks' and kidneys, quenelles, quenelles, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, mushrooms, olives olives kidneys, and strips strips of of truffies. truffies. and FIN DE DE SIECLE SIÈCLE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. FIN The appellation FINE -- Liqueur Liqueur brandy brandy (spirit of wine). wine). The FINE comes. must be be followed followed by by the the name name of of the the region whence it cornes. must (See (See COGNAC, COGNAC, Fine Fine Champagne.) Champagne.)

to mean sometimes used FINES HERBES -- This term terrn is is sometimes used to FINES rather than a mixture of herbs and and thus an chopped parsley rather parsley in chopped parsley aux fines fines herbes contains only cbopped omelette aux addition to the the usual seasoning. addition herbs, such Actually, fines fines herbes should be aa mixture of herbs, Actually,

polssoNs -- Most world and the the fish fish world edible and Most fish fish are are edible FISH. POISSONS FISH. nourishing The most most nourishing of food. food. The source of an enormous source presents anenormous salmon salmon, salmon then come salmon, lampreys, th river eels eels and and lampreys, fish are are river fish en come eel. conger eel. and tbe the conger herring, and fresh herring, mackerel, turbot, turbot, fresh trout, trou t, mackerel, means are by by no no means they are although they Among the least nourishing, although lemon sole. sole. and lemon sole, and are bream, bream, sole, to be be despised, despised, are to protein as proportion of as meat. meat. ItIt of protein same Fish contains the sa contains the Fish me proportion and contains contains value and food value the same same food has approximately approximately the has rich in in D. ItIt isis rich B and D. Vitamins Band of Vitamins amounts of significant amounts significant and contains contains in calcium, calcium, and deficient in and iodine, iodine, deficient phosphorous and than meat. meat. less iron iron tban less per 75 per much the the same same -- 75 fish isis much all fish content of of aIl The water water content The from species species to to little from vary little also vary The albuminoids albuminoids also cent. The cent. per cent. are fats are The fats 18 per cent. The about 18 species -- they they constitute constitute about species rich in in quantities. There fish very very rich There are are fish variable quantities. found in in more more variable found (26 per rich inin fats fats per cent); fish fairly fairly rich cent); fish such as aseel eel (26 fat fat content, content, such (8'42 per per cent), (12'5 per per cent), cent), shad (8-42 cent), shad such lamprey (12,5 such as as lamprey (7'91 per per cent), and (8'31 per cent), and per cent), sturgeon (7'91 cent), sturgeon mackerel mackerel (8,31 pike, ray ray and and as pike, (6 per fish sucb such as per cent); lean fish and lean herring herring (6 cent); and bream. bream.

as parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, and and chives. as FINTE -- Fish somewhat similar to the shad. Like the shad, FINTE It month later. It it returns to the rivers to spawn, but about a month differs from the shad in shape, being rather more elongated, elongated, di-ffers and unlike the shad it has very sharp teeth in both jaws. The finte the sbad shad (q.v.). as the finte is prepared in the same way as FIRECREST or FIRE-CRESTED WREN. WREN. ROITELET RoITELET -or FIRE-CRESTED FIRECREST

(q.v.). prepared like like lark lark (q.v.). which is prepared Small singing bird which

LANDIER -- Large kitchen andiron. FIREDOG. LANDIER In de du mobilier mobilier français, raisonnd du his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire raisonné In his frangais, de l'époque Le Duc Duc Viollet Le la Renaissance, Renaissance, Viollet l'dpoque carolingienne carolingienne àd la defines in the their uses uses in describes their and describes firedogs and antique firedogs defines antique kitchens of our ancestors: ancestors: 'Stoves much less less compartments were much 'stoves divided divided into several compartments frequently food The food are today. today. The they are than they in kitchens than frequently used used in was understood be readily understood It will will be fire. It the open fire. was cooked cooked over the i:tt: ,

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llll tlilj :rl!i'

Fish (Nicolas) Fish(Nicolas)

375 375

FISH KETTLE KETTLE FISH Recipesfor for different differentfish fishare arelisted listedinintheir their alphabetical alphabetical Recipes order. order. porssoN- Ingredients. Fish mousse. monsse.MOUSSE Moussn DE DE POISSON Fish - Ingredients.1I kgkg (net weight), fish (net weight),44toto55egg (2fpints, whites, li1|litres litres(2i pints, eggwhites, (2i lb.) fish Q+lb.) thickcream, 5f,cups) cups) fresh fresh thick cream,It 1| teaspoons teaspoonssalt, salt, f teaspoon teaspoon pepper, pinch pinch of white pepper, ofspices. spices. white Method. Season Season the the fish fish with pepper,and with salt, salt, pepper, and spi spices, Method. ces, and and pound ininaamortar mortarasasfinely possible. While finely as pounding, add aspossible. While pounding, pound add theegg eggwhites whites aalittle little atataatime. time. Rub Rub the themixture mixturethrougb throughaa the finesieve. sieve. fine pan and Put itit in in aapan (or ininaacool and leave leave to tostand stand on ice(or place) Put onice cool place) for 22 hours. hours. Add Add the thecream, cream,aa little little atataa time, time, stirring stirringwith for with aa wooden spoon. spoon. wooden Fill aa mould mould three-quarters three-quarters full full with Fill with the the mixture. mixture. Stand Stand poach inin aa moderate in water water and and poach moderate oyen. in oven. When When cooked, cooked, leave to to stand stand for for aa few few seconds seconds before leave before turning turning out. out. Appropriate garnishes garnishesare: cancalalse; various ate: cancalaise; Appropriate various species species of of mushrooms sautéed saut6od in in butter; butter; shrimps; mushrooms shrimps; dieppoise; dieppoise; freshfreshwater crayfish; crayfish; Joinville; Joinville; Nantua; Nantua; marinière: water marinidre: mussels; mussels; green peas normande; green peas in in butter; normande; butter; asparagus asparagus tips tips inin butter; butter; prince s s e ; trouvillaise; tr ouv il lais e ; Victoria. Victoria. princesse; garnishes are Recipes for for ail the garnishes given under all the Recipes are given under GARGARNISHES. Fish Fish mousses mousses are are covered NISHES. covered with with one one or or other other of of the the (q.v.) to following sauces sauces (q.v.) following to blend blend with garnish selected: the garnish with the selected: antrore, cardinal, cardinal, cream, cream, shrimp, shrimp, curry, parsley, aurore, curry, diplomate, diplomate, parsley, lobster, Joinville, Joinville, marinière, mariniire, Nantua, Nantua, normande, lobster, normande, ravigote, ravigote, riche, vénitienne, vdnitienne, Victoria, Y ictoria, white white wine. riche, wine. Fish roes roes on m toast. toast CROÛTES cRoOrES AUX Atx LAITANCES Fish LArrANcns -- Poach Poach roes roes juice, and in aa little little butter butter and and lemon lemon juice, place on in and place on rectangles rectangles of of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs bread breadcrumbs which which have have juice over been fried fried in in butter. butter. Squeeze Squeeze lemon lemon juice been put in over and and put in aa hot oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. hot chopped parsley.

st

Fish for for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (French (French Government GovernmentTourisl Tourist Office) Ofice) Fish

The flesh flesh of of fish, fish, therefore, therefore, does greatly in does not not differ differ greatly in The content from from the the flesh flesh of of land land animaIs: animals: itit may perhaps may perhaps content contain slightly slightly less less nitrogenous nitrogenous substances, substances, but but the the fat fat contain proportion of content and and the the proportion mineral isis substantially of mineral substantially the the content particular that samg in in particular phosphorated compounds. that of of phosphorated compounds. Owing Owing same, (particularly lean to the the fact fact that that fish fish (particularly lean fish) fish) is is easily easily digestible, digestible, to is an an excellent excellent food food for for children children and and expectant expectant mothers mothers itit is but itit must must be be fresh, fresh, not not oily, oily, and grilled, in and served served grilled, soup, or in soup, or but baked. baked. practical point From the point of the practical view, itit is of view, is interesting interesting to to note From quantity of the quantity of waste waste of of aa whole whole fish. fish. Thus Thus carp, carp, fresh fresh cod, cod, the and sole sole carry per cent carry 50 50 per cent waste, waste, bass per cent, perch bass 47 47 per perch and and and trout 44 44 per cent, small (such as small frying frying fish fish (such gudgeon and as gudgeon trout per cent, per cent smelts) from from 40 40 per per cent, and the fresh sardine cent to to 30 30 per sardine smelts) per cent. only 20 20 per cent. only Fish is is subject subject to to speedy speedy decay decay by by bacterial bacterial action action and Fish often causes causes food it is absolutely fresh. often food poisoning poisoning if if it is not not absolutely At the freshness freshness of of fish can be recognised by At the the market, market, the fish can the flesh; a c1ean clean fresh smell, without without any the firmness firmness of of the the flesh;a fresh smell, suggestion of sweetish or suggestion of anything anything musty, must y, unpleasant, unpleasant, sweetish pungent; stand out out and pungent; bright bright eyes, eyes, which which should should stand and not not be embedded and bright rod embedded in in the the orbits; orbits; bright bright scales and red gills. trIat FJat fish. fish. porssoNs POISSONS pLATS PLATS - There are are two two kinds kinds of of flat fish: fish flattened flattened vertically vertical/y (such (such as as ray or or skate) the upper, fish: fuh exposed andfish exposed side side being being dark dark and and the underside white; white; and fish flattened flattened laterally, lateral/y, which which are are the real flat flat fish, the white and dark dark sides sides representing representing the the flanks, flanks, the back back and and the belly belly being being represented represented by by the the flattened flattened sides; the two two eyes eyes are both both on on the the same same side (the (the coloured coloured side). Depending Depending on the the position position of of the the eyes, eyes, flat flat fish fish are are classifid classified into into dextral species, species, if if the the eyes eyes lie lie on on the the right right side of of the the head, and and sinistral sinistral species, species, ifif they they are on on the the left. left. The The anus is is always always visible visible on on the the underside. underside. Plaice, Plaice, flounder, flounder, sole, and lemon lemon sole sole are are right-sided; right-sided; while while sardine, sardine, turbot, turbot, and and brill brill are are left-sided. left-sided. Poisonous The flesh flesh of of certain certain varieties varieties of of fish, fish, Poisonous fish fish - The generally generally those those inhabiting inhabiting tropical tropical seas, seas, is is permanently permanently poisonous; poisonous; other other species, species, such such as as grey grey gurnard, gurnard, carpcarpbream, bream, garfish, garfish, etc., etc., become become poisonous poisonous at at certain certain times. times. Venomous These fish, fish, the the flesh flesh of of which which is is often often Venomous fish fish -- These excellent, excellent, must must not not be be confused confused with with fish fish mentioned mentioned in in the the preceding preceding paragraph. paragraph. Venomous Venomous fish fish have have dorsal dorsal f;ns f.ns armed armed with with spines spines which which are are grooved grooved and and provided provided with with poison poison glands. glands. These These can can cause cause very very painful painful and and even even dangerous dangerous wounds wounds ifif they they are are handled handled without without due due preprecaution caution as, as, for for instance, instance, in in the the case case of of the the weever weever or or stingstingfish. fish.

i

porssoN$nn FISH KETTLE KETTLE (Fish boiler). POISSONIÈRE FISH Kitchen Kitchen Oish boiler). utensil intended intended for for cooking utensil cooking fish. fish. ItIt usually usually contains contains aa grid which makes possible to removable grid makes it it possible to take take out out the the fish fish without breaking it. FISSURELLE -- Species gasteropod mollusc in aa conical Species of FISSURELLE of gasteropod shell similar to that of the limpet or barnacle. sheU barnacle. It It has radiating radiating and is is perforated at ribs and tip. Fissurel/es at the tip. Fissurelles live in in temperate temperate and tropical waters and and there and there are about aa hundred different types. The Greek Greekfssnrelle, fissurelle, called types. called Saint Peter's ear, ear, is is very very Mediterranean. common in the Mediterranean. All AU recipes for octopus (q.v.) are suitable for this mollusc.

ffi Fissurelle Fissurelle

Fistulina hepatica Fistulina

FISTULANE -- Common Common French French name name for for a a headless FISTLJLAI\E mollusc also also known known as as gastrochire. gastrochère. lts Its shell sheU is is tubular. mollusc Fistulanes Fistulanes are are cooked cooked in the the same same way way as as cockles cockles (q.v.). (q.v.).

FISTULINA HEPATICA. HEPATICA. FrsruLrNE FISTULINE nfplfleus HÉPATIQUE - A someFISTULINA - A some-

what what tasteless tasteless edible edible fungus fungus which which grows grows on on the the trunks trunks of of oak trees. trees. It is is commonly commonly known known in in France France as langue-delangue-deoak boeuf (ox (ox tongue) tongue) orfoie-de-boeuf or foie-de-boeuf (ox (ox liver). liver). In In U.S.A. U.S.A. itit is is boeuf known as as liver /iver fungus. fungus. known FLAGEOLET -- See See BEAN. BEAN. FLAGEOLET 376 376

1.1. Mimolette Mimolette 2.2. Boulette Boulotto d'Avesnes d'Avesnes 3.3. Maroilles Maroilles 4.4. Maroilles mignon Maroill$ mignon 5.5. Baguette d'Avesnes Baguette d'Avesnes 6.6. Bondard -neufchâtel Bondard'neufchttel 7.7.Camembert Camomb€rt 8.8. Petit cam€mbart Potit camembert 9.9.Triple aromatis6 crCmearomatisé Triplecrème 10. 10,Triple Triplecrême cr6me 11. Brie 11 . Bric 12. Saint-paulin 12.Saint·paulin 13. portions enportions 13.Saint-paulin Saint-paulin en 14. Petit paulin saint-paulin 14. Petitsaint-

15. l'évêque 15. Pont· Pont-l'6v€que 16. - l'évêque pont-l'6v6que 16, Petit Petit pont 17. 17. livarot Livarot 18. 18, Sainte-maure Sainte-maure 19. 19.Coulommiers Coulommiers 20. Carré 2O. Carr6de do l'Est l'Est 21 . Petit l'Est 21. P6tit carré de l'Est carr6 de 22. Munster 22. Munst€r 23. Petit munster 23. Petit munster 24. Baby 24.Baby 25. pour tartine Fromage pour tartine 25.Fromage 26. Comté 26. Comt6 27. Valençay 27. Valengay 28. 28.Chèvre bondes Ch6vrebondes

29. de Chavignol Chavignol 29. Crottin Crottin de 30. chCvre Charolais chèvre 30. Charolais 31. ch6vre 31. Pyramides Pyramides chèvre nantais 32. 32. Curé Cur6 nantais 33. 33. Chabichou Chabichou 34. Toucy 34, Toucy 35. Cantal 35.Cantal 36. nectaire Saint-nectaire 36.Saint37. Saint-gorlon 37.Saint-gorlon 38. Saint-florentin 38.Saint-florentin 39. Epoisses 39.Epoisses 40. Langres 40. Langres 4141. . Bleu deBresse Bresse Bleude 42. 42.Gaperon Gaperon

d' 43. Fourme Fourme d' 43. Bleu d'Auvergne d'Auvergne 44. Bleu 44. Reblochon 45. Reblochon 45. 46. Emmenthal Emmenthal 46. 47. Beaufort Boaufort 47. grise 48, Tomme Tommegrise 48. 49.Saint-marcellin Saint-marc€llin 49. 50.Roquefort Roqu€fort 50. Roquofort en tranches 51.Roquefort entranches 51. Pyr5n6cr desPyrénées 52.Fromage Fromage des 52. Poivred'âne d'tne 53.Poivre 53. Provence Banon de deProvence 54.Banon 54. (grafcheeee) raisin(grafcheese) Fonduau auraisin 55.Fondu 55. Niolo 56. 56. Niolo Asco 57.Asco 57.

FLAN FLAN FLAKES. FLAKES. FLocoN FLOCON -- Name Name given to certain certain cereals, flattened in in aa rolling-mill rolling-mil! and used used (in (in France) France) as a garnish in soups or or as as an an ingredient ingredient ofporridges. of porridges.

FLAKY FLAKY PASTRY. PASTRY. FET.TTLLETAGE FEUILLETAGE -- See DOUGH. DOUGH. FLAMANDE FLAMANDE (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name of of a hotpot hot pot and of of a garnish, which which is is used used especially especially for for large large cuts of of meat meat served as as an

intermediate intermediate course. course. It It consists consists of of braised braised cabbage, cabbage, carrots, carrots, diced diced belly belly of of pork, pork, and and potatoes. potatoes. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) The The name name d à la la flmnande flamande is is also also applied applied to to a method method of of preparing preparing asparagus asparagus (q.v.). (q.v.).

FLAMBER FLAMBER -- To To sprinkle aa dish dish with spirits spirits which are are set alight just before before serving. serving. alight just

FLAMICIIE FLA MICHE -- Legrand Legrand d'Aussy d'Aussy (a (a French French scholar, scholar, 173717371800), 1800), thus th us describd, described theflamiche the flamiche as as it was was made made in in his his day: day:

'It 'It is is aa kind kind of of galette galette made made with with baker's baker's dough. dough. It It is is rolled rolled

out out with with aa rolling-pin rolling-pin and and put put in in the the oven oven while while the the wood wood is is burning. buming. As As soon soon as as itit has has been been thoroughly thoroughly heated, heated, itit isis taken taken out out ofthe orthe oven oven and and spread spread with with butter. butter. It It is is eaten eaten as as soon soon as as itit comes out of of the the oven.' oven.' cornes out Nowadays Nowadays the the name name flamiche flamiche is is given given to to aa kind kind of of leek leek tart tart made made in in Burgundy Burgundy and and Picardy. Picardy. To To make make this this tart, tart, line hne aa buttered buttered tart tart tin tin with with pastry, pastry, fill fill with with sliced sliced white white leeks leeks which which have have been been cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender, tender, blended blended with with yolks yolks of of egg egg and and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Cover Cover with with aa thin thin layer layer of of lining lining pastry. pastry. Press Press the the edges together and and crimp crimp them. them. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and bake bake edges together in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. In of France, France, this this tart tart isis made made with with aa mixture mixture In some sorne parts parts of

offlour, of flour, egg egg yolks, yolks, yeast, yeast, sugar, sugar, and and rum rum or or brandy. brandy. FLAMINGO. FLAMINGO. rrarralNr FLAMANT -- Wader Wader with with webbed webbed feet. feet. The The Romans Romans considered considered itit aa delicacy delicacy though though itit isis now now less less highly highly prized. cooked in in the the same same way way as as bustard bus tard (q.v.). (q.v.). prized. ItIt isis cooked

FLAMIQUE FLAMIQUE -- A A form form of offlamiche flamiche made made in in some sorne parts parts of of

northern northem France. France.

How to to prepare prepare flan flan cases cases How

FLAMRI FLAMRI -- A A semolina semolina pudding, pudding, usually usually served served cold, cold,

add add 300 300 g. g. (1(III oz., oz., l|I~ cups) cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 22 whole whole eggs, eggs, aa pinch pinch of ofsalt salt and and 66 stiffiy stiffly whisked whisked egg egg whites. whites. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture into into aa buttered buttered mould, mould, put put itit in in aa pan pan of of hot hot water, water, and and bake. bake. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Turn Tum out out the the pudding pudding and and pour pour over over itit aa pur6e purée of ofsweetensweetened redcurrants, raspberries). raspberries). ed raw raw red red fruit fruit (strawberries, (strawberries, redcurrants,

Flan cases cases are are made made of of short short pastry, pastry, fine fine lining lining or or ordinary ordinary Flan pastry, pastry, sweet sweet pastry, pastry, semi-flaky semi-flaky pastry, pastry, or or with with left-overs left-overs of puff puff pastry. pastry. of FLAN AUx AUX poMMEs POMMES cRMALDT GRIMALDI -- Cut Cut Apple flan flan Grimaldi. Grimaldi. puN Apple big cooking cooking apples apples into into quarters quarters and and cook cook them them in in vanillavanilla44 big flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain Drain and and arrange arrange in in aa flan flan case case (U.S. (U.S. pie pie flavoured prepared in in the the following following manner: manner: shell) filled filled with with rice, rice, prepared shell) Bake the the flan flan case case blind blind in in aa flan flan ring. ring. When When ready, ready, fill fill Bake with cooked cooked sweetened sweetened rice, rice, mixed mixed with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of with candied orange orange peel peel shredded shredded very very finely, finely, flavoured flavoured with with candied Curaçao, and and with with I1tablespoon tablespoon butter butter added added to to it. it. Curagao,

FLAMUSSE FLAMUSSE (hrrgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) -- Flan Flan made made of of lining lining pastry pastry filled filled with with aa cheese-flavoured cheese-flavoured cream cream blended blended with with

with crushed crushed macaroons macaroons and and castor castor sugar sugar and and glaze glaze in in the the with

covered of raw raw red red fruit. fruit. Boil Boil |t litre litre (scant (seant pint, pint, covered with with aa pur6e purée of

2f 2i

cups) cups) white white wine wine with with the the same same quantity quantity of of water. water. Gradually Gradually pour pour into into itit 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., l|1t cups) cups) fine fine semolina. semolina. Mix. Simmer gently gently for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. To To this this 'porridge' 'porridge' Mix. Simmer

Put the the well-drained well-drained apple apple quarters quarters on on this this rice, rice, sprinkle sprinkle Put oven. oven. This flan flan isis served served hot, hot, accompanied accompanied by by Curagao-flavoured Curaçao-flavoured This Custard crearn cream (see (see CREAM). CREAM). Custard FJan Ià la la bordelaise bordelaise -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind. blind. Fill FiJI with with aa Flan coarse salpicon salpicon of ofbeef beefbone-marrow bone-marrow mixed mixed with with diced, diced, lean, lean, coarse

eggs. eggs.

FLAN -- Pastry Pastry preparation preparation whose whose name name comes cornes from from the the FLAN metallurgical metallurgical term termflan flan (a (a metal metal disc). dise). The The flan flan has has been been in in existence many centuries. centuries. The The Latin Latin poet poet Fortunatus Fortunatus existence for for many (53M09 (530-609 A.D.) A.D.) mentions mentions it. it. He He says says that that Saint Saint Radegonde, Radegonde, as as an an exercise exercise in in mortification, mortification, made made flans flans but but ate ate only only the the

ham and and blended blended with with very very thick thick Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauce cooked ham cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the the top, top, alte.rnating alternating strips strips of of poached poached and and drained, drained, bone-marrow bone-marrow with with fresh fresh mushrooms mushrooms which have have been been sliced sliced and and sauteed sautéed in in oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with which breadcrumbs. Pour Pour on on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown toasted breadcrumbs. toasted hot oven. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. quickly in in aa very very hot quickly bourguignonne -- Bake Bake aa flan flan case case blind. blind. Fill Fill with with FJan iàlala bourguignonne Flan mixture prepared prepared as as follows: follows: Simmer Simmer l0 10 sliced sliced white white leeks leeks aa mixture in butter, butter, without without browning. browning. When When very very tender, tender, add add 33 dl. dl. in pint, l|li cups) cups) Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (soe (see SAUCE) SAUCE) enriched enriched with with $(tpint, dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It c.rp) cup) fresh fresh cream, cream, boiled boiled and and I1 dl.

coarse outer crust crust of ofrye rye or or oatmeal oatmeal dough. dough. coarse outer AAflan flanisisan an open open tart tartfilled filled with with fruit, fruit, cream, cream, etc. etc. Flans can be be served served as as hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or or as as aa light light main main Flans can course, course, and and as as such such have have aa savoury savoury filling. filling. They They are are also also served served as as aa sweet. sweet. Recipes Recipes for for savoury savoury flans flans and and some sorne sweet sweet flans flans are are given given below. below. Recipes Recipes for for sweet sweet flans flans are are also also given given under under TART. TART. (In (In U.S.A. U.S.A. aa flan flan isis known known as as aa tart tart or or pie.) pie.) Flan Flan cases cases -- Made Made in in the the same same way way as as tart tart cases, cases, and and are are

either either baked baked blind blind (unfilled) (unfilled) or or with with the the indicated indicated filling. filling.

377 377 Fresh Freshfruits: fruits:pineapple, pineapple,orange, orange,black, black,red redand andwhite whitecurrants, curranl5, melon, melon,cherries, cherries,apricot, apricot,strawberries, strawberries,mango, mango,raspberries, raspberries,peach, peach,banana, banana, avocado avocadopear, pear,grapefruit, grapefruit,apples apples(Phot. (Phol.Larousse) Larousse)

FLAN strained. strained. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Pour Pour on on melted butter and brown in the oven. oven. Brillat-Savarin flan. flan. FLAN BRILLAT-SAVARIN - Bake blind a flan flan case case made of Fine Fine lining paste (see (see DOUGH). Fill creamy scrambled eggs this cru st with with very very creamy eggs and and trufres. truffies. this crust stripe of seasoned Decorate the the top with strips seasoned truffie dipped dipped in grated Parmesan. melted melted butter. butter. Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan. Pour Pour on melted butter. Brcwn Brown in a very hot oven. re cARorrEs A la flamande. Carrot Carrot flan flan ià la flamande. FLAN FLAN DE DE CAROTTES À LA with finely chopped chopped carrots, FLAMANDEFill an unbaked flan with FLAMANDE - Fill boiled in a little water with butter, sugar, and flavouring to boiled custard, slightly taste. taste. Moisten Moisten with with a a few few tablespoons custard, thickened with potato flour or arrowroot. sprinkle Bake Bake in a moderate oven. Just before before it is cooked sprinkle the oven ove,n until it isis evenly with icing sugar retum to to the until it sugar and and return glazed. This flan can be served hot or cold. glazed. FLAN AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE -- Line a flan ring, standing Cheese flan flan. rulN Cheese (see Fine lining sheet, with with Fine lining paste on a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, paste (see on follows: Boil as follows: mixture preparod DOUGH). Fill Fil! with with aa mixture prepared as g.(2 thick fresh cream with 50 g. (scant pint, 2} 2i cups) thick (2 oz., {t litre (scant salt, pepper and and nutmeg. Add with salt, i cup) butter. Season with cup) butter. (4 oz., g. (4 stove to flour and and mix mix on on the the stove 100 100 g. cup) sieved sieved flour oz., 1I cup) obtain aa rather thick cream. cream. obtain Take the pan off off the heat and add to the cream 4 egg yolks Blend into and 150 g. (5 oz., It cups) grated Gruyère oz.,l| Gruydre cheese. Blend to aa very very stiff the eggs, beaten to the mixture the the whites of the eggs, beaten whites of the foam. Bake the flan in aa hot oven. such as Dutch cheese, Other Other types types of of cheese, cheese, such as Cantal, Cantal, Dutch Parmesan, etc., can be used used for this flan. Parmesan"

pieces. into thick pieces. ragofrt of chicken livers livers cut cut into Prepare aa ragoût quickly in in sizzling saut6 quickly and pepper, and sauté Season with salt and Season pepper, and keep hot. hot. In In the the sa same livers and and keep Drain the livers butter. Drain me butter, (5 oz.) g. (5 Drain and Season. Drain 150 g. sliced mushrooms. Season. oz.) sliced saut6 150 sauté warm with the chicken livers. keep wann pan in ($ pint, into the the pan in scant cup) cup) Madeira Madeira into dl. (t Pour 22 dl. pint, scant cooked. Boil have been which the the livers livers and and mushrooms have which been cooked. (generous -tI pint, pint, I-t l| cups) thn Bdchamel cups) thin down. Add Add 3-t 3+ dl. dl. (generous down. Béchamel cup) fresh cream. sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 dl. (! pint, scant cup) and liver and and mushrooms and Add to this sauce sauce the pieces of liver to this Add sieve and the sauce through aa sieve thick. Strain the fairly thick. cook until fairly put the livers and in it. it. Keep hot without and mushrooms back back in the boil. bringirfg bringirtg to the (they should be Add 2 rather soft). soft). Add some eggs (they be rather Scramble sorne (3 tablespoons) grated Parmesan and 22 tableParmesan and tablespoons) grated tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) livers and butter. Put Put the the chicken livers spoons (3 tablespoons) butter. spoons Cover with with the of the flan. Cover mushrooms at at the the bottom bottom of the flan. mushrooms melted on melted scrambled eggs. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on scrambled very hot hot oven. and brown butter and brown in aa very rtlN D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcRrvtssss ÀA flan àI la la Nantua. Nanhra. FLAN crayfi$ flan Freshwater crayfish Freshwater tail Fill with with Crayfish Bake aa flan flan case case blind. Crayfish tail LA NANTUA -- Bake blind. Fill LA (see CRA mixed with with truffies. truffies. ragofit àh la CRAYFISH) la Nantua (see ragoût YFISH) mixed quickly in hot oven. very hot Brown quickly in aa very Brown lobsters, and shrimps, crabs, lobsters, and spiny spiny All shellfish shellfish flans, with shrimps, AU omitted. can be omitted. in this way. The truffies can lobster are prepared in with case blind. blind. Garnish with h financière financiOre -- Bake aa flan flan case Flan ài la ragofit àd la financidre with concentrated Demifinancière thickened with aa ragoût glace (see (se SAUCE) flavoured with with Madeira. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Madeira. glace oven. in the the oven. breadcrumbs. Brown in Fill with with aa Bake aa flan case blind. blind. Fill la florentine -- Bake flan case Flan àt la squeezed, coarsely coarsely spinach (cooked whole, drained, squeezed, layer of spinach with Mornay Cover with simmered in in butter). butter). Cover chopped, and and simmered chopped, (se SAUCE). grated cheese. on cheese. Pour Pour on sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated sauce hot oven. in aa hot and brown brown in oven. melted butter and melted poIREAUx AU FRoMAGE -AU FROMAGE FLAN DE DE POIREAUX Leek flan flan with with cheese. cheese. FLAN Leek sheet. Lirie Lide with with flan ring on on aa buttered baking sheet. Stand aa large flan Stand (see DOUGH) Remove the DOUGFD and bake blind. blind. Remove Fine lining lining paste (see Line the the flan flan flan on an ovenware dish. Line on an flan ring. ring. Place the the flan ovenware dish. flan (see SAUCE). Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons Mornay with short parboiled for leeks, parboiled for aa very very short few white white leeks, on top aa few Arrange on with mornay mornay sauce sauce in butter. butter. Co Cover time ver with time and and simmered simmered in pour grated Parmesan, Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan, pour enriched with with butter. butter. Sprinkle enriched oven. in the melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in the oven. on on melted onions instead instead of of be made made with This flan with small small onions flan can can also also be This glazed first. first. leeks. The The onions must be be weil well glazed leeks. onions must A LA LA CRÈME cniun -ruN AUX Aux FRAMBOISES FRAMBoIsEs À cream flan. flan. FLAN Raspberry Raspberry cream sugar. raspberries. Cover with sugar. from the the raspberries. Cover with Remove Remove the the stems stems from (see CREAM) flavoured French pastry cream crecun (see CREAM) flavoured Put aa layer layer of of French raspberries and and flan case. with raspberries with vanilla on on aa baked flan case. Cover Cover with jelly. of raspberry raspberry jelly. aa smal! small amount amount of flan case Fill with with chicken chicken reine -- Bake Bake aa flan case blind. blind. Fill Flan Flan ài la la reine (see SALPICON). toasted reine (see Sprinkle with with toasted Salpicon la reine SALPICON). Sprinkle Salpicon àd la hot oven. Decorate the the in aa very very hot oven. Decorate breadcrumbs and and brown brown in with strips strips of of truffle. truffie. top top of of the the flan flan with RICE. Rice flan flan -- See See RICE. Line the the bottom bottom flan case blind. Line Flan la Sagan Bake aa flan case blind. Flan ài la Sagan -- Bake (q.v.) of in truffies blended blendod in with of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffles salpicon (q.v.) with aa salpicon powder. Arrange of Arrange slices slices of curry powder. cream seasoned with with curry cream and and seasoned strip of of top, with with aa strip calves' in butter butter on on top, brains sautéed saut6ed in calves' brains (se, SA SAUCE) truffle UCE) with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see slice. Cover Cover with truffie on on each each slice. pour on grated cheese, on cheese, pour flavoured curry. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated flavoured with with curry. hot oven. oven. in aa hot melted and brown brown in melted butter, butter, and Bake aa flan flan case case of of Seafood Attx FRUITS FRUITS DE DE MER MER -- Bake rrlr.I AUX Seafood flan. flan. FLAN (see DOUGH). pastry (see with aa Fill with paste or DOUGH). Fill Fine Flaky pastry Fine lining lining paste or Flaky (oysters, mussels, crayfish tails, tails, seafood freshwater crayfish ragofrt (oysters, mussels, freshwater seafood ragoût Normande cockles, Blend in in rather rather thick thrck Normande other shellfish). shellfish). Blend cockles, and and other (sw SAUCE). breadcrumbs, sauce with toasted toasted breadcrumbs, SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with sauce (see hot oven. oven. pour pour on brown in in aa hot melted butter, butter, and and brown on melted

(Debillot. Phol. Selection Selection of of flans flans (Debillol. Phot. Larousse) Larousse\

Cheese flan FLAN AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE JULIETTE JULIETTE flan Juliette Récamier. R&amier. FLAN flan ring ring on on aa buttered metal baking Stand aa flan buttered metal - Stand (see DOUGH). paste (see sheet. Fine lining DOUGH). Fill Fill the the sheet. Line Line with with Fine lining paste bottom of the flan flan with with beef beef bone-marrow dipped in in conconof the bone-marrow dipped parsley centrated centrated veal veal stock stock and and flavoured flavoured with with chopped chopped parsley and the moisture has and shallot shallot cooked cooked in in white white wine until until aU all the evaporated. pepper, and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. salq pepper, and grated evaporated. Season Season with salt, FiU French pastry the flan flan half-full half-full of cream cream made made like like French Fill the (see CREAM) grated cheese cream uearn (see with grated cheese but unsweetened, with CREAM) but and oven. and aa little fresh cream cream added. added. Bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. As place on ready, tum on an an As soon soon as as the the flan flan isis ready, turn itit out out and and place ovenware dish. few tablespoons tablespoons dish. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with aa few very very soft soft scrambled scrambled eggs eggs flavoured flavoured with with cheese. cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated grated cheese and and brown brown as as rapidly rapidly as as possible. Chicken FLAN DE Dts FOIES FoIEs DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Chicken liver liver flan flan Chavette. Chavette. FLAN CHAVETTE (see paste (see Make aa flan Fine lining lining paste cHAvETTE -- Make flan case case with with Fine DOUGH) and and bake bake blind. RÉCAMIER nfcltrrnn -

378 378

FLOUNDER FLOUNDER The The purpose of seasoning seasoning is is to to give give relish relish to to food. food. Information relative to aromatic plants and their uses uses in the kitchen kitchen will be found found in the entry entitlod entitled CONDIMENTS.

ShelffiS Shellfisb flan. n,c.N FLAN DE cRUSrAcEs CRUSTACÉS - Using cooked lobster, crayfish, or some sorne other other shellfish, and a sauce sauce appropriate appropriate to the fish chosen, chosen, proceed proceed as indicated in the recipe for Freshwater crayrtshflan crayfish flan dà Ia la Nantua. Sole flan ià la normande. normande. rr,tN FLAN DE sot,Es SOLES A Àu LA NonulNDE NORMANDE Fillets of sole prepared ità la normande anang& as a border normande arranged border in a flan crust. crust. Cover Coyer with Normande sauce (se (see SAUCE) and and garnish garnish as as indicated indicated for for Fillets of sole d à la normande normande (see (see SOLE). Fish flans of of all ail kinds kinds can be made made in the same same way. Fillets Fillets of of fish are are first poached poached in white white wine or or cooked cooked in butter butter and arranged as a border in the flan. flan. Any meatless garnish can be put in the flan and covered covered with a sauce appropriate appropria te to the garnish used.

FLANDERS. FLANDERS. ruNoRE FLANDRE

FLETcISRISIT,TE FLETCHÉRISME - Doctrine established established by Horace Horace Fletcher, Fletcher, American industrialist, who restored his gravely failing health by following an extremely austere diet (after book on on the the subject). subject). He (after having having read read Gornaro's book claimed to to have discovered the the 'golden 'golden key key to to health' in claimed mastication mastication pushed pushed to its extreme limits: not swallowing swallowing aa mouthful mouthful of of food until it was reduced to the state of of a liquid liquid pap and had lost all ail its flavour. flavour.

FLETCHERISM.

FLEUR DE DECAWILLE DECAUVILLE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. FLEUR FLEUR DE FARIhIE FARINE -- Pure wheaten wheaten flour. ITLEUR

The cookery cookery of this this northern northern -- The

FLEURON -- Small Sm ail flaky flaky pastry motif used used to to decorate decorate

province has has much much in in common common with with that that of Artois Artois and and Picardy. Picardy. C\finary chitterlings of Cambrai and and Culinary speialities specialities - Baby chitterlings Armentidres; Armentières; smoked smoked tongues tongues of of Valenciennes; Valenciennes; craquelots craquelots of Dunkirk (herrings (herrings smoked with the leaves of the hazelnut tree); tree); soupe verte (green soup); Flemish hotpot; hotpot; poule poule au au prunes; tartine de blanc white sauce); sauce); rabbit rabbit with withprunes; blanc (chicken in white

certain top of ofpdtis pâtés in pastry pastry crust. certain dishes dishes and the top

FLELTRS FLEURS DE DE VINVIN - Little Little whitish whitish or bluish bluish flakes, caused caused by development of of mycoderma mycoderma vinr, vini, which appear in wines wines the development The appearance appearance of of these these flakes flakes generally on the the turn. turn. The on precedes acid fermentation. fermentation.

FLOATING ISLAI\D. ISLAND. lrr ILE rlormNru FLOTTANTE - Cut into thin layers layers FLOATING a stale Savoie (sponge) (sponge) cake. cake. Steep the slices in kirsch and

beurre. beurre.

Among are; apple Among the the best-known best-known sweets and and pastries pastries are: apple pdti pâté of of Avesnes; craquelins craquelins of Roubaix; caruis carrés of Lannoy; kokeboterom of Dunkirk (small buns made made with eggs and and butter, butter, sweetened sweetened and and decorated with with raisins); red plum plum

sprinkle maraschino. Spread Spread each one with apricot apricot jam and sprinkle maraschino. currants. with chopped blanched almonds and dried currants. Build up the cake into its original original shape by laying the slices one on top of of the other. Ice with Chantilly Chantilly ueon cream (see (see CREAMS) flavourod flavoured with with vanilla. Decorate Decorate with almonds, CREAMS) chopped pistachio Pour chilled vanillavan illapistachio nuts, and currants. currants. Pour flavoured flavoured custard over the cake. The The pulp pulp of strawberries, raspberries, or or redcurrants, redcurrants, be used used instead of of custard. may be sieved and sweetened, may

tarts: tarts; couques; bAtises bêtises from Cambrai. Cambrai. Good Good cheeses cheeses are are made made in in French Flanders. Those Those of Bergues, Bergues, Mont-des-Cats Mont-des-Cats and and Marolles Marolles (a (a very very pungent pungent cheese) cheese) are are the best best known. known. Beer is the the local local drink, drink, and and good good quality quality spirits spirits are Beer is distilled from from juniper juniper and beetroot. beetroot.

FLORENTII{E FLORENTINE (A (À LA) -- Method Method of preparation used used mainly of spinach cooked in mainly for fish and and eggs, eggs, set on a bed of butter, covered with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with and browned. browned. with grated cheese, cheese, and

FLANGNARDE -- This flan, flan, which which is is sometimes called ca lied flognarde, is is made made in in Auvergne Auvergne and Limousin. Limousin. flognarde, Put 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant i cup) flour in a bowl. bowl. Break 33 eggs smooth eggs into into it. Add Add aa very very little little salt. Sweeten. Sweeten. Mix to a smooth paste, paste, adding Ii litre (lj (l~ pints, pints, l| li pints) milk, milk, boiled boiled and cooled. Flavour Flavour with with vanilla vanilla or grated grated lemon lemon rind. Pour Pour through through a strainer into a deep buttered buttered ovenware ovenware dish. Dot Dot with with small pieces of of butter butter and and bake bake in in aa hot hot oven. oyen. Serve hot or cold. cold.

FLOUNDER. ftlN -- Common FLOUNDER. rLEr, FLET, rT FLÉTAN Common name name for a fish of the the same same family as as the the brill, brill, dab, dab, lemon sole, sole, sole, sole, and these others never leave leave the sea, sea, flounders, turbot. While these though though also saltwater saltwater fish, fish, are often found in fresh fresh water. They are even caught in the River Seine between between Pont-dePont-deI'Arche l'Arche and and Les Les Andelys. Andelys. The flounder is oval in shape, covered with tiny scales. scales. They colour from from greenish greenish brown brown to to blackish blackish They vary vary in in colour yellow, yellow, with with yellow, yellow, orange, or reddish reddish markings. markings. In In France, France, the the flounder flounder is is sometimes sometimes known known asflandre asflandre (or flondre) de de riviire rivière or or de de picard picard. In In former former times times it it was was flondre) incorrectly flétan (halibut) which which is is in fact, a quite quite incorrectly called ca lied flitot different northern waters. waters. different fish, fish, found in in northern In northern countries of of Europe, Europe, especially Norway, Norway, In northern flounders flounders are preserved preserved by by drying and smoking. smoking. All Ali recipes recipes for brill briU (q.v.) (q.v.) and and turbot turbot (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for for flounders. flounders. The The flounder flounder plays plays an an important part part in in American American cookery, cookery, often often taking taking the the place place of of sole and and turbot turbot which which are are not not found found in in American American waters waters and, and, having having to to be be imported, imported, are are rather rather expensive. expensive.

FLAh{K. FLANCHET - Cut Cut of of beef beef between between the the fat fat section section and and FLANK. FLANcHETthe the breast. breast. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) FLATTEN. FLATIEN. ArLATIR APLATIR -- Action Action which which renders renders a piece piece of of meat meat (mtrec6te, (entrecôte, rump rump steak, steak, escalope, escalope, cutlet, cutlet, noisette, noisette, etc.) etc.) thinner beater or mallet. mallet. Flattening Flattening thinner by by beating beating it it with a beater meat meat makes makes itit easier to to cook cook and and makes makes it more more tender. tender.

FLAVOURING. plnrur PARFUM -- Before Before the the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, flavourings very today were were very different from from those those in in use use today employed aromatic employed often often excessively. excessively. As As well weil as as the the simple aromatic plants, plants, such such as as thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, savoury, coriander, coriander, aniseed, aniseed, marjoram, marjoram, and and sage, sage, more more exotic exotic aromatics aromatics like essence essence of of roses roses or other other flowers, flowers, benzoin, benzoin, amber, amber, etc., etc., were were quite quite common. common. These These aromatics aromatics are are now now only only used used in in very very small doses doses in in the preparation of of sweet sweet courses, courses, in in pastry-making pastry-making and and the preparation confectionery. confectionery . Liqueur Liqueur wines wines such such as as Madeira, Madeira, Frontignan, Frontignan, porl port, sherry, sherry, etc. are widely widely used used nowadays nowadays for for flavouring. flavouring. etc. are Various Various brandies brandies (Cognac, (Cognac, Armagnac, Armagnac, Calvados, Calvados, etc.) etc.) are are used used for for flavouring flavouring sauces sauces and and gravies gravies and and for for bringing bringing out out the the taste taste of of preparations preparations such such as as game game stews, stews, salmis, salmis, shellfish shellfish dà l'amiricaine l'américaine or or dà la la bordelaise, bordelaise, woodcockflambi, woodcockflambé, pressed pressed wild wild duck, duck, etc. etc.

Flounder Flounder

379

FLOUR FLOUR. FARINE FARINE -- Flour ground and Flour isis the the finely finely ground and bolted bolted FLOUR. meal of of wheat wheat and and other other cereals, cereals, including including rye, rye, buckwheat, buckwheat, meal (corn), but rice oatmeal oatmeal and and maize maize (corn), but since since wheat, wheat, with with its its rice gluten, isis best content of of gluten, for breadmaking, best for breadmaking, the the word word flour flour content generally connotes connotes wheat wheat flour. flour. The The milling grain for milling of of grain for generally flour dates dates back prehistoric times. back to to prehistoric times. What What for for centuries centuries flour job of was the the hard hard domestic producing flour domestic job of producing flour that that could could be be was made into into bread, bread, has has developed developed through through the the ages ages into into aa made large industry. industry. There There isis evidence evidence that that wheat wheat or or corn corn was was large crushed and and used used as as food food atat least years ago; least 6000 6000 years ago; the the crushed pounding stones purpose have stones used used for for this this purpose have been been discovered discovered pounding in archaeological archaeological diggings diggings in in the the British British Isles, Isles, Switzerland, Switzerland, in and elsewhere. elsewhere. and The Romans Romans invented invented slightly slightly conical (querns) conical millstones millstones (guerns) The which were were turned turned by by hand hand or or by by slave slave and and beast. beast. Once Once the the which grain was was crushed, crushed, the the flour flour was was bol boltod through horsehair horsehair grain ted through produce different sieves to to produce grades of different grades of flour. flour. The The invention invention of of sieves the water-propelled water-propelled mill mill dates dates from from about about the the time time of of the the the birth of of Christ, Christ, and and itit was was also also at at this this time time that that flat flat millmillbirth stones were preference ta were used used in in preference to conical conical shapes. shapes. stones Windmills first first appeared appeared in in Europe Europe about about 1300 13CI and and were were Windmills used until until the the invention invention of of the the steam steam engine engine in in 1760. 1760. widely used From then then on on rapid rapid advances advances were were made, made, culminating culminating in in From roller mills, mills, invented perfected in invented and and perfected in Switzerland Switzerland between between roller 1834 and and 1836. 1836. The The roller roller system, system, with with many many modern modern 1834 mechanical improvements, is is stiJl still in in use use in in aU large comcomall large mechanical mercial mills.

grades)depending clear grades) germand depending on on the theamount amount of ofgerm andbran c1ear bran leftinin the theendospenn endosperm flour. flour. Freshly Freshlymilled milledwhite white flour flour isis left pale yellow yellow but butbecomes becomes whitewith white with ageing. ageing.To Tohurry hurry this this pale process most most mills mills use useaachemicaJ chemicalagent agent which which isisrigorously rigorously process government. Vitamin controlled by by the the government. Vitamin content controlled content lost lostininthis this process isisusually usually replaced. replaced. process Dietitians blame processes for blame modern modern milling milling processes forcausing Dietitians causing the the lossof of certain certain essential essential elements proteic layer Theproteic elements of loss ofwheat. wheat.The layer one. ItIt contains protein substances, contains three three times times more moreprotein isis one. substances, nine nine times more more fatty fatty substances, substances, and times and ten ten times timesmore moreminerai mineral salts than than the the farinaceous farinaceous kernel kernelof salts grain. Then Thenthere ofgrain. thereare arethe the vitamins, diastases, diastases, enzymes, whichaccumulate vitamins, enzyrnes,which accumulate ininthe thehusks. husks. The same same applies applies to to the the wheatgenn, wheatgerm, which The which contains contains ininits its very small small volume, volume, substances substances of very of immense nutritional value. immense nutritional value. great elasticity The great elasticity of preventsitit being The of the the wheatgenn wheatgerm prevents being crushed in in the thecourse processes,and crushed course of of modern modern milling milling processes, andititisis consequently discarded conseguently discarded with with the theother waste matter. matter. other waste Graham flour flour isis unbolted ground from Graham unbolted wheat meal ground wheat meal from the the whole kernel. kernel. Whole tire wheat whole Whole wheat, wheat, wholemeal wholemeal or or enentire wheat contains con tains aU all of of the the kernel kernel except portion of except aaportion the bran. of the bran.

FLOLTRING. FARINER FLOURING. rlnrnm. -- To To sprinkle sprinkle fish fish or or other other food food lightly with lightly with flour. flour. pieces of To To dip dip inin flour flour small small pieces of meat, meat, usually usually escalopes escalopes and and cutlets cutlets of of veal, veal, and and lamb lamb cutlets, cutlets, before before dipping dipping ininegg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and frying in and frying in butter. butter.

(Atsatiur cookery) FLOUTES FLOUTES (Alsation cookery) -- Quenelles made with with Quenelles made potatoes. mashed mashed potatoes. FLUKE. FLLjKE.

See PLAICE. PLAICE. - See

CARRELET cARR.ELET -

FLUORINE. FLUORINE. FLUOR, FLUoR, FLUORURES FLUoRUREs-- Under Under nonnal normal conditions, conditions, man man absorbs quantities of absorbs small small guantities of fluorine fluorine with with his his food, food, the the most most valuable valuable source source being being drinking drinking water. water. Children Children who who drink drink water water that that isis deficient deficient in in fluorine fluorine are are much much more more susceptible susceptible to to dental dental caries caries than than children children who who live live where where tains not the the drinking drinking water water con contains not less less than per than 1I mg. mg. fluorine fluorine per litre. litre. Foods Foods richest richest in in fluorine fluorine are fish and are fish and tea. tea. Small Small amounts present in amounts of are present of itit are in meat, meat, egg, egg, cow's cow's milk, milk, and and fresh fresh vegetables. FLÛTE FLtnE -- The The long long French popular in French roll roll popular the Paris Paris region. region. in the The The flûte potage is long French is aa long French roll roll used used for for making making fl,frte àd potage crof,ttes served croûtes served with with broths and and hotpots. hotpots. FLUTE. FLUTE. CANNELER cANNELER -- The The operation operation of of cutting cutting vegetables, vegetables, fruit, fruit, and and the the edges edges of of sorne some sweet sweet courses courses in in aa decorative decorative manner. manner. Vegetables, Vegetables, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and lemons lemons can can be be decoratively cut cut with with kitchen kitchen knives knives or or with with special special tools. tools. Circles of pastry pastry cut with aa fluted-edged pastry-cutter are cut with fluted-edgod pastry-cutter are said to be be cannelés. cannelis. The The same same tenn term is is used used for for the the operation operation of marking marking the the sides sides of of aa cake with with aa small small knife, knife, although although this is is more often called (pinking). called chiquetage chiquetage (pinking).

Flour Flour (.|[icolas) (Nicolas)

FOGOSCH -- This Hungarian Hungarian fish (q.v.). fish is is aa pike-perch (g.v.).

The wheat kernel is composed of three parts; endosperm, genn germ or or embryo, embryo, and bran. The The object object of ofmilling milling is to separate the endosperm from the bran bran and germ, germ, because white flour the endosperm is is derived derived from the the endosperm endospenn which generally comprises comprises 84 84 per per cent cent ofthe of the kernel, as opposed opposed to the 2 per cent content content

FOIE GRAS GRAS -- Preparations made from the livers of the livers of fattened fattened geese and and ducks ducks were were known in the the ancient world. world. The goose was The goose was regarded regardd by by the the Romans Romans not not only only as as aa sacred en aa goose (from the sacred animal animal (from goose saved the time time wh when savd the the Capitol), but also also as as aa succulent succulent one, one, for for its its meat meat and and liver liver were highly highly prized by gounnets gourmets of the period. of the The Romans used various methods Romans used methods of of fattening fattening ducks ducls and and of causing causing a considerable swelling of of the the liver. Scipio Metellus, Scipio Metellus, aa Roman Roman gastronome, had had the the idea idea of of plunging the still wann warm livers in in aa bath bath of of milk milk and honey, and honey, where they were were left for several several hours. hours. When When taken taken out out of of the milk, the livers were were considerably swollen. swollen. In cookery the the name name foie foie gras is used only goose or is used only of of goose or a special duck liver fattened in a special way. way. The The livers livers of Toulouse of Toulouse Strasbourg geese geese sometimes kg. (41 lb.). and Strasbourg ($lb.). sometimes weigh weigh 2zkg.

of germ germ and and 14 14 per cent content content of bran. bran. Modern commercial milling milling of wheat first first cleans the grain by means of mercial air blasts blasts and and disk disk separators. separa tors. After After this this the the wheat wheat is is air moistened and allowed allowed to 'temper', 'temper', a process process which hardens hardens moistenod the bran bran and and makes makes the the separation separation more more complete. the is accomplished accomplished by by alternated alternated reductions reductions Separation is Separation (rollings (rollings at at varying varying tensions), tensions), and and purifications (classifica(classificathe endotions by by mechanised mechanised winnowing winnowing and and sifting of the tions spenn particles, particles, the the bran bran chips and and the the germ). genn). The results results spenn of the se successive successive reductions reductions and purifications purifications are blended ofthese into various various standard standard and and commercial commercial blends (patents and into 380 380

FOIE GRAS

A A hinged rectangular rectangular mould mould and a hinged round round mould mould for pit6 pâté (D (Dehillerin. Phol. Larousse) ehille r in. P ho t. Lar ous se) PAt6 Pâté de foie gras gras decorated by by hand, from an l8th 18th century century document document

Foie Foie gras gras is is regarded regarded as as one one of the the greatest delicacies delicacies available. available. 'The 'The goose,'says goose,' says C. G6rard, Gérard, author author of of L'Ancienne L'Ancienne Alsace Alsace d à table, table, 'is 'is nothing, but man man has has made made of it it an instrument instrument for the the output of of a marvellous marvellous product, a kind of living living hothouse hothouse in which which grows grows the the supreme supreme fruit fruit of gastronomy.' gastronomy.' This This 'fruit' 'fruit' isfoie isfoie gras, gras, from from which which are made made the the succulent succulent potted potted products products and and pdtds pâtés of Strasbourg, Strasbourg, Toulouse, Toulouse, P6rigueux, Nancy, etc. etc. Périgueux, Nancy, The foies gras gras comes cornes from geese reared reared in Alsace Alsace The finest finest foies and south-westem south-western France. France. Toulouse Toulouse foies foies gras are greatly greatly sought Duck foie foie gras gras is is also aJso very delicate, but has a sought after. Duck tendency in cooking. cooking. Other Other European European tendency to to disintegrate disintegrate in goorefoie countries countries besides besides France France produce produce very very good good go ose foie gras, gras, notably notably Austria, Austria, Czechoslovakia Czechoslovakia and the Duchy Duchy of of LuxemLuxemburg. burg. The The quality of of foie foie gras gras can be judgd judged primarily by its can be colour and It should be be creamy-white, creamy-white, and also also by by texture. texture. It tinged tinged with with pink, pink, and very firm. tr'oie Foie gras gras aspic aspic -- See ASPIC. ASPIC. Foie Foie gras gras en en Bellevue Bellevue - Line a a plain mould mould with jelly. Decorate Decorate with with strips strips of of trufte truffie and the the whites whites of of hard boiled boiled egg. of jelly. jelly. Leave on ice egg. Cover Coyer these these with with aa second second layer layer of until foie gras gras or until thoroughly thoroughly set. set. Add Add slices slices of poached foie slices of of potted potted foie foie gras gras with with truffies. truffies. Fill the the mould mould with with slices half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Chill Chili on on ice. ice. Foie gras gras en en brioche brioche (hoQ (hot) - Season Season truffies truffies and and pour Foie brandy over over them. them. Take Take aa large, large, very very firm firm foie foie gras gras which which brandy will will not not disintegrate disintegrate in in cooking. cooking. Stud Stud itit with with the the trufres, truffies, and and season season with with spiced spiced salt. Pour Pour brandy brandy over over it it and and leave leave to to steep for for several several hours hours in this this seasoning. seasoning. steep Wrap the the foie foie gras gras tn in aa piece piece of of pork pork caul cau! (or in in very thin thin Wrap slices slices of of pork pork fat) fat) and and cook cook in a slow oven oyen for for 18 18 to 20 20 minutes. Put itit in in aa buttered buttered baking baking tin tin lined lined minutes. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Put thickly with with unsweetened unsweetened Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). thickly Coyer with with aa layer layer of of dough. dough. Tie Tie aa strip of of buttered buttered paper paper Cover round round the the tin tin to to prevent prevent the the dough dough from from overflowing overflowing during during baking. Leave Leave to to rise rise in in aa warm warm place. place. baking. in a a hot hot oven oyen for for 50 50 minutes minutes to to 1 hour. hour. To test test Bake in Bake foie gras gras is is cooked, cooked, drive drive in aa long long skewer. If If whether the the foie whether the skewer skewer comes cornes out out quite quite clean, clean, the/oie the foie gras gras is is ready. ready. Turn Turn the out the the brioche brioche and and serve. serve. out Foie gras gras en en brioche brioche (colO (cold) -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie Foie gras gras en en Foie brioche (hot). (hot). Leave Leave to to cool cool before before serving. serving. brioche Foie gras gras en en chausson chausson -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Foie Foie gras gras en en brioche. brioche. Foie Stud the/o,egras thefoie gras with with truffes truffies and and cook cook for for 18 18 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Stud Put itit on on aa rather rather stifflayer stiff layer of of Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Put Roll in in aa scroll scroll shape. shape. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. Serve Serve hot hot or or cold. cold. Roll Foie grre gras en en cocotte cocotte or or €n en casserole casserole -- Trim Trim aa large, large, firm firm Foie

gras and stud stud with truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with Spiced saft salt (see foie gras SALT) and sprinkled sprinkled with brandy. Season Season thefoie the foie gras with with brandy and leave to steep for 12 hours. spiced salt, pour on brandy Brown Brown thefoie the foie gras in very hot butter. butter. Put in an ovenware dish. Moisten with the cooking Madeira cooking butter mixed with Madeira or any other heavy heavy wine and concentratod concentrated thickened brown veal veal stock. stock. Cover Coyer the the dish dish and and seal with a a strip strip of paste. oyen for 45 minutes to I1 hour, according according to Cook in a slow oven the size of the the foie foie gras. Serve in the cooking cooking dish. croquettes and kromeskies. c6rerrrres, C6TELEITES, Foie gras cutlets, croquettes CROQUETTES, cRoMnseurs CROMESQUIS DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS - These cRoeLrETTEs, These different preparations, preparations, which are served as as hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or as as a are made from salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of liver, liver, light main course, are light from salpicon added, in the same sa me way as as chicken cutlets, cutlets, diced trufres truffies added, with diced croquettes and kromeskies (see CHICKEN). 'eggs' (cold). onups OEUFS DE DE Fom FOIE cRAs GRAS FRorDs FROIDS - Foie Foie gras 'eggs' gras gras mousse (see (see MOUSSE) shaped shaped in in little little egg-shaped mou Ids. A truffie is is placed in the middle of each each mousse moulds. which wruch is coated coated with jelly jelly when it is quite cold and covered covered with brown or white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with The 'eggs' are built buiJt up into a pyramid or put in a nest of through a forcing-bag. forcing-bag. butter piped through Escalopes of foie gras Cambac6rts Cambacérès -- Saut6 Sauté slices of of foie foie Escalopes gras gras tn in butter. butter. Put each one on an artichoke artichoke heart cooked in salpicon of of mushrooms in cream. cream. butter and filled with a salpicon escalope arrange 2 thick strips of truffie. truffie. On top of each escalope Dilute the the cooking cooking butter butter with Madeira, Madeira, thicken thicken with DemiDilute glace (see SAUCE), SA UCE), flavour with Truffie Truffle essence, and pour the dish. dish. over the Escalopes of foie foie gras en chaud-froid -- Slices of of foie foie gras gras Escalopes (plain or truffied) truffied) covered covered with white white or brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid Decorate with trufles, truffies, whitc whites of hardsauce (see SAUCE). Decorate sauce boiled eggs, eggs, pickled pickled tongue, ton gue, and jelly. jelly. boiled The escalopes can be be served in individual individual paper cases, or in silver, porcelain, porcelain, or or glass shells; shells; each on aa bed bed of of chopped in jelly. jelly. They can can also also be arranged in a circle circle on a bed of set set jelly jelly in in aa bowl, bowl, and covered covered with jelly. jelly. Escalopes of foie foie gras gras with witb grapes. grapes. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE Escalopes GRAS AUx AUX RAISINS RAISINS -- Saut6 Sauté slices of/ore of foie gras gras rn in butter. Drain cRAs put each each on a slice of bread bread fried in butter. Decorate Decorate and put juices with with peeled peeled grapes. grapes. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cookingjuices with Frontignan with or other other heavy wine. wine. Boil Boil down, add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons or brown veal veal stock, stock, and and boil boil again. again. Cover Coyer the the thickened brown thickened escalopes with with this this sauce. sauce. escalopes Escalopes of foie foie gras gras with with grspes grapes and and tmffies truffles (colQ. (cold). Escalopes ESCALOPES DE DE ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS AUx AUX RAISINS RAISINS ET ET ALrx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES -- Cook EscALopEs the foie foie gras gras tn in its its own own fat. fat. Cut in slices. On top of each each the truffie, dipped dipped in in jelly jelly so that it slice place place aa wide wide strip of truffe, slice will stick stick to to the the escalope. escalope. Glaze GIaze with with jelly. jelly. will

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FOIE FOIE GRAS GRAS with with truffies truffies and and the the whites whites of of hard-boiled hard-bolled eggs. eggs. Fill Fil! only only to to within within I1 cm. cm. G (t inch) inch) of of the the top. top. Cover Coyer the the mousse mousse with with aa layer layer of ofjelly. jelly. Chill Chill in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Turn Turn out out onto onto aa buttered buttered slice sUce of of bread bread or or onto onto aa serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with chopped ehopped jelly jelly and and make make aa border border of of jelly cut eut out out with with aa pastry-cutter.

Arrange Arrange the the escalopes escalopes in in aa circle cirde in in aa bowl. bowl. In In the the middle, middle, heap heap aa dome dome of of fresh fresh peeled peeled grapes which which have have been been steeped steeped in in aa little IiUle liqueur liqueur brandy. brandy. Cover the the dish dish with with clear cJear jelly jelly ffavoured fiavoured with with port port or or other other heavy heavy wine. wine. Chill Chill thoroughly thoroughly on on ice ice or or in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. J<.:s.calop,es of of foie foie gras Montrouge M4:lDtrOllji!e - Saut6 Sauté slic'a sUces of offoie Escalopes foie gras in in butter. butter. Arrange in aa circle, circle, each on on aa slice slice of of bread bread fried in butter. butter. Pile pile tfuck Mushroom Mushroom purde purée (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) in in the the in middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the escalopes escalopes with with their their cooking cooking juices juices diluted dîluted with with Madeira Madeira and and veal veal stock. stock. Escalopes Esocalop;es of of foie foie gras gras Richelior Ricbeliw - Dip Dip slicer slices of of foie foie gras gras in in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6 Sauté in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in aa circle cirde on a dish" dîsh, and and pour pour over the,m them diced diced truffies truffies in in in melted melted butter butter flavoured flavoured with with a Cl little liule Madeira Madeira or or other other heavy heavy wine. wine. Escalopes ~alopes of of foie gras à la la romaine romaine - Saute Sauté slices of of /oie foie gras rn in butter. butter. Arrange on rounds rounds of of bread bread frid fried in butter. butter. Cover with Romaine Romaine sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve with with rice rice cooked in butter. butter. Escalopes of of foie foie gras with with tmfres. truffies. BscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE DE FoIE fOrE GRAS GRAS A(x AUX rRuFFEs TRUFFES -- Saut6 Sauté slices of/orr offoie gras rn in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on on rounds of of bread fried in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with slices of of trufre truffle heated heated in the butter butter in which whîch the escalopes escalopes have have been been cooked. Dilute Dilute the cooking cooking juices juices with Madeira Madeira or other other heavy wine wine and Demi-glace (se (see SA:UCE), SAUCE), and pour pour over the dish. Stud a foie gras Foie gras à la financilre financière - Stud gras with with truffies. truffies. on brandy brandy and saft (see SALT). Pour on with Spiced salt Season with leave leave to steep for a a few few hours in in this seasoning. Wrap the slices of of pork caul or foie gras in pork park caul or thin thin slices pork fat. fat. Cook in aa foie 45 minutes. Madeira, for 40 to 45 adding Madeira, braising stock, addil1g braising of bread on slices slices of serve on Drain, and Serve Drain, and bread fried fried in in butter. Sur(see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) to which round with Financiire Financière garnish (see which has been and straÎned, strained, has stock, concentrated and the braising the braising stock, added. more This dish is DE FOIE FoIE G{{AS GRAs -- This PAIN DE loaf (hot). PAlN Fofu gras loar îs more on as such such on describod as usually described and is is usually aa souffi6 than than aa loaf and (hot)') gras mou.sse (See MOUSSE, mousse (hot).) Fol'e gras MOUSSE, Foie restaurant menus. (See Ll GELÉE crrfn A LA DE FOrE FoIE GRAS GRAs À gras loar rarN DE in jelly. loaf in Foie gras Foie ielly. PAIN jellied stock. stock. Madeira-flavoured jellied in Madeira-flavoured liver in large fat fat liver Poach aa large Poach slices. cut one lobe into slices. drain, and cut Cool, drain, poached, liver was was poached, liquor in which the liver Remove fat from the liquor Remove jellied stock based on on quantity of stock base
Foie gras gras motrsie mousse (hot) - See MOUSSE. Foie Foie gras gras mousselines (colo. (cold). MoUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS Use Use the the same same mixture mixture as as for for Foie Foie gras mousse mousse (cold). (cold). Put Put jelly. into into little little cups and and decorate decorate with with trufres. Glazp Glaze with wi\.h jelly. Dicd Diced truffies may may be be added added to to the the mixture' mixture. Foie Foie grre gras pancakes pancakes à la la P6rigottrdine. Périgourdine. plNuEQUErs PANNEQUETS DE DE FoIE FOrE cRAs GRAS A À r-1, LA pfntcouRDINE PÉRIGOURDINE - Make Make thin thin unsweetened unsweetened chopped pancakes. pancakes. Fill Fîll them them with with foic gras mixed mixed with with truffies truffies and and flavoured flavoured with a a little Armagnac. Roll the pancakes pancakes into into scrolls, serolls, trim trirn at at each each end, end, and halve halve them. them. Put Put them them on on a a buttered buttered disb, dish, sprinkle sprinkle lightly lightly with will fried fried in the oven. breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and wann warm for for aa few few minutes minutes in the oyen. Foie Foie grre gras with with paprika (colO. (cold). FoIE fOIE cRAs GRAS AU AU PAPRIKA PAPRIKA - Stud Stud thefoie the foie gras gras with trufles. trumes. Season Season with with salt salt and and paprika, paprika, and and pour pour brandy brandy over. over. Wrap Wrap itit in in aa piece piece of of pork park caul caul and and poach poach to cool. Unwrap, leave in in Madeira. Madeira. When When cooked, cooked, drain drain and and leave to cooL Unwrap, with Chaud-froid press into into shape in in a a cloth. cloth. Cover Cover with Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured with with paprika. paprika. Decorate Decorate with witb strips strips of of truffe, truifle, and and green green and and red red sweet sweet peppers, peppers, cut eut into iDto rings rings seconds in and and poached for for a a few few seconds in jelly. jelly. and cover Glazn the foie gras gras with with jelly. jelly. Put Put it it in in a a dish dish and caver or other with clear jelly flavoured fiavoured with with port port or other heavy wine. wine. Parfait of foie gras Parfait gras (cold) (cold) - Name Name given given to to several preparapreparaanother. one another. quite considerably considerably from tions tions which whjch differ differ quite from one of foie was aa mousse of foie grat was In ID former former times times aa parfait of mousse of studded with with gras tnjelly. gras in jelly. Nowadays it is a whole/oie gras, studded stock, cooled cooled poached in in a truffies, truffies, poached a Madeira-flavoured jellied stock, injelly. served in and served and jelly. as aa parfait describe as cookery describe on cookery writers on Some writers Sorne parfait aa pdti of an ordinary from an differs from pastry crust which differs crust which in pastry foie gras gra:; in foie pockets empty pockets of the the empty gras, only instead of only because because instead pdti fu foie gras, pâté de pdt6 is being (which appear is cold) cold) being the pâté appear when when the surface (which on the the surface on jelly. with jelly. filled with are :6Hed fat, they are or goose fat, with butter butter or filled with filled 'To 1I kg. kg. P6riguurx (old recipe) - 'To foie grs de Périgueux Pltd of of foie Pâté pork fat; fat; gras; kg. (3+ lb.) pork (2* lb.) 12 foies trufres add 12 lb.) truffies foies gras; kg. Make chopped. Make all chopped. mushrooms, ail parsley; spring onions;and spring onions; and mushrooms, layer of of sliced sliced pork fat with aa layer fat covered covered with chopped pork of chopped the pdti of spices and and fines fine spices and fine salt and fine salt with fine seasoned with truffies, seasoned top of ofthat aa on top fat, and and on layer of ofpork another layer next, another herbes; next, herbes; pork faL, mushand mushabove, aod g'rat seasoned as indic.ated indicated above, seasoned as layer of of foie foie gras layer building up Continue building parsley, and onions. Continue spring onions. and spring rooms, parsley, rooms, are used. ingredients are the ingredients all the until all pdt6 in same order order unlil in the the same the pâté the leave to to pork fat. and leave Cook and fat. Cook of pork slices of with slices the whole whole with Cover the Coyer 1767.) portatif de fu culsÎne, Paris, 1767.) (Dictionnaire portatif cuisine, Paris, cool.' (Dictionnaire cool.' pArs DE gras. PÂTÉ GRAS TRUFFÉ rnurrr on FOIE FoIE GRAS foie gras. of foie Tmfred p0t6 of Truffied pork and (2| lb.) and foie gras, 1I kg. lb.) pork kg. (2~ frrm foies Ingredients. 2 firm foie foies gras, Ingredients. (2+ lb.) pastry (14 oz.) lb.) pastry kg. (2± trufres, 1I kg. oz.) Iruffles, gras forcemeal, 400 g. (14 forcemeat, 400 gras pepper, spices. spices, salt, pepper, leaf, thyme, thyme, salt, pork fat, fat, bay leaf, dough, park dough, Madeira. brandy, Madeira. brandy, peeled and gras with and truffies, peeled with trumes, the foie Stud the Method. Slud foie gras Method. salt with Spiced Spiced salt left whole. whole. Season Season with qnartered or, small, left or, ifif small, in steep in Leave to to steep (see SALT) with brandy. brandy. Leave and sprinkle with SALT) and hours. for 22 hours. and Madeira for brandy and brandy with the (a hinged mould) round or or oval oval mou hinged round pdti mould mould (a Linea Line a pâté Id) wi th the made be made This must must be (made with lard). This or lard). butter or pastry dough with butter dough (made for aa long long time. time. left to to stand stand for and left in advance and of the the with part of of the sides of the pastry with and sides bottom and Line the the botlom Line Cover gras, pressed close close together. Coyer the foie Put inin the stuffing. Put foie gras, stuffing. slice of of of this this lay aa slice top of stuffing. On On top layer of of sluffing. domed layer with aa domed with Cover of thyme. thyme' Caver small sprig of leaf, and and aa small pork fat, half aa bay bay leaf, fat, half Decorate dough and and seal the edges. Decora pdti with layer of of dough with aa layer the pâté te pastrywith pastrypastry motifs motifs shaped with decorative pastry top with with decorative the top the

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HoWandaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Hollandnise (l teaspoon) gelatine teaspoon) gelatine When just warm, add to it 2 leaves Cl When rubbed the liver liver rubbed rest of of the and the the rest water, and warm water, soaked in warm soaked much. too much. stirring too BlenC without without stirril1g fine sieve. sieve. Blend through aa fine through jelly. Decorale of the the walls of Decorate the the walJs clear jelly. with clear mould with Coat aa mould Coat liver composition composition FiU with with the the liver of truffies. truffes. FiJI with slivers slivers of mould with mould and liver and of the the slieed sliced liver layers of with layers them with layers, alternating them in layers, in jelly. Leave on Leave to to set set on layer of of jelly. with aa layer of tfumes. truffies. Cover wilh slivers of slivers refrigerator. or in in the the refrigerator. ice or ice plain. Garnish Garnish or plain. crotton, or crustless croûton, on aa buttered Serve on butterod crustless Serve with jelly croûtons. crofitons. with of Slices of DE FOIE FoIE GRAS GRAS -- Sliees gras medllUiollS. ufo,l'trroNs DE merlallions. MÉDAILLONS Foie gras be can be They can medallions. They gras are called medallions. are sometimes sometimes called fOÎe foic gras gras). (see Escalopes offoie Escalopes of hot or or cold cold (sec served hot served foie gras). cooked (cold). MOUSSE Rub cooked DE FOn: FoIB GRAS GRASgras mousse Moussn DE mousse (cold). Foie gras Foie - Rub with 2{ dl. dl. bowl with gras through fine sieve. sieve. Put Put inin aa bowl through aa fine foie gras jelly and dl. (~(f; pint, and 44 dl. ginerous cup) melted jelly cup) melted pint, generous lscant tf piat, (see SAUCE) to every every litre velouti (sec SAUCE) to Chickm velouté scant 22 cups) ctps) Chicken seant gently pur6e. Work (l| pints, generous quart) quart) purée. mixture gently pints, generous Work trus this mixture (H (l pint, partly whisked pint, seant whisked cups) partly scant 22 cups) Add 44 dl. dl. G on ice. ice. SeasolJ. Season. Add on fresh cream. cream. fresh jelly and decorated lined with and decorated mould lined with jelly mixture inin aa mould Put the the mixture Put

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FOIE GRAS FOIE GRAS (and other pottdfoie grar other potted It It is advisable advisable to prepare prepare pottedJoie gras (and potted gras) at 24 hours preparations preparations containing containing foie Joie gras) at least least 24 hours before before using. using. potted portions, potted To make it it easier to to serve in in individual individual portions, rectangular in rectangular kitchens in in restaurant is made made in restaurant kitchens Joie gras is foie gras dishes. earthenware, porcelain, porcelain, or metal dishes. perigourdine. fagon périgourdine. gras with la façon trufres à la with truffles Potted Potted foie foie gras

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pfnlcounpINE r,lqou PÉRIGOURDINE A LA FAÇON TRUFFf À Cn,C,S TRUFFÉ TERRINE DE TERRINE DE FOIE FOIE GRAS

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gras ovemight Drain in cold cold water. water. Drain overnight in Soak aa large, large, firm Joie foie gras cloth. and dry in a clotho gras, and and lobes of of the the Joie in the lobes Make several incisions in foie gras, spices. and spices. with salt salt and Season with truffie. Season put into each aa piece of trufHe. pork fat. fat. thin slices of fresh pork Line a terrine completely with thin with aa press weil Cover with down. Cover gras into well down. into itit and and press the Joie Put the Put foie gras pork, chopped and together and chopped together fat pork, lean and and fat layer of of lean thin layer thin on top top of of and on few tablespoons tablespoons brandy, and seasoned. Pour on aa few seasoned. goose fat. fat. melted goose pour aa little luke-warm luke-warm melted the whole mixture pour flour-and-water edges with ftour-and-water the terrine, and seal the edges Cover the cook in in aa pan half-full hot water water and and cook half-full of of hot in aa pan Place in paste. Place grcs under light under aa light hour. Leave Leave the the Joie hot oven for about about 1I hour. oven for hot foie gras goose of goose few tablespoons tablespoons of on aa few cold. Pour on until quite cold. weight until lard. Cover melted lard. Cover little melted set, add add aa little is quite set, fat, and when this is gummed paper. paper. Keep Keep in in aa of gummed with aa strip strip of terrine. Seal Seal with the terrine. the dry place. cool, dry goose fat. DE FOIE FolE gras in fat. CONSERVE coxsrnvr DE in goose potted foie foie gras Preserved potted gras with with the Joie seasOn the EN TERRINE TERRINE -- Season AU NATUREL NATUREL EN GRAS AU GRAS foie gras poach hours. Dry Dry and and poach for aa few few hours. in brandy brandy for spiced salt. salt. Steep Steep in spiced just large put in large in aa terrine terrine just goose fat. and put fat. Drain, Drain, and in clarified clarified goose in quite goose fat. Leave until until quite fat. Leave with goose hold it. it. Cover Cover with to hold enough to enough leave to to lard and and leave layer of of melted melted lard thin layer over itit aa thin cold. Pour Pour over cold. with aa strip of strip of the edges edges with and seal seal the cool. Cover Cover the the terrine, terrine, and cool. paper. gummed paper. gummed place, joie dry, cool cool place, in aa dry, kept in this way way and and kept in this Prepared in Prepared foie gras will long time. time. keep for for aa very very long wrll keep gras gras -- See foie gras See QUENELLE. of foie Quenelles QUENELLE. Quenelles of layer of of gras rissoles. DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs -- Cut Cut aa layer RIssoLEs DE rissoles. RISSOLES Foie gras Foie (see DOUGH) shapes with with aa pastry dough into small small shapes DOUGH) into Flaky pastry dough (see Flaky put 1I tableone put tablepastry-cutter. In middle of of each each one In the the middle fluted pastry-cutter. ftuted grar with added, truffies added, with diced diced trufHes of joie spoon salpicon salpicon of spoon fob gras little brandy. brandy. with aa little and ftavoured flavoured with seasoned and seasoned sealing the the edges. edges. pastry into carefully sealing into scrolls, scrolls, carefully Roll the the pastry RoU parsley. Serve sauce with Périgueux Pdrigueux sauce Serve with fried parsley. Gamish Garnish with with fried (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). jelly. COQUILLES DB FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs ÀA LA LA gras sbell~ coqutI,r,Es DE ir jelly. Foie Foie gras shelb in gras, potted Joie shells potted serving in in shells method of of serving GELÉE cnI-ie -- AA method foie gras, with aa shellshellThe shells shells are are cut cut out out with fat. The cooked cooked in in its its own own fat. To instead. To be used used instead. can be tablespoon can shaped scoop or or aa tablespoon shaped scoop gran from spoon dip the the scoop scoopor or spoon prevent the from sticking, sticking, dip prevent the Joie foie gras jelly. chopped jelly. Decorate with with chopped cutting. Decorate in hot water water before before cutting. in hot Rub through through aa FoIE GRAS cRAs- - Rub gns soufflé. DE FOIE Foie sourprf DE Foie gras soufl6. SOUFFLÉ gras raw joie trimmed raw oz.) carefully carefully trimmed (11 oz.) fine fine sieve sieve 300 300 g.g.(ll foie gras whites. Put Put pounded in mortar with with 33egg egg whites. in aamortar which which has has been been pounded about ice, incorporating incorporating about work on onice, the bowl and andwork the mixture mixture in in aa bowl little. Add Add 33 (+ pint, little by by little. pint, lil| cups) fresh cream cream little 33 dl. thick fresh dl. (t cups) thick dish souffi6 dish Fill aa buttered buttered soufflé or whites. Fil! whisked egg egg whites. or 44 stifHy stifry whisked for 30 30to to pan ofwater, and cook cook for with of water, and stand in inaapan with the the mixture, mixture, stand 35 35 minutes. minutes. (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see Serve Madeira sauce sauce,Madeira with Périgueux Pirigueux sauce, Serve with (see ESSENCE). or ESSENCE). or with with TruJfleessence Trffie essence (see pur6eof ofcooked cooked withpurée Foie grassouJflé bemade madewith canalso also be souffii can Foic gras Joie gras. foie gras. gras,steep steepinin Foie firm Joie grasSouvarov Season aafirm Souvarov-- Season Foie gras foie gras, ovenanovenbrandy, hot butter. Put itit ininan very hot butter. Put browninin very and brown brandy, and little quarteredtrufHes. Pouron onaa!ittle proof truffies. Pour proof dish large quartered with large dish with essence Demi-glace (se SAUCE) withTruJfle Trufie essence mixedwith SAUCE) mixed sauce(see Demi-glace sauce stripofof ver the (see with aastrip (see ESSENCE). seal with andseal dish and thedish Cover ESSENCE).Co paste. minutesaccordaccordfor40 40to to50 50minutes ovenfor paste. Cook moderateoven Cook ininaamoderate dish. ing gras.Serve cooking dish. thecooking Serveininthe sizeof ofthe thefoie ing toto the thesize foie gras.

Truffled pdt6 pâté de foie gras (Presse Moderne) Truffied

Ieaves, crescents, etc.) or strips of plaited cutters (lozenges, leaves, pieces of of dough shaped or 4 round pieces In the middle middle put 33 or dough. In middle of in the the middle a fluted ftuted pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Make aa hole hole in with a these for the escape escape of of steam during during baking. Brush with egg. Bake in a fairly hot oven. luke-warm pour into it either half-melted Cool. When it is luke-warm used at at is to be used some time, or if it is lard, if it is to be kept for sorne once, Madeira-flavoured Madeira-ftavoured jelly. 12 hours before de foie Joie gras must be Pâté de at least least 12 made at be made Pdti using. The mould can be lined with aa stuffing made entirely using. of Joie gras Joie gras stuffing. gras instead andpie instead of with pork and of foie pArls (oH recipe). PErIrs PÂTÉs SmaU trufHed pâtés recipe). PETITS pfltes of foie foie gras (old Small trufred gras and with DE 'Take Joies stud with afr stud Atrx TRUFFES TRUFFES --'Take DE FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAs AUX foies gras Joie gras stuffing especially truffles. Make aafoie for the the purpose. especially for truffies. Prepare pdti moulds. Put stuffing at at the Put the stuffing Prepare little individual pâté bottom, aa piece of side. gres on each side. at each truffie at on top and aa truffle of Joie foie gras put them Cover with them and put egg, and with egg, Finish, brush with stuffing. Finish, with stuffing. pour aa in them, pour uncover them, are ready, ready, uncover they are oven. When When they in the the oven. gascon, (Iz Cuisinier !ittle Cuisinier gascon, and serve.' serye.' (Le them and little essence into them essence into Amsterdam, 1747 .) Amsterdam, 1747.) AUx Potted foie GRAS AUX DE FOIE FoIE GRAS gras with trufres TERRINE TERRINE DE foie gras with truffles. (the TRUFFES halves (the Trim the the halves tn half. half. Trim large Joie TRUFFEs -- Cut aa large foie gras in trimmings them and stud stud them make the the forcemeat), forcemeat), and to make used to trimmings are are used th Spiced with large gras wi with Spiced pieces of Season the the joie truffie. Season large pieces of truffle. foie gras salt or 22 for 1I or (see SALT). and steep steep for over itit and brandy over Pour brandy salt (see SALT). Pour hours in seasoning. in this seasoning. Line pork fat. fat. Put in Put in of pork with thin thin slices slices of dish with Line an an ovenware ovenware dish (13 oz.) itit aa fairly g. (13 oz.) with 375 375 g. made with forcemeat made layer of of aa forcemeat fairly thin thin layer lean the pork fat, of the fat, the (l lb.) the trimmings trimmings of fresh pork g. (1 pork, 450 lb.) fresh 450 g. lean pork, joie (5 oz.) or chopped g. (5 chopped oz.) diced diced or gras -- about 150 g. oz.), 150 about 200 2N g. Q oz.), e. (7 foie gras trufHes cup) scant if cup) dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant with t* dl. flavoured with truffies ftavoured Madeira spiced teaspoons spiced seasoned with with 44 teaspoons and seasoned or brandy Madeira or brandy and Joie gras salt. forcemeat. Cover Cover gras on on top top of of this this forcemeat. half of of the the/oie salt. Put Put half with the other other forcemeat. Put Put the trufled forcemeat. of the the truffled layer of with another another layer half of remainder of gras on with the the remainder cover with on top top and and cover half of of the the Joie foie gras the all the the ingredients. ingredients. to ftatten flatten ail down weil well to the forcemeat. forcemeat. Press Press down If aa Cover put ha half pork fat. of this this put On top top of fat. On of pork slice of with aa thin thin slice Cover with bay and seal seal the dish dish and of thyme. thyme. Cover Cover the sprig of leaf and and aa small small sprig bay leaf te. Cook with standing in in aa paste. oven, standing in the the oven, Cook in with ftour-and-water flour-and-water pas pan hour, accordaccordto 1I hour, for 45 45 minutes minutes to pan half-fuU hot water, water, for half-full of of hot ing dish. the size size of of the the dish. ing to to the Leave day. following day. until the the following light weight weight until Leave to to cool cool under under aa light Next (this can the dish dish done ifif the more easily easily done can be be more out (this Next day, day, tum turn itit out isis first Remove the the hot water). water). Remove in hot seconds in few seconds for aa few first stood stood for slices gras gras. Dry theJoie potted joie Dry the the potted of fat fat covering covering the slices of foie gras foie gras. with the forcemeat forcemeat to make make the pressing aa little little so so as as to cloth, pressing with aa cloth, quite the dish dish of the the bottom bottom of it, line line the quite firm. replacing it, firm. Before Before replacing with (which was goose fat was exuded exuded fat(which lard mixed mixed with with goose layer of of lard with aa layer in over cold, over fat, almost almost cold, mixture of of fat, similar mixture in cooking). cooking). Pour Pour aa similar theJoie l0 least10 for atatleast gras. Leave refrigerator for the refrigerator in the to chili chill in Leave to the foie gras. hours. dish. cooking dish. in the the cooking hours. Serve Serve as as itit isis in 383 383

FOLLE.BLANCHE FOLLE-BLANCHE gras tart Foie gras tart :i l'ancienne. I'ancienne. TOUR TouRTts DE FOIE ForE GRAS cnls ÀA Foie lE DE Roll out out aa layer paste layer of (see of Fine Fine lining lining pas - Roll le (see DOUGH) and and eut cut itit inin aa round round shape. shape.Coyer Cover the the middle middle DOUGH) with aa layer layer of (see FORCEMEA of Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat FORCEMEAT) forcemeat (see with T) gras purée mixd with (s*PURED with aa little little Foie Foie gras purie (see and chopped chopped mixed PURÉE) and trufres, leaving leaving aa border (l* inches). border of of 33 to to 4acm. crn. (11 inches). trumes, Top with with thick thick slices slices of of raw raw truffle. trufre. Coyer Cover with with aa thin thin Top layer of of the the stuffing, stuffing, and and finally, finally, with with aa !id lid of of rolled-out rolled-out layer pastry. SeaJ Seal the the edges. edges. Makc Make aa ho pastry and hole in the the pastry and decorate decorate pastry. le in pastry motifs, with pastry motifs, or or score score with with shallow shallow criss-cross criss-cross lines. lines. with Brush with with egg, egg, and and bake bake in in the the oyen oven for for 45 45 to to 50 minutes. 50 minutes. Brush When the the tart pour in tart isis ready, ready, pour in through through the hole the ho in the the When le in middle, aa few few tablespoons tablespoons concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce middJe, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) f1avoured flavoured with (soe ESSENCE). withTrffie essence (see ESSENCE). (sec TruJ/fe essence This tart tart can can also also be made with pastry (see (se DOUGH). with Flaky Flaky pastry be made DOUGH). This (colo. TOURTE gras tart Foie gras tart with with truffles trufles (cold). rouRTE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAs AUX Ar.rx Foie TRUFFES -- Using Fine lining paste (see (s@ DOUGH) Using Fine lining paste DOUGH) make make the the TRUFFES gros tarI tart as as indicated indicatod for for Foie Foie gras tart àit l'ancienne. I'ancienne. When When ilit isis tart pour in (through the cold, pour into the hole hole in in the the centre) centre) aa few few cold, to itit (through jelly. tablespoons Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured jelly. tablespoons gras in goose fat. Tinnd foie foie gras in goose fat. CONSERVE coNssnvE DE DE FOIE ForE GRAS GRAS AU AU Tin.ned NATUREL -- Put gras, seasoned Put very very firmfoies fitmfoies gras, seasonod and and steeped steeped for for NATIJREL hours in in brandy, brandy, into into oval oval tins, tins, adding goose fat. adding aa little little goose fat. 22 hours Seal. Stand Stand them them in in water water and and boil boil steadily steadily for for H hours for l| hours for Seal. (2 lb.), tins weighing weighing 1I kg. kg. (2 lb.), and and 1I hour hour for for tins tins weighing weighing tins (l lb.). 500 g. e. (J 500 lb.). Drain, leave leave to to cool, cool, dry dry thoroughly, thoroughly, and and keep in aa cool, cool, Drain, keep in dry place. dry place. gras in (hot). FOIE Trufled foie foie gras in Madeira Madeira (hot). rom GRAS cn.ls TRUFFÉ rnurrn AU lu Truffled gras with uloinn Stud aa foie gras with trumes truffies and leave to to steep and leave steep in in MADÈRE -- Stud gras in brandy. Wrap Ihe the foie gras piece of pork caul in aa piece of pork or th thin caul or brandy. Wrap in pork fat, slices of of pork fat, and and put it in small braising dish lined lined slices put it in aa small braising dish with skin and and sliced sliced on onions and carrots, carrots, which which with fresh fresh pork pork skin ions and have in butter. butter. Coyer, Cover, and simmer for for 77 to have been been tossed tossed in and simmer to 88 minutes. (scant f~ pint, with 2l dl. (seant cup) minutes. Moisten Moisten with 2~ dl. pint, generous generous cup) Madeira. several minutes. (| pint, dl. G Madeira. Simmer Simmer for for several minutes. Add Add 3 3 dl. pint, lfH cups) cups) concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the foie gras. gras. Strain, Strain, skim skim all ail fat fat off off the over thefoie the stoclg stock, and and pour pour over the foie gras. gras. Trufled Truffled foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (colo. (told). ForE FOIE cRAs GRAS rnurrs TRUfFÉ lu At! rrrrotnr MADÈRE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Trffied TruJ/fed foie foie gras gras in in Madeira Madeira (hot). (hot). When When cooked, cooked, drain, drain, unwrap unwrap the the liver, liver, and and put put itil in in aa terrine terrine just just large large enough enough to to hold hold it. il. Strain Strain the the cooking cooking stock stock and and pour over thefoie pour it it over the foie gras.Leave gras. Leave to to cool cool for for 12 12 hours. hours. Skim Skim off off the the layer layer of of fat fat which which will will have have formed, formed, and and serve serve in in the the terrine. terrine. gras When Truffied in Madeira When TruJ/fed foie foie gras ln Madeira is is to to be be served served cold, cold, the the veal veal stock stock must must be be of of aa kind kind that that will wiU readily readily set set into into aa jelly. jelly. Trufred Truffled foie foie gras gras in in port port (cold). (cold). ForE FOIE GRAs GRAS rnurrn TRUfFÉ lu AU poRTo foie gras PORTO -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Truffied TruJ/fedfoie gras in in Madeira Madeira (cold), (cohi), jelly using using jeJly flavoured flavoured with with port. port. Even Even when when ruby ruby port port is is used, used, the the jelly jelly should should be be amber-coloured. amber-coloured.

generally covered jelly covered with with foil foil and and masked masked with IlIt isis generally with aa jelly or savoury savoury butter, butter, depending depending upon upon the the dish. dish. or

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE

FONDS -- French (See STOCKS, French term term for for stock. stock. (See STOCKS, FU FONDS MET.) FUMET.)

FONDS DE DE PÂTISSERIE PATISSERIBTerm for for various various sweet pastry sweet pastry FONDS - Tcrm bases used pAfisserie. used in in French French pâtisserie. bases

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FONDLIE - This This narne name applies applies to to aa variety variety of FONDUE of different different dishes. Il can can be be a cheese cheese sauce, sauce, originally originally from from dishes. Switzerland, the the recipe recipe for for which which follows follows under under Cheese Cheese Switzerland, fondue fon&re 1.L It isis also also used used for for aa dish dish of of scrambled scrambled eggs eggs with with cheese, cheese, It an original original recipe recipe of of which which can can be found in in Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's be found an go'frt. (Sec (Se Cheese Physiologie du fu goût. Cheese fondue II.) Physiologie fondue Il.) preparations are Certain vegetable vegetable preparations called fondue. are also also caUed Certain fondue. The vegetables vegetables are are cooked cooked for for aa very very long long lime time in in butter, The butter, lard, or or oil oil until until they pulp, i.e. they are are reduced reduced to to pulp, i.e. become lard, Different vegetable vegetable fondues can be be used used as conas confondues. fondues. Different fondues can great many stituent elements elements in in aa great many dishes. dishes. stituent Burgundy fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDTJE BOuRGUIGNONNE BouRcuIcNoNNE - This This conconBurgundy temporary dish dish has has nothing nothing 10 to do do with with Burgundy; Burgundy; itit isis aa temporary Swiss creation. creation. A A mixture of of butter and placed in and oil oil isis placed in aa Swiss dish which which is is set set over over ilS its own own individual heater heater on on fondue dish the table. Cubes of steak steak are served separately. are served separately. With the the aid aid the table. person plunges plunges aa steak ofaa fondue fork., fork, each each person steak cube into the of and oil mixture, cooking it it to to his tas taste, smoking butter and te, then th en it into one of aa variety of sauces before eating il. dips it it. fondue. FoNDUE DE CAROTTES cARorrEs - Gently Gently cook cook very Carrot fondue. FONDUE DE finely sljced sliced or shredded shredded carroIS carrots in in butter, in in a covered pan. pinch of sugar. with salt salt and a pinch Season with Cook the carrots untiJ until they are reduced reduced to Cook the carrots they are to aa pulp. pulp. To avoid them few drops drops of add aa few of avoid them being being fried fried in in the the butter butter add water or bouillon from time to to time. fondue. FoNDUE cELERT -- Cook Cook sliced or diced diced Celery fondue. FONDUE DE DE CÉLERI celery or celeriac celeriac gently in butter, adding a few drops water watcr or bouillon. Season. Cook until the moisture moisture has completely completely evaporated. Cheese Cheese fondue fondue I. roNorie FONDUE DE FRoMAGE FROMAGE * - This dish dish originated in the French-speaking French-speaking part part of of Switzerland. It lt consists consists of of gratod grated cheese cheese melted melted in white white wine, seasoned seasoned with pepper, pepper, and flavoured flavoured with with a little little kirsch. kirsch. The contains The Valais Valais fondue fondue con tains no no butter, no no eggs, no no flour or starch of of any kind, and no chemical products products in its ilS original form. foml. It Il is is prepared prepared in in a small sma]] casserole and served on on aa hot plate plate or trivet. trivet. Each Each person person round round the table table dips dips a piece pieœ of bread bread spiked on the the end of of his his fork fork into into the the dish. dish. The Freiburg) fondue The Fribourg Fribourg ((Freiburg) fondue is is prepared prepared with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese, cheese, which which is is aa soft cheese cheese made made in in the the Savoy Savoy from from cows' milk. milk. A A century century ago, ago, M. M. Victor Victor Tissot Tissot gave gave Edmond Edmond Richardin Richardin the the genuine genuine recipe recipe for for thrs Ihisfondue with Vacherin. Vacherin. fondue with 'Take 'Take I1 kgpi kg (2i lb.) lb.) fresh fresh white whil<: Vacherin Vacherin cheese; cheese; cut eut itit into into small small cubes cubes and and place place these these in in an an earthenware earthenware or or enamelled enamelled iron iron pot. pot. Heat Heat over over aa low low flame, flame, stirring stirring frequently frequently with with aa fork fork made made of of new new wood. wood. Try Try not not to to be be distracted distracted by by the the delicious delicious aroma aroma of of the the melting me1ting cheese. cheese. When When the the cheese cheesc begins begins to to simmer simmer and and isis ropy ropy and and cream-like cream-like in in consistency, consistency, itit isis ready ready to to eat. eal. Place Place itit in in the the centre centre of of the the table. table. 'Connoisseurs 'Connoisseurs have have small small cubes cubes of of fresh fresh bread brcad ready ready on on their their plate plate in in advance. advance. These These are are speared speared with wilh aa fork, fork, then Ihcn plunged plunged and and turnod turned in in the the fondue. fondue. Once Once aa forkful forkful is is well weil coated coated with with the the smoking smoking cream, cream, itit is is removed removed and and eaten, eaten, washed washed down down with with white white wine. wine. 'In 'ln this this way way the the fondue fondue isis kept kept nicely nicely warm warm and and there there isis none none ofthe of the bother bother oftransferring of transferring itit from from one one receptacle receptacle to to another. another. '1'1 kg. kg. (2| (2i lb.) lb.) Vacherin Vacherin cheese cheese isis sufficient sufficient to to make make ample ample

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FOLLE-BLANCIiEFOLLE-BLANCHE - Name Name of ofaa vine vine bearing bearing white white grapes, grapes,

which which grows grows in in the the Charentes Charentes region. region. The The wine wine made made from from these these grapes grapes is is of of rather rather poor poor quality, quality, but but itit is is used used in in the the distillation distillation of ofbrandy. brandy. FONDANT FONDAl'I'T -- See See ICING. ICING.

FONDANTS FONDANTS (Croquettes) (Croquettes) - See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, ,F/or Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.

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FOhID-DF-PLAT FOND-DE-PLAT-- French French term Lerm for for an an oval oval or or round round piece piece of ofwood wood which which isis placed placed on on the the bottom bottom of ofaa plate plate to to form fODn aa raised raised base base for for cold cold dishes. dishes. 384 384

FONDUE you. 'Take a piece of of good Gruyère Gruydre weighing a third and butter weighing aa sixth of the weight of the eggs. 'Break the eggs and beat them weil well in a casserole. Add the butter and the grated cheese. 'Put the casserole on aa hot stove stove and and stir with aa wooden spoon until mixture has has suitably suitably thickened spoon until the the mixture thickened and and is any salt, salt, depending on smooth. Add aa very little or hardly any age of the cheese. Add aa good portion of pepper, which the age is one of the the distinguishing distinguishing characteristics of this this ancient is one dish. Serve on aa lightly heated dish.' Chervil tuber fondue. FoNDUE fuber fondue. DE CERFEUIL Chervil FONDUE DE cERFEUTL TUBÉREUX rusfnBux -same as Celery fondue. Prepared in the sa me way as fondue. FoNDUE D'ENDIVES fondue. FONDUE D'ENDIVES -- Cook Cook finely finely minced Chicory fondue. chicory gently in butter in aa covered pan. Season. chicory Season. Tlis fon&te as aa garnish for egg egg and fish dishes fondue is is served as This well as cuts cuts of meat and poultry, and and vegetable vegetable dishes. as weil Fennel tuber tuber fondue. fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE FENoUIL TUBÉREUX Fennel DE FENO~ rus6neux -Prepared and used in the same way as fondue. and used as Celery fondue. poIREAUx - Shred or cut into fine FoNDUE DE POIREAUX Leek fondue. FONDUE and cook gently in butter until slices the white part of leeks and Season. very soft. Season. Used in in sauces, sauces, stuffings, stuffings, and and stews, or as as aa garnish for Used fistr, meat, poultry, and vegetables. eggs, fish, FoNDUE AUX AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNsMushroom fondue. FONDUE - Mince the mushrooms, bind with cream, and and brown in in the oven. Oniqr fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE D'oIGNoNs Cook finely chopped Onion D'OIGNONS -- Cook gently in pan without covered pan in butter in aa covered without allowing onions gently prevent the them to to col colour. To prevent the on them our. To ions becoming becoming fried, onions moisten them from from time to time with water or stock. Season. Season. fondue. FoNDUE D'oSEILLE -- Prepared in in the same Sorrel fondue. FONDUE D'OSEILLE Sorrel chiffonnade chffinnade (see CHIFFONNADE). CHIFFONNADE). way as SO/Tel

Cheese fondue

nourishing dish.' fondue for four persons. It is aa very nourishing fondue Neuchdtel fondue The Neuchâtel fondue has has Gruyère Gruydre cheese as a basis. For as a and fresh cheese are mixed. this dish stale and fondue II tr (Brillat-Savarin). FoNDLTE AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAGE Cheese Cheese fondue @rittat-Savarin). FONDUE gives to BRILLAT-SAvARIN -- This This is name BRILLAT-SAVARIN me the is the the na the author gives to a dish of scrambled eggs with cheese in in his his book Physiologie Physiologie dish translation of the original recipe. du go,At. goût. The following is aa translationof 'Recipe of fondue M. TroUet's Trollet's papers. as found found in in M. fondue as papers. He 'Recipe was bailiff bailiff of Mondon in the Canton of Berne. you want which you use. This 'Weigh the the number of eggs which to use. want to number depends on how many people are going to eat with

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Equipment for Swiss fondue (Nicolas) Equipment

385

FONTAINEBLEAU FO NT AINE BLEA U used in in thick thick and and thin garnish for thin soups, soups, and as aa garnish and as for eggs, ftIt isis used eggs, small cuts poultry. cuts of of meat, meat, and and poullry. small pepper fondue. Sweet pepper fondue. FONDUE FoNDrrE DE DE PIMENTS rMENTS DOUX Doux -- Cook Sweet Cook finely chopped peppers gently gently in chopped sweet sweet peppers in butter butter or or oil oil until until soft. Season. soft. in hot hot and and cold cold sauces, Use in sauces, in in dit'l'erent different kinds kinds of of stuffings, stuffings, Use with soft soft eggs, eggs, in in omelettes, omelettes, with with bot hot or or cold cold fish, fish, with wîth with shellfish, meat, meat, poultry, and and vegelables. vegetables. shellfish, Tomato fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE DE TOMA ToMATES Cook 1I chopped chopped Tomato TES .- Cook onion in in butter butter or or in in aa butter butter and and oil oil mixture. mixture. When onlon When the the onions begin peeled, seeded, begin to to colour, colour, add add 66 peeled, seeded, and and chopped chopped onions tomatoes. Season pepper. Add Season with with salt salt and grated clove and pepper. Add 1I grated clove lomatoes. garlic. Cook of garlic. Cook gently \lnlil until the the liquid liquid of of the the tomatoes tomatoes has of almost disappeared. Add Add t+ tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. almost Tomato fondue isis used for many many dishes, used for dishes, mainly mainly for for those Tomato provengale, àd la la provençale, portugaise, or la portugaise, or àd la la madrilène. madrildne.It usod as àd la It isis used as garnish for for eggs, eggs, and and fOf for vegetables such such as as mushrooms, aa garnish small vegetable marrows, aubergines, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. smaU etc. oil, and and chilled, chilled, tomato fondue Îsis onen often used When made with oil, preparation of in the the preparation of cold cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. in

panada should The The panada should not not be be added added to to the the forecemeat forecemeat or or stuffing stuffing until until itit isis completely completely cold. cold. To To speed speed up up the the cooJing cooling process, spread process, spread ouI out the the forcemeal forcemeat on on aa buttered buttered dish. dish. Coyer Cover prevent aa crus! with with buttered buttered paper ta to prevenl crust forming forming through preparation of various panadas exposure exposure to to the the air. For For the the preparation ofvarious see see PANADA. PANADA.

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or MADE WITH OT STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE BEEF, WITH BEEF, VEAL, VEAL, PORK, AND POULTRY. FARcES DE DE PORK, GAME, GAME, AND POULTRY. FARCES CHAIR CHAIR DE DE VEAU, VEAU, DE DE PORC, PORC, DE DE GlBlER, GIBIER, DE DE VOLAILLE VOLAILLE -_ pouR LES Beet' Beef forcemeat forcemeat for for agnolotti. agnolotti. FARCE FARCE DE DE BOEUF BoEUF POUR LEs g. (18 (18 oz.) AGNOLOTIl AGNoLorrI -- This This forcemeat forcemeat is is made made of of 500 500 g. oz.) beef beef braised in red red wine. wine. braised in When ove the remove When completely completely cooked, cooked, rem the beef, beef, chop, chop, and and (9 oz.) g. (9 add add 10 to ilit 250 250 g. oz.) cabbage, cabbage, chopped and and braised, braised, and and 50 (2 oz., g.Q grated Parmesan cheese. Season 50 g. oz., tI cup) cup) grated with salt, salt, Season wîth pepper, and and spices. sauce in Strain the the sauce in which which the beef was was braised, braised, and and use use ilit for for serving agnolotti. serving with agnololtÎ. Chicken forceneat. FARCE FARCE DE DE VOLAILLEChicken (or other poultry) forcemeat. VoLAILLE (see below) like Veal Veal and pork forcemeat Prepare like below) using using the forcemeat (see (or other following ingredienls: 250 g. ingredients: 250 chicken (or e. (9 Q oz.) chicken poultry meat, pigeon, duck, guinea-fowl), meat, such such as as turkey, turkey, pigeon, (4 oz") (4 oz.) pork. g. (4 g. (4 pork, 450 g. (lIb.) (l lb.) fresh oz.) lean veal, 100 100 g. 100 g. 450 g. bacon, bacon,22 eggs, l+ dl. dl. (+ pint, tJ cup) cup) brandy and and 55 teaspoons Spiced salr (see SALT). prepared using This forcemeat can can also also be be prepared only the using only the meat of fowl fowl and and fresh fresh bacon. Forccmcat pfltes and galantines, pâtés potted preparations. preparations. Forcemeat for for galantines, and poUet:!

FONTAINEBLEAU-- Town Town weil well known in thegastronomic the gastronomic FONTAINEBLEAU because of ilS grapes, whÎch its famous grapes, which are are found found in world because in and and (see GRAPES), near Thomery Thomery (see GRAPES), and and also also because because of its near its suc.succream cheese, cheese, which which isis eaten eaten as as a dessert. culent cream See CHEESE. FONTINA -- See

PROCESSOR -- A powerful powerful time-saving appliance FOOD PROCE.."SOR FOOD operated by e1eclricity electricity and equipped with a variety of cutting operated gadgets for pur6eing, emulsifying, chopping, slicing, shredding, and and whipping. Originated in France under ding, under the trade name of of Cuisinart, simîlar processors are similar food food processors name are now manufactured in England, Germany, and Ihe the United States. pur6e. Fruit of aimosi FOOL -- Fruit purée. almost any variety is is cooked FOOL with very little and passed through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. The licHe water warer and passed through with pulp is and kept cool -- on ice if possible. Whipped is sugared and Whipped to l, 1, mixed cream is added to the pulp in the proportion of 2 [0 and served served in sherbet glasses. gently and

pouR GALANl1NES, pAr6s, TERR1NES FARCE FARCE 1'00JR. GALANTINES, PÂTÉs, TERRINES -

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Inl1r1-"fI./pnl'.L 250 g. veal, 500 (9 oz.) lean (18 oz.) fresh g. (9 Ingredients.250 lean veal, 500 g. (18 fresh tab1espoons Spiced (see SALT), pork fat, 2 eggs, 22 tablespoons Spiced salt (see brandy. 1+ dl. (+ pint, J cup) brandy. Me/hod. Dice the veal, veal, pork, and pork fat and pound in în a Method. with the the seasoning and Add the mortar with and brandy. the eggs eggs and brandy. Add mix weIl. well. Rub Ihrough through a fine sieve. Slir Stir until very smooth. FARCE DE GIBlERS - Prepare Prepare like Chicken Game forcemeat. forcemeat. FARcE GIBTERs like Chicken (or other poultry)forcemeat,replacing chicken chickeo by game meat. meal. aoo potted preparations. FARCE Gamc forcemeat for plt6s pâtés and Game pArEs ET DE GIBIER poun POUR PÂTÉS ET TERRTNES TERRINES - Using whatever game is indicated in the the recipe, recipe, proceed proceed as as for for Chicken indicaled in Chickm (or other poultry) poul/TY) forcemeat. forcemeal. To To render render this this stuffing stuffing more more delicate, delicate, the the trimmings of freshfoie iL It ft can aalso Iso be enriched by the fresh foie gras are added to it. à gratin game game stuffing swjjing (see (see below) be!ow) and addition of d addition and Game fumet (see FUMET). A gratin calves' ulves' Iiver liver forcemeat for borders borders and and hot pfftds. pâtés. FARcE FARCE A À cR,lrnq GRAnN DE DE ForE FOlE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR POUR BoRDUREs BORDURES ET pAres PÂTÉS

(Wine) -- French FORCE FORCE (Wine) French term lerm for incompletely incomplelely fermented fermeOled wine to develop aa .sparkle, in small reinforced reinforced casks 10 'sparkle' wine kept in just as Champagne wine develops develops it in bottles. boules. just as

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or STUFFINGS. rlncps FARCES - Forcemeats or stuffings, stuffings, which which are are a a mixture mixture of ingredients ingredienl~ minced minced or chopped chopped and and spiced, spiced, are are among among the the preparations preparations most cooking. They are often from charin cooking. They are often made made from charwidely used used in cuterie, ell/erie, and and are are used used in pdtis, pâtés, potted pattee! preparations, preparations, galantines, and sluft' or garnish eggs, fish, poultry, poultry, and ballottines, ballottines, to stuff game, game, meat, meal, vegetables, etc. Forcemeats making of of forcemeat farcemeat balls, balls, Forcemeats are are also used in the making borders, mousses, moulds, moulds, etc. Forcemeats Forcemeats or or stuffings sluffings can be be made made with or or without meat, meal, though all al! of of them them derive derive from 55 basic forcemeats. forcemeats. These are: l. Pork forcemeat. forcemeal. 2. Yeal Veal and and fat fal forcemeat, forcemeat, known known as as godiveau. godiveau, 3. Fine Fine forcemeat, forcemeat, with with cream. cream. 4. Forcemeat made of special ingredients, with with or or without without made of meat. meal. 5. 5. ità gratin gratin forcemeat. forcemeat. Forcemeats various by the the addition of ofvarious Forcemeats are are given given substance substance by panadas panadas (see below). below). Most forcemeats meal, poultry, poultry. or game, are forcemealS made made of meat, bound bound with wilh eggs. Panada Panada for for forcemeats or sfuffings. stuffings. nANADE PANADE -- Preparation Preparation made bread, usually usually boiled boiJed in in water, water, made with with various variolls flours or bread, milk, forcemeats. milk, or or stock, and and used used to to bind bind stuffings or forcemeats. Panadas 2 parts Panadas are are added added to to stuffings in in the the proportion proportion of of2 parts basic basÎc ingredients ingredients to 10 I1 part part panada.

_ CHAVDSCHAUDS

Ingredienls. 300 g. g. (ll (lI oz.) trimmed calves' livers, 250 g. Ingredients.300 (9 (9 oz.) fat fat belly belly of pork, pork, 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 3 cups) CUPS) mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, 50 e.Q g. (2 oz., I±cup) chopped shallots, 150 g. (5 oz., oz." generous generous *-t cup) cUP) butter, butter, 4 teaspoons leaspoons salt, I1 teaspoon 1",,,~nr'l""In pepper, j~ teaspoon teaspoon ground cloves, cloyes, a a small smaU sprig of thyme, * bay leaf,ll leaf, Ji dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3 cup) white white wine, 3 egg yolks. Method. Method. Brown Brown the the diced diced belly of pork in 50 g. g. (2 oz., în the the butter. Remove the pork from the the pan, pan, and, in i cup) butter. bro'k'T1 very very quickly the the diced calves' calves' liver. liver. Put same butter, brown the diced diced pork pork back back in in the the pan. pan Add Add the the mushroom musbroom peelings peelings the and shallots, sballols, seasoning seasonÎng and spices. Saut6 Sauté the the mixture mixture on aa and of the the very hot hot flame Rame for for 22 minutes. minutes. Take the the calves' calves' liver liver out out of very pan. pan. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices with wilh the the white white wine, wine, boil boil down down and and add add to the the liver. liver. Pound Pound in in a mortar, mortar, adding adding the the rest rest of of the Ihe butter buller to aod the tbe egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix well. weil. Rub Rub through Ihrough aa sieve. Mix Mix with with and is very very smooth. smooth. wooden spoon spoon until uotiJ itit is aa wooden The is added added to lo forcemeats forcemeats for pdtds pâtés and and potted polted The mixture mixlure is products. Il is is also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of of borders borders and and products. It poultry or game game moulds. moulds. Truffie Tmffle peelings peelings may may be be added added to to poultry or

t

386 386

FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS Panada Pana da forcemeat forcemeat with wilfl cream cream (fine). (fine). rencr FARCE (nNr) (FINE) A À r,l LA eANADE PANADE rr ET A À LA cnirraE CRÈME - Ingredienls. Ingredients. 1 kg. kg. (2+ (2± lb.) lb.) veal veal or or

this this forcemeat forcemeat and and pounded pounded with with the the calves' calves' liver. liver. A A little little concentrated concentrated Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UeE) can can also also be be

u

A

À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat for for canap6s canapés and and croiitons. croûtons. re.ncs FARCE A À cRATTN GRATIN pouR POUR cANApEs CANAPÉS ET cno0roNs CROÛTONS - Heat Heat in ill a pan pan 150 150 g. g.

rr

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I

poultry, poultry, boned boned and and trimmed, trimmed, with with all aU gristle gristle and and tendons tendons removed, removed, 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) Bread Bread panadn panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 44 egg It litres litres (2f (21 pints, pints, 3| 3± pints) pints) double double cream, cream, I1 egg whites, whites, l!

added. added.

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teaspoon teaspoon salt, sail, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meat meat or or poultry poultry with with the the seasoning seasoning and and the the egg egg whites, whites, adding adding aa little little at at aa time. time. Add Add the the panada. panada. Pound Pound vigorously vigorously until until the the ingredients ingredients are are thoroughly thoroughly mixed. mixed. Rub througha through a fine fine sieve. steve. Keep Keep on on ice iee for for I1 hour. hour. Add, Add, aa little little at aa time, time, aa third third of of the the cream, cream, stirring stirring with with aa wooden wooden spoon. Add the the rest rest of of the the cream, cream, partly partly whipped. whipped. This This forcemeat forcemeat may may be be prepared prepared in in an an electric electric blender blender and and is used used for for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls. balls. Forcemeat Forcemeat for for pAt6 pâté of of foie foie gras gras or or potted potted foie foie gras. gras. FARCE FARCE poun POUR pAri PÂTÉ ouTERRINE OUTERRINE DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 375 375 g. g. (13 (13 oz.) lean pork, pork, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) gras, 4 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salt (see (sec SALT), SAL Tl, 1 1 dl. dl. fresh foie gras, (6 (6 tablespoons, scant scant11 cup) cup) brandy. brandy. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the meats meats finely finely in in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add the the seasoning and seasoning and the the brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through a a sieve. sieve. pEnIGouRDINE - Make P6rigourdine FARCE PER IGOURDINE Make with with Périgourdine forcemeat. forcemeat. rlnct chopped breadcrumbs breadcmmbs steeped in in clear clear soup soup or or milk, milk, and and chopped or pork chopped ham fresh fresb pork pork or chopped ham or pork fat. fat. Add Add chopped chopped parsley parsley salt, pepper, egg yolks. and garlic garlic and bind with with egg yolks. Season Season with with salt, peppcr, cabbage leaves, spices. Wrap and and spiees. Wrap in in white white cabbage leaves. cabbage, rolled The The stuffed cabbage, rolled into into a a large large ball, baIl, is is wrapped wrapped (U.S. cheesecloth) and braised. cheesecloth) and in muslin (U.s. braised. chicken' stuff pot-roasted is also also used This forcemeat lIsed to to stuff pot-roasted chicken. This forcemeal is are added added to of the The liver liver and blood blood of the chicken chicken are ta it. il. with PoRc -- Make DE PORC fine. FARcE Pork forcemeat, Pork forcemeat, fine. FARCE FINE FINE DE Make with as Pork pork fat same way fat in pork and in the the same lean pork and pork way as Pork forcemeat, lean sieve. (see below) and rub rub the ordinary (sec ordinary below) and the mixture mixture through through aa sieve. forcemeat. purposes as as ordinary ordinary pork same purposes for the same It is is used used for Jt pork forcemeat. A SAUCISSESsluclssrs DITE CHAIR FARcE DITE cHAIR À ordinary. FARCE Pork forcemea! Pork forcemeat, ordinary. pork pork and and pork lean pork quantities of finely minced of finely Mix equal equal quantities Mix minced Iean (see SAL SALT). sa# (see fat. Season with Spiced salt Season with fat. Tl. etc. vegetables, etc. stuffed vegetablcs, sausages, stu/fed for crépinelles, cripinettes, sausages, Used for Used potted preparatiollS. preparations. pflt6s and and potted for pâtés forcemeat for Poultry forcemeal Poultry pAr6s ET Ingredients. Br TERRINES TERRINEs -- Ingredients. PouR PÂTÉS voLAILLE POlIR FARcE DE DE VOLAILLE FARCE (2 lb.) g. (2 lb.) fresh fresh veal, 900 900 g. oz.) veal, g. (li lb.) poultry, poultry, 200 2A0 g. 575 g. 575 (7 oz.) e.Q (see solt (see Spiced salt g. (2 tablespoons) Spiced oz., 33 tablespoons) pork fat, 50 g. fat, 33 eggs, eggs, 50 Q oz., pork generous cup) (scant I plllt, pint, generous brandy. cup) brandy. 2f dl. dl. (scant SALT), 21 SALT), mortar in aa mortar finely in fat. Pound Pound finely poultry, veal, veal, and and fat. Dice the the poultry. Dice Mix weil. well. the brandy. brandy' Mix eggs and and the Add the the eggs the seasoning. seasoning. Add with the sieve. Rub th through Rub rough aa sieve. poultry. FARCE FARcE roast poultry. poached, braiscd, or roast braised' or for poacbcd, Forcemeat for Forcemeat pocuEES, BRAISÉES, pouR VOLAILLES This stuffing stuffing isis n6nrs -- This uteIsErs, RÔTIES vot,Alrrns POCHÉES, POUR parsley with chopped chopped parsley meat, with sausage meat, made with with sausage usually made usually slowly in in butter butter cookod slowly onion, cooked chopped onion, Sometimes chopped added. Sometimes added. added. are added. soft, and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are very soft, until very until Dice poultry. FARCE FARcE TRlIFFÉE rnurr6n - Diee for truffled trufled pooltry. Forcemeat for Forcemeat gras. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw foie pork fat oz.) raw fat and and 250 250 g. lb.) fresh fresh pork ke. (2i foie gras. 1I kg. Qi lb.) g' to peelings from to from 800 800 g. cleaned peelings the cleaned Add the mortar. Add in aa mortaL Pound in pepper, and and aa with salt, salt, pepper, (11 lb Season with truffies. Season lb to Ztlb.) to 2* kg. (Il 1I kg. lb.) truffies. take itit very smooth, smooth, take mixture isis very pinch of the mixture spices. When When the of spices. pinch gently over low fla flame. very low over aa very cook gcntly and cook mortar and out of of the the mortar out me. fine sieve. sieve. Rub through through aa fine Rub (18 oz.) Add ta to itit fat. Add g. (18 truffied fal. of this this truffied oz.) of 500 g. melt 500 Slowly melt SIowly as inin(the peelings peelings having been used, used, as having been peeled truffies truffies (the the peeled Ihe quartered if if large large or or pork fat), fat), quartered the pork flavour the to flavour dicated above, above, to dicated powdered thyme, pepper, powdered thyme, salt, pepper, with salt, Season with small. Seasoll whole ifif smalt whole Leave to 10 10 minutes. minutes. Leave heat for for 88 to low heat on aa low leaf. Poach Poach on and bay bay Ieaf. and quite cold, cold, add add they are are quite When Ihey covered. When cool, covered. to cool, the truffies trufres 10 the mix and mix pork fat. Add aa little little brandy brandy and fat. Add the pork rest of of the to the the rest them to them

(5 (5 oz.) oz.) grated grated fresh fresh pork pork fat. fat. When When it it is is very very hot, hot, put put in in 300 g. (l(III oz.) oz.) trimmed trimmed chicken chicken livers, livers, 15 15 e. g. G (! oz., OZ., 2 2 table300 g. spoons) spoons) chopped shallots, 25 25 g. (l (l oz., oz., I1 cup) mushroom mushroom

+

peelings, peelings, a a sprig of of thyme, thyme, L buy bay leaf. Icaf. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, and and a little spice. spice. Brown the the livers livers quickly over aa hot flame flame to to seal them. [hem. very hot very Leave Leave to to cool. Pound Pound in in a mortar mortar and and rub rub through through aa sieve, sieve, or or reduce reduce to to a a pur6e purée in III an an electric electric blender. blender. Keep Keep in in an earthenware container in in a a cool cool place, place, and and cover cover with buttered buttered paper. paper. Prepared in in this this way, way, the the forcemeat will will keep keep for for several several days. It is spread on the the crottons croûtons of of fried bread bread which are used used as salmis as a base base for small roast game birds, or served with salmis and civets. civets. A À gratin game game forcemeat. FARcr FARCE A À cnern GRATIN DE DE cIBIER GIBIER Proceed Proceed as as for for A À gratin gratin calves' ca/ves' liver /iver forcemeal, forcemeal, using using the following ingredients:: following ingredients g. of game, 250 g. 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) livers livers of of various various types types of game, 100 100 g. (9 oz.) young rabbit meat, 50 g. g. (4 oz.) belly of pork, 250 g. (9 g. (1 (2 oz.) foie gras, gras, 25 25 g. oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 3 egg (2 oz) foie 0 o2.,2 (se SA Game SAUCE) yolks, sauce (see Espagnole sauce UeE) made made with with Came yolks, Espagnole (see f'UVnT), fumet (see FUMET), seasoning and and spices as as for for A À gratin gralin fumet (6 tablespoons, seant! scant 1 cup) .up) dl. (6 calves' forcemeat, I1 dl. calves' liver forcemeat, Madeira. Madeira. gratin purposes as as A This stuffing stuffing is is used used for for the the same purposes À gratin for hot is especially especially used liver forcemeat. forcemeal. lt lt is used for hot pdtds pâtés calves' calves' /iver and game pies. and currN os gratin poultry forcemeat. r.lncs À poultry liver liver forcemeat, FARCE A À GRATIN DE A gratin gratin ca/yesO liver calves' /iver for A as for À gratin FOIES DE VOLAILLE -- Proeeed Proceed as FoIEs DE VoLAILLE quantity of of trirruned trimmed an equal equal quantity substituting an forcemeat, substituting forcemeat, for pdtis used for This is is used livers. This poultry calves' Iivers. livers for for the the calves' poultry Iivers pâtés preparations. and potted preparations. and MoUssELINE DITE MOUSSELINE A LA rl CREME, cRirrar, DITE FARCE À forcemeat. FARCE Mousseline forcemeat. Mousseline poultry, or game, (2+ lb.) or game, veal, poultry, lb.) boned boned veal, Ingredienls. 1I kg. -- Ingredients. kg. (2;jegg removed, 44 egg etc. removed, tendons, etc. with aU all gristle, tendons, trimmed and with trimmed and (2f pints, pints) thick fresh cream, cream, 33 thick fresh pints, }1 3f pints) 1| litres litres (2i whites, li whites, teaspoon white pepper. teaspoons salt, iI teaspoon Season. Add finely in in aa mortar. mortar. Season. Pound the the meat meat finely Method. Pound i'vfethod. pounding weIl. through well. Rub through time, pounding little at at aa time, whites aa Iittle the egg whites Keep itit spoon. Keep wooden spoon. with aa wooden vigorously with sieve. Stir Stir vigorously aa fine fine sieve. cream aa hours. Then Then add add the the cream possible, for for 22 hours. cool, on on iee ice if if possible, cool, on iee ice if possible. stirring weIl, well, on little at at aa time, time, stirring little mousselines. mousses and and mousselines. balls, mousses for fine fine forcemeat forcemeat balls, Use Use for p.l,N.c,oE ET AU Er Ali A LA rn PANADE FARCE À with butter. butter. FARCE forcemeat witll Panada Pana da forcemeat (2+ lb.) poultry, bOlled boned veal or or pouItry, kg. (2t lb.) veal BEURRE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1I kg. BEURRE g. gristle and removed, 500 500 g. and tendons tendons removed, all gristle with ail and and trimmed, trimmed, with (18 oz., whole eggs, eggs, (18 Ol.) panada, 500 oz.,2f,cups) 500 g. oz.) panada, (18 2* cups) butter, 44 whole e. (l8 pinch pepper, pinch white pepper, yolks, 22 teaspoons salt, j teaspoon teaspoon white teaspoons salt, 88 yolks, grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated mortar with with poultry. Pound in aa mortar Pound in veal or or poultry. Method. Diee Dice the the veal Method. panada. put in the panada. in the the mortar mortar and and put Take out out of of the seasoning. Take seasolling. pound vigorously. vigorously. the meat meat and and pound Add butter. butter. Put Put back back the Add yolks, one Rub the the forceforcetime. Rub one al at aa time. the yolks, Add the the eggs eggs and and the Add wooden spoon spoon well with with aa wooden Work weil fine sieve. sieve. Work meat through through aa fine meat in an an may be be made made in This forcemeat forcemeat may very smooth. smooth. This untiI until very blender. electric blender. electric to moulds, and to borders, mou balls, borders, for forcemeat forcemeat balls, used for 1tIt isis used Ids, and poultry, etc. stuff poultry, etc. stuff plNlnn (game). FARCE r,c, PANADE FARcE ÀA LA butter (game). with butter forcemeat with Panada forcemeat Panada (crnrrn) -- Proceed above recipe recipe for the the above as for Proceed as Er Ali AU BEURRE BEURRE (GIBIER) ET game. trimmed game. boned and and trimmed using using boned moulds, borders, mou for forcemeat forcemeat balls, balls, borders, This stuffing stuffing isis used used for This Ids, game birds. stuff game birds. and 10 to sluff and

(I±

±

+

thoroughly. thoroughly. u GRAISSE, curssn, ÀA rlncs ÀA GODfVEAU coorveau ÀA LA forcemeat I.I. FARCE Quenelle Qlrenelle forcemeat 387 387

FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS LA GLACE cLAcE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. 1I kg. (2+ lb.) kg. (2~ lb.) lean lean veal gristle veal wilh with grislle LA (18 oz.) and tendons tendons removed, removed, 500 500 g.g. (18 oz.) well-dried well-dried beef beef suet, suet, and whole eggs, eggs, 44 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, l teaspoon pepper, teaspoon white white pepper, 88 whole pinch graled grated nulmeg, (lt lb.) nutmeg, 800 800 g.g. (I~ lb.) chopped chopped ice, ice, or or failing failing pinch (l+ pints, pints, li this, 77 dl. dl. (I~ pints) iced lj pinls) iced water. water. tbis, Mince the Method. Mince the veal veal and and the the suet suet separately. separately. Add Add the the Melhod. seasoning. Still keeping Ihem Still keeping pound Ihe thern separate, separate, pound the veal veal and and seasoning. the suet. suet. Then Then put put them them together together and pound 10 and pound paste. to aa fine fine pas the te. Add the the eggs, pounding. Rub eggs, one one by by one, one, still still pounding. Rub through through aa Add fine sieve. sieve. Spread Spread the mixture out plate, and the mixture out on on aa plaIe, and leave leave itit on on fine ice tiU till the the next next day. day. ice Pound the the stuffing stuffing once once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound ice, broken broken into pieces and into small small pieees put in gradually. Mix and put in gradually. Mix weIl. well. ice, Test the the foreemeat forcemeat by poaching aa small by poaehing piece. Add small piece. Add aa little little Test iced water water if if ilit isis too too firm; firm; aa little little white white of if too of egg egg if too soft. soft. iced This stuffing stuffing isis made made inlo into forcemeat forcemeat balls balls which which are are served served This pies, or invol-au-venf garnish large or pies, or used used to to garnish large cuts cuts ofmeat of meat or or vol-au-vent or in poultry. poultry. II. FARŒ forcemeat II. rancs ÀA GODIVEAU coorvsA.u ÀA LA ra CRÈME cnirr,m Quenelle foreemeat Quenelle Ingredimts. 1I kg. kg. (2;;' lb.) trimmed trimmed noix noix or or loin loin 'of bf veal, veal, 1I kg. kg. Qi lb.) Ingredients. (2* lb.) lb.) beef beef suet, suet, 44 whole yolks, 77 dl. whole eggs, eggs, 33 yolks, pinti, dl. (1 ~ pints, (2~ pints) fresh lf pints) fresh cream, cream, 44 teaspoons teaspoons salt, pepper, salt, 11 teaspoon teaspoon pepper, l! pinch nutmeg. nutmeg. pinch Method. Pound Pound the the chopped chopped veal veal and and suet suet in in aa mortar mortar Melhod. separately, then then mix mix them. them. Add Add the the seasoning, seasoning, the the eggs eggs and and separately, yolks, one one by one, mixing mixing vigorously. vigorously. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine yolks, by one, sieve and and spread spread il it out out weIl well on on aa board. board. Leave Leave on on ice ice until until sieve the next next day. day. the Pound the the sluffing stuffing ouce once more more in in the the mortar, mortar, adding adding the the Pound cream aa [itUe little at at aa time. time. cream Test the as indicated in the the preceding recipe, Test the forcemeat forccrneat as indicated in preeeding recipe, adjusting the the consislency consistenry if if necessary. This forcemeat is adjusting necessary. This forcemeat is used in same way way as as Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat used in the the same forcemeal I. l. forcemeat balls. A GODIVEAU coorwau -- These These balls Quenelle forcemeat Quenelle balls, runcr FARŒ À balls can be are usually can be piped piped through through aa forcing-bag, forcing-bag, but but they they are usually rolled by and poached salt water. rolled by hand hand and poached in in salt water. They can also They can also be be poached poached dry, dry, as as follows: follows: Pipe onto buttered Pipe the the forcemeat forcemeat through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag onlo buttered paper sheet. Put paper laid laid on on a a buttered buttered baking baking sheet. Put the the balls balls fairly fairly close Cook in 8 minutes. close together. together. Cook in a a moderate moderate oven oven for for 77 to to 8 minutes. When When little liule pinkish pinkish beads beads of of fat fat begin begin to to appear appear on on the the surface, surface, the the balls balls are are ready. ready. Take Take them them out out of of the the oven. oyen. Overturn Overtum on on aa board board or or marble marble slab, slab, peel peel off oIf the the paper, paper, holding holding it il at at one one corner. corner. Use Use as as required. required. Verl Veal forcemeat foreemeat for for borderg bord ers, large large strfred stulJed forcemeat forcemeal ballg balls, lininEs linings (for (for the the presentatim presentation of of hot hot entrees). entrées). FARcE FARCE DE DE vEAU VEAU poLJR BoRDURES, cRossns euENELrss rounnfts, FoNDs DE POUR BORDURES, GROSSES QUENELLES FOURRÉES, FONDS DE pLAr - Ingredients. I kg. (2t lb.) lean veal, 300 g. PLAT - Ingredients. l kg. (2;\ lb.) lean veal, 300 g. (Il oz.) oz.) Flour Flour panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANADA), 55 whole whole eggs, eggs, 88 yolks, yolks, l! 1~ dl. dl. cold Bichamel Gl (;\- pint,3 pint,! cup) cup) very very thick, thick, cold Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAU-E), SAUCE), 33 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nulmeg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the veal veal finely finely in in aa mortar mortar with with seasoning. seasoning. Take Take it it out out of of the the mortar rnortar and and put put the the panada panada in in its ils place. place. Pound Pound until until it it is is very very creamy. creamy. Add Add the the veal vea] and and pound pound thoroughly. thoroughly. Add Add the the eggs eggs and and yolks, yolks, one one at at aa time, time, then then the the bichamel béchamel sauce. sauce. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Work Work with with aa spatula spatula until it is until it is very very smooth. smoolh. veal Veal and and port pork forcemat. foreemea!. FARCE FARCE DE DE VEAU VEAU ET ET DE DE PORC PORC Chop Chop 300 300 g. g. (11 (Il oz.) oz.) round round of of veal, veal, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) lean lean pork pork and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) fresh fresh fat fat bacon. bacon. Pound Pound together together in in aa mortar, mortar, add add 22 whole whole eggs eggs and and I1 dl. dl. (6 salt (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It cup) cup) brandy, brandy, season season with with Spiced Spiced salt (see (see SALT) SALT) and and rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve.

Anchovy foreemeat forremeat J.f. FARCE r.lnce AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Make Make aa white white Anchovy roux of of 1I tablespoon tablespoon buller butter and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons fioul. flour. Moisten Moisten roux (6 tablespoons, with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant !cup) boiling milk. milk. Cook Cook for for with I cup) boiling few minutes minutes over over aa very very hot hot fla flame, stirring with with aa wooden wooden aa few me, stirring spoon. When When very very thiek, thick, remove remove from from the the stove. stove. spoon. Add 1I whole yolks, and whole egg, eEE,2 and the the filJets fillets of of 44 desalted desalted Add 2 yolks, anchovies. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Cook Cook for for aa few few seconds, seconds, anchovies. stirring. Rub Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. stirring. This stuffing stuffing isis used used as filling for as aa filling for savoury savoury tarts, tarts, dartois, Thil; dartois, pdtis, pies, pies, etc. small pâlés, etc. small (Car6me's recipe). Anchovy forcemeat forcemeat II, tr. (Carême's FARcE D'ANCHOIS recipe). FARŒ D'ANcHors Anchovy 'Soak 275 g. (10 (10 oz.) 275 g. oz.) anehovies anchovies to to remove remove the the salt; salt; c1ean clean -"- 'Soak and bone bone them. them. Toss Toss for (4 oz., for 22 minutes minutes in g. (4 in 100 100 g. oz.,1c.rp) and t cup) seasoned with butter, seasoned with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fines butter, fines pinch of herbes, aa pinch of nutmeg, nutmeg, and (see and aa very very little little Spiced Spiced salt sclt (see herbes, SALT). SALT). 'When the the mixture mixture isis cold, pound the eold, pound the fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy 'When (6 oz.) g. (6 with 175 panada (see 175 g. (see PANADA). Add oz.) Bread panada Add the with the cooking butter butter with with the thefines herbes. Pound Pound Ihis this mixture mixture for for cooking fines herbes. (4 oz., g. (4 add 100 100 g. (crayfish butter oz.,lt cup) cup) butter (crayfish 55 minutes, add butter or or some other yolks. Mix other kind) kind) and and 33 egg egg yolks. Mix weIl.' well.' sorne This mixture mixture is is used used mostly mostly for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. It It can This can also be be used used ta to stuft' stuff vegetables, vegetables, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, mushmushalso rooms, tomatoes, tomatoes, etc. etc. to to provide aa Lenten dish. rooms, Freshwater crayfish crayfiS forcemeal. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'ÉCREVISSES o'fcnsvlssns Fresbwater Proceed as for Prawn or shrimp forcemeat (see as for (see below). Procecd Cream fisb fsh forcemeat forcemeat (L~mten), (Lenten). FARCE (r,r.llcnu) FARcE À A LA rn CRÈME cnirr,m (MAIGRE) Cream Proceed as as indicated indicated for for veal poultry Mousseline veal or or poultry -- Proceed Mousseline fish instead instead of rneal. meat. Pike, whiting, or sorne forcemeat, using fish some other suitable suitable fish may be used. other porssoN Fish foreemeat forcemeat l. I. FARCE Elncr DE Fish DE POISSON Ingredients. 1I kg. - Ingrediens. (2+ lb.) lb.) pike other white-fleshed g. (14 fish), 400 4gp g. oi.) (2t pike (or (or other whitc-fieshed fish), Oa oz.) Frangipane panada (see PANADA), 44 egg or Rice panada or Riœ panada panada (see whites, 44 teaspoons salt, LI teaspoon pepper and and aa small whites, teaspoons salt, pinch grated nutmeg. of grated pinch of Method. as Quenelle Melhod. Prepare as j'orcemeal IL li. Quenelle forcemeat FiS Fish forcemeat tr. FARcE FARCE DE porssoN POISSON - Chop finely 300 g. (ll g. (7 (7 oz.,3l (lI oz.) whiting whiting or or other white fish. fish. Add 200 200 g. oz., 3t cups) soaked in cups) breadcrumbs, soaked in milk milk and and squeezed, squeezcd, 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., it cup) butter, butter, I1 tablespoon choppod chopped blanched chives, chivei, I1 tablespoon Season with salt, tablespoon chopped chervil chervil and parsley. parsley. Season pepper, pepper, and nutmeg. nutrneg. Bind with 2 eggs. eggs. Mix thoroughly. Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for fr$ fisil nousses mousses and and mousselines. mousselines. FARCE FARCE MOUS$LINE MOUSSELINE POIjR POUR MOUSSES MOUSSES ET ET MOUSSELINES MOUSSELINES DE DE polssoNs lb.) skinned and boned POISSONS -- Ingredients. Ingredients. I1 kg. (2+ (2ilb.) boned pike, whiting, whiting, sole, sole, salmon, or or trout, trout, 4 egg whites, whites, lf li litres (2{ (2;\pints, pints, 2f; 2~ pints) pints) fresh fresh cream, cream, lf lt teaspoons salt, jt teaspoon teaspoon white white pepper, pepper, pinch pinch grated grated nutmeg. nutrneg. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the fish fish in in a mortar mortar with the the seasoning. seasoning. Add Add the the egg egg whites, whites, a a little little at at a a time. time. Rub the mixture through through a fine fine sieve. Stir on ice ice until until very very smooth smooth and and leave leave on on the the ice ice for for 2 2 hours. hours. Add Add the the cream, cream, a little little at a a time, time, stirring stirring gently gently with with a spatula. spatula. This This mixture mixture is is used used for for light light fish fish quenelles, quenelles, mousses, mousses, and and mousselines, mousselines, and also also for for stuffing stuffiug large large braised braised fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with with butter butter @enten). (Lenten). M,ncs FARCE A À r,c, LA IANADE PANADE ET ET AU AU BEURRE BEURRE (rrHrcnr) (MAIGRE) - Proceed Proceed as as for for veal veal or or chicken chicken Panadaforcemeat Panadtlforcemeat with wilh butter butter using using pike, pike, whiting, whiling, or or some sorne other other suitable suitable fish. fish. This This isis used uscd for for plain plain fish fish quenelles, quenelles, borders, borders, moulds, rnoulds, and and for for stuffing stuffing large large fish. fish. Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat for for fi$ fisil and and shelffish sbellfisb mtltrsses. mousses. FARcE FARCE por.JR MoussEs DE porssoNs E'r DE cRusrAcfs (A u rlNlon) POUR MOUSSES DE POISSONS ET DE CRUSTACÈS (À LA PANADE)Proceod Proceed as as for for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat for for fish fish mousses, mousses, using using the following ingredients: (2* I kg. lb.) boned and skinned the following ingredients: 1 kg. (2~ lb.) boned and skinned fish, fish, 450 450 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) lb.) Frangipane Frangipane panada panada (see (see PANADA), PANA DA), 44 egg lt litres litres (2| (2~ pints, pints, 3f 3± pints) pinls) cream, eream, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, egg whites, whites, l| grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg.

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n.

(ll

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FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS STUFFINGS MADE MADE WITH WITH FISH. FISH. FARCES FARCES DB DE PorssoNs. POISSONS, cnusmc6s: CRUSTACÉS:

388 388

HAM FORELEG FORELEGHAM vated vated mu$room$ mushrooms, moreb morels., St. St. Goorge's mushroong etc. FARCE fARCE DE DE cHAMpIcNoNS CHAMPIGNONS DIvERs DIVERS - Proceed, using using one one or or other of of these these fungi, first first tossed tosscd in in butter, butter, as as for for Truffie Trulfle jorcemeal (see below). These These forcemeats are are usd used in in the forcemeat

The Tbe addition addition of of the the panada panada to to this this forcemeat forcemeat gives gives it it body, body, but but makes makes it il less less delicate in flavour. ftavour. It is is used used for the the same purposes as Moasseline forcemeat for fish mousses. Pickled herring or sardine forremeat. FARcE DE HARENGS Use fillets sAURs, DE SARDTNEs fiJJels of of pickled herring or f()rt~pm'p{}/ L l. sardines, as for Anchovy forcemeat la lyonnaise, or Pike forcemeat or fuiveau GOOiveau lyonnaise. lyo!lllaÎse. FARCE FARCE DE DE BRoCHET BROCHET A À Ln LA rvor.rNArsn, LYONNAISE, DITE GoDTvEAU GODIVEAU LyoNLYONNAIsE NAISE - Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz.) skinned and boned pike, pike, 500 g. (18 oz.) trimmed and and minced mînced beef beef suet, 500 g. (18 oz.) teaFrangipane Fran.gipane panada (see (see PANADA) PANADA) 4 egg egg whites, whites, Zf, 2± teaspoons salt, f; teaspoon pepper, pinch nutmeg. Method. Melhod. Pound the fat, the panada, and the egg whites in a mortar. morlar. Add the pike and the seasoning. Work the stuffing stuffing vigorously Vl""H'''''''V with with the the pestle. pestle. Rub Rub through a a fine tine sieve sieve and work with a a spatula until the mixture is very smooth. An An electric blender can be used. This This forcemeat forcemeat is is used used for for large large fish fish balls balls known known as quenelles lyonnaises. To make these, these. shape the forcemeat in a a spoon and poach in salt water. Simmer for l0 10 minutes in În with them, the served with the sauce sauce to to be be served them, usually usually a a meatless (se SAUCE) containing mushrooms, Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) containing stoned olives, olives, truffies, truffles, and other small delicacies. sauce such with aa thick are served with When pike quenelles are thiek sauce When other white as Nantua, lobster, shrimp, white whÎte wine or any olher as shellfisfu they sauce suitable for fish and shellfish, they should simply be poached drainrng and and drying them in salt water. After poacherl in salt Afler draining in a artichoke on artichoke on bread cloth, serve serve them cloth. them on bread fried fried in in butter, bUller, on with the sauce cover wlth hearts, or on flaky pastry. Garnish, and cover indicated indicated in the Ihe selected recipe. DE CREVETTES cREvETTES forcemeat. FARCE Prawn or shrimp forccmeat. FARCE DE - Pound (4 oz., with g. (4 or shrimps with o2.,3 in aa mortar mortar 100 100 g. prawns or in "up) to sieve. Add 10 g. ((4 oz., It cup) butter. through a fine butter. Rub fine sieve. 100 g. of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, of yolks of its volume volume of this mixture half its well. sieve. Mix weil. rubbed through lhrough aa fine tine sieve. hors-d'euvre. This mixture is used for cold hors-d'œuvre. FrNE DE DE CRUSTAcF.S cnusuc6s fine. FARCE rlncs FINE Shellfish forcemeat, Bne. Shelffish cream forcemeat, indicated for shellfish, as as indicated using shellfish, A LA r,c, CRÈME cRit'fi - Proceed, Proceed, using À for Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat for for jish ftsh mousses. used for for quenelles. This is used

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same same way way as as truffie trume forcemeat. forcemeaL Garlic forcemeat forcemeat - See GARLIC. GARLlC. Raviofi Ravioll forcemeat forcemeat - See RAVIOLI. RA VIOU.

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Sage and onion oniOIl forcemeat forcemeat @ngli$ (English cookery). r'rlRcE FARŒ A À LA LA sAUcE SAUGE - Used Used to stuff stutr poultry, especially duck duck and and goose. goose.

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Bake Bake 2 large onions in their skins in the oven. oven. Leave Leave to to cool. Skin and chop them. Mix Mil< with with 150 1 g. (5 (5 o2.,2| oz., 2! cups) breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, which which have been dipped dappe
thoroughly. Trufle forcemeat lorCernejlt (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). FARcE FARCE Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES 'Chop 'Chop 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.) black truffies, trumes, and toss them for for a a few (4 oz., i~ c,rp) butter with Spiced Spiced minutes minutes in 100 g. (4 butter seasoned seasoned with (see SALT) and a touch of nutmeg. Drain salt (see Drain the trufles truffles on 75 e.Q aplate, andpound a and g. (3 oz.) Breadpanada(sePANADA). Breadpanada(see: PANADA). 'When the trufres in the mortar HUmes are cold, cold, put put thern tbem in mOrlar and pound pound them with with the the panada panada for for aa few few minutes. Add Add the cooked, and butter butter in in which the the truffies truffies were were cooked, and pound pound totogether Mix in smooth. Mix gether until untiJ the mixture is is perfectly perfectly smooth. in 3 egg yolks.' yolks.' and winged used for This forcemeat is This is used for stuffing stuffing poultry poultry and is also also used game, and and for for meat meal or fish paupiettes paupielle.ç (q.v.). (q.v.). It It îs in various various hot pdtis. plah. for vegetables (various). FARcE poun r,6cuurs SfutrngF for Sruffings Used to stuff stuff vegetables such as aubergines, small vegetable vegelable artichoke zucchini), tomatoes, marrows (courgettes marrows (courgettes or or zucchini), tomatoes, artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. elc. It Il is is really really aa thickened thickened Duxelles Duxelles sauce (see of the the vegetables, the pulp of which is added the SAUCE) to SAUCE) to which is addcd oil. scooped out after they have beentcooked in oi!. DE JAUNES D'oEUFs-- Cold. Cold. Rub Rub JAUNES D'OEUFS Yolk of egg stuffing. FARcE fARCE DE sieve. Add Add fine sieve. yolks of through aa fine l0 hard-boiled eggs through the yolks of 10 paste. Season with g. (4 (4 oz., t* cup) butter with to aa paste. butter softened to 100 g. pepper, and mix. salt and white pepper, salt mix. hors-d'ouvre, especially especially spread in in co cold This is is used used as as aa spread This Id hors-d'œuvre,

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(see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold horsrusse (see la russe for Canapds àit la for halvod hard-boiJerl hard-boiled for halved used as as filling for d'euvre\. It is is also also used d'œuvre). tartlets barquettes or or t.artlets hearts, and and small barque/les eggs, artichoke artichoke hearts, eggs, garnishes wiÙ1 dishes. served as with cold dîshes. as garnishes yolks of hard-boiled eggs through aa sieve. of hard-boiled .F/ot. Rub the the yolks HOI. Rub thick Bichamel sauce of thick half Iheir their weight of Mix with with half Season. Mix Season. passed through (see SA through aa fine sieve. SAUCE) (sec UCE) passed prehard-boiled eggs to fill fill hard-boile
STUFFINGS. or STUFFINGS. FORCEMEATS or MISCELLANEOUS FORCEMEATS FARCES DlVERSESDIVERSES _ FARCES VARIETY MEATS. forcemeat -- See 0OFFAL Brain forcemeaf FF AL or V A RlETY M EA TS. pouR POISSONS polssoNs - Soak Soak 250 250 g. r.lnct POUR Forcemeat for for ftsh, fish. FARCE Forcemeat (9 oz., them. milk and and squeeze squeeze them. in milk o2.,4| cups) cups) breadcrumbs in (9 g. (3 (3 oz., chopped cup) finely finely ehopped Add 75 75 g. o2.,1 Beat in in aa bowl. Beat %cup) bowl. Add (l oz., g. (1 soft, 25 25 g. in buller until very soft, butter untiJ onion, cooked cooked slowly in onion, the white wine wine until until aH all Ihe cooked in in white shallot, cooked c,rp) chopped shallot, i* cup) g. (4 OZ., chopped raw o2.,2 moisture has evaporated, 100 g. 2 cups) chopped (or 3 tab1espoons tablespoons have been been squeezed squeezed (or mushrooms, which have (scant t cup) chopped tablespoon chopped duxelles),, and and 1 tablespoou cup) dry dry duxelles) (seant pepper, parsley. Bind with salt, salt, pepper, Season with whole eggs. Bind with eggs. Season parsley. with 22 whole and grated nutmeg. and forcefor which which the the forcethe dish dish for According to of the Ac,.:,orOWlg to the nature of garlic may added. may be be added. touch of garlic meat is is to to be used, used, aa toueh potssoNs À poun POISSONS A fish. FARŒ rmcr POlJ'R Forcemeat Forceneat à la la provengale for Ilsb. (4 oz., g. (4 oz., 1I cup) finely 100 g. Cook slowly slowly 100 LA pRovENgALE (* cup) very cup) oit oil until very in 44 tablespoons tablespoons (1 chopped onions ln garlic and g. and 150 150 g. chopped clove of garlic Add aa finely finely chopped clove of tender. Add (5 oz., few for aa few raw mushrooms. Brown Brown for oz.,2f cups) chopped chopped raw (5 2{- cups) seconds. seconds. g. (9 oz., pan from 250 g. from the the stove stove and and add add 250 Remove the the pan Remove grated breadcrumbs, 1I tablespoon chopped 4{ cups) freshly freshly grated 4! parsley and and chervil, and 3 chives, tablespoon chopped parsley tablespoon chopped chives, hard-boiled eggs. eggs. chopped hard-boiled chopped salt, pepper, and grated nutmeg. Season Season witb with salt, Forcemeat of of various fungi and mushrooms, cipes, cultiForCêmeat

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growing vegetablcs vegetables and and of growing Process of FORCING. FoRgAcE -- Process glass in order ripen them them before before their their time. time. to ripen fruit under glass order to fruit 'forced'products. called 'forced' These products are are then then called These products. fruits and and vegetables is is these fruits The distinguishing quality of these The price. Good cooks seldom buy Good cooks their rarity and their high priee. theu proper season. products in iniheir season. them, preferring to use these products their proper

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PocIrE - Funnel-shapep FORCINC-BAG (U.S. Pastry-bag). POCHEFORCING-BAG (French douilles) of nozzles (French bag which which cau can be fitted with nozzles bag with made with These nozzles nozzles are are made sizes. Thes.e different shapes shapes and and sizes. different plain or or fluted, fluted, so so which can can be be plain apertures which large or or sm small large ail apertures piped in in aa wide wide range range of of be piped can be mixtures can that creamy mixtures that decorative designs.

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The French French word word TAMBoNNEAU HAM. JAMBONNEAU FORELEG HAM. FORELEG The 389 389

FORESTIERE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA) jambonneau which is is sometimes sometimes translated as as foreleg ham, ham, or picnic picnic ham in the U.S.A., refers to the portion below the ham and hind legs legs of the pig. pig. (See harn or shoulder of both fore and HAM.) HAM.)

QUATRE EptcssÉPICES - A much used mixture, for FOUR SPICES. SPICES. euArRE which, purveyor had aa special formula. which, formerly, each purveyor formula. The most usual is the following: following: (* oz.) powdered cloyes, 125 e. g. g (4 oz.) white pepper, l0 10 e. g. (t n5 cloves, (generous I1 oz.) grated nutmeg. (l oz.) ginger, 35 g. 30 g. (1 g. (generous

fOnfSffDRE FORESTIÈRE (A (À LA) --

Method of preparation of smalJ small cuts of meat and poultry, garnished ofmeat garnished with with morels, morels, lean larding bacon bacon cut in large large pieces, and diced potatoes fried in butter. butter.

FOUR YELLOW YELLOW FRUITS. FRUITS F'OUR FRUITS. QUATRE euArRE FRUrrs Oranges, lemons, lemons, bitter bitter oranges, and citrons. citrons. Oranges,

(See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

FOX. nsxlno RENARD - Animal Animal ranking as vermin. Its flesh f1esh is very tough and with an extremely unpleasant 'wild' taste, but it tough eaten after the the animal animal has has been been skinned and is sometimes eaten f1esh soaked in running water or boiling water. the flesh

FOR](, FouRcHErrE FOURCHETTE - Table utensil utensil designed designed to to pick up FORK meat food. It It is is of very very ancient ancient origin origin as as it is meat and and other food. mentioned in the Old Testament. It was first used used as a ritual instrument to to grip grip pieces pieces of meat meat destined for for sacrifices; sacrifices; later it was used in the kitchen. kitchen. According to the eleventh eleventh century Italian Italian scholar, Damiani, Damiani, forks forks were introduced introduced into century Byzantine princess and thence spread through Venice by a Byzantine Italy. They are mentiond mentioned in in 1379 1379 in in an an inventory of the French king, king, Charles Charles V; V; and and Edward Edward II II of of England's England's French favourite, favourite, Piers Gaveston, Gaveston, is recorded recorded as having having eaten a pear pear the early fourteenth fourteenth century. century. However, eating with a fork in the not become fashionable fashionable until until the the sevensevenwith forks forks did did not with century. teenth centurv.

COOKERY, WINE. FRANCE -- See See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, FRANCHE-COMTÉ -- Mountainous region in the western FRANCHF-COMTE part of the Belfort Gap, surrounded surrounded by regions regions abundant in edible products products and famous famous wines. In edible ln the north are Lorraine inc1uding the Bugey, which and Alsace; in the south Savoy, including a great centre of fine fine cuisine. To west it borders on is a To the west Bresse, and and Champagne. To the east Burgundy, Bresse, To the east its its immediate neighbour neighbour is Switzerland. The mediate The geographical position of Franche-Comt6 Franche-Comté has influenced its inhabitants inhabitants to be great of gastronomes. gastronomes. A variety of excellent foods is produced in this province. Franche-Comté and the Jura, the beef beef cattle are famous In Franche-Comt6 their well-flavoured well-f1avoured meat and and high-quality milk, milk, from for their cheese and and other other dairy dairy products products are are made. made. In In the which cheese orchards of Franche-Comt6, Franche-Comté, excellent excellent fruit, fruit, particularly particularly orchards an abundant stone fruit, is grown. This part of France has an variety of of game. In the rivers, streams, streams, and ponds, ponds, numerous variety quantities. The inhabitants in habitants kinds of fish are found in great quantities. cook them them in in delicious delicious ways, ways, notably in in succulent stews. cook stews. red mullet, pike Known for their delicacy are Saulon carp, red Doubs and and Dessoubs Dessoubs trout, trout, and and Breuchin Breuchin from Ognon, Ognon, Doubs from trout the the flesh f1esh of which is is very well weil flavoured. f1avoured. In salmon trout Breuchin there there are also good crayfish. the Breuchin Franche-Comté include inc1ude Septmoncel, Septmoncel, which which Chee ses from Franche-Comtd Cheeses knowledgeable people consider a rival to Roquefort, some knowledgeable Comté cheese, which is a kind of Gruydre, Gruyère, Fromagdre, Fromagère, and Comt6 Fromage fort. Fromage

dfl

Renaissance forks

-In the seventeenth seventeenth century, century, use use of the the fork, which was originally two-pronged, two-pronged, then three-pronged, and later la ter fouroriginally pronged, pronged, spread spread from from Italy Italy and and Spain Spain into into France France and England. England. An English English traveller named Thomas Thomas Coryate is bringing the the use use of the the fork to England after a credited with bringing trip to 1608. to Italy in 1608. While in Paris in in 1612, Coryate Coryate remarked that the the fork While was though not yet amongst the the comwas used used in good society, though mon people. H6rouard Hérouard in the Journal Journal of of Louis Louis XIZ XIV speaks speaks mon of the the Dauphin beating beating the the table table with his his fork and spoon. spoon. of Modern forks forks are made made in in many sizes and and many metals, metals, as Modern as to to the weil as as in plastics plastics and and woods. woods. Etiquette varies as well proper proper way of of holding holding and using using a fork, and in which hand. FORK LUNCIIEON. LUNCHEON. orretrNm. DÉJEUNER A Àu LA rouncHErrE FOURCHETTE - A meal meal FORK taken towards towards the middle middle of of the the day. day. FOUNT AIN. roxrl'trqs FONTAINE - Term Term employed in pastry-making pastry-making FOUNTAIN. to describe describe placing placing flour f10ur on the the board board in a circle. circle. to various ingredients ingredients used used to to make make the the pastry pastry are then then The various placed placed inside inside the'fountain'. the 'fountain'.

FOURDERAINE -- Home-made Home-made liqueur which used used to to be be FOURDERAIhIE common in in the the north north of of Franoe France and is still sometimes sometimes found common there. The hedge hedge sloes used in making making it are picked picked after after the the there. is prepared in in the the first frost, frost, when when they they are are ripe. This This liqueur liqueur is first same way as as cassis. cassis. s:!me FOURME -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. FOURME

FOUR FOUR MENDICANTS. MENDICANTS. euArRE QUATRE MENDTANTs MENDIANTS -- Dessert Dessert made made up up of figs, figs, raisins, raisins. hazelnuts, hazelnuts, and and almonds, whose whose colours of the the four four mendicant mendicant Orders. colours recall recall those those of

FOUR RED RED FRUITS. FRUITS. eu.rrnr QUATRE FRUrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES berries, cherries, cherries, redcurrants redcurrants and and raspberries. raspberries. berries,

--

-

JAUNES TAUNBS -

StrawStrawFranche-Comté (French (French Government Government Tourist Tourisi Office) Office) Franche-Comt6

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SAVOY SAVOY of Frar.che-Comte Franche-Comt6 Gastronomic map map or Gastronomie

gratin; cheese an gralin; cheese pain d'écrivisses; marrow au d'ioivisses; marrow cheese fondue; cheese fondue; pain pancakes called called onion /Ourle; tourte; pancakes potatoes; morels toast: onion morels on on loasl; po/alOes,' specially cheese tart tart specially ramekins ; frillers; matefaim ; rumekins; male/àim; flamus se, cheese frit ter s : flamusse, and made with with eggs eggs and flat bread bread made siche, flat made Ln in Burgundy; Burgundy; sèche, made pastry and and almond pas/l'y Baume-les-Dames; a/mond of Baume-les-Dames; sugar; craquelins craquelins of sugar; malakof of of Montb6liard; malakoff viques of of Montbéliard; Montbozon; viques biscuits of of Montbozon; bL5cuils galette de goumeau of of Saint-Amour; Saint-Amour; quiche com/Oise; de goumeau comtoise; ga/elle DOle; quiche Dôle; chestnut of Baume-les-Dames; Baume-les-Dames; ches/nu/ gaufres de de chanoinesses chanoinesses of gaufres paste made from made from Dole; pas/e pain d'épice Vercel and and Dole; of Vercel d'dpice of cakes; pain cakes; andwhortlebilberry and quinces growing growing in Baumeles-Dames; bilberry in Baume-les-Dames; quinces who rllejam l'rom Melisey. from Melisey. berry jam berry (and particularly particularly Franche-Comt6 (and Wines and and liqueurs liqueurs -- Franche-Comté Wines produces white, red, red, and and excellent white, Jura) prod of Jura) the déparlemenl dipartemmt of uces excellent the yellow wine, wine, which which the celebrated celebrated yellow not to to mention mention the ros6 wines, wines, not rosé (vins de paille) de paille) and s!raw straw wines wines (vins region, and speciality of of the the region, isis aa speciality and Hermitage, Hermitage. Jura and which are find outside outside Jura are difficu]! difficult to to find which

the specialities specialities among the Foremost among Cutinary specialities specialities -- Foremost CuJinary prepared potie franc-comlOise, which isis prepared porridge, pOlée are maize maize porridge, are franc-comtoise, which has Morteau Morteau (q.v.) from but has potie (q.v.) other regions regions but from other like pOlée Iike panada, aa dish like aa dish like leg soup; soup; panada, to il; it; frog's sausage added added to sausage frog's leg pulp; cherry soup; cherry soup; boiled to to aa pulp; and butter butter boiled soup with with bread bread and soup vegetables. fresh vegetables. soups made made with with fresh range of of soups and aa whole whole range and and can can be be Franche-Comt6 and in Franche-Comté All charculerie charcuterie isis excellent excellent in Ail includes large towns. towns. IlIt includes many other other large in Paris and many bought in Paris and bought kinds of of different kinds from Luxeuil; Luxeuil; different ham, mainly mainly l'rom smoked ham, smoked and Montbozon; and from Montbozon; sausage from sausages including including caraway caraway sausage sausages Besangon. stufed lOngue tongue from from Besançon, slUffed found in in Franche-Comté Franche-Comt6 dishes to to be be round The most most làmous famous dishes The or red red white or fish with with white from freshwater freshwater fish stews made made from are fish are fish Slews very in wine, cooked very wine, cooked herbs; meal meat braised braised in wine, onions onions and and herbs; wine, juices; preserve ail all the the meat meat juices; to preserve casserole to slowly in in aa covered covered casserole slowly jugged hare hare àd /ala fi'anc-comlOise; pike quenelles quenelles of of Vesoul; Vesoul; jugged pike franc-comtoise; 391 391

FRANCILLON SALAD SALAD FRANCILLON yellow wine The yellow wineisismade made from fromthe grape.The theSavagnin Savagningrape. The The distinctive nutty f1avour jaune) demands (gotit de flavour(goût dejaune) demands strictly strictly distinctive nutty controlled and highly specialisod methods of vinification. controlled and highly specialised methods of vinification. fermentation, and conservation. conservation.The The best yellow wine best yellow wine isis fermentation, and that of Chfl teau-Chalon. tha! of Château-Chalon. Straw wine wine isisso-called so-called because grapes are because the the grapes aresun-dried sundried Straw on straw mats mats before pressed. before being being pressed. on straw The Jura appellations appellationsare: are: The Jura Yellow wines. wines. Arbois, Arbois, Côtes C6tes du du Jura, Jura, Château-Chalon, Chdteau-Chalon, Yel/ow Etoile. Étoile. Straw wines. wines. Arbois, Cdtes du Jura, Etoile. Straw Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Red and rosi wines. Arbois. C6tes du Jura. Red and rosé wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura. While wines. Arbois, C6tes du Jura, Etoile. White wines. Arbois, Côtes du Jura, Étoile. Some well-known well-known liqueurs liqueurs are are also also made made in in FrancheFrancheSorne Comt6. The The kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly well known. Comté. kirsch of Fougerolles is particularly weU known.

Since 1888, 1888, various various laws laws have havedefined defined the thercpression repression of Since of fraudulent practices practices inin the the marketing marketing of goods. Acts of goods. Acts and and fraudulent decreeshave have been, been, and and continue continue toto be passed to protect be passed to protect decrees drink and produce. and food food produce. drink In France, France, from from the the Middle Middle Ages Ages onwards, quality and onwards, quality and ln quantity were were under understrict strict surveillance. surveillance. River ports, markets, River ports, markets, quantity and shops shops were wereail allcontrolled. controlled. Thus Thus in in 1577 1577 Henri Henri III III ordered ordered and all bakers bakers to pair of to keep keep aa pair of scales scales and and legitimate legitimate weights weights inin ail their windows, windows, workrooms, workrooms, and and carts, carts,50 so that that each each eus customer theu tomer might check check the the weight weight of his bread of his bread himself. himself. ln ln the rhe eigheighmight teenth century, century, the the Police Police Code Code added that the addod that thescales scales had had to to teenth be hung hung sufficiently sufficiently high high to preclude the to preclude possibility of the possibility of the the be seller tipping tipping itit with with rus his thumb. thumb. seller Fraudulent practices were severely reprimanded: were severely reprimanded : penalties penalties Fra udulent practices included the the confiscation confiscation of goods, demolition of goods, demolition of of ovens, ovens, aa included fine or or an an amende amende honorable, honorable, and, and, in in the Middle Ages, the Middle Ages, fine public flogging. flogging. public In 1431, 1431, if if aa cookshop proprietor sold cookshop proprietor sold aa cat cat for for aa rabbit, rabbit, ln he was was condemned condemned to go to to go to the the banks banks of of the the Seine Seine in in the the he part of busiest part of the the day day and and shout shout an an apology apology to to the the crowd crowd busiest while throwing throwing the the offending offending cat cat into the the river. river. The The butchers butchers while were forbidden forbidden to pigs nourished to buy buy pigs nourished on human blood. on human blood. It It were was forbidden forbidden to to sell sell reheated reheated meat, meat, to keep meal to keep meat more more than than was two days days in in win winter and one one and and aa half days days in in summer, summer, to two ter and sell meat meat by by lamplight lamplight or or candlelight candlelight (such (such Iights lights made made it it sell easier for for discoloured, putrid meal discoloured, putrid passed off as meat to to be be passed as rosy easier and fresh). fresh). A A regulation regulation in in 1399 1399 controlled controlled the the time time of of day day and during which which candies candles might might be used. during On22 June 1351 l35l sorne some suspect meat was confiscated confiscated in Ihe the On 22 June master butcher Bardel's shop in in rue Baudet-Saint-Antoine. mas ter butcher Bardel's shop Baudet-Saint-Antoine. The Corporation, Corporation, outraged outraged that one of of their members The that one their members should disgraced himself, demanded thal that he he be shou Id have have disgraced himself, demanded be condemned. He accused as demned. He was was accused as a poisoner poisoner and was taken to the pillory in Les subsequently put to death. pillory in Les Halleswhere Halles where he he was was subsequently paris butchers One hundred One hundred and and twenty-seven twenty-seven bareheaded bareheaded Paris witnessod execution of witnessed the the execution of their their confrire. confrère.

IilUUYCIIr.ON SALAn SALN) - Title Title of of aa Japanese Japanese. salad, salad, the the FRANCILLON recipe for given by for which which was younger Alexandre was given by the the younger Alexandre recipe Dumas in play Francillon in aa play performed at Francillon perfonned at the the ComédieCom6dieDumas Francaise. The The recipe recipe for for this potatoes, this salad, salad, of of mussels, mussels, potatoes, Francaise. and truffies, trufres, will will be be found found under under SALAD. SALAD. and FRANCOLIN Wild bird bird resembling resembling aa partridge, partridge, found found in in FRANCOLIN -- Wild wann countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Its flavour warm countries, especially in Sicily and Greece. Ils f1avour is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared is something like that of partridge (q.v.), and it is prepared in the same same way. in the way.

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-

FRANGIPANE Mixture of of flour, flour, egg yolks, butter, egg yolks, butter, and and FRANGIPANE - Mixture milk, which which isis cooked (cream puB) cooked like like aa chou pvfr) pastry. chou (cream milk, paslry. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. Used in poultry and fish forcemeat. FRANGIPANE CREAM -- Cream Cream used preparation in the the preparation FRANGIPANE CREA.c'\1 used in of different different desserts desserts or or sweets sweets and and cakes, cakes, made made like of like French French pastry uearn (see CREAM). pastry creonl (see CREAM). Ingredients. g. (9 generous 250 oz., cup) sugar, g. 250 g. Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar, 250 (9. o2.,2| c3ns) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs ind 8 egg yolki, (9 oz., 2:\: cups) sifted flour, 4 whole eggs and 8 egg yolks, (2| pints, 3f pints) lf litres pints) milk and flavou-rd If litres (2l pints, :Ji milk boiled boiled and flavoured with with vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., crrp) butter, vanilla, 50 crushed macaroons, 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) butter,

i

a pinch

of salt. salt. a pinch of Method. sugar, sieved Melhod. Put Put the the sugar, sieved flour, Hour, and and salt salt into into a a heaw heavy saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix saucepan with a flat bottom. Add the eggs and yolks. Mix all the ingredients ail the ingredients thoroughly thoroughly and and add add the the milk milk very very gradugradually.. Cook slowly, stirring all the time, for 2 to 3 minutes. ally. Cook slowly, stirring ail the lime, for 2 to 3 minutes. Add the butter and the crushed Add the butter and the crushed macaroons. macaroons. Mix. Mix. FRANKENTAL grape Black also known as FRANKENT AL - Black grape also known as Black Black HamHampurg, and burg, originating originating in in Germany. Germany. The The fruit fruit is is very very large juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. large and juicy, and is often included in gift baskets of fruit. FRASCATI - See }'RASCATISee RESTAURANTS RESTA URANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS. DA YS.

ITREEZINGFREEZING See See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF FOOD. FRENCH CULINARY FRENCH CULINARY AND AND TABLE TABLE SLANG. SLANG, ARGoT ARGOT

-

DE DE

cuIsINE CUISINE ET ET DE DE TABLE TABLE - Slang, wrote Gaston Esnault Esnault in his his Dictionnaire Dictionnaire historiEte historique des des argots argots frangais français (Larousse) is is 'a

collection collection of of non-technical non-technicaJ spoken words that appeal to to aa social group. The The group group - corporative, corporative, schoolboy, schoolboy, fashionfashionsocial group. able able society society -- is, is, he he specifies, specifies, a more more or or less less coherent one. one, adding, adding, 'Slang 'Slang varies varies from from profession profession to to profession'. profession'. ItIt isis therefore therefore only only right right and and fitting fiuing that that the the culinary culinary proprofession fession should should have have its ils own own brand brand of of slang. slang. The The table table is is la la carante. caran te. Then Then the the food, food, in in other other words words /a la fripe, fripe, la la crofite, croûle, k la briffe, briffe, h la cuistance, cuislance, Ia la bdquetance, béquelance, lala jaffe, jaffe, Ia la graine, graine, la la tortore, IOrtore, la la daronge, dnronge, Ie le frichti frichti arrives. arrives. Everyone Everyone has has tm un estome eSlOme (stomach), (stomach), and and one one has has to to eat eat in in other other words, words, claper, claper, croquer, croquer, tortorer, IOrlOrer, cacher, cacher, grainer, grainer, claboter, claboter, clapoter, clapoter, claquer, claquer, gousser, gousser, morfiler, morfiler, morfier, morfier, to to live. live. And And ifif la la jaffe jaffe isis good good then then on on se se morfale, morfale, on onfircote, fircote, on on se se bigale bégaie (one (one enjoys enjoys

(A LA) -- Garnish FRASCATI FRASCATI (À tA) Garnish for for meat meat dishes dishes with with consists consists of of thin thin slices sUces of/ole of foie gras, gras, asparagus asparagus tips, tips, mushrooms, mushrooms, and and (See GARNISHES.) truffies. trumes. (See GARNISHES.)

FRAUDULENT FRAUDù'LENT MISREPRESENTATION MlSREPRESENTATION OF OF F'OOD. FOOD,

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Deception Deception in in the the manufacture manufacture and and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and sale of food products. Fraud occurs when the type and origin of the product food origin of the food product does does not not correspond correspond to to the the name name under which it is sold (for example, pdte de foie gras conunder which il is sold (for example, pâte de foie gras containing other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity taining other than goose or duck liver) or when the quantity goods is not of of goods is not as as specified. specified. (See (See also also ADULTERATION) ADULTERATION.) Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has Fraudulence in such matters is nothing new, and it has always been the duty of the authorities to try to uncover it always been the dut y of the authorities to try to uncover it and stamp and stamp itit out. out. When When the the corporations corporations were were in in command command and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no and free trade did not exist, the legislator at that time had no scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to scientific means of investigation and had to limit himself to preventive measures. All secret work was forbidden and preventive measures. Ali secret work was forbidden and consequently all night work was forbidden. Itwas forbidden consequently ail night work was forbidden. Il was forbidden to keep to keep aa variety variety of ofproducts products in in the the same same shop. shop. Distinctive Distinctive trademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manutrademarks and certain symbols were compulsory on manufactured products. factured products. Offenders Offendcrs were were severely severely punished. punished. FRAUDE ALMENTATRE FRAUDE ALIMENTAIRE -

oneself). oneself).

Bread Bread and and wine wine are are placed placed on on the the table table first. firs!. Bread, Bread, or or le le gringue, gringue, I'artifaille, /'artifaille, la la brique, brèque, le le brigetcn, brigetcn, le le brignollet. brignollet. Wine, Wine, or or le le sirop, sirop, lele pivois, pivois, lelejaja, jaja, lelepive, pive, le le tutu, lutu, lele busard, busard, le le picrate, picrate, lele pichtegom. pichtegom. IfIf itit isis aa robust robust red red wine wine itit is is /ele coaltair; coaltair; ififitit isis aa fine fine lightwine, light wine, itit isis lele coulange. coulange. Itlt can can be be rouquin rouquin (red) (red) or or beaujolpif beaujolpif and and will will be be inin aa bottle, boUle, that that isis to to say say Ia la betterave, betterave, la la boutanche, boutanche, lala rouille.If rouille. If itit isis inin litres. litres, itit isis Ielekil kil or or kilo kilo and and on on lelepictera pic/era (it (it will will be be quaffed quaffed with with aa right right good good will). will). IfIfititisisaa bottle botlleof ofchamp champ(Champagne) (Champagne)itit becomes becomes aa roteuEe.It rOleuse. lt isis drunk drunk nin un unguindal, guindai, tm un bennard bennardor or tm unglasse. glasse. The The appetite appetite begins begins with with I'apdro l'apéro (the (the alfa alfa of ofthe the good good old old days I'alfa being days has has gone go ne--l'alfa being the the absinth absinth (la (la verte\ ver le) of oflalaBelle Belle Epoque). Epoque). From From /a la bouillante bouillante (soup) (soup) we we move move on on to to lala 392 392

FRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES NAMES Cond6 certain preparations preparati.ons by by tu certain Condé (A (À ta) la) -- Name N ame given to Feuillet, Condé household household during during the the Feuillet. master mas ter chef chef of o!' the Conde

barbaque or or bidoche, bidoche, le le saciflard saciflard (saucisson), (saucisson), also also called called du du barbaque bits, then then came les les navarins navarins (turnips), (turnips), les les loubiats loubiats (haricot (haricot Dils, beans), then then le le calendo calendo (Camembert) (Camembert) which which is is rm un rAme l'ème beans), (cheese), (cheese), then then le le caowt caoua (coffee) (coffee) which, which, being being black, black, can can also also biffi. At At last last itit isis time bme for for la la consolante, consolante, aa bottle bottle of of be called called biffi. be wine drunk drunk before before leaving leaving (or (or after after the the coup coup de feu). (Slang (Slang wine

restaurant chefs chefs around around 1910. 1910. Taken used by by restaurant used Dictionnaire of of Gaston Gaston Esnault). Esnault). Dictionnaire

Restoration. Restora tion. Conti Conti (A (À h) la) - Name Na'11e given to to several several recipes recipes created created by by the of the the Prince Prince of Conti. Conti. the chefs chefs of But But itit was was the the Princess Princess of of Conti Conti who whc 'invented' 'invented' the the loin loin of of mutton mutton that that bears bears her her name, name, the the famous famous loin loin gourmande gourmandé mentioned de de persil (gourmandised (gourmandised with with parsley) parsley) that that is is mentioned in in le le Bourgeois Kn:lJrC,pnl~ gentilhomme. ,f?,em'lIfl'onlme. Cussy (A ta) - Louis Louis de de Cussy, Cussy, one one of of the the wittiest wittiest gourmets a""rlYlp!C of of the the early early nineteenth nineteenth century century was was prefect prefect of of the palace palace under under Napoleon Napoleon I. 1. and and the the chef chef dedicated dedicated some sorne recipes recipes to to him. him. Duroc la) - V6ry, Véry, who who owed owed much much in in his bis early days days to to Duroc (A ta) . . to the the protection protection of of Marshal Marshal Duroc Duroc and and .... to the love love of of few dedicate a Madame Madame V6ry, Véry, could could hardly hardJy do do less Jess than than dedicate a few recipes to :0 his his benefactor. benefactor. C6sar owe this ta) -- We Frangipane (A l
from the the

FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAMES. NAMES. APPELLATIONS APPELLATIONS CULINAIRES CULINAIRES FRENCH culinary names names is is scattered throughout throughout this this volume. volume. Here Here are are a a few few more. more. scattered list is is far from from complete, and and even even the the facts given here here The list may be be far far from from exact exact since most most of of it il is based based on hearsay. hearsay. may Curnonsky, for instance, had had enormous enormous difficulty difficulty in in finally finally Curnonsky, proving that homard homard dà I'amdricaine l'américaine (and (and not not dà I'armoricaine) l'armoricaine) was created by the the chef chef Pierre Fraysse Fraysse (native (native of of Sdte) Sète) for was his restaurant restaurant called called Peter's, Peter 's, in Paris, Paris, on on his his return from his the other hand, it is still a a mystery who the America. On the whom a maitre maître d'hitel d'hôlel (from (from Paris or MonteSuzette was to whom Suzette crêpes. And was she really dining dining with Carlo?) dedicated the crOpes. of Wales Wales when wh en they were created for her? the Prince of a few more culinary terms: Here then are a Abrantès -- The governor governor of of Paris, Junot, duc d'Abrantds, d'Abrantès, Abrantts

Information of of the the origin of certain certain -- Information

of his time. This was Richard (who had one of of the best chefs of has a variety of chafing dish called after him). him). He created a master. Ia d'Abrantès d'Abranl2s as aa tribute to his master' number of dishes àd la of the Cafe chef of Adolphe Dugl6r6, Dugléré, then then head head chef the Café Anna -- Adolphe famous courtesan Anglais, invented Anna potatoes for the the famolis Anglais, Anna Deslions. Anna called were so called (A la calves' sweetbreads so d) -- The calves' Artois (À ta d') Charles X. invented by the Count of Artois, future future Charles Brillat-Savarin's Aurore -- This was the Christian name of Brillat-Savarin's the Christian gofit dedidedidu goût mother, Physiologie du author of Physiologie the author to whom whom the mother, to cated sorne some recipes. Restauration period of of the the Restauration Bagration the period During the Bagration -- During for this this epoch (and what (Restoration) (Restoration) (and suitable name for what more suitable when French !), the Princess Bagration at its peak !), was at French cuisine was her chef. chef' as her had CarOme as than Marie-Antoine Carême had none none other other than done to to had done he had her, as as he He to her, dishes to certain dishes He dedicated dedicated certain Talleyrand. please the the to please loved to de Pompadour Pompadour loved Madame de Bellevue -- Madame his foreforeof rus palate than that that of finer one one than palate of was aa finer XV; itit was of Louis Louis XV; Bellevue. Sorne Some bear, of Bellevue. chdteau of owned the château She owned Louis XIV. XIV. She bear, Louis chdteau; the château; of after the were called called after devised were recipes she she devised the recipes of the sorne herself. some after after herself. for dishes dishes Bénédictine, Name for carm6lite -- Name B6nedicting chartrcuse, carmélite cell. prepared in aa monastic monastic cell. have been been in prepared as they would have as they mass Partridge inside aa mass are cooked cooked inside pheasant, for for example, example, are or pheasant, Partridge or paper. Recipes Recipes of in paper. herbs, or even wrapped in or herbs, of vegetable or headings. the "n'nrt""·i,,ltp appropriate !l',-,a'':'llJ,'''''. under the are given under young rabbits rabbits àd lala Berry (A la) h) -- The dish of fillets of young Duchess Berry its creation greedy and scandalous Duchess the greedy and scandalous to the Beny owes owesits creation to of Regent. of the the Regent. daughter of favourite daughter of Berry, Berry, favourite Bourdaloue shop, at the the shop, (A la) of aa pdtissier at Invention of ta) -- Invention Bonrdaloue (À la rue situated inin rue which was was (and still is) situated la Belle Belle Epoque which original its original by its specialities The "I.J\" Bourdaloue, .... '.~""''-''' devised by Bourdaloue, Paris. The owner there today. today. sold there are still still sold owner are Bresolles valet by the the valet the battlefield battlefield by on the invented on Ragofit invented Bresolles -- Ragoût of War. Years' War. Seven Years' the Seven during the Brezolles during Marquis of of Brezolles the Marquis of the Cardinal man ifif ever ever discerning man Mazarin,aadiscerning was Mazarin, ta) -- IlIt was Cardinal (À G la) there us named. named. thus thedishes dishes th inspired the was one, one, who who inspired there was (and preparations (and Chantilly given to of pn:parat:i0l1s number of to aa number Name given Chantilly -- Name in he when he name) by Vatel, when particular to of this this name) cream of to the the cream in particular was household. to the theCondé Cond6 household. masterchef chef to was master pois petits pois years,the Clamart great many the petits (A la) many years, For aagreat ta) -- For Clamsrt (À ea ten inin Paris, from the the came from particularly atat Court, Court, came and particularly Paris, and eaten market suburbs. gardens of thesuburbs. ofClamart Clamart inin the market gardens 393 393

FRIANDISE (mentioned by diocese of of Belley Belley (mentioned by Brillat-Savarin) Brillat-Savarin) who was who was diocese particularly fond (warblers), He fond of of becfigues becfigues (warblers). great Hewas wasaagreat particularly gourmet. gourmet. (A la) gourmandise of Reine (À h) -- The Thegourmandise gave ofMarie Marie Leczinska Leczinska gave Reine birth toto aa whole (vol-au-vent, chicken, whole host host of of recipes recipes(vol-au-vent, chicken, birth consomm6s) aIl all with with the the na name reine. consommés) me àitlalareine. potage àd lala reine But the the creator creator of of potage reine was was Margot, Margot, the thefirst first But wife of Henry IV. of Henry IV. wife (A la) Robert (À la) -- The Thesauce saue Robert Roberl which which Rabelais Rabelais made made Robert such aa fuss fuss about about was, was, itit seems, seems, invented invented by by Robert, Robert, chef chef to to such the Abbot Abbot of of Saint-Germain-des-Prés Saint-Germain-des-Pres in in the the Middle Middle Ages. Ages. the Ought we really to Salmis -- Ought to attribute we really attribute the the salmis salmis de de bécasse bicasse Salmis (salmis of of woodcock) woodcock) to to the the Prince Prince of of Salm, Salm, who who used used to to (salmis lodge in in what what isis now now the the Palais Palais de fu lala Légion Ldgion d'honneur? d'honneur? No. No. lodge Salmis isis aa Gascon Gascon ellipsis ellipsis of of two two Latin Latin words: words: salsa salsa Salmis (feminine of of salsus, salsus, which which means means salted salted and and isis the root of of the the root the (feminine 'sauce') and word 'sauce') (feminine of and mista participle mista (feminine past participle of mistus, mistus, past word of misceo which means misceo which means 'mixed 'mixed up') up') 50 so the the exact exact definition definition of of of salmis isis aa 'mixed 'mixed up up sauce'. sauce'. salmis Soubise (À ta) -- Sauce Sauce invented invented by by Constant, head chef Constant, head chef of of Soubise 1A la) the Soubise Soubise household. household. the (A la) Villeroy (À ta) -- Chickens Chickens àd la la Villeroy Villeroy are are attributed attributed to to Villeroy the Marshal Marshal of of Luxemburg, Luxemburg, Duchess Duchess of of Villeroy. Villeroy. the (A la) Xavier (À ta) -- Soup Soup invented invented by by Louis Louis Stanislas Stanislas Xavier Xavier of of Xavier France, Count Count of of Provence, Provence, the the future future Louis Louis XVIII. XVIIL France,

ancientNorman Norman faim-valle whichmeant ancient meantfaim cheval,oror faim-vallewhich faimdedecheval, sudden hunger. hunger. aasudden

FRINOT - -See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. FRINOT FRITOT - -Type Typeof offritter fritter made madewith piecesof FRITOT poultry, withsmaU smallpieces ofpoultry, lamb ororveal vealsweetbreads, sweetbreads, brains, lamb brains,ororcalves' heads. calves'heads. juice piecesof Soak the thepieces Soak ofmeat meatfor for3030minutes minutesininoil, oil,lemon lemon juice (or vinegar), vinegar),and (or and mixed mixedchopped choppedherbs. herbs. Dip Dipininaalight lightbatter batter fryinindeep andfry deepfat. fat. and Drain the the fritters. fritters. Season garnishwith Drain Seasonwith with salt saltand andgarnish with parsleyand fried parsley quarteredlemons. fried andquartered lemons.Serve Servewith withaasauce, sauce, Tomato. usually Tomato. usually number of given under AA number of recipes recipesare aregiven underthe theheading headingFritot Fritot inin (seeHORSthe the section section devoted devoted toto Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre (see HORSD'(EUVRE). D'ŒUVRE). piecesofmeat Small Small pieces poultry prepared ofmeat and preparedàdlalaVilleroi andpoultry Villeroiare are alsocalledfritots. called, fritots. also

FRITTER. BEIGNET FRITTER. BErcNEr - - Food Fooddipped dipped inin batter batter and andflied fried inin smoking-hot, deep (lard, oil, smoking-hot, deep fat fat(lard, oil, clarified clarified butter, butter, or orvegetable vegotable fat).The The batter fat). batter for for coating coating varies varies according according totothe the nature natureof of (See BATTER.) the the food. food. (See BATTER.) Another variety variety of Another of fritter fritter isis made paste like made of of aa paste like chou chou pasteand paste and called called soufflé petsde souffi6 fritters fritters or or pets de nonne. nonne. A A third third variety variety isis made made ofyeast of yeast dough, dough, similar similar toto brioche brioche (soe Viennafritters dough dough (see Viennafritters below). below). Cream Cream fritters fritters and and fritters fritters made (see made of of waffle waffie batter batter (see WAFFLE), WAFFLE), can can be (q.v.) for be used like croustades used like croustades (q.v.) garnishes. for garnishes.

FRIANDISE -- French French word word for for aa delicacy delicacy wh when referring to to FRIANDISE en referring pdtis s erie or or sweetmeats. pâtisserie This word word isis often often used used to to describe describe iced iced petits fours. This fours.

FRITTERS FRITTERS FOR FOR HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE AND AND SMALL SMALL ENTRÉES. ENTREES. BIEGNETS BIEGNETS POUR PoUR HORS HoRs D'oœUVRE D'oGUVRE ET ET PETITES PETITES ENTRÉES eNrn6ns -- These These fritters, fritters, the the recipes recipes for for which given which are are given below, below, should should be be served with tomato served with tomato or or other othersauce. sauce.

(topside) of FRICANDEAU -- Rump Rump (topside) of veal. veal. Also Also describes describes aa FRICANDEAU (noix de dish made made of loin loin of veal veal (noix de vel1u) veau) larded, larded, braised, braised, or or (see VEAL, VEAL, Noix Noix de de veau). roasted (see to slices slices or or fillets of The name is also applied to of fish, fish, mainly mainly (tuna fish), those sturgeon and and fresh fresh tunny tunny (tuna those of sturgeon fish), braised braised in in aa fish stock. fish FRICASSEE - In modern French usage, usage, the FRICASSÉE fricassée wordy'icassie the word applies almost exclusively to aa method of preparing poultry poultry applies in a white sauce. In earlier times denoted various times the the term denoted various kinds kinds of of stew stew made with white or brown stock, not only from poultry but but from meat, fish and vegetables. vegetables. A A fricassde fricassée of poultry is is prepared in me in very much much the the sa same way way as a blanquette blanquelle (q.v.), a dish usually made with veal veal or lamb. Fricass6e Fricassée of of chicken chicken ià la la berrichonne. berrichonne. FRICASSÉE r'ntcassfr DE ne poul,Er (9 oz.) POULET A À r,l LA nennrcHoNNE BERRICHONNE - Brown in butter 250 g. (9 250 g. new carrots, whole if they they are small, quartered if they new carrots, are small, they are are large. Remove them them from the the pan and brown the tbe pieces pieces of a jointed Add,2+ dl. (scant I pint, jointed chicken in the same butter. Add generous generous cup) boiling boiling water water or white stock, the car rots and carrots a bunch bunch of mixed mixed herbs. herbs. Season. Season . Cover Coyer and and cook cook for for 30 minutes. minutes. Pour off the the chicken chicken stock, add add to it 5 tablespoons (6 Pour tablespoons) tablespoons)cream egg yolks with a a small pinch of cream and 2 egg fine fine sugar sugar and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. vinegar. Mix well well and pour the sauce over over the the chicken. chicken. sauce Warm the the chicken chicken in in the the sauce sauce without without bringing bringing it to the Warm boil. boil. Fricassée p6rigourdine périgourdine -- Name Name given given in P6rigord Périgord to the the Fricassee vegetable5 of of aa pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. Before Before this trus is is quite quite cooked, the vegetables drained, sliced, sliced, browned browned in butter butter vegetables are are removed, removed, drained, vegetables or oil, oil, sprinkled sprinkled with with flour, flour, moistened moistened with with a little stock, or put back back in in the the pot-au-fea pot-au-feu to to finish finish cooking. cooking. and put and The same same name nameisis given given to to aa mixture mixture of ofaromatic vegetables The aromatic vegetables cooked in in butter butter or or oil oil with with garlic garlic and and ham. ham. This This fricassde fricassée cooked various soups. soups. used in in various isis used

2t

t

FOllers Fritters

Anchovy Anchovy fritters 1. I. BEIGNETS nnrcxsrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors -- Trim Trim and and desalt desalt anchovy fillets. fillets. Spread Spread them them on on one one side side with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg rubbed through egg yolks rubbed through aa sieve sieve and and mixed mixed with with aa little little butter and parsIey. Roll butter and chopped parsley. Roll them them up, up, dip dip in in aa light light deep-fry. Garnish with fried batter, and deep-fry. parsley. Garnish with fried parsley. II. BEIGNETS Anchovy fritters fritters II. Archovy ssrcxnrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors -- Desalt, Desalt, trim, trim, and dry dry anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. Sandwich them, two two by two, with and Sandwich them, by two, with pounded fish fish forcemeat forcemeat flavoured flavoured with with anchovy finely pounded finely anchovy purée and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip pur6e and mixed with a little chopped parsley. Dip into into batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. batter Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS D'ARrrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - See Artichoke HORS- See HORSD'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'Guyre. hors-d'œuvre. D'(EUVRE, BEIGNETS D'AUBERGlNES Peel the Aubergine fritters. Aubergine fritters. BErcNErs D',q.uBERcrNrs - Peel the cut into into slices, slices, and and marinate marinate for for 1I hour hour in in oil, oil, aubergines, cut aubergines, lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in in batter batter lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. and

FRINGALE (Hunger (Hunger pang) pang) -- This This word word comes cornes from from the the FRINGALE

394 394

FRITTER FRITTER divide div ide into into small small pieces. pieces . Roll Roll into into balls' balls. Dip Dip in in batter batter and deep-fry. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-A DUxELLES Egg Eggfritters frittersiàlaladuxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS À LA DUXELLESI teaCut Cut hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs into into slices. slices. Spread Spread them them with with 1 teatwo. Dip spoon spoon duxelles duxelles (q.v.). (q.v .). Sandwich Sandwich them, them, two two by by two. Dip them them in in batter batter and and deep-frY. deep-fry. D'oEUFs A I-.1 Rnnts Egg la reine. reine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS D'OEUFS À LA REINE -Egg fritters fritters irà la omelette. Make a flat, thin Make a fiat, thin omelette. Allow Allow itit to to cool, cool, and and then then cut cut itit lozenge-shaped pieces. into square or or .Iozenge-shaped pieces. Put Put I1 tablespoon tablespoon into square (see chicken chicken pur6e purée bound bound with with thick thick Veloutt Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies trufHes on on each each piece. piece. Sandwich Sandwich the the pieces, pieces, dip dip in in batter batter and and deeP-frY. deep-fry. PolssoNs DE netcNnrs fish). FiS Fish fritten fritters (pickled (pickled or or smoked smoked fish). BEIGNETS DE POISSONS Ir.r.l,RINEs, MARINÉS, rurraf,s FUMÉS -- Prepare Prepare as as described described for for Anchovy Anchovy fritters fritters as 1L 1/. Fritters Fritters can can be be made made of of different different kinds kinds of of fish, fish, such such as salmon, smoked oil, in sardines eel, smoked fillets, herring herring fiUets, smoked eel, sardines in oil, smoked salmon, tunny tunny in in oil, oil, etc. etc. DE PoISSoNs, Fislr, Fish, shelffish, shellfish, and and seafood seafood fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE POISSONS, MER - Recipes for DE FRUITS coQLnLLAGEs, cEs, cnusrn CRUSTACÉS, COQUILLAGES, FRUITS DE MER - Recipes for fish fritters various various kinds kinds of offish fritters will will be be found found under under the the heading heading HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. DE FoIE GRAs A Foie Foie gras gras lritters fritters ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE FOIE GRAS À pancakes. Spread unsweetened thin Make L'ANCIEN].iE L'ANCIENNE - Make thin unsweetened pancakes. Spread diced truffies (see PURÉE) PUREE) mixed gras purie with Foie mixed with with diced trufHes with Foie gras purée (see scrolls. and and flavoured flavoured with with brandy. brandy. Roll Roll the the pancake pancake into into scrolls. deep-fry' and deep-fry. light batter pieces. Dip Dip in 2 or 3 pieces. or 3 Cut these Cut these into into 2 in light batter and DE FoIE GRAS AUX BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS gras and and truffie Foie gras FOIE GRAS AUX Foie truffle fritters. gras and and (q.v.) of cooked foie of cooked salpicon (q.v.) Prepare aa salpicon rnurrps -- Prepare foie gras TRUFFES Madeira-flavoured concentrated' Madeira-ftavoured with concentrated, blended with truffies, blended trufHes, into Divide into to cool. cool. Divide Allow to (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Allow sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Demi-glace very a pig's or caul piece of in a each pieces wrap and small small pieces and wrap each in a piece of pig's caul or a very Dip water. Dip in cold cold water. previously soaked soaked in pork, previously salt pork, sfice of of salt thin sUce thin (see sauce (see Pdrigueux semee with Périgueux Serve with deep-fry. Serve and deep-fry. in batter batter and in sAUCE). SAUCE). DE ToPINAMBoURS BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS artichoke fritters. Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem TOPINAMBOURSdeep-fry. and deep-fry. batter, and in batter, dip in marinate, Cook, marina Cook, te, dip PrevIANDES -- PreDE VIANDES DE SALPICONS sALPIcoNS DE BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Meat fritters. Meat or brown, brown, white or sauce, white with aa sauce, blend with and blend pare aa meat salpicon and meat salpicon pare (cooked meat leftmeat leftchosen (cooked meat chosen of meat the type type of on the depending on depending diced poultry). Add Add diced pork, veal, veal, poultry). mutton, pork, beef, mutton, lamb, beef, oults -- lamb, overs allow sheet and and allow metal sheet on aa metal Spread on mushrooms. Spread and mushrooms. truffies and trufHes dip ball, dip into aa ball, pieces, roll roll each each into small pieces, Divide into into small to cool. cool. Divide to deep-fry.. and deep-fry in batter batter and in vEAU- DE VEAU DE FRAISE FRAISE DE BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS mesentery fritters. Calf's mesentery Calf's (q.v.), drain, court'bouillon (q.v mesentery inin aa court-bouillon the calf's calf's mesentery Cook the Cook .), drain, prepare like llke Brainfritters. Brain fritters. and prepare marinate, dry, marina dry, te, and Prepare aa DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIGNoNS- - Prepare BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Mushroom fritters. Mushroom Blend desired.Blend ham ifif desired. diced barn adding diced mushrooms, adding of mushrooms, salpiconof salpicon (see SAUCE), small into small divide SAUCE), div sauce(see Btchamel sauce with Béchamel ide Înto with deep-fry. anddeep-fry. batter, and dip inin batter, pieces, roll roll into into balls, balls, dip pieces, See OYSTERS. OYSTERS. normande -- See fritters àI lalanormande Oyster fritters Oyster Bind'a rERRE - - Bind DEltRRE DEPOMMES PoMMES DE sstcNsrs DE friffersJ.I.BEIGNETS Potato fritters Potato a (see sauce(see Bdchamel sauce potatoes with with Béchamel of boiled boiled potatoes salpicon of salpicon into Divide cold. leave until and dishand leave until cold. Divide into onaadish Spread on SAUCE).Spread SAUCE). and light batter batterand Dip ininaalight into balls. balls. Dip piecesand shapeinto andshape smallpieces small deep-fat. fryinindeep-fat. fry Grateoror DETERRE rERRE- -Grate DEPOMMES PoMMEsDE srlcNnrsDE II.BEIG~ETS frittersII. Potatofritters Potato pepper' salt,pepper, withsalt, season with andseason well,and potatoes,dry dryweIl, rawpotatoes, minceraw mince small yolks.Divide Divide into intosmall eggyolks. withegg gratednutmeg. Bindwith nutmeg. Bind andgrated and deep-fry' anddeep-fry batter, and lightbatter, pieces,dip dipininaalight pieces, . salsify, thesalsify, Cookthe DESALSIFIS sALsIFIs- - Cook BEIGNETs DE fritters.BEIGNETS Salsifr fritters. Salsify deep-fry. anddeep-fry batter,and dipininbatter, pieces,marina marinate, littlepieces, cutinto intolittle te, dip . cut Asfor forSpinachfrillers Spinach fritters D'osEILI-E- -As BEIGNETsD'OSEILLE fritters.BEIGNETS Sorrelfritters. Sorre) (seebelow). below). (see spinach Steepspinach o'6plN.rrnos - - Steep sntcl.InrsD'ÉPINARDS frittersI.I.BEIGNETS Spinachfritters Spinach juice,salt, pepper. andpepper. salt,and lemonjuice, oil,lemon minutesininoil, fewminutes leavesfor fora afew leaves batter, lightbatter, dipthem themininlight time,dip leavestogether togetheratata atime, fourleaves Pressfour Press deep-fry. anddeep-fry. and and

Moulds Mould, for for fritters: rrilters: LeJi to right: right.' mushroom, musluoom, star, Sla r. boat, boal. heart, rose rose Left Phot. I'arousse') Larousse) Dehillerin. Phot \(Dehillerin.

HORS-D'(EUVRE, Beeffritters. BEIGNETS DE BoEUFBOEUF- See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, fritters. BEIGNETs Beef Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. cERVELLES DE CERVELLES BEIGNETS DE (lanrb's or Brain fritters or calf's). calf's). BEIGNETS fritters (Jamb's (q.v.)' the brains in court-bouillon (q.v.). D ' AGNEAU , DE VEAU vEAU -- Cook th~ D'AGNEAU. juice, and in oil, oil, lemon juice, marinate in Cut into and mannate small slices slices and into small deep-fry. and deep-fry. chopped in batter batter and parsley. Dip in chopped parsley. DE BRUXELLESBRUXELLES DE CHOUX cHollx DE BEIGNETS DE Brussels sprout fritters. BEIGNETS dip in in drain, dip water, drain, in salted salted water, Half-cook, Brussels sprouts in Brussels sprouts juice, and and lemon juice, oil, lemon in oil, cold marinate in and marinate dry, and water, dry, cold water, deep-fry' chopped and deep-fry. parsley. Dip in batter and Dip in chopped parsley. DE DE CARDONS, cARDoNS, DE Cardoon BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS chard fritters. or chard Cardoon or preand premarinated cooked, marina CARDES ted and chards cooked, or chards cARDEs -- Cardoons Cardoons or pared for Aubergine Aubergine fritters pared as described for as described fritters'. DE CHOUXcHouxBEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Cauliflower broccoli fritters. or broccoli Cauliflower or marinated, flowerets, marinated, Divided into into ftowerets, FLEURS, DE BROCOLIS BRocoLIs -- Divided FLEURS, DE (see below). below). and fritlers (see Mushroomfritters for Mushroom as for and cooked cooked as and marinate, Cook, marina te, and Celery DE CELERI cELERI -- Cook, BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Celery fritters. or Celeriac or Aubergine fritters. prepare for Aubergine prepare as described for as described fritters- Celeriac ordinary be used. used. may be celery may ordinary celery leftChicken DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- Chic ken leftChicken BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Chicken fritters. Marinate slices. Marinate small slices. cut into into small overs, and cut poached or or braised braised and overs, poached and juice, and batter and parsley. Dip Dip inin batter inin oil, chopped parsley. and chopped lemon juice, oil, lemon deep-fry. deep-fry. Cut DEPOULETS PouLErs - - Cut Chicken DE FOIES FoIEsDE BElcNErsDE fritters. BEIGNETS liver fritters. Chicken Iiver add (q.v.), butter,add the .), brown briskly ininbutter, brown bnskly salpicon (q.v livers into into aasalpicon the Iivers with blend with and blend diced butter, and tossed inin butter, also tossed mushrooms,also diced musbrooms, mixture isis (seeSAUCE). the mixture When the thick SAUCE). When sauce (see Bichamel sauce thick Béchamel balls. piecesand rollinto into balls. cold, androll small pieces into small cold, divide divide into Dip deeP-frY. anddeep-fry. batter and Dip inin batter chicory, Braisetbe thechicory, Chicory D'ENDIVES - - Braise BEIcNETsD'ENDIVES fritters. BEIGNETS Chicory fritters. minutes for30 30minutes dry , and Marinate for lengthways.Marinate two lengthways. andcut cut inintwo dryweil well, juice,and batterand and parsley' Dip Dipininbatter ininoil, choppedparsley. andchopped lemonjuice, oil,lemon deep-fry. deep-fry. couRGErrES - Courgette DECOURGETTES (zucchini) fritters. BEIGNETS DE fritters.BEIGNETS Courgette (zucchini) As Aubergine fritters. AsAubergine fritters. (q.v.) Egg salpicon (q.v.) Preparea asalpicon D'oEUFs- -Prepare BEIcNETS D'OEUFS fritters. BEIGNETS Eggfritters. (andlean ham, leanbarn, ofofhard-boiled truffies(and andtruffies mushrooms,and hard-boiled eggs, eggs,mushrooms, thick sauce,ororthick ifif liked) Bichamelsauce, thickBéchamel withthick blendwith liked)and andblend Spread Velouté used.Spread beingused. (seSAUCE) meatisisbeing SAUCE) ififmeat Veloutesauce sauce(see then cool,then the allowitittotocool, andallow sheetand metalsbeet themixture mixtureonona ametal 395 395

FRITTER prepare aa Spinachfritters frittersn. II. BEIGNETS srrcNersD'ÉPINARDS o'6prN.e,nos - - Prepare Spinach (seeFORCEMEA FORCEMEAT) putaa thin andput Quenelle forcemeat thin Quenelle T) and forcemeat (see layer on on large large spinach spinach leaves, leaves, previously previously steeped steepedinin oil, layer oil, juice, salt, lemon juice, pepper. Roll salt,and andpepper. Roll up, up, dip dip inin batter, batter, and lemon and deep-fry. deep-fry. Sweetbread fritters (lamb's ororcalf's). fritters (Iamb's calf's). BEIGNETS BETcNETsDE DERIS Sweetbread Rrs D'AGNEAU. DE DE VEAU vEAU- - Braise Braise the thesweetbreads sweetbreadsininaa courtD'AGNEAU. courtbouillon. Marinate Marinate them juice, them for for30 30minutes minutes inin oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, houillon. and chopped parsley. Dip chopped parsley. Dip inin batter batter and anddeep-fry. deep-fry. and Tomato fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DETOMATES ToMATEsCut tomatoes tomatoesinto Tomato - Cut into quarters, remove remove seeds, seeds, marinate, marinate, dip dip in in batter, batter, deep-fry. quarters, deep-fry. Tongue fritters (ox or fritters (ox or calf's). calf's). ,BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE Tongue DE LANGUE LANGUE DE DE BoEUF, DE DE VEAU vEAU -- Cook Cook and and cool cool the the tongue tongue and BOEUF, and cut cut into into small slices. slices. Marinate, Marinate, dip dip inin batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. small Trufre fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DETRUFFES TRUFFES -- Cut Truffle Cut raw raw truffles truffies into into thick slices slices and and steep steep in in brandy brandy with pepper, and thick with salt, salt, pepper, and spices. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. spices. Vegetable-marrow (squash) (squash) fritters fritters- See Vegetable-marrow See HORSHORSD'(EUVRE. Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre. D'ŒUVRE, Vine tendril tendril fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE VRILLES vRrLLEs DE Vine DE VIGNE vrcNn -- Steep Steep the tendrils tendrils in in oil, oil, lemon, lemon, salt, salt, and pepper. Taking and pepper. the Taking aa few few at at time, dip dip in in ba batter and deep deep fry. fry. aa time, tter and La La marchande marchande de de beignets. beignets. Painting Painting by byGerard Gerard Dou Dou

(DESSERT) FRITTERS. SWEET (DESSERT) FRITTERS. BEIGNETS SWEET BEIGNETS D'ENTREMETSD'ENTREMETS _ Acacia blossom blossom fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS D'ACACIA D'AcACrA -- Cut Acacia Cut off off the the stalks, sprinkle sprinkle the the bunches bunches of of blossoms blossoms with pour stalks, with sugar, sugar, pour little rum rum or or brandy, brandy, and and leave leave to over aa !ittle to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dip in batter batter and and fry fry in deep, deep, sizzling-hot sizzling-hot fat. Dip Drain, sprinkle fat. Drain, sprinkle with sugar and and serve serve on paper doyley. on aa paper doyley. with poMMEs - Core Apple fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS DE DE POMMES Apple the apples apples and and - Core the peel them. them. Cut Cut them them across across in in slices slices about peel about 55 mm. mm. (t $ inch) thick. Steep for for 30 minutes in thick. in brandy, kirsch or or rum. Drain, dip in in batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, put put on dip on aa baking baking tray, fine sugar, sugar, and glaze in and glaze sprinkle with fine in aa very hot hot oyen. oven. Apricot fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETS D'ABRICOTS D'ABFJcors -- Halve the apricots Apricot and steep in and liqueur. and in sugar and Finish cooking as as described described in in the the recipe Finish recipe for for Crystallised fruitfritters fruit fritters (see below). peel the Banana fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE BANANES - Peel the bananas and divide in half lengthways. Steep in sugar and and liqueur. Finish as Finish as described described in ir: the the recipe fruit recipe for for Crystallised fruit fritters (see below). Blossom Blossom and flower fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE FLEURS - Divide acacia, elder, eider, and marrow blossoms, blossoms, lilies and violets. violets, into bunches, bunches, or, depending on their nature, snip off stalks and separate into into petals. petaJs. Steep Steep in in sugar sugar and and liqueur liqueur for for 30 30 minutes, minutes, and and finish finish cooking as as describod described in the recipe for Acacia ssom frit ters. Acacia blo blossomfritters. Cherry Cherry fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE cERrsEs CERISES - Stone the cherries. cherries. Steep them them in in sugar sugar and und kirsch kirsch or cherry cherry brandy. brandy. Finish Finish as as described in the the recipe recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see below). below). Cherry Cherry soufl6 soufflé fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS sourrrns SOUFFLÉS AUx AUX cERrsES CERISES Make Make the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Souffid Soufflé fritters ,I1 (see (see below). below). After After cooking, cooking, garnish garnish with with stoned stoned fritters cherries cherries cooked cooked in in syrup syrup combined combined with with aa little !ittle cherry cherry jam jam and and flavoured ftavoured with \Vith kirsch. kirsch. Cheshut Chestnut fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE MARRoNS MARRONS -- prepare Prepare vanillavanillaflavoured Chestnut purie purée (see (see CHESTNUT). CHESTNUT). Taking Taking pieces pieces fiavoured Chestnut the of aa walnut, walnut, wrap wrap them them in in leaves leaves of of unleavened unleavened the size size of bread bread (Matzos) (Matzos) dippod dipped in in water. water. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Fresh Freshfruit fruit fritters fritters (see (see below). below). Cold Cold fritterg fritters, called ca lied Krapfuns. Krapfuns. BErcNErs BEIGNETS FRorDs, FROIDS, Drrs DITS KRArFUNS KRAPFUNS -- Prepare Prepare and and deep-fry deep-fry the the fritters fritters as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Viennafritters Vienna fritters (see (see below). below). As As soon soon as as they they are are cooked, cooked, drain drain them them and and drop drop into into aa hot, hot, light light syrup, syrup, flavoured ftavoured as as desired. desired. When Wh en thev they are are well weil steeped, steeped, strain strain and and serve serve cold. cold.

prepare aa Custard Creant Creanr fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE or CRÈME cnirr,m -- Prepare Custard cream MS). Spread (see CREA crecvn (see CREAMS). Spread on on aa buttered metal baking buttered metaJ baking sheet inch) thick. sheet in in aa layer layer 22 cm. cm.(! thick. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Qinch) Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish off off as as described described in in the the recipes recipes for f or Crystallisedfruitfritters C r y s t all is e d fru it fri t t er s or Fr e sh fr uit fr i t t e r s (see or Freshfruitfritters (see below). below). Cream Cream fritters fritten are are sometirnes sometimes coated coated with with egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs before before frying. frying. In In that that case go into case they they go into the the category category of of croquettes. croquettes. They They are are also also called called fried fried creams. creams. Fritters Fritters ài la la créole. creole. BEIGNETS BETcNETS À A LA ra CRÉOLE cnforr -- Slit Slit and and stone stone dates, dates, and and stuff stuff them them with with sweetened sweetened rice rice mixed mixed with with finely finely chopped chopped orange peel and orange peel and flavoured flavoured with with Curaçao. Curagao. Wrap Wrap each each date date in in aa very very thin piece of thin piece Vienra fritter of Vienna fritter dough. dough. Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Viennafritters Viennafritters (see below). Fritters ài la prepare la Creppazi. Creppazi. BEIGNETS BETcNETs À A LA r,c, CREPPAZI cREppAzr -- Prepare large, large, thin, sweet (see CRÉPE). sweet pancakes (see CREPE). Coat Coat with with aa light iigtrt layer of French pastry cream (see CREAMS) uearn (see CREAMS) ftavoured flavoured with with shed macaroons. kirsch and and mixed mixed with with cru crushed macaroons. Put the the pancakes pancakes on Put on top top of of each each other other until until the the layer layer isis about inch) thick. (* inch) about 55 mm mm (t thick. Cut (2-inch) square Cut into inro 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) s[uare dip in batter and pieces, dip in batter and finish finish as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Freshfruitfritters Fresh (see below). below). fruit fritters (see Crystallised fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS Crystallised fruit fruit fritters. FRUrrs GLACÉS crlcfs -Cut up up peeled peeled apricots, apricots, pineapple, peaches, pears, Cut pineapple, peaches, pears, and and apples, into into slices. apples, slices. with sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with with brandy, brandy, kirsch, kirsch, rum, rum, or Dust with or other liqueur, liqueur, and and leave leave to to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, any other in batter, balter, and and deep-fry deep-fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot fat. fat. dry, dip in Drain, dry dry in a a cloth, cloth, arrange arrange on on a a baking baking tray, tray, sprinkle Drain, sprinkle with fine fine sugar, sugar, and either in in a a very very hot hot oven oyen or or under under with glaze either and glaze grill. a grill. Currant fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE cRosErLLEs GROSEILLES - As Strawberry Currant - As Sftawberry fritters (see (see below) below). fritters Date fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS DE DE DATTES DATTES - Stuff stoned dates dates Date stoned - Stuff with very very thick thick French French pastry pastry crecrn cream (see (see CREAMS), CREAMS), with flavoured with with kirsch kirsch or or some some other other liqueur. liqueur. flavoured Dip in in light light batter batter and and deep-dry. deep-dry. Drain Drain the the fritters fritters and and Dip dust with with fine fine sugar. sugar. dust Fig fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FrcuES FIGUES - Peel Peel and and quarter quarter the the Fig -brandy figs. Steep Steep them them for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in brandy and sugar. sugar. Dip Dip figs. and in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. in Fresh fmit fruit fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE FRUITS FRUITS NON NON GLACÉS _ Fresh GLACES Use cherries, cherries, strawberries, strawberries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, Use tangerines, and and oranges. oranges. Stone Stone and and hull huI! the the berries. berries, and and tangerines, 396 396

FRITTER sweetenSemolina fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS DB DE sEMouLE SEMOULE - Prepare Prepare sweetenSemolina proceed as described in the recipe for Rice ed semolina and proceed

divide the the oranges oranges and and tangerines tangerines into into segments. segments. divide Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and leave leave to to steep steep in in liqueur liqueur for 30 Sprinkle minutes. Drain, Drain, dip dip in in batter, batter, and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, and minutes. sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. sprinkle Fruit jelly jelly fritters fritters I.J. nslcNnrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELAoTs MARMELADES - Spread Spread the the Fruit jelly in in aa thin thin layer layer on on aa moist moist baking baking sheet. Cool. Cut into jelly shapes and and finish finish as as described in in the recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit shapes fritters. fritters. Fruit jelty jelly fritters fritters II. II. snIcNBrs BEIGNETS DE DE MARMELADES MARMELADES - Wrap Wrap the Fruit fruit jelly jelly in in pieces pieces of of unleavened unleavened bread bread (Matzos) soaked in fruit water. water. the recipe for Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters. fritters. Finish as as described described in the Finish Mont-Bry fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS MoNT-BRY MONT-BRY - Prepare sweetenMont-Bry ed semolina semolina as as for for a a dessert dessert and and spread spread it on on a a buttered bu ttered ed metal sheet sheet in in a layer I1 cm. $ (t inch) thick. metal Cool and and cut cut into into small small rectangles. rectangles. Coat Coat with with thick Cool apricot jam mixed mixed with with a fine salpicon of walnuts and and figs, fine salpicon apricot and flavoured fiavoured with with rum. rum. Dip in batter and and deep-fry. and Nanette fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS NANETTE NANETTE - Cut a stale stale brioche Nanette into slices. slices. Spread Spread with French pastry pastry cream crecan (see CREAMS) with French into mixed with with a a salpicon salpicon of crystallisod crystallised fruit steeped in kirsch. steeped in mixed Sandwich the the slices slices and and steep steep in in kirsch. Sandwich Dip in in aa light light batter batter and in the recipe as described described in and finish as Dip Crystallisedfruit fritters or or Fresh Fresh fruit fruit fritters. fritters. for for Crystallised fruit fritters p€cnes -- Divide ripe Peach fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS on DE PÊCHES peaches ripe peaches Peach in half, half, peel, peel, and with sugar rum, or kirsch, rum, and kirsch, sugar and sprinkle with and sprinkle in brandy. Leave to steep in aa cool place for for 1I hour. cool place Leave to steep in brandy. Dry, dip dip in in batter, batter, and the fat. Drain the hot deep deep fat. fry in in very very hot and fry Dry, fritters, put put them them on baking tray, fine sugar, tray, sprinkle with fine on aa baking fritters, and hot oyen. glaze in oven. and glaze in aa hot Pear fritters. in described in as described DE POIRES PoIREs -- Proceed Proceed as BEIGNETs DE Pear fritters. BEIGNETS Applefritters. the recipe the recipe for for Apple fritters. Pineapple the pineapple D'ANANAS -- Cut Cut the BEIGNETs D'ANANAS fritters. BEIGNETS Pineapple fritters. in slices, with sugar, sugar, and and half, sprinkle sprinkle with in half, slice in divide each in slices, divide each slice steep in liqueur. liqueur. steep in Finish for Crystallised Crystallised fruit recipe for in the the recipe Finish as described in as described fruit fritters. fritters. Plum greenhalved greenPRUNEs - Steep Steep halved DE PRUNES fritters. BEIGNETS BEIcNETs DE Plum fritters. gages and or rum, rum, and plums for kirsctt, brandy, brandy, or gages or hour in in kirsch, for 1I hour or plums sugar. sugar. Drain, fat. fry in in deep deep fat. and fry batter, and dip in in batter, Drain, dip Drain glaze in tn aa sugar and and glaze with fine fine sugar Sprinkle with Drain the the fritters. fritters. Sprinkle hot glazing. prepared without without glazing. also be be prepared hot oyen. They may may also oven. They Plum PRUNES ÀA DE PRUNES BEIGNETs DE I'agenaise. BEIGNETS fritters à l'agenaise. Plum fritters L'AGENAISE - Soak greengages in and in liqueur liqueur and halved greengages stoned, halved L'AGENATSE - Soak stoned, sugar, fruit again, again, and and whole fruit to make make whole together to stick them them together sugar, stick coat puree. Dip fry plum purée. in batter, batter, fry Dip in coat with with kirsch-fiavoured kirsch-flavoured plmn in with fine fine sugar. sugar. fat, and and sprinkle sprinkle with in deep deep fat, Polenta sweetened DE POLENTA PoLENTA -- Using Using sweetened BEIcNETs DE fritters BEIGNETS Polenta fritters. polenta (see below). prepare as below). polenta cooked as Rice Rice fritters milk, prepare cooked in in milk, frilters (see Raspberry Remove DE FRAMBOISES FRAMBoISES - Remove BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS Raspberry fritters. stems, little kirsch. kirsch. Drain, Drain, sprinkle with with aa little and sprinkle ligbtly, and stems, sugar sugar lightly, dip with Drain, sprinkle sprinkle with hot fat. fat. Drain, fry in in very very hot and fry dip in in batter, batter, and sugar, and serve. sugar, and serve. Rice rice, as sweetened rice, as DE RIZ Rz -- Prepare Prepare sweetened fritters BEIGNETS BEIGNETs DE Rice fritters. for tin, flat tin, on aa fiat layer on in aa thick thick layer Spread in for aa dessert dessert course. course. Spread and pieces. Dip and finish finish light batter batter and Dip in in light small pieces. into small and cool. cool. Cut Cut into off as described fritters. for Cream Creamfritters. recipe for the recipe in the offas describd in Rice DE RIZ Rtz FOURRÉS rounnfs BEIcNETs DE fillings. BEIGNETS various fillings. fritters with with various Rice fritters - Prepare preceding recipe, recipe, the preceding in the as described described in the fritters fritters as Prepare the -filling jam, jelly jelly or fruit. of various various fruit. salpicon of or aa salpicon filling them them with with jam, Rice Prepare DE RIZ RIz ÀA LA CRÈME cninre -- Prepare BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Rice cream cream fritters. sweetened leave to to flat tin, tin, and and leave layer on on aa fiat in aa layer rice, spread spread itit in sweetened rice, cool. (l| inches) pieces 44 cm. diameter. inches) inin diameter. cm. (lt round pieces cool. Cut Cut into into round Sandwich rather layer of of aa rather together with with aa layer circlets together Sandwich these these circlets thick (see CREAMS). pastry cream ueern (see CREAMS). Frmch pastry thick French Dip andsprinkle sprinkle fat. Drain, Drain, and very hot hot fat. fry inin very Dip inin batter and fry batter and with sugar. with sugar.

fritters. fritters.

Shrove-Tuesday fritters fritters (Alsatian (Alsatian cookery). cookery). BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE ShroveTuesday of MARDI-GRAS - Prepare a a noodle paste with with the addition of MARDr-cRAs

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(1 inch). inch). Cut into a thickness of 5 mm. mm. (t butter. Roll out to a fry in in sizzling sizzling oil, deep fry and deep cutter, and with a a pastry cutter, shapes with cinnamon. Sprinkle with sugar mixed with cinnamon. drain. Sprinkle

( I'arousse) Soufflé fritters (Larousse) Souffi€ friuers

Soufflé (or Pets BEIcNETS SOCFFLÉS sourrr6s nonne). BEIGNETS de nonne). Peb de fritters 1I (or Soufl6 fritters quart) generous quart) (lt pints, pints, generous Mix 1I litre litre (Il - Mix salt, water, lf teaspoons teaspoons salt, (7 oz., g. (7 cup) butter, butter, It scant cup) oz., scant water, 200 200 g. and to the the boil, boil, inin aa bring to and bring (4 oz., g, (4 cup) sugar sugar and oz., t* cup) and 100 100 g. (1 lb. 66 oz., oz., saucepan. 625 g.g. (lIb. ua625 heat. Pour Pour in from the the heat. saucepan. Remove from 5t on saucepan back back on Put the the saucepan well. Put Mix weil. flour. Mix sieved fiour. 5f cups) cups) sieved the mixture until the the mixture spoon until wooden spoon with aa wooden hea! stirring stirring with the heat., cornes and becomes becomes the saucepan saucepan and sides of of the from the the sides away from comes away sJightly one at at aa 12 eggs, eggs, one heat and and add add 12 from heat Remove from slightly oily. oily. Remove time, vigorously. stirring vigorously. time, stirring Drop hot, but but paste,'one at into hot, timg into at aa time, of the the paste,one Drop spoonfuls spoonfuls of not temperagradually increase the temperaincrease the fat, then then gradually not boiling, deep fat, boiling, deep ture the fat. fat. ture of ofthe When the fat fat from the golden, remove them from remove them are golden, the fritters fritters are When the and individual Fill as as indicated indicated inin individual sugar. Fill fine sugar. with fine and sprinkle sprinkle with jams, etc. recipes, etc. creams, jams, various custards, custards, creams, with various recipes, with Soufflé 250 g.g' Prepare 250 sourrrrs -- Prepare sslcNnrs SOUFFLÉS II. BEIGNETS fritters II. Soufl6 fritters (9 the Divide the (see DOUGH) sugar. Divide (9 oz.) paste (see without sugar. DOUGH) without Chou paste oz.) Chou paste after Drop one oneafter walnut. Drop portions the of aa smaIJ small walnut. size of paste into the size into portions the fat. not boiling boiling fat. hot but but not the other other into into hot Cook are crisp crisp fritters are the fritters paste has risen and and the has risen until the the paste Cook until on on aacloth, cloth, golden coloured. Drain well well on coloured. Drain and golden the outside outside and on the and and season. season. Strawberry strawHull the thestrawFRAIsEs - - Hull DE FRAISES BEIGNETs DE fritters. BEIGNETS Strawberry fntters. berries the asdescribed described inin the Finish as in liqueur. liqueur. Finish them in and steep steep them berries and recipe fruit fritters. for Fresh Freshfruit recipe for fritters. Stuffed rounnfs, BEIGNETs FOURRÉS, fritters. BEIGNETS srrprise fritters. fritterg called calledsurprise Shffed fritters, EN recipe therecipe described inin the fritters asasdescribed the fritters Prepare the EN SURPRISE suRpRISE -- Prepare for IL for Souffié Souffii fritters fritters II. Drain, usingaa fill them, them,using and fil! theside sideand sliton on the small slit makeaasmall Drain, make forcing-bag, (see CREAMS), pastry cream CREAMS), crecon(see French pastry with French forcing-bag, with jam, jarn,fruit puree or asindicated. indicated. salpicon, as orsalpicon, fruit purée Tangerine DEMANDARINES. MANDARINES, BEIGNETS DE fritters. BEIGNETS otange fritters. or orange Tangerine or D'ORANGES sections, intosections, oranges into ororanges thetangerines tangerines or Divide the D'oRANcns - - Divide trim described finishasasdescribed andfinish and liqueur liqueur and sugar and steep in insugar trim them, them,steep inin the fruit fritters. for Fresh Freshfruit recipefor therecipe fritters. Vienna vIENNoIs, BEIGNETS VIENNOIS, fritters. BEIGNETS Dauphine fritters. Vienna fritters fritters ororDauphine BEIGNETS (18oz., 4jcups) cups) oz.,4t 500g.g.(18 Ingredients. 500 DAUrHINE - - Ingredients. BEIGNETs DAUPHINE sieved 20g.g. eggs,20 cup)butter, butter, 66eggs, scantcup) oz.,scant 200g.g.(7(7oz., sieved Rour, flour,200 (tGoz., oz., 2 tabletable' 25g.g.(1(1,o2.,2 yeast,2t salt,25 2tteaspoons teaspoons salt, o".,1I cake) cake)yeast, spoons) milk' cup)milk. scant ] cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6(6 tablespoons, sugar, 1I dl. spoons)sugar, (PETS (rurs DE NoNNr) on NOl\'NE)

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t

397 397

FRITTO-MISTO FRlTTO-MISTO Method. Mix Mix the ingredients to paste as the ingredients to make make aa paste asdescribed described Melhod. the recipe recipe for forBrioche Brioche dough, (see DOUGH). dough, ordinary ordinary (see DOUGH). Roll Roll inin the pastry to out the the pastry (|-inch). Place to aa thickness thickness of ofj-cm. Place spoonfuls spoonfuls out i-cm. (k-inch). of the the filling filling indicated: indicated :cream, cream, custard, custard,salpicon salpicon of of fruit, fruit, etc., etc. , of regularly spaced spaced on pastry. Moisten on the the pastry. Moisten the the edges edges of of the the regularly pastry and and cover cover with piece of with aasecond pastry of second piece of rolled-out rolled-out pastry of pastry the same same size and thickness size and thickness as as the first. Stamp the firs!. Stamp out out the the fritters fritters the with aa round round cutter, (2 inches) cutter, about about 55cm. inches) in cm. (2 in dia diameter. Lay me ter. Lay with them on on aa baking baking tray tray covered covered with with aa c10th cloth sprinkled sprinkled with with them flour. Leave Leave to place for to rise rise in in aa warm warm place for 30 30 minutes. minutes. fiouL Drop the the fl'itters fritters into into very very hot hot deep deep fat fat and and cook cook until until they they Drop are weil golden colour. well done done and and acquire acquire aa golden colour. are Drain, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. Drain,

Curried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs ÀA L'INDIENNE r'rNomNlre -- Sauté Saut6 Curried the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter. butter. Serve Serve them them in in aa border border of of curried curried the (see SAUCE) rice, with with Curry poured over. Curuy sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) poured over. rice, Fried frogs' frogs' legs. legs. GRENOUILLES cnrNourllEs FRITES FRrrEs -- Soak Soak the the frogs' frogs' Fried legs in in aa marinade marinade for for 30 minutes, as 30 minutes, for Frogs' as for Frogs' legs legs legs fril/ers fritters (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre), proceed in hors-d'euvre), and and proceed in (see the same same way for that way as as for that recipe. recipe. the The frogs' frogs' legs legs may may also also be be dipped dipped in in flour flour and and fried fried in in the the The usual way. way. usual Frogs' legs legs frilters. fritters. BEIGNETS BErcNErs DE DE GR GRENoUTLLES See Frogs' ENOUILLES -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, la lyonnaise, lyonnaise. GRENOUILLES Frogs'legs cRENourLLEs À A LA r,c, LYONNAISE ryoNNArs -Frogs' legs àt la Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and dip them them in and dip in /louL flour. Sauté Saut6 in in butter butter Season over aa very very high high fla flame. When tbey they are are weIl well browned, add over me. When add (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) finely finely chopped chopped onion onion lightly lightly 22 tablespoons browned in in butter. butter. Sauté Saut6 the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and onions onions together. browned together. parsley. Serve Sprinkle with with choppcd chopped parsley. Serve with with aa sauce sauoe made made by Sprinkle by heating aa little little vinegar vinegar in in the the cooking cooking butter. heating Frogs' legs legs ài la la meunière. meunidre. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs À A LA LA MEUNIÈRE raBuNGnE -Frogs' Season and and flour flour the frogs' legs, the frogs' legs, and and sauté saut6 them them in in butter. butter. Season Arrange them them in in aa serving serving dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped Arrange juice over parsley. Squeeze Squeeze aa few few drops pour drops of of lemon lemon juice over and and pour parsley. on the the cooking cooking butter, butter, which which has has been been heated until until itit turns on brown. If necessary, necessary, add little fresh add aa little fresh butter. butter. Serve Serve at at once. brown. legs àI la la Mirepoix. GRENOUILLES cRENourLLEs À A LA t-A, MIREPOIX MrREpoD( Frogs' legs Season and and flour the the frogs' frogs' legs, legs, and and sauté saut6 in in butter. butter. When Season add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vegetable they are cooked, add mirepoix (q.v.) which has has been slowly cooked cooked in butter mirepoü: butter until until tender. tender. and mix weiL well. To serve serve pour Cook over aa very high flame and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) concentrated meat stock over the mixture and and sprinkle with chopped parsley. the \Vith chopped parsley. Frogs' legs la Mornay. GRENOULLLES cRENourLLEs À A re uonN^a,y -Frogs' legs àt la LA MORNAY Cook the frogs' legs gently in a little white wine, butter, and Cook lemon juice. and dry them with a cio cloth. juice. Drain and th. Serve them on an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined Iined with Mornay Mornay sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and surrounded with with a a border of Duchess potatoes with Morney (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Cover Cover with Morney sauce sauce to pOlaloes (see which the pan Sprinkle with cheese pan juices juices have been been added. Sprinkle and and pour pour on meltod melted butter. Brush Brush the border with beaten egg yolk. Brown in the oven or under the tbe grill. yolk. Brown Frogs' Frogs' legs legs ià la la nigoise. niçoise, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A À u LA NrQorsE NiÇOISE Proceed Proceed as as for for Frogs' Frogs' legs legs d à la la mirepoix, mirepoix, substituting substituting Tomatofondue Tomatofondue dà Ia la nigoise niçoise (see TOMATO) for for the the mirepoix. mirepoix. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs with witb chopped parsley. cRENoUTLLES GRENOUILLES AUx AUX FrNES FINES HERBES HERBES -- Season the frogs' frogs' legs with \Vith salt and pepper. pepper. Dip in flour ftour and saut6 sauté in in butter butter over over a high high flame. flame. When When they they are are cooked and well browned, browned, sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Squeeze Squeeze the the juice juice of of aa lemon lemon over over them them and and poru pour on on the the butter butter in in which which they they have have been been cooked. cooked. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs ià la la poulette. poulette, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A À ra LA pourerre POULEHE -Cook Cook the the frogs'legs frogs' legs gently gently in in aa little litt le white white wine, wine, with with butter butter and and aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Add Add aa small smalt onion onion and and aa bouquet bouql/el garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). As As soon soon as as the add peeled, peeled, sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. the liquid liquid comes cornes to to the the boil, boil, add Cover Cover and and simmer. simmer. Drain Drain the the frogs'legs frogs' legs and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Strain Strain the the stock stock and and boil boil itit down. down. Thicken Thicken with with egg egg yolks yolks and and cream, cream, as as for for Poulette Pou/elle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the frogs' frogs' legs legs and and mushmushrooms rooms back back in in the the sauce sauce and and heat. heat. Add Add Il tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh butter, butter, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and and aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs prepared prepared in in this this way way can can be be served served in in aa pie pie crust crust or or aa vol-au-venl. vol-au-vent. They They are are then then called called timbales timbales or or volvolau-vent au-vent offrogs' of frogs' legs legs dà lalapoulette. poulette. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs sautded sautéed Ià la la provengale. provençale, cnsNoururs GRENOU1LLF,S slur6es SA UTÉES AÀ le LA pnovnNgAlE PROVENÇALE ,- Saut6 Sauté the the frogs' frogs' legs legs in in butter butter or or oil, oil, as Frogs' legs legs dà ld la'lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Add Add aa little Iittle crushed cru shed garlic garlic as for for Frogs' and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley.

(Itelian cookery) FRITTO-MISTO (ItaJian cookery) -- ln In France Franoe this this dish dish isis FRITTO-MISTO 'friture àd /'italienne'. called 'frilure I'italienne'. called prepared from It isis preparcd pieces of from pieces of ca calves' head; brain; brain; spinal spinal Il Ives' head; (of sheep bone-marrow (of sheep and and calves); calves); testicles; lambs' feet; testicles; lambs' feet; bone-marrow rice and and egg egg croquettes; croquettes; fried fried bread; bread; slices slices of ofsaut€ed calves' sautèed calves' rice .liver. '>Iiver. Some are are dipped dipped in in /lour-and-egg flour-and-egg bat batter, others in in egg egg Sorne ter, others and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. They They are are fried fried in in deep deep fat fat or or sautèed saut6ed in in and prepared in butter. Frillo-mislo, Fritto-misto, prepared in this this \Vay, way, makes makes an unusual an unusual butter. and tasty tasty lunchcon luncheon dish. dish. and

FROG. GRENOUILLE cRENoUTLLE -- Web-footed Web-footed amphibian amphibian of of which FROG, there are are about about 20 20 species. species. Among Among those those to to be found in in be found there France are green or are the the green ot common commonfrog, the ruSly rusty or or mule mute frog, France frog, the so-called because the male male has has no no voice-box. voice-box. In In the the United so-called because the United States there there is is aa very very large large species species called called the the bull bull frog or frog or States bellowing frog. Thts creature creature is twice the size of of the the types types frog. This bellowing is twice the size indigenous to to Europe. Europe. indigenous Frog mea!, meat, whicb which is is no no more than aa titbit, titbit, isis easily easily Frog more than digestible. digestible. The frogs frogs eaten eaten in France usually in France come from central The usually come from central Europe. They They are are very Europe. very muscular, muscular, and and plumper plumper than than the the local local varieties, varieties, but but French French frogs, frogs, especially especially those those of of Sologne Sologne and the Dombes, have subtler and the Dombes, have more more delicate delicate flesh flesh and and a a subtler flavour. flavour. The The quality qua lit y of of the the frogs frogs of of the the Dombes Dombes fully fully justifies justifies their more expensive. expensive. their being being more Preparation Preparalion. Skin Skin the the frogs frogs and and remove rem ove the the breast, breast, retainretaining only the legs, ing only the legs, which which alone alone are are edible. edible. Cut Cut off off the the feet. feet. Skewer Skewer the the legs legs and and immerse immerse them them in in very very cold cold water. wateL Change every 2 Change the the water water every 2 hours hours to to whiten whiten and and swell sweU the the flesh. Dry the the legs legs thus thus prepared prepared and and cook cook thern them according according flesh. Dry to one or other of the recipes to one or other of the recipcs set set out out below. below. Usually Usually 33 pairs pairs per per serving serving are are allowed. allowed. Frogs' Frogs' leS legs ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A À r'lNGrArsE L'ANGLAISE -Season Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Flour Flour them them and and dip in egg and breadcrumbs. dip in egg and breadcrumbs. Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them on of Maite Maftre d'h6tel d'hôtel butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComComon a a bed bed of pound pound butters). bUl/ers). Serve Serve with with boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. This This dish dish is is called called dà l'anglaise, l'anglaise, because because this this is is the the name name given given to to food food which which is is dipped dipped in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and then then fried. fried. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs ià Ia la b6chamel. béchamel, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES A À Lt LA sfcnAMH. BÉCHAMEL -Season Season the the frogs' frogs' legs legs with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Put Put them them in in aa pan frying with a little butter and I tablespoon white wine. wine. frying pan with a liltle butter and 1 tablespoon white Cover, and cook cook over over aa high high flame. flame. Cover, and Add Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) mixed mixed with with some sorne fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. Add Add !1 tablespoon tablespoon butter. butter. Frogs' Frogs' legs legs as as a a border, border, au au gratin. gratin, cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES EN EN BoRDUREs, BORDURES, curw6ns GRATINÉES -- Prepared Prepared like like Frogs' Frogs' legs legs d à la la Mornay Mornay (see (sec below), below), but but served served as as aa garnish. garnish. Frogs'legs Frogs' legs in in cream. cream. cRENourLLEs GRENOUILLES AÀLA LA cnh,re CRÈME-- Cook Cook the the frogs' Frogs' legs legs hà la la bdchamel. béchamel. Boil Boil some sorne fresh fresh frogs' legs legs as as for for Frogs' cream and pour pour over over the the frogs'legs. frogs' legs. Boil Boil down down and and serve. serve. cl'eam and 398 398

FRUIT

(Laroasse) Dried fruits (Larousse) Citrus frulls fruits Citrus

Most of commercially. Most are also also extracted extracted commercially. Fruit juices Fruit juices are sterilised by by sorne some means these are excellent, excellent, especiaJly especially those sterilised have considerable food other than They have food value, other than boiling. boiling. They with that that of milk. comparable with pAIN DE DE FRU1TS FRUITs -- Coat aa charlotte mould with with Fruit mould. murld. PAIN jelly (made (made of the the same same fruit as as the the mixture mixture aa thick layer of jelly used in the the centre). to be used centre). mould with aa fruit has set, fill fill the middle of the mouJd When this has (see BA prepared in BAVARIAN CREAM) prepared bavarois mixture (see VARIAN CREAM) any cream. advance but without adding any cream. Coyer Cover with aa layer of jelly. of jelly. Chili Chill on ice. AU VINAIGRE vINAIGRE -- Pour vinegar Pickled Pickld fruits. fruits. FRUITS CONFITS coNFITS AU jars; add glass or add enough enough fine fine sugar sugar to into into gJass or stone stone pickling jars; is sharp sharp without being tum turn the mixture into into aa syrup syrup which which is few weeks the too sour. too sour. Add the the fruit to be pickled. After aa few syrup and and will fruit will be thoroughly impregnated with the syrup for eating. be ready for fruit same as fruit fruit may may be be used used for for the the sa me purpose as Pickled fruit preserved in more commonly served as as aa commonly served but isis more preserved in brandy, brandy, but condiment. Ingredients for l0 people. salad. FRUITS FRUITs RAFRAÎCHIS Rlrnelcrns -- Ingredients Fruit salado for 10 greengages, 3 ripe pears, 22 apples, apples,4 peaches, 66 apricots, 6 greengages, 6 peaches, 4 (4 oz., (4 oz., g. (4 g. (4 raspberries, 100 100 g. oz' bananas, oz., scant cup) cup) raspberries, bananas, 100 g. (mixed), 100 (4 oz., g. (4 grapes (mixed), 100 g. black grapes scant scant cup) cup) white white and and black (+ dl. (t 24 fresh fresh almonds, almonds, 33 dl. seant ail strawberries, 24 scant cup) small cup) sm pint, H or 66 tablespoons tablespoons lf, cups) and/or maraschino, 5 or pint, cups) kirsch and/or fine sugar. peaches, pears, and and cut cut them them Method. Peel and apples apples and Method. Peel the peaches, pieces. Peel and cut cut them them into into strips. strips. the bananas and into little pieces. Peel the greengages and cut them thern up. up. and greengages and cut Stone the apricots and strawAdd two-thirds of the the strawMix ail in aa bowl. bowl. Add this fruit in all this with two-thirds two-thirds of of the Decorate with berries berries and and raspberries. raspberries. Decorate pour on grapes. Sprinkle on the the liqueur. top and grapes. Sprinkle the the sugar sugar on on top and pour properly dish so so that the the various fruits are properly Gentle shake the the dish larger bowl bowl containing containing crushed mixed. Put Put the bowl into into aa Jarger the bowl ice. ice. Leave for for 1I hour. glass bowl (or aa special double Transfer Transfer the fruit salad salad to aa glass the top top of of container). Surround crushed ice. ice. Decorate the Surround with crushed strawberries, raspberries, raspberries, the the fruit salad the remaining strawberries, salad with the grapes, and grapes, almonds. and blanched blanched and and halved almonds. The ingredients The ingredients of of aa fruit fruit salad salad vary vary according according to to the pineapples, season. All kinds kinds of fruit fruit may may be be used, used, such such as as pineapples, season. Ail plums, cherries, oranges, oranges, nectarines, nectarines, mirabelle mirabelle plums, cherries, etc. It may may etc. It also also be be made from from fruit fruit preserved in in syrup. syrup. Instead of sweetening sweetening it with sugar, sugar, syrup syrup may may be poured Instead

liver. (See FROMAGE D'ITALIE -- Dish pig's liver. Dish made made from pig's FROMAGE OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS.) OFFAL FROMAGE In former times, plain ices moulded FROMAGE GLACÉ GLACE -- ln glacd in France. into conical shapes were calJed fromage glacé calledy'omage The na me fromage fromage bavarois The name was used for the the cold cold sweet bavarois was used for made made from from aa mixture of custard and and whipped cream, cream, now called bavarois V ARIAN CREAM). bavarois (see BA BAVARIAN CREAM). grated cheese FROMAGER-To add add grated to aa sauce, sauce, stuffing, cheese to kind of or of dough; or any any kind dough; or or to to sprinkle sprinkle itit over over food food to to be browned in the oyen. oven. The cheeses most commonly used for for commonlv used this purpose are Parmesan Parmesan and and Gruyère. Gruydre.

FROMENTEAU FROMENTEAU -- Variety of table grapes. FRONTIGNAN H6rault district which FRONTIGNAN -- Small town town of the the Hérault has has given its name name to aa heavy type of Muscatel wine.

fruit isis the of any the ovary FRUIT -- BotanicaJly Botanically speaking, speaking fruit ovary of growing plant. In current usage, growing usage, however, 'fruit' refers only to those which may be eaten as dessert. Sorne fact, are are eaten as as vegetables, for for example, example, Some fruits, in fact, pumpkins, marrows, gourds, cucumbers, aubergines, cucumbers, olives, aubergines, pumpkins, tomatoes, tomatoes. etc. ln In terms of calories some of the commoner fruits fruits have calories sorne of the little little food food value, value, except except for for those those with with aa high high starch, starch, oil, or sugar content. However, it is is from fruit that we we get, in a minerals as form which is is readily assimilated, essential minerais as weJl well as because of vitamins. Also, Also, because as ail all the precious health-giving health-giving vitamins. quencher. its water content, fruit is is an excellent excellent thirst quencher. Dried fruit. FRUITS SECS sEcs -- Included under this heading are naturally dry hazelnuts, walnuts, dry fruits fruits such such as as almonds, almonds, hazelnuts, etc., Artfficially dried dried fruits etc., rich rich in in fats fats and and albumen. albumen. Artificially prunes, raisins, raisins, etc.) (apricots, cherries, figs, apples, apples, pears, prunes, cherries, figs, preparation. Ali provide are All these these provide further preparation. are eaten eaten without without further very concentrated nourishment. they are are soaked and nourishment. When they qualities of quite ail cooked, have not not quite all the the qualities cooked, although although they they have fresh fresh fruit, fruit, they they provide aa useful useful substitute. Fruit ices. AI-rx FRUITS FRUITs -- The The basic basic syrup consists ices. GLACES cLAcEs AUX of 4 cups sugar to 2 cups for 5 minutes and cups of water boiled for te density cooled. gives an 18" to of 18° to 22' 22" density of cooled. This This gives an approxima approximate when To this this cold cold syrup syrup when measured measured on on aa saccharometer. saccharometer. To various fruit fruit pulps or juices are added. juices. sucs (rus) DE Fruit juices. FRUITs -- Fruit juices, obtained sucs (JUs) DE FRUITS it, are are by cooking or by by squeezing it, little water, water, or fruit with with aa !ittle by cooking fruit very popuJar popular especially suffering from as drinks for persons suffering especially as feverish illnesses. 399 399

FRUIT FRUIT onto onto the the fruit fruit salad, salad, and and any any liqueur liqueur may may be be used used for flavouring. flavouring. Fruit Fruit salad can be served as a dessert course or

with lightly beaten cream which has beaten fresh cream has been been sweetened with sugar sugar and flavoured fiavoured with calvados. calvados. Fruit Fruit salad salad ià I'occitanienne. l'occitanienne. FRUrrs FRUITS nc.FRAlcHrs RAFRAîcHIS A À L'occITANIENt{s L'OCCITANIENNE - Place sliced pears, black black and white grapes, and Sprinkle with and peeled peeled figs figs cut cut into into slices, slices, in in aa bowl. bowl. Sprinkle sugar and pour on Blanquette Blanquette de de Limoux (q.v.) and and a little brandy. brandy. Surround Surround the the bowl bowl with with ice ice mixed mixed with with aa little kitchen kitchen salt, so that the fruit may be slightly congealed. congealed. Cover Cover with Chantilly Chantilly cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) and decorate decorate with with grapes. Fruit Fruit salad Tsarina (Czarina). FRUrrs FRUITS nepn.llcHrs RAFRAîcHIS rzARrNE TZARINE mixed fruit, whole or sliced, sliced, soaked soaked with sugar sugar and -- Put mixed kummel, on top of a a layer of pineapple ice cream. cream. Cover withChantilly cream(see with Chantillycream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured with with kummel. Decorate Decorate with crystallised violets violets and lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped pieces pieces of of angelica. angelica. Fruit Fruit sauces -- See SAUCE, SA UCE, Dessert Dessert sauces. sauces. Sugar-coated Sugar-coated and marzipan fruit. rnurrs FRUITS pfcursns DÉGUISÉS - Small fruit (strawberries, blackcurrants, blackcurrants, cherries, cherries, gooseberries, gooseberries, fruit (strawberries, plums, plums, etc.), etc.), either fresh fresh or or preserved preserved in in brandy, brandy, coated coated with Fondant Fondant icing (see ICING). lCING). Marzipan fruits are a kind of of petit petit four four (q.v.) (q.v.) made from very thick fruit pur6e purée mixed mixed with with almond almond paste, paste, or sometimes times with with concentrated jam. jam. These These are moulded moulded into the shape of various va rio us fruits and and covered with with caramel caramel sugar.

as as a salad course. course.

Fruit Fruit salad salad ià la cr6ole. créole. FRUITS FRUITS na.rR.q.lcHrs RAFRAîCHIS A À ra LA cn6ols CRÉOLE Macddoine Macédoine of of fruit fruit made made from from bananas, pineapples and oranges oranges finely finely sliced, sliced, sprinkled sprinkled with rum and sugar sugar and left to to stand stand in in ice. ice. It It is is served in in a glass glass bowl bowl (or (or a special special double double container) container) on aa bed bed of of pineapple pineapple ice ice cream. Pour Pour on lightly lightly whipped whipped sweetened sweetened fresh fresh cream cream flavoured flavoured with with rum. Decorate Decorate the the top top with \Vith orange orange segments segments and and blanched pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. Fruit Fruit salad with with kirsch. kirsch. FRUrrs FRUITS RAFRAIcHTs RAFRAÎCHIS AU AU KrRscH KIRSCH Use Use all ail the the fruits fruits in season: season: strawberries, strawberries, cherries, peaches, peaches, apricots, apricots, grapes, grapes, almonds, alrnonds, etc., etc., with with stalks, stalks, stones, stones, skins removed. removed. Some Sorne are are sliced, sliced, others others left left whole. whole. Sprinkle with with sugar, sugar, mix mix without without bruising, bruising, pour pour kirsch kirsch over, over, and and place place in in aa larger larger bowl bowl full of of crushed crushed ice. ice. Instead lnstead of of sugal sugar, the the fruit fruit salad salad may may be be sweetened with with a very very heavy hea vy syrup. syru p. Fruit Fruit salad salad ià la la maltaise. maltaise. FRUrrs FRUITS n.crRAlcHrs RAFRAîCHIS A À ra LA uelrelsr MAL TAISE Mactidoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit made rnade from from oranges, oranges, bananas, bananas, -- Macddoine cherries, cherries, and and pineapples, pineapples, left left to to soak soak with with sugar sugar and and Curagao. Curaçao. Serve Serve in in aa glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double double container container on on a bed bed of of orange orange ice ice cream. cream. Cover Cover with with whipped whipped cream. cream. Decorate Decorate with with segments segments of of orange. orange. Fruit Fruit salad saJad ià la la normande. normande. rRurrs FR L'ITS nnrnq.lcHrs RAFRAîCHIS A À LA LA NoRMANDE NORMANDE -- Make Make aa macidoine macédoine (q.v.) (q.v.) of of fruit fruit from from russet russet or or tart tart apples, app1es, fresh fresh pineapple, pineapple, and and bananas. bananas. Soak Soak this this mixture mixture in in sugar sugar and and Calvados. Calvados. Serve Serve in in aa glass glass bowl bowl or or special special double double container. container. Cover Cover

FRUIT IN IN DIETETICS -- The discovery of vitamins has has highlighted the the importance of fruit in the diet. It must be borne in mind, mind, however, however, that that digestive upsets upsets frequently frequently borne occur when when raw raw fruit fruit is is eaten eaten in in conjunction conjunction with with a meat meat diet. occur

Fruit salad salad Fruit

400 400

FUMET FUMET Jean-Camille FULBERT.DUMONTEIL Jean-Camille FulbeitFu 1be'rtFlJLBERT-DlJMONTEIL Dumonteil Dumonteit was was a a French French writer writer and and aa great great gastronome. gastronome. Born in the the Dordogne Dordogne in in 1830, 1830, he he wrote wrote charming charming Born at at Vergt Vergt in articles articles on on the the art art of of cookery cookery which which were were published published in in the the journals, form form of of a a chronicle chronicle in in various various journals, notably notably the the old old Figaro. Figaro. These These were wcre collected eollected in in one one volume volume under under the the title tille

Fruit Fruit contains contains the the following following elements elements in in variable variable proproportions: portions: Water Water (85 (85 per per cent cent average average for for juicy juicy fruit). fruit). Organic Organic acids acids (principally (principally malic malic and and citric citric acids). acids). Carbohydrates. Carbohydrates. Proteic Proteic substances. substances. Practically Practically no no lipids lipids except except in in olives, olives, almonds, almonds, and and walnuts. walnuts. Mineral Mineral salts. Vitamins. Vilamins. Aromatic Aromatic essences essences (which give each each fruit fruit its its particular particular flavour). flavour).

la la France France gourmande. gourmande.

FUMET FlJMET - Name Name given given to to a a number number of of different different liquids liquids

which which are are used used to to flavour flavour or or give give body body to to stocks stocks and and sauces. sauces. Fumets Fumels are are prepared prepared by by boiling boiling foodstuffs foodstuffs of of one one kind kind or or another anolher either either in in stock stock or or in in wine. wine. or Fumets Fumets should should not not be be confused confused with with essences, essences, extracts, extracts, or concentrates. concentrates. Chicken Chicken ftrmel fumet. FUMEr FUMET DE DE VoLAILLEVOLAILLE - Chicken Chicken broth, broth, made made by by boiling boiling down down chicken chicken stock stock (see (see STOCKS). STOCKS). poultry . This This fumet fumet is is used used to to add add flavour flavour to to various various poultry dishes dishes which which are are served served with with aa sauce. sauce. Stock made Fish Fish frrmet. fumet. FsMEr FUMET DE DE PoIssoN POISSON - Stock made from l'rom the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of fish, fish, the the flesh flesh being being prepared prepared separately. This Titis fish fish stock stock is is very very much much boiled boiled down. down. It Il is is used with with white white wine wine in in the the cooking cooking of of certain certain fish, fish, and and also also special white in in the preparation preparation of of speciaI white or or brown brown fish fish sauces. sauces. For For the preparation preparation of of fishfumer, fish fumel, see sec STOCKS. STOCKS. stock made GIBIER Game fumet. fumet. FUMET FL'MET DE DE GIBIER - Game Game stock made with with down and trimmings the carcases and trimmings of of different different game game boiled boiJed down to to aa concentrated concentrated consistencY. consistency. Thisfumet FUMEr DE Mushroom ftrmet. fumet. FUMET DE cHAMPIGNoNsCHAMPIGNONS - This fumet is is prepared completely reducing almost completely prepared by aImost reducing the the cooking cooking liquid liquid of It is of cultivated mushrooms. of cultivated mushrooms. Jt is used used to to improve improve the the flavour flavour of sauces. certain sauces. PATE. Pit6 fumet- See See PÂTÉ. Pâtéfumetused to enhance TRUFFEs -- Fumet FUMET DE Trufle fumet. Truffle fumet. FUMET DE TRUFFES Fumel used to enhance peelings are are simmered simmered Truffie peelings sauces. Truffie of certain sauces. the flavour flavour of The fumet is usually wine. The Madeira or or any any heavy in Madeira in heavy wine. fumel is usually made made some other other used for are being themselves are when the truffles trufres themselves when being used for sorne purpose. purpose. is This fumet oE LÉG1J1I.!ES rEcurars -- This FUMET DE frrmet. FUMET Vegetable fumet. fumel is Vegetable made from from stock made reducing aa stock prepared by completely reducing almost completely prepared by almost leeks, celery, celery, onions, leeks, as carrots, such as carrots, onions, vegetables aa variety of vegeta bles such etc. etc.

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- A person person who who lives lives exexclusivelyon fruit and vegetables, vegetables, believing believing that that man man should on fruit clusively feed only on that that which can be be eaten in the the natural natural state state in in which it grows. grows. which

FRUITARIAN. FRt;ITARIAN. rnucrvoRE FRUGIVORE

FRUITERY. FRUITERY.

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FRUITERIE, FRUITERIE, rntnrrEnr FRUITIÈRE - Special Special storage place place

fruit. Fruitiire Fruitière is is the the name given given to to a a cheese cheese factory for fruit. usually the mountains lllountains near near pastures. paslures. usually situated in the

Soft part FRlJIT KERNEL. NoYAU NOYAU - Soft pari within within hard hard shell of of FRUIT nut or stone fruit. Fruit kernel liqueur. cniirrlr CRÈME DE DE NoYAUx NOYAUX - Liqueur which Fruit (See LIQUEUR.) has fruit kernels as a basis. (Sec Implement for FRUIT FRlJIT STONE CRACKER. fNovlursun ÉNOYAUTEUR -lmplement for such cracking cracking the stones of of certain fruits, su ch as cherries, cherries, without without completely. crushing them completely.

rnorr{sNrm FRlJMENTY. FROMENTÉE FRUMENTY. flour.

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from wheat Porridge Porridge made made from

FRYING FRYlNG

CULINARY FRYING; CULINARY DEEP FRYING; SEC DEEP See METHODS, SaUlés. Sautis. METHODS,

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pan with long handle, with aa long Po€LE - ShaJlow Shallow pan PAN. POÊLE FRYlNG PAN. handle, FRYING used for frying food. used pan for for roasting and aa pan pan is in shape, and is oval in fish frying pan A fish chestnuts chestnuts is perforated on the bottom. scales, rather sold in in the the fonn form of purple scaJes. FUCIISINE -- Dye sold FlJCHSINE is somesmell. It is in taste and and somewhat somewhat unpleasant in smel!. sweet in wines and for wine.~ and foodstuffs. colouring times used used as as artificial col times ou ring for

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France for the redGADELLE -- Name Name used used in in western France for the called gade n currant, in Normandy. currant, which is called

red pickled tongue. Skin it and cut it quarters. Take a good red slices. Cut 500 g. lengthwise into 6 slices. e. (18 oz.) raw fat ham into calf's udder. thick fingers or use fresh pork fat or calf's thick fingers pluck, and 'Singe, pluck, bone aa medium-sized The The chicken. chicken 'Singe, and bone plump plump chicken, and open it out on a c1oth. half the cloth. Cut away half pieces thus removed removed to breast and thighs. Use the pieces meat of of the breast so little flesh is so ftesh that the skin is line the bird wherever there is that the so that almostthe flesh ftesh may may be be evenly almost showing through, so an appropriate amount amount of spiced distributed. distributed. Season with an (1 lb.) boned g. (1 salt, that is 2 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt per 500 g. flesh. ftesh. half the half the forcemeat on the chicken, and lay half 'Spread half on top, top, making sure that the fat on truffies, trufles, tongue, and and ham fat effect. Season Season lightly with spiced colours present aa mottled mottled effect. salt. Coyer Cover the whole with half the remaining forcemeat and pickled tongue, with and the pickled lay trufles, the fat, layon fat, and on top the truffies, remaining forceCover with with the the remaining aa little added added seasoning. Coyer meat. 'Now fold the chicken back to its original shape, sewing it up with aa trussing needle so that ail all the garnish is contained in the bird, which should be moulded into into a round or slightly oval shape. 'Wrap slices of fat bacon round the chicken. Fold a piece tightly with tying both ends tightly of muslin round both ends round the the whole, whole, tying keep it it in string. string. Tie aa piece of string round the middle to keep shape. 'Brown strips of fat bacon in a casserole. Place the galancarrots, aa large onions, 44 carrots, surround with tine in it and tine in it and surround with 44 onions, parsley and Season with with thyme, and spring spring onions. onions. Season bunch of parsley bunch laure l, basil and 4 cloves. Add the bones of the chicken, and laurel, feet, enough ofveal enough stock or chicken 4 knuckles of veal or 2 calf's feet, to coyer cover the the galantine, then then 1 glass dry dry Madeira broth to Madeira or broth (3 tablespoons) old good wine and and 22 tablespoons (3 good white white wine paper and and brandy. Coyer Cover the whole with a piece of buttered paper high ftame. flame. Then for 3 start to to cook cook over aa high Then simmer slowly for hours and and remove from the stove. galantine out 'An hour out of of the 'An hour later, la ter, carefully lift lift the the galantine Lay itit breast downwards on on aa slightly slightly curved casserole. breast downwards casserole. Lay platter and squeeze squeeze it gently, still still wrapped wrapped in the earthenware earthenware platter muslin, to rem remove moi sture left in it. ove any moisture (8 lb.) weight, 'Cov€r with aa lid and 'Coyer and place on top aa 3| kg. (8 in order to ftatten flatten and spread the chicken. jelly through through aa fine sieve. sieve. Remove Remove aU all fat 'Next, strain the jelly for 15 Clarify by one of the and leave it to 15 minutes. Clarify to settle for JELLY. Y. methods described described under JELL gently with a 'When the galantine is cold, uncover it, dry it gently remove all string. Coyer Cover it very carefully carefully ail all over ove ail cloth, and and rem with aa white glaze.

small town in the Tarn GAILLAC -- The white wines of this small wide reputation. Sorne Some are are sold in Paris as district enjoy aa wide processed like young wines; like Champagne and young wines; others others are are processed or mousseux, according to become perlant, perlant, pitillant, pétillant, or to how become 'bubbly' they are.

(French Government The vineyards of Gaillac Gaillac (French Ofice\ The Government Tourist Office)

poultry or meat, GALANTII{E -- Dish made from from boned poultry GALANTINE meat, pressed into symmetrical shape. shape. Galantines are stuffed, and pressed into a symmetrical stuffed, cooked in aa gelatine stock. probably derives derives from the words giline The term tenn probably géline or galine was first chicken. for this this dish was which in in old which old French meant chicken, and later, towards the end of the sevenmade with poultry, and with other types types of bird, cuts of meat, and teenth century, with fish. A sous-presse sous-presse of fish was aa fonn form of galantine. even fish. galantines are made from other meats besides Nowadays, galantines poultry, but strictly the word qualificaword'galantine' 'galantine' without without qualification denotes galantine of poultry. preparing this cold dish. ways of preparing There are many ways (Car0me's recipe). recipe). GALANTINE cALANTINE DE Galantine of chicken 1I (Carême's IoULARDE À A LA r,c, GELÉE cnrfE -- The The forcemeat. 'Chop 250 g. POULARDE g. (9 (9 oz.) (8 oz.) cooked g. (18 oz.) fat bacon and 225 g. g. (8 veal with 500 g. and225 ham. Mix in 4 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced Spiced salt salr (see SALT), SALT),22 egg yolks, e5gyolks, (3 tablespoons) chopped and 2 tablespoons (3 chopped herbs herbs with the and same quantity of truffies. Mix weil well and place in an earthenware dish. (t| lb.) very ripe truffies. Cut each truffie truffie into 'Peel 750 g. (I~

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GALETTE 'Place on an entrie entrée dish. Arrange Arrange a rosette of of jelly jelly on the top, surround surround with chopped jelly jelly and and then with rounds of top,

wooden board with with a weight on top. Allow Aliow to cool cool for at least 12 hours. It It can be kept for several days ifit if it is stored in a cool place. own jelly, The galantine is served garnished garnished with its own jelly, which JELLY). must be clarified clarified by the usual method (see JELL Y).

jelly jelly cut with a pastry cutter I1 cm. (| (t inch) in diameter, diameter, and serve. ' serve.'

of chicken chic ken II. c.cLINTINE GALANTINE DE PoULARDS POULARDE -- For the Galantine of (9 oz.) galantine. I1 chicken weighing 2 ke. kg. (41b.), (41 lb.), 250 2S0 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) finely minced veal, 150 ISO g. 250 g. (9 finely minced pork, 2S0 (5 and pickled (S oz.) oz.) each each of fat fat bacon, bacon, lean lean cooked cooked ham, ham, and ISO g. (5 (S oz.) truffies, 25 2S g. g. (l (1 oz., It cup) pistachio pistachio tongue, 150 nuts, I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ]t cup) brandy,2 brandy, 2 eggs, salt, nuts, pepper, spices. spices. (18 oz.) fresh g. (18 500 g. For the the stock or jelly. jelly. 2 calf's feet, feet, SOO For (5* lb.) fleshy bacon rind, 2t kg. kg. (st fleshy knuckle knuckle of veal, 2 carrots, rind,2t bacon (4| quarts, 5 litres litres (4t 2leeks, (q.v.), S 1 onion, 2 leeks, I1 bouquet garni (q.v.), cups) Madeira, Madeira, 5j quarts) white stock, 4 dl. (t pint, scant 2 cups) salt. pluck the bird. Remove Remove the feet and pinions. Slit Singe Singe and pluck the chicken along the back and with a small very sharp knife which at operaticin, which without tearing the flesh. flesh. (This operation, bone it without It is simple. It first sight seems is actually fairly simple. first sight seems awkward, awkward, is actually fairly necessary only to follow the the joints of of the chicken and to work necessary shaving off off the flesh as close to inwards towards the carcase, shaving operation separates possible. This first first boning boning operation the bone as as possible. the chicken, leaving them both ofthe the carcase carcase from the body of ove the bones from the legs and wings, still remove whole.) Now rem being careful not to tear the skin. Spread out the bird bird on the table and and cut away the breast part of the thighs and fleshy portions of thighs and the fleshy and the the greater part used for wings. Cut these pieces into squares, which will be used (q.v.) or meat ragoût the salpicon ragofri in in which which the galantine is salpicon (q.v.) served. lean pork The forcemeat. This is made of finely finely chopped lean The forcemeat. and and veal veal in equal quantities. salt, pepper, and Pound with salt, Pound in in aa mortar, mortar, seasoning itit with (To ob rub the mixture, mixture, spices. tain aa very spices. (To very fine fine forcemeat, rub obtain after pounding, pounding, through through aa sieve.) The dish the lean pieces The salpicon. salpicon Place in an earthenware dish cut fat bacon, the the cooked lean cut away from the chicken, the fat ham, ham, and the pickled tongue (all cut into squares), the diced forcemeat, truffles, nuts. Add the forcemeat, truffies, and the blanched pistachio nuts. the 2 eggs and the brandy. Mix thoroughly, thoroughly, adding seasoning if necessary. necessary. galantine.Knead Preparation of Knead ail all the forcemeat forcemeat into aa of the galantine. bail well spread out ball and lay it on the chicken, chicken, which should be weil on the table. (From time to time, the hands should should be dipped dipped in water to make it easier easier to work the forcemeat.) Spread the into aa rectforcemeat evenly forming itit into over the the chicken, fonning evenly over angular shape. shape. Fold over the parts of the chicken skin which project at the the sides sides and and ends. Dip aa coarse linen and wring wring itit out, out, then linen cloth in in water and spread it fiat flap about 2S 25 cm. cm. so that aa flap flat on on the table. table. Place it so (10 inches) wide hangs over the table. table. Place Place the over the the edge edge of the (4 inches) galantine lengthwise on inches) l0 cm. cm. (4 about 10 on this this clotb, cloth, about galanfrom the galantable, breast upwards. upwards. Wrap the from the edge of the the table, possible. Tie tine in Tie both ends of of the both ends as possible. in the the cloth as as tightly as galantine with cloth securely. Tie the galantine in 3 places to keep with string string in it in in shape. Method of The stock stock is made from the ingredients of cooking. The preparation see Y. listed see JELL JELLY. listed above. the method method of of preparation above. For For the giblets of To of the the add the the carcase carcase and and giblets To the the ingredients ingredients listed, add chicken, with the exception of of the the liver. chicken, with the exception galantine in Cook hours, then in the for It lj hours, then lay the galantine Cook the stock stock for galantine. stock the galantine. for 1lf; bours. hours. Remove the stock and and simmer gently for Let itit stand Remove the unwrapping it. it. Remove stand for for IS 15 minutes before unwrapping cloth, rinse in Spread water and and wring wring thoroughly. thoroughly. Spread in lukewann lukewarm water it on galantine in itit as as before, wrap the galantine before, on the table table and and carefully carefully wrap part of taking slit part the chicken chicken underneath. underneath. taking care care to to keep keep the the slit of the Tie galantine. Press it on slab, covering covering itit with with aa Tie up up the the galantine. Press it on aa slab,

of other poultry may OTHER GALANTINES GALANTINES -- Galantines of OTHER galanbe prepared by the same same method as that indicated for galanofvarious game also be made ofvarious tine of chicken. Galantines may tine of may also birds su such ch as pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, grouse, hazel-grouse, hazel-grouse, etc., altering the ingredients of the stuffing. altering The recipes for the various galantines are given in alphabetical order under the name na me of each game bird. prepared according to the method used Galantines may be prepared by pork butchers. Instead of being wrapped in a cloth, they moulds. are put in special rectangular rectangular metal or earthenware mou Ids. galantines, a certain amount improve tbe the flavour flavour ofthese of these galantines, To improve grasmay stuffing.Dicedfoie of foie gras may be added to the stuffing. ofjoie Dicedfoie gras may to the salpicon. added to also be added

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Galantine of eel, Galantine Car6me after Carême

jellied eels. A LA rl D'ANGULLr À clr.lNTINE D'ANGUILLE eels. GALANTINE Galantine Galantine of of jellied instructions for to the the instructions according to the eel eel according Frepare the - Prepare of eel (see EEL). Cook it in a fish stock, drain, Co Id ballottine of Cold Unwrap and allow to cool under aa weight. U nwrap the galantine and jelly. Place long dish, dish, and it on on aa long Place it the half-set jelly. coyer cover with with the jelly made from stock. from the eel eel stock. chopped jelly garnish with chopped GELÉE cerfn -

GALATHEE -- Species to freshwater similar to Species of of shellfish shellfish similar GALATHÉE galathde parent species crayfish. The The parent species of of this this shellfish, shellfish, the the galathée crayfish. grAk,is shores of of the Atlantic and and on the European shores grêle, is common on prepared as in the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Galathée is prepared as indicated for for Galathde is in (q.v.). lobster (q.v.) and and crayfish (q.v.). slightly Frothy milk, milk, slightly GALAZYME, GALACTOZYNIE -- Frothy GALAZYI/IE, GALACTOZYME (See small alcoholic alcoholic content. content. (See with aa very very smaU fermented and and with fermented KEFIR.) KÉFIR.)

from (French Twelfth-Night Cake made from Twelfth-Night cake) -- Cake GALETTE (French galette isis the pastry. The symbolic cake cake eaten eaten on on The galette the symbolic flaky flaky pastry. provinces north of Loire, of the the Loire, Twelfth Night in in most most of the the provinces Twelfth notably in notably in the the region of Paris. in the the south south of of France, France, the the Loire, especially in South South of of the the Loire, yeast dough form of from yeast dough in in the the fonn of Twelfth-Night cake cake is is made from Twelfth-Night bean is is baked baked in in the In both cakes, the the symbolic symbolic bean aa crown. crown. In both cakes, it used to be, be, aa real real bean, but is This is is not al always, as it used to is dough. ways, as dough. This model either either ofa of a baby emerging emerging sometimes sometimes aa small small porcelain model (See FESTIVE FESTIVE figure. (See from aa bean of some some other other figure. from bean or or of COOKERY.) cooKERY.) prunrrrEr -- Roll galette. GALETTE pastry galette. Roll out flat out flat cALETTE FEUILLETÉE Flaky Flaky pastry piece IS round piece 15 to cut from from itit aa round to some flaky flaky pastry dough dough and and cut some (6to7 this on slab. Crimp l8 cm. in diameter. diameter. Place Place this on aa slab. Crimp 18 to 7 inches) cm. (6 inches) in mark out out the the top top in in the edges and brush brush over over with with egg; egg; mark the edges and Bake in in aa hot hot oyen. oven. lozenge-shaped segments. segments. Bake Sieve galettes. PETITES IETITES GALETTES cALETTES ORANGINES onaNcNss-- Sieve Small orange galettes. Small orange place g. (9 (9 oz., In the 250 g. flour onto onto aa table. table. In the centre centre place 2S0 2i cups) oz.,2f cups) flour (5 oz., (4 oz., g. (S g. (4t generous 1* cup) 150 g. oz., JO 10 tabletable125 g. oz., generous cup) sugar, sugar, ISO 12S zest of2 of2 oranges rubbed on spoons) salt, the ofsalt, the zest oranges rubbed on spoons) butter, aa pinch of

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GALICIEN GALICIEN Rich Ricb galette. galette. cALErrE GALETTE

(ll (II oz.,2f oz., 2~ cups) flour,

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FoNDANTE FONDANTE -

Ingredienls. Ingredients. 300 300 g.

250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) butter, butter, I1 egg and I1 yolk, I1 teaspoon (1 o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) teaspoon salt, 25 g. (l sugar, I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1.up) vanilla. cream, vanilla. cup) fresh cream, Work the flour with 50 g. (2 oz.,f oz., cup) of of the butter, butter, then add the eggs, cream, salt, vanilla, and sugar. Leave to stand

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for l0 10 minutes. Knead the dough and add the remaining remaining butter. Roll out and fold the dough 4 times as as is done for Flaky Flaky pastry (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Brush Brush with with egg egg and lattice lattice itit with with a knife. Cook Cook in a hot oven oyen and sprinkle, sprinkle, while hot, with powdered sugar. Savoury galettes. g. (9 GALETTES ur6ns SALÉES - Knead Knead 250 g. (9 oz., galettes. cALErrEs 2| cups) cups) sieved sieved flour with with 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., 10 10 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, (i cup) cold milk milk and and lj H teaspoons teaspoons butter, 8 tablespoons (J salt. Leave Leave to stand for 2 hours. Roll out very thinly on a floured table, prick with a fork and inches) in diameter. Place them and cut cut into rounds 55 cm. (2 inches) on a buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet and and brush with milk milk to which which salt has has been been added. added. Bake in a hot oven oyen for 6 to 8 minutes. As soon as the oyen, brush them the galettes are out of the oven, again with with salted salted milk. milk.

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Flaky Flaky pastry pastry galettes galettes (Scarnati) (Scarnali)

lumps lumps of of sugar sugar and and 66 egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix and and work work the tbe flour flour into into the the mixture. mixture. Knead Knead into into aa ball baH and and allow allow itit to to stand stand for for a few few hours hours in in aa cool cool place. place. Roll out the the dough dough to to aa thickness thickness of ofj1cm. cm. G (i inch). inch). Cut Cut into into Roll out

GALICIEN - This This sweet, sweet, which which isis aa type type of of cake, cake, was was created created GALICE,Nin in Paris Paris at the old Pdtisserie Pâtisserie Frascati, Frascati, once situated on the corner corner of ofthe the boulevard boulevard de de Richelieu Richelieu and and the the rue rue de de Richelieu. Richelieu. This ofwhat during the the This pastry pastry shop shop was was built built on on the the site of what was, during years 1796 and 1799 (the (the Directory) Directory) one of of the the most years between between 1796 famous famous gaming-houses gaming-houses in in Paris. Paris. Ingredients.500 cups) fine sugar, 375 g. (13 (13 Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 2f cups) oz., 3* cups) sifted sifted flour, l6 16 eggs. oz., 3f,cups) M ethod. Whisk Whisk the the sugar sugar and and eggs in in a pan, pan, on on the the edge edge of Method. low flame. flame. After After the the mixture mixture has has tripled tripled in in volume volume carefully carefully aa low Pour the the mixture mixture into into aa large, large, shallow, shallow, stir in in the tbe sieved sieved flour. Pour stir in a hot hot oven. oyen. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. sloping-sided cake cake tin. tin. Bake Bake in of Butter Butter Slice the the cake cake across. Spread Spread on on each each halfa half a layer layer of Slice CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. Put Put the the cream (see (see CREAMS) cream join them them two halves halves together, together, exerting exerting a little pressure pressure to to join two firmly. Spread Spread the the cake cake with with apricot apricot jam. jam. Ice lce with with Pistachio firmly. icing (see (see ICING) ICING) and and decorate decorate with with more more of of the the pistachiopistachioicing butter cream, cream, using using aa forcing-bag. forcing-bag. Sprinkle with flavoured butter flavoured finely chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts. nuts. finely

rounds rounds with with aa fluted fluted cutter cutter 5 cm. cm. (2 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Place brush with egg egg Place them them on on a buttered buttered baking baking sheet, sheet, brush beaten of sugar, sugar, and and bake bake in in aa hot hot oven oyen for for 66 to to beaten with with aa pinch pinch of 88 minutes. minutes. Galette de plomb plomb - Ingredients. Ingredients. 300 300 g. g. (ll (II o2.,2f, oz., 2~ cups) cups) Galette de sieved g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter, butter, 11 whole whole egg, egg, sieved flour, flour, 200 200 g. I1 yolk, yolk, I1 teaspoon teaspoon fine fine sugar, sugar, 22 teaspoons teaspoons table table salt, I1 to to 22 tablespoons tablespoons milk milk or or cream. cream. Method. onto aa marble marble slab slab or or table, table, and and Method. Sieve Sieve the the flour flour onto make make aa well weil in in the the centre. centre. Dissolve Dissolve the the salt salt and and sugar sugar in in I1 tablespoon or cream cream and and pour pour into into the the well. weil. Knead Knead the the tablespoon milk milk or butter malleable, cut cut itit up up into into very very small small pieces pieces butter until until itit isis malleable, and dot these these about about in in the the circle circ1e of of flour. flour. and dot Work Work the the butter butter and and the the flour flour until until the the mixture mixture is is very very short. done by by rubbing rubbing the the hands hands together together with with the the short. This This isis done mixture of flour flour and and butter butter between between them. them. Continue Continue to to mixture of shorten is entirely entirely shorten the the dough dough in in this this way way until until the the butter butter is broken broken up up into into very very small small particles. particles. Spread Spread out out the the dough. dough. Beat pour over over the the Beat the the egg egg and and yolk yolk as as for for an an omelette omelette and and pour dough. dough. Work Work itit in in the the sa'me sa'me way way as as before, before, pressing pressing the the hands hands more more and and more more tightly tightly together together as as the the kneading kneading proceeds. proceeds. The The ingredients ingredients in in the the dough dough should should moisten moisten itit sufficiently sufficiently to together. The The pastry pastry should should be be fairly fairly limp. limp. IfIfitit isis aa to hold ho Id itit together. little little too too firm, firm, add add aa second second tablespoon tablespoon milk milk or or cream. cream. (The (The amount amount of of moistening moistening required required may may vary vary with with the the type type of of flour flour used.) used.) When When the thedough dough isisthoroughly thoroughly kneaded, kneaded, cover coyerwith with aa damp damp cloth, cio th, and and put put itit in in aa cool cool place place for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Then Then flatten flatten itit on on the the table table with with the the palm palm of ofthe the hand, hand, flour flour itit lightly, lightly, and and fold fold into into three. three. Roll Roll into into aa ball. baIl. Flatten Flatten itit into into aa round round shape shape about about 2|cm. 21 cm. (l(1 inch) inch) thick. thick. Crimp Crimp the the edges edges with with the the back back of of aa knife. knife. Place Place on on aa lightly lightly buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet and and surround surround with with aa buttered buttered tart tart ring. ring. Brush Brush the the top top with with the the beaten beaten egg egg and and trace trace on on itit either either lozenges lozenges or or rosettes. rosettes. This This last last is is the the characteristic de plomb. plomb. characteristic design design for for the the Galette Galette de Bake 25 minutes minutes in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. The The Galette Galette Bake for for 20 20 to to 25 de deplomb plomb isis eaten eaten lukewarm lukewann or or cold. cold. Potato Potatogalettes. galettes. cALETTES GALETTESDE DE poMMES POMMES ns DE rEnRE TERRE-- These These can can be made made either either with with potatoes potatoes prepared prepared as as for for Duchess Duchess be potatoes POT ATOES) or or with with potatoes potatoes cut cut into into thin thin potatoes (see (see POTATOES) and are are discs. They They are are used used as as aa garnish garnish for for various various dishes, dishes, and discs. ofmeat, poultry, sometimes served served topped topped with with small small pieces pieces of sometimes meat, poultry, or or fish. fish.

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GALICHONS-Also GALICHONS - Also called called calissons. calissons. Little Little iced iced cakes cakes made made with of Aix. Aix. with pounded pounded almonds, almonds, aa speciality speciality of Common name name of the the plant plant -- Common Cyperus whose whose tubers tubers are are edible edible and and known known in in French French as as Cyperus de terre. terre. amandes de amandes GALINGALE. soucsrr SOUCHET GALINGALE.

GALL. FIEL FIEL -- Secretion Secretion of of the the liver liver commonly commonly called called bile bile in GALL. humans. It It is is aa very very bitter bitter greenish greenish substance. substance. The gall gall humans. bladder isis attached attached to to the the liver. liver. In In drawing drawing poultry poultry or or winged winged bladder game, game, the the gall gall bladder bladder must must always always be be removed removed with with the the greatest greatest care care to to avoid avoid itit breaking breaking and and giving giving aa bitter bitter ff.avour flavour to the the bird. bird. Only Only pigeon pigeon liver liver contains con tains no no gall. gall. to GALLIMAUFRY. clrn\,rlFRfE GALIMAFRÉE -- A A chicken chicken stew stew from from GALLIMAUFRY. in his his book book le le Viandier, Viandier, gives mediaeval cookery. cookery. Taillevent, Taillevent, in mediaeval the following following recipe: recipe: the 'For gallimaufry, gallimaufry, take take roast roast chickens chickens or or capons, capons, cut cut them them 'For into sections, sections, and and afterwards afterwards fry fry them them in in bacon bacon or or goose goose fat. fat. into ground ginger, ginger, salt, salt, and, and, to to thicken thicken Add wine wine and and verjuice, verjuice, ground Add it, treacle-mustard.' treac1e-mustard.' it, 'Take aa leg leg of of mutton mutton freshly freshly Gallimaufry (old (old recipe) recipe) -- 'Take Gallimaufry of onions. onions. cooked, and and chop chop itit as as finely finely as as possible possible in in aa dish dish of cooked, Stew these these ingredients ingredients with with aa little little verjuice, verjuice, butter, butter, and and Stew ground white white ginger, ginger, all all mixed mixed together together and and seasoned seasoned with with ground salt.' salt.' The word word gallimaufry gallimaufry isis now now used used in in aa disparaging disparaging sense, sense, The and means means aa badly badly cooked cooked stew stew made made from from scraps. scraps. and 404 404

GAME ste'p to or pouch. From the word word gibeciire gibecière it was an obvious step carried', and it was not long the word wordgiDier,'that gibier, 'that which was carried', the language. established in the before the word was firmly established three categories. Game can be divided into three quail or the the thrush. the quai! L Small birds, not larger than the 1. into winged proper which which can can be be subdivided into 2. Game Game proper 2. pheasant, etc.) (woodcock, partridge, partridge, pheasant, game (woodcock, etc.) and and ground game and hare). game (wild rabbit and venison (roebuck, deer, and wild boar). 3. Large game or venison 3. and 'Game,'writes 'Game,' writes Brillat-Savarin, 'is a healthy, warming, and and easy easy to fit for for the the most most delicate palate and food, fit savoury food, can proan experienced cook, game can hands of an digest. In the hands digest. quality which raise the culinary art art vide dishes of the highest quality ofaa science. science. level of to the level game from from 'There is game of aIl types of game is game all sorts. sorts. Certain Certain types 'There game killed killed flavour as similar game P6rigord will not have the same flavour Périgord will make make dull dull near Paris will hare killed near at Sologne. Whereas aa hare at Dauphin6 or the the Burgundy the Haut Dauphiné leveret from the eating, aa leveret any other of of district will be more deliciously flavoured than any its kind.' game, i.e. for most most game, i.e. aa is aa closed season for In Britain Britain there there is closed season In shot and killed. killed. Several Several birds be shot period when game may not be protected ail year round, round, including including blackbird, blackbird, are are protected all the the year swan, and and swift. rail, swan, bustard, cygnet, cygnet, heron, lapwing, lark, rail, game - Generally dieticians speaking, dieticians Generally speaking, Digestibility Digestibility of of game if itit has especially if the consumption consumption of game, especially advise against against the and may It can can be be extremely extremely toxic toxic and may for too too long. long. It been hung for putrefaction is is advanced. advanced. cause food poisoning if putrefaction important in moderation. Il It isis important eaten in Fresh game should be eaten fast is shot shot down down when moving fast to to remember remember that the quarry is possibility of causing activity causing of its muscular activity and and that there is is aa possibility gun pellet pellet wounds The gun in the the flesh. flesh. The lactic lactic acid acid to to form form in spread encourages the the spread increase the of this acid, acid, which which encourages the toxicity ofthis putrefaction. The immediately in of putrefaction. in the the latter begins almost The latter of almost immediately flesh of animaIs animals killed after long struggle. flesh after aa long struggle. particularly toxic and inintoxic and Game is particularly fowl left left uncleaned uncleaned is Game fowl digestible. digestible. pregame in larger game in an an effort effort to to preThe habit habit of marinating The marinating larger spread of of microbes. microbes. very slightly slightly the the spread serve serve it, it, reduces reduces only only very FUMET. Game fumet fumet -- See See FUMET.

NUT. NoD( NOIX DE cALI-E GALLE - Orientals OrientaIs eat a fleshy gall nut GALL IYUT.

big as a lady-apple that grows on a species of sage. regions an edible edible type type of of gall gall nut grows on ground In other regions ivy.

as

measure used in most English-speaking GALLON -- Liquid measure about 4| It is is equivalent equivalent to to about 41 litres (U.S. (U.S. gallon countries. It countries. J~ litres). litres). equals 3t equals GAMACHE -- There is an episode episode in Don Quixote in which GAMACIfi the hero and his faithful Sancho attend the wedding feast of extraordinary number a wealthyfarmer wealthy farmer called Garnache. The The extraordinary called Gamache. led to the word gamache of dishes served at this repast has led being used to describe describe any similarly bountiful meal. to a has givenits GAMAY - Village in Burgundywhich Burgundy which hasgiven its name toa GAMAY-Village prolffic vines vines in in vine. The is one one of the most prolific the most vine. The Petit gamay is

Burgundy. Although this this vine of as fine a quality as the vine is not of Burgundy. for their yield, Pinot, Gamay grapes are are much sought after for Pinot, which is always always fairly high. The grapes of of the Gamay vine are which used Pinot, but Pinot are used sometimes used with with those of but the Plnot of the Pinof, sometimes by themselves in the best wines. districts to the west of the Côte and in the BeauC6te d'Or and In districts jolais, Mdconnais, Mâconnais, and Lyonnais districts, the grapes of the and Lyonnais quality. (See Gamay vine make wines excellent quality. wines of excellent vine make Gamay BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.)

of

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partridge of central European origin. GAMBRA -- Type of partridge GAMBRA (q.v.) may be partridge (q.v.) Ali All the recipes for for partridge be used used in in the the preparation of this bird. GAME. GIBIER to ail all wild animaIs animals applies to cIBIER -- The term game applies and and eaten. and birds which which are hunted and Gibier, the French game, cornes from gibecer for game, comes from word for French word Gibier, the which, in old French, meant hunting. Gibecer in turn derives This meaning hunchback. This from the Latin adjective adjective gibbosus, meaning word the various animais animals killed in the word was used used to describe the chase because, to carry home the game they killed, huntsmen were equipped equipped with a bag, pouch, or box which they usually carried on their backs. Thus equipped, they had the appearthey had ance From this this arose arose the the word word gibecer, of hunchbacks. From ance of followed gibecidre for for the the huntsman's bag followed by its derivative derivative gibecière by its

Game. Game. Painting Painting by Snyders by Frans Frans Snyders

405 40s

GAME BAG GAMEBAG GAME BAG. CARNIER clnNrrn

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this will be this be sufficient. If pork is is used, aa little goose fat will enhance the the flavour. flavour. Cut stale wholemeal bread bread into into thin enhance Cut stale add to the stock and vegetables. slices and add 'The mixture mixture must thick enough enough for the ladle 'The must be thick ladle to stand up in it when set in the centre of the tureen. possible to make a good garbure tribuc,bnt 'It is possible garbure without trébuc, but cold Id water a piece of in that case it is necessary to put in the co sausage, or, ot, at the very least, lean bacon ham bone, bone, or a sausage, bacon (thin green cabbage. flank). White White cabbage may be used instead instead of of green 'For an everyday 'For garbure, it is usual to make make do with with a piece everyday garbure,it of bacon or ham, or bacon chopped with crushed garlic. season, aa few slices of pink swede swede or roast 'According to to season, chestnuts are added. In win chestnuts ter, dried beans only being winter, being availThey must have to able be cooked must be able, these these have to be cooked in in advance. advance. They drained after after cooking, cooking, as as their their water destroy the drai~ed water would would destroy garbure. To thicken characteristic flavour of the garbure. characteristic thicken the broth, sometimes crushed through a sieve. the beans beans are sometimes crushed and rubbed through is served separately separately from from the broth, either by 'The meat is itself or with the vegetables, like the boiled beef of a hotpot. hotpot. itself beef of putting it in the Some cooks cooks brown tribuc in a pan before brown the trébuc before putting Sorne added, but the stock. In this this case the necessary fat must be be added, which the the trébuc tribuc was browned should not be used. fat in which is an an indispensable finish to every 'A good goudale (q.v.) is garbure.'

Bag or net used to hold game.

sliced very verv thinly thinlv GAlVJE GAME CHIPS. CHIPS. CROUSTILLES cRousrILLEs -- Potatoes sliced hot or cold. fried. They are served servod hot and fried. CHEESE. GAMMELOST -- See CHEESE.

GANDER.

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JARS - See

GOOSE. GOOSE.

found in the Pyrénées. Pyr6n6es. GANGA -- Hazel-grouse found (7 oz., (Flemish pastry) -- Sieve 2A0 g. o2.,lf; GANTOIS li cups) Sieve 200 GAI\TOIS (Flemish e. (7 (5 oz., g. (5 in the centre 150 150 g. o2.,3~ cup) flour onto aa table. Place Place in the centre flour (5 oz., g. (5 150 g. oz., generous !i cup) butter, butter, refined brown sugar, sugar, 150 ground cinnamon, !t teaI teaspoon ground tea2 medium-sized eggs, eggs, 1 ground cloyes, salt, and and I teaspoon teaspoon bispoon ground cloves, aa pinch of salt, carbonate of soda. flour and and other other ingredients Knead ingredients are Knead, and and when when the the flour pahn of of the hand. with the the palm thoroughly work the dough dough with thoroughly mixed, work for 1I hour. Leave to stand in a cool place for parts and out into and roll them out Divide into 55 parts roll them Divide the dough into the dough (* inch) thick. Place on a buttered baking sheet rounds! rounds * cm. cm. (t and oven until until golden brown. Leave to and bake in aa moderate oyen cool cool on a wire cake tray. Spread each with a thin layer of greengage jam and place ofgreengagejam Trim, and and coyer cover the whole top of the them on top the other. other. Trim, them one one on (l oz., g. (1 apricot jam. Mix ~ix 25 g. completely with concentrated apricot (l oz., i-f, cup) blanched and g. (1 tablespoons) fine sugar, 25 g. 2 tablespoons) sugar, 25 peel of I1 orange ground finely diced ground almonds, the finely diced candied peel (approximately 2 tablespoons), I egg white. (approximately tablespoons), and 1 Cover the cake cake with this mixture, Coyer mixture, sprinkle sugar over it and brown in the oyen. oven. Leave to cool before serving. serving.

t

GAPERON -- Cheese from Limagne Limasne which can be eaten GAPERON eaten from September to July. September

GARBANZOS or GARV GARVANCE GARBANZOS ANCE -- Spanish Spanish name for chickchickpeas. have rather aa tough pulp and and should be be preThese peas have other dried overnight in cold dried vegetables by soaking soaking overnight pared like other water. Serve them with or without meat in the same way as haricot beans. are an an essential essential ingredient Garbanzos are ingredient of alla podrida, a olla podrida, is one of the most characteristic dishes of Spain. stew that is

Garde-manger Garde-manger made with wire-mesh made

B6arnais district. The name also GARBURE -- Broth of the Béarnais applies to to many Their common applies many other other broths and and soups. soups. Their characteristics are are the slices of bread covered covered with with various simmered in fat in savoury spreads, browned in the oyen oven or simmered and served with the soup. the stockpot, and Biarn writes: writes: Cuisine en Béarn Simin Palay in his book la Cuisi,!e gorbe fromi The root is surely garbe 'Where does this term come from? (a sheaf or bunch). It is a bunch ofvegetables of vegetables which provides the basic stock of the garbure: cabbage, thyme, garlic, parsley, marjoram, marjoram, French beans, peas ... . . . Moreover Moreover (in Béarn), B6arn), the term garburatye is used for any the any collection collection or mixture of greur vegetables. fresh green fresh pot glazed glazd on in an 'Boil water in an earthenware pot on the inside -delicacy of cast iron or iron pots spoil the delicacy of the flavour. When peeled and itit isis boiling, throw in potatoes, peeled and cut cut into into thick throw in haricot or broad slices. Add other fresh vegetables in season: haricot pepper. peas, or French beans. Season with salt and pepper. beans, beans peas place of white. pepper may Red ~eppe; used in may be be used in place Red white. Flavour with of thyme, parsley or ~resh fresh marjoram. marjoram. Leave !o to garlic, a sprig of cook, making sure that the water IS is ~onstantly constantly on the boil. bOl!. cook, possible into strips, finely-as Shred tender green cabbage as finely as possible Ieaves, after having removed cutting across the width of the leaves, such portions as are too tough. ingredients are are thoroughly cooked, 'Once the rest rest of the ingredients throw the cabbage into the boiling stock. Coyer Cover the pot to green and, 30 minutes keep the serving, cabbage leaves green the cabbage minutes before before serving, keep put in a piece of of pickled meat: lou trébuc; tribuc; the fat adhering to

Storage place, cool and well-aired, in GARDE-MANGER GARDE-MANGER -- Storage where the food required for the preparalarge eating-houses, eating-houses, where tion of refrigerators in of meals is kept. There are ice chests or refrigerators g&me, fish, and other proviwhich which are stored meat, poultry, game, sions. preparatory all the prepara The cold tory cold buffet is prepared here, here, and ail jointing work done on such as foodstuffs, such work raw foodstuffs, on raw as boning and jointing meat, drawing and trussing poultry, and gutting fish. The name is is also also used used in in France to designate the The to designate the man dutyy it is to supervise this part of of the work ofa whose special dut of a large kitchen. kitchen. The word can also mean an ordinary larder.

GARDEN WARBLER. WARBLER. BECFIGUE BEcFIcITE -- Bird Bird found found in GARDEN in great numbers in the south of France, particularly in Provence. Provence. It is called béguinette biguinette locally. Its Its French French name becfigue dates is harvest in Roman back to the fig fig harvest Roman times. garden warbler praised by Brillat-Savarin. warbler was greatly praised The garden He said said that this this bird, "gets as robins and 'gets at least as plump as ortolans, and nature has given its flesh a slight bitterness bitterness and ortolans, unique flavour which are are so so exquisite that that they they engage, aa unique engage,

406

GARLIC GARLIC gratify, and and stimulate stimulate all all the the degustatory degustatory powers. powers. If If the the gratify, garden warbler warbler were were the the size size of of aa pheasant pheasant itit would would certainly certainly garden be worth worth the the price price of of an an acre acre of of land.' land.' be There are are aa number number of of recipes recipes for for preparing preparing these these little There birds in in addition addition to to the the recipes recipes given given for for ortolans ortolans (q.v.). (q.v.). birds Garden warblers warblers ià I'arlesienne. l'arlésienne. BEcFIcUES BECFIGUES A À r'lnr6srnNNEL'ARLÉSIENNEGarden Fill the the middle middle of of a a round round loaf loaf of bread bread which which has has been been Fill hollowed out out like like aa uoustade croustade (q.v.), buttered buttered and baked baked in hollowed the oven, oven, with with St St George's George's agarics (see (see AGARIC), briskly briskly the sautéed in in butter. butter. saut6ed On the the mushrooms mushrooms put 6 drawn and and trussed trussed warblers. On Season with with salt salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with melted butter. butter. Season Cook quickly quickly in in a a very very hot oven oven and and serve in in the the bread Cook croustade. croustade.

Pour over over the the birds birds the butter butter in which which they were browned, browned, Pour adding a little little flamed ftamed brandy to it. il. Cook in a very hot oven adding in the same dish. dish. and serve in like Roast garden garden warblers. BEcFIGUES BECFIGUES n6us RÔTIS -- Prepare like Roast Roast orto/ans (see ORTOLAN). Roast ortolans

dry, lean sea eel, eel, has GARFISH. oRPHIE ORPHIE - The has dry, The garfish, or sea GARFISH. (q.v.). eel (q.v.). Prepare like eel ftesh, poisonous at certain times. times. Prepare flesh, GARGOTE -- French term for aa third-rate restaurant, with GARC'OTE used being called the gargotier. Gargote is also used its proprietor being colloquially to describe bad cooking. describe bad

its strong strong plant, distinguished by its GARLIC. AIL A.Ir -- Perennial plant, GARLIC. poor man man3 called poor It isis also also called smell, cultivated for its 's its bulb. bulb. It cultivated for smell, districts ('garlic herb'). In country districts theriac and and herbe aux aulx ('garlic powerful anthelmintic anthelmintic very powerful sorne some people consider garlic as aa very and an antifebrile. antifebrile. and also as as an garlic to eat eat garlic Aristophanes used to athletes used the athletes that the wrote that Aristophanes wrote garlic is is that garlic said that Virgil said stadium. VirgiJ the stadium. exercises at the before their exercises reapers. harvest reapers. tain the the right of harvest the strength strength of to main maintain right food food to the garlic isis aa cure for cure for Pliny, that garlic maintained that naturalist, maintained the naturalist, Pliny, the Hippocrates consumption. Celsius for fever. fever. Hippocrates cure for as aa cure cited itit as Celsius cited 'garlic isis classed adds: 'garlic and adds: drugs and sudorific drugs the sudorific among the classed garlic among Dieyes.' Dihot, for the the eyes.' bad for but itit isis bad diuretic, but laxative, and and diuretic, hot, laxative, an anthelmintic anthelmintic oscorides as an favour as in its its favour case in strong case oscorides made aa strong (a (a cure worms). intestinal worms). cure for intestinal The prophet id : 'In and bites bites 'In cases stings and cases of of stings said: prophet Mohammed Mohammed sa to the the by poisonous animaIs, Applied to garlic acts as aa theriac. theriac. Applied acts as animals, garlic produces sucsucspot of scorpion, scorpion, itit produces sting of or sting viper, or by viper, spot bitten bitten by of cessful bites of garlic isis used against bites used against In Cayenne results.' In Cayenne garlic cessful results.' certain snakes. certain snakes. published in In n 1792, 1792, naturelle published d'histoire naturelle his Eléments Eliments d'histoire In his plague'. Millin 'garlic isis aa preventive the plague'. preventive against against the that'garlic Millin claimed claimed that Bernardin which isis smell of of which 'Garlic, the the smell said: 'Garlic, de Saint-Pierre Saint-Pierre said: Bernardin de so perhaps the the most most mistresses, isis perhaps little mistresses, our little by our so dreaded dreaded by powerful nerand nervapours and the vapours against the powerful remedy in existence existence against remedy in vous subject.' are subject.' they are which they to which vous maladies maladies to In F6lix Dr Félix says Dr doctors, says certain doctors, century, certain In the the sixteenth sixteenth century, Brémond 'condemned themthemtable,'condemned de la la table, Dictionnaire de his Dictionnaire Br6mond in in his garlic in selves their in their of garlic cloves of several cloves of several carrying of to constant constant carrying selves to pockets patients, from from the the their patients, and their protect themselves, pockets to themselves, and to protect bad diseases.' epidemic diseases.' air and and epidemic bad air

Garden warbler Garden warbler

Garden BEcFIGUES of Father Father Fabri. Fabri. BECFIGUES manner of warblers in in the the manner Garden warblers

À gras the size of pinn FABRlpiece of of jOie FABRI - Put Put aa piece A LA r.l FAÇON rlgoN DU ou PÈRE foie gros the size of aa walnut, warbler' piece of inside each each warbler. truffie, inside of truille, studded with with aa piece walnut, studded

Brown buttef. sizzling butter. in sizz!ing Brown briskly briskly in Line layer of gratin jorcemeat of àd gratin with aalayer dish with Line an an ovenproof ovenproof dish forcemeat (see FORCEMEA T) and put pressing them them (see FORCEMEAT) and put the on this, this, pressing the birds birds on down into the forcemeat. Cover them with a few tablespoons down into the forcemeat. Cover them with a few tablespoons of a fine in butter. butter. (q.v.) of tossed in of mushrooms mushrooms tossed salpicon (q.v.) fine salpicon of .a Sp;inkle and brandy and of fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy few drops drops of with aa few Spiinkle with 22 tablespoons hot in aa hot (3 tablespoons) Cook in butter. Cook melted butter. tablespoons) melted tablespoons (3 oven. oven. Garden I-.q, LANDAISE LeNnnlse -BEcFlcuEs ÀA LA landaise. BECFIGUES la landaise. warblers ài la Garden warblers Wrap warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, Wrap each each warbler in a vine leaf and a thin rasher of bacon, and put them on metal skewers, 3 birds to a skewer, separa ted and put them on metal skewers, 3 birds to a skewer, separated from in butter. butter. fried in lightly fried of bread bread lightly cro0tons of other by by croûtons from each each other Place them in a long fireproof dish, season with salt and Place them in a long fireproof dish, season with salt and pepper, gras fat. Cook quickly or joie pepper, spnnkle butter or sprinkle with with butter foie gras fat' Cook quickly in pour over little birds aa !ittle over the the birds cooked, pour oven. When When cooked, hot oven. in aa hot Armagnac, grapes and peeled grapes and fresh peeled previously heated, heated, with with fresh Armagnac, previously 1 teaspoon dissolved jelly added it. to il. added to meat jelly I teaspoon dissolved meat Garden warbler à la piémontaise. BECFIGUES À LA PIÉMONGarden warbler I la pi6montaise. BEcFIGUES A r,c, ptfMoxTAISE- Heat butter in asautépan and Iightly brown blanched, rAIsE-Heat butterina sautepan and lightly brown blanched, drained, fat, In the same fat, the same of bacon. bacon.In rashers of shredded rashers drained, and and shredded sizzling hot, cook the warblers. sizzling hot, cook the warblers. Arrange birds in a pie dish or timbale on a foundation Arrange the the birds in a pie dish or timbale on a foundation of juices pan juices (q.v.) with Dilute the thepan with truffies. truffies. Dilute of smooth smooth risotto risotto (q.v.) with a Iittle Madeira, thickened few tablespoons tablespoons thickened addaa few with a little Madeira, add brown veal pour over the birds. birds. over the stock and and pour brown veal stock Garden warblers à lala polenta (called nnc(called ài lalr romaine). romaine). BECpolenta warblers i Garden À LA ROMAINE - Put a fairly stiff layer of FIGUES À LA POLENTA, FrcuEs A u poreNrA, A lA noMNNs - Put a fairly stiff layer of polenta (q.v.) with cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the polenta (q.v.) with cheese into an ovenproof dish. With the back of a wet spoon press as many hollows in trus layer of back of a wet spoon press as many hollows in this layer of polenta as there are birds. Into garden putaagarden hollow put eachhollow polenta as there are birds. Into each warbler which has been briskly tossed in butter. warbler which has been briskly tossed in butter.

Garlie

407 407

GARNISHES GARNISHES Garlfu butter, butter. BEURRE BEURRE D'AIL D'ArL -- This This butter, butter, which which isis used used in Garlic in sauces, forcemeats, forcemeats, or preparation of or inin the the preparation of cold cold horshorssauces, d'euvre, isis made pounding together made by by pounding peeled, together 44 cloves cloves of of peeled, d'œuvre, blanched and garlic and and drained drained garlic (4 oz., 100 g.g. (4 and 100 oz., i] cup) cup) fresh fresh blanched butter. Pass Pass the the mixture mixture through through aa fine sieve. fine sieve. butter. Garlfo capons. capons. CHAPONS cHApoNs ÀA L'AU, r'nn -- Crusts Crusts of of bread bread rubbed rubbed Garlic garlic, seasoned with raw raw garlic, seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper, salt, and and pepper, with green salads. and added added to to green salads. and Garlic forcemeat. forcemeat. FARCE FARcE D'AIL D'ArL -- Used preparation for the Used for the preparation Garlic ofcold hors-d'euvre and and varîous various other other dishes. dishes. pound Pound equal equal of cold hors-d'œuvre quantities of ofyolks ofhard-boiled eggs and and blanched blanched c10ves cloves quantities yolks of hard-boiled eggs garlic in of garlic in aa mortar. mortar. Add Add to to this this mixture mixture half half its its volume volume of of of fresh butter, butter, blend, blend, and and rub rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. fresh garlic. AIL Grated garlic. .q,tr RÂPE nApE -- Garlic grated or Garlic isis usuaJly usually grated Grsted or pounded in in aa mortar. mortar. JtIt is is added great number added to to aa great number of of dishes. dishes. pounded When added added as as aa condiment condiment to to Ingredients ingredients fried fried in in butter, butter, When cooking fat fat or or oil, oil, do do not not alJow allow itit to to fry, fry, as as this this would would render render cooking just before pungent. Add the dishes dishes too too pungent. Add itit just before serving. serving. the The expression expression pointe d'ail d'ail means means the the very quantity very small small quantity The grated garlic garlic which of grated which can can be held on point of be held of aa knife. on aa point knife. of Garlic oil. uulrn D'AIL oil. HUILE D'ArL -- Blanch Blanch and and drain drain 15 15 cloves cloves of of Garlic garlic, _and pound in in aa mortar mortar to paste. Add to aa fine fine paste. (+ Add 33 dl. dl. (} garlic, and pound pint, li lf cups) cups) olive olive oil. oil. Sieve Sieve through aa muslin muslin c1oth. cloth. pint, This oil oil is is used for seasoning seasoning salads. salads. IL It can can also also be be made by by This grated garlie garlic to olive adding grated olive ail, oil, whieh which is then sieved sieved through adding cloth. aa cloth, pouDRE D'AIL D'ArL -- Dry peeled garlic cloves cloves Powdered garlic. POUDRE slowly in an oven. When When tbey they are are quite dry, pound them them in aa slowly put to and put to dry dry once once again again in in the the oven. oven. Pound them them mortar and reduced to a fine fine powder. Pass through aa again until they are redueed sieve. Pound the pieces left in the pieces in the the sieve sieve and and sift once more. sieve. jars, seal, powder into jars, Put lhis this powder seal, and and keep in in aa dry dry place. prr6e. pun6r Garlic purée. D'ArL garlic and cloves of garlic Garlic PURÉE D'AIL - Blanch cloves and cook them in butter butter in a covered pan. Add a few tablespoons cook very (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bleild Bleird and and pass very thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see through through a sieve. and forcemeats. This pur6e purée is used used in certain sauces and forcemeats. Garlfo sarce. SAUCE sAUcE A sometimes used À L'Arr L'AIL -- Name Name sometimes used to Garlic sauce. describe describe aloli aïoli (q.v.). (q.v.). Garlic sor.ipE A Garlic sotp. soup. SOUPE À L'AIL L'AIL - This soup, the recipe recipe for for which will will be be found under SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, is very very popular in in the south of of France. France. Garlic south-west of Garlic toast. toast. ndrn RÔTIE A À r'ArL L'AIL - Speciality of of the soulh-west France. France. Lightly Lightly toast slices slices of of wholemeal bread. Spread them them with Garlic Garlic purie, purée, sprinkle sprinkle with with grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and olive olive oil, and brown brown briskly in in the oven. oven.

Certain garnishes are Certain composite composite garnishes are often often caUed called ragoûts ragoitts (financière, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, etc.). parts of etc.). The The various various parts of ffinancidre, Godard, these generally arrange
GARNITURES GARNITURSS -_

For For large poultry, garne large cuts game -- If cuts of of meat, meat, poultry, If there there isis no no risk risk of of their their being being spoih spoilt by the stock stock or gravy of by the or gravy of the the main main dish, dish, the the garnishes should garnishes should he be disposed disposed round round the the main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. The The main main meat meat should should never never be be completely completely hidden hidden by by the the garnish. If gamish. If the the meat small, itit isis advisable meat isis small, advisable to to raise raise itit on on aa croûton cro0ton of fried bread of fried bread or or sorne some other other foundation. foundation. This type of arrangement, beiog somewhat type of arrangement, being somewhat complicated, complicated, -This snould shbuld be be used used only only for for formai formal banquets banquets wbere where dishes dilhes are are presented to presented guest and to each each guest and served served by by aa waiter, waiter, and and isis only only appropria te to appropriate garnishes made to certain certain garnishes large number up of of aa large made up number of ch as of ingredients, ingredients, su such as financière, Godard, Toulouse, Toulouse, or or financiire, Godard, Tortue. Tortue. joints are To To facilîtate facilitate serving, serving, large hot hot joints are often often served served to the to the guests already guests already carved. carved. Gravy garnishes are Gravy and and garnishes are served served separately separately at at the same same time. Certain Certain vegetable garnishes garnishes are are always always served served separately. separately. This This applies especially to purdes of· to purées of. vegetables vegetables or dried vegetables, vegetables, to greeNr vegetables in to green in buuer, butter, which which would would become limp in in the the stock stock or gravy of of the the main dish, dish, and (rice, semolina, and to to pastas and and cereals cereals (rice, semolina, etc.). etc.). The stocks, gravies, and sauces appropriate garnish appropriate to each each garuish are are listed under the the various garnishes. The dressing should be very lightly sprinkled over the main dish. The remainder is is served served in aa sauceboat. Garnishes set the main main dish be set out out round round the dish should should not not be sprinkled sprinkled with with dressing, dressing, especially especially those those made made of of fresh vegetables with butter, butter, those lhose served au gratin, or any an gratin, any deep~ deepfried garnish. galllish. fried have the dressing dressing poured Braised vegetables vegetables only should have over them. tbem. in individual portions: cutlets, cutlets. e*alopeg escalopes, meat served served in For meat noisettes, noisettes, medalliom, medallions, smell small filletg Mets, fillet fi Il et steaks, of steakg suprême mprGme of chicken, surtfi sautéed chicken dishes, chicken, chicken -- Apart from certain special dishes, drawn under the appropriate beading, to which attention is drawn appropriate heading, these small small cuts cuts of meat meat may be be served served with with any any of the the these garnishes garnishes indicated iodicated for large cuts. Jt is advisable to 10 prepare the garnishes garnishes in smaller shapes shapes It quantîties so that that they they may may be be in better beller proportion proportion to to the and quantities individual portions. portions. All placed around or along the Ali the the garnishes garoishes should be placed of the the main dish. If If saut6ed, sautéed, these these portions portions should be be sides of served with with their their own own cooking cookingliquid. For grills grills itit isis preferable preferable served liquid. For to to serve serve a separate separa le sauce. sauce. The The garnishes garnishes of of individual individual portions portions may may be be served with sauce or or not, not, according according to to the the principles principles applicable applîcable to 1O large large sau@ cuts. cuts. of the the ingredients ingredients and arrangearrangeFor coH cold dishes dishes -- Details Details of For ment of ofgarnishes gamishes for for these these dishes dishes are are given given under under the the heading heading ment COLD FOODSTUFFS. FOODSTUFFS. COLD quanlities of of garnish garnish to 10 be be used used depend depend upon upon the the The quantities main dish, dish, but hut they lhey vary vary also also according accordîng to to the the menu menu as as aa main whole. The The various various ingredients Ingredients of of aa composite composite garnish gamish must must whole. be sufficient sufficient in in number number to to serve serve all ail the the guests. guests. The The quantities quantities be used in in the the preparation preparation of of garnishes, garnishes, whether whether simple simple or or used composite, should should be be calculated calculated at at approximately approximately 100 100 g. g. composite, (4 (4 oz.) oz.) for [or each each guest. guesl. For soups soups and and broths broths -- These These garnishes garnishes may may consist consist of of aa For single item item or or may may be be composite. composite. Some, Sorne, such such as as tapioca lapioca and and single othersimilar similaringredients, Ingredients, are arecookod cookoo in in the the soup soupitself. itself. Others Others other are are prepared prepared separately separately and and added added to to the the soup soup at at the the last last moment, or, or, where where appropriate, appropriate, served served separately. scparately. moment,

GARNISIIES. GARNISHES. c,c,RMruREs GARNITURES - Garnishes are numerous numerous and

important important to to French French caisine. cuisine. They are sometimes somelimes named named after after the the man man who who originated orîginated them, them, or after after an occasion, or after after aa place, place, etc. etc. Garnishes Garnishes consist consist of of various various trimmings trimmings added to a dish dîsh or or placed placed around around meat, meat, chicken, cbicken, fish, fish, etc., etc., or served served at the the same same time time on on aa separate separate dish. dish. Some Some garnishes garnishcs are are complicomplicated cated and and are are made made only only by by professionals; professionals; others others are are easily easily produced produced in in the the domestic domestic kitchen. kitchen. Garnishes Garnîshes must must always always blend blend with with the lhe flavour fiavour of of the the basic basic dish. dish. They They may may consist consist of of one one or or several several elements, elements, dnd and are are termed lermed simple simple or or composite. composite. Simple Simple garnishes. garnishes. These These consist consisl of of aa single single element, element, most most commonly commonty a a vegetable, vegetable, braised, hraised, saut6ed, sautéed, or or bound bound with with butter; butter; aa cereal cereal (rice, (rice, etc.); etc.); or or a a farinaceous farinaceous food food (tart, (tart, crofiton, croûton, etc.). etc.). Composite Composite garnishes. garnishes. These These are are made made from from aa number number of of ingredients, ingredients, varying varyîng according according to to the the basic basic dish. dish. The The ingredients ingredients must must blend blend in in flavour fiavour with with the the main main dish dish and and with with one one another. another. 408 408

Driedfruits frui ~~and a nd nuts: nUl~: hazelnuts, hazeinulS.walnuts, wal nu lS.dried d liedbananas, bananas, Dried apricoIs,almonds, aJmonds.currants, curranlS.sultanas, suh~nas.dates, dales.pean, pcar~.figs, ôgs,raisins, raisins. apricots, apples,prunes, prunl:S. peacbes peaches(Htdiard. (Hi!diard. Phot. Phol. Larousse) ÙJrousse) apples,

GARNISHES braised or Cipes. For For braised or pot-roasted poultry, saut6ed

SIMPLE sMpLEs -SIMPLE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. cenNrruRns GARNITURES SIMPLES For meat meat dishes disbesArtichokes. sauteed. Artichokes. Hearts or quarters: stewed; braised; sautéed. Hearts: stuffed, sprinkled and browned; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and browned; pur6ed. puréed. Artichokes, Jerusalem. Saut6ed;. in cream. cream. Aubergines. Stuffed, Stuffed, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and browned in cream. cream. Broad Broad beans beans (fresh). (fresh). In butter; in cream; pur6ed. puréed. Brussels Brussels sprouts. Saut6ed. Sautéed. Cabbage (grem or red). Braised; Braised; stuffed with forcemeat and rolled rolled into balls; stuffed with small slices of meat and rolled rolled into sausages. sa usages. Carrots (glazeQ.ln (glazed). In gravy; with Vichy sauce. Carrots Cauliflower. Saut6ed; Sautéed; coated coated with Mornay sauce; sauce; in Cauliflower. florets sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned. florets ce/eriac. Stewed; braised. braised. Celery or celeriac. Cèpes. A À ta la bordelaise; bordelaise; with chopped chopped herbs; herbs; àd la Cipes. la provengale; with cream. cream. vençale; with braised. Chestnuts. Stewed; braised. Corn on on the cob.In cob. In butter; in crea4. Corn Cucumbers. Cut pear-shaped, stewed in butter; in thick Cucumbers. slices, stuffed. stuffed. Endive. Braised; Braised; in butter; in cream. cream. Endive. Fennel (bulbous). (bulbous). Braised Braised;; stewed. Fennel French beans.ln beans. In butter; butter; in cream; cream; pur6ed. puréed. French Fungi. Cultivatod Cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, chanterelles, chanterelles, morels, flapFungi. mushrooms, St St George's agaric, orange-milk agaric, agaric, etc. etc. mushrooms, Sautéed, and and cooked cooked in in various other other ways. Saut6ed, Gourd (pumpkin). (pumpkin). Quartered: Quartered: stewed in butter; braised; braised, Gourd stuffed; cooked in cream. cream. stuffed; Hop panicles. panic/es. In butter butter or cream. cream. Hop Kidney beans (fresh (fresh or or dried dried small).In small). In butter or cream; Kidney puréed. pur6ed. In cream; cream; in in gravy. Ladies'fingers. In LentOs. ln In butter; pur6ed. puréed. Lentils. Letluce. Braised Braised;; stuffed. stuffed. Lettuce. Macaroni. Prepared in various ways. Macaroni. Mixed beans. beans. Mixture of French beans and small kidnev kidney Mixed beans, fresh fresh or or dried. dried. beans, Nood/es and and other other pasta pasla of the lhe same same type. type. Prepared in Noodles various ways. ways. various Onions. Glazed Glazed;; stuffed. stuffed. Onions. Peas. ). À la la frangaise,' française; cooked cooked with lettuce lettuce leaves; 1eaves; d à Ia la Peas. purée St St Germain. Germain. paysanne; pur6e paysanne; Boiled; Anna; Anna; croquettes; croquettes; fondantes; fondantes; fried fried in Polaloes. Boiled; Potatoes. various ways; ways; covered covered with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned; various fried with with minced minced onions onions previously previously browned; browned; shaped as as fried nuts and and browned browned in in butter; butter; parisienne; parisienne; sprinkled with nuts parsley. parsley. Red beans. beans. )À la la bourguignonne; bourguignonne; in in gravy; pur6ed. puréed. Red Rice. Cooked Cooked in in fat; fat; curried; curried; pilaf; pilaf; risotto risotto croquettes; croquettes; in in Rice. cream. cream. Spinach. Whole Whole leaves leaves or or as as aa pur6e; purée; in in butter; butter; in in cream; cream; Spinach. in stock. stock. in Tomaloes. Stuffed Stuffed in in various various ways, ways, sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese cheese Tomatoes. and/or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned; browned; grilled; grilled; saut6ed. sautéed. and/or Glazed;; stuffed. stuffed. Turnips. Glazed In butter; butter; dà la la bretonne; bretonne; in in cream; cream; in in stock; stock; White beans. ln la maitre maître d'h6tel; d'hôtel; pur6ed. puréed. dà la For poultry pooltry -For Artichokes. Hearts Hearts or or quartered quartered whole whole artichokes: artichokes: stewed, stewed, Artichokes. or saut6ed sautéed for for pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; saut6ed sautéed or braised, or braised, cooked in in aa casserole casserole for for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry. poultry. cooked Hearts: in in cream cream for for pot-roasted, pot-roasted, poached, poached, or or sautEed sautéed Hearts: for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry; stuffed stuffed for for poultry, for or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry; poultry; braisod in white stock stock for braised or poached poultry. poultry. poached

ken casserole, for drumsticks or breasts of chicken or or chic chicken

poultry. Chestnuls. Chestnuts. Braised or or stewed stewed for for braised braised or or pot-roasted chic ken, for braised or chicken, for braised or pot-roasted young turkey, turkey, for for potroasted roasted pigeon. pot-roasted, or Lettuce. Braised Lettuce. for braised, Braised for braised, pot-roasted, or poached chicken, braised or pot-roasted young young turkey, braised or chicken, braised or potroasted pigeon. Mushrooms. Mushrooms. Cooked in aa white stock for forpoached poultry, for breasts of poultry; poultry; cooked in aa brown for drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts stock braised, pot-roasted, pot-roasted, sautéed, saut6ed, or stock for for braised, or casseroled poultry, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, pigeon, nOll-f()astoo pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. pasta. For Noodles and and other other pasta. For braised braised or or pot-roasted ken, "'AT-rtV""",.. poultry, sautéed pot-roasted turkey. saut6ed or casseroled chic chicken, Pilaf With pot-roasted poultry, poultry, sautéed Pilaf. With pot-roasted saut6ed or or casôsel'olex! casseroled chicken, drumsticks poultry, pot-roasted chicken, drumsticks or or breasts breasts of of poultry, turkey. Rice. Cooked in fat, poached poultry. Rrce. fat, for poached Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted poultry, poultry, chicken Risotto. For braised or pot-roasted sautéed or cooked in saut6ed in aa casserole, drumsticks drumsticks or or breasts of poultry. for braised braised poultry poultry or Turnips. Glazed Glazd for or braised braised or or potroasted Nantes duckling. duckling. Vegelab/es (various). Glazed Vegetables (various). gravy or in gravy Glazod carrots carrots in or àd la la Vichy; cauliflower sprinkled Vichy; cauliflower sprinkld with with cheese cheese and/or and/or breadcrumbs and browned; Sauerkraut braised fennel; crumbs and browned: Sauerkraut;.. braisd fennel; broad beans in in butter butter or glazd turnips; beans or cream; cream; glazed turnips; glazd onions; French beans beans in in butter butter or peas cooked in various French or cream; cream; peas ways; salsify salsify sautéed ways; in cream; saut6ed tomatoes; saut6ed or or in cream; sautéed these vegetables may Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem artichokes in butter, etc. Ali All these be served served with braised, pot-roasted, or poached poultry. poultry, be with braised, or poached sautéed chicken chicken or saut6ed or chicken casserole, casserole, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, breasts, or fillets of chicken. Young corn on on the the cob. In butter butter or cream cream for braised, braised, potroasted, or or poached poached poultry, poultry, sautéed breasts, roasted, saut6ed chicken, chicken, cutlets, cutlets, breasts, of poultry, pot-roasted guinea-fowl. guinea-fowl. or fillets of por.rR OEUFS GARNISHES FOR FOR EGGS. EGGS. cARNrruRRs GARNITURES POUR GARNISHES oEUFs -Like all al! other basic foods, foods, eggs, eggs, especially soft-boiled soft-boilod or the ordinary way or be served poached in the or in moulds, may be served with aa great variety of garnishes. Detailed recipes recipes for for those those garnjsh(~ and instructions for setting them out on garnishes setting thern on the the dish dish

are to be be found among among the the recipes recipes for for egg egg dishes (see EGGS). dishes (see EGGS). porssoNs GARNISHES FOR FISH. FISH. cARNIrr.JREs GARNITURES por;R POUR POISSONS GARNISHES whole or in thick slices, sUces, is is garnished garnished according Braised fish, whole to the instructions instructions set set out for main main meat meat dishes. dishes. Poached fish fish (fish cooked cooked in in a a court-bouillon), Poached court-bouillon'), whole whole or is invariably garnished with boiled boiled or steamed sliced, is steamed potatoes and and fresh parsley. The The dressing is is aa sauce sauce of sorne toes some kind, served separately. separately. To To this trus standard garnish are are sometimes served sometimes

-

added further further ingredients ingredients such such as as very fish, added very small small fried fried fish, minute croquettes, or or shells shells filled filled with with various various garnishes, garnishes, etc. minute etc. Small fish, or fillets fillets poached in a a little court-bouillon, Small court-bouillon, are are served with various various garnishes, garnishes, simple simple or composite. composite. Details Details served of these these garnishes garnishes are are given with with the the recrpe recipe for for the the fish fish in of in question. Small f,sh fish and and their their garnishes garnishes are are normally nonnally covered Small covered with with sauce prescribed for for them, them, unless unless they they are are frid fried dà la meunière sauce la meuniire or sprinkled sprinkled with with cheese cheese or or breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. or Grilled fish, fish, whole whole or or sliced, sliced, is is garnished as as aa rule Grilled rule with with boiled potatoes, slices slices of of lemon lemon cut eut with with aa fluted f1uted knife, knife, and and boiled fresh parsley. Some Sorne types types of of grilled fish fish have have special special gargarfresh nishes. Details of of these these are are given given with with the the recipe recipe for for the the fish in nishes. fish in question. question. Fried fish fish is is invariably invariably garnished garnished with with fried fried parsley parsley and and Fried halved or or quartered quartered lemons. lemons. halved

409 409 gourmet spread: spread: duck duck dàI'orange, l'orange, turbot, turbot, lobster, lobster, AA gourmet and wines wines (Zasserre. (Lasserre. Phot. Phal. Nicolas) Nicolas) limbale Elysée. assorted assor1ed cheeses cheeses and timbaleElysbe,

GARNISHES cARMruREs COMPOSÉESCOMPOSITE GARNISHES. GARNISHES. GARNITURES coMposfgs (potatoes whose pulp is dark potatoes (potatoes A l'africainePafricaine- Black potatoes À colour -- see POT look like marbles, bluish in colour A TOES), cut to look POTATOES), marbles, butter; braised blanched blanched in in salt salt water, water, and and cooked cooked in in butter; braised courgettes courgettes (zucchini). flavourod with Serve with rice cooked in fat stock lightly flavoured saffron. (q.v.) of pickled pickled tongue, mushAgnès Agp&s Sorel Sord -- Salpicon Salpicon (q.v.) and truffles, truffies, with little mounds of white rvhite rice. rooms, and blended with Madeira Madeira and a Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended (see, SA Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry; eggs. Albigeoise Afbigeoise -- Potato Potato croquettes prepared as as for for Duchess potatoes (see POT ATOES) mixed with lean chopped ham; POTATOES) (duxelles) small tomatoes stuffed with chopped mushrooms (duxel/es) small have been which fried in been fried which have in butter with chopped onion onion and garlic, and parsley. and chopped parsley. mixed with breadcrumbs, garlic, (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with Sauce. tomato. tomato. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. garnished Albuféra shed with truffies truffles shaped Albuf6ra -- Small Small tartlets tartlets garni with aa bali-scoop ball-scoop (the size of aa pea) and and chicken forcemeat and kidneys; mushrooms, and balls balls of the same shape. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys; slices of of pickled tongue shaped like cocks' combs combs are placed on top of each tartlet. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Albufera sauce (see poached chicken. Chickens thus garnished are Uses. For poached gras and stuffed foie gras stuffed with with rice rice mixed mixed with with aa salpicon salpicon of foie and truffies. truffles. Algérienne Ng6rienne 1I -- Sweet potato croquettes; small small tomatoes stewed in oil. tomato. Sauce. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. Clear veal Uses. For large or small cuts of meat; poultry. II-- Croquettes of rice and sweet peppers; peppers; thick Algérienne Alg6rienne fi slices of aubergines. aubergines. veal stock flavoured with tomato. Sauce. tomato. Sauce. Clear veal poached Strasbourg Braised sauerkraut; sauerkraut; poached Alsacienne -- Braised Alsacienne potatoes. sausages sa usages cut into rounds; boiled boiled potatoes. stockora thin Demi-glace sauce(see SAUCE). Sauce. Veal stock or a thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). goose and Uses. For large cuts of meat; poultry, especially especially goose duck. Ambassedrice -- Cocks' saut6ed combs; cocks' cocks' kidneys; kidneys; sautéed Ambassadrice Cocks' combs; saut6ed chicken livers; mushrooms; mushrooms; sautéed livers; shredded shredded truffies. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended blendod with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat and poultry. Amdricaine -- Sm slices of of crayfish crayfish or or lobster lobster tails Américaine ail slices Small I'amdricaine. cooked àd l'américaine. (se SAUCE) Sauce à d l'américaine I'amiricaine (see SAUCE) to to which which is Sauce. Sauce. Sauce added used for the main added the concentrated stock of the fish used l'amiricaine.) dish. (See BRILL, Brill àd l'américaine.) Uses. For fish. lambb truffies ;; lam and truffles balls of ofchicken À orcemea t balls chicken and I -- F Forcemeat A l'ancienne I'ancienne 1 mushrooms; fresh olives; mushrooms; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; truffles truffies shaped like olives; crayfish crayfish cooked in a fish court-bouillon (q.v.). (se SAUCE) to sauce (see Sauce. has been Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce to which has (mirepoix), flavoured pulp (mirepoix), fine vegetable vegetable pulp flavoured with added added aa fine Madeira. Madeira. poached or For ca sweetbreads; poached or braised braised Uses. Ives' sweetbreads; Uses. For calves' vol-au-vent; hot pdtds; poultry; vol-au-vent; pâtés; savoury tarts. A l'ancienne l'ancienne fi II -- Little Little savoury nests made of À of fried Duchess (see POTATOES) filled potatoes filled with with aa mixture of diced potatoes (see calves' in butter, butter, and calves' kidneys kidneys sautéed saut6ed in and diced diced mushrooms, grary; stuffed th thickened veal bound with veal gravy; stuffed braised lettuce; bound wi potato balls in butter; beans in French beans small small potato browned in butter; French balls browned butter. butter. pot-roast juices. Sauce. Sauce. Braising liquor or pot-roast pot-roasted cuts Uses. large braised braised or Uses. For For large or pot-roasted cuts of of meat, of veal. saddle le of especially especially loin and sadd

Garnish il l'ancienne round a saddle ofveal

pastry boats garnished with Itr -- Small À A l'ancienne I'ancienne ru Small pastry with a boats garnished (see salpicon of of soft soft roes roes blended blended with wth Normande sauce (see salpicon Normande sauce SAUCE); truffles trufles trimmed to look like olives; mushrooms; mushrooms; freshwater crayfish cooked in aa court-bouillon. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced pan juices of the main dish blended with (se,e SA sauce (see Madeira-flavoured Velouté Velouti sauce aa Madeira-flavoured UCE) based on SAUCE) fine vegetable fish stock and to which which aa fine vegetable mirepoix mirepoix is fish and cream, to added. poached fish. Uses. For baked or poached À A l'anglaise fangtaise 1I -- Carrots Carrots cut in 5-cm. 5-cm. (2-inch) lengths and leg of of lamb; lamb; mashed cooked with medium-sized onions onions cooked with leg and mashed. turnips also cooked with leg of lamb, drained and (s* SAUCE) with capers in vinegar sauce (see Sauce. Butler sauce Sauce. Butter added, served separately. sep,arately. added, poached leg of lamb. Uses. For poached A l'anglaise II -- Carrots and turnips cut in 5-cm. S-crn. (2-inch) À langtaise fi lengths, cooked with chicken; chicken; celery celery hearts also cooked cooked with lengths, chicken; chicken; French beans and and cauliflower, cauliflower, boiled. (see SA SAUCE) Sauce. Butler sauce UCE) with capers in vinegar Sauce. Butter sauce (see (See CHICKEN, added, added, served served separately. separately. (See CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken àd l'anglaise.) potatoes cut to look A l'Anversoise -- Hop shoots in cream; potatoes A I'Anversoise artichoke hearts like olives like in butter. Or olives deep~fried deep-fried in Or small small artichoke chicory stewed in butter butter and filled with hop shoots in cream; chicory (endive) àdlaflamande. laflamande. (endive) stock. veal stock. Sauce. Sauce. Juices from the roast or clear veal Uses. For large or sm ail cuts of meat; poultry. small (see POT POTATOES); A TOES); Armenonville -- Small Small Anna potatoes (see morels in cream; and and tartlets filled with a salpicon of cocks' and kidneys. combs and calves' sweetbreads. Uses. For small pieces of meat; calves' quenelles ; mushrooms; mushrooms ; shredded À A la h banquièrebanquilre - Chicken quenelles; trufles. truffies. (According to the nature of the main dish, the ingredients separately or mixed in a of this garnish are either prepared separately rago,frt.) ragoût.) SAUCE). Sauce. Banquière sauce (see SA UCE). Sauce, Banquiire poached or sweetbreads and Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads and poultry poached blanc: vol-au-vent. braised àd blanc; vol-au-vent. glazed carrots; saut6od in butter; glazeQ carrots; braised braised Béatrix B6atrix -- Morels sautéed quartered artichokes; artichokes; browned new potatoes. cooking pan. Sauce. Sauce. Diluted meat juices from the cooking Uses. For small cuts of meat. À ail artichoke A la Beauhamais -- Very sm small artichoke hearts filled with h Beauharnais (se SA puree has Béarnaise sauce (see UCE) to which tarragon purée Bdarnake SAUCE) been added; small potato balls browned in butter. main dish diluted with with Madeira Sauce. Sauce. Pan juices of the main . and veal stock, together with chopped truffles. truffies. and veal Uses. For small cuts of meat. 410

GARNISHES GARNISHES Dispose these these vegetables round the vegetables round the main main dish dish in in separate separate Dispose groups. groups. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the roast. the roast. Sauce. [/ses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. la bouquetière bouquetibre II II -- Very Very small small artichoke artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered ÀA la in butter, butter, filled filled alteroately alternately with with carrots carrots and and tumips; turnips; buttered in buttered French beans; beans; small small bunches bunches of of asparagus asparagus tips, tips, held held upright French upright by aa ring ring of of carrots; carrots; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and by and covered with (see SAUCE); with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see potatoes cut SAUCE); potatoes cut covered to look look like like olives olives and and sautéed saut6ed in in butter. butter. to Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. (sometimes caUed la bourgeoise bourgeoise (sometimes called àt la la mode) mode) -- Glazed Glazed ÀA la carrots cut cut in in ovals, ovals, and and onions, onions, both both cooked cooked with with the the meaL meat. carrots Sometimes braised braised fresh fresh vegetables vegetables su such as celery, celery, lettuce, lettuce, ch as Sometimes etc., are are added. added. etc., Sauce. Braising Braising liquor liquor of of the the main main dish. dish. Sauce. Uses. For For large large braised braised cuts of meat, cuts of meat, notably notably beef beef rump rump Uses. braised àd la (see BEEF), but la bourgeoise bourgeor'se (see garnish may this garnish but this may be braised be used with with braised (noix de braised ox ox tongue, tongue, veal veal (noix fu veau), veau), or used or leg leg of of lamb or or mutton. mutton. lamb A lata bourguignonne bourguignonne 1I -- Small glazd onions; Small glazed onions; whole whole or À or quartered mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in in butter; butter; diced, diced, blanched, quartered blanched, (pickled) pork. and browned salt salt (pickled) pork. and (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce seuce (see SAUCE). This garnish, This garoish, Sauce. generally served served with with braised braised meat, meat, should should be be added generally added to to the dish aa short time before it is is completely completely cooked. main dish Uses. For large large cuts of of meat, meat, especially beef. Uses. A la bourguignonne bourguignonne II tr -- The The same as garnish, as the previous garnish, À without the pork. the pork. but without Sauce. Red wine sauce sauce made with vegetable or fish Sauce. fish stock little fresh fresh butter added. with aa \ittle Uses. For braised braised fish. Uses. A la la brabançonne brabangonne 1I -- Braised Braised chic chicory; À ory ; Potato fondantes (see POTATOES). (see Sauce. Reduced veal veal stock. Sauce. Uses. Large cuts cuts of meat. A la la brabançonne brabangonne II II -- Little À Little tartlets tartlets garnished garnished with Brussels covered with Mornay Brussels sprouts simmered in butter, covered Mornay sauce (se SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sauce (see SAUCE), browned croquettes. browned;; potato potato croquettes. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal stock. Uses. For large pieces of meat. meat. Brancas - Anna potatoes cooked in potatoes (see (see POTATOES) cooked individual moulds and turned out; olt; Chffinade Chiffonade of of lettuce lelluce with with crearn cream (see (see LETTUCE) LETTUCE) quite dry. dry. Sauce. Thickened veal stock stock or a Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; white white meat meat especially especially popltry. poultry. A À la la bretonne bretonne I1 - Dry white white beans beans or small kidney kidney beans, beans, cooked cooked in in meat meat stock stock and blended blended with Bretonne Bretonne sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Roast pan pan juices juices or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat meat (especially (especially leg leg of of lamb) lamb) potpotroasted roasted or or roasted. roasted. A Àh la bretonne bretonne II II - Breton Breton white white bean bean pur6e purée (see (see PUREE). PÙRÉE). Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. A À la la bretonne bretonne III ID -- Leeks, Leeks, onions, onions, celery celery and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cut cut in in thin thin strips strips and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until they they are are very added to to the the main main fish fish dish dish before before itit isis fully fully very tender, tender, and and added cooked. cooked. Sauce. Made with with a a Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (sre (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Sauce. Made cream. cream. Uses. For baked baked or or poached poached fish. fish. Uses. For Brillat-Savarin ofDuchess Du ch esspotatoes potatoes (see (see Brillat-Savarin-- Little Little nests nests made made of

Garnish Béa (Debillot. PMI. Blatrix Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Garnish triK (Debi/wl.

Beauvillien -- Small Small spinach spinach kromeskies (prepared by kromeskies (prepared by Beauvilliers pancakes with filling pancakes spinach, rolling with spinach, rolling them them up, up, cutting cutting them them filling in rounds, rounds, dipping dipping them them in in batter batter and and frying frying them them in in deep deep in fat); small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed with with cooked pur6e, cooked brain brain purée, fat); browned with with breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs; salsify salsify cut cut into into rounds, rounds, sautéed saut6ed browned in butter. butter. in Sauce. Braising Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Uses. For For large large cuts cuts of of braised braised meat. meat. Uses. A la la bénédictine b6n6dictine -- Very Very small small tartlets pastry boats tartlets or or pastry À garnished with with Brandade Brandade of of salt cod(see COD, Salt Salt cod) cod)with garnished salt cod (see COD, with chopped truffies trufres added. added. chopped (see SAUCE) Sauce. White White wine sauce (see wine sauce SAUCE) if if accompanying accompanying Sauce. fish; Cream Cream sauce sauce for for eggs. eggs. fish; Uses. For For fish poachod eggs. fish or or coddled coddled or or poached eggs. Uses. A la nerricnonne -- Braised U Berrichonne cibbag"; sm smill onions; chestÀ Braised cabbage; ail onions; nuts; rashers oflean oflean bacon. nuts; rasheŒ bacon. Uses. For For meat, in big cuts. t meat, principally principally mutton, mutton, served served in big cuts. Uses. A la Biarrotte Grilled cipes and of Da cakes chess À la Biarrotte -- Grilled cèpes and cakes of Duchess potato potato (see POTATOES) as a (see POTATOES) used used as a foundation foundation for for mear. meat. Uses. For For meat Uses. meat served served in in small small portions. portions. Bonne-femme small ovals. small Potatoes trimmed trimmed into into small ovals, small Bonne-femme I1 - Potatoes onions, bacon and and mushrooms, mushrooms, cooked cooked with with onions, lean lean larding larding bacon chicken. chicken. Uses. For poultry. Uses. For poultry. Bonnefemme Bonne-femme tr II -- Thinly Thinly sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked with with fish. fish. Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. For A À h la bordelaise bordelaise I1 -- Cipes Cèpes d à la la bordelar'se bordelaise (see (see MUSHMUSHROOMS); ROOMS); potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look like like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowlv slowly in in clarified c1arified butter. butter. Sauce. of the the roast. roast. Sauce. Juices Juices of Uses. Uses. For For large large joints. joints. A - Small À Ia la bordelaise bordelaise tr 11Small quartered quartered artichokes artichokes stewed stewed in in butter; butter; raw, raw, thinly thinly sliced sliced potatoes potatoes saut6ed sautéed in in butter; butter; fried fried onion onion rings; rings; fried fried parsley. parsley. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and veal or chicken chicken stock. stock. veal or Uses. For jointed jointed poultry. poultry. Uses. For A À la la boulang0re boulangère -- Thinly Thinly sliced sliced or or quartered quartered potatoes potatoes and and thinly cooked with with the the main main dish. dish. thinly sliced sliced onions, onions, cooked Sauce. Sauce. Juices Juices of of the the roast. roast. Uses. For shoulder, shoulder, leg, leg, and and other other cuts cuts of of mutton mutton and and Uses. For lamb; lamb; occasionally occasionally for for poultry. poultry. AÀ la la bouqueti&re bouquetière I1-- Glazed Glazed carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed trimmed into or shaped shaped with with aa ball-scoop; bali-scoop; peas peas and and into very very small small ovals ovals or diced diced French French beans, beans, boiled boiled separately separately and and blended blended with with butter; butter; cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into into florets florets and and boiled, boiled, covered covered with SAUCE) or or melted melted butter; butter; new new with Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) potatoes in butter. butter. potatoes browned browned in 411 411

GARNISHES GARNISHES POTATOES) frid fried and and hollowed hollowed to to hold hold a a salpicon of POTATOES) concentrated Demiglace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Asparagus Asparagus tipe tips can be arranged arranged on top. top. Sauce. TIin Thin demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce for large cuts. Stock of the Satrce. flavoured with white Malaga wine, a a third veal main dish flavoured SAUCE), stock and Velouté sauce (se (see SAUCE), and two-thirds chicken chicken Velouti cuts. for small cuts. U-ses. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat. in butter; la bruxelloise -- Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts in butter; Potato Ah cut to (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) or or potatoes cut to look look like fondantes (see fondantes cooked slowly in clarified c1arified butter. butter. olives and cookod (see saace (see Sauce. Clear veal veal stock stock or or thin thn Demi-glace sauce Sauce. SAUCE). meat. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and purée (see (see Camdrani - Small tartlets filled with Foie gras purie shredded trufles; truffles; slices of of pickled tongue shaped PUREE); shredded MACAROND. Macaroni dà l'italienne as cocks'combs; cocks' combs; Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI). as Suprême sauce (see SAUCE) to which the reduced Sauce. SuprAme been added. added. pan juices have bee,n Ives' sweetbreads. calves' Uses. Poultry and poached ca À h la cancalaise and shrimps' oysters and A cancelaise -- Lenten garnish of oysters (se SAUCE). Normande sauce (see tails in Normande À la little coquilles garnish of little coquilles cardinal; Fish garnish A h cardinal - Fish mushrooms; slices of truffie. truffle. mushrooms; carrot timbales. timbales. PETITS ttered Little carrot Buttered PETITS PAINS PATNS DE CAROTTES cARorrns-- Bu Litfle custard as dariole moulds filled with carrots prepared as custard cups or dariole for Carrot timbale moderate oven timbale (see CARROT). Cook in a mCloel:ate in a pan of hot water or bain-marie. Castiglione -- Large mushrooms filled with risotto mixed filled with with and ham, sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and lean ham, choppod lean with chopped (to be browned; rounds of aubergine sautéed be used saut6ed in in butter (to browned; as bone-marrow. as canapis); strips of poached bone-marrow. Sauce. white wine the main main dish flavoured with white Sauce. Stock of the to which chopped have been veal stock stock have been added. and veal chopped shallots and Butter should should be be added to this sauce after it has been reduced. Uses. small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. For For small À in oil; oil; sauteed in coarsely diced, diced, sautéed A la catalane -- Aubergine, coarsely h catalane Rice pilaf (see PILAF). pi@(see Sauce. (see SAUCE) flavoured with with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured A Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce Sauce. A tomato. Uses. cuts of meat. Uses. For large cuts Cavour (q.v.) made with polenta (q.v.) with of polenta baked rounds of Cavorr -- Small baked cheese grilled mushrooms filled mushrooms filled large grilled as canapés); canapis); large be used used as cheese (to be with purée shredded truffles. trufles. pur6e of chicken Iiver; liver; shredded Sauce. Marsala or or tomato. flavoured with with Marsala Veal stock stock flavoured Sauce. Veal Uses. escalopes saut6od escalopes cuts of of meat, meat, especially sautéed small cuts Uses. For small (U.S. cutlets) sweetbreads. veal and and breadod calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of of veal A la garnished with with cocks' cocks' Small tartlets tartlets garnished h chalmmaise cnabnnaise -- Small (see kidneys sauce (see Veloutd sauce concentrated Velouté kidneys blended with concentrated blended with SAUCE); cocks' combs combs àd la la Villeroi; Villeroi; slices slices of of truffles; trufles; SAUCE); cocks' mushrooms. Sauce. (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Suprême Supr€me sauce Uses. poultry; calves' poached or calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poached or Uses. For For poultry; braised white stock. stock. braised in in aa white Cbambord quenelles; mushrooms; Large and small fish fish quenelles; Chambord -- Large and small mushrooms ; fillets u téed in tter; truffles fillets of sole; soft soft roes roes sa saut6ed in bu butter; trufles cut cut to to look look of sole; like freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon; court-bouillon; like olives; olives; freshwater small small fried fried croûtons. cro0tons. Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Red Red wine wine sauce Uses. Uses. For For large large braised fish. À - Very A la h cbanoinesse chanoinesseVery small small carrots carrots in in cream cream mixed mixed with with coarsely Arranged as for tartlets. coarsely chopped chopped truffles. trufres. Arranged as aa filling filling for tartlets. Sauce. juices diluted Pan juices diluted with with sherry sherry and and veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Pan Uses. (see sweetbreads; Suprême Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; Supr€me of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); CHICKEN); coddled coddled or or poached eggs. eggs. À A lah châtelaine hearts filled filled with with chestnut chestnut chltelaine -- Artichoke hearts purée pur6e mixed mixed with with rice, rice, sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and

in butter. browned; browned; braisod braised lettuce; potato potato balls browned in juices of pan juices of the diluted pan Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or diluted main dish. Uses. For large cuts of meat. pLUcHEs DE CERFEUIL of stalk All traces of cERFEUIL -- AIl Chervil leaves. leaves. PLUCHES Most and fibre should be removed removed from the leaves of chervil. Most pur6ed vegetables should should have of whole or puréed soups with a base ofwhole quart, litre (scant quart, to every every litre chervil added added - 1 teaspoon to chervil generous quart) soup. soup. Because of the very delicate aromatic the soup at herb, the leaves must be be addd to the flavour of this herb, the soup is is off the the boil. when the the last moment, when For soup. Uses. For leaves and and sorrel shredded lettuce leaves Chifionnade - Finely shredded Chiffonnade used in in many is used This chiffonnade chffinnade is in butter. butter. This slowly in stewed slowly stewed different soups. different green cabbage stuffed with with A la h cbinonaise chinonaise -- Small rolls of green À potatoes sprinkled chopped sprinkled with chopped sausage meat and braised; potatoes parsley. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. meat. of meat. large cuts of Uses. For large Uses. glazed onions; onions; small glazed chestnuts; small Braised chestnuts; Chipolata - Braised sausages ; mushrooms. chipolata lta sausages; Chlpclla (se SAUCE) or the the braising braising SAUCE) or sauce (see Sauce. Demi-glace sauce stock of the main dish. and diced, blanched, blanched, and coarsely diced, bacon, coarsely lean bacon, Sometimes Sometimes lean also served. served. is also carrots, is braised carrots, in butter butter with braised browned in of meat meat or or poultry. cuts of Uses. Uses. For large cuts hearts artichoke hearts butter; artichoke Cboron Choron-- Potato balls browned in butter; in butter. butter. simmered in (or asparagus tips) and and simmered asparagus tips) filled filled with peas (or (se SAUCE) with flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Biarnaise sauce dish. round the the main main dish. in aa ring round arranged in tomato, tomato, arranged grilled. or grilled. meat, fried fried or small cuts cuts of meat, Uses. For small Uses. For pnonrERoLEs - Using (see paste (see Chou paste paste balls. Using Chou Chou balls. PROFITEROLES Chcr paste out squeeze out round nozzle, nozzle, squeeze with aa round in aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with DOUGH) DOUGII) in in aa of a nut. nut. Bake Bake in size ofa each the the size sheet little little balls each onto onto aa baking sheet for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes. minutes. me)derat:ely hot oyen oven for moderately hot puree or other In,!!:reclle!lt ingredient or whatever whatever other Stuff with aa purée Stuff the balls with soup in which which for the the soup to the the recipe recipe for isis appropria te, according according to appropriate, up. heat them and heat them up. served, and they are are to to be be served, For soup. Uses. For peas in in filled with with peas Artichoke hearts hearts filled À A la Clamart Clamart I Artichoke potato balls in butter. butter. butter; potato balls browned browned in (see sauce (see Demi'glace sauce wr/.h Demi-glace Sauce. stock blended blended with Veal stock Sauce. Veal SAUCE). sAUCE). meat. Uses. small cuts cuts of of meat. For large or or smaU Uses. For garnish 1/ /1(below). A lah Clamart St Germain Germain garnish See St Chmart tr -- See green cabbage stuffod and Rolls of of green À A la Clermont Clermont - Rolls (pickled) pork cooked with braised; of salt salt (pickled) slices of rectangular slices braised; rectangular potatoes. the the cabbage; potatoes. (se, SAUCE) or the the braising braising Sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) or Sauce. Demi-glace sauce liquor. liquor. Uses. meat. large cuts cuts of of meat. For large Uses. For garnish. ROGNONS DE COQ coQ - Wash Wash inin Cocks' RocNoNs DE as gamish. Cocks' kidneys kidneys as kidneys. Put Put (a oz.) g. (4 cocks' kidneys. several firm, white white cocks' 100 g. oz.) finn, waters 100 several waters scant them tablespoons, scant with 1I dl. dl. (6(6 tablespoons, small saucepan with them into into aa small pinch of salt, o2.,2 tablespoons) t* cup) water, 2 tablespoons) salt, 25 25 g. (1Qoz., water, aa pinch "up)and butter of lemon lemon juice. and aa few few drops drops of butter good heat. soon as the liquid liquid Start heat. As As soon as the over aa good Start cooking cooking over begins cookitg, very low and continue continue cooking, heat very low and turn the the heat to boil boil turn begins to covered, avoid boiling. boiling. care to to avoid taking care 12 minutes, minutes, taking l0 to to 12 covered, for for 10 Use recipe. to the the recipe. according to Use according (rolled into ÀA la - Small into puree of lentils (rolled of lentils Small croquettes of of purée h Conti Contiballs); potato€s cut fried inin butter. butter. olives, fried like olives, cut to to look like balls); potatoes Sauce. Demi-glace and Demi-glace with Madeira Madeira and diluted with Pan juices diluted Sauce. Pan (see SAUCE). sauce sauce(s* Uses. of meat. meat. For small small cuts cuts of Uses. For (4oz., 1 cup) o2.,1 100g.g.(4 dish 100 Place in inan anearthenware earthenware dish Cr0pes - Place Add 22whole wholeeggs, eggs, mix teaspoon table tablesalt. salt. Add sieved flour and and1I teaspoon

gras and truffies truffles blended blended into a a foie gras

- I

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-

-

h

-

h

-

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412 412

GARNISHES GARNISHES

A À ta la duchesse duchesse - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) in different shapes according according to the nature of of the main dish. dish. Sauce. Thickened veal stock or roast pan pan juices. juices. Uses. For large or small cuts of of meat. meat. Duroc Duroc - New potatoes (very small), browned in butter. butter. Sauce. Chasseur sauce (s* (see SAUCE) cooked in the the pan pan used for the main dish. disb. Uses. For small cuts of of meat and poultry, saut6ed. sautéed. Duxelles DuxeUes - Chopped mushrooms browned in butter and oil mixed with chopped cbopped onions and shallots, moistened moistened with white white wine, with chopped parsley added. Uses. For small cuts of meat. Favart Favart - Chicken Chicken quenelles quenelles seasoned with with chopped tarragon, tartlets of rich pastry filled with a salpicon salpicon of mushmushrooms (cdpes) (cèpes) in cream. cream. (se SAUCE) of Velouti sauce (see of chicken with Sauce. Sauce. Thick Velouté butters). Compound butters). Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound sweetbreads. Uses. For poultry; veal; sweetbreads. quarters of A artichokes) Small artichokes (or quarters Àh la favorite favorite -- Small of articbokes) braised; lettuces lettuces stuffed and braised; mushrooms cooked in small Anna with mixed diced vegetables; vegetables; small butter and and filled filled with mixed diced potatoes POTATOES) A TOES) baked in individual moulds mou Ids and potatoes (see POT turned out. (see veal stock, stock, Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal Sauce. Demi-glace sauce juices of the main dish. SAUCE) or the diluted pan juices and small cuts of meal. meat. Uses. For large and (q.v.) A Ia fermilre -- Artichoke hearts filled with aafondue A la fermière fondue (q. v.) lettuces. vegetables; braised lettuces. of mixed vegetables; (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see Uses. For large cuts of meat. quenelles; cocks' combs combs A la U financière nnancilre -- Chicken or veal veal quenelles; A and Stoned and truffies. Stoned kidneys; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded and kidneys; shredded truffies. and are sometimes sometimes freshwater crayfish crayfish are olives, and and freshwater blanched blanched olives, added. (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Financiire sauce (see Sauce. Financière Sauce. meat; calves' calves' sweetsmall cuts cuts of of meat; Uses. For For large large and and small Uses. poultry; vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc. breads; poultry;

well, and and dilute dilute the the mixture mixture with with 2f 2i dl. (scant (scant Ii pint, pint, generous generous well, boiled milk. milk. cup) boiled Make pancakes pancakes and use them as appropriate. appropria te. Clear soup soup Make in the the preparation of this may be be used used instead instead of milk in may garnish. garnish. For soup. soup. Uses. For CROÛTES Croûtes ganrished gamished and and browned à l'ancienne. cno0rrs Cro0tes GARNIES rr ET cneuN6ps GRATINÉES A À t'lNctsNNEL'ANCIENNE - Cut Cut a long long French loaf cARNIES into slices slices 3 to 4 cm. cm. (li inches) incbes) thick. thick. Scoop out three three into quarters of the bread to make nests. Brush with butter or fat from a pot-au-feu. pot-au-feu. Toast Toast lightly in the oven. oyen. Chop or fat sieve the vegetables from the pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, add grated cheese, cheese, mixture. and garnish garnisb the the bread with little !ittle mounds of this mixture. and these cro0tes croûtes on on a a baking sheet sheet and and sprinkle with Place these few drops drops of the the fat, fat, and grated cheese. cheese. Moisten with a a few grated 'brown. ·brown. soup. Uses. For clear soup. of sandwich sandwich loaf loaf into into cubes approxiCroûtons - Dice slices slices of cubes approxiCroiitons(i inch) across. Fry them in clarified clarified butter butter just mately i* cm. (* before serving. serving. Uses. For soups. Allow 50 g. (2 oz.) fried fried bread for every Uses. generous quart) soup. litre (scant quart, generous pur6e, A hla CussyCussy- Artichoke hearts hearts filled with musbroom mushroom purée, A kidneys; sprinkled cocks'kidneys; sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; cocks' shredded truffies. shredded Sauce. fiavoured with Madeira Madeira or port. Sauce. Sauce flavoured Uses. For sm aIl cuts of meat; small mebt; poultry, whole or jointed. À tai! ragoût Nantua (see la Nantua ragofit àd la A la h Daumont - Crayfish Crayfish tail CRA YFISH) (in scallop shells or pastry pastry boats); boats); large fish fish CRAYFISH) QUENELLES), decorated with truffies; quenelles (see QUENELLES), quenelles (see decorated with truffies; truffles cut fillets of sole in fancy fancy shapes; cut in fillets sole decorated with with truffies slices of truffie; mushrooms cooked in tn court-bouillon. (se,e SAUCE) witb Sauce. Normande Normande sauce (see with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Uses Uses.. For large baked fish. (see POT À Dauphine potatoes potatoes (see ATOES). POTATOES). Dauphlre -- Dauphine A la h Dauphine Sauce. veal stock. Sauce. Roast pan juices or clear veal Uses. meat. small cuts of meaL Uses. For large or small is covered prepared à À demi-denil is d la demi-deuil A la ta demi-deuildeni-deuil - Food prepared (se SAUCE) garnished with shed with with SAUCE) and and garni with aa Suprême sauce (see Supr€me sauce truffies. Uses. poached poultry and veal veal braised braised àd blanc. Uses. For poached (shelled) in À wine; tails tails of of Mussels (sbelled) in white wine; A la U dieppoise aieppoise - Mussels freshwater crayfish, grey grey or pink (shelled); mushrooms. (se SAUCE). Sauce. White wine sauCe saucq (see SAUCE). Sauce. White poached in Uses. in white wine. Uses. For fish fish poached Dubarry masked with with into balls, balls, masked shaped into Dubarry - Caulifiower Cauliflower shaped grated cheese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and cheese and SAUCE) sprinkled with grated browned. Uses. small cuts of meat. Uses. Large or small

i

(lj

-

-

-

fillet of of beef beef la flamande flamande round round aa fillel Garnish àd la Gamish

stuffed, rolled rolled up, up, and and A lah flamande flamande -- Green Green cabbage cabbage stuffed, À large oval oval shapes shapes trimmed into into large braised; carrots carrots and and turnips turnips trimmed braised; glazed; potatoes. potatoes. Diced pork fat fat and sausage Diced pork and slices slices of of sausage and glazed; and cooked with with tbe the cabbage cabbage a,re a-re sometimes sometimes added added.. cooked (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see veal stock, stock, or or the the SAUCE), veal Sauce. Demi-glace Sauce. juices of pan juices diluted pan of the the main main dish. dish. diluted For large large and small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For and small Uses. potato balls sautEed in in butter; balls forestilre -- Morels Morels sautéed butter; potato A lah forestière (pickled) pork, pork, diced, salt (pickled) diced, browned in in butter. Sometimes salt browned butter. Sometimes fried in in butter added. blancbed, butter isis added. blanched, and and fried

Garnish (Debillot. Phol. Iarousse) Garnish Dubarry Dubarry (Debillol. Phot. Larousse)

413 413

GARNISHES GARNISHES Gorenffot shredded red GorenOot -- Braised Braised coarsely coarsely shredded red cabbage; cabbage;

(see SAUCE), Sauce. SAUCE), reduced Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see reduced veal stock, or the diluted dilutod pan juices of the main dish. Uses.Large Uses. Large and and small pieces of meat; poultry. A from Duchess À h la frangaise française -- Small Sm ail nests made from Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) hollowed hollowed out, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs, vegetables; crumbs, fried, fried, and and filled filled with with diced diced mixed mixed vegetables; bunches ofcaulibunches of asparagus tips; braised lettuces; florets of cau liflower coated with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) or clear veal gravy. large cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large

rounds of Saveloy Saveloy sausage sausage cooked cooked with with the rounds of the cabbage; cabbage;

Potatoes Ia ménagère mdnagire (see Potatoes àd la (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Sauce. Braising stock. Sauce. Braising meat. Uses. For large braised cuts of meat. Gouffé Little nests nests of Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) Gouff6-- Little of Duchess

cream: fried and and hollowed hollowed out out to to hold hold morels morels cooked in in cream; fried asparagus asparagus tips in butter. Madeira and Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira

thickened veal stock. and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and meat. of potatoes la dauphinoise. Gratin dauphinois. dauphinois. Gratin Gratin of potatoes ài la dauphinoise. Gratin r.e n.c,upHrNorsE GRA TIN DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE À LA DAUPHINOISE - Slice thinly cRATTN TERRE A kg. (2i lb.) potatoes. Season pepper and put I1 ke.(41b.) Season with salt and pepper them in an ovenproof ovenproof dish previously previously rubbed with with garlic and butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle grated cheese on the potatoes, spread out in butter. the dish in even layers. layers. (1 pint, of 2 eggs eggs and 6 dl. (I cups) over this this a mixturc mixture of pint, 2f 21 cups) Pour over grated nutmeg. little salt, salt, and boiled milk, milk, a a !ittle and aa dash boiled dash of of grated Sprinkle with grated cheese and butter. Sprinkle and dot the top with butter. Bring to the boil on the stove and complete the cooking cooking in Bring oyen for about 40 minutes. Serve in the baking dish. the oven omitted if desired, desired, The garlic gar!ic and grated nutmeg may be be omitted though, strictly speaking, they form an an essential seasoning thoug[ seasoning of this dish. GRATIN DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE Gratin of potatoes ià la savoyarde. cnrrrN TERRE À r,c. LA s,avovARDE SA VOY ARDE - Prepared as as for Gratin dauphinois, fiRRE A dauphinois, substituting substituting clear c1ear stock for the milk. Helder -- Potato Potato balls browned in butter: butter; Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE), traced in a circle circ1e on the meat; meat; thick Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) FONDUE) placed placed in the the middle middle of the bearnaise béarnaise fondue sauce. sauce. Meat juices of of the main dish blended blended with reduced reduced Sauce. Meat veal stock. Uses. For small saut6ed sautéed cuts of meat. meat. Artichoke hearts filled with Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce sauce Henry IV -- Artichoke (see (see SAUCE) with concentrated veal veal stock added; potato shredded truffies. balls browned in butter; shreddod Madeira and Sauce. Stock of the main dish blended with Madeira thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat. meat. À h la hongroise hongroise I1 -- Large florets of of cauliflower cauliflower coated with A Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, Mornay breadcrumbs and browned browned under under the grill; grill; sprinkled with breadcrumbs ppatata ot at o fondante POT ATOES). fondantess (see (see POTATOES). Thin Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Thn of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts of À la la hongroise hongroise II II -- Nests Nests of of Duchess Duchess potato patata (see A POTATOES) POT ATOES) garnished garni shed with florets florets of cauliflower cau!iflower coated coated with Mornay Mornay sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to which which is added chopped seasoned with paprika. paprika. onion simmered in butter and seasoned juices of the main dish dish blended with cream, cream, Sauce. Pan juices seasoned with paprika and and thickened with a little little Velouti Velouté Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce or Bichamel sauce smaIJ cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Uses. For small Àh la hongroise hongroise Itr ID -- Rice Rice pilaf; pilaf; diced diced tomatoes tomatoes simmered simmered in A butter. Sauce. Hongroise Hongroise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. sautéed. Uses. For poultry, poached or saut6ed. garnish -- See JAPONAISE JAPONAISE (A (À LA). Japanese garni$ À la jardinilre jardinière -- Glazed carrots carrots and turnips in small oval A with a ball-scoop); bali-scoop); peas; French beans; beans; shapes (or rounded with shapes smaJl kidney kidney beans beans in butter butter -- all ail disposed disposed round round the the dish in small separate groups. separate Florets of of cauliflower, cauliflower, coated with Hollandaise sauce (see Florets sometimes added. added. SAUCE) or melted butter are sometimes c1ear veal stock. Sauce. Pan juices or clear cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large and small cuts

beef A Frascati Frascati gamish garnish round round a fillet fille! of ofbeef A

Frascati Frascati -- Large baked baked mushrooms, some sorne filled with a salpicon of truffies, truffies, others others with buttered buttered greur green asparagus asparagus tips; small slices of/ore of foie gras saut6ed sautéed in butter. Sauce. Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with port. Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. A À la gauloise gauloise I1 -- Tartlets Tartlets filled with cocks' kidneys; kidneys; cocks' combs combs fried rià la la Villeroi; mushrooms; mushrooms; trufles. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the main main dish dish diluted diluted with with white white wine. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat; jointed poultry. poultry. A Ah la gauloise gauloise tr II -- Pastry boats filld filled with a salpicon salpicon of truffies and mushrooms ci à la crime; crème; potato patata croquettes; croquettes; freshfreshwater water crayfish cooked in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Sauce. Matelote Matelote sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. For large large baked or poached poached fish. Glazed Gh~zed carrots for garnish gamish -- See CARROTS. CARROTS. Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow (zucchini) gamish gamish -- See ITALIAN IT ALlAN MARROW. Glazed onions onions for garnish. orcNoNs OIGNONS cLAcES GLACÉS - Skin small, uniform-sized unifonn-sized onions. Fry them very lightly lighily in butter in a shallow season. shaIJow pan. Sprinkle Sprinkle with a little !ittle sugar sugar and season. Moisten Moisten with stock (or (or water, water, ifif the garnish is is required for a Lente,n Lenten dish) so that the liquid liquid does not quite quite cover coyer them. them. Simmer gently gently with the lid on the pan pan until the liquid !iquid has completely completely disappeared. disappeared. If, after this reduction of liquid, liquid, the onions are not yet yet cooked, add a few tablespoons of hot stock, finish cooking cooking and glaze, without without stirring them. them. God$dGodard - Large Large decorated quenelles; quenelles; small small poultry poultry orveal or veal quenelles with with truffies; truffies; sheeps' sheeps' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, braised braised and glazed; cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys; small truffies, whole or cut to look look like olives; mushroom mushroom caps. garnish is is for for a a substantial substantial second second course, course, When this garnish sweetbreads stuffed with bacon and braised may be be calves' sweetbreads substituted for the sheep's sweetbreads. sweetbreads. (For (For fuller informainformasubstituted CHICKEN, Chickm Chicken dà la Godard.\ Godard.) tion, see CHICKEN, Sauce. Godard Godard sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). For large large cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. poultry. Uses. For

414

GARNISHES A la h maraîcbère naralch0re -- Carrots trimmed into large Carrots trimmed large ovallengths oval lengths A glazed; small glazed on and glazed; small glazed onions; slices of thick slices of stuffed stuffed and and and ions ; thick quartered artichokes braised cucumber; cucumber; quartered artichokes which which have have been braised simmered in in butter in in aa covered covered pan. simmered Sauce. Strained Strained braising liquor, liquor, with aU all fat fat removed. removed. Sauce. Uses. For large large braised cuts of meat. braised cuts meat. Uses. la marécbale marechale -- Asparagus tips tips in in butter; sliced truffles. trufres. A la la maréchale marichale are are dipped dipped in in aa mixture Ingredients prepared àd la of two two thirds thirds breadcrumbs and and one one third third finely finely chopped chopped of truffies. (see BUTTER, Mattre d'hôtel Sauce. Maitre d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound Sauce. (see SAUCE). butters) or or Chateaubriand Chateaubriand sauce (see SAUCE). butters) (see CHICKEN); Uses. For Suprême SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); escalopes escalopes Uses. (U.S. of veal; sweetbreads; sweetbreads; sometimes fillets fillets of of fish. (U .S. cutlets) of h Marigny -- SmaU Small artichoke artichoke he hearts filled wi with corn A la arts filled th corn kernels in cream; potato balls, balls, browned in in butter. kernels juices of the main dish diluted with white wine Sauce. Pan juices Sauce. and thickened veal veal stock. and Uses. For small cuts cuts of meat. Uses. h marinière marinilre -- Shelled Shelled mussels cooked cooked in in white white wine; wine: A la crayfish. shelled tails of freshwater crayfish. (se SAUCE). Sauce. Mariniire SAUCE). Sauce. Marinière sauce (see Uses. For fish. fish. Uses. Marivaux -- Oval (see Oval nests nests made Duchess potato made of of Duchess Marivaux potata (see POTATOES), in the the oven, filled filled with aa mixture of of POT ATOES), browned in finely chopped carrots, celery, celery, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, and and mushfinely rooms -- which have aIl all been simmered in butter in a covered been simmered pan and (see SAUCE) blended with and blended with Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) -pan sprinkled with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sprinkled browned; French beans in butter. (see SAUCE) or thickened Sauce. Thin Demi-glace sauce (see Sauce. veal stock. veal Uses. For large large cuts cuts of meat. Uses. A la la marocaine pilaf, lightly marocaine -- Little mounds of rice pilaf, lightly seaA (to be soned with with saffron saffron (to used as be used as canapés); canapis); diced diced baby soned (U.S. marrows zucchinis) sautéed saut6ed in in oil; oil; braised braised sweet .S. zucchinis) marrows (U stuffed with chicken forcemeat. peppers stuffed Pan juices diluted with tomato tomato juice. Sauce. Pan juices diluted juice. Uses. For noisettes of mutton or lamb. A la h mascotte mascotte -- Sliced artichoke artichoke hearts sautéed saut6ed in butter; A potatoes trimmed into into small small oval oval lengths, lengths, browned potatoes trimmed browned in butter; trufres. bu tter; sliced truffies. in a Ingredients prepared àd la mascotte are usually served in deep pie dish or in earthenware dishes. Sauce. Pan juices white wine wine and and thickened Sauce. juices diluted with white veal stock. small cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. For smaIl Mrssena -- Artichoke garnished with hearts garnished with strips strips of Massena Artichoke hearts poached bone-marrow. bone-marrow. (se SAUCE) prepared by Sauce. Marrow sauce by diluting Sauce. sauce (see the the marrow has been cooked. the juices juices in which themarrow been cooked. small cuts of meat. Uses. For smaU Massenet- Anna potatoes individual mou moulds Massenetpotatoes baked in individual Ids and (see POT turned out (see POTATOES, turned out ATOES, Anna potatoes potatoes for for garnish); small artichokes artichokes filled with aa salpicon salpicon of of bone-marrow; bone-marrow; small filled with French beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Meat juices dish or aa Demi-glace sauce Sauce. juices of the main dish (see SAUCE) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. (see Uses. For large or small cuts of meat. meat. glazd onions; Matelote onions; mushrooms; mushrooms; small Matelote - Small Small glazed cro0tons croûtons fried in butter. butter. (se SAUCE) with red wine. Sauce. Matelote Sauce. Matelote sauce (see Uses. For fish. Matignm stuffed with with aa matignon matignon Matignon -- Artichoke Artichoke hearts hearts stuffed (q.v.), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and and browned; stuffed (q.v.), braised lettuces. lettuces. Sauce. Madeira (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sauce. Madeira sauce or Port wine sauce (ser, Uses. For large and small cuts of meat. meat.

Tiny artichokes cooked cooked in in butter, butter, stuffed stuffed with aa Jessica -- Tiny salpicon of of bone-marrow bone-marrow with with shallots; shallots; morels morels sautéed saut6ed in in salpicon potatoes (see (see POT butter; Anna potataes POTATOES) in individual butter; ATOES) baked in moulds. (s* SAUCE) Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE) increased bya by a third Sauce. with concentrated (see concentrated veal veal stock stock and and Truffle Truffie essence essence (see with ESSENCE). (see CHICKEN); Uses. For For Suprême SuprAme of of chicken chickm (see CHICKEN); veal Uses. (U.S.. cutlets); coddled or poached eggs. escalopes (U.S Joinville -- Salpicon of shrimps, Salpicon of shrimps, truffies and and mushrooms, Joinville blended into (se SAUCE); into Velouté Velouti sauce or Normande Normande sauce (see SAUCE); blended truffies. sliced truffles. Squce. Normande (see BUTTER, Normande sauce saucewith butter (see Sauce. with Shrimp butter Compound butters). Compound Uses. For baked fish. Uses. Shred into into matchstick strips, carrots, turnips, Julienne -- Shred and celery. celery. Cook them in in butter until until tender. leeks, onions, and clear meat stock. If If a vegetarian soup is is required, water Add clear is added added instead instead of of stock. stock. To To this this mixture mixture add add shredded is cabbageandlettuce freshpeas, or22 tablespoons cabbage and lettuce hearts, fresh peas, and 1I or shreddod sorrel. shredded For soup. Uses. For A la h languedocienne hnguedocienne -- Cèpes Cdpes sautéed oil; diced saut6ed in butter or oil; A or sliced sliced aubergines fried in aubergines fried in oil; oil; potatoes cut cut to to look look like or olives and cooked slowly in clarified butter. (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured Sauce. Demi-glace sauce tomato. Uses. For large and small and sm aIl cuts of meat; poultry. Uses. A la la lorraine -- Red Red cabbage braised in red red wine; wine; Potato A braised in (see POTATOES). POTATOES). fondantes (see Sauce. Diluted Demi-glace (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or braising Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (see stock; in in addition, Horseradish (see SAUCE) served sauce (see stock; Horseradish sauce grated horseradish. separately, or grated horseradish. separately, Uses. For large cuts of meat, particularly braised braised cuts. A la la lyonnaise Medium-sized stuffed onions, onions, braised; lyonnaise -- Medium-sized (see POT Potato POTATOES). ATOES). Po tata fondantes fondantes (see (se SAUCE). Sauce. Lyonnaise sauce (see Sauce. Uses. For large cuts of meat. meat. Macedoine which have have been of vegetables vegetables which Macédoine -- Mixture Mixture of water separately, separately, drained, and tossed in butter; in water drained, and cooked in carrots and turnips turnips diced or shaped with a ball-scoop; bali-scoop; diced French small kidney kidney beans; etc. Cauliflower Cauliflower French beans; beans; smaIl beans; peas, peas, etc. florets may be added. Sauce. Juices of the roast or clear veal stock. Sauce. small cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For large or smaU Maillot PorteMaillot) -- Glazed carrots and Maillot 1I (also (also called caUed Porte-MaiUot) turnips in small oval lengths (or ovallengths (or shaped with aa ball-scoop); bali-scoop); French French beans in in butter; butter; braised lettuces. lettuces. These vegetables, vegetables, arranged round the dish in separate groups, are sometimes sometimes glazd, onions interspersod knobs of of cauli-. caulionions and and knobs interspersed with with little little glazed flower sprinkled with melted butter. butter. (se, SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) flavoured fiavoured with Sauce. sauce (see Madeira. Madeira. Uses. For large large cuts of meat, especially especially ham. Maillot Coarsely shredded Maillot II II -- Coarsely shredded carrots carrots and and turnips, turnips, simmered French beans in butter. butter in aa covered covered pan; French butter. simmered in butter Sauce and uses. As Maillot Maillot I. 1.

Maillot Maillot garnish gamish round round aa ham

415 415

GARNISHES GARNISHES Very small small tomatoes filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of Melba -- Very Velouti sauce in Velouté blendod in chicken, truffies, and and mushrooms, blended (see SAUCE), sprinkled with breadcrumbs and and browned; (see sprinkled with braised lettuce. flavoured with port. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured Uses. For small cuts of meat. slices of small small vegetable vegetable marrows Mentonnaise -- Thick Thick slices stuffed with tomato-fiavoured rice; small cooked artichokes tomato-flavoured rice; to look cut to simmered in butter in aa covered pan; potatoes cut clarified butter. like olives and cooked slowly in c1arified (se Thickened veal veal stock stock or or Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Thickened SAUCE). SAUCE). and small cuts of meat. Uses. For large and curriod rice to be Mikado -- Small rice to used as Small mounds mounds of curried be used filled with soya bean shoots in cream. canapis; tartlets filled canapés; (see, SAUCE) with soya added. Sauce. Sauce. Curry sauce (see suprAmes of chicken, escalopes (U.S. cutlets) of Uses. For suprêmes veal. (see MACARONI); Macaroni à MACARONI); Milanaise Milanaise 1| -- Macaroni d l'italienne I'italienne (see cooked ham in dariole moulds. tomato. Sauce. Sauce. Veal stock flavoured with tomato. Uses. For large pieces of meat. lozenges and Mlanaise tr - Semolina gnocchi (cut in lozenges rec:tallgleS) .. init-IM with cheese and browned. u"p,,,_,,,;;,,~. rectangles) "", sprinkled Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock fiavoured flavoured with tomato. (se MACARONI); Milanaise m III-- Macaroni I'italienne (see MACARONI); Milanaise Macaroni àd l'italienne ham, pickled cooked harn, pickled tongue, mushrooms, and truffies, cut flavoured into strips and blended blended in concentrated veal stock fiavoured with toma to, making aa coarw julienne. tomato, either mixed with the macaroni or arranged Thisjulienne This julienne is either in a circle round it. especially veal cutlets (U.S. Uses. For small cuts of meat especially chops) in breadcrumbs. Mirabeau -- Stoned Stoned olives; olives; anchovy anchovy fillets; fillets; blanched Mirabeau and occasionally occasionally matchstick matchstick tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Watercress and potatoes are also included in this garnish. Compound butters). butters). Sauce. Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Compound gnlled steaks. especially grilled Uses. For small cuts of meat especially (q.v.) of vegetables in A h moderne -- Chartreuse Charteuse (q.v.) rn dariole À la potatoes. moulds; stuffed, braised lettuces; small potatoes. moulds; Sauce. Sauce. Thickened veal stock with butter added. Uses. Large cuts of meaL meat. Little cakes of of spinach spinach with Parmesan cheese; Mont-Bry -- Little cheese;

Nichette -- Grilled filled with grated horseGrilled mushrooms filled ragofit of cocks' radish; ragoût cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, blended radish; combs and (se SAUCE). in Marrow sauce (see Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce. Uses. For small cuts of meat; suprAmes. A la simmerod in À niçoise 1I -- Small h nigoise Small skinned tomatoes, tomatoes, simmered (courgettes or vegetable marrows (courgettes butter; very small braised vegetable stewed in zucchini); small small artichokes artichokes stewed in butter; butter; potato balls browned in butter. butter. Thickened veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato, tomato, or Sauce. Sauce. Thickened pan juices of the main dish flavoured fiavoured with tomato. Uses.Large and and small cuts ofmeat; of meat; poultry. A h nigoise n tr -- Small tomatoes ",",,,,prl"f1 simmered in butter with a little chopped garlic; French beans in butter; new potatoes look like like olives and browned in butter, or potatoes cut to to look browned clarified butter. cooked slowly in c1arified Sauce and uses. As above. A h nigoise In Itr -- Tomato Tomato fondte d la nigoise (see TOMATO); blanched blanched green or black olives; anchovy fillets; capers. fish, the fondue is cooked in the When served with baked fish, same dish as the fish; for grilled fish, it is prepared separately. Uses. U.res. For fish. Ninon -- Nests Duchess potato (see POT POTATOES) filled Nests of Duchess ATOES) filled kidneys blended with aa salpicon salpicon of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys blended in with (se SA Velouti sauce (see Velouté UCE); asparagus tips in butter. SAUCE); Sauce. Sauce. Marrow sauce (see SAUCE). meat. Uses. For small cuts of meaL trimmed in small ovallengths; oval lengths; small Nivernaise Nivernaise -- Carrots Carrots trimmed glazed onions. SAUCE) if the main dish Sauce. Demi-glace sauce (se SA UCE) or, if is braised, the braising stock. Uses. For large cuts of meat. Normande -- Oysters, trimmed and Oysters, trimmed and poached; mussels; "LU lUI!:," , mushrooms; frp.,huI
cipes tn cream.

of the main dish blended blended with Sauce. Pan juices of with white wine and thicklen(!
-

trufres. truffies. Sauce. Sauce. Stock of the main main dish blended with Madeira and thickened veal stock. Uses. For small cuts of meat; jointed chicken. cooked in in butter in in a Nanette -- Small Small artichoke hearts hearts cooked (see crearn (see covered pan, filled with Lettuce chiffonnade with cream mushrooms simmered in in butter butter and CHIFFONNADE); . mushrooms filld with a salpicon of truffies blended with a concentrated filled Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-glace of the main dish fiavoured flavoured with Marsala Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices of (see SAUCE); sauce (see Velouti sauce and blended with with chicken chicken Velouté and blended chicken jelly. cream and white chicken (U.S. chops); For lamb lamb cutlets cutlets (U.S. chops); escalopes escalopes (U.S. Uses. Uses. For calves' sweetbreads. cutlets) of veal; ca Ives' sweetbreads. Nantua -- Freshwater Crayfish tails ragoût ragofrt à d la Nantua (see in shells, pastry boats, or or tartlets, CRA YFISH), arranged in CRAYFISH), in white white wine. or or set set on on aa dish dish surrounding fish cookod in sometimes added. Shredded truffies are sometimes (se SAUCE). Sauce. SAUCE). Sauce. Nantua sauce (see Uses. For fish.

salpicon. Sauce and uses. As above. A h paloiseFrench beans paloise- Potato balls balls browned in butter; French in cream. cream. (se SA SAUCE). Sauce. Paloise sauce (see Sauce. UCE). Uses. For small cuts of grilled meat. (see POTAA la Potatoes àd la parisienne (see À POT Ah parisienne 1| - Potatoes

-

TOES); braised lettuce. Sauce. Sauce. Panjuices Pan juices of the main dish diluted with white wine and veal stock. Uses. For large and small cuts of meat; poultry. A la parisienne n tr - As above, using quartered artichokes À instead of lettuce. pARMESAN - Mix in a bowl Pamesan Génoise. Au PARMESAN Parmesan G6noise. GÉNOISE cfNoIsE AU gratd nutmeg, 22 stiffiy 22 egg little grated egg yolks seasoned seasoned with aa little beaten egg whites, 35 g. (U oz., oz., 6 tablespoons) sieved fiour, flour, 50 g. (2 Q oz., I cup) grated Parmesan cheese. (3 inches) Spread the mixture 7! 7l cm. cm. (3 inches) thick thick on on sheets sheets of 416 416

GARNISHES GARNISHES (See poultry, game game or forcemeat. (See or fish fish forcemeat. may be be made made of of fine fine poultry, may QUENELLES.) QUENELLES.) pan. and arrange arrange in in aa buttered buttered pan. Pipe through aa forcing-bag and Pipe and cover with with boiling boiling salt salt water water and before serving, serving, coyer Ten minutes minutes before Ten garnish isis used, to 40 40 of of these these no other used, 35 35 to simmer slowly. If If no other garnish sim mer slowly. (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) to every every litre litre (l~ should be added added to balls should quenelles per per litre garnishes are litre 20 quenelles are used, used, 20 clear soup. If If other other garnishes clear soup. (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) will sufficient. will be be sufficient. (l~ and somesomeshaped in in aa teaspoon teaspoon and Sometimes Sometimes the the balls balls are are shaped (q.v.) of vegetables. brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables. times times stuffed stuffed with aa brunoise Uses. Uses. For soup. soup. poached, drained, drained, Rachel of bone-marrow, bone-marrow, poached, Rachel -- Slices Slices of piece of grilled, and itself isis set set on on grilled, top of of meat, meat, which which itself and set set on on top of aa piece artichoke in butter. butter. artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in (se SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Bordelaise grilled meat. pieces of Uses. meat. Uses. For For small small pieces of grilled recipe for for Ravioli -- Prepare in the the recipe the ravioli ravioli as as described described in Prepare the (q.v.), but ravioli (q.v.), very small. Fill them thern with with chicken, chicken, make very small. Fill but make gras, or forcemeat. SimSimfoie flavoured forcemeat. or any any other other delicately delicately flavoured foie gras, mer mer and and drain. drain. Uses. soup. to clear Uses. Add Add to clear soup. Régence quenelles decorated with truffles, truffies, small small Large quenelles decorated with R6gence -- Large gras sautéed chicken foie gras quenelles, slices cocks' saut6ed in in butter, butter, cocks' chicken quenelles, slices of of/ole (or truffles combs, truffies cut cut in in slices of of truffles truffies (or combs, mushrooms, mushrooms, thick thick slices preparation of ovals). for the of this this instructions for the preparation ovals). For For detailed detailed instructions dish rigence. la régence. dish see Chicken àd la see CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken (ser', SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande Uses. poultry, sweetbreads, poultry, of white meat, calves' calves' sweetbreads, Uses. For For cuts cuts of white meat, savoury vol-au-vent. flans and and tarts, tarts, vol-au-vent. savoury flans

paper very slow slow oyen oven and paper on a buttered baking tin. Bake in a very

allow to cool. Cut into shapes. Uses. For soup. garnish). PÂTÉS DTvERSES -- 60 Pasta and cereals (soup garnish). rArfs DIVERSES 60 g. (2i pasta or vennicelli for each be used used for vermicelli should be (2~ oz.) oz.) Italian pasta generous quart) quart) soup. litre (lf (1 ~ pints, pints, generous Cooking time time varies soup. Cooking from 8 to 14 minutes, according to the size and quality of the pasta pas ta used. used. (3f oz.) pastina or pasta beads should be used for each 80 g. (3ieach quart) clear soup. (l~ pints, pints, generous quart) soup. Cooking Cooking time is litre (lf 22 to 25 minutes. minutes. 22to25 (21oz.) approximately 70 g. (2~ oz.) tapioca, sago, salep to sago, or salep Use approximately (l~ pints, generous quart) clear is I1 litre (l| Cooking time is clear soup. Cooking 20 minutes. (lf (2 oz., if cup) rice should be g. (2 50 be used used for every litre (I~ 50 g. pouring boiling pints, generous pints, generous quart) quart) clear After pouring clear soup. soup. After water over it, the rice should be cooked in in the clear clear soup soup for for 25 minutes. À la persane -- Rounds or long slices of aubergines sautéed saut6ed A h persane in oil; onion rings fried in oil; Tomatofondue FONDUE) Tomatofondue (see FONDUE) pep pers (to decorate with peppers decorate the the other garnishes). Sauce. Panjuices or lamb stock stock Pan juices of the main dish or mutton or flavoured with tomato. Uses. (U.S. chops) of mutton mutton or Uses. Cutlets chops) and and noisettes noisettes of or Cutlets (U.S. lamb. À la (mixed with pi6montaise -- Croquettes of risotto (mixed with aa A h piémontaise of risotto salpicon pickled tongue, tongue, and and ham) ham) salpicon of truffles, truffies, mushrooms, pickled shaped to look like corks. Sauce. Sauce. Thin tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Uses. cuts of of meat. Uses. For large cuts À (q.v.); portugaise -- Tomatoes stuffed A la stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.); h portugaise potatoes potatoes cut to look like olives and cooked slowly in clarified clarified slowly in butter. Sauce. (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see Sauce. Veal Veal stock stock or flavoured with tomato. Uses. Uses. For large cuts cuts of meat. Prince Albert -- Whole in aa in butter butter in Whole truffles truffies simmered simmered in covered covered pan. The prepared according recipe isis The fillet to this this recipe fillet of of beef beef prepared according to stuffed (see BEEF, Fillet Albert). Fillet ofbeef of beef Prince Albert). stuffed withfoie withfoie gras (see Sauce. Madeira or or the main dish dish flavoured flavoured with with Madeira Sauce. Juices Juices of the port; thickened veal stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For fillet of beef. À tips in in butter butter or or cream; cream; diced diced A la h princesse -- Asparagus Asparagus tips or sliced sliced truffies. Sauce. (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce Uses. poultry; calves' vol-aucalves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; small small vol-auFor poultry; Uses. For vent; vent; tartlets. tartlets. Printanier fine strips turnips in in dice dice or or fine strips Printanier -- Cut or turnips carrots or Cut carrots about (l inch) long. vegetables and long. Blanch and cook cook 2l cm. Blanch the the vegetables about 2~ cm. (1 them peas add peas are almost almost cooked, cooked, add them in in clear When they they are clear stock. stock. When and drained. have been been boiled and and weil well drained. and French beans beans which which have Asparagus added. beans may may also also be be added. Asparagus tips tips and and young kidney beans Uses. clear soup. soup. Uses. Add Add to to boiling boiling clear À printaniire -- New New carrots turnips cut cut in in small small carrots and and turnips A la h printanière oval tossed in in butter; oval lengths, lengths, cooked cooked in in white white stock, stock, and and tossed butter; peas; peas; asparagus in butter. asparagus tips tips in butter. Sauce. veal stock. stock. Sauce. Clear Clear veal Uses. poultry. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat; meat; poultry. À provengale -- Aubergines Aubergines cut in chunks, chunks, stuffed stuffed with with A la la provençale cut in Tomato (see FONDUE), Tomato fondue FONDUE), sprinkled sprinkled with with breadbreadfondue (see crumbs potatoes cut French beans in butter; butter; potatoes cut crumbs and and browned; beans in browned; French to in clarified butter. look like to look like olives olives and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in clarified butter. Sauce. and veal stock flavoured with with tomato tomato and Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal stock flavoured chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Uses. Uses. For For large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meat. meat. Quenelles - Little balls about the size of a white bean, Quenelles - Little balls about the size of a white bean, rounded recipe followed, followed, they they rounded or fluted. According According to to the the recipe or fluted.

Régence garnish round R6gence garnish round veal veal sweetbreads sweetbreads

Réjane A(see POT potatoes (see Duchess potatoes POTARdjane -- Nests Nests made made of of Duchess TOES), leaf spinach TOES), ftied, filled with with leaf spinach inin fried, hollowed-out hollowed-out and and filled butter; quartered artichokes in butter; butter; slices slices of of artichokes simmered simmered in butter; quartered poached poached and and drained drained bone-marrow. bone-marrow. Sauce. Braising stock. stock. Sauce. Braising Uses. Uses. For For braised braised veal veal sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Renaissance A variety variety of vegetables, disposed disposed of spring spring vegetables, Renaissance -- A .. They round groups._ round the in individual They are are separately separately the dish dish in individual groups glazed, te. glazed, braised, fried, as braised, tossed tossed in in butter or fried, as appropria appropriate. butter or ,, Sauce, gravy. roast or veal gravy. Gravy of of the the roast or clear clear veal Sauce. Gravy Uses. large cuts Uses. For For large cuts of of meat. meat. Richelieu Richelieu -- Medium-sized Medium-sized stuffed stuffed tomatoes, tomatoes, sprinkled sprinkled with potatoes with breadcrumbs braised lettuce; lettuce; potatoes browned; braised breadcrumbs and and browned; cut cut as as for for small slowly in in clarified clarified butter, butter, small chips chips and and cooked cooked slowly or potatoes fried or new new potatoes fried in in butter. butter. Sauce. Thickened veal veal stock or aa rather rather liquid liquid Demi-glàce Demi-glace Sauce. Thickened stock or sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. For large large cuts of meat. meat. Uses. For cuts of 417 417

GARNISHES GARNISHES A hi h l'omaine-Individual ronetne - Individual spinach timhales timbales with with anchovies; anchovies ; À individual Anna garnish (see (see POTATOES) Anna potatoes for garnish POTATOES) individuaf turned out out of of small moulds. turned Sauce. Thin Thin tomato tomato sauce sauce or or thickened thickened veal veal stock stock Sauce. flavoured with wilh tomato. tornato. flavoured Uses. For For large large cuts of meat. meat. cuts of Uses. (q.v.), Rornanov -' Cucumber Cucumber stuffed stuffed with with duxelles duxelles (q.v.), Romanov sprinkld wi with potatoes and browned; browned; Duchess Duchess potatoes sprink:led tb breadcrumbs and (see POTATOES) POTATOES) filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of celeriac celeriac and and mushmushrooms in (see SAUCE), rn aa Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with with rooms gratd horseradish. horseradish. grated (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) fiavoured flavoured with with Sauce~ Madeira. Madeira. Uses. Garnish Garrish for for large large and and small small cuts cuts of of meaL meat. Uses. Rmsini -- Thick Thick slices gras sau slices of trufle; slices of truffle; slices ofjoie of/ole gras saut6ed in téed in Rossini butter. Sauce. Stock Stock of the the main dish blended blended with main dish with Madeira Madeira and and Sauce. veal stock. stock. thickened veal Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. Uses. garnish for Loyale -- This This garnish prepared either for soup soup isis prepared either from from RoyàIe consomm6 (q.v.) thickened thickened with eggs, eggs, or or from from aa aa flavoured consommé puree of sorne some kind,also kind, also thickened with with egg. egg. purée Fill small srnall dariole furiole mou moulds with thechosen the chosen ingredients ingredients and and Fil! Ids with (q.v.) until firm. bain-mnrie (q.v.) firm. When completely cold, cook in aa bain-marie completely cold, out of the the mou moulds and dice neatly or or cut cut into into lozenges, lozenges, dice neatly turn out Ids and squarcs, rounds, stars, stars, Jeaves, etc. |eaves, etc. as garnishes for Uses. Royales are used as for c1ear clear soups. soups. given below (2fi pints, pints, 3i The measures given below are are for for lt l| litres litres (2~ Tbe 3f pints) c1ear clear soup. piots) porNTEs D'ASPERGESRoyah of asparagus tips. D'AspERcEs tips. ROYALE RoYALE DE DE POINTES (3 oz.) g. (3 Boil 75 g. oz.) asparagus tips tips in in salt salt water and add 55 or Boil and add or (2 tablespinaoh. Drain, add add 1ljt tablespoons (2 table6 leaves young spinaeh. (se SAUCE) (3 spoons) Béchamel Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and spoons) and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consommé, consomm6, and and rub rub through aa sieve. sieve. Blend in Blend in as for for other other royales. 4 egg yolks and and cook as carrots, caUed RoyALE DE Royale of carrots; called à i la Crécy. Cr6cy. ROYALE DE CAROTTES, cARorrEs, ntre A LA I-A CRÉCY DITE cRfcy -- Cook Cook 1I sliced sliced carrot, carrot, seasoned seasoned with salt with salt and aa little little sugar, sugar, in in butter. and butter. Add Add 22 teaspoons teaspoons Béchamel Bdchamel (see SAUCE), 2 (3 tablespoons) sauce 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) cream, sauce (see cream, sieve. Blend in 44 egg yolks. Pour into aa buttered mould and sieve. and cook tn in aa bain-marie in aa moderate oyen firm. oven until until firm. RoyALE DE or CÉLERI Royale of celery. ROYALE Royrle c6rnnr -- Cook in aa in butter in Cook in (3 oz., g. (3 double saucepan 75 g. oz., l'I cup) finely shredded double sauce pan 75 cup) finely shredded stick (ser', SAUCE) celery. Add JI tablespoon Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) consommé, consomm6, and and blend blend in in 44 egg yolks. puRfE DE purée. ROYALE RoyALE DE Royale of d cbicken chicken pur6e. ns PURÉE DE VOLAILLE VoLATLLE -(2 oz.) g. (2 Pound to to aa fine fine pulp pulp 50 50 g. Pound oz.) cooked cooked white white meat meat of of poultry. Add 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Bichamel Béchamel sauce (3 tablespoons) cream, (see SAUCE) and 2 tablespoons (3 cream, and and egg yolks. Poach as for other royales. strain. Blend in 4 egg punm DE GIBIER -- Pound Royale of of game game Flree. purée. RoyALE ROYALE DE op PURÉE Royale ground game game (hare or to a fine fine pulp 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) fiesh of ground to oz;S flesh roebuck) (partridge or pheasant). roebuck) or of of winged game (partridge pheasant). Add Add 1l+~ tablespoons (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), tablespoons SAUCE), 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant Ii consommé, and strain. Blend Blend in in 1I consomm6, "up) and 2 yolks. yolks. whole egg and and poach Iike like Pour into aa mould and other other royales. ROYALE oRDTNATRE ORDINAIRE - Put a a large pinch pincb of Plain royale. RoyALE chervil into l! dl. (| pint, 3~ cup) boiling consomm6 consommé and leave chervil 10 minutes. ".,p) whole egg and it to infuse for l0 Beat together I1 whole and 2 2 yolks. Blend Blend the eggs slowly slowly into the stock. Strain, skim, and pour into into a buttered mould. Cook as for other royales. pors Royale of fre$ fresb pea pea plr6e. purée. RoyALE ROYALE os DE pUREE PURÉE DE DE POIS Royale Blend 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fresh pea pur6e purée FRAIS -- Blend FRAIs with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* (~cup) consommé. Season Season with salt and a with cup) consomm6. yolks. Pour into aa little sugar. Blend in I1 whole egg and 2 yolks. little mould and poach poach like other royales. mould

ptrRfn DE prr6e. ROY Royale of of tomato tomato purée. RoyALE op PURÉE DETOMA ToMATES Royale ALE DE TES - (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute 1I dl. dl. (6 scant tI cup) cup) concentrated concentrated tomato Dilute tomato puree with with 44 tablespoons tablespoons ({ cup) consommé. Season with purée consomm6.Season salt withsalt yolksand poach as and sugar, sugar, thicken thicken with with 4 egg egg yolks and poach as for for other other and royales.

Risotto asas aa foundation, Sagan -- Risotto foundation, adding adding mushrooms mushrooms pur6e of stuffed with with purée of brain brain mixed mixed with with aa salpicon of of truffles. truffes. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish dish blended Sauce. blended with Madeira and thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened (U.S. veal Uses. For For escalopes escalopes ofveal of veal (U.S. Uses. veal sweetveal cutlets); cutlets);veal sweetbreads; suprAfues of breads; of chicken. chicken. pur6e of Saint-Germain 1I -- Thick green peas, peas, served Thick purée of green served separately. separately. Clear veal veal stock. stock. Sauce. Clear Sauce. Uses.Large small cuts Uses. Large and and small cuts of of meat. meat. Saint-Germain Saint-Germain fitr -- Artichoke Artichoke hearts hearts simmered simmered in in butter butter pur6e of green peas. peas. This and garnished with garnish is and with purée of green This garnish sometimes referred referred to SOlmetmles to as as Clamart. Clamart. Sauce and and uses. uses. As As above. Sauce above. gras; cocks' Saint-Saëns Saint-Sa6ns -- Fritters Fritters of of truffies trufresand and foie cocks' foie gras; kidneys; asparagus tips. kidneys; tips. (ser', SAUCE) Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme sauce sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with (see ESSENCE). Truffie Truffie essence essence (see ESSENCE). poultry. Uses. Uses. For For suprêmes suprAmes of of poultry. À A la sarde -- Cork-shaped h sarde Cork-shaped croquettes croquettes of of rice rice cooked cooked with with cheese; cheese; mushrooms mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in in butter; French beans butter; French in beans in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Thin Thin tomato tomato sauce sauce or or veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with tomato. tomato. Uses. Uses. For For large cuts cuts of of meat. meat. À A lala sarrasine sarrasine -- Small Small buckwheat buckwheat cakes, cakes, browned browned in in butter; little (q.v.) oftomatoes rice tartlets, little rice tartlets, filled filled withfondue with/ondue (q.v.) of tomatoes with peppers added. with sweet sweet peppers added. Place Place 1I or or 22 fried fried onion onion rings rings on on each each tartlet. tartlet. Sauce. Thin Demi-glace (see SAUCE). Sauce.Thin Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For large large cuts cuts of of meat. Sauerkraut. Sau erkraut. CHOUCROUTEcHoucRourE - Wash Wash and dr ain the the sauerkraut; s aue r k r au t ; and drain squeeze squeeze it it dry dry and and simmer simmer in in clear clear soup or or white white stock. stock. Semolina (Hungarian cookery). cNoccHr DE Semolina gnocchi (Hungarian SEMOULE (3 oz., sEMouLE -- Work 75 g. (3 tablespoons) butter in a bowl oz., 66 tat,les,poons) with aa spatula. process add 1I egg, spatula. During this (2t oz., g. (2i this process egg, 65 65 g. oz., scant scant tI cup) cup) semolina semolina and flour. Season Season with and 22 teaspoons fiour. with salt salt and pinch of grated nutmeg. and aa pinch of grated nutmeg. Work vigorously with Work vigorously with the the spatula spatula until the mixture is is slightly slightly frothy. frothy. Leave Leave to to stand for stand for 1I hour. Make Make large oval balls shaped with aa tablespoon put tablespoon and and put pan. Add boiling water them into a buttered pan. water and and leave leave to to simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Uses. Uses. For For soup. soup. Serge -- Very small small quartered cooked cooked artichokes artichokes simmered simmered in in butter; coarsely coarsely shredded ham ham simmered simmered in in Madeira. Ingredients prepared prepared àd la la Serge Serge are are dipped dipped in aa mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs mixed with chopped chopped truffles truffies and and mushrooms. Sauce. (see SAUCE) Sauce. Demi-glace sauce sauce (see flavoured with SAUCE) flavoured with Truffie essence essence (see ESSENCE). Uses. .S. veal cutlets); calves' (U.S. Uses. Escalopes of veal veal (U calves' sweetsweetbreads. Spun (lf pints, pints, generous Spun eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs FILÉS rnfs -- For generous For 1I litre litre (l~ quart) beat 1I egg quart) soup, soup, beat egg and and strain itit through through muslin. Put Put itit in aa fine pan containing fine strainer held held over aa frying pan containing boiling boiling consommé. consomm6. Move the strainer backwards and forwards over over Drain the prepared and the stock. Drain the threads threads of egg egg thus thus preparee! and add them to the soup. Uses. Uses. For soup. À la strasburrgeoise -- Braised sauerkraul; A sauerkraut: thin thin rectangles rectangles of salt salt (pickled) pork cooked with the the sauerkraut; sauerkraut; slices slices of of foie gras gras saut6ed in butter. butter. foie Sauce. Boiled-down pan juices of Sauce. Boiled-down of the the main main dish. dish.

(±

418 418

GASCONY GASCONY Uses. For For braised or pot-roasted pot-roasted poultry. poultry. A Àh la srltane sultane - Canapis Canapés of of chicken chicken forcemeat forcemeat (shaped like like cutlets) on on which which chicken chicken suprdmes suprêmes are are placed; placed; very very small sm ail tartlets tartlets filled with pur6e purée of trufres truffies with with pieces pieces of of blanched pistachio pistachio nut on top; cocks' combs. combs. SuprAmes Suprêmes prepared prepared dà la sultane sultane are dipped dipped in in aa mixture mixture of

A À la Valenciennes Valenciennes -- Rice Rice cooked in meat meat stock (or plain boiled boiled rice) rice) mixed with with aa salpicon salpicon of of sweet peppers. peppers. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices of of the the main main dish diluted diluted with with white white wine wine or or tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured thickened thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. For small cuts cuts of of meat meat or poultry. poultry. A À ta la Valois Valois -- Thinly Thinly sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and slices slices of of artichoke artichoke hearts hearts saut€ed sautéed together together in in butter, butter, served served in the terrine in in

breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and chopped truffies. truffles. Sauce. Sauce. Suprdme Suprême sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) very very slightly slightly seasoned seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Uses. For For supr4mes suprêmes of of chicken. chicken. Tomatoes. Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMA TES -- Peel Peel small, small, very very firm firm tomatoes, tomatoes, remove remove liquid liquid and and pips, pips, dice dice the the flesh flesh into into squares squares I1 cm. cm. (t inch) inch) across across and and add add these these to to boiling boiling consomm6. consommé. Leave Lea ve G to to simmer simmer for for 7 minutes minutes and and drain. drain. Uses. Add Add to to soup. soup. TortueTortue- Little Little veal veal quenelles; quenelles; stoned stoned olives; olives; mt',shrooms; mushrooms; sliced sliced truffies truffies and and gherkins; gherkins; freshwater freshwater crayfish crayfish cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon; court-bouillon; fried egg egg yolks; yolks; heart-shaped heart-shaped pieces pieces of of fried fried bread; bread; small small pieces pieces of of tongue tongue and and calves' ca Ives' brains. brains. Sauce. Sauce. Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For veal. veal. A À hla toscane toscane -- Thick Thick diced diced macaroni macaroni mixed mixed with with aa puree purée of of foie gras; gras; coarsely coarsely diced diced truffies truffies saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. foie Ingredients Ingredients prepared prepared d à la la toscane toscane must must be be dipped dipped in in aa mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sauce. Sauce. Thickened Thickened veal veaJ stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For escalopes escalopes (U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; calves' calves' sweetsweetbreads; breads; breasts breasts of of chicken. chicken. A À h )a toulousaine, toulousaine, also a)so called caUed ià la la Toulouse Toulouse -- Chicken Chicken quenelles; quenelles; cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys; kidneys; braised braised lamb lamb or or calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; mushrooms; mushrooms; shredded shredded truffies. truffies. The The elements elements of of this this garnish garnish are are arranged arranged in in separate separa te groups groups and and sometimes sometimes include include chicken chicken livers livers saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Uses. Uses. For For calves' calves' sweetbreads; sweetbreads; poultry; poultry; savoury savoury pies; pies; tartsl tarts; vol-au-vent. vol-au- vent. AÀ h la trouvitlaise trouvillaise -- Shelled Shelled shrimps; shrimps; mussels; mussels; mushrooms. mushrooms. Sauce. Sauce. Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Uses. Uses. For For fish. fish. Trufres. Truffles. TRUFFES TRUFFES -- This This garnish garnish isis very very occasionally occasionally added added to to soups. soups. Shred Shred fresh fresh trufles truffies into into fine fine strips, strips, or or dice dice them them into into small small squares. squares. Put Put these these in in the the boiling boiling soup soup at at the the last last minute. minute. The The heat heat of of the the soup soup is is sufficient sufficient to to cook cook the the truffies. truffies. AÀ Ia la tyrolienne tyrolienne -- Tomatoes Tomatoes cut cut into into quarters quarters and and cooked cooked slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender; tender; onion onion rings rings fried fried in in oil. oil. Sauce. Sauce. Reduced Reduced veal veal stock stock with with butter butter added. added. Uses. Uses. For For grilled grilled cuts cuts of of meat meat or or poultry. poultry.

which which the the meat meat is is cooked. cooked. Sauce. Sauce. Pan Pan juices juices with with white white wine wine added added and and veal veal stock stock with with butter butter added. added. Uses. For For small small cuts of of meat. meaL Au Au vert-pr6 vert-pré -- Matchstick Matchstick potatoes; potatoes; watercress. watercress. Sauce. Sauce. Mattre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Uses. For small small cuts cuts of of meat meat and and poultry, poultry, grilled. grilled. Uses. For Victoria Victoria -- Small Small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed with with pur6e purée of mushmushrooms; rooms; quartered quartered artichokes artichokes simmered simmered in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Meat Meat juices juices of of the the main main dish dish blendd blended with with Madeira Madeira or or port port and and thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. meaL A À ta la viennoilse viennoise - Whites Whites and and yolks yolks of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg. chopped chopped separately; separately; anchovy anchovy fillets; fillets; stoned stoned olives; olives; rounds rounds of of lemon lemon with with rind rind and and skin skin removed; removed; capers; capers; chopped chopped parsley, parsley. All All these these ingredients ingredients are are aranged arranged round round the the dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. Sauce. Sauce. Brown Brown butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat meat or or poultry. poultry. This This garnish garnish isis especially especially suitable suitable for for cutlets cutlets (U.S. (U.S. chops) chops) and and escalopes escalopes (U.S. (U.S. cutlets) cutlets) of of veal; veal; breasts breasts of of poultry, poultry, dipped dipped in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. It It can can also also be be served served with with fillets fillets of of fish, fish, chiefly crueBy brill brill (U.S. (U.S. flounder) Bounder) and and sole. sole. Vladimir Vladimir -- Cucumbers Cucumbers cut cut in in small small oval oval lengths lengths and and simsimmered mered in in butter; butter; very very small small vegetable vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes, (courgettes, zucchinis) zucchinis) coarsely coarsely diced, diced, saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Sauce. Sauce. Stock Stock of of the the main main dish dish blended blended with with sour sour cream, cream, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, and and with with grated grated horseradish horseradish sprinkled sprinkled on on top. top. Uses. Uses. For For small small cuts cuts of of meat. meaL

GARUM GARUM -- Type Type of of condiment, condiment, much mu ch used used as as aa spice spice in in ancient ancient Roman Roman cookery. cookery. It It was was probably probably pickling pickling brine brine derived derived from from salting salting seawater seawater fish fish -- scomber scomber or or mackerel mackerel in in particular particular -- and and squeezing squeezing them them to to extract extract the the liquid. liquid. The The best best known, known, extracted extracted from from scomber, scomber, was was called called garwn garum nigrum.It nigrum. It was was put put in in little little pots, pots, as as mustard mustard isis nowanowadays, days, and and each each guest guest flavoured flavoured itit to to his rus own own liking, liking, one one with with vinegar vinegar (oenogarum), (oenogarum), another another with with water water (hydrogarum), (hydrogarum), another another with with oil oil (oleogarum). (oleogarum). The The garum garum piperatum piperatum was, was, as as its its name name indicates, indicates, strongly strongJy flavoured flavoured with with pepper. pepper.

GASCONY. GASCONY. cAscocNE GASCOGNE

Ancient province province which which once once -- Ancient included included the the Landes, Landes, Basque, Basque, Chalosse, Chalosse, Condomois, Condomois, ArmagArmagnac, nac, Comminges, Comminges, Couserans, Couserans, Lomagne, Lomagne, Astarac Astarac and and Bigorre Bigorre districts districts and and part part of of the the Bordelais Bordelais and and Bazadais Bazadais districts. districts. ItIt has has always always been been aa land land of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic repute. repute. The The inhabitants inhabitants have have maintained maintained the the cult cult of ofgood good eating eating in in the départements which which have have been been formed formed within within the the the dipartements boundaries boundaries of of Gascony Gascony -- Hautes-Pyr6n6es, Hautes-Pyrénées, Gers, Gers, Landes, Landes, part part of of the the Basses-Pyr6n6es, Basses-Pyrénées, Haute Haute Garonne, Garonne, Lot-etLot-etGaronne Garonne and and Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. Gallimaufry Gallimaufry was was created created in in this this region. region. This This isis the the dish dish for for which which Taillevent, Taillevent, master master chef chefof ofKing King Charles Charles VII, VII, gave gave the the recipe, recipe, and and the the name name of ofwhich, wruch, no-one no-one quite quite knows knows why, why, has has become become aa synonym synonym for for aa bad bad stew. stew. this province Culinaryspecialities specialities-- The The good good things things of ofthis province are are Culinaly many. They They include include the the hams hams of of the the Landes Landes and and of of Ossau, Ossau, many. eaten eaten raw rawlike like those those of ofParma, Parma, or orused used rnfricassis infricassés of ofvarious various

Garnish Debillot. Phot. Garnish dàlalatvrolienne tyrolienne( (Debi//ot. Phot. Larousse\ Larousse)

4t9 419

GASTRONOME GASTRONOME

Bouiffoh of goose

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1- Choudiru, (lmcfctte landoi* i--_ ----'-l Tripe,

Ortolans T4ANDES

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Il

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goose livers kinds; goose livers and and duck kinds; duck livers; buntings; preserves of goose and and of of pork; savoury goose pork; the sa voury oysters of Cap Breton; and the potted and pdtds and and, truffled trffiedfoie the potted meats and foie gras of the Gers, the Landes and and the ..... Lot-et-Garonne. "'L-....,L-'-'al Nor must we forget Madarin wine and the rich and heady Nor heady Armagnac.

The Académie des psychologues &t du go,frt gout is IS called The Acadimie des psychologues called the 'Jockey club of eating' and was was founded in in 1922.It 1922. It counts members. many ambassadors ambassadors among its members. Académie Rabelais Rabelais groups together writers, writers, painters, The Acadimie and designers interestod interested in food. The Association amicale amicale des des amateurs amateurs d'authentiques d'authentiques The Association the most most rigid and and most most exandouillettes (A.A.A.A.A.) is the clusive (five members) members) of the gastronomic associations. associations. Its members believe believe in simple, substantial and wholesome wholesome fare. members designed by by Henry Monier, is awarded to A rare diploma, designed the mo'st mos! outstanding amphytryons amphytryons of of the A.A.A.A.A. A.A.A.A.A. The The Association Association des gastronomes gastronomes amateurs amateurs de de poisson poisson (1937) (1937) is the fish lovers' association. association. The Association des gastronomes gastronomes rigionalistes régionalistes (1924) is the The of gastronomes gastronomes interested in regional regional cookery. cookery. association of Table was founded by by the engraver and painter painter The Belle Table itself as as much with with the the d6cor décor of Georges Villa. It concerns itself the table as with with the food food servod served thereon. thereon. the Club de la casserole, founded founded by by Ren6 René Lasserre, Lasserre, is is the the The Club gourmet club club of fashionable fashionable Paris. Paris. Its Its insignia insignia is is a a tiny tiny saucepan key key ring. ring. Its formal formaI galas, which which ,include fashion saucepan include fashion haute couture, coffires, furs and jewels, Lttract shows of haute many of the the leading personalities of stage and screen. The many grand grand finale finale ofa of a typical gala gala is is the the release release of of doves. doves. At the the Club Club des des gourmettes, gourmettes, the the conversation conversation isis of ofcooking, cooking, At and the the members members really really know know what what they they are are talking talking about. about. and The The Club Club Prosper-Montagni Prosper-Montagné is is where where restaurateurs, restaurateurs, ppâtissières, and similar similar foregather. foregather. d t is siir e s, ccharcutiers, har cut ie r s, and The The Club Club des des purs purs cent cent isis aa splinter spI inter group group of of the the Club Club des des numbers about about flfty fifty gourmets. gOlurrnet.s. cent and numbers cent The Commanderie Commanderie des des cordons-bleus, in in Dijon, Dijon, awards awards The diplomas to to the the best best restaurateurs. restaurateurs. diplomas The Compagnie Compagnie des des gentilshommes gentilshommes de de gueule gueule (1928) (1928) The organises monthly monthly informal informaI dinners dinners presided presided over over by by aa organises cultured and and refined reflned speaker. speaker. cultured

GASTRONOME GASTRONOME -- Slightly pedantic term, dating back back to the beginning of the nineteenth century, signifying '" onllv,,.,o experts in gastronomy. Genuine connoisseurs connoisseurs in matters of good food are satisfied with the the name gourmand which, though normnormally ally translated as'greedy', as 'greedy', has no derogatory overtones in French. French. The The true gastronome, while while esteeming esteeming the most most refined products products of the culinary arts, arts, enjoys them in moderation, moderation, and, and, for for his his normal normal fare, seeks seeks out out the simplest dishes. While he not himself himself a practitioner practitioner of of the culinary art, he knows he is not enough enough of of its methods to to be be able able to to pass pass judgment judgment on aa dish and which itit is and to to recognise recognise the ingredients ingredients of ofwhich is composed. composed.

GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC ASSOCIATIONS. ASSOCIATIONS. cAsrRoNoMreuEs GASTRONOMIQUES (lcnofrvrns, AssocrATroNs, Académie ASSOCIATIONS, cRor;pnurNrs) GROUPEMENTS) - The Acadimie des Gostronomes was founded by Curnonsky Curnonsky in in 1927. 1927. lt It Gastronomes was admits admits forty fort y members, members, consisting consisting of of gourmets, gourmets, lovers lovers of of goodfood, good food, culinarywriters, culinary writers, and and amphitryons. Each Each occupies occupies the the seat seat of of a a former great gourmet and upon upon election election is is called upon to to deliver deliver an address in honour honour of of his his preprecalled upon decessor. decessor. But But the the Acadimie Académie des des Gastronomes Gastronomes was was not not the the first first of of its its kind. kind. Without Without going so so far far back back as as the the ancient ancient confriries,the confréries, the earliest earliest of of the the modern associations associations is is the the Chb Club des des cent cent

founded founded n in l9l2 1912 by by the the gourmand-journalist Louis Louis Forest. Forest. The The Club Club des des cent cent is is aa very very active active body with with its its own own conficonfidential dential (and (and very very severe) severe) personal personal guide. guide. ItIt awards awards diplomas, diplomas, but but rarely. rarely. ItIt awards awards aa substantial substantial gastronomic gastronomic literary literary prize prize annually. annually.

420 420

GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC CUSTOMS CUSTOMS Frogs. Frogs. July. July. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel, pike, pike, gudgeon, gudgeon, tencho tench, trout, trout, salmon (rare). (rare), gurnet, Sea Sea fish: shad, bass, bass, cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream, smelt smelt (rare), gurnet, salmon mackerel, mackerel, plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines, sole sole (rare), (rare), tuna, tuna, salmon trout, trou t, turbot. Frogs. grayling, carp, grayling, August. Freshwater Freshwater fish: fish: eel, eel, bream, bream, pike, pike, carp, perch, tench, river trout. river trout. gurnet Sea fish: fish: bass, brill brill (rare), (rare), cod, cod, sea sea bream, bream, smelt, smelt, gurnet (rare), salmon salmon sole (rare), (rare), (rare), mackerel, plaice, plaice, ray, ray, sardines, sardines, sole trout. trout, turbot. c&tP, Freshwater fish: September. Freshwater fish: eel, eel, bream, bream, pike, pike, carp, grayling, perch, tench, river trout. tench, river trout. (rare), brill smelt, sea bream, bream, smelt, cod, sea brill (rare), cod, Sea fish: bass bass (rare), (rare), turbot turbot trout (rare), (rare), plaice, salmon trout ray, sole, salmon gurnet (rare), plaice, ray, (rare). (rare). carp, bream, pike, carp, barbel, bream, fish: eel, eel, barbel, October. Freshwater fish: October. river trout trout (rare). perctr, tench, tench, river gudgeon, grayling, perch, (rare), smelt, (rare), sea smelt, sea bream bream (rare), brill (rare), Sea fish: bass (rare), brill sole, salmon salmon plaice, ray, ray, sole, (rare), herring, cod, plaice, gurnet (rare), dab, cod, herring, dab, gurnet (rare). trout (rare), turbot (rare). pike, carp, carp' bream, pike, eel, barbel, bream, November. Freshwater fish: eel, perch, tench. gudgeon, grayling, perch, gurnet, smelt, gurnet, brill, gilthead (rare), smelt, Sea fish: bass (rare), brill, trout salmon trout cod, plaice, ray, sole, salmon whiting, cod, dab, whiting, herring, dab, herring, (rare), turbot (rare). pike, carp, carp, bream, pike, barbel, bream, fish: eel, eel, barbel, Freshwater fish: December. Freshwater gudgeon, grayling, perch, tench. (rare), smelt. sturgeon, smelt, sturgeon, sea bream bream (rare), brill, sea Sea fish: bass (rare), brill, plaice, ray, ray' sole, sole, mullet, plaice, cod, mullet, whiting, cod, gurnet, herring, dab, whiting, turbot. salmon trout (rare), turbot. March. February, March. January, February, cRusrAcfs -- January, Crustaceans. CRUSTACÉS Lobster, crayfish. shrimps, prawns, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster, crayfish, April and May. Lobster, freshwater crayfish. freshwater prawns, shrimps, shrimps, freshwater Crab, prawns, July, August. Crab, June, July, June, crayfish. crayfish. prawns, shrimps, shrimps, crab, prawns, crayfish, crab, Lobster, crayfish, September. September. Lobster, crayfish. freshwater crayfish. freshwater crayfreshwater crayLobster, freshwater December. Lobster, November, December. October, November, October, fish. fish. April, March, April, January, February, March, MoLLUsQuEsMolluscs. MOLLUSQUES - January, MoUuscs. to say say the the December (that isis to November, December October, November, September, September, October, mussels. Oysters, mussels. name). Oysters, 'r' inin their their name). an 'r' months with an months with

The Confririe Confrérie de de la la pochouse pochouse extol extol this this eminent eminent regional regional The dish of of Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. Verdun-sur-le-Doubs. dish Échansonnes de de France France is is an an association association of of female female The iichansonnes gourmands reluctant reJuctant to to leave Jeave all ail there there is is to to say say about about wine wine to gourmands men alone. aJone. men The Fin Fin Palais Palais (1927) (1927) is Îs an an association association of of gourmand gourmand The lawyers. lawyers. The Galants Galants de de la la verte verte marennes marennes wed wed their their oysters oysters to the the The whole range range of of white white wines wines of of the the territory. territory. whole The Sociiti Société de gastronomie gastronomie mddicale médicale groups together together the The gourmets. medical gourmets. medical The Taste-Moungettes of Comminges extol extol the the haricot The beans of the the region, indispensable indispensa ble ingredient of of the the casbeans soulet, the the Luchon pistache pistache and several other dishes. soulet,

CALENDAR. GASTRONOMIC CALENDAR.

cALENDRIER CALENDRIER GAsrRoNoGASTRONO-

period of the Below, month by month, is the best period year to to eat ea t the following following in France: year VIANDES DE BoucHERre BOUCHERiE - All Ali the year round. round. Beef, Beer, Meat. vIANDEs mu Hon, veal. mutton, Ali the the year round round except July, August. Pork. AII Al! the year year round except except July, July, August and September. All Lamb. Lamb. goose, pigeon, Poultry. voLAILLEsVOLAILLEs-January. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon. January. Duck, Poultry. guinea fowl, chicken. guinea chicken. poulard. fowl, poulard. turkey, pigeon, guinea fowl, February. Duck, turkey, March. Duck, pigeon, poulard. poulard. poulard, chicken. April. Duck, pigeon, poulard, May, June. Duck, goose, pigeon, pigeon, poulard, chicken. May,June. Duck, turkey, goose, pigeon, guinea goose, pigeon, July Duck, turkey, turkey, goose, to December. December. Duck, July to fowl, poulard, poulard, chicken. Game. t, venison, venison, quail, rabbit, Hutch rabbi January. Hutch cIBIER -- January. Game. GIBiER grouse, woodcock, curlew, grouse, wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wild woodcock, snipe, ployer, plover, teal. February, snipe, caperHutch rabbit, woodcock, snipe, March. Hutch February, March. caillie, wild duck, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, duck, curlew, curlew, April. wild duck, duck, curlew, snipe, capercaillie, wiJd April. Woodcock, Woodcock, snipe, grouse, plover, teal. May Capercaillie, grouse, plover, teal. May to to August. August. Capercaillie, September venison, rabbit, venison, hutch rabbit, Hare, hutch to December. December. Hare, September to wild partridge, capercaillie, wild quail, pheasant, pheasant, woodcock, woodcock, capercaillie, partridge, quail, duck, curlew, grouse, plover, teal. curlew, grouse, polssoNs -- January. Fisb. barbel, fish: eel, eel, barbel, January. Freshwater fish: Fish. POISSONS bream, tench. salmon, tench. bream, carp, perch, salmon, (rare), smelt, Sea smelt, (rare), brill, plaice, sea sea bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, fish: bar (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, sturgeon, whiting, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot. cod, turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, cod, mullet, mullet, ray, perch, salmon. salmon' gudgeon, perch, fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, Freshwater fish: February. Freshwater (rare), smelt, smelt, (rare), brill, sea bream bream (rare), brill, plaice, sea Sea fish: bar (rare), sturgeon, (rare), whiting, cod, whiting, cod, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, herring, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, mullet. (rare), turbot. turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout sole, salmon ray, sardines, sardines, sole, mullet, ray, March. gudgeon, salmon. salmon. fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, March. Freshwater Freshwater fish: Sea smelt, (rare), briJl, plaice, sea sea bream, bream, smelt, brill, plaice, fish: shad shad (rare), Sea fish: (rare), whiting, ~""b~~'~' cod, whiting, cod, mackerel (rare), gurnet, herring, dab, dab, mackerel sturgeon, gurnet, (rare), turbot. (rare), salmon turbot. trout (rare), salmon trout mullet, ray, sardines, sardines, sole (rare), April. river trout. trout' gudgeon, salmon, salmon, river fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, April.Freshwater fish: (rare), Sea smelt (rare), plaice, sea bream, smeJt sea bream, bass, brill, brill, plaice, fish: shad, shad, bass, Sea fish: sturgeon, ray, mullet, ray, cod, muUet, whiting, cod, gurnet, dab, mackerel, whiting, dab, mackerel, sturgeon, gurnet, sardines, turbot. salmon trout, trout, turbot. sole (rare), salmon sardines, sole river trout. trout. salmon, river eel, gudgeon, salmon, May.Freshwater fish:: eel, Sea . shad, (rare), gurnet, smelt (rare), sea bream, smelt cod, sea bass,cod, shad, bass, Sea fish: dab, sole (rare), ray, sardines, sardines, sole mullet, ray, dab, mackerel, mackerel, whiting, mullet, tuna, trout, turbot. salmon trout, tuna. salmon June. (rare), tench, tench, gudgeon, salmon salmon(rare), fish: eel, eel, gudgeon, Freshwater fish: June. Freshwater river river trout. trout. Sea (rare), gurnet, smelt (rare), bream, smelt cod, sea sea bream, bass,cod, Sea fish: fish: shad, shad, bass, mackerel, tuna, sole (rare), tuna, ray, sardines, sardines, sole mackerel, mullet, mullet, plaice, ray, salmon, salmon, trout, trout, turbot.

-

MIQUE MIeLJE

cAsrRoNoMIQLrEs usAcES GASTRONOMIQUESCUSTOMS. USAGES GASTRONOMIC GASTRONOMIC CUSTOMS. period and and the the to the the period according to vary according customs vary Gastronomic Gastronomic customs

country. country. the only the person admits as orthodox orthodox only admits as The The narrow-minded narrow-minded person and accustomed, and he isis accustomed, to which which he seasonings to methods methods and and seasonings of the theart art of of conception of different conception who have have aadifferent considers those who considers those quite barbarous. barbarous. eating eating quite salad. quite usual sugar to to aasalad. to add addsugar places itit isis quite usual to In In sorne some places authorities, French authorities, certainFrench exclaim certain Heresy! Abomination! exclaim Heresy! Abomination! add the ordinary ordinary totoadd out of of the nothing out who think itit nothing nevertheless think who nevertheless (lamb's lettuce lettuce or or ofmâche mdche (lamb's toaasaI salad slices ad of beetroot to slices of ofsweet sweet beetroot cookedfruit fruit sweet cooked in England, sweet and in corn In Germany salad). In Germany and corn salad). denounce same cri critics meat, and and thesame isisoften tics denounce the meat, servedwith with the often served garnish of permitaagarnish yet they of would permit this they would taste; yet depraved taste; this depraved fruit mu much (which isisnothing offruit butaa pur6eof nothing but chestnut ch chestnut puree (which orseasonseasonsweeter somecooked cooked apples or cranberries),or sweeter than sorne orregaling regaling venison with redcurrant jelly,or haunch of ofvenison ing aa haunch racines or auxracines or or caillesaux I'orangeor thf~m~~e]1,es canetonàdl'orange with caneton themselves with fruits. garnished with with sweet sweetfruits. other dishes garnished savourydishes other savoury not the thesame sameeveryevery' arenot gastronomic usages usagesare In Inany any case casegastronomic provincefound found each province ofeach description of where and the thedescription France,and where ininFrance, thisc1early. clearly. shows this ordershows inin this alphabetical order thisdictionary dictionary ininalphabetical 421 421

GATEAU GÂTEAU Not only preparations different only are are the the culinary culinarypreparations different but butthe theway way Not the food food isisserved served and and the the arrangement arrangement of ofthe the meals meals vary. vary. the Thus in in Flanders Flandersitit isisthe the established established custom customto toserve serve soup soupatat Thus the beginning beginning of principal meal of the the principal mealof of the the day. day. In In other other the regions the the habit habit of of drinking drinking aa trou trou de demilieu milieuor, or, inin NorNorregions mandy, aa trou persisted. trou Normande, Normande, has has persisted. mandy, The trou trou de de milieu miliat consists consists of ofserving, serving, in inthe the middle middle of of the the The generally before meal, generally before the the service service of glasses of the theroast, roast, small small glasses meal, of spirituous spirituous liqueurs liqueurs of of various various kinds; kinds; Cognac, Cognac,Armagnac, Armagnac, of quetsche, Calvados, marc, quetsche, Calvados, kirsch, kirsch, etc. etc. In In the the south-west south-west of of marc, France, where where this this custom custom used used to to be be traditional, traditional, the young the young France, daughter of of the the house house offered guests these offered the theguests placed these liqueurs liqueurs placed daughter great sil on aa great silver tray. on ver tray. practice, although In modem modern practice, although the the custom custom of of the the trou trou de de In persists in miliat still still persists parts, the some parts, in sorne the sorbet, still made sorbet, still made with with aa milieu liqueur or base of of liqueur or liqueur liqueur wine, wine, has has for for the part taken the most most part taken base place. its place. its

finelysliced slicedshallot, shallot,chopped chopped chervil cherviland andaacup cupofoficed icedwater. finely water. Leavetotosoak soakfor for30 30minutes. minutes.Ten Tenminutes minutesbefore Leave beforeserving, serving, add thinly thinlysliced slicedcucumber, cucumber, slices slicesof ofbread, bread,more add morewater, water,ifif necessary,and andcubes cubesof ofice. ice.Serve Servevery necessary, verycold. cold.

GEANS CHERRIES. CHERRIES. GUIGNES curcNEs- - Species Speciesofofred, red,black, GEANS black,oror white cherry. cherry.They arefirm firmand Theyare andfairly fairlysweet. white sweet. Geansare mainly used aremainly usedin inFrance Francetotomake makeaaliqueur liqueur called Geans called Guignolet, which which isisaaspeciality specialityof ofthe thetown townofofAngers. Guignolet, Angers. GEBIE Smallshellfish, shellfish, whitish whitishinincol GE BlE -- Small our, found colour, foundininFrench French coastal waters. waters. ItIt can can be becooked cooked like coastal likeshrimps, shrimps, and andisisused used mainlyas asbait baitfor for large largefish. mainly fish.

GELATINE. GÉLATINE cfrernrE - - Amorphous, GELATINE. Amorphous,colourless colourless solid, solid, without smell, smell, which which swells without swells ininwater. water.When Whenmixed mixedininhot hot water, itit forms jellywhen forms aaviscous viscous substance water, substance which which turns turnstotojelly when provided that the mixture mixture isiscold, cold, provided the that itit has has not not been beenallowed allowed toto boil for for too too long. long. boil produced by Gelatineisis produced Gelatine by the the action action of of heat heat upon uponaasubsubstance contained contained ininbones, stance bones,cartilage cartilage and and tendons. tendons. ItItisisused used inin jellies. preparation of the preparation the of jellies. gelatine. GRÉNÉTlNE Leaf gelatine. Leaf A pure cnfNfrrxn --A pureand and transparent transparent form form of of gelatine used pharmacy and gelatine used in in pharmacy and cookery. cookery.

SCC CAKE. GATEAU -- See CAKE. GÂTEAU

given in GAUDES -- The The na name in Franche-Comté, Franche-Comt6, Burgundy, Burgundy, GAUDES me given and other other districts districts to to aa kind kind of porridge or of maize maizr flour flour porridge or and pudding somewhat somewhat similar polenta, or similar to to the the Italian Italian polenta, or toto pudding hasty-pudding. hast y-pudding. gaudes. GAUDES Franche-Cont6 gaudes. cAUDES DE DE FRANCHE-COMTÉ FRANcHE-corrlrE -- Pour Pour Franche-Comté (3 quarts, into aa saucepan saucepan containing quarts, 7i pints) containing Ji 3f litres litres (3 7} pints) into (18 oz., g. (18 salted boiling boiling water, water, 500 500 g. oz., 33 cups) cups) maize maize flour flour which which salted has been mixed in in cold been mixed cold water water to to aa smooth smooth consistency. Mix consistency. Mix has pudding, stirring well. Cook this pudding. Cook this stirring constantly constantly with with aa large large weIl. wooden spoon, spoon, until g. (4 (4 oz., until itit isis thick. thick. Add Add 100 100 g. oz., ~i cup) cup) wooden butter, Serve Serve hot. hot. butter. this pudding, after after itit isis cooked, poured into cooked, isis poured into Sometimes this where it it isis left left to to cool. cool. It It isis th then cut into into slices slices en cut small bowls where which are heated in in butter and and sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine sugar. sugar. gaudes may The gaudes may also also be be served servod cold, cold, in in which which case case the the The pourod into mou is poured gaudes moulds. When the the gaudes maize flour mixture is Ids. When cooled, they they are are turned turned out out of of the the moulds and eaten and eaten have cooled, with sugar. (A LA) GAULOISE (À garnish consisting of tA) -- Name used for aa garnish GAUWISE of combs and and kidneys which which is is served served with cocks' combs with cJear clear soup soup (see SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTH$. (see SOUPS It is used, too, for aa garnish served with It used, too, with large large and small and small vol-au-vent cocks' kidneys as vo/-au-vent or pies, pies, having cocks' as its chief ingretongue and truffies added. dient, with pickled pickled ton gue and added. This filling filling is blended (see SAUCE) Suprdme sauce sauce (see blended in in Suprême SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. The name is used for for little cakes is used cakes made made of Genoa cake nrixture mixture (see CAKE, Genoa cake) cake) cooked cookd. in special moulds (moules (mou/es d à diplomates), dipromates), spread jam and spread with apricot jam grilled and grilled chopped almonds.

GELOSE. GÉLOSE GELOSE. cfir.osr -- Synonym Synonym of ofagar-agar. agar-agar. AA viscous viscous subsubstance extracted extracted from from certain stance uch used certain marine marinealgae. algae. M Much used in in Japan in preparation of jellies. in the the preparation Japan of fruit fruit and and other other jellies. GENDARME GEIYDARME -- French popular name French popular pickled herring. name for for pickled herring. This name This name isis also given to also given to aa type type of of sausage, sausage,dry dry and and very very hard, which hard, which isis made made in in Switzerland Switzerland and and bears bears sorne some slight slieht resemblance resemblance to to aa herring herring in in appearance. appearance. GENEVOISE GENEVOISE SAUCE SAUCT -- Sauce, Sauce, originally originallycalled called Génoise, Gdnoise, served served only only with with fish. fish. ItIt jsis flavoured (See flavoured with with red red wine. wine. (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) GENISTA a number GENISTA (Broom). cBwEr- Botanical Botanical name name for fora number of of @room). GENÊTplants of of the the broom family. They broom family. They have have butterfly-like butterfly-like flowers. flowers. Broom Broom buds buds are are sometimes pickled in sometimes pickled vinegar and in vinegar as and used used as aa substitute substitute for for capers. capers. GENOESE. GENOESE. GÉNOISE c6Norsr -- Génoise Ginoise was was the the name name of of aa sauce sauce served served only only with with fish fish cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon (salmon and court-bouillon (salmon and salmon salmon trout trout in particular). Nowadays, in particular). Nowadays, this this sauce sauce isis caUed called Genevoise. Geneyoise. In In confectionery, cakes cakes made from aa Genoese made from Genoese mixture mixture are are caUed called Genoese cakes. cakes. pArE À Genoese Genoese cake I. PÂTÉ A GÉNOISE cake J. cENorsE -- Ingredients. ( 1 8 oz., g. (18 ftg," e dient s. 500 500 g. oz., 2i cups) sieved 2f cups) fine sugar, (lS oz., g. (18 sugar, 500 500 g. oz., 4~ g. sieved flour, flour, 500 500 g. $cups) (18 oz., 2i 2ol cups) butter, butter, 16 16 eggs, eggs, aa pinch of vanilla bean. of salt, salt, 1I vanilla bean.

GAYETTES (Provençal cookery) cookery)Type of offlat GA YETfES (Provemgal flat sausage sausage made - Type ofpork of pork liver liver and fresh bacon bacon encased encased in pork pork caul and cooked in in the oven. oyen. They are generally served cold, as (See as an an hors-d'uuvre. hors-d'œuvre. (See PORK, PORK, Pork Pork liver /iver gayettes.) gayettes.) GAZELLE -- Antelope Antelope found in northern northem and western western Asia GAZELLE in central central Africa. Africa. and in gazelle is The meat meat of of the the gazelle is very good to eat. It should first The be left in aa mild mild marinade. marinade. All Ali the recipes recipes appropriate to be roebuck (q.v.) and venison (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for gazelle. roebuck

Gazelle Gazelle (Grün) (Griin)

GAZPACHO (Spanish (Spanish cookery). cookery). cAspAcHo GASPACHO GAZPACHO

Soup-salad -- Soup-salad fresh cucumber, cucumber, tomatoes, tomatoes, sweet sweet peppers, peppers, and made of fresh made slices of of bread bread moistened moistened with with water. water. slices Soak the the skinned, skinned, sliced, and and deseeded deseeded tomatoes, and the the Soak sliced, deseeded deseeded peppers peppeTs in in aa dressing dressing prepared prepared as follows: sliced, Pound in in aa mortar mortar 22 cloves cl oves of of garlic. garlic. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, Pound and aa little little cumin. cumin. Blend Blend with with oil oil and vinegar; vinegar; add a little and 422 422

GHERKIN GHERKIN Genme Genoese cehe cake with witb fiIliry fiIling ià la la normonde. oormaude. c&Nols GÉNOISE FouxRfo FOURRÉE iÀ round round Genoese cake cake horizontally horizontally into into 2layers 2 layers ofequal of equal thickness. thickness. Moisten Moisten the the halv,esw,ith halves with Calvados. Calvapos. Spread Spread one half half with with thick thick apple jam jam mixod mixed with with half half its its weight of of Frenchpastry French pastry cream crUlm (see (see CRFAMS) CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with Spread Calvados. Place half of of the cake on on top. top. Spread Place the other half icing (see apricot jam jam over over the the cake and and ice ice with Forlant Fondant icing (see quartered ICING) ICING) flavoured with Calvados. Decorate with with quartered of apples cookod cooked in syrup, halves of almonds, and lozpngss lozenges of angelica. angelica. sweral cENTIANE GENTIAN. GENTIANE - General General name name given given to to several gentian, as as well well' The large species of of plants. The large gentian or yellow yellow gentian, preparation of of of this as other other flowers of tbis family, are used used in the preparation is distilled distilled certain ap6ritifs. Gentiane, aa digestive liqueur, certain apéritifs. liqueur, is has aa and has Switzerland, and France and from in France and Switzerland, from the the gentian gentian in distinctive distinctive taste much prized in these countries. gentim is is treatOO of the gentian root of treated either bitter-tasting root The large, bitter-tasting infusion. by soaking or infusion. (Earth,eater). GÉOPHAGE AmericEoPnAcE -- Certain Certain AmeriGEOPHAGIST (Eartb-eater). GEOPHAGISf of clay clay soil. soil. to eat eat aa type of scarcity can Indians in times of scarci ty used used to only to to create create an an value, and and serves serves only has no no food food value, This soil soil has This illusion of satiety. are there are and America, there In different different parts of Asia, Africa, and ln yellow races rac€s are are especially especially geophagists. The yellow whole tribes of geophagists. has been been peculiar custom, although itit has custom, although to this this peculiar addicted to addicted ethnic peoples belonging to to other other ethnic in several several peoplesbelonging observed in observed all latitudes. in almost aIl found in groups. Geophagists are to be found groups. for the food for and Sumatra, Sumatra, the clay which provides food In Java and Accord: preparation in advance. advance. Accordsome preparation inhabitants undergoes sorne inhabitants after ail all paste with water after is mixed into aa paste to Hekmeyer, it is ing to other hard (such as stones and and other sand and and stones as sand bodies (such foreign bodies foreign into thin thin rolled out out into It isi.s then then rollOO removed. ft have been been removed. matter) have matter) fire. pan over aa charcol;ll charcoal tire. in an an iron pan and baked baked in cakes and

Method. Method. Put Put the the sugar, sugar, eggs, eggs, salt, salt, and and vanilla vanilla bean bean in in aa pan and whisk whisk over over very very gentle gentle heat. heat. When When the the mixture mixture begins begins to and foam and and rise ri se well well up up in the the pan, pan, remove remove from the the stove stove and

LA LA NoRMANpeNORMANDE- Slice Slice a

continue whisking whisking until it is is cold. Still beating beating the mixture, mixture, continue add the the flour, flour, using using a dredger, and the the butter, butter, which should be melted melted and tepid. tepid. be into baking tins tins and and bake bake in in the oven oyen at at 190'C. 190 c C. Pour into (375"F., (375°F., Gas Mark 5) for 40 to 45 minutes. Geooese cake II. n. pArE PÂTÉ A À cENoIsr GÉNOISE A À L'ANcIENNu L'ANCIENNE - Ingre' IngreGenoese dients. 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) fine sugar, 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., dients.500 oz., I1 cup) 4i- cups) sieved flour, flour, 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz., cup) sweet almonds, 4| (l oz.,2t oz., 2t tablespoons) bitter bitter almonds, 300 g. g. (ll (II oz., 25 g. (1 11 cups) butter, 12 eggs, eggs, small pinch of salt. l{ Method. M ethod. Blanch and pound the the almonds to to a fine powder powder in sugar, eggs. Add the sugar, a mortar. Put in a bowl and mix in 2 eggs. flour, flour, and and 5 whole whole eggs. eggs. Beat with a a wooden spoon for 5 butter, and the remainminutes. Add 5 egg yolks, the melted butter, beaten. ing whites, beaten. mixture into buttered baking baking tins tins and bake bake in a hot Put the mixture oyen. oven. Bake a L'ABRIcor -- Bake GÉNOISE A À L'ABRICOT Apricot Geooese cake. c6Nots Apricot Genoese cake. Genoese cake. cake. Slice it horizontally into into 33 layers of equal Slice it jam through siwe and flavour thickness. Rub Rub apricot apricotjam through a sieve flavour it with with thickness. the middle cake. Cover layer of cake. kirsch. Spread on 1I layer Co ver with the kirsch. Spread on jam. Set the last slice carefully carefully on slice. Spread with apricot apricot jam. together as top of of the other. See that the edges of the cake fit togetber possible. neatly as possible. jam, and and Spread the top and sides of of the cake with apricot jam, flavoured with kirsch. ice it with with a Fondant icing (see ICING) flavouFed and chopped chopped The The cake be sprinkled with blanched and cake may may be almonds, and pistachio nuts or pistachio nuts chopped browned browned almonds, with chopped or with Roy al icing (see ICING). decorated fruits or Royal decorated with crystallised fruits

potatoes, especially potatoes, for certain certain foods, especially GEORGETTEGEORGETTE- Name for crayfish tails. freshwater crayfish of freshwater ragofit of tails. stuffed with aa ragoût which are stuffed which

Germon

(tuna) sometimes for tunny sometimes also also Another name name for tunny (tuna) GERMON-- Another GERMON fish. its resemblance resemblanoe to to that that fish. of its called white tunny, tunny, because because of ca lied white germon, which in the Mediterto be found in the MediterThe common which isis to be found common germon, The quite good eating. All eating. Ali makes qui ranean, has has white white flesh flesh which which makes ranean, te good germon. In (tuna) may for germon. In be used used for may be for tunny tunny (tuna) recipes suitable suitable for recipes (tuna tunny (tuna white-meat tunny coast albacore albacore isis aa white-meat the Pacific Pacific coast U.S.A. the V.S.A. fish). fish).

Genoese (Ko/lar) filling(Kollar) with chocolate chocolate fiJling cake with Genoese cake

CENOUE -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. GÉROMÉ

Genoese nounn6n AU eu cENoIs FOURRÉE filling. GÉNOISE chocolate fiUing. with chocolate Genoese cake cake with layers into 33 layers horizontally into cake horizontally Genoese cake Slice aa Genoese - Slice butter cream cream of equal thickness. layer of of Chocolate Chocolate butter Spread aa layer ofequal thickness. Spread (see (see CREAMS) with another another slice. slice. slice of of cake. cake. Coyer Cover with CREAMS) on on 1I slice Spread the on top top of of the last slice slice on Lay the the last cream. Lay with the the butter butter cream. Spread with others. parts finnly together. firmly together. gently to three parts stick the the three to stick others. Press Press gently jam and Spread with and sprinkle sprinkle with apricot jam with apricot and sides sides with Spread the the top top and chocolate and thousands. thousands. hundreds and chocolate hundreds Genoese rounnnr AU .lu c6Nots FOURRÉE mocha cream. cream. GÉNOISE with mocha Genoese cake cake with MOKA Infilling. Inchocolate filling. cake with with chocolate Genoese cake MoKA -- Made Made like like Genoese put stead cream isis put coffee butter butter cream cream, coffee butter cream, stead of of chocolate chocolate butter between the top top and and spread on on the then spread Apricot jam isis then the layers. layers. Apricotjam between the (sw sides icing (see mocha Fondant Fondant icing iced with with mocha the cake cake and and itit isis iced sides of of the ICING). rcrNG). CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -

GEX -- See CHE'ESE. See CHEESE. GEX young fruits fruits of vqry young of are very coRNIcHoN-- Gherkins Gherkins are GHERIKIN. CORNICHON GHERKIN. green, gathered green, They are are gathered varieties of of cucumber. cucumber. They certain certain varieties used as as aa condiment. condiment. preservod in in vinegar, vinegar, and and used preserved (A vmrucnn (À (cooked). CORNICHONS eu VINAIGRE coRNIcHoNs AU vinegar (cooked). Gberkins.in Gherkinsin vinegar gherkins and in salt salt and soak soak them them in the gherkins Trim and and rub rub the CHAUD) cu,lun) -- Trim well with with aa wipe them them weIl sieve, and and wipe for for 24 24 hours. hours. Drain Drain inin aa sieve, cloth, one. cloth, one one by by one. has which has with vinegar vinegar which and coyer cover with Put in aa large large basin basin and Put them them in pan. Leave l0 hours. hours. Put Put the the Leave for for 10 been in aa copper copper pan. been boiled boiled in Allow fresh vinegar. vinegar. Allow some fresh adding sorne vinegar vinegar back back to to boil, boil, adding pints) (5f pints, pints, 6!(scantpint, pint, 2i 6| pints) for 33 litres litres (5i2f, cups) cups) for litre (scant ~j litre

423 423

GIBLETS GIBLETS neck, neck,and andhead headofof turkeys, geese,and turkeys, geese, andducks ducksshould shouldbebe scalded pluckingeasier. scaldedtotomake makeplucking easier.Plunge Plungethem theminto intoboiling boiling water pluckimmediately. waterand andpluck immediately. The giblets ofvarious Thegiblets of variouskinds kindsofpoultry prepared ininaa of poultryare areail allprepared similar similarmanner. manner. Recipes Recipes are givenonly aretherefore thereforegiven onlyfor forturkey turkey giblets, giblets,which arethe the biggest. which are biggest.Depending Dependingon howtender onhow tenderthe the giblets giblets are, are,itit will willbebesufficient sufficient totoincrease increase or ordecrease decreasethe the period of period ofcooking. cooking. Only Onlystocks stocks made made of ofthe thesame same kind kindof ofmeat meat asasthat thatwhich which forms formsthe thebasis basisof ofthe theragoût ragofit should should be beused; used;otherwise otherwiseuse use water. water. AAchicken chickenragoût ragodt should shouldbe bemoistened moistened with withchicken chickenoror veal vealstock, stock, but butnever never with with lamb lamborormutton muttonstock. stock. ln Inaddition addition totothe given below, therecipes recipes given givenfor below,aU allthose those given for lamb, lamb, mutton, mutton,veal veal or chickenragoûts orchicken ragofits can canalso alsobe beapplied appliedtoto giblets. giblets. (See (See RAGOÛTS.) RAGOUTS.) The The livers livers of of duck, duck, turkey, gooseand turkey,goose andchicken chickenshould shouldnot not be beadded added to giblet ragoûts to the thevarious variousgiblet ragoitsearlier earlierthan than 10 l0minutes minutes before before removing removing from from the the heat. heat. These These livers liven are are used used separately, separately,sautéed, saut6ed, cooked cooked on on skewers, skewers, in pilaf or in pilaf prepared ininother or risotto, risotto, or or prepared (See other ways. ways.(See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARlETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Duck Duck and and chicken giblets. ABATIS chicken giblets. ABArrs DE DECANARDS cANARDs ET ET DE DE POULETS PouLETs -- Prepared Prepared in in the the same sameways giblets (see (see ways as turkeygiblets asturkey below). below). Giblet Giblet soup soup -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS. BROTHS. Turkey giblets ài l'anglaise. Turkey giblets I'anglaise. ABATIS ABArrs DE DE DINDE DrNDE ÀAL'ANGLAISEr'ANcualsn Ingredients. Ingredients. One (or 22 smaU One large large set set (or giblets: head, small sets) sets) giblets: head, neck, liver, feet pinions, gizzard, gizzard,liver, neck, pinions, feet -- 700 (l? lb.) 700 to to 800 800 g.g. (Ji lb.) -22 medium medium large large onions, onions, 22 large potatoes, aa bouquet large potatoes, garni (a(a bouquet garni sprig sprig of parsley, thyme of parsley, thyme and and half half aa bay bay leaf), leaf), 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley, parsley, 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped chervil, pepper. chervil, salt, salt, pepper. Method. ions and Method. Scald Scald the the head, head, neck, neck, pin pinions and feet, feet, and and rem ove ail remove all feathers. feathers. Slit Slit and and clean gizzard, remove clean the thegizzard, remove the the gall gall bladder bladder from from the the liver, liver, cut cut up giblets into up the the giblets into uniform uniform and potatoes. pieces. Slice the on ions pieces. Slice the onions and potatoes. Put ions and Put half half the the on potatoes into onions and the the potatoes into aa shallow pan, shallow pan, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with half half the the chopped parsley. Put chopped parsley. pieces of Put the the pieces of giblets, giblets, except liver, on except the the liver, on this this layer layer of of vegetables. vegetables. Coyer Cover with with the the rest rest of potatoes and of the the onions, onions, potatoes parsley. and chopped chopped parsley. Put garni in Put the the bouquet bouquet garni tn the the middle, middle, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and pour in and pour enough water in enough water to to coyer. cover. Boil Boil fast fast on on aa high high !lame. flame. Then Then draw pan to draw the the pan to the the edge edge of of the the bumer, burner, coyer, cover, and and keep keep itit simmering simmering moderately moderately but but continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before serving continuously for 45 minutes. Ten minutes before serving add add the the liver. Serve giblets in Serve the the giblets in aa shallow shallow dish, dish, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped chervil. chervil. Turkey giblets bonne femme. ABATIS DE DINDE BONNE Turkey giblets bonne femme. ABATTs DE DINDE BoNNE FEMME FEMI\IE -- Ingredients. Ingredienls. One large set (or 22 small One large set (or giblets -small sets) sets) giblets 700 to 800 25 g. (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter, 100 g. ( lf lb.), g. (li 700 to (l 800 g. lb .),25 o2.,2 tablespoons) butter, I 00 g. E. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted unsalted bacon, (4 oz.) bacon, 100 g. (4 100 g. small onions, oz.) small onions, 24 small 24 small new new carrots carrots or or 33 large large carrots carrots eut cut to to size size of of new new carrots, g. (\ carrots, 25 25 g. oz., I cup) (6 tablespoons, cup) Rour, flour, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant Q oz., garni, 1I clove white wine, wine, aa bouquet bouquet garni, g"p) white gailic, li clove of of garlic, lf litres litres t~ cup) (2i pints) water, water, salt, (2| pints, pints, 2i 2f pints) pepper. salt, pepper. Method. Follow the instructions Method. Follow the instructions given given in in the the recipe recipe for for Turkey giblets à Turkey giblets (see below). d la la bourgeoise bourgeorie (see below). Turkey giblets à la bourgeoise. ABATIS DE DINDE À Turkey giblets I la bourgeoise. ^q,nA,rrs os on{op A LA r.a BOURGEOISE - IngredientsIngredients. One aU sets) BouRceorsE (or 22 sm One large large set set (or small sets) lb.), 25 2 tablespoons) giblets - 700 to 800 giblets (1*i lb.), g. (1 to 800 g. (l oz., g. (1 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) -100700 butter, 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) lean lean unsalted g. (4 oz.) small g. butter, unsalted bacon, bacon, 100 100 g. (a oz.) small on ions, 24 small new carrots or 3 large carrots cut to size of onions, 24 small new carrots or 3 large carrots cut to size of new carrots,25 carrots, 25 g. (\ oz., tablespoons, new g.(l (6 tablespoons, oz., i cup) cup) flour, flour, I1 dl. dl. (6 white wine, wine, a a bouquet a clove scant ~ cup) garni, a white garlic, scant bouquet garni, clove of of garlic, I cup)pints, litres (2| pints, 2i pints) pints) water, water, salt, pepper. lfli litres 2| salt, pepper. Method. Prepare Prepare the the giblets giblets as indicated in the recipe recipe for Method. as indicated in the for Turkey giblets giblets dà I'anglaise. l'anglaise. Blanch Blanch and and dice dice the the bacon. bacon. Peel Turkey Peel and new new carrots, carrots, peel peel and and chop chop the the clove garlic. the onions onions and clove of ofgarlic. the

boiled vinegar. vinegar. Pour Pour the theboiling gherkins. boiling vinegar vinegaron onthe thegherkins. boiled Thenext jarsor next day, gherkins, put day,drain drain the putthem the gherkins, themininjars pots, The orpots, with small small white white onions, onions, cbillis, chillis, sprigs sprigsofthyme, of thyme, fragments fragmentsof with of bay,tarragon sprigs, and tarragon sprigs, and cloves, cloves, and and coyer cover with bay, withthe thevinegar. vinegar. jars hermetically pots or Seal the the pots hermetically and or jars andkeep keep in place. inaacool Seal cool place. (uncooked). CORNICHONS Gherkins inin vinegar vinegar (uncooked). coRNrcHoNS AU Gberkins AUVINAIGRE vrNArcRE (,i. CRU) gherkins with cnu) -- Rub Rub the the gherkins with aacloth, cloth, or or brush brush them, (À them, toto remove the down down which which covers covers them. them. Steep Steep in in aa basin rem ove the basin of of sea-salt. Leave Leave for for 24 24 bours. hours. Drain, Drain, wash wash them them inin vinegar sea-salt. vinegar water, drain drain again, again, and and wipe wipe them them one water, one by by one. one. jar or Arrange them glass jar them in in aaglass or in in aastoneware pot,adding stoneware pot, Arrange adding small white white onions, onions, chillis, chillis, sprigs sprigs ofthyme, of thyme, fragments small fragmentsof of bay bay leaf, tarragon tarragon sprigs sprigs and and cloves. cloves. Co Cover with wine winevinegar. vinegar. leaf, ver with pots hermetically, place. hermetically, and Seal the the pots and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. Seal prepared in Gherkins prepared in this this way way can can be kept for for 44to weeks. Gherkins to55weeks. be kept gherkins ài la Fresh salt salt gberkins la russe. russe. CORNICHONS coRNIcHoNs FRAIS FRArsSALÉS srfs ÀALA Fresil rl gherkins in RUssE -- Wash Wash 24 24 fresh fresh gherkins in lukewarm lukewarm water RUSSE water without without trimming trimming them. them. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in aa large large basin basin of of cold cold water. water. jar in Drain Drain and and wipe wipe them. them. Put Put in in aa jar in layers layers with with blackcurrant blackcurrant leaves and fennel between. leaves and sprays sprays of of fennel between. Put shavings of horseradish and and aa layer Put shavings of horseradish layer of of blackcurrant blackcurrant gherkins, which leaves leaves on on the the last last layer layer of of gherkins, should reach reach 22 cm. which should cm. (!(* inch) inch) below top of of the receptacle. Press below the the top the receptacle. Press the the leaves leaves down. Boil pour over down. Boil salt gherkins. salt water, water, cool, cool, and and pour over the the gherkins. Leave to to soak for 24 24 ho urs. Leave soak for hours. Gherkins are are used Gherkins ussia. as an an hors-d'œuvre used as hors-d'uuyre in in RRussia.

GIBLETS. ABATIS GIBLETS. ABATTs -- The The head, head, neck, neck, heart, pinions, feet, heart, pinions, feet, guzard, and gizzard, poultry, as and liver liver of of poultry, as weil well as as cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys. giblets of The giblets The of turkeys turkeys and and large large chickens chickens are are used used for for ragofits, and making ragoûts, and improving the the taste taste of of stocks stocks and clear and clear soups. soups. Cocks' combs, and Cocks'combs, and kidneys and and livers livers of of fowl fowl are are used used for for certain garnishes such certain classic classic garnishes such as as financière, Toulouse, and and financidre, Toulouse, ambassadrice, and and other dishes of of aa similar similar type. The livers liven of geese and ducks giblets. ducks are not considered considered as as giblets. These are are expensive delicacies delicacies and and require special preparation. t

.'.'

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Chicken giblets gible!s (Scarncti) (Scarnali) Chicken

Metbods of preparing preparing poultry poultry giblets giblets - The The giblets giblets of of Methods - used turkeys-and geese are are those those most most frequently frequently used for ragoûts. turkeys and geese for ragofrts. Before being being used, used, giblets giblets should be be thoroughly thoroughly washed washed and and Before trimmed. Singe Singe the the neck, neck, head, head, and and pinions, pinions, and and remove rem ove all ail trimmed. outer skin skin which which covers covers feathers. Scald Scald the the feet, feet, peel peel off off the the outer feathers. them, and and pare pare offthe off the end end of ofthe the spurs. spurs. Slit Slit the the gizzard on the the thern, gizzard on curved side, side, open open itit and and remove rem ove the the innerbag, inner bag, taking taking care care not not curved to break break it, it, as as itit isis full fuU of of grit. grit. Remove Remove the the gall gall bladder bladder from from to the liver liver and and trim trim off off the the upper upper part part of of the the heart. heart. The The pinions, pin ions, the

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(2±

424 424

GIGOT. MANCHE DE GIGOT, gradually 3 egg herbs, add add "","''''''ACU.'J Remove the the herbs, sauce. Remove thicken the thicken the sauce. (scant ti cream, yolks blended with 3 tablespoons tablespoons (seant crea m, with".rp) juice or lemon lemon juice A dash of vinegar dash of to the the boil. boil. A out bringing to or sauce. the sauce. rouxbefore to the the roux may be added to before binding the FRIToT -DINDE EN EN FRlTOT DE DINDE giblets fried in baffer. ABATIS batter. ABA Turkey gibJets 11S DE for leave to to cool. cool. Soak Soak for and leave stock. Drain, and Cook the giblets in stock. few drops drops oil, aa few of 1I tablespoon tablespoon oil, in aa marinade of 30 minutes in 30 juice, chopped parsley, salt salt and and pepper. chopped parsley, vinegar or or lemon juice, vinegar g. (3 from 75 made from 75 g. Coat the giblets in batter made Q oz., ~f cup) flour, (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) warm tablespoons, seant dl. (6 oil, 1I dl. 1I tablespoon oil, pepper, and egg white added and 1I stifHy stiffy whisked whisked egg water, salt, pepper, water, left to to stand. stand. has been mixture has been !eft after the mixture sprinkle fat. Drain, Drain, sprinkle giblets in in smoking-hot deep fat. Fry the the giblets quarters parsley and and quarters and garnish with fried parsley with fine dry salt, and sauce. tomato sauce. of lemon. lemon. Serve with tomato of (bash method). DE DINDE DINDE EN EN ABATIS giblet rago0t (basic method). ABA Turkey 11S DE Turkey giblet gizzard into pinions and into neck, pinions and gizzard the neck, snuN -- Cut the RAGOÛT RAcoOr ÀA BRUN are being being used. used. feet, if if they are the feet, also the pieces; also pan in has been been in which which butter butter has giblets into into aa shallow pan Put the giblets with Rour flour to time. time. Sprinkle with time to heated. Cook, from time heated. Cook, stirring from little crushed crushed garlic. Moisten with and lightly. Add aa !iule and brown brown lightly. garni. bouquet garni. wine. Add aa bouquet little white white wine. stock and aa little stock or or water water and pan with cook lid and and cook the pan with aa !id cover ver the boil, season, season, co Bring to to the the boil, caregiblets, trim them, and and carethe giblets, trim them, for minutes. Strain Strain the for 30 to to 35 35 minutes. giblets back in back in the boned boned giblets Put the fully splinters. Put fully remove remove ail all bone splinters. pan. aa clean clean pan. vegetables, lightly fried fried vegetables, and Iightly Garnish blanched and with blanched Garnish with juices left pan, in the the pan, left in the juices according Sieve the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Sieve according to to the pour over pur6e, and the over the and pour remove tomato purée, fat, add add tomato remove surplus surplus fat, in the the finish cooking cooking in giblets. giblets. Bring and finish the boil, boil, coyer, cover, and Bring to to the not Take care care not the liver. liver. Take oven; serving, add add the before serving, minutes before l0 minutes oven; 10 to giblets or serving. vegetables when when serving. the giblets or vegetables to break break the gSblet ragoûts done The ragoils isis usually usually done brown giblet The moistening of of brown They could could also also with light stock. stock. They and light with veal veal or broth and or chicken broth quantity small quantity be by a small supplemented bya water, supplemented with water, moistened with be moistened of of tomato tomato pur6e. Turkey TlS DE ALrx NAVETS NAVETSDE DINDE DINDE AUX ABATIS Turkey giblets with tumips. ABA guz.ards to 'Take to empty empty Open the the gizzards 'Take 22 sets turkey giblets. Open sets of of turkey pluck them singe them; them and andsinge necks, pluck the necks, and the scald the the pinions and them; scald them, then running tap, tap, then wash under under aa running and wash cut into into pieces and them, eut into drain. 225 g. (8 oz.) cut into oz.) bacon bacon eut piece of with225 of butter butterwith drain. Put Put aa piece giblets put in large in the the giblets when itit isis fried, put into aa saucepan; saucepan; when large dice dice into to moisten and moisten little fiour flour and with aa!iule little. Sprinkle Sprinkle with them aa little. to colour colour them with salt, cloves,salt, stuck with with 44cloves, an onion onion stuck Add an or water. water. Add with stock stock or like to look look like the turnips to Cut the pepper, and and aa bouquet garni. Cut into aa sugar into put them with sorne butter and sugar some butter large olives, olives, put saucepan sauce in inwhich which the sauce Moisten with with the lightly. Moisten to brown brown lightly. saucepan to the giblets, boil boil the giblets, to the the turnips turnips to giblets were add the cooked, add the giblets were cooked, gently toto down Simmpr gently consistency. Simmer to the the desired desired consistency. the sauce sauc€ to down the allow en be Taste to to see see removed.Taste then be removed. should th rise, which which should allow fat fat to to rise, ifif there ions the bouquetand onions andthe the on remove the salt, remove enough salt, there isis enough stuck (From La Grande Cuisine Grande Cuisine hot.' (From Serve hot.' stuck with with cloyes. cloves. Serve simplifiée, published by 1845.) by Audot, Audot, 1845.) Paris, published Robert, Paris, simplifiie, by by Robert, Giblets mushwith mushprepared inin the manner with the same same manner be prepared Giblets can can be rooms, etc. cucumbers etc. hearts, cucumbers rooms, celeriac, celeriac, artichoke artichoke hearts, Turkey for chicken chicken All recipes recipes for FoIEs DE DE DINDES DINDEs - - Ali Turkey livers. livers. FOlES livers livers of of turkeys. for the the livers suitable for livers are are suitable Turkey anddelicately delicately very large and sometimes very livers are are sometimes Turkey livers flavoured. gooselivers the liversand andthe and goose to duck duck and They are aresimilar similar to flavoured. They same tothem. them. applied to can be beapplied methods of of preparation can same methods the DE PIGEONNEAUX PIcEoNNEALx- - Usually Usuallythe prgeon livers. FOIES FoIESDE Yrung pigeon pigeon tains no gall, isisleft leftinside insidethe the bird bird ifif nogall, pigeon liver, which contains which con itit isis to pot-roasted or roasted. orroasted. stewed, pot-roasted to be be braised, braised, stewed, AH table for pigeonIivers. livers. forpigeon aresui suitable liversare forchicken chickenlivers All recipes recipes for

Heat the the butter butter in a shallow pan. Add the bacon, brown brown it Heat and remove remove it. iL Fry Fry the onions on ions until golden. golden. Drain and light!y, and lightly, put put with with the the bacon. bacon. Brown the giblets, giblets, except except the liver, on a high high flame, fia me, turning Brown Add the with a spoon to ensure even even cooking. Add the chopped garlic with and sprinkle with the flour. fiour. Stir to blend, and as as soon as the flour begins to brown, moisten with the white wine and boil moistening with a few few minutes. minutes. Complete Complete the the moistening down for a enough water water or stock to cover. co ver. enough salt bouqel garni,bacon, garni, onions and carrots. Add salt Add the bouqet Coyer the pan and as as it begins to boil as soon soon as and pepper. Cover cooking on moderate fast reduce the heat and leave to finish cooking heat for 45 45 minutes. Ten Ten minutes before serving, serving, add add the the heat the giblets Iiver. Arrange the giblets in add the dish and and add in aa shallow shallow dish liver. garnish. Pour the sauce sauce over. pwon ÀA LA TIS DE ABATIs or DINDE u Turkey giblets àI la bourguignonne. ABA (or 22 small) BOURGUIGNONNE -- Ingredients. One One large set set (or BouRGUIcNoNNE (l oz., (lt lb.), 2 tableg. (I~ g. (1 o2.,2 tablelb.), 25 g. to 800 g. turkey giblets -- 700 to (4 oz.) spoons) butter, butter, 100 g. (4 100 g. lean bacon, bacon, 100 desalted lean oz.) desalted spoons) 100 g. oz.) small onions, onions, 100 (4 oz.) cultivated (4 oz.) g. (4 cultivated mushrooms, 100 g. (scant pint,2f, Rour, tI litre (scant 2* cups) 1I tablespoon flour, red wine, aa cups) red (scant pint, 2* 2f cups) cups) bouquet garni, aa c10ve clove of garlic, t litre (seant water or stock, salt, pepper. pepper. Method. Follow the given in in the recipe for for the recipe instructions given Method. the instructions Turkey giblets giblels àd la Ia bourgeoise. 11S DE giblets chasseur. DE DINDE DINDE CHASSEUR cHASSEUR -ABATIS chasseur. ABA Turkey giblets pepper and fry them in aa and fry them in salt and and pepper with salt Season the giblets with shallow proportions. pan, using in equal equal proportions. oil and and butter butter in shallow pan, using oil Drain, and and keep hot. In the same same pan put 100 g. (4 oz.) thinly sliced mushrooms and moisten shallots, moisten chopped shaJiots, and cook on on aa high flame. Add 22 chopped with half aa glass white wine, and boil down. down. wine, and (see Add Tomato sauce sauce (see scant tt cup) cup) Tomato Add 11 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant SAUCE) and 22 dl. ({ pint, veal thickened brown pint, scant cup) cup) thickened brown veal dl. (i stock. Put the sauce. Reheat without without boiling boiling this sauce. the giblets into tbis and and tarragon. tarragon. chervil and and add add 11 tablespoon choppod parsley, chervil The The tomato sauce isis tomato sauce The dish not be too too thick. The dish should not sufficient to give itit the consistency. the desired desired consistency. Turkey DE DINDE DINDE ABATIS DE giblets with sausages. ABATIS with chipolata sausages. Turkey giblets À (or 22 small sets) set (or small sets) One large set r,c, CHIPOLATA A LA cHpor sre, -Ingredients. - Ingredients. One 2 tableturkey (l oz., o2.,2 table700 to to 800 800 g. (li lb.), 25 g. (l turkey giblets -- 700 small onions, onions, or 66 blanched and glazd small butter, 55 or spoons) butter, in stock stock with with cooked in peeled and three-quarters cooked and three-quarters 24 chestnuts, chestnuts, peeled aa pinch ofsugar chipolata cooked chipolata tablespoon butter, butter, 88 cooked of sugar and and 11 tablespoon sausages, bacon, diced and and browned browned bacon, oz.) desalted, desalted, diced sausages, 50 50 g. (2 Q oz.) 1I tablespoon (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) white cup) white dl. (6 tablespoon flour, 1I dl. wine, garnr, 1* salt, water, salt, l| litres litres (2f pints, 2| pints) water, bouquet garni, wine, aa bouquet pepper. pepper. Method. given in recipe for for in the the recipe instructions given Method. Follow the instructions Follow the Turkey giblets àd la The cooked chestnuts should should cooked chestnuts Turkey giblets la bourgeoise. bourgeorse. The not serving. minutes before before serving. until 15 15 minutes not be to the the ragoAt until be added added to TIS DE Turkey DINDE ÀA L'ÉCOSr'6cos DE DINDE ABATIS Turkey giblets ài l'6cossaise. ABA SAISEwith giblets bonnefemme bonnefemmewith recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets sAIsB- Follow the the recipe 2,dl. garnish made finely made up up of of finely (+ pint, pint, seant scant cup) cup) Brunoise Brunoise garnish 2,d1. (~ shredded cooked in in butter, and halfcooked butter, and celery and and ornons onions half shredded carrots, carrots, celery hulled previously soaked in warm and cooked cooked soaked in warm water water and hulld barley, barley, previously in minutes. for 35 35 minutes. in salted salted water water for Turkey DINDE ÀA LA La FERrrnDE DINDE giblets àI ia la fermière. fermibre. ABATIS ABATIS DE Turkey giblets MIÈRE giblets àd lala bourgeoise bourgeoise recipe for for Turkey Turkey giblets Follow the the recipe uGnB -- Follow but (f, pint, pint, garnish given given for recipe by dl. (~ for that that recipe by 44 dl. the garnish but replace the (see FONDUE). Vegetable fondue scant 2 caps) Vegetable fondue (see FONDUE). turkey giblets gibleb (early French ABATIS DE DE French recipe). ABATIS Fricassee ofturkey DINDE giblets, put put BLANC -- Prepare turkey giblets, EN FRICASSÉE FRICASS6E AU AU BLANC DrNDE EN into butter, tablespoons) butter, into aa saucepan with 22 tabJespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) saucepan with 2 aa bouquet garhc,Z garni of parsley, aa scallion, ofgarlic, clove of scallion, 1I c10ve bouquet garni of parsley, iL and c1oves, Add aa mushrooms. Add and sorne some mushrooms. leaf, bas basil, cloves, thyme, bay leaf, pinch salt season with with salt pinch of or stock, stock, season with water water or of flour, moisten with and and pepper, and ground pepper, Boil down down and and cook. cook. Boil coarsely ground and coarsely

GIGOT, - Small to attached to metalappliance appliance attached DESmall metal MAI\CHE DE GIG'OT, MANCI-IE the cooking toto legof mutton after after cooking, ofmutton ofthe the leg or'handle' the bone bone or 'handle'of keep whilecarving. carving. keep itit steady steady while 425 425

GIGUE GIGUE GIGUE - See HAUNCH. HAUNCH. GILD. GILD. DoRER DORER - Some Sorne types types of of pastry pastry and and other other preparations preparations are brushed brushed with egg (gilded or glazed) glazed) before browning in the the oven. oven.

Girella

GIMBLETTE GIMBLETTE - See RING-BISCUIT. GIMLET. GIMLET. FoREr FORET - Steel point used to penetrate wood and casks. casks. Also Aiso used used by by wine waiters to uncork bottles.

GIN GIN *- Spirit, distilled from grain (barley, wheat, oats) and flavoured flavoured with with juniper juniper berries. berries.

pouch in GIZZARD. cfsnn GÉSIER -- Tbird birds. In Third digestive pouch in birds. birds of prey, it has aa membraneous lining. In grain-eating grain-eating birds, birds. it is very muscular and thick. GJETOST _ - See CHEESE. CHEESE. GJETOST GLAÇAGE -- There is no no single English equivalent for this GLACAGE

quite distinct word. is used used for for several several quite word, It It is distinct operations operations for terrns in English. which there are various terms which In ln its proper proper sense, glacer means to freeze a liquid until it tums to ice. Thus Thus a creamy or other mixture mixture may be be put in a turns make une glace, freezer with salt, saltpetre and natural natural ice to make that is to say an ice cream or water ice. (See ICE CREAMS that CREAMS AND rCES.) ICES.) also used for browning or glazing in a very glaçage is also But glagage braised cut of meat, poultry or game is glaci glacé hot oven. A braised (browned or glazed) glazed) by being being subjected subjected to intense heat in the (browned or oven after after basting basting in in its its own own stock. stock. Meat Meat is said said to to be be browned oven glazd (with (with jelly) if ifif served hot, and glazed if served cold. Glaçage is used for glazing glazing when when it is applied to fish, eggs eggs Glagage or anything anything else covered covered with a white white sauce. sauce. It It can can also mean or confectionery glazing in the sense of sprinkling sweets and confectionery with icing icing sugar sugar and subjecting subjecting them tbem to to intense intense heat. heat. This This last with of glagage glaçage is also applied a pplied to to carrots, turnips turnips and and onions. forrn of form icing of of cakes. The term is applied also to the icing GLACE DE DE VIANDE VlANDESee MEAT. MEAT. GLACE - See GLACIÈRE -- The terrn glacière has two meanings; ice box GLACIERE term glaciire refrigerator, or or a sugar-dredger. sugar-dredger. or refrigerator,

Ginger Ginger in in root root form, form. preserved preserved and and powdered powdered (Fauc (Fauchon. Nicolas) hon. PPhOI, ho t. Nic o las)

GLASS AND AND GLASSES. GLASSES. vnnnn, VERRE, vERRERTEVERRERIE - Ever Ever since since glass glass GLASS contain was invented invented it has has been been used to make make receptacles receptac1es to contain was and store store drinks drinks and and foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Glass Glass utensils utensils were used used side and by side with with the the pottery pottery which which had bad served the same same purpose purpose by since ancient ancient times. times. Glass, Glass, which which by by its its transparency transparency allowed allowed since be seen, was was preferred for flagons conconthe liquid liquid inside inside to to be the drinking vessels because because it afforded afforded taining drinks drinks and for drinking taining

GINGER. cINGEMBREGINGEMBRE - Root-stock Root-stock of of aa tropical tropical plant plant which which GINGER. grew in Bengal Bengal and and Malabar. Malabar. It is is sold sold in in two two grew originally originally in forms. Grey Grey ginger ginger has has the the stronger stronger smell smell and and comes cornes in in forms. tubercles 44 to to l0 10 cm. cm. (l| (li toto 44 inches) inches) long long and and I1 to to 22 cm. cm. @ (i toto tubercles inch) thick, thick, covered covered with with aa greyish-yellow greyish-yellow skin skin and and wellwellft inch) defined rings. rings. White White ginger ginger is is sold sold skinned skinned and and cut cut up up into into defined smaller pieces. pieces. smaller used as as aa condiment. condiment. Jam Jam isis also also made made with with ginger. ginger. ItIt isis used GINGER BEER BEER -- See See BEER. BEER. GINGER GffiAFFE. cIRAFE GIRAFE -- Ruminant Ruminant African African mammal. mammal. Its Its flesh flesh isis GIRAIT'E. edible. edible. GffiAUMON -- West West Indian Indian pumpkin. pumpkin. Its Its flesh flesh isis sweet sweet and and GIRAUMON

delicate, sometimes sometimes with with aa musky musky flavour. flavour. ItIt isis eaten eaten raw raw in in delicate, or cooked cooked with with other other types types of of gourd gourd salads like like cucumber, cucumber, or salads and pumpkin. pumpkin. (See (See GOURD, GOURD, PUMPKIN.) PUMPKIN.) and GIRDLE (U.S. (V.S. GRIDDLE). GRIDDLE). cALETToIRE GALETTOIRE - Flat iron pan pan GIRDLE - Flat iron without an an edge edge or or with with aa very very shallow shallow edge, edge, used used for for baking baking without pancakes of ofwholemeal wholemeal flour flour called called galetons, galetons, drop drop scones scones or or pancakes girdle cakes cakes (U.S. (U .S. griddle griddle cakes). cakes). girdle GffiELLA. cIRELLE GIRELLE -- Small, Small, graceful graceful sea-fish. sea-fish. It It is is beautibeautiGIRELLA.

and has has no no scales. scales. fully coloured coloured and fully The common common girella girella isis violet violet with with an an orange orange stripe; stripe; the the red red The girella,aa rich rich scarlet;the scarlet; the Turkish Turkishgirella,green girella, green with wi th turquoise turq uoise girella, Mediterranean fish. fish. blue stripes. stripes. These These are are all aIl Mediterranean blue used mainly mainly tn in bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (q.v.), (q.v.), but but itit can can be be Girella isis used Girella served fried. fried. Its Itsftesb fairly delicate. delicate. served flesh isis fairlv

Old bottles bottles and and old old champagne champagne glasses glasses Old

426 426

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pleasure pleasure to to the the eye at at the the same same time time as as the the pleasure pleasure to the the palate. palate. There There exist, exist, in in museums museums and and private priva te collections, collections, bottles, bottles, carafes carafes and and drinking drinking vessels vessels of of every every period period and and every every country. country. When When glass-makers glass-makers were were sufficiently sufficiently masters masters of of their their techtechnique nique to to be be able able to to seek seek artistic artistic effects, effects, objects objects made made of of glass glass sometimes became purely purely ornamental. ornamental. sometimes became The The shape shape of of the the glass glass is is so so very very important important for for the the full full appreciation appreciation of of wine, wine, that that each each region region has has produced produced the the shape shape that that best best enhances enhances its its particular particular wine. wine. As As aa general general rule, rule, the the glass glass should should be be as as fine fine as as possible, possible, roomy roomy (it must must never never be be filled filled to to the the brim), brim), with with bombi bombé shoulders shoulders so so that that the the wine ample room room to to develop develop its its aroma. aroma. Champagne, Champagne, on on wine has has ample the the other other hand, hand, should should be be served served in in narrow narrow glasses glasses to to prevent prevent the the bouquet bouquet from from being being dissipated. dissipated. A A flute fiute glass glass or, or, better better still, still, aa tulip tulip glass glass is is the the most most suitable. suitable.

diabetics, have a quantity of of gluten added. added. Gluten Gluten bread bread still retains retains an an average average of 40 per cent of starch while potatoes contain contain only 23 23 per per cent. cent. These These products products are are not recommended, since they they mended, except in very mild cases cases of diabetes, since contain contain such a high proportion proportion of of starch. In cases where where the starch content has has been been appreciably appreciably reduced, reduced, the product product no starch content longer longer bears bears any real real resemblance resemblance to to bread. bread.

GLUX GLUX -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. GLYCÉRINE - Colourless, Colourless, sweetish, sweetish, syrupy GLYCERINE. crvcfntNe liquid, aa by-product by-product of ofsoap manufacture. It liquid, It can be extracted soap manufacture. from most most fats. fats. from can be be used in industrial confectionery confectionery without without Glycerine can Glycerine injury to to health. health. It is also regarded as a valuable substitute injury sugar in the the sweetening sweetening of of diabetic diabetic foods. foods. for sugar

GNOCCHI GNOCCHI -- This This dish, dish, made made from flour or semolina, semolina, can be be prepared prepared in in two two ways, ways, either from from Chou Choupaste(see paste (see DOUGH) made made with with milk, milk, or or from aa semolina porridge. porridge. Gnocchi Gnocchi can can also also be be made made from from potatoes. potatoes. These Tbese various various dishes, of of Italian ltalian or or Austro-Hungarian Austro-Hungarian origin, can be be served hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or as a separate separa te course. course. as a hot Gnocchi Gnocchi au au gratin (Austro-Hungarian (Austro-Hungarian cookery) -- Make aa Chou Chou paste paste (see (see DOUGH) in the the usual usual way, way, using using milk instead instead of of water. water. When When it is ready add 50 g. (2 (2 oz., *t cup) cup) grated Parmesan for every every 450 g. (l (1 1b.) lb.) paste. pas te. grated Parmesan

GLAZES. cLACES GLACES -- Glazes Glazes are are stocks stocks reduced reduced to to aa syrupy syrupy GLAZES. in order order to to consistency used used as as aa finish finish for for certain certain sauces sauces in consistency enhance their their flavour fiavour and and improve improve their their consistency. consistency. enhance demi-glace sauce sauce isis one one obtained obtained from from the the combination combination AA demi-glace of Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), light light brown brown stock, and and of Madeira. Madeira. GLUCOMETER. crucorrlirnn. GLUCOMÈTRE, clycoMirRE GL YCOMÈTRE -- Graduated Graduated GLUCOMETER. hydrometer used used for for the the instantaneous instantaneous assessment assessment of the the hydrometer sugar content content of of liquids. liquids. Special Special glucometers glucometers are are used used for for sugar measuring the the sugar sugar density density of of wines wines and and syrups. syrups. measuring GLUCOSE -- A A sugar sugar found found in in its its natural natural state state in in many many GLUCOSE fruits, and and in in particular particular in in grapes. grapes . fruits, madeindustrially industrially by by heating heating starch starch with with various various acids. acids. ItItisis made This produces produces first first dextrins dextrins and and then then an an impure impure form form of of This glucose itself. itself. Two Two forms forms of of glucose glucose are are used used commercially, commercially, glucose many industrial industrial uses, uses, viscous and and semi-solid. semi-solid. Glucose Glucose has has many viscous notably to to increase increase the the sugar sugar content content of of wine wine and and beer. beer. It It isis notably also used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of syrup syrup and and jam. jam. French French law law also that when when glucose glucose isis used used in in this this way way the the fact fact must must lays down down that lays be indicated indicated on on the the label. label. be GLUTEN -- Albuminous Albuminous substance substance in in flour. fiour. GLUTEN

When flour ftour isis kneaded kneaded under under running running water, water, aa paste paste isis first first When formed, thentben- the the starch starch having having been been gradually gradually washed washed away away formed, greyish elastic elastic dough dough is is produced. produced. This This is is the the gluten. gluten. It -- aa greyish is because because of of its its gluten gluten content content that that flour fiour can can be be made made into into is bread. Ordinary Ordinary bread bread contains contains about about 77 per per cent cent gluten. gluten. bread. Gluten dougll dough, bread bread and and biscuits. biscuits. pArNs, PAINS, pArfs, PÂTÉS, Brsclrrrs BISCUITS DE DE Gluten GLUTEN -- These These products, products, manufactured manufactured especially especially for for cLUTEN

Poaching gnocchi gnocchi with with the the aid ofa of a forcing-bag forcing-bag Poaching (Maison Desmeuzes) Desmeuzes) (Maison

427

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GOAT GOAT Put the paste in a large forcing-bag nozzle. forcing-bag with aa round round nozzle. Force it through The gnocchi are are through by pressing pressing with the hand. The dropped into a pan of of boiling salted water, each one the size of ofaa small walnut. walnut. Simmer for a few minutes. As soon as the gnocchi gnocchi rise to the surface surface of the water, drain them and put on a cloth to dry. Place them in a gratin dish lined with a layer of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce. Sprinkle sauce (se (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer with the the same same sauce. Sprinkle grated pour on melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in grated cheese on the the top and pour a slow oven. oyen. poMMEs DE Potato Potato gnocchi gnocchi (German (German cookery). cNoccHr GNOCCHI DE POMMES (2!a lb.) potatoes. Drain, and dry in the rERRE TERRE - Boil |1 kg. (2i oven. oyen. Rub them through through a fine sieve. sieve. While still hot, add to this pur6e eggs,2 purée 2 whole whole eggs, 2 yolks, 50 g. g. (2 oz., Ii cup) butter, 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., li cups) cups) flour. fiour. Season Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix. Divide the mixture pieces the size of of a walnut walnut and roll mixture into pieces into balls. gently, pressing on them with the balls. Flatten them gently, back of of a fork so that they they have ridges ridges along the top. Simmer in salted boiling water. water. Drain, and place them in a dish in Iayers, layers, sprinkling grated cheese cheese on each layer. Pour melted butter over and brown brown in the oven. oyen. Gnocchi Gnocchi à la romaine romaine -- Shake, through a dredger, 250 g. (9 oz.,llcups) oz., Hcups) semolina semolina into I1 litre litre (lf (l i pints, generous quart) boiling milk. Season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. Mix cook for 20 minutes. Mix well and cook Remove from the stove and and add 2 egg yolks. yolks. Spread out evenly evenly on a moistened moisttned slab so that it is about I1 crn. cm. @ (i inch) thick. Leave shapes. Leave to cool. Cut into shapes. gnocchiinabuttered Putthe Put the gnocchi in a buttered dish dish lined lined with with grated grated Gruydre Gruyère or Parmesan cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with the the same cheese. cheese. Pour Pour melted butter over and bake in a slow oven. oyen.

coBELEr -- Wide-mouthed Wide-mouthed drinking vessel which GOBLET. GOBELET used used to be made of silver or silver-plate. goblets are often Antique often exquisitely exquisitely engraved. engraved. Small silver Antique goblets in French, though though the are also also called gobelets in wine-tasters are more usual name is tâte-vin tdte-vin (wine-taster). narne for them is DU GOBELET The goblet service. SERVICE sERvIcE DU coBELET -- At the the French Tbe

court, 'serving the was one the most most important one of the the goblet' was ceremonies of of the royal household. The master master of the goblet, ceremonies who was the head he ad functionary of the royal kitchens, was in sole chargé chargd of the household bread, fruit and and linen for the royal table. known in France France as the goujon de mer. mer .lt It GOBY. GOBY. GOBIE coslE -- Fish known to be found in all the oceans, oceans, and sorne some kinds are also found delicate flesh, large rivers. This tiny fish, which has very delicate f1esh, is in large gudgeon. usually eaten fried, like river gudgeon. is

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Garnish for for certain certain meat dishes GODARD -- Garnish dishes served as as a second course, enties. (See GARNISHES.) course, and for poultry entrées. GARNISHES.)

GODMAUGODIVEAU -

Delicate forcemeat from which quenelles are

made.

of this word is uncertain. Scheler suggests The etymology etymology of suggests that it comes cornes from from the old French verb goder which means to make godinettes. Lacam believes godinettes. Lacam believes that godiveau is make that godivear is derived from old word godebillaux. He He says from the the old word godebillaux. says that that formerly godebillaux godebillaux meant meant a a pie pie filled filled with meat balls balls made made of with meat chopped veal and biatilles béati/les (titbits) such as cocks' combs and cocks'combs kidneys, lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, etc., made into aa stew. Godiveru Godiveauforcemeat different ways (see forcemeat can be prepared in different FORCEMEATS FORCEMEA TS OR OR STUFFINGS, STUFFINGS, Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat). In addition to the the recipes recipes given elsewhere, here here is is the the one grven Carême for this forcemeat. given by Car€me I-A. À LA Godiveau with witb chives chives (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). GODIVEAU Godiveau comveA.u A CIBOULETTE - 'Trim 450 g. g. (1 (l lb.) lb.) fillet fillet of veal and cIBouLErrE and 675 675 g. (1+ (lt lb.) suet. Chop the veal finely and mix in the fat. After ail all of it has been chopped, add 4 teaspoons teaspoons spiced salt, a pinch ofit eggs. Chop for several minutes. of nutmeg, and 4 eggs. 'Pound the remove from the mortar the godiveau in a mortar, remove and place place it on ice or in a cool place for 2 hours. Divide the mixture into into 2 2 parts parts and and pound pound each each part part separately, mixture separately, moistening little little by little with pieces ofwashed moistening of washed ice, each the an egg. egg. This will make the godiveau godiveau very firm firm and size of an smooth. smooth. 'Put 'Put it in a large large bowl bowl and pound the rest in the same same way, putting it in the bowl when it is ready, with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) Veloutd Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and I1 tablefine. This mixture is is used used like spoon chives chopped very fine. forcemeat.' forcemeat.' Carême goes on to explain explain the rdle rôle played played by the ice in this Car6me preparation: 'Ice helps helps in in binding binding and and giving body to to the godiveau, godiveau, 'Ice which is what gives it its desirable smooth softness.' softness.' which

i

Goat Goat with kid kid

CHÈVRE -- Goats are raised especially especially for dairy proGOAT. csivnn Goats' meat, when the the animal animal is still too young young for duction. Goats'meat, agreeable flavour fiavour although it is tougher tougher breeding, has an agreeable than mutton. mutton. As As a rule, ru le, only only animals animaIs which which are are old old and wornthan as nutritive nutritive as out by milking milking are slaughtered. The meat is as out but its its smell smell is is disagreeable. disagreeable. Goat Goat is is eaten in Spain, Spain, mutton, but Italy and in the South of of France. France. In the the high mountains mountains in Italy goats' goats' meat meat is drid dried in the open air; this is the bindenfleisch bindenfieisch the Canton des Grisons, Grisons. Male goats' flesh fiesh can be eaten eaten of the only when when the the animals animais are are very very young, young, from from six six weeks weeks to to four only rnonths. months.

GODWIT. nmcsBARGE - Marsh Marsh bird, bird, also found along river banks GODWIT. along river and near the sea shore, commonly called oyster-catcher or cricket-teal. cricket-teal. The two two varieties, the the black tailed tailed godwit and the bar tailed The godwit are found in Europe. In America America there are the large large marbled godwit godwit and the small Hudsonian Hudsonian godwit. marbled recipes given for woodcock woodcock (q.v.) (q.v.) can be applied to All recipes godwit. godwit. GOÉLAND -- Colloquial French French name na me for for large seagulls. GOELAI\D fiesh of of this bird, which which is oily, leathery leathery and unpleasant The flesh fiavour, used used to to be be eaten as as Lenten Lenten fare. Its eggs eggs are are edible. in flavour, is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as bustard, bustard, cooked cooked like It is duckling. domestic goose or duckling.

GOAT'S BEARD. BEARD. BARBE-DE-Bouc BARBE-DE-BOUC - Wild salsify, of of which which GOAT'S several varieties varieties are known. known. The tender shoots of of some sorne are are several eaten like like asparagus, asparagus, the roots roots of others are prepared like scorzonera (see (see SALSIFY). SALSIFY). scorzonera There is is a variety of goat's goat's beard cultivated in Belgium Belgium There witloof, which which in France France is called caUed endive. endive. caUed witloof, called

GOÉMON -- Type of of seaweed. seaweed. GOEMON 428

GOOSE GOOSE goose. any any ofofthe the culinary culinarymethods methodsapplied applied to to the the common cornmon goose. preserved The Theconfit confitand andvarious variousother otherspecialities specialitiesmade madeofofpreserved goose goose of of the the Toulouse Toulouse species species are are excellent, excellent, but but the the most most liver, especially the is, of course, part this bird of delicate delicate part of this bird is, of course, the liver, especially when anintensive intensivecramming, cramming, coupled cou pIed with with total total immobilisaimmobilisawhen an tion, tion, have have enlarged enlarged this this organ organ to to the the state state of of complete complete fatty fatty degeneration. degeneration. For For many many centuries centuries the the goose goose was was considered considered the the best best of of geese' poultry. poultry. In In Paris, Paris, r6tisseurs rôtisseurs principally principally sold sold roast roast geese, years' hence hence the the name name of ofoyers oyers by by which which they they were, were, for for many rnany years, described in their their statutes. statutes. described in In In England England the the goose goose has has always always been been greatly greatly appreciated. appreciated. goose, On On Michaelmas Michaelmas Day Day itit was was the the custom custom to to serve serve roast roast goose, prepared prepared in in the the traditional traditional English English way, way, stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. on ions. This This tradition tradition goes goes back back to to the the sixteenth sixteenth century century and and Alfred Alfred Suzanne Suzanne in in his bis book book la la Cuisine Cuisine Anglaise, Anglaise, described described its its origins origins as as follows: follows: 'The 'The 29th 29th September, September, Michaelmas Michaelmas Day, Day, isis the the anniversary anniversary of of aa great great naval naval victory victory won won by by the the English English against against the the Spaniards. Spaniards. Queen Queen Elizabeth Elizabeth was was at at table table when wh en the the news news of of the the sinking sinking of of the the Spanish Spanish Armada Armada was was brought brought to to her. her. was roast 'The 'The principal principal dish dish that that day day was roast goose, goose, to to which which the the Queen, Queen, itit was was said, said, was was particularly particularly partial, partial, and and in in an an excited excited gourmandism, she she decreed . . gourmandism, outburst outburst of of patriotism patriotism and and .... decreed that that this this glorious glorious occasion occasion be be commemorated commemorated · by by serving serving roast roast goose goose on on that that day day every every Year.' year.' prorequires and geese tough rather is of adult The The flesh fiesh of adult geese is rather tough and requires proyoung of young flesh of the fl.esh longed cooking, usually longed cooking, usually braising, braising, but but the the where the France, where In northern northern France, delicate. In goose is is tender tender and and delicate. goose is it is south, it the south, than in appreciated than goose is is more common goose cornmon more appreciated in the time during during for aa time cold for to cold expose the customary to customary to expose the birds birds to tender. flesh tender. make the the flesh winter, to to make winter, G6rard table, Charles Charles Gérard Alsace àd table, I'ancienne Alsace In his his book book l'ancienne In wrote: wrote: has turned it man has art of of man the art but the is nothing, nothing, but 'The bird itself is bird itself 'The turned it results, aa produces marvellous marvellous results, which produces an instrument instrument which into an into of fruit of supreme fruit the supreme which the gieenhouse in in which living greenhouse of living kind of kind grown.' gastronomy is is grown.' gastronorny gastronomy', of gastronomy', fruit of gras isis indeed the'supreme indeed the Thefoie The foie gras 'supreme fruit Toulouse, or Toulouse, Strasbourg or is in in Strasbourg prepared as as itit is when especially wh especially en prepared gosling, the bird isis as goose, young or a flesh of the but but the flesh of a young go ose, or gosling, as the bird and a great despised, and not to to be be despised, old, isis not months old, to 77 months up to called up caUed a great goose' like duck, young goose, A young highly. A gastronomes rank rank itit highly. many gastronomes many like duck, its underbill. pliability of underbill. of its by the the pliability recognised by can be be recognised can the goose Stuff the L'ALSAcIENNE -- Stuff ors ÀA L'ALSACIENNE l'alsacienne. OIE Goose ài l'alsacienne. goose Goose pan-roast in and roasting it for Truss meat. sausage with with sausage meat. Truss it for roasting and pan-roast itit in (q.v.) separately, braised sauerkraut uirth Garnish butter. Garnish with sauerkraut (q.v.) braised separately, butter. with juices added. sauerkraut with the sauerkraut Alternate the added. Alternate cooking juices with cooking with sausages. poached Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages. and poached bacon and pieces of lean bacon of lean pieces pour andpour vealstock stock and andveal wine and white wine pan juices with with white the panjuices bilute the Dilute goose. the goose. over the over

GOGUFS GO GUES(Angevin (Angevincookery) cookery)-- Chop Chopfinely tinelyequal equal quantities quantities

of of onions, onions, spinach, spinach, beet beet and and lettuce. lettuce. Season Season with with salt salt and and leave leavefor for 1212hours. hours. Next Nextday daycook cookthe thevegetables vegetablesininlard lard until until

are very very soft. soft. they are they Dice in weight weight to to the the mixed mixed vegetables. vegetables. Dice fat fat bacon bacon equal equal in Cook Cook the thebacon baconaa little, little, and and add add itit to to the the vegetables. vegetables. Season Season with with pepper, pepper, salt salt and and allspice. allspice. Add Add enough enough pig's pig's blood blood to to make aa thin thin mixture. mixture. make Mix thoroughly and and wrap wrap in in thin thin pieces pieces of of beef, beef, 20 20 cm. cm. Mix thoroughly (8 (8 inches) inches) long. long. Secure Secure the the ends. ends. Simmer Sirnmer the the gogues gogues in in salt salt water water for for 2f 2i hours. hours. Drain Drain and and leave leave to to cool. cool. When the the gogues gogues are are quite quite cold, cold, slice slice them them and and toss toss in in When on both both sides. sides. butter, browning browning them them slightly slightly on butter, GOGUETTE - Old name name foraflat for a fiat sausagemade sausage made from from highly highly GOGLJETTE-OId spiced pork pork stuffing. stuffing. spiced

GOLD. GOLD. on OR -- Precious Precious non-rusting non-rusting metal metal sometimes sometimes used used in in certainpatés and the Middle Middle Ages Ages in in thin thin leaves leaves for for wrapping wrapping ceftainpatis the roast birds. birds. Gold Gold isis still still used used for for this tbis pulpose purpose in in the the Far Far East. East. roast GOOD KING KING HENRY HENRY lAllgoo4 (Allgood, English English mercury). mercury). noNBONGOOD

HENRl - Plant commonly found in wild places, places, frequently frequently HENRI

-

is also also called caUed wild wild spinach. spinach. The The It is growing against walls. It leaves are are cooked like like spinach. spinach. They They should should be be cooked cooked in in two two leaves waters and and the the first, tirst, green green and and bitter, should should be be thrown thrown waters away. The The young shoots shoots are are sometimes sometimes eaten like like asparagus. asparagus. away.

geese which are of geese GOOSE. oE OIE -- All Ali the species species of are used used as as food food GOOSE. wi/d goose. goose. in Europe are the issue of the wild and In France two varieties of geese are raised, raised, the petite petite and about 33 kg. goose (petite) the weighs about the grosse. The smaller goose @etite) weighs attain fattening they attain (6i lb.) on average. After methodical fattening (61 (ll lb.) are excellent excellent roasting birds. and are lb.) and the weight of 5 kg. (Il in any any way suitable for goose treated in can be be treated ose can This This common go poultry, especially especially turkey. weighing 55 kg. (grosse) is heavy bird, bird, weighing goose (grosse) is aa heavy The The big big goose (22 to to 12 kg. kg. (22 l0 to to 12 (ll lb.) reaching 10 and reaching average and (lI lb.) on the average on the 26t lb.) after after fattening. 2eb.) Toulouse, around Toulouse, mainly around found mainly are found type are Geese of this this type Geese of The bird bird isis basin. The in the the Garonne Garonne basin. and in bred, and where are bred, where they they are goose is is aa goose; the the Strasbourg Stasbourg goose Toulouse goose; the Toulouse usually called called the almost its body body almost carries its This bird bird carries same breed breed.. This species of the the same species of the drags on on the 'artichoke', drags called 'artichoke', its behind, behind, caUed perpendicularly; its perpendicularly; process. The The skin skin covering covering fattening process. ground even the fattening ground before the even before wattle, lappet, or or wattle., forming aa lappet, slack, forming and slack, its loose and its breast breast isis loose goose that that isis of goose variety of store. It It isis this this variety fat store. which constitutes aa fat which constitutes d'oie. confit d'oie. for the the confit of France France for used south-west of in the the south-west used in made are made livers which which are provide the the livers geese also also provide The The Toulouse Toulouse geese produced in in gras with trtffies, produced with truffies, pdtis de de foie into famous pâtés into the the famous foie gras and other other in Strasbourg Strasbourg and Landes, in the Landes, Gers, the in the the Gers, Toulouse, Toulouse, in flesh, its tiesh, however flavoursome flavoursome its This variety, variety, however parts parts of of France. France. This by be treated treated by cannot be and cannot confit d'oie d'oie and isis used making confit for making used only only for

(right)and goose femalego andfemale Male(right) Male ose geese Toulousegeese Toulouse

429 429

GOOSE GOOSE Gmseili l'ang1aise lnanglaise(English style).OIE omÀAL'ANGLAISE r'.lNcrrusn - - Stuff Stuff @nglishstyle). Goose goose with the goose with the the following: following: the (2|lb.) Bake 1I kg. kg. (2* unpeeled onions onions in in the theoyen oven and and allow allow to to Bake lb.) unpeeled cool. Peel Peel and and chop, chop, adding adding to to them them an an equal weight weight of of cool. pressed crustless soaked and and pressed crustless bread. bread. Season with 1lf teaspoons soaked t teaspoons pinch of pepper, aa little salt, aa pinch grated nutmeg of pepper, little grated nutmeg and and 33 tabletablesalt, (scant I cup) spoons (scant cup) chopped chopped sage. sage. spoons Truss the goose and the goose and roast roast in in the the oyen or on oven or on aa spit. Arrange Truss on aa dish, dish, spoon spoon over over sorne some of of the pan juices, and the diluted diluted pan on serve with with apple apple sauce, sauce, cooked cooked without without sugar sugar or or only only very very serve slightly sweetened. sweetened. slightly Ballottine and galantine of goose. BALLOTTINE, and galantine of goose. BALLorrrNE, GALANTINE cALANTTNE Ballottine D'oIE -- Prepare Iike like Galantine (see CHICKEN) Galantine of chicken chicken (see CHICKEN) D'OlE goose, fine using boned goose, pork or fiue pork or chicken forcemeat, forcemeat, truffles, truffies, pickled tongue tongue and ham cut and harn cut in in dice dice or or thin thin strips. strips. Ballottine of goose isis usually of goose usually served served cold, cold, the the Jiquor liquor in in Ballottine jelly. ItIt can which itit was was cooked cooked being being made made into into jelly. can also also be be wruch hot accompanied served hot accompanied by garnish. by aa gamish. served Goose àI la la bourguignonne. OIE oru ÀA LA m BOURGUIGNONNE BouRGUTcNoNNE -Goose Prepare as for Chicken d la (see CHICKEN). la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see CHICKEN). Braised goose with gamishes. OIE with various various gamisbes. ore BRAISÉE sRArsEE -- PrePrepare like (see TURKEY). like Braised turkey turkey (see TURKEY). pare Goose àt la la chipolata. chipolata. OIE ore ÀA LA m CHIPOLATA csporATA -- Prepare, panGoose roasted or or braised, braised, as as Turkey Turkey àd la (see TURKEY). la chipolata chipolata (see roasted goose. CIVET Civet of of goose. crveT D'OIE D'oE -- Prepare Prepare like (see like Civet Civet of of hare hare (see Civet HARE) using goose cut using goose cut into into uniform uniform pieces. HARE) Confit d'oie goose, pluck and singe itit and d'oie 1I -- Bleed Bleed the the goose, and Confit quite cold leave until until quite cold before before cutting. cutting. Slit open the back comcomleave pletely, c1ean clean out out the the bird bird and and remove remove the the liver, taking care care pletely, not to (The Iiver to damage it. (The damage it. liver can can be used separately separately for rnaking making not pdtis.) Divide terrines and and pâtés.) Divide the goose into the goose pieces. Leave into 44 pieces. Leave terrines intact the the bones bones connected connected to these pieces in order to prevent intact the ftesh flesh losing losing its is shape shape too too much during cooking. the goose, put Salt the of goose, earthenware put them into a large earthenware Salt the pieces pieces of pot and leave in aa cold cold place for 24 hours. leave in place for pot and When are thoroughly with salt, salt, take When they they are thoroughly impregnated with them out, brush off the salt and wipe with a c1oth. cloth. brush off them out, goose fat. Cook in fat. When the fat has has solidified, the fat Cook in clarified c1arified goose cut small pieces, into aa deep deep pot, with a it into into small pieces, put put into pot, moisten witb cut it few of water, add aa muslin bag containing containing few tablespoons tablespoons of water, and add several cloves cloves, and sorne some peppercorns, several cloyes ofgarlic, aa few cloyes, pelPp(~rConlS and goose in until this is three and heat. heat. Do Do not not put the pieces pieces of goose quarters quarters melted. melted. Cook on on aa moderate heat for about 1I hour. Test sure the goose Test with with aa big needle needle to make sure goose is done. The juice clear, which indijuice which which comes cornes out should be perfectly perfectly c1ear, cates that the the cooking cooking is complete. cates that Drain Drain the the pieces of goose and remove rem ove the carcase bones. Put Put aa thick thick layer of of the fat in in which the goose was cooked, clarified clarified and strained, into a big big earthenware earthenware jar, jar, glazed on the completely solid, put put in the pieces the inside. inside. When When the the fat is completely of of goose, so so that that they they do not not touch touch the the wall wall of of the the jar. jar. Cover with warm warm goose fat. fat. Leave Leave for for 2 days. days. Strain Strain into into the pot some sorne hot fat to seal any When this this is is well weil congealed, congealed, pour pour a layer of of lard any holes. holes. When over over it, il, and and when when this this isis set, set, put put aa circle circ!e of of greaseproof greaseproof on on top, top, pressing pressing itit down down to to make make itit adhere. adhere. Cover Coyer the the top of of the the jar jar with with aa double double thickness thickness of of paper and and tie tie with with string. Confit Confit d'oie d'oie prepared in in this way way will will keep for for aa very very long long time. can also also be canned, canned, the the cans cans being being placed in in boiling boiling time. It1t can water. water. Confit and rub rub Confit d'oie d'oie II II -- Cut Cut the the goose into quarters and whole whole surface surface with with spiced spiced salt, prepared by mixing I1 kg. (2t lb.) g. (i Üoz.) oz.) saltpetre, 4 crushed cloves, 2 pounded lb.) salt, salt, 66 e. bay bay leaves, leaves, aa good good pinch pinch of pounded pounded thyme. thyme. Put Put the the pieces pieces of ofgoose goose into in to an an earthenware earthenware pot, pot, glazed glazed on on the in this this the inside. inside. Cover Coyer with with spiced spiced salt. salt. Leave Leave to to steep steep in seasoning 24 hours. hours. sealsomnlg for for 24 Take Take the pieces pieces of of goose goose out, out, shake shake off off surplus surplus salt, salt, and and

piecescarefully. wipethe the pieces carefully.Put Putthem theminto potininwhich intoaabig bigpot which wipe goosefat fathas hasbeen lefttotomelt been!eft meltslowly. slowly. Cook Cook on onlow low heat heatfor for goose It hours. hours. I~ Testthe the piecesof goosewith ofgoose with aathick thickstraw, straw,which which should should Test penetrate theftesh flesh easily.Drain quarters, put Drain the putthem thequarters, theminto into theearthenwarejar. earthenware jar. Strainthe thehot hot fat fatover overtbem, them, making makingsure sure the meat meat isis covered covered completely. completely. When quite cold Whenquite coldand the andthe the goose fat fat has hasbecome become congealed, pour aalayer congealed, pour layerof oflard, goose lard, about about cm. (~(t inch) inch) thick, thick, over over the the surface. surface. The The lard lard isisdenser 1I cm. denser inin consistency and and this this operation will will ensure ensure that that the theconfit consistency confitwill wlll long time. keep for for aa long time. Store in place. in aacool, cool, dry dry place. keep pieces of jar for When taking goose out taking pieces of goose out of of the the jar for use, When use,care care must be be taken taken to seetbat tosee that the the remaining remaining pieces pieces are must are completely completely covered by by the the fat. fat. covered Confit d'oie d'oie isis one one of of the the specialities specialities of of Languedoc Languedoc and Confit and Gascogne, and and an an essential ingredient for garbure (q.v.), essential ingredient (q.v.), for the Gascogne, the garbure the most most characteristic characteristic of of Béarn B6arn dishes. dishes. the 'Leg of preserved goose,' says Simm of preserved 'isaadish Simin Palay, 'Leg Palay, 'is dish which which always ready ready should aa relative or guest arrive or aa guest isis always arrive ununexpectedly. An An old old country country saying saying assures assures us: expectedly. us: 'Lou qui qui aa coéche coiche d'auque d'auque aa hourrup hourrup de 'Lou de bi, bi, parent ou embita parent ou besi' besi' Que pot embUa which means: means: 'He who goose leg who has has aa goose leg and and aa little 'He little wine wine can can safely safely invite invite relatives or or neighbours.' neighbours.' relatives In Languedoc Languedoc confit confit d'oie d'oie isis used preparation of usod for In for the the preparation of (q.v.). ItIt can cassoulet (q.v.). can also also be cassoulet be served served on its own, on its own, hot hot or or cold, cold, garnish. Here with or or without without garnish. Here are with are sorne some recipes for serving recipes for serving itit hot: hot: Confit d'oie, d'oig Basque. Basque. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE Confit o'om ÀA LA LA BASQUAISE BAseuArsn -- Heat Heat quarters of the quarters goose in of goose in their their own the own fat, garnish with fat, drain, drain, and and garnish with cipes cooked cooked in in aa mixture mixture of cèpes of oil goose fat oil and and goose fat in in equal proproportions, and and mixed mixed with with chopped parsley parsley and portions, and garlic. Confit d'oie d'oie ài la la béarnaise b6arnalse -- Heat the Confit pieces of the pieces goose in of goose in their own own fat, fat, and and drain. drain. Garnish in slices their Garnish with with th thin slices of of raw raw potato fried in goose fat in goose potato fried fat and and sprinkled with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon parsley mixed with aa pinch of chopped parsley chopped garlic. of pounded garlic. green cabbage. Coffit d'oie witb with green Confit cabbage. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE D'oE AUX AUx CHOUX cHorx vERTs -- Prepare green cabbage as VERTS as described described in in the recipe for for Braised cabbage cabbage (see CAB Braised BAGE). When CABBAGE). When nearly done, done, add add aa fat. Arrange the piece piece of goose coated with the fat. piece of goose of goose on aa dish, dish, surround surround with on with the the cabbage, garnish with cabbage, and and garnish boiled potatoes. jJV,.«L~}""'" Confit d'oie witb with kidney kidney beans. beans. CONFIT D'oE AUX coNFrr D'OIE Ar.x HARICOTS HARrcors BLANcS -- Add Add the goose to pieces of BLANCS the pieces of goose to beans beans cooked cooked àd la la (see BEANS), BEANS), simmer bretonne (see simmer for a few minutes minutes and serve in a timbale. Confit d'oie d'oie with Confit with lentils. CONFIT coNFrr D'OIE D'orE AUX Ar;x LENTILLESLENrrLLss - Cook 1I litre (lf (l i pints, generous quart) lentils with the usual lentils with usual aromatics. maties. Drain, and simmer with a few tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown veal stock. Add the pieces pieces of brown of goose about 25 minutes before serving. Heat gently with the pan covered. Confit d'oie with peas, peas, or ià la landaise. CONFIT Confit coNFrr D'OIE D'orE AUX AUx pETITs PETITS pors, POIS, Drr DIT A À re LA r,tNDltg LANDAISE - Remove the the surplus fat covering a piece of confit d'oie. covering Melt Melt some sorne goose fat in an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole and fry in it 8 small small onions and (3 tablespoons) diced and 2 tablespoons (3 diced Bayonne ham. Add I1 litre (lf (Li pints, generous quart) freshly shelled peas. peas. Cook for 5 minutes. Sprinkle in I tablespoon shelled cook for for aa few moments, stirring stirring with with aa wooden spoon, Rour, cook flour, spoon, j cup) water moisten moisten with with I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant! water and seaseaand I1 teaspoon sugar. sugar. Add a bouquet son with a little salt and garni garni consisting of parsley, parsley, chervil, tarragon and bay leaf. Cook with with a lid lid on on for for 40 minutes. Put Put in in the the piece piece of of confit Cook and finish finish cooking, cooking, with with the the casserole covered, for d'oie and d'oie 25 minutes. minutes. 25 la sarladaise sarladaise -- Prepare as as Confit d'oie d'oie Ià la la p6rigourdine ià la Confit of saut6ed sautéed potatoes Confit d'oie d la biarnaise with aa garnish of

*

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GOUFFE GOUFFÉ Roast Rosst goose. goose. on OIE ndn RÔTI -- This This method method of cooking isis suitable sui table only only for for aa very very young young and and tender tender goose. It can be roasted in the the oven oyen or or on on aa spit, spit, and and should be left a little underdone. Roast goose Roast goose dà I'anglaise l'anglaise isis stuffed stuffed with with sage sage and and onions. onions.

(sliced (sliced raw raw and and fried fried in in goose goose fat) fat) mixed mixed with with slivers slivers of of truffies. truffies. Goose daube Capitole. Capitole. oIE OIE EN EN DAUBE DAUBE cAPIToLE CAPITOLEStuffthe Goose en en daube - Stuffthe goose goose with with aa fine fine forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with withfoie gras and and diced diced foie gras truffies. Truss and and braise braise in in the the usual usual way. When When the the goose goose isis truffies. Truss nearly done, strain strain the the braising liquor liquor through aa fine fine strainer. strainer. nearly done, Remove Remove trussing trussing string and put put the the goose back back into into the the pan pan with with 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small mushrooms mushrooms,,250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) stoned stoned blanched olives, and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) small small chipolata chipolata sausages sausages blanched tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Pour Pour in in the the braising braising liquor liquor and and finish finish cookcookin aa low low oven. oyen. ing in la flamande. flamande. on OIE A À LA LA FLAMANDrFLA,\1ANDE - Braise Braise the the goose Goose ià la in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Garnish d à la la flamande flamande (see (see GARNISHES). NISHES). Boil down the the braising braising liquor, liquor, strain and and pour pour over the goose. FRITTONS, cRATToNs GRATTONS D'oIE D'OIE -Goose frittons or grattons. FRITToNS, Name for for the residue residue which which remains remains in in the the pot pot after after goose goose fat fat melts. melts. Minute fragments fragments of of flesh, flesh, which which are are trimmed trimmed off off the quarters of of goose go ose while while preparingconfit preparing confit d'oie,are d'oie, are sometimes sometimes added to this residue. residue. The frittons are are drained, drained, pressed to extract all the the fat fat them, seasoned seasoned with salt and then left to get cold. cOlntamexi in them, contained Frittons Frittons are eaten as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. They can be pressed into a block by moulding them in a bowl or other receptacle. receptacle. Goose giblets and pinions. pinions. ABATIS, ABATIS, AILsRoNso'orrAILERONS D'OIE- Prepare Prepare in any of the ways given for turkey giblets giblets (see (see GIBLETS). GIBLETS). geese are Goose livert. livers. FoIEs FOIES D'oIE D'OIE - Livers of of roasting roasting geese can be prepared of all as for prepared as for livers livers of ail other poultry. poultry. They They can Madeira, saut6ed with mushrooms, in on skewers, sautéed cooked on in Madeira, garnish as a garnish with truffies, pilaf, risotto, etc. They can be used as entrie in different ways, for eggs eggs prepared in for ways, or with various various entrée dishes. They are also used for preparing d gratin forcemeat (see

Snoked Smoked bieast breast of of goose. goose. PoITRINE POITRINE D'oIE D'OIE FLTM6E FUMÉE -- This This prepre-

paration, 1J"'''''Vll, which which is is made made in in Alsace Alsace and and in in Germany, Germany, can can be be found in in shops, shops, cooked cooked ready ready for for use. use. It It is is eaten eaten cold, cold, like Iike smoked smoked ham, ham, and and isis also also aa garnish garnish for for sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Sfuffed Stuffed goose goose nocks. necks. cous cous D'oE D'OlE FARcIs FARCIS -- This This makes makes an an excellent excellent hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre and and isis eaten eaten as as aa sausage. sausage. ItIt isis prepared prepared in in various various regions of of south-western south-western France France when when confit confit d'oie d'oie is is being being made. Bone Bone the the necks, necks, leaving a good deal deal ofthe of the skin skin covering covering the the breast breast attached attached to to them. them. Using the the flesh flesh taken taken off off the the bones, bones, make make aa forcemeat, forcemeat, adding adding some sorne minced minced pork, pork, mixed mixed with with aa small quantity of of goose goose liver liver and and diced diced truffies. truffies. Season Season and and stuffthe necks. Cook Cook them them in in goose fat, fat, and and keep keep in in earthenearthenware ware jars jars as as pieces pieces of of confit confit d'oie. Goose Goose tongues. longues. LANGUEs LANGUES o'on D'OIE -- In In B6arn, Béarn, the the tongues tongues of ofbig big geese, which are are used used for for making making confit, confit, are are cooked cooked on on aa geese, which

grill. grill.

Goose Goose ià la la mode mode de de Vis4 Visé, also also called caJled ià I'instar l'instar de de Vis6 Visé (Flemish OIE A À ul LA MoDE MODE DE DE vls6, VISÉ, A À L'INsrAR L'INSTAR DE DE (FJemish cookery). cookery). on yet started vls6 Cook a young young goose goose that that has has not not started laying, laying, in in VISÉ - Cook white white stock stock spiced spiced with with 2 2 bulbs bulbs of of garlic. Drain, Drain, cut eut into into pieces, sprinkle sprinkle with with goose goose fat, fat, and and simmer in in a a saut6 sauté pan pan with with the lid lid on. on. with (see flour Velouti sauce Prepare Prepare a a Velouté sauce (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), mixing flour with goose the roux goose fat fat for for the roux (q.v.) (q.v.) and and using using the the liquor liquor in which which the the the velouti goose goose was was poached. poached. Keep Keep on on simmering simmering the velouté for for an an hour: should be hour; it it should be rather rather thick. thick. Make Make a a liaison liaison with with 4 4 egg yolks for Chicken Chicken fricassie as for fricassée (see (see CHICKEN). Strain Strain the yolks as good tableI good few tablespoons add to sauce, add to it it aa few tablespoons cream cream and 1 tablegarlic cooked (see PUREE), Garlic purie spoon Gar/ic purée (sec PURÉE), using using the the garlic cooked with the with the goose. goose. Heat sauce. Heat Drain the Drain the pieces pieces of goose dry and and put put into into the the sauce. serve heaped on a dish. well and and serve well

FORCEMEATS). geese, can be prepared in liver of offattened Foie gras, that is, Iiver fattened geese, prepared in (See FOIE FOIE GRAS.) GRAS.) and cold. (See innumerable ways, both hot and pArf FROID FRoID D'oIE - Using goose meat preGoose pit6, cold. PÂTÉ (see PATE, Cotd pdtis). pdtd, cold (see pare like like Chi,cken pâté, pare pArE CHAUD goose Prepare, using goose D'oF -- Prepare, pit6, hot. cs.luo D'Op: hot. PÂTÉ Goose pâté, Iiot pdtis).pdti, hot (see PA PATE, rneat, like liki Chicken Chicken pâté, Ineat, TÉ, Hot pâtés). goose meat meat eut cut in in D'oIE -- Use Rlco0rs D'OIE Use goose rago0ts. RAGOÛTS Goose ragoûts. Goose uniform pieces. garnished in in various ways. They can ragofits can be garnished These ragoûts with celeriac, with la chipolata, chipolata, with la bourgeoise, bourgeoise, àd la be made made àd la be RAGOOT.) chestnuts, olives, etc. (See RAGOÛT.) olives, etc. turnips, chestnuts, LA BONNE BoNNE o'ore À A LA RAGoOT D'OlE la bonne bonne femme. RAGOÛT Goose rago0t ài la Goose pieces. into uniform uniform pieces. medium-sized goose into FEMME -- Cut aa medium-sized FEMME pieces into put the into aa sauté saut6 pepper and put the pieces and pepper with salt salt and Season with Season (3 tablespoons) butter clarified butter tablespoons) clarified pan in tablespoons (3 in which which 22 tablespoons pan carand aa car(or goose big onion onion and goose fat) Add aa big heated. Add fat) have been been heated. (or goose and pieces of and the the quarters. Brown the pieces of goose Brown the rot, cut cut into into quarters. rot, well. •vegetables ...,J';...,L<~uJ'...,,, weil. in 22 sprinkle in goose are browned, sprinkle are weil well browned, of goose When the the pieces of the fry, stirring stirring the and fry, flour and tablespoons) flour tablespoons (3 tablespoons) garlic, moisten moisten of garlic, clove of Add aa smaU small crushed crushed clove ragofrt on onthefire. Add ragoût (} pin pint, scant 22 add 44 dl. dl. (i and add glass of white wine wine and of white half aa glass with half with t, scant garni, and for 40 40 minutes, minutes, and cook cook for Add aa bouquet garni, cups) stock. stock. Add pan covered. the pan keeping the placed over Trim them them bowl. Trirn over aa bowl. pieces in in aa sieve sieve placed Drain the the pieces g. (9(9 oz.) small pan. Add oz.) small Add 250 250 g. put into cleaned pan. and put into the the c1eaned and (9 oz.) lean bacon bacon eut cut oz.) lean in butter, 250.g. (9 butter, 250.g. lightly tossed tossed in onions, Iightly onions, (2i lb.) lb.) and 1I kg. (2* lightly fried, fried, and pieces, scalded and lightly scalded and into small small pieces, into add fat from from the the sauce, add potatoes. Skim quartered potatoes. Skim offsurplus fat nll:lTfPT,>ti (see PURÉE) purde (see PUREE) (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Tomato purée 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 goose. Put for aa moment, moment, the stove stove for pour itit over Put on on the the goose. and pour over the and stirring, for for without stirring, hot oven, pan and oven, without cook inin aa hot cover the the pan and cook coyer 45 minutes. minutes. 45

green in colour cRosEILLE -- Large GOOSEBERRY. GROSEILLE GOOSEBERRY. Large berry, berry, green in col our gooseberry is is variety of of gooseberry one variety In French French one red. In with red. or streaked with or preparain the is used maquereau because called groseille àd maquereau because it it is used in the with mackerel. is served served with sauce which, which, traditionally, is tion of a sauce tion m2lcken:1. grown in Normandy in Normandy In France, France, gooseberries are mainly grown In and other other northern districts. and

made of of sweet made Name of of aa sweet GORENTLOT (pâtisserie) GORENFLOT @itisserie) -- Name This cake cake mould. This in aa hexagonal mould. baked in dough baked baba (q.v.) dough baba the middle middle of of in the Maison Bourbonneaux in the Maison was first made at the was its creator, creator, by its Gorenflot by It was was called called Gorenflot century. It nineteenth century. the nineteenth play la Dame la Dame Dumas' play hero of of Alexandre Alexandre Dumas' memory of of the the hero in memory in de Monsoreau. Monsoreau. de (see CHEESE). Italian cheese cheese (see CHEESE). GORGONZOLA -- Italian GORGONZOLA

(q.v.) to wine is is garbure (q.v.) red or or white white wine to which which red A garbure GOUDALE -- A GOUDALE Biarn, says says that that aa en Béarn, his la /c Cuisine Cuisine en Palay, in in his added. Sim Simin added. in Palay, garbure. When When goudale is to every every garbure. conclusion to traditional conclusion is the the traditional goudale the eaten, the have been been eaten, of this this broth broth have the bread bread and and vegetables of the red pr white white cup of of red pours into into his plate a generous cup diner pours diner plate, of the plate, bottom of at the the bottom with the soup left at wine, mixes mixes itit with wine, it. and drinks drinks il. and remedy to be be aa sovereign sovereign remedy goudale isis considered in Béarn B6arn to considered in The goudale The proverb isis to to be be believed: believed: for illness, illness, if if aa local local proverb for pla adoubado, 'Goudale pla adoubado, 'Goudale medecin.' la pocho deu deu medecin.' de la 'Tiro un un escut escut de 'Tiro the doctor's doctor's ('A weil-made well-made goudale keeps a coin from the CA pocket.') pocket.') greatest chefs of the the chefs of one of of the the greatest was one Jules Gouffé Gouff6 was GOUFFEGOUFFÉ - Jules nineteenth century. century. nineteenth 431 431

GOUGELHOF GOUGELHOF Born Born in in Paris Paris in 1807, 1807, he had a talent for cookery cookery from his early youth. His father, an established established pastry-cook pastry-cook in the Saint-Merri taught him him the the basic basic princinles princioles of Saint-Merri quarter, quarter, taught cookery. It was then that Car€me, Carême, hearing of the talerr. talell. .f vi the the young young Goutr6 Gouffé - who at 17 was already showing promise in in the the decoration decoration and presentation presentation of set pieces pieces -- took him into into his kitchens in the Austrian Embassy Embassy in Paris. Car6me Carême turnod him into into a model craftsman, craftsman, a celebrity celebrity of of his day. turned him In ln 1840, 1840, Jules Gouff6 Gouffé set up on his own in the Faubourg Faubourg Saint-Honor6; Saint-Honoré; his his restaurant restaurant became became one one of of the the best best in Paris. back to work in 1867, 1867, Paris. In In 1855 he retired, but went back encouraged eider and encouraged by by those those famous gourmets, Dumas the elder Baron of epicures epicures offered him the post of Baron Brisse. This pair of head head chef chef at at the the Jockey Jockey Club. It It was at this time tirne that Gouff6 Gouffé began on his his Livre Livre de cuisine, a magnificent magnificent book book which which began work work on deserves of cookery, cookery, side side by by side side with deserves a place place in in every every library library of the Carême, Plumerey, Plumerey, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Emile Emile the works works of Car6me, Bernard, Bernard, Escoffier, Escoffier, etc. etc. A few lines lines from the the master's master's preface preface will suffice suffice to show show A few the of his his work: work : the importance importance of 'Having, from my my earliest earliest youth, youth, embarked upon a career career of of cookery, cookery, I1 saw much, much, observed observed much, practised much mu ch in every every sense of of the the word. word. I1 am not one one of of those those who who declare declare that that French French cookery cookery -- that part part of of our national national heritage of which which we we have have reason reason to to be be proud proud -- is is lost today today and that that it will never never recover. recover. The The good and true true things never never die. No will doubt doubt there there may may be be periods periods of of decline, decline, but but sooner or later, la ter, with with hard hard work, work, intelligence intelligence and and good good will, there must must be be a r@overy. recovery. 'If, thanks thanks to to the the reforms reforms and and the the methods methods which I1 propose, that in in aa few few years' years' time time everyone, everyone, whatever whatever his his pose, I1 find find that is eating eating as as well weil as he he possibly possibly can; that, that, on rank in in society, society, is rank the one one hand, hand, household household cookery cookery is is at last last being being carried out the with care, care, economy economy and and comfort; comfort; and and on on the the other other hand hand the the with grande grande caisine cuisine goes goes forward forward under under progressive progressive conditions, conditions, that good good taste taste and and brilliance brilliance which which is is so appropriate appropriate to to with that with of enlightenment enlightenment and and luxury luxury like our own; then then I1 century of aa century shaH have have truly truly attained attained the the goal goal which which I1have have set set myself myself .... shall . . I1 shall feel feel myself myself well weil paid paid for for all ail my my pains.' pains.' shall ln 1872, 1872, Jules Jules Gouff6 Gouffé published pu blished le le Livre Livre de de pdtisserie, pât isserie, then then ln le Livre Livre des des conserves. conserves. le In 1875 1875 le le Livre Livre des des soupes soupes et et des des potages potages was was published, published. In point of of a whole whole lifetime lifetime devoted devoted to to This was was the the crowning crowning point This remarkable work work in in the the field field of of cookery. cookery. remarkable Gouffé died died at at Neuilly Neuilly n in 1877. 1877. Gouff6

gougire is cold, but it may The more usual way to serve a gougère servod hot as hors-d'œuvre. also be served hors-d'euvre.

GOUGNETTES GOUGNETTES (Lot cookery) -- Type Type of doughnut. doughnut. Prepare do',.h from 500 g. (18 oz., 41 pare a d0"ol, flour, 5 eggs, 75 g. 4l cups) fiour, (3 o2.,6 g.(* oz., 6 tablespoons) sugar and (1 oz.) dried and 10 l0 g. dried or compressed yeast. Leave to rise for about 1 I hour. Roll out out the the dough fioured table. table. Shape flattened dough on aa floured dough small thin loaves, and dough into into small thin loaves, them into and cut cut them into 5-cm. (2-inch.) (2-inch.) pieces. Fry the pieces in very hot fat. fat. Drain the gougnettes when they are crisp and evenly evenly browned. Sprinkle with sugar. (sometimes GOULASCH (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) -- Goulasch (sometimes GOLJLASCH called gulyas) is a kind of beef stew made wi th diced onions of beef with and seasoned seasoned with with Hungarian paprika. and paprika. Several Several kinds kinds of goulasch are are made in in Hungary, and and recipes recipes for them are for them given under BEEF. BEEF. Goulascb soup (Hungarian (Hungarian broth). broth). couI,AscH GOULASCH (romcn) (POTAGE) Goulasch Dice coarsely coarsely 350 350 g. (12 (12 oz.) beef beefsirloin, trimmed and with with ail Dice sirloin, trimmed all fat removed. Brown in butter in a a casserole with 2 tablewith 2 (3 tablespoons) finely chopped onion. Season with spoons (3 Add a little cummin and a salt and a large pinch paprika. Add crushed clove of garlic. small crushd weil browned all aU over, sprinkle When the meat is well sprinkle I1 tableand let it cook for I1 to 2 minutes, but spoon flour fiour over over it. Mix Mix and spoon (2| pints, 2t 11 litres (2i 2i pints) pints) without allowing allowing it to to brown. brown. Add l| without consommé. Bring to the boil and cook slowly for about 33 consomm6. hours. hour before before serving, serving, add to the broth 22 diced potatoes. potatoes. An hour An croûtons fried in butter. butter. Serve with with bread bread cro0tons Serve

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GOURD. couRGE COURGE - Name given given to to many species species of the GOLJRD. Cucurbitaceae famrTy family including inc1uding summer summer and autumn pumpCucarbitaceae marrows, various various summer kins (yellow gourds), vegetable marrows, cushaw, Quaker Quaker or Japanese squashes squashes squashes, Canada or cushaw, (or pumpkin).

GOUGELHOF or or GOUGELHOPF GOUGELHOPF -- See See KUGELHOPF. KUGELHOPF. GOUGELHOF

/j

GOUGÈRE (Burgundian (Burgundian pastry) pastry) -- This This pastry, pastry, which which is is GOUGDRE said to to have have originated originated at at Sens, Sens, isis made made not not only only in in Burgundy Burgundy said but also also at at Troyes, Troyes, in in Champagne, Champagne, and and in in other other districts districts of of but France. France. The dough. dough. Place Place in in a a thick, thick, flat-bottomed fiat-bottomed saucepan saucepan The 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant! pint, generous generous cup) cup) water, water, 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., I! cup) cup) 2+ f pint, As soon soon as as the the water water is is boiling, boiling, butter, and and I1 teaspoon teaspoon salt. salt. As butter, g. move the the saucepan saucepan away away from from the the flame fiame and and add add 200 200 g. move (7 (7 oz.,lfr oz., li cups) cups) sieved sieved flour. fiour. Mix, Mix, then then dry dry the the dough dough over OVE'r aa Chou paste paste high flame, flame, stirring stirring itit with with aa wooden wooden spoon, spoon, like like Chou high (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) until until itit comes cornes away away easily easily from from the the sides sides of of the saucepan. saucepan. the pan from from the the stove stove and and beat beat into into the the mixture mixture Remove the the pan Remove whole eggs, eggs, one one by by one, one, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) finely finely diced diced 55 whole of white white pepper. pepper. Gruyère cheese, cheese, and and aa pinch pinch of Gruydre Making the the cake. cake. With With aa tablespoon, tablespoon, scoop scoop out out pieces pieces of of Making dough, each each the the size size of of an an egg. egg. Put Put them them straight straight into into aa dougb, oneagainst against the theother other in in aa circle. circle. Smooth Smooth the the buttered pie pie dish, dish, one buttered ofaa spoon. spoon. circle on on top top and and round round the the inside inside with with the the back back of circle Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Sprinkle Sprinklewith with very very finely finely diced diced cheese. cheese. Brush Bake in in aa slow slow oven. oyen. Bake

Different varieties varieties of ofgourd: gourd: Different Pumpkin, squashes, squashes, vegetable vegetable marrow Olarrow Pumpkin,

432

GRAPE GRAPE pastry-cooks and other and other multitude of of cooks, cooks, confectioners, pastry-cooks rely turn, rely in their their tum, food, who, who, in diversely named named purveyors of food, kinds. all kinds. needs on on workers of of ail of their their needs for the the satisfaction of to aa wealth wealth of of gives rise, everywhere, to and everywhere, This gives rise, always always and This mind cannot cannot of which even the most lively mind economic activity, ofwhich (Physiologie du du value.' (Physiologie the value.' nor assess the the extent extent nor calculate the go,frt.) goût.)

Gourds are one of the the oldest vegetables vegetables known to man Gourds although itit is is doubtful doubtful ifif any any of of those those grown grown today could be although identified with with the the original original species. species. The The word word gourd is identified North America America for for the the decorative decorative inedible reserved in in North reservd Winter and summer squash squash as well weil as pumpkin are variety. Winter variety. grown on on aa very large large scale. scale. Winter Win ter squash can often be used grown of pumpkin. place of in place GOURILOS -- Gourilos Gourilos are are the stumps stumps of of endive. When When fully GOURILOS grown and tender, they make a a delicately flavoured vegetable. They can be prepared prepared dà la la grecque as an hors-d'œuvre; hors-d'euvre; or as They butter or cream, in gravy, fried, gilled etc. vegetable in butter a vegetable and wash the stumps. stumps. Boil Boil them in salt water Method. Trim and Method. until tender. tender. until Drain and leave to cool. Dry them and cook according to Drain the following recipes.

Gourilos in in butter. butter. GOURILOS BEURRE - Blanch Blanch 12 Gourilos AU BEURRE c,ouRlt-os AU Place in a frying pan with 50 g. gourilos. Place g. (2 oz., iI cup) butter and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) water. Cover for and Cover and cook for minutes. Arrange 40 minutes. butter in which Arrange in a dish and pour on the butter the)' have been cooked, they cooked, to which has been added a tablespoon water or white stock. GouriJos cream. GOURlLOS Cook as as for Gourilos in cream. coIJRILos À A LA r,c, CRÈME cnilrls - Cook (ol pint, J Gourilos in butter. When they are ready, lj dl. dl. (i ready, add add Ii cup) hot fresh Arrange the the cup) minutes. Arrange fresh cream. cream. Simmer for for 8 minutes. gourilos in a dish and pour on the cream. Endive gourilos, gourilos. GOURILOS Blanch the the gourilos, Endive gourilos. FRITs - Blanch couRlI,os FRITS drain, in oil, oil, Steep them them in drain, leave to chill and and dry dry them. them. Steep to cool, cool, chili lemonjuice, lemon juice, salt and pepper for 25 minutes. with aa minutes. Coat Coat them with thin with fat. Drain. Sprinkle Sprinkle with thin frying batter and fry fry in in deep deep fat. batter and salt. Gourilos gravy, bone-marrow sauce or or velout6 sauce Gourilos in in gravy, bone-marrow sauce, sruce, velouté other sauces. vEr.ourf Droerrr, AU AU VELOUTÉ sauces. GOURILOS AU JUS, t,l, MOELLE, couRll.os AU rus, ÀA LA Proceed as (q.v.), using using or celery celery (q.v.), as in recipes recipes for cardoons cardoons (q.v.) or any of these sauces. ofthese sauces. Grilled gourilos gourilos. GOURILOS Blanch the the gourilos Grilled gourilos. couRlI.os GRILLf.<; cnnlfs -- Blanch and juice as gourilos. Grill Grill and soak as for for Fried gourilos. soak in in oil oil and and lemon juice them under aa low Bame, from time with oil oil from time flame, moistening moistening them them with to time. time. Gourilos Blanch the the grecque. GOURILOS Gourilos ài la grecque. rl GRECQUE cnsceur -- Blanch couRlr,os ÀA LA gourilos (see gourilos and grecque (see prepare as for Artichokes Artichokes àd la la grecque and prepare as for HORS-D'ŒUVRE). HORS-D'(EUVRE).

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The gourmand (Collection of 1.-1. T. de Lusse)
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gourmet was never used used was never GOURMET the word word gourmet Formerly, the GOURMET -- Formerly, nowadays. in which isis current current nowadays. inexact sense in the sense which the inexact gourmef, whose was courtier-gourmetcourtier-gourmetThe whose full full title title was The gourmet, gourmand, in connoisseur piqueur, piqueur, was in other other words words aa connoisseur not aa gourmand, was not with the the of good things, sworn official, charged with rather aa sworn official, charged things, but but rather of good were dut y of and spirits. spirits. Gourmets-piqueurs Gourmets-piqueurs were wines and duty of tasting tasting wines once part of Nowadays they they are are organised organised confraternity. Nowadays once part of aa confraternity. into into syndicates. syndicates.

GOURNAY GOURNAY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

GOURMAND, couRcouRMAND, GOURGOURMANDISM. GOURMAND, GOLTRMAND, GOURMANDISM. MANDISE 'gourmandism' to to be be word 'gourmandism' take the the word Many people take MANDIsE -- Many synonymous 'gluttony'. synonymous with with'gluttony'. Brillat-Savarin this interpretation. interpretation. of this critical of sternly critical Brillat-Savarin isis sternly 'Authorities gourmandise have have comcominterpret gourmandise 'Authorities who thus interpret who thus pletely gourmandise which combines the the which combines pletely forgotten forgotten social social gourmandise elegance of and the the delicacy delicacy of Rome and luxury of of Rome of Athens, Athens, the the luxury elegance of France. superwith discernment, discernment, supergourmandise orders France. Such Such gourmandise orders with vises judges with with with enthusiasm, enthusiasm, judges savours with vises with with wisdom, wisdom, savours profundity. well be be precious attribute which may may weil attribute which profundity. ItIt isis aa precious esteemed purest delights. of our our purest delights. the source sourcr of for itit isis the virtue, for esteemed aa virtue, 'Gourmandise habitual passionate, rational and habituai rational and 'Gourmandise.. .. . . isis aa passionate, preference preference for the palate. for ail that flatters flatters thepalate. all that 'Gourmandise gives who gives every man man who of excess; excess; every 'Gourmandise isis the enemy of the enemy himself no longer longer gets drunk, the risk risk of of no runs the drunk, runs himself indigestion indigestion or or gets being gourmand. being aa true true gourmand. 'Delicacy gourmandise, for part of f ot (fr iandise) is of gourmandise, is an an essential essential part 'Delicacy (friandise) delicacy to delicate delicate applied to kind of of discrimination discrimination applied delicacy isis the the same same kind tries and ... titbits pastries . . .'.' preserves, pas sweets. and sweets titbits such such as as preserves, From gourpoint of of gourview, the the advantages advantages of of view, the social social point From the mandism gourmandise,' continues continues 'It isis gourmandise,' innumerable. 'It mandism are are innumerable. Brillat-Savarin, tes the pole to from pole to transport from 'which stimula the transport stimulates Brillat-Savarin, 'which pole indeed pickles, savouries, savouries, indeed pole ofwines, spices, pickles, sugar, spices, of wines, spirits, spirits, sugar, provisions melons. and melons. provisions of down to to eggs eggs and kind, down of every every kind, 'It to the the industrious industrious livelihood to 'It isis this affords aa livelihood this which which affords

pAIN DE GRAHAM Wholemeal bread bread DE GRAHAM cRAHAM -- Wholemeal GRAHAM BREAD. BREAD. PAIN This bread made flours. This bread cereal flours. mixture of of different different cereal made from from aa mixture was Graham. American, Silvester Silvester Graham. in 1840 1840 by by an an American, was invented invented in

GRAIN former tirnes. times.ItIt weighed weighed in former Small weight weight used used in GRAIN -- Small approximately approximately * g.g.

ta

GRAMOLATES made from from Sherbet made or GRAMOLATAS GRAMOLATAS-- Sherbet GRAMOLATES or (See ICE aa granité (q.v.) mixture. ICES.) graniti (q.v.) ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) CREAMS AND mixture. (See GRAND monarchy, the the French monarchy, Vnifnn -- Under the old old French Under the GRAI\D MAÎTRE grand de grand maître, souverain maître maitre de also called called souverain who was was also maitre, who l'hôtel roi was chief royal kitchens. kitchens. ofthe theroyal of ail all the the officers officers of l'h6tel du duroiwas chief of GRAND servedwith with Brownsauce, sauce,served SAUCE -- Brown VENELJR SAUCE GRAhID VENEUR ground (See SAUCES, Brownsauces.) sauces.) groundgame game and SAUCES, Brown venison.(See andvenison. GRANITÉS No Italian Italian meringue meringueisis sherbet. No Type of of sherbet. GRAI\ITES -- Type added ordinarysherbet sherbet done with with ordinary mixture, asas isis done added to to this this mixture, mixture. (SeeICE ICES.) AND ICES.) mixture. (See ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND GRAPE. vine. RArsrN - - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the vine. GRAPE. RAISIN The moreor orless lesswoody woody grape bunch, which isismore Thestem the grape bunch,which stemof of the according tains aa!ittle freeacid acidand andtannin. tannin. littlefree species, con contains according to to the thespecies, The essensubstance, an anessenresinoussubstance, The seeds containaatannin, tannin,aaresinous seedscontain tial playlater laterininthe the into play whichcome comeinto and volatile volatile acids acids which tial oil oil and development development of ofthe thebouquet. bouquet. 433 433

GRAPEFRUIT pulp isis held The pulp place by held in in place by very very thin thin membranous membranous cell cell The (hardly i per per cent walls (hardly! cent of of the the weight weight of of the the fruit) fruit) so so thin thin that that walls juice isis just just about the weight weight of of the the juice about equal equal to to that pulp; that of of the the pulp; the consists mainly mainly of proportions which ofsugar sugar in in proportions which vary vary accordaccorditit consists ing to to_ the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high ing the type of plant and the year, sometimes rising as high as 23! 231per cent of of sugar sugar in in weight, weight, corresponding corresponding to pir to 15 15 per as per cent cent of alcohol in in volume. volume. In good year In aa good year most most choice choice types types cent of alcohol give comparable comparable figures. figures. give

plunged into into aa wash washof of boiling boiling water water and and ash, ash, then then dried dried in plunged in the sun sun on on their their stalks. stalks. the Sultanas. Large Large fruit, practically seedless fruit, practically seedless and and with Sultanas. with aa muscat flavour. flavour. muscat Currants. Mainly Mainly from from the the Greek Greek islands. islands. Small, Small, seedless, seedless, Currants. washd with with ash ash and and stripped stripped from from their their stalks. stalks. washed grapes are Dried grapes are used used in in cookery, pastry-making and cookery, pastry-making and Dried confectionery. They They can can still still be be used used to to make make wine wine after confectionery. after being soaked. soaked. being jelly. CONFITURE Grape jeUy. coNrrruRE DE DE RAISINS jelly II RArsrNs -- Like Like Currant Currant jel/y Grape II (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES) JELLIES) using g. (9 (9 oz., using 250 250 g. generous oz, generous (see cup) sugar sugar to g. (18 (18 oz.) to 500 500 g. grape juice. oz.) grapejuice. cup) pnr,rprEMous$ - Citrus GRAPEFRUIT. PAMPLEMOUSSE fruit the the size size of of aa GRAPEFRUIT. - Citrus fruit very big pale yellow yellow in big orange, orange, pale in colour. colour. The The Chinese Chinese eat eat this very this fruit at at the the beginning beginning of of aa meal meal as as an an apéritif, ap6ritif, and and this this fruit custom was was copied copied by by the the Americans Americans when when they they acclimatised acclimatised custom the fruit fruit in in their their country. country. the Cut the the fruit fruit in in half half horizontally horizontally with with aa very very sharp Cut sharp knife knife (a special special knife knife isis used used for for this purpose), make this purpose), make aa circular (a circular incision around around the the central central cone cone and and remove remove il. it. Slide incision Slide the the knife into into each each section section of of the fruit to pulp from to loosen the the pulp from the knife the skin surrounding surrounding il. it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fine fine sugar. sugar. It It can skin can be flavoured with liqueur and and served served on on ice. ice. flavoured

q-fu*.

Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicohs) Chasselas grapes (Fauchon. Phot. Nicolas)

Dessert Dessert grapes. grapes. RArsrNs RAISINS DE DE rABLE TABLE - A A few few varieties vanetIes of of grapes grapes listed listed according according to to their their season: season: earliest earliest first. first.

Preparing I air e) Preparing grapefruit grapefruit (C (Claire)

Angevine is the the earliest earliest variety variety of of all, aH, fruit fruit pale pale yellow, yellow, Angevine is

GRAPPA GRAPPA - Piedmontese marc marc brandy in which a sprig of

flesh flesh juicy juicy and and sweet; sweet; Saint-Jacques, Saint-Jacques, with with transparent transparent yellow yellow

rue rue is infused.

fruit, after; Cardinal fruit, ripens ripens very very soon soon after; Cardinal is is aa red red grape grape with with aa

slightly slightly musky musky flavour; flavour; Chasselas Chasselas is is the the most most popular popular culticultivated vated variety variety and and it it alone alone accounts accounts for for more more than than half half production French (there French production (there are are numerous numerous types types of of Chasselas Chasselas grape) is deep blue blue in in grape);; Admirable; Admirable; Dattier Dattier;; Alphonse Alphonse Lavallie Lavalfée isdeep colour colour and and cultivated cultivated extensively; extensively; Oeillade Oeillade isis aa deep deep blackish blackish violet; de Hambourg Hambourg is is purplish-black purplish-black with with plump plump violet; Muscat Muscat dp oval oval fruit; fruit; Gros Gros Vert, Vert, Servant, Servant, Olivette Olivette blanche, blanche, Muscat Muscat d'Alexandrie aU white white grapes. grapes. d'Alexandrie are are all The The great great dessert dessert grape grape producing producing regions regions of of France France are are Vaucluse, Gard, the the valley valley of of Vaucluse, Bouches-du-Rh6ne, Bouches-du-Rhône, H6rault, Hérault, Gard, the Garonne, and the Moissac region particularly the Garonne, and the Moissac region which which is is particularly famous famous for for its its golden golden Chasselas. Chasselas. For For the the varieties varieties of ofgrapes grapes used used for for making making wine wine (cipages) (cèpages) see see VINE. VINE. Keeprng Keeping grapes. grapes. The The system system used used at at Thomery, Thomery, for for the the Chasselas Chasselas grape, grape, consists consists of of cutting cutting off off the the bunch, bunch, with with aa piece of the the main main stem stem attached, attached, before before itit isis quite qui te ripe, ripe, and and piece of soaking soaking the the thick thick stem stem in in aa bottle bottle half halffilled filled with with water. water. Dried RAISINS sEcs SECS-- Gathered Gathered when when perfectly perfectly ripe, ripe, Dried grapes. grapes. RArsrNs and and dried dried in in the the sun. sun. The The principal principal commercial commercial types types in in France are: France are: Raisins. Raisins. Mainly Mainly from from the the Midi. Midi. Gathered Gathered very very ripe, ripe,

GRASSHOPPER. GRASSHOPPER. SAUTERELLE SAUTERELLE - Orthopterous, Orthopterous, herbivorous herbivorous insect, insect, often often constituting a plague plague to to agriculture. GrassGrasshoppers hoppers are greatly greatly relished relished by by African African natives natives who who eat eat them them in in the the most most diverse diverse forms, fonus, boiled, boiled, roasted, roasted, grilled, grilled, s4lted, saJted, dried and and reduced reduced to to aa paste. paste. Moses Moses permitted permitted the the Hebrews Hebrews to to eat eat four four different different species, species, described described in in Leviticus. Leviticus. GRASS GRASS SNAKE. SNAKE. couLEUvRE COULEUVRE -- Non-poisonous Non-poisonous snake. snake. The The common common grass grass snake snake isis sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in in France France under under the the name name of of anguille anguille des des haies haies (hedge (hedge eel). eel). ItIt is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Eel Eel (q.v.). (q.v.).

GRATER. RÂPE -- Utensil Utensil with with aa rough rough surface, surface, pierced pierced with with GRATER. nApr holes, holes, used used to to reduce reduce to to aa coarse coarse powder powder certain certain vegetables, vegetables, fruits fruits or or other other commodities commodities (cheese, (cheese, nutmeg, nutmeg, almonds, almonds, etc.). etc.). GRATERON GRATERON -- Common Common French French term tenu for for rennet. rennel.

GRATINtenu means means the the thin thin crust crust formed formed on on the the sursurGRATIN - The The term face face of ofcertain certain dishes dishes when when they they are are browned browned in in the the oven oven or or under under the the grill. grill. ItIt isis extended extended to to denote denote certain certain methods metbods of of preparation. preparation. Thus of macaroni macaroni au au gratin, gratin, sole sole au au gratin. gratin. (See (See Thus we we speak speak of

CULINARY CULINARY METHODS.) METHODS.)

434 434

GRENADINS 1

and elegant elegant with with aa are dry dry and Graves are The white wines wines of Graves to are an excellent excellent accompaniment to delicate bouquet. They are south seafood, seafood, shellfish, shellfish, grilled fish, and subtle sauces. In the south more and lighter, lighter, more of the region, the white wines are sweeter and akin to Sauternes wines.

Gratin languedocicn languedocien - Half cook in in oil 4 peeled, peeled, sliced Gratin aubergines, seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper, pepper, and and 12 halved aubergines, seasoned tomatoes. tomatoes. Arrange Arrange them in alternate alternate layers in a seasoned l baking dish. Coyer with a mixture of breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and baking dish. Cover with a mixture ChOPPed garlic garlic and and parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with olive oil. Begin chopped cooking on on the the top top of of the the stove, stove, then then bake bake slowly slowly in the oven oyen cooking is well weil browned. browned. until the the top top is until

1

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I

GRATTONS or or GRATTERONS GRATTERONS -- Names given in certain certain GRATTONS regions of of France, France, especially especially in the the south-west, south-west, to the residue residue regions of the the melted melted fat of pork, goose or turkey. It is is sometimes sometimes of lca lied frittons, and and is is salted salted while still hot, and and eaten cold as as calledfrittons, an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. an must not not be be confused confused with rillettes, which which are Grattons must with rillettes, Grattons by pounding pounding in aa mortar aa mixture mixture of fat and lean prepared by pork which which has has been been slowly pork slowly cooked beforehand. ! Grattons Grattons (speiality (speciality of the Ile A cRArroNs À tre Bourbon)_ Bourbon). GRATTONS of the L'îLE DE DE rl LA nfumou RÉUNION (lm (îLE nounroN) BOURBON) - Take the skin from the l'lt,u of a a young pig, leaving leaving on back of fat. Cut on it 2 cm. (i inch) of fat. back into l0-cm. lO-cm. (a-inch) (4-inch) squares. the fat without touching touching Scorethefatwithout squares. Score itit into the skin skin with with criss-cross criss-cross lines, lines, making making little squares about the 8 mm. mm. (* (1 inch) inch) across. Put the with in aa pan with of skin in the pieces of across. Put 8 sorne melted melted fat. fat. Leave them to for 33 to 44 to cook cook very slowly for Leave them l some hours. When When the the skin is tender raise the and transparent, transparent, raise tender and hours. skin is heat and and cook for aa further 40 pieces of the pieces of until the 40 minutes, minutes, until for further cook heat 1 skin like swell up up like They should should swell become crisp. crisp. They bubble up up and and become skin bubble fritters. spoon pan with from the the pan with aa perforated spoon fritters. Remove Remove them them from or put them table salt. salt. with table dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with thern in in aa dish. or skimmer skimmer and and put This uncovered. be cooked cooked uncovered. This dish dish should always be should always 1

1

Grayling Grayling

resemblfish resemblGRA YLING. OMBRE - Rare freshwater fish Rare freshwater olrsne COMMUN corr{rvrtnqGRAYLING. more ing and more its bigger bigger and by its differs by which itit differs from which ing trout, trout, from fin of of dorsal fin brilliant an enormous enormous dorsal snout, an scales, smaller smaller snout, brilliant scales, bluish-grey coJour. tinged sometimes tinged are silvery, silvery, sometimes Its sides sides are colour. Its with spots. dark spots. with dark pink or purple and flecked with and flecked or purple with pink The of thyme. thyme. flavour of has aa slight slight Bavour and has very delicate delicate and The flesh flesh is is very It (q.v.). prepared like like trout trout (q.v.). It isis prepared

1

GRECQUE grecEte should of Greek Greek should be beof (A LA) la grecque Dishes àd la LA)-- Dishes GRECQfJE (À origin practice this this isis preparation, but in practice but in of preparation, method of origin in in their their method seldom dish that aadish happens that sometimes happens Though itit sometimes case. Though seldom the the case. called Greek of Greek really isis of menu really restaurant menu grecque on on aa restaurant la grecque called àd la origin, given to of to dishes dishes of the name name isis given not the than not more often often than origin, more French French origin. origin. Among grecque are Artichokes àd lala arc Artichokes dishes called called àd laIa grecque Among the the dishes grecque prepared vegetables prepared other vegetables (see ARTICHOKE) and other grecque (see ARTICHOKE) and in in the the same same way. way. GREEN GAGE. REINE-CLAUDE yellowishwith aa yellowishPlum with nsNE-cLAuDE -- Plum GREENGAGE. green n, lightJy fruit of the thefruit side of the side red on on the with red green ski lightly tinted tinted with skin, exposed (See PLUM.) PLUM.) sun. (See to the the sun. exposed to

GRA VEN CHE - Fish nI y in mainly in found mai family found the salmon salmon family of the GRAVENCI{E - Fish of Lake which itit isis with which resembles the the féra It closely Lake Geneva. Geneva. It closely resembles fira with often Theféra has lighter and lighter curved back back and has aa more more curved confusd.Thefdra often confused. coloured coloured scales. scales. The Its the féra. than the gravencfte is much smaller smaller than is usually usually much The gravenche fira.Its flesh less fiavour. flavour. much Jess but has has much delicate but flesh is is fairly fairty firm firm and and delicate Ali used for for may be be used river trout trout may forfdra and and river All recipes recipes suitable suitable forféra gravenche. gravmche. (See (See FÉRA, TROUT.) FERA, TROUT.) GRA VES - Les gravelly sandy and and gravelly name of of the the sandy is the the name Les Graves Graves is GRAVFSterritory the département The hills hills of the the Gironde. Gironde. The dipartement of that lies lies in nthe territory that and yield excellent wines. plateaux of excellent wines. region yield of this this region and plateaux The strip of of occupy aa strip also occupy of Bordeaux Bordeaux also The Graves or Graves Graves of Graves or land, (9 miles) to the parallel to the running parallel wide, running km. (9 miles) wide, land, about about 15 15 km. Gironde and Langon. Langon. Bordeaux and between Bordeaux Gironde between The Their and lively. lively. Their full-bodied and The red red wines Graves are are full-bodied wines of of Graves very and the the of truffies trufres and the aroma aroma of evokes the very delicate delicate bouquet bouquet evokes 1 perfume of the resin of the nearby pine Like Médoc, M6doc, forests. Like perfume of the resin of the nearby pine forests. the wines. has sorne some outstanding outstanding wines. the region region has Apart prunier cru uu Haut-Brion, classified classifiod premier Apart from from Château Chdteau Haut-Brion, in 1953 in 1953 were classified classified in wines were the Graves Graves wines in 1855, 1855, most most of of the (decree follows: (decree of as follows: The classification 1958). The classification isis as l8 October October 1958). of 18

GREENHOUSE, madeof of Buildingmade sERRE - - Building HOTHOUSE. SERRE GREENHOUSE, HOTHOUSE. glass vegetables heat.The The vegetables inartificial artificial heat. plants are raised in glass where are raised where plants or plants glass have thanplants lessflavour flavour than have less under glass cultivated under or fruit fruit cultivated grown grown in air. in the the open openair. GRENACHEItalian g renache isisderived theItalian from the derivedfrom The word grenache GRENACIIE - Theword word TheGrenache Grenache 'large seeds'. seeds'. The granaccio which means'large which means word granaccio grape du theCôtes Cdtesdu stock of ofthe thevine vinestock of the grape accounts for much much of accounts for Rhône Mediterranean Franceand andthe theMediterranean south of ofFrance ofthe thesouth Rh6ne wines winesof basin. sweetwines. wines. unfortified sweet straight,unfortified make straight, to make usedto basin. ItIt isis used The areall allGrenache Grenache Roussillon are ofRoussillon appellations of The best-known best-known appellations wines. Maury, Banyuls,Maury, theseare areBanyuls, ofthese importantof The most most important wines. The Côtes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes. Cdtes-d'Agly, Rivesaltes.

1

White (W\ White (W) Châteaux Communes or (R\ or Red Red (R) Chdteaux Communes Bouscaut Cadaujac W W and and RR Cadaujac Bouscaut Carbonnieux Léognan W and RR W and L6ognan Carbonnieux Chevalier (Domaine de) W W and and RR L6ognan Chevalier (Domaine de) Léognan Villenave-d'Ornon Couhins W Villenaved'Ornon W Couhins Fieuzal Léognan RR L6ognan Fieuzal Haut-Bailly Léognan RR L6ognan Haut-Bailly RR 1 La Mission-Haut-Brion Talence La Mission-Haut-Brion Talence Talence RR La Tour-Haut-Brion Talence Tour-Haut-Brion La Martillac La W W and and RR Martillac Tour-Martillac La Tour-Martillac Laville-Haut-Brion W W Talence Laville-Haut-Brion Talence Malartic-Lagravière Léognan W Wand andRR L.6ognan Malartic-Lagravidre Olivier Léognan W andRR Wand L6ognan Olivier Pape-Clément Pessac RR Pessac Pape-Cl6ment Smith-Haut-Lafite Martillac RR Martillac

GRENADIER ofthe the Francebecause becauseof namedininFrance thus named Fish thus GRENADIER -- Fish shape GrenaFrenchGrenaofaaFrench reminiscent of head,which whichisisreminiscént its head, ofits shape of dier's an 40 (16inches) and long,and inches)long, 40cm. cm.(16 moreththan nevermore cap.ItIt isisnever dier's cap. its poachod,with halfwithhalfserved poached, delicate. ItIt isisserved white flesh fleshisisdelicate. its white melted (see BUTTER,Compound BUTTER,Compound butter(see d'h6tel butter Maite d'hôtel melted Maitre butters); sauces;àdla/a (hotororcold) varioussauces; withvarious cold)with boiled(hot butters\;boiled boulangère, rings. potatoesand andonion onionrings. withsliced sliced potatoes boulangire, with GRENADINScut (noixdedeveau) veau)cut of veal(noix slicesoffiIlet of filletofveal Smallslices GRENN)INS- Small ininthe areinterlarded interlarded whichare rectangles which trianglesororrectangles oftriangles theshape shapeof with andbraised. braised. lardingbacon baconand bestlarding with best Braised DEVEAU vEAUBRAISÉS rnusfs- grenadins. GRENADINS cRENADINS DE vealgrenadins. Braiscdveal Using thickescalopes. escalopes. narrowthick cutnarrow of veal,cut under-fillet ofveal, filletor orunder-fillet Usingfillet Flatten thin themwith withthin studthem gently, trim them,and andstud trimthem, Flattenthem themgently, strips pork. saltpork. baconororsalt oflarding lardingbacon stripsof

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Smith-Haut-Lafite

435 435 1

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GRESILLER GRÉSILLER

Above : Grilling pan for (Larousse) Gilling pan for meat meat (Larousse) Above: Below: EJectric (Nrcolas) Electic toaster toaster (Nicolas) Below:

(l"a Carpe. Grills (La Carpe. Phot. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Grills

Brown in in butter, (or bacon butter, fresh fresh crackling crackling (or bacon rind), Brown rind), aa mediumsized onion, onion, aa carrot carrot cut cut into into thin slices, and and the the trimmings trimmings sized thin slices, of the the veal. grenadins fiat Lay the veal. Lay the grenadins pan and flat in the pan and brown of in the brown them lightly. Coyer, gently on Cover, and and cook cook gently on aa low low flame for 15 15 lightly. ftame for minutes. minutes. ({ pint, Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. (t scant cup) cup) white white wine. Moisten pint, scant wine. Boil Boil down the almost completely, completely, and the juices juices almost and add add aa little little water. water. Bring Bring to the again, coyer, cover, and slow oven the boil boil again, and bake bake in in aa slow oyen for for about 45 minutes, from time 45 minutes, basting basting from time to to time. time. grenadins and Drain the the grenadins and lay Strain the Drain lay them them on on a a dish. dish. Strain the juices and pour juices and pour aa few few tablespoons tablespoons over over the the grenadins. grenadins. Brown Brown in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently. frequently. Dilute Dilute the the cooking cooking juices juices in in the stock or consomm6. Scrape sides the pan pan with with clear clear veal veal stock or consommé. Scrape the the sides pan of stir the Strain of the the pan and and stir the fragments fragments into into the the gravy. gravy. Strain through sieve. Remove through aa fine fine sieve. Remove fat fat and and boil boil down down if if necessary. necessary. Pour Pour over over the the grenadins. grenadins. Serve Serve braised braised veal veal grenadins grenadins with with all ail the the garnishes garnishes suitable suitable for veal or for veal veal chops, chops, escalopes, escalopes, fillet fiUet of of veal or fricandeaux fricandeaux (q.v.). (q.v.). Grenadins Grenadins are, are, in in fact, fact, smally'icandeaux. smallfricandeaux. Among Among the the garnishes garnishes best best suited suited to to this this dish dish are are bouquebouquetidre, glazed carrots, tière, bourgeoise, bourgeoise, glazed carrots, braised braised celery, celery, braised braised jardinlire, endive, endive, chicory, chicory, spinach,/ermiire, spinach,fermière, jardinière, braised braised lettuce, lettuce, macidoine, macédoine, nivernaise, nivernaise, green green peas, peas, printaniire, printanière, pur6e purée of of fresh fresh or or dried dried vegetables, vegetables, quartered quartered artichokes, artichokes, or or artichoke artichoke hearts. hearts. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Poultry Poultry grenadins. grenadins. cRENADTNS GRENADINS DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- The The term term grenadin grenadin includes includes slices slices of of white white meat meat of of large large poultry, poultry, especially especially turkey. turkey. This This dish dish is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as Braised Braised veal veal grenadins. grenadins.

GRIDIRON, GRILL. GRIr,I.. GRIL cRrL -- Kitchen Kitchen implement implement with a long GRIDIRON, history. It It is a contemporary contemporary of of the spit. The cooking cooking ofmeat of meat history. on aa spit is is far far older than preparation of foodstuffs in than the preparation on earthenware or bronze containers. gridiron was one one of of the first implements used The metal gridiron by our our remote ancestors ancestors for cooking cooking meat. meat. GRIGNON - Piece Piece of of dry dry bread, GRIGNON bread, baked baked very very hard, which which can (grignoter). The name be be nibbled (grignoter). na me grignon is also given to the end crust of of aa long or round loaf. It is also called quignon. quignon.

GRILLARDIN who, given by by the French to the chef chefwho, GRll-LARDIN - Name given in in large restaurants, is concerned entirely with the grilling grilling (U.S. of various various types of of food. (U.S. broiling) broiling) of

GRILLETES GRll-LETES - Old name name for for thin thin slices slices of of fresh fresh pork pork fried in butter butter or or fat.

GRrILING GRll-LING (U.S. (U.S. BROILING). BROll-ING). GRTLLADE GRILLADE - Method Method of cooking food by putting putting it it on a gridiron gridiron over over embers, or, in modern modern cookers, under under a grill. grill. In In former former times grilling grilling was was done done on an open wood or charcoal charcoal fire. Nowadays, Nowadays, food food is is grilled grilled by by gas gas or or electricity. electricity. GRILSE. GRILSE. sAUMoNEAU SAUMONEAU -- Name Name for a young young salmon that that has has been been only only once once to to sea. sea. Before Before that that the the salmon salmon isis called called aa parn. parn. All Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for salmon (q.v.) (q.v.) are are applicable applicable to to the the young young fish. fish.

GRIMOD GRIMOD DE DE LA LA REYNIDREREYNIÈRE - Famous Famous gastronome, gastronome, born born in in Paris Paris in in 1758, 1758, died in in 1838. 1838. His His father, father, who who was was Farmer Farmer General, General, was was himself himself the the son son of of aa pork pork butcher. butcher. Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre, Reynière, barrister-at-law, barrister-at-Iaw, did did not not devote devote much much time time to to his his profession. profession. He He preferred preferred sessions sessions at at the the table to sessions sessions in in the the Palace Palace of of Justice. Justice. The The first first edition edition of of table to his his Manuel Manuel des des Amphityons Amphitryons came came out out in in 1808, 1808, and and the the series series Almanacs Almanacs des des Gourmands Gourmands were were published published between between 1803 1803 and and

GRESILLER GRÉSILLER -- To To shrink shrink or or shrivel shrivel by by heating. heating. The The real real meaning meaning of of the the word word gresiller grésiller isis to to patter. patter. ItIt isis applied applied also also to to foodstuffs foodstuffs which which in in cooking cooking make make aa pattering patte ring sound sound like like falling falling hail. hail.

GRIBICI{E GRffiICHE -- Cold Cold sauce sauce served served with with cold cold fish. fish. ItIt is is an an oilv oily

1812. 1812. These These books books have have since since been been republished republished several several times times and and form form an an integral integral part part of of every every gastronome's gastronome's library. library. 'Grimod 'Grimod de de la la Reynidre,' Reynière,' says says Car6me, Carême, 'was 'was familiar familiar with with the the ancien ancien rigime, régime, and and lived lived through through the the horrors horrors of of the the Revolution. Revolution. After After the the reign reign of of terror, terror, he he considered considered itit both both necessary as necessary and and wise wise to to write write his his Manuel Manueldes desAmphitryons, Amphitryons, so soas

sauce sauce made made of ofthe the yolks yolks of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, oil oil and and vinegai, vinegar, seasoned seasoned with with mustard. mustard. To To this this mixture mixture add add capers, cap ers, chopped chopped

gherkins, gherkins, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon, tarragon, and and whites whites of of hardhardboiled boiled eggs eggs cut cut into into short short matchsticks. matchsticks. (See (See SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces.) sauces.) 436 436

GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL same This bird should not be confused confused with that from the same is region called ganga-cata, Pyrenées, which is ganga-ca ta, or gelinotte des Pyrenies, equally equally good to eat, but smaller in size. proAll Ali these these birds have very good flesh. But they have a pronounced nounced pine pi ne flavour, flavour, the leg leg meat meat in particular, particular, so normally the legs are not served. species, including America there In ln North North America there are are many many species, s har p - t ail e d ous e, sharp-tailed s age gr b lue gr ous e, sage rufe d gr ouse (partridge), ruffedgrouse (partridge), blue grouse, grouse, grouse grouse and prairie prairie chicken. chicken. It isis U.S.A. and in U prize'd in England and This game is much rnuch prized .S.A. It (hazel gelinotte (hazel as gelinotte known as where itit is France, where scarcer scarcer in in France, is known quality than the of much poorer quality grouse or hazel hen), a bird of American grouse. British or American in the be cooked in grouse is roasted but but may be is best best roasted Young grouse same way as hazel grouse (q.v.). (Roman cookery). MARINE rtrn.ls MARINÉ grouse (Roman cookery). TÉTRAS Marinated grouse Marinated After having wine. After white wine. good marinade using white marinade using 'Make aa good 'Make marinate te it for 3 or 4 days. skinned and cleaned out the bird, marina it, adding aa good mirepoix fat. Braise Braise it, in bacon fat. 'Bard it in garni (q.v.) lightly cooked in butter, aa bouquet garni of vegetables Iightly (q. v.) of and the marinade. (q.v.), veal stock and all fat fat from remove liquid, rem in its its cooking cooking liquid, 'Allow to cool cool in 'Aliow ove ail can be this to c1arify clarify it, then boil it down to the point where it can the sliced mould. When it isis turned out, put the put in aa border mould. the grouse in the middle. meat of the of B. Farrep.) toast.'(Recipe 'Serve with slices of buttered toast.' (Recipe ofB.

to instruct instruct the the new new rich rich in the the conventions conventions and proprieties proprieties which they they must must observe. observe. which 'His Almanac Almanac des des Gourmands Gourmands is full of flashes of gastronomy he had had some sorne good good influence on the norny and and wit. wit. Doubtless, Doubtless, he science of cookery, but he played no part in the rapid proproscience ofcookery, gress gress which which modern modern cookery cookery has has made made since the renaissance renaissance of the the art.' art.' of de la Reynidre Reynière set set up a a 'jury of tasters', tasters', who who Grimod de of academic academic certificate certificate called ldgitimation légitimation to awarded a kind of various dishes. various

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Grimod Grimod de la Reynière Reynidre ((1758-1838) 1758-1838)

after Fribourg after canton of Fribourg the Swiss Swiss canton in the GRUYÈRE Valley in GRUYDRE -- Valley is named. (See CHEESE.) which which Gruyère Gruydre cheese is

This jury of tasters intervals at the home of the met at at intervals at the tasters met lived in in the gastronome, who There, in the Champs-Elysées. Champs-Elys6es. There, who lived solemn fashion, they tasted tasted the dishes sent to Grimod de la Reynière by by tradesmen who publicity by by making who sought sought publicity Reyniire known known to their customers customers thejudgement, the judgement, always favourable, pronounced by this gastronomic Areopagus. The jury of tasters, give up up its its sittings however, had had to to give tasters, however, because sorne de some of of its judgements aroused protest. Grimod de la en accused even accused of interested la Reynière interested partiality. Reyniire was ev

comsold commollusc sold Species of of mollusc GRYPHAEA. cnvpsfu -- Species GRYPHAEA. GRYPHÉE oysters. Portuguese oysters. the name of Portuguese mercially under the guava tree, which bush which tree, aa bush the guava Fruit of of the GUA VA. GOYAVE coyAVE -- Fruit GUAVA. Asia. and Asia. of America and grows in grows in the the tropical regions of pear shaped, shaped, some are are pear ofguava, There guava, sorne several species of There are are several fig. like aa fig. type is is shaped shaped like One type others orange shaped. One others orange It isis usually usually insipid. It guava is pulp of is somewhat somewhat insipid. The the guava The pulp of the jelly or jam, jelly paste. or paste. into jam, made into or made eaten stewed or raw, but can can be stewed eaten raw,

GRIND. term is is used GRII\D. ÉGRUGER 6cnucm. -- To reduce to powder. This tenn especially mill. especially of sea-salt ground in aa mortar or mil!.

sandybottom on the the sandy found on Smallfish GUDGEON. fish found bottom couJoN-- Small GLJDGEON. GOUJON shoals' live in in shoals. Europe. Gudgeon Gudgeon live of rivers of of Europe. and rivers the lakes lakes and of the There There are are various kinds. gudgeon, is found is the the one one found The the common common gudgeon, parent species, The parent species, the kind isis Another kind France. Another rivers of of France. in in the the rivers numbers in in large large numbers One the Danube. Danube. One in the another in found and another the Somme, Somme, and found in in the rivers, (pope), isis found French rivers, all French gremille (pope), found in in almost almost ail species, species, gremille called sometimes called Moselle, and and isis sometimes especially the Moselle, and the Seine and especially the Seine gouionnidre. perche goujonnière. goujonniire or in or perche in French, French, goujonnière usually gudgeon isis very very delicate. delicate. ItIt isis usually The The flesh flesh of of the the gudgeon eaten smelt. the smelt. like the eaten fried, fried, like with Coat with EN MANCHON MANcHoN -- Coat Gudgeon couJoN EN en manchon. manchon. GOUJON Gudgeon en gudgeon,leaving the egg leaving the of the the gudgeon, the bodies bodies of and breadcrumbs egg and breadcrumbs the as aa These are are used used as fry. These heads Deep fry. uncoated. Deep heads and tails uncoated. and tails sprinkled fish can can be be sprinkled small fish gamish Other small garnish for fish. Other for braised braised fish. with frying. before frying. with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs before

GRISSINI bread varying varying in in sticks of hard-baked bread GRISSIM -- Long sticks length from 25 cm. (10 to 30 30 inches). 25 to 75 75 cm. Grissini, at large large bakeries bakeries.. origin, can can be bought at Grissini, of Italian origin, GROG -- Drink containing spirit, lemon, lemon, rum or or sorne some other other spirit, containing rum sugar and and hot water. Old given to to the the English English admirai admiral Old Grog the nickname given Grog was was the Vernon the grogram coat he used used to to wear. wear. coat he Vernon because because of ofthe ln in their ration of their ration In 1740 he to put water in of his men to he ordered ordered his rum, was invented. 'grog'was invented. rum, and called 'grog' and thus thus aa new beverage called GROS-BLANQUET greenishpear with Variety of of pear with aa greenishGRO$BLANQUET -- Variety yellow skin. gritty in in texture. texture. skin. It It isis quite sweet, sweet, but but rather rather gritty GROSSETÊTE BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE GROSSETETE -_ See SEC RESTAURANTS DAYS. DAYS. GROUSE. are several several Game bird bird of of which which there there are GROUSE. TÉTRAS rfrus -- Game varieties. varieties. The the capercaillie, very superb creature, creature, with with very The largest largest isisthe capercaillie, aa superb delicate northern in countries countries of of northern delicate flesh. flesh. Quite common in Quite common Europe, prepared like pheaIt isis prepared like pheaEurope, itit is found in in France. France. It is rarely rarely found sant grouse. sant or or ordinary ordinary grouse. The grouse, aa bird pheasant and and The black the size size of of the the pheasant black grouse, bird about about the cooked grouse or red grouse way, the the British British red or Scotch Scotch cooked in in the the same same way, grouse, gelinotte (hazel (hazel grouse grouse or grouse, the hazel hen), hen), and and the French Frenchgelinotte or hazel the ganga or pin-tailed grouse grouse which found in in the the south south of the ganga which isis found of or pin-tailed France The last to the the same same family. family. The last France and and Aigeria, Algeria, ail all belong belong to bird, good the size size of of aa good bird, whose whose flesh flesh isis extremely extremely delicate, delicate, isis the partridge. prepared in partridge. It in spit-roasted but but may may be be prepared It isis usually usually spit-roasted any gelinotte. for the any way way suitable suitable for the gelinotte.

GUERBIGNY CHEESE. SCC CHEESE. GUERBIGNY -_ See GUÉRET See CHEESE. CHEESE. CUENNT -_ See parts of the France to to the given in of France GUIGNETTE in sorne some parts Name given GUIGNETTE -- Name sand family. piper, aa bird the snipe snipe family. bird of of the sand piper, In (q.v.) are for this this bird. bird. In Ali suitable for are suitable for snipe snipe (q.v.) All recipes recipes for guignette isis applied to aa applied to sorne name guignette parts of the name France the of France some parts molhlsc, coastal waters. waters. French coastal found inin French littorine, found mollrlsc, the the littorine, pTNTADE, PINTADEAU pINTADEAU -- Genus of bird of GUINEA GUINEA FOWL. Genus of of bird FOWL. PINTADE, the several species. species. ItIt isis aa which includes includes several the Gallinaceae Gallinaceae family family which native lied itit called Romans, who whoca known to to the the Romans, native of of Africa Africa and and was was known (Carthage) hen. Numidian hen. The The flesh of flesh of Numidian hen hen or or Carthaginian Carthaginian (Carthage) pheasant. young young guinea guinea fowl similar to to that that of of pheasant. fowl isis delicate delicate and and similar

437 437

GUINEA FOWL GUINEAFOWL

Guinea Guinea fowl fowl dà lala lanzuedocienne(Robert languedocienne (Robert Carrier\ Carrier)

438

GUYENNE GUYENNE renders itit useful pharmaceutics and useful in in pharmaceutics prerenders andcookery cookery for for the theprejujube, paration of of mucilages. mucilages. Gurn Gum arabic arabic isis the the basis paration basisof of jujube, marshmallow and paste. and liquorice liquorice paste. marshmallow gum. SIROP (18oz.) Syrup gum. slRop DE gum DE GOMME GoMME - - Crush Syrup Crush 500 500 g.g. (18 oz.)gum (scant pint, arabic pint, 2i for 24 and soak ara bic and soak for 24 hours hours in in1I litre litre (scant 2f cups) cups) cold water. Add to water. Add cold kg. (41 lb., 9 cups) to aasyrup madewith with22kg.(41b.,9 syrup made cups) (lf pints, sugar and pints, generous generous quart) quart) water and 1I litre litre (li sugar water boiled boiledtoto (220F.). Boil 105'C. (220°F.). 105°C. when Boil the the mixture, mixture, skim, skim, and and filter filter itit when quite cool. cool. Store quite Store in in bottles. bottles.

guinea fowl The guinea fowl often often figures figures on on the the menu menu of of banquets banquets and and The pheasant', aa name wedding receptions receptions as 'Bohemian pheasant', as 'Bohemian name which which isis wedding somewhat exaggerated. exaggerated. somewhat poults, which Guinea poults, which are are found found in in the the markets markets of of France France Guinea towards the the end prepared of July, July, are are excellent. excellent. They They can end of can be be prepared towards pheasant or partridges. in any any way way suitable suitable for for pheasant or partridges. in grown guinea guinea fowls prepared (hot (hot or Fully grown fowls are are prepared or cold) cold) in in any any Fully way suitable suitable for for chicken. chicken. way Guinea fowlliver. fowl liver. FOIE rorc DE oE PINTADES ITNTADEs -- Ali All recipes recipes for for chicken chicken Guinea guinea fowl livers are are sui suitable for guinea fowl livers. livers. These These are used are also also used livers table for as an an ingredient in in stuffings. stuffings. as

GLJRNEAU -- French French name GURNEAU name for for aa species gurnet. ItIt isis species of of gurnet. found in in the Mediterranean, in found the Mediterranean, in British British coastal coastal waters waters and and in in the Baltic. the Baltic. gurnet (q.v.) (q.v.) are All recipes recipes for Ail for gurnet are suitable suitable for for this this fish. fish.

GURNET. cRoNDIN -- This This European European fish GURMT. GRONDIN fish isis often often sold soldinin quite France France as as red red mullet, erroneously, since since though though quite mullet, but but erroneously, delicate in flavour, flavour, itit cannot cannot be be compared compared with with the the true true red red delicate in mullet. mullet. (grunter) in The gurnet isis called grandin (grunter) The gurnet in French French because called grondin because of of the grunting sound the grunting sound itit isis said said to to make make when when itit cornes comes out out of of the the water. quite different It isis quite water. It different in in shape shape from from the the true true red red mullet. mullet. There gurnet. Among There are are various various types types of of gurnet. Among those those to to be be found gurnet, whose whose scales found in in France France are red gurnet, scales are beautiare the the red are aa beautifuI gurnet, red ful clear clear red red or rose colour; the cuckoo red in in colour; or rose colour; the colour; cuckoo gurnet, the the trigle trigle lyre, lyre, whose whose back back isis aa beautiful beautiful clear clear red red with with silvery grey gurnet, gurnet, silvery and and rose-coloured rose-coloured belly belly and and sides; sides; the the grey grey grey with on back flanks; the with whitish whitish spots spots on back and and flanks; the shining shining gurnet, gurnet, also gurnet, which long-finned gurnet, called the largest also called the long-finned which isis the the largest of (24 inches) of the the species species -- itit can as much much as as 60 60 cm. cm. (24 in inches) in can be be as length yellowish pink pink along pinkish length -- coloured coloured yellowish along the the back, back, pinkish white gurnet, when The shining white on shining gurnet, when its its fins fins are are on the the belly. belly. The outspread, outspread, has has the delicately the appearance appearance of of aa butterfly, butterfly, with with delicately tinted 'wings' ranging purple. from blue tinted 'wings' ranging from blue to to deep deep purple. Gurnet quite good good to Its flesh is quite to eat. eat. Its flesh isis white white and Gurnet is and fiaky. flaky. Ali (see MULLET) All recipes recipes for for red red mullet mullet (see MULLET) are are suitable suitable for for gurnet, gurnet, which grilled or which can can be be fried, fried, grilled cooked in in butter or cooked butter àri la/a meunière (q.v.). They meuniire (q.v.). They can be stewed stewed or can be or cooked cooked in in white white wine, wine, and (q.v.). and they they are are used used in rn bouillabaisse bouillabal'sse (q.v.).

Guinea fowl fowl Guinea

GUINEA GUINEA PIG. COCHON D'rNDE -- Domestic rodent of cocsoN P'INDE of South South American origin. Its flesh is American is edible, edible, but it is is chiefly used used for for laboratory experiments.

GUYENNE province has GUYENNE -- This This vast vast province has been been divided divided into into the the départements dipartemenls of of the Gironde, Gironde, Dordogne, Dordogne, Lot, Lot, Aveyron, Aveyron, LotLotet-Garonne et-Garonne and and Tarn-et-Garonne. Tarn-et-Garonne. The The cuisine cuisine of of this this region region isis dominated dominated by by the the truffies truffies of 6f Périgord P6rigord and garlic which and Lot, Lot, and and garlic which isis used used liberally liberally in in most most of of the the local local dishes. dishes. The products of The products of the the region region include include the the celebrated Roquecelebrated Roquefort fort cheese; cheese; the the truffies of of Périgord geese and P6rigord and and Lot; Lot; the the geese and duck duck livers livers which potted or which are are potted pdtis; the made into rnto pâtés; or made the confit confit d'oie d'oie of Montauban; the of Montauban; the lamb lamb of of Pauillac; Pauillac; and and ail all the the succulent partridge, woodcock succulent partridge, pdtis made and thrush woodcock and thrush pâtés made almost almost everywhere everywhere here, here, but especially in but especially in the the little little town town of of Lomogne, aa centre centre of of delicious delicious cooking. cooking. Culinary Ctlinary specialities speialities -- Among Among the the special special local local dishes dishes of of Guyenne those deserving deserving of of special special mention mention are are estouffat estouffat of of haricot haricot beans; beans; lampreys lampreys àd la la bordelaise; bordelaise; tripe tripe with with saffron; saffron; tripe àd la la ruthénoise; ruthinoise; leg leg of of lamb lamb àd la pudding la ficelle; white pudding ficelle; white quercinois; quercinois; stuffed chicken; potted truffles; chicken; polted trffies; cèpes cdpes àd la la bordebordelaise; girondin; Agen prunes; hearth-cake. Iaise; millas girondin; Agen prunes; hearth-cake. The broths pots-au-feu include garbure Gasconne broths and and pots-au-feu include the the garbure Gasconne and, and, no less less delectable, delectable, the the chaudeau chaudeau and and the the tomato tomato tourin. tourin. Most famous famous of the fish of the fish dishes dishes of of Guyenne Guyenne are are matelotes matelotes of of lampreys lampreys and eels and and trout trout àd la and eels la meunière. meuniire. Exclusive Exclusive to to this this fashioned region region are are oyster sausages; sausages; bunting bunting en en caisses; caisses; old oldfashioned galimaufry; foie-gras jugged mountain grapes; jugged with grapes; mountain hare; hare; foie-gras with tripe tripe àd la gasconnade; stuffed la landaise; landaise; leg leg of of lamb lamb àd la la gasconnade; stuffed chicken; alicuit ose hearts; goose or alicuit of of goose or chicken; goose chicken; stuffed stuffed go hearts; roast roast wood wood pigeon; woodcock woodcock salmi, salmi, and, and, the the dish dish extolled extolled by by Marcel Prévost, Pr6vost, the the Christmas Christmas estouffat. estouffat.

GUINGLJET -- French expression GUINGUET expression used to describe mediocre, mediocre, rather acid acid wine of 10w low alcoholic content.

GUINGUETTE GUINGUETTE -- Name Name given to a French suburban suburban place of of refreshment with with music music and and dancing. dancing. Sorne Some etymologists believe that name is believe that this name guinguet, aa type is derived derived from from guinguet, type of of grape cultivated cultivated in the Paris suburbs. suburbs. A rather sour wine was made from from these these grapes grapes and made and this this was was mainly mainly drunk drunk in in taverns on the outskirts of of Paris. MOUETTE -- Sea-bird whose flesh is GULL. MouErrE is leathery with with an

unpleasant taste, but whose eggs are edible.

GUL y AS -- See GOULASCH. GULYAS GOULASCH. GOMME - Term GUM. coMME Term applied to aa number of diverse diverse subcement from stances which flow either naturally or by indu inducement stems of of certain plants. When When mixed mixed with the stems with water these these subhave adhesive adhesive properties. The stances have The stems stems of the the plants exude gum gurn when they are punctured by insects or when inexude cisions are made in them. of these these gums, gums, gum tragacanth, One of tragacanth,isis used used in cookery, and and the preparation preparation of of medicinal pas tes and in the manualso in the pastes

facture of syrup gum. is said that that some sorne resinous resinous gums were were used used as ItIt is as condiments by the Romans. GOMME ARABTeUE ARABIQUE - Product of secretion Gum arabic. coMME secretion of various species of acacia acacia trees. trees. It is found found in in the the form form of It is yellowish or or reddish reddish fragments, soluble soluble in in water, water, contact contact with yellowish whichgives them a aviscous consistency. This gives them which viscous consistency. This property 439 439

GYMNE,TRE GYMNÈTRE Fillets of sole.

:nnes

wlth

sausages

Lrmprey, cevlar€, Etts In r, Preserved

$llellX:Hsz

fuWoodcock ciriopei, Fillets of harc.

lL,ffi ,eli2ttdetoise,.\t\r\r

Hara d

h

Truftfes and morels d la cftmet Rognonode, Thrurh cutlcts

rqotc

Jjriti&."d# $'orrur-u t Es!, I;'ru'S,','"ti:$ 1t'J<-'lt'ims i--1 Veat,prth-crufiis .-: :-i TARN J..ET.)GARi! (,: /y'Yeketables

Fricassée parslèy. Fricass6e of riith parsliy. oI eel With Manchons of beef wlth with cèpes cdpcs l,llonchons

AVEYRON r'l

Solm,s of thrush

"..Thrush

DAt':

^

.

Calfs liver bardelalse. Lardeloise, Salmis Sofmis of Caff's Ilver duck. c0pcs and lamprey duck, Preserved Pre.served cèpes

Trufie omelette I young rabbrt rrth l"tb.l,__.-

1

r. __

l.

Gastronomic map of Guyenne Gastronomie

fresh tastes rather like fresh GYMNÈTRE GYMNDTRE -- Species of fish which tastes cod. gymnitre faux, which is found in the Mediterranean, is found Mediterranean, T\e gymnètrefaux, The flat, silver silver in colour with red is about 45 cm. (18 inches) long, fiat, fins. suitable for this fish. Ali All recipes for cod (q.v.) are suitable

Among Among the sweets of the district are are tourtisseaux. tourtisseaux, cruchade gasconne pasti. The feuillantines feuillantines of gasconne and lu pasti. of Gers Gers and and the and lou gArcan à gâteau forgotten. d la broche must not be forgotten. red the excellent excellent red We end this list with a brief reference to the UX) and above and white wines of of the district (see BORDEA BORDEAUX) ail Armagnac (see GASCONY). all to the eau-de-vie of Armagnac

440 440 Game: boar's head(Le Doyen. Phol. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) boar's he Game: ad (Le Doyen.

t '

'" "

Ftr!

Baked haddock haddock ài l'irlandaise. l'irlandaise. AIGREFIN ATcREFTN AU AU FOUR ForJR ÀA Baked haddock with Stuffaa haddock Truss in with suet. suet. Truss in an an S-shape S-shape - Stuff and make make light light incisions incisions on on the the sides. Put in in aa buttered and sides. Put buttered pan, season pepper, and season with salt and with salt and pepper, and moisten baking pan, moisten with with (* pint, pint, ~J cup) l+ dl. dl. (t paper cup) Madeira. Madeira. Cover Cover with with aa buttered buttered paper H and bake bake in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently. Untie and Untie the the fish, fish, juices. arrange on hot dish on aa hot dish and pan juices. and sprinkle sprinkle with with the the pan arrange (s*, SAUCE). Serve with with Oyster Oyster sauce sauce or or Shrimp Shrimp sauce sauce (see Serve SAUCE). Curried smoked smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADD@K ÀA L'INDIENNE r'lNorsNNE -- Bone, Curried Bone, skin and and dice dice the the fish. fish. Cook Cook chopped chopped onion skin onion in in butter butter and and add add the haddock. haddock. Cook Cook for for 55 minutes. minutes. Add Add aa fairly fairly thin the thn Curry Curry (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cover, Cover, and and simmer simmer for for 10 sauce l0 minutes. minutes. (see RICE). Serve with with Rice àd l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Serve Gritled smoked smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADDocK GRILLÉ Grilled GRTLL6 -- Brush Brush the the fish with oil oil or or melted melted butter and and cook grill. fish cook slowly slowly under under the the grill. Serve with potatoes, or with melted melted butter butter and and boiled Serve boiled potatoes, or with with Maitre d'hôtel (see BUTTER, d'h6tel butter (see Maître butters). BUfiER, Compound Compoundbutters). pApRrKA paprika. HADDOCK Smoked haddock haddock with with paprika. HADDocK AU AU PAPRIKA Smoked Proceed as as for for Curried Curried haddock, haddock, substituting substituting Hungarian Proceed for curry curry sauce. sauce. sauce (see SAUCE) for pocnE - Simmer smoked haddock. haddock. HADDOCK HADDocK pocHÉ Poached smoked the - Simmer the fish in in slightly slightlv salted salted boiling water, water, without fish without allowing allowing itit to to to JO l0 minutes, according according to boil, for 66 to to its its size. size. Haddock Haddock can can Serve with melted also be poached in milk. Serve melted butter and and boiled potatoes. potatoes.

HADDOCK. ÉGLEFIN, 6cr.nrrN, AIGLEFIN, ArcLEFrN, AIGREFIN ATcREFTN -- Sea-fish Sea-fish of of the the HADDOCK. family, but cod family, but smaller smaller than than the the true true cod. cod. This This fish fish is is also also cod (black cod), known in France France as as égrefin, dgrefin, morue morue noire noire (black cod), morue morue known Saint-Pierre and and in Newfoundland Newfoundland as as âne 6ne or or ânon. dnon. Saint-Pierre Fresh haddock haddock is is white white and and delicate. delicate. Ali All recipes for for cod cod Fresh (q.v.) are suitable for for fresh haddock. (q.v.)

L'IRLANDATS L'IRLANDAISE

Smoked haddock haddock Smoked

Smoked haddock haddock is popular in very popular in England England and and the Smoked is very U.S.A. soon as as it it is fish is is split lengthwise, lengthwise, U .S.A. As As soon is caught, the fish lightly salt, hung by the the tail, tail, and and left left to rubbed over with salt, lightly rubbed smoke for for 24 Smoked haddock keeps fresh fresh for smoke 24 hours. ho urs. Smoked haddock keeps several days. Cod and haddock, when they they are freslq fresh, lend themselves to a a great great number number of culinary treatments and suitable recipes

(Scottish cookery) cookery) -- Haggis may be regarded HAGGIS (Scottish regarded as as the the national dish dish of of Scotland. Scotland. When national When this this dish dish isis served served at at certain large banquets in Scotland, itit is is accompanied accompanied by an ofpipers. escort of pipers. given by is the recipe given Here is the recipe by Alfred Alfred Suzanne in in rus his book book la Cuisine anglaise. la 'To make haggis, take 'To make aa haggis, take aa sheep's sheep's stomach, stomach, cJean clean thoroughly and and turn inside out. 'Take the heart, liver and lungs of the sheep. Boil ail all these for 30 minutes in salt water. Take out the the offal and and mince it very finely, except for part of the liver which must be allowed very to get quite cold so that it can be grated. 'Spread the mince on a table and season with salt, pepper, pepper, nutmeg, cayenne pepper pepper and chopped onion. Add the grated liver, liver, a handful handful of of oatmeal oatmeal and 500 g. (18 oz., o2.,44 cups) chopped beef beef suet. Now Now fill the stomach mixture, aa little stomach with the mixture, little more than half haLf full, leaving plenty of space at the top ta to prevent it from bursting bursting during during cooking. Add a glassful glassful of good gravy. Prick the haggis here and there with aa large needle and and sew sew up the opening. Place in a large pan with plenty plenty ofwater of water and boil for 3 hours. 'It 'It sometimes happens happens that that the the bladder bladder bursts bursts during

will EEL, WHITING, WHITING, under BASS, BASS, BRILL, BRILL, EEL, will be be found found under TUNNY, TUNNY, TURBOT, TURBOT.

Baked Baked haddock haddock

MI 441 Game: Game : wild wild duck(k duck (Le Doyen. Doyen. Phot. Phol . Nicolas)

HAKE HAKE cooking cooking and and spills out its contents. To avoid this, wrap the haggis haggis in in a napkin, napkin, as as though it it were a a galantine, before putting putting it into into boiling boiling water.' Haggis Haggis is is normally nonnally served served wrapped wrapped in a a well-starched napkin traditional drink drink that goes with with it. napkin and and whisky whisky is the traditional HAKE HAKE - Sea-fish Sea-fish called merlmt merlan (whiting) in Provence, colin (cod) on some sorne (cod) in in Paris Paris and saumon saumon blanc (whrte (white salmon) on French French menus. menus. Its Its flesh fiesh is tender, tender, white, flaky fiaky and easy to digest. is called called merluche merluche (stockfish). (stock.fish). digest. When When dried, dried, it is All Ali recipes recipes for for cod cod (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable suitable for hake. hake. HALBRAN. ALBRAN - Name Narne given given to to very very youngwild young wild duck. duck. HALBRAN. ALBRANWhen is called called duckling, then then duck. It It is When aa little little older older it it is cooked cooked like like duck duck (q.v.). (q.v.).

HALCYON HALCYON (kingfisher). (kingfisher). ALcyoN ALCYON -- The name narne of this this bird comes Greek alkuon alkuon (formed (fonned of als, ais, the sea, sea, and cornes from frorn the the Greek kuon, kuon, one who who nurses nurses its its young). young). Accordin! According to a a Greek legend of the the sea. sea. legend the the halcyon halcyon built built its its nest nest on on the the waves waves of

This This bird, bird, remarkable remarkable for for its its brilliant brilliant blue blue plumage, plumage, with varying of red red on on the the breast, breast, is is the the Australian Australian version varying shades shades of of of our our kingfisher, kingfisher, or or laughing laughing jackass. jackass. From From Australia the the species China and and Japan. Japan. species has has spread spread to to China The The halcyons halcyons built built their their nests nests with with the the aid aid of of a gelatinous gelatinous substance substance secreted secreted during d uring the the laying laying period period by by their their crops. crops. These In their their dried dried These nests nests are are much rnuch esteemed esteerned by by the the Chinese. Chinese. In state state they they are are imported imported into into Europe Europe and and are are greatly greatly prizd prized at the the best best tables, tables, where where they they are are known known as as birds' birds' nests. nests.

Slicing and serving serving ham haro in a large large restaurant Slicing restaurant

tirnes. In In 1813, 1813, the the fair fair was was transferred transferred to to the the quai times. quai des Grands-A ugustins, where where it remained remained until until 1832. 1832. It Grands-Augustins, It was and in in 1848 was transrnoved to faubourg Saint-Martin, moved Saint-Martin, and 1848 was ferred to the boulevard boulevard Bourdon. At the end of the Second rnoved, for the the last last time, tirne, to to the the boulevard boulevard Empire it was moved, todcry. where it is still held today. Richard-Lenoir, where and smoking of pork to produce ham harn is is of The salting and French origin. It was the Gauls, great devotees of pig meat French and efficient efficient pig pig breeders, breeders, who first became becarne renowned renowned for the and salting, smoking smoking and curing curing of of the the various cuts cuts of of pork. salting, After salting, the the Gauls subjected subjected thern thern for two days days to the After They then then rubbed rubbed them thern srnoke of certain selected woods. They smoke with oil and and vinegar vinegar and hung them thern up, to dry and and preserve preserve with The Gauls ate ham harn either at at the the beginning beginning of ofaa meal rneal to them. The them. or at the end end to induce thirst. sharpen their their appetites, appetites, or sharpen Many different different kinds kinds of of salt salt and smoked srnoked ham are obtainob tainMany in France. France. Almost Alrnost every every region region has has its own local ham. harn. able in able de Bayonne, Bayonne, cured Arnong the the best best known known arc are the the jambon jambon de Among curd at but known known the the world over as as jambon jambon de de Bayonne. Bayonne. Orthez, but is eaten eaten raw, raw, as as an hors-d'euvre.lt hors-d'œuvre. It is also also used used in harn is This ham other cooking in in various various ways, ways, but but unlike unlike York ham harn or other cooking lightly smoked srnoked hams, harns, it must must not not be be boiled. Jambon Jambon de de lightly Bayonne is served served with with eggs eggs cooked cooked in in various various ways, and it Bayonne also forms fonns an an ingredient ingredient of of various various sauces sauces and ragoûts. The also and ragofrts.The jambon jambon de de Toulouse Toulouse is is merely merely salted and dried. It It is eaten eaten de Bayonne, Bayonne, and and is is also also used used in in cooking. cooking. raw like like the thejambon jambon de raw of salted saI ted and and smoked srnoked hams harns called called There are are aa large large number n urn ber of There France jambons de de campagne. campagne. Among Arnong these these are are the the hams hams of in Francejambons in Brittany, Morvan, Morvan, Burgundy, Burgundy, Montagne-Noir Montagne-Noir (C6vennes), (Cévennes), Brittany, Lorraine, Alsace, Alsace, Touraine, Touraine, Limousin, Limousin, Auvergne, Auvergne, the the Lorraine, Vosges, Savoy, Sa voy, etc. etc. Almost Alrnost all ail these these hams ha ms are are eaten eaten raw, or Vosges, rnay be be used used in in cooking, cooking, like like the the jambon jambon de de Toulouse. Toulouse. Some Sorne may York ham. harn. rnay be be boiled boiled like like York may French cooking cooking hams, hams, similar sirnilar to to English English cooking cooking hams, harns, French or jambon jambon demi-sel, demi-sel, also also known known as as jambon jambon arejambon jambon blanc blanc or are de ParisParis. This This ham, harn, which which isis either either not not smoked srnoked at at all ail or or only only de very lightly lightly smoked, srnoked, is is sold sold by by all ail French French pork pork butchers butchers very na me of ofjambon jambon glaci. glacé. under the the name under The food food value value of of ham ham isis more more or or less less equivalent equivalent to to that that of of The rneaL However, However, salted salted or or smokod srnoked raw raw ham harn is is not not to to be be meat. recornrnended for for fragile fragile digestions, digestions, and and more more robust robust recommended of it. it. Cooked Cooked constitutions should should not not consume consume too too much rnuch of constitutions harn, on on the the other other hand, hand, may rnay be be given given to to children children and and ham, best boiled boiled in in plenty plenty of of water water invalids. Home-cooked Home-cooked ham harn isis best invalids. bought to remove rem ove fats fats and and toxic toxic substances. substances. Boiled Boiled ham harn bought to comrnercially, tinted tinted pink pink by by the the addition addition of of potassium potassium commercially, better avoided. avoided. nitrate, isis better nitrate,

Halibut Halibut

HALmUT. ru6rlNFLÉTAN - Large Largeflat fiat fish fish found found in in northern northern waters. waters. HALIBUT. more elongated elongated in in shape shape than than other other flat fiat fish, fish, the the The body body isis more The large. A A halibut halibut eyes are are on on the the right right side, side, and and the the mouth rnouth isis large. eyes

can be be as as much rnuch as as 22 m. m. (6| (6! feet) feet) long long and and weighs weighs between between can 150and and 200 200 kg. kg. (330 (330 and and 4l0lb.). 440 lb.). 150 The firm firm white white flesh flesh of of halibut halibut isis greatly greatly valued valued as as food, food, The and all ail recipes recipes for for brill brill (q.v.) (q.v.) may rnay be be used used for for this this fish. fish. and HALICOT OF OF MUTTON. MUTTON. rHucor HALICOT DE DE MouroN MOUTONrnutton HALICOT - AA mutton stew garnished garnished with with turnips, turnips, potatoes, potatoes, onions, onions, and, and, somesornestew MUTTON, Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot times, with with haricot haricot beans. beans. See See MUTTON, times, ofmutton. of mutton. HAM. tAMBoN JAMBON -- Strictly, Strictly, aa ham harn isis aa leg leg of of pork, pork, salted salted and and HAM.

tenn isis also also applied applied smoked. In In current current usage, usage, however, however, the the term smoked. ofpig pig that that isis cured cured in in the the same sarne fashion. fashion. This This to the the shoulder shoulder of to cut, though thoughexcellent, excellent, isis nevertheless nevertheless aa good good deal deal less less delicate delicate cut, than the the leg. leg. than In French French cookery cookery the the term tennjambon jambon not not only only means rneans ham harn In but also also applies applies to to aa leg leg of of fresh fresh pork. pork. This This cut cut can can be be but or divided divided into into cooked in in aa great great many rnany ways, ways, either either whole whole or cooked also used used as as an an ingredient ingredient for for stuffing, stuffing, and and srnallercuts. cuts. ItItisis also smaller variousmanufactured rnanufactured pork porkproducts products(see (seePORK). PORK). AA Ham Ham ininvarious Fairisisheld held regularly regularly inin Paris Paris and and several several other other large large French French Fair cities. This This fair fair whictr, which, in in former former times, tirnes, was was held held during during the the cities. Good Friday, Friday, and and which whichwas wasthen thencalled called threedays dayspreceding precedingGood three du lard lard (the (the Bacon Bacon Fair), Fair), took took place place in in the the square square in in Foire &t Foire ofNotre-Dame. Notre-Dame. The The canons canons leased leased the the ground ground to to the the front of front pork butchers. butchers. The The site site was was changed changed several several butchers and and pork butchen 442 42

HAM HAM parsley, and and the the foreleg hams, harns, Dijon hams harns prepared with parsley, hams of Paris, Reims, Strasbourg, Nancy etc. ha ms of industry, involves of ham, harn, which is now a great industry, The curing curing of The harns hams are salting and and smoking. The two two main operations, salting with dry dry salt, or rubbed over with either salted brine, or dry either salted in brine, well covered and left for three days weil salt, saltpetre and sugar and sall

American American foams harns (preserved). (preserved). r.luroNs JAMBONS D'AMfRrew D'AMÉRIQUE - Excel-

lent lent hams harns are are cured cured in in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. However, However, almost alrnost all ail American to Europe, Europe, and and particularly particularly to Arnerican hams harns exported exported to France, France, are cookod cooked and preserved. preserved . JAMBONS D'ANGLETBRRE D'ANGLETERRE - English hams harns are EngJish hams. barns. rnunoNs English usually usually described on on French French menus as as York ham, harn, but but a distinction distinction must be made between between the various various methods rnethods of processing. processing. This This is indicated indicated by their trade mark. mark. York ham, srnoked (lightly (Iightly or heavily), is usually usually harn, which which is smoked boiled. It is served either hot or cold. When hot, a special boiled. sauce sauce is served with it, flavoured with Madeir4 Madeira, sheery, port, York ham harn can also be be boiled and then then baked baked in the oyen, etc. York oven, covered with brown brown sugar, sugar, spice and cloves. covered York ham, harn, thinly sliced and saut6ed sautéed inbutter, in butter, is often Raw York

put into into brine, brine, washed, They are are then then put with this this mixture. They with chambers, smoked in special chambers, brushed and dried, and finally srnoked grows denser as the operasmoke which grows starting with a light srnoke starting

tion proceeds. proceeds. Poaching. Ham should be soaked in cold water for at least Poaching. boned at at the It isis then then scrubbed, scrubbed, boned hours before cooking. cooking. It 6 hours to cook, cook, without without any water to churnp end into cold cold water chump end and and put into seasoning or arornatics. seasoning aromatics. sometimes described harn cooked in this way is sornetimes Although ham 'boiled', it should, in fact, be poached and so as soon as the as 'boiled', poach, simrnering simmering heat and and leave to poach, reduce the heat water boils, reduce so that the water just shivers. Allow 20 minutes very gently so (l lb.) of York, Harnburg g. (J Hamburg or Paris cooking time per 500 g. little require aa Httle harn. Czechoslovakian and Spanish harns hams require ham. and Spanish less cooking cooking tirne. time. If ham is to be served cold, leave it to cool in the water If the harn remove in which it was cooked. Ifit ove If it is to be served hot, drain, rem glaze. the skin, skin, and and glaze. Cold harn ham is served with with jelly. frequently Hot ham harn is vegetables, rnost most frequently Hot is served served with with vegetables, spinach, Madeira or other wine sauce. spinach, and with Madeira poached the remove Glazing. the harn ham as as described, described, rernove Glazing. Having poached pan, sprinkle witb the skin. harn into sugar and into aa pan, with sugar and the skin. Put Put the ham brown in the oyen oven or under the grill. The sugar, upon cararnelising, light glaze on on the caramelising, forms aa Iight surface its appearance appearance not only only rnakes makes its the harn, ham, which which not surface of the flavour. more appetising, but also gives it a good flavour. given The harn method given ham can also be glazed by following the rnethod for braised rneats AR Y METHODS). METHODS). CULINARY meats (see CULIN

with eggs. eggs. served with

Baked York York ham barn Baked

German, Czechoelovakian Czechoslovakian ad and Hungsrian Hungarian hrms. barns. JAMBONS Germann JAMBoNS best-known is - The best-known harn which, like Westphalian Westphalian harn" harn, is is mostly rnostly eaten Mainz ham rnay also be boiled whole and before the raw, but may and served before course. Other well-known German frorn main course. German harns come from

D'ALLEMAGNE, DE BoIr6IvtE, BOH~ME, DE HoNcRJE HONGRIE D'ALLEIr.IAGNE,

Gotha and Stuttgart. Stuttgart. Hamburg, Gotha is Prague Prague ham; harn; it The best best Czechoslovakian Czechoslovakian ham harn is The it is whole, and makes rnakes aa delicious prelude to cooked whole, to the main harns are made in course. It is served cold. Excellent srnoked course. smoked hams are made Hungary. Hungary. Italian hams harns. reMsoNs JAMBONS D'rrALrE D'ITALIE - The best-known Italian Itrlian is Parma ham. harn. This is is usually usually eaten raw as harn is ham eateNr raw as an an horsis one one of the most rnost delicate of harns. be d'œuvre and is d'euvre hams. It It can be though it must not be be boiled, but cut into used in cooking, though thin slices or diced and sautéed in butter or fat. fat. Cooked in saut6ed in be served eggs, various this way it can be served with eggs, various rneat meat dishes, dishes, risottos. poultry or risottos. poultry There are other other kinds of ltalian There are Italian harn ham which which are are either boiled whole and eaten used in the same way eaten hot or cold, or used the sarne as Parma ham. harn. as Spanish barns. lNrasoNs JAMBONS D'ESPAGNE Asturias harn Spani$ hams. D'EspAcr.rE -- Asturias han is is the the best-known Spanish best-knovm Spanish harn. ham. It is is rnild, mild, very very delicate delicate in flavour, flavour, and is eaten eate,n hot or cold after having been been boiled. It It isis also also harns of used in cooking cooki.g like the hams of Bayonne and and Toulouse. poRc SALÉ Salted Sdted and srnoked harn. JAMBON lA,MsoN DE DE PORC rurrlf -smoked barn. snlJ ET sr FUMÉ Salted and and smoked srnoked harns, whether of Salted hams, whether of French French or or foreign been boiled as origin, after having been as described described below, provide an intermediate interrnediate course (remove) much prized by connois(remove) much an prized by connoisseurs. These harns are seurs. These boiled hams are also also served served cold. cold. Boiled and cold hams of various kinds are cold harns are to be be found found in ail the pork butchers of Paris and all and the the big big provincial towns. towns. In these shops frorn the jambon de In these shops are sold, apart are sold, apart from the jarnbon de Paris Paris harns boned boned and (jambon glacé), boiled hams and moulded moulded with with jelly, Qarnbon glaci), srnoked harns boiled boiled and smoked hams and cold, cold, boiled boiled rolled rolled harns, hams, Dijon Dijon

Jambonnière (Larousse) pan for Jambonnicre or braising pan for barn hzm(Larcuse)

ham as and poach very Braising. Soak the harn as described above and gently, so so that boiling is is hardly perceptible. Rernove ham 40 40 minutes Remove the the harn minutes before before itit is is cornpletely completely cooked. Skin it and put into aa braising pan. (scant pan. Add 55 dl. dl. (scant pint, (port, pint, 2i liqueur wine cups) Madeira Madeira or or any any other other liqueur wine (port, 2f cups) sherry, sherry, Frontignan, Lunel, Marsala etc.). Coyer with aa lid lid and and cook cook in in the the oyen oven for for between between 45 45 Cover with minutes minutes and hour. Glaze as described described above. above. the harn ham as and 1I hour. Glaze the Arrange put aa paper paper frill Arrange on frill around the on aa serving serving dish dish and and put around the knuckle. knuckle. Garnish de-scribed in in the the recipe, recipe, or or serve serve the the Garnish as as de~cribed garnish and and the the appropriate sauce separately. separately. appropriate sauce Garnishes and York and and other other hams and sauces sauces suitable for hams for York served (Madeira sauce), (Madeira s e r v ed hot. b err ic honne (Madeira ho t. Alsacienne A I s ac ienrc (Madeira sauce), berrichonne sauce), (Madeira (Madeira sauce), sauce), brabançonne brabangonne (Madeira sauce), chipolata chipolata (Madeira sauce), (Madeira sauce), glazed, sauce), glazed sauce), braised braised celery celery or or celeriac celeriac (Madeira cucurnbers (Madeira cucumbers in big chunks sauce), chicory chicory (Madeira chunks (Madeira sauce), sauce), (Madeira sauce), sauce), flamande sauce), leaf or or chopped chopped spinach spinach (Madeira flamande (demi-glace (dcmi-glace sauce), macCdoine sauce\, hongroise hongroise (demi-glace sauce), sauce), macédoine

443 43

HAM

Ham Ham glace glacé (RoDert (Robert Cafiier') Carrier)

444 M4

HAM HAM (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce), sauce), nivernaise nivernaise (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce), sauce), noodles noodles with noisette noisette butter butter (Madeira, (Madeira, sherry sherry or port port sauce), garden garden with peas peas or or other other green green vegetable vegetable dressed dressed with butter butter or cream cream (Madeira (Madeira sauce, sauce, or or wine-flavoured wine-flavoured cream cream sauce), sauce), various various fresh or or dried dried vegetable vegetable pur6es purées (demi-glace (demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured flavoured fresh Madeira or other other liqueur liqueur wine), wine), romaine romaine (Marsala (Marsala with Madeira with sauce). (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE.) sauce). Ham Aà I'alsacienne l'alsacienne I. J. rnaron JAMBON A À t'ats.lcIBNNE L'ALSACIENNE -- Braise Braise the Ham glaze it as harn and and glaze as described above. above. Garnish Garnish with braised ham sauerkraut, Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages sa usages and and boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. sauerkraut, Ham ià I'alsacienne l'alsacienne II. Il. rAMsoN JAMBON A À r'lrs^lclsNNn L'ALSACIENNE - Heat Ham cooked, thinly sliced York ham ham in in a a few few tablespoons of cooked, without allowing it to boil. Serve on a foundation of stock without braised sauerkraut. braised Garnish with Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages sausages and boiled potatoes. potatoes. Garnish Ham ià la bayonnaise. bayonnaise. JAMBoN JAMBON A À L.l LA slvoNNAIsE BA YONNAISE - Poach Poach a Ham harn in water until three three quarters weil de-salted de-salted Bayonne ham well cooked . Take out out of the the pan, pan, remove skin skin and and trim trim off cooked. surface only. surplus fat on the surface Put it into aa pan pan and finish braising braising in Madeira. Madeira. Glaze Glaze and (se' PILAF), a long dish. pilaf (see dish. Serve with Rice pilaf arrange on a little and !ittle chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, small small button button mushrooms mushrooms and chopped chipolata sausages fried fried in butter. Serve with Madeira sauce chipolata (see SA UCE) based on the braising liquor. liguor. SAUCE) PERSILLE DE Burgundian ham bam with parsley parsley (cold). JAMBON JAMBoN PERSILLÉ hrrgundian BOURGOGNE - This is an an Easter luncheon dish Burgundy' in Burgundy. dish in BouRGocNE Wash and and desalt desalt the the ham. ham. Blanch it it thoroughly, drain, Wash pan with skin, and cut into big pieces. Put these these into aa large pan 500 oz.) sliced feet, boned, calf's feet, (18 oz.) knuckle, 22 calf's g. (18 veal knuckle, sliced veal 500 g. (q.v.) blanched and tied with string, and aa big bouquet garni (g.v.) with, and tarragon, herbs, chervil chervil and usual herbs, to the usual in addition to with, in and Season with aa peppercorns (tied in aa piece ofmuslin). of muslin). Season l0 peppercorns and JO little all the meat. meat. cover ail to coyer little salt. salt. Add enough dry white wine to Bring to me, reduce heat, coyer, cover, and and reduce heat, high fla flame, on aa high the boil boil on to the simmer gently on clear stock. stock. very clear heat, ta obtain aa very low heat, to obtain on aa low This the ham. accompany the the jelly to accompany be used used for making the This will be When and fork and with aa fork cooked, drain, drain, flake with well cooked, the ham ham is is weil When the put into aa salad well. down weil. dish, pressing it down salad dish, Strain vinegar. tarragon vinegar. liquor. Add Add 1 tablespoonful tarragon the liquor. Strain the (3 tableWhen tabletablespoons (3 add 22 tablespoons to coagulate, coagulate, add begins to When itit begins spoons) ham. Leave Leave over the ham. parsley. Pour Pour this jelly over chopped parsley. spoons) chopped in prepare this this dish dish to prepare It isis advisable advisable to cold. It in aa cool cool place until cold. the required. day before before it is is required. the day Ham Cook aa JAMBoN AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTn -- Cook in Chambertin. Ham in Chambertin. JAMBON York quarters done. done. three quarters in water water until until three ham in York or or Prague Prague ham Drain, skin. Drain, trim trim and and skin. Braise cooked, When cooked, on Chambertin. Chambertin. When liquor based based on Braise in in aa liquor drain glaze. ham and and glaze. drain the the harn Surround glazd onions mushand button button mushonions and with small small glazed Surround with rooms pour liquor and and pour the braising braising liquor Strain the frid inin butter. butter. Strain rooms fried over ham. over the the ham. Cold and, ifif ham in in water water and, the harn FRoID -- Poach Poach the ham. JAMBON JAMBoN FROID Cold barn. itit isis to poaching in its its poaching leave itit to to cool cool in whole, leave to be be served served whole, liquor, ove skin, with Aspic Aspic jelly cover with and coyer remove skin, and liquor, then then trim, trim, rem ielly (see Y). (see JELL JELLY). Ifit put into into aa skin, put remove skin, bone it, it, trim, trim, rernove to be be moulded, moulded, bone If it isis to Id, and special press. under aa press. leave to to cool cool under and leave special mou mould, Cold Pound DE JAt\1BON JAMBoN -- Pound Mous$ FROIDE FRoIDE DE mousse. MOUSSE ham mousse. Cold ham finely (18 oz.) g. (18 lean ham ham adding adding oz.) cooked cooked lean in aa mortar mortar 500 500 g. finely in 22 dl. (see Velouti sauce sauce (see pint, scant thick Velouté cup) cold, cold, thick scant cup) dl. (1(+ pint, UCE) . Rub SA sieve. through aa sieve. Rub through SAUCE). Put ice and andstir stir stand itit on purde into on ice into aa bowl, bowl, season, season,stand Put this this purée with en spoon little by by for aa few few minutes, adding, little with aa wood wooden spoon for minutes, adding, !ittle, jelly. Fold pint, pint, ~3 cup) dl. (f;pint, liquid jelly. Fold inin 44dl. little, li l+ dl. dl. (i c,rp) liquid ft pint, scant jellyJined Pour into into aa jelly-lined scant 22 cups) cups) half-whipped half-whipped crearn. cream. Pour mould to set. set. mould and and leave leave on on ice ice to Turn cro0ton. and and Turn out buttered bread bread croûton, or aa buttered out onto onto aa dish, dish. or garnish jelly. garnish with with jelly.

Ham mousse mousse Ham

A LA York or or Ham àA la JAMBoN À m CRÈME cnirun -- Cook Cook aa York la crème. crbme. JAMBON Ham two thirds thirds done, done, skin, skin, and and ham in in salted salted water until until two Prague harn (q.v.). Drain glaze. Drain and and glaze. in aa Madeira mirepoix (q.v.). braise in two thirds, and and add liquor by add 55 dl. dl. by two Boil down the braising liquor (scant pint, pint, 2* cream. Boil Boil down down sauce sauce 2l cups) cups) fresh fresh double double cream. (scant ham. serve with with the the ham. by one third, strain, strain, and and serve by sN CROÛTE Prague h{fm hrnn in in Hanr en m croûte. JAMBoN EN cno0rE -- See Se Prague cro0te. JAMBON Ham l'ancienne. pastry àd l'ancienne.

glace Ham Ham glacé Reine Reine Pédauque P6dauque (Larousse) (Larousse)

(cold buffet rnanoN glac6 Reine buffet dish). dish). JAMBON Pddauque (cold Ham Ham glacé Reine Pédauque pope's eye eye slices the thepope's into thin thin slices Cut into - Cut poached in (U.S. inMeursault Meursault ham, poached (U .S. eye of aa York York harn, eye of of the the round) round) of again, the slices slices together together again, wine left untiJ cold. Put Put the wine and and left until cold. (see purie (see gras purée sandwiching layersof of Foie Foie gras with layers sandwiching them them with ham the harn reshaping the PURÉE) diced truffies, trufles, reshaping PUREE) mixed with diced mixed with port-flavouredChaud-froid Chaud-froid into with port-fiavoured Coat with form. Coat into its its original original form. portglaze with with portUCE). Decorate sauce (se SA truffies, glaze Decorate with with truffies, sauce (see SAUCE). jellycroûtons. jelly, and cro0tons. flavoured with jelly and surround surround with flavoured aspic aspic jelly, AULAITUES, LAITUES, JAMBoN AU Ham and endives. endives. JAMBON with lettuce, lettuce, chicory chicory and Ham with Madeira, Braise the haminin Madeira, AUX theham ENDIVES ÀA LA ra CHICORÉE cmconir - - Braise AUX ENDIVES (orchicory orendive) endive) garnish lettuces(or chicoryor garnish with halved braised braised lettuces with halved (see and Demi-glace sauce sauce(see Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace and serve serve with with Madeira-fiavoured SAUCE). SAUCE). ham, Ham Desaltthe theham, u MAILLOT u.l'trror - - Desalt JAMBoNÀALA Ham ài lalamaiUot. maillot. JAMBON panand wrap andcoyer cover with with put ininaalarge large braising braising pan cloth,put wrap itit ininaacloth, cold gently. cold water. water. Simmer Simmergently. When intoaasrnall small skin.Put Putititinto drain and andskin. cooked, drain theham ham isiscooked, Whenthe (scantpint, pint, 2*2|cups) cups) braising grid,add panwith litre (scant add!I litre with aagrid, braising pan pEoluer.]E GLACÉ REINE nsn[E PÉDAUQUE

crltcf

a

445 445

HAM Madeira. Madeira. Coyer Cover and simmer for 30 minutes. Glaze. Garnish glazed carrots into balls, French beans, with balls, French beans, small with glazed carrots cut cut into glazd in in stock, and and braised lettuce. Arrange Arrange these onions onions glazed and serve with Madeira Madeira sauce vegetables in separate groups and (see SAUCE). pashy, or bam tmfres. ham turnover fumover with foie gras and trufHes. Ham in pastry, AU FOIE GRAS ET EN CHAUSSON, CHAUS$N, CHAUSSON DE JAMBON AU JAMBON EN

or sherry. When a harn ham in Madeira, port or TRUFFES in Madeira, TRUFFES -- Braise a and the round, round, trim them, cooked, take out the pope's eye eye and l0 slices of uniform thickness. and cut each into 8 or 10 thickness. these on rolled out out Lining an oval-shaped piece Put these piece of rolled on an (se.e DOUGH) paste foundation of DOUGID on on aa foundation of duxelles &txelles (q.v.) pas te (see mixture and and chopped chopped truffies, truffies, alternating with with layers layers of mixture gras tossed in butter, and foie gras and slivers of truffies. Coyer Cover the foie trufres, duxelles mixture and and chopped truffies, ham with aa layer of duxelles put another piece of rolled-out.lining rolled-outJining paste on top, seal, seal, and pinch up the edges. Brush the top with beaten egg, make a up the beater egg, few light incisions and a hole in the middle to allow steam to escape. Bake in a hot oyen oven for about 45 minutes. (see SAUCE) few tablespoons of of Port sauce (see Pour Port sauce Pour aa few and serve the rest of ofthe sauoe separately. separately. through the hole and the sauce through pastry can be gamishes, Ham be prepared with with various Ham in in pastry various garnishes, ragofrt à ragofrt àd lafinancière. lafinanciire, ragoût d la h Godard, morels morels fried such as ragoût braised vegetable. vegetable. in butter, spinach or any other braised place the harn is to place ham and and its garnish on Another variation is aa round piece of pastry, which is then folded over, forming the classic turnover. turnover. pArE DE pie. PÂTÉ os JAMBON JAMBoN -- Using thin slices slices of ham, Ham Ham pie. Using thin FORCEMEAT) and truffies, prepare as fine forcemeat (see FORCEMEAn Veal and and ham ham pAti Veal pâté (see PÂTÉ). $eePATE). ham in pastry à I'ancienne. JAMBON IRAGUE EN I l'ancienne. JAMBoN DE PRAGUE Prague bam pAre.iÀ L'ANCIENNE L'ANcIENNE -- Poach the ham in water until it is twoPÂTE thirds done. Drain, skin and glaze. put it, glazd si piece of When cold, it, glazed side When de down, cold, put down, on on aa big piece (xe DOUGH), spread with a layer Lining paste rolled-out Lining paste (see

in pastry àd l'ancienne Prague ham l'ancienne Prague haro in (Larousse\ (Larousse)

(q.v) of of vegetables have been of fine fine mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) which have of vegetables which driod duxelles (q.v.) and softened softened in butter and mixed with dried chopped truffies. Tum it ham in the pastry and and seal seal the edges. Turn Enclose the harn and put into aa buttered baking tin, tin, sealed sealed si side over and de down. Brush the the top top with with beaten egg, egg, and and decorate with Brush with fancy pieces of Make a hole in the middle to allow steam to pieces of pastry. Make ove,n for about 45 minutes. escape and bake in a hot oyen (see into it it aa few Pour into few tablespoons of Pirigueux Périgueux sauce (see middle. SAUCE) through the hole in the middle. Ham with sauerkraut. sauerkraut JAMBON JAMBoN À A LA tl CHOUCROUTE cnoucRourE -- The Ham sance same as Harn I'alsacienne. Serve with Demi-glace sauce sa me as Ham àd l'alsacienne. Serve with (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or a sauce based on Aisation Alsation wine. Aux ÉPINARDS Ham with spinacb. spinach. JAMBON JAMBoN AUX tprNARDs -- Braise the ham in butter, in Madeira. Madeira. Serve with with leaf spinach cooked cooked in in butter, or spinach cooked in stock. Serve with Demi-glace or chopped spinach (w SAUCE). Madeira sauce (see

( Robert Carrier) Carrier) Ham in pastry (Robert

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HARE HARE paws, paws, are are invisible. invisible. With With age, age, the the claws claws grow grow and and project project slightly slightlybeyond beyond the thefur. fur. Brie, of Beauce, those French French hares. hares. The The best best are are those of Beauce, Brie, NorNormandy, mandy, Champagne Champagne and and Touraine. Touraine, The The hares hares of ofnorthern northern France France and and Brittany Brittany are are of ofinferior inferior quality. This isis due due to to the the nature nature of of the the soil, soil, which which isis poor poor quality, This feeding feeding ground ground for for hares. hares. golden The The hares hares of of Beauce, Beauce, Brie Brie and and Champagne Champagne have have golden coats, coats, the the colour colour of ofripe ripe corn. corn. The The hares hares of of Normandy Normandy and and Touraine Touraine are are usually usually small' small, with with tan tan coats, coats, darker darker than than those those of of Beauce, Beauce, Brie Brie and and ChamChampagne. pagne. The The hares hares of of Brittany Brittany are are small, small, and and have have very very dark dark tan tan coats coats mottled mottled with with black. black. quality, fine are of France southern hares of Many Many of of the the hares of southem Franee are of fine quality, especially of P6rigord Périgord and and Gascony, Gascony, though though these these are are especially those those of Paris. in sale on found to be seldom seldom to he found on sale in Paris. English English hares. hares. Similar Similar to to those those from from NormandyNomlandy. German German hares. !lares, Latger Larger than than the the French French varieties varieties but but inferior inferior in in flavour. Ilavour. For this dish Hare Hare ià I'allemande. l'allemande. r$vnr LŒVRE A À r'ltLn'HNDE L'ALLEMANDE -- For this dish the the saddle sadd le and and haunch haunch ofthe of the hare hare are are used. used. Roast Roast the the hare hare in in the the usual usual way way and and pour pour sour sour cream cream into into the the roasting roasting pan. pan. separatelyserve Strain Strain the the sauce sauce through through a a fine fine sieve sieve and and serve separately. (See Sometimes Sometimes this trus sauce sauce is is poured poured over over the the hare. hare. (See also also Saddle Saddle of of hare hare dà I'allemande l'allemande below)below). Made os LtivRE (colO. BALLoTTINE hare of Ballotine of BaIJotine of hare (cold). BALLOTTINE DE LiÈVRE -- Made of pork fal, fat, foic slices of slices of hare, hare, lean lean ham, ham, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, pork foie gras, gras, of Galantine of same way stumng, in and hare truffies truffles and hare stuffing, in the the same way as as Galantine GALANTINE). chicken cMcken (see (see GALANTINE). DE la perigurdine of hare Ballottine @oQ. BALLoTTINE Ballottine of bore à la périgourdine (hot). BALLOTTINE DE pfnrcounpn*s-- Bone on r-1, PÉRlGOURDl1'-'E uivnr LŒVRE A Â LA Bone aa young young harehare. Spread Spread it it on pork fat. Season with of pork slices of with thin covered with a cloth covered a cloth thin slices fat. Season with of with aa layer it' Coyer Cover with pour brandy over il. and pour salt and spiced salt spiced brandy over layer of chopped with chopped flesh of of aa leveret, the fiesh game stuffing made from stuffing made game from the leveret, with put altemate thin alternate thin stuffing put of this this stuffing On top added. On truffies added. truffles top of in butter, and browned thighs the from hare, cut of strips strips of hare, cut from the trughs and browned in butter, pour Season and and pour gras and of truffles. trufres. Season slices of and slices of /oie strips of strips foie gras gratin of àri gratin layer of with aa layer Cover with ingredients. Coyer these ingredients. over these brandy over brandy roll into aa roll hare into Fold the the hare (see FORCEMEAT). game stuffing FORCEMEAT). Fold stuffing (see game made stock made braising stock Madeira braising in aa Madeira Braise itit in string. Braise tie with with string. and tie and hare and and of the the hare trimmings of and trimmings the bones bones and veal, the of veal, from shin shin of from hours' for IJ lf hours. pot vegetables. Cook for vegetables. Cook usual pot and the the usual leveret, and the leveret, the oven. in the the oyen. Brown in the string. string. Brown remove hare and and rem the hare Drain the Drain ove the trufres shredded truffles add shredded strain" add liquor, strain, the braising braising Iiquor, down the Boil down Boil pour over the ballottine. ballottine. over the and pour and young draw aa young and draw Skin and nn LIÈVRE lrivnn - Skin clvst DE of hore. hare. CIVET Civef of Civet reliver, reput itit aside the liver, aside with with the and put the blood blood and Collect the hare. Colleet hare. gall bladder. bladder. the galJ moving the moving pieces. Put or 44 pieces. into 33 or the body body into cutting the hare, cutting the hare, Joint the Joint Put powdered pepper, thyme and powdered thyme and salt, pepper, with salt, season with in aa dislr, dish, -season these in these table2 or 3 with Moisten onion. sliced onion. Moisten with 2 or 3 tableAdd aa sliced leaf. Add bay leaf. bay this hare in in tbis the hare Leave the brandy. Leave tablespoon brandy, and 1I tablespoon oil and spoons oil spoons hours. for 3 marinade marinade for 3 houTs. in butter butter parboil and then brown brown in and then hare parboil medium-sized hare For aa medium-sized For the from the Remove from squares. Remove into squares. cut into lean bacon, g.(7 bacon, eut oz.) lean 2AO g. 200 (7 oz.) quartered onions. Add onions' Add brown 22 quartered butter, brown same butter, pan and, in the thesame and, in pan with aa stirring with (3 tablespoons) flour. Cook, Cook, stirring tablespoons) fiour. tablespoons (3 22 tablespoons golden colour. colourflour isis aa golden the flour until the spoon until wooden wood en spoon the them inin the Brown them dried. Brown pieces of well dried. hare, well of hare, the pieces Add the Add just to cover red wine wine just enough red with enough Moisten with roux, stirring. stirring. Moisten roux, to coyer (q.v.), toto wruch has been been garni(q.v.), which has bouqtet garni Addaa bouquet the hare. hare. Add the for slowly for pan and simmerslowly and simmer the pan garlic. Coyer Cover the ofgarlic, clove of added aaclove added hour. to 1I hour. 45minutes minutes to 45 of skin skin fragments of offany any fragments Scrape off hare.Scrape piecesof of hare. Drain the the pieces Drain put inin andput sauoepanand out the the saucepan them.Clean Cleanout to them. clinging 10 or bone bone clinging or 24 and24 onions braised on 24small small braised bacon, 24 thefcied fried bacon, Add the thehare. hare. Add ions and the the themarinade marinade totothe Add the butter.Add tossedininbutter. smallmushrooms mushrooms tossed smaU

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York Yorkham hamiàIalafinnncilre" financière. JAMBoN JAMBOND'YoRK D'YORKAÀI"q' LAFINANcGRE HNANCLÈRE-

Braise Braise the the ham ham in in Madeira. Madeira. Glazs Glaze and and surround surround with with Financiire Financière garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Skim Skim off offsurplus surplus fat fat from liquor, boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over from the the braising braising liquor, the the ham. ham.

HAMBLTRGER HAMBURGER STEAK' STEAK, (Austrellnngarian (Austro-Hungarian cmkery). cookery). rrrKEFbrowned inbutter rsDEsTEDES-This Thisdishis dish ismade made from from minced minced beef beefbrowned in butter or or fat. fat. Similar Similar 'steaks' 'steaks' are are made made from from minced minced veal, veal, poultry poultry and game. game. Here Here isis aa Hungarian Hungarian recrpe recipe for for hamburger hamburger steak: steak: and I1 kg. kg. QI (2± lb.) lb.) finely finely minced minced lean lean beef beef or or veal, veal, 10 10 rashers rashers chopped chopped bacon. bacon. Mix Mix the the beef beef or or veal veal with with the the bacon bacon and and add add to to itit 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) of of crustless crustless bread bread soaked soaked in in milk milk and and squeezed squeezed out. out. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. When When all aU the the ingredients ingredients are are well weil mixd, mixed, divide divide into into pieces pieces of of equal weight. weight. Shape Shape each each piece piece into into a a steak steak 7J cm. cm. (3 (3 inch) thick. inches) inches) in in diameter diameter and and 22 cm. (nr (~inch) truck. Flour, Flour, and and fry fry in in fat. fat. When When they they are cooked, cooked, dip dip in in concentrated concentrated meat meat stock. stock. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes potatoes or other other vegetables. vegetables. Hamburger Hamburger steak steak (German (German cookery). cookery). KEFTEDES lŒFTEDES DE DE BoEUF BOEUf·Proceed Proceed as for for Hamburger Hamburger steak (also (a/so called called dà l'allemande) l'allemande) (see (see BEEF), BEEF), but but leave Ieave out the the chopped fried fried onions. onions. pe BOEUf A Hamburger Hamburger steaks steaks à la berlinoise. berlinoise. KEFTEDEs KEFTEDES DE nosuF À rA, LA BERLINoIsB Mince finely fine1y 300 300 g. g. (II oz.) oz.) lean kan beef beef and and BERLINOlSE - Mince 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) fat bacon or salt pork' pork. Add Add 75 75 e. g. Q (3 oz.) oz.) soft soft 75 brcad soaked soaked in milk milk and and squeezed dry. dry. Season Season with with salt, salt, bread pepper and nutmeg and mix thoroughly. so that Divide the mixture into 4 parts. parts. Shape each each piece piece so that Dip in flour and fry in boiling flal. Dip boiling lard. lard. Brown Brown it is round and flat. sauce (see Potn Demi'glace sides. Pour on both the the steaks well weil on both sides. Demi-glace sauce (see thern to serve. SAUCE) over them fat DE GIBIER cIBIER-- Remove KEFTEDEs DE hamburger steaks. KEFTEDES Game Remove fat Gare hamburger tableadding 1 tablegame. Minee Mince finely, the game. from the and fînely, adding and sinews sinews from pieces into pieces spoon chopped onion browned in butter. butter, Divide Divide into in Dip in shapes. Dip oval shapes. round or or oval little round of equal size and pat into Iittle and sauce and an appropria appropriate butter. Serve with an and fry in butter. flour and te sauce garnish. gamish. ProVoLAILLE .,- ProDE VOLAILLE KEFTEDES DE steaks. KEFTEDES Pooltry hamburger steaks. Poultry bamburger poultry for for substituting poultry hamburger steaks, substituting for Game Gante hamburger ceed as as for game. game.

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porbeagle. Type of of porbeagle. MARTEAU -- Type SHARK. MARTEAU HAMMERHEAD SHARK. HAMMERHEAD in sorne some eaten in and eaten leathery, is salted salted and and leathery, oily and Its flesh, flesh, which which isis oily Its parts of of the the world. world. parts

meat or or tenderising meat for tenderising Process for MoRTIFIER -- Process HANGING. MORTIFIER HANGING. period. for aa period. hang for game by to hang leaving itit to by leaving game very dry dry cool, well-ventilated, well-ventilated, very in aa cool, hook in Hang meat meat on on aa hook Hang place. place.

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highly flavoured flavoured flesh, highly with dark dark flesh, rodent with Wild rodent t dvns - Wild HARE. LIÈVRERARE. than delicate than more delicate hare isis more mountain hare The mountain to cal. eat. The and excellent excellent to and plains. that of of the the plains. that ln doe. In the female female aa doe. and the buck and called aa buck The male male hare hare isis called The called aafinancier; young leveret to 33 months months isis called up to leveret up France aa young France financier; year aa capucin capucin,or and atat aa year tois-quarfs and to 66 months months aa Irois-quarts up to up or that fact that by the the fact recognised by can he be recognised hares can Young hares lièvre ti|vre fait. fait. Young prominence on on aa rounded prominence little rounded and bya by a little easily and ears tear tear easily their ears their grows older. joint which older. as itit grows disappears as which disappears leg joint under the the Ieg bone bone under left or, ifif itit isisleft shot,or, as itit isisshot, soon as assoon fresb, as Hare can can he be eaten eaten fresh, Hare on the the depending on killing, depending after killing, days after getcold, or three three days cold, two two or to get to 'high'. year.ItIt must never be be eaten eaten 'rugh'. must never of the the year. time of time fust itsfirst tenderinin its always tender hare isis always hare. AA hare How 10to choose choose aahare. How stringy, andstringy, tough and grows oider itsflesh flesh becomes becomes tough year. As older its As ititgrows year. year. itssecond second year. in its tender in female isisstill still tender the female but the but paws slenderpaws their slender by their berecognised recognised by hares can can he First-year hares FirSI-year hares, older hares, which,ininolder coat wruch, of their their coat thesmoothness smoothnessof and by by the and greying. ofgreying. tracesof shows traces wavyaand slightly wavy becomes slightly becomes nd shows fur of of the the thefur under the hidden under claws, hidden young hare, theclaws, hare, the Inaayoung In

447

HARE HARE pour over cooking slock. stock.Slrain Strainand andpour pan overIbe the hare. hare. Co Cover thepan eooking ver the and cook cook ininaamoderale moderateoyen oven for for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. and few minutes minutes before beforeserving, serving, add add the thechopped liver to chopped liver to the the AA few Thicken the civet.Thicken thesauce saucewith with the thehare's hare'sblood blood mixed mixed with with 33 civet. or 44 tablespoons tablespoons fresh freshcream. cream. or Garnish with with sliees slices of of bread bread cut cut into into the the shape shapeof ofhearts, hearts, Gamish fried inin but butter. 1er. fried Civetof of lIare hare au au chaudron. chaudron. CIVET osLIÈVRE crvrT DE uivRE AU AUCHAUDRONcHAUDRoN Civet Prepared in in the the same same way way as as Civet Civet of of hare, hare, except except that that the the Prepared hare isis cooked pot hanging cooked in in aa pOl hanging frorn from aa hook hook inin the the chimney chimney hare of an an open open wood wood tire. fire. Also, Also, the the sauce sauce isis thickened thickened with with of kneaded butter (4 oz., butter and and flour g. (4 flour -- 100 100 g. oz, -}* cup) cup) butter butter and and 22 kneaded (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour young hare. flour for for aa young hare. tablespoons Garnish witb with blanched, blanched, coarsely coarsely diced pork diced belly belly of of pork Garnish browned in in butter, butter, and and small small onions. onions. browned Civef of of hare hare ài la la flamande. flamande. CIVET crvET DE or LIEVRE rGvne ÀA LA LA FLAMANDE FLAMANDE Civet pieces of Brown pieces hare in of hare in butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle wilh with 22 lablespoons tablespoons -- Brown (3 tablespoons) /lour, flour, and and cook cook for for aa few few seconds, seconds, stirring stirring (3 tablespoons) with aa wooden woode,n spoon. spoon. with. pints, generous Moisten with generous quart) with 1I litre litre (1(lf~ pints, quart) red red wine wine to to Moisten which has has been added the the liver liver rubbed been added rubbed through through aa sieve, sieve, the the which ($ pint, pint, seant blood, and and 22 dl. dl. G scant cup) cup) vinegar. vinegar. Season Season with with salt salt blood, pepper. Add (l oZ.,2 g. (1 and pepper. Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) tablespoons) brown brown sugar sugar and and and garni(q.v.). large bouquet bouquet garni Cover, and and cook cook for for 12 12 minutes. minutes. aa large (q.v.). Coyer, onions Add 44 on finely sliced sliced and and tossed tossod in in butter. butter. Complete Complete the the Add ions finely cooking in in the the oyen, pan covered. keeping the oven, keeping the pan covered. cooking pieces of When the the pieces of hare hare are put are cooked, cooked, drain, drain, dry, dry, and and put When pan. Sieve thern in in aa frying frying pan. Sieve the the sauce sauce with pour with the the onions, onions, pour them over the the hare hare and simmer for for aa few and simmer few minutes. minutes. over Surround the the civet civet with with sliees slices of of bread cut into into the the shape shape Surround bread cut jelly. of hearts, hearts, fried frid in in butter butter and and spread spread with with redcurrant redcurrant jelly. of Civet of of hare hare ài la la Iyollllaise. lyonnaise. CIVET crvET DE nr LIÈVRE riivns ÀA LA ra LYONryoNCivet NArs Proceed as for ordinary as for ordinary Civet Civet of of hare, hare, replacing replacing the the NAISE -- Proceed mushrooms chestnuts eooked by cbestnuts cooked in in stock stock and and browned. mushrooms by browned. pn r$vns Harre cutlets CÔTELETrES c6rsrrrrgs DE There are are three Hare cutlets. L!F.VRE - There three preparing different ways of hare cutlets. different ways of preparing hare cutlets. l. Make croquette forcemeat 1. Make a a croquette forcemeat using using scraps scraps of of hare, hare, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies, truffies, blended blended with with a a thick thick brown brown or or white Shape into white sauce. sauce. Leave Leave to 10 cool. cool. Shape into cutlets, cutlets, and and cook cook in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Serve Serve with with aa game game sauce. sauce. 2. quarter of of 2. Chop Chop finely finely the the raw raw flesh /lesb of of aa hare. hare. Add Add aa quarter its its weight weight of of bread, bread, soaked soaked and and squeezod squeezed dry, dry, and and the the same same quantity quantity of of butter. butter. Season Season well. weIl. Shape Shape the the mixture mixture into into cutlets. eullets. Flour Flour them them and and fry fry in in clarified clarificd butter. butter. Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on conconcentrated centrated game game stock. stock. 3. 3. Using Using raw raw hare, hare, make make aa forcemeat foreemeat with wilh bread bread boiled boiled to to aa pulp, mou Ids and and poach. poach. pulp, and and butter. butter. Fill Fil! buttered butlered cutlet cutlet moulds Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish to to taste. taste. Serve on on pieces pieces of Pour Pour over over therr them aa brown brown or or white white sauce sauce based based on on conceneoncengame stock. trated trated game stock. Fillets FlLETS oE DE utvnE LIÈVRE -- Fillet Fillet aa raw raw saddle saddle of of Fillets of of hare. hare. FrLErs hare hare so so that Ihat the the meat meat comes cornes away away in in long long slices. slices. Remove Remove the the tendons. tendons. Interlard Interlard with with best best lardoons. lardoons. Season Season and and put put the the fillets fillets in in aa baking baking dish. dish. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter and and aa little little brandy brandy over over them them and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. Serve of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish Serve each each fillet fillet on on aa slice slice of according according to to the the recipe reeipe used. used. Mask Mask with with aa sauce sauce suitable suitable for for ground game. ground game. The The filets filets mignons, mignons, the the slender slender strips strips of of meat meat inside inside the the saddle, ean be be prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as as the the larger larger fillets. fiUets. sadd le, can Usually, Usually, however, however, they they are are left left with with the the larger larger fillets. fi.lIets. GarGarnishes hare are nishes and and sauces sauces for for Saddle Saddle of ofhare are suitable suitable for for fillets. fillets. In ln some sorne restaurants, restaurants, special special enfiies entrées are are made made with wilh fillets fillets ofhare. of bare. They They are are folded folded into into crescent crescenl shapes shapes and and cooked cooked as as indicated indicated above. above. They Theyare arethen then presented presented on onaafoundation foundation of of Mousseline Mousselineforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) made made from from the the remaining remainingmeat meat of ofthe the hare, hare, and and served served with with garnishes garnishes such such

asFinancière, Finan cib r e,Périgourdine, (seeGARNISHES). P b r ig our dine, Rossini, Ro s s ini,etc. etc.(see GARNI SHES). as All Ihese these entrées, enfiees, whicb which are are in in the grande cuisine, therealm realmof ofgrande cuisine,are AU are served with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), sauce(see SAUCE), based based on served on conconcentrated stock stock made madefrom from the the bones bones and and trimmings trimmings of of the the centrated hare. hare. Filleb of of hare hare Ill! enchaud-froid. chaud-froid. f1LETS FTLETS DE or LIÈVRE rdvne EN Fillets EN CHAUDcHAUDFRoID -- Stud Stud the the fillets fillets with with trumes. truffies. Fold Fold into into the theshape shape of FROID of crescents. Sim Simmer Madeira and and leave leave to tocool. cool. Mask Mask with crescenlS. mer inin Madeira with aa brown or or white white Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce (ser-,SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based brown based on on concentratd stock. stock. concentrated Decorate with with truffies, trufres, the the whites whites of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs or Decorate or jelly and garnish. Glaze jelly other garnish. Glaze with with jelly pour over and pour over clear other clear jelly flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or or sorne some other other heavy heavy wine. wine. flavoured Fillets of of bare hare in in cream. cream. FILETS FTLETs DE os LIÈVRE uivRE ÀA LA ra CRÈME Fillets cnirr,re -Interlard the the fillets. fillets. Sleep Steep Ihem them for for 1I hour hour in in aa marinade of marinade of Interlard pepper and brandy, oil, oil, salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices. Proceed Proceedas asfor brandy, for Saddle Saddle of of (q.v.). hare àd ['allemande I'allemande (q.v.). hare pn LIÈVRE Fillets of hare Ili la la Llcullus. of bare lacullus. FlLETS FTLETS DE rdvnr ÀA LA ra LUCULrucurFillets rus -- Decorate Decorate the the fillets fillets of pickled tongue of hare hare with with pickled tongue and and LUS truffies eut cut in in the the shape shape of of cocks' cocks'combs and dipped dipped in trumes combs and in white white of egg. egg. Foid Fold Ihem them inlo into crescent crescent shapes gently in shapes and and simmér simmel gently of in and butter. butter. brandy and Drain the the fillets. fillets. Arrange Arrange them them in pastry cru in aa flaky flaky pastry crust Drain st filled with (q.v.) with aa salpicon salpicon (q. gras blended truffies and afr,foie v.) of trumes foie gras filled blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE) based based on on concentrated with game stock. stock. game Fillets of of bare hare sautéed saut6ed with with tmffles. trufres. ALETS FTLETS DE on LIÈVRE rdvnn Fillets slurEs AUX AUX TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- Cut the the fillets into sliees. slices. Season, Season, and SAUTEs brown Ihem them in in butter, butter, taking taking care care that that they they keep keep their their brown pinkish pinkish colour. Drain. Toss Toss 12 truck thick strips of tfume truffie in the cooking butter, buttei Drain. so that they are barely cooked. Put these on the slices of so hare. ofhare. Pour little Madeira Madeira into into the and add add aa few Pour aa litlle the cooking pan pan and few tablespoons Demi-glace (se SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) based tablespoons Demi-glace sauce based on concentrated game stock. Pour over the pieces of hare. Plt6 ofhare. nr LIÈVRE rGvnn -- Bone aahare. Pâté of hare. pAr6 PÂTÉ DE hare. Set aside the breast meat, the filets mignonr mignons and and the the loins. loins. Remove the gristle gristJe from from these tbese parts parts and interlard interlard them them with with best best lardoons. lardoons. Season Season with with Spiced sa& salt (see (see SALT). SALT). Steep Steep in in a a brandy brandy marinade, of fine fine strips strips of fresh marinade, adding adding equrl equal quantities of ham (not (not smoked), fresh pork pork fat and quartered truffies. trumes. Make Make aa forcemeat with the rest rest of of the Ihe meat meat as as described described in the Game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCE MEAT). Rub the recipe for for Garne througb through aa sieve. Bind Bind with the the hare's hare's blood. blood. Grease Grease a a hinged hinged mould mould with butter. butter. Line Line with with pastry Pastry dough dough (see (see PASTRY). PASTRY). Cover Coyer the the dougb dough with with rhin thin slices of larding larding bacon. bacon. Line Line the the bottom botlom and and sides sides with with aa layer layer of of hare hare forcemeat. forcemeat. Alternate Alternate the the meats, meats, truffies, trumes. etc. etc. on this this foundafoundation tion of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Coyer with with a a layer layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Continue Continue to to fill fill the the mould mould with with alternate alternate layers layers of of meat meat and and forcemeat, forcemeat, finishing tinishing with of forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover with with aa thin thin slice sUce of of pork pork fat. fat. with aa layer layer of Put of rolled-out rolled-out pastry pastry on on top, top, pressing pressing the the edges edges of of Put aa layer layer of the the dough dough together together to to seal. seal. Flute Flute the the edges. edges. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with dough dough motifs motifs and and make make aa hole ho le in in the the middle middle to to allow allow the the steam steam to to escape escape during during baking. baking. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Bake in the Ihe oven, oyen, allowing allowing 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per peT 500 500 g.g. Bake in (l(l lb.) lb.) Leave Leave the the pdtC pâté to to cool cool in in the the mould. mould. When When itit isis cold cold pour pour aa few few tablespoons tahlespoons of of Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured meat meat jelly jelly into If the Ihe pdtd pâté is is to to be be kept kept for for any any length length of of time, time, into it. il. If jelly. substitute substitute aa mixture mixture of ofbutter butter and and lard lard for for the thejelly. Hare Harepdti pâté must must be be made made at at least least 24 24 houn hours before before serving. serving. Potted Pottedhare. hare. rrnnrNs TERRINEDE DELrtvRBLIÈVRE - Made Madefrom from strips stripsof ofhare, bare, porkfat,foie pork fat,foie gras, gras, trufres trumes and and hare hare stuffing, stuffing, in in the the same sameway way as asPotted Po lied&rc& duck (see (seeTERRINE). TERRINE). Roast Roastlegs legsofofhare. hare. curssEs CUISSESos DE rGvRE LIÈVREndrresRÔTIES - Remove Remove the the tendons tendons from from aa hare's hare's legs. legs. Stud Stud with with best best larding larding bacon bacon toto form form rosettes, rosettes, and and roast roast them. them. Serve Serve with with Poiyrade Poivrade sauce sauce

448 448

HASH HASH Crush the paws paws of of the hare hare and remove rem ove the the tendons. tendons. InterInterlard the fillets and legs with with best lardoons. lardoons. (7 oz.) g. (7 to this 200 g. Chop the liver, heart and lungs. Add Add ta g. (4 oz.) fresh pork fat, gras and fresh pork fat, 100 and 100 g. (4 raw goose./oie goosefoie gras 100 g. (4 oz.) bread dry, 1I tablespoon squeezed dry, bread soaked in stock and squeezed until tender tender and chopped onion cooked very slowly in butter butter until (5 oz.) garlic, 150 g. (5 150 g. very little left cool, aa very left to to cool, little pounded pounded garlic, parsley. Bind pinch of Bind this this of chopped parsley. chopped trufres trufHes and aa pinch Season weil. well. stuffing with the blood of the hare. hare. Season up the the skin skin so so as as to to Sew up mixture. Sew Stuff the hare with this mixture. Stuff in aa little little white white and truss the hare. Braise in hold the stuffing in and frequently. Brown Brown the the hare wine for about 2 hours, basting frequently. it. Add to the braising stock aa and untie it. in the oyen. oven. Drain and (see SA sauce (see SAUCE) based on few Demi-glace sauce UCE) based few tablespoons Demi-glace

(see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) and Chestnut Chestnut purie purée (see CHESTNUT). CHESTNUT). Ail recipes recipes for saddle saddle of of hare hare are suitable for the legs. legs. All Saddle of of hare. hare. nAnr,n RÂBLE pn DE lrivnn LIÈVRE - For For a baron baron of of hare hare the Saddte w hale body body of of the the hare hare from the the base base of of the the neck neck to the tail tail is whole

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used; but but for for the the saddle alone, alone, the the portion of of the the trunk used; wruch ends ends at the top top of of the thigh thigh is served. which is one of of the most most delicate parts of the hare. Before This is cooking it it remove all ail the thin membrane which covers the fiesh. flesh. pork fat or studded The saddle saddle is barded barded with with a thin slice slice of ofpork The with truffes. truffies. with served with Sadd le of of hare hare is is generally generally roasted roasted and and served Saddle (see Poivrade sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and Chestnut Chestnut purie purée (see Poivrade CHESTNUT), which which are served separately. separately. CHESTNUT), I-IivRE A l'aUemande. nAsLE RÂBLE oe DE LIÈVRE À L'ALLnL'ALLESaddle of hare à I'allemande. MANDE -- Interlard the saddle with best lardoons. Steep for 2 MANDE marinade (q.v.). hours in a raw marinade Dry the marinated vegetables vegetables in a a roasting pan. pan. Dry Put the marinated oven. When saddle of hare and lay it on top. Roast in aa hot oyen. saddle saddle is almost cooked, take take out the vegetables. Pour the the saddle pint, scant cup) marinade over over the the hare hare and dl. (i and add add 22 dl. marinade $ pint, cream. cream. squeeze sorne some lemon into serving dish, squeeze Place the saddle on serving pour it over the hare. hare. Serve Serve with the cream cream sauce, strain, and pour redcurrant jelly or unsweetened apple sauce. redcurrant pn LIÈVRE uivnr AU Saddle of hare nAsrs DE eu hare au au chambertin. chambertin. RÂBLE Saddle of oven, taking CHAMBERTIN -- Interlard the saddle. Roast in the oyen, cHAMBERTIN pinkish colour. care that it retains its pinkish Fry a slice of forceof bread and spread it with àd gratin game force(sa FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Lay the saddle on on top. top. Garnish meat (see with mushrooms cooked in belly of of in butter, butter, small strips of belly thick pork, pork, parboiled and fried frid in butter, and truffies cut into truck (se, SAUCE), to which strips. Mask with with Chambertin Chambertin sauce (see been added. wine, have been the pan juices, diluted with red wine, pe LIÈVRE Saddle of hare, roast. rSvRE RÔTI nOn -- Interlard Interlard the nAsr,n DE roast. RÂBLE saddle. Roast spit, for 18 l8 ta to 20 minutes, or on aa spit, Roast in aa hot oyen oven for allowing an extra 22 to to 55 minutes. Garnish witha lemon. Make Make of watercress and halfa lemon. bunch ofwatercress with a bunch aa border of alternate slices cut with with aa slices of lemon and beetroot cut fiuted thin or aa thin diluted cooking cooking juices or with the the diluted knife. Serve with fluted knife. Poivrade sauce (see SA UCE). SAUCE). Hare hare in in the the os LIÈVRE rItvRE - Made with with hare Hare soufflé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrr,6 DE (see SOUFFLÉ). same way as SOUFFLE). souffie (see as Chicken soufflé

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(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 concentrated game stock and (5 oz.) g. (5 or diced oz.) shredded or and add add 150 g. Armagnac. Armagnac. Strain, and the hare. truffes. Pour this this sauce s.uce over the truffies. in red wine. oftsn braised braised in This dish is often rdvnr ÉTOFFÉ frorse ÀA LA rA' perigurrdine (cold). LIÈVRE hare à la la périgourdine Stufred hare Stuffed pEnrcounorxn -- Bone aa hare, slitting slitting itit along the back before PÉRIGOURDINE Draw remains intact. intact. Draw drawing it, so that the skin of the belly remains drawing shoulders. it and cut off the legs and shoulders. Keep the and blood. blood. Keep heart, kidneys and the liver, liver, heart, Set aside aside the Set prevent itit from from tablespoon vinegar to prevent blood in aa bowl, with 1 tablespoon clotting. c1otting. some and shoulders, shoulders, sorne the thighs and the boned boned meat meat of the Using the Using pork fat, fat, make make aGame a Game forcemeat and pork veal, fresh fresh pork and lean veal, quarter of of (see FORCEMEAT). of its its weight weight of this aa quarter to this Add to FORCEMEAT). Add (see (see FORCEMEAT), from the the made from gratin forcemeat FORCEMEAT), made àd gratin forcemeat (see quantity of equal quantity of an equal of the hare with an liver, heart and kidneys of and 22 well. Add Add spices spices and Season weil. with 22 eggs. eggs. Season raw foie Bind with raw foie gras. Bind (3 tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons) brandy. tablespoons (3 tablespoons (see SALn and sprinkle sprinkle salt (see SALT) and Spiced salt hare with with Spiced Season the the hare Season top. In In the the on top. layer of of stuffing stuffing on Put aa layer little brandy. brandy. Put with with aa little veal of lean lean veal thin strips strips of lay alterna alternate stuffing lay middle of of the the stuffing middle te thin grat seasoned with seasoned with of foie thin strips strips of browned in butter, butter, thin browned in foie gras pork fat fat of pork lardoons of with brandy, brandy, lardoons spiced spiced salt salt and and moistened moistened with (or blanched with aa pieces of pork) and truffie. Coyer Cover with and pieces of trufHe. (or blanched salt salt pork) and stuffing. layers of meat and stuffing. of meat layer of Add further further layers layer of stuffing. stuffing. Add in aa c10th cloth sew itit up. up. Wrap Wrap itit in shape and and sew Fold the the hare hare into into shape Fold (q.v.). Cook in aa strong strong Cook in of aa ballottine ballottine (q.v.). and and tie tie itit in in the the shape shape of be should be This stock stock should Madeira. This game stock flavoured with with Madeira. game stock fiavoured the trimmings of of the prepared in bones and and trimmings the bones in advance, using the prepared advance, using (or bacon pork skin rinds) and and fresh pork skin (or bacon rinds) hare, knuckle ofveal, ofveal, fresh hare, aa knuckle foot. calf's foot. aa boned boned and and blanched blanched calf's gently for hours. When for about l! hours. When itit about I! hare very very gently Simmer Simmer the the hare put itit back in the it, then back in the cloth, cloth, then put is cooked, and unwrap unwrap it, is cooked, drain drain and Next day, day, unwrap unwrap weight. Next under aa weight. wrapping wrapping itit tightly. tightly. Cool Cool under jelly croûtons. jelly. Surround crofitons. with jelly Surround with the the hare. hare. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. p6rigourdine en cabessal or or chabessal. chabessal. m cabessal Stuffed hare à la la périgourdine Stufrd hare pfuicouRDINE EN EN CABESSAL, cABEssAL, CHABESSAL CHABESSAL LIÈVRE rrtvnn FARCI r,c,Rct ÀA LA PÉRIGOURDINE pork and and ham, harn" seasoned seasoned veal, fresh fresh pork Stuff a hare of veal, fillet of Stuffa hare with with fiUet garlic. Sew the skin. skin. pepper, spices, Sew up up the shallots and and garlic. with spices, shallots with salt, salt, pepper, into aa ring, ring, the the red wine. Tied into in red wine. Tied Bard hare and and braise braise in Bard the the hare (The cabessal was cabessal was hare essai or or chabessal. chabessal. (The to be be en en cab cabessal hare isis said said to heads to to wore on on their their heads the which women women wore folded ring ring of of c10th cloth which the folded jars of pails or support or jars of water.) water.) support pails garlic and and with garlic liver with the liver Bone Pound the hare. Pound Bone the the braised braised hare. little blood and and aa little blend Add the the hare's hare's blood the sauce. sauce. Add blend itit into into the vinegar. vinegar. popular inin preparing hare leveret isis popular This hare or or leveret of preparing This method method of region. Périgord, Aveyron region. and in in the the Aveyron P6rigord, and

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17th preparing hare for preparing hare ài la la royale royale I 7th century century terrine terrine for

Stuffed (P6rigord p6rigourdine or royale (Périgord or ài lala royale la périgourdine hare ài la Stuffd hare pfuicounplNE, ÀA LA cookery). LA, ROYALE RoYALE -u PÉRIGOURDINE, rGvnE FARCI renq ÀA LA cookery). LIÈvRE high-sounding ln the high-sounding this dish dish bears bears the region this In the the Périgord P6rigord region title royale. title of liivre àd la la royale. of lièvre When and set the blood blood and set itit hare, collect collect aU all the the hare, When drawing drawing the aside be used used later. later. which wiU will be the stuffing, stuffing, which aside ta to bind bind the

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DE MOUTON MouroN -- Mutton Mutton HARICOT rHmcor DE MUTTON. HARICOT HARICOT OF OF MUTTON. (See MUTTON.) potatoes. (See MUTTON.) stew and potatoes. turnips and stew made made with with turnips

HASH. made from from left-overs left-overs of of hash isis usually usually made HAcHIs -- A A hash HASH. HACHIS or shell-fish, shell-fish, poultry, fish fish or scraps pork, veal, veal, poultry, scraps of beef, mutton, of beef, mutton, pork, and prepared in in various various ways. ways. and isis prepared 449 M9

HASH HASH

nif themeat meat verysmall, small,rather ratherthan thanmince minceit.it.InIntrus thisway, way, Dice the willtaste taste better and look more appetising. French hashis ititwill better look more appetising. French hashes are usually usually blended blended with withwhite white ororbrown brownsauces. sauces.Hashes Hashes are made from left-overs of roast or pot-roasted meat must not made from left-overs of roast or meat must not boil after after the thesauce saucehas has been been added, but butshould shouldonly onlybe be boil wanned up upover overaalow low flame. flame. Hashes Hashes made madefrom from boiled boiledoror warmed braisedmeat meatshould shouldsimmer simmer on onthe thestove stovefor foraatime. time. braised Hashes are piledinside are piled insideaaborder border of ofDuchess Duchess pOlaloes potatoes(see (see Hashes POTATOES), orsprin~Jed sprinkled with withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andbrowned, browned, or served served in inaa border of pilaf or ofpilaf orrisotto. risotto. or Sometimes hash hash isis served servod in piedish inaapie garnish with dish as asaagamish with Sometimes hard-boiled, poached poachodor orcoddled coddled eggs. eggs. hard-boiled, Boitd beef beef bash hash1.I. HACHIS H,lcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF- - Dice Dice very veryfinely finely Boiled (18 oz., S.m g. (18 oz., 44 cups) boiled boiled beef beef scraps. Bind Bind with withH l| dl. dl. 500 Demi-glace sauce sauce (se S-eUCf), cover Q pint, 3 cup) Ueml--f!lI'lCe cover-and and bring to to the boil. Cook in in the the oven oven for 25 ?Sminutes. minutes. Stir Stir from from time to to time time and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons demi-glace demi-glaceifrfthe the time sauce appears appears too too truck. thick. sauce Boil€d beer beef hash haslr n. II. HACHIS H.lcnrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Slowly cook 22 Boi1ed (3 tablespoons) chopped onion tablespbons (3 onion inin 1I tat,les.poon tablespoon tablespoons butter until until very tender. Sprinkle with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon flour. butter Brown. Add Add 22 dl. (~ pint, scant scant cup) cup) veal veal stock, stock, season season and and $ pint, Brown. bring to to the the boil, boil, stirring stirring aIl all the the time. time. Simmer Simmer for for 15 15minutes. minutes. bring Dice the the boiled boiled beef beef very finely finely and ard add add to to the the mixture. mixture. Dice Proceed as as indicated indicated in previous recipe. in the previous Proceed proCtu?id beer beef hash ha$ 1.I. HACHIS nic.curs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF A L'INDIENNE r'rNorsNNE -- ProCurried ceed as as for for Roast Roast beef (see below). beef hash hash (see below). Bind Bind the the diced diced meat meat ceed with Curry (see, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve Serve in in aa border border of of rice. rice. with Serve with with curry sauce. Serve pr BOEUF Currid beef ha$ n. U. HACHIS HAcHrs DE noeuF ÀA L'INDIENNE I'TNoleNNE -- Cook Cook Curried (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped chopped onion onion in in 1I tablespoon tablespoon 22 tablespoons butter until until very very tender. tender. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 1I teaspoon teaspoon curry iurry butter po-wder and and 1I tabtespoon tablespoon flour. flour. Add ($ pint, Add2 pint, scant dl. (t scant cup) cup) powder 2 dl. white stock stock or or broth. broth. Mix Mix weIl. well. Cook Cook for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. white Add the the finely diced diced beef. beef. Serve Senre in in aa border border of of rice rice with with Add (se, SAUCE). Curry sauce sauce (see Beef haslr witb widr herbs. herbs. HACHIS HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEUF AUX Arlx FINES FrNEs HERBESHERBEs Proceod as as for for Roast (se below). Roast beef beef hash hash (see below). Just Just before Proceed serving sprinkle with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon of chopped parsley and and 1I serving sprinkle tablespoon chopped chervil. chervil. Boef hrsh i la soEUF À i LA HONGROISE HoNcRorsE -HACHIS DE BOEUF la hongroise. HAcHrs Proceed (see below). Bind Roast beef beef hash (see Bind the the diced Proceed as as for for Roast meat SAUCE). meat with with Hungariot sguce (see (see SA UCE). Bed DE BOEUF BoEUF À A L'ITALIENNE L'rr,q.Llsl.rNg -Beer hash bash ià I'italienne. HAcHrs HACHIS DE Proceod (see beJow). below). Bind with ltalian Proceed as as for for Roast Roast beef beef hash (see sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (se Be€f Beer hrsh basb ià la la languedocienne. languedocienne. HAcHrs HAGHIS os DE soruF BOEUF A À r.a LA LANGTJEDocTENNE (se Roast beef hash hash (see LANGUEDOCIENNE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Roast below). below). Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley parsley and a little grated garlic. garlic. Serve Serve on on a a layer of of sliced aubergines saut6ed sautéed in in oil oil or butter. butter. Smooth Smooth the surface of of the the hash. Surround with a very Tomato fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). Sprinkle with very thick thick Tomato breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cheese. chee se. Pour Pour melted mehed butter over over it it and brown. brown. Beef Beef hash hash ià Ia la lyonnaise. H.lcHrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A À ra LA ryoNLYONNAIsE NAISE -- Proceed Proceed as as for Beef Beefhash hash dcl la la languedocienne, languedocienne, binding binding the the diced diced meat meat with with Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with aa border border of ofDuchess Duchesspotatoes potatoes (see (see pOTATOES). POT A TOES). Decorate Decorate the the top with with friod fried onion onion rings. rings. Becf Beer ha$ bash ià la Parmentier. Pannentier. rrlc,cnrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF iÀ r-,c. LA pARPARMENTIER MENTIER -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Roast Roast beef beefhash hash (see (see below). below). Serve Serve in in large, large, partly partly scooped-out scooped-out baked baked potatoes. potatoes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter over; over; brown brown in in oven. oven. Beef Beerhash hasb with with poached eggs. HAcHrs HACHIS DE DE BoEUF BOEUF Ar.rx AUX oEUFs OEUFS pocsfsPOCHÉS - Proceed as as for for Boiledbeefhash beef hash II. Il. Garnish Garnishwith with well-drained weIl-drained poached poached eggs. eggs. IfIf desired, desired, cover cover with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (ser', (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

poloNArspolonrise.HACHIS Bedhash HAcHrsDE DEBOEUF BoEUFÀ ALA r-aPOLONAISE Boo bash à ilalapolonaise. Proceedasasfor forRoast (seebelow). Roastbeef beefhash hash(see below).Garnish Garnishwitb with Proceed poached eggsand andTomato Tomatosauce (seSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). poacbed ponruBcef hffih lah portugaise.HACHIS HAcHrsDE DEBOEUF BoEUFÀ ALA r.lPORTUBeer cArsn -Proceed Proceedasas for Roastbeefhash (seebelow). beef hash(see below).Bind Bindwith with GAISE(seeSAUCE). Tonutosauce sauce(see SAUCE). Tomato Coverthe thebottom bottomofofananovenproof ovenproofearthenware earthenwaredish dishwith Cover with slicesof oftomato tomatotossed tossedininbutter butterororoil. oil. Spreadtbe thebash hashover slices over thetomatoes. tomatoes.Cover Coverwith witha afurtber furtherlayer layer of tomatoescooked the cooked thesasame way.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andseason inintbe me way. seasonwith with garlic.Pour touchof ofgarlic. Pourmelted meltedbutter butterororoil oilover overthe aatouch thetop and topand brownininthe theoven. oven. brown Be€fbash hashwith potatoes. HACHIS wittpotatoes. HAcHrsDE DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Beef ENBORDURE BoRDUREProceed asasfor (seebelow). forRoast Roastbeefhash beef hash(see below). Proceed pOTAPiletbe hashininaaborder thebasb borderof ofDuchess Duchess pOlatoes potatoes(see (seePOT APile TOES). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs grated cbeese. breadcrumbsand andgrated cheese. Brush theborder borderwitb withbeaten pouron beatenegg, egg,pour onmehed meltedbutter butterand and brown. brown. Be€fhasb hsshwith with masbed potatoes.HACHIS mashod potatoes. Beer HAcHrs DE usBOEUF sotsuFÀALA r.A, prnfs DE poMMEs DE DEPOMMES DETERRE rERRE- Mix PURÉE Mix300 300g.g.(lI oz.) oz.)2± cups) etcups) ponto finely diced diced boiled boiled beef beefwith with 200 finely 200g.g.(7(7oz., oz.,scant scantcup) cup)Potato puree (see (see POT POTATOES). puree ATOES). Season. Season.Arrange Arrange ininaa buuered buttered ovenproof earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Cover ovenproof Cover with with aathin thin layerof ofthe the potatoes.Smooth potatoes. Smooth the the surface, surface, sprinkle witb with hr~·"rl{'rl1lrnl~" breadcrumbs and grated cheese, pour melted cheese, pour and melted butterover overand andbrown. brown. This bash hash can prepared ininthe can he be prepared me way the sa puree of same waywith with purée of white or or red red haricot haricot beans, white beans, lentils lentils or peas. orsplit split peas. Roast bOO beef basb. hash. HACHIS Roast HAcHrs DE DE BOEUF BoEuF - Dice Dioe the the beef beef very finely. Bind Bind with with boiling finely. boiling Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see, SAUCF). sauce (see Heat in in aa double double saucepan saucepan and Heat andserve semeininaa piedish. dish. porssoNsFish basb. hish. HACHIS HAcHrs DE - Use Fish DE POISSONS Use finely diced diccd piecesof of cooked fish fish (cod, turbot, cooked turbot brill, brill, sole sole or or salmon). salmon). Bindwith with vegetable-based Velouté, Velouti, Béchamel, Bichamel, or or any any other other sauce sauce suitable for fish (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fish basb hash is Fish is often used pastry boats, used as as aa filling filling for for pastry boats, large large or or (q.v.), tartlets, small vol-au-vent vol-au-vent (q.v.), small tartlets, etc. etc. porr, - Made ground gsme. HACHIS Hash Hash of of ground HAcHrs DE DE GlBIERS crBrERs DE DE POIL - Made from left-overs from left-overs ofbraised venison, venison, or or roast roast roebuck, roebuck, deer deer or or goat. Bind wild goat. wild Bind with with aa brown brown stock stock to to which which ESjrJa~~nole Espagnole game essence, sauce with sauce with game essence, Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sAuce or or n
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H'AZEL GROUSE HAZEL brown stock as described described in the recipes for beef hash. Poultry hash Creatn or basb ri à blanc bas Allemande, Bicharnel, Béchamel, Cream Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) added. added. It lt must must be be heated heated in a

remaining at 70°C. way, the temperature ternperature drops very slowly, remaining 70'C. (158'F.) even after five or six hours or, witb with the most up-to(l58°F.) date equipment" ev€n longer. In this this way, food can be cooked equipment, even without supervision and and without the use use of fuel without fuel once it has bee,n brought to the been brought tbe boil.

double saucepan. saucepan. Poultry hash, white or brown sauce is used, is bash, whether wbetber aa wbite often often scrved served with poached poached or coddled eggs. It lt can be used as a small vol-au-vent, a filling filling for for large large or Or small vol-au-vent, tartlets tartIets and and other pastry cases, cases, and also as as a a stuffing for artichoke articboke hearts or These are mushrooms. mushroorns. Tbese are sprinkld sprinkled with with breadcrumbs and browned, browned, and are served as a garnish gamish for main dishes. Sweetbread Sweetbread (veal or hmb) lamb) hash. HAcHIS HACHIS DE DE RIs RIS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AcNEAU sauce. D'AGNEAU - This can be made with a white or brown sauce. Dice the tbe sweetbreads sweetbreads very small and proceed proceed as as for veal veal or poultry poultry hash. hasb. Veal hash. HAcHIS of braised, HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU - Left-over pieces of stewed, stewed, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or roast roast veal veal can can be be prepared prepared in in a brown sauce sauce like like a beef beef hash or in a white sauce as below. Veat Veal hash hash ià I'allemande. l'allemande. HAcHIs HACHIS DE VEAU A À L'AITEMANDE L'ALLEMANDEDice the tbe veal very finely. finely. Bind with witb Allemande sauce (se, (see SAUCE). Heat in a double saucepan. saucepan. Serve Serve in in a pie pie dish disb or, ifif desired,in desired,in a pie crust crust or vol-au-vent. vol-au-vent. Vesl Veal ha$ hasb tà la bchamel. béchamel. n.lcnrs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A À r.l LA stcHAMEL BÉCHAMEL Proceed as for Yeal Veal hash dà l'allemande, using Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce Proceed (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Ved Veal hlsh hash with cream cream sruce. sauce. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU A À r.L LA cniim CRÈME Proceed as for for Veal hash d à I'allemande l'allemande (q.v.), (q.v.), using Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Verl Veal ha$ hash ià la Mornay. Mornay. HAcHIs HACHIS DE vEAU VEAU MoRN,r,v MORNAY - Bind the hash bash with witb Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve in a border border of Duchess potatoes with Mornay potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Cover Coyer with sauce (se (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese, cheese, pour pour on melted butter, and brown. meltod

}IAZEL also known known as as wood HAZEL GROUSFGROUSE. cELlNorrE GELINOTTE -- Bird also grouse and rufrod Hazelgrouse grouse ruffied grouse. Hazel grouse lives in woods. woods. There are two species, one a are a native of Europg Europe, the other of Asia. grouse, which The common is on hazel grouse, common hazel on sale sale in in France The which is during the winter months, is a about the size size of aa partbe win ter montbs, a bird bird about tridge, in colour, is tridge, whose is speckled whose plumage, reddish in speckled with brown, brown, black, white and grey.

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Hazel grouse

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grous€, which was once The hazel grouse, Tbe very common in France, once very especially especially in Alsace, the Ardennes and the Pyr6n6es, Pyrénées,is is rarer nowadays, and and the tbe greater number of hazel grouse grouse sold sold in France come from The best frorn Russia Russia and are frozen. Tbe come and are best come

Vologda, Archangel Arcbange! and Kazan. from Vologda" and Kazan. The meat meat is white and tender, but tastes tas tes rather strongly strongly of fir tir cones, which sorne find unpleasant. This flavour some people find can be made less strong by soaking the bird in milk for sorne some

HATEREAU HÂTEREAU -- Old French word word for little little balls balls of of pork liver, Iiver, similal similar to to gayettes gayelles (q.v.). Nowadays, Nowadays, this is the name given given to a a hot bot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or a light main course course of of small pieces of of food, dipped in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fried, fried, skewered skewered and and coated with with a

cooking. time before cooking. (q.v.) are All Ail the tbe recipes recipes given for partridge (q.v.) are suitable for hazel hazel grouse. grouse. grouse ià l'allemande. cELINorrE GELINOTIE À L'ALLEMANDE Hazel gnxrse A t'AtLHr,rANDE Truss Truss a hazel grouse. grouse. Season. Season. Brown Brown the bird bird in I1 tablespoon butter in a covered covered saucepan. When it is three-parts cooked, butter tbem into thin strips. Put drain, remove the breasts and cut them them back on the tbe bird, taking taking care to restore restore it to its original shape. shape. Cover Coyer the tbe hazel bazel grouse grouse with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed mixed with with sour sour cream. cream. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and pour Sprinkle with little melted melted butter. butter. Let Let itit brown brown aa little ~jttle in the tbe oven. oyen. Serve on a little Serve with witb Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Casserole of hazel hazel grorse grouse ià la la polonrise. polonaise. cELrNorrE GELINOTTE EN À r,c, LA poroNAls POLONAISE - Stuff the hazel bazel grouse with dà CASSEROLE A cAssERoLE gratin gameforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) flavoured flavoured with I1 gratin gmne forcemeat (see crusbed juniper juniper berries. Truss. Truss. Cook in butter in an or 2 crushed eartbenware casserole. After After removing removing the string, pour over over earthenware cup) game game stock or concentrated it 3 tablespoons (scant * .,rp) thickened veal stock and a little lemon juice. juice. Add browned browned thickened of freshly grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs melted butter with a handful of fried in it. Chaud-froid of of hazel hazel grorse. grouse. cELINorrE GELINOTTE EN EN cHAr.iDCHAUDChaud-froid FROID - Prepared in white or brown stock, stock, as as for ChaudFRoID p ar tr idge (see ofpartridge (see PA PARTRIDGE). oid of RTRIDGE). frfroid Hazel grqrse grouse Ià la crCme. crème. cELINorrE GELINOTTE A À ra, LA cntl,rs CRÈME - Wrap Ilazel larding bacon round round the hazel grouse grouse and truss it. To lessen lessen the taste taste of fir fir cones, cones, soak soak it it for for t1 hour hour in milk before the cooking. cooking. a flameBrown the bird in 1 tablespoon butter heated in a proof proof earthenware casserole. Put the casserole in the tbe oven, oyen, oyen (220"C., (220°C., 425°F, uncovered. Cook in a hot oven 425"F'., Gas Mark basting frequently, frequently, for about 18 minutes. 7), basting

sauce. sauce.

HATTELI,E HATTELLE or or HATTELE:TTE HÂTTELETTE _ - OId Old French French words for small birds, giblets, etc., roasted on on skewers. skewers. It is is derived from hdtelet hâtelet or attelet allelet (skewer). (skewer). HALJNCIL HAUNCH. cMIER CIMIER - Hindquarten Hindquarters of of the ox and of certain certain animaIs. This word is applied particularly particularly to deer. wild animals. For detailed recipes see ROEBUCK ROEBUCK or VENISON. VENISON. Tbe French also also use use the tbe words gigue gigue and cuissot to The and cuissot describe describe haunch baunch of game.

HAUT-BRION -- Bordeaux Bordeaux wine wine of of great great repute. repute~ The tne CMteau Château Haut-Brion, Haut-Brion, in in the the Pessac Pessac commune, commune, is is in in the Graves and and not the the M6doc Médoc district. district. According to the the list Iist drawn drawn up in 1855 by the tbe Bordeaux Bordeaux Chamber Chamber of of Commerce, Commerce, this is the only Graves wine given a 'first growth' classfficaclassification. The Tbe other first growth growtb Bordeaux Bordeaux wines are ChAteauChâteauLafite, Lafite, Chdteau-MargauL Château-Margaux, and Chdteau-Latour. Château-Latour.

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HA WFINCH. cRos.BEc GROS-BEC - European European seed-eating seed-eating bird. bird. It is HAWFINCH. known in France as as gros-bec, gros-bec, casse-noix casse-noix or or pinson pinson royal.lt royal. It is known usually roasted. roasted. usually HA WKSBILL TURTLE. cAREr CARET - Aquatic Aquatic tortoise, native HAWKSBTTT.TLJRTLE. wann American and and Indian seas. seas. It lt furnishes fumishes the of the wann tortoisesbell of commerce; its flesh fiesh is not worth valuable tortoiseshell eating but but its its eggs are highly higbly esteemed. eatmg HAY BOX BOX or or FUELLESS FUELLESS COOKER. COOKER. rr,r.lnmrn MARMITE Nonv6NORVÉHAY GIENNE - An An ordinary ordinary pot, when when its its contents contents have have beeF beep cIENNE

brought to the tbe boil, boil, is enclosed in an an insulating box, embrought bedded in materials materials which which are poor poor heat heat conductors. conductors. In this bedded 451

HAZELNUT HAZELNUT Remove the the bird from the bird from the casserole, casserole, take dake off offthe string and and Remove the string put itit back larding bacon, bacon, and and put back in in the the casserole. casserole. Pour Pour over over itit larding (6 tablespoons, dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant j-cup) fresh thick thick cream. cream. Complete Complete 1I dl. Icup) fresh the cooking cooking in in aa moderate (160"C., 325°F., moderate oyen oven (160°C., 325"F., Gas Mark Gas Mark the 3), basting basting frequently. frequently. 3), grouse. GELINOlTE Gtilled hareJ hazel grouse. cELrNorrE GRILLÉE cnr.r,r,6n -- Slit Slit the the hazel hazel Grilled grouse along along the the back. back. Open it and and remove remove most Open it most of of the the small small grouse bones. Gently Gently f1atten flatten the the bird, bird, season season itit with with salt salt and and bones. paprika, brush brush with with melted melted butter, butter, co cover all over over with with paprika, ver itit ail grated breadérumbs freshly grated grill on aa breadcrumbs and and cook cook under under the the grillon freshly gentle heat. heat. Brown Brown well well on on ail all sides. sides. gentle Garnish with with watercress watercress and and surround surround with with aa border border of of Garnish half-slices of gherkin. of lemon lemon and and slices slices of of gherkin. half-slices (see BUTIER, Serve either either with with Maftre Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel buller butter (see BUTTER, Serve (see SAUCE) Compound bUl/ers), butters), with Diable sauce with Diable sauce (see SAUCE) or or with with Compound grilled poultry poultry and any sauce sauce suit suitable for grilled and wildfowl. wildfowl. any able for grouse ili la Hazel grouse la hongroise. hongroise. GELINOTTE cELrNorrE À A LA r,a HONGROISE noNcnorsE -Hazel (3 tablespoons) Cook22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) ehopped chopped onion seasoned seasoned Cook paprika in grouse in with paprika in butter. butter. Put Fut the the trussed trussed hazel hazel grouse in aa with casserole with with the the onion. onion. Cook gentle heat. Cook in in the the oyen oven in in gentle casserole When the the bird is almost bird is almost cooked, cooked, remove put it remove the the string string and and put it When pouring back in in the the casserole, casserole, pou (5 tableover it it 44 tablespoons tablespoons (5 back ring over paprika. Complete the cooking, spoons) cream. cream. Season Season with with paprika. spoons) basting the the bird bird frequently frequently with with the cream. basting p.lrN DE grouse loar. Hrzel grouse prepared loaf. PAIN DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE -- This This is is prepared Hazel like game loa!). Partridge loaf(see loaf (see LOA LOAVES, Winged game loaJ). like Partridge VES, Winged grouse mousse, Hazel grouse mousse, hot hot or cold. cold. MOUSSE uoussn DE DE GELINOTTE GELrNorrE -Hazel Made from grouse in fillets of hazel grouse of hazel in the the sa same as Quai! Made from flUets me way as Quail (see QlJAIL). mousse (see mousse QUAIL). grouse and Plt6 ofhazel potted hazel grouse. PÂTÉ, ofhezel grouse hazel grouse_ and potted rA16, TERRlNE TERRTNE Pâté grouse or potted DE GELINorty -- Pâtés Pdtds of potted hazel grouse grouse of hazel DE GELINOTTE hazel grouse prepared in are prepared in the sa same as pdtds of partridge and potted are me way as pâtés ofpartridge potted partridges (see (see PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). partridges grouse. GELINOTTE Roast hazel cELrNorrE RÔTIE n6fls -- Wrap in Roast bazel grouse. Wrap the bird bird in larding bacon and truss. Cook in oven for 15 to larding bacon and truss. Cook in aa hot hot oyen for 15 to 18 minutes, on the the spit spit for for 18 18 to 20 minutes. Add minutes, and and on to 20 Add aa little little pan to water roasting pan water to to the the roasting to make make aa gravy. gravy. Serve with with the bird. bird. In England, and potato ln England, bread bread sauce, fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and potato crisps are usually game. crisps are usually served served with with this this game. Selmi of sALMrs Salmi of hazel ba:rel gouse. grouse. cELrNorrE GELlNOTfE EN EN SALMIS - Prepared in in the of woodcock (see same way as Salmi ofwoodcock (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). the same SuprGmes supRExvrEs DE Suprêmes of of hazel hazel grouse. grouse. SUPR.!lMES DE cELrNorrE GELINOTTE - Remove move the the breasts !,;reasls from from an an uncooked hazel grouse. grousc. Trim Trim and bone bone them. them. Flatten Flatten them them carefully, carefully, season with with salt sali and pepper, pepper, and and cook cook in in butter. buller. Lay them on a dish, garnish garnish as indicated the appropriate appropriate recipe, recipe, and and serve serve with with the indicated in in the sauce sauce recommended. recommended. All Ali recipes recipes given given for for cooking cooking and and serving serving supr€mes suprêmes of of chicken chicken and and game game birds birds are are suitable for for suprAmes suprêmes of of hazel hazel grouse. grouse.

HAZELNUT. HAZELNUf.

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NoTSETTE NOISETTE -

inhabitants of of inhabitants of the the market market town town of Lern6. In In almost of Lerné. almost ail the of all the houses there there was was an an oyen oven to to cook cook the the hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes. Sorne houses Some of of going back these ovens, ovens, hewn hewn in in the the rocks, rocks, still still exist, exist, going to the these back to the eleventh eentury. century. eleventh The fashion fashion for for Lerné Lern6 hearth-cakes, hearth-cakes, of peasants of which which the the peasants The from Chinonais Chinonais were were so so fond, fond, continued continued until the the end of the the end of from eighteenth century. century. eighteenth published an E. Johanneau, Johanneau, who who published edition of of the an edition the works works of E. of Rabelais with with intcrcsting interesting commentaries, commentaries, tells of his tells of his trip trip to to Rabelais Lern6 in in September September 1821. 1821. Lerné given'Galettes, In this village village he he was was given hearth-cakes, called hearth-cakes, ln 'Ga/ettes, called have aa high reputation part of reputation in in this this part of the country.' country.' which have Since 1821, 1821, the the trade trade in in these these cakes cakes has has bec become negligible Since orne negligible at Lerné. Lern6, and and soon soon only only their memory will remain. Since at Since they they have fallen fallen into into such such undeserved undeserved disfavour, disfavour, itit is is weil have well to to what Rabelais Rabelais said about about them: them: recall what 'Notez que que cc'est viande à/este. cileste, manger manger àd déjeusner, dijeusner, 'Notez 'est viande r aisins avec av e c fouache raisins fouac he frais fr ai s che.' 'It isis heavenly heavenly fare fare to grapes and to lunch lunch on on grapes and fresh-baked 'lt hearth-cakes.'' hearth-cakes. Hearth-cakes are still made in the Auvergne, but in quite quite aa different way from these these famous hearth-cakes. hearth-cakes. difrerent Auv ergne hearth-cakes. FouAcEs D'AUVERGNE-Ingredients. hear t h-cakes. FOUACES D'AtrvrncNn - /ng redient s. Auvergne (18 oz., 4! g. (18 (a oz., 1 4| eups) cups) flour, 100 g. (4 butter, 15 l5 g. 500 g. $ cup) butter, yeast, 33 eggs, oz.) yeast, glass Cognac, eggs, aa small small glass Cognac, aa few few drops (:~ G oz.) orange-flower water, 1 I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant:l: scant I cup) milk. orange-flower ingredients together in a bowl. Leave for all ingredients Method. Work ail Set out like aa crown on buttered paper and and brush 12 hours. Set yolk of egg. egg. Sake Bake in moderate oyen. oven. with yolk

HEDGEHOG. HÉRISSON nfnrssoN -- Insect-eating marnrnal, mammal, regarded regarded HEDGEHOG. good to eaL by sorne some people eat. people as very good

IIELDER BYGONE DA DAYS. HELDER -- See RESTAURANTS RESTA lJRANTS OF BYGONE YS.

IIELVELLE Type of grows in of fungus which HELVELLE -- Type whieh grows in Europe Europe in or in upland woods at the base of trees, especidamp grass, or ally fir fir trees. trees. Most of helvelle areedible. They are sometimes Most types of he/velle are edible. They sometimes called monks' The best of thern monks' morels, morels, baby baby morels. morels. The best of them is is the crinkled helvelle,which crinkled helvelle, which tastes tastes a little little like like the true morel. HEMIOIYE. HEMIONE. t$utoxnHÉMIONE -~ Wild animal found in Asia, akin to the donkey donkey and horse. horse. For suitable recipes, see DONKEY, DONKEY. HORSE. HORSE.

IIEMLOCK. HEMLOCK.

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CIGUE of a CIGUË - Name Name of a number number of poisonous poisonous plants of of the Umbelliferae family. The The poisonous poisonous qualities qualities of some sorne of of these these plants have been been greatly greatly exaggerated. exaggerated. The great hemlock (which might be confusod confused with parsley) is in fact It seems seems improbable that that Socrates Socrates fact hardly poisonous. It should have been been poisoned with the the juice juice of of this plant plant alone. alone. The The little liule hemlock hem/ock is is distinguished distinguished from from parsley parsley and chervil, ehervil. with which it il could be confusod, confused, by its thicker and larger larger leaves Ieaves which are marbled marbled with black black or violet on the the lower side and and on on the edges, edges, and and particularly particularly by by the the unpleasant smell smell which which is is released reJeased whe,n when the the leaves leaves are rubbed. rubbed. Some Sorne poisonous poisonous effects effects are attributed to to it, it. but but as with wilh the preceding preceding species, species, its its poisonous poisonous qualities qualities are are exaggerated. exaggerated.

Fruit Fruit of of the the hazelnut hazelnut or or cobnut cobnut

bush, bush, which which grows grows all ail over over Europe. Europe. This This nut nut is is rich ri ch in in oil oil and

pleasant pleasant to to taste. taste. Hazelnuts Hazelnuts are are used used in in confectionery. confectionery. Cultivated Cultivated hazelnuts hazelnuts are are called ca lied filberts. fllberts. Hazelnut Hazelnut butter bul/er -- See See BUT[EF., BUTIER, Compound Compound butters. bul/ers.

IIEADY. HEADY. cAprrrr,rx CAPITEUX - Applied Applied to to wines wines which which go go to to one's one's

IIERIBEIYNET. HERB-BENNET. nsNolrE BENOiTE -- The roots roots of this this plant, plant, which which gives out a smell of of cloves, cloyes. possess possess stimulating and tonic tonie gives out properties. properties. Its Its yellow yellow leaves, leaves, picked picked before before the the appearance appearance of of the the flowers, are sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in salad. salado flowers, are

head, head, that that is, is. wines wines which which are are rich ri ch in in alcohol. alcohol.

IIEART. HEART. coEr.rRCOEUR - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARlETY MEATS. MEATS. IIBARTH-CAKE. HEARTH-CAKE. rou,c,cp-Old FOUACE - Old form fonn of of pastry pastry hkeagalette like a galette of of fine fine wheaten wheaten flour. flour. It It is is made made of of unleavened unleavened dough dough and and

HERB-M. HERB-IVY. IvE IVE --

was was originally originally baked baked under under the the ashes ashes in in the the hearth. hearth. HearthHearthcake cake isis made made in in all ail the the provinces provinces of of France. France. Hearth-cake Hearth-cake makers makers from from Lern6 Lerné have have acquired acquired aa universal uruversal

Species Species of of chive, chive, used used

in the the flavouring flavouring of of

salads salads and and sauces. sauces.

HERBS. HERBS. nrnsEs-A HERBES- A large large number nurnber of of aromatic aromatic plants plants used used in in the kitchen come come under under the the general general heading heading of of herbs. herbs. the kitchen Among Among the the most most common corn mon are are chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon. chives chives and and

reputation, reputation, thanks thanks to to the the novel novel Gargantua.In Gargantua. In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century the the guild guild of of hearth-cake hearth-cake makers makcrs consisted consisted largely largely 452

HERRING HERRING parsley. parsley. Herbs Herbs are are also also usod used as as trimmings trimmings in in salads. salads. (See (See AROMATIC AROMATIC PLANTS, PLANTS, FINES FINES HERBES.) HERBES.) Herb Herbbroth. broth. PoTAGE POTAGE AI-rx AUX HERBEs HERBES -- Refreshing Refreshing soup soup made made with with leeks leeks and and pot pot herbs. herbs. (See (See SOUPS.) SOUPS.) Pot Pot vegetables vegetables or'herbs'. or 'herbs'. Hn'BEs HERBES poucinrs POTAGÈRES -- Generally, Generally, six six vegetables vegetables only only are are included included among among the the pot pot herbs. herbs. They They are are orach orach (rarely (rarely found), found), spinach, spinach, lettuce, lettuce, sorrel, sorrel, seakaleseakalebeet beet and and purslane. purslane. All Ali these these vegetables vegetables are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of of soups soups and and broths, broths, but but this this list list isis aa somewhat somewhat irbitrary arbitrary selection, selection, as as there there are are many many other other vegetables vegetables equally equally suitable for for the the pot. pot. -Turtlesuitable Turtle herbs.I{ERBESA herbs. HERBES À ToRTLJETORTUE - Mixture Mixture of ofaromatic aromatic herbs herbs of of which which the the main main ones ones are are basil, basil, marjoram, marjoram, savory savory and and thyme. thyme. These These herbs herbs are are used used in in the the flavouring flavouring of of turtle turtle soup, soup, and and also in in turtle turtle sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Tortue Tortue sauce) sauce) which which isis also served served with with calf's calf's head. head. nDnnHÈRE - nrench French term term for for aa stag stag between between eighteen eighteen months months and and two two years years old, old, from from the the time time bumps bumps appear appear on on its its forehead forehead to to the the time time when when the the antlers are are fully fully formed. fonned.

waters, or the polar polar seas seas to to the the French French Atlantic Atlantic coastal coastal waters, or the shoals. Channel, Channel, where where they they congregate congregate in in immense immense shoals. from Calais to The Theherring herringfisheries fisheries ininthe theChannel Channel extend extend from Calais to lasts from the the the mouth mouth of of the the Orne. Orne. The The fishing fishing season season lasts from the Boulogne can middle middle of of October October to to the the end end of of December. December. Boulogne can herring industry. claim claim to to be be the the real real centre centre of ofthe the French French herring industry. flavoured of The Thefresh fresh herring herringisis among among the themost most delicately de!icately flavoured of ways. fish. fish. ItIt can can be be cooked cooked in in aa great great many many different different ways.

HERMETICAL HERMETICAL SEALING. SEALlNG. nnnufrtQun HERMÉTIQUE - Whe'n When a a lid lid or or stopper stopper of a container fits fits so exactly that that the the container container is is rendired rendered airtight, airtight, it it is is said said to to be be hermetically hennetically sealed. sealed. Casseroles and and saucepans saucepans can can be made almost almost airtight airtight by by Casseroles

Herrings

us,ing using flour-and-water flour-and-water paste paste to to seal seal them. them.

_ SEE HERMITAGE WINE WlNESee ERMITAGE. ERMITAGE. HERMITAGE This shellfish BERNARD-L'ERMITE HERMIT CRAB. CRAB. BERNARD-L'ERMITE - This shellfish has has IIDRMIT characteristic. Nature one particularly one particularly interesting interesting characteristic. Nature having having

Cut them of freshfish. prepare herrings How to How to prepare herrings -- Dressing Dressing of fresh fish. Cut them roes. Scale, wash soft roes. and soft gills, leaving leaving the the gills, through through the the hard hard and Scale, wash are which they way in the way According to dry thoroughly. thoroughly. According and dry and to 1:he in which they are sides, fillet thern or, or sides, the back along the them along slit them cooked, slit to to be be cooked, back or fillet them or, grilled, leave them whole. or grilled, poached, braised braised or to be be poached, are to if they are ifthey leave them whole. as they are. them as or fry fry them Grill or bloaters. Grill and bloaters. Kippers and Kippers they are. salt, soak them the salt, remove the To remOve them. To Fillet them. Salt herrings. herrings. Fillet Salt soak them parts of and water. Drain, of milk milk and of equal equal parts mixture of or aa mixture in milk milk or in water. Drain, recipe. to the according and cook them, and cook according to the recipe. dry and and trim trim them, dry if Soak, if thern. Soak, trim them. and trim skin and Fillet, skin herrings. Fillet, Smoked herrings. Smoked to the recipe. according salt. Cook remove to necessary, necessary, to remove salt. Cook according to the recipe. FRAIsH.,msxcs FRAISHERRINGS. HARENGS FRESH HERRINGS. FRESH HARENcS cntr,lfs A rA oIlsL"E gdilcd henings Devilled Devilled grilled herrings. HARENGS GRILLFs À LA DIABLE Season and coat them and sides. sides. Season back and along back heriings along the herrings Slit the Slit and coat them and oil, and breadcrumbs and white breadcrumbs with white Sprinkle with mustard. with mus with tard. Sprinkle oil, and grill. the grill. under the slowly under cook slowly cook (see SAUCE)' sauce or Ravigote Ravigote sauce sauce or Mustard sauce wiih Mustard Serve with (see SAUCE). Serve

just round middle, round the negleited neglected to give it a hard shell except just the middle, shells of of into shells it creeps creeps into its enemies enemies it from its itself from to protect itself to rightful owner. molluscs, abandoned by the rightful

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Hermit crab crab Herooit

i

pn nmsNcs

FILETs I'rnglaisc' FILETS herrings à l'anglaise. of herrings Fillets of Fillets DE HARENGS À them in egg Dip them herrings. Dip the herrings. trim the and trim Fillet and L'ANGLAIs -- Fillet L'ANGLAISE in egg fat. Serve Serve with in boiling deep-fry and deep-fry in boiling fat. breadcrumbs and and breadcrumbs and with butters) Compound butters) (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butter (see d'h6tel butter Maitre d'hôtel Maitre roes. soft roes. mashed, soft boiled, mashed, with boiled, mixed with mixed herrings along the herrings Slash the FRrrs -- Slash HARENcs FRITS herringp. HARENGS Frierl herrings. Fried along in boiling deep-fry in and deep-fry flour and and flour milk and them inin milk Dip them the sides. sides. Dip the boi!ing and salt with Season with salt and cloth.Season dry inin aa clotho anddry them, and Drain them, fat. Drain fat. lemons. quartered parsley and fried garnish with gamish with fried parsley and quartered lemons. Cut, scale and dry the cnIr,r,6sHARENcS GRILLÉS herrings. HARENGS Grilled berrings. Grilled - Cut, scale and dry the melted oil oror melted with oil them with Coat them sides. Coat the sides. Slash the herrings. Slash herrings. grill. Serve Serve with the grill. under the slowly under and cook cook slowly butter. Season Season and butter. with butters). (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter Maitre sauce suitable for other sauce (seSAUCE) anyother SAUCE)ororany sauce (see Mustard sauce Mustard suitable for grilledfish. fish. grilled nourn*ctnn A u' rnnrNcs boulangdre.HARENGS À LA BOULANGÈRE Herringsà lalaboulangère. Herrings with liberally with dishliberally earthenwaredish flameproofearthenware ovalflameproof anoval Greasean Grease

crustacean this crustacean about this writing about the eider, elder, writing Dumas the Alexander Dumas Alexander had who had Creator, who says'the caisine, says de lala cuisine, intnhis his Dictionnaire 'the Creator, Dictiomaire de or became became disturbed, or was disturbed, lobster, was asaa lobster, him as started to dress dress him started to job, and him finished hirn and finished the job, of the middle of the middle in the absent-minded absent-minded in asaa slug. slug. dressed dressed as are which are body which parts of its body of its protect those those parts so, to to protect 'And 'And so, which shellwhich sees aashell asilit sees assoon soonas tempting, as so tempting, and so vulnerable vulnerable and proceeds to to take take and proceeds shell and of the the shell ownerof the owner eats the fits itssize, size, itit eats fits its warm.' still wann.' place while while itit isisstlIJ its its place asshrimps shrimps ways as sameways thesame cooked inin the becooked can be Hennit Hermit crabs crabscao cookedinin shell, itit isiscooked the shell, of the out of takenout (q.v.). Having Having been beentaken (q.v.). bay and bay thyme and withthyme (q.v.) flavoured flavoured with salted court-bouillon (q.v.) iitteOcourt-bouillon water. seawater. cookedininsea becooked canalso also be leaf. leaf. ItItcan sprinkle crab,sprinkle hermitcrab, thehennit cleanedthe having cleaned afterhaving One also,after Onecan canalso, the underthe shell under borrowed shell itsborrowed cookititininits andcook itit with butter and with butter coals. hotcoals. grill,ororbake onhot bakeititon grill,

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sprinklewith salt. andsprinkle dishand thedish herringsininthe Lay66herrings butter.Lay butter. chopped potatoesand and1I chopped slicedpotatoes thinly sliced with22thinly Surround with Surround butter. cookedininbutter. lightlycooked havebeen beenlightly whichhave onion, which onion, and powdered bay thymeand pepper, aa!ittle littlethyme salt,pepper, withsalt, Seasonwith Season powdered bay the dish' Add overthe butter melted tablespoons 2 to 3 leaf. Pour leaf. Pour 2 to 3 tablespoons melted butter over dish. Add the cookininthe andcook boiland theboil Bringtotothe cover. Bring water enoughwa enough ter totocover.

withbluish bluish Fishwith hening. Fish commonherring. HARENG- -the HERRING. HARENG HERRING. the common belly. andbelly. sidesand andsilvery silverysides alongits itsback backand scalesalong scales proareproNorthSea, Sea,are theNorth foundininthe arefound Thesefish, fish,which whichare These fromthe the migratefrom year,ininMarch, theymigrate Marclr, they Everyyear, fertile. Every digiously fertile. digiously 453 453

salt.

HERRING oven, basting basting from from time time tato time. time.Sprinkle Sprinkle with withcnopped chopped oven, parslry andserve serveininthe thecooking cooking dish. dish. parsley and proceed Hetrings lii Lalameunière. meuni&re. HA.RENGS Hlxsrrcs ÀALA u MEUNIÈRE uruurtnr -- Proceed Herrings as for Fira d la rneunidre (see FERA). as for Féra li la meunière (see FÉRA). Herrings inir white white wine. wine. HARENGS nenrNcs ÉTUVÉS 6ruves AU AUVIN vrN BLANC BLANcCut the herrings into into thick thick slices slics and and put them thern ininaa buttered buttered pan. Season with salt. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) pan. Season salt. Moisten with G pint, seant Cl.lp) white wine, wine, seaSOn season with salt and pepper. Dot with butter cut white wIth salt and pepper. Dot with butter cut pieces. Bring to the boil over a high flame. Cover, into small small pieces. into ta the boil (}ver a high ftame. Cover, and simmer simmer for for 88 to to l0 minutes. minutes. and Drain the herrings, herrings, and place on and place on aa dish. dish. SÎmmer Simmer the the Drain the cooking liquor to to evaporale evaporate sorne some of of the the liqoid, liquid, add add aa liule little cao king Iiquor butter, and pour over and pour the fish. over the fish. butter, Marinade of of fresh freCr herrings (hors-drcuvre). HARENGS HARENGs FRAIS FRArs Marinade uenrN6s Steep 12 for 66 hours houn and and MARINÉS -- Steep 12 soft-roed herrings in salt for dry with with aa cloth. cloth. Put hrt aa layer layer of of finely sliced sliced on onions and dry ions and carrots in in aa flameproof flameproof earthenware earthenware dÎsh dish with with sprigs sprigs of of carrots parsley and thyme, I bay leaf, a few peppercorns and i or Z and thyme, leaf. a few peppercorns and 1 Or 2 cloves. Lay the herrings in the dish. the herrings the dish. Pour over over aa mixture mixture of parts of of equal equal parts of white white wine wine and and Pour put another vinegar, which which shou!d quite caver should not not ql.lite cover the the fish. fish. Put another vinegar, layer of of sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots carrots on on top. Cover Cover the the dish dish with with oiled paper. Bring ta to the the bail. boil. When When the liquid liquid isis bubbling, bubbling, cover tlre dish and simmer simmer slowly slowly for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. caver kave the the herrings herrings ta to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Leave Sarted herrings à la Ia lyonmise. HARENGS TTARENGs SAUrtS sAUTfs LYONLyoNSautéed NArsE Slash the herrinp along the the sides... sides. SeaSQn Scaso.q and and dip dip in in NAISE -- Slash the ffour. Sauté Saut6 them them on on one one side side in butter. butter. Tum Tum tbe the herrings herrings flour. over and and add add 33 ta to 44 tablespoons tablespoons finely finely chopped chopped anions, onions, over previousty frid in in butter. butter. previously lightly fried Finish cooking the the anions onions and and herrÎngs herrings together and and then then Finish put the herrings herrings in aa dish. dish. Pour Pour the the butter butter and onÎons onions over. over. put the Sprinkle wilh parsley. Pour with chopped chopped parsley. tablespoon ofvinegar of vinegar Sprinkle Pour!I tablespool'l into and heat heat in over the fish. ioto thepan the and in aa little little butter. butter. Pour Pour this this over the fish. Soft nres. LArrANcEs Soft herring rots. LAITANCES DE DE HARENcs HARENGS - Remove Remove the the soft for soft roa roes from from fresh fresh [s11ings. Use Use any any resipe rec1pe indicated indicated for (see SOFT ROES). carp carp soft soft roes roes (see SOFT

Smokedherrings herringsare are processod in inthe the following following way: way: Smoked The herrings herrings are are salted toto aa grealer greater or lesser degree or lesser degree The pickled according ta to the the type type of of smoked smoked herring herring required. required. Piekled aecording herrings must qmohed herrings must he be salted salted for for atat least leasteight eight days. smoked Slightly salted salted or or mild mild smoked smoked herrings herrings are are made from fresh made from Slightly herrings salted salted for for twenty-four twenty-four ta to forty-eight forty-eight hours. hours. Bloaters Bloaters herrings aresalted salted for for aafew few hours hours only. only. are Once they they are are salted. salted, the the herrings herrings are are strung strung on on rads rods Once threadod through through their their gills, and put to and are are put to drain drain on on trolleys trolleys threaded or racks, racks, then then set set up in the smoking up in smoking chimneys. chimneys. In In modem modern or smokeries, the the racks racks are are fitted fitted into into the the chimney, chimney, thus thus avoidavoidsrnokeries, great deal ing aa great deal of of handlîng. handling. ing When the the herrings herrings are are in in the the chimney, aa beechwood beechwood fire fire isis Wheu lit. This produces aa powerful This produces powerful draught, which which dries dries the lit. the herrings, and and at at the the same same time time draws draws offany excess excess oil. oil. Next, Next, herrings, the fire fire isis damped damped with with beech beech sawdust sawdust and and chips. This This the causes the the fire fir€ to to send send off off aa dense dense smoke smoke which which smokes the the causes herrings and and gives them them theu their special special flavour. flavour. When- the the herrings have have been been sufficiently sufficiently smoked, smoked, they they are are removed from the chÎmney shimasy and and taken taken to to the the smokery r-oi"ry worksheds, where girls sort grade them, sort and and grade them, and and crate crate the the sound ones "'''''-'-'''''''''1'> according ta to size quality. size and and qualÎty. Generally, very large herrings are are crated crated in in twenties, twenties, weighing from 4 to 5 kg. (Sf to lb.) according according to to stason. weighing season. lb.) Medium herrings herrings are are packed in batches batches of of twenty-five. twenty-five, Medium werghing from from 3t 3f ta to 44 kg. (7f; to 8l lb.) Small Small herrings herrittgs are weighing are packed iu also paeked in batches batches of twenty,five and weigh from from 33 ta to also ke.(61 to 7l1b.). 7i lb.). Smoked Smoked herrings are packed in are alJo packed in 3! kg. (61: to wooden barrels which hold hold from from si.xty sixty to to aa hundred hundred fish, fish, wooden barrels whieh according to to size. according Bloaters are are made made from from herrings which are very slightly Bloaters salted and smoked. smoked. They They do not keep for any length of time, salted and should be and should he eaten without without delay, like fresh fish. Kippers are lightly smoked smoked herrings slit from from top top to Kippers are bottom become havebecome bottom and and opened out. In recent years, kippers have very very popular popular in France. Fillets Fillets of of fresh fresb and a nd salt herring herring are are very very much sought sought after. arter. Skilled of the herring, eut off off the the head head and aod tail tail of herring, slit it it Skilled girls cut open, bone and and skin skin it. it. In ln this trus way fillets flllets are are obtained obtained of of which every part part can can be eaten, and there is no !JO waste. 2W 200 g. (7 oz.) of of f,llets are packed packed in in little Iiule wooden boxes, or or parcels parcels of I kg. (2+ lb.) of Oi-Ib.) of fillets flilets are are made made up. Iridr smoked smoked herings. HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs SAURS A À L'rRrAwpArsE L'IRLANDAISE Wash Wash and and dry dry the the herrings. Cut Cut offthe off the heads. Split Split the the fish fisb in in half half lengthwise lengthwise and and spread them them out out flat fiat in in aa deep deep dish. dish. Cover Cover them them with with whisky whisky and set set light light to to them. them. When When the tbe whisky whisky has has all aIl burnt bumt away and and the the flame Bame extinguished, extinguished, the the herrings herrings are ready for for eating. Smoked fillets flUets of herdng in in oil. oU. FrLErs flLETS DE DE HARENGs HARENGS sArJRs SAURS uexrNfsA L'HUILE- Fillet and and trfin24 trim 24 smoked smoked herrings. herrings. Soak Soale MARINÉS À r'nurt,sthern them in in milk milk for2 for 2 hours hours to to remove remove salt. salt. Drain, Drain, and and dry dry thern them in in aa cloth. c1oth. Put Put them them in in aa pie dish dish in in layers, layers, with with alternate alterna te layers layers of finely chopped onions, sprigs sprigs of thyme and and brokenbrokenup up bay bay leaves. Jeaves. Place the soft soft and aod hard bard roes roes ofthe herrings herrings on on top. Cover with olive Coverwith olive oil, oil, and and leave leave them them to ta soak soak for for24 24 hours. bours. Smoked filleb flUets of ofherring herring witb witb soft soft roes. roes. FrLBrs BLeTS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAURs SAURS Aux AUX LATTANCES LAlTANCES- Fillet Fillet several several smoked, smoked, soft-roed soft-roed herrings. herrings. Remove Remove the the skin, skin, and and bone bone them them as as completely as as possible. possible. Cut Cut each each fillet fi.llet into ioto strips. strips. Put Put them them in in aa pan pan with enough enougb milk milk almost almost to to cover cover them. them. Leave Leave to ta soak soak for for 30 30 minutes, minutes, or or longer longer ififthe the herrings are very salty. salty. Rub Rub the thesoft soft roes roes through throughaa sieve, collecting the the pur6e in in aa bowl bowl underneath. underneath. Add Add Il teaspoon teaspoon mustard, I dl. (6 tabletable-spoons, spoons, scant seantf cup) cup)oil oil (stirring (stirringitit in in aa little little at ataa time), time), and and aa little little vinegar. Add Add further further seasoning seasoningififnecessary. necessary. Drain Drain the fillets tillets and and dry dry them them in inaa cloth. clotho Arrange Arrange them them in in hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dishes. dishes. Pour Pour the the soft soft roe roe sauce sauce over over them tbem and and sprinkle sprinlelewith withqhopped choppe
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SALT HERRINGS. HARE.NGS selts SALT HERRINGS. nenrucs SALÉS - In ln the the Boulogne Boulogne industry herrings are Fhiog fishil1g industry trerrings are either either salted salted at at sea sea or or in in port. port. Salt_ herrings are processed industrially by the following Salt berrings are processed industrially by the fol1owing

methods: methods: When When the the Boulogne .JjOIJlOjgoe herring fleet trawls in the North Sea f,rqrn June to October, the trawlers are at sea for long periods from June to are at sea for long periods at a tine and the herrings are salted on board as soon as thev at a time and the herrings are salted on board as soon as they are caught. They are put down with alternate layers of sali, are caughl. They are put down with alternate layers of salt, in barrels which are then hermetically sealed. in barrels which are then hermetically sealed. Fishing vessels which operate in the pas-de-Calais and the vessels which operate in the Pas-de-Calais and the Channel pofts put into port each day as soon as the nets are ports put into port eaeh day as soon as the nets are hauled in. The fish is transported from the boat to the salting hauJed in. Thefish is transported from the boat to the salting sheds. After it has been mixd with sah in a long wooden sheds. Aner it has been mixed with salt in a long wooden trougb it is thrown into cement vats. The salt mixes with the trough it is thrown into cement vais. The salt mixes with the moisture moisture from from the the herrings berrings to to form fonn a a brine brine with with a a saltsaltdensity of 25". The fish must remain steeped in this brine for density of 25". The fish must remain steeped in tbis brine for at least te,n days, to ensure its preservation. at least ten days. to enrure Îts preservation.

SMOKED

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SMOKED HERRINGS. HERRINGS. HmrNcs HARENGS rrruns FUMÉS - There There are are two t:wo ways of smoking fish, 'hot' and 'cold'. of smoking 'hot' and 'cold'. In cold cold smoking smoking, the fish fish isis hung hung some sorne way away from the fire and is smoked at a temperature of about zS'C. (77'F.). fue and is smoked at a temperature of about In In hot hot smoking the the fish fish is is hung hung close close to to the the fire and is

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partially cooked. Cold Cold smoking smoking is is carriod carded out out almost almos! exctusively in France, notably in Boulogne. The fuel usod is exclusively in France, notably in Boulogne. Tbe fuel used is always preferably wooq beecb and always wood, p-referably beech., and sawdust. sawdust. Resinous Resinous wood wood isis avoided, avoided, as as itit imparts imparts an ail unpleasant unpieasant flavour flavour to to the the fish. fisb. Hot Hotsmoking is scarcelywer used usedexc€pt exceptininthe thepreparation prepara tion of ofbucklings, bucklings,which are aremuch IDuchinindernand demandininAlsace. Alsace.

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HOAXES bread bread nade made variously of of barley, barley, wheat, wheat, chestnuts, mlitze, maize, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes and potatoes. potatoes. This This they they washed down with with beer beer and spirits made made from from glain. grain. They could could hardly h.ardly slsallow'another swallowanother morsel morse! when their their host announced that that it il was time time to proceed proceed to to the examination examination of of other other substances. At At this point, point, a delicate delicate feast feast was served, which which only only Grimod Grimod de de la la Reynidre Reynière could could enjoy enjoy (not (not having having eaten eaten anything bdorehand). beforehand). He did so 50 in in front front of of the bloated 'economists' who were satiated satiated but but not not satisfied. satisfied. The most of a guest To test the palate and discernment discernment.of guest - The typical example is the meal served to to Monselet. Monselet, journalist and staunch famous famous.journalist staunch defender of of gastronomy gastronomy was considered considered to be he anything anything but a connoisseur. connaisseur. Chavette, who ran the Bribant Brébanl restauiant, restaurant, one day took it it into into his head to invite invite Monselet to ta dinner. The The menu menu was:

HIPFOCRASHIPPOCRAS - Spiced Spiced aromatic aromatic wine wine much enjoyed by by our ancestors. It was was so called because becaus.e it was was filtered filterOO through Ihrough a ancestors. of a type said to to be be invented by Hippocrates, Hippocrales, the the great bag of physician who lived lived in the the fifth fifth century cenlury B.C. B.C speaking Hippocras Hippocras was was a a type type of of aperitif apéritif Properly speaking similar to la the vermouths vermouths made made nowadays, rather than a table similar wine. Our Our forebears, forebears, in În fact, facl, drank drank itit before before meals meals or, ifif itit was of the meal. roeal. served at table, at the end of Arnaud de Villeneuve, Villeneuve, famous'thirteenth famous' thirteenth century physinumber of of different different recipes for the spiced wine. cian, gives a number wine to the boil In one recipe he he recommends recommends bringing the wîne J litres (5| (st pints, and putting in it a sachet containing, for 3 75 g. g, (3 oz.) oz.) each each of the the following following spices: 6l pints) wine, 75 raisÎns. Boil the wine wîne until it is cubeb, cloves, nutmeg and raisins. sugar. reduced reduced by byaa third of of its volume. Add sugar. In ln another another recipe, the wine wÎne is is spiced spiced with a a mixture mixture of of nuts, cloves, cinnamon, ginger, paradise DutS, cloves, sugar and a a pinch pinch cinnamon, ofmusk. Hippocras Hippocras was was drunk drunk cooled cooled or or even even iced iced whenever possible. possible. This wine remained popular for a a very long time; it it was it were still in fashion in the eighteenth century. Presents of it made made to the king and to foreign nobility. Here is Îs a more recent rceent recrpe for Hippocras: g. (If lb., 3 cups) sugar in aa saucepan wilh Put 700 g, with 4 dl. (i scant 2 cups) water and the following spices: 4 teatea(1 pint, pmt, seant (ground), cloves, t of nutmeg (ground), of aa nutmeg to 2 spoons grnger, ginger, 2 cloves, to tablespoons cinnamon and the zest of Seville oranges. tablespoons cinnamon of 2 Seville Boil this syrup for a few few minutes. Add 2 litres litres (3| pints, (white or red). a| pints) of old wine (white rOO). Leave the mixture on the stove until until the surface turns it into aa large stave tums white, then pour it jug and leave Strain through jug leave to ta infuse infuse for 30 minutes. Strain through muslin, and bottle. bottle.

Swallow's SwaIJow's nest nesl soup

Brill lzard Izard cutlets Capercaillie Capereaîllie Good Hope. Hope, etc. Wines Wines from Tokay, Tokay, the Rhine, Cape of Good dishes. Monselet gave the highest prai.se praise to each of of these dishes. Joseph H6mard Hémard describes how how Chavette, looking looking stern and tragic, tragie, pointed an accusihg accusihg finger l'inger at al Monselet when the meal had had ended: ended: 'You have just, 'Vou just, he jeered jeered with witb a fiendish laugh, 1augh, publicly public1y your ignorance. The was a The swallow's nest soup soup was swallow's nest admitted your admitted pur6e ofnood1es cooked of noodles and kidney beans; purée beans; the brill briB was cod cooked on a fine comb (and (and to illustrate illustrale his point he showed showed him the carefully preserved of two carefully preserved backbone made of two yellow yellow combs were lamb cutlets were izard euùets sewn together back sewn back to ta back); baek); the tbe izard small was aa small capercaillie was cutlets marinated in bitters; the capercaîllie cutlets marinated in bitters; the Clos-Vougeot turkey sprinkled with a a glass of absinth! The Clos-Vougeot of cognac and aa flower of cognac by adding a was made made by a spoonful of fiower of was nothing violet to the Tokay was an ordinary ordinary wine; the violet to an nothing but but a punch added; for the South as for the South M6gon added; and as with aa Utile little punch Mâçon with simply aChablis.' African wine, it was u,as simply African wine, a Chablis.' recognised the . . :, .', Monse\e1 Monselet protested timidly, timidly, 'l'I recognised ·'But "But .. perfume of the little . . .' little Rhine flower .. perfume 'Which we obtained with a few drops of of thyme.' thyme.' ofessence 'Which essence of Then confronted confronted head. Then Monselet lowered his his head. Overcome, Monse!et and lheir their by the laughter of of the the other other guests and the unrestrained laughter and penance, for for an exhortations for for peaance, an amende amende honorable, and flung hims.elf himself to to his sort, he he fiung other encouragements encouragements of of [hat that sort, other in aa clasped, and and entreated entreated in in front front of of Chavette, hands dasped. knees in trembling voiee: voice: trembling 'Mercy! Pray don't Don't spread this abroad! don't betray me! Doo't you! lI have children!' children!' Save me from dishonour, 1I beg of you! probably conc\uded The soirée concluded with with much much drinking drinking and soirEe probably The not seem merriment. At At ail secret does does not seem ta to have all evenls, events, the the secret merriment. yet another been weil well kept. kept. No No more, in fact, fact, than than on on yet more, in been guest of the author occasion when the same Monselet was the guest same Monselet occasion Favre. The The latter latter Dictionnaire de de cuisine, cuisine,Joseph of the Grand Dictionnaire Joseph Favre. had wri written: tten : 'Dear Maître, fork will be be aa fork there will Maitre, tomorrow tomorrow at at midday, midday, there 'Oear party at Fulbert Dumonteil. Dumonteil. at the home of our friend Fulbert luncheon party shall be doing the eooking.' cooking.' 1I shall journalist, novelist aod guest, the joumalisl, There was was to be aa fourth fourth guest, and politician, Tony The meou follows: R6villon. The as foUows: menu was was as Tony Révillon. polîtician,

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Large amphibious amphibious HIppoporAME --- Large HIP PO POT AMUS. HIPPOPOTAME HIPPTOPOTAMUS. food by the for food pachyderm whose flesh is mueh much sought after for pac:;n"loerm natives. African natives. (Gastronomic). SUPERCHERlES cAsrRoNoMIQUEs -surnncnnnres GASTRONOMIQUES HOAXES (G.astrollomic). of one gastronomic hoaxes By gastronomie we mean the substituting of hoaxes we By mean the product for anolher, another, or practical jokes and tricks of a similar product are nature. The various forms of falsification involving fraud are mystify and surprise Hoaxes intended to mystil'y not dealt with here. Hoaxes downfalsification harmless; while commercial falsifica are usually harmless; tian is dowoto or or detracting right dishonest. dishonest. The latter involves adding to right product and an and offering offering an from aa wholesome, wholesome, high-grade product from purpose of (or even of its place for the the purpose in Îts even harmful) one in inferior (or gain. illicit gain. îllicit It may be gastronomic hoax may take severaI forms. lt several forms. The gastronomie his guests of his advantags of who takes takes unfair advantage the jest of aa host host who to test the the it may may be [0 meal; it before serving them them with aa proper meal; the gastronomic skills order ta to amuse the gastronomie skills of aa particular guest in arder with the others; itit may be dietated dictated by by evenL~ events with the tacil tacit may even even be others; the agreement of be aa practical joke, where the finally, it may he of all; finally. agreement out of of host mystifies mystifies everybody by suddenly producing from out host all that that itit some startling novelty (which may not be ail the blue sorne be) ! appears to be)! out invitations invitations de la la Reynière Reyniire sent sent out host - Grimod de Jest of aa host'Economists' luncheon', for aa luneheon luncheon party, aa SQ-called so-called 'Economists' for world. and agricultural agricultural world. reserved for specialists in the business and announced that that When they arrived, the master of the the house announced the mas When 1er of guests together could taste ail all he had so that that they they could had gathered his gueslS together so he grain(baked for vary and grainsorts of of breads (baked varying of time) and sorts mg lengths of based beverages. beverages. based Knowing the la Reynière's Reynidre's reputation of of Grimod Grimod de de la the reputatîon Knowing guests had can table, the fasted the before. So So one one can the guests had faste<:! the day day before. table, However, they they their surprise at this announcement. announc€ment. However, surprise at imagine their greedily swallowed warm and and cold cold set to to with with aa will swallowed hot, hot, warm will and and greedily set

en caùse caisse Burbot liver en Isigny butter butter Saucissondc Lyon--Isigny Saucisson de Lyon Salmon escalopes, escalopes, tartare sauce sauce Salmon New potatoes New Omelette d l'ambre gris

Dessert Dessert

quite an It appeared to from the to be be quite an ordinary ordinary menu., menu, apart apart from the Il ambergris. ambergris. 455 455

HOCCO Monselet Monselet started off off by being late and lunch was already

fishermen know the hog-fish under such names as as scorpion, (sea-devil). crapaud dc mer (sea-devil). crapaud (toad) or diable de is tough, the hog-fish is is not used and is used other The flesh flesh of the tough, and than for bouillabaisse bouillabaisse or similar fish soups.

over at 4 4 o'clock. o'c1ock. But, But, unover when when he he eventually eventually arrived arrived at dismayed, the the guests guests began began again, for for they were as eager as Favre that the the plot plot should should succeed. succeed. As As he he savoured the Favre that various various dishes, dishes, Monselet Monselet discoursed knowledgeably knowledgeably upon upon each each one. one. The The omelette omelette particularly particularly delighted him; he he could not not find find words words enough to do itit justice. justice. Finally, Final1y, Favre was unable unable to to contain contain himself himself any any longer longer and and showed showed him him the the real menu. menu. The The result result was was catastrophic. catastrophic. We We must must add add that that a few few days previously the celebrated celebrated physiologist, had received received a number number of of crocodiles physiologist, Paul Paul Bert, Bert, had from order to to study study their from Egypt Egypt which which he he planned planned to to dissect dissect in in order nervous who was present present at the anatomy, anatomy, nervous system. system. Favre, Favre, who declared declared that that these these reptiles reptiles were were good good to to eat, eat, so Paul Bert set aside aside two two brains brains and and aa piece piece of of tail tail for himself, himself, while while Favre Favre carried six eggs eggs just just about abou t carried awty away aa whole whole tail, tail, four four brains brains and six ready ready for for laying. laying. And And so so itit was was that that the the crocodiles' crocodiles' brains brains became became burbot burbot livers; livers; the the escalopes escalopes of crocodile crocodile tail became became escalopes escalopes of salmon; salmon; and and the the omelette omelette of ofcrocodile crocodile eggs eggs became became omelette omelette dà I'ambre l'ambre gris. To To crown crown it it all, ail, Favre Favre substituted substituted ordinary horsemeat horsemeat sausage sausage for for the the saucisson saucisson de de Lyon, Lyon, and and as as for for the the Isigny Isigny butter, butter, itit was was simply simply margarine. margarine. Hoaxes of the the Continental Continental Hoaxes dictated dictated by by events events -- At At the the time time of System, System, beet beet sugar sugar took took the the place place of of cane cane sugar sugar (and (and still still does). During the the Second Second World World War, War, grape grape sugar sugar (which (which did does). During not not require require coupons) coupons) was was preferred preferred to to saccharin saccharin as as a substitute substitute for for ordinary ordinary sugar. sugar. Certainly Certainly the the most most famous famous period under this this heading heading was was the the Siege Siege of of Paris Paris 1870-1871. 1870-1871. period under Because Because of of the the lack lack of of food food people people had had to to have have recourse recourse to to substitutes, which, as number of ofwhich, as presented presented by by the the best best chefs, chefs, substitutes, aa number gave fortunate few. few. The The gave some sorne pleasant pleasant evenings evenings to to the the fortunate mutton-flavoured mutton-flavoured rat rat is is famous, famous, but but the the equally equally famous famous elephant elephant pie pie was, was, in in fact, fact, made made with with mice. mice. ItIt seemed seemed to to be be the the general general opinion opinion that that the the zoological zoological gardens gardens possessed possessed aa whole troop of ofelephants elephan ts (instead (instead of of only only two) two) to to provide provide the the whole troop wherewithal wherewithal to to fill fill all ail the the pies. pies. And And itit was was aa bone, bone, aa mouse's mouse's bone, that led led to to the the discovery discovery of of what what lay lay bone, found found in in aa pie pie dish dish that at at the the bottom bottom of of the the affair. affair. But But itit was was very very good. good. And And that, that, after after all, ail, was was the the main main thing. thing. And what about about the the concierge concierge in in Paris Paris who, who, in in 1917, 1917, raised raised And what aa few that he he could could sell sel! dozens dozens offresh offresh eggs eggs daily? daily? few chickens chickensso so that The prototype prototype is is certainly certainly the the 'bouri'bouriThe practical practical ioke joke -- The The bout', aa dish dish invented invented comparatively comparatively recently recently by by the the humhumbout', orist orist Henry Henry Monier. Monier. He He had had discussed discussed the the dish dish with with some sorne of of his hisjournalist journalist colleagues, colleagues, gastronomes gastronomes like like himself, himself, mentionmentioning ing that that there there was was no no restraurant restraurant in in Paris Paris where where itit could could be be found. found. A A restaurateur restaurateur upon upon hearing hearing this this declared dec1ared that that he he prepare it. it. The The late late Marius Marius Richard Richard described described knew how how to to prepare knew theevent event in in his his column, column, praising praising the the marvellous marvel10us dish dish eaten eaten in in the the same same restaurant. restaurant. And And they they say say that that Monier Monier himself himself was was the quite quiteastonished astonished to toknow know that that the'bouribort' the 'bouribout' was was nothing nothing but but duck with with cherries. cherries, otherwise otherwise known known as as canard canard d à la la aa duck Montmorency. Montmorency.

HOG'S HOG'S FAT. pfi.ttts PANNE -- The fat which covers the pig's kidneys and fillets. fillets. It is used for making fine fine forcemeats and and black black (blood) produces superior down it (blood) puddings. puddings. Rendered Rendered down it produces quality lard which in French is called axonge.

HOG'S IIEAD CIIEESE or PORK PTORK DRA BRAWN. HEAD CHEESE WN.

rtrs TÊTE or DE poRc PORC - A kind of galantine (q.v.)

FRoMAcE DE FROMAGE

made from hog's

head.

HOLLAND HOLLAND -- See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. HOLLANDAISESAUCEHOLLANDAISE SAUCE - Name of made with of a hot sauce saucemadewith egg egg yolks yolks and and butter. butter.

It It is is served served with with eggs, eggs, fish and and vegetables.

(See SAUCE.) SA UCE.)

HOLL Y. Horx HOUX - Evergreen shrubs. shrubs. In In sorne HOLLY. some countries, notably Corsica, Corsica, holly berries berries are are roasted and and powdered notably and are are used used to make make a 6dn16 drink similar similar to coffee. and excellent clear holly spirit produced in Alsace. Alsace. There is an excellent Butcher's-broom or or kneeholly. knee-hoUy. noux-tnftol, HOUX -FRÉLON, perrr-Hor-rx PETIT-HOUXButcher's.broom

-

European plant used used in in pharmacy. pharmacy. Its Its root root has has diuretic European properties. The young young shoots shoots of of the plant are edible and can properties. The be cooked cooked in the the same way as as asparagus. asparagus. be

HOLL YHOCK. ,l'rcfs ALCÉE - Plant originating originating in in Lebanon. Lebanon. It HOLLYHOCK. has an appreciable appreciable nutritive content. content. A nourishing starch has flour is is obtained obtained from its roots. flour

-

HONEY. MIEL MIEL -- Sweet liquid liquid manufactured manufactured in the sac sac of of the HONEY. worker bee bee from from the nectar nectar secreted in certain certain flowers and worker introduced by by the the insect insect into into the the cells of of the the hive. Honey was introduced of ancient ancient times when when cane sugar sugar was a the chief chief sweet sweet food food of the rarity. rarity. particularly energising energising food, food, providing providing 300 300 calories ItIt isis aa particularly per 100 100 g. g. The sugars it contains contains are completely completely assimilable per by the the body. body. Honey Honey contains contains hardly hardly any any vitamins; vitamins; only only in the by proportion of of 2 mg. to to 100 100 g. g. proportion Several grades grades of of honey honey are are sold sold commercially: Several Virgin or or superfine superfine honey, honey, extracted from the the combs combs by l.1. Virgin exposure to to the the sun sun or or gentle gentle heat. heat. exposure 2. Common Common or or yellow yellow honey, honey, extracted extracted under under greater greater heat. heat. 2. 3. Brown Brown honey, honey, extracted extracted by by pressure pressure under under heat. heat. 3. Honey is is aa very very rich rich and and concentrated concentrated food. food. Its effect is is Honey similar to to that that of of sugar sugar but but it it is is more more readily readily assimilated. similar Apart from from this, this, itit is is medically medically prescribed prescribed or or prohibited prohibited in in Apart and in particular particular is is forbidden forbidden to the same same cases cases as as sugar, sugar, and the diabetics. ItIt is is slightly slightly laxative. laxative. diabetics. that of children, children, honey honey can take take the In diet, diet, especially especially that In place of of sugar sugar in in almost almost all ail its its uses, uses, though though there there are are people people place who find find itit indigestible. indigestible. who

HOCCO -- Type Type of of gallinaceous gallinaceous bird bird of of which which there there are are aa HOCCO ofCentral Central dozenspecies speciestotobe befound found inin the theequatorial equatorial regions regions of dozen America. They Theyare aresimilar similarto to the theEuropean European turkey turkey and and have have aa America. certain number number are are bred bred in in the the delicious white white flesh. flesh. A A certain delicious poultry-runs of ofFrance. France. poultry-runs ln his his Souvenirs Souvenirs d'imigration, d'émigration, Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin mentions mentions In turkey and and remarks remarks upon upon its its succulent succulent flesh. flesh. thiskind kind ofofwild this wild turkey cooked ininthe thesame sameway wayas asturkey turkey (q.v.). (q.v.). ItItisiscooked HOG-FISH. RAScASSE RASCASSE -- Fish Fish oblong oblong in in shape shape and and rather rather HOG-FISH.

Hocco

highbacked, backed,with wi thaa large largeand and spiny spinyhead. head. It1thas hasspikes, spikes,whose w hose high prick isis poisonous, poisonous, on on its its dorsal dorsal fins. fins. Its Its colouring colouring isis varied, varied, prick but mostly mostly greyish greyish with with black black markings. markings. The The Provengal Provençal but 456 456

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE delicate, delicate, especially especially when when served served before before aa rather rather heavy heavy menu menu consisting consisting of ofaa number number of ofcourses. courses. With hors-d'œuvre may may be be more more With aa light light luncheon, luncheon, the the hors-d'euvre substantial substantial and and nourishing. nourishing. horsandhot hors'd'euvre cold There main types: types: cold hors-d'œuvre and hot horsThere are are two two main d'euvre. d'œuvre. Cold Cold hors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, usually usually served served with with luncheon, luncheon, are are of of two two kinds: kinds: those those which which can canbe be bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and home. preparation at those those which which require require some sorne preparation at home. Formerly, Formerly, hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre wete were called called entrdes entrées volantes volantes ot or petites petites enties. entrées. They They generally generally formed formed part part of of the the dinner dinner menu, menu, and and were were served served after after the the soup. soup. Hot Hot hors'd'euvre hors-d'œuvre can, can, however, however, be be served served at at luncheon luncheon at at the the same same time time as as cold cold hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre. Nowadays, Nowadays, itit is is customary customary to to serve serve aa wide wide variety variety of of horshorsd'euvre at the the beginning beginning of of aa luncheon. luncheon. d'œuvre at from Russia, imported custom a France France has has also also adopted adopted a custom imported from Russia, of of serving serving hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre in in aa special special way; way; as as zakouski' zakouski, aa kind kind up made entirely meal, meal-before-the of of meal-before-the meal, entirely made up of of hors'd'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, washed washed down down with with liberal liberal draughts draughts of of wine wine and and liqueur. liqueur. Formerly, Formerly, in in Russia, Russia, this this was was served served in in an an ante-chamber ante-chamber adjoining adjoining the the dining dining room. room. In In France, France, the the custom custom has has been been somewhat somewhat modified. modified. rasse, these d la hots-d'euvre à Under Under the the name name of of zakouski zakouski or or hors-d'œuvre la russe, these guests at the to the and served trays on snacks snacks are are arranged arranged on trays and served to the guests at the table table itself. itself. snacks must These snacks of cold Presentatim of Presentation cold hors-d'cuwe hors-d'œuvre -- These must be be presented presen ted elegantly. elegan tly . the hostess. help to hints Here Here are are aa few few hints to help the hostess. china sets' china hors'd'euvre sets, special hors-d'œuvre from special Apart from l.1. The The dishes. dishes. Apart plate may may gold or or silver silver plate or antique antique gold plates and glass plates dishes or and dishes or glass or porringers, pottery or silver porringers, or silver plates, pottery rustic-style plates, Old rustic-style be used used.. Old be effectively. very effectively. used very can be be used etc, can bowls, etc, crystal bowls, crystal purely decorative, decorative, though purely garnishes. Gamishes, Garnishes, though 2. The The garnishes. 2. garnishes. great variety of such such garnishes. variety of is aa great There is edible. There all be be edible. must aIl must grve aa very very attractive attractive they give arranged, they and arranged, chosen and Tastefully chosen Tastefully garnish common garnish The most most common hors-d'euvte. The the hors-d'œuvre. to the appearance to appearance used It can can be be used green and curly. It and curly. very green be very must be which must iJparsley, is parsley, which or chopped. chopped. in sprigs sprigs or in tarragon, garnished with chervil, tarragon, with chervil, be garnished canalso Hors-d'euvre can Hors-d'œuvre also be greento these these greencontrast to As aa contrast hearts. As lettuce hearts. aod lettuce watercress and watercress used.. Beetroot Beetroot be used can be beetroot can and beetroot lemon and of lemon half slices slices of stuffs, half stuffs, ways. in other other ways. and in matchsticks and into matchsticks cut into diced, cut served diced, isis served any using any varied by by using be varied can be &ors'd'euvre can of hors-d'œuvre decoration of The the decoration pomegranate seeds, seeds, gherkins, red red pomegranate capers, gherkins, following: capers, ofihe of the following: small or chopped), chopped), small quartered or (halved, quartered eggs (halved, hard-boiled eggs hard-boiled or chopped, chopped, rings or into rings sliced into onions pickled onions, large on onions, large pickled ions sliced peas, asparagus green peas, asparagus beans, green French beans, beans, French kidney beans, small kidney small radish, the the black radish, radishes, black turnips, radishes, and turnips, carrots and tips, boiled boiled carrots tips, peppers' green peppers, yellow, red red and and green leeks, yellow, of leeks, and stalks stalks of leaves and leaves etc. trufres, etc. mushrooms, truffies, mushrooms, can flowers can and colour, colour, ftowers form and in form greater variety variety in To achieve achieve greater To edible), (whose leaves arealso alsoedible), leaves are Nasturtiums (whose used. Nasturtiums be used. also be also the enhance the allenhance daisiesail and daisies chrysanthemums and violets, chrysanthemums borage, violets, borage, effect. decorative effect. decorative stated otherwisestated Unless otherwise hot hors-d'œuvre hopd'cuwe-- Unless ofhot Presentation of Presentation hothors-d'euvre particular item, item,hot relating totoaaparticular theentry entry relating under the under hors-d'œuvre paperdoily, and doily, and oraapaper napkinor folded napkin dish, aafolded onaadish, areserved served on are their parsleyaccording according toto their fried parsley or fried fresh or garnished with with fresh garnished cromesquis fritters, cromesquis such asas fritters, &ors-d'euvresuch Fried hors-d'œuvre nature. Fried nature. matchstick nestsof of matchstick servedinin nests beserved may be etc., may croquettes,etc., croquettes, potatoes. potatoes.

The The quality, quality, consistency, consistency, aroma aroma and and flavour flavour of of honey honey vary varyaccording according totothe the type type of offlowers flowersmost mostwidespread widespreadininthe the region is gathered. gathered. The The best best is is made made from from the the region where where itit is nectar nectar of of labiates labiates (thyme, (thyme, mother mother of of thyme). thyme). Narbonne Narbonne honey honey owes owesits itsdistinctive distinctive flavour flavoU! to to the the nectar nectar of ofrosemary. rosemary. The Themost mosthighly highlyreputed reputed honey honeyisisthat thatof ofHymetus HymetusininGreece, Greece, France that that of ofNarbonne, Narbonne, Gfltinais, Gâtinais, Champagne Champagne and and and in in France and Savoy. Spring Spring honey honey isis superior superior to to autumn autumn honey. honey. Savoy. Certain impart aa distinctive distinctive flavour ftavour to to honey honey which which Certainplants plants impart isis sometimes sometimes unpleasant unpleasant (for (for instance, instance, honey honey gathered gathered from from pines, made from from the the pines, which which has has aa resinous resinous taste). taste). Honey Honey made nectar of of poisonous poisonous plants plants such such as as belladonna belladonna can can itself itself be be nectar poisonous. poisonous. HONGROISE HONGROISE (A (À LA) LA) -- Dishes Dishes prepared prepared dà la la hongroise hongroise arc are cooked in in aa cream cream sauce sauce seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Eggs, Eggs, fish, fish, cooked meat meat (other (other than than pork pork products), products), poultry, poultry, etc., etc., can can be be preprepared pared dà la la hongror'se. hongroise. Recipes Recipes for for these these dishes dishes are are given given in in appropria te headings. headings. alphabetical order order under under appropriate alphabetical

HOP. HoLJBLoN HOUBLON -- Hardy Hardy plant plant grown grown in in many many countries. countries. HOP. The cones cones of of the the female plant are used used in the the brewing brewing of of The beer. beer. Hop slroots. shoots. JETs JETS DE HouBLoN HOUBLON - In In French cookery, cookery, the the Hop namejets jets de de houblon houblon is is given given to the the edible edible flowers flowers of of the the male name plant, or panicles. The edible tip of the panicle is broken broken samewayas way as green green asparagus asparagus away from itswoody its woody stem stem in in the same awayfrom tips. of Hop shoots are boiled in salt water, with a few drops of lemon juice. Once they are cooked they can be treated in in a different ways: number of of different ln butter. Toss for a few seconds in butter. butter. In butter. cream. ln cream. Toss in butter and simmer in fresh cream. In in seconds III few seconds for aa few Simmer in butter. butter. Sim Toss in In stock. Toss ln stock. mer for concentrated brown brown veal stock. garnish with with vegetable or a gamish Hop shoots may be served as a vegetable with as aa garnish with used as various dishes. In In particular they are used eggs.

Branch of ofhop Branch hop cones with con with es

prized, hop hop much prized, this vegetable vegetable isis much In where this In Belgium, Belgium, where are always always vegetable, are served as as aa vegetable, shoots, are served when they they are shoots, when and ontop top and circle on garnished with poached eggs arranged inin aacircle eggsarranged garnished with poached cocks' inthe theshape shapeof ofcocks' cut in interspersed of bread bread cut cro0tons of interspersed with withcroûtons combs and fried fried in inbutter. butter. combs and the panicles or not sold sold inin the are not In or shoots shootsare hop panicles In U.S.A. U.S.A. hop producing regions regions large hop hop producing some large market, aresorne but there there are market, but where found. theymay may be be found. where they upthe the toscrape scrape up utensil, used used to HORN. Little horn horn utensil, HORN. CORNE coRNE - - Little on marble marble oron remains basins, or mortars, inin basins, remains of of mixtures mixtures inin mortars,

These FRoIDs- -These HoRs-D'GtryREFROIDS HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE COLD HORS-D'ŒUVRE. COLD dice, cutinto intodice, ingredients, cut severalingredients, oneororseveral ofone usually consist consistof usually mayonorwith withaamayondressingor vinegardressing anoil oiland andvinegar withan seasoned,with seasoned, pur6es specialpurées forcemeats,special butters, forcemeats, sauce.Compound Compoundbutters, naisesauce. naise added. alsobe beadded. mayalso andsalpicons salpiconsmay and

slabs. slabs. areaddiaddithesesnacks snacksare HORS-D'ŒUVRE Bydefinition, definition, these HOR$D'(EWRE - - By lightand and belight tional They should therefore be should therefore menu.They tional totothe themenu. 457 457

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

Hors-d'œuvre vegetables vegetables (Rare (Robert Carrier) Hors-d'ceuvre rt Carrier)

458

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

some Sorne cold cold hors-d'ceuvre: hors-d'œuvre: salad salad of of ox 0,; muzzle, muzzle, artichokes articbokes dà la la grecque, grecque, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumber cucumbcr

1

slices of hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and surround surround with with half half slices of lemons lemons cut cut with Sprinkle with with with aa fluted fluted cutter, cutter, and and with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Sprinkle several tablespoons tablespoons of of their their marinade. marinade. in ail all ways ways kilkis can Norwegian anchovies ot Norwegian anchovies or kilkis can be be used used in indicated indicated for for anchovies anchovies in in brine. brine. from anchovies from A r'surrE oil. ANCHOIS eNcnots À Anchovies in oïl. Anchovies L'HUlLE -- Free Free anchovies in dish, in onan hors-d'euvre dish, strips. Arrange salt. Cut Cut into salt. into thin thin strips. Arrange on an hors-d'œuvre parsley. Dress Dress chopped parsley. pattern. Garnish capers and and chopped with capers Garnish with aa pattern. of oil. oil. with aa thin trickle of with thin trickle p'ANcHoIs -- Anchovy Anchovy sALADEs D'ANCHOIS various. SALADES Anchovy salads, saladq various. Ancbovy salad. by a salado accompanied bya eggs accompanied hard-boiled eggs in oil with hard-boiled fillets in oil or with great variety variety of of with aa great be served served with can be salad can Anchovy salad Anchovy (see CHIFFONNADE), boiled CHIFFONNADE), boiled chffinnade (see dishes: Lettuce chiffonnade dishes: fine cut into into aa fine dice, celeriac celeriac cut or dice, potatoes cut fine slices slices or into fine cut into potatoes julienne (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. etc. julienne the ananare accompaniments; accompaniments; the additions are various additions These various These the dish. dish. chovies dominate the chovies Free anchovy anchovy o'ANcHoIs -- Free PAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES Anchovy seroUs. A.nchovy the fillets fillets Flatten the cloth. Flatten dry in in aa clotho and dry from salt, salt, scrape, scrape, and fillets from pur6e or other or any any other of fish fish purée layer of thin layer with aa thin coat them them with and coat and into the fillets fillets into Roll the hors-d'euvre. Roll for cold cold hors-d'œuvre. suitable for mixture suitable scrolls. serolls. garnish with the with the and garnish dish and hors-d'euvre dish in an an hors-d'œuvre Arrange them them in Arrange separately, chopped separately, yolks and hard-boiled eggs eggs chopped of hard-boiled and whites whites of yolks of oil. oil. trickle thin trick parsley. Dress with aa thin Dress with chopped parsley. and chopped capers, and capers, le of nATEo'ANcHoIs BATEPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETfES anchovy serous. Bargemants anchovy Bargeman's tunny with tunny them with and stuff stuff them scrolls and anchovy scrolls Make anchovy r.rinu -- Make LIÈRE them Arrange them mayonnaise. Arrange (tuna fish) pur6e blended with mayonnaise. blendd with fish) purée (tuna with aa Garnish with shells. Garnish barquette shells. baked barquette in small small baked two in two by by two two gherkins, seasoned seasoned and gherkins, eggs and hard-boiled eggs with hard-boiled made with salpicon made salpicon garnish paper doyley and garnish doyley and on aa paper Arrange on with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. with MoND'^nNcHots MONPAUPIETTES D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES anchovy serolls. Monselet anchovy Monselet the with the made with stuffing made with aa stuffing scrolls with Fill anchovy anchovy serolls sELEr -- Fill SELET toasted on aatoasted each scroll scroll on Arrange each yolks of eggs. Arrange hard-boiled eggs. of hard-boiled yolks (seeBUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see Anchovy butter with Anchovy covered with of bread bread covered canapi of canapé butters). Compound butters). Compound put aasmall small and put capers and ringof of capers with aaring scrolls with the scroIls Surround the Surround in each. each. tarragon in sprig of of tarragon sprig parsley. garnish with fresh parsley. with fresh paper doyley and garnish doyley and on aa paper Arrange on Arrange rl D'aNcHoIs ÀALA PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS nigoise. PAUPIETTES scrolls ài lala niçoise. Anchovy serolls Anchovy (see butter (see Tarragonbutter withrTarragon scrolls withanchovy scrolls NIgoIsE -- Fill Fill anchovy NIçoISE butter). Compound butter). BUTTER, Compound BUTTER, twoand twothemand marinate them raw tomatoes, tomatoes,marinate small raw Hollow small Hollow the pur6e. Place thescrolls scrolls inin the Place the fish purée. with aa fish thirds fill fill each each with thirds pur6e. of fish purée. thefoundation foundationoffish tomatoeson onthe tomatoes dishand and hors-d'euvre dish onan anhors-d'œuvre Arrangeon taste. Arrange to taste. Decorate to Decorate ofoil. oil. trickle of dresswith with aatrickle dress vATEL- -Stuff Stuff o'ANcHoIs VATEL PAUPIETTEs D'ANCHOIS scrolls. PAUPIETTES Vatel ancbovy anchovyserolls. Vatel (seeBUTTER, ComBUTTER,Combutter(see Anchovybutter withAnchovy anchovy scrolls scrollswith anchovy added. hasbeen beenadded. tarragon has which chopped chopped tarragon poundbutters) towhich butters) to pound two-thirds puffpastry. Fillthese thesetwo-thirds pattycases ofpuff casesof Makesmall small patty Make pastry. Fill

The following foIlowing are are the the most most lsval usual hors-d'euvre' hors-d'œuvre. The Aceto-dolce - See Sozr-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles below. AcetodolceAllumettes -- See Pastry Pastry straws straws below. below. Allumettes Anchovies. ANcHoIS ANCHOIS -- These must must first first be be freed from salt. Anchovies. stuffings, For dffirent different mixtures mixtures (compound (compound butters, butters, stuffings, For pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, sauces, etc.). Wash Wash the anchovies, soak sauces, etc.). them in cold water, cut into fillets, clean and dry them. The thern

according to method of preparation after this this varies varies according to the method particular dish for which they are intended. and different For hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre and different garnishes. garnishes. Soak Soak the the anFor above. Scrape and clean chovies and cut them into fillets fiUets as above. removed. have been removed. scales have weIl to ensure all the scales ensure that ail them well Dry cloth. Dry lightly lightly in a clotho whole, them who leave them or leave small strips strips or Cut fillets into le, into small the fillets 1 Cut the according to the dish for which they are intended. terrine. Cover dish or or terrine. deep dish Arrange anchovy fillets in aa deep fillets in with olive oil. Put the lid on the dish and keep in a cool place. 1

Use as indicated. Er OEUFS oEUFS ,c,NcHots ET Anchovies hard-boiled eggs eggs I.I. ANCHOIS and hard-boiled Anchovies and anchovy third anchovy and one one third DURS DuRs -- Two thirds hard-boiled eggs and vinegar, salt, salt, with oil, oil, vinegar, fillets Season with dice. Season small dice. fillets cut cut into into small mayonnaise' pepper and finely chopped chopped herbs, or with mayonnaise. Attx OEUFS oEUFs II. ANCHOIS lNcnots AUX Anchovies eggs ll. hard-boild eggs Anchovies and and hard-boiled (see below). Garnish below). Garnish in oil oil (see DURS for Anchovies in as for DuRs -- Proceed Proceed as chopped eggs chopped with yolks and of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and white white of the yolks with the parsley. separately, and chopped chopped parsley. capers and separately, capers of marinated marinated garnish and decoration of The and decoration The dressing, dressing, garnish additional from the the additional Apart from anchovy varied. Apart can be be varied. fillets can anchovy fillets can be be items can variety of of other other items ingredients above, aa variety mentioned above, ingredients mentioned (see CHIFFONNADE), CHIFFONNADE), used, chffinnade (see used, e.g. e.g. Lettuce Lettuce chiffonnade etc. 1 olives, tarragon, etc. chervil, tarragon, lemon, chervil, olives, beetroot, beetroot, lemon, fresh Put fresh grecque. ANCHOIS A LA t,l GRECQUE cnBcQue -- Put 1 Ancbovies ANcHoIs À la grecque. Anchovies ài ]a hours. for 22 hours. into salt salt for anchovies, in aa cloth, cloth, into dried in and dried cleaned and anchovies, cleaned to ensure ensure individually to Soak shake them them individually and shake in cold water, and Soak in cold water, in smoking smoking oil. oil. only in that minute only for 1I minute Sear for off. Sear falls off. that all all the the salt salt falls in aa terrine. terrine. layers in in layers Drain and arrange arrange in Drain the the anchovies anchovies and sweet bay, bay, thyme, sweet [ Each with thyme, be sprinkled sprinkled with layer should should be Each layer (see II (see grains. Make coriander pepper grains. Make Court-bouillon Court'bouillon II coriander and and pepper the pour, while over the COURT-BOUILLON) still boiling, boiling, over while still and pour, COURT-BOUILLON) and 24 hours. hours. anchovies. for 24 this court-bouillon them in in this court-bouillonfot Marinate them anchovies. Marinate the marinade, marinade, Serve with the dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an hors-d'ezvre dish. Serve in an hors-d'œuvre freshly with freshly peeled lem sprinkle with garnish on and and sprinkle garnish with lemon of peeled with slices slices of cbopped fennel. chopped fennel. d'anchois àd as Escabèche Escabiche d'anchois In known as also known this dish dish isis also In France France this lala grecque. grecqte. LA NORMANDE NoRMANDE - Ancbovies lucHors ÀA LA normande. ANCHOIS Archovies ài lala normande. (q.v.) of of Arrange onaasalpicon salpicon (q.v.) fillets on anchovyfillets the marinated marinated anchovy Arrange the withaa rennet Surround with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Surround apples seasoned seasoned with rennet apples thin withaathin border Dress with dice. Dress very small smalldice. cut into into very border of of beetroot beetroot cut trickle ofoil. trickle of oil. Norwegian - These (kilkis).ANCHOIS DsNORVÈGE NoRvtcB-These ANcHoIsDE anchovies(kilkis). Norwegian anchovies an onan prepared. Arrang~ anchovies on can the anchovies Arrangethe ready prepared. can be bought ready be bought 1

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HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE with a salpicon of marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffies with a salpicon of marinated tunny (tuna fish) and truffles seasoned with mayonnaise. Put I scroll on each patty, and a seasoned with mayonnaise. Put 1 scroU on each patty, and a sliver of trufre on each scroll, topped with a dot of butter topped with a dot of butter sliver of truffle on each scroll, mixed with the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. mixed witb the yolk of hard-boiled eggs. Arrange on paper doyley and garnish with fresh parsley. Arrange on aapaper doyley and garnisb with fresh parsley. Artichokes. ARTTcHAUN Small artichokes, quartered artichokes,quartered Articbokes. ARTICHAUTS - - Small artichokes and hearts of artichokes, prepared according to articbokes and hearts of artichokes, prepared according to the methods described under the heading ARTICHOkE, the methods described under the heading ARTICHOKE, can be used ingredients for a variety of hors-d'euvre. can be used asasingredients for a variety of hors-d'œuvre.

Artichokes Artichokes

Artichokes BaronBrisse. ARTTcHAUTs BARoN-BRrsss - Cut Artichokes Baron-Brisse. ARTICHAUTS BARON-BRlSSE - Cut the hearts of artichokes into thin slices and cook them the hearts of artichokes into slices and cook them lightly for a few moments inthin boiling oil, oil, moving moving them them lightly for a few moments in boiling around. Moisten with a few tablespoons of Tomato-essence few tablespoons of Tomato essence around. Moisten with a (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley and (see ESSENCE). Add lemon juice, salt, pepper, parsley and chopped chervil. Boil together for a few minutes-. chopped cberviJ. Boil together for a few minutes. Leave to cool. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish with Leave to cool. Arrange on an hors-d'œuvre dish with rounds of peeled lemon. rounds of peeled lemon. Artichokes i la greque. ARrrcHAUrs A rB cnnceus Trim Artichokes à la grecque. ARTICHAUTS À LE GRECQUE -- Trim 20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour 20 small tender artichokes (see ARTICHOKE). Flavour with lemon and plunge with lemon and plunge one one after after the the other other into into a a liquid liquid prepared as follows: prepared as follows: Boil together . Boil togetber for for 55 minutes minutes in in aa casserole casserole 55 dl. dl. (scant (scant pint, pint, cunO water, I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant $ cup) oiive oit', tne l* 2* cups) water, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant t cup) olive oil, the juice of I lemon, a pinch of salt, l0 coriander seeds, l0 pepperjuice of 1lemon, a pinch of salt, 10 coriander seeds, 10 pepperc9rns, 1nd a large bouquet garni composed of paisley, corns, and a large bouquet garni composed of parsley, thyme, bay leaf, celery and fennel. tbyme, bay leaf, celery and fenne!. Cook the in this this court-bouillon court-bouillon for for 18 18 to to 20 20 Cook the artichokes artichokes in minutes. Take them out of the liquor and keep in a cool minutes. Take them out of the liquor and keep in a cool place. Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish and serve as cold as place. Arrange on an hors-d'œuvre dish and serve as cold as possible - iced if desired. possible - iCed if desired. Tbis hors-d'euvre keeps fairly well, particularly if the This hors-d'œuvre keeps fairly weIl, particularly if the artichokes are put in a narrow pickling jar and kept in a very articbokes are put in a narrow picklingjar and kept in a very place. cool cool place. For For a a larger larger quantity quantity (100 (100 artichokes) artichokes) sel see ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes d la grecque. ARTICHOKE, Pickled artichokes à la grecque. Artichokes i ta poiwade. ARTrcHAurs A LA porvRADE _ Articbokes à la poivrade. ARTICHAUTS À LA POIVRADE Nnme given to a dish of small young artichokes eaten raw Name given to a dish of small young artichokes eaten raw with Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with with Vinaigrelle sauce (see SAUCE) strongly flavoured with pepper. pepper. Artichoke i la vinaigrette. ARrrcHAUrs A r.l vrNArcRETrE Articboke à la vinaigrette. ARTICHAUTS À LA VINAIGRETTE-Another name for Artichokes d la poivrade. Another name for Artichokes à la poivrade. Boiled artichokes, either hot or cold, accompanied by a Boiled artichokes, eitber hot or cold, accompanied by a Vinoigrette sauce (see SAUCE), are also served under this Vinaigrelle sauce (see SAUCE), are also served under this name. name. Gamished artichoke hearts. FoNDs D'ARTrcnAUTs cARMs _ Gamisbed articboke bearts. FONDS D'ARTICHAUTS GARNISPrepare and cook very small artichoke hearts (see ARTIPrepare and cook very small artichoke hearts (see ARTIcHoKE). CHOKE). Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them. Garnish Garnish with with vegetable vegetable salad, salad, asparagus tips, different salpicons (q.v.), etc.; dress with asparagus tips, different salpicons (q.v.), etc.; dress with mayonnaise or vinaigrette sauce. mayonnaise or vinaigrelle sauce. 460 460

Artichoke hearts heartsmay garnishedwith maybe begarnished withdifferent differentpurées purees Artichoke andwith withcaviare. caviare.Arrange Arrangethe thehearts heartsininan anhors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvredish. dish. and Decoratewith with fresh parsley,hard-boiled fresh parsley, hard-boiled eggs, eggs,chopped Decorate chopped jelly,etc. etc. jelly, Artichokehearts heartsài lalagrecque. grecque. FONDS FoNDs D'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTTcHAUTs ÀALA Artichoke LA cREceuE- -Proceed Proceodasasindicated indicated for forArtichokes grecque, ArtichokesàdlaIagrecque, GRECQUE using very verysmall smallartichoke artichoke hearts heartsororlarge largehearts heartscut using iutinto into slices. slices. Artichoke hearts heartsài laIatartare. tartare. FONDS FoNDsD'ARTICHAUTS D'ARTrcHAUrs ÀALA Artichoke u TARTARE - - Cook Cookartichoke artichokehearts heartsininaawhite whitecourt-bouillon court-bouillon TARTARE (q.v.);drain, drain,dry dry and andcut cut into into slices. slices.Arrange Arrange ininan anhorshors(q.v.); d'euvre dish dishwith with Tartare Tartare sauce (ser-,SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). d'œuvre Garnish with with aaborder yolks of border of of the theyolks ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and Garnish parsley,arranged chopped parsley, arranged ininseparate separate rows. rows. Surround Surround with with chopped half slices of ofcooked cooked beetroot, beetroot, cut cutwith withaa fiuted-edged fluted-edged knife. knife. halfslices artichokes. QUARTIERS D'ARTrcHAUrs -- Tender Quartered articbokes. euARTrERs D'ARTICHAUTS Tender Quartered quartered artichokes prepared as artichokes are are prepared as an an hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, quartered following the instructions given the instructions given for for artichoke artichoke hearts hearts and following and whole artichokes. artichokes. whole Assiette anglaise anglaise -- Assortment Assortment of of different different kinds kinds of of cold cold Assiette meat, usually usually York York ham; ham; pickled pickled tongue; tongue; entrecôte, entrec6te, fiUet fillet or or meat, roast beef; beef; veal; veal; pork, pork, arranged arranged on plate. on aa plate. roast jelly, watercress Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly, gherkins. watercress and and gherkins. Garnish Assiette anglaise anglaise is is mainly mainly served served for for luncbeon luncheon.. Assielle Assorted bors-d'œuvre. hors-d'cuvre. ASSIETTE ASSIETTE ASSORTIE, AssoRTIE, ASSIETTE ASSIETTE vOvoAssorted LANTE -- An An assortment assortment of of different different kinds kinds of of hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, LANTE mainly salted salted items, items, cut cut into very very small small slices. slices. mainly BarErettes -- Small Small oval-shaped oval-shaped patties patties made made of of pastry, Barquettes baked blind, garnished with blind, garnished with ditferent (see BARdifferent fillings fillings (see BARbaked Items whicb which can be used as garnishes for QUETTES). Items for pastry QUETTES). boats include include anchovy anchovy in in salpicon salpicon or or anchovy anchovy scrolls, boats scrolls, smoked eel, eel, beetroot, beetroot, special special compound compound butters butters for for horssmoked d'Guure, caviare, pickled cucumber, caviare, pickled cucumber, prawns, prawns, shrimps, d'œuvre, crayfish, foie gras, pickled herrings, herrings, lobster lobster and and crawfish, crawfiih, gras, pickled crayfish, different vegetables in ditferent vegetables in salpicon or cut into slices, poached mussels, eggs, plovers' eggs, mussels, olives, olives, hard-boiled eggs, eggs, red red and green different sausages, green peppers, peppers, different sausages, marinated marinated tunny, tunny, tomatoes, matoes, truffies. truffies. The The following following serve serve as as decorations decorations for for these these various various pastry pastry boats: boats: capers, capers, gherkins, gherkins, beetroot, beetroot, chopped chopped jelly, jelly, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, fresh fresb parsley, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, lettuce. lettuce. The The following following are a few examples. All Ali recipes recipes given for filling canapés and and tartlets tartlets apply apply to to barquettes,which barquelles, which filling patties, patties, canapis are are generally generally served served on on aa paper paper doyley. doyley. On On the the menu menu they they are are often often called called frivolitis, frivolités, a a name name originally originally given given them them by by Escoffier. Escoffier. Bagratiu ETTEs BAcRATToN Bagration barErettes. barquettes. BARet BARQUETTES BAGRATION -- Garnish Garnish the the barquetres barquelles with with aa thin thin layer layer of of cold Chicken Chicken purie purée (see (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). Cover Coyer this this pur6e purée alternately alternately with with thin thin slices slices of of breast breast of of chicken chicken and and truffies. truffles. Spoon Spoon half-set half-set jelly jelly into into the tbe barquettes. barquelles. Beauharnais Beauharnais barqrettes. barquettes. BAReTJETTES BARQUETTES BEAUHARNATs BEAUHARNAIS -- GarGarnish barquelles with with aa salpicon salpicon of ofbreast breast of of chicken chicken and and nish the the barquettes trufles. truffles. Cover Coyer this this garnish garnish with witb aa layer layer of of mayonnaise, mayonnaise, to to which of tarragon tarragon and and aa little little gelatine gelatine has has been been whicb aa puree purée of added. added. Decorate Decorate with with tiny tiny pieces pieces of oftrufres truffles and and cover coyer with with jelly. jelly. BarErettes Barquettesià lalacancalaise cancalaise-- Garnish Garnish the thebarquetteJ barquelleswith with aa mousse moussemade madefrom from whiting whitingor orother otherwhite whitefish. fish .poach, Poach, drain drain and in each each and trim trim some sorne oysters. oysters. Lay Lay these these on on the the mousse mousse in barquette barquelleand and spoon spoonover oversome sornejelly. jeUy. Marivaux Marivaux barErettes. barquettes. BAReuETTEs BARQUETIES MARTVAUx MARIVAUX -- Fill Fil! the the barquettes barquelles with witb aa salpicon salpicon of of shrimps shrimps and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with gelatine-strengthenod gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with withrounds roundsofofhard-boiled bard-boiledeggs eggsand andchervil. chervil.Coat Coatwith withjelly. jelly. Barquettes Barquettesi àlalanormande normande-- Garnish Garnishthe thebarquettes barquelleswith withaa salpicon salpiconofoffillets fiUetsofofsole, sole,mussels musselsand andtrufles. truffies. Coat Coat the the barquettes barquelles with with aa white white meatless meatless Chaud-froid Chaud-froid

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

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sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put 1 poached poached oyster oyster and and 22 shelled shelled crayfish crayfish tails tails on on each each boat. boat. Spoon Spoon over over some sorne jelly. jelly.

Beef, BOEUF rr-rrraf FUMÉ -- Cut Cut the the meat meat into into very very thin thin Beef, moked. smoked. BoELJF

slices. Serve Serve in in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish or or on on aa plate, plate, arranged arranged slices. flat fiat or or rolled ralled into into cornets. cornets. Garnish Garnish with with parsley. parsley. Smoked Smoked beef beef is is also also used used as as aa garnish garnish for for canapis. canapés. Beehoot. Beetroot. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE -- Beetroot Beetroot can can be be bought bought cooked cooked in in greengrocers' greengrocers' shops shops or or itit can can be be prepared prepared at at home. home. It It isis mainly mainly used used for for salads. salads. slices. Arrange Peel cooked beetroot Peel the thecooked beetroot and and cut cut itit into into thin thinslices. Arrange in in an an hors-d'uuvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Season Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Beetroot cassolettes cassolettes - See See BEETROOT. BEETROOT. Beetroot Beetroot Beetroot ià lacrime. la crème. BETTERAYE BETTERAVE A À u, LA cnilc CRÈME -- Cut Cut the the beetbeetroot root into fine fine matchsticks. matchsticks. Season Season with with a a Mustard Mustard cre(xn cream euvre dish. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve in in hors-d hors-d'œuvre di~h. sauce (se Beetroot Beetroot and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. BETTERAVE BETTERAVE ET ET oELJFS OEUFS DURs DURS Take equal quantities of cooked beetroot beetroot and and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, both both cut into dice. Season as for Anchovies Anchovies and and hard hard boiled boi/ed eggs (see above). above). Beetroot Beetroot Ià la nomande. normande. BETTERAvE BETTERAVE A A LA NonMlNos NORMANDE -- Cut Cut beetroot beetroot and tart apples apples into slices and arrange alternately alternately on an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Surround Surround with with a ring ring of of chopped chives. Season with Vinaigrette sauce (see Season with (see SAUCE) made made with wi th cider cider vinegar. eor DE Beetroot Beetroot salad. salado slt SALADE DE BETTERAVE BETTERAVE - This salad is is served served with a a Vinaigrette or a a Cream sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) as as indiindisalad bowl' cated above. Serve Serve inanhors-d'euvre in an hors-d'œuvre dish dish or or in aa salad bowl. Bonch6es- See Patties below. BouchéescARNIES garnished. snlocHes Brioches, small gamished. BRIOCHES MIcNoNNES MIGNONNES GARNIESBrioches, (see BRIOCHE) out tAte (see d tête snnall Brioches à Take very very small BRIOCHE) scoop out garnishes any of ofthe fill with any ofthe three-quarters of the dough and fill the garnishes similar preparations. usually served with tartlets and other similar preparations. as same vunrs-Prepare cHolrx VERTS Cabbagg green. CHOUX Cabbage, - Prepare in the sa me way as Red cabbage, below. mediumwash aa mediumTrim and and wash RoucE -- Trim cnoux ROUGE Cabbage, red. CHOUX put them into into sized cabbage. Cut it into very fine small strips, put pint, li lt cups) boiling boiling vinegar. dl. (t pint, and pour over 33 dl. aa dish and with oil, oil, and se season for 55 hours. Drain Drain and well and and leave for Mix weil as on with and pepper. salt and it isis steeped steeped in in the be blanched blanched before it Red cabbage can can be Red vinegar. very pieces of make aa very garnished pieces of toast toast make Small garnished Canapes - Small Canapés ways. in two ways. be served served in They can can be hors-d'euvre. They attractive hors-d'œuvre. attractive and cut cut the the sandwich loaf and offaa sandwich crusts off Cut the crusts First method. method. Cut First pieces of of into small small pieces the slices slices into Cut the slices. Cut thin slices. breadinto bread into thin without sides without on both both sides these on Toast these forms. Toast and forms. shapes and various various shapes browning. over over browning. plain or plain compound or one side side with with aa compound on one spread on When cool, cool, spread When to the the preparation, according according to suitable preparation, other suitable or any any other butter, butter, or Instructions accordingly. Instructions Garnish accordingly. desired. Garnish of canapé canapi desired. kind kind of paper on aa paper Arrange on found below. below. Arrange be found can be for decorating decorating can for plate or dish. or dish. doyley, napkin, napkin, plate doyley, loaf of aa sandwich sandwich loaf large slices slices of Toast large method. Toast Second method. Second any or any with butter butter or spread with cool spread When sides. Wh on both both sides. lightly on Iightly en cool canapis of of cut into into canapés and cut preparation. Garnish, Garnish, and suitable preparation. other suitable other Decorate. various shapes. shapes. Decorate. various kind are are to to be be served, served, the same same kind great many of the muny canapés canapis of If aa great If The toast toast can can also also be be recommended. The the second second method method isis recommended. the brioche unsweetened brioche or with with ordinary ordinary unsweetened of black black bread bread or made of made (baked in possible). tin ifif possible). in aa rectangular rectangular tin (baked may be be listed below, below, canapés canapis may recipes listed to the the recipes In addition addition to ln fish, of meat, meat, fish, kinds of Different kinds prepared in ways. Different many ways. in many prepared into or made made into into thin thin slices slices or cut into etc., cut truffies, etc., vegetables, truffles, vegetables, garnishes. used as as garnishes. can be be used salpicons, can salpicons, gherkins, eggs, capers, capers, gherkins, hard-boiled eggs, with hard-boiled Decorate canapés canapis with Decorate parsley, mushrooms, parsley, trufles, mushrooms, cucumber, truffies, olives, beetroot, beetroot, cucumber, olives,· chervil, tarragon, tarragon, etc. etc. chervil,

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Preparation Preparation of of various various canapEs canapés;: radishes, radishes, tomato€s. tomatoes, cucumber cucumber

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Archovy Anchovy canapescanapés - See See ANCHOVY. AN CHOVY. Aurora Aurora canap6s. canapés. clNlpfs CANAPÉS A À L'AunoRE L'AURORE - Slice Slice a a round round ununsweetened sweetened brioche brioche loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with yellow yellow butter. butter. smoked salmon, Garnish Garnish with with aa thin thin slice slice of of smoked salmon, put put a a round round of of beetroot beetroot in in the the middle, middle, sprinkle sprinkle with with minced minced yolk yolk of of hardhardsurround with boiled boiled egg, egg, and and surround with a a border border of of yellow yellow butter. butter. sandwich loaf, Canapds Canapés ià la la bayonnaise bayonnaise -- Slice Slice aa sandwich loaf, toast, toast, and and slices of spread with spread with parsley parsley butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with very very thin thin slices of Bayonne Bayonne ham. ham. and loaf, toast, Slice a sandwich loaf, Canap6s ià la Canapés la bordelaise bordelaise -- Slice a sandwich toast, and cooked of cooked salpicon of withaa salpicon Garnish with butter. Garnish with Shallot Shallot butter. spread with spread of Paprika and surround surround with and lean lean ham, cdpes and cèpes ha m, and with aa border border of Paprika (see BUTTER, butters). Compound butters). butter (see butter BUTTER, Compound sandSlice aa sandAU CAVIAR cAvIAR -- Slice clttlpfs AU caviare. CANAPÉS with caviare. Canap6s witb Canapés slices the slices brioche; the unsweetened brioche; or unsweetened loaf, brown brown loaf wich Joaf, wich loaf or (s@ butter (see Caviare butter wfth Caviare spread with and spread Toast, and round. Toast, should be be round. should Surround butter. Surround fresh butter. or with fresh butters) orwith Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound BUTTER, Garnish the butter. Garnish of caviare caviare butter. high border border of fairly high with aa fairly with the pinch of of chives. chives. with aa pinch Sprinkle with fresh caviare. caviare. Sprinkle with fresh centre with centre pressed caviare, but caviare, but with pressed made with be made can also also be These canapés canapis can These so delicate. delicate. not be be so they will will not they the Follow the fcnrvtssEs - Follow eux ÉCREVISSES c,c,NA,pts AUX canap6s. CANAPÉS Crayfish canapés. Crayfish butter (see below), Crayfish butter using Crayfish below), using canapis (see for Shrimp recipe for Shrimp canapés recipe instead tails instead crayfish tails and crayfish (see BUTTER, butters) and Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound (see shrimps. of shrimps. of rectangular loaf of of rectangular dark rye Slice aa dark la danoise danoise -- Slice Canap6s àI la rye loaf Canapés (see butter (see Horseradish butter with Horseradish spread with and spread toast, and shape, toast, shape, strips garnish thin with and butters), Compound BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters), and garnish with thin strips Separate of herring. Separate fillets ofherring. with fillets alternating with salmon alternating of smoked salmon ofsmoked with aa surround with and surround caviare, and little fresh fresh caviare, fish by by aa little of fish the strips strips of the chives. of chopped chopped chives. border of border sandwich Slice aa sandwich ARLEQUIN -- Slice c.lNlp6s ARLEQUTN canap€s. CANAPÉS Harlequin canapés. Harlequin Garnish butter. Garnish compound butter. with aa compound spread with and spread loaf, toast, toast, and loaf, smoked eggs, smoked of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, and whites whites of yolks and with chopped chopped yolks with thin with aa thin parsley, etc. Surround with etc. Surround trufles, parsley, ham, truffies, tongue, ham, tongue, butter. of compound compound butter. border of border of different different mixture of garnished with with aa mixtur~ be garnished can be These canapés canap6s can These left-overs the left-overs prepared last, last, so so the garnish isis prepared preparations. The The garnish preparations. dish. this dish. up for for this used up be used can be ofspecial canap6s can of special canapés recipe the recipe Use the HARENGs -- Use Atrx HARENGS ceNrtpfs AUX Herring canapés. canapes. CANAPÉS Herring Herring (see ANCHOVY), substituting Herring ANCHOVY), substituting canapis (see for Anchovy Anchovy canapés for of fillets of and fillets butters) and (see BUTTER, Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound butter (see butter for the the anchovy. anchovy. herring for herring kinds of of garnished different kinds with different be garni can be canapis can These canapés These shed with herrings. herrings. and toast, and loat toast, sandwich loaf, Slice aasandwich la hollandaise hollandaise -- Slice Canapes àI la Canapés fillets with fillets Garnish with roes. Garnish herring raes. pur6e of soft herring of soft spread with with aa purée spread

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461

HORS.D(EUVRE HORS-DŒUVRE

of herring arranged in criss-cross pattern. pattern.Fill Filleach each of herring arranged in aacriss-cross opening with chopped parsley. opening with chopped parsley. CanapesLaguipilre- I ozenge-shapd, canapis of ordinary Canapés Laguipière - Lozenge-shaped canapés of ordinary unsweetened brioche bread, toasted, and spread witir unsweetened bread, toasted, and spread with Trffie butter brioche (see BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Truffle butter (see BUITER, Compound butters). Gamish with slices of breast ofchicken, and decorate the points of the with slices of breast of chicken, and decorate the poin ts of the lozenges with chopped pickled or smoked iongue and lozenges with chopped pickled or smoked tongue and chopped trufres. Surround with a border of yellow butter. chopped truffles. Surround with a border of yellow butter. Canap€sA la livonienne- Slice a rectangulai rye loaf, toast, Canapés à la livonieone - Slice a rectangular rye loaf, toast, and spread tith Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, Comand spread with Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiIlets alternatpound butters). Garnish with slivers of herring fiUets alternating with thin ribbons of tart apples. Brush fightly with oil and ing with thin ribbons of tart apples. Brush lightly with oil and surround with a border of chopped chives. surround with a border of chopped chives.

Canat's decorated with hard-boiled eggs and green beans Canapés decorated wilh hard·boiled eggs and green beans

L$stcr canapes. caNepss AU HoMARD - Follow the recipe canapés. CANAPÉS AU HOMARD - Follow the recipe ^ Lobster for Shrimp canapis (see below), substitutin g Lobster butier for Shrimp canapés (see below), substituting Lobster butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and pieces of lobster. (see BUITER, Compound butters) and pieces of lobster. Monselet canapes. c.lnepfs MoNsELET - Trim slices of Monselet canapés. CANAPÉS MONSELET - Trim slices of sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread with sandwich loaf into oval shapes, toast, and spread with yellow butter. Garnish with a border of small round slices of yeUow butter. Gamish with a border of small round slices of breast of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with equally small rounds of pickled or smoked pickled or smoked tongue. tongue. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with aa salpicon salpicon of of trufres and surround with a border of yellow butter. truBles and surround with a border of yellow butter. Mont-Bry canap6s. c,tNApEs il,roNr-siv - Slice unsweetened Mont-Bry canapés. CANAPÉS MONT-BRY - Slice unsweetened brioche, toast, and spread with Herring butter (seeBUTTER, brioche, toast, and spread with Herring butter (see BUITER, butters). .Compound Compound butters). Garnish Gamish with with fillets fillets of of herring, herring, alternatalternating with evenly cut strips of beetroot and gherkins. Surround ing with evenly cut strips of beetroot and gherkins. Surround *itl u border with a border of ofchopped chopped yolks yolks of ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Canap€s i la mosovite - Slice a square blaik rye loaf, Canapés à la moscovite - Slice a square black rye loaf, toast, and spread with Horseradish butter (see BUTTER, toast, and spread with Horseradish butter (see BUITER, Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter mixed Compound butters). Surround with a border of butter mixed with the coral of spiny lobsters. Fill the centre with fresh with the coral of spiny lobsters. FiU the centre with fresh caviare and decorate with shrimp tails. caviare and decorate with shrimp tails. Canapes I la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim Canapés à la nantaise - Slice sandwich bread thin and trim the slices into long oval shapes. Toast, and spread with the slices into long oval shapes. Toast, and spread with Sgrdine butter (see BUTTER, Compound butteri). Garnish Sardine butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Gamish with fillets of sardines in oil from which all the bones and with fillets of sardines in oil from which aU the bones and skin have been carefully removed, and garnish with sardine skin have been carefully removed, and gamish with sardine butter in such avray as to make tbe canapis look like fish. butter in such a way as to make the canapés look like fish. Canapds Ninon - Trim slices of sandwich bread into oval Canapés Ninon - Trirn slices of sandwich bread into oval shapes, toast" and spread with Printanier butter (see shapes, toast, and spread with Printanier butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish with a border of BUITER, Compound butters). Garnish with a border of small thin rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with smaU thin rounds of breast of chicken, alternating with rounds of truffes. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into very rounds of truffies. Fill the centre with lean ham cut into very small dice. small dice. 462 462

parisienneCanapdsàtlalaparisienne Slicea arectangular rectangularsandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, Canapés - Slice t_oast,and andspread spreadwith withbutter buttermixed mixedwith pounddchervil. withpounded chervil. toast, Garnishwith withsmall, small,thin thinslices slicesof ofbreast breastof olchic chicken coated ken coated Garnish gelatine-strengthenedmayonnaise withgelatine-strengthened mayonnaiseand anddecorated decoratedwith with with trurflesand andtarragon tarragon leaves. leaves.Surround Surround with withaaborder borderofof truffies jelly. chopped jelly. chopped Canapds àt lalaprintanière printanibre - - Trim Trimslices slicesof ofsandwich sandwich loaf Canapés loaf intorounds, rounds, toast, toast,and andspread spreadwith with Montpellier Montpellierbutter (see butter (see into BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). butters).Garnish Garnishwith withleaves leavesofwaterof waierBUTTER, cress, altemating alternating with with thin thinround round slices slicesof ofcarrots carrots cooked cookedinin cress, clear stock. stock.Spoon Spoon over over aathin jelly and thinlayer layslof of meat meat jelly clear and sursurroundwith border of ofchopped choppedyolks yolksof ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. round with aaborder Canapdsài lala reine reine-- Trim Trim slices slices of of unsweetened unsweetened brioche bii,oche Canapés into rounds, rounds, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with Truffle Trufie butter (see butter (see into BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters).Garnish Garnish with with aa salpicon salpicon of BUTTER, of breast of of chicken, chicken, decorate decorate with with lozenge-shaped lozenge-shaped slices ilices of of breast truffie, and and surround surround with with aa border border of yellow butter. of yellow butter. truffie, Russian salad salad canapés. canap6s. CANAPÉS canepfs ÀA LA re RUSSE nusse -- Slice Russian Slice aa sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with butter butter aux aux fines sandwich fines herbes. Surround Surround with with aa border border of yellow butter, of yellow butter, fi.!l fili the herbes. the centre with Rzssl'an (se salad SALAD) decorate decorate with centre with Russian salad (see SALAD) with gsnl trufres, and cover cover with with aa thin fhin coat of ofjelly. jelly. truffles, and Shrimpcanap€s. cl,N,uEsAUx cREvETTEs-- Slice Slice aa rounded rounded Shrimp canapés. CANAPÉS AUX CREVEITES sandwich loaf loaf or or cut cut out out rounds rounds from from square square slices. slices. Toast, Toast, sandwich and spread spread with with Shrimp Shrimp butter (see BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compounil and butters). Garnish Garnish with with shrimps shrimps arranged arranged in in aa rosette. rosette. SurSurbutters). round with with aa border border of of shrimp shrimp butter butter or or with with chopped chopped round parsley. parsley. Smoked eel eel canapés. canapds. CANAPÉS cANApEs À A L'ANGUILLE L'ANGUTLLE FUMÉE FuMfE -* Slice Smoked Slice aa round sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, and and spread spread with with Mustard butter butter round or with with Horseradish Horseradish butter (se BUITER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound or butters). Garnish Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of smoked smoked eel, eel, and and surbutters). round with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks and egg yolks chives, chopped and chives, round separately. separa tely. Canapds witb with spiny spiny lobster. CANAPÉS ceNlp6s DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrs -- FolCanapés low the fot Shrimp canapés, canapis, using Spl'zy lobster lobster butter using Spiny low the recipe recipe for (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and slices slices of of spiny (see BUITER, Compound butters) and lobster or spiny lobster cut into dice. lobster or spiny lobster Canapes Canapés with with pickled pickled tongue. tongue. clNep6s CANAPÉS A À r'Eclnt,nre L'ÉCARLA TE _ - Slice a a sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and spread with paprika Paprika butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters). Garnish with thin slicej slices of pickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue tongue or or with with tongue tongue cut cut into very small dice. of paprika paprika butter. butter. dice. Surround Surround with with a border of Canap6s Canapés Ià la la Veron Veron - Slice Slice adquare a.....quare black black rye loaf, toast, and Horseradish hutter butter (see BUTTER, BUITER, ComComand spread spread with with Horseradish pound pound butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with thin thin slices slices of of Bayonne Bayonne ham ham and and surround of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolks yolks and and parsley parsley surround with with aa border border of chopped chopped up up in in equal equal proportions. proportions. Watelrress Watercress canapds. canapés. caNlpfs CANAPÉS AU AU cREssoN CRESSON -- Slice Slice aa sandsandwich wich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with aa butter butter made made like like Tarragon Tarragon butter (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters), butters), substituting substituting butter (see watercress watercress leaves leaves for for the the tarragon. tarragon. Garnish Garnish with with leaves leaves ol of blanched blanched watercress watercress and and surround surround with with aa border border of ofchopped chopped hard hard boiled boiled eggs. eggs. Canapds Canapés with witb York York ham. bam. cnNApfs CANAPÉS AÀ re LA yoRKArs YORKAISE -- Slice Slice aa sandwich sandwich loaf, loaf, toast, toast, and and spread spread with with Chivry Chivry butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUITER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Garnish Gamish with with thin thin slices slices of of York York ham, ham, and and surround surround with withaaborder borderof ofchopped chopped parsley. parsley. Carolines Carolines-- Small Small6clairs éclairsmade madeof ofunsweetenA unsweetened Chou Choupaste paste (see (seeDOUGH), DOUGH),garnished garni shedtototaste tastewith withdifferent differentprepa.atio.rs preparations y9h-a! such as mousses mousses or or pur6es purées made made of ofshrimps, shrimps, prawns, prawns, craycrayfish, fish, lobster, lobster, spilV spiny lobster,foie lobster, foie gras, gras, salmon,iole, salmon, sole, poultry, poultry, game, are coated coated with with aa Chaud-froid Chaud-froidsauie sauce game, etc. etc. The The 6clairs éclairs are (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) in in keeping keeping with with the the filling, fiUing, and and glazed glazed with with jelly. jelly.Arrange Arrangethem themon onaapaper paperdoyley. doyley. Caroline Caroline6clairs éclairs can can also alsobe befilled filled with withsalpicons salpiconsblended blended with with chaud-froid chaud-froidsauce, sauce, or or with with mayonnaise mayonnaise ororjelly. jelly. They They can canalso alsobebegarnished garnishedwith withfresh freshcaviare. caviare.

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

i

for as for L'rNoInNNE -- Proceed Eel Ee1 à I'indienne. J'indienne. ANcuTLLE ANGUILLE A À L'INDIENNE Proceed as

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Caviare - The The word word 'caviare' 'caviare' generally generally indicates indicates fresh fresb Caviare caviare, i.e. i.e. the the roe roe of of one one of of the the members members of of the the sturgeon caviare, family. family. In Russia, Russia, the the roe roe of other fish fish such as as soudac, soudac, trout, trout, In are prepared salmon, perch, perch, pike pike and sigui are prepared in the same sa me way. salmon, These inferior inferior products products cannot cannat be be sold in in France as caviare. caviare. These Salted and and pressed pressed caviares are also on the market, but Salted their flavour flavour is is not not as as good as that that ofthe of the real real caviare. their Fresh caviare caviare is is served served in in its its original container container surrounded surrounded Fresh by crushed ice, ice, or in special special containers containers also surrounded surrounded by by ice. Caviare Caviare should should be be delicately delicately handled. handled. It is is usually ice. with thin thin slices slices of of rye rye bread bread lightly lightly buttered, buttered, or with a served with Russian pancake pancake called blini blini (q.v.). Russian Lemon and and chopped chives are are provided when when serving Lemon caviare for each each diner diner to help help himself. caviare Caviare barquettes or tartlets. BARQUETTES, TARTELETTES Garnish AU cAvIAR CAVIAR - Use very small barquettes barquettes or tartlets. Garnish AU fresh caviare. Serve on a paper paper doyley. with fresh cAVIAR Small brioches brioches with witb crviere. caviare. PETITES PETITES BRIocIrEs BRIOCHES AU CAVIAR Smdl Brioches d à tête BRIOCHE) made from tdte (see BRIOCHE) small Brioches Use very small and fiU fill with with unsweetened dough. dough. Hollow out the brioches and unsweetened fresh caviare. Serve on a paper doyley. quickly, drain, CÉLERI-RAVE Celeriac. cft rnt-nlve-- Cut into dice, cook quickly, Celerirc. season with oil and vinegar, mayonnaise or mustard. season Celery àI la grecque. CÉLERI A À LA rl GRECQUE cnrcQur -- Trim and wash grecEre. cELBl in the the the celery, cut the the hearts into quarters and and prepare in the grec(W (see above). same Artichokes àd la grecque as Artichokes same way as preserved cherries. BIGARcherries. BIGARcalled preserved vinegar, also caJJed Cherries in vinegar, REAUX cherries. firm white heart cherries. vINAIcRE -- Choose very finn REAttx AU VINAIGRE Cut their stalks by two-thirds. jar. Sprinkle with very very small small Put them in an an earthenware earthenware jar. pieces over boiling boiling vinegar pieces of leaf. Pour Pour over bay leaf. of thyme thyme and and bay seasoned lid and and cloves. Coyer Cover the jug with aa lid seasoned with salt, and 2 cloyes. keep cool. Leave to infuse for for 15 15 days. Serve the with dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. the cherries cherries in the marinade. Cherries as preserved in served separately separately as in vinegar vinegar are are served Cherries preserved hors-d'œuvre Id or hot dishes. hot meat dishes. hors-d'euvre or with co cold Crayfish. tails seasoned seasoned with with Diced crayfish crayfish tails Coynsn. ÉCREVISSES fcnBvrssns -- Diced oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or or with aa mayonnaise. mayonnaise. put them CQcumbers. them fresh cucumbers, cucumbers, put Dice fresh coNcQMBREs- Dice Cucumbers. CONCQMBRESin salt, with salt, Serve seasoned seasoned with with salt. salt. Serve sprinkle with in aa dish dish and and sprinkle pepper, pepper, vinegar and and oil. oil. Cucumber re GRECQUE Cut grecEre. CONCOMBRES cREcQUE -- Cut coNcoMBREs ÀA LA la grecque. Cucumber àI la the proceed as la picces and for Artichokes Artichokes àd la as for and proceed into pieces the çucumber cucumber into grecque (see above) grec(W (see for 10 l0 or or 12 12 minutes. minutes. cook only only for but cook above) but Cucumber the cucuPeel the sALADE - Peel EN SALADE salad. CONCOMBRES coNcoMBREs EN Chcumber salado cumbers thin slices. slices. into very very thin lengthwise into them lengthwise cumbers and and cut cut them Put leave them them salt and and leave with fine fine salt sprinkle with them on cloth, sprinkle Put them on aa cloth, to season Drain, dry, dry, and and season for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, to render liquor for render their their liquor with pepper, parsley parsley and chervil. and chopped chopped chervil. vinegar, pepper, with oil, oil, vinegar, Fresh be added. added. Fresh cream cream may may be Cucumber FARcIS salad. CONCOMBRES coNcouBRss FARCIS witr vegetable vegeteble salado sfufrd with Clrcumber stufJed pntNrlNdnn - Cut ÀA LA pieces and and into pieces large cucumber cucumber into Cut aa large le PRINTANIÈRE blanch give to give out to hollow out and hollow dry, and Drain, dry, in salted water. Drain, blanch in salted water. them salad: vegetable salad: Fill with with aa vegetable of cassolettes. cassolettes. Fill the shape them the shape of carrots, peas blended with blended with and peas French beans, beans, and diced French carrots, turnips, turnips, diced thick vinegar. with oil and vinegar. oil and thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Éc1airs éclairs with pur6e, coat game purée, coat with aa game Stuffeclairs la Karo1y Karoly -- Stuff Ectain àI la with glaze over (se SAUCE) over and glaze SAUCE) and sauce (see with aa brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce with jelly. with jelly. EeJ. and general method of cleaning cleaning and method of For the the general lNcull-r.s -- For Eel. ANGUILLE cooking, as hot hot be served servedas which can can be Various dishes dishes which cooking, see see EEL. EEL. Various or vert, are also are also particularly Eels Eels au ail vert, or cold cold hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, particularly described EEL. described in in the the section section EEL. Commachio kindof of This kind DECOMMACHIO lNcutrr,E DE coMMAcHIo - - This Commachio eel. eel. ANGUILLE salted Servein in used as as hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Serve only used and smoked eel isis only salted and smoked eel an dish. an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'ervre dish.

with aa court-bouillon court'bouillon Eel dà I'italienne l'italienne (se (see below). below). Moisten Moisten with the terrine with with the Put into seasoned with with curry curry powder. powder. Put into aa terrine it isis before it cooled before completely cooled liquid. liquid. This This dish dish must must be be completely served. thin slices slices of of quartered pimentos and thin eels with Garnish eels with quartered pimentos and salt. Sprinkle Sprinkle with salt. raw tomatoes which have been been sprinkled with has been been eel has in which which the the eel liquor in the liquor dish with the the whole who le dish with the cooked. an eel eel Cut an r'nlttsNr.re -- Cut A L'ITALIENNE ANcuILLE À ltitalienne. ANGUILLE Eel ài l'italienne. Ee1 (2-inch) pieces. pieces. (li lb.) into g. (li into 5-cm. S-crn. (2-inch) weighing 750 g. leaves, on on small small bay leaves, pieces, separated by bay separated by Thread the the pieces, Thread season dish, season in an an oiled dish, the skewers in all the wooden skewers. Put ail in the the oyen. oven. minutes in for 12 12 minutes with oil. oil. Cook Cook for and sprinkle sprinkle with and the skewers. pieces of skewers. from the of eel eel from the pieces Drain and and rem remove Drain ove the terrine. Arrange them in aa terrine. Arrange (6 tabledl. (6 tableand 1I dl. pint, scant vinegar and scant cup) cup) vinegar dl. (t Put 22 dl. $ pint, has eel has the eel in which the dish in cup) water into the dish scant + cup) spoons, scant! pinch of of and aa pinch cloves and sugar, 44 cloyes been cooked. Add aa lump of sugar, pour over the over the and pour for 55 minutes, and this court-bouillon for salt. Boil this salt. place, and for leave for and leave cool place, into aa very cool the terrine, terrine,put Cover the eel. Coyer put into serving. days before serving. 2 or 3 days jelly with the the jelly and coyer cover with dish and hors-d'euvre dish on an an hors-d'œuvre Arrange on Arrange terrine. inthe formed in which has fonned the terrine. EN vIN DE DE CHABLIS, cHABLIS, EN AU VIN lucutrI,E AU eel in in Chablis. Chablis. ANGUILLE Jellied eel Jellied pieces and in concentrated concentrated cook in and cook small eels eels into pieces cnrEs -- Cut Cut small GELÉE put pieces and and put the pieces prepared with Drain the with Chablis. Chablis. Drain stock prepared fish stock fish has the eel eel has liquid in in which which the the liquid Clarify the small terrine. terrine. Clarify into aa smaU into ice. pour over on ice. Cool on the dish. dish. Cool over the cooked and and pour been cooked vIN AU VIN DTlnINEg AU lrqculrr-e MARINÉE in red red wine. wine. ANGUILLE Eel marlnated marinated in Ee1 white marinated inin white for Eel Eel marinated as described described for RoucE -- Proceed Proceed as ROUGE court-bouillon. (see below), but for the the court-bouillon. red wine wine for use red but use wine (see wine vINAIcRE AU VINAIGREMenrNEE AU ANGUILLE MARINÉE vinegar. ANGUILLE in vinegar. Ee1 Eel marlnated marinated in (see wine (see in white white wine Eel marinated marinated in for Eel Proceed described for as described Proceed as courtfor the the courtwine for of white white wine instead of vinegar instead use vinegar below) but use below) but bouillon. bouillon. AU VIN vIN r,rRrNEu AU lNcunrn MARINÉE wine. ANGUILLE in white white wine. Ee1 narinated in Eel marinated in pieces. Cook onions in minced onions Cook minced into pieces. eel into the eel BLANc -- Cut Cut the BLANC place and place pan with with the the onion onion and Line aa shallow shallow pan soft. Line butter until until soft. butter COURTXll(see with Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII Cover with eel on on them. them. Coyer the eel the (see COURTgarni. Cook for 20 20 Cook for large bouquet bouquet garni. Add aa large BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Add liquor. in its its liquor. the eel eel in and cool cool the minutes minutes and with Proceed witb L'oRrcNtAt-B -- Proceed ANcuILLE ÀA L'ORIENTALE Eel Eel ài l'orienta1e. I'oricntale. ANGUILLE (see below). below). I'orientale (see pieces, as Red mullet mullet àd l'orientale for Red asfor into pieces, eel, eel, cut cut into

It

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stuffed Preparing cucumber totobebestuffed sectionsof ofcucumber Preparingsections with salad vegetable salad withvegetable

463 463

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE (Kiel). ANGUILLE Smoked eel eel(Kiel). ANGTJTLLE fUMÉE rurram DE DE KIEL KIEL - - Cut Cut the theeel eel Smoked into fillets fillets or very thin orvery thin slices. slices. Garnish Garnish with parsleyand with fresh fresh parsley and into halfslices slicesof of lemon lemoneut cut with with aafluted fluted cutter. cutter. half Smoked eel edcanapés canapes -- See See Canapés Canapds above. above. Smoked Eel in in verjuice. ANGUTLLE AU veriuice. ANGUILLE AU VERJUS vERJUs - - Cut pieces. Cut the the eel eelin in pieces. Eel Cook chopped chopped onions gently in onionsgently in butter. butter. Line Line the the bottom bottom of of aa Cook pan with flat pan with the the onions place the onions and and place pieces of the pieces of eel eel on on top. top. fiat Season. Add garni. Moisten Add aa bouquet bouquet garni. Moisten with with verjuice verjuice and and Season. white wine wine in in equal quantities. Finish equal quantities. Finish the the dish dish as asfor for Eel Eel white marinated inin white (see above). white wine wine (see above). marina/ed Eggs, bard-boiled. hard-boiled. OEUFS orurs DURS DURs -- Cut Cut into into dice, dice, or or slice. slice. Eggs, Season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper or salt and and pepper or with with mayonmayonSeason naise. naise. Eggs, stulfed. stufred. OEUFS oEUFs FARCIS FARcrs -- Hard-boil Hard-boil the the eggs. eggs. Cut into Cut into Eggs, halves. Take Take out yolks and out the the yolks and mix mix these these with with whatever whatever halves. preparation isis used used as as stuffing. stuffing. Another Another way way of of stuffing stuffing eggs eggs preparation to eut cut aa little little off off atat both both cnds ends so so that that they they can can stand. stand. isis to yolks out Carefully take take the the yolks out without without brcaking breaking the the white. white. Carefully Stuffthe eggs to to tllste. taste. Arrange Arrange them them standing standing up looking up 100 like Stuff the eggs king like little barrels. barrels. little Salads and, salpicons salpicons can can be be used used as as stuffings stuffings for for eggs. eggs. Sa lads and Decorate the the halved halved eggs eggs or or the the little little barrel-shaped barrel-shaped eggs, eggs, Decorate jelly and glaze over over with with jelly and arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish dish or or glaze plate gamished garnished with on aa plate parsley. with curly curly parsley. on Eg stuffing sfuffing ài la la moscovite. moscovite. FARCE r,c,Rco D'OEUFS D'oEUFs À A LA r.c, MOSCOr{oscoEgg vIrE Pound 22 hard-boiled hard-boiled egg yolks. Add egg yolks. (3 Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 VITE .. Pound tablespoons) thick thick mayonnaise, mayonnaise, 1I tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped tablespoons) onions cooked cooked in in oil oil until until tender, tender, and and 1 1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onions parsley. Season with paprika and with salt salt and and paprika and mix well. parsley. Season mix weil. pLUvrER, DE vANNEAU Plovers' or or lapwings' lapwings' eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEUFs DE DE PLUVIER, Plovers' DE VANNEAUput the Hard-boil the peel Iwo-thirds the eggs eggs and and peel two-thirds of of each each one. one. Put the Hard-boil part of of the egg whieh which is is left left in the shell shell on on aa bed bed ofwatereress, of watercress, part the egg in the made like aa nes!. nest. The The merits of this hors-d'euvre lie lie merits of this hors-d'œuvre made to to look look Iike mainly in the rarity oftheeggs of the eggs and price. Lapwings' and their Lapwings' theu high high priee. mainly in the rarity eggs appear appear on on the about Easter. Easter. eggs the market market in in France France round round about Escablche of (Spani$ and of various fishes (Spamsh and Provençal Provengal Escabèche various fishes cookery). cookery). rscastcrs ESCABÈCHE DE DE ForssoNs POISSONS DwERs DIVERS - Wash Wash smelts, smelts, mackerels, mackerels, whitings, whitings, red red mullets, mullets, etc., etc., and and dry dry in in aa cloth. cloth. Dip Dip in in flour fioul' and and fry fry in in olive olive oil oil until until both both sides sides are are lightly Iightly coloured. over them. coJoured. Pour Pour boiling boiling court-bouillon court-bouillon over them. This This is is prepared prepared as as follows: follows: Heat the oil in which Heat the oil in which the the fish fish were were fried fried until untiJ itil begins begins to to smoke. dl. (scant smoke. Add, Add, for for 2+ 2~ dl. (seant}! pint, pint, general general cup) cup) oil, oil, 55 cloves Fry for for cloyes unpeeled unpeeled garlic, garlic, and and aa sliced sliced onion onion and and carrot. carrot. Fry aa few pint, I dl. few minutes minutes and and add add l| li dl. dl. $ (! pint, 31cup) cup) vinegar, vinegar,1 dl. (3 tablespoons, scant * cup) water, a sprig of thyme, half a (3 tablespoons, seant cup) watcr, a sprig of thyme, half a bay Cook for for bay leaf, leaf, some sorne parsley, parsley, 33 pimentos, pimentos, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Cook 10 to 12 minutes, pour over the fish, and leave to soak for 24 10 to 12 minutes, pour over the fish, and leave to soak for 24 hours. hours. Serve Serve cold cold with with the the marinade. marinade. Fanchonnettes FanchollIlettes -- See See Patties, Pallies, Fanchonnette Fanchonne//e patties, pallies, below. below. Fennd FellIlel roots. roots. FENourL FENOUIL BULBEUx BULBEUX -- Peel Peel and and wash wash the the bulbous bulbous part part of of the the fennel, fennel, cut eut into into halves halves or or quarters, quarters, and and serve serve with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Fennel '!iellIlel roots roots Ià lala grecEre. grecque. FENotm FENOUlL suLsnrx llULBEUX AÀLA LA GREceuE GRECQUECut Cut the the bulbous bulbous roots roots into into halves ha Ives or or quarters quarters and and proceed proceed as indicated for Artichokes d la grecque (see above). as indicated for A rtichokes à la grecque (see above). Fig$ Figs, fresh. fresh. Frcuts FIGUES rndcnrs FRAîCHES -- Serve Serve as as they they are. are. Arrange Arrange the the figs figs on on vine vine leaves leaves or, or, preferably, preferably, on on small small fig fig leaves. leaves. Or Or roll roll the,m them in in thin thin slices slices of ofParma Panna ham. ham. Frmhbeens. French bcans. HARrcors HARICOTS vERTsVERTS - Cook Cook in in salt salt water, water, drain, drain, cut cut into into dice, dice, season season with with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. fbogst GRENOUILLES-- For For the the general general preparation preparation of of Frogs' legs. legs. cnrwourllEs dishes disheswith withfrogs frogs legs legssee seeFROG. FROG. Frogst Frogs'legs legsiàlalagrecque. grecque.cRENourlrss GRENOUlLLESAÀr.A, LAcREceus GRECQUE-....Cook Cook frogs' frogs' legs legs rn in Court-bouillon Courl-bouillon I1(see (sec COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Leave to cool in the cooking Leave to cool in the cookingstock. stock. Garnish Gamishwith with rounds roundsofofpeeled peeled lemon. lemon.

Frogs' legs parisienne. GRENOlJlLLES legs àt la laparisicllIIe. cRENor.rrLLEs ÀALA LA PARISIENNEIARTsTENNE Frogs' Cook frogs' frogs' legs legs in in white white wine wine to to which whichaasqueeze squeeze of of lemon lemon Cook has been been added addedand and which which has has becn been seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and has pepper. Drain Drain the the frogs' frogs'legs and dry dry them them ininaacloth. cloth. Coyer pepper. legs and Cover (see SAUCE). with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise III III (see SAUCE). with potato salado Serve on ondiced diced potato salad. Gamish Garnish with with chopped chopped hardhardServe (yolk and boiled eggs eggs (yolk parsley. and white white chopped chopped separa separately) and parsley. boiled tel y) and prMENTs pimentos. GRENOUlLLES Frogs' legs legs with with pimentas. cRENourLLEs AUX Ar..rx PIMENTS Frogs' Dolrx -- Cook Cook the the frogs' frogs' legs legs a~ as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for DOUX parisienne above. Frogs' legs legs àd la Ia parisienne above. Add Add finely finely cut red and cut red and Frogs' green peppers juice to peppers and and vinegar vinegar or or lemon lemon juice to the the cooking cooking green stock and and ddress with aa trickle trickle of of oil. oil. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. stock ress with yinaigrette. GRENOUILLES Frogs' legs legs àt la 19 vinaigrette. cRENournrs ÀA LA LA VINAIvrNArFrogs' cRETTE -- Poach Poach the the frogs' frogs' legs legs as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for GRETTE Frogs' legs parisienne above. legs àd la Ia parisienne above. Frogs' Drain, season season witb with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper, pepper, salt salt and and chopped chopped Drain, parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle sorne some of of the the boiled-down boiled-down cooking cooking stock stock parsley. over the the dish. dish. over Gherkins. CORNICHONS coRNrcHoNs -- Gherkins Gherkins in in vinegar vinegar are Gherkins. are served served cut into into dice. dice. eut Gooce, smoked. snoked. OIE Fr.rMfE -- Cut orn FUMÉE Cut the the breast breast into very very thin thin Goose, slices. Serve parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with slices. Ham (Bayonne, Pomq Westphalia, Westphaliq Ardennes, Ardenneq Toulouse). Tanlouse). @ayonne, Panna, JAMBoNS -- Cut the raw ham iuto into very thin sliees slices and arrange arrange JAMBONS in slices slices or rolled into cornets. cornets. Garnish with fresh parsley. in Herrings. HARENGS HARENcs -- Cut Cut desalted desalted smoked smoked herrings into Herrings. small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil and and vinegar dressing or with with mayonnaise. Add Add hard·boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs eut cut into into dice dice and and mayonnaise. sprinkled with chives or chopped onions. Fillets of salted herrlngs. herrings FILETS FTLETs DE HARENGS HARENcs SALÉS slr,ns -- fillet Fillet FilJets 6 salted herrings, skin them and free them them from salt by soaking in milk and water. Drain, dry in a cloth and arrange arrange in a terrine. Put of blanched onions on them and add terrine. Put rounds rounds of onions on them and thyme, leaf and and cloyes. cloves. Pour 2 dl. dl. ($ pint, seant scant cup) thyme, bay bay Icaf vinegar vinegar over and marinate marinate them in this mixture mixture for 5 hours. Cover with oil and keep in a cool cool place. Garnish with capers, place. Gamish gherkins gherkins and lemon. These These fillets fillets can also also be be prepared in a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), or or dressed dressed with with a a mayonnaise, or used used as as a a garnish garnish for canapis canapés if if thoroughly thoroughly dried on a cloth. Fillets Fillets of of smoked smoked herring. herring. FTLETs FILETS DE DE HARENcs HARENGS sAuRs SA URS Fillet fillet smoked herrings, herrings, skin them, them, and and soak soak in milk milk and water. pvt water. Drain, Drain, dry dry in in a a cloth, cIo th. arrange arrange in in a a terrine, terrine, put blanched on ions on them, them, sprinkle sprinkJe with thyme, thyme, blanched rounds rounds of onions add add aa bayleaf bayleaf and and some sorne cloves, cloyes, and and cover cover with with oil. oil. Keep Keep cool. cool. Garnish Garnish with with hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, chopped choppe
(*

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

#1 ru

( RobertCarrier) Carrier\ Hors-d'œuvre Hors-d'ceuwe (Robert

horsanhorsservedininan beserved prepared and shouldbe andshould readyprepared bought ready bought container. originalcontainer. theoriginal dishor orininthe d'euvre dish d'œuvre prepared atathome. home.Choose Choose alsobe beprepared canalso mackerel can Marinated mackerel Marinated (see marinade(see proceedasasfor Smeltsininmarinade forSmelts and proceed fishand verysmall small fish very below). below). out. theseeds seedsout. andtake takethe drain,and halldrain, Cutmelons melonsininhalf, Melon- -Cut Melon greenleaves. leaves. withgreen coveredwith dishcovered onaadish Serveon Cut slices.Serve Cut ininslices. ice. crushedice. withcrushed Surround Surround with melon. hamwith withmelon. ofParma Parmaharn slicesof thinslices servethin Theltalians Italiansserve The Proceed coNFITs- -Proceed MELoNsCONFITS PETITsMELONS preservedmelons. melons.PETITS SmalJ Smallpreserved forGherkins Gherkins therecipe recipefor indicatedininthe melonsasasindicated with verysrnall smallmelons withvery (seeGHERKINS). ininvinegar vinegar(see GHERKINS). Serveininanan serving.Serve beforeserving. daysbefore for1010days Leave soakfor Leavetotosoak jar. anearthenware earthenware jar. hors-d'œuvre dishororininan hors-d'euvredish intoththin Mortadellainto theMortadella Cutthe in MortadelJa. MoRTADELLE- -Cut Mortadella.MORTADELLE into theslices slicesinto dividethe diameter,divide theirdiameter, slices. According tototheir slices.According flatoror dish,fiat hors'd'uuvredish, quarters.Arrange onananhors-d'œuvre Arrangeon halves halvesororquarters. parsley. freshparsley. withfresh rolled Garnishwith cornets.Garnish intocornets. rolledinto also hors-d'euvreisisalso thishors-d'œuvre Francethis Mousse MousseFanchon Fanchon- - InInFrance kindsofof variouskinds consistsofofvarious called mignonne.ItItconsists moussemignonne. calledmousse mousses. mousses.

Herrings Cut PoRTUcAISE -- eut rn PORTUGAISE portugaise. HARENGS n$sNcs ÀA LA la portugaise. Herrings ài la herrings pint, scant cup) scantcup) in 22dl. dl. (t pieces and and cook cook in large pieces herrings into into large $ pint, Tomato (see FONDUE). FONDUE). T omat o fondue fondue (see Serve as above. above. Serve as Smoked n RUSSE nussp - Euufs ÀI LA HARENGS FUMÉS russe. HARENGS herring ài lala russe. Smoked berring Soak skin, tea,sIOn, coldstrained strainedtea, milk or orcold fillets in inmilk herring fillets smoked herring Soak smoked and giving dish, giving Arrange ininaadish, thin slices. slices. Arrange into thin crosswise into and cut cutcrosswise them tablespoons withseveral several tablespoons Seasonwith shape. Season original shape. them their their original Vinaigrette tarragon, (seeSAUCE) chervil,tarragon, whichchervil, SAUCE) toto which Vinaigrette sauce sauce(see fennel Add22toto33 added.Add have been beenadded. shallots have andchopped chopped shallots fennel and tablespoons dressing. thedressing. cream totothe sourcream tablespoonssour Kilkis Anchovies Seeunder under Anchovies anchovies - - See Norwegianancbovies Kilkis oror Norwegian above. above. Leeks the Usethe le GRECQUE cnncQur- - Use grecque.POIREAUX PoIREALTXÀALA Leeks ài lalagrecque. white pieces 7lcm. cm.(3(3 intopieces leeks.Cut Cutinto partof tender leeks. of large large tender white part inches) Artichokesàd forArtichokes indicated for cookasasindicated andcook long. Blanch Blanchand inches) long. lalagrecque (seeabove). grecque(see above). Lobster, HoMARD, shellfish. HOMARD, othershellfish. lobster and andother Lobster, spiny spinylobster LANGOUSTE, and withoil oiland seasonwith intodice, dice,season Cutinto LANGousrE, CRUSTACÉS cnusucfs- -Cut vinegar, pepper,ororwith mayonnaise. withmayonnaise. vinegar, salt saltand andpepper, Mackerel, canbebe rulRINfs- - can MAQUEREAUx MARINÉS Mackerel, marinated. marinated.MAQUEREAUX

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HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE jelly,fi.!1 Coatsmall small mou moulds with jelly, fill them them with withthe thevarious various Coat Ids with moussesand pieces of and decorate decorate with withsmall smallpieces oftruffie. truffie.Put Putininthe the mousses refrigerator. refrigerator. just before Turn out out the themoulds moulds just beforeserving. serving. Put Putthem themon on Tum canapis of of sandwich sandwich bread bread toasted toasted and andspread spreadwith withaa canapés compound butter butterininkeeping keepingwith with the the mousse. mousse. Arrange Arrange on onaa compound paper doyley. doyley. paper MoussesFanchon Fanchon can canalso also be be served served on on tartlets tarflets or oron on Mousses artichokehearts. hearts. artichoke Mulberries. MÛRES MOREs rnlicnns - Serve plain in a fruit dish or Mulberries. FRAÎCHES - Serve plain in a fruit dish or plate covered on aa plate green leaves. covered with with green leaves. on l\rlushrooms. CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs -- Cook Cook inin aa white white CourtCourtMushrooms. (see COURT-BOUILLON) bouillon III /// (see COURT-BOUILLOIg mushrooms mushrooms cut cut bouillon into small small dice. dice. Season Season with with an an oil oil and and vinegar vinegar dressing, dressing, or or into with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with Mrrhttd cèpes cbpes and ad musbrooms. mushrooms. CÈPES, ctrns, CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs Marinated parboil for u.mrNfs -- Use Use small small firm firm white white mushrooms. mushrooms. Parboil for 44 MARINÉS 'minutes in salted boiling water. Drain and dry. put them in , minutes in salted boiling water. Drain and dry. Put them in an earthenware earthenwaredish and cover cover them them with with aa boiling boilingmarinade, an dish and marinade, prepared as as follows: follows: prepared (2+ lb.) For 1I kg. kg. (2i lb.) mushrooms, mushrooms, boil boil together together for for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, For (scant pint, pnt,2l dl. (scant cups) vinegar, vinegar, Ii pint, jt cup) l\ dl. dl. (i(} pint, cup) oil, oil, 55 dl. 2* cups) garlig aa bouquet crushed cloves garni made cloves of of garlic, bouqtet garni parsley made of of 22 parsley 33 crushed roots, !f bay bay leaf, leaf, aa sprig sprig of of thyme thyme and and aa little little fennel, fennel, 1I teatearoots, spoon coriander, coriander, 66 to peppercorns. to 88 peppercorns. spoon Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in in the the marinade marinade for for 44 to to 55 days. days. Leave Serve in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'eavre dish. dish. Serve These mushrooms mushrooms can can be bottled in be bottled prescribed in the the prescribed These jars of marinade. Bottling Bottling jars (scant quart, of 1I litre litre (seant quart, generous generous marinade. capacity must must be quart) eapacity be boiled boiled for for 35 35 minutes; minutes; those those of! of ! quart) (scant pint, litre (scant pint,2l cups) capacity capacity need need only only 25 25 minutes. minutes. litre 2i cups) Mussels. MouLEs-- Cook Cook in in white white wine. wine. Shell, Shell, dry, dry season season Mussels. MOULES with oil oil and and vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper, or salt and and pepper, or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. with Mussels la ravigote. MouLEs,i, u RA uucom Cook and and Mussels àI la ravigote. MOULES À LA VlGOTE -- Cook drain large large mussels. Put them in aa terrine. terrine. Season Season with with drain mussels. Put them in Yinoigrette (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) to hard-boiled eggs, eggs, Vinaigrette sauce to which which hard-boiled parsley, chervil, tarragon gberkins have chopped gherkins have been parsley, chervil, tarragon and and chopped added. an hors-d'euvre dish. added. Arrange Arrange on on an hors-d'œuvre dish. prepare Mussel sslad. sALADE Mussel salad. SALADE DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare the mussels as for Mussels (see d la mariniire MUSSEL). Shell them and for Mussels à la marinière (see MUSSEL). Shell dress dress with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, pepper pepper andfines and fines herbes. herbes. Serve in an hors-d'euvre dish. hors-d'œuvre dish. Mussels Mussels tà la la tartare. tartare. uourns MOULES A À r,A, LA TARTARE TARTARE -- Prepare Prepare some sorne large large mussels mussels as as for for Mussels Mussels dà la la marinidre marinière (see (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Shell Shell them them and and arrange arrange in in an an hors-d'a7wre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Mask Mask with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Surround Surround with with half half slices slices of of lemon lemon cut cut with with aa fluted fiuted knife. knife. Olives Olives - Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish without without dressing dressing them. them. Black Black olives. olives. olrvns OLIVES NorRrs NOIRES -- These These can can be be bought bought ready ready for for the the table table and and are are served served without without dressing. dressing. Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish. Stufred OLIVES FARcns FARCIES-- Choose Choose large large stoned stoned olives, olives, Stuffedolives. olives. oLryEs which which have have been been soaked soaked to to free free thern them from from salt. salt. Stuff Stuff with with aa compound compound butter. butter. The The most most usual usual stuffing stuffing for for olives olives isis Anchovy Anchovy butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Arrange Arrange the the stuffed stuffed olives olives on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and dress dress with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons oil. oil. Stuffed can also also be be bought. bought. Stuffed olives olives can Onions. Onions. orcNoNs OIGNONS -- Cut Cut raw raw onions on ions into into dic€, dice, blanch, blanch, drain, drain, and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Onions Onions ià la la grecque. grecque. orcNoNs OIGNONS AÀ ra LA cnrceue GRECQUE -- prepared Prepared like likeArtichokes ArtichokesdàIalagrecque grecque(see (see above). abov~). Onions OnionsIà Porientale l'orientale-- See See ONION. ON ION. Ox Ox muzzle muzzle salad. salad. uusnAu MUSEAU DE DE BoEUF BOEUF EN EN SALADE SALADE -- Blanch. Blanch, cool cooland anddrain drainthe themuzzle. muzzle.Scrape Scrapeand andwash. wash.Boil Boilthe the mtnzle muzzle ininaawhite whitecourt-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.), (q.v.),and andleave leaveitittotocool coolininthe thepot. pot.

Drain,wipe wipedry dryand andcut cutinto intovery verythin thinslices. slices.Season Drain, Seasonwith with strongVinaigrette Vinaigrettesauce (seeSAUCE) sauce(see SAUCE)totowhich aastrong whichonion onionand and parsleyhave choppedparsley havebeen beenadded. added. chopped Arrange on onan anhors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvredish. dish.Decorate Decoratewith Arrange withtiny tinyrings rings orraw rawon onions andchopped choppedhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. or ions and eggs. Tbishors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvrecan canbe bebought bought ready-made. ready-made. This plr.lrs DE proceedasas Oxtongue tonguesalad. salad.PALAIS DEBOEUF BoEUFEN Ox ENSALADE SALADE- -Proceed above. above.

Oysters Oystcrs

Oysters. HuîTRES Hulrnrs -- Oysters Oysters. Oysters are are usually usually eaten eaten raw. raw. There There are aa number number of of recipes recipes for are for serving serving oysters as aa cold oysters as cold hors&orsd'euvre. The The most d'œuvre. most famous famous are arc Oysters àd l'andalouse, l'andalouse, Oysters Oysters in barquettes, barquettes, Oysters in Oysters with with caviare, gastronome's caviare, The The gastronome's oyster and and Marinated Marinated oysters. (See OYSTER.) oyster oysters. (See qnchovi€{r. ALLUMETTES Pastry straws witb with ancbovies. ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -Proceed as as for for Allumettes Proceed Allumettes with (see Hot with anchovies anchovles (see Hot horshorsd'euvre\ but serve serve cold. d'œuvre) Pastry straws straws with Pastry with caviare. caviare. ALLUMETTES ALLuMETTEs AU AU CAVIAR cAvrAR -pastry as Prepare pastry as for for Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover with with aa thin thin Fish forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) layer of Fishforcemeat FORCEMEATS) and and cook cook in in the oven. Cool and cover with fresh caviare. caviare. pastry straws. ALLUMETTES À LA NonvfcrENNE NORVÉGIENNENorwegian pastry straws. ALLUITETTEs A r,e Prepare the pastry pastry as Allumettes (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover as for for Allumettes Cover with with aa thin layer of aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of hard-boilod hard-boiled eggs, eggs, blended wrth, Bichamel with Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Bake Bake in the oven. Leave to cool and garnish with Norwegian Norwegian anchovy fillets. pastry straws. ALLTJMETTEs ALLUMETTES A À u LA pmrsENNE PARISIENNE Parisian pastry Prepare Prepare the pastry pastry as for Allumettes Allumettes (q.v.). Coat with a a thin layer layer of of chicken chicken Mousselineforcemedr Mousselineforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) bake in the the oven. oven. and bake Cool, garnish garnish with with thin th in strips strips of of breast breast of of chicken chicken alternataltematCool, ing with slices of of trufres truffies and and pickled pickled tongue. tongue. Glaze Glaze with with ing jelly. jelly. pastry straws. ALLT,JMETTES ALLUMETTES vLADTMTR VLADIMIR - prepare Vladimir pastry Vhdinir - Prepare the pastry pastry as as for for Allumettes Allumettes (q.v.), (q.v.), coat coat with with aa thin thin layer layer of of the Pike forcemeat forcemeat (w (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEA TS) and and Crayfish Crayfish butter butter Pike (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. Leave Leave to to cool, cool, and and garnish gamish with small small slices slices of of smoked smoked salmon, salmon, alternating alternating with with slices slices witl of truffies. truffles. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. jelly. of Patties. soucuEEsBOUCHÉES - Very Very small smallpatties patties made made of of puffpastry puff pastry Patties. garnished gamished with with different different mousses; mousses; prawns, prawns, shrimps, shrimps, craycrayfish, foie gras, gras, Eame, game, poultry, poultry, etc. etc. frsh,fok BOUCHÉES FANcHoNNErre FANCHONNETTE - Make Make Fancboonette patties. patties. soucHins Fanchonnette -salad very small small patties patties of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Garnish Gamish with with aa salad of very of breast of of chicken chicken and and aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of red red and and green green breast pepperswith with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Fut Putaa thick thick slice slice of oftrufre truffie on on each each peppeni patty. patty.

466

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE patties can Small patties garnished in can be be garnished in the the same same way way as as canapés, canapis, Small tartlets, and preparations. and other other similar similar preparations. tartlets, prMENTs Dor.rx Pepperg sweet. sweet. PIMENTS peppers, Skin the the pep open Peppers, DOUX -- Skin pers, open them and and take take out out the the seeds. seeds. Cut Cut into into sticks sticks and and season season with with them oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt pepper. Arrange salt and and pepper. Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre oil, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with parsley, and with chopped chopped parsley, garnish with and garnish with thin thin dish, rings of of raw raw onion. onion. rings pETrrs pMENTs VERTS, poIvRoNS green. PETITS PIMENTS Peppery small small green. vERTs, POIVRONS Peppers, Proceed as as indicated indicated for for Sweet peppers above. Sweet peppers above. Proceed Pickles Arrange in an hors-d'euvre dish or serve in the the Pickles -- Arrange in an hors-d'œuvre dish or serve in original container. container. original (condimenQ -- This Pissalat (condiment) This can can be bought ready-made. ready-made. be bought Pissalat yourself pickle To make make itit yourself pickle aa mixture mixture of of sm small shad, To aIl shad, herrings, sardines sardines and and anchovies, anchovies, for for 88 days. days. Rub Rub through through aa herrings, sieve and and dilute dilute with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the brine brine in in which which sieve the fish pickled. Add fish were were pickled. jars. Add sorne some cl put into cloves and put into jars. oves and the Seal weIl well and and keep place. keep in in aa cool cool place. Seal Pissalat condiment condiment can can be be used used as as it it is, is, or or with with oil oil added added Pissalat to it. it. to poMMEs DE Potatoes. POMMES TERRE -- Cooked DE TERRE Cooked in in water, water, cut cut into into Potatoes. dice or or sliced, sliced, seasoned seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, dice or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. or Printanilre -- See See Spring Spring vegetables vegetables below. below. Printanière Radisheg black. black. RADIS RADrs NOIRS NorRsScrape the radishes and cut cut - Scrape Radishes, into thin thin slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle them with with salt salt and and leave leave them them to into render their their liquor liquor for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Dry, Dry, and and arrange arrange in in an an render hors-d'euvre dish. dish. hors-d'œuvre A little little Vinaigrette (ser-, SAUCE) Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see SAUCE) can can be be added. added. In A Russia, black black radish generally served with radish is is generally with aa sour sour cream Russia, dressing. dressing. Radishes, red red and white. RADIS RADrs ROSES, RosEs, RADIS RADrs GRIS cRrs -- Scrape Scrape Radishes, the radishes, radishes, cut green part part short, wash and arrange cut the the green arrange in an the hors-d'euvre dish. Serve with salt and and fresh butter. hors-d'œuvre Red radishes are are often often used used to to decorate cold cold dishes and and Red radishes salad arrangements. arrangements. salad Red mullet ài l'orientale l'orientde or red mullet with saffron. saffron. ROUGETS RoucETS Red A L'oRrENr,qlE, AU SAFRAN SAFRAN -- Choose Choose very small fish. fish. Season Season À L'ORIENTALE, AU with pepper, roll and pepper, in flour, deep-fry in hot oil. with salt and roll in Arrange fish on on an an oiled oiled baking dish. dish. Cover Cover with Arrange the the fish Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) spiced with aa little saffron, Tomato (see FONDUE) fennel, some grains of coriander, coriander, fennel, thyme, powdered powdered bayleaf, sorne garlic and garlic and chopped parsley. parsley. Bring Bring to the boil. Cover the dish and and finish finish the cooking cooking in the oven for 6 to 8 minutes. Serve dish with slices of of peeled lemon. Serve in in an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Rollnops of herring, marinated Rollmops -- Fillets Fillets of marinated and and strongly strongly spiced. up and secured spiced. They They are are stuffed stuffed with with aa gherkin, gherkin, rolled rolled up with with a a little little wooden wooden stick. stick. Rollmops Rollmops are are served served on on an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish decorated with rounds rounds of of onions. on ions.

pnrrrs PAINS pArNs GARNIS garnished. PETITS Ro[s, garnished. cARNrsChoose very very small small RoUs, - Choose oblong-shaped rolls rolls made made with with butter. butter. Similarly Similarly shaped shaped rolls rolls oblong-shaped (see DOUGH) made from from ordinary ordinary Brioche Brioche dough dough (see DOUGH) can also made can also be used. used. Fill Fill them thEm àd la hfrangaise, or àd lalarusse: russe: be française, or ta française. open on on one Cut open one side side only. only. Spread Spread with with ÀA la frangare. Cut (either ordinary butter (either ordinary butter butter or or mustard mustard butter). butter). Garnish butter Garnish with thin (or other thin slices slices of poultry), ham, of breast breast of of chicken chicken (or other poultry), ham, with pickled tongue, fillet of tongue, fillet of beef, beef, smoked smoked salmon salmon or or similar similar pickled items according grcs can to taste. taste. Various pur6es or according to Various purées or foie can items foie gras also be as stuffing. be used used as stuffing. aJso la russe. russe. Take Take aa round round slice slice off off the the top top of of the the rolls. rolls. ÀA la Empty the the rolls rolls through through this this opening opening without without breaking Empty breaking the the crust. Fill Fill the pur6e, aa salad, the roll roll with (q.v.). with aa purée, salad, or or aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.). crust. paper doyley, Arrange on on aa paper doyley, or or on on aa napkin. napkin. Arrange Rolls àd la la française are served served'at Rolls 'at luncheon luncheon or or as as sandsandfrangaise are wiches. wiches. Rolls àd la la russe russe should should always always be be very very small. small. They They belong Rolls belong to the the Russian Russian hors-d'œuvre hors-d'auvre called called zakouski. zakouski. to Salami -- Cut Cut into into thin thin slices, slices, arrange Salami arrange on on an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre garnish with dish, garnish parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. dish, Salmon ài la h canadienne. canadienne. SAUMON sAUMoN À A LA re CANADIENNE clN.lonNtrg -- Cut Salmon Cut the salmon salmon in in squares squares and and sauté saut6 in in oil. oil. Season the Season with with salt salt and and paprika. paprika. pods (ladies' (ladies'fingers) Add okra okra pods poached Add fingers) which have been which have been poached juice. Cover separately. Moisten Moisten with with white white wine wine and and lemon juice. separately. Cover with aa lid lid and and simmer for aa few few seconds. seconds. Leave simmer for to cool. Leave to with cool. Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Garnish Arrange Garnish with red and with red and cut into into dice. green peppers, peeled and cut dice. Pour Pour aa little little olive olive oil oil the dish. dish. over the Fresh salmon salmon can can be be served served as as an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'cavre following given for the instructions instructions given for different different kinds the kinds of of fish fish as as horsd'euvre, d'œuvre. pAUpTETTEs DE pupiettes ài l'impériale. Salmon paupiettes Pinperisle. PAUPIEITES Salmon DE SAUMON sAUMoN A L'IMPÉRIALE r'mpfnLlrs -- Flatten thin narrow slices of salmon, season, À coat lightly (see FORCElightly with with aa layer layer of of Pike forcemeat (see coat MEATS) with aa little little shallot MEA TS) with shallot and and sorne parsley some chopped choppod parsley added. Roll up up into the the shape of of paupiettes added. paupiettes and and secure secure with string. Put the into an an oiled pan, packing packing them Put the paupiettes into oiled pan, them in fairly tightly. tightly. Moisten Moisten with fairly with aa few few tablespoons white wine of lemonjuice. Season and add a little bouquet and a squeeze oflemonjuice. of fennel. Simmer very slowly with the lid on. Drain Drain the paupiettes, untie, and place place each the paupietles, untie, and on aa small each on artichoke artichoke heart cooked in a white wine stock. Arrange Arrange in an hors-d'auvre dish, sprinkle sprinkle with hors-d' œuvre dish, with the the stock in which stock in which the paupiettes have been cooked, and and add a little olive oil and and a few capers, half slices of lemon lemon cut few spices. Decorate with capers, with a fluted fiuted cutter, and fresh parsley. parsley. Salmon paupiettes PAUPIETTES DE SAUMON Salmon paupiettes au vert. pAr.JpIETTEs sAuMoN AU VERT the preceding recipe. recipe. Cook as in the -- Prepare the paupiettes as them according to the instruction for Eels an au vert (se (see EEL). Smoked Smoked sdnon. salmon. SAUMON FUMÉ - Cut the smoked salmon sAuMoN rurraf into very thin slices. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d hors-d' euvre œu vre dish, flat or rolled into cornets. Garnish Garnish with with fresh parsley. parsley. Smoked SAUMON Furd FUMÉ A À r,l LA BosroNBOSTONSmoked salmon salmon Boston style. s,lu,roN NAISE - Cut Cut 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) smoked salmon into very thin short 100 g. (4 oz.) oz.) cooked mushrooms and 75 g. short strips. Add 100 and,75 (3 (3 oz.) each of of green and red peeled pepper, cut cut in the same same way. way. Season Season with with mayonnaise mixed mixed with with a a very very little Tabasco sauce (commercial (commercial product). Arrange on an horshorsd'euvre d'œuvre dish, surround surround with the the chopped yolks yolks and and whites of hard-boilod hard-boiled eggs, eggs, and and sprigs sprigs of parsley. parsley. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped parsley parsley and serve. serve. Smoked Smoked salmon salmon ià la la noscovite. moscovite. sluuoN SAUMON rtnr6 FUMÉ A À rl LA MoscovrrE MOSCOVITE - Roll very small small slices of of smoked salmon salmon into into cornets. cornets. Fill with fresh fresh caviare. caviare. Arrange Arrange the the cornets cornets in aa circle circle on on aa plate. plate. Decorate Decorate with with the the chopped chopped yolks yolks and and whites whites ofhard-boiled of hard-boiled eggs, eggs, parsley parsley and and capers. capers.

Rollmops Rollmops

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Salt co4 cod, curried. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE MoRUE MORUE A À r'nrDIrNNE L'INDIENNE Soak Soak the the salt cod and and cut into into thin thin slices. Wash and dry the slices in in a cloth. clotho Flour lightly lightly and cook cook in in boiling boiling oil. Take Take the the fish fish out out of the the pan. pan. Cook 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3

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Sour-sweet Sour-sweet pickles pickles (acetodolce) (aceto-dolce) - Different Different kinds kinds of

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vegetables vegetables and fruits are commercially commercially preserved preserved in vinegar. They are then th en put in a syrup of of must and honey spiced with

mustard. mustard.

tablespoons) tablespoons) finely finely minced minced onion onion in the pan, pan, sprinkle in

Arrange in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish or serve in the the original jar. jar. Sprats -- Take the heads and the tails off off the fish and skin skin Sprats them. them. Arrange Arrange on on a a plate plate and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped shallots and and parsley. Moisten Moisten with oil and and vinegar and leave to steep for several several hours in this marinade marinade before serving. serving. Arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and garnish garnish with with fresh parsley.

I1 tablespoon tablespoon curry powder, moisten moisten with with l+ 11 dl. dl. $ (i pint,

cup) white white wine wine and and a little !ittle lemon lemon juice, juice, and add a little 3~ cup) crushed crushed garlic. Boil Boil for aa few few minutes minutes and put the slices of cod cod into into this this court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil again, again, cover coyer and remove rem ove from from the the heat. heat. Cool, Cool, arrange arrange in in a dish and surround with lemon slices. slices. Salt Salt cod cod tongues tongues à la la madrillne. madrilène. LANGTJEs LANGUES nB DE uonues MORUES A À rA, LA Mlpntr,iNe MADRILÈNE -- Cook an an unpeeled unpeeled clove clove of of garlic in in very hot oil. oil. Toss Toss the the cod cod tongues tongues in in this this oil. Pour Pour over over the the tongues tongues a sufficient quantity quantity of of vinegar vinegar to to cover coyer them. them. Season Season with with thyme, thyme, powdered powdered bay bay leaf leaf and and red red Spanish Spanish pepp€r. pepper. Cook Cook in in an an open open pan pan for 12 minutes, minutes, and and sprinkle in in a generous generous amount amount of freshly freshly chopped fennel. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in the the stock. stock. Salt Salt cod cod tongueg tongues, narinated. marinated. LANGr,tEs LANGUES Ds DE uonuEs MORUES MARTNfEs MARINÉES Soak the the cod cod tongues tongues to to remove rem ove the the salt. salt. Dry, Dry, and and fry fry in in -- Soak olive olive oil. oil. Moisten court-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) adding adding just just Moisten with with white white wine wine court-bouillon enough enough to to cover coyer them. them. Cook Cook slowly slowly for 12 12 minutes. minutes. Put Put the the tongues tongues and and the the cooking cooking liquor liquor into into aa terrine. terrine. Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Sardines Sardines in in oil. oil. SARDTNES SARDINES A À r'nurr.t L'HUILE - Arrange Arrange on on an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish, dish, dress dress with with oil, oil, and and garnish garnish with with capers capers and and fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Sardine Sardine pur6e. purée. punfs PURÉE DE DE sARDTNEs SARDINES - Put Put in in aa mortar mortar 12 12 well-boned well-boned sardines sardines which which have have been been kept kept in olive olive oil. oil. Pound Pound theur them in in the the mortar mortar together together $/ith with 44 yolks yolks of of hardhardboiled boiled eggs. eggs. Pass Pass through through aa fine fine sieve sieve and and use use for for cold cold or or hot hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Sa$ages, Sausages, various. various. sAuclssoNs SAUCISSONS -- There There are are many many different different sausages sa usages which which can can be be bought bought ready-made ready-made and and served served as as hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Seveloys Saveloys (susage). (sausage). cERVELAs CERVELAS - Cook Cook various various kinds kinds of of saveloys saveloys and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and serve serve like like other other sausages. sausages. Sheep's Sheep's trotters trotters à ls la yinaigette. vinaigrette. prms PIEDS on DE MouroN MOUTON A À rA, LA vINAIGRETTE VINAIGRETTE - Cook Cook the the sheep's sheep's trotters trotters in in the the usual usual way way (see (see OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Drain, Drain, bone bone and and cut cut into still hot, hot, into very very small small pieces. pieces. Season Season the the meat meat while while itit isis still with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, salt, pepper, pepper, onions onions and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Arrange Arrange in in small small salad salad bowls bowls or or in in an an hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre dish. Shetlfish, Shellfish, mixed. mixed. FRr.rrrs FRUITS DE DE MER MER -- Different Different kinds kinds of of shellshellfish fish served served raw. raw. Shrimps. CREVETTES -- Shrimps Shrimps seasoned seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, Shrimps. cREvETrEs salt salt and and pepper, pepper, or or with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Shrimp Shrimp sdad. salad. SALADE SALADE DE DE cRwErrEs CREVETTES - Shell Shell the the shrimps shrimps

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Spring vegetables vegelables Spring

Spring vegetables vegetables (printanibrc) (printanière) -- Cook Cook diced diced French French Spring

beans, beans, carrots carrots and and turnips turnips cut cut into into very very small small squares, squares, peas peas and Drain and and season season with with oil, oil, and asparagus asparagus tips tips in in water. water. Drain vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper.

Tapenade (Provengrle (Provençale recipe) recipe) - This This consists consists of of olives olives Tapenade pounded pounded with with desalted desalted anchovy anchovy fillets fiUets and and capers, capers, the the whole whole 'being being blended blended with with olive olive oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice, then then seasoned seasoned with pepper. pepper. Serve Serve on on toast. toast. with Tartlets, garnished. garnished. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES cARNtEs GARNIES - Garnished Garnished Tartletq tartlets in the the same same way way asbarquettes; as barquettes; tartlets are are prepared prepared and and filled filled in the the only only difference difference lies lies in in their their shape. shape. Tartlets Tartlets are are baked baked in in small or fluted fluted borders. borders. small round round tins tins with with plain plain or Toas{ Toast, gamished. garnished. roAsrs TOASTS cARNrsGARNIS - All Ali recipes recipes for for garnished garnished canapés can can be be used used for for garnished garnished toast. toast. canapis Tomatoes. ToMATES TOMATES - Peel Peel and and seed seed the the tomatoes. tomatoes. Cut Cut Tomatoes. them into into dice dice or or slices. slices. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with salt, salt, leave leave them them to to them stand for for aa time time and and season season with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. stand Tomatoes à I'antiboise. l'antiboise. ToMATEs TOMA TES A À r'^nl.tflsorsn L'ANTIBOISE -- Choose Choose Tomatoes red, red, uniform, uniform, small small tomatoes. tomatoes. Take Take out out the the seeds seeds without without damaging the the flesh. flesh. Leave Leave them them for for I1 hour hour in in oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, damaging salt and and pepper. pepper. Garnish Garnish with with aa mixture mixture of of chopped chopped tunny tunny salt (tuna (tuna fish) fish) in in oil, oil, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, capers, capers, parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and tarragon tarragon blended blended with with aa strongly strongly flavoured flavoured mayonmayonand naise to to which which anchovy anchovy essence essence has has been been added. added. Arrange Arrange on on naise

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and put therr them in in a a deep deep dish. dish. Cover Coyer with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. and put

Garnish Garnish the the dish dish with with lettuce, lettuce, leaving leaving the the centre centre free; free; fill fill trris this with with rounds rounds of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Srgul Sigui, smoked. smoked. srcur SIGUI ruuf FUMÉ -- Cut Cut smoked smoked slgzi sigui into into very very thin thin slices, slices, arrange arrange on on an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and garnish garnish with You can can also also use use smoked smoked sigui sigui for for filling filling with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. You barEtettes, barquettes, canapis, canapés, tartlets, tartlets, etc. etc. Smelts SmeJts in in marinade. marinade. 6pm,r,,q,rs ÉPERLANS MARTNEs MARINÉS -- Clean Clean and and dry dry carefully carefully chosen chosen smelts. smelts. Roll Roll in in flour flour and and fry fry them them in in boiling boiling oil oil so so that that they they quickly quickly colour colour on on both both sides. sides. Season. Season. Drain Drain the the smelts. smelts. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa deep deep dish, dish, cover coyer with with rounds rounds of ofblanched blanched onions onions and and sprinkle sprinkle with with thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Add Add peppercorns peppercorns and and cloves. cloyes. Cover Coyer with with cold cold conconcentrated 12 hours hours in in this this centrated vinegar. vinegar. Leave Leave the the smelts smelts for for 12 marinade. marinade. Serve Serve in in an an hors-d'ezvre hors-d'œuvre dish. dish.

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE trufles into dice or Trufles. TRUFFES Truffies. TRUFFEs -- Cut cooked or raw truffies or with salt and and pepp€r, oil, vinegar, strips, with oil, vinegar, salt pepper, or strips, season with jelly or with a mayonnaise. Truffies can also be blended blended with withjelly mayonnaise. Chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE). brown Chaud-froid (trna fish). oil, cut into dice, fisb). THON Tunny (tuna THoN -- Marinate in oil, mayonnaise. season season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper, or mayonnaise. (trna fish) A LA r.n NlNrerse rtroN À Tunny (tuna fish) ài la nantaise. THON NANTAISE -- Cut ssa1lt* of Horseradish the fish into slices. Co ver with a thin coating Horseradish Cover (see BUTTER, Arrange the butters). Arrange butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butter (see plate, alternating with on aa plate, slices by two two in in aa circ1e two by circle on slices two Garnish the centre with a salad rounds of cooked beetroot. Garnish Sprinkle with chives and chopped of mussels and potatoes. Sprinkle tarragon. (funa fish) in oil. THON t'ttuttE -- Arrange A L'HUILE Arrange canned Tunny (tuna rsoN À dish, dress with oil oil and and garnish tunny on an tunny an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, parsley. with capers or fresh parsley. gamished. BARQUETTES rfcuuns BARet ETTES DE Vegetable boats, boats, garnished. Vegetable DE LÉGUMES vegetables, mainly mainly beetroot beetroot and GARNIES cARNIEs -- Pieces Pieces of of vegetables, garnished in cucumber, shaped like boats, hollowed hollowed out and garnished different different ways. barquettes apply as garnishes for Ali All the fillings given for barquettes garnishes for this this kind kind of vegetable vegetable boats. The most usual garnishes pur6es, vegetable macédoine, macidoine, purées, hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre are are caviare, caviare, vegetable shellfish. butter compounds, salpicons of shellfish. oE LÉGUMES r"fcutuns -- Cook JULTENNE DE Cook the V egetabl~ lulienne. julienne. JULIENNE Vegetable following fine frne julienne (q.v.) slowly in in oil in aa covered pan: (4 oz., g. (4 (a oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., 1I cup) of the white part of leeks, 100 g. (2 oz., t* cup) onions. Season. g. (2 Season. 1I cup) celery and and 50 g. (2 oz., add 50 g. oz.,l1 cup) raw When three-quarters cooked add E (2 fresh cream mushrooms cut julienne strips. Blend with fresh cut into into julienree what other leave as as it it is, is, according to to what or or mayonnaise, or or leave dishes you are serving. serving. raenNes -- Put Whitebait, NONATS MARINÉS Whitebait, marinated. NoNATs Put the fish in a deep dish, dish, and and pour in aa boiling marinade made with white serving. Arrange in wine. wine. Cover and leave leave to to cool before before serving. Cover and with chopped parsley, and and an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with half surround with ha If slices of lemon cut with aa fluted cutter. NoNArs a twig of thyme, DE NONA Whitebait TS -- Put a Whit€bait salado salad. SALADE sALADE DE pot of water. into aa pot water. Bring to to the aa bay bay leaf leaf and and sorne some salt into I minute. Drain, arrange arrange in a boil, put thefish the fish in and boil for 1 sprinkle with salad or an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish, dish, and and sprinkle salad bowl bowl or (se SAUCE). Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE). pigs' trotters. and Zampino -- Boned Boned and and stuffed stuffed pigs' Cook and trotters. Cook on an an horsleave to cool. cool. Cut into into thin thin slices slices and and arrange on garnished with parsley. Zampino can be bought d'œuvre d'euvre dish, garnished ready cooked in in shops selling Jtalian Italian produce.

Stuffed tomatoes

plate, sprinkle with the marinade, an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'uavre dish dish or plate, and garnish with fresh parsley and half slices of lemon cut with a fluted cutter. Tomatoes, ToMATHI FARCIES FARcIES -- Prepare tomatoes as Tomatoesr stufJed. strffed" TOMATES described described in the recipe for Tomatoes à d l'antiboise I'antiboise (see above). Garnish with a compound purée, Russian Russian salad, or a compound butter, pur6e, salpicon salpicon (q.v.).

presented in aa Stuffed tomatoes presented hollowed-out hollowed-out cucumber

noRs-p'GUvRE CHAUDS HOT HORS-D'ŒUVRE. HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'œuVRE cHAUDS -Allumettes -- Puff pastry rectangles, spread with aa suitable and baked in the oven. mixture and Make Puffpastry(see Puffpastry (see DOUGH). Roll out to a thickness thickness of (3 inches) c-. (t inch) inch) and and cut cut into into ribbons ribbons 71 7t cm. cm. (3 inches) long. 1* cm. fish, and add the Spread with aa cold forcemeat of poultry or fish, garnish appropriate appropriate to to the the recipe. (l inch) wide. Cut the ribbons into rectangles about 2lcm. cm. (1 Put Put on on aa baking baking sheet sheet and and bake bake in in the the oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. Arrange on aa napkin and and serve very hot. Allumettes with L ALLUMETTES lrluugTrrs AUX Aux ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies anchovies I. (see FORCEMEAT) Spread forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) with Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat Anchovy Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.) Garnish with fillets fillets of anchovy. Allumettes with II. ALLUMETTES ALrx ANCHOIS ANcHors -with anchovies n. lnul,tpTTEs AUX Spread with Salpicon anchovies and and hardSalpicon (q.v.) of fillets of anchovies boiled eggs blended with thick Béchamel UCE). Bichamel sauce (see SA SAUCE). Allumettes ài l'andalouse forcemeat l'andalouse -- Spread Spread with with Poultry forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) seasoned paprika, mixed (see with paprika, nixed with with aa seasoned with salpicon salpicon of and onions onions cooked cooked in in butter, also ham and of lean lean harn butter, also seasoned seasoned with paprika.

Tomatoes TES À A LA rl VINAIGRETTE vINAIcRETTE -la vinaigrette. TOMA rou.e,tss Tomatoes ài la Skin the tomatoes, take out the seeds and water and cut into slices or quarters. Put on aa towel, cover with salt and and leave them to to render their liquor for 1I hour. Arrange and dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with oil oil and hors-d'euvre dish, Arrange in in an an hors-d'œuvre parsley, chervil vinegar, and tarragon. tarragon. Sprinkle chervil and vinegar, chopped chopped parsley, ground pepper pepper and with freshly ground and garnish with thin rounds of raw raw onion. Tongue, ruut -pickled and LANGUE ÉCARLATE, fcmtltr, FUMÉ Tongue, pickJed smoked. LANGUE and smoked. Cut into thin slices and hors-d'euvre dish. dish. and serve in an hors-d'œuvre Trout, MARINEEs -- Cook very small Trout marinated. TRITITEs MARINÉES Cook very mrrinated. TRUITES (see COURT-BOUILLON). trout in Court-bouillon trout in XII (see Court-bouillon XII Leave Leave them them to in their to cool in their cooking cooking stock. stock. Arrange Arrange in in an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre dish. dish. Pour Pour the the stock over the the fish fish and and garnish parsley. with seeded and slices of lemon, and and peeled slices and fresh fresh parsley. Trout ài l'orientale. I'orientale. TRUITES A L'ORIENTALE t'onIENrAln -- Prepare TRUITES À Prepare and and cook very small trout as mul/et àd l'orientale as indicated for for Red Redmullet I'orientale above. Arrange Arrange on an hors-d'euvre dish. an hors-d'œuvre dish. Trout, smoked. TRUITES ruvrfss -- Garnish and TRUITES FUMÉES and serve with with toast and and lemon.

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469 469

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Allumettes èi la la chalonnai.se chalonnaise -- Spread with with Poultry Poultry forceAllumettes force(s@ FORCEMEAT) to meat (sec to which diced diced cocks' cocks'combs and meat combs and have been kidneys, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies truffes have been added. added. kidneys, Allumettes Chavette Chavette -- Spread Spread with with Fish Fisft forcemeat AUumettes forcemeat (see (see BUTTER, FORCEMEAQ wÎth with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER', ComFORCEMEAT) pottnd butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with crayfish crayfish tails tails and and truffies. trufres. pound Alhmettes P6carlate -- Spread Spread with wth Vea/ Veal forcernear AD 0 mettes èi l'éclU"late forcemeat (see pickled or FORCEMEAT) to which which aa salpicon salpicon of of pickled or smoked FORCEMEA T) to tongue has has becn been added. added. puree of Nhrmettes èi l'écossaise l'6cossairse -- Spread Spread with with purée haddock of haddock AUl.lmCUI~ with thick lldchamel sauce blended with thick Béchamel sauce (se SAUCE). SAUCE). bleoded Allumettes ài la Ia florentine florentine -- Spread with with spinach spinach cooked cooked in in Allumettes butter, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE), grated cheese to which grated has been cheese bas been added. added. Sprinkle with to just before serving. Parmesan cheese and brown in the cheese and brown in the oven oven jusl serving. Parmesan prssALAT pissalat TOlmTE Anchory fart tail widl with pissalat. ToT.JRTE D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHors AU AU PISSALAT Anchovy pasre (see (see DOUGH) Roll out ourt Lining Lining paste DOUGH) 1I cm. cm. $ inch) truck. thick. -- Roll Line aa large large tart tart tin tin wi with the pastry, crimp the the edges. edges. Line th the fillets of of anchovy, dry dry them well in a cloth and and cover cover Desalt fillels pastry with the pastry with [hem them in in aa criss-cross criss-cross pattern. Sprinkle with with the tablespoon finely finely chopped onions and distribute 20 20 black 1I tablespooo (scant tI cup) olive olives on on top. top. Dress Dress with with 33 tablespoons tablespoons (seant olives (3 tablespoons) pissalat (q.v.). (q.v.). oil mixed with with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pissalal oil in aa slow oven. oven. Serve Serve very hot. Cook in Anchoyade 1I -- Desalt Desalt and and scrape fiJlets fillets of of anchovy and Anchoyade ste€p them for for several several minutes in in olive oil oil to whieh which chopped chopped steep garlic and ground pepper pepper have and ground have been added. garlic pieces of Arrange the the flllets fillets on on large pÎeces of crust crust eut from the cut from Arrange part of lower part of home-made bread. Crush the fiJlets fillets ooto onto the Jower pieces of bread thern with with other other pieces brpad cut of bread cut into into bread by by pressing pressing them squares, which are then The diners diners eat eat these squares, which are then removed. removed. The with squares one after the other, as they become impregnated with anchovy. anchovy. Moisten the crusts with with the the oil oil in in which Moisten the crusts wruch the fillets flllets have grill. soaked, and and grill. This Provengal dish dish is This is known known in in the Bouches-du-Rh6ne Bouches-du-Rhône district of quichel. district under under the name na me of Etichet. Archoyade II - Desalt of anchovy. Pound, moistenAncboyade IlDesalt fillets fillets of ing with and vinegar. with a a few few tablespoons I.2.blespoons olive oil oil and Spread this Cover with on large slices slices of of bread. bread. Cover [his pur6e on slices of eggs and minced onions. Add of hard-boiled eggs minced onions. Add aa few slices drops oil, season pepper and drops of of olive olive oi!, season with with freshly ground ground pepper heat heat lightly lightly in in the the oven. oven. Attereaux to the the method melhod of of cooking on Attereaux -- Name N ame given to skewers, skewers, in in which which the the ingredients, instead of of being grilled, are are coated coated with with a a sauce, sauce, dipped into into egg egg and breadcrumbs, and and fried. fried. All Ali the the ingredients Ingredients are first first cooked, then theo cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Any ingredient for attereaux Ingredient used used for allereaux must be be quite cold before it is put on on a a wooden wooden or or metal metal skewer. skewer. The different diiferent ingredients used used are are garnished garnished according according to ta their their nature with with mushrooms, mushrooms, truffes, truffles, etc. etc. The The sauce sauce must must be he thick thick and and almost almost cold. cold. When When the the skewer skewer is is full full and and coated coated with with sauce sauce itit is is left left to ta get quite quite cold before itÎI isis dipped into egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Attereaux are are fried just just before serving, drained and and dried, dried, arranged on on aa napkin napkin and and garnished garoished with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. If]f wooden waoden skewers skewers are are used used they they are taken taken out when the the cooking serving. cooking isis finished finished and and replaced by by silver skewers skewers for 1"''''''''~''J ..'l,n Use Use short short metal metal skewers instead instead of of wooden wooden ones ones if possible. This This does does away away with with the the necessity nece.ssity of of replacing replacing the the skewers after after cooking. cooking. In In ancient ancient times times attereaux attereaux wete were served served as as an an entrie entrée volante volante or or small small enftie. entrée. They were were served served in in a circle on aa crust crust of of fried fried sandwich sandwich bread, or or on on aa foundation foundation of of rice. nce. All of meat, meat, fish, fish, shellflsh shellfish and and aa variety variety of of other other Ali kinds kinds of food, food, cut eut into into small small square square pieces, pieces, can cao be he used used for for attereaux. attereaux. The The sauce sauce can can be he white white or or brown, brown, made made from from meat, meat, fish fish

or vegetable vegetable stock. stock, according according ta to the the principal ingredient ingredient of of or the atlereaux. attereaux. Thjs This ingredient given to ingredient rti>II the ... ,.,ml1nP< the name determines name given to the attereaux attereaux on on the the menu. menu. the Attereaux èi l'écarlate l'6carhte -- Pickled Pickled or or smoked smoked tangue, tongue, Attereaux mushrooms and and truffies trufres coated coated with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce sauce mushrooms (see SAUCE) puree added. SAUCE) with with tomato tomato purée added. (sec Attereaux àI la la Villeroi Villeroi -- Brains. Brains, cocks' cocks' combs combs or or combs combs of of Attereaux gras, sweetbreads. other birds. birds, foie sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'kidneys, etc. The The other kidneys, etc. foie gras, dish may may be be completed completod with with the the addÎtÎons additions of of mushrooms. mushrooms, dish pickled tongue, truffies, artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, pickled ham, etc. tongue, harn, etc. Poultry Poultry truffles. or other cold cold meat meat can can be be used used in in the same way. the same way. Coat with Coat with or Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Villeroi ATTEREAUX on ::::.:R crnveI,rn Attereaux of brain i I'ancienne. A TfEREAUX DE VELLE À A L'.a,NcIENNE -- Poached Poached brain, brain, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies trufles L'ANCIENNE coated with with Villeroi sauce (see SA SAUCE). coated UCE). Attereaux ofbnùn of brain àA ltitalienne. ATTEREAUX ATTEREAT.TX DE oe CERVELLE cERvnr-l.g À Attere1!UX A L'ITALIENNE -- Poached Poached brain, brain, haro ham and and mushrooms coated L'ITALIENNE coated with Duxelles sauce (see SA SAUCE). with U CE). la mirepoix. nirepoix. AATTEREAT.TX brain i la DE CER ctsRvELLE TTEREAUX DE VELLE Attereaux of bram A LA r.l MIREPOlX rr,rnnpoD( -.- Poached Poached brain and harn ham coated brain and coated with À with mirepoix (q.v.) of (see of vegetables blended blended with with Villeroi sauce (see mirepoix sAUCE). SAUCE). Attereaux of cbicken chicken livers èi hl la duxeUes. duxelles. AITEREAUX ATTEREAUX DE DE Attereaux FoIEs DE VOLAILLE voLATLLE À A LA r,c, DUXELLES ouxerrss -- Chicken Chicke,n Iivers livers browned fOIES lightly in butter and mushrooms eoaled coated with with Duxelles sauce (see SAUCE). (see Attereaux of of cocks' cocks' combs combs Ili l'ancienne. l'ancienne. AT11:lREAUX ATTEREAIx DE Attereaux cRErEs DE DE COQ coe ÀA r'lNcrrNr*s Cocks' combs combs stuffed stuffed àri la cR!n:.s L'ANCIENNE -- Cocks' /a (q.v.), ham &txelles (q.v.), and mushrooms coated coated with with Villeroi duxelles haro and (see SAUCE) with tomatoes. sauce (see Attereaux lobster. ATTEREATTx DE DE HoMARD Attereaux of lobs ter. ATTEREAUX HOMARD - Lobster, (see mushrooms and truffles trufres coated coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see mushroorns and SAUCE) or Shellfish Shellfish butter butter (see BUTTER', Compound Compound SA UCE) or (see BUTTER, butters\. butters). Attereaux of of oysters. ATTERBALx Attereaux ATfEREAUX n'HulTnns D'HuîTRES - Poached Poached (xe oysters and coated with with Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (see and mushrooms coated SAUCE) based on fish flsh stock. Attereaux i Lala royale and ài la Attereaux of of Parmesan, Pa!'tlleSSIl, also knonm knOWll as è princesse. ATTEREALx AU princesse. ATTBREAUX AU IARITTEsAN PARMESAN - Cook a stiff semolina with Spread out to with Parmesan. Spread 10 cool on a a baking sheet in a 2tctn. ~-cm. (finch) (i-înch) layer. layer. When quite cold, cut eut into ioto circlets 21 cm. l-cm. (l (1 inch) in diameter. diameter. Put these on the the skewers, skewers, alternating alternating with with rounds of Gruydre Gruyère cheese. cheese. Coat with egg and breadcrumbs, crumbs. but not with any sauce. Attereaux ATI"EREAUX DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS Attere.aux of sweetbreads. ATTEREALTX DE DE vEAUVEAU - Sweetbreads, Sweetbreads. mushrooms mushrooms and truffies coated coated with Villeroi VUleroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Attereaux Attereaux of various various vegetables vegetables. ATTEREATIx ATTEREAUX os DE LfcuMss LÉGUMESCooked Cooked or or parboiled vegetables, such such as as artichoke hearts, hearts, pumpkin, carrots, celeriac, etc. carrots, etc. One One of of these these or or various various combinations combinat ions can cao be used. Coat Coat with thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Barquetteg Barquettes., gamished. garnisbed. BARe{JETTEs BARQUETTES cARNTES GARNIES -- Oval-shaped tartlets tartlets lined lined with with different kinds kinds of of pastry (puff pastry, ordinary lining (pie) pastry, paslry, etc.) etc.) baked blind and filled with different ingredients. Roll out out the the pastry pastry 2l 2i mm. mm. ($ (~ inch) inch) thick. thick. Stamp Stamp the the dough dough out out with with aa fluted ftuted oval aval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Butter Butter barquette barquette baking baking tins, tins, plain or fluted. fluted. Put Put the the cut-out eut-out pieces of of pastry into into the the moulds, pressing pressing well weIl down down so that that they cling cling to to all sides sides of of the the tins. tins. Prick Prick the the pastry pastry lining lining the the base base of the the tins tins to to prevent prevent blistering. Put Put greaseproof greaseproof paper paper in in each each and fill fil 1 the the tins tins with with dried peas or or rice. rice. Bake Bake in in aa moderate moderate oven oyen for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Remove the the paper paper and and the the peas peas or or rice. rÎce. Take Take the tbe pastry pastry out out of of the the tins, tins. brush brush with with egg egg and and put put back baek into iOlo the the oven oven for for aa few few minutes minutes to to dry, dry, leaving leavll1g the the oven oven door door open. open. This This way way of of preparing prepanng pastry pastry is îs called caUro baking baking blind blind (un(un470

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE

filld). The The reason for filling filling the reason for the tartlets tartlets with with dried drid ve~~et
passthrough cup) warm warm milk. milk. Mix. Mix, do do not not let let curdle, curdle,pass through aa generous cup) strainer. Sieve Sieve 125 125 g.(4 oz., oz.,generous cup)white whiteBour flourand and 150g. oz., lf cups) buckwheatflour,and andmixtogetherwith 150 g. (5(5oz., mix pinchof salt. Put inaabowl ofsalt. bowland and addthe aapinch the liquid. Mix in the yolks of pasteshould of 33eggs. eggs. The The paste should have have theconsisteney yolks consistencyof of pancake batter batter and andcare careshould should be betaken takeotatokeep keepititlight. pancake light. place for rise in l*,avetoto rise inaawarm warm place for 22hours. hours. Leave (scant { pint, generous Add2 beaten egg eggwhites whitesand Add 2 beaten and2l dl. dl. (scant cup) whipped whipped cream. eup) cream. Cover Coverand and leaveto torise rise for 20minutes. minutes. Second Second method. method. Make Makeaa yeast batter batterusing using 250 250 g.g.(9(9 oz., 2f cups) cups) sifted yeas!and (scant I siftedflour, flour, 1515g.g. G oz.) yeast, and2! 2ldl. dl.(scant pint, generous generous cup) placefor cup) warm wann milk. Leave ininaawarm warmplace for 2 hours. hours. (4i oz., Add 125 125 g.g. (4!Add pinch of oz., generous cup) cup) flour, flour,aapineh ofsalt, salt,22 yolks and pint,3 egg yolks egg 1cup) and It lj dl.dl. $ pint, cup) warm wann milk. milk. Mix. Mix. Add Add 22 beaten egg beaten egg whites. whites. Cover Cover and and leave leave to to rise rise for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Third Third method. method. Put Put into into aa bowl bowl 250 250 g. (9 o2.,2| cups) buckwheat (1 oz.) buckwheat flour yeast. Moisten with 2i flour and and 25 25 g.e.0 oz.) yeast. 2+ dl. (scant -!* pint, pint, generous generous cup) (seant cup) warm warm water. water. Leave Leave to toferment ferment inin place for aa cool cool place for 44 hours. hours. Add Add 125 125 g. E.(4i oz., generous cup) fine white flour, a pinch of of salt, salt, 22 egg l| dl. dl. $ pint, 3 cup) wann cream. egg yolks and I-! Mix, Mix, add add 22 firmly firmly beaten beaten egg egg whites and half their their volume volume of of whipped whipped cream, cream, and and leave leave to to rise rise for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Blinis maiz.e(corn) (corn) Bour. Bliniscan rice Bour can also also be made of of rice flour or or maize be made flour. In France, blinis Cooking of of blinis. blinis.In are eooked cooked in in the blinis are thesame same wayas pancakes @rApes). way as ordinary pancakes In In Russia, cast-iron frying pans, Russia, blinisare are fried in special cast-iron divided 'nests', in divided into up to to 66 small, small, inclivj.dual individual in which up into Bat flat'nests', pancakes pancakes can They are very hot, hot, are served can be be cooked cooked at at once. once. They served very with cream, chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs in in with melted melted butter, butter, sour sour cream, melted herring, melted butter, caviare, smoked smoked salmon, salmon, ki/ki, kilki,salted sn'lted herring, and and other other similar'fishy' foods. foods. Blinis Arx CAROTTES Dice 1I tabletableBlinis with wift carrots. carrots. BLINIS BLINIS AUX cARorrrS -- Dice spoon pour the the blini blini mixture mixture and pour spoon carrots, carrots, cook cook in in butter butter and over. over. Continue Continue as as usual. usual. Blinis V1AR - Prepare the AU CA the blinis blinis Blinis witb wiih caviare. caviare. BLINIS BLINIs AU cAvIAR according methods described described above. to one one of of the the methods according to Serve piping hot Serve piping hot with with fresh fresh caviare, caviare, melted melted butter butter and and sour sour eream. cream. Blinis putting the BLTNIs AUX Ar.x OEUFS oruFs -- Before Before putting Btinis witb with eggs. eggs. BLINIS the blini blini mixture mnture into into aa buttered buttered frying pan, sprinkle sprinkle into into the the pan pan 1I tablespoon eggs. tablespoon chopped chopped hard-boiled eggs. Cook blinis in in the the usual usual way. way. Cook the the blinis Litbuanian LIVoNTENS -- Mix Mix inin aa bowl BLrMs LlVONŒNS bowl 44 Lithuanirn blinis. blinis. BLlNlS mblespoons (* cup) tablespoons (1 flour and and 44 whole whole eggs. Add, Add, !ittle little by by cup) Bour !iule, glasses of pinch of little, 44 glasses milk, aa pinch of of salt salt and aa pinch sugar. of sugar. of milk, Add (* cup) tablespoons (t cup) Add 44 beaten beaten egg egg whites and and 44 mblespoons whipped eream. cream. Cook n the Cook the the blinis blinis in the usual usual way. way. Brioches, garnished. BRJOCHES Briocheg gamished. BRrocHEs GARNIES cARNIES -- These These brioches brioches must be very small. They are are often often served served as as patties. be very small. They Use the Bake the unsweetened brioche brioche dough. Bake ordinary unsweetened Use ordinary brioches fluted moulds moulds in in the the shape shape of of Brioches Brioches brioches in in very very small small fiuted àd tête tAte (see BRIOCHE). BRIOCHE). Leave heads, keeping to Leave them to cool. cool. Remove Remove the the heads, keeping them them to the,m to serve not to to serve as as lids. lids. Scoop out out the the brioches, brioches, mking taking eare care not break few minutes minutes in in the the oven the break them. them. Dry Dry them for for aa few with the oven with door open. open. Small Brioches àd tête ftte may may be be filled filled with with the the same same ininSmall Brioches gredients (see below). garnished, gredients as as gwen for for PaUies Patties (see below). When When garnished, put put the put in the brioches and put in the the oven oven for for aa the heads back on on the brioches and few seconds. seconds. Small garnished brioches as an can be an accompaniSmall garnished brioches can be used usod as accompaniment for ment for large various kinds. kinds. large dishes dishes of of various Brocbett41:S - Prepare brochettes brochettes according according to to the the recipes Brochettes given (See SKEWER, given in in their order. (See SKEWER, BEEF, their alphabetical order.

ct

471 471

HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS.D'(EUVRE mutton on Fil/el of beef on on skewers, MUTION, Fillets Fille/s of mullon skewers, MUTTON, Fillet

Canapés bam. cANApEs CANAPÉS AU JAMBoN JAMBON - Cut Cut a sandwich Canapes with han. and toast. loaf Joar into oval-shaped slices and toast. Make a a salpicon salpicon of York or Prague Prague ham and blend it il with a concentrated Demiglace sauce SAUCE) sauce (see SA UCE) to which which chopped parsley parsley has has been added. Spread Spread the salpicon salpicon on the toast. each canapé. canapi. Fry slices of ham in butter and put one on on each Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried in butter. Sprinkle butter, sudines. c,tNApfs Canapés with wilh sardines. CANAPÉS AIx AUX SARDINES - Toast Canap6s sardines. rectangular rectangular pieces of bread. Cover Coyer with fillets fillets of sardines. Heat for a few moments in the oven. Arrange Arrange on aa napkin. Altnernatively, make sardines in oil, mixed make a puree purée of of sardines mixed with add aa little hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Rub Rub through through a a sieve sieve and and add !ittle English Spread on the canapés canapds and arrange fillets English mustard. Spread fil lets sardines in oil of sardines oil on top. Sprinkle with Sprinkle with breadcrumbs which have have been been fried in butter and drained well. weil. Put in the oven for a few minutes. Season serve. with aa pinch of cayenne cayenne and serve. lobster or salpicon of lobster Canape Victoria -- Make a Canapés a salpicon or spiny all cut into very small dice, lobster, trufres tmffies and mushrooms, ail (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and sauce (see blended with blended with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound finished off with Crayfish butter bul/er (see butters). lrnl/ers). with this this sa/pican, salpicon. Fry Spread toast Spread toast with Fry breadcrumbs breadcrumbs in sprinkle on the canapés. canapis. Put them in butter, drain well, weil, and sprinkle

skewers.) Brochel/es served as an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre should be very much Brochettes en/rée. smaller than those prepared for an entrie.

Brocbettes de de Parme - Another Another name for for Attereaux AUereaux of Brochettes

-

(See Attereanx Allereaux above.) above.) Parmesan. (Se BRocHETTES DE DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU. D'AGNEAU, Brochettes of sweetbreads. BROCHETTES cut calf sweetbreads, sweetbreads, eut RIS DE vEAU VEAU - Parboil Parboil or braise braise lamb lamb or calf RIs them on metal metal skewers, alternating altemating into square square pieces. Put thern and, with rectangles rectangles of lean lean blanched bacon or lean Jean ham ham and, with if desired, desired, with cooked, sliced mushrooms. brochelles with melted butter, butter, roll in fine breadBrush the brochettes crumbs and grill under aa moderate heat. (smrll gamished Caissettes (small gamisbed cases) -- Round or oval receptreceptCaissettes acles made of ovenproof china, china, glass or metal, filled with

(q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) or ragofits (q.v.), salpicons (q.v.) ragoûts or similar similar ingredients. same Recipes for these are given elsewhere; me as elsewhere; they are the sa barquettes, patties, pies, tartlets, etc. for barquelles, According to the nature of the garnish used used the cases are sprinkled with breadcrumbs sprinkJed breadcrum bs or grated cheese and put under grill. Alternatively, they the sprinkled with the grill. they may may be be sprinkled with welldrained fried breadcrumbs, and put in in the the oyen. A third drained fried and put oven. A third possibility decorate the cases with trufles, trumes, mushrooms, possibility is to decorate etc. garnished toast. Canapds or or gamisbed cANArfs, TOASTS ro^Lsrs GARNIS cARNIS Canapés toast. CANAPÉS, Cut the canapés canapis from aa sandwich loaf, having first removed the crust. Shape them, as required, into squares, rectangles, rectangles, ovals or rounds. Toast the slices on both sides, butter them or spread with whatever ingredient is indicated in the chosen (q.v.), pur6es, salpicon salpicon (q.v,), recipe eggs, purées, recipe (forcemeat, scrambled eggs, etc.). Garnish Garnish the the canapés canapis as as indicated, sprinkle with with freshly grated breadcrumbs, fried grated cheese, or grated grated fried breadcrumbs or to the garnish used, and according to them in and grill, or brown thern in oven. Arrange Arrange on a paper doyley or napkin napkin and decorate the oyen. with green curly parsley. for canapés from those canapis are are numerous. Apart from Garnishes for grven in you can recipes which in the which follow, follow, you giveo the recipes use a11 can use all those indicated indicatod in the section on Croûtes section on Crofrtes (see below), below). Canapds with bloater. bloater. CANAPÉS c.lN.lpfs AU BLoATm, Cut sandCanapés AU BLOATER - Cut wich Joaf bloater pur6e, purée, to loaf ioto into rounds and and toast. Heap the bloater (se SAUCE) and have been which Bichamel Béchamel sauce which sauce (see and butter have added, added, on the rounds, and and heat in the the oven. Alternatively, garnish the canapés canapis as indicated above, but grated Parmesan sprinkle them with grated Parmesan cheese and brown them in the oven. Canapes with bard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. CANAPÉS c.lNlpfs Ar,rx IEUFS DURSDrJRs Canapés AUX ŒUFS hard-boiled eggs blended blended with Bichamel Spread a salpicon of hard-boiled Béchamel (see SAUCE), on sauce (see on rectangular pieces of toast. toast. Coyer Cover sauce with two hard-boiled egg. Fry breade~ch each piece with two rounds of hard-boiled egg. Fry crumbs in and in butter, drain weil, well, sprinkle sprinkle on on the the canapés, cmmbs canapis, and brown lightly ligbtly in the oven. Canapes \\llh with scrambled scrambled eggs. Atrx ŒUFS truls Canapés egEs. CANAPÉS clNlpfs AUX of toast with scrambled scrambled eggs BROU1LLÉS BRouILLfs -- Coyer Cover rounds rounds of toast with grated Pannesan Parmesan chee cheese arranged in se in aa dome. dome. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated and and brown in the oyen. oven. la fiorcntine florentine -- Toast rounds of sandwich sandwich bread. Canapés bread. Canap€s ài la sieve. Blend Parboil sorne some spinach, spinach, drain and rub through through aa sieve, Parboil (se SAUCE) SAUCE) and and spread on the the with thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see grated Pannesan and brown in in toast. with grated Parmesan cheese and toast. Sprinkle Sprinkle with the oyen. oven. AU FROMAGE FRoMAGE DE Canapés cheese. CANAPÉS clNnpfs AU Canrp€s with with Gruyère Gnybre cheese, Bi c hame I of thick Béchamel GRUYÈRE cRUytRB -- Spread the the canapés canapis with a layer of (se SAUCE) to grated Gruyère and aa Gruyire cheese and sauce sauce (see to which grated pinch of cayenne have been been added. added. Scatter Scatter diced diced Gmyere Gruydre pinch cayenne have and brown in in the the oyen. oven. chee se over the cheese the canapés canapis and Canapés made in in the the same same way way with with Cheshire, Cheshire, Canapis can can be be made Edam or Pannesan Parmesan cheese.

the oven for a few moments. can be Cannelon$ gamished. Cannelons, gamisIH~d. cANNELoNs CANNELONS cARNIS GARNIS - These can as cornets. cornets. of rectangular rectangular shape or made as Rectangular. Roll out puff pastry in rectangles rectangles measuring (l| inches) 4 cm. (1 inches) by l0 10 cm. (4 inches). inches), of cold forcing-bag with a plain nozzle make make a line of Using a forcing-bag forcemeat or other mixture in the middle of the rectangles. rectangles. forcerneat cover with all around the forcemeat, and coyer Moisten the border Moisten border aU with pastry. Brush over with with egg egg and another rectangle of puff another puff pastry. bake in the oven. Cut the dough into straight ribbons Cornets. Cut Cornets. the dough into straight ribbons and and roll roll around special special'funnels' around 'funnels' (see CORNETS). and lill fill When the cornets are baked, take the funnels out and pur6e, fish or shellfish (q.v.), meat purée, the cornets. U* Use salpicons (q,v.), pur6e, purées should be rather thick. thick, purée, etc., fillings. The pur6es as fillings. etc., as patties, cassogarnishes given given for for barque/les, All barquettes, patties, the garnishes Ali the cannelons. lettes, and and similar dishes can can be be used lelles, used for canne/ons, glass, metal porcelain conor porcelain Individual glass, Casmlettes --. lndividual Cassolettes metal or arc for cassolelles cassolettes are The most most usual tainers. usual ingredients ingredients for tainers. The (q.v.), salpicons (q,v.) (q.v.) and pur6es, ragolÎts ragofits (q.v.), and similar preparapurées, tions. with the border. Fil! Fill the cassolelles cassolettes with Cassolettes without a border. Cassolelles preparation indicated. indicated. preparation Sprinkle wilh with breadcrumbs fried in butter and drained, or, Sprinkle grated cheese. Brown Brown for aa according to the recipe used, with grated few moments in the oyen. oven. few potato.Ufi of Duchess Duchess pO/aIO, border of Cassolettes wilh with a border Casso/elles Use a forcing(see potato (see prpe a thin Duchess potato border of of Duchess and pipe thin border bag bag and round the edge edge of the cassolelle, cassolette. POTATOES) round with breadFill with the the preparation indicated, sprinkle with Fill grated cheese, frid in in butter and and drained, or with grated cmmbs crumbs fried and brown in the the oyen, oven. and Prepare the Duchess potato. Cassolettes topped topped with with Duchess Casso/elles pOla/o. Prepare Fill as as described described recipe. Fil! cassolettes as as indicated in the above recipc. casso/el/es potato (see POTA Duchess potGlO POTATOES) and coyer cover with aa layer of Duchess and TOES) pressing down to seal in the the contents. contents. Brush down on on the edges to seal in the edges pressing the oven. the top with egg egg and and brown brown in the and covered wilh with puff Cassolettes with with border and Casso/elles puff pasrry. pas/ry. Put rim of the casso/elles. cassolettes. narrow band of puffpastry round the rinI a narrow preparation, which should be co cold Fill them with the desired preparation, Id lukewarm. or lukewarm. pastry. Press the cassolelles cassolettes with with aa round Cover the Cover round of puff pastry, flower-shaped ornawell onto with flower-shaped onto the the border. border. Decorate with weil puff pastry. made from from puff motifs made ments or or other other motifs ments pastry. Brush with

t

a

472 gondola, pAt6 served shaped like aa gondola. napkin shaped potato cris.ps, served in aa Ilapk.in fennel, pâté Hors d'œuvre: crisps, feltnel. d'cuvre: potalo (M oustache. PhOL Nicolas) prawn cocktail Phot. Nicolas) cocktail (Moustache. avocado, avocado, prawn

Yi

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE eggand and bake in the bakein the oyen ovenfor for 10 l0 toto 1212minutes. minutes. egg Cassolettesambassadriceambassadrice- Make Make aalid lidand andaaborder border for for the the Cassolettes cassolettes, using lusing Duchess potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (seePOT POTATOES). Fill cassolettes, A TOES). Fill with aa ragoût ragofrt of of chicken chicken Iivers. livers. Put Put in in the theoyen oven for for aa few few with minutes. minutes. Cassolettes bouquetière burquetilre -- Make Make the the border border of of the the cassocassoCassolettes lettes with wth Duchess potatoes (see Duchess potatoes (see POT POTATOES). Fill with with aa A TOES). Fill lettes macidoine of of vegetables vegetables with with cream. cream. macédoine Put in in the the aven. oven. When When removed removed from from the put 1I the oyen oven put Put tablespoon asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and aa little little knob knob tablespoon of cauliBower, cauliflower, on each cassolette. cassolette. oneach of Cassolettes ài la (with meat) la floreutine florentine (with IJse Duchess meat) -- Use Duchess Cassolettes potatoes (s@ POTATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes . (see POT ATOES) to make the top of the cassolettes. potatoes Put 1I tablespoon tablespoon spinach spinach leaves leaves cooked cooked in in butter butter at at the the Put bottom. Put Put 1I tablespoon tablespoon salpicon salpicon of of chicken chicken blended blended with with bottom. Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) on on the the spinach. spinach. Brown Brown in in the the Velouté oven. oyen. gauloise -- Use Cassolettes ài la la gauloise potatoes (see (see Use Duchess Duchess potatoes Cassolettes POTATOES) to make make the the border border of of the the cassolettes. cassolettes. Fill Fill POT A TOES) to with aa salpicon salpicon of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, truffles truffies and and with mushrooms blended blended with (se SAUCE). with Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE). mushrooms Brown in in the the oyen. oven. Wh When removed from pan put put aa from the the pan Brown en removed cock's comb comb fried fried àd la la Villeroi Villeroi on on each each cassolette. cassolette. cock's Cassolettes with with lobster lobster or or spiny spiny lobster. lobster. CASSOLETTES cAssoLETTEs AU AU Cassolettes HoMARD, A LA r,a LANGOUSTE L.lr.rcousrE -- Make Make the the border border or or top top of of HOMARD, À whatever preparation preparation you you desire. desire. Fill Fill with with aa salpicon salpicon of of whatever lobster or spiny spiny lobs lobster blended with with cream cream and and finished finished off off lobs ter or ter blended with Cray.fish (see BUTTER, Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Brown in in the the oyen. oven. Brown Cassolettes marquise marquise -- Make Make the the border puff pastry. border of pastry. of puff Cassolettes Fill with with Cray.fish Crayfish tail rago,frt àd la tail ragoût (see CRA la Nantua Nantua (see CRAyFISH) YFISH) Fill to which which diced diced truffies trufres and and mushrooms mushrooms have have been been added. added. to Bake in in the the oyen. oven. Bake Cassolettes Régence Regence -- Make Make aa border border of of Duchess Duchess potatoes Cassolettes potatoes (see POTATOES). Fill with a salpicon of breast of chicken (see POTA TOES). FiIl with a salpicon of breast of chicken and trufres cooked in Velouté Velouti sauce (se SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). and truffies cooked in Bake in oven. Put large slice of truffie slice of truffie on on each each Bake in the the oven. Put a a large cassolette the oven, oven, and cassolette when when removed removed from from the and cover cover with with a a small bouquet cooked in small bouquet of of asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in butter. butter. (without Cassolettes Sagan salpicon Cassolettes Sagan (without aa border) border) -- Fill FiII with with a a salpicon of cookd n Velouti sauce of truffies truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms cooked in Velouté sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Parmesan cheese. SAUCE). Sprinkle with with grated grated Parmesan chee se. Brown Brown in in the each cassolette very the oven. oven. When Wben taken taken out, out, put put on on each cassolette a a very small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain saut6od sautéed in in butter. butter. Cassolettes Cassolettes of of sweetbread. sweetbread. clssor,rrrEs CASSOLEITES DE DE Rrs RIS D'AcNEAU, D'AGNEAU, RIs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU - These These can can have have aa border border or or be be served served plain. plain. Fill FiII with with a a salpicon salpicon of of sweetbread sweetbread blended blended with with Velouti Velouté (see sauce SAUCE) to which which trufres truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms can can be be sauce (see SAUCE) to added, added, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Cassolettes la v6nitienne vénitienne (without (without aa border) border) -- Line Line the the Cassolettes ià la bottom of the bottom of the cassolettes cassolettes with with diced diced macaroni macaroni dà I'italienne. l'italienne. Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon ragofrt ragoût of of sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trufles truffies and and mushmushrooms, rooms, if if desired. desired. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. (U.S. Choux prfrs) cream paste Choux (U.S. cream puffs) -- Using Using Ordinary Ordinary chou chou paste (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), make make small smalt choux choux (cream (cream puffs), puffs) , the the size size of of pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. After After the the choux choux are are cooked, cooked, split split the the sides sides open open and and fill fill with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is is indicatod indicated in in the the recipe recipe used. used. Heat Heat for for aa few few moments moments in in the the oven. oven. IfIf the the choux choux are are small smaIl enough enough they they can can be be used used as as aa garnish garnish for for large large dishes, dishes, or or served served as as savouries. savouries. Choux Choux can can be be filled filled with with all ail the the preparations preparations recommended recommended for for barbarquettes, tartlets and and other other similar similar dishes. dishes. quettes, cassolettes, cassolettes, tartlets Choux Choux with with cheese. cheese. cHotx CHOUX AU AU FRoMAcE FROMAGE -- Filld Filled with with aa cream cream made made with with Cheshire, Cheshire, Gruydre Gruyère or or Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Choux Choux ià la la maraichire maraïchère -- Filled Filled with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of

carrots, leeks, leeks, celery celery -- ail all cooked cooked in inbutter butter and and blended blended with with carrots, (see SA thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). UCE). thick Choux àI lala Nantua Nantua -- Filled pur6e of Filld with with aa purée of crayfish crayfish to Choux to whichchopped chopped truffles trufres have havebeen been added. added. which Choux àI lala royale royale -- Filled puree of Filled with with aa purée of truffies trufles with Choux with cream. cream. Chonx ài lala Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Filled pur6e of Filled with with aa purée game of game Choux blended with (see SA with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based on on conconblended UCE) based game stock. centrated game stock. centrated la strasbourgeoise Choux ài la strasburrgeoise -- Filled Filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of foie Choux foie gras and and truffies truffies blended blended with with concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace gras (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce Choux ài la h toulousaine toulousaine -- Filled Filld with with aa salpicon salpicon of of sweetsweetChoux breads, cocks' cocks'combs and cocks' cocks'kidneys, mushrooms and and breads, combs and kidneys, mushroùms trufles blended (see SAUCE). blended with Allemande sauce with Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). truffies Choux au au vert-pré vert-pr6 -- FiIled Filled with puree of green beans, with aa purée of green beans, Choux green peas peas and and asparagus asparagus tips tips blended blended with with cream. cream. green (Polish cookery) Cierniki (Polish cookery) -- Mix Mix in g. (8 (8 oz.) in aa terrine terrine 225 225 g. oz.) Cierniki pressed white g. (4 (4 oz., white cheese, cheese, 100 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) sifted g. pressed sifted flour, flour, 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., i* cup) cup) melted melted butter butter and and 33 eggs. eggs. Season Season with with salt, sali, (2 pepper and grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. Blend Blend these these ingredients ingredients with with aa pepper spatula and gradually work and gradually work in in aa further g. (3 further 75 75 g. oz., -iI cup) spatula cup) Q oz., flour. flour. Experiment with with poaching 1I teaspoon teaspoon of of this this mixture mixture in in Experiment boiling water. water. If If itit isis not not thick thick enough enough add add aa little little more more boiling flour, if if itit isis too too thick, thick, lighten lighten itit with with 1I or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons Bour, cream. Sprinkle flour flour on on aa table and and roll roll the the mixture mixture out out on Sprinkle on it. galettes 55 cm. (2 inches) Shape into into small galelles cm. (2 inches) in in diameter and Shape cm. (i inch) thick. thick. Poach Poach for for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes in in boiling 1I cm. G inch) drain, arrange in in aa pie dish dish and and pour melted butter water, drain, over them. over Cocks' combs. combs. CRÊTES cn6res DE DE COQ coe -- For For two two recipes recipes using Cocks' cocks' combs see se Attereaux Attereaux and and, Fritot in this section. section. cocks' Cocks'combs Villeroi. CRÊTES cnErrs DE DE COQ coe VILLEROI vrLLERor -- Drain Cocks' combs Villeroi. cocks' combs cooked cooked in in aa white court-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) and cocks' put lukewarm Villeroi (se SAUCE). Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE). put them in a lukewann Take them out and dip than Take them one by one in finely grated breadcrumbs. Each cock's comb must be completely covered. Dip in beaten ed. Dip in beaten egg and again in breadcrumbs. Fryjust Fry just before serving and heap on aa napkin or arrange in in a nest of straw potatoes. Garnish Garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce or or Pirigueux Périgueux sauce(see sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Sfufrd Stuffed cocks' cocks' combs combs Villeroi. Villeroi. cnfirBs CRÊTES DE DE ooe COQ FARcrEs FARCIES vILLERoT VILLEROIChoose very large large cocks'combs. cocks' combs. Cook, and then th en - Choose open open them on the fleshy fieshy side without without cutting right right through. through. Stuffthem Stuff them with with aa little \ittle forcemeat. Complete Complete the the cooking cooking and serying seJ,'Ving as in the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe. Cocks' Cocks' combs combs can can be be stuffed stuffed with with forcemeats, forcemeats, or or pur6es purées of mushrooms, mushrooms, foie foie gras, gras, different different vegetables, vegetables, duxelles duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), brunoise brunoise (q.v.), (q.v.), portugaise portugaise (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. Cocks' Cocks' kidneys. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE DE coe COQ - Cook kidneys kidneys in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon I1 (see (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. COURT-BOUILLON). Then follow follow any any of of the the recipes recipes for for cocks' cocks' combs combs in in this this section. section. Colombines Colombines -- Line Line buttered buttered tartlet tartlet tins tins with with a a semolina semolina mixture mixture flavoured flavoured with with Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Fill Fill the the tins tins with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.), (q.v.), aa pur6e purée or or any any other other mixture mixture generally generally used used for for barquettes, barquettes, patties patties and and similar similar dishes. dishes. Cover Cover with with aa thin thin layer layer of of semolina. semoIina. Dip Dip the the tins tins into into wann warrn water water and and lurn Jurn out out the the tartlets. tartlets. Dip Dip them them in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Serve Serve with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Craquelins -- Croquettes Croquettes prepared prepared with with stuffed stuffed pancakes pancakes ..Craquelins (cr€pes). (crêpes). This This hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre isis better better known known under under the the name name of ofpannequet. pannequet. Crayfish. Crayfish. tcnsvrssss ÉCREVISSES -- Small Small crayfish, crayfish, cooked cooked dà h la nage, nage, dà la la mariniire, marinière, or or dà la la liigeoise, liégeoise, can can be be servod served as as hot hot ftorshorsd'euvre. Crayfish tails tails are are often often used used as as the the principal principal d'œuvre. Crayfish 473 473

Vegetables : radishes, carrots, celery, artichokes Vegetables: radishes, carrots, celery, artichokes and pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans ( phot. Nicolas) and pumpkin with cooking pan and saucepans (Phol. Nicolas)

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE ingredients ingredients and and the Ihe croquettes croquettes served served with with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce

ingredient ingredient in in hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre such such as as fitters, fltters, croquettes, croquettes, stuffed sluffed potatoes, potatoes, rissoles, rissoles, souff6s soufflés or or tartlets. tartlets.

(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Diced Diced mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles can can also also be be added added to 10 the the ingredients ingredients of of fish fish croquettes. croquettes. Foie Foie gras gras croquettes croquettes tà ta la P6rigueux. Périgueux. cRoQUETTES CRùQUETI"ES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS A À r,c, LA pfntcurttx PÉRIGUEUX -- Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras gras and and truffies, trumes, blended blended with with a a very very strong strong Demi'glace Demi-glace sauce sauce flavoured flavoured with with Madeira, Madeira, or or with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape into into little little flat fiat cakes, cakes, and and serve serve with with Pdrigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE), Foie Foie gras gras croquettes croquettes ià la III reine. reine, cRoQUETTES CROQUETfES DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAs GRAS A À LA LA REINE REINE -- Salpicon Salpicon of of foie foie gras, gras, bound bound with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Shape Shape into into little little flat fiat cakes cakes and and serve serve with SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SAUCE), adding adding truffies' Iruffies. Game Game croquettes. cRoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE cIBIER GIBIER -- Salpicon Salpicon of of game garne left-overs, left-overs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffieq truffles, blended blended with witb very very concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (sa (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce basd based on on concentrated concenlraled game game stock. stock. On the the menu, name name the the croquettes croquettes after arter the the game game which which pheasant $oquettes, is is predominant predominant in in their their preparation, preparation, e.9., e.g.,pheasan/ croquelles, etc. vvenison o quet t e s, etc. enison cr croquelles, Croquettes Croquettes can can be be prepared prepared from from a a mixture mixture of of different diffcrenl kinds kinds of of game. game. I. cnoQuerrEs Lobster croquettes I. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Salpicon Salpicon of of lobster lobstcr to which diced diced mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffles have have been been SAUCE). added, added, blended with with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). White wine sauce (see Serve Serve with with White >vine sauce SAUCE). II. cnoQunrrss Iobster Lobsler croquettes croquettes H. CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Salpicon Salpicon with Allemande and trufres, of lobster, lobs ter, mushrooms mllshrooms and truffles, blended blended with Allemande (see (se SAUCE), butter (see with Crayjish Crayfish buller SAUCE), finished sauce (sec finished with sauce shellfish butter. butters) or Compound bUllers) BUTIER, Compound BUTTER, or any any shellfish butter. (see SAUCE). sauce (sec SAUCE). Lobster sauce Serve with with Lobsler TwoDE HoMARD III. CROQUETI"ES cnoQurrrEs DE Lobster croquettes croquettes m. Lobster HOMARD -- Twoor in meat rice cooked cooked in one-third rice lobster, one-third salpicon of of lobster, thirds thirds salpicon meat or fish stock. fish (se SAUCE) white made with with white SAUCE) made sauce (sec with Lobs/er Lobster sauce Serve with wine. It isis shellfish. It preparation appHes to ail all shellfish. applies to of preparation This method method of This practical way up left-overs. left-overs. way of of using aa practical using up potato quantity of left-overs, potato of left·overs, not aa slIfficient sufficient quantity If there isis not If pur6e to the the salpicon. salpicon. rice can can be be added added to or rice purée or MAcADE MACAcRoQUETTES DE valentinoise. CROQUETTES Mraroni croquettes croquettes valenllnoise. Macaroni with blended with of big macaroni, blended Salpicon of big macaroni, VALENTINoIsE -- Salpicon Rortr VALENTINOISE RONl grated cheese (see SAUCE) cheese which grated SAUCE) to to which Bicharnel sauce sauce (sec thrck Bechamel truck has been added. been added. has cm. in aa layer layer 1I cm. shallow dish dish in macaroni on on aa shallow Spread the the macaroni Spread (q.v.) àd la la Nan/ua to Nantun to layer of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) Add aa layer inch) thick. thick. Add
Cromesquis Cromesquis -See - See Kromeskles Kromeskies in in this this section. section.

of croquettes croquettes made made of of pasta, pasta, Croquets -- A A variety va ri et y of Croquets

macaroni, macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, etc. etc. Begin by by poaching poaching the the pasta pasta in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, and and Begin eut into ioto dice. dice. Blend Biend with with thick tbick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (seo (see SAUCE) SA UCE) cut and add add grated grated cheese. cheese. and preparation can be be finished finished off with with lean leao ham ham or This preparation scarlet tongue tongue cut eut into ioto julienne julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) strips. Serve Serve with with scarlet Toma/o sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato Croquettes served served as as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre are Croquettes -- Croquettes of one one or several several preparations preparations cut into into small dice dice composed of (or, in in certain certa in cases, cases, chopped). They They are are blended blended with with aa white whi te brown sauce sauce based based on on meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable stock. or brown (See CROQUETTES.) CROQUETTES.) Beef Bee! croquettes croquettes I. cnoeusrrEs CROQUETIES DE DE BoELJF BOEUF -- Minced Minced boiled beef, blended blended with with a a beaten beaten egg; egg; and and choppod chopped parsley. parsley. beef, according to taste. Shape according Serve with Tomato Toma/o sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE), Becf Beer croquettes croquettes II. Il, cnoQUETTEs CROQUETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - Salpicon of of boiled boiled beef, beef, mushrooms and and lean ham, ham, blended blended with with concentrated cenlrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE), SA UCE), and and shaped according to taste. las le. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Piquant Serve Piquant sauce sauce (see cRoQuETTEs DE croquettes III. Beef Bee! croquettes m. CROQUETTES DE BoEUF BOEUf - Salpicon Salpicon of of and lean boiled boiled beef beef and Iean ham, ham, blended blended with with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel (se SAUCE). Shape Shape according to sauce (see to taste. taste. Serve with with Tomato Toma/o sauce (see SAUCE). Two-thirds fV. cRoQLJETTEs Beef croquettes croquettes IV. Beer CROQUETTES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - Two-trurds meat stock. one-third rice cooked in meat salpicon of boiled beef, one-Ihird salpicon Shape according to taste. (se SAUCE). sauce (sec Tomato sauce Serve with with Tomalo Serve of DE BOEUF BoEUF -- Salpicon Salpicon of V. CROQUETI"ES cnoQUETTES DE croquettes V. Bee! croquettes Beef (pressed beef) with Demi-glace sauce blended with corned beef (pressed beef) blended or Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE). (se SAUCE). SAUCE) sauce (sec Serve with Tomalo Tomato sauce Many preparations can Bed croquettes made of left-overs. Many Beef different ingredients to the the boiled boiled beef different be made made by adding 10 be by adding vegetables, chopped vegelables, lettuce, celery celery or or olher other chopped like spinach, spinach, lettuce, like tomato grated cheese, cooked in in butter, butter, lomato chopped onion onion cooked cheese, chopped grated mirepoix of of pur6es of dried vegetables, vegetables, mirepoix of fresh fresh and and dried fondue, fondue, purées etc. in milk, elc. rn bouillon or in soaked in vegetables, bread bread soaked vegetabIes, D'AMouRnrrEs -CRoQUETTES D'AMOURETTES croquettes. CROQUETI"ES Bone-marrow croquettes. with mushrooms blended blended with and mushrooms of bone-marrow bone-marrow and Salpicon of Salpicon (see SAUCE). corks and and Shape 10 to look like corks SAUCE). Shape Allemande sauce sauce (sec Allemande (see SAUCE) separately. sauce (sec SAUCE) separately, Tomato sauce serve sewe Tomalo Brain croquettes. DE CERVELLE croquettes. CROQUETIES cRoeuETTEs DE cERVELLE -- Prepare lilike ke Brain or of shecp's sheep's or salpicon of using aa salpicon Bone-marrow croquelles croquettes using Bone-marro>v to taste. taste. according to Shape according calf's calf's brain. brain. Shape also DE MORUE MoRLJE -- These These are are also cnoeuerrEs DE Cod croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES Cod They are made of of two-thirds cakes. They are made or fish fish cakes. called fisb fish balls balls or called pieces, into pieces, drained, and and cut cut into cooked. drained, should be be cooked. cod, which which should cod, (see POTATOES) potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess po/a/oes with onc-third one-third Duchess mixed with mixed (se SAUCE). Shape SAUCE). Shape sauce (sec thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce with thick blended with blended into balls. balls. into (se SAUCE). sauce (sec SAUCE). Tomato sauce Serve with with Toma/o Serve Pur6e of of cnnssoNNrine -- Purée cnoQUETTES CRESSONNiÈRE Cress croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Cress (see POTATOES) potatoes (sec POTATOES) Duchess polaloes to which which Duchess watercress to watercress (see SAUCE) SAUCE) Velouti sauce sauce (sec Blend with with Velouté added. Blend have been been added. have to tasle. taste. herbs. Shape Shape according according to mixed herbs. flavoured wilh with mixed flavoured A salpicon salpicon DE POlSSONS PolssoNs -- A cRoeLJETTES DE Fish croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Fish prescribed, blended with blended with of the the fish fish prescribed, solely of composed solcly composed (see SAUCE). accordSAUCE). Shape Shape accordAllemande sauce sauce (see or Allemande Bicharnel or Béchamel fish with Ihe the fish in character character with with aa sauce sauce in and serve serve with ing to to taste taste and ing for the croquettes. used for the croquettes. used balls. in the shape of of balls. the shape are usually usually served served in These croquettes croquettes are These (see POTATOES) to the the be added added 10 potatoes (see should be POTATOES) should Duchess pola/oes Duchess 474 474

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Servewith (seeSAUCE). with White White wine wine sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve Noodle croquettes. croquettcs. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DENOUILLES Nourr,rrs- - Prepare, Prepare, NoodJe cook and and serve serye as as Macaroni Macaroni croquettes (see croquettes valentinoise valentinoise (see cook above) using using ordinary ordinary or or small small noodles noodles instead instead of of macaroni. macaroni. above) Oyster croquettes croquettes ài la la normande. normrnde. CROQUETTES cRoer.rETTEs D'HUîTRES o'HulrnEs ÀA Oyster LA NORMANDE NoRMANDE -- Salpicon poached oysters, Salpicon of of poached oysters, mushrooms mushrooms LA and trufHes truffies blended blendedwith with Allemande (see SAUCE). Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and Shape into into fiat flat cakes cakes and and serve (see serve with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see Shape SAUCE). SAUCE).

Servewith (seeSAUCE) withaaCream Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE)totowhich parsley whichparsley Serve andchervil chervilhave havebeen beenadded. added. and Ricecroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ rtrz- - Rice Rice Ricecooked cookedinin meat,fish fishor or vegetable vegetablestock, plainororwith stock, plain gratedcheese meat, withgrated cheese added. added. Serve with (se SAUCE). with Tomato Tomatosauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve Ricecroquettes croquettes ài l'américaine. I'am6ricaine. CROQUETTES Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz ÀA t'.aufnrcArNs - - Rice Ricecooked cookedininfish L'AMÉRICAINE fishstock stocktotowhich whichaasalpicon salpicon of Lobster Lobster àdl'américaine (seeLOBSTER) l'amiricaine (see LOBSTER)has hasbeen of beenadded. added. Serve with (seSAUCE). with American Americot sauce sauce (sec Serve SAUCE). Curried riCe rice croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES Curried cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ ntzÀAL'INDIENNE r'rNDIEr{Ne- Rice cooked cooked ininaa meat, meat, fish fish or Rice or vegetable vegetablestock towhich stock to whichisis addedaasalpicon salpicon of of onions, onions, cooked cooked in added in butter butteruntil untilsoft, soft, and and blended with with aafew fenr tablespoons tablespo ons of (see SA blended UCE). ofCurry Currysauce sauce(see SAUCE). Rice croquettes pi6montaise. CROQUETTES croquettes ài lala piémontaise. Rice cRoeuETTEs DE DERIZ Rtz ÀALA LA pduoNrarsn -- Risotto Risotto àd laIa piémontaise piimontaise (see (see RICE) PIÉMONTAISE RICE)served served (see SAUCE). with Toma{o Tomafosauce sauce (see SAUCE). with pr LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster lobstercroquettes. croquettes. CROQUETIES Spiny cRoerJETTFs DE rA,NcousrE - - As As for Lobster Lobster croquettes (see above) croquettes (sec above) using for using aa salpicon salpiconof of spiny spiny lobster instead instead of of lobster. lobster. lobster (various). CROQUETTES Vegetable croquettes Vegetable croquettes (various). cRoer.JETTFs DE os LÉGUMESrfculms Salpicon of of cooked cooked vegetable, Salpicon vegetable, blended blended with with Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see Serve with Serve with Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). sauce or or Cream Creun sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Vegetable croquettes croquettes are Vegetable are usually usually made made from from artichoke artichoke hearts, carrots, hearts, carrots, celeriac celeriac or or French French beans. beans. They They can can also also be be prepared using prepared using aa macédoine macidoine of of vegetables. vegetables. Croquettes Croquettes ài la la viennoise viennoi* -- Salpicon Salpicon of of lamb lamb sweetreads, sweetreads, lean ham, ham, mushrooms lean mushrooms and and chopped chopped onions, onions, cooked cooked in in butter untiJ butter until soft, soft, and (see and blended blended with with thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) seasoned paprika. Shape seasoned with with paprika. Shape into into small small rectrectangles, angles, and and fry. fry. Arrange Arrange in garnish the in aa circle circle and and garnish the centre centre with aa heap with heap of of fried fried onions. onions. Serve Serve with (se SAUCE) with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (sec SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Croustades Croustades -- Small, Small, filled filled croustades, croustades, made made of Duchess of Duchess potatoes (sec (see POTATOES), potatoes POTATOES), rice, rice, semolina semolina or paste or Lining Lining paste (see DOUGH) are (see are used used as as hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Croustades Croustades of potatoes. Make of duchess duchess potatoes. Make aa very very thick thick duchess duchess potato mixture. mixture. Roll out out on on aa fioured floured table table to to aa thickness thickness of of (lj inches). about cm. (H about 3! 31cm. Cut piees about Cut out out pieces (2 inches) about 55 cm. cm. (2 inches) across, across, using using aa pastry-cutter. Dip pastry-cutter. Dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs twice. twice. With pastry-cutter mark With aa smaller smaller pastry-cutter mark out out the the lid lid of of the the croustade by by pressing on it, Fry on il. Fry the the croustades. croustades. Remove Remove the the Iids. lids. Hollow Hollow out out the the croustades and and fil fill1 as as directed directed in in the the th the recipe chosen. Coyer Cover wi with the Iids. lids. Serve the the croustades on aa napkin napkin or paper doyley. Croustades of Prepare as described above, of rice or senwlina. semolina.Prepareas above, but using rice or semolina semolina cooked in aa meat, fish or vegetable vegetable stock, bound with egg egg yolks, and and spread on aa slab slab to to cool. cool. Croustades made pastry). Line croustad~ (tart pasty).Line made of of lining lining paste (tart croustade mou Ids with lining paste, following the directions given moulds given for for barquettes. Bake Bake the pastry blind. barquettes. blind. Garnish as as described described in the the recipe chosen. Croustades ài I'alsacienne l'alsacienne -- Make Cronstades Make the the croustades croustades using using Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES). Duchess POTATOES). Fill Fill with with braised braised croustade a slice sauerkraut. Put on each each croustade slicn of of harn ham and and aa round round of poached Strasbourg sausage. of sausage. l'anversoise -- Make Make the Croustades ià I'anversoise Croustades the croustades croustades using using duchess potatoes. Fill with hop shoots shoots with cream. Croustades ià la la bretonne -- Make Make the croustades using using Cronstades the croustades of Fresh Fresh white white beans beans d à la duchess potatoes. potatoes. Fill with aa pur6e purée of duchess la bretonne (see BEAN). BEAN). bretonne forestière -- Make Make the croustades using Croustades Ià la forestibre Cronstades the croustades using potatoes. Cut out out with with an an oval oval pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. Fill Fil 1 duchess potatoes. Put on on each each uoustadc croustade aa morels saut6ed sautéed with with parsley. Put with morels small rectangle of of blanched lean lean bacon bacon browned browned in in butter. butter. small

Veal croquettes croquettes (Scarnali) (Scarnati) Veal

Oyster croquettes croquettes Victoria. Victoria. CROQUETTES cRoeuETTEs D'HUîTRES D'HUITRES Oyster vIcroRIA Salpicon of of lobster, lobster, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies VICTORIA -- Salpicon blended (ser', SAUCE). with Béchamel Bichamel sauce (sec SAUCE). Put in the middle middle blended with of each croquette aa poached poached oyster coated coated with with Allemqnde Allemande of (se, SAUCE) and sauce and finished finished with (see with Crayfish butter butter (see sauce (see BUTTER, Compound butters) butters\ or any other shellfish shellfish butter. BUTTER, Compound flat cakes. Shape into fiat (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve with Lobster sauce sauce (sec poMMEs DE Potato cRoer.JETTEs DE DE TERRE rERRE -Potato croquettes. croquettes. CROQUETTES DE POMMES Potato Potato croquettes are usually served without sauce. Potato croquettes Dauphin6 -- See POTATOES, Dauphini croquettes Daupbiné POT ATOES, Dauphiné potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs Potato Potato croquettes croquettes ià la florentine -- cRoeuETrES CROQUETTES DE POMMES DE À ric, LA TToRENTTNE FLORENTINE - Two-thirds Duchess potatoes DE TERRE TERRE A (see (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) mixed with one-third one-third spinach cooked in butter. Add 50 g. (2 oz., t cup) grated Parmesan Pannesan cheese for ".rp) each 500 g. (18 oz., 2f 2i cups) potato and spinach mixture. mixture. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes ià la nigoise. niçoise. cRoeuETTEs CROQUETTES DE poMMEs POMMES DE rERpln TERRE A À u, LA rugors NIÇOISE - Duchess potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) mixd mixed with with 2 dl. $ (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) thick Tomato Tomato fondue dà la la nigoise niçoise (see (see TOMATO) TOMATO) for each 500 g. (18 oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) potato. potato. Potato Potato croquettes croquettes with witb Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cbeese. ca.oeurTTEs CROQUETTES DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE A À r,c, LA pA,RITESANE PARMESANE - Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (ser-, (sec POTATOES) POTATOES) with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. For For each 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 o2.,2f, oz., 2i cups) cups) potato potato add add 50 50 g. g. (2 oz.,l oz., cup) cup) cheese. cheese. Cheshire or Gruydre Gruyère cheese cheese can can also also be be added to to potato Cheshire or croquettes. croquettes. Poultry CROQUETTES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Salpicon Salpicon of PouItry croquettes. croquettes. cRoeuETTEs poultry poultry meat, meat, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies, trufHes, btended blended with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce, sauce, Pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce or or Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (sw PrintaniBre Printanière croquettes croquettes -- Spring Spring vegetables vegetables blended blended with with Bicharnel Béchamel sauce sauce or or Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (sec SAUCE). SAUCE).

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE and cut Croustades ià la grecque -- Make Make ie rice croustades croustades and Cranstades Tomalo fonfue dà la grecqrc grecque (see into oval shapes. Fill with Tomato onionringswhich TOMATO). Put on eachuoustade3 cach crouslade onion rings wruch have

nutmeg. nutmeg. Sprinkle grated grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter butter on on the the crofltes croûtes and brown. brown. Cro0tes Crootes Iai la Clamart Clamart (Vegetarian (Vegetarian recipe) redpe) - Garnish Garnish with with aa puree purée of of fresh fresh peas peas mixed mixed with with fresh [resh cream. cream. Devilled Devilled cro0tes. c roo tes. cno0rss CROÛTES A À LA onnrr DIABLE - Garnish Garnish with with aa salpicon salpicon of of York York ham ham and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended with with aa strong Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (se (see SAUCE), seasoned with with a a pinch pinch of cayenne. Sprinkle with with fried breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown. brown. cayenne. Sprinkle Cro0tes Cro(ltes Dubarry Dl.lbar:ry - Garnish with with florets florets of of cauliflower caulifiower cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Coat with with Mornay sance sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkle with grated cheese, and brown. brown. Cro0tes iIl la 1a livoniennelh'ontenne - Garnish with a pur6e purêc of of soft roes of of smoked herring herring with the addition additÎon of Bdchamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE). Put a a little little salpicon of of fillets flllets of of smoked herrings and aod tart lart apples on each cro0te. croûte. Sprinkle \4'ith with fried friee! breadcrumbs and brown. Cro{ites Crolltes .à la lyonnaise lyollDaise - Garnish with with dic€d diced boiled boiled beef saut6ed sautéed in butter and mixed with an equal quantity of of diced dÎced onions tossed tossed in butter. butter. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, l"\"p'~I1'(,"""'tnr,,,, pour butter over the cro0tes, croûtes, and brown. Pour Pour a little little lemon lemon juice chopped parsley. sprinkle with chopped or vinegar on them and sprinkle parsley. Muslrroom Musbroom cro0tes. croOtes. cno0ms CROÛTES Atrx AUX cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS -- Garnish Garnish small mushrooms d I'allemandc. with a ragofrt ragoût of srnal1 mushroorns à l'allemande. small, round, Mushroom cro0tes croOtes are are made made from from small, round, crusty in the rolls. Scoop out ro11s. Scoop out the the rolls, ro11s, butter butter them them and and brown brown in oven. The cro0tes croûtes can also be made from French bread cut thick slices and prepared in the same way as the rolls. Ia crime sometimes called Tourte de champignons champignons d à la crème is also sometimes mushroom croûte. crofrte. mushroom with coarsely chopped Cro0tes liI la paysanne Croûtes paysan.ne 1I -- Garnish with grated until soft. Spnnkle Sprinkle with in butter until vegetables cooked in ve~:etêlbl,es with grated cheese and brown. brown. stock-pot vegetr - Garnish Garnish with "',",T'v_nn. Cro0tes à la paysanne Crootes pa~rSJllme n grated cheese. Finish as in the mixd with grated tables chopped and rnixed tables previous recipe. provengale - Garoish with Tomato fondue Garnish with Crofftes la Dr()VenClElle (see FONDUE). Put4 blaclq stoned olives, each surrounded surrounded olives, each with fried on each each croOte. Sprinkle with fillet of of anchovy, 00 crotte. Sprinkle by aa fillet fried with chopped chopped Heat in in the the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with breadcrumbs. Heat breadcrumbs. parsley. la reine Garnish with with aa salpicon of poultry, Cro0tes à la reine - Garnish sance blended with with thiek Veloutd sauce truffies and and mushrooms, blended truffies in (see SAUCE), sprinkled Brown in sprinklod with with fried fried breadcrumbs. Brown (see the oven. with àd gratinforcemeat roucnnaise -- Garnish with Cro0tes ili la rouellDaÎ.Se CroCHes (see FORCEMEAn Rouen made, whenever whenever possible, of Rouen FORCEMEAT) made, (see DUCK). for aa minute in in the oven. DUCK). Heat for duckling livers (see hollow of of the Fill the hollow each croûte. croflte. FiU Put a grilled mushroom on eacn (se very thick Bordelaise sauce sauce (sec thick Bordelaise with aa litÙe little very mushroom with sAUCE). SAUCE). FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE -- GarGarliver. CROÛTES cro0rss DE DE FOIE witt skate skate liver. Cro0tes wid:! Croûtes liver cooked court-bouillon cooked in aa courl-bouillon nish with aa salpicon salpicon of skate Iiver rush (q.v.). Pour with salt salt and and pepper melted butter, butter, seasoned seasoned with Pour melted (q.v.). juice, over the salpicon. salpicon Put Put in the lemon juice, over the and aa squeeze squeEze of of lemon and dish, sprinkle sprinkle liver 00 on aa dish, Arrange the the croûtes cro0tes with the the liver oven. Arrange oven. juice parsley, squeeze of lemon lemon juice squeeze aa few few drops drops of chopped parsley, with chopped with pour aa little on them. them. little brown butter on before serving serving pour over, and and before over, LAITANcgS -- Garnish Garnish roes. CROÛTES cto0rss AUX Atrx LAITANCES witr soft soft mes. Cro0tes wid:! CroOtes herrings. Sprinkle with fned fried breadbreadroes of fresh herrings. Sprinkle with with soft soft roes of fresh wÎth put in the the oven. oven. crumbs and put crumbs ham, smoked or with barn, smoked or la zinga..ra zingara - Garnish Garnish with Cro0tes à la Croiltes with pickled tongue cut ioto strips and and blended blended with and truffies trufres eut into strips tongue and pickled SAUCE). Put Put aa sauce (se SAUCE). Demiglace sauce tomato-flavoured Demi-glace tomato-flavoured on each each ham and and aa grilled mushroom mushroom on slie of heated ham round slice of heated round garnished croûte. cro0te. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. garnished Apart from from the the above above recipes, recipes given for barquettes, cassolettes, etc., etc., can can be be applied to garnished cro0tes. cm~·SOtel.res, (compound) (U.S. chopettes). cdrslsrrEs COMcol,lCutlets (compound) Cutlets

been been dipped dipped in batter batter and fried. fried.

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Croustades à la marinilre marinière - Make Make the the croustades using using Croustad€s Lining paste pasle (see DOUGH). Fill Fil! with a ragofrt ragoût of of Mussels Mussels dà Lining la mariniire marinière (see MUSSEL). MUSSEL). Croustades li la Monbouge M,.".,....,..."'" - Make the the croustades using using Cronstad€s FiJI with a a pur6e of mushrooms mushrooms with cream. cream. lining paste. Fill Croustades à la napolitaine - Make tbe the uoustades croustades using Croustades ,:.,naç!J~elll d à la napolitaine (se (sre SPAGpaste. Fill FiJI with Spaghetti lining paste. HETTI). HETTD. Croustades à la nivemaise nivernaise - Make Make the the croustades tsing using Crqrstodes Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes (see (see POTATOES). Fill Fil! with with very very small glazd carrots. each croustade a glazed carrots. Put Put on on each a bouquet of of very small glazed onions. Croustades Ià la turlousaine toulousaine -- Make the croustades tsing using Crurstades cods' kidneys and forcea ragofrt of cocks' lining paste. Fill with a meat blended with SuprAme sauce (se (see SAUCE). Put Put on meat each croustade a a small slice of calf's sweetbread, sweetbread, a slice slîce of eaeh croustade truffle and and a cock's comb. trufle the croustades Croustades vert-pr€ vert-pré - Make the crouslades using duchess Cronstades French potatoes. Fill with a a mixture mixture of equal parts diced French butter. beans, peas and asparagus tips blended with butter. Carrots croustades.Fillwith Croustades croustades. FiJI with Carrois Cronstades Vichy - Make àd la la Vichy (see CARROTS). all the for croustades from al! the special recipes recipes given for Apart from given for according ta to the recipes be made according also he recipes given they can they can also barquettes and similar dishes. barEtettes garnished. cRoOrEs cARMEs -- Cut slices of stale Cro0tes, gamished. Croates, CROÛTES GARNIES sandwicb ioto rounds 5 cm. (2 inches) inches) in diameter and sandwich loaf into biscuit-cutter. 2i cm. cm. (l inch) thick, using a biscuit-cutter. of biscuit-cutter of smaller diameter, mark the top of With a biscuit-cutter without cutting cutting right through. the croûtes through. crottes firmly but without hollow out. and bollow until golden brown. Drain and Fry in in butter uotÎl to the seJected selected recipe. Garnish according ta butter, frying the the croûtes cro0tes in of frying Alternatively, instead Ahernatively, instead of in butter, brown in the oven. spread them with butter and brown Garnish with aa pur6e of breast Cro0tes Ili l'ambassadrice Croates l'ambassadrice -- Garnisb SAUCE). in Velouté Velouti sauce (*e SA of chicken (or other poultry) in U CE). small bouquet of mirepoix of of Put aa large slice of truffie and aa smaU each croûte. cro0te. vegetables on each slices of aa Atx ANCHOlS ANcHoIs -- Cut sUces cro0tes. CROÛTES cno0rns AUX Anhovy croiltes. Aochory in Fry them them in in round round or or rectangular pieces. Fry sandwich loaf in cut ioto into thin strips. fillets and eut sizding butter. Desalt anchovy flllets the croûtes. cro0tes. Put these strips on the seasoned frid inin butter butter and and seasoned Sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried Sprinkle ove,n for aa few moments. with cayenne. Put in aa very hot oven paper doyley doyley and and garnish or on on aa paper napkin or Arrange on on aa napkio with fresh parsley. LA MOELU,brcrrs - Garnish cno0rss ÀA LA bonemarrow. CROÛTES Cro0tes with boue-marrow. Crolltes poached. Sprinkle with cut into dice and poached. bone-marrow eut with bone-marrow concentrated and and thickened shallot. Pour Pour concentrated little choppe{! chopped shallot. aa little in the the oven. oven. Before and brown brown in on the the croûtes cro0tes and stock on veal stock veal put 22 or each croûte. cro0te. on each slices of of bone-marrow bone-marrow on or 33 slices serving put parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped Sprinkle with hardGarnish with with aa salpicon of hardBrillat-SavarinCro0tes Brillat-Savarin - Garnish Bichamel and truffies blended blendd with with Béchamel eggs, mushrooms and boiled eggs, (se SAUCE). of anchovy criss-cross pattem of Make aa criss-cross sauce (see SAUCE). Make sauce with fried breadcrumbs and Sprinkle with fillets on on each each croûte. crorite. Sprinkle tillets brown. brown. and salpicon of of lobster and Garnish with with aa salpicon cardinal -- Garnish CrolÎtes Cro0tes cardinal finished Bdchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) fini with Béchamel trufres blended blended with truffles shed (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Lobster bUller butter (see with with Lobsrer put aa ready, put and brown. brown. When ready, with breadcrumbs and Sprinkle Sprinkle with crorite. lobster and and 22 slivers of tmffles truffies on on eacn each croûte. of lobster slivers of slice slice of AU FROMAGE FRoMAcE ~ Garnish Garnish with with aa cno0res AU cro0tes. CROÛTES Ci1~ Cheese croiltes. paprika and grated and grated Season with with paprika cheese. Season salpicon of of Gruyère Gruydre cheese. salpicon

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HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE pos6Es POSÉES

portions of 1I tablespoon. Roll these in flour Divide into portions Bour and shape to look like eggs. eggs. Roll them in egg and breadcrumbs twice. Fry in hot, deep fat, drain drain and dry them. a small round opening in the top and through the Make a opening hollow out the'egg' the 'egg' completely, without breaking breaking Arrange them on aa mixture. Arrange the crust. Fill with the selected mixture. potatoes and straw potatoes napkin-covered dish in aa nest nest of napkin-covered dish or or in of straw garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Eggs mignons mignons d'Aigrefeuille. MIGNONS D'AIcRED' AIG REEggs oeuFs MIGNoNS d'Aigrefcrille. OEUFS FEUILLE -- Fill with a a puree purée of of poultry poultry finished with Crayfish FEUTLLE BUTTER, Compound butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Eggs mignons à I'andalouse. l'andalouse. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNONS À t'lNpltL'ANDALMIGNoNs A Bggs migons OUSE purée of of foie foie gras to which grated orange orange ousu -- Fill with aa pur6e peel has been been added. added. MIGNoNS BEAUHARBEAUHAREggs mignons mignons Beauharnais. Beauharnais. OEUFS oEUFs MIGNONS Eggs NAIS - Fill with aa pur6e purée of poultry finished with Tarragon NArs butters). butter t er s). but t er (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound C o mpound but mignons à la cévenole. OEUFS MIGNONS À t-A LA CÉVENMIGNoNs A cEveNEggs mignons c6venole. onurs OLE - Fill FiU with Chestnut purée (see (see CHESTNUTS), mixed otu Chestnut purie with a puree purée of of onions. MIGNoNs A Eggs mignons mignons à À LA CLAMARToEItFs MIGNONS cLAMART Eggs i la Clamart. Clamart. OEUFS with cream. cream. Fill with a puree purée offresh of fresh peas with Fill Curried OEUFS MIGNoNS MIGNONS A À L'tNptewxe L'INDIENNE -- Fill Clrrrid eggs egp mignons. oEtJFs (se with aa salpicon salpicon of poultry blended with with Curry sauce (see SAUCE). sAUCE). mignons A àla nivernaise. OEUFS MIGNONS A À I"l LA NwrnNIVERla nivernaise. oEUFs MIcNoNs Eggs mignons NAIsE NAISE -- Fill with aafondue fondue (q.v.) of of diced carrots and onions blended with veal stock. mignons à la normande. normande. OEUFS À Ll1, LA NonNORMIGNoNS A Eggs mignons ouurs MIGNONS MANDE -- Fill with a a ragoût Normande sauce sauce MANDE ragofit of oysters with Normande (see SAUCE). mignons à la royale. oEUFs OEUFS MIGNoNs MIGNONS A A re LA ROYALE novll.r"e Eggs mignom with aa salpicon of French French beans beans and Fill with and asparagus asparagus tips, blended with butter. In addition to these fillings, fillings, all ail those given given for barquettes, barquettes, patties, croustades, etc., can be used for for eggs mignons. (croquettes) - The French French call very small Fondants (croquettes) small croquettes fondants. They are made of vegetable quettes vegetable puree purée or of a cream preparation preparation with cheese. Vegetable Vegetable puriefondants. purée fondants. Prepare Prepare the pur6e purée of of the selected The sauce an appropriate sauce to sauce vegetables and and add add an to it. The should be very thick. The proportion proportion of sauce to vegetable vegetable puree purée should be one to three. three. Divide small portions Divide the the puree purée into into smaIJ portions of of about about 50 50 g. (2 oz.). Roll in flour Bour and coat with egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as fior like eggs or pears. for croquettes. Shape to look like Fry just just before serving. Drain, and arrange on a napkin. napkin. Garnish with fried parsley. Garnish These These croquettes can can be be made from from any any one one vegetable vegetable puree purée or a a combination of pur6es. purées. The basic pur6e purée must, however, always of the whole preparation. preparation. always weigh two-thirds of Cream fondants fondants with with cheese. cheese. Prepare a a very very thick thick unsweetened French French pastry pastry cream (see CREAMS). Add grated cheese. cheese. Spread on a Spread a slab to a thickness of about 1t cm. (l 0 inch). Leave to cool. Cut Cut into shapes. shapes. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs Leave and finish as for vegetable vegetable croquettes. croquettes. and Argenteuil fondanb. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL - Asparagus Argentadl puree purée with Bicharnel Béchamel sutce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cheese fondants. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE FRoMAGES FROMAGES - A A creamv creamy Cheese mixture made made of of Brie, Camembert, Camembert, Cantal, Cheshirg CheslÙre, cheese mixture Gruyère or Dutch cheese. cheese. Gruyire Fondants Crecy Crécy -- Pur6e Purée of carrots with Béchamel sauce sauce Fondants with Bichamel (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fondants with foie gras Taillevent Taillevent. FoNDANTs FONDANTS DE FolE FOIE GRAs GRAS Fondants TAILLEvENT TAILLEVENT -- Puree Purée of off oie gras gras and puree purée of of the white white meat foie of poultry poultry mixed wfth with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). F'ondants Fondants with with foie foie gras gras and and trufles. truffles. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE DE ForE FOIE

Make up the mixture mixture given in the chosen croquette croquette -- Make recipe. recipe. Spread a of this Spread a layer layer of this mixture on a a distr" dish, leave leave to to cool completely, (2 to g. (2 completely, and and divide into portions of 50 to 75 50 to 75 g. 3 oz.). Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and and shape into the form of cutlets cutlets (chops). (chops). Deep-fry Deep-fry in clarified c1arified butter butter or or sauté butter, saute in butter, shape depending on recipe. Arrange Arrange in the sha pe of aa crown. Add appropriate appropria te garnish. Put a piece of of raw macaroni, macaroni, decorated decorated with a a tiny paper frill, on each cutlet. cutlet. Serve with an approappropriate priate sauce. sauce. These These cutlets, when when made made very very smaU, be usod used as as a small, can be garnish gamish for large dishes. All AlI the directions directions given for making making croquettes also apply apply to these cutlets, which differ from from croquettes only in their shape. They can also be made from pur6e purée of of poultry, game, fish, etc., dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, and sauteed sautéed in butter. butter. Cutlets which have pur6es have a purées as as aa basic ingredient ingredient can have filling compound salpicon salpicon blended with with very filling of plain or compoufr thick sauce. sauce. Dartob Dartois -- Similar to Allurnettes Allumettes (see above). above). Their difference lies in the fact inaa dartois fa ct that the garnish in dartois is enclosed enclosed in two pieces pie ces of puff pastry, pastry, which are not cut into rectangles rectangles until after after the cooking cooking is finished. fini shed . Roll the puff pastry pastry out as as for allumettes, cut into bands bands and and put put on on a moistened moistened baking baking tray. Spread middle of of the Spread the middle band band with the the chosen chosen flling, filling, which must be cold, col d, leaving leaving 1 1 on. cm. @inch) (! inch) clear c1ear on on each side. side. Put on each garnished garni shed band another another band ofpastry of pastry the same same length and width wid th as the bottom bottom one, but little thicker. thicker. but a little Moisten the border of the lower lower band with water and press press the upper upper band on it. Make Make a few light cuts cuts along the edges. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and score score the the surface lightly. Mark Mark into divisions divisions to make subsequent subsequent cutting easier. Bake in aa hot oven oyen for 20 to 25 minutes. Cut into rectanglc rectangles about about 2l 2! cm. cm. (l (1 inch) long, and arrange arrange on a napkin. All All fillings given given for alfunettes allumettes can be be used used for dartois. They can also also be be garnished with salpicons (q.v.) of meat, meat, with salpicons poultry, poultry, fish, etc., blended with white white or brown stock. Anchovy dartois (Sausse[s). (Sausselis). DARTors DARTOIS Arx AUX ANcHors ANCHOIS - Fill with Anchovy Anchovyforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Decorate Decorate with anchovy fillets, cover coyer with aalayer layer of of puffpastry puff pastry and bake in oyen. the oven. Dartois Dartois ià la la florentine Oorentine -- Fill with spinach spinach cooked in butter, blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which grated cheese cheese has has been added. added. Dartois Dartois Grimod Grimod de la Repilre Reynière -- Fill Fil! with fine Pike Pike forcemeat (s@ (see FORCEMEAT) with Crayfish butter butter (see (see BUTBUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Decorate with crayfish tails and sliced trufres. truffies. Dartois Laguipibre Laguipière -- Fill FiJI with a salpicon (q.v.) of calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and trufles truffies to to which is added a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables, vegetables, blended with thick Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Ilcullus Lucullus - Fill with a salpicon of of foie gras gras and and trufles truffies blended blended with with concentrated Demi-glace sauce sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Dartois Dartois Ià la reine reine -- Fill with a salpicon salpicon of of poultry, truffies truffies with Velouti and mushrooms mushrooms blendod blended with Velouté sauce sauce (w (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sardinedrrtois. DARTors AUXsARDTNES- Made like Anchovy Sardinedartois.DARTOISAUXSARDINES-Madelike dnrtois, dartois, using using well-trimmed well-trimmed fillets fillets of of sardines sardines in oil instead. Tunry Tunny (tum (tuna fish) dartois dartois. DARrors DARTOIS AU AU rHoN THON - Made like Anchovy Anchovy dartois, using using finely finely cut-up cut-up slices slices of of tunny tunny in oil. mignons. oEuFs OEUFS MIGNoNSMIGNONS - Name given to very small Eggs mignons. egg-shaped egg-shaped cases made made of of Duchess Duchess potato potato (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). They are dipped dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, deep-fried, holhollowed lowed out out and filld filled in various various ways. ways. Make Make a duchess potato potato mixture mixture and leave until quite cold. cold.

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HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE FRITors DE fritots. FRITOTS DE RIS RIS D'AGNEAU Sweetbread fritots. Braise Sweetbread D'AGNEAU -- Braise lambs' sweetbreads and and marina marinate. Finish as as for for Bonelambs' sweetbreads te. Finish marrow fritots. marrow fritots.

cRAs AUX Aux rRuFFEs of foie and puree GRAS TRUFFES -- Pur6e Purée of foie gras and purée of truffies with a very very concentrated Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). DE vIANDES Meat Meat fondants. fondants. FoNDANTS FONDANTS DE VIANDES - Prepare in in the same way as as Fondants d à Ia la reine (see below) using different kinds of Blend these with aa sauce sauce of meat meat pur6es. purées. Blend purées with kinds these purees appropria meal. appropriatete to the meat. Fondants ià lr la Nantra Nantua -- Puree Purée of sole with Bichamel Béchamel sauce Fondants BUTTER, Compound Compound (see SAUCE) and Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, butters). roNo,c,Nrrs Fondants with poultry liver Hver or à i lala rouennaise. FONDANTS Fondants with Ll ROUENNAISE nouer.rNArs -- Purêe Pur6e of poultry DE ForEs FOIES DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE A À LA DE UCE). liver with Rouennaise sauce (see SA SAUCE). Ia reine reine to which which diced diced Fondants àI la - Purée poultry, to Fondrnts Pur6e of poultry, have been added, blended mushrooms and truffies have been added, blended with mushrooms and truffies (se SAUCE). Allemande saice (see Allemande sauce Fondants Ives' sweetbreads Fondants Vladimir -- Purée Pur6e of ca calves' sweetbreads mixed (see blended with sauce (see with pur6e purée of truffies, truffies, blended with Allemande sauce SAUCE). sAUCE). la Yorkaise -- Purée Puree of ham ham with with Bichamel Fondants Béchamel Fondants ài la sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fritots -- A kind kind of fritter, the commonest ingredients of (variety meats), meats), poultry, left-overs offish of fish and which are offal (variety shellfish. shellfish. FRrrors DE DE BoEr.JF Beef BOEUF -- Cut beef into fritots. FRITOTS Cut boiled boiled beef Beef fritots. (l| inches). Finish pieces of Finish as for Bone-marrow square pieces of 4 cm. (11 as for fritots (see below). fritots Bone-marrow fritots. FRITOTS D'AMOURETTES - Cook fritots. FRrrors D'AMouRETrns Cook the (q.v.). Divide Divide into bone-marrow in in aa white white court-bouillon (g.v.). bone-marrow pieces, dip them pieces 5 cm. (2 inches) long. long. Marinate the pieces, garnish with Arrange on a napkin napkin and gamish in batter and deep-fry. Arrange fried parsley. Serve Serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). FRITors DE CERVELLE Fritots sheeps' brains brains-- FRITOTS cERvELLE Fdtots of of caJves' calves' and sheeps' D'AGNEAU, VEAU - Cut the brains brains into thick slices and cook ou vneuD'AcNEAU, DE in aa court-bouillon. Marinate and and finish as as for Bone-marrow frUots. fritots. FRITors DE oe CRÊTES Fritots of cocks' combs. FRlTOTS cx.Erns DE COQ coe -- Cook the in aa white white court-bouillon. court-bouillon Marinate and the cocks' combs in Bone-marrow fritots. frUots. finish as as for Bone-marrow polssoNs DE rrurors DE DE POISSONS DE DESSERTE -Fritots of cooked fish. fish. FRITOTS pieces. Marinate them, dip in Divide the pieces of fish fish into into pieces. fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. batter and finish as as for Bone-marrow pIEDs DE DE PIEDS Fritots sheep's foot. foot. FRITOTS rnlrors DE of calf's calfs or or sheep's Fritots of MOUTON, MouroN, DE VEAU -- Bone Bone the calf's (or shecp's) sheep's) foot. foot. Cook (see COURT-BOUILLON) and in in Court-bouillon I1 (see and marifritots. nate. Finish as for Bone-marrow asfor Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots FRITOTS DE head. rnrrors or TÊTE DE VEAU vEAU -- Cook the Fritots of of calf's head. rErs DE calf's head in tn Court-bouillon Court-bouillon 1I (see COURT-BOUILLON). Marinate and finish as Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. as for Bone-marrow Frogs' legs fritots. FRITors DE DE GRENOUILLES Trim the Frogs' legs fritots. FRITOTS GRENoUILLES -- Trim (q.v.) and put them frogs' and frogs' legs, legs, put thern in in an an uncooked marinade (q.v.) leave for for for 30 minutes. Dip in in frying batter and finish fnish as as for Bone-marrow fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots TNTTOTS DE DE VIANDES DE DE DESSERTE -_ FTitOtS of Of cold COId Meat. MEAI. FRITOTS Boiled or braised braised left-overs left'overs of lamb, mutton or veal veal can can be used. Marinate Marinat€ and finish as for for Beeffritots. Beef fritots. Fritots of caJf's FRITors DE DE FRAISE FRAI$ DE DE VEAU vEAU -calf's mesentery. FRITOTS Cook like Bonemarinate the the mesentery mesentery and and finish finish like and marinate Cook and marrow fritots. marrow fritots. Mussel fritots. FRITOTS FRITors DE DE MOULES MouLEs -- Prepare Prepare in the same fritots (see below). way as as Oyster Oyster fritors Oyster FRITors D'HUîTRES o'ttulTnns -- Poach Oyster fritots. fritots. FRITOTS Poach the the oysters, drain, dry, marinate, and as for for and dip in frying batter. Finish as Bone-marrow fritots. Bone-marrow fritots. Fritots FRITors DE DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE DE DE DESSERTE -Fritob of cold coH poultry. FRITOTS poached or braised poultry are best. Left-overs of poached braised poultry besl. Remove pieces. Marinate, aU bones. Cut into very small regular pieces. all the bones. and and dip dip into into frying frying batter. Finish as batter. Finish as for for Bone-marrow Bone-marrow fritots. fritots.

Vegetable fritots. FRITors Vegetable FRITOTS oE DE r,Ecurrms LÉGUMES -- Cut into quarters or into long long pieces, vegetables such such as as cardoons or salsify or (which should be cooked in aa white court-bouillon), court-bouillon), or arti(which (which should chokes and and asparagus asparagus (which should only only be chokes be blanched). finished in the and dip in frying ba.tter. are finished Marinate, and balter. They are Bone-marrow fritots. fritots. same way as Bone-marrow Fritters. BEIcNETS Fritters served served as as hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or Fritters. BEIGNETS - Fritters small entrées entries can can be small be made from aa variety of ingredients -and cooked vegetables -- dipped in batter meat, poultry, fish and and fried. and Different kinds of batter can be used. Fritters with frying batter. Whatever ingredients you use, and then cut into slices, slices, square square they should be cooked first and pieces or any other shape desired. ingredient to be left to soak Some recipes require the basic ingredient Sorne juice or vinegar, chopped lemon juice or vinegar, minutes in in oil, oil, lemon for for 30 30 minutes parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. pieces, one by one, into aa light When ready to fry, dip the pieces, batter, and deep-fry them in very hot fat until they are a good fine dry salt and Dry them on season with with fine colour. Dry on aa cloth, season arrange arrange them in a pile on a dish. pur6es or mince, purées For fritters fritters incorporating forcemeat, forcemeat, mince, For (q.v.), prepare the ingredients as directed in various salpicons (q. v.), prepare quite cold. into small Divide into recipe and and leave leave until cold. Divide the until quite the recipe portions, shape into round cakes, flat round into balls, corks, rissoles, fiat flour. Dip in batter and finish as described above. etc. Roll in fIour.

(,Scarzali) Fritters (Scarnali) Fritters

(souffid fritters). Prepare Chou Fritters paste (soufflé fritters). Prepare with chou paste Fritters wUh are indi(see DOUGH). Add Add whatever ingredients are paste 1I (see paste cated in the the recipe chosen. pieces as small as as a as smaU paste with aa spoon Divide the spoon into into pieces the paste on the the inhazelnut walnut, depending on as aa walnut, hazelnut or or as as large large as not boiling, oil. gredients. gredients. Drop into hot, hot, but but not Drop one one by by one one into well shaped, dry Cook until the the fritters are well high fIame flame until Cook on aa high paper or golden brown. linen towellmg, towelhng, and Drain on on paper or linen brown. Drain and golden and serve. sprinkie sprinkle with fine fine dry salt and Roll anchovy Anchovy fritters ssrcNsrs D'ANCHOIS D'ANcHoIs - Roll fritters I.I. BEIGNETS fillets into rings and put them on thin round slices of bread, (1| inches) in diameter. about 4 cm. cm. (lt dip in two by by two, two, dip Sandwich rounds together, together, two Sandwich these these rounds serving. just before serving. batter, and fry fryjust layer of fish The fish be coated with aa layer The rounds rounds of bread can can be coated with

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HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) or or spread spread with Anchovy Anchovy forcemeat butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Alternatively, spread the rounds of bread with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of hard-boiled eggs and and fillets fiUets of anchovies blended blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Finish in the usual way. In In all ail the recipes recipes bread can be replaced by small savoury

(see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). Dip Dip the mussels sauce (see mussels in batter and finish in the

usual manner. manner. pArEs -- Prepare Macaroni Pasta frittens. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS pe DE PÂTES Macaroni àd I'italienne cut into into dice, shell-shaped shell-shaped l'italienne (see (see MACARONI) MACARONI) cut pasta, or vermicelli. cool. Divide Divide Ïnto into pasta, noodles or vermicelli. Leave Leave to to cool.

portions of pigeons'eggs. portions the size of pigeons' Dip in batter and finish in the usual manner. Rice fritters. BErcNErs RJz -- Cook Cook the rice and mix with BEIGNETS DE RIZ Parmesan into portions the sÎze size of pigeons' Parmesan cheese. Divide into eggs. Dip Dip in batter and finish in the usual manner. Polenta and semolina same way semolina fritten fritters are prepared prepared in the same as rice fritters. Soft Soft roe fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE LArrANces LAITANCES - Poach the soft roes (see COURT-BOUILLOI$. roes in in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XV XV (see COURT-BOUILLON). Drain and and put them them in aa marinade marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice or vinegar, and chopped choppOO parsley. Dry, dip in batter and fry in the usual way. Soufl6 SOUFFLÉS -- Prepare Chou paste paste Soufflé fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS sourrrfs (see with a (see DOUGH) without sugar. Divide Divide with a spoon spoon into pieces the size of of a hazelnut. Drop one by one into hot, but not boiling, oil. Cook over over a high flame until the fritters are well colour. weil shaped, dry, and golden in colour. Drain Drain on paper or linen towelling and serve. Soum6 sotrrrrfs lux Soufflé fritters fntters with with anchovy anchovy I. I. ssrcNers BEIGNETS SOUFFLÉS ANcHoIs 250 g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 1 cup) Chou paste (see Prepare 250 DOUGH) and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) salpicon of desalted desaltOO anchovies. an(~hO'Vles. Proceed Proceed as for Soufii Souffléfritters. frit ter s. Soufr6 sourrlfs ,c,ux Soufflé fritters fntters with with anchory anchovy II. n. sptcNETS BEIGNETS SOUFFLÉS AUX ANcHoIs ANCHOISMake the fritters as directed for Souffid frilters. - Make As soon as they are cooked and drained, stuff them with Anchovy Anchovy butter butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Contp6und Compound butters). butters). Soufflé fritters li la la hongroise" hongroise. BEIGNETS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS A À LA Sonfr6 HoNcRotsE HONGROISE - Make 250 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) batter batter as for Souffid fritters. Add 3 tablespoons (scant *t cup) chopped onions fritters. cooked cookOO in butter and season season with f1- teaspoon of of paprika. paprika. Soufflé fritters à la parmeane parmesane I, or cheese soufl6 soufflé fritters. mtters. Souffi6 BEIGNETS souprrns SOUFFLÉS A À r,c, LA pARrunsANE. PARMESANE, BEIGNETS BEIGNETS AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE BEIcNETS 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) Chou Chou paste paste (see DOUGH), add Prepare 250 oz., It cup) grated gratOO Parmesan cheese and season season with a 50 g. (2 oz., little grated nutmeg. little Soufflé fritters fritters à la parmesane II. n. ssrcNsrs BEIGNETS sourrufs SOUFFLÉS A Àm LA Souff6 PARMESANE - Make Make the the fritters fritters as as indicatod indicated for for Souffii Soufflé IARMESANE fritters. As As soon as they are cooked and drained, drained, stuff stuff them fritters. Cream sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which Parmesan cheese cheese with Crearn has been been added. added. has Soufflé fritters fritters à la la toscane. toscane. BETcNETs BEIGNETS soui'rrfs SOuFFLÉS A À r,c, LA Soum6 TOSCANE - Proceed ProceOO as as indicated indicatOO for for Soufii Soufflé fritters d à la roscANE parmesane, adding chopped lean lean ham and and trufres to to the

pancakes. pancakes.

Amhovy fritters fritters II. n. ssrcr.rtrs BEIGNETS D'^q.NcHors D'ANCHOIS - Soak Soak unleavened in cold cold water and and cut into into small leavenOO bread (matzos) in circles. Put a little !ittle salpicon made of anchovies and and hardboiled eggs blended blended with Bbchamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) on each each circle. Seal Seal the the fritters fritters like like turnovers, turnovers, dip dip in in frying batter batter and finish finish as indicated indicated above. above. Artichoke fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS D'ARTIcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS - Trim very tender artichokes artichokes and divide into quarters. Lay them on a dish and dress with with a trickle of oil and a squeeze of lemon juice. juice. Season Season with with salt and pepper. Leave Leave to marinate marinate for 30 minutes. minutes. Dip Dip the the artichokes artichokes in batter and fry them. them. If If they are a little Httle hard, hard, blanch blanch them lightly lightly before putting them into the marinade. marinade. Beef Beef fritters fritters Ià la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. seIcNsrs BEIGNETS DE DE sosuF BOEUF A À rA, LA LvoNNAISE LYONNAISE -- Make Beef Beef hash d à Ia la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see (see HASH), HASH), using using beefleft-overs. beef left-overs. Divide Divide the the mince mince into pieces pieces the size of of a walnut. Dip in batter batter and and fry. Bemob Bernois fritters. BEIGNETs BEIGNETS BERNoIs BERNOIS - Cut Gruydre Gruyère cheese cheese into rounds 2f cm. (1 inch) inch) in in diameter. diameter. Make Make a a thick cm. (l Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and add minced minced ham. ham. Coat Coat the the rounds rounds of of cheese cheese with with this tbis sauce and sandwich together together in pairs. Finish the the fritter fritter in in the the usual usual manner. pairs. Finish FiS Fish fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE porssoNs POISSONS - Use left-over left-over braised braised or or poached poached fish. fish. Cut into into slices or o-r pieces and marinate marinate for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces one one by by one one in in batter bat ter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Fritters Fritters ià la la florentine. florentine. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS A À rA LA rronsNrlNs FLORENTINE -- PrePrepare pare 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz.,l oz., l cup) cup) spinach spinach pur6e, purée, making making itit as as dry as possible. possible. Add Add 22 dl. dl. $ (~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) thrck thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and2 and 2 to to 33 tablespoons tablespoons grated cheese. cheese. Leave Leave to to cool, cool, divide divide into into balls balls the the size size of of aa pigeons'eggs, pigeons' eggs, roll roll in in flour, fiour, dip dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Herring fritters fritters I. 1. sntcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENGS HARENGS -- Use Use marinated marinated herrings. herrings. Drain, and and dry on on aa cloth. c1oth. Coat Coat with with aa thin thin layer layer of Fishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (s@ (see FORCEMEATS) and and roll roll them them up. up. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Herrinp Herrmgs fritters fritters II. fi. srrcNErs BEIGNETS DE DE HARENcS HARENGS -- Make Make aa salpicon con of of mannated marina tOO herrings herrings and and Fishforcemeat Fish forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) MEATS) and and spread spread itit on on pancakes pancakes (crApes) (crêpes) made made without without salt. Roll Roll up up the the pancakes, pancakes, cut eut them them in in uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, dip dip in in salt. batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Luculhrs Lucullus fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS LUcULLUS LUCULLUS -- Cut Cut truffies truffies into into thick thick slices, slices, coat coat with with a a purbe purée of of foie foie gras gras and and sandwich sandwich together in in pairs. pairs. Dip Dip in in batter batter and and finish finish in in the the usual usual manmantogether ner. ner. In France France these these fritters fritters are are also also known known as as Fritters Frit/ers dà la la In

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Sweetbread fritters. fritters. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS DE DE RIs RIS D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, DE DE vEAU VEAUSweetbread poach the the sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Cut into into square pieces. pieces. Braise or poach Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon juice, juice, chopped choppOO Marinate parsley, parsley, salt and and pepper. pepper. the pieces pieces in in batter, batter, fry, fry, and and finish finish in in the the usual usual Dip the manner. manner. Truffle fritters. fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES - Cover Coyer large slices slices Trufle of truffie truffle with with poultry puree and and sandwich together together in pairs. of in batter batter and and finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Dip in V",O'pi'~hllp fritters. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS op DE r,6cr-nvrrs LÉGUMES - Vegetables Vegetables for for Vegetable must be be cooked cooked or parboiled, parboiled, according according to to their fritters must fritters nature. Cut Cut them them into into pieces, slices slices or or strips. nature. Marinate for 30 minutes in oil, lemon lemon juice juice or vinegar, Marinate parsley, salt and pepper. pepper. chopped parsley, one by by one one in in batter batter and and fry fry in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Dip one best vegetables vegetables for for fritters fritters are are artichokes, artichokes, white white The best asparagus tips, tips, Brussels Brussels sprouts, sprouts, cauliflower, cauliflower, salsify, salsify, totoasparagus matoes. matoes.

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pirigourdine. fritters. BEIcNETS BEIGNETS DE DE vIANDES VIANDES -- Use Use braised braised or or Meat fritters. poached poached left-overs left-overs of of meat. meat. Cut Cut into into squares, squares, slices slÏces or any any other shape. shape. other Marinate Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in oil, oil, lemon lem on juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces one one by one one in in batter. batter. Finish in in the the usual manner. manner. Finish Mussel fritters fritters ià la la duxelles. duxeUes. BEIGNETS BEIGNETS os DE Mourns MOULES A À rA LA Mussel DUXELLES - Cook Cook large mussels mussels in in white white wine, wine, take take them them out out DtxELLEsoftheir their shells, shells, dry dry well, cover coyer with with I1 teaspoon teaspoon thick thick Duxelles Duxelles of

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Vegetable BEIGNETS Vegefable marrow (U.S. (US. squash) squash) ffower Oowec fritters. BEJGNETS one into a - Dip the flowers one by one light batter balter and then Ihen fry. K>O~·t~?'iAn fnrters BEIGNETS vfc6rnnruus VÉGÉTARIENS Vegetarian fritters à la printanibre. sslcwers (9 oz.) A oz.) vegetable macddoine À l,l LA pruNt,lNdns. PRINTANiÈRE. Make 250 g. g. (9 vegetable macédoine (q.v.) and blend with 2 dl. (t (+ pint, scant cup) thick Bichamel pin t, seant Bechamel (see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). Leave sauce (see Leave to to cool. cooJ. Finish Finish in in the the usual manner. Vegetarian fritten A fnrters Ià la la romaine. BEIcNETs BEIGNETS vfc6unrnNs VÉGÊTARIENS À LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE -- Blanch sorne Ît in some spinach, chop and simmer it (9 oz., butter. Mix 250 g. (9 spinach with 2 dl. oz.,lf lt cups) spinach (1 pint, dl. (* scant cup) thick Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE) and scant Béchamel saute and 3 tablegrated cheese. Le,ave spoons (scant I cup) c,rp) graled Leave to ta cool. Finish in the usual manner. generally made K romeskies. CROMESQU!S Kroneskies. cRoMEseus-- Kromeskies are generally of the same ingredients as as Croquelles Croquettes (see (sec above), and can above), and also be and all kinds of also be made made of mince, pur6e, purée, forcemeat and ail kinds left-overs of meat,t, fish or vegetables. vegetables. of mea À la la frangal'se. française. Prepare ingredients as as croquettes Prepare the the ingredients Let this get quite cold. Divide according to the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Lei to 75 g. (l| into portions of about 60 ta ot to ta 2 oz.). Roll in flour and rccumglCs. and shape into corks or rectangles. Dip in batter and and drop drop them one one by by one into aa pan pan of one into Fry until golden brown, drain, dry in a c1oth, boiling fat. Fry cloth, and salt. Garnish Garnish with fried parsley sprinkle with salt. parsley and serve with with an appropriate sauce. A la russe. russe. Prepare according according to the recipe recipe chosen to the chosen and and divide into pieces pieces as directed above. thin piece of salt pork and Wrap each portion in aa very thin shape like a cork. Dip in batter batler and finish as indicated above. preceding recipe, directed in the preceding polonaise. Proceed as directed A la polonaise. (cr€pes) inslead instead of using large, thin, unsweetened unsweetend pancakes (crêpes) caul. cauJ. À I'ancienne. Wrap each Duchess of Duchess A each portion in aa thin layer of potatoes and then an unsweetened unsweetened polaloes (see (see POTATOES), and then in in an pancake (crêpe). pancake preceding recipes. @rApe). Finish as directed in the preceding (see with TomalO Tomato salice sauce (sec Kromeskies are are generally served with Kromeskies SAUCE) or any other suitable sauce. As kromeskies are very much like croquettes we give only are made, made, as as far far as as the basic few special recipes. They arc aa few like croquettes, for for way Iike ingredienls are concerned, ingredients concerned, in every way whîch which the recipes are given above. A LA BONNE soNNE femme. CROMESQUIS cRolrrEselJrs À la bonne femme. Kromeskies à. la (see HASH) coated in in la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see FEMME - Beef Bee! /tash HASH) coated FEMME hash àd la batter. balter. A LA I,l, CARMÊLlTE cRoluEseuls À clnrrdure Kromeskies à la cllnnélite. carm6lite. CROMESQUIS garlic, ail, pounded with cream to to which with garlic, oil, and and cream Salt Salt cod cod pounded pancakes and and have been added. Wrap in in pancakes been added. chopped truffles trufles have coat with batter. sauce (see SA SAUCE). Serve UCE). a White wine sm/ce Serve with a Ll fLORENTlNEFLoRENTINE A LA KromeskJes Kromeskies ài la florentine. CROMESQUIS cRoMEseuls À grated which grated Truck SAUCE) ta which Bichamel sauce sauce SAUCE) to Thick Béchamel in butter have have been and spinach cooked in Parmesan cheese Parmesan cheese and added. Wrap in pancakes and coat with butter. preparations which are are When the kromeskies are made of preparations shape ioto into corks corls or into portions and and to to shape or difficult divide into to divide difficult to (as, for Kromeskies àd la la for instance, instance, in in the the case case of Kromeskies rectangles, rectangles, (as, urith béchamel then add add bichamel sauce, then florentine), coat the pancakes with florentine), pancakes, cut them thern into pieces and dip the spinach. spinach. Roll the paocakes, Finish as directed above. in frying balter. batter. Finish LA MTREPOIX MIREPoD( A LA lUomeskJes la mirepoix. CROMESQUlS cnorrmsQuls À Kromeskies à la with VeloUlé Velouti sauce or Mirepoix (q.v.) of vegetables, blended blended with used meatless Bech/lmel tless mirepoix is used Bichamel sauce (see SAUCE). If aa mea if minced raw ham il it shou!d blended with bichamel sauce; ifminced should he be blended velouti sauce should he used for for sauce should be used is to the mirepoix, mirepoix, velouté is added addd ta pancakes and and coat coat wjth case wrap wrap in in pancakes with In either either case blending. ln separately. Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) separately. balter. batter. Serve Tomaro sAINT-HUBERT Kromeskies cnolrrsseuls SArNT-HUBERT Kromeskies Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert. CROMESQU1S

Demi-glace sauce (see Salpicon Salpicon (q.v.) of game blended with Demi-glace (sec SAUCE) SA UCE) based on concentrated game stock. Wrap in caul and coat with batter. pB r,6Kromeckies various vegetables. cRoMEseuts Kromeskies with with varions CROMESQUIS DE LÉof cooked vegetables cuMEs - Salpicon GUMES Salpicon of vegelables blended blended with Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE). Wrap in in pancakes and coat with batter. are artichoke The most artichoke The most usual usual vegetables vegetables for for this this dish dish are hearts, asparagus, carrots, salsify and celeriac. celeriac. A t.l Kromeskies A la CROMESQUIS À LA vLADIMIR VLADIMIR la Vladimir. cRoMgseus sole, truffies Salpicon Salpicon of fillet flUet of sole, truffles and crayfish tails taUs blended (se SAUCE), based on fish stock. Velouti sauce (sec with thick truck Velouté and coat coat with Wrap Wrap in in duchess duchess potatoes and and pancakes and SAUCE). batter. Serve Serve with Normande sauce (s* SAUCE). Mazagrans -- Moulded Moulded mazagrans. Butter Butler tartlet tins, and (s* out Duchess line thern them with a thin layer of rolled out Duchess potato potalO (see POTATOES). Fill the tartlets with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) or any ally other preparation indicated in the recipe. The filling should be quite cold. circle ofpotato of potato mixture cut out Cover each each tartlet tartlet with with a cirde mixture cut out with and brushed with egg. a a fluted fluted biscuit-cutter, biscuit-cutter, and egg. Brush again with egg and brown hrown in a very hot aven. oven. ready and Takethe Take the mazagrans mazagrans out of the tins tins when they are ready arrange on a plate. dee,p fireproof plates with rolledLarge mazagrans. mazagrans. Line decp ro11edpotato mixture. out duchess potato mixture. preparation. Cover with Fill with a salpicon salpicon or other cold preparation. rolledanother layer layer of the potato mixture. mixture. Decorate with roUedcut in out pieces of duchess potato out patata mixture cut in fancy shapes. Bake in aa moderate oven. oven. Serve on on the plate plate on which the mazagran has been bakcd. baked. mazagran layer of of duchess Unmoulded mazagrans. mazagrans. Roll Unmoulded Roll out out aa layer potatoes. Cut circles, using fluted biscuit-cutter biscuit-cutter Cut it it into iota circles, using aa fluted about 5 cm. (2 inches) inches) in diameter. tray. FiJI Fill with with aa Put circles on on aa buttered baking tray. Put these circles buttered baking putting aa cold preparation, salpicon or any any other other suitable cold salpicon or preparation, putting piece the sile size of of aa walnut on each. circlet of duchess potatoes. Seal the the Cover with wiili aa second CÎrclet potatoes. SeaJ with egg. Brown Brown lightly in a very hot oven. edges and brush witb garnishes, salpicons, or other All salpicons, or other preparations Al! garnishes, preparations given for patties, rissoles, tarUets, also be uscd tartlets, etc., used etc., can also patties. croustades, rissoles, mazagrmts. for mGrzaf!rGrns. and midaillons and M6daillons - The only difference between betwee,n médaillons their shape. Midaillons Croquettes (see above) is their Croquelles Médaillons are shaped preparations flat cakes. They are made of the same preparations like small fiat and Dip them in egg egg and and left until until quite cold. cold. Dip as croquettes and saut6 in clarified butter. and sauté breadcrumbs and butter. parsley. with fried fried parsley. Arrange in aa circJe. circle. Garnish wilh served with with a sauce appropriatt appropriate to Midaillons M~'tlil'llIl)1H are served ta the basic garnished with also be with vegelables vegetables ingredients. They can can also ingredienls. They be garnished vegetable pur6e. with butter blended wilh butter or with aa fairly thick vegetable ways of serving sulrnrs - There There are several ways are several Oysters. HuîTRES hot hors-d'œuvre, including Oyslers Oysters d as aa hot hors-d'euvre, încluding cooked oyslers oysters as (see OYSTERS), (see of oyslers oysters (see I'amdricaine (see OYSTERS), Attereaux l'américaine Allereau..'.: of fried on skewers, fricd Attereaux oysters on Allereaux above) fritots, fri/OlS, patties, oysters oysters, etc. in ah an horsPancakes served served as as pannequets Pannesrets PllJllllE~llets -- Pancakes pannequers il1 (see CrApe bat/er batter (see made from from unsweetened unsweetened Crêpe d'euvre are made

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cREPE). pANNEer.JETs AUX prnnequets. PANNEQUETS AUx ANCHOIS ANcHots -- Cut Cut the Anchory pllooequets. pancakes into rectangles with Pik.e Pike forcemeat =L,i;Ill~;lQ and trlrrPI'I'lp,CJI and garnish with pancakes (see (see -rr",r-T'll FORCEMEATS) with Anchovy butter (see BUTTER, Anchovy buller butters). Compound bulters). Compound pancakes Roll the 1-'0" fry them. them. PanneErets àI la brullOI~ bnrnoise -- Roll Pannequets ...."'''' ...." and fry Stuffwith a brunoise (q.v.) of vegetables cooked in butter butter and Stuffwiili blended with Bichunel sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). blended pannequeb (Cheshire Gruyère Gruy0re or or Parmesan). Parmesan). Cheese paooequets Che~ panCakes into rectangles. reCtangles. PANNEQTJETS AU AU FROMAGE FROMAGE -- Cut cUt the pancakes PANNEQUETS

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HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE In addition to the recipes given below, small canbe sma)) pdtis pâtés ean be filled filled with all ail the the ingredients given for barEtettes, barquettes, patties, patties,

Fill them them with cream eream cheese. eheese. Sprinkle with grated cheese, eheese, brown. and brown. Oorentine -- Cut Cut the the pancakes paneakes into lozenge lozeoge Paonequets ià la florentine Pannequeb Garnish with spinach spinaeh cooked eooked in butter and blended bleoded shapes. Garnish whieh grated cheese eheese Béchamel sauce (see (see SAUCE) to which with Bdchamel has been been added. added. Sprinkle SprinkJe with with more grated grated cheese, eheese, and has brown. brown. pannequets in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. pANNEeuErs PANNEQUETS plNfs PANÉS er ET Fried panneErets FRITS - Prepare the the pancakes paneakes and and stuff them them as as described deseribed FRITS Stuffed pannequets. pannequets. below under Stuffed cut thern them into into pieces, dip dip in in egg egg and Roll into into scrolls, serolls, cut Roll breadcrumbs, and fry. Pancakes prepared in this way are also known in France Pancakes under the name of of croquettes croquettes or or craquelins. craquelins. Apart from the recipes given here, pancakes pancakes can be stuffed stuffed Apart with with all ail kinds of preparations: preparations: pur6es, purées, salpicons, salpicons, creams, ereams, etc. as as given given in in recipes recipes for barquettes, patties, patties, canapis, canapés, etc. for barquetles, tartlets and other small dishes of the same kind. tartlets Pannequets ià la grecEre grecque -- Rolled pancakes paneakes garnished garnished with Pannequets a salpicon salpicon of of braised mutton, aubergines aubergines sautéed saut6ed in oil, and pimentos, (see SAUCE) pimentos, blended blended with sauce (see with Tomato Tomato sauce seasoned with paprika. paprika. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs breaderumbs and fry. fry . seasoned Pannequets are often made made from from very pancakes Pannequets are often very small small pancakes spread with forcemeat, folded in two and browned under the grill. garnished la hongroise -- Rolled pancakes garnished Pannequets à i la Rolled pancakes with aa salpicon salpicon of onions and and mushrooms cooked cookd in butter until very very soft, with paprika paprika and until soft, seasoned with and blended with (se SAUCE). Béchamel or sauce (see Bichamel or Velouté Velouti sauce panneErets A Pannequets à I'italienne l'italienne -- Rolled pancakes garnished garnished with duxelles to which lean blended with duxelles (q.v.) to lean chopped ham, ham, blended (se SAUCE), has been very thick Tomato sauce (see been added. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry. pancakes and Pannequets à ligurienne -- Make very small pancakes i la ligurienne and fold in two. two. Garnish Garnish with aa salpicon of anchovies anchovies and and hard(see FONDUE), boiled eggs fondue (see boiled eggs blended with with Tomato fondue FONDUE), seasoned wi th tarragon. with Sprinkle th breadcrumbs and brown. brown. Sprinkle wi with Paonequets pancakes into PanneEreb àI la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Cut Cut the the pancakes rectangles or into rectangles purée of lozenge shapes. into lozenge shapes. Garnish Garnish with aa pur6e ground game with Demi-glace based on Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) based on concentrated game stock. pancakes into Pannequets ài la la strasbourgeoise -- Cut the pancakes Cut the gras to rectangles. Garnish rectangles. purée of foie with aa pur6e Garnish with to which foie gras chopped truffies have been added. panneErets. PANNEQUETS Stuffed Stuffd pannequets. IANNEeLJETS FOURRÉS rounn6s -- Make Make the the pancakes large and very thin. Spread them on a table, coat with a thin layer of the seleeted selected foreemeat, forcemeat, roll roll them them up up and and cut cut each roll roll into two two or three pieces. Put these on aa baking tray and heat in the oven. put two If preferred, instead up, put instead of rolling them two together them up, and and cut cut with biscuit-cutter into into rectangles, rectangles, squares, squares, with aa biscuit-cutter lozenges or or circles. For further recipes see CREPES. see CRÊPES. pArEs AU Sm aU pâtés pflt6s au gastronome. PETITS au GASTROcAsrRorETITS PÂTÉS au gastronome. Small (i inch) thick. pastry approximately mm. (t thick. Cut into rounds Cut into approximately 5 mm. or pastry-cutter. or ovals ovals with aa pastry-cutter. Collect into and roll roll them them out out into remains of the the dough dough and Collect the the remains another first thinner than the the first another layer, which which should should be be aa little thinner layer. second layer. Cut of it. Put the second Cut the same same number ofshapes of shapes out ofiL lot lot of circles on tray. on aa moistened moistened bakiog baking tray. Slightly in of the cireles circles with water. Put Put in Slightly moisten moisten the edges of the size of of aa hazelnut. hazelnut. the centre of filling filling the the size centre of of each each aa portion of This any other other preparaThis can can he forcemeat, minced minced meat meat or or any be forcemeat, tion according chosen.. according to the recipe chosen Cover the first first layer layer of of dough. dough. circles cut cut out out of of the Cover with the the circles Press with the two two circlets circlets stick stick with the of aa spoon spoon so so that that the the back back of together. put in in aa hot hot oven oven for for 12 12 to to 15 15 with egg and put together. Brush Brush with egg and minutes. minutes.

tartlets. tartlets, etc.

pit6s suaight Small pâtés straight from the oyen oven(Larousse) SmaU (Larousse)

pETITs PAlES pArss AUX lux ANCHOIS ANcHoIs -anchovy. PETITS Small p$tds with anchovy. SmaU pâtés with (se FORCEFis h for c eme at (see FO RCEM ake smallpâtés. small p dt i s. Garnish Garnish with Fishforcemeat Make (see BUTTER, MEATS) with BUTTER, Compound Compound with Anchovy butter butter (see MEATS) salpicon (q.v.) of anchovy fillets has been butters) to which a salpicon added. pArns À pETITs PÂTÉs A L'ANDALOUSE pitds à L'ANDALoUSE -t l'andalouse. I'andalouse. PETITS SmaU Small pâtés pdtis. Garnish Make small with sa sausage meat to to which which aa small pâtés. Garnish with Make usage meat and chopped chopped onions butter, and salpicon of pimentos cooked in butter, lightly fried in butter, has been butter, has Iightly been added. pArrs ÀA LA pErlrs PÂTÉS pites àt la LA CHARCUla cbarcutière. charcutiEre. PETITS cHA,RcuSmall pâtés pdtis garnished garnished with meat to to which with sausage sausage meat TIÈRE uiinn -- Small Small pâtés parsley has chopped parsley has been added. chopped pErlrs PÂTÉS pArns À pit6s ài la A LA LA DUXELLES DLxELLES -la duxeUes. duxelles. PETITS Small Small pâtés (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) to Garnish with wrth Pork Pork forcemeat Garnish forcemeat (see equal part of dry duxelles (q.v.) has been added. which an equal pErlrs PÂTÉS pAr6s DE pB POISSONS potssoNs -- These ean pfltds. PETITS can be fish pâtés. Small 6sb with aa forcemeat forcemeat of of pike, made in in any any shape. shape. Garnish Garnish with made salpicon of of cooked cookod fish, whiting or any other other fish, fish, or or aa salpicon or any whiting (sw SAUCE) Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish thick Velouté blended with thick and truffies can can be added stock. If desired, desired, diced diced mushrooms and stock. to the salpicon. to pAr6s D. pErlrs PÂTÉS game pâtés pitds with os AU with stock. stock. PETITS cIBIER AU Small Sm aU game E GIBIER pdtis with the recipe recipe for for Small with rus -- Proceed as as indicated in the Small pâtés JUS (se below) but use game instead instead of forceforcestock (see use aa salpicon of game stock meat. meal. pArfs AU pETrrs PÂTÉS pites au gashonome. PETITS au gastronome. Small lu GASTROcAsrRoSm aU pâtés pdtis garnished garnished with aa salpicon of eocks' cocks' NoME -- Small NOME Small oval pâtés pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, truffies and and mushrooms, combs, pickled or smoked combs, Demi-glace sauce sauce Madeira-flavoured Demi-glace with strong strong Madeira-ftavoured blended blended with (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). pArfs ÀA LA pETIrs PÂTÉS p0tes àt la L-a LYONNAISELYoNNATsE la lyonnaise. PETITS SmaU Small pâtés pdtis garnished garnished with finely chopped or choppod braised braised or square pâtés Small Small square onions chopped onions have been been added added chopped to which which have boiled boilod beef beef to concentrated soft, and and blended blended with with coocentrated in butter until until soft, cooked cooked in veal stock. stock. veal pArEs DE pETIrs PÂTÉs pfltds. PETITS on VIANDES vIANDES -- Any Any shape. shape. meat pâtés. Small Small meat (se below) pdtis àd la h Saint-Hubert below) Garnish Garnish as as for for Small Small pâtés Saint-Hubert (see game by puree of kind of of meat. meat. by any any kind replacing the purée of game pErlrs PÂTÉS pArfs ÀA LA MoscovlrE pit6s ài la LA MOSCOVITEla moscovite. moscovite. PETITS SmaU Small pâtés (see DOUGH), less fine fine than than usual DOUGH), less usual Make aa Brioche Brioche dough dough (see Make (3 inches) inches) in in approximately 7! cm. (3 and cut into circles circles of of approximately and cut itit into ft cm. diameter. diameter. (see FORCEMEAT) piece of the size size P ike for cemeat (see FORCEMEAT) the Put of Pikeforcemeat Put aa piece middle of of each each circle. circle. of of aa walnut walnut in in the the middle

481 481

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Top with with a little little cooked semolina and and a slice of of raw white white fish. Season Season with salt and spices. Fold the the dough dough over towards wards the the centre centre from the sides, making small oval-shaped oval-shaped pies. pies. Press Press the the rims together together and and crimp the edges. edges. Make a small Put on a tray tray in a warm warm place place and and sm ail hole hole in in the the middle. middle. Put leave bake in leave to to rise rise for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Brush Brush with with egg egg and andhake in a hot oven oven for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Just Just before before serving serving pour pour into into the the opening opening of of each each pie pie aa little !ittle concentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which

blended with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based on concentrated centrated game stock. Small pttds pâtés with stock. eETITS PETITS pArns PÂTÉS ,lu AU rus JUS - Line small pastry moulds moulds with Lining Lining paste paste (sea (see DOUGH). Fill them with a salpicon of forcemeat, mushrooms mushrooms and truffies blended with strong strong Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cover Co ver each mould with a round of puff puff pastry. Press Press the rims together. Fut Put on each each a small small ring ring of of puff puff pastry cut out with a smaller diameter than the lid. with a fluted pastry-cutter pastry-cutter of ofa Make Make a small hole hole in the middle middle of of the lid. lido Brush with egg and bake in a hot oven for 15 to 18 minutes. Take the pdtis pâtés out of of the moulds. Pour Pour into each a few drops of thickened veal stock, piping hot. hot. pâtés with stock can be prepared in the same sa me way Small pdtis Small using of other other meat. meat. using all ail kinds kinds of Small la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. pETrrs PETITS pArrs PÂTÉS A À r,c, LA Sma]] pfltes pâtés à la srRAsBouRGEoIsE purfie of STRASBOURGEOISE - Garnished with a a purée of foie foie gras to which which chopped chopped truffies truffies have have been added. added. Gamisbed patties. Boucxr6Es BOUCHÉES cARNrEs GARNIES - Puff Puff pastry baked Gandshed blind, blind, garnished garnished with with meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (g.v.). puff pastry pastry 6 times, times, and then then to a thickness of Roll out puff mm. (* (! inch). inch). Cut Cut out out circles 6*... 6! cm. (2t (2! inches) inches) in in diameter diameter 5 mm. with a fluted pastry-cutter. Place on a a slightly moistened moistened with metal tray. tray. Brush Brush with egg, egg, mark mark the lid by pressing each metal circ1e lightly lightly with with a smaller sm aller pastry-cutter. pastry-cutter. circle Bake the the patties patties in in a hot hot oven. oven. Remove the lids !ids and and scoop scoop Bake out the the soft part part from the the interior interior of of the the patty. patty. out Very Very small, small, hollowed hollowed out and and variously filled filled brioches brioches are are also also called called patties. patties.

chopped chopped parsley parsley and and lemon lemon juice juice have have been been added. added. Small Sm a]] mutton mutton pfltds. pâtés. runrs PETITS pArfs PÂ TÉs or DE uouroN MOUTON A À r'lNcLArsE L'ANGLAISELine Line deep deep tartlet tarti et moulds moulds with Lining Lining paste pas te (s@ (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fill Fill with with small small dice dice of of mutton, mutton, half half lean lean half half fat. fat. Season Season with with salt and and pepper pepper and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped herbs. herbs. Make Make some sorne puffpastry puff pastry and and give give itit 88 turns. turns. Cover Cover thepdtis the pâtés with with little little circles circles of of pastry. pastry. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and make make a small small hole of each each pie. pie. hole in in the the middle middle of Bake Bake in in aa cool cool oven oven for for 35 35 minutes. minutes. As As you you take the the pdtis pâtés out out of of the the oven oven pour pour into into each each 22 teaspoons teaspoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Small SmaJ] poultry poultry pOtes pâtés with with stock. stock. pnrrrs PETITS pAres PÂTÉs op DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE AU As described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Small Smal/ pdtis pâtés with with stock stock AU JUsJUS - As (see (see below) below) using using aa salpicon salpicon of of poultry. poultry. Small Sma]] pitds pâtés à la la reine. reine. pErlrs PETITS pAms PÂTÉS A À LA LA REINE REINE - Small Small round round pdtis pâtés garnished garnished with with poultry poultry puree purée to to which which chopped chopped trufles, tru ffies , blended blended with thick thick Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), have have been been added. added. Snall Sma]] p0t6s pâtés à la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert. pnnrs PETITS pArrs PÂTÉS A À LA LA sArNrSAINTHLJBERT HUBERT - Small Small round round pdtds pâtés garnished with with game game pur6e purée

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t

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i

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i

To Toprepare preparebouchees, bouchées,roll roll out out puffpastry puff pastryand and cut cutout outcircles circleswith with aafluted Ilutedpastry-cutter pastry-cutter

Place Place the the circles circles of ofpastry pastry on on aa slightly slighùy moistened moistened metal metal tray tray

(I-arowse) (Larousse)

Mark Markthe thelid lidwith withaasmaller smallerpastry-cutter pastry-cutter

Bakedbouchees bouchéesready readyfor for filling(lnrousse) filling (Larousse) Baked

482 482

HORS-D'GUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE mussels mussels with with Allemande Allemande or or Poulette Poulette sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

Filling Filling the the patties. patties. Fill Fill with with aa simple simple or compound compound meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable salpicon, salpicon, blended blended with with white white or or brown brown stock, pur6es purées of of meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetables. vegetables. All All the the fillings fillings recommended recommended for for barquettes, barquettes, cro0tes, croûtes, tartlets and similar similar dishes dishes can also also be be used used for patties. Very Very tartlets and

Patties Patties with witb oysters. oysters. soucHfns BOUCHÉES lux AUX nulrnrs HuîTRES -- Fill Fill with with poached poached oysters, oysters, drained drained and and debearded, debearded, mixed mixed with with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with white white wine. wine. pfntcounDlNr Patties Patties ià la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. noucHfes BOUCHÉES A Àu LA PÉRIGOURDINE and foie Fill Fill with with a salpicon of of truffies truffles and foie gras, gras, blended blended with with SAUCE). Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SA UCE). Patties Patties with poultry. noucnfns BOUCHÉES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE - Fill Fill with with aa salpicon salpicon of of poultry poul try or or pur6e purée of of poultry poultry with with cream. cream. Patties ià la la reine. reine. BoucHEEs BoucHÉES A À rlr LA nnrxe REINE - Fill Fill with with aa pur6e purée of of poultry poultry with with cream cream or or Salpicon d à la la reine reine (see (see SALPTCON). SALPICON). Patties ià la Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert. BoucHEEs BOUCHÉES A À u LA slnqr-HUBERT SAINT-HUBERTsalpicon made Fill Fil! with a pur6e purée of of game game or salpicon made from from the the meat meat of of ground ground game. game. These patties patties should be oval. S6vign6 patties. Sévigné patties. BoucHEES BOUCHÉES s6vtctqf SÉVIGNÉ - Fill Fill with with aa salpicon salpicon of of (see in Veloutd chicken quenelles quenelles with truffies cooked in Velouté sauce sauce (see patty. each patty. SAUCE). Put half a heart of braised braised lettuce on on each Fill with cREvErrEs -- Fill Patties shrimps. soucHfEs Patties with sbrimps. BOUCHÉES A,Lx AUX CREVETTES with aa (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). ragofit shrimp tails with Shrimp sauce ragoût of shrimp with lux LArrANcEs Patties with soft roes. BoucH6ss BOUCHÉES AUX LAITANCES - Fill Fill with (see sauce (see Velouti sauce cream or soft roe with cream salpicon of soft a salpicon or with with Velouté sAUCE). SAUCE). Fill with with aa TRUFFES -- Fill BoucHEEs AI-rx truffies. BOUCHÉES Patties with trumes. AUX TRUFFES or with cream or in butter, butter, with stewed in of truffies truffies stewed salpicon of salpicon with cream with Madeira or similar similar wine. Madeira Russian This is is the Russian PIRocuI -- This Piroghi (Russian cookery). PIROGUI from be made made from can be Piroghi can pies of kinds. Piroghi various kinds. name for pies of various name for puff pastry, etc., etc., pancake batter, puffpastry, c h ou p a s t e, pancake do ughs : choupaste, different doughs: different game, fish, poultry, game, fish, such as as meat, poultry, filled with mixtures such. and filled and (See PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) vegetables, rice, cheese. (See pirozhok -- aa diminutive of diminutive of rIRoJKI -- Plural Plural of pirozhok Pirozlrki. PIROJKI Pirozhki. of different different all kinds of piroghii.e. small pie or patty, filled with ail piroghi- i.e. (See PIROGHI.) PIROGHI.) ingredients. (See small very small in the shape shape of aa very Pomponnettes -- Rissoles made in Pomponoettes pouch. (s?E DOUGH), paste (see DOUGH), to to aa quality Lining Lining paste Roll out out best best quality Roll pastryfluted pastrywith aa fluted circles with Cut circ1es thickness of 5 mm. (t thickness G inch). Cut diameter' (3 inches) in in diameter. 7| cm. cm. (3 cutter 7i Lightly puree the of aa walnut. walnut. Lightly size of the size of purée Fill with aa portion of Fill middle the middle fold in towards towards the and fold dough and moisten the rim of the dough hot pouch. Fry fat over over aa hot deep fat Fry in in deep shape of aa small pouch. to make the shape puffpastry. left-over puff from left-over can be made from Pomponnetter can flame. Pomponnetles flame. pastry. can be be used. used. rissoles can for rissoles recipes for given in in the the recipes All fillings given After FoURREEs -- After DE TERRE rERRE FOURRÉES potatoes. POMMES PoMI\tEs DE Stuffed potatoes. Stuffed of their their and two-thirds two-thirds of oven and in the the oyen potatoes have have been been baked in potatoes Ragofrt àd la cancalaise, cancalaise, Ragoût Ragofit àd la with Ragoût pulp scooped fill with out, fill scooped out, pulp (q.v') of of salpicon (q.v.) (see RAGOÛT) with aa salpicon or with RAGOOT) or Nanti (see 7a Nantua la poultry. poultry. garnished with with cream gamished with aa cream Flan filled filled with lorraine -- Flan Quicbe Quiche lorraine piping hot. hot. The The method method and served served piping bacon and of lean lean bacon thin slices slices of thin quiches isis described under QUICHE. described under preparing quiches of preparing of QUICHE.

small patties gamish for large dishes dishes of patties can be be used used as as a garnish various kinds. kinds. Slightly bigger bigger patties can be be served as small various entrées. entries. Just Just before before filling, filling, put put them them in the the oven oyen for a few seconds. IfIf at at all ail possible, possible, arrange the cooking cooking so that that garnishing garnishing can take place place the the minute minute they come come out out of of the oven. oyen. This This makes makes take great difference to the flavour. a great tlavour. The same same applies to all ail a dishes filled filled with a a salpicon or other hot kinds of pastry dishes garnish. l'américaine. soucH6ns BOUCHÉES A À l'*l6ntclrqr L'AMÉRICAINE - Fill Patties ià I'am6ricaine. salpicon of of spiny lobster lobster or or Lobster dà I'amiricaine l'américaine (see (see with a salpicon with LOBSTER). LOBSTER). à la b6n6dictine. bénédictine. noucnfrs BOUCHÉES A À r,c' LA s6Nfntcrnm BÉNÉDICTINE - Fill Patties A which with salt cod pounded with garlic, oil and cream, to which Coyer the patties with slices slices diced truffies have been added. Cover of truffies. truffies. of bouquetière. soucHEns BOUCHÉES A À u LA souQUErdRE BOUQUETIÈRE Patties ià la bouquetilre. FiU with vegetable vegetable macidoine macédoine (q.v.), blended with Bichamel Béchamel Fill Velouté sauce sauce (se,e (see SA UCE). SAUCE). or Velouti cr.c.MARr-- Fill with a BOUCHÉES A À rn LA CLAMART Patties ià la Clamart. Clamart. BoucHEEs pur6e of cream. purée of fresh peas with cream. ltrx ÉCREVISSES fcnrvtssns -- Fill with a Crayfisb BOUCHÉES AUX Crayfish patties. BoucHfEs (see sauce (see with Nantua ragoût of bound with Nantua sauce ragofrt tails bound of crayfish crayfish tails SAUCE). sAUCE). Fill with cnfcv - Fill m cRÉCY Patties à la with a soucHiss ÀA LA la Crécy. Crecy. BOUCHÉES puree of vegetable stock. purée of carrots cooked in vegetable A LA DIEPPOISE DIEPPoISE -- Fill with a noucn6ss À Patties Patties ài la dieppoise. BOUCHÉES White wine prawns blended with White and prawns salpicon blended with mussels and salpicon of mussels sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). LA FINANCIÈRE rrN.lNcriins -- Fill noucrSss ÀA LA Patties àI la la financière. financibre. BOUCHÉES (se SALPICON). Coyer with Cover with financière (see with Salpicon Salpicon àd la financiire sliced truffies. truffes. Fill with ruusNNE -- Fill soucHfEs À A LA Ll JULIENNE Patties àI la julienne. BOUCHÉES butter and blended vegetables eut cut into matchsticks, stewed in butter with cream.

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shellfish. or otber other sbeUfisb. spiny lobster, lobster, or lobster, spiny Patti es witb Patties with lobster, Fill with aa salpicon - Fill or Velouté Velouti Bichamel or blended with with Béchamel shellfish, blended of the the chosen chosen shel!fish, (see SAUCE) finished with with and finished fish stock stock and based on on fish sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based or any any (see BUTTER, butters) or Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound Crayfish butter (see Crayfish butter other shellfish butter. other shellfish (square shape). MoNTGLAS -noucH6Es MONTGLAS shape). BOUCHÉES Patties Patties Montglas Montglas (square combs and and cocks' combs sweetbreads, cocks' of lamb sweetbreads, Fill Fill with aa salpicon salpicon of Madeirawith aa Madeirablended with kidneys, and mushrooms, blended kidneys, truffies truffies and (see SAUCE). Top with with small small sauce (see SAUCE). Top flavoured Demi-glace sauce flavoured Demi-glace gras and slices of of truffies. foie gras slices of/are and slices slices of Fill with with MouLEs -- Fill Aux MOULES noucHfss AUX Patties mussels. BOUCHÉES Patties with with mussels. A LA L^1, LANGOUSTE L^lNcousrE HoMARD, À BOUCHÉES soucHfrs AU AU HOMARD,

illrl

Patties li.d la la reine reine Palties (Larousse) (Larousse)

483 483

HORS-D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Ramekins. RAMEQUINS RAl,rgeurNs -- Tartlets Tartlets with with cream cream cheese. cheese. This This Ramekin.~, name isis aJso given to also given pastry made to aa smaJi small pastry paste to made of of chou chou paste to name which cheese cheese isis added. added. For preparation sec For their their preparation see RAMERAMEwhich KINS. KINS. Rastegai -- Russian Russian patty, patty, made yeast dough made of of aa yeast dough and and Rastegai sealed only only atat the the ends. ends. Divide Divide the yeast dough the yeast g. dough into into 150 150 g. scaled (5 oz.) pieces, roll oz.) pieccs, roll into into balls, balls, allow allow to to stand stand for for 88 to to 10 l0 (5 minutes then then roll roll out into circJes. out into circles. Put Put on on each, each, 1I tabJespoon tablespoon minutes minced beef beef with with chopped chopped eggs eggs and and onion, forcemeat, or oniono fish fish forcemeat, or minced chopped mushrooms. mushrooms. Crimp Crimp up up the the ends, ends, making making aa boatboatchopped patty, leaving shaped patty, leaving the the middle middle unsealed unsealed and and the the filling filling shaped exposed. Hence Hence the the name, name, which which in in Russian Russian means means 'un'unexposed. buttoned'. Leave Leave to to stand stand for for 10 10 minutes, minutes, then then bake bake in in aa hOl hot bultoned'. oven. When \Mhen ready, ready, brush brush the the ras/ego; rastegai with with melted melted butter butter and and oven. garnish appropriate add gamish appropriate to to the the filling. filling. Thus, Thus, aa fish fish ras/egai rastegai add should have have aa slice slice of of cooked cooked salmon salmon or or sturgeon, sturgeon, for for aa should mushroom ras/egai rastegai aa teaspoon teaspoon of pickled cèpes of small small pickled cipes or or mushroom slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg, egg, etc. etc. Fish Fish raslegais rastegais are are served served as as an an slices (clear I1sh accompaniment to to ukha, ukha, (clear fish soup), rastegais to soup), meat meat ras/egais to accompaniment strong beef beef consommé, consomm6, and and mushroom mushroom raslegais rastegais to to mushmushstrong room consommé. consomm6. room pasta envelopes RavioH -- SmalJ Small pasta envelopes filled pur6e filled with with different different purée Ravioli poached. Serve stufrngs, and and poached. Serve in in aa clear grated clear soup soup with with grated stuffings, (See RAVIOLI.) cheese. (See RAVIOLI.) cheese. Ravio[ ài la la lituanielllle litranienre -- Sec See vareniki vareniki in in this this section. section. RavioU pastries of Rissoles -- Sm·aU Sm'all pastries (round, oval, of various various shapes shapes (round, oval, Rissoles rectangular or or turnovers). turnovers). Rissoles Rissoles are are made made from from aa variety variety rectangular of doughs, doughs, including paste, left-over including lining lining paste, puff pastry pastry or left-over puff or of pastry. They ordinary brioche brioche pastry. They are are filled filled mainly mainly with with crocroordinary quette ingredients. ingredients. The The filling filling should put on should ooly only be be put on the quette pastry when quite cold. when itit is is quite cold. For For the preparation method of of preparation pastry the method see RISSOLES. RISSOLES. see Generally speaking speaking rissoles should be be fried, fried, but someGenerally rissoles should but someare baked times in the the oyen. oven. times they they are baked in Rfssol€s àI la la bohémielllle boh6mienne -- Using (see dough (see Using Brioclu Brioche dough Rissoles DOUGH) shape of of turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill DOUGH) make make the the rissoles rissoles in in the the shape gras and with of foie and truffies salpicon of foie gras truffles blended blended with with rich rich with a a salpicon (see SA Demi-glace SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce sauce (see UCE). Rissoles chalonnaise -- Round Rissoles ili la la chalonnaise Round rissoles rissoles of of puff puff pastry. pastry. Fill Fil! with with aa salpicon salpicon of of cocks'combs cocks' combs and and kidneys, kidneys, trufles truffles and and mushrooms, SAUCE) mushrooms, blended blended with with thick truck Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) based chicken stock. stock. based on on crucken Cinderella Cinderella rissoles. rissoles. RrssolEs RISSOLES cENDR.TLLoN CENDRILLON - Make Make the rissoles shape of rissoles using using Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGII) DOUGH) in in the the shape of turnovers. turnovers. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of poultry poultry and and truffies truffles blended foic gras. blended with with a a prurbe purée of offoie gras. Rissoles Rissoles Ià la la dauphine dauphine -- Make Make Brioche Brioche dough dough rissoles rissoles in in the shape ofturnovers. of turnovers. the shape Rissoles Rissoles filled filled with with all ail kinds k.inds of of garnishes, garnishes, salpicons salpicons (q.v.), (q.v.), etc. etc. are are served served under under this this name. name. The The name name of of the the main main ingredients ingredient~ should should appear appear on on the the menu, rissoles d rissoles dà Foie gras gras rissoles à la la dauphine, dauphine, Lobster Lobs/er rissoles menu, e.g. e.g. Foie la dauphine, etc. la dauphine. etc. Farm Fann riseoles. rissoles, RIssoLEs RISSOLES A À r,q, LA FERMritnE FERMIÈRE ---- Made Made from from Lining Lining paste paste (s* (see DOUGH) DOUGH) cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil! with with aa salpicon salpicon of of equal equal quantities quantities of of ham ham and and mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables vegetables cooked cooked in in butter, butter, blended blended with with rich rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Foie Foie gras gras rissoles. rissoles, RJssoLEs RISSOLES AU Ali FoIE FOIE cRAs GRAS -- Choose Choose your yom dougb dough according according to to taste. taste. Fill Fil! with with aa puree purée of offoie foie gras gras to to which which chopped chopped trufres truffles cari cali be be added, added, ifif desired. desired. poMpADouR Pompadour RISSOLES POMPADOUR - Roll Roll out out Pompadour rissoles. rissoles. RJssoLEs left-over left-over puff puff pastry pastry and and cut cut into into circles. circles. Fill Fil] with with aa salpicon salpicon of of pickled pickl.xl or or smoked smoked tongue, tongue, truffies truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms blended blended wfih with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Sausages Sausages, sAucrssEs SAlIC1SSES -- Small Small chipolata chipolata sausages, sa usages, StrasStrasbourg, bourg, Frankfurt Frankfurt and and Vienna Vienna sausages sausages are are served served as as horshorsd'euvre. d'œuvre.

Devilled chipolata chipolata sausages. saussges. SAUCISSES sAucrsss CHIPOLATAS cHrpor,lrAs ÀA LA r,c, Devilled DIABLE - Cook Cook chipolata chipolata sausages sausages under grill. Put under aa grill. DIABLE Put each each sausage on on aa slice slice of which has of bread bread wruch has been fried in been fried in butter sausage butter and and

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spread with with mustard. mustard. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, spread season with with aa litt little put in cayenne and and put for aa minute. in the the oven oven for minute. season le cayenne Garnish with parsley. with fresh fresh parsley. Garnish Sausages ài la la duchesse. duchesse. SAUCISSES sAuclssns ÀA LA rl DUCHESSE oucnessn -- Fry Sousages Fry the the quickly in sausages quickly in butter. butter. Make Make oval oval cakes cakes of Duchess of Duchess sausages potato (see (see POTATOES) POTATOES) brown brown them thern in in the the oyen put aa oven and po/alO and put potato cake. sausage on on each each potato cake. sausage Add white white wine wine and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE) Add UCE) to to the the butter in in which which the the sa sausages were cooked. cooked. Boil Boil down, down, add add butter usages were pour trus more butter butter and and pmu this sauce sauce over over the the sausages. sausages. Sprinklc more Sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. with Frankfurf Strasbourg Shasbourg and and Vienna Viennq sausages. sausages. SAUCISSES sAucrssns DE Frankfurt, DE FRANCFoRT, DE DE STRASBOURG, srRAsBoLJRG, DE DE VIENNEvIENNE- Poach Poach the sausages the sausages FRANCFORT, in boiling boiling water water for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain, and grated and serve serve with with grated in horseradish. horseradish. Sausages I l'italienne. l'italienne. SAUCISSES sAUcIssEs À A L'ITALIENNEL'TTALTENNE - Proceed as Sausagesà as for Sausages àd la h duchesse. Pour very (see very thick {/a/ian ltalian sauce sauce (sec for SAUCE) over over the the sausages. sausages. SAUCE) Sausages ài la la languedocielllle. languedocienne. SAUCISSES sAucrssEs À A LA m LANGUElaNcwSausages DocIENNE - Fry the sa sausages Cut an aubergine aubergine into DOCIENNE usages in butter. Cut slices. Dip Dip in flour and and fry fry in in oil. oil. Put 1I sausage sausage on on each each slice slice slices. of fried fried aubergine, aubergine, and and top top with with JI tablespoon tablespoon Toma/o Tomato of (see FONDUE) FONDUE) seasoned seasoned with with aa liule little chopped chopped fondue fondue (see garlic. Sprinkle Sprinkle with fried frid breadcrumbs, put in the oyen oven for aa garlic. and serve. minute, sprinkle with chopped parsley and Sausage ài la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. SA sAucrssoN cHAUD A LA r,,c, LyoNNAls Sausage UCISSON CHA UD À LYONNAISEsausage served with hot potato salado salad. Poached saveloy sa usage served Saveloys are often often made made with with truffies, trufres, and and also also with Saveloys are with pistachio nuts added. pistachio Sausages il i la maltaise. maltai,se. SAUCISSFS sAucrssEs A rrlA,LrAlsn Sausages À r,c, LA MALTAISE - Fry the sausages in sausagcs in butter. Cut aa sandwich loaf into thick rectangular Hollow rectangular pieces. Hollow sausage on each piece. out and fry fry in butter. Put 1I sausage Add white wine to the butter in which the sa sausages usages were fried, stirring stirring well. Season with with a little little chopped chopped shallot. Make weil. Season (se SAUCE). Blanch sorne a rich Demi-glace sauce (sec some orange orange peel, strips and add sauce. peel, drain, drain, cut into into very very thin strips add to to the sauce. Pour sausages. Pour over the sausages. Sausages ài la sAucrssEs A la tyrolienne. tyrollelllle, SAUCISSES À ra LA rynolrENNE TYROLIENNE Cook the sausages sa usages under the grill. Cut a sandwich loaf Joaf into thick rectangular rectangular pieces. Hollow Hollow them out and fry in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with Tomato Tomalo fondue fondue (see (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Put I1 sausage sausage on each piece of of fried fcied bread. bread. Fry onion onion rinp rings in oil and put put 2 rings on each sausage. sausage. Sausages ià Ia la zingara. zingara. sAucrssns SAUCISSES A Àm LA zlNclna ZINGARA - Fry the the sausages sausages in butter. Grill Grill some sorne mushrooms mushrooms and and fill fill with a julienne Julienne (q.v.) of lean lean ham, scarlet tongue, truffies truffles and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put I1 sausage sausage on on each each garnishod garnished mushroom. mushroom. Sprinklewith Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Scallop Scallop shellg shells, gamished. coeurl.I,ns COQUILLES cARNrEs GARNIES - Using Using aa forcing-bag, forcing-bag, make make a a thin thin border border of Duchess Duchess potatoes potalOes (see (sec POTATOES) POT A TOES) round round the the edge edge of of the the scallop scallop shell. You You can can also also use use thin thin lspndlt rounds of of boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Put Put I1 tablespoon tablespoon of of the the desired desired sauce sauce on on the the bottom bottom of of the the shell. shell. Garnish Gamish according according to to the the recipe recipe chosen, chosen, and and spoon spoon over over some sorne more more of of the the same same sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadbreadcrumbs crumbs or or grated grated cheese, cheese, depending depending on on the the ingredients ingredients used, used, and and with with melted melted butter. butter. Put Put the the shells shells into into aa bakingdish bak.ing-dish containing containing warm warm water, water, and and brown brown in in aa very very hot hot oven. oyen. When When scallop scallop shells shells are are gratini gratine (sprinkled (sprinkled with with breadbreadcrumbs crumbs and and grated grated cheese cheese and and browned browned in in the the oven) oyen) or or glazd glazed (heated (heated quickly quickly in in aa hot hot oven), oyen), the the shells shells can can be be preprepared pared without without aa potato potato border. border. 484 484

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE For For all ail these these dishes dishes of of fish fish in scallop scallop shells shells you you can can use use up up left-overs left-overs of of boiled boiled or or braised braised fish fish such such as as perch, perch., cod, ccxl,

The The function function of of the the border border is Îs to contain contain the the ingredients ingredients of the the garnish. It can can be be made made of of different different preparations, prepara tions, which go go well weJJ with with the the main main ingredient ingredient of of the the garnish. garnîsh. You Vou can, can, for instance, make make a rim of chicken, veal or fish forcemeat forcemeat for the or pipe pipe a border border of of spinach, spinach, rice, rice, etc. the shells, or The The shells shells can can be he made made without breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or or glazing. glazing. If If they they are are made made with with a border border of of duchess potato potato they they should should be be baked quickly quîckly in the oven, to give give the the potato pota ta a good colour baked before before the garnish is added. added. After After the shells shells have have been been coated coated with with a sauce, sauce, browned browned or glazd, they can glazed, can be be decorated with with truffies, truffles, mushrooms, mushrooms, asparagus asparagus tips, etc. Care Care should be be taken to use use only only decorawhich are in harmony harmony with the basic ingredients. Ingredients. tions which Scallop Scallop shells shells of bonemarrow booe-marrow à la la duxellcs. duxelles. coQUILLES COQUILLES D'AMouRETrns D'AMOURETTES A À ul LA DUxELLES DUXELLES - Make a border of Duchess potatoes (see with slices slices of of bonebone(sec POTATOES). Garnish with Duxelles sauce.(see sauce (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). marrow, mushrooms and Duxelles SprÎnkle meltect butter and aod brown Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and meltod the top. After cooking, sprinkle sprÎnkle aa few drops of lemon juice juice on the shells and garnish with chopped parsley. parsley. of brains brains à I'allemande. l'aUemande. coQuILLEs COQU1LLES DE ScaJlop shells of Scallop shelh of duchess CERVELLE À L'ALLEMANDE - Make Make aa border border of cERvELLE A L'ALtrulNDE potatoes. Garnish Garnish with slices of lamb's or calf's brain and (sw SAUCE). G1aze Glaze in the oven. Allemande sauce (see cERvELLE I'aurore. coeuILLEs shelb of brains brains àI l'aurore. COQUILLES DE CERVELLE Scallop sheDs Garnish A a border À t'aunonE L'AURORE - Make a border of duchess potatoes. Garnîsh SAUCE). and Aurore sauce (see SA with brains, brains. mushrooms mushrooms and UCE). Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour melted Spriokle meltoo butter over the with chopped sprinkle with and brown. cooked, spriokle shells, and brown. When When cooked, shells, round them aa hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour rouod (se SAUCE). SAUCE). ring of Tomato sauce (sec la duxelles. coQUILLES DE brafurs à la duxelles. COQU1LLES Scallop shells shells of Scallop of brains same way way as nuxsl,r,Es - Prepare in in the r,l, DUXELLES cERvELLE À A LA CERVELLE the same slices of duxelles, using slices of shells of bone-marrow bone-marrow àd la h duxe/les, Scallop shells Scallop brains instead instead of of bone-marrow. bone-marrow. DE BARBUE coQUILLES DE of briU brill Mornay. Mornay. COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of Scallop with Garnish with MoRNAy -- Make a border border of duchess potatoes. Gamish MORNAY (see SAUCE). sauce (sec with Mornay slices of of cooked cooked brill brill with slices Mornay sauce pou melted melted butter over the shells and Sprinkle with cheese, pour brown. (In U.S.A. grey sole for flounder can can be be substituted for U.S.A. grey sole or or flounder (ln brill.) bril!.) coQUILLES DE brill à la la trouvillaise. trouvillaise. COQUILLES Scallop shells shells of of brill Scallop duchess Make aa border border of of duchess A LA TROUVILLAISE BARBIE À rnouvILLAIsE - Make BARBUE garnishing with slices slices of of Brown the the border before garnishlng potatoes. Brown (see SA sauce (sec SAUCE). shrimps and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce brill, mussels, mussels, shrimps brîU. UCE). glazed, but should be be decorated decorated they should shells are are not not glazed. but they These shells heads. with small mushroom heads. o'fcnrvtssss -- Make coeuILLEs D'ÉCREVISSES shells of crayfisb, crayfish. COQU1LLES ScaJlop Scallop sheUs potatoes and garnish with tail with Crayfish Crayfish tail and garnish rim of of duchess duchess potatoes aa rim (see CRA ragofrt àd la la NantUi7 CRAYFISH). Nantua (sec YFISH). ragoût (see below). shrimps (sec shells of of shrimps for Scal/op as for Scallop shel/s Finish as The shells shells used very smal!. should be very used should small. The AU D'oEUFs AU gratin. COQUILLES au gratin. coQuILLEs D'OEUFS of eggs eggs au Scallop sheDs shells of ScaJlop garnish potatoes and and gamish Make aa border of duchess duchess potatoes border of cRATIN - Make GRATIN Mornay sauce and Mortwy cut into into large dice, dice, aod hard-boiled eggs eggs cut with hard-boiled with in the the oven. oven. (see SAUCE). and brown in with checse cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see polssoNs -- Prepare as DE POISSONS Prepare as fish. COQU1LLES coeuIrI.Es DE shells of of fish. Scallop Scallop sheDs shrimps, of brill. brill, shrimps, for scallop scallop shells shells of the recipes recipes for described in in the described and mussels. mussels. soft roes roes and liver, lobster. lobster, oysters, oysters, soft crayfish, skate skate Iiver, crayfish, garnishes and directed in in the the sauces, as as directed and sauces, Fill the the shells shells with with gamishes FiJI for fish fish in in scallop scallop often for The sauces sauces used used most most often recipe chosen. chosen. The recipe shrimp, duxe/les, duxelles, Aurore, Béchamel, Bicharnel, shrimp, following: Aurore. shells are are the the following: shélls Nantua, niçoise, nigoise, Italian, Mornay, Mornay, Naotua, Hungarian, curry, curry, Italiao, lobster, Hungarian, lobster, sauce. white wine wine sauce. normande and and white normande fish are are scallop sheUs shells of of fish recipe chosen, chosen, scallop According to to the the recipe According grated cheese, or they they are are cheese, or or grated sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or sp:-inkled glazd. simply simply glazed.

coalfish, skate, salmon, salmon, sole, sole, trout trout, turbot, turbot. etc. coalfish, whiting, whiting, hake, hake, skate, Scallop left~overs. coQutLLEs COQUILLES A À t,l LA rrdueatnn MÉNAGÈRE ScalJop shelh shells of left-overs. Make Make a a border border of of Potato POlato purie puree (se (see POTATOES) POT A TOES) and and garnish garnish with with minced minced left-over left-over pieces pieces of of boiled boiled beef beef blended blended with Sprînkle the the shells sbells with with with Tomato TomalO sauce (se (see SAUCE). Sprinkle breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and brown brown in in the oven. oven.

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Left-overs Left·overs in in shells can cao also also be be prepared prepared with with minced minced mutton or veal. vea!. If If minced mÎnced veal is used, used, blend with with a a thick thick SAUCE). Velouti Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Velolllé or Bicharnel Scallop Scallop shelb sheDs of lobster. c@uILLEs COQUILLES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Make Make a border with with duchess duchess potatoes and and garnish garnish with with pieces pieces of of lobster, or salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of lobster lobster wth with Bichamel, Béchamel, Lobster LobSler Sprinkle the or or Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle the shells shells with with

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grated cheese and brown brown the top. Scallop of meat. coquu,les COQUILLES DE DE vIANDES VIANDES - Follow F ollow the the ScaDop shells sbells of bone-marrow. Leftdirections directions given given for for Scallop Sca/lop shells shells of of bone~marrow. Left· overs of boiled, braised or roast wast lamb, mutton, mutton, beef beef or or veal veal can be used. used. Scallop Sc III Il op shells of of mussels. coQrtILLEs COQUILLES DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Prepare Prepare for Scallop shells of as as described described in the the recipes recipes for Scallop shel/s of oysters or or of the of soft roes. Scallop shells of roes. You You can also also follow follow any any of the recipes for fish in În scallop shells. dirble. coQrlILLEs shells of oysters à la diable. Scallop sheUs COQU1LLES D'HUlTnss D'HuîTRES ScaUop and garA À r,c, LA oIABIT DIABLE - Make a a border of duchess potatoes potatoes and garand thick and bearded, and oysters, drained and nish with poached oysters, thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) made with the water in which seasoned with of the oysters have have been been poached, poached, seasoncd with a pinch pÎncb of the oysters Brown. frid breadcrumbs. Brown. with fried Sprinkle the shells with cayenne. Sprinkle as oysters cooked in this way are often known Shells with oysters known as Oysters Oysters àd la diable. D'ttutTnEs coQUILLEs D'HuîTRES shells of Scallop sbeDs Scallop of oysters oysters Mornay. Mornay. COQU1LLES garnish potatoes and and garnish of duchess potatoes MoRNAy -- Make aa border of MORNAY and Mornay and debearded, poached oysters. debearded, and oysters, drained and with poached Mornay pour butter grated cheese, butter cheese, pour (see SA with grated SAUCE). sauce (sec UCE). Sprinkle with over the shells, and brown. In poultry. COQU1LLES on VOLAILLES vot.,qlrrss - In coQLTILLES DE shells of of poultry. Scdlop sheUs ScaJlop ordinary should be used. principle, only the white meat should used, but in ordinary principle, to use use are served served mainly mainly to shells are these shclls home kitchens, where these poultry can parts of the poultry can be be used. all parts up left-overs, al! used. DE poultry à l'allemande. coQlJrLLEs DE I'allemande. COQUILLES of poultry shlls of Scallop sheDs ScaJlop Make aa border border of of duchess A L'ALLEMANDE t'lr,lnulNDE - Make voLATLLE À VOLAILLE poultry meat meat and white pollltry garnish with slices of potato€s and of white and gamish potatoes (se SA hot oven. oven. SAUCE). Glaze in aa hot Allemande sauce (sec Allemande UCE). Glaze VoLAILLE poultry Monselet. COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE coQUILLES DE shells of poultry Scallop sbeDs Scallop potatoes. Gamish Garnish of duchess duchess potatoes. Make aa border border of MoNsELET - Make MONSELET poultry meat. and hearts and meat, artichoke artichoke hearts white poultry slices of of white with slices with (see SA SAUCE). Mornay sauce sauce (see Mornay UCE). After grated cheese and in the the oven. oven. After and brown in Sprinkle with grated garnish each with 22 sUces slices of of each shell shell with the oven, oven, gamish taking out out of of the taking hearts cooked cooked in in sliced artichoke artichoke hearls with sliced trufle aiternating alternating with trume butter. princesse. COQUILLES DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE coQLnLLEs DE ofpoultry shelb of Scallop shells Scallop poultry princesse. pRINcEssE - Make aa border of potatoes. of duchess duchess potatoes. PRINCESSE poultry meat Allemanfu meat and and Allemande of white poultry slices of Garnish with with slices Gamish (see SA SAUCE). sauce (see UCE). sauce put on shell2 sHces slices glaze. Just on each she1l2 serving, put Just before before serving, Do not glaze. in butter. butter. tips cooked cooked in of asparagus asparagus tips truffie and and aa bouquet of of trume poulhy Rossini. DE VOLAILLE VoLAILLE Rossini. COQUILLES coeuILLFs DE Scallop sbel1s shelb of of poultry Scal10p potatoes and Duchess potatoes and brown RossIM - Make Make aa border border of of Duchess ROSSTNI garnish. before adding adding the garnish. before poultry meat, meat, truffies trufles and and with slices slices of of white white poultry Garnish with GarnÎsh (see SAUCE). SAUCE). ttick Madeira sauce (see thick gras put on shell 1I slice slice of of foie serving, put on each each shell Just before before serving, Just foie gras trufle. and aa slice slice of of trume. saut6ed in in butter, butter, and sautéed pfukled tongue. pouttry with with smoked snoked or or pickled tongue. shells of of poultry Scallop shells Scallop Make aa border of border of VoLAILLE ÀA L'ÉCARLATE r'fcmure - Make coeuILLEs DE DE VOLAILLE COQUILLES

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485

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE prrrrs SOUFFLÉS Small oyster oyster soufflés la cancalalse. souffies ài la cancalaise. PETITS lux sourrrrs AUX Small ons Ài LA LA CANCALAISE cANcALArsp -- Poach Poach 12 12 oysters oysters in in their their DITS juice. Drain. own juice. Drain, and and dry dry in in aa clotho cloth. own Boil down (t pint, down the the cooking cooking stock stock and pint, -î3 cup) and add add lt l| dl. dl. (l cup) Boil (see SAUCE). thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Strain, Strain, and and blend blend with with thick yolks. Add egg yolks. Add the the oysters oysters cut cut in in two two and and the the beaten beaten egg egg 33 egg whites. whites. Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in the the preceding recipes. Finish pETrrs SOUFFLts pRrNprircesse. PETITS Small soufflés souflds ài la la princesse. sourrrfs ÀA LA r-q, PRINSmal] cEssr -- Fîll Fill the the cassolelles cassolettes with with altemate alternate layers layers of of the the mixmixCESSE (see SOUFFLE) ture used used for for Chicken Chicken sou./ffé souffii (see SOUFFLE) and and aa salpicon salpicon ture of truffies truffes and and asparagus asparagus tips. tips. of Finish as preceding recipes. as described described in in the the preceding Finish pETrrs SOUFFLÉS Small soft soft roe roe soufflés. soufres. PETITS sourrrfs DE DE LAITANCES LArrANcEs -SmaU drain the soft soft roe of of carp carp or or other other fish. fish. Rub Rub Poach, cool and drain g oz.) fine sieve. g. (4 sieve. To To each each 125 125 g. pur6e add oz.) of this this purée add through aa fine (+ pint, ît cup) l+ dl. dl. (i (se,e SA cup) thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). It UCE). egg yolks and and add add the the 3 beaten egg egg whites. whites. Blend with 3 egg Finish as described preceding recipes. described in in the preceding Finish $rbrics - Sirnilar Similar to to small small croquettes croquettes except that that they they are are Subrics·not dipped dipped in egg egg and breadcrumbs and fried in in deep fat, but but are cooked cooked În in bulter butter in pan. For in aa shallow shallow pan. For their their general are preparation see see SUBRICS. SUBRICS. preparation Brain and and bone-marrow bone-marrow subrics. srbrics. SUBRICS suBRIcs DE! DE CERVELLE. cERVELLE, Brain D'AMouRETrss -- Poach Poach aa calf's calf's brain, brain, drain. drain, and and cut cut into n'AMOURETTES tenine. large dice. Put into aa terrine. (3 tablespoons, Add t+ dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant t* cup) cup) Allemande or Add (se, SAUCE). Bdcharnel sauce (see SAUCE), and and 1I egg egg beaten beaten as as for for an Béchamel sauce Season with with salt, salt, pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mix careomelette. Season fully so as not to crush the brain. brain. Finish as described under SUBRICS. Serve with (see SA with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SUBRICS. UCE). of calCs calf's brain equivalent of sheep or ox ]Instead nstead of brain an equi valent amount of be used. brains can he Subrics made of sweetbreads and are preSubrics and bone-marrow bone-marrow are pared pared in the same manner. Brain srbrics àI I'italienne. suBRrcs DE DE CERVELLE cERvELLE À A Brain subrics l'italienne. SUBRtCS L'ITALENNE eggs beaten as L'iTALfENNE - Dice the brains and blend blend with wÎth 22 eggs for an omelette, rnixed mixed with for an with IJ tablespoon flour flour seasoned seasoned with pepper pepper and nutmeg. Add 2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) grated grated Parmesan Parmesan Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 cheese. Serve with cheese. Finish FinÎsh as as described under under SUBRICS. Serve Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Snbrics Subrics ià la la florentine - Make a a preparation for subrics subrics with with spinach and finish 6nish off off with 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., I! cup) grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese. Finish Finish as as described described under SUBRICS. SUBRICS. Subrics Subdcs of goose goose liver. susnrcs SUBRIC'l DE DE ForE FOrE cRAs GRAS - Put Put 50 g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz.,! c,rp) cup) sifted siftcd flour floue into a bowl. bowl. Add Il egg egg beaten as for an omelette, and and22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons thick thick cream. cream. Season Season with witb salt and pepper, pepper, and mix. Cook Cook 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) goose goose liver. Cool and dice. Mix Mix carecarefully fully into into the the above above preparation. preparation. Finish Finish as as described under under SUBRICS. Serve with with PdriPerigueux (see SAUCE). SA UCE). gueux sauce sauce (see Subrics Subrics Ià la la menaglre menagère - Dice Dice 250 g. g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cold cold braised braised or or boiled boilcd beef. bcef. Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped onion onion cooked cooked in in butter butter until until very very soft, soft, and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Blend Blend this this mixture mixture with with 22 beaten beaten eggs and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon flour. flouL Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix Mi", well. weil. Finish Finish as as describod described under under SUBRICS. SUBRICS. Subrics Subrics can can be be prepared prepared in in the the same sarne way, way. using using all ail kinds kinds of of cold cold cooked cooked meat rneat and and fish. 6sh. Pultry Poultry liver Iiver grbrics. subrics. suBRrcs SUBRICS DE DE ForEs FOIES DE DE voLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Cook Cook chicken chicken (or (or other other poultry) poultry) liver liver in butter. butter. Cool Cool and and dice. dice. Blend Blend with2 with 2 beaten beaten eggs, eggs, I1tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Finish Finish as as described described under under SUBRICS. SUBRICS.

potatoes and duchess potatoes and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. duchess Garnish with poultry meat, with slices slices of of white white poultry meat, smoked smoked or or Gamish pickled tongue (see SA Allemande sauce tongue and and Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). pickled UCE). just before glaze, but Do not not glaze, blut sprinkle sprinkle the the shells shells just before serving serving Do with chopped chopped tongue. tongue. with Scallop shells shelh of of shrimps.. shrimps. COQùlLLES coqur,I,Es DE DE CREVETTES cREvETTEsMake Scallop - Make potatoes. Gamish border of of duchess duchess potatoes. Garnish with with aa ragoût ragofit of of aa border shrimps' tails (se SA tails with with Béchamel Bdchamel or or Velouté Yelouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE) shrimps' UCE) (see BUTTER, finished with with Shrimp Shrimp bu/ter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound finished butters). but/ers). grated cheese, pour meIted Sprinkle with with grated cheese, pour melted butter the butter over over the Sprinkle shells and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. shells shells of skate Hver Scallop sbeUs of skate liver and ad browo brown butter. butter. COQUlLLES coeurt,t,Es Scallop DE FOIE FoIE DE DE RAIE RAIE AU AU BEURRE BET.JRRE NOIR NorR -- Make Make aa border border of of duchess duchess DE potatoes and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Garnish Garnish with with slices slices of of potatoes cooked skate skate liveT. liver. cooked pounded parsley, parsley, and Sprinkle with with pounded and aa few few drops drops of lemon lemon Sprinkle juice. At At the potn Brown the la last (see BUTTER, moment pour Brown butter (see BUTTER, juice. st moment Compound but/ers) butters) over over the the shells. shells. Compound Scallop sbeUs shells of polonaise. COQUILLES of skate skate liver liver àA la la polonaise. coerJrllrs DE DE ScalJop por"oNArs -- Dress FoIE DE DE RAŒ nau ÀA LA r.A POLONAISE Dress and garnish as and garnish as directed directed FOIE for Scallop Scallop shells shelb of ofskate liver and andbrown butter. for skate /iver brown bUller. yolks of Sprinkle with with the the chopped chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and and Sprinkle parsley. chopped parsley. chopped Brown fine (see BUTTER. breadcrumbs in fine breadcrumbs in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Noisette butter Brown Compound bulters) butters) and and sprinkle sprinkle over over the sheJJs. shells. Compound Scallop shells shells of of soft soft roes roes ài la la florentine. florentine. COQUILLES DE coerrrllEs DE Scallop LAITANcES À A LA rl FLORENTINE rroneNTrNE -- Make Make aa border border of of duchess LAITANCES potatoes. Garnish Garnish with with slices slices of soft soft carp rocs roes or hcrring herring roes potatoes. arranged on on aa layer layer ofspinach of spinach cooked cooked in butter, butter, aod and Mornay arranged Mornay (see SA sauce (see gratod cheese and SAUCE). Sprinkle with grated and brown UCE). Sprinkle sauce in the oven. in the oven. Scallop she)1s shelb of sweetbreads. COQUILLES coeurI.r,ns DE Rrs D'AGNBAU Scallop of sweetbreads. DE RIS D'AGN~AU­Prepare sweetbreads as as described described in the recipes Prepare with with lambs' lambs' sweetbreads for Scallop Scallop shells shells of of bone-marrow shells of or Scal/op Scallop shel/s of brains. bone-marrow or for Small soufflés. soufr6s. pETrrs sourrrfs -- These These are are made made in SmaU PETITS SOUFFLÉS cassolettes all the described in cassolettes from from ail the different different mixtures mixtures described in the section on SOUFFLES. SOUFFLÉS. section on Small soufrds SmaU soufflés Ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. prnrs PETITS sourFt,fs SOUFFLÉS A À r'.ltvrfnrL'AMÉRIcArNE the cassolettes with alternate alternate layers CAINE -- Fill Fill the cassolelles with layers of of the lhe mixture soffii (see mixture used used for for Lobster Lobs/er soufii sou./ffe or or Spiny lobster lobs/er soufflé (see SOUFFLES) and SAt piCOtD. SOUFFLÉS) and Salpicon Salpicon dà l'amiriiaine l'américaine (see (sec SALPICON). Finish Finish in in the the ordinary ordinary way way as as described described in the the section on SOUFFLES. SOUFFLÉS. Snall SmaU soufl€s soufflés ià I'aurore. l'aurore. pETrrs PETITS sourrrts SOUFFLF..$ A À l'.1,(nonn L'AURORE -Garnish for Chicken Gamish the the cassoletles cassolelles with with the the mixture mixture for Chicken souffii soufflé (see (see SOUFFLE) SOUFFLÉ) and and add add concentrated concenlrated tomato tomato juice. juice. When When the the souffi6s soufflés come come out out of of the the oven oven sprinkle sprinkle them them with with the the chopped chopped yolk yolk of of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Small Small crayfish crayfisb soufl6s soufflés ià Ia la Nantra Nantua I. J. psrrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS o'fcnnvrssns D'ÉCREVISSES (A (À la LA NlNrue) NANTUA) -- Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve 125 125 g. g. (4 (whiting, (4 oz.) oz.) white white fish fish (whiting, cod cod or or sole) sole) cooked in butter. buller. Add to to this this pur6e purée l| Hdl. dl. Q (~ pint, pint, 3~ c.rp) cup) crayfish crayfish puree purée blended blended with with thick thick Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Season Season with with a a little little cayenne. cayenne. Blend Blend with with 33 egg egg yolks yolks and, and, at at the the last last minute, minute, work work 33 stifry stiffly beaten beaten egg egg whites wbites into into the the mixture. mixture. perrrs Small SmaU crayfish crayfish souffies soufflés Ià la la Nantua Nantua II. II. PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS o'EcnnvtssEs D'ÉCREVISSES (i, (À r.l, LA NlNrul) NANTUA) -- Prepare Prepare the the mixture mixture as as describod described in in the the preceding precedîng recipe. recipe. When il into into the the cassolettes cassolettes afian5e arrange alternate alternate When putting putting it layers layers of of salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of crayfish crayfish tails tails with with trufres. truffles. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipe. reeÎpe. Small Sm.all crayfish crayfish soufles soufflés with with Parmesan. Parmesan. pETrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS p'fcnevlssrs D'ÉCREVISSES AU AU IARMESAN PARMESAN - Fill Fill the the cassolettes cassolettes with with aa layer layer of of the the mixture mixture used used for for Parmesmt Parmesan soffii souffle (see (see SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ). On On this this put put IJ tablespoon tablespoon Crayfish Crayfish tail tail ragofit ragoût dli la la Nantua Nantua (se (sec CRAYFISH). of Parmesan Parmesan CRA YFISH). Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of soufr6 soufflé mixture. mixture. Finish Finish as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipes. recipcs.

HulTREs, HutTRES,

486 486

HORS.D'(EUVRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE Rice Rice srbrics subrics ià la la pi6montaise. piémontaise. swntcs SUBRICS DE DE RIz RIZ A Àm LA prfuottPIÉMONrAIm TA1SE -- Blend Blend 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz. oz. l] Hcups) cheese cheese risotto risotto with with 22 beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Add Add I1to to 22 tablespoons tablespoons lean, chopped chopped ham, ham, and and

SAUCE) on on the the mushrooms. mushrooms. Argenturil tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs ARGENTEUTL ARGENTEUIL -- Fill Fil! with with ChicEm purie purée (see (see PUREE). Cover Cover with with asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Beatrix Beatri.x tartlets tartlet... TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES sflrRx BÉATRIX - Garnish Garnish with with Mushroom purie (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Make Make aa border border of of shrimps. Put a poached oyster oyster on on each each tartlet. tartlet. Cover Cover with wilh Normandc Norman/Y> sauce SA UCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Cxnied Curried tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTEs TARTELETTES A À I'tNplENNn L'iNDIENNE -- Fill Fill with with aa prawn ragofrt made with with cuffy. Put Put I1 teaspoon tcaspoon Rice Rice dà I'inl'inragoût made dienru (see RICE) on on each each tartlet. (sec RICE) Tartlets ià l'6coss8ise. l'écossaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A À r'fcosslts L'ÉCOSSAISE - GarGarnish nish with with Salmon Salmon purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Cover with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated cheese, cheese, and and brown. brown. Put Put aa piece of of sliced sliced truffie trurne on on each tartlet. tartlet. Tartlets ià la la japonaise. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES A Â r"l LA r.lpopusn JAPONAISE -- Fill Fil) with with Chinese Ch.inese artichdkes with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with fried fried through in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wannthrough in the the oven. oven. Metternich Mertemicb tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTES METTERNIcS METTERNICH - Garnish Garnish with with a a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads sweelbreads and and truffies truffles seasoned seasoned with with paprika. paprika. Put Put aa small small slice slice of of calf's calf's brain brain on on each each tartlet. tartlet. wth Hungariot Cover Cover with Hungarian. sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Tartlets Tartlets ià la la mirepoil. mirepoix. rlnrsrsmns TARTELETTES A Â r,l LA unspox MIREPOIX - Fill Fil! with wÎth aa mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of of vegetables cooked cooked in in butter butter with with aa salpicon salpicon of ham harn blended blended with rich rich veal veal gravy. Cover Cover with with (see FORCEMEATS). a a thin thin layer layer of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat forcemea/ (sec Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. TARTELETTEs PRINTANIA Printania Printania tartlets. tartlets. TARTELETTES PRINTANlA - Fill Fill with with Sprinkle with cream. Sprinkle morels in in cream. with fried fried breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Warm Wann and then through through in in the the oven oven and then put put I1 teaspoon teaspooD asparagus asparagus tips tips tartlet. cooked cooked in butter butter on on each each tartlet. with aa salpicon salpicon Fill with nfcIN,c. -- Fi!! TARTELETTEs RÉGINA Regina tarttets. tliIrtlets. TARTELEl"TES Sprinkle with with cream. cream. Sprinkle and truffies of mushrooms and of truffies with with fried fried put aa and then then put oven and through in breadcrumbs. Warm Warm through in the the oven each on each in butter saut6ed in of sweetbread sweetbread sautéed slice of very small small slice butter on very tartlet. tart/et.

(see

mix. mile. Finish Finish the the subrics subrics in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Semolina Semoli.na subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS DE Dr; sEMouLE SEMOULE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Rice Rice subrics subrics d à Ia la piimonlaise, pîémonlaise, using using semolina semolina cooked cooked in in aa clear stock or or in in milk. milk. Omit Omit the the chopped chopped ham, ham, ifif desired. d~ired. cJear stock Sweetbread Sweetbread srbrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE RIs RlS DE DE vEAU, VEAU, D'AGNEAU n'AGNEAU -Proceed Proceed as as described described for for Brain Brain subrics, subrics, using using aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Talnouse Talmouse -- This This can be he made made in many many different different ways ways but but itit should always always have have cheese checs.e as a basis. basis. Line tartlel tins tins with with Fine Fine linW lining paste(see pasle (see DOUGH) DOUGB) Line fluted fluted tartlet and and fill fil! with whatever whatever cheese chccse preparation preparation is is given given in in the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Brush with with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with Gruydre Gruyère cheese, cheese. dîce, and and bake bake in a slow oven. oven. Take tbe the talmouses out oui of of the the dice, tins. tins. Talmouses which which have Gougire Gougère batter baller (see (sec DOUGH) DOUGH) as aa basis basis are often filled fùled with with a cream cheese cheese mixture after after they are cooked. Talmouses Talmouses A à I'ancienne J'ancienne - Roll RoU out out some sorne left-over puff puff pastry to ta a thickness of 5 mm. (+ inch). Cut into squares of of 6 cm. cm. (2t (21· inches). inches). Coat with a thin layer of the mixture ml."
DE SAINT-DENIS sAINT-DENIS TALMous$ DE talmouses. TALMOUSES Saint-Denis talmouses. Saint-Denis

name cavers covers cARNIEs-This garnished. TIMBALES TIMBALES GARNIESTimbales, gamished. This name in shape shape but but similar in are aU all similar which are dishes which small dishes variety of small aa variety differ. ingredients differ. their ingredients their motifs of cif with tiny tiny motifs Decorate wîtb moulds. Decorate dariole moulds. Use butlered buttered dariole Use Alternatively, sprinkle ham. Altematively, lean ham. or lean scarlet tongue or truffie, scarlet truffte, Line with with aa layer of tongue. Line or chopped tongue. with choppe
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1747' Amsterdam 1747. from Cuisinier Cuisinier gascon, Amsterdam Recipe from preparation of cream .'Make Make ord Înary puff pastry;, take aa rlrf'rI,;j,.,.IH'In ordinary work it thoroughly with your hands; cheese and drain well;; wark will absorb, a grain of salt, as the the cheese will add as as many eggs as add put aa layer well mixed, put is aU all wc]) when this is flour; when and aa pinch of flaur; and puff pastry pastry and fold and fold rolled-out puff on the rolled-out mixture on of the cheese mixture oven and and in the the aven bake in over with egg, egg, bake Brush over over both layers. Brush serve.' quiche. to aa chees.e cheese quiche. very similar similar to is very kind of talmouse is of talmouse This kind This the Prepare the fpmmos- Prepare Aux ÉPINARDSTALMousEs AUX Spinach talmouses. tahnous€s. TALMOUSES Spmach previorrs recipes and fill and fil! of the the previous in any any of describod in talmouses as as described talmouses grated (see SOUFFLÉ) to which grated SOUFFLE) la soufii (see them with with aa Spinach Spinach souffle them added. cheese has been been added. cheese preceding recipes. recipes. the precedîng described in in the as descrÎbed Finish the the talmouses talmouses as Finish preparaThe preparacARNIEs -- The Tartlets, Tart 1ets, garnished. TTARTELEmES ARTILEITES GARN1ES from for barquet/es, as for barquettes, from the same same as tartlets isis the tion of of garnished tartlets tion can be be These lartlets tartlets can in their their shape. These only in differ only which they di.ffer which made from from usually made are usually prepared from ail kinds ofdoughs of doughs but are all kiods prepared (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fine lining lining paste (sec Fine for described for moulds as described tartlet mou fluted tartlet some round round or or fluted Line some Line Ids as Take them them blind. Take (see above). tartlets blind. Bake the the tartlets Barquettes (sec above). Bake Nlll'IJU.plI/'.t in the the chosen chosen recipe. finish as as descrihed described in and finish out of their their tins tins and given in recipes which in the the recipes fillings given the fillings In addition to the addition to can similar dishes dishes cau given for and similar for barquettes barquettes and follow, ail all those those given follow, for tartlets. tartlets. be used used for be Coat the the soRrr. -- Coat TARTELETTES,lcNb Agnes Sorel Sorel tartlets. tardets. TARTELETTES AGNÈS SOREL A.gnes (see purde (see layer of of Chicken Chicken purée with aa layer bottom of of the the tartlets tartlets with very sma!! small slices slices of of of very with aa border border of PUREE). Surround Surround with pickled or tongue. Put Put aa or smoked smoked tangue. of chickcn and pickled breast of chicken and breast middle. head in in the the middle. mushroom head mushroom sauce little AAllemande Pour aa little in the oven. Pour Heat through the oven. through in Heat lIemonde .wuce

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487 487

HORSE HORSE BUTCHERY BUTCHER y forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with diced macaroni, macaroni, forcemeat blended blendcd with with cream, crcam, to to which which a a salpicon of of truffies trumes and chopped choppcd tongue tongue has has been been added. added. Finish Finish in the usual usual way way and serve serve with SuprAme Suprême sauce sauce (sw (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Beauvilliers Beauvilliers timbales. timbales. TTMBALES TIMBALES BEALTwLLTERS BEAUVILLIER.<; - Line buttered buttered moulds mou Ids with with an an unsweetened unsweetened Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Bake Bake and leave leave to cool. Empty Empty the the brioches, brioches, leaving leaving a crust 5 mm. (f (t inch) thick. Warm breast Warm slightly slightly in in the the oven. oyen. Fill Fill them them with with aa salpicon salpicon of ofbreast of of chicken chicken and truffies trumes blended blended with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put a bouquet bouquet of of asparagus asparagus tips tips cooked in in butter on on each each timbale. timbale. Timbales à l'6picurienne l'épicurienne - Sprinkle the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and line line them them with a layer layer of of rice, rice, cooked in which chopped added. This in meat meat stock, stock, to towhich chopped truffies trumes have have been beenadded. This layer layer should should cover coyer the the sides of the the moulds moulds evenly and be be about about 5 mm. (* (t inch) inch) thick. thick. Fill Fill with with a a salpicon salpicon of of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies trumes and and scarlet scarlet tongue tongue blended blended with Mushroom Mushroom purrie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Cover Coyer the the salpicon salpicon with with a layer layer of of the the rice rice cooked in in meat meat stock. Cook these these small timbales timbales in in the the oven oven for 88 minutes. minutes. Leave Leave them them to to settle set Ile a little little before before turning turning out. Serve Serve with with Tomato TomalO sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Timbales Timbales Il la la fermilre fermière - Butter Butter the the moulds moulds and coat with with aa brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (g.v.) of of vegetables vegetables cookod cooked in in butter. butter. Line Line with with aa thin lhin layer layer of of forcemeat, forcemeat, and fill fill with with a macidoine macédoine (q.v.) (g.v.) of vegetables vegetables mixed mixed with with thick thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Serve emi-g lace sauce Serve with with aa light light DDemi-glace sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales Il la la milanaise milanaise - Butter Butler the the moulds moulds and and line line with with macaroni macaroni cooked cooked in in water, water, drained drained and and dried. dried. Lay Lay the the macaroni macaroni in aa spiral shape shape against against the the sides sides of of the the moulds. moulds. Cover Cover them them with with aa thin thin layer layer of of fine fine Chicken Chicken or or Veal Veal forceforcemeat meat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill Fil! with with aa salpicon salpicon of ofpickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue, tongue, lean lean ham, ham, truffies truffles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with rich rich tomato-flavoured tomalo-fiavoured (se SAUCE). Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce(see SA UCE). Servewith Serve with tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured demi-glace demi-glace sauce. sauce. Timbales Timbales iIl la la Montrouge Montrouge -- Decorate Decoratc the Ihe buttered buttered moulds mou Ids with lean ham ham and and line line with with fine fine Chickm Chicken forcemeat forcemeat (se (sec with lean FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Garnish Garnish witha with a salpicon salpicon of of chicken chicken mixed mixed with Mushroom Mushroom purie purée (see (see PUREE). PURÉE). Serve Serve with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce (see Timbales Timbales ilIl la la nantuatienne nantuatiemre - Decorate Deco ra te buttered butlered moulds mou Ids with Line them and truffies. truffles.Line them with with a a fine Fish Fish with crayfish crayfish tails tails and (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEM EATS) with with Crayfish Crayfish butter bwter (see (sec forcemeat (see forcemeat BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bUl/ers). Fill FiJI with with crayfish crayfish pur6e purée (see (sec PUREE, PURÉE, Shrimp Shrimp purie) purée) to to which which aa salpicon salpicon of of crayfish crayfish tails tails has added. Serve Serve with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SA UCE). has been been added. Timbales Timbales IIl h la pi6montaise piémontaise -- Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with pickled pickled or or smoked smoked tongue longue and and truffies trumes cut cut into into very very small risotto made made with with saffron, saffron, to to which which aa fine fine small dice. dice. Fill FiJI with with risotto julienne julienne (q.v.) (g.v.) of of white white truffies truffies has has been been added. added. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales IIl la la polonaise polonaise -- Butter Butter the the moulds moulds and and line tine with with strips strips cut cut from from thin thin unsweetened unsweetened pancakes pancakes (crdpes). (crépes). Add Add aa light of Chickenforcemeat Chicken forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) with with light layer layer of cream. cream. Fill Fill with with aa puree purée of of brains brains to to which which chopped chopped truffies trumes have have been been added. added. Serve Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales à la la printanilre printanière Cook Cook carrots, carrots, turnips turnips and and French French beans. beans. Cool, Cool, and and cut eut into into short short narrow narrow strips. strips. Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds rnoulds with with these. these. Line Line with with aa thin thin coating r c eme at (see ne I le fo coating of of Que Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill daine of vegetables blended c hame I Fill with with aa macd macédoine ofvegetables blended with with Bi Béchamel sauce (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with aa light Jight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Timbales Timbales iIl la la Rossini Rossini -- Decorate Decorate the the buttered buttered moulds moulds with with trufres trumes and and line line them them with with fine fine Chickm Chicken or or Veal Vealforcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS).

Fill with a salpicon salpicon of offoie foie gras and truffies trumes blended blended with a rich Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce flavortred flavourcd with witb trufle trume essence. essence. Timbales Timbales tIl la la Saint-Hubert -- Decorate Decorate the the buttered bultered moulds moulds with with chopped chopped trufres trumes and and chopped, chopped, pickled pickled or smoked tongue, tongue, and and line line them them with Game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEA T). Fill Fill with a a salpicon salpicon of of game to to which which truffies trumes and mushrooms mushrooms have have been bcen added. added. Blend Blend with DemiDemiglace glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) based based on on concentrated concentrated game game stock. Serve with with demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauce basd based on concentrated game game

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stock. Polish valesniki. vALESNIKIS VALESNIKIS poloNArs POLONAIS - To 125 125 g. (4 oz., oz., Polish add 125 t cup) white white pressed pressed cream cheese, add 125 g. (4 oz., oz., *i cup) cup) well-softened well-soflened butter. butter. Season with with salt, pepper pepper and and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Add I1 egg egg and mix mix well. weil. Divide Divide into into portions portions of of 50 50 to to 75 75 g. (2 to to 33 oz.). oz.). Put Put each portion portion on on a small, thin, thin, unsweetened unsweetened pancake pancake @rApe). (crêpe). Fold over and and dip in butter. butter. Deep-fry Deep-fry in in very very hot hot fat, fat, drain, and sprinkle sprinkle with with fine fine salt. Garnish Gamish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Lithuanian Lithuaman vareniki. vareniki. vlnfNxn VARÉNIKlS LrruANrnl.rs LITUANIENS - Chop Chop aa large finely and cook in butter. butter. When When it has has turned turned aa large onion finely golden golden colour colom add add 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) raw raw fillet fillel of of beef beefand and 125 g. (4 (4 oz.) raw, raw, finely finely chopped beef beef kidney kidney fat. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Brown Brown the the meat, meat, blend blend with with 2 tablespoons spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thick Bicharnel Béchamel sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add I1 tablespoon tabJespoon choppd chopped parsley. parsley. Make Make aa noodle noodle paste paste (see (sec NOODLES, NOODLES, Fresh Fresh noodles). noodles). Cut into 6 cm. into squares squares of of6 cm. (2f (2i inches) inches) and and put put in in the Ihe middle middle of of each each square square a portion portion of of the the above above mixture mixture as as for for ravioli. ravioli. Poach Poach these vareniki vareniki in in salted boiling boiling water water for 15 15 to to 18 18 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, put put in in aa dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melled butter. butter.

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HORSE HORSE BLICIIERY. BUT CHERY. rnppopuAclE HIPPOPHAGIE

The The slaughter slaughter of of

America. America. For For aa very very long long time time the the Teutons, Teutons, too, 100, lived lived on on horsemeat, horsemeat, and and continued continued to to do do so so until until their their conversion conversion to to Christianity. Christianity. The The people people of of Paris Paris have have always always eaten eaten horsemeat, horsemeat, in in spite spi te of of numerous numerous eighteenth-century eighteenth-century police police ordinances ordinances forbidforbidding ding its ils sale sale in in the the hope hope of of 'preventing 'preventing those those diseases diseases which which the the consumption consumption of of such su ch meat meat cannot cannot fail fail to to induce'. induce'. In In spite spi te of of the the fact fact that that horsemeat horsemeat was was in in use use during during the the critical critical revolutionary revolutionary period, period, the the order order prohibiting prohibiting its its sale sale was was rereenacted enacted in in 1803, 1803, and and again aga in in in l8ll. 1811. There There followed followed special special orders orders permitting perrnitting the the use use of of horsehorsemeat meat as as animal animal food, food, especially especiaJly for for the the animals animaIs in in the the zoo. zoo. The The interdict interdict was was finally finally revoked revoked about about 1830. 1830. This This followed followed reports reports by by Parmentier Parmentier and and Parent-Duchatelet, Parent-Duchatelet. arising arising out out of of the the publicly publicly expressed expressed views views of of Baron Baron Larrey, Larrey, who who had had used used horsemeat horsemeat extensively extensively to to feed feed his his wounded wounded men men during during the the Napoleonic Napoleonic wars. wars. After After the the battle battle of of Eylau, Eylau, being being entirely entirely cut cut off off from from supplies supplies on on the the Isle Isle of of Lobau, Lobau, he he made made soup soup of of itit in in the the breastplates of of the the dismounted dismounted cavalry, cavalry, and and seasoned seasoned itit with with breastplates gunpowder gunpowder in in place place of of salt. salt. More More provident provident than than the the rest, rest, he he had had kept kept aa little little salt salt for for himself, himself, and and was was thus thus able able to to invite invite Marshall Marshall Mass6na Masséna to to share share his his hotpot. hOlpol. At At the the instigation instigation of of Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, Geoffrey-Saint-Hilaire, there there folfollowed propaganda campaign campaign in in favour Cavour of of horsemeat. horsemeat. This This lowed aa propaganda was was crowned crowned with with success success when when on on 6 6 February February 1865, 1865, aa horsemeat horsemeat banquet banquet was was held held at at the the Grand Grand Hotel. Hote!. In In the the following following year, year, on on 99 July, July, another another horsemeat horsemeat banquet banquet took took place place at at the the establishment establishment of of Lemardelay, Lemardelay, a a Paris Paris horse horse butcher. butcher. Since then, then, horsemeat horsemeat has has become become more more and and more more popupopuSince

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--

horses horses for for human human consumption. consumption. Horseflesh, Horseflesh, forbidden forbidden in in Mosaic Mosaic law, law, was was eaten eaten from from time time immemorial immemorial in in Tartary Tartary and and northern northern lands. lands. For For centuries centuries itit has has been been the the principal principal food food of of the the Gaucho Gaucho Indians Indians of of South South

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HYSSOP potch. potch. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Oxtail Oxlail en en

lar, lar, and the the number number of of horse horse butchers butchers has has greatly greatly increased. increased. A variety of of recipes recipes for beef beef (q.v.) (q.v.) can be be used used for horsehorsemeat. meal.

HORSE CHESTNUT. CHESTNlJT. HORSE

hochepot). hochepot).

The The French French hochepot hochepot may may be be derived derived from from the the verb verb

hocher, hocher, to shake. Meats Meats of of various various kinds kinds cooked in in a sauce sauce thern from sticking. are'shaken' are 'shaken' in the the pot pot to to prevent preventlhem slicking. Hotcbpotch soup Hotch-potch (Scottish cookery) - Scottish national soup

MARRoN MARRON D'INDE - Seed Seed fruit, fruit. very

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ri ch in starch. Once Once the acid has has been been extracted from l'rom it, the the rich can be be made into flour suitable for human human horse chestnut can consumption. consumption.

prepared prepared as follows. follows. Put Put in in a a stewing stewing pot pot I1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton and and I1 kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) rump of of beef. beef. Cover with with cold co Id water water and bring bring it it to the boil. Remove Remove scum, add salt, and and simmer simmer for 2 hours. hours. Put a celeriac celeriac cut cul into inlo quarters quarters into inlo the Ihe pot, add I1 small cabbage, cabbage, I1 large onion with with 2 cloves, the the pot, add white part of of 4leeks tied in a bundle, bundle, 2 turnips,4 turnips, 4 carrots carroL~ and and white part a clove of of garlic. Simmer together for 35 minutes. Add Add 200 200 g. g. (7 oz.,l| oz., 1* cups) cups) potatoes potaloes cut eut into pieces, pieces, 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., Jt cup) cup) diced (6 tablespoons) fresh fresh diced French French beans, beans, 5 5 tablespoons (6 cut into white beans, aa lettuce cut into quarters, quarters, and and a a handful handful of of fresh peas. peas. Cook Cook all ail these these ingredients together on aa low heat. heat. HUSK. HUSK. cRUAU GRUAU -- The part part of the wheat wheat encasing the grain. It It is the most nourishing part and the richest in part of of the wheat and gluten. The husk In the gluten. The husk is is also the toughest toughest part part of of the wheat. wheat.ln first t'irst stage stage of of milling it it is very very coarsely coarsely ground. ground. At At the second grinding, ground finer grinding. the tbe husks busks are ground t'iner to produce produce wholemeal flour from which wholemeal bread is made. grain by aa The outer casings of of oats, oats. separated from from the grain (Oat husks special milling are also also called called husks. special milliog process, process, are husks. (Oat of bread.) When the husks are cannot be used used in the making making of grain is smoothed removed from barley and and the grain smootheJ it it becomes pearl barley. The French word for for husk, gruau, is also given to a very pasta, made from small pasta, ~rom potatoes, potatoes, which looks like sago.

HORSE PARSLEY. MACERoN MACERON - Herbaceous plant plant of the strong aromatic aromatic umbelliferous group. group. This This herb herb has has a a strong umbelliferous fragrance similar to that that of parsley. It grows wild wild by the especially in cool and shady shady places. roadside and in ditches, especially corn mon horse horse parsley parsley is fairly prolific pralific in the south of of The common this plant former times, the root root of ofthis plant was eaten. The France. In former as a lcaves of the horse parsley are used in cooking as tender leaves substitute for parsley. parsley. substitute

HORSERADISH. HORSERADISH. nlnonr RAIFORT - Plant originating 06ginating in the East, East, growing growing both wild and cultivated. cultivated. Its 115 cylindrical root, root, brown sharp and piqirant outside, white inside, has a sharp piquant flavour and a as a condivery penetrating penetrating smell. This root is used grated as condicalled favourite in in Germany Germany (where it it is is cal/ed ment. It is aa great favourite of dishes. accompanies a wide range of 'German mustard') mustard') and accompanies butters. Compound huI/ers. BUTTER, Compound Horseradish butter -- See BUTTER, clNlpfs DE Canapés horseradish ài I'anglaise. l'anglaise. CANAPÉS DE RAIFoRT RAIFORT Canapes of horseradish slices of of black bread with butter r'ANcr^lls -- Spread thin slices À L'ANGLAISE A chives have and chopped chives to which which English mustard and have been English mustard to and surround with a added. added. Cover with grated horseradish and hard-boiled egg yolks. border of chopped, hard-boiled nApf -- Wash and and peel aa root RAIFoRT RÂPÉ Grated horseradish. RAIFORT an horshorseradish. Grate on on aa cheese-grater. Serve in an of horseradisb. d'uuvre dish as aceompaniment accompaniment to boiled meat or cold meat. d'œuvre roeal. AU RAfFOR RAIFoRT sAUcE Albert sauce (hot). SA Horseradish Horseradish sauce or Albert UCE AU T grated horseradish 4 teaspoons DITE teaspoons grated DIrE ALBERT-SAUCE ALBERT-sAUcE -- Cook 4 Add 21 2t dl. dl. ($ pinto pint, scant cup) white white consommé. consomm6. Add scant cup) in 22 dl. dl. Ü in (see SA (scant 1 generous cup) SAUCE). cup) Buller Butter sauce II (seant Il (sec UCE). I pint, generous yolks. Add Add 1I teaBind with with 22 egg egg yolks. sieve. Sind Boil down and and sieve. Boil down spoon mustard blended with 2 teaspoons wine vinegar. Serve with boiled or braised beef. grated RAIFoRT -- Mix grated sAUcE AU RAIFORT Horseradish sauce (cold). SAUCE and squeezed horseradish with breadcrumbs soaked in milk and cream and and Add thick thick cream sugar. Add and sugar. with salt salt and dry. dry. Season Season with vinegar.

from honey, used by A drink drink made HYDROMEL -- A HYDROMEL made l'rom honey. much much used solution of of Plain hydromel the Greeks Greeks and and Romans. Plain the hydromel is is aa solution (mead) is the result of of the honey in water. Vinous hydromel hydromel (mead) diluted with with t'ive five limes times its of honey alcoholic fermentation fermentation of alcoholjc honey Jiluted of 11 11" to to 13°. l3'. It has an alcoholic alcoholic content of volume of water. lt has an following recipe: Hydromel may be made according to the following Hydromel (22 gallons, 271 gallons) water 27t gallons) to 50°C. 50'C. Heat 100 litres (22 Heat 100 litres water ta (110 lb.) honey. (122"F.) Add 50 kg. (1 22 F.) in aa copper kettle. AdJ kg. (110 the water of the raise the the temperature of Gradually raise water to to boiling into point, taking care liquid constantly. Pour Pour into to skim skim the liquid care to point, quite cold, transfer 10 is quite to a vat and and leave to cool. When itit is aa vat Draw for 55 to 66 weeks. Draw must be left to ferment for barrel where it must hydromel. the hydromel. off the It can aiso also he be used from hydromel. It Spirits can can be distilled distilled from Spirits in the the manufacture manufacture of vinegar. in 0

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jewel of hospital - a jewel of HOSPICE DE BEAUNE -- The Beaune hospitalRolin, Nicolas Rolin. 1443 by Nicolas was founded in 1443 Gothic architecture -- was Bon. chancellor to the Duke of Burgundy, Philippe le Boo. is the result result of The vinicultural district district called the Hospices is in is situated in charitable charitable donations donations made to the hospital, and is de Beaune. C6te de one of of the best regions of the Côte Hospices wines wines lakes takes public auction the Hospices auction of of the The Camous famous public The all over over the world, come from aU place every every November. Buyers come honour-bound to themselves honour-bound wiliJe while restaurateurs consider themselves although 'Hospice because allhough vat of of Hospices wine because purchase aa vat contr6lie,the appellation contrôlée, not boast special appellation Beaune'does boastaa special de does nol the de Beaune' lustre. gives the added lustre. an added the wine an alone gives name alone

for measuring Instrument for HYDROMETER. AR.EOMÈTRE mfolvrirnn -- Instrument HYDROMETER. principally used Hydrometers are principally used for the comparison comparison density. Hydrorneters density. and variable volume. densities at aa constant weight and of liquid densities placed in liquid under in the the liquid These instruments, on being being placed instruments, on These graduated stems, simple reading of their graduated by a simple examination, bya givur temperature. Special Special tables for aa given show the the density density for show operating at at aa to be made when operating necessary adjustments enable necessary adjustments ta enable There are are many of of these these instruments instruments different temperature. temperature. There different (syrup gauge, gauge, salinometer, salinometer, acidimeter, acidimetern alcoholoin existence (syrup ln centesimal alcoholomeler alcoholometer Only the the Gay-Lussac etc.). Only meter, etc.). Gay-Lussac centesimal meter, France. legal in in France. isis legal

HocltEpor - This This isis aa corruption corruption of of the the HOTCH-POTCH. HOCHEPOTHOTCH-POTCH. pigs' ears givan in ears fatty broth from pigs' broth made from in France France to to aa fatty name given of mullan. mutton, salt salt and shoulder shoulder of and tails, tails, breast of of beef, breast and and carrots, vegetables, mainly cabbage. cabbage, carroIs, and mixed mixed sliced sliced vegetables, bacon, and (See SOUPS, potatoes. (See Hochepot àd la Ia SOUPS, Hochepot onions, leeks leeks and and potaloes. onions, flamande.) flamande.) called aa hotchstew which which isis called oxtail stew There isis also spiced oxtail There also aa spiced

pungent aromatic plant with aromatic with aa pungent Small plant HysopE -- Small HYSSOP. HYSOPE It is used in in the the distillation distillation flavour. lt smell and and aa slightly slightly bitter flavour. smell particular, in in the the composition composition of of In particular, liqueurs. ln of liqueurs. of aa number of of the elixir elixir of of Grande-Chartreuse. Grande-Chartreuse. the

489 489

IBEX. BOUQUETIN Bouer.rrrrN -- A A type goat which type of of wild wild goat which lives lives in in the the IBEX. high mounlains. mountains. It It isis becoming becoming increasingly increasingly rare rare in in Europe. Europe. high

glace, bon Point de de glace, bon Dieu Dieu 1! Dans Dans le le fort de /'I'6tb, Point été, fort de juin ... Au mois mois de de juin ... Au 'The worst worst ofdisasters. of disasters. But who who would would have have thought il? it? 'The 'In spite spite of of the the heat, heat, we we had had no no ice. ice. 'In 'No ice, good God! ice, good At the height of God! At of the summer, summer, 'No 'In the the month month of June..... . .' of June 'In At the the end end of of the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, the manufacture of of iees ices At developed considerably, considerably, especially especially in in Paris. This was was the age developed which saw saw the the invention invention of of the the ice ice bombe. bombe. Il It was was soon soon the the which custom to glacie at to serve serve aa bombe bombe glacée at the the end end of of any any fonnal formal custom palaismeal, and the the savouring savouring of of ices ices at at the cafes of of the the Palaismeal, and the cafés Royal had this time become fashionable. Royal had by by this During the the period of the First Empire, Empire, thanks thanks to to the During period of the Fust Italian ice cream manuflacturers, Italian ice eream manufacturers, of whom there were were many in ice cream and water ices of of various kinds improved improved in Paris, Paris. iee still further quality. Ices still further in in quality. lces began to to be be made from aa basic mixture of egg egg yolks syrup, which led to the creation of mixture of yolks and syrup, more more elaborate elaborate sweets. These took took the place of cylindrical ice cream blocks blocks at at formal formaI dinners. ice cream Pratti Tortoni became Pratti and and Tortoni became famous famous for the delicacv de1icaey of of their ices. ices. Under Under the the Second Empire Empire the'surprise the 'surprise omelette', omelette', somesometimes times called called omelette omelelle d à la la norvigienne, norvégienne, was was invented. This This remarkable remarkable sweet, sweet, with with a centre of of cold fruit fruit and and ice ice cream and and a a hot hot crust crust of of meringue meringue browned browned in in the the oven, oyen, was was cleverly cleverly devised devised to to produce produce a gastronomic gastronomie paradox, paradox, aa ball bail of ice ice in in a a piping piping hot hot casing. casing. (See (See EGGS, EGGS, Omelette Omelelte d à la norvigienne.) Under the the Second Second Empire, Empire, too, too, coupes, coupes, norvégienne.) Under mousses, mousses, and, and parfaits parfaits were were first tirst made. made. The The manufacture manufacture of of ices, ices, sherbets and and ice ice creams creams has has developed developed into into an an industry industry of of some sorne magnitude magnitude being, being, as as itit is, is, an an important important outlet out let for for agricultural agricultural dairy dairy produce, produce, eggs eggs and and fruit. fruit. The The enormous enormous advances advances made made by by the the refrigeration refrigeration industries industries have have resulted resulted in in much much improved improved. methods methods of of manufacture, manufacture, conservation conservation and and distribution. distribution. Domestic Domestic appliances, appliances, too, too, have have been been considerably considerably improved. improved. The The manufacture manufacture of of ice ice cream cream products, products, now now mainly mainly automatic, automatic, isis carried carried out out under under strictly strictJy hygienic hygienic conditions. conditions. Electrically-operated Electrically-operated ice ice cream cream freezers freezers are are available available for for domestic domestic use. use. General General method method for for the the preparation preparation of ofices ices-- UsW Using aa churn churn Having prepared prepared the the appropriate appropriate mixture mixture (for (for syrup syrup freezer. Having freezer. ice ice or or cre:lm eream ice), iee), pour pour itit into into aa metal metal freezer freezer lodged lodged in in aa bucket bucket containing containing layers layers of of chipped chipped ice, ice, salt salt and and saltpetre. saltpetre. This This mixture mixture should should be be well well pressed pressed down down in in the the bucket. bucket. Replace Replace the the lid lid and and start star! toto churn, ch urn, continuing continuinguntil until freezing freezing isis accomplished. accomplished.

ICE. crecs -- Water Water in in ils its solid solid state. state. lce Ice used used in in conjunction conjunction ICE. GLACE with food food oughl yield drinking ought 10 to yield drinking water water when when melted. melted. To To with analyse the ice, wash a cube with distilled water and melt it. analyse the ice. wash a cube with distilled water and mell it. Test as for drinking water. Test as for drinking water.

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. GLACES cLAcEs -- Flavoured Flavoured iees ices have have ICE been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally been made since the very earliest times, and it is generally recognised that that the Arabs and and the the Chinese Chinese knew knew the the art art of of recognised the Arabs making iced iced sweets, sweets, especially especially water (sherbets). The water iees ices (sherbets). The making Chinese, it is said, said, taught art of of ice ice cream cream making making to to the the Chinese, it is taught the the art

Indians, Persians and and the Arabs. Indians, the the Persians the Arabs. Ice ereams creams and and water were introducod lce water ices iees were introduced into into France France procopio. Some about the the year 1660 by by aa Sicilian, Sicilian, Francisco Francisco Procopio. about year 1660 Sorne years ten opened a caf1 in in Paris, des ten years later la ter he he opened a café Paris, in in the the rue rue des Foss6s-Saint-Germain (now the rue de I'Ancienne-Com6die). Fossés-Saint-Germain (now the rue de l' Ancienne-Coméd ie). It (who had It was was here here that that Procopio Procopio (who had changed changed his his name name to to the the more Gallic-sounding Procope) Procope) sold more Gallic-sounding sold variously variously flavoured flavoured ice ice creams and water ices to the Parisians, who acquired a taste creams and water ices to the Parisians, who acquired a taste for for these these sweets, sweets, still still aa novelty novelty to to them. them. procope's Other Other Parisian Parisian limonadiers limonadiers quickly quickly followed followed Proeope's example, and soon there were so many of them thet,rn 1676, example, and soon there were so many of them that, in 1676, il was was necessary necessary to to give give statutory statutory recognition recognition to to their their corporation corporation and and to to authorise authorise its ilS members members officially officially to to sell sell ice iee creams and water ices. It is said that there were in paris, at crea ms and water iees. Jt is said that there were in Paris, at that time, that time, 250limonadiers 250 limonadiers who who were were selling selling ices. ices. Until Until about about the the middle middJe of of the the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, ices ices were only sold in Paris in the summer. In 1750, procope's were only sold in Paris in the summer. .In 1750, Procope's suc@ssor, Buisson, started making ices all the year round. successor, Buisson, started ma king ices al! the year round. His His competitors competitors at at once once followod followed suit. suit. But But the the ices ices were were of of poor quality. li was po or quality. It was not not until until 1776 1776 that that ices ices more more delicate delicate in in flavour began to to be be made. made. These These had had more more body body than than those those flavour began of of earlier earlier times tin1es and and could could be be moulded moulded into into different different shapes. shapes. ItIt was was about about this this time time thatfromages, thatfromages, as as well weil as as aa numbei number of of frozen desserts, were invented. Some of these are still made frozen desserts, were inven ted. Sorne of these are still made today. today. Although Although the the Romans Romans used used to to cool cool drinks drinks with with ice ice or or snow, this practice was not introduced into France until the snow, this practice was not introduced into France until the seventeenth century, and even then it was only adopted by seventeenth century, and even then il was only adopted by persons of great refinement. persons of great refinement. In In the the Dictionnaire Dictionnaire de de Monnet,1636, Monnel, 1636, the the word word glaciire glacière (ice (ice chest) does not even appear. Yet some forty years later the chest) does not even appear. Yet sorne forry years later the custom custom of ofdrinking drinkingiced iced wines wines was was so so general general in in France France that that any any departure departure from from itit was was much much frowned frowned upon, upon, ififone one may may judge from what Boileau says in his Repas ridicule: judge l'rom what Boileau says in his Repas ridicule: Mais Mais qui quil'aurait l'auraitpense? pense?Pour Pour comble comble de de disgrdce, disgrâce, Par chaudqu'il qu'ilfasait, fasait, nous nousn'avions n'avionspoint point de deglace, glace, Par Iele chaud

it

490 490

TCE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

hand-operated churn churn freezer freezer isis used used close close itit tightly. tightly. IfIfaa hand-operated Tum itit up up first first one one way way and and then then the the other other by by the the handle handle Turn attached to to the the lid. lid. This This operation operation throws throws some sorne of of the the attached mixture against against the the sides sides of of the the frqzer freezer so so that that itit solidifies. solidifies. mixture therefore necessary necessary from from time time to to time time to to scrape scrape the the sides sides ItItisistherefore of the the freezer freezer with with aa special special spatula spatula and and mix mix the the frozen frozen ice ice of During the the freezing freezing process, process, stir stir the the cream with with the the rest. rest. During cream mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly with with the the spatula spatula so so that that it it remains remains smooth and and creamy. creamy. smooth Using aa food food freezer. freezer. Ice !ce cream cream mixtures mixtures can can be be frozen frozen Using quickly and easily easily in in aa household household food food freezer. freezer. This This does does not not quickly and produce produce the the same sa me perfect perfect texture texture as as an an ice ice cream cream churn churn freezer, but but if if the the mixture mixture is is frozen frozen quickly quickly and and stirred stirred fre,ezer, frequently, satisfactory satisfactory results results can can be be obtained. obtained. frequently, Presentation of of ices ices - Ice lce cream cream and and water water ices ices can can be be Presentstion in many many different different ways. ways. They They can can be be shaped with with a presented in presented bali-scoop and and served served in in shells shells or or in in special special glasses, glasses, or or -- still ball-scoop shaped with with aa ball-scoop bali-scoop -- formd formed into into aa pyramid pyramid on a dish shaped napkin or or paper paper doyley. doyley. covered with with aa folded folded napkin covered ices can can also also be be transferred, transferred, after after Ice cream cream and and water ices Ice freezing, to to special special moulds moulds which which are conical in shape. shape. These freezing, are hermetically hermetically sealed and placed, placed, with their their contents, in a ice and and bucket where they are packed round with chopped ice bucket ensure that the the ices are are quite firm fion when they they are salt. To ensure salt. the moulds, mou Ids, they they should be left left in in the the ice should be turned out of the bucket for at least I1 hour. bucket over the out these ices, ices, run run cold water rapidly over cold water To turn out wann mould. Dip it for a second into warm water. This will warm sides. Tip the detach the ice from the sides. and detach the mould slightly slightly and carefully, leaving mould upside upside down on a dish and lift it up carefulIy, the ice the ice cream in the centre of the dish. way as as same way Ices can in the the same prepared in in small moulds in can be prepared those shaped shapod in large moulds. those Small moulds are available in a variety of shapes. When with butter. sealed with are sealed edges are their edges filled, their are filled, they are When they and They are ice and of crushed crushed ice are then pressed down into aa bucket of salt, ice cream cream moulds. salt, like other types of ice

Electric Electric churn churn freezer freezer 'Sirem' 'Sirem'

(Nicohs) (Nicolas)

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(generous 1 fruit. g. (generous I lb.) lb.) fruit. 500 g. fine every 500 sugar to fine sugar to every much as much mixture as Add to to this this mixture sieve. Add fine sieve. Rub Rub through through aa fine (This must must density. (This to the the right right density. required to to bring bring itit to water as as is water is required with aa saccharometer.) saccharometer.) tested with be tested be

cssences. and essences. liquam and with liqueurs ices Oavoured flavoured witb for ices Mxtrre for Mixture or liqueur or Add the the liqueur - Add (see SYRUP). Usually, SYRUP). Usually, syrup (see sugar syrup cold sugar desired to to coJd essence desired essence for every every required for liqueuris (6 tablespoons, scant+cup) tablespoons, scant 1I dl. (6 t cup) liqueur is required juice lemon juice A little little lemon quart) syrup. syrup. A generous quart) (scant quart, quart, generous litre (scant litre to this mixture. is added to is with flavoured with of ices ices flavoured ingredients of the basic basic ingredients These are are the These cherry Curagao, cherry cac6o, Curaçao, de cacao, Crdme de Armagnac, Crème anisette, Armagnac, anisette, liqueur. any other other liqueur. or any maraschino, or rum, maraschino, kirsch, rum, brandy, kirsch, brandy, possible whenever possible this mixture mixture whenever ices, this fruit ices, case of of fruit As in in the the case As register should register which should saccharometer, which with aa saccharometer, be tested tested with must be must 18" and and22'. between 18° between 22°. in aa (custarQ. GLACE m CRÈME cniw -- Place Place in cLAcE Àa LA mix0rre (custard). Ice cream cream mixture Ice yolks. l0bgg and 10 (l I oz., sugar and fine sugar g. (lI Ltcups) oz., I~ saucepan 300 300 g. cups) fine 'egg yolks. saucepan ribbon reaches ribbon until itit reaches spatula until with aa spatula mixture with this mixture Work this Work ribbon). like aa ribbon). (when itit drops spatula like off the the spatula drops off consistency (when consistency quart) generousquart) (If, pints, pints, generous litre (li little, 1I litre little by by little, Blend in in little Blend until itit stirring until the ststove, on the Cook on milk. Cook boiling milk. flavoured boiling flavoured ove, stirring to the theboil boilor or tocome come to beallowed allowed to not be must not the spoon. spoon. ItIt must coats the coats will curdle. curdle. mixture will the mixture the from Stir from bowl. Stir sieve into intoaa bowl. fineconical conical sieve Rub through through aa fine Rub quite cold. cold. until itit isisquite to time time until time to time (14oz., cups) 400g.g.(14 oz.,lf used isis400 commonly used The mixture most commonly mixture most The li;cups) quart) (lf pints, pints,generous generous quart) yolks to litre(li to11litre eggyolks and 88egg fine sugar sugar and fine producingaafirm, creamy firm, creamy good recipe, recipe,producing verygood Thisisisaavery milk. This milk. flavouring liquidflavouring addedaaliquid may be beadded which may towhich sweet, to not too toosweet, ice, not ice, risk without risk other) without orany anyother) (brandy, rum, Chartreuseor kirsch, Chartreuse rum, kirsch, (brandy, up making up andmaking lessmilk milkand using less itsconsistency. consistency.By ofspoiJing spoiling its of By using smoother ofsmoother icecream creamof anice cream,an freshcream, withfresh contentwith theliquid liquidcontent the beobtained. obtained. can be texture can texture fewer andfewer lesssugar sugarand byusing usingJess madeby iceisismade firmerice andfirmer drierand AAdrier ESSENCES AUx ESSENCES LrQr.JEuRS, AUX Ar.X LIQUEURS, GLACES AUX GLACES

cotrrICE MIXTURES. COMICE MIXTURES. WATER ICE AND WATER ICE CREAM CREAM AND pouR GLACES kinds: POSITIONS posITIoNs POUR three kinds: of three These are are of DIvERsEs -- These cLAcEs DIVERSES ices of water ices those preparation ofwater in the the preparation usod in base, used syrup base, with aa syrup those with with aa flavoured those with liqueurs; those or liqueurs; essences or fruit juices, essences with fruitjuices, flavourod with yolks, sugar and custard sugar and of egg egg yolks, mixture of from aa mixture made from base, made custard base, milk; base. mousse base. with aa mousse those with milk; and and those fruit the fruit Mixture Rub the FRtlITs -- Rub ALx FRUITS cu,cr AUX ices. GLACE fmit ices. for fruit Mixtrre for pur6e (peeled the purée to the Add to sieve. Add fine sieve. through aa fine (peeled if necessary) through if necessary) (4 cups thus Id sugar cups syrup (4 sugar syrup quantity of cold of co equal quantity an equal obtained an tlus obtained sugar and cooled) and and cooled) minutesand for 55 minutes water boiled boiled for cups water sugar and and 22 cups pur6e. add juice according fruit purée. of the the fruit nature of to the the nature lemon juice accordlng to add lemon Mix possible testing the testing the ice, where where possible on ice, ingredients on Mix ail all these these ingredients sugar Fruit saccharometer. Fruit with aa saccharometer. mixture with the mixture of the sugar content content of ices density standard density registering aastandard mixture registering made from from aa mixture ices are are made of to 22°. of 18° l8'to22". Fruit prepared thus: thus: beprepared mayalso also be Fruit ices ices may Pound (l I oz., cups) oz., I~lt cups) with300 300g.g.(lI mortar with Pound the fruit ininaamortar the fruit

Various forice icepuddings VariousmouJds mouldsfor Puddings (Dehil/erin. (Dehillerin.Phol. Phot.Larousse) Larousse)

creammoulds moulds Old-fashionediceicecream Old·fashioned

491 491

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE yolks. If, If, however, however, too too little little sugar egg yolks. sugar or or too too few few eggs eggsare are egg used, the the result result will will be be aadisappointingly disaopointingly tasteless tasteless mixture. mixture. used, In no no circumstances (11 oz., circumstances should should less less than than 300 300 g.g. (II oz., ltl{ In yolks be quantifine sugar sugar and cups) fine and 66 egg eggyolks be used. used. Even Eventhese thesequanticups) yield an good quality. quality. ties will will not not yield an ice ice of of good ties pArs ÀA BOMBE (bombe) mixture. Mousse (bombe) mixture. PÂTE BoMBE- - Make Make 1I litre litre Mousse (lt pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) syrup (220"F.). 104'C. (220°F.). syrup boiled boiled to to 104°C. (li yolla inin aadouble Put the and 32 the syrup syrup and 32egg egg yolks double saucepan saucepan on on the the Put stove over high fia flame. From time time to to time with aawhisk. whisk. over aa high time stir stir with stove me. From When the reaches the consistency ofthick themixture rub the consistency of thick cream, cream, rub When mixture reaches fine seive quitecold, through aa fine into aa bowl. seive into bowl. Whisk Whisk until until itit isisquite cold, itit through Add an frothy and when itit should should be be light, light, frothy and whitish whitish in in colour. colour. Add an when quantity of fruit liqueur or cream, and equal quantity of whipped whipped cream, and liqueur or fruit equal pur6e. purée. Keep in in aa stone porcelain container, stone or or porcelain place in container, and in aa and place Keep bucket of of ice ice without without salt, salt, or or in in the refrigerator. the refrigerator. bucket given below. Recipes for for aa number number of of different different ices ices are are given below. Recipes

juiceofof22lemons sugar. Add Addthe thejuice lemonsand andofof22oranges. oranges.Rub Rub sugar. throughaasieve. sieve. through Addtotothis this mixture mixture enough enough filtered filteredwater watertotobring the Add bringthe mixture totoaadensity densityof of16° 16"toto18° l8'(see mixture (see SUGAR). SUGAR). Tangerine ice. ice.GLACE cracrÀALA r,c,MANDARINE rr{lNpARrun- -Infuse peelof Infusethe Tangerine thepeel of (1+pints, pints,I~lJpints) tangerines inin7t pints)boiling 44 tangerines syrup. boilingsyrup. fi dl.dl.(l1juiceofof66tangerines, Whenthe themixture mixture isiscold, cold,add add the thejuice When tangerines,22 (Density:20° oranges and and1I lemon. lemon. Strain. Strain. (Density: oranges ° - - see 20"toto212lo see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) PLAIN ICE ICECREAMS. CREAMS.GLACES crlcrssrMprssA PLAIN SIMPLES À LA r,c,CRÈME cRitcAlnond ice icecream. cream.GLACES Almond cLAcEs AUX Ar.xAMANDES AMANDTs - - Add Addtoto1Ilitre litre ( lt pints, pints,generous generousquart) quart) boiled boiledmilk, (4oz., (li scant cup) milk,100 100g.E(4 oz.,scant cup) freshalmonds almondsand fresh and 55bitter almonds which been blanched bitteralmonds which have havebeenblanched pounded with and pounded with aa few few tablespoons and tablespoons water. water.Infuse Infuse for for2525 minutes. minutes. prepare custard Use to to prepare Use custard cream cream asasdescribed describedininthe thebasic basic recipe for for lce lce cream recipe creammixture. mixture. Freeze Freezethe icecream theice cream ininthe the usual usual way. way. Chocolate Chocolate ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcEAU AU CHOCOLAT cHocor,,lr - - Add Add250 250g.g. grated chocolate, (9(9 oz., 3 cups) o2.,3 cups) grated chocolate, dissolved pint, dissolved inin22dl. dl.(1-(} pint, (lf; pints, scant cup) pints, generous scant cup) water water to to 1I litre litre (Ii generous quart) quart)boiled boiled milk milk fiavoured flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. The chocolate The chocolate being beingsweet in itself, sweet in itself, only only250 250g.g.(9(9oz., oz., generous cup) generous cup) fine finesugar sugar should should be be used insteadof ofthe used instead thelarger larger quantities indicated quantities indicated in in the the basic basic instructions instructions for for lce cream lce cream mixture. mixture.

PLAIN FRUIT FRUIT ICES ICES WITH WITH AA SYRUP SYRUP BASE. BASE. GLACES GLAcEs PLAIN SIMPLES, AUX AIjX FRUITS, FRUITS, AU AU SIROPSIROP SIMPLES,

ice. GLACE cracn ÀA L'ABRICOT r'lnnlcor -- Equal quantities of Equal quantities fresh of fresh Apricot ice. juice of pulp or pur6e and apricot pulp or purée and syrup. syrup. The The juice lemons isis of 22 lemons apricot (scant quart, added to to every litre (scant quarto generous every litre generous quart) quart) of of this this added (Density: 18° mixture. (Density: l8'to 19'see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) mixture. to 19° - see cl.lcn ÀA LA r.l BANANE sA,NA,l.rE -- Proceed Proceed as as for fot Pineappfe Pineapple Banana ice. GLACE (sa below), using ice (see using syrup syrup and and banana pur6e. Add banana purée. Add lemon lemon ice juice. Flavour with kirsch or (Density: 20° or rum. rum. (Density: 20' to to 21° 21o -- see juice. see suGAR.) SUGAR.) ice. GLACE cucp AUX (scant pint, Arrx CERISES cERrsEs -- Soak Soak tI litre titre (scant pint, Cherry ice. cups) crushed 2{ cups) crushed stoned stoned cherries cherries for for 1I hour (siant hour in in } litre litre (scant 2* pint,t, 2! pounded kernels with 2| cups) syrup. syrup. Soak Soak pounded pin with the the cherries. cherries. juice and Add aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice and aa little little kirsch. Add kirsch. Rub Rub (Density: 20° through a fine fine sieve. sieve. (Density: 20" to through to 21 2lo° -- see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) Lemm ice. GLACE crncs AU AU CITRON crrRoN -- Soak Lemon Soak the the rind lemons rind of of 33 lemons h6urs in t litre (scant pint, 2i for 2 hours 2f cups) cups) cold cold syrup. syrup. Add Add the the juice juice of (and, if lemons (and, if desired, desired, the juice of 44 lemons the juice of 22 oranges). oranges). Strain. (Density: 21 21"° to 22° --se,e see SUG AR.) to22" SUGAR.) Melon ice. ice. GLACE cucs AU AU MELON MELoN -- Proceed as as for for Apricot Apricot ice, ice, using melon pulp rubbed through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Add Add aa little little brandy brandy to the mixture. mixture. Orange crlcs AÀ L'ORANGE Orange ice. GLACE r'oneNce -- Proceed as for Tangerine as for Tangerine l'ce (see below) with the peel and juice of 4 ice 4 to to 5 oranges oranges and and the the juice juice of 1I lemon. (Density: 20° to 21 20'to 21o° -- see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) pEclc -- Proceed as Peach ice. GLACE cr,tct A À LA u PÊCHE as for Apricot Apricot ice, ice, to 19° using peach pulp. (Density: 18° 18" to 19'-- see see SUGAR.) poms - Pound in Pear ice. cLAcE GLACE A À rA LA POIRE in aa mortar 500 g. 500 g. (18 cups)fine (18 oz.,2f oz., 2i-cups) fine sugar with 500 cored sugarwith peeled andcored 500 g. (18 oz.) peeledand pears stewed until very soft. Add the juice of aa lemon. Rub through through a sieve. sieve. Add Add enough enough filtered water to bring the sugar density to 21 22° (see SUGAR.) 21"° to 22' SUGAR.) Pineapple ice. cucs GLACE A À r',q.N,q,NAs L'ANANAS -- Soak jt litre (scant pint, Pineapple 2i cups) finely pounded pineapple (fresh 2| (fresh or or tinned) tinned) for fbr 22 equal quantity of of syrup. Add a little lemon hours in an equal lemon juice and kirsch. (Density: 18" 18° to 20'20° - see and see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) Plum ice. ice. cLAcE GLACE Aux AUX rRUNES PRUNES - Proceed as Plum as for Apricot ice, of plums. plu ms. using puree purée of using Raspberry ice. ice. crlcr GLACE A À L,c, LA FRA,r4norsts FRAMBOISE - Proceed Raspberry as for - Proceed as Strawberry ice (see below) below) using using crushed crushed raspberries. raspberries. Strawberry Redcurrant ice. crecr GLACE A À u LA cnosnnr.n GROSEILLE - Add Redcurrant I litre (scant pint" pin t, 2l 2i cups) cups) redcurrant redcurrant juice juice to an equal equal quantity of of syrup. Add only only a few few drops drops of lemon juice, as as the the fruit fruit is is acid Add enough. (Density: (Density: 19" 19° to 20'20° - see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) enough. Strawberry ice. ice. crAcs GLACE AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES - Add (scant Strawberry - preserved) f litre (scant pint, 2f 2* cups) cups) crushed strawberries (fresh or preserved) and pint, and the juice juice of of 22 lemons lemons and 2 oranges oranges to I litre litre (scant pint, 2i the pint,2t cups) cold co Id syrup. syrup. Sieve. (Density: 16' 16° to to l8o 18° -- see see SUGAR.) SUGAR.) cups) This ice ice may may also also be be prepared prepared as as follows: pound poundtogether This together kg. (2f (2i- lb.) lb.) strawberries strawberries and and 500 500 g. g. (18 oz., 2f 2i- cups) cups) fine fine I1 kg.

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Coffee (Debillot. Phol. Coffee ice ice cream cream (Debil/ol. Phot. Larousse) Larousse\

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Coffee Coffee ice ice cream. ,tu CAFÉ g. (2 cream. GLACE cLAcE AU car6 -- Infuse Infuse 50 50 g. oz.,l Q oz., cup) ground coffee cup) freshly freshly roasted roasted and (l| pints, pints, and ground coffee in in aa 1I litre litre (li generous quart) quart) hot, hot, boiled milk for for 25 boiled milk 25 minutes. minutes. Use Use this this to to prepare the the cream cream according according to to the the basic instructions for for basic instructions /ce It can Ice cream cream mixture. mixture.It can also also be be made made by adding to milk by adding to the the milk 22 dl. (* pint, scant dl. (1scant cup) cup) very very strong strong liquid liquid coffee. coffee. Hazelnut VELINES - Proceed as Hazelnut ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcE AUX AUx AAvELTNEs as for for - Proceed Afmond Almond ice ice cream, cream, substituting substituting for g. (4 (4 oz., for the the almonds almonds 100 100 g. oz., 1I cup) pounded hazelnuts. cup) slightly slightly roasted, roastedo pounded hazelnuts. Pistachio prsrAcHE - Pound Pistachio ice ice cream. cream. GLACE cr.lcr ÀA LA LA PISTACHE together - Pound together 75 g. blanched pistachio g. (3 (3 oz., pistachio nuts oz., t~ cup) 75 cup) blanched g. (1 (l oz., nuts and and 25 25 g. oz, 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) blanched blanched fresh almonds. While pounding, fresh almonds. While pounding, add aa few few tablespoons add tablespoons milk. milk. pints, generous Infuse in in 1I litre litre (Ii (l| pints, Infuse generous quart) quart) boiling boiling milk. milk.

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492 492

ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES

Hazelnut am (Lar ous se) Hazelnut ice ice cre cream (Larousse)

Vanilla Vanilla and and strawberry strawberry ice ice cream cream (Debillot. (DebilJol. Phot. Phol . Iarousse) Larousse)

lmond for A cream. cLAcE Walnut Walnut ice icecream. GLACE lux AUX Nox NOIX -- Proceed proceed as as for Almond 100 g. ice ice cream,using cream, using 100 g. (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) cup) pounded pounded walnuts. walnuts. sANs cookery). cLACD eggs (American Ice Ice cream without without eggs (American cookery). GLACE SANS the litre (lf pints, oEUFs OEUFS -- Boil Boil 1I litre pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk milk with with the g. (9 cup) fine oz., generous and 250 of cream cream and same sa me quantity quantity of 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) fine (2 oz., Rub thiough g. (2 cup) cornflour. oz., It cup) 50 g. sugar. Bind with with 50 cornflour. Rub through

Use to to prepare prepare the the cream cream according according to to the the basic basic instructions instructions Use /ce cremn cream mixture. mixture. for lce Pound Plombières ice ice cream. cream. cLAcE GLACE PLoMBIiREs PLOMBIÈRES Plombilres

300 g. (ll (II oz., 2 cups) blanched fresh thoroughly in a mortar 300 (l o2.,3 almonds and 25 g. g. (1 oz., 3 tablespoons) blanchbd blanchèd bitter almonds and 25 (2| pints, 1+ litres (21 Moisten with with a little little milk. Add li almonds. Moisten

(li

2i

often. cool, stirring stirring often. it cool, a hair hair sieve. Let it coffee, orange zest, zest, coffee, lemon or or orange with vanilla, Flavour with Flavour vanilla, lemon way. Freeze in in the the usual etc. Freeze chocolateo liqueurs, etc. chocolate, usual way.

pints) cream. 2fr pints) cream. mixture down in the strainer to extract Strain, pressing pressing the mixture ail the milk. all (l I oz., oz., 1| Stir I~ cups) Stir 10 egg yolks thoroughly with 300 g. (II fine sugar in aa saucepan. saucepan. Add the milk to this mixture. Heat as for for Custard on the stove without to the the boil, boiJ, as without bringing to on the (see CREAMS). and stir stove Remove from from the the st cream ove and CREAMS). Remove creem (see in aa sieve. Freeze in vigorously for Rub through aa sieve. for 3 minutes. Rub churn time to to time time with with aa spatula. from time freezer, stirring stirring from churn freezer, (l pint, 2i partly frozen, add 6 dl. 2| cups) dl. (1 When the mixture is partly mixture is freezing process. whipped cream. the freezing cream. Continue the immerse the freezer Drain off any water in in the bucket and immerse and salt salt and and leave once more. with ice ice and more. Coyer Cover itit completely with for 2 hours. hours. and arrange in aa Scoop with a bali-scoop ball-scoop and cream with out the ice cream Scoop out Pour aapricot pyramid on pyramid pricot with aa folded napkin. Pour on aa dish dish covered covered with jam over jam over the the ice ice cream. cream. proMslinns AUX A,Lx Chestnut cLAcE PLOMBIÈRES ice cream. Plombilres ice cream. GLACE Chestnut Plombières (made pur6e (made (9 oz., g. (9 cup) chestnut chestnut purée MARRONS oz.,l1 cup) MARRoNs -- Mix Mix 250 250 g. (l| pints, pints, litre (li with 1I litre from in milk) milk) with cooked in from skinned skinned chestnuts chestnuts cooked (see CREA Rub MS). Rub ger..erous CREAMS). generous quart) quart) hot uecan (see hot Custard Custard cream through firm and and smooth, smooth, Freeze. When When itit isis finn sieve. Freeze. fine sieve. through aa fine (scant pint, pint, 2i cream, and and 55 whipped cream, mix 2t cups) cups) whipped titre (scant in f litre mix in tdblespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino. tablespoons (6 tablespoons) maraschino. leave Put Id and mould and leave ice cream cream mou cylindrical ice this mixture mixture in in aa cylindrical Put this in hours. for It l| hours. in the the ice ice bucket bucket for prulnu6 -- Add litre Add to to 1I litre Praline cLAcE AU lu PRALINÉ Praline ice ice cream. cream. GLACE prepared as as (li (l| pints, quart) vanilla custard cream, cream, prepared pints, generous generous quart) vanilla custard (see below), described below), Vanilla ice ice cream crearn (see for Vanil/a recipe for in the the recipe described in pounded (q.v.) ofburnt 125 (4 oz., praline (q.v.) g. (4 of burnt almonds, almonds, pounded oz., ~t cup) 125 g. cup) praline grinder. put through and through aa grinder. sieve or or put and rubbed rubbed through through aasieve The hazelnuts, walnuts, walnuts, for burnt burnt hazelnuts, The same used for same method method isis used pistachio peanuts. pistachio nuts nuts or or peanuts. Tea cream in in the the the cream lu THÉ rr$ -- Prepare Prepare the ice cream. cLAcE AU Tea ice cream. GLACE ( l| pints, I~ pints) milk milk and and usual lJ pints) dl.(Itpints, mixture of of 7i usual waywith way with aa mixture fi dl. 33dl. (+pint, tea. pint, li strained tea. verystrong, strong, strained dl. (t 1| cups) cups) very preparation of icecreams The ofice creams for the used for the preparation Thesame same method method isis used flavoured verbena infusions. peppermint, lime-flower infusions. lime-flower or or verbena flavoured with with peppermint, for the the VaniJIa asfor rn VANlLLE vamr,rn - - Proceed Proceed as Vanilla ice cLAcE ÀALA icecream. crem. GLACE pod vanilla pod am mixture, basic whichaavanilla milk inin which using milk basicIce lcecre crearn mixture, using of has tablespoonof minutes,or ortotowhich which11tablespoon for20 20 minutes, hasbeen beeninfused infusedfor vanilla added. vanilla extract extract has hasbeen beenadded.

bombes former times, times, bombes In former cl-,c,c6Es -- In BoMBES GLACÉES BOMBE ICES. BOMBES were and were mixtures and ice cream cream mixtures or ice ice or water ice of water were made made of were got their name. their name. is how how they they got This is spherical moulds. This shaped in spherical flavour, being being in fiavour, more delicate delicate in ices are are more Nowadays, bombe ices the (bombe) mixture in the describod in mixture described Mousse (bombe) from the the Mousse made from made above. basic recipes above. mixice cream cream mixdifferent ice two different of two be made made of should be A bombe bombe should A plain ice (this is cream ice cream is usually usually aa plain mould ~this the mould line the one to line tures. one tures, made casing, made fills the the casing, which fills other, which ice), the the other, water ice), fruit or or water or aa fruit in conical conical made in (bombe) mixture. Bombes are are made mixture. Bombes Mousse (bombe) from Mousse from lids, with tight-fitting tight-fitting lids, top, with the top, at the rounded at sligbtly rounded moulds, mou Ids, slightly left be left They should should be butter. They with butter. sealed with hermetically sealed are hermetically and are and hours. salt for for 22 hours. and salt in ice ice and to stand stand in to Fill with with ice. Fill with Tangerine Tangerirc ice. mould with the mould Line the Aida -- Line Bombe Aida Bombe kirsch. and kirsch. with vanilla vanilla and (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured Mousse (bombe) Mousse bombe Line the the bombe ArcfRIsNItIE -- Line BoMBE ALGÉRIENNE bombe. BOMBE Algerian bombe. Aigerian which Pineapple ice, ice, to to which with Pineapple Fill with ice. Fill Tangerine ice. mould witli wi$i Tangerine mould have been been in kirsch kirsch have pineapple steeped steeped in pieces of ofcrystallised pieces crystallised pineapple added. added. ice cream. cream. Vanilla ice with Vanilla mould Line the Alhambra -- Line Bombe Alhambra the mou Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture. mixture. Mousse (bombe) with strawberry-flavoured strawberry-flavoured Mousse Fill with Fill large strawstrawwith large bombe with the bombe surround the out, surround After turning turning out, After kirsch. in kirsch. steeped in berries steeped berries with the mou mould Line the lrrdnrclrNe- Line BoMBE AMÉRICAINEAmericanbombe. Id with American bombe. BOMBE (bombe) mixture flavoured mixture flavoured Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse ice. Fill Strawberry ice. Strawberry icecream cream with Pistachio Pistachio ice bombe with thebombe Decorate the with tangerine. tangerine. Decorate with put through forcing-bag. through aaforcing-bag. put APRICOT. See APRICOT. bombe -- See Apricot bombe Apricot Vanilla ice ice wfth Vanilla the mould mould with Line the Bombe Bourdaloue Bonrdaloue -- Line Bombe with (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture fiavoured Mousse (bombe) Fill with with Mousse cream. Fill cream. violets. with crystallised crystallised violets. thebombe bombewith Decorate the anise. Decorate anise. flavoured icecream cream fiavoured with ice mould with Line the the mould cardinal - Line BombecardinalBombe Mousse vanilla Mousse Fill with with vanilla raspberry. Fill andraspberry. strawberry and with strawberry with praline. with praline. (bombe) mixture flavoured with mixture flavoured (bombe) ice. Apricotice. with Apricot mouldwith Linethe themould Chateaubriand - - Line Bombe Chateaubriand Bombe vanilla, (bombe) mixture flavouredwith with vanilla, mixture flavoured Mousse(bombe) Fill with with Mousse Fill andsteeped (candied) apricots, steeped dicod and apricots,diced with crystallised crystallised(candied) mixedwith mixed kirsch. ininkirsch.

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493 493

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE Bombe dame-blanche dame-blanche -- Line Line the the mou mould withVanilla Vanillaice ice Bombe Id with (bombe) mixture cream. Fill Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with cream. almond milk. milk. almond Bombe dauphinoise dauphinoise -- Line Line the the mould mould with wth Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Bombe Fill with with whipped whipped cream cream flavoured greenChartreuse. flavoured with with green Chartreuse. FiJI Bombe diplomate diplomateLine the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanillaice icecream. cream. Bombe - Line Id with (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured maraschino, maraschino, Fill mixed with with crystallised crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in liqueur. liqueur. mixed Brimbe Doria Doria -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Pistachio Pistachia ice icecream. cream. BOmbe Fill with (bombe) mixture with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, Fill pieces of mixed with with pieces glacds (see of Marrons Marrons glacés (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) mixed steeped in in Curaçao. Curagao. steeped Bombe duchesse duchesse -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Pineapple Pineapple ice. ice. Fill Flll Bombe (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) with Mousse pearsand mixture flavoured flavoured with with pears and with kirsch. kirsch. Bombe Francillon Francillon -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Coffee Coffee ice icecream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with with fine fine Fill Champagne brandy. brandy. Champagne Bombe Gismonda Gismonda -- Line Line the the mould mould with with Praline Praline ice ice cream. cream. Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with Mousse (bombe) with Mousse mixture fiavoured flavoured with with aniseed, aniseed, Fill (q.v.) made praline (q.v.) and aa praline made from from filberts. filberts. and Bombe Grimaldi Grimaldi -- Line Line the the mou mould with Vanilla Vanilla ice ice cream. cream. Id with Bombe (bombe) mixture Fill with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture fiavoured flavoured with with kummel. kummel. Fill (candied) violets the bombe bombe with with crystallised crystallised (candied) violets and and Decorate the pistachio nuts. halved pistachio nuts. halved Bombe Héricart H6ricart -- Line Line aa large, large, shallow shallow mould mould with with Bombe (bombe\ mixture Strawberry ice. ice. Fill Flll with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured flavoured with Champagne Champagne brandy, brandy, with with whole whole strawberries strawberries from from with strawberryjam dotted about about here here and and there. there. jam dotted strawberry imp6ratrice-Line the mould with with Redcurrant the mould Redcurrant ice. Bombe impératrice-Line ice. Fill with with Rice Rice àd l'impératrice (see RICE) l'impdratrice (see RICE) mixed mixed with with diced diced Fill crystallised (candied) fruit steeped steeped in in liqueur. liqueur. Medicis -- Line Line the mould mould with with Pear Pear ice. rce. Fill Fill with Bombe Médicis with Mousse (bombe) mixture flavoured with peach, and pieces of and pieces of steeped in kirsch. peach steeped Bombe Monselet Monselet -- Line the mould mould with with Tangerine Tangerine ice. ice. Fill FIll mixture flavoured with port and with Mousse (bombe) mixture and mixed mixed with candied candied orange orange peel cut into little pieces and steeped steeped in with in Champagne brandy. Bombe Montmorency Montmorency-Line (see - Line the mould with kirsch ice ice (see the basic recipe ab above for ices ices flavoured with liqueurs). Fill ove for Fill mixture flavoured with cherry brandy, with Mousse (bombe) mixture mixed with cherries steeped in kirsch. cherries steeped Nelusko (bombe)mixture Nelusko icecream ice cream -- Mousse (bombe) mixture enclosed in aa layer of of ice cream cream flavoured with praline. Bombe Nesselrodeth Vanilla Nesselrode - Line the mould wi with Vanilla ice cream. (bombe) mixture Fill mixture to pur6e of Ell with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) to which which aa purée Marrons Marrons glacis glacés (see CHESTNUT) CHESTNUT) flavoured with kirsch has been added. added. Bombe Bombe mccis succès -- Line the mould with Apricor Apricot ice. ice. Fill with Chantilly Chantilly creern(see cream (see CREAMS) CREA MS) flavoured with with kirsch, mixed with with diced apricots. apricots. Bombe Bombe tutti-frutti tutti-frutti -- Line the mould with Strawberry ice. Fill FilJ with with Mousse Mousse (bombe) mixture mixture flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, and with of crystallised crystallised fruit steeped liqueur. with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of steeped in liqueur. Bombe Bombe V6ronique Véronique -- Line the the mould mould with Pistachio Pistachio ice ice cream. cream. Fill Fill with with chocolate-flavoured chocolate-flavoured Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture mixture mixed mixed with with diced diced candied orange peel peel steeped in Champagne brandy. brandy. Champagne

Preparation of Preparation wupes ofcoupes

The coupe The coupe Jacques may be Jacques may be regarded regardedas the classic as the classicsundae, sundae, (Seealso the model the model for for ail allothers. others.(See also SUNDAES.) SUNDAES.) Apricot coupe. Apricot coupe.COUPE coupE GLACÉE GLAcEE AUX AUx ABRICOTS ABRrcors - - Put Put22tabletable(3 tablespoons) spoons (or canned) spoons (3 tablespoons) fresh fresh (or canned) sliced sliced apricots, apricots, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, into into aaChampagne glassor Champagneglass ice cup. or ice cup. Top Top with with aa layer layer of of Apricot Apricot ice. rce.Smooth Smooth down down the thesurface. surface. Decorate Decorate with with half half an an apricot, apricot, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, and and halved, halved, blanched blanched almonds. almonds. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with aafew few drops drops of of kirsch. kirsch. Cherry Cherry coupe. coupe. COUPE cor.Jpr GLACÉE crlcfe AUX Ar.lx CERISES cERrsEs - - Put Put22 tabletable(3 tablespoons) spoons spoons (3 tablespoons) stoned stoned cherries cherries which which have have been been steeped steeped in in cherry cherry brandy brandy and and sugar sugar in in the the bottom bottom of of the theice ice cups. cups. Coyer Cover with with Cherry Cherry ice. ice. Decorate Decorate the the ices ices with with cherries cherries and and halved halved almonds. almonds. 1 ChamCoupe Coupe Crapotte. Crapotte. COUPE coupE GLACÉE cLAcEE CRAPOTTE cRAporrE -- Fil Fill Champagne pagne glasses glasses or or ice ice cups cups three-quarters three-quarters full full with with aa smooth smooth layer layer of of Peach Peach ice. ice. Arrange Arrange on on top mixture of top aa mixture of equal equal quantities of quantities alpine strawberries of alpine strawberries and previously raspberries, previously and raspberries, steeped steeped in in kummel kummel and and chilled. chilled. Coyer Cover the the fruit fruit with with aa layer layer of piped of whipped whipped cream cream piped through through aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with with aa fluted fluted nozzle. nozzle. Decorate the the top top with with blanched blanched almonds almonds and and crystallised crystallised violets. Coupe Coupe Jacques Fill Champagne glasses or Jacques -- Fill Champagne glasses or ice ice cups with cups with equal quantities of equal quantities of Lemon Lemon ice ice and and Strawberry Strawberry ice. ice. Put Pttt 1I tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh fruit fruit steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch in in the the middle. middle. Decorate Decorate with with crystallised crystallised cherries cherries and and halved halved almonds. almonds. Sprinkle Sprinkle aa few few drops drops of of kirsch on on top. top. Peach ptcnrs -- Put Peach coupe. coupe. COUPE corJpE GLACÉE cLAcfE AUX lux PÊCHES Put 1I tabletablespoon of aa salpicon (q. v.) of (q.v.) peaches, steeped of raw raw peaches, steeped in in liqueur, liqueur, in glasses or in Champagne Champagne glasses or ice ice cups. cups. Coyer Cover with with aa smooth smooth layer of Peach ice. ice. Place in the peach which Place in the centre centre aa ripe ripe peach which has has been peeled peeld and and chilled chilled on on ice. ice. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with kirsch kirsch or or any any other liqueur. SHERBETS A TER ICES. SHERBETS AND AND W WATER ICES. SORBETS soRBErs -- See See SHERSHERBETS. Gramolates -- A (see below) graniti (see A granité below) served served between between main main courses, like sherbets. sherbets. They are are also also served served as as refreshments refreshments in the the course course of of an an evening's evening's entertainment. entertainment. Granités -- These Granitds These ices, presented in ices, which which are are presented in special special glasses, are are made made from from fruit fruit syrups, glasses, syrups, with with aa density density of of not not 14° by the the syrup more than 14" syrup saccharometer. saccharometer. are frozen in a a churn chum freezer They are frozen in freezer or or deep deep freeze. freeze. Unlike Unlike other types of of ice, ice, they they are are not not stirred other stirred during during freezing. freezing. As As their name name suggests, suggests, granitis granités should their should have have aa somewhat somewhat granular texture. texture. granular MARQUISES cr,{cfps GLACÉES - Make Iced MarErises. Marquises. rralnqusss Iced from aa - Make from

ICED ICED COUPES COUPES or or SUNDAES. SUNDAES. coupns COUPES crlcfEs GLACÉES - These are - These are delicious composite composite sweet sweet with ice ice cream as as their main main aa delicious ingredient. They They are are served served in in glass glass or silver ice cups, and ingredient. for this this reason reason they they are are known known as as coupes coupes in in France. France. for The glasses glasses are are usually usually filled filled with with one one or or more more kinds kinds of of ice ice The cream and and decorated decorated on on top top with with fresh fresh or or crystallised crystallised fruit, cream or with with Chantilly Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). or Sundaes may may be be presented presented in in aa great great many many different different ways. ways. Sundaes 494 494

ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES Line Line the the moulds mou Ids with with wafers, wafers, sponge sponge fingers fingers steeped steeped in in liqueur liqueur as as for for aa Charlotte Char/Olle rrsse russe (see (sec CHARLOTTE), CHARLOTTE), or or with wilh finely finely sliced sliced Genoese Genoese cake cake cut cut into into thin thin strips. strips. Fill FiJI with with aa Mousse Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture. miXlure. The The pudding pudding can can be be made made more more attractive attractive by by using using different different coloured coloured layers layers of of variously variously flavoured flavoured ice iee cream cream for for the the filling. filling, It lt may may also also be be made made from from a a mixture mixture similar similar to to that Ihat used used in in a a Bavarian Bavarian

mixture mixture similar sirnilar to to that that used used in in the the preparationof preparation ofgranitisbxt granités but frozen frozen to ta aa somewhat somewhat stiffer stiffer consistency. consistency. ItIt isis flavoured flavoured with with kirsch kirsch and and should should register registcr 17' 17° on on the the syrup syrup saccharometer. saccharometer. Mix Mix in, in, for for I1 litre litre (If; (J~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) of of the the syrup, syrup, 44 dl. dl. (i Gpint, pint, scant scant 22 cups) cups) very very stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten Chantilly Chanlil/y cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) mixed mixed with with aa puree purée of of strawberries strawbcrries or or some sorne other fruit. fruit. Serve Serve in in glass glass goblets. goblets. other Iced {ceci prnch puncb iil la la romaine. romaine. puNcn PUNCH cr,lcf GLACÉ AÀ LA LA RoMAINE ROMAINE-Iced - Iced punch punch is served served between between main main courses, courses, like like sherbets sherbets and and granitds. granilés. To {î litre (scant (seant pint, 2Ln 2* cups) syrup syrup (density (density 22") 22°) add enough dry white wine or dry dry Champagne to to reduce reduee the the density to to 17o. 17°. Add to to this mixture mixture aa little little lemon lemon and orange orange density juice of rind and the 2 oranges lemons. Leave, thejuiee of2 oranges and and 33lemons. Leave, covered, covered, for I1 hour. houT. Strain Strain and bring bring to to a density density of l8'. 18°. Ice mixture in in a churn chum freezer freezer until until it is rather rather stiff. stiff. lee this titis mixture Add Add a quarter of of its its volume volume of of Italiot lIalian meringue meringue (see MIXMIXTURES), TURES), made made from from 2 egg cgg whites and 100 g. (4 oz., *1 cup) sugar. sugar. cup) Just Just before before serving, serving. mix mix in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I1cuP) sherbet. rum. Serve like sherbet. 20". When it is Spooms-sherbet with a sugar density of of 20°. Spoom - A sherbet frozen, Italian lla/ian meringue meringue (see MIXTURES) is added -- twice twiee sherbet. much as would wou Id be used used in an ordinary sherbet. as much Spooms are or wines are made made from from fruit fruit juices juices or wines such such as etc. They Champagne, muscatel, Frontignan, sherry, port, port, etc. like sherbets. are served in glasses, like

cream cream (q.v.). (q.v.). Ice lce puddings puddings are are frozen frozen with with aa great great deal deal of ofice iee or or placed placed in in a food food freezer. pouDING Icedprddfurycapucine. Iccd pudding capucine. POUDING crlc€ GLACÉ cApucINECAPUCINE - Make Make aa Genoese Genoese cake cake (ser., (sec GENOESE) GENOESE) in in aa charlotte charlotte mould. mou Id. Leave Leave it it until is completely completely cold. cold. Remove Remove the the top top and and scoop scoop out out the the until itil is cake cake almost completely, completely, being being careful careful not not to to break break the the crust. crust. Fill Fill with \vith alternate alternate layers layers of of tangerine-flavoured tangerine-flavoured lced Iced mousse mousse and kummel-flavoured kummel-ftavoured lced Iced mousse, mousse, prepared prepared in advance. advanee. Cover Coyer the the Genoese Genoese cake cake with with its its top. top. Surround Surround itit with with ice iee and salt salt in in a bucket buckct and leave for for I1 hour, hour, or or place place in in aa food food freezer. Place Place it it on on a base base of of clear clear sugar, sugar, decorated decorated with with flowers flowers and and ribbons ribbons of of spun spun sugar. sugar. Pipe Pipe Chantilly ChanNJ/y cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) through through aa forcing-bag forcing-bag onto onto the the cake. clecfs - These are Iced Ieee:! souff6s. soufflés. sollrFI.fs SOUFFLÉS GLACÉS are preparod prepared with with aa similar to that mixturb mixture similar that used for for cream iced mousses, mousses, or or with with aa fruit fruit mixture. mixture. Ingredients Ingredients and methodfor melhodfor fruit iced iced souffids. soufflés. Whisk Whisk l0 10 egg egg g. (18 whites stiff foam. wltites to to a a stiff foam. Add Add 500 500 g. (l8 oz., oz., 2| 2~ cups) cups) sugar sugar SUGAR). cooked with with 1I cup water to to 116"C. 116-C. (240'F.) (24O v F.) (see (see SUGAR). Put Put this this mixture mixture in in aa bowl bowl and chill. chilI. Add Add +t litre litre (scant (seant pinq2l pint, 2~ cups) ofwhatever of whatever fruit fruit puree purée is is desired and t~ litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2| stiffiy beaten cream. 2! cups) stiffly Large are served served in Large soufl6s soufflés are in an an ordinary ordinary souffi6 soufflé dish, dish, or stuck stuck surrounded by by a a white wltite paper paper friil frill tied tied with with string string or (l cm. (1 should be The frill together together with with butter. butter. The frill should be about about 2i 2t cm. dish until soufr6 is dish. Fill inch) inch) deeper than than the the dish. Fil! the the dish until the the soufflé is flush with with the top top of of the frill. frill. Put Put it it in in aa bucket bucket of of ice ice and in a food freezer. salt, or in little way, either either in in little in the the same same way, Small soufflés souffi6s are are served in paper cases. They, too, too, should should be be frilled paper cases. They, metal cases cases or or in metal in frilled placed in put to in aa food and salt, salt, or or placed to freeze in in aa bucket bucket of of ice and put food fteezer. freezer. paper frills dish or or frills from from the remove the paper Before serving rem ove the the dish cases. gflteau. BISCUITS cuc6s -ice gâteau. BIscuITs GLACÉS or ice cream or ice cream Neapolitan ice Neapolitan rectangumixture shaped in rectangumade of of lce cream creen mixture These ices are made layers of of with layers are alternated alternated with ice cream cream are lar boxes. Layers Layers of of iee lar flavours. iced of different colours and flavours. water iees way, or or salt in in the the usual usual way, in ice and and salt left to to freeze freeze in They are are left They placed in aa food freezer. food freezer. plaeed the mould, mould, itit out of of the taken out is taken block of ice cream is When the block or decordecorunadorned, or either unadorned, served either and served slabs and is cut cut into neat s!abs is piped through forcing-bag. through aa forcing-bag. plain iee ice cream piped ated with with plain ated coMTESSEstscun COMTESSEComtesse-Marie. BlSCUIT ice cream cream Comtesse-Marie. Neapolitan ice (called aa mould (called square mould special square in aa special made in This isis made MARIE -- Titis MARIE Strawberry with Strawberry lined entirely entirely with mould). ItIt isis lined Comtesse-Maria mould). Comtesse-Marie cream. whipped cream. vanilla-flavoured whipped sweet vanilla-ftavoured with sweet ice and andfilled ice filled with paper special waxed waxed paper into aa special the mould mould into of the the ice ice out out of Turn the Tum and kirsch, and in kirsch, steeped in strawberries steeped with large strawberries Decorate with case. Decorate case. cream. whipped cream. sweet whipped sweet

rcns MlSCELLANEOUS AND ICE CREAMS. CREA MS. ct GLACES MISCELLANEOUS ICES AND

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DIVERSES DIVERSES

mousses or or mousselines. mousselines. MoussEs, MOUSSES, MoussELINEs MOUSSELINES mousses GLACÉES -- Iced mousse or mousseline may be be made made in in two ct-lcfes syrup or custard custard cream. different ways, using using either syrup cream. different (4 cups syrup (4 Make aa thick for lhe thiek syrup the syrup. syrup. Make Ingredients for (220"F.) and sngar, to 104.5"C. I04·5°C. (220°F.) and cooled). sugar,22 cups water boiled to quantities of sttfr ChanAdd equal of fresh fruit pulp and very stiff equal quantilies lilly tilly cream crearn (see CREAMS). 500 g. Make aa custard using Ingredients for for the using 500 Ingredients the cream. cream. Make (scant pint, pint, yolks and (18 oz., and 1I litre (seant 16 egg egg yolks oz., 2* 2t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 16 (18 (scant pint, pint, 2* 2t cups) 2f cups) milk. Leave to cool. Add 1+ litre (seant 2* powdered gum gum g. G oz., or., 21 2f tablespoons) powdered fresh cream, cream, 20 20 g. fresh (vanilla, orange or lemon lemon rind, orange or tragacanth and flavouring (vanilla, and flavouring fruit, add If the mousse isis made with fruit, etc.). If various liqueurs, etc.). (scant pint, pint,2f, cups) fresh fresh fruit fruit to the the cream cream mixture mixture 1tlitre to litre (scant 2* eups) pulp. frothy. Put Put into very frothy. Beat the on ice ice until is very Beat until itit is the mixture mixture on paper. Seal hermetically and them hermetically and moulds lined with wltite white paper. Seal them hours, according to to 33 hours. salt for 22 to leave to to stand stand in in ice ice and and salt the size Ids. size of of the the mou moulds. pARFArrs GLACÉS the term cuc6s -- ln In former former times times the term Iced parfaits. PARFAITS lced sweet flavoured with parfait was with for an an iced iced sweet parfair was used used exclusive!y exclusively for parfoits are made from from aIl all kinds of of ices, ices. coffee. coffee. Nowadays, Nowadays, parfails are made are not not encased encased in in aa They differ bombes in in that that they they are differ from from bombes They simple simple water water iee ice cream. cream. ice or or iee (l| pints, quart) pints, generolls generous quart) yolks in litre (I~ Mix 32 32 egg in 1I litre Mix egg yolks cooled. and cooled. syrup syrup of28° of28" density, density, strained strained and Strain through through aa flame like like aa custard. custard. Strain Cook over over aa \ow low flame Cook quite cold. Flavour cold. Flavour ice until until itit isis quite on ice fine fine sicve, sieve, and and whisk whisk on (6 tablespoons, rum or or brandy, brandy, and and scant îj cup) cup) rum with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with (lf pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crea litre (I~ cream, stiffiy beaten, beaten. b!end m, stiffly blend in in \I litre for mould. Leave Leave in in ice ice and and salt salt for Put a parfait mould. the mixture naparfoit Put the mixture in place in in aa food food freezer. freezer. 22 to to 33 hours, hours, or or place with coffee, coffee, chocolate, chocolate, flavoured with Titis This mixture mixture can can be be flavoured praline, vanilla other flavourings. flavourings. vanilla and many other praline, and many pouDINGs GLACÉS puddings can Ice puddings can be be made made prddings. POUDINGS cucfs-- Iee Ice Ice puddings. pudding-basin mou moulds shaped in in pudding-basin or in many many ways. ways. They They are are shaped in Ids or in Ids. rn bombe bombe mou moulds.

!ced Iced

(*

Sweets ENrRElrtErscucfsICED DESSERTS DESSERTS or or SWEETS. SWEETS. ENTREMETS lCED GLACÉS - Sweets ice in addition addition to to iee either be served served in this kind kind may may either or desserts desserts of of this or in their their composition. composition. cream in ice cream may include include iee cream or or may cream (q.v.), Char/Olle cream (q.v.), Charlotte are Bavarian Bavarian cream Among these sweets are these sweets Among (see CHARLOTTE), flavoured with with fruit salads salads f1avoured russe (see CHARLOTTE), fruit russe jellies including puddings, fruit moulds, moulds, puddings, including fruit various jellies liqueurs, various liqueurs, (q.v.). (see RICE), su6doise (q.v.). RICE), stewed stewed suédoise Rice àd l'impératrice l'impiratrice (see Rice poMMEs GLACÉES r,l' NORNoncrecfos ÀA LA la normande. normande. POMMES Iced apples apples ài la Iced

495 495

ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES ICE

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MANDE - SCOOp Scoop out out large, large, sound sound cooking cooking apples appleswithout without MANDE damaging the the skins. skins. Immerse Immerse the the hollowed-out hollowed-outapples apples for for aa damaging few minutes minutes inin boiling boiling syrup, syrup, so so that that they they are areslightly slightly few cooked. cooked. pulp, make From the the pulp, make either either an lce cream an Ice crecrrn mixture mixture or or aa From (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) (see above). mixture (see above). Flavour Flavour with with Calvados. Calvados. Mousse If the the apples apples are filled with with mousse are filled mousse mixture, mixture,chili chill them therninin If plenty of of ice ice and and salt salt for for about about 22 hours. hours. IfIf they they are are filled filled with with plenty just before ice cream, cream, freeze freeze the the mixture mixture first first and and fi.!1 fill the the skins skins just before ice serving. serving. pAMpLEMouss GLACÉ grapefruit (filJed). (filled). PAMPLEMOUSSE Iced grapefruit cr,lcf -- This This sweet sweet Iced prepared in can be be prepared in the the same same way way as lced tangerines as /ced tangerinesand and can (see below), oranges (see below), by by filling filling the the skins plain ice skins with with aa plain ice or or oranges (bombe) mixture Mousse (bombe) mixture made pulp. made from from the the pulp. Mousse (filled). MELON Iced melon melon (filled). MELoN GLACÉ cucf -- Slice Slice off off the the top top of of aa Iced large cantaloupe cantaloupe melon melon near near the the stem. stem. Remove Remove ailliquid all liquid and and large seeds. seeds. Using aa large large spoon, pulp, being spoon, scoop out the scoop out the pulp, being careful careful not not Using to damage damage the rind. Make the rind. Make aa kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured water water ice ice or or ice ice to pulp. cream with with the the pulp. cream Just before before serving, serving, fiJI fill the the melon melon with with this this ice. ice. Serve Serve in in aa Just glass dish, large glass dish, surrounded surrounded with with crushed crushed ice. ice. large Iced melon melon fi.lled fined àn la h Chantilly. Chantilly. MELON MEr,oN GLACÉ cr.lcf ÀA LA r,r CHANcneNIced TILLv - Prepare Prepare the the melon melon as as indicated indicated above. above. Cook Cook the the TILLY pulp sugar sugar and and rub rub itit through through aa fine fine sieve. quite cold, sieve. When When quite cold, pulp mix itit with with stiffly stifry beaten beaten Chantilly (see CREA Chantilly cream crectrn (see CREAMS) MS) mix flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the inside inside of of the the melon melon rind rind fiavoured with sugar and and kirsch, leave for for aa time, time, and and then then fi.!1 fill the the rind rind with with the the mixture. with Stand the the melon melon in in an an ice ice bucket bucket for for 22 hours hours before Stand before serving. porREs BELLE Iced pears belle belle angevine. POIRES BELLE ANGEVINE ANGEvnm - Cut Iced Cut pear at each pear at the the stalk stalk end, end, core core it, it, scoop scoop out out sorne each some of of the the without damaging the pour boiling syrup the skin and and pour syrup over flesh without over the fruit. fruit. Fill pear /ced lced mousse flavoured with Fill the pears with pear with kirsch or with ordinary Pear from the the scooped-out flesh. Pear ice made from flesh. Arrange pears on the pears on aa napkin-covered dish, Arrange the dish, or or on on aa foundation ofnougat. foundation of nougat. Iced pears, pearg filJed. filled. ponrs DUCrrEss GLACÉES crlcfrs -- Scoop Iced POIRES DUCHESSE Scoop out, out, without some large, large, sound, well-shaped without damaging the skins, sorne well-shaped pears. Using the pulp, prepare aa Mousse (bombe) (bombe) mixture. pears. Using Immerse the pears for for 55 minutes the hollowed-out pears minutes in in boiling syrup.Drain syrup. Drain and leave to cool. Fill with the mousse mixture and chill plenty chili for 2 hours in an ice bucket with pIe nt y of ice ice and salt. salt. Iced Iced pineapple. pineapple. ANANAS ANANAS crrlcf GLACÉ -- Choose a large pineapple, regular regular in shape, with the plume of of its tufted top left on. Remove the tufted tufted top by a clean cut about 2 cm. (t inch) cm. G: below below the crown. crown. Keep Keep it to use as a lid. Carefully remove remove all ail the the flestr, flesb, leaving on the sides and on the bottom bottom of of the the unbroken unbroken rind, pulp pulp about 1I cm. (t $ inch) thick. Dust Dust inside inside with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) kirsch and and leave in place for about about 2 hours. in aa cold cold place Just Just before before serving, serving, fill fill the the rind with Pineappte Pineapp/e ice ice prepared pared from from the the pulp removed removed earlier, with shredded shredded pineapple apple steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch added added to it. Put Put the the pineapple pineapple on a napkin napkin or a block block of ice slightly hollowed hollowed out out in in the the middle, middle, and and replace replace the tufted tufted crown crown on top. top. Iced Iced pineapple pineapple à la bourbonnaise. bourbonnaise. ,c,NA.NAs ANANAS cucS GLACÉ A À rn, LA BouRBoNNArsE BOURBONNAISE -- Slice Slice off off the the top top of of a large large fresh fresh pineapple. Keep Keep this this part part with with its its leaves leaves intact intact to to cover coyer the the pineapple pineapple later. later. Carefully Carefully scoop scoop out out all ail the the flesh flesh of of the the pineapple. pineapple. Core it, it, and and cut cut the the remainder remainder into into little little cubes. cubes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with rum rum and and sugar sugar and and stand stand itit on on ice. ice.

Iced pineapple pineapplemounted lced ice mountedon pedestal of onaapedestal ofice

(Modern Press) (Modern Press)

Make aa mm Make rum ice icecream. cream. Before Before serving, serving sprinkle sprinkle the the inside inside of of the the scooped-out scooped-out shell shell with with rum rum and and sugar sugarand and embed embeditit inin an an ice-bucket ice-bucket toto chilI. chill. Fill Fill the the shell shell with pineapple cubes with alternate alternate layers layers of of pineapple cubes and and rum rum ice ice cream. cream. Coyer pineapple. Serve Cover with with the the top top of of the the pineapple. Servesurrounded surrounded with with crushed crushed ice. ice. Iced pineapple ài la Iced pineapple la Chantilly. Chantilly. ANANAS ANANAs GLACÉ cr.c,cf ÀA LA r,c, CHANcnA.l.lT1LLY-Proceed tttty-Proceed as as described described in in the recipe for the recipe for /ced lced pineapp/e pineapple above, pineapple ice above, replacing replacing pineapple ice by Vanilla ice ice cream by Vanilla cream with with whipped whipped crearn cream added it. added to to it. Arrange pineapple on Arrange the the pineapple on aa napkin napkin or or on on aa block block of of ice ice and and replace replace the the tufted tufted top. top. Iced pineapple ài la Iced pineapple la créole. ANANAs GLACÉ cr6ole. ANANAS cr,lc6 ÀA LA ra, CRÉOLE cnEors -Scoop pineapple as Scoop out out the the pineapple as indicated indicated above. above. Fill Fill with an with an Iced pulp of Iced mousse mousse made made from from the pineapple alternating the pulp of the the pineapple alternating with with layers layers of of chopped chopped crystallised crystallised fruit fruit steeped steeped in in rum. rum. Replace sb covered pineapple. Serve Replace the the top top of of the the pineapple. Serve on on aa di dish covered with with aa napkin, or or on on aa block block of of ice. ice. Iced pineapple àA la Iced pineapple parisienne 1.I. ANANAS la parisienne lx,q,Nls GLACÉ cllcf ÀA LA u, PARISIENNE IARISIENNE -- Prepare Prepare aa Banana Banana ice ice and and flavour flavour with with ChamChampagne brandy. Cut pineapple and Cut off off the the top top of of the the pineapple scoop out and scoop out threethreequarters quarters of pulp without without damaging of the the pulp damaging the the rind. rind. Cut Cut the the pulp into small small dice (4 OZ., g. (4 dice and and steep steep in in aa bowl 125 g. bowl with with 125 oz., ti cup) (4 OZ., cup) wild wild strawberries strawberries and 125 g. and 125 oz, 1I cup) cup) black black e. (4 grapes, sugar, and Champagne Champagne brandy. Keep place Keep in in aa cool cool place until ready ready to to serve. Fill the pineapple rind rind with with banana banana ice, ice, alternating alternating with with layers layers of of the the fresh fresh fruit. fruit. Sprinkle Sprinkle each each layer layer of of fruit fruit with with blanched, finely shredded almonds. Finish Finish with with aa layer layer of of ice ice cream and coyer cover with the tufted top. top. Put on a block block of of ice, ice, slightly slightly hollowed hollowed out out in in the the middle, middle, napkin-covered dish. or on aa napkin-covered dish. Serve Serve with with Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced laced with with kirsch. kirsch. Iced pineapple ài la Iced pineapple parisienne II. la parisienne II. ANANAS nN,c.NA,s GLACÉ crlct ÀA LA ll PARISIENNE -- Scoop rARISIENNE Scoop out out the the pineapple as as indicated indicated above. above. Fill with alternate layers layers of of Strawberry Strawberry ice ice and and aa salpicon salpicon of pineapple pulp, diced (q.v.) of diced and and steeped in kirsch. kirsch. steeped in Iced tangerines and oranges. MANDARINES ET ORANGES Iced tangerines and oranges. MANDARTNES ET oRANcEs GLACÉES -- Slice Slice off off the the top top of fruit near crec6es of the the fruit near tbe the stem. stem. Scoop Scoop out the the pulp pulp carefully carefully so so as as not not to out to damage damage tbe Fill the the skins. skins. Fill the skins with with aa plain Tangerine ice or skins Tangerine ice or Orange Orange ice ice made made from from the the fruit pulp. fruit Coyer with with the the top top of of the the fruit fruit and serve on napkin. Cover and serye on aa napkin. Melon frappe frappé - Two Two melons melons are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of Melon of

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496

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

ICE CREAMS AND ICES

(RobertCarrwr) Carrier) Chantilly(Robert pineappleà dlalaChantilly Icedpineapple lced

completely cold' untilcompletely Leaveuntil vanilla.Leave withvanilla. flavouredwith syrup flavoured syrup cold. layer of thicklayer fairlytruck dishon ona afairly theminina adish Putthem them.Put Iirainthem. Drain of jelly flavoured redcurrant jelly flavoured icedredcurrant withiced Coverwith ice.Coyer Strawberry ice. Strawberry on top. strawberrieson wildstrawberries scatterwild andscatter kirsch.and withkirsch, with top. pEcnes MELBA - This sweet was first made in Melba.PÊCHES PeachMelba. Peach MELBA - This sweet was first made in thick fairlytruck with dish silver a Linea silver dish with a afairly Escoffier.Line LondonbybyEscoffier. London on top peeled peaches whiclt Place cream. ice Vanilta of layer layer of Vanilla ice cream . Place on top peeled peaches which and left vanilla,and withvanilla, flavouredwith syrupflavoured steepedinina asyrup hivebeen beensteeped have left peaches are then covered Thepeaches cold.The completelycold. arecompletely theyare untilthey are then covered until pur6e. raspberrypurée. withraspberry with served in the same way. maybebeserved fruitmay kindsofoffruit Manyother otherkinds Many in the sa me way. steeped in sugar or strawberries fresh large For instance, For instance, large fresh strawberries steeped in sugar or

graniti makeaagranité them,make pulpof ofthem, oneof ofone this thepulp Usingthe sweet.Using thissweet. flavoured kirsch. withkirsch. flavoured with thestem stem' nearthe melon near secondmelon . Slice thesecond topofofthe thetop offthe Sliceoff the outthe scoopout spoon,scoop Usinga aspoon, Remove seeds.Using andseeds. liquidand RemoveaIlallliquid pulp thepulp Steepthe rind'Steep therind. damage the pulp, being nottotodamage pulp, caiefulnot beingcarefuJ -ott maraschino oror kirsch,maraschino port,sherry, sherry, kirsch, on ice Frontignan, port, lceininFrontignan, Curaçao. Curagao. very untilititisisvery bucketuntil icebucket Put melonininananice themelon theshell shellofofthe Putthe iced granitiand theiced andthe thegranité layersofofthe cold. alternatelayers withalternate Fillwith cold.Fill flesh melon' secondmelon. thesecond fleshofofthe dish.glassdish. Serveinina aglass Replace melon.Serve themelon. topofofthe thetop Replacethe peachesinina a pBcnssCARDINAL thepeaches Stewthe Peaches cardinal. PÊCHES - Stew CARDINALPeachescardinal. 497 497

ICHTHYOPHAGY pears (halved (halvodor kirsch; pears quartered) stewed or quartered) stewed inin vanillavanillakirsch; flavouredsyrup, syrup, and andchi chilled; nectarines (peeled, (peeled, stewed stewed in in flavoured lied ; nectarines syrup and and chilled), chilled), etc. etc. syrup porREs MELBA Pear Melba. Melba. POIRES pears in Poach the the pears in vanillavanillaPear MELBA - - Poach flavoured syrup. syrup. Drain Drain and and dry dry them. them.Arrange glass dish Arrange inin aaglass dish flavoured or aatimbale timbale on onaafoundation foundation of of Vanilla Vanilla ice ice cre andcoyer crearn cover or am and with raspberry raspberry purée. pur6e. with ICIITIIYOPHAGY. rcHryopuAcm -- The practioe of The practice of eating eating ICHTHYOPHAGY. ICHTYOPHAGIE nothing, or or almost almost nothing, nothing, but fish. Ichthyophagy but fish. Ichthyophagy isis mainly mainly nothing, practised among peoples. A among seaboard seaboard peoples. A fish fish diet diet isis said said to to be be practised less nourishing nourishing than than aa meat meat diet, diet, but but there there are are no no subsubless grounds for stantial grounds for this view. Fish this view. Fish has has been been credited credited with with stantial aphrodisiac properties. properties. ItIt isis also also said said to to stimulate stimulate the the brain. brain. aphrodisiac These properties were attributed to fish because of a misThese properties were attributed to fish because of a misguided belief that that itit con contains proportion of high proportion phosof phostains aa high guided belief phorus. In fact there is less phosphorus in fish than in meat, phorus. In fact there is less phosphorus in fish than in meat, less even than in some vegetables. Fish on the whole is very less even than in sorne vegetables. Fish on the whole is very easily digested. gives the digested. As As aa result result itit gives the impression impression of of being being less less easily filling than than sorne some other other foods, foods, and and so so itit is is not not favoured favoured by bv filling manual workers. workers. manual ICING. GLACES cLAcEs DE DE SUCRE sucRE -- Sugar Sugar icing, icing, which which may premay be be preICING. pared with or without cooking, is used in confectionery of all pared with or without cooking, is used in confectionery of aIl kinds. Pas Pastries, petitsfours cakes and and petits (q.v.) ofvarious of various kinds kinds kinds. tries, cakes fours (q.v.) may ail all be be decorated decorated with with icing. icing. may Blackcurrant icing. icing. GLACE cr.lcr AU Au CASSIS cAssrs -- Mix (3 tableMix !+ dl. dl. (3 tableBlackcurrant juice with spoons, scant scant -i-f, cup) cup) blackcurrant blackcurrant juice with 1i dl. al (6 table1O tablespoons, spoons, scant scant 1 cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to (lZl.C., to hard hard ball ball stage stage (121 * cup) spoons, oc., 250"F.). Add Add enough enough icing icing sugar produce aa fairly sugar ta to produce fairly stiff stiff 250°F.). paste. Mix. This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It paste. Mix. This icing must be warmed slightly before use. It is often often coloured coloured with with aa little little Iiquid liquid carmine. carmine. is Using the the same same method, method, icing icing may may be be made with strawstrawUsing made with berries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants redcurrants and and other other red red fruit. fruit. berries, Chocolate icing. icing. GLACE cucr AU cuocolAr -- Place g. (4 (4 oz., Place 125 125 g. oz, AU CHOCOLAT Chocolate 4 squares) unsweetened, softened chocolate 4 squares) unsweetened, softened chocolate in in aa bowl. bowl. Add Add lukewarm syrup, short thread aa ferv few tablespoens tablespoQns lukewarm syrup, boiled boiled to to short thread stage SUGAR), and and icing sugar. This This icing stage (see (see SUGAR), icing sugar. icing must must be be used used at at once. once. Coffee icing. cracr rc,u cAFE - Add Add to to It litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, - Coffee icing. GLACE AU CAFÉ 2| 2-i- cups) cups) very very strong strong coffee coffee (coffee (coffee essence) essence) enough enough icing icing sugar to make a fairly paste. sugar to make a fairly stiff stiff paste. This This icing icing must must be be used used at at onc€. once. put a basin 2*ks. Fmdant Fondant icing. icing. cucr GLACE AU AU FoNDANT FONDANT -- Put in in a basin 2t kg. (5+ lb.) lump sugar. Add l+ litres (2f pints, 2f, pints) oi"tJt (51 lb.) lump sugar. Add It litres (2-i- pints, 2i pints) water and 100 g.(4o2., I cup)glucose. and 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) glucose. Cook Cook over over aa high high flame, flame, skimming skimming from from time time to to time, time, until until the l6'C. (240'F.) sugar has has reached reached I116°C. (240°F.) or or soft soft ball baIl stage stage (see (see the sugar sUGAR). SUGAR). Pour the sugar onto a marble Pour the sugar onto a marble slab slab and and let let itit cool cool aa little. little. Work Work it it with with aa spatula spatula by by folding folding the the edges edges towards towards the the put in aa centre centre until until itit is is aa white white and and very very smooth smooth fondant. fondant. Put in bowl, bowl, cover coyer with with aa damp damp cloth c10th and and leave leave in in aa cool cool place. place. To use thefondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the mixture To use the fondant. Soften a few tablespoons of the mixture in a small saucepan over a low flame, stirring constantly. in a small saucepan over a low flame, stirring constantly. Add Add aa little little syrup syrup cooked cooked to ta short short thread thread stage. stage. Flavour Flavour with with any any appropriate appropriate liqueur, liqueur, or or add add aa little little coffee coffee essen@ essence or or melted chocolate. melted chocolate. Colour Colour the the fondant fondant with with carmine carmine or or any any other other vegetable vegetable colouring colouring ifif desired. desired. Lemm GLACE AU AU crrRoN CITRON-- Made Made with with the the rind rind and and Lemoo icing icing-- cLAcE juice of lemons, as for Orange icing (se below). juice of lemons, as for Orange icing (see below). put Orange icing. cracr 2 oranges Orange icing. GLACEAÀL'oRANGE L'ORANGE-- Putthe thepeel peel of of2 oranges in in I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant I c.rp) cup) syrup syrup cooked cooked to to the the hard hard ball ball stage stage (see (see SUGAR) SUGAR) and and let letitit stand stand for for 15 15minutes. minutes. juice Add Add the the strained strained juice of ofthe thefruit. fruit. Put Putthe themixture mixtureininaa bowl, bowl, add add icing icingsugar, sugar, and and proceed proceed as asfor for other otherkinds kinds oficing. of icing. This Thisicing icingmay maybe becoloured colouredwith withaalittle littleliquid liquidcarmine cannineand and aa yellow yellowvegetable vegetabledye. dye. ItItmust mustbe beused used at atonce. once.

put 22egg Royal icing. icing. GLACE cracr ROYALE RoyALE - - Put eggwhites whites ininaasmall small Royal bowl. Add Addenough enough icing icing sugar sugar to to make make aafairly paste, fairly stiff stiff paste, bowl. though itit must mustbe besoft softenough enoughtoto spread spread easily easily on oncakes cakesand and though pastry. pastry. Mix, without without working working the the eggs eggsand and sugar sugar too too hard. hard. Mix, preRoyal icing icing for for desserts desserts or or sweets. sweets. GLACE cLAcE ROY RoyALE Roya] ALE - - Prepared in in the the same same way way as asordinary ordinary royal royal icing icing with with egg pared eggwhites whites and very very fine fine icing icing sugar. sugar. Add Add to to the the.mixture to88drops drops of and ·mixture 66 to of juice and lemon juice and work work with with aa spatula spatula for for 88 toto 10 l0 minutes. minutes. lemon When the the icing icing isis ready, ready, coyer cover with with damp paper. Keep damp paper. Keep in When in aa place. cool place. cool Strawberry fondant fondant icing. icing. GLACE crlcr AU AU FONDANT FoNDANT ÀA LA Strawberry ~ L,c, FRAISE rRnrs.Cook sugar sugar to (240"F.) or to 116°C. I I 6"C. (240°F.) or soft (see SUGAR). soft ball stage (see ball stage SUGAR). Cook juice and Add aa little little strawberry strawberry juice juice. and aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice. Add Pour itit on on aa marble marble slab slab and work itit with and work with aa spatula spatula until until very very Pour smooth. smooth. Using the the sa same method, fondant fondant icing icing may may be be made made with with Using me method, juice, lemon raspberry juice, juice), or (rind and lemon (rind and juice), (rind and or orange orange (rind and raspberry juice), or juice of pulp or from the or from the pulp or juice of other other kinds kinds of of fruit. fruit. juice), Icing Oavoured flavoured with with mm nrm and and otber other tiqueurs. liqucrrs. GLACE cLAcE AU Icing AU RHrJM -- Put (6 tablespoons, Put in in aa bowll bowl I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant! scant I cup) cup) syrup syrup RHUM (see SUGAR), cooked to to soft soft ball ball stage stage (see SUGAR), 11 l+ tablespoons tablespoons rum rum cooked juice. Add and 1I teaspoon teaspoon lemon lemon juice. Add icing icing sugar. sugar. Mix. Mix. Use Use at and at once. once. Icing made made in in this this way way may may be be flavoured flavoured with with other Icing other liqueurs. liqueurs. IERCHI -- Russian name for aa small small fish similar gudgeon. similar to gudgeon. IERClD It is is much used in in Russian cooking, served served fried fried or in in soup. soup. It

Iguana Iguana

IGUANA. lizard, very IGUANA. rcu.lxs IGUANEkind of oflizard, very scarce scarce except except in in the - A kind tropics. tropics. Iguanas are to to be found found in in both hemispheres, hemispheres, but there there is is one one species species which which exists only in America. America. In In spite spite of of its its size, which precludes precludes its its assimilation assimilation with European European lizardslizards - though though itit is is akin akin to to these these in in its its habits, habits, and is is almost almost as as graceful graceful and and no no less less agile agile - the the iguana iguana should be be included among those those harmless harmless animals animais which which are are worthy worthy of included among

preservation. preservation. Its among the the foods foods most most highly highly prizd prized by by the the Its flesh flesh is is among gourmets gourmets of of Central Central and and South South America. America. fr,f-Op-fnANCEÏLE-DE-FRANCE - Some Sorne people people say say that that paris, Paris, the the symbol symbol and and home home of of the the whole whole gastronomic gastronomic tradition tradition of of the the lle-deÎ1e-deFrance, France, does does not not possess possess culinary culinary specialities specialities which which are are particularly particularly her her own. own. Such Such people people take take no no account account of of the the magnificent magnificent work work carried carried out out by by the the master master chefs chefs of ofParisian Parisian restaurants, restaurants, from from Car6me Carême to to Escoffier. Escoffier. There There were were also also Gouff6, Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Phil6as Philéas Gilbert, Gilbert, Marguery, Marguery, pailPailGouffé, Urbain lard, Mourier, Nignon Nignon and and aa host host of of others. others. lard, Mourier, In In this this vast vast city city there there are are the the best best cooks cooks and and most most skilful skilful cordons cordons bleus bleus of of all aIl France. France. Paris Paris abounds abounds with with foodstuffs foodstuffs imported imported from from abroad abroad and and brought brought in in from from every every corner corner of of France, France, not not to to mention mention the the produce produce of ofthe the fertile fertile soil soil of of the the Ile-de-France, Île-de-France, and and the the livestock livestock reard reared in in all ail the the dipartedépartements ments around around Paris, Paris, which which provide provide itit with with savoury savoury fish, fish, delicate deIicate poultry, poultry, every every kind kind of of game game and and aa host host of of other other delicious delicious things. things.

t

498

ILE.DE-FRANCE ÎLE-DE-FRANCE

Les (FrezclGovernmen! TouristOffice) Ofice) Halles(French Govenr*unl Tourist l,esHalles

peas; greenpeas; reputation France;Clamart Clamartgreen bestininFrance; thebest ofbeing beingthe reputation of Arpajon; the thecauliflower cauliflowerofofArpajon; Bagnolet;the ofBagnolet; French beans beans of theFrench andasasthe artichokesand Laonartichokes ofCrécy-sur-Morin; Cr6cy-sur-Morin; Laon thecarrots carrotsof accuratelyofof paragus; moreaccurately Soissons,orormore ofSoissons, paragus; the beansof white beans thewhite the morelsofofthe Noyon; fragrantmorels thefragrant Versailles ;the ofVersailles; lettuces of Noyon; the thelettuces thecultivated cultivated woods Rambouillet;the andRambouillet; Viarmesand Verri6res, Viannes woodsof ofVerrières,

The and grown inin the ilede-France, and theÎle-de-France, are grown The finest finest vegetables vegetables are the picked ininthe orchards theorchards fruit isispicked flavoured fruit delicately flavoured the most most delicately of ts toto gastronomic deligh delights thegastronomie few of of the list of ofaafew Here isisaa list of Paris. Paris. Here be regioninin theParis Parisregion and inin the ilede-France, and found inin the the Île-de-France, befound particular particular:: Argenteuil hasthe the ofLauris Lauris has that of whichwith with that asparagus, wruch Argenteuil asparagus, 499 499

ILE-DE.FRANCE

RDY t.'

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{'Crayfish,Bo:r'r.tread.?iltodes(gritts).

,\ Partridge priti, Artichokes. -],Aslaragus11 TRoUT. CRAYFISH

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EEANS i'6olSSonsc? -t=aa l"llatP'"u"Lc! ",Wlers-Cotterets t Grittodes (grills), wild -,,:F.rabbit terrrnes

.9enls

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Game ternnes Venlson pdrd

f ,'n,h Snarfs,

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Trrpe

;"-^$a Longourte(Splny (Spinyloblter) lobsrer) àdlalocrème. crimc. Stuffed Stuffed Langouste


r t -

tffiis5:fi,i'i* n ,

potoroes (ried ftiedpOloroes

Chicken marengo. merengo, Saure r. Sourd chicken
of sole. Sourl chicken

Supr€me

Chicken àdlalocremè cremiand andoU ouP0f(O blon<, Chicken Doraoblanc.

"""i..;} (i

Sweetbread barquettes. barquertes, Braised noir Eraised noi. Sweetbread veou, Sauté de-eau. veal chasseur. SoutC -eal cholseur. de

t:

Veal marengo. marengo. Beer mode,Miforon Mirocon of Eeef
c5cqf9PC5.

Pwde Crdcy, Purde St. Cermoin.

St. Maur Julienne, Watercress

soup, Soupe bonne femme.

Parisian salad. Fried eggs d lo crdole, Eercy eggs, Godiveou. Rissoles d lo porisienae, Hot

Fried tripe. tripe, Munon horico!, Mutton Hutton haricot. l.lutton navarin, novoria. Fried Shoufder 01 of mutton muttonboulangêre. Pork cutlet! Shoulder boutonglre, Pork cutler: piguonte, Jambon pone-moillot, souce piquanle. cid lalo lauce lombonporce-moillor.

Chicken frinchard.

i" T'-.. i

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,)

lNemours

lench. .Clricten

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Thrush ciri lalo parisienne. porisienne. Thrush Roast rook. rook. Roast Puits d·omour. Wafiles. Tafle/erres d omou, Waffies. fortelettcr Puils

pOtds

Wafers. Brioches chontilly. Walers. coanrnly. Erioches Gastronornic rnap map ofJle-de-France of le-de-France Gastronomie

mushrooms of the Paris region, called champignons de paris; mushrooms of the Paris de Paris; the pot-vegetables grown at Bagneux, Ch6tillon, Saint Denii the pot-vegetables grown at Saint Denis and and other other places places in in the the area; area; onions, onions, small small and and large, large, leeks, leeks, cabbages, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, shallots, various cabbages, carrots, turnips, cucumbers, shal1ots, various salld-s, spinach, sorrel, chervil, parsley, parsnips, horsesorrel, chervil, parsley, parsnips, horseradish, beetroot. The The fruits fruits of of the the Paris Paris orchards orchards have have aa great reputation; repu tation; the the Chasselas Chasselas of of Fontainebleau Fontainebleau (those (those from the the king's king's vine-arbour), Andr6zy; the vine-arbour), of of Thomery and and Andrézy; the peaches of of Montreuil; the strawberries of valley, Montreuil; the of the the Bidvre Bièvre.Ricart', valley, tle H6ricart Héricart strawhrry strawberry which which the the barrow-men barrow-men call call 'Ricart', and and many many other other sweet-smelling sweet-smelling fruits fruits which which melt melt in in the the mouth, mou th, such such ai as pears, apples, plums, figs, apricots and nectarines. pears, plums, apricots and nectarines. paris Excellent meat is sold in meat is in Paris. Paris. What What is is more, more, the the Paris butchers butchers are are true true artists, artists, and and their their cuts cuts are are flawless. flawless. pontoise Pontoise veal, veal, called called river river veal, veal, isis as as tender tender and and as as delicate delicate as as any any to to be be found. found. paris, in the regions of In the woods and forests around In the woods and forests around Paris, in the regions of Versailles, Versailles, Marly Marly and and Saint-Germain-au-Laye, Saint-Germain-au-Laye, the; there is is an an abundance abundanceof ofexcellent excellentgame. The The poultry poultry of ofHoudan isis held held in in high high repute repute for for its its delidelicate cate flavour. flavour. The The freshwater freshwater fish fish caught caught in in the the Seine, Seine, the the Marne, the Oise Marne, the Oiseand and the theAisne Aisneare areespocially especially delicious. delicious. Very good good cheeses cheeses are are made made round round about about paris, Paris, among which are areCoulommiers, Coulommiers,Brie, Brie Briede de Melun, Melun, and and the the fres[ creilm creamcheese cheeseknown knownas asthe theCr0met ofofFontainebleau, Fontainebleau,which which rivals rivaisthe thefamous famousfresh freshcream creamcheese cheeseofofSaumur Saumurand andAngers. Angers. On Onthe thehillsides hillsides ofofthe the Marne, Marne, which which are are an an extension extension of of the theneighbouring Champagne Champagnevineyards, vineyards,the thegrapes grapesgathered gathered produce table wines that are fresh and pleasant to taste. produce table that are fresh and pleasant to taste.

cider is is brewed brewed in in the the Aisne and Excellent eider and Oise districts, districts, paris region distilled in in the and among the liqueurs distilled region there the Paris there is one,, the Noym,t dc Poissy, which enjoys aa great great and one, Poissy, which and longlhe Noyau de established reputation. established reputation. Cirlinar] specielities - The following soups were invented parisian chefs, and in in Paris, in Parisian restaurants by Parisian and may be classed c1assed among the culinary specialities speeialities of paris Paris and the thl P_aris dcy, Saint-G ermain, par Paris region region:: Cr Crêcy, Saint-Germain, Parisien, Bonne-femme, isien, Bonne-femme, r e s s onnii r e, S C an t i, B onv ale t, C omp ii gne, C Cressonnière, Santé, Bonvalet, Cormeilles, Briard, o r me i lle s,- B r iar d, Soissonnais, Soissonnais, Argenteuil, Argenteuil, Ambassadeurs, Balvet, Balvet. Faubonne, Faubonne. atthe (invented by Dugl6re Dugléré at the Ca/E Café Anglais'1, Anglais), Darblay, Darblay, Germiny (invented lermiyl

Long champ, Saint-C loud. Longchamp, Saint-Cloud.

Alnolg Among the the pork specialities of the the paris Paris region region are: Andouilhttes Andouillettes (chitterling sausages); sausages); boudins boudins noirsnoirs et blancs blancs (black (black and and white puddings); petit-sali; petit-salé; vean veau piqui piqué (misnamed named since since itit isis not not made made from veal veal but but from from pork);friands pork) parisims; parisiens; PAIC Pâté defoie defoie de de cochon cochon (pig's liverp liver pâté);fromage de dt6);fromage de t?te tête de deporc porc (pork (pork brawn); brawn); hure dc porc dà hlaparisienne parisienne (boar,s (boar's head rià lalaparisienne) parisienne) Roulafu Roulade de de thte tête de de porc; porc .. pdt| pàté de deporc porc de de lead Paris; Paris .. rillons rillons and and rillettes; rillettes .. cervelas cervelas or or sarcisson saucisson d à aire cuire (saveloy or paris (E;lazed j@nbon glac6 or cooking cooking sausage); sausage);jambon glacé dc de Paris (glazed Paris ham); c6tes côtes de de porc dà la la charcatilre charcutière (ribs (ribs of of poirt< porkà la ah charcatibre); "11,'1>','11/"P>,,,,1 •pieds pieds de porc porc dà lnlaparisimne parisienne (pig's (pig's trotters trotters dà /a la

parisimne).

Among Among the the dishes dishes made made from from other other meat meat are: are: Beef Beef miroton; miroton; shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton dà la la boulangire; boulangère.. entreciie entrecôte

Bercy Bercy and and entrecilte entrecôte marchand marchandde de vin: vin; the the celebratd celebrated navarin navarin of mutton, and the the old old halicot ha/icot of of mutton mutton with with turnips, now now mutton. and callod haricot haricotofofmutton;fillet h"hlrn'1i,W'(bZarnaise (be;an'lai.se mutton;fillet ofofbeef beef dàlalab?arnaise sauce saucehaving havingbeen beencreated createdatatSaint-Germain-en-Lrye); Saint-Germain-en-Laye); rib ribof of 500 500

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKER y infusion infusion of of mushroom mushroom peelings, peelings, truffies truffles or or any any kind kind of of herb. herb. INSECTS, EDIBLE. EDmLE. INSEcTEs INSECTES coMEsrIBLEIi COMESTIBLES -- Considering Considering the prodigious .H'-' ..U ......, ....... number number of of insects, insects, which, which, for for the the most most part, part, feed on on ths greenstuffs greenstuffs which which are are also also eaten eaten by by man man and and his his flocks flocks and and cattle, cattle, one one cannot cannot help help being being surprised surprised that that in in the the west, of famine, no no one one dreams dreams of of eating eating them. them. west, even even in in times times of They They are are usually usually objects objects of disgust among among western western peoples who who do do not, not,. however, however, hesitate hesitate to to eat eat prawns and other shellfish. shellfish. On On the the other other hand, hand, the the Arabs Arabs and other other peoples peoples of of Africa Africa and and Asia Asia look look upon upon certain certain insects insects as as great great delicacies, delicacies, and and are are surprised at at our our taste taste for for shellfish. shellfish. The John the the The Hebrew tribes tribes ate ate insects, insects, long before before Saint Saint John Baptist Baptist was was forced forced to to feed feed exclusively on on locusts locusts and and other other creatures creatures of of the the same same kind. kind. In In Leviticus (ll, (II, 2l-22), 21-22), Moses Moses enumerates enumerates the the animals animaIs which which the the Hebrews Hebrews were were permitted oe:rmithxl to to eat. eaL Among these these he he mentions mentions four four insects insects which Saint Saint calls locusta, Jerome Jerome in in his Latin Latin translation translation caUs locusta, btuchus, bruchus, and attacus. ophimachus ophimachus and attacus. The The locusta locusta must must have have been been the the locust, locus t, but but naturalists naturalists have have been been unable un able to to identify identify the the other other three. three. food Several other insects, insects, such such as as white white ants, ants, are are used used as as food Several other by savage savage tribes. tribes. In In ancient ancient times, times, the the Greeks Greeks prized prized grassgrasshoppers very very highly, highJy, especially especially the the larvae. larvae. The The Chinese, Chinese, too, too, greatly upon the the greatly enjoy enjoy eating eating certain certain insects, insects, and and feast feast upon palm fried chrysalis of of the silk-worm, silk-worm, while while in in Mexico, Mexico, fried palm and and grubs are agave agave grubs are sold sold in in the the streets streets like like chestnuts. chestnuts.

veal vealdà lala bonne bonnefemme; femme; calves' calves' tmdons tendons dà lalapaysanne; paysanne; the the oldold-

fashioned/ricandean; du Puits Puits Certin; Certin; sauti sauté of of fashioned fricandeau; calves' calves' head head fu veal veal chassertr; chasseur; mutton mutton chops Chanpvallon; Champvallon; sheep's sheep's trotters trollers dà la poulette; ipigrammes of tmttton,lamb, lamb, etc. Among the special poultry and game dishes dishes of of Paris Paris are: are: Sautied Sautéed chicken Bercy, Bercy, Boivin-Champeaux, Chasseur, Chasseur, Durand,fines en Durand, fines herbes, herbes, Lathuile, Lathuile, Parmentier; Parmentier; sprtng spring chiekm chicken en cocotte, dà la la Clamart, Clamart, dà la la bonne-femme, bonne-femme, dà la la diable; diable; squab squab dà cocotte, la la crapaudine, crapaudine, en en compote, compote, m en papillotes; papillotes; fuckling duckling nantais nantais with turnips, green peas;. duckling duckling rouennais rouennais d à ln la presse; presse; with timbale of young young rabbit; rabbit; young young timbale of duckling Voisin; . gibelotte gibelotte of garentv garenne rabbit rabbit chasseur;. pheasant pheasant d à h la Sainte-Alliance, Sainte-Alliance, aa majestic majestic creation creation from from the the hands hands of of Brillat-Savatrn; Brillat-Savarin; snipe snipe dà lafirc la fine Champagne, dà la Riche; Riche, wild wild duck duck dà lala presse. presse. Vol-au-vent, flans and tarts tarts filled in in many many different ways ways have have for for a very long long time time been regarded regarded as as culinary specialispecialities ties of of Paris. Paris. Special Parisian Parisian fish fish (sea (sea and and freshwater) and and shellfish dishes l'américaine; the the various various matelot4s mate/otés of of dishes are: Lobster Lobster dà I'amdricaine; eels and freshwater fish, for example example matelotes matelotes &t du Moulin de d Ia Ia la R6pie Râpée and dà la la canotiire canotière,'; eel eel dà la la tartare tartare;; carp carpà la canotiire canotière;; bouillabaisse bouillabaisse d à h la parisienne parisienne (doubtless disapproved disapproved of of by natives of Marseilles, but but excellent excellent all al! the same, same, and invented natives of by a a Parisian Parisian master master chef); chef); whiting Bercy, Colbert, Colbert, au by gratin; all aIl manner of of dishes made of sole, brill, turbot, sea sea perch, etc., brill Dugliri, perch, etc., Dugléré, young young turbot turbot an au plat, plat, sole sole d à la normande, normande, sole sole Marguery, Marguery, turbot turbot d à h la parisienne, spring lobster àd la parisieme, coEtilles coquilles Saint-lacques Saint-Jacques dà hla parisienne, parisienne, frogs' legs d la poulette. repertoire are numerous. Among The sauces in the Paris repertoire chasseur, Charcutiire, chasseur. mentioned: Charcutière, the brown sauces may be mentioned: diable, hachée, hachie, moelle and Robert. Colbert, diable, Among the white sauces the following are the best known: Among Choron, Fayot, Biarnaise, Bercy, Béarnaise, Bercy, Bonnefoy, Bonnefoy, Chantilly, Choron, moutarde, poulette, raviIaguipiCre, mariniire, mousseline, moutarde, Laguipière, marinière, Viron. and Véron. gote, Riche and other Parisian of sorne some other random selection selection of Here is is aa random Here peas àd la la parisienne; Ia frangaise, specialities: Green Grem peas specialities: française, àd la pdtis Laon; the of Laon; the partridge Matelote de de Beauvais; Beauvais; the pâtés of Matelote -the of Étampes; Etampes; poultry pâtés pdtis of lark pdtis of of Houdan; poultry the brioche; the puits d'amour oublies; the Paris brioche; dchaudCs; puits d'arnour;" oublies; échaudés; pears of stuffed pears Fdre-en-Tardenois; the stuffed of Fère-en-Tardenois; aniseed bread bread of aniseed the green and Etampes; the the cakes cakes of Compidgne and Provins; the Provins; Faucaucoure; the barley-sugar of Moret and the walnuts of Faucaucoure; of Melun. sugared almonds of

See CULIvIANDES INTERLARDING. INTERLARDING. pIQUAcE PIQUAGE DEs DES VIANDES - See CULI-

NARY NARY METHODS. METHODS. frn^luctnrINTERNATONAL COOKERY. INTERNATONAL COOKERY. cuIsINB CUISINE ÉTRANGÈRE-

Canada cuIsINE Alr{EnIcArxeCOOKERY. CUISINE AMERICAN COOKERY. AMERICAN AMÉRICAINE - Canadadespite the Canada despite cooking persist home cooking Traditions of of home Traditions persist in in Canada the The elsewhere. The on convenience convenience foods growing dependence dependence on growing foods elsewhere. part of of which part to which varies according of home type of home cooking varies according to came from. Europe the the family originally came from. and The Huron Huron and offer. The little to to offer. The native inhabitants had little lived embers, and in the and lived the embers, beans in cooked their their beans Iroquoi Indians cooked Iroquoi maize, to to and crushed crushed maize, of water water and made of mainly on a porridge made pork trotter stew trotter stew However, pork meat. However, or meaL which they added fish or Indian origin. origin. of Indian is sa said is id to be of European rather European or rather cookery, or European cookery, is European Otherwise itit is of Canadian Canadian the basis basis of forms the that forms provincial cookery that provincial Newfoundland, shores of of Newfoundland, the shores and on on the cuisine.In cuisine. In Labrador, and and Swabia and of Mecklenburg, Swabia specialities of rediscover specialities we rediscover we that reigns English cookery that is English Elsewhere, itit is Switzerland. Eisewhere, Switzerland. French Canada guards whole of of French the whole naturally the And naturally supreme. And supreme. regional dishes dishes of France' the traditional traditional regional secrets of of the the secrets the communireligious communiCertain religious of Normandy. Certain those of especially those eSI,ecially forgotten, since fOf'gottelt1. possess old recipes long since still possess ties in in Canada still ties by the the Ursuline France: aa type type of gingerbread made by in France: even in even for ..,example. nuns of of Quebec, Quebec, for Duns .... 'UL.'1J, .... game; reserves of of game; immense reserves with immense country, with rich country, is aa rich Canada is Canada goats of of the the and the the goats moose, and caribou, moose, eat bear, bear, caribou, the Canadians Canadians eat the lakes. innumerable lakes. in the the innumerable Fish abound abound in Rocky Mountains. Mountains. Fish Rocky These grow in in abundance. abundance. These barley grow oats and and barley maize, oats Wheat, maize, Wheat, part of principal part most CanaCanaof most form the the principal cereals form energy-giving cereals energy-giving publishes Agriculture publishes Ministry of of Agriculture The Ministry meal. The midday meal. dians' midday dians' houseto encourage encourage hou in order order to of cereal cereal recipes, in booklets of booklets sepresentation of cereals. of cereals. their presentation wives to to be be adventurous adventurous in their wives the tree the maple, of the maple, the tree all, the the country of is, above above ail, Canada is, Canada thaws Whenever the the thaws national emblem. Whenever the country's country's national that isis the that sap the sap and the pierced by collectors, and the sap sap collectors, by the its bark bark isis pierced come, its come, to aa It isis boiled boiled to sweet. It slightly sweet. and slightly clear and flows like like water: water: clear flows brown maple maple sugar, light brown with the the light which, together with syrup, which, jams, oelfulniIll1! perfuming and jams, sauces and biscuits, sauces form the the basis basis of cakes, biscuits, of honey. aroma ofhoney. air with with the aroma the Canadian Canadian air the South The cookery cookery of of South America -- The Soutt America and South Central and Central or Portuguese Portuguese Spanish or version of of Spanish America isis aa spicier spicier version America

and various dishes dishes and to various L') - Name applied to IMPf RATRICE (A V)cold dessert, dessert, aa Rice àd l'impératrice, I'impdratice, aa cold is Rice Among these these is cakes. cakes. Among given under RICE. is given recipe for for which which is recipe given to to aa variety of The name name given Irrrpfnnrn -- The IMPERIAL. IMPÉRIALE IMPERIAL. holding about about 44 litres plum and large boUle to aa large bottle holding and also also to plum and (3f quarts, wines and quarts, 4 quarts), which for Bordeaux Bordeaux wines which is is used used for 4| quarts), (3! for spirits. spirits. for dishes various dishes (A V) to various applied to Name applied L') -- Name IMPÉRIALE IMPERIALE (À kidneys, gras, cocks' and kidneys, combs and cocks' combs garnished with garnished with trufles,foie gras, garnishes. other similar similar )o;<1JlIU,~U\;;;". and other and be would which wou meal which An improvised improvised meal IMPROMPTU -- An IMPROMPTU Id be pot-luck meal in English. meal in English. as aa pot-Iuck described described as with aa sharp sharp incisions witb shallow incisions To make make shallow INcISER -- To INCISE. INCISER INCISE. grilled or or fried. fried. to be be grilled fish that that isis to of fish knife in in the the skin skin of knife

in other flavouring flavouring in To steep steep herbs herbs or or other INFITsER -- To INFUSE. INFUSER INFUSE. flavour. liquid ab absorbs the flavour. the liquid until the boiling liquid, liquid, until sorbs the boiling custards isis of creams creams and and custards Milk used used in in the the preparation of Milk lemon or orange or lemon or orange cinnamon" or flavoured by infusing vanilla, cinnamon, by infusing flavoured rind in in it. it. rind preparation of flavoured by by the the sauces isis flavoured of sauces Wine used usod in in the the preparation Wine SOI

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONALCOOKERY (depending upon anisitu (depending upon tbe the region), region), wrule while tha! that of of Central Central cuisine America, and and of particular, isis individual of Cuba Cuba in in particuJar, individual inin characcharacAmerica, (Cuba boasts ter. (Cuba boasts aa wide wide range range of produce, ail of food food produce, all of of ter. quality.) excellent quality,) excellent Delicately fleshed fleshed fish fish are are caught caught in in the the Caribbean Caribbean Sea Sea Delicately and in in the the Gulf Gulf of Mexico. The The best of Mexico, best of of these theseare are cabrilla, cabrilla, and cabra mora, mora, cherna cherna criaI/a. criolla, and and cherna cherna americana, americana, Tbey They are are cabra all spindle-shaped spindle-shaped and and vividly vividly coloured, coloured. aJl In the the samc same seas seas are are found found fisb fish that that belong belong to to the the same same In family as perch: the as the the perch: rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the rabirrubia, the pargo colorado, the the family pargo amaril/a, amaiillo, to to name name only only aa few, few. pargo A specics species closely closely related related to to the the above above includes includes the the ronco ronco A carbonero, tbe the boca boca colorada, colorada, the the ronco ronco amarillo, amarillo, the the carbonero, jeniguana, etc, etc. Fish Fish of of the the mackerel mackerel family family also also abound abound in in jeniguana, these wa waters. these ters, All these fish fish are are scrved grilled or served boiled, boiled, grilled or fried, fried. Sorne Some are are Allthese considered more more suitable suitable for for marinating, marinating. considered The oysters oysters caught caught off off the the shores shores of of Cuba Cuba are are delicious, delicious. The They include include aa va(Îcty variety with with aa completely completely wrute white shell, shell. They Among the the shellfish shellfish is is aa lype giant prawn prawn (sorne (some weightype of of giant weighAmong (14 oz,), g. (14 ing as as much much as 400 g, as 400 prawns are oz.). These These prawns are aa blackishing blue colour colour when when they they emerge emerge from from the the water water but but cooking cooking blue changes them them to to red, red. changes High-quality meat meat is is imported imported from from the the United United States; States; Higb-quality poorer home-produced the poorer home-produced beef beef is is consumed consumed by by the the country country the people. The The latter latter cornes comes from from oxen oxen which, which, working working in in aa hot people, hot yield Jean, country as as they they do, do, yield lean, not very tasly tasty meaL meat. country not very Veal is better, mutton is mediocre, good but pork is of of good mediocre, but pork is Yeal is better, mutton is quality. Poultry Poultry is is scarce scarce and and of of inferior inferior quality quality in in Central quality, America. Eggs, of of course, course, are are also also scarce, scarce. America, Eggs, grows aa wide Cuba grows wide range range of of vegetables, vegetables, many of them Cuba many of similar to to those those found found in in our our markets. similar markets, In ln Central America there plants such are edible edible plants such as as manioc, Chinese potatoes, there are manioc. Chinese pOk'\toes. yams, Indian corn, (the large corn, plantain in yams, Indian plantain (the large banana banana uldd used in cooking), and small Indian Indian pumpkin (cahbaza). There There cooking), and the the small pumpkin (calabaza), grapefruit, citrons, are grapefruit, several varieties are citrons, severa! varieties of of oranges, oranges, lemons, lemollS, sour red and and yellow sour limes, limes, mangoes, mangoes, guavas, guavas, red yellow bananas, bananas, anonas, coconuts, avocado pears, anonas, coconuts, avocado pears, custard eus lard apples, appJes, etc. etc, The special dishes The special dishes of of Central Central Am'erica Am'erica are are all ail highly highly spiced and spiced and most most of of them them contain contain green green peppers. peppers, Fish Fish dishes dishes qdole include include cod cod dà la la créole (bacalao (bacalao dà la i11 criolla); criol/a), cod cod Biscay-style; Biscay-style, rnarinated West Indian camarones) fried fish ; West marinatedfish; Indian red red prawns prawns ((camarones) fried in in orl; cherna cherna with wi/h onions onions;; octopus oc/opus with wi/h pimentos. pimentas, oil; Meat Meat dishes dishes include include olla ol/a podrida, podrida, aahearty hearty stew stew made made from from a a variety variety of of meats, meats, found found in in the the parts parts of of the the country country of of Iberian lberian origin; origin; sancocho, sancocho, which which is is a a type type of of olh alla podrida; podrida; puchero, Spanish-style pot-au-feu; pot-au-feu; monteria, monteria, aa chicken crucken and puchero, aa Spanish-style tomato tomato hash hash garnished garnished with with yams, yams, potatoes potatoes and and white white Indian corn cobs rice surrounded Indiancom cobs and and served served with with Cuban-style Cuban-stylericesurrounded with with bananas bananas fried fricd in in oil; oil; various various types types of of meat meal balls balls called albondiguillas albondiguillas de de carne; carne; tasajo tasaJo d à la la cubaine cubaine (minced (minced cured cured beef in tomato tomato sauce sauce and and served served with with CubanCubanbeef simmered simmered in style style rice rice and and fried fried bananas); bananas); pork pork chops chops Cuban-style, Cuban-slyle, or with with rice, rice, or or dà I'espagnole; l'espagnole; marinated marinated rabbit; rabbil; tarnales. lamales, Nearly Nearly all ail South South American American dishes dishes are are served served with with rice. rice, This is prepared, prepared, Cuban-style, Cuban-style, dà la la criole créole or or dà h la valencienne. valencienne, This is The vegetable The vegctable specialities specialities of of the the country country include include aa variety variety of of ways ways of of preparing preparing potatoes potatoes which wbich along along with with ricen riee, bananas bananas and and Indian Indian com corn take take the the place place of of our our bread bread and and most most of of our our vegetables vegetabJes in in the the diet diet of of the the natives natives of of the the West West Indies lndies and and Central Central America; America; bananas bananas and and plantain, plantain, eaten eaten raw raw and and used used in in cooking; cooking; Japanese Japanese and and Porto Porto Rican Rican yams, yams, served served braised, braised. or or in in hazelnut hazelnut butter, butter, or or dà la la criole; créole; roots roots of of cassava cassava or or manioc manioc prepared prepared like like yams; yams; gombos gombos prepared prepared dà I'espagnole l'espagnole or or dà la i11 criole créole,; avocado avocado dà la i11 crdole créole or or in in salad, salad, palm palm cabbage cabbage in in salad. salad, The The orchards orchards of of Central Cenlral America America contain contain many many delicious delicious fruits, fruits, most most of ofwhich wruch are are exported exported to to Europe. Europe,

The large large custard custard apple apple isis the the biggest biggest member member of of the the The anona family, family. This This fruit, fruit, which which can can weigh weigh as much as as much anona as 33 kg, kg. (6i lb,) lb.) isis sometimes sometimes called called sour sour sop sop in in English, English. When When itit (61 reaches maturÏly pleasant aroma, maturity ilit exudes exudes aa pleasant aroma. !ts Its dense dense white white reacbes flesh, with with large large black black seeds, seeds, isis slightly slightly acid acid and and aa tasty tasty flesh, beverage isis obtained obtained by by crushing pulp and crushing the the pulp and mixing mixing itit with with beverage four or or five five times times ilS its volume volume of of water. water. four (small custard Anonas (small custard apples) apples) are are shaped shaped rather rather like like Anonas artichokes. The The crcam-coJoured cream-coloured flesh flesh isis sweet sweet but rather but rather artichokes, insipid. They They are are eaten raw. eaten raw. insipid, The mamey mamey of grow to of Santo Santo Domingo Domingo can can grow to the The the size size of of aa small melon, yellow. ItIt con melon. Ils Its skin skin isis truck thick and and its its flesh flesh yellow, contains small tains very large stone. Ca large stone, Called the apricot apricot of of the the Tropics, Tropics, ilit has, has, aa very lied the apart from from the pulp, no the col colour of its its pulp, no similarity similarity to to Ihis this fruit. fruit. apart our of The fruit fruit isis usually usually stewed, stewed. A A certain certain bitterness bitterness remains remains The whatever method preparation isis chosen. method of of preparation chosen. whatever The red red mamey, mamey, despite despite its its name, name, belongs belongs to to aa different different The family. Its Its other other name name in in Central Central America America isis sapota. sapota. The The family, skin of tbis this fruit fruit isis woody woody and and iL~ its strawberry-coloured strawberry-coloured flesh flesh skin has the consistcncy consistency of aa ripe banana, banana. It is is usually eaten eaten raw, raw. has Guavas come come in in several several varieties, varieties. Sorne Some are are orangeorangeGuavas shaped, others pear-shaped, others others pear-shaped, others again again look look like large figs, figs. shaped. The ~esh generally eaten is insipid and and is is generally raw. It may also eaten raw. also be be The flesh is jellies. stewed or made into jellies, stewed shape according to their species, species. Usually Mangoes vary in shape pears both they resemble pears both in in colour colour and and shape, Their pulp is shape. Their they juicy but slightly bitter in in flavour. flavour. very juicy citron isis the the biggest biggest fruit fruit of the the lemon family, family. This The citron fruit is hardly hardly ev ever It is usually preserved. fruit cr eaten raw. raw, Il preserved, grapefruit is the biggest fruit of the orange family, The grapefruit family. In it is called either erther pomelos, English pomelos, or by its EngJish Central America it name. name, Kumquats are small fruits of the orange orange family. Kumquats family, They are eaten raw like about the size and shape of olives and may be ealm almonds since their skin is tender and not bitter. They may stewed, or pickled also be stewed. pickled in vinegar. From the Argentine (Spanish influence) to Brazil (PortuArgentine (Spanish guese guese influence), from Peru to Bolivia the same dishes (with (with only slight variations) appear again and only variations) and the same spices spices appear again. again, Beer and rum are drunk in Columbia, excellent beer beer and chica in Bolivia. Bolivia, There Thcre are vineyards in the Argentine, Argentine, and Uruguay and Peru. Peru, Chile is the largest wine-producing wine-producing area (see WINES), (see WINES). United StatesStates- The The history history of of cooking cooking of of the the United United States is closely closeJy related to to the history history of the country. country, When the early settlen settlers arrived, arrived, they found the the Indians, Indians, who had had been been living living off off the the land land for for centuries, eating eating the the animals animais and and birds birds of of the the plains plains and and forests; foresls; fish fish and shellfish shellfish from from the the seas, seas, lakes, fruits and nuts; nuts; aa great lakes, rivers and streams; and wild fruits variety of of greens, greens, and corn (maize). (maize), Most Most of the the settlers, seulers, beginning in the the 1500s, 1500s, followed followed beginning with with the the Spanish Spanish explorers explorers in by in the the 1600s, 1600s, and and not not long long after, the the Dutch, by the the British British in French, French, Germans, Gerrnans, and and Scandinavians, Seandinavians, arrived arrived in the the New New World native plants plants to to start aa World with with domestic domestic animals animais and native new new life life comparable comparable to 10 the the one one they Ihey had had left left behind. behind, Many Many of of them them incorporated incorporated into into their their traditional traditional eating habits habits certain certain Indian Indian foods, foods, especially especially corn. corn, By By the the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, people people from from every every corner corner of of the the globe globe had had come come to to this this country, country, settling seuling in in different different areas. areas, Thus Thus regional regional cooking cooking in in the the United United States States can can be be attributed attributed in in part part to to the the resources resources of ofan an area, area, but but also also to to the the people people who who settled seuled there Ihere and and adapted adapted their their native native cooking cooking habits habits to to what what nature nature had had to to offer. offer. Many Many factors factors enter enter into into the the American American gastronomical gastronomical picture. important are the the natural natural resources resources of of the the picture, Most Most important whole country, modern modern food food handling handling and and rapid rapid transportatransportawhole country, tion, tion, food food technology, technology, nutritional nutritional emphasis, emphasis, and and comcommunication. munication, 502 502

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY When When Spanish Spanish monks monks planted planted aa few few vines vines around around Los Los little had they century, eighteenth in the Angeles idea that that Angeles in the eighteenth century, they had little idea 200years 200 years later la ter America America would would be be the the second second biggest biggest winewineproducing in the the world. world. producing continent continent in (thanks however ago, century ItIt was was not not until until aa century ago, however (thanks to to aa Hungarian Hungarian called called Harszthy) Harszthy) that that California California became became the the centre of the the American American wine wine industry. industry. centre of American as 'dry'wines 'dry' wines (white (white or or red red American wines wines are are classified classified as or 'dessert' wines 14°), and and 'sweet' 'sweet' or 'dessert' wines. wines. wines not not exceeding exceeding l4'), Some of the the grower; grower; others others have have European European Sorne bear bear the the name name of names. names. States. A of alcohol a1cohol is is consumed consumed in in the the United United States. A great great deal deal of also homeThis This ls is mainly mainly derived derived from from cereals' cereals. There There is is also home*!gl9' produced produced gin gin and and imported imported Scotch Scotch whisky. whisky. fu On q. the whole, however, Bourbon whisky whisky which whicb however, Americans Americans prefer prefer their their own own Bourbon is distilled distilled from from maize, maize, or or Canadian Canadian rye rye whisky. whisky.

The climatic climatic and and geographical geographical conditions conditions of of the the United United The Statesare are so sovaried varied that that from from the the fertile fertile valleys, valleys, vast vast forests forests States and plains, plains, lakes, lakes, rivers rivers and and streams, streams, and and extensive extensive coastal coastal and regions, almost almost every every food food known known to to man man can can be be produced produced regions, With modern modern technology, technology, the the produce produce of of witbin its its borders. borders. With within any one one section section of ofthe the country country can can be be enjoyed enjoyed in in any any other. other. any For example, example, oranges oranges and and grapefruit grapefruit grown grown in in Florida Florida or or For California are are sold sold in in every every State State in in the the Union. Union. Maine Maine California lobsters are are served served in in Texas, Texas, and and oysters oysters and and crabs crabs from from lobsters in Chicago. Chicago. This This means means that that very very Maryland are are served served fresh fresh in Maryland few foods foods are are unique unique to to any any one one area, area, but but there there are are still still few as their their own' own. To To special dishes dishes that that certain certain localities localities claim claim as special mention aa few. few, baked baked beans beans and and brown brown bread bread belongs belongs to to mention Boston, and and lobster lobster stew stew to to Maine. Maine. Fried Fried chicken, chicken, hominy hominy Boston, grits and and pecan pecan pie pie are are at at home home south south of of the the Mason-Dixon Mason-Dixon grits line; roast roast pork pork tastes tastes best best in in Iowa; Iowa; and New New Orleans Orleans is is line; where one one finds finds the tbe best best Creole Creole cooking. cooking. where Food technology, technology, which which concerns concerns itself itself in part with the the Food of food, takes takes much much of the hard processing and and packaging packaging of processing work of food food preparation preparation out of the tbe home or restaurant restaurant work kitchen. This, This, together together with witb country-wide distribution, distribution, kitchen. tends to to standardise American food. The whole country is tends highly nutrition-conscious. nutrition-conscious. Great emphasis emphasis is placed placed on the mineral higb vitamin and minerai importance of eating foods with high importance for its quite as as much and sold mucb for sold quite content; food is advertised and food value value as as for for its its enjoyment. enjoyment. Food'fads Foodfads extolling the food and come and food or health-giving properties or another come properties of one one food health-giving gO,but nutritional health remain go, but the basic requirements for nutritional constantly in the minds of most Americans, professional and constantly domestic, who plan meals. subThe business, with contributing submain contributing with its its main The food food business, One divisions, represents a major industry. One of American industry. major part of books, magazine subdivision magazine with cook cookbooks, communication, with is communication, subdivision is proarticles, television proradio and and television columns, radio newspaper columns, articles, newspaper grammes of and preparation of grammes ail all dealing with the production and gourmets who who food. The United of gounnets share of its share can boast its States can United States strive communicamedia of of communicavarious media the various strive constantly, through the try. tions, to raise country. of the the coun gastronomic standards standards of raise the the gastronomic most Hotels as in in most States, as United States, in the the United restaurants in Hotels and and restaurants In countries, luxurious. In most luxurious. the most to the simplest to the simplest from the range from countries, range Francisco, large and San San Francisco, York, Chicago New York, Chicago and as New cities such such as large cities there food from from in food specialise in which specialise restaurants which are many many restaurants there are other resgenerally, the the better better reslarge cities cities generaUy, In large countries. In other countries. taurants international with international cooking with American cooking combine American taurants combine cooking, predominant ininthe predominant having the variety having French variety the French cooking, the fluence. breadth length and and breadth the length across the and across cities and Outside the the cities fluence. Outside of restaurants inns, restaurants small inns, of small thousands of are thousands there are country there of the the country and specialising inin establishments specialising of the the establishments hotels. Sorne Some of and botels. regional reputations. national reputations. attained national have attained cookery have regional cookery Peculiarly dedicated toto eating-places dedicated the eating-places are the American are Peculiarly American eating possible. aspossible. money as little money forasaslittle possible for quickly as aspossible asquickly eating as These quick-order meals mealsare are where quick-order lunch counters counters where include luncb These include served, from aa servethemselves themselves from customersserve wherecustomers cafeteriaswhere served, cafeterias ri ety of wide hamburger andhamburger hot-dogand ubiquitous hot-dog theubiquitous foods, the variety of foods, wide va stands, patronsinin areserved served totopatrons mealsare wheremeals and drive-ins drive-ins where stands,and their theircars. cars. Certain surprise thatsurprise habits that gastronomical habits American gastronomical Certain American visitors people mostpeople withwhicb whichmost thespeed speed with arethe country are thecountry visitors totothe eat, plate, onaaplate, togetheron areserved servedtogether thatare foodstbat numberof offoods eat,tbe the number the vegeandvegejelliesand meatand withmeat servod with conserves served andconserves sweetjellies the sweet tables, These produceused. used.These quantities of ofdairy dairy produce great quantities and the thegreat tables, and are thenature natureofof butthe characteristics, but Americancharacteristics, areadmittedly admittedlyAmerican the population, itspopulation, natureofofits internationalnature theinternational country,and andthe thecountry, make such, cookeryasassuch, Statescookery UnitedStates defineUnited impossibletotodefine makeititimpossible other producingand and capableofofproducing Americaisiscapable thatAmerica thantotosay saythat otherthan cooking American FavouriteAmerican world.Favourite foodinintbe theworld. thefinest finestfood cookingthe foods corn lobster,corn chicken,lobster, ham,cbicken, chops,ham, lambchops, steaks,lamb foodsare: are:steaks, on pieand icecream. cream. andice cob,apple applepie onthe thecob,

jam: gerüllte gefiillte Tascherl Tascherl with jam: pastries filled filled witb Small pastries Small (p6tisserie viennoise) viennoise) (pâtisserie

Austrian AUTRIcHIENNE - Austrian cursINE AUTRICHIENNECOOKERY. CUISINE AUSTRIAN COOKERY. AUSTRIAN Oriental and Oriental German and Italian, Gennan contains ltalian, and contains refined and cuisine isis refined cuisine Hungarian of Hungarian goulasch' which which isisof The traditional traditional goulasch, influences. The influences. thin sasauce, very thin in aavery beefcooked ofsaut6ed consists of origin, consists origin, sautéed beef cooked in uce, also served served peppers are arealso peppers. Sweet Sweet peppeTS garnistred with sweet peppers. with sweet garnisbed with made with known.ItIt isismade wellknown. beef isis weil boiled beef Viennese boiled rt,rffed. Viennese stuffed. and salads and by saJads accompanied by and isisaccompanied meat and tender meat well-hung, tender well-hung, escalope, vealescalope, Wiener-schnitzel isis aa veal iompotes. Wiener-schnitzel various compotes. various butter. clarifiedbutter. friedininclarified thenfried breadcrumbed, tben breadcrumbed, pastries: puddingsand andpastries: ofpuddings country of all the thecountry above ail Austria isisabove Austria known. wellknown. areweil andSacher-lOrte Sacher-torteare torrcand Linzertorte Mehlspeisen, Linzer Mehlspeisen, with boundwitb eggsbound andeggs flourand quenelles made of flour madeof arequenelles Nockerl are Nockerl more andmore butsweeter sweeterand Baden but ofBaden Spdtzle of theSpiitzle similartoto tbe milk, similar milk, served poppyseeds and andserved with poppyseeds aresprinkled sprinkled with They are delicate.They delicate. out rolledout doughrolled verystiff stiffdough ofaavery consists of Strudelconsists with cream. cream.Strudel with kindofapple of apple of akind layersofa withlayers andover overwitb foldedover overand thenfolded thinlythen thinly pancakewhich whichisis jam.Kaiser-schmarren sweetpancake thicksweet Kaiser-schmarrm isisaathick jam. these Thetriumpb firms.Tbe triumphofofthese panasasthe mixturefinns. themixture thepan divided ininthe divided pruneswitb with Zchwetschgen-kniidel - - prunes theZchwetschgen-knodel Viennesesweets sweetsisisthe Viennese wrappedinina a thenwrapped sugar,then lumpsofofsugar, bylumps replacedby theirstones stonesreplaced their fried. pastryand potatopastry andfried. veryligbt lightpotato very quantitiesofofred red Largequantities lager.Large excellentlager. makesananexcellent Austriamakes Austria European CentralEuropean produced. See SeeCentral alsoproduced. arealso winesare whitewines andwhite and section. thissection Cookeryininthis Cookery . the Belgiumisisthe BELGE- - Belgium cutsINEBELGE COOKERY.CUISINE BELGIAN BELGIANCOOKERY. subandsubcityand thecity Thecitizens citizensofofthe fairs'.The 'puddingfairs'. country countryofof'pudding celebrating dayscelebrating threedays spendthree forexample, example,spend Bruisels,for urbs urbsofoiBrussels, although foralthough greatlove food,for loveofoffood, witha agreat countrywith theirs. theirs.ItItisisa acountry French delicaciesofofFrench thedelicacies wholeheartedlytotothe surrendering surrenderingwholeheartedly hisown own faithfultotobis hasremained remainedfaithful gourmetbas Belgiangourmet cuisine, theBelgian cuisine,the and springand vert(a(aspring eelauauvert includeeel TheseincJude national specialities.These nationalspecialities. celebrated whichthe thecelebra forwhich carbonnadefor Flemishcarbonnade dish);Flemish ted summer summerdish);

503 503

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL national beer, beer, gueze larnbic, seems specially designed; national choezels au au madire; fricadelles bruxefoises (fried mince choezels balls); l'oie l'oieàdl'instar I'instar deVisé (goose Vis6-style); hochepot Yisi(goose balls); gantois (Ghent (Ghent hotchpot); hotchpot); kouyn pruneu (rabbit with kouynmet metpruneu gantois prunes),essentially essentially aaFlemish Flemishdish; dish;hop hopshoots; shoots;Brussels prunes), Brussels pdt6namurois mdjvg; pâté (Namurbrioche namuroisbrioché briochb (Namur brioche pastry pie); endive; andthe thesucculent succulent dishes dishesàdlahliégeoise (calves'kidneys, lirks, liigeoise(calves' and crayfish, etc.) etc.)which whichfor for many many food foodloyers loversare arethe the jewels of Belgian cuisine. cuisine. The Thesauces sauces are areail allseasoned seasonedpredominantly predominantly juniper berries, with juniper givingthe berries, giving thedishes dishesaadistinctive distinctive flavour. flavour. Oneof of Belgium's Belgium'snational national dishes dishesisiswaterzoii One waterzoii (spouting water). Once Oncemade madeof of fish fish from from the theFlemish Flemish coast, water). coast, it now consists of of chickens chickens from from the the fannlands, farmlands, especially consists especially those those round Ghent. Ghent. ItIt isisalso also one one of of the the most most ancient ancient of round ofBelgian belgian dishes. Legend Legend has has itit that that Charles Charles VVconsidered considered itit one dishes. oneof ofthe the (and there best (and painting inin humorous there isis aa painting humorous vein best vein by by Herbo Herbo toto illustrate this). this). iIlustrate Brillat-Savarin, once once initiated initiated into into the the delights Jjr:IlHllI-~~a\larm. delights of of Belgian Belgian cuisine, geatly enjoyed waterzoii, waterzoii, Namur Namur pie, pie, and and the thedishes dishes distinctly Latin flavour yith aa distinctly flavour such such as as those with those àd lah liégeoise. liigeoise. L'oie àd l'instar I'instar de Visi surprised dc Visé surprised but did not but did L'oie not tempt tempt him. him. The The origin of of the the recipe, although comparatively comparatively recent, origin recent, isis much much disputed. It It isis said to owe its creation creation to disputed. police to an an angry police inspector who, years ago, who, sixt sixty ago, was was in inspector Y years in charge of police police headquarters in in the the channing charming Meuse Meuse village village of Vise. One headquarters One day day he was called upon was called upon to to settle settle aa dispute dispute concerning goose that he concerning aa goose that had wandered wandered onto onto the the public highway highway and had and been been run run over over by by carter. The The owner goose demanded owner of the the goose aa carter. demanded nine nine francs francs compensation from from the the carter carter and and said said that compensation that he he could could keep keep the the dead bird. bird. The The carter carter refused refused to pay more dead to pay more than than six six francs francs said, the goose goose was was no no use since, he said, use to to him. 'As you do do not wish wish to to have the bird,' 'As bird,' the police mspec:tor inspector said to to the the carter, carter, 'pay him him the the six six francs francs you have offered.' .As for you, Then he he said to to the owner of the goose, goosg 'As you, since you are detennined determined to yourself of the to rid rid yourself the creature, creature, here are this fellow's fellow's six six francs francs and here are and here are three three from from me. me. That That makes which is you asked. is the the amount makes nine, which amount you asked. l'li I'll take take the the goose myself.' The police inspector took the goose home and prepared it The i" way. He in tlrg the following way. He trussed and and placed placed it in aa large cooking pot, together with the giblets, and and covered covered it wiih salted water. This was brought to the boil and skimmed. He addod_2 added 2 heads heads of garlic, some sorne onion, onion, a few carrots, aa bouquet garni,2 garni, 2 cloves cloyes and several several white white peppercorns. pepperc:orns. When When the bird was was cooked, cooked, he carefully jointed it it and simmered the the pieces gently in equal parts of goose fat and butter. butter. He He then then made made aa white wrute roux from from goose fat, flour, and and a little little goose goose stock. This, when when boiled, boiled, produced produced a a rather rather thick truck sauce. sauce. He He then then added added 44 egg egg yolks, a fav few pats pats of of butter, butter, and and cream. cream. He He sieved sieved the the sauce, sauce, and tossed tossed in in a few few cloves cl oves of of garlic garlic previously previously cooked cooked in in milk. milk. Finally Finally he he arranged arranged the the goose portions on on aa large large plate plate and and poured poured the the sauce over over goose portions them. them. Another Another recipe recipe appears appears under under GOOSE. GOOSE.

The Thenational nationalpâtisserie pdtisserie specialityisisrétèche: ritiche:flaky pastry flakypastry stuffed stuffedwith withvegetables, vegetables,cheese cheeseoror fruit.Hungarian Hungarianwines winesare are excellent, excellent,the themost mostfamous famousbeing beingTokay. Tokay.There Thereisisalso alsoanan apricot apricotliqueur liqueurcalled calledbarack. barack. Beer (Pilsen)isisthe Beer(Pilsen) thenational nationalbeverage beverageininCzecboslovalda. Czechoslovakia. Pork, Porlga abeef pot-au-fan(hovesy beefpot-au-feu (hovesymaso), potatoes,goose, maso),potatoes, goose,and and cabbage cabbageare arethe thestaple staplefoods. foods. The TheOrient Orienthas hasbeen beenthe themain maininfluence influenceininRumanian Runanian cookery, cookery, which which isisbased basodon porkand onfish, fish,pork game.The andgame. Thewines wines are areexcellent. excellent. Bulgarian Bulgariancookery cookery isisaa blend blend of Turkishand ofTurkish Russian andRussian influences. influences.Tchorba Tchorba soup yogurt reign soupand andyogurt reignsupreme. supreme.There There isis aaplum plumspirit spiritcalled calledslivovitz. slivovitz. Yugoslavian Yugoslavian cookery cookery isisasasvaried varied asasthe theraces racesand andthe the climate. climate. Serbs, Serbs, Croats, Croats, Slovenes Slovenes and and Bosnians Bosnians ail all eat eat H",ne."r,,,n stews, Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and Hungarian stews, Italian pastas and Turkish pastries, and drink beer and andwine. wine. In InGreece, Greece, there there isisbeef beefinin the the north, north Jean leanmutton mutton ininthe the south, south, fish, fish, olive oliveoil, (see Turkish oil,mézés mizis (see Turkish cookery cookery below) below) and and ouzo (the raki of the other Mediterranean coast) everywhere. ouzo (the raki of the other Meditenanean coast) everywhere. Greek Greek wines wines are are generally very sweet. sweet.Samos S.amos isis one oneof of them, counterpart of the hVIr!n)mel hydromel of of the the Ancient Ancient Greeks. Greeks. Retsina is flavoured with resin.

.China and CHINESE CHINESE COOKERy. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE CHINOISE cHrNorsn -- 'China and two peoples to France,' Curnonsky said, 'are 'are the peoples the only only two to have have created aa culsme caisitu that isis inseparably linked linked with with good manners ners and and courtesy.' courtesy.' Since Since the the time of the Celestial Celestial Empire, the Chinese art and an Chinese have have considered considered their their cuisine czisine an anartand an important important expression expression of of their their country's country's civilisation. civilisation. Chinese Chinese cookery cookery in in restaurants restaurants abroad abroad may may not not be be aa true true reflection reflection of of the the original. Preparation is a painstaking business, business, with with the the cook carefully scooping out bones and shr'edodInlg shredding fowl, fowl, meat meat and and fish fish into into strips that can be easily m2lnI]pulatfx1 manipulated by by chopsticks. These These existed aa long long time time before before Europe Europe had had the the fork, and and are are made made of of bamboo, bamboo, blackwood, blackwood, ivory, silver or plastic. silver or Most Most of of the the dishes dishes are are common common to to the the whole whole of of China, China. with with rice rioe as principal ingredient. as the the principal ingredient. Besides Besides taking taking the place the place of of bread, bread, itit can can be be aa main main course, course, an an accompaniment, accompaniment, steamed, boiled or fried. Northern China (including Peking) steamed, boiled or fried. Northern China (including peking) is where highly is highly seasoned seasoned dishes dishes are are to to be be found; found; Nankin, Nankin, "''''''''!5'''''1, Shanghai, central China prefer sweet China and and Szechuan Szechuan prefer sweet dishes. dishes. Canton, Canton, in the the south, south, is is the the gastronomic capital capital of of China. China. The soya bean is the basic ingredient. Soy The soya bean is the other basic ingredient. Soy sauce sauce (cho-you) the Vietnamese Vietnamese nuoc the reasons reasons (cho-you) like like the nuoc nam, nam, is is one one of of the is described as 'a form of why Chinew Chinese cuisine why cuisine is described as 'a form of dietetics, dietetics. 5,000 years old'. old'. 5,000 ne st and shark 's fin soup are based Salangane's nest sottp and shark's fm sorry are based on on chicken stock. stock. The The classical method method of of cooking cooking is is by by chicken steaming. Eel, Eel, goose goose and and duck duck are are cooked cooked in in this tbis way. way. A A steaming. philosopher, Lao Lao Tesu, Tesu, once once said: said: 'Govem 'Govern the the Empire Empire as as philosopher, carefuUy as as you you would would cook cook aa small small fish.'The fish.' The fruits fruits of of the the sea sea carefully much respected in in China. China. are much are twenty-four hours hours in in advance) advance) LacEtered duck (preparod twenty-four with pineapple, pineapple, is aa great great classical classical dish. Chicken is prepared with is ,.,,""hr .......... n-'" or in sweetalmonds, bamboo bamboo shoots, Chinese mushrooms almonds, or in sweetand-sour sauce sauce (like (like pork). and-sour Only aa glass glass of ofwarm wann yellow wine (rice wine) is drunk with Only the meal. me al. Jasmine Jasmine tea tea is served afterwards. It has the been known there there since since the the year 2000 n.c. There are two known main of tea: green tea types of tea: green tea (tsing tcha) which is dried in the sun, red tea tea which which isis artificially dried and destined for export. and red practically impossible Im]posslb,le to imitate Chinese ItIt isis practically cookery outside the the Far Far East, East, but dishes dishes can can be be give'n given a 'Chinese outside a 'Chinese flavour' using such products as rice, soya beans, spices, flavour' by using such products as rice, soya beans, spices, or scented scented mushrooms mushrooms (sold (sold dried dried in food ginger, black or in food that specialise specialise in in exotic exotic foods). foods). Swallows' Swallows' nests and shops that nests and

CENTRAL CENTRAL EUROPEAN EUROPEAN AND AND BALKAN BALKAN COOKERY. COOKERY. cuIsINE CUISINE DE DE L'BURopE L'EUROPE cENTRALE CENTRALE ET ET DEs DES BALKANS BALKANS _ - First First in in

importance 11'",... ,.-"rt",nf'p and and distinction distinction comes cornes lfungary, symbolised symbolised for for goulasch vsby and paprika. paprika. The The latter, latter, however, isis aa recent recent us goulasch and innovation, innovation, dating dating from from the the Turkish Turkish occupation. occupation. paprikaPaprikaflavoured flavoured dishes dishes include include goulasch goulasch (meat (meat soup soup or or ltew), stew), pdrkdlt porkolt (a (a thicker thicker stew stew in in which which onion onion predominates), predominates), tokany tokany (with (with the the meat meat thinly thinly sliced); sliced); paprikaihe paprikache (stew (stew made made with with white white meat meat or or fish fish and and flavoured flavoured with with sour sour cream) cream) and and szekelygylyas szekelygylyas (pork, solu sour crearn cream and and sauerkraut\. sauerkraut). Chanlctlem;t1c ingredients ingredients of of Hungarian Hungarian cuisinc cuisine are are pork pork Characteristic and andgoose goosefat, fat, and and large largequantities quantitiesof ofonion. onion. Thefogas ThefagasofofLake LakeBalaton Balatonisisaafamous famousvariety varietyof offish. fish.

504 Lambon onskewers skewers with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and peppers (Phot. Nicolas) Lamb with bacon, tomatoes, lemon and pepperc (phot. Nicolas)

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Dutch cookery cookery Dutch

Fruit Fruit pudding pudding (Claire) (Claire)

Soup with Soupwith meat balls ballsand rneat and vermicelli vermicelli

pancakes in packets. sharks' fins fins are are sold sold tinned, tinned, rice rice pancakes in packets. sharks' Sauerkrautis origin. of Chinese origin. Sauerkraut is ofChinese

prime materials prime materials cooked grilling,frying by roasting, roasting,grilling, cooked by frying or orbaking baking give food can be relied relied on can be on to to give food which which isis not good toto eat not only onlygood eat but but isis also also easily easily digested. digested. pies and Puddings, Puddings, pies and tarts tarts are part of are another another important important part of English great many English cooking. cooking. AA great many different different recipes recipes for for baked, baked, boiled puddings using boiled and and steamed steamed puddings using mainly flour, fat, fat, mainly flour, eggs given in eggs and and fruit fruit are are given in any any English English basic basic cookery cookery book.book the puddings available the variety variety of of puddings probably greater available isisprobably greater than than min any any other other country country inin the the world. world. The The main main meal meal of of the the day day usually puddings or usually includes includes one one of of these these puddings or one one with with milk milk asas the pie or pastry the main main ingredient, ingredient, or or itit may may be be aa pie or tart tart having having pastry as as one one of of its its main main ingredients. ingredients. Cakes, Cakes, scones scones and and biscuits biscuits also also feature feature in Englishcookery, in English cookery, and and are are usually usually eaten eaten at at the the tea tea meal meal in in the the late late afternoon. afternoon. There There are plain, are many many varieties, varieties, aa number number ofwhich arefairly fairly plain, of which are having proportion of having aa smaller smaller proportion fat, sugar of fat, sugar and and eggs eggs than than those those of of other other countries. countries. Another Another basic basic constituent constituent of the tea tea meal meal of the isis thinly . thinly sliced sliced brown brown or or white white bread bread and and butter. butter. Vegetable Vegetable cookery cookery isis not not aa highly highly developed developed ~rt art min England. England. As As long long ago ago as as the the eighteenth eighteenth century century f?relgners foreigners said said that that English English cooks cooks seemed seemed incapable incapable of of turnmg turning out out aa good good vegetable vegetable dish. dish. A A Gennan Moritz inn 1872 named Moritz German named 1872 wrote 'An English wrote of his landlady's of his landlady's meal meal that English dinner that'An for such dinner for such lodgers generally consists piece of as 1I am, lodgers as of half-boiled am, generally consists of of aa piece half-boiled or or half-roasted half-roasted meat plain meat, and and aa few few cabbage cabbage leaves leaves boiled boild inin plain water, pour aa sauce water, on on which which they they pour sauce made made of of flour flour and and butter.' butter.' It It isis usual potatoes as usual for for aa main main meal meal to include potatoes to include as one one of of the the two two vegetables vegetables served, both of of which which are are cooked served, both cooked by by boiling boiling . . . in plenty of in plenty water. of water. Popular dishes justly famous dishes for for which which England England 15is justly famous mclude include pork pies, pies, the the best best ones ones being being made made in Midlands; bacon in the the Midlands; bacon and and egg egg -- thin thin smoked smoked back back rashers rashers lightly lightly fried fried and and served servd with with slices slices of of bread bread crisply crisply fried fried and and aa lightly lightly fried fried egg egg -- aa delicious delicious dish dish whether whether served served for for breakfast, breakfast, lunch lunch or or supper; supper; Lancashire Lancashire hotpot potatoes and hotpot -- aa stew stew of of meat, meat, potatoes and oni~ns onions cooked period in cooked slowly slowly for for aa long long period in the the oven; oven; Comlsh Cornish pasties -- diced potato and diced lamb, lamb, potato and shredded shredded ~nion onion cooked cooked in in individual cases pastry and part cases of of short short pastry and served either hot hot as as part served elther of picnic dish. of the the main main meal meal or or cold cold as as aa snack snack or or picnic dish. Other Other delicious pudding, mince delicious specialities specialities are pies, are Christmas Christmas pudding, mince pies, stew stew with with dumplings, pudding, dumplings, Welsh Welsh rarebit, rarebit, Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding, steak (particularly those pudding, and steak and and kidney kidney pudding, and kippers kippen (particularly those cured cured in in wood wood smoke). smoke).

DUTCH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE HOLLANDAISE HoLLANDATSE -- Dutch DUTCH Dutch cookery isis closely closely related related to to that that of cookery of Belgium Belgium and and north north Germany. Being aa country pasture lands, country of rich pasture of rich lands, there Gennany. there isis an an abundance of high quality dairy high quality produce, and dairy produce, abundance and aa feature feature of of the large large towns towns isis the parlours (melksalons), (melksalons), which the milk milk parlours the which also sell sell excellent excellent sandwiches. sandwiches. Holland's Holland's rich produce duce rich dairy dairy pro goes into into its its superb superb cheeses, cheeses, which which represent represent one goes one of of the the country's largest largest exports. (edammerkaas), exports. Edam country's Edam cheese cheese (edammerkaas), Purmerend and and Alkmaar cheeses cheeses are Punnerend are spherical spherical in in shape shape and and painted red. red. Another Another famous (goudschepainted famous cheese cheese isis Gouda Gouda (goudschekaas), aa cream cream cheese kaas), cheese manufactured mostly mostly in in the the south south of of is shaped shaped like like aa flattened Holland. It is flattened cylinder cylinder with with rounded rounded ends. Holland isis aa country Holland country equally equally devoted devoted to to stock stock fanning farming and fishing, fishing, so and so the Dutch table the Dutch table features features aa wide wide variety variety of of charcuteries and charcuteries and salted salted and and smoked smoked fish. fish. The The oysters oysters of of Zealand Zealand are of excellent quality. excellent quality. proverb which There is 'Haring in't is aa Dutch proverb which says: in't land, says:'Haring land, dokter aan dokter aan de 'As long de kant': kant': 'As long as as the herring isis there, the herring there, the the stays away.' doctor stays away.' Herring isis the the staple staple food food of of the the Dutch Dutch people. (Herring fishing people. fishing was was transferred transferred to to deeper deeper waters enclosure of after the enclosure In 1965 Zuyder Zee. of the Zuyder Zee.In 1965 the total catch catch amounted to ta 450 million fish.) fish.) So it is is not surprising that the the herring is is the the centre-piece centre-piece of countless countless feasts. feasts. One One of of these is the 'New Hollanders' is Hollanders' (first fishing of the year) celebrated the year) celebrated in gaily decorated coastal coastal villages. The first first barrel of herring of herring is offered to the queen. In restaurants specialising in in French food, food, the the favourite favourite (hazepeper),, and dishes are jugged hare (hazepeper) dishes and veal escalope escalope with sauce brnnoise, brunolse, accompanied by potatoes and peas. Cheese and peas. Cheese with butter butter and small salted crackers. Rice is is usually served served with is imported in large large quantities from the fonner imported former Dutch colonies colonies . and often appears in both savoury and sweet dishes. From Indonesia Indonesia cornes From comes excellent coffee, coffee, tea, tea, and and high and chocolate. The love good quality cocoa and good coffee The Dutch love and drink drink it often, from small porcelain porcelain coffee cups. Apart from from their their own own national national beer, Apart beer, the the Dutch Dutch drink drink French and and Rhine Rhine wines. wines. They famous liqueur: French They have have aa famous Curaçao (Wynand (Wynand Fockink), which is sold Curagao which is sold in in big-bellied, narrow-necked ceramic ceramic flflagons. narrow-necked agons. COOKERY. cursrNE CUISINE ANcLArsts ANGLAISE - The essence ENGLISH COOKERY. essence of of lies in in choosing ingredients of English cookery lies of the the finest finest and texture quality and cooking them so that their flavour and are fully [ully developed. developed. This is done with the the minimum ad~i~ion are addition of ingredients to mask the fine natural taste taste of of the the orIgmal of original

FRENCH FRENCH REGIONAL REGIONAL COOKERY. cursrNs RÉGIONALEnScroNru: COOKERY. CUISINE Every particular cuisin~, Every French French province has has its its particular cuisine, although although ~ll all so-called so-called regional regional dishes dishes are not necessarily are not necessarily authentIc. authentic. Nevertheless, there Nevertheless, great number genuine French there are are aa great number of of genuine French regional given under regional specialities. specialities. These These are under the the names names of are given of the the provinces listed listed alphabetically. alphabetically.

food. food. producer of of beef, beef, mutton, mutton, lamb, England has long long been been aa producer England pork, pheasant, pheasant, grouse, grouse, partridge, partridge, duck, duck, salmon, salmon, so.le, pork, sole, plaice, turbot, halibut, butter and cheese, cheese, etc., etc., of of a a quahty plaice, quality unsurpassed anywhere anywhere else else in in the the world. world. Dishes Dishes from from these the se unsurpassed

GERMAN GERMAN COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE ALLEMANDE ALLEMANDE -- There There isis more more to to this this substantial substantial cuisine caisine than than the the dishes dishes we we are are so so 505 505

Leg of ofsalt-meadow mutton (Pftot. (Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas) salt-meadow mutton Leg

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY INTERNATIONAL Smokeo curry. Smoked its specialities specialities being being chicken curry. flavour, flavour, one of its goose is is eaten eaten dish; goose is aa typical typical Pomeranian dish; breast of goose is everywhere. almost everywhere. Halbe Hahn Hahn called Ha/be on the menu called an item on In the the Rhineland, an roll of of wholemeal chicken', but but aa roll does not not mean mean 'half aa chicken', does filled with Dutch cheese. bread filled country of Sauerkraut. Sauerkraut.ln in the Charcuterie In Charcaterie is important in the country pork cutlets are pork cutlets Hamburg, Hamburg, Gefullte Gefillte Schweinerippchen Schweinerippchen are rum. The The pork currants, apples, apples, biscuits biscuits and and rum. stuffed stuffed with with currants, quality to in quality to that butchers of Holstein have ham comparable in good varieties very good varieties of of of Westphalia; Westphalia; there there are are also also sorne some very served with with Eisbein, which sausage. sausage. ln In Berlin, Berlin, Sauerkraut isis served pea purée. pur6e. pork accompanied by pea is is boiled salted knuckle of pork accompanied by pig are are In In Bremen, feasts dedicated dedicated to to the the honourable pig Bremen, any any feasts (a sausage made of of wheaten wheaten Wurst (a bound to Pinkel-Wursf sausage made to include Pinke/in the the smoked in flour and and diced diced bacon), bacon), and and Oldenburg hams smoked hearth. juniper-flavoured hams Westphalia are are hams of of Westphalia The The smoked smoked juniper-flavoured Mtinsterland. Smoked rivalled by the excellent Smoked excellent charcuterie charcaterie of of Münsterland. and with savory; bacon and seasoned savory; and is served served with with beans beans and seasoned with bacon is pastry. Mettwurst Mettwurst and there in flaky and is aa sausage sausage wrapped in flaky pastry. there is garnished dried sausage sausage gamished sausage are Saxony; sausage are found in Lower Saxony; with Hanover isis eaten eaten with with horseradish horseradish and and mustard mustard in in Hanover glass of glass of with aa small small glass of Lüttje Laage, aa glass of beer beer topped topped with Lilttje Laage, brandy. Hessians, while Smoked dish of of the Hessians. Smoked pork loin loin is aa favourite dish grilled puddings served the with feast upon upon grilled served with the Rhinelanders feast pur6e and and 'Heaven and onions and christened onions mixed mixed with potato purée christened 'Heaven pickled pork pork and Earth'. various and various Earth'. Mainz Mainz offers offers succulent succulent pickled types whole of Palatinate offers offers of sausages, sausages, while while the the whole of the the Palatinate types of poivrade of Schweinepfeffer Kni)del, which of pork mit Knode/, which isis aa poivrade Schweinepfefer mit garnished garnished with quenelles. quenelles. Swabian generous heap heap of of cooked cooked Schlachtplatte isis aa generous Swabian Sch/achtp/atte good as grilled sa usages of meats. are as as as good The grilled sausages of Nuremberg Nuremberg are meats. The those of fat, the the short and Ratisbon and former short and fat, of Ratisbon and Coburg, Coburg, the the former latter thin rolls. Both are rich rich Both are and served servd stuffed stuffed into into bread bread rolls. thin and grilled in In Upper there are are grilled in herbs herbs and and spices. spices. In Upper Bavaria. Bavaria, there pea purée; pig's tongue smoked pork; pig's pig's ear pur6e; pig's with tongue with ear and and pea smoked pork; (grilled Franconian onion; Franconian sausages). sausages). and Rostbratwürste Ro s tbratwilrs te (grilled onion ; and The well known A internationally. A The Hamburger Hamburger Steak is weil known intemationally. Steak is similar veal Holsteiner Schnitze/, similar dish dish isis Ho/steiner Schnitzel, aa breadcrumbed breadcrumbed veal poached egg. escalope, eEE, aa topped with with aa poached escalope, slightly slightly browned. browned, topped grilled grilled sardine, various vegetables, vegetables, sardine, and and surrounded surrounded by by various including in the This isis aa favourite festive dish dish in the including cucumbers. cucumbers. This favourite festive region. Meat balls piquant caper Pomerwith aa piquant caper sauce sauce is is aa Pomerserved with balls served anian Pfefferpotthast, Westphalia isis the the country country of of Pfefferpotthast. anian delicacy. delicacy. Westphalia

German cookery: slices ofblack pudding with Germancoonkertr'rt:ff rounds of sour apple (Claire)

;jrlt:iHl,:f "**

gastronomic map familiar map is is aa The German familiar with abroad. abroad. The German gastronomic tends from reflection of the geographical one, which ex extends from the the one, which North to the the Alps, ch variation, variation, each much North Sea offers mu Alps, and and offers Sea to region offering dishes depending upon upon its its ancestry region offering special special dishes and climate. The soups, like French soups, are mostly the hearty type. Beginning from the north and and working towards the the south, (eel soup) there is which, although although it is Hamburger Aa/suppe Aalsuppe (eel soup) which, gets its name port is, is, in fact, fact, comname from the the great German port, mon to the whole of Schleswig-Holstein. A A typical German soup made of oats. Then is Hafersch/eimsuppe, Haferschleimsuppe, aa consommé consommi made soup is und Poren pea soup Porm which is aa pea Arfensuppe mit Snuten Snutenund there is Arfensuppe flavoured with pig's pig's snout and and trotters. trotters. Another Hamburg Hamburg speciality is garnished with veal, semolina brisket of beef garnished with veal, is brisket quenelles and diced seasonal vegetables. and diced voured wi th a wide variety of herbs. Bremen with flavoured Bremen eel soup is fla (Sp?itzle In Baden there is Spiitz/e soup (Spiitz/e Spiitzle soup In Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and and Baden there is are plain, or filled filled with liver, fresh noodle paste, plain, are squares of fresh ham, many vegetable ham, mushrooms). mushrooms). In In Swabia Swabia there there are are many soups: pea soup, soup, bean bean soup, soup, lentil lentil soup, soup, pea soups: cauliflower cauliflower soup, potato soup. The North Sea and shellshellSea and and the the Baltic provide fresh fish and fish. (or green green Grüner Hering) are In Berlin, fresh herring herring (or Grilner Hering) arc fish. In Berlin, fresh eaten fried, potatoes. They They fried, hot or cold, together with jacket potatoes. are The red after they they are are fried. fried. The are sometimes sometimes marinated marinated after herring prized. Another Another outstanding outstanding dish dish is much prized. herring is is also also much herring salad with gherkins and potatoes. Hamburg offers prawns. One offers oysters, oysters, lobster, and and large large prawns. speciality is fried is aa frid oysters and Cheshire Cheshire cheese; cheese; and and there is delicious crayfish soup. soup. Ali All varieties of sea sea and and river fish fish are are found here. Holstein is best known for its tench. At Emden aa veritable meal is herring; while elsewhere along is made of the herring; elsewhere along the there isis smoked smoked fish fish accompanied accompanied by by spirits the coast coast there (schnapps, (schnapps, brandy, etc.). The chefs of of the the The Rhine Rhine isis the the river river for for salmon, salmon, and and the the chefs region preparing it. have many of preparing it. One One of of the the trout trout ways of region have many ways recipes (Forelle in paper-wrappd trout in Papier-Hûlle). Papier-Hfille). trout (Fore/le recipes is is paper-wrapped Moselle pike is garnished grated Parmesan. garnished with cream Parmesan. cream and and grated Further south, in Wurttemberg Wurttemberg and and Baden, eels eels and and salmon salmon are served Basle-style, steamed The trout of steamed with with onions. The of the the Black Forest are cooked water, wine wine cooked au an bleu blan in in aa mixture mixture of water, and garnished meltod butter, and vinegar; vinegar; those in melted butter, gamished those of Wiesent in with small potatoes. potatoes. The fish fish of of the Danube are served served in the the same same fashion. In there are are trout trout In the the mountain mountain lakes lakes of of Upper Upper Bavaria there (Saiblinge) and (Renken). variety of salmon (Renken). of salmon and aa variety The The Hamburg Hambwg Stubenkûcken spring chickens chickens as as Stubenkfrcken are are spring popular as me city. The ducks eaten eaten in the sa same city. The as the the caponised caponised ducks in the cuisine the ancient town town of of Bremen Bremen has has an an international international anisine of the

Black geteaux with with cmnamon cinnamon Forest Christmas Christmas gâteaux Black Forest (Claire) Ghne\

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INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY (Liebnitz Keks), Keks), the Rhineland has the Rhineland has its has petits-beurre (Liebnitz its has its petits-bewre (variety of Muzm (variety of fritters), fritters), and and Cleves its almond has its Muzen Cleves has (Printen) of Aix-la-Chapelle gdteaux (Printen) The gâteaux Aix-la-Chapelle are Speku/atius. Spekulatius. The coated with with chocolate or or caramel; caramel; the the Black Black Forest Forest offers coated fruit loaf called Hutzelbrot cherry tart and bilberry cake; aa fruit called Hutze/brot people of and the Zuckerbrot Ulm are and Zuckerbrot of Ulm are favourites of the people Wurttemberg. The Kuch/e Kuchle of Baden are fritters fried in deep Wurttemberg. deep fat. Then Then there fat. there are are the from the aniseed-flavoured Springer/e Springerlc from Heidelberg and Heidelberg and the the macaroons macaroons and and chocolate-covered nougat of Nuremberg. of Nuremberg. 'Let there be beer beer ... there be . . . And there. was was beer.' A Bavarian beer.' A monastery attributes attributes these these words to to Saint Gambrinus, Gambrinus, and and they are they are sufficient sufficient to to show show the the influence of this this legendary great country figure over the great There is a wide variety country of hops. There of German beers. They Holstein beer, They include include Holstein beer, Berlin beer (which in summer is fermentation wheat beer kept in is aa low fermentation stone.jugs stone.jugs and and drunk drunk with with raspberry raspberry syrup: syrup: Weisse Weisse mit mil (Rauchbier of Himbeer), Franconian beer (Rauchbier Himbeer), Franconian beer of Bamberg, Back'bier Bick'bier of Bayreuth, fortified beer of of Kulmbach), Kulmbach), Munich beer, etc. German wines are often excellent. excellent. There There are two principal quality wines, denominations: denominations: Aus/ese, Auslese, first-class first-class quality wines, and and Spat/ese Spiitlese wines made from grapes that have been allowed to ripen on the vine for as long as possible possible (see WINE).

meat cut into small pieces and and boilod cloves, boiled with bay leaf, cloyes, whole onions. and the weight of of the beef beef in on ions. The w hole is then bound generously with pepper. A with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and seasoned generously fine and aa tripe fine beef stew stew is is produced produced in in Munster, and tripe dish, Soester Wamme,a of Soest, is well Wamme. a speciality ofSoest, weil known throughout the region. In the Kassel veal and mixture of ofveal Kassel district, the speciality is a mixture pork and eaten pork (Weckewerk) (Weckewerk) simmered with with bread bread rolls roUs and cold. Spit roasts are a Rhineland Rhineland delicacy. In upper Nahe, near ldar-Aberstein, Idar-Aberstein, there is the custom of marinating beef for onions and herbs, for rwenty-four twenty-four hours hours in in wine, wine, salt, pepper, pepper, onions before before cooking. cooking. They use a spit spit rod or beechwood, beechwood, and roast over wood wood charcoal. charcoal. In In Stuttgart, there there is is a a unique unique dish called ca lied Gaisburger Gaisburger Marsch, which consists consists of sliced potatoes, such a Spâtzle and and beef. beef. These These are are cooked to such a degree cooked to Spdtzle degree of tenderness that they may be eaten with a spoon. Muzzle of tenderness Nuremberg dish. Veal knuckle, boiled, boiled, then beef salad is a Nuremberg grillod, grilled, and and accompanied by by Knddel, Knode/, comes cornes from from around

Munich. Fresh vegetables vegetables accompany almost all ail specialities, specialities. from Schleswig-Holstein to to Hamburg. Hamburg. In In Bremen Bremen aa sign Schleswig-Holstein sign of autumn autumn is the appearance appearance of of Brunten Brunten oder oder gepflilcktm gepflückten Finten, Finten, a a dish dish of white white haricot beans. beans, french french beans. beans, carrots carrots and potatoes. Winter is the season of red red cabbage cookod cooked with bacon, and and ofstuffed of stuffed cabbage. In Berlin, Berlin, favourite favourite dishes are bacon, peas peas with bacon with squares of toasted bread added; and potato pancakes pancakes (grated raw potatoes, or potatoes bound with flour, flour, called called Kartoffelpufer). Kartoffe/puffer). In In summer, summer, Berliners Berliners with of Teltow, and the asparagus asparagus grown grown enjoy the small turnips of the Brandenburg Brandenburg marshes. marshes. on the Westphalia offers a dish made of raw potatoes blended Westphalia buckwheat flour, flour, served fried. The vegetables vegetables grown grown with buckwheat countryside around Brunswick are are tinned and and sold in the countryside throughout the the country; country; the the asparagus asparagus in in particular particular is throughout excellent. The green cabbages of Lower Saxony are served a popular popular sausage stuffed stuffed with with brains. brains. The The Hessen with a region offers Beulsches, Beu/sches, potato potato quenelles quenelles made with with a forceregion of leeks and savoury pudding; and zwiebelkuchen, zwiebe/kuchen, an meat of meat onion cake. cake. onion The staple diet diet of the the people of Wurttemberg is is boiled quenelles. There are many varieties of these, ranging ranging flour quenelles. Spatz/e with added liver, ham, etc., to the MaulMau/from the Spiitzle tasche, a a kind kind of highly highly seasoned canelloni canelloni stuffd stuffed with tasche, brains, veal veal and pork. brains, is the country of Knbdel Knode/ (potato balls). Upper Bavaria Bavaria is Upper breadcrumbs, are varied varied by by the the addition addition of white breadcrumbs, These are liver stuffing, stuffing, or bacon. liver There are are also also the the small round round cumin-flavoured cumin-flavoured cheeses of There Harz; the the Hessian Hessian Schmierkiise Schmierkase (a white white cheese cheese blended with Harz; green sauce sauce containing con taining nine nine varieties varietie:; of of herbs); cream cream cheese cheese greelr made of ewes' milk, from the Palatinate, Palatinate, including that of made caUed Mainze Handkiise; Handkase; the the cheeses cheeses of Allgiu; Allgau; Mayence called Kraeuter (a kind kind of Roquefort); Roquefort); and and the the assorted assorted cheesecheeseKraeuter cakes that that German German beer beer complements so so perfectly. perfectly. The cakes salads of of Baden Baden contain Emmenthal Emmenthal cheese, cheese, together together with salads bitter-sweet melon, red bilberries, bilberries, and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. bitter-sweet Pâtisseries are are excellent throughout Germany and very Pdtisseries varied. There are the the Napfkuchen Napjkuchen of of Berlin; Streuselkuchen, Streuse/kuchen, varied. cake made made with butter, butter, flour and and sugar; sugar; Berliner Berliner a yeast cake Pfannkuchen (jam (jam fritters dusted with with sugar); sugar); and and manymany Pfannkuchm varieties of of rolls, rolls, some sorne made made with with milk. milk. In Dresden Dresden there there are varieties custard tarts tarts speckled speckled with with raisins, raisins, Christmas Christmas Mohnspielm Mohnspie/en custard (slices of white white bread bread steeped in milk and and sprinkled with (slices ground poppyseeds poppyseeds and and sugar). sugar). Ltbeck Lübeck has has its its almond almond ground pas te, Bremen Bremen its Bremer Bremer Klabm K/aben (white (white bread dough mixed paste, with raisins raisins and crystallised crystallised lemon). Brunswick Brunswick has has gingerwith bread made made with with honey honey from the moors moors of Liineburg, Lüneburg, and bread Zuckerkuchen, a sugary cake cake baked baked on on aa metal met al tray. tray. Hanover Hanover Zuckerkuchen,asrgary

Assortment of ltalian produce: produce: Gorgonzola, Gorgonzola, Bel Assortm€nt of ltalian Bel paese, Parma harn, ham, Asti spurnante spumante and Chianti (Maison Bileua. Bilerta. Phot. Larousse) (Maison Larousse)

COOKERY. CUISINE ITALIAN COOKERY. custNE

ITALIENNE TTALTENNE -- The The ltalian Italian cuisine does does not not begin and and end end with pasta dishes, caisitu dishes, risotto, fritto misto zuppa ing/ese despite its misto and and zuppa inglese (which despite name was its name fritto certainly not invented in England). certainly Italian cuisiru cuisine is much more than that. Besides the above Italian (which are are all ail excellent) excellent) there there are are succulent charcuteries (which charcuteries made in Milan and Bologna, Bologna, such as sa/ami, as mortadella and and salarni, the famous famous Parrna ham, and (stuffed pig's the Parma ham, and the the zampone (stuffed trotter) of of Modena. Modena. Then there there is is Gorgonzola Gorgonzola cheese trotter) cheese (which is quite unlike Roquefort or any is any of the other French blue cheeses) and and Parmesan cheese cheese which wruch goes so weil with ail cheeses) so well all pas ta dishes dishes and and which is is the the secret of the the creaminess Italian pasta secret of creaminess of Italian Italian risotto. of Italian cuisiru cuisine is one one of the the oldest in Europe. It is is derived Italian from Greek gounnet gourmet traditions, these these being derived in their tum from Oriental cuisine. these turn caisine. Throughout the centuries these became firmly established established in Italy. They culinary traditions became gradually attained perfection perfection in the the country had adopted gradually country that had Choose any ordinary 1Italian talian dish and it is the replica them. Choose of one one that that was was once once enjoyed enjoyed by by gourmands reclining reclining on of on their triclinia in Ancient Rome. triclinia ltalian polenta polenta is is the same same as as the pulse that the Romans Italian

507 s07

INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY COOKERY Another national national dish is sukiyaki, sukiyaki, which wbich means 'roasted on the spit'. This has a history. In fonner former times roast beef beef was prohibited by the Buddhist Buddhist monks who forbade the domestic eating of animal meat. Such edicts were regarded regarded lightly lightly in rural rural areas, areas, and and the the peasants peasants used used to to get get over over them them by building a fire between roasting between two stones in the fields and roasting the mutton and pork over it there. Sukiyaki dates from this guest prepares time. time. Each Each guest prepares the the dish dish according according to to his his taste available: thin slices of meat, raw using the foods that are are available: egg, etc. diced vegetables, mushrooms, bamboo shoots, raw egg, The following are among the most popular fish dishes in Japan: eel fillets (unagi). This is prepared in a Kabayaki. Grilld Grilled eel gorged with The ee\ is gorged with beer beer or very special way Japan. The eel is very special way in in Japan. lengthwise with in half lengtbwise spirits, bled, then immediately spirits, immediately split in deboned. This chopper and and completely completely deboned. one one blow blow from from aa chopper grilld over a It isis first steamed, then much skill. skill. It requires much first steamed, then grilled sprinkled with sauce. wood fire and served sprinkled (a species of tuna). When the Katsus-buski. Dried bonito (a Katsus-buski. process of is completed the fish becomes like aa piece of drnng pro drying cess is powder is as it it isis required. Bonito powder wood. It It isis then wood. then grated as added to certain certain soups with the dual dual purpose of seasoning added used in the,rn and and making them more nutritious. It is widely used them Japan. rice containing A bowl bowl of cooked rice Maguro-no-suhki. of cooked Maguro-no-suhki. A powderod egg wrapped in aa thin slice of raw other raw tuna (or otber powdered substance). substance). sauce made made of Musi-yaki. Fish Fish cooked in in the oven in in aa sauce the oven and sprinkled sprinkled afterwards with flour; or cooked dry and potato flour; the same sauce. garnished with seaweed. seaweed. Nosi-maki. A bowl of rice garnished This dish dish is raw fish fish and and vegetables. This Nuta. A mixture of raw Nuta. horseradistt, mus mustard and other with horseradish, strongly seasoned seasoned with strongly tard and condiments. hot rice tea, water, water, beer beer and and bot rice wine The Japanese Japanese drink drink tea, The before aa meal.

prepared en route when they set out to conquer the prepareden tbe world. They toasted grains grains of wheat, crushod crushed them, tbem, and and made a gruel from the result. The only difference is that polenta is maizn flour, not made from coarse coarse maize not wheaten wheaten flour. now made identical Contemporary Italian dessert wines are almost identical to those those the Romans made. made. They left them to thicken in the of their their villas villas then then drank therr them diluted diluted with snow. snow. attics of

ltalian cuisirp cuisine can can be be considerod considered the the 'mother' 'mother' of of all ail Italian

s. European Latin Latin cuisine cuisines. European Catherine de de Medicis took Italian ltalian pastry-makers, cooks Catherine craftsmen and ice cream makers with her to France. These craftsmen imparted the secrets secrets of of their their delicate delicate pastries pastries (especially (especially their imparted frolla), luscious creams creams and and flavoured flavoured ices ices to to their pasta frolla), French counterparts. counterparts. Italian ltalian culinary methods were were thus French into France, France, and there is a restaurant restaurant and there is hardly a introduced into menu in that country today that does not include disbes dishes of ltalian origin. In Paris, and in most of the large towns, are Italian tbese the best in town) that tbat offer some of these restaurants (and sorne appropriatete solely ltalian dishes, by the tbe appropria accompanied by dishes, accompanied solely Italian Italian wines. wines. Wines Wines such as Valpolicella from from Verona, such as Italian and Frascati Bardolino from Garda, Chianti from Tuscany and Romani and and Orvieto Orvieto the the white white wines from Castelli wines from Castelli Romani and moscati spumanti spurnantiftom from Piedmont has red and white moscati Umbria. Piedmont Emilian wine, Asti (Barbera (Barbera and and Freisa) the famous Emilian Freisa) and and the Asti wine-producing Lambrusco. ltaly is is the second largest largest wine-producing the second Lambrusco. Italy splrit, grappa, country of Europe. There is also a traditional spirit, country of (witch). Anotber Another and aa herb-flavoured herb-flavoured liqueur called strega (witch). liqueur, Adriatic coast, is maraschino. liqueur, from the Adriatic

quality. ltalian Italian ltalian food produce produce is is of of excellent excellent quality. Italian food charcuteries everywhere. The pork butchers are are known everywhere. charcateries are ttre skin of of a boned culinary mortadelle where the makirgmortadelle culinary artists, making the slightest apparent piglet is without there being the is stuffed stuffed without trace of an incision. trace an incision. flesh alhas delicate, tender flesh The delicate, tender poultry of Piedmont has The poultry of Piedmont The young yellow for though it is for sorne some tastes. The is rather rather too too yellow though pigeons, are province, no guinea no bigger bigger than than pigeons, guinea fowl fowl of of the the province, Italian pasta delicious, the butter of Piedmont is excellent, excellent, ltalian Piedmont is which with which good, and marze flour flour with coarse maize is and the the coarse is extremely good, Italian olive here than than anywhere. anywhere. ltalian polenta is is better better here is made made is Italian and ltalian oil oil of Provence, Provence, and to the the olive oil oil isis comparable to most other of most tomatoes the tomatoes tomatoes of sweeter than than the are sweeter tomatoes are (apart from may not from pork) may European countries. The The meat meat (apart meat of sorne some the meat quite flavour of the and flavour quite match the delicacy and match the other European countries, but it is is still quite good. Pasta asciutta, the general name for various types of pasta, asciutta,the should be served before before the main course. For Italian wines see WINE.

RUs$ ET Er cursINE RUSSE COOKERY. CUISINE RUSSIAN AND POLISH POLISH COOKERY. RUSSIAN poLoNAIsE - Russian cuisine is contrasting is composed of two contrasting composed of POLONAISE

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gastronomic influences: ConEuropean. Conand west west European. Asian and influences: Asian gastronomic and not blend of these, and temporary Russian cuisine, then, is aa blend temporary great French have imagined itit since since the the French chefs chefs have at ail all as as the the great at eighteenth century. eighteenth Minagier russe, russe, le Ménagier A rare rare book the sixteenth sixteenth century, century le book of the A occasions Russian cuisine cuisitu of that that time. Festive occasions the Russian describes the flowed with every every meal. There There was frequent" and and drink drink flowed were frequent, (hot and hydromel, beer, and cold), cold), hydromel, Italian wine wine (bot Greek and and Italian Greek liqueurs. But, kvas, brandy, brandy, cherry and and raspberry liqueurs. sparkling kvas, sparkling Iz Ménagier, these wines wines and and to the advice of Le Minagier, these according to the ad according vice of

JAPANESE COOKERY. ctnsINE JAPONAISE rApoNAIsE -- Japan Japan is is an COOKERY. CUlSINE populated islands in lacking in agglomeration densely populated islands lacking of densely agglomeration of people live pigs. The fish and and cattle, The people live mainly mainly on on fish sheep or or pigs. cattle, sheep and various sea supplementing their their diet diet with rice and sea products, supplementing other plants and vegetables. why fish fish form form the The explains why The abundance abundance of of sea-food sea-food explains people are cooks, and and basis are skilful cooks, Japanese cuisine. The people basis of Japanese have food of of marine origin. origin. ways of of serving serving food have devised devised many many ways found in in fish and shellfish found They and shellfish They use not not only only all all tbe the types of fish their many other other marine edible seaweed, seaweed, and and many seas, but but also also edible their seas, in their their products unknown in they eat eat both both in in the the West, which they preserved states. fresh Tinned sea ssa urcbins, ulshins, crabs, crabs, states. Tinned fresh and and preserved mussels, quenelles, etc., Japan. are widely available available in Japan. etc., are fish quenelles, mussels, fish Dried call sashimi, sashimi, isis very fish, which which the the Japanese Japanese call Drid fish, sea bream bream popular. popular. They solid-fleshed fish fistt such such as as sea They also also eat eat solid-fleshed (hirarne\ (maguro), carp (koi-no-arai), turbot (tai), tuna (tai), turbot (hirame) carp (koi-no-arai), tuna (maguro), (saba), usually and, with mackerel (saba), usually seasoned seasoned with and, less less frequently, frequently, mackerel soy soy sauce. sauce. Raw is easily digestible and and Raw fisb fish seasoned seasoned with with soy soy sauce sauce is easily digestible (in the opinion gourmets) aa most (in most delicate delicate dish. dish. opinion of of Nipponese gourmets)

smoked salmon salmon vodka, caviare, Russian specialities: caviare, eel eel and and smoked spocialities: vodka, Russian (Nicolas\ (Nicolas)

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COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL spirits spirits were not to be offerod offered too liberally Iiberally -- 'There should be no disputes disputes and certainly certainly no knock-out blows.' Other picturesque details of Russian anisitu cuisine are supplied

by by the the descriptions descriptions of of the the traditional, traditional, quasi-ritual meal

(similar to that offered on Christmas Eve in Europe) eaten on the return from midnight mass between between Holy Saturday and Easter Easter Sunday. Sunday. The Easter meal is a mixed cold table, with savoury and sweet sweet dishes, dishes, pastries, and and desserts laid laid out out together. together. All these dishes remain on the table during the whole of Easter Easter Sunday and Easter Monday; empty ones being replaced replaced by full ones as the food is consumed. consumed. The The composition composition of of the Easter Easter meal is traditional. traditional. Certain Certain dishes, such as as roast lamb and sucking pig, must always be included, included, and and one or more lambs made of butter must must be prepared. This is done done in the following way: A reclining reclining lamb is modelled from a block block of of fresh butter. butter. Its wool is fashioned by placrng placing a piece of canvas on some sorne butter and and attaching it to the the modelled lamb's body. body. The head head is carefully sculpted. The horns may be covered covered with gold go Id or silver foil, and pepperconr peppercorns or grape seeds serve as eyes. eyes. The lamb is then placed on a mount ssnsisling consisting of a piece of of wood placed on a bottle. bottle. The wood is covered covered with damp hemp on which grass, oats or lentils lent ils have been sown sown and germinated to glve give an attractive attractive surround. surround. An orthodox Russian Russian Easter Easter meal consists consists of ofaa roast roast lamb lamb and sucking pig, a cold ham, a turkey or piece of of feathered feathered game, also roasted, veal, variously roasted, roast roast leg leg of ofveal, variously coloured eggs, a pasklw paskha of of white white cheese cheese (pyramid of of pressed white white cheese), cheese), one or more Easter Easter gAteaux gâteaux (koulitch), one or several babas babas (cylindrical cake made of leavened dough which can be as much much as as I1 m. m. (39 (39 inches) high and and 40 40 cm. cm. (16 (16 inches) in diameter), diameter), plates of Polish pastries Qtlietzki), (p/ietzki), and and several several salt salt cellars cellars of of salt salt which which has has been blessed. blessed. A large large number number of non-ritual non-ritual dishes also also appear appear on on the Easter Easter table. These, like the dishes above, above, are constantly constantly replenished replenished throughout the night. night. Apart Apart from this this Easter fare there are Russian zakouskis, zakouskis, closely and smorgasbord of closely relatod related to to the the smiirrebrod smorrebrod and Scandinavia.The Scandinavia. The zakouskis zakouskis arc are arranged on immense immense buffet buffet tables, pride of place being given to caviare. Today, as in former former times, times, the the sumptuousness sumptuousness of of the the display display of of zakouskis zakouskis is an indication indication both of of the the social status status of of the host and the prestige prestige of of the guest. Vodka Vodka accompanies accompanies the the meal. meal. Russian Russian hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre (hot (hot and and cold) are many and varied. The following following are some sorne of of the the hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre (most of which which are are found found under under HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot horshorsd'euvre): d'œuvre): Variously Variously garnished barErettes, barquettes, beunecks beurrecks d à la turque, blinis, ciernikis, ciernikis, kromeskies d à h la polonaise polonaise or d à la

Scandinavian Scandinavian specialities specialities:: marinated marina tOO mackerel, (.lVicolas) cod scandinave (Nicolas) cod liver liver dà la scandinave

calves' calves' kidney soup, soup, iced ockrochka fish fish soup, soup, etc. iced ockrochka The Russians Russians make excellent pies. The best-known best-known is the coulibiac, which goes go es back as far as the sixteenth or sevenseventeenth century. It used to be filled with cabbage, cabbage, but nowadays it is usually usually contains con tains salmon or other fish. Other pies include: include: Polish Polish pie, pie, Vesiga Vesiga patties, pa tlies , burbot burbot liver Iiver patties, Smolmsk Smolensk pies, pies, Troitski patties, pat lies , sour cabbage pattics, pattips, Caucasiot casian pies, pies, Saracm Saracen pies, Russianfish tourte, tourte, small small croustades of of fish, fish, and and the the numerous nurnerous pastry pastry items items included included in in the hors-d'euvres hors-d'œuvres list.

Vodka Vodka (46" (46 alcohol) made made from from fermented fermented wheat, wheat, or occasionally occasionally from from maize maize or or potatoes, potatoes, is is odourless odourless and colourless and should traditionally traditionally be drunk in one gulp. It helps helps digest digest the the predominantly fatty fatty food. food. Russian Russian tea (black (black tea tea from from China) is is drunk all ail day day from from the the eversimmering simmering samovar. Some Sorne wine is produced, mainly in the Caucasus. Caucasus. 0

SCANDINAVIAN COOKERY. COOKERY. crrrsrNg CUISINE scA,NprN.c,vE SCANDINAVE - In SCANDINAVIAN the Scandinavian Scandinavian countries countries of Sweden, Norway and and Denthe mark mark almost almost everything everything on on the restaurant restaurant menus isis dà h la carte. carte. These These countries countries have have a a buffet buffet table in in the the dining-room, called ca lied smiirgdsbord smorgdsbord which which is is covered covered with with all ail kinds kinds of meats, fish, fish, cheeses and and spirits. spirits. One can help oneself cold meats, constitutes the meal proper. proper. These These before the meal unless it constitutes hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre consist consist principally principally of of preservod preserved fish fish (smoked or tinned), anchovies, mackerel, brisling, etc., and are accompanied by a wide wide range range of of seasonings. There There is, for example, example, gafel-biter, gaffel-biter, oyster sauce or anchovy sauce sauce made made with white white wine. Other Other parts parts of the the stndrgdsbord smorgdsbord include inc1ude salt salt beef, wine. of pork or or mutton (rullepdlse),various (rullepolse), various items items of rolled breast breast of rolled charcuterie such such as as Danish Danish saucisson, saucisson, which which resembles resembles charcuterie Italian salami salami but but is fattier fattier and more savoury. There There are also Italian various salads of of which which the the most original is sill-salade, sill-salade, made made various of cooked beetroot, beetroot, anchovies, anchovies, herrinp herrings and and salted salted gherkins. of pork with National dishes dishes include include leg leg of ofpork with caramelised caramelised apples apples,, National of hon ham with fresh apples, prunes prunes and red cabbage; cabbage; knuckle of fresh turnp cabbage; brisket brisket of of beef beef with horse-radish; veal stew stew turnip The famous pytt-i-panna pytt-i-panna is is composed of with dill sauce. sauce. The with diced beef, beef, ham ham and and apples topped topped with a a poached egg. diced Even more original is roast roast reindeer (rensdyrstq (rensdyrsteg in NorEven radjurstek in Swedish) served with a cream sauce sauce wegian, radjurstek (gjetost) and and accompanied by by seasoned with goat's cheese (gietbst) bilberry jam. jam. Thur Then there there is is the snow hen, hen, a speciality speciality of bilberry Scandinavia. Wheat Wheat, rye rye and and barley barley bread bread are are served served with with the Scandinavia. meal. meal. of how how to to make make a good Every housewife knows the secret of Every sandwich - there there are are as as many many as as fifty-nine varieties. sandwich-

russe, russe, cheese cheese crofrtes, croûtes, anchovy anchovy dartois, herrings herrings dà I'estonienne, l'estonienne, nalesnikis, Siberian pel'meni pel'meni (see (see PEL'MENI), PEL'MENI), Caucasian Caucasian pirozhki and and other other varieties varieties (see (see PIROGHI), PIROGHI), rastegats, rastegaïs,

cabbage sausselis, Lithuaniot cabbage sausselis, Lithuanian varenikis, varenikis, game game tartlets, tartlets, visnisekis, visnisekis, etc. Cold hors-d'euvre and, hors-d'œuvre include include a great variety of of canapis canapés and barquettes, barquettes, agourois, various various types of cavinre, caviare, herrings d à la Iivonienne, Iivonienne, rolls rolls dà ln la varsovienne, etc. A distinguishing feature of Russian cuisine is the the use of smetara smetana (whey) (whey) and and beetroot, beetroot, which which forms forms the the base base of bortsch, bortsch, without without which which no no Russian Russian meal meal would would be be complete. Russian Russian soups, soups, like those those of of Poland, Poland, are very nourishing, nourishing, for meats. for besides besides vegetables vegetables they they contain conta in aa variety variety of ofmeats. The following following are the the soupo soups most commonly served served in Russia Russia and and Poland: Poland : Polish Polish Dorrsch, bortsch, stschi stschi dà la la russe, russe, cucumber cucumber rossolnick, oukha de sterlet, meschanski meschanski soup, soup, nettle soup, soup, rossolnick, oukha (served iced). iced). Polish Po/ish kolodnik, kolodnik, Livonian soup, soup, botwrnra botwinia (served Livonian kliotskis soup, soup, crearn cream of of hant ham soup, soup, gctne game okrocl*a, okrochka, morel morel kliotskis soup, Finnish soup, soup, kalstchale kalstchale (a (a machdoine macédoine of of glac6 glacé fruits), soup, 509 509

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY Scandinavian beers are world-famous, world-famous, especially Danish ScandinavÎan beer. Then there is Îs the the well-known akvavit, akvavit, aa light fragrant aids the digestion and is drunk at the end of the spirit that aids and is

Another great delicacy is Îs fried baby perch caught in Lake down with a bottle of D6zaley, Leman, and eaten, washed down on the shores of the lake itself. is aa basic Cheese 1S basic ingredient ingredient of Swiss cuisine. To the unCheese pleasantly __ ~~... _. initiated there are initiated there are only only two two types: types: Gruyère, Gruyire, aa ,... (minimum 45 per cent piquant, fatty cheese (minimum 45 per cent fat), and piquant, fatty cheese Emmenthal, fatty fatty and and sticky sticky with vacuoles, aa rarer rarer Emmenthal, with large vacuoles, cheese with with aa less To the pronounced ftavour. the initiated, cheese less pronounced flavour. To variations of quality in in these two however, there are infinite variations cheeses depending on their provenance and age. mountains there is aa special In the Vaud part of the Jura mountains delicate flavour. flavour. cheese called Vacherin, creamy with with aa delicate cbeese called Vacherin, creamy produced in Another special special cheese, cheese, Schabzieger, Schabzieger, is is produced Another in the canton of Glarus. This cheese is very close-textured because process. The double coagulation coagulation process. whey undergoes the whey the undergoes aa double Berne section of the the Jura mountains possesses section of Jura mountains Berne possesses aa cheese (monk's head). This is a c1oseT€te de moine (monk's closespeciality called Tête grained, tender cheese. Although Reblochons and Tommes Reblocbons and are manufactured on the borders of Sa Savoy, are eaten are manufactured on voy, they are give first mainly in in Geneva, Geneva, where gourmets give mainly I1rst prize to to the distinctive Tomme au marc, coated coated with vintage marc. distinctive Pdtisserie has always been aa speciality of the Swiss, and Pâtisserie Swiss chocolates enjoy aa world-wide reputation for quality. are ail all imported, since Switzerland does The raw raw materials materials are produce cocoa quantity of sufficient quantity of sugar. sugar. The not cocoa or not produce or aa sufficient passed limiting the industry came its own own after aa law law passed came into into its duty payable on sugar and other foreign produce. some highly regarded regarded white and Swiss vineyards produce sorne red which consistently improve improve in red wines, both both of which in quality quahty WINE). (see WINE). customs vary from from region to region. Gastronomic customs region to region. In French-speaking Switzerland, customs are more or less the with aa tendency to France, though to make make the same as as in Fr.ince, same though with of the day the the midday main meal of midday meal, as they do in Germanmost families the evening meal speaking Switzerland. For most the evening consists of aa cup of white white coffee and potatoes browned in consists (rbsti), which the Béarnaise B6arnaise housewives housewives do well. butter (rosli), weil. devised for are many especially those There are many specialities, espedally those devised have also adopted occasions like carnival. carnival. Swiss cooks cooks have festive occasions from France, France, specialities from from Savoy Savoy and classic dishes dishes from classic Franche-Comt6, dishes dishes from southern Germany, Germany, and Franche-Comté, from southern ltaly. and fried fried dishes from northern Italy. pastas, risottos and In Geneva which is aa pot-au-feu Geneva there there is is soupe aux fidis fidés which In very fine vermicelli; and and longeole, soup garnished soup garnished with with very fine vermicelli; which the Genevese Genevese go to the mountain mountain inns to eat. This is a wbich kind fresh moist moist sausage based of fresh based on on fat fat pork rinds, rinds. kind of coriander and fennel fennel and and served poached, seasoned with with coriander Then there are atriaux, atriauxo by boiled potatoes. Then accompanied by there are which flat pigs' liver whicb are liver sausages, served are highly seasoned, fiat fried. A wide are served including fried. A wide variety of cheese dishes are (a thick cheese steaks souffi6 fritters, steaks (a thick slice slice of soufflé fritters, ramekins, cheese Gruyere egg and breadcrumbs and and fried Gruyère dipped in white of egg (slices of in cheese croûtes cro0tes (slices of stale stale bread in c1arified butter), cheese clarified butter), sprinkled witb with soaked in in white wine or roiLk, milk, sometimes sometimes sprinkled soaked wine or onion rings, covered covered with with aa sliee slice of cheese cheese and and baked onion rings, baked or fried). One of the best-known best-known dishes in cheese/ondue for which there are many recipes. Here is is Brillat-Savarin's. 'The there are recipes. Here glazed earthenware caskitchen in in aa glazed fondue begins begins in the the kitcben fon&re (caquelon they pan (caquelon serole or cast-iron cast-iron enamelled serole enamelled pan they cali call it in Switzerland) which is French-speaking Switzerland) is rubbed with a clove garlic. The cheese is finely grated, al10wing of garlic. 200 g. allowing 150 to 2N (5 to good, full-flavoured Gruyère of good, Gruydre per person. oz.) of to 7 oz.) Enough local wine is is added to cover. Correct Correct the seasoning and add add aa grinding of pepper (a little with salt if necessary, and grated nutmeg does not not harm, bann, either). While the fondue is being prepared, the guests cut their bread into srnall small pieces. is brought in on on aa spirit spirit heater. heater. At At the last The fondue fondue is brought in

meal, meal, like the ~Calvados. ,"-, """UV". There is an old cuIsrNE ESPAGNOLEEspAcNoLE- There SPANISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE 'All you find to eat in aa Spanish inn is what Spanish saying, 'Ali Spanish you bring tourism has bring with you.' Fortunately, the advent of tourism changed all aH this. nortb Dishes vary from the south (rice and pork), to the north (beef and central provinces (beef and potatoes) while while the poor poor central peas. Fish and shellfish and shelll1sh generally eat lean mutton and chick peas. fried in oil. all along the coast, and are usually are caught aH usuaHy fried known than There is better knowo any of the the others: is one one dish dish better than any ol/a (q.v.) which which is forerunner of the olla podrida (q.v.) is possibly the the forerunner grande ouille that used to be made in south-west France France and combines the ftavours flavours of of meats and vegetables. is a soup that combines (q.v.) Another good Spanish Spanish soup is Another is puchero puchero (q. v.) which is often a olla podrida. substitute for oUa is aa hearty dish dish that may include include pork, chicken, Paella is Paella shellfish, frogs, snails and a large number duck, 5sh, shellfish, dlck, chorizos, fish, are made in of vegetables, pulses pulses and cereals. paellas are cereals. Simpler Simplerpaellas of the home. marinated are marinatedfish, marinatedfish, marinaled Other special Spanish dishes are game, chicken Yalencia, baca!oo bacalaa àd la Ia bisca[enne biscalenne (cod served with tomatoes, on hard-boiled eggs), ions, green peppers and hard-boiled onions, veal which, roast veal veaJ Spanish-style (topside of veal monterÎa, monteria, roast origano, before roasted, is marinated with red peppers, origano, before being roasted, garlic, white wine and the juice of bitter oranges), ham and garbanzos (see GARBANZOS), eggs, chorizos chorizos with garbanzos GARBANZOS), etc. eggs, you will volume you In the course find a In course of this this volume will find a great many recipes of Spanish Spanish origin. sell churros (hot fritters), In the streets of Spain, vendors sell paste). Water melon" and and touron (a almond paste). water (a kind kind of almond water melon, Manzanilla. melon is offered offered with a glass of Manzanilla. wine-producing country in Europe. The Spain is the third wine-producing wines are: are: Jerez, Jere,z, Manzanilla, Malaga, Moscatel, principal wines Valdepanas, etc. (See WINE.) Valdepanas,

SWISS COOKERY. COOKERY. CUISINE cursrNE SUISSE sussE -- SwÎss Swiss hotels, catering SWISS for a large tourist industry, have an an international cuisine. caisine. Home cooking in in private small local local resHome private households, small taurants and country inns inns is surprisingly good and has has a taurants and is surprisingly good and local character. Tbere There is no lack lack of produce for is no distinctive local cooking -- abundant milk, cream and good cooking and butter, excellent poultry and game, sUlX:ulent and game, quality meat, poultry fruit and and vegesucculent fruit tables. Excellent transport facilities ensure transport facilities tbat a a wide tables. Excellent ensure that products from from an all over over Europe Europe and and from from other variety of products other continents are available on the market market. . Swiss charcuterie highly developed charcuterie is a highly developed art and deserves deserves ils its excellent reputation. reputation. Although it is easy nowadays to enjoy perfectly fresh seaproducts, Swiss gourmets prefer the rich fish and other sea products, place goes to and varied local river and lake fauna. Pride ofplace thefario, lives in the fario, aa red-spotted trout with delicate flesh that lives the streams and and is is far superior to the mountain streams far superior to the tbe rainbow artificially bred for table use. trout artificially The cbar char cornes comes aa close close second second to to the The tbe trout for flavour, fiavour, while the burbot with its delectable liver is fairly while fairly abundant abundant in Switzerland. Switzerland. All western aod and central European varieties in the Swiss lakes and rivers. Sorne of fish are found in tbe Some species, example is found only in the Swiss lakes. lakes. One example however, are found thefira of of Lake Geneva, a delicious salmonid that can reach tbeféra size. The same fish is found in Lakes Lakes Zurich and a very large size. is called called/ellschen. Constance, where it is fellschen. Lake Neuchatel has bondelles; and in the tiny lake of Zoug, a species of small, its bondelles; rosy-fleshed trout called zuger rothli rdthli is fished in springtime. rosy-fieshed served with a cream cream sauce flavoured fiavoured with aromatic These are served herbs.

5t0 510

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY INTERNATIONAL COOKERY moment moment a small small glass glass of of pure fruit fruit kirsch is added. Everyone eats eats from the the same same dish, dipping dipping their forkful of bread right

loaf and is dense loaf is served served very very thinly sliced. sliced. gastronomicfzsres Saint-Gall no no longer enjoys fastes of Saint-Gall enjoys the gastronomic of its its famous abbey, abbey, but retains sorne still retains but still charcuterie, some delicious delicious charcuterie, such as schiblig schiblig (a kind of of dried saveloy) saveloy) and and darre diirre landjaeger landjaeger (steam-dried and and known known as gendarmes suisses). sudsses). In the canton of Girsons is bindenfleisch bindenfleiscft (beef, mutton or mutton or goat's flesh flesh dried out-of-doors). out-of-doors). This This can can only be be done done in in the the upper upper valleys valleys where pure. The where the the air air isis dry dry and and pure. The meat meat becomes as as hard as as leather and is is eaten raw, in in "''<'VIl''''''. shavings. eaten raw, Tessin Tessin cuisine has has aa distinctly ltalian Italian flavour, flavour, and is, in fact, fact, only distinguishable distinguishable from from that that of of Lombardy Lombardy by a greater refinement in preparation. The in its its preparation. The ravioli ravioli of of this canton are very large. In the Swiss Alps, apart from from the the bread, bread, Hour flour and and coffee coffee that reach that reach them them from the the valley, valley, the the shepherds have have to to depend upon the resources of the the Alps. Alps. Milk, whey.; whey, butterbuttermilk, butter and milk, cream, cream, butter and cheese, cheese, supplemented supplemented by by salted salted meats, constitute their basic diet during the season. season. They They do, do, however, have have aa few few traditional traditional dishes. dishes. ln In the the Appenzell isfenz, a thick, lightly salted porridge made of pastures there thereisfenz, of flour and buttermilk, cooked over the tire fire in aa cauldron or or in in traditional three-legged three-legged pot. pot. This the traditional This porridge may also also be be prepared prepared with milk and with cream (nidel-fenz). (nidel-fenz'1. Room-zonne is another cream-based cream-based porridge that is is cooked over over the fire. fire. fiour as As much flour as it will absorb is added it, followed followed bya added to it, by a generous slab of mâ is of butter. Chiiiis schoppe or alte prepared altend is prepared by placing alternating layers of alternating layers of stale bread bread and and slices slices of of cheese in cheese in aa cauldron, cauldron, and and sprinkling with with milk. milk. Once Once the the pn~paration is is thoroughly soaked, it is preparation fried gently in butter is fried butter until golden brown, rather like a thick waffie. waffie. perhaps named These dishes, dishes, perhaps named differently and varying slightly in their preparation, preparation, are slightly are found in al! all the chalets of the of the Central Swiss Alps. Polenta has been Polenta has been recently introduced introduced into Valais and Grisons. Mill< Milk or water isis drunk, drunk. the latter the latter sometimes with aa dash dash of kirsch. sometimes

.

to the that the fondue does not stick to the the bottom bottom to ensure that pan while halfway through while cooking. No wine is drunk, but halfway the offered.' The The experts is offered.' the meal, meal, a a small glass glass of kirsch is experts disapprove of short short cuts, cuts, such as thickening the mixture mixture with disapprove of cornflour, or making making it more frothy by adding bicarbonate. bicarbonate. cornfiour, or However, However, when when one is not not very very sure of of success, it is advisable advisable to to add add a little little cornflour cornfiour with the wine before heating, rather than gwua:nte1es perfect binding when than spoil the the fondue. This This guarantees the the mixture isis brought brought to the boil. Thin it with hot white wine ifif evaporation evaporation causes causes it to thicken too much. In the the canton of Vaud, Vaud, we we find find excellent charcuterie. charcuterie. Payerne sausages sa usages are are not not unlike unlike those those of Morteau Morteau but fattier, more more moist moist and more highly highly seasoned. Cabbage and liver liver stuffed stuffed sausages sausages have a a pronounced pronounced smoky smoky flavour, and and are are eaten eaten Vaudois-style, Vaudois-style, garnished garnished with leeks and with leeks potatoes. potatoes. Tongue marinated marinated dà la vaudois is delicious and aa Paris today. Vevay bricelets (variety of well-known dish in Paris well-known wafer) are are exported all ail over the world. wafer) Fribourg is renowned renowned for for its its salted salted and and smoked smoked beef. Fribourg The fondue Smoked cows' cows' udders are considered considered a delicacy. Thefondue Smoked of this this canton canton is is made made with with Vacherin Vacherin cheese. cheese. of Nplll'lh
TURKISH COOKERY. COOKERY. CUl SINE TURQUE TURKISH cursINE rrJRer.JE -- Because Because of of the the country's long subjugation subjugation to the Greeks, there is is no no such such What exists as Turkish Turkish cuisine. thing as local cuisine cuisine. What exists is is aa local anisine ininfluenced by the the various various races races that make fluenced make up up the the nation, nation, domidominated by the more refined Greek cuisine. nated cuisine. Turkish cuisine, then, enjoyed The Turkish caisine, then, enjoyed by by Persians, Persians, Kurds, Kurds, Armenians, Rumanians, R umanians, Albanians, Albanians, the Armenians, the island island population, European colonials colonials and and the the Jewish European Jewish people (for it it conforms conforms of the the Talmud) to the the principles of to quite aa wide Talmud) comprises comprises quite wide range ofdishes. range and its its immediate Immediate vicinity, the water In Istanbul and vicinity, the water is is of of such purity and and digestibility that that it it is looked upon such is looked upon as as aa of elixir. elixir. People make pilgrimages to kind of kind to drink drink the the Taxim Taxim Dere waters, waters, and carry bottles of and Buyuk Dere and of it it away with with them. A proverb proverb says says that that 'whoever 'whoever has has once them. once drunk the the ofTaxim will always always return retum to to drink drink it it again'. waters of waters Taxim will again'. Apart from from lamb lamb and and mutton, mutton, meat meat is is far far from good. Apart from good. of ox ox meat; meat; veal veal is is scarce Buffalo meat meat takes takes the the place place of Buffalo scarce and and pork is is forbidden forbidden for for religious reasons; poultry is poor. lean; pork lean; that most most meat meat dishes are made of mutton or This means means that This lamb. lamb. is an an abundance abundance of of vegetables: vegetables: artichokes, artichokes, totoThere is There matoes, courgettes, courgettes, aubergines, giant french french beans, beans, gombos. gombos. matoes, is the the national national dish; Turks soak soale their their rice rice for few Rice is Rice for aa few minutes in in strongly strongly salted salted water water before before cooking it using aa minutes of Alep Alep butter, butter, the the surplus surplus of which is is large quantity quantity of large poured offat off at the the end end of of cooking. cooking. poured is savoury and and spicy. spicy. It It is is also also very very rich, rich, Oriental cooking cooking is Oriental oil plays plays an an important important part in its its preparation. preparation. as oil as Pâtisserie is is heavy heavy and generally very very sweet. sweet. It It is is always Pdtisserie always served with with large large glasses glasses of water. served The milk milk usd used is is buffalo buffalo milk. milk. The 511 5ll

INTOXICATION INTOXICATION Fruits come mostly from from Asia, Smyrna and and Jaffa: figs, peaches, oranges, melons, water melons, melons, muscat muscat grapes, peaches, oranges, melons, water grapes, strawberries, apricots, apricots, plums, Jerusalem Jerusalem grapes, plums, almonds, cherries, apples, etc. Cooking is done in hemispheres hemispheres of beaten beaten copper called djindjdres. djindjères. containing a In each containing djindjlres, each ln the cheaper cheaper restaurants, djindjères, ragofit, are ranged ranged side by side on aa 'silo', which different ragoût, which is different to conserve conserve the the heat. covered with cinders to heat. They stay there covered from one meal to another, just mealto just as lamb and mutton remain constantly on the constantly tbe spit. In Constantinople, some restaurants stay open all Constantinople, sorne ail night, night, In and are many itinerant food and there are food sellers, offering cooked lamb and chicken offal, white rice, chick peas, spit-roasted lamb grilled fish, simits, waffies, salep, ices, cheese, grilled cheese, fish, tea, tea, coffee, salep, ices, simits, waffies, chicory, mizis, etc. melonsn melons, chicory, mézés, etc. melons, water melons, passod from the Greek that has One habit habit that has been been passed from the Greek to to the mizis in caf6s in evening Turks is of eating mézés Turks is that that of in the the cafés in the the evening between o'clock and and 88 o'dock, o'clock, together with with numerous between 55 o'dock and ouzo. Mizis are hors-d'œuvre hors-d'ezvre consisting glasses of raki raki and Mézés are of cheese, cheese, fried fish, fish, horseradishes, cucumbers, cucumbers, pieces of of radishes, horsesalad, olives, olives, salad, tomato and and onion salad, bean salad, radish, haricot bean sweetcorn, sweetcorn, diced swordfish, salted almonds, etc. of the are essential Kacher cheese and Kacher cheese and yogurt yogurt are essential items items of Turkish diet, together with olives Turkisb olives and raw onions. Turkish delight delight are fruit syrups and flower and and fruit Jams, llower Jams, and Turkish melons, cucumbers, todelicacies, delicacies, as as are are melons, melons, water water melons, of which are eaten raw. matoes matoes and chicory, chicory, all of aloli àd la grecEte specialities are arc afoli The most typical Turkish specialities grecque d la (see AIOU), coascotts, dagh kebabs, dolmas à (see AÏOLI), Armenimt Armenian couscous, la persane, aubergine macaroni àd la keftes-kebabs, macaroni turque, persane, aubergine turque, keftes-kebabs, soup, lourtourrice pilaf, tripe soup, purde, purée, red caviare purie, purée, riee pilaf, lamb's tripe (Most of these these may be louyouvetsch, Jaffa oranges in syrup. louyouvetsch, syrup. (Most found in alphabetical order in this volume.)

IRON CONTENT CONTENT OF CERTAIN FOODS IRON OF CERTAIN /,00 g.) (in mg. per per 100 Whole eggs 3'5 Beef Beef 3·5 Who le eggs 0'46 Cow's milk Mutton Mutton 0·46 milk l'5 Butter Very fat pork pork 1·5 Butter 7'9 Wheatgerm Offal Wheatgerm Olfal 7·9 I Wholemeal Eel 1 Wholemeal bread bread Eel I1 White bread Salmon Salmon bread l'2 Smoked herring herring 1·2 Root vegetables vegetables 5'7 Oysters Oysters 5·7

3'l 3·1 0'15 0·15 0'2 0·2 4'07 4·07 3 3 l'2 1·2 0'7 0·7

IRRORATELJR IRRORATEUR (Spray gun) -- Piece Pieee of apparatus, invented by perfume rooms, by Brillat-Savarin, Brillai-Savarin, which which was was used used to to perfume especially the dining-room. in the preface Brillat-Savarin writes writes in preface to to la Physiologie du goitt: '1 submitted council of submitted to goût: to the the council of the the Society for for the piece irrorateur, a piece of National Industries my Encouragement of my irrorateur, other than is none other of apparatus invented by me, which is of lhan aa spray which can fill a room compressor spray room with perfume. perfume. pocket. Il It was 'I had in my pocket. '1 had brought the the spray with me, me, in well-fiIled. well-filled. 1I turnod turned on the tap and, with a hissing hissing sound, out sweet-smelling vapour which rose came aa sweet-smelling came rose right right up up to to the ceiling ceiling and the,n then fell in tiny drops on the people people present present and on their papers. 'It was then that 1I witnessed, witnessed, with indescribable pleasure, pleasure, the heads of the wisest men in the capital bending under my 'irroration'.I1 was enraptured to note that the wettest among 'irroration'. also the happiest.' them were al50

'l

of the best some of ISIGNY ISIGNY - A small town in Calvados where sorne cream. France is made from its famous cream. butter in Franee polssoN CLARlFlÉE(Geladne). COLLE ISINGLASS coLLE DE POISSON cLenlrrfs-'Take ISINGLASS (Gelatine). 'Take (l-oz.) sheel cutting it of gelatine; after cutting sheet of 25-9. (l-oz.) aa 25-g. it into into small pieces, wash it, put it in a pan with 8 glasses of filtered filterd water pieces, g. (2 oz., oz.,*! cup) sugar. Put it and 50 g. it on the fire. established, put the pan on the 'As soon as rapid boiling is established, of the fire in such a way way as to to keep it boiling. side of scum as as it 'Take care care to remove the the scum it rises and when the glass of good glass it through of gelatine, strain il reduction reduction produces produces a good aa napkin into a clean vessel. vesse!. gelatine can and the gelatine 'The proper proper clarification of the sugar and fruit and succes of of attractive of success be considered the be considered the secret of attractive fruit (Car€me.) liqueur liqueur jellies.' jellies.' (Carême.)

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general effect The general effect of of the INTOXICATION - The INTOXICATION the phenomena produced by the action of a poison. INToxrcATIoN ALCOOLIQUE Alcoouetre - See intoxication. INTOXICATION Alcoholic Alcoholic intoxicatioll. ALCOHOLISM. intoxication. INroxcATIoN Food intoxicatioll. Food INTOXlCA TION ALIMENTAIRE ALIMENTAIRE It is categories of food differentiate between essential to differentiate between the two categories already poisonous intoxication: that caused caused by food which is already intoxication: poi5Onous (or has ingestion; so through putrefaction) become 50 (or has become putrefaction) before ingestion; food rendered caused by by wholesome food and that and tbat caused rendered toxic loxic by putrefactions produced producd by in the inby itit in or putrefactions fermentations or fermentations the intestine. testine. consists of of latter consists for the Dietetic remedial treatment treatment for the latter Oietetic remedial and offering offering reducing the quantity of the troublesome food food and encourage the it in a more digestible form. The residues that encourage il of microbes are are tbus thus eliminated eliminated since the digestive growth of juices transform the food food completely. juices transform the case case of proteic This is is why, wby, in in tbe proleic putrefaction, putrefaction, the proproand that portion diet is portion of albumins in the diel is reduced reduced and tbat of of farifrom naceous foods increased. Inversely, when when a child suffers from intestinal intestinal catarrh caused by hydrocarbonic hydrocarbonic fermentations, fermentations, a (albuprescribed (albudiet is albumin-rich diet starch-reduced, albumin-rich starch-reduced, is prescribed minous milk, buttermilk, buttermilk, etc.).

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(U.S. zucchini). ancchini). MARROWS' COURGEITES ITALIAN MARROWS, COLJRGETTFS (V.S. Variety of gourd with short fruits. Courgettes couRcErrEs COURGETIES -- Variety coucourzelle, name of courgeron, courgeron, coucourzelle, are also also known under the narne are or ltalian squash sqmsh or they are are called called lta/ian and zuchetti. and zuchelli. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. they zucchini. zucchini. Courgettes have aa very delicate taste. or not. Method Method of of preparation. Courgettes may be peeled peeled or not. thick it is peeled, cut into vegetable is When the vegetable is to be fried it into thick flour, or little sticks, sticks, soaked in milk, drained, rolled in flour, rounds or and deep-fried in boiling oil. cr6ole. COURGETTES couRcETTEs A Itatian la créole, À Il LA cnforr CRÉOLE -Italillll marrow$ mlIrrows, àI la dice the flesh, and remove the seeds, Peel the courgettes, rem seeds, dice Peel the courgettes, ove the the llesh, pan and cook cook on the pan brown brown in good fat. Add salt, put the lid on time to heat, stirring from slowly on slowly on low heat. from time to time. Crush thern them all the moisture has evaporated. with aa spoon and cook until aIl colour before serving. serving. Let the pulp acquire aa golden colour garnish. COURGETTES crlcfes coURGETTEs GLACÉESGlazed ltrliln mrrrow gamish. Glazed Italillll marrow into lozenge Divide the courgettes courgettes in quarters and trim them into Oivide even size. size. Blanch for aa few minutes and drain. shape of even (3 tablepan with saut6 pan Put in aa sauté Put them them in with 2 2 tablespoons (3 spoons) butter, a pinch of salt, and a little spoons) Iittle sugar. Cover with with gently until cold water. Bring Bring to the boil, cover, until the cover, and cook gently disappeared. Sauté Saute the courgettes entirely disappeared. liquid has almost entirely it. in the remaining liquor so that they are coated with il.

IRIDESCENT SEAWEED. np6n -- Edible Edible seaweed seaweed reSEAWEED. !RIDÉE IRIDESCENT colouring. It markable for its variegated variega ted colouring. lt is eaten raw in salad or cooked like French beans. (British cookery) IRISH STEW STBW (British cookery)-- This dish really belongs IRISH belongs to the Irish Irish culinary repertoire. repertoire. It It isis mutton stewed in in white white mullon stewed the (See MUTTON.) and sliced sliced onions. (See MUTTON.) stock with with potatoes and

quantipresent in iron is small quantirnn-Although iron IR.ON. IRON. FER-Although is present in v9ry very smaU part (5 or important part or 6 g.), it has a very important ties in the human body (5 to play in the body's functioning. 512

ITALIAN MARROWS IT ALlAN MARROWS little spinach sirnrnered in butter, has been simmered in butter, has been added. added. Add Add aa !ittle Parmesan cheese to and sorne stuffing, a some Parmesan cheese to the tbe stuffing, a little little garlic and chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with browned breadcrumbs. breadcrurnbs. Pour olive oil over oven. the courgettes courgettes and brown in the oyen. mingr6lienne (Russian Italian Italian marrows marrows à la la mingrélienne @ussian cookery). A U, rr,rnCnfuENNS-Peel the courgettes COURGETTFS FARCIES À LA MINGRÉLIENNE-Peel courgettes CoTJRGETTES FARCTES crn (2 inches) and cut them thern into slices 5 cm inches) thick. Remove Rernove the drain the slices. slices. seeds, blanch and drain rice, some ri ce, put it under the cold co Id tap, and Blanch and drain sorne drain some fat drain again. again. Add Add sorne fat chopped chopped mutton, rnutton, chopped cbopped onion softened in butter, chopped fennel, fennel, a little garlic, garlic, salt and pepper. Mix well. weIl. Fill the courgettes with this the tops. this stuffing, rounding the Arrange in in aa buttered buttered sauté pan, packing packing them thern in in fairly sautd pan, stock. Start tightly. with tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. tightly. Moisten with oven with cooking on the stove, stove, and continue gently in the oyen the lid !id on. Baste the dish with its own juice juice during cooking. councnrrrs A Itdian I. COURGETTES Italian marromr marrows à la nigoise niçoise 1. À LA NtgotsnNIÇOISEPare the courgettes, slices, salt them, courgettes, cut them thern into thin slices, thern, wipe with sautd them with a cloth, cloth, sprinkle sprinkle flour and sauté them in oil in a pan on a strong flame. flarne. Put them in a a dish, dish, alternating them with skimmed and seeded tomatoes which have been sliced and lightly lightly fried fried in oil. Pour 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) boiling oil, in which whicb parsley have have been been rapidly rapidly browned, sorne garlic garlic and chopped parsley some over the slices. slices. A little little sliced onion, onion, browned in oil, can also be added to this dish. disb. Italian Italian marrows marrows ià la nigoise niçoise II. D. councsrrEs COURGETTES A À r,r LA wrgorsn NIÇOISE Divide the courgettes in half balf lengthways. Make Make an incision incision (around round the pulp, !* c*. cm. (* (t inch) from frorn the edge, and several (a little of the pulp. little cuts in the middle rniddle of Season the courgettes with salt, put them tbern on a cloth and leave them them to get rid of of excess moisture. Dry and cook them thern gently in oil, without without letting letting thern tbern brown too much. rnuch. Drain. Take out three-quarters three-quarters of the the pulp, without damaging darnaging

I

3ourgettes dà la nigoise Courgettes niçoise II II

i

Italian marrow ià la grecque (horsd'auwe). (hors-d'œuvre). councrrres COURGETTES A À LA GREcQLJE GRECQUE -- Divide the courgettes courgettes into small slices slices without without peeling them, thern, or trim them thern into lozenge lozenge shapes. Put thern tbern into a a court-bouillon prepared in the manner described described for Artichokes HORS-D'ŒUVRE). Finish in Artichokes d à la grecque (see HORS-D'(EUVRE). the same way.

Italian Italian marrorc marrows ià I'indienne. l'indienne. coTJRGETTEs COURGETTES A À I'rNoENNs L'INDIENNE --

Prepare Prepare the marrows rnarrows the same same ts as for Glazed Glazed ltalian Italian marrow. Simmer Season with salt and a good thern in butter. butter. Season good pinch of Sim mer them

curry powder.

When When they they are are cooked, cooked, pour pour over over a a few few tablespoons Bichamel Béchamel sauce (se (see SAUCE). Mix without breaking the

rl

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courgettes. courgettes.

Italian Italian m&rrows marrows ià la la mentonnalse. mentonnaise. councETTEs COURGETTES A À LA

courgettes in the way described described -- Prepare the courgettes for ltalian Italian marrow marrow dà lanigoise.I/(see la niçoise II (see below). Stuff the halved courgettes with their chopped pulp, pulp, to which which an equal quantity of blanched, drained and chopped chopped

MENToNNAISn MENTONNAISE

frdl

Italian ltalian pasta: paSla: Spaghetti Spaghetti alla alla bolognese bolognese

513 513

ITALIAN ITALlAN PASTA the skin. Chop the skin. Chop the the pulp. pulp. Add Add two-thirds lwo-lhirds of of irc iLS weight weighl of of risotto risollo flavoured flavoured with wilh Parmesan Parmesan and and 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) thick thiek tomato lomato pur6e, purée, flavoured with with a touch loueh of of

cylinder equipped with wilh a die, and and pressure pressure is applied to itil by by cylinder equipped hydraulic press. A fan is placed placed near near the outlet outlet of of the the die to 10 a hydraulic begin the drying drying process, process, which which ends ends in the the drying drying oven. oyen. The small pasta pasta products producl~ are are cut eut as they they enierge emerge from from the rylinder cylinder small bt bl means means of a a circular knife; the the others others are are produced produced in different lengths. Egg pasta is made made by by adding dry or fresh ordinary eggs to the mixture. The slightly yellow colour of ordinary pasta pasta isis due due to to the addition addition of of turmeric turroeric or or to to various various chemical colourings. colourings. The The food food value value of of pasta pasta products products is is the the same same as a~ that that of of the the cereals from from which whicb itil is is made. made. It IL contains con tains glucides glucides or or carbocarbocereals hydrates hydrates and mineral mineraI salts, salts, but but only very very small amounts amounts of protein, protein, fats fats and and vitamins vitamins (mostly (mostly Vitamin Vitamin Bl). BI). Pasta Pasta is is essentially essentially an an energy energy food food providing providing the the body body with with 350 350 calories calories per 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) pasta. pasta. It lt is is an an excellent excellent staple staple food. food. For For the the preparation preparation of home-made home-made noodles, noodles, see see NOODLES. NOODLES.

grated grated garlic. garEc. Stuff Sluff the the halved halved courgettes with wilh this mixture. mixture. Smooth Smooth the the stuffing sluffing with with a a fork, fork, giving giving it it a a lightly lightly domed shape. Put Put the the courgettes in in an an oiled oiled gratin gratin dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, pour pour over some sorne oil, oil, brown brown gently gently in in the oven. oyen. To To serve, serve, surround surround them them with with a a few few tablespoons good good veal veaJ stock stock and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Itrlhn Italilln marrotrB maITQWS Ià la provcngale. provençale. corrRcErrrs COURGETIES A À rl LA pnovrNPROVENgArJ ÇALE -- Cut Cut the the courgettes courgettes into into thick thick slices, without without peeling peeling them. them. Salt, Salt, dry, dry, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour flour and aod saute sauté them them in in oil. oil. Arrange Arrange the the slices slices in in layers layers tn in aa gratin gratin dish, dish, alternating alternating them them with with rice rice cooked in in stock, stock, and aod tomatoes tomatoes lightly lightly fried fried in with sliced sliced onions, on ions, parsley, parsley, and and chopped chopped garlic. garlie. in oil, oil, with Smooth Smooth the the surface surface of of the the dish, dish, cover coYer with with grated grated cheese, cheese, and and brown brown in in the the oven. oyen. Itrlirn ltalim marrow marrow salad. saI ad. corrRcETTEs COURGETTES EN EN SALADE SALADE - Divide Divide the the courgettes courgettes lengthways lengthways into into quarters. quarters. Blanch Blanch them them in in boiling boiling salt salt water water for for 66 to to 88 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain and and wipe wipe thern them on on aa cloth. c1oth. Put Put therr them in in a a salad salad bowl. bowl. Pour Pour over over the,m them aa few few tabletablespoons spoons Vinaigrette Vinaigrel/e sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle generously generously with with chervil chervil and and chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. This This salad salad can can be be served served with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Itdirn Italim marrom marrQWS surt6ed. sautéed. couRcETTEs COURGETTES s{urEns SAUTÉES - Peel Peel the the courgettes, courgettes, cut eut them them in in slices, slices, flour flour them them and and saut6 sauté in in oil oil or or butter. butter. ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA PASTA (Pasta (pasta products). products). pAres PÂTES eLnrENrArREs ALIMENTAIRESDrid Dried wheaten wheaten flour flour preparation, preparation, mostly mostly made made from from durum durum wheat. wheat. The The flour flour isis well weil kneaded kneaded into into aa stiffdough stiff dough and and forced forced through through specially specially perforated perforated cylinders cylinders from from which which itil comes eomes out out in in various various shapes, shapes, known known by by different different names names (macaroni, (macaroni, spaghetti, spaghetti, vermicelli, vermicelli, crescioni, crescioni, ditalini ditalin~ fedelini, fedelini, ravioli, ravioli, reginette, reginette, strichetti, strichetti, tagliarini, tagliarini, tagliatelli, tagliatelli, tortellini, tortellini, etc.) etc.) They They are are made made by by kneading kneading vigorously vigorously hard hard (red) (red) wheat wheat with withboiling boilingwater. waler. After Afterkneading, kneading, the thepaste pasteisisput pulininaabronze bronze

of

ITALIEIYI\E IT ALIENNE (A (A L)V) - Name Name grven given to to various various dishes dishes made made of meat, meat, poultry, poultry, fish fisb and and vegetables. vegetables. In In all aU these these dishes dishes finely finely diced diced or or chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms are arc used. used.

The The name name dà I'italienne l'italienne is is also also given given to to aa method method of of prepreparing paring macaroni macaroni or or other other pastas. pastas.

ITALY ITALY -- See See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY, COOKERY, WINE. WINE.

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WAIV A - Name Name grven given in in some some districts districts of ofFrance France to to the the yarrow, yarrow, and and to to aa tlpe type of ofgentian. gentian.

MIRE IVOIRE (A (A L') V) -- Method Method of of preparation preparation used used especially especially for for

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poultry. poultry. (See (Sœ CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken dà l'ivoire.) l'ivoire.)

IVROGIYE IVROGNEDE DE MER MER-- Small Small fish fish with with red red scales scales found found in in the the Atlantic, Atlantic, and and in in the the Mediterranean Mediterranean and and Adriatic. Adriatic. Its Ils flesh flesh isis tough, lough, but but itil isis edible. edible.

IZARD. IZARD. rs^lnoISARD-Name Namegiven given to10the thewild wild goat goat of ofthe thePyr6n6es. Pyrénées. For For methods methods of ofcooking cooking itil see see ROEBUCK. ROEBUCK.

514

are essences are artificial essences the word fantaisie. contain the When artificial contain fantaisie. When (artificial artificiel (artificial ot arome arome artificiel words fantaisie the words added, the added, fantaisie or colouring When colouring label. When the label. on the appear on must appear flavouring) must f1avouring) matter is added, this must be indicated. matter colouring matter product made with essences, acids and colouring A product sold under under only be be sold and can can only fruit" and name the na cannot bear the me of aa fruit, product) with, (artificial product) with, ifif pro&tit artificiel artificiel (artificial name of produit the name the pure sugar. sugar. necessary, the mention of pure or marmelades marmeladcs fruiq or of fruit, of mixtures of or of Jams made of fruit or preserve fruits fruits to preserve used to has been been used which has syrup which made with with syrup made the bear the glucose) must per cent must bear cent glucose) (syrup containing about 55 per containing about (syrup preserved fruit fruit (made with with preserved confits (made sirop de de fruits words au an sirop words fruits confits syrup). syrup). and fruit and of fruit from aa basis basis of obtained from are obtained of which which are Jams, ail all of Jams, categories: various categories: into various can be be divided divided into sugar, can sugar, Apricots, sugar. Apricots, with sugar. fruit with stoned fruit cooking stoned made by by cooking Jams made 1.l. Jams plums, etc., used and, and, are used etc., are oranges, plums, strawberries, oranges, cherries, strawberries, cherries, halved. prepared who or halved. whole fruit isis prepared the fruit kind, the to its its kind, according to according le or juice of sugar' fruits and and sugar. of fruits the juice with the only with made only 2. Jellies Jellies made 2. pulp and and fruit pulp prepared with strained fruit with strained Marmelades prepared 3. Marmelades 3. sugar. sugar. theraisinés raisinds as the such base, su multiple base, with aa multiple made with 4. Jams Jams made 4. ch as preparations. (q.v.), or similar preparations. or other other simiJar (q.v.),

JALOUSIES - Little cakes cakes made made of of flaky f1aky pastry. JALOUSIES(see Method L J. Roll Roll out out a a piece piece of of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry dough dough (see (3 inches) and cut cut it into into strips strips about 7t inches) 7l cm. cm. (3 DOUGH) and wide.

Leaving aa margin of cm. (* (t inch) around the edges, around the of I1 cm. Leaving

spread a layer layer of Almond Almond paste (se (see ALMOND) f1avoured flavoured vaniJla on the the slices. slices. with vanilla with twisted to make aa crissdough to strips of dough Decorate with twisted strips cross pattern. pattern. Secure this by pressing pressing down at each edge edge of the slice water so with water dough moistened moistened with slice aa narrow strip of dough edges. Brush with beaten egg. sticks firrnly. Crimp the edges. that it sticks Bake in aa medium oven. oven. When cooked, spread apricot jam on top. Cut into pieces of equaJ equal size size.. Method II. cut itit into into 22 flaky pastry, cut //. Roll Roll out aa piece of flaky pieces, each (4 inches) wide). l0 cm. (4 each 10 Place baking sheet. sheet. moistened baking slightly moistened these on on aa slightly Place one one of these jam, Brush the with jam, Spread with water. Spread the edges of the the dough with water. edges of leaving aa border. If in ha half dough in Fold the the second length of dough border. Fold lengthwise. Using the back knifs, carefully cut the the calslully cut large knife, back of of aa large folded dough into strips at leavrng aa border at of equal equal width, leaving strips of each the on the carefully on and lay lay itit carefully the dough dough and out the each end end.. Open Open out join them. jam. Press slice Trim the the to join them. Trim edges to Press the edges spread with with jam. slice spread edges them. neatly and and crimp crimp them. edges neatly Brush for oven for in aa medium modium oven Bake in beaten egg. egg. Bake the top top with with beaten Brush the jam 25 spread jam the oven, oven, spread the tart tart out out of of the Take the 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Take on round the the edge. edge. crystals round sugar crystals on itit and and sprinkle sprinkle sugar Cut (l| inches) to cool cool wide. Leave Leave to inches) wide. cm. (1 into strips about 4a cm. Cut into strips about on on aa wire wire tray. tray.

t

JAMS preparation A preparation cElfrt."-- A coNnrunns, GELÉES AI{D JELLIES. JELLIES. CONFITURES, JAI4S AND of follows: France isis as as follows: in France legal definition definition in the legal fruit for for which which the of fruit 'Products sugar or crystallised crystallised sugar of refined refined or solely of constituted solely 'Products constituted and juice of preserved in in sorne some or preserved fresh fruits, fruits, or of fresh fresh fruits fruits or or juice and fresh way (Decree of 1925). 25September September 1925). of 25 drying.' (Decree other than than by by drying.' way other They per cent and cent moisture, moisture, and of 40 4O per maximum of must contain contain aa maximum They must in Id 60 per 55 per per cent of which 55 dry extract, extract, ofwhich cent dry hold 60 per in consequence consequence ho cent percent.) cent.) (Fruit already to 77 per contains 55 to already contains cent must must be be sugar. sugar. (Fruit Only to this this definition definition products which which correspond correspond to Only those those products have. a right pure fruit, sugar. labelled pure right to have.a to be be labelled Wre sugar. fruit, pure The (in practice, practice, apple apple fruits (in the mixing mixing of of fruits law authorises authorises the The law juice jellies), on juice isis used particularly for on condicondifor jellies), great deal, deal, particularly used aa great tion put tirst proportion isisput first in the thehighest highestproportion used in the fruit fruit used tion that that the on the label. label. on the Marmelades (q.v.) must thesamedefinition same'definition to the mustcorrespond correspond to Marmelades (q.v.) as percent, and jams, but cent, and lowas as55 55per fallasaslow extractcan canfall dry extract as jams, but the thedry the been hasalready already been which has or sugar sugar which sugar, or of brown brownsugar, the use useof used allowed. fruit, isisallowed. for crystallising crystallising fruit, used for IfIf tartaric label must must thelabel added,the citricacid acid isisadded, orcitric tartaric acid acidor

panwith Preserving pan wil6skimming skimming ladle ladle Preservi.og (De hiller in.Phol. Pho t.Larousse) Larousse) (Dehi/lerin.

quantity of sugarused used Thequantity ofsugar FABRTcATToN - - The Jam-making. Jam-making. FABRICATION question. Sugar not Sugarisisused usednot fruitininquestion. varies thefruit variesaccording according totothe preserve it.it.When preparation,but When but10topreserve thepreparation, only only totosweeten sweeten the must areused, used,sugar sugarmust slight acidity acidityare withslight rather fruitswith ratherwatery wateryfruits fruit. quantitytotoequal thatofofthe thefruit. equalthat be beintroduced introduced ininaaquantity containingmucilaginous mucilaginous For moresubstance, substance,containing Forfruits fruitsofofmore 515 515

JAMS AND AND JELLIES JELUES matter, malter, the quantity quantity of sugar should be be reduced. red uced , The best quality sugar sugar should be usd. used,

Too Too much much sugar sugar

stirring stining all all the time time on on a a gentle gent le heat. heat. Raise the the heat heat and and continue to 10 cook cook until the Ihe jelling jelling stage stage is is reached. reached. Add

oversweetens oversweetens the the jam, jam, noticeably noticeably

shelled shelled apricot apricot kernels. Finish Finish as directed direeted above. above,

Cherry Cherry iom jam I. coNFIruRE CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For I1 kg. (2 lb.) stoned sloned cherries, use use I1 kg. kg. (2 lb., lb" 4 cups) sugar and and I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! cup) water. Proceod Proceed in in the same same way as i c,rp) for Apricot Apricot jarn jam I. 1. If If the the cherries are very very sweet, only 750 g. g, (lj (lt lb., 3 cups) cups) sugar sugar should should be be used for I1kg. (21b.) (2Jb,) fruit. Cherry Cherry jam jam II. II. coNnrunn CONFITURE DE DE cERrsEsCERISES - I1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb,) cherries, cherries, I1 kg. (2 lb., 4 cups) sugar, 5 dl. (scant (seant pint,2l pint, 2:\: cups) cups) goosegooseberry berry juice, juice, I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant it cup) water. water. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar in the water and and boil for for 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the cherries and and the the gooseberry juice. juice. Cook and and finish in in the Ihe usual way. way. The addition of gooseberry juice juice makes makes for more more rapid rapid cooking cooking and and aa more fragrant fragrant jam jam as well. weIL Chestnut Chestnul jam. jam. coNnruRE CONFITURE DE DE MARRoNs MARRONS - See See CHESTNUTS. NUTS, Melon Melon jam. jam. coNFIrrrRE CONFITURE DE DE MELoN MELON -- For For]1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) melon, melon, net weight, weight, after removing removing rind rind and and seedsn seeds, 750 g. (l+ (lt lb., lb., 33 cups) cu ps) fine fine sugar. sugar. Cut the the flesh ftesh of the the melon melon into inta little pieces. pieces, Put Put these these in in Cut layers layers in in a a large large basin, basin, sprinkling sprinkling each each layer layer with sugar. sugar. Leave Leave to to stand in in aa cool cool place place for for 33 or or 4 hours, hours, then then put put the the contents contents of of the the basin basin into into aa pan pan and and cook cook to to the the jelling jelling stage stage as as described described above. ab ove. Qpnnge Q{ange jam. jam. coNFrruRE CONFITURE D'oRANcEs D'ORANGF-S -- For For I1 litre litre (If; (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quarl) orange orange puree, purée, I] kg. kg, (2 (2 lb., lb., 44 cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *~ cup) cup) water water and 33 dl. dl. (+ (~. pint, pint, l{ li cups) cups) apple apple juice. juice. Choose Choose oranges oranges of of the the same size, sound and and with with aa thick thick skin. Prick Prick them them here here and and there there rather rather deeply deeply with wilh aa little little pointed pointed stick. stick. Put Put them Ihem in in aa pan pan of of boiling boiling water water and and leave leave to 10 cook cook rapidly rapidly for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain, Drain, and and soak them them in in aa basin basin of of cold cold water, water, reneviing renewing the the water waler frequently, frequently, for 24 24 hours. hours, This rather rather prolonged prolonged operation operation removes removes the the bitterness bitterness from from the the orange orange rind rind and and softens softens itit more more completely. completely. Drain Drain the the oranges, oranges, divide divide them them into into quarters, quarters, remove remove the the pips pips and and pith pith and and pass pass through through aa sieve. sieve. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar with with the the water water in in aa pan. pan, Boil Boil for for aa few few moments, moments, and and skim. Add Add the the orange orange puree purée and and the the apple apple juice. juice, Finish Finish in in the the same same way way as as the the recipes recipes above. above. Peach Peach iam. jam. courrrr;Rr CONFITURE DE DE pEcsns PÊCHES -- Proceed Proceed with with stoned stoned and and skinned skinned peaches peaches in in the the same same way way as as for for Apricot Apricoijam. jam, Pineapple Pineapple iam. jam. coNnrunu CONFITURE D'ANANAs D'ANANAS - For For]I kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb,) fresh pineapple (net (net weight, weight, after after removing rernoving the the outside outside and and fresh pineapple hard hard core), core), 750 750 g. g, (l+ (I! lb., lb., 33 cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It cup) cup) water. waler. Cut Cut the the pineapple pineapple into into small, small, square square pieces. pieees. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugar in in the the water water and and cook cook itit to to the the ball bail stage stage (l16"C., (l J 6°C., 240"F.), tben put put in in the the pineapple pineapple chunks. chunks. 240°F.), then Cook Cook the the jam jam as as usual usual until un til itit reachc rcaches the the jelling jelling stage. stage, Finish Finish in in the the usual usual way. way. Plum Plum jam. Jam. @NFrrrJRE CONFITURE DE DE pRr;NEs PRUNES -- For For every every I1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.) stoned stoned plums, plums, add add 750 750 g. g, (l+ (1 t lb., lb., 33 cups) cups) sugar sugar and and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! water. Prepare Prepare as as for for Apricot Apricoi t cup) water.

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diminishes diminishes the the flavour flavour of of the the fruit, fruit, and risls risks rapid rapid crystallisacrystallisation. On the other hand, jams jams or jellies jellies preparod prepared with an tion, On insufficient insufficient quantity quantity of of sugar sugar are are in in danger danger of of fermenting, fermenting, or, or, ifthey if they have have been been overcooked, overcooked, oflacking of lacking all ail flavour. flavour.

Cooking. Cooking, This cannot be be properly properly done without an untinnod tinned eopper copper or aluminium aluminium utensil. utensiL jam depends The The time time taken taken to to cook cook the thejam depends upon upon the the intensity intensity of the the heat to which it is submitted. submitted, It It cannot cannot be be precisely precisely measured. measured. The cooking period period is is divided into two IWO phases: phases: during the Ihe first firsl the the evaporation evaporation of of the Ihe moisture moislure contained contained in the the fruit takes takes place. place. The process process of of dehydration dehydration is is complete complete when the the steam rising rising from the pan is is less less dense and and the the surface surface begins begins to 10 seethe seetbe rather rather than Ihan to 10 bubble. bubble. Then the Ihe real real cooking cooking begins, begins, effected effeeted at greater greater or or less Jess speed speed according according to 10 whether whether the fruit is is watery watery or easily easiJy jelled. jelled. During During thefirst the first phase, phase, the the jam jam should should be be skimmed with with an untinned untinned skimming skimming ladle, to to remove remove all ail the the impurities impurities which which rise rise to to the the surface. surface. Once Once evaporation evaporation has has taken ta ken place, place, you you must follow very very closely the the progress progress of of the the cooking, cooking, which which from from then th en on on will will be rapid. Put Put the the skimming skimming ladle ladle frequently frequently into into the the pan pan be very very rapid. to to see sec whether, on lifting lifting it il out, the the drops drops of of jam jam fall faU off off easily easiJy or or slowly. slowly, As As soon soon as these these drops drops collect colleet in in the the centre of of the the skimmer skimmer and slide slowly off, the the jam jam is ready. ready. It It is is cooked 32o-33 cooked to 10 a a degree degree called jelling jelling 32°33° (104.5'C., (I04'5°C., 220"F. 220°F. on the the sugar sugar thermometer). thermometer). Potting, Pnlling, sealing sealing and and conservation. conservation, As As soon as as the the jam jam has has achieved achieved the the stage stage known known as as jelling, jelling, remove remove the the pan pan from from the the fire. lire. Allow Allow the the jam jam to to cool for for a few few minutes. minutes. Fill FiJJ the the pots, pots, having having heated heated them them gradually gradually beforehand beforehand so so as as to to prevent prevent them them from from cracking. cracking. Put Put the the pots pots on on aa table table and leave leave them them till till the the following following day. day. Then cover coyer the the surface surface of of the the jam jam with with aa glycerine glycerine paper paper or or paraffin paraffin waxo wax, and and seal seal the the top top of of the the pot pot with witb aa double double paper paper tightly tightly tied lied with with string. string, Gum on on labels labels indicating indicating the the type Iype of of jam jam and and store store in in a very dry place. place, very dry jam-making and Failures Failures ininjam-making and remedies. remedies. The The jam jam remains remains runny. runny, - There is is lack lack of of pectin. peetin, Add Add some sorne apple apple jelly. jelly. The The jam jam crystallises. crystallises. -- The The fruits fruil~ are are insufficiently insufficiently acid. acid, Cook Cook again, again, adding adding lemon lemon juice, juice, or Or tartaic lartaric or or citric citric acid. acid. The The jam jam develops develops mould. mou Id. - The The jars jars are are inadequately inadequately sealed. sealed. Remove Remove the the mould mould and and cover cover with with meltod melted paraffin paraffin wax. wax. The The jam jam ferments. ferments. - The cooking cooking has has been been insufficient. insufficient. Cook Cook again. again. Recipes Recipes for for jams jams and and jellies jellies are given given below; below; recipes reeipes for for marmalade marmalade will will be be found found under under the the separate separate heading heading MARMALADE. MARMALADE,

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JAMS. JAMS, coNFIrrJREs CONFITURESApricot Apricot jm jam I. I. coNFlrrrRr CONFITURE D'ABRIcors D'ABRICOTS -- For For I1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb.) apricots apricots which which are are ripe, ripe, net net weight weight stoned, stoned, 750 750 g. g, (l+ (It lb., lb., 33 cups) cu ps) sugar. sugar. Put Put the the sugar sugar in in aa pan pan with with IJ dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant! t

"up)

cup) cup) water. water. Let Let the the sugar sugar dissolve, dissolve, then then boil boil for for 55 minutes minutes and and

jam. jam,

skim. skim, Add Add the the apricots. apricots. Cook Cook till till the the jelling jelling stage stage is is reached, reached, as as described described above. ab ove, Finish Finish according according to to the the instructions instructions above above adding, adding, at at the the last last moment, moment, some sorne of ofthe the apricot apricot kernels kernels which which have have been been previously previously shelled shelled and and divided divided in in two. Iwo, Apricot jam tr. coNFIrr.JRE CONFITURE D'ABRrcors D'ABRICOTS -- For For I1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb.) lb.) Apricot jam net net weight weight of of apricots, apricots, 800 800 g. g, (l* (H lb., lb., 3t 3! cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scanl jt cup) cup) water. waler. Fut Put the the fruit, fruit, sugar sugar and and water water in in aa pan. pan. Let Let the the sugar sugar melt, melt,

Raspberry Raspbeuyiam. jam. @NFrruRE CONFITURE DE DE FRAMBorsns FRAMBOISES -- Remove Remove stems stems from from raspberries. raspberries, Choose Choose ripe ripe but but firm firm fruit. fruit. Put Put in in aa copper copper pan. l6'C. (240"F.). pan. Cover Cover with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to I116°C (240°F.), For For I1 kg. kg, (2 (2 lb.) lb.) of of fruit fruit use use I1kg. kg. Qlb.,4 (2 lb" 4 cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Heat Heat gently gently on on aa small small flame flame or or in in aa double double cooker cooker so so that that the the sugar sugar thoroughly thoroughly penetrates penetra tes the the fruit. fruit Remove Remove from from the the heat heat, and and leave leave overnight. ovemight. Next Next morning morning drain drain the the raspberries raspberries very very carefully carefully without without crushing crushing them, them, and and put put the the syrup syrup back back on on the the stove. stove. Add Add an an

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516

JARDINIERE (A LA)

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g. (l+ (2 lb.) 750 g. lb., 3 kg. (2 lb.) strawberries (net (net weight), weight), 750 Oi lb., I kg. scant 1 cups) sugar, tablespoons, seant sugar, 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, t cup) water. water and cook to ball Dissolve the sugar in a pan with the water bail well. (116°C.. 240"F.), skimming weIl. stage (l16"C., in the stalks removed, removed, in the dissolved the strawberries, stalks Put the for aa few stove for Keep the the side side of the sugar. the pan pan on on the the stove sugar. Keep juice from the the strawberries has thinned minutes. When the juice the sugar sugar to aa syrupy consistency, drain the fruit through a silk strainer. Cook the syrup again in the pan until it reaches (240"F.) once more. Put the 116°C. (240°f,) the strawberries back in the 116"C. pan and cook for 55 or 6 minutes, to the point at at which which the jam jelling stage. Finish in the usual way. jam reaches the tbejelling pints, DE TOMA roMArEs I litre (l(lf,~ pînts, coxrrrunn DE Tomalo jam. CONFITURE TES - 1 Tomato jam. generous quart) drained kg. (2 drained tomato pulp, 1I kg. generous Q lb., 44 cups) pint, water, 3 dl. dl. (t dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant cup) waler, sugar, 1 dl. @ pint, vanilla pod. It cups) apple juice, 1I vanilla vanilla pod. Cook Dissolve the sugar in the water with the vanilla to the ball baIl stage (116'C.,240"F.). 240"F.). sieving it first. Add the tomato pulp to the pan, sievÎng firsL Cook on aa until the the time with the skimmer until with the lively heat, heat, stirring ail all the jam reaches the jelling stage. stage. jam Finish in the the usual way. juice may be used. juice, gooseberry gooseberry juice used. The Instead of apple juice, jelling element to addition of juice is necessary to supply the thejelling ofjuice jam sets praperly. properly. the tomatoes, 50 (hat the jam so that jam. CONFlTIJRE For 1 kg. DE p.lsriQuss Watermelon jam. PASTÈQUES - For coxrtruRE DE (2 lb.) rind and removing rind net weight weight aCter after removing (2 lb.) watermelon, watennelon, net (lllb., seeds, 750 g. (1 ~ lb., 3 cups) fine sugar. Melon jarn. same way as as for Melonjam. Proceed in the same

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pints, Cherry jelly. }elly. crr6o GELÉE DE DE cERrsEs CERISES - For For 1 litre litre generorxi (l lb. 14 oz.,3t generous quart) quart) cherry cherry juice juice use use 850 850 g. (l oz., Ji cups) (6 tablespoons, sugar, G (1 pint, lfi li cups) apple juice, juice, 1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) water. waler. Proceed in the same &ame way as as for Currant Curranl jelly jelly (se (see below). Clrrrant Cummt jelly jeUy I. I. csr"fE GELÉE DE DE GRosEILLEs GROSBlLLES - Use Use two-thirds redcurrants g. (4 and one-third white. oz.) raspberries redcurrants and white. 125 ] 25 g. (4 oz.) raspberries are currants. are added to each I1 kg.Q kg. (2 lb.) curranls. Crustr currants and and raspberries together and and strain Crush the the currants them them through through a cloth cio th which whicb is Îs wrung at both botb ends. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar, slightly moistened with with hot hot water, allowing 1 kg. allowing kg. (2 for each each litre litre (scant (seant quart, Q lb., 4 cups) for quart) fruit juice. generous generous quart) juice. Cook to the jelling jelling stage on on a good heat. C\rrant II. csr6n ennant jelly n. GELÉE DE DE GRosETLLEs GROSEILLES - Add Add the currants and the raspberries dissolved in ras;pberr"les to the sugar, which has been been dissolved a pan, allowing 600 g. g. (l+ lb., 2j cups) sugar for every every 1I kg. (21b.) (2 lb.) fruit. keeping the pan on a corner of Allow the fruit to swell, keeping of the stove. Then stove. Then boil quickly until untÎl the jelling stage is is reached. Strain the jelly decant into pots. Straio jeUy and decant juice can also Redcurrant also be obtained in the Redcurrantjuice the following way. Put the currants in a pan with the raspberries. raspberries. Add a glass of water for every 1 kg. (2 lb.) fruit. Keep at a low temperature until the skins burst comes out. out. Strain juice as bUl"st and and the juice juice cornes described above. above. deseribed crrm D'ORANGES D'oRANGES - Rub zest of Orange jelly. GELÉE Rub the the zest of 12 oranges oz., seant scant cup) lump sugar. Add this oranges with 100 g. g. (4 oz., sugar, whîch which has abs.orbed absorbed the fragrant oil of the oranges, to 1 litre litre (If, pints, generous quart) apple juice, obtained as described for Apple jelly. Add the strained juice of the the 12 12 oranges and 900 g. (2 lb., (4 OZ., cups) lump sugar. sugar. Add, Add, if desired, desired, 100 100 g. (4 o2.,3 cup) 77 CllpS) lukewarm crystallised orange peel which has been soaked in lukewarm water and fine strips. and shredded into fine jelly to thejelling the jelling stage stage and finish as dcscribed. described. Cook the thejelly peeled quinces quinces ripe, pceled DE COINGS coINGs -- Cut ripe, cnltn DE Quince jelly. GELÉE Quince of cold cold water as as soon soon as into aa basin into slices. Put them ioto ioto slices. basin of copper pan with water they have been sliced. Cook them in a copper (scant quart, generous quart) quart) quart, generous proportion of in of 1 litre in the proportion litre (seant (l lb.) fruit, without stirring. the as the stirring. As soon as water for 500 g. (1 into aa sieve and drain. fruit is cooked tum turn it Înto (11 lb., g. (Il 8CI g. lb., 3| cups) and add add 800 Put the juice Put juice into into aa pan and generous quart) liquid. (scant quart, quart, generous litre (seant each litre sugar for sugar for each on aa lively heat until the jelly has the sugar. sugar. Cook Cook on Dissolve the jelling stage. reachod the jelling rcachee!

syrup until it coats currant juice. equal equal quantity quantity of of currant juice. Cook this syrup coats a silver spoon. Put the raspberries raspberries in it and bring bring to the boil. currant jelly. Coyer with aa layer of of currant jelly. When the Pot the jam. Cover jam jam is absolutely absolutely cold, coyer cover the pots. I kg. (2 lb.) Rbubarb jam. jam. cowrrrr.JRn CONFlTURE DE RH{TBARBE RHUBARBE - For 1 Rhubarb rhubarb outer fibres rhubarb (net (net weight, wcighl, with with outer fibres removed), removed), 800 800 g. (ltlb., scantlcup) lb., $cups) cups) sugar, I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant îcup) water. rhubarb, according to Skin the stems of young red or green rhubarb, whether one wishes obtain whether One wishes to to ob tain a a jam jam of one one or or the the other colour, and divide into pieces colour, picces 5 cm. (2 inches) long. Wash the pieces, drain, and put put them in with the sugar, which has bas been been dissolved dissolved with the water and boiled for a few minutes. it. Leave Draw the tbe pan 10 coyer il. Leave to one side of the stove and cover for so that for l0 10 minutes sc (hat the rhubarb softens. softens. Return the pan jam reaches 10 full full heat heat and until the jam reaches the and cook, to cook, stirring stirring until jelling jelling stage. Finish Finish in the usual way. .'n"A",/h","", jam. CONFITURE FRAiSES -- The strawberries coxrrrlJRE DE FRArsEs Strawberry jam. must be be selected for for perfect unblemished ripeness. rîpeness. Il is must necessary. In wash them unless absolutely necessaty. advisable not to wash well drained and dried before befMe cookthis case they should be weil

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given, in name glven, This was was the the name DE BOIS BOIS SOUP -- This JAMBE DE principal ingredient was clearFoup to a clear former times, 10 ,soup whose principal piece of leg it was was ready, the leg of of beef on on the the bone. bone. When it aa piece (It was as as though aa wooden away from the bone. bone. (It meat fell fell away from the floating in the the soup, hence its name.) leg was fioating

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pomms -- This jelly. GELÉE jelly IS cslfE DE os POMMES This jelly is made by cutting peeling them good cooking apples into slices slices without without peeling or them or apples mto pips. The ripe and The fruit removing the fruit should should be be ripe and perfectly removing the pips.

HAM. JAMBON -- Sec See also also HAM. JA,l\1BON sous la la cendre -- Name which which is is often Jambon de de Prague sous Jambon (Prague, York used in in menus menus to ham (Prague, to describe ham York or or other) used cooked in in pastry.

sound. sound. preserving pan pan with pints, litres (2f, plots, Cook them thern in in aa preservîng with Il litres Cook (2 lb.) pints) water for for every ke. (2 lb.) fruit. fruit. As As soon soon as as the 3f pints) every 1I kg. 3i jelly-bag placed placed over aa turn them into aa jelly-bag apples are cooked, tum large basin. g. (l~ lb., for every litre (scant Add 800 800 g. 1b.,3+ 3i cups) sugar for mustbe quart, generous quart) juice, which must be obtained without jell. This pressure. Cook This stage stage is is reached until it begins begins to jeU. pressure. Cook until is let faU fall from the skimmer onto aa plate when a drop ofjelly is wben without spreading. jelly isis lukewanu. lukewarm, and and coyer cover thcm them Fill the the pots when the jelly Fill the the following day. day.

(A LA) -- A number of of differem different dishes are A number JAPONAISE JAFONAISE (À that the,n have this in common, that called àd lajaponaise. Most of them included Chinese (in French, called Japanese) artichokes are Încluded rs sometimes sometimes called salad is Francillon sa/ad in in the the ingredients. Francillon from mussels, mussels, potatoes and It isis made from salade àd la japonaise. ft younger Alexandre Dumas the younger truffies, and was invented by Alexandre trumes, Mixed salads). (see SALADS, Mixedsalads). made to an an iced bombe made is also applîed applied to The tenu term japonaise Îs The filld with tea-ftavoured tea-flavoured mousse. of peach ice cream filled (A LA) -- Name given given to gamish made JARDINIERE (À to aa garnish made of of JARDINIÈRE

JELLIES. GELÉES cerErs Appte

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INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. JAPAI\ -- See INTERNATIONAL JAPAN

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JASMIN JASMIN fresh vegetables vegetables -- caHOts (shaped with carrots and and tumips turnips (shapcd plain or with aa plain or fresh fluted baIl-scoop, ball-scoop, cut cut with with aa hollow hollow tubular tubular cutter, cutter, or or diced), diced), tluted greql peas, peas, small (dicd or small kidney kidney beans, beans, French French beans beans (diced or eut cut into lozenges), lozenges), cauliflower, cauliflower, etc. etc. These These vegetables are cooked are cooked separately, sorne some boiled, boiled, others glazd. They are arranged others glazed. ,,separately, round the the main main dish dish in in separate separate groups. groups. This gamish garnish isis round served with with roast, roast, stewed stewed or pot-roasted or braised braisod meat meat and and pot-roasted served

triangles are provide aa decorative are used used ta to provide decorative border border for for aa C()ld cold triangles dish. dish. jelly which They are are made made from from very very stiff stiff meat meat or or fish fish jelly which isis They first eut (2 inches) cut into into strÎps strips about about 55 cm. cm. (2 inches) wide, wide, and and then then first shapod iota into elongated elongated triangles produce aa dog's triangles ta to produce dog's tooth tooth shaped effect. effecL jelly may The jelly may also also he cut into be cut into other pastryother shapes, shapes, using using pastryThe cutters. cutters.

poultry. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) poultry.

JASMIN -- Plant Plant corlt.al.nU:lg containing JASMIN

a powerfully scented substance which is is used in oriental used in oriental cookery and confectionery. which

MEAT JELLIES. JELLIES. GELÉES crrEss DE vTANDE DE VIANDEMEAT poun GELÉE jelly stock. Meat jelly stock. FONDS FoNDs POUR crr6r DE op VIANDE vreNon - InfteMeat gredients. For For 51i 5 litres quarts) of ofjelly: gredients. tres (5| quarts) jelly: Nourishing ingredienlS. (41b.) (leg), ingredients. 22 kg. ke. (4} beef (leg) kg. Nourishing lb.) bœf , 1t kg. (3* lb.) lb.) knuckle knuckle of (31 lb.) of veal, veal, kg. kg. (3t lb.) veal veal and and beef beef bon bones (Ji es sawn in pieces, 33 calves' in small small pieces, (boned and calves' feet feet (boned and blanched, blanched, sawn with the the bones bones ground), 250 250 g. (t lb.) bacon bacon rlods. rinds. wîth $ lb.) Aromatic ingredients. ingredients. 2 or 3large carrots, 22 medium medium onions, Aromatic onions, leeks, 33 stalks stalks of celery, celery, bouquet bouquet of of herbs, salt salt and and pepper. 22 leeks, (9 quarts) quarts) water. water. Liquid. S| litres (9 Put the (tied with the beef, the the veal veal (tied with string) and and the the bones in aa bones in Put pan and brown slightly in and brown in butter. butter. Transfer Transfer the the rneat meat and and bones to to aa large large stockpot, brown brown them thern further further with with the the carrots, onions, leeks and celery. Pour in water. in the water. carrots, pan in Rinse the the pan in which which the the meat meat and and bones bones were were first Rinse first browned with with aa liule little water, water, and and add add this this to to tbe the ",,,,n.".",","'" ingredients browned in the the stockpot. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, and and add add the ca calves' in Ives' feet and bacon bacon rinds, rinds, tied tied with with string, string, and and the the bouquet of feet and herbs. Season. Season. Simmer Simmer gently for about 5 to 6 hours. herbs, Strain this this stock stock through muslin muslin or or aa fine fine strainer. strainer. To Strain jelly, clariff itit in the usual way. tum it into aspic jelly, poun GELÉE Chicken jelly stock. FONDS FoNDs POUR crlfs DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Use preparation as for ordinary jelly adding, the same same method of of preparation over ingredients, aa pullet which has been over and above the basic Ingredients, browned oven or, alternatively, browned in the oyen alternatively, lf kg. (31lb.) lb.) chicken giblets, also browned in advance in the oyen. oven. carcase and gib!ets, When intended as When this fuis jelly jelly stock is intcnded as aa garnistr for galantine, tine, the galantine takes the place of of the pullet and should be cookod in the stock. cooked stock. Fi$ jelly stock. stock FoNDs FONDS poun POUR csr,Er GELÉE DE porssoN POISSON -- This stock is as ooncentrated concentrated fish is made in in the the same same way way as fish stock stock (see (see STOCKS) from STOCKS) from the following following basic ingredients. Ingredients. For lb.) For 5litres 5 litres (5f (51 quarts):500 . 500 lb.) fish fisb bones bones and trimmings trimmings of of turbot, turbot, brill or sole sole (U.S. flounder flounder or or haddock) haddock) or or an equivalent quantity quantity of of fish fish such as as whiting, gurnet, gumet, w@ver, etc., 2 medium weever, etc., medium onions onions (finely (finely sliced), mushroom mushroom peelings, celery, parsley parsley roots, roots, thyme, laurel. la ure 1. This stock may may be be made made with water but it it is better made made wrthfishfuntet (see (sec FUMET) FUMET) prepared prepared in in advance. advanœ. Fi$ jelly stock stock with witb red roo wine. wine. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR csrfn GELÉE os DE polssoN AU vrN VTN RoucE ROUGE -- This This stock is Îs used used in cooking the tbe POISSON AU various various fish fish served served in red red wine wine jelly jelly (salmon (salmon trout, trout, brown brown tfout, trout, carp, etc.). etc.). ItIt may may be prepared prepared like like ordinary ordinary fish fish jelly, jelly, with with the the same same basic basic ingredients ingredîents and and flavouringg flavourmgs, to 10 which which are are added added equal parts of Fish fumer and Fisn of red red wine wine (Burgundy (Burgundy or or Claret) Claret) and fumet (see

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(51

JAY. csAt - Bird regarded as a delicacy when it is young. The fully grown birds may also be eaten, but they must be boiled before roasting. These jays differ from the jays of

Illl

North America. European jays have a pinkish-brown body, white rump, black tail, white patch on wings, black and white crown feathers, blue and black wing coverts.

jelly is, JELLY. GELÉE cELfo -- A A jelly is, first first of of aU, all, aa c1ear clear meat or I1sh fish meat or JELLY. stock which which solidifies solidffies when gelatinous when cold, cold, by by virtue virtue of of the the gelatinous stock substances contained contained in in il. it. substances jellies were In former former times, times, meat fish jellies meat and and fish were prepard with with In jellies are hart's homo horn. Nowadays, Nowadays, these these jellies are prepared in a more hart's natural way, way, by by including includinggelatinous bones in the the stock orby stock or natural gelatinous bones by quantity of gelatine ta adding aa quantity of gelatine preparation to il. it. ItIt isis this this preparation which was was once called aspic. once called Gelatine should should not not be used used ta excess in to excess in the the preparation of of Gelatine jellies. Whenever possible it meat jeJlies. Whenever possible it should should be left out out altoaltomeat gether, and possible wbere and this this is is possible where the the stock stock is is made made from from gether, naturally gelatinous parts of of the the meat., meat, su such as veal veal knuckles knuckles naturally ch as and calves'feet, poultry. rind, and and poultry. and feet, fresh bacon rind, In name jelly given ta preserve, made is given to aa preserve, ln jam-making, jam-making, the the name jelly is juice and from sugar, which, and sugar, which, by by aa carerul careful control control of of from fruit fruit juice temperature cooking, is the required contemperature in io cooking, is reduced reduced to to the required consistency. Jelly Jelly may quinces, currants, made from apples currants, apples sistency. may be be made from quinces, and (see JAMS containing pectin JAMS AND AND JELJELand other other fruits fruits containing pectin (see LrES). LIES). Certain sweets These are Certain sweets are are also also callod called jellies. jellics. These are made made from from various various fruit fruit juices with with sugar and and aa variable variable quantity of of gelatine gelatine added, or or made made by by the old old method, method, with with calf's calf's foot jelly. jelly. Jellies Jellies are are also also made made from from fresh fresh and and dried dried vegetables, vegetables, and and cereals. cereals. These These are are mainly used used as as invalid invalid foods. foods. Recipes for for given them them are are giveo further further on on in this this section section and and elsewhere elsewhere in this this volume. volume. Clarificatian Clarification ofjellies. ofjellies. Jelly Jelly stocks stocks must must always always be be clarified clarified to to ensure ensure perfect perfcct transparency, whether whether they they have have a a meat, meat, fish fish or or vegetable vegetable base, base, and and after they have have been been prepared according according to ta the the instructions instructions and and have have been reduced (with or without without gelatine) gelatine) to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency. Instructions Instructions for for clarification clarification ofjelly of jel1y stocls stocks are are given given under under ASPIC. ASPIC. Methods Methods for for clarifying meat, meat, fish fish and and vegetable vegetable stocks stocks are are also also grven given in in the article article on on CULINARY CULIN AR Y METHODS. METHODS. Chopped Cbopped jelly. crrfr GELÉE rncrrn HACHÉE -- Chopped Chopped meat meat or or fish fish jelly jelly is tS used used as as aa gamish for for cold cold dishes. dishes. To To obtain obtain the the best best results, results, jelly plaoe on place the the on a a cloth c10th which whieh has has bee,n been dipped dipped in in cold cold water, water, wrung wrung out out thoroughly and and spread spread out out on On the the table. table. Chop Chop the the jelly jelly with with aa large large knife. It Il must must be he arranged arranged round round the the dish dish with with aa spoon spoon and and not, oot., as as is ÎS often often done, done, squeezed squeezed through through aa forcing-bag. Treated Treated in in the the latter latter way, way, the the jelly jelly tends tends to to lose lose its its colour and and becomes bec ornes cloudy. Set Set pieces in iD ielly. jelly. ArrELErs AITELETS oe DE cerfo GELÉE -- These set set pieces, pieces, which were were much much used used in in former fonner times times to to enhance enhance the the appearance of of aa cold eold dish, dish, have have now now almost almost disappeared, disappeared, although, ",,,"vUj::,.I.', on on occasions, occasions, they they still still appear appear as as aa feature fea ture of ofaa cold cold buffet. buffet. Jelly Jelly hiaryIes. triangles. cno0roNs CROÛTONS ns DE cfrm GÉLEE -- These These cro0tons croûtons or or

g.(l

FUMET).

Grme jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS por.rn POUR csr,6E GELÉE DE DE crBrER GIBll'.R -- The The same same method method is used as as that that given givcn for for ordinary ordinary jelly. jelly. Use Use the the same same basic basic ingredients, ingredients, adding adding about about lf 1t kg. kg. (3 (3 lb.) lb.) game game carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings which which have have been been previously previously browned browned in in the the oven. oven. Add Add celery, celery, tiyme, bay bay leaf leaf and and 88 to to l0 10 juniper juniper berries benies to to the the usual usua] flavourings. fl"'ul'\" .. ,,~a,, White White jelly jelly stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS poun POUR cst,fo GELÉE BLANcHE BLANCHE - Made Made from from the tbe same same basic basic ingredients ingredients and and flavourings ftavourings as as ordinary ordinary jelly, jelly, but but without without browning browning the the meat meat or or bones. bones.

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VEGETABLE VEGET ABLE JELLIES. JELLIES. certns GELÉES ps DE rfcuMEsLÉGUMES - These Thesejellies, jellies, which which are are prepared prepared from from various various dried dried vegetables, vegetables, cereals cereals 518 5J8

JELLY JELLY pArs DE poMMEs - 'Choose good, sound, Apple paste jelly. PÂTE oE POMMES sound, - 'Choose good, cooking apples, peel them cooking ove cores. them and rem remove cores. Put Put into into aa pan with with water, water, and cook, cook, turning with with aa wooden spoon spoon from to time, until time to until they have have been softened. softened. Remove, Remove, strain strain juioe into aa bowlleaving the juice bowl leaving the apples apples in in the the sieve sieve until cold, cold, then rub the pulp through aa sieve. Put over over the the tire fire and and cook cook pan into down by half. Remove Rernove from from heat, transfer from from the pan into precaution which an an earthenware or glazed china bowl -- aa precaution $a;zed china cannot be stressed too much. 'Clari$ the 'Clarify the same same amount of sugar, cook itit to to small small crack crack pan off the degree (see SUGAR), take pour in take the the pan the tire, fire, pour in the the apple pulp, stir the mixture thoroughly with aa wooden spoon and place on on aa low low heat. heat. Allow to to heat until until the the mixture shivers very slightly. you begin slightly. Stir all all the the time until until you begin to to see see the bottom bottom of the pan. Then proceed to pour into moulds as as (below.' (Le (I* Confiseur moderne.) described described (below.' pArr D'ABRICOTS jelty. PÂTE paste jeUy. Apricot paste 'Choose sound, o'lBnlcors -- 'Choose sound, ripe ripe put into aa pan with water, apricots, stone stone them, put water, stand stand over over the fire fire and, and, as as soon soon as as boiling is established, established, remove remove and and drain. drain. Rub Rub through through aa sieve sieve at at once once to to extract extract ail all pulp, collecting collecting it it in in aa bowl. bowl. Throw Throw away away the the skin. skin. Weigh Weigh the pulp and boil down by half. Take out of the pan and transfer into an earthenware earthenware or china china bowl. Clariff the same same quantity of sugar as (see of as you have pulp and cook to small crack degree (see crack degree SUGAR). it, stirring with a wooden spoon. SUGAR). Pour the pulp into intoit, stirringwithawoode,n spoon. When the When the mixture is the pan on is smooth, stand stand the on low low heat aga in, stirring again, stirring all the time until the bottom bottom of the pan can can be be seen, then remove from the heat. 'Put moulds mou Ids of heart-shaped, etc.) of different different shapes shapes (round, heart-shaped, on a tinned metal sheet, fill them with the apricot and sheet, fil! and sugar confection, confection, smoothing the surface surface with knife. When smoothing the When the with aa knife. mou Ids are filled, dust them with sugar and put them moulds therr into aa hot drying-oven. Two days la ter take the confections out of later of them out onto aa sieve, the mould, turn them sieve, dust with sugar, leave drying-oven for aa day, in aa drying-oven day, then store in tins with well-fitting Iids, placing placing the confections in lids, in rows and and putting aa sheet sheet of of white paper between (I* '-',,,,,,,.,,,,., white between each each layer.' layer.' (Le Confisanr ,''VU"",,,::. moderne.) Cherry paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE DE Cherry os CERISEScERIsEs-'Choose very ripe red cherries. Remove Remove stalks stalks and stones, putting the cherries into as you do so. Then transfer thern into a pan and put a bowl as over the fire. Bring them to the boil, stirring with a wooden through aa sieve spoon. Rub through sieve to extract ail all the pulp, collecting collecting the pulp and it in aa bowl. Boil down by half. half, weigh welgh the and pour into the same a china bowl. Clarify the same weight of sugar, sugar, cook to bail ball degree (see SUGAR), add add the cherry pulp and and proceed as jelly. (Le Conin the the reclpe for described in for Apricot paste jelly.' fiseur moderne.) moderne.) fiseur PÂTE DE DE VERJUS Grape paste paste jelly. rArn Gnpe good green grapes vnRrus-- 'Pick good basin with off the the bunches bunches and and put into off into aa basin with aa little little water. Bring on aa high flame. flame. When the the grapes swell to the boil on swell and and burst, burst, strain the the juice into aa bowl, bowl, leaving the strain the grapes to drip. Then Then them through through aa sieve, rub them collecting the sieve, collecting the pulp in in aa bowl. Put Put it it into aa pan, set set on on aa low low flame, flame, boil down by half into half and and weigh. weigh. amount of ClarifY the the same same amount Clariff of sugar, sugar, cook to small baIl ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take off the the heat, heat, pour in (see the grape pulp and and in the add 100 100 g. g. (4 oz.,l oz., cup) apple pulp per 450 add g. (l 1b.,2 cups) 450 g. cups) as described grape pulp. pulp. Mix Mix well and proceed as grape described above.' above.' (Le Confueur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) (I* Greengage paste paste jelly. pArn PÂTE ne DE RETNES-cLAUDEs REINES-CLAUDES - 'Pick the Greengage the - 'Pick gn:enga:ges when when they they are are very very ripe. Stone, greengages into aa pan Stone, put into with a a little water, water, and and bring to to the boil. boil. Strain the with the juice, leaving the the greengages greengages on on the sieve sieve to to cool. cool. When When they they are are rub them them through through the the sieve, the pulp cold, rub cold, pulp and, weigh the sieve, weigh and, amount of of sugar, proceed as allowing the the same same amount allowing sugar, proceed as described described (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) ab ove.' (k above.' PÂTE oe DE MIRABELLES-'Choose MIRABELLES- 'Choose sound Mirabelle paste pastejeUy. jelly. pArn Mirabdle sound put into into cold cold water. mirabelles, peel, stone stone them them and and put mirabelles, water. Place Place pan over the tire, stirring with a wood en spoon them in a the,m in a pan over the fire, stirring with a woode,n spoon until uetil

particularly as and as invalid invalid foods. and fresh fresh herbs, herbs, are are used used particularly Pectose is a In unripe a constituent of all aU these these vegetables. In fruit and vegetables, it is present state but, present in an insoluble state as or vegetable ripens, ripens, it it changes changes into as the the fruit fruit or into soluble pectin. Fresh GELÉE on DE rivrs FÈvES rndcsrs FRAîCHES - Put Fresb bean bean jelly. jelly. crr6r Put ripe, shelled little water, water, cover in a a saucepan. saucepan. Add Add aa Iittle shelled beans beans in tightly, and cook. From From time time to time, time. while they are cooking, add a little little water so that the liquid level in the pan remains remains constant. constant. When When the beans are cooked, sieve thern. them. Press the vegetables aU the the juice, juice, which makes aa jelly jelly with tables gently to extract all a very high albumen content. content. In In the the same sa me way, jellies jellies can can be be extracted extracted from from small small kidney beans, beans, French (string) (string) beans, green peas and various kidney other fresh fresh vegetables. vegetables. other

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DESSERT (SWEET) (SWEET) JELLIES. JELLIES. cELfEs GELÉES DESSERT

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D'ENTREMETS D'ENrRErrdErs

Sweet jellies jellies are made with a base of powdered gelatine or French leaf leaf gelatine gelatine dissolved dissolved in water or (rarely) (rarely) from calf's French foot jelly plus sugar and water. This This base is flavoured either foot with liqueur, a dessert wine, or a fruit juice. For liqueur jellies, the liqueur is added after clarifying the

jelly.

I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant l| (l| pints, 2 pints) base.

cup) liqueur is used to

9 dl. jelly

Jellks made frm fuicy fruits. csrf;Es DE FR(nrs AeuEr.x Use lemons, lemons, oranges, tangerines, pineapple, grapes, etc. The Use of the fruit is addd added to the dissolvod dlssol'ved gelatine. filtered juice juice of filtered GELÉE A À ul LA rrroscovrrn MOSCOVITEMuscovite jelly. jeHy. cnrfn Muscovite - This jelly is made

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in the the usual usual way, flavoured flavoured with liqueur or fruit juice and in

poured poured into a hinged mould, called caUed a 'Muscovite' Mllscoviite' mould, mould, preparation of which must must be be completely completely airtight, airtight, as as in the preparation which ice cream. cream. ice The special special feature feature of of this this jelly jelly is that it is is covered covered with aa The of frost. frost. thin coating coating of thin Red fruit jdlies. jellies. cprfss GELÉES DE DE FRrJrrs FRUITS RoucEs ROUGES - Cherries, Cherries, Red strawberries, raspberries, redcurrants, redcurrants, etc. etc. Only Only very ripe strawberries, Put the the fruit through through a fine sieve. Add fruit should be be used. Put fruit between I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *t cup) and 33 dl. (* (t pint, between cups) water water to to !t litre litre (scant (scant pint, 2f 2i cups) cups) juice, juice, according ac(~Or,dl[tg lfli cups) to the the pectin pectin content con ten t of of the the fruit. to Filter this this fruit fruit juice, juice, and and add add it in two stages stages to the calf's Filter or the the gelatine, dissolved dissolved in advance, advance, to ensure ensure the foot jelly jelly or foot right consistency. consistency. right GELÉE A À r.l LA nussn RUSSE - This sweet is made like Russian jelly. jelly. crrfE Russian other jellies, jellies, with with various various flavourings. flavourings. It is whisked on ice other until itit begins begins to to set, poured into a mould mould as as quickly as as until put on on ice ice to to set set completely. completely. Turn Turn out out on on aa napand put possible, and kin. GELÉES DE DE FRtnrs FRUITS A À Novr,ux NOYAUX - Apricots, Stone fruit. fruit. cer6rs Stone -as nectarines, peaches, peaches, plums, pl ums, etc., etc., are are often used used as nectarines, a garnish with different different fruit fruit jellies. jellies. with The jelly jelly itself itself may may also also be be made made from these these fruits. The Dip the the fruit fruit in in boiling boiling water water and peel. peel. Cook slowly in Dip Make the the jelly jelly from the syrup. Leave Leave in in the the syrup until until cold. cold. Make syrup. in the usual usual way. way. syrup and and clarify in syrup GeneraHy, fruit jellies jellies should be be flavoured flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, Generally, or some sorne other other liqueur. liqueur. maraschino or maraschino GELÉE DE DE FRUrrs FRUITS A À r.e LA suEoorse SUÉDOISE - Fruit Swedisb fruit fruit jelly. csrfo Swedish - Fruit put in in the the mould, mould, with various various jelly, garnished after itit is put of fruit fruit which which have have been been cooked cooked in in syrup syrup and and kinds of thoroughly drained. drained. thoroughly GELÉES lux A UX vINs VINS DIvERs DIVERS - Champagne, Various wine winejellies. jeUies. crrnus Various - Cham pagne, Frontignan, Madeira, Madeira, Marsala, Marsala, port, sherry, sherry, etc. etc. 3 3 dl. dl. Frontignan, (1 pint, pint, lf li cups) wine wine should should be be usod to to every every 77 dl. (lf pints, pints, (* pints) jelly jelly base. l|li pints)

t

PASTEJELLIES JELLIES (Confectionery). (Confectionery). pAmsPÂTES- These These confections confections PASTE by mixirig mixirlg fruit fruit or or flower flower pulp pulp with with sugar. sugar. are made made by are

519 519

JERBOA they are cooked. eooked. Drain, leave the mirabelles in a sieve until cold, eold, then then rub them through. through. Boil down the quantity by half and and pour from the pan into aa china bowl. Weigh the pulp, clarify cJarîfy the same amount amount of sugar and cook eook to small smaU crack degree (see SUGAR). Pour the pulp into it, stirring with with a wooden spoon to mix, mix, and and proceed proceed to make the jellies jellies as jelly.' (Le (I-e Confiseur described deseribed in the recipe recipe for Apricot Apricot paste pastejelly.' Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Peach Peach paste paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE ns DE ptcnss-'Proceed PÉlCHES- 'Proceed as above above using usiag the following following ingredients: ingredients: 2 kg. kg. (4 (4 lb.) peaches and and 11 kg. (3 lb., 6 cups) sugar.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Pear poste paste jelly. jelly. rAru PÂTE DE DE polRrs POIRES - 'Prepare as Apple Apple paste paste jelly, (Le Confiseur Confueur moderne.) moderne.) jelly, wrng using the pulp of of juicy juiey pears.' pcars.' (Le Quince paste jelly. jeUy. pArs PÂTE or DE colNcs COINGS - 'Choose very very ripe @ince quinces, guinees, cut into ioto quarters, remove the skins and pips, pips, put into into a pan with water and place place over over the fire to soften. soften. Drain, and for Apricot paste and proceed proeeed as as described descdbcd in in the the recipe recipe for paste jelly.' jelly.' (Le Confiseur Moderne.) Confiseur Moderne.\ Raspberry paste jelly. pAre PÂTE pn DE FRAMBoIsFs FRAMBOISES - 'Choose ripe Raspberry raspberries, raspberries, rub rub through through a sieve sieve to extract elttract the pulp. Put over the the fire and and boil down the pulp pulp by half. Weigh, add the same same amount (by (by weight) of sugar sugar cooked cooked to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), and proceed procced as described described above. SUGAR), 'Strawberry 'Strawberry jellies jellies are made made in the same sa me way as raspberry jellies.' jellies.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.) Violet poste paste jelly. jelly. pAre PÂTE pn DE vIoLErrEs VIOLETlCS - 'Take I1 kg. kg. (2 lb.) clean violets, reduce reduce to pulp pulp by bruising bruising in a mortar and add the juioe juice of of 2lemons. 2 lemons. the 'Cook 'Cook 1 kg. kg. (2 (2 lb., lb., 4 4 cups) eups) sugar sugar to to ball ball degree degree (see SUGAR), SUGAR), take take the the pan pan offthe off th.e fire, the, add the the bruised bruiscd violets violets and (1 lb., 2 cups) cups) apple apple jelly, jelly, mix, mîx, and make the jellies jellies as 500 g. (l dcscribed above. above. described Various Various other other flowers, fiowers, such such as orange orange blossom, bJossom. roses, roses, etc., can can be made into jellies jellies in a similar manner.' manner.' (Le Confiseur Confiseur moderne.) moderne.\

Fned Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. TOPINAMBOURS EN FRIToTFRITOT - Cut Fried ToprNAMBorJRs EN in butter. Dip artichokes in thick slices and cook them in the artichokes batter and fry in smoking-hot smoking-hot fat or oil. in light batter Purée of of Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. articbokes. punnn PURÉE DE TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURShrr6e artichokes, cut them in thin slices sliccs and simmer thern them Peel the artichokes, little water in a covered in butter and a little covered pan. Rub through a tbis puree purée and add to it a a sufficient quantity of sieve. Heat this potatoes to give give it the desired desired consistency. consistency. Add a few tablecream and spoons boiling hot milk or cream and 2 or 3 tablespoons fresh butter. butter. Salad of of Jerusalem Jerusalem ertichokes articbokes. s{r,lnn SALADE DE TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURSSalad Made like Potato Po/ato salad(see sa/ad (see SALAD). SALAD). Soutllé of Jemsalem Jerusalem artichokes. artichokes. sourrl6 souFFLÉ DE DE ropINAMTOPINAMSoufl6 BouRs BOURS - Using puree purée of Jerusalem artichoke, artichoke, made made like Potato soufii soufflé (see (sec SOUFFLE). SOUFFLÉ).

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ABDELAVIS - This melon, melon, which ABDELAVTS originally originally came from Egypt, has sweet, sweet, juicy juicy and succulent succulent flesh fiesh which which is much valued as it quenches guenches thirst. Its 115 seeds seeds are used used for making sedative sedative and and tranquilising tranguilising drinks, and and its ils

JERUSALEM MELON.

flesh fiesh is is used used in the manufacture manufacture of of excellent excellent ices, ices, bombes, bom bes, etc.

It n is eaten like like melon.

JESSE -- Fish found found in almost all al! the the rivers of Europe, Europe, in almost rather rather similar in shape sh.ape to the carp. It turns turns yellowish when cooked. It It is fairly fairly delicate delicate but has many many bones bones and is is cooked in the same same way way as as carp carp (q.v.). (q.v.). JÉSUITEsmall pastry pastI)' made made of ofleft-overs of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry .ffSUnf left-overs of - A small

I

dough (see DOUGH).

iaches) Roll out the dough. Cut it into lengths 15 cm. (6 inches) Spread half the lengths with almond almond paste, and cover wide. Spread remaining lengths. Sprinkle Sprinkle with praline praline (q.v.). (q.v.). Cut with the remaining Bake in a moderate oven. oven. into triangles. Bake

.fESUS JÉSUS -- Type Type of pork-liver pork-liver sausage sausage made in Switzerland Switzerland and Franche-Comt6. Franche-Comté. It IL is Îs also also called called Jisu. Jésu. The Jisu Jésu de and Mortemt Morteau is particularly particularly well known. known.

cERBoISE GERBOISE - Small Small rodent rodent about about the the size size of of a squirrel. squirre!. It It is to to be found in all ail parts of of Europe, Europe, and is prepared pared for for the the table table like Uke squirrel (q.v.). (q.v.). Found Found in in southwestern western U.S.A. U.S.A. and Mexico, Mexîco, under under the name name of of kangaroo-rat kangaroo-rat or or pouched pouched mouse. mouse.

JERBOA. JERBOA.

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JOHANNISBEERKUCHEN (German cookery) -- A A GerJOHAhINISBEERKUCHEN redcurrant tart. (See (Sec TARTS, Fruit Fruit tart dà l'allemande.) l'allemande.) man redcurrant JOHANNISBERG -- A village village of of Hesse-Nassau, Hesse-Nassau, in Prussia, Prussia, JOHAI\INISBERG where two two special special vines are grown, the large and the small where white wine is made made from the grapes grapes Riesling. A famous dry white of these these vines. vines. of

JERUSALEM JERUSALEM ARTICHOKE. ropIN.auBouR TOPTNAMBOtffi -- Plant originating in North America and imported into France at the beginning beginning of of the the seventeenth seventeenth century. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, artichokes, also known and poires known as artichauts artichauts fu du Canada and poires de terre,were terre, were not much mueh liked at the the start, but were established, like the

JOHN JOHN DORY.

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sArNr-prERRE SAINT-PIERRE -

Fish, also also known known to to the Fish,

French as and poule as dorie, dorée, Jemt-Dori Jean-Doré and poule de de mer. mer. It Il is is very oddly shaped, shaped, oval in in form, and flat, fiat, with a large large spiny spiny head. oddly Its ILs skin is is thick thîck and and it is is covered covered with with very very small scales. The The first first dorsal fin consists consists of of nine nîne spines spin es held held together together by by

potato, potato, by Parmentier. Parmentier. They They are at their their best best on the borderborderline hne of of winter winter and spring. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes are are firm firm in in consistency. consistency. They resemble resemble real rcal artichokes artichokes to some extent in flavour ftavour and may be be substituted substituted for thern them in in certain certain preparations. preparations. They They have have a pleasant pleasant taste, but but one one that soon soon palls. palis. Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes Ià Itnnglrrise. l'anglaise. TopINAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS A À t'^a.NGL'ANGLAISE LAISE - Peel Peel the the artichokes, artichokes, divide divide in quarters and cut them them to look look like like pigeons' eggs. Blanch Blanch lightly lightly in salted water water and cook cook gently gently in î.n butter. Season, and stir in in a few tablespoons tablespoons of of rather thn thin Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Simmer for a few minutes. Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Jerusalem artichokes artichokes in in butter. butter. ToprNAMBouRs TOPINAMBOURS AU AU BELTRRE BEURREJenrsalem Cut to to look look like pigeons'eggs. pigeons' eggs. Cook in butter butter like like Chdteau Château potatoes POT A TOES). po/atoes (see POTATOES). Jerusalem JerusaJem artichokes articbokes à la la crbme. crème. TopINAMBoTJRs TOPINA..'.iBOURS A À LA cRiltc CRÈME -- Cut Cut to look look like like pigeons' pigeons' eggs eggs and and simmer sîmmer gently in butter. When they they are are almost cooked, cooked, cover with boiling boiJjng fresh fresh cream cream and finish finish cooking cooking as as slowly slowly as as possible. possible. Season. Season. At At the the last moment moment add add a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of fresh fresh cream. cream. Jerusalem artichokes artichokes dà h la crime crème may also be be preparod prepared with Jerusalem rather rather thin thin Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE).

which ends ends in in a long long filament. filament. On the the flanks flanks is a a membrane which

round round blackish blackish mark, mark, surrounded surrounded by a light grey grey circle. ftesh of of the John Dory Dory is is delicate and and rivals rivais turbot The flesh U .S.A. the Atlantic Atlantic fish, fish, the porgy porgy (called scup and sole. In U.S.A. in New New England), Engiand), could could be be used used for Jobn John Dory Dory recipes. It may be cooked whole, wbole, grilled, braised or poached poached in a court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), but most most often it is îs filleted filleted and cooked court-bouillon the same sa me way as fillets of ofbrill turbot (q.v.) or sole in the brill (q.v.), turbot (q.v.). (g.v.). The John John Dory Dory is also used used as an ingredient ingrcdient of bouillabouilla(g.v.). baisse (q.v.). baisse Fillets of John John Dory Dory Pierre Ctapelle. Chapelle. FILETS FILETS DE DE sArNrSAINTFlllets pIERRE PIERRE pIERRE PIERRE cHApELLE CHAPELLE - Fillet a raw medium-sized medium·sized John John Season with with salt sait and pepper pepper and coat with egg and Dory. Season breadcrumbs. Use Use the skin and and bones bones to to prepare prepare a white white breadcrumbs. wine fish fish stock. stock. Use Use this tbis stock for for a rice ricc pilaf pilaf made made of of 100 100 g. g. wine (4 oz., oz., t! cop) cup) rice ricc tossed tossed in in butter butter with with chopped onions on ions and in the the stock stock for 20 20 minutes. minutes. In In another another pot pot cook cook 50 g. cooked in

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i

520

JUNIPER WINE JUNIPER DE VIANDE vIANDE -- This This is is extracted by by putting Meat luice. JUs DE Meat juice. JUS juice grilled beef special press. The juice slices of lightly grilled beef into aa special cup standing in in a from the press is is collected in in aa cup dripping from bowl of hot water. JUs D'ORANGE, D'oRANGE, or lemon lemon juices. Orange, Seville orange or Seville orange Orange, iuices. JUS juices have have many many uses uses in in the BIGARADE, CITRON cITRoN -- These juices BIGARADE, They are are exrn pdtisserie. kitchen, in in confectionary confectionary and and in kitchen, pâtisserie. They if a the fruit. fruit. The flavour flavour is is enhanced if tractod by squeezing the tracted grated rind is added before straining. straining. little grated D'ANANAs -- Pound fresh pineapple Pineapple juice. rus D'ANANAS Pound fresh Pineapple juice. JUS pounding, mix in a few few tablespoons tablespoons pulp in a mortar. While pounding, juice, plain through muslin. This juice, plain sugar syrup. Strain the pulp through juices, is preparation of fruit juices, is used used in in the the preparation like aIl all other other fruit like desserts. desserts. juices. JUS Made from strawDE FRUITS ROUGES noucns--·Made strawJUs DE Red fruit juices. Rub the or cherries. cherries. Rub the raw berries, raspberries, raspberries, redcurrants or through a fine sieve. fruit through

John Dory

(2 OZ., oz., *t cup) chopped onions gently in butter. Add 4 to 6 (2 large squeezed to to rem remove seeds and large tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, peeled, squeezed ove seeds chopped. Season with salt, Season with salt, pepper, garlic and and 1I teaspoon teaspoon curry powder. Cook together for 20 minutes. Cook the fillets curry of fish in butter. Serve of Serve on top of the pilaf. Surround with the tomatoes.

JOINTING. The action up meat, n6rnglcn -- The action of cutting up JOINTING. DÉPEÇAGE poultry, etc. (See CARVING.) JONCHÉE - See CHEESE. JONCHEE _ CHEESE.

Jujube a. Flower; b. b. Fruit a.

JUDAS-TREE. also grows in JUDA$TREE. GAINIER ceINrm. -- Judean Judean tree which also southem Europe, North North America strongly southern Europe, America and Its.strongly Asia. Its and Asia. scented flowers are pickled in vinegar like capers. JUDRU JUDRU -- A very short, thick saucisson saucisson made at Chagny in Burgundy, Burgundy. JUICE. JUICE. JUSrus- The French French use the tennjus termjas in a somewhat somewhat wider sense than the EngIish English 'juice'. Juice'. Jus is used: ,fus 1. l. As As in in English, of the juice squeezed squeezed out of foodstuffs, juice, orange juice, whether animal or vegetable, vegetable, e.g. e.g. herbaI herbal juice, lemon lemon juice, meat juice, etc. juices of the 2. Of Of the gravy of roast made by diluting the juices of a roast roasting pan or dripping pan (in the case of spit roasts), with cIear en boilclear stock, stock, water or any other suitable suitable liquid, and th then ing it until aU all the goodness in the pan has been absorbed into the stock. juice, extracted pressing slices 3. extracted by slices of lightly 3. Of meat juice, by pressing grilled beef in a special press. press. This juice is grilled is taken taken as aa tonic. (q.v.) or brown 4. 4. Of coulis clear, of brown stock, thickened or c1ear, coulis (q.v.) (See STOCKS, various various kinds kinds of veal. (See of meat, meat, especially especially veal. Veal Veal stock.) juices are Fruit very valuable in in dietitics. Fruit and and vegetable vegetable juices are very Fruit juice is Fruit juice containing vitamins, excellent beverage beverage containing is an an excellent mineraIs fruit. minerals and retaining the the diuretic qualities of whole fruit. and retaining In fact, fact, it has has ail all the assets of the latter without its disadvantages (e.g. indigestibility). Fruit juice is given to babies who cannot digest milk, or or as as aa means of vitamin deficiency deficiency in certain of compensating compensating for the vitamin tinned post-operative patients patients and and concontinned milks. milks. Invalids, Invalids, post-operative valescents ail diets. have fruit or vegetable juices in their diets. all must have juice isis particularly particularly suitable Vegetable for those those who Vegetable juice suitable for cannot raw vegetables or cooked cooked green vegetables cannot tolerate raw and, people who for people who find find cellulose cellulose inand, generally speaking, speaking, for digestible. pourrms This is Applejuice. apple pulp. is made from apple Apple juice. JUS JUs DE POMMES(See APPLE, Apple Apple pectin.) Herb Heft juices. JUS D'HERBEs VERTES vERTEs -- Made from various raw JUs D'HERBES (watercress, chervil, parsley, herbs parsley, tarragon, poundod herbs (watercress, etc.) pounded tarragon, etc.) in a mortar and and strained strained through muslin.

Syrian of Syrian is of JUJUBE The fruit of of the jujube tree tree which which is JUJLJBE -- The grows in including the the south south of origin. origin. It It grows in wann warm c1imates, climates, including of is about about the size size of of an olive, covered France. France. The ovoid fruit is mild with a smooth, red skin. skin. The pulp is yellowish, mild smooth, leathery, red and sweet. sweet. It has aa long stone. stone. jujubes are They are are Dried Dried jujubes to sweeten sweeten medicines. medicines. They are used used to usod in in infusions, soothing and chest, chest, and and are are used soothing to to the the throat and paste, etc. form of decoctions and te, etc. and in in the fonn of pas

JULIENNE -- Tenn Term used JULIENNE used in in French cookery to designate: designate: l. A cIear 1. clear vegetable soup soup made from from clear clear consommé. consomm6. To To shredded vegetables this this stock stock is is added added aa mixture of of finely finely shredded (See cooked cooked very very slowly slowly in in butter butter until until they they are are tender. tender. (See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Consommé Consommi julienne.) 2. 2. Any Any coarsely finely shredded shredded foodstuffs. Thus Thus one coarsely or or finely may of chicken,julienne chicken,Tnlienne of of mushrooms, may say say julienne of of breast of julienne of gherkins, etc. etc. of truffies, truffies, julienne of gherkins, Talienne of JUNIPER cnNrivnr -- The The berries berries of of aa bush JLJNIPER BERRIES. GENrÈVRE gullies. which grows grows wild in woods and and mountain mountain gullies. in woods Juniper berries are are used used to to add add flavour flavour to to marinades, marinades, and (sazerkraut, thrushes, as with certain foods (sauerkraut, as seasoning seasoning with certain foods gin. blackbirds, distillation of of gin. They are are also also used in the distillation blackbirds, etc.). etc.). They

(vm DE MediJUNIPER on GENIÈVRE) cemivnn) -- MediWINE. GENEVRETTE cENEvRETTE (VIN JLTNIPER WINE. (See BEVERAGES, cinal berries. (See BEVERAGES, drink made made from juniper berries. cinal drink Juniper hippocras.) Juniper hippocras.) to be in This be made in This name is is also also given to aa wine which used to the Gâtinais seeds. district from absinthe absinthe and and juniper seeds. Gfltinais district 521 521

JUPITER'S JUPITER'S BEARD BEARD

julietue : first Slicing Slicing vegctables vegetablesjulienne: tirst and and second second steps steps ((Larousse) Larousse)

JOUBARBE JUPITER'S BEARD. Jot BARBE

--

given to several Name given

plants plants with with fleshy fieshy leaves. leaves. Among these are the houseleek houseleek or wild artichoke, artichoke, and the the white white stonecrop, which which is edible, its wild

leaves being being eaten eaten in in salad. salado leaves Basses-Pyrénées, I1 km. JURANÇON -- Small Small town town in the Basses-Pyr6nees, JLJRAI\CON

(f
Juniper berries berries Juniper (Rap) (Rap)

father, the the King King of of Navarre, Navarre, after after having having rubbed rubbed the the baby's baby's father, of garlic, garlic, made made him swallow swallow aa few few drops of lips with with aa clove clove of lips Jurançon. The The royal royal infant infant having having come come tlrough through this this Jurangon. bacchic ordeal ordeal very very creditably, creditably, his his grandfather, grandfather, in a frenzy bacchic of enthusiasm, enthusiasm, cried: cried: 'You 'Vou are are a real real B6arnais.' Béarnais.' of White Jurangon Jurançon is is aa full-blooded full-blooded and intoxicating intoxicating wine. White With age, age, itit acquires acquires aa strong strong flavour flavour of of Madeira. Madeira. With A red red Jurangon Jurançon isis also also made, made, but but is is less less popular popular than than the the A white. These These wines wines are are made made by by mixing mixing the the grapes grapes of of several several white. different vines vines in in the the vat, vat, bul but, curiously curiously enough, enough, the the grapes grapes of different the Jurangon Jurançon vine vine are are not not among among them. them. the

522 522

KALTSCHALE (Russian (Rlissian cookery) -A fruit salad salad liberally -A

crust Bake Sake in aa hot oven for for 2 hours. hours. Remove Rcmovc the thick cnlst not stick· sticksurface. Scoop out all formed on the surface, ail the porridge not of of the pan and put in aa bowl. ing lng to ta the sides of bowL Add aa piece pîeœ of Mix weil spatula. Press well with a spatula. butter butter about the size of an egg. Mix Press 'dough' the the porridge between between 2 saucepan lids lids to to make make aa 'dough' (* inch) thick. Cut into t1 cm. (! inlO shapes shapes with wÎth a pastry-cutter paslry-cutler and brown them in clarifiod clarified butter. butter. served with shchi, borshch These buckwheat buckwheat crofitons croûtons are s.erved and other other soups. aod A(x CHAMPIGNONS cuAMpIGNoNs -- PreKasha with with mushrooms. Kasha mllsbrooms. KAcITE KACHE AUX pare the buckwheat porridge as indicated above, adding to it it putting it in the sliced mushrooms tossed in butter before putting oven. aven. pot, with handed fresh butter Serve in in the cooking pot, Serve the cooking with fresh butter handed separately. PARMESAN KAcITE DE DE SARRASlN AU PARMESAN Parmesan. KACHE SARRASIN AU Kasha with Parmesan. porridge as indicated ahove. above. When it is Make the buckwheat porridge of the soft baked, remove remove the crust ffrom rom the top and use part of porridge to dish, or or aa deep to line line aa buttered buttered boat-shaped dîsh, grated Parmesan porridge with grated gratin dish. Sprînkle Parmesan Sprinkle the the porridge gratin porridge of porridge and melted butter. Spread another layer of cheese and grated Parmesan butter. sprinkle with grated on top and sprinklewith Parmesan and melted butler. with Parmesan Parmesan the surface, surface, sprinkle with full, smooth the When it is full, Wben Serve with with me\ted melted in the oven. oven. Serve and melted butter and brown in (q.v.) stock. and estouffade (q.v.) butter and poI.oNArs - PÎck Pick over, over, blanch blanch and KAcITE POLONAIS Polish kasha. kasha. KACHE Polisb (5f pints, pints, Simmer it gently in 3 litres (5~ hull 250 g. (9 oz.) barley. Simmer size of an egg. butter uer about the sue G pints) milk with a piece of bu Remove from from the stove. Stir until the barley is fully cooked. Remove as for for (9 OZ., eggs beaten beateir as g. (9 Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, 6 eggs (6 tablespoons, cup) sour sour tablespoons, seant scant -t+ cup) dl. (6 an omelette, and and 1 dl. an cream. Bake in a mould. Bake charlotte mould, in a buttered charlotte Put this mixture in napkin and and serve serve the kasha in aa napkin hot oven. mould in oven. Wrap the mould hOI with double cream. in it. Serve wilh (18 oz., g. (18 500 g. KAcITE DE DE SEMOULE sEMouLE -- Pour 500 Semolina kasha. KACHE Semolina for an Beat 22 eggs as as for an on aa slab. slab. Beat semolina on 3 cups) Smolensk Smolensk semolina pour over the so that that the the Mix well sa the semolina. semolina. Mix and pour omelette and mixture to dry dry moistened. Leave the mixture semolina is thorougbly thoroughly moistened. semolina food mill mill or straioer. strainer. through aa food in aa very moderate oven. Put through pints) milk pints, 4| pÎnts) 250 g. (9 oz., milk with with 250 Boil 22 litres litres (3| pÎnts, Boil Season. Simmer generous cup) butter, semolina. Season. butter. Pour in the semolina. brown and brown gently, stirring frequently. Put into aa serving serving dish and butter. in a hot oven. Serve with melted butter.

moistened with liqueur, liqueur, wine or syrup. fruit such such as as apricots, Take of mixed Take aa selection of mixed fresh fresh fruit pineapple, raspberries, melon melon and pineapple, peaches, peaches, strawberries, raspberries, watermelon. skin the fruit. waterrnelon. Where necessary, skin fruit. Cut it it all aIl up into small, thick slices slices and place in a bowl pressed into pressed down inco aa bucket of crushed ice. j litre (seant (scant pint, pint, Champagne, 1 Bring to the the boil I1 bottle boUle Champagne, 2f cups) red Bordeaux wine, I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) 2i tablespoons, seant! ground pinch of grouod sugar and and aa pinch Madeira, 2 or or 3 tablespoons sugar Madeira, pour it on iœ ice and and pour it over over the cinnamon. cinnamon. Chili Chill Ihis this mixture on fruit. Chili serve. Chill again again and and serve. Kaltschale witr strawberry prr6e. ret,rscHAle A rA, Kaltscbale l'Vith punrp DE FRArsEsPURÉE FRAISES - Embed a bowl in crushed ice. Fill it with fruit as as indicated above. Make aa pur6e of of strawberries as fruit îndicated above. lb., 7 cups) very sieve I kg. (2i lb., follows: Rub through lhrough aa fine sieve (8 OZ., g. (8 ripe and 225 225 g. oz., 2 cups) cups) redcurrants. ripe strawberries and (lf pints, generous quart) light Dilute this puree purée with witb I1 litre (li sugar syrup and! and f bottle Champagne previously boule '-'"'"'''''<>l~''''' nrp"-,,rll,cl\J brought to the boil and crulled. chilled. Pour over the fruit and serve chilled.

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KANGAROO. KANGOUROU r,c,NcouRou flesh of of Ihis this Australian The flesh KANGAROO. - The mammal is soup îs is aa delicacy delicacy in Kangaroo tail in is edible. edible. Kangaroo mammal tai! soup Germany. It is also sold commercially. commercially. Gerrnany.

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KAcUE -- Russian dish of cooked KASHA (Russian cookery). KACHE buckwheat. There are several ways of preparing it. (l lb.) buckwheat, I teaspoon salt,25 g. Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g. (lIb.) (l oz., o2.,22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. (1 to pick out any black grains. -- these 1. l. Sort the buckwheat ta people tind find un~ unwhich people husk which still covered with the hard husk are are stijl covered wilh pan without grease glease or liquid, until until sightly. Cook in aa frying pan grains acquire aa Iight colour. Put Înto into an an ovenlight golden colom. the grains just proof dish. dish, season with salt, add add the butter, and pour in just Bake in aa slow slow oven oven for 2j to to cover. Sake enough enough boiling water to caver. grains should should fall the grains It will have have aa thin crust but but the hours. It 3 hours. apart easily. easily put the in aa the buckwheat buckwheat in 2. Using same proportions, put Using the the same cover with cold cold saucepan, add add salt and melted butter, cover double saucepao, for J3 hours. rryater, stir, and cook OD on aa low heat for water, pour and pour with boiling water and scald wilh 3. Wash the buckwheat, scald cover with salt salt and and butter, butter, cover liquid. Put in aa seucepan witb off off the the liquid, Put in boil, stir, stir, and and transfer with boiling water, bring again to the boil, hours. for 33 hours. into aa double double saucepan. saucepan. Cook for iota (l lb.) g. (1 KAcITE -- Soak 500 g. lb.) DE KACHE Soak 500 Kasha croûtons. cro0tons. CROÛTONS cRo0roNs DE until itit forrns forms aa thick thick warm water water un\il crushed crushed buckwheat buckwheat in in warrn put itit in in aa large earthenware earthenware porridge. Season with salt salt and and put porridge. Season wirb pot.

I

2t

See CHEESE. CHEESE. KAUNAS -- See

(furki$ cookery) -- Name Turkey for for Name used used in in Turkey KEBAB (Turkish KEBAB is skewered skewered meat. feature is dishes whose whose principal feature various dishes s23 523

KEFIR KÉFIR (i pint, scant and 4 dl. seant 2 cups) Continue simmering simmering dl. (! cups) vinegar. Continue for for 15 15 to 20 minutes or until untiJ the sauce is is thickened to the

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metal or wood. wood, The The meat - mutton, The skewers are are of metal lamb or buffalo buffalo -- is cut into squares, seasoned with pepper, pepper, salt, thyme thyme and and powdered powdered bay bay leaves. leaves, Square pieces pieces of salt, skewer between mutton fat on the skewer fat are placed on between the pieces pieces of meaL In ln Turkey, mutton fat fat takes the place of bacon. The meat. served plain, skewered skewered meat is grilled grilled over hot embers, and is served plain, with lemon or with various various garnishes. garnishes. cALETTE Kebab galette. galette. KEBAB EN GALETTE - Cut into thick squares aa boned boned shoulder of lamb. lamb, Steep the the pieces in in milk, milk, and place them them on skewers with squares squares of of green pepper, pepper, tomato, tomato, onion and and bay bay leaves leaves between. between, Sprinkle with with powdered onion embers. thyme. Grill over hot embers. on a Take Take the the pieces pieces off off the the skewers. skewers, Arrange Arrange them them on (q.v.) (thin cake) made of galette ga/elle (q,v,) of wheaten wheaten flour. fiouL Cover with finely chopped chopped onions onions previously previously browned in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten another wheaten wheaten galette, gale/le, with brown stock and cover with another which should be be piping hot. Shish-kebab, which which is is the the Turkish Turkish name name for for skewered skewered Shish-kebab, mutton mut ton cooked in this this way, is also served served with pilaf pilaf of of rice or with chick chiek peas peas and raw finely finely sliced onions. onions, spit some on an Tchevir me me kebab - Place on an upright spit sorne thin slices of of mutton, mutton. alternating alternating with pieces of mutton fat. faL This spit turns tu rus itself itself in front of of an upright grill. grilL As the meat meat is cooked the pieces pieces are slit sIit lengthwise, taken off the spit spi! one after after another, another, and served with yogurt, pilaf pilaf off ofrice, of riee, etc. etc,

desired point. Seal in hot sterilised sterilised jars or bottles. bottles, desired KETMIE KETMIE-

and known as Plant, the fruit of which is edible and (See OKRA.) okra, gumbo or ladies'fingers. ladies' fingers. (Sec OKRA,) okra, KHLODNIK (Polish (polish and and KIILODNIK

--

It is made as follows: Wash and and blanch4large blanch 4 large handfuls hand fuIs of of tender tender beetroot beetroot leaves. leaves, Wash Chop finely. finely, Add Add to to these these aa handful handful of of finely finely chopped, Chop and drained drained chervil, tarragon, tarragon, chive, fennel and blanched and shallot. embedded in chopped ice, and herbs in a a dish embedded Put these herbs (scant pint, moisten moisten them them with t litre litre (seant pint, Zf, 2i- cups) cucumber brine, Add Add the the same sa me amount of kvass (q.v.), (q,v,), a drink very brine. popular in serving, season io Russia. Russia. Just before serving, season the soup with following garnishes: garnishes: salt and a pinch of fine sugar. Add the following erayfish tails, 500 500 g. (l (1 lb.) diced, diced, braised sturgeon, sturgeon, 4 or 55 48 crayfish tablespoons diced, diced, fresh fresh cucumber. Add Add 3 dl. dl. (+ (} pint, pint, licups) sieved sour cream and I1 or 2 pieces of ice. ice, Serve with quarterod quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs sprinkled sprinkled with with finely chopped chervil chervil and fennel. fenneL

f

l|

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KID. KID,

cHsvREAU, CHEVREAU, cABRr CABRI - Young goat, goat, slaughtered slaughtered before The meat beingweaned. being weaned, The meat of of the kid is notvery not very substantial substantial but it is not unwholesome, as some sorne people people believe. believe. In 10 French French butchery butchery sucking kids thirty thirly to forty fort y days old are called titards, têtards, the other, three or four months months old, are called ca lied broutards. broutards, All Ail the methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for very young lamb are applicable applicable to kid kid (see (see LAMB). LAMB), As As the the meat is is rather rather tasteless it has to be well weil seasoned. seasoned, The roast roast kid kid of Israel perfumes perfumes the the pages pages of the the Bible Bible with its appetising aroma. It Il is the roast of of patriarchs patriarchs and kings. To this day, the bedouin bedouin in his tent solemnly 'stews' 'stews' his kid on festive occasions; and in Cambodia Cambodia and Burrra, Durma, the kid is the traditional dish for engagement engagement celebrations. celebrations, In ln the the Middle Ages, it it held he Id its own among quarters of venison and heads ofboar, of boar, dressd dressed herons herons and white white swans. swans, Even Even at at the time of the the kings kiogs of Navarre, the kid kid of the Pyr6n6es Pyrénées was considered the chief attraction of the Easter Easter feasts. And the gallant gallant B6arnais Béarnais who was to become become Henry IV IV had occasion occasion more more than th an once once to to wash down down the the Easter Easter kid with a fine fine Jurangon Jurançon wine.

Fermented milk of Caucasian origin. origin. Strictly it it should be made of camels' milk but, in practice, it is made made from from cows' cows' milko milk, skimmed skimrned or or not, not, according according to to taste. tas te. Fermentation Fermentation is induced by means of of kifir kéfir bacteria. bacteria. When the bacteria bacteria have been added added to the milk it is put put in bottles bottles with patent patent stoppers stoppers and kept for a period in a hot cupboard. cupboard. After a day, mild kifir kéfir is obtained. obtained, This This is slightly laxative. After After two two days, days, mediun medium kifir kéftr is is obtained, obtained, which wbich is is not laxative. Strong Strongkifir kéfir is obtained obtained after after three three days of of fermentafermentation. It Il is is slightly constipating and and contains contains 2'5 2·5 per cent alcohol. alcohoL Kifir Kéfir has a a rather sour taste. tas te, It lt is frothy and contains a greater alcohol according greater or or lesser lesser proportion proportion of alcohol according to to the period period of of fermentation. fermentation, The casein casein shows signs sigos of peptipeptinisation in the form of thin flakes. flakes, Kifir Kéfir is easily easily digestible and is often recommended for invalids. invalids.

KEFIR KÉFIR

Rllssian cookery). cookery). KoLoDNIK KOLODNlK Russian

Iced soup, popular in Poland, its country country or origin, and soup, very popular Russia, in Russia.

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KEFTESKEBABS KEITES-KE8ABS (furkish (Turkish cookery) -- Made Made from from small small

raw meat ofraw meat (mutton, (mutton, veal or or buffalo), buffalo), skewered, skewered, grilled slices of slices and served with pilaf pilaf of of rice and the the juices juices of of roast meat. meaL

KIDNEYS. KIDNEYS, RocNoNs ROGNONS

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- Pigs' Pigs' and and sheep's kidneys kidneys are are the shape of a haricot (shell) bean; bean; calves' and ox kidneys are

KETCHUP KETCHIJP or CATSUP CATSUP - Ketchup is a condiment condiment rather rather than a a sauce in the the proper proper sense of the word. It Il is manumanu-

multi-Iobed. multi-lobed.

factured commercially North commereially and much much used used in England and North America. America, It Il is also made made in home home kitchens. kitchens, Mushroom Mushroom ketchup or or catsrp. catsup. KETcHIIn KETCHUP Ar.rx AUX cHAMprcCHAMPIGjar layers NoNs NONS -- Put in a salting saltingjar layers of of fresh sliced mushrooms mushroomsabout about t1 cm. cm, (* (t inch) deepdeep - and sprinkle sprinkle each each layer layer with table salt, salt, pepper pepper and allspice. allspice, Leave Leave the the mushrooms mushrooms in the salt for 5 or 6 days in a cool cool place. place, Press to extract all ail the the juice. juice. Boil this juice. juice, Season Season with with pepper, pepper, thyme, thyme, bay, bay, ginger, ginger, marjoram marjoram and and a a little tomato tomato paste. paste, Leave Leave to cool. cooL Filter Filter and bottle. bottle, Tonato Tomato ketchup. KErcHr.Jp KETCHUP Ar.lx AUX roMArEs TOMATES'up 3i 31 kg. kg. - Cut up (8 lb.) lb,) unpeeled unpeeled tomatoes, 6 medium medium onions, onions, 2 sweet sweel red red peppers and 2 garlic peppers and garlic cloves. cloves, Cover with water water and and boil boil gently until unti] the vegetables vegetables are 3oft. soft. Strain through a sieve. sieve. Tie Tie in a bag bag Il red pepper,2 pepper, 2 bay bay leaves, leaves, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped celery, I] tablespoon L1.blespoon mustard mustard seeds, I1 teaspoon teaspoon peppercorns peppercorns and I1 stick cinnamon, cinnamon, and add this, tbis, with I1 tablespoon salt, salt, juice. Boil to thejuice. Boil down down by by half, half, stirring stirring frequently. frequently. Add 100 100 g. g, to the (4 oz., *t cup) brown brown sugar, 100 100 g. (a (4 oz., oz.,! cup) white sugar sugar cup) white

sought-after Calves' and lambs' kidneys are delicate and sought-after foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Pigs' Pigs' kidneys, a little richer richer and with a sweetish sweetish weil thought of. Ox and sheep's kidneys kidneys are tas te, are less well taste, tough lough and often taste taste of of urine. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE coe COQ - These are used mainly Cocks' kidneys. as as an an ingredient ingredient in garnishes, but they may also be used, used, various ways, ways, as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre ot or small entrdes, entrées, cooked in various in in the same sa me way as cocks'combs cocks' combs (q.v.). (q,v.). To prepare a garnish, wash -..rash firm, white white cocks'kidneys cocks' kidneys in several waters. waters. Put them into a small saucepan saucepan with water, a pinch pinch of of salt, salt, a little little butter butter and and a few drops of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Star! cooking over a a good good heat. hea!. As soon as as the the liquid Start begins to boil boil turn the heat heat very low and cook, cook, covered, for begins l0 10 to 12 minutes, minutes, taking ta king care to avoid boiling. boiling. Use Use according according to ta the the recipe recipe chosen. chosen. Kidneys Kidneys saut6ed sautéed with with Madeira. Madeira. RocNoNs ROGNONS slur6s SAUTÉS e,u AU rrl.q,oinr kidneys sliced sliced and and sautEod sautéed in MADÈRE - Calves' or lambs' kidneys butter. Madeira Madeira is is poured poured into ioto the cooking pan pan and and this this butter. sauce is diluted with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE.) SAUCE,) sauce

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I

s24 524

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

( Scarnati) Preparing kidneys kidneyson skewer(Scarnali) onaaskewer Preparing

KILKIS or or NORWEGIAN NORWEGIAN ANCHOVIES ANCHOVIES -- Tiny Tiny fish fish found found KILKIS mainly in in northern northern European waters. preserved like waters. It It isis preserved like the the mainly anchovy and and is is very very weil well liked liked in in Russia. Russia. ItIt isis served served as as an an anchovy (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, hors-d'euvre (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre). hors-d'euvre). hors-d'œuvre

generally use The Jews The Jews did did not not generally use earthenware earthenware vessels vesselsfor for purposes; most cooking purposes; potsand cooking panswere most of of their their pots and pans were made made of of metal. To To extract meta!. extract the pots in the meat meat from from the the big big pots in which whichfood food destined to destined to be prepared, they be offered offered to to God God was was prepared, they used usedaabig big two-pronged fork, two-pronged fork, the the forerunner forerunner of of our our table table fork, fork, which which did not not make did make its its appearance appearance until until the the seventeenth seventeenth century. century. The Greeks, The Greeks, for preparations, used for their their culinary culinary preparations, greatly used greatly improved ver vessels. improved bronze, bronze, iron iron or or sil silver vessels. They They also also had hadsorne some in in earthenware. earthenware. Almost Almost ail all these these vessels vessels were were conical conical inin shape shape and and therefore therefore not not very very deep. provided with deep. They They were were provided with lids, lids, and and either either handles handles or or detachable detachable r-ings. rings. Among principal kitchen Among the the principal kitchar utensils utensils used used by by the the Greeks Greeks was was the the chytra, chytra, aa kind pan used kind of of earthenware earthenware pan used for for cooking cooking meats meats and and stews. stews. It It was was apparently apparently in in these these utensils utensils that that the the famous famous Spartan prepared. Or Spartan broths broths were were prepared. perhaps this Or perhaps this historical historical dish dish was was made made in in the the kakkabi, kakkabi, aa fairly fairly large large threethreelegged pot. The legged pot. The Greeks Greeks also pot, which also had had another another pot, which can can be be considered prototype of considered as as the the prototype of the the earthenware earthenware casserole casserole which which we we use use nowadays nowadays for pot-au-feu. This, for the the pot-au-feu. This, filled filled with with cooked (probably cooked cooked fruit fruit (probably cooked in in wine wine and and sweetened sweetened with with honey) honey) was was carried god, Bacchus, carried to to the the altar altar of of the the god, Bacchus, on on the the third third day day of of the the feast feast of of Anthesteria, the the famous famous festival festival in in honour of of Dionysus. The The Greeks Greeks also also had had bronze bronze casseroles casseroles which which resembled resembled those now in in use. use. For For cooking cooking meat meat and pieces they and fish fish cut cut in in pieces they had aa pan similar similar to the the type type which in France today in France today isis called called coupe coupe lyonnaise, lyonnaise, and and which which the the Greeks Greeks called called teganon. teganon. In In order to place al! all these these metal metal or or earthenware earthenware receptac1es receptacles on on the fire, fire, the the Greeks Greeks used used aa triangular support, support, the the tripod, tripod, that is is still in use use in country kitchens. Kitchen Kitchen utensils utensils used used by by the Romans were the Romans were similar similar to to those those of the the Greeks. Greeks. It It isis also also aa known known fact fact that that Greek Greek cooks cooks brought the brought the art of cooking to to Rome. Rome. The The Romans, Romans, who who were were sensual, voluptuous voluptuous people, with aa great great love love of of luxury luxury in in ail all things, made made kitchen utensils utensils not not only only of of bronze bronze but but also also of of silver. Among the the treasures treasures of of Bosco-Reale, Bosco-Reale, which which are are kept kept in the the Louvre, various various kitchen kitchen utensils utensils of of this this type type can can be be seen. Kitchen utensils utensils used used by seen. Kitchen by the the Romans Romans inc1uded included the the c/ibanus, an earthenware utensil utensil with clibanus, an earthenware pierced in with holes holes pierced in it, it, used used for cooking various for various dishes, pastry, in dishes, mainly mainly pastry, in hot hot ashes; ashes; craticula, aa grill for meat and craticula, for cooking meat and fish fish on glowing on the the glowing and the the apala, embers; and apala, aa dish dish with with cavities cavities of varying sizes of varying sizes hollowed out, out, which which was was used used for hollowed for cooking cooking eggs. eggs. Gauls and and the the Gallo-Romans The Gauls Gallo-Romans had had earthenware earthenware and and metal kitchen utensils utensils somewhat somewhat similar metal similar to to those those of of the the Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of Greeks and the Romans. The Celts knew nothing of the the

(furkish and KIMALI BUREK BUREK (furkish and Russiao Russian cookery). cookery). KI KTMALT KIMALI MALI BEURREcK -- Stuffed Stuffed pancake rolled rollod into the the shape of aa cigar, shape of cigar, BEURRECK filled with with forcemeat forcemeat or or sorne some other (See other filling, filling, and and fried. fried. (See filled HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, Beurrecksà Beuruecks d la la turque.) turque.) HORS-D'ŒUVRE, KINGFISH. TASSARD TASsARD --Large in ail all oceans. oceans. There There KINGFISH. Large fish found in species. The The flesh flesh is firm and and white is firm white and and itit are many different species. as tunny fish. fish. is prepared prepared in the same way as

KIPPER -- These, These, strictly strictly called called kippered kippered herrings, herrings, are are KIPPER and smoked. smoked. herrings which are slit open and Kippers are very good good to eat. They are usually grilled grilled and Kippers and (see served with butter or or Maître Matte d'hôtel served with melted melted butter d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). They can butters). They can also also be BUTTER, Compound be boiled. (See (See HERRINGS.) HERRINGS.)

KIRSCH Spirit with with aa very very strong strong bouquet, KIRSCH -- Spirit bouquet, chiefly

manufactured and in Germany. The finest manufactured in easten France and finest kirsch comes cornes from Alsace. Alsace. Black Black Forest kirsch kirsch also also enjoys great reputation. a is distilled from from fermented ripe a great reputation. It is ripe wild cherries. cherries.

Kirsch is highly prized pize.d by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. It is used great used aa great deal for flavouring flavouring in confectionery confectionery and pâtisserie. and pdtisserie.

KISEL. KIssEL KISSEL - Russian dessert made from from ail kinds of all kinds berries. berries. It It is served served in in aa charlotte charlotte mould with with thick thick cream and can can be be eaten either hot or cold. KISSING CRUST.

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BArsuRE BAISURE -

Bakery term describing the

pale pale soft soft crust crust where where one loaf loaf has has touched another in baking. baking.

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT. EQUIPMENT. nlrrmrE BATTERIE DE cursrNE CUISINE- This term

covers covers all ail the the utensils utensils used used in the the kitchen kitchen for the preparation preparation and and cooking cooking of food. The utensils, of various various shapes, are made made of of copper copper or or other other metals metals such su ch as as nickel, nickel, aluminium or

bimetals, bimetals, silver-plated silver-plated copper, copper, iron, cast-iron, cast-iron, bronze, sheetsheetiron, iron, wrought-iron, wrought-iron, etc., etc., of of special fireproof fireproof earthenware or china, china, or or of of hardened hardened glass glass which which is is also fireproof. fireproof. We We know know very very little little about about the the first fust kitchen kitchen utensils. The Egyptians, the the Assyrians Assyrians and and the the Persians Persians principally principally used used Egyptians, earthenware and and bronze bronze vessels, vessels, big-bellied big-bellied in shape, shape, with earthenware and and without without handles. handles. They They also also used used the the spit and, for cookcooking cakes cakes and and biscuits, biscuits, they they had had baking baking dishes dishes rather rather like ing those we we use use nowadays. nowadays. those

525 525

KITCHEN KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT

Water cxcavations at Pompeii provided Water beaters heaters found found in iD the excavations provided

with pipes pipes to make make the the best best possible possible use use ofthe of the heat heat from the sa me as for the fueplace; fireplace; the principle principle is the same perfectioned our our most most perfectioned tubular tubular boilers boilers

refinements refinements of of the the sumptuous sumptuous cookery cookery of of Imperial Imperial Rome Rome and their their pots pots and and pans pans were were rudimentary. rudimentary. With the coming coming of the the Merovingian Merovingian era, era, kitchen kitchen utensils utensils began began again again to to improve. improve. Some Sorne specimens specimens of of these these have have survived, survived, and and we we can see in museurns museums the the magnificent magnificent bronze bronze vessels vessels in in which which the the food food was was prepared. prepared. From From reading reading Charlemagne's Charlemagne's Capitularies, Capitu/aries, it it seems seems evident evident that that in in succeeding succeeding centuries centuries French French kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were improved improved still still further. further. After After the the Crusades Crusades a great great number number of of richly richly worked worked metal metal utensils utensils -- ewers, ewers, salvers, salvers, cauldrons cauldrons -- were were brought brought to to Europe Europe and and served served as as models models for for the the artisans artisans of ofthe the West West in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofmagnificent magnificent utensils. utensils. In In French French museums museums and and private private collections collections can can be be seen, seen, for for example, example, cooking cooking pots pots in in engraved engraved bronze bronze or or artistically artistically beaten beaten copper; copper; wrought-iron wrought-iron pot-hangers, pot-hangers, which which are are veritveritable able works works of of art; art; kitchen kitchen forks, forks, which which in in those those days days were were called called roables; roab/es; turning turninggridirons gridirons;; big-bellied big-bellied pots pots and and kettles kettles;; the acoste-pot (old (old version version of of the the accote-pot,'tilt-pot'), accote-pot, 'tilt-pot'), and and the acoste-por other other kitchen kitchen implements implements which which are are all aIl excellent excellent examples examples of of ironmongery. ironmongery. To To show show what what aa collection collection of of kitchen kitchen utensils utensils in in the the sixteenth-century sixteenth-century manor manor house hou se was was like, like, we we reproduce reproduce an an extract extract from from an an inventory inventory made made in in 1530 1530 at at the the chiteau château of of La La Mothe-Chandenier: Mothe-Chandenier:

'One wooden press for pressing pressing capons; 'Two iron spoons; spoons; 'One 'One small skimmer; skimmer; 'One round bronze bronze pan pan with a long handle for cooking cooking fish; 'Two 'Two old dripping dripping pans; pans; 'One 'One small smal! metal metal mortar mortar and and pestle; pestle; 'Three iron iron frying pans pans with with long long handles; handles; 'Three 'A table table on on two two trestles; trestles; 'A 'One 'One old bench bench with with bar bar back; back; 'One 'One cupboard cupboard with with two two glass glass doors, which which can can be be locked with aa key; key; with 'Another old cupboard, for keeprng keeping plates and and dishes, 'Another with two two glass glass doors, doors, which which can can be be locked locked with with a key; key; with 'Six big big copper copper candlesticks; candlesticks; 'Six 'Six 'Six other other medium-sized medium-sized candlesticks candlesticks;; 'One deep deep copper copper basin basin for for washing washing hands; hands; 'One 'Two deep deep bronze bronze candlesticks, candlesticks, in in the the shape shape of of aa cup; 'Two 'In the the larder larder near near the the said said kitchen: kitchen : 'In 'Three long long shelves, shelves, but but there there was was no no meat meat there there except except for for 'Three one piglet, piglet, which which was was kept kept for for the the Master Master in in case case he he wanted wanted one while he he was was here. here. itit while 'The following following bottle-ware bottle-ware:: 'The 'Barrel of of Gascony Gascony wine; wine; 'Barrel 'Pitcher with with aa spout; spout; 'Pitcher 'Half-litre mugs; mugs; 'Half-litre 'One stone stone mustard mustard pot, pot, for for making making mustard, mustard, etc.; etc.; 'One 'One small small table table for for making making pastry.' pastry.' 'One

'In 'In the the kitchen kitchen of ofthe the aforesaid aforesaid ch0teau château of ofla la Mothe Mothe:: '18 '18 silver silver dishes dishes and and 18 18 escuelles escuelles (mediaeval (mediaeval version version of of icuelle écuelle -- bowl) bowl) bearing bearing the the coat coat of of arms arms which which the the late late Master Master and and the the late late Lady Lady brought brought with with fhem them from from Javarzay Javarzay when when they theycame camehere here to to the the chdteau château of ofla la Mothe. Mothe. 'The 'The following following utensils utensils were were found found in in the the said said kitchen: kitchen: 'Six 'Six large large dishes, dishes, three three small, small, and and ten ten bowls, bowls, all aIl utensils utensils engraved engravedwith withthe thelate lateMaster's Master'scoat coatof ofarms; arms; 'One 'Onepot-hanger; pot-hanger; 'Two 'Twobeaten-iron beaten-iron cookers; cookers; 'One 'Onebig bigiron iron spit; spit; 'Then 'Then two two more more smaller smaller spits; spits; 'One 'Oneiron iron fish fish slice, slice, one onegrid; grid ; 'Item, 'Item, one onebig bigcooking cooking pot; pot; 'Item, 'Item,one onebig bigcast-iron cast-ironpot potwith withperforations; perforations; 'Item, another another iron iron pot pot of ofone one seilie sei/ée (a (a measure measure of ofcapacapa'Item, city); city) ; 'Item, three seillies, 'Item, two twobig bigcauldrons cauldronsof ofthree seillées, without without rims; rims; 'Item, 'Item, another anothercauldron, cauldron,ofoftwo twoseillies; sei/fées; 'Item, 'Item, another, another,ofofone oneseillie; sei/fée; 'Item, 'Item, two two small smallcauldrons cauldronsofofhalf halfseillies; seillées; 'Item, two two big big round round bronze bronze pans pans of ofabout about fotn four seillies sei/fées 'Item, each; each; 'Item,plus plusanother anotherround roundpan panofoftwo twoseillies sei/fées(with (withaapiece piece ' Item, broken brokenoff: off;

Our ancestors ancestors used used many many other other utensils utensils in in addition addition to to Our those mentioned mentioned in in the the inventory inventory quoted quoted above. above. those They had, had, among among others, others, the the horsehair horsehair sieve sieve or or tammy, tammy, They which, itit isis said, said, was was invented invented by by the the Gauls. Gauls. The The following following which, utensils were were also also in in use: use: the the couloir, couloir, aa large large strainer strainer with with aa utensils handle which which was was used used for for draining draining foods; foods; the the rastels raste/s or or handle raste/rier, iron iron hooks hooks on on which which food food was was hung; hung; pots pots and and rastelrier, kettles of ofall al! sizes; sizes; tartiires tartièresOaking (bakingtins); tins); skillets, skillets, saucepans, saucepans, kettles frying pans, pans, etc.; etc.; the thefiral féra/ -- aa large large metal metal vessel vessel used used as as aa frying watercontainer; container; the theDecdasne, becdasne, aa pot pot with with aa handle handle and and aa long long water curved spout; spout; funnels, funnels, mostly mostly in in copper; copper; the the esmieure, esmieure, aa curved grater used used for for grating grating nutmeg nutmeg and and cheese. cheese. Nutmeg Nutmeg was was grater greatly valued valued in in those those days, days, as as we we know. know. 'Do 'Do you you like like greatly nutmeg? They They put put itit in in everything,' everything,' Boileau Boileau was was to to write write aa nuheg? few hundred hundred years years later. later. few In the the kitchens kitchens of of those those times times they they also also used used gridirons, gridirons, In mortars; spice-grinders; spice-grinders; various various ladles ladies which which were were called called mortars; pot/ouches and and poches; poches; minchoirs, minchoirs, long-bladed long-bladed knives knives used used potlouches for slicing slicing pork pork fat fat into into rashers; rashers; mincers mincers and and various various other other for utensilswhich whichare arestill stillininuse useininthe thepresent presentday. day. utensils Tin plating plating of ofpots pots and and pans pans was was already already known known at at that that Tin time. In In the the Homeric Homeric era era tin, tin, along along with with silver, silver, gold gold and and time.

526 s26

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN The kitchen kitchen in in many many modern modern homes homes isis the the centre of family family centre of The living, especially especially in in the the ever increasing number ever increasing number of of areas areas where where living, domestic service service does not exist. does not exist. This This means means that that the the kitchen domestic kitchen must be be an an attractive attractive room room to to be be in, in, as as weil well as as an an efficient must efficient place in produce meals. in which which to to produce meals. Such Such aa room room in in many many cases place cases irtcludes aa dining dining area, area, either either aa table table or or counter counter space. space. The The includes basic requirements, requirements, the the stove stove and and the the refrigerator, refrigerator, are basic are dedefor appearance signed for appearance as as weil well as as usefulness, usefulness, but but besides besides these signed these appliances there there are are many many others others designed designed for for home home use use appliances which make preparation of make the the preparation of food food not not only only easy easy but but which enjoyable. Included Included in in an an ever ever expanding expanding list list of of such such enjoyable. appliances are are electric electric beaters, beaters, electric electric blenders for chopping, blenders for chopping, appliances pulverising and pur6eing, pressure pressure cookers, and puréeing, cookers, machines machines for for pulverising slicing and and shredding shredding vegetables, vegetables, rôtisseries, r6tisseries, thermostatithermostatislicing pans, waste cally controlled controlled frying frying pans, waste disposai disposal units, units, automatic automatic cally dish washers washers and and home home freezers. freezers. But But ail all this this equipment equipment does dish does not assure good food. assure good food. On the contrary, gourmets agree On the contrary, gourmets agree that that not much in in texture texture and and flavour flavour can can be sacrificed to be sacrificed to the the speed speed and and much efficiency of of many many of of the modern gadgets. One modern gadgets. One must must retain retain aa efficiency proportion. sense of of proportion. sense Kitchens in in small small restaurants restaurants and and inns inns are are usually usually an Kitchens elaboration of of aa domestic domestic kitchen, kitchen, but but the the modern kitchen kitchen elaboration designed for for large large hotels, hotels, restaurants restaurants and institutions may and institutions designed be compared compared to to aa factory. factory. Here the the utensils are tools of utensils are of the be trade and and are are built on on aa large large scale scale and and of sturdy sturdy materials. The kitchen kitchen isis divided divided into into many many departments, each each of of The head chef and assistants. There may be departwhich has its head ments for baked goods, goods, soups, roasts, fish, fish, salads salads and and horsments d'euvre, vegetables, vegetables, desserts, desserts, beverages. In In sorne some kit kitchens d'œuvre, chens subdivided; in others they are these departments are further subdivided; All these departments are under the direction direction of a combined. Ali or head head chef chef who who is responsible for is responsible for the the whole manager or operation. On his staff there are usually one one or more dietioperation. plan the menus. tians to Trained kitchen menus. Trained kitchen engineers design tians to plan types and and specifications, but but each must kitchens of various types meet public more rigid public health requirements, which are today more and closely controlled than ever before. Specifications for a modern kitchen ieed 2000 kitchen designed designed in the U.S.A. U.S.A. to feed 2000 people people a day, day, but but capable capable of of feeding feeding 5000, 5000, include include the the following equipment: equipment:

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;

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French kitchen and table utensils of table utensils of the Middle Ages and the the Renaissance: French kitchen and the Middle Ages and Renaissance: ( l6th century); 2. Lidded cup (l4th century): 3. Copper pot with two l. Trencher Trencher (16th 1. century); 2. Lidded cup (14th century); 3. Copper pot with two (9th jug handles (l5th century); 4. (l6th century); century): 5. 5. Knife handles (9th century); 4. Metal Metal jug (15th century); Knife (16th century); 6. Mannite Marmite with (l4th century); with two two handles handles (14th (l5th century); century); 7. 7. Copper Copper kettle century); 6. kettle (I5th pitcher sculpted in 8. Copper with ewer (9th its oriental-style stand century)i 9. 8. Copper ewer with its oriental-style stand (9th cent ury) ; 9. Pitcher sculpted in the decoration (t5th century): Saint-Benoit church church in Paris (l5th 10. TwoTwothe decoration of of the the Saint-Benoit in Paris œntury); 10. branched l6th century); candlestick ((l6th cenrury); II. I l. Cauldron Cauldron ((15th l5th century). century). brancbed candlestick

bronze, to be bronze, was was considered considered to be one one of of the the precious precious metals. metals. History History tells tells us us that that the the Aedui, Aedui, the the people people who who inhabited inhabited ancient ancient Gaul, Gaul, invented invented metal metal plating plating and and it it is is thanks thanks to to this this discovery discovery that that vessels vessels and and kitchen kitchen utensils utensils were were made made in in such such a way that a way that tin, tin, applied applied on on copper, copper, could could not not be be distinguished distinguished from from silver. sil ver. There There are are many many people people who who protest protest against against the the disappeardisappearance ance of of the the archaic archaic spits spits or or such such other other utensils utensils formerly formerly used used in the kitchen. They are even even capable capable of of lamenting lamenting the the in the kitchen. They are passing of those those inconvenient inconvenient charioal charcoal ranges ranges - the the sloves stoves passing of about about which which Car€me Carême complained complained when when he he said: said: 'The 'The coal is is killing These were were the the old-fashioned old-fashioned paillasses, paillasses, killing us!' us!' These laboriously kept up, where, laboriously kept up, where, in in live live charcoal charcoal embers, embers, stews stews and and braised braised dishes dishes simmered simmered and and sometimes sometimes caught caught fire. fire. In In 1849, 1849, Michel Michel Chevalier Chevalier wrote wrote in in the the Magasin Magasin PitPittoresque:'The toresque: 'The improvement improvement of of household household utensils utensils has has more more to to do do with with real real freedom freedom than than is is generally generally realised, realised, for for itit contributes contributes a a great great deal deal to to freedom freedom from from drudgery drudgery in in the the home, home, which which matters matters no no less less to to human human happiness happiness than than liberty liberty in in aa public public place. place. One One utensil utensil may may free free the the servants servants from from one one type type of of arduous arduous or or unhealthy unhealthy task, task, another another allows allows one one person to person to do do the the work work of of three three and, and, consequently, consequently, frees frees two two from from domestic domestic drudgery.' drudgery_' Modern Modem kitchen kitchen equipment eqoipment -- Modern Modern kitchen kitchen equipment, equipment, either either in in domestic domestic or or institutional institutional kitchens, kitchens, includes includes such such utensils as well-sharpened saucepans, utensils as well-sharpened knives, knives, wire wire whisks, whisks, saucepans, frying frying pans, pans, casseroles, casseroles, braising braising pans, pans, kettles kettles and and strainers, strainers, and and many many inventions inventions which which in in recent recent years years have have contributed contributed much much to to make make culinary culinary operations operations easier easier and and have have taken taken the the drudgery drudgery out out of of cooking. cooking.

3 3 electric ranges ranges 33 compartment compartment steamers steamers 2large 2 large tilting tilting kettles used for soups and vegetables vegetables 22 undercounter undercounter refrigerators refrigerators I1 bakers'revolving bakers' revolving tray oven oyen 22 cooks'tables cooks' tables with with sinks sinks

I1 60-quart 60-quart (7O-litre) (70-litre) electric mixer mixer

2 salad salad preparation preparation tables tables Salad refrigerator Salad refrigerator

Fish Fish refrigerator refrigerator 80-quart 80-quart (9OJitre) (90-litre) electric electric mixer mixer Mobile Mobile flour flour bin bin Room Room refrigerators refrigerators for for meat meat Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for vegetables vegetables and dairy products products Room Room refrigerator refrigerator for for frozen frozen foods foods Baker's Baker's refrigerator refrigerator 'Pass-through' 'Pass-through' refrigerator refrigerator which which can can be be filled from from the the kitchen and opened opened on on the the serving serving side side kitchen side side and 55 lO-quart pans used used for for soups soups and and sauces sauces 1O-quart (I2-litre) (l2-litre) tilting tilting pans Hot Hot food food table table Refrigerated Refrigerated cold co Id table table Milk Milk dispenser dispenser Cream Cream dispenser dispenser Tea Tea urn urn Coffee Coffee urn urn Electric Electric juice juice dispenser dispenser Electric Electric ice ice maker maker 527 527

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

I

i, i'{'d

Classic French pots and pans: 1. Casserole russe; 2. Sauté pan (plat à sauter); 3. Frying pan (sauteuse); 4. Smalt casserole russe; 5. Round cocotte; 6. Oval coppercocotte for cooking chicken en COCOlle; 7. Small copper cocotte for game; 8. Stew 4.Smallcasserolerusse;5.Roundcocotte;6.Ovalcoppercocotteforcookingchickenencocotte;T.Smallcoppercocotteforgame;8.Stew pan (marrnite (marmite d à ragoot);9. ragoût); 9. Large Large stock pot pot (grande marmite); marmite); 10. 10. Doublesaucepan(marmite)forsteamingpotatoes;ll.Braisingpan(braisiire)(Larozsse) Double saucepan (marmite) for steaming potatoes; Il. Braisiog pan (braisière) (Larousse)

528 528

KITCHEN EQUIPMENT EQUIPMENT KITCHEN

Classic 3. Braising (braisidre)for filletof,beef; pan(braisière) forfillet of beef; Braising pan (casseroles) for forbain-marie; (poissonidre); 2.2.Saucepans pans: 1.l Copper bain-marie;3. Saucepans (casseroles) fish kettle pots and Classic French kettle (poissonière); Copper fish French pots and pans: 4.4. Round pan (plaque d'office); 6. Pan for cooking harn (turbotidre); (jambonniire) ;7.7.Turbot ham(jarnbonnière); rurbot kettle kettle(turbotière); (bassine or pan (bassine Round stew .11g,:iilln|;1"1.,r.. stew pan or rondin rondin àdragoût); ragofit)' 5.t Copper 8. Fish pan (plaque à poisson) (Larousse).

;fi?;.:;i6*:;:-g

529 529

KITCHEN TEAM TEAM KITCHEN

Addd toto these these utensils utensils there there are are many many machines machines for for Added serving food, food, for for disposing disposingof of rubbish rubbish and andfor for washing washing dishes. dishes. serving Many hotels hotels catering catering to to aa luxury luxury clientele clientele have have charcoal charcoal Many broilers and and rôtisserie r6tisserie spits spits rotating rotating before before open opeir fires. fires. broilers

famous kitchens kitchens of of the the old old Maire Maire restaurant, restaurant, then then the the famous Grand-Hotel at at Monte MonteCarlo Carlo and and the theSavoy Savoy in in London. London. He He Grand-Hotel finished his his active active career career at at the the Carlton Carlton Hotel Hotel inin London. London. finished Phil6as Gilbert Gilbert was was the the author author of of the the best best culinary culinary works works of of Philéas our time. time. Other Other illustrious illustrious names names inc1ude include Tony Tony Girod, Girod, our Ninlias, Argentier, Argentier, Prosper Prosper Drenault, Drenault, Prosper Prosper Salles Salles and and Ninlias, Deland. Deland. impossible for give the for us us to to give the names names of gros of ail all the the gros ItIt isis impossible past who bowtets of of the the past who have have improved improved the the status status of of the the bonnets culinary art. art. We We can only mention can only mention chefs great private chefs of private of the the great culinary houses, such as Urbain Urbain Dubois, Dubois, Émile Emite Bernard, Bernard, Armand Armand hou ses, su ch as Gouff6, Joseph Joseph Favre Favre and and Gastilleur, Gastilleur, sorne some of of whom whom had had Gouffé, charge of of the the imperial imperial and royal kitchens. and royal kitchens. charge KNEADING OF OF DOUGH. DOUGH. FRAISAGE FRATSAcE -- This This operation operation conconKNEADING sists of of breaking breaking up up the the dough dough once once itit has has become become elastic, elastic, by sists by working itit with palm of with the the palm of the the hand. hand. The The object object of of handling handling working the dough dough in in this this way way is to obtain perfect mixture is to obtain aa perfeet mixture of of ail all the the the ingredients. ingredients.

KITCHEN TEAM. TEAM. BRIGADE BRTcADE DE DE CUISINE In aa hotel cursrNE -- In hotel or or KITCHEN restaurant this this term term applies applies to to the the staff staffof kitchen. restaurant of aa kitchen. principle, aa kitchen In principle, kitchen team team of of aa relatively relatively important important In establishment, aa team team which which takes takes its its orders orders from from aa chef, chef, establishment, gros bonnet referrod to to as as the ('big-hat') in the gros bonnet ('big-hat') professional in professional referred jargon, consists of a chef sancler (sauce chef), who is conjargon, consists of a chef saucier (sauce chef), who is considered to to be be the the deputy deputy head head of of the the team; team; an an entremettier, entrernettier, sidered who has has charge preparation of charge of ofthe ofsoups, vegetables and and who the preparation soups, vegetables sweet courses; courses; aa rôtisseur rdtisseur who, who, in in addition addition to to various various roasts, roasts, sweet prepares fried also prepares fried dishes grills; and, dishes and and grills; and, finally, gardefinally, aa gardealso (larder chef), manger (larder chefl, who who has has charge charge of of aU all the the supplies, raw supplies, raw manger prepares cold and cooked, cooked, and and prepares cold dishes dishes such galantines, such as as galantines, and pdtis, mousses, jellies, sees terrines, pâtés, mousses, etc. prepares the etc. He He also also prepares the jellies, sees terrines, to the the cutting cutting up up of poultry, game, of meat, meat, fish, fish, poultry, game, etc., etc., and and does does to all the the cold cold, hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre relevant relevant to to the the kitchen kitchen service. service. ail Kitchen assistants, assistants, called called commis, commis, are are attached attached to to the the chef chef of of Kitchen each section. section. each If the the establishment establishment is is an an important important and and busy busy one, one, sorne some If (each team of these these sections sections (each team service semice is is called callod aa section, section, or or of partie, in in France), France), are are doubled. doubled. Thus Thus the the sauce sauce section section might might partie, have aa second second service service under under aa special special chef chefthe fish fish chef. chef. have - the Entremets becomes becomes aa separate separate section, section, also with aa chef also with chef at its at its Entremets head, usually usually the the soup soup chef, potagiste or chef, called called potagiste potager. The or potager. The head, (the section rdtisserie (the section in in charge charge of roasts) may of roasts) may be be supplesupplerôtisserie mented by by aa cook cook who who would would have have charge grills and charge of of ail all grills and mented would, therefore, therefore, be grillardin. be called called the the grillardin. would, In an an establishment establishment of greater importance, of still still greater importance, the the roastroastIn ing section, in in addition addition to to the roast chef chef proper and the ing section, the roast proper and the grillardin, also have have aa friturier (fryer), (fryer), aa noun which grillardin, would would also noun which probably does not exist in any dictionary probably does not exist in any dictionary but but is is accepted accepted in in culinary and means exactly what says. culinary terminology terminology and means exactly what itit says. Equally, the garde-manger, addition to Equally, the garde-manger, in in addition to the the actual actual head head of of this this important important section, section, might might be be supplementod supplemented by by the the inclusion of other chefs, each with his own inclusion of other chefs, each with his own speciality. speciality. One One might meat, etc. might have have the the charge charge of of hors-d'auvre, hors-d'œuvre, another another of ofmeat, etc. chef an assistant assistant chef, chef, there there are are also also special special teams teams dealing dealing chef and and an with pdtissier and and several with pastry. pastry. These These would would include include aa chef chefpâtissier several assistants, and aa cchef hef gglacier. lacier. assistants, aa chef chefconfiseur confiseur and The art of The art of managing managing the the kitchen kitchen team team of of aa big big restaurant restaurant or or hotel hotel is is aa difficult difficult one. one. A A chef chef in in charge charge of of aa kirchen kitchen must must not not only only be be aa man man who who knows knows his hisjob job - his his art, art, we we should should say say -inside but he he must must also also have have the the qualities qualities of of an an ideal ideal inside out, out, but administrator. The past (if time administrator. The time is is long long past (if itit ever ever existod existed at at all) ail) when when kitchens kitchens in in big big establishments establishments were were run run without without some sorne system of accounting. accounting. Today, Today, more more than than ever, ever, the the kitchen kitchen of of system of aa restaurant restaurant or or of of aa hotel hotel must must be be well weil organised, organised, everything everything must be foreseetr and carried must be foreseen and carried out out in in such such aa way way that that the the dishes, dishes, whilst whilst being being excellent excellent in in quality, quality, cost cost only only what what they they should should cost cost and and no no more. more. In In aa modern modem establishment establishment the the kitchen kitchen is is aa department department which which must must never never show show aa loss loss -profit. always a always a profit. At At the the end end of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century century and and at at the the beginning beginning of of the the twentieth twentieth there there were were aa great great number number of of chefs chefs de de anisine cuisine (famous (famous gros gros bowtets), bonnets), who who had had charge charge of of kitchen kitchen teams: M. Prat, who for a long time teams: M. Prat, who for a long time had had charge charge of of the the kitchens kitchens at at the the Grand-Hotel Grand-Hotel in in Paris; Paris; Jean Jean Giroix, Giroix, who who dirocted directed the the kitchen kitchen at at the the Hotel Hotel de de Paris Paris in in Monte Monte Carlo; Carlo; L6opold Léopold Mourier, Mourier, who, who, after after having having directed direeted the the kitchen kitchen of of the the Maire Maire restaurant restaurant (now (now no no more) more) became became the the grand grand maitre maître of of various various famous famous restaurants, restaurants, such such as as the the Cafe Café de de Paris, Paris, Armenonville, Armenonville, the the Pr6-Catelan, Pré-Catelan, Fouquet, Fouquet, etc. etc. The Thegreat great Escoffier, Escoffier, who who died died in in 1935, 1935,was was first first the the chef chefof of the the Petit Petit Moulin-Rouge, Moulin-Rouge, then then took took charge charge of of the the no no less less

Selection Selection of of cooks' cooks' knives knives:: L1. Palette Palette knife knife (Couteau (Couteau hà tartiner):Z. tartiner); 2. Carving Carving knife knife (Couteau (Couteau dc de cuisine);3. cuisine); 3. Slicing Slicing knife; knife; 4. 4. Chopping Chopping knife knife (Couteau (Couteau ità abattre\: abattre); 5. 5. Filleting FilleLing knife knife for for fsh(Couteautronche fish (Couteau tranche lart):6.yegetable lard); 6. Vegeta ble knife knife (Couteaudffice) (Couteau d office) plnt. (C oute llefie Andrd. Larousse) (CoUlellerie André. Phot. Larousse)

KNIFts. KNIFE. courEAU COUTEAU -- A A cutting cutting instrument, instrument, with with aa handle handle and and

aa blade. blade.

Kitchcn Kitcheo tnives. knives. courgArx COUTEAUX DE DE cursrNE CUISINE - For For tle the various various culinary essential to to have have good good tools, tools, and and in in culinary operations operations itit isis essential particular particular very very good good knives. knives. Each Each has has its its proper proper use. use. In In order order of of size size they they are: are: vegetable vegetable knife knife for for peeling peeling vegetables; vegetables; knife knife with with aa larger larger blade blade for for cutting cutting fish fish fillets; fillets; slicing slicing knife knife with with aa fairly fairly large large blade blade for for slicing slicing raw raw or or cooked cooked meat meat perfectly; perfectly; straight-bladed straight-bladed chopper, chopper, with with which which itit isis possible possible to to break break up up bones bones of ofaa certain certain size, size, and and to to hash hash meat meat in in the the same same way way as as with with aa four-bladed four-bladed chopper; chopper; carving carving knife, knife, which which isis used used for of fat fat pork pork or or bacon bacon and and which which resembles resembles for iutting cutting bards bards of the the so-called so-called 'English' 'English' knife knife used used to to carve carve large largejoints joints of ofbeef beef and but which, which, instead instead of of having having aa rounded rounded point, point, isis and hams, harns, but sharply sharply pointed. pointed. There also the theknife knife for forboning boningmeat. meat. ItItisis used used mostly mostly in in Thereisisalso butchery butcherybut butcan canbe beusod used inin cooking. cooking. 530 530

KROMESKY KROMESKY Cisaille Cisaille dà volaille\; volaille); the the cutlet cutlet beater; beater; the the butcher's butcher's saw; saw; and and the thescraper scraperfor for the thebutcher's butcher's table. table. good Table of excellent excellent quality, quality, with with good Table knives knives should should be be of cutting cutting blades blades in in pure pure steel. steel. Many Many table table knives knives are are made made they today today inin stainless stainless steel. steel. Their Their principal principal advantage advantage isis that that they in silver made are do not stain. stain. For For serving serving fruit, fruit, knives knives are made in silver do not plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

plate. For fish, special knives are made of silver plate.

Utensils of various shapes, REST. ponrs-cotrEeuKNIIE KNIFE-REST. PORTE-COUTEAU - Utensils ofvarious shapes, prevent placed in in glass glass or or silver, silver, on on which which the the knife knife is is placed to to prevent

soiling soiling the the tablecloth. tablecloth.

of KI\UCKLE. KNUCKLE. souRls SOURIS - Small, Small, fleshy fleshy muscle muscle on on the the leg leg of mutton. mutton. ItIt is is much much appreciated appreciated by by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. This is not, properly speaking, a KOHLRABI. KOHLRABI. cHou-uw CHOU-RAVE -- This is not, properly speaking, a root, but aa swelling swelling of of the the stem stem above above ground ground in in the the form form of of aa root, but

plump, plump, pithy pithy ball. bail. Some Sorne varieties varieties have have quite quite a a delic1te delicate (q.v.) and for havour. flavour. All AIl the the recipes recipes given given for for turnips turnips (q.v.) and for

celeriac celeriac (q.v.) (q.v.) may may be be used used for for this this vegetable' vegetable. A LA PAYSANNE - Cut Kohlrabi KohJrabi ilà la la paysanne. paysanne. cuou-RAvs CHOU-RAVE À LA PAYSANNE Cut some chopped in in lard Brown slices. into the kohlrabi the kohlrabi into slices. Brown in lard in which wruch sorne chopped and of pork fresh breast some fresh softened. Add onion pork and onion has has been been softened. Add sorne breast of equal in equal and stock stock in wine and white wine with white salt. Moisten season season with with salt. Moisten with oven. proportions. Cook in proportions. Cook in the the oyen.

saignerl;2. Sorne slccial special knives: knives: l.1. Boning Booing knife knife (Couteau (Couteau it à saigner); 2. Fluted Fluted knife; knife; 3' 3. Some Potato peeler; peeler; 4. 4. Cannelling Cannelling knife; knife; 5' 5. Knife Knife for for scraping scraping lernon lernon zest zest;; 6. 6. can can opener opener Potato (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrt. André. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

Among the the cutting cutting tools tools which which it is necessary necessary to have have in in aa Among is aa weIl-ordered kitchen, kitchen, are the following: following: aa cleaver, cleaver, which which is well-ordered cut in in fairly large instrument with which a carcase can be cut half; half; a a chopper, chopper, to to crack the hardest bones; bones; a a chopping chopping knife, which which is made made with one, two or four blades; the the whole whole knife, series of of small knives used for chopping, chopping, peeling peeling and paring paring series into cutting potatoes potatoes, and for cutting vegetables, especially especially potatoes, potatoes into ribbons; knives for opening oysters; tin-openers. for knives with a fluting device or one for Little tools, such as knives little as should !ittle be mentioned, as zest, should be scraping lemon zest, for cutting cutting knives for special knives ravioli; special instruments cutting ravioli; for cutting instiuments for

in made in milk, originally originally made mares' milk, KOUMISS -- Fermented KOUMISS Fennented mares' ferment The fennent kifir. The to kéfir. similar ta rather similar Tartary, rather and Tartary, Turkestan and Turkestan (brewer's (8 oz.) g. (8 barm (brewer's oz.) bann 250 g. prepared by working 250 by working is prepared used is USed and a honey little a (4 with flour g. cup) oz.,l yeast) 125 and yeast) and 125 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) flour with a little honey and a (5|pints, add 33litres Next day day add overnight. Next glass ofmilk. Liave overnight. of milk. Leave glass litres (Si pints, grelt of a contains It leaven. pints) to this milk to this leaven. It contains a great deal 4 pints) milk 94 of 6t per cent alcohol. l'65 to to 3·23 3'23 per gas and from 1·65 and from acid gas cirbonic acid carbonic cent alcohol.

(poultry shears shears -jointing chicken chic[en (poultry for jointing grapefruit; scissors scissors for

CROMESQUI. See CROMESQUI. KROMESKY -- See KROMESKY

(IVrcolas) mould(Nicolas) Kugelhopf withmould Kugelhopfwith

531 531

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF

KUGELHOPF u KOUGLOFF (Nsation pastry). KoucELKUGELHOPF or KOUGLOFF (Alsation pastry). KOUGELHoF, KoucI,or It is said that eueen Marie Antoinette was HOP, KOUGLOF - -It is said that Queen Marie Antoinette was yery fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the very fond of this pastry, which contributed a great deal to the fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These fashion in her day for sweets made with risen dough. These were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the were no longer made with leaven, as they had been until the *jqqh of lheeighteenth sighteenth century, but with brewer's yeast, middle of the century, but with brewer's yeast, which had been in use for a very long time in Austrii and which had been in use for a very long time in Austria and Poland. Poland. Some authorities, however, believe that it was Car€me Sorne authorities, however, believe that it was Carême who popularised this pastry in paris, when he established who popularised this pastry in Paris, when he established hiTrc{ as a pastry-cook. saidthat thathe giventhe hewas wasgiven the himself as a pastry-cook. ItIt isissaid reclpe by M. Eugine, prince that time time mas master cheftoioPrince recipe by M. Eugène, atat that ter chef Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. Schwartzenberg, the Austrian ambassador. 500 g. (18 oz,.,4 cups) sieved flour, 200 g. ._Ingredienls. Ingredients. 500 g. (18 OZ., # cups) sieved flour, 200 g. (7 oz.,-scant cup) butter, (3* oz., ! cup) fine sugar,? 90 g.g. (3~ (7 OZ., scant cup) butter, 90 OZ., ~ cup) fine sugar, 4 g. (l oz.) yeast - or 15 g. G or.) in summer, 50 g. 2l 9-g9., 25 g. (1 oz.) yeast - or 15 g. (t oz.) in summer, 50 g. eggs, (2 oz., i cup) currants, l| teaspoons salt. (2 OZ., cup) currants, It teaspoons salt. Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche Make the dough according to the instructions for Brioche dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. dough (see DOUGH), but make it a little less firm. Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with Butter a large kugelhopf mould and line the sides with shredded almonds. Half-fill with dough. Leave the dough in shredded almonds. Half-fil! with dough. Leave the dough in a wann place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. a warm place, until it has risen above the sides of the mould. Bake in a hot oven N to 45 minutes. Bake in a hot oyen 40 to 45 minutes. KULICH (Russian cookery). rour,rcn - Cake of risen dough, KULICH (Russian cookery). KOULICH - Cake of risen dough, made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it f,as made in Russia for the ceremonial Easter dinner. After it has been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of been baked and cooled, it is decorated with a cluster of artificial roses. artificial roses. KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds KUMMEL - Russian liqueur extracted from caraway seeds (not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a mis(not, as wrongly supposed, from cumin seeds, a misapprehension that explains its name because cumin is apprehension that explains its na me because cumin is Kiimmel in German). Kümmel in German). Ole type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at One type of Russian kummel has a deposit of crystals at the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur the bottom of the bottle. This is sugar with which the liqueur is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystaltne is supersaturated under heat and which resumes its crystalline state four or or five five days days later. later. The The same same state upon upon cooling cooling four phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making. phenomenon also occasionally occurs in jam-making.

Kulich, Kulich, RussianEasler Easter Russian cake cake

t

Danzig liqueur liqueur isis aa well-known, well-known, potent potent type type of Danzig of kummel kummel particularly large with aa particularly large amount amount of of crystallisation. crystallisation. ItIt isis an with an essential ingredient ingredient of of Rothschild Rothschild soufflé. soufr6. essential Kummel or or Leidsche l*idsche kaas kaas isis also also the the name name of Kummel of aa Dutch Dutch (See CHEESE.) cheese. (See CHEESE.) cheese.

IiyMgUAT -- Very Very small small orange orange shaped shaped like KUMQUAT like an an elongated elongated olive. This Thisfruit, which isis nowadays nowadayssold sold in olive. fruit, which in certain certain food food stores, stores. is eaten eaten raw, raw, like like oranges oranges and and tangerines. tangerines. is It can can be be used used in in salads salads or or marmalade. marmalade. It KVASS. KWASS KwAss -- Slightly gaseous, mildly Slightly gaseous, KVASS. mildly alcoholic alcoholic drink drink similar to to beer. beer. It It isis made made in in Russia Russia by similar by adding adding fermented fermented yeast toaa must of of rye flour flourmixedwitha yeast to mixed wi th a little ted barley. little sprou sprouted barley. It isis sometimes juniper berries. sometimes flavoured with mint leaves It leaves or or juniper berriei.

s32 532

for touches white, except for winter win ter it turns almost completely white, partridge called snow snow partridge It isis sometimes sometimes called black on on the the taiI. tail. It of black plumage. because of its winter plumage. because in spite for the table, spite of of its its table, in is much sought after for This bird is fact that itit feeds feeds on on is due to to the fact flavour which is slightly bitter ftavour and other other mountain berries. myrtle berries and birch-shoots, myrtle (q.v.), which which belong grouse (q.v.), same belong to for grouse to the the same All recipes recipes for AIl lagopus, are are suitable for this this bird. bird. family as as the lagopus, suitable for family

BOUll..LE -- See CHEESE. CHEESE. LA BOUILLE

wrasse.ltis - European sea fish, a]so It is also called wrasse. LABRUS. LABRE LABREremarkable for its ils brilliant colouring, but is is tasteless, and remarkable as an an inused as limp in texture. It is is served fried, fried, or may be be used bouillabaisse (q.v.). gredient of of bouillabaisse LACHE in the delicate to eat, cooked in LACIIE -- Small sea-fish, very delicate same way as the smelt (q.v.). It is rather scarce. LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LAcRyMA-crnnn -- Wine made from LACRIMA-CHRISTI. LACRYMA-CHRISTI and grapes grown on the slopes of Vesuvius. It is rather sweet and slopes ofVesuvius.

in the the middle of of who was was born in LaguipiEre, who LAGUIPIÈRE LAGUIPDRE -- Laguipière, of the was one one of the great and died died in in 1812, was the eighteenth eighteenth century and him as as 'the Car€me described him cookery. Carême masters masters of of French French cookery. all in aIl Car€me's tutor tutor in of our our tÎmes'. times'. Carême's most chef of most remarkable chef accomwho accomfact, Laguipière, Laguipidre, who waq in in fact, branches of cookery cookery was, branches of Russia. to Russia. followed him him to and later later followed panied Murat Naples and Murat to to Naples (later Vilnius) l8l2 during the the 1812 Vilnius) during at Vilno Vilno (Iater He froze froze to death at to death from Moscow. retreat from Moscow. parisim, Cuisinier parisien, his book, book, lele Cuisinier At of his At the the beginning beginning of great master: master: about his his great following words words about Carême wrote the the following Car€me wrote pupil, voice of of aa pupil, Listen to the voice to the 'Awake, 'Awake, shade of Laguipiire! Listen shade of in Paris, surrounddied in Paris, surroundhave died aa friend, devotee ! You should have friend, aa devotee! of memory of in al! all of of us the memory ed reverence evoked evoked in us by by the ed by the reverence by the pious homage of aa your great accept the homage of great work . . . Laguipière, Laguipidre, accept the pious your work ... your name. name. 1I have have works with with your faithful my works faithful disciple. 1I couple couple my and, today, 1I invoke invoke you with pride in all my my books, and, cited in aIl cited you you my yoru memory my finest work.' your dedicate to to you memory and dedicate practitioner of art of of of the learned aa practitioner the art It regrettable that so learned It isis regrettable that so left any any written written not have have left cooking should not cooking as as Laguipière Laguipidre should posterity. for posterity. record record of of his his teachings teachings for

delicate.

LACT ARY. LACTAIREIt contains LACTARY. LAcTAIRE- Fungus of the agaric type. It aa white or coloured milky juice. Sorne lactaries are are poisonSome lactaries ous, others are edible, flavour in spite spite edible, though of rather poor ftavour of the the fact is called called delicious. fact that one type is LACTIC ACID. LACTIQUE - An acid present in sour milk and presentin and sourmilk rlcrpue-An LACTICACID. certain and isis an antiseptic antiseptic and It isis an fermented substances. i:ertain fermented substances. It 1-"'" c, . .·... ",,'J effective particularly in preventing putrefaction. A primitive effective in it in in sour preserving meat was sour milk. was to immerse it method of nrp·~prvino LACTIC These are are microbes microbes LACTIC FERMENTS. FERMENTS. LACTIQUES recrreurs -- These which are very widespread and of many kinds. kinds. When When they they which are widespread and (milk sugar) molecules are introduced molecules lactose (milk milk the introduced into milk the lactose are produced. It It isis these microbes microbes are split lactic acid acid isis produced. split and and lactic which breed on and in in dairies. dairies. of cows cows in in cowsheds cowsheds and on the the teats teats of They agents in milk and and are are one one of of the in They cause cause the curdling curdling of of miLk the agents the production of of cheese. cheese. Sour Sour milk milk isis produced either either by introducing indigenous ferments ferments into milk or or by using from into the using ferments imported from the milk the These latter, latter, being being and the Caucasus. the Balkans, Egypt Egypt and Caucasus. These adapted quantity produce aa larger larger quantity adapted to to higher higher temperatures, temperatures, produce of (See CHEESE, KOUMISS, KEFIR, KOUMISS, CHEESE, KÉFIR, of lactic lactic acid. acid. (See YOGURT.) YOGURT.)

regiven in Franche-Comte to to aa reLAITIAT in the Name given the Franche-Comté LAITIAT -- Name freshing wild fruit fruit in in whey. whey. made by freshing drink drink made by steeping steeping wild year old. old. animal before LAMB. ovine animal before itit isis aa year lcNrlu -- Young Young ovine LAMB. AGNEAU already year, wh en the After has already animal has the animal when age of of one one year, After the the age (the incisor of herbivorous herbivorous grown grown ils incisor teeth teeth of nippers (the its first first two two tlippers pennanent animaIs), lied aa yearling. When other permanent When the the other called animals), itit isis ca teeth ram or or aa ewe. ewe. becomes aa ram the animal becomes teeth appear, the forms: ln known in in two lamb isis known two forms: In the culinary culinary sense sense lamb yet (or baby) not yet 1.l. The lamb, This This animal animal has has not The milk-fed milk-fed (or baby) lamb. graze.The yet been The best been best out to tograze. and has been put out not yet weaned and has not been weaned French Pauillac lamb. lamb of French lamb of this this type type isis Pauillac young 2.2. Ordinary lamb lamb. This This isis aa young meadow lamb. lamb or or salt salt meadow yet reached ts full sheep full growth. not yet reached iits sheep which has not Good quality lamb recognised by the width of its lamb can can be be recogllls{:d Good quality loins, flesh, and and by by the the with ftesh, well covered with loins, which be weil which should should be whiteness and abundant, abundant, firm and which should be firm should be its fat, fat, which whiteness of of its freshness can can be be judged kidneys. Its Its freshness round the the kidneys. especially round from and the colour of of the the kidneys, legs and the colour its legs of its from the the firmness of

LACTOMETER. graduated densimeter llcroldrnr -- AA """.rtll'J,tprt LACTOMETER. LACTOMÈTRE which milk, from which the cream density of of milk, which shows shows the the density content can be content can calculated. be calculated. LADIES' FINGERS. GOMBO, - See LADIES'FINGERS. coMBo, GOMBAUT coMBAUrSee OKRA. OKRA. pocHE -- Large LADLE. long and aa long LAI)LE. POCHE Large spoon spoon with with cup cup bowl bowl and handle, liquid dishes. handle, used mainly for for serving dishes. used mainly serving liquid

LADY yellow apple, tinged LADY APPLE Tiny variety of pale yellow APPLE -- Tiny with and crunchy; the with carmine. The white white flesh isis firm and carmine. The ftavour flavour sweetish, with aa touch sweetish, but but with touch of of bitterness. bitterness. LAGOPUS. The lagopus or Pyreneut partridge LAGOPUS. LAGOPÈDE rlcoptps -- The has plumage with with thin thin black streaks in summer. In has tawny tawny plumage

533 533

LAMB

!------

Ba_ro_n-::--:-:-::--_1!-_ _

times part of of the loins, is left with the legs, then such aa joint joint times a part is called ca lied a baron. Half Half of of this this joint joint is known known as a quarter. quarter. The best way to prepare these these various joints joints is to roast or

~_ _ _ _ ~

., 1

pot-roast them. The loins can also be cooked whole (on the spit or in the oven) oven) but they are usually divided divided into cutlets,

L__ _

which be grilled grilled or or fried and served plain plain or with with various various which can be garnishes. lamb offal (variety garnishes. All Alllamb (variety meat) meat) is delicate delicate in flavour. fiavour.

Lamb plays an important important part both in classical classical French French cookery cookery and in home home cookery. cookery. Baby or milk-fed lamb is divided divided into the the same cuts as as ordinary lamb: lamb: baron, baron, loin, double, shoulder, leg, leg, quarter, quarter, saddle. saddle. All Ali these the se cuts can be served with garnishes garnishes recommended mind mended for ordinary lamb and for mutton. Bearing in mind the the particularly particularly delicate flavour fiavour of this this meat, however, it is advisable advisable to to serve serve it grilled, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or as as a roast, with its its own juice juice -- thickened or clear -- as the only accompaniment. ment. Other Other parts of of milk-fed lamb are used for for blanEtettes, blanquettes, ragofrts sauté dishes. ragoûts and saut6

Lamb: Lamb: division division of of the the live live animal animal

which which should be be pale pale pink. pink. Baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb is is genergenerally ally sold whole, whole, with its its pluck. It It is also sometimes sometimes sold in

_ BABY BABY oT or MILK-FED LAMB. AGNEAU AGNEAU DE LAIT LAITLeg Leg of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb in pastry ilà la p6rigourdine. périgourdine.

quarters. quarters. Lamb Lamb should be be eaten eaten at at its freshest. freshest. This This meat meat does not keep keep for for very very long. Ordinary Ordinary lamb lamb and and milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb are are sold sold in in butchers' butchers' shops shops and, and, in in France, France, in in poultry poultry shops. Ordinary lamb lamb is is divided divided into into cuts cuts like like mutton. mutton. The best best parts parts are are the legs, legs, the the saddle saddle and and the the loins. The neck neck and breast breast are principally principally used used for for making making blanquettes, blanquettes, and saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. fricassées, ragohts ragoûts and fricassies, The legs are are generally generally used used for roasting. roasting. They They are served as or with with a garnish of of vegetables vegetables -- baked, baked, as they they are, are, plain plain or dressed dressed with with butter, butter, or or braised. braised. The The shoulders, shoulders, whether whether boned boned or or not, not, are are usually usually prepared in in the the same same manner manner as as legs. legs. Two Two legs legs are are called ca lied aa double. double. When When the the saddle, saddle, and and somesome-

Baron Baron Saddle Sadd le

crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU uN EN pArE PÂTE A À r.,c, LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE -- A method method of preparation preparation for leg of of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb. lamb. Trim Trim the the leg and remove most most of of the the bone. Cook Cook in a hot oven oven for for l0 10 minutes minutes to brown brown it. it. Allow to to cool. cool. Cover Cover completely completely with sausage meat meat mixed mixed with one-third of its its weight weight of uncooked uncooked goose goose liver rubbed rubbed through through a a sieve, sieve, 22 diced diced truffies, truffies, I1 egg. egg. Wrap Wrap the the leg leg in a sheet sheet of of salt salt pork pork or or a piece piece of of pig's pig's caul, previously previously soaked soaked in cold water. water. Put Put the the leg on an oval-shaped sheet of rolled-out pastry. Cover Cover with with another sheet sheet of of pastry. pastry. Seal Seal the the edges edges by by crimping crimping them. Make Make a hole hole in in the the middle middle to to allow allow steam to to escape. escape. Brush the the top top of of the the pastry pastry with with beaten beaten egg, egg, and and put put

CUTS CUTS OF OF LAMB LAMB l.1. Shoulder:2. Shoulder; 2. Rolled Rolled shoulder shoulder l*g Leg l.1. Loin; Loin; 2.2. Bonedchops Boned chops

534

LAMB on aa baking baking sheet. Cook Cook in a moderate oven oyen for 1ljt hours. itit on

and pepper, salt and season with salt spit, season it a regular shape. Put on aa spit, roast before brisk fire, fire, and roast before aa brisk with melted melted butter butter and brush with brush (1 lb.). per 500 g. (1 lb.). allowing 20 to 25 25 minutes per 500 g. allowing garnish with with long dish, dish, and and garnish on aa long Take it off the the spit, spit, put on pan lemon. Dilute Dilute the and quarters of of lemon. the pan of watercress and bunches ofwatercress juices lamb. and serve the lamb. stock and serve with the juices with aa little stock garand garmint sauce sauce and generally served with mint served with Roast lamb lamb is is generally in roasted in can also also be be roasted Lamb can nished with various vegetables. Lamb the the oyen. oven. n'.a,cNsnu 6p.luI,E D'AGNEAU GriUedsboulder or milk-fedlamb. milk-fed lamb. ÉPAULE Grilled shoulder of baby or few slits on both both slits on DE LAIT Trim the shoulder, shoulder, make aa few cRrI,rrs- Trim LArr GRILLÉEwith melted melted butter. sides, butter. and brush brush with season, and sides, season, 25 minutes. minutes. flame for for 20 20 to to 25 Grill moderate flame Grill under under aa moderate melted butter, butter, with melted Sprinkle brush with white breadcrumbs, brush Sprinkle with white and grill or colour. to colour. or broiler broiler to and put under the grill garnished with Arrange on with watercress. watercress. dish. Serve Serve garnished on aa long dish. AGNEAU DE DE LAIT LAIr Baby rice. AGNEAU with rice. lamb stuffed strffed witb milk-fd lamb Baby or or milk-fed (see pilaf (see FARCI Rice pilaf with half-cooked lamb with half-cooked Rice AU RIZ nrz -- Stuffthe Stuffthe lamb FARcr AU liver, heart, heart, PILAF), animal's liver, added the the animal's which have have been been added PILAF), to to which sweetbreads fried into small slices, briskly briskly fried small slices, cut into and kidneys, kidneys, eut sweetbreads and in and seasoned. seasoned. in butter, butter, and Sew lamb. Coyer Cover the the back back the lamb. and truss truss the opening, and Sew up up the the opening, place. Put with Put on on aa spit spit in place. tied in rashers of of bacon bacon tied with strips or rashers strips or per and 2V25 minutes minutes per allowing 20-25 lively fire, roast before fire, allowing before aa lively and roast 500 (l lb.). g. (1 lb.). 500 g. Remove and eut cut away away off the the bacon bacon and spit" take take off Remove from from the the spit, trussing garnish with watercress with watercress dish, garnish long dish, Put on on aa long string. Put trussing string. juices, diluted and pan juices, with diluted with quarters oflemon. with the Serve with the pan of lemon. Serve and quarters aa few stock. few tablespoons of stock. tablespoons of

When removed removed from the oven, oyen, pour through the hole in When the top top l+ It dl. (* (t pint, Jt cup) Pdrigaeux Périgueux sauce (see SAUCE). the Serve on on aa napkin-covered napkin-covered dish. dish. Serve This kind kind of of hot pie can also be made with a boned boned and rolled leg of of ordinary lamb. rolled of baby baby or or milk-fed milk-fed lamb lamb irà la la Clamart. Clamart. CARRÉ Loin of c.mnf D'AGNEAU Loin Àu LA crruvrenr CLAMART - Trim of baby or milk-fed lamb and A - Trim the loin of pot-roast it in butter. When When cooked, add to the add to the casserole g. (12 (12 o2.,2| oz., 2t cups) fresh fresh garden peas prepared prepared àd la garden peas 350 g. under aa française (see (see PEAS). Leave to simmer sim mer for 55 minutes under frangaise lido lid. Loin of of baby baby ormilk-fed or milk-fed lamb La Varenne. CARRÉ cennE D'AGNEAU lambLa Loin LA vARENNE VARENNE - Bone a a trimmed trimmed loin baby or or milk-fed milk-fed loin of baby LA Beat it to flatten slightly, season lamb. Beat season with salt and pepper, dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and with breadcrumbs, pressing cover with dip and coyer down well weil to to make make the the crumbs adhere. loin in in adhere. Cook Cook the the loin butter until until both sides our. clarified butter colour. sides are aa golden col clarified Arrange on on aa dish foundation composed composed of aa salpicon dish on on aa foundation Arrange of cultivated cultivated Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked in cream (see MUSH(q.v.) of crearn (see MUSHROOMS). Sprinkle Sprinkle with (see BUTTER, with Noisette Norette butter butter (see ROOMS). Compound butters). Compound butters). of baby baby or Loin of D'AcNEAU cmnr D'AGNEAU maharaiah. CARRÉ lamb maharajab. or milk-fed lamb Loin MAHARADJAH - Trim a loin of milk-fed lamb and pot-roast in in milk-fed a loin of Trim MAHARADJAH butter. butter. When half-cooked, (3 oz., onion g. (3 cup) chopped chopped onion add 75 75 g. oz.,*~ cup) When half-cooked, add lightly butter. Season curry teaspoon curry salt, 1I teaspoon Season with salt, lightly cooked in butter. cooked in powder and lid on. with aa lid on. powder and aa clove of garlic. Cook Cook with clove of Serve shed with (see PILAF) PILAF) and and small garnished Rice pilaf (see small with Rice Serve garni tomatoes juices with pan juices lj dl. dl. with It in oiL oil. Dilute Dilute the cooked in the pan tomatoes cooked (t pint, 1 cup) white wine, add 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) fresh $ pint, 3 cnp) white wine, add 2 dl. $ pint, scant cup) fresh cream, pour over curry. simmer, and and pour over the the curry. cream, simmer, Loin baby or clnnf D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU milk-fed lamb lamb Monselet. Monselet. CARRÉ Loin of of baby or milk-fed MONSELET lamb and and cook cook milk-fed lamb loin of of baby or milk-fed MoNSELET -- Trim Trim aa loin baby or under with freshly freshly grill. When nearly cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with When nearly under aa grill. grated grill to golden. put back grated breadcrumbs turn golden. and put under grill to turn back under breadcrumbs and Put (see POTATOES). potatoes (see POTATOES)' Put on Anna potatoes of Anna on aa foundation foundation of Garnish in butter. butter. cooked in quarters of with quarters artichokes cooked of small small artichokes Garnish with Surround (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce buttered Demi-glace Surround with with aa border border of of buttered SAUCE). sAUCE). Loin perigourdine. CARRÉ clnn6 la périgourdine. lamb ài la milk-fed lamb Inin of of baby baby or or milk-fed D'AGNEAU - Trim pEnIcouRDINEand bone Trim and bone aa ll PÉRIGOURDINE D'AGNEAU EN ru CRÉPINE cnfpwn Ài LA loin and cook cook in in butter until three-quarters three-quarters butter until milk-fed lamb lamb and loin of of milk-fed done. cool. done. Allow Allow to to cool. Coat pork forcemeat forcemeat with finely minced pork finely minced on both sides with both sides Coat on mixed piece of pig's caul of pig's caul in aa thin Wrap in thin piece with diced diced trufHes. truffes. Wrap mixed with previously covers the fat covers the previously soaked water. Make Make sure sure the the fat in cold cold water. soaked in meat with cover with melted butter, with melted butter, coyer meat completely. Spread with completely. Spread white grill or and grill or with more more butter butter and sprinkle with white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle broil garnish with with small small loin on dish, garnish low heat. Put the on aa dish, on low heat. Put the loin broil on potato Pirigueux sauce sauce with Périgueux potato balls in butter. Serve with cooked in butter. Serve balls cooked (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb à la viennoise. CARRÉ Fried loin of baby or milk-fed lamb i la viennoise. clnnf D'AGNEAU FRIT À preparation Method of of preparation LA VIENNOISE vIENNoIsr -- Method D'AcNEAU rnrr .l LA suitable (or baby) lamb. milk-fed (or baby) lamb. for loin loin of of milk-fed only for suitable only Divide lemon in oil, for 1I hour hour in oil, lemon loin in in half. half. Marinate Marinate for Divide the the loin juice, juice, salt, pieces of parsley. Drain pepper and Drain the of the pieces and chopped chopped parsley. salt, pepper lamb in egg and breaddip in egg and breadin flour flour and and dip lamb and and dry; dredge in dry; dredge crwnbs. fat. deep-fry in sizzling fat. or deep-fry in sizzling Fry in in clarified clarified butter butter or crumbs. Fry Garnish quarters of parsley and lemon. of lemon. and quarters Garnish with with fried fried parsley Quarter of lamb. QUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising Quarter of lamb. eUARTIER D'AGNEAU - Joint comprising the from baby or baby or It isis mainly mainly taken taken from leg and and half saddle. It half the the saddle. the leg milk-fed (Pauillac) lamb, and is usually roasted. Ali (Pauillac) All the the roasted. lamb, and is usually milk-fed le of garnishes ordinary or sadd saddle of ordinary garnishes recommended for baron recommended for baron or lamb applicable to quarter of lamb. lamb are are applicable to quarter of lamb. Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. AGNEAU DE LAIT RÔTI - This Roast baby or milk-fed lamb. acNrAU DE LlIr nOu - This method of preparation is suitablefor smalliambs. Dress the lambs. Dress the preparation for is suitable small method of and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give skin over the knuckles skin over the knuckles and shoulders. Truss the lamb to give

RoaSl Roast baron baronoflamb oflamb

LAMB. AGNEAU -_ LAMB. AGNEAU Baron comprising the the The eut cutcomprising BARoND'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU - - The lamb. BARON Baronof of lamb. le. This two joint isisroasted potroasted on spitor orpotonaaspit This joint and the legs and the sadd saddle. two legs roasted, juice. roast ininits itsown own juice. asaaroast may also also be servedas roasted, but beserved but may ItIt isis accompanied garnish of vegetables, either either of vegetables, by aa garnish accompanied by arranged joint or withits its andwith served separately, separately, and orserved around the thejoint arranged around own juice, left nature dependingon onthe thenature leftasasitit isisor orthickened, thickened, depending own juice, of garnish. of the thegarnish. For Average METHODS, Average Forcooking seeCULINARY CULINARY METHODS, cooking time time see cooking roasts. times for roasts. cookingtimesfor for baron of lamb. Green vegetables Garnishes suitable Garnishes suitable for baron of lamb. Green vegetables am; braised ver soise; ; dressed Anversoise vegetables ;An cream; braised vegetables; with butter orcre dressed with butter or bouquetière; jarduchesse ;jarDauphine ; duchesse; Clamart ; Dauphine; bretonne ; Clamart; bouquetiire ; bretonne; dinière; provengale;renaissance; parisienne; provençale; rmaissance; macddoine; parisienne; diniire; macédoine; Richelieu. (seePOpotatoes(see PO(See GARNISHES.) Anna potatoes GARNISHES.) Anna Richelieu.(See TATOES) ways potatoesprepared preparedininvarious variousother otherways TATOES)and andpotatoes would wouldalso alsobe besuitable. suitable. 535 535

LAMB LAMB Blanquette of lamb. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- This of lamb. This method method BllUlQuette preparation isis often of preparation often describcd described as as aa fricassée. of fricassie. pieces of Soak the the pieces of lamb lamb and and dry dry weil. well. Fry Fry in in butter withbutter withSoak out allowing allowing to to brown. brown. Season. Season. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons out (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, flour, blend blend over over heat, heat, add add white white stock stock and and (3 garnish as (see below). as for for Blanquette Blanquette of of lamb lantb àd l'ancienne I'ancienne (see below). gamish Bring to to the with the the boil, boil, simmer simmer with lid on from 45 the lid on from 45 minutes minutes to to Bring hour. 1I hour. pan. Add Transfer to another pan. to another Add small small onions, onions, mushrooms, mushrooms, Transfer yolks as and the sauce. Blend Blend in the sauce. in egg egg yolks as described described below. below. and Blanquette of lamb àI l'ancienne. of lamb I'ancienne. BLANQUETTE BLANeUETTE D'AGNEAU D'AcNs^au ÀA Blanquette L'ANcIENNE -- This This isis made made of of shoulder shoulder and and ribs ribs of of ordinary ordinarv L'ANCIENNE (4 lb.) meadow lamb. lamb. Cut or salt salt meadow 1* kg. Cut l~ kg. (4 lb.) lamb lamb into into unifonn uniform or pieces. Soak Soak for for 1I hour hour in in water, water, blanch, dip dip in in cold cold water water to to pieces. cool, and and dry. dry. cool, Put into into aa shallow pan. Add shallow pan. (or aa light Add enough enough white stock stock (or light Put pot-au-fa,t broth just cover broth -- sec see SOUPS SOUpS AND AND-BROTHS) coier pot-au-feu BROTHS) to just the meaL meat. Add Add 22 medium-sized medium-sized carrots quarters, 2 carrots eut in quarters, cut in the medium-sized onions onions -- one one studded studded with with aa clove clove -- and and aa medium-sized garni consisting bouquet garni consisting of parsley, aa stalk of aa sprig sprig of of parsley, stalk of of bouquet leeks, aa sprig celery, 22 leeks, of thyme thyme and sprig of and aa bay leaf. Season bay leaf. Season with celery, salt. salt. Bring to remove scwn to the the boil, boil, remove scum and and simmer with the lid simmer with lid .on on Bring pan 45 the pan 45 minutes minutes to to 1I hour. hour. the Take out pieces of out the the pieces lamb and of lamb and remove remove small pieces of small pieces of Take and skin bone and which havè skin which havi become become detached detached during during cooking. bone Put the lamb into into aa shallow pan with the lamb shallow pan 12 small with 12 small onions Put previously cooked (q.v.), and cooked in in aa cou court-banillon and the the same previously ri-bouillon (q.v.), number of cooked cooked mushrooms. nwnber of mushrooms. (q.v.) of Make aa roux roux (q.v.) g.(2L of 60 60 g. oz., 5 tablespoons) Make (2t oz., tablespoons) butter (3 oz., g. (3 and75 oz.,t cup) flour. flour. Add Add the strained stock in which and 75 g. the strained "up) the cooked, simmer for 15 minutes, skim, strain, lamb was was cooked, for 15 the lamb and pour over the and pour over the lamb. lamb. gently for Simmer gently for 20 20 to minutes. Blend Simmer to 25 25 minutes. Blend in 44 egg yolks yolks (6 tablespoons, mixed with 1I dl. dl. (6 scant ft cup) cup) cream, cream, aa dash tablespoons, seant mixed with of and aa pinch grated nutmeg. of lemon lemon juice juice and pinch of of grated nutmeg. Keep Keep the blanquette do not blanquelle hot hot but but do not allow allow to to boil. boil. Alternatively, cook the and put the lamb lamb in in stock, stock, and put it it into into a AJternatively, cook shallow pan with onions onions cooked cooked in the and the shallow pan with in court-bouillon, and mushrooms. mushrooms. Keep Keep hot hot with with the the pan pan covered. covered. Prepare Prepare (see SAUCE) Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see SA UCE) with with the stock stock in which the lamb was cream and lemon juice, was cooked. cooked. Blend Blend with with egg egg yolks, yolks, cream juice, to cloth, and to the the desired desired consistency, consislency, strain strain through through aa tammy tammycloth, pour pour over over the the lamb. lamb. Lamb's Lamb's braimbrains - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAUD'AGNEAU - This is is generally gencrally used for making ragofits ragolÎts or or saut6 sauté dishes. dishes. It 1t can can also be be made made into for making ipigrarnmes épigrammes (q.v.) (q.v.) and and is is used used instead of of beef bœf to to prepare prepare country country soups soups (see (sec SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Mutton Mu/ton broth). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast iil I'englaise. l'anglaise. porrRrNE pOI'mrr'iE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À r'aucL'ANGLAIsE LAISE - Cook Cook the the breast breast as as in in the the recipe recipe for for Lamb's Lamb's breast breast dci la la diable diable (see (sec below) below) and and leave leave to to get get cold under undcr a press. press. Cut into into rectangular rectangular pieces, pieces, dip dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcmmbs and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on a long long dish, dot dot with with dabs dabs of of half-melted half-melted Maitre MaÎ/re d'h6tel d'hô/el butter buller (see (sec BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). bul/ers). Lamb's Lamb's breast breast fried frjed in in batter. botter. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AcNEl,u D'AGNEAU EN EN FRrror FRITOT -- Braise, Braise, bone, bone, cool cool under under aa press press and cut eut the the breast breast of of lamb lamb into into small, small, square square pieces. pieces. Steep for for I1 hour hour in in oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsJey, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces in in light light batter batter and and deep-fry. deep-fry. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with finely finely ground ground salt. salt. Arrange Arrange on on a a napkin napkin in in aa pyramid, pyramid, garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley, parsley, and and serve with with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. Lamb's Lamb's breast breast in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs wifr with various variollS garnfuhes. garnishes. porrRrNE D'AGNEAU pAwEe- Cook pieces of breast, dipped in POITRINE D'AGNEAU PANÉE - Cook pieces of breast, dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, in in clarified clarified butter butter as as described described in in the the egg and recipe Lamb's breast breast dà I'anglaise. l'anglaise. recipe for for Larnb's

Arrange in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. dish. Fill Fill the middle of Arrange the middle of the dish the dish garnish indicated. with the the garnish indicated. Surround Surround with with aa border with border of of thickened veal veal stock. stock. thickened Garnishes sui/able suitable for breast inin breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Green Green Garnishes for breas/ vegetables blended purees of blended with with butter butter or or cream; cream; purées various vegetables of various vegetables; spinach, pur6e; rice spinach, leaf leaf or pilaf or or purée; rice pilaf risotto; vegetables; or risotto; pasta products products with various pasta with butter butter or or dd /'ilalienne, I'italienne, new new various potatoes in glazed, or in butter; carrots, carrots, glazed, la Vichy. Vichy. or cid la potatoes Lamb's breast breast ili la la diable. diable. POITRINE ForrRrNE D'AGNEAU o'^l,cNe.au ÀA LA Lamb's LA, DIABLE -- Braise Braise the the breast cook itit in breast or or cook in aa !ittle little white white stock. stock. DIABLE Drain, and and remove remove ail all the rib bones. Leave the rib Leave to cool under under aa to cool Drain, press. Cut into rectangular pieces, pieces, spread Cut into spread these press. these with with musmuspinch of pepper. Dip and aa pinch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Dip in in melted butter and and tard and Sprinkle with butter grill. butter and and cook cook on on aa low grill. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle in aa circle circle on dish, and garnish garnish with on aa dish, with watercress. Arrange in (see SAUCE). Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). Serve porrRrNE D'AGNEAU Epigrammes of lamb's breast. of lamb's breast. POITRINE D'AcNrau EN EN Épigrammes fprcn.lums -- Braise aa lamb's lamb's breast or or poach it in in very little little ÉPIGRAMMES white stock. stock. Drain, bone, bone, and and cool cool under aa press. white into heart-shaped pieces of Cut into heart-shaped pieces of uniforrn uniform size. size. Dip Dip in in egg Cut egg and breaderumbs. breadcrumbs. and At the same same time dip in egg egg and breadcrumbs aa number of At of similar in in shape shape and size to the pieces of breast. lamb chops, similar pieces of breast under aa low grill Cook the chops and and the pieees grill or Cook saut6 them bath both in butter. sauté Arrange crown on a long dish. Decorate the end bones Arrange in a erown paper frills. garnish in the middle with paper frills. Put the recommended recommended garnish with of the dish. dish. Pour aa few few tablespoons (see tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see on the ipigrammes, or the épigrammes, left over or the stock left over from SAUCE) on the stock braising the breast, boiled down and strained. Garnishes sui/able suitable for ipigrammes of of lamb. lamb. Ail All those those Garnishes for épigrammes recommended noisettes. recommended elsewhere for lamb chops or noiselles. Sfitred breast r,mcn -- Sht Slit Stutred breast of lamb. porrRrNE POITRINE D'AGNEAU FARCIE pockets. Fill of breast to the Fill them the pieces pieces of to form fonn pockets. them with with fine forcemeat bound with an egg. Sew up the opening. opening. Wrap Wrap the pieces in in thin in a of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise them them in a small pieces thin rashers rashers of quantity of Jiquid. liquid. quantity Drain and glaze. on aa dish Drain the pieces. Unwrap and glaze. Arrange Arrange on and as indicated. Sprinkle with strained pan and garnish gamish as indicated. Sprinkle with the the strained juices. juices. Stuffed breast of lamb can be served with all garnishes Stu/fed breast of ail the garnishes recommended reeommended for for pieces pieces of of braised braised lamb or mutton. Lamb chops. chopo. cOrsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU - Rib lamb chops chops are cut In France cdtelettes and and cut from the rib rib roast. roast.ln France they they are are called ca lied côtelettes in in England they are called cutlets. cutlets. Loin lamb lamb chops are cut eut from the the loin and are known in French as c6tes.In côtes. ln England they they are known known as lamb chops. chops. Chops are most often grilled, grilled, but all aIl preparations preparations recommended mended in in the following following recipes are suitable for rib chops chops (cutlets) (cutlets) or or lamb chops chops cut from from the the loin. They They can be be served with the garnishes gamishes recommended for Mutton MullOn catlets CUI lets with any of the (see (sec MUTTON). M UTTON). Most Most frequently frequently these these garnishes gamishes consist consist of of a green asparagus tips, tips, etc. etc. green vegetable, vegetable, such as as beans, beans, peas, peas, asparagus dressed d ressed with wi th butter. bu !ter. Lamb chops Ià l'ancienne. l'ancienne. c6tersrrrs CÔTELETTF.S D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À L'ANL'ANcIENNE CŒNNE -- Fry Fry the the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in a crown on aa dish. Garnish the the middle with with a a ragofrt ragoût of of lambs' lambs' sweetdish. Garnish breads, breads, cocks' combs and kidneys, kidneys, truffies trumes and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound wth with Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and cream. cream. Dilute Dilute juices with the the pan panjuices with Madeira, Madeira, sherry sherry or or other other similar similar wine, wine, add add aa little little light Iight Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) SAUCE) and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Garnish Gamish the the bones bones with with paper paper frills. frills. Lamb Lamb chops chops ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. c0relerrEs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À t'^LNGL'ANGLAISE LAISE -- These These are are prepared prepared in in two two ways: ways: Grilled. Grilled. Season Season the the chops, chops, dip dip in in melted melted butter butter and and breadbreadcrumbs cnlmbs and and grill grill or or broil. broil. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Gamish with with grilled grilled strips strips or or rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and watercress. watercress.

*

536 536

LAMB Sautied. Sautéed. Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and saut6 sauté in clarified butter. Arrange sprinkle Arrange in a crown on a dish and sprinkle with Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with .llorbette Lrmb Lamb chops chops in in aspic jelly. jelly. cdrnrerrEs CÔTELETTES u'l,cNE,q,u D'AGNEAU A À Le LA cel,6n a large lamb lamb loin, neatly trimmed, in very GELÉE -- Braise a little court-bouillon (q.v.). Allow to to cool in its own strained little court-bouillon juices. juices. Drain and glaze with Drain and cut cut into into chops. chops. Dry Dry them them and with jelly. jelly. (The (The pan pan juices juices left left over over from from braising braising the the cutlets should be be added added to to the the jelly jelly before before its its clarification.) clarification.) Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in in aa turban turban on on a dish. Garnish with chopped jelly, jelly, hardhardboiled cut into quarters, lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, or with with mixed boiled eggs eggs cut salads. or, as salads. Serve Serve with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise or or Tartare Tartare sauce sauce or, as is is customary customary in in England, England, with with Mint Mint sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SA UCE,

Lamb chops conn -- Coat the chops Conti. cdrBrnrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CONTI chops chops on on both both sides sides with with a a mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) of vegetables finely chopped and cooked in butter. Dip in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry in clarified butter. Arrange Arrange in a crown on a dish, alternating with slices of ham ham cut in triangles and fried fried in butter. Garnish the the centre of the the dish dish with a a fairly thick Lentil purie purée (se (see PUREE). PURÉE). Surround Surround with with a a border border of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Lamb chops chops in in cr6pinettes. crépinettes. cOTELETTBS CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU EN cnfplNsrrEs as Mutton chops in in cripinettes crépinettes (see (see CRÉPINETTES - Prepare as MUTTON), MUTION), or, instead of of braising braising them, fry them in butter before wrapping them in pieces of thin salt salt pork or pig's caul. cauJ. Lamb chops Dubarry. c6rrrnrrEs CÔTELETTES o'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DUBARRv DUBARRY Grill or fry the chops and garnish with cauliflower cauliflower divided divided into florets and covered with Mornay Mornay sauce (se, (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkled sprinkled with Parmesan Pannesan cheese. Brown Brown in the oven oyen or or under a grill. Lamb chops ià la financiire. financière. c6TELETTEs CÔTELETTES o'.e,cNBAU D'AGNEAU A À ul LA rN,c,NctiRE FINANCIÈRE -- Fry Fry the chops. Add Madeira to the pan and and finish finish off off the the sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Arrange Arrange the the chops chops in a circle circle in a puff puff pastry shell (not too too raised) raised) and and garnish garnish the the middle middle with a a Ragofit Ragoût d à la financière (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). financiire IfIf there there is is no no time time to to make make aa pastry pastry shell, shell, the the chops chops can be arranged arranged in in a a crown, crown, putting putting each each on on a a heart-shaped heart-shaped crofiton croûton fried fried in in butter. butter. Lamb Lamb chops chops ià la frar4aise. française. cdrrrnrrrs CÔTELETTES o'lcNeeu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA FRAN9ATSE 12 cutlets, put them them under a press; press; when wh en FRANÇAISE -- 'Fry 12 coat with with chicken quenelle quenelle forcemeat. forcemeat. they are are cold, cold, coat they 'Put 'Put them them on on aa metal metal sheet sheet greased greased with with clarified butter butter and glaze with with egg. egg. Cook Cook in the the oven, oyen, painting painting them with with and melted butter from from time time to to time, time, until until nicely nicely golden. melted butter 'Prepare 'Prepare aa croustade croustade (q.v.) (q.v.) from from a pieoe piece of of bread bread about about l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, scooped scooped out out in in the the middle middle and and fried fried in in deep deep fat. fat. Put Put this this croustade croustade in in the the middle rniddle of of an entrde entrée dish, place place the the cutlets cutlets around around itit and and fill fill the the middle middle with with fried dish, lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads and and truffies. truffies. Glaze Glaze and and serve.' serve.' (Ic (La Grande Grande Cuisine Cuisine simplifie, simplifée, by by Robert, Robert, 1845.) 1845.) Lamb Lamb chops chops with with garnish. garnish. c6rer,srrEs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU s,lur6Es SAUTÉES cARNIES GARNIES -- Season Season the the chops chops and and sautf sauté them them in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with vegetables vegetables or or any any other other garnish garnish recommended recommended below. below. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, add add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or veal veal stock, stock, boil boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. or

Cold Cold sauces.'1 sauces.)

Instead Instead of of cooking cooking the the loin loin whole whole and and then then cutting cutting it, it, the the chops Chaudchops can can be be prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Chaudfroid of of larnb lamb chops chops (see (see below). below). froid Bar-man Bar-man lamb lamb chops. chops. c6tnlrrrrs CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU BAR-MAN BAR-MAN -Grill Grill the the chops. chops. Garnish Garnish with with whole, whole, grilled grilled tomatoes tomatoes and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Put Put aa rasher rasher of ofgrilled grilled bacon bacon on on each each cutlet, cutlet, and and garnish garnish with with watercress. watercress. Lamb Lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbg breadcrumbs, garnished. gamished. cOrnrnrres CÔTELETIES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU peNfss PANÉES cARNrEs GARNIES -- Dip Dip the the chops chops in in egg egg and and breadbreadcrumbs crumbs ififthey they are are to to be be fried, fried, and and in in butter butter and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs ifif they the y are are to to be be grilled. grilled. Fry Fry in in clarified clarified butter, butter, or or cook cook under under the the grill grill on on low low heat. heat. Surround Surround with with the the recommended recommended garnish. garnish. All Ali the the garnishes garnishes for for fried fried lamb lamb chops chops are are applicable applicable to to lamb lamb chops chops in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Lamb Lamb chops chops Brossard. Brossard. cOrersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU BRossARD BROSSARD -Dip Dip the the chops chops in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with chopped chopped trufres. truffies. Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa crown crown on on aa dish. Garnish the the middle middle of of the the dish dish with with mushrooms mushrooms dish. Garnish cooked cooked in in cream. cream. Put Put aa border border of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round round the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chops chops Champvallon. Champvallon. cOrer,errrs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cHAMpCHAMPvALLoN VALLON -- Choose Choose lower lower ribs ribs from from salt salt meadow meadow lamb, lamb, cut cut fairly fairly thick. thick. Proceed Proceed as as with with Mutton Mutton chops chops Champvallon Champvallon (see (see MUTTON. MUTTON).

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb chops lambchops

Chaud-froid Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops. chops. c6rrrrrrrs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU EN EN cHAUD-FRop CHAUD-FROID-- Braise Braise thick thick chops chops in in very very little little liquid. liquid. Leave Leave to press in in the the stock stock in in which which they they were were to get get cold,under cold. under aa press braised, braised, strained strained and and with with surplus surplus fat fat removed. removed. When When they they are are quite quite cold, cold, drain, drain, trim, trim, and and cover coyer with with Chaud-froid Ch au djro id sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) using using the the pan pan juices juices in in which which the the cutlets cutlets were were cooked. cooked. Decorate Decorate with with pieces pieces of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg whites, whites, truffies, truffies, pickled pickled tongue, tongue, etc. etc. Glaze Glaze with with liquid liquid jelly jelly and and leave leave in in aa cold cold place place to to set. set. Lay Lay the the chops chops in in aa circle circle on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. Chaud-froid of of lamb lamb chops chops can can jelly. Serve Serve with with mint mint sauce. sauce. Chaud-froid be be served served with with aa vegetable vegetable salad salad or or mixed mixed salad. salado

GriUed lamb lambchops chopsserved served with with rice rice Grilled

537 537

LAMB fried, can can be Lamb chops, be braised, chops, instead instead of of being fried, Lamb braised, allowed to get cold in the juices and then put into buttered papers. over from braising will be used for moistenThe juices left over &txelles (q.v.). ing the duxelles o'AcNerq,u À A LA t,l, la parisienne. CÔTELETTES c0rsrsrrEs D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb chops àil la pARTstENNB then in in breadbeaten egg, then - Dip the chops inin beaten in clarified mixed with chopped chopped truffies. clarified crumbs crumbs mixed truffies. Cook in Garnish the middle of butter. Arrange in a crown in aa dish. Gamish butter. Arrange cream. Put aa border of the dish with mushrooms cooked in cream. asparagus tips dressed with butter round the chops. as})araglLls pfnnqrrre Lanb chops cOTELETTEs D'AGNEAU ni""","C..,."rD chops Périnette. P6rinette. CÔTELETTES mixed with and breadcrumbs mixed with finely Dip in egg egg and Dip the the chops in chopped cooked ham. Fry them in clarified butter. Arrange in a crown alternating with rows of of baby marrows Arrange alternating with (zucchini) eut in oil. oil. Garnish Garnish the cut in long slices and fried fried in (zucchini) in long slices and (see FONDUE) middle of the with aa Tomato fondue dish with fondue (see middle the dish mixed with sweet pimentos, cut in large dice and fried in oil. p'l,cNEl,u ÀA LA Lamb Lamb chops ili la la portugaise. CÔTELETTES cdreremEs D'AGNEAU poRrucArsE - Fry the lamb chops with chops in in butter. Garnish with butter. Garnish oven or under a very small, stuffed tomatoes, cooked cooked in the the oven juices witb pan juices grill. Dilute add aa little Dilute the with white white wine, wine, add the pan puree with tomato purée with aa finely or pounded c10ve clove of of finely chopped or pour tbis garlic blended in, and pour this sauce over the chops. pRINcEssE D'AGNBAU PRINCESSE Lamb chops princesse. CÔTELETTES cOrnlsrrEs D'AGNEAU describes the This name ~~,'VL'VV" the following two methods of prepara-

for

Garnishes lamb chops. chops. Green Green vegetables Garnishes suitable for lamb vegetables; butter or cream; various braised ve~~et,lbll~s cream; various dressed with butter potatoes prepared in various ways; pur6es purées of fresh or dried garnishes, vegetables; pasta products; rice; risotto; and and the garnishes, vegetables; simple or or mixed, mixed, recommended recommended for fil let steaks, for small small fillet simple and médaillons midaillozs of veal, noisettes tournedos, of veal, noisettes and tournedos, escalopes of

mutton or lamb. GriUed lamb chops chops garnished garnished with various vegetables. with variors Grilld lamb

pe LÉGUMES CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU cnrur,Ess GRILLÉES GARNIES cARNIES DE LEcuIrtEs cOTELETTES Season melted butter or oil, and cook Season the cutlets, brush with melted

-

flame. Garnish Garnish with vegetables. Put paper under a moderate flame. friUs on end bones. frills

garnished with with various various green Grilled chops can be garnished Grilled chops can be (asparagus tips, vegetables, dressed with with butter butter or or cream cream (asparagus vegetables, young broad beans, French beans, beans, kidney beans, young kidney beans, beans, garden French prepared in peas, peas, etc.); etc.); potatoes prepared in different different ways; ways; braised pur6es of vegetables lettuce, endive, etc.); purées of fresh vegetables (celery, lettuce, vegetables; marrows (zucchini) or or aubergines aubergines cut in vegetables; small marrows dice and sautéed oil; tomatoes lightly sautéed sauteed in sauteed in butter or oi!; butter or in Brussels sprouts sprouts or or cauliflower sautéed saut6ed in or oil; oil; Brussels butter in butter; cucumbers cut into into uniform and cooked in uniform pieces and butter; butter; artichoke fried lightly in butter, etc. artichoke hearts fried Lamb chops à D'AcNEAU À A L'ITALIt'metIc6rersrrEs D'AGNEAU i l'italienne. I'italienne. CÔTELETTES ENNE - See I'italimne. See MUTION, MUTTON, Mutton chops àd l'italienne. ENNELamb D'AGNEAU MAINLamb chopo Maintenon. Maintenon. CÔTELETTES cdrsrerrEs D'AGNEAU TENON rENoN -- See chops Maintenon. See MUTTON, Mutton chops Lamb o'l,cNr.,q.u À A LA la maréchale. ln Lamb cbops marechale. CÔTELETTES c0relsrrEs D'AGNEAU chops à la MARÉCHALE -- Dip clarified u.lnfcuern Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified

i

tion:

and breadcrumbs, fry fry them l. Dip the in egg egg and them in in the chops chops in with Garnish with clarified butter, arrange in aa circle on aa dish. Gamish with butter and little bunches of asparagus tips dressed with butter and little bunches of tips dressed (sen sauce (see coarsely Serve with with Allemande Allemande sauce coarsely shredded truffies. Serve SAUCE) based based on concentrated mushroom stock. in aa circle. 2. circle. Cover 2. Cook the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in with with Allemande sauce sauce based based on on concentrated mushroom and garnish the stock. op and on each the Put aa sliver of truffie trufre on each ch chop stock. Put with asparagus tips dressed with middle dish with middle of the tips dressed with butter. the dish juices with Madeira and Dilute and thickened brown Dilute the the pan juices stock. stock. Pour this over the chops. o'lcNelu À.4, LA Lamb chops la romaine. romaine. CÔTELETTES r,A, Lamb chops ài la cdrsLsrrEs D'AGNEAU on aa RoMAIM -- Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in aa crown on ROMAINE alternating with with rows rows of crofitons of dish, dish, alternating of heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons dish with fried in middle of the with Garnish the bread in butter. butter. Garnish the dish bread fried the middle potato balls, and tossed in butter tossed in cooked in small small potato balls, cooked butter and in conPour over over the centrated meat meat stock. stock. Pour the chops chops Romaine sauce centrated (see SAUCE) to which which the diluted with 22 table(see the pan juices, diluted (3 tablespoons) wine vinegar, have been added. spoons (3 been added. Lamb chopo Rmsini. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU ROSSINI RossrNr - Fry c0rrt"errus D'AGNEAU and arrange arrange on Put on on each aa the chops in butter, and on aa dish. dish. Put gral fried in in butter and and 22 or 33 slivers trufle slice of foie gras slivers of truffle slicr of (or any with Madeira (or tossed in in butter. butter. Dilute the the pan juices with (se SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see similar wine), add add SOrne some Demi-glace similar wine), chops. boil down, strain strain and pour over the chops. u'AGNTAU A LA tn Lamb AGNEA U À Lamb chops la rouennaise. CÔTELETTES c0rnt.srres D' chops lii la RoUENNATSE -- Fry in butter. cooked, ROUENNAISE Fry the the chops chops in butter. When half cooked, onion add to the pan 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped onion shallots. lightly cooked in in butter, butter, and I teaspoon chopped shallots. alternating on aa dish, alternating Drain the chops. Arrange in aa crown crown on Pour cro0tons fried fried in in butter. with with rows rows of butter. Pour of heart-shaped croûtons over the the following sauce: sauce: (+ pint" li pan juices with 33 dl. lf cups) utps) Demi-glace Dilute the panjuices dl. (! remove from from the Boil for for 55 minutes, remove the sauce sauce (s* SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil heat and stir chicken livers livers rubbed rubbed through aa in 33 uncooked chicken stir in (3 tablespoons) fine with 22 tablespoons tablespoons) tablespoons (3 fine sieve, sieve, blended blended with Calvados. allowing to Put the sauce the sauce without allowing to boil. boil. Put Heat without Calvados. Heat gently and in 22 teaspoons through Heat gently and blend strainer. Heat blend in through aa strainer. butter. butter. o'acNE,q,u ÀA LA le Lamb la sarladaise. chops ài la cOrnurrns D'AGNEAU Lamb chops sarladaise. CÔTELETTES SARLADAlSE chops or fry them in butter. Arrange or fry them in sARLADATsE -- Grill the chops

butter. put on and put on each aa sliver crown, and in aa crown, Arrange the chops in of Garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips heated in butter. butter. Garnish of truffie heated (see dressed butter. Put sauce (see Put aa border of Demi-glace sauce dressed with with butter. SAUCE) mixed with Madeira Madeira and butter around the chops. p'lctlElu ÀA LA Le Lanb chops ilI la lrr mexicaine. CÔTELETTES c0rnr,srrEs D'AGNEAU MEXICAINE MEXIcAINE -- Fry the chops in butter. Arrange in a crown on aa dish with bananas cut in in slices, middle with dish and and garnish the the middle bananas cut dipped in batter and fried. (for 66 chops) 22 tablespoons Add Add to tablespoons (3 to the the pan juices (for pinq scant cup) tablespoons) wine vinegar. Pour in 2 dl. (* pint, brown brown veal stock. Simmer to thicken. Add to it the peel of 1I and orange, well drained, drained, and rinsed in in cold cold water, water, well orange, blanched, rinsed the chops. finely shredded. Pour over the Le MINUTELrn[JTE c6rnr,nrrrs D'AcNEAU ÀA LA Minute lamb chopc. CÔTELETTES in Beat the chops flat and season. Sauté Saut6 as briskly as possible in sizzling butter. Arrange in a crown. Pour over the chops the butter left in in juice and the and sorne lemon juice with aa dash dash of of lemon some chopped the pan, with parsley added to it. D'AGNEAU MONMoNCOTTLETTES D'AGNEAU Lrmb chops Montrouge. CÔTELETTES TROUGE and fry fry in in clarified egg and breadcrumbs and TRoucE -- Dip in egg butter. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle on aa dish. in aa crown crown on Arrange in butter. Arrange (see PUREE). Put purde (see with with fairly thick thick Mushroom purée Put aa (see SAUCE) around border border of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the chops. Lamb Lamb cbops chops Paul Paul Mounet Mounet CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAu PAUL IAUL cdreI,nrrrs D'AGNEAU MOUNET goose fat. MoUNET -- Fry 6 6 chops in goose fat. Arrange them in a crown, hpl'rt .. "h<>n,>t1 cro0tons. alternating altemating with rows of fried fried heart-shaped Put into into the the pan 22 tablespoons (3 tab,lesIPOc)fls) tablespoons) Bayonne ham drained, dried, and finely which has ham which has been blanched, drained, shredded. When the ham is is lightly lightly browned the ham shredded. When browned add 2 tablecdpes or caps, spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) shredded cèpes or mushroom caps, and saut6lightly. Add 2 c10ves cloves of garlic, also finely chopped. chopped. ($ pint, vinegar, add Dilute with 1I tablespoon wine wine vinegar, add 22 dl. (t U CE). Demi-glace sauce (see SA scant cup) tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace SAUCE). Cook for 5 minutes. Pour over over the chops. papillotes. CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU EN Lamb chops en papillotes. cOrsr,rrrEs D'AGNEAU EN pApILLorEs described in recipe for for Veal Veal in the the recipe - Prepare asas described chops en papillote (see VEAL). VEAL).

538

LAMB LAMB in in a a ring ring on on a a layer layer of of Potatoes Potatoes d à la la

Fricass6e Fricassée of of lamb. 18mb. rnrclssm FRICASsÉE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - This is the same same as the second recipe for Blanquette of larnb above. above. Lamb's Lamb's head à I'6cossaisc. rBre o'lcNEAU A, À I'fcossnsn L'ÉCOSSAISE -

sarladalse sarladaise (see (see POPO-

TATOES). T ATOES). Pour Pour around around the the potatoes several several tablespoons tablespoons of of Pirigueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE).

i

fJO"""'biJY

Lamb chops soubise. CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU souBrsE SOUBISE -- Grill soubise. c6rnlnrrrs or fry the chops. Arrange in a crown. Garnish orfrythe Gamish with with aa fairly fairly tlick thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Lamb Lamb chops cbops Talleyrand. TaUe'VI'and. c6rsrnrrEs CÔTELETTES D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU TALLEvTALLEYRAND Sauté the chops in in butter. butter. Arrange in in a crown. crown. RAND - Saute Garnish Gamish the the middle of the the dish dish with with aa fairly thick Onion Onion soubise (see PUREE). Pour Pour over over the the chops chops the followirrg following soubise (see sauce: sauce : In In the the butter butter left left over over in in the the pan, pan, lightly lightly fry diced mushmushrooms rooms and and diced diced truffes. truffies. Dilute Dilute with with sherry sherry and and add thick thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the chops. chops. Lamb Lamb chopo chops à la la Toulouse. Toulouse. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES o'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À L.q. LA ToulousEglazn in TOULOUSE - Braise Braise the the chops chops and glaze in the the oven. oyen. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock until until thick thick and and add add to to it it 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Madeira. Madeira. Arrange the the chops chops in in aa slightly slightly raised raised puff puff pastry pastry shell shell (or in in aa circle on on cro0tons croûtons fried fried in in butter) butter) and and garnish garnish them, them, in in the Ragoût d à la toulousaine toulousaine (see (see RAGOOT). RAGOÛT). the centre, centre, with Ragorfrt Sprinkle Sprinkle the the chops chops with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Put Put paper paper frills frills on end bones. bones. end Lamb Lamb chops chops à la la turque. turque. cdrnr,rrrrs CÔTELETTES o'.c,cNEeu D'AGNEAU A À LA, LA TUReUE TURQUE -- Fry Fry the the chops chops in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in aa circle circle on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of the the dish dish with Rice Rice pilaf pilaf d à la turEte turque (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan juices juices with stock and Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se SAUCE), SAUCE), add aa pounded pounded clove c10ve of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over the chops. chops. and Lamb chops chops Villeroi. Villeroi. c6rersrrns CÔTELETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU vrLLERor VILLEROI Lamb See MUTTON, MUTTON, Mutton Multon chops chops dà h la Villeroi. Villeroi. See Crépinettes of of lamb. 18mb. cnfpNnrrss CRÉPINETTES n'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Prepare Prepare like like Cr6pinettes r:n;nit:IPltp~ of ofpork pork (see (see PORK) PORK) using using lamb lamb salpicon salpicon (q.v.). (q.v.). Cripinettes of lamb lamb il la la p6rigourdine. périgourdine. cn6pNrrrss CRÉPINETTES Cr6pinettes of D'AGNEAU A À le LA pfnrcouRDrNE PÉRIGOURDINE - Flatten Flatten and and trim trim 6 6 lamb lamb D'AGNEAU cutlets, season season with with salt and and pepper, pepper, and braise. braise. Allow to cutlets, cool in in the the pan juices. juices. cool Prepare 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) oz.) finely finely pounded pounded Pork forcemeat (see Prepare FORCEMEATS), add add to to it it 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) foie gras, and 2 FORCEMEATS), Mix well. weIl. diced truffies. truffies. Mix diced Drain the the chops and and dry them off. Coat on both sides Drain with aa layer layer of of the above above forcemeat. toncenl1eat. Wrap each cutlet in a with thin piece piece of of pig's pig's caul caul or or salt salt pork, pork, making sure that that it it is is thin entirely closed. closed. entirely Brush the the cripinetfes crépinettes with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadbreadBrush crumbs, and and cook cook under under aa low low flame. fiame. crumbs, Lamb curry. curry. CARI CARl D'AcNEic,u D'AGNEAU - Follow Follow directions directions for Lamb Curried mutton mutton (see (see MUTTON), MUTION), reducing reducing the the cooking cooking time time Curried slightly to to allow allow for for the the tenderness tende mess of of the the meat. meat. slightly Double of of lamb. lamb. EoUBLE DOUBLE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -- This This is is aa joint joint comcomDouble prising the the two two legs of of the the animal. animal. You Vou can can either either roast roast or or prising pot-roast it. it. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables and and serve serve with with its own pot-roast gravy, clear c1ear or or thickened, thickened, depending on on vegetable vegetable chosen. chosen. ryavy, Cook for for l8 18 to to 20 20 minutes minutes per 500 g. g. (l (lIb.) 18 minutes minutes lb.) plus l8 Cook at 200"C. 200°C. (400"F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark 6). at AlI the the garnishes recommended for for the the baron baron are are suitable suitable All for aa double of of lamb. lamb. for Filets mignons mignons of of lamb. lamb. FTLETS FILETS MIcNoNs MIGNONS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- Small Fileb pieces of of lean lean meat meat found found on the the bone bone of the the saddle. saddle. In pieces general, these these small small fillets fillets are are left left with with the the big big fillets fiUets of of the the general, saddle when when the the saddle saddle is is boned, boned, but but they they can can also be be prepresaddle pared separately. (See MUTTON, Filets Filets mignons of mutton.) pared Fillets of of lanb (U.S. loin of lanb). FrLErs D'acNEAU - Half Fillets of the the saddle, saddle, boned, rolled rolled and and secured secured with with string. It can can of be roasted, roasted, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or braised. braised. be Ali methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for for loin loin or or shoulder shoulder of All lamb are are applicable. applicable. lamb

Remove separately in Remove the the brains, brains, which which are are cooked cooked separately cour t-bouil lon (q.v.). court-bouillon Cook onions Cook the the 22 halves halves of of the head head in in water water witl with carrots, on ions and celery celery as as a pot-au-feu pot-au-feu (q.v.). (q.v.). (Cooking time time about 2

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hours.) hours.) Drain the head, put it in an ovenproof dish, brush with melted butter and and put put in a very hot hot oven. oyen. Serve with with a white white sauce to which I1 tablespoon chopped and and blanched blanched sage and the diced diced brains have been added. added. Stuffd Stuffed lamb's head head Ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. tErE TÊTE o'^r,cNEq,u D'AGNEAU rencrs FARcœ A À L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAISE - Scald Scald the lamb's head and remove all ail bones. Fill FiU itit with a stuffing dà l'anglaise, made made of chopped suet and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, well seasoned seasoned and and mixed mixed with forcemeat made made from minced lamb's lamb's liver Iiver and bacon. bacon. Wrap the lamb's Jamb's head in a napkin and secure both ends with string. Brown Brown chopped bacon rinds, carrots and onions in butter in aa braising braising pan. Put in the head. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a clove. clove. Braise Braise for 30 minutes. Serve with Pascaline Pascaline sauce prepared as as follows: Toss Toss I1 chopped onion in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter, and moisten with 2 dl. ($ (t pint, scant scant cup) white wine. butter, Boil down and add 3 dl. (+ (t pint, pi nt, lf It cups) white sauce. Bring bind with wi th 2 egg egg yolks and and add add 1 tablespoon to the boil, bind chopped, blanched blanched parsley, parsley, a dash of oflemonjuice pin ch lemon juice and a pinch chopped, of cayenne pepper. ofcayenne Lamb's kidney - See See OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. Lamb's GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - The best way to prepare Leg of lamb. crcor [eg of of lamb lamb is is to roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. This joint, when leg This jointo also be be boiled, boiled, according to the English English method. itit isis big, can also Roast, pot-roast pot-roast or boiled leg of lamb can be served with Roast, ail the garnishes gamishes recommended for for leg, leg, baron, double double or all shoulder of of mutton. shoulder see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average For cooking time see cooking times for roasts. roasted or potThe leg of baby or milk-fed lamb is either roasted roasted. roasted. of lamb lamb is served garnished garnished with watercress watercress and Roast leg of quarters quarters of of lemon and and accompanied by its own gravy. It can also be be served, as is customary customary in England, with Mint sauce also (see SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Leg of of lamb A il I'anglaise. l'anglaise. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU A À r'.lucI.AlsE L'ANGLAISELeg Season a leg of lamb, trim and bone it almost completely. Wrap it in a a napkin, lightly buttered buttered and and sprinkled Wrap sprinkled with fiour. Secure Secure with string. flour. 2 nll
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Singe and and carefully carefully clean clean the lamb's lamb's head. Cut in two lengthwise. wise. Leave Leave to soak soak thoroughly thoroughly in cold water.

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LAMB rooms, lightly tossed in in oil. oil. Season. Cook in a slow oven. When the leg and garnish sprinkle with Noisette gamish are cooked, sprinkle butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) in which 4 table(see BUTTER, spoons (* (t cup) cup) breadcrumbs with with 1 tablespoon chopped parsley and garlic garlic have been fried. Leg Leg of of lamb lamb à la la boulangdre. boulangère. crcor GIGOT o'.e,cNslu D'AGNEAU A À rA, LA sourA,I.IciRE BOULANGÈRE - Prepare like Shoulder Shoulder of mutton d à la la boulangdre angère (see MUTTON). lsmb with various Braised Braised teg leg of oflamb varions garnishes. clcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU BRAIsf BRAISÉ - Prepare like Braised shoulder shoulder of of lamb lamb (see below), and serve with the usual garnishes gamishes suitable for braised, potroasted or lamb. roasted or roast mutton or lamb en cheweuil. Leg of oflamb chevreuil. crcor GIGOT D'AGNEAU EN cHEvREUTL CHEVREUILPrepare, using a leg of lamb, as as described described in the recipe for Leg mutton m ofmutton en chevreuil chevreuil (see MUTTON). Leg of Parslied leg of lamb. crcor GIGOT D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU psRs[Lf PERSILLÉ - Leg of ordinary or milk-fed lamb, cooked in the oven or on a spit. When When cooked, coat it with fresh breadcrumbs mixed with chopped cbopped parsley. Press well weil to to make this this mixture adhere adhere evenly joint and put put the leg leg back back in the oven until evenly all ail over over the the joint the surface turns tums golden. Arrange on a a long dish, garnish with witb watercress watercress and lemons cut eut in half. Serve with its own gravy. In the south-east of France chopped chopped garlic garlic is added to the tbe south-east of parsley parsley and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixture. mixture. Pot-roasted leg lamb with with various garnishes. garnishes. clcor GIGOT leg of lamb D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU poBI-6PO~LÉ - Leg Leg of of lamb lamb trimmed trimmed and pot-roasted in a casserole in butter butter or other other fat, fat, but but without adding adding any casserole in liquid. liquid. When the leg is cooked, put put it on a long dish and surround surround leg is

garnish desired garnishes recommended for it with the gamish desired (all (ail garnishes baron, double, or loin of lamb). Pour over it the pan juices juices mixed with white wine and thickened brown brown stock. lamb. clcor Roast oflamb. GIGOT D'AGNEAU n6n RÔTI -- Trim the leg at Roast leg of around the knuckle knuckle and the knuckle knuckle end, end, loosen the flesh fiesh around remove of the bone. Tie this part of of the leg remove most of leg with string. cooking times see CULICook on a spit or in the oven. For cooking Cook NARY NARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking timesfor roasts. garnish with Arrange with a bunch of Arrange the tbe leg on a long dish and garnish (keeping a little watercress. Serve Serve with the diluted diluted pan juices (keeping ]jttle fat in them), halves oflemons, of lemons, and SAUCE). and Mint sauce (see (see SAUCE). Lamb's 1iver. liver. ron FOIE D'AGNEAU - This is generally used with the rest of the lamb's pluck to prepare a special dish called fressure. All Ali recipes for calfs liver can also be used for lamb's liver (see OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). lamb is Loin of lamb. cmnf CARRÉ D'AGNEAU - Loin of lamb is often roasted. All roasted. Ali garnishes garnishes recommended recommended for baron or double of lamb are applicable to this cut. are served with their eut. They are own juices, clear or thickened, depending on on the nature of also served with Mint the the garnish. garnish. They They are are also served with MinI sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook lb.) plus 15 l5 minutes Cook for l5 15 to 20 minutes minutes per per 500 g. (l (lIb.) at 200'C. 200°C. (400'F., (400°F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 6). Baby or milk-fed lamb loins, which are not very big, big, are usually usually pot-roasted in butter butter or grilled. grilled. Loin lamb (U.S.) Loin of oflamb (V.S.) --See See Fillets Fillets of of larnb. lamb. Loin of lamb ul lamb il à la la Beauharnais. Beauharnais. cennf CARRÉ o'.l,cNnau D'AGNEAU A À LA BEAUHARNATS Trim the the loin, season, brush brush with with melted melted BEAUHARNAIS - Trim butter butter and grill or broil broil under under a gentle gentle heat. When When itit is nearly

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LAMB LAMB juices with add white wine, wine, add with white on a on a dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan JWces with thickened veal veal stock, and pour over the loin. Sprinkle with parsley. chopped parsley. garnishes. CARRÉ c.mnf with varions various gamishes. of lamb Pot-roasted loin loin of lamb with pot-roast in and pot-roast loin of of lamb lamb and D'AcNEAU Trim aa loin D'AGNEAU poErf POÊLÉ - Trim chosen as add the the vegetables cooked, add butter. Wh en half cooked, vegetables chosen butter. When garnish and and finish cooking cooking together. with garnish. and surround loin in dish and surround with Arrange the the loin in aa dish white wine, blend blend in in thlck(~m:d thickened with white Dilute the pan juices with brown stock, and pour over the meat. and garseparately, and be cooked separately, The pot-roasted loin may be garnishes recommended for recommended for the gamishes nished with one or other of the baron or double of lamb. garnishes can added to can be to the the loin during be added The following gamishes (hearts or quarters), diced diced aubergines aubergines cooking: artichokes (hearts in previously tossed in butter or oil, new carrots half-cooked in nrp,vu'I1l<:llv of fied in oil or butter, various types of butter and water, cipes fried large dice, cut in in large marrows cut sprouts, marrows mushrooms, Brussels sprouts, glazed turnips, glazed half-braised Chinese artichokes, half-cooked turnips, in salsify cooked in diced or shredded potatoes, salsify onions, small on ions, diced and tossed in butter. tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.), drained and garnished with with the the lamb can also be loin of lamb can also be gamished Pot-roasted loin or prepared in various ways, pur6es of of fresh or following: pasta prepared of tomatoes, tomatoes, or risotto, fondte of rice pilaf or dried vegetables, rice dried soubise, etc. etc. soubise, D'AcNEAU -- Another lamb. MÉDAILLONS ufomroNs D'AGNEAU Medallions Meddlions of of lamb. Lanb noisettes (see below). name for Lamb D'AGNEAU - Name lamb. MIGNONNETTES MIGNoNNETTES D'AGNEAU MignoruJettes Mignonnettes of lamb. l-amb noisettes noisettes (see below). for Lamb often used used for as BeeJ Beef hash hash D'IcNEAU -- Prepare Prepare as n,c,cHls D'AGNEAU Minced Minced lamb. lamb. HACHIS (see HASH). with Prepared with D'.a,cNEAU -- Prepared MoLISSAKA D'AGNEAU Lamb Lamb moussaka. MOUSSAKA (see Mutton moussaka moussaka (see aubergines like like Mutton lamb and and aubergines minced minced lamb

cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs and finish cooking cooking under under the grill grill or broiler to brown brown the surface. surface. Put the the meat meat on a a long dish, dish, garnish at each each end end with Noisette potatoes (see POTATOES) and with little artichoke artichoke hearts hearts boiled in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), saut6ed sautéed in butter, and filled SAUCE) fil1ed with Beanharnais Beauharnais sauce sauce (Bdarnaise sauce (see SA UCE) fini shed offwith offwith a puree of of tarragon). tarragon). Surround the loin loin with finished a border border of of buttered Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Ioin Loin of lamb lamb à la bonne femme. cmn6 CARRÉ D'acunlu D'AGNEAU A À LA BoNNE loin and BONNE FEMME FEMME - Trim Trim the the loin and brown brown in in butter butter in in a cocotte (earthenware fireproof 12 lightly fireproof casserole). casserole). Add Add 12 (9 oz.,l{ g. (9 fried oz., I~ cups) tiny potato fried bacon rashers and 250 g. balls. Season, Season, sprinkle with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) balls. butter, cook in a slow oyen, oven, and serve in the cocotte. Loin of of lamb lamb à la bordelaise. CARRÉ D'AGNEAU À LA Inin la bordelaise. cARRf o'^lcNeeu A LA, BORDELAISE - Pare and trim the loin and brown BoRDELATSE brown it lightly in a and oil in equal proportions in aa cocotte mixture of butter and (q.v.). Add fried in oil, and potatoes potatoes cut down to look Add cèpes cipes fried olives. Season, and and cook cook in like small small olives. in aa slow slow oyen. oven. Add mixed with several tablespoons of brown stock several tablespoons of brown with tomato stock mixed puree purée and flavoured with a crushed c10ve clove of garlic. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. Serve in in the cocotte. Loin of lamb à la la boulanglre. cARRÉ Inin o'^lcNr.lu ÀA LA cARRE D'AGNEAU un BOULANGÈRE - Trim the loin. Prepare in an earthenware sourfi.IciRE earthenware dish as Shoulder oJ of lamb àd la boulangire (see below). u Shoulder maraîchère. CARRÉ Loin Loin of of lamb lanb in a cocotte cARRf D'AGNEAU cocotte ài la msraichere. EN COCOTTE A LA cocorrE À r,l MARAÏCHÈRE rrrlndcr$nr -- Trim the loin and brown it in 24 small dish. Put into the the cocotte 24 butter in an earthenware dish. (5 oz.) potatoes tossed ify cooked in butter, 150 g. (5 oz.) sais salsify cooked in butter, 150 tossed in court-bouillon (q.v.) and and tossed in butter, and 24 24 Brussels butter, and sprouts lightly blanched and tossed tossed in butter. Finish cooking cooking everything together. Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons together. Add (5 tablespoons) (5 in the the cocotte. stock. Serve in tablespoons) thickened brown stock. Grilled Trim the Grilld loin loin of lamb. CARRÉ cmnr D'AGNEAU GRILLÉ cntrrf -- Trim loin. Make a few few surface incisions in the skin, season, season, brush with melted butter butter and grill (or broil) under a low flame until both sides sides are golden. Arrange garnish with watercress and and serve Arrange on aa long dish, dish, gamish serve (see BUTTER, Maître d'hôtel with with half-melted d'hdtel butter half-melted Maitre butter (see Compound butters\. o'lcNslu ÀA LA Ln cmnf D'AGNEAU Loin of lamb à la languedocienne. cARRÉ LANGUEDOCIENNE lightly in in lamb and and brown brown itit Iightly LANGT,JEDocTENNE -- Trim the the lamb butter (or (or goose fat) dish. Add Add 22 small small an earthenware dish. fat) in in an onions tossed in ham, with 12 small pieces of smoked ham, in butter with 6 blanched garlic cloves and 200 g. (7 oz.) small white c?pes oz.) small 200 g. or button mushrooms fried in aa slow Season. Cook Cook in fried in in oil. oil. Season. oyen, and chopped parsley and Sprinkle with chopped oven, basting frequently. Sprinkle serve rvas cooked. cooked. in the dish in which it was serve in Loin of lamb à la D'AcNEAU À A LA Ntgonr la nigoise. cARRÉ cmnf D'AGNEAU Trim aa loin of lamb and brown an eal~thlemlVal'e earthenware in an in butter butter in brown in cocotte (or aa baby peeled, (q.v.). Add marrow) peeled, zucchini (or baby marrow) Add zucchini cocotte (q.v.). diced, and tossed cut tomato cut seeded tomato butter;aa large peeled, seeded tossed in butter; potatoes, into pieces and and about about 20 20 small new potatoes, oil; and and fried fried in oil; cut to aa uniform size. in aa and pepper. Cook Cook in salt and size. Season with salt slow in the the with chopped chopped parsley. Serve in oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with slow oyen. cocotte. Loin NoUILLES o'lcNEAU AUX AUx NOUILLESwith noodles. noodles. cARRÉ cmnf D'AGNEAU Lnin oflamb of lamb widl 'rna (q.v.). Trim a cocotte cocotte (q.v.). and cook cook itit in butter in Trim the loin of of lamb and When ove it from Add from the cocotte. Add remove the cocotte. nearly cooked, cooked, rem When nearly noodles, and tossed water, drained, drained, and tossed in salted salted water, noodles, freshly freshly boiled in in (see BUTTER, butters), to to the the BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), rn Noisette Noisette butter butter (see cocotte. in the the together in Finish cooking cooking together Put the loin back. back. Finish cocotte. Put the loin oyen. brown few tablespoons of thickened thickened brown with aa few oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with tablespoons of stock. stock. Loin D'AGNEAU PARMENTIER PARMENTIER lamb Parmentier. clnnf D'AGNEAU Loin of of lamb Parmentier. CARRÉ Brown pan 250 g. 250 g. lamb in Put in in aa pan loin of in butter. butter. Put of lamb Brown aa trimmed trimmed loin (9 cups) (9 oz., potatoes. Season with and sprinkle sprinkle with Season and cups) diced diced potatoes. oz., melted oven. Place Place in aa slow slow oyen. cooking together together in melted butter. Finish Finish cooking

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MUTTON). pieces of of D'AGNEAU -- Delicate Delicate pieces NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb noisettes. NOISEITES They are are trimmed loin of of lamb. lamb. They trimmed rib or or loin meat meat taken from the the rib taken from varies between Their weight varies into round, thick fiUets. fillets. Their round, rather thick (3 and g. (3 and4 oz.). 75 4 oz.). and 100 100 g. 75 and D'AGNEAU SAUTÉES NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU lamb. NOISETTES Sautéed of lamb. slurfrs -Saut6ed noisettes of and sauté Season and saut6 Trim and flatten Trim the flatten them them lightly. Season the noisettes and and oil. of butter oil. oil, or or aa mixture of butter and briskly in in clarified butter, oil, Gamish. Garnish. fried on croûtons crofitons fried served on Sautéed noisettes are are sometimes sometimes served Saut6ed noisettes as foundations. foundations. in in butter or or on on various garnishes as recipes found in in the will be the recipes Garnishes and sauces them will be found Garnishes and sauces for them given all those those given these recipes, ail which which follow. follow. In In addition addition to to these well as as weil as those those elsewhere or médaillons midaillons of beef, as for tournedos tournedos or elsewhere for to applied to mutton cutlets, cutlets, can can be be applied indicated for lamb lamb or or mutton indicated for noisettes. noisettes. in cooking most commonly used in The and gravies most commonly used The stocks stocks and also be made of Stock can can also be made are veal, chicken or or beef. beef. Stock on veal, are based based on lamb and bones. lamb and and mutton bones. mutton trim!nÏngs trimmings and n'Actselu ÀA NoISETTES D'AGNEAU Lamb I'alg6rienne. NOISETTES Lamb noisettes noisettes ài l'algérieruJe. given for for in the recipe given L'ALGÉRIENNE as described described in the recipe Proceed as r.'lr,cfnIruxn - Proceed (see BEEF). Tournedos BEEF). Tournedos àd l'algérienne l'algtrienne (see NoISETTBS D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU Lamb Armenonville. NOISEITES Lamb noisettes noisettes Armenonville. arrange on ARMENONVILLE noisettes in in butter, on aa ARMENoNvInT -- Sauté Saute the the noisettes butter, arrange (see POTATOES), garnish with with POTATOES), gamish foundation foundation of of Anna Anrw potatoes (see morels combs and kidneys. Serve Serve with with aa and kidneys. and cocks' morels in in cream cocks'combs cream and juices, mixed white wine wine and and sauce mixed with with white made of of the the pan juices, sauce made thickened veal stock. thickened veal Lamb D'AGNEAU BÉATRl.X sflrRlx -NoIsETTEs D'AGNEAU Lamb noisettes noisettes Béatrix. B6atrix. NOISETTES Sauté and place on on fried fried croûtons. crofitons. noisettes in in butter butter and Saut6 the the noisettes in butter, Garnish fried in butter, morels or or other other mushrooms fried Garnish with with morels very in butter, small quarters of cooked in butter, small very small of artichokes artichokes cooked small quarters potatoes in with aa glazed glazed carrots in butter. Serve with butter. Serve and new new potatoes carrots and juices mixed pan juices and sauce with sherry mixed with sherry and made from from the sauce made the pan thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock.

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LAMB each noisette noisette 1I tablespoon Tomato fon&te fondue (see FONDUE). made from sauce made from the Serve with a a sauce the pan juices diluted with white wine and tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal stock. Lamb noisettes noisettes Rivoli. Rivoli. NoIsETTES D'AGNEAU RJvoLI Lamb NOISETTES D'AGNEAU Saute the noisettes in butter, arrange on Anna Sauté Anna potatoes (see POTATOES), and sauoe made made from the pan POTATOES), and serve with with aa sauce juices Madeira and and Demi-glace sauce (*e juices mixed mixed with with Madeira Demi-glace sauce SAUCE) SA U CE) with wi th trufles truffies added to it. i t. These can be served in a cocotte (q.v.). Lamb noisettes NorsETTEs D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU Lamb noisettes Saint-Germain. Saint-Germain. NOISETTES SAINT-cERMAIN -- Proceed SAINT-GERMAIN Proceed as as described in the the recipe recipe for described in Tournedos Saint-Germain Saint-Germafu (see BEEF). A t.e. noisettes Ià la Lamb noisettes la turque. turque. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'l,cNEeu D'AGNEAU À LA Lamb TUReUE -- Sauté Saut6 the noisettes TURQUE noisettes in butter, garnish with Rice pikf Ia turque (see PILAF) and aubergines aubergines cut cut in large dice pilaf àd la and with aa sauce and fried fried in in oil. Serve from the pan Serve with sauce made from juices diluted with tomato-flavoured tomato-fiavoured veal veaJ stock. Lamb noisettes Iil la Valenciennes. Valenciennes. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU A VALENCIENNES - Sauté Saut6 the noisettes in butter LA VALENCIENNES butter and put each la Valenciennes (see on little mound mound of rice àd la (see GARon aa little of rice NISHES). NISHES). Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from from the the pan pan juices with white wine wine and diluted with and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock, with a pounded clove of garlic added to it. with vegetables. vegetables. NoIsETrEs NOISETTES Lamb noisettes noisettes garnished with noisettes in D'AcNEAU GARNTEs lux LÉGUMES lEcurr,rrs Saut6 the the noisettes D'AGNEAU GARNIES AUX - Sauté garnish with butter or them, gamish with the the vegetables vegetables recombutter or grill them, mended. mended. Sprinkle the the saut€ed sautéed noisettes very lightly with a sauce made from the pan juices, diluted diluted and boiled down, or with a thickened Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). The following vegetables The vegetables are used for for garnishingnoisettes: garnishing noisettes: quartered hearts of artichokes, sautéed fried aubergines, aubergines, saut6ed or fried ftied cdpes and fried and other mushrooms, braised endive, kidney kidney beans in butter, sautéed cucumbers cut cut into Înto beans saut6ed Brussels sprouts, cucumbers uniform pieces and cooked in butter, stewed Chinese arti(okra), French gumbos (okra), chokes, French beans chokes, stewed beans in in butter, butter, stewed gumbos in butter or d à la frangaise, française, asparagus asparagus braised lettuce, peas in tips in butter, etc. The noisettes The noisettes can also also be be garnished with with puree purée of fresh vegetables, such as chicory spinach. chicory or spinach. Pascaline of lamb. pAscALrNE PASCALINE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Plumerey, who Pascaline continued continued Car0me's Carême's work, work, gives a a recipe for for this this rather rather complicated coml=.lic.at(:d dish. dish. He says that he wrote wrote it from the dictation of the old controller controller of of the Prince de Conti's household, but of he himself himself never never tried it out. 'Scald perfectly perfectly 4 lambs' heads and put them to soak, as brains and 4 tongues. Take 3 lambs' weil as as the the 4 sets of brains well mince with fresh bacon, bacon, fines fines herbes, salt, pepper livers, and mince lambs' feet with spi ces, to make make into forcemeat. Cook 12 12lambs' and spices, the tongues tongues in a court-bouillon. court-bouillon. 'Cook 'Cook the the brains brains separately in in a a white white court-bouillon. Wh en the tongues ton gues and brains are are cooked, cut cut them them into into large When dice with mushrooms, and and shape them into 12 croquettes. 'Now 'Now take the the 4 blanched heads of lamb and fill with the of them them several forcemeat. Sew them up securely. Put on top of slices of oflemon. Coyer with bacon bacon and cook cook them in a covered covered lemon. Cover slices casserole on a bed ofvegetables. of vegetables. 'Have 'Have a dozen lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads ready. ready. Keep the doz.en larded lambs' a smooth smooth sauce (Velouté -- se see SAUCE), SAUCE), throats. Prepare a sauce (Veloutd into which you have put 2 2 handfuls of mushrooms. Boil into down and bind with 6 egg yolks. Take the heads out of the casserole, drain, drain, remove thread, thread, arrange arrange on on a a long long dish, dish, casserole, nose part facing outwards. outwards. Cut each foot in two and put 33 halves halves between between each each head. head. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over and and put around them them 12 12 fried fried croquettes, 12 larded larded lambs' lambs' sweetbreads and and 12 12 crofitons croûtons of bread cut to look like cocks' combs, fried in butter. Add the lambs' throats and and mushrooms to the the sauce sauce and and cover cover the heads with with it. Alexandre Dumas Dumas pdre, père, who who wrote wrote a a gastronomical gastronomical Alexandre

Lamb noisettes Beauharnais. Beauharnais. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU BEAUBEAUnoisettes in Saut6 the the noisettes on fried in butter. butter. Place Place on - Sauté crottons. Garnish with very small artichoke artichoke hearts filled Garnish with croûtons. very small with with thick thick Bdarnahe Béarnaise sauce (see (see SAUCE) with with aa puree purée of tarragon added and tiny tiny potato balls. with a added to to it, it, and balls. Serve with sauce made from from the pan juices mixed mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) with chopped trufres truffies added to it. iL Lamb noisettes Carignan. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU CARTcNAN CARIGNANSaut6 Sauté the noisettes in butter and place on a a foundation of Anru Anna potatoes potatoes (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). Garnish Garnish with very small quarters of artichokes cooked in butter, and asparagus asparagus tips dressed dressed with butter. Put between the the noisettes noisettes very small small 'eggs' made made of of Duchess potato mixture (see POTATO), dipped in egg and breadcrumbs, egg and pur6e of fried, hollowed holllO\iVed out and filled with aa purée of foie gras with truffies. Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices mixed with port and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). ""rl,U'~JL,'. Lsmb Lamb noisettes chasseur. cbasseur. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU cHAssEUR CHASSEUR Saut6 noisettesina Sauté the noisettes in a mixture mixture of of butter butter and oil. Serve Serve with a sauce made from the pan pan juices mixed with Chasseur sauce sauce HARNAIS HARNAIS -

(see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Alternatively Alternatively one can remove the noisettes as seon soon as they are are cooked cooked and and put put into into the the same same pan pan (for (for 8 8 noisettes)

125 and I1 teaspoon 125 g. (4 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) chopped mushrooms and teaspoon chopped shallots. Dilute Dilute with white wine and moisten with veal stock and a little SAUCE). httle Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noilsettes noisettes Cussy. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU cussy CUSSY - Saut6 Sauté, the noisettes the noisettes in in butter butter and and arrange on on fried fried cro0tons. croûtons, Garnish Gamish with little Httle artichoke hearts filled with mushroom mushroom puree purée and sprinkled sprinkled with breadcrumbs. Serve with a sauce sauce made from the juices mixed with Madeira and Demi-glace sauce SAUCE). sauce (see (see >J""."'-JL1. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes Duroc" NoIsETrEs NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU DtrRoc DUROC - Proceed as for Lamb noisettes small noisettes chasseur. chasseur. Garnish Garnish witl with very smal! potato potato balls balls fried in butter. Sprinkle with chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. Lanb Lamb nofuettes noisettes à I'italienne. NorsETTBs NOISETTES D'AcNBAU D'AGNEAU A À L'ITALENM the noisettes in oil. L'n ALIENNE - Saut6 Sauté the oil. Arrange on on fried cro0tons croûtons and put on each noisette noisette a small smaU slice of lean ham fried fried in oil. oil. Serve with a a sauoe sauce made from from the the pan juices mixed with ltaliut Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb Saut6 Lamb noisettes Melba. Melba. NorsETTEs NOISETTES D'AGNEAU MBLBA MELBA - Sauté ttre the noisettes noisettes in butter, arrange on on fried cro0tons, croûtons, garnish with braised lettuce hearts, or with small smaU tomatoes stuffed with a mixture of of chicken, truffies and mushrooms, bound bound with with Veloutd Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE). Brown Brown in in the the oven oyen or under un der a grill. Serve with a sau@ sauce made from the pan juices mixed with Madeira Madeira and and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU MoNTMONTLamb noisettes Montpensier. NoIsETTEs PENSIER PENSIER - Saute Sauté the noisettes in in butter, butter, arrange on on fried the noisettes crofftons, croûtons, and and garnish with coarsely shredded shredded trufres and asparagus asparagus tips tips both fried fried in in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with a a sauce sauce made from the pan juices juices mixed with Madeira and and Demighce SAUCE). glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Lamb noisettes Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEi NOISETTES D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU NrcrrETTE NICHETTE Lamb Grill the noisettes noisettes and put each on a cake made of Duchess potato (see (see POTATOES) cooked in the the oven until golden. Garnish Gamish with cocks'combs cocks' combs and kidneys. Put a grilled grilled mushroom room filled with grated horseradish on top of of each noisette. noisette. Serve Serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Lamb noisettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise I. 1. Norsrrrrs NOISETTES D'aclrslu D'AGNEAU A À r,A LA NtgoIsE NIÇOISE - Saut6 Sauté the noisettes noisettes in oil and garnish dà la nigoise niçoise (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Serve with a sauce made from the pan juices juices diluted with white wine and and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured veal veal stock. Lamb Lamb nolsettes noisettes à la nigoise niçoise II. Il. NorserrEs NOISETTES p',r.cNreu D'AGNEAU A À la LA NIgoIsE NIÇOISESauté the noisettes noisettes in oil oil and garnish gamish with with small small new - Saut6 potatoes tossed tossed in butter, butter, and and French beans beans in butter. butter. Put Put on

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542

LAMB LAMB

(3t

pieces. Brown in butter l| kg. (3* lb.) boned lamb into pieces. Cut It Season. with a carrot and an onion cut in quarters. Season. and put into a Remove the lamb with aa perforated spoon and Remove the recipe chosen. saut6 pan with the garnish indicated in the sauté juices with 22 dl. pint, scant cup) cup) white dt. (~ Dilute the pan juices $ pint, (i recipe, and and add add 44 dl. dl. (,f on recipe, wine, depending on wine or other wine, wine (6 tablepint, scant 2 cups) thickened brown stock and dl. (6 and 1I dl. pur6e. Strain Strain through fine through aa fine cup) tomato purée. spoons, scant scant t+ cup) spoons, and pour over the the lamb. strainer and (q.v,) and in the and finish cooking in the oven Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.) for 25 minutes with a lid on the pan. L'ANcIENNE o'lcNElu ÀA L'ANCIENNElamb I l'ancienne. I'ancienne. SAUTÉ sAur6 D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lambà Sautéed pieces and in butter. Add Add and sauté Bone and saut6 in and cut the lamb into pieces Bone half and half blanched and 125 g. (4 oz.) lambs' sweetbreads (soaked, blanched (8 oz.) g. (8 lightly 225 g. oz.) small in butter), small mushrooms lightly cooked in butter), 225 (4 oz.) cocks' g. (4 combs and and kidneys, kidneys, 125 g. cocks' combs and 125 tossed in butter, and pan with the pan cooked in a white court-bouillon (q.v.). Moisten with pint, Madeira, to which which scant cup) cup) Madeira, juices diluted with 2 dl. (t t, scant $ pin (see SAUCE) (+ pint, and 22 dl. dl. pint, li Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and lf cups) cups) Velouté dl. (1 3 dl. added. have been pint, scant fresh cream cream have been added. cup) thick scant cup) thick fresh (t $ pint, gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. and strain. simmer Season and strain. Leave to sim Season mer gently cro0tons fried fried in in butter. butter. heart-shaped croûtons Garnish with heart-shaped D'AcNEAU AUX At.rx seurE D'AGNEAU lamb with with artichokes. artichokes. SAUTÉ Sautéed SautH lamb (l+ lb.) g. (It lb.) neck neck or 750 g. or ARrrcHAUrs -- Fry Fry in in butter butter or or oil oil 750 ARTICHAUTS pieces. Season in pieces. Season with with salt salt and cut cut in boned and shoulder shoulder of of lamb, boned and cook cook until until done. done. and and pepper and and cut cut in in hearts, blanched blanched and Decorate with artichoke hearts, Decorate with 44 artichoke in butter and fried fried in butter or or oil. oil. large dice, or or sliced sliced and (6 tablespoons, pan juices with 1I dl. scant + cup) cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, scant Dilute the panjuices pint, scant add 22 dl. dl. $ pint, scant cup) cup) thickened thickened down, add white wine, wine, boil boil down, pour over chopped lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped veal veal stock and pour over the the lamb. stock and parsley. AUx D'AGNEAU AUX Sautéed lamb with aubergines. SAUTÉ s.turf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb with aubergines. (3* lb.) and trimmed lamb's kg. (Ji lb.) boned boned and trimmed lamb's AUBERGINES AUBERcINEs -- Cut Cut 1ti kg. pepper and pieces. Season until and cook neck and pepper cook until neck into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and proportions. and oil equal proportions. in equal brown mixture of oil in brown in in aa mixture of butter butter and in aa shallow dish. Put Put on on top top When heap in shallow dish. When the lamb isis cooked, cooked, heap the lamb pieces and peeled, cut 33 small in pieces and fried fried in in oil. oil. Mix Mix cut in aubergines, peeled, small aubergines, juices with veal stock the pan juices brown veal stock with white white wine, wine, thickened thickened brown the pan garlic. pinch of pur6e, flavoured and flavoured with with aa pinch of chopped chopped garlic. and tomato tomato purée, pour over Boil lamb. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the lamb. and pour over the Boil down, down, strain, strain, and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Sautéed agaric. St. George's motels, St. Saut6ed lamb lamb with with cèpes, cipes, morels, George's agaric. SAUTÉ - Cook D'AGNEAUX AUX MoRILLES, MOUSSERONS MoussERoNsCook slur6 D'AGNEAUX lux CÈPES, ciirrs, MORILLES, the recipe for for sautéed sautied /amb lamb with with lamb as as described in the the recipe the lamb described in (8 oz.) g. (8 aubergines, aubergines by 250 g. cipes, aubergines, replacing replacing the by 250 oz.) cèpes, the aubergines morels agarics, fried fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. morels or or St. St. George's George's agarics, Sautéed D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR Prolamb chasseur. chasseur. SAUTÉ SAUTE D'AGNEAU CHASSEUR -- ProSaut6ed lamb ceed given for recipe given for Sautéed Sautied veal veal ceed as as described described in in the the recipe chasseur (see VEAL). chasseur (see VEAL). Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀA LA r,c, CRÈME cRtME -Saut6ed lamb lamb àI la la crème. cr&me. SAUTÉ sAure D'AGNEAU Bone pieces.Season and lamb into into pieces. Season with with salt salt and Bone and and cut cut the the lamb paprika paprika and and fry fry in in butter. butter. juices with Heap pan juices Dilute the with 21 2f dl. Heap on dish. Dilute the pan dl. on aa shallow shallow dish. (scant (scant tI pint, pint, generous generous cup) Boil down down by by one-third, one-third, cup) cream. cream. Boil i cup) add pour over (2 oz., g. (2 and pour lamb. add 50 strain, and over the the lamb. 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter, butter, strain, Sautéed D'AGNEAU AUX ALrxFINES FINES lamb aux herbes. SAUTÉ slur6 D'AGNEAU Sautffi lamb aux fines fines herbes. HERBES in the recipefor for Sautéed HERBEs -- Proceed as described Sautied Proceed as described in the recipe lambs (see below), adding to lambs àd la below), adding to the the sauce sauce 1I tabletablela minute minute (see spoon and 22 tablespoons tablespoons) chopped shallots shallots and tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) spoon chopped of parsley, chervil and tarragon. mixture of chervil and tarragon. of aa mixture of chopped chopped parsley, Sautéed D'AcNEAU ÀAL'INDIENNEI'INDENIIE lamb ài l'indienne. I'indienne. SAUTÉ slurf D'AGNEAU Saut6ed lamb Proceed l'inin the recipe for for Sautéed Sautied veal veal àd l'inProceed as as described described in the recipe dienne (see VEAL) dienne (see VEAL).. Sautéed I'itaHenne. SAUTÉ o'lcNreu ÀAL'ITALIENNEL'ITALIENNE Saut6ed lamb lamb àI l'italienne. slurf D'AGNEAU Proceed lamb àd lala recipefor for Sautéed Proceed as as described in the the recipe Santiedlamb described in minute (see below). pan juices with withwhite wine and and Dilute the whitewine minute (see below). Dilute the panjuices Italian (see SAUCE) Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE)..

dictionary, gives gives for the preparation of Pascaline Pascaline of lamb the the following following recipe, recipe, different different from that that given given by Plumerey: Plumerey: of lamb ià la royale. pAscALINE PASCALINE o'AcNreu D'AGNEAU A À L.l, LA Pascaline of Pascalire RoyALE ROY ALE - 'The custom of serving a lamb whole whole on on Easter Easter until the the time of Louis XVI. Sunday was kept in France until is how how the the dish dish was was prepared: prepared : This is This 'The of a six-month-old six-month-old lamb lamb was boned, the breast breast 'The neck of through and and the the shoulder shoulder bone bone broken broken and bone sawn sawn through bone of the legs were also trussed to to the the breast. breast. The The 2 shank shank bones of trussed sa me manner. broken and and fastened in the same broken 'It was stuffed with a forcemeat of pounded lamb, lamb, yolks hard-boiled eggs, eggs, stale fines chopped fnes of hard-boiled stale breadcrumbs and chopped seasoned with with 4 spices. spices. herbes, and seasoned herbes, fiesh was carefully larded and put to roast before a 'The flesh big fire. It was served whole, as as a separate course, after the a ragoût a green green sauce ragofrt of truffi.es truffies sauce or on on a soup, either with a ham jelly.' cooked in ham Pâté of of lamb lamb tà la perigourdine périgourdine -- See P0t6 PATE. See PÂTÉ. p'r,cNEitu A la languedocienne. ToURTE TOURTE D'AGNEAU À LA pie Ià la Ll Lamb pie LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Puff Puff pastry pastry pie with with a fiJling filling of of smalliamb small lamb LANGUEDocTrNNE noisettes sautéed noisettes saut6ed in butter; salsify cooked in Court-bouillon IX (see COURT-BOUILLON), cut into pieces and tossed tossed in IX(see butter; sliced mushrooms; and blanched olives. olives. Put mushrooms; stoned stoned and these ingredients into a pastryJined pastry-lined dish on a layer of finely finely these (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see pounded Pork forcemeat with a FORCEMEAT). Dot with few dabs of butter. Cover with aa piece of rolled-out pastry, egg and 45 minutes. and bake in the oven oven for for 40 40 or 45 brush with egg Pour into the pie aa few tablespoons of boiled down Demiboiled down glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), fiavoured glace flavoured with Madeira. Lamb pilaf. PILAF like Mutton Mutton pilaf Prepared like rner D'AGNEAU -- Prepared PILAF). (see PILAF). Lamb's pluck -- See AL or V ARIETY MEATS. OFFAL VARIETY See OFF Lamb parts which D'AcNEAU -- The The parts are ragoOt. RAGOÛT which are n^lco0r D'AGNEAU Lamb ragoût. most suitable ribs, neck, shoulder and and are lower ribs, suitable for this dish are breast. breast. Ragoût (A A BLANC nrlxc (À I'anglaise. RAGOÛT RAc,otT D'AGNEAU À Ragofft of lamb à i l'anglaise. L'ANGLAISE) g. pan, in layers, 750 750 g. r',lNcrusr) -- Put Put into into aa pan, in alternate alternate layers, 01 (l+ lb.) pieces and medium-sized sliced lb.) lamb lamb cut in pieces and 33 medium-sized sliced cut in potatoes mixed potatoes onions.. chopped onions mixed with medium-sized chopped with 22 medium-sized Season, gorni (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour in enough water water Season, and add aa bouquet bouquet garni or light fairly briskly with aa light stock to cover the meat. Cook Cook fairly the meat. lid lid on on the pan. Heap in aa deep parsley. and sprinkle chopped parsley. deep dish dish and sprinkle with chopped Ragoût o'lcxeau ÀA LA la bonne RAcofr D'AGNEAU rA, bonne femme. femme. RAGOÛT Ragofit of lamb àI la BONNE g. (l* lb.) lb.) lamb lamb in in clarified clarified fat, fat, BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown 750 750 g. and pinch of and aa pinch sugar. Sprinkle Sprinkle of sugar. and season season with salt, salt, pepper and with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) lightly. flour and and brown brown lightly. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour Moisten with if litre O~ (l$ pints, pints, li lt pints) water, water, add add aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) and garlic. clove of of garlic. and 1 crushed clove I crushed Cook with aa lid on Drain the lamb, for 40 40 minutes. minutes. Drain the lamb, on the the pan for trim, pan. pieces back in the back in and put the the pan. trim, and the pieces Add 500 (18 oz., potato balls and 12 12 small g. (18 cups) small 500 g. o2.,33 cups) balls and small small potato onions pan for lid on for lightly fried in in butter. with aa lid on the the pan onions lightly butter. Cook Cook witb 40 (3 tablespoons) 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 22 tablespoons tablespoons) tomato tomato to 45 tablespoons (3 sauce can he be added. added. sauce can Ali (q.v.) can given for ragofrts given for mutton mutton (q.v.) can he be used used for for All the the ragoûts lamb. lamb. Rib (U.S.) -- See lamb. roast of lamb (U.S.) Loin of of lamb. Rib roast of lamb Se Loin Saddle le of o'.l,cNEeu -- The The sadd lamb can can of lamb, SELLE snLLE D'AGNEAU saddle of lamb Saddle oflamb. be prepared by pot-roasting or like Saddle Saddle be prepared roasting, pot-roasting or braising, braising, like by roasting, of (see MUTTON). garnishes recommended recommended mutton (see All the the garnishes of mutton MUTTON). Ali for for mutton mutton can applied to to it. it. can he be applied The roasted or either roasted or milk-fed lamb lamb isis either The saddle saddle of baby or or milk-fed of baby pot-roasted. le usually pot-roasted. This remains attached attached to to two two This sadd usually remains saddle legs joint known known as as the legs of the animal, animal, which which constitutes constitutes the the joint the of the baron baron of lamb. of lamb. Sautéed D'AcNEAU -- Prepared Prepared from from the Saut6ed lamb. lamb. SAUTÉ s.lur6 D'AGNEAU the same same parts parts of are used for ragoûts. ragofits. of the the animal animal as as are used for


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543 543

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LAMB LAMB Sautéed 18mb ili la minute. slurE SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A À Irc, LA utNurr MINUTE Sautded lamb neck or or shoulder of lamb into inta small small pieces. pieces. Cut a boned neck

Braised Bralsed shoulder shoulder of lamb with various garnishes.

Saut6 Sauté on lively heat in butter or oil. When the pieces are cooked and sufficiently sufficiently browned, put parsley and a dash of them in a dish, sprinkle with chopped parsley lemon lemon juice, juice, and pour over them the pan juices diluted with IJ dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant *1- cup) white white wine and thickened ",rp) veal stock. s,tur6 D'.a.cNEAU 18mb with wlth mushrooms. mllshrooms. SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Sautéed lamb Saut6ed cHAMPIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - As As in the recipe for Sautied Souleed lamb 10mb with wilh cipes, cèpes, rnorels, cultivated mushrooms, morels, St. St. George's agarics, but use cultivated peeled and fried in butter, whole, if they are small, sliced, sliced. if if they are large. (à la la hongroise). hon,gro,ise) sAUTf o'AcNnAU Seutffi lamb with paprika (i AU AU IAIRIKA PAPRIKA (A (À m LA noucnorsn) HONGROISE) - Cut into into pieces kg.

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roll and secure with string. Put Put into ioto a a braising braîsing pan pan finely chopped bacon bacon rinds, rînds, 22 carroLS and and IJ onion, onion, and and fry lightly in butter. butter. Place Place the carrots top. Leave to cook cook with the lid on the shoulder of lamb on top. pan 10 minutes. Moisten Moisten with l{ 11 dl. $ pint, !t cup) white white pan for 10 wine and boil down. Add 2+ dl. (scant (seant I pint, generous generous cup) thickened seant!* cup) thickened brown stock, stock, I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant tomato pur6e, purée, a a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.) and and the the bones bones and tomato of the shoulder. Cover Caver with with a lid and cook cook in trimmed scrap,s scraps of trimmed a moderate oven oyen for I1 to lf Il hours, depending on the size siz.e of the shoulder. Glaze in the the oven, and arrange on a dish. Surround Surround with pan juices juices left over over from the recommended recommended garnish. gamish. Heat the pan the braislng, remove remoVe fat, boil bail down, strain strain ifif necessary neeessary and pour braising, over the the shoulder. sui/able for for braised shoulder shoulder of lamb. 10mb. All Ail the Garnishes suitable garnishes garnishes indicated indicated for for the baron, double, loin and saddle of roast roast or or braised mutton, mutton, and and beans beans or or Bean Beon purie purée d à la PURÉE). bretonne (see PUREE). ........" .. "" ....- of lamb lamb I.à la la catalane catalarK:: or or with with pistachio pista chio nuts. l'lutS. Shoulder ÉPAULE D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU A À r,c. LA clrAr.mre CATALANE (rN (EN rsucHn) P!STACHE) - See See Eplurn Shoulder of ofmulton catalane. MUTTON, Shoulder mutton dà la catalane. 18mb ià la gasconne. fpluru ÉPAULE o'.l,cxsA,u D'AGNEAU A À rA, LA Shoulder of lamb GASCONNE -- Stuff Stuff the boned boned shoulder shoulder with witb a forcemeat forcemeal made made cAscoNNE raw ham ham (fat (fat and and lean), lean), stale stale bread bread (without (without crusts) crusls) of raw in stock stock and and squeezed out, out, chopped chopped onion, onÎon, and soaked in weil choppe
l*

(3* (31 lb.) lb.) boned lower ribs ribs or or shoulder shoulder of lamb. Brown Brown in

butter. butter. As soon saon as the the lamb lamb is well weil browned, browned, add 22 chopped Sprinkle onions. Season Season with salt salt and I1 tablespoon paprika. Sprinkle in 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) flour. flour. Moisten with 2 dl. ($ (! pint, scant seant cup) white white wine. Boil down, and then add 3 dl. (f (t pint, pint, l| Il cups) cups) white stock, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tabJespoons) bouquel garni gami (q.v.). (q.v,). Cook Cook with a lid on tomato pur6e, and a bouquet of lamb out with a tue pieces of the pan for 30 minutes. Take the nPT·rnT·<>I~,rI spoon, and put put them in a pan with 250 g. g. (8 oz.) perforated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been sliced sliced and and lightly tossed tossed in butter. Add Add fresh fresh crfflm cream seasoned with paprika paprika to the sauce sauce left in the the first pan. pan. Boil down, strain, slrain, and and pour over the lamb. Simmer gently with a lid on the Ihe pan for 25 minutes. Saut6ed SAUTÉ D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU pARMENTTER PARMENTIER Sllutéed lamb Parmentier. s.lur6 Cook Cook the meat meat and and sauce sauce as as described descdbed in in the the recipe for Sautied Sauléed lamb with with aubergines, replacing replacîng the aubergines aubergines with 44 diced diced potatoes fried fried in butter butter or or oil. oi]. 10mb à la la printaniCre. printanière. slurf SAUTÉ n'lcNnlu n'AGNEAU A À L.n LA Saut6ed lamb pnnraNtinr PRINTAN1ÈRE - Proceed as in the recipe for Sautded Sautéed veal dà la printaniire prinlanière (see VEAL). Sautéed lamb lamb with with tomatoes. tomatoes. slurf SAUTÉ D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU AUx AUX Saut6ed ToMATBS TOMATES - Proceed Proceed as as described in the the recipe for Sautied Sautéed lamb lamb with wilh artichokes, Grtichokes, replacing replaclng the the artichokes anichokes by 8 small peeled, seeded cookOO in butter or oil. ail. A grated seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, cooked clove of garlic can be he added. added. Shoulder of of lamb. Illmb. 6pe,urn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU -- All AU the recipes given for Shoulder of of mutton multon (see (see MUTTON) are applicable "IJIJ,,~.a.UlÇ to for Shoulder shoulders of of ordinary lamb. lamb. They can be be boned and stuffed before before cooking. Shoulders of baby or milk-fed milk-fed lamb and and Pauillac lamb lamb should he boned. boned. These are should not not be are grilled grilled or roasted, roasted, and and served with with various various garnishes. garnishes. Shoulder Shoulder of of lamb 18mb à I'albigeoise. fplurn ÉPAULE D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU A A L'ALBlcEoIsE. L'ALBIGEOISE. Bone Bone the the shoulder and stuff with forcemeat forcemeat made of sausage meat meat and minced pig's liver Iiver in equal propromade of portions, portions, flavoured ftavoured with with chopped garlic and parsley, parsJey, and well weil seasoned. seasoned. Roll Roll the the shoulder shoulder and secure secure with with string. string. Fry it it lightly lightly until until golden in in sizzling sizzling goose goose fat fat in in an eafthenware casserole. Srirround with quartered potatoes potatoes or whole new potatoes, fJV 1.'" 'LI'-", and 12lightly 12lightly blanched bJanched cloves cloves of of garlic. gadie. Season, liule goose goose fat and and cook cook in the the oven. aven. Season, sprinkle with wÎth a little ît Sprînkle with with chopped parsley. parsley, Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which it Sprinkle was was cooked. of lamb à la boulang&re. tplur,n ÉPAULE D'AGNE.Lu D'AGNEAU A À ul LA Shoulder of Shoulder BoULANciRE BOULANGËRE - Bone Bone the the shoulder, season it il on the the inside, imide, roll, roll, and and secure secure with wîth string. string. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in an earthenware in which whîch 3 to to 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons earthenware fireproof fireproof dish dish in butter butter have have been heen heated. heated. Surround Surround with with 3 sliced or quartered large potatoes and 3 onions, finely finely chopped chopped and and lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. Season Season the the onions, garnish, garnish, sprinkle with the the butter butter left left over in in the the pan pan and and finish in the the oven, basting frequently. Just Just before before finish cooking in serving add add 4 tablespoons tab1espoons (* cup) thickened brown stock. stock. serving

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D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU snnlsfg BRA1SÉE -- Bone Bone a shoulder shoulder of of lamb. Season Season inside. inside,

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544

LAMPREY

Lamb on skewers Carrier) Lamb skewers or brochettes (Robert Carrier)

L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Line a Charlotte Charlotte mould with pie pastry. Put in

(see SOUPS tapioca cooked in it to to aa pur6e purée of fresh fresh peas peas (see tapioca Potage Lamballe). Lamballe). AND BROTHS, Potage

sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked in butter, and truffies and and mushrooms,

LAMBICK -- Highly intoxicating Belgian beer, beer, rather sour LAMBICK

Timbale of of lamb lamb ir à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. TIMBALE D'AGNEAU Timbale TIMBALE D'AGNslu

A À

it small lamb noisettes braised in court-bouillon (q.v.),lamb (q.v.), lamb

in taste. (See BEER.) BEER.)

all with Velouté Velouti sauce al! blended blended with sauce (see (see SAUCE) diluted with

LA MOTHE.SAINT-HERAYE MOTHE-SAINT-HÉRA YE -_ See LA SCE CHEESE. CHEESE.

cream Madeira. Alternate Alternate with layers of cream and flavoured with Madeira.

macaroni cooked in water and and blended with cream, butter and and grated cheese. cheese. These fillings must must be be completely completely cold before being put into into the the pie pie dish. dish. Cover Coyer the the dish dish with a pastry lid and decorate the top with pastry leaves. Ieaves. Make Make an opening to allow steam to escape and brush brush over over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a hot oven oyen for q 40 b to 45 minutes. Before serving, serving, pour pour into the pie through the opening, a few tablespoons of the Velouté Veloutd sauce. the sauce. Lamb's trotters (feeQ. (feet). pIEDs PIEDS D'AGNEAU - These These are are prepared as VARIETY as Sheep's trotters trotters (feet) (jeet) (see OFFAL or VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Vol-au-vent of lamb with tnffes truffles and and mushrooms mushrooms 1. VOLI. vorAU-VENT D'AGNEAU AUx AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES ET ET cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Fill Fili a vol-au-vent soon as as it it is is out of the the oven, oyen, with with a vol-au-vent case, case, as as soon ragofrt sweetbreads ragoût of braised thin noisettes of lamb, lamb sweetbreads cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and sliced truffies truffies and and mushrooms, all ail moistened with white brown thickened stock. white or brown Vol-au-vent of lamb with ftufles truffles and mushrooms mushrooms II. n. vorVOLAU-vENT TRUFFES ET cHAMpIGNoNs AU-VENT D'AGNEAU Aux AUX TRUFFES CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare a vol-au-venl vol-au-vent case in the usual usual way. As soon as as it is removed removed from fil! with with a a ragofit ragoût of of lamb lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads from the the oven, oyen, fill braised in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), with trufres truffies and mushrooms mushrooms braised added, added, the whole blended blended with a piping hot Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

LAMPROIE - There three types types of edible LAMPREY. LAMrRoIE There are are three lamprey: the or sea-lamprey, sea-lamprey, the lamprey: the lampern larnpern or the lamprey-eel or

proper. river lamprey lamprey and the lamprey proper. The found in the Atlantic and the MediterThe lamprey-eel found and the ranean is higbly prized. prized. It is is similar to the eel in is the most highly general appearance, appearance, but but different from from it in in aa number of yellowish with brown markings, its dorsal details: its skin is yellowish fins are are spaced spaced along along its its back, back, and fins has seven and it has seven bronchial which form form two two vertical lines on either side side of its orifices which neck. In In spring, the lamprey-eels migrate migrate to to the the mouths mouths of spring, the rivers. rivers. They They are to be found in large numbers numbers in the Loire, Loire, the Rhône Gironde. Rh6ne and the Gironde. of the lamprey lamprey is delicate delicate but, being being very very fatty, it The flesh of is somewhat indigestible. indigestible. Lampreys of medium size are the most sought after, especially those caught in the mouths of rivers. so that that the the skin skin can be easily removed. Scald the the fish fish so Scald can be tbe manner in which it is to be cooked, cut it According to the into thick slices or leave it whole. Prepare according to the selected recipe. recipe. The lamprey can be cooked cooked in aa great great many many different different ways. The lamprey commonly it is stewed in wine (en matelote) flavoured flavoured Most commonly of the fish. All Ali recipes for eel (q.v.) (q .v.) are are suitable with the blood blood of with lamprey. for lamprey. Bordelaise (Bordearx (Bordeaux cookery). r,lupnon LAMPROIE A À Lamprey Ià la Bordelaise Lamprey BORDELAISE - Bleed Bleed a a medium-sized lamprey. lamprey. Keep the LA BoRDELAIsp

LAMBALLE -- Name given to various various dishes. It is usually LAMBALLE applied by adding consommé with wi th a pplied to a meat broth made by adding consomm6 545

LAMPSANA LAMPSANA blood blood aside to to flavour flavour the the sauce. sauce. Scald the fish and scrape off the the skin. Remove Remove the central central nerve. (To (To do this, this, cut off the tip tip of of the the lamprey's lamprey's tail, make an incision round the neck neck below the gills gills and, through through this opening, catch hold of of the below the nerve nerve and and pull puil it it out.) Cut Cut the the fish fish into into slices slices 55 crn. cm. (2 inches) inches) thick. Butter Butter a pan and and line line itit with with sliced sliced onions onions and carrots. carrots. Put Put in the slices slices of lamprey. lamprey. Place Place aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.\ (q.v.) and a clove of of garlic garlic in the the middle middle of of the the dish. dish. Season Season with salt salt and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough red red wine wine to to cover coyer the the fish. Boil for 12 minutes. Cook white leek Cook 12 12 slices slices of ofwhite leek with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (l (t cup) cup) raw diced diced bacon bacon in butter butter in aa covered pan. Drain the slices of lamprey lamprey and and put put them them in in aa pan, pan, alternating alternating with the the slices slices of white white leek. leek. Make Make a roux roux (q.v.) (q.v.) of of flour flour and butter. Moisten with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the the lamprey. lamprey. Cook Cook this sauce sauce for I155 minutes, minutes, strain, and and pour pour over over the the lamprey. lamprey. Simmer very slowly slowly until until the the fish fish is is cooked. cooked. Arrange Arrange the the fish on a serving serving dish and pour pour over over itit the the sauce sauce mixed mixed with with some sorne of of the the blood. blood. dish and Garnish Gamish with with slices slices of of bread bread fried fried in butter. butter.

LAMPSANA" LAMPSAN~ NIPPLEWORT. NIPPLEWORT.

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LAMrSANE LAMPSANE - Plant of the

endive endive family, family, similar similar to to the the sow-thistle. sow-thistle. Its Its leaves leaves are eaten raw raw in in salad. salado Cooking Cooking turns turns them them bitter. bitter. Ambialet, Tarn Tarn (French (French Governnent Governmenl Tourist Tourisloffice) Ambialet, ofice)

LANGUE-DE-CHAT LANGUE-DE-CHAT (Cat's (Cat's tongue) tongue) -- In In the the view of of some sorne experts, name from its its shape -- thin, thin, experts, this this biscuit biscuit derives derives its its name

recognisable. ln In this this province, province, which which was was called recognisable. called Gallia

flat flat and and narrow, narrow, somewhat somewhat like like aa cat's cat's tongue tongue in in appearance. appearance. Langues-de-chat, which are crisp, crisp, dry dry biscuits, biscuits, can can be be made made Langues-de-chat,whichare and and flavoured flavoured in in various various ways. ways. Only Only biscuits biscuits made made according according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes given given below, below, however, however, can can properly properly be be called lqngues-de-chat. langues-de-chat. called These These keep keep for for a a long long time time and and are are served served with some sorne liqueurs liqueurs and and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. They They are are also also served served with with iced iced and used used as as an an ingredient ingredient of various various sweets (desserts) (desserts) and sweets puddings. puddings. Langue-de-chat 1 - Work Work together, together, in in aa bowl, bowl, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., Langue-de-chat cups) fine fine sugar sugar and 2t 21 dl. dl. (scant (scant 1 pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) 22 cups) fresh cream. cream. Add Add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, I1 fresh tablespoon vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured fine fine sugar, sugar, and, and, when when the the tablespoon mixture isis quite quite smooth, smooth, 55 stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. mixture Rub aa metal metal baking baking sheet sheet with with pure pure w{D( wax or or line line with with heavy heavy Rub paper and, and, using using aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with with aa round round nozzle, waxed paper waxed the mixture mixture to to make make little little strips strips about about 4 2i cm..(l (1 inch) inch) pipe the pipe apart, so so that that they they will will not not run run into into one one another another during during apart, baking. baking. Bakein in aa hot hot oven oyen for for about about 88 minutes. minutes. Bake Langue-de-chat IIfi -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 125 125 g. g. @l (41 oz., oz., generous generous 1 Langue-dechat cup) butter, butter, 125 125 g. g. (4 (41 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sieved sieved flour, flour, 100 100 g. g. cup) (4 (4 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., + cup) cup) vanillavan illaflavoured fine fine sugar,2 sugar, 2 eggs. eggs. flavoured Cream the the butter butter in in aa warmed warmed bowl. bowl. Add Add the the Method. Cream Method. sugar and and vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Work Work the the mixture mixture for for 22 sugar and mix mix in in the the eggs, eggs, one one at at aa time. time. Add Add the the sieved sieved minutes, and minutes, flour. flour. onto aa baking baking sheet sheet as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe this this mixture mixture onto Pipe

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Narbonensis under the Romans, was invented the ragoût Narbonensis ragofit of was the the prototype of that mutton with white beans which was robust dish known as as cassoulet. cassoulet. robust The Languedoc Languedoc larder larder is is well weIl stocked. stocked. In In the the southThe western provinces of of France are to be be found excellent excellent meat, meat, western poultry, and good winged and ground game. The succulent poultry, finest foie foie gras gras is made in this region from goose and· finest and duck and their their indispensable foil, foil, the the truffie, truffie, the the 'subterliver and ranean empress' empress' as as it was called by by the the Marquis de de Cussy. Cussy. ranean To these these delicacies delicacies must be be added excellent saltwater and To freshwater fish. fish. Among the latter latter are the the trout of the the icy freshwater Pyrenean streams, streams, the the perch, bream, tench, tench, pike, etc., etc., which which Pyrenean are found found in abundance in the Garonne, Garonne, Aridge, Ariège, Tarn and are Aude rivers. rivers. Aude The Languedoc Languedoc kitchen kitchen gardens are are well weil stocked stocked with The and the the orchards orchards with delicious delicious fruit. Languedoc vegetables and vegetables also has has its its vineyards vineyards and produces produces excellent excellent wine. also With such such natural natura! resources, resources, it is is no Culinary specialities specialities -- With Qnlinsry wonderthat the caisine cuisine of of Languedoc Languedoc is is excellent excellent and and that that the the wonder that the large number number of of succulent succulent specialities. specialities. region has has aa large region Here, first, first, are are some sorne typical typical Languedoc Languedoc broths broths and and soups: soups: Here, Pot-au-feu dà la la poulefarcre poulefarcie (stuffed chicken chicken hotpot); hotpot); soup soup au au Pot-au-feu farci; pot-au-fat pot-au-feu ahigeois albigeois (with (wi th stuffed stuffed goose gooseneck); pot-auneck); pot-aufarci; feu carcassonnais carcassonnais (with ribs of of beef, beef, neck neck of of mutton, lean lean fan bacon, stuffed stuffed cabbage cabbage and and white white beans); beans); ouillade ouillade catalan; catalan; bacon, (Rousbraou boufat bouffat de de Cerdagne; boullinade boul/inade des des pAcheurs pêcheurs (Rousbraou sillon); bouillabaisse bouillabaisse Catalane Catalane (which (which is is nothing nothing like like the the sillon); bouillabaisse of of Marseille'1; Marseille); soupe soupe aux aux poissons de Site Sète (fish poissons de bouillabaisse soup); soupe soupe aux aux clovisses clovisses (cockle (cockle soup); soup); soupe soupe dà l'ail l'ail (garlic soup); soup); soupe soupe dà Ia la courge courge (pumpkin (pumpkin soup); soup); soupe soupe aux aux choux choux soup); soup); soupe soupe oux aux tomates tomates (tomato (tomato soup); soup); tourin; tour in ; (cabbage soup); (cabbage and succulent succulent garbure. garbure. and Among the the hors-d'ouvre hors-d'œuvre of of the the area area are: Black Mountain Mountain Among are; Black and Aridge Ariège ham; ham; sausages sausages from from Luchon, Luchon, Toulouse, Toulouse, the the and Black Mountain Mountain and and Aridge; Ariège; frittons frittons or or grattons grattons of of pork, pork, Black goose and and turkey; turkey; dried dried ftche fiche with with radishes radishes from from Tarn; Tarn; goose melsat from from Dourgne; Dourgne; Ianguettes languettes (little (little tongues) tongues) from from Tarn; Tarn; melsat anchovy pdti pâté from from Collioure; Collioure; little !ittle pdtis pâtés of of P6zenas Pézenas or or anchovy Béziers (which (which are are also also eaten eaten as as aa dessert); dessert); anchoiade; an cho iade ; fresh B6ziers fresh la croque-au-sel; croque-au-sel; fresh fresh figs. figs. white beans beans dà la white Among the the special special egg egg dishes dishes of ofLanguedoc Languedoc are: are: Omelettes Omelettes Among la cansaldo; cansaldo; omelettes omelettes with with ham, ham, blood, blood, wild wild asparagus asparagus tips, tips, dà Ia hop shoots shoots (called (called omelette omelelle dà la la Saint-Jean), Saint-Jean), agaric, agaric, peppers, peppers, hop

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LANGUEDOC, ROUSSILLON, ROUSSILLON, COMTE COMTÉ DE DE FOD( FOIX LANGUEDOC, The land land of ofOc Oc (Languedoc) (Languedoc) isis aa district district which which for for centuries centuries The has had had aa tradition tradition of of fine fine cooking. cooking. Its Its people people have have always always has connoisseurs of of good good food. food. Not Not only only have have they they proprobeen connoisseurs been vided substantial substantial dishes dishes in in abundance, abundance, such such as as the the famous famous vided cassoulet (q.v.) (q.v.) of of Castelnaudary Castelnaudary and and the the daube daube languelanguecassoulet but also also subtly subtly flavoured flavoured and and delicate delicate appetisers appetisers docienne, but docienne, suchas as the thepdti pâté defoie defoie gras gras with with truffies, truffies, gem gem of ofthe the LangueLanguesuch docculinary culinary repertoire, repertoire, which which has has made made famous famous throughout throughout doc the world world the the names names of of Toulouse, Toulouse, Cazdres, Cazères, Albi Albi and and other other the citieswhere wherefor for so so long long these these delicacies delicacieshave have been been made. made. cities In Languedoc, Languedoc, the the Roman Roman and and Arab Arab influences influences which which In gradually determined determined the the character character of of its its cooking cooking are are still still gradually 546 s46

LANGUEDOC with olives; head with lamb's sweetbread pie with with salsify; calf s head sweetbread pie calf s brain en calfs m papillote; veal kidneys d la catalane. agaric, salsify, poultry pie pie .with with agaric, Fricassée of Fricasste of chicken; chicken; poultry truffied capon; capon; stuffed chicken.. chicken; truffled mushrooms and truffles.. truffies; stuffed mushrooms and (stuffed with with sa sausage, olives, la carcassonnaise (stuffed usage, olives, capon capon àd la chicken livers, the neck stuffed with garlic bread, roasted on turkey with with olives olives;.. truffied young turkey; young turkey the the spit); spit); truffled of duck; pigeon àd duck with olives; salmi of duck àd la bigarade; duck goose in blood; blood; go ose with la la catalane; compte of of pigeon; pigeon in salmi of gainea fowl ; chestnuts; ragofit of goose with celery ;'salmiofguineafowl; goose; sanguette of chicken chicken;; a/icuit aliait of chicken, turkey and goose; or sailAed with garlic and olives, or turkey turkey livers with with capers, olives, trufies, capers, grapes truffles, duck or goose with capers, lemon; foie gras of lemon; foie of duck wine, in pies, pies, charcoal-grilled, potted; Toulouse, Frontignan wine, Cazères pâtés de foie foie gras with truffies;. pickled and Luchon Luchon pdtds Cazdres and goose and duck; partrrdge la catalane; salmi of partridge; goose partridge àd la

pine pine kernels, garlic, tomatoes and Quercy poached or Quercy truffies; poached

poached or fried eggs with ham, tomatoes, aubergines, garlic; poached cansalado, fried eggs àd la cansalado. fried are made made from saltwater and The following dishes are and freshwater fish, kinds, snails and frogs: all kinds, water fish, shellfish of ail frogs: Cod àd snails and I'ailloli; ragoût ragofit of cod à d la h carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; cod of cod cod à d la persillade l'ailloli; (with parsley); parsley); brandade of cod; cod; cod bouillabaisse; shad à (with d on the spit ;. lamprey en la persilhde; persillade .. stuffed shad on en matelote; matelote; tunny (tuna) fish catalane, with with olives olives or fricandeau of tunny fish àd la catalane, fricandeau (tuna) àd la palavasienne; river tunny (tuna) iver with anchovy; chopped tunny meuniire; river trout in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; small small fry trout àd la meunière; fry in court-bouillon; Eel àd la catalane; elver court-bouillon; fry; pike on elver fry; on the spit; matelotes of various freshwater civet of spiny sptny lobster freshwater fuh; fish; civet matelotes (Roussillon) ; freshwater crayfish in in court-bouillon; court-bouillon; mussels mussels (Roussillon); freshwater crayfish la ravigote; ravigote; mussels mussels àd la la catalane; catalane; mussels mussels with with rice; àd la cockles àd la la persillade; snails àd la la languedocienne, àd la persillade; snails cockles sommeroise; mourguettes mourguettes àd lodivoise, àd la narbonnaise, àd la sommeroise; lodévoise, h meridionale; meridiotule; frogs la frogs legs àd la persillade. Here are meat, poultry and game dishes of Here poultry and are sorne the meat, some of the d l'albigeoise, l'albigeoise, à d la carcassonnaise; carcassonnaise ; Languedoc: Daube ofbeef of beef à Languedoc: of estouffat estouffat of of beef beef àd la catalane; veal slices with agaric; roll of ragofit of of veal with olives; olives ; veal en persillade; ragoût m papillote; veal en persillade; veal with with sa salsify; ls ify ; pistache of mutton; gasconchump end of veal salsify; ragofit of of mutton; braised of mutton with sais nadc of ify ; ragoût nade braised leg of of with white beans; beans; leg of of mutton with garlic; Luchon mutton with lamb àd la Ia persillade; salted ewe persillade; blanewe;.. Toulouse Toulovse quarter of lamb quette of lamb; cutlets of milk-fed lamb leg of lamb en m culotte; leg quette ribs of pork lamb with with agaric; galimaufry of pork; lamb pork; ribs pork àd la persillade; ribs Iumbet of pork with ribs of pork en en papillotes; lumbet potatoes, cassoulets from Carcassonne, Carcassonne, Castelnaudary and Toulouse; estoufat of white white beans beans from from Carcassonne; sucking pig with saupiquet ariigeois (with white beans); beans); roast sucking piglet skins; I'albigeoise; tripe lripe àd la mode mode narbonnaise; narbonnaise; skins; tripe àd l'albigeoise; (H6rault); manouis (Hérault); (H6rault); tripe "vith with saffron; sffion; cabassols (Hérault); cabassols petarran Luchon; lamb's lamb's pluck la languedocienne; pluck àd la petarram of of Luchon;

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of sPrny lobster.

Prgeon, Leg

R_gus -Broou

d lo goyouporde, orives, (

,,

o

boufrot

la

of Languedoe Languedoc Gastronomic map of Gastronomie

547

Outlloda-

of mutron d lo cotolonc

-Morronsilocis,l

LANGUEDOCIENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A (À LA) partridge partridge with cabbage; cabbage; salmi of of larks larks;; larks en caisse; small birds baked baked in aa pie; pie; bunting bunt ing en caisse; caisse; salmi salmi of of thrush; teal teal d à la bigarade; hare au of hare; civet of izard au saupiquet; civet of (Pyrenean goat); pdtd (Pyrenean mountain goat); pâté of ofyoung young rabbit with truffies truffles;; hare hare pdti. pâté. The sweets and The vegetable vegetable dishes, dishes, sweets and preserves preserves made made in Languedoc Gratin of Languedoc include: include: Gratin of tomatoes tomatoes and and aubergines aubergines;; aubergine agarics sautied sautéed with garlic; garlic; aubergine stuffed stuffed d à la catalane; agarics cipes persillade; green green peas peas with ham; ham; salsify sais ify deep-fried cèpes d à la persillade; with with sugar; sugar; stuffed stuffed cabbage, cabbage, green green cabbage cabbage saufted sautéed and stewed; stewed; French French beans beans with tomato tomato sauce. sauce. BiscuitsfromB6darieux; honey uoquelles croquettes from from Narbonne Narbonne;; Biscuits from Bédarieux; honey grape tart; touron from from Limoux; Montpellier Montpellier pie; Limoux from Limoux; from cake; cake; dry dry pepper pepper cakes cakes from Limoux; Alleluias Alleluias from and janots from Albi; Albi; flaky Castelnaudary; ring-biscuits ring-biscuits and janots from fiaky Castelnaudary; pastry and and rauzel from from Carcassonne; Carcassonne; flaunes fia unes or or flauzonnes fiauzonnes from from from Loddve; Lodève; heartcakes heartcakes from from Tarn; bras de de Venus Venus from Narbonne; pancakes pancakes;; oreillettes oreillettes ('rabbits ('rabbits ears'); ears'); pickled pickled plums plums;; crystallised crystallisedfruit Carcassonne. fruit from Carcassonne. Wines -- The province of Languedoc is is very large large and covers covers several wine-producing wine-producing areas. areas. C6tes du Rh6ne. Rhône. The best-known best-known vineyards of the norCôtes dt thern part of this area are situated on the right bank of the Rh6ne Rhône (opposite (opposite Valence Valence and and Tain-L'Hermitage) Tain-L'Hermitage) in in the dipartement département of Arddche. Ardèche. This is is where the white and and red wines of Saint-Joseph Saint-Joseph and the red wines of Cornas are proproduced. duced. The Saint-P6ray Saint-Péray white white wines, also from this area, are made into excellent sparkling wines following the mtthode méthode champenoise. champenoise. The appellations of of the southern part of the right bank of the the Cdtes Côtes du Rh6ne Rhône are situated situated in the dipartement département of of Gard. Gard. This This is is the the home home of of the the dry, dry, fruity fruit y ros6s rosés of Tavel Tavel and Chusclan, the red red and rose rosé wines of Lirac, and the red red and white white wines wines of of Laudun. Laudun. Another exceptional exceptional wine produced here is the V D.Q.S. Costiires Costières &t du Gard. Gard. Aude Aude and and Hirault. Hérault. Besides Besides a a large large production production of of vin ordinaire, Aude produces the the excellent excellent red red wines win es Fitou, ordinaire, Aude Corbibres Corbières and and Minervois; Minervois; also also a a sparkling wine wine called Blanquette Blanquette de Limoux. A famous Muscat Muscat wine wine is is produced produced in in the A very very fine fine famous dipartemenr département of of H6rault Hérault in Frontignan. Frontignan. Eastern Pyrenees. This dipartement département is the home of such great dessert wines wines as Rivesaltes Rivesaltes and Muscat Muscat de Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Banyuls Banyuls Grand Cru, Maury, C6tes Côtes d'Agly d'Agly and and Banyuls and Banyuls Grand Roussillon. Roussillon. Gaillac Gaillac wine, from the dipartement département of of Tarn, Tarn, can be be drunk as as a still or sparkling sparkling wine.

liquid part will be very very clear and will give offno off no more steam. through a very very fine strainer As soon as it is ready, strain through strainer or close woven woven cloth. clotho Put Put into pots, pots, which should be be filled to the close top. When When the the fat fat is is completely completely set, set, cover cover the the pots pots with top. paper, tie with string, and put them in a cool, dry place. The lard will keep for several months. After the melting melting process is complete the strained strained pork fat After leaves a a residue that that is is considered very good good to to eat in the districts districts of of France France where where lard is used. fat) -- The fat fat of pork lying between between the Lard gras (pork faQ skin and the flesh fiesh which is found found all ail along the chine. chine. fat, usually usuaUy eaten eaten fresh, fresh, is is in in two two layers. layers. The first This fat, layer, next to the flesh, fiesh, is used used chiefly chiefiy in the preparalayer, which is next of lard. It is called caUed melting melting fat. The second layer, layer, next next to tion of melts less readily. It is used in various various the skin, is firmer and melts butchery and also for barding. It is known as ways in pork butchery hard fat. fat of the pig's belly, belly, streaked Lard maigre -- This is the fat streaked smoked. with muscular tissue. It can be salted or smoked. In ln France France this this fat is usually usually eaten fresh fresh but in England and in U.S.A. U .S.A. it is smoked and known as as bacon. bacon, or salted and known as salt pork.

LARDING.

Threading lardoons lardoons of of varying varying thick- Threading

LARDER LARDER -

large cuts of of meat, by by means of of a larding larding needle. ness into large ness Larding fat. lnno LARD A À uqurn PIQUER -- Pork Pork fat used used for for interlarding interlarding Larding

meat. This fat should be white, firm and dry. In summer it if possible, be kept on ice before being cut into larmust, if doons. The purpose for which the lardoons lardoons are used deterdetermines their length length and thickness. thickness. mines their To To make make them, them, first first cut cut the the fat fat into into rectangular rectangular slabs. measured across, these these slabs slabs should correspond to the When measured desired desired length of of the lardoons. lardoons. fiat on a table, skin downwards. downwards. Slice the Lay these slabs flat With the flat fiat of of the knife knife smooth the surface surface of of the evenly. With fat evenly. fat, and slice horizontally horizontally to obtain obtain the lardoons. lardoons. They must be kept in a cool place until they are needed. Larding needles needles of different thicknesses thicknesses are are available for threading threading the lardoons lardoons into into the meat. meat.

LANGUEDOCEI\NE LANGUEDOCIENNE (A (À LA)-Name LA) - Name given given to to a number number of different dishes mostly served with a garnish of tomatoes, tomatoes, aubergines and cipes. cèpes. The sauce sauce served served with with dishes dishes prepared prepared dà Ia la languedocienne languedocienne is flavoured fiavoured with garlic. garlic.

Larding Larding needles needles (Coutellerie (Coutellerie Andrd) André)

LAPWING. VANNEAU VANNEAU -- Bird Bird of of passage with crested head, head, considered considered very good to eat. Its eggs are much mu ch sought after. The lapwing lapwing is is cooked like plover plover (q.v.). (q.v.).

LARDING NEEDLE. LARDoIRE LARDOIRE -- Implement used used for LARDING larding cuts of of meat, poultry poultry and game. varying -- Strips of larding fat of varying lengths and thicknesses, thicknesses, threaded into meat, meat, poultry and and game game by by means of of a larding needle. needle. In ln French. French, the the name name lardon is also also used for blanched and and fried diced bacon which is added to certain certain dishes such as as hare, beef etc., and to ofhare, beefdà la la bourguignonne bourguignonne etc., to a number number of civet of civet garnishes. garnishes. LARDONS LARDOONS. rlnpous

LARD. sArNDoux SAINDOUX -- Cooking fat obtained obtained from the melting melting down down of pork pork fat. fat. This This fat, fat, well weil prepared prepared and and free free from impurities, impurities, is is excellent and in in certain regions of France, France, notably notably the the south-west, is is used in place place of butter or oil for the the greater part part oftheir of their culinary preparations. preparations. Preparation Preparation. Cut Cut the the fat fat in very very small small pieces pieces and and put put it in a deep pot pot with I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant ft cup) water water per per 500 500 g. g. (l (1 lb.) fat. fat.

LARK.

Start cooking over a good good heat, heat, stirring stirring with a wooden wooden spoon, then then cook over a gentle but but sustained heat, heat, stirring stirring often, ofte n, until the the fat is completely completely melted. melted. At this this point point the pieces pieces of of pork pork fat will appear well weil fried and and crisp, crisp, while while the the

known, including including the calandra and crested crested lark. species are known, The lark has has a very very delicate flesh fiesh but, but, in some sorne countries, countries, it

ALoUETTE, ALOUETTE, MAUvmrrE MAUVIETTE - Bird, of which numerous numerous

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is in great great demand more more as as an an aviary bird bird than than as as food, food, of its its varied varied and harmonious harmonious song. because of because 548 548

LEAF LEAF In France, France, larks larks are eagerly eagerly sougbt sought for the preparation preparation of lark lark pdt6, pâté, greatly greatly esteemed by gastronomes. gastronomes. it belongs Although Although the the lark lark is is found found in Asia and in Africa, il belongs more to northern northem parts of Europe. Europe. Larks abound abound in in Promore vence, vence, in in Languedoc, Languedoc, in in the the plains plains of of Champagne and Burgundy, Burgundy, as well weil as in the steppes of southem Russia. when asmauviette mauviette when France, the lark is always always referred to as In France, savoury bird was it is used used for the the table. In former former times times this savoury mala avis, mauvis, which which derives derives from from the the Latin Latin mala called mauvis, called the qualification meaning bad bad bird. bird. It is is strange that the meaning strange that mauvais (bad) should have been applied to a bird which is so mauvais delicate to eat. FEMME A LA BONNE roNNr FEMMELarks ià la bonre bonne femme. MAUvIETTEs MAUVIETIES À Larks as Thrushes àd la in a a casserole in the same way way as in the Prepared in femme (see TH RUSH). bonne femme THRUSH). bonne Larks in breadcrust. breadcrust. MAUVIETTEs MAUVIETIES EN CROÛTE cRoOrE -- Slit the birds Larks them. Stuff them with with aa piece of along the back and and bone them. piece of in aa piece foie gras about the size of aa small nut. nut. Pres Press in about the foie in aa truffie. Fold Fold the the birds birds back back into Place them them in into shape. shape. Place truffie. one against against tbe the buttered casserole, casserole, pressing pressing them closely one them closely buttered other so that they keep their shape in cooking. Season. Pour on melted butter. Cook for 5 minutes in a very hot oven. and butter the round loaf and out aa round Scoop out larks. Scoop Drain the larks. (see FORCEMEAT). forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT). inside. Line with àd gratin forcemeat Brown in Put the finish and finish larks in crust and in tbe the crust Brown in the oven. Put the larks the oven. them aa for 8 minutes. Pour over them in the oven oven for cooking them in Demi-glace concentrated Demi-glace few tablespoons Madeira-flavoured concentrated tablespoons Madeira-flavoured sauce (see SAUCE). dish covered covered with with aa on aa dish the 'pie' on Put the sauce SAUCE). Put napkin, napkin, and serve. serve. Larks en as for for EN CAISSES cAIssEs -- Proceed as MAUvIETTEs EN en caisses. MAUVIETIES Thrushes (see THRUSH). Thrushes en en caisses (see Larks larks A LA unurs -- Slit Slit the larks MAUvIETTES À u MINUTE Larks ài la minute. minute. MAUVIETTES along the back. Open gently. Season flatten them Season with and flatten them gently. Open and the back. salt pan, using quickly in pepper. Fry in aa frying frying pan, using best Fry quickly and pepper. salt and butter. Place each in butter, and and of bread fried in each bird on aa slice of (see serve. Demi-glace sauce (see and Demi-glace serve. Pour aa little liqueur brandy and SAUCE) larks. over the larks. sauce over SAUCE) into the pan and stir. Pour this sauce pArB FROID Lark pâté, pf,te, cold. Made with with FRorD DE DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTES -- Made cold. PÂTÉ boned pdti as cold way as cold Partridge pâté larks stuffed in the the same same way boned larks stuffed in (see PÂTÉ). PATE). pArn CHAUD Lark pâté, Made with with p0t6, hot. DE MAUVIETTES MAUVIETTTs -- Made cHAUD DE hot. PÂTÉ boned gras and in the and truffies, the same same with foie truffies, in larks stuffed boned larks stuffed with foie gras way as (se PÂTÉ). pdti (see hot Quai! PATE). as hot Quail pâté pdlroNrAlsE Larks à la pi6montaise. MAUVIETTES rrHwtETrEs ÀA LA PIÉMONTAISE la piémontaise. Stuff (see gratin forcemeat piece of of àd gratin with aa piece each lark lark with Stuff each forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) quickly nut. Cook of aa smaU Cook quickly small nut. FORCEMEAT) about about the size size of in sb on dish on aa bed bed of of deep earthenware earthenware di in aa deep in butter. butter. Serve Serve in polenta (q.v.) (q.v.) made down into into Press the birds down cheese. Press the birds with cheese. made with the for in the oven for pour on and bake bake in the oven melted butter on melted butter and the polenta, pour 55 minutes. Sprinkle game stock few tablespoons of game stock with aa few tablespoons of Sprinkle with flavoured with Marsala. Marsala. ptur DE Pilaf Cook the larks the larks DE MAUVIETTES MAUvIETTeS - Cook Pilaf of of larks. larks. PILAF quickly on aa bed bed of of Rice Rice quickly in in aa circle circle on in butter. Arrange Arrange them them in pilaf game essence (see PILAF). of game essence pilaf (see few tablespoons PILAF). Pour Pour aa few tablespoons of flavoured Madeira over over tbem. them. flavoured with with Madeira Larks with Proceed as as for for AU RISOTTO Rlsorro -- Proceed tvtluvnrrEs AU with risotto. MAUVIETTES Pilaf (see RICE). Risotto (see RICE). larks on on aa bed of Risotto Pilaf of larks. Serve bed of of larks. Serve the the larks

It

u

I

u

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flan Latticed apple apple flan Latticed

pastry Flan or or tart tart pastry or TART. TART. GRILLÉ cnItl6 -- Flan LATIICED FLAN or covered with with or other other filling, filling, covered fruit, cream cream or filled with with fruit, shell filled shell pastry. of pastry. strips of narrow criss-cross strips

BYOF BYRESTAURANTS OF LE PÈRE PERE -_ See See RESTAURANTS LATUILLE, LE LATIJILLE, GONE DAYS. GONE great chef in the who lived lived in the seventeenth seventeenth VARENI{E -- A A great chef who LA VARENNE LA minion or or as kitchen kitchen minion his career career as Varenne began began bis century. century. La La Varenne Henry of Henry Bar, sister sister of de Bar, Duchesse de home of of the the Duchesse marmiton in the home marmitonin IV IV of of France. pot', observobserv'poule au au pot', legendary 'poule Tbe of the the legendary author of The King, King, author with him with entrusted him lad, entrusted ing bright lad, was aa bright Varenne was La Varenne ing that that La result of of As aa result heart. As the heart. of the an affair affair of certain in an negotiations in ceitain negotiations remarked Duchess remarked the Duchess great fortune that the fortune that this, he made such such aa great this, he carrying by carrying 'You have better by have done done better jestingly to jestingly day: 'You one day: him one to bim larding (amorous notes) than by larding notes) th my an by "poulets" (amorous my brother's brother's "poulets" mine'. mine'. was He was chef. He great talents as aa chef. But But La La Varenne Varenne also also had had great talents as planned books on books on the first systematicaUy systematically planned of the the first author of the author rare, but but are now now rare, cookery These books books are and confectionery. confectionery. These cookery and recipes and contain contain recipes they for centuries centuries and consulted for they have have been been consulted titles: le/e Here are are their their titles: which today. Here be used used today. which can can still still be (first edition 1653); le le Confiturier Confiturier français Pâtissier edition 1653); Pdtissier français frangais frangais (first (first edition published by by 1651, published (1664); lele Cuisinier français (first (1664); edition 1651, Cuisinierfrangais and Pierre virtually unobtainable); unobtainable); and now virtually Lyons, now at Lyons, Pierre David David at (published at Carnier l'École at Lyons Lyons by by Jacques Jacques Carnier des ragoûts ragofits (publisbed I'Ecole des in in 1725). 1725).

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deep very deep found in in very LA V ARET -- Fish family found Fish of of tbe the salmon salmon family LAVARET periodically lakes. which periodically lavarets which There are are also also saltwater saltwater lavarets lakes. There Le Lake Le run that of of Lake after isis that The most most sougbt sought after run to rivers. The to the the rivers. Bourget. Bourget. river trout and This for river trout and All recipes recipes for delicate. Ali very delicate. This fish fish isis very (See TROUT.) salmon TROUT.) lavaret. (See for lavaret. trout are are suitable suitable for salmon trout

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are LAYON. vineyards of of Anjou Anjou are The vineyards DU LAYON LAyoN -- Tbe LAYON. COTEAUX corEAUX DU to white wines wines of of of the the best best white Some of these slopes. found on on these slopes. Sorne to be be found the vineyards on on from the the vineyards come from dipartemenl come Maine-et-Loire département the Maine-et-Loire these the Layon river. Layon river. right bank ofthe the right bank of these slopes on the slopes on green. LEAF. plants, usually and green. part of flat and usuallyfiat Aerial part of plants, rrunre -- Aerial LEAF. FEUILLE A y 1eaves great man leaves are are edible. edible. A great many Vine leaves have have vine leaves vIGNE - - Young Young vine DE VIGNE FEUILLES DE Vine leaves. leaves. FEUILLES (quail game (quail various to wrap wrap game They are are used used to various uses in cookery. cookery. They uses in and pork orpork of bacon bacon or partridges especially) with strips stripsof along with especially) along and partridges fat.. fat.. Turkish (balls of are wrapped wrapped inin rice)are meat and and rice) of meat Turkish dolmas dolmas (balls vine vine leaves. leaves. Young make to make used to leaves are are sometimes sometimes used vine leaves Young tender tender vine fritters, green salads. to green salads. and added added to fritters, or or finely finely chopped chopped and Vine arrangements indecorative decorative arrangements leaves may may also also be be used usedin Vine 1eaves of fresh fruit. fruit. of fresh

LARUE YS. BYGONE DA DAYS. RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE LARUE -_ See See RESTAURANTS LASAGNE. pasta cut in the of wide cut in Italian pasta the shape shape ofwide LAzAGNE- Italian IASAGNE. LAZAGNEribbons. (q.v.). as macaroni macaroni (q.v.). in the way as ribbons. It It isis cooked cooked in the same same way LATEX umber of plants. The latex of of plants. The latex of LATEX -- The The milky milky sap of aa nnumber sap of the galactodendron of and used in drunk and used in of Columbia Columbia isis drunk the galactodendron cooking as milk. milk. cooking in in the way as the same same way LA TOUR (Château) (Chflteau) -- One great wines wines of of BorBorfive great One of of the the five LATOLIR deaux (Paulliac-M6doc). deaux (Paulliac-Médoc).

549 549

LEAF CHERVIL CHERVIL LEAF pLUcHEs DE LEAF CHERVIL. CIIERVIL. PLUCHES DE CERFEUIL cERFEUTL -- See See GARGARLEAF NISHES, Chervi/ Chervil leaves. leaves. NISHES,

LEAKAGE. COULAGE couLAcELoss ofliquor from aa cask. of liquor from cask. - Loss LEAKAGE.

LEAVEN. LEVATN -- Sour paste which Sour wheat wheat paste which has has begun begun to to LEA VEN. LEVAIN ferment and and which which isis in in aa fit fit state state to to induce induce fermentation, fermentation, and and ferment thus cause cause kneaded kneaded dough dough to to rise. rise. The The term term leaven leaven isis often often thus (brewer's yeast). instead of used instead of barm yeast). barm (brewer's used

Bunch Bunch ofleeks ofleeks (Kollar'1 (Kollar)

LEBERKNODEI,N (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery) cookery) -- See See SOUPS SOUPS LEBERKNÛDELN AND BROTHS. BROTHS. AND (Hungarian cookery) LEBER-SUPPE (Hungarian cookery) -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND LEBER-SUPPE BROTHS. BROTHS.

LECITHIN. LÉCITHINE rfctrnNs -- Fat Fat containing phosphorus which containing phosphorus which LECITHIN. yolks, brain, etc. is found in in egg egg yolks, etc. is

planl which This plant, which isis mainly This mainly used used as as aa ftavouring flavouring for for the the stockpot or or an an ingredient ingredient of stockpot of home-made home-made soups, soups, can can also also be be prepared in in various various ways prepared ways as as aa vegetable. vegetable. porREAUx ÀA LA I*eks ài la Ia béchamel. bechamel. POIREAUX Leeks r,l BÉCHAMEL ntcnerusr, -- Trim the Trim the leeks, leaving leaving oruy only the part. Parboil leeks, the white white part. Parboil for for 55 minutes minutes in in salted water, water, and salted and drain. drain. Cook Cook in in butter and arrange butter and arrange in in aa timbale or or dish. dish. timbale (see SAUCE.) Coyer Cover with with not not too thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce too thick sauce (see SAUCE.) porREAux ÀA L'ANGLAISE Boiled leeks. leeks. POIREAUX Boiled r,'Ar.rcr,Arso -- Trim Trim off off the the roots roots leeks and greater part of the the leeks part of of and the the greater green ends, of the the green leaving ends, leaving part. Take only the the white only white part. Take off off the the outside outside skin skin and and wash wash the the leeks. Tie Tie them leeks. in boiling them in in bunches like asparagus bunches like asparagus and and cook cookin boiling salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry dry them, them, serve folded napkin napkin or serve on on aa folded or inin aa perforated asparagus asparagus dish. dish. Garnish parsley. Serve Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. Serve with melted melted butter. butter. ponnlux BRAISÉS Braised leeks. leeks. POIREAUX nnusfs -Trim Trim 12 12 large large leeks, leeks, leaving leaving only part. Cut only the the white white part. into Cut into pieces and put into pieces and put into aa sauté pan in saut6 pan in which which 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant * cup) (scant cup) butter butter have been been heated. heated. Season Season with with salt and salt and pepper. (6 tablespoons) pepper. Moisten with 55 tablespoons Moisten with tablespoons (6 tablespoons) water, water, coyer pan and cover the the pan and simmer simmer for for about minutes. Put 40 minutes. about 40 Put the the leeks into aa vegetable dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the the braising braising liquor liquor to which an an extra tablespoon of of butter has been butter has been added. added. Alternatively, the the leeks can moistened with with c1ear can be clear meat meat be moistened stock stock instead instead of water. porREAUx AU Leeks Leeks with with melted melted butter butter or on other other sauces. sauoes. POIREAUX AU BEURRE BEURRE FONDU FoNDU -- Boil in in water and serve with with melted and serve melted butter butter or any any other other sauce, sauce, such such as as Cream, Crearn, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Mousseline, Mousseline, (see SAUCE). Vinaigrette (see SAUCE). porREAr.rr( À Leeks L€eks àI la la creme. creme. POIREAUX A, LA cniMe -- Put Put the L.a, CRÈME the white part of the leeks into aa buttered sauté pan. Season ofthe Season and saut6 pan. and cook cook gently gently for for 15 15 minutes minutes with with aa lid lid on. on. Moisten Moisten with with fresh fresh cream, cream, covering gently for covering the leeks. Simmer gently the leeks. for 30 30 minutes with the lid on the pan. pan. Put into aa vegetable dish. Add aa few few dish. Add tablespoons juices and panjuices tablespoons fresh cream to the pan and pour over the the leeks. ponuAtx EN Deep-fried Deep,fried leeks. leeks, POIREAUX FRrror -- Trim EN FRlTaT Trim the the leeks, leaving leaving only the white part, and cut this this into pieces. Marinate juice, salt for for 30 in oil, lemon juice, pepper, then minutes in 30 minutes oil, lemon and pepper, salt and then parboil in salted water for 88 minutes. Dip Dip in in aa light light batter fry ln and fry batter and in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat. fat. When the leeks become golden and and crisp, drain drain them, dry, them, dry, season arrange in aa heap on aa folded napkin or season with fine salt, arrange on a paper doyley, and garnish with fried fried parsley. poIREAux AU Leeks au AU GRATIN au gratin. POrREAUX Trim the GRATTN -- Trim leeks, the leeks, leaving only the the white part. Parboil Parboil in salted salted water and and cook gently in butter in aa covered pan. Put into aa buttered covered sauté saut6 pan. ovenproof (Parmesan, for ovenproof dish, sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese cheese (Parmesan, for preference), pour over sorne some melted butter, and and brown brown in in aa oyen or under aa low grill. slow oven Leeks ià la grecque. porREArrx POIREAUX A À LA White part r,.l GRECQUE cnrceur -- White the leeks leeks cooked in a a court-bouillon (q.v.) consisting of of the court-bouillon (q.v.) of

t

pdtisserie) Leckerli (Swiss pâtisserie) Leckerli

(Swiss pfftisserie) LECKERLI Type of LECKERLI (Swiss pâtisserie) -- Type of spiced spiced biscuit, rectangular in shape and about (* inch) thick. about 1I cm. cm. (t (5 oz., g. (5 Ingredients. 150 g. generous t* cup) oz., generous Ingredients. 150 cup) fine fine sugar,

(12 oz., 350 g. (12 oz., 1I cup) honey, 500 g. (18 oz., 500 g. 4! cups) o2.,4| cups) sieved c,.rp) chopped fresh i- cup) fresh almonds, almonds, 50 50 g. (2 oz., *t cup) chopped candied candied. lemon or orange peel, 1I teaorange peel, tei(l oz., if, cup) spices (ground spoon of soda, 25 g. (1 spoon bicarbonate bicarbonate of cloves, nutmeg and ginger). c1oves, nutmeg

flour, oz., 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., flour, 25

I

Method. Arrange flour in a ring on the table. Put the Arrange the floUf honey of the ring ring and work with a spatula. honey in the centre centre of spatula. Add all aIl the other other ingredients and knead knead weIl. well.

Put Put the the mixture in in rectangles rectangles on on well-buttered baking well-buttered baking trays. Bake Bake in the oven. oyen. Cut Cut into small rectangles rectangles and brush with milk milk just before before taking out of of the oven. oyen. LEEK. FoTREAU POIREAU - Hardy biennial biennial plan! plant, the origins origins of which LEEK. go back back a very long long way, which has never never been found found in its wild wild state state and and is is believed be1ieved to to be be a a cultivated cultivated variety variety of oriental garlic. garlic. The Egyptians Egyptians held held the leek in great esteem, as as did did the Romans. Nero Nero had leek soup served to him every day. The Romans. Romans attributed to leeks the property of imparting and Romans keeping up up the sonority of the voice, and it is is known that keeping Nero was was anxious to have a clear c1ear and and sonorous voice for Nero delivering his his orations. brations. delivering The leek leek has has little nutritional nutritional value value apart apart from being rich The in Vitamin Vitamin C and and containing containing aa variety variety of of mineral mineraI salts and aa in little iron. iron. Leekbouillon Leek bouillon is a diuretic. diuretic. little 550

LEMON LEMON of 24 24 skins of cIrRoN -- Blanch the coNFITURE DE Lemon Lemon jam. jam. CONFITURE DE CITRON the skins up Chop up them. Chop drain them. lemons. lemons. When When they they are are half ha If cooked drain the Cut the sieve. Cut through aa sieve. and rub them through half ha If the lemon skins and with and moisten moisten with rest into thin strips. Mix Mix these ingredients and in equal in of sugar sugar equal amount of an amount the juice juice of 8 lemons. Add Add an pan in in the same the same weight to the lemon skins. Cook in aa copper pan way as other other jams. jams. MANQUE. See MANQUÉ. AU CITRON cIrRoN - See M,c,I.rQut AU manqu6. MANQUÉ Lemon manqué. diced and add add diced mixture and for the the mixture sugar for lemon-flavoured sugar Use lemon-flavoured Use it. essence to it. teaspoon lemon essence or j teaspoon crystallised citron or! comou! mask mask itit comand tumed turned out, is baked baked and manqui is When the manqué When Frost until stiff. stiff. Frost sugar until pletely with egg whites whisked with sugar Dry in in the the nuts on on top. top. Dry icing sugar. sugar. Sprinkle pistachio nuts with icing brown. oven but do not brown. oyen (clrnoucoNFITE (CITRONDE CITRON cITRoN CONFITE fconcr DE Preserved lemon peel. ÉCORCE peel, from from which which the the lemon peel, pieces of fresh lemon of fresh Blanch pieces Nlr) - Blanch NAT) is used. zest is used. only the the zest In this way only removed. In this way pith has has been been removed. pith (q.v.). night Leave aIl all night syrup (q. Drain the pieces and put them in syrup v.). Leave the syrup. in the until itit peel and the syrup syrup until and cook cook the day take out the the peel take out Next day Next in aa drops in or until until itit drops 25o on on the the saccharometer saccharometer or measures 25° peel. Leave Leave to to soak soak the peel. Put back back the spoon. Put thread from the spoon. short short thread for several several operation for repeat the operation and repeat overnight again and in in syrup syrup ovemight point of of last time to the the point time to for the the last the syrup syrup for days, days, cooking cooking the crystallisation. crystallisation. 12 fine fine zest of of 12 Soak the the zest DE CITRON cITRoN -- Soak slRop DE Lemon Lemon syrup. syrup. SIROP (lf pints, juice. Prepare generous pints, generous litre (li Prepare 1I litre own juice. lem ons in lemons in their their own the saccharometer. 36" on on the saccharometer. quart) hot measuring 36° quart) hot sugar syrup measuring sugar syrup juice and days. for 55 to to 66 days. Leave for syrup. Leave zest to to this this syrup. Add and zest Add the the juice Filter. Filter. flavour to flavour This isis used used to DE CITRON cITRoN - This Lemon zEsrs DE Lemon zest. zest ZESTE grating the the skin skin preparations for for sweets by grating sweets by creams other preparations and other creams and with impregnated with becomes impregnated The sugar sugar becomes with lump of of sugar. sugar. The with aa lump put in mixture to to in the the mixture and isis then then put lemon and of the the lemon the tial oil essential oil of the essen be flavoured. be flavoured. in zest and and used used in lemon zest with lemon flavoured with Milk also be be flavoured Milk can can also flavour used to to flavour which isis used creams The zest zest which creams and and custards. custards. The prepared in in this way: preparations isis prepared this way: certain certain culinary culinary preparations knife. fruit with with aa sharp sharp knife. from the the fruit Remove zest from Remove the the zest put, chop zest chop the the zest to be be put, to which which itit isis to According According to to the the use use to ln the latter case, case, blanch blanch the the the latter finely, into fine fine strips. strips. In or slice slice itit into finely, or julienne, drain it. lem on julienne, and dry dry it. lemon drain and

water, oil oil and and lemon lemon juice, juice, spiced spiced with with coriander. coriander. (See (See water, euvre.) HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d' hors-d'œuvre.) HORS-D'(EUVRE, LeeksMornay. poIREALrx POIREAUX MoRNAY MORNAY - Cook the white white part LeeksMornay. of the the leeks leeks in butter. butter. Put them them into a fireproof fireproof dish dish on a of layer of Mornay souce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated layer cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown in the oven. oyen. cheese Velouté or cream cream of of leek. wtour6, VELOUTÉ, cniMe CRÈME DE DE PoIREAUX POIREAUX -Velout6 Recipes for these soups soups will be found in the section entitled entitled Recipes SOUPS AND BROTHS. SOUPS Leeks Ià la vinaigrette. poIREAux POIREAUX A À re LA vmltcnnrre VINAIGRETTE - Cook Leeks the white parts of the leeks in salted salted water. Drain and dry hors-d'œuvre dish dish and season season with oil, them, arrange in an hors-d'euvre pepper. vinegar, salt and pepper.

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LEFT-OVERS. nrsrss RESTES -- Sometimes Sometimes foodstuffs are served in LEFT-OVERS. at a example, they will be be served at large quantity when, for example, subsequent meal as co Id meat. meat. It is done with roast meat or cold subsequent or braised braised meat mode, for for example), example), la mode, poultry or d la meat (boeuf à when itit is intended to reheat reheat these these meats to serve them again. when

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LEGUMIN. rfcuraNs LÉGUMINE -- Proteid Proteid substance substance resembling LEGLTMIN. casein in pulses (peas, beans, less well lentils). It is is less beans, lentils). found in casein found assimilated than animal protein, protein, and combines to combines with chalk to assimilated forro insoluble deposit. For this reason pulses cannot be be form an insoluble satisfactorily satisfactorily cooked in hard water.

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Lemons Lcmons on on aa branch

LEMON. very acid acid and and lemon tree, tree, very Fruit of of the cITRoN -- Fruit the lemon LEMON. CITRON highly grows now grows India, but from India, but now It originally came from highly scented. originally came scented. It out in region and and extensively extensively in in the Mediterranean region out of of doors doors in the Mediterranean Califomia, U.S.A. California, U.S.A. The juice and in cooking cooking to to lemons are are used used in zest of of lemons The juice and the the zest flavour Various dishes. Various large number number of of dishes. and season flavour and season aa large creams, (the puddings and zest (the with the the zest are flavoured flavoured with and sauces sauces are creams, puddings outside juice isis used enhance the the part of The juice used to to enhance of the the skin). skin). The outside part flavour of certain di shes and and mayonnaise mayonnaise and to dishes season salads salads and to season flavourofcertain instead vinegar. instead of of vinegar. For for bavarois, bavarois, creams, creams, as aa flavouring flavouring for lemon as For the the use use of of lemon mousses, in their their words in puddings, sauces, see these these words sauces, soufflés, souffi6q see mousses, puddings, al pha betical order. order. alphabetical The of sorne conlemon isis aa matter matter of someconof the the lemon food value value of The food troversy; rich in in Vitamin Vitamin CCitit isis exceptionally rich however, being being exceptionally troversy; however, undoubtedly for scurvy. remedy for scurvy. undoubtedly the the specific specific remedy Lemon Lemon costard. c,ream AU CITRON Make aaCustard Custard c.ream custard. CRÈME cnirr,re AU cITRoN -- Make (see (see CREAMS) with which has has been been boiled boiled with milk which using milk CREAMS) using lemon or silk silk tammy. tammy. very fine finestrainer strainer or lemon zest. zest. Pass Pass through through aa very Lemon proA commercial commercial proDE CITRON cITRoN - - A EssENcE DE Lemon essence. essence. ESSENCE duct pdtissene in place of lemon fresh lemon in place of fresh in cooking and pâtisserie cooking and duct used used in juice. juice. ItIt isis very very concentrated. concentrated.

How grooveand Howtotogroove andslice slicea alemon lemon for garnishing forgarnishing

551 551

LEMONADE LEMONADE LEMONADE. CITRONNADE, crrnoNrqADE, LIMONADE LMoNADE - Drink Drink consisting consisting LEMONADE. juice, sugar lemon juice, of lemon and water. water. sugar and of Lemonade I.I. CITRONNADE crrnoxNl,on - - Dissolve Dissolve 250 250g.g.(9(9oz., o2.,2 cups) Lemonade 2 cups) lump sugar in 1 litre litre (li- pints, pints, generous generous quart) sugar in quart) filtered filtered lump juice and water. Add Add the and zest the juice zest of of 22 lernons lemons toto tbe thesyrup. syrup. water. Leave to to infuse infuse for for 33 hours hours in place. in aacool cool place. Leave Strain through through aa fine fine strainer. strainer.AA siphon siphon of of soda sodawater, water, or or Strain fresh water, water, can can be beadded added to to the lemonade. Serve the lemonade. Servecold coldand and fresh put aa slice lemon in glass. of lemon in each each glass. slice of put Lemonade II. IL LIMONADE rruoNloE CUITE currE - Cut lemon into Cut aa lemon into thin thin Lemonade Remove the slices. Remove Infuse for (scant the seeds. seeds. Infuse for 1I hour hour in! litre (seant in f litre slices. pint,2t cups) boiling boiling water. g. (1(l oz., water. Add Add 25 25 g. o2.,2 tablespoons) pint, 2* cups) 2 tablespoons) sugar. sugar. Fizry lemonade. lemonade. LIMONADE ranoNlDE GAZEUSE GAzEusE - This This lemonade lemonade isis Fizzy usually artificially artificially made made and and aerated aerated with with carbonic gas, carbonic acid acid gas, usually like manufactured manufactured soda soda water. water. ItIt isis sold sold in in bottles bottles or or siphons. siphons. like

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I

(lf

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Battlebetween between Carême (Lent)and Car6me (Lent) Battle andMardi-Gras Mardi-Gras (from an print) (from ury print) an18th I 8thcent century

from the lunch menu, the lunch menu, and from and ininthe theevening evening supper replaced supper was wasreplaced meal which by a meal which contained bya contained no noeggs, eggs, butter, anything of butter, or oranything ofaa live nature. nature. live The real real test The test of of culinary culinary art art was was to to create create aarigorously rigorously apostolic meal meal which apostolic which had had ail all the the appearances appearances of ofan an excellent excellent supper. supper. Little by little the Little by little the Church Church relaxed relaxed its its original original severity, severity, permitted the and permitted and the use use ofbutter of butter and and eggs eggs and, and, later, later, the the flesh flesh 'cold-blooded' animaIs, of ter, certain of 'cold-blooded' animals, such such as as fish. fish. Still Still lalater, certain game considered aquatic aquatic game considered to to be be cold-blooded, cold-blooded, such such as as tbe the pintail, scoter-duck, spoonbill, spoonbill, pintail, scoter-duck, moorhen, moorhen, coot, coot, teal, waterteal, waterrail, piper were rail, curlew, godwit and curlew, heron, heron, godwit and sand were allowed. sandpiper allowed. A st of A Lenten Lenten meal meal could could also also include include an an impressive impressive lilist of sumptuous oves, entrées sumptuous rem removes, entrdes and and roasts. roasts. Understood Understood in in these these terms terms the Lenten diet the Lenten diet does does not not differ differ from from normal normal diet diet from from the point ofview. the healtb health point of view. For For Lent Lent menus menlrs see FESTIVE COOKERY. see FESTIVE COOKERY. Lent 'Madame Victoire Lent anecdotes. anecdotes. CARÊME cARfiME ANECDOTIQUE ANEcDorreur --'Madame Victoire (sister of (sister good, sweet of Louis Louis XV), XV), good, sweet and and kindly, kindly, Iived lived in in the the most most refreshing refreshing simplicity simplicity in in aa society loved her society that that loved her dearly; dearly; her her household household adored (and withadored ber. her. ln In exemplary exemplary fashion fashion (and without out stirring from her luxurious bergère stirring from her luxurious bergbre in in Versailles) Versailles) she stre fulfilled fulfilled aIl all her her religious religious duties duties by giving aIl possessed to by gjving all she she possessed to the or and poor the po diligently observing and by by diligently observing fastings fastings and and Lent. knt. InIn fact, fact, the the same lady's table same lady's table was was so notd for for its its meagreness so noted meagreness that the parasite gourmets gounnets kept kept weil away from well away from it. it. ItIt was was not not that that Madame Madame Victoire Victoire did did not not appreciate good food, appreciate good food, but but she she had had the the strictest strictest religious religious scruples scruples conceming concerning what what should eaten during should be penance. 1I have be eaten during penance. have seen her tormented seen her tormented by by doubt doubt over over aa duck duck served served to her during during Lent. Lent. The to her The question was whether the the bird bird was was lean lean or or fat. fat. She She solicited solicited the the opinion of of aa bishop who who happened happened to to be be attending attending the the dinner. dinner. He He immediately immediately assumed assumed the the demeanour demeanour and and tone tone of aa judge judge at last court at the the last court of of appeal. appeal. He He told princess told the the princess that that doubts doubts such such as as these necessitated placing placing the these necessitated cooked the cooked bird juices bird upon upon aa very cold platter. If cold silver silver platter. If the creature's juices the creature's congealed congealed within quarter of udthin aa quarter of an an hour, hour, itit was was to to be be conconsidered fat; juices remained fat; if, if, on on the the other other band, hand, the remained liquid, the juices liquid, be eaten without it could could be without misgjving. misgiving. Madame Madame Victoire lost Victoire lost no time in putting the time in matter to the matter to the the test: test: the the juices did did not not congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was very congeal, a fact that delighted the princess since she was very partial to to that partial that particular type type of of wildfowl. wildfowl. The The truth truth was was that the the period period of that fasting which of fasting which Madame Madame Victoire Victoire so so diligently observed observed also diligently also upset upset her. her. She She waited waited impatiently impatiently for the midnight bell on the Saturday before Easter and saw for the midnight bell on the Saturday before Easter and saw to it it that that she immediately brought to she was was immediately plump fowl brought aa plump fowl with with rice and and other other succulent rice succulent dishes.' dishes.'

Lemon sole sole Lemon

LTMANDE-sore -- The The name lemon lemon sole LEMON SOLE. LIMANDE-SOLE sole is is aa corruption of of the French limande-sole. This the French This fisb corruption fish is is really really aa kind of dab dab but, but, unlike unlike the dab dab and and other other fiat flat fish kind of fish such such as as flounder elongated and oval in flounder and plaice, plaice, it is elongated in shape, shape, and and is is thus somewhat somewhat similar to aa sole in appearance. Some authorities authorities assert assert that lemon sole that lemon Sorne is very very little little sole is quality to the sole, but tbis inferior inferior in quality this opinion is is not not shared shared by who find find this by gastronomes, gastronomes, who this fish fish comparatively comparatively stringy stringy and and tasteless. tasteless. It It corresponds to yel/owtai! fiounder to the the yellowtail in flounder in u.s.A. U.S.A. (q.v.) and All (q.v.) are AlI recipes for brill (q.v.) and sole (q.v.) are suitable for for lemon lem on sole. sole.

LENT. clntus CARÊME - Forty-day fast fast imposed by by the the Catholic Catholic religion, from Ash Wednesday till tiU Easter. Easter. This period of This period fasting in the the early Church had excellent excellent physical effects by imposing imposing on the digestive system, wom gastronomic worn out by gastronomie excess excess during the the winter season, a much needed needed rest. Brillat-Savarin tell tell us us that that towards towards the tbe middle middle of of the eighteenth century century the normal r6gime régime in bourgeois families consisted consisted of of four meals: meals: Breakfast, Breakfast, which which took took place place before before 9 a.m. and consisted of bread, cheese, cheese, fruit, fruit, sometimes a pdtt pâté or cold co Id meat. (The bread, habit of drinking coffee had had not yet penetratd penetrated into prohabit vinciallife.) vincial life.) Lunch, Lunch, which which took took place place between between noon and and I1 p.m., with soup, the the boiled boiled meat meat of of the tbe pot-au-feu, pot-au-feu, and and vegetable vegetable soup, accompaniments according according to to the season. season. accompaniments Around 44 p.m. p.m. there there was was aa light light meal meal enjoyed as as aa rule by by Around the ladies ladies of of the the household household and the children. children. the Supper was was at at 8 p.-., p.m., wfih with entrde, entrée, roast, roast, side-dishes, side-dishes., Supper saI ad and and dessert. dessert. salad During Lent Lent breakfast breakfast was was omitted, omitted, meat meat was excluded During 552 552

LETTUCE LETTUCE The The word word 'lettuce' 'lettuce' comes cornes from from the the Latin Latin lactuca, lactuca, because because juice. lettuce, lettuce, when when itit isis cut, cut, exudes exudes aa milky milky juice. In In ancient ancient times, times, the the lettuce lettuce was was looked looked upon upon as as aa sacred sacred plant plant (it Ot figures figures in in the the Passover Passover ritual ritual of of the the Hebrews Hebrews at at the the same same time time as as the the Rome ancient favour in paschal paschal lamb). lamb). It It was was brought brought into into favour in ancient Rome by by Antonius Antonius Musa, Musa, physician physician to to the the Emperor Augustus. Augustus. stomach disof stomach cured him of Galen that this this plant plant cured disGalen asserts asserts that orders orders when when he he was was young. young. He He adds adds that that lettuce lettuce brought brought age. him him restful restful sleep sleep in in his his old old age. end at the the end served at lettuce was was usually Among Among the Romans, Romans, lettuce usually served the Domitian, the Emperor Domitian, Under the of of the the evening meal. meal. Under the Emperor lettuce serve lettuce to serve customary to fashion fashion changed and and it it became became customary meal. of the the meal. at the beginning of when lettuce, especially when regarded lettuce, The The Romans now now regarded so took to serving it and so appetiser, and as an an appetiser, salad, as dressed as as aa salad, an hors-d'oeuvre. as an as hors-d'oeuvre. in win winter. year round, except in round, except all the the year in season season al! Lettuce is is in ter. in salads. salads. raw, in eaten raw, be eaten can be varieties can common varieties All Ali the the common cos but cos used in cookery, but are mainly used lettuces are Cabbage lettuces Cabbage like be cooked. cooked. Lettuce can be braised, like also be lettuces can can also lettuces endive. AU GRAS GRAS -nnclsfEs AU LAlruES BRAISÉES meat stock. stock. LAITUES in Meat lettuce in Braised lettuce Braised leaves. green outer outer leaves. the tough tough green Trim the lettuces by removing the Trim under them under Cool them water' Cool in salt salt water. minutes in for 55 minutes Parboil them them for Parboil water' all the the water. extract ail leaves to to extract the leaves Squeeze the running water. water. Squeeze running lettuces together. together. or 33 lettuces Tie 22 or onions rinds, sliced sliced onions bacon rinds, line itit with with bacon and line pan and Butter aa pan rather pan. Coyer with rather Cover with in this lettuces in this pan. Lay the the lettuces and carrots. carrots. Lay and moderate in aa moderate and cook cook in Cover and boil. Coyer to the the boil. fat stock. stock. Bring to fat for 50 50 minutes. oven for oyen half, in half, each in Cut each them. Cut untie them. and untie lettuces, and Drain the the lettuces, Drain half fold each each half and fold ends and at both leaves at both ends Trim the the leaves lengthwise. Trim lengthwise. through aa strain itit through stock, strain cooking stock, down the the cooking Boil down in two. two. Boil in lettuces. pour over the lettuces. over the and pour fine sieve, sieve, and fine as are' as as they theyare, servedas can be be served prepared in way can in this this way Lettuces prepared Lettuces may be or may be main dishes, dishes, or various main for various a vegetable, as a garnish for indicated below. below. asindicated sauces as various sauces cooked further with various AU MAIGRE MAIGRE -nnalsfss AU LAITUES BRAISÉES lettuce. LAITUES braised lettuce. Vegetarian braised Vegetarian with Moisten with rind. Moisten bacon rind. the bacon omitting the above, omitting as above, Proceed as Proceed of stock. stock. instead of water instead water Arrange Mosrrg - - Arrange rl MOELLE LAITUES ÀALA bone-matrow. LAITUES with bone-marrow. Lettuce witb Lettuce pie dish, alternating dish, alternating in aashallow shallow pie circle in lettuces in in aa circIe braised lettuces braised each on top top ofof each Put on butter. Put fried inin butter. of bread bread fried with sUces slices of with littleDemiDemiAdd aalittle marrow. Add poached beef beef marrow. of poached lettuce 22slices slices of lettuce Boildown down stock. Boil (seeSAUCE) the braising braising stock. to the glace sauce SAUCE) to sauce (see glace pour over dish' Sprinkle Sprinkle overthe thedish. and pour strain and add butter, butter, strain stock, add the the stock, marrow. ofmarrow. eachslice sliceof ofeach parsley ontop top of little chopped parsleyon aalittle NoISETTE - AUBEURRE BEURRENOISETTE LAITUES AU butter. LAITUES Lettuce Lettuce in browned butter. the Arrange ininthe rollthem. androll them'Arrange halveand andhalve lettuces,and Braise the Braise the lettuces, pouraafew few serving, pour Beforeserving, dish. Before rosette on on aadish. form formof of aa rosette (seeBUTTER) overthem. them. BUTTER) over Brownbutter butter (see tablespoons tablespoons Brown EN garnishing. LAITUES LAITUES EN forgarnishing. butterfor lettuceininbutter oflettuce Chiffonnade Chiffonnade of and finely44trimmed trimmedand veryfinely Shredvery BEURRE - - Shred AUBEURRE cHIFFoNNADE AU CHIFFONNADE with22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3 Put them themininaa panwith lettuces.Put washed washedlettuces. with Moistenwith salt.Moisten tablesalt. Season withtable butter. Season tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. (q.v.).Coyer and Coverand (scant * cup) bouillon (g.v.). cup)bouillon 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant forwhatever whatever recipefor therecipe indicated ininthe gently. Use Useasasindicated simmer simmer gently. with this this garnish. beserved servedwith main maindish dishisistotobe cHIFFoNENCHIFFONLAITUESEN forcold cold dishes.LAITUES lettuce for oflettuce Chiffonnade Chifronnade of lettuces. washedlettuces. andwashed trimmed and sometrimmed NADE finelysorne veryfinely NADE- -Shred Shredvery oil, withoil, moisture.Season Seasonwith extractailallmoisture. Squeeze themtotoextract Squeeze them pepper. vinegar, andpepper. vinegar,salt saltand and decoratesalads saladsand mainlytotodecorate usedmainly This chffinnade isisused Thischiffonnade poultry. mayonnaise fish,shellfish shellfishororpoultry. mayonnaiseofoffish, EN garnish.LAITUES LAITUESEN withcream creamasasgarnish. lettucewith Chiffonnade Chifronnadeofoflettuce finelyshredded shredded andcook cookfinely Prepareand CHIFFONNADE rACRÈME cRtME- -Prepare cHTFFoNNADE ÀALÀ recipe. precedingrecipe. lettuce forthe lettuceasasfor thepreceding pint, withItlf dl.dl.(t$pint, moistenititwith When lettuceisissoft, soft,moisten Whenthe thelettuce

'Desbarreaux, 'Desbarreaux, upon hearing a peal of of thunder thunder while while eating eating aa bacon bacon omelette, opened the window window and and flung flung his his plate plate out out into into the the night night muttering: muttering: "All "Ali that that fuss fuss just just for for an an omelette!" !"', omelette 'One 'One town town celebrated celebrated Lent Lent with with aa procession procession in in which which aa beautiful, frail frail young maid ma id played played the the part of of a a poor, poor, beautiful, wretched, barefooted girl. girl. The The moment moment the procession was was wretched, over, the the hypocrite hypocrite went went off off to to dine with with her lover lover on on aa over, quarter quarter of of lamb lamb and and aa ham. ham. The The odour odour of of these these drifted drifted down down the street, street, whereupon whereupon several several people went went up up to to the the room room the where she she was was enjoying herself and dragged her her downstairs, downstairs, where through the the town town with with the the spither to to parade through obliging her quarter of lamb slung round her shoulders and the roasted quarter ham strung strung round round her her neck.' neck.' (Brant6me.) ham LENTIL. LENTILLE LENTILLE -- A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous seed), originally originally LENTIL. from central Asia, Asia, where it was was cultivated in in prehistoric prehistoric from times. There There are are numerous numerous varieties. This vegetable vegetable contains times.

than any other; other; 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) provide 337 more protein than more calories. calories. salts, especially phosphorous Lentils are rich in mineral salts, recommended for children, and iron. They are particularly recommended anaemics, nursing and mothers, provided that and expectant mothers, anaemics, advisable is advisable none of these suffers from digestive troubles. It is purée them or to mix them with potatoes to counteract to pur6e husks. the effect of the unassimilable lentil husks' for as for lenn.s. CUISSON DEs LENTILLES. LENTILLTs. Proceed as culssoN DES Cooking of lentils. lentils must must be be (see BEAN). Dried white beans these, lentils Like these, BEAN). Like beans (see long. If If for long. not for Id water but not soaked water before cooking, but in co cold soaked in germinate, which to germinate, long, they they begin to are soaked soaked too too long, they are more least more at least not actually actually poisonous, at if not renders them, them, if difficuIt difficult to digest. be lentils can can be After cooking vegetable stock, stock, lentils or vegetable meat or in meat cooking in prepared in beans. suitable for dried white beans. in any way suitable LENTISK. family as as the the same family Bush of of the the same LENTISK. LENTISQUE LENTIseLiE -- Bush turpentine Its grown in Archipelago. Its Greek Archipelago. It isis grown in the the Greek turpentine tree. tree. It fruit yields an collected as mastic mastic is is col!ected resin known known as edible oil. oil. A resin an edible from its trunk This resin resin isis used used in it. it. This incisions in trunk by by making incisions to Raki. known as as Raki. the spirit spirit known to flavour the produced LÉOGNAN Graves wines wines produced excellent Graves Among the the excellent LEOGNAN -- Among ut-Bailly, in are the the Château-Ha Chflteau-Haut-Bailly, commune are in this Gironde commune this Gironde Château-Carbonnieux, Chiteaude Chevalier, Chevalier, ChâteauDomaine de Chdteau-Carbonnieux, Domaine Malartic-Lagravière and Château-Olivier. Chflteau-Olivier. Malartic-Lagravidre and

LÉOVILLE among the the second second wine c1assed classed among Bordeaux wine R ed Bordeaux Lf,OVILLE -- Red growths wines. great Médoc M6doc wines. growths of of the the great Léoville-Las-Cases, L6ovilleand LéovilleL6oville-Poyferr6 and L6oville-Las-Cases, Léoville-Poyferré Barton, are of Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, are commune of made in in the the commune are made Bafton. which which are highly prized by connoisseurs. highly prized by connoisseurs. LEPIOTA. number which aa number fungus of of which of fungus lfptorn -- Species of LEPIOTA. LÉPIOTE of the France being being the best-known inin France edible, the best-known varieties are are edible, of varieties cultivated coulemelle. known as as the the coulemelle. also known lepiota,also cultivated lepiota, LEPIDOSTEUS peculiarity of of The peculiarity (Gar-pike). LEPIDOSTÉE rnrmosr6E - - The LEPIDOSTEUS (Gar-pike). this so that pebblyscales, thatitit isis scales,so very hard, hard, pebbly has very fish isis that that itit has this fish encased ofarmour. armour. suit of in aaveritable veritable suit encased in ItIt isisto America. ofCentral Central America. lakesof rivers and andlakes found inin the the rivers to be be found Its (q.v.)are pike(g.v.) are for pike recipes for All recipes delicate. Ali fairly delicate. Its flesh flesh isis fairly suitable dish. for this this dish. suitable for

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LES CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LAUMES -- See LES LAUMES LESSER CELANDINE. are leavesare TIFSSER CELANDIhIE. FICAIRE whoseleaves Plantwhose FIcAIRE - - Plant s~metimes They are arecooked cooked inin blanched. They after being being blanched. eaten after sometimes eaten the (q.v.). wayasasspinach spinach(g.v.). thesame sameway LETTUCE. over wildallallover Plant whicb which grows wild LAITTJE- - Plant LETTUCE. LAITUE Europe, cultivated hasbeen beencultivated India. Ithas andininIndia. Caucasusand Europe, ininthe theCaucasus ininEgypt fromtime immemorial. timeimmemorial. China from Egypt and andChina 553 553

LEVERET LEVERET crga+-. Simmer for a few minutes. Serve as garnish t3:yp) CUp) cream. Simmer for a few minutes. Serve as garnish with a suitable main dish. with a suitable main dish. Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian cookery). LArrrrtsr coLBERr Lettuce Colbert (Vegetarian cookery). LAITUES COLBERT Cook the lettuces

LIAISON --See SeeTHICKENING. THICKENING. LIAISON

(ALA) LffiGEOISE (A tA) - - Method Methodof ofcooking, cooking, applied toto LIÉGEOISE various foodstuffs. foodstuffs. Its Itscharacteristic characteristic feature featureisis theuse useof of various jgniper flavouring. (SeeOFF flavouring. (See OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETYMEATS, MEATS, juniper AL or Calves' kidneys kidneys àd lala liégeoise; liigeorbe;THRUSH, THRUSH,Thrushes Thrushes àd lala Calves' liigeoise.) liégeoise.) LIGHTEN. DÉTENDRE ofrnNons - - To To make make aamixture mixture lighter lighter by by the LIGHTEN. the addition of of eggs eggs or or sorne some Iiquid. liquid. addition

butter ininaacovered covered pan. pan. Drain Drain and and Cook the lettuces inin butter

halve them. Fold the halves into pear shapes. Squeeze them halve them. Fold the ha Ives into shapes. Squeeze them gently, dip in egg and breadcrumbs, and deepfry. gently, dip in egg and and deep-fry. Arrange them inin aa circle circle on on aa dish, dish, and and coyer cover with with Arrange them Maitre th6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). Maître d'hôtel butter (see Compound butters). Creamed lettuce. LArTuEs A r-l cninre - Halve or quarter Creamed Jettuce. LAITUES À LA - Halve or quarter braised lettuces they are too big and arrange them neatly braised lettuces ifif they are too big and arrange them in buttered frying pan. Simmer frying pan. for 55 minutes. Simmer for minutes. Coyer Cover with in aa buttered boiling fresh fresh cre cream and simmer simmer until until this this isis reduced reduced by by boiling am and half. Arrange the lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternathalf. Arrange the lettuces in a shallow serving dish, alternating them with crottons of fried bread. Coat with the cream. them with croûtons of fried bread. Coat with the cream. Deep,fried lettuce. LArr{JEs EN FRrror Braise the lettuces Ue,eD-In~~ lettuce. LAITUES EN FRITOT -- Braise the Iettuces as for Braised lettuce. Fold the quarters and put them in a as for lettuce. Fold the quarters and put them in a dish. Season with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Leave dish. Season with oil, lemon juice, salt and pepper. Leave them in ttris marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving, them in this marinade for 30 minutes. Just before serving, dip them in a light batter and deep-fry. Garnish with fried dip them in a light batter and deep-fry. Garnish with fried parsley. parsIey. I-ettuce au gratin (in white sauce). LArruEs AU GRATTN LAITUES AU GRATiN Lettuce au pour Arrange lettuces in aa gratin gratin dish. dish. Pour Arrange halved braised lettuces (sre Mornay smtce SAUCE) over them. Sprinkle grated with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) over them. Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown. cheese, pour on melted butter, and brown. Lettuoe in grery. LArrr.'Es AU rus - Braise lettuces, halve LAITUES AU JUS - Braise lettuces, halve Lettuce in place them in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a them, and them, and in a buttered pan. Sprinkle with a few tablespoons of well-seasoned brown veal stock. Simmer. few tablespoons ofwell-seasoned brown veal stock. Simmer. Arange the lettuces lettuces in a ring, alternating with slices of Arrange the in a ring, alternating with slices of bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking stock, stock, add add bread butter and pour over the dish. butter and over the dish. Lettuce i ]a la hollandaise. hollandaise. LAITUES rlrrum ÀA LA u HOLLANDAISE norr,ANDArsE -Lettuce Arrange on on a dish, alternating with slices of bread fried in a dish, with slices of bread fried in butter, halved lettuces lettuces braised in in aa vegetable stock. stock. Coyer Cover butter, with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE, Cold sauces). with Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE, sauces). proc€ed as Lettuce ài l'italienne. LArruEs À A L'ITALIENNE r'n^e,LENNe Lettuce l'italienne. LAITUES - Proceed as for Lettuce gravy, in (see using ltalian sauce SAUCE) for Lettuce in gravy, using Italian sauce (see SAUCE) instead of the stock. instead of the stock. Lettuce MoRNAy - ke LAITUES MORNAY See Lettuce Le/tuce cu au gratin gratin Lettuce Mornay. Mornay. LArrrrrs (in white sauce). (in white sauce). punng Lettue LArruE - Sieve Lettuce pur&. purée. PURÉE DE DE LAITUE Sieve lettuces lettuces braised braised in in meat meat or or vegetable vegetable stock stock through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this pur6e. To give it body, add a few tablespoons ofconcentrated purée. To give it body, add a few tab.Jespo()llS and strained Bichamel sauce (ser, SAUCE). Season. Mix and strained Béchamel sauce (see ...,"' ...". . . L,'. Season. Mix and add butter. and add butter. Mashed potatoes can be added, as they can be added to the Mashed potatoes can he added, as they can he added to the pur6es of all watery vegetables. purées of ail watery vegetables. Lettuce sNhd. sALADE DE LArruE - See SALAD. Lettuce salad. SALADE DE LAITUE See SALAD. Lettuce sorff6. sourrlf DE LArruRE - Made with puree of Lettuce soufflé. SOUFFLÉ DE LAITURE - Made with purée of lettuce in the same way as for Endive soufi| (see nNDM;. lettuce in the same way as for Endive soufflé (see ENDIVE). Lettuce soulr. porAcE DE LArruE - See SOUPS AND Lettuce POTAGE DE LAITUE - See SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purie of lettuce soup. BROTHS, of lettuce soup. Stuffed lettuce. LArruEt FARcrEs- Blanch the lettuces. Cool Stutfed lettuce. LAITUES FARCIES - Blanch the lettuces. Cool under under running running water water and and squeeze squeeze dry. dry. Slit SHt them them in in half half without cutting the stump. without cutting the stump. Season Season them them inside. inside. Fill Fil! each each lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with &txelles (q.v.). lettuce with a fine forcemeat mixed with duxelles (q.v.). Each piece of mixed forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Each piece of mixed forcemeat should be the size of an egg. Close up the lettuces, tie, and braise them. Close the lettuces, tie, and braise them. Stuffed lettuce can be served as a vegetable, arranged in a lettuce can be served as a vegetable, <1U<1Ul;;C;U in a circle on a dish with fried bread between and covered with with circle on a dish with fried bread between and any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish. any suitable sauce, or it may be used as a garnish. Lettue DE LArruE Lettuce stumps. MoELLE MOELLE DE LAITUE -- The The stumps of of cos cos lettuces which have gone to seed are mainly used. These lettuces which gone to seed are mainly These st-umps, after trimming, are cooked like asparagus, or in any stumps, after trimming, are cooked like ""1.......... 0 ... ." of the ways suitable for artichoke stalks or endive stumps. of the ways suitable for artichoke stalks or

LIGHTS. MOU Mou - - In In the the tripe tripe trade trade this this term term isis used used to LIGHTS. to lungs of the lungs of certain certain animais. animals. For preparation For the the preparation the -VARIETY of lambs' and and calves' calves' lights, lights, see see OFF OFFAL or VARlETY AL or MEATS.

designate "'''',>AM''''''''''"'

LIMANDELLE -- AA Hat flat fish, fish, also also called called cardine cardine or mdre de or mère de LIMANDELLE sole,very good good to to eat. eat. ItIt has has an an elongated elongated oval oval body, body, about about sole, (10 to 25 to to 35 cm. cm. 00 to 14 14 inches) inches) long, long, with with fragile, fragile, shaded shaded 25 Its eyes scales. Its placed on eyes are are placed on the left side, the left side, wruch which isis pale scales. yellow with with brown brown shading. shading. Its Its blind blind siside white. All de isis white. yellow (q.v.) and recipes for for plaice plaice (q.v.) (q.v.) are and brill brill (q.v.) are suitable suitable for for this this fish.

LIME. LIMON LrMoN -- Thin-skinned Thin-skinned citrus citrus fruit. fruit. LIME. Lime tree. tree. TILLEUL TTLLETJL -- Tree Tree of of which which there there are are several several Lime species in in Europe. The The scented scented Howers flowers are are used in infusions used in infusions for their their soothing and and antispasmodic antispasmodic propenies. properties. The The American species (Tilia Americana) Americana) is is called called aa linden linden tree. The flowers are also also used used in in pastry-making and and confectionery to flavour creams, to Havour creams, ices ices and sweets (desserts) of tp,..t"'Inp,c" various kinds. LIMONADIERS -- Name Name given in in France in in former former times LIMONADIERS to sellers sellers of non-alcoholic drinks. In of non-alcoholic In the the Middle Ages Ages the to only drinks drinks available available were beer, beeE hippocras (mead), sweet or only h91V win wines. Anyone was was free free to to stock stock and and sel! sell wines, heavy es. Anyone without seeking seeking permission of any any authority. authority. In In the without permission of the sixte91th teenth century, century, spirits began began to be widely drunk. They were sold by small glassful sold by the the smalJ glassful at vinegar shops. It was It was the the Italians, Italians, many of whom fofowed Catherine de Medici Medici into into France, France, who who introduced a a number number of entirelv entirely new Among these these were lemonade, orangeade, orangeade, bitte-r bitter new drinks. drinks. Among citror citron cordial, cordial, frangipane frangipane water, sherbets, popilo, populo, etc. The drink drink which which found found most most favour favour with the public was lemonlemonade, ade, and and the the name name limotadiers limonadiers stuck to ihop shop keepers who who sold sold other other drinks drinks as as well. weil. LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN -- See See MARCHE MARCHE AND AND LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSIN. LIMOUSII\E (A LA) LIMOUSINE (A LA) - Method Method of of preparing nrpnllT',na red cabbage. Cuts Cuts of of meat meat and and poultry poultry garnished garnislhed with red cabbige

cooked cooked in in this this way way are are also also called d la limousine.

LIMOUX, LIMOUX, BLANQUETIE BLANQUETIE DE DE - Sparkling Sparkling wine, wine, fairly fairly heavy, at Limoux Limoux in in the the Aude Aude district. district. heavy, made made at

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LIMPET. LIMPET. BERNTcLE BERNICLE -- See See BARNACLE. BARNACLE. LII\E. LINE. FoNcER FONCER -- To To cover coyer the the bottom bottom of of a a stewpan stewpan or or saucepan sauce pan with with strips of of bacon bacon and and rounds rounds of of vegetables; vegetables; or or to to cover cover the the inside of of aa terrine terrine with with strips of of pork fat; fat; or or to to cover coyer the the sides sides and and bottom bottom of of aa mould or or dish with with pastry. pastry.

LING. LING.LTNGTJE LINGUE-- Fish Fish of ofthe the cod cod family, also called sea burbot or or long long cod.It cod. Itisisfished fished inin the the same same latitudes as ascod. cod. ItItisis quite quite good good to to eat, eat, isis often often salted salted like Iike cod, cod, and and isis prepared prepared in in the the same cod (q.v.) (q.v.) or orcodling. codling. same way way as as cod In In U.S.A. U.S.A. the the name name ling Jing isis sometimes sometimes given given to to the the freshfreshwater waterburbot. burbot.

LEVERET. LEVERET. LEVRAUT LEVRAUT-- Young Young hare. hare. (See (SeeHARE.) HARE.)

LINNET. LINNET. LrNor-LrNorrs LINOT-LfNOTTE-- Small, Small, edible edible but but rather rathertasteless tasteless bird on linseed linseed or or hempseed. hempseed. ItIt isis prepared prepared in in bird which which feeds feeds on

LE\/R,OUX LEVROUX-- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE.

the the same sameway wayas aslark lark(q.v.). (q.v.). 554 554

LIQUEUR LIQUEUR Leave Leave to to stand stand for for several several days, days, until until the the liqueur liqueur is is clear. clear. Strain Strain through muslin. muslin. Apricot Apricot liqueur. LIQUELJR LIQUEUR D'ABRtcor D'ABRICOT - Ingredients. Ingredients. 30 30 apricots, apricots, 4 4 litres (3f Oi quarts, quarts, 4| 4! quarts) quarts) white white wine, wine, I1 kg' kg. quart) (If, generous pints, (t+ (2i lb., lb., 4f 4t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, I1 litre litre Oi pints, generous quart) 58" 58° (US (US 66") 66°) proof proof spirits, spirits, It tablespoons tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) cinnamon. cinnamon. the Moisten with apricots in Method. Method. Put Put the the apricots in aa large pan. Moisten with the white white wine and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Add the sugar, cinnamon and spirits. for infuse for to infuse and leave Cover and heat. Cover off the Take the pan pan off the heat. leave to bottles tightly. tightly. the bottles Cork the 4 days. Strain, Strain, filter, filter, and and bottle. bottle. Cork Keep in a dry place. place. Ingredients' DE CASSIS cAssls - Ingredients. rtQurun DE I. LIQUEUR Blackcurrant Bhlck.cwrralllt liqueur liqueur 1. (2i lb.) lb.) blackblack' kg. (2i quart) spirits, (lt pints, generous quart) pints, generous spirits, 1I kg. I1 litre litre (li ($ oz.) g. (faoz.) clove, 1I g. g. (tt sugar, 1I c1ove, tU. 31 iSO g. 4 cups) currants, 750 (li lb. sugar, l0 blackblackflavour, add add 10 give aa"ups) To give stronger flavour, stick. To cinnamon stick. cinnamon top branches. branches. from the the top the greenest available, from currant leaves, the currant leaves blackcurrant leaves cinnamon and Put the and blackcurrant the clove, cinnamon Method. Put picked over and over and blackcurrants, picked lay the blackcurrants, top lay On top in aa bowl. bowl. On in add mix, add them, mix, over them, the spirits spirits over hand. Pour the well crushed crushed by hand. weil and mixture in in aa stone jar and the mixture again. Put the and mu mix again. the sugar and (in the for the sun, sun, if possible) for warm place (in seal. Keep the jar in aa warm seal. of infusion. At the end of ensure aa thorough infusion. at least 1I month to ensure at bowl, over aa bowl. sieve over liqueur through aa sieve the liqueur strain the time strain this time this linen pulp in coarse linen in aa coarse squeezing the pulp liquid by all liquid by squeezing Extract aIl Extract cloth. c1oth. liqueur. the liqueur. and bottle bottle the Filter and sugaq dissolve the the sugar, help dissolve to heip not be be added added to Water should should not Water of the the liqueur. content of alcohol content the alcohol would lower lower the since this this would since (18 oz., cups) g. (18 oz., 2$ cups) plain syrup of of 500 500 g. add aa plain If too too strong, strong, add If (scant pint, cold. water. Dissolve Dissolve cold. pint, 2f cups) cups) water. litre (scant to f litre sugar to sugar DE CASSIS cAssls LIQUEUR DE recipe). LIQUEUR liquern 0tr (old recipe). Blackcurrant liqueur Blackcurrant each of of (2* lb.) teaspoon each lb.) blackcurrants, 1 teaspoon kg. (2i Infuse 1 kg. Infuse (51 pints, pints, 6t litres (5! ground c10ves and ground cinnamono 33 litres cloves and (lf lb., inaaiar.l*ave g. (l~ sugar in lb., 3! 3| cups) sugar pints) spirits and 750 g. spirits and jar. Leave day. every day. for 15 15 days, days, mixing mixing every perfectly c1ear, clear, when perfectly and, when filter, and, muslin, filter, through muslin, Strain through Strain bottle. bottle. RATAFIA D'OEILLETD'oEILLET ratafia. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA or ratafia. liquern or Carnation liqueur Carnation quart) alcohol, 39' alcohol, atat 39° pints, generous quart) litre (Ii pints, Steep in in 1I litre Steep (9 oz.) carnation petals.Spice Spice with with aa g. (9 (US,|4') carnation petais. proof, 250 250 g. (US 44°) proof, then for 1I mon month, Leave for cinnamon. Leave clove and and -!- teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon. c10ve th, then filter. filter. (18 oz., cups) sugar and 2l cups) oz., 2* from 500 500 g.g.(18 made from Add aa syrup made Add (scant pint,2t onc€ more. more. Bottle. water. Filter Filter once litre (scant ! litre 2* cups) water. DECERISE cERlsERATAFIA DE LIQUEUR, RATAFIA liqueur or or ratafia. LIQUEUR, Cherry liqueur Cherry with the stones. thestones. cherries with (8t lb.) lb.) Montmorency Montmorency cherries Crush 4a kg. kg. (8i Crush for44days. days. ferment for leave to to ferment and leave in aa bowl bowl and Put them them in Put (US44°) 44") 39"(US alcohol,39° quafts, 4f quarts) alcohol, litres (3* quarts, Add 44 litres Add themixture mixture Put the sugar. Put proof spirit, and ke.Qilb, and1I kg. (2! lb., +cups) sugar. jar and through Squeezethrough for aamonth. month. Squeeze leavetotoinfuse infuse for and leave inaajar bottle. Filter and andboule. muslin. muslin. Filter sfle. LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, Grenoble style. ratafia, Grenoble liquern oror ratafia, Cherry Cherryliqueur Infuse inin22 cRENoBLE - Infuse regoN DE DEGRENOBLE DECERISE RATAFIA RATAFTA DE cERIsEÀALA fAÇON cup)blanched 125g.g.(4(4oz., o2.,3 blanched pints)brandy pints,4! 4|pints) brandy125 Jcup) litres litres (3|pints, (*oz.) leaves,1I orleaves, peachblossom blossomor 10 g.H oz.)peach kernels, 10 cherry cherrystone stone kernels, tf',,~nr,r.n cinnamon,1212 cloves. teaspoon cinnamon, withthe the brandy isis thoroughly impregnated with When the thebrandy (3fpints, pints, pour it over 2 litresOi ingredients, pour aroma these ingredients, aromaofofthese (18oz., juice with 2fcups) cups)sugar oz.,2i sugar with500 500g.g.(18 pints) cherry 4-!4|pints) cherry juice andbottle. bottle. Filter and dissolved Mix.Filter dissolved ininil.it.Mix. DE RATAFIADE LIQUEUR,RATAFIA stones.LIQUEUR, cherrystones. Liqueur ratafiaofofcherry Liqueurororratafia fromthe thestones stonesofof canhe bemade madefrom Thiscan NOY AUX DE DECERISES cERIsEs - -This NoyAux cherries cherriesused used for jam-making. quite dry, crush arequite theyare Wash dry thestones. anddry stones. Whenthey Washand allowing1Ikg. kg. (2| lb., them. infuseininalcohol, alcohol,allowing Putthem themtatoinfuse them.Put quart) spirits. (If,pints, generousquart) pints,generous litre(li 66cups) cups)stones stonestoto1Ilitre

LION LION-- Lion Lion meat, meat, though though edible, edible, isis seldom seldom used used in in cookery. cookery. rather tasteless tasteless and and must must be be steeped steeped in in an an aromatic aromatic ItIt isis rather marinade before before cooking. cooking. marinade Ali recipes recipes for for beef beef (q.v.) (q.v.) are are suitable suitable for for lion. lion. All

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~ ............,""'.'-"" - Name Name given given to to various various composite alcoholic alcoholic LIQLIELTR of spirits spirits Nowadays these these are are made made from from aa mixture of drinks. Nowadays and syrups. syrups. There There are are innumerable innumerable liqueurs liqueurs with with many many and different names. names. Their Their alcoholic alcoholic content content varies. varies. different can be be made made in the the home. home. Their quality quality varies varies Liqueurs can ae<:or,Olntg to ta the the spirits or alcohol alcohol used. used. according Ali home-made home-made liqueurs are made made by steeping fruit and All other basic basic ingredients ingredients in alcohol alcohol or spirits. The best spirits spmts other to use use are 80°) proof. Liqueurs made in this way 70' (US 80") are 70° to are often often called ratafias. ratafias. are 1. uQurun, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA D'AcAcIA D'ACACIA * Acacia liqueur or ratafia I. oz-) Remove stalks from acacia flowers and steep 100 g. (4 (4 oz.) Remove the flowers in I1 litre (lt pints, generous quart) spirits, of the preferably white, white, proof proof 88' (US 100'). preferably to infuse infuse for for 1 mont[ month, keeping the the hermetically hermetically Leave to container in a warm warm place. sealed container of a month add g. (4 oz., i* cup) sugar. Stir add 125 g' At the end of ail the sugar has dissolved. This takes from time to time until all and bottle. through filter paper, and about 2 weeks. Filter through LIQLJEUR, RATAFIA 0 (old rectpe). recipe). LIQUEUR, RATAfIA Acacia liqueur or ratafia tr (7 oz.) dish in aa deep dish D'ACACIA - Put g. (7 oz) acacia acacra flowers in Put 200 g. D'AcAcIA with alternate layers of fine sugar. Steep Steep for 24 hours. (scant pint, generous cup) water Moisten 2+ dl. dl. (seant Moisten with with 2i and the strained liquid aa syrup made with Add to to the and strain. strain, Add g. 750 g. sugar -- 750 (t pint, it cup) water and the the remaining sugar 1+ dl. (i (1 pint, pint' dl. (1 add 66 dl. (l+ lb., 3 cups) in ail. all. Finally, add are needed in cups) are 2| cups) cups) spirits. and bottle. few months. Filter and Leave to to steep steep for aa few n'lNctltqun RATAFIA D'ANGÉLIQUE LIQUEIR, RATAfIA Angelica liqueur liqueur or ratafia. LIQUEUR, (21b., 77 cups) lump cups) lump (21b.) angelica, 900 g. (2Ib., g. (2Ib.) angelica, 900 900 g. Ingredients. 900 - Inffrediem's. (2 sugar,5 l| tablespoons tablespoons (2 quarts) spirits, li quarts, 5t 5j quarts) sugar, 5 litres (4| quarts, clove, tlitre tablespoons) teaspoon nutmeg, nutmeg, 1I c1ove, tablespoons) cinlimon, 1l leaspoon { litre (scant ps) filtered water. water. (scant pint, 2i cups) 2] cu Method. pieces and and put them them into small small pieces angelica into Cut the the angeliea Method. Cut together with ingredients in a and other other m~~relillents with the the sugar, spirits, and jar. Seal leave for 2 months. and leave large jar. the jar hermetically and Seal the Press the the large bowl. over aa large bowl. Press strainer over Sieve through through aa fine strainer juice. pieces all the extract ail the juice. pieces of of angelica angelica to to extraet Filter through and keep keep at well, and at cork weil, Bottle, cork filter paper. Bottle, through filter aa moderate cellar. rather than than aa cellar. moderate temperature, temperature, in a cupboard rather Anise RATAFIA r,tQunuR, RATAFIA or anisette anisette liquern or rataffa 1.I. LIQUEUR, Anise or D'ANIS green, crushed anise, (,wrserrr) - Put 25 g. (10 oz.) crushed anise, oz.) green, 25 g. D'ANIS (ANISETTE) (2 tablespoons) teaspoon tablespoons) tablespoons (2 cinnamon, li tablespoons teaspoon cinnamon, quart) spirits. coriander generous quart) pints, generous spirits. litre (Ii pints, into 1 litre coriander into Infuse th. Add (18 oz., sugar cups) sugar oz., 2* 2| cups) 500 g. (18 Infuse for for 1I mon month. Add 500 dissolved Filter and bottle. bottle. water. Filter dissolved in in aa !iUle little water. Anise D'ANIS RATAFIA D'ANIS t"tQusuR, RATAFIA liquern or or ratafia ratafia II. LIQUEUR, Anise liqueur Make kg. (st litre (1 i (51 lb., and 1I litre cups) sugar sugar and lb., III I cups) of2i Ztkg. Make aa syrup syrup of pints, muslin. quart) water. Strain through through muslin. gerierous quart) water. Strain pints, generous Dissolve oz.) anise, I g.g. (eboz.) (lt oz.) essence of Chinese anise, of Chinese oz.) essence Dissolve 33g.g. (io mon, essence (-r oz.) cinnamon, oz.) essence of cinna orange, t g.g.
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LIQUEUR white alcohol. alcohol. Leave Leave toto infuse infuse for for H lj months, months,placing placing the white the crock either either inin the thesun sunor orininaahot hot place. crack Tlke out quarter of out aaquarter ofthe stones. Crack them themand put the Take the stones. and put the shells and and kernels kernels back back inin the the crock. crock. Leave Le,ave to to infuse infusefor sheJls for another 1515days. days. Draw Draw off off the the liqueur. liqueur. Add Add an another an equal equal quantity of of water water with (12 oz., with 350 350 g.g. (I2 ll cups) sugar per oz., lt per (scant quart, litre (seant quart, generous quart) quart) dissolved dissolved in it. Afteil0 10 days, filter filter and and bottle. days, (old recipe). Peppermint liqueur liquern (old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE MENTHE MENTHE -Peppermint 2* ke.(s+ lb., III I cups) cups) white white sugar on the stove in Dissolve (5t lb., ?issolve 2t lf litres litres (3(3 pints, 44 pints) water. water. Add Add 22 litres (3* pints, 4| pints) alcohol, 58° 58' (US 66°) proof, and 66) proof, and 1I g.g. (t oz.) essence of mint. mint. Leave for for 30 30 days. days. Filter Filterthrough paper. filter through fil ter paper. Leave Persico or or perslcot - A1coholic Alcoholic liqueur, liqueur, made made of of eau-de-vie, eou-de-vie, Persico peach stone stone kernels, sugar sugar and and aromatic aromatic substances. substances. It It isis peach used for for flavouring flavouring pastry pastry desserts. desserts. used liquern or (quince water) 1.I. LIQUEUR, ratafia (qwnce or ratafia r,rqurun, Quince Quince liqueur RATAFTA DE DE COING corNc (nlu DE on COING) quinces into corNc) -- Cut Cut the quinces into RATAFIA quarters. Remove Remove pipo and and shred shred the the fruit fruit without without peeling. quarters. Place in in aa bowl, bowl, coyer cover and and leave leave to to stand stand in in aa cool place Place for 33 days. Squeeze Squeeze through muslin. Add Add to to the the quince juice for an equal quantity quantity of of spirits. To (scant quart, To every every litre litre (seant quart, an generous quart) quart) of of this this mixture mixture add (12 oz., g. (12 add 350 350 g. lj cups) oz., It generous cups) sugar, aa c10ve jar clove and and aa small small piece of of cinnamon. cinnamon. Infuse Infuse in sugar, in aa jar for 22 months. for Strain through through aa muslin bag. bag. Bottle. IL LIQUEUR, lrqunun, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE COINGS Quince liqueur or ratafia H. Quince corNcts -juice as P1e_pare the quince quince juice as for the previous recipe. To every Prepare (2j pints, juice add lf litres litres (2i pints, Ji 3{ pints) juice (siant pint, 2~ aAO } fitre (seant lt i! } litre (US 97°) cups) alcohol, 85° 85o (US 97") proof. Add t+ teaspoon cups) teaspoon cloves, 1 I teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, aa pinch of ground ground mace mace and and I or teaspoon or 2 teaspoons bitter è1HIIVI.tU:'. almonds. teaspoons Leave the the mixture to to infuse infuse for for 22 months. Leave months. Then Then add add a (cold) made from 225 g. (8 (8 oz., oz., 1 I cup) sugar dissolved syrup (cold) dissolved (+ pint, seant on the the stove stove in 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) water. on Filter and bottle. Filter bottle. Raspberry R~
Proceed as asindicated indicated inin the previous recipe. the previous recipe. Proceed Citron liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LIQUEUR, LreuEUR, RATAFIA RATAFTA DE oECÉDRAT cfnnAr -Citron juice of Made with the peel and and juice ofcitrons, citrons, in in the the same sameway way as as Made Orange ratafia ratafia (seebelow). below). Orange (old recipe). liqueur(old recipe). LIQUEUR LreuEr.rR DE on CAFÉ clrERoast lj-finE. kg. Coffee - Roast kg. .Coffee liqueur (3t lb., lb., 1313 cups) cups) best best mocba mocha beans grind very beans and and grind very (3t Infuse in in 55 litres litres (4| quarts, 51 (US 66°) 5j quarts) alcohol alcohol 58° 58. (US 66.) Infuse proof, and and 44 litres litres (3| quarts, quarts, 4f quarts) quarts) water. water. After After 10 l0 proof, days of of infusion, infusion, distil in aa bain-marie bain-marie to (4| to obtain obtain 55 litres litres (4t days quafts, 5t quarts). If 5| quarts). If aa stronger fiavour flavour of of coffee coffee isis desired, desired, quarts, more fresh fresh coffee coffee can can be be infused inin the the liqueur. liqueur. Next, Next, more (51lb., dissolve 21 2ike. (4| pints, cups) sugar sugar in in 2t litres (412| litres pints, dissolve kg. (51 lb., Illl cups) pints) water water and and add add this this to to the liqueur. Leave the liqueur. Leave to to stand stand 515i pints) overnight and and fil filter next day. day. overnight ter next Curagao liquern. LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE CURAÇAO cuRAgAo -- Ingredients. Ingredients. Curaçao g. (2 oz.) bitter orange peel, I teaspoon cinnamon, 30 g. 50 g. 50 (2 oz.) peel, 1 cinnamon, 30 g. (l oz.) Pern Pernambuco clove, 1I litre (l| pints, generous generous (1 oz.) am buco bark, 1I clove, qlart) pure pure wine (US 90°) wine alcohol alcohol 79° 79' (US (18 oz., 90') proof, 500 g. (18 500 g. oz., quart) (scant pint, 2f cups) cups) sugar, sugar, tI litre litre (seant ping 2* 2f,cups) water. 2* Metlnd. Infuse Infuse the the orange orange peel, peel, pernambuco bark, bark, Method. cinnamon and and c10ve clove for for 33 weeks. weeks. Make Make aa syrup syrup of of the the sugar sugar cinnamon and water water and and pour itit over over these these ing:rec!îerHs. ingredients. and Filter and and bottle. If If necessary, necessary, colour with with carmine carmine and and Filter caramel. caramel. Dantzig liqueur. liquern. LIQUEUR LreuEUR DE DE DANTZIG DANrzrc -- This This liqueur is Dantzig made from from sweetened (US 97°) sweetened 85° 85" (US 97") proof grain spirits with made water added, added, and and flavoured flavoured with with various herbs. water The characteristic characteristic feature feature of of this liqueur is this liqueur is that that itit has has tiny tiny The gold specks of of go leaf floating floating in it. in it. Id leaf Fennel liqueur. liqueur. LIQUEUR LreuErJR DE DE FENOUIL FENourL -- This This is is made made from from fennel stalks in the stalks in the sa same way as as Angelica fennel me way Angelica liqueur. Grande-Charheuse The liqueur liqueur of the the GrandeGrandeGrande-Chartreuse - The generally called Chartreuse, generally called Chartreuse, Chartreuse, is is one one of of the the most most Chartreuse, famous liqueurs liqueurs now now being being made. It isis produced the produced by the famous made. It distillation of gathered in of herbs is distillation berbs gathered in Alpine regions, and is named after the of the where named after the monastery monastery of the Grande-Chartreuse, where itit was was first first manufactured manufactured by by the the monks. monks. Juniper Juniper liqueur liqueur or or ratafia ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA pn DE csNrivRn GENIÈvRE(8i Make a syrup 4 of kg. lb., lfi cups) Make a syrup of 4 kg. (8i lb., 17t cups) sugar sugar dissolved dissolved in in aa little !ittle water. water. With With this this syrup, moisten moisten 4 4 litres litres ($ quafts, 4! 4t quarts) juniper berries berries placed in in aa stone stone crock crock with 44 litres litres (3f quarts, 4f quarts) quarts) alcohol. Seal and and leave to to infuse infuse for for 15 15 days, days, shaking shaking the the crock crock from from time time to to time time after after the the first first 3 3 or or 44 tays. "days. Strain Strain the the liqueur through aa muslin muslin bag. Bottle. Bottle. This liqueur is good good only only when itit has has been been kept kept aa very very long long time. time. Lemon Lemon liqueur liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE crrRoN CITRON -Made Made with with the the peel and and juice juice of of lemons, lemons, in in the the same same way way as as (see below). Orange liEteur Orange Orange Orange liquern or ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA D'oRANcE D'ORANGE -Ingredients. Ingredients. 6 oranges, I litre litre (If; (li pints, generous quart) brandy brandy or or pure pure white spirits spiri ts of of wine, wine, 500 g. g. (18 oz., oz., 4 cups) lump lump sugar, sugar, It teaspoon teaspoon cinnamon, cinnamon, jt teaspoon teaspoon coriander. coriander. Method. Method. Peel Peel the the oranges oranges carefully, carefully, so so that tbat none none of of the the white white pith pith isis mixed mixed with with the the outer outer rind. rind. Chop Chop the the rind rind finely. finely. Squeeze the the juice juice of of the the oranges into into aa jar. jar. Add Add the the sugar to to the juice. Add Add the the chopped chopped rind, cinnamon cinnamon and and coriander. COliallde:r. Pour Pour on on the the spirits spirits and and mix mix all ail together. together. Leave Leave to to infuse infuse for for 22 months. months. Filter Filter and and bottle. bottle. Orange Orange blossom blossom liqueur liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LrerJEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE FLEURS D'oRANGR FLEURS D'ORANGER -- Made Made from from the the petals petaIs of of orange orange blossom blossom in in the the same same way way as as Carrution Carnation liqueur. liqueur. Liquern Liqueur or or ratafia ratafia of of peach peach and and apricot apricot stones. stones. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DENoyArx NOYAUX -- Made Made from from peach peacb and and apricot apricot stones, stones, or mixture a or a mixture of ofthe the two. two. Half-fill Half-fill aa stone stone crock crock with with whole whole stones. stones. Fill Fil! up up with with

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bottle. Verbena Verbena liquern or or rateffa. ratafia. LreuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE VERvETNE VERVEINE Made Made with verbena ver:bena leaves leaves in in the the same sa me way way as as Vanilla Vanilla liqueur. liqueur. Violet Violet liquern liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. LreuErJR, LIQUEUR, RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE vToLETTE VIOLETTE -Made Made with with violets violets in in the the same same way as as Camation Carnation liqueur. liqueur. Walnut Wa)nut liquern liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (walnut water water or or cordial). LrerJErrR LIQUEUR RATAFTA RATAFIA DE DE Norx NOIX (nnou, (BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Norx) NOIX) -- Split Split in half 20 green green walnuts walnuts and and put put them them in in aa jar jar with with lf Hlitres litres half 20 (2f; (2i pints, pints, 3| pints) pints) spirits. spirits. Cork Cork tightly. tightly. Leave in aa cool cool place, place, Leave this mixture mixture to to infuse infuse for for 66 weeks weeks in shaking the the jar jar from from time time to to time. time. Strain through through aa cloth. clotho Add Add aa syrup syrup made made from from 500 500 g.g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2t cups) cups) sugar sugar and and 2j 21 dl. dl. (scint (seant j pint, pint, gene.o,is generous cup) of cup) boiled boiled water, water, also also aa little !ittle cinnamon cinna mon and and aa pinch pin ch of coriander. coriander. Leave Leave to to infuse infuse for for another another month. month. Strain Strain and and bottle. bottle.

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LOACH LOACH Walnut Walout liquern liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (walnut (walout water water or or cordial) cordial) ià la la

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carm6Hte. Icarmélite. LIeuEUR, LIQUEUR, RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE NoD( NOIX (rRou, (BROU, EAU EAU DE DE Notx NOIX AÀ rliLA clnufurs) CARMÉLITE) -- Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe, recipe,

using 100 100 green green walnuts walnuts and and I! tablespoon tablespoon cloves. cloyes. The The using walnuts Iwalnuts must must be be unripe unripe so so that that they they can can be be pierced pierced with with aa thick pin. pin. thick 1 When Wh en the the mixture mixture has has infused infused for for 22 months, months, add add 22 kg. kg. 1(4+ (4! lb., lb., 99 cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Proceed as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe. recipe. Proceed 1

ILIQUEUR or or DESSERT DESSERT WII\ES. WINES. vINs VINS DE DE LIQUEIJR

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rName given to to any any wine wine which which isis both both sweet sweet and intoxicating. intoxicating. Name given these wines, wines, which which are mainly mainly drunk drunk as as ap6ritifs apéritifs IAmong Among these land used in cooking and confectionery, confectionery, the following following are and used well known: known: Frontignac, Frontignac, Muscatel, Muscatel, Lunel, Lunel, Grenache, Grenache, well IBanyuls, Banyuls, Madeira, Madeira, Malaga, Malaga, Malmsey, Malmsey, Marsala, Marsala, Port, Lacrima-Christi. Sherry, Lacrima-Christi.

LMR. LIVER. FoIE FOIE --

The The liver liver is is the the largest largest and and most most important important of of the the glands glands attached attached to to the the digestive digestive organs. organs. game are The The livers livers of of slaughtered slaughtered animals, animais, poultry poultry and and game are such as as fish, such all in cookery, cookery, as as are are those those of of one one or or two two fish, ail used used in turbot turbot and and skate. skate. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) all the describe ail to describe LWESTOCK. LIVESTOCK. sEr,AIr BÉTAIL - This This word word is is used used to the raised on food, for intended animals particularly animals, animais, particularly animais intended for food, raised on cattle-breeding cattle-breeding farms. farms. farmyard to small small farmyard applied to is also also applied word is Erroneously Erroneously this this word rabbits. hutch rabbits. poultry and and hutch of poultry animals, animais, various various types types of heading this heading come under under this which should should come animals which The The only only animais pigs. lambs and and pigs. sheep, lambs calves, sheep, cows, calves, oxen, cows, are are bullocks, bullocks, oxen,

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ILIQUORICE. RÉGLISSE - Leguminous Leguminous plant found found mainly mainly LIQUORICE. nfcr,lsse in Spain and Sicily. Its rhizome contains a sweet substance, and when when soaked soaked or or infused infused in provides aa sweet in water, water, provides and drink. Solidified liquorice comes cornes from a watery extract obtained Solidified to aa solid by strong strong pressure, pressure, which which is is then then evaporated to by black in colour, consistency. It is and is generally moulded colour, and is black consistency. sweet tasting, aa when broken, sweet sticks, glossy when into cylindrical sticks, extent when to sorne some extent little bitter and in water to and sharp, sharp, soluble in little pure.

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especially book' especially visitors' book, for the thevisitors' term for French term D'ORLME D'OR LIVRE - French restaurateur toto by the the restaurateur offered by (in this oneoffered the one context) the this context) (in repository therepository becomes the often itit becomes All too too often clients. Ail enthusiastic clients. enthusiastic jokes; sometimes, sometimes, and tasteless tasteless jokes; compliments and of banal banal compliments of drawhumorous drawandhumorous witticisms and cleverwitticisms contains however, tains clever however, itit con establishment. logbook of ofthe theestablishment. worthy logbook and becomes becomes aaworthy ings ingsand -Cun ofthe the livred'or d'orof thelivre whatthe forexample, example,what yo.,imagine, imagine, for Can you with the the todaywith could bebetoday Cancale could of Cancale restaurant of Rocher Rocher restaurant Eugdne Baudelaire,Eugène Hugo, Baudelaire, Victor Hugo, Balzac,Victor of Balzac, signatures signatures of Flaubert? andFlaubert? Sue, Goncourts and theGoncourts Sue,the forexexThat,for treasures.That, veritabletreasures. areveritable d'orare Sorne /ivresd'or Some livres restaurateur-cumPuteaux, restaurateur-cumRenaultofofPuteaux, ample, Camille Renault ample,ofofCamille contains andcon volumesand sevenvolumes runstotoseven whichruns arts,wbich patron tains patron of ofthe thearts, Villon, signedbybyVillon, drawingssigned anddrawings paintings, paintings, watercolours watercolours and etc. L6ger,etc. FernandLéger, Braque,Fernand Picasso,Braque, Reynold Arnould, Picasso, iteynold Arnould, restaurantofof Saint-Antoine restaurant GrandSaint-Antoine theGrand d'orofofthe Ininthe livred'or thelivre first thefirst fromthe lineagefrom traceitsitslineage cantrace familycan Albi, Rieuxfamily Albi,tbe theRieux tlte Sam,the d'orofofSam, livred'or the/ivre Thenthere thereisisthe entry Jaurds.Then byJaurès. entry by boastsailall whichboasts Pontchartrain, which troubadour-restaurateur trou-badour-restaurateur ofofPontchartrain, more' manymore. andmany time- -and famousofofitsitstime the thefamous signatures ofofthe thesignatures passedthe thetime time friendspassed hisfriends andhis During Picassoand war,Picasso thewar, During the restaurant' Catalanrestaurant. theCatalan drawing papertableclotbs tableclothsofofthe onthe thepaper drawing on drawcollecteddrawpublishedthese thesecollected The Hugnetpublished poetGeorges GeorgesHugnet Thepoet wine)inina a redwine) andred (somecoloured coffeeand mustard,coffee ings withmustard, colouredwith ings(sorne onlyailall Catalan.If NappeduduCala/an. theNappe luxury If only knownasasthe luiuryedition editionknown livres calibre ! thiscalibre! wereofofthis d'orwere livresd'or

Litchis branch Litchis on onaabranch

LITCHI probably of of fruit, probably This fnùt, LETcHI -- This LICHEE. LETCHI LITCHI or or LICHEE. Chinese Philippine India, the the Philippine in India, cultivated in also cultivated Chinese origin, origin, isis also Islands hasthe the Far East. East' ItIt has of the the Far countries of Islands and and other other countries appearance andhas hasaa ofaacherry, cherry, and about the thesize sizeof berryabout appearance of of aa berry large flavour' musky ininflavour. andmusky pulp isis white, white,sweet sweetand The pulp large stone. stone. The ItIt has easily awayeasily comes away which cornes shell which and scaly hard and scaly shell has aa thin, thin, hard from greenish atatfi.rst, turns first, then thenitit turns The shell fruit. The shell isis greenish from the the fruit. pink, ripe, red. red. fully ripe, pink, and andwhen whenfully For shell' ItIt dryininits itsshell. lefttotodry fruit isisusually usually left For export, export, the the fruit then withaaslightly prune, isisvery verysweet slightly sweetwith likeaaprune, black like thenturns turns black acid nuts. litchi nuts. lichee or orlitchi calledlichee andisiscalled acid flavour, flavour,and Fresh andthose those storesand delicatessenstores licheesare aresold soldininsorne somedelicatessen Fresh lichees specialising fruits. exoticfruits. specialisingininexotic LITRON bushel Anold oldbushel measure.An liquid measure. French liquid Old French LITRON - - Old measured gallons)and (2f;gallons, gallons,3!3|gallons) anda a litres(2i about 1313litres measured about litron ofaabushel. bushel. litron was wasaasixteenth sixteenthof LITTLE (Fieldduck). Migratory ceNspEr$nr - -Migratory duck).CANEPETIÈRE BUSTARD(Field LITTLE BUSTARD European family. waderfamily. thewader wild bird birdofofthe Europeanwild UV AROT - See CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. LMROT

Peru.ItItisis foundininPeru. LLAMA. mammalfound Ruminantmammal LAMA- -Ruminant LLAMA.LAMA beef (q.v.). wayasasbeef(q.v.). edible sameway thesame cookedininthe andisiscooked edibleand freshEuropeanfreshgiventotoseveral LOACH. severalEuropean Namegiven Locnn- -Name LOACH.LOCHE andbarbed. barbed. water longininshape shapeand waterfish, fish,ailalllong

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There There are are three types: types: the common loach, loach, a delicate fish found mountain streams; the sptned spined loach or groundling, groundling, found in in mountain aa small small fish fish found found in in rivers and streams, stream s, about about the size of a gudgeon, and rather rather leathery; leathery; the rockling, rockling, about about the same same gudgeon, and size size as as the the other other two, two, but but less less delicate in flavour. The loach is is eaten eaten fried, fried, en en matelote or or dà la meuniire. meunière. pArNs LOAVES. LOA YES. PAINS -- Culinary CuIinary term tenu applied applied to dishes, served cold or hot, hot, made made of of aa forcemeat forcemeat placed placed in a special special mould mould cold or and and poached poached in in aa bain-marie bain-marie (q.v.) (g.v.) ifif served served hot, hot, and and set in aa mould if served cold. cold. mould lined lined with with aspic aspic jelly jelly and and chilled chilled if This This type type of of entrte entrée was was once once very popular. popular. It It has has been been replaced replaced by by mousses mousses (q.v.), (g.v.), which which are also also prepared prepared hot or cold. cold. The The various various ingredients ingredients used used for for the the forcemeats forcemeats are, are, as as indicated gras), game meat in individual individual recipes, recipes, Iiver liver (foie (foie gras), indicated in (winged (winged and and ground ground game), game), poultry pouItry and and vegetables, vegetables, fish fish and and shellfish. shellfish.

FISH FISH AND AND SHELLFISH SHELLFISH LOAVES. LOA YESo pnns PAINS

pike flesh (net weight, after c1eaning cleaning the fish). fish). Season Season with with 1I teaspoon pinch of white white pepper and teaspoon saIt, salt, aa pinch and aa little grated nutmeg. Pound in a mortar into a fine paste. mortar and in its place put 250 Remove the fish from the mortar Remove g. 250 g. (9 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) Flour Flour panada panada (see PANADA). After pounding pounding the panada panada thoroughly, add to it 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter. Blend by pounding pounding together. together. Put the pike back in the mortar and pound vigorously vigorously to perfectly smooth mixture. Add, Add, still pounding, pounding, 1I obtain a perfectly smooth mixture. whole egg and, one by one,4 one, 4 egg egg yolks. whole mortar, rub through aa Remove the forcemeat from the mortar, transfer to a bowl and stir stir with a wooden spoon spoon fine sieve, transfer until very smooth. until Butter a mould and fill with with the the mixture. Cook Cook in a bainbainButter in the the oven oyen from from 45 45 to to 50 50 minutes, depending depending on on marie (q.v.) (g.v.) in marie the size size of the the mould. Turn out onto a serving servir1g dish, either either the the dish or on aa fried cro0ton croûton of of bread. Serve Serve straight onto the straight with the the garnish garnish and sauce sauce as as indicated indicated in the the recipe. recipe. with Various fish fish loaves ]oaves (hot). (hot). enrNs PAINS DE DE porssoN POISSON -- Using Using carp, carp, Various salmon or or turbot turbot flesh, flesh, prepare prepare as as described described in the the recipe recipe salmon for Pike Pike loaf. loa! for

DE DE porssoNs, POISSONS,

CRUSTACfS. CRUSTACÉS.

Pike Pike loaf loaf (hot). (hot). rlrN PAIN DE DE BRocHEr BROCHET -- Dice Dice 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) 558 558

LOAVES LOAVES sieve sieve and and put put this this forcemeat forcerneat into into aa bowl. bowl. Add Add 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) blanched, blanched, diced diced udder, udder, 50 50 g. g. Q (2 oz.) oz.) pickled pickled tongue tongue and and 50 50 g. g. added). (2 (2 (2 oz) oz.) truffies trufHes (50 (50 g. g. (2 oz.) oz.) pistachio pistachio nuts nuts can can also also be he added). 'Transfer 'Transfer the the mixture mixture into into a a cylindrical-shaped cylindrical-shaped mould, rnould, lined lined with with thin tbin rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, in in such such aa way way as as to to have have the tbe whole whole inside inside surface surface covered covered completely. completely. Press Press down down the the mould mould with with aa napkin napkin to to make make the the forcemeat forcerneat take take shape. shape. Cover Coyer with with more more bacon rashers rashers and and stand stand the the mould rnould in in aa casserole casserole l0 10 cm. cm. (4 (4 inches) inches) larger larger than than the the mould. mould. Pour Pour enough boiling boiling water water into into the the casserole casserole to to reach reach to to within witrun some I1 cm. (| (t inch) incb) of the rim. rim. Place Place on on red red coals coals and and put put sorne the water glowing coals on the lid !id as as well, weil, to to ensure ensure that tbat the water all the maintains maintains the same temperature -- almost alrnost boiling boiling -- all the slow time. time. (Or (Or you you can cook the loaf loaf in in aa bain'marie bain-marie in in aa slow oven.) later if 'A later take 'A good good 2 hours later take out out the the mould mou Id (l (1 hour bour later if put it cold on ice ice or or in and put the cooking cooking is done done in the tbe oven) oyen) and it on in aa cold on the cold, heat place. place. When When the the loaf is is quite guite cold, heat the the mould mou Id on the lid. Remove casserole lido stove to loosen loosen it it and turn tum out onto aa casserole Rernove some loaf, and and spoon spoon over over sorne the bacon rashers rasbers covering the loaf, round. and ail all round. warrn, clear jelly jelly on top and which of which bottom of 'Put the dish, the the bottorn entrie dish, loaf on on an an entrée the loaf 'Put jelly, and the Garnish the and set. set. Gamisb liquid jelly, some liquid be lined should he shouJd tined with with sorne jelly jelly, then with jelly then with with chopped jelly, dish first first with edges of of the edges the dish jelly.' decorate the the top with jelly.' and decorate cro0tons, and croûtons,

The Tbe forcemeat forcemeat can can also also be be prepared prepared as as described described in in the the Mousselineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). recipe for for Mousseline recipe forcemeat (see Garnishes and and sauces. sauces. Cancalaise Cancalaise (poached (poached oysters) oysters) and and Garnishes Normande Normande sauce; sauce; Amiricaine Américaine (slices (slices of of spiny spiny lobster) lobster) and and American American sauce; sauce; Cardinal Cardinal (slices (slices of of spiny spiny lobster lobster or or lobster, lobster, truffies and and mushrooms) mushrooms) and and Cardinal Cardinal sauce; sauce; Normande Normande truffes (mussels, (mussels, oysters, oysters, crayfish, crayfish, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffes) truffles) and and Normande surce; sauce; Trouvillaise Trouvi//aise (shrimps' tails, tails, mussels mussels and and Normande mushrooms) and and Shrimp Shrimp sauce. sauce. (See (See GARNISHES, GARNISHES, mushrooms) SAUCES.) SAUCES.) loaves (hot). rews PAINS DE DE cRusrAcns CRUSTACÉS - Prepare Prepare a Shellfish loaves lobster, spiny lobster, lobster, crab crab or or any other other shellfish shellfish forcemeato forcemeat, lobster, as described in in the the recipe recipe for Panada Panada forcemeat forcemeat with butter butter (see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), pour into a a well-buttered mould mould with a hole hole in the middle and poach in the the oven oyen in a bainbainmarie. marie. Turn Tum out out onto onto a dish dish and serve serve with the garnish gamish indicated. indicated. Pour over over a sauce sauce appropriate appropriate to the the garnish. garnish. Pour Garnishes and and sauces. sauces. All Ali the the garnishes gamishes and and sauces Garnishes for fish fish loaves loaves are are applicable applicable to to shellfish recommended for loaves. loaves.

-

PAINS DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS -- In the old days FOIE GRAS LOAVES. pAINs mousses and thefoie grcs gras loaves loaves (today (today replaced by by foie foie gras mousses thefoie (q.v.) to bind them. mousselines) were prepared prepared using using panada panada (g.v.) them . mousselines) This is no no longer longer used used nowadays; nowadays; aa more more delicate comThis is position is is obtained and the the binding binding of position mixture is of the the mixture obtained and old recipe recipe for tbis assured by using meat jelly. jelly. Here is is an an old this entrée: type of entrie:

DE GIBIERS GIBIERS -PAINs DE LOAVES. GAME GA ME LOA YESo PAINS This is is PoIL -- This DE GIBJE~DE r.lrN DE GIBIER DE POIL game lod loaf (hot). PAIN Ground game Ground like or deer, hare or deer, like leveret, hare flesh of of leveret, prepared, using using the the ftesh prepared, (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). loaf (hot) (see Chicken loaf(hot) Chicken pon ÀA LA jelly. PAIN u oe POIL cIBIER DE PAIN DE DE GIBIER game loar loaf in in jelly. Ground game Grouod (see helow) game loaf below).. . in jel/y loaf in Winged game Like Winged cslfE -- Like GELÉE ielly (see Use PLUME -- Use DE PLUME (hot). PAIN DE GIBIER GIBIER DE game lod rerN DE loaf (hot). Winged game Winged like Chicken Chicken partridge, like pheasant, partridge, of woodcock, woodcock, pheasant, the meat meat of the garnish and sauces suitable suitable and sauces (see CHICKEN). The garnish CHICKEN). The toaf (hot) (see loaf(hot) sauce Demi-glace sauce and Demi-glace game loaf loaf are: are: mushrooms and for hot hot garne for game stock stock concentrated garne (see SAUCE) on buttered, buttered, concentrated based on SAUCE) based (see (q.v.); chipolata chipolata of aafumet consistency of to the the consistency down to boiled down boiled fumet (q.v.); (escalopes of of Rossini (escalopes Demi'glace; Rossini butterd Demi-glace; with buttered sausages sausages with on aa truffie truffie sauce based based on and Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce liver and and trufHes) truffies) and liver on trume truffie fumet. based on D emi- g lace based and Demi-glace trufles and fumet; fumet fume t ; truffles LA PLITME À A LA DE PLUME DE GIBIER GIBIER DE PAIN DE game lod loaf in in jelly. Winged game Winged ielly. PAlN (see FOIE FOIE GRAS) GRAS) gras loaf inielly (see loaf injel/y Foie gras hke Foie cELfE -- Prepare Prepare like GELÉE game (net weight) (18 oz.) of game g. (18 weight) of oz.) (net liver by by 500 500 g. replacing the the liver replacing indicated. meat. as as indicated. meat, eggs with eggs vegetables mixed mixed with braised vegetables made of of braised loaves are are made loaves plain poured into buttered plain into aa buttered an omelette, omelette, poured as for for an beaten beaten as poached in in aa bain-marie. bain'marie. and poacbed mould and mould (see Endive loaf loaf (see given for fot Endive recipe given following the the recipe By following By made: loaves can can he be made: vegetable loaves other vegetable various other ENDIVE) ENDIVE) various etc. turnip, etc. cauliflower, turnip, carrot, cauliftower, aubergine, carrot, artichoke, aubergine, artichoke, asaa moulds,isis served servedas large moulds, made in in large loaf, made of loaf, This type type of This poured over it. over it. sauce poured with aacream cream sauce small entrée, entrie, with small gamish for for meat and meatand asaagamish are used usedas loaves are vegetable loaves Small vegetable Small garnishing fish or dishes, or for garnishing fish dishes, also be be used usedfor poultry. They They can can also poultry. given helow. below' recipes are are given eggs.Sorne Some recipes poachedor or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs. poached DECHOU-FLEUR cHou-FLEUR - PAINSDE PETITS PAINS loaves. PETITS Small cauliOower cauliflower loaves. Small yolks, pour pour itit with egg egg yolks, pur6e bound boundwith cauliflower purée Prepare aa cauliflower Prepare inaa oven in cook inin the and cook the oyen dariole moulds moulds and into small buttered dariole small buttered into bain-marie. bain-marie. Using DE LAITUES PAINS DE LAITUES- - Using loaves. PETITS PETITs PAINS lettuce loaves. SmaII Small lettuœ prepare as as egg, prepare with egg, boundwith and bound chopped and lettuces, braised, braised, chopped lettuces, (seebelow). loaves(see below). spinach loaves for for Sma// Smallspinach pur6es such vegetable purées such orvegetable vegetable loaves loavesor Various other othef vegetable Various chicory, Brusselssprouts, endive,Brussels sprouts,chicory, mushrooms,endive, asas carro t, mushrooms, carrot, preparedinintbe manner. samemanner. thesame canhe beprepared etc. can tomato, tomato,etc. D'fpnlnos PETITS PAINS P.ltNsD'ÉPINARDS romaine. PETITS loaves ài lalaromaine. spinachloaves SmaJJ Smallspinach pur6e,tossed tossedinin leafspinach spinach purée, Prepare aaleaf r.l ROMAINE nouewn- - Prepare ÀA LA

Jellied gras loaf(Carême) Jellied foie foie gras loaf (Carime)

(CarGme's recipe). DE FOTE FoIE JelUed PAIN DE recipe). PAIN grs Joar loaf (Carême's foie gras Jellied foie fattened made from from fattened This entrée ent6e can can be be made rl - This goose liver. capon liver. goose liver uses capon liver although Car€me uses although Carême you have 'Trim have liver, which which you fat capon 'Trim 450 lb.) fat capon liver, 450 g.g. (1(l lb.) previously ter. previously soaked in wa water. soaked in 'Weigh t cup) panada (6 oz., panada and and the the same same 'Weigh out 175 g.g. (6 o2.,3 out 175 "up) amount fat. grated bacon fat. or grated bacon of butter butter or amount of 'Begin it. Take Take to it. panada, then add butter butter to pound the then add 'Begin to the panada, to pound tbis proceed to pound the the to pound and proceed mortar and out of of the the mortar mixture out this mixture liver panada and and paste. Add perfectly smooth Add the the panada liver into smooth paste. into aa perfectly yolks, pound good 15 egg yolks, 15 minutes, minutes, adding adding 55egg pound together for aa good together for 44 teaspoons tablespoons) tablespoons(3(3 tablespoons) salt, 22 tablespoons teaspoons spiced spiced salt, fines (by fines meant Car0me meant herbes,Carême in butter butter(by herbes tossed tossed in fines herbes, fines herbes aa mixture and shallots and mushrooms, truffies, truffies, shallots of chopped chopped musbrooms, mixture of (see aromatic Veloutd sauce sauce(see and 1I tablespoon tablespoon Velouté aromatic herbs) herbs) and SAUCE). SAUCE). 'When rubitit through through aa blended, rub 'When the has been been weil wellblended, whole has thewhole GRAS cRAs ÀA LA GELÉE cnrfs -

s59 559

LOBSTER LOBSTER

il,

i::

';

:

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':

Lobster ((Robert Carrier) Lobster Ro be r t C at ie r\

Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), butters), mixed mixed with with diced diced anchovy anchovy fillets, fillets, and and bound bound with with eggs eggs beaten beaten as as for Pour the the mixture mixture into into buitered buttered dariole dariole for an an omelette. omelette. Pour moulds moulds and and cook cook in in aa bain bain marie. marie.

of the the lobster is is smooth. smooth. Its Its claws The shell of claws are are armed armed of unequal size; size; one one is is large large and with pincers pincers of with and oval, oval, the the other other more slender slender and and elongated. elongated. more of aa rich, lobs ter found in in European European waters waters is is of The lobster rich, dark dark blue colour tinged tinged with with purple. purple. Its Its joints are are orange blue orange and and its feelers, which are as long as its body, red. its feelers, which are as long as its body, red. The lobster lobster reaches reaches full full size size very very slowly. slowly. At At 55 years years old, old, it it The is about about 12 cm. inches) long, long, having having shed shed its its tail tail some sorne is cm. (5 inches)

LOBSTER. LOBSTER. HoMARD HOMARD -- Large Large seawater seawater crustacean crustacean similar similar

in in shape shape to to the the crayfish. crayfish. There There are are two two main main types; types; one one isis found found in in European European waters, waters, the the other other in in American American waters. waters.

560 560

LOBSTER LOBSTER although although the the most most important important sources sources are are off off the tbe coast coast of of Nova Nova Scotia Scotia and and the the state state of of Maine. Maine. According According to to United United States States fisheries fisheries authorities, authorities, the the S-year-old 5-year-old lobster lobster measures measures about about 27 27 cm. cm. (10| (1 ~ inches) inches) and and has has moulted moulted 25 25 times. times. ItIt is is aa lobster of the dark dark mottled mottled green green when when caught. ca ught. The The flesh fiesh of the lobs ter isis more more highly highly flavoured flavoured than than that that of of the the spiny spiny lobster lobster or or

20 times times in in the the course course of of this this period. period. Later Later itit grows grows very very 20 attaining 30 30 to to 50 50 cm. cm. (12 (12 to to 20 20 inches) inches) in in much larger, larger, attaining much and weighing weighing up up to to 55 kg. kg. (l(III lb.). lb.). length and length The female female lobster lobster carries carries its its eggs eggs in in the the tail. tai!. The The French French The have aa special special name, name, paquette, paquette, for for the the female female lobster lobster with with have and connoisseurs connoisseurs assert assert that that itit isis when when the the fully formed formed eggs, eggs, and fully eggs are are formed formed and and not not laid laid that that the the flesh flesh of of the the female female eggs at its its most most delicate delicate and and savoury. savoury. lobster isis at lobster The American American lobster lobster lives lives only only on on the the Eastern Eastern coast coast of of The North America, America, running running from from Labrador Labrador to to North North Carolina, Carolina, North

crayfish. crayfish. There There are are many many ways ways of of preparing preparing lobsterlobster. ItIt can can be be eaten eaten hot hot or or cold cold like like the the spiny spiny lobster lobster (q.v.)' (g.v.). This Lobster Lobster ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. uotrllno HOMARD A À r'lrvrfntcltt{s L'AMÉRICAINE -- This

lobsteràil'américaine I'am€ri,caine(Larousse) How totoeut cutup upaalobster How (Larousse) headinintwo twolengthwise; lengthwise; Cut thehead two;5.5.Cutthe tail14. Cut thecarcase carcaseinintwo; tiporthe ofthetail; Cutoff offthe offthe leftc1aws; claws;3.3.CUl rightclaws; claws;2. Cutoff Cutoff offthe 1.l.Cut the right 2. Cut the left the tip 4. Cutthe cutup uP Lobstercompletely comPletelY eut 6.6.Lobster

561 561

LOBSTER dish isis of of Provençal Provengal origin. origin. Raw Raw lobster lobster sautéed saut6ed inin oil oiland and dish the use use of of tomatoes are characteristic tomatoes are characteristic features featuresof ofMediterMediterthe ranean cookery. cookery. ranean Towards the middle of the middle of the nineteenth century, the nineteenth century, this dish thisdish Towards provenCale (Gouffé). (Gotff€).The was called called lobs lobster The name name was ter àd lala provençale lobster àd l'américaine l'amiricaine was was applied applied atat that that time time to to aa dish dish lobster poached lobster. made from from poached lobster. made A certain certain confusion confusion had had arisen arisen over over these names. these two two names. A provengale, simpler Lobster àd la prepare and la provençale, simpler to and less to prepare lesssubtle in subtle in Lobster flavour, usurped usurped both name and position of both the the name and the the position oflobster lobster àd flavour, I'amiricaine. There There isis still doubt as still sorne some doubt as to to who who invented invented l'américaine. name lobster lobster àd l'américaine, I'amiricaine, the the name dish itself itself having the dish having been been the known for for aa very very long long time. time. known anonymous cook, master chef cook, as some anonymous as the the master chef Escoffier Escoffier Was itit sorne would have have us who, having known us believe, who, known the dish in in Nice, Nice, the dish would exported itit to to America, whence whence it was was subsequently· subsequently rereexported irnported into into France? France? Was Was itit sorne perhaps restaurateur, perhaps some restaurateur, imported Fraisse of of Noel Noel and and Peter's Restaurant, who gave this Peter's Restaurant, name who gave this name Fraisse to the dish in in honour honour of patron? of sorne the dish some transatlantic transatlantic patron? to Curnonsky settled settled this this controversy controversy once once and and for for all all by Curnonsky investigating the matter. He the matter. He discovered discovered that that aa certain Pierre Fraisse, born born in in Sète, years in Site, chef chef for for aa number number of of years in Pierre (mainly in the United United States States (mainly in Chicago), Chicago), set up aa restaurant restaurant set up the called Peter's Peter's in in the the boulevard boulevard des des Italiens. Italiens. ItIt was was the the called of the the Second Second Empire. Empire. One One evening in in an an attempt attempt to to period of serve a party of of tourists tourists who who had had little little time to to spare, he he followed the Provençal Provengal recipe, recipe, starting starting with with the living living The delighted lobster. The delighted clients clients asked for the asked for name of the name of the lobster. the wonderful dish. dish. Still Still under under the influence of the influence of his his American American wonderful 'Homard ài l'américaine'. sojourn, Fraisse replied:: 'Homard I' am6ricaine'. This lobster lobster would be more American, perhaps, if American, perhaps, be even even more if whisky were used instead of of Cognac. used instead to the the dissection of live lobster lobster we of aa live To those who object to we dedicate the following lines: lines: dedicate An American American was uncertain An the best way to cook cook lobster Of the Why not just leave it for now homard àd l'Américaine I'Amiricaine .... Said the homard .. Provengal cooks cooks prepare lobsters lobsters and and spiny lobsters in Provençal spiny lobsters in the Provengal inaa coulis coulis(q.v.) (q.v.) oftomatoes Provençal fashion, in of tomatoes flavoured with onion, onion, garlic and and parsley. parsley. Take aa hen hen lobster weighing weighing 1I kg. Take kg. (generous 22 lb.). lb.). Cut Cut joints. Split the tail into slices, following the marks of the joints. the marks Split the carcase in two, lengthwise. Crack the the shel! shell of the the c1aws. claws. Remove all al! the the gritty substance substance near near the the head. head. Keep Keep the the coral and the liver, which will be be used used to to thicken the the sauce. Season the portions of the lobster with salt and and pepper. Heat 4 to 6 tablespoons tablespoons olive oil in a pan. Put in the pieces of lobster, lobster, brown quickly on both sides and ove from and rem remove (3 tablespoons) finely chopped the pan. pan. Put 2 tablespoons (3 in the pan. Cook Cook slowly until until very very tender, stirring onion in frequently frequently with a a wooden wooden spoon. When almost spoon. When almost cooked, add 2 chopped add chopped shallots. shallots. Stir, Stir, mixing rnixing thoroughly. thoroughly. Put Put 22 coarsely chopped chopped tomatoes tomatoes (peeled, (peeled, squeezed coarsely squeezed and and with seeds removed) removed) into the pan. Add a touch touch of garlic, garlic, and and 1I tablespoon chopped parsley and tarragon. tarragon. tablespoon of of herbs and Lay the the pieces pieces oflobster Lay on this foundation ofherbs vegetables. It dl. dl. $ pint, 3 ~ cup) cup) dry white vegetables. Moisten Moisten with with l| tablespoons, scant + cup) fish/unel fishfomet (q.v.) and wine, I1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, wine, (1 cup) cup) brandy. brandy. Season Season with cayenne pepper. pepper. tablespoons ($ 44 tablespoons the boil, cover coyer the the pan, and and cook on on Bring the the mixture mixture to the Bring the stove s!ove or or in in the the oven oyen for 20 minutes. the Drain the the lobster lobster pieces pieces and pick out the flesh flesh from from the the Drain and the the tail. tai!. claws and claws the shells. shells. Keep warm wann while the the Serve in in the the halves halves of the Serve made. sauce isis being made. sauce The sauce. sauce. Boil down down the the pan pan juices by half. half. Add the the coral coral The and liver liver of of the the lobster lobster pounded and mixed mixed with with butter. butter. and

Whiskover overaahigh panfrom highflame. flame.Remove Removethe fromthe thepan Whisk thefire fireand, and, still whisking whisking totoensure ensureaasmooth smoothand andcreamy creamysauce, still sauce,add add 100g.g.(4(4oz., cup)butter oz.,tIcup) buttercut cutinto intofragments. fragments. 100 Seasonwith withaalittle littlecayenne cayenne pepperand anda a squeezeofof Season lemon juice. Pour Pourthis thissasauce, over the lobster, uce, piping hot,over and sprinkle with withchopped chopped parsley. Lobsteraspic. aspic.ASPIC esrrcDE DEHOMARD rnoMARD - - Line Lineaamould mouldwith with jelly and lay lay ininitit thick thick slices slicesof oflobster lobster interlaced interlaced with and withstrips strips of jelly.Fill truffie, decorated decoratedwith with jelly. Fillthe truffie, themould mouldtotothe thetop with topwith jelly.Leave clearwhite white fish fishjelly. Leave on onice icetotoset. clear set. caneither either be beturned turned out outstraight ItItcan straight onto dishor ontothe thedish orserved served jelly. onaaslice ofbuttered buttered bread. slice of bread.Decorate Decoratewith on with jelly. Boited Iobster. lobster.HOMARD HoMARDBOUILLI BourLLr - -proceed Boiled Proceedasasfor forLobster Inbsteràd (see below). below). lala nage(see This dish dish isisserved hotwith withaasauce served hot sauce usuallyserved served with with boiled fish fish or or shellfish. boiled shellfish. When When itit isiseaten eaten cold,ititshould should be be served with with aasauce served for cold saucesuitable suitable for cold fish fishor orshellfish. shellfish. Lobster àil lalabordelaise. Lobster bordelaise.HOMARD HoMARD ÀALA r,lBORDELAISE nonosre$e - - Use Use lobsters called small small lobsters called demoiselles demoisellesof of Cherbourg, Cherboarg, or large orlarge lobsters split in lobsters in half half lengthwise. lengthwise. Large Large lobsterscan prepared àdlalabordelaise can be beprepared bordelaise by bysplitting splitting them into sections asfor them into for lobster sections as lobster àdl'américaine. l'amiricaine. Proceed Proceed as as (seeCRA for YFISH). for Crayfish Crayfish àdlalabordelaise bordelaise (see CRAYFISH). T-SAV ARIN - Cook Lobster Lobster Brillat-Savarin. Brillat$avarin. HOMARD HoMARDBRILLA BRTLLAT-sAvA,Rnr - Cook aa large large lobster (seeCOURTlobster inin Court-bouillon Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURTBOUILLON). BOUILLON). Drain. Drain. Cut Cut off off the andshell the tail tail and shellil.it. Simmer Simmer slices slices of of the flesh in (sen SAUCE), the flesh in aa thick thick American American sauce sauce(see SAUCE), which tel y, adding prepared separa which has has been been prepared separately, adding toto itit sorne some of of the court-bouillon in the court-bouillon n which which the the lobster lobster was was cooked, cooked, boiled boiled jelly. down down almost almost to to aa jelly. Shell Shell the claws and the claws and the the carcase. carcase. Chop the flesh into a coarse (q.v.). Add coarse salpicon salpicon (g.v.). Add equal equal quantitiesof of salpicon salpicon of of cooked cooked truffies trufres and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Simmer all these Simmer ail these ingredients ingredients in (see SAUCE) rn aa Curry Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made with with the rest of the rest of the the lobster lobster court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Cook - the Cook courgettes, cut into thick cut into thick slices slicesthe same same number number as as there are lobster slices there are slices -- slowly slowly in in oil. oil. Place Place the the slices slices of lobster and of lobster and courgette courgette altemately alternately in in aa ring inside inside aa baked baked flan flan crust. crust. Put Put the salpicon in in the the salpicon the middle middle and coyer cover with with American American sauce. sauce. On On top top of of each each slice slice of of lobster lobster place place aa thick thick strip strip of of truffie. trufle. Lobster Lobcter cardinal. cardinal. HOMARD HoMARD CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in Court-bouillon (see COURT-BOUILLON) Court-bouillon XII XII (see COURT-BOUILLON) untiJ until itit isis cooked. cooked. Drain, Drain, cool cool aa little, little, and and split split itit lengthwise. Remove Remove the from the the flesh flesh from the taU tail and and cut cut itit into into slices slices of equal thickness. thickness. Cut Cut off off the the c1aws, claws, take out the take out the flesh, flesh, and and dice dice itit to make aa to make salpicon (g.v.). Add an (q.v.).Add quantity of an egual equal quantity of diced diced truffles. trufles. Bind Bind the the salpicon with (see SAUCE). with aa Lobster sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Fill the place halves of the halves of the lobster shell the lobster shell with with the salpicon Place the salpicon. on on top top the the slices slices of of lobster lobster interspersed with with strips strips of of truffles. Pour on on sorne truffies. Pour some lobster lobster sauce. grated sauc€. Sprinkle with with grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter. butter. Place Place the the halves halves on on aa baking baking sheet and brown brown them sheet and them quickly in the oven. Garnish the oyen. Garnish with parsley. with curly curly parsley. en chemise. HOMARD EN CHEMISE Plunge Lobster en chenise. HoMARD EN cHEMrsE - Plunge aa lobster lobster into into boiling boiling water water to to kill kill il. it. Season Season with with salt and salt and pepper. pepper. Baste Baste with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Wrap Wrap itit in in aa double double thickness thickness of of oiled greaseproof paper paper and and tie with string. tie with string. Place Place on aa baking sheet, and bake sheet, and in aa hot hot oyen bake in oven for for 40 40 to to 50 50 minutes for for aa medium-sized lobster. lobster. Untie, Untie, and and serve serve itit in the paper in in which which it it has has been been cooked. cooked. Suitable dressings dressings are are half-melted half-melted Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound (see BUTTER, Compound butters), hrtters), or or any any sauce sauce usually usually served with grilled fish: served with fish: Américaine, Amhricaine, Béarnaise, Bdarnaise, Bercy, Bercy, Bordelaise, Indienne, Ravigo Ravigote Borde laise, H ongroise, Indienne, (see SAUCE). te (see SAUCE). in cream. Lobster in Loboter cream. HOMARD HoMARD À A LA ra CRÈME cninrs -- Cut Cut up up the the Lobster à américaine. Sauté lobster as for Lobster as for d rI'amiricaine. portions in Saut6 the the portions in butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons (scant butter. Drain off the butter. Pour 3 tablespoons (scant iI 562 562

LOBSTER LOBSTER Lobster Lobster Mornay Mornay in in scallop scaIlop shells shells (hoQ. (hot). coQUILLES COQUILLES

cup) cup) brandy brandy into into the the pan pan and and mix mix with with the the pan pan juices. juices. Add Add

DE DE

HoMARD HOMARD MoRNAY MORNAY - Proceed Proceed as as for for Brill Brill in in scallop scallop sftel/s shells (see (see

-

dl. (scant (seant pint, pint, 2t 2i cups) cups) cream. cream. Season Season wittr with salt salt and and aa 55 dl.

BRILL) BRILL) or or any any other other fish fish in in scallop scallop shells, shells, using using aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) and and thick thick slices slices of of lobster lobster coated coated with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce

touch touch of of cayenne cayenne pepper. pepper. Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and simmer' simmer. Serve Serve the the lobster lobs ter in in aa pie pie dish dish (in (in or or out out of of its its shell). shell). Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking sauc€ sauce to to half half its its volume, volume, add add 50 50 gg. (2 (2 oz., oz., cup) butter butter and and aa few few drops drops of of lemon lemon juice, juice, and and strain strain * cup) through muslin. muslin. Pour Pour this this sauce sauce over over the the lobster. lobster. through Lobster croquettes. croquettes. cRoQUETTBs CROQUETTES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -- Made Made from from Lobster lobster lobster salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) in in the the same same way way as as plain plain croquettes. croquettes. IfIf desired desired a salpicon salpicon of of mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies may may be be added. added. (See (See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors'd'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, Croquettes.) quettes.) Lobster à la franco-am6ricaine. franco-américaine. HoMARD HOMARD A À Le LA rnlucoFRANCOIobster euinrcuxn AMÉRICAINE -- This This method method of of cooking cooking lobster lobs ter is is aa variant variant of of the recipe recipe for for Lobster Lobster dà I'amiricaine. l'américaine. the Plunge 22 lobsters lobsters in in boiling boiling water. water. Cut Cut off off the claws and crack crack them. them. Split the the lobsters lobsters in in half half lengthwise. Drain Drain the the and scrape them them out, keeping the the liver liver and and the the carcases and liquid. Simmer 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped onion onion and and Simmer I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped shallot in 4 tablespoons (} (t cup) oil. oil. season with salt and freshly ground ground Add the lobsters, and season pepper. pepper. Tomato sauce thtn Tomato Pour over 3 dl. (+ (t pint, l|li cups) rather thin sauce glasses of (see (see SAUCE). Boil for 5 minutes. Add 2 small glasses of 18 oven for the pan pan and and bake in in the the oyen for 16 16 to to 18 Cover the brandy. Coyer minutes. on aa serving dish and keep thero on Drain the lobsters. Put them it back in warm. in the pan. Add the warm. Strain the sauce and put it (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) meat essence, liquid and liver, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) ftaming flaming glass Madeira, Madeira, 22 tablespoons (3 t glass chopped sweet peppers. Boil down and 1I or 2 sm small brandy and ail chopped and pour Over over the lobsters. add butter, butter, and this this sauce, sauce, add Plunge aa medium-sized cnn rJ -- Plunge loboter. HOMARD HoMARD GRILLÉ Grilled Grilled lobster. split itit lobster into into boiling salt water for 3 minutes. Drain, split it. pour melted and pour melted butter over it. season, and lengthwise, season, in in two two lengthwise, Grill on aa moderate heat. Grill on removed, easily removed, flesh can be easily can be so that the the ftesh Crack claws so Crack the the claws fresh parsley. garnished with fresh and napkin garnished and serve serve on on aa napkin ot Ravigote butter or d'h6tel butter Maitre d'hôtel Serve melted butter, Maître Serve with melted (see BUTTER, butters). Compound butters). butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see DwERNoIS ITENRI DUVERNOlS HoMARD HENRI Lobster Duvermis. HOMARD Lobster Henri Henri Duvernois. joint itit as I'amdri for Lobster Lobster àd l'amérias for or joint lengthwise or Split Split aa lobster lengthwise it in paprlka. Sauté in butter. and paprika. Saut6 it caine. with salt salt and caine. Season Season with tablespoons pan. Add butter 44 tablespoons the butter Add to to the Take Take itit out out of of the the pan. cup) julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of leeks and and 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t of leeks (t(* cup) cup) julienne $ cup) in butter. butter. mushrooms mushrooms tossed tossed in (* l* dl. dl. (! pan. Moisten with It in the Moisten with the pan. lobster back back in Put Put the the lobster (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) tablespoons (3 and 22 tablespoons pint, pint, t3 cup) cup) sherry sherry and lid and and with aa lid cover with fresh cream, cream, coyer add fresh brandy. Boil down, down, add brandy. Boil simmer. simmer. pilaf of rice with aa pilaf of rice Garnish with long dish. dish. Garnish Put lobster on on aa long Put the the lobster add 22 sauce,add down the the sauce, Boil down arranged along side. Boil arranged along each each side. pour over lobster. over the the lobster. (3 tablespoons) and pour butter and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter tablespoons This dish dish HoMARD -- This DB HOMARD cRoMEsQUIs DE Lobster kromeskies. CROMESQUIS Lobster kromeskies. course. ItIt light main main course. as aa light or as isis served as aa hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or served as (q.v.) either plain or with aa or with either plain salpicon (q.v.) isis made from lobster lobster salpicon made from (see SAUCE), diced which diced SAUCE), to to which sauce (see Velouté Bdchanrel sauce Velouti or or Béchamel further For further added. For have been been added. truffles and mushrooms mushrooms have truffies and hors-d'euvre. Hot hors-d'œuvre. details HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot details see see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, AU COURT-BOUILLON HoMARD AU coLJRT-Boutrr"oN ÀA Lobster mariniCre. HOMARD Inbctcr à lala marinière. dish. for this this dish. are used usedfor lobsters are small lobsters LA Very small lr,lRrNSRE - - Very r,l MARINIÈRE (see CRA CRAYFISH). tnariniire (see Proceed YFISH). asfor for Crayfish Crayfish àdlalamarinière Proceed as Lobsters àdlala calledLobsters often called wayare are often Lobsters in this this way Lobsterscooked cooked in nage. nage. for Proceedasas for HoMARD MORNAY MoRNAY - Proceed Lobster Mornay. HOMARD LobsterMornay. (se SAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see Mornay sauce Lobster cardinal, substituting substituting Mornay Lobster cardinal, for lobster sauce. for lobster sauce.

(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Brown Brown in in aa very very hot hot oven' oyen.

As As with with all ail other other scallop seallop shells, shells, whether whether filled filled with with poultry, poultry, fish fish or or other other ingredients, ingredients, the the shells shells should should be be potato mixture decorated decorated with with a a border border of of Duchess Duchess potato mixture (see (see

±

POTATOES) POT ATOES) piped piped through through a a forcing-bag forcing-bag with with a a fluted ftuted nozzle, nozzle, before before they they are are filled. filled. Hot Hot lobster lobster scallop scallop shells shells can ean also also be be made made with with other other sauces sauces such such as as Cardinal, Cardinal, Nantua, Nantua, Normande, Normande, White White wine wine sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cold Cold lobster lobster mousse. mousse. Moussn MOUSSE DE DE HoMARD HOMARD FRoIDE FROIDE -- Add Add to to aa mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) some sorne dry dry white white wine wine and and 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons and in this (scant (seant ti cup) cup) flaming ftaming brandy. brandy. Cook Cook the the lobster lobster in this and leave leave to to cool. cool. Drain Drain the the lobster lobster and and take take itit out out of of the the shell. shell. Pound the the flesh flesh finely finely in in aa mortar, mortar, slowly slowly adding adding for for every every 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) flesh ftesh (net (net weight) weight) 22 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) cold cold Veloutd Velouté smtce sauce (sw (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock. stock. Rub Rub this this mixture mixture through through a a sieve. sieve. Put Put the the pur6e purée thus thus obtained obtained in in aa pan pan on ice. ice. Stir Stir with with a a spatula spatula for for a a few few minutes. minutes. Add Add 4 4 to to (see ASPIC) Fish aspic 5 5 tablespoons cold cold Fish aspic ielly jelly (see ASPIC) and and about about cream. whipped (5 fresh, sligbtly scant cup) 2 2 dl. dl. (t pint, pint, seant cup) fresh, slightly whipped cream. Season. Season. lobster fish jelly. Line a Line a plain plain mould mould with with fish jelly. Fill Fill with with the the lobs ter garnish. or sorne some other other garnish. and decorate mousse mousse and decorate with with truffies truffles or on ice to set. set. Put it it on ice to of dish or or on on aa slice slice of serving dish onto aa serving out onto mousse out Turn the the mousse Turn jelly and and aa chopped jelly with chopped Surround with bread. Surround thickly buttered bread. thickly cro0tons. of jelly border border of jelly croûtons. covered and covered in aa bowl bowl and be served served in also be may also mousse may The mousse The may jelly. A and truffles trufles may lobster salpicon of of lobs A salpicon fish aspic aspic jelly. with fish with ter and mixture. added to to the the mixture. be added be (mousses served in individuaI individual served in morsselines (mousses lobster mousselines Cold lobster Cold made These are are made FRoIDEs -- These DB HOMARD HoMARD FROIDES portiom). MOUSSELINES MoussELIl.IEs DE portions). either mousse. Serve Serve either lobster mousse. Cold lobster as Cold mixturc as from the the same same mixture from jelly and and decorated decorated with jelly lined with moulds lined cylindrical moulds in small small cylindrical in porcelain cups. cups. little silver or porcelain silver or or in in !ittle with truffles, trufres, or with euvle or as aa or as hors-d œuvre as hors-d' can be be served served as mousselines can Lobster mousselines Lobster garnish with large with large as aa garnish may be be used used as or may main course, course, or light main light fish. cold fish. cold

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nagc [obsteràdlalanage Lobster

as Proceed as (colQ. HOMARD rl NAGE r*lcre- - Proceed HoMARD ÀALA nage(cold). LobsteràI lalanage Lobster (seebelow). (ftal) (see to loboters to Leave the the lobsters below). Leave nage(hot) Lobsteràdlah nage for Lobster for withaa Serve with it.Serve andserve serve them thern ininit. court-bouillon and coolininthe thecourt-bouillon cool (s* SAUCE, Cold sauce (see SAUCE Cold Tartare sauce sauce or ot Tartare Mavonnaise sauce Mayonnaise

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LOBSTER sauces), or or any any other othersauce sauce usually usually served served with with cold cold fish fish 'or br sauces), shellfish. shellfish. Lobster ili lala nage (hot). HOMARD uorralno A A LA m NAGE NAGE - - Boil Boil some some Lobster small lobsters, lobsters, of the type type known as asdemoiselles demoisellesof ofCherbourg Cherbourg smaH or Dieppe, Dieppe, in in white white wine wine Court-bouillon (see COURTCourt-bouillon XII XII (sec COURTor BOUILLON). BOUILLON). Serve hot hot inin the court-bouillon, with the court-bouillon, with sauce sauce sUltable suitable for for Serve poached fish. fish. poached Lobster Newburg. Newburg. HOMARD HoMARD ÀA LA r.,c. NEWBURG Nswsuxc -- Ingredients. Ingredients. Lobs.er lobsters weighing weighing about about 400 400 to g. (l(l lb.) to 500 500 g. lb.) each, each, 175 175 g. 22 lobsters (6 oz., cup) butter, 3 dl. (} pint, l* tups) sherry, 3 dl. a+ (6 OZ., ,t àbutter, 3 dl. (t pÎnt, cups) sherry, 3 dl. pint, lf cups) concentrated (+ pint, concentrated fish fish stock, 33 dl. pint, It dl. (t lf cups) pint, I! (ser-, SAUCE), 4 dl. (i pint, scant 2 cups) Velouti sauce sauce (see Velouté SAUCE), 4 dl. pint, scant 2 cups) paprika. cream, salt, salt, paprika. cream, Method. Wash Wash the lobsters and the lobsters and joint them them as as for for Lobsler Lobster àd Me/hod. I'amdricaine. Remove Remove the liver and keep for the liver for use later. Season use later. Season l'américaine. the lobsters lobsters with with salt paprika. Brown the salt and and paprika. lobsters in the lobsters in the (3 oz., g. (3 75 g. oz., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cover pan and Cover the and cook the pan cook 75 for 12 minutes. 12 minutes. for Drain off off the the butter butter and and add add the the sherrv. Boil down over Drain high flame. flame. Add Add the fish stock the fish stock and and ihe velouté veloutd sauce. sauce. aa high Keeping the pan covered, the pan covered, simmer gently for simmer gently for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Keeping Take out out the the pieces of oflobster and arrange arrange them them in in aa deep deep Take lobster and (The tail dish. (The tail pieces may may be be shelled.) shelled.) dish. Boil down down the sauce, sauce, add add the the cream, cream, and and test test the the sauce. sauce. Boil When il it coats coats the the back back ofa of a spoon, spoon, add add the previously liver, previously the Iiver, When rubbed through through aa fine fine sieve sieve and and blended blended with with the the rest rest of of the the rubbed butter. Mil< Mix the quickly by the sauce sauce quîckly by whisk:.ing. whisking. Pour Pour over over the the butter. pieces of oflobster. pieces lobs ter. This dish is sometimes dish is sometimes called called lobs/er lobster sauté sauti aa la la crème. uime. This parisienne. HOMARD Lobster ài la la parisienne. HoMARD À A LA LA PARISIENNE rARTSTENNE -- Cut Cut Lobster into slices of of equal equal thickness the tail tail of of aa medium-sized medium-sized lOlO slices thickness the lobster, cooked cooked in court-bouillon and and cooled. cooled. Coat Coat with with lobster, in aa court-bouillon gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise and decorate strips gelallne-stlre.l1lgtlherled mayonnaise and decorate with with strips of truffie dipped dipped in mayonnaise jelly. in the the half-set half-set mayonnaise jelly. jelly, fin with Line with vegetable salad salad mixed Line a a mould mould with with jelly, fill mixed with diced truffies with the the rest rest of of the the lobster, lobster, diced, diced, and diced truffies in in mayonnaise. Turn out mayonnaise. Tum out onto onto aa dish, dish, arrange arrange the the prepared prepared lobster lobster slices slices round round it it in in a a border, border, and and garnish garnish with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. jelly may also The The slices slices coated coated with with jelly may also be he served served as as aa border border to to Parisian Parisian salad salad (see (see SALAD) SALAD) which which should should be piled pîled up up into into a a small small dome dome in in the the middle. middle. Cold Cold lobster lobster ili la la parisienne parisienne or or ià la la nrcse. russe. HoMAno HOMARD rnon FROID A À pARrsrENM, A LA RussE LA LA À LA RUSSE - Proceed Proceed according according to to the the recipes for Sptny lobster parisienne (see lobster d li la la parisÎenne or or d àh la russe russe (see

Line the thescallop scallop shells withshredded shells with shredded lettuce lettuceseasoned seasoned with with Une pepper, oil salt, pepper, oil and and vinegar. On foundation put a On this this foundation salt, lobster salpicon, salpicon, seasoned seasoned with French French dressing dressing and and sprinkled lobster with chopped chopped chervil chervil and parsley. and parsley. with Put 1I or or 22 thick thick slices lobster inin each slices of of lobster each shell. shell. Cover Cover with with Put mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with fillets fillets of anchovy, capers mayonnaise. and olives. olives. Garnish Garnish with with letluce lettuce heans hearts and and quartered hardand boiled eggs. eggs. boiled Lobster in in scallop parisienne. COQUILLES scallop shells shells i la la parisienne. coeurLlEs DE DE Lobster panlsENNE - Proceed HoMARD ÀA LA Ll PARISIENNE for lAJbsler Lobster inin scol/op scallop HOMARD - Proceed asas for (cold), using shells (co/d), using vegetable salad salad dressed dressed with with mayonnaise shells or French French dressing, dressing, instead of of lettucc. lettuce. Decorate Decorate with strips strips or of truftle, capers, lettuce trufle, capers, lettuce hearts hearts and quartered hard~boîled and quartered hard-boiled of

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eggs.

Lobster in in scallop shells shells vert-pr6. coeurI,lrs DE HoMARD pnE Line with shredded watercress shells with watercress leaves leaves - Line the shells in aa French French dressing. dressing. Place Place aa salpicon salpicon and and sliœs lobster on slices of of lobster on in green mayonnaise, top. Coat Coat with with green mayonnaise. Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of of top. gherkin and and chopped yolks of chopped yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. Surround Surround gherkin with aa border border of of French French beans beans which which have have been boiled boiled in in with salt water, water, drained, drained, diced diced and and seasoned seasoned with French French dressing. dressing. salt Iobster soufflé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrr6 DE DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar Lobster 300 g. (II oz.) (net weight). oz.) cooked lobster (net cooked lobster weight). Rub Rub Ihrough through aa 300 fine sieve. Add Add 2 dl. dl. (1 scant cup) (see cup) Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see fine $ pint, seant previously cooked with SAUCE) previously with aa liule little of the lobster stock. stock. SAUCE) Season with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. Blend Blend in in 4 Season yolks. Add egg yolks. Add 44 stiffly stiffiy heaten beaten egg whîtes. whites. egg Put the mixture in the mixture in aa buttered soufflé dish and soufr6 dish and cook cook in in aa Put slow oven for for 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Serve at once. slow Little lobster lobster soufflés soufr6s can can be served as as an an hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or Little light maÎn main course. These are made from the same mixture mixture as ligot lobster souffi6, but are cooked cooked În in small small bulteroo buttered cups cups or lobster soufflé, but arc cases. cases. Lobster BRocnE Plunge aalarge Lobster on on the spit. Horrllnn HOMARD A À re LA BROCHE - Plunge large live into boiling seconds to kill it live lobster lobster into boiling salt water for aa few few seconds kil! il instantly. Put the lobster Season with salt, pepper, thyme, lobster on a spit. Season and or oil, and powdered powdered bay bay leaf. Baste Baste with wÎth melted butter or with with a a dripping dripping pan pan or or other other suitable dish underneath. undemeath. put Put into into the the pan pan a a few few tablespoons of of dry dry white wine and and 22 tablespoons "'.UJ\."'pU'JU.> (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cook Cook in in front from of a very hot hot fire, basting frequently. A A lobster Jobster weighing 1t kg. kg. (about (about 33 lb.) lb.) needs to to be cooked for 40 to to 45 minutes. Remove Remove the the lobster lobster from from the the spit and arrange on a long dish. dish. Serve with with the the juice collected in in the the dripping pan. Lobster Lobster on on the the spit can can be he served with with spicy sauces such as as Biarnaise, Béarnaise, Curuy, Curry, Ravigote Ravigole (see (see SAUCE). ...,,,,'--"'.......... ,. Lobster Lobster thermidor. thermido:r. HoMARD HOMARD rrrERMrEoR THERMIDOR -- Split Split aa lobster lobster in in two, [WO, lengthwise. Iengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell sheH of of the the claws c1aws and and pick out the the meat. meaL Season Season both both halves halves of of the the lobster lobster with with salt. pour Pour oil oil over over them them and and roast roast in in the the oven oven for for 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes. minules. Dice white wine, Dice the the flesh. flesh. Make Make aa stock stock of ofwhite wine, frshfumet tîshfume/ and meat meat juices, juices, flavoured flavoured with wilh chervil, chervil, tarragon tarragon and and chopped chopped shallots. shallots. Boil Boil itit down down to ta a a concentrated concentrated consistency. Add Add to tO this thîs aa little liHle very very thick thick Bichamel Bechamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and some some English English mustard. mustard. Boil Boil the the sauce sauce for for a a few few seconds, seconds, then then whisk whisk in in fresh fresh butter butter (one-third (one-third of of the the volume volume of of the the sauce). sauce). Line Line the the two two halves ha Ives of ofthe the carcase carcase with with aa little little of ofthis this sauce. sauce. Fill Fil! them them with with the the flesh ftesh of ofthe the lobster, la bster, coverwith cover wi th the the remainder remainder of ofthe the sauce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with wilh grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown quickly quickly in in the the oven. oven. (This (This is is the the recipe recipe for for lobster lobster thermidor thermidor given to us by M. M. Tony Tony Girod, Girod, for for many years master master chef of the famous Parisian Parisian restaurant, restaurant, the the Cafi de de Paris.) Paris.) This prepared in aa different This dish dish isis often oft enin different way. way. The The tail tail of of the the lobster lobsterisis split splitinin half and grilled, grilled, then then the the flesh flesh isis cut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and put put back back in in the the shells, sheHs, which which have have been been

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SPINY LOBSTER). Lobster Lobster pilaf. pilaf. rn.,u PILAF DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -- Coarsely Coarsely dice dice the the flesh ftesh of of boiled boiled lobsters lobsters or or cut cut it it into into pieces. pieces. Brown Brown lightly lightly in in

butter. butter. Line Line aa domed domed mould mould with with Rrce Rice pilaf pilaf (sw (see PILAF), PILAF), and and fill fiJi with with the the lobster. lobster. Tum Turn out out the the mould mould on on aa serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with Lobster Lobs/eT sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or any any other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for for shellfish. shellfish. Lobster Lobster risotto. risotto. Rrsorro RISOTTO DE DE HoMARD HOMARD - Proceed Proceed as as for for Inbster Lobs/erpilaf. pilaf Fill FiH aa ring ring mould mou Id with with risotto. risotto. Turn Turn itit out, out, and and heap heap pieces pieces of of lobster lobster in in the the middle. middle. Lobster Lobster salad. salado slrlpE SALADE DE DE HoMARo HOMARD -- See See SALAD, SALAD, Lobster Lobs/er salad. sa lad. Cold Cold lobster lobster with with various various sauces. sauces.. HoMARD HDMARD FRorD FROID AvEc AVEC sAUcEs SAUCES DrvERsEs nrVERSES -- Boil Boil the the lobster lobster in in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). (q .v,). Leave Leave to to cool. cool. Split Split itit in in two IwO lengthwise. lengthwise. Crack Crack the the shell shell of of the the claws claws so 50 that Ihal the the flesh ftesh can cau be taken taken out out easily. easily. Garnish Gamish with with fresh fresh parsley or or lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with with Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce or any other cold cold sauce, sauce, such such as as Gribiche, Gribiche, Rdmoulade, Rémoulade. Tartare (see SAUCE, .... " 'J"'~-'--. Cold Cold sauces\. sauces). (cold). Iobster in scallop shells Lobster in scallop shells (cold). coqunrrs COQUILLES FRorDEs FROIDES DE DE HoMARD HOMARD -- This This dish dish isis usually usually made made from from scraps. scraps.

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LORRAINE LORRAINE LORRAII\ELORRAINE - District District of ofhigh high gastronomic gastronomic repute' repute. Here Here the the connoisseur connoisseur of of good good cooking eooking will will savour savour many many succulent succulent

coatd coated with with aa little little cream cream sau@ sauce seasoned seasoned with wÎth

mustard. mustard. They They are are covered covered with with the the same same sauce sauce and and browned browned in in the the oven. FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY APPELLATIONS.) APPELLATIONS.) oven. (See (See FRENCH

dishes, dishes, and and will will find find white, white, red red and and rose rosé wines, wines, all ail delightful' delightful, though though some sorne are are more more fragrant fragrant than than others. others. Culinrry Culinllry specialities specialfties -- The The dishes dishes of of Lorraine Lorraine are, are, for for the the most most part, part, substantial. substantial. Heading Heading the the list list of of the the culinary culinary specialities specialities of of what wha t was was once once the the ancient ancient province province of of Lotharingie Lotharingie is is the the potie, potée, the the national national soup soup of of this this region. region.

LOCUST LOCUST or or CAROB CAROB TREE. TREE. cARouBE CAROUBE -- Leguminous Leguminous plant plant which which grows grows in in the the East East and and in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. The The long long pod con tains numerous numerous seeds seeds and and aa rather rather insipid insipid sweet sweet pod contains pulp. pulp.

LOIN. LOIN. clnnf CARRÉ -- The The front front part part of of a a hindquarter hindquarter of of beef, beef,

Then Then there there is is the the quiche, quiche, aa dish dish which which goes goes back back centuries centuries

in in the the gastronomic gastronomie history history of of Lorraine. Lorraine. This This is is aa tart tart made made

mutton, mutton, lamb, lamb, pork park or or veal veal with with the the flank flank removed. removed.

with with eggs, eggs, cream cream and and lean lean bacon. bacon. Itlt isis also also calledfdouse. caUed féouse.

LONGCHAMP -- A A broth broth fundamental fundamental to to Parisian Parisian cooking' eooking. LONGCHAMP shredded shredded sorrel sorrel and and vermicelli vermieelli in in consomm6 consommé and and adding a a puree purée of of fresh fresh green green peas. peas. (See (See SOUPS AND AND BROTHS.) BROTHS.)

Another characteristic local Anothercharacteristic local dish dish is is the the tourte tourie dà Ia la Lorraine, Lorraine, made made with with two two kinds kinds of of meat, rneat, veal veal and and pork. park. These These are are first first steeped steeped with with herbs herbs in in aa marinade marinade and and then then baked baked together together pastry. on on aa bed bed ofsavoury of savoury egg egg custard eustard in in aa pie pie crust erust offine of fine pastry. Other Other specialities specialities include include rarnequins; ramequins; kneppes; kneppes; oatfs oeufs dà l'escargot l'escargot (eggs (eggs with with snails); snails); choucroute choucroute (sauerkraut) (sauerkraut) d à la la

ItIt isis made made by by cooking eooking

LONGE LONGE - This This French French term term should refer refer only to to the the top top part part of of the the loin of of veal veal (see (sec VEAL). VEAL).

messine; messine; tourte tourte aux aux oignons oignons (onion (on ion tart tart similar sirnilar to 10 the the Strasbourg Strasbourg onion onion tart); tart); pdtis; pâtés: quenelles quenelles de de foie foie de de veau veau (calves' (calves' liver liver forcemeat forcemeat balls); balls); civet civet de de pork pork frais (civet (civet of of fresh fresh pork); park); and and aa whole who le series series of of local local pork park products, products, the the finest famous black black pudding pudding of of Nancy. Nancy. The The finest being being the the famous potted and pdtis potted meats meats and pâtés de de foie foie gras gras of of Lorraine Lorraine rival rival in in delicacy delicacy those those of of neighbouring neighbouring Alsace. Alsace. A Lazarque, devoted devoted a a book book of of A local local writer, writer, Auricoste A urieoste de de Lazarque, some sorne 300 300 pages pages to ta the Ihe gastronomy gastronomy of of his his homeland. homeland. He He d the matelote speaks speaks with with eloquence eloquence of of the matelole de de Metz; Metz; crayfish cray.fish à la la de Riom; mode de mode mode de de Boulay; Boulay; frogs frogs' legs legs d à Ia la mode Riom,' parttidge parlridge

It is, is, however, inaccurately inaceurately extended extended to ta refer to to the the same same part part of of any slaughtered animal. animal.

LONZO LONZO (Corsican (Corsiclln cookery) cookery) - Pork Pork product product eaten raw as as an euvre, like raw hors-d hors-d'œuvre. raw salt salt ham, harn, made from from boned fillet fi Il et of of pork. pork. This This is is steeped in brine with herbs and then dried.

LOQUAT LOQUAT or or JAPANESE JAPANESE MEDLAR. uirrr NÈFLE DU DU rAPoN JAPON small Fruit of the Japanese biwa.It biwa. It looks something like like a smatl plum. p[um. Its seeds are enclosed in a large stone. stone. Loquats Loquats ripen Provence from from April April onward. onward. They They are are quite quite sweet, slightly slightly tart, and refreshing. ptso-oE-vrAu -- Comman Common name LORDS LORDS AI\D AND LADIES. PIED-OE-VEAU contain edible roots of of which wild arum, arum, the for wi/d the tuberous raots for which contain cuckoo-pint and wake-robin. known as cuckoo-pinl fecula. It is also known wake-robin.

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LOTUS LOTUS goose pâté pdti ofof Rupt-de-Mad; the goose Rupt-de-Mad; soupe soupe dorée; dorie; meillal meillat or or the (applepies); miot; rouyals rouyals (apple pies); chaudée (a kind chaudee (a kind of apple tart); of apple tart); miol; (a kind chemitrds (a kind of of waffie); waffie); and and mally many other other delicious delicious chemitrés dishes. dishes. Among the the delicate pastries made delicate pastries made in in Lorraine Lorraine are are the the Among macaroons and and bergamotes bergamotes of of Nancy; Nancy; the the madeleines madeleines of of macaroons Commercy; the (similar to the kugelhupf kugelhupf (similar to that that of of Alsace); Alsace); Commercy; Nancy cake; cake; the the none nonettes of Remiremont; Remirem ont; aniseed aniseed bread; bread;and and Nancy Iles of plum larl. jams; the mirabelle plum tart. There There
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LOTUS -- In In ancient ancient Egypt Egypt the the tuberous tuberous stump stump of of white white LOTUS lotus was grilled or was eaten, eaten, grilJed or boiled. boiled. The pink lotus, The pink lotus, on on the the lotus other hand, hand, being being regarded regarded as as aa sacred plant, was sacred plant, was forbidden forbidden other food. food.

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LOVAGE. LIVÈCHE rrvicrn -- Herb Herb of of the angelica family, the angelica family, much much LOVAGE. used in Roman Roman cookery. young leaves, cookery. The The young leaves, ribs ribs and and leaf leaf used in stalks are are caten eaten like celery. The The seeds seeds are are used constalks like celery. use.d in in confectionery. fectionery . porvRErrE LOVE-IN-A-MIST. Common name name for LOVE-IN-A-MIST. PorVRETTE -- Common l'or the the cultivated nigella nigella (q.v.). cultivated (g.v.).

Excellent fish the Loire, the Sa0ne and and the Excellent fish is is caught in in the the Saône Rh6ne, as well as in the local ponds. Rhône, as weil as local ponds. Culinary The well-known Lyons smtsage; Culinary specialities - The Lyons sausage: pike an bleu; Ia lyonnaise; pike au bleu: quenel/es quenelles (fish (fish balls) balls) of of pike pike d à la gratin of crayfish crayfish tails; tails; matelots of of Laire Loire and Sa6ne Saône rtsh; fish; gratin of omelette la lyonnaise; ome/elle àd la lyonnaise; black black pudding with apples; apples: tipe tripe d à la lyonnaise; poached saveloy saveloy with pistachio pistachio nuts mils and truffies; truffles: lyonnaise; poached roulade of pig's pig's head; head; Charliat Charlieu chitterlings; chillerlings; ham ham with wi/h roulade of walnuts; walnuts: Marlhes Marlhes sausage; sausage; chicken chicken en en demi-deuill: demi-deuill; the celebrated poached chicken de Ia la mbre mère Filloux; Filloux; chicken chicken dà la celebrated poached crime; crème; chicken chicken en en vessie vessie (chicken (chicken sausage); chicken chicken cilestine céles/lne;; veal (veal sausage); sa usage) ; cardoons cardoons au au gratin. gratin. veal m en vessle vessie (veal Among are bugnes Among the the special special sweets sweets of of this this region region are bugnes Iyonnaises lyonnaises (a (a special special type type offritter); of fritter); acacia acacia blossomfritters; b/ossom frillers; frangipane; the the substantial substantial matefoim matefaim (a type type of pancake); pancake); frangipane; and and pumpkin pumpkin cake. cake. Wines Wines - Worthy Worthy accompaniment accompaniment of the the dishes dishes made made in in the the Lyonnais Lyonnais district, district, are are the the wines wines drunk dnmk by by the the gourmets gourmets of of this this foodJoving food-Ioving region. region. Beaujolais Beaujo/ais wines. wines. See See BURGUNDY. BURGUNDY. C6tes Côtes dt du Forez. Forez. Under Under this this V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. appellation appellation Lyonnais Lyonnais produces produces a a light light and and fruity fruit y Gamay Gamay red red wine wine not not unlike unlike Beaujolais. Beaujolais.

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LLJMPY. Stuffings or are sa said LUMPY. cRENU GRENU -- Stuffings or doughs doughs are id to to be be lumpy lumpy when are not smooth. when they they are not thoroughly thoroughly mixed mixed and and smooth. LLJNEL LUNEL WINE WINE -- Muscatel Muscatel wine wine made made in in the the H6rault Hérault coillmune, round This is commune, round about about Lunel. Lunel. This is a a sweet sweet dessert dessert wine. wine. * A pulse iUpnV LUPIN - A pulse (leguminous (Ieguminous plant) plant) used used as as fodder. fodder. Its Its bitter be eaten eaten after after soaking soaking in in water. water. bitter seeds seeds can can only only be

LUTE. LUTE. rur UIT -- A A paste paste which which hardens hardens as as itit dries. dries. It lt is is used used to 10 seal seal containers containers hermetically. hermetically. Almond Almond lute lute is is made made by by mixing mixing powdered powdered almonds, almonds, from from which which the the oil oil has has been been extracted, extracted, with with starch starch paste. pas te. In In cooking cooking, aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water paste paste is is used, used, which which is is also also called called repire repère or or repaire. repaire.

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LYONNAIS LYONNAIS -- The The Lyonnais Lyonnais distric! district, more more industrial industrial than than

agricultural, agrieultural, has has aa few few fertile fertile plains, plains, notably nota bly those those of of Forez Forez and and Roannais, Roannais, and and market market gardening gardening is is carried carried out out on on aa large scale in the area. There an is an abundance abundance of of good good large seale in the area. There is quality potatoes as as well weil as as excellent excellent onions, on ions, such such as as those those of of quality potatoes Roanne, Roanne, which which are are used used in in the the preparation preparation of of aa large large number number of of special special dishes, dishes, for for example example tripe tripe dà la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. Many Many other other vegetables vegetables are are grown. grown. Fruit Fruit production production isis also also an an important important industry, industry, and and some some fruit" fruit, such such as as the the apricots apricots of of Ampuis Ampuis have have aa well-deserved well-deserved reputation. reputation. So, So, too, 100, have have the the sweet sweet chestnuts chestnuts which which come come from from the the many man y trees trees that that flourish fiourish on on the the mountain mountain sides. sides. The neighbouring The neighbouring regions regions converge converge on on Lyons, Lyons, aa town town of of high high gastronomic gastronomie repute, repute, with with many many excellent excellent foodstuffs, foodstuffs, such as the the succulent succulent poultry poultry of of Bresse. Bresse. such as Excellent Excellent meat meat is is to to be be found found in in the the Lyonnais Lyonnais district. district. Pigs, bred in large provide many Pigs, bred in large numbers, numbers, provide Lyons Lyons with with the the many well-known well-known pork pork products products made made there. there. The The game game of of this this regron region isis also also of offine fine quality quality

LYOPHILISATION LYOPHlUSATION -- Lyophilisation Lyophilisation or or freeze-drying freeze-drying is is aa method of drying drying prefrozen prefrozen products. products. The The process process isis carried carried method of out in several several stages stages and and results results in in aa perfectly perfectly dry, dry, stable, stable, out in end end product, product, unaltered unaltered in in quality. quality. Foods Foods of of animal animal and and vegetable vegetable origin origin treated treated thus thus (delicate (delicate fruit, fruit, fruit fruit juices, juices, vegetables, vegetables, coffee, coffee, tea, tea, milk, milk, fish fish fillets, fillets, certain certain meats) meats) have have the aroma, vitamins, vitamins, fatty fatty acids acids and and the same same textureo texture, taste, taste, arom4 proteins. proteins. Other Other advantages advantages are are easy easy rehydration rehydration of of the the treated treated foods; instant consumption; consumption; long-term long-term conservation; conservation; ease ease foods; instant of of transport, transport, storage storage and and distribution distribution (weight (weight and and volume volume are are reduced, reduced, due due to 10 the the elimination elimination of ofwater). water). 566 566

g. BEURRE -- Add Add 75 75 g. AU BEURRE MAcARoNI AU Macaroni widl with butter. MACARONI Macaroni pieces, to to (3 oz., cut into into small small pieces, fresh butter, butter, eut o2.,66 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh (3 butter isis well well the butter Toss so so that that the Season. Toss cooked macaroni. Season. the the cooked in. mixed in. Another FRoMAGE -- Another AU FROMAGE MAcARoNI AU with cbeese. cheese. MACARONI Macaroni with (see below). below). name à l'italienne (see for Macaroni Macaronidl'italienne name for Boil the m CRÈME the cntilrle -- Boil MAcARoM ÀA LA Macaroni with with cream. cream. MACARONI Macaroni put back Drain and and put back cooked. Drain macaroni macaroni until until itit isis three-parts three-parts cooked. all moisture. moisture. to evaporate evaporate ail on the stove to the stove in in the saucepan on the saucepan (* pint, pint" seant fresh cream. cream. boiled fresh scant cup) cup) boiled Moisten with 22 dl. dl. (1 Moisten with pinch of with aa pinch of 12 minutes. minutes. Season Season with l0 to to 12 Simmer for 10 Simmer slowly slowly for pan from from the grated nutmeg. Remove the the nutmeg. Remove the pan and aa little little grated salt salt and cut into into g.Q* butter eut oz., 55 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter mix in in 60 60 g. and mix stove (2t oz., stove and pieces. small small pieces. I'italienne asfor Macaroni àdl'italienne for Macaroni la créole cr6ole -- Proceed Proceed as Macaroni Macaroni ài la peppers (q.v.) of sweet peppers of sweet (see below). coarse salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (see Make aa coarse below). Make (zucchini, marrows (zucchini, vegetable marrows (green and very small small vegetable (green and red), red), very and aa touch touch in oil, oil, and tossed in courgettes) tomatoes tossed in oil, oil, tomatoes courgettes) tossed tossed in with the the salpicon with Mix this this salpicon of garlic. Bind Bind with with cheese. cheese. Mix of garlic. macaroni. macaroni. These EN CROQUETTFS cRoQt ETrrs - - These MAcARoNI EN Macaroni Macaroni croquettes. croquettes. MACARONI (see CROQUETTES) using CROQUETTES) using are way (see in the usual way are made made in tne usual and blended dicd and blended drained, dieed macaroni, water, drained, in salt salt water, macaroni, boiled boiled in (se SAUCE). SAUCE). with sauce (see Bichatnel sauce with Allemande Allemande or or Béchamel as for for Macaroni Macaroni àd Macaroni fermiire -- Proceed Proceed as Macaroni ài lala fermière with (see below). l'italienne dish alternating alternating with in aa deep deep dish below). Serve Serve in I'italienne (see celery, onion onion layers carrots, turnips, turnips, celery, of carrots, vegetable fondue layers of of aa vegetable fondue of very butteruntil until very and cookedslowly slowly inin butter and cooked and leek, finely sliced sliced and leek, finely tender. tender.

Italy MACARONI -- A from ltaly food, originally from A farinaceous food, MACAROhU (sorne (some authorities it origin), where it as its place of origin), authorities give Naples as has been been eaten for centuries. like aU all other pasta, centuries. Macaroni, Iike has is very nourishing. nourishing. Cooking macaroni. CUISSON Put 22 litres DB MACARONI MAcARoNI -- Put culssoN DE (3! of in the ratio of adding salt in (3| pints, 4! 4| pints) water in aa pan, :idding 11teaspoons per litre (seant (scant quart, generous quart). Bring it it l| teaspoons (5 oz.) into g. (5 in 150 g. oz.) macaroni, broken into boil and and put in to the the boil pieces. pieces. Boil very fast thickthe thick16 to 20 20 minutes according to the for 16 fast for ness products, macaroni pasta products, all pasta Like ail macaroni. Like of the the macaroni. ness of must from the Remove the the saucepan saucepan from must not not be be overcooked. Remove stove. Coyer in the water for for aa to sweU the water swell in Cover it and leave the pasta to few few minutes. Drain put itit back in the the saucepan. saucepan. and put back in macaroni and Drain the the macaroni Evaporate ail few for aa few leaving itit on on the the stove stove for by Jeaving all moisture by seconds. get rid absorbed rid of any any water absorbed to get This is is necessary necessary to seconds. This by cooking. during cooking. by the the macaroni during Proceed the recipe recipe used. used. Proceed according according to to the Macaroni as indicated indicated macaroni as Boil the Macaroni àA l'anglaise I'anglaise -- Boil the macaroni above. platter. Serve with butter. butter. Serve with serving platter. above. Heap on on aa serving Macaroni tablespoons Add several several tablespoons la béchamel bechamd -- Add Macaroni ài la Béchamel (see SAUCE) macaroni. cooked macaroni. SAUCE) to to the the cooked Bdchatnel sauce sauce (see Season. (scant add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (seant Mix. Just before serving, Just before serving, add Season. Mix. tt cup) cup) butter.

Macaroni gratin augratin Macaroni au

Macaroni I'italienne gratin-- Proceed Macaroniàdl'italienne forMacaroni Proceed asasfor Macaroni au augratin (see and (see below). withbutter butterand dish lined linedwith anovenware ovenware dish below). Serve Serve ininan grated mixed with mixed macaroni with gratedcheese. themacaroni topofofthe cheese. Sprinkle Sprinkle the thetop

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MACAROON MACAROON grated cheese. breadcrumbs and and grated cheese. Pour Pour melted melted butter butter over over and and breadcrumbs brown in in the the oyen. oven. brown Macaroni àI l'italienne (2 OZ., I'italienne -- Add Add 50 50 g.g. (2 oz., f cup) grated Macaroni (a mixture cheese (a mixture of of Gruyère Gruydre and and Parmesan) Parmesan) and 50 g.g. Q OZ., oz., cheese cup) butter butter cut cut into pieces, to into small small pieces, to the the cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. i* cup) Season with with salt grated nutmeg. salt and and aa !ittle little grated nutmeg. Toss Toss to mix Season to mix thoroughly. Heap on on aa serving serving plate. One One kind kind of of cheese cheese thoroughly. need be only need be used, though though aa mixture of of Parmesan Parmesan and and only gives better Gruydre gives better results. results. Gruyère Macaroni ài lala Lucullus Lucullus -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni àd Macaroni I'italienne. Serve Serve in in aa dish dish with with alternate alternate layen of of aa coarse coarse l'italienne. gras and salpicon of of foie gras and truffies blended in aa very contruffies blended consalpicon (se,e SAUCE). centrated Madeira sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate the top top of centrated of macaroni with the macaroni with strips strips of of truffie. truffie. the Macaroni ài la la milanaise milanaise -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni Macaroni àd Macaroni I'italienne. Add Add 22 to (see to 33 tablespoons tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see l'italienne. flavoured with with tomato, tomato, and and 22 to SAUCE) flavoured to 33 tablespoons of SAUCE) of (coarsely shredded garnish (coarsely Milanaise garnish shredded ham, ham, pickled lOngue, Milanaise tongue, mushrooms and and truffies). truffies). mushrooms Mix weil well and and heap on platter. on aa serving serving platter. Mix Macaroni àil la la mirepoix -- Make (q.v.) of Make aa mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) Macaroni of vegetables, rather rather coarsely coarsely diced, diced, cooked cooked slowly vegetables, slowly in in butter butter until very tender and blended tender and blended with with cheese. cheese. It until It should should be be aa quarter of the weight of the weight of the the macaroni. Mix the quarter the mirepoix mirepoix macaroni. Mix with the the cooked cooked macaroni. macaroni. Put Put in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish with dish lined lined with butter butter and and grated cheese. cheese. Sprinkle with Sprinkle the the top top of of the the with cheese. Pour Pour butter butter over macaroni with over and and brown in the brown in the oven. oyen. Macaroni ài la la Nantua -- Macaroni àd l'italienne Macaroni l'italienne served served in in aa pie crust of lining pastry baked baked blind, with alterna te layers pie alternate layers (see CRA Nantua (see of Crayfish tail ragofrt d la Nantua YFISH). CRAYFISH). la napolitaine 1I -- Proceed as Macaroni àA la for Macaroni àd as for (scant * cup) I'italienne. Add Add 33 tablespoons (scant l'italienne. cup) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE) to macaroni. Mix. to the the macaroni. Mix. Serve in (see in aa deep deep dish. dish. Sprinkle with grated cheese. MjRl{,~ll"nni à Macaroni i la napoHtaine ntr -- Break sorne some thick macaroni into short sticks, and boil in salt water until the the macaroni is three-parts cooked. Drain and mix with butter. Put the macaroni in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish lined lined with with butter and grated cheese, with with alternate layers layers of cooked Braised beef (se BEEF) BEEF) rubbed through a sieve. Sprinkle the layers with grated grated cheese. Warm Warm over over a low heat and serve. Macoronl la pi6montaise piémontaise -- Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni àd Macaroni ià la as for l'italienne. l'italienne. After After adding the the butter butter and and cheese, cheese, add add very finely sliced sliced white trufres. truffies. Mix and serve serve in aa deep dish. The white truffies of the macaroni. macaroni. truffles are cooked by the heat of Macaroni with seafood. searood. MAcARoNT MACARONI Arrx AUX FRUrrs FRUITS DE DE MER -Proceed Proceed as for Macaroni Macaroni d à I'italienne. l'italienne. Serve in a deep dish with alternate alternate layers of of Seafood Seafood ragofrt ragoût (see RAGOOQ. RAGOûT). Macaroni ià la sicilienne -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Macaroni dà I'italienne. l'italienne. Add, Add, at the the same time as the butter and cheese, cheese, aa few purée of chicken chicken livers livers mixed mixed with few tablespoons tablespoons of puree Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Serve Serve in a deep deep dish. dish. Macaroni in stock. MAcARoM MACARONI AU AU JUs JUS -- Boil the macaroni macaroni Macaroni in until is three-parts cooked. cooked. Drain Drain and and put in a saucepan saucepan until it is with with brown brown veal or or beef beef stock. stock. Cover Coyer and and leave leave to simmer sim mer slowly slowly for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Heap on and pour pour over over it it 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons on aa serving serving dish dish and (3 (3 tablespoons) tat,]esPol:ms concentrated concentrated brown brown stock. stock. Macaroni with tomato MACARONI A À Ll LA roMlTE TOMA TE tomato sauce. sauce. MAcARoM Proceed Proceed as as fot for Macaroni Macaroni in in stock, stock, substituting substituting tomato tomato sauce sauce for for the the stock. stock. Macaroni wi0r with trufres. truffles. MAcARoNT MACARONI Aux AUX rRr,JFFDs TRUFFES - Mix Mix Macaroni -butter in butter butter, cheese cheese and and coarsely coarsely shredded shredded trufres truffies tossed tossed in butter, with with the the macaroni. macaroni. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with strips strips of of trufles. truffies.

The The originof of this this pastryisisunknown. unknown. Sorne Some authorities authorities suggest suggest that this little biscuit was thislitde was invented inventedininItaly, ltaly, and andfrom from there therecame came toto France, France, where where itit was wasappreciated appreciated by by conconnoisseurs, noisseurs, and and was was subsequently subsequentlymass produced. massproduced. Delicately Delicately flavoured flavoured macaroons macaroons are are made made inin various parts variousparts of of France. France. Those Those of of Nancy are are considered considered the the best. best.They They have have been been made made for for nearly two two centuries centuries by by successive successive generations generationsof of the the same same family,and andare areknown known as asthe macathe macaroons roons of 'MacaroonSisters'. of the the'Macaroon Sisters'. In In the the eighteenth century, century, itit became became the custom ininmany the custom many convents convents for the the nuns nuns to make macaroons. macaroons. The to make The nuns nunsof of the the Convent Convent of of the the Visitation Visitation of of Our Our Lady Lady atat Melun Melunmade made these these and and other other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. When, When, in in 1748, 1748, the the Court Court was was atat Fontainebleau, Fontainebleau, the the Dauphin vent of Dauphin and and his his wife wife went went to visit the the Con to visit Convent of the the Visitation Visitation of of Our Lady at at Melun, Melun, atat the Our Lady the Port Port de de Bière Bidre the the procession procession was was addressed addressed by the Mayor, who the Mayor, who offered offered the the th aa basket ts, visitors visitors aa ceremonial ceremonial bottle bottle of wine wi with of biscui basket of biscuits, macaroons, macaroons, sugar and other sugar sticks sticks and other sweetmeats. sweetmeats. Plain Plain macaroollS. macaroons. MACARONS MAcARoNs ORDINAIRES oRDTNATRES -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar 11- cups) (7 OZ., mortar 200 200 g. (7 oz.,lj (4 of cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds (4 of which which should should be be bitter almonds) almonds) moistened moistened with with 1I egg egg white. white. As As soon ~ as the soon as almonds are the almonds are weil pounded, add (5 OZ., well pounded, add 150 150 g. g. (5 oz.,l cup) cup) su-gar. Mix Mix and and add add I egg egg white. white. Still mixing, add 150 g. g. Still mixing, add 150 (5 OZ., (5 o2.,3 cup) cup) sugar sugar and and the rest rest of of the the egg egg white. white. The The mixture mixture must must be be rather rather soft soft but but not If necessary not runny. runny. Ifnecessary at at this add anothed this stage stage add another I egg egg white white and and mix mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Pipe Pipe the the mixture onto onto aa sheet paper. The sheet of of rice rice paper. The macaroons macaroons should should be be 33 to to 44 cm. cm. (ll inches) inches) in in diameter, diameter, and and far far enough apart prevent them apart to to prevent them from running into into one one another another during baking. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with icing (350'F., Gas and bake icing sugar sugar and bake at at 180°C. 180'C. (350°F., Gas Mark ch Mark 4) 4) for for 20 20 minutes minutes or or until until the macaroons are the macaroons are aa ririch golden col our. colour. Crisp Crisp macaroollS. macaroons. MACARONS MAcARoNs CROQUANTS cRoeuANTs -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar 250 (9 OZ., g. (9 250 g. oz.,lf cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with aa little little egg g. (9 OZ., egg white. Add 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) cup) sugar sugar flavoured flavoured to taste. Mix weil. (9 OZ., well. Add Add to the g. (9 the mixture mixture 250 250 g. generous oz., I!erlen)us cup) sugar and enough enough egg white to make aa fairly to make fairly soft but not runny paste. Spoon Spoon small heaps heaps of of this mixture onto this mixture rice onto rice paper. Bake at (350"F., Gas at 180°C. 180'C. (350°F., Gas Mark Mark 4) 4) for for 18 l8 to to 20 20 minutes. Hazelnut macaroons. macartxms. MACARONS MAcARoNs AUX Aux NOISETTES NorsETTns -- HazelHazelnuts, egg whites and nuts, and sugar are are used used for for these these macaroons. macaroons. The hazelnuts are are not blanched. The The method method is is the the same same as as for plain macaroons. Pine kernel macaroons macaroons can can also also be be made made in in the the same same way. way. In accordance accordance with aa regulation regarding regarding the the naming of of foodstuffs, the above above biscuits may may no no longer longer comnner'ci2ll1 commercially be called macaroons in France. be macaroons in France. macaroons. MAcARoNs MACARONS DE DE MoNTMoRTLLoN MONTMORILLON Montmorillon macaroons. These macaroons are shaped through aa fluted fluted nozzle nozzle into These shaped through into They are a speciality of Vienna. rings. are speciality of Vienna. MACARONS DE DE MoRT NIORT - Pound in aa macaroollS. MAcARoNs Niort macarqrril in - Pound mortar 375 OZ., 2i cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with 55 egg egg mortar 375 g. (13 oz.,2t 500 g. (18 oz., OZ., 2f 2i cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Transfer Transfer the the mixmixwhites and 500 saucepan and and dry dry out out on on the the stove. stove. Add Add 44 ture to a small smalt saucepan ture te3isp oOIrJ.S finely finely chopped crystallised crystallised angelica. angelica. teaspoons as usual. usual. Proceed as parisienne. MAcARoNs MACARONS A À r,l LA pl,nnlENNE PARISIENNE MacaroollS ià la parisienne. Macaroore Pound in in aa mortar mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 oz.,li OZ., li cups) cups) blanched blanched almonds almonds Pound with 4 whites. Add 375 g. (13 OZ., 3 cups) fine sugar and with 4 egg whites. Add 375 g. (13 oz., 3 cups) fine sugar and aa Put the the mixture mixture in in aa bowl bowl and and blend blend !ittle vanilla. Mix Mix well. weil. Put little onto rice rice in 2 2 more more egg egg whites. whites. Whisk Whisk the the mixture. mixture. Pipe Pipe onto in paper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and bake bake as as indicated indicated above. above. paper. Soft macarootr. macaroollS. MAcARoNs MACARONS MoBLLEUX MOELLEUX - Pound in aa Soft in -250Pound mortar 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,l| OZ., Ji cups) almonds almonds with with 250 (9 o2.,2 OZ., 2 moftar g. (9 lump sugar. sugar. Pound Pound into this this mixture mixture enough double double cups) lump cups) 1

MACAROON. MACAROON. M,c,clnoNMACARON - Small SmalJ round round dry dry pastry pastry made made of of almond paste, pas te, sugar sugar and and egg egg white. white. almond 568 568

salad basket basket oflresh or fresh brown brown eggs(Phot. eggs (Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) AAsalad

MACKEREL

or filleted, in a mackerel, sliced sliced or NoISETTE Poach the the mackerel, NOISETTE -- Poach and pour lemon juice dish and on aa serving serving dish court-bouillon. Put itit on on 22 to tablespoons butter to 33 taIJlesP()011S serving, pour on over it. it. Before serving, heated in a pan until nut brown. AU BEURRE BEURRE uaQurnrAu AU II. MAQUEREAU M,~{'L[,por,po1 with browned butter n. Mackerel fillet il. Poach in in mackerel into thick thick slices slices or fiUet NorR -- Cut the mackerel it. Poach NOm. dish and and serving dish Put on on aa serving aa vinegar court-bouillon. Drain. Put and chopped parsley and little in the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped dry it aa !ittle juice or it. Before Before or vinegar over over il. little lemon juice Pour aa little capers. Pour capers. (3 tablespoons) heated tablespoons) butter heated tablespoons (3 serving, pour on 2 tablespoons very dark dark brown. in aa frying pan until very as follows: follows: be prepared as The mackerel can also be and sprinkle with Dry in in the oven and sprinkle with dish. Dry the oyen it on aa serving dish. Put il juice or it. Pour Pour or vinegar vinegar over over it. little lemon juice capers. Pour capers. Pour aa little with 22 tablespoons tablespoons above, with as indicated indicated above, on on browned browned butter as (3 tablespoons) parsley leaves in il. it. leaves fried fried in (3 fish Slit tbe the fish MAQUEREAU COLBERT coLBERr -- SIit Mackerel Colbert. MAQUEREAU with and remove remove the bone. Se Season the bone. along the as on with back. Open Open itit and the back. pepper. Dip and deep-fry. deep-fry. in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and Dip in egg and and pepper. salt salt and (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see Serve with Maître Maitre d'hôtel Serve with butters). AU COURT-BOUILMleueREAU AU couRT-BouILM:aC}ter,el in court-bouillon. Mackerel in court-bouillon. MAQUEREAU in aa court-bouillon of or sliced, court-bouillon of LON LoN -- Poach Poach the fish, whole whole or sliced, in the fish, juice, seasoned lemon juice, with salt salt and and or lemon seasoned with water water with with vinegar or leaves. and bay flavoured with bay leaves. with thyme thyme and with one one of of the the fresh parsley. Serve Serve with Drain. Garnish Garnish with with fresh Lobster, Hollandaise, Lobster, following Butter, Parsley, Hollandaise, following sauces: saucesi BUller, (see SAUCE). Venetian (see SAUCE). Ravigote, Venetian FILETS DE oe MAQUEREAU uequenreu Àl la dieppoise. dieppoise. FILETS Fillets of of mackerel mackerel àir la drain. and drain. LA white wine, wine, and fillets in LA DIEPPOISE DrEppoIsE -- Poach Poach the in white the fillets (see garnish (see Dieppoise garnish Arrange on dish surrounded by aa Dieppoise on aa dish surrounded by (see SAUCE), While wine wine sauce sauce (see with White SAUCE), GARNISHES). Coyer Cover with and fillets fillets added added to it. with the cooking mussels and liquor of of the to il. cooking liquor the mussels parsley. garnish with with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle the the garnish DE MAQUEREA MAQUERBAU U FILETS DE Filleb of of mackerel mackerel with with aubergines. auberginesi. FILETS AUX and fry in butter butter àd fillets and fry them them in AUX AUBERGINES AUBERGINES -- Season Season the the fillets la dish. Surround Surround with with on aa serving la meunière. meuniire. Put Put them them on serving dish. juice over lemon juice over slices bergine fried Squeeze lemon in butter. butter. Squeeze slices of of au aubergine fried in piping hot. hot. the fillets. Pour Pour on on the cooking butter, butter, piping the cooking the fillets. FILETs DE os MAQUEREAU L{lQUEREnu ÀA FiJlets la florentine. florentine. FILETS Fillets of of mackerel mackerel ili la wine. little white white wine. LA in aa very very little fillets in the fiJlets Cook the LA FLORENTINE FLoRENTnis -- Cook on this of Cook Her. Arrange this bed bed of Arrange the the fillets in bu butter. leaf spinach Cook leaf spinach in tllets on (see SAUCE) with the spinach. the Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) witb with Mornay Cover with spinach. Coyer cheese fish with grated cheese it. Sprinkle Sprinkle with added to to it. fish cooking stock stock added grill. and in the oven or or under aa grill. and brown brown in the oyen and melted butter and AU Fillets DE MAQUEREAU MAQUEREAU AU FILETS DE Filleb of of mackerel mackerel au au gratin. FILETS (see SOLE). gratin (see GRATIN an gratin SOLE). as for for So/e au cRATIN -- Proceed Proceed as garnishes FILETS Fillets FILETS DE DE with various various gamishes. Filleb of mackerel with of mackerel and MAQUEREAU in butter DrvERsEs -- Cook Cook in butter and MAeuEREAU AVEC AVEc GARNITURES cARNITUREs DIVERSES surround cdpes sautéed saut6ed following garnishes: cèpes with one one of of the the following surround with in in butter; butter; cucumber cucumber of mushrooms cooked in in oil; oil; thick slices ofmushrooms thick slices cut very small and cooked cooked in in butter; butter; very small chunks and into small oval chunks cut into small oval vegetable (courgettes or cut into into rounds rounds or zucchinis) zucchinis) cut vegetable marrows marrows (courgettes and in oil oil or or butter butter saut6ed in or oil; oil: tomatoes tomatoes sautéed and sautéed in butter butter or sautEed in and potatoes sautéed garlic; coarsely coarsely diced diced potatoes saut6ed and ftavoured with garlic; flavoured with in in butter. butter. juice and piping hot, Pour hot, cooking butter, butter, piping and the the cooking Pour lemon lemon juice over over the fillets. the fiJlets. ps MAQUEREAU Fillets FILETs DE luA.QunnrA,u ÀA la lyonnaise. FILETS Fillets of mackerel ài la of mackerel (3 tatlles,poons) LA tablespoons) Line aadish dish with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 LA LYONNAISELyoNNArse- Line chopped gently cooked cooked in in butter butter and has been been gently which has chopped onion onion which moistened lay vinegar. Season fillets, lay Season the the fiUets, moistened with with 11 tablespoon tablespoon vinegar. them with more more onion onion and coyer cover them onion and them with on top of the the onion them on top of prepared Moisten with! with +dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, prepared in way. Moisten in the the same same way. scant t cup) white and dot dot with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and wine. Sprinkle Sprinkle with white wine. scant* with with oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Bake in in the the oyen. of butter. butter. Bake with tiny tiny pieces of chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Fillets DEMAQUEREAU MAQUEREAU pi6montaise. FILETS FILETSDE mackerel ài lala piémontaise. Fillets of of mackerel

cream and egg white soft but not wbite to make a paste which is soft runny. runny. Spoon the mixture onto sheets of rice paper and and bake as indicated above. above. indicated

MACE. MAcrs MACIS - Dried Dried shell of the the nutmeg. Its Its flavour is midway between It is between that of nutmeg and and cinnamon. lt is used used Bavour marinades, brines and and sauces. to flavour MACEDOINE fruit or vegeMACÉDOINE -- Mixture or raw raw or cooked fruit tables. It can be served either hot or cold. tables.

The name name macddoine macédoine is is derived derived from from Macedonia, the The formed by by small were conquered by which were country formed small states which

Alexander ""'-''''''''''J'-' the Great. DE FRUITSFRUITs MACÉDOINE oF OF FRUIT. ulcfoonr MACÉDOINE DE MACEDOINE

(fruit salad). nn rrancEoonm DE Macédoine of fruit, chilled salad). MACÉDOINE chilled (fruit Mac6doine of fruit, such as in season, season, such in aa bowl, fruit in - Mix in sliced pears, peeled and quartered or sliced and sliced sliced bananas, sliced apricots, strawberries, strawberries, whoJe apricots, whole raspberries, raspberries, blanched blanched fresh almonds, etc. each fruit, or sprinkle each Pour aa heavy sugar syrup over the fruit, layer of fruit with fine sugar. few teaspoons sugar. Flavour with aa few of kirsch, maraschino, or other liqueur. liqueur. Embed the bowl of fruit in in aa bucket of crushed ice. Leave chili for 2 hours. to chill RAFRAÎCHIS FRUITS RAFRAicHIs

MACÉDOINE OF ou LÉuacfDoINE DE I,6VEGETABLES. MACÉDOINE MACEDOINE OF VEGETABLES.

GUMESGUMES _

Macédoine os butter. MACÉDOINE LtAc6nonIE DE with butter. Mac6doine of of vegetables vegetables with AU and turnips into balls carrots and turnips into AU BEURRE BEURR.E -- Shape Shape carrots with aa ball-scoop, bali-scoop, or dice them beans or or finely. Dice French beans them finely. cut them into lozenges. Dice green asparagus tips. Boil each each tips. Boil of these green peas peas separately in salt separately in salt and sorne some green these vegetables and water. Heat the vegetables together and and blend in butter. butter. Season. Season. blend in Cold oe LÉGUMES r6cuues MAcfDoINE DE of vegetables. vegetables. MACÉDOINE Cold macédoine macedoine of FROIDS rRoros -- Prepare, cook and mix in a bowl the same vegetables with buller. butter. of vegelables vegetables with Macidoine of as in the recipe for for Macédoine Dress with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper or with mélvo'nn.als;e. mayonnaise. This dish can be ad or an "E>"·o_."m',,,,~n hors-d'euvre. as aa sai salad or an be eaten eaten either either as Macédoine DE uacfootxr DE cream. MACÉDOINE Mac6doine of vegetables with with cream. of vegetables LÉGUMES mixture of cook the same same mixture of r6crnars À A LA rl CRÈME cniw -- Prepare and cook ve)get.ables Blend in in fresh cream. vegetables as as above. above. Blend fresh cream. M:acÉ~doine A op LÉGUMES I-fcuuns À MAcfDoINE DE Mac6doine of vegetables in jeUy. ielly. MACÉDOINE LA which isis usually usually served served rr GELÉE This type of macédoine, macidoine, which cnlfn -- This type of jelly stock, with mayonnaise set mixed with with concentrated concentrated jelly stock, isis set mayonnaise mixed jelly. ItIt ISis also in as aspic aspic of of also known known as mould Iined lined with with jelly. in aa mould vegelables. vegetables.

LÉGUMES rfcuuns

MACKEREL. - A fish. A long, slender. saltwater fish. MACKEREL. MAQUEREAU MAeuEREAUslender, saltwater Ils blue or or and smooth, back steely steely blue Its scales are small smooth, its back scales are small and greenish, and greenish, its white. It It isis fatty fatty and an opalescent opalescent silvery white. its belly an savoury, or soused. soused. and is is eaten eaten fresh, fresh, smoked, smoked, salted or savoury, and lts mackerel isis derived derived soombrid. The The name name mackerel Its real real name name is is soombrid. from means aa which also also means word maquerean which from the French word the French 'procurer' or fish because of its its 'pimp'. ItIt was was given to to this this fish because of or 'pimp'. (known as 'virgins') to as 'virgins') to the the habit of of escorting escorting the the young shad (known males. males. The The male mackerel mackerel is is polygamous. The young mackerels sansonnets. for young mackerels isis sansonnets. The French French name name for Mackerel A L'ANGLAISE t'lNctltss -- Cut Mackerd àI l'anglaise. I'anglaise. MAQUEREAU MAeT.JEREAU À Cut the the v.) flavoured fish (q.v.) flavoured in aa court-bouillon fish into court-bouillon (q. into thick Poach in thick slices. slices. Poach with fennel. gooseberry purée. pur6e. rather liquid liquid gooseberry fennel. Serve with aa rather Serve with Mackerel nouroNu BOULONMackerel ài la la boulonnaise. boulonnaise. MAQUEREAU ueeuEREAU ÀA LA NAISE Poach in in aa courtcourtmackerel into NAISE -- Cut into thick slices. Poach thick slices. Cut the the mackerel with aa good deal bouillon and skin. Drain and skin. Arrange deal of vinegar. Drain bouillonwith on on aa dish dish and surround surround with shelled, shelled, poached mussels. Coyer (see SAUCE) moistened with a little wfih Buller Butter sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mc,isten(x! Cover with of mussel cooking of the mackerel and and mussel cooking stocks. stocks. the mackerel Mackerel BEURRE rraleunnsAu AU AU BEURRE Mackerel with with browned browned butter butter J.I. MAQUEREAU 569 s69 Newly (Poilane. Phol. phot. Nicolas) Newly baked baked bread bread(Poilane. Nicolasl

MACON WINE MÂCONWINE

How contourt of of the How to fillet fillet mackerel mackerel:: Trace the contour'S (Laroussel fillet with aaknlfe fillet knife (Larousse)

Slide the knife knife along the backbooe backbone and detach Slide (.I-arozsse) the fillet (Larousse)

dip in egg and fillets and and dip the fillets in egg rn Season the - Season breadcrumbs. Fry in butter. (q.v.) and surround with a of risotto risotto (g.v.) Serve on a foundation of FONDUE). border of Tomato fondue (see FONDUE). la vénitienne. FiBets Filleb of mackerel àdr la v6nitienne. FILETS FILETS DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU wine with À LA - Cook the fillets fillets in in white A re VÉNITIENNE vENnTENNE Cook the white wine and chervil. chopped shallots and chervil. Drain. Put on aa serving dish. (sw SAUCE) Venetian sauce sauce (see which the Coyer to which with Venetian SAUCE) to Cover with boiled-down pan juices have been added. boiled-down AU Filleb of mackerel rrrEls DE MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU AU Fillets mackerel in white wiue. wine. FILETS BLANC- Trim the fillets vrN BLANCfillets and and season VIN season them with salt and pepper. Put in in aa buttered baking tin. Moisten with with conpepper. Put buttered baking tin. Moisten (q.v.) and and bake in centrated white wine fumet (g.v.) wine fish fumet in the oyen oven for 8 to to 10 minutes. Drain, boil down the pan juices and use for White wine sauce (see SAUCE). as a basis for SAUCE). Pour the sauce over the mackerel and and serve. u.a.quEREAU FRIT FRIT -- This This is is especially especially Fried Fried mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU suitable for in cold, boiled milk. Flour for small mackerel. Dip in lightly and deep-fry deep-fry in very hot fat. Drain, dry on a cloth and and parsley and with dry dry table season season with table salt. salt. Gamish Garnish with with fried fried parsley lemon. MAeUEREAU GRILLÉ GriUed Gri[ed mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAU cRrrrf -- Snip off the the tip of jaw and and slit the fish along the the mackerel's jaw the fish the back. back. Open Open it places without separating and cut the bone in two places separating the halves. grill slowly. Season, baste with melted butter and grill form. Pour Shape Shape the in its its original Pour on on half the mackerel in original form. (see BUTTER, melted Maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter melted Maître butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). grilled fish, Any sauce for grilled fish, e.g. Any sauce suitable suitable for e.g. Bordelaise, Bordelaise, (see SAUCE) can Provençale, Provengale, Saint-Malo Saint-Malo (see can be be served served with mackerel. Mackerel la meunière. meuniire. MAQUEREAU MAeUEREAU À A LA LA MEUNIÈRE urtrNrine -Mackerel ài la Prepare like Bass àd la la meunière like,Bass meuniire (see BASS). BASS). Mackerel roes. LAITANCES LArrANcEs DE DE MAQUEREAU Mackerel soft soft roes. MAeUEREAU -- See See SOFT ROES. Soused Sorned mackerel. mackerel. MAQUEREAUX MAeuEREAtrx MARINÉS MlnrNss -- Usually Usually served served as as aa cold cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Proceed Proceed as as for for Marinade Marinade of of fresh fresh herrings (see HERRING).

all from and Pouilly-Vinzelles, Fuissé, Pouilly-Loché and Pouilly-Vinzelles, ail from the Fuiss6, Pouilly-Loch6 Micon. (See BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) Solutré Solutr6 region, south of Mâcon.

,d, À LA prcraoNrArsE PIÉMONTAISE -

MACONNAISE -- Wine Wine cask Miconnais cask in in use use in in the the Mâconnais MÂCONNAISE (46| gallons, 58 gallons). about 212 2l2litres district. It holds about litres (461 (1+ is also applied to aa bottle, containing 8 dl. bottle, containing dl. (1 This name is t Mnconnais wines. lJ pints), which is used for Mâconnais pints, IJ

(A LA) given to various meat Name given to various MACONNAISE (À MÂCONNAISE LA) -- Name dishes flavoured with red wine. in dyeing, dyeing, from used in cARANcE -- Plant Plant used MADDER-WORT. MADDER-WORT. GARANCE which a kind of beer can be brewed. g. (18 oz., 4t cups) sifted flour MADEIRA CAKE CAKE -- Mix 500 g. (l lb., g. (1 and 1b.,2 with tI teaspoon 2 cups) butter and teaspoon salt. salt. Cream 450 g. (l lb., and Beat 10 l0 egg yolks untillight until light and g. (1 1b.,2 450 g. 2 cups) sugar. Beat mixture. Sift in the add to the flour gradually. Add t+ add to the the butter mixture. grated rind of I lemon. Beat teaspoon teaspoon lemon essence and the grated Line 22 900-g. 900-9. (2-lb.) and fold fold in. in. Line stiff, and the the egg egg whites until stiff, paper. Pour paper or Pour the or waxed waxed paper. with buttered bread buttered paper bread tins tins with pans and with sugar. and sprinkle sprinkle the the surface surface with batter into the the pans batter into (300"F., Gas Mark 2). Place small lf hours at at 150°C. 150'C. (300°F., Bake liafter the the cake after citron on on the the surface surface of the slices of éandied candied citron first 15 l5 minutes of baking. first

t

This wine, wine, which which is vIN DE DE MADÈRE MADTRE -- This WINE. VIN MADEIRA WINE. grown on Madeira in in the grapes grown the on the the island island of Madeira made made from from grapes Atlantic Atlantic Ocean, is one of the finest of fortified wines. Madeira, such such as are made made in in Madeira, Various types of wine wine are Various types of of Malmsey, Muscatel, Dry Madeira, made from the grapes of into Madeira Madeira have been imported into vines which are said to have been imported vines which are said to fifteenth century. Funchal, the century. Funchal, in about about the the fifteenth from from Cyprus Cyprus in the storehouse storehouse of these wines. capital of the island, is the It is drunk as wine. It as exhilarating wine. Madeira is aa tonic and an exhilarating great deal in is used in cooking. an an apéritif ap6ritif before meals and is used aa great pie served pie. CROÛTE .lu MADÈRE rvrl,oinn -- Fruit pie with Madeira pie. cno0rn AU served with Madeira apricot sauce flavoured with Madeira. Lu MADÈRE demi-glace sauce Madeira sauce. sauce. SAUCE sAUcE AU Meoins -- A A demi-glace Madeira (See SA SAUCE.) boiled down with Madeira. (See UCE.) nu MADÈRE in soRBETs AU M,qoiRE -- Sherbets served served in Madeira sherbets. SORBETS just before Madeira poured over over them just with Madeira sherbet sherbet glasses with serving.

MÂCON VIACON WINE. VIN vrN DE MÂCON MAcon is weil well ruAcoN -- The name of Mâcon grapes from the known, the grapes known, thanks to the excellent wines made from to the grown around this town dipartement. in the the Saône-et-Loire town in Sa6ne-et-Loire département. The tends along the opes which which run The Côte C6te mâconnaise mdconnaise ex extends the si slopes almost parallel to right bank bank of of the Sa6ne between almost parallel to the the right the Saône Tournus and Rhdne département. dipartement. and the the boundary boundary of the the Rhône (known as Mâconnais as Mâcon Mdcon wines) are full bodied Mdconnais wines (known aroma. and very smooth, with aa delicate delicate and distinctive distinctive aroma. Tbe are PouillyPouillvMdcon wines The most famous of the white white Mâcon wines are

and of flour, butter, eggs and MADELEII\E - A small MADELEINE-A small cake made offlour, sugar. pastry-making says the of pastry-making says that the A chronicler chronicler of the the history of madeleine when when he Avice, invented the great pastry-cook, Avice, the madeleine of using Talleyrand. 'He had the idea of was working for Prince Talleyrand. (q.v.) or (q.v.) mixture mixture for quate-quarrs (q.v.) for little little cakes cakes tôt-fait tlt-fail (q.v.) or quatre-quarts mould. M. M. Boucher and and Carême Car6me approved approved baked in an an aspic aspic mould. 570 570

MAIGRE MAIGRE The term maddrist madérisé in in modern French also also applies applies to to the unpleasant bottle bottle smell smell of of aa wine kept for for too long long aa period. period. soup MADRILENE MADRILÈNE (A (À LA) LA) - Name Name given given to to a a clear clear soup (generally with (generally served served cold cold or or chilled) chilled) which which is is flavoured ftavoured with tomato other dishes, tomato juice. juice. The The name name is is also also applied applied to to other

flavoured ftavoured with tomato tomato juice. juice.

MAGISTDRBS MAGISTÈRES - Name Name given to a a number number of of nourishing nourishing

of la soups invented by Brillat-Savarin, author author of la Physiologie du go,frt. goût.

Madeleines old-fashioned moulds Madeleines made made in old-fashioned moulds

'The first of the magistires', magistères', says Brillat-Savarin, Brillat-Savarin, 'is 'is made made as follows:

idea. He gave the name of madeleines madeleines to these cakes.' cakes.' the idea. (Lacam, Mdmorial la pdtisserie.) Mémorial de la pâtisserie.) Other authorities, authorities, however, hold hold that that far far from from having Other been invented invented by by Avice, these these little little cakes cakes were known in been They believe France long before his his time. time. They believe that that they they were France made at at Commercy, Commercy, and and were were brought into into fashion first made first Stanislas Versailles and then, in Paris, by Stanislas about 1730, first at Versailles Leczinski, father-in-law father-in-Iaw of Louis XV, who was very partial them. to them. The for madeleines madeleines remained a a secret for for aa very recipe for The recipe very large large sum to the long time. It is said that it was sold for a very pastry-makers who made pastry-makers of of Commercy, made of of this this great Commercy, who gastronomic specialities of their finest gastronomic delicacy one the finest one of the town.

Chop 'Take 6large handful of of parsley. 6 large onions, 3 carrots, a handful parsley. Chop

pot to and put all ail these these ingredients and put them them in in a a pot to warm warm and

brown brown with a piece of good fresh butter. just right, (6 oz.) g. (6 in 175 175 g. 'When the throw in the mixture is is just right, throw of grains pounded amber, with with aa slice slice of 20 grains sugar, 20 candied sugar, pounded amber, 45 minutes and and add Boil for for 45 water. Boil toast and 3 bottles toast and bottles of water. lost through through amount lost small fresh water to fresh water to make make up up the the sm ail amount liquid remain. full of liquid evaporation, so so that 3 bottles full evaporation, all, in in a mortar with with and ail, flesh, bones and an old fowl, ftesh, 'Pound an (2 lb.) carefully g. (2 carefully chosen beef. an iron pestle. Chop 900 g. and adding salt salt and 'When this is mix the the two two meats, is done mix 'When meats, adding flame, so so pepper. Put the mixture in aa saucepan over aa high Bame, pepper. and from from time right through, time to through, and heat penetrates that the that the heat penetra tes right mixture is is weil well so that that the the mixture little fresh fresh butter add aa little time add time butter so pan. sticking to the pan. browned without sticking strain the soup which is 'When the stock begins to brown, strain little the little by by little With this, first saucepan. With this, moisten little in the the first in in, it is is ail all mixed in, mixture in the second saucepan, and, when it mixture liquid ripples 45 minutes so that the surface of the liquid boil it for 45 from time be taken taken to to add hot water from throughout. Care must be throughout. result The result level remains remains constant. The that the the liquid level so that to time so long as as long as the is certain as effect is whose beneficial beneficial effect is aa potion whose is able to digest may be, is still to digest be, is still able he may invalid, however however exhausted he food.' how the magistdre the magistère goes on on to explain how to explain Brillat-Savarin goes BrilIat-Savarin given to invalid. the invalid. be given to the should be given aa cup hours cup every every 33 hours 'On the be given he should first day day he should be the first 'On days, aa following days, on the the following he settles down for the the night; on until he settles down until in the amount in and the the same same amount only and large cup morning only cup in in the the morning large The invalid invalid should should be are used up. The evening, until the 3 bottles are of legs of as legs nourishing diet, diet, such such as light though kept on on aa light though nourishing kept jam. and jam. fish, sweet sweet fruit and poultry, fish, be able able to invalid should should be fourth day day the the invalid 'Towards the the fourth 'Towards normal life. return to to normal retum 'is intended points out, intended 'This magistère,' out, 'is Brillat-Savarin points magistire,' Brillat-Savarin 'This people who and for for people who dynamic characters characters and and dynamic for robust robust and for energies.' up their their energies.' generally wear out by by burning up wear themselves out generally made from from shin of shin of another magistère magistire made The mas master suggests another The ter suggests 'the weak for 'the weak and and the the pigeons and intended for and crayfish, veal, pigeons crayfish, intended veal, infirm'. infirm'.

Commercy Commercy madeleines madeleines

Commercy Commercy madeleine. MADELEINE MADELETNE DE DE COMMERCY coMMERcv -- Work (1 lb. g. (1 together in lb. 66 oz., fine sugar, in aa bowl bowl 625 625 g. oz., 55 cups) cups) fine sugar, (l lb. g. (1 lb.66 oz., flour, 12 l2 eggs, l| teaspoons 5t cups) sieved 625 625 g. o2.,Slcups) sieved ftour, eggs, 1t grated rind pinch of bicarbonate of soda, rind of aa lemon, aa pinch of soda, the the grated salt. (ll oz., g. (Il very smooth, When this mixture is When is very smooth, add to to itit 300 g. Mix weIl. cups) melted melted butter. well. Put Put in in buttered madeleine 11$ t cups) butter. Mix moulds. Bake in very slow slow oyen. oven. in aa very Plain madeleines. MADELETNES ORDINAIRES Ingredients. Plain madeleines. MADELEINES oRDTNAIRES -- Ingredients. (9 oz., (9 oz., g. (9 g. (9 250 2* cups) 250 g. fine sugar, 250 g_ oz,2f cups) sieved o2.,22 cups) cups) fine sugar, 250 sieved (9 oz., g. (9 generous cup) flour, 250 melted butter, eggs, aa ftour, 250 g. oz., generous cup) melted butter, 44 eggs, pinch of flavouring. of salt, salt, vanilla vanilla or or other other ftavouring. and ftavouring flour, eggs, flavouring into Method. Method. Put eggs, salt salt and into Put the the sugar, sugar, ftour, mixture isis smooth. aa bowl. bowl. Work Work with with aa spatula spatula until until the the mixture smooth. Add Add the melted butter. the melted required number number of of madeleine Butter Butter and and Bour flour the the required mixture. The moulds should moulds. moulds. Spoon The moulds should be be twotwoSpoon in in the the mixture. (375'F., Gas thirds 190'C. (375°F., Mark 5) 5) for for 15 l5 to 20 full. Bake Bake at at 190°C. Gas Mark to 20 thirds full. minutes. minutes.

DAYS. BYGONE DA OF BYGONE RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS MAGNY -- See MAGNY YS. prc -- Corn France, sometimes sometimes eaten eaten bird in in France, MAGPIE. PIE Common MAGPIE. mon bird mainly for for very dry and isis used used mainly The ftesh flesh is is very dry and in the country. The the country_ in and more more edi edible. are more more tender tender and Young magpies magpies are stock. Young stock. ble_

given in milk soured Balkans to soured by by in the to milk MAIA -- Name Name given the Balkans MAlA preparaleaven in previous fermentation as aa leaven in the the preparaand used used as fermentation and previous ofyoghourt. tion of tion yoghourt. prescribed by foods prescribed by the the describing foods word describing French word MAIGRE -- French MAIGRE and days days of of abstinence. abstinence. during Lent Lent and for consumption consumption during Church for Church pervegetable origin origin were were peronly foods foods of of vegetable In the early days, days, only the early ln and eggs; eggs; gradually authorised butter butter and Church authorised mitted, but but grad the Church ually the mitted, as fish; fish; then creatures su such then flesh of of cold-blooded cold-blooded creatures then the the ftesh then ch as

acquire MADERISED. MADERISED. MADÉRISÉ wines acquire white wines trrnr6nls6 -- Certain Certain white maderwith id to Madeira. These These are are sa to be be maderwith age age aa ftavour flavour of of Madeira. said ised. ised. 57r 571

MAILLOT (considered ta certain waterfowl waterfowl (considered to be be cold-blooded, cold-blooded, too) too) such such certain as the pintail, the duck, the the shoveller shoveller duck, the pintail, the scotcr, scoter, the waterhen, the waterhen, as coot, the the coot, the teal, teal, the water-rail, the the water-rail. curlew, the the curlew. heron, the the heron, the the godwit, the the sandpiper sandpiper and and the the wheatear. wheatear. godwit,

the office office of of maître maitre d'hôlel d'h6tel was was always always held persons of held by by persons of the the the highest rank, rank, sometimes sometimes princes of royal. Although of the Although the blood royal. at that lime time the the office office was was aa sinecure. sinecure, the maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel was, the maître was, at least nominally, at least nominally, in in charge charge of of all all departments departments of of the royal the royal al household, including including the the kitchens and and cellars, cellars, and and ail all the household. the functionaries and and servants. servants. functionaries The martre maitre d'hôtel d'h6tel of of aa modem modern restaurant great restaurant or or aa great The private establishment establishment today, today, must must have have aa very very extensive extensive private range of of technical knowledge. He qualities of technical knowledge. He must must have have qualities range of which will will enable him to his staff to command his leadership which with staffwith authority and and courtesy. courtesy. He He must must he first-class adminibe aa first-class administrator and aa tactful diplomat. diplomat. strator He must must be thoroughly familiar with details details of of the the special special He work of of the the dining-room, kitchens and and cel/ars. cellars. He He must must be work able to talk talk 10 politely but to the clients -- in several several languages -- polilely able but not obsequiously. He He must must he be able able to his clienls, to advise his clients, 10 not to guide them in in their choice of of dishes, the go with their choice the wines wines to to go them and the fruit fruit to follow. qualities which are the the qualities which the the modern maître mattre d'hôlel d'h6tel These are must possess. If he is grand seigneur, as is no longer aa grand as were the must the in the this office in the great royal important personages who filled lhis households, he is is usually aa man of distinction, good good educahouseholds, particularly, aa master and, particularly, master of of his his an, art, for for service at at the tion and, the an arl as cooking. art as cooking. table is îs as much an

MAILLOT -- See See GARNrSHES. GARNISHES. MAILLOT MAINE - See See ORLÉANAIS. ORLEANAIS. MAll't'E-

(A LA) MNNTENON (À LA) -- See MIXTURES, Maintenon See MIXTURES, Maintenon MAINTENON mixture, mixture. MAIRE -_ See RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DA DAYS. MAIRE YS. MAISON -* The The term maison is is often often abused abused in in restaurants. restaurants. term maison MA1SON (or sorne All too too often often one one reads: reads: sole sole (or other fish) some olher fish) maison, maison. Ail chicken maison, maison. etc. etc. chicken The epithet epithet maison, maison, in in its its origin and in the minds of The restaurateurs who honestly, indicates (hat who use use it it honestly, dish in that the the dish in restaurateurs question has has been made by been made by the restaurateur himself or the restaurateur or his question following aa recipe which he can staff, following can daim claim a<; as his own. own. stafT, Nevertheless, the lack precision. Il the term term docs does lack It would would be Nevertheless, more satisfactory (0 de notre maison or àd la manière to say say de manidre de de more notre maison, as itit stands is maison, since since maison as is vague enough enough for for nOire restaurateurs to unscrupulous restaurateurs to offer offer as as aa Tarte Tarte maison, maison, for for unscrupulous instance, a pastry which which cornes comes from fromaa maison other than lheir their own, from a wh.ol(:sale wholesale confectioner, in fact! fact ! There would be no great harm in this, were it it not that more abuses may may arise [rom from it, it, when, when, for for instance instance maison serious abuses is applied ta product whose whose name name împlies place of to aa product implies its its place of îs applied (a liqueur origin. Fine maisoll, i.e. Fine Champagne Champagne (a liqueur brandy) maison, i.e. origin. would he be suspect, because, because, by law, the desÎgnations designations'Cognac' 'Cognac' 'Fine Champagne' are and 'Fine pain are reserved exclusively, under pain and of prosecution penalties, for for brandies made severe penalties, made in in of prosecution and severe Cognac or or within within the official official boundaries of of the the Fine ChamCognac pagle region. Thus, Thus, the the expression fine maison maison is is aa purely fanciful one. lt It suggests to the consumer aa Fine Champagne Champagne which the maison maison has imported for ilS its oWn own exclusive exclusive use which the imported for Use from fact il it merely enables from the Fine Fine Champagne region. In ln fact the sell, without of prosecution, the restaurateur restaurateur to to sell, without risk risk of prosecution, adulterated from spirits which come from terated brandy, brandy, made made from which might might come from

MAITRE D'HÔTEL D'HOTEL BUTTER. BUTTER. BEURRE spunRE Â LA r,c, MAÎTRE r,rAiTRE MAîTRE D'HOIEL - A seasoned grilled meat seasoned butter butter served with grilled meat or served wÎth D'HÔTEL

A

- A

fried fish and other other dishes. Il It isis prepared by creaming fish, frîed nsh and juice, salt fresh butter with chopped parsley, lemon lemon juice, and salt and fresh butter with pepper. (See BUTTER, Compound butters.) pepper.

N{AIZE-- See See CORN. MAIZE MALAGA - A A sweet wine made În in Andalucia, enjoys Andalucia, which enjoys aa great reputation and is used in cooking and confectionery. There is white Malaga, Malaga, which which is is aa golden colour, and red Malaga. MALAXER MALAXER - French word ward meaning meaning to knead knead a substance in order to la soften it. il.

MALIC ACID. ACro.

anywhere. anywhere.

MALIeUE MALIQUE - An organic acid present in most

fruit some vegetables. fruit and sorne vegetables.

MAISON MAISON DOREE DORÉE _ - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

MALLOW. MALLOW.

MAUVE MAUVE - Plant whose whose leaves, which which contain a viscous substance, are used as an emollient viscous substance, emollient in poultices and infusions. infusions. The The flowers fiowers are soothing soothing to chest troubles. The The leaves lcaves can be eaten in salad or as a vegetable, vegetable, like spinach.

MAISON old MAISON DU DU ROI ROI (Royd (RoyaI Household) -- Under Under the the old French French monarchy, monarchy, this this was the the name given given to to all aIl the the departments partments and and personnel of of the the court. court. Chief Chief among these these was of was the bouche bouche dt roi roi (royal (royal kitchens), which was was made up of

MALMSEY MALMSEY (MALVOISE) (MALVOISiE) Wil\E. WINE. vrN VIN DE DE MALvorsrE MALVOISΠ-

a a very very large large number number of of officials. officiais.

This famous wine made made in Madeira, Madeira, Cyprus and the Canary Canary Islands Islands is named named after a vine originating in the Ihe Greek Greek island, Malavosia. The transplanted transplanted vine yields a a slightly musky wine, sometimes somettmes a little liule bitter, and heavy and, occasionally, perfectly perfectly dry. It It is is very very similar similar to 10 Frontignac, and and is is drunk drunk as as an ap6ritif. It is also used used a great deal in cooking cooking in the the preparation of of sweets, sweets, and and to to flavour certain sauces, sauces, instead of Madeira Madeira and other other heavy heavy wines. wines.

MAITRAI\K MAITRANX - Drink Drink very very popular popular in Germany. Germany. The name name is and trank is made made up up of of the the words words mai mai (May) (May) and Irank (drink), (drink),

indicating indicating that it it is is made made in in the spring. It Il is is prepared from from young, young, fragrant, fragrant, asperula asperula shoots. shoots. This plant plant is is also known known as as woodruff. woodruff. Put Put some sorne young young asperula asperula shoots in in a a large soup tureen. tureen. Moisten Moisten with with aa bottle boule of of white white Rhine wine and 2 to ta 4 tablerablespoons of of brandy. brandy. Cover Cover the tureen and leave Icave to infuse for for 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., *..rp) t cup) sugar dissolved in in a little water. Mix. Mix. Iittle water. This Tbis drink drink can can also also be made made with with white white Alsace wine wine or white white Graves. Graves.

MALT MALT - Barley prepared prepared for brewing brewing by steeping, Sleeping, germinagermination or or kiln kiln drying. (See (See BEER.) BEER.) Malt extract. extra ct. ExrRArr EXTRAIT DE DE MALT MALT -- A concentrated infusion infusion of of germinated germinated barley barley which which is is made made into into syrups or or crystals. ItIl isis used used as as aa food, especially especially to to moisten moisten porridges porridges for very very

MAITRE MAîTRE D'HOTEL D'HÔTEL - Nowadays, Nowadays, the the title tille of of mattre maÎtre d'h6tel d'hôtel is is reserved reserved for for the man man in in charge of of the dining-room djning-room in in a hotel or restaurant. restaurant. He He is is assisted by by a a team team of of senior, senior. hotel or junior junjor and and assistant assistant waiters. waÏters.

young young babies, babies, because because of of its enzyme enzyme content. content.

MANCIIE MANCHE -- In ln French French cookery, cookery, the the projecting projecting bone bone of of a cutlet cutlet is is called aa manche.

Formerly FonnerJy this this title title was was used also also of of aa hotel hotel proprietor, proprietor, but but only only in in the the provinces. provinces. Previously Previously in in royal, royal, princely, princely, and and other other noble noble households, households,

MANCHETTE MANCHETTE - A A paper paper frill frill for the the projecting projecting bones bones of cutlets cutlets or or joints. joints. (See (See PAPILLOTE.) PAPILLOTE.)

572 572

MARCHE AND LIMOUSIN LIMOUSIN

MANCHONMANCHON This is a name for: and baked l. A of flaky made of 1. A small flaky pastry pastry and baked in in a small cake cake made

MARASQUIN -- Liqueur Liqueur made made chiefly chiefly in MARASCHINO. MAnc,seuIN is aa type of black Its main type of Zara, in Dalmatia. ILs main ingredient ingredient is Zara, in cherry called marasca marasca in ltaly. Italy. The cherries cherries are pounded and the stones crushed (which is is added and the mixture mixture is not the case with kirsch). Honey is left 10 to ferment. Il It is then distilled distilled and sugar is added.

mould in in the shape of a muff. rolled out 2. A A petit four made of almond paste out rather 2. four made paste rolled ralher of almond on a [hin, baked baked for a a few seconds in rolled on in the oven, oven, then rolled thin, little muff. wooden handle to make aa kind of !ittle are cold filled witl! with butter When these manchons are When cold they are filled cream cream flavoured with praline (q.v.). Each end of the biscuit is then then dipped into very finely shredded shredded green almonds.

MARBLED. MARBLED. pnnsrt,I-i PERSilLÉ -- Meat is said to be marbled when wben it is flecked fat. This marbling only occurs flecked with tiny particles of fat. in meat of the finest finest quality. In also applied ln French French the the term tenn persilli persillé is is also applied to to various

pea or bean of which which the pod pod is or bean Sugar pea MANGE-TOUT -- Sugar eaten as well weil as as the seeds. They are cooked in the same way as French beans (see BEANS, Frenchbeans)' French beans).

green-veined cheeses. green-veined

and vegetables after MARC -- The residue residue of various fruits and MARC an abbreviation pressing. pressing. The ward is as an abbreviation for The word is often often used used as distilled from the marc of grapes. eau-de-vie de marc, a spirit distilled Il mean the It can also mean the residue of substances like tea or coffee extracted by from which which Ihe has been been extracted by boiling or from the goodness has steeping.

MANGO. MANGUE MANGO. MANcuE -- The mango tree, of which the mango is cultivated in the East East Indian origin. It Il is is cultivated is of East the fruit, is of Mauritius island of Indics, Cayenne, the island China, the Indies, Cayenne, Malaya, China, and in soulhem li .S.A. California in U.S.A. southern Florida and CaIifornia The mango is an an oblong fruit about the size of aa big pear, green in colom, colour, turning orange-yellow when ripe with a rosy The flesh orangesun. The on Ihe blush on to the sun. flesh is is orange· blush the side side exposed to yellow in in colour, carrot. It is is pleasant pleasant in colour, similar to that of aa carrot. all tastes. flavour but a little little acrid and does not appeal to ail tasles. flavour also be made can also Besides being caten made into eaten raw, mangoes can jam preparation of Indian chutney, a of lndian jam and in the tbe preparation and are are used used in pickle with a great reputation, condiment. used as aa condiment. reputation, used

MARCI{E LIMOUSIN-- Geographically Geographically and historiMARCHE AI{D AND LIMOUSIN hislo[ically cally these two ancient French provinces are different different from Gastronomically, however, each other. Gastronomically, however, they can be regarded as one, one, for not only are they neighbours but share the as but they sbare culinary specialities. specialities. same produce and the same culinary The province divided inlO into the the dédiThe province of of Limousin is is now now divided partements and Haute-Vienne. partements of of Corrbze Corrèze and Haute-Vienne. The The famous hare à d la royale royale was created in this province. hare gras and POlled foie foie gral pâlés de de foie foie gres gras are made in Brive. and pdtis arc made Potted as its cuisine, is famous. Limoges china, as well weIl as In found foodstuffs In these two ancient provinces are to be found and of the highest of every kind and highest quality. are famous, as are are its The cattle of Limousin are famous, as ilS pigs, pigs, from Ground and winged which excellent excellent pork products are made. Ground game abound in in the Marche and Limousin FreshLimousin provinces. Freshand others) fill the rivers, lakes water fish fish (carp, perch, perch, pike and and ponds of the region. The trout of Vienne, Maulde and and YlzEre are very delicate in flavour. Vézère are flavour. Crayfish abound in in the waterways. Notable, Notable, too, are the salmon of Vézère. of V6zdre. gardens produce The market excellent vegetables, The market gardens produce excellent vegetables, and offruit chestnuts. there is an abundance of fruit and chestnuts. there all kinds of tbe woods of fungi are woods and fields of this region, ail In the cipes and morels. 10 morels. to be found, in particular cèpes and Limousin are made made in the Marche Marche and Excellent cheeses are provinces. Corrdze produce The slopes of Argentat and Queyssac in Corrèze pleasant pleasant wines. wines of The rose ros6 wines of Chabanais, Chabanais, Etagnat, wines. The Saint-Brice, Verneuil and Aise, in the Vienne Valley, have a high reputation. reputation. d'avoine (oat Culinary Soupe bouillie bouillie d'avoine Culinary specialities specialities -- Soupe (rye-bread soup); soupe aux porridge); porridge); soupe au seigle (rye-bread au pain de seigle (cabbage soup); choux soupe Brdjauda Bréjauda (a (a soup made from choux (cabbage soup made soup); soupe and bacon. With Ihis cabbage and people of Limousin this soup the people make balf aa glass glass of red red wine wine to to the last lasl make chahrol; chabrol; they add half they add few spoonfuls of soup left in the plate). (balls made from buckwheat flour mixed with Farcidures (balls Farcidures leaves. These sorre! beetroot and and beetroot and wrapped in in cabbage !eaves. sorrel and and cooked cooked in cabbage soup). are made small in cabbage are ~ometimes sometimes made small and la Corrèze; crayfish Troul fish de la Trout àd la meunière; matelotes of fish Corrize; crayfish meuniire; maleloles (meat pdtis, court-bouillon; broccana (meat sausage in court-bouillon; pâtés, made from sa usage (this dish, veal\: hare meat and or Chabessal (this meat and veal); hare au au Cahessal Cabessal or culinary speciality of the region, is known which is the great culinary as hare à d la la royale). Cèpes Cipes stuffed stuffed liri /a among connoisseurs connoisseurs as la corrézienne; farcidure offried pOlalOes; chou farci (stuffed of fried potatoes; corrdzienne; farcidure cabbage). cabbage). clafoutis; and desserts desserts are are Limousrn the sweets Limousin clafoulis; Among the sweets and (buckwheat tourtons (buckwbeat flognarde; fruit fmit tan; cheese pdtd; pâlé; lourlon, tart; cheese flognarde; (biscuits) galettes); croquanls (biscui galelles); the macaroo!t\" Dorat;; tbe ts) of macarooras of Dorat the croquants Bort-les-Orgues; Bort-les-Orgues; the lizerches. the meringues of Uzerches.

India MANGOSTEEN. unNcousrAN MANC,oUSTAN -- This in lndia This tree tree grows in MANGOSTEEN. confused with the and 10 be confused and the Spice Islands. Its fruit (not to mango) is about the size size of an orange, with aa delicious raspjams and It is eaten raw, used berry-flavoured pulp. pulp. Il used to make jams berry-flavoured ofdesserts. other preserves and as an ingredient ingredient of desserts. CHEESE. MANICAMP -- See CHEESE. MAI{ICAMP

'muddy' yields aa 'muddy' It yields MANICLE Vine grown grown in in Bugey. Bugey. Il MANICLE -- Vine that this vine was planted (épais) (ipais) wine. Brillat-Savarin says says that by the Romans.

MANIER -- French culinary term for working a mixture by applied to hand. It Il is is particularly particularly applied to thoroughly thoroughly mixing mixing a hand. or other other fat' quantity of flour flour with faL This mixture is with butter or and is and stews, gravies and stews, and used 10 rapidly thicken thicken sauces, sauces, gravies to rapidly used called kneaded kneaded butter. butter.

popular in Paris. MANQUÉ MANQLJE -- A cake very popular given under SPONGE SPONGE CAKE. One manqui is is given recipe for manqué One recipe g. (13 oz., oz, g. (9 oz., Ingredients. 250 g. 2* cups) sifted flour, 375 g. oz.,2f Ingredients.250 g. (4 oz., 1 2 cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 125 g. I cup) butter, 9 eggs, a small pinch pin ch of salt, vanilla. salt, vanilla. yolks with with the sugar, vanilla and Melhod. Work Work the egg yolks Method. light and is light salt in in aa mixing bowl. and fluffy, bowl. When the mixture is stiffiy add butter, flour, then, then, stirring gently, the stiffly add the melted butter, beaten whites of egg. FiII a brioche mould with this mixture. mixture. egg. Fill praline (q.v.) and decarate Bake in a slow oven. Sprinkle witbpraline decorate Sprinklewith the top with a piece of crystallised fruit.

MANZANILLA WINE WINE -- Kind of of sherry. A SUCRE MAPLE. ÉRABLE ERlsrs À sucnr -- A true native of South America,

and cultivated and li niled States and cultivated in the United and Canada. Canada. The trunk abundant sap which the spring, yields of this tree, trce, tapped yiclds abundanl tapped in the can be fermented fermenled or made into vinegar, but which is usually eaten in form of of syrup (maple syrup) or or sugar ealen in the tbe form sugar (maple sugar). A maple tree can yield, 24 hours, as much as as 30 tree can yield, in in 24 hours, as 30 kg. (66 lb.) sap containing (4+ lb.) sugar. kg. (41 containing 2 kg. Several varieties of maple yield sugar.

MARAICHDnE MARAîcHÈRE (A LA) -- Method of preparation preparation applied especially to meat. The main especially to large roast or braised braised cuts of meat. mam stuffed cucum· cucumingredients are carrots, small onions, braised stuffed bers, salsify, salsify, artichokes, Châleaupotatoes POTATOES). Chdteau potatoes (see POTATOES). 573 573

MARECHALE (A LA)

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Gastronomic Gastronomie map mep of oC Marche Marche and Limousin Limousin

vf,AnnCffAl,n MARÉCHALE (A (À f,a) LA) --- Method Method of of preparing preparing escalopes, wings wings and and breasts bn::asL~ of of poultry poultry and and other small cuts, CUIS, dipping them them in in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and frying frying them them in in butter. butter. These These small cuts cuts are are usually usually garnished garnished with green green asparagus asparagus tips ti ps and and trufles. trumes.

master mas ter chef chef at once sent sent men men of of the the quartennaster's quartermaster's staffand staff and ordnance corps in in search seareh of provisions. provisions. All Ali they could find were 3 eggs,44 tomatoes, tomatoes, 66 crayfish, a small hen, aa little Iittle garlic, some sorne oil and a saucepan. Using his bread bread ration, ration, Dunand first first made made a panade panade with oil ail and water, water, and (lnd then, then, having having drawn and and jointed jointed the the chicken, browned browned itit in oil, and fried Il-ied the the eggs eggs in the the same sa me oil with with a few few cloves cloyes of of garlic and the the tomatoes. tomatoes. He He poured poured over this this mixture mixture some sorne water laced laced

MAREE MAREE -- French French collective collective name name for for all al) the the seawater seawater fish, fish, shellfish shellfish and and seafood seafood sold sold in aa fish fish market. market. Paris Paris had had aa regular œgular daily daily supply of of fresh fresh fish fisb as as early early as as the the sixteenth sixteenth century, cent ury, thanks rhanks to ta the sturdy swrdy fish fish cart cart ponies which which raced raced to to and and fro fro between berween the the Channel ports ports and the the capital. capital.

with with brandy brandy borrowed horrowed from from the the General's General's flask ftask and and put put the the crayfish crayfish on on top top to to cook cook in an the the steam. steam. The The dish dish was was served served on on aa tin tin plate, plate, the the chicken surrounded surrounded by the the fried fried eggs and and crayfish, crayfish, with with the the sauce sauce poured poured over over it. il. Bonaparte, having feasted feasled upon upon it, il, said said to ta Dunand: Dunand: 'You 'You must must feed me me like like this after after every every battle.' battle.' The The originality originality of of this this improvised improvîsed dish dish lay Jay in in the the garnish, garnish, for for chicken chicken dà Ia la Provengale, Provençale, sautled sautéed in in oil with with garlic garlic and and tomatoes, tomatoes, was was known known in in Paris Paris under under the the Directory Directory (1796(17961799). 1799). Dunand Dunand was was well weI! aware aware that [hat the the crayfish crayfish were were out out of of place place in in this this dish, dish, and and so so he he later later substituted substituled wine wine for for the the

MARENGO MARENGO -- Name Name of of the the battle battle in în which which Napoleon Napoleon Bonaparte defeated defeated the the Austrians Austrians on 00 14 14 June June 1800. \800. This This battle has given its its name naroe to [û a a chicken dish dÎsh which which was wa<; cooked cooked on on the the battlefield itself itself by by Dunand, Dunand, chef chef to ta Napoleon. Napoleon. Bonaparte, Bonaparte, who who on on battle battle days days ate ale nothing nothing until until the the fight fight was was over, over, had had gone gone forward forward with with his his general general staff staff and and was was aa long long way way from from his his supply supply wagons. wagons. Seeing Seeiog his his enemies enemies put put to to flight, Right, he he asked asked Dunand Dunand to 10 prepare prepare dinner for for him. him. The The 574 574

MARMALADES MARMALADES and Season the meat with salt and pepper. Put it in aa bowl and Season cover with the marinade, which must be quite cold. Keep in aa coyer cool place. for mutton, called called'en cheweuil'. MARICooked marinade marinade for Cooked 'en chevreuil'. as indicated above, adding adding NADE EN EN CHEVREUIL Proceed as indicated above, cHEVREUIL -- Proceed NADE juniper and and rosemary. rosemary. juniper vIN ROUGE Roucr -for meat. meat. MARINADE MARINADE AU AU VIN Red wine wire marinade marinade for Red red wine instead instead of of white using red Proceed as indicated above, using wine. Leave to steep for 2 hours.

water and and added added mushrooms. But But one one day, day, when when he he had served said served the the dish dish improved improved in in this this way, way, Bonaparte Bonaparte sa id angrily: 'You 'Y ou have left out the crayfish. It will bring me bad luck. I1 don't want any of of it.' and it it Willy-nilly, the crayfish garnish had had to be restored, and

garnish for for the has has remained to to this this day day the the traditional traditional garnish dish. dish.

and also also VEAL, detailed recipes recipes see CHICKEN, and see CHICKEN, For detailed sauté marengo. Veal sautd

Charente-Maritime MARENNES -- Small port in in the the Charente-Maritime MARENNES Small port and fine white and district where, in vast beds at La La Tremblade, fine

cRUEs UNCOOKED MARINADES. MARINADES CRUES(for meat game). MARINADES meat and MARINADES and game). marinade 1I (for Uncooked marinade Uncooked por.JR VIANDES vrANDEs DE DE BOUCHERIE BoUcHERIE ET ET VENAISON VENAISoN -- Chop cRUEs POUR Chop 1I CRUES large onion, onion, 22 shallots, shallots, 22 sticks sticks carrot, 1I large medium-sized carrot, garlic. Put half these in aa and 2 2 clove of of garlic. Put half these vegetables in celery and celery meat. dish, which must be be large enough enough to to contain contain the the meat. deep dish, parsley, aa few few shreds and shreds of of thyme Add aa sprig of chopped chopped parsley, thyme and Add peppercorns and aa clove. bay leaf, 6 to 8 peppercorns put itit in pepper and and put in the and pepper meat with with salt the Season the the meat salt and Season dl. of the vegetables. Moisten Moisten with with 66 dl. dish. Coyer Cover with the rest of dish. (scant I pint, (l pint, pint, pint, 2| cups) dry white white wine wine and and 2f dl. dl. (scant cups) dry (l place. Tum meat over over Keep in Turn the oil. Keep in aa cool place. the meat generous cup) cup) oil. with the frequently so thoroughly impregnated with the frequently so that that itit isis thoroughly flavour of the flavour the herbs. for venison, venison, 66 coriander coriander is to to be used used for When this marinade is juniper berries should be added. added. seeds and 66 crushed juniper should be seeds and (for large large cuts meat). MARINADE MARINADE II (for cuts of of meat). Uncooked Uncooked marinade II VIANDES DE DE BOUCHERIE BOUCHERIE -_ Season SCASON the CUt CRUE POUR GROSSES GROSSES VIANDES thc cut CRUE POUR (haunch, rib, pepper and and spices. rib, shoulder, etc.) with with salt, spices. (haunch, shoulder, etc.) salt, pepper and carrot. carrot. Add Add Put it in aa bowl. Coyer ion and with aa chopped chopped on onion Cover with garlic cl parsley and of parsley and thyme, 22 crushed oves, aa sprig thyme, aa sprig of crushed garlic cloves, quarter of with cooking cooking leaf and and aa clove. Moisten with quarter bay leaf clove. Moisten of aa bay (dry white few drops drops of of wine or red red wine). wine). Add Add aa few wine (dry wine or white wine plate, face face downwards, and leave leave to brandy. downwards, and to brandy. Coyer Cover with with aa plate, (or longer, longer, in steep place for for 66 hours hours (or in cool cool weather). weather). in aa cool cool place steep in Tum from time meat over over from Turn the meat time to to time time so so that that itit isis thoroughly thoroughly impregnated with marinade. with the the marinade. The with this marinade when when braised. braised. The meat meat is is moistened moistened with this marinade (for small portions of small individuaJ individual portions of Uncooked marinade III Itr (for Uncooked marinade pouR MENUES poultry, fish, MENUES rrr.tnntADE CRUE cRUE POUR meal, meat poultry, fislq etc.). etc.). MARINADE pdcns DE polssoNs, ETC. ETC. -- Season Season the the PIÈCES voLArLLEs POISSONS, DE BOUCHERIE, BoucHERrE, VOLAILLES pepper before putting itit poultry or and pepper before putting meat, or fish meat, poultry fish with with salt salt and pieces in dish. Sprinkle with in Lay the in aa deep deep dish. Sprinkle with marinade. Lay the pieces in the the marinade. parsley, chopped parsley, finely ions or coarsely chopped or shallots, finely chopped onions shallots, coarsely chopped on garlic if shreds leaf, and and garlic if desired. desired. Pour Pour oil oil and bay bay leaf, of thyme shreds of thyme and juice over and mixture. lemon juice over this this mixture. and aa squeeze of lemon squeeze of Leave frequently. for 22 hours, hours, tuming turning frequently. Leave to steep for to steep (for garnishes garnishes to with Uncooked to be be served served witb marinade IV IV (for Uncooked marinade PouR galantine, etc.). pâtés, pites, potted potted meats, etc.). MARINADE umrNADE CRUE cRUE POUR meatsb galantines, pAr6s, TERRINES, ÉLÉMENTS GALANTINES, nns PÂTÉS, TERRINES, GALANTINES, DE GARNITURE GARNITURE DES frfrrlnNrs DE pepper and garnish indicated and ETC. with salt, indicated with salt, pepper ETc. -- Season Season the the gamish spices. Leave to in and oil. oil. Leave to steep steep in Pour on on white white wine, wine, brandy brandy and spices. Pour this for 22 hours. hours. marinade for this marinade

oysters are bred. green oysters Marennes. There is a confrérie There called the Galants de la Verte Marennes. confririe called

plant of of the the fields, -- Cornmon Common plant especially in damp places, which is hard stemmed and rich in especially silica. In their first week of growth the young shoots, not yet

PRÊLE MARES-TAILS. pnf;I-n

silicious, are edible and be used like asparagus. asparagus. The are edible used like and can can be silicious, is mainand the habit habit of eating them is Romans valued them and regions. They are also pickled in vinegar. tained in certain regions.

2t

soluble made from the the most soluble fat made MARGARINE -- Cooking fat

of beef and veal fat, parts ofbeefand fat, purified by heating and decanting, groundnuts, and chumed Vegetable oil, oil, groundnuts, little cream. cream. Vegetable and churned with aa !iUle sesame or coconut is added. This type of margarine is for pastryis intended especially especially for This type making. type called is used which is used in table margarine which making. The The type called table household cooking cooking is made entirely from vegetable fat. MARGUÉRY RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE See RESTAURANTS MARGUERY -_ See DAYS. MARIGNAN in Paris. Bake aa savarin MARIGNAI\ -- Cake very popular in Paris. Bake (q.v.) in aamanque manque (q.v.) mould. When ready, soak: in syrup syrup soak it in flavoured with liqueur. on top of horizontal channels on top of liqueur. Cut 2 horizontal (see the cake. Marignan (see with Meringue àd Marignan cake. Decorate Decorate them them with the MERINGUE). Coyer apricot jam, leaving the the Cover the cake with apricotjam, meringue plain. MARIGOLD. SOUCI ame of several plants, plants, among among them Name them soucl -- N the cultivated marigold flowers are are sometimes sometimes marigold whose yellow flowers used marsh The fully fully blown buds of the the marsh blown buds butter. The used to to colour butter. marigold pickled in vinegar, masquerading in vinegar, marigold are are sometimes sometimes pickled as as capers. MARINADE -- A cooked or or uncooked, in in A seasoned seasoned liquid, cooked which foodstuffs, notably are steeped. notably meat and fish, fish, are steeped. The purposes of aa marinade is food steeped is to the food steeped The purposes to season season the in it by impregnating of its condiments. condiments. impregnating them with the flavour ofits It also meat aa tiule, little, and and kinds of of meat fibres of of some also softens the the fibres some kinds enables an is longer th is rather longer meat to than kept rather fish and and meat to be be kept enables fish generally possible. The left in in aa foodstuffs should be left should be The time during which which foodstuffs time during marinade ter In win and texture. winter texture. In marinade depends depends upon upon their their size size and large cuts left in marinade for for in aa marinade and venison venison can can be be left cuts of meat meat and 55 to for not be be steeped steeped for days. In In summer, should not to 66 days. summer, they they should longer 24 to large cuts of case of oflarge cuts of longer than 48 hours, hours, except except in in the case than24 to 48 venison, longer steeping. venison, which require longer steeping.

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t

preparing mussels MARINIÈRE (A LA) mussels and and of preparing Method of LA) -- Method MARINIDRE (À (see MUSSELS). other name isis also also applied applied to to This name MUSSELS). This other shellfish shellfish (see garcertain and garwine and cooked in in white white wine fish cooked made of of fish dishes made certain dishes (see BRILL, sels (see nished mariniire). BRILL, Brm Brill àd lala marinière). mussels nished with with mus

COOKED MARINADES. culrEs MRIN,c,DES CUITESMARINADES. MARINADES Preservation DEs coNSERVATIoN DES Preservation of of cooked cooked marinades. marinades. CONSERVATION MARINADES quite kept for for quite These marinades marinades can can be be kept MARINADES CUITES cutrEs -- These aa long time provided they every other other to the are brought the boil boil every they are brought to day Each time the four days days in in winter. winter. Each time the day in in summer summer and and every every four marinade is added and vinegar vinegar should be added wine and should be is boiled aa little wine to to it. it. Cooked cUITE MARINADE CUITE for meat meat and and venison. venison. MARINADE Cooked marinade marinade for pouR VIANDES POUR very Brown very BoucHERrE ET ET VENAISON vENAISoN -- Brown VTANDES DE DE BOUCHERIE slightly for UnUnand herbs herbs indicated indicated for vegetables and slightly in in oil oil the the vegetables cooked (see below). and vinegar, vinegar, Add white white wine wine and cooked marinade below). Add marinade (see and gently for minutes. and simmer for 30 30 minutes. simmer gently

MARIVAUX GARNISHES. MARMUX -- See See GARNISHES. MARJORAM. herb, which This aromatic aromatic herb, which isis MARToLAINE -- This MARJORAM. MARJOLAINE used middle of of summer. flowers in in the summer. used in in cookery, cookery, flowers the middle MARMALADES. In French French the the word word MARMELADES -- ln MARMALADES. MARMELADES marmelade very long long time fruit stewed for aa very time stewed for applied to to fruit marmelade isis applied until given below pur6e. Recipes Recipes are are given below reduced to until itit isis reduced to aa thick thick purée. (marmelades). For for general For general marmalades (marmelades). for various various fruit fruit marmalades jam-making, see instructions JAMS AND AND JELUES. JELLIES. see JAMS instructions on on jam-making, poMMEs - Put Apple peeled MARMELADE DE DE POMMES the peeled Apple marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE - Put the 575 575

MARMITE MARMITE into the fibrous pi th and and the fibrous into quarters, quarters, remove the the seeds, seeds, the the pith

and quartered quartered apples into into aa copper pan. Moisten Moisten with a few tablespoons Cook on the stove over over a gentle gent le heat. tablespoons water. cook Rub Rub the apples through a a sieve sieve set set over over a a large large basin. basin. Return Retum this pur6e purée to to the pan, with the the liquor liquor in which which it it has has been g. (ll (11 oz, oz., l| It cups) sugar for for every every been cooked. Add 300 g. 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 2| 2t cups) pulp. Mix Mix and boil the marmalade, marmalade, stirring all ail the the time time with with the skimmer. skimmer.

parts, sieve. Add a wide wide meshed wire sieve. Add an parts, and and rub through a equal quantity of sugar and one-third of the weight weigbt of the pulp pulp in apple juice, juice, obtained obtained in the the manner described described for jelly (see Apple Appleje//y (see JAMS JAMS AND AND JELLIES). Boil Boil in the the usual way. way. Peach marmalade. mannalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE or DE pEcHrs PÊCHES - Prepare with peaches peaches in the same sa me way as Apricot marmalade. marmalade. Pear Pear marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE porRrs POIRES - Prepare with wi th quartered quartered pears in the same same way as Apple Apple marmalade. marmalade. Plum marmalade. mannalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE pRUNEs PRUNES - Prepare with plums plums in the same same way as Apricot Apricot marmalade. marmalade. Quince marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE corNGS COINGS -- Prepare Prepare in the Quince same way as Apple Apple marmalade, marmalade, using quinces. quinces.

To determine determine whether the marmalade marmalade is is cooked drop a little onto a plate. plate. If If this remains remains in in a blob blob without without spreading spreading little onto out the the marmalade marmalade is is cooked. Ingredients. Apricot MARMELADE D'ABRIcors D'ABRICOTS -Ingredients. Apricot marmalade. mannalade. MARMELADE I1 kg. (2i (2i lb.) sroned stoned apricots (net (net weight), weight), 750 g. (l| nt lb., 33 cups) (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant it cup) water. cups) sugar, I1 dl. (6 Method. Method. Simmer the the apricots apricots in the the water for 20 20 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring them them with with a copper copper or or wooden wooden spatula. Rub Rub through through a sieve and put put the the pulp pulp into into a pan pan with the the sugar. Cook to to the tbe jelling jelling stage. Finish Finish as as described described above. above. sugar. Cook Fig marmalade. marmalade. IvrmlrELADE MARMELADE DE DE FIGITES FIGUES - Peel Peel and slice slice figs figs which which should should be be ripe ripe but but firm. Prepare Prepare aa syrup syrup made made of of 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) sugar sugar and and aa little little water water for for every every I1 ke.Qt kg. (2t lb.) lb.) fruit. fruit. Add Add the the sliced sliced figs. Boil is reached. reached. Boil until until the the jelling jelling stage stage is Melon Melon marmalade. mannalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE MELoN MELON -- Remove the the rind of the the melons melons and and the the seeds, seeds, and and rub rub the the pulp pulp through through a rind of sieve. g. (4 (4 oz,lcup) oz., t cup) sugar sugar per per 450 450 g. (l (1 lb.) lb.) pulp pulp if if sieve. Add Add 100 100 g. this this is is very very sweet, sweet, or or more more ifif itit isis less less sweet. sweet. Boil Boil until until itit sets. sets. Orange Orange marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE D'oRANGES D'ORANGES -- Pierce Pierce l0 10 oranges oranges in in several several places places with with aa pointed pointed stick, stick, and and blanch blanch in in boiling 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. boiling water water for for 25 Put tap for Put them them under under the the cold cold "tap for some sorne time. time. Divide Divide them them

MARMITE - Metal Metal or earthenware covered pot, with with or without without feet, feet, depending on whether it is used used for cooking cooking in

the hearth hearth or on the the stove. stove.

Straight-sided marmites for for stove stove cooking can can have have a Straight-sided marmites capacity as much as as 200 litres (44 gallons, gallons, 55 55 gallons). capacity of as These very large large pots pots have have a tap fitted fitted near the base. base. Cooking Cooking pots pots of of this this size or even larger are often required in large establishments such as hospitals, etc. They may be be either fixed and should be be made made with a false fixed or swinging, and bottom bottom so so that that their their contents are heated heated by steam. There are are special types types for for mediummedium- or or high-pressure high-pressure cooking. Large Large swinging swinging marmites marmites are balanced balanced in such such aa as to way wayas to ensure ensure their their stability at all ail angles. Pots Pots of of this type type intended intended for use use on on board board ship ship have have a concave concave lip lip to prevent prevent spilling in heavy heavy seas. seas. spilling in There There isis also also aa type type of of double dou ble cooking cooking pot pot calledamarmite. called a marmite.

Earthenwaremarmites marmites(Nicolas) (Nicolas) Earthenware

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MARTINIQUE MARTINIQUE pot the water in the bottom is heated by vapour passing Inthis thispot In the water in the bottom is heated by vapour passing through coil of ofcopper coppertubing. tubing.Baskets Baskets are areused forcookusedfor cookthrough aacoil ing rice, fish, meat, etc. ing rice, fish, meat, etc. MARMITE, PETITE PETITE-- Name Name of ofaac1ear clear savoury savoury broth, broth, aa MARMITE, type of of hot hotpot, cookedand andserved servedininan anearthenware pot. earthenware pot. type pot, cooked This broth broth was was invented invented inin Paris Paris and and isismuch prized by muchprized by This gourmets. (See (See PETITE PETITE MARMITE, MARMITE, SOUPS SOUPS AND AND gourmets. BROTHS.) BROTHS.)

MARMOT. MARMOTTE MARMoTTE - - Rodent Rodent about about the the size size of of aalarge large MARMOT. pyrenees. cat, which which lives lives at at high high altitudes altitudes ininthe Alps and the Alps andthe thePyrenees. cat, grow very Marmots grow very fat fat towards towards the the end end of of the the autumn. autumn.In In Marmots the win winter hibernate and they hibernate and live live on on their their fat. fat. Their Their ftesh, flesh, the ter they which has pronounced musky has aa pronounced musky ftavour, flavour, isis edible edible after after long long which steeping in in aa marinade. marinade. steeping MAROILLFS -- Small Small town town in in northem northern France France which which has has MAROILLES given its (See its name name to cheese, also to aa cheese, also known known as as Marolles. Marolles. (See given CHEESE.) CHEESE.)

lDore:Aluminium Above: Aluminium (Laroussel marmjte (Larousse) marmite

MAROUETIE -- Type Type of of rail rail which which isis very very good good to eat. to eat. MAROUETIE It isis said said that King Charles that King Charles X gave orders X of of France France gave orders that that It he should should be be immediately immediately informed informed whenever whenever aa ftight flight of of he marouettes was was sighted, sighted, even even if if he he were were in in council council with with his his marouettes ministers. ministers. This bird bird L'is; prepared prepared in in the same way quail. (q.v.). (q.v.). the same way as as quai!. This MARQUER -- In French cookery, In French cookery, this this term term covers covers al! all MARQUER operations connected connected with with the preparation of the preparation of foodstuffs foodstuffs operations prior to to cooking. cooking. prior 'Food fully prepared, and fully prepared, put in and put in aa saucepan, saucepan, when when nothnoth'Food ing remains remains but but to to cook cook it,' it,' isis how how Plumerey Plumerey defined defined this this ing cooking term. term. Marquer, Marquer,however, generally used is generally used in aa more more cooking however, is limited sense, place food sense, meaning meaning to to place food in in aa buttered buttered or greased or greased limited pan, lined with pork skin, with pork skin, and and carrots carrots and and onions onions cut cut into into pan, lined rings. rings.

Rigfil: Marmite Marmite for ior Righi: potato es (Larousse) ( Lar ous se) steaming potatoes steaming

MARQUISE of aa variety variety of very tender of very tender and and sweet sweer MARQUISE -- Name Name of pear. This fruit, fruit, which pyramid shaped, which is is pyramid shaped, is is in in season season in pear. This France and December. December. France in in November November and MARRON of chestnut, chestnut, improved by cultivation, cultivation, MARRON -- A A kind kind of improved by which variety. which is is bigger bigger and and better better than than the the common common variety. It for It is is eaten eaten boiled boiled or or grilled, grilled, or or prepared prepared in in various various ways for use cooking, pdtisserie pâtisserie and and confectionery. confectionery. use in in cooking, The The chestnut chestnut is is a a concentrated concentrated sour@ source of of nourishment nourishment (25O (250 calories calories per per 100 100 g.,4 g., 4 oz.) oz.) although although it it is rather rather indigesindigestible to the the fact fact that that its its starch starch is is not not easily assimilable. tible owing owing to The The chestnut chestnut is is not not very very rich rich in in vitarnins, vitamins, but but contains contains a high proportion proportion of of mineral mineraI salts. salts. Its Its high high calcium calciwn and and phosphorus phosphorus content content make make it it an an excellent excellent food food for for children children and and conconvalescents, valescents, provided provided they they have have healthy healthy digestions. digestions. Peeling Peeling chestnuts. chestnuts. Slit Slit the the surface surface of of the the chestnuts on the the domed domed face. face. Put Put them them in in aa baking baking tin tin with with aa little little water water and roast roast them them in in the the oven oyen for for 88 minutes. minutes. Peel Peel while while thev they are are still hot. hot. Another Another method. method. Slit Slit the the chestnuts chestnuts as as indicated indicated above. above. put Put them, them, aa few few at at aa time, time, into into boiling boiling fat. fat. Deep-fry Deep-fry for for 22 minutes. minutes. Drain. Drain. Peel Peel them them while while they they are are still still hot. hot. Stainless stef'l steel marmrte marmite and stew stew pan pan Stainless

MARRONS MARRONS GLACES GLACÉS --' See See CHESTNUT. CHESTNUT.

(Chorand)rand

MARSHMALLOW. MARSHMALLOW. pArn PÂTE on DE curMAUvE GUIMAUVE -- This confection confection contains con tains no no real real marshmallow, marshmallow, in in spite of its its name. name. It isis

MARSALA MARSALA -- Dessert Dessert wine wine made made in in Italy Italy from from grapes grapes grown grown in in Sicily. Sicily. This This wine, wine, which which has has something something in in common common with with sherry sherry or or Madeira, Madeira, contains contains about about 24 24 per per cent cent of of alcohol. alcohol. ItIt isis drunk drunk as as an an aperitif apéritif before before meals, meals, and and isis also also used used in in cooking cooking and and pdtisserie. pâtisserie.

where where the the bulbs bulbs are are used used for for food. food.

MARSEILLAN MARSEILLAN -- Wine Wine generally generally known known as as pelure pelure d'oignon d'oignon (onion (onion skin). skin). ItIt isis made made at at Marseillan, Marseillan, aa little hule town town in in the the H6rault Hérault district. district.

MARTINlQUE -- Island Island in in the the Lesser Lesser Antilles Antilles colonised colonised by by MARTINIQUE the French French in in the the seventeenth seventeenth century century and and renowned renowned for for its its the considered the the best best in in the the world. world. Sugar Sugar cane cane isis grown grown rum, considered rum,

made made of of egg egg whites. whites.

MARTAGON -- Variety Variety of of Alpine Alpine lily, lily, also also found found in in Russia, Russia, MARTAGON

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MARTIN-SEC According to to this Ihis story slory it il seems seems certain certain that thal marzipan mar"ipan sweets, if if they were not not actually actually invented in in the the province province of of

Ihis part of the the world, and rum rum is one of the extensively in this products prod ucts of of sugar sugar cane. cane. Martinique Martinique coffee has a a great reputation. The island also produces prod uces cocoa cocoa and fine spices. spices.

and that Berry, Berry, were were once once very very popular popular there, there, and that those those of of Issoudon lssoudon enjoyed enjoyed a great reputation. reputation. Marzipan is is very very popular in Flanders; marzipan of of the finest quality is manufactured manufactured industrially all ail over Belgium. Belgium.

MARTIN-SEC MA.RTJN-SEC - Variety of pear in season in France from November November to January. It Tt is is ovoid ovoid in shape and of medium medium russet skin. The pulp pulp is gritty gritty and rather dry, but size with a russet quite qui te sweet.

OLD OLD MARZIPAN MARZIPAN RECIPES. RECIPES.

RECETTES RECETTES ANCIENNES ANCIENNES DE DE The following MAssEpAINs MASSEPAINS - The following recipes recipes are are taken taken from from the

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royal, published by Claud Prud'homme Confiturier Confiturier royal, Prud'homme n Ul 1732. Plain Plain marzipan marzipan sweets. sweets. MAssEpAINS MASSEPAINS coMMUNs COMMUNS - 'Take, 'Take lili kg. kg, (3+ (Jt lb., lb., 10| lOi cups) sweet almonds. Peel Peel them Ihem in in hot hot water. water. Drain and and dry dry them. them, After After this, this, pound pound them them in in aa marble mortar, pouring egg white over them from time to time to prevent them from becoming too oily. 'When 'Wh en the almonds are pounded to a smooth paste, pas te, cook (l+ lb., 700 g. (I! lb" 3J cups) sugar to the feather stage. Next, put put in in spatula, ycur all the ingredients with a spatula, and blend ail ycur almonds and of the pan to carefully scraping the sides of to prevent prevent sticking, sticking, off the stove. which may occur even though the pan is taken ta ken off You will know that your your paste is is ready if if none sticks io io the back of your hand when you you touch it. il. Next, Next, take the paste paste on a pastry board. out of the pan and and put it on board, Sprinkle it it with with fine sugar on both sides. sides. Leave to cool. out shapes out •'Roll Roll it out to aa moderate thickness. Cut your your shapes of the the paste with with biscuit-cutters. biscuit-cutters, Press Press them them down down slightly with the tip of your your finger onto sheets of rice paper, paper, to to bake only. Next, them. Expose them to !O heat heat on one side only. Next. ice them on the other si side de and then cook in the same way. way, 'They can be made round, oval, fluted, ftuted, heart-shaped, heart-shaped, etc. your paste and squirt squirt it can also also make You You can make your paste very very moist moist and it will have as many through a syringe. Your marzipan sweets will differ shapes, though as they special names as special they have have shapes, though they will will differ and the in shape and the manner in one another another only in from one in which from as will be se iced, as seen they are iced, en below.' below.' 'When your your crecns -- 'When MAssEPAINs GLAcFS sweets. MASSEPAINS Iced marzipan marzipan sweets. are baked baked fluted, are or fiuted, oval or cut round, marzipan sweets, sweets, eut round, long, oval lift them off the paper with a on one side, gently lift and ready on and in one of of the the two on the unbaked si side knife. Then ice ice them on de in knife. Then following ways: or sorne orange blossom or some other 'Take water scented with with orange 'Take juice, according to to the the type type of of fruit juice, or cooked cooked fruit flavouring, or fiavouring, little you wish Mix in in little by little wish to make. Mix sweets you marzipan sweets to make. little by mixture weil well until until itit is stirring the mixture some fine powdered sugar, stimng sorne as porridge. Take out some of this icing with aa knife as thick as knife put your marzipan Then, put marzipan sweets. sweets. Then, it neatly neatly on on your and spread spread it and paper and in the and wann the rice paper warm them them gently in back on on the the rice them back Put them in a tin for use when required. set the icing. Put oven to set 'The other made with with the the egg egg white white and of icing icing is other type type of 'The is made fruit pulp, workworksome cooked cooked fruit fine sugar only, or mixed with sorne make both both types as indicated above. Vou You can make ing and and using using as distinguish between as to at the time, so so as to distinguish of icing icing at the same same time, of differently.' differently shaped shaped sweets sweets by icing them them differently.' differently 'The paste paste is is MAssEpAINs ROYAlS RoyALS -- 'The marzipan sweets. MASSEPAINS Royal marzipan piece and out and stretch first kind. Take aa piece stretch itit out as for for the tirst the same same as the finger. Cut the strip of aa finger. the strip about the the thickness thickness of on the the table table to to about on your finger. finger. pieces as as will will make aa ring ring around your as many pieces into as come will not not come that they they will firmly together together so so that Press the the ends ends firmly Press little apricot apricot in egg egg white into which aa !ittle apart. Dip these rings in these rings aparL jam has Blow on on in fine fine sugar. sugar. Blow mixed, then, dip them has been been mixed, then, dip them in jam paper to rice paper on rice sugar. Put Put them them on off surplus surplus sugar. them to to shake shake off them and as they have been iced iced top and oven, as in the the oven, on both sides in bake on bottom.'

MARTJN-SIRE -- Variety of of pear, also known known as rouville, in MARTIN-SIRE in France France in in November. November. It is is rather rather large large and season in season hs skin skin is is yellowish with grey grey flecks, ftecks, the the pulp elongated. Its fion and quite sweeL firm sweet. MARTYRS, (BRASSERIE DES) MARTYRS, BYGONE DAYS. DA YS. OF BYGONE

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See RESTAURANTS See RESTAURANTS

MASSEPAIN -. Marzipan is made from ground MARZIPAN. MAssEpAIN can be coloured and almonds, egg whites. almonds, sugar sugar and and egg whites. It lt can be coloured flavoured and made into petits ftavoured and made into perilS fours fours (q.v.) (q.v.) of of different different as massepains. Marzipan is in France as is also shapes, shapes, known in used sweets in used to to make makc little httle sweets in the form fonn of fruit, vegetables, vegetables, etc. of very ancient origin, origin, and Marzipan is is of very ancient and was was probably order of nuns, who made originally by by sorne who made made many made some order little httle cakes and sweets. of l8M, aa rumour began ln 1844, began to to circulate that that the the author of In as aa conhumaine (Balzac) had set himself la Comédie Comidie humaine la had set himself up up as fectioner. anything el else Exchange, in 'No one talked of anything se on the Stock Exchange, and in in ail at the Théâtre-Français, Th6dtre-Frangais, and all the foyer of the Opéra, the foyer Op6ra, at the cafés caf6s on the Paris boulevards. circular hadjust ofcopies ofaa curious circular 'Several thousands thousands of copies of had just as follows: made their appearance appearance in in Paris, Paris. They read as ISSOUDON I,T,CRZIPA,N MARZIPANI!

"Gentlemen, "Gentlemen, just opened "I have just at 38 opened aa shop shop at 38 bis "1 bis rue rue Vivienne Vivienne to of Berry, which, in prod uct which, in the the province province of exploit this product exploit this old. The most reputation almost aa hundred years old, enjoys a reputation it thus in one of of speaks of it thus in remarkable novelist of our era speaks remarkabJe his his works: given the 'This worthy woman was given recipe by by those the recipe woman was 'This most famous famous nuns to whom we owe Issoudon marzipan, confectionery, one of the greatest creations of French confectionery, one pastry-cook master chef, chef, cook, cook, pas or conwhich no master and w and hich no try-cook or M. de de Rivière, Riviere, able !O to imitate. imitate. M, has been fectioner has been able fectioner in Constantinople, ordered large Constantinople, ordered French Ambassador in year for quantities every of the for the the seraglio seraglio of the Sultan quantities every year Mahmoud.'-- H. de de Balzac. Mahmoud.' "This unique day has has been been which to to this this day "This unique sweetmeat, sweetmeat, which come within only for the table, will now come made only the rich man's table, people by many more more people of our our new virtue of reach of of many by virtue the the reach policy. Issoudon marzipan marzipan costing costing from from 60 60 francs selling selling policy. In order order on sale Paris. ln to 5 francs francs will will be be on sale to to the the people of Paris. !O qualities of popularise the of Ihis this sweetto popularise the extraordinary extraordinary qualities to for 50 centimes in in the shop." of it will will be sold sold for meat, slices slices of 'This circular no signature, and itit was was inferred inferred Ihat that bore no signature, and circular bore 'This pen of Balzac or from the Balzac or or that that of aa friend, friend, edilor editor or came l'rom the pen itit came No one else had had ever ever thought of the the idea idea of of colleague. No one eJse thought of colleague, launching aa confectioner's with aa paragraph from from aa shop with confectioner's shop launching novel. novel. 'After making Balzac, making enquiries it was was discovered discovered that that Balzac, 'After enquiries il go to length of taking hand in in the he did taking aa hand not go though he did not the length to the though in the rue Vivienne. work, patronised the confectioner's shop shop in work, the confectioner's queues of visitors 'For aa fortnight, there were long queues curious vi of curious 'For si tors at 60 the 5050francs, the were few few takers 60 francs, takers al and, and, though though there there were in large numbers. numbers. were sold sold in centime centime slices slices were and the matters and the other matters 'Then Paris attention to to other Paris turned turned ils its attention 'Then Cabanes) (Dr Cabanes) sale of marzipan sweets sweets slumped.' slumped.'(Dr sale of

MODERNES RECIPES. RECETTES RECETTES MODERNES MODERN MARZIPAN MARZIPAN RECIPES. MODERN _ in MAssEpAINs ORDINAIRES oRDINAIREs -- Pound Pound in sweets. MASSEPAINS Plain marzipan sweets. Plain (9 oz" g. (9 almonds and and mortar 250 oz.,l| cups) blanched blanched sweet sweet almonds 250 g. aa mortar l~ cups)

DE MASSEPAINS MASSEPAINS DE

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MATE MATÉ or 55 bitter moistening from bitter almonds, almonds, moistening from time time to to time time with with aa 44 or little co cold water. Id water. little As soon soon as as the almonds are are reduced reduced to smooth, rather rather the almonds to aa smooth, As paste, put (18 oz., put them pan with stiff paste, in aa copper copper pan with 500 them in 500 g.g. (18 oz, 44 stiff pinch of powdered vanilJa cups) fine fine sugar, of powdered vanilla and and aa few few drops drops sugar, aa pinch cups) of orange-blossom orange-blossom water. Mix weil low f1ame, water. Mix well over over aa low flame, stirring stirring of with aa wooden wooden spoon until the mixture isis thoroughly spoon until the mixture thoroughly dried. dried. with Put itit back back in pestle until in the mortar and and work work weil the mortar well with with the the pestle until Put becomes very very smooth. To make put itit on smooth. To make itit even even smoother, smoother, put on itit becomes hand, mixing the table and work table and work by by hand, mixing in in aa small small handful handful of of fine fine the sugar sifted hair sieve. through aa hair sifted through sieve. sugar (t inch). paste to Roll out out the the paste to aa thickness thickness of of 22 cm. cm. (i inch). Put Put itit on on Roll paper and sheet of ofrice and cut cut into into shapes. shapes. Put Put these these shapes shapes on on aa sheet rice paper baking sheet paper. Dry sheet covered covered with with paper. Dry in in aavery cool oyen. oven. aa baking very cool Soft marzipan marzipan sweets. sweets. MASSEPAINS MAssEpArNs DITS Drrs MOELLEUX MoELLEUX -Soft (18 OZ., Ingredients.500 g. (18 (18 OZ., g. (18 oz., 3t 3| cups) cups) almonds, almonds, 500 500 g. oz., Ingredients. 500 g. (9 OZ., g. (9 (see cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 250 250 g. oz, 1I cup) cup) Royal Royal icing icing (see 44 cups) ICING), 10 l0 egg l0 drops egg whites, whites, 10 drops essence essence of of bitter almonds almonds or or ICING), teaspoon almond almond essence. essence. ] teaspoon Method. Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated above. above. Pipe onto buttered buttered Pipe onto Method. paper in in various various shapes or in shapes or in rings. rings. Sprinkle and with sugar Sprinkle with sugar and paper in aa moderate moderate oyen. bake in oven. bake Marzipan sweets. sweets. MASSEPAINS MASsEpATNs -- Pound finely finely in in aa mortar mortar Marzipan (18 OZ., g. (18 (l lb., 500 g. oz,3lcups) blanched almonds g. (1 almonds with with 450 450 g. lb., 22 500 3t cups) blanched (2 OZ., cups) sugar g. (2 and 50 sugar and oz, i cup) 50 g. c.rp) vanilla-f1avoured vanilla-flavoured sugar, sugar, cups) adding 44 egg egg whites whites little little by by little. little. adding Leave this this mixture mixture to to stand stand for for aa few minutes. minutes. Roll Roll itit out out Leave to aa thickness thickness of of 33 mm. mm. (~ inch). Cut the sweets into into different to G inch). shapes. lce Ice with (see ICING) with rather rather liquid liquid Royal Royal icing icing (see ICING) shapes. flavoured with with aa few few drops drops of of orange-blossom water water or f1avoured orange essence. essence. Put Put on on aa baking baking sheet and bake sheet and in aa slow bake in slow orange oven. oyen. Marzipan sweets sweeb ài la russe. MASSEPAINS MAssEpArNs À A LA rn RUSSE nussE -- Work Marzipan la russe. (a OZ., together in aa bowl g. (4 bowl 100 100 g. oz., 11 cup) sieved sieved f10ur flour and and 375 g. together in (13 OZ., oz., 3 3 cups) cups) fine fine sugar, adding 8 egg whites, whites , 2 at aa time. time. (13 Working (13 OZ., the mixture mixture weIl, g. (13 well, add add 375 375 g. oz.,3f cups) Working the ground almonds (9 OZ., almonds and g. (9 and 250 g. oz.,l| cups) finely chopped ground 1 cups) finely chopped candied orange peel. Pipe the paste onto onto buttered buttered and candied orange peel. Pipe the paste floured sheets and bake in aa hot oyen. oven. Lift Lift the sweets f10ured baking baking sheets off off the the baking baking sheet while they are still hot. MASCOTTE filling aa Genoese cake with MASCOTTE - A A cake made by filling Butter crecon (see CREAMS) flavoured Butter cream (see CREAMS) f1avoured with with mocha mocha and mixed roasted hazelnuts. The Genoese rnixed with with finely finely pounded pounded roasted cake cake is is iced iced with with this cream. cream.

in aa hot hot oyen. oven. As As soon as they soon as they are are taken taken out out of of the the oyen, oven, in jam and spread the the tartlets tartlets with with apricot apricot jam and ice ice with with kirschkirschspread (se lCING). flavoured Fondant Fondant icing icing (see ICING). f1avoured MASTIC -- Resin Resin which which exudes pale yellow yellow exudes in in the form of of pale the fonn MASTIC drops from from incisions incisions made made in in the mastic tree. the mastic These drops tree. These drops drops are f10ury floury on and have have an on the the surface surface and an aromatic aromatic and and resinous resinous are flavour. Mastic Mastic cornes comes mainly mainly from from the the island island of of Chios. Chios. ItIt isis f1avour. chewed in in the the East East and and isis also also used used in in the the spirit known as spirit known as chewed (q.v.). Raki (q.v.). Raki

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Silver vessel vessel for for the the Silver preparation of of an an infusion infusion preparation of maté. mat€. The The hollow hollow stem stem of serves as as aa drinking drinking straw. straw. serves perforated hollow Its base base isis aa perforated hollow Ils ball which which serves serves as as aa bail (/-aroasse) strainer (Larousse) strainer

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(Collection Dr Dr Gottschalk. Gottschalk. (Collection Larousse\ Phot. Larousse) Phot.

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MAIE Plant sometimes sometimes known known as as Paraguay MA 1É -- Plant Paraguay tea. tea. Its Its leaves, which are rich preparation rich in in caffein, caffein, are used leaves, in the used in the preparation of an infusion which is is both aa stimulant stimulant and aa tonic. This drink, drink, which which is is relatively relatively cheap, This cheap, is much used is much used in in Peru, Chile, the Argentine, Argentine, Brazil, Brazil, Bolivia, Bolivia, Paraguay, etc. Peru, etc. In South South America, America, maté mat6 tea In tea is is made rnade in in aa somewhat eccentric fashion. The powdered maté mat6 is placed in hoIlowedeccentric hollowedout gourds which have been dried and and decorated. decorated. These are called matés mafts in sorne some countries countries and and, culha culla in in Brazil. Brazil. Boiling water is poured over the powder. The tops are then then replaced on the gourds. The drinkers drinkers take it in in turns to suck suck the tea contained in the gourds through through aa special straw known as a bombilla. This infusion infusion is also made in containers of precious metal, with a bombilla of the same metal rnetal through through which the tea is drunk. Mat6 Maté can be be prepared in different different ways. ways. It is best best in an It is infusion, prepared as follows: follows : Put Put in in a a teapot teapot 25 25 g. g. (l (l oz.) oz.) mat6 maté (leaves (leaves or powder). powder). Pour Pour on on I1 litre (If; (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) boiling boiling water. Leave Leave to infuse in a hot hot place for at least 10 minutes. Strain. least l0 Drink hot or cold, with or without sugar, according to sugar, according taste. tas te. The infusion of mat6, maté, which must always be carried carried out in a hot hot place, place, can be prolonged prolonged beyond l0 10 minutes. Some Sorne authorities assert that this plant only yields up all aIl its properties after long long simmering, simmering, and and that it it should should be left to infuse, infuse, with with the the teapot teapot standing on the stove or in a basin of boiling boiling water, water, for I1 hour. hour. As As in in the the case case of oftea, maté can can be be flavoured f1avoured in in various various ways. ways. tea, mat6 Thus Thus lemon lemon juice, juice, rum, rum, kirsch, kirsch, etc., may may be added. After straining, the the leaves leaves or grounds can be be stirred once once or twice straining,

MASCOTTE small MASCOTTE (A (À LA) LA) - Name of ofaa garnish served with srnall cuts cuts of of meat meat and poultry. poultry. It consists of quartered artichoke artichoke hearts hearts sauteed sautéed in in butter, butter, small smaIl potatoes potatoes cut into the shape of olives olives and and cooked in butter. butter, and truffies. truffles.

MASKING. MASKING. NAppER NAPPER - Masking Masking is the covering of of food with its appropriate sauce sauce after after itit is dished dished up for serving. serving. its appropriate

MASSENA MASSÉNA (A (À LA) LA) - The name name of of a garnish gamish served with small cuts of meat, meat, tournedos tournedos and fillets. fillets. It It consists consists of articuts of choke hearts hearts filled filled with with thick thick Biarnaise Béarnaise sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and strips of of poached poached beef beef bone-marrow. bone-marrow.

MASILLONSPetitfour (q.v.) almond paste MASILLONS-Petitfour (q.v.) of ofalmond paste in in the the shape of of aa tartlet. tartlet. Ingredients.I25 Ingredients. 125 g. g. g (4 oz., OZ., I~ cup) cup) blanched blanched almonds, 250 250 g. (9 (9 o2.,2 OZ., 2 cups) cups) fine fine sugar, 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., I cup) cup) butter, butter, 6 egg egg whites, whites, 125 125 g. g. @ (4 oz., OZ., I1 cup) cup) cornflour cornflour (cornstarch), (comstarch), vanilla. vanilla. Method. Method. Pound Pound the the almonds almonds with with 22 egg egg whites, whites, the the sugar sugar and and the the vanilla. vanilla. Rub Rub this this mixture mixture through through aa sieve. sieve. Put Put itit in in aa bowl and work work it, it, adding adding the the rest rest of of the the egg egg whites whites to to make make it bowl and very very frothy. frothy. Add Add the the butter, butter, melted, melted, then then dredge dredge in in the the corncornflour f10ur (cornstarch). (cornstarch). Mix Mix. thoroughly. thoroughly. little buttered Fill FiIllittle buttered tartlet tartlet cases cases with with this this mixture mixture and and bake bake

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MATEFAIM producing a second and third inta third drink which is into hot water, producing pleasant. still quite pleasant.

and heart-shaped heart-shaped pieces rooms, freshwater crayfish and rooms, pieces of fried bread. bread. meuniire -- Made with one kind of fish fish only Matelote Matelote ià la meunière (usually eel) kinds of fish. fish. Proceed eel) or with several different kinds canotiire, moistening the the fish with red as Malelote àd la canolière, fish with as for Matelote and flour flour kneaded Thicken the sauce with butter and wine. Thicken kneaded tosauce \VÎth gether. and pieces Gamish with freshwater crayfish and pieces Garnish the malelote matelote with of bread fried fried in butter. la normande -- Made Made with saltwater fish fish cut Matelote ài la fish with eider. cider. Add Calvados into thick slices. slices. Moisten the fish Veloute sauce sauce (see, and alight. Thîcken (see SAUCE) and set Thicken with with Velouté set alight. Bring the sauce to on concentrated fish stock. Bring based fish stock. the sauce ta the based on cream, allowing allowing by adding thick fresh fresh cream, required consistency consistency by (+ pint, 1 quart, generous quart) l+ dL 11 (scant quart, dl. Ct J cup) per litre (scant sauce. mushrooms, mussels, mussels, poached oysters, Garnish with with mushrooms, Garnish pieces of bread fried in crayfish, and and small small heart-shaped crayfish, heart~shaped pieces butter. butter.

given in MATEFAIM - Name Name given in certain regions of of France, France, certain regions MATEFAIM: notably the Loire, Ain Ain and and Jura, Jura, to coarse but to a notably tbe Loire, a rather rather coarse nourishing of pancake which appeases or dulls the edge nourishing type ofpancake of appetite. given in in French French cooking to MATELOTE -- Name Name given to aa fish fish stew made with white or red wine. are also also called called meurettes meurettes or Strictly, matelotes, matelotes, which which are Strictly, pochouses and method of preparation, po,cnc>us,es according to district and freshwater-fish. be made from freshwater 6sh. Only the the dish known should be as mate/olP la normande normande is from sea sea fish, as is made made from fish, mainly matelote àd la and gurnet. This malelote matelole is eel and sole. is moistened with sole, conger eel (see SAUCE) Velouti .\'Guce with Velouté sauce (see and thickened cider thickened with cider and based cream. based on fish stock and fresh cream. matelote is also loosely and and incorrectly applied The tenn is also term malelote and poultry. to dishes made of veal and Most maleloles matelores of freshwater 6sh fish should be garnished. In addition to which must onions and and mushrooms which to the small onions the smaU always be cooked with be cooked with the the fish, fisb, add add freshwater crayfish tn a courl-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), and heart-shaped heart-shaped pieces of cooked in fried fried bread. bread. and With of malelole, matelote, such such as as pochouse pochouse and With some types of some types lo lourangelle, tourangelle, lardoons of belly matelote àd /a lardoons of belly of pork pork are cooked with the fish at the same time as the smalt small onions and cooked mushrooms. preparation of most matelotes matelotes is in the preparation The method used in Ia canotière. canotiire. under Matelote indicated below under Male/olP àd la matelote de meuniCre -la bourguignonne bourguignonne or de meunière Matelote Ili la or matelote as meurPlIP, Ttis matPlo/p, matelole, known as meurettq is This is made from freshwater These fish, fish, cut fish: cut into carp, pikerel, eel, barbel. 6sh: small pikerel, eel, barbe!. These small carp, pan on are put on aa foundation of finely chunks, are put in a copper pan and onions, onions, sprigs of parsley, sprigs of carrots and sliced parsley, thyme, thyme, bay sliced carrots oves of of garlic. The mixture mixture is moistened .-n""~t,,,""\,.,.1 leaves and crushed crushed cl cloves Blazing Burgundy Burgundy marc brandy is added, and with red wine. BlazÎng kneaded toand fiour is thickened with with butter and flour kneaded the the sauce sauce is Garnish with bread cut into gether. Garnlsh inta squares, fried in butter, butter, garlic. and rubbed with garlîc. and Matelote ài la canotière Matelote canotiire -- Made with carp and eel. g. (5 oz.,l|li cups) with 150 g. Butter a deep frying pan. Line with (5 oz., finely chopped onion and 4 cloves of crushed onion and in crushed garlic. Put in (:1 lb.) fish pieces of equal thickness, with a t* kg. kg. (Ji Jt fish cut into inta pieces pan. Moisten Moisten large houqupt the middle of the pan. bouquet garni (q.v.) in the (1? pints, generous quart) dry white wine. Bring with with 1I litre (li (6 tablespoons, scant t* cup) brandy, add 1 I dl. to ta the boil, boil, add dL (6 flame fiame it and cook with the pan covered. in another pan. Add Drain the pieces of fish and put them in (4 oz.) (4 oz.) g. (4 125 and J125 125 g. 25 g. g. (4 oz.) small cooked mushrooms and Moisten with the stock stock in which the fish fish small glazed onions. on ions. Moisten down to has to two-thirds of Îts its volume. has been cooked, boiled boiled down Thicken with and flour kneaded together, allowing Thicken with butter and flour kneaded (4 oz., g. (4 g. (2 oz., tI cup) flour oz.,1".rp) 50 g. flour 100 g. ! cup) butter to ta every quaft, generous quart) quart) stock. Finally add add 150 g. litre (scant quart, (5 oz., gently. Serve Simmer gently. Serve the (5 JO tablespoons) butter. butter. Simmer oz., 10 matelote in a deep dish or bowl. matelote gudgeon dipped Garnish with fried dipped in egg and and breadGarnish with fried gudgeon in egg crumbs (apart from the head and tail), and freshwater from the head and tail), and crayfish cooked in a court-bouillon. with aa mixture of freshMatelote ài la mariniire -- Made with 'YJ"~l<""U". la marinière Ia canotière, canotiire, moistenfish. Proceed as as for for Matelote Malelole àd la water fish. with a sauce with Thicken the white wine. ing the stew with white wine. Thicken the sauce ing the stew with (see SAUCE) made by moistening aa white Vp/oulé made by Velouti sauce sauce (see roux of butter and roux and flour ftour with concentrated fish stock. This and trimmings of the stoek made from from the the heads heads and the fish stock is is made trimmings of flavoured with with onions, onions. and flavoured moistened moistened with with white white wine wine and parsley, thyme and bay leaves. leaves. glazd onions, onions, mushGarnish with small Garnish the the matelolP matelote with small glazed

MATIAS MATI AS -- A rather solid, unleavened unleavened galette galelle (q.v.) made of ordinary dough dough mixed mixed with with onions, onions, chopped chopped leeks leeks and ordinary mashed potatoes. ft It should be eaten hot. (q.v.) of vegetables served MATIGNON -* A fondue served as as a fondue (q.v.) (See also garnish with also GARof dishes. dishes. (See garnish with aa large large number number of NISHES.) Meafless matignon. MArrcNoN AU MATcRE Meatless matignon. MATIGNON MAIGRE -- Stew gently in I cup)choppedcarrot, butter 125 1255.@ 50g.(2oz.,lcup) (4 oz., oz., 1 cbopped carrot, 50 (2 oz., g. (l oz., finely oz., if cup) fin chopped celery, 25 25 g. el y chopped onions. Add half a bay leaf and a sprig of thyme. Season Season with Add with salt ofsugar. and a pinch of sugar. are very tender, moisten with with 1I dl. When the the vegetables are (6 tablespoons, Boil down down until weil well (6 tablespoons, scant 1-i cup) ,Madeira. .. ~, .... "."u. Boîl "up) reduced. reduced. Prepared as Matignon with with meat. meat. MATIGNON MATIGNoN AU AU GRAS GRAs -- Prepared Matignon g. (4 oz.) lean raw indicated above, with the addition of 100 g. slices. ham cut into small thin slices.

MAYONNAISE-A cold sauce of which the basic MAYONNAISE-Acold ofwhich basic ingredients an emulsion. For recipes, are egg yolks and oil blended blended into an Cold sauces. see see SAUCE, Cold isien : Car6me in his Cuis inier par 'Culinary purists,' writes Carême his Cuisinier parisien: 'are not Traitd des des entrées entries froides, not in agreement regarding in agreement Traité froÎdps, 'are and mayonnaise, others others mahonnaise mahonnaise and the name. Some the name. Some say say mayonnaise, other bayonnaise. other We always always refer to this sauce by the name bayonnaise.We of magnonaise.' magnonaise.' probably aa corruption Mayonnaise is is probably corruption of of moyeunaisp, moyeunaise, derived from the old French word moyeu, which means egg yolk. mayonnaise is also used of of cold dishes dishes made from The term mayonnaise poultry, fish, shellfish or or poul covered wi with fish, try, covered th mayonnaise sauce garnished with lettuce lettuce hearts, hard-boiled eggs, anchovy and garnished fillets, and capers. fiUets, olives and ulyoNNAIsE DE polssoNs Fish mayonnaise. MA YONNAISE DE POISSONS -- Made from various kinds of fish, fish, cooked and and cut into small slices, slices, in various into small (see below). Lobster mayonnaÎse mayonnaise (see as Lobsler the same way as Boil a Lobater mayonnaise. mayonnaise. MAyoNNATsE DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Boil Ùlbster MAYONNAISE DE lobster lonster in a court-bouillon (q.v.) and and leave to ta cool. Take the meat and cut cut into equal thickness. meat of the tail tail and into pieces pieces of of equal thickness. of the oil, vinegar or or lemon Season with with salt, salt, pepper, oil, Season lemon juice, Dice the rest chopped parsley and the lobster chopped and chervil. Dice rest of the separately and season in the same way. separately Take the outer green leaves leaves of aa number of lettuces (setaside the hearts for Shred them coarsely ting aside them coarsely the hearts for garnishing). Sbred and dress. dress. Put the Line aa salad with shredded the diced diced salad bowl with shredded lettuce. Put lobster on this and arrange the on top. top. CoYer lobster on this and the slices slices on Cover with mayonnaise. Decorate with fillets olives and fillets of of anchovy, olives 580

MEAT MEAT iapers, and and surround quartered hard-boiJed surround with with quartered hard-boiledeggs eggsand and i.:apers, lettuce hearts. hearts. lettuce Poultry mayonnaise. mayonnaise. MAYONNAISE MAyoNNATsE DE voLArrrn- - Proceed DEVOLAILLE Proceed as for Lobster mayonnaise, using cooked (usually poultry (usually cooked poultry poached chicken) cut into small slices. This mayonnaise can can also also be made with be made with the the chicken chicken jointed and skinned, especially especially when small bird when aa small bird isisused. used. Mayonnaise of of Mediterranean Mediterranean or or Dublin Dublin Bay prawns. Bay prawns. Mayonnaise MAvoNNAISE DE DE LANGOUSTINES LANGousrrNEs --- Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way as as MAYONNAISE Lobster mayonnaise, mayonnaise, using using Mediterranean Mediterranean or or Dublin Dublin Bay Lobster prawns. prawns. Mayonnaise of of aU all kinds kinds of of shellfish, shellfish, crabs, crabs, shrimps, shrimps, Mayonnaise crayfish tails, etc., can can be be made made in tails, etc., in the the same same way. way. crayfish Spiny lobster lobeter mayonnaise. mayonnaise. MAYONNAISE MAyoNNATsE DE DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -Spiny lobster slices Spiny lobster slices may be be arranged arranged on on aa bed bed of of shredded shredded Spiny lettuce and and served in their shell, served in lengthwise. shell, cut cut lengthwise. lettuce Mayonnaise of of flUets fiIleb of of sole sole ài l'ancienne I'ancienne with with aa border border of of Mayonnaise jelly. MAYONNAlSE UevoNNAISE DE FTLETS DE DE FILETS DE SOLES solEs ÀA L'ANCIENNE, L'nNrclENNE, SUR suR jelJy. BoRDURE DE os GELÉE csrm -- Poach Poach fillets fillets of of sole sole in in aa very little little BORDURE white wine. Leave them wine. Leave them to to cool. cool. Trim Trim into into rectangles. rectangles. Cover white gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. with gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. with jelly. Turn Fill aa ring ring mouJd mould with with fish fish aspic aspic jeJly. Turn itit out out onto onto aa Fil! jelly border when set. set. Fill centre of Fill the the centre of this this jelly border with with aa salad salad dish when of potatoes, artichoke artichoke hearts and diced truffies and diced dressed with with truffies dressed of gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. jelly. Arrange the fillets of sole on on top of of the the jelly.

formed of ofsmall smallreddish reddishfibres fibresenclosed enclosedininaathin These thinskin. skin.These formed fibresare groupedinto aregrouped intobundles, bundles, and andtheir theircovering coveringskin, skin, fibres thickening, forms formsthe the tendons. tendons.Certain musclesare Certain muscles aresursurthickening, roundedor orseparated separatedfrom from other other groupsby bythicker thickercoverings coverings rounded oftendon tendontissue, tissue,the themucous mucous membranes. Round muscuRoundthe themus of cular masses, masses,and andsometimes sometimesbetween betweentheir their bundles bundlesofoffibre, fibre, Jar there can can be bese deposits of quantity. offat fatvarying varying ininquantity. seen there en deposits Theconnective connective tissue whichholds holds them tissue which The them together togetherand and forms the thetendons tendons and andmuscular muscular fibres fibres isisbroken forms brokendown downinin juices. But cooking, and and then attacked by gastric juices. bythe then attacked thegastric Butthese these juices leaveintact intact the corresponding tissue thecorresponding rawmeat, meat,and tissueininraw and it isisbroken broken down down only only ininthe intestines. theintestines. Musculartissue tissue isisformed formed from from albumens albumensand Muscular andfats; fats;there there are only (exceptinin horsemeat, only traces traces of of carbohydrates carbohydrates (except are horsemeat, which isis riricher glucose than andglucose which cher inin glycogen and meat of than the themeat of animals). ItIt contains aa large other animais). proportion ofof water large proportion other water (sometimesas percent asmuch much asas70 70per centinincertain (sometimes certain cuts), cuts),minerai mineral salts, among among which phosphorus and which phosphorus salts, and Iron iron are are the most themost important, and and gelatine. important, As with with aH all albumens, muscular muscular tissue As tissue coagulates coagulates inin heat heat e (158'to from 70° 70" to from to 176'F.). to 80°e. 80"C. (I58 176'F.). Muscular ftesh Muscular flesh also also contains contains sorne somesoluble soluble substances substances called extractives, called extractives, because because they they are are found found inin the theextract extract obtained from from the obtained the evaporations evaporationsof of their their solutions. solutions. Sorne Some substances substances can can be be identified identified by by chemical chemical means,while while others others remain remain unknown. groupof unknown. They They belong belong toto the the chemical group of purines, which purines, which relates relates them them to to the the alkaloids alkaloids inincoffee, coffee, tea and teaand chocolate. They chocolate. They are are transfonned transformed by by heat heat into into aromatic aromatic subsubstances stances which which act act as as stimulants stimulants to digestivesystem, to the the digestive system, the the nervous system nervous system and and the heart. the heart. Freshness Freshness of of meal. meat. FRAîCHEUR rn.q.lcnrun DE DE LA LA VIANDE vTANDE - - Immediately Immediately after slaughter after slaughter meat meat isis slightly slightly acid, acid, because presence becauseof of the the presence of of lactic lactic acid acid in in the muscular tissue, the muscular and hard tissue, and as aa result hard as result of of stiffening stiffening in in death. death. In In this this state state itit can can be be used used for for dishes dishes that that involve For al! involve long long cooking,like pot-au-feu.For purposes all other other purposes itit must must be 'hung', (kept in a cool place for be 'hung', for aaday day or or two two according according to to the the season) for for aa certain degree degree of of decomposidecomposition place. This tion to to take take place. This isis due due to to the the action action of of soluble soluble ferferments ments which which exist muscles as exist in in the the muscles as in in al! all organic organic tissue, and tissue, and which which soften soften the fibres by the fibres by the the phenomenon of of autolysis autolysis (spontaneous decomposition). (spontaneous decomposition). This autolysis, autolysis, ifit if it isis allowed allowed to proceed to to proceed to its its extreme point extreme limits, limits, will will continue continue to to the the point of of complete complete liquefaction. liquefaction. This process must This process must not not be be confused confused with putrefaction due with the the putrefaction due to to bacteria. bacteria. The The longer itit isis hung, hung, the the more more tender meat becomes. tender the the rneat becomes. In In sorne some places, for for example example in in Vienna, Vienna, everything everything isis sacrisacrificed ficed to to tenderness, tenderness, and and meat meat isis often often hung hung for for seven seven or or eight eight days. days. Quality qunurns DES of meat. meat. QUALITÉS DEs VIANDES. vrANDEs. Variable proVariable proQuality of portions of fat fat are are found found in in different different kinds kinds of of cuts cuts of of meal. meat. It may may be be found found around around or or between between the muscular fibres the muscular fibres or or even in in the middle of them, them, and and between between the fibre, the bundlcs bundles of of fibre, in in well-nourished well-nourished animais. animals. The The choicest choicest cuts cuts always always have have sorne some fat, fat, which which isis very very desirable desirable in in cooking, cooking, but but this this should should not not be be excessive. excessive. Analyses show show that that nutritional nutritional value value in in terms terms of of calories calories tains depends chiefly on on the fat content, content, since the fat since the latter con the latter contains more calories calories than than do do albumens; albumens; but but instructions instructions based based on on su ch facts such facts should should not not be be followed followed tà td the letter, since the letter, few since few people eat very fatty people pieces, and fatty pieces, and would would normally normally leave leave them them on the side side of the plate. Meat that that is only moderately Meat moderately fat generally easier fat isis generally easier to to digest than meat with a very high high fat fat content. content. The dark meats (viandes nOires) noires) of game and of game and venison venison contain more more extractives, and en toxic contain and ev even toxic substances substances (when the animal animal has has been been hunted hunted hard the hard or or when when the flesh is very the flesh is very 'high'); they they are usually more 'high'); are usually more difficult difficult to to digest digest than than butcher's meat. meat. butcher's

MAZAGRAN-- Cold Cold or or hot hot coffee coffee served glass. in aa glass. served in MAZAGRAN The word word also also means means aa kind kind of of tartlet lined with tartlet lined with Duchess Duchess The potatoes (see POTATOES), POTATOES), filled (q.v.) or filled with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) pOlaloes (see or any any other preparation, and baked in in the the oyen. oven. other preparation, and MAZARIN (Pâtisserie) (Pfltisserie) -- Fill plain baking tin 6 to 8 cm. Fill aa plain MAZARIN (2* to 3 inches) deep with best Genoese Genoese baller batter (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Bake the the cake cake and and allow allow itit to to cool. cool. Scoop Scoop out out the middle, the middle, making aa funnel-shaped funnel-shaped cavity cavity which which does quite reach does not not quite making reach the bottom. Ice the the cone cone removed removed from from the bottom. lce the cake cake with with pale pink pink fondant icing. Fill the weil well of the the cake cake with with chopped chopped crystallised Fill the crystallised fruit fruit (angelica, candied orange and lemon peel, peel, stem ginger, etc.), \CU'5'-'11\."", stem ginger, etc.), with a little syrup, pur6e, and syrup, thick apricot apricot purée, and kirsch a !ittle kirsch added. added. jam. Coyer Spread with aapricot cake with Spread the cake pricot jam. Cover the the well well with with the iced core and decorate decorate with crystallised fruit. fruit. MEADOW-SWEET. RErNE-DES-pnns -- Plant MEADOW-SWEET. REINE-DES-PRÉS Plant whose whose tender tender leaves and flower ftower tips, tips, put put to to infuse in in wine wine or or hydromel, give give them them an an agreeable agreeable taste. tas te. They They are are used used in in making certain types of of vermouth. vermouth. Tea made from from the meadow-sweet meadow-sweet blossoms is is antispasantispasmodic, modic, diuretic diuretic and sudorific. sudorific.

MEAL. REIAS REPAS - A A grouping grouping together of various various kinds kinds of nourishment nourishment taken at a fixed and traditional time. Preparation Preparation for a a meal. MrsE MISE EN puci PLACE -- In [n large kitchens this covers all ail the the preparatory preparatory operations involved in in the cooking cooking of of a meal. meal. It is useful, useful, in a small as well as a a large establishment, to prepare prepare the the various various ingredients ingredients required required for for the the meal meal in advance, peeling peeling the the vegetables, vegetables, etc. etc. When When the small smaJ! tasks are advance, are done the the actual cooking cooking is much simplified. simplified. done MEAT. MEAT.

VIANDE - The word derives from from the the Latin vTANDE word viande derives vivenda which which meant meant that that 'which maintains main tains life,' and and was, vivendn Iike the the word word 'meat'in 'meat' in English, English, synonymous with foodstuff like in general. general. Cynegetic Cynegetic (hunting) (hunting) language, language, preserving an in archaic tradition, tradition, keeps up up this this meaning meaning in the words archaic viandis and and viapder to describe pasture pasture or or the action of viandis pasturing where where wild wild beasts beasts are are concerned. Today, the meaning is restricted restricted to to the the muscular muscular flesh ftesh of of edible edible animals. meaning When aa piece piece of of meat meat is is examined examined closely it it is is seen seen to to be be When

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MEAT CLEA CLEAVER MEAT VER (bullock, cow, adult animais animals (bullock, cow, bull, Red meats are those of adult donkey, mule); can be digested and sheep, horse, be digested sheep, horse, donkey, mule); they they can people, provided their use not abused. tolerated by most people, use is not animals are fed in which the animais fed has aa great effect on The way in the quality of the meat. the For the in dietetics. dietetics. VIANDE vIANDE EN EN DIÉTÉTIQUE odr6rteun -- For the vast Meat in Meat meat is of ail all most important of majority of Europeans, is the the most Europeans, meat majority of view and blame foods. Dieticians do do not not share this view blame meat for foods. many of our current health problems. Meat con 15 to 25 per contains cent of of protein substances; Meat tains 15 to 25 per cent protein substances; per cent variable amounts amounts of of fat fat ranging ranging from from 20 20 to 30 per variable to 30 (rabbit). Meat (pork) to less than Meat contains no cent (rabbit). than 55 per per cent (pork) to less carbohydrate, so its calorific calorific value so its carbohydrate, value is is not not very very high high (206 per 100 g.). (The calorific of wheat Hour flour is 350; calorific value ofwheat calories per calories It isis rich in mineral such as that of dried nuts over 600.) lt minerai salts 5uch but lacking in in calcium. phosphorus and iron, but and is Meat leaves little intestinal intestinal residue is liable to to cause Meat residue and constipation and and intestinal intestinal troubles. For these troubles. For these reasons, constipation recommend either aa strict vegetarian diet, diet, which dieticians recommend period of and difficult difficult period calls for for aa long of adaptation, adaptation, or or a calls long and (4 oz.) g. (4 reduction in 100 g. consumption of meat: meat: 100 in the the dady daily consumption reduction maximum for an average average adult adult. The The type meat eaten for an type of of meat maximum each person's should be chosen to suit each should be chosen to suit person 's temperament, deficiencies and and taste. deficiencies tas te. all butcher's Beef. count of ail Beel This has has the the highest highest protein count (23 to 24 per cent). meats (23 Horse meal. meat. Equivalent Eqtivalent to that of beef. bœr. Veal.Not as rich as beef. rich in in protein Veal. Not as protein as beef. Lamb, mullon. mutton. Mutton con contains tainS less protein protei.n than veal but fatter. is fatler. (on average only Pork. least protein of all (on Contains least of aU only 16 Pork. Contains particularly indigestible because of cent). Il It isis particularly of its is high per cent). fat content (more than 30 30 per cent). cent). This is is true not only of fat pork but of ail all pork butchery products. Not recommended Game. Not recommended by dieticians because of its Came. by dieticians because of (especially game that has toxicity (especially has been been hung). Tripery. Viscera and and offal (variety meats) are are not not recomrecommended dietetically. Brains, mended dietetically. Brains, for for example, example, have have aa high cholesterol count and contain much fat 50 so they are not the and contain light food food suitable for for children children and and invalids invalids that they were once considered to be. has been Meat extract. extract, sxrnnrt EXTRAIT DE DE vTANDE VIANDE -- Stock that that has Extrabts contain part concentrated by heat or in a vacuum. Extra·cts of the the extractive substances of the meat, meat, some mineral minerai salts (celery, etc.) and the same aromatic aromatic ingredients (celery, etc.) which and which give stocks their savoury taste. great many of these on sale. sale. They are aa great There arc many of these extracts on as condiments which which permit should be be regarded regarded as pennit any liquid approximately the same flavour as beef stock. to be given approximately enrich sauces, some Meat Meat glaze. gla7A'!. This is a substance used to enrich sorne stores under It is available available in soups, and ragouts. ragouts.lt in fine food stores under the or Meat various of Glace de de viande, Meat extract, or Meat various names of glaze. glaze. consommi Boil down strained rich bouillon or simple white consommé (see SOUPS it is very dark and syrupy. SOUPS and and BROTHS) BROTHS) until il Pour inLO into a small square pan and let set until very firm. Cut Glaze into small squares and store in an airtight container. Glaze will keep several months. (U.S. 3 quarts keep several quarts bouillon bouillon makes 1I cup of glaze.) of 'gravy' or 'gravy' Meat JUs DE The name Meal juice. juice. JUS DE vIANDE VIANDE - The name juice juice or properly belongs escapes from a belongs to the the liquid which escapes a piece of meat during cooking, cooking, and and which which is served with of meat dUring is served with roast meats. There There exist eXIst commercial commercial substitutes for for this this juice, juice, very ta meat extracts. eXlraCIS. similar to Meat PULPE DE vIANDE VIANDE - Describes Describes meat which has :vJeat pulp. puI,pE been say, scraped been pulped, pulped, that that is is to 1O say, scraped while raw. raw. It It has has the

paste, homogeneous pas appearance of aa homogeneous and is is uscd used for for addiappearance le, and in special diets. tional nourishment in

MEAT CLEAVER. FEUILLE -- lmplemenl Implement used used ta to split MEAT CLEAVER. FEUILLE It isis also used carcases in in half. in the used in carcases hale It the kitchen for cutting up meat for stews, stews, etc. meal (German and MEATBALLS and Austrian Austrian cookery), cookery). KLÔSSE ruossn MEA TBALLS (German are aa kind of in Austria and and Germany, kliisse klhsse are Very popular in forcemeats. They are boiled in different [orcemeats. round ball bail made made of diflèrent served with drained, and and served with browned salt water, thoroughly drained, salt water, butter and fried fried breadcrumbs poured over them. Meatballs la viennoise. KLOSSE rlossr .n re vmNuorss À LA VIENNOISE -- Dice MeatbalJs ài la (18 oz.) g. (18 Toss in in butter until oz.) sandwich bread. bread. Toss finely finely 500 500 g. pour on golden. Place few tablespoons on aa few dish and and pour tablespoons golden. in aa dish Place in boiling milk. Leave to soak. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) 175 g. in butter, oz., 1l|~ cups) butter, 175 tossed i.n finely diced lean ham ham lossed (6 oz., 5.6 in butter until onion, cooked slowly slowly in ehopped until very tender, chopped onion, and larragon. chervil and tarragon. Add chopped chervil and tablespoon chopped Add 1I and 1I tablespoon as for for an an omelette, omelette. and 33 or or 4 eggs beaten as tablespoon flour and and nutmeg. Mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Season with salt, salt, pepper pepper and Season each weighing about 50 g. into pieces mixture inlo Divide this mixture pieces each (2 oz.). and poach in the balls in in flour and oz.). Shape into balls. Dip the (2 Toss aa handful of 12 minutes. Drain. salt water salt water for for l0 10 to ta 12 Drain. Toss handful of breadcrumbs in browned butter and pour over the meatballs. breadcrumbs

(Arab cookery) MECHOLI cookery)- Arabic MÉCHOUI (Arab Arabie word word meaning animals such as roasted. roasted. Arab roasts are made with various animais gazelle, sheep, camel or lamb. gazelle, sheep, mouflon (wild sheep), young camel The animal must always be very fat. 'The cooking very specIal care, for for aa méchoui mdchoui demands very special care, cooking demands 'The it isis constantly constantly basted with melted cannot be be perfect unless il melted butter butter and roasted slowly on red hot charcoal embers, which at the must be kept at the same temperature the whole time. Care charred outside and also be must also taken that that the meat is be laken ig not charred inside. raw inside. 'A méchoui on pricking itit with is perfectly cooked cooked when, michoui is 'A when, on juice exude drops of pink exude through no drops pink juice th rough the a large needle, needle, no a puncture. Care Care must be taken that the kidneys are properly properly These are cooked. These are the the most most precious part part of the the roast. roast. A golden-brown colour colour fine golden-brown mdchoui must must be be of a a fine successful méchoui and the meat must be well weil roasted and crackling. crackling. This is how it is done: il 'Kill, skin lamb. Impale it from an eviscerate skin an eviscerate aa sucking lamb. 'Kil!, Impale il head to tail on a pointed wooden spi!. spit. shoulders to the neck with string. Stretch the legs 'Tie the shoulders out 10 binding them with a strip of to the full length of the spit, binding each end of the linen. well with salt and pepper. Rest eaeh Season weil Iinen. Season on aa lall support on on which which the spit spit spit on tall stone stone or Y-shaped support dig aa hole hole 1I m. Near the can be lurned. the spitled carcase, dig can be turned. Near spitted carcase, and 50 cm. cm. (20 inches) in depth. Light a (39 inches) in length and Ihe lamb about 50 cm. (20 inches) inches) from the wood fire. Place the fire. Rotate Rotale the spit slowly so that the whole lamb is exposed butter. baste with melted butter. to the embers. Using a brush, baste 'When il take it offthe off the spit. Lay it on a dish and it is cooked, take place it in the middle of the table. According to it in to tradition, tradition, and forks. diners must the diners must abandon abandon the the use use of of knives knives and the eaten with michoui should should be Custom requires requires that that the Ihe méchoui be eaten Custom desired. The fingers, the guests tearing as desired. learing off the flesh ftesh as The host must serve himself first and and must pluck hirnself first pluek out the kidneys to offer 10 to his guests. guests. all eaten, the servants pass round the mdchoui is ail 'When the méchoui ewer containing warm scented with warm water water scented with rose rose leaves, leaves, so ewer guests may rinse their hands. that the guests dish lies whole beauty of this 'The whole this dish lies in in the the incomparable incomparable and browned flavour of the crackling skin and browned flesh. flesh. So that it it so much may may lose lose none none of the the delicacy delicacy which which makes makes it it so dismembered speedily dismembered sought-after by sought-after by gourmets, it il must be speedily as soon as as it appears on the Ihe table. Ifit lf it is left to ta get cold, the s82 582

MELON skin, skin, firm finn and and crackling crackling at at the the outset, outset, grows grows soft very very quickly. quickly . One One should should therefore therefore never never forget forget to to provide provide the the guest wi th hot hot plates pla tes for for aa michouL méchoui. guest with 'In 'In different different regions regions of of Morocco Morocco and and Tunisia, Tunisia, the michoui méchoui differs differs only in in the the method method of of cooking. cooking. It It is braised braised in a glazed earthenware oven.' oven.' (L. (L. Isnard, Isnard, L'Afrique L'Afrique gourmande.) gourmande.) glazed earthenware

MELISSA. MELISSA. ufussrMÉLISSE - Plant Plant of of Mediterranean Mediterranean origin, known known also green, slightly also as as lemon lemon balm. balm. It It has has oblong, oblong, light Iight green, slightly velvety leaves, and smells rather like lemon.

MEDALLION. MEDALLION. ufollI.r,oN MÉDAILLON -- This is a name name applied applied to to various various foodstuffs foodstuffs which which must, must, by by definition, definition, be be cut cut in in the the shape of round round or or oval oval medallions. medallions. shape of

The The word word is is synonymous synonymous with with tournedos tournedos (q.v.) (q .v.) when when applied beef, with ofbeef, with collops collops (q.v.) (q.v.) when when applied applied to to small small cuts cuts of to of mutton, mutton, veal veal or large large poultry. poultry. The term tenn is is exexto slices slices of tended tended to to designate designa te slices slices of/oregras of foie gras served hot hot or or cold. cold. Medalliore MedallioDS of of anchovy anchovy ià la la nigoiseniçoise - See See ANCHOVY. ANCHOVY. Medalliore MedaJlions of of lamb lamb -- See See LAMB. LAMB.

Medlars Medlars

MEDLAR. Ntrrp NÈFLE -- The The fruit fruit of of the the medlar medlar tree, aa rosaceous rosaceous MEDLAR. plant" plant, which which grows grows wild wild in in all ail the the temperate temperate regions regions of of Europe . Europe. The medlar medlar is is aa very very tart tart fruit fruit which which can can only only be be eaten eaten The when it it is is thoroughly thoroughly ripe ripe and and soft. soft. It It has has then then quite quite aa when pleasant pleasant flavour ftavour of of wine. wine.

Melissa Melissa

-

Melissa cordial. cordial. EAU EAU DE DE rra6rnsr MÉLISSE - Spirit Melissa Spirit distilled distilled from best-known melissa melissa. cordial is that of Carmes, Carmes, melissa. The best-known melissa.

MÉDOC -- Wine-producing Wine-producing region region of of Bordeaux Bordeaux situated on on MfDOC

made by infusion of spirits of kidney vetch and and spirits spirits of melissa. melissa. melissa blossoms blossoms Fresh melissa 900 g. (2 lb.) of fresh lemons lem ons Zest of 150 g. (5 oz.) cinna mon oz .) Ceylon cinnamon 80 g. (3 oz.) Cloves 80 g. (3 oz.) oz .) Cloves Nutmeg 80 Nutmeg 80 g. (3 oz.) Coriander 40 g. (l! (r| oz.) a0 Coriander Angelica roots g. (l! (rl oz.) Angelica 40 s. Alcohol (80") (80°) 5000 (Il lb.) Alcohol 5000 g. (11 crush the various ingredients. Put them with the Slit or crush alcohol in in the the steam steam chamber chamber of a a distilling distilling apparatus. alcohol Leave to to infuse for 4 days in aa cool place, then then distil. Leave Melissa. leaves placed on on meat keep keep away flies tlies and other Melissa insects. insects.

banks of of the the Garonne Garonne and and Gironde, Gironde, stretching stretching from the left left banks the Blanquefort to to Graves. Graves. It It is is subdivided subdivided into two two regions: regions: Blanquefort Bas M6doc Médoc in in the the north north and and Haut Haut M6doc Médoc in in the the south. Bas The best best wines wines come come from from the the latter. latter. The following following comThe of Haut Haut M6doc Médoc have have been been given given aa special special appellation: appellation: munes of munes Moulis, Listrac, Listrac, Margaux, Margaux, Saint-Julien, Saint-Julien, Pauillac, Pauillac, and SaintMoulis, Estèphe. Estdphe. Médoc wines wines have have aa character character of of their their own, distinguished distinguished M6doc bya slight tartness tartness (quite (quite unlike unlike that that of of any any other other wine), wine), by by by a slight their delicacy, delicacy, aroma, aroma, smoothness, smoothness, and and a bouquet bouquet that that imimtheir proves with with age. age. proves They are are full full bodied bodied without without being being highly highly intoxicating. intoxicating. They When young, young, they they are are of of aa beautiful beautifuJ garnet gamet colour colour which which When changes to to burnt bumt ruby ruby with with maturity. maturity. (See (See BORDEAUX.) changes MEHLSUPPE (German (German cookery) cookery) -- For For this this soup soup made made MEHLSLJPPE from flour, t'lour, known known also also as as sweet-and-sour sweet-and-sour soup, soup, see see SOUPS SOUPS from AND BROTHS. BROTHS. AND

MELON -- Fruit of a number of herbaceous herbaceous plants, it is of MELON Asian origin origin and and was was first first transplanted transplanted to to Italy, Italy, then then to Asian France, well well before the the sixteenth century. century. The melon was The melon known in early early times and was much much prized Greeks pized by the Greeks and Romans. eaten raw and in its natural state, state, either at the Melon is eaten the of the the meal meal as as an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or at the end, as beginning of beginning as aa fruit.

MELBA -- See See GARNISHES. GARNISHES. MELBA

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MÉLILOT - Fragrant Fragrant herb herb which, which, in in country districts, is is nnEl,ff,Of used to to stuffa stuffa freshly freshly killed killed rabbit rabbit to to flavour ftavour the the meat. meat. used The dried dried leaves leaves and and flowers flowers are are used used to to flavour t'lavour marinades marinades The and stews. stews. ItIt is is also also used used in in the the making making of of Gruyire Gruyère cheese. cheese. and 583 583

MELON DE MALABAR for lced as indicated melon (see cantaloup melon aa large large cantaloup melon as indicated for /ced melon various fruits fruits in below). Dice Dice the the scooped-out pulp. pulp. Add Add various below). season: pineapple, apricots, peaches, peaches, pears, cherries, plums, grapes, etc., into pieces, apples, grapes, etc., cut cut into oranges, bananas, apples, pieces, oranges, bananas, and moisten moisten with coarsely diced diced or or stoned. stoned. Add sugar, and coarsely Add sugar, any liqueur, liqueur, as as for Fruit salad salad (see or any for Fruit kirsch, maraschino or kirsch, FRUrT). FRUIT). in aa large large bowl mixture. Put itit in Fill the the melon with this this mixture. Fill melon with filled ice. Leave Leave to with crushed crushed ice. to chill thoroughly before filled with serving. serving. In high-grade high-grade inMELoN CONFIT coNFIr -- In Crystallised melon. melon. MELON Crystallised dustrial confectionery, confectionery, whole melons are crystallised in their dustrial rind. melons can be crystallised in in slices In household kitchens, melons or cubes. melon which is not cantaloup melon Cut into slices of equal size a cantaloup remove over ripe. Skin the slices and rem over ove the seeds. Put in aa bowl few in the sugar for a few and sprinkle with sugar. Leave to steep in melon in cold water water and the juice. Put the melon hours. Drain. Keep thejuice. leave overnight. overnight. juice into pan. Add enough into aa pan. enough day pour the the melon juice Next day 14' as of 14° water and and sugar to make aa syrup with with aa density of water sugar to measured on aa saccharometer. saccharometer. Put the slices of melon in this covered with with its and boil Leave the the melon, melon, covered syrup boil them. them. Leave syrup and an earthenware bowl, to stand overnight. Next day, syrup in an pieces of melon, care so as out with care so as melon, taking taking them out drain drain the the pieces 16" reduced to to 16° not to Boil the the syrup until not to break them. them. Boil until it isis reduced melon. Repeat pour over Repeat this this operation density and pour over the the melon. density and reaches time until until itit reaches several times, the syrup syrup each each time times, reducing the process is this process In French French confectionery confectionery this aa density density of of 32°. 32". In called called façon. fagon. number of When has undergone undergone the the required number When the the melon has in aa very dry place. façons, drain and dry it. it. Keep in fagons, be weil well NATUREL -- Melon should should be Fresh melon. MELON MELoN AU AU NATUREL possible, leave it If possible, it on on ice ice for for 11 or 2 chilled chilled before serving. serving. If hours. as an an hors-d' hors-d'euvre, If melon is œu vre, each guest will is to be served served as pepper, or or with with fine with salt, it himself with salt, sometimes pepper, season season it ginger. When melon It can also be spiced with ground ginger. sugar. It ifit is fragrant fragrant and rich in flavour, serve is served dessert, ifit served as aa dessert, fine sugar. it plain or with fine not be must not be sliced sliced in corn with other other fruit, fruit, must Melon, mon with Melon, in common eating, aa for slicing or eating, an ordinary steel slicing or with an steel knife. Whether for knife or or aa silver silver spoon spoon steel knife silver, or stainless steel silver, silver-plated or should be used. round the rind round MELoN GLACÉ crlc6 -- Cut aa circle circle of of rind Iced melon. MELON melon. Scoop Scoop out out the the pulp, large cantaloup cantaloup melon. stem of aa large stem of rind. on the rind. leaving only aa thin thin layer on (see ICE CREAMS With the the pulp (see Make Make aa melon ice cream with with the melon rind with ICES). Just before fill the melon AND AND ICES). before serving, serving, fill ice cream. as for for Apricot DE MELON MELoN -- Proceed as Melon jam. CONFITURE coNrIruRE DE jam (see (see JAMS). JAMS). pickled in AU VINAIGRE vINATcRE -MELoN CONFIT coNFIr AU Melon Melon pickled in vinegar. vinegar. MELON of equal equal melons. Cut Choose very ripe melons. Cut into pieces of Choose small, small, not very (see vinegar (see proceed as as for for Gherkins in vinegar thickness, and proceed Gherkins in thickness, and GHERKIN). GHERKTN). gherkins, as as way as as gherkins, Melon is used in the the same Melon in in vinegar vinegar is used in same way and co cold an Id meat. to boiled meat and an accompaniment accompaniment to generally used. large green melons The rind rind of of large are generally used. The Smali melons are Small green outer pickled in way. Remove Remove the the outer in the same way. melons melons can can be be pickled the same skin only, and and dice. dice.

Melon Melon

As an it is an nors-a nors-ct œuvre is often As euvre it often seasoned with salt and seasoned with salt and ginger. As spiced with with ginger. As aa dessert it is is sprinkled with with sugar, great many many connoisseurs though that the though aa great connoisseurs consider that the only pepper added. admissible seasoning is salt, often with pepper To choose aa melon, tap it lightly to discover wh ether it is whether well fleshed or hollow. Look to to see has round its see whether it has 'crown'which which indicates that the melon is perfectly stem that that 'crown' ripe and whether or not it is sweet. Chilled melon with Frontignan wine. MELON MELoN RAFRAÎCID n.c,rnAlcril AU lu FRONTIGNAN FRoNTIGNAN -- Take Take aa large large cantaloup cantaloup melon. melon. Make Make a circular circular incision incision round the stem. Remove Remove the the top and scoop out full of crushed Put the melon in in aa bowl bowl full out the the seeds. Put crushed ice. (3 tablepoons) sugar Sprinkle the inside with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 and and pour into it 2i 2j dl. dl. (scant ij pint, generous cup) Frontignan nan wine or any any other other dessert wine. wine. Replace Replace the top of the the top melon and and leave to chili full of chill thoroughly. Serve Serve in aa bowl bowl full of crushed ice. prepared in pulp . Melon prepared in this way is not cut into slices. slices. The pulp is scooped out with aa large silver spoon. grenache, Madeira, Chilled can be Chilled melon can be flavoured with grenache, Marsala, muscatel, muscatel, port, sherry, sherry, tokay, tokay, etc. Chilled melon en surprise surprise or or melon ài la la parisienne. MELON MELoN peRrsrnNNr) - Scoop out (urroN ÀA LA RAFRAîcHI n.q.rR.a,lcm EN EN SURPRISE suRpRrsE (MELON r^q, PARISIENNE) out -

given in Name in France France to MELON ame given MELON DE DE MALABAR -- N to the the pumpkin. It It isis cooked in the way as as ordinary Siamese cooked in the same same way ordinary Siamese pumpkin. pumpkin (q.v.).

(Larousse) Chilled melon en en surprise surprise (Larousse)

(q.v.). MELONGÈNE MELONGENE -- French French name name for for the aubergine (q.v.). the aubergine 5l s84

MENU MENU flan Cream flan Gohiire Gohière Waffies pies Pear pies Clove aapples pples in mead Pears in Pears Sartelles pears Sartelles Angelots Angelots cream Morbecque cream Green walnuts Green Fresh fruit Ample jelly Amplejelly Cheese Cheese

melting MELTING MELTlNG HOUSE. FoNDoIR-This FONDOIR - This is where the mel ting of fats and tallow from slaughter houses takes place.

made of dessert made MENDIA.~TS - Common Common name name for for aa dessert MENDIANTS almonds, figs, hazelnuts hazelnuts and raisins, raisins, whose colours recall the dress of the four Roman Catholic mendicant Orders. MENTONNAISE (A LA) - Method of cooking certain food-

stuffs, especially especially rock-pool rm:K-OOllJl fish. The characteristic ingredients stuffs, are tomatoes, tomatoes, black olives and garlic are

seasoning. (See

GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.)

in a is written, in MENU -- A sheet of paper or card on which is MENU which are are to specific order, all the dishes wruch to be specific order, the names of ail served in succession at aa given meal. The idea of providing a 'bill of fare', wruch in old old French which in called an escriteau, is not new. was called Here, for instance, served on instance, is a list of dishes which were served master ter of and mas the occasion occasion of the marriage of aa counsellor and Coun ting House in in 1571. 1571. This This curious document, prethe Counting served in the archives Northern département dhpartemefi of of France, France, archives of of the Northem served ti tled : is en entitled: 'Bill 'Bill of fare for Master Baulde of Master nuptial supper for the the nuptial supper of of fare Cuvillon.' Cuvillon.'

found in in the kind are are to to be be found the menus of of this this kind A great many menus no most of of them them are are no but most large French French towns, towns, but archives of of large in buying the money spent spent in buying the accounts of of the the money more than than the the accounts more great feasts. feasts. food to to be served food served at great menus, working menus, escriteaux were were working fare' and and escriteaux The' 'bills of The''bills of fare' royal or or of aa royal kitchen staff staff of instructions to indicate to to the the kitchen instructions to indicate which the various courses courses princely household in which the various princely household the the order order in great dinner. dinner. another at ata one another should a great should succeed succeed one come not come know itit today today did did not menu as as we we know The The individual individual menu at the the time time or of the the nineteenth century, century, at early nineteenth into use use until the early in the the celebrated celebrated France, appearing in first first Restoration Restoration in in France, was the at that time was the that time restaurants restaurants of the Palais-Royal, which at of the at the the gastronomic centre was customary to to show show at gastronomie Paris. It was centre of of Paris. names of posters on of which were were inscribed the the names on which door enormous enormous posters of these the dishes establishment. One One or or two two ofthese dishes provided by the the establishment. poster-menus have notably that of the poster-menus have come come down down to to us, us, notably that of the celebrated most celebrated ancient ancient Rocher Rocher de de Cancale, Cancale, one one of of the the most famous Hote! Hotel restaurants and that of the equally famous restaurants of that of the equally of the time, time, and des des Américains. Amdricains. every effort into being, effort As individual menus menus came came into being, every As soon as individual soon as The greatest was and elaborate. was made to make them artistic and elaborate. The to make them artistic artists illustrate artists did consider itit beneath beneath their their dignity dignity to to l1Hlstrat~ not consider did not little cards them hands, and and these cards were were afterafterwith their own hands, these Iittle their own them with tors and wards very at very collectors and bought bought at wards much much sought after by by collee sought after high prices. less artistic, artistic, were were also also menus, though though less Other individual individual menus, plain cards, sought cards, hand on by hand on plain out by by collectors. collectors. Written Written out sought by they historic. meals which which have have become become historie. they recorded recorded meals Sixteenth from aa This menu menu isis taken taken from Sixteenth century century menu menu - This mémoire an escriteau escriteau for for aa banquet. mimoire on of an on the the preparation of la Quesat Capons pdlerins Ragofrts. Woodcock àd la Quesal - Capons Rabbit with turnips venison with turnips Rabbit roebuck - Civet Civet of of venison Stuffed roebuck àd la grenade -- Lion Goslings capon -- Stuffed Stuffed birds birds -- Goslings Lion of white capon la grenade of white with Partidge h tonnelelle tonnelette -- Partridge Partridge àd la with Milanese Milanese cheese cheese -- Partridge àd l'orange Wood pigeon en with capers - Wood I'orange - Partridge with poivrade - Soleil poivrade-- Pickled Soleil of white capon-Venison with Pickled tealjelly, decorated, tumips moulded decorated, shredded, moulded White jelly, turnips - White jelly -- Quails 'hittprlin,~c in jelly -- Jelly Orissut in in jelly angelots -- Orissan in jelly Jelly angelots Chitterlings Quails with Roebuck with Milanese Milanese cheese cheese -- Roebuck Roebuck with with bay bay leaves -- Roebuck head frumenty - Sheep's Sheep's tongues d h vinai head -- Salt venison frumenty Salt venison grette wine grette - Mock in Malmsey wine hedgehog - Goslings Goslings in Mock hedgehog Peacocks lied trotters with sturgeonDevilled sturgeon trotters with in their feathers -- Devi Peacocks in their feathers Spring Veal with chestnuts chestnuts - Veal Boar with in vinegar - Boar Spring chickens chickens in jelly, plain and sausages and Amber jelly, Tench àd la la lombarde Amber sausages - Tench fancy fountain. Jelly 'V'LUL<~I". Jelly escutcheon escutcheon -- Jelly fancy -- Jelly Jelly shield shield -- Jelly Roasts. Herons - Young Young Bitterns - Capons Capons - Herons Larks - Bitterns Roasts. Larks rabbits Boar-Doves Plovers -- Boar-Doves Partridge -- Plovers rabbits -- Side Side of of beef beef -- Partridge Woodcock Rabbit Roebuck - Pheasant Pheasant - Rabbit Woodcock - Quail - Roebuck Teal. Chickens -- Teal. Young pigeons -- Chickens Young hare - Goslings -- Young Pickled Hop shoots -- Olives Olives -- Pickled White - Green - Hop Salads. White purslane Lettuces -- Samprure Samphire purslane -- Lemon Lemon -- Pomegranate Pomegranate -- Lettuces Bon-Chrétien pear. Bon-Chritien pear. Mainz ham Final artichokes, ham -- Pies Pies of of artichokes, Final courses. courses. Saveloys Saveloys --Maim capon, hot Small hot feet, teal teal - Small feet, sheep's sheep's feet, capon, ox ox tongue, tongue, ox ox feet,

FIRST COURSE COURSE

Salads of various kinds prinsel with parsley and vinegar (savoury preserves) Flesh of ofprinsel Mutton broth Fricassée Fricassie of gosling Spring chickens with spinach Cold Cold saille Pigeons àd la Ia Trimoulette Roast Roast joint of mutton Roast breast of veal SmaJI Small pastries with hot sauce Roast roebuck Dainty pdtd Spring chickens in aspic Sweetened mustard SECOND COURSE

Venison broth Roast capon Orange salad Roast pheasants Roast ph,eas,ants Roast rabbits Roast spring chickens, larded chickens, sorne others larded some stuffed, stuffed, others Chériots Chiriots Roast quails quails Roast Roast crousets crousets Smoked gues Smoked ton tongues Boulogne Boulogne sausages sausages Pheasant pies Pheasantpfes Meaux ham pies ham pies Crousets pies Crousets pies Turkey peacock pie pie Turkey or or peacock Venison pie Venison pie Leg of lamb daube of lamb daube Capon in in aspic aspic Roast swan swan Sweetened mustard Sweetened mustard Olives Olives

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DESSERT DESSERT

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Mousse Mousse tart tart Apple Apple tart tart Chervil Chervil tart tart Jam Jam tart tart

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MENU choux cucumbers -- Rosemary choux pastries pastries -- Rissoles -- Pickled cucumbers snow -- Rosemary cream -- Apples au gatelin Apples au gatelin - Etrier Etrier of plums Tarts, old plums -- Tarts, old style, style, with with cream, beef bone-marrow, bone-marrow, joyeux -- Boar's head -- Pies plums -- Cream g0teau gâteau -- Gdtem Gâteaujoyeux d with woodcock, ci la la tonnelette tonnelelle with woodcock, quince, Quince, chestnuts, chestnuts, apples, appJes, chickens -- Venison Venison pies pies -- Cheese Cheese tarts tarts -- Asparagus Asparagus -Blancmange - Frumenty cream of apples cream -- Baudrier Baudrier of apples -Fritters -- Tarte Tarte d'Angleterre Tarte angoulousie angoulousée -- Tarte d'Angleterre -- Tarte Chopped apple apple tart -- White White wine wine tart -- Flaky fanaïde -- Chopped fanatde pastry - Italian Italian gdteau. gâteau. Seventeenth century century menu - Under Louis Louis XIV, the menus menus were magnificent. magnificent. Here Here is is the the menu of the the dinner offered oflered by by Madame Madame la Chanceli6re Chancelière to Louis XIV in 1656 in her Chdteau Château of Pontchartrain. chartrain. First course. Firs{ course. Eight Eight potted potted meats meats and and vegetables vegetables and sixteen sixteen hot hot hors-d'auvre. hors-d'œuvre. Second course. Eight Eight important important intermediate intermediate dishes called called broths. broths, Sixteen Sixteen entries entrées of of fine meats. Third course. Third course. Eight roast roast dishes dishes and and sixteen sixteen vegetable vegetable dishes cooked in meat stock. Fourth course. Eight pies or cold meat meat and fish dishes and sixteen raw salads, with oil, cream and butter. butter. Fifth Fi/th and and last last course. course. Twenty-four Twenty-four different different kinds kinds of pa.stries pastries -- twenty-four twenty-four jars jars of raw fruit -- twenty-four dishes of of sweetmeats sweetmeats -- preserves, dried and in syrup syrup and jams. jams. There were, in all, ail, 168 garnished dishes, not counting counting the various various foodstuffs foodstuffs served as dessert. Eighteenth century menu menu -- Here Here is is the the menu menu of a a meal meal which which Marshal the the Duke Duke de de Richelieu Richelieu offered otfered to all ail the princes princes and princesses princesses and the the members mem bers of of their courts taken Laken prisoner by by him him during during the the Hanoverian Hanovcrian war. war. President H6nault Hénault tells tells us us how the the menu for this memorable supper supper was drafted drafted by the the Duke Duke de Richelieu himself. Its peculiarity lay Jay in the the fact that it was made up entirely of one one kind kind of meat, meat, beef, because, on that that particular particular day, there there was was little little in the Marshal's Marshal's larder. larder. 'My 'My lord,' lord,' said Rullidres Rullières to the Marshal, MarshaL 'there is nothing in the kitchens kitchens except except a carcase of of beefand beef and a few roots .... .'" 'Very 'Very good,' good,' said said the the Marshal, Marshal, 'that 'Ihat is is more more than than is needed needed to to provide provide the prettiest prettiest supper supper in the world.' 'But, 'Dut, my lord, it would would be be impossible. impossible ... .' 'Come, Rullidres, Rullières, calm yoursell yourself, and write out the menu menu that that Il am about about to dictate to ta you.' you.' And And the the Marshal, Marshal, seeing seeing Rullidres Rullieres more more and more more alarmed, took took the the pen pen out of his hand and, seated in in his secretary's sccretary's place, place, wrote wrote the the following menu menu which, later, was brought into the the collection collection of of Monsieur de la Popelinidre. Popelinière.

marrow) with marrow) -- Endive salad with ox tongue tongue *- Beef Beef rià la mode with white white jelly je Il y mixed with pistachio pistachio nutsnuts - Cold beef beef gAteau gâteau with blood bJood and Jurangon Jurançon wine. (Don't (Don't make make a mistake!) mistake!) Six SLX final final dishes: dishes: Glazed Glazed turnips with with the the gravy gravy of the roast roast -- Beef Beef bone-marrow bone-marrow pie with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and candy sugar -- Beef stock aspic aspic with with lemon lemon rind rind and and pralines -(beef) and Pur6e Purée of of artichoke hearts with with stock stock (beef) and almond milk -- Fritters of Seville orange of beef beef brain brain steeped steeped in Seville orange juice juiceBeef Beef jelly jelly with Alicante Alicante wine and Verdun mirabelles. jams To follow, all ail that is left lcft in the way of of jams or preserves.' preserves.' And, A nd, as as a a coda to this majestic menu (which we shouJd should like its period, although some Iike to to regard regard as authentic authenlic and of ofits although in sorne respects it strikes strikcs us as somewhat somewhat odd), the Marshal Marshal added: 'If 'If by any unhappy chance, this meal turns tums out not to be very good, Il shall shaU withhold withhold from from the wages of Maret and Roqueldre Roquelère (his maitre-d'h|tel maÎtre-d'hôtel and master chef, no doubt) a fine of 100 pistols. pistaIs. Go, and entertain en tertain no more doubts! doubts! Signed: RICHELIEU' RICHELIEU' This menu, strange as as its composition composition may seem, is perfectly fecùy orthodox. orthodox. Structurally, Structurally, it obeys obeys all ail the rules rules which were in force at at this period concerning the organisation organisation of important portant meals. Nineteenth Nineteentb century menu -- Here is a a menu menu of a a historic dinner, dinner, known known as the dinner dinner of of the 'Three Emperors', Emperors', served on 7 June 1867, at al the Ihe Caf6 Café Anglais, Anglais, which no no longer exists. Among Among the the illustrious illustrious guests guests who who attended attended were were Alexander Alexander ll, Il, Czar of all an the the Russias, the Czarevich (the future Alexander III) III) and the King of Prussia who afterwards afterwards became became Emperor William William I. l. the Emperor This dinner. dinner, it is said. said, cost co st 400 400 francs francs a head.

SUPPER SUPPER MENU

Duckling d à la rouennaise rouennaise Duckling Canapis of bunting Canapés of

MENU MENU SOUPS SOUPS

Impiratrice Impératrice -- Fontanges INTERMEDIATE INTERMEDJATE COURSE COURSE Soufl6 Souffié d à la Reine Reine Fillet Fillet of of sole ri à la vinitienne vénitienne Collops Collops of of turbot turbot au au gratin Saddle of of mutton mutton with Breton Breton pur6e puree

rNrn6Es ENTREES Chickens Chickens d à la la portugaise portugaise quail pdti Hot quai! pâté Lobster Lobster d à la la parisienne parisienne Champagne Champagne Sherbets Sherbets

n6rs RÔTS

Centrepiece Centrepiece The The large large silver-gilt silver-gjlt salver salver with with the the equestrian equestrian figure of of the the King, the the statues statues of of Du Du Guesclin, Dunois, Dunois, Bayard, Bayard, Turenne. Turenne. My silver-gilt plate plate with the the arms arms embossed and enamelled. enamelled. First Firs{ course. Tureen: Tureen: A A tureen tureen of of garbure garhure gratinie, gratinée, made made of of beef beef consomm6. consommé, Folur Four hors-d'euvre: hors-d'œuvre: Palate Palate of of beef beef d à la Sainte-MenehouldSainte-MenehouldLittle Little pies pies of chopped fillet fiHet of beef with with chives chives - Kidneys Kidneys with with fried fried onion onion - Tripe Tripe d à la la poulette pOli/elle with lemon lemon juice. juice. To To follow follow the the broth: broth: Rump Rump of beef beef garnished garnished with root root vegetables vegetables in in the the meat meat juices. juices. (Trim (Trim these these vegetables vegetables into into grotesque grotesque shapes shapes on account of of the the Germans.) Germans.) Sx Six entries; entrees: Oxtail Ox tail with wi th chestnut chestn ut pur6e purée -- Civet Civet of of tongue tongue dà Ia la bourguignonne bourguignonne -- Paupiettes Paupie/les of beef beef d à I'estouffade l'estouffade with pickled pickled nasturium nasturium buds buds -- Fillet Fille! of of beef beef braised braised with celery celery -Beef rissoles with with hazelnut hazelnut pur6e puree -- Beef Beef marrow marrow on toast. Beef rissoles Second course. course, Roast RoaSI sirloin (baste (baste itit with with melted melted bonebone-

FINAL F1NAL COURSE COURSE Aubergines espagnole Aubergines dà l'l'espagnole Asparagus Asparagus Casso leI/es princesse princesse Cassolettes Iced bombe Fruit WINES W1NES

Maddre Madère retour retour des des Indes. Indes, 1846 1846 Sherry l82l 1821 Ch0teau-Yqem Château-Yqem 1847 1847 1846 Chambertin 1846 Ch6teau-Margaux Château-Margaux 1847 1847 ChAteau-Latour Château-Latour 1847 1847 Chflteau-Lafite Château-Lafite 1848 1848 586 586

MERINGUE MERINGUE Roast turkey turkey with chestnut pur6e purée Salad of tender vine leaves leaves with nut oil Goats' Goats' milk cheese Prune tart stuffed stutfed with marzipan marzipan Fruit

Composition of of a banquet banquet menu menu -- Generally Generally speaking, the Composition menu of of a great great banquet banquet should be be made up up as follows: menu A soup. soup. Often Often for for an an important important dinner two two soups soups are A one thick. thick. served, one one clear c1ear and one served, Hot hors-d'euvre.This hors-d'œuvre. This type type of of dish dish is is more more often than not Hot omitted at at great great dinners. dinners. omitted Cold hors-d'euvre.In hors-d'œuvre. In former former times, times, these were obligatory Cold at great dinners. dinners. They are are now now no no longer longer served served in in the at evening, but but only only at luncheons luncheons at the beginning beginning of of the meal. meal. evening, Intermediate fish fish courses. courses. These consist as a rule of large large Intermediate garnishes and sauces, sauces, or fish braised braised and served with various garnishes poached, with special sauces served separately. separately. poached, meat, poultry or game game courses. courses. Usually the Intermediate meat, intermediate course consists consists of a a large cut cut of meat meat (beef, intermediate mutton or or lamb), lamb), roast roast or or braised braised and and garnished garnished with mutton vegeta bles. vegetables. commonly, a large bird is served served as an interrnediate an intermediate Less commonly, purpose. lItt course. A cut ofvenison of venison can also be used for this purpose. course. purée and venison should be served with chestnut pur6e and aa special venison sauce . Very rarely, winged game is served as an intermediate intermediate sauce. course. Usually Usually it is presented as an entrée r6t. entrie or rôt. course. A large large number number of Entrées. A can be be served of dishes dishes can served as Entdes. entrées . entries. an important dinner, dinner, there To ensure efficient service at an should be not more more than one entie, and this should should be chosen one entrée, should be from among those which are easy to serve. Very seldom, seldom, in a well-planned menu, menu, is ch is aa cold cold dish dish su such as aspic, chaud-froid, mousse, mousse, mould, mould, pdtd pâté de foie gras, de foie as aspic, galantine of chic ken, etc., dishes as an an entrée. entrd:e. These disbes etc., served served as chicken, rdls. properly in the category of cold rôts. belong more properly Rôt. This poultry or winged game. Less Less comwinged game. Rdt. This is is usually poultry monly, aa cut ofvenison r6t. Even more rare/y rarely,, as aa rôt. served as of venison is served roast red rib or as fiUet, fillet, rib or sirloin. sirloin. This red meat meat is is served, such such as rule holds not only for large dinners but also where also for those those where there guests. Such cuts should Such cuts should are only there are only aa small number of guests. only be served where the rdts at at intimate dinners dinners where the laws as rôts only be served as governing the menu may be be transgressed transgressed.. the composition composition of aa menu At the family table permitted. full licence isis perrnitted. table full To follow, or even r6t, there be aa there must be even to be served served with the rôt, salad. to keep keep to to plain At aa large large dinner is advisable advisable to dinner itit is salad. At salads, may also also be saison, but aa composite salad salad may en saison, salads, salade en served are to be found found under Recipes for these salads salads are to be served.. Recipes for these SALAD. Cold given to hot after the rdt. Name given dish served the hot cold dish Cold rôt. to aa cold served after rôt. pdti de gras with with rdt. The r6t isis usually either aa pâté de foie The cold cold rôt usually either foie gras truffies gras in not be in aspic. aspic. Salad Salad should should not be served served truffies or or aa foie foie gras with with this delicate dish. dish. this delicate The as cold Spiny rdts: Spiny may also also be be served cold rôts: The following following may served as lobster parisienne or prepared en russe; or àd lala russe; lobster prepared en bellevue, bellevue, àd la la parisienne jelly with aa border mousses or or of various various shellfisb; shellfish; mousses border of of slices slices of moulds gras or galantines of ham; galantines various types of moulds of of various types of of foie or ham; foie gras poultry ; freshwater game; poultry or en freshwater crayfish crayfish served served en winged game or winged buisson poultry dishes meat or or poultry dishes fish, meat and most most of of the the cold cold fish, buisson;; and given given in in this this book book.. Entremets. In former not only the only the Entremets.In term covered covered not former times times this this tenu vegetable roast, but but also also the the after the the roast, vegetable side dishes served served after side dishes various nowadays forrn form the the dessert. dessert. various sweets which nowadays sweets which In procedure isis to after, In France to serve serve the the sweet sweet after, France the correct procedure the correct not not before, before, the cheese. the cheese. The Larousse retained from from the first edition edition of of Larousse The above above text is retained the first text is for (and amusement) Modern banquets banquets are are value. Modern amusement) value. for its its interest interest (and na turally less te . less copious and much much less less elabora elaborate. naturally copious and Here of the the confrèrie confrdrie Here isis the of aa solemn chapter of menu of the menu solemn chapter Chantepleure (1951): Vouvray (1951): de Vouvray Chantepleure de Gargamelle cocktail snacks Gargamelle cocktail snacks Pike vouvrillonne Loire valley valley àd lala vouvrillonne Pike of of the the Loire Grilled wine roots roots cooked over over wine Grilled andouille andouille cooked Perles (special pastry) pies pastry) pies Perles du du tuffeau tuffeau (special

MEOT DAYS. MÉOT - See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DA YS. grown in in the MERCUREY MERCUREY - This wine, made from grapes grown Sa6ne-et-Loire district, district, is commune commune of of Mercurey in in the the Saône-et-Loire slopes. classified classified as a first growth of the Chalon slopes. little It is similar of the Beaune slopes, but is a little similar to the wines of less sweet. (See BURGUNDY BURGUNDY.).)

in France cardine cardine or MtRE SOL,E -- Fish, Fish, also also called called in MÈRE DE SOLE (q.v.). plaice (q as plaice limandelle.It the same way as Iimandelle. It is is cooked in the .v.).

juice extracted made from extracted MDRE GOUTTE Wine made from the the juice GOUTTE -- Wine MÈRE and before they from tbe the grapes when they are first crushed, and are put in the press. (Arab cookery) -- Name served with the sauce MERGA (Arab sauce served MERGA Name of the (q.v.). It cooking stock It isis made made from from the the cooking stock of of the couscous (q.v.). couscous either mild mild and can can be made either served with the couscous, and meat served pepper. with red red pepper. is spiced spiced with or strong. Strong merga is pdtisserie made made from from egg egg white white and and MERINGUE -- Small Small pâtisserie MERINGUE sugar. pdtisserie was little pâtisserie was Historians of that tbis this Iittle of cookery cookery say say that Historians 1720 by called Gasparini, Gasparini, n 1720 by aa Swiss Swiss pastry-cook called invented in practised rus in the his art in Mehrinyghen, Mehrinyghen, aa small town in the who practised art in small town who Saxe-Coburg-Gotha. State of Saxe-Coburg-Gotba. in France France were were served in Nancy first meringues meringues made in served in The first The prized them highly. It It was was is said, them highly. said, prized to to King Stanislas who, itit is gave the recipe for for this this sweetmeat sweetmeat to to no doubt, who gave the recipe he, no doubq who he, great liking liking had aa great Marie Leczinska. Marie-Antoinette had Marie Leczinska. Queen Queen Marie-Antoinette lore has made them with ber her for meringues. meringues. Court has it it that that she she made them with for Court lore vacherins, where she also made made vacherins, hands at at the Trianon, where she also own own hands the Trianon, mixture isis used. used. for for which which aa similar similar mixture nineteenth century, centuryo meringues meringues the nineteenth Up to the the beginning of of the Up to pastry forcing-bag forcing-bag had had not not as the the pastry were shaped in aa spoon, were shaped in spoon, as yet been yet invented.. been invented (18 oz., g. (18 2f cups) 12 egg whites, 500 500 g. oz., 2i cups) sugar, sugar, Ingredients. 12 egg whites, Ingredients. flavouring to li 1| teaspoons to taste. taste. teaspoons table table salt, salt, flavouring have When they they have Method. foam. When whites to to aa stiff stifffoam. Method. Whisk Whisk the the wrutes Fill aa forcing-bag forcing-bag with with this and sugar. this risen risen weil, well, add add the the salt salt and sugar. Fill and pipe the meringues in in the desired shape mixture, mixture, and the desired shape and and pipe the meringues Sprinkle with with ffoured baking baking sheets. size and floured sheets. Sprinkle onto buttered buttered and size onto sugar. Bake in oven. in aa very very slow sugar. Bake slow oven. press tbe of each each one one After the base out, press base of meringues out, After taking taking tbe the meringues place. Keep in in aa dry with little bollow. hollow. Keep dry place. with the make aa little the thumb thumb to to make

Meringue (I-ar ous se) Meringue Chantilly Chan tilly (Larousse)

Border BoRDURE DE DE meringues witb with Chantilly Chantilly cream. cream. BORDURE Border of of meringues meringues, Take sorne oval meringues, r.l some oval - Take pink, half vanilla, half half pink, flavoured with with vanilla, white, flavoured half of them white, of them flavoured raspberry essence. essence. flavoured with with strawberry or raspberry strawberry or Arrange with circle, sticking them together together with sticking them Arrange them them inin aa circle,

MERINGUES MERTNGUES ÀA LA CHANTILLY cHltcrlr-Ly -

587 587

MEROU MÉROU Decorate Decorate with crystallised crysta11ised fruit and sprinkle sprinkle with sugar sugar of different colours.

ring on a dish to form a border. border. boiled sugar. Put them in a ring Before serving, fill fi11 the the middle of the the dish with with Chantilly Chantilly Before cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with vanilla vani11a or fruit fruit juice. juice. Meringue croquembouche croquembouche or or pyramid" pyramid. cRoQUEMBoUcHE CROQUEMBOUCHE Meringue MERINGUES - Using Using small oval or round meringues meringues made made DE MERINcUES in different different colours colours and differently differently flavoured, make make a pyramid pyramid in by joining joining them together with sugar boiled boiled to crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR). Alternate the the colours colours in forming forming the pyramid. pyramid. SUGAR). Alternate crust. ITrnNGUE MERINGUE -- A raw or cooked sweet, once Meringue crusL covered with meringue may be covered meringue mixture mixture and put put in it is made, may oyen to bake bake the meringue crust. the oven ltalian meringues. MERINcUEs MERINGUES A À t'ttntrExxn L'ITALIENNE - Proceed as Italian meringues, using using the the cooked cooked meringue meringue called ca11ed for plain plain meringues, for mixture (see MIXTURES). Ita/ian meringue Italian meringue mixture Meringue ià Marignan Marignan -- Cook Cook to ball bail degree (see (see SUGAR) SUGAR) Meringue 2| cups) sugar 500 g. (18 oz., 2i dissolved in a little !ittle water. Add sugar dissolved liqueur. Cook Cook a little !ittle longer kirsch, maraschino or any other liqueur. the ball bail degree. Pour this sugar sugar onto 55 it back to the to bring it stiffly stiffiy beaten egg whites. Marignan meringue meringue is is usually usually decorated decorated with with aa long Marignan angelica stuck strip of stuck at each each end like the handle of crystallised angelica of aa basket. basket. egg sulssEs Swiss meringues. MERINGUES SUISSES - Ingrediutts. Ingredients. 6 6 egg drops acetic acid or whites, cups) fine sugar, 3 drops whites, 500 g. (18 oz., o2.,44 cups) j teaspoon vanilla, a pinch of of salt. teaspoon lemon lemon juice, juice, vanilla, Method. Work the sugar with Method. Work the sugar with 2 2 egg egg whites, whites, the the acetic When the mixture is and salt. is very very white and acid, vanilla and salt. When egg whites, whisked to a smooth, add the 44 remaining remaining egg a stiff oven. well. Pipe througha froth. Mix weil. through a forcing-bag. Bake in the tbe oyen.

MEROU MÉROU - Fish found in Mediterranean Mediterranean coastal waters. A mirou mérou can can be as as much much as as 1 m. m. (39 (39 inches) in in length. length. It is is rather ra ther tasteless. tasteless. All tunny (q.v.) (q.v.) are suitable for mdrou. mérou. AIl recipes for tunny

MERVEILLE MERVEILLE - Name of of a French pastry pastry made made from dough

cut into different different shapes shapes and deep-fried. deep-fried. Make a dough with 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 4i 4t cups) sifted flour, 150 g. (5 oz., J~ cup) butter, butter, 25 g. (l (1 o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sugar, 4 eggs and a small pinch of of salt. Leave this dough to stand stand for for 1I hour. Roll it it out to a thickness of t cm. $ inch). Cut Cut into various shapes shapes with fluted fluted pastry-cutters. pastry-cutters. Deep-fry in boiling sprinkle with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. boiling fat. Drain, and sprinkle

t

ct

MESCAL MESCAL - Alcoholic Akoholic drink tasting of bitter almonds. It It is made made in in Mexico Mexico and and South South America from from the the Mexican Mexican agave.

MESENTERY OF CALF. MESENTERY OF CALF.

FRATsE FRAISE DE DE VEAU VEAU - Membrane Membrane which envelopes envelopes the intestines intestines of of the calf. This is cooked like Calf Calfss head(see head (see OFFAL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS).

MESSIRE-JEAN MESSIRE-JEAN -- French variety of pear of medium mediwn size which ripens in autumn. autumn. Its Its skin skin is is russet in colour with a gritty in texture, but very fragrant. fragrant. greyish tinge. It It is rather gritty

t

METS - The French apply this term term to any food food prepared It derives from the Latin missus. for the table. It missus.

METTON -- See CHEESE. CHEESE.

(Nicolas) Milk (Nicolas) Milk

588

LK MI MILK with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant +t cup) cup) anisette anisette liqueur. liqueur. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture into into ornamental omamental tins tins and and bake bake in in aa

MEUNIDRE MEUNIÈRE (A (À f,A) LA) -- Method Method of cooking cooking fish, fish, which which is is seasoned, lightly lightly floured floured and and fried fried in in butter. butter. To To serve, serve, seasoned, squeeze a few few drops of lemon lemon juice juice over it, it, sprinkle sprinkle with with squeeze

medium medium oven. Turn Tum out out the the cakes, cakes, spread spread with with apricot apricot jam jam and ice ice with with aniseed-flavoured aniseed-flavoured Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING). ICING).

parsley, parsley, and and pour pour on the the cooking cooking butter, butter, piping piping hot. hot.

MILK. MILK. LAIr LAIT -- Opaque Opaque white white alkaline alkaline liquid liquid with with aa yellowish yellowish

MEURETTE MEURETTE -- The name of of aa Matelote Matelote dà la la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE).

or bluish bluish tinge, tinge, secreted by by the the mammary mammary glands. glands. The composition composition of of the the milk milk varies varies according according to to the the type type and breed breed of of animal, animal, its state state of of health health and and the the diet diet on on which which itit has has been been reared. reared.

MEURSAULT -- A A great great white Burgundy wine classified c1assified

among the wines wines of of C6te Côte de Beune. Beune. Meursault Meursault also yields excellent, though less less well-known, well-known, red red wines. wines.

MICROWAVE OVEN OVEN - An electrically electrically operated countercounter-

top top appliance appliance that that works works on on the the principle principle of of radiation

reaction on the water water molecules molecules within within foods of of all ail kinds, so so that foods are cooked evenly evenly throughout throughout in a comparatively comparatively that short short time. time. Much Much prized prized for for its its cleanliness cJeanliness and and speed in cooking, cooking, it has gained great great popularity. Manufacturers Manufacturers have met met all ail government safety safety and and health health requirements, but scientists scientists have no definite data data on possible possible radiation radiation damage damage continual use. from continuai use.

.riib"

s

MIGNONETTE -- French French name for for coarsely coarsely ground pepper. pepper. MIGNONETTE In ln former former times, times, this this was was the the name given given to to a a muslin muslin sachet containing containing red pepper, pepper, nutmeg, coriander, cinnamon, cinnamon, sachet ginger and cloves. This aromatic aromatic sachet was was dipped for for a few moments in the cooking pot to season season the food. food. It could be used several times. times.

Milk Milk analysis analysis laboratory laboratory Laiterie Servas (Ain) Laiterie Servas (Ain) (Rayot) (RayOl)

(l| pints, A A litre litre (Ii pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk milk supplies supplies the the body body g. protein, with with 30 g. protein, 35 g. g. fats, fats, 54 54 g. g. milk milk sugar, 77 g. g. mineral minerai (calcium, phosphorus, salts salts (calcium, phosphorus, sodium, sodium, etc.) etc.) and and an an apappreciable quantity of of Vitamins preciable quantity Vitamins A, A, B, B, Br, Bl' Bz, B2' C.It C. It is is indisindis-

MIGNOT celebrated restaurateur of MIGNOT -- A A celebrated of the the seventeenth seventeenth satire century. He was immortalised immortalised by Boileau who, in in his satire le Repas ridicule, called him a poisoner. 'Car Mignot, Mignot, c'est tout dire, et dans le monde entier entier Jamais Jamais mieux son metier.' metier.' empoisonneur ne sut mieux in the whole world 'For Mignot, 1I need need say no more, and in 'For 'Never did aa poisoner know his job job better.' better.' and aa cook of of sorne some talent and Mignot who, itit is is said, said, was aa cook was much enraged by restaurateur, was conscientious restaurateur, conscientious much enraged by such His suit court. His suit was his complaint to and took criticism and took his criticism to court. he resolved resolved to to take vengeance himself. At rejected and and he rejected At that pastry much kind of dry dry pastry he was was making making aa kind time much prized by time he little wrapping these these little of wrapping idea of He conceived conceived the the idea Parisians. He Parisians. expense, he ofpaper cakes in aa sheet of paper upon which, at his own expense, violent satire on Boileau written by the latter's had printed aa violent the Abbé Abb6 Cottin. enemy, the pastries, which called biscuits biscuits which were were called The success of these these pastries, The them so so as All Paris wanted to taste them Mignot, was was enonnous. Ali Mignot, verses in in which the verses at the same time, the able to same time, be able to savour, savour, at to to be Mignot subsided someCottin reviled Boileau. The rage of Mignot Cottin him any far from from doing doing him when he he discovered that, far discoverd that, what when what greater prosperity. prosperity. had contributed contributed to his greater couplet had harm, the couplet

pensable complete food pensable to to babies, but but not not the complete food for for adults adults that that many many suppose it it to to be: be: its its nutritive nutritive value value is is inadequate. inadequate. For For carbohydrates for example, to example, to obtain obtain sufficient carbohydrates for his his needs, needs, have to drink 33 litres average adult adult would the the average would have to drink litres (5f (Si pints, pints, (120 g.) case the 6| pints) milk; in in which which case 6i pints) milk; the protein protein intake intake (120 g.) (18 oz.) g. (18 of beef. 500 g. excessive, equivalent equivalent to would be would be excessive, to 500 oz.) of beef. of his also be in in excess of Lime salts would would also Lime his needs. needs. always be In spite of the fact fact that it it is is aa liquid, should always ln liquid, milk milk should be and should and not as aa drink, drink, and should be sipped as aa food food and regarded as not as be sipped way, it coagulates in Taken in in this and swallowed slowly. slowly. Taken and this way, it coagula tes in

in the neighfrom grapes grown in MIGRAINE -- Wine Wine made from bourhood of of Auxerre. bourhood GARNISHES. MIKADO -- See See GARNISHES. MIKADO is (A LA) prepared àd la la milanaise milanaise is Food prepared LA) -- Food MILANAISE (À MILANAISE grated with grated mixed with generally dipped and breadcrumbs mixed in egg egg and dipped in generally fried in in cJarified clarified butter. cheese, and and fried Parmesan cheese, Pannesan preparing macaroni, macaroni, method of of preparing The name name also also described described aa method The with from macaroni with garnish for meat, made made from for cuts cuts of of meat, and aa gamish and pickled tongue, mushrooms ham, pickled tongue, mushrooms coarsely shredded cheese, coarsely shredded ham, cheese, in tomato tomato sauce. sauce. and truffies, all blended blended in truffies, all and garnish isis also also used used with with Macaroni Macaroni timbales timbales àd la This garnish la This (see TIMBALE). milanaise (see TIMBALE). milanaise

for aa as for Heat on MILANESE CAKE. MILANAIs -- Heat on the the stove, stove, as CAKE. MILANAIS MILANESE (9 oz., g. (9 fine sugar and 66 eggs eggs until until 250 g. o2.,22 cups) cups) fine sugar and Genoese cake, cake, 250 Genoese (7 oz., g. (7 cup) heat. Add 200 g. Add 200 scant cup) mixture begins oz., scant the mixture begins to to heat. the (7 oz., g. (7 Flavour flour. Flavour melted butter 200 g. oz.l| cups) sieved sieved flour. butter and and 200 melted li cups)

Concentrated miJk milk Concentrated (Nicolas) (Nicolas)

589 589

MILL MILL little fragments fragments in in the the stomach, stomach, and and these these can can be be dealt dealt with with little juices. On readily by by the the digestive digestive juices. On the the other other hand, hand, ifif itit isis readily gulped down down itit forms forms aa large large indigestible indigestible clot clot in in the the stomach, stomach, gulped juices have and the digestive juices the digestive have difficulty difficulty in in breaking breaking itit down. down. and For the reason, milk the same milk isis more same reason, more digestible digestible in in the form of the forro of For porridges because, and porridges soups and because, mixed mixed witb with carbohydrates, carbohydrates, the the soups clot breaks breaks up into fragments up into fragments more more readily. persons readily. Even Even persons clot suffering from from enteritis enteritis can can take milk in in this take milk form, this form_ suffering Condensed milk. milk. LAITS r.q.rrs CONDENSÉS coNDENsfs -- Milk Milk collected collected with with Condensed the utmost utmost care, care, with with or or without without added added sugar, is evaporated sugar, is evaporated the in aa vacuum vacuum at per cent at 60 60 per cent so reduce its as to so as to reduce its water water content content by by in per cen 40 to to 50 50 per cent. 40 t. Sweetened condensed condensed milk milk keeps keeps better, better, once once the the tin tin isis Sweetened opened, than than unsweetened unsweetened milk. milk. ItIt has has the the consistency consistency of of opened, thick cream. cream. thick Did milk. LArrs DEssÉcHÉS onssfcnfu -- Milk, milk. LAITS partly Milk, usually usually partly Dried skimmed, isis evaporated evaporated very very rapidly rapidly by passing through by passing through skimmed, heated cylinders. cylinders. Powdered Powdered milk milk keeps keeps very partial very weil. well. The The partial heated milk makes skimming of of the the milk makes itit less less likely powder will likely that the the powder will skimming rancid. This turn rancid. This milk, milk, suitably given to young young suitably diluted, diluted, can can be be given turn babies. babies. Fermented milk. mllk. LAITS LArrs FERMENTÉS rrnurNrfs -- All All agricultural agricultural Fermented communities make make use preserve milk and use of of fermentation fermentation to to preserve and communities alter its its flavour. flavour. Apart Apart from from spontaneous spontaneous coagulation, due due alter to the the action action of lactic microbes, of the the lactic microbes, which produces curds, which produces to and curdling means of rennet, curdling by rennet, which by means which is the basis of cheesecheeseand making, there are many many other there are other types types of of fermented fermented milk. making, Examples of of these these are are the the dahdi dahdi of India, the of India, the mazyn mazyn of of Examples Armenia, the huslanka of the Carpathians and Bukovina, the huslanka Bukovina, the Armenia, yoghurt of an zebadi lab an the yoghurt of Bulgaria and the taetta lab zebadi of Egypt, the of Scandinavia. This last is This last is aa runny, runny, viscous viscous milk milk to to which of prevent coagulation. vegetablejuices are added added to to prevent vegetable juices are All produced by the action of these types of of sour milk milk are produced Ail these lactic ferments of varying degrees purity and of varying degrees of of purity and obtained lactic ferments from aa number of different sources. number of from (q.v.) and (q.v.) are Kefir and koumiss koumiss (q.v.) are produced by by the the comKefir (q.v.) bined (brewer's yeast), of the lactic ferments ferments and barm (brewer's bined action of which alcohol, and and carbonic acid, acid. renderwhich forms lactic lac tic acid, alcohol, ing ing the the milk milk frothy. frothy. Almond See ALMOND. ALMOND. Almond nilkmilk - See Buttermilk See BUTTERMILK. Buttermilk - See BUTTERMILK. Coconut COCONUT. Coconut milk milk -- See COCONUT.

top of of the the millas millas and and coyer cover with with another layer of another layer millas. of millas. top Smooth the the surface surface carefully. carefully. Make Make aa border border of cherries, of cherries, Smooth prepared as as indicated indicated above. above. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with crushed crushed macamacaprepared roons. Pour Pour on melted butter on melted butter and and brown in aaslow brown in slow oyen. oven. roons. (dessert) can A millas millas sweet sweet (dessert) be made made in can be inthe thesame same way way using using A various kinds kinds of of cooked cooked fruit fruit such as apricots, apricots, bananas, such as bananas, various peaches, pears, pears, apples, plums, etc. apples, plums, etc. peaches, Fried millas. millas. MILLAS MTLLAs FRIT FRrr -- Cut Cut the millas the mi into slices il as into Fried slices of of equal thickness. thickness. Flour Flour the the slices slices and and brown lightly in in brown them them lightly equal butter or fat. Prepared or fat. Prepared in in this this way way millas millas can place can be be used used in in place butter of bread bread with with various various dishes gravy. in gravy. dishes in of Millas with frittons. MILLAS with frittons. MTLLAs AUX Aux FRITTONS FRrrroNs -- ln In Languedoc Languedoc Millas this type millas isis made type of of miilas made on on the the day according to day when, when, according this to the the local phrase, phrase, the (cooks the housewife fait pig). the housewife cochon (cooks local the pig). fait lele cochon porridge isis cooked The porridge cooked in in the the cauldron cauldron used used to to clarify clarify the The the fat fat pig. At of the the pig. At the (the residue the end end of cooking, the of the the cooking, residue thefrittons of frittons (the pork fat of the the pork fat after after melting) melting) are are added millas. added to to the the millas. of When itit isis ready, porridge isis poured ready, the poured onto the porridge When floured onto aa floured linen cio left to cloth and left It isis then to cool. cool. It into squares then sliced linen th and sliced into squares or or rectangles before grilled. before being fried or being fried or grilled. rectangles jam. MILLAS Millm with grape jam. with grape unras AU AU RASINÉ RASTNE -- Spread Millas Spread slices slices of of (q.v.) and millas with with raisiné raisini (q.v.) and arrange arrange them in aa circle millas circle on them in on aa dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the slices slices with with cru crushed macaroons. Pour dish. shed macaroons. Pour on on gently in melted butter and brown brown gently butter and in the melted the oyen. oven. jam, or The millas millas may may be be spread spread with with other other types The types of of jam, or pur6es. thick purées. Lot-et-Garonne millas. millas. MILLAS MTLLAs DE DE LOT-ET-GARONNE Lor-ET-cARoNNE -- This Lot-et-Garonne This kind of of millas isis cailed called aa rimote rimote and and also also aa cruchade cruchade in Lotin Lotkind et-Garonne. et-Garonne. water into aa large pan and and bring Pour water boil. Flavour Flavour bring to to the the boil. with lemon essence essence and and orange-flower orange-flower water. water. Sprinkle into into the liquid freshly the boiling boiling liquid milled maize Sprinkle freshly milled maize flour (cornmeal) until aa thick porridge is produced. Pour flour Pour into shallow plates. shallow Rimotes are eaten hot, hot, sprinkled are eaten Rimotes sprinkled with with sugar. sugar. When When they they are cold, cold, they they can can be quarters, browned be cut cut into into quarters, are browned on on both pan, and and sprinkled sprinkled with sugar. sides in aa frying pan, sugar. MTLLAs AU AU SUCRE Millas with sugar. MILLAS sucRE -- Cut aa layer of of millas into slices. Cook the slices slices in hot butter or fat. fat. (In Languedoc pork or goose fat is used used for this purpose.) Brown the the slices on both Drain. Sprinkle sides. Sprinkle liberally liberally with on both si des. Drain. with fine fine sugar flavoured with vanilla or lemon rind. millss. MILLAS Toasted millas. MtLLAs GRILLÉ Toasted 6RILLE -- Spread millas Spread slices slices of of miilas with fat or butter. Toast them gently under the grill.

MILL. Small machine used to pulverise MILL. MouLrN MOULIN - Small pulverise foodstuffs foodstuffs such su ch as as coffee, breadcrumbs, pepper, pepper, block block salt, etc.

MILLAS MILLAS or or MILIASSE MILlASSE - Name Name given in in the the Languedoc region porridge or hasty-pudding hast y-pudding made made either region to a kind of porridge with wheaten with maize flour flour (cornmeal) (cornmeal) or with aa mixture of wheaten flour flour and maize Il1aize flour. fiour. Though Though the the true true millas millas is is made in in Languedoc, similar porridges porridges are are made in in various parts parts of of south-eastern and south-western France. France. In different different areas they they are are given given other names: names: cruchade cruchade in in Guyenne and Gascony; Gascony; broye, broye, gaudines gaudines or or yerbilhou yerbilhou in B6arn; Béarn; pous pous or rimotes r imot es in P6rigord; Périgord; gaudes gaudes in Franche-Comt6. Franche-Comté. Polenta Polenta (q.v.), (q.v.), which which is made made in Corsica Corsica and and in Provence, Provence, is is aa porridge porridge of of the the same same type type as as millas. millas. The The millas millas of of Languedoc Languedoc isis aa dish dish in in rustic rustic style. style. Formerly, Formerly, in in the the countryside coun tryside of of the the region, it was was eaten ea ten like like bread bread with wi th certain certain dishes cooked in gravy, gravy, such su ch as as beef beef daube, civet of hare, hare, etc. etc. When When used used in in this this way, way, the the millas, millas, when when it is is quite quite cold, is cut cut into into slices slices and and browned browned in in fat fat in in aa frying frying pan, pan, or cold, is toasted toasted under under the the grill. grill. In In Languedoc, Languedoc, various various sweets are are made made from from millas. millas. Cherry Cherry millas. millas. MILLAS MILLAS AUx AUX cERIsEs CERISES -- Put Put aa layer layer of of hot hot millas millas in in aa buttered buttered pie pie dish. dish. Add Add sugar sugar and and flavour flavour with with kirsch. Smooth the the millas millas carefully. carefully. Part-cook Part-cook some sorne stoned stoned kirsch. Smooth cherries in syrup. syrup. Drain, Drain, and and steep steep in in kirsch. kirsch. Spread Spread them them on on cherries in

MiUe-feuilles Mille-feuilles

MILLE-FEUILIJD MILLE-FEUILLE -- A pastry pastry very much in vogue vogue in Paris. Paris.

It It is is made made by by arranging arranging thin layers layers of of flaky flaky pastry one on top the other with layers of cream or sorne of the some other filling in between. between. Mille-feuille can be baked in the form forro of a large sweet, sweet, Mille-feuille in Parispdtisseries, Paris pâtisseries, in small decorated in in various various ways. ways. Or, Or, as as in decorated individual portions, portions, by cutting the the flaky pastry into pieces individual inches) yide }Vide and and laying them them one on on top of the the cm. (2 inches) 5 cm. 590 590

MINCERS AND CHOPPERS CHOPPERS MINCERS MINCEMEAT (English cookery) -- Mincemeat Mincemeat should steep MINCEMEAT @ngHsh cookery) rum or brandy. Madeira, mm brandy. for a month in Madeira, United States, minceMince pie is popular in the United States, but the mincemeat is different. different. is not not an an ingredient of English mincemeat. In In the Meat is United States meat (beef or or venison) is is almost almost always United always inrecipes for cluded, although although several meatless mincemeat for meatless c1uded, several recipes grean tomatoes and exist, sorne some using green and others more exist, more c10sely closely resembling the English variety. resemlblimg (1 lb., 33 English mincemeat. g. (1 mincemeat MINCEMEAT MTNcEMEAT ANGLAIS ANcLArs -- 450 g. (1 lb., g. (1 lb., 3 cups) 450 g. cups) snreo(]ea shredded suet, cups) currants, 450 g. suet, 450 (l lb., 3 cups) (l lb., 4 cups) g. (1 cups) chopped chopped seeded raisins, 450 g. (1 (l lb., g. (1 (l lb., 33 lb., 2 cups) chopped apples, 450 g. cups) sugar, 450 g. (1 g. (4 oz., sultanas, 100 g. cups) sultanas, o2.,3i cup) chopped, mixed candied candied (4 tablespoons) brandy fruit peel, fruit peel, 33 tablespoons (4 brandy or or rum, juice and rind of lemon, 1I teaspoon and rind of 1I lemon, teaspoon each each of cinna cinnamon, mon, nutmeg, clove and and mace. Pack closely in jars and cover Combine the ingredients. Pack and cover yields about 22kg. tightly. This yields kg. (4 to 55lb.) lb.) mincemeat. American minssmsxg lutnrcnx -- Put mincemeat. MTNcEMEAT MINCEMEA T AMÉRICAIN Put the (l lb., g. (1 followingingredients in aa large bowl: bowl:450 1b.,33 cups) 450 g. following ingredients in (l lb., g. (1 lb., 3t 3j cups) cups) cooked and and finely minced beef suet, suet, 450 g. (l lb., 3 cups) seeded and chopped raisins, g. (lIb., diced beef, 450 g. (l lb., g. (1 450 lb., 33 cups) cleaned and and washed washed currants 450 g. currants and (l lb., 44 cups) g. (1 450 g. sultanas, 450 cups) peeled and and chopped chopped rennet sultanas, (5 OZ., g. (5 apples, 150 150 g. cup) finely diced candied citron, citron, oz., 1I cup) finely diced apples, (4 OZ., g. (4 peel, the 100 g. chopped candied candied orange orange peel, oz., i* cup) chopped 100 "up) of 1I orange, 450 g. (1 (l lb., 2 cups) light chopped rind and juice (l OZ., brown moist 25 g. sugar, 25 oz., * cup) mixed mixed spices, brown moist sugar, spices, 212f E. (1 "up) (6 tablespoons, teaspoons salt, brandy, 1I dl. salt, aa half-bottle brandy, dl. (6 tablespoons, teaspoons rum, 1I dl. scant + cup) rum, dl. (6 tablespoons, seant seant scant 1Madeira. * cup) Madeira. all the ingredients thoroughly. Leave Leave the mixture to Mix ail steep for lI month month in a cool place. Stir every 8 days. fritters. BETcNETS BEIGNETS DE MTNcEMEAT MINCEMEAT -- Dip rounds Mincemeat fntters. Fill them with mincemeat and shape of rice paper in water. Fil! shape into balls. Dip them deep-fry. Serve and deep-fry. them in batter and Serve with in batter apricot sauce tl""r\-"r~·rl flavoured with rum. Milnclem,eat Mincemeat omelette, omelette, or Christmas Christrnas omelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE DE (orr,rnr,nrrr DE MINcEMEAT NoEL)- Beat the eggs, adding a few MINCEMEAT (OMELETTE DE NOÊL)rum, grated lemon rind, and tablespoons tablespoons fresh cream, cream, a little mm,

other, other, sandwiched sandwiched together in the same way with cream or some other filling. sorne MILLE-FEUILTr -- Roll Roll out Large Large mille-feuille. mille-feuille. GROSS out the cRoss MILLE-FEUILLE (t inch) thick. Cut circles cm. Ci Flaky Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) 2 cm. 15 to 18 cm. (6 to 7 inches) in diameter. Put these on a baking with sugar and and bake in Leave to sheet, sheet dredge dredge with in aa hot oyen. oven. Leave cool, trim, cool, trim, and and spread each circle with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) any other cream. Place with any (see Place the other sweet cream. CREAMS) or or with circles one on top of the other to produce a cake 18 to 20 cm. (7 to Ice it it wi with (7 th plain to 88 inches) deep, regular in shape. Ice meringue, carefully smoothed with a knife. Sprinkle Sprinkle with minutes to set the oven for a few minutes sugar and put the cake in the oYen meringue. Decorate the top of the cake according to taste. Large mille-feuilles, after being covered with aa thin layer and sides of meringue, may may be be sprinkled sprinkled on on the the top top and sides with and pistachio nuts, either whole or dried sultanas, currants and dried chopped. When they are intended to be used used for aa cold buffet they arranged as a further decorated ornaments arranged decorated with sugar ornaments can be further and with plumes of spun border on on top of the cake, and spun sugar. This type of decoration for for large cakes is is hardly ever ever used This nowadays. Most commonly, are made commonly, mille-feuilles are made square and simply sprinkled with icing sugar. and Mille-feuille can also be be fi"lled with any any kind kind of confecconfecfilled with can also in alterna cream or alternate jams in te tioner's cream fruit pur6es or jams or thick thick fruit layers. The layers of of a large mille-feuille can also be spread at crectrn (see '-J"",.c,r">'lVl., the last moment with thick Chantilly cream CREAMS) flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. Ravoured PETIr MILLE-FEUILLE SmaU mille-feuille. PETIT MILLE-FEUILLE -- Individual Small mille-feuille. portions are made in the same way as large mille-feuilles, mille-feuilles,but but laid one on top of the square layers, layers, spread with cream, cream, are laid cm. (2 inches) wide. The top the other, and cut into pieces 5 cm. is left plain.

t

t

MILLER'S THUMB. for a THUMB. MEITNTER Common name name for MILLER'S MEUNIER -- Common freshwater fish, known as asa bull-head. It is eaten fried. fish, also known a bul/-head. (whatever its region MILLESIME MILLÉSIME -- French term for a wine (whatever (mill6sime) marked or vineyard) that has the vintage year (millésime) that has year helps label and the year and the both on on the label the cork. Since the both helps to

sugar.

distinguish the character and worth of of a wine, these these are the distinguish ones preferred connoisseurs. DreJerred by connoisseurs. equal in any means equal not by any in quality. All dated wines wines are are not good and and mediocre wines. There are ex(;eJ:,tlcma.l, excellent, good exceptional, Ç.II.\_~;llÇ'H, The qualities of aa particular year also vary from from region to also vary The region and and occasionally from vineyard to vineyard. In ~"_U."'jJ"'5""" Champagne, only the bottles of the best vintage years are marked; the others are used used for blending.

and, just just bef ore ffolding olding it over, Cook the omelette omelette in butter butter and, before fill it with aa few fil! few tablespoons mincemeat, heated with fresh cream. Sprinkle the omelette omelette with sugar, pour plenty of rum cream. over it, set alight and serve. over RISSoLES DE DE MINcEMEAT MINCEMEAT - Proceed as Mincemeat rissoles. RISSOLES (q.v.). for plain rissoles (g.v.). DE MINcEr,rElr vol-au-vent. BOUCHÉES soucH6Es DE Mincemeat vol-au-vent. MINCEMEAT -- Bake vol-au-vent. While hot, fil small vol-au-vent. While they are are still fill1 them small still hot, them with mincemeat with fresh cream added. pie', wrote 'This !ittle Mine pie -- 'This little pie', wrote Suzanne, Mince Suzanne, French 'is especially historian of English English cookery, cookery, 'is esteemed and especially esteemed popular in in England. England. With the the legendary plum pudding, it presides as master mas ter at the gargantuan love feast of Christmas, Its absence from aa Christmas dinner would would be looked upon as a breach of the traditional rules and customs.' pies, !ine line large, large, deep, To make deep, buttered buttered tarti tartlet To make the et tins the pies, flaky pastry trimmings. trimmings. Fill with plain lining dough or with fiaky above. Cover with a with one one of the the mincemeats mincemeats indicated above. with (see DOUGH). Press layer of Flaky pastry (see Press the the edges thin thin layer together. Make aa hole in the centre of each pie to allow the hot oven. escape. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and bake in aa hot steam steam to to escape. Serve the mince pies hot.

grain which which is is one MILLET -- Cereal Cereal grain one of severa! several species species of panic-grass. There edible varieties, the common There are two main edible panic-grass. called lta/ian ltalian or German millet. millet. and what is now called millet and ancient times, the This plant has been cultivated from very ancient 'Italian' millet in the Egypto-Arab common millet Egypto-Arab countries countries and the 'ltalian' variety in Japan. Millet Millet was cultivated India in prehistoric Dn!hlstolnc cultivated in India times. The Romans used used it to make aa kind of milk porridge from the grains after removing the husks. husks. It It isis still used in from tribes. this way by sorne some African tribes. (Pitisserie) MILLIASSOUS {P;Hi~:'ilPl'ip\

-

-

g. (7 OZ., Put Put in in aa bowl 200 g. oz.,

l| cups) l$ cups) Rour flour made from small millet, oz., li 11 millet, 400 g. (14 OZ.,

Add the and 8 eggs. Work this this mixture thoroughly. thoroughly. Add sugar and eggs. Work lemons. Moisten with 1| litres (2| finely chopped rind of 2 lemons. Moisten with chopped rind pints, Ji well. 3f pints) boiling milk and mix weIl. Fill Fil! sm ail buttered baking tins with the mixture. Bake in a small hot oven for 20 to 30 minutes.

11

HAcHorRs -- In In butcher's MINCERS AND AND CHOPPERS. HACHOIRS MINCERS precision implements kitchens, precision implements are shops shops and and restaurant restaurant kitchens, Many of electrically mincing and chopping. Many used for mincing of them are electrically operated. operated.

mimosa with with coarsely coarsely chopped MIMOSA MIMOSA SALADSALAD- Sprinkle mimosa yolks of hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and serve in a salad bowl.

591

MINERAL MINERAL WATERS fine and more bitter bitter in taste th an that of gudgeon. Prepare in than gudgeon (q.v.). the same sa me way as gudgeon

MINT.

MENTTTE great MENTHE -- Fragrant plant of which there there are aa great many varieties. These most most commonly commonly used in France are used in udpue (curly mint) or menthe rouge menthe pouliot, menthe crépue (red mint). Peppermint Peppermint is aa variety of mint used in in dispensing. ing. It has a four-sided stem which is is green or reddish, reddish, and and contains an oily peppermint) from which oily essence (essence of peppermint) crystals of of camphor camphor mint or menthol can be extracted. Mint, great deaJ which is Mint, which is used used aa great in infusions, isis also also an deal in ingredient number of liqueurs. It is is also used in ingredient in aa large number also used cooking, cooking, especially especiaJly in England, where it is cultivated. cultivated. (2| lb.) fresh Spirit of mint is made by steeping 1I kg. kg. (2i fresh mint leaves in 3 litres (5f, (U.S. 80 (Si pints, pints, G 61- pintg pints) alcohol, alcohol, 70° 70' (U.S. 80') proof, for 3 days, and distilling it by condensation. Mint sauce (English (Engtish cookery). SAUCE-MENTHE sAUcE-MENTHE -- This sauce is an an almost almost indispensable adjunct to to hot hot or or cold cold lamb lamb in England. England. Add l+ li dl. d!. (f Ct pint, 3t cup) .np) vinegar, 4 tablespoons (i $ cup) water, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., iI cup) fine fine sugar, a a pinch pinch of salt and and a (2 oz., little little pepper to to 50 50 g. g. (2 cups) finely fin el y shredded o2.,22 cups) shredded mint leaves. in a a bowl. bowl. For an alternative leaves. Leave Leave to to marinate in For an alternative Sauces. recipe see see SAUCE, Cold Sauces. recipe C

)

MArs (P6rigord (périgord cookery) -- Make a a fairly MIQUES DE MAIS

oz., li cups) maize Bour (cornmeal) stiff dough dough with 250 250 g. (9 oz,lf stiff maizn flour oz., 2i cups) cups) sifted flour, fl 0 ur, 1 tablespoon pork fat, a 250 g. (9 o2.,2| pinch of of salt and a glass glass of of tepid water. wa ter. this dough dough is is well weil kneaded, break break it it into into small When this pieces each. Shape the tbe pieces into balls by pieces of 100 g. (4 oz.) each. rolling them them in floured hands. hands. rolling ioto a saucepan of salted salted boiling Drop these dough balls into like forcemeat balls. Turn them over once water. Poach like once or so that that they they are fully cooked. cooked. twice so 25 to to 30 30 minutes' minutes' boiling, When they are are ready, ready, after When after 25 put them them on a cloth cloth and keep thern them warm. strain the the miques, put strain Miques are are eaten eaten as as bread. bread. In In the the countryside countryside around Miques Périgord, they they are are an an accompaniment accompaoiment to to dishes dishes such such as as P6rigord, pickled pork with cabbage; cabbage; civet civet of of hare hare or rabbit, rabbit, etc. pickled pork by frying them be served as as a sweet sweet (dessert) by They can also be butter and sprinkling with sugar. sugar. in butter

Mincers and and choppers choppers (La (La Carpe. Ca,~. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Mincers

In French French private priva te kitchens, kitchens, one one of of the the implements implements used used is is In the four-bladed, four-bladed, double-handled double-handled chopper. chopper. An An ordinary the meat chopper chopper can can be be used, used, too, too, though though this this is is really really intended intended meat for for chopping chopping bones. bones. Chopping boards boards are are sometimes sometimes made made of of cross-grained cross-grained Chopping plywood, chopping blocks blocks described described under under CHOPCHOPplywood, like like the the chopping

PING. PING.

MINERAL MINERAL WATERS. WATERS. e,qrrx EAUX r,rrNfRALEs MINÉRALES

-

- Some Sorne natural natural mineral minerai water water isis produced produced by by the the disintegration disintegration of of the the rocks rocks under intense intense heat heat in in the the bowels bowels of of the the earth. earth. This water water is is under sometimes hot hot when when itit reaches reaches the the earth's earth's surface surface (thermal (thermal sometimes water), sometimes sometimes cold. cold. Each Each mineral minerai spring spring has has its its own own water), special properties properties which which seem seem to to be be unrelated unrelated to to its its chemical chemical special composition, since since two two springs springs very very close close together together can can have have composition, different properties. properties. different

MIRABEAU (A (À LA) -- Garnish served mainly with grilled MIRABEAU fillets arranged in in a meat. It It consists of strips of anchovy fillets meat. pattern on on the the meat, meat, stoned stoned olives, olives, blanched criss-cross pattern criss-cross tarragon leaves leaves and anchovy anchovy butter. butter. tarragon MIRABELLE -- Small plum, plum, golden yellow yellow in colour colour with aa MIRABELLE is eaten stewed, stewed, made into jam, preprepenetrating smell. smel!. It is penetrating served, and used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofa is also used used served, a spirit. It is in confectionery. confectionery. in Mirabelle phm plum flan. FLAN FLAN Aux AUX MTRABELLEs MIRABELLES - Proceed as Mirabelle - Proceed as Apricot tart tart (see (see TART). TART). indicated for Apricot indicated

MINESTRA -- Italian ltalian word word for for a a thick thick soup. soup. The The bestbestMII{ESTRA

known of of Italian ltalian minestras minestras isis minestrone, minestrone, for for which which aa recipe recipe known given under under SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS. BROTHS. isis given

MIRBANE. Name Name givan given to an an artificial essence essence of bitter bitter MIRBANE.

MINNOW. vAIRoN VAIRON -- Small Small freshwater freshwater fish fish whose whose bronzebronzeMINNOW. It is is often often substituted substituted for for coloured back back has has olive olive lights. lights. It coloured gudgeon in fritures fritures of of small srnall fish. fish. Its Its flesh, flesh, however, however, is is less less gudgeon rn

almonds. It It is is aa yellow yellow liquid liquid with with a powerful smell, and is almonds. used in in perfumery perfumery and and occasionally occasionally in in inferior inferior confectionery. confectionery. used MIREPOIX -- Mixture Mixture used used in in meat, meat, fish fish and and shellfish shellfish MIREPOD(

dishes to to enhanoe enhance their their flavour. Bavour. dishes Mirepoix with with meat. meat. MIREPoIX MIREPOIX AU AU cRAs GRAS - Cook 150 g. g. (5 oz., oz., Mirepoix - Cook 150 li cups) cups) diced diced carrot, carrot, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz, oz., I1 cup) cup) chopped onion, onion, 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., fi cup) cup) chopped chopped celery, celery, and and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., *i cup) 50 chopped raw raw ham harn or or blanched bJanched belly belly of of pork pork in in 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., chopped butter in in aa covered covered saucepan saucepan with aa sprig of tablespoons) butter 22 tablespoons)

lf

thyme and and aa quarter quarter of of aa bay bay leaf. leaf. Simmer Sirnrner slowly slowly until until the thyme vegetables are are very very tender. tender. vegetables

Mirepoix is is added added to to certain certain sauces, sauces, notably notably Espagnole Espagnole Mirepoix (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to to enhance enhance the the flavour. flavour. It can can also also be be sauce (se sauce added to to braised braised or or pot-roasted pot-roasted meat meat or or poultry. poultry. added

Minnow

592

MIXTURES MIXTURES

(Mougins) Bottling Vichy mineralwater Bottling plant plant for for Vichy mineraI waler (Mougins)

synonym of of French word, Old French MITAN (Middle-cut) MITAN (Middle-cut) -- Old word, aa synonym cut of of salmon. salmon. for the middle cooking for middle. It It is used used in cooking rillddle cut

MIREPox AU AU MAIGRE -- This mirepoix Vegetable mirepoix. MIREPOIX mirepoix Vegetable is used brunoise.It is often called bru/Wise. It is used mainly in the preparation preparation is It isis also also used as la bordelaise. of shellfish àd la as an an additional bordelarse. It in sorne ingredient in some white sauces. (4 oz., g. (4 (5 oz., g. (5 oz., 1I diced carrot, 100 g. Cook li cups) diced Cook 150 g. oz.,lf (2 oz., !i cup) chopped celery g. (2 and 50 50 g. cup) chopped chopped onion onion and of powdered with salt, salt, aa pinch slowly pinch of in butter. Season with slowly in butter. Season vegetables are are very the vegetables leaf. Cook Cook until until the bay leaf. and bay thyme, thyme, and tender. tender.

which for ail all the animalcules which Common name for cIRoN -- Common CIRON vegetable in vegetable for instance, instance, or or in in cheese for matter, in live in in food food matter,

MITE. refuse.

meaning to to simmer simmer term meaning cooking term French cooking MITONNER -- French MITONNER for a long time in soup. bread for ingredients thoroughly thoroughly To blend various various ingredients oEleyER -- To MIX. DÉLAYER MIX. into aa homogenous mixture. into

form of a in the the fonn Small pastry in MIRLITONS DE ROUEN -- Smail MIRLITONS is speciality of Rouen. tartlet which is (9 oz.) f1aky g. (9 dough,44 egg yolks, flaky pastry dough, Ingredients.250 Ingredients. 250 g. (4 oz., g. (4 (2 oz., cup) butter, butter, 1I g. (2 125 g. oz.,1 cup) sugar, sugar, 125 oz., if cup) 50 ! cup) 50 g. pod, + tablespoon orange-blossom water. vanilla pod,! vanilla (see DOUGH). Mix the DOUGH). Mix Flaky pastry Method. pastry (see Method. Make Make Flaky part taken from the inside of the vanilla (the part sugar, sugar, yolks and vanil1a in colour, is nut-brown nut-brown in Add the butter, pod). Add butter, heated until it is with the Line tartlet tartlet tins tins with water. Line and the and the orange-blossom water. mixture. Sprinkle Sprinkle pastry. Fill full with with the the mixture. flaky pastry. Fill two-thirds fiaky two-thirds full l5 minutes. about 15 in aa hot oven oven for about and bake in with fine fine sugar sugar and witb

nppeRnlrs MIXTURES. APPAREILSMIXTURES. la russe. russe. for hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'cuwe àir la cheese mixture mixture for Cream cheese Cream pressed creamed creamed from pressed Prepared from TwARocuE -- Prepared AeIARETL TWAROGUE APPAREIL quantity of fresh butter, blended of fresh butter, blended mixed with with an an equal guantity cheese mixed cbeese smooth. until it isis very smooth. pol,ttvtss DE I POMMFS DE TERRE TERRE potato mixture. APPAREIL À mixture. APPAREIL Dauphine potato Dauphine (see POT mixed with with potatoes (see POTATOES) DAUrHINE -- Duchess Duchess potatoes DAUPHINE ATOES) mixed (see DOUGH) in the prepared without without sugar, sugar, in the paste (see DOUGH) prepared Chou paste parts duchess paste to part chou duchess chou paste to three three parts proportion of of one one part proportion potatoes. potatoes. pouuns DE DE TERRE TERRE A POMMFS potato mixture. APPAREIL À mixture. APPAREIL Duchess potato Duchess (See POT pur6e bound with eggs. POTATOES.) eggs. (See nucHrsse -- Pota Potato to purée ATOES.) DUCHESSE ,q.ppa.nrrn ÀA croquettes. APPAREILS and croquettes. for kromeskies kromeskies and Mixtures for Mixtures mixtures, which which are are These mixtures, A CROQUETTFS cnoeurrrEs -- These cRoMEseurs, À CROMESQUIS, more one or or more preparations, are are composed composed of of one for both both preparations, similar for similar white mixture mixture for aa white dice, blended blended for into small small dice, cut into ingredients, cut ingredients, yolks added (see SAUCE) added to it, with egg egg yolks to it, Veloutd sauce sauce (see SAUCE) with wirh Velouté with (see SAUCE) Bechamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) with Béchamel mixture with for aa brown brown mixture or for or jelly) or (meat jelly) stock. brown stock. or thickened thickened brown rich demi-glace demi-glace (meat with rich with Mixture of ,c MAINTENON I\,IA,INTENoN -- Mixture of APPAREIL À mixture. APPAREIL Maintenon mixture. (see (see PURÉE) Bichamel sauce sauce (see and thick thick Béchamel soubise (see PUREE) and Onion soubise Onion yolks, incorporating incorporating sliced sliced or or with egg egg yolks, bound with SAUCE), bound SAUCE), and in butter, truffies, and butter, truffles, cooked in mushrooms cooked shredded mushrooms shredded (see OFF VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). or VARIETY Pickled tongue OFFAL tongue (see Pickled AL or Vegetables cut cut A MATIGNON uertcNoN -- Vegetables AIPAREIL À Matignon mixture. mixture. APPAREIL Matignon pan in ham, in butter butter with with ham, in aa covered covered pan cooked in in thin thin slices, slices, cooked in (See MATIGNON.) MATIGNON.) mixed with with Madeira. Madeira. (See and then then rillxed and for various various ingredient for This isis used as aa supplementary supplementary ingredient used as This la Matignon. Matignon. fried dishes dishes àd la for braised and fried mixtures, also also for braised and mixtures,

(AtD -- Descriptive term eggs baked in tbe the oven oven MIROIR (AU) term for eggs MIROJR yolk. ItIt isis polished film film over over the the yolk. forms aa polished so that the the white white forros so that which have have aa dishes which loosely applied applied to to other other dishes also also more more loosely (See EGG, Baked eggs miroir.) EGG, Baked eggs au au miroir.) mirror-bright finish. finish. (See mirror-bright meat and and from cooked cooked meat made from stew made MIROTON -- Type Type of of stew with onions. f1avoured flavoured with onions. called dish isis called books this this dish French recipe recipe books In old French In aa number of of old also of meat disb but also of dish but of aa meat not only only of was used used not mironton, and was mironton, and with fruit. fruit. made with dishes dishes made of beef. BEEF, Miroton Miroton ofbeef. preparation of mirotonsee For see BEEF, of miroton For the the preparation called DRAINE -- Species of tbrush thrush called Species of MISSEL THRUSH. THRUSH. DRAINE MISSEL mistletoe berries. Its berries. Its feeds on on mistletoe missel thrush thrush because because itit feeds missel and itit isis common th thrush, plumage isis darker that of of the the common darker than than that plumage rush, and (q.v.). way as as thrush longer. It It isis cooked in the same way thrush (g.v.). cooked in the same longer.

Mission Haut-Brion Haut-Brion WINE -- Mission MISSION HAUT-BRION HAUT-BRION WINE MISSION region. They They Bordeaux region. oldest of of the the Bordeaux vineyards are are among among the the oldest vineyards Graves. commune of of Graves. are situated situated in in tbe the Pessac Pessac commune are 593 593

MOCHA Meringue AnrAREIL À A MERINGUE MnRlNcue oRDTNATRE Meringue mixture. mixture. APPAREiL ORDINAIRE -g. (18 oz., Whisk stifffroth. Whisk 8 egg whites into a very sti.ff froth. Add 500 g. 2f cups) slightly moistened sugar sugar to 2! cups) to the mixture, folding it gently with aa wooden spoon. spoon. proportion of The of egg egg whites for the can be The proportion whites for the meringue cao increased. eggwhites increased. Up to 12 egg whites for 500 g. (18 oz., 2f 2t cups) of sugar can be used. used. ArIAREIL A uERtNcur TTALIENNE Italian meringue meringue mixture. mixture. APPAR.EiL À MERINGUE ITALIENNE 8 egg egg whites stiff. Make Whisk 8 whites until until very very stiff. Make a a syrup syrup of -- Whisk (18 oz., 500 2f cups) sugar and oz., 2* and I1 cup 500 g. g. (18 cup water water cooked to tzt"c. 121°C. (250"F.). (250°F.). Pour this syrup syrup in a thin thread on the egg egg whites, whisking whites, whisking vigorously throughout this operation. operation. Italian AIeAREIL À e uenrNcun ltalian meringue mixture mixture en genoise. genoL"e. APPAREIL MERINGUE g. (18 oz., TTALIENNE Blend 500 GENorsE -- Siend 500 g. 2f cups) oz., 2i cups) sugar ITALIENNE EN EN GENOISE whites in a copper copper pan ona whisking until and 8 egg whites on a hot plate plate whisking consistency when il it can be held the mixture held on the mixture reaches reaches aa consistency whisk. This meringue can can be kept in a bowl bowl for a time. Coyer Cover it This a time, with a circle of paper. paper.

Mirepoix A narnspox cut l\IUrepoix mixture. mixture. AIIAREIL APPAREIL À MIREPOIX - Vegetables eut (q.v.), depending on the use en bruMise .), the degrce nneness depending m brunoise (q.v degree of of fineness lean ham ham or which it is is intended. Very small pieces pieces of lean for which bacon lightly cooked cooked in butter butter are added. (See MIREPOIX.) bacon as aa supplementary This is This is used ingredient for for sauces, used as supplementary ingredient and various forcemeats and variolls mixtures; it is also also used forcemeats used for braised and fried dishes àd Ia la Mirepoix. and fried (Semolina kasha) -$emolJna mixture mixture for hot pies pies ài la russe (Semolina Semolina See See KASHA.

MIXTURES MIXTURES FOR FOR SWEET DISHES. SWEET DISHES.

APPARAEII.S APPARAEILS POUR

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ENTREMETS ENTREMFTS -

mixture. AppAREIL APPAREIL A À slvAnon BAVAROIS - A A mixture of Bavarois mixture. gelatine, variously English custard and and dissolved gelatine, variously flavoured, f1avoured, (See BAVAROIS.) it. (See BA VAROIS.) with whipped cream added to il. Butter cream mixture. AppAR-ErL APPAREIL A A CREME BEURR[lcniMs AU BEURRE - This mixture, which which is is used in the various cold used in preparation of various the preparation gdteaux, praline, gdteaux, pastry desserts desserts (coffee (coffee gâteaux, praline, chocolate gâteaux, etc.), is made with 28° fresh butter, or 28" syrup, egg yolks, and and fresh while it was butter has been added while which fresh butter with custard custard to [0 which still warm. (See CREAMS.) AU CARAMELCaramel crearn AppAREIL À A CRÈME cniur AU CARAMEL cream mixture. mixture. APPAREIL eggs, sugar, and the the flavouring A f1avouring chosen, A mixture of eggs, sugar, milk and (q.v.) in in aa mould coated with with light cooked in aa bain-marie (q.v.) mould coated Caramel eus/ord.) custard.) caramel. ARD, Caramel CUSTARD, caramel. (See CUST pArn pasfi mixture. APPAREiL prff pastry A PÂTE APPAREIL À Chou paste or cream puff À for making cakes of various A CHOU This mixture is lIsed used for cnou -- This preparation 6clairs, etc. etc. and and also for the preparation kinds, cream cream buns, ecJairs, of fri Hers, gnocchi, profteroles, profiteroles, such as soufflé soufl6 fritters, of various dishes, such DOUGH.) etc. (See DOUGR.) 250 g. Condé Ingrediellls. 250 AIeAREIL À A CONDÉ coNof -- Ingredients. Cond6 mixture. mixture. APPAREIL (9 oz.,2f g.03 (9 oz., 2i cups) chopped (13 oz., 3 cups) fine chopped almonds, 375 g. vanilla. sugar, egg whites, powdered vanilla. and vanilla into aa bowl. the sugar, Method. Put Put the sugar, almonds and quantity to in sufficient quantiry to make Moisten white, in make an Moisten with egg white, (See CONDÉ.) CONDE.) easily spreadable, spreadable, non-runny paste. (See pastries. various dessert pastries. mixture is used for icing variolls This mixture pArIsA CREME cniur PÂTIS· cream mixlure. mixture. AreAREIL French pastry cream APPAREIL À Frendr pastry diluting cooked to a fi firm consistency, made by diluting SIÈRE an consistency, Cream cooked sdns -- Cream and sugar, with boiled flour and with flour sugar, with egg boiled milk egg yolks blended with CREAMS.) flavoured as desired. (See CREAMS.) SAINTmixture. APPAREIL AppAREIL .i, cnim SAINTCrème À cmŒ Saint-Honor6 mixture. Crime Saint-Honoré egg whites noNonf -- Mixwre Mixture of French pastry cream cream with egg HONORÉ cooking. (See foam, added added while while itit is still cooking. bcaten to aa stiff is still stifl foam, beaten to sweet dishes. CREAMS.) Used Used for various sWeet AIrAREIL ÀA cRtr.œ cnirvm ANGLAISE ANGLAISE -custard mixture. mixfure. APPAREil.. EngJish English custard (18 oz., g. (18 16 egg made of 500 g. cups) fine fine sugar, sugar, 16 oz., 44 cups) Custard made (lf pints, generous quart) quart) boiled yolks, 1 litre pints, generous flavoured litre (Li boiled f1avoured yolks, constantly, unti! until the the nrst first m..ilk. the srove, milk. Cook Cook on on the stove, stirring constantly, sign of boiling. name of of English under the This custard custard is is also also known under This the name as an alone, but is more often served served as served alo"ne, sauce. sauce. It can be served accompaniment to puddings. accompaniment gelatine, dissolved with gelatine, dissolved in aa little cold JI be blended It can can be blended with (l? (l oz.) g. (1 powdered gelatine gelatine to litre (J~ 25 g. to 1I litre water; water; allow 25 oz) powdered pints, generous quart). recipe. This custard pe. custard is served hot or cold, as indicated in the reci (See CREAMS.) nsNvrnsEn -AppAREIL À A CRÈME cniMe RENVERSf""E Custard mould mixture. APPAREIL mould mixtnre. (Ifi pints, Mixture prepared prepared like English custard, using 1I litre (li quart) boiled milk, 4 who whole generous quart) le eggs, 77 egg yolks, and (7 oz., well. g. (7 fine sugar. Blend the ingredients weil. 200 g. Hcups) fine oz.,l| A SOUFflÉ Aux mUlTS FRUITS -Fruit soufflé AppAREIL À sourr# AUX mixture. APPAREIL Fruit soufr6 mixture. (9 oz., pan to g. (9 cup) sugar in in aa copper pan Cook Cook 250 g. oz, generous cup) (see SUGAR). Add 200 fruit 200 g. oz., seant scant cup) fruit crack stage (see Q oz., e. (7 through aa sieve. sieve. pulp, rubbed through gradually on on 5 egg Bring the to bail ball stage. stage. Pour it gradually the syrup to very stiff souffi6. whites whisked into aa very froth. Bake like aa soufflé. stifffroth.

MOCHA. MoKAVariety of coffee bean grown in Mocha in MOCHA. MOKA - Variety

Arabia. These fragrant roasted rather less than Arabia. These fragrant beans beans are are roasted rather less (han and Martinique, which are blended those of R6union Réunion Island lsland and bJended in the coffee commonly commonly used used in France. generally served mocha is Coffee made is generally served in Coffee made from from pure pure mocha cups, smaller than those used used for ordinary coffee. special Cups, Mocha cArsAU MoKA by covering Mocha cake. MOKA -- Cake made by cake. GÂTEAU Cake made layers of cake, made from best Genoese mixture, mixture, with butter cream Put one with mocha. one layer of cake spread cream flavoured Ravoured with mac ha. Put with mocha cream on top of the other. Ice with mocha-flavoured fondant icing or mochalce with mocha-flavoured fondant icing or flavoured Ravoured butter butter cream. Decorate the iced ieed cake by piping piping the cream through aa fluted nozzle onto the same icing or cream Ruted nozzle the sides and top. Mocha cream. AU MOKA MoKA -- Custard flavoured with cream. CRÈME cRiltE AU essence. Butter can al50 with coffee essence. Butter cream cream can also be be flavoured coffee Ravoured witb mocha. (see CREAMS) used choux used for filling cholLY creun (see French pastry pastr...: cream coffee. Mocha and éclairs may be with mocha colree. Mocha is and be flavoured ftavoured wîth 6clairs may Chantilly cream. sometimes added to Chamilly sometimes with unadulMocha EssENcB DE MoKA -- Made Made with Mocha essence. l'.SSENCE DE MOKA as any terated roasted mocha coffee infused in teralcd in the same way as other coffee essence. coffee filter Put in the upper of aa large compartment of upper compartment Put in the large coffee (7 OZ., g. (7 ground coffee. cups) freshly and ground 200 o2.,2$ cups) 200 g. f reshly roasted roasted and (scant pint, 2~ at aa time, Pour time, 5 dl. dl. (scant 2| cups) Pour onto this, this, aa little at in advance, and and poured on on hot very strong coffee prepared in but not boiling. in hot water. During Durîng this tbis process the filter should stand in also be made with skimmed milk, but Coffee essence can also but ice cream is ta flavour creams creams or iee cream mixto be only if if it is be used used to flavour (scant essence, completely skirn tures. To make Ihis this essence, skim 55 dl. dl. (seant tures. Ta (7 oz., pint, g. (7 cups) milk. milk. Bring to 200 g. pint, 2f, 2~ cups) to the boil. boil. Put Put in in 200 oz, 2j cups) cups) f03Sted roasted caffee, coffee, still hot and with aa rollingand crushed wîth 2i for 15 cloth. Leave to infuse for the container with aa clotho pin. Cover the minutes. ice cream. Ice cream cream flavoured cream. GLACE cLAcE AU MoKA -- Iee Mocha ice AU MOKA Coffee with mocha witb mocba coffee. (See ICE CREAMS AND ICES, ColJee ice cream.)

2t

MOCHATINE CAKES. Drorlrrws -- lndividual Individual portions of CAKES. MOKATll'iE MOCHATINE mocha cake cake or mixture, or petits pet ilS fours made from best Genoese mixture, cream and filled with mocha-flavoured butter cream and iced iced wilh 611ed with mocha-flavoured butter with mocha-flavoured mocha-flavoured fondant icing. porAGE FAUSSE (English cookery). POTAGE MOCK TURTLE SOUP (EngUsh (See SOUPS made with with calf's head. SOUPS AND AND head. (See - Soup made BROTHS.)

roRrrJE TORTUE

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MONTMAUR MONTMAUR (A LA) MODE (À given mainly f,.q,) -- Name Name given mainly to large cuts cuts of to large of braised braised MODE (See BEEF, beef. (See BEEF, Top Top ofrump of rump àd la la mode.) mode.) beef.

Monbazillac, aa small commune inin the small commune the Dordogne Dordogne88km. km. (5(5 Monbazillac, miles) from from Bergerac. Bergerac. AA ministerial ministerial decree 1936 lays lays decree of ofMay May 1936 miles) down the the boundaries boundaries of the Monbazillac Monbazillac vineyards. vineyards. Wine Wine of the down grown beyond may not beyond these these boundaries boundaries may not bear grown bear the thename name Monbazillac. Monbazillac.

MOISTENING. MOUILLEMENTuounrruux-r-Moistening process of the process of MOISTENING. Moistening isis the adding aa liquid liquid of of sorne some kind kind to ragofits, stews, to ragoûts, stews, braised braised meat, meat, adding poultry, etc. fish or or poultry, etc. fish The term term isis applied applied to to the the broth, broth, consommé consomm6 stock, stock, wine, wine, The etc., used used in in this this way. way. etc.,

MONSELET -- The The autbor author Charles Charles Monselet Monselet was was born MONSELET bom atat Nantes in in 1828 1828 and and died in 1888. 1888. He He was died inin Paris Paris in was one Nantes of the the one of well-known writers writers of his day. of his day. well-known He was great gastronome, gastronome, or, was also also aa great poet more exactly, exactly, aapoet He or, more gastronomy, for of gastronomy, for he he wrote pleasant poems poems on of wrote aa number number of of pleasant on good things the good published several gastrothings of He published the of tbe the table. table. He severalgastronomic works, works, among gouramong them nomic them being being the the Almanach Almanach des des gourgourmandes and mands, the poitique. He the Lettres Lettres gourmandes and Cuisinière mands, Cuisiniire poétique. He also wrote wrote aa large large number also number of cooking. of sonnets sonnets on oncooking.

MOLASSES. MÉLASSE ufussn -- Thick Thick brownish brownish substance substance which which isis MOLASSES. residue of the residue refining. ItIt will of sugar sugar refining. will not crystallise. not crystallise. the Sugar cane quite aa pleasant pleasant smell cane molasses molasses has has quite smell and and taste, taste, Sugar and isis used used in in the the distillation distillation of generally known of tafia, tafia, generally known as as and rum, aa name name once once used only of used only of the the spirit spirit distilled distilled from from cane cane rum, juice, the the natural naturaljuioe cane. ofthe sugar cane. juice of the sugar juice,

MOLLUSCS. COQUILLAGES coeunrAcEs -- Univalve Univalve or or bivalve bivalve edible edible MOLLUSCS. all are are of marine origin; of marine origin; the the snail snail isis the the one one mollusc. Nearly ail land mollusc that eaten. that isis eaten. land Many types types are eaten raw, raw, sprinkled are eaten sprinkled with with aa !ittle little lemon lemon Many juice or vinegar. Molluscs or vinegar. garnish for Molluscs are are used as aa garnish for numerous used as numerous juice especially for for fish. fish. dishes, especially Some molluscs molluscs can cause poisoning and can cause and infectious diseases diseases Sorne but the the majority of caught in of tbose those caught in c1ear clear water water can can be conbe conbut danger. sumed without danger. (q.v.) hold Oysters (q.v.) place by hold first first place by reason reason of of their their delicate delicate Oysters taste and and substance. substance. They They are easily digested are easily digested and and have have the taste the advantage of being consumed alive. being able able to to be possible be consumed alive. It It isis possible advantage quantity of oysters witbout without loss loss of appetite; of appetite; ty of to eat a very large quanti an equivalent equivalent quantity of of meat meat with lower nutritive far lower with aa far an would bring about satiety. quantity of satiety. The The quantity of diluted diluted sea value would sea mineralizing element of water which oysters contain isis aa minera!izing the of the first order. perhaps richer in in food food value value than oysters, Mussels (q.v.), perhaps oysters, are rather rather more more difficult difficult to to digest. digest. They They are are usually are usually eaten cooked. (q.v.) shellfish, scallops scallops (q. Among the other shellfish, v.) deserve deserve aa place apart. They have aa Bavour flavour approaching approaching that of lobster. apart.

(A LA) given to great many MONSELET (À MONSELET Name given LA) -- Name to aa great many dishes dishes which contain contain artichoke which artichoke hearts hearts and and truffles, potatoes trufles, with with potatoes fried in in butter butter where where appropriate. appropriate. fried

MONSIEUR FROMAGE FROMAGE -- See MONSIEUR See CHEESE. CHEESE. MONT-BLANC -- See MONT-BLANC See CHESTNUTS. CHESTNUTS. MONT-BRY -- See MONT-BRY See GARNISHES. GARNISHES. MONT-CENIS -- See MONT-CENIS See CHEESE. CHEESE.

MONTE-CRISTO Montpensier MONTE-CRISTO gdteau isis often Montpensier gâteau often called called by by this given under this name. name. The The recipe recipe for for this this cake cake isis given under MONTMONTPENSIER. PENSIER. MONTGLAS MONTGLAS -- Salpicon Salpicon àd la la Montglas Montglas isis made made from ftom foie foie gras, pickled pickled tongue, gras, tongue, truffies and mushrooms mushrooms blended truffies and blended in in (see Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) ftavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. This This salpicon as aa filling salpicon isis used for very used as filling for very small vol-au-vent, smalT vol-au-vent, tartlets pastry cases. tartlets and and other cases. other pastry MONTHÉLIEMONTIIELIE- Red Red Burgundy produced in Burgundy wine in Monthélie wine produced Month6lie (north of (north (See BURVolnay) in in the of Volnay) the Côte C6te de de Beaunne. Beaunne. (See BURGUNDY.) MONTMAUR -- Pierre Pierre de great French Montmaur was de Montmaur was aa great French scholar scholar and and aa distinguished Hellenist. He distinguished Hellenist. He was was born in about bom in about 1576 at B6taille, a village of at Bétaille, of Bas-Limousin Bas-Limousin between Tulle and between Tulle and Brive. He He became aa professor professor of of Greek Greek at at Paris in 1623, 1623, and and Paris in died died in in 1648. 1648. Montmaur was Id (a sponger was mean, mean, parasitic (a sponger as as we we wou would say say today) today) and and also also aa slanderer. slanderer. Because Because of of this this he he made many enemies. enemies. Among these was was Ménage, M6nage, aa French French literary literary

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MONACO consomm6 is is aa clear chicken broth MONACO - Monaco consommé thickened with garnish of with aa special special garnish of small with arrowroot, with rounds of cake mixture made with cheese. Monaco cream soup is cream of chicken soup soup served is aa cream with the same garnish. MONBAZILLAC wine, very very rich and somewhat MONBAZILLAC -- White wine, rich and somewhat similar It is grapes grown Sauternes. It made from from grapes grown at is made similar to to Sauternes.

Main types of edible molluscs: 1. Common oyster (huître); 2. Portuguese oyster; 3. and 4. Mussels (moules); 5. Clam; 6. and 7. Clovisse; 8. Praire; 9. and 10. Cockles (coques); Il. Lavigoon; 12. Vernis; 13. Fléon; 14. Razor shell; 15. and 16. Scallops (coquille Saint-Jacques); 17. Amande-de-mer; 18. Dosinie exolele; 19. Ormer; 20. Winkle; 21. Whelk; 22. Limpet

595 595

MONTMORENCY Pound Pound the the almonds almonds finely finely in a mortar, adding the water. Put them them in in a bowl. Add the the sugar, vanilla and the the butter, butter, previously previously melted. melted. Mix Mix well weil and add add the the stiffiy beaten egg egg whites a little little at aa time. time. Roll Roll out the the sweetened dough and lay lay itit on aa flan flan ring ring 20 20 to 25 cm. (8 (8 to 10 10 inches) inches) in diameter. Press Press it well weil down into into the ring, making making sure sure that that itit is firmly finnly attached attached to the sides. sides. A A pie pie dish dish may may be be used llSed as as a a substitute substitute for for the the ring ring and and baking baking sheet. In this this case case the the tart tart is served in the dish. Trim Trîm the edge cdge with with a knife. Prick the bottom bottom of the flan with the point of a knife. knife. Pour Pour the filling into the flan. Sprinkle Sprinkle with fine sugar sugar and and bake bake in a slow oven oyen for 45 minutes. A few seconds before the flan flan is cooked, turn tum it it out. Put itil back in the oven oyen to brown the sides. Sprinkle once more with wùh fine sugar, and leave to cool before serving. serving.

figure (1613-1692), tutor to Marc Marc de de S6vign6, Sévigné, who averred figure Montmaur had had above all ail been been a teacher of adulation adulation that Montmaur and cookery. cookery. 'He gave gave his his lessons in flattery in the morning morning and and his his cookery cookery lessons les sons in the the evening.' M6nage Ménage said that that Montmaur, Montmaur, in his his theories theories of cookery, gave an inflated inflated importance importance to the position of of the chef. He tallght that anyone anyone who aspired to become become an expert in this taught important important branch branch of human human knowledge should first first study the science science of government, government, medicine, painting, astrology, astrology, the architecture and arithmetic, and gave specious specious and absurd architecture reasons for this. 'It is necessary for the the chef chef to consider consider with care the place, ti me, the guests guests and the host; it is necessary necessa ry for him to be the time, though he were directing dirccting a battle. He able to direct a meal as though has to be versed versed in chemical analysis, so so as as to distinguish distinguish has between wholesome and and dangerous foodstuffs, foodstuffs, and and those those between of heat. He has to be able, [ess resistant resistant to the action of more or less like a painter, pain ter, to make attractive designs and blend colours with skill, and so on.'

MONTRACI{ETMONTRACHET - One of of the great great wine-growing wine-growing localities localities of of the the C6te Côte de de Beaune, Beaune, distinguished dîstinguished by by an an appellation of contr6lie and situated partly partly in in the the commune of conlrôlee spiciale spéciale and Puligny, Puligny, partly in that of Chassagne. It Il produces one of the greatest greatest dry dry white white wines, wines, with with a a bouquet bouquet reminiscent reminiscent of

given to to a Name given a variety of cherry MONTMORENCY -- Name

fresh fresh almonds. In the best best vintage years this this wine matures wonderfully well. weIl. of neighThe name The narne Montrachet enters enters into Înto the the names narnes of bouring appellations; Puligny-Montrachet, Chevalier-MonChevalier-Mon-

cultivaled in the neighbourhood neighbourhood of Paris. Paris. cultivated

LA) -- Name MONTMORENCY (A (À LA) Name givor given to tO various

cherries added added to all of which sweets, ail which have cherries dishes, cakes or sweets, d Ia example: Duck another. For or another. them in in one forro or For example: Duck à la them one form (thin slices of breast) of of Rouen Montmorencl Montmorency;) aiguillettes (thin duck with cherries, cherries, called Montmorency; cherry ice cream,

trachet, trachet, Bitard-Montrachet, Bâtard-Montrachet, Bienvenues-Bitard-MontraBienvenues-Bâtard-Montrachet, Criots-Bâ Criots-B0tard-Montrachet, chet, ta rd-M ontracnet, Chassagne-Montrachet Chassagne-M ontrachet (See BURGUNDY.) (which also produces produces fine red wines). (See BURGUNDY.)

cherries, called called Montmorency; called Montmorency; iced iced mousse mousse with with cherries, called Montand tartlets, cherry tarts Montmorency; tarts and tartlets, called Montmorency; cherry morency. on cRÈME cntur ÀA BORDURE DE Border of cream ili la Montmorency. BoRDUnr (ring) mould mould with Fill aa turbao turban (ring) LA MONTMORENCY -- Fill with rich rich LA MoNrMoRENcy in aa saucepan saucepan of cook in with kirsch and and cook custard flavoured custard f1avoured with Turn out on a dish. Fill the middle with with water. Leave to cool. Tum poached in in syrup with kirsch. syrup flavoured flavoured with cherries, poached stoned stoned cherries, (see CREAMS) into a cre(nn (see CREAMS) shaped ioto Chantilly cream Mask with Mask with Chantilly large stoned cherries cooked in with large stoned cherries and decorated decorated wlth dome and syrup. cArnau MONTMORENCY MoNTMoRENcY -- Cook Cook some Montnorency cake. GÂTEAU Montmorency jam and mix mix with with cherry jam in syrup. Drain and cherries in syrup. Drain stoned stoned cherries flavoured with kirsch. fiavoured (see DOUGH) make make aa round batter (see Using best best Genoese batter Using cherry mixture. mixture. Coyer with the the cherry Cover the the cherries cherries cake. Spread Spread with cake. (see MIXTURES). meringue (see MIXTURES). Smooth Smooth the virth Ita/ian ltalian meringue with decorate with meringue piping. and decorate meringue and oven. Decorate Sprinkle with icing sugar and brown in the oyen. lightly sprinkled cake with with cherries, cherries, lightly sprinkled with the top of the the cake top of the sugar.

MOOSE or ELK. ORIGNAL oRIGNAL -- The largest MOOSE la rgest member mem ber of the deer is comparable comparable to of Canadian Canadian moose The flesh family. The family. flesh of moose is It is prepared like deer. venison. It (18 oz., g. (18 (Belgian PAtisserie) 4| cups) oz., 4i 500 g. MOQUE (Belgian MOQUE Pâtisserie) -- 500 ln the flour in aa ring on the table. table. In the middle put 4 or 55 sieved f10ur riog on pinch of pinch of bicarbonate of soda, aa pinch of cloves, aa pioch crushed c1oves, crushed (4 oz., g. (4 oz.,1",tp) salt, 100 g. ! cu p) moist brown sugar, the same weight (ll oz., g. (II oz.,lf of melted molasses and 300 g. li cups) butter. little at in aa little at aa time. flour in Mix thoroughly, working the Mix the flour of a long sausage. Stand it Roll the dough into the shape ofa it in in aa and leave overnight. cool place and (* inch) 'sausage' into slices 1-* cm. cm. (t cut the dough 'sausage' Next day, eut little, on on aa spaced out out aa little, Put these these rounds of dough, spaced thick. Put thick. buttered baking sheet. oven. Bake in aa moderate oyen. Rome speak speak ancient Rome The histories of ancient Iuunixr MORAY. MURE NE -- The gourmets of Imperial imperial fish. Wealthy gourmets enthusiasm of this 6sh. with enthusiasm grew more succuflesh grew Rome, itit îs is said, said, bred bred moray, whose flesh Rome, grounds which were mainin the lent in the magnificent breeding grounds lent great expense. expense. at great tained at an eel eel in appearappearis somewhat somewhat similar The moray, which îs similar to an The prepared is prepared is a carnivorous carnivorous fish of extreme voracity. It is ance, is ance, (q.v.). as eel eel (q.v.). same in the sa me way as

snuRRE DE DE MO~TPELLIER MoNrpEI.rmn -- A BUTTER. BEURRE MONTPELLIER BUTTER. green, used and in the the presentation and used in coloured green, butter, coloured fancy butter. edible, but This butteris butter is edible, but itit is cold dishes. dishes. This decoration of of cold decoration (See for food. (See decoration rather [han than for intended primarily for decoration butters.) BUTTER, Compound bUflers.) BUTIER,

in the found in the spring spring MoRILLE -- Name of of aa fungus fungus found MOREL. MORILLE MOREL. most There are species, the the most woods. There are various species, on the the fringe of woods. on in pized being morels found found in little black black pointed morels highly prized being the the liule highly (See MUSHROOM.) MUSHROOM.) mountainous country. country. (See mountainous waters and and prepare for in several several waters for cooking, cooking, lrim, trim, wasb wash in To prepare To interstices of of the the dirt in in the the interstices very carefully remove any dirt carefully rem very ove aoy pan in aa covered covered pan in butter in honeycombed caps. caps. Sim Simmer honeycombed mer them in large, divide divide morels are are large, as cèpes. cipes. When When the in the way as the morels the same same way in quarters before Morels can can also also cooking. Morels before cooking. in halves or or quarters them in them case in butter. In this this case butter. In simmering them them in without first first simmering fried without be fTied be washing. must be dried after after washing. they must be thoroughly thoroughly dried they

MONTPENSIER -- See GARNISHES. See GARNISHES. MONTPENSIER (9 oz., g. (9 MONTPENSIER (Pâti~rie) For the the dough. dough.250 oz., MONTPENSIER 250 g. @fltisserie) -- For (4 oz., g. (4 g. (4 125 g. 125 g. 2f cups) cups) sifted flour, 125 cup) sugar, sugar, 125 oz., sifted flour, oz., 1-{ cup) 2± @ oz., whole eggs. eggs. l* cup) butter, 2 whole ".rp) (4 oz., g. (4 scant cu For the thefilling.125 cup) almonds, oz., scant blanched al For filling. 125 g. p) blanched monds. (9 oz., g. (2 generous cup) g. (9 250 g. cup) sugar, 50 g. cup) butter, sugar, 50 oz., I cup) oz., generous 250 Q oz.,! (+ pint, pint, seant powdered vanilla, vanilla, 2 dl. scant cup) cup) water, water, dl. (~ 1I teaspoon powdered egg whites. whites. 55 egg flour in in aa ring ring on on the table. Put Put the the sugar, sugar, butter butter Sieve the flour the table. Sieve quickly and, in the Mix quickly and, when when the and eggs eggs in the middle. Mi;.: the dough dough isis and good consistency, Leave to consistency, knead knead into into aa hall. to stand stand while of aa good ball. Leave of prepared as filling isis prepared as folJows: follows: the fiJling the

cherry isis This species species of of cherry cnlorrs -- This CHERRY. GRIOTTE MORELLO CHERRY. .MORELLO pulp, The pulp, and itit has has aa tough tough skin. skin. The red or almost black and dark rcd or almost dark bitter. is finn and sweetish, sweetish, but but sometimes sometimes bitter. which isis rOO, red, is firm and which

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MOUSSES and should should be eaten in the places where delicately flavoured, and transported. it is caught, as it deteriorates when transported. All AIl recipes for whiting (q.v.) are suitable.

MOTHE-SAINT-HERAYE - See CHEESE. CHEESE. MOTHE-SAINT-HÉRAYE-

VINEGAR. MÈRE uinn DE DE VINAIGRE vINATcRE -- A OF VINEGAR. A thick, MOTHER OF forms during during the acidulation of wine, corrugated film which fonns mycoderma acet;. aceti. of mycoderma as a result of the action of

Morels Morels (Kollar\ (Ko/lar)

ruourloN -- Name given to various breeds of MOUFFLON. MOUFLON mouffion which is the parent stock wild sheep. The European European moufflon, of the the domestic domestic sheep, sheep, is is mainly found in Sardinia and of mainly found in Sardinia Corsica, where it is known known as mufione mufione or mufoli. mufoli.The African The African cuffed an ordinary sheep. moffion is about the the size size of an sheep. The is about cuffed moufflon ram, is is aa slender American mou/flon, mouffion, also also called called mountain ram, legs. Its horns, which in the male are animal with very long legs. very large and and form and thick, come right down to the eyes, and an almost complete spiral. Its coat, short and wiry, is brown in colour. All animals are edible. Their meat is very similar to Ali these these animais cooking in in any way, way, moufflon mouffion that of the chamois. Before cooking that marimeat must be an aromatic aromatic maribe steeped for aa long time in an ragofit or civet. All nade. can be civet. Ali nade. It can be roasted roasted or made made into aa ragoût moufflon. recipes for mutton and and roebuck are suitable for mouflon.

All of cherries Ali recipes for the preparation preparation of cherries are suitable for morello cherries. (See CHERRY.) CHERRY.) MORINGA -- The The Ben-nut tree, tree, or the Horseradish tree, tree, a shrub native of of Egypt. The frui fruitt of of hazel-nuts, yield an of this tree, about the size of oil greatly valued valued in perfumery. The pods, pods, when fresh fresh and and very ripe, ripe, are edible. They are called called desert desert dates.

MORNAY (A of preparing certain food, (À LA) LA) -- Method Method of preparing certain principally fish. fish. All Ali dishes dishes àd la la Mornay are are covered covered with

receptacle made in different different MOULE Hollow receptacle made in MoULE -- Hollow in cooking cooking and and conmaterials and different materials and used in different shapes, shapes, used

MOULD. MOULD.

Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

MORTADELLA. UonTADELLE sausage of MORTADELLE -- A large type of sausage Italian origin. The mortadel/a has the origin. The mortadella of Bologna Bologna has the highest highest

fectionery. fectionery.

MOULDING. MOULAGE putting a liquid or MOULDING. uourecr-- The process of puttinga

reputation. Mortadella sausages also made sausages are also made in in France, France, notably notably in Lyons and Paris. Paris. These are excellent. excellent. They are served, thinly sliced, as an hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre.

semi-liquid semi-liquid in aa mould, whose shape it takes when it sets or thickens either by congealing or cooking. cooking. In former fonner times, moulded plinths were much used used for the presentation of disappeared of cold dishes, but this practice has disappeared today.

MORTAR. MORT AR. MoRTIERMORTIER - Bowl made of of marble, stone, metal or wood in which forcemeats and and other mixtures are pounded or mixed using using a pestle made of of hard ha rd wood.

MOULIN-A-VEWf MOULIN-À-VENT -- a A famous famous wine-growing wine-growing district in the Saône-et-Loire département of Its red red wines, Beaujolais. Its Sa6ne-et-Loire ddpartement of Beaujolais. than most Beaujolais wines, stronger and and more full-bodied than young and are distinctive in and also are in being being delicious when young delicious when capable of maturing graciously, graciously, especially those those of of good BURGUNDY, BEAUJOLAIS.) vintage years. (See BURGUNDY, BEAUJOLAIS.)

MOSCOVITE MOSCOVffE -- Sweets Sweets d à la la moscovite moscovite are prepared in are prepared various various ways. Cold Cold moscovites moscovites are are similar similar to to bavarois bavarois (Bavarian (Bavarian creams). creams). Moscovites, Moscovites, however, are different different in that they are usually made in aa hexagonal mould with a a hinged lid lid and embedded embedded in crushed crushed ice and salt. The name moscovite is also used used of an an iced iced bombe with with kummel kummel and almonds, and of of an ice pudding pudding flavoured with vanilla, vanilla, also made in a hexagonal hexagonal mould. In this case the ice cream is made with a hole in the centre which is filled filled with fresh fruit and Chantilly crecun cream (see CREAMS). Moscovite jellies jellies are are made with with fruit fruit or or liqueurs liqueurs in in a hermetically hermetically sealed sealed mould and and embedded embedded in ice ice and and salt. The The distinctive distinctive feature feature of of these these jellies jellies is is that that they they are covered with a frosting of rime. covered Fruit moscovite. moscovite. uoscovrrE MOSCOVITE Aux AUX FRUrrs FRUITS - Rub through a fine fine sieve enough fruit to produce 8 dl. dl. (l+ (It pints, pints, lf, li pints) pulp. Add Add 300 g. g. (ll (II oz., oz., lf Jt cups) sugar and and 20 g. g. (| (i oz.) gelatine put it to set on ice, gelatine dissolved in water. Mix well weil and put constantly. Flavour with kirsch. kirsch. stirring constantly. When it begins to set, add 6 dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2| 2i cups) very stiffiy stiffly Fi Il a moscovite mould. mould. Close it, whipped fresh cream. Mix. Fill litt le butter round the rim of of the lid to ensure that and rub a little hennetically sealed. it is hermetically Put Put the the mould mould in in a bucket on on a bed of of crushed crushed ice sprinkled sprinkled Surround and and cover coyer with more crushed crushed ice with coarse salt. Surround Tum and salt. Wrap in a cloth. Leave to stand for 2 hours. Turn out' like like an ordinary ice cream. cream. out above, moscovites can be be made made as indicated above, Proceeding as using apricots, apricots, pineapple, cherries, strawberries, peaches, peaches, using pears, pears, etc. They They can also be frozen in a deep-freeze. sweet can be flavoured with various liqueurs. This sweet

manufacture of MOUSSACHE -- Manioc flour used used in the manufacture MOUSSACIIE tapioca.

MOUSSAKA - Dish of Rumanian origin, now made also in MOUSSAKAof Rumanian number of Eastern countries. (See (See MUTTON, Moussaka a number ofmutton.) of mutton.) ln cooking and confectionery this this term tenn is MOUSSES -- In and confectionery used of mostly served different dishes, mostly servd cold and used of a number of of different even iced, though a few can be eaten hot. SAVOURY MOUSSES. MOUSSES. MoussEs MOUSSES o'ExrRfrs D'ENTRÉESSAVOURY Fish Fish moussemousse - See FISH. mousse (hot). MOUSSE Foie gras mouse uoussn

-

DE FoIE FOIE GRAS GRAS -

Pound in a

mortar 125 g. g. (4 raw chicken or veal with with 1I egg white. mortar @ oz.) raw

through a fine sieve. Rub through sieve. and add foie add 125 g. (4 oz.) raw foie Put this mixture in aa bowl and oz.) raw gras gras and g. Q (2 oz.) raw truffies, truffles, both both rubbed rubbed through through a and 50 g. Season, sieve. Season. ice, working with aa spatula and Mix these ingredients on ice, blending in, a little little at a time, 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant i+ cup) blending stiffly beaten egg whites. Put in aa soufflé thick cream. Add 2 stifly soufl6 coyer, stand stand in a pan of dish, cover, and cook for 25 25 to 30 of water and minutes. (sw SAUCE). Madeira or Pirigueux Périgueux sauce (see Serve with Madeira Serve This dish dish is is sometimes sometimes called souffii soufflé of of foie foie gras. gras. It is This hors-d'œuvre or light entrde. entrée. served as an hors-d'euvre Foie gras mousse mousse (cold) (cold) -- See See FOIE GRAS. Foie Chicken moussemousse - See CHICKEN. Chicken

MOSTELLE -- Mainlv Mainly Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish which is is verv very MOSTELL,E

597

MOUSSEAU givur to Name given to various various preparations, preparations, MOUSSELINE -- Name most of which which have have a a large or small small quantity of whipped most cream added added to to them. them. This term is is in in particular used used of This term cream

CoH CoJd quail mousse mousse -- See QUAIL. QUAIL.

MOUSSES. MoussEs MOUSSES DESSERT MOUSSES.

-

D'ENTREMETS D'ENTREMETs

Chocolate Chocolate mousse. mousse. MoussE MOUSSE AU cHocoI.Ar CHOCOLAT - Make Make Chantilly Chantilly pint, 2t cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) using using 6 dl. dl. (1 pint, 2t cups) cups) fresh cream (see

mou Ids made of ofvarious pastes enriched with cream moulds various pastes enriched with cream (poultry, gras). game, fish, shellfish,joie shellfish,foie gras). are served hot or cold. Mousselines are cold, they are also cold. If cold, Mousselines known as small aspics. Mousseline is used as as an an adjective to denote a a sauce enMousseline (mayonnaise mousseline, holcream (mayonnaise riched with with whipped whipped cream riched used of of the paste or forcemeat mousseline). It is also used landaise mousseline). make fish balls and mousses. mousses. used to make The term term mousseline is is much much used used in in confectionery The confectionery to pastries made of of delicate delicate mixtures mixtures describe certain cakes cakes and pastries describe (e.g. bbrioche mousseline). r io che mous s e line).

(l

cream. Melt 200 200 g. g. Q (7 oz.) oz.) vanilla-flavoured vaniJIa-ftavoured (bitter-sweet) (bitter-sweet) chocolate with 4 tablespoons hot water over a gentle heat until untiJ it forms a smooth paste. Add to this paste 200 g. (7 oz., scant scant cup) cup) sugar sugar and and 6 6 tablespoons water. water. When When it is thoroughly mixed, bring bring to the boil, and leave to stand stand until quite cold before adding adding the cream. cream.

it

MOUTARDELLE -- A kind kind of horseradish. horseradish, which is eaten MOUTARDELLE in the same way as horseradish. RESTA URANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE MOUTON BLANC BLANC -- See RESTAURANTS DAYS. DAYS.

MOYEU -- Old French word for the yolk of of an egg. MOYEU MUGWORT. slnsorINEBARBOTINE - Name sometimes sometimes given to tansy, givento MUGWORT. a plant which is is also called herbe aux aux vers vers (worm herb) in a nortb French because of its anthelmintic properties. In the north aromatic plant is used for flavouring ftavouring certain of France, this aromatic cakes and dishes. mugwort was used in England In the olden days, tansy or mugwort for flavouring ale.

MULBERRY. u0nr MÛRE - Fruit of of the mulberry mulberry tree, which which the MULBERRY. Romans are are said said to to have have prized prized highly. highly. It is is sweet sweet but Romans eaten raw. A syrup is is made made rather tasteless, and is seldom eaten juice is used to colour from it and its itsjuice colour wines. wines. from bramble or wild wild mulberry muJberry is stewed and The fruit of the bramble used in jams and jellies. A syrup which has has a slightly tart used ftavour is also made made from it. flavour

Chocolate mousse mousse Chocolate

meat is is highly highly prized, except when when it is prized, except MULE -- Mule meat musky, in flavour. All Ali recipes for horsemeat are suitable sui table for muskyin

Fruit Fruit mousses. mousses. MoussES MOUSSES DE DE FRUrrs FRUITS -- Apricot Apricot mousse. mousse. Rub Rub through through muslin 625 S. g. (l (J lb. lb. 6 oz.) very ripe apricots apricots into a bowl. bowl. Mix Mix with itit 250 250 g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) fine sugar sugar and 4 into of the sugar, sugar, syrup may be be used, used, tablespoons kirsch. Instead of made with 250 250 g. (9 oz., oz., 22 cups) cups) lump lump sugar sugar dissolved dissolved in aa few made spoonfuls of of hot hot water, boiled for 2 minutes minutes and left to get spoonfuls quite quite cold before before itit is added added to to the the apricot apricot pur6e. purée. mould with fine white white paper. paper. Line a mould Line Whisk Whisk 44 dl. (f; (i pint, pint, scant scant 22 cups) thick thick fresh fresh cream cream until until itit is the apricot pur6e. purée. Put in the the prepared mould, mould, stiff. Add to the cover coyer with a disc dise of of white paper, close the mould, and seal seal round the the rim rim with butter. (In (In contact contact with the ice the butter round will harden. harden. The The mould mould being being thus thus hermetically hermetically sealed, sealed, there there will be no no seepage seepage of of salt water.) water.) Place Place the mould in in a concan be

mule. MUGE, MULEr MULET - Fish found found in in coastal coastal MULLET, GREY. MUGE, has a protuberance protuberance in the middle middle of of the lower lower jaw waters. It has an indentation in the upper jaw. Its which corresponds to an body is elongated, with rather narrow flanks. ftanks. It is covered covered body broad scales. scales. There are a number number of ofvarieties, large broad with large varieties, the most common common being being the striped striped mullet mullet and the grey mullet. mullet. most In France France this this fish fish is is sometimes sometimes called poisson poisson sauteur sauteur In (leaping (Ieaping fish), fish), because of of its great great agility. Flattening Flattening itself itself on of the water water and spreading its tail ta il in a brusque the surface of tbe mullet muJlet leaps sideways sideways to great heights. heights. movement, the The flesh ftesh of mullet mullet is is white, fatty, fatty, delicate and and easy to digest. All Ali recipes recipes for bass bass (q.v.) are suitable for grey grey mullet. mullet. digest.

tainer on on aa deep bed bed of of ice, salt saIt and saltpetre. salt petre. Surround Surround with tainer layers layers of of ice ice and and saltpetre and cover coyer with the same. Leave Leave to to chili for for 22 hours. hours. chill

RED. noucsr ROUGET -- The The name rougel rouget is is given given in MULLET, RED.

French to quite quite different types and species species of of sea fish which which French nothing in in common common except except their red colouring. colouring. have nothing kinds may may be be distinguished: distinguished: red red mullet, mullet, which have have Two kinds two barbels barbels on on their lower jaw; jaw; and gurnets, which which are and gurnets, two recognised by by their their large large bony bony heads heads and and three three pectoral pectoral rays. rays. recognised The Mediterranean Mediterranean rouget, which which is of of the mullet type, has has red back, back, and and flanks ftanks and and belly belly that are are pink and and silver a red longitudinal bands. Its head is heavy heavy and has has two two without longitudinal the lower lower jaw. Its tail is cankerous. The white white barbels on the is very very fine fine and delicate. deIicate. fish is fish American mullet mullet is the the most important important food fish fish in The American southern U.S.A. southern Those who who enjoy enjoy red red mullet mullet eat eat itit grilled grilled and and accompanied Those by Maitre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) or one of of the special special by sauces for erilled grilled fish. fish. sauces

Before mou Id, tum out the the Before serving, wash wash and and dry dry the mould, and remove rem ove the the paper. mousse and mousse Following this same ieCipe, recipe, mousses mousses can be made made with Following various various kinds kinds of of fruit, such as pineapple, cherries, peaches, peaches, pears, pears, plums, plums, etc. etc. term mousse mousse is also used used to to describe describe sweet jellies jellies The term made made with with fruit or flavoured ftavoured with with liqueurs. liqueurs. These These jellies jellies are are whisked on on ice ice until until they they begin begin to to set. set. They They are then then poured poured whisked into jelly jelly moulds moulds and and left left to to set on ice. ice. into MOUSSES cLAcEEs GLACÉES - These These are are iced iced sweets. sweets, Iced mousses. mousses. MoussEs Iced usually made made from from Bombe Bombe mixture mixture (see (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND usually ICES). rcES).

MOUSSEAU - A type type of of French French bread bread made made from from wheaten wheaten MOUSSEAU-A ftour. flour.

598 598

MUSETTE MUSETTE (EN) Red mullet mollet ià la nigoise I. noucBr l, r,r, NIgoIsE -- Season Season the mullet mullet with salt and pepper, flour lightly and brown quickly both sides sides in in oil in a frying pan. Put the fish in a fireproof on both bottom of which has has been been lined Iined with a a layer of dish, the bottom dish, pulp and flavoured with tarragon. tarragon. tomatoes cooked to a pulp into thin Put Put anchovy anchovy fillets fillets cut eut into thin strips strips on on top of of the mullet. with breadcrumbs, sprinkle sprinkle with with olive oil, mullet. Cover with round of minutes. Set aa round and and cook in in the the oven for for 6 to to 8 rrùnutes. peeled lemon on the fish. Season a Roucrr AÀ m Red mullet ià la nigoise II. ROUGET LA Ntgolse NiÇOISE -- Season grill mullet with salt and pepper, brush with olive oil and and grill under a gentle heat. Set on a dish on a layer of tomatoes cooked up to aa pulp pulp anchovies eut cut and and flavoured ftavoured with with tarragon. tarragon. Put Put fillets flllets of anchovies thinstrips, and rounds of of lemon, lem on, on the fish. into thin strips, and garnished with unstoned is often Red mullet à often garnished d la la niçoise nigoise is olives and and also with capers. black olives HORS-D'GUVRE. Cold Red muUet à l'orientale -- See See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Red mullet i I'orientale hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euyre. rAPILLoTE - Grill Grill the RoucET EN EN PAPILLOTE Red mullet mllllet en papillote. ROUGET mullet and enclose it, between 2 layers of Duxelles Duxelles sauce (see mullet heart shal'e. cut into shape. SAUCE), in into aa heart in aa sheet of oiled oiled paper eut put it in the oven for a paper, set it on a dish, and put Close up the paper, few moments to make it puffup. Serve immediately. immediately. pnoveNQALE -provengde. ROUGET noucnr ÀA LA u PROVENÇALE Red la provençale. Red mullet mullet àI la (s* BASS). Bass àd la provengale provençale (see Prepared as for Bcss i L'ÉCHALOTE r'fcHlLore -- Make Make a shallots. ROUGET RoucE-r À Red mollet mullet with shallots. and season down the the back back of the the mullet and few light incisions down withaa layer of chopped shallots shallots with salt and pepper. Spread with cooked almost dry in white wine, wine, and sprinkle 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) (3 it. Dot with small pieces tablespoons) dry white wine over it. at a oven at in the of butter and stove, then then in the oven and cook first on on the the stove, Sprinkle with moderate basting frequently. Sprinkle moderate temperature, temperature, basting in the dish in in chopped lemon juice. Serve in chopped parsley and a little lemon wlùch which it was cooked.

For many many connoisseurs this fish fish must must be cooked without without For having its its scales scales removed. removed. It is is sometimes sometimes known known as b,icasse bécasse having mer (sea woodcock) woodcock) a name name which which suggests suggests that that its its inside de mer de may be be eaten. may ROUGET A À r,c, LA sencv BERCY - Make Make a few muUet irà la Bercy. RoucET Red mullet shallow cuts across the mullet if if it is scaled: scaled; season season with salt shallow pepper, brush brush with oil and griil grill (broil) (broil) at a gentle gentle heat. and pepper, half-melted Bercy Bercy butter butter Set on a serving dish. Cover with half-melted (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters). Red mullet ià la bordelaise. noucrr ROUGET A À re LA BoRDELAISE BORDELAISE Red Make a a few few shallow shallow cuts cuts across across the the back of the the mullet. mullet. Make season, and grill (broil) (broiI) under a gentle gentle heat. Brush with oil, season, Garnish with with fresh fresh parsley parsley and and lemon lemon and and serve serve with Bordelaise sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) with white white wine. Bordelaise ROUGET EN EN cAIssE CAISSE - Grill Grill the mullet mullet or Red mullet muHet en en caisse. caisse. RoucET Red sauté it in butter. butter. Put it into aa rectangular rectangular pap€r paper case, saut6 case, oiled and dried in the oven. Coat the bottom with Duxelles sauce (see SAUCE) and coat the fish with the same sauce. Cover Co ver sprinkle with oil or melted meJted butter. Put in with breadcrumbs, sprinkle a few moments. the oven for a Red mullet with fennel. RoucE-r ROUGET AU AU FENoUIL FENOUIL - Make Make a few light incisions across the back of the mullet and and season with and pepper. Put into a fireproof dish dish lined lined with 25 25 g. salt and (I (1 oz,* oz., t cup) cup) chopped chopped onions onions gently cooked mixed with cooked in oil, mixed fresh fennel. I1 tablespoon chopped fresh Cover with breadcrumbs. Sprinkle with aa little little oil, Cover oil, and little lemon cook in the oven at a gentle heat. Sprinkle with a !ittle juice and chopped parsley. Fillets Filleb of or ROUGET noucsr ÀA of red mullet i l'anglaise. I'anglaise. FILETS FILETS DE L'ANGLAISE -- Fillet the mullet. mullet. Trim the fillets, L'ANcLAIsn fillets, season season with salt and and pepper, flour salt flour them, coat coat in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs hr,-.u/n'T',rr them on sides. Set Set on on a and cook in butter, browning on both sides. Maître d h6tel butter (see BUTTER) BUTTER) on top. wrth Maitre serving dish with FRIT -- Make a RoucEr FRIr a few light incisions Fried red mullet. ROUGET mullet and proceed as BASS). on the mullet as for Fried bass (see BASS). AU GRATIN Red RoucET AU like Red mullet mullet au cRATIN -- Cooked Iike au gratin. ROUGET Sole au au gratin (see SOLE). red mullet. few Iight light mullet. ROUGET Roucrr GRILLÉ cnnrf -- Make Make aa few Grilled red incisions on the mullet, season, and grill the mullet on on aa the mullet, season, oil and the mullet gentle (see BASS). gentle heat, as for for Gril/ed 6ass (see BASS). Serve Serve with heat, as Grilled bass Maître (see BUTTER) d'h6tel butter with any any sauce Maitre d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER) or or with suitable for grilled grilled fish. fish. Red Red mullet mullet ài l'indienne. I'indienne. ROUGET RoucE-r À A L'INDIENNE L'ngorENr.rE -- Lightly score the mullet mullet across the back, flour, and and sauté saut6 back, season season and flour, in oil. Set Set on aa serving dish. dish. Pour Curry sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) over il. it. Surround cooked in in butter. with Surround with tomatoes cooked butter. Serve Serve with Rice àd l'indienne (see RICE). I'indienne (see Red muUet mullet ài l'italienne. loitalienne. ROUGET RoucET À A L'ITALIENNE L'ItlLIsNrqe -- Score Score the the mullet, season, grill it. in butter or grill it. season, sauté saut6 it in Line (see SAUCE), Line aa serving and ltalian sauce sauce (sec SAUCE), and serving dish dish with Italian set mullet on set the mullet on it. it. Coat with the sauce, cover cover with with breadcrumbs, the same same sauce, Coat with sprinkle with melted melted butter and and brown in in the oven for aa few few oven for minutes. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. Red rl MEUNIÈRE ruruutinn -- ProProRed mullet àI la la metmière. meunidre. ROUGET Roucrr A LA ceed (see BASS). ceed as as for Bass .Bass à meuniire (see d la meunière Red la moelle. moelle. ROUGET r,l MOELLE MoeI-LJ - Grill Grill the Red mullet mullet àI la RoucET ÀA LA the mullet (see SAUCE). mullet and and serve with Marrow Marrow sauce sauce (see SAUCE). serve it with Red Season Red mullet rl NANTAlSE Nnqr.nrsr -- Season mullet ài la la Nantaise. ROUGET RoucET ÀA LA the grill. mullet with and grill. the mullet with salt with oil, oil, and and pepper, brush salt and brush with Take Take the liver from care not not to it. Add Add from the to tear the liver the fish, taking care tear il. the liver, crushed, to following sauce. to the the following sauce. Boil (+ pint, pint, I cup) Boil down down l+ dl. cup) white white wine wine to has which has dl. (t to which been added lI tablespoon finely chopped Add aa liule little chopped shallot. shallot. Add been added dissolved juice. glaze, aa !ittle little butter and lemon jllice. dissolved meat meat glaze, some lemon and some Put and surround Put this this sauce sauce in in aa dish, dish, set set the it, and surround the mullet upon it, witb with half half slices lemon with slices of of lemon with fluted fluted edges. edges.

n.

(Creole cookery). MOUMULLIGATAWNY HOTPOT HOTPOT (Créole MULLIGATAWNY MouLOUCOUTANI, LoucourANr, BOUILLON BourLLoN DE DE FEU FEU -- A A highly spiced dish which which con tains curry powder and contains served in in and aa special curry paste, served (see RICE) served separplates, with soup with Rice Rice àd la crhole (see la créole soup plates, ately. pan. Remove Brown aa young chicken slightly Remove it it and and in aa pan. Brown slightly in keep keep hot. hot. Cook aa saucerful in the saucerful of finely chopped chopped onions in large chopped fat. chopped tomato. also aa large fat. Do Do not not brown. Cook also brown. Cook When When these add 1I tablespoon are tender, these ingredients ingredients are tender, add tablespoon of of garlic, thyme, parsley and powder, garlic, lndian Indian curry curry powder, and ginger thyme, parsley thr,rr.l1ohl" pounded together in thoroughly pounded in aa mortar. mortar. Stir Stir the the mixture (see chicken (see chicken as as for for Sautéed several times. Cut Cut up up the chicken Sautded chicken CHICKEN) CHICKEN) and and put itit in in the with the ingredients. the pan with the other other ingredients. AJlow coated with Allow the chicken chicken to with the mixture, then to become coated the rrùxture, moisten slowly with c1ear clear chicken chicken stock. stock. Before Before serving, mix serving, mix slowly with paste in pour into little of 1I tablespoon curry and pour curry paste in aa !ittle into of this this stock stock and the sauce. gently for for at at least least 44 hours. hours. sauce. Simmer Simmer gently MUROL MUROL -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. MUSCADEL. wine made made DE MUSCAT MUscAT -- Sweet Sweet dessert dessert wine MUSCADEL. VIN vrN DE from grapes. from Muscat Muscat grapes. pear with MUSCADELLE MUSCADELLE -- Winter Winter pear with aa musky musky flavour. flavour.

MUSCADET region of Light dry white wine wine from from the the region of dry white MUSCADET -- Light (See BRITT Nantes. ANY.) Nantes. (See BRITTANY.) MUSCAT grapes with musky flavour. MUSCAT -- White White or with aa musky flavour. or black black grapes given (Ef.D -- In MUSETTE name given was the the name MUSETTE (EN) In former former limes times this this was to rolled in in the form of of aa bladder the form bladder shoulder of of beef beef boned, boned. rolled to aa shoulder joint, rolled and also rolled in in the same way, way, was was also and braised. This joint, the same braised. This called called en en bal/on. ballon.

599 599

MUSHROOMS MUSHROOMS

SUSPECT

Amanita citrina citrina 1.l. Amanita

gloiocephala 2. Volvaria Volvaria gloiocephala 2.

5. Amanita Amanita muscaria 5. muscaria

6. pantherina 6. Amanita Amanita pantherina

POISONOUS POISONOUS 7. 7. Entoloma Entoloma livida

DEADLY phalloid€s 3. Amanita Arnanita phaJloides 4. Amanita a Amanita vern verna

MUSHROOMS. cHAMprcNoNs MUSHROOMS. CHAMPIGNONS

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Cryptogamus plants, - Cryptogamus devoid of chlorophyll, of which there are a great number of a great sp€cies, sorne some edible, some poisonous. species, edible, sorne poisonous. Apart Apart from from their botanical botanical characteristics, there there is is no no empirical means means of distinguishing distinguishing the good from the bad. The blackening blackening of a silver object or ofan of an onion on ion provides no guarantee, guarantee, and even ififit it is possible possible to make make certain fungi safe for for consumption consumption by a a preliminary preliminary boiling in in salted water or vinegar, vinegar, this proprocedure is is without avail avail for for fungi fungi which which contain amanita amanita toxin, the most deadly of of all. ail. It It is wise, therefore, if if one has has no knowledge and no experience of identifying identifying mushrooms, rnushrooms, to to be be satisfied satisfied with perience of cultivated mushrooms, which are found at all ail greengrocers greengrocers and markets and are perfectly perfectly safe. safe. If If one wishes to gather wild mushrooms mushrooms it is necessary necessary to learn to identiff identify the edible edible kinds, recognised recognised as such in the the locality, and and at the same same time time to recognise the dangerous dangerous species. species. One can make make an arbitrary division of mushrooms mushrooms into into three three groups: groups: the the species which which are are very very poisonous poisonous and and dangerous; dangerous; those those which which are not not only only edible, edible, but but of of excellent flavour flavour and worth worth cooking; cooking; and between between these the se two two groups the the immense immense quantity of mushrooms, mushrooms, some sorne suspect, some sorne edible, but but without gastronomic gastronomic interest, interest, except except for for those those passionate passionate devotees devotees whose whose attention attention we we should direct direct to to the the treatises treatises of of experts experts so that that they they may may distinguish distinguish the the suspect suspect from from the the edible. edible.

consumption ofthese The consumption wou Id only be be of ofinterest of these species species would interest if their if their nutritive value value had been clearly demonstrated, which which is not not the the case. indicate an an impressive impressive is case. Certainly analyses indicate proportion proportion of of albwninous of mineral minerai salts, a albuminous substances and of and a a little lecithin; lecithin; unfortunately special sugar, rehalose, and special sugar, rehalose, most most of these substances because substanc€s are without value, either because because they are not assimilable in this particular form, or because the cellulose which which encloses encloses them them is is not not soluble soluble by by the the digestive juices. digestive It It follows that mushrooms mushrooms can hardly be considered as condiment, a r6le rôle which which classic cookery cookery food, but more as a condiment, has always allotted to them.

Arnong the the dangerous mushrooms mushrooms the following following should Among recognised : be recognised:

phalloides (deoth (death cap). cap). r'lrraaMrn L'AMANITE pnenoips PHALLOÏDE Amanita phalloides (onouce (ORONGE vERrE, VERTE, oRoNGE ORONGE crcuE) CIGUË) - The most most dangerous of ail, nearly nearly always deadly. The mushroom mushroom has has a rounded rounded cap cap all, . which later flattens flattens out, dirty green green in colour, fading to aa

yellowish brown, sometimes bluish, bluish, sometimes a a paler paler yellowish brown, yellow. yellow. It It has has white white gills, gills, sometimes sometimes with with greenish greenish shades; shades; aa ring; a long long stem, stem, narrower narrower at the the top, top, swollen at at the the white ring; white base, in the the form forro of a cup cup enclosed enclosed in in a sheath sheath or volva, vol va, base, is only seen on digging digging it out out of the the ground. The which is spores are colourless. spores Amanita verna verna (gill). (giJI). L'AMAMTE L'AMANITE vERNA VERNA (rnlNrlNrtnn) (PRINTANIÈRE) Amsnita This is is probably proba bly only only aa variety variety of of Amanita Amanita phalloides.It phalloides. It has has aa This

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600 600 Pâtés: terrines terrines oftrufled of truffied duck duck dufois aufois gras; gras; veal veal and ~nd ham ham pie; pie; country country pat'(Phot. pâté (Phol. Nicolas) Pdtes:

MUSHROOMS MUSHROOMS joined at are white, white, and never joined at the are and are are never the stalk. Found parin autumn, when raw raw but but "excellent autumn, they are are toxic toxic when .... """1~"'1L ticularly in when cooked. cooked.

cap of the same form fonn which is is white, shiny, dotted with the remains of the volva; volva; white flesh; white white gills; gills; and aa white ring around the stalk which has a tendency to drop away. Both these these species are particularly poisonous and are responsible for for the majority of deaths from eating mushrooms. plNIHERINl Amanitl Amanita pantherina pantherina (panther (panther cap). r,'ltuemre L'AMANITE PANTHÉRINA (reusss (FAUSSE coruorre) GOLMOTTE) - Has first of all a a rounded cap, cap, which becomes curved, then then flattens out. out. The The colour is is variable, brown, greyish red, red, the the colour of dead leaves, sometimes dead leaves, sometimes dark dark yellowish yellowish green, almost always covered with scales (the always covered debris of the volva) which sometimes sometimes disappear after volva) which after prolonged rain. rain. It It has has white gills; aa white ring; and and aa white stalk whose swollen swol1en base buried below ground bears two or three Similar to three circular circular ridges. ridges. Similar to Amanita pantherinn pantherina is Amanita Amanita brunnescens brunnescens which is typical of North America. America. (rus(Oy agaric). L'AMANITE MUSCARIA (nJEAmanita muscaria muscaria (fly Amanita L'AMANITE tr,tusclnrA MoucHEs, FAUSSE onoNcr) -- Its Ils cap, cap, of fonn as the of the same form preceding species, is a brilliant vermillion red red or orange orange red whitish debris debris from from the the volva, volva, except covered with whitish except after ring. The base heavy rain; white or yellowish gills; aa white ring. of the stem, underground, is covered covered with white scales. scales. of Amanita cihina citrina (false death death cap). r'ltvrlNtts L'AMANITE CITRINE Amanih crrRrr.rr -- Less poisonous than than the preceding species. species. It is eaten in certain areas, but it should should be he regarded regarded at at least least as as suspect. This areas, fungus has a citron ci tron yellow cap, or greenish yellow, sometimes fungus sometimes almost white, covered with the debris of the yellowish volva. almost are white, white, the stalk stalk is is fairly tall, swollen at at the The gills are or yellowish yellowish ring ring which which does not become become base. There is a white or base. detached. detached. Amanita vernn verna which grows from from spring Apart from ftom Amanita spring to autumn, these species appear particularly n",rt;'~l1l",rl" in in summer and autumn, autumn in the woods. autumn

mushrooms:: Below are sorne Below some other good spring mushrooms (common morel). MORILLES Morchella escmenta MorcheUa esculenta (commoll MoRJLLES -- These do not usually Jend lend themselves to any confusion with dangerous dangerous species, and are among the the most sought-after mushrooms. They have a rounded or oval shape, shape, beige, greyish or almost black according to the species, the cap indented with honeyhoneycombing; the stalk is often shorter than the cap. Morels are combing; In U.S.A. they are found in spring in in clearings clearings and copses. copses. In found in sandy soil during warm weather weather in May and June. Tricholoma MoussERoN VRAI VRAI -Tricholoma (Lepista) saevum saeyrm (blewit). MOUSSERON This has a convex convex cap, often wavy wavy at the edges, matt, smooth, greyish, pinkish pinkish or creamy our, sometimes creamy in in col colour, sometimes greyish, or lilac coloured. The stem is short, thick, cylindrical, full. The gills are m, joined to the The blewit are sinuous, white white or cream, the stem. The or crea grows in rings in the spring in meadows meadows or on the borders of woods. rarely, in in autumn. autumn. In In woods. It It isis found sometimes, but but rarely, found sometimes, U.S.A. this freezing is found found from from September to to freezing U.S.A. this species is weather in thin woods and open grassy places. FAux MOUSMousMarasmius oreades oresdes (fairy-riry champignon). FAUX SERON more often often in sERoN -- Sometimes in spring spring but more Sometimes found in autumn, grows in circ1es meadows and pastures or on circles in dry meadows autumn, it grows yellow, thin, the edges edges of paths. The cap cap is is tan tan or yellow, thin, without much substance, with aa central prominence, smooth at at the edges; the gills tish, uneven, gills are and are whi uneven, fairly fairly wide apart, and whitish, joined to not joined to the the stalk. mushroom, which is never This mushroom, not stalk. This attacked by insects, is .S.A. it is its aroma. In In U is sought for its U.S.A. found from May to October. Boletus. LES Boletrn. BoLETS - Found Found in spring and autumn. There LEs BOLETS are numerous species. species. Instead of gills they have fleshy tubes yellowish, sometimes on cap, white white or or vellO\/illsh, on the underside of the cap, red, tuming to greenish hue red, turning in time, hue in time, when they are deto aa greenish tachable from the cap in the same manner as as the choke of an tachable artichoke artichoke when cooked. According According to the species, the cap is light or dark brown, sometimes very dark brown; the the thick brown, sometimes stalk which is is substantial, is white or brown, brown, and never has aa trace red in does not in the the edible species; the white flesh does trace, of red tum green green when it cornes turn comes in contact with the air. Even though there are edible species with red tubes, one would do well to avoid them, in fa ct that the the most most suspect, avoid them, in spite of the spite of the fact Boletus satanas, only gives rise to serious indigestion. Boletus indigestion. There is one a pale yellow colour which pale yellow which without without being is one cèpe cdpe of a poisonous is is uneatable unea ta ble on account of ts bi tterness. bitterness. of iits

Besides these these poisonous species species the Amanita group inBesides the Amanila cludes some sorne highly esteemed mushrooms: mushrooms: Amanita caesarea (Caesar's (Caesar's mushroom). mushroom). L'onoNGn L'ORONGE - A Amanita mushroom, rather rare. It has in the first place magnificent mushroom, magnificent fonn of of an egg as long as as it is enclosed in the volva, vol va, then, then, the form when this tears, the red red or orange cap appears, first domed, sometimes one then convex, never covered with scales, but sometimes see the traces (two (two or three fragments) of of the volva. The can see sometimes a little Httle slimy slimy in damp weather. It cap is gleaming, sometimes easily detachable detachable and and reveals very very white flesh. The The gills gills are is easily never attached attached to to the the stem; stem; the the stalk stalk is large, yellow, never

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cyJlin(jIi(~al, yellow, swollen at the foot, foot, surrounded with aa cylindrical, yellow ring, tends to drop off. Found Found in the white volva; the yellow woods at at the the end end of summer and and in in autumn. autumn. Similar to woods Amanita caesarea caesarea is Amanita Amanita calyptroderma which which grows in Amanita North America America in the autumn. autumn. North Amanita rubescere rnbescens @lusher). (blusher). LA LA GoLMorrE, GOLMOTTE, ORONGE Amanita oRoNcE VINEUSE - Has Has a convex convex cap which later on becomes becomes flatter. It vINEUSEis brownish red red or wine-coloured, wine-coloured, sometimes sometimes quite dark, is sometimes faded, with whitish whitish or whitish-yellow scales. scales. The sometimes is pinkish pinkish or or white, turning to pink when when in contact with flesh is the air; the stalk is hollow, thick, yellow or whitish pink, with a deepening deepening wine-coloured wine-coloured tinge at the base. base. The gills from the end end of are white or pinkish. Found in clearings from autumn, it is toxic toxic when when raw but excellent excellent when when spring until autumn, properly cooked. Amanitopsis fulva and Amanitopsis vaginata (grisette and '--'\JU~''-'UI'''''''~LJ.; - These have domed caps, later tawny grisette). grisette). coucoulrslrr tawny out, which which are are grey, grey, lead lead coloured, coloured, yellowing yellowing spreading out, usually free of debris from from the volva, but brown, or beige, usually sometimes bearing large white patches patches of of volva. They never sometimes are slender, slender, white or have a ring on the stalk. The stems are slightly coloured, hardly swollen at the base, which remains remains slightly by the the persistent persistent white white or or coloured coloured volva. The gills enclosed by enclosed

The mushrooms that follow are only found in summer summer and autumn: pRATELLE, boule Psalliota arvensis (horse (horse mushroom). Psalliota arvereis mu$room). PRATELLE, boule de neige - Has a globular cap of neige of aa rosy tint, which later spreads out, stem, thickened at the the base; oul thick and white; aa strong stem, rosy white gills; white flesh, yellowing a !ittle little when in contact wi th the air; and aa large double ring. with procera (parasol). COULMELLE Lepiota prooera coULMELLE -- Has an ovoid cap,

and finally out, domed domed in in the rounder and finally spread becoming rounder spread out, grey; and aa hollow stem, rather centre, brown or brownish brownish grey; ta 11. The gills are the stalk. tall. are numerous and stand stand away from the The flesh is rather soft, insubstantial insubstantial and white, turning turning pink reddish in the air. or reddish CantharelJus (chanterelle). CHANTERELLE, cibarius (chanterelle). crnNrnnnt,t,D, GIROLLE cIRoLLE Cantharelhs cibarius fonn in the shape of aa cup, with aa frilled edge, and -- Has a form thick swollen vein-like gills, the colour of egg yolk, dark or paler (according to humidity). humidity). The The stalk is fleshy, short, (according to paler sometimes non-existent. non-existent. This mushroom cannot This mushroom cannot be consometimes fused with any other. Craterellus (Cantharellus) cornucopioides cornucopioides (horn of plenty). Craterelhs CRATERELLE - In France called the horn of plenty or trumpet cRATERELLE of death.It death. It appears in the the woods at the end of summer and of

601 60r Fish: salmon in aspic(Phot. Nicolas)

MUSHROOMS MUSHROOMS horn, with autumn. The The mushroom mushroom is is in in the form of aa hom, with in autumn. the form

per least, leasg lasting lasting sometimes sometimes for for 88 or in 60 follows in or 10; l0; death death follows 60 per possible itit still cent tates aa cent of cases; if if aa recovery recovery isis possible of cases; still necessi necessitates long long convalescence. convalescence. The emptying of the stomach, which must must always always be The emptying of the stomach, which be attempted means of vomitives and attempted by by means of vomitives and stomach stomach douches, douches, has poison being has only chance of only aa small small chance of success, success, the already the poison being already absorbed. absorbed. We We must must apologise apologise for for introducing introducing aa rather rather terrifying terrifying picture picture in gastronomy, but in aa work work dedicated dedicated to to gastronomy, when one one but when thinks thinks of of the the too faal accidents accidents which which occur too frequent frequent fatal occru every every year year from poisonous mushrooms, eating poisonous mushrooms, one one cannot cannot too too from eating often warning. often sound sound aa note note of of waming. Preparation Preparation of of cultivated cultivated mushrooms. mushrooms. PREPARATION IREIARATIoN DES DEs CHAMPIGNONS (l lb.) g. (1 lb.) very very white white cHAMPIcNoI{s DE DE COUCHE Choose 500 500 g. couctc -- Choose mushrooms, and ove the remove and rem the earthy earthy bottom bottom of of the the stalk. stalk. Wash quickly and Wash quickly and carefully carefully in in aa lot lot of water. Drain Drain the of water. the mushrooms and the stalks level with and dry with dry them. them. Slice Slice off offthe stalks on on aa level the groove them cap's neatly neatly or cutting the caps. caps. Pare Pare the the caps them by by cutting or groove minute and and regular incisions. incisions. When When one is dealing dealing with with cultivated cultivated mushrooms mushrooms which are one is which are fresh and and firm, any kind kind of firm, itit is is best best not to to attempt attempt any of embellishembellishment when peeling them, pare them when peeling them neatly. neatly. ItIt them, but but simply simply to to pare is, practice in is, however, however, common common practice in restaurant restaurant cookery cookery to to groove groove them. them. Throw prepared in Throw them them into into aa boiling boiling liquor liquor prepared in the the followfollowing way: Boil (6 tablespoons, g. dl. (6 Boil together ingway: together 1I dl. tablespoons, scant!cup) scanttcup) 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., lemon and and 1I teaspoon cup) butter, the the juice of half aa lemon teaspoon of half oz., !* cup) salt. in this this liquor liquor for for 55 minutes. minutes. Tum Turn salt. Boil the the mushrooms in out liquor. out into into an an earthenware earthenware vessel vessel with with the the liquor. The court-bouillon having The court-bouillon having once to cook cook the mushonce served served to the mushrooms preparations: added rooms isis used for various various preparations: added to white used for to white sauces, as velouté, veloutti, suprême, supr€me, allemande, sau@s, such such as allemande, white white wine, wine, etc. prepare hors-d'œuvre etc. It can can also also be hors-deuvre cooked in aa be used used to to prepare cooked in marinade. Another gtroove the method. Pare mushrooms and and rub Another method. or groove the mushrooms rub Pare or them pan in with half aa lemon. lemon. Put in aa pan in which which aa little little them with Put them them in butter has has been been melted. melted. Season pinch of Season with with aa pinch of salt, salt, moisten moisten with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 mer with (3 tablespoons) white stock and sim with the tablespoons) white stock or or Madeira Madeira and the simmer lid lid on minutes. Use according to instructions. on for 88 minutes. Use according to instructions. Prepared less white Prepared in in this this way way mushrooms mushrooms are are less white but but of of better flavour. better flavour.

gills and veinJike and vein-like gills frilled edges, edges, nearly nearly black on top, top, and and frilled black on dark grey on on the underside, smooth on on top, veined top, slightly veined grey or on the underside. underside. The The stem stem is is tubular, ash grey tubular, ash on the or black. Unattractive and and tough as it is, is, this mushroom is for is sought sought for condiment on account of its as a condiment its smell which which recalls that of of trufHe. the trufre. floccosus is In U.S.A. Cantharellus In U.S.A. is found found from from July July to Cantharellus floccosus to September September in in woods. woods. Many Many edible edible and and poisonous mushrooms not mentioned here roonrs here are are found found in in U.S.A. U.S.A. Cultivated government and are are govemment mushrooms are very widely marketed and supervised. supervised. poisoning- Leaving Mushroom poisoningMushrom Leaving aside aside the mushrooms mushrooms which are suspect and can can produce serious indigestion, there there exist exist contwo types of poisoning according to the type of poison contained in the fungi. (Amanita muscaria, Muscarine poisoning (Amanita muscaria, Amanita panMuscarine poisoning therina, etc.) resembles atropine therina, atropine intoxication. (l to 4 hours after eating). The start is rapid (1 is characcharaceating). It is terised by an indefinable indefinable malaise, rapidly followed followed by colic, vomiting, diarrhoea, stomach cramps, abundant salivation, vomiting (deliriura excitement, faintfollowed by nervous disorders (delirium, fainting, reeling reeling, dilation of the pupils) followed prostration. ing followed by prostration. use of and which dissolves Avoid the use of alcohol which dissolves the the poison, and attempt to to empty the the stomach by by administering administering vomitives (lukewarm water, soapy water, never emetics); the the patient be kept warm, warm, given given frictions, must be frictions, made made to to inhale inhale ether. The recovery often occurs The I or occurs in 1 days, the convalescence is is or 2 2 days, the convalescence short. There There are, nevertheless, nevertheless, more serious cases, even even fatal fatal serious cases, (20 per cent cent of Amanita pantherina). pantherina). cases for Amanita of cases Phalline poisoning poisoning (more (more correctly, amanita toxin) toxin) isis correctly, amanita Phalline much more more serious; it is is above much above ail all caused serious; it caused by by Amanita Amanita verna. The phalloides and Amanita phalloidcs The beginning of of the the sympsymptoms is is much much more more delayed to 24 toms delayed (12 to 24 hours hours after after eating, eating, somesomethey manifest themselves themselves by times more), and they by fainting fits, fits, pain, burning buming stomach, cramp in various various parts of great pain, of the the body; intestinal intestinal disturbances take cholera body; appearance of take the the appearance ofcholera symptoms, with incessant incessant vomiting, diarrhoea, diarrhoe4 often often bleedbleeding, pain, pain, cold co Id sweats, cold extremities. ing sweats, cold extremities. The The stomach stomach is is and rejects the liver is hypersensitive, and rejects everything, is enlarged everything, the enlarged and painful. painful. The The symptoms occur, and occur, reach reach aa crisis, are followed crisis, are followed of calm. by periods of is not affected The mind is affected until until the the final final period, when when the the slows down, down, breathing breathing becomes becomes difficult, pulse slows difficult, the the patient tums yellow, yellow, and and then then prostration and turns and collapse collapse ensue, ensue, al! all these symptoms manifesting manifesting themselves themselves over these over 22 or or 44 days days at at

RECIPES ABLE FOR TIV A TED MUSHSUITABLE FOR CUL RECIPES SUIT CULTIVATED MUSHROOMS. REcETTES RELATIVES Aux CHAMPIGNONS DE ROOMS. RECETTES cHAMprcNoNs DE RELATTvES AUX

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Mushroom (hot hors-d'œuvre). Mushroom barquettes barquettes (hot hon-d'nuwe). BARQUETTES BAReUETTES AUX puff pastry pastry barquettes Fill puff with aa Atx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNs -- Fill barquettes with ragoût m, or (see poulette (see ragofit of mushrooms cooked cooked in la poulette of mushrooms in crea cream, or àd la below). (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre.) hors-d euvre.) below). (See MusbroOIm AU BEURRE Mushrooms cooked cuoked in in butter. butter. CHAMPIGNONS BEURRE -cHAMprcNoNs AU Slice pieces according mushrooms into into 22 or according to or 33 pieces Slice the the mushrooms to their their size, pepper. Sauté and season season with with salt and pepper. in butter size, and salt and Saut6 them them in butter in pan over lively heat. in aa frying frying pan over aa lively Transfer to to aa vegetable vegetable heat. Transfer dish. dish. This recipe can This recipe can be used for cipes, field freld mushrooms, be used for cèpes, mushrooms, chanterelles, chanterelles, morels, morels, blewits mushrooms. blewits and and Caesar's Caesar's mushrooms. Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked in cream cnruuplcNorqs ÀA LA cooked in cream J. f. CHAMPIGNONS u CRÈME cniuB -* Slice mer in the mushrooms, mushrooms, season and sim for Slice the season them simmer in butter them and butter for 88 to minutes. to 10 l0 minutes. Coyer Cover with with boiling cream and leave to cook until boiling cream and leave to cook until the the cream cream is is almost almost completely completely boiled boiled down. down. Stir little fresh Stir in in aa little fresh cream. cream. This recipe can used for This recipe can be for cèpes, morels, Caesar's Caesar's mushbe used cipes, morels, mushrooms, rooms, and and to field mushrooms. mushrooms. to field MushroOIm Mushroom cooked cooked in in cream cream II. cnrurrptcNor.rs ÀA LA II. CHAMPIGNONS ul CRÈMESAUCE). (seeSAUCE). in butter sauce (see cntur- Simmer and add Simmer in butter and add Cream CreCIn sauce Mushroom croo.te J. CROÛTE AUX CHAMPIGNONS Simmer Mushroom cro0te I. cno0rn Arx cHAMptcNoNs - Simmer

Preparation of of mushrooms mushrooms (Larousse) (/.aroasse) Prcparation

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MUSHROOMS MUSHROOMS (see HORSgrecEte (see HORSla grecque way as as for for Artichokes àd la in the the same same way D'ŒUVRE). D'(EUVRE). Choose cnlllfs -- Choose Grilled mushrooms. CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIGNotrs GRILLÉS Grilled mushrooms. and remove remove the the stalks. stalks. Wash Wash large, even-sized mushrooms, and large, grill under under and grill or oil, and wipe them, oil, season, soak in in butter or season, and them, soak gentle heat. aa gentle (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Maite d'hôtel d Mtel buller butter (see Set dish with with Maître Set on on aa dish according to or use to the the are, or Compound use according as they they are, Compound bUllers), butters), as directions of the the recipe. LA HONGROISEHoNcRoIsE Mushroorm la hongroise. CHAMPIGNONS cHAMIIGNoNS ÀA LA Mrrhroorc àI la (see below). la hongroise hongroise (see Prepare in way as as Cèpes CDpa àd la below). in the same same way julienne. JULIENNE DE CHAMPIGNONS Trim, Mushroom julienne. CHAIUPIGNoNS -- Trim, JTJLIENNE DE pare the mushrooms. intoTalienne wash, wipe and mushrooms. Cut Cut them them intojulienne and pare (q.v.) strips, use to to which which they they according to to the the use or thin thin according strips, thick or in butter. will be put. Season and simmer Season and simmer in Mushroom ketchup made and and sold English condiment condiment made sold ketchup -- English commercially. English cookery cookery to to season season sauces sauces is used used in in English commercially. It is as follows: follows: and cold meat. Prepare Prepare as and as as aa condiment condiment with with cold Peel, mushrooms. Slice fresh mushrooms. Slice them them Peel, trim and wash wash sorne some fresh trim and finely. Put in layers layers in in an an earthenware earthenware bowl, bowl, sprinkling sprinkling Put them in each leave to and leave rnacerlayer with fine the bowl bowl and to macereach layer fine salt. salt. Coyer Cover the ate place. Skim day. ate for for 33 days in aa cool cool place. Skim each each day. days in juioe through aa stout Strain the juice liquid cloth. Measure Measure the the liquid stout clotho and for every every in aa saucepan. Add the the following following spices spices for and put itit in saucepan. Add juice: 10 (* oz.) (scant quart, litre (seant quart, generous generous quart) quart) juice: l0 g.g. (! oz.) fennel fennel ground fiower, ground mace, mace, 1I tablespoon tablespoon ground flower, 1I tablespoon tablespoon ground grated nutginger, pepper, 1I teaspoon ginger, 1I teaspoon nutcayenne pepper, teaspoon grated teaspoon cayenne meg, powdered cloves. cloves. meg, 1I teaspoon powdered Cook Pour into into small liquid forms forms aa syrup. syrup. Pour small Cook until until the the liquid bottles. Cork and seal. Cork and seal. Mushrooms m LYONNAISE LvoNNAISE -Mushrooms ài la la lyonnaise. lyonnqise. CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIGNows ÀA LA The cooked in in buller, butter, with with chopped chopped as Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked The same same as onion in butter. butter. onion softened softened in juice Set lemon juice with drops drops of of lemon in aa vegetable dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with Set in and pour over parsley, and hot and pour over the the mushrooms mushrooms the the hot and chopped chopped parsley, butter in can cooked. Ali All edible edible mushrooms mushrooms can in which they were were cooked. be prepared in in this this way. way. be prepared Mushrooms (garnish). liqueu wines Madeira or or in in other other liqueur wines (garnish). in Madeira Mushrooms in CHAMPIGNONS in butter. Ira,q,oine -- Sauté Saut6 the the mushrooms mushrooms in butter. cHAMpIcNoNs AU eu MADÈRE Drain pan with wine chosen, chosen, and and with the the wine Drain them, them, deglaze deglaze the the sauté saut6 pan (see boil Spanish sauce sauce (see few tablespoons tablespoons thick thick Spanish down. Add Add aa few boil down. SAUCE). half and and strain strain through through aa sieve. sieve. Put Put SAUCE). Boil Boil down down by by half the mushrooms into this this sauce. sauce. mushrooms back into Cultivated mushrooms, morels, morels, etc., etc., are are mushrooms, field field mushrooms, Cultivated mushrooms, prepared prepared in in this way. this way. Mushrooms (hors-d'auwe). CHAMPIGNONS crHuPIGNoNs Mushrooms in in marinade marinade (hors-d'œuvre). MARINÉS prepared ru.,tRtNfs -- Cèpes cultivated mushrooms mushrooms can can be be prepared Cipes and and cultivated in (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold hors-d'œuvre, hors-d@uvre, in aa marinade marinade (see HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold Marinated Marinated cèpes cipes and and mushrooms). mushrooms). Mushroom Atrx CHAMPIGNONS Slice Mushroom omelette. omelette. OMELETTE oMELETTE AUX cHAMpIGNoNS -- Slice the cut them into dice. dice. Season Season and and mushrooms thinly, them into or cut the mushrooms thinly, or sauté eggs and and make make the the omelette omelette saut6 in in butter. Add to to the the beaten beaten eggs in (see EGGS). in the EGGS). the usual usual way way (see Mushrooms garnish prepared in can be in this way can be used used to to gamish Mushrooms prepared this way fried poached eggs eggs. fried eggs, eggs, poached eggs or or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs. Mushroom (hot hors-d'œuvre garnish). TARTARpatties (hot Mnshroom patties hors.d'@uvlr or or garnisb). TELETTES iN cream, CTCAM, or iN aA TELETTES AUX AI,IX CHAMPIGNONS COOK them thCM in OT in CHAMPIGNONS -- Cook Poulelle (se SAUCE). pastry mixture in in short Poulette sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Put Put the the mixture short pastry tarts Sprinkle with with dried dried have been been baked baked blind. blind. Sprinkle which have tarts which breadcrumbs fried in in butter butter and and or with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs fried breadcrumbs or drained, grated cheese. cheese. Brown Biown in in the drained, or with grated the oyen. oven. or with These prepared with patties can can also also be with mushrooms mushrooms cut cut in in be prepared These patties julienne, ce, sautéed julienne, or and combined combined with in butter butter and with aa or in in di dice, saut6ed in brown white sauce. brown or or white sauce. Mushroorm poulette J.I. CHAMPIGNONS LA POULETTE roULETTE -Mushroorc ài la la poulette crnuptcwoNs ÀA LA Simmer in butter. Add aa few few tablespoons the mushrooms mushrooms in butter. Add tablespoons of Simmer the of Poulette (se SAUCE). sauce (see in aa vegetable vegetable dish, dish" sprinkle Poulette sauce SAUCE). Set Set in sprinkle with parsley. with chopped chopped parsley.

M ushrooms cooked in cream Mushrooms

the mushrooms bu tter. Add aa ffew ew tables poons of of Allemande AI lemande mushrooms in butter. tablespoons (see SAUCE) (scr, SAUCE), or Béchamel sauce Bichamel sauce sauce (see sauce (see SAUCE) if the the dish is to cooked au at maigre (q.v.). Mix together. Arrange preparation in aa round round bread has Arrange this preparation bread roll which has been hollowed out, buttered and lightly browned in the oyen. oven. been Heat for a moment. This recipe can be be used used for cèpes, cipes, morels, motels, etc. Mushroom Ar.rx CHAMPIGNONS Simmer Mushrom croûte cro0te II. CROÛTE cno0rr AUX cHAMpIGNoNS -- Simmer the mushrooms butter. Dust lightly with with fiour flour and and mushrooms in in butter. Dust lightly the moisten with fresh gently for very gently for 12 cream. Season. Season. Cook very 12 fresh cream. minutes. Add butter, and finish in the same way as as the recipe above. Little hors-d'cuvre). PETITS ruurs CROÛTES cRoOrEs Little mushroom mushroom croûtes crottes (hot hors-d'œuvre). AUX (see below) purie (see Mushroom purée AtJx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIcNoNs -- Prepare Prepa.re aa Mushroom below) and bread rolls which have been scooped out, and fill bread out, or or spread spread on biscuits. Mushroom essence See ESSENCE. €ssence -- See MushroolM herbes. CHAMPIGNONS AIx FINES FINEs Mushrooms aux arx fines fines herbes. cHAMpIGNoNS AUX HERBES in buller as Mushrooms HERBEs -- The same as Mushrooms cooked in butter with the addition of chopped parsley. This This recipe recipe is applicable to cipes, field field mushrooms, is applicable to cèpes, chanterelles, chanterelles, morels, morels, blewits, Caesar's C.aesar's mushrooms. Mushroom duxelles. FARCE FARCE DE DE CHAMPIGcHAMpIcMushroom forcemeat forcemeat or or duxeUes. NONS, DUIcLLEs DUXELLES - This prepared with is usually with NoNs, This stuffing stuffing is usually prepared cultivated peelings, the and peelings, the caps caps being being cultivated mushroom mushroom stalks stalks and poses, but it ean used purposes, can be other types used for other pur be made with other of mushroom. Cook gently sorne mixture of chopped onion onion in in aa mixture of butter butter some chopped and oil, is added added when when the little chopped chopped shallot is the oil, to which aa little onion is in the and peelings of is almost cooked. Put in the stalks stalks and of the the mushrooms, which pressed to chopped up and pressed which have have been been chopped up and to extract the (l.lb.) mushrooms use g. (l.1b.) g. use 50 50 g. the moisture. For 500 500 g. (2 (2 oz., (l oz., (2 oz., g. (2 g. (1 25 g. cup) shallot, shallot, 50 50 g. oz., oz., * cup) onion, 25 oz., I cup) butter, 33 tablespoons (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) oil. oil. tablespoons (4 i cup) Cook on all the has evaporated. evaporated. on aa lively heat heat until until ail the moisture has Season pepper. Add chopped Add 1I teaspoon Season with with salt teaspoon chopped and pepper. salt and parsley. parsley. Duxelles prepared large number of prepared in way is is used in this way used in aa large of preparations. Mushroorm given DE CHAMPIGNONS Mushroorc fumet. fumet. FUMET FUMET DE cHAMpIGNom -- Tenn Term given to liquor cooked. The The liquor liquor in in which have cooked. which mushrooms have to the the liquor is is boiled is original boiled down down to about aa quarter of of its original volume. to about ushMushroom garnish. GARNITURE DE CHAMPIGNONS cHAMpIcNoNs -- M MushcARMTURE DE rooms which grilled or liquor cooked in in liquor which have have been saut6ed, grilled or cooked been sautéed, are preparations such as blanquelles, blanquettes, are added added to many preparations such as to many fricassées, escalopes, (small slices loin, or fillet, loin, escalopes, noiselles noisettes (small slices of of fillet, or fricasstes, leg porlg etc.), leg of lamb, pork, chicken, sweetbreads, sweetbreads, of lamb, etc.), tournedos, tournedos, chicken, fish, eggs, etc. etc. fish, eggs, Mushrooms (cotd hors-d'œuvre). grecque (cold la grecque horsd'cuwe). CHAMPIGcHAMnIGMushrooms ài la NONS - Choose Notts À mushrooms. Cook Cook A LA LA GRECQUE cREceuEChoose very very small small mushrooms.

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MUSHROOMS MUSHROOMS Cultivated and Cultivated mushrooms, mushrooms, field field mushrooms, mushrooms, cipes cèpes and

vegetables which are are stuffed and and browned in in the ve~~eUlbl,~s which the oyen oven (see

morels morels are are prepared prepared in in this way, way. Mushroom Mushrooms ià la la poulette poulette II. U. crrlrvrprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS A À r.A LA porJLEf,TE POULETTESoften Soften the mushrooms in butter butter and drain. Put I1 tablespoon

GRATTN). Mushroom ToURTE AUX Atx CHAMPIGNONS Musbroom t8rt. tart. TOURTE cHAMprcNoNs -- Prepare Prepare the mushrooms by cooking them in cream cream or in in Poulette sauce (see SAUCE). Arrange in flaky pastry open tart pastry case. Mushrooms (hot hors.d'cuwe). TOASTS Mushrooms on on toast toast (hot ToAsrs AUX Ar,rx crIAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Grill Grill the the mushrooms mushrooms or sauté them them in or saute butter. Arrange them on bread bread eut cut in rectangles or rounds, gnlled Sprinkle with frid fried breadcrumbs. Put in the grilled or fried. Sprinkle oven oyen for a moment. Season Season with freshly ground pepper, pepper, and sprinkle sprinkle with chopped parsley. parsley. Mushroom Mnshroom vol-au-vent vol-au-vent. voL-AU-vENT VOL-AU-VENT Aux AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -Flll l-au-v ent case cl;se with Fill a vo vol-au-vent with a ragofit of ofmushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked in cream or in Poulette Poulette scuce sauce (see SAUCE).

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flour flour in in the saut6 sauté pan. pan. Mix, Mix, and and moisten moisten with bouillon or white white stock. Boil down, and combine combine with with I1 or 2 egg yolks. Finish Finish the the sauce with with cream and and butter, season, and pass through a sieve. Mrnhroom powder. pouDRE POUDRE DE cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Trim and clean c1ean the mushrooms. Slice them. them. Put Put them them on a a baking baking sheet on on layers layers of paper paper and dry very slowly in in the oven oyen or near near an an open open fire. When When they are perfectly perfectly dry pound pound them in in aa mortar, mortar, and and pass pass through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. The The powder is used used to to flavour various various preparations such as ragofits, sauces and stuffings. Preserved Preserved mushroonrs mushrooms (au (au naturel). naturel). coNsERvEs CONSERVES DE DE cHAMCHAMpIGNoNsPIGNONS - Sterilise Sterilise the the mushrooms mushrooms as as soon soon as as they they have have been been gathered. /5"lHo""o",U. Peel, Peel, scrape and and wash wash them them in several several waters waters until until they are are tender. tender. Drain, leave leave to to cool, cool, and and put put into into glass glass jars. jars. Sterilise by by cooking cooking at at boiling boiling point point for for lf, li hours. hours. See euvre, MariSee also also HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold hors-d hors-d'œuvre, Marinated nated cipes and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Mrnhroom puree. punf,s PURÉE DE DE cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS -- See See PUR6E. PURÉE. Mushmom Mushroom rissoles - See See RISSOLE. RISSOLE. Mushroom Mushroom salad. salado sluoE SALADE DE DE cHAMprcNol.,lls CHAMPIGNONS -- Only Only freshly freshly gathered mushrooms are are used used (agarics, (agarics, morels, morels, or or cultivated cultivated gathered mushrooms mushrooms). Trim, Trim, wash, wipe, wipe, and and cut cut them them up up finely, finely, seasoning with with oil, or vinegar, vinegar, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and chopped chopped herbs. oil, lemon lemon juice juice or Put Put in in aa salad salad bowl. bowl. One One can can also also add add aa salad salad dressing to to cultivated cultivated mushrooms mushrooms which which have have been been pared pared and and cooked as as described described above above under under Preparation Preparation of of cultivated cultivated mushrooms. mushrooms. Serve Serve as as an an horshorsd'euvre. d'œuvre. Mushroom Mushroom salpicon. salpicon. sAI,prcoN SALPICON DE DE cHAMprcNoxs CHAMPIGNONS - The The mushrooms mushrooms are are cut cut into into dice, dice, big big or or small, small, according according to to the the use are put, and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. use to to which which they they are Little Little mrchroom mushroom souflds. pETrrs PETITS sourrrfs SOUFFLÉS Arx AUX cHAMprcCHAMPIGNol-Is NONS -- Make Make the the souffi6 soufflé preparation preparation with with mushroom mushroom puree purée according aU souffi6s souffléswith withaa vegetable vegetable accordingto to the themethod method given given for for all pur6e purée base. base. Put Put the the preparation pre:paratllon into into little !ittle souffi6 soufflé dishes. dishes. Cook Cook in in the the oven. oyen. (See (See SOUFFLE.) Cream of mushroom mushroom soup. soup. porAcE POTAGE cninrn CRÈME DE DE cHAMprcCHAMPIGCream of NoNs NONS - See See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Mushroom Mushroom veloutd velouté

RECIPES RECIPES SUITABLE SUITABLE FOR FOR CEPES CÈPES AND AND OTHER OTHER VARIETIES. VARIETIES. REcETTES RECETTES s'e,pelrqulur S'APPLIQUANT AUx AUX cBprs CÈPES rr ET A À

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QUELQUES AUTREs AUTRES nspicns ESPÈCES euEleuEs Cèpes à la bearnaise. béarnaise. cipns CÈPES A À LA Moos MODE sflnNdrse BÉARNAISE - Trim, Cdpes cèpes, and and dry them them by putting them wash and and wipe the cipes, wash under the the gd[ grill or or in the the oven. oyen. under of raw raw garlic into the caps, in the same Insert small pieces of Insert inserted into into a leg of mutton. Season with way as garlic is inserted and pepper pepper and grill them. them. salt and Arrange them them on a hot plate plate and cover co ver with a mixture of Arrange breadcrumbs fried fried in very very hot oil. oil. Sprinkle SprinkJe with chopped breadcrumb,s parsley. parsley. la bordelaise. bordelaise. cipEs CÈPES A À LA soRDsLAISE BORDELAISE -- Trim and and C&pes tà la cèpes and simmer simmer them them in in butter butter and and lemon lemon juice. wash the cipes Drain and and sponge sponge them them dry. Cut Cut them them into into slices slices ifif they are Drain very large, large, leave leave whole whole ifif they are are small. small. Season Season with with salt and very pepper pepper and and saut6 sauté them them in in oil, browning browning slightly. slightly. At the the last last moment moment for for each each 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) cipes, cèpes, add, add the At teaspoons chopped chopped shallot, shaHot, 2 2 tabletableCn()nrleO-un stalks, stalks, 22 teaspoons chopped-up grated breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and a a teaspoon teaspoon of of spoons freshly grated chopped parsley. the cipes cèpes in in aa dish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle over over them them aa little little Arrange the lemon juice and chopped parsley. parsley. and some sorne chopped This is how la bordelaise bordelaise are prepared prepared in in Paris Paris how cipes dà Ia restaurants. In In Bordeaux and and in in south-west south-west France, France, the the restaurants. cèpes are are not not seasoned seasoned with with shallots shallots but but with with chopped chopped cipes garlic, garlic, (as (as in in the the case case of of cipes cèpes aa la la provengale) provençale) and breadbreadcrumbs are are not Dot added added to to the the preparation. preparation. crumbs In that that same same region, cipes cèpes prepared dà la la bordelaise bordelaise are In never browned. browned. They are are sometimes cooked cooked in in oil, oil, not not in in aa never frying pan pan but but in in an an earthenware earthenware casserole. casserole. frying with cream cream l. 1. ctpns CÈPES A À ra LA crhm CRÈME - Cbpes Cèpes Cèpes cooked cooked widr C0pes which are are white-fleshed white-fleshed and and firm firm are are cooked cooked in in this this way. way. which cut into into slices slices or or left left whole. whole. According to to their their size size they arc are cut According Put them them into into aa pan pan in in which some sorne butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Put simmer them them in in the the butter. butter. Seasonwith with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and simmer Season Cook When cooked, eooked, cover coyer them them with with fresh fresh boiling boiling cream. cream. Cook When untiJ the the cream cream has has almost almost disappeared. disappeared. Add Add 33 to to 44 tabletableuntil Arrange the the cdpes cèpes in in their their sauce sa uce in in fresh cream. cream. Mix. Mix. Arrange spoons fresh aa dish. One tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion which which has has been been lightly lightly One in butter butter can can be be added added to to the the cipes cèpes when when they they are are fried in fried simmeringin in butter. butter. simmering cooked with with cream cream II. ll. cipss CÈPES AÀ LA LA cntlrs CRÈME -- Simmer Simmer C€pes cooked inbutter. butter.Moisten Moistenwith witha Creamsauce(see SAUCE) the cipes rn a Creun sauce (see SAUCE) not too too thick. thick. Cook Cook for for aa further further few few minutes. minutes. which isis not Finishwith withaa little littlefresh fresh cream. cream. Finish Cèpesau augratin. gratin.ciprs CÈPESlu AUcnq,rrNGRATIN - Trim, Trim,wash wa shand and remove rem ove Clpes [rom cipes chosen chosen for for their their firmness. firmness. Season Season with with the stalks stalks from the and pepper, and simmer simmerininaa little !ittlebutter. butter. saltand salt in aa buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, tops tops downdownArrange them in wards.Put into intoeach eachcap cap Il tablespoon tablespoon stuffing stuffingprepared preparedwith with wards. choppedstallcs stalksmixed mixed with withbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,chopped choppedonion onion thechopped the

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Mushroorre sons sous cloche. cloche. cHAMpIGNoNs CHAMPIGNONS sous SOUS cLocHE CLOCHE Choose Choosemushrooms mushrooms of ofmedium mediumsize. size. Trim, Trim, wash, wash, remove remove the the stems, Puteach, each, gills gllls uppermost, uppermost, on onaa slice slice stems, and and season season them. them. Put of ofbread bread which which has has been been fried fried inin butter butter or or toasted. toasted. Fill Fill each each cap cap with with aa little !ittle Maitre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter buller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComCompound poundbutters) butlers)and andaafew few drops dropsofofcream. cream. Set Set on onaagratin gratin dish. dish. Cover ofthe the same same diameter diameter as as the the plate. plate. Coyerwith withaa glass glass cloche cloche of Cook Cook on on top top of ofthe the stove stove at at aa low Jow temperature temperature for for 15 15 to to 18 18

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minutes. minutes. This Thisrecipe recipeisissuitable suitableonly onlyfor forcultivated cultivated mushrooms. mushrooms. Stuffd Stuffedmushrooms. mushrooms. cHAMprcNoNri CHAMPIGNONSFARcrs FARCIS-- Choose Choose mushmushrooms ofthe the same same size size and and weight weight for for this this garnish. garnish. Break Break rooms of the the stalks stalks away away from from the the cap. cap. Wash Wash and and wipe wipe the the caps. caps. Arrange Arrange them them on on an an oiled oiled or or buttered buttered baking baking tray, season season them, ormelted melted butter butterand set setinin the the them, moisten moistenlightly lightlywith withoil oilor oven oyenfor for 55minutes. minutes. Stuff Stuff each each cap cap with with aa spoonful spoonful of of duxelles duxelles (see (see above). above). Dust Dustwith withfine finedried driedbreadcrumbs, breadcrumbs,sprinkle sprinklewith withoil oilor orbutter butter and and brown browninin the the oven. oyen. Mushrooms Mushrooms can can be be filled filled with with various various preparations preparations such such as asbrutnise brunoise(q.v.) (q.v.)orormirepoix mirepoix(q.v.), (q.v.),different differentpur6es, purées,risotto, risotto, various salpicons,etc., etc.,ininthe themanner mannerindicated indicatedfor forall ail those those varioussalpicons, 604 604

MUSSEL Morels. MoRILLES Trim them, several waters, MORILLES -- Trim them, wash wash in in several waters, and carefully carefully remove remove any dirt dirt in the interstices of of the honeycombed caps. Cook them in butter butter in the same same way way as cipes. cèpes. When When the the morels morels are are large, large, divide divide them them in in halves halves or quafters before cooking. quarters cooking. Morels can also be fried without first simmering them in fried without dried after butter. case they butter. In In this tltis case they must must be be thoroughly dried washing. srRoLLEs, Chanterelleg Chanterelles, blewits, blewits, Caesar's Caesar's mushrooms. mushrooms. SIROLLES, All these MoussERoNs, oRoNcEs -- Ail MOUSSERONS, ORONGES these mushrooms are usually prepared according to the methods prescribed for cipes and cèpes and morels. morels. If If they they are cooked as soon as picked they can be fried except for any other in oil or butter without without any other treatment treatment except in oil or butter cloth. thorough thorough washing and drying drying in a c1oth.

fried in in oil oil or lightly fried or butter, parsley, chopped garlic and seasoning. Press the stuffing into the caps caps so so that that itit adheres to them. Sprinkle with grated grated dried dried breadcrumbs, and and pour them. Sprinkle with melted butter over each each cap little melted butter or oil. Brown Brown gently gently in the capaa little oyen. oven. greoque (horsd'cuwe). Cèpes A à la grecque (hors-d'œuvre). cirns CÈPES A À r,l LA cnrceur GRECQUE CCpes Choose small cèpes which which are not yet fully grown. grown. Cook small clpes Choose Artichokes d àh la grecque them in a court-bouillon (q.v.) as for Artichokes (see HORS-D'GUVRE). HORS-D'ŒUVRE). Grilled cèpes. cèpes c&pes. CÈPES cnrr.lfu -- Large white-fleshed c?pes cipns GRILLFs prepared in this tltis way. Make Make superficial cuts in the domed are prepared and pepper. Brush caps. Brush over with oil or caps. Season with salt and at a melted butter. butter. Cook them under the grill grill at a moderate melted under the Cook them temperature. temperature, Serve with Mattre Maître d'hôtel (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Comd h6tel butter butter (see Serve with poundbutters) pound butters) separately cèpes. separately or placed on the cipes. Cèpes Àu LA uor*cnonn HONGROISE - Cook 500 g. Cd,pes ià la hongroise. CÈPES cipes A (3 tablespoons) (l lb.) (1 lb.) cèpes cepes in butter with 2 tablespoons (3 chopped onion which has has been cooked in butter. Leave the cèpes whole if they are cdpes whole are smalI, small, slice slice them if they are large. Coyer with with boiling Season with salt and paprika pepper. Cover salt and Season with (sre SAUCE) cream or with a Cream SAUCE) which is not too Creon sauce (see thick. Cook until the cream is almost entirely boiled down. butter. Add a little butter. Saut6 500 g. Cèpes À L'INDIENNE L'INDIENNE -- Sauté Clpes with witt Indian sauce. CÈPES ctprs A (l lb.) pared, cdpes in butter. When they (1 1nred, washed and dried cèpes (3 tablespoons) chopped are are cooked, cooked, add add 22 tablespoons (3 onion wltich has been cooked in in butter. butter. Mix, shaking the which has tablespoons Indiot Indian sauce pan. Simmer gently, and add a few tablespoons (see SAUCE). SAUCE). pnovBNgAtE -- Cook in provengale. CÈPES À r,e LA PROVENÇALE Cèpes ctpns A C0pes àI la provençale. replace the bordelalse, but replace the way as as for for Cèpes Cipes àd la h bordelaise, the same way crushed shed shalIot with finely chopped onion, onion, and add aa little cru shallot with garlic. Smothered Smothred or stewed stewed cèpes cipes 1. I. CÈPES cipns ÉTUVFs frwrs -- Choose 500 g. (l lb.) fresh fresh cèpes (1 cdpes of even size. size. Trim the earthy part of the stem. Wash, drain and wipe dry. Slice the stalks Slioe off offthe stalls on a level with the cap; if cap; leave the the caps whole or divide them in two if they are too large. Wipe them. pan with some drops Put Put them in in aa pan with 1I tablespoon butter, butter, sorne lemon juice and a pinch of of of salt. with the lid on for of lemon salt. Simmer Simmer with 5 minutes. Tum Turn out into into an an earthenware terrine with with their liquor. Use according to the instructions instructions in the recipe. cdpes ll. Eruvfs -- Wash and Smothered or or stewed stewed cèpes II. CÈPES cipss ÉTUVÉS put them lightly and trim and put cdpes, oil them for for aa few trim the the cèpes, oil them them Iightly few liquor. their Iiquor. minutes under the grill to enable them give off offtheir

ctul.rptcNoNxdnr -- Place given over MUSHROOM BED. CHAMPIGNONNIÈRE established to to the cultivation of mushrooms, nearly always established in old chalk pits. MUSK DEER. DEER. CHEVROTIN cIrEvRorIN-- Smail Small wild deer found in India, MUSK Tibet, and also in Africa. It is hunted for its muslc, musk, the proabdominal pocket. The animal is edible duct secreted in an abdominal when young. (q.v.) can also be AlI preparations suitable for lamb lamb (q.v.) All the the preparations applied to it.

MUSLIN bag used in cooking. Anything to MUSLIN BAG. Noun'r NOVET -- A bag

be he cooked or infused in liquid and later taken out can be put in one of knotted or tied with string, thus of these bags, which is knotted flavouring the liquid without leaving flavouring leaving any solid particles partic1es in it.

all the oceans MUSSEL. MoULE- Edible mollusc found in ail oceans of MUS SEL. MOULEregions. especially in cold regions. the world, especially commonmussel, of mussel, the common There are two main species ofmussel, There mussel, and which which has has aa long shell which is is the the most widespread, and wltich along the back, with a very slight roughness roughness along back, and the Provence mussel, with a larger shell, shell, sharper sharper along the edges, found at mussel, and on seaboard. on the Biaritz, at at Bidassoa Bidassoa and Biarritz, the Mediterranean Mediterranean seaboard. in salt-water pools along this Provence mussel is is bred bred in The Provence little sheltered Toulon and Marseilles. 1Itt is a li ttle tougher shel tered coast, at Toulon prued than the common mussel. and less highly higtily prized and musse!. wild mussels, also be made between between wild A A distinction must must also be made and cultivated cultivated in their natural beds on rocks, and beds and on gathered in hurdles. In In places exposed to the on wooden hurdles. mussels, bred on pounding of the waves, wild mussels are small and leathery; leathery; pounding places are uneatable. those found in slimy places uneatable. On the other hand, produce very in France France produce very good number of of natural natural beds beds in aa number Dives, Port-en-Bessin, Quiberon). mussels (Villerville, Dives, Quiberon). The

Mussels cultivated cultivated on on wooden hurdles Mussels

growing in natural Mussels natural surrounds surrounds Mussels growing

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MUSSEL mussel mussel beds beds of of Isigny, which are permanently pennanently under water, have have to be be dredged. dredged. These mussels, mussels, which which can be up to 12 cm. (41 inches) in length and and are very curved in shape, enjoy a great great reputation reputation under the name name of caian caïeu d'Isigny.

teaspoon curry powder for for the teaspoon the paprika. (see RICE) Rice àd l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE) isis served Rice served with with mussels mussels prepared in this way. pared uourns FRITES FRrrEs -- Steep Fried mussels. MOULES Steep shelled shelled mussels mussels for for 30 30 juice and minutes in in aa marinade marinade of minutes of oil, oil, lemon lemon juice and chopped chopped parsley, after after having having cooked parsley, cooked them them as as for for Mussels Mussels àd la Ia (see below). Dip in aa !ight marinidre (see marinière light batter and deep-fry batter and deepfry in in boiling fat. Drain Drain and and dry boiling fat. dry in in aa clotho cloth. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. pouR GARNITURES Musseb as a garnish. MOULES Mussels MouLEs POUR GARNrrunrs -- Wash the mussels in in several changes of water. water. Scrape. Cook in Cook them them in white wine white wine with with sliced parsley, thyme sliced onions, onions, parsley, and bay thyme and leaves. leaves. Drain and shell them. Use as indicated in the selected selected recipe. The The cooking stock of the mussels mussels is added stock of added to the sauce sauce after having been boiled down and and strained through muslin. Mussels Mussels ià la hongroise. MOULES MouLEs À A LA r,rr HONGROISE noxcnorse -- Cook the the (see below), seasoning Mussels àd la marinière mussels as for Musseb marinibre (see paprika. Strain the them with paprika. the cooking stock through aa fine fine (4 oz., sieve. Cook 100 g. g. (4 sieve. chopped onions slowly oz., 1I cup) chopped slowly in tender. Season very tender. butter until very Season with with 1I teaspoon teaspoon paprika. the stock. (scant t* cup) Moisten with the stock. Add Add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant cup) (se SA Béchamel sauce (see UCE) and aa !ittle Bichanel SAUCE) little fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook thick. Add 22 tablespoons until quite thick. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter to to sauce. Strain and pour, boiling hot, over the mussels. this sauce.

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Breeding Breeding on on hurdles hurdles produces produces tender tender and and delicately flavoured flavoured mussels. mussels. They remain small smalJ but are very plump. plump. Hurdle-bred H urdle- bred mussels mussels can can generally generally be be distinguished from wild mussels mussels by the following following characteristics: characteristics: in the hurdlehurdlebred the hinge (the bred mussel mussel the the edge edge of the shell opposite the frontal frontal edge) is always slightly s!ightly convex, whereas with wild mussels French coastal waters it is always slightly mussels found found in French concave. concave. Poisoning cause skin eruptions eruptions Poisoning ad and allerry allergy -- Mussels Mussels can caus€ and and digestive digestive disturbances to to some sorne people. people. Anyone Anyone with this kind of sensitivity sensitivity should avoid eating them. kind of Mussels can spread spread typhoid Mussels gathered gathered in polluted polluted water can infection infection if if they they are eaten eaten raw, raw, as is sometimes the case case in Provence, almost always cooked the the danProvence, but but as they they are almost gerous gerous microbes microbes are are destroyed. destroyed. On the the other other hand, hand, a poison secreted by certain certain diseased On cannot be be destroyed by cooking, and and may may cause cause mussels cannot mussels serious and sometimes sometimes death. death. At At the the very very first onset of serious illness illness and the symptoms, symptoms, while while the the doctor doctor is is on his his way, way, purgatives and the emetics must must be be given. given. emetics was once once thought thought that, that, to to avoid avoid the danger, it was ItIt was enough to to put put a a piece piece of silver in the the cooking water and enough discard the the mussels mussels ifif the the coin coin turned turned black. black. This, however, however, discard is not not an an adequate adequate precaution, precaution, because because the the coin coin will in fact is tum black black when when the the mussels mussels are are not very very fresh and give off turn is not not in iself itself poisonous. poisonous. The hydrogen sulphide sulphide which which is hydrogen poison poison in in question question does does not not tum tum silver silver coins coins black. black. A useful useful precaution precaution is is to to add add aa pinch pinch ofbicarbonate of bicarbonate ofsoda of soda to every every quart, general general quart) quart) of cooking water. This is litre (scant (scant quart, litre sufficient to to destroy destroy the the poison. poison. A little !ittle vinegar, added as as sufrcient seasoning, also also has has aa beneficial beneficial effect. effect. seasoning, must not not be be thougbt thought that that mussels mussels taken taken from the the hulls hulls ItIt must of ships ships covered covered with with copper copper plating plating are unhealtfry unhealthy because because of contain copper copper salts. salts. These These mussels mussels should, should, however, however, they contain they be rejected rejected because because harbour harbour water water is is contaminated, contaminated, and and be mussels collected collected in in this this way way often often smell smell of of sewage. sewage. mussels la bordelaise. bordelaise. MouLEs MOULES AÀ r,l LA soRDm,enn BORDELAISE -- Cook Cook in MusseIs iàIa Mussels (31 pints, pints, 4f 4t pints) pints) mussels, mussels, trimmed, trimmed, white wine wine 22 litres litres (3* white scraped and and washed, washed, with with aa sliced sliced onion, onion, parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and scraped bay leaf leaf as as for for Mussels Mussels dà la la marinibre marinière (see (see below). below). When When the the bay drain them. them. Put Put them them in in aa bowl bowl or or deep deep mussels split split open, open, drain mussels Keep hot. hot. dish after afterhaving having removed removed I1shell shell from from each each mussel. mussel. Keep dish Make 22 dl. dl. (+ (~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) vegetable vegetable mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) by by Make cooking the the vegetables vegetables slowly slowly in in butter butter until until very very tender. tender. cooking Just before before itit isis ready, ready, add add lf li dl. dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3~ cop) cup) Velouti Velouté sauce sauce Just SAUCE). Strain Strain the the stock stock in in which which the the mussels mussels were were (see SAUCE). (see and moisten moi sten the the mirepoix mirepoix with with it. it. Add Add 22 dl. dl. ($ (~ pint, pint, cooked and cooked scant cup) cup) fresh fresh cream cream and,2 and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) scant tomato prrr6e. p1.lrée. Boil Boil down down and and whisk whisk in in 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., t cup) cup) tomato of lemon lemon juice juice and and seasoning. seasoning. Pour Pour fresh butter, butter, aa squeeze squeeze of fresh this sauce, sauce, boiling boiling hot, hot, over over the the mussels. mus sels. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with this chopped parsley. parsley. chopped in cream. cream. MouLEs MOULES A À L,c, LA cRiIr,G cRÈME -- Cook Cook 22 litres litres (3{ (31 Mussels in Mussels pints, 4| 4t pints) pints) mussels mussels as as for Mussels Mussels dà Ia la mariniire marinière (see (see pints, below). Put Put them them in in aa bowl bowl and and keep keep hot. hot. below). Strain the the stock stock in in which which the the mussels mussels were were cooked cooked and and add add Strain to 33 dl. dl. € H pint, pint, li cups) cups) Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). itit to Mix aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream cream into into this this sauce sauce and and Mix simmer until until itit is is quite quite thick. thick. Finish Finish with with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (f
M ussels dà la la marinidre marinière Mussels

Mussels tà la marinidre marinière I. 1. uowrs MOULES A À re LA u,c,RrN$nr MARINIÈRE - Line a Mussels a (3 tablespoons) bu ttered saucepan sa ucepan with with 2 2 tablespoons ta blespoons (3 buttered chopped shallot. Add Add I1 or or 2 sprigs sprigs of of parsley, parsley, 1I sprig sprig of chopped of thyme and and f, t bay bay leaf. leaf. Put Put in in 2 2 litres litres (3f (3i pints, pints, 4t pints) thyme 4| pints) mussels, trimmed, scraped scraped and washed. washed. mussels,

Add 2 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter cut into very Add (j- pint, scant scant cup) dry dry white white small pieces. pieces. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. (* wine. Cook, Cook, covered, over over aa very very high high flame. flame. wine. drain them. them. As soon soon as as the the mussels mussels are are fully fully opened, opened, drain As Remove I1 shell shell from from each, each, and and put put them them in in aa bowl. bowl. Keep Keep hot. hot. Remove the parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf leaf out out of of the the saucepan. saucepan. Take the Add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant * cup) butter butter to the the stock. stock. Mix Mix well Add and pour pour over over the the mussels. mussels. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. and la mariniCre marinière II. n. uour,ns MOULES A À le LA lamlN$nr MARINIÈRE - Put Put MusseIs Ià la Mussels - Add onion instead instead of of shallot shallot in in the the buttered buttered pan. Add chopped onion chopped parsley, parsley, aa sprig sprig of of thyme thyme and and a a shred shred of of bay bay leaf. leaf. chopped Lay the the mussels mussels on on top. top. Moisten Moisten with with dry dry white white wine. wine. Lay Season with with freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. Cover Cover and and cook cook quickly. quickly. Season Drain the the mussels, mussels, put put them them in in aa bowl bowl and and keep keep hot. hot. Drain Add to to the the stock stock 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Velouti Velouté Add sauce (se (see SAUCE), SAUCE), based based on on fish fish stoclg stock, and and a a squeeze squeeze of of sauce lemon. Add Add butter butter and and mix. mix. Pour Pour this this sauce sauce over over the the mussels. mussels. lemon. chopped parsley. parsley. Sprinkle with with chopped Sprinkle

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MUTTON MUTTON

in the Fish found found mainly mainly in the Mediterranean, MUS1SLE -- Fish MUSTÈLE pesce moro. galea or pesce moro.lt is somewhat somewhat Italians call e,ll galea which It is which the the ltalians prized by connoisliver isis highly highly prized by connoisIts liver similar to to the the turbot. turbot. Its seurs.

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Mussel farmers' mouclade. MoUCLADE MOUCLADE DES Mussel farmers'mouclade. DEs BOUCHOLEURS BoucHoLEURs 'Clean and wash the mussels, place them in aa sa ucepan and saucepan Remove the toss over a a high toss high heat until they open. Remove the empty shells and place the remainder on aa heated plate. Strain the juice of the mussels through through a fine sieve. parsley finely. Blend 'Chop 1I clove of of garlic and a sprig of of parsley with 100 cup) butter. Pour the juice of the mussels 100 g. (4 oz., oz.,1c.rp) into a saucepan and warm over a gentle heat. Add ftavoured flavoured butter, a pinch of curry powder, a touch ofpepper butter, ofcurry ofpepper and finally mussels. Stir Stir weIl minutes. Sprinkle with the mussels. well and simmer simmer for 5 minutes. 1I teaspoon teaspoon arrowroot or cornflour, simmer for for cornflour, stir again and simmer Add l+ dl. 2 minutes. Add dl. $ pint, 3 cup) fresh cream and serve immediately.' (Recipe from

M. Guy

Epaillard

of

and darker darker fatter and MUTTON. MOUTON MouroN -- Mutton, somewhat somewhat fatter properties as as other other much the same properties in our than has much the same in col colour than beef, has little more though more digestible, digestible, though red is believed to to he be aa little red meat. meat. It is cut. this depends on on the eut. prized. This This highly prized. In meadow mutton mutton isis highly In France salt salt meadow pasturd on where aromatic aromatic the coast coast where cornes on the comes from from sheep pastured (Southdown cross-breed (Southdown plants plants are English cross-breed The English are prolific. The and tasty meat, as as liked for tasty meat, for its its fat fat and well liked also well cross-breed) is also weil which provides small small legs cross-breed, which well as as the the Dishley cross-breed, to taste taste of and mutton tends to large cutlets. some districts districts mutton and large cutlets. In sorne are wool grease. grease. In Africa and countries sheep sheep are and several several Asian countries place of bred fat takes takes the the place of This fat tails. This large tails. with especially especially large bred with butter in in Moslem communities. communities. in the cooking cooking of of meat in and firm. Best quality mutton red, close-grained and firm. mutton isis bright red, and evenly lt great deal of firm and white and firm fat which isis white It has has aa great of fat itself. A and in in the tissue itself. the tissue muscular tissue tissue and spread over over the the muscuJar layer of base. In In fat at at the of fat the base. leg of has aa thick thick layer fleshy leg of mutton has less sec:ona-~~ra(le less fat, fat, and and the meat isis less the meat is less mutton, there there is second-grade mutton, only aa very thin thin is only mutton there red and firm. In there is In third-grade mutton layer the surface surface of the the and none none on on the fat on the kidneys and layer of of fat on the meat. In are divided as with divided into into with beef, beef, are cuts ofmutton, of mutton, as In France the cuts three categories categories for for sale. sale. (U.S.A. First cutlets (U.S.A. rib, fillet, chump cutlets category. Leg, Leg, rib, fillet, chump First category. (U.S. English .S. loin loin chops). chops). loin cutlets lamb chops), chops), loin cutlets (U English lamb (U.S. Secondary chuck, neck neck cutlets cutlets (U.S. category. Shoulder, Shoulder, chuck, Secondary category. rib chops). and shin. shin. Third category. category. Flank, Flank, neck, neck, breast and Baron of comprising the DE MOUTON MouroN -- A A cut co:mplrlsing the BARoN DE of mutton. BARON entire the two two saddle and the sheep; the the saddle of the the sheep; entire hind-quarters hind-quarters of hind legs. hind legs. Salt lamb are are usually eut cut in in tbis this lamb and and Paullac Paullac lamb Salt meadow lamb are less less commonly commonly found. way. Barons Barons of of mutton mutton are are served as always roasted, roasted, are served as are always These large cuts, cuts, which which are METHODS, CULINARY METHODS, an intf~rmledialte intermediate course (see CULINARY and their vegetables and their own own gravy, Roasting), with a garnish of vel~et'3.blles slightly nature of of the the garnish. to the the nature according to slightly thickened, according Cooking CULINARY METHODS, Average Cooking time. time. See See CULINARY cooking roastE.. cooking times times for for roasts-. Garnishes Bretonne; baron of mutton. Bouquetiire; Bretonne; Garnishes for for baron Clamart; Potatoes ChâCh6Dauphine; Duchesse; Jardinibre; Potatoes Clamart; Dauphine; teau, prepared in parsley, Anna in sorne some Anna or or prepared vrith parsley, teau, Fondantes, Fondantes, with other Richelieu. Renaissance ; Richelieu. Portugaise ; Provençale; Provengale ; Renaissance; other way; way; Portugaise: (See (See GARNISHES and POTATOES). POTATOES). GARNISHES and Mutton VARIETY brains -- See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARlETY Mutton or lamb brains or lamb MEATS. MEATS. porrRrNE DE Breast part of DE MOUTON MouroN -- This This part of the the Breast of of mutton. mutton POITRINE sheep preparation of ragofits. in the of ragoûts. sheep is is used used mainly mainly in the preparation AlI table for lamb are are sui for breast breast of of recipes for suitable All recipes for breast breast of of lamb mutton. (see for épigrammes hpigrammes (see suitable for mutton. This This cut cut isis especially especially suitable LAMB, LAMB, Breast Breast of of lamb lamb en en énif!ramn:les) ipigrammes). The preparation in the the preparation used with the The breast may he the neck in breast may be used of (se SOUPS AND BROTHS). BROTHS). broth (see SOUPS AND Mutton broth of Mutton Grilled (Car0me's recipe). PoITRINE DE recipe). POITRINE DE mutton (Carême's breast of of mutton Grill€d breast MOUTON 'Take 22 fine fine well-fleshed well-fleshed NATUREL -- 'Take MouroN GRILLÉE onu.r,fs AU AU NATUREL breasts remove knife remove stroke of of the the knife With aa single stroke mutton. With breasts of of mutton. the part of Tie the breasts. Put Put above the gristle. Tie the breasts. the part of the the bone bone above them ions and and aa carrots, 22 on onions in an an oval oval casserole casserole with 2 carrots, them in bouquet (enough (q.v.). Moisten good clear garni (q.v.). with good clear soup soup (enough Moisten with bouquet garni to and cook cook for for 21 2| Bring to Skim and to the cover the meat). Bring the boil. boil. Skim to coyer the meat). hours. in aa press. When When they and put them Drain the them in they hours. Drain the breasts breasts and are without and gently take off the skin skin without are cold, cold, trim take off trim them them and touching where the the meat meat on on the the side side where the touching the fat. Round Round off the the fat.

La

Rochelle).

pour,nrm -- Cook MouLEs À A LA rl, POULETTE Cook 2 Mussels i la poutette. MOULES litres (3! pints, 4| pints) mussels as as indicated for for Mussels àd hmarinidre. Drain and put in a bowl. Decant the cooking cooking stock. Strain and boil down. Add it to (+ pint, (see SAUCE) based 3 dl. (t li cups) pint, lf based on cups) Poulette Poulette sauce (see concentrated and a conc€ntrated fish Add butter this sauce sauce and fish stock. stock. Add butter to to this mussels. Sprinkle and pour over the mussels. lemon juice, and squeeze of of lemon with chopped parsley. mussels as Mussel rissoto. RISOTTO MouLEs -- Prepare the mussels as nsorro DE MOULES indicated for Mussels àd la poulette. Shell indicated for Musseb la poulette. Shell them. them. Strain Strain the in the cooking sauce sauce and and add butter. butter. Put Put the the mussels back in the sauce. ragof,tt in in the middle of aa border border of risotto. sauce. Pile this this ragoût the middle (See RICE). Mussel sauce. AUx MOULES MouLEs -- A A white white wine wine sauce sauoe. SAUCE sAUcE AUX sauce made made with and strained cooking stock of with the the concentrated and strained cooking the mussels, with shelled mussels mussels added. Mussels skewered. - See skewered. MOULES uowrs EN BROCHETIES BRocHETTESSee SCALLOP SCALLOP SAINT-JACQUES, SAINT-JACQUES, Scallops, skewered. Mussel MouLEs -- Cook the mussels mussels as as for Mussel sonp. sotrp. SOUPE soupE AUX Arrx MOULES for Mussels With the Drain and and shell Mussels àd la la marinière. mariniire. Drain shell them. them. With (se SAUCE). Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). cooking stock make aa thin thin Velouté stock make cream. Add Enrich this velouté veloutd with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh cream. butter. Rub mussels in in the sieve. Put the the shelled shelled mussels the Rub through butter. through aa sieve. sauce. sauce. MUSTARD. plants whose Name of various whose MUSTARD. MOUTARDE MoUTARDE -- Name various plants seeds preparation of the condiment condiment known as seeds are used used in the preparation as mustard. The white mustard, The most commonly commonly used are the mustard, used are the white with reddish-yellow seeds, with reddish-yellow black mustard, mustard, with with smaller smaller seeds, black blackish-red (the leaves leaves of are sometimes blackish-red seeds seeds (the of this this plant are used are mainly used in salad) and and wild mustard, whose oily oily seeds seeds are mainly used used to adulterate the the other two varieties. Mustard was Romans. They They imported imported itit was known known to to the the Romans. into Gaul, where quickly gained favour as aa condiment. condiment. where it quickJy favour as There are aa great many formu]ae formulae for for mustard, differing differing There are with each tard is is usually as aa each manufacturer. English mus usually sold sold as mustard fine mustard, with and white white mustard, fine powder, a.a mixture mixture of black and curcuma added. added. It It isis mixed mixed with with water water before before use. use. French mustards, are made made with in the are sold sold in the form ofpaste, of paste, are with mustards, which are aa mixture powdered mustard mixture of white and and black powdered mustard seed, seed, often often with (Dijon are mixed verjuice (Dijon mixed with with herbs herbs added. added. They are with verjuice mustard) (Bordeaux mustard). mustard) or mustard). In In or unfermented wine wine (Bordeaux Italy, Cremona contains crystallised crystallised fruit. fruit. Cremona mustard contains Leaf uourARDE DE DE CHINE curxr-- Herbaceous Herbaceous Leaf or or Chinese Chinese mustard. mustard" MOUTARDE plant, plant, used like spinach, used in in cooking cooking like spinach, of varieties which two of which two varieties are de Chine are cultivated in They are are the moutarde de Chine àd in France. France. They the moutarde feuille (Brassica juncea, e,abbage-leaf variety) and and the de chou chou (Brassicajuncea, the faille de moutarde (cwly variety). They are in season de Chine moutarde de Chine frisée season frisde (curly from October October into the winter. the winter. This vegetable vegetable has has rather aa strong smell. strong smel!. Mustard MoUTARDE -- This Mustard sauce. saroer SAUCE sAUcE MOUTARDE This sauce sauce is is usually usually served served with with fish. It is is made made by by adding mustard mustard to to Butter sauce sauce fish. It (see (see SAUCE). (scant j pint, pint, is used to 2+ dl. SAUCE). One One tablespoon tablespoon is to 2! dl. (scant! generous generous cup) cup) sauce. sauce. 607 607

MUTTON MUTTON

Shonk en

Ieg

Fi

llel

of

leg

(hump chop

loin

B

reo st

Besl end of necfr

(utlel tidd le of neck

Scrog end

of

nec lt

Shou

ldei

English mutton EngJish cuts cuts of ofmutton

efistle is. is. Saw Saw off off the the bones, bones, ifif they they are are too too long, at the lower lower edge of of the the breast. breast. Dip Dip them them in in melted melted butter. butter. Grill Grill over. over. a gentle sure that that they they are are a a good good colour and gentle heat, heat, making sure that, that, while while grilling, grilling, they are are gradually gradually warmed warmed through.' through.' Prepared Prepared in in this this way, way, grilled grilled breast breast of of mutton mutton is is served served (see with Diable sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) or or any any other other sauce sauce especially especially with Diable suitable suitable for for grilled grilled meat. meat. Grilled of mutton mution in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs (Car0me's (Carême's recipe). Grilled breast breast of porrRlNE DE MouroN plNf,r cnnrfn POITRINE DE MOUTON PANÉE GRILLÉE -- prepare 2 2 breasts breasts of mutton mutton as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe. recipe. Leave to to cool, cool, and and cut cut each each breast breast into into 66 pieces. pieces. Trim Trim these these pieces, pieces, leaving leaving the the bone. Dip them them in in melted melted butter butter and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Grill Grill bone. Dip them them and and serve serve with with Poivrade Poivrade sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Stuffed Stuffed breast breast of of mutton mutton à I'ari6geoise. l'ariégeoise. porrRrNE DE MouroN MOUTON FARcTE FARCIE A À r'eRrfcEonn L'ARIÉGEOISE - Cut Cut open a breast of mutton mutton to to form form aa pouch. Season Season inside. inside. Stutr with breadcrumbs crumbs dipped dipped in in clear soup soup and and squeezed, "I.j'LA'-";L"'LA, chopped raw ham, ham, and and chopped chopped parsley parsley and and garlic. Bind with eggs and season season well. weil. Sew Sew up up the the opening opening in the breast.

i

Put in a buttered braising pan, lined with fresh pork skin

or bacon rinds, sliced sliced onions and and carrots. carrots. Add Add aa bouquet garni garni (q.v.). Cover Cover and cook cook gently for 15 15 minutes. Moisten with lf lt dl. (* (1 pint,3 pint, J cup) dry white wine. Boil down. Add 33

±

tablespoons (scant * cup) tomato puree purée and and 3 dl. dl. @ (t pint, lf, li cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown stock. Cover Cover and cook in the oven oven for for 45 45 minutes minutes to to I1 hour. hour. Drain Drain and and serve serve on aa large large dish. dish. Surround Surround with a garnish of of stuffed cabbage cabbage rolled rolled into into balls balls and potatoes potatoes cooked in in clear clear stock stock and and butter. butter. Skim Skim all ail fat fat offthe off the braising braising stock. Boil Boil down down and and strain. strain. Pour Pour over over the the dish. dish. Mutton Mutton broth broth @ng![sh (English cookery) cookery) *- Broth Broth made made with the the breast breast and and neck neck of of mutton, mutton, aa mixture mixture of of coarsely coarsely chopped chopped pot vegetables and and pearl pearl barley. barley. (See (See SOUPS SOUPS AND AND

-

BROTHS.) Mutton MuHon chops. chops. c6rsrnrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON ANcLArsEs ANGLAISES - Mut- Mutton chops chops (U.S. (U .S. English English lamb lamb chops) chops) are are cut cut from from the the fillet fillet of of ton mutton. mutton. They They are are cut eut very very thick, thick, 44 to to 55 crn. cm. (l* ot toto Z2 inches). inches). Roll of the the chop chop inwards inwards and and fix fix with with aa skewer. skewer. Roll the the end end of 608 608

MUTTON

Ne'.*

loin end of leg Eng

ff:f.i,

leg steoks

lish

lomb chop

'Frenrhed'leg

Bone I ess

Ioin

thop

rolled breost

Rib chop Mock duck

(rown roosl Boneless

rolled shoulder Sorotogo chop

Neck slire American cuts of mutton

are taken either either from from the the covered covered or Untrimmed cutlets are call them bouchères. bouchdres. uncovered the rib. The French caU uncovered part of ofthe The term undressed undressed is also applied to a cutlet whose bone meat, after having been detached from the bone and folded back on itself, is kept in this shape by the bone. (U.S. sirloin chops) chops) are are cut from from the the saddle Fillet cutlets (U.S. Fillet lengthwise. of two, lengthwise. of mutton, split in two, c0rel,nrrns DE MuHon cutlets l'albigeoise. CÔTELETTES Mutton cutlets (chops) ài I'albigeoise. MOUTON MouroN À A L'ALBIGEOISE r'lrBrcEoIss -- Saut6 the cutlets in oil. Arrange in with sliced sliced clpes dish with middle of the aa circle. circle. Garnish Garnish the the middle the dish (q.v.) sautéed garlic. Dilute Dilute the in ail and flavoured flavoured with garlic. saut6ed in oil and pan juices with white wine poured into the the pan and heated. Season with aa touch of garlic. Add fairly thin Tomato sauce (ser SAUCE). (see SAUCE). Pour trus this sauce over the cutlets. Sprinkle with parsley. chopped parsley. !'",nalloi.,.,. CÔTELETTES MouroN c0rut.rrrns DE MOUTON Mutton cutlets cutleb (chopa) àI I'anglaise. pepper. Dip in egg and r'ArscrArsE -- Season with salt and pepper. À A L'ANGLAISE breadcrumbs and fry in butter. potatoes or green green vegetables tossed Garnish with with potatoes tossed in butter.

Mutton chops are always grilled. They are served plain as garnishes a rule, garnished with parsley, though any of the garnishes he served with these chops. sui table for mutton cutlets may be suitable Mutton The cutlets (U.S. chops). CÔTELETTES MouroN -- Tbe MuttoD cutlets cOrnLrrrss DE MOUTON cutlets are cut from the rib. According According to the part from which cutlets they are taken, they have different names. covered Chump cutlets (U.S. loin chops) are taken from the covered part of the must be cut the rib. These must cut rather thick. They They are part rib. These rather truck. trimmed the end of the bone and paring away offthe trimmed by cutting off narrow strips of meat on either side of trus the narrow this bone, as weIl well cutlets are excessive fat along the top. After trimming, the cutlets as excessive slightly flattened. grilled, since Chump cutlets are usually method of cutlets are usually grilled, since this this method cooking suits them best. They may, however, however, be sautéed cooking saut6ed or braised. braised. (U.S. rib chops) are neck cutlets (U.S. are those The neck those cut from the rib. These are prepared in uncovered part of the rib. in the same as chump way as chump cutlets, cutlets, but but generally they are saut6ed or braised.

609

MUTTON MUTTON

Gigot

Gigol d'ogneou

Eoron dbgncou

Côte do de filor filet Cirs (mutf (mutton chop) on rhop)

Sefle d'ogncou Filel

tpoulo roul6e

Houts de c

6te lol tcs

(6tcl Côtelottos ettes premiDros

Poitri nc

Ipoule

COte premii re

d'og noou rou l6c

(orr5 (ôtelettes C6tolcttes

Ipoulo

d6couverts découvertess

(ollet (ollet -~~~~~

(ite (ôte

~

so(onds seconde

Côte d6couverte dé,....,t• • C6te

Cèjif

Ipoule roul5o en "bollon"

? Frenchcuts cutsof ofmutton French mutton

Mutton cutlets cutlets (chope) (cbops) ilà la la bouchlre. boucbère. cOrst"errEs CÔTELEITES pe DE Mutton MOUTON AÀr,l LA soucHinn BOUCHÈRE -- Name Name given given to to neck neck cutlets cutlets (U.S. (V.S. MouroN rib rib chopa) chops)whose whose bone boneisis not not scraped, seraped, and and to to cutlets cutlets of ofwhich which the meat meat on on the the bone bone isis cut eut away away and and rolled rolled back. back. These These the cutlets are are grilled. griIJed. cutlets Braised cufleb cutlets (chops) (chops) with witb various varioœ garnishes. garnisbes. c6rsrurrEs CÔTELETTES Braisd These should should be be cut eut rather rather thick. thick. DE DE MouroN MOUTON nnllsfEs BRAISÉES - These Season. Put Put in in aa buttered buttered frying frying pan pan lined lined with with pork pork skin, skin, Season. onionsand andcarrots. carrots. Cover Coverand and cook cookgently gentlyfor for l0 10 finelysliced slicedonions finely minutes. Moisten Moisten with with white white wine wine and and aa few few tablespoons tablespoons minutes. thickened brown brown gravy. gravy. Boil Boil down. down. Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni. garni. thickened Coverand and cook cookininthe theoven oven for for45 45minutes minutesto to I1hour, hour, accordaecordCover ingto tothe the size sizeof ofthe the cutlets. cutlets. Drain Drainthe thecutlets. cutlets. Garnish Garnishwith with ing the vegetables vegetables indicated. indieated. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising liquor, liquor, the andpour pourititover overthe thecutlets. cutlets. strain, and strain, Mutton cutleb cutlets (chops) (cbops) ilà la ]a bretonne. bretonne. cdrsrErrEs CÔTELETTES ps DE Mutton MOUTON A À r,A LA IREToNNE BRETONNE - Saute Sauté in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa MouroN Garnish the the middle middle of ofthe the dish dish with with white white beans beans or or circle. Garnish circle. small kidney kidney beans beans dà la la bretonne bretonne (see (see BEANS). BEANS). Dilute Dilute pan pan small

juices with aa little !ittle clear clear stock; stock; pour pour round round the the cutlets. cutlets. juices with Mutton cutleb cutlets (chops) (cbops) à la la bruxelloise. bruxeUoise. cOreLETrBs CÔTELETTES DE DE Muttm À r,e LA rnu:
i -

Brussels sprouts sprouts saut6ed sautéed in in butter. butter. Pour Pour white white wine wine and and Brussels

Demi-glace sauce sauce (see, (see SAUCE) SA VCE) into into tle the pan. pan. Heat Heat and and serve serve Demi-glace 'with . with the the cutlets. eutlets.

Muttoo cutlets cutlets (chops) (cbops) ià la la c6venole. cévenole. cOTELETTES CÔTELEITES DE DE Muttm Àu LA cfvrNor,n CÉVENOLE -- Braise Braise the the cutlets cutlets in in very very little !ittle MOUTON A MouroN

-

When they they are are three-parts three-parts cooked, cooked, put put 18 18 chestnutso ehestnuts, stock. When stock. three-parts cooked, eooked, 18 18 small small glazed glazed onions, onions, and and 12 12 small smaIJ three-parts lardoons of of belly beUy of of pork, pork, blanched blanched and and fried, fried, in in the the sauc€saucelardoons pan. Finish Finish cooking cooking all aUtogether. together. 55 minutes minutes before before removing removing pan. from the the stove, stove, add add 12 12 small small chipolata chipolata sausages, sausages, cooked cooked in in from butter. Arrange Arrange tle the cutlets cutletsin inaa circle circle on on aa dish. dish. Put Put the the other other butter. ingredients in in the the middle. middle. Pour Pour on on the the braising braising stock. stock. ingredients Carrots cut eut into into uniform uniform pieces pieces can can be be added added to to the the garnish. garnish. Carrots Mutton cuflets cutlets (chops) (chops) Champvdlon. Champvallon. cOrer.errrs CÔTELEITES DE DE Mutton Season 66 neck neck cutlets cutlets (U.S. (U.S. rib rib MOUTON cHAMpvALLoN CHAMPVALLON - Season MouroN ehops)and and brown brown them them quickly quieklyin in butter butter on on both both sides. sides. Line Line chops)

-

-

610

MUTTON MUTTON

Ctump Chump cutlets cuÙets (Karquet) (Karquel)

cutles Chump cuÙets Chump (Karqvel) (Karquel)

an earthenware dish with 3 tablespoons (scant iI cup) sliced onions cooked in butter without without brouming. browning. Lay Lay the cutlets onions top. Pour white stock or water into the pan in which the on top. cutlets were fried, and heat. Moisten the cutlets and onions stock. Add a a bouqtet bouquet garni garni and and clove crushed with this stock. stove, cover and put in in the garlic. Bring to the boil on the stove, oven. Cook Cook for 35 35 minutes. oven. (l lb. on the the top top of the cutlets 500 g. g. (1 lb. 22 oz., oz., 33 cups) Put on potatoes cut into thin little ifif moisten aa little potatoes slices. Season, Season, moisten cut into thin slices. necessary, and finish cooking the ove n, basting oven, basting frequently. cooking in the necessary, parsley garnd. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley Remove the bouquet garni. and serve. serve. Mutton cutlets (chops) chasseur. DE MOUTON MouroN chasseur. CÔTELETTES Mutton c6rslerrrs DE CHASSEUR uté the cutlets, cutlets in butter and drain. For 66 cutlets, cHAssEuR-- Sa Saut6 the cutlets and 6 shallots and put in pan 1I tablespoon chopped shallots in the frying pan sliced very hot hot few seconds over aa very sliced mushrooms. Brown for aa few flame. Moisten (f, pint, 3 cup) wine. Boil Boil cup) white white wine. 1* dl. dl. (i Moisten with with It down. (scant * pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) thickened thickened Add 2+ dl. down. Add dl. (scant brown (se, SAUCE). Toman sauce sauce (see SAUCE). and 1I tablespoon Tomato brown stock and Boil chervil and and chopped chervil teaspoon chopped Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add 22 teaspoon tarragon and chops in in aa the chops Arrange the butter. Arrange and 11 tablespoon tablespoon butter. tarragon circle over them. them. circle on and pour the the sauce sauce over on aa dish dish and Mutton (chops) en in jelly. cOreren chaud-froid chaud-froiil and and in Mutton cutlets cutlets (chops) ielly. CÔTELErrES LA GELÉE cel"fo -- Proceed Proceed DB MOUTON EN CHAUD-FROID nr ÀA LA ETTES DE MouroN EN crIArJD-FRop ET as and Lamb Lamb chops chops lamb chops clups and of lamh for Chaud-froid as indicated indicated for Chaud-froid of in (see LAMB). LAMB). in aspic aspic jelly (see Mutton lamb rarely served cold. ItIt isis usually usually lamb are rarely served cold. cutlets are Mutton cutlets cutlets in this this way way.. cutlets which which are are served served in ps Mutton (c.hops) à la Clamart. cOrsLETrEs DE Clamart CÔTELErrES Mutton cotlets cutlets (chops) MOUTON prepared in in two This dish can be be prepared two MouroN À A LA dish can r-l CLAMART cululnr -- This ways. ways. 1.I. Grilled shed with pois àd la garnished petits pois with petits la and garni or sautéed sautCed and Grilled or française (young and peas cooked in butter with onions onions and cooked in butter with frangaise (young peas shredded green peas peas tossed in butter. butter. lettuce) or, tossed in or, green shredded lettuce) 2. in butter. For sides in butter. For 2. Braised. Brown the cutlets on on both both sides Elaised. Brown the cut1ets 66 cutlets ~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) put in pan 1I litre litre (1(lf in the the pan cutlets put

12 small onions; ail all lettuce, 12 small onions; peas, 1I shredded shredded lettuce, newly shelled peas, newly (3 oz., g. (3 table75 g. o2.,6 mixed with 75 these ingredients previously mixed 6 tablethese ofsugar. and aa pinch of salt and spoons) butter, salt sugar. parsley and with 44 garni parsley and chervil. chervil. Moisten Moisten with Add aa bouquet garni (i cup) veal stock. stock. brown veal cup) slightly thickened brown slightly thickened tablespoons (i tablespoons 45 minutes to to 1I hour. Cover and cook for 45 peas Pile the the peas deep dish. dish. Pile in aa circle circle on on aa deep cutlets in Arrange the cutlets in the the middle middle.. in (chops) en I'ancienre. CÔTELc-OreI,en crépinettes cr6pinettes ài l'ancienne. cuflets (chops) Mutton cutlets the L'ANcIENIIE -- Cut Cut the EN CRÉPINETTES cRfprNErrns ÀA L'ANCIENNE ETTES DE DE MOUTON MouroN EN ETTES (chops) rather end of the bone. bone. and chop chop off off the the end of the rather thin thin and cutlets cutlets (chops) in Drain and and dry dry in in tbeir leave to cool in their stock. stock. Drain to cool and leave Braise them and mixed wi with with fine stuffing stuffing mixed sides wi th fine th aa clotho cloth. Coat them on on both both sides Coat them with aa few few drops drops and flavoured flavoured with diced well seasoned seasoned and diced truffles, trufres, well pig's cau! piece of caul or or thin thin in aa piece of pig's cutlet in of Wrap each each cutlet of brandy. Wrap cutlets in in pork" dipped cold water. water. Dip Dip the the cutlets in cold slice dipped in slioe of of salt salt pork, with melted melted butter butterand and melted baste with and breadcrumbs, melted butter butter and breadcrumbg baste grill grill slowly. slowly. middle dish. Garnish Garnish the the middle Arrange circle on on aa dish. cutlets in in aa circle Arrange the the cutlets (see MUSHROOMS). puree (see Serve with MUSHROOMS). Serve with thick mushroom purée thick mushroom (see SAUCE) made with with the the braising braising with sauce (see SAUCE) made with Périgueux Ptrigueu)e sauce stock cutlets. stock of of the the cutlets. (chops). CÔTELETTES DE MOUTON MouroN AU AU Curried cOrsLETrEs DE mutton cotlets cutlets (chops). Cwrid mutton CURRIE - Sauté in aacircle circle on on aadish. dish. Arrange in cutlets in in oil. oil. Arrange Saut6 the the cutlets cuRRrE(see SAUCE) Cover diluted the diluted to which which the sauce (see SAUCE) to Cover with tvi.th Curry Curry sauce juices left pan added. cutlets have have been been added. pan juices the cutlets left from from cooking cooking the (seeRICE). Serve RICE). Rice àd l'indienne l'indienne (see with Rice Serve with pn (chops) ài lata doxelles. Mutton duxelles. CÔTELETTES cdrn,srrEs DE Mutton cutlets cutlets (chops) MOUTON cutlets in in butter, oraa Saute the the cutlets butter, or rrr DUXELLES ou:cr,r,rs -- Sauté MouroN ÀA LA and mixture Drain them them and parts of and butter. butter. Drain of oil oil and mixture of equal parts of equal pan;add place add cooking pan; place on wine into into the thecooking Pour white white wine on aa rush. dish. Pour (see SA Duxelles UCE) and Pour foraafew fewseconds. seconds.Pour and boil boil for sauce (see SAUCE) Duxelles sauce parsley. this chopped parsley. with chopped sprinkle with cutlets and and sprinkle this sauce sauce over over the the cutlets Mutton (chops) ài lala fermière. DE fermi&re. CÔTELETTES c0nLsrrEs DE Mutton cutlets cutlets (chops) MOUTON loinchops, chops, Fry inin butter butter thick thick loin TrRMItRE - - Fry MouroN ÀA LA Ln FERMIÈRE seasoned pepper,ininaafireproof casserole. For For fireproofcasserole. and pepper, with salt salt and seasonedwith (see 66 chops, pint, lil| cups) cups) Vegetable Vegetablefondue add33 dl. dl. (~$ pint, chops, add fondue(see FONDUE) green cup) fresh or j cup) freshgreen and 44or tablespoons(i(t or or 55tablespoons FONDUE) and i cup) peas. pint,3 cup)white white wine. wine. dl.(i(*pint, peas.Season. Moisten with with IfUdl. Season.Moisten Boil pingscant cup)slightly slightlythickened scant cup) thickened dl.(t(* pint, Add 22dl. Boil down. down. Add brown garni. Cook Cook for for 2020 bouquet garni. and aasmall snall bouquet brown stock, stoch and minutes. pearshapes. potatoes trimmed shapes. into pear trimmedinto 20smalt minutes. Add Add 20 small potatoes bout 45 Cover 45minutes. minutes. foraabout cooking inin the theoven oven for andfinish finish cooking Cover and Serve in the thecasserole. casserole. Serve in Grilled (c.hops). CÔTELETTES DBMOUTON MouroN cOTELETTES DE cutlets(chops). mutton cotlets Grind mutton GRILLÉES Baste andflatten flatten them slightly.Baste cutletsand Trim the thecutlets cnu.rfrs - - Trim themslightly. with grill. underthe thegrill. Cookunder melted butter oil; season. season.Cook with melted butterororoil; Serve with dish.Decorate Decoratethe thebones boneswith veryhot hotdish. cutletson onaavery Serve the thecutlets paper garnish with paper frills watercress. withwatercress. frillsand andgarnish pe Grilled (chopa)ài l'anglaise. Panglaise.CÔTELETIES c0rerBrtss DE cuflets(chops) Gdnd mutton muttoncutlets MOUTON and Dipininmelted melted butter butterand L'ANGtAtsn - - Season. Season.Dip MouroN ÀAL'ANGLAISE breadcrumbs. taste. Garnish tototaste. Grillslowly. slowly.Garnish breadcrumbs. Grill Grilled (clops) ininbreadcrumbs. breadcrumbsCÔTELETTES c0rer,urrEs muttoncutlets cutleb(chops) Grilld mutton p.e,Nfrs- Baste DE withme1ted melted thecutlets cutletswith DEMOUTON MouroN GRILLÉES cnrr.rfssPANÉES - Bastethe

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MUTTON MUTTON butter. Season. Coat both both sides with freshly freshly madc made breadbreadcrumbs. Pour on on melted melted butter and and cook under under the the grill. Serve Serve on on a very very hot dish, garnished garnished with with watercress. watercress. Decorate the bones with cutlet frills. Mutton Mutton cutlets cutlets (chops) (chops) Ià la la hongroise. c6rslnrrrs CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON A À r,c. LA HoxcnorsE HONGROISE - Season the cutlets with salt and paprika. Saut6 Sauté in butter. When they are browned on both both sides, put in the frying frying Wn pan 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped chopped onion, onion, cooked cooked slowly slowly in the butter until untiJ very tender. tender. Season with paprika. Finish cooking cooking all ail together. Serve the cutlets cutlets in a a circle on a a dish. dish. Heap Heap potatoes or any any other other vegetable vegetable saut6ed sautéed in butter in the middle. middle. Pour I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant! cup) white white wine into the + cup) frying pan. Add Add 4 dl. (i pint, scant 2 cups) cups) thick tbick fresh cream cream and and simmer simmer until until quite thick. thick. Blend Blend in 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Pour this sauce sauce over over the cutlets. cutlets. Mutton l'italienne. c6rslsrrEs CÔTELETTES DE DE Mutton cuflets cutlets (chops) iil l'italienne. MouroN MOUTON A À r'nlLrEmNE L'ITALIENNE - Saut6 the cutlets in a mixture of of oil and and butter. butter. Place them on a dish. dish. Put in the pan pan 3 dl. $ (1 pint, lfli cups) Italian llalian sauce (ser', (see SAUCE). Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) very finely diced diced lean lean cooked ham, ham, I1 tabletablespoons) spoon butter butter and 2 teaspoons teaspoons chopped parsley. Pour this sauce over the cutlets. cutlets. Mutton Mutton cutlets cutlets (chops) Maintenon Maintenon. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON MAINTENoN MAINTENON - Fry the the cutlets cutlets in in butter butter on on one side side only. only. Drain and dry in a cloth. clotho Put on the cooked side side I1 heaped heaped of Maintenon Maintenon mixture mixture (see MIXTURE): MIXTURE): a tablespoon of tablespoon Soubise (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) with with shredded shredded trufles, mushrooms mushrooms and Soubise pickled pickled tongue added. Smooth Smooth this tbis mixture mixture carefully carefully into into a dome. Heat Heat some sorne butter butter in in a baking tin and and lay the cutlets cutlets in dome. breadcrumbs and pour on melted butter. butter. it. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs Brown Brown in the the oven. oyen. Arrange Arrange the the cutlets in a rosette rosette on a dish. Decorate Decorate the the Périgueux sauce sauce (see bones with cutlet cutlet frills. frills. Serve Serve with with Pirigueux bones

ing pan. Heat, and pour this sauce over the dish. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. (CarGme's recipe). Pompadour (Carême's Mutton cutlets (chopc) Pompadorr CÔTELETTES DE MouroN MOUTON poMpADotJR POMPADOUR --'Prepare the cutlets in cOTELETTES à la Soubise (braised). Do not sa me way as as those ca lied d called the same purée (see (see heat them but coat with aa concentrated Soubise Soubise purie once with with breadcrumbs. Dip Dip in egg, PUREE). Coat the pur6e once hrp·~t1('nllrn''': a second time and and brown in clarified clarified then in breadcrumbs macédoine (q.v.) (g.v.) in in the on a a dish. dish. Put aa macidoine butter. Arrange on juices and pour pour over over the dish.' middle. Boil down the pan juices middle. la provengale. provençale. CÔTELETTES DE MuHon cutleb cutlets (chopc) (chops) ià la Mutton c6reurrns ps MOUTON A À rl LA pnovsNgAr; PROVENÇALE - Saut6 Sauté the cutlets cutlets in oil. Garnish MouroN gmaU tomatoes tornatoes stewed in butter or oil, sautéed with small saut6ed mushrooms and blanchd blanched olives. olives. Pour white white wine wine into into the the cooking pan. pan. Add Add tomatotornatoPour tbis flavoured veal stock with a touch of garlic added. Pour this sauce over over the dish. dish. sauce Mutton Murton cutlets cutlets (chops) (chops) ià la la R6forme. Réforme. c6rerrrrEs CÔTELETTES os DE MouroN MOUTON A À rl LA nfromc RÉFORME - Season the cutlets and and baste with with white breadcrumbs mixed rnixed with $ finely butter. Coat with Garnish with with the white of harn. Sauté butter. Garnish chopped lean ham. Saut6 in butter. nalra-DOlleo egg, 2 cooked mushrooms, mushroorns, 1I small srnaU truffie, trufHe, 1I I hard-boiled gherkin and and a a small srnall slice of pickled tongue; tongue; all aU these ingredients cut into short, thick tbick strips and mixed. Poivrade sauce (see SAUCE) into the cooking cooking pan. Pour Poivrade Heat and pour over the shredded shredded mixture only. Serve with Heat redcurrant jelly. redcurrant MuHon cuflets cutlets (chops) ià la russe. russe. c6rer,srrrs CÔTELETTES DE MouroN MOUTON Mutton À L.l LA nusss RUSSE - Leaving Leaving the fat on the bone, cut the medallion rnedaUion A of meat out of of each cutlet. cutlet. Prepare Prepare a mince as as for Beefsteak Beefsteak of à la russe (see BEEF). Reshape the cutlets. Dip in egg and d breadcrurnbs. Saut6 Sauté in clarified butter. breadcrumbs. cutlet place a little Arrange in a circle on a dish. On each cutlet rniddle of the dish mound of onions fried in butter. In the middle sautéed potatoes. potatoes. heap saut6ed cream sauce prepared as follows: Pour Pour with a sour creen Serve with the sour cream into the the pan in which the the cutlets have been the cooked. Enrich this tbis cream crearn with a few tablespoons of of Demiglace SAUCE). Boil Boil down down and strain. glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE). breadcrumbs. cdrst.errEs CÔTELETTES Murton cutlets (chops) saut6ed sautéed in breadcrumbs. Mutton DE DE MouroN MOUTON s^l.uT6ns, SAUTÉES, plNfns PANÉES -- Season Season the cutlets. Dip Dip in egg egg breadcrurnbs and saute sauté in butter. butter. and breadcrumbs dish. Serve as as they are, with the cooking cooking Arrange on a dish. butter poured poured over them, or or garnished with wi th vegetables. n"o,,,"w.u',,",,. butter MuHon cutlets (chops) saut6ed sautéed with garnislr. cOTELErrEs Mutton DE MouroN MOUTON s^lurfEs, cARNrEs GARNIES -- Saute Sa ute the cutlets in butter so DE that they they remain rernain pinkishinside. pinkish inside. that Arrange on a very hot hot dish. Pour Pour dry white white wine into the Arrange a few few tablespoons tablespoons thickened brown brown cooking pan and add a pour over the the dish. dish. and pour stock. Heat and Garnishes for for sautded sautéed mutton mullon cutlets. cullets. All Ail those indicated indicated Garnishes for medallion medallion of of mutton. mutton. The cutlets can also be he garnished garnished for of various various vegetables, vegetables, especially Purie Purée bretonne bretonne with purees of with (see PUREE); green vegetables vegetables tossed in butter butter or cream; crearn; potatoes cooked in various various ways; ways; various cheese cheese pastes; pastes; risotto. Soubise. c6ru.rrrss CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON Mutton cutlets (chops) Soubise. SOUBISE - Grill or saut€ the the cutlets. cutlets. Serve Serve ,SozD Soubise purée sor;BrsE ise purie sepa.rately "" 1-"" .:H"" J (see (see PUREE). CÔTELETTES cutlets (chopo) (chops) with varlous various garnishes. gamishes. cOrELErrBs Strffed cutleb Make an an incision incision in in the DE MouroN MOUTON EN EN poRTEFEUTLLE PORTEFEUILLE - Make DE rather thick cutlets. Pull the the edges a little thickest part of rather thickest apart to to form a pouch. pouch. Season Season the the cutlets. cutlets. Fill Fill with a Quenelle Quenelle apart (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed with with diced diced mushrooms mushroorns forcemeat (see forcemeat and trufres truffles tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Close Close up up the the pouch pouch in in the the cutlets cutlets and coyer with a thin thin strip of pork pork fat or bacon bacon rasher, rasher, and cover with string. Brown Brown the the cutlets in in butter butter on both both securing itit with with slightly thickened tbickened brown brown stock. stock. Braise Braise sides. Moisten with

SAUCE). This dish can can also also be be prepared as follows: Braise Braise the the cutlets cutlets in aa very very little stock. Leave Leave to to cool under under a weight weight in in the the strained strained braising braising stock. stock. Drain, Drain, trim, trirn, and and heap Maintenon Maintenon mixture (see (see MIXTURE) on one one side. side. Finish cooking as indicated périgueux sauce sauce is made made indicated above. (The (The pirigueux with with the cooking cooking stock.) stock.) Minced Minced mutton muHon cutlets cutlets (chops) (chops) saut6ed sautéed and and garnished. gamished. COTELETTES CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON HrLcturs, HACHÉES, snutEEs, SAUTÉES, cARMBsGARNIES - Cut Cut the the medallion of lean lean meat rneat out out of of the the cutlet cutlet without without touching the the medallion of fat the bone. bone. Mince Mince the the meat rneat finely, finely, adding adding to to itit $ its its fat part on the weight in in butter. butter. Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Using this minced meat, eut let medallion. rnedallion. Saut6 Sauté in butter. butter. meat, reshape reshape the the cutlet Garnish Garnish with with vegetables vegetables tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Minced breadcrumbs, saut6ed. sautéed. Minced mutton mutton cutlets cutlets (chope) in breadcrumbg cOrrlErrns CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON u.lcrsrs, nANEEs, PANÉES, sAur6ts SAUTÉES- Prepare the cutlets cutlets as as indicated indicated above. After After reshaping reshaping them, thern, dip in the egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Saut6 Sauté in in butter. butter. Garnish with with vegetables vegetables tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Mutton Mutton cutlets cullets (chops) ià la la nigoise. cOrELErrEs CÔTELETTES DE DE MoLnoN MOUTON AÀ n LA mgolsrNIçoISE - Saute Sauté the cutlets cutlets in oil. oil. Drain Drain and and arrange in a circle circle on aa dish. dish. Fill Fill the the middle middle with with new new potatoes fried in in Arrange French French beans beans in in butter butter and and small tomatoes tomatoes butter. Arrange butter. stewed stewed in in butter butter alternately round round the the edge. edge. Pour Pour a little !iule white white wine wine into into the the cooking pan. Add Add aa sauce sauce composed composed of thickened brown brown stock stock and Tomato Tomalo sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). SAUCE). $t thickened Season Season with with aa touch touch of ofgarlic garlic and and butter. butter. Pour Pour this tbis sauce sauce over over the cutlets cutlets and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. the MuHon cutleb cutlets (chops) (chops) Parmentier. cOTELETTEs CÔTELETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON Mutton IARMENTTER PARMENTIER -- Saut6 Sauté the the cutlets cutlets in in butter. butter. When When they they are are well weil browned on on both both sides, sides, add add to to the the pan pan diced diced potatoes potatoes threethreebrowned parts cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking all ail together. together. Arrange heap the the potatoes potatoes in in the the middle. cutlets in in aa circle circle and heap the cutlets Pour Pour white white wine wine and and aa few few spoonfuls spoonfuls of of stock stock into into the the cookcook-

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MUTTON MUTTON milk instead instead of of it with wittr coconut milk moisten it indicated above, above, to to moisten diluting aa grated coconut This milk milk is is made by diluting soup. This clear soup. or ordinary milk, and milk mixed with water, or with its own milk through muslin. sieving this pulp througb sieving A L'AVIGns MOUTON r'AvIGoluse DE uouroN À I'avignonnaise. DAUBE Mutton daube ài l'avignonnaise. Mution pieces. into pieces. of mutton into or shoulder shoulder ofmutton NoNNlrse- Cuta Cuta boned leg or NONNAISEpiece with with aa meat, interlard interlard each each piece the grain of the meat, Following the and spices. spices. salt, pepper and lardoon, and season season with salt, thick lardoon, tbick finely red wine, oil, finely wine, oil, of red hours in in aa marinade of Steep for for 22 hours Steep garlic, parsley, parsley, thyme and and crushed garlic, and on onions, sliced carrots and ions, crushed bay leaves. of of thin thin slices with layers of slices of dish with Line aa deep deep eartbenware earthenware dish (3 layer with 22 tablespoons (3 pork fat. each layer fat. Intersperse Intersperse each pork pork pork and and fresh pork of pork oniono belly belly of chopped onion, tablespoons) chopped tablespoons) garlic. Put Put the little cru the and aa little crushed diced and and blanched, blanched, and skin, diced skin, shed garlic. and with salt, Season with salt" pepper, thyme and on top. top. Season of mutton on pieces of with powdered bay leaf. large bouquet of parsley stalks wi leaf. Put Put aa large powdered th meat. peel in piece of in the middle of the meaL orange peel of dried orange aa piece adding enough enough c1ear clear marinade, adding with the strained marinade, Moisten Moisten with the strained pork fat fat on on top. Cover top. Coyer of pork meat. Put Put slices slices of cover the the meat. to coyer stock to paste. flour-and-water paste. with flour-and-water and seal the dish and seal hermetically with the dish for 5 hours. oven for in the the oyen Cook slowly slowly in French DE MOUTON MouroN -- OId Old French mutton. ÉCLANCHE fcrlNcrc DE ... ,.....,.....'" of "" Eclanche of mution. mutton. of mutton. word for for shoulder shoulder of word DE MOUTON MouroN -- Made Made Eptcnluuns DE mutton ÉPIGRAMMES Épigrammes of mution. Epigramm6 of piece of braised or or boiled, boiled, trimmed trimmed to to the the with aa piece of the the breast, breast, braised with in saut6ed in and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sautéed shape of aa beart, heart, dipped in egg and shape of mutton chop. grilled, and a grilled mutton or grilled, butter or garnished with with different vegetables. Epigrammes can be garnished For lamb en Breast of of lamb en ;>niurt:,mtnp~ hpigrammes. recipe, see For aa recipe, see LAMB, Breast style). Filets mutton en en chevreuil cheweuil (venison style). Fitets mignons mignons of of mution for as for Proceod as FILETS EN CHEVREUIL cHEvREUn -- proceed DE MOUTON MouroN EN FTLETs MIGNONS MrcNoNs DE (see BEEF). BEEF). venison style style (see en chevreuil, chevreuil, venison Beef filets mignons en MIGNoNS DE DE mutton FILETS FILETS MIGNONS of mution. Grilled filets mignons of season; baste baste fillets slightly. Season; the fillets MOUTON Cnrrr,ns - Flatten the Pour with coat with breadcrumbs. Pour oil and and coat melted butter or oil with melted butter or grill slowly. with Maitre Maitre Serve with melted and grill slowly. Serve over them them and melted butter butter over (see BUTTER, or any any d'hôlel butters) or Compound butters) BUTTER, Compound d'h6tel butter butter (see other meat. for grilled meat. other sauce sauce suitable suitable for FILEr DE DE MOUTON MouroN Fillet roast). FILET Fillet of mutton (U.S. Sirloin roast). of mution Name lengthwise. given to split lengthwise. Name given to the the half-saddle, split roasted, This can be be roasted, after boning. boning. ItIt can rolled and and tied This cut cut isis rolled tied after garnishes pot-roasted All garnishes rib or or shoulder. pot-roasted or as for for rib shoulder. Ali or braised, braised, as for of mutton. mutton. for fillet fillet of are suitable suitable for rib or for rib or shoulder shoulder are (of mutton The lamb) isisused of the the mutton or or lamb) usedof The termfilets mignons (of termfilets mignons two found under under the the saddle. saddle. meat found of meat two thin thin slivers slivers of Fillets DE FILET FILEr DE DE BRocHETTES DE skewers. BROCHETTES mutton on on skewers. Filleb of of mution MOUTON lamb into into mutton or or lamb loin of of mutton well-trimmed loin Cut aa well-trimmed MouroN -- Cut Thread these onskewers skewers theseon pieces about inch) thick. thick. Thread about 1-* cm. (* inch) alt.errlating hlanched dip piecc of lean bacon. Season,dip of lean bacon. Season, alternating with with"p. blanched pieces into sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle cover with butter, coyer into melted butter, with grill. melted butter, and grill. with melted butter, and Pieces lightly tossed in tossed in mushrooms, Iightly and sliced sliced mushrooms, Pieces of of bacon, bacon, and butter, added. can also also be beadded. butter, can Proceeding bove, various disheson onskewers, variousdishes skewers, as described described aabove, Proceeding as such of or escalopes escalopes of livers, lamb's lamb's sweetbreads sweetbreads or as chicken chicken livers, such as calf's veal, lamboror veal, of beef, fillets of beef, mutton,lamb calf's sweetbreads,fiUets fillets (for the fillets of of latter omit omit the the bacon),fillets the latter fillets of of various various fish(for chicken, replaced prepared. Lean can bereplaced Lean bacon baconcan chicken, etc., etc.,can canbe be prepared. by does not notneed need to pieces of whichdoes tobe be ofsmoked smoked bacon, bacon, which bysquare square pieces blancbed. blanched. Fillets AUVIN vIN DEMOUTON MouroN AU rrrsrs DE red wme. wine. FILETS Filleb of of mution mutton inin red ROUGE with pieces.Season Seasonwith littlesquare fillets into into Iittle square pieces. RoucE - - Cut Cut the the fillets salt keeping slightly pepper. Cook slightly butter, keeping and pepper. Cook inin sizzling butter, salt and underdone generous 125g.g.(4oz., oz.,generous inside. Drain. Drain. Toss 125 on the theinside. underdoneon 22cups) Take butter.Take mushrooms inin the thesame samebutter. cups) thickly thickly sliced sliced mushrooms the meat. panand putthem with the themeat. andput them with outof ofthe thepan mushrooms out themushrooms Pour pan.Boil Boil pint,lil{ cups) red wine wineinto into the cups) red the pan. dl.(t(t pint, Pour 33dl.

the cutlets. cutlets. Drain and and remove the pork fat. fat. Glaze Glaze them. tbem. the Arrange in in a circle on a dish, and garnish as indicated. indicated. Boil Arrange over the dish. and strain the cooking cooking stock stock and pour pour over down and Prepared in this way, cutlets can be garnished with vegePrepared tables, tossed in butter butter or braised, braised, and served served with garnishes cy" ... n;~h,>~ tables, etc. (see as Chipolata, Forestiire, Forestière, Financiire, Financière, etc. (see GARsuch as NISHES). They They can can also also be be garnished garnished with with vegetable vegetable NISHES). prepared in different different ways, risotto, etc. purées, pasta prepared pur6es, Mution cutleb cutlets (chops) (chops) La La Varenne. Varenne. CÔTELETTES c0rslsrrEs DE Mutton cutlets. MOUTON LA vARENNE VARENNE -- Cut the medallions out of 6 cutlets. MouroN chop this meat meat with with I its weight of dry Duxelles Duxelles (q.v.), Finely chop chopped (3 tablespoons) butter, 2 teaspoons chopped 2 tablespoons (3 and pepper. pepper. Reshape Reshape the tbe cutlets cutlets with with this parsley, salt and in tbem back on the bone. bone. Dip the the cutlets in mixture, and put them and sauté egg and breadcrumbs and saut6 in clarified butter. Arrange with th very thick on a dish. Fill the middle of of the dish wi in aa circle on Mushroom purie purée (se (see PUREE), made made with the addition of with the of g. (4 oz., 2 cups) diced tossed in butter. butter. Make aa diced truffies tossed 100 g. (see SAUCE) ofaa few tablespoons tablespoons of sauce of SAUCE) Demi-glace sauce (see of Demi-glace cooked with witb Madeira. Madeira. Add butter and and strain. Pour over the dish. Mution cl.ltlets (chops) à la os la villageoise. CÔTELETTES c6rrl.nrtss DE Mutton cutlets (chops) MOUTON A À LA in their their vLLIcEoISE -- Braise and leave to cool in MouroN t,c. VILLAGEOISE pUItED with very concentrated stock. Make aa Soubise concentrated Soubise (see PURÉE) veal stock in butter. saut6ed in add sliced mushroolns sautéed sliced mushrooms veal and add stock and each cutlet. cutlet. Proone side side of each Heap sorne mixture on on one some of this this mixture ceed as as for Mutton Mutton cutlets Maintenon. Mution DE la Villeroi. Villeroi. CÔTELETTES cOrsrnrrrs DE Mutton cutlets cutleb (chops) à la MOUTON À cool leave to and leave to cool A LA v[LsnoI -- Braise the cutlets and MouroN Le VILLEROI in (see Villeroi sauce sauce (see Dip in in Villeroi and trim. Drain and trim. Dip in their their stock. stock. Drain SAUCE) and in c1arified clarified Cook in and breadcrumbs. in egg and breadcrumbs. Cook and in and doyley and and drain. butter and drain. Arrange in a circle on a paper doyley sauce or or garnish with with fried fried parsley. Serve with Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see Civet of mution. in butter 24 DE MOUTON Brown in butter 24 MouroN -- Brown mutton CIVET cryET DE li loosely packed cups) small onions and 200 (7 oz., g. (7 diced cups) diced oz.,lt 200 g. and pork. of pork. and blanched blanched belly of Take pan and, fat, brown brown and, in in the the same same fat, Take them them out out of of the the pan thoroughly (generous 11 g. (generous lb.) lower lower mutton mutton cutlets cutlets l+ lb.) 750 g. thoroughly 750 (U.S. (U.S. rib into squares. squares. Season Season and trimmed rib chops), chops), boned boned and trimmed into with shed c10ve garlic clove of pepper and crushed of garlic and spices. spices. Add Add 1I cru with salt, salt, pepper and (3 tablespoons) flour. tablespoons) flour. and sprinkle with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 sprinkle with Cook golden-brown. Moisten with equal Moisten with until the flour isis golden-brown. the flour Cook until parts garni and 22 parts red Add aa bouquet garni red wine wine and and clear clear stock. stock. Add tablespoons) an for an in the oyen oven for and cook cook in Cover and tablespoons) brandy. brandy. Coyer hour. hour. Drain pan and and add add pieces back in the the pan back in Drain on on aa sieve. Put the the pieces sieve. Put the mushrooms pork lardoons, and 24 24 smaU small mushrooms lardoons, small onions and small onions the pork previously over and pour itit over previously tossed Strain the sauce and in butter. the sauce butter. Strain tossed in the for an an hour. cook in mutton. Coyer and cook in the the oyen oven for the mutton. Cover and The of aa with the blood of civet isis thickened the blood The sauce of this thickened with sauce of this civet chicken or rabbit. rabbit. chicken or Curried L'INDIENNE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'INDIENNE nlco0r DE mutton RAGOÛT Curid mution. (CURRIE lb.) lean (neck (41b.) (cunnm DE lean mutton mutton (neck t* kg. kg. (JiDie It on MOUTON) uouroN) -- Dice chops pieces 44 cm. cm. ut inches) square. into pieces chops or or shoulder) shoulder) into Brown (5 oz., Ii cups) g. (5 150 g. cups) chopped onions. lard with with 150 Brown in in lard Season powder. Brown for for aa and 1I teaspoon curry powder. Season with with salt salt and few garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. few seconds on the the stove. stove. Add aa clove of seconds on t cup) Sprinkle (2 oz., moisten with with and moisten g. (2 flour. Mix Mix and with 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) flour. Sprinkle with clear just enough meat. Add Add 1I enough to cover the the meat. water, just to coyer clear stock stock or or water, chopped removed, and and aa peeled tomato, with the the seeds seeds removed, tomato, with chopped peeled garni. Coyer l| hours. for I-!hours. and cook cook for bouquet garni. Cover and on the Pour on in aa bowl. the meat in Put the bowl. Pour out the the meat Take out the bouquet Put sauce, juice. with lemon lemon juice. necessary, flavoured flavoured with boiled down down if necessary, sauce, boiled Serve (see RICE). RICE). with Rice I'indienne (see Serve with Rice àd l'indienne Curried prepared in way as as in the sameway also be the same can also be prepared mutton can Curried mutton Chicken (see CHICKEN). curry (see CHICKEN). Chicken curry ItIt isis also preparing itit in way as as possible, still in the French way the French also possible, still preparing

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MUTTON MUTTON down, down, add a a few few tablespoons thickened brown veal veal stock, simmer to aa concentrated consistency, some butter, consistency, blend in sorne strain, and pour pour over the mutton and mushrooms. Haricot Haricot or or halicot halicot of of mutton. mutton. HARrcor HARICOT (rnr,rcor) (HALICOT) on DE MoUToN Mutton ragofrt ragoût whose name is no doubt derived MOUTON - Mutton from the old French halicoter, to cut into tiny morsels. morsels. There are recipes fs1 for this dish which date back to a a time before the the vegetable vegetable bean (haricot) (haricot) was generally known. known. In one of of the the oldest oldest formulae formulae given given by Taillevenf Taillevent, the following recipe recipe is given. given. all raw to fry in lard, cut into tiny pieces with 'Put them themall sliced onions and some sorne beef beef broth, broth, verjuice, parsley, parsley, hyssop hyssop sIiced onions and and sage, sage, and and boil boil together, together, with with fine-powdered spices.' Thus in in former former times haricot haricot (or (Of halicot) of of mutton was made made without without haricot haricot beans. The only garnish was turnips, turnips, potatoes potatoes and onions. onions. Haricot of of mutton mutton is made made hke like a ragofrt ragoût of of mutton with potatoes, potatoes, and has has nothing in in common with the the rago,fit ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans for for which which the the recipe recipe is given below. below. Mutton Mutton hash, hash. rncrn HACHIS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Made Made from from cooked meat, meat, braised braised or roasted roasted in in the the same same way way as as Beef Beef hash hash (see (see BEEF). BEEF) . Mutton Mutton head head - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Sheep's Sheep' s head. head. Muttm Mutton hindquarter. hindquarter. oousr; DOUBLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- This This cut cut is is made made up up of of the the two two hind hind legs legs of of the the animal. animal. They They are are not not split. split. The The hindquarter hindquarter isis usually usually roastd roasted and and served served as as an an intermediate intermediate meat meat course, course. All Ali garnishes garnishes and and sau@s sauces indicated indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton mutton can can be he served served with with this this dish. dish . Mutton Mutton kidnep kidneys -- See See OFFAT OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS . Leg Leg of of nutton mutton ià I'angld5s l'anglaise I.I. clcor GIGOT DE DE MouroN MOUTON A À L',q.NGL' ANGulsn LAISE-- Take Take aa leg leg of ofmutton, mutton, trim, trim, cut cut off offthe the end end of ofthe the bone, bone, wrap wrap in in aa buttered buttered and and floured floured cloth cloth and and plunge plunge into into aa pan pan of of boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Add Add 44 medium-sized medium-sized carrots carrots cut cut to to look look like like big big olives, olives, 66 medium-sized medium-sized onions onions (one (one studded studded with with 22 cloves), bouquetgarni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and 22 cloves cloyes garlic. garlic. In In the the same same cloyes), aa bouquet pan pan put put I1dozen dozen large, large, tender tender turnips, turnips, quartered quartered and and tied tied in in aa cloth. clotho Boil pound of of meat. meat. Boil steadily, steadily, allowing allowing 30 30 minutes minutes per per pound Drain Drain and and unwrap unwrap the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa serving serving dish, dish, and and surround surround with with the the carrots carrots and and onions. onions. With With itit serve serve the the turnips, turnips, rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve, sieve, and and aa Butter Butter sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with the the cooking cooking stock stock of of the themutton, mutton,with with22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons)capers added. capers added.

Skim and drain the rest of the stock and serve separately. separately. Leg of mutton ài l'anglaise I'angfaise II. GIGOT crc,or DE MOUTON MouroN À A L'ANGI'ANGpur6e of LArsE LAISE -- Proceed as as indicated above, above, substituting substituting aa purée pur6e of turnips. celery for the the turnips, the the purée turnips. (Like the the celery must he the mutton.) be cooked with the potatoes cooked Mashed potatoes with the mutton mutton can he Mashed cookedwith be served served in place of turnips or celery. celery. Leg of mutton cooked according to to the the English method should purée of turnips turnips only, should he be served served with aa puree which are only, which cooked with the meat. grosses piices Carême, in in his his Traité des grosses pièces de de mouton, Car6me, Traili des mouton, advises glazing glazing the the leg after boiling boiIing with with the the usual ingredients. advises He also advises garnishing garnishing with cauliflower cauliflower covered covered with a sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE) . very smooth Espagnole scuce adds that all ail kinds of vegetables and and sauces sauces can can be be He adds of mutton cooked in this way. way. served with leg of 'It is a strange error on the part of of many chefs,' he he conEngIish gounnets gourmets will eat this this leg cludes, 'to suppose that English only if if served served with with boiled carrots and and turnips. What What the only like best best is to see see the the juie juice coming coming from the leg leg when English like they slice it.' iL' they Leg of of mutton mutton ià la .bonre bonne femme. femme. crcor GIGOT pB DE uourox MOUTON A À le LA Leg BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Proceed Proceed as indicated indicated for Shoulder Shoulder of of mutton BoNNE la bonne bonne femme femme (se (see below). below). dà la Leg of of mutton mutton ià la bordelaise bordelaise (Car€me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). crcor GIGOT DE DE Leg À rA LA soRDeLArsE BORDELAISE -- 'Take 'Take a leg of of mutton which which has MOUTON A MouroN hung until until very very tender. tender. Bone Bone it, it, except except for for the the projecting projecting been hung been Stuff with with ham ham and fillets fillets of of anchovy anchovy from which all aIl bone. Stuff bone. has been been removed, and also also with chopped parsley, parsley, 22 salt has and I1 clove clove of of garlic, garlic, chopped chopped and and blanched. blanched. Tie Tie the the shallots and aU the the stuffing. stuffing. Brown Brown lightly lighùy in in butter. butter. leg to to keep keep in in all leg Moisten with with a a bottle bottle of of good good red red Bordeaux Bordeaux rvine. wine . Add Add 22 Moisten carrots, 33 onions onions (1 (1 studded studded with with 22 cloves), cloyes), aa bouEtet bouquet garni carrots, of thyme, thyme, bay bay leaves leaves and and basil. basil. Cover Coyer and and stew stew slowly, slowly, but but of in such such aa way way as as to to reduce reduce the the stock stock to to aa Demi-glace Demi-glace (see in SAUCE). Cook Cook for for 1| 1t hours. hours. Have Have ready ready lf li litres litres (2| (2i pints, pints, SAUCE). 3i pints) pints) perfectly perfectly skinned skinned cloves cloyes of of garlic. garIic. Boil Boil in in aa lot of 3| water. Drain. Drain. Cool Cool under under runningwaterand running water and saut6 sauté in in the the best best water. butter. Keep Keep them them hot. hot. Drain Drain the the leg leg of of mutton. mutton. Put Put itit on on aa butter. serving dish. dish. Boil Boil down down the the stock stock with with 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons serving Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Espagnole 'After taking taking out out the the vegetables vegetables and and the the bouquet bouquet garni, garni, 'After strain the the stock stock through through muslin. muslin. Pour Pour over over the the joint. joint. Dress Dress strain tablespoon Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) the garlic garlic with with I1 tablespoon the and aa small small pinch pinch of of Cayenne Cayenne pepper. pepper. Serve Serve in in aa sauceboat sauceboat and or silver silver bowl.' bowl.' or

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Howtotocut cutaaleg legofmutton: How of mutton: Lefl :p:rallelto parallel to Left: the bone the bone Righi: :perpendicular perpendicularto to Rigftr thebone bone the (LArousse) (Larousse)

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MUTTON ue MOUTON r,rouroN À A LA mutton ià la la bouhngCre. bouJangère. GIGOT Leg of muttm crcor DE r,A, mutton àd la BOULANGÈRE - Proceed Proceed as as for for Shoulder sourn{ciRE Shoulder of of mutton

g. (4 oz., 75 g. tossed in butter, 75 chopped mushrooms tossed oz.,2f (4!2± cups) chopped in butter (3 oz., butter cooked very slowly slowly in chopped onions cooked oz.,li cup) cup) chopped (3 garlic, pa.rsley, aa touch of of garlic, until tender, tender, 1I tablespoon chopped parsley, (see (6 tablespoons, sance (see c,rp) Espagnole sauce and 1 dl. dl. (6 and tablespoons, scant 1 i cup) Season with with salt, salt, tomato. Season SAUCE) strongly flavoured with tomato. pepper and spices. thoroughly. Bind with 2 or 3 eggs. Mix thoroughly. line aa preparatioru for moussaka. Completely Completely line the moussaka. Final preparations for the aubergine skins, mould with with the skins, the aubergine large large buttered charlotte mould buttered charlotte layers mould with alternate alternate layers Fill this purple side this mould side downward. FiIl fried aubergine. aubergine. Press Press these of fried round slices of mince mince and and round slices of aubergine Cover with aubergine ingredients weIl well down into the mould. Cover greaseproof of buttered greaseproof lay a sheet skins. On sheet of On top of the skins laya pan of water and and cook cook the the paper. Stand mould in in aa pan of water paper. Stand the the mould for 1I hour. moussaka in in the oven for the oven on to to aa out on turning out minutes before Let few minutes before turning Let itit stand stand for aa few serving dish. serving dish. made may be If aubergines moussaka may be made are not available available the the moussaka aubergines are (zucchini, courgettes). courgettes). with very very smaIl small vegetable marrows (zucchini, portions served restaurant, the the For served in in aa restaurant, For individual individual portions mould. moussaka is large rectangular rectangular mould. in aa large is usually made in gar ragofit garA ragoût Navarin of DE MOUTON MouroN -- A NAVARIN DE of mutton. mutton NAVARIN nished with different vegetables. vegetables. NAvARIN DE Dts MOUTON MouroN AUX AUx Navarin of nutton witb with potatoes. NAVARIN of mutton poMMEs DE given to POMMES Ragofrt of of mutton mutton àd la la Name given to Ragoût TERRE -- Name DE TERRE (see below). pork (see bonne thout belly of pork below). cooked wi without belly of bonne femme femrne cooked printrnier. NAVARIN MouroN Navarin NAVARIN DE DE MOUTON Navarin of mutton printanier. of mutton pRTNTANTER - The mutton cut into PRINTANIER cut into of mutton chuck and and shoulder shoulder of - The chuck wittr salt, pieces oz.) Season Season with salt, pieces each about 60 ffi g.e. (2t weighing about each weighing Qi oz.) fine sugar. pepper and and aa pinch of offine sugar. (3 tablespoons) With or butter, fat or butter, stock fat With 22 tablespoons tablespoons) stock tablespoons (3 (3 brown the pieces thoroughly. with 22 tablespoons Sprinkle with tablespoons (3 the pieces thoroughly. Sprinkle tablespoons) oven. Add lightly in in the Add and brown lightly the oven. flour, mix, mix, and tablespoons) flour, enough meat. Bring Bring to boil, to the the boil, water to cover the the meat. enough tepid to cover tepid water stirring tan tly, to roux isis weIl well blended blended ensure that the roux to ensure that the constantly, stirring cons garlic, into clove crushed crushed garlic, chopped tomatoes,1 into the Add chopped tomatoes, I clove the stock. stock. Add (q.v.). and a bouquet garni v.). Bring and simmer garni (q. cover and simmer Bring to to the tle boil, boil, cover andabouquet in pieces of meat and and strain Remove the of meat strain hour. Remove the pieces oven for in the oven for 1I hour. the hot water water 10 detach bone bone in hot to detach Rinse the saucepan in the sauce. sauce. Rinse the saucepan splinters. in the back in the and the ingredienb and the sauce sauoe back all the the ingredients splinters. Put Put ail pan. more and and add add smaIl onions, small onions, pan. Bring once more Bring to to the the boil boil once quartered and new new like olives quartered carrots, olives and look like to look cut to carrots, turnips turnips cut potatoes. for 1I hour. hour. potatoes. Continue very slowly, slowly, for still very cooking, still Continue cooking, (4 oz., g. (4 Add peas and 100 g. (6 oz., and 100 oz., g. (6 cup) shelled shelled peas 175 g. Add 175 oz.,l1 scant scant cup) t1 cup) French navarin, still still cooking the the navarin, Finish cooking French beans. beans. Finish "rrp) very simmering gently, for hour. further 1 very gently, for aa further simmering I hour. Skim the navarin and serve. all fat fat off offthe navarin and serve. Skim aIl Noisettes These small MouroN -- These small NoIsETTEt DE DE MOUTON Noisettes of mutton. NOISETTES of mutton. pieces noisette isis leg, since pieces should nolx of of the the leg, since noisette cut from from the the noix should be be cut the practice, however, very however, these these very noix. In ln practice, of noix. diminutive of the diminutive

boulangère (see below). boulanglre

Braised leg of mutton. GIGOT MOUTON BRAISÉ Braised crcor DE DB MouroN sRAtst -- Proceed of mutton

for Erarsed Braised shoulder shoulder of ofmutton as for mutton (see below).

Leg of muttm mutton ià Ia la bretonne. on MOUTON nourox ÀA Leg bretonne. GIGOT clcor DE

LA r,c,

diluted Roast a leg of mutton. Serve with it the the diluted pan juices with a little fat left in them. Garnish with white Purde of smaIl kidney beans à haricot beans, small ri la bretonne, or Purée haricot beans àd la bretonne The garnish must haricot bretonne (see BEANS). The

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BRETONNE BREToNNE

be served separately. separately. (venison style). Leg of chevreuil (venison style). GIGOT clcor DE en cheweuil of mutton mutton en the chump MOUTON EN EN cHEvREUn CHEVREUIL - Bone leg of MouroN Bone the end of aa leg chump end mutton and fix the bone into the so that it prothe smaller end so jecs. jects. Completely the meat with best meat and and interlard interlard with Completely skin skin the

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lardoons, as for a haunch of roebuck. ofroebuck. as fora (see MARIPut the the leg to steep in in aa special Put leg to special marinade (see NADE). in this marinade for sorne NADE). Leave it some time, depending il il on the tenderness of the the meat and days in and on the weather (2 days summer and 4 to 55 days in winter). winter). summer Dry the leg of mutton in aa clotho it. Serve Serve Roebuck cloth. Roast it. (se, SAUCE) separately. sauce or Poivrade Poivrade sauce (see separately. Bone the crcor DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI. n6tt. Bone the Roast leg leg of mutton. mutton GIGOT chump (U.S. loin) leg. For For cooking cooking time of the time see see loin) end chump (U.S. end of the leg. CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average cooking timefor roasts. Serve the diluted pan juices with it. It is customary to leg near near the the projecting bones stud the the leg to stud with 2 or 33 smaIl small cloves of garlic. Cold leg of mutton is me way as roast leg as roast is cooked in the sa same of mutton. garnished only with watercress. mutton. It is served served plain, garnished Leg la cuiller. clcor DE DE or àI la cuiller. GIGOT Leg of of mutton mutton de de sept sep heures heures or MOUTON (A LA leg and cut t l CUILLER) cut MouToN DE SEPT HEURES (À cult lrn) -- Trim the leg sBpT HEUlŒi off the way, but cook for for the end of the the bone. Braise in the usual way, a long time at at aa moderate temperature. After cooking, this mutton should be it can be so so tender that it be be cut with a spoon. spoon. Serve and boiled down. down. strained and Serve with the the braising liquor, strained AlI garnishes indicated for Braised Braised rib rib or or Shoulder Shoulder of of All garnishes indicated for mutton (see (see below) are cuiller. for Leg Lq ofmutton of mutton àd la la cuiller. are suitable for pB MOUTON Leg DrouroN ÀA LA la Soubise. Soubise. GIGOT clcor DE t,c, Leg of of mutton mutton àI la SOUBISE and braise way. souBrsE-- Trim Trim the braise in the usual way. the leg of mutton and When it is is half-cooked, drain drain it. it. Strain Strain the the briasing stock. stock. Put pan. Surround with 22 kg. kg. Surround with leg back Put the in the the braising pan. the leg back in (41 ions. Pour (4+ lb.) parboiled quartered on on the onions. Pour on the braising lb) parboiled stock. all together. together. stock. Finish cooking aIl Drain and add add in aa saucepan, saucepan, and Crush them them in Drain the the onions. onions. Crush 250 (9 oz., g. (9 chicken soup. rioe cooked cooked in in clear clear chicken soup. 250 g. l{ cup) cup) rice oz., l± Simmer for fine sieve Rub the 10 minutes. Rub the onions through aa fine sieve for 10 (or through aa tammy cloth, pur6e, cloth, pressing hard). Heat Heat this this purée, and dish on aa serving senring dish it. Glaze Glaze the the joint. Put itit on and add add butter to it. butter to and and pour over of stock, strained and few tablespoons stock, strained it aa few tablespoons of and pour over it boiled and with the stock and necessary. Serve Serve with the braising stock down, if if necessary. boiled down, the (onion purée). pur6e). soubise (onion the soubise The with the way, with the in the usual way, the usual The leg leg can can also also be be braised braised in soubise separately as for this recipe for in the this prepared.separately indicated in the recipe as indicated soubise prepared purée (see PURÉE). pur6e (see PUREE). Mutton FoIE, COEUR coELJR ET r.r spleen FOIE, liver, heart heart and and spleen. lamb's liver, Muttm and and lamb's RATE parts constitute called the what isis called the These parts constitute what MouroN -- These RATE DE DE MOUTON pluck. Sheep ragoûts. is used mostly in rnragofits. lamb pluck is used mostly Sheep and and lamb Moussaka (Rumanian cookery). MoI-tssAKA DE DE cookery). MOUSSAKA Moussaka of of mutton muttm (Rumanian MOUTON prepared in cooked Using cooked in advance. advance. Using MoUToN -- Ingredients Ingredients prepared mutton lb., 4!- cups) mince. mince. mutton make make 1I kg. ke. (2± Qilb.,4+cups) Cook and lightly lightly lengthwise and halved lengthwise aubergines, halved Cook in in oil oil 66 aubergines, scored it. Keep Keep the and chop chop it. the knife, Scoop Scoop out out the the pulp and with aa knife. scored with skins line the mould. skins to to line the mould. Cook and peeled aubergines, cut into into slices slices and aubergines, cut in oil oil 22 peeled Cook in chopped. g. 125 g. also 125 mince, and and add add also mutton mince, chopped. Add Add to to the the mutton

Noisettes of mutton Armenonville

615

MUTTON MUTTON delicate cuts cuts are are taken taken from the the fillet (loin) (loin) or the rib of of the animal. animal. Noisettes Noisettes cut from from the the rib rib are more more regular regular in shape than those those cut cut from from the the loin. These These may may be be saut6ed sautéed or grilled, grilled, and served with with all ail garnishes nishes suitable suitable for Mutton Mutton cutlets cutlets and, and Noisettes of of lamb (see LAMB). LAMB). Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton muttoo Armenonville. Armenonville. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON ARMENoNvInT Sa uté the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set each one ARMENONVILLE -- Saut6 on on aa small small Anrw Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES) POT ATOES) cooked cooked in in aa tartlet. tarti et. Garnish Garnish with with cocks'combs cocks' combs and and cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, alternated alternated with with the the noisettes, noisettes, and and morels morels in in cream, cream, piled piled in in the the middle middle of the the dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine, wine, heat heat and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton Nichette. Nichette. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON NTcHETTE NICHETTE -- GriU Grill the the noisettes. noisettes. Put Put each each one one on on a a bed bed of browned browned Duchess Duchess potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES). POT A TOES). On On top top of of each each put put aa large large grilled grilled mushroom. mushroom. In In the the middle middle of of the the dish dish heap heap morels morels saut6ed sautéed with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Pour Pour concentrated concentrated veal veal stock. stock, enriched enriched with with butter. butter, round round the the dish. dish.

Bring to the boil. Cover the pan. Cook in a hot oven for about I1 hour. Remove Remove the bouquet and serve serve in a deep dish. dish. This This stew stew has has no no thickening other other than than the the potatoes, potatoes, which which in cooking cooking should thicken the stock sufficiently. sufficiently. Ragoftt Ragoût of mutton ià Panglaise l'anglaise tr II flrish (Irish stew). stew). nlco0r RAGOÛT on DE MouroN MOUTON A À r'.tNclqlse L'ANGLAISE - Prepare Prepare the stew as indicated in the previous previous recipe, but but using only only half half the quantity of of potatoes and onions. on ions. Boil the stew for 35 minutes. Drain Drain on on a a sieve. sieve. Put the the pieces pieces of meat meat back back in in the saucepan. saucepan. Cover with 400 g. (14 o2.,2$ oz., 2t cups) cups) potatoes cut into and 24 into ovals ovals and 24 small small parboiled parboiled onions. onions. Pour strained cooking stock stock over all ail these these ingredients. ingredients. Cover, and cook cook in the the oven oven for 35 35 to to 40 40 minutes. Serve Serve in in a deep dish. dish. Rago0t Ragoût of mutton mutton with barley. buley. RAcoOr RAGOÛT pr DE rraouroN MOUTON A À L'oRGE L'ORGE -- Use Use the same same ingredients ingredients and and procedure procedure as as for Rago,frt Ragoût of mutton mutton with with white white haricot haricot beans beans (se (see below), below), leaving the belly and and substituting for the the beans beans 150 g. leaving out the (5 (5 oz., oz., scant cup) cup) pearl pearl barley, barley, previously previously cooked cooked in in salt water water for for I1 hour. hour. The The cooking cooking water water of of the the barley barley should be be used to to moisten moisten the ragofit. ragoût. used Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with red red beans. beans. nlc,o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Rago&t HARrcors HARICOTS RouGEs ROUGES -- Proceed Proceed u as for for Rago,frt Ragoût with with white white haricot haricot (see below), below), substituting substituting for for the the white white beans beans the the same same beans (see beans quantity quantity of of red red beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked cooked in red red wine. wine. Ragoût of mutton mutton with white white haricot haricot beans. beans. nAc,ofr RAGOÛT os DE Rago0t MouroN MOUTON Ar.rx AUX HARrcors HARICOTS BLANcS BLANCS -- This ragofit ragoût should not not be be confused confused with haricot haricot of of mutton. mutton. Brown in in fat 125 125 g. g. (* (t lb., lb., I1 cup) cup) diced diced and and blanched blanched belly belly Brown of of pork. pork. Take Take these these lardoons lardoons out out of of the the pan pan and and in in the the same same fat fat brown brown 750 750 g. g. (l| to to lili lb.) lb.) mutton mutton cut cut into into square square pieces pieces and seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. and Oust flour Hour over over the the ragofrt ragoût and and proceed proceed as as indicated indicated for for the the Dust first stage stage of of Ragofrt Ragoût of ofmutton mutton dà la la bonne bonnefemme femme (see, (see below). below). first Drain the the mutton mutton and and put put the the pieces pieces back back in in the the pan. pan. Add Add Drain litre (scant (scant pint,2t pint, cups) white white beans, beans, three-parts three-parts cooked, cooked, cups) It titre and the the browned browned lardoons. lardoons. Skim Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and and pour pour over over the the ragofit. ragoût. Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for l| 1t hours. hours. Cover Ragoût of of mutton mutton ià la la bonne bonne femme. femme. uco0'r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON Ragofft LA soNNE BONNE FEMME FEMMECut into ioto square square pieces pieces 7750 g. (l! to to l1 I~ lb.) lb.) AÀr,q, 50 g. - Cut mutton. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and brown brown with with I1 mutton. quartered quartered onion onion in in cooking cooking fat. fat. Pour Pour off off some sorne of of the the fat. fat. Add aa pinch pinch of of fine fine sugar sugar (this (this sugar, sugar, turning turning into into caramel, caramel, Add will give give the the necessary necessary colouring colouring to to the the sauce), sauce), and and 22 tabletablewill spoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour. fiour. Mix. Mix. Add Add I1 small small clove clove of of spoons crushed garlic. garlic. Moisten Moisten with with I1litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) crushed water or or clear clear stock. stock. Add Add 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant * cup) cup) water

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Noisettes Noisettes of ofmutton mut tondàlala tyrolienne tyrolienne

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i

Noisettes Noisettes of of mutton mutton à ln la tyrolienne. tyrolienne. NorsETTEs NOISETTES DE DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ LA rynorrENNr TYROLIENNE-- Saut6 Sauté the the noisettes noisettes in in butter. butter. Set Set each each on on aa small small Anna Anna potato potato (see (see POTATOES), POT A TOES), and and decorate decorate the the top top with with aa spoonful spoonful of of Tomato Tomato fondue fondue (see (see TOMATO, TOMA TO, FONFON-

n

DUE). DUE). Fill Fill the the middle middle of of the the plate plate with with fried fried onion on ion rings. rings. Pour Pour the the cooking cooking stock stock over over tlrc the noisettes. noisettes. Mutton Mutton pie pie (English (English cookery) cookery) -- See See PIE. PIE. Pistach Pistache of of muttm mutton or or mutton mutton à la la catalane catalane (Languedoc (Languedoc cookery). cookery). prsrAcHE PISTACHE DE DE MouroN MOUTON (rrlouroN (MOUTON A Àm LA clr,c,rANE) CATALANE) Made Made from from boned boned shoulder shoulder of of mutton mutton or or part part of of the the leg. leg. The Thedistinctive distinctivefeature feature of ofthis thisdish dishisis that thatititisis garnished garnished with with aa considerable considerable amount amount of of garlic. garlic. (See (See Shoulder Shoulder of ofmutton mutton dà la la catalane, catalane, below). below). Ragoft of mutton. mutton. n,c.co0rs RAGOÛTS DE DE MouroN MOUTON - Ragotts Ragoûts are are RagoOt of made made with with the the shoulder, shoulder, neck, neck, neck neck chops chops and and breast breast of of the the sheep. sheep. These These are are ffimmed, trimmed, boned boned and and cut cut into into pieces pieces weighweighing ingup up to to 100 100g. g. (3 (3 to to 4 3t or.). oz.). Ragofrts Ragoûts may may be be prepared prepared in in white white or or brown brown stock. stock. Different Different vegetables, vegetables, fresh fresh or or dried, dried, and and rice rice or or barley barley are are served with with them. them. served Ragott Ragoût of of mutton mutton à l'anglaise l'ang1aise I1 Oridr (Irish stew). stew). nec,o0r RAGOÛT os DE MouroN MOUTON AÀ r'rlNcLqlss L'ANGLAISE -- Cut Cut into into pieces pieces of ofequal equal sire size 750 750 g.g. (li toto li lb.) lb.) mutton. mutton. Put Put these these in in aa saucepan saucepan in in alternating alternating layers layers with with 500 500 g. g. (18 (l8 oz., oz., 33cups) cups) sliced sliced potatoes potatoes and and 200 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz.,lf oz., licups) cups) sliced sliced or orchopped chopped onions. onions. Put Putaabouquet bouquetgarii garni in in the the middle middle of of the the pan. pan. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten with with enough enough water water just just to to cover cover the the meat meat and and Moisten potatoes. potatoes.

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Ragoûtof ofmutton withwhite whiteharicot haricotbeans beans Ragofit mutton with

616 616

MUTTON MUTTON Tomato Tomatopurie purée(see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) 100 100g.g. (4(4 o2.,4 OZ., 1cup) cup) fresh, fresh, pulped pulped bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the tomatoes, anda and a bouquet tomatoes, oven for for an an hour. ho ur. oven mutton on Drain the thepieces piecesof ofmutton on aa sieve. sieve. Remove Remove the the skin skin and and Drain cooking. Put bone separated splintersofofbone separated during duringcooking. Put the the meat meat back back splinters cups) in g. (14 (14 o2.,2$ OZ., cups) potatoes potatoes cut cut to to look look in the the pan. pan. Add Add 400 400 g. like big big olives, olives, 24 24 smill small glazedonions glazed onions and and 125 125 g. g. (+ (t lb., lb., I1cup) cup) like pork cut cut into into little little squares. squares. blanched and and browned browned belly belly of of pork blanched pour over over the the ragofrt. ragoût. Skim all ail fat fat off off the the sauce. sauce. Strain Strain and and pour Skim Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cover Cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for I1 hour. hour. Bring Ragoût of of mutton mutton with witb celeriac. celeriac. nc'c'o0r RAGOÛT DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU Ragofit CÉLERI-RAVE -- Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated fot for Ragofrt Ragoût of of mutton mutton dà cfrsnt-RrvE la bonne bonne femme, femme, substituting substituting for for the the garnish garnish indicated indicated an an la equal quantity quantity ofceleriac of celeriac cut cut into into large large oval oval pieces pieces and parparequal boiled. boiled. catalane. uco0r RAGOÛT Ragoût of of mutton mutton with with chick-peag eruek-peas, Ià la catalane. Ragofft DE MouroN MOUTON AUx AUX Po$ POIS cHIcHEs CHICHES (A (À r,l LA clurANE) CATALANE) -- Proceed as as DE mutton dà la bonne of Ragofit Ragoût of ofmutton bonnefemme femme,,ursing using for the the first first stage stage of for and little more Tomato Tomato purie purée (see SAUCE, Tomato Tomato sauce) and aa little seasoning liberally liberally with with crushed garlic. garlic. Put Put the the pieces pieces of of seasoning separately. mutton back back in the pan. Add chick-peas, chick-peas, cooked separately. mutton cooking in Strain the sauce sauce and pour pour it over over the dish' dish. Finish cooking Strain oven. a slow oven. AUx MouroN AUX with kohl-rabi. kohl-rabi. RAGoOl RAGOÛT DE DE MOUTON Ragoût of mutton with Ragoft Ragofrt of mutton proceed as a~ indicated indicated for Ragoût CHOUX-RAVES - Proceed cHoux-RAVDs like big look like to look cut to kohl-rabi, cut with celeriac, with celeriac, substituting kohl-rabi, olives and parboiled, parboiled, for celeriac. celeriac. olives RAGoOT milanaise. RAGOÛT la milanaise. macaroni, ài la Ragoût of muttm mutton with macaroni, Ragolit (A LA as for Proceed as rrnrnNllse) -- proceed DE MouroN MOUTON AU r.l MILANAISE) MAcARor.n (À AU MACARONI DE using aa bonnae femme, using first stage of Ragoût of mutton àd la bonnaefemme, Rag ofit ofmutton the first (se SAUCE) and cooking cooking purie (see SAUCE) and larger quantity of Tomato purée the completelY in one stage. the meat completely flat in aa flat and trimmed, trimmed, in Put mutton, drained and pie-es of mutton, Put the the pieces in salt salt half-boiled in earthenware dish. macaroni half-boiled with macaroni dish. Cover with (2| inches), then and then inches)' and water, drained, cut of 6 cm. crn. (21 cut into lengths of6 into the the grated Parmesan Parmesan into cooked Thoroughly mix grated in butter. Thoroughly cooked in fine through aa fine macaroni. Pour strained through sauce strained the sauce over this this the Pour over in the the slowly in sieve, and brown brown slowly butter, and melted butter, with melted sprinkle with sieve, sprinkle oven. oven. I-a on MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA Ragoût nA'co0r DE la niçoise. nigoise. RAGOÛT mutton ài la Ragofit of of mutton (lt toto lili lb.) lb.) g. (lt pieces 750 NIçoISE 750 g. into square iquare pieces cut into Bone and and cut rorgorJr -- Bone and it, and over it, flour over shoulder in oil, oil, sprinkle sprinkle flour Brown in mutton. Brown of mutton. shoulder of add garlic. of crushed crushed garlic. cloves of add 22 cloves down. Boil down. wine. Boil (f pint, white wine. t cup) white Moisten pint,3 lj dl. dl. (t with It Moisten with the Add stock to tablespoons (t$ meat, 44 tablespoons the meat, cou.r"up) io cover cleaistocli enough clear Add enough (q'v-)' garni (q.v.). cup) (se SAUCE) and aa bouquet bouquet garni purie (see SAUCE) and Tomato purée cup) Tomato put the the and put Cook ur. Drain meat, trirn trim it,it, and the meat, Drain the hour. for one one ho Cook for potatoes and and new potatoes pieces 30small small new pan. Add about 30 Add about pieces back in the the pan. back in pour itit over over 12 andpour sauoe and thesauce Strain the onions. Strain browned onions. i2 small small browned 45minutes. minutes. the for 45 oven for the oven cook inin the and cook Cover and mutton. Cover the mutton. vegetable Without verysmail small vegetable add to to itit44 very ragofrt, add theragoût, stirring the Without stirring Cook inin marrows, oil.Cook browned ininoil. and browned diced and peeled, coarsely coarsely diced marrows, peeled, aa slow 15 minutes. minutes. for 15 oven for slow oven rA. Ragoftt osMOUTON MouroN ÀALA paysanne. RAGOÛT RAGofrDE mutton àil lala paysanne. Rago0tof ofmutton PAYSANNE plvsllwn - - Proceed bonne mutton àdlalabonne of mutton for Ragoût Rago'frt of asfor Proceed as femme, and onionsand turnips,onions with carrots, carrots, turnips, meatwith cooking the the meat femme, cooking quartered potatoes. potatoes. quartered - This ragoût and onionsand turnips, onions withcarrots, carrots, turnips, made with also made This ragofitisisalso potatoes celery andpotatoes butter,and andtossed tossed inin butter, cutinto into triangles triangles and celerycut cut likeolives. looklike olives. cuttotolook Ragofit PRINMouroNPRINprintanier.RAGOÛT uc'ofr DEDEMOUTON mutton printanier. Rago&tofofmutton TANIER printanier. of muttonprintanier. Navarinofmutton forNavarin namefor Anothername TANIER - - Another Ragoût AURIZ Rtz- MotrroNAU DEMOUTON RAGoOTDE rice.RAGOÛT withrice. muttonwith Ragofttofofmutton Proceed ofmutton mutton Ragofitof forRagoût ingredientsasasfor withthe thesame sameingredients ProcJedwith \Vith cup) oz',~tcup) 150g.g.(5(5OZ., barley150 forthe thebarley substituting for withbar/ey, barley,substituting rice, serving' beforeserving. minutesbefore 30minutes ragofit30 addedtotothe theragoût rice,added Rib muttonisis Ribofofmutton MouroN- - Rib clnn6DEDEMOUTON mutton.CARRÉ Ribofofmutton. usually braised roastedororbraised alsobeberoasted canalso intocutlets. cutlets.ItItcan dividedinto usuallydivided

2t

(Karquet) mutton (Karquel) Ribs of of mutton Ribs

as served as It should should be be served vegetable. It garnished with with vegetable. and garnished whole, and whole, not include include mutton should should not rib of of mutton A rib course. A intermediate course. intermediate chump. from the the chump. starting from cutlets, starting to 99 cutlets, more than than 88 to more the Remove the chuck. Remove at the the chuck. rib : Sever Sever at whole rib: of aa \Vhole Preparation of Preparation remove and remove meat, and covers the the meat, which covers parchment-like skin skin which thin th in parchment-like Bard the the cutlet bones. bones. Bard of the the cutlet tips of Loosen the the tips backbone. Loosen the backbone. the of with severallengths several lengths of pork fat on with fat tied tied on with pork meat with skinned meat skinned string. string. pn (Car0me's recipe). recipe). cARRÉ clnnf DE I'ancienne (Carême's of mutton mutton ài l'ancienne Rib of Rib from the mutton rtbs of 'Cut two A r'lNcIENNn MouroN MOUTON À L'ANCIENNE -- 'Cut two nbs of mutton from the (rib) from neck. the neck. (loin) to from the cutlet (rib) fourth cutlet to the the fourtb fillet (loin) fillet after fillet, after the fillet, covering the all the the skin skin covering remove 'Completely rem 'Completely ove ail Detach to to fillet. Detach and trim the fillet. trim the backbone, and removed the the backbone, having removed having ribsatat the top the top the ribs covering the meat covering the meat width of of aa thumb thumb the the width the pair of the cutlets so so that that the of cutlets each pair ofeach one bone bone of Saw through through one end. Saw end. ribs of the theribs one of long. Interlard Interlard one inches long. are only only 2t inches remainder are remainder parsleyinto into the the of parsley Thread sprigs sprigs of lardoons. Thread with best best square square lardoons. with other. other. into cutinto anonion onion cut ofan composed of marinade composed inaa marinade 'Put the ribs in the ribs 'Put glassof of halfaaglass pepper and andhalf leaf,salt, salt, pepper bayleaf, parsley, thyme, thyme,bay rings, parsley, rings, good oil. oil. good putitit on onthe the serving, put before serving, hour before anhour 'Three-quarters of ofan 'Three-quarters frequently. paper. Baste Baste frequently. of buttered buttered paper. sheet of Wrap ininaasheet spit. Wrap spit. pour glaze, serve andpour serveand unwrap, glaze, serving,unwrap, beforeserving, minutes before Five minutes Five it.' overit.' clear stock stockover c!ear rl uouroN ÀALA cmnfDEosMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton àI lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib boulambàdlalabouoflamb forShoulder Shoulderof Proceedasasfor BouLANGiRE- - Proceed BOULANGÈRE (seeLAMB). LAMB). langire(see langère r.A luouroN Ài LA oeMOUTON cARRfDE bretonne.CARRÉ muttonài lala bretonne. niUofofmutton Rib Serve spit.Serve onthe thespit. ovenororon ribininthe theoven Roastthe therib BREToNNE - - Roast BRETONNE (see bretonne(see beansàdlalabretonne kidneybeans orsmall smallkidney beansor whitebeans withwhite witb roastseparately. separately. gravyofofthe tl-reroast Servethe thegravy BEANS).Serve BEANS). rib withrib alsobebeserved (seePURÉE) servedwith canalso PUREE) can bretonne(see Puriebretonne AAPurée mutton. ofmutton. of rl rraoutor'rÀALA clnn6DEoPMOUTON boulangire. CARRÉ mutton à i lalaboulangère. Ribofofmutton Rib ribinina a andtied tiedrib bardedand thetrimmed, trimmed, barded Putthe SRAI$- -Put MouroNBRAISÉ MOUTON anda asliced porkskin, sliced skin,and panlined withpork linedwith braisingpan buttered butteredbraising Adda a butter.Add tossedininbutter. havebeen beentossed whichhave carrotwhich andcarrot onionand onion gentlyfor for1515 cookgently andcook Coverand garni.Season. Season.Cover bouquet bouquetgarni. down Boildown wine.Boil whitewine. pint,~ tcup) cup)white MoistenHl*dl.dl.(i(+pint, minutes.Moisten minutes. pint"lilfcups) cups)thickened thickened with3 3dl.dl.(t(*pint, Moistenwith essence.Moisten totoananessence. for4545 ovenfor theoven andcook cookininthe Coverand clearsoup. soup.Cover veal vealstock stockororclear joint. thejoint. thesize sizeofofthe accordingtotothe hour,according minutes minutestoto1 Ihour,

2t

617 6t7

MUTTON MUTTON Drain the rib. Glaze, and garnish it as indicated. pour over the rib. Glaze and garnish it as indicated. Pour over itDrain the reduced and strainedbraising braisingstock stockwith withthe fat thefat it the reduced and strained skimmed off skimmed off. Garnishes for rib of munon. Most garnishes indicated for Garnishes for rib of mutton. Most garnishes indicated for Baron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also be garBaron of mutton are suitable for this cut. It can also he garnished (these ganrishes are very suitable for the riU; riith nished (these garnishes are very suitable for the rib) with pur6es offresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (lentils, purées of fresh or dried vegetables, especially pulses (Ientils, dried beans,etc.), etc.),risotto risottoand andpasta pastaprepared prepared inindifferent different dried beans, ways.

ways. As appropriate, these garnishes garnishesare arearranged arranged round roundthe the As appropria te, these meat or served separately. meat or served separately. Cold rib of mutton c,lr.nn DE MouroN FRorD - Roast the Cold rib of mutton. cARRÉ DE MOUTON FROID - Roast the rib the oven oven or oron onthe thespit, andleave spigand leaveuntil untilcold. cold. rib inin the jelly. Serve Trim. Glaze with jelly. Serveon onaalong long dish. dish.Garnish, Garnish, atat Trim. Glaze with each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along each end of the dish, with bunches of watercress and, along the sides, with chopped jelly. the sides, with chopped jelly. In England England itit isis customary customary totoserve servemint mint sauce sauce with with cold cold In lamb or mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). lambor mutton (see SAUCE, Cold Sauces). psMOUTON Rib of of mutton muttm ài lala Maintenon. Maintenon. CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE ruouroN ÀALA rA, Rib MATNTENoN Proceed as as for for Saddle Saddle of of mutton mutton àdlalaMainMain_ MAINTENON -- Proceed tenon (see below). tenon (see below). Rib of of mutton mutton ài l'orientale. I'orientale. CARRÉ c.lnnf DE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA L'ORIENr'onrnNRib TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual wav. TALE - Trim a rib of mutton and braise in the usual way. Drain it. it. Garnish Garnish along along the the sides sides with with small small tomatoes tomatoes stuffed stuffed Drain (q.v.) of with salpicon (q.v.) (lamb's) liver, of sheep's sheep's (Iamb's) liver, sautéed saut6ed in in with aa salpicon butter, blended blended with with truck thick brown brown stock stoek with with aa salpicon salpicon of of butter, peppers cooked sweet peppers cooked in in oil oil added added to to it, it, and and with with small small sweet artichokes, filled filled with with aa salpicon salpicon of of onions onions cooked cooked in in butter butter artichokes, until very very tender. tender. Garnish Garnish each each end end of of the the serving serving dish dish with with until saffron-flavoured Pilaf of rice (see PILAF). rice (see PILAF). Serve Serve with with the the saffron-flavouredPilafof braising liquor. liquor. braising Roast rib rib of of mutton. mutton CARRÉ cannf DE DE MOUTON MouroN RÔTI nOn -- Trim Trim aU all skin skin Roast from the the rib. rib. Bard pork fat joint. Roast Bard with with pork fat and and tie tie the the joint. Roast in in the the from oven or or on on the the spit. spit. When When itit is is ready, ready, the the inside inside of of the the meat meat oven pinkish in should be be pinkish colour. in colour. should Garnistr with with watercress. watercress. Serve juices, with Serve with with its pan juices, its pan with Garnish the surplus surplusfat (See CULINARY skimmed off. off. (See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, fat skimmed the Average cooking timefor tirne for roasts). roasts). Average cooking Roast rib rib of of mutton with various various garnishes. garnishes CARRÉ c.q,RR6 DE os Roast mutton with MouroN n6n -- Prepare and cook cook as as indicated indicated in in the the preMOUTON RÔTI Prepare and vious garnish indicated. the garnish indicated. Serve Serve Surround with with the vious recipe. recipe. Surround with slightly thickened, pan juices, juices, clear clear or or slightly thickened, according to with the the pan the the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. Garnishes of rmttton. Garnishes suitable suitable for roast roast rib rib of mutton. All AlI those indicated for Baron Baron of of mutton. mutton. cated for Saddle This cut is is most Saddle of of mutton muttoD. SELLE SELLE DE DE MouroN MOUTON - This commonly commonly roasted roasted and and sometimes sometimes braised braised (see (see CULINARY NARY METHODS). METHODS). It It provides provides an an interrnediate intermediate meat course. course. It It is is served served surrounded surrounded by by the desired desired garnish and with with the the pan pan juices, juices, clear clear or or thickened, depending on on the nature nature of of the the garnish. garnish. All Ail garnishes garnishes indicated indicated for RiD Rib or l-eg Leg of mutton are ofmutton are suitable suitable for for saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. proceed Cold Cold saddle saddle of of mutton. mutton. sELLE SELLE FRoTDE FROIDE DE DE MouroN MOUTON -- Proceed as as for for Roast Roast of ofleg leg of ofmuf/on, mutton, served served cold. cold. Saddh of mutton mutton ià la la Maintenonr Maintenon. sELLE SELLE nn DE uouroN MOUTON A À ra LA Saddle of MAINTENoNmutton cut Trim aa saddle sadd le of ofmutton cut near near the the upper upper leg. leg. MAINTENON - Trim Braise is three-parts three-parts cooked. cooked. Strain Strain the the stblt stock and and Braise until until itit is leave leave the the meat meat to to cool cool in in it. it. Drain, Drain, and and cut cut thin thin long long slices slices inside inside the the saddle, saddle, leaving leaving the overhang on on either either side. side. Put Put these these slices slices back back inside inside thE the the overhang saddle saddle with with layers layers of of Maintenon Maintenon mixture mixture between between (see (see MXTURES), MIXTURES), all ailpressed pressed close close together, together, so soas as to to reshape reshape the the saddle. saddle. Cover Cover tvrth with Soubise Soubisepurde purée (se (see PUREE) PURÉE) bound bound with with egg. egg. Put Put the the saddle sadd le on on an an oven-proof oven-proof dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and pour pour on on melted meIted butter. butter. pouriound Pour round aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the strained strained braising braising stock. stock. Cook Cook in in aa slow slow oven top of of the the saddle saddle isis lightly lightly browned. browned. Serve Serve oven until until the the top with strained and and boiled boiled down. down. withititthe thebraising braisingstock, stock, strained

Shoulderofofmutton mutton Shoulder ballon enenballon

Saddleofmutton of muttonàdlaIaMaintenon Maintenozisisusually garnished with Saddle usuallygamished with braised vegeta vegetables. braised bles. Shoulderof ofmutton muttonenenballon ballon ororen Shou1der enmusette. musette.ÉPAULE fplurl DEos MouroN EN ENBALLON BALLoN(EN (mtMUSETTE) uusmre) - - Bone MOUTON Bonethe theshoulder. shoulder. season, and andshape shape ititinto intoaabail. ball.This season, Thistype rolledmutton typeof ofrolled mutton isis calleden enbal/on ballonor orenenmusette. musette.Braise called Braise the theshoulder shoulder ininthe the (seeCULINARY usual way way(see CULINARY METHODS). usual METHODS). Drain Drainand anduntie. untie. pourthe Glaze. Garnish Garnish according according totothe Glaze. therecipe recipe selected. selected.Pour the braising stock stockover over it. it. braising Shoulder of oflamb larnb en mbal/on ballonmay Shoulder may he bestuffed. stuffed. Shoulder of of mutton muttm ài lalabonne Shou1der bonre femme femmeJ.I.ÉPAULE fp,c,urrDE DEMOUTON MouroN rl BONNE soNNE FEMME rnulre - - Bone Bone the ÀA LA theshoulder shoulder and andseason. season. Stuffwith Stuffwith sausage meat. meat. Rolllengthwise Roll lengthwise and sausage and tie. Half-cookititininbutter tie. Ralf-cook butter or lard. lard. Put Put itit in in an an earthenware or earthenware dish dishlined lined with with 600 600g.g.(1(l lb. lb. oz, Ji potatoes cut cups) potatoes or new 55 OZ., cut to to look look Iike like big big olives olivesir'new $ cups) potatoes, 150 g.g. (5(5 OZ., generous cup) pota toes, 150 oz., generous cup) small small half-cooked half-cooked onions and (5 OZ., and 150 g. (5 150 g. generous cup) onions oz., generous cup) blanched blanched and and fried fried pork lardoons. pour on lardoons. Season Season these pork these ingredients ingredients weIl. well. Pour on melted melted butter. Add Add aa bouquet garni. Cook bouquet garni. butter. Cook inin aa moderate moderate oven, oven. basting frequently. frequently. basting Shoulder of Shou1der of mutton muttm ài lala bonne pr bonne femme femme II. II. ÉPAULE nplulr DE uouror* ÀA LA LA BONNE BoNNE FEMMEMOUTON FEMME - Trim Trim aa shoulder shoulder ofmutton. of mutton. Cut Cut offthe end of of the off the end the bone, do not bone, but but do not bone bone the meat. Brown the meat. Brown itit in in butter in in an an earthenware butter earthenware dish dish and and remove remove itit from from the the dish. dish. the same In the same butter, butter, lightly lightly brown (5 OZ., g. (5 150 g. brown 150 generous cup) oz., generous cup) blanched and blanched bout 20 and drained pork lardoons drained pork lardoons and· and aabout 20 small smali onions. Take these ingredients out the dish onions. out of ofthe dish and and put put back back the shoulder of mutton. 3t mutton. Surround Surround with (l lb. 55 OZ., g. (lIb. with 600 600 g. oz.,3t cups) quartered potatoes, potatoes, the the small small onions onions and and the the lardoons. lardoons. Pour butter over the the dish. dish. Season. Season. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently. frequently. Shoulder of mutton Shou1der mutton ài la la bou1angère. boulanglre. ÉPAULE EpluLu DE or MOUTON uouroN ÀA LA BouLANcinE BOULANGÈRE -- Bone LA Bone the the shoulder, (Roll shoulder, season season inside. inside. (Roll lengthwise, if desired.) desired.) Tie. Tie. Cook for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Surround Surround (ll OZ., g. (II 2i cups) sliced onions or about with 300 g. oz.,2f about 20 20 smaU small onions tossed in butter. Season and and pour the the cooking cooking butter butter basting frequently. over them. Finish cooking in the oven, oven, basting frequently. Just before serving, serving, add aa few tablespoons Just tablespoons thickened thickened brown brown stock. stock. ÉPAULE DE MOUTON À Shou1der of mutton ià la bourgeoise. 6pnur.u Shoulder on uouroN A LA BouRcEorsn BOURGEOISE - Bone the the shoulder and and stuff stuff it it if if desired. Ll desired. When the joint is half-cooked, half-cooked, drain drain and and put put it it in Braise. When in another braising braising pan pan or or in in a a deep deep earthenware earthenware disi dish with another with 66 carrots (200 (200 grams, 7 oz.), cut cut to to look look like Iike big big olives olives smaU carrots small and half-cooked half-cooked in in butter, butter, 20 20 small smaU glazed onions (150 (150 and gJazed onions grams, 55 oz.),175 oz.), 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.,lt oz., 11 cups) cups) coarsely coarsely diced diced belly bellyof grams, of pork, blanched blanched and and browned. browned. Moisten Moisten with with the the strained strained pork, cooking stock. stock. Cover Cover and and finish finish cooking cooking all ail together together in in the the cooking oven. oven. ÉPAULE Braised shoulden shou1der of of mutton mutton with with various varions garnishes garnishes. EplurE Braised Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Season Season inside inside with with DE MouroN MOUTON sRArsE BRAISÉE - Bone Dts saltand and pepper. pepper. Roll Rolllengthwîse and tie. tie. salt lengthwise and

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MUTTON MUTTON The The sauce sauce for forpistache pistache of ofmutton mutton can can also also be be thickend thickend with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. ps Shoulden Shoulder of of mutton motton ià la la chipolata. chipolata. fplur,e ÉPAULE DE uouroN MOUTON A À LA LA cHIpoLATA CHIPOLATA - Bone Bone and and braise. braise. Proceed Proceed as as for for Shouldu Shou/der of of mutton mutton dà la la bourgeorse, bourgeoise, garnishing garnishing with with chipolata chipolata sausages. sausages. (See (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton tn in ielly. jelly. fpeurr ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON rNr EN cnrfe GELÉEBone Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stutrwith Stuff with aa Fircforcemeat Fine forcemeat (see (see FORCEFORCEMEAT) MEAT) mixed mixed with with lean le an diced diced ham ham with with I1 or or 22 eggs eggs to to bind bind lengthwise and it. iL Roll Rolllengthwise and tie. tie. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder in in aa stock stock mixed mixed wth with mireporx mirepoix (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook for for I1 hour. hour. Drain Drain the the meat meat and and leave leave it it to to cool cool under under aa weight. weight. Untie. Untie. Skim Skim off off surylus surplus fat fat from and strained strained aspic aspic from the the stock. stock. Mix Mix in in aa little little concentrated concentrated and jelly. Pour over over the the meat meat and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Put Put the the shoulder shoulder jelly. Pour in in an an earthenware earthenware dish dish on on aa foundation foundation of of jelly jelly set set firmly; firmly; cover coyer completely completely with with half-set half-set jelly. jelly. Leave Leave until until quite quite cold. cold. Serve Serve in in the the earthenware earthenware dish. dish. Shoulder Shoulder of of muttm mutton with with rice. rice. fpitulE ÉPAULE DE DE MouroN MOUTON AU AU RIz RIZthree-parts and tie. Bone. Bone. Roll Roll lengthwise lengthwise and rie. Braise Braise until until three-parts stock. thin stock. amount of cooked, cooked, moistening moistening with with aa fair fair amount of rather rather thin (1 lb. 3 oz'' g' (1 500 g. Add 500 another saucepan. Drain Drain and and put put it in in another saucepan. Add lb. 3 oz., stock. strained stock. with the Moisten with cups) parboiled 3| cups) 3! parboiled rice. rice. Moisten the strained all together. together Finish cooking ail Finish cooking DE MOUTON MouroN 6pAws DE braised" ÉPAULE muttoq braised. of mutton, shoulder of Stuffed shoulder inside. and season season inside. shoulder and Bone the the shoulder sRAtsfo - Bone FARcIE FARCIE BRAISÉE (see FORCEMEATS, Por& FORCEMEATS, Pork pork stuffing stufing (sec Fine pork with Fine Stuff with Stuff (5 oz., g. (5 cups) o2.,1| 150 g. with 150 mixed with or stuffingJine) stuffing,fine) mixed li cups) forcemeat or very tender tend€r and until very in bu butter cooked in onions cooked chopped onions Uer until 14 g.1I for 500 500 g. quantities are are for These quantities parsley. These chopped parsley. tableipoon chopped tablespoon with salt, salt, well with Season weil (1 lb. stuffing. Season generous 22 cups) cups) stuffing. lb. 33 oz., generous (1 and tie. tie. lengthwise and shoulder lengthwise Roll the the shoulder pepper and and spices. spices. Roll pepper with mutton with Braised mutton for Braised recipe for in the the recipe as indicated indicated in Braise as Braise garnishes. various garnishes. various Pour 'on bn the the preceding recipe. recipe. Pour in the the preceding as indicated indicated in Garnish as and strained. strained. down and boiled down stock, boiled braising stock, braising la bourguignonne. bouguignonne. en daube daube à la mutton en of mutton shoulder of Strffd shoulder Stuffed nour'culcNoNNE A LA Ll BOURGUIGNONNEDAUBts À EN DAUBE FARCIE EN MouroN FARCIE DE MOUTON 6plur.u DE ÉPAULE (see pork stuffing stuffing (see fine pork with fine Stuff itit with Bone the the shoulder. shoulder. Stuff Bone to this adding STUFFINGS), FOR FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS FOR STUFFINGS), ad ding to this 1I very tender, tender, 33 until very in butter butter until cooked slowly slowly in onion cooked chopped onion chopped (q.v.), and some and some (scant t cup) dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.), cup) dry tablespoons (scant tablespoons parsley. chopped parsley. chopped (en ballon musette, see see en musette, or en ballon or ball (en into aa bail Roll the the shoulder shoulder into Roll drain, half-cooked, drain, When itit isis half-cooked, wine. When red wine. in red and braise above), and braise in above), 2N g.gAdd 200 dish. Add earthenware dish. put itit in deep earthenware in aa deep and put untie and untie glazed 20 small smallglazed in butter, butter, 20 (7 oz., tossed in mushrooms tossed cups) mushrooms o2.,2 (7 2 cups) (4 oz., coarsely cup) coarsely or, 1I cup) 125 g.g. (4t (150 grams, grams,5 oz.\, 125 onions (150 onions 5 oz.), with Moisten with and'browned. pork, blanched blanched and· of pork, diced belly belly of browned. Moisten diced tabletablespoons (3(3 tableAdd 22 tablespoons stock. Add cooking stock. the strained strained cooking the flour-andwith flour-andSeal with dish. Seal thedish. Cover the brandy. Coyer blazing brandy. spoons) blazing spoons)

Put itit in in aa buttered buttered braising braising pan pan lined lined with with pork pork skin skin or or Put bacon rinds, rinds, carrots carrots and and onions onions sliced sliced and and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. bacon Surround the the shoulder shoulder with with its its bones bones and and trimmings trimmings cut cut into into Surround small pieces pieces and and tossed tossed in in butter. bu tter. Add Add aa latge large bouquet bouquet garni garni small (q.v.). (q.v.). Season. Season. Cover Coyer and and cook cook gently gently for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. (* (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil Moisten down. Add Add 44 dl. dl. G(à- pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown stock stock down. and 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scantI (scant t cap) cup) Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). and Bring to to the the boil. boil. Bring Coyer and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen for for about about 1| I"Î hours. hours. Drain Drain and and Cover unrie the the shoulder. shoulder. Glazn, Glaze in in the the oven. oyen. Put Put itit on on aa dish dish and and untie surround with with a a suitable suitable garnish. gamish. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising surround stock, remove remove surplus surplus fat, fat, strain strain and and pour pour over over the the meat. meat. stoch Suitable garnishes garnishes for for braised braised shoulder shoulder of of mutton' mutton. Nl AlI Suitable Braised for garnishes indicated for Braised rh rib of of mutton, mut ton, especially especially garnishes indicated -Bretonnc Bretonne garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES), GARNISHES), various various vegetable vegetable purées, dri-ed dried vegetables vegetables in particular (see (sec PUREE),.risotto, PURÉE),.risotto, pur6es, and pasta pasta prepared prepared in various various ways. ways. and Shoulder of of mutton mutton ià lr la bretonne. bretonne. rp,q'urr ÉPAULE os DE MouroN MOUTON A À LA, LA Shoulder with white haricot BRETONNE - Bone and braise. braise. Garnish with BREToNNE beans d àh la bretonne bretonne (see (see BEANS), or or beans or small Kidney beans beans (see with a a puree purée of of White White haricot haricot beans d à h la bretonne bretonne (sec with PURÉE). Pour the strained braising stock stock over over the shoulder. strained braising PUREE). of nutton mutton with with red cabbage cabbage ài la flamandeflamande. tpluI,s ÉPAULE Shoolder of Shoulder le rr-lueNoe MOUTON ALx AUX cHoux CHOUX RoucEs, ROUGFS, A À LA FLAMANDE -- Bone the DE MouroN lengthwise and tie. Braise Rolllengthwise shoulder and stuff stuff if desired. Roll dish with deep earthenware dish until half-cooked. half-cooked. Line aa deep with red until (see CAB CABBAGE) laflamanfu (see BAGE) but which prepared àd laflamande cabbage prepared and coyer cover s1 this bed bed and is only half-cooked. half-cooked. Lay the shoulder on oven. the oyen. Cover and cook slowly in the with more red cabbage. Coyer back When the shoulder is ready, drain and untie it. Put it back it aa few few tablein the cabbage. Pour over it in the the dish on top of the spoons of stock. ue fplur,E DE eu pistache. ÉPAULE or en Shoulder of mutton ài la catalane or (F.I PISTACHE) Bone the the shoulder, shoulder, ntsucru) -- Bone MOUTON A LA r.l, CATALANE cernr,AI.IE (EN MouroN À large lined with 1I large in aa saucepan saucepan lined rolllengthwise roll lengthwise and tie. Put itit in and carrot. carrot. (not smoked), onion and sliced onion slice of raw harn smoked), 1I sliced ham (not goose (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) goose Season. tablespoons (3 over itit 22 tablespoons Season. Pour Pour over 30 25 to to 30 for 25 gently on on the the stove stove for fat cook gently and cook lard. Coyer fat or Cover and or lard. out of of the the of ham ham out slice of and the the slice minutes. Take the shoulder and minutes. Take the shoulder (3 tablespoons) in it.it. flour in tablespoons) flour pan. pan. Brown tablespoons (3 Brown 22 tablespoons dl. Add 44 dl. wine. Add white wine. (* pint, pint" scant cup) white Moisten scant cup) dl. (t with 22 dl. Moisten with well; Mix weI!; clear soup. soup. Mix or clear (à-(* pint, stock or pint" scant cups) brown brown stock scant 22 cups) joint, and in the the back in ham, diced, diced, back of harn, strain. and the the slice slice of Put the the joint, strain. Put garlic and and aa bouquet bouquet of garlic cloves of saucepan. 50 blanched blanched cloyes Add 50 saucepan. Add peel' Moisten Moisten piece dried orange peel. dried orange (q.v.\ containing garni garni (q.v.) containing 1I piece oven moderate oyen in aa moderate and cook cook in with Cover and cooking stock. stock. Coyer with the the cooking for hour. for about about 1I hour. over itit dish. Pour Pour over on aa dish. Drain Put on shoulder. Put and untie untie the the shoulder. Drain and garlic. the of garlic. cloves of and the the cloyes the sauce sauce and

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(Inrousse) of mutton(Larousse) shoulderofmutton Rolledshoulder Rolled

(Latousse) Untrimmed of mutton (Larousse) shoulderofmutton Untrimmed shoulder

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MYRTLE MYRTLE paste and water paste and cook cook inin the theoven ovenfor 45 minutes for 45 minutes toto1I bour, hour, water according to to tbe thesize sizeof of the theshoulder. shoulder. according Shoulderof of mutton muttm witb with trnnipo ÉPAULE 6p,lurn DE DE MOUTON MouroN AUX Atx Sboulder NAvErs Bone the shoulder shoulder and stuff if desired. RolliengthRoll lengthNAVETS -- Bone the wise and and tie. tie. Braise Braise until until three-parts cooked. cooked. Drain, put the Drain, put the wise shoulder in in another another saucepan (2 lb. sauoepan with 1I kg. kg. (2 lb. 33oz., oz.,seant scant 66 shoulder cups) tender tender tumips, turnips, cut cut to look like like big to look olives and big olives and browned browned cups) in butter, and 30 (9 oz.) butter, and 30 sm g. (9 small onions 250 250 g. oz.) aiso also browned browned in in in ail onions the frying pan. the Skim all fat off off the the braising braising stock, stock, strain, pour over strain, and and pour over the dish. dish. Finisb Finish cooking cooking ail all together. together. the Slicd muttol1. mutton ÉMINCÉS nrr,rnrcfs DE DEMOUTON Mor.rroN -- Prepare with cooked Sliced mutton, in in the (see BEEF). the same way as same way as Sliced Slicedbeef mutton, beef(see (Car€me,s recipe). Braised sheep's sheep's tails tails (Carême's recipe). QUEUES DB MOUTON MouroN euEUEs DE Braised nndsfss -- 'Take 12 medium-sized 'Take 12 medium-sized tails. tails. Soak Soak in in co cold water BRAISÉES Id water for 1I hour. hour. Pour Pour boiling boiling water water over over them. them. Line saucepan Line aa saucepan for with mutton mutton trimmings, (q.v.), 22 onions, garni (q.v.), trimmings, aa bouquet bouquet garni onions, 22 with carrots. Cover with thin Cover with thin strips pork. Tie strips of of belly belly of of pork. Tie the the tails tails carrots. pairs. Moisten in pairs. good c1ear with good Moisten witb clear soup. soup. Cook for li l| hours. Cook for hours. in Drain the the tails and put them tails and thern in in aa press. Skim Skim ail all fat fat off off the the Drain jelly. When the stock; boil boil down down almost to to aa jelly. the tails tails are are cold, cold, stock;

trimthem andheat themand heatslowly slowly ininthe reducingthis thestock, stock, reducing thisslowly slowly trim jelly.Tum liquid jelly. Turn the the tails tailsover over and andover overso sothat are that they they are totoaaliquid thoroughly irnnr'>OT1I"t"f'i impregnated with with this thrWI"'t110hhl this liquid jelly. Serve Serve them them like cutlets, with Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE), boiled down boileddown like (reduced) toto halfits half its volume.' (reduced) (Car0me,s recipe). QUEUES Gdlld sheep's sherp's tails taib(Carême's DEMOUTON MouroN Grilled. erJEr.JEr DE plc'NErs crurdss-Prepare 12 sheep's tails as indicated PANÉES GRILLÉES - Prepare 12 sheep's as indicated ininthe the previous recipe, recipe, trim trirn them, them, dip them them inin melted melted butter butter and and breadcrumbs, and grill until and grill good colour. until they are areaagood colour. Serve Serve with Hachée Hachde sauce sauce or (sen, SAUCE). or aa thin thin Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see with Sheep's tongues tongues -- See See OFF OFFAL OR VVARIETY Sbeep's AL OR ARIETY MEATS. Sheep's trotters trotters -- See SeeOFFAL OFFAL OR VARIETY MEATS. OR VARIETY MEATS. Sheep's MYRTLE. MYRTE MyRrE -- Fragrant Fragrant evergreen evergreen shrub shrub corumon common aU MYRTLE. all over Europe. Europe. Myrtle Myrtle berries berries were were used place of in place pepper usedin over of pepper among the ancients, and the ancients, and ev gave their even their name name to among en gave to aa stew, stew, myrtalum. There There was was also also aa spiced spiced wine wine made from myrtle myrtle myrtalum. made from (Myrtidanum). (Myrtidanum). pepper myrtle has The pepper has leaves leaves similar similar to to those The those of of the the bay bay powdered berries tree. Its Its nO'wden~ berries are are known known as pepper. as Jamaican Jamaican pepper. tree. MYSOST -_ See See CHEESE. CHEESE. MYSOST

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and Savoie Savoie cakes which,like NAPOLITAIN NAPOLITAIN - Large Large cakes which, like breton breton and once used were once and croquembouche, croquembouche, were cakes, millefeuilles and used to to

NAGE (A (À L.q,) LA) -- Method of preparing 1-/'''lJ
decorate elaborate buffets. buffets. In ln former former times itit was was customary ~U~jLUlllaJ to place at each end of a decorated a large dinner party table set for a table set large dinner party either an imposing imposing decorated practice This practice or other other shellfish. shellfish. This pastry or crayfish or of crayfish or aa heap pastry heap of are still napolitains are still although napolitains and although has now been abandoned, and usually smalL small. made, they are now usually in was created created in that itit was cake suggests that The name name of of this The this cake who probably the invention invention of of CarOme, who It isis more probably Naples. It to magnificent pastries ta large and and magnificent pieces of great set of large made great set pieces gave the names. the names. he himself gave which he (f; lb., 2t 2] cups) g. (lib., cups) 365 g. napolitain: 365 For aa large napolitain: Ingredients. For Ingredients. (* oz., tablespoon) oz., 1I tablespoon) 12* g. (t sweet almonds, 12t blanched sweet blanched g. (6 OZ., cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, 175 g. oz., i cup) almonds, 175 bitter almonds, blanched bitter g.(18 (9 OZ., 500 g. cups) scant 1l+ cu 250 g. (9 oz' seant ps) butter, 500 (18 o2.,4| 4! cups) 250 flavoured oz., 22 tat)je~;polonsl tablespoons) sugar fiavcmn:d flour, 30 30 g. (l OZ., cake flour, sieved cake (or any salt. any other flavouring) aa pinch of salt. with lemon (or paste to aa fine fine paste mortar ta in aa mortar almonds in Method, Pound Pound the the almonds Method. fine sugar, sugar, Add the the fine them. Add to bind bind them. little white egg to of egg white of with aa little with conPounding conflour. Pounding and fiour. the butter butter and sugar, the flavoured sugar, the fiavoured the make aa to rnake as are are required to whole eggs as add as as many whole stantly, add and mortar and the rnortar out of the smooth and rather stiff paste. Take itit out for aa time. time. in aa cool cool place for leave ta to stand stand in leave or hexagonal hexagonal round or into square, square, round paste. Cut Cut itit into Roll out out the paste. Roll the cut out out the inches in in diameter, diameter, cut pastry cutter pieces. With cutter 22 inches With aa pastry pieces. for the will serve the for 2,2, which which will serve for each piece, except for middle of of each middle of cake. and bottom bottom layer of top and top and when when they they pastry in in aa hot hot oyen oven and layers of of pastry Bake these these layers Bake puree or fruit purée or different fruit with aa different each one one with quite cold spread each cold spread are quite are jelly. Put an uncut uncut other, using using an ofthe on top top of layers one one on Put the the layers jelly. the other, jelly. or jelly. layers of jam or with alternate alternate layers the base, base, with form the layer ta to form layer up, built up, When the cake isis built other uncut uncut layer. Wh with the the other Cover with en the Cover jam, pipe (see ICING). ICING). pipe with Royal Royal icing icing (see coat with with apricot apricot jam, coat

Cromesqui (q.v.) made NALESNOO (Russian NALESNIKI @ussian cookery) -- Cromesqui fill a and butter, used to white cheese cheese and to fil! from a a mixture of white from pancake is then dipped in pancake made without sugar. The pancake butter and deep-fried.

NANDU. A kind kind of ostrich. The flesh of its young NANDou --A NAI\DU. NANDOU is tender and its eggs are edible. sometimes app€ars on French NANTAIS -- Nantes duckling sometimes Nantes duckling NAI\TAIS (see DUCKLING). menus simply as Nantais (see '''~'

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NANTAIS NANTAIS -- Small almond biscuit. on the the in aa circle on (18 oz., 4| cups) cups) sieved sieved flour in Put oz., 4t Put 500 500 g. (18 generous cup) oz., generous place 125 125 g. (+ OZ., table. middle place In the middle table. In li cup) scant li oz., seant mortar, 250 g. (9 OZ" in aa mortar, almonds pounded in (9 OZ., eggs and butter, 33 eggs g. (9 scant l+ cup) butter, oz., scant fine 250 g. fine sugar, sugar, 250 in this dough in (6 tablespoons, cup) kirsch. Work this 1I dl. scant i cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, scant!in aa cool cool place. Leave to to stand stand in the way. Leave usual way. the usual fluted pastrycircles with aa fluted Roll dough. Cut itit into circles Roll out out the dough. with egg, brush with sheet, brush on aa baking sheet, cutter, the biscuits on cutter, put the and bake in aa almonds, and with ddust ust with sugar th chopped almonds, mixed wi sugar mixed moderate oYen. oven. lCI g.g. Put 100 DE NANTES NANTES -- Put PAINs DE Nantes PETITs PAINS Nantes cookies. cookies. PETITS (4 OZ., g. (4 100 g. oz., with 100 (4 OZ., into aa bowl bowl with butter into cr,p) softened softened butter oz., !-* cup) powder baking powder pinch of teaspoon baking ofsalt, salt, j teaspoon castor sugar, sugar, aa pinch * cup) castor grated on the sugar. on to to the or orange grated lemon or rind of of 1I lemon and the rind Then, yvwhisking reached. Then, Mix """"""1< Mix until until aa creamy creamy consistency is reached. g. (4\ oz., 125 g. and 125 eggs, and vigorously, vigorously, incorporate 22 whole eggs, flour. scant l+ cup) cup) sieved fiour. scant li and sprinkled sprinkled buttered and tins, buttered Put into tartlet tartlet tins, mixture into Put the the mixture in aa moderate moderate Bake in almonds. Bake with well-dried almonds. with finely finely shredded, shredded, well-dried oyen. oven. apricot with apricot Brush the the top top with Tum wire tray. tray. Brush to aa wire Turn out out on on to (see jam, then rcdzg (see Fondant icing jam, maraschino-flavoured Fondant ice with with maraschino-flavoured then ice pink sugar. ICING) with pink sugar. and sprinkle ICING) and sprinkle with

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as one one regarded as Aude district, district, regarded in the Town in the Aude NARBONI\E -- Town NARBONNE in the Narbonne viticulture, for for itit isis in the Narbonne French viticulture, capitals of of French of the the capitals of made. wines are are made. table wines ordinary table many of of the the ordinary region that that many region

plant are are edible edible The bulbs of this this plant bulbs of nlncnsn -- The NARCISSUS. NARCISSE NARCISSUS. in They are are cooked cooked in regions. They food in in sorne some regions. are used for food and are used for and artichokes. way as as Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes. the same same way the

dishes, which which given to various dishes, to various Name given NANTUA (A LA) -- Name where or, where crayfish tails tails or, freshwater crayfish are are garnishd with freshwater pur6e. crayfish purée. appropriate, with crayfish appropriate, covered covered with

in Arctic Arctic seas. found in seas. ItIt A cetacean cetacean found NARvAL-- A NARWHAL. NARVAL NARWHAL. left canine canine in the form of of the the left the forro has aa unique defensive defensive weapon in has (9 ft.) This weapon, weapon, m. (9 ft.) inin length. length. This up to to 3m. can be be up tooth which can tooth changed hands hands fabulous unicom, unicorn, changed to the the fabulous to belong belong to believed to believed for itit was was believed to prices in Middle Ages, Ages, for believed to in the theMiddle very high high prices atatvery poisons. power of divining poisons. of divining have the the power have

should be be Table napkins napkins should DE TABLE rABLE -- Table NAPKINS. sERvIErrEs DE NAPKINS. SERVIETTES used they used that they fanciful shapes shapes that folded the fanciful and not not inin the folded simply, simply, and to given. to be be given. 621 621

NASTURTIUM NASTURTIUM Nowadays, the narwhal is chiefly used for the oil processed Nowadays, the narwbal is chiefly used for the oil pn)Cessed

from its fat. The flesh is eaten by the people of Greenland, from its fat. The flesh is eaten by the of '-'l'-''-'lUUII1U, probably when no other food is available.

probably when no other food is NASTURTIUM. clpucrNr - - Edible Edibleand anddecorative decorativeplant. plant. NASTURTIUM. CAPUCINE Its flowers and leaves leaves are similar to watercress in taite. It Its flowers and are similar to watercress in taste. It used, at one time, to be called Mexican cress and Jesuits' used, at one time, to be called Mexican cress and Jesuits' cress because it was brought into Europe by the Jesuits. cress because il was brought into the Jesuits. Nasturtium flowers are areused usedinin salads. Theleaves leaveswhen when Nasturtium ftowers young can also be used in salads, like cress. The buds and can also be used in salads, like cresso The buds and the seeds, seeds, when they are still tender, are pickled in vinegar when they are still tender, are pickled in vinegar like capers. like capers. NATURISM, NATURIST. NATURIST. NATURISME, NaruRrsME,NATURISTE NArunrsrr - _ AA NATURISM, doctrine which preaches the return to nature, with regard to which preaches doctrine the return to nature, with regard to clothing as as well as food. c10thing well as food. Naturism prescribes much more more rigorous rigorous diet diet than than Naturism prescribes aa much vegetarianism. According to the apostles who preach this vegetarianism. According to the apostles who regenerative doctrine, diet must be made up entirely of raw reÉ~enenitnfe doctrine, diet must be made up fruit and and vegetables, vegetables, with with sorne some relaxation relaxation which permits permits the seasoning seasoning of of these these natural natural foods foods and and the preparation of the preparation of the cereal porridges. cereal porridges. NAVARIN This name name isis used used pvr,rp<",]v expressly for for aa ragoût ragofrt of of NA VARIN -- This mutton made either either with with smaU small onions potatoes or onions and potatoes or with with rnutton made different vegetables vegetables such such as as carrots, carrots, turnips, small small onions, onions, different potatoes and new potatoes green peas. peas. In and green In this this case case the dish dish must must be be new described as d la printaniire (see MUTTON). described as à la printanière MUTTON). The term term navarin navarin is is sornetlmc~s sometimes wrongly applied to ragofrts to ragoûts The of shellfish poultry; itit should shellfish or or poultry; should only be used of of mutton mutton of dishes or, in exception or, in exceptional cases, lamb. lamb. dishes al cases,

NEAPOLITAN SUCES. SLICES. TRANCHES TRANcHEs NAPOLlTAI'N'E'; NApoLrrArNEs -- MassMassNEAPOLITAN produced Neapolitan Neapolitan ice ice creams creams sold in cafés sold in caf6s and and sorne some produced restaurants. They They are are made made of of alternate alternate layers layers of plain ice of plain ice restaurants. crearn and and mousse mousse mixture, mixture, cut cut into into slices slices from from aa larger larger crearn block. block.

putthem bain-marie (q.v.), slit and stone each cherry.Put themback bain-marie back onthe the napkin with the holes upward. Fill thecherries cherrieswith witha a on jam,without little Bar-le-Ducredcurrant redcurrantjam, pips(see (seeJAMS withoutpips little JAMS ANDJELUES, JELLIES,Bar-le-Duc jelty)-.AAforcing Bar-le-Duccurrant canantjelly). forcingbag AND bag maybe beused usedfor forthis thisoperation. operation. Flavour Flavourthe fondant icing, thefondant may icing, whichmust mustremain remain thick, thick,with witha a!ittle littleofofthe thebrandy brandyfrom whieh from thecherries. cherries.Heat Heatthe fondant. thefondant. the Usingaaskewer skewer and andtaking takingcare caretoto keepthe theholes holesininthe Using the cherries upward, upward,dip dipthem themininthe theicing. icing. Thethicker thickerititis,is,the cherries the moreliqueur liqueurand andthe thebetter betterthe thesweet. sweet. more Thedipping dippingmust mustbe quickly,for becarried carried out outquickly, forthe The thestoned stoned cherries, filled filld with withBar-le-Duc Bar-le-Ducjam, arevery verymoist, moist,and cherries, jam, are andthe the moisture will immediately mix willimmediately mixwith withthe theicing icingand andmelt moisture meltit.it. Assoon soonasasthe neluskosare theneluskos arecold, putthem cold,put As themininsilversilverpapercases, cases, as asthe thesyrup syrup always alwaysmanages manages totoooze oozethrough through ordinary paper. paper. NEMOURS (Tartlets) (Iartlets)-- Line Linetartlet tartlet tins tins with with Flaky pastry Flaky pastry NEMOURS (see DOUGH). dough (see jam(see DOUGH). Put Putaalittle littlemirabelle (seeMARmirabelle jarn dough MARMALADE, Plum Plummarmalade) marmalade)atat the the bottom bottom of MALADE, ofeach eachone. one. jam, prpesorne On top of of the the jam, (seeDOUGH). paste(see someChou Chou paste On DOUGH). Bake in aa hot hot oven. oven. Sprinkle with with icing icingsugar. Bake sugar.

NENUPHAR (lVater Illy) my) -- Aquatic plant with Aquatic plant NÉNUPHAR with aastarchy starchy root wruch which isis used as as food food inincertain parts of certain parts root of the the world. world.The The seeds, too, too, are are used, mostly inin Chinese used, mostly Chinese cookery. seeds, cookery. NEROLI -- AA volatile volatile oil oil extracted extracted from NÉROLI from orange orange blossom. blossom. This oil oil isis used used in in confectionery, confectionery, and This and in in the the manufacture manufacture of sorne some liqueurs. liqueurs. of mEnOLf (pâtisserie) Pound in NÉROLI in aa mortar mortar 125 125 g. (4$ OZ., oz., @frtisserie) - Pound cup) blanched blanched almonds almonds with with 33 eggs. 1I cup) (7 OZ., eggs. Add Add 2ffi g.e.(7 oz., scant cup) cup) fine fine sugar, sugar, the the candied candied peel peel of scant 3 oranges of3 oranges chopped chopped (3 tablespoons, fine, and and i+ dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, seant! fine, scant * cup) orange-blossom orange-bloijom water or or 1 teaspoon orange orange extract. extract. Work this water this mixture mixture thoroughly with the pestle. Put the mixture mixture in in aa bowl. Add g. (2t oz.,5 Add 60 60 g. o2.,5 tablespoons) tablespoons) melted butter and (l OZ., g. (1 and 30 30 g. oz., i* cup) (cornstarch). melted cup) comflour cornflour (comstarch). Mix weil. well. Mix

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I\ECTARIhIE Smooth-skinned variety variety of peach. It of peach. It isis NECTARINE -- Smooth-skinned eaten raw, raw, like like the and can can be peaches be cooked cooked like like peaches eaten the peach, peach, and (see PEACH). It is also called brugnon in French. (see PEACH). It is also called brugnon in French. _ NEEDLE. NEEDLE. AIGUILLE AIGUILLE Larding A nrquEn Small-size larding Larding needle. needle. ArcurLLE AIGUILLE À PIQUER - Small-size needle, the other, other, used needle, pointed at at one one end end and and pronged pronged at at the fo-r substances with thin strips for piercing and and larding various various substances with thin of bacon. It is with a larding needle fillet of beef, needle that that we we stud fillet calves' calves' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, small pieces pieces of of meat, meat, poultry poultry and winged winged game game and and different different cuts cuts of of venison venison with with pieces pieces of of bacon, bacon, pork pork or or ham harn fat. fat. Trussing AIGUILLE A À snrom, BRIDER -- Steel pin pin pointed pointed at Trussing needle. needle. ArcurLLE one one end end and and pierced pierced at at the the other. other. A A trussing trussing needle is used for poultry and and game. game. for trussing trussing poultry (Ship) NEF NEF (Ship) -- This This name narne was was given given in in Franoe France to to aa piece of of goldsmith's goldsmith's work work made made in in the the form fonn of of a a ship, whiih contained tained cutlery, cutlery, napery, napery, etc., etc., used used at at the the royal royal table, table, such as as the the salt salt cellar, cellar, the the great great caryers carvers and and the the table table napkins napkins in in scented scented sachets. sachets. All AH persons, persons, even even princesses, princesses, passing passing by by the the royal nef nef had had to to salute salute it. it. NEGU-S NÉGUS -- Wine Wine spiced spiced with with sugar, sugar, lemons lemons and and nutmeg. nutmeg.

Fill small small buttered buttered tins tins with with the Fill the mixture, mixture, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped almonds almonds and and bake in chopped in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven.

An iced iced sweet, NESSELRODE -- An sweet, usually known known as as NesselNesse/(see PUDDING). rode pudding (see rode NESTS. NIDS NtDs - Edible nests are made in various ways. They They are used used for the presentation of small tit-bits. Potato nests. These These are Potato nests. are Iike like little little baskets baskets made made with matchstick matchstick potatoes, which which are put in are put in small small wire wire baskets shaped like nests, nests, and in boiling fat. and deep-fried in fat. Fried Fried food food various kinds is served in these nests. of ofvarious nests. Or, after lining lining them with with pancakes, various various ragoûts may be ragofits (q.v.) may be served served in them. (See QUAIL, Quails Quails in a nest.) Swallonc' nests. rqns NIDS D'HIRoNDELrns D'HIRONDELLES - Nests Nests built built by salanganes. much sought sought after after by by Chinese Chinese salanganes. They are are much gourmets. The The salangane salangane builds its nest nest with its saliva. Just before the the mating mating season, the the bird's saliva saliva glands become become enlarged and secrete secrete a a thick, thick, viscous, glutinous liquid containing {'(w,t",ni",cr and 90 90 per per cent cent of of aa protein protein which which is insoluble in water. The The nests, nests, constructed constructed in layers, layers, placed placed one one on top top of of the the other, other, are are font-shaped font-shaped and and are are attached attached to to the the sides sides ofrocks of rocks in almost inaccessible inaccessible grottos grottos on on the the coast coast of of Annam, Annam, in in almost Java, Java, and and on on one one or or two two islands islands of of the the Malay Malay Archipelago. Archipelago. Collecting these these nests nests isis aa diffcult difficult and and dangerous dangerous occupaoccupaCollecting tion, and and only only the the high high price paid for for them them can ean explain explain ihe the tion, risks taken taken by by men men engaged in 'hunting the the nests'. nests'. risks Before being sold sold for for food, the nests undergo complicated complicated Before processing. processing. They are are washed washed several several times times in hot hot water, water, kneaded with with groundnut groundnut oil oil which which is is then then washed washed out out in in aa kneaded

NEIGE NEIGE DE DE FLORENCE FLORENCE -- Delicate Delicate pasta pasta product product used used in in clear clear soup. soup. This This pasta, pasta, which which the the guests guests themselves themselves put put into into their their plates plates of ofconsomm6, consommé, isis presented presented in in the the form form of of flakes, flakes, white white and and very very light. light. Hence Hence its its name, name, 'Florentine 'Florentine snow'. snow'. NELUSKO which are are made NELUSKO -- Iced Icedpetits fours which made as as follows: follows: Steep Drain them. thetn. put Put them them on on aa Steep cherries cherries in in brandy. Drain napkin napkin to to dry dry them them slightly. Make Make aa Fondant Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING) ICING) and and warm warm itil gently. gently. While itil isis being being warmed warmed in in aa 622 622

SAUCE NOISETTE NOISETTE SAUCE

(q.v). River and River trout trout and materials mate rials for for delicious delicious matelotes matelotes (q.v.). crayfish are plentiful. plentiful. good yield very very good also yield and orchards also The kitchen gardens gardens and are and onions onions are as carrots carrots and products. such as products. Pot Pot vegetables vegetables such quality fine quality of the the fine it isis because because of and it especially flavoursome, and given to to one one of of is given Nivernaise is name Nivernaise of its vegetables that the name culinary in the the classic classic culinary meat dishes dishes in for meat the the best best garnishes garnishes for (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). repertoire repertoire (see is that that called calld fromage region is known cheese of the region The best known in straw straw (dry cheese) cheese in white cheese made by by drying drying white cheese) made sec (dry sec pepper' with pepper. theno with and dusting dusting them well and them weil baskets, draining them pork fat; with pork soup with Cabbage soup specialities -- Cabbage Qnlingry specialities Culinary fat; style; soup, country counfty style; vegetable soup, mixed vegetable Nivernais hot-pot; hot-pot; mixed Nivernais cook' Clamecy, Save/oy; Saveloy; cookof Clamecy, andbaby chitterlings of chitterlings and chitter/ings baby chitter/ings (pork greaves); greaves); Morvan Morvan garlic); beursaudes (pork ing sausage (with gar/ic); mg griandes; thyme; griaudes; puddings with wild thyme; with wi/d black puddings smoked ham; ham; black smoked pike; river la river trout trout àd la of pike; matelotes of Loire fish; matelotes fricassde of fi.sh; fricassée Nivernaise in court-bouillon; court'bouillon; Nivernaise crayfish in meuniire ; freshwater meunière; freshwater crayfish and chives); chives); (a flat ham and with sorrel, filld with sorrel, ham flat omelette, omelette, filled omelette (a omelette grilled beef Ia beef àd la (made with carrots); gri//ed lot of of carrots); with aa lot beef daube daube (made beef in grilled beef); veal stewed stewed in (similar to beef); veal to charcoal charcoal grilled marinidre (similar marinière morvandelle tipe àd lala morvandelle Corbigny ; tripe grenadins of veal of of Corbigny; of vea/ red wine," wine ; grenadins red pig's liver with onions; with onions; Caen); pig's/iver (similar to mode de de Caen); la mode tripe àd la to tripe (similar (chicken in in galette; chicken m barboi/le barboille (chicken galette; griaude griaude galette; chicken en eel galette; eel chicken's blood); blood); with chicken's thickened witb wine, the the sauce sauce thickened red red wine, (in the district Nivernais district hare (in the Nivernais of hare civet of rabbit en en barboi//e; barboille; civet rabbit Amognes; des Amognes; saupiquet des civet); saupiquet to the the civet); added to are added turnips turnips are (baked inin aa (potatoes) en en tourtière tourtiire (baked potato pâté; pdti; treuffes treufes (potatoes) potato salad with (a kind with dandelion salad pie-dish); leek kind of of fiamiche); pie-dish); Ieek tart tart (a flamiche) ; dandelion pork fat). fat). (large pancakes in melted melted pork pancakes cooked cooked in grapiaux (large bacon; bacon; grapiaux pastries confectionery and confectionery sweets, pas Nivernais sweets, Among tries and Among tbe the Nivernais (a special flan); apple flan); kind of of apple pommes (a special kind aux pommes are: are: Flamusse Flamusse aux galettes aux aux (pear paste); paste) ; sour milk fritters; sour milk pâté pdtd aux poires (pear aux poires fritters; galettes Pr6mery; Neversand and Prémery; from Nevers griaudes; croquets griaudes; croquets (petits fours) from Qtetits fours) ndgus Morvan; négus from Morvan; barley-sugar from nougatines Nevers; barley-sugar nougatines from from Nevers; Decize. (a kind sweets from from Decize. marzipan sweets (a caramel); marzipan kind of of soft soft caramel); produces those those Wines region that that produces the region Wines -- Nivernais Nivernais isis the and Pouilly-Fumé. Pouilly-Fum6. es, Pouilly-sur-Loire excellent Pouilly-sur-Loire and wines, white win excellent white grapeused. used. ofgrape varietyof The by the the variety determined by The appellation appellation isis determined grape.TtItisis Chasselasgrape. from the theChasselas Pouilly-sur-Loire made from Pouilly-sur-Loire isis made young. Pouilly-Fumé Pouilly-Fum6 bedrunk drunk young. fresh should be versatile and and should and versatile fresh and grape. ItIt isisaadistinguished distinguished isis derived Sauvignon grape. from the theSauvignon derived from Connoisseurs wine, bouquet. Connoisseurs withaadelicate delicate bouquet. elegant with and elegant wine, dry dry and andseafood. seafood. choose shellfishand fish, shellfish with fish, drink with choose itit to to drink townof of around the thetown Both produced inin the regionaround theregion are produced Both wines wines are Loire. Pouilly, theLoire. right bank bank of of the the right on the Pouilly, situated situated on

SwaJlow's nest nest Swallow's

nests are carefully are then then very carefully further bath of hot water. The nests cleared of ail feathers with pincers. pincers. all down and feathers cleared by gourmets gourmets of Particularly enjoyed enjoyed by of China, China, swallows' the form nests are generally eaten form of soup. soup. After being eaten in the nests dipped in in hot hot water they are to carefully carefully clarified are added added to water they dipped in aa beef or or chicken broth, broth, and and cooked hour in an hour for half an cooked for bowl of soup double saucepan. For every 400 g. to 400 300 to soup of 300 every bowl (II1 to 14 14 oz.), nest weighing 88 to (l 15 g. G to tI oz.) is required to 15 oz.), aanest (see SOUPS nests). birds' nests). BROTHS, Consommé Consommd with birds' SOUPS AND BROTHS,

(±

ORTIE full leaves, full hairs on on Ieaves, with stinging hairs Weed with oRTIE -- Weed of formic acid, Some species species eruption. Sorne skin eruption. acid, which provokes skin of plant, such nettle, or or nettle and and blind nettle, as white while dead nettle this plant, such as of this La,:,iwn albUm, vegetable as aa vegetable sorrel, as used like sorrel, are edible edible and used Larniwn album, are or soups. in soups. or ID The purifier of as aa purifier of are used used as and roots are leaves, buds buds and The young leaves, the digestive malaria. combat malaria. and to to combat renal tracts, tracts, and and renal the digestive and

NETTLE. NETTLE.

NEUFCHÂTEL CHEESE. See CHEESE. hIEUFCHATEL -- See (see (À LA) Method NÉVA poulards (see (A preparing poulards of preparing NEVA tA) - Method of CHICKEN). cHrcKEN). NIÇOISE all dishes, a1l preparing various various dishes, Method of of preparing LA) -- Method NICOISE (À 6 LA) of are They are ingredients. They among their their ingredients. which have have tornatoes tomato€s arnong of which usually garlic. with garlic. flavoured with usually fiavoured NIGEL LA. NIGELLE plants of given to of number of of plants to aa nurnber Name given NIGELLA. NIGELLE -- Name the as aa spice. are used used as spice. whose seeds seeds are family, whose the Ranunculus Rarwnatlzs farnily, Sorne pungent seeds which can can seeds which and pungent have aromatic aromatic and varieties have Some varieties be as fennel also known known as pepper. Nigella Nigella isis also instead of of pepper. be used used instead fennel fiower devil-in-the-bush. or devi/-in-the-bush. flower or Cultivated ce in in Egypt. Egypt. as aa spi spice used as nigella isis used Cultivated nigella

NOEK.K.ELOST SCECHEESE. CHEESE. NOEKKELOST -_See

NIOLO CHEESE. NIOLO -- See See CHEESE. NITROGEN. pennascentless permatasteless, scentless ,lzorE -- Colourless, Colourless, tasteless, NITROGEN. AZOTE nent enters per cent atmosphere; itit enters gas fonning cent of of the the atmosphere; forming 78·1 78'1 per nent gas into as used as substances used many of of the the substances of many into the composition of the composition food. (See ALBUMINOIDS.) food. (See ALBUMINOIDS.) NIVERNAIS of repertoire of The culinary culinary repertoire NMRNAIS AND AND MORVAN MORVAN -- The this to the the corresponds to roughly corresponds which roughly province, which ancient province, this ancient Nièvre grand in the the grand no dishes dishesin has no of today, today, has Nitvre département ddpartemmr of manner, areaare are produced inin this thisarea foodstuffs produced manner, but but the the foodstuffs uality, excellent. highest qquality, produce meat meatof of the the highest livestock produce excellent. The The livestock cattle plains of Loire of the the Loire rich plains the rich nurtured inin the reared and and nurtured cattle reared (Charolais prized for for the the (Charolais cattle, areespecially especiallyprized locally bred) bred) are cattle, locally fine flavour, the thesheep sheep quality of offlavour, meat. For For delicacy delicacyof of their their meaL fine quality rival andBerry Berry districts. districts. Bourbonnais and in the the Bourbonnais rival those those reared reared in The and excellent, and provinoeare areequally equallyexcellent, pigs of of the Nivernais province The pigs the Nivernais very especially Morvanisisespecially good poultry poultry isisbred here.That That of of Morvan very good bredhere. delicate. game isis fairly ground game fairly and ground winged and Succulent winged delicate. Succulent abundant region. abundant inin this this region. In Morvan andMorvan Nivernais and ofthe theNivernais In the riversand and smalllakes small lakesof the rivers provinces providethe the Theseprovide provinces fish kinds abound. abound. These fish of of ailall kinds

BYGONE N01tL OFBYGONE RESTAURANTSOF SEC RESTAURANTS NOEL PETERS PETERS -_See DAYS. DAYS. garnish served with NIVERNAISE (ALA) servedwith Nameof ofaagarnish LA)- - Name NMRNAISE (À cuttoto intermediate carrotscut madeup upofofcarrots meat courses. courses. ItItisismade intermediate meat look glazedonions. onions. andsmall smallglazed look like like olives, olives,and particuNOISETTE portionofofmeat, meat"particuindividual portion NOISETTE-- Small Smallindividual larly lamb. muttonororlamb. legof ofmutton fillet,rib ribororleg cutfrorn from the thefillel, larlyaaslice slicecut AAnoisette, musthe roundininshape. shape. beround asits itsname namesuggests, suggests,must noisette, as Its oz.). 90g.g.(2(2toto33oz.). from7070toto90 befrom shouldbe Itsaverage average weight weightshould For LAMB,MUTION. MUTTON. preparation of noisettes,see seeLAMB, ofnoisettes, Forthe thepreparation More sliceofof smallslice describeaasmall usedtotodescribe loosely, the theterm term isisused Moreloosely, veal ofbeef. beef. filletof vealfillet filletor orfillet

NOISETIE BUTTER. SeeBUTTER. BUTTER.- -See NOISETTE BUTTER NOISETTE witha abail ball shapedwith Potatoes shaped POTATOES - - Potatoes NOISETTE POTATOES scoop (seePOTATOES), cookedinin hazelnuts(see POTATOES),cooked lookIike likehazelnuts scooptotolook butter andslightly browned. butterand slightlybrowned. NOISETIE SAUCE. SeeSAUCE. SAUCE - -See NOISETTE SAUCE

623

NOISETTINES NOISETTINES NOISETTINES -- Small Smallcakes cakesmade puttingtogether made by byputting together NOISETTINFS two oval layers of ofshort short pastrywith Frangipanecream withFrangipane ireon(see lsee CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with hazelnuts. hazelnuts. They can canalso also he bemade made of largeround round layers of large layers of ofshort short pastry filled with with hazelnut hazelnut cream. cream.

NONAT -- There There isissorne some doubt doubtasastoto whether whether this this tiny NONAT Mediterranean fish fish isisaa separate separate species or, or,....... according to Mediterranean ',VAUH.!'. quite widely view quite widely held, held, merely merely thefry fry of of the the goby. The aa view nonat isisaagreat great delicacy. delicacy. ItIt can can he be eaten eaten only onlyinin places close nonat grounds. to its its fishing fishing grounds. to The best best way wayof of preparing nonats nonats isisdeep-frying. deep-frying. They They can can The also he be used used as asan an hors-d'auvre, and garnish for and as asaagarnish for omelettes. omelettes. also NONNETTE (Iccd mn gingerbreaQ gingerbread Small round round gingerbread NONNETTE ......,h..~..,•.irI -- Small which isis made made 1!1\"U"Ul
NONPAREILLE -- Name given in Name given in France France to to small small capers capers NONPAREILLE pickled in in vinegar. vinegar. pickled The same same name name isis given to granulated sugar to coloured coloured granulated sugar used used The to decorate decorate sweets sweets and cakes. cakes. to There isis also also aa French French va variety of pear called called nonpareille. nonpareille. There ri et y of It isis large, large, ripens ripens in in the the autumn, autumn, and isis somewhat somewhat tart tart inin It flavour. flavour. NourLLE -- Pasta NOODLES. NOUILLE Pasta made made with with flour, flour, eggs eggs and and NOODLES. water. Noodles Noodles can be eaten eaten fresh can be fresh or or dried. dried. water. For the the food food value value of of noodles, noodles, see see ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA. PASTA. For

t

DRIED NOODLES NOODLES OR OR VERY VERY SMALL SMALL NOODLES. NOODLES. DRIED NourLLEs SÈCHES, sicnrs, NOUILLETTES NoUTLLETTES -- These These can can be be bought NOUILLES ready-made. They They are poached in are poached in salt salt water water as as descrlbt:d described ready-made. for freshly freshly made made noodles noodles and and macaroni. After After poaching they they for prepared like are prepared like the the latter. are Dried noodles noodles are are served served by by themse\ves themselves or are used or are used as as Dried garnish for for meat, meat, fish, fish, eggs, etc. etc. When When noodles noodles are are used garnish used as as garnish, they are prepared with butter they are butter or or stock. stock. garnish, Pasta should poached in should not not be poached in aa bouillon or or in in stock, stock, as as Pasta that toughens them them without without improving improving their their flavour. that toughens Three-quarters cook cook the the pasta in salted salted water, water, drain, Three-quarters pasta in drain, and simmer gently for aa few few minutes in tn aa bouillon. simmer gently for FRESH NoLrrLLEs FRAîcHES rndcuns FRESH NOODLES. NOODLES. NOUILLES

-

-

L'ALSAcIENNE- -Prepare Preparethe noodlesasasindicated thenoodles indicatedfor L'ALSACIENNE forFresh Fresh (see below). noodlesininbutter butter(see noodles Putthem theminina a piedish dish andsprinkle sprinkleon Put onthe thetop topa ahandful handfulofof noodleswhich which havebeen lightly browned beenlightly brownedininbutter. noodles butter. Boiledfresn freshnoodles. noodles. NOUILLES NourLLEsAU AUNATUREL NATT.JREL- - plunge Boiled 250 g.(9(9oz.) oz.)fresh freshnoodles noodlesinto inro2-t2flitres pints,Si5f pints) litres(41 250 1+{pints, boiling water,with with 1+ teaspoonssasalt perlilitre It per tre (1(lf i pints, generous quart). Boil Boil fast for88toto10l0minutes. minutes. Drain the generous noodles. Put themininaashallow shallow pan panand noodles. andeV::lp()rate evaporate excess moisture overlow lowheat. ServeininaaVVCII-IIL
Fresh noodles Fresh

can ready-made in stores. In In France, France, can be be bought bought ready-made in food food stores. especially housewives make them at home. especially in in Alsace, housewives

Ingredients.500 sifted flour, 3 whole Ingredients. 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 4! 41 cups) sifted eggs and 6 yolks, yolks, 2 teaspoons teaspoons salt and about 3 tab,lespoc:ms tablespoons

pasta is more delicate if only yolks onlyyolks *i cup) water. The pasta of of eggs eggs are used. This depends de pends on what what the noodles noodles are to be used used for; for; in in some sorne cases they are made with whole eggs. Method. Arrange it in a circle on the table. Method. Sieve Sieve the flour. Arrange Put Put the the salt in in the the middle, dissolving dissolving it in water. Add the eggs eggs and the the yolks. yolks. Mix Mix the the flour a little Httle at a time with the eggs. eggs. Knead Knead thoroughly thoroughly to to make make sure that the flour is well weil mixed mixed and and to ta ensure ensure a smooth smooth mixture. mixture. The The pasa pasta must must be he very very firm. firm. Wrap Wrap in a a thin cloth c10th to prevent prevent it it from from drying, drying, and and leave leave to to stand for at least an hour, hour, until until it it loses loses its its elasticity. elastieity. When When a large quantity of noodles noodles is is required, make make them them several several hours hours beforehand. bet·on:hand. ItIt isis then then easier to to cut eut them them into into strips. strips. Divide dough into into pieces pieces about about the the size of of an egg egg and and Divide the the dough roll into balls. balls. Roll Roll out out each each piece piece into into the the shape shape of of a large large roll into tlin thin pancake. pancake. Spread Spread the the rolled-out rolled-out dough on baking sheets sheets covered covered with with sheets sheets of of paper. Leave Leave to to dry for 50 minutes. Lightly dust dust the the pancakes with with flour. flour. Roll Roll them and and cut cut into into wlor6 22 mm. Spread them them out out on on aa baking baking sheet. sheet. mm. (# inch) inch) wide. wide. Spread These are very very fine fine noodles. noodles. IfIfthe the noodles noodles are are required required for for These are garnishing he cut cut about about *-t cm. cm. (nl (t inch) inch) wide. wide. garnishing they they should should be Fresh l'alsacienne. NourLLEs NOUILLES mrtlcHls FRAîcHES AÀ Fresh noodles noodles li I'alsacienne. (scant

MACARONI).

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NOUILLES FRAîCHES Fresh noodles à la Fresh la napolitaine. NorrrLLBs nnelcnrs À A LA NAPOLITAINE - Cook the noodles, drain, NApoLrrArNE the noodles, drain, and and finish finish the dish the dish as described described in the recipe for Macaroni Macaroni àd la as (see h napolitaine napolitaine (see

MACARONI). MACARONT).

NOQUES (Alsatian (AIsatian cookery) cookery) -- Work Work to to aa paste, pas te, in NOQUES in aa warmed warmed bowl, 250 250 g. (9 oz., scant seant l* li cups) cups) butter butter seasoned seasoned with with salt, bowl, salt, touch of of grated nutmeg, adding adding 2 2 whole whole eggs pepper and a touch 150 g. (5 oz.,l| oz" li cups) cups) sieved flour flour and and 2 yolks, 150 and aa stiffiy beaten egg egg white. white. Divide Divide this this mixture mixture into into parts, parts, each each about beaten about the size size of of aa hazelnut. hazelnut. Poach Poach in in boiling boiling salt salt water. water. Drain. Drain. To the To serve, sprinkle sprinkle with with grated Parmesan, Parmesan, and and browned browned butter. butter. serve,

are also also served served in in soup. soup. Noques are Noques Noques li hla viennoise viennoise (Austrirn (Ausman syeet) sweet) - These noques arc are Noques - These noques

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Normandy of Normandy map of Gastronomic map Gastronomie

preparation used used of preparation (A LA) Method of LA) -- Method NORMANDE (À NORMANDE sole. especially sole. wine, especially in white white wine, braised in fish braised for fish mainly for mainly with are coated coated with which are fish, which garnish for for thesç these fish, The usual usual gamish The poached oysters, (sw SAUCE), comprises poached SAUCE),comprises sauce(sec Normanfu sauce Normande fried gudgeon oftruffle, trufre, fried stripsof mushrooms, strips shrimps, mushrooms, shelled shrimps, shelled (q.v.),and and court'bouillon(q.v.), (or smelt), freshwater crayfish inincourt-bouillon freshwater crayfish (or and Poached and butter. Poached friedininbutter. pieces of ofbread lozenge-shaped pieces 102:en!!e-sn.:iD(X1 bread fried (seeSOLE, garnish(sec SOLE, thisgamish addedtato this areoften often added mussels are shelled mussels normande\. Soleàdlalanormande). Sole be prepred àdlala canbe chickencan and chicken meatand ofmeat cuts of Small cuts Small poured have cider poured theyhave arecooked cookedthey Afterthey theyare normande.After normande. Calvados. littleCalvados. withaaIittle enriched with Thesauce sauce isisenriched over them. them.The over partridge,can can game,especially especiallypartridge, wingedgame, ofwinged speciesof Somespecies Sorne (seePARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). normande (see prepared àdlalanormande beprepared be preparationscacalled numberofofpreparations alsoaa largenumber Thereare arealso There lied àrila/a normande inin pastry-making. normande

(see eggs (see aa kind (q.v.), similar Snow eggs to Snow quenelle (q.v.), similar to kind of of small small quenelle by lighter by EGGS), made Iighter be made can be They can delicate. They less delicate. but less EGGS), but vanillawith vanillabeating are served served with noques are These noques whites. These the egg egg whites. beating the fiavoured custard. flavoured custard. g. 100 g. Ingredients. (4 oz.) butter, 100 generous î* cup) cup) butter, g. (41 oz., generous 125 g. Ingredients. 125 ( ! 9 eggs, flour,9 (a oz., 1I cup) sieved flour, g. (4 cup) sieved 100 g, (44 sugar, 100 oz.,* "up) 5 dl. (scant pint,2l cups) 1I pod vaniila, dl. (6(6 tablemilk, 1I dl. cups) milk, salt' pinch of of table table salt. cream, aa pinch cup) double cream, scant * cup) spbotts, seant! until itit isis with aa spatulauntil and work work with bowl and in aa bowl butter in Put the butter smooth tablespoons pinch of of salt,22 tablespoons Work inin aa pinch and creamy, creamy. Work smooth and one' egg added one (3 by one, one by yolks of ofegg and 55yolks (3 tablespoons) sugar, and tablespoons) sugar, Add cream. double cream, half the Add half the double the Beat When the together. When vigorously together. ingredients vigorously all the Beat ail the ingredients placeof mixture of an egg-whisk egg-whiskininplace with an whisk with fluffy, whisk very fiuffy, mixture isis very the mix. andmix. flour, and thefiour, sprinkle inin the whisking, sprinkle While whisking, the spatula. spatula. While Beat in, in.Mix Mix in, and blend blend itit in. foamand stiff foam to aastiff white of of egg to Beat aa white whites. one, 33 unbeaten egg whites. one by one, same milk ininthe thesame sweetened milk The noques are poachedininsweetened EGGS). eggs (seeEGGS), asSnow Snoweggs way as boil. theboil. liquid totothe theliquid bringingthe without bringing noques without Poach the tbenoques (If noquestoto thenoques causesthe (If the boil,this thiscauses allowed toto boil, milk isisallowed the milk swell over poaching,tum turnthem themover are poaching, theyare Whilethey unduly.) While swell unduly.) gently drainthem. them. areready, ready,drain Whenthey theyare gently with withaaskimmer. skimmer. When To noques,use use goeswith withthe thenoques, whichgoes custardwhich makethe thecustard To make the adding the the havebeen been poached, adding theyhave milk ininwhich whichthey themilk double cream yolksand andthe thecream yolks.Beat Beat theyolks eggyolks. and44egg cream and doublecream with mixedblend blendinin wellmixed areweil whenthey theyare andwhen anegg-whisk, egg-whisk,and withan the by heating custardby Thicken this thiscustard milk.Thicken boilingsweetened sweetenedmilk. theboiling ititon notletletitit boil. donot butdo fewseconds, seconds,but foraafew onthe thestove stovefor Strain noques. thenoques, ontotothe sieveon finesieve througha afine Strainititthrough This cold' hotororcold, beserved servedhot canbe Thissweet sweetcan

the gastronomic repute;the higbgastronomic Provinceofofhigh NORMAI\IDY - -Province NORMANDY the best inailallthe thebest oneofofthe regardedasasone tableisisregarded Normandy table Normandy France. provincesof ofFrance. provinces which cream,which andcream, butterand excellentbutter Normandy producesexcellent region. theregion. dishesofofthe characteristicdishes are areused usedinin allch;lralct(!ri~)tic provide pasturesprovide richpastures nurturedon onitsitsrich andsheep sheepnurtured Thecattle cattleand The particularly areparticularly sheepare salt-meadow sheep meat.ItsItssalt-meadow high-gra{e meat. high-gracle good. good. Normandy industry.Normandy importantindustry. veryimportant productionisisa avery Fruitproduction Fruit greatreputation. reputation. havea agreat apples have apples brill, sole,brill, provideananabundance abundanoeofofsole, watersprovide itscoastal coastalwaters Its TheSeine Seine fish'The delicatefish. manyother otherdelicate andmany mackereland turbot, turbot,mackerel Arques andthe theArques Breslesand andtrout troutofofBresles salmonand shad andthe thesalmon shadand fish. delicate5sh. are verydelicate arevery

625

NORVEGIEN There is no lack

of shellfish. There are the white oysters of There is no lack of shellfish. There are the white oysters of Dives, Luc-sur-mer and Courseulles, the mussels from the Dives, Luc-sur-mer and Courseulles, the mussels from the natural mussel-beds, which are as fat as one could wish: natural mussel-beds, which are as fat as one could wish; clams; fldons (donax) cockles. Giant mussels, called caieu, clams; fléons (donax) cockles. Giant mussels, called caieu, are found at Isigny, and there are the ormiers (or haliotis) of are found at Isigny, and there are the ormiers (or haliotis) of the Cap de Hague, the winkles or periwinkles and also the Cap de lala Hague, the winkles or periwinkles and also the prawns (bouquet) of Cherbourg, and the dmroiselles the prawns (bouquet) of Cherbourg, and the demoiselles (small lobsters) of Caen, Cherbourg and Dieppe. (small lobsters) of Caen, Cherbourg and Dieppe. The milk and cream of Normandy have a well-deserved of Normandy have a well-deserved The milk and cream reputation. The most famous butter is that of Isigny. This reputation. The most famous butter is that of Isigny. This butter is the basis of excellent cheeses: Camembert, Livarot, butter is the basis of excellent cheeses: Camembert, Livarot, Pont-l'Ev6que. Pont-l'Évèque. The winged and ground game shot in Normandy is highly The winged and ground game shot in Normandy is highly prized. prized. This region has no vineyards. Wine, moreover, is not This region has no vineyards. Wine, moreover, is not much drunk by its people. They have, however, excellent much drunk by its people. They have, however, excellent cider and perry to drink with the special dishes of their cider and perry to drink with the special dishes of their province. The cider of the Auge Valley has the highest province. The cider of the Auge Valley has the highest reputation. The pears of Cl6cy, Alemon, Argentan, Ecouche reputa tion. The pears of Clécy, Alemon, Argentan, Écouche and Domfront are higbly prized. And thire is the cider there is the cider and Domfront are highly prized. And spirit called Calvados, and the celebrated celebrated Benedictine Benedictine spirit caUed Calvados, and the liqueur made at F6camp. liqueur made at Fécamp. Cutfuary speclalities A distinctive feature of a large Culinary specia1ities -- A distinctive feature of a large number of the dishes of Normandy is that they are cooked in N ormandy is that they are cooked in number of the dishes of cream. Many dishes are cooked with a special fat called cream. dishes are cooked with a special fat caUed graisse Many normande, which is made by melting together and graisse normande, which is made by melting together and clarifying equal quantities of pork fat and suet, flavoured clarifying equal quantities of pork fat and suet, flavoured with pot vegetables and herbs and seasoned with salt and with pot vegetables and herbs and seasoned with salt and pepper. This fat gives special flavour to food cooked in it. pepper. This fat gives aa special flavour to food cooked in it. Among the culinary specialities of the region arc: soup Among the culinary specialities of the region are: soup rnrmande; the famous Madame poulard om;lette; omeletie normande; the famous Madame Poulard omelette; omelette aux coques; Matelote normande, made with salrwater fish: aux coques; Matelote normande, made with saltwater fish; the true sole d la normande, which is a way of stewing soles is a way of stewing soles the true sole à la normande, which in cream, and has nothing in common with the the sole sole àd la la common with in cream, and has nothing in normande served in Paris restaurants; sole d h dieppoise normande served in Paris restaurants; sole à la dieppoise (and other sea fish prepared same way); mussils d in the the same way); mussels à la la (and other sea fish prepared in mariniire; seine shad stuffed and baked; tripe d Ia mode de marinière; seine shad stuffed and baked; tripe à la mode de Caen and tripe d la mode de la Ferti-Mac|; sheep's trotters d Caen and tripe à la mode de la Ferté-Macé; sheep's trotters à Ia rouennaise; casserole of veal in creatn; whii pudding of la rouennaise; casserole of veal in cream; white pudding of I'Avranchin; fuckling d la roumnal'se, which is preparea in l'Avranchin; duckling à la rouennaise, which is prepared in d_ifferent ways in Rouen and Duclair; wood pirtridges different ways in Rouen and Duclair; wood partridges and the famous flambis; à Ia la time crème (chicken-in (chicken in flambés; and the famous Poulet Poulet d cream) called vallie d'Auge. cream) called vallée d'Auge. Among the vegetables are French beans in creon and Among the vegetables are French beans in cream and salsify d la normande. à la normande. salsify pork The products of Rouen, The pork products of Rouen, Vire Vire and and other other places, places, such such

Large farm in Normandy Large farm in Normandy

626 626

th€chitterlings chitterlings of ofVire Vire and andthe thebaby babychitterlings chitterlings of ofCaen, Caen, asI the blackand andwhite puddings, sausages, white puddings, sausages, etc., etc.,are areexcellent. excillent. black Thecheeses cheesesof ofthis thisregion reglo-n have haveaahigh high reputation. reputation. The The The bestknown known are: are: Pont-l'Évêque, Pont-l'Ev6que, Camembert, Camembert, Livarot, Livarot, best NeufchAtel, Bondon, Bondon, Gournay, Gournay, and and the famous small the famous small Neufcbâtel, double-cream cheeses cheeses among among which which isis the the celebrated celebrated double-cream Gervais Petit-suisse. Petit-suisse. Gervais Among the the sweets sweets and and confectionery confectionery of of Normandy Normandy are are Among terrinde which which isisalso also called called tord-goule; tord-goule;Normandy Normandy bourdelots 6 ourdelots terrinée (apple turnovers), made made by by cooking cooking whole whole apples apples inin aa (apple turnovers), coating of pastry; douillons, of pastry; douillons, made made in in the the same same way way with with coating pears; galette galette normande; normande; fouace (hearth cake) cake) from from Caen, Caen, pears; fouace(hearth pontroulettes from from Rouen, Rouen, mirlitons mirlitons from from Rouen Rouen and and Pontroulettes Audemer, delicious delicious Normandy Normandy shortbread; shortbread; duchesses duchesses de de Audemer, Normandie; nore/les; norelles; boulots; boulots; rivets rivets and and chemineaux, chemineaux. and and Normandie; famous sucres the famous pomme. sucres de de pomme. the

pound in NORVEGIEN (pâtisserie) (Pfftisserie) -- Pound in aa mortar mortar 250 g. 250 g. NORVÉGIEN oz,, seant scant 22 cups) cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon (9 \9 oz., blanched apricot apricot kemels, kernels, with with 44 whole whole eggs. eggs. When When the the blanched pounded to almonds are are pounded to aa smooth smooth paste, paste, add (10 oz., g. (10 add 275 275 g. oz., almonds l| cups) cups) fine fine sugar. sugar. li Blend this this mixture mixture thoroughly thoroughly in in aa bowl bowl and and add add 200 2N g.e. Blend (7 oz., oz., seant cup) softened scant cup) softened butter. butter. Work Work with aa spatula spatula until (7 the mixture mixture isis frothy. frothy. Still Still stirring, (l oz., stirring add add 25 g. (l 25 g. oz., i* cup) the (cornstarch) and cornflour (cornstarch) and 1I small glass of kirsch. small glass comflour Put the the mixture mixture into into buttered buttered moulds moulds lined with buttered Put paper. Bake Bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. paper. NORVEGIENhIE (À tA)-- Name Name given given to various preparaNORVÉGIENNE 6 LA) tions in in cookery cookery and and confectionery. It is more precisely preciselaused tions used for ice ice cream crezlm inside inside aa piping piping hot casing. This sweet is called for Omelette à d la la norvégienne norvdgienne (see (see EGGS, Norwegiut Norwegian omelette\. omelette). Omelette The sa same name is The me name is also also applied applied to to certain certain methods methods of presenting shellfish, such as salmon, lobster presenting cold cold fistr fish or or shellfish, lobs ter and spiny spiny lobster. lobster. NOUGAT NOUGAT -- Sweet Sweet made made with with roasted roasted almonds or walnuts. walnuts, and and honey honey or or syrup. syru p. The The word word derives derives from from the Latitn Latin nux, nut (walnut) (walnut) for it it would would appear appear that that originally originally this this sweet was made made mainly with is generally generally made made with with almonds almonds with walnuts; walnuts; nowadays nowadays itit is and and sugar, sugar, honey honey being being substituted substituted occasionally occasionally for for the the latter. latter. Industrially, Industrially, itit is is made made with with hazelnuts hazelnuts or or pistachios. pistachios. There of nougat: nougat: hard hard or or soft, soft, There are are aa great great many many kinds kinds of white usually made made industrially; industrially; white or or coloured. coloured. White White nougat nougat isis usually Mont6limar Montélimar nougat nougat enjoys enjoys aa great great reputation. reputation. In ln the the South South of ofFrance, France, the the oil-cake oil-cake made made from from the the residue residue of called nougat. nougat. of walnut walnut oil oil isis called Almod Almood. nougat nougat NoucAT NOUGAT Ar.rx AUX AMANDES AMANDES -- See See ALMOND. ALMOND. White White nougat nougat. NoucAr NOUGAT BLANc BLANC -- Cook Cook together together to to the the small SUGAR) 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,* oz., ~ cup) cup) honey honey small crack crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR) and an an equal equal quantity quantity of of sugar. sugar. Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon orangeorange1nd blossom blossom water, water, and and aa stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten egg egg white. white. Melt Melt over over aa gentle gentle flame, flame, stirring, stirring, and and bring bring the the sugar sugar to to the the ball baIl degree. degree. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4| 4t cups) cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds which which have have been been blanched, blanched, dried, dried, chopped chopped and and heated. heated. Put of Put this this mixture mixture in in aa flat flat baking baking tin tin lined lined with witb sheets sheets of rice rice paper. paper. Cover Cover with witb sheets sheets of of the the same same paper. paper. Place Place on on top l-kg. (2-lb.) top of of the the nougat nougat aa wooden wooden board board with with aal-kg. (2-lb.) weight weight on on it. it. Leave Leave until until lukewarm. lukewarm. Cut Cut into into squares squares or or other othershapes. shapes. Nougat Nougatwith with filberts, filberts, hazelnuts, hazelnuts, pine pine kernels kernels or orpistachio pistachio nuts nuts can canbe bemade madeinin the thesame sameway. way. NOUGATINE NOUGATINE CAKES CAKES -- Put Put into into aa deep, deep, square, square, wellweIlbuttered buttered baking baking tin, tin, about about \7t cm. cm. (3 (3 inches) inches) in in depth, depth, Genoese GENOESE) flavourod flavoured with with Genoese cake cake mixture mixture (see (see GENOESE) vanilla. vanilla.Bake, Bake,and andleave leavetotocool. cool. Cut Cutthe thecake cakeinto intosquares squaresand andslice sliceeach eachacross acrossinto into33oror

NUTMEG NUTMEG 44 layers. layers. Spread Spread Praliru Praline crearn cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) on on each each layer. layer. Buildthem Build them up up by by putting putting the the layers layers one one on on top top of ofthe the ICING). other, and and ice ice with with Chocolate Chocolatefondant fondant ic@ icing Gw (see ICING). othern small square These cakes cakes can can be he made made separately separately in insmall square These pieces pieces instead instead out out of of one one large large cake. cake.

NULLES -- Amber Amber and and musk-flavoured musk-ftavoured dessert dessert creams creams that that NULLES

used to to be be very very popular popular in in France. France. used

'Whip together together 44 or or 55 egg egg yolks, yolks, aa quantity quantity of of very very fresh fresh 'Whip lots of of sugar sugar and and aa pinch pinch of of salt. salt. crea m, lots cream, 'Cook in in aa shallow shallow casserole. casserole. Brown Brown quickly quickly under under aa 'Cook hot grill, grill, sprinkle sprinkle with with perfumed perfumed water water and and musk-flavoured musk-ftavoured hot sugar, and and serve.' serve.' (Lavarenne.) (Lavarenne.) sugar, NUT. NoD( NOIX -- Name Name for for aa number number of of different different types types of of fruit fruit NUT. outer casing casing and and a soft soft inner inner skin skin enclosing enclosing an an with aa woody woody outer with edible kernel. kernel. edible NUT-GALL. NoIx NOIX DE DE cALLE GALLE - Eastern Eastern peoples peoples eat eat fleshy fieshy NUT-GALL. It is about about the the size of of a lady apple, and grows on aa nut-gall. It nut-gall. species of of sage bush. bush. species species of ln some sorne places places a nut-gall which grows grows on a a species of In ground-ivy is eaten.

Nutmeg NUlmeg

It lime' It of lime. milk of of milk coating of whitish coating colour, usually colour, usually with with aa whitish acid oil, acid volatile oil, (nutmeg butter), butter), volatile fat (nutmeg cent fat 25 pa contains 25 per cent palate, to the the palate, stimulating to spice, stimulating an aromatic aromatic spice, Il isis an starch. It and starch. and in cooking. good deal a and is used and is used a good deal in cooking.

NUTMEG. MUscADE MUSCADE -- Seed of of the nutmeg tree, which grows grows NUTMEG. appearance to to the pear pear in warm countries and is similar in appearance tree.

in greyish brown brown in oval in shape, rounded, greyish The nutmeg is oval

627 627

OATMEAL. GRUAU cRUAU D'AVOINE D'lvorNE-Oats with the the husk removed, husk removed, OATMEAL. - Oats with grain separated the grain separated from from the the chaff chaff and ground. Oatmeal and ground. Oatmeal isii the used in broths and porridge. used in broths and porridge. porridge - See PORRIDGE. Oatmeal porridge Oatmcal - See PORRIDGE. porAcE pour 44 Oehed soulr. POTAGE AU GRUAU GRUAU D'AVOINE D'AvouirE -- Pour Oatmeal soup. AU tablespoons (* cup) oatmeal into I litre (lf pints, generous cup) oatmeal into 1 litre (lt generous quart) stock. Mix well and simmer gently for 30 minutes. stock. weil and simmer 30 minutes. Add 50 E (2 OZ., oz., i* cup) cup) fresh fresh butter butter and blend weil. well. This This soup can also be made with milk or water. soup can he made with milk or water. porAGE cntur D'AvorM Cream of of oatmeal oatmeal soup. soup. POT Boil Cream AGE CRÈME D'AVOINE -- Boil the oatmeal as described in the recipe recipe for for Oatmea! Oatmeal soup. soup. the oatmeal as described in the Strain through through aa coarse coarse muslin muslin c10th cloth and and bind bind with with egg egg Strain yolks, cream and fresh butter. yolks, cream and fresh butter. porAGE A r'AvorNE AU NATUREL Oefueal soup soup au naturel POTAGE au naturel. Oatmeal À L'AVOINE AU NATUREL Soak crushed grains oat warm water. water. Add -- Soak Add salt, salt, and and crushed oat grains in in warm cook in in plenty of water, water, simmering very gently, for for 44 hours. hours. cook plenty of tablespoons Strain through through aa muslin muslin bag bind with aa few few tablespoons -Strain of cream butter. of cream or Or milk milk and and aa little !ittle fresh butter.

OBLADE -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish, fish, similar (q.v.). to bream similar to OBLADE bream (q.v.). cooked àd la Ia meunière, meuniire, fried fried or or boiled. boiled. ItIt isis cooked OCA, OKA-PLANT OKA-PLANT -- This This plant (Oxalis (Oxalis tuberosa) was OCA, was introduced from from South South America into into England England in in 1829. ItIt isis introduced extensively cultivated cultivated in in Pern Peru and and Bolivia Bolivia and and grows grows very extensively very well in in England England and and Wales. Wales. It It also also grows grows wild wild in weil the forests inlhe foresti of France. France. 11 It has has edible edible tubers tubers which which are arc washed, washed, parboiled parboiled of in salted salted boiling boiling water water and and then prepared in then prepared in different different ways: in ways: (lightly fried); an beurre beurre (lightly fried); àd la la crème, crime, in in stock, stock, etc. etc. au por;LpE - Marine OCTOPUS. POULPE cephalopod mollusc, OCTOPUS. mollusc, known known - Marine cephalopod in Brittany Brittany under the the names of pieuvre pieuvre and in and minard; minard; toughfleshed, edible after prolonged beating. beating. fleshed, powps ÀA LA pnovnNgAr.E provengale. POULPE Octoprs àI la provençale. Octopm L,c, PR(WENC<\J.F - Clean an octopus and and leave it it for as as long as possible in running an and beat it it hard with big sticks so as to soften water. Drain, and the flesh, which is always rather leathery. Discard eyes and mouth. the eyes mouth. Cut Discard the Cut up up the the tentacles tentacles and middle size. Blanch, middle into into chunks of of equal size. Blanch, drain and and wipe them, and cook oil with with sorne them, and cook lightly lightly in in oil some chopped onion. Simmer Simmer for for a few moments. Pour in {t bottle bottle dry white wine and an equal quantity quantity of water. Add aa bouquet garni (q.v.) and and a a crushed crushed clove of garlic. Cook Cook until until the pieces pieces are quite tender, with the saucepan covered. covered. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped parsley. Octoprr Octopus with l'Vith rice" rice. pout,pE POULPE AU AU Rrz RIZ -- prepare the chunks of octopus octopus as as in in the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe. When two-thirds two-thirds cooked, put put in in the the casserole casserole 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 ,o2., OZ., l| li cups) cups) rice. Season Season with aa pinch pinch of of saffron. saffron. Continue cooking cooking for another another 20 to 25 minutes. minutes. Octopus Octopus may may also also be be cut cut in in pieces, pieces, deepfriod deep-fried in oil, oil, and and served served with with spinach. spinach.

OATS. grain of excels all all others OA 1'8. AvorNE AVOINE -- Cereal, CereaJ, the the grain of which which excels others as fodder for horses, cattle and poultry. as fodder for horses, caule and poultry. ItIt is also is also used used as as food food for for man man in in the the form form of of fine fine flour Hour (oatmeal), slightly coarser groats, and also flattened into and also flattened into (oa tmeal), slightly coarser what what is is known known as as rolled rolled or or flaked oats. oats. It It is is used used for for porridge porridge and and for for soup6. Oats are rich in phosphorus, iron iron and and vitamins. vitamins. They They are are aa safe, safe, recommendable food for for children children (especially as as aa

breakfast breakfast dish), dish), convalescents convalescents and and anaemics. anaemics. Oats contain contain

aa valuable valuable growth-promoting growth-promoting hormone hormone called called auxin. auxin. Roast Roast oat oat grains grains have have aa smell smell which which strongly strongly resembles resembles

that that of of vanilla. vanilla. Because Because of of its its low low gluten gluten content, content, oatmeal oatmeal flour flour does does not not produce malleable malleable paste when when mixed mixed with with water; water; it it is, is,

therefore, not a bread crop. the~relt'or'e, not a

OFFAL or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS MEATS (U.S.AJ. ABArs DE OFFAL (c.B) or BoucHERrE- Terms which which define define various various parts parts of the carcase. carcase. The The offal offal or or variety variety meats meats for for beef, beef, mutton mutton and and lamb, lamb, pork pork and and veal veal are are as as follows: follows: Beef. nosuF BOEUF - White. White. Feet Feel and and stomachs stomachs (generally (generally used used

i u

Sweetened Sweetened cream cream of of oets oats gruel. notmn BOUILLIE À LA cniur CRÈME D'AvorNE D'AVOINE sucRfn. sucRÉE - This This dish is recommended recommended mostly mostly for for

-

children, children, elderly elderly people and and invalids. invalids. To To ensure ensure that that the the gruel gruel is is smooth, smooth, the oatmeal oatmeal should should be he diluted, diluted, little !ittle by by little, with then poured poured into into sweetenod sweetened boiling boilîng little, with cold cold liquid, liquid, then liquid liquid (usually (usually milk). milk). Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring with with ;a

Beer.

-

in in the the preparation preparation of of tripe), tripe), tripe tripe and and brain. brain. Red. Red. Lights, Lights, heart, heart, liver, liver, tongue tongue and and kidneys. kidneys. Muttm MuHon and aoo Lamb. Lamb. MouroN, MOUTON, AGNEAU AGNEAU -- Kidneys, Kidneys, tongue, tongue, brain, brain, feet, feet, animelles, animelles, stomachs stomachs and and the the 'pluck', 'pluck', that that is, is, the the heart, heart, liver liver and and lungs. Pork Pork.. ponc PORC -- Kidneys, liver, liver, brain, brain, trotters trotters and and head. head. All Ail the pig's entrails are used in pork butchery. butchery. The The intestines intestines in pork are are used used as as containers containers in in the the manufacture manufacture of of sausages, "aUI"a~5\O", saveloys, saveloys, dried dried sausages sa usages and and black black (blood) (blood) puddings. puddings. pig's blood blood isis used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of ofblack black puddings. puddings.

wooden wood en spoon. spoon.

OBA OBA-- Species of ofmango mango from from Gabon Gabon (Africa) of which the fruit fruit isis called ibas; ibas; itit contains contains aa white white oily oUy almond which which can can be he used used in in its its natural natural state state to to prepare preparepain pain de de dika. dika. lt11 tastes tasteslike like cocoa. cocoa. The The mango mango from from Gabon Gabon was was introducod introduced into into Europe Europe inin 1855.

1855. 628 628

OFFAL OFFAL

i

ps soeuF ÀA Beef Beef or or ox ox palate Si la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. PALAIs PALAIS DE BOEUF

liver, mesentery, Veal. VeaJ. vsA,u VEAU-- Lights, Lights, heart, heart,liver, mesentery, spinal spinal marrow marrow (amourette), (amourette), head, head, sweetbread, sweetbread, trotters trotters and and kidneys. kidneys.

-

rl

LA

cut above; eut described above; as described LyoNNAIsE LYONNAISE - Cook an an ox palate as (see below). below). into into thick thick slices slices like like Tripe d la lyonnaise (see BoEUF À A LA LA DE BOEUF Beef B~f or or ox ox palate palate Si la poulette. PALAB PALAIS DE into and cut cut into above, and described above, as described FouLETTE POULETTE -- Cook Cook the the palate palate as mushrooms. sliced mushrooms. cooked, sliced with cooked, thick thick slices. slices. Simmer Simmer with various soups' making various for making Ox tdl tait. QUEttE DE DE BoEuFBOEUF - Used Used for (see SOUPS BROTHS). It AND BROTHS). SOUPS AND particularly Oxtail sonp (see n
I

BEEF or or OX OX OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS. MEATS. ABArs ABATS DE DE BEEF all ail parts parts of of beef beef are are called beef, whereas in in England England only the the best best cuts cuts are called beef and whereas

BOEUF - In In the the U.S.A., U .S.A, BoEIJF

the less less choice choice are are termed ox. ox. Example: Example: rump rump of of beef, fillet fiUet the of beef; ox ox liver, liver, ox ox tongue. tongue. ofbeef;

Beef amourettes amourettes (ox (ox marrow). marrow). AMoURETTE AMOURETTE ns DE soeur BOEUF - In In Beef French the the name name amourette amourette defines defines the the spinal marrow. The French spinal marrow marrow of beef beef or ox is used used in cookery cookery and and even even spinal more so so the the spinal marrow marrow of of calves. more for Calves' AIl methods of preparation given elsewhere for All (veall (veal) amourettes amourettes (which are more more delicate in flavour than those of beef beef or oxen) are applicable applicable to the arnourettes amourettes of those beef or ox. ox. becf Beef or ox brain bram. cERVELIJ CERVELLE DE BoELJF BOEUF - Method of ofpreparaBeef water. Clean tion. Soak the the brain at at least least 4 hours in cold cold water. lion. ail the the membranes membranes which the brain. cover the which coyer well; remove all Soak once again in cold water to make quite white. Put into court-bouillon (q.v.), prepared with with water, boiling strained curt-bouillon lemon sliced carrots and onions, on ions, a dash of vinegar or on juice, or lem salt, sprig sprig of minutes. salt, of thyme, bay leaf. Cook for 20 to 25 minutes. recipes. appropriate recipes. Drain, and and prepare as described in appropriate is not to to he used at in the court' the courtat once, once, keep in be used If the brain is bouillon in which it was cooked. Ali of section for the preparation of All the recipes given in this section Calves' ox brains. to ox can he be applied to Calves' brains (see below) can pIEDs DE Beef as aa are only only used used as DE BOEUF BoETJF -- These are feet PIEDS Beef or ox feet garnish for de Caen. Cam. mode de la mode cooked àd la for tripe cooked Beef or like Calfs Calf s Prepared Iike BoEuF -- Prepared DE BOEUF coEUR DE or OX ox heart COEUR heart (see below). B~f meat variety meat This variety BoEUF - This DE BOEUFRocNoNs DE Beef or ox ox kidneys. kidneys. ROGNONS or and often often tough, in taste mediocre in taste and is mediocre which is or piece of offal, which can given in in this in the the recipes given described in as described can he be prepared as (see below)' (veal) kidneys kidneys (see section for Calf s (veal) although liver, although ox liver, BoEuF -- Beef Beef or or ox FoIE DE DE BOEUF Beef or ox liver. FOIE inferior recipes in the the recipes prepared as described in as described be prepared in flavour, flavour, can can be inferior in given (see below). (veal) liver liver (see below). given for for Calfs Calf s (veal) preBeef can he be preThis can BoEUF -- This DE BOEUF MUsEAU DE muzde. MUSEAU Beef or or ox ox muzzle. tongue for Ox Ox tongue recipes given for most of of the the recipes pared as in most as described described in cold, seasoned seasoned (see below). More muzzle isis served cold, More often, often, muzzle as hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'auvre. dressing, as vinegar dressing, with oil and vinegar For muzzle, prepreparation cook cook the the muzzle, of preparation method of For this this method viously When it isis hours. When to 88 hours. from 66 to water, from in salted salted water, viously soaked soaked in cold, vinegar, salt, salt, with oil, oil, vinegar, season with slices, season cut into into thin thin sUces, cold, eut pepper sprinkled often spnnkled This salad salad isisoften herbs. This fine herbs. pepper and and chopped chopped fine with chopped onion. onion. with chopped Beef (variety offal (variety Pieceof of offal BoEUF- - Piece DEBOEUF PALAIS DE Beef or or ox ox palate. PALAIS very was very days itit was olden days In the theolden nowadays. In used nowadays. meat) not much used popular. foraalong long time time inin preparation. Soak Soak the the palate for of preparation. Method of cold the Removethe drain.Remove anddrain. it, allow allow to to cool, and water. Blanch Blanch it, cold water. skin it. which covers covers it. skin wruch Cook (see head(see for Calfs Calfshead as for court-bouillon as white court-bouillon Cook inin white below). below). Bee! DE or OX ox palate attereaux. ATTEREA(x DE PALAIS DE Beef or BOEUF BoEUF -- See See ATTEREAUX. Beef DE PALAISDE DEPALAIS FRIToTDE palatefried batter. FRITOT fried inin batter. Beefor or OX ox palate BOEUFinto above;cut cutinto described above; coolasasdescribed andallow allowtotocool BoEUF - Cook Cook and uniform oil, mixtureofofail, hourininaamixture for 1I hour pieces.Mannate Marinate for uniform pieces. leman and juice and lightbatter batter.and parsley.Soak Soak ininaalight andchopped choppedparsley. lemon juice deep-fry parsley, and andserve serve friedparsley, withfried fat. Garnish Garnish with sizzlingfat. deep-fry ininsizzling with (seSAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato Beef AUGRATIN GRATINDEBOEUF BoEUFAU gratin. PALAIS PALAIS DE augratin. ox palateau Beef or orox Cook ona a crownon Arrangeininaacrown andslice. slice.Arrange aboveand the palate asasabove Cook the buttered (seSAUCE), SAUCE), sauce(see Duxelle sauce with Duxelle Cover with buttered dish.Coyer sprinkle top. thetop. andbrown brownthe gratedbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand withgrated sprinkle with

completely shops completely in butchers' butchers' shops is normally Ox Ox tail tai! is normally sold in unskinned require unskinned which require dishes which are sorne some dishes skinned, but there there are stuffed preparation of boned, stuffed of boned, for the the preparation for instance for ox tail, ox tail, for ox tail. tai!. way, the the speaking, before being cooked in any way, Generally "l-"-<"'.H1l"" Generally to ununsame applies to is cu cutt into uniform chunks. The same tailil is ox ta ox boned when, before before being boned in cases cases when, ox ta tail, skinned ox il, except in skinned left who whole. has to to be left it has and stuffed, stuffed, it and le. as indicated indicated braised, as usually braised, pieces, the the ox ox tail tail isis usually Cut into pieces, METHODS, (see BEEF; BEEF; CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, dish (see for this this type type of dish garnishes recommended recommended with the the garnishes be served served with Braising).It Braising). It can be (see BEEF, Top rump). rump). BEEF, Top rump (see top rump braised top for braised for ox ox most suitable garnishes are are the suitable for the most following garnishes The following The bourguignonne; chipolata bourgeoise; bourguignonne; berrichonne; bourgeoise; tail: berrichonne; tail: various fresh, compote; fermière; sausages; sa usages ; compote; flamande; various fermiire; flamande; maraichire; braised glazed vegetables; vegetables; maraîchère; or glazed braised or buttered, braised (or other pasta products); products); other pasta l'italienne (or macaroni àd l'italienne chestnuts; macaroni chestnuts; purles of various piimontaise; purées of various noodles; piémontaise; fresh noodles; nivernaise; fresh nivernaise; (fresh or tortue. dried); tortue. or dried); vegetables (fresh vegetables garnish isis either either disposed the garnish on its'nature, the Depending on Depending timbale. After or served separately inrn aa timbale. ox tail tail or around the the ox around its braising braising disb its arranged on on aa servingdish, has been been arranged ox tail tail has the ox the poured over it. overil. down, strained strained and poured be boiled boiled down, liquor should should he BRAIsfE - FARcIE BRAISÉE DE BOEUF BoEUFFARCIE tail. QUEUE ox tait Braised stuffed stuffed ox QuEUE DE Bone itit water. Bone cold water. ox tail tail inin cold unskinned ox whole, unskinned Soak aa whole, Soak on the the table, table, Spread ititon skin. Spread the skin. without damaging the carefully, carefully, without entire theentire andfill fill along the with salt, salt" pepper and spicesand season season with forcemeat - finely poundd Porkforcemeat length with some !or'celmeat length with sorne (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS) is the most suitable FORCEMEATS or (see and frid ininbutter butterand lightlyfried onion Iightly chopped onion -- mixed mixed with with chopped tail,sew sew Reshape the thetail, anegg. egg. Reshape parsley, bound with an bound with chopped parsley, chopped long withstring andtie string asasaalong tiewith clothand wrap ininaac10th up up the theslit slitside, side, wrap ballottine. ballottine. Top recipefor fotTop therecipe describedininthe stock asasdescribed Braise Braise inin brown brown stock (see BEEF). rump,braised braised (see garnishes thegarnishes accompanied by the can beaccompanied tail can ox tai! Stuffed ox cookedinin pieces. forox oxtail tailcooked above for recommended recommendedabove BoEUF DEBOEUF Grilled Sainte-Menehould" QUEUE tail Sainte-Menehould. ox taiJ Grilled ox QUEUEDE ratherbig big intorather oxtail tailinto Cutthe theox GRILLÉE sAINTE-MENEHouLD- -Cut crunfr SAINTE-MENEHOULD (q.v.). pot-au-fat(q.v.). chunks pot asasaapot-au-feu stockpot and cook cook ininaastock chunks and pressinin undera apress andcool coolunder Drain them, and bone them, Drain the the pieces, bone Drain,spread spread cooked'Drain, werecooked. the which they theywere thestrained strained liquidininwhich with cayenne pepper, with flavouredwith with mustard slightlyflavoured rollinin fresh breadcrumbs, sprinkle with melted butter, roll sprinklewith grill. and lowgrill. underaalow andcook cook under Piquante, Diable,Piquante, Serve suchasasDiable, sauce,such spicedsauce, withaaspiced Serve with (seeSAUCE). Poivrade, SAUCE). Poivrade,etc. etc.(see HOCITEPOT - -Cut cut Ox BOEUFEN ENHOCHEPOT DEBOEUF hochepot.QUEUE tailenenhochepot. oxtaD QUELJEDE chunks. not"into intounifonn uniformchunks. the skinnedorornot, whether skinned theox oxtail, tail,whether into pieces, pig'strotters, cutinto Put pot with trotters,eut with22pig's Putinto intoaastock stockpot cover, bring to and watertotocover, pig'sear. enoughwater ear.Add Addenough andaawhole wholepig's gentlyfor hours' for2 2hours. the ove scum andsimmer simmergently remove scumand boil,rem theboil, quarters,3 3carrots and carrotsand Add cutininquarters, cabbagecut blanchedcabbage Add1Ismall smallblanched Simmer 22turnips, onions.Simmer pieces,and and10l0small smallonions. cutinto intopieces, turnips,eut gently gentlyfor for22hours. hours. Drain and pig'strotters. trotters. Arrange them oxtail tailand Drainthe the piecesofofox middle, andsursurthemiddle, vegetablesininthe Putthe theV"~;"i.<'Ul'''''' on a large dish.Put pig'sear cut eareut andthe thepig's sausagesand chipolatasausages round with grilledchipc,lat:a potatoes. into strips. Serve with boiledpotatoes.

-

629 629

OFFAL OFFAL downthe thesauce sau@tototbicken pasthrough thickenit,it,pass througha astrainer, strainer,and and down pourover overthe thetongue. tongue. pour Garnishes for braisedtongue: tongueibourguignonne; bourguignonne;bruxelloise; bruxelloise ; Garnishes forbraised cdvenole; chipolata chipolatasausages; sausages;braised braisedchicory; chicory; buttered cévenole; buttered pur6e;fermière; spinachpurée; jardiniire ;macédoine; spinach macidoine ; fermiCre ;flamande; flamande ;jardinière; milanaise, nivernaise, (orother nivernaise, noodles noodles (or pasta otherpas withananItalian ta with milanaise, Italian pur6esofoffresh freshorordried driedvegeta vegetables; green bles; various sasauce); uce); purées variousgreen vegetables braised braisedorordressed dressedwith withbutter; risotto. butter;risotto. vegetables Thesauce sauceisismade madewith withwhite whitewine, redwine wine,red The wineororMadeira. Madeira. Beefororox oxfongue tongueàI lah diable. diable. LANGUE LANcTJEDE nsBOEUF noruFÀALArl Beef DIABLE- -Cut poachodcold Cutbraised braised or orpoached coldtongue tonguecrossways crosswaysinto DIABLE into rather thick thickslices. slices.Spread Spreadwith withmustard, mustard,dip dipininmelted meltedbutter rather butter andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs and andsprinkle sprinklewith withmelted meltedbutter. and butter.Grill Grill gentle undergent heat, browning browningon onboth both sides. le heat, under sides. Serve Servewith with (seeSAUCE). Diable sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Diab/e Braisedbeef beefor a oxoxtongue tongue with with variOIl'i Braised variors sauces. stuoes.LANGUE LANGUEDE DE BoEUF BRAISÉE eRArsfE- - Braise Braise the thetongue tongueand BOEUF andserve servewith withone oneof ofthe the following sauces: sauces: Mushroom; Mushroom; Chasseur; following Chasseur; Lyonnaise; Lyonnaise; poivrade; (or other Madeira (or other wine wine sauces); sauces); Piquante; Madeira Piquante; Poivrade; Tomatosauce, (seeSA santce, etc. etc. (see SAUCE). TomaLO UCE). Beefor orox ox tongue gratin. LANGUE tongue au augratin. LANGLJE DE Beef DEBOEUF BoEIJFAU AUGRATINcRATTN Cut braised braised cold cold tongue tongue into into slices, slices, not Cut not too toothin. thin. Arrange Arrange them in in aacircle circle on on aa buttered buttered dish, dish,alternating thern alternating with with rows rowsof of thin slices slices of of lelean boiled barn. ham. Put thin an boiled Putcooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms on on the tongue. tongue. Pour Pour over (ser, SAUCE) over Duxe/les Duxelles sauce tbe sauce (see SAUCE) to towhich which juices in has been been added added the the juices has in which which the the tongue wascooked. tongue was cooked. Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and Sprinkle and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown grill or under aa grill or inin the the oven. under oven. (scarlet) beef Pickled (searlet) beef or or ox Pickled ox tongue. tongue. LANGUE LANcuE DE on BOEUF soBUFÀA t'fcARrlTE -- Soak Soak the L'ÉCARLATE the trimmed trimmed tongue for several tongue for several hours hours in in cold water, water, drain drain and and dry. dry. Prick cold and rub Prick itit ail all over overand rub thoroughly thoroughly with aa mixture mixture of (sodium nitrate). of salt salt and and saltpetre with saltpetre (sodium nitrate). Put the the tongue tongue in10 into aa wooden Put wooden or or earthenware earthenware container. container. pickling brine Cover with with the the pickling Cover brine described described below, below, and and allow allow to to cool. Put Put on on aa wooden pressing down cool. wooden lid, lid, pressing down weIl, well, and and leave leave in in the brine brine for for six the six days days in in the the summer summer and and eight eight days days in in the the winter. Pickling brine brine for Pickling ox tongue. tongue. Pour Pour into into aa large large saucepan saucepan for ox (4| quarts, quarts, st litres (4i (5 lb., 55 litres 5f quarts) water, water, 2* 2I kg. kg.(S lb., 6t 63 cups) cups) (coarse salt), (5 oz.) sea salt sea salt (coarse salt), 150 150 g. g. (5 (ll oz., oz.) saltpetre, saltpetre, 300 g. (II 300 g. oz., junipei li cups) brown sugar, 11 sugar, 1I sprig sprig of of thyme, thyme, i1 bay bay leaf, leaf, 12 IZ juniper berries and peppercorns. and 12 12 peppercorns. berries Boil for for aa few Boil few minutes. minutes. Allow to to cool cool completely completely before before pouring the liquid over the liquid over the the tongue. Method of cooking cooktng ox ox tongue. tongue. After After pickling tbe the tongue, tongue, iq and soak in cold water for several hours drain it, hours to to free from free from salt. Boil it in water without salt. without any any seasoning or condiments from 2 to 3 hours, depending on on size. size. Tripe. GRAS-DOUBLE cRAs-DouBrr-- The best part ofbeef of beef or ox ox stomachs. stomachs. It is sold fresh, pictled, pickled, uncooked and cooked. If uncooked, 3t hours hours of cooking in it requires 3 to $ in aa salt salt water water courtcourt(q.v.).Pickled bouil/on(q.v.). Pickled tripe triperequires bouillon requires 110 I to 11 l| hoursofcooking hours of cooking in salted water. en blanquette. cRAs-DouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF EN BLANTripe en Tripe EN BLANQUETTE - Brown lightly Iightly 22large large tablespoons (scant ** cup) aJrErrE cup) oz., c,tp) cup) butter. Sprinkle with chopped onion onion with with 50 50 g. (2 oz.,or chopped Sprinkle with (1 pint, 2| 2t cups) cups) stock. stock. Mix, tablespoon flour fiour and and add add 66 dl. (l I1 tablespoon Mix, and boil boil for for a few few minutes. and (li lb., 3f 3! cups) cups) cooked tripe tripe cut cut Add to to this this sauce sauce 750 750 g. (li Add bouquet into pieces. pieces. Season with salt and and pepper, add a a bouquet into garni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and cook, cook, uncovered, uncovered, for for l| 11 hours. hours. B~fore serving, bind bind with with 22 egg egg yolks yolks mixed mixed with with 22 tabletableBpfore (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cold cold water. water. Blend Blend well, weil, add add 22 tabletablespoons (3 spoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh butter, butter, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped spoons (3 spoons of lemon lemon juice. juice. To serve, serve, heap heap parsley and and several several drops drops of parsley high on on aa serving serving plate. plate. high la borngeoise. bourgeoise. cn.ls-pouBlE GRAS-DOUBLE on DE rosur BOEUF A À rn LA Tripe ià la Tripe BOURGEOISE - Brown lightly 12 12 small small onions on ions in in 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., BouRGEorsE - Brown lightly

Beeftongue Beeftongue

Beef or orox oxfongue. tongue. LANGUE LANcuE DE DEBOEUF BoEtJF- - Ox Oxtongue tonguecan canbe be Beef usd fresh fresh or or salted, salted, when whenitit should shouldbe besteeped steeped inin salt salt24 24 used hours. hours. If used used fresh, fresh"soak soak inin cold cold water water for for several severalhours, hours, trim trim If and skin skin and and braise braise or poach the or poach the tongue. tongue. and Braised. The The tongue prepared inin the tongue isis prepared the same same way way asas aa Braised. piece of braised beef, and can be accompanied by garnishes piece of braised beef, and can be accompanied by garnishes recommended for (Bourgeoise; Bourguignonne; for this this dish dish (Bourgeoise; Bourguignonne; recommended Sauerkraut; Milanaise; Milanaise; etc., etc., see see GARN1SHES). GARNISHES). Sauerkraut; Poached. Poach Poach like like Top (se, BEEF), Top rump rump (see BEEF), and and add add the the Poached. garnishes. same garnishes. same Salted. Poach Poach and and serve (scarlet) beef serve cold cold as as Pickled Pickled (scarlet) beef or or Sa/ted. (see below), ox tongue tongue (see below), or or hot hot with with various various vegetable pur6es vegetable purées ox (see PUREP). (see PURÉE). Beef or or ox ox tongue tongue ài l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. LANGUE LANGIE DE or BOEUF soEUF ÀA Beef L'ALsACTENNE Poach the the tongue, tongue, soaked, soaked, skinned skinned and and L'ALSACIENNE -- Poach trimmed in in stock stock with with aa bouquet garni (q.v.) (q.v.) until bouquet garni until halfhalftrimmed cooked. Finish Finish cookingwith cooking with separately prepared sauerkraut separately prepared sauerkraut cooked. (q.v.) and and lean lean bacon. bacon. (q.v.) Drain the the tongue. tongue. Arrange Arrange itit on on aa bed bed of sauerkraut. of sauerkraut. Drain Surround with with thin thin slices slices of of bacon bacon and and Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages sausages Surround (see SAUSAGE) which which have have been poached for been poached for 10 l0 minutes minuies (see SAUSAGE) in boiling boiling water. water. Serve Serve with with boiled potatoes. boiled potatoes. in Beef or or ox ox tongue tongue ài la la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. LANGUE LANGUE DE or BOEUF nonur ÀA LA u Beef BouRGEorsE -- Braise Braise the the tongue tongue in in the (See the usual usual way. way. (See BOURGEOISE BEEF, Braised beef) beef.) Wben When itit isis nearly nearly cooked, cooked, remove remove BEEF, Braised from saucepan. saucepan. Strain Strain the the stock stock in in which which the the tongue tongue was was from boild strainer. Put Put the the tongue back back into the the boiled through through aa fine fine strainer. pan. garnish: half-cooked bourgeoise garnish: half-cooked carrots carrots cut cut to to pan. Add Add bourgeoise uniform glazed onions and pieces of and pieces unifonn size, size, little little half-cooked half-cooked glazed larding in butter. Pour the strained strained stock larding bacon bacon lightly lightly frid fried in over everything together in in a over the the tongue. tongue. Finish Finish cooking cooking everything moderate 350oF., gas moderate oven oven (180'C., (l80°C., 350°F., gas Mark 4). Brris€d or ox LANGT.TE Braised beef beef or ox tongue ton gue with with various variOIl'i garnishe"s garnishes. LANGUE DE DE BoETJF BOEUF sRArsfo BRAISÉE - Braise Braise the the tongue slowly in in the the usual way. Braised beef) Drain Drain and surround with the way. (See (See BEEF, BEEF, Braisedbeef.) garnish fat, boil garnish specified. specified. Strain Strain the stock, remove surplus fat,

t

Cold Coldbeeftongue beef tongue

630 630

OFFAL OFFAL butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, brown brown ".rp) and slightly, and moisten moisten with with 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint" pint, 2| 21- cups) cups) stock. stock. Mix Mix

provided provided by by the the feet feet and and fatty matter, matter, which which is is to to form fonn aa fat taken off is This liquid. above the protective layer protective layer above the This is fat taken off beef beef cut cut in in slices. slices. 2 should be ingredients The The net net weight weight of of the the basic basic ingredients should he 2 kg. kg. (4t (# lb.), lb.), and and the the following following ingredients ingredients are are then then added: added: I1whole whole ox ox or or calf's calf's foot, foot, 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) beef beeffat, fat, 55 medium medium onions, onions, 55 medium medium carrots, carrots, 300 300 g. (11 (11 oz.) oz.) leeks, leeks, aa bouquet bouquet 4 cloves leaf), (withthe and bay on thyme garni the accent accent on thyme bay Jeaf), 4 cloves garlic, garlie, pinch pepper, a iS g. t* o2.,2 teaspoons) salt, salt, I1teaspoon teaspoon pepper, a pinch of of oz., 2 teaspoons)

t

and boil boil for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Put Put in in aa saucepan saucepan 750 750 g. g. (l3lb., (lt lb., 3|3t cups) cups) cooked cooked tripe tripe cut cut into into pieces. pieces. Season, Season, add add aa bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v'), (q.v.), and and boil boil fast. fast. Add Add 24 24 small small new new carrots, carrots, lightly Iightly blanched, blanched, and and the the same same number number of of small small half-cooked half-cooked onions. onions. Cover Cover the the saucepan saulcelJan and and cook cook for for lf 11 hours. hours. When When served, served, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped parsley. parsley. Ll rrnudnr Tripe Tripe ià la la fermidre. fermière. cRAs-DouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF AÀLA FERMIÈREBrown Brown lightly Iightly 44 tablespoons tablespoons ($ Hcup) cup) chopped onion onion 7nd and 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* Hcup) cup) young young dicd diced carrots carrots in in 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz., cup) cup) butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour, Bour, allow eolour slightly, slightly, add add 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pinq pint, 2| 2t cups) cups) stock stock and and allow to to colour boil boil for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Add cooked cooked tripe tripe seasoned seasoned with with salt and and pepper. Cover Add and cook 11 hours. hours. Ten Ten minutes minutes before before serving, add 2 and cook tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms fried in in butter. butter. Fricd Fried fripe tripe in breadcnmbs. breadcrumbs. cus-pouBle GRASdDQUBLE DB DE BoEUF, BOEUF, FRIT FRIT plNE PANÉ - Cut cooked tripe into into little little pieces, pieces, season with with salt salt and pepper, dip in in egg egg and breadcrumbs and fry in fat fat or or oil. ail. As soon saon as as the tripe tripe turns turns golden golden and becomes bec ornes crisp, crisp, drain, drain, and and serve serve with with Diable, Diable, Piquante, Piquante, Rimoulade, Rémoulade, Tartare, Tomato Tomato or any other other spiced sauce (see (see SAUCE). cnu,lf Gri[ed Grilled tripe til I'espagnole. l'espagnole. cRAs-DouBLB GRAS-DOUBLE DE BoEUF BOEUF GRILLÉ 3+ cups) cooked and wellA À r'nsp^lcNorr L'ESPAGNOLE -- Cut Cut 750 750 g. g. (ll (li lb., 3t well4 table' for 1I hour drained drained ripe tripe into pieces. Marinate for hour in in 4 table(t cup) oil, oil, I teaspoon lemon juice, 1I teaspoon salt, spoons <1 I tablespoon and 1 3 to 4 peppercorns and raO>leS]pOC)ll chopped parsley. Drain the pieces, cover with breadcrumbs and grill under gentle heat. gentle rows of with rows of crown, alternating alternating with in aa crown, the tripe Arrange tripe in Arrange the and in rounds and sliced in onions halved tomatoes fried in oil. Put on ions slieed fried fried in oil in the centre. voNLl Lt YONBoEUF À A LA DE BOEUF cRAs-DouBl,E DE la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. GRAS-DOUBLE Tripe àI la Tripe strips. into thin thin strips. cut into and cut the tripe tripe and and drain drain the NAISE - Cook Cook and NAlSE tableand add add 44large Season, and lard. Season, sizzling butter or lard. Fry in sizzling large tablein butter butter or or (generous i* cup) fried in onion fried chopped onion cup) chopped spoons (generous spoons the tripe tripe isis browned. until the together until Mix and and cook cook together lard. Mix lard. pan, frying pan, in the the frying heated in dash ofvinegar of vinegar heated add aa dash When serving serving add When with and th chopped parsley. and sprinkle wi DE CAEN In uopr DE cAEN -- In TRIPBs À A LA Le MODE de Caen. TRIPES la mode mode de Tripe àI la find one can can find France one in France cities in other big big cities and several Paris and several other Paris and to serve serve and ready to and ready cooked and de Caen, Caen, cooked la mode Tripes àd la mode de Tripes prepared quality, as are prepared dishes are as these these dishes excellent quality, of excellent frequ
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allspice.

In principle, the liquid used used should should be be cider, cider, strengthened strengthened

with a few spoonfuls Sp~J011fuls of of Calvados Calvados or or other other spirits spirits with with aa cider eider base. base. Bu! as as itit often often happens happens that that tripe tripe prepared prepared with with

±

cider eider turns turns dark" dark, itit is is best best to to use use plain plain water. water. The The amount amount of of liquid Iiquid should should be be sufficient sufficient for for the the tripe tripe to to quatity, The be be completely eompletely submerged. submerged. The quatity, therefore, therefore, will will depend depend on on the the type ofutensil of utensil used. used. Method. Method. Line Line the bottom bottom of of the the marmite marmite or or casserole casserole with with onions onions and and carrots carrots cut eut into into pieces' On On top of of these these put the the ox ox into two split pieces, and its bone, into and cut foot, foot, boned boned and eut into (2finch) square cm. lengthways. lengthways. Add Add the the tripe, tripe, cut eut into 6 6 cm. pieies. pieces. Insert lnsert the the garlic, garlic, bouquet bOUiJuet garni garni (q.v.\ and the leeks, ii"O tied in in aa bunch, bunch, among among the the pieces pieces of of tripe. tripe. Season with with salt, salt, freshly ground pepper pepper and and spices. spices. Cover Cover the the whole whole with with beef beef freshly ground water pour enough in and fat fat cut eut into into slices slices and and flattened, flattened, and pour in enough water to to cover. cover. casseiole, on the out rather Put Put the the paste paste lid, lid, rolled rolled out rather thick, thick, on the casserole, until the oven until Cook in hermetically. Cook as to to seal seil the so as the top top hermetically. in the the oven the so about for about oven for slow oven and leave paste is Cover, and set. Cover, leave in in aa slow is well weil set. l0 hours. hours. Drain the fat' Drain of fat. layer of out the the layer Take out lid. Take Remove the Remove the paste lido the leeks of leeks bouquet garnl, bunch remove tripe, rem ove the vegetables, bouquet bunch of strain dish; into a serving the tripe into a bones. Put the and aU all the the bones. dish; strain gravy over the over the pour the the gravy and pour fat, and gravy, skim surplus fat, off surplus skim off the gravy, the tripe. tripe. to serve. serye. ready to until ready bain-marle until Keep hot hot in in aa bain-marie Keep poroNllsr A LA Ll POLONAISE BoEUF À DB BOEUf polonaise J. rnlpss DE I. TRIPES la polonaise Tripe àI la Tripe cool allow to to cool drain, allow (see BLANCHING) the tripe, tripe, drain, BLANCHING) the Blanch (see Blanch with aa hours, with or 55 hours, for 44 or to cook cook for water to put into and put into boiling water and (see SOUPS AND Potau'fat (see as for for Pot-au-feu garnish of of vegetables as garnish SOUPS AND slices. cut into into slices. and eut the tripe and BROTHS). Drain the BROTHS). parsnips root or or parsnips julienne (q.v.) of celery, parsley root Prepare aa julienne Prepare the until stock tripe in strained and boil Carrots, and and carrots, and in tripe stock until the vegetables.,Season to the the vegetables. Add the the tripe to done. Add vegetables are are done. ve!~etables Season sweet little powdered sweet pepper and and add aa little and pepper with salt salt and BUTTER' butter (see BUTTER, Kneaded butter in sorne some Kneaded Blend in marjoram. Blend marjoram. dish. flat dish. boil. Serve Serve in aa flat Bring to to the the boil. butters). Bring Compound butters). Compound A LA LA BoEUF À DE BOEUF potonaise II. GRAS-DOUBLE cns-pouBt,n DE Tripe à la polonaise Tripe in butter butter poloNrusn strips, in in thin thin strips, cut in tripe, cut cooked tripe, Fry the the cooked POLONAISE -- Fry with chopped chopped and sprinkle sprinkle with dish and in aa dish Arrange in brown. Arrange until itit isis brown. until of dash of parsley. Dress with aa dash Dress with yolks and and parsley. egg yolks hard-boiled egg hard-boiled pan, juice and from the the pan, pour on butter from on the the butter and pour lemon juice vinegar or or lemon vinegar browned. been browned. have been (2 OZ., breadcrumbs have g. (2 cup) breadcrumbs 50 g. oz., 1I cup) in which which 50 in BoELJF A rn ponruDE BOEUF cRAS-DoLJBLE DE la portugaise. GRAS-DOUBLE Tripe ài la Tripe À LA PORTUcooked cups) tripe, previously cooked lb., 3! Cut 7SO g. (l| lb., cxsu - Cut $ cups) GAISE l| cups) cups) Simmer with 3 dl. (t and drained, into pieces. Simmer G pint" li lid on. on. 20 minutes minutes with aa lid (see FONDUE), for for 20 Tomato fondue fon&te (see Tomato parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped sprinkle with dish, sprinkle on aa dish, Arrange on Arrange pourerts t-l POULETTE BoEUFÀALA DEBOEUF poulette J.L GRAS-DOUBLE cnls-oousln DE Tripe ài lala poulette Tripe hot (l keep hot inch) square; pieces 2tcm. into tripe the --'Cui 'Cut the tripe into pieces 21 cm. (1 inch) square; keep meat andmeat little butter butter and with aa!ittle bain'mane with or bain-marie boiler or double boiler inin aadouble (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see jelly. Make Allemandesauce Make sorne some light Allemande jelly. parsley. Mix Mix chopped parsley. blanched chopped lightly fried blanched somelightly lAAing sorne adding juice of I lemon. Heat in a add the tripe; it with the half of half of it with the tripe; add the of 1 lemon. Heat in a g. adding2S0 allemande, adding restof of the allemande, with the therest cover with andcover dish,and 250 g. dish, (FromCarême and Car0me and peeled mushrooms.' cups)peeled mushrooms.' (From oz.,2f cups) (9(9 oz., Plumerey.) DE BoEIJFA LA PoULETTE Tripe tla poulette II. cRAs-DouBLE DE BOEUF À LA POULETTE

l|

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631 631

OFFAL OFFAL

Preparation of of tripe tripe dà la la mode mode de de Caen Caen (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Preparation

Cut cooked cooked and and drained drained tripe tripe into into small small pieces pieces and simmer simmer -- Cut for for aa few few minutes minutes in in 33 dl. dl. $(~ pint, pint, lf li cups) cups) poulette Poulette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add lzlightly 12 lightly cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms and I1 tabletablespoon spoon chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Heat Heat in in aa serving serving dish. dish. Tripe Tripe ià la la provengale. provençale. cR,c.s-oouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE DE nopur BOEUF A À re LA pRovENgALE PROVENÇALE -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Tripe m en blanquetfe, blanquette, using using shredded shredded bacon bacon fat fat or or pork pork fat fat instead instead

of butter. After After binding binding the the sauce with egg of yolk, add sauce with egg yolk, add aa few few

of basil basil pounded with with bacon bacon fat pork fat. leaves of fat or or pork fat. sautéed in in butter. butter. cRAs-DouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE BOEUF SAUTÉ Tripe saut6ed DE BoEuF slurs AU eu cooked tripe tripe into into square rectangular pieces. pieces. BEURRE - Cut BEURRE square or or rectangular - Cut cooked and pepper, sprinkle with Rour, and fry Season with salt Season with salt and pepper, sprinkle with flour, and fry in in until golden brown. brown. butter until Place on on a a serving serving dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped Place chopped 632

OFFAL (see COURT-BOUILLON) III (see COURT-BOUILLON) in Court-bouillon cooked in Court-bouillon III cooked in c1arified clarified and brown brown lightly in into slices. with flour and slices. Dredge with into rows of of ovalovalwith rows alternating with in aa crown, crown, alternating Arrange in butter. butter. Arrange few tabletableAdd aa few fried in in butter. butter. Add crottons of bread bread fried shaped croûtons (see SAUCE). wine (see Bordelaise sauce sauce with with red wine SAUCE). spoons of Bordelaise DE MOUTON, braire àI l'indienne. I'indienne. CERVELLE cERVELLE DE MouroN, Sheep's (lambs) brains D'AcNEAU, A L'INDIENNE r'nvDmNwn -- Like Like Ca/ves' Calves' brains brains àd l'indienne I'indienne D'AGNEAU, (see below). (lambs) brains with red wine. CERVELLE DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's (Iambs') cERVELLE DE Sheep's brains with D'AGNEAU, AU VIN vIN ROUGE RoUGE -- Like Calves' with red redwine, Calves' brains D'AGNEAU, wine, (ser', below). or àd la la bourguignonne (see Sheep's head. rBrr DE MOUTON MouroN-- Only Only the the tongue and and brain brain are used in cookery, cookery, though sheep's head can can be be of the sheep are sheep's head used in (see LAMB). prepared in the as lamb's lamb's head head (see LAMB). the same same way way as prepared RocNoNs DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's(lambs') kidneys kidneys ili l'anglaise. I'anglaise. ROGNONS Sheep's{lambs') D'AcNEAU, ÀA L'ANGLAISE Remove the L'aNct-nrss -- Remove the skin skin of of the the kidneys D'AGNEAU, and slit slit on on the the bulging bulging side. side. Open Open without without separating separating the and kidney keep the two halves completely. completely. Put on on aa skewer skewer to to keep the kidney two (2 pieces per skewer). pieces of and Season with with salt kidney per open (2 of kidney salt and skewer). Season open pepper, bmsh melted butter, in breadcrumbs and dip in brush with with melted butter, dip breadcrumbs and grill. Garnish grilled rashers potatoes Garnish with with grilled rashers of of bacon, bacon, boiled boiled potatoes (see pat of and watercress. Maftre d'hôtel d'hdtel butter butter (see watercress. Put Put aa pat of Maitre and of aa walnut, walnut, on on each each Compound butters), butters), the the size size of BUTTER, Compound kidney. prepared without without being being also be be prepared l'anglaise can can also Kidneys àd l'anglaise in butter and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. butter and dipped in MouroN, (lambs') kidneys RocNoNS DE DE MOUTON, kidneys Carvalho. Carvalho. ROGNONS Sheep's (lambs') cut in in two two and cut D'AGNEAU, Remove the the skjn skin and D'AGNEAU, CARVALHO cARvALHo -- Remove in sizzling sizzling butter. butter. lengthways. and sauté them briskly briskly in lengthways. Season Season and saut6 them dish, placing in aa crown crown on on aa dish, Arrange halved kidneys kidneys in Arrange the the halved frid inin butter. butter. Put on on them the same same shape, fried them on on croûtons crottons of of the and 1I mushroom mushroom each ney 22 thin slices of truffie truffie and each half half of kidney thin slices of aa kid cap in butter. cap fried fried in butter. with Demi-glace Demi-glace Lace pan juices with Madeira, dilute dilute with with Madeira, Lace the the pan pour over (see SAUCE), kidneys. and pour over the the kidneys. (see butter, strain, strain, and SAUCE), add butter, DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's RocNoNS DE Sheep's (lambs') $ambs') kidneys au gratin. ROGNONS D'AGNEAU, kidneys, seasoned halved kidneys, seasoned AU GRATIN D'AGNEAU, AU cRATIN - Saut6 the halved just to flame, to me, just with pepper, in brisk fla in butter butter over over aa brisk with salt and pepper, salt and stiffen stiffen them. them. Arrange Arrange them, them, bulging side up, on sausage stuffing or forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS or forcemeat (see or STUFFINGS) mixed (q.v.) piped in a with dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.) with aa third of its its weight inin dry third of into the forceforcePress them them slightly slightly into circle on a buttered dish. Press If kidney meat. half kidney and and on each each ha mushroom on meat. Put Put 1I cooked cooked mushroom surround forcemeat studded with slices slices of of uncooked uncooked surround with with forcemeat studded with (see SAUCE). mushrooms. Duxelles sauce sauce (see mushrooms. Pour Pour over over Duxelles Sprinkle melted butter and brown brown in and melted butter and Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and aa very very hot hot oyen. oven. Remove lemon few drops drops of Remove from squeezp aa few of lemon from the the oyen, oven, squeeze juice over and sprinkle with with chopped parsley. Sheep's kidneys saut6ed with mushrooms or with Sheep's (lambs') kidneys various nux D'AGNEAU, SAUTÉ slut6 AUX DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, RocNoNs DE various wines. wines. ROGNONS CHAMPIGNONS with mushmushsauthed wilh kidneys sautéed Like Cèpes' Calves' kidneys cHAMpIGNoNs -- Like (see rooms various wines wines (see with various and Calves' kidneys sauléed sautAed with rooms and Calves' kidneys below). below). Sheep's DE BRocHETTES DE on skewers. skewers. BROCHETTES Sheep's (lambs') Qambs') kidneys on ROGNONS Thread on on skewers skewers DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU -- Thread RocNoNS DE sheep's pieces of lightly of lightly square pieces cut into into small small slices, slices, square sheep's kidneys kidneys cut (see fried mushrooms tossed tossed inin butter butter (see fried bacon, and sliced sliced mushrooms bacon, and below, Ives , kidneys on onskewers). skewers). Calves' below, Ca Sheep's (lambs) kidneys Turbigo. RocNoNs DE MouroN, Sheep's (lambs') D'AGNEAU, Ives and and fry in ha halves TURBIGo -- Divide the kidneys in D'AGNEAU, TURBIGO briskly dish. Put Put inin the Arrange inin aa circle circle on onaa dish. in butter. briskly in butter. Arrange middle which the the butter inin which peeled mushrooms mushrooms fried fried inin the the butter middle peeled put 22 half of kidney put Between each each half of kidney cooked. Between kidneys were were cooked. butter, fried inin butter, link sausages, grilled or or fried chipolata,or small small link cap fried fried inin mushroomcap halves place I mushroom and on each of of the the halves on each butter. butter.

parsley and a little liule vinegar or lemon juice. juice. Heat the butter remaining remaining in the pan until sizzling and pour over the tripe.

VARIETY MEATS. LAMB LAMB or or MUTTON MUTION OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY ABATS D'AGNEAU. D'AGNEAU, DE MouroN: MOUTON'

for the the testicles AnimelJES (U.S. fry) -- Culinary terrn tenu for testicles of Animelles and sheep. sheep. In male male animals, in particular those those of lambs and animelles were very much in vogue in France, Spain the past animelles ltaly. and Italy. meats) and and there This is a delicate piece of offal (variety meats) are given which are preparing it, it, sorne some of which are many recipes for preparing below. and soak the animelles preparing them, scald, skin and Before preparing in cold water for 2 to 3 hours. lNlunlrns ÀA LA r.L AnimelJES (U.S. (U .S. fry) in in cream sauee. ANIMELLE5 Animelles cream sauce. Cut in in thin thin slices. Season with CRÈME - Cut and pepper. with salt salt and cniun in butter. Add Add aa few sauce (see few tablespoons Creun sauce Cook in tablespoons Cream add aa !iule gently. Before little SAUCE) and Before serving serving add SAUCE) and simmer simmer gently. and sorne butter. Mix weil. well. cream and some fresh fresh butter. thls manner, the animelles are mostly used as Prepared in this patties, pies and vol-au-vent dishes. Mushrooms a garnish for patties, truffles can be added to them. and trufres Fricassée ANIMELLEs EN E.N FRICASSÉEFRtcassfE Fricassde of ammelJES animelles (U.S. fry). ANIMELLE5 Slice the the animelles and cook cook in in CourlCourtinto escalopes escalopes and Slice animelles into bouillon XII (see (se COURT-BOUILLON). Drain, put into a (or left whole, shallow pan with cooked, sliced mushrooms (or (see SAUCE). Simmer if they are small). Add Poulette sauce (see Add Poulette gently gently without Before serving, serving, add sorne some without allowing to to boil. boil. Before butter. fresh fresh butter. Fried Frid ammelJes animelles (Plumerey's recipe). ANIMELLES DE MOUTONS - 'Choose 3 MouroNs FRITE5 FRITES-'Choose 3 fresh sheep's (mutton) animelles, rem ove the size. remove and cut cut each each into 8 pieces of uniform size. the skin and Put into an earthenware earthenware bowl with salt, pepper, 2 teaspoons j bay tarragon vinegar, 2 teaspoons olive oil, little thyme, oil, aa !iUle thyme, 1 leaf, Cover the the few sprigs of of parsley. Coyer leaf, 1I sliced sliced onion onion and aa few bowl. After After one give out liquid. out their liquid. hour they they should give bowl. one hour Drain, put back back into the bowl with the rest ingredients, rest of of the the Ingredients, and Before serving, lemon. Before serving, with the juice of half aa lemon. and sprinkle with drain on and fry with flour flour and fry dredge with on aa cloth, cloth, pressing lightly; dredge until garnish napkin and and garnish on aa napkin until golden. Arrange Arrange in a heap on with fried parsley.' Animelles (U.S. (U.S. fry) ANIMELLES FRITES FRITES -fry) fried fried in in batter. batter. ANIMELLE5 Cut Marinate for for 1I into broad, slices. Marinate animelles into broad, thin thin slices. Cut the the animelles hour in and pepper. choppd parsley, salt salt and in oil, oil, lemon juice, chopped When into light batter (see BATTERS When required, dip them them into FOR FRYING). Fry, and Serve and garnish with fried parsley. Serve with Tomato sauce with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Fried (U.S. fry) ANIMELLES fry) with with mushrooms. mushrooms. ANlMELLES Fried animelJES animelles (U.S. SAUTÉE5 and thoroughly thoroughly Aux CHAMPIGNONS Scald, skjn skin and s,turEES AUX cHAMpIcNoNs -- Scald, soak and dry. animelles, then then slice slice and soak the the animelles, Sauté me in in sizzling butter off and finish finish off flame butter and Saut6 on on aa brisk brisk fla as with for Calves' kidneys kidneys sautéed sautded with recipe for as described describod in in the the recipe mushrooms (see below). mushrooms (see below). AnimeUES .S. fry) (U.S. lNrrrnlrns ÀA LA u fry) ài lala vinaigrette. ANIMELLE5 Animelles (U VINAIGRETTE white court-bouillon court-bouillon animelles in aa white vINAIGRETTE -- Cook Cook the the animelles as (see below). sauce with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce for Calf s head below). Serve Serve with as for head (see (see (see SAUCE). Sheep's D'AGNEAU DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU brains. CERVELLE cERVELLE DE Sheep's (lambs') Qambs) brains. -- Ali and calves' calves' for ox ox (beef) and All methods methods of of preparation given for brains and lambs' lambs'brains. applied to brains can can be be applied to sheep's and The membranes covering covering The brains must be be first first soaked, the the membranes brains must them III in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon 11/ removed, and and the the brains brains cooked cooked in them removed, (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). COURT-BOUILLON). Sheep's DE (lambs) brains fried inin batter. batter. CERVELLE cERvELLE DE brains fried Sheepns (lambs') MOUTON, FRIToT -- Like Like Calves' Calves' brains brains fried MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AcNEAU, EN EN FRlTOT fried intn balter (see below). batter (see below). Sheep's DE bordelaise. CERVELLE csnvELLE DE brains ài )ala bordelaise. Sheep's (lambs') Qambs') brains MOUTON, brains, La BORDELAlSE soRDELAIsE -- Cut Cut the the brains, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA

633 633

OFFAL OFFAL

Kidneys on on skewers. skewers. How How to to open open kidneys kidneys and and how skewer [hem how to Kidneys them to skewer

juices with Add white white wine wine to pan juices to the the pan with tomato-fiavoured tomato-flavoured Add (see SAUCE), Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE), blend, pour over blend, and and pour the over the Demi-glace dish. dish. kidneys au au vert-pré. vert-pr6. ROGNONS DE MOUTON, MouroN, RocNoNs DE Sheep's (1ambs') Qambs) kidneys D'AGNEAU, AU itu VERT-PRÉ vnnr-pRf -- Prepare Prepare as as for for Sheep's Sheep's kidneys kidneys on on D'AGNEAU, garnish with Arrange on on aa dish dish and and gamish potato straws with potato straws skewers. Arrange pat of on the the kidneys kidneys aa pat Maitre d'hôtel of Maître d'hdtel and watercress. Place on (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). butter Lamb's lillver. ron D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU -- Lamb's Lamb's liver liver isis rarely rarely Lamb's ver. FOIE prepared by itself. It It fonns part of by itself. forms aa part pluck, of the the animal's animal's pluck, prepared is used for ragoûts. used for ragofrts. which is The liver liver can can be be cooked cooked on on skewers skewers as as Calfs Calfs /iver liver on on The (see below), or it it can can be fried in in butter be fried butter like like Calfs Calf s skewers (see (see below). Iiver àd l'anglaise I'anglaise (see /iver pluck ài l'anglaise. Lamb's pluck I'anglaise. FRESSURE FRESSURE D'AGNEAU D'AcNEAU ÀA Lamb's L'ANGLAISE -- Slice the the lamb's lamb's liver, liver, heart, heart, spleen and and lungs lungs L'ANGLAISE (the last last two having previously previously been two having for 10 l0 been blanched blanched for (the minutes in salted water). the lamb's sweetbread. pepper sweetbread. Season with salt and pepper Season with salt and Slice the all the above ingredients in fiour. flour. Fry in a shallow and dredge ail pan in c1arified clarified butter. butter. Drain Drain and and arrange arrange on aa dish. Put 1I dish. Put pan in tablespoon fiour flour into the pan in which which the the pluck was was fried and few moments to to brown lightly; lightly; add add 1I dl. and cook cook for for aa few (6 tablespoons, scant t* cup) Madeira, aa few few tablespoons of (6 tablespoons, "rrp) of Harvey sauce and aa few drops drops sauce (English spice veal stock and sauce). Pour this sauce over the pluck. pluck. Lambs'tongues LANGUEs D'AGNEAU D'AGNEAU -- These are are usually Lambs' tongues. LANGUES They can braised. They can also also be cooked in in white white court-bouillon be cooked (q.v.) Calf s tongue (see below) and and treated in the the sa (q.v.) like Calfs me same way. Serve with a garnish dressed with butter or Serve gamish of vegetables, dressed braised; braised; as as a a ragofit, ragoût, with with mushrooms, with chipolata or link etc. link sausages, sausages, with young carrots, carrots, àd la bouguignonne, bouguignonne, etc. The tongue diable, fried ton gue can also be prepared grilled àd la diable, fried in butter, in buttered papers (as ln Sainte(as rib chops of veal) àd la SainteMmehould Menehould (as (as pig's trotters, see below), in cripinettes crépinettes (q.v.) etc. Lembo' Lambs' sweetbreads. Rrs RlS D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU - Most of the recipes

given for for Calves' Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads can given for lambs' lambs' sweetcan be be used used for sweetbreads. breads. put them pan. Moisten Soak the the sweetbreads sweetbreads and and put Soak them into into aa pan. Moisten with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white stock. with Add 1I teaspoon stock. Add teaspoon butter butter juice. Coyer and aa few few drops drops of and of lemon lemon juice. and simmer Cover and for 25 25 simmer for (strained) in minutes. Leave Leave to minutes. to cool cool in in the the stock in which stock (strained) which they they proceed as were cooked, cooked, and and proceed were as indicated indicated in in the the selected selected recipe. recipe. Lambs' sweetbreads Lambs' sweetbreads are are used garnish for as aa gamish used as for vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, patty shells, pies, timbales, patty shells, raised raised pies, timbales, various various decorative decorative borders, etc. etc. borders, They can can also also be They be served servd fried fried with with Cream, Crearn, Poulette, Poulette, (se SAUCE), Curry or Curry or Hungarian Hungarian sauce souce (see SAUCE), on on skewers, in skewers, in scallop shells, scallop shells, in in batter, as cromesquis batter, as cromesqurs or or croquettes, croquettes, with with pilaf, etc. etc. pilaf, garnish for They are are aise also used They used as as garnish for eggs, and for eggs, and for small small entrie dishes dishes of meat chicken, entrée of meat, chicken, etc. etc. (For these (For these dishes, dishes, see Calves' sweetbreads se Calves' sweetbreads below.) below.) pArn CHAUD pflt6 of Hot pâté Hot of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbrea& ài l'ancienne. l'ancienne. PÂTÉ cHAUD DE RIS RIs D'AGNEAU DE D'AcNEAU -- Line Line the the sides sides and and bottom bottom of of aa buttered pdti mould (see DOUGH). paste pâté with Lining pas te (see mouldwith DOUGH). Coyer Cover the the inside inside of the the baking dish dish with with aa thick thick layer layer of of (see FORCEMEA Forcemeat àd la Forcemeat TS or la crème crime (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFrNGS). INGS). On this put aa layer of lambs'· On lambs'. sweetbreads sweetbreads half-cooked in in butter, slices of mushrooms lightly fried fried in in butter, and and thick thick slices of of truffies. slices trufres. Coyer with another Cover with another layer layer of of forcemear, forcemeaf another layer of sweetbreads, mushrooms and and truffies, and and finish with aa layer of forcemeat. forcemeat. pdti with aa piece of rolled-out pastry and Coyer Cover the pâté and seal seal the edges. Make Make an an opening in the pastry lid lid to allow steam steam to escape. escape. Decorate the to the top top with with small pastry decorations and brush and brush with with beaten beaten egg. egg. Bake in in aa moderate oyen for oven for 45 minutes 45 minutes to to 1I hour, hour, depending on on the the thickness thickness of of the pastry. Put pâté on Put the pdti on aa dish. dish. Through Through the the opening in in the the top (ser', SAUCE), pour in several tablespoons Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see fiavoured with truffies. flavoured trufres. Lambs' sweetbreads pilaf. pilaf. PILAf nur DE DE RIS Rrs D'AGNEAU -- Pre(see PILAF) replacing the pare like Chicken /iver pilaf pilaf(see Chickm liver the latter by lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads cooked by cooked in in butter which which have have been previously previously soaked in cold water and and blanched. Vol-au-vent of lrmbs' lambs' sweetbreads with Vol-auvent witr truftles trfles and mushVOL-AU-VENT DE DE RIS D'AGNEAU AUX rooms. voL-AU-vENT rtxrrnsl RIs D'AGNEAU Atrx TRUFFFS TRUFFES ET CHAMPIGNONS - Prepare Prepare the vol-au-vent case cHAMpIcNoNs c,ase (see VOL-AUthe vol-au-vent VENT). VENT). ragoût of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads braised braised in courtFill with a ragofrt (q.v.), together with sliced truffies and mushrooms bouillon (q.v.), and mushrooms sauce (see SAUCE). in very hot Allemande sauce Ragoûts of of lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads intended for filling vol-auvol-auRagofits similar dishes can be be cooked either in aa white white or vent cases vmt ep,ses or similar brown stock. brown truffies and mushrooms, these these ragofrts ragoûts cao In addition to trufles can

Lambs' Lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads Villeroi Villeroi on on skewers skewers (.Izroasse) (Larousse)

634

OFFAL skewers. In cool. cool. Slice and and thread thread the the pieces on on skewers. In between each piece put put a a slice slice of mushroom tossed in in butter butter and and aa

be supplemented with with various various ingredients ingredients such as quenelles, quemdle;s, be

combs and and kidneys, kidneys, brains brains in in large large dice, sliced sliced cocks' combs artichoke hearts, hearts, etc. etc. The The lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads must, must, of artichoke

square pieoe piece of bacon, lightly browned. butter Baste with butter butter and coat coat with breadcrumbs. Pour butter

course, be he the predominating predominating ingredient. ingredient. course, (lambs') torgues. LANcuEs LANGUES DE DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AcNEAU D'AGNEAU Sheep's (lembc) he prepared in various ways. First soak in cold -- These can be water and scald for skinning. Braised sheep's Qambs) (lambs') tongues ton gues with widl variore various garnishes. galrni!5hes. Brrts€d LANGUES DE MouroN, MOUTON, D'AGNEAU, nnlrsiss BRAISÉES - Braise Braise in a very LANGUES

grill slowly. over them and and grill Serve with Piquante sauce sauce made with with the braising braising stock SAUCE). of the tongues, or with Diable sauce (seo SAUCE). LANcLJES DE DE la vinaigrettc LANGUES Sheep's (tambs) tongues à la Sheep's in aa white MouroN, D'AGNEAU, A LA vm.lIcRETTE VINAIGRETTE - Cook in fresh head.Drarn Calf s head. stock, as as for Calfs Drain and skin. Garnish with fresh (se SAUCE), parsley. Serve with saace (see SAUCE), capers, with Vinaigrette sauce onions and chopped parsley.

!ittle stock. Arrange on a dish and surround with a suitable little

gamish. Pour the braising stock, boiled down and strained, garnish. over the dish. AlI garnishes indicated for Braised shoulder or rh of All mutton(see MUTTON, GARNISHES), are suitable. LANcuEs DE Sheep's Qambs) tongues en crdpinettes LANGUES MOUTON, D'AGNBAU, srv EN cnfprNnrrEs - Braise the the tongues tongues MouroN, in half, enclose and leave to cool in their their stock. Cut them in and (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or in Fine Fine pork stufing stuffing (see each half in each STUFFINGS) of pork caul. STUFFINGS) with trufres; wrap in a piece of Dip in in breadBaste the the crdpinettes wittr melted butter. Dip Baste (see sauce (see and grill slowly. Serve with Piriguanx Périgueux sauce crumbs, and SAUCE). sAUCE). DE MOUTON, MouroN, DeviUed sheep's sbeep's Qambs) tongues. LANGUES DE tongue* LANGUES Devilld and leave leave to DIABLE - Braise the the tongues and A LA ollnrr D'AGNEAU, À each half in hal[ half and spread each Cut them in cool in their stock. stock. Cut pepper. with mustard mustard seasoned cayenne pepper. with aa touch of cayenne touch of with seasoned with pour butter Baste with butter over Baste with butter. butter. Dip in breadcrumbs, pour (se SAUCE). them and grill slowly. Serve with Diable sauce (see SAUCE). them DE MOUTON, MouroN, Fritot of sheep's LANcuEs DE sheep's Qanbs) tongues. LANGUES D'AGNEAU, EN FRlTOT in FRrror -- Braise the tongues (or poach them in very Drain. Cut in their stock. stock. Drain. Leave to to cool cool in very Httle little liquid). liquid). Leave into thin slices, in aa marinade of for 1I hour hour in slices, and and steep them for oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt and p€pper. salt and Dip Garnish deepfry in in boiling fat. Gamish and deep-fry Dip in in light batter batter and with fried parsley. Serve with SAUCE). Toman sauce (se SAUCE). with Tomato fried parsley. Sheep's (lambs') (lembs) tongues au grath. LANGUES DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, au gratin. D'AGNEAU, in and cut cut them them in the tongues and D'AcNEAU, AU Au GRATIN GRATIN -- Braise the hal[ dish masked with with in an an ovenware lengthwise. Put them in ovenwar€ dish half lengthwise. (se SAUCE). Mornay half tongue with with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate each hal[ aa cooked mushroom. Coyer dust with sauce, dust Cover with Mornay sauce, breadcrumbs, slowly. melted butter; butter; brown brown slowly. on melted and pour on breadcnrmbs, and Sprinkle with chopped parsley. la LANcuEs DE DE tongues la hongroise. hongroise. LANGUES Sheep's Qambo) tougues noNcnolsp-- Half-cook Half-cook the tongues u, HONGROISE MouroN, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA (a oz., g. (4 100 g. oz., 1I cup) Drain; skin them. them. Cook Cook 100 in clear soup. Drain; Season with Put the tongues on top. Season chopped onions slowly. Put pint, and stew. dl. (t cover and stew. Moisten with 1lj dl. salt and paprika, coyer $ pint, 13 cup) down. cup) white wine. wine. Boil down. (se SAUCE). Moisten Velouti sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Moisten with rather thin thin Velouté with aa rather Coyer in aa deep deep dish. dish. tongues in cook. Pour sauce sauce over over tongues and cook. Cover and Sbeep's DE MOUTON, MouroN, l'italienne. LANGUES LANGUEII DE tongues ài l'italienne. Sheep's (lambs') [ambs') tongues D'AGNEAU, ltalian and simmer tn /talian Braise and simmer in D'AGNEAU, À A L'ITALIENNE I'ITALIrNNE - Braise sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Pickled (lanbs) tongues. DE MOUTON, MouroN, LANcuEs DE sheep's (lambs') tongues. LANGUES Picklcd sheep's D'AGNEAU, and put them them Wash the tongues, and o'lcNrlu, ÀA L'ÉCARLATE r'fcmr,lre -- Wash the tongues, in in for 33 or or 44 days. days. Cook in ox tangue, tongue, for in brine, as for for Pickled ox brine, as the way as as OK tongue. the same same way ox tongue. (esThese garnish (esany gamish hot with with any These tongues can he be served served hot tongues can green or or pecially with puree of or with with green lentils or or chestnuts), chestnuts), or with purée of lentils simmered. be simmered. which the the tongues tongues should should be red cabbage, in in which They having been after having been like ox They can cold, like ox tongue, tongue, after can be served served cold, coloured caramel. with carmine carmine or or caramel. coloured with Sheep's poulette. LANGUES DE LANcLJES DE la poulette. Sheep's Oambs') tongues à la Qanbs) tongues powsrrB -- Cook MOUTON in white white stock. stock. r,.l POULETTE Cook the the tongues in MouroN ÀA LA Drain (lambs') as indicated indicated for Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') Drain and and slice. Proceed as slice. Proceed trotters (see below). below). trotters àd la la poulette (see DE MOUTON, MouroN, LANGUES DE tongucs. LANGUES Skewered sheepts (lambs') Qambs') tongues. D'AGNEAU, to and leave leave to Braise the D'AGNEAU, EN BRocHETTEs -- Braise the tongues tongues and EN BROCHETTES

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D'AGNEAU (ambs) trotters. DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU PIEDS DE trotters PIEDS Sheep's (lambs') in the shops be bought in lambs'trotters, Sheep's or lambs' trotters, which can he and the little tufts be boned, boned, singed and already blanched, must he removed. of hair between the cleavage in the hoof removed. and proceed as light white white court-bouillon (q.v.) and Cook in aa light given recipe. in the given described in described DE MOUTON, MouroN, blanquette. PIEDS PtEDs DE trotters en en blanquette. Sheep's (lambs') Qambs) trotters as Sheep's This is is the BLANeLJETTEs - This the same same as EN BLANQUETTES D'AGNEAU, EN (lambs) trollers poulette (see below) below) to which, in addition trotters à d la poulette (lambs') cooked in aa veal or chicken chicken mushroonrs, small onions cooked to the mushrooms, consomm6 are added. consommé perigourdine. (lanbs) trotters la périgourdine. in crépinettes cr6pinettes à la trotten in Sheep's Oambs') pfnlpIEDs DE D'AGNEAU, EN EN CRÉPINETTES cRfprNrmrs ÀA LA PÉRIDE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU, PIEDS in their and allow allow to cool in their to cool couRDrNE - Braise Braise the the trotters trotters and GOURDINE half each each trotter between two two and drain. drain. Put Put hal[ braising stock and of minced truffied forcemeat. forcemeat. Wrap in pieces of layers of finely minced pork. Brush with melted melted pig's caul or paper-thin slices slices of of salt salt pork. gentle flame. grill under aa gentle flame. and grill dip in breadcrumbs and butter, dip juices in were braised, in which which the the trotters were Serve with the pan juices Serve glass of Madeira, strained, strained, and and wine glass of Madeira, with 1 wine boiled down down with boiled added. few diced diced truffles trufres added. with aa few

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DE cRoQuErrEs DE of sheep's (lambs) trotters. CROQUETTES Croquettes Croquettes of are prepared with with aa - These are (q.v.) of mixed with mushrooms mushrooms trotters mixed salpicon (q.v.) of sheep's sheep's trotters salpicon (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) with Allemande Allemande sauce and truffies, and bound bound with and trufles, and (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, IIol HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot like ordinary croquettes. croquettes. (See like

prEDs DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, D'AGNEAU PIEDS

hors-d'euvre.)

MouroN, PIEDs DE DE MOUTON, trotters. PIEDS Frid sheep's shcep's (lambs') Fried Qambs) trotters. in white white halved sheep's trotters trotters in Cook halved - Cook minutes for 30 30 minutes and dry. dry. Marinate for drain and court-bouillon (q.v.), drain court-bouillon pepper. parsley, salt and pepper. salt and in oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, oil, lemon in fat. and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. into batter and When needed, dip dip into When (see parsley. Serve Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato Serve with Garnish with with fried fried parsley. Gamish SAUCE). SAUCE). PIEDs DE DE l'ancienne. PIEDS trotters aa l'ancienne. Fried sbeep's sheep's (lambs') Fried Qambs) trotters the trotters trotters rrurs ÀA L'ANCIENNE Cook the L'ANCIENNE -- Cook MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, FRITS MOUTON, (q.v.), or DraiD, dry, drY, or braise braise them. them. Drain, in white white court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), in pounded layer of of finely finely pounded half with with aa layer and cover cover each each half split, split, and Put mixed with with chopped chopped truffies. trufres. Put forcemeat or stuffing (q.v.) mixed forcemeat or stuffing Wrap in in aa piece of of tightly. Wrap the the halves halves together, together, sandwiching tightly. pork. Leave to to pig's caul paper-thin sheet of of salt salt pork. caul or pig's or aa paper-thin with in batter and fry. fry. Serve Serve with required, dip dip in batter and marinate. When When required, marinate. D'AGNEAU, FRITS FRITS D'AGNEAU,

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(see SAUCE). sauce SAUCE). sauce (see

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DE MOUTON, PIEm DE la hongroise. MouroN, hongroise. PIEDS trotters à la Sheep's Qambs) trotters (lanbs') like Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') noNcnotsr -- Prepare Prepare like D'AGNEAU, D'AcNEAU, A LA r,l HONGROISE

(see below), poulette (see finely chopped chopped onion, onion, below), with with finely trotters trotters àd lala poulette paprika. with paprika. in butter, and seasoned seasoned with slightly butter, and slightly browned browned in PIEDS DE DE MOUTON, MouroN, trotters àI lala poulette. PIEDS Sheep's Sheep's Qambs) trotters pouurre -- Cook 250 cups) 250 g.g. (9 oz., oz.,3 3 cups) D'AGNEAU, i LA m POULETTE and cook cook Bone 12 12 trotters, split inin hali and sliced trotters, split sliced mushrooms. Bone (q.v.). Put pan with with into aa shallow shallow pan Put into in white court-bouillon in white court-bouillon (q.v.). white cup) white mushrooms. Add Add 44 tablespoons ct(} cup) the cooked mushrooms. the cooked stock (see stock of mushroom stock stock and the same amount of Add 33dl. dl. (!$ pint, lf STOCK). Boil down almost entirely. Add tablespoons (scant I cups) Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE) and 3,3,tablespoons cup) cream. Simmer for 5 to 6 minutes.

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OFFAL OFFAL Bind the the sauce sauce with with aa liaison liaison of yolks mixed of 33 or or 44 egg egg yolks mixed Bind (scant I or with 33or or 44 tablespoons tablespoons (scant;} or t{ cup) cup) eream. cream. Simmer Simmer the the with trotters but but do do not not boil. (scant * cup) boil. Add Add 33 tabJespoons tablespoons (seant! trotters ",rp) juice and butter, aa dash dash of of lemon lemon juiœ and 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped butter, parsley. Mix Mix weil. well. parsley. prEDs DE Sheep's (Iambs') hotters ài lala rouennaise rouennaise I.I. PrEDS DE Qambs) trotters Sheep's MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, ÀA LA re ROUENNAISE noueNNArsn -- Blanch Blanch the the trotters trotters MOUTON, whole and and braise good strong braise them in aa good them in strong stock. stock. Drain, Drain, and and whole remove ail all bones. bones. Fill Fill the the inside inside with with sausage sausage meat meat mixed mixed remove with 1I lightly lightly browned browned chopped chopped on onion, parsley chopped parsley with ion, chopped and the the stock stock left left over over from from the the braising, braising, boiled boiled down down and and and strained. strained. Dip the the trotters trotters in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Just Just before before Dip serving, deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling srzz,ling fat. fat. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley. fried parsley. serving, prEDs DE Sheep's (Iambs') trotters ài lala rouennaise rouennaise n. II. PIEDS DE flambs) trotters Sbeep's MouroN, D'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, À A LA r,c, ROUENNAISE nousNNArsn _.- Braise Braise the the trotters trotters MOUTON, and divide divide in in halves. halves. Sandwich Sandwich them them between between two layers of two layers of and prepard as stuffing or or forcerneat forcemeat prepared as described preceding described in in the the preceding stuffing recipe. Wrap pieces of Wrap in in pieces pig's cauJ of pig's paper-thin slîces caul or or paper-thin slices of of recipe. pork. Brush salt pork. Brush with with melted melted butter, roll in in breadcrumbs butter, roll breadcrumbs and and salt grill under under aa low low ftame. flame. grill prcos DE (lambs) trotters Sheep's (Iambs') trotters ài la la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIEDS DE MOUTON, MouroN, Sheep's D'AcNEAU, À r,c, VINAIGRETTI A LA vrNA,rcRETTE -- Cook Cook the the trotters in aa white white trotters in D'AGNEAU, (q.v.). Drain, court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain, and and bone bone them them completely. completely. court-bouillon Season while while hot hot with with oÎl, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt, pepper and salt, pepper and ônely finely Season chopped herbs. herbs. chopped (which is This salad salad (which is served as an served as an hors-d'œuvre) hors-d'euvre) is generally is generally This flavoured with with chopped chopped spring spring on onions. flavoured ions.

ears, arrange Drain the the ears, arrange on on aa serving dish and and garnish garnish as serving dish as Drain indicated inin the the recîpe. recipe. Boil Boil down down the the braising braising Iiquor, liquor, indicated pour over strain itit and and pour over the ears. the ears. strain poRc AU gratin OREILLES Pigso ears ears au au gratin. oRETLLEs DE DE PORC AU GRA GRATIN Braise Pigs' TIN -- Brajse in two the ears ears and and eut cut in lengthways. Put two lengthways. Put them into aa buttered them ioto buttered the oven-proof dish. dish. Surround Surround with with sliced mushrooms. Coyer sliced mushrooms. Cover oven-proof gratin sauce (made of with gralil/ (q.v.) and sauce (made of Duxelles Duxelles mixIure mixture (q.v.) and the the with liquor left left from from braising braising the the ears). ears). Sprinkle grated Sprinkle with with grated liquor breadcrumbs and and mehed melted butter. butter. Brown Brown the the top top slowly slowly in in the the breadcrumbs Before juice over oven. Bef serving squeeze squeeze aa few few drops drops of lemon juice of lemon over OTe serving oyen. the ears ears and and sprinkle sprinkle them them with with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. the poRc GRJLLÉES pigs' ears. Grined plgs' ean. OREILLES oRETLLES DE DE PORC cnrlr,fps - Boil Boil or or Grilled braise the ears and and cut the ears cut in in two lengthways. Coat two lengthways. Coat with with melted melted braise butter and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Spriokle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter and butter and butter grill gently. gently. Serve Serve with with aa well-spiced well-spicod sauce. sau@. grill pigs' ears Grilled pigs' generally accompanied ears are are generally accompanied by mashed by ma Grilled shed potatoes, served separa separately. pota toes, served tely. poRc pigs' ears Grilld pigs' ears Sainte-Menehould. Sainte-Menehould. OREILLES oRrrLLEs OF. DE PORC Grilled cnufns SAINTE-MENEHOULD sATNTE-MENEHouLD - Boil pigs' ears Boil the the pigs' ears in in aa GRILLÉES (q.v.), like spiced court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), like pigs' pigs' feet. feet. Drain Drain and and cool cool spiced press. Cut under aa press. Cut in in two, coat with two, coat melted butter with melted butter and and under breadcrumbs and and cook cook either grill or either under under the the grill or in in the the breadcrumbs oven. oyen. poRc À la hongroise. hongroise. OREILLES oRETLLEs DE DE PORC A LA ra HONGROISE noucnolsn Pigs' ears ài la pig's ears Boil the pig's ears as as described described above and cut into uniform -- Boil pieces. Melt Melt sOrne some butter butter in in aa sauté pan, soften (for 2 saut6 pan, soften in in itit (for pieces. (4 Ol., g. (4 ears) 100 g. oz.,l1 cup) diced diced onions, season with salt and and ears) paprika, and put in and put pig's ears. in the the pig's ears. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, for for 10 l0 paprika, minutes. Add (* cup) mushrooms cut in in large minutes. Add 44 tablespoons (t and tossed (f, pint, scant 2 tossed in in buller. butter. Moisten Moisten with 4 dl. dl. (l dice and (see SAUCE). cups) Velouté Veloutd sauce (see SAUCE). cups) Cook with with aa lid on for for 14 minutes. Before serving, serving, add add 3 Cook lid on (scant *t cup) tablespoons c,rp) butter. tablespoons (seant poRc FARcrEs pigs' ears Stufred pigs' oRETLLES DE PORC Stuffed ears. OREILLES FARCIES - Prepare Prepare like (see below). Calves' Calves' ears earS Villeroi Vil/eroi (see Pigs'feet Pigs' feet (hotters). (trotters). prEDs PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC - Tie the pig's feet two by and add by two, two, boil boil in in stock prepared prepared like like aa meat meat stock, and carrots, (q.v.). Drain, straighten carrots, onions and a bouquet garni (q.v.). by by placing placing between between two two thin thin boards tied tied with string, string, and cool cool under under a press. press. When When cold, cold, cut cut each each trotter trotter in two lengthways, brush with wÎth butter butter or or lard, lard, and and grill grill gently. gently. Pigs' Pîgs' feet feet are usually accompanied panied by by mashed mashed potatoes potatoes served separately. separately. Pigs' Pigs' feet feet can cao be be braised. braised. They They are are cooked cooked in in this this way way when they they are are intended intended for for preparing preparing a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) or or when when they are are used used as as an an element element of of various various garnishes. garnishes. They They can can also also be be prepared prepared in any way suitable suita ble for Calves' Calves' feel. feet. Pigs' Pigs' feet feet Sainte-Menehould. prEDs PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC sATNTESAINTEMENEHoULD MENEHOULD -- This This is is aa special special way way of of cooking cooking pigs' pîgs' feet feet to to obtain obtain aa particular particular softening softening of of the the bones bones so sa that that they they can be he easily easily crunched. crunched. Cook Cook the the feet feet very very slowly for for aa long long period. period. Brush Brush them them with with melted melted butter butter and and coat coat with with white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter or or lard lard and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen until with mashd mashed potatoes. potatoes. until golden. golden. Serve Serve with Trrffed Truffied pigs' pigs' feet feet I. J. preDs PI~OS DE DE poRc PORC rnurrrs TRUFFÉS - Cook Cook the the pigs' pigs' feet feet (either (either boil boll or or braise braise them) them) and and bone bone completely. completely. Cut Cut the the flestr flesh into into large large dice. dice. Mix Mix with with Fine Fine pork pork forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS) STUFFINGS) to to which which some sorne diced diced or or choppod chopped trufres truffles have have been been added. added. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and spices, spices, and and add add aa dastr dash ofbrandy. of brandy. Divide Divide into into 100-9. loo-g. (4-o2.,j (4-oz., ! cupful) eupful) parts parts and and shape shape them them into into crdpinettes crépinettes (q.v.), (q.v.), pointed pointed at al one one end. end. Put Put 22 or or 33 fine fine trufle on each each crdpinette crépinette and and wrap wrap in in aa piece piece of of pig's pig's truffie slices slices on caul. cau!. Brustr Brush with with melted melted butter, butter, coat coat with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grill grill gently. gently. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. pleDs Tnffed TruflIed pigs' pigs' feet fee' If. PIEDS DE DE poRc PORC rnur.rrs TRufFÉq -- Braise Braise the the

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poRc PORK OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. ABATS ABArs DE DE PORCPORK poRc - This part of the animal, Pig's bladder. bladder. VE.'>SIE vEssrE DE DE PORC Pig's - This part of the animal, after careful careful washing, washing, is is blown up and and dried, dried, and and then used after blown up then used pig's as aa casing casing for for big big sausages. sausages, and and for for wrapping lard. Pig's as wrapping lard. bladder also used used in for wrapping wrapping ducks ducks and and bladder is is also in the the kitchen kitchen for other chemise (see other poultry poultry prepared prepared m f!1I chemise (see DUCK). DUCK). poRc Pigs' brains cERVELLE DE Pigs' brains can be Pigs' brains. CERVELLE DE PORC -- Pigs' brains can be prepared any way for Ca/ves' Calves' brains. prepared in in any way suitable suitable for brains. poRc FUMÉE -Smoked Smoked pig's plg's cheek cheek (bath (batb chap). chap). JouE JOUE DE DE PORC rurvr6s This Smoked This part part of of the the animal animal is is much much prized prized in in England. England. Smoked pigs'cheeks pigs' cheeks (bath (bath chaps) chaps) are are boiled boiled in in water waler and and eaten eaten cold, cold, like like ham. ham. poRc Pigs' Pigs' ears. ears. oRETLLEs OREILLES DE DE PORC -- Pigs' Pigs' ears ears are are mainly mainly used used in preparation of of various various pork pork butchery butchery products, products, in the tbe preparation chiefly chiefly for for brawn brawn or or head head cheese. cheese. They They can can also also be he served served separately, separately, as as a a small small entrie. entrée. Boil Boil ina cauri-bouillon (q.v.) (q.v.) asfor as for Pigs'feet Pigs 'feet (see (see below), below), or or braise. braise. in a court-bouillon poRc BourLLrEs pigs' Boiled ears. oRETLLEs DE Singe the the Boiled pigs' ears. OREILLES DE PORC BOUILLIES -- Singe earso ears, clean c1ean the the inside ioside thoroughly thoroughly and and boil boil them them in in salted salted water, water, allowing allowing lf, Hteaspoons teaspoons salt salt per per litre litre (lf (lt pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) with with carrots, carrots, I1 onion onion studded studded with with a a clove clove and and aa garni (q.v.). bouquet gently Simmer bouquet garni (q.v.). Simmer gently for for about about 50 50 minutes. minutes. Drain indicated in Drain the the ears ears and and prepare prepare as asindicated in individual individual recipes. recipes. Having Having been heen boiled boiled in in this trus manner, manner, pigs' pigs' ears ears can can be be treated treated in in various various ways, ways, coated coated with with batter balter and and fried fried in in deep deep fat, fat, d à la la lyonnaise /yormaîse (cut (eut into into coarse coarse julienne julielUle strips strips and and fried fried . in in butter butter with with sliced sliced onions), onions), d à Ia la vinaigrette vinaigrelle (se (see below, below, Calf Calfss head), head), etc. etc. poRc Braised 8ralsed pigs' pigs' ears ears with wlth various varioll'li gamishes garrusbes. oRETLLEs OREILLES DE DE PORC snAlsfns BRAISÉES -- Singe Singe 44 pigs' pigs' ears ears and and clean c\ean the the inside inside thoroughty. thoroughly. Blanch Blanch for for 55 minutes minutes in in boiling boiling water. water. Drain Drain and and cut eut each each in in half half lengthways. lengthways. Lay Lay them them flat fiat in in aa buttered buttered saut6 sauté pan pan on on aa foundation foundation of of bacon bacon rinds rinds and and sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots. carrots. Put Put aa bouquet bouquet garni (q.v.) in middle the middle of of the the dish. dish. Cover Coyer and and cook cook on on garni (q.v.) in the top top of ofthe the stove. stove. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. ($ (! pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down completely, completely, add add 44 dl. dl. (f; (~ pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock stock and and finish finish cooking cooking in in the the oven, oyen, with a lid on, for 50 minutes. with a lid on, for 50 minutes.

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OFFAL Pig's Pig's lighb iil la la provengde. provençale. uou MOU DE DE PoRc PORC A À r,e LA nnovrNqlLr PROVENÇALE Cut the lights lights as as described deseribed above above and and fry fry in in oil. oil. Add Add 22 -- Cut

pigs' feet feet in in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-flavoured stock, stock, Leave Leave in in the the braising braising

until cold, cold, then then drain drain and and bone. bone. Cut Cut half half the the ffesh flesh into into liquor until as many many pieces pieces as as there there are are feet feet to to be be served. served. Chop Chop the the rest, rest, as mix with with Fine Fine tufied truffled forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or or mix STUFFINGS) and and add add the the braising braising liquor, liquor, boiled boiled down down and and STUFFINGS)

crushed and a a big big bouquet bouquet garni garni consisting consisting of of crushed garlic garlic cloves cloves and thyme, thyme, bay leat leaf, parsley parsley and and basil. basil. Dilute Dilute with 22 dl. dl. (} (~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white wine wine and and boil boil down. (-~ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) thickened thickened veal veal down. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. dl. ($ Tomato stock stock and and 88 dl. dl. (generous (generous l{ It pints, pints, lt pints) light light Tomalo sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for lj hours. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, trim trim them them and and put put into into another another casserole casserole Strain the with g. (9 (9 oz., oz., scant seant l+ It cups) cups) black black olives. olives. Strain the with 250 g. for 25 sauce over them and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for 25 minutes. minutes. When When serving, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. can chopped, can Fresh tomatoes, tomatoes, peeled, peeled, seeded seeded and and coarsely eoarsely chopped, sauce. be used used instead instead of of tomato tomato sauce. as aa used as Pig's Pig's liver. Iiver. FoIE FOIE DE DE PoRc PORC - Pig's Pig's liver liver is is mainly mainly used as pork such as charcuterie, such various charcuterie, for variou." forcemeat ingredient ingredient for (q.v.). It hot cookd in served hot also be It can can also and gayettes brawn and gayettes (q.v.). be served liver (see given for for Calfs Calfs /iver recipes given All the the recipes various variou.<; ways. ways. Ali are applicable applicable to below) are to it. it. DE (Provengale cookery). cAYETTES cookery). GA Pig's Iiver liver gayettes (Provençale Pig's YETTES DE poRc -- Cut 500 g. same (18 oz.) pig's liver liver and and the the same g. (18 oz.) pig's FoIE DE FOIE DE PORC (or pig into pig intestine fat) into intestine fat) (41 cups) fat bacon bacon (or fresh fat cups) fresh amount (4t amount garlic. Season pounded garlic. Season finely pounded cloves finely dice. Add Add 22 cloves very small dice. freshly salt, !I teaspoon teaspoon freshly tablespoon) salt, with 33 teaspoons teaspoons (l tablespoon) with Mix. spice. Mix. little spice. ground pepper and aa little (4-oz.) parts. Wrap each 100-9. (4-oz.) into lOO-go Divide this foreemeat forcemeat into (or fat pork), weil well softened in water. fat pork), caul (or in aa piece of pig's caul in string. Secure with string. few pan. Sprinkle with aa few Sprinkle with Put the the gayettes into a greased pan. Put The minutes. The 25 to 30 minutes. oven 25 to 30 the oven tablespoons of lard. Cook in the tablespoons an hors-d'œuvre. hors-teuvrecold as as an generally served served cold are generally gayettes are part of animal isis of the the animal This part PoRc -- This DE PORC Pig's snout. snout. GROIN cRoIN DE like cooked like also be be cooked It can can also brawn. Tt for preparing brawn. mainly used used for grilled and grilled (trotters), allowed cool and allowed to to cool ears or or Pigs'feet (trotter.s), Pigs' ears like trotters. trotters. part of viscera isis of the This part the viscera PoRc -- This DE PORC RATE DE spleen. RATE Pig's spleen. Pig's for in charcuterie charcaterie for mainly used used in It isis mainly in tas mediocre in taste. rather mediocre rather te. It making sausages. sausages. making can be be heart, can and the the heart, lungs and with the the lungs The spleen, together with spleen, together The made into into aa stew. stew. made or The hog's hog's stomach stomach or PoRc -- The DE PORC rsrorrrlc DE Pig's stomach. stomach. ESTOMAC Pig's has been been after itit has for making sausages, after paunch isis used used only only for paunch time' and cooked for aa long time. thoroughly and washed thoroughly washed grilled, as as are usually usually grilled, PoRc -- These These are DE PORC Pigs' tails. tails. QUEUES Pigs' euEUES DE (trotters). Pigs'feet Pigs' feet (trollers). in the the asdescribed described in Cook them them as clean the the tails. tails. Cook and c1ean Singe and Singe them. tostraighten straighten them. underaa press to Pigs' ears. ears. Cool Cool under recipe for forPigs' recipe gently. grill gently. and grill and breadcrumbs and butter and melted butter with melted Coat with Coat

strained. strained. Pork intestine. intestine. INTEsTIN INTESTfN DE DE PoRc PORC -- The The small smaU intestine, intestine, Pork known in in French French charcuterie charcuterie trade trade as as mmus menus or menuises, menuises, is is known used for for making making various various kinds kinds of of sausages sa usages and and black black used The caecum, caecum, which which is is also also called called sac sac or or poche poche in in puddlmgs. The puddings. used for for making making andouilles andouilles and other other sausages' sausages. French, is used The colon, colon, which which is is also also called called chaudin, chaudin, and the rectum, rectum, The which is is known known under under the the names names of rosette, rosette, boyan boyau gras gras or which fuseau, is is used used for for the the same purposes. purposes. fuseau, Pig's kidney. kidney. RocNoN ROGNON DE DE PoRc PORC -- Prepare Prepare in the same way Pig's as Calf Calfss kihey. kidney. as Pig's lighb Ugbts [ungs). (longs). Mou MOU DE DE nonc PORC (rornroN (POUMON DE ronc) PORC) -- The Pig's lights, or lungs, are not very substantial. They acquire pig's lights, garnish and and sauces sauces which a little nutritive value from the garnish accompany them. them. accompany by pork butchers in making pork pork pdtts pâtés de They are used by way as foie, and in the same way and in cookery for making stews in foie, Lamb's or Calf s pluck. Lamb's PoRc EN Mou DE PORC Ughts. MOU EN BLANQUETTE BLANQUETTE -Blanquette of pig's lights. in described in as described and cook cook as season and Cut the lights into pieces, season blanquette. the recipe for Tripe en blanquette. necotr -- Beat the PoRc EN EN RAGOÛT Ragoût of pig's lighb. MOU Mou DE PORC Rago0t into 40 40 to to 50-g. cut into and cut lungs to expel from them them and all air from expel aU lungs pieces. (2-oz.) pieces. lard, or lard, in butter and fry fry in butter or Season with salt and pepper and salt and Season with get weJl pieces get well browned. stirring frequently frequently so the pieces that all the so that in the the oven. Sprinkle with ftour slightly in let this this colour slightly and let flour and garlic and and aa little cru crushed Moisten shed garlic add aa liule stock, add white stock, Moisten with white bouquet garni (q.v.). and trirn the pieces, Cook in Drain and trim the l+ hours. hours. Drain to li in the oven oven 1I to Strain garnistr indicated. indicated. Strain put into another casserole with with the garnish 20 to to in the oven 20 the cook in the oven and cook cover, and over the the lights, cover, the sauce sauce over 30 30 minutes. ponc ÀI' LA LA BONNE BoNNE DE PORC Pig's Mou DE femme. MOU la borme bonne femme. Pig's lights ài la with salt salt pieces, season season with into pieces, (2* lb.) lb.) lights lights into I kg. kg.QL FEMME - Cut 1 lard. in butter or lard. butter or fry in and fry and pepper, and (3 tablespoons) moisten flour, moisten tablespoons) ftour, in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 Sprinkle in and water, and (2f pints, or water, pints, 3| pints) white white stock stock or l| litres litres (2~ with It garlic. clove of of garlic. add garni (q.v.\ and aa crushed crushed c10ve bouquet garni add aa bouquet lj hours. hours. Bring for It oven for in the the oven and cook in Bring to boil, and to the the boil, with put into casserole with Drain pieces, put into another another casserole and trim Drain and trim the the pieces, bacon, 12 oz., 77 slices) slices) bacon, 125 g.g. (4 oz., onions, 125 12 small, small, glazd onions, quartered (14 oz., potatoes, quartered 2t cups) lightly g. (14 cups) potatoes, 400 g. o2.,2{ and 400 lightly fried, and 25 to 30 or oven 25 to 30 the oven Cook inin the olives. Cook like large large olives. to look look Iike or cut cut to minutes. minutes. Pig's PoRc EN EN CIVET cIVET tvtou DE DE PORC in red red wine. wine. MOU or ID lights en en civet, civet or Pig's lights for (AU (.lu VIN in the the recipe for described in as described vn* ROUGE) noucn) -- Proceed Proceed as pints, Pig's with 1I ]jtre litre (l| pints, Moisten with Pig's lights lights àd la la bonne bonne femme. femrne. Moisten (scant pint, pint, 2] cups) generous cups) quart) red litre (scant wineand and I litre generous quart) red wine white 125 g. ($ oz., oz., 77 onions, 125 small glazed onions, white stock. Add small stock. Add slices) raw g. (4 o2.,2| cups) cups) raw and125 125 g. and fried fried bacon, bacon,and diced and slices) diced mushrooms, theoven oven cut into into quarters. Cook in the mushrooms, sliced or cut sliced or pig's for pint,seant cup) pig's scant cup) with 2 dl. Ü(* pint, minutes. Thicken Thicken with for 25 25 minutes. blood. blood. pig's Iigbts MÉNAGÈRE - I-,c,IuENlciRE DEPORC PoRC ÀALA Mou DE lighb ài lalaménagère. m6nagire. MOU Fry add 22big big When half-cooked, half-cooked, add orlard. lard. When Fry the lights lights in in butter butter or onions quarters. into quarters. cut into and 22carrots carrots cut onions and Moisten wine, boil boil pint, scant white wine, cup) wbite dl. (~$ pint, scant cup) Moisten with with 22 dl. (q.v.), ove, aabouquet garni (q.v.), garlic clclove, bouquetgarni add 1I crushed crushed garlic down, add and Cook water. Cook (2| pints, pints) white orwater. pints,3* white stock stockor 3|pints) and l| litres litres (2;Îinin the hour. for 1I hour. the oven ovenfor Add (500 9.,18 into cutinto l8 oz., cups), cut potatoes(500 oz.,33cups), Add 44 oror 55 potatoes quarters, minutes. for30 30minutes. quarters, and oven for cook inin theoven andleave leave ta tocook

potatoes. mashed potatoes. with mashed Serve with Serve garnishes. QUEUES pigs' tails variors garnishes. tails with with various QUEUES braisedpigs' Stuffeq braised Stuffed, poRc FARCIES, pigs' tatails completely Bone the the pigs' BRAIsfEs - - Bone FARcIES, BRAISÉES DE PORC DE ils eompletely nottototear tear care not long bags, bags, taking taking care as to obtain long wayas to obtain in such such aaway in forcemeat (see pork or or other other forcemeat with fine fine pork Stuff with the skin. skin. Stuff the truffied ifif desired. STUFFINGS), truffled or STUFFINGS), FORCEMEATS or FORCEMEATS liquid. little liquid. very Iiule and braise braise ininvery with string string and Securewith Secure with the the garnish andsurround surround with dishand Drain, put on a serving dish Drain, liquor,strain, strain, and pour braising liquor, indicated. Boil down the braising tails. over the thetails. over pot-roasted forsautéed, saut6ed, pot-roasted garnishes recommended recommended for All the thegamishes Ali (see portions are applicable (see areapplicable smallportions meatserved served ininsmaU orbraised braisedmeat or GARNISHES). GARNISHES). FARcIES, FoRcFARCIES, DEPORC tailsQUEUES Stuffed, gritled pigs'taUs. Stuffed, QUEUESDE above,oror described above, andbraise braiseasasdescribed tailsand cnrrriss - - Stuff thetails GRILLÉES underaa ears.Cool Coolunder forPigs' Pigs'ears. indicated for stockasasindicated cook them themininstock cook press. press. gratedbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs coatwith withgrated meltedbutter, butter,coat withmelted Brushwith Brush potatoes. mashed pVI.a.l~J"". gently.Serve withmashed Servewith and grillgently. and PoRc- - Pig's tongue can be preDEPORC LANcuEDE tongue. LANGUE Pigostongue.

637 637

OFFAL lightly ininbutter, butter,arrange arrange on onaadish, dish, and and finish finishoff offas described lightly as described above. above. Calves' brains braire inin noisette noisette butter. butter. CERVELLE cERvELLE DE DEVEAU AU vEAU AU Calves' BELJRRE NOISETTE NoISETTE - - Season Season and and fiour flour slices slicesof of brains, brains, brown brown BEURRE lightly inin butter, butter, arrange arrange on onaadish, dish, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped lightly parsley, add juice, and add aa dash dash of of lemon lemon juice, pour over and pour overaa few few parsley, tablespoons browned browned Noisette (see BUTTER, Noisette butter butter(see BUTTER, ComComtablespoons pound butters). butters'1. pound Fried calves' calves'brtirc l'rnglafus. CERVELLE cERVELIJ DE DE VEAU vEAU FRITE FRIrE Fried brains à| l'anglaise. L'eNGLLrsE -- Cut Cut cooked cooked brains brains in in slices slices and and marinate marinate for for ÀA L'ANGLAISE 25 minutes (3 tablespoons) minutes in in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) oil oil mixed mixed with with 25 juicq salt, lemon juice, pepper and salt, pepper and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. lemon Dip the the slices slices in in beaten beat€n egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, fry fry inin very very Dip hot fat, faL drain, drain, and and arrange arrange on plate with on aa plate with fried parsley. fried parsley. hot Serve with (ser-, SAUCE). with Tomato Tomato sauce souce (see SAUCE). Serve Calves' brains brsins fried fri€d in in batter. better. CERVELLE cERVELLE DE DE VEAU vEAU EN EN FRITOT FRrror Calves' (18 oz.) Boil 500 g. (18 500 g. oz.) calves' calves' brains in court-bouillon, brains in court-bouillon, cool cool -- Boil and cut cut in in squares. squares. Soak Soak for for 25 25 minutes minutes in in aa mixture mixture of of oil, oil, and juice, chopped lemon juice, chopped parsley, parsley, salt pepper. Dip salt and and pepper. Dip the lemon the pieces in in Frying (see BATTERS Frying batter batter VI VI (see BATTERS FOR FOR FR FRYING) pieces YING) and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with fine fine and salt. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish in in the pyramid and the shape shape ofa garnish of a pyramid and garnish salt. with fried parsley. Serve frid parsley. (se SAUCE). Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). with Fried calves' celves' brains provengde. CERVELLE braic ài la le provençale. crRvru; DE DE VEAU VEAU Fried pRovENgALE - Proceed s.lurfe ÀA LA r,.l PROVENÇALE described in in the the SAUTÉE - Proceed asas described recipe for fot Ca/ves' (see below), but instead Calves' brains brains àd l'italienne I'italienne (see recipe of using using !talian put sorne ltaliot sauce, sauce, put (see FONsome Tomato Tomato fondue of fondue (see DUE) in in the the middle middle of of the the dish. DUE) Garnish with with black black olives olives and and sprinkle with chopped sprinkle with Garnish tarragon. tarragon. Fried calves' calves' brains brains ài la la romaine. rcmaine. CERVELLE cERvELLB DE VEAU vEAU FRITE FRrrE Fried i LA r.n ROMAINE nor,rA,rNn -- Prepare the brains as described in the recipe À for Ca/ves' Calves' brains brains à d l'ang/aise. I'anglaise. for Arrange in in aa circle, circle, put some leaf leaf spinach spinach cooked cooked in Arrange put sorne butter the middle, middle, place butter in in the place I1 rolled ro11ed anchovy on each slice of brains, sprinkle with of Noisette brains, and and sprinkle with aa few few tablespoons of butter Compound butters\, (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters). butter (see Calves' Calves' braire brains au gretln gratin. cERvELLE CERVELLE DE DE VEAU VEAU AU AU cRATTN GRATIN Cook Cook slices slices of of calves' brains tn in court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), (q.v.), drain, coat coat wittl with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons Duxelles sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and place place in in aa fireproof fireproof dish. dish. Put Put a slice slice of of cooked cooked mushroom mushroom on on each. each. Cover Coyer with with duxelles sauce, sauce, sprinkle with with white white breadcrumbs crurnbs and and melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in in a a slow slow oven. oyen. Sp.rinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and add a a dash of lemon lemon Jluce. juice. Calves' Calves' brains brains ià lr la hongroise. hongroise. cERvELr-E CERVELLE os DE vslu VEAU A À r,A, LA HoNGRoISE Cut I1 pair pair of of cooked cooked brains brains into into slices. slices. Season Season HONGROISE -- Cut with with paprika, paprika, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour fiour and and fry fry lightly lightly in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa crovm crown on on crottons croùtons of of bread bread frid fried in in butter. butter. Put Put aa mixture mixture of of diced diced mushrooms, mushrooms, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and trufles, truffies, all aIl tossed tossed in in butter, butter, in in the the middle. middle. Top Top each each slice slice with with a a small small sliver sliver of of ham ham heated heated in in butter. butter. pour Pour some sorne Paprika Paprika sauce sauce (ser, (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Hungariot Hungarian sance) sauce) over over the the middle middle of of the the dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Calves' Calves' brsins brains Ià l'lndienne. l'indienne. oERvELTJ CERVELLE DE DE vEAU VEAU AÀ L'INDIENNB L'INDIENNE -- Cut Cut cooked cooked brains brains in in slices slices and and fry fry lightly lightly in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa crown crown with with some sorne Rice Rice dà I'indienne l'indienne (see (see RICE) RICE) and and cover coyer with with Curry Curry sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Calvect Calves'brrim brainsIàI'italieme. l'italienne.cERvELr.E CERVELLEDE DEVEAU VEAUAÀr'rrAltnNNr L'ITALIENNE Cut cooked cooked brains brains in in slices, slices, season, season, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour, fi our, -- Cut and and fry fry lightly lightly in in oil, oil, or or oil oil and and butter butter in in equal equal proportions. proportions. Arrange Arrange in in aa circle circle and and cover coyer with with Italiot !talian sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Calves' Calves'brair brainsininjelly. jelly.cERvELLE CERVELLEor DEvmu VEAUAÀu LAcBr,fo GELÉE-- Soak Soak 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) calves' calves' brains brains in in salted salted water water for for 55 minutes. minutes. Skin Skin them, them, and and cook cook with with 44dl. dl. (i(ipint, pint, scant scant 22 cups) cups)jellied jellied meat meatstock. stock.Boil Boilfor for55minutes, minutes,then thenleave leavetotocool coolininthe thepan. pan.

Pig's tongue in jelly Pig's Longue injelly

pared in any way suitable fot Calfs tongue (see below). pared in any way suitable for Calfs tongue (see helow). pickling in After pickling in brine brine itit can can he prepared as be prepared as Ox Ox tongue tongue aa After l'dcarlate. l'écar/ate. Pig's tongue tongue is is also also used used as as an an ingredient ingredient for potted heads for potted heads Pig's (head cheese) and head brawn. (head cheese) and head brawn.

VEAL

OFFAL OR OR VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. ABATS esrrs DE DE VEAUvEAU VEAL OFFAL Veel amourette. AMOURETTE AMouRETTE DE DE VEAU VBAU -- This This isis calf's calf's Veal amourette. spinal marrow. marrow. Calf's Calf's amourette an ourette is principally used; is principa11y used; that that of of spinal (beef) more rarely. oxen (beef) oxen more rarely. This substance has great similarity has aa very very great similarity to to brains. brains. It It This substance must b soaked in cold water and all membranes covering must he soaked in cold water and aU membranes covering it removed removod before preparing it. it before preparing it. After careful washing, washing, boil (q.v.), then boil it it in in court-bouillon court-bouilloz (q.v.), then After careful follow any of of the the recipes recipes given given for (see below). for Ca/ves' Calves' brains brains (see follow any below). The arnourette, clut into little pieces and cooked in courltThe amourette, cut into little pieces and cooked in courtbouillon, can he be used as aa garnish dishes, raised raised pies, used as garnish for for pie pie dishes, pies, Douillon, can vol-au-vent and other similar dishes. It can also be served as vo/-au-vent and other similar dishes. It can also he served as hors-d ouvre, with oil and vinegar dressing, or with mayonhors-d'œuvre, with oil and vinegar dressing, or with mayonnaise. naise. Calves'braim. Calves' brains. cERvELLE CERVELLE DE DE VEAU VEAU - 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) calves' calves' brains Soak the the brains brains in in cold cold water water for for I1 brains serves serves 4 4 people. people. Soak hour. skin and hour. Remove Remove the the skin and any any traces traces of of blood. blood. Unless U nless otherwise otherwise specified specified in in a a particular particular qecipe, J:ecipe, simmer simmer them them (do (do not not boil) boil) rn in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon III III (see (see COURT-BOUILLON), COURT-BOUILLON), which to I tablespoon to which 1 tablespoon of of vinegar vinegar has has been been added, added, for for 15 15 to to 20 minutes. Drain, plunge in very cold water, and allow to 20 minutes. Drain, plunge in very cold water, and a110w to cqol. cool. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Follow Fo11ow succeeding succeeding recipes recipes for for final final preparation. preparation. Celves' brric i I'dlemande. Calves' brains à l'allemande. csnvElr,s CERVELLE os DE vEAu VEAU A À r' L' ALLEMANDE- Cook the brains in court-bouillon as above and ALLEMANDE - Cook the brains in court-bouillon as a bove and drain. drain. Cut Cut into into 33 or or 44 uniform unifonn slices slices and and dip dip in in flour. fiour. Saut6 Sauté the the slicc slices in in butter butter until until browned. browned. Arrange Arrange on on cro0tons croûtons of of bread fried in butteq and bread fried in butter, and cover coyer with with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Calves'brains Calves' brains Ià la la bourguignmne. bourguignonne. cERvELLE CERVELLE on DE veAu VEAU A À ra LA BouRGrncNoNNE - Proceed as described in the recipe for BOURGUIGNONNE - Proceed as described in the recipe for Calves' braiw d I'allemande but use Bourguigrnnne sauce Ca/ves' brains à l'allemande but use Bourguignonne sauce instead instead of ofAllemande Allemande (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). AA Bourguignonne Bourguignonne garnish garnish can can also also be he added added (see (see GARNGARNrsHEs). ISHES). Cdves' braim fu browned butter Calves' brains in browned buUer f.J. cenvsu.E CERVELLE DE DE vEAU VEAU AU AU BELTRnE NorR - Cook the brains in court-bouillon (q.v.), drain BEURRE NOIR - Cook the brains in court-bouillon (q.v.), drain

and and cut cut into into slices. slices. Arrange Arrange them them on on aa dish, dish, season, season, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with 33 to to 44 tablespoons tablespoons ({(t cup) cup) butter, butter, browned browned in in aa shallow pan. Add I tablespoon chopped parsley, sha110w pan. Add 1. tablespoon chopped pa rs 1ey, and and aa dash of vinegar heated in the same pan after the butter has dash of vinegar heated in the same pan after the butter has been poured off. been poured off.

Celves' in browned browned butter butter II. II. crnvnrr"u CERVELLE DE DE vEAU VEAU Calves' breim brains in BBT RRE NorR - Season and flour slices of brains. Fry them Season and fiour slices of brains. Fry them

AU

AU BEURRE NOIR -

638 638

OFFAL OFFAL Drain Drain them, them, put put each each on on aa little !ittle Anta Anna potato calce cake (see (see POTATOES), POT ATOES), and and garnish gamish with with 44 lettuce lettuce hearts braised braised in in

Drain Drain the the brains, brains, divide divide in in halves, halves, dry, dry, put put into into aa dish dish and and

pour pour over over the the pan pan juices, juices, clarified c1arified and and strained strained through through aa

juices, remove juice. Strain the thejuice. Strain the the pan panjuices, remove surplus surplus fat, fat, pour pour over over the the ears ears and and serve. serve. Fried ears I. I. oREILLES OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU FRITES FRITES -- Cook Cook the the Fried calves' calves' ears ears ears as as described described in in the the recipe for for Calves' Calves' ears ears braised braised dà la la mirepoix, mirepoix, drain, drain, cool, cool, divide into into uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, dip dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. Arrange Arrange in in a a pyramid, pyramid, decorate decorate with with frid fried parsley parsley and and juices, serve serve with with the the pan pan juices, strained strained and and finished finished off off as as Diable Diable or or Piquante sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Fried calves' calves' eans ears II. lI. oREILLES OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU FRrrEs FRITES - Cut Cut the the ears ears into into strips, strips, leave leave to to soak soak in in batter batter and and finish finish off off as as described above. above. Fried Fried calves' ears ears III. ru. oREILLES OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU EN EN FRIToI FRITOT - Cook Cook the ears ears in in a a flour-and-water fiour-and-water stock. stock. Drain Drain and and wipe them' them. Cut Cut each each into into 8 8 or or 10 10 pieces pieces of of regular shape and size. size. Marinate Marinate for for 30 30 minutes minutes with with oil, oil, lemon juice, chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Dip Dip in in a a light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat. fat. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with SAUCE). Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). Grilld Grilled calves'ean calves' ears Ià la la diable. diable. oREILLES OREILLES DE DE vBAU VEAU cruLdss GRILLÉES A À r,l LA nrABE DIABLE - Cut Cut the the braised braised ears ears in in two two lengthways, lengthways, put put spread with them them under aa press press for for aa few few moments, moments, spread with mustard, mustard, sprinkle with with melted melted butter, butter, dust dust with with white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs Serve with under aa gentle sides under and cook cook on on both both sides gentle grill. grill. Serve with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Diable Diable sauce (see noNla hongroise. hongroise. oREILLES Calves' ears IlI la OREILLES DE DE vEAU VEAU A À LA HONcourt'bouillon in aa fiour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon ears in the ears cRoIsE GROISE - Cook the put them into aa (q.v.), cut and put into unifonn uniform pieces cut them them into (g.v.), pieces and them into (4 oz., diced onions onions finely dioed pan in 100 g. (4 oz.,l1 cup) finely in which which 100 saute pan sauté paprika, have been (for every 22 ears), seasoned with salt and paprika, with salt (for have been l0 minutes. minutes. Add Add 4'$ ears for for 10 the ears Stew the cooked in butter. butter. Stew cooked (* cup) and dice and into large large dice mushrooms cut cut into cup) mushrooms tablespoons (t tablespoons ping scant cups) scant 22 cups) in 44 dl. dl. Ci in butter. Stir in butter. Stir lightly cooked in e pint, (se SAUCE). Cook, SAUCE). Cook, sauce (see Bdchamel sauce or Béchamel thin Velouti or (scant Add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant 15 minutes. minutes. Add about 15 covered, for for about covered, cup) butter. DE VEAU VEAU À A L'INDIENNE L'INpISNNE oREILLES DE l'indienne. OREILLES ears ài l'indienne. Calves' ears (q.v.). Cut into Cut into court-bouillon (g.v.). in fl.our-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon Cook in Cook (see below). below). d l'indienne l'indienne (see hke Calves' Calves' feet à and treat squares and treat like DE VEAU vEAU À A L'ITALIENNEL'Itlt,Int.rttrs oREILLES DE I'italienne. OREILLES Catves' ears errs IlI J'italienne. in the recipe described in the recipe as described 'Prepare and calves'ears and cook cook the the calves' 'Prepare ears as instead of of slitting slitting but instead la mirepoix, mirepoix, but ears braised braised àd la for Ca/ves' Calves' ears for and dress dress the the end, and round off off the the end, to round cut the the tendons tendons to them, cut them, and calf's calf's mushrooms and mixture of of trufiles, trufles, mushrooms inside with with aa mixture inside (3 with 22 tablespoons (3 and bound bound with small, and tongue cut up very small, (see SAUCE). the sauce (see SAUCE). Briqg the Financiire sauce tablespoons) thick Fifl'an,~iél'I' sauce.' (From an ltalian ltaliot sauce.' with an and serve serve with boil and whole to to the boil whole and Plumerey.) Plumerey.) Car0me and Carême ToRTTJE DE VEAU vEAU EN EN TORTUE oREILLES DE en tortue. tortue. OREILLES €ars en Catves' ears Calves' ears for Ca/ves' Calves' ears in the the recipe for described in ears as as described the ears Cook the Cook by wine by white wine replacing the white but replacing Ia mirepoix mireporx but braised àd la braised Madeira. Madeira. with the the and surround surround with fried croûtons, cro0tons, and arrange on on fried Drain, arrange Drain, juices, pan juices, (see GARNISHES). Strain the pan Strain the garnish en en tortue tortue (see gamish (see Tortue sauce sauce (see for Tortue as described for and finish finish as fat, and skim off off fat, skim and serve. dish and serve. over the the dish Pour over SAUCE). Pour FARcIES DE VEAU VEAU FARCIES oRBLLES DE en tortue. tortue. OREILLES shffed en Calves' ears ears stuffed part cook in aa fiou'r-andfloui-andcook in and part ears and Soak the the ears EN TORTUE ToRTTJE - Soak EN (se below). below). head (see as for for Calfs Calf s head water court-bouillon as wa ter court-bouillon half Fine Fine of one one half forcemeat composed of with aa forcemeat Stuff them them with Stuff (s@ FORCEFORCEhalf Veal forcemeat (see pork forcemeat and one one half forcemeatand of diced diced addition of MEATS or or STUFFINGS) with the addition eggs. whole bound bound with eggs. the whole truffies, the truffies, braising Madeira-flavoured braising in aa Madeira-fl.avoured ears in Finish cooking cooking the the ears Finish (see below). below). en tortue tortue (see for Calfs head en asfor Calfs head off as Finish off stock. Finish stock. vILLERoI -- Cook Cook DE VEAU vEAU VILLEROI Villeroi. OREILLES oREILLEs DE ears Villeroi. Calved ears Calves'

napkin. Put Put on on ice ice to to set. set. napkin. Cold jellied cdves' calves' brains brains. cERVELLE CERVELLE DE DE vEAU VEAU EN EN cHATJDCHAUDCoH FRoID FROID -- Cook 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) calves' calves' brains brains as as described described in in the recipe recipe for Calves' Ca/ves' brains brains in in ielly. jelly. Leave Leave to to cool cool in in the the the liguid in in which which they they were were boiled. boiled. As As soon soon as as they they are are quite guite liquid cold, drain, drain, divide divide in in halves, halves, dry without without damaging damaging them, them, cold, coat them them with with White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). and coat Cold jellted jellied calves' breins brains Iil la la parisienne. parisienne. cBRvELLE CERVELLE DE DE CoH

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VEAU EN EN cHAuD-FRon CHAUD-FROID A À r.l, LA PARIsIENNE PARISIENNE - Prepare the the brains brains VEAU

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as described in in the the preceeding preceeding recipe recipe and garnish gamish with with as

Parisian salad salad (see (see SALAD). SALAD). Parisian Calves' Calves' brain brains loaf il I'ancienre. J'ancienne. PAIN PAIN DE DE cERvELIT CERVELLE DE DE À L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Cook 500 500 g. (18 (18 oz.) calves' brains brains in VEAU A vulu butter. Add Add 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., * cup) butter butter and and 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., butter. Frangipane panada panada (see PANADA) and pound pound in in a *1 cup) Frangipane mortar. pepper and ground ground nutmeg and and add two Season with salt, pepper pounding well weil to achieve achieve a smooth smooth mixture. mixture. eggs, pounding Pass through through a fine sieve, sieve, blend with with a spoon, spoon, and put into into a buttered mould. Cook in a pan of of hot water, ot or m in a bainmarie 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes in the the oven. oyen. Leave for for 5 minutes marie before turning out. and surround dish and Put Put the the loaf on on aa dish surround with with mushrooms cooked in in Court-bouillon IX (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). cooked Court-bouillon IX (see (* pin! scant cup) crup) Allmtande Pour 2 dl. dl. (t pint, scant Allemande sauce sauce (see Pour over over 2 SAUCE), and decorate with 12 slivers of truffies. MATELoTE cERVELLE DE vEAU matelote. CERVELLE Calves' brain Calves' brains en matelote. VEAU EN MATELOTE (generous l{ pints, calves'brains -- Boil500 Boil 500 g. (18 oz.) calves' brains in 8 dl. (generous with red wine ,OU,rl-lWUllLO.n with wine (XIV) (see COURT1| pints) Court-bouillon put into into a in thick slices and put Drain, cut cut in thick slices BOUILLON). Drain, glazd onions 24 small pan with and 24 24 small onions and small glazed with 24 shallow shallow pan in butter. mushrooms fried fried in court-bouillonby Boil down by half, blend in 50 g. (2 oz., down the the court-bouillon 1 (see BUTTER, BUTTEF., Compound butters), Kneaded butter butter (see '4 cup) Kneaded and pour over the strain, and the brains. with Garnish with few moments without boiling. Gamish Simmer for aa few frid in in butter. bread fried heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons crottons of bread or VEAU vrlu ÀA LA la poulette. CERVELLE cERvELLE DE CaJves' Celves' brains brains à la pouI,ErrE -- Cut the cooked brains into thick slices and cook slices and POULETIE in Poulette boil, in to boil, moments, without without allowing to for aa few few moments, for (se SAUCE). Heap in in aa shallow shallow platter. sauce (see Cook aa FARcE DE DE CERVELLE cERvELTJ -- Cook stuffing or or forccmeal FARCE Brain stuffing and rub rub through aa Drain, and in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). Drain, brain brain in According saucepan. f\OcorOlnlg Heat the fine fine sieve. the pur6e in a double saucepan. sieve. Heat Btchamel or or cream, Béchamel little butter, butter, cream, recipe used, to used, add aa liule to the the recipe (s* SAUCE). Velouté sauce (see SAUCE). Velouti sauce or tarts or vol-au-vent, tarts fill sm small to fi.!l This stuffing stuffing is is used used to This ail vol-au-vent, etc. tartlets, barquettes, etc. tartlets, barquettes, DE VEAU vEAU oneil-Ln DE la mirepoix. OREILLE Calves' braised à la ean braised Crlves' ears ears for for 88 calves' ears Ir,tnrpox - Blanch four calves' BRAISÉES A LA MIREPOIX sRArsEEs À and dry and drain, trim, trim, dry cold water, drain, in co minutes. Id water, minutes. Cool Cool them thern in inside. thoroughly clean the the inside. thoroughly clean pint, scant cup) scant cup) dl. (* pint, cover with with 22 dl. Put saucepan, coyer into aa saucepan, Put into with salt salt (q.v.), add season with mirepoix add aa bouquet garni (q.v.), season mirepoix -peppei, white cup) white scant 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant and and pepper, add 1I dl. + cup) wine and cook cook to to thicken. thicken. wine and veal brown veal thickened brown pint, li l| cups) cups) slightly slightly thickened Add Add 33 dl. dl. (tG pint, l! hours. hours. for Il with aa !id lid on on for oven with stock in the and cook cook in the oyen stock and thin covers the the thin which covers remove skin which Drain ove the the skin Drain the the ears, ears, rem aid of spoon' of aa spoon. with the the aid part of outside with part and the the outside inside and of the the inside part fiat it. Beat and sHt slit it. Beat this flat and this part in butter. butter. fried in bread fried cro0tons of of bread Arrange on croûtons ears on Arrange the the ears pour over dish. over dish. pan juices, remove fat, and and pour Strain Strain panjuices, remove surplus fat, DE VEAU VEAU oREILLES DE Braised calves' Braised calves' ears eors Mount-Bry. OREILLES in the the described in as described ears as BRAISÉES Cook the the ears sRAIsfEs MONT-BRY MoNT-BRY - Cook mirepoix. h mirepoix. ears braised braised àd la recipc for Ca/ves' recipe for Calves' ears

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639 639

OFFAL OFFAL the ears as described therecipe recipefor forCalves' Calves'ears earsbraised braisedàd the ears as described ininthe la mirepoix and drain. la mirepoix and drain. Trim, fill the inside with a finely poundd Chicken forceTrim, fill the inside with a finely pounded Chicken forcemeat (s@ FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS), dip in Villeroi meat (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS), dip in Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE), breadcrumbs,and andfry. fry. en ininbreadcrumbs, sauce (see SAUCE), ththen Arrange onaaplate plate with fried parsley and serve with Arrange on with fried parsley and serve with Tomato or Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). Tomato or Périgueux sauce (see SAUCE).

Calves'feet (Nicolas)

Calves' fee! (Nicolas)

Calves' feet. preos DE vEAU - Soak the feet in cold water, Calves' feet. PIEDS DE VEAU - Soak the feet in cold water, bone and blanch them, cook in a court-bouillon as for Catf s bone and blanch them, cook in a court-bouillon as for Calfs head (see below). head (see below). Cut into pieces, marinate for I hour in oil, lemon juice,

Cut into pieces, marinate for 1 hour in oil, lemon juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper, dip in a light battei and chopped parsley, salt and pepper, dip in a light batter and deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. deep-fry All the recipes given Calfs head head can can be be used used for for AU the recipes given for for Calfs Calves'feet. Calves' feet. prEDs feet ià I'indienne. Calves' A L'TNDTENNE Calves' feet l'indienne. PIEDS DE DE vrnu VEAU À L'INDIENNE -Cook for Calves'feel and serve (see I'indienne (see Cook as as for Calves' feet and serve with with Rrce Rice àd l'indienne RICE), the covered feet with (see Curry sauce SAUCE). RICE), the feet covered with Curry sauce (see SAUCE). prEDs Calves' Calves' feet feet Ià l'italienne. l'italienne. PIEDS DE DE vrlu VEAU A À L'TTALTENNE L'ITALIENNE -Cut cooked calves' feet into Cut cooked ca Ives' feet into uniform uniform pieces pieces and and put put into into (see Itolian Italian sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). prEDs DE vEAU A LA TARTARE Calves' feet with tartare sauce. Calves' feet with tartare sauce. PIEDS DE VEAU À LA TARTARE -- Cut Cut into into uniforrn uniform pieces, pieces, dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, deep-fry SAIJCE, Cold deep-fry and and serve serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, Cold sauces). sauces). prEDs Calved Calves' feet feet ià la la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIEDS DE DE vE.lu VEAU A Àm LA vmlrcRETTE VINAIGRETTE -- Prepare Prepare like like Calf Calfss head head in in oil oil (se (see below). below). Calfs DE VEAU -- Calf's Calf's head. head. 16rr TÊTE DE vEAU Calf's head head should should be be boned boned and and soaked soaked for for aa long long time time in in cold cold water, water, then then blanched. blanched, cooled, cooled, and and cut cut into into pieces, pieces, or or -- depending depending on on the the method method of of preparation - it can be left whole. Then it is cooked in a preparation - it can be left whole. Then it is cooked in a White White court-bouillon court-bouillon (see (see below). below). When When calf's calf's head head is is being being cooked cooked dà I'anglaise l'anglaise itit does does not not have have to to be be boned. boned. After After aa long Jong soaking soaking and and blanching, blanching, itit isis cooked in the white court-bouillon. cooked in the white court-bouillon. It It should should always always be be served with the tongue cut in in slices, slices, and and the the brain. brain, cooked cooked served with the tongue cut separately separately in in white white court-bouillon court-bouillon and and sliced. sliced. The The brain brain can can also also be be pounded pounded and and blended blended with with aa cold cold sauce. sauce. White court-bouillon s head. White court-bouillonfor for calf calfs head. Mx Mix flour Hour with with cold cold water, tablespoonper perlitre litre(l$ (Il-pints, pints, generous generous water, using using I1heaped heaped tablespoon quart) quart) water, water, until until smooth. smooth. Pass Pass this this mixture mixture through through aa fine fine strainer. strainer. Pour Pourinto intoaa saucepan, sauce pan, big bigenough enough to to take take tle the head, head, either eitherwhole whole or ordivided divided in in halves, halves, or orcut cut into into pieces. pieces. Season Season *t^th with I1teaspoon teaspoon salt salt and and add add I1tablespoon tablespoon vinegar vinegar per per litre litre (If; (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water, water. Bring Bring to to the the boil. boil. Add Add I 1 large large onion onion studded studded with with two two cloves, cloyes; and and aa bouquet bouquet garni garni

consistingofofparsley, parsley,thyme thymeand anda abay leaf.When bayleaf. Whenthis thisstock stock consisting

putininthe boiling,put thecalf's calf'shehead wrappedinina afine finemuslin muslin isisboiling, ad wrapped

cloth. clotho Add250 250g.g.(9(9oz., generous22cups) oz.,generous (orveal) cups)beef beef(or veal)fat, Add fat, choppedand andsoaked soakedininco cold water.This Thisfat, fat,upon uponmelting, melting, chopped Id water. willform formaaprotective protectivelayer layerover overthe calf'shead headand thecalf's andwill will will preventititfrom fromgoing goingblack. black. prevent Calfs head headài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. TÊTE rtreDEneVEAU vreuÀAL'ANGLAISE L'Ar.rcLArsE- Calf's Cook the thecalf's calf'shead headininaawhite white court-bouillon (seeCalfs court-bouillon (see Calf s Cook heaQ, whole wholeororsplit splitininhalf, half,but butwithout without boning. boning. head), Arrange the head on the head onaadish dishand andserve servewith withaapiece pieceof Arrange of boiledbacon baconand andParsley (seeSAUCE). Parsleysauce sauce(see SAUCE). boiled Calfs head headàI lalabonne bonnefemme. femme. TÊTE r6re DE osVEAU vnc,uÀALA LABONNE BoNNE Calf's FEMME- - Boil Boil the calf's head theealf's headininaa white whitecourt-bouillon court-bouillon (see (see FEMME Calf shead) head)cut elutinto into uniform piecesand uniform pieces andsimmer simmergently gently ininaa Calfs Demi-glacesauce (seeSAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) with piecesof with pieces of bacon, bacon,lightly Demi-glace lightly glazd mushrooms, browned inin butter, butter, glazed mushrooms,olives olives and andsmall browned Jmail onions. Heap Heap on on aadish. dish. onions. Calfos head head Caillou. Caillou TÊTE rBrr DE oE VEAU vEAU CAILLOU cArLLou - - For Calf's For 66 persons, cook cook half half aa blanched blanchd calf's calf's head, head, cut cut into into 66 pieces, pieces, persons, and half half the the calf's calf's tongue tongue in in aa large large saucepan. saucepan.The The head and head should only only be be three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, the the final final cooking should cooking place in taking place in the the sa sauce. taking uce. Fry 1I large large chopped chopped onion onion in in 33 tablespoons (scant t* cup) tablespoons (seant _ Fry butter without without allowing allowing itit to to brown, brown, adding adding 50 butter oz., S0 g.g. (2 oi., e "up) c.rp) lean lean smoked smokod ham ham cut cut into into little pieces. Sprinkle little pieces. Sprintie inin 44 t* cup) (* cup) tablespoons (t cup) flour, flour, brown brown lightly, lightly, blend blend with tablespoons with 55 dl. dl. (scant pint, pint, 2t 2t cups) cups) stock. stock. Add Add 22 tablespoons (3 table(scant tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Tomato Tomato sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), aa bouquet garni (q.v.) (q.v.) bouquet garni spoons) consistingof parsley, 1I small sprigs parsley, small clove garlic, 1I sprig clove of consisting of 22 sprigs of garlic, sprig of thyme, thyme, tI bay bay leaf leaf and and 1I stalk stalk of of celery. celery. Mix Mix weil of well and and cook cbof for 20 20 minutes. minutes. for Put the the calf's calf's head head and and the the ton tongue, cut into into 66 slices, Put gue, cut slices, into into pan, add saut6 pan, peeled chestnuts, add 48 48 peeled chestnuts, half-cooked half-cooked in aa sauté in conconsomm6, 48 large, stoned 48 large, stoned olives, olives, and and,12 sommé, 12 mushrooms, mushrooms, skinned skinned and washed washed with with the the stalks stalks removed. removed. Add (6 tableand Add 1I dl. dl. (6 tablescant + cup) Madeira. Simmer Simmer for spoons, scant! for 10 l0 minutes. Coyer Cover with the strained strained sauce sauce and and cook under aa !id lid for 35 with 35 minutes. Aqange the the calf's calf's head head and and the Arrange the chestnuts chestnuts on on aa large shallow dish. Garnish with little escalopes of brains shaUow brains dipped dippJd in slightly beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and fried fried in in slightly in butter, and with cro0tons fried fried in butter. and with heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons Calfs cr6pinettes TÊTE rBrs os Calf's head in crépinettes. DE VEAU EN EN CRÉPINETTES cnfplr.iErrss -(18 oz.) of calf's head Cut Cut 500 g. g. (18 head cooked in aa white white courtbouillon (see (see Calf Calf'ss head) into pieces. Add to this { its weight in in diced diced mushrooms lightly lightly fried fried in in butter, butter, and and 44 tablespoons spoons diced diced truffies. truffies. Blend Blend with Madeira sauce sauce (see vith Madeira (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on truffie truffie essence essence and and boiled boiled down. Add some sorne diced calf's tongue ton gue and brain. brain. Allow to cool. Divide Divide this trus mixture mixture into into parts parts of of 50 50 g. g. e (2 oz) oz.) each. each. Enclose Enclose each each of of these these in 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *t cup) finelyfinelyminced Pork forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFSTUFFminced Pork INGS). INGS). Roll Roll each each into into the the shape shape of of aa flat Hat sausage, sausage, and wrap wrap in in aa piece piece of of caul, caul, cut cut paper-thin, paper-thin, moistened moistened with with cold cold watei. water. Smear Smear with with melted melted butter, butter, roll roll in in white white breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and grill grill under under aa gentle gentle flame. Hame. Serve Serve with with Pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or with with any any other other sauce sauce recommended recommended for for grilld grilled meats. meats. Calfs Calf's head head tà la la financilre. financière. rErs TÊTE or DE vnA,u VEAU A À r-e LA rN,tNcriRE FINANCIÈRECut Cut the the head, head, boiled boiled in in aa white white court-bouillon court-bouillon (see (see Calfs Calfs head) head) and and well well drained, drained, into into 2-inch 2-inch pieces. pieces. Stew Stew in in Madeira. Madeira. Arrange Arrange in in a a dish. dish. Cover Coyer tvirth with Financiire Financière garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES), GARNISHES), to to which which pieces pieces of of sliced s!iced or or diced diced calf's calf's tongue, tongue, and and brain brain sliced sliced into into escalopes, escalopes, have have been been added. added. Fried Fried calfs calf's head. head. rf;rp TÊTE DE DE vEAU VEAU FRrrE FRITE -- Cut Cut the the head head into into square square pieces. pieces. Marinate Marinate for for I1hour hour in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Dip Dip the the pieces pieces into into aa light light batter batter (see (see BATTER) BATTER) and and deep-fry deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. fat.

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OFFAL (see Calfs into head) and and cut cut into Calfs head) court-bouillon (see Boil in a white court-bouillon recipe for for Sheep's Sheep's in the described in the recipe little little slices. slices. Prepare as as described

Garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Tomato sauce (see (see Garnish otber sauce sauce recommended for calf's head. SAUCE) or any other Calf's head head fried fried in batter. batter. r€rr TÊTE oB DE vEAU VEAU EN FRIror FRlTOT - This This Calfs is is the tbe same recipe recipe as that for Fried Fried calf calfss head. head. Fried Fried calfs calf's head head ià la pi6montaise. piémontaise. rErn "ffTE DE vEAU VEAU rrure FRITE A À rA, LA pr6uoNrllm 's head in a white PIÉMONTAISE - Cook Cook the the calf calf's white court-bouillon court-bouillon (see Slice the (see Calf Calfss head) head) and cut in in small small square pieces. Slice juice, Marinate for I1 hour hour in oil, lemon lemonjuice, tongue and the brain. brain. Marinate tongue pepper and chopped parsley. parsley. salt, pepper Dip in a light Iight batter batter (see BATTERS FOR FRYING) FRYING) and Dip deep-fry in sizzling fat. Drain Drain on a cloth, c1oth, season season with finely ground salt. Arrange Arrange d la beap on a dish, surrounded by aa border border of Risotto à in a heap pihmontaise of a not too piémontaise (see RICE). RI CE). Pour a few tablespoons tablespoons of Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE) over the risotto. thick Tomato coDARD -- This is Calf's head Godard. rtre TÊTE DE vEAU VEAU GODARD is preCalfs pared like Calfs lafinancidre. head d à la financière. Calf s head used to be served In the olden days, calf's head Godard used to be whole and almost always stutfed. calf s stuffed. (See below, Stuffed calfs

Ia poulette. trotters trotters d à la LA RAVIGOTE RAvIcorE -rBrp DE or VEAU vslu ÀA LA CalPs Calf's head head ài la ravigote. TÊTE (see above). above). Drain Drain in court-bouillon (see Cook the calf's head the calf's head in (see sauce (see pieces. Cover Ravigote sauce with Ravigote Cover with and square pieces. and cut into square SAUCE) and and garnish with slices of brain. rBrr DE oe VEAU vEAu sauces TÊTE variors cold cold sauces. Hot head witb wift various calfs head Hot calf's with slices of head on distr with slices of on aa dish Arrange the the cooked head cHAUDE CHAUDE -- Arrange parsley. Serve Serve with with with fried frid parsley. Garnish wüh and brain. tongue brain. Garnisb tongue and Mayonnaise, as: Atoli, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, such as: various cold cold sauces, sauces, such Aïoli, Gribiche, various (see (or Vinaigrette), Rémoulade, Vincent (see Tartare, Vincent Rimoulade, Tartare, Ravigote (or Cold sauces). SAUCE, Cold pn VEAU velu rBrs DE hot sauces. sauces. TÊTE head with with various various hot Hot calPs head Hot calf's (see head in aa white court-bouillon court-bouillon (see cHAUDE -- Cook the calf's head CHAUDE with slices of tongue and and slices oftongue on a dish with above) and drain; arrange on with sauces sauces such such and serve serve with fried parsley, and brain, garnish with fried (see SAUCE, Ravigote (see SAUCE, herbes, Hungarian, Ravigote as Caper, Caper, Fines herbes, as: Fines herbes, herbes, Diable, Fines white sauces); sauces): Charcutière, Charcatiire, Diable, Compound white Compound (see SAUCE, sauces). brown sauces). SAUCE, Compound Compound brown Piquante, Robert Robert (see Piquante, the calf's calf's FARcIE -- Cook Cook the on VEAU vEAU FARCIE head" TÊTE rErB DE Stuffd calf's calPs head. Stuffed in (see Calfs head), divide divide in Calf s head), in aa white white court-bouillon (see head in head (2- to parts into to into 6-cm. 6-cm. (2pieces. Cut lean parts Cut the the lean cut into into pieces. half or cut 3-inch) slices. made of of head with with aa stuffing stuffing made inside the the head Arrange tbese these inside Arrange (q.v) and and aa panada (q.v.) and cream, cream, and veal, panada minced veal, chopped minced chopped hardchopped hardmushrooms, chopped dried mushrooms, mixture of chopped dried mixture of chopped into parsley. Press forcemeat into Press this this forcemeat eggs and and chopped chopped parsley. boiled boiled eggs into up, into pieces of head, stuffed side up, stuffed side of bead, Put the the pieces dome shape. shape. Put aa dome white of wbite tablespoons of with several several tablespoons dish, with ovenproof dish, aa buttered ovenproof Put melted butter. butter. Put and melted with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and stock. Sprinkle with stock. Sprinkle in aa and brown hot water, brown in pan half-filled with hot water, and half-filled wÜh the in aa pan dish in the dish slow slow oven. oven. Poivrade, as Piquante, Piquante, Poivrade, such as sauce, such Serve Serve wlth with aa well-spiced well-spiced sauce, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Biarnaise (see Tartare, Ravigote or or Béarnaise Tartare, Ravigote garnishes one of of the the garnishes with one Calf's served with also be be served head can can also Calf's head head, Financière, Financiire, go with calf's head, with braised braised calf's whicb which usually usually go (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Godard, etc. (see Tortue, etc. Godard, Tortue, r,lncrE ÀA DE VEAU vEAU FARCIE loancienne. TÊTE r0rr DE Stuffed calfs head head ài l'ancienne. Sfiffd caJf's in aa wbite white courtcourthead in L'ANCIENNE calf's head Boil aa boned boned calf's L'ANcIENNE -- Boil Drain done. Drain (see Calfs head) until untll three-quarters three-quarters done. bouillon bouillon (see Calf s head) head, skin skin ears. Spread Spread the the head, Remove the the ears. and dry the head. Remove the head. and dry napkin, stretched stretched taut taut damp, wrung-out wrung-out napkin, side down, on on aa damp, side down, head, inside the flesh inside the head, the lean lean ftesb on of the Remove sorne some of on the the table. table. Remove removal of of the ears the ears in the the removal by the cover hole made made in the skin skin by cover tbe the hole pepper and and with salt, salt, pepper Season with with of bacon. bacon. Season with aa thick thick slice slice of (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS all-spice. Fill with Veal forcemeat with aa Veal all-spice. Fill forcemeat (see panada and and cream, cream, or minced veal, veal, panada made of of minced STUFFINGS) made or STUFFINGS) head, lean ftesh flesh taken taken out out of of the the head, made of addinga adding a mixture mixture made of the the lean and sorne some truffies. trufles. trimmed tongue, and and diced, diced, the the tongue, trimmed and opening. and sew sewup up the the opening. Enclose in the skin and the skin Enclose this this stuffing stuffing in into its its original original Wrap head into mould the and mould the head Wrap in in the napkin and the napkin shape. with string. string. shape. Secure Secure with in and sliced onions ions in Brown pieces of rinds, carrots carrots and sliced on Brown pieces of bacon bacon rinds, pan, SUITounded put the by butter head in in the surrounded by calf's head the pan, and put butter and the calf's large bouquet bouquet pieces Add aa large pieces of butter. Add knuckle browned browned inin butter. of knuckle for stove, for of the thestove, (q.v.). Simmer, garni garni (q.v.). top of covered, on on the the top Simmer, covered, and boil boil pint, li1| cups) Madeira and 15 cups) Madeira dl. (1$ pint, 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add 33 dl. (scant pint, pint,2f, vealstock. stock. 2i cups) down. cups) thickened thickenod veal dl. (scant down. Add Add 55 dl. pieceof muslin of muslin Put wrapped ininaapiece into the ears into thesaucepan, saucepan, wrapped Put the the ears Bring to boil. to easily. Bring to the the boil. out easily. be taken taken out enable them them to to be to enabIe Before the cookFinish lid on. on.Before thecookwith aalid in aaslow oven with Finish cooking cooking in slow oven more ing of more consistof ears, which which consist remove the the ears, ing isis complete, complete, remove delicate cooked sooner. sooner. are, therefore, therefore, cooked delicate ftesh flesh and and are, long Drain large, long arrange on on aalarge, and arrange Unwrap itit and Drain the head. Unwrap the bead. dish. place by means of ofsmall small skewers. skewers. by means ears in in their their place dish. Fix Fix the the ears Surround or Godard Godard wth Financière Financiire or either with head either Surround the the head garnish (see GARNISHES) bunches. garnish (see arranged inin bunches. GARNISHES) arranged

head dà I'ancienne.) l'ancienne.) head

os VEAU vEAU SAUCE sAUcE Calf's head with Gribiche sauce. TÊTE rErs DE Calfs head with Gribiche sauce. GRIBICHE - Cook the calf's head and the tongue in aa white and the cRrBrcrrE court-bouillon (see Calfs and cut into uniform pieces. Calf s head) and court-bouillon witb escalopes of tongue, and and slices of brain Drain. Garnish with parsley. Serve Serve with fresh parsley. cooked separately court-bouillonwith separately in court-bouillon (see SAUCE, Cold with Gribiche sauce (see Cold sauces). CaIf's vEAU À A L'ITALIENNE L'ITALIENNE or VEAU rBre DE I'itqlienne. TÊTE Calfs head à l'italienne. This is cooked calf's head head cut into square pieces and put into parsley. (s*, SAUCE). Sprinkle !talian chopped parsley. Sprinkle with chopped Italiut sauce (see Calf's A LA LA LYONNAISELYoNNAISE on VEAU vsau À rBre DE lyonnaise. TÊTE Calfs head à la lyonnaise.

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(see Calfs Cook Calf s in aa white white court-bouillon (see calf's head head in Cook the the calf's head), put them an ovenproof dish pieces and ovenproof dish and put them into an heaS, cut cut into pieces ions Iightly lined in lightly fried fried in onions thinly sliced sliced on lind with with aa layer layer of of thinly butter and parsley. Cover with LyonCover with mixed with with chopped chopped parsley. and mixed naise sauce (see SAUCE). and with breadcrumbs and Sprinkle witb sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle melted in the meltd butter. the oven. oven. butter. Brown in Calf's (Languedoc cookery). r6rs DE or cookery). TÊTE herd ài l'occitane I'occitane (Languedoc Calfs head VEAU head into into calf's head half aa well-soaked well-soaked calf's vrlu ÀA L'OCCITANE r'occtrArsE -- Cut balf (see 88 uniform white court-bouillon (see pieces and cook in in aa white and cook uniform pieces Calfs me court-bouillon cook calf's cook half aa calf's head). In In the same Calf s head). the sa tongue. in Court-bouillon Court-bouillon VV brain separately separately in Poach the tongue. Poach the brain (scant iI (see (see COURT-BOUILLON). Put Put 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant cup) ion, lightly into aa shallow in butter, butter, into shallow lightly fried fried in chopped on onion, cup) chopped fireproof garlic c10ve of end of towards tbe the end add 1I garlic clove towards dish and and add fireproof dish put in cooking. Place the in and put pan of water and in aa pan of boiling boiling water dish in the dish the and brain. pieces of tongue and brain. head and and the the sliced sliced tongue calf's head the pieces of calf's Garnish with cut peeled, deseeded tomatoes cut deseeded tomatoes with black black olives, olives, 22 peeled, into \ittle hard-boiled pieces and in oil, and 22 sliced sliced hard-boiled and tossed oil, and little pieces tossed in (3 oz., 6 tableeggs. g. (3 pepper. Put 75 g. o2.,6 tableand pepper. Put 75 with salt eggs. Season Season with salt and (6 spoons) into tiny dabs, 55 tablespoons tablespoons (6 tiny dabs, butter divided divided into spoons) butter j lemon juice of tablespoons) chopped lemon and and 1I teaspoon teaspoon chopped of 1 oil, juice tablespoons) oil, parsley pan of keeping of water, water, keeping parsley on Heat in in aa pan calf's head. head. Heat on the the calf's the head weil well with with the head covered. Before Before serving, serving, baste baste the dish covered. the dish the sauce. the sauce. Calf's with vEAU ÀA L'HUILE t'ttuILE -- Serve Serve with DE VEAU r6rs DE head in in oil. oil. TÊTE Calfs head slices parsley and and garnished with with fresh fresh parsley and brain, of tongue tongue and brain, garnisbed slices of Vinaigrette (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Vinnigrette sauce sauce (see Calf's Aux OLIVES oLIvEs -- Cut Cut the the rBre DE os VEAU VEAU AUX head with with olives. olives. TÊTE Calfs head head pan witb Demipieces. Put with sorne some Demiinto aa shallow head into into pieces. Put into shallow pan glace (see SAUCE) with glace sauce meat stock laced with stock laced rich meat sauce (see or r-ich SAUCE) or Madeira. Simmer slowly. slowly. and blanched olives. Simmer Madeira. Add Add stoned blanched olives. stoned and ponruCalf's ad ài la vEAU ÀA LA portugaise. TÊTE re PORTUrf;re DE DE VEAU head la portugaise. Calfs he GAISE gue into into square head and and ton tongue square calf's head cAIsE -- Cut Cut the boiled calf's the boiled pieces. (see Tomato fondue gently in not too pieces. Cook too thick thick Tomato in aa not Cook gently fondue (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Put with chopped chopped Sprinkle with brain on on top. top. Sprinkle Put the the sliced sliced calf's calf's brain parsley. parsley. Calf's poulette. TÊTE veAu ÀA LA LA POULETTE roULETTE -r$rs DE oe VEAU head ài la la poulette. CalPs head

641 64r

OFFAL Add sliced sliced calf's calf's brain, brain, cooked cooked inin court-bouillon (q.v.). court-bouilton (q Add .v.). juices, remove pan juices, Strain the the pan remove surplus fat, boil surplus fat, boil down down and and Strain pour over the calf's head. head. pour over the calf's Calfs bead head Ai la la Tertillière. Tertilli6re. TÊTE rBrn DE DE VEAU vEAU ÀA LA r,,l TERTILLIERE rrnrrrr,rinn Calf's Cook lhe the head head in in aa white white court-bouillon (we Calfs court-bouillon (see head), Calf s head), -- Cook drain, eut pieces and cut into into pieces put into and put into aa shallow pan with g. shallow pan with 150 150 g. drain, (5 oz., generous cup) pickled tongue, oz., generous cup) pickled (5 oz., tongueo 150 150 g.g. (5 oz., scant scant 22 (5 cups) mushrooms, mushrooms, 66 smaU small truffies, truffies, ail all coarsely coarsely shredded, shredded, and and cups) (generous I pint, 3| dl. dl. (generous! pint, It 1! cups) cups) Madeira (se SAUCE) Madeira sauce sauie (see SAUCE) 31 with trume truffie essence. essence. Cook gently for Cook gently for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add Add 1I with teaspoon finely finely shredded, shredded, blanched blanched and and drained drained lemon peel. lemon peel. teaspoon Garnish with with halves halves of of hard-bailed hard-boiled eggs eggs and and small small slices slices Gamish of calf's calf 's brain. brain. of Calfs head head CIl en tortue. tortue. TÊTE 16rr DE or VEAU VEAU EN EN TORTUE ToRTUE -- In In the the old old Calf's days, aa large large entrée entrie demanded demanded aa certain certain number number of garnishes. of garnishes. days, Nowadays, this this dish dish isis served served in in aa timbale timbale and and the the varÎous various Nowadays, garnishes are put in are put in aa mixed mixed ragoût ragofit over over il. it. garnishes garnish isis made This gamish made of of the the following following ingredients: ingredients: This quenelles of (see FORCEMEAT minced veal of minced veal (sec FORCEMEAT or or STUFFSTUFFquenelles INGS, Quenelle cocks' combs combs and and kidneys, kidneys, Quenelle jorcemeat); forcemeat); cocks' INGS, cooked mushrooms, mushrooms, stuffed poached olives, stuffed poached olives, slivers slivers of of cooked truffies and and escalopes escalopes of of calf's calf's tongue. tongue. To To this ragofrt, this ragoût, trumes stewed with with Madeira Madeira and and blended (see blended with with Tortue Tortue sauce sauce (see stewed gherkins, cut SAUCE), add add gherkins., cut in in uniform pieces. Arrange uniform pieces. Arrange the SAUCE), head on on aa dish, distu dress dress with garnishes and with the the garnishes and Tortue Tortue sauce, sauce, head decorate with with fried fried eggs, eggs, slices slices of of calf's calf's brain brain cooked cooked in in decorate (q.v.), dressed court-bouillon (q.v.), dressed crayfish, crayfish, also also cooked cooked in in courtcourt-bouillon bouillon, and and hean-shaped heart-shaped fried fried croûtons. cro0tons. bouillon, Pieces of of calf's calf's head, head, after after having having been been slowly cooked in slowly cooked in Pieces Tortue sauce, setuce, can can also also be arranged on be arranged on croûtons cro0tons of of bread bread Tortue fried in butter, butter, wilh garnishes disposed with the the gamishes disposed around. around. fried in Calf's head head can can also also be be served whole, stuffed served whole, stuffed and and cooked cooked Calf's in braising braising stock stock spiced (se, HERBS). spiced with with Turrle Turtle herbs herbs (sec HERBS). in Calfs bead head à la la toulousaine. rBrs DE DE VEAU VEAU A roulouCalf's touJo~aine. TÊTE À LA TOULOUSAINE -- Cut Cut the cooked head pieces. Fi!1 square pieces. Fill aa dish dish SAINE the cooked head into into square with pieces of tongue and brain and add add Garnish Garnish àd la Ia with pieces of tongue and brain and (see GARNISHES). Heat, cover with Allemande toulousaine GARNISHES). Heat, coyer witb Allemande toulousaine (see sance (see Garnish (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on mushroom mushroom essence. essence. Gamish sauce with witb slivers slivcrs of of truffie. trume. The served, cut The head head can can also also be he served, cut in in round round pieces, pieces, on on circular out in circular crofftons croûtons frid fried in in butter, butter, with with the the garnish garnish laid laid out in separate separate groups. groups. Pour Pour over over Allemande Allemande sauce. sauce. Calfs CaJrs head bead ià la la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. 16rr TÊTE DE DE vEAU VEAU A À r,c, LA vlr.lAlcRETTE VINAIGRETTE -- Preparod Prepared like like Calf Calfss head head in in oil. oil. Calfs Calf's heart heart Ià I'anglaise l'anglaise I. 1. conun COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAll A À r,'.e.Ncr,c,Ise L'ANGLAISE Cut crn G Cut the the calf's calf's heart heart into into slices slices about about Z 2 cm (~ inch) inch) thick. thick. Remove Remove the the little little clot clot of of blood blood which which forms forms in in the the centre centre between the compartments. between the comparUnents. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, brush brush with with melted melted butter, butter, roll roll in in freshly freshJy grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grill grill under under aa gentle geotle flame. flame. Arrange Arrange in in aa distr dish alternating altemating with with grilled grilled slices slices of of bacon. bacon. Garnish Gamish with with boiled boiled potatoes. potatoes. Dot Dot the the slices slices of of heart heart with with dabs dabs of of half-melted half-melted Mattre Maître (see dd'hô/el h6tel butter BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). buturs). buller (see BUTTER, Calf's Ca]f's heart heart Ià I'angleise l'anglaise If. II. corun COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU A À r'Ar.rclels L'ANGLAISECut Cut into into slices slices and and fry fry in in butter butter as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Calfs Calfs liver /iver dà l'anglaise l'anglaise 1(see 1 (see below). below). Casserole Casserole of of calfs calf's heart. heart. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEAU EN EN cAssERoLE CASSEROLE Season Season the the heart heart with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and put put into into an an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole in in which which 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *i cup) cup) butter butter have have been been heated. heated. Cook Cook in in aa moderate moderate oven oyen from from 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes, minutes, basting basting frequently frequently with with the the juice. juice. Baste Baste with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons thickened thickened veal veal stock. stock. Serve Serve in in the the casserole casserole in in which which itit was was cooked. cooked. Casserole Casserole of of calfs calf's heart heart ià ta la bonne bonne femne. femme. coEUR COEUR DE DE vEAU VEA U EN EN cAssERor-E CASSEROLE AÀr.l, LA soNNn BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Brown Brown the the calf's calf's heart heart in in sizzling sizzling butter butter in ln an an earthenware carthenware fireproof fireproof casserole casserole as as described described above. above. Add Add very very small smaU potatoes, potatoes, small small glazed glazed onions onions and and lean lean rashers rashers of of bacon, bacon, fried fried in in butter. butter. Cook Cook all ail

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the ingredients ingredients together. together. Finish Finish off described in off asas described in the the the preceding recipe. recipe. preceding Casserole of calf's heart of calf's heart can garnished with can be be garnished with various various Casserole vegetables, sorne some of of which which may may be be cooked cooked with with the heart, or the heart, or vegetables, added to to the the casserole; casserole; others others may may he added after after the be added heart the heart added cooked. isis cooked. Rorst calf's calfs beart. heart. COEUR coEr,JR DE DE VEAU vEAU RÔTI n6n - Season Season calf's calf's Roasl heart with with salt pepper, sprinkle salt and and pepper, sprinkle with with olive olive oil oil and and aa dash dash heart juice. Leave of lemon lemon juice. Leave to to soak soak for for 30 minutes in 30 minutes in this this seasonseasonof ing. Wrap Wrap in pork fat in aa sheet sheet of of pork piece of pig's caul. fat or in aa piece or in of pig's caul. Ingo Roast on on aa spit spit before before aa brisk brisk fire for 35 minutes or fire for 35 minutes or bake bake Roast juices to 22 hours hours in in the the oyen. oven. Serve Serve with pan juices with the the diluted diluted pan to poured over. over. poured calfs heart. Saut6ed calf's heart. COEUR coEUR DE DE VEAU VEAU SAUTÉ slur6 -- Cut heart Cut the the heart Sautéed into thin thin small small slices. slices. Season Season with pepper. Toss with salt and pepper. salt and Toss into quickly in in sizzlîng sizzling butter butter and and finish finish cookiog cooking as as described described in in quickly the recipe recipe for (see below). for Calfs Calf s kidney kidney àd la la bordelaise bordelaise (see below). the Saut6ed calf's calf's heart heart can prepared with can be be prepared with aa Mushroom Mushroom Sautéed sauce, Chasseur Chasseur sauce, sauce, Madeira (see Madeira or or other other wine wine sauce sauce (see sauce, SAUCE). SAUCE). An alternative, alternative, after after having tossed in butter, tossed it it in butter, is is to add to add An pilaf (see PILAF) Rice pilaj(see (see RICE). PILAF) or or risotto risotto (see RICE). Strff€d calf's calfs hearl heart wltb with varioœ variors vegetables. vegetables. COEUR coEUR DE DE Stuffed vEAU FARCI FARcr AVEC evsc LÉGUMES LEcr.rMEs -- Open Open the heart without separatseparatVEAU ing the the halves completely. Remove Remove the clot of blood the clot blood which which ing forms in the rniddle. middle. Season Season with with salt salt and pepper and fil! fill with with forms finely minced mincd Pork (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEATS or finely Pork jorcemeat TS or forcemeat (see STUFFINGS), or or other other st stuffing. in aa shect sheet of salt salt STUFFINGS), uffi ng. Wrap ilit in pork eut paper thin, cut paper in aa piece of thin, in of caul, caul, or in thin or in thin süces slices of of pork bacon. Secure Secure with with string. Put into a casserole, sprink!e sprinkle with with bacon. melted butter, butter, season, and cook in aa slow oyen season, and oven for abour about 1I hour. hour. heart on a dish and garnish garnish with the Arrange vegetables Arrange the heart the vegetables indicated. Dilute the with dry white wine, blend indicated. Dilute the pan juices juices with in boil down, veal stock, stock, boil down, add add butter, pour pour over io thickened veal the and serve. serve. the heart heart and Calves'kidneys. calf's kidney Calves' kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE DE VEAU VEAU - When when a calf's is is cut eut into into slices sliccs or escalopes for frying or grilling grilling cut eut off all ail fat remove membranes. If If it is to be he cooked whole, in a fat and remove casserole or or otherwise, itit is trimmed trimmed less drastically, drastically, so as to leave leave a a light light coating coating of of fat fat around it. il. Calves'kidneys Calves' kidneys ià la Bercy. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE VEAU VEAU A À LA nrncy BERCYCut Cut the kidneys across into into slices slÎces 2 cm. (} (1 inch) inch) thick. Brush them them with with melted mehe
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OFFAL OFFAL parsley and lemon of lemon and aa few few drops drops of chopped parsley with chopped Sprinkle with juice, and liver was was in which which the the Iiver pour over the butter butter in and pour over itit the juice, cooked. by grilling can also also he be prepared by I'anglaise can liver àri l'anglaise Calf's Iiver garnishing the dish with with boiled bacon, garnishing and the the bacon, liver and the the liver (see butter (see Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter potatoes and with Maître and dabbing dabbing with potatoes butters). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). vEAU BERCY BERcY -- Slice, Slice, season, season, FoIE DE DE VEAU llven Bercy. Bercy. FOIE Calf's Calfs liver (see grill. Serve with Bercy Bercy butter butter (see Serve with flour and and grill. dredge with with Bour but t er s). BUTTER, Compound C ompound butters). A LA rl BORDELAISE nonoelAlsn -FoIE DE DE VEAU vEAU À Calf's la bordelaise. bordelaise. FOIE Cdfs liver liI la and fry in in butter. butter. Arrange on with flour flour and Slice, dredge with Slice, season, season, dredge ham fried fried in in butter. with slices slices of ham rows with aa dish in alternate alternate rows dish in (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve sauce (see with Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce Serve with BouRcEoIsE vmu ÀA LA t.A BOURGEOISE FoIE DE DE VEAU Ca.lf's la bourgeoise. bourgeoise. FOIE Calfs liver liI la fat 1 crn. square bacon fat square -- Lard strips of of bacon liver with with thick thick strips Lard the the liver { cm. (2 to inches) long, long, seasoned seasoned to 33 inches) cm. (2 and 55 to inch square) to ft cm. square) and $ inch with Sprinkle with with pepper, spices spices and chopped parsley. Sprinkle rump àd lala with string. string. Braise llke Top rump brandy. Secure with (see BEEF). bourgeoise BEEF). bourgeoise (see rA BOURsounCalf's FoIE DE DE VEAU vEAU ÀA LA la bouguignonne. bouguignonne. FOIE livcr liI la CdPs liver GUIGNONNE as described described liver as calf's liver using sliced sliced calf's Proceed using cuIcNoNNE -- Proceed (se BEEF). in BEEF). Entrecdte àd la la bourguignonne (see in the for Entrecôte the recipe for Calf's FolE DE r,c, (Creole cookery). FOIE DE VEAU wnu ÀALA la créole cr6ole (Créole Calfs liven àI la pieces of CRÉOLE of and lard with with small in slices small pieces liver in slices and Cut the the liver cnfou -- Cut larding Dust few drops drops of of oil. oil. Dust marinate in in aa few Leave to larding bacon. bacon. Leave to marinate lightly leave in in the in fat fat and and leave the Brown on on both both sides sides in lightly with with flour. flour. Brown corner pan, fry fry lightly 1I teaspoon teaspoon In the the same same pan, corner of of the the pan. In finely chopped and add add the the same same quantity chopped onion, and finely chopped onion, purie parsley, Tomato purée Blend aa little Tomalo parsley, breadcrumbs and and salt. salt. Blend (see (see SAUCE, white sauces) with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon white basic sauces) Brown basic SAUCE, Brown put wine and put Remove the the slices slices of of liver, and wine and and add add to to the the pan. Remove on Heat aa dish, put a mixture in in the the pan. Heat each aa little little of of the mixture on each knob and fill with with the the slices slices of liver. bottom, and at the knob of butter at the bottom, of butter Pour thick. which should should he be thick. Pour over sauce, which over the the sauce, Calf's vmu ÀA L'ESPAGNOLE L'EsPAcNoE - FoIE DE DE VEAU liver ài l'espagnole. ltespagnole. FOIE CalPs liver Cut and fry fry inin butter. butter. flour and with flour in slices, dredge with Cut in slices, season, season, dredge (see FONArrange FONArrange on on aa bed bed of of Tomato fondte àd lala Nigoise (see DUE). parsley. and fried parsley. rings and frid onion rings Garnish with \4rith fried DUE). Garnish CaIf's Cut FoIE DE DE VEAU vslu ÀA L'ITALIENNE L'nALIENNE- - Cut I'italienne. FOIE liver àI l'italienne. Cdf's liver into pepper, and and fry fry briskly briskly and pepper, with salt salt and into thin season with thin slices, slices, season (se SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see with Tomato in sizzling butter. Serve with butter. Serve LYoNNAISE- FoIE DE DE VEAU vE,c,u ÀALA LA LYONNAISE la lyonnaise. FOIE CalPs livcr lii la Cut flour, fry fry briskly briskly inin with flour, into thin Cut into strips. Season, dredge with thin strips. butter, mixed. Fry lightly lightly sliced sliced onion onion inin and oil oil mixed. or butter butter and butter, or butter few tablesp04:ms tablespoons Add aa few liver. Add and put on on top top of of the the liver. butter and rich jelly. Sprinkle with with aadash dash of vinegar veal stock or meat jelly. rich veal or meat heated parsley. pan and chopped parsley. and with chopped heated in in the same pan the same Calf's pilaf. FOIE DE VEAU VEAU EN EN P1LAF PILAF - - Cut Cut the the rore DE liver witb with pilaf. CalPs liver liver Fry briskly pieces, season with flour. flour. Fry briskly and dredge dredge with into pieces, season and liver into in (se PILAF). Rrce pilaf (see PILAF). dish with with Rice in aa dish in butter. butter. Serve Serve in Sprinkle Tomato with Tomato little veal veal stock, stock, flavoured with Sprinkle with with aa !ittle purée purde (see (see SAUCE, and boiled boiled down down to to basicsauces) sauces) and Brown basic SAUCE, Brown thicken it. thicken it. Calf's "-'V v '_l~'J""L.1O provengde. FOIE r.,tr rnoveNgru,n FoIE DE DEVEAU VEAU ÀALA liver lii lala provençale. Calfs liver - Cut giveninin the proceed as recipe for for Calves' asgiven therecipe and proceed Cut inin slices slices and -brains provengale. brains àd lala provençale. Roast Lard the liver with with vrlu RÔTI ROn- - Lard theliver liver. FOIE FoIE DE DEVEAU Roast calf's calfs Iiver. lardoons and 55cm. inches) inch) wide wide and cm.(2(2inches) cm. t\:Ginch) lardoons of of bacon bacon fat j cm. long. parsley,and and pepper, spices andchopped chopped parsley, with pepper, spicesand long. Season Seasonwith sprinkle sheet of ofsalt salt caulor Wrap ininaacau] or thin thinsheet with brandy. brandy. Wrap sprinkle with pork, andtie pork, previously soaked water, and tiewith with string. cold water, soaked inincold (se ~'-)'-".l'l~'" CULINARY roast inin the the oyen oven(see or roast Cook on on aa spit spitor METHGDS, verage cooking lime roasts). Dilute Dilute the time for the METHODS, AAverage forroasts). pan juices with pour over overthe the vealstock, pan juices stock,pour white wine wine or or clear veal with white liver liverand and serve. serve. Calf's vEAUEN ENBROCHETTES BRocITETTES - FoIEDE DEVEAU liver 011 skewers. FOIE CalPs Iiver onskewers. Cut (l| inches) pieces 31 andi f toto inches)square square and 3*cm. t-. 01 liver into into pieces Cut the the liver

cooked in cut down down to to the the size size of olives, olives, three-quarters cooked butter. butter. Season with with salt salt and pepper. Cook in the oyen, Season oven, uncovered. uncovered. in the 4 tablespoons ({ cup) Baste with 4 cup) veal veal stock. stock. Serve Serve in casserole. Sometimes mushrooms musbrooms lightly tossed in butter are added Sometimes to the garnish of the kidney. Grflled calves' ulves' kidneys. kidneys. RocNoNs ROGNONS DE VEAU GRILLÉS DE VEAU cnu,rfs -- Sii Slitt Grllled the kidney lengthways without without completely dividing itit into the halves. Put 22 metal metal skewers skewers through it to keep it it open. halves. through it to keep brush over over with melted melted butter and and cook cook under under aa Season, brush Maître d'hôtel grill. Serve with Matte d'h6tel butter (separately or on the butter, or any other kidney), Bercy butter, other sauce sauce specially recomfor grills. grills. (See (See BUTTER, Compound butters; mended for SAUCE.) ps VEAU Calves' kidneys li ]a veA,u A rA, la liégeoise. lt6geoise. ROGNONS RocNoNs DE Cdves' LIÉGEOISE - Cook the kidneys as in the as described in the recipe for rdcmlse Cook the Casserole of calves' kidneys. ki&teys. Add Add to to the the casserole 44 crushed juniper berries, 2 tablespoons tablespO()ns (3 (3 tablespoons) gin which has has tablespoons) gin set ablaze, (2 tabiespoons) ablaze, and and tablespoons tablespoons (2 tablespoons) thickbeen set ened veal stock. Serve as as it is.

I

l|

Calves' witb pilaf. ROGNONS DE VEAU VEAU EN EN PILAF PILAF -RocNoNs DE Calves'kidnefn with pilaf.

Prepared like like Calfs Iiver liver with pilaf (se below). RocNoNs DE DE VEAU vEAU kidneys sautéed Calvest kidneys saut6ed liI la bordehise. ROGNONS À LA BORDELAISE SAUTÉS A and cut into into small soRpsrAtsc -- Skin tbe slurfs the kidney and small slices. Season Season with salt and and pepper. Sauté Saute briskly in sizzling briskly in sizzling ove the hot. butter, rem remove the kidney and keep bot. Add (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) white wine wine to Add 1I dL dl. (6 to the the butter. Put Boil butter. Put in in 1 tablespoon finely chopped shallots. shallots. Boil down; (scant i pint, generous cup) pint, generous down; add add 2| dl. cup) thickened dl. (scant thickened brown veal pan juices left veal stock, and the left over over from from frying the brown stock, and the pan Put the kidney kidney. Boil down to the desired desired consistency. consistency. Put to the into the sauce (3 tablespoons) diced diced beef sauce with with 22 tablespoons (3 marrow, and weil marrow, poached and well drained. Mix, and serve in a dish sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped parsley. Ca.lves' sautdcd witb with mushrooms. mushrulnr$ ROGNONS RocNoNs DE DE Calves' kidneys kldneyr santéed VEAU vrlu SAUTÉS kidney into into small slurts AUX AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs -- Cut Cut the the kidney small sUces, pepper and and sauté briskly in in and pepper slices, season season with with salt salt and saute briskly sizzling Remove the and keep keep hot. hot. sizding butter. butter. Remove the sUces slices and Fry Remove them Fry 44 sliced mushrooms in in the same butter. butter. Remove them the same sliced mushrooms and and add add to to the the kidney. Pour (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Madeira Madeira into into aa Pour 1I dl. dl. (6 scant + cup) ''''HJ'''''pa,", i cup) thickened pint,3 veal add 1-!l{ dl. dl. (| pint, brown veal saucepan, add thickened brown . . ,.,. ou ,~ ...... , and juices left (ser', .SAUCE) and the left or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see the juices stock or over Boil down down bya over from from the the kidney. kidney. Boil by a good third. third. Put mushrooms into this which Put the kidneys and and the this sauce, sauce, which the kidneys the rnushrooms should quite tbick. Add 11 tablespoon butter. butter. Shake Shake the should he be quite the thick. Add pan pan to mix weil. Heap on well. Heap on aa shallow shallow dish. to mix Sautéed with various various wmes. wines. ROGNONS RocNoNs Saut6ed calves' calves' kidneys kidneys witb SAUTÉS (with or or without without slurfs AU AU VIN vrN -- Prepare Prepare as as described described above above (with mushrooms) mushrooms) and replace Madeira Madeira by Chablis, Sauternes, and replace Chablis, Sauternes, Graves Burgundy, Graves or or another another white white wine wine or or aa red wine: wine: Burgundy, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Côtes wine, Rhine Rhine wine, wine, etc. etc. C6tes du du Rhône, Rh6ne, Alsatian Alsatian wine,

rl

2i

I

I

Ca.lves' DE VEAU vEAU EN EN RocNoNs DE Calves' kidneys kidneys 00 on skewers. skewers. ROGNONS Skin kidneys and and cut into unifonn uniform pieces. Skin the cut into the kidneys Season metal skewers, Season with with salt and pepper. Put Put on on metal skewers, alternsalt and Dip inin ating with with pieces of lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Dip of bacon, lightly grill under flame. Serve Serve with with breadcrumbs and and grill under aa brisk brisk flame. Maitre Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter, Bercy butter butter or recombutter, Bercy or aa special special sauce sauce recommended (see BUTTER, grills (see mended for for grills BUTTER, Compound Compound butters; butters;

BROCHETTES BRocHETTES -

SAUCE).

Calf's ForE DE DE VEAU vnlu ÀA L'ANGLAISE L'ANGLAIsE -- Cut Calfs liver lii I'anglaise. FOIE Cut the pepper, calf's liver liver into with salt and pepper, into thin slices, the calf's slices, season season with salt and dredge quickly inin sizzling and fry dredge Iightly lightly with with flour flour and fry very very quickly sizzling butter. Arrange on dish with with thin Brown on on aa dish butter. Brown on both both sides. sides. Arrange thin rashers pan as rashers of as the of bacon, fried in in butter butter in in the liver. bacon, fried the same same pan the liver. me size, Serve in down to Serve with with potatoes cut cut down to the same size, boiled boiled in the sa salted potatoes. salted water water and well well drained, drained, or or with with steamed steamed potatoes. 643 643

OFFAL OFFAL cm. (} inch) thick. quickly in to I inch) thick. Fry Fry these these quickly in butter butter to to stiffen stiffen $ loi 1I cm. metal skewers, them. Put Put them on metal them on skewers, alternating alternating with with rows rows of of them. lean bacon bacon cut cut to to the the same same size and lightly size and lightly fried. fried. Brush Brush with with lean melted butter butter and and dip in breadcrumbs. dip in breadcrumbs. Grill, Grill, and and serve with serve with melted (see BUTTER, Maftre d'Miel d'h6tel bul/er butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound bul/ers), butters), MaÎlre or serve serve with with one one of of the the sauces sauces specially specially recommended recommended for for or grills, such (see SAUCE). such as as Diable, Diable, Piquante, Piquante, Bordelaise Bordelaise (see SAUCE). grills, Mushrooms, eut cut into into thick thick slices slices and and lightly lightly tossed in tossed in Mushrooms, can also also be added to butter, can be added to the the liver. liver. butter, liver soufflé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ CalPs liver sourr,f DE DE FOIE ForE DE DE VEAU vEAU ~- Pound Pound Calf's (18 oz.) g. (l8 500 g. oz.) braised braised calf's calf's liver liver in pur6e in in aa morlar mortar or or purée in 500 (3 oz., electric blender g. (3 blender with with 75 75 g. o2.,6 tablespoons) butter butter and and 6 tablespoons) electric pint, seant dl. (~(+ pint, scant cup) cup) very very thick (see thick Béchamel Bdchamel sauce sa:uce (see 22 dl. yolks and SAUCE). Bind Bind with with 33 cgg egg yolks and I dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, SAUCE). scant :tI cup) cup) double double crcam. cream. Season pepper and Season with with salt, and salt, pepper scant nutmeg. Rub Rub through through aa sieve sieve with with aa wood wooden spoon. Add Add 33 nutmeg. en spoon. very stiftly stifly beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. very (see Pour into into aa buttered buttered soufflé souffi6 dish dish and and bake in in the oyen oven (see Pour SOUFFLE,). SOUFFLÉ). lungs ili la la bourgeoise. Calves' bourgeoise. MOU Mou DE DE VEAU A LA VEAU À r,q, BOURnounCa Ives' lungs cEoIsE ~- Calves' prepared àd la Calves' lungs lungs can (see can be be prepared la bourgeoise bourgeolse (sec GEOISE GARNISHES). See See below, below, Slewed Stewed calves' for method. method. calves' lungs Iungs for GARNISHES). pouLETTE ~ poulette. MOU Calves'lnngs la poulette. Mou DE DE VEAU veeu À A LA LA POULETTE Ca Ives' luugs ili la pieces, simmer Cut in in small small pieces, simmer in in bUller pan and butter in in covered covered pan Cut finish cooking cooking as as described (lambs') described in in the recipe recipe for for Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') finish poulette. trotters àd la la pou/elle. trollers Stewed calves' calves' hmgs. lungs. CIVET crvEr DE DE MOU Mou DE DE VEAU vEAU ~ Cut the Stewed - Cut (2 oz.) g. (2 pieces. Season lungs into into 50 50 g. oz.) pieces. pepper. Season with with salt and pepper. salt and lungs Brown in in bu butter. Brown tter. pieces are When the the pieces are brown, sprinkle in in 33 tablespoons tablespoons When brown, sprinkle (scant if, cup) cup) flour. flour. Allow flour to the flour cook for for aa few moments, moments, (seant Allow the to cook (undiluted red wine or it. Add stirring il. Add enough enough red wine (undiluted or half stirring red wine half wine and half stock) to cover the good bouquet the lungs. lungs. Add wine and half stock) to cover Add aa good (q.v.) and garni (q.v.) garlic and and 1I crushed crushed clove clove of of garlic and mix. Cook in mix. Cook in aa garni moderate oyen with aa lid oven with lid on on for for l~ l| hours. hours. moderate Remove put them of lung, them into Remove the the pieces pieees of lung, put into aa shallow pan pan (9 oz., with 250 g. cup) lean oz., generous diced bacon, B. (9 with 250 generous cup) lean diced bacon, blanched blanched (9 OZ., and g. (9 250 g. o2,33 cups) cups) mushrooms, and frid fried in in butter, butter, 250 mushrooms, sliced ifif they they are are big, big, whole whole if if small, small, 24 24 small small fried fried onions. Strain the and pour Continue to the pan pan juices juices and pOUI over. over. Continue to cook in in the oven oyen for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Garnish Garnish with with heart-shaped heart-shaped crottons croûtons of of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Calfs Calf's mesentery. mesentery. FRATSE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU -~ The The fold fold of of peritoneum peritoneum which which attaches attaches part part of of the the intestinal intestinal canal canal to to the posterior posterior wall sold in wall of of the the aMomen. abdomen. It It is is not not sold in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. Fried Fried calfs ca.lf's mesentery. meselltery. FRATsE FRAISE DE DE vEAU VEAU FRrrE FRITE -~ Drain Drain the mesentery mesentery cooked cooked in in the the special special court-bouillon court-bouillon given given for for (see above). Calf Calj'ss head head(see above). Dry, Dry, cut cut in in square square pieces, pieces, season season the pieces, dip in in lightly lightly beaten beaten egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and deeppieces, dip fry in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. fry in Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with aa spiced sauce sauce such as Diable, Piquante, Piquallle, etc. etc. (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). as Diable, Calf's Calf's mesentery meselltery ià la la hongroise. hongroise. FRATSE FRAISE on DE veau VEAU A À rl LA HoNGRoISE HONGROISE -~ Cut Cut the the mesentery mesentery into into uniform unifonn pieces, pieces, fry fry briskly briskly for for aa few few minutes minutes in in butter, butter, sprinkling sprinkling them them with with aa good good pinch pinch of of paprika. paprika. Serve Serve with with Hungarian Hungarian sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Calf's Calfs mesentery meselltery ià lTndienne. l'indielllle. FRATSE FRAISE DE DE VEAU VEAU A À r'nvnrcNNn L'INDIENNE Cut the the mesentery mesentery into into uniform unifonn slices, put put them them for for a few few -~ Cut moments moments into into Curry Curry sauce sauce (se, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Serve Serve with with Rice Rice dà l'l'indienne indienne (see' (see RICE). RICE). Calfs Calf's mesentery mesentery Ià la la lyonnaise. IYOllllaise. FRATSE FRAISE on DE vulu VEAU A À ra LA LyoNNArsE Cook the the mesentery mesentery as as described described above, above, cut cut itit LYONNAISE -~ Cook into into thin thin strips strips and and proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Tripe Tripe dà ln la lyonnaise lyonnaise (see (see above). above). Calfs Calf's mesentery mesentery iil la la poulette. poulette. FRATsE FRAISE oE DE vsau VEAU A À rA, LA IoULETTE POULETTE -~ Cook Cook the the mesentery mesentery as as above, above, cut eut into into uniform uniform

pieces and proceed as and proceed as described described in in the for Tripe recipe for the recipe Tripe àd la la pieces poulette (sec (see above). above). poulelle Calves' sweetbreads. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAUvEAU - Soak Soak the the sweetbreads Ca Ives' sweetbreads. sweetbreads in cold cold water water until until they they become become white. white. Cover Cover with with salted in salted cold water water in in aa saucepan, saucepan, and and bring bring slowly slowly to to the the boil, cold boil, frequently with stirring frequently with aa wooden wooden spoon. At the the tirst spoon. At first sign sign of of stirring boiling, cool cool under under running running water. water. boiling, Drain the put between the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, trim, trim, put between two two cloths cloths under under Drain board with with aa weight weight on on top. top. aa board With aa larding larding needle needle insert insert into into the the sweetbreads sweetbreads strips strips of of With pieces oftruftle, bacon, stud stud with with pieces of truffie, ton ham; or tongue, or leave leave them bacon, gue, ham; them are, according as they they are, according to to the the use use for for which which they are are intended. as Cook aceording according to recipe chosen. to the the recipe chosen. Cook Calves'sweetbreads I'anversoise. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAU velu ÀA l.'ANVERL'ANvERCalves' sweetbreads àI l'anversoise. solsE ~- Braise Braise in in white garnish white stock, stock, serve with Anversoise gamish serve with SOISE (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) and pan juices, with and the the panjuices, with veal veal stock stock added added (sce and boiled dO'INTI down to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency. and Attereaux of calves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ~- Sec ATTEREAUX. See ATTEREAUX. At1ereaux Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads àt la la banquière. banquiire. RIS nrs DE os VEAU vrA,u ÀA LA r.a Calves' sA,|reuriRE ~- Braise (see below). Braise in in white white stock below). Serve stock (sce Serve with BANQUIÈRE (see GARNISHES). garnish (see Banquiire gamish GARNISHES). Banquière Calves' sweelbreads sweetbreads braised braised in in brown brown stock. stock. RIS Rrs DE DE VEAU Calves' sRAtsfo À A BRUN snuN ~- Put Put the the calves' calves' sweetbreads, prepared as sweetbreads, prepared as BRAISÉS describod above, above, into aa shallow pan pan with butter, in in which which 1I described tablespoon diced diced salt salt pork or bacon bacon rinds rinds have have been tablespoon pork or Add thinly sliced slicod on onions Season, and and browned. Add ions and carrots. Season, (q.v.). add aa bouquel bouquet garni (q.v.). add gently in Cook gently in the pan, add the covered covered pan, add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons Cook glazd condition, and and add add aa few few white wine, boil down to aa glazed tablespoons brown veal tablespoons veal stock. Finish cooking cooking as as described described in in the recipe for for Ca/ves' Finish the recipe Calves' sweetbreads braised braised in white glare for a little longer. while stock but glaze sweetbreads garnish as indic3ted and garnish indicated in the Serve and the chosen recipe. The liquid for moistening should be The liquid used used for moistening sweetbreads should very thick. Calves' sweetbreads braised stock. Rrs Calves' braised in in white white stock. RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU BRAIsf,s cooled and À nuNc BLANC ~ Put Put the the blanched, cooled and pressed BRAISÉS A (larded, studded sweetbreads (larded, studded or or left sweetbreads left plain, plain, according according to recipe) into into aa shallow pan in which which some bacon rinds rinds have been been browned in butter, butter, with finely fmely sliced carrots carroIS and onions. Season and add a a small bouquet bouquel garni garni (q.v.). (g.v.). Stew under a a lid lid on aa gentle gentle fire. lire. Add a few tablespoons white stock. Bring to the boil, cover, coyer. cook in the oven oyen from 35 35 to 45 minutes, basting frequently frequently with the juices. juices. As As soon as the sweetbreads sweetbreads are cooked, glaze them very lightly (if the recipe calls for such glazing) by exposing exposing them lightly (if for for a few minutes, uncovered, to the heat of the oven, oyen, and basting basting them them with with the fat fat of the pan juices. juices. Remove the sweetbreadg sweetbreads, strain strain the the pan juices. juices. Serve Serve and and garnish gamish as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Calves' Ca Ives' sweetbreads sweetbreads Clamart. Rrs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU cLAMART CLAMART ~ Braise Braise in in brown brown stock. Serve with Clamart Clamart garnish (or with green green peas peas and butter) butter) and the the pan pan juices juices poured poured over over (see (see GARNTSHES). GARNISHES). Escalopes Escalopes ofcalvesn of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. EscALopEs E.~CALOPf.S DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE velu VEAU A À L'ANcTENNE L'ANCIENNE ~ Cut the the sweetbreads sweetbreads into into thick thick slices and and braise braise in in white white stock stock as as in in recipe recipe above. above. Arrange Arrange on on the the inner inner edge edge of of aa large large puff puff pastry pastry shell. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with a ragofrt rago';l of of cock's cock's combs combs and and cock's cock's kidneys, kidneys, trufres truftles and and mushrooms, mushrooms, blended blended with with Veloutd Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with with chicken chic ken stock stock boiled boiled down down with with cream cream and and flavoured fiavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Put Put a a sliver sliver of of truffie truffie on on each each escalope. escalope. Escalopes Escalopes of ofcalves' calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads in in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE RIs RIS DE DE velu VEAU plNfns PANÉES -~ Cut Cut the the escalopes escalopes as as describd described above. above. Dip Dip in in lightly lightly beaten beaten egg cgg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry Fry them them in in clarifiod clarified butter butter (see (sec CLARIFICATIONI). CLARIFICATION). Serve Serve with with garnish gamish and and sauce sauce recommended recommended in in the the recipe. recipe.

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6M 644

OFFAL OFFAL slie slice the the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, arrange in a circle circle on a buttered buttered dish, surround surround with with sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, cover cover tvith with Duxelles Duxelles sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and brown brown the top. When ready ready to serve, sprinkle sprinkle with aa little little lemon lemon juice juice and chopped parsley. parsley. Escalopes Escalopes of of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià I'italienne. l'italienne. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE vnlu VEAU A À L'ITALIEI.IvE L'ITALIENNE - Fry escalopes of of braised sweetbreads breads in oil. Pour Pour over ltaliot Italian sauce sauce (s* (see SAUCE). Escalopes of maréchale. rsclroprs ESCALOPES of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ià la mar6chale. DE DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU VEAU A À r.,c, LA T,IAR6cHALE MARÉCHALE - Dip Dip in in beaten beaten egg egg and and fry in breadcrumbs of breadcrumbs and and fry in butter. butter. Garnish with with slivers slivers of truffies trufHes and and cooked cooked asparagus asparagus tips tips dressed dressed with with butter. Sprinkle with the butter Sprinkle butter left in the pan pan in which which the the escalopes escalopes were cooked. Escalopes of calves' sweetbrea& sweetbreads à la milanaise. milanaise. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU A Àu LA urrlNltsn MILANAISE -- Coat Coat witha with a mixture mixture of of grated grated cheese and in the the and breadcrumbs, and finish off as described described in milanaise (see recipe for Veal chops àd la milanaise recipe for (see VEAL). VEAL). ESCALOPFS DE DE Escalopes of of calves' calves' sweetbreads Rossini Rossini. EscALoPEs as described described complete as RIs RIS DE vEAU VEAU nossttu ROSSINI -- Fry Fry in butter, butter, and complete Rossini (see in the recipe for for Tournedos Rossini (see BEEF). BEEF). EscALoPEs Saint-Germaitl ESCALOPES Escalopes of sweetbreads Saint-Germain. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads DE RIS Rrs DE vEAU sArNT-cERMlnq -- Cut a sweetbread which which has VEAU SAINT-GERMAIN into four and cooled under a been been soaked, blanched and a press press into and pepper, dredge with with salt Season salt and escalopes. Se as on with pepper, dredge with flour Rour and fry in butter. RIs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU AU AU cRATIN GRATIN - Braise and and

-

Escalopes Escalopes ofcalves' of calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads dà I'ancrenne l'ancienne

The The escalopes escalopes can can be be coated coated with with mushrooms, mushrooms, ham, chopped parsley, truffies, truffles, grated Parmesan, Parmesan, mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.), (q,v.),

i

etc. (See GARNISHES; SAUCE.) Escalopes of calves' calves' sweetbreads in butter. butter. EscALoPEs ESCALOPES DE Rrs RIS DE DE VEAU VEAU AU AU BEURRE - Blanch and and cool under a press. press. Cut the sweetbreads sweetbreads into 3 or 4 escalopes each, depending saut6 in butter. Rour and sauté butter. on thickness. Season, dredge with flour Serve with the garnish and sauce recommended Serve recommended in the recipe

-

GARNISHES, SAUCE). GARNISHES, SAUCE). sauce. Fried escalopes escalopes of calves' sweetbreads in allemande sauce.

(see

- Fry in crofftons, and and serve with Allemande fried croûtons, butter, arrange on fried sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). gratin. EscALopEs sweetbreads au au gratin. ESCALOPFS DE Escalopes of calves' calves'sweetbreads EscALopEs DE Rrs slur6ns A ESCALOPES RIS DE VEAU VEAU SAUTÉFS À t'artnu,tNoE L'ALLEMANDE -

(Roberr Carrier) pastry case Escalopes of served in in aa pastry case (Rober! ofcalves' sweetbreads served Carrier) Escalopes calves' sweetbreads

u5 645

OFFAL OFFAL Arrange each on a little cake of Anna potatoes (see Arrange each on a little cake of Anna potatoes (see POTATOES). Top with a trickle of very thlck Biarnaise POT ATOES). Top with a trickle of very thick Béarnaise sauce (see SAUCE) and in the centre of the sauce put a in the centre of the sauce put a sauce (see SAUCE) and small teaspoon meat jelly. Add a little butter to the boiledjelly. Add a little butter to the boiledsmall teaspoon meat

japonaise. RIS Calyes'sweetbreads sweetbreads àil lata japonaise. DEVEAU RrsDE vEAUÀALA LA Calves' Braise ininbrown brownstock stockasasininabove above recipe. recipe. Serve Serve -Braise juicesand withthe theboiled-down boiled-downpan panjuices garnish with andgarnish withChinese with Chinese (seeGARNISHES). artichokes (see GARNISHES). artichokes jardini0re. RIS pe VEAU Calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads ài lala jardinière. rusDE vnA,uÀALA rA, Calves' ranDrNdnn- - Braise Braise ininbrown brown stock stockasasininabove above recipe; recipe;serve JARDINIÈRE serve withJardinière Jardiniiregarnish garnish(see (seeGARNISHES) GARNISHES)and pan with and the the pan juices boiled boiled down. down. juices Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads àI la la macédoine. mac6doine. RIS nrsDE oB VEAU vreu ÀA LA u Calves' uecfoonr - - Braise Braise inin brown brownstock, stock, as as described described above. above. MACÉDOINE garnish àdlalamacédoine Servewith with garnish (see GARNISHES). macddoine (see GARNISHES). Serve Calves'sweetbreads Nantua I.I. RIS Rrs DE DEVEAU vEAU ÀALA r-l NANTUA NeNrul Calves' sweetbreads àlla la Nantua Braisein in white white stock, stock, without (see above). without larding larding (see above). Scoop Scoop -- Braise about two-thirds two-thirds out out of of the the top top part. part. Fill Fill with with Crayfish Crayfish tail tail about ragofrt àd laIa Nantua (see CRA Nantua (see CRAYFISH), substituting, ifif ragoût YFISH), substituting, necessary, 22 small lobsters for small lobsters for the the crayfish. crayfish. Garnish Garnish the necessary, the part of main part of the the sweetbreads sweetbreads with with this this mixture. mixture. main Cover with with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle with with Coyer breadcrumbs, glaze glaze ligh lightly in the the oyen. oven. Arrange Arrange on on croûtons, breadcrumbs, tly in cro0tons, garnish with with very very small patty shells small patty shells filled filled with with the the crayfish crayfish garnish garnish and and slivers slivers of of truffles. truffies. Serve Serve with with Suprême SuprAme sauce, sauce, to to garnish which Crayfish Crayfish butter butter isis added. (See SAUCE; added. (See SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, which Compound butters.) butters.) Compound Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ài la la Nantua Nantua II. II. RIS nrs DE DE VEAU vEAU À Calves' A LA LA NANTUA -- Braise Braise in in white white stock (see above). stock (see above). Garnish Garnish with NANTUA with crayfish tails, tails, shrimps shrimps or pieces of or pieces meat and of lobster meat and slivers crayfish slivers of truffle. truffie. Coyer Cover with with Suprême SuprAme sauce sauce with with the the boiled-down of juices, pan juices, to to which which Crayfish Crayfish butter butter has (See has been been added. added. (See pan SAUCE; BUTTER, BUTTER, Compoundbutters.) Compound butters.) SAUCE; Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads ài la pdrigourdine. RIS la périgourdine. Rrs DE DE VEAU vBau À Calves' A LA r_A, p6RrcounornE Braise in in brown stock (see above). Garnish PÉRIGOURDINE -- Braise with truffles truffies cut cut in in thin thin slices or diced. diced. Serve with Madeira with (see SAUCE) sauce (see SAUCE) made with boiled-down juices. boiled-down pan juices. sauce pocH6s - PrePoached calves' calves'sweetbreads. Rrs DE Poached sweetbreads. RIS DE vEAU VEAU POCHÉS - prepare sweetbreads as as described described at at the beginning of this pare the the sweetbreads section and and put Cover with white stock. section put into into aa saucepan. Coyer Bring to Bring to the the boil, boil, remove scum and simmer gently 35 to 40 minutes, depending on size. size. Drain Drain the sweetbreads sweetbreads and strain minutes, depending the the stock. stock. Serve Serve and and garnish garnish as as described described in the recipe recipe used. used. Calves' RIS or DE vrlu VEAU pof;r,fs POÊLÉS -- prepare Prepare the Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads poGl6. poêlé. nrs sweetbreads Heat I1 generous generous tablespoon sweetbreads as as described described above. above. Heat butter butter in in a a shallow shallow frying frying pan, pan, put put in in the the sweetbreads, sweetbreads, season, and cook cook covered on gentle gentle heat heat 35 to to 40 minutes. minutes. season. and Garnish, Garnish, and and serve as as described described in in the the particular particular recipe. recipe. Calves' RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU pRrNcEssE PRINCESSE -Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads princessg. princesse. RJs Poach Poach or or braise braise in in white white stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Princess GARNISHES) and and white white Allemande Allemande Prin cess garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES) sauce made with with the the boiled-down boiled-down pan pan juices. juices. sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) made Calves'sweetbreads Calves' sweetbreads with with various various pur6es. purées. Rrs RIS DE DE vEAU VEAU AUx AUX punfns PURÉES -- Braise Braise in in brown brown stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with pur6e purée of of any any of of the the following following vegetables: vegetables: artichokes, artichokes, asparagus, asparagus, aubergines, aubergines, carrots, carrots, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumbers, cucumbers, kidney kidney beans, beans, French French beans, beans, lentils, lentils, onions, onions, green green peas, peas, soubise. soubise. Calves'sweetbreads Calves' sweetbreads R6gence. Régence. Rrs RIS DE DE vnau VEAU nfcsNcE RÉGENCE -- Stud Stud with with slivers slivers of of truffie. truffle. Braise Braise in in white white stock stock (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Rigence Régencegarnl'sfr garnish and and Allemande Allemandesauce sauce madewith made with the the concentrated concentrated pan panjuices juices (see (see GARNISHES, GARNISHES, SAUCE). SAUCE). Roast Roast calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs RIS DE DE vs.Au VEAU ndrts RÔTIS -- prepare Prepare sweetbreads sweetbreads as as described described above. above. Lard Lard them them with with strips strips of of fat fat bacon, bacon, or or leave leave plain. plain. Season, Season, wrap wrap in in aa sheet sheet oi of salt salt pork pork or orin in aa piece pieceof ofcaul, caul, and and put put on onaa spit. spit. Cook Cookover overbrisk briskheat heatfor for35 35minutes. minutes.Serve Serveand andgarnish garnishas as described particularrecipe. recipe. described in in the theparticular Soufr6 of calves' calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs RIS DE DE vseu VEAU souFFr,6 SOUFFLÉ -Soufflé of Braise Braise sweetbreads sweetbreads in in white white stock stock (see (see above) above) and and hollow hollow out. out. Prepare Prepare the the sgooped-out scooped-out pieces piecesas as aa souffi6 soufflé(q.v.) (g.v.) and and JApoNArsEJAPONAISE

down pan juices, and spoon around the escalopes. down pan juices, and spoon around the escalopes. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads can be grilled instead of ca Ives' sweetbreads can be grilled instead of Escalopes of being fried in butter. being fried in butter.

Escalopes ofcalves' sweetbreads with trufles Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffles

Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffies. EscALopEs Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads with truffles. ESCALOPES Cook the the escalopes escalopes in in butter. butter. - Cook Arrange on cro0tons of bread fried in butter and put on Arrange on croûtons of bread fried in butter and put on each escalope or 4 slivers of truffie heated in butter. Garnish each escalope 33 or slivers oftruffle heated in butter. Garnish the middle of 4the the dish dish with with Noisette Noisette potatoes (see the middle of potatoes (see POTATOES). Add Madeira and veal stock toihepan juices, POT ATOES). Add Madeira and veal stock to the panjuices, boil down, and pour over the escalopes. boil down, and pour over the escalopes. Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads Villeroi. EscALopEs DE Escalopes of calves' sweetbreads Villeroi. ESCALOPES DE RIs DE VEAU vrLLERor - Braise and slice the sweetbreads, coat RIS DE VEAU VILLEROI - Braise and slice the sweetbreads, coat with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE), dip with Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE), dip in in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. in a ring _ Arrange Arrange in a ring on on aa dish, dish, and and garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with Pirigueux or Tomato sauce (see SAUCEi. Serve with Périgueux or Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). Calves'sweetbreads i la fermiire. Rrs DE vr.nu rrRurine Calves' sweetbreads à la fermière. RIS DE VEAU FERMIÈRE -Braise in brown stock (see above). When half-cooked add Braise in brown stock (see above). When half-cooked add Fermilre garnish (see GARNISHES) .. Finish Finish cooking cooking Fermière garnish (see GARNISHES).. together and serve with its own juices. together and serve with its own juices. Calves'sweetbreads i la financiire. nrs op vnau A ur Calves' sweetbreads à la financière. RIS DE VEAU À LA rsNrA,NcdRr - Stud the sweetbreads with pieces of truffe FINANCIÈRE - Stud the sweetbreads with pieces of truffle and Pickled(scarlet) beefor ox tongue (see above). Braise in and Pickled(scarlet) beefor ox tongue (see above). Braise in brown stock, serve with Financidre garnish and Financiire brown stock, serve with Financière garnish and Financière sauce with the pan juices added (see GARNISHES: sauce with the pan juices added (see GARNISHES; SAUCE). SAUCE). This is usually served either on frie-d crottons or in a pie This is usually served either on frie'd croûtons or in a pie crust. crust. Grilled calves' _ Rinse, DE VEAU cRrLLEs RIS DE vEAU GRILLÉS - Rinse, GriUed calves' sweetbreads. sweetbreads. Rrs blanch, cool and press the sweetbreads. Brush with melted blanch, cool and press the sweetbreads. Brush with melted butter, season and grill under a moderate flame. Serve and butter, season and grill under a moderate ftame. Serve and garnish as indicated in the recipe. garnish as indicated in the recipe. IfIfthe the sweetbreads sweetbreads are are too too big, big, divide dividethem them horizontally horizontallyin in halves before grilling them. halves before grilling them. Grilled calves'sweetbreads with various gamislres. Rrs DE GriUed calves' sweetbreads with various garnishes. RIS DE vEAU GRTLLf - Garnish with braised or buttered vegetables, VEAU GRILLÉ - Garnish with braised or buttered vegetables, pur6es of green or dried vegetables (the pur6es are usually purées of green or dried vegetables (the purées are usually served separately), fried mushrooms, grilled or saut6ed served separately), fried mushrooms, grilled or sautéed tomatoes, spinach, braised chicory, noodles, risotto, etc. tomatoes, spinach, braised chicory, noodles, risotto, etc. (see GARNISHES). (see GARNISHES). According According to to the the garnish garnish chosen, chosen, serve serve with with Maitre Maître d'h6tel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters), or one of d'hôtel butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters), or one of the sauces specially recommended for grills: Diable, Italian, the sauces speciaHy recommended for grills: Diable, ltahan, Marrow, Piquant, Robert, etc. (see SAUCE). Marrow, Piquant, Robert, etc. (see SAUCE). DE Rrs DE vEAU AUx TRUFFES DE RIS DE VEAU AUX TRUFFES -

646 646

OIL OIL into two two categories: categories: siccative siccative In industry, oils are divided into (which thicken not turn turn rancid do not quick-drying oils (which or nl1'l"Lc_l1rVIInO thicken but do air), and non-siccative oils, which tend when exposed to the air), do not not thicken. thicken. to the the air, but but do to turn rancid when exposed to nt6rfrlQun -- Dieticians Dieticians and and HUILE EN eN DIÉTÉTIQUE OiI in OH in dietetics. dietetics. HUILE all gastronomes both agree that vegetable oils are the best of of ail gastronomes

fill the the hollowed-out hollowed-out parts with it. Bake Bake in a slow oven oyen l2 12 to fill 15 minutes. minutes. Arrange on a cro0ton. croûton. Serve with the garnish sauce recommended recommended in the recipe. recipe. and sauce rus DE DE VEAU VEAU TALLEYRAND TALLEYRANDCalves' sweetbreads sweetbreads Talleyrand. TaUeyrand. RIs Calves' Stud with with truffies. truffles, braise braise in brown brown stock as described described above, above, Stud Talleyrand sauce (see (see SAUCE) rnade made with with the serve with with Talleyrand serve boiled-down pan pan juices. boiled-down Toulousaine. Rrs RIS DE vEAU VEAU Calves' sweetbreads Toulouse Toulouse or Toulousaine. Calves'sweetbreads TOULOUSE, TouLousAINn TOULOUSAINE - Poach or braise in white stock Tout-ousE, and Allemande (see (see above). above). Serve Serve with with Toulouse garnish garnish and Allemande (see GARNboiled-down pan juices juices (see sauce made with the boiled-down ISHES; SAUCE). ISHES;SAUCE). Calves' sweetbreads with various vegetables. RJs rus DE DE vEAU VEAU Calves'sweetbreads (see above), above), and AUX r,6cuues LÉGUMES - Braise in brown brown stock stock (see Braise in nux various buttered or braised vegetables: vegetables: young garnish with various carrots, mushrooms, mushrooms, celery, celery, cipes, cèpes, chicory, chicory, cucumbers, cucumbers, carrots, endives, young beans, shoots of young hops, hops, kidney kidngy beans, ofyoung endives, glazed onions, French beans, beans, lettuce, Iettu ce , sweet corn, morels, morels, glazed French boiled-down pan juices. green peas and the boiled-down tongue. LANcuE LANGUE DE VEAU -- All Ail the the methods methods of DE vEAU Calfs tongue. given for beef or preparation given braised, with for beef or ox ox tongue: braised, garnishes, grilled, Italian grilled, àd la with ltalian la diable, diable, fried, with various garnishes, sauce, etc., can be used used for cooking tongue. cooking calf's tangue. (see Calf's tongue, cooked court'bouillon (see in aa special special court-bouillon cooked in Calf's tongue, is always always served served with Calf ss head), head), is recipe for for cooking cooking Calf' calf's head.

in the provided that they have not been been adulterated in food fats, provided process of manufacture.

It isis made made from from carefully oil. It ideal oil The ideal oil isis unrefined oil. The or grain, nuts which are are husked, husked, shelled shelled or fruit, which or fruit, selected grain, selected nuts or stoned as the case may be. stoned pressed in in aa hydra hydraulic are then then pressed The fruits fruits and and almonds are The ulic presses of presses is, in in aa cold cold press. Other Other types of press, ideally, that is, 60' of the product to between 60" can raise raise the the temperature of can v (140"0 and 194' 194"F.). 90"C. and 90 C. (140 F.). 'virgin' oil. guaranteed 'virgin' oil. ItIt isis The ail oil th thus obtained isis guaranteed The us obtained point of view and and isis the the of view culinary point the best from aa culinary considered the considered 'guaranteed labelled 'guaranteed authorised to to be be labelled which isis authorised only one one which only 'guaranteed first first cold-press cold-press of 'guaranteed addition of virgin oil'. The addition oil'. The virgin in its its have been been used used in no solvents that no solvents have extraction' indicates that manufacture. disrefined oils the use use of of refined oils isis disThis does does not not mean mean that that the This fact, sorne are harmful. In In fact, some oils oils are nor that that they they are are harmful. couraged, nor couraged, case with with Such isis the the case refined. Such not edible they are are refined. edible unless unless they not refined, their their Even though though refined, and peanut oils. oils. Even maize, soya and maize, may quality content may their vitamin vitarnin content is indisputable. Certainly Certainly their qua lit y is valuable many other they retain retain many other valuable but they be slightly slightly reduced, but be anticholesterol; soya soya for example, properties. Corn example, isis anticholesterol; properties. Corn oil, for rich in in albuminoids albuminoids for diabetics, since since itit isis rich excellent for oil oil isis excellent Nevertheless, gourmets in carbohydrates. carbohydrates. Nevertheless, and deficient deficient in and just as dietas the dietprefer to olive oil, oil; just to cook cook with with unrefined unrefined olive prefer prefer unrefined even sesame or or even unrefined sunflower, sunflower, sesame conscious conscious prefer pumpkin oil. pumpkin oil. fats.It food fats. of ail all food the best best of It Virgin Virgin olive olive oil oil isis undoubtedly undoubtedly the (for preferably in in its its raw raw state frequently and and preferably state (for should should be be used used frequently the in mind, mind, however, however, that that the seasoning, etc.), bearing bearing in seasoning, salads, salads, etc.), for aa 50 g.g. (1* oz.) oz.) for not to to exceed exceed 50 daily ought not fat ought daily intake intake of of fat very active active labourer or g. (2i for aa labourer or very sedentary adult; 65 oz.) for 65 g. sedentary adult; Q* oz.) individual. individual. D'AMANDES DOUCES DoucEs HUILE D'AMANDES Oïl bitter almonds. almonds. HUILE Oil of of sweet sweet and and bitter pr rurainrs - Extracted in linen and linen bags almonds put in bags and from almonds Extracted from confectionery. This oil used in confectionery. oil isis used subjected to pressure. This from cotton LOU(]ln-l5ee~(I cotton nuIls DE DE COTON coroN -- Extracted Extracted from oil. HUILE Cotton-seed oil. purified and seed. urand rendered rendered cola colourcan be Now that that this this oil oil can be purified seed. Now an ingredient ingredient ofvegetable of vegetable Jess, in cookery, chiefly as as an less, itit is is used cookery, chiefly used in cooking fats or oleomargarine. cooking fats or oleomargarine. (peanut oil). HUILE A clear, clear, GrOlmdnut nurle D'ARACHIDES D'ARAcHIDES - - A oil (peanut Groundnut oU non-siccative and tasteless and non-siccative ail oil extracted extracted from.peanuts. ItIt isis tasteless people who prefer an an odourless, who prefer table oil by by people and used used as as aa table odourless, and oil taste. without taste. oil entirely entirely without par excellence, Olive excellence,since since D'oLIvE -- The The oil oil par HUILE D'OLIVE Olive oïl. oil. HUILE 'oil'is There etymologically is derived 'olive', There from'olive'. derived from the ward word 'oil' etymologically the are grades of of olive olive oil. oil. are different different grades Pure is extracted finest fresh fresh olives, olives, which which from the thefinest Pureail oilis extracted cold cold from are ply crushed. has aa distinctive distinctive fiavour, flavour, isis This oil oil has are sim crushed. This simply greenish long time. fresh for greenish in for aa long time. and keeps keeps fresh in colour colour and pressure under Second heat.ItIt isis grade ail under heat. oil isis extracted extracted by by pressure Second grade quickly when white rancid more more quickly when in colour becomes rancid and becomes white in colour and air. to the the air. exposed to (lubricating ail) from windfalls windfalls extractedfrom Third grade ail oil (lubricating oil) isisextracted or preserved olives. treated with with olives.ItIt isis often often treated fermented or or preserved or fermented sulphate and rendered rendered neutralised and and then then neutralised of carbon, carbon, and sulphate of odourless. industrial use, use, but butisis for industrial intended only only for This oil oil isisintended odourless.This ail for adulteration, adulteration. all too too often used for often used Connoisseurs distinguish between the various 'vintages' of olive oil, and hold the oil of Provence in particularly high esteem. esteem. pALME - - This Palm normal DEPALME This oil solid atat nonnal HUILEDE oil isissolid Palm oiJ. oil. HUILE

POULTRY OFFAL also MEATS -- See See also VARIETY MEATS or VARIETY OFFAL or GIBLETS. prepared Chic ken livers. These are are prepared DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE -- These FoIEs DE livers. FOIES Chicken skewered, various garnrisotto, sautéed with various in aa pilaf or saut6ed with or risotto, skewered, in ishes, etc. They are also used as garnishes themselves, and as as garnishes particularly of an of Ài various forcemeats, forcemeats, particularly ingredient of an ingredient of various gratinforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS gratin forcemeat (see STUFFINGS). FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). Chicken DE BRocHETTES DE I'indienne. BROCHETTES on skewers skewers àI l'indienne. livers on Chicken livers pouLET À FOIES into livers into the trimmed trimmed Iivers Cut the A L'INDIENNE L'INDITNNS -- Cut ForEs DE POULET 33 or 4 pieces. Season fry in in sizzling and fry sizzling and pepper and salt and Season with salt butter. in rows, alternating rows, alterrlatmg metal skewers skewers in them on on metal butter. Thread them with blanched bacon cut in and sUces in thick slices of thick square square pieces and mushrooms, both in butter. lightly tossed tossed in butter. both Iightly Dip the threaded and left in in the in the butter the pan, and butter left threaded skewers skewers in roll fire. grated breadcrumbs. Grill on on aa brisk fire. breadcrumbs. Grill roll in in freshly freshly grated Serve (see RICE) sauce Curry sauce RICE) and and aa Curry l'indienne (see Rice àd l'indienne with Rice Serve with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Duck livers. FOIES prepared in in the the These are are prepared DE CANETON cANEToN -- These FoIEs DE same pilaf, poultry: on in aa pilaf, on skewers, skewers, in other poultry: as those those of of other same way as as garnishes. They They are are also also various garnishes. with various risotto, sautéed saut6ed with as aa risotto, used gratin for ÀA gratin in forcemeats, forcemeats, especially for an ingredient ingredient in used as as an forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). FORCEMEATS or forcemeat (see pArss OFFICINALES OFFICINAL Substances oFFIcINALES -- Substances OFFICINAL PASTILLES. PASTILLES. PÂTES of (small aromatic confections, usually usually aromatic confections, firm consistency consistency (small of aa firm hard jujubes), which jelly jujubes), the fingers fingers gums or do not not stick to the which do stick ta hard gums or jelly and gum and in water, dissolved in water, and sugar composed of of gum sugar dissolved and are are composed with They are are medicaments. They or medicaments. flavourings or with aromatic aromatic flavourings transparent if to the the moulded and and brought brought to have been if they they have been moulded right evaporation and process of and dried dried ofevaporation right consistency consistency by by aa slow slow process in have been evaporated been evaporated drying oyen, and opaque opaque ifif they have in aa drying oven, and with aa wooden wooden spoon. and stirred with in a very high high temperature and light coating of with aa light 'sugared pastilles' are are covered covered with crJ"statll!~;ed quality. keeping quality. increases their their keeping which increases crystallised sugar, sugar, which

OGNONNADE containing aa Stew containing or OIGNONADE OIGNONADE -- Stew OGNONNADE or large to finely finely proportion of also applies applies to The term term also large proportion of onions. onions. The chopped in white white wine. wine. in butter cooked in butter or or cooked melted in chopped onion, onion, melted OIL. temperatures. normal '
647 647

OILLE OILLE

Pounding Pounding olives (after Stradanus) olives LO oil (afLer to extract extract olive olive oil Stradanus)

temperatures. It is used in cooking by Africans. Africans. In In the West, it is chiefty used in the manufacture chiefly used manufacture of soap. Poppy-seed oïl. nurrE D'OILLETTE oil. HUILE D'orLLErrE -- Extracted Extracted from from the seeds of of the black, white or purple poppy. A quick-drying quick-drying oil, oil, which is used a great deal deal as as aa table oil in northern France in northern and in Paris because of its and its lack lack of taste. taste. It is is called called huile blanche France. blanche in France. Sesame HUILE DE Sesame oil. sunr oB SÉSAME s6snur -- Extracted from the seeds seeds of the sesame sesame plant, plant, grown in warm climates. c1imates. It has has aa rich nutty ftavour and is non-siccative. It is a a staple food food in India and flavour the Orient Orient and and is is growing growing increasingly increasingly popular popular in the in the preparing confectionery baked foods. Western world in preparing confectionery and baked HUILE DE DE cRUSrAcss CRUSTACES - Pound Pound finely finely in in aa Shellfisb oil. oïl. sunr Shellfish and shells shells of shellfish of which the the mortar the trimmings and has been been used used for some other other purpose. purpose. While While pounding, pounding, ftesh has flesh add olive olive oil, equivalent in weight to to the the shells. shells. Pound add thoroughly with the the pestle pestle so so as as to obtain obtain aa smooth mixture. mixture. thoroughly Rub the the first through through a fine sieve and then then strain through Rub coarse muslin. muslin. coarse This mixture mixture is is used to to season season mayonnaise mayonnaise and other other cold This as aa seasoning seasoning in in shellfish shellfish and fish fish salads, salads, and in the the sauces, as sauces, preparation preparation of of cold cold hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Walnut oil. oïl. nurrE HUILE DE DE Norx NOIX - A quick-drying oil. oil. The pure Walnut - A quick-drying oil extracted extracted cold co Id from from dried walnuts walnuts is used used in cookery. cookery. oil has aa very very pronounced pronounced nutty nutty flavour, fiavour, well well liked liked by by some some ItIt has people but but disliked disliked by by those those who who are are unaccustomed unaccustomed to to it. il. people Walnut oil oil extracted extracted under under heat heat is is not not edible. edible. Walnut

south-west south-west of of France France isis used to describe used to describe an pot an earthenware earthenware pot in in which which this prepared. this dish dish isis prepared. There The first There are are three kinds of three kinds oilles.The of oilles. first isis an an old old French French soup which, which, in in the the days days of Louis XIII, of Louis XIII, was grandwas called called grandouille ouille and and which is is the the ouille-en-pot ouille-en-pot mentioned mentioned in in the the letters letters of Madame de de Maintenon. Maintenon. The The second is olla-podrida, second is olla-podrida, aa complicated complicated dish dish of foreign of foreign origin. origin. Spanish Spanish ambassadors ambassadors served part of served this this dish dish as as aa part of diplomatic representation and and official official ceremonial. ceremonial. Protocol Protocol decreed decreed that that this this soup soup be be served served for for aa dinner given for dinner given for aa Spanish grandee. Spanish grandee. The française. The third third is is oille-moderne oille-moderne àd la lafrangaise. Here is according to is the preparing this method of the method of preparing this oille, oille,according to an an old recipe: old recipe: 'Take aa plump plump chicken chicken and and 22 big pigeons. Trim big pigeons. Trim and and c1ean clean them and them and stuffwith stuffwith aa forcemeat forcemeat composed composed of crustless bread of crustless bread soaked in stock, blended with 8 egg yolks, 1 white onion soaked in stock, blended with 8 egg yolks, I white onion baked on on hot hot coals, baked coals, and and 33 chopped chopped artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, the the whole seasoned with aa few few leaves whole seasoned with leaves of of chervil chervil and pinch of and aa pinch of nutmeg. Sew up the the 33 birds to keep grated nutmeg. Sew up birds to in the keep in the forcemeat, forcemeat, and truss them, to prevent deformation during cooking. and truss them, to prevent deformation during cooking. Take an an earthenware earthenware pot, pot, put put into into it it 66 or Take pounds of or 88 pounds of beef beef cut into into thin thin slices, slices, I1 veal veal knuckle knuckle cut into 44 pieces, pieces, 33 onions, cut cut into onions, parsnip, 2 2 carrots, carrots, 2 2 turnips, turnips, 22 white white leeks leeks tied tied with I1 parsnip, with 22 stalks of of purslane, purslane, orach orach and and Swiss this foundafoundastalks Swiss chard. chard. On On this tion put put the the stuffed stuffed birds. birds. First First heat heat on on a a very very hot hot fire, fire, then then tion pot on on a a moderate moderate heat. heat. Remove Remove scum scum and and leave leave place the the pot place simmer gently. gently. After After 55 hours'cooking, hours' cooking, cut crusts of ofbread, to simmer to cut crusts bread, toast them them lightly, lightly, put put into into dish, dish, moisten moisten with with stock, stock, and and toast simmer. Arrange the chicken and the pigeons but none of simmer. Arrange the chicken and the pigeons but none of the other other meat meat on on the the toasted toasted bread, bread, untruss untruss the the 3 3 birds, birds, the strain the the stock stock to to remove rem ove fat, fat, and and pour pour over over the the oille.' oille.' strain

OILLE -- In In the the olden olden days days the the name na me oille oille was was applied applied to to aa OILLE ofpotie potée made made of of various various meats meats and and vegetables. vegetables. kind of knd The word, word, according according to to some some authorities, authorities, comes comes from from the the The Spanish olla,but alla, but itit probably probably derives derives from from oule, oule, which which in in the the Spanish 648 648

OLIVE OLIVE OISEAUX OISEAUX SANS SANS TETE TÊTE -- Name Name given given in in some sorne regions regions to to stutfed fillets fillets of ofvarious various meats, meats, particularly particularly beef. beef. stuffed Oiseaux sans sans t6te tête 'Loose 'Loose vinken' vinken' (Belgian (Belgian cookery) cookery) -- Beat Beat Oiseaux slices of ofbeefuntil very thin. thin. Season, Season, put put aa little little sausage sausage meat, meat, beef until very slices of lean lean blanched blanched bacon, bacon, in in the the or, ififpreferred, preferred, aa small small piece piece of or, up the the slices slices and and tie tie with with string. string. middle, roll roll up middle, Fry these these in in butter butter or or lard, lard, with with sliced sliced onions. onions. When When they they Fry are browned browned on on all ail sides, sides, sprinkle sprinkle with with flour, f1our, moisten moisten either either are with beer beer or or stock stock in in sufficient sufficient quantity quantityjust just to to cover cover the the rolls. rolls. with Cook gently, gently, covered, covered, and and serve serve in in the the same dish. dish. Cook

Blanch and drain Okra Okra in in butter. butter. coMBos GOMBOS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Blanch and drain the the okra. okra. Put Put them them in in aa buttered buttered frying frying pan. pan. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons consomm6 consommé or or water. water. garnish for eggs as a is used This Cover, and cook cook slowly. slowly. This is used as a garnish for eggs Cover, and cooked cooked in in various various ways, ways, for for braised braised fish, fish, individual individual servings servings or of of meat, meat, or or poultry. poultry. If If okra okra is is to to be be served served with with meat meat or of juices should poultry, poultry, the the pan panjuices should be be added added just just before before the the end end of as aa separate separate served as also be cooking. cooking. Okra Okra in in butter butter may may also be served vegetable. vegetable. for as for the okra okra as Cook the cnirran -- Cook Okra Okra in in cream. cream. coMBos GOMBOS IÀ u LA CRÈME Cream cover with with aa Cream Okra Okra in in butter. buller. When When they they are are ready, ready, cover minutes. few minutes. for aa few them simmer simmer for sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Let Let them sauce (see Serve Serve in in aa deep deep dish. dish. the okra okra Prepare the cnfoln -- Prepare l, LA rl CRÉOLE Okra Okra ài la la Creole. Créole. coMBos GOMBOS À with satfron. saffron. them with seasoning them santce, seasoning tomato sauce, in LOmaLO as as for for Okra Okra in meat stock. stock. with meat cooked with of rice, cooked border ofrice, dish with Serve in Serve in aa dish with aa border Drain the okra. okra. Drain Blanch the FRITors -- Blanch EN FRlTOTS coMBos EN Fried Fried okra. GOMBOS oil, in oil, an hour hour in for half half an them for Soak them cloth. Soak them v/ith and dry them with aa cloth.

in pepper. Dip Dip in juice, chopped and pepper. parsley, salt salt and chopped parsley, lemon lemon juice, deep-fry. and deep-fry. (see BATIERS FRYING) and FOR FRYING) BATTERS FOR frying frying batter (see lemon. parsley and and lemon. fried parsley with fried Garnish with Garnish the Brown the rou-nre -- Brown ra TOMATE coMBos ÀA LA sauce. GOMBOS Okra in tomato sauce. Okra chopped large onion, onion, chopped pan in in which which 1I large frying pan in aa frying lightly in okra lightly kg. Add 1I kg. tender. Add in oil until tender. oil until cooked in has been slowly cooked fine, has been slowly fine, chopped and coarsely coarsely chopped peeled, seeded (2+ lb.) seeded and and 44 peeled, lb.) okra, okra, and (2* garlic. Cover cook and cook Cover and of garlic. clove of Add aa clove Season. Add tomatoes. Season. tomatoes. 45 minutes. minutes. for 45 slowly for dried okra, okra, Use dried rl, TURQUE runQus -- Use coMBos,A, la turque. turque. GOMBOS Okra àt la Okra À LA in found in to be be found are usuaIly usually to These are bamia. These called bamia. which isis caIled which food stores. stores. oriental food oriental (white) bean. them Steep them bean. Steep haricot (white) pod isis the of aa haricot the size size of Each pod Each Brown them. Brown Drain them. water. Drain in cold cold water. 12 hours hours in least 12 for at at least for chopped medium-sized chopped and 1I medium-sized (4 oz.) mutton and diced mutton g. (4 lean diced oz.) lean 100 g. 100 lightly' Moisten Moisten and brown brown lightly. lb.) okra okra and ke.Qt Add 1I kg. onion. Add (2* lb.) onion. Add aa Season. Add or water. water. Season. soup or clear soup few tablespoons tablespoons c1ear with aa few with cook slowly. slowly. pepper. Cover and cook Cover and pinch of of cayenne cayenne pepper. pinch

Okra

of OKRA FIN GERS. GOMBO, Plant of coMBAUr -- Plant coMBo, GOMBAUT or LADIES' LADIES'FINGERS. OKRA or the and America and prolific in in South South America very prolific family, very mallow family, the mallow southern where itit isis India where and lndia Africa and West Africa States, West United States, southern United cultivated as aa vegetable. vegetable. and eaten eaten as cultivated and There them most of of them species, most different species, of ditferent number of There are are aa number edible. one pods which areeaten, eaten, but but one whichare the pods In most most cases cases itit isis the edible. In species, are leaveswhich whichare has sorrel-Iike sorrel-like Ieaves Guinea, has from New New Guinea, species, from eaten like sorrel. sorrel. eaten like The pods isis known known asas edible pods variety with with edible The best-known best-known variety okra asbamia. bamia. and inin France Franceas gumbo, or Near East East and the Near in the or in okra or or gumbo, Another marshmallow, royalmarshmallow, the royal calledthe commonly called Another variety, variety, commonly juicy whose bears aajuicy hollyhock, bears of the the hollyhock, like those those of flowers are are like whose f10wers fruit preparation of ofaa in the the preparation used in France; itit isis used fruit called called nafé nafi inin France; poultice poultice for for the the chest. chest. Okra, are theyare fresh when whenthey areeaten eaten fresh fingers, are ladies' fingers, or ladies' Okra, or young for keptfor driedand andkept They can canalso alsobe bedried young with tenderseeds. seeds.They with tender aalong (white) beans should andshould beansand look like like haricot haricot (white) They look long time. time.They be use. water before beforeuse. warm water inwarm besteeped steeped in However alwaysbe be prepared,okra okrashould shouldalways to be beprepared, areto However they theyare slightly water. salt water. firstininsalt blanchedfirst slightlyblanched Okra Chop AUGRAS GRAS- -Chop snns6sAU bacon.GOMBOS coMBosBRAISÉS with bacon. braised with Okrabraised onions themininaa Putthem tender.Put very tender. untilvery butter until and cook cookininbutter onions and shallow lean ofblanched blanchedlean slicesof linedwith withslices saucepanlined butteredsaucepan shallow buttered bacon. the themon onthe laythem andlay drainthe theokra okraand anddrain Blanch and bacon. Blanch onions. butter. fotOkra Okraininbuller. therecipe recipefor described ininthe Cookasasdescribed onions. Cook Arrange they dishininwhich whichthey thedish ringon onthe ofbacon bacon ininaaring Arrange slices slices of are middle. themiddle. theokra okraininthe Placethe beserved. served.Place aretotobe

branch Olivebranch Olive fruits withfruits with

but countries, but Mediterranean countries, easternMediterranean OLIVE Native of ofeastern OLM - - Native well regions,asasweIl Mediterranean regions, theMediterranean grownthroughout throughoutthe now nowgrown cultivated hasbeen beencultivated areas.ItIthas asasinintropical andsub-tropical sub-tropical areas. tropicaland grownininEgypt Egyptinin yearsand recordedasasgrown andisisrecorded for ofyears forhundreds hundredsof grownininSouth South arealso alsogrown B.C.Olives Olivesare the centuryB.C. theseventeenth seventeenthcentury andCalifomia California intoMexico Mexicoand introducedinto wereintroduced Australia. Theywere Australia. They now arenow andare missionaries and byJesuit Jesuitmissionaries ininthe centuryby theseventeenth seventeenthcentury very there. abundantthere. veryabundant term Latintenn theLatin primarilyfor foritsitsoil; oil;the grownprimarily The fruitisisgrown Thefruit (seeOIL). OIL). oil(see oliveoil (olea) (otea)applies exclusivelytotoolive appliesexclusively usedasas areused berries'are hard-stoned berries, The arehard-stoned whichare olives,which Theolives, forms: twoforms: condiment, hors-d'auvreinintwo andhors-d'œuvre seasoningand condiment, seasoning 649 649

OLIVET CHEESE OLIVET CHEESE bigonions, onions,1 cabbage, gllY),2 2big I cabbage,2 2heads headsofoflettuce, potatoes, only), lettuce, 8 gpotatoes, (18oz.) 50-0g.g.(18 oz.)chick-peas (garbanzos).weil chick-peas(garbanzos), wellsoaked; sojked;garlic, garlic, 500 pepperand salt,pepper anda alarge largebouquet bouquetgarni garni(q.v.). (q.v.). salt, Method.Put Putailallthe themeat, fteatrexcept exceptthe thechicken, chicken,partridge partridge Method. andchorizos, chorizos,into intoa apit pitpot. pot.Cover Coverwith plentyofofcold withplenty coldwater. wate-r. and Seasonwith withsalt, salt,ma making allowancesfor forthe ttresalt saltcontent contentofof Season king allowances someofofthe themeats. meats.Bring Bringtotothe theboil, boil,rem remove scum.and andadd add sorne ove scum, putininthe crushedgarlic garlicand anda abouquet garni.Put bouquetgarni. thechick-peas, chick-peas, crushed previouslyweil wellsoaked soakedinincold coldwater. water.Cook Cookfor for22hours. hours. previously Addthe thechicken chickenand partridges(lightly andpartridges (lightly browned) browned) together together Add withthe thechorizos; chorizos; cook cookfor for3030minutes. minutes.Add Addthe thevarious ui.iou, with vege-tablesroughly roughly sliced, sliced,except except the potatoes, which, the potatoes, which, vegetables similarlysliced, sliced,shoold shouldbe putinto beput intothe thesoup souponly only35 35minutes minutes similarly before serving. before serving. gentlyfor Simmer gently for22hours. hours. As Ascooking progresses, take cookingprogresses, take Simmer out the themeats meatswhich which are aredone; done;sorne somebeing beingmore tenderthan than out more tender otherswill will require require less lesstime. time. others Arrange all allthe themeats meatsand and the thevegetables vegetables on onaabig bigdish dish and and Arrange serve the thesoup soupininaasoup souptureen. tureen. serve

OLORON -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. OLORON OMELETTES -- See SeeEGGS. EGGS. OMELETTES

OMMBUS -- In In restaurant restaurant terminology terminology (Paris (paris restaurants restaurants OMNIBUS particularly) this this name name isis applied applied to to the the commis, commis, or particularly) or chef's chef's assistant or or waiter, waiter, whose whose work work consists consists of passing on of passing on the the assistant orders to to the the kitchen kitchen and and fetching fetching the the food food from froir there. there. orders Omnibus isis aa kind kind of apprentice. of apprentice. Omnibus persia is ONAGER. oNAGRE Wild ass ass which which in in Persia is considered considered ONAGER. ONAGRE -- Wild highly prized prized game. game. This This is is the the wild wild ass ass of of the the Bible. Bible. highly

Gathering olives at St Jean de Fos, H6rault Gathering at St Jean de Fos, Hérault (Frencholives Goverrunent Tourist Offr ce)

(French Government Tourist Office)

Green olives. Picked unripe, treated with hot, weak alkali Green olives. un ripe, treated with hot, weak alkali (potassium or Picked ash solution), which removes their bitter (potassium or pickled ash solution), which removes their bitter taste, and then in spiced brine. taste, and then pickled in spiced brine. Black olives. Picked ripe, washed in several waters, put Black olives. Picked ripe, washed in several waters, put intb boiling brine without the alkali treatment. then dried into boiling in brine and pickled oil. without the alkali treatment, then dried andThe pickled in of oil. species olives known in French as picholines are The species of olives known in French as picholines are cultivated spggially for the table. They are large-, of elongated cultivated specially for the table. They are large, of elongated form and reddish-black colour. form andwith reddish-black col our. Ollves anchovy butter. olrvEs AUx BEURRE D'ANcHors Olivesand witbdry anchovy butter. OLIVES AUX pound BEURRE D'ANCHOIS Wash anchovy fillets. -- Wash and dry 55 salted anchovy fillets. Pound in in aa mortar mortar and add 60 g. Q* salted oz., 5 tablespoons) butter. Mix, season and add 60 g. (2! oz., 5 tablespoons) butter. Mix, with pepper, and rub through a sieve. Stuff stoned season with this pepper, and rub through a sieve. Stuff stoned olives olives with mixture through a paper forcing bag. with this mixture through a paper forcing bag. Oliyeltor garnish Stone the olives foror garnisb -- Stone the olives with with aipecial a special utensil utensil or Olives a knife, buy stoned olives. Blanch them, drain and or a knife, or buy stoned olives. Blanch them, and rinse in cold water. Put in to simmer with the dish drain for rinse in coldiswater. Put in to simmer with the dish for which which garnish the intended. the garnish is intended. Stufred olives for garnish - Stone big olives, blanch for 3 Stuffedrinse olives garnish - Stone big olives, blanch for 3 minutes, in for cold water and drain. minutes, rinse in cold water and drain. Stuff with (see Quenelle Stuff with Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS FORCE MEATS or or STUFFINGS) mixed withfines herbes or chopped truffies, STUFFINGS) mixed with fines herbes or chopped trufHes, depending on the nature of the dish. depending on the nature of the dish. OLMT CHEESE - See CHEESE. OLIVET CHEESE - See CHEESE. OLL\-PODRIDA - Spanish soup in a grand style, someOLLA-PODRIDA - Spanish soup in a grand style, somewhat similar to the hochepot flamind. what to the hochepotflamand. Thesimilar French translation of the word is pot-pourri. This The French translation of the word is pot-pourri. This tgrm, in the olden days, was used term, in the olden days, was used to to describeiot describe not aa soup, soup, but a stew made of various tneats. but a stew made of various meats. The word olla-podrida is rarely used nowadays to describe - The word olla-podrida is rarely used nowadays to describe thisrrational soup, which is also called puchero or cocida. this soup, which is also called puchero or cocido. Thenational following recipe for an olla-poctrida is intended for The following recipe for an olla-podrida is intended for twenty guests. twenty guests. Ir-Srr4t:"ts. 2 kg. (4+ lb.) beef (brisket or forequarter 2 kg. (4! lb.) beef (brisket or forequarter - Ingredients. flank), 590 g. (18 oz.) shoulder of mutton, 500 g. (ig oz.) flank),of500 g. (18 oz.) shoulder of mutton, 500 g. (18 oz.) breast mutton, 500 g. (18 oz.) uncooked trat,'SOOI breast of mutton, 500 g. (18 oz.) uncooked ham, 500 g. (19 g".l salt pork, 2 each pig's ears, feet and tails, i pluni (18 oz.) salt pork, ears, feet and taits, 1 plump chicken,.2 partridges2 each (whenpig's in season),66chorizoi chorizos(Spanish (Spanish chicken, 2 partridges (when inseason), sausages). sausages). Vegetables: 4 medium-large carrots, g big leeks (white Vegetables: 4 medium-large carrots, 8 big leeks (white

OMON. OIGNON orcNoN -- Biennial Biennial plant, plant, native native of of Asia Asia and ONION. and Palestine, which which has has been been cultivated cultivated from from earliest earliest times. Palestine, This vegetable vegetable of of the the Liliaceae Liliaceae family family was so so greatly prized This in Egypt Egypt that that it it was was worshipped. worshipped. in The bulb bulb has has many many concentric concentric coats. coats. It It con contains The tains aa strong and sulphuretted essence, essence, which causes causes watering watering of and acrid acrid sulphuretted oT the of the skin, skin, but disappears disappears in-the the eyes eyes and and rubefaction rubefaction of in the cooking cooking process. process. Its Its taste taste is is pungent. pungent. Raw Raw onion onion is is rather rather indigestible indigestible and and should be eaten irr in moderation. moderation. Chopped Cbopped onion. onion. orcNoNs OIGNONS ulcrss HACHÉS - peel Peel the onion, cut in half; half; cut cut each each half ha If into into very very thin thin slices without without separating them them from from the the root, root, and and make make 55 to to 66 horizontal horizontal cuts cuts througfi through the the whole whole thickness thickness of of the the onion. onion. Now Now cut cut the the onion onion again again vertically. vertically. you You will will thus th us have have minute minute dice dice which which will will need need very very littie little chopping chopping to to obtain obtain finely finely chopped chopped onion. onion. Ifprepared If prepared in in advance, advance, itit should should be be tied tied in in aa corner corner ofa of a .revive'it. Then cloth cloth and and placed placed under under aa cold cold water water tap tap to to 'revive' it. Then squeeze squeeze the the onion onion ir in the the cloth c10th to to drain drain itit well, weil, and and spread spread itit in in aa saucer. saucer. Proceed in the the same same way way ifif very very white white chopped chopped onion onion isis Proceed in required required as as an an accompaniment accompaniment for for calf's calf's head, head, or or any any dish dish dàla la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. Fried Fried onlons. onions. orcNoNs OIGNONS FRrrs FRITS -- Cut Cut medium-sized medium-sized onions onions into into round round slices slices about about! cm. ($(i inch) inch) thick. thick. Shake Shake out out the the * cm. slices slicesinto intorings. rings. Season Season with with salt, salt, dredge dredge with with flour flour and and fry fry inin smoking smoking hot hot oil. oil. Drain Drain the the onions, onions, dry dry on on aa cloth cloth and and sprinkle sprinklewith withsalt. salt. Fried Fried onions on ions are are used used as as aa garnish, garnish, particularly particularly for for Entrecdte Entrecôtedàlalatyrolienne tyrolienne(see (seeBEEF) BEEF) and and Chicken,oui| Chicken sautéaàbla bor delaise (see bordelaise (seeCHICKEN). CHICKEN). Onions Onionsfried friedininbatter. batter.orcNoNs OIGNONSEN ENFRrror FRITOT- - Cut Cutthe theonions onions into intoround round slices, slices,asasdescribed described above. above. Shake Shakeout outthe theslices slices into intorings. rings. Season Seasonwith with salt saltand and pepper pepperand and sprinkle sprinkle with with oila1d andlemon lemonjuice. juice.Leave Leavetotomarinatl marinateininthis thissiasoning seasoningfor for 9i-t 30 30minutes. minutes.Shake Shakedrv. dry. 650 650

ORANGE ORANGE brown brown veal veal stock, stock, bring bring to to the the boil boil with with aa lid !id on on the the pan pan and and finish cooking in in the the oven, oyen, basting basting frequently, frequently, to to glaze glaze the the finish cooking from the oven, onions. few moments moments before before removing removing from the oyen, onions. A A few sprinkle or fresh fresh breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and sprinkle the the surface surface with with toasted toasted or brown brown the the top. top. sweet Spanish This This method method is is applied applied mainly mainly to to sweet Spanish onions. onions. are They They may may be be served served separately, separately, as as a a vegetable, vegetable, but but are principally as aa garnish. garnish. principally used used as FARcIs A oIcNoNs FARCIS onions i la Stuffed Stuffedonionsà la catalane. catalane. OIGNONS À LA LA cATALANE CATALANE with aa Stuff them described above. onions as as described above. Stulf them with - Prepare the onions sweet in meat stock, sweet mixture mixture of of chopped chopped onion, onion, rice rice cooked cooked in meat stock, eggs and hard chopped, and pimentos, and chopped, pimentos, stewed in in oil oil and hard boiled boiled eggsthe stuffed stuffed and spiced. spiced. Put seasoned and the the whole well weil blended, blended, seasoned Pu t the in enough enough dish. Pour oven-proof dish. onions into into a well-oiled, well-oiled, oven-proof Pour in gently in in the the and cook cook gently halfway and cover the stock to coyer the onions halfway stock to from the the oyen, oven, removing from before removing few moments oven. oyen. A A few moments before top. the top. brown the and brown sprinkle with sprinkle with white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and parisienne. OIGNONS oIGNoNs la parisienne. called àI la Ia duxelles, duxelles, called Stuffed onions ài la Stuffed plnrstENNu) -- Prepare (i, LA the onions onions Prepare the rl PARISIENNE) ouxslrEs (À FARcrs À A r..l FARCIS LA DUXELLES chopped onions, onions, mixture of of chopped Stuffwith described above. as described above. Stulf with aa mixture lean, cooked (see SAUCE) cooked chopped, lean, and chopped, SAUCE) and sauce (see Duxelles sauce manner. in the the usual usual manner. ham. Braise in FARcIS À A L'ITALIENNEL'ITALIENNEI'italienne. OIGNONS oIGNoNs FARCIS Stuffed onions àI l'italienne. Stuffed with aa them with above. Stuff Stuff them described above. as described the on onions Prepare the Prepare ions as cooked and chopped chopped cooked onions and with chopped chopped onions ri$otto, mixed mixed with risotto, few moments moments before before A few manner. A in the usual manner. lean ham. Braise in grated Parmesan Parmesan with grated sprinkle with the oyen, oven, sprinkle from the removing from removing the top. and brown brown the and

Dip the the onion onion rings rings into into light light batter batter and and fry. fry. Onions Onions fried fried Dip in in this this way way are are used used as as aa garnish. garnish. Glazed onions. onions. oIGNoNs OIGNONS crlcfs GLACÉS -- White: White: Skin Skin button button Glazed onions. onions. Put Put them them into into a a shallow shallow pan pan with with enough enough white white stock almost almost to to cover coyer them. them. Add butter, butter, allowing alJowing 125 125 g. g. stock (4 (4 oz., oz., generous generous *!- cup) cup) per per litre litre (lf (Il pints, pints, generous generous quart) of of liquid. Season Season and and simmer simmer with with aa lid lid on. on. Turn Turn the the onions on ions in in liquid. gltze -- so that they their liquor, !iquor, boiled boiled down down to to a a glaze they can be be their coated with with this this glaze glaze all ail over. over. coated Brown: Heat Heat some sorne butter butter in in aa shallow shallow pan pan and put put in the the Brown: of castor castor sugar. sugar. Cook, Cook, onions. Season Season with with salt salt and and aa pinch pinch of onions. moderate heat, heat, in such such a way as to allow the covered, on aa moderate onions to cook cook and acquire acquire their their colour colour at the same time. onions onions for for garnish. garnish. oIGNoNs OIGNONS cl,Ac6s GLACÉS (roun (POUR cARNIGARNIGlazed onions TURES) -- See See GARNISHES. GARNISHES. runrs) Onions ià la la grecque grecque (Hors'd'nuwe). (Hors-d'œuvre). otcNoNs OIGNONS A À rl LA Onions GRECQUE -- Skin small uniform-sizpd uniform-sized onions. Blanch them, cREceuE dip in cold cold water and and drain. drain. Cook Cook in in a a court-bouillon as dip (see HORSHORSindicated for for Artichokes Artichokes d à la la grecque grecque (see indicated D'ŒUVRE). Leave Leave to cool in the court'bouillon. court-bouillon. D'(EUVRE). A r'oRIEttrALE OniODS iàI'orientale l'orientale (Hors.d'cuwe). (Hors-d'œuvre). otcwoNs OIGNONS À L'ORIENTALE Oniom salted water medium-sized onions thoroughly in in salted -- Blanch medium'sized rem ove three-quarters of the insides. and remove (using the Stulf with with a a composition composition of chopped chopped onion (using Stuff in stock, scooped-out parts), half its weight of rice cooked in (see FONDUE) with oil oil and Tomato fondue (see cooked with FONDUE) cooked Tomato fondue fiavoured garlic, and sweet pimentos, stewed stewed in butter flavoured with garlic, and the stulfed stuffed onions with salfron. saffron. Put the and chopped. Season with oven, sprinkle with oil, bake slowly in the oyen, into an oiled dish, sprinkle and Id before serving. cold and leave to get co Onion purée Onion soubise. pur6i or soubise -- See PURÉE, PURE,E, anion for Onion various recipes for See various A L'OIGNON I'otcnoN -- See soupE À Onion soup. soup. SOUPE AND SOUPS AND the in the the section preparation of this soup in section SOUPS this soup the preparation BROTHS.

herbs of the of the thistle-like herbs coarse thistle-Iike Genus of of coarse ONOPORDON -- Genus ONOPORDON is aa species is One species called Onopordum. family; also also called Onopordum. One Compositae family; Compositae roadsides. grows on and roadsides. hillsides and on hillsides which grows wild artichoke, artichoke, whkh wild plant are as cultivated cultivated are eaten eaten as this plant of this receptacles of leaf receptacles The leaf The the and the as cardoons cardoons and also eaten eaten as are also The stalks stalks arc artichokes. The artichokes. as salsify. salsify. roots as roots

which isis Mediterranean which in the the Mediterranean Fish caught caught in AnHIE -- Fish ONOS. APHIE ONOS. rockling. also called called rockling. also the rockling rockling isis of the the flesh flesh of that the maintain that doctors maintain Some doctors Sorne the in the the opinion opinion of of the not so so in was not This was very indigestible. indigestible. This very justly, greatly its for its fish for greatly appreciated this fish appreciated this who, justly, ancients who, ancients prepared like whiting. like whiting. It isis prepared flesh. It very nourishing nourishing fiesh. very fish similar similar Mediterranean fish Small Mediterranean DoNZELLE -- Small OPHIDruM. DONZELLE OPHIDIUM. and demoiselle and in France as demoiselle France as known in sometimes known to the the eel. eel. 1Itt isis sometimes to ingredient of (potter's wheel). of girelle (potter's fish isis used an ingredient This fish used as as an wheel). This girelle (q.v.). bouillabaisse bouillabaisse (q.v.). which hare, which of aahare, reaching the thesize size of Marsupial, reaching OPOSSUM OPOSSUM -- Marsupial, fleshisis The fiesh America.The North America. regions of of North in certain certain regions abounds in abounds that of rabbit. of rabbit. resembles that and resembles edible edible and

Preparing (C/cire) stuffed anions onions (Claire) Preparing stuffed

of name of Common name lnnocHn - - Common or ORACHE. ORACHE. ARROCHE ORACH or ORACH gardens, plants frequently cultivated inin gardens, frequently cultivated of plants species of several species several of theleaves leaves of spinach,the mountain spinach, type called called mountain among them themaa type among this isis U.S.A. this likespinach. spinach.InIn U.S.A. cooked like which are are eaten, eaten, cooked which purslane. seapurslane. spinach or French spinach orsea called French called

Stuffed medium-sized Peel medium-sized FARcIs- - Peel oIGNoNs FARCIS Stuffed OniODS. onions. OIGNONS onions, layer'Cut first white white layer. Cut thefirst damage the to damage not ta taking care care not onions, taking transversely, oftheir three-quartersoftheir end,at atabout about three-quarters at the thestalk stalk end, transversely, at height. plunge into intocold cold water, plunge salted water, thoroughly inin salted height. Blanch Blanch thoroughly water drain. water and anddrain. Remove roundof two allround oftwo leaving aa thickness thicknessail inside, leaving the inside, Remove the layers partfinely and finely and the scooped-out scooped-out part Chop the layersof ofonion onion skins. skins.Chop (see mix forcemeat (see mutton forcemeat pork, veaJ, veal, beef ormutton beef or with sorne mix with some pork, FORCEMEA TS or orSTUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). FORCEMEATS Stulfthe putthem intoaabuttered buttered theminto mixture, put with this this mixture, Stuffthe onions onions with sauté thickened slightly thickened fewtablespoons tablespoons slightly pan, moisten moistenwith withaafew saut6pan,

tree. orange tree. of the theorange Fruitof ORANGE. ORANGE. Fruit with treewith (Citrussinensis) anelegant eleganttree sinensis')isisan tree(Citrus The orange orange tree The fruit' ItIt aromatic fruit. andsweet, sweet,aromatic pleasantlyscented blossomand pleasantly scented blossom andCochin-China. Cochin-China. originated China and originated ininChina sweet thesweet notknow knowthe didnot Romans did the Romans andthe TheGreeks Greeks and The orange perhaps know the bitter bitterorange know the did perhaps orange, theydid but they orange, but nagrunga, wasnagrunga, ofthis thiswas nameof (Citrus aurantium). TheSanscrit Sanscrit name (Citrus aurantium).The Latin theLatin andd'aranzi, d'aranzi,the naranziand wordsnaranzi Italianwords from theItalian fromwhich whichthe and arangium,and arantium,arangium, (of the ofarantium, Ages)of Middle Ages) terms theMiddle terms (of wordorangeorange producedthe Frenchword theFrench whichproduced later, aurantium- -which later,aurantium were derived. wereail allderived. into fromPalestine Palestine into orangesfrom bitteroranges The brought bitter Thecrusaders crusaders brought south andthe thesouth intoSpain Spain and theminto introduced them Italy. Italy.The TheArabs Arabs introduced

651 651

ORANGE )RANGE

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of France, as well as into East Africa. Nice has been trading of France, as weil as into East Africa. Nice has been trading in bitter oranges since 1332. in bitter oranges since 1332. A historic orange tree, tree, planted 1422, by El6onore de de A historic orange planted in in 1422, by Eléonore Castille, of Charles Castille, the the wife wife of Charles III, III, the the King King of of Navarre, Navarre, came came into the possession of the Constable of into the possession of the Constable of Bourbon. Bourbon, was was confiscated with all his possessions in 1552 and later graced confiscated with ail his possessions in 1552 and later graced first the gardens of Fontainebleau, under the name oi Lord first the gardens of Fontainebleau, under the name of Lord High Constable, High Constable, then then the the gardens gardens of of Versailles. Versailles. It It died died in in l 858. 1858. The sweet orange tree is classified as a native of China and The sweet orange tree is classitied as a native of China and the Chinese consider oranges wild fruit. Vasco de Gama the Chinese consider oranges wild fruit. Vasco de Gama portugal brought a root of this brought a root of this tree tree to to Portugal and and itit is is from from this this tree, preserved in Lisbon at the home of Count de Sainttree, preserved in Lisbon at the home of Count de SaintLaurent, that all the oranges of Portugal, Spain, provence, Laurent, that ail the oranges of Portugal, Spain, Provence, etc., have come. etc., have come. The orange tree is cultivated in all sub-tropical countries The orange tree is cultivated in ail sub-tropical countries (Mediterranean Basin, North America, South America, (Mediterranean Basin, North America, South America, South Africa). The production of oranges exceeds that of all South Africa). The production of oranges exceeds that of ail other fruits. other fruits. Orange blossom and leaves. FLEURS, FEUILLES D'ORANGER Orange blossom and leaves. FLEURS, FEUILLES D'ORANGER -The flowers and the The flowers and the leaves lea ves of of orange orange trees, trees, particularly particularly those of the bitter orange which are more strongly scented, those of the bitter orange which are more strongly scented, are used as an infusion. are used as an infusion. The essential oil of orange.flowers is called neroli; that of The essential oil of orangeflowers is ca lied neroli; that of the bitter orange essence de petit-gralz. It is used for perthe bitter orange essence de petit-grain. It is used for perfuming pancake batter, batter, etc. etc. fuming creams, creams, custards, custards, pancake Orange flower water is used as an antidote for cardioOrange ftower water is used as an antidote for cardiospasms, palpitations and chronic diarrhoea (l to 3 drops on a spasms, palpitations and chronic diarrhoea (1 to 3 drops on a lump of sugar several times daily). lump of sugar several times daily). Orange flower water. EAU DE FLEUR D'oRANGER - Oranse Orange flower water. EAU DE FLEUR D'ORANGER - Orange flower ftower water water has has aa subtle subtle fragrance fragrance and and isis used used in in pastr!pastrymaking and confectionery. making and confectionery. Orange Orangeflower ftowerwater waterisis manufactured manufactured industrially. industrially. .juice .Orangeade Orangeade-- Very Veryrefreshing refreshingbeverage beveragemade madeby byadding addingthe the of one or several oranges to sweetened waier. juice of one or several oranges to sweetened water.

To improve improve the the taste taste of of the orangeade, aa little curaçao, curagao, To the orangeade, brandy, rum or or sorne some other spirit can be added. brandy, rum added. This beverage should be served as as cold as possible, This beverage should be served cold as possible, preferably preferably iced. iced. Orangeat French name Orangeat -- French name for for finely finely chopped, chopped, candied candied orange orange peel. peel. Orange Orange cake. cake. cArrau GÂTEAU A À L'oRANcE L'ORANGE - Cake Cake made made of Genoese Genoese pastry pastry mixture, mixture, flavoured flavoured with with orange. orange. It is usually called called orangine orangine (q.v.). (q.v.). Candied Candied orange orange peel. peel. 6concE ÉCORCE D'oRANGE D'ORANGE coNFrrE CONFITE -- Candied Candied orange orange peel peel is is used used in in pastry-making pastry-making and and confectionery. confectionery. It It isis prepared prepared in in the the following following manner. manner. Scrape Scrape the the orange orange rind nnd with with a a spoon to to remove remove all ail the the white pith lining lining itit on the the inside, inside, blanch, blanch, and and put put into into syrup. syrup. white pith Leave syrup for for 24 24 hours. hours. On On the the following following day day drain, drain, Leave in in the the syrup cook cook the the syrup syrup to to 102"C. 102n e. (215"F.), (215°F.), or or until untiJ itit threads threads from from the the spoon, spoon, and and put put in in the the rind. rind. This This constitutes constitutes fagon façon in in confectionery Repeat this this operation operation several several times, times, confectionery terms. terms. Repeat bringing bringing the the sugar sugar to to the the desired desired degree degree ofcrystallisation of crystallisation at at the the last last boiling. boiling. Orange Orange compote. compote. coMporr COMPOTE D'oRANcEs D'ORANGES -- Divide Divide the the oranges oranges into into segments, segments, remove remove skin skin and and pips pips and and put put into into aa bowl. bowl. Pour Pour over over them them boiling boiling syrup syrup flavoured flavoured with with orange orange peel. peel. Cover Coyer the the bowl. bow1. Leave Leave to to steep steep in in the the juice juice in in aa cold cold place. place. Serve Serve in in aa fruit fruit dish. dish. Orange Orange cream. cream. cniue CRÈME iÀ L'oReNGr L'ORANGE -- Custard Custard cream cream flavoured orange peel peel (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). flavoured with with orange Orange Orange fritters. fritters. BETcNETs BEIGNETS D'oRANGEs D'ORANGES -- prepare Prepare like Iike all ail fruit orange segments. segments. (See (See FRITTERS, FRITTERS, fruit fritters, fritters, using using orange Sw e e t (de s s er t) fr it ter s.) Sweet (dessert)frillers.) Glac6 Glacé orange orange segments. segments. euARTrERs QUARTIERS D'oRANGE D'ORANGE crn.c6s GLACÉS -Remove Remove all ail the the white white pith, pith, taking taking care care not not to to damage damage the the thin thin skin skin in in which which the the pulp pulp isis contained. contained. put Put the the orange orange segments segmentsinin the theoven oyenfor for aa few few moments momentsto todry. dry. Spike Spikethem them on on aa cocktail cocktailstick stick or oraa needle needleand and dip dip them, them, 652 652

ORANGE ORANGE

Onngeade (Claire) Orangeade (Claire)

Orange Orange salad salad (CJatre) (Claire)

D'oRANGE This is made of Orange Orange ielly jeUy (preserve). (preserve). culfn GELÉE D'ORANGE -- This is made of (see AND the the juice juice of of sweet sweet oranges oranges in in the the usual usual way way (see JAMS JAMS AND

one by by one, one, into into sugar sugar cooked to to crack crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR). SUGAR). one Leave them them to cool on a wire mesh or or aa metal metal sieve. sieve. Put Put Leave each segment segment into a little frilly paper case. case. each ItIt is of orange segments prepared in in this this manner manner that that made. They are are also also used used orange croquembouches (q.v.) are made. decorating sweet dishes. for decorating

JELLIE$. JELLIES).

See LIQUEUR. Orange Orange liqueur liqueur -- See LIQUEUR. As described D'oRANGEs Orange Orange marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE D'ORANGES - As described (see fruit other fruit marmalades in in recipes recipes for for other marmalades (see MARMALADE). MARMALADE). (unnrrle(Seville) orange marmalade. coNFITUR-E Bitter (Seville) Bitter orange marmalade. CONFITURE (MARME(see marmalade like Orange Prepare DE BIGARADTs raon) LADE) DE BIGARADES - Prepare like Orange marmalade (see

This is clAcfs IÀ L'oRlNGn granité. cRANITfs GRANITÉS GLACÉS L'ORANGE - This is Orange granit6. sherbet. (See served like sherbet. (See ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES ICES served like Granités.) Granitds.) A GLAc6E À MoussE GLACÉE clAcf ET mousse. GLACÉ iced mousse. ice and iced ET MOUSSE Orange ice with syrup flavoured of sugar sugar syrup L'ORANGE - Orange fiavoured with L'oRANGE Orange ice is made of (See ICE ICE ices. (See as ail all other other water ices. way as in the the sa same orange, in me way or in special forms, or is set in This ice is CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES.) This in served in be served also be It can can also rocher. It glasses, or en rocher. or en in glasses, served served in scooped-out orange peel. Peel. prepared using orange-flavoured using orange-ftavoured is prepared mousse is iced mousse Orange Orange iced The moulds' The (bombe\ mixture in iced biscuit moulds. and set set in mixture and mousse (bombe) glaci àd Biscait glacé name of of Biscuit the name under the is often served under often served mousse is mousse ice bombes bombes mixed ice of mixed an ingredient of as an used as is also also used l'orange. It is l'orange.It ICES). (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES). (see sweet as aa sweet jelly. GELÉE Jelly served served as l'oRnNGE -- Jelly crrfr ÀA L'ORANGE Orange Orange jeUy. jelly preserve, preserve' see see (not to Orange jelly with Orange confused with to be be confused course course (not or moulds or in special special moulds set in which isis set AND JELLIES) JELLIES) which JAMS JAMS AND peel. orange peel. in cups cups of of orange served served in jellies (see (see jelly isis prepared fruit jeUies prepared as as ail all other other fruit Orange Orange jelly drops of of few drops with aa few flavoured with usually ftavoured and isis usually JELLY) JELLY) and Curaçao. Curagao.

oranges. using bitter MARMALADE), MARMALADE), using bitter oranges.

A t'ouNcr - See PUDDINGS, pudding. POUDING PouDING À Orange pudding. Orange L'ORANGE - See PUDDINGS, pudding. souffii pudding. or Orange Orange soufflé Tangerine or Lemon, Tangerine Lemon, is 'salad' is The word word 'salad' D'oRANcE sALADE salad. Orange Orange salado SALADE D'ORANGE -- The into the the enters into no salt salt enters as no in this case, as this case, used in incorrectly used incorrectly usage to common usage has become become common But itit has dish. But preparation of the dish. of the preparation to name. this name. dish by by this the dish call the cali pith covering them. covering them. the pith all the remove ail and remove the oranges oranges and Peel the Peel all (* inch) and remove remove ail thick and inch) thick cm. (k slices !I cm. round slices into round Cut into Cut castor with castor dish, sprinkle sprinkle with fruit dish, in aa fruit slices in pips. Arrange the slices Arrange the pips. such as rum' liqueur such any other other liqueur or any little Curaçao Curagao or and aa !ittle iugar and sugar as rum, and serve. kirsch, or brandy brandy or kirsch, and serve. sALADE DE BIGARADns - This (Seville) orange salad. SALADE ortnge salado Bitter (SeviUe) Bitter DE BIGARADES - This oranges' as bitter oranges, using bitter Prepare, using course. Prepare, as aa sweet sweet course. served as isis served as salad. Orange salad. Orange orangeUsing orangeL'onlNcE -- Using sourrr6 À.a, L'ORANGE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Orange soufflé. Orange cream prepare like like any any other other cream mixture, prepare souffi6 mixture, flavoured souffi.é ftavoured (see SOUFFLES). souffi6 (see SOUFFLÉS). souffi.é big oranges oranges Choose big nuslNfrs -- Choose oRANGEs RUBANÉES oranges. ORANGES Striped oranges. Striped

Oraoge~

Orange marmalade (Fauchal!. Phal. Nicolas)

653 653

ORANGE MILK MILK AGARIC AGARIC ORANGE

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scogpout pulp, taking outthe thepulp, taking care carenot nottotodamage damagethe theskins. skins. aod 119scoop preparia Usingthis this pulpmake makeaac1ear clear orange jelly.Prepare Bavarois UsÎng a Bavarois (see mixture (see BAVARIAN CREAM), keepingilitasaswhite whiteasas mixture possible,totocontrast contrast with with the jelly. thered red ofthe theorange orangejelly. possible, Fill the theorange-peel orange-peelcups cups with with these thesetwo two compositions, lompositions, Fill putting them themininalternate, alternate, well-marked well-marked layers. layers.Do pour Do not notpour any jellyor orbovaroÎs bavarois mixture mixture into into the the orangeskins skins untîl untijthe the previous layer layerisiscompletely completely set. set.This Thisresult resultlsachieved achieved ififthe the orange-peel eups cups are placedininaapan are plaeed panfiUed filledwith withcrushed crushed ice. ice. orange-peel chill. Chil!. Cut eaeh each orange-peel orange-peel cup cup into into quarters quarters and and serve serveinin aa Cut fruit dish. dish. fruit Oronges in (Turkish cookery). in syrup syrup (Turlûsh cookery). ORANGES oRANcEs AU AUSIROP srRop - _ Oranges Remove the yellow part part of the ye!low peel of of the the peel of Jaffa Jaffa oranges. Remove Remove Remove the pith and and shred shred the the peel into into thin, thin, long long julimne stops. strips. the Poach the the oranges inin thick, slightly slightly caramelised carimelised syrup. ,yrrrp. Leave them them in in this untiJ until the the syrup syrup thickens thickens once once more. more. Leave Towards the the end end of of cooking, cooking, put put inin the the shredded shredded rind. rind. Towards .wine' isis inOrange WÏne. wine. VIN vlx D'ORANGE D'oRANGE - The The word word 'wine' incorrectly applied to to thîs this beverage, beverage, which, which, however, however, isis excellent and very refreshing. refreshing. Choose very ripe oranges, peel them oranges, pee! them and and eut cut into into transtransverse slices. slices. Press Press them to to ex extract all thejuice. tract aIl verse For 4f quarts) of this juice add For every 44litres litres (31 quarts, 4t add kg. (2! cork, tie tZ+ lb.) sugar. Bottle, cork, tie with with string itring ani leave to 1! kg. ferment. ferment.

'Cutinto 'Cut intobig bigdice dice350 350 g. (+lb.) lb.)wild wildrabbit rabbitmeat, meat,the theflesh flesh from fromthe thedrumsticks, drumsticks, 150g.g.(5(5oz,) filletofof pork, 150 oz.)fillet 150g.g. (5(5oz.) oz.)round round of ofveal vealand (14oz.) and400 400g.g.(14 oz.) freshfat fatbacon. bacon. Pound Pound each each of ofthese theseingredients ingredients separately, separately,then putthem thenput them ail into the morlar, with 200 (7 raw goose liver all into-the mortar, with 200 g. e oz.) raw goose liverand and 45 (11 oz.,33tablespoons) a5 e.0], tablespoonS) spiced sali. Continue Coniinue ta pound topound until ail all the the ingredients have haveblended blended into intoaanomo,gelne()us homogeneous mixture, mixture, adding, little little by little, 22 eggs by liule, eggsbeaten beaten as as for an an omelette. omelette. Rub Rub thisforcemeat forcemeat through through aasieve sieve into into aa bowl; bowl; 2 cups) finely add 100 g.(4(4oz., o2.,2 finely chopped chopped truffies truffies and andkeep keepin in a cool place. When When ready ta touse, use,add add the marinated pheasant themarinated pheasant .... ""..,.. .. ', t and goose liver liverto to the the fnr' forcemeat. 'Bone two two woodeocks. woodcocks. Sauté Saut6 in in butter (4 oz.) butter 100 100g.g. (4 oz.) chic ken livers, chicken livers, as asweIl well as as the livers of the livers pheasant and of the the pheasant and the the woodcocks, woodcocks, which which should should be be fried fried lightly, lightly, enough enough to to stiffen stiffen them. them. Add Add 1I teaspoon chopped chopped shallot, pinch of shallot, aa pinch of spîced spiced salt salt and and 20 20 g.g. scant scant OZ., oz., seant scant eup) cup) fresh fresh mushroom mushioom parings. Put parings. Put on on the the fire fire for for 22 minutes minutes and and dÏlute dilute with with 22 (3 tablespoons) Madeira. tablespoons tablespoons (3 'Pound 'Pound these these Iivers livers in aa mortar, then the woodcock meat. Combine Combine the the two two ingredients, ingredients, add 100 (4 oz.) g. (4 100 g. goose oz.) raw raw goose liver, 3 slices) (2 oz., liver, 50 50 g. (2 o2.,3 slices) finely finely shredded shredded bacon, bacon, the the trai! trail of of wood~:::oc,ks, woodcocks, aa pinch pinch of of spiced spiced salt, peeled trume, salt, 1I fresh, fresh, peeled truffie, and and continue continue to to pound inin aa morlar mortar until until the the mixture mixture isis perfectly smooth. perfectly smooth. Rub through through aa sieve and keep sieve and keep by. by. 'Using 600 'Using g. (1 (l+ lb., 600 g. lb., 55 cups) cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 12 g. (2 12 g. scant 12 seant L<:.a::>I-'L'Ull::>) (| pint, teaspoons) salt, pint, li salt, 33 dl. dl. (, 1{ cups) water water and (l oz., and 30 3-0 g. (1 oz., 2- tablespoons) butter, butter, prepare semi-puff pastry, pastry, allowing ums. Roll out 5j tturns. out two-thirds of pasiry into of the the pastry into 31-cm.3t-cm.l sq uare (12-jnch-square) (12-inch-square) sheets. square sheets. Line Line the the middle middle of of this this rolled-out piece of pastry with thin bacon bacon rashers rashers leaving leaving aa border border of of pastry of (5 inches). Spread of about 13 l3 cm. (5 Spread half half of the of the first forcemeat on the the bacon rashers in in an an even even layer. layer. 'Spread the pheasant pheasant on the table skin downwards, caver skin downwards, cover with half the the woodcock the goose liver woodcock forcemeat, put the liver on on with the the rest (est of the the forcemeat. Bring Bring the the top and and cover cover with flesh together, so to edges of the pheasant's skin skin and and flesh so as is to ta form form aa kirrd kind of of slightly flattened flattened enclose the liver and and to galantine. galantine. Place Place this this on on the layer of forcemeat spread spread on on Caver completely with with the the other other half ha If of of ihe the forceforcethe pastry. Cover meat and on top of of that lay a few thin thin rashers rashers of of bacon. bacon. meat 'Sprinkle with aa pinch pinch of spiced salt, salt, add add aa small small pinch pinch of of 'Sprinkle leaf and aa little liule powdered powdered dry thyme. thyme. crushed bay leaf out the the rest rest of of the the pastry pastry into into aa sheet sheet aa little little thinner thinner 'Roll out than the the first piece. Pinch Pinch up the the edges of of the the first firs! piece of of than pastry pastry all ail round the the filling. filling. Cover with the the second second piece of of pastry pastry and and seal seal up up the the edges. edges. Trim Trîm away away surplus surplus pastry, pastry, crimp the the edges edges and decorate decorate the the sides sides with with fancy fancy pastry pastry crimp shapes, crescents, crescents, circles, circles, lozenges, which which are are made made to ta adhere adhere shapes, by moistening moistening the the pastry pastry slightly. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with by pastry pastry leaves. Jeaves. 'Put 'Put 33 scallop-edged scallop-edged pieces pieces of of pastry, pastry, each eath of of aa different different size, one one on on top top of of the the other other in in the the middle middle of of the the pie, and and size, make aa hole hole in in the the centre centre to to allow allow steam steam to ta escape escape during make cooking. cooking. 'Brush the thepie piewith with beaten beaten egg. egg. Surround Surround itit with with aa piece piece of of 'Brush buttered greaseproof greaseproofpaper fastened fastened with with string, string, all al! round; round; buttered this can can be be removed removed after the the pie pie has l'las been been in in ihe the oven oven for for this ofan an hour. hour. three-quarters of 'Put 'Put into aa hot hot oven, oyen, keeping keeping aa regular regular heat. heat. Allow Allow from from 30to to 32 32 minutes minutes per per kg. kg. (15 (15 to ta 16 16 minutes minutes per perpound). pound). 30 'When 'Whcncooked cooked and and the thepastry pastryisisno nomore morethan thanwarm, warm,pour pour dl.(+ pint, pint,J,cup) gameliquid liquidaspic aspicjelly through theiole the hole l+11dl. jelly through cup) game thetop. top. inin the 'This 'Thispie pieshould shouldbe beprepared prepared atatleast least24 24hours hoursininadvance.' advance.' (Phil6as (PhiléasGilbert.) Gilbert.)

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ORANGE MILK MILK AGARIC. AGARIC. ORONGE oRoNcE -- Common Common name for for aa ORANGE mushroom of of the the amanlla genus (see amanita genus (see MUSHROOMS). mushroom ORANGINE - Genoese Genoese pastry, flavoured flavoured with with candied candied ORANGINE peel, eut orange peel, cut transversely into into three three Jayers, layers, sandwiched sandwiched orange with French (see CREAM) CREAM) and and iced iced with with French pastry cream (see Fondant icing rcizg (see ICING). Fondant (q.v.), flavoured with candied Cut at Genoese Genoese cake (q.v.), candied orange orange Cut peel and and baked baked in a flan ring with with high high sides, into into three layers. peel Cover eacn each with with an orange-flavoured French pastry cre(nn Caver an orange-flavoured paslry cream (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Reshape cake. Ice Ice wilh with orangeorange(see Reshape the the cake. flavoured (see ICING). fiavoured Fondant Fondnnl icing icing (see lCING). Decorate with with candied

5,

-

orange peel. This gdteau can can also also be made by putting putting Genoese cakes,

each cach baked in in a a flan flan ring ring in in layer layer cake cake tins tins of different different dimensions, dimensions, one one on on top top of of another, another, sandwiching sandwiching with orange-flavoured ench pas try cream. orange-flavoured Fr French pastry cream.

OREILLER OREILLER DE DE LA LA BELLE BELLE AURORE AURORE (The (The pilow Pillow of

Belle Belle Aurore) -- In In his his book, book, la la Table au pays de de BrillatBrilla/Savarin, Lucien Tendret Tendret gives gjves a a recipe recipe for for this grandiose grandiose game pie, which, which, he he says, says, was was one one of of Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's favourite dishes. dishes.

'At midday',, wrote wrote Tendret, Tendret, 'we 'we would would sit sic at al table, table, drink C6te-Gr0le wine, from Brillat-Savarin's Brillat-Savarin's vineyard, vineyard, wine, from

and and eat eat the the traditional tradilional pie, pie, square square shaped shaped and and for for that chat reason reason called called l'Oreiller l'Oreiller de de la la Belle Belle Aurore Aurore after after Brillat-savarin's Brillat-SavarÎn's mother, mother, Claudine-Aurore Claudine-Aurore R6camier.' Récamier.' Lucien Lucien Tendret's Tendret's recipe for for this this pie pie was was modified modifjed by by Phil€as Philéas Gilbert, Gilbert, and and itit is from this Ihis version versÎon that that we we quotl quote

below: below: 'In aa pie _ 'In

in which which game game is is the the principal

element the

flav_our of game meat meat must must be he the the predominating ffavour. 'Ch_oose a plump, tender tender pheasant, pheasanl. bone bone it, it, having first

cut off the drumsticks; ; season season with with aa good good pinch pinch of ofSpiced sall sali (see (see SALT) SALT) and and put put into into an an earthenware earthenwarecasserole casserole with with

55tablespoons tablespoons (6 (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy brandy and and the thesame sameamount amount of ofMadeira Madeira. 'Remove 'Removeall ail sinews sinews from from aa big bigfat fat goose goose liver, liver, and and stud stud itit generously with with quarters quarters of of fresh, fresh, peeled peeled trufles. tfUtRes. Season Season with with spiced salt salt and and put put itit with with the the pheasant. pheasant. Leave Leave toto marinate marinate for for one one hour, hour, turning tuming both bolh the the pheasant pheasant and and the the liver fromtime timetototime. time. liverfrom

<*

ORGEA T -- Beverage Beverage made made from from an an emulsion emulsion of ofalmonds almonds ORGEAT

654

ORLEANAIS ORLÉANAIS Sologne Sologne produces produces fine fine game, and and Sologne Sologne winged winged game game is is considered considered the the best best in in France. Loire Loire fish fish (carp, (carp, pike, pike, shad) shad) is is known known for for its its delicate delicate deliciousmatelotes. flavour, flavour, and and isis used used in in the the preparation preparation of ofdeliciousmatelotes. Loire Loire salmon salmon is is aa highly pized prized fish, fish, and and crayfish crayfish abound abound in in the the waterways of of this region. region. its produce of Val-de-Loire is is extremely extremely fertile. fertile. The The produce of its admirable admirable market market gardens gardens and and orchards orchards are are in in great great demand, demand, especially especially Venddme Vendôme asparagus. asparagus. quality flours best produces of the one wheat Beauce Beauce wheat produces one of the best quality flours to to be be saffron is found found in in France. France. At At Boynes, Boynes, near near Pithiviers, Pithiviers, saffron is are wine of this grown. Among Among the the food food products of this region region are wine been centuries been vinegar, made made of of pure pure wine, which which has has for for centuries produced at Orl6ans. pl\JU 'J'-',"U at Orléans. of culinary specialities of the culil1ary Culinary Culinary specialities -- Among Among the fot made for lark pdti, made Pithiviers lark celebratd Pithiviers this this region region is the the celebrated of master-pastrycook in the the shop shop of an old 200 200 years years to to an old recipe recipe in master-pastrycook pies made made succulent pies range of of succulent whole range is the the whole There is Gringoire. There Gringoire. region. in this this region. for centuries in for the which the of which specialities, of excellent specialities, other excellent are many many other There are rillettes Vendime and Blois known: the best are following 'Vl'V''''U.''- are the best known: Blois and Vendôme rillettes various and various andouilles and (potted mince); the the succulent succulent Jargeau andouilles pike inin la marinière; marinidre; pike products; pike àd la pork products; local pork other local of matelote of carp; matelote (Gitinais-grown saffron); baked carp; saffron); baked saffron (Gàtinais-grown Sologne of Sologne leg of boiled leg Ia beauceronne; beauceronne; boiled beef àd la eel; braised beef eel; young rabbi! la rabbit àd la la blaisoise; blaisoise; young mesentery àd la mutton; calf' calf ss mesentery mutton; potatoes ..; stuffed stuffed cabbage; cabbage ; stufed po/atoes of hare; hare ; stuffed terrine of solognote ;. terrine sol'oj(,nOl'e de McmUlrj(l'S. Montargis. champignons de crofrte aux champign,ons justly proud puff pastries with with its puff proud of its can be justly Orl6anais can Orléanais c ak e s ; the' demo is e I le s almo nd cakes; P i th iv ier s almond as Pithiviers known as almonds, known almonds, Beaugency fruit in Lamotte-Beuvron; Lamotte-Beuvron; Beaugency made in Tatin' tart, tart, made fruit Tatin' and Romorantin; Romorantin; Montoire and pdtts; crisp from Sully, Sully, Montoire biscuit from crisp biscuit pâtés; product, Gâtinais Gdtinais natural product, and aa natural quince marmalade marmalade and Orlhans quince Orléans honey. honey. no great wines, only have no Maine have and Maine Wines -- Orléanais Orl6anais and Wines much valued by gourmets. varieties much pleasant regional regional varieties pleasant wines (Appellation d'Origine d'Origine Contrdlie) wines the A.O.C. A.O.C. (Appellation Among the Among and red and the white, white, red and the wine and white Jasnières Jasni0res wine excellent white are the the excellent are

with withsugar. sugar.In Inthe thepast pastthis thiswas wasmade madefrom from aa barley barleydecoction. decoction. Orgeat syrup. syrnp. slRop SIROP D'oRcelr D'ORGEAT -- Beverage prepared in in the the Orgeat olden days da ys from from aa barley barley emulsion emulsion to to which an an almond almond olden decoction decoction was was added. added. This This syrup syrup is is nowadays nowadays made made only only from almonds. almonds. from Ingredients. 1 kg. kg. (2* (2i lb.) lb.) almonds almonds including 30 30 to to 40 40 Ingredients. bittei bitter almonds, almonds, lf, Ii ke. kg. Qi (2i lb., lb., 5* 5t cups) cups) sugar, sugar, il litre litre ot pints, pints, lt 1i pints) pints) water water or or milk milk and and 33 teaspoons teaspoons tartaric tartaric acid acid (cream (cream of of Tartar). Tartar). Method. Method. Scald Scald the the almonds almonds for for aa few few moments moments in in boiling boiling water to to loosen loosen the the skin, skin, blanch, blanch, wash wash and and pound pound them them into into water aa fine fine paste. Squeeze Squeeze out out the the oil, oil, reduce reduce the the rest rest to to aa powder, powder, mix with enough water water to to make make it into into a liquid liquid paste, paste, and mix leave leave to to stand stand for 24 24 hours. hours. Add Add the the rest rest of of the the water and dissolve the the tartaric tartaric acid acid in the the emulsion. emulsion. dissolve Filter through through paper. paper. Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar, sugar, either either cold or on Filter low heat, heat, and add to to the the emulsion. a low ORIENT ALE (A (À L) V) -- Term Term applied to the preparation preparation of of ORIENTALE various ingredients ingredients (fish, (fish, eggs, vegetables) vegetables) cooked cooked with various tomatoes, flavoured with garlic and sometimes sometimes spiced with tomatoes, saffron. saffron.

I

(ll

IVI .........'''..... ORIGAN (Wild Marioram)

AromatÏc herb, possessing a - Aromatic pungent smell and slightly bitter taste, somewhat similar to pungent sweet marjoram. ... _.....__ ~...•. sweet ltalian pizza. It is used to flavour Italian

can be France can ORLÉANAiS ancient province of France This ancient ORLEANAIS -- This

the country, country, by classed among the gastronomical centres of the game pâtés pdtis made there. virtue of the succulent game great and and are great The gastronomical Orl6anais are gastronomical resources of Orléanais of the highest al! livestock -- is of all the produce -- agricultural and Iivestock

quality. In producing meat of excellent raised, nr,,,ti'"f',,ncr are raised, cattle are In Perche, Perche, cattle quality. quality. The The region region "p',,",Hl'U'''~'' specialises in raising very big sheep, ones raised which are less delicate than the smaller ones are perhaps Jess in in Sologne. Sologne. from comes from The best In Beauce best cornes is found. found. The excellent poultry is Beauce excellent Dreux. and Dreux. Romorantin, Montargis and Selles-sur-Cher, Montargis Romorantin, Selles-sur-Cher,

..FRANCE t

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RJ'I .|.r E. . \. o j.:c,^yin) \

u.

(,r'SEt

L44r

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leg of mutron.

Cider frite, !1re.stew' e'j;.i:;:';::

TroutgloJreme

#,'il:.l"l5 lvog) R

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Tetrinet of hate

Loing prke ates. Crorltes

Bonnil

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GaSLronomie mapofofOrléanais Orleanais Gastronomicmap

655 655

'rnrEn ol e. l*"g," E'tt.'o .:lts)i : : l: :r, 6rillodes\(gri

oRLY (A m) ORLY (À LA) ros6 wines of the Coteaux du Loir. V.D.e.S. (Vins Dhtimitis rosé wines of the Coteaux du Loir. V.D.Q.S. (Vins Délimités de Qualiti Supirieure) wines are found in all three colours: de Qualité Supérieure) wines are found in ail three colours: C6tes de Gien or Coteaux du Giennois, and the Orl6anais Côtes de Gien or Cotcaux du Giennois, and the Orléanais wines, including the delicious pale red Gris Meunier. All wines, including the delicious pale red Gris Meunier. AlI these wines are drunk young and chilled. tbese wincs are drunk young and chilled. Ul;- - Method Method of preparation applied mosrly to 9ll,f (À@ LA) ORLY of preparation applied mostly to fish. The fish is filleted, the fillets ikinned, dipped into a light fisb. The fisb is filleted, the fillets skinned, dipped into a light in deep fat and accompanied by tomato ,u.i". |lu"_l Cried ll_"j in deep fat and accompanied balter, by tomato sauce. (See

WHITING, Whit@

Orly.) (Sec WHlTING, Whiting Orly.) ORMER. oRMEAU, oRMTER Shellfish which are usually ORMER, ORMEAU, ORMIER - - Shellfish which are usually eaten raw or in soup as they are so small. Ormers should be eaten raw or in soup as they are so small. Ormers should be beaten before being cooked. beaten before being cooked.

ORTOLAI\ or GARDEN BUNTING

This small small bird bird ORTOLAN or GARDEN BUNTING -- This enjoys a high reputation as a table delicacy. Ortolans are enjoys a high reputation as a table delicacy. Ortolans are found in central and southern Europe. Thiy are plentiful found in central and southem Europe. They are plentiful in the south of France, particularly in Landes, a region which in the south of France, particularly in Landes, a region which specialises in fattening them, and also in Spain, Italy and specialises in fattening them, and also in Spain, ltaly and Greece. Greece. They can be prepared in any way suitable for Garden They can be prepared in any way suitable for Garden warblers or Larks. warblers or Larks. Gastronomes say that the only way to cook this bird is to Gastronomes say that the only way to cook this bird is to roast it in the oven or on the spit, and insist that it should not roast it in the oven or on the spit, and insist that it should not be cooked in anything but its own fat. be cooked in anything but ils own fat. Ortolans i la Brissac (Plumerey's recipe) - .Cut a desalted Ortolans la Brissac (Plumerey's recipe) - 'Cut a desalted ham pope'sà eye, from the part where the lean merges with ham pope's eye, from the part where the lean merges with the fat, into little squares. Thread the ortolans on thin thin the fat, into little squares. Thread theput ortolans on skewers alternating with pieces of ham. them on on aa spit, spit, skewers alternating with pieces of ham. Put them back to back. Cook before a clear, lively fire, basting conback to back. Cook before a clear, lively lire, basting continuously with clarified butter. tinuously with clarified butter. 'When nearly cooked, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and do nearly cooked, sprinkle with breadcrumbs and do not'Wben baste any more, to allow the to colour colour well. Take not baste any more, to allow the birds birds to weil. Take offthe skewers, arrange on a dish and add small crofftons of off the skewers, arraoge 00 a dish and add smalt croûtons of bread to the ham. Peel 2 small baskets of mushrooms. slice bread to the ham. Peel 2 small baskets of mushrooms, sliee them and saut6 in a glass of Aix oil until they acquire a pale them sauté in a glass of Aix oil untillhey acquire a pale goldenand colour. Add sliced truffies and drain off all the oil. golden piece eolour. Add slieed truffies and drain off ail the oil. Add a of concentrated meat jelly Add a pieee of conccntrated meat jelly about about the the size size of of aa walnut, I tablespoon Espagno le demi-glace (see SAUCE) walnut, 1 tablespoon Espagno le demi-glace (see SAUCE) and a dash of lemon juice. Pour in the middle of the ortolans and a dash of lemon juice. Pour in the middle of the ortolans and serve.' and serve.' Ortolans I la Car6me - 'Stuffthe ortolans, boned through Ortolans à la Carême· 'Stuff the ortolans, boned through the back, with a littlefoie gras (q.v.) encrusted with a pieie the back, with a littlefoie gras (q.v.) encrusted with a piece of truffie. Wrap each one in a piece of muslin and tie with of truffie. Wrap each one in a piece of muslin and tie with string at both ends. Plung them into boiling port and poach string at both ends. Plung Ihem into boiling porI and poach for 5 minutes. Drain and unwrap. for'Arrange 5 minutes. Drain and unwrap. each in a tartlet case, baked blind and filled with 'Arrange(q.v.) each in a tanlel case, baked blind and filled with a salpicon of lambs' sweetbreads, truffies a salpicon (q.v.) of lambs' sweetbreads, truffies and and mushmushrooms, bound with chicken Velouti sauce (see rooms, bound with chicken Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) boiled down with the port and a little cream.' boiled down with the port and a little eream.' Ortolans in cases i Ia royale. oRToLANS nrq carssn A u Ortolans in cases à la royale. ORTOLANS EN CAISSE il LA RoyALE - Bone the ortolans through the back. Stuff each ROYALE - Bone the ortolans through the back. Stuff each one with a piece of foie gras (q.v.), encrusted with a slice of one with a pieee of/oie gras (q.v.), encrusted with a slice of truffie, seasoned with spiced truffie, seasoned with spiced salt salt and and sprinkled sprinkled with with brandy. brandy. Reshape the ortolans. Brown them quickly in butter. put Reshape the ortolans. Brown them quickly in butter. Put each into a frilly paper case or individual oven-proof dishes each into a frilly paper case or individual oven-proof dishes I tablespoon truffies shredded into julienne (q.v.) on on 1 tablespoon truffies shredded inlojulienne (q.v.) strips. strips.

Saltand andspice spicethem themwith withone onetum pepper mil!.' turnoCofthe thepepper mill.' Salt Ortolans ài lalapérigourdine perigourdine - - Heat Heat22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tabletableOrtolans spoons) butter butterininan anearthenware earthenware casserole casseroleand putinin66 andput spoons) trussed ortolans. Brown Brownthem quicklyininthe themquickly thesizzling sizzlingbutter. trussed ortolans. butter. Cover with with1212thick thick slices slices of oftruffles. truffies. Season Seasonwith withsalt saltand and Cover pepper.Cover Coverthe thecasserole casserole and andcook cookininthe theoven oven for forabout about pepper. minutes, basting bastingthe the birds birds with generoustablespoon with 1I generous tablespoon 88minutes, Armagnac which whichhas has been been set setalight. alight. Serve Serveinin the the same iame Armagnac casserole. casserole. .Twenty Ortolans àI lala provençale provengale (Carême's (CarGme'srecipe) recipe) -- 'Twenty Ortolans ortolans would would be beenough enoughfor for an anentrée. entr6e.Cut Cut24 24 thick, thick. ovalovaiortolans shaped croûtons. cro0tons. Hollow Hollow oulon put1I ortolan out on one one side, side, put ortolan on shaped on each croûton, cro0ton, then place inin aasauté then place pan inin which saut6 pan whichyou you have have each put some some best best olive olive oil, oil, spiccd spiced with pounded ~* c10ve with aa pounded clove of of put garlic. Heat Heat the the oil oil with with the the croûtons cro0tons and and the the ortolans, ortolans. then then garlic. place in in the the oven. oven. place 'As soon soon as as the the croûtons cro0tons begin begin to to colour colour lightly, lightly, remove remove 'As pan from the pan from heat, heat, drain drain them them on on aa c10th cloth to to wipe wipe off off the the oil, oil, the and arrange arrange on on aa dish. dish. Prepare Prepare aa truffie (q.v.) and truffie ragoût ,agi,frt (q.v.) and and Parisian sauce (see SAUCE, sauce (sec SAUCE, Co Cold sauces), add add to to itit anchovy inchovy Parisian Id sauces), made from butter made from two two de-salted de-salted anchovy anchovy fillets, put in fillets, put in 1i butter tablespoon cold juice of, cold olive olive oil oil and and the the juice of j lemon, lemon, pour pour this this tablespoon in the the midd middle of the the dish dish containing containing the the ortolans, ortolans, and and serve.' serve.' in le of Roast ortolans. ortolans. ORTOLANS oRToLANS RÔTIS nOns -- Truss Truss the the ortolans ortolans and and Roast wrap in in vine vine leaves. leaves. Pack Pack them them io in rows, rows, fairly fairly tightly, tightly, in in aa wrap pan moistened moistened with with aa little little salted salted water. water. Roast Roast in ai very verv hot pan oven for for about about 55 minutes. minutes. Arrange Arrange each each on on aa croûton crofiton fricd fried oven in butter. butter. Serve Serve with with lem lemon halves. io on halves. Cooked in in this this way, way, the the birds birds don't don't lose lose their fat, fat, which is Cooked greatly enjoyed gastronomes. enjoyed by by gastronomes. greatly Ortolans on on skewers. skewers. BROCHETTE BRocHETTE D'ORTOLANS D'oRToLANs -- Wrap the Ortolans trussed ortolans ortolans in thin rashers of fat fat bacon. Thread on trussed in thin rashers of bacon. Thread skewers,44 birds skewer, separated separated from from each each other by skewers, birds to to aa skewer, little look like cocks' combs and and lightly little cro0tons, croûtons, cut eut to to look like cocks' fried skewers into fried in in butter. butter. Put Put the the skewers into a roasting roasting pan in wtricir which a a little little butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Cook Cook briskly briskly in in a a hot oven for for about about 55 minutes. minutes. Arrange Arrange the the skewers skewers on on a a long long dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with watercress cress and and quarters quarters of of lemon. lemon. Pour Pour the pan pan juices juices over the the birds. birds.

ORVAL ORVAL or or CLARY. CLARY.

sAUGE SAUGE scrlnEr, SC LA RÉE, oRvALE ORVALE - Varietv Variety of sage sage used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of Turin Turin Vermouth. Vermouth.

-

OSTRICH. OSTRICH. AUTRUCHE AUTRUCHE -- The The flesh flesh of of this Ihis bird. bird, forbidden forbidden to to the the Jews Jews and and the the Moslems, Moslems, was was much much valued valued by by the the Romans. Romans. The The second second Apicius Apicius dedicated dedicaled aa special special sauce sauce to to it. il.

An An ostrich, ostrich, on on the the average, average, gives gives about about 30 30 kg. kg. (66 (66 lb.) lb.) meat mea t and and 20 20 kg. kg. (441b.) (44 lb.) fat. fat. But But only only the the wings wings are are sufficiently sufficiently tender tender to to be be edible. edible. Its Its eggs, eggs, on on the the other other hand, hand, are are excelleni. excellent. pr RIVIÈRE - Carnivorous OTTER. OTTER. LourRE LOUTRE DE ruvrins Carnivorous water water marnmal. mammal. Its lts flesh, flesh, which which is is oily oily and and leathery, leathery, has has aa very very unpleasant unpleasant taste. taste.

.thin OUBLIE OUBLIE (Wafer) (Wafer) -- Furetidres Furetieres defines defines the the oublie oublie as as aa 'thin round round wafer wafer cooked cooked between between two two irons'. irons'. According According to to him, him, him, him, the the word word oublie oublieisis aa corruption corruption of ofoblaye, oblaye, derived derived from from

oblata, obla/a,which which used used totodefine definenon-consecrated non-col1secrated Eucharist Eucharisthost. host. ItIt was was called called oblie oblée or oroublie. oublie. The The most most famous famous of of these these wafers wafers were were made made in in Lyons, Lyons, and and ititisis in in this this town town that that they they were were first first rolled rolled into intoaa cone. cone. InIn Paris Paristhey theywere wereflat flat and and insipid. insipid. These These wafers, wafers, made made out out of of any any pastry pastry remnants, remnants, were were once once left left to to bakery bakery boys boys -- itit was was their the;r profit. profit. On On winter winter evenings eveningsthey theywould would offer offerthem themto10passers-by passers-byand and sell sell them them from from door door to to door; door; they they sold sold 77 or or 88 at at aa time. time. This This was was called called 'une 'unemain maind'oublies'(a d'oublies' (ahandful handfulofofwafers). wafers). The wafer The wafer vendors vendors cast cast dice dice with with their their clients clients for for their their wares. wares.Towards Towardsthe themiddle middleofofthe tbeeighteenth eighteenthcentury cent urythese these

Sprinkle with melted butter, cook in the oven for 5 oi 6 Sprinkleand with melted butter, cook in the oven for 5 or 6 minutes serve.

min utes and serve. Cold ortolans. oRToLANs FRorDs - All the methods of Cold ortolans. ORTOLANS FROlDS - Ali the methods of preparation given for quails, thrushes preparation given for quails, thrushesand and larks larksare arcapplicapplicable to ortolans. Ortolans, however, whether served tiot or able to ortolans. Ortolans, bowever, whether served hot or cold, should be prepared in the simplest manner and roasted. cold, should be prepared in the simplest manner and roasted. Ortolans i la landaise - This recipe was supplied by Felix Ortolans à la landaise - This recipe Campagn6, Hdtel de France, at pau. was supplled by Felix Campagné, Hôtel de France, at Pau. 'Arrange the ortolans in rows in a dripping 'Arrange the ortolans in rows in a drippingpan panand andstand stand i1 a. big open fireplace before u gt"af iog ni.. They cook itit in a big open fireplace beCore a great log tire. They cook in their own melting fat. in their own melting fa\. 656 656

OYSTER OYSTER also also sometimes sometimes used. used. The The great great progress progress which which has has been been made made in in our our time time in in the the construction construction of of ovens ovens consists consists and double mainly mainly in inthe the use use of ofmetals, metals, insulating insulating materials, materials, and double walls, walls, which which are are a a great great economy economy and and assure assure perfect perfect reguregularity larity of of heat. heat. Further Further advances advances are are the the use use of of other other comcombustibles bustibles than than wood, wood, such such as as gas, gas, oil, oil, steam steam and and electricity electricity

vendors vendors were were called called 'marchands 'marchands de deplaisir', plaisir', because because their their cry cry was'Voild was 'Voilà lele plaisir'. plaisir'. Here Here is is aa recipe recipe for for making making the the wafers. wafers. Oublies Oublies ià la la parisienne parisienne (Parisian (Parisian wafers) wafers) -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) sieved sieved cake cake flour, flour, 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., t~ clup, cup, cup) melted firmly firmly packed) packed) castor castor sugar, sugar, 22 eggs, eggs, 65 65 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., *tcup) melted butter, butter, 77 dl. dl. (l+ (lt pints, pints, l|li pints) pints) milk, milk, flavouring, flavouring, orangeorangeblossom blossom water, water, lemon lemon rind. rind. Method. Method. Blend Blend the the flour, flour, sugar, sugar, eggs eggs and and flavouring flavouring in in aa bowl. bowl. When When the the mixture mixture has has been been worked worked into into a a smooth smooth paste, paste, add add the the milk, milk, little Iittle by by little, little, then then the the melted melted butter butter and, and, last last of of all, ail, the the grated grated lemon lemon rind. rind. Heat the the wafer wafer irons irons and grease them them evenly. Pour Pour in in I1 tablespoon tablespoon of of the the mixture mixture and cook on on aa very very lively lively heat, heat, turning tuming the irons. irons. Take Take out the the cooked wafer, wafer, roll roll itit into into aa cone round round a conical conical piece piece of of wood, wood, or or leave leave itit flat. flat.

for for baker's baker's and and pastry-cooks' pastry-cooks' ovens. ovens. The The most most modern modern and and

practical practical kitchen kitchen stoves stoves are are those those heated heated by by gas gas or or electricityelectricity. Infra-red Infra-red grills grills and and electronic electronic ovens ovens are are another another innovation. innovation. OVERLAP. OVERLAP. IMBRIQUER IMBRIQUER -- Overlapping Overlapping is is sometimes sometimes used used for for decorative decorative effect effect in in the the garnishing garnishing of ofdishes. dishes. For For instance, instance, little truffie can ]jttle strips strips of oftruffle can be be laid laid one one against against the the other other and and set set in in jelly jelly to to decorate decorate certain certain cold co Id dishes. dishes. The The effect effect is is reminisreminiscent cent of of tiling. tiling. See also OX. OX. sorurBOEuF-See also BEEF, BEEF, OFFAL OFFAL oTVARIETY orVARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Ox Ox betly belly (tripe). (tripe). cRAS-DouBLE GRAS-DOUBLE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF - This This part part of of the the offal cornes from from the the animal's animal's paunch. paunch. It It is is generally generally sold sold offal comes cooked cooked and and can can be be prepared prepared in in various various ways. ways. For For all ail recipes recipes for for preparing preparing ox ox belly, belly, see see OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Ox Ox brain. brain. cERvELLE CERVELLE DE DE BoEUFBOEUF - See See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. Ox Ox cheeks. cheeks. JouEs JOUES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -- Boned Boned and and trimmed trimmed ox ox cheeks cheeks are are used used for for preparing preparing pot-au'feu. pot-au-feu. stews. They Ox Ox cheeks cheeks can can be be braised braised or or made made into into stews. They can can (see OFFAL OFFAL or tongue (see also also be be prepared prepared llke like Pickled Pickled tongue or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS). MEATS). Ox tail. coEUR, MUSEAU, Ox palaten Ox heart, Ox heart, Ox Ox muzzle, muzzle, Ox paIate, Ox tail. COEUR, MUSEAU, pALArs, VARIETY or VARIETY See OFF OFFAL PALAIS, euEUE QUEUE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF -- See AL or MEATS. MEATS. BROTHS. AND BROTHS. soup -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND Oxtail soup Oxtail or DE BOEUF BoEUF -- See See OFF OFFAL (bee| tongue. LANGUE DE tongue. LANGUE Ox (beet) Ox AL or MEATS. VARIETY MEATS. VARIETY to the the equally This term applies eq DE BOEUF BoEUF - This term applies TRIpEs DE Ox tripe. tripe. TRIPES Ox ually to (See OFFAL VARIETY or VARIETY OFFAL or itself. (See tripe itself. and the the tripe ox belly ox belly and MEATS.) MEATS.) with (English cookery) Sauce served served with cookery) -- Sauce SAUCE (English OXFORD SAUCE OXFORD

OUILLAT OUfLLAT or TOURRf TOURRI (B6arn (Béarn cookery) - 'Put 'Put I1 chopped

onion onion to to cook cook in in fat or or olive olive oil in in an earthenware earthenware casserole. casserole. When the onion onion colours, colours, add some sorne crushed crushed garlic garlic and and cook. When in hot water. Add a bouquet of of thyme thyme and and parsley, parsley, Pour in season with pepper and and salt, salt, simmer for for 30 minutes, then then bread. strain strain on to slices of ofbread. 'Water in which French beans, dried peas, peas, broad broad beans and and asparagus asparagus were were cooked cooked is is sometimes used used for for this purpose. An egg and a dash ofvinegar of vinegar can be added added at at the moment moment of straining into into the soup tureen. Grated GruyEre Gruyère season, tomatoes, cheese can be substituted for egg. When in season, (Simin peeled and cook with sliced, are and sliced, are put put to cook with the onion.' (Simin Palay.)

A L'osuLLe (Russian cookery). OUKA DE Lorrn ouKA DE OUKA (Russian OUKA LOTTE À L'OSEILLE of burbot cooking squares of This soup is is made made by cooking burbot in in a a fish fish adding aa siguis and and ierchis, ierchis, then stock made stock made from from perch, perch, siguis th en adding (previously softened julienne softened in and celery celery (previously roots and julienne of parsley roots in (q.v.) of of few minutes. A A chiffonade chffinade (q.v.) for aa few butter). Simmer for (previously liver (previously and the burbot's liver the burbot's blanched, drained sorrel and just before serving. serving. is added just separately) is cooked separately)

jelly, port, port, are redcurrant redcurrant jelly, ingredients are The ingredients cold venison. venison. The cold and grated orange lemon rind, rind, orange orange and and lemon orange and chopped shallot, shallot, grated chopped juice, mustard ginger. powdered ginger. mustard and and powdered lemon juice, lemon and honey and mixture of of honey from aa mixture made from Syrup made OXYMEL -- Syrup OXYMEL parts part vinegar with 44 parts vinegar with by cooking cooking 1I part is obtained It is obtained by vinegar. It vinegar. honey. honey. raw. eaten raw. usually eaten Bivalve moIlusc mollusc usually OYSTER. HUÎTRE nuirnr -- Bivalve OYSTER. earliest times, times, from the the earliest man from to man has been known to been known The oyster oyster has The and Egyptians and that the the Egyptians positive evidence evidence that is no no positive though there there is though been It seems seems to to have have been mollusc. It Assyrians ate this delicious delicious mollusc. ate this Assyrians gathered oysters and fed fed on on oysters and The Celts Celts gathered Jews. The unknown to to the the Jews. unknown prized oysters and highly and oysters highly The Greeks Greeks prized abundantly. The them abundantly. them They were were prepare them number of ways. They in aa number of ways. them in knew how how to to prepare knew (Dardanelles) oysters. The oysters. The Hellespont (Dardanelles) fond of of Hellespont especially fond especially votes. for casting casting their their votes. people of shells for of Greece Greece used used oyster oyster shells people point on on the the with aa sharp sharp point choice with his choice inscribed his The voter voter inscribed The great were great The Romans Romans were of the the shell. shell. The mother-of-pearl of white mother-of-pearl white gathered in Lucrine in the the Lucrine prized those those gathered and prized lovers of oysters, and of oysters, lovers and Circeo. Circeo. Taranto and Brindisi, Taranto of Brindisi, as the the oysters oysters of Lake, as as weIl well as Lake, (q'v.). garum (q.v.). with garum oysters with their oysters seasoned their It isis said that they they seasoned said that It century' nineteenth century, of the the nineteenth the beginning beginning of In France, France, up up to to the In inexhaustwere inexhaustbeds were coastal oyster oyster beds the coastal that the was thought thought that itit was protect mussels, mussels,left enacted to to protect 1681, enacted of 1681, ible; the Ordinance of the Ordinance ible; left 1754 itit However, by by 1754 from control. control. However, free from fisheries free the oyster oyster fisheries the gathering of oysters prohibit the of oysters the gathering necessary to to prohibit became necessary became

Modern electric oven o. o, (Brigaud. Phot. Photothèque E.D.F.) @, i s outf;::

"|ffiiioiiii'

to aa can be be brought brought to which can space which FouR -- Enclosed Enclosed space OVEN. FOUR OVEN. put to cook. are put to cook. dishes are into which which dishes and into high temperature temperature and high long time. time. for aa very very long known for has been been known oven has Cooking inin the the oyen Cooking in the almost in the constructed almost today constructed The baker's still today baker's oyen oven isis still The (see BAKERY). pastry oyen oven BAKERY). AA pastry in ancient times (see way as as in ancient times same way same (see characteristics (see has certain certain special little sm and has special characteristics smaller isis aa little aller and part of the of the for cooking cooking isis usually usually part The oyen oven for PATISSERIE). The PÂTISSERIE). are ovens are though separate separate ovens range or or stove, stove, though cooking range whole cooking whole

year. Similar Similar each year. October each and 31st 3lst October lst April April and between Ist between Brittany. in Brittany. had to to be be taken taken in measures had measures of the the devastations of precautions, the the devastations these precautions, In spite of these spite of In until inin coastal are areas, in ail all coastal continued in beds continued natural oyster oyster beds natural as, until

657 657

OYSTER OYSTER ropes ropesfrom fromwhicb whichwere weresuspended suspendedtraps trapsininthe formofofsmall thefonn small .faggots.The ·faggots. Thestakes stakesand andfaggots faggots were wereencrusted encrusted with withoysters oysters of ofevery everysize. size.The Thesaleable saleable oysters oysters were puton were put onthe market. themarket. The Thesmaller smaller ones putinto oneswere intoosier wereput osierbaskets baskets totoattain attainfull full growth. growth. On On his hisreturn returntotoFrance, France,Coste Coste succeeded succeededininstocking stocking the the Bay Bayof ofSaint-Brieuc Saint-Brieuc with withoysters oysterscollected collectedatatCancale Cancale on onthe the English EnglishChannel Channel and Tr6guier,Côte andTréguier, deNord. C6tede Nord.He Hereplenished replenished the pooland theThau Thau pool and the Baysof the Bays ofToulon Toulon and andBrest Brestwith with British Britishoysters. oysters.The The Concarneau Concarneau reserve reserve came cameinto into being, being, and and finally finally model modelbeds beds were were built built up upatatArcachon Arcachon ininthe theCès, Ces, at en atatLahillon. atCrastorbe Crastorbe and andththen Lahillon. The The American American Indians Indians ate ate large large quantities quantities of of oysters. oysters. Oyster Oyster fisheries fisheries and and fanning farming represent represent aa large large industry industry inin North North America America today. today. Nutritive Nuhitive value value of of oysters oysters -- Raw Raw oysters oysters contain contain vitamins, vitamins, phosphorus phosphorus salts, salts,chalk, chalk, iron, iron, copper copper and and manganese manganese in in aa readily readily assimilable assimilable form. form. They They also also contain contain aa very very high high proportion proportion of of iodine iodine and and are are sometimes sometimes eaten eaten to to combat combat anaemia. anaemia. Green Green American American oysters (different from oysters (different from the the Marenne Marenne oyster) oyster) have have been been used used in in the the treatment treatment of anaemia of anaemia with with results results equal equal to to those those obtained obtained from from calves' calves' liver. liver. Oysters Oysters contain contain appreciable appreciable amounts amounts of of Vitamins Vitamins A, A, Bt, Br, B2' B2, and and C. C. The The risk risk of infectious diseases of infectious diseases being being spread spread througb through the the water water contained contained in in oysters oysters isis small, provided they small, provided are they are bought from a conscientious supplier who has made it his bought from a conscientious supplier who has made it his business business to know where to know where they they come come from. from. Improved Improved methods methods and and conditions conditions of of transport transport have put have put ,the months an an end prejudice of end to to the the prejudice of avoiding avoiding oysters oysters in in 'the months without without an an R'. R'. Nowadays, Nowadays, oysters oysters may may be be safely safely consumed consumed ail year round. all the the year round. However, However, since 'months without since the the 'months without an an R' R' correspond correspond to to the period of the oysters' oysters' period reproduction, of reproduction, oyster oyster farmers farmers prefer not not to deplete the to deplete the beds beds at at this It this time. time. It is is better, better, therefore, therefore, to to eat eat the the oysters oysters on on their their own home own home ground an to ground rather th than rely on to rely on finding finding them them elsewhere. elsewhere. Various types types of oyster -- There are are two two main main types: the types: the wild oyster, oyster, which has has aa very pronounced sea-water sea-water fiavour, flavour, cu/tivated oyster. In the cultivation of oysters, seedand the and cultivated oyster. In the cultivation ofoysters, seedoysters are affixed affixed to to tiles tiles and and reared reared in in areas areas some some way way out out to they have reacbed aa certain to sea. sea. When When they have reached certain size, size, they they are are beds which transferred to the fattening fattening beds which are are always always situated situated at the mouth of aa river, the the mixture mixture of fresh and and sea of fresh water sea water to induce over-growth the Iiver being essential essential to over-growth of of the liver in in which which the fattening consists. consists. The green green Marenne oysters owe their their colouring colouring to to tbe The oysters owe the diatoma which which live live in in the the fattening fattening algae and and microscopic microscopic diatoma are embedded. embedded. pools in which they are an accidental accidentaI discovery. discovery. During During the the This colouring was an La Rochelle, some some oysters oysters were were thrown thrown into into the the siege of La siege old salt salt marshes. marshes. When When they they were were fished fished out out again, again, everyone everyone was astonished at their their green green colour. colour. After After aa good good deal deal of of was hesitation, itit was was decided that that they they should should be be tasted tasted and and itit hesitation, being spoiled, spoiled, they they had had acquired acquired was noticed noticed that, that, far far from being was more delicate flavour. fiavour. aa more The name name Portuguese Portuguese oyster oyster is is given given to to aa sub-variety sub-variety of of The oyster whose whose proper proper name name isis gryphacea. gryphacea. Since Since itit has has become become oyster customary to to bed bed and and treat treat them them like Iike the the Marenne Marenne oysters, oysters, customary their flavour fiavour has has improved improved noticeably, noticeably, though though they they are are still still their not comparable comparable with with genuine genuine oysters. oysters. not great many many different different ways. ways. Oysters can can be be prepared prepared in in aa great Oysters They can can be be served served as as hot hot or or cold cold hors-d'auvre. hors-d'œuvre. They They can can be be They preparation of of elegant elegant and and elaborate elaborate garnishes, garnishes, used in in the the preparation used and excellent excellent soups soups and and sauces sauces can can be be made made from from them. them. and

'B€lon'oysters 'Bélon' oyslers

Portuguese oyslers oysters Portuguese

Marenne Marenne oysters oyslers (Marveilles (Marveilles de de mer mer-- Charlot Char/oll. Phol. Larowse'l Larousse) I. Phot.

1840 1840itit became became necessary necessary to to call cali in in aa naval naval vessel vessel at at Arcachon Arcachon

to guard the the oyster oyster beds beds in in the the bay. bay. But But the the beds, beds, once once to guard depleted, not be be replenished replenished by by 'spontaneous 'spontaneous generageneradepleted, could could not tion'. The Administration Administration of of Fisheries Fisheries realised realised that that new new tion'. The oysters oysters would would have have to to be be brought brought to to the the depleted depleted beds. beds. Coste, ofthe the oyster oyster industry, industry, went went to to Lake Lake Coste, the the true true father father of Fusaro Fusaro and and studied studied the the methods methods by by which which the the Italians Italians maintained maintained aa supply supply of of excellent excellent oysters. oysters. The The man-made man-made oyster Tarento consisted oysterbeds bedsof ofTarento consisted of ofstakes stakes tied tied tosether togetherwith with

OYSTERS AS AS COLD COLD HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE. HoRs-D'cuvRE HORS-D'ŒUVRE OYSTERS FROIDS - Oysters must not not be be opened opened until until just just before before FRorDs - Oysters must serving, and and are are best best served served very very cold. cold. It It is is therefore therefore adadserving,

658 658

OYSTER OYSTER

How How to to open openan anoyster oysteratatthe the hinge; hinge; Using Using an an oyster oyster knife knife (Marveilles Chtrlot mer de (Marveil/es de mer - Char/Ol I), 1). with with the the hand hand Protected protected by by aa special special glove; g1ovc; Using U sing the the (La opener oyster oyster opener (La Sam' SamLar ow se) ho t. P itaine. ar aritaine. Phol. Larousse)

visable whenever whenever possible possible to to lay lay them them as soon soon as as they they are are visable opened on on aa bed bed of of crushed crushed ice. ice. Eaten in in this this way, way, with with the the opened or evening evening meal, meal, the the oyster provides provides a a nourishing nourishing midday or midday delicious hors-d'auvre' hors-d'œuvre. Its dressing is is usually usually simple, simple, and d;[ciols consisting of lemon juice juice or shallot vinegar vinegar with with coarsely coarsely consisting pepper. pepper. ground -ground of buttered brown brown or or white white bread are are usually served Slices of oysters. with fresh oysters. 24 lTREs A Oysters ià I'andalouse. l'andalouse. Ht HuîTRES À L',lNoltousn L'ANDALOUSE -- Poach 24 cloth' in aa clotho and dry in oysters in their own liquor. Drain them and oysters Remove the beards beards and leave them to cool. them making them Decorate each with with aa little sliver of truffie, truffie, making leave and leave half-set jelly and some half-setjelly stick withjelly, with jelly, then spoon over sorne till they are quite cold. in shape shape as regular regular in shells as Choose oyster shells 12 deep deep halves of oyster Choose 12 with them with fill them and fi.ll as thoroughly, and them thoroughly, possible. Wash Wash them as possible. mousse), tomato mousse), Cold tomalo (see TOMATO, TomalO TOMATO, Cold mousse (see Tomato mousse with Mask with shell. Mask each shell. on each doming oysters on Put 22 oysters little. Put doming itit aa little. jelly and half-set leave ta to set. set. and leave half-set jelly dish' on aa dish. ice on crushed ice Arrange in aa bed of crushed bed of oysters in the oysters Arrange the Poach EN BARQUETTES BARQUETTes -- Poach Oysters nulrRrs EN barquettes. HuîTRES in barquettes. Oysteis in with Mask them them with the beards. Mask the beards. remove the and remove drain and oysters, drain the oysters, truffies with truffIes (see SAUCE). Decorate with glazing SAUCE). Decorate glazing mayonnaise mayonnaise (see jelly' (crayfish). Mask with jelly. Mask with and lobster (crayfish). roe of spiny lobster of aa spiny ind the the roe Garnish blind. Garnish baked blind. Set barquettes baked little barquet/es pairs in in little in pairs Set them them in or mousse or vegetable mousse with (seeSALAD) SALAD) aa vegetable salad (see Rzssran salad with Russian parsley' green curly curly parsley. with green other œuvre filling. Garnish with filling' Garnish hors-d'&uvre other hors-d' blind Bakeblind Oysters cAVIAR - - Bake AU CAVIAR HUITRES AU caviare. HuîTRES with caviare. Oysters with Fill (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fill tartlet paste(see lining paSle Frne Iining using Fine shells, using tartlet shells, single each ontop topaasingle Place on freshcaviare. caviare. Place with 1I tablespoon tablespoon fresh each with with parsley and andserve serve with shelled freshparsley with fresh Garnish with oyster.Garnish shelled oyster. lemon lemon.. the andthe moment,and The lastmoment, theIast filledatattbe befilled must be The tartlets tartlets must justasasthey about totobebe areabout oysters theyare andshelled shelledjust opened and oysters opened wellserved . Oysters servedininwellbeserved alsobe canalso caviarecan andcaviare Oysters and served. washed shells. oystershells. washed oyster GASTRoNoME - The DUGASTRONOME nuirnssDU oyster. HuîTRES gastronome's oyster. Thegastronome's and beardsand thebeards Poach Removethe them'Remove drainthem. anddrain tL.oysters oytt.ttand Poachthe sauceà dlala leave Chaud'froidsauce witha aChaud-froid themwith Coatthem cool.Coat leavetotocool. (seeSAUCE). Cover hongroise SAUCE)'Coyer stock(see vegetablestock onvegetable basedon hongroisebased withjelly . with jelly. (q'v')' Cook whitecourl-bouillon court-bouillon(q.v.). heartsinina awhite artichokehearts tinyartichoke Cooktiny juice.Just Steep serving,fillfill beforeserving, Justbefore lemonjuice. andlemon oiland themininoil Steepthem dressed tbese truffiesdressed dicedtruffies anddiced tailsand crayfishtails witha asalad saladofofcrayfish thesiwitb with oysteronon Putananoyster mayonnaise.Put gelatine-strengthenedmayonnaise. withgelatine-strengthened top each one. one. topofofeach garnishwith with Arrange andgarnish dishand heartsonona adish artichokehearts theartichoke Artut g.the chopped jelly. choppedjelly. Marinated oysters' theoysters. Shellthe uen'rNf,rs- -Shell nulrnrsMARINÉES oysters.HuîTRES Marinatedoysters.

and lemon juice' oil and wine, oil white wine, of white marinade of in aa marinade them in Put them Put lemon juice, advance' prepared in and herbs with well seasoned seasoned with herbs and prepared in advance. weil from the stove' once at them remove and remove them at once from the boil and the bail Bring to to the Bring stove . Leave until they are bowl' Leave into aabowl. oysters into and oysters stock and th1stock Pour the Pour until they are dishes with the marinhors-d'euvre dishes them ininhors-d'œuvre quite cold. Serve them cold. Serve quite with the marinade. ade. HoRS-D'GUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE HOT HORS-D'ŒUVRE. AS HOT OYSTERS AS OYSTERS oysters, forcooked cookedoysters, recipesfor great man many areaagreat There are cHAUDS- - There CHAUDS y recipes section' in this given are which of known the best the best known of which are given in this section. always mustalways prepared, they theymust beprepared, aretotobe oystersare Howeveroysters However liquor. ownliquor. theirown poached inintheir firstbe bepoached first away from themaway Prisethem oysters.Prise theoysters. Open the poachoyslers. oysters.Open Topoach To from pan, with in a them Put flesh. the tearing without shells the the shells without tearing the flesh . Put them in a pan, with the boil' Bringtotothe muslin.Bring through muslin. strainedthrough liquorstrained ownliquor theirown their boil. the pan from removethe bubble,remove liquidbegins beginstotobubble, theliquid Assaon soonasasthe As pan from thestove. stove. the halves of deephalves thedeep servedininthe areoften oftenserved oystersare Cookedoysters Cooked of cheese withcheese glazedororsprinkled sprinkledwith aretotobebeglazed theyare theirshells. shells.IfIlthey their salt layer of a in embedded be must theshells shellsmust be embedded in a layer of salt andbrowned, browned.the and upright' keepthem themupright. sheet,totokeep bakingsheet, ona abaking spreadon spread quickly, veryquickly, accomplished very mustbebeaccomplished browningmust andbrowning Glazingand Glazing tough. from becoming prevent oysters the to to prevent the oysters from becoming tough. Put r'llvrfrucenr- -Put sulrnnsÀaL'AMÉRICAINE I'am6ricaineJ. I.HuîTRES bystersà il'américaine Oysters themonona a Laythem shells.Lay theirshells. halvesofoftheir deephalves thedeep oystersininthe theoysters the dropsofof fewdrops Squeezea afew salt.Squeeze cookingsalt. withcooking linedwith sheetlined bakingsheet baking with a touch and season juice oyster each on lemonIemon juice 0!1 each oyster and season with a touch ofof pepper. cayenne cayenne pepper. -sprintie melted themmelted overthem Pourover breadcrumbs.Pour friedbreadcrumbs. withfried Sprinkle with Browninina a pepper'Brown andpepper. saltand lemon,salt withlemon, seasonedwith butterseasoned butter parsley. freshparsley. withfresh Garnishwith hotoyen. oven.Garnish veryhot very Put I'ltrafntcl'tNe- -Put sulrnssÀ AL'AMÉRICAINE I'am6ricaineII.II.HuîTRES Oystersà Il'américaine Oysters 659 659

OYSTER OYSTER

Oystersdlilalaflorentine ~orentine(Robert (Robert Carrierl Carrier) Oysters

the the oysters oysters back back in in the the deep deep halves halves of of their their shells. shells. Cover Cover with with American American sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Compound Compound white white sauces) sauces) with liquor of ofthe the oysters oysters added. added. Garnish Garnish with the the concentrated concentrated liquor with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. Attereaux Attereaux ofofoysters oysters--- See See HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot HOI horshorsd'euvre. d'œuvre. Oyster Oyster barquettes barquettes ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. BAReuETTEs BARQUETTES D'HUITRES D'HUîTRES

L'AMÉRICAINE - Bake barquettes bljnd. blind. Fill Fill each each with with I1 AÀ t'auEnrcArNE - Bake barquettes tablespoon American American sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). place Place on on top top 22 tablespoon or 33 poached, poached, drained drained and and trimmed trimmed oysters. oysters. Sprinkle Sprinkle with witb or freid breadcrumbs, breadcrum bs, and and season season with with aa touch touch of of cayenne cayenne freid pepper. pepper. Oyster barquettes barquettes ià la la Nantua. Nantua. BAReuETTns BARQUETTES o,nulrnrs D'HUîTRES AÀ Oyster LA NANTUA NANTUA - Fill cooked barquettes barquettes with with I1tablespoon tablespoon of of LA - Fill cooked

660 660

OYSTER OYSTER PLANT PLANT ragoût of of Crayfish Crayfish tails tails dà la la Nantua Nantua (see (see RAGOOD. RAGOÛT). put Put Z2 ragofrt poached oysters oysters on on top of ofeach. each. Coat Coat with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see Sprinkle with grated grated cheese, cheese, and and brown brown quickly quickly SAUCE). Sprinkle in the the oven. oven. in Oyster barquettes barquettes ià la la normande. normande. s.AnQuntrEs BARQUETTES D'HUltnEs D'HuîTRES Oyster LA NonuANDE NORMANDE -- Fill Fill barquenes barquettes with with a salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of AÀ rr crayfish tails, tails, mussels mussels and and mushrooms mushrooms blended ina Normande Normande crayfish sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAU CE). Put Put 22 poached poached oysters oysters on on top top of of each. each. sauce Mask with Normande Normande sauce. sauce. Put Put aa strip of of truffie truffie on top of of Mask each barquette. barquette. each bouchées. Bouct$Es BOUCHÉES lux AUX HullnEs HuîTRES - See See HORSHORSOyster bouch6es.

over over them. them. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and and garnish garnish with with fresh fresh parsley. parsley. for as for Oysters Oysters au au gratin II. n. sulrnrs HuîTRES AU AU cRATIN GRATIN - Proceed Proceed as Oysters Oyslers dà l'amiricaine Ll. Grilled Grilled oysters, oysters, also also called caUed devilled devilled oysters. oysters. nuirnrs HUÎTRES the beards drain and cnrurfns, - Poach, GRJLLÉES, A À r.A LA mlsrs DlABLEPoach, drain and remove rem ove the beards skewers. of of the the oysters. oysters. Thread Thread them them on on little [ittle metal metal skewers. pepper, lemon, salt salt and and pepper, Pour Pour melted melted butter, butter, seasoned seasoned with with lemon, seasoned them in over over the the oysters. oysters. Dip Dip them in fine fine breadcrumbs breadcrumbs seasoned Serve low flame. flame. Serve Grill under with with a a little little cayenne cayenne pepper. pepper. Grill under aa low (see below). Serve skewers (see on skewers as Oyslers Oysters on in in the the same same way way as below). Serve (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with Diable sauce with sauce (see Line the the uonNlv -- Line le MORNAY A LA nulrnns À Oysters ài la la Mornay. Mornay. HuîTRES (see sauce (see with Mornay sauce shells with oyster sbells of the the oyster deep halves deep halves of same the same Cover with the of each. each. Cover on top top of oyster on SAUCE). SA U CE). Put an oyster pour on melted on melted grated Parmesan, Parmesan, pour with grated sauce. Sprinkle with sauce. Sprinkle fresh with fresh Garnish with hot oven. oven. Garnish very hot in aa very and brown butter butter and brown in parsley. parsley. porowAlsE -- Put the Put the r,c' POLONAISE sultnns ÀA LA la polonaise. HuîTRES Oysters ài la with Sprinkle with shells. Sprinkle their shells. of their deep halves of in the deep oysters back in parsley chopped parsley and chopped egg and yolks of hard-boiled egg of hard-boiled chopped yolks chopped pour 1I tablespoon tablespoon serving, pour oven. Just Just before serving, and warm in the oven. over each each oyster. breadcrumbs over fried breadcrumbs with fried butter with browned butter o'HUiTREs - Thread BRocHErrEs D'HUÎTRES skewers. BROCHETTES Oysters 00 on skewers. Oysters of cooked cooked with slices slices of little metal metal skewers skewers with poached oysters on little oysters on with seasoned with melted butter butter seasoned Pour melted in between. between. Pour mushroom in mushroom in fine Dip them fine breadbreadthem in over them. them. Dip and pepper over lemon juice and grill under aa low low heat. heat. and grill crumbs and halffluted halfof fluted with aa border border of surround with When serving, serving, surround When parsley. garnish with with parsley. lemon and and garnish of lemon slices of slices of or with with one one of d'hdtel buller, butter, or Mattre d'hôlel melted Maitre with melted Sprinkle with Sprinkle (see BUTTER, grilled fish BUTTER, fish (see for grilled suitable for especially suitable the sauces sauces especially the SAUCE). butters ; SAUCE). Compound butlers; Comvoutld taw Pound 12 12 raw sourrrfes -- Pound suirnns SOUFFLÉES Oyster soufflés. soufres. HUÎTRES raw white of of 1I raw little, the the white in, little little by by little, Mix in, mortar. Mix in aa mortar. oysters in oysters

Pallies with with oYsters. D'(EUVRE, Patties Oyster coquilles coquilles -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, Scallop shells Oyster of oysters. oyslers. of Oysters ià la la crime. crème. sulrnes HuîTRES curtm6ns GRATINÉES .i À La LA cniMs CRÈME Oysters Detach the the oysters from the shell, sheli, remove beards, beards, and put Detach the oyster' oyster. Sprinkle 11 tablespoon cream in each shell with the melted butter and and Parmesan Parmesan cheese cheese and grill with a little melted under a fairly fairly high flame. flame. under Croquettes. Oyster croquettes croquettes -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Croquelles. Oyster DeviUed oysters oysters -- See See below, Grilled oysters. Grilled oys/ers. Devilled Fill rronrNTINE -- Fill HuîTRES A À LA la FLORENTINE Oysters ià la florentine. Hulrnss with aa layer of spinach the deep halves of the oyster shells with cooked in butter. Put an an oyster on top of each. Cover with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle with cheese and brown brown Mornay oven. in the oven. ove remove and rem Poach, drain and nulrnrs FRITES -- Poach, Fried oysters. HuîTRES the beards beards from flour them, them, in milk milk and and flour Dip in oysters. Dip from the the oysters. the shaking off any excess flour. fat. Drain in boiling fat. flour. Deep-fry in and dry on aa c1oth. cloth. Season with fine salt. Garnish with lemon and fried parsley. and fried Poach, coLBERT -- Poach, nulrnns FRJTES FRITES COLBERT Fried oysters Colbert. HuîTRES drain in egg Dip them egg them in of the the oysters. oysters. Dip remove the beards of drain and remove and breadcrumbs and lemon and and with lemon fry them. Garnish with them. Garnish and fry and breadcrumbs (see BUTTER, fried parsley, Serve buller (see BUTTER, Mattre d'hôtel d'h6telbutter with Maître Serye with

egg.

Compound butters).

andstir stir itit bowl and mixture inin aa bowl Put the the mixture sieve. Put Rub through aa sieve. pikeforcemeat Fine pike o2.,2 ice. Add Add 30 g.g. (1(l oz., on 2 tablespoons) Fine forcemeat on ice. dl' about 22 dl. and about (see FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS) and FORCEMEATS or (see cream. ($ pint, fresh cream. pint, scant cup) thick thick fresh scant cup) (jPutaa shell. Put each oyster shell. mixture inineach of the the mixture Put 22 teaspoons of Put forcemeat and and of this forcemeat on top top of oyster on poached and drained drained oyster poached doming itit Smooth,doming mixture. Smooth, of soufflé souffi6 mixture. layer of with aa layer cover cover with slightly. slightly. minutes. for 66toto88minutes. ovenfor Bake Bake inin the the oven and 24 oystersand Shell 24 nulrnrs - - Shell lux HuîTRES souPE AUX soup. SOUPE Oyster soup. dl' liquor. Add22dl. strainedliquor. pan.Pour over their their strained Pour over put them ininaapan. (] pint, pint, scant white wine. wine. cup) white scant cup) Add low.Skim. very low. Skim.Add flame very theflame turnthe thenturn Bring Bring to tothe the boil, boil, then (scant <Îi cup) cup) cream,33tablespoons tablespoons(scant pint,scant cup) cream, 22dl. scantcup) dl.(j(+pint, cut cup)butter buttercut oz.,i*cup) 100g.g.(4(4oz., and100 crushed crackers,and crushedbiscuit biscuit crackers, cayenne with aatouch touchofofcayenne Spicewith Season.Spice into fragments. Season. into tinyfragments. with andserve servewith intoaatureen tureen and soup into pepper. Mix. Pour Pour the thesoup crackers. crushedcrackers. Poach vILLERoI - -Poach o'HUITREs VILLEROI Oysters BRocHETTEs D'HUîTRES Villeroi. BROCHETTES OystersViUeroi. (see sauce(see Villeroisauce withVilleroi themwith and Cover them oysters.Cover drain the theoysters. and drain frytbem them andfry metalskewers skewersand SAUCE). littlemetal onlittle Thread them themon SAUCE).Thread parsley. just before garnishwith withparsley. just andgarnish Drainand serving.Drain beforeserving.

Fritot. HORS-D'(EUVRE, Fritot. fritot -- See See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Oyster fritot p'nulrnns Ài, LA Oyster Le nHcNBrs D'HUîTRES la normande. normande. BEIGNETS fritters ài la Oyster fritters NORMANDE in cool in to cool leave them them to and leave oysters and Poach the the oysters NoRMANDE -- Poach their Dip cloth. Dip with aa clotho wipe them them with and wipe Drain and liquor. Drain own liquor. their own them (see SAUCE) adding SAUCE) adding Villeroi sauce sauce (see in Villeroi one in one by one them one (see chopped in batter batter (see Dip them them in and vegetables. Dip chopped truffies and BA TTERS FOR hot fat fat in very very hot and deep-fry deep-fry in FOR FRYING) and BATTERS until are aa and are full extent extent and to their their full fritters have have swelled to until the the fritters golden golden colour. colour. Drain salt. fine salt. dry fine with dry Season with cloth. Season on aa cloth. Drain them them on Oysters Shell PouR GARNITURES cARNITUREs -- Shell nulrnrs POUR garnishing. HuîTRES for gamishing. Oysters for the liquor. own liquor. poach them in their their own them in and poach oysters and the oysters Remove liquor begins begins as the the liquor pan from as soon soon as heat as from the the heat Remove the the pan to proceed according to according to and proceed oysters and the oysters and trim trim the Drain and to boil. boil. Drain the pe used. recipe used. the reci If the oysters hot inin keep them them hot once, keep at once, not to be used usedat to be are not Ifthe oysters are their that to see see that must be be taken taken to liquor. Care Care must own strained strained Iiquor. their own they addedtoto andadded liquor isisstrained strained and The oyster oyster liquor not boil. do not boil. The they do the the sauce. sauce. Oysters deep Fill the thedeep AU GRATIN GRATIN - - FiJI sulrnEs AU gratin J.I. HuîTRES au gratin Oysters au halves (q.v').Put Putan an layer of ofduxelles duxelles (q.v.). with aalayer of oyster oyster shells shells with halves of oyster each oyster. oyster. ofeach top of ontop mushroom on and aamusbroom on each eachshell shell and oyster on Cover (seeSAUCE), oyster with the the oyster SAUCE), with sauce (see with Duxelles Duxelles sauce Cover with melted Pouron onmelted with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pour added. Sprinklewith liquor added. of few dropsof pepper and andaa few and pepper saltand with salt butter seasoned with lemon. have been they have Afterthey hot oven. oven.After very hot Brown inin aavery lemon. Brown taken juice lemonjuice oflemon drops of fewdrops squeezeaafew oven, squeeze outof ofthe the oven, taken out

sometimes wader,sometimes OYSTER uulrnmn - - AAwader, CATCHER. HuîTRJER OYSTER CATCHER. quite youngbird birdisisquite called fleshofofthe theyoung Theflesh sea-magpie.Tbe called sea-magpie. plover. delicate. preparedininthe sameway wayasasplover. thesame delicate.ItItisisprepared

OYSTER SeeSALSIFY. SALSIFY. OYSTERPLANT PLANT - -See

661 661

pascarete, isis This word, word, which which isisaavariation variation of of Pascarete, PPACARET ACARET -- This used to to define define wine wine of of the the Jerez Jerez district district of of Spain. Spain. The The name name of of used the wine wine isis derived derived from from the the name name of of the the small small town town of of the Paxarete or or Pajarete Pajarete in in the the Jerez Jerez sherry-producing sherry-producing district. district. Paxarete grapes gathered The grapes gathered there yield very juice, which there yield very sweet sweet juice, which isis The treated with with brandy brandy to prevent ilit fermenting, to prevent fermenting, and and results results in in treated the Paxarete or Pajarete liqueur wane. wine. This This used used to to be be mueh much in in the vogue in England in the '-'5"'1..''-''','' eighteenth century. century.

PAINS PNNS -- French French lerm term for for disnes, dishes, served served cold cold or or hot, hot, made made of of aa forcemeat in a bainforcemeat placed placed in in aa special special mould poachedinabainmould and and poached marie, marie, in in the the case case of of aa dish dish being served served hot; hot; and and set set in in aa mould, mould, lined lined with with aspic jelly and chilled chilled when when served served cold. cold. This This type type of of entrée entriehasbeen replaced replaced by mousses, which which are are _ also also prepared bot hot or or cold. cold. The The various various ingredienis used used for for the forcemeats are, the are, as as indicated indicated in in '''''l'v,'',,'''' individual recipes, liver (foie gras), game (joie game meat (winged and meat (winged and ground game)j poultry, vegetables, as as well well as as fish fish and and shellfish. For ,""ip", ,i"

PAftLLA -- Spanish Spanish rice rice dish dish which gained international which has has gained international fame. Different Different regîons regions of of Spain Spain vary vary the paëlla paElla according according to to fame. the local local produce. produce. Vegetables, Vegetables, meal, meat, chicken chicken and and sausagc, ,arrsige, the characterise the pa6llas of the paëllas of interior interior Spain Spain; Valencia Valencia and eharacterise Barcelona specialise specialise in in combining combining sea foods with chieken chicken and Barcelona vegetables in the the rice base. The The name of the dish cornes comes from vegetables in rice base. the pan with the iron iron frying frying pan with two handles, the padlla, paëlla, in which the rice served. cooked and and served. rice is is cooked The following following is is aa Valencian Valencian pa6lla: Heat 3 tablespoons _ The (sc1lt in aa deep iron frying pan with 2 cloies of (scant * cup) oil oil in garlic, garlic, finely chopped. chopped. Add 2 chopped-onions, and 2 diced sweet sweet red rcd peppers. peppers. Add Add to to this this I1 small chicken cut eut in small sma]] pieces, and225 pieces, and 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz.) oz.) pork, pork, ham ham or or beefsteak beefsteak cut in small dice. and add add 44 peeled and and quartered quartered small dice. Brown Brown the the meat meat and tomatoes. tomatoes. Stir Stir in in 675 675 g. g. (l+ (11 lb.) lb.) rice and and cook cook gently gently for for 55 minutes. minutes. Cover Cover with with well-seasoned well-seasoned stock to (0 which which aa pinch pinch of of saffron saffron has has been been added. added. Add Add 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.) oz.) shelled shelled p"ai, peas, l25 175 g. g. (6 oz.) fresh kidney beans and several artichoke hearts. Cool (6 oz.) fresh kidney beans and several artichoke hearts. Cook l0 10 minutes minutes more more and and then thcn add add 450 450 g. g. (l lb.) lb.) cod, cod, whiting whiting or or hake hake cut eut in in small small pieces, pieces, I1lobster lobster or crayfish, also also cut cut in În siall small pJeces, n1 e. (8 oz.) shrimps or prawns,6 dl. (l pint, 2f cups) pieces, 225 g. (8 oz.) shrimps or prawns, (1 pint, 2t cups) thoroughly or imall small clams. clams. goil Boil harf, hard foi for 55 Ihorougnly washed washed mussels mussels or minutes minutes and and simmer simmer for for 15 J 5 more, more, adding adding more more stock stock as as n€cessary. necessary. The The rice nec should should be he moist moist but but not flot soupy. When When the the rice is nee is cooked, cooked, place placethe the pa€lla paëlJa inin the the oven oven for for aa few minutes. minutes. Chopped Chopped parsley parsley isis added added before before serving. serving. Small Small inkfish inkiisn or or squid squid and and garlic garlic sausages may may also also be be added added to to the the above above ingredients. ingredients. The The inkfish are are usually fried fricd in in the the oil oil before before adding addingthe therice, rice,and andthe thegarlic garlic added after aCterthe themeat meathas has been becn browned. brownoo.

LOAVES.

PALADRU PALADRU-- See See CHEESE. PALAIS-ROYAL (Café (Caf6 du) du) -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE DA YS. BYGONE DAYS. PALATE OF OF OX. ox. PALATE

pALArs PALAIS DE DE BoEuF BOEUF - See or See OFFAL OFFAL or

VARIETY MEATS, Ox palote. VARIETY Ox palate.

-

PALE ALEALE-light beer. PALE Light English beer.

PALETS PALETSDEDAMESLittle dry dry petit petitfou.rs (fancy biscuits). biscuits). DE DAMES - Little fours (fancy ln ta aa hot hot bowl bowl put put 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., I1generous generous cup) cup) fine fine sugai, sugar, Into and and 66 eggs. Stir Stir well weil with with aa wooden wooden spoon. When When the the mixture mixture is is frothy add add 250 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,2f oz., 2tcups) flour. still still stirring. stirring. cups) siived flour, Put on on aa buttered baking baking sheet,lightly sheet, with flour. flour. Put sprinkled with Bake Bake in in aa hot hot oven. oven. Glaze Glaze with witb water water icing (confectioners' (confectioncrs'

frosting). frosting). Palets de de dames dames (which (which are are sometimes sometimes written written palais) P:lets palais) can can be flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, lemon lemon or or orange orange rind rind oi or uny any oth., other be flavouring. flavouring.

-

PALETTE PALETTEKMFE. KNIFE. AMASETTE AMASEITE - Small utensil used used in în pastry_ pastry- Small utensil ma king for for picking pickingup up dough. dough. making

PALMAE. P ALMJ\E. pALrurER PALMIER - Name of aa large large family family of of trees, of of - Name -the trees, of which the the fruit fruit (dates), (dates), the the nuts nuts (coionut), (coconut), the terminal terminal which shoolS (cabbage (cabbage palm), palm), the the pith pith or or interior interior of of the the stem stem shoots

(t1goJ, and andthe thesap sap(palm (palmwine) wine)are areused usedinincookery. cookery.

PNLLASSE PAILLASSE-- French French name name for for aacharcoal charcoalfire flre which which was was used usedininkitchens kitchensofoflong longago agototoprepare preparedishes dish~which whichneeded necded prolonged proJongedcooking, cooking,especially especiallybraised braisedmeat. meat.

hearts. coEURs COEURS DE DE pALMTER PALMTER - The hearts or or tender tender Paln hearts. - The hearti shoots shoots of ofpalms palms are are cooked cooked like like asparagus. asparagus. peel Pecl the the stalks stalks completely completely and and boil boil in in salted salted water. water. Serve Serve hot hot with with various various orcold colddàlalavinaigrette. vinaigrelle. whitesauces saucesor white Palm Palmhearts heartscan canalso alsobe beprepared preparedininvarious variousother otherways: ways:tià lalacrirne, crème,stewed stewedininbutter, butter,iningravy, gravy,au augratin,with gratin, withparmlsan Parmesan cheesc,dàlalapolonaise, polonaise, and andiningeneral gcneralininany anyway waysuitable suitablefor for cheese, asparagus(q.v.) (q.v.)ororcardoon cardoon(q.v.). (q.v.). asparagus

shaped shapedbrick brickbrazier. brazier.

PALM PALMOIL. OIL.nulr HUILEDE DEpALME PALME-See OIL. - SeeOIL.

PAILLARD See RESTAURANTS PAILLARD_-See RESTAURANTSOF OFBYGONE BYGONEDAYS. DAYS.

Meat on glowing glowing embers embers in in aa bucketbucketMeal was was also also grilled grilled on

The The term termpaillasse paillasse isis also a1so used used to to describe describe the the layer layer of of glowing glowingcharcoal cnarcoalembers embersspread spreadout outon onthe thegrill. grill.

PALMIER PALMIER (Pf,tisserie) (Pâtisserie)-- Paris Paris speciality, specialîty, prepared prepared inîn the the

_

followîng way. followingway. 662 662

PANETONE PANETONE

How to fold the pastry to make (Larousse) palmiers (Larousse)

to cul cut and and shape How lo shape palmiers ()l l'Alsacienne. Phot. Larousse) Larousse\ (À l'Alsaciennc. Phol.

Roll puff pastry 1I cm. (i inch) thick on aa table sprinkled Roll out puffpastry @inch) with icing sugar instead instead of flour. flour. Cut into into strips 30 30 cm. crn. (12 inches) wide. strips together inches) wide. Bring two ends these strips Bring the the two ends of these towards the centre lengthways. centre and fold in two, lengthways. cut them across few moments, then cut Leave to settle settle for aa few pieces 6 mm. Ct inch) thick. into pieces $inch) Put these on a baking sheet, placing placing them at a little distance Put from each other. Bake in a hot oyen. oven.

gently Cook gently 250 g. (9 oz., 1llcups) t cu ps) thinly slice slice boiled potatoes. Cook for 15 minutes. smooth mixture. for minutes. Blend weil well to obtain obtain aa smooth panada, while Use Use this while itit isis still still warm, warm, for for white white meat this panada, quenelles. (7 oz., g. (7 Rice Rice panada. PANADE Rrz -- Cook Cook 200 200 g. oz.,l1 cup) cup) nANADE AU AU RIZ (l pint, 2i g. stock to 25 g. Italian rice in 6 dl. (1 2t cups) cups) white white stock to which which 25 (l oz., about (1 o2.,22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter have been added, added, allowing allowing about 50 minutes' cooking well to in the oyen. Blend weil to obtain obtain aa cooking time in oven. Blend smooth mixture. for Flour Leave Leave until in the the recipe recipe for until cold, cold, as as described described in panada. Uses. For various forcemeats. Uses. For

pALME -- Fruit of the elaeis P ALM NUT. NUT. Norx NOIX DE elaeis of New PALM DE PALME Guinea, varying from to that that of aa hazel nut nut to from the the size size of aa hazel walnut. Palm oil is extracted extracted from these nuts.

PALOURDE given to PALOURDE -- Name given to aa kind of squash (vegetable marrow) in sorne marrow) some parts of of France.

PAN CAKES - See PAI\CAKESSee CRÊPES. CREPES. PANCHO-VILA (Chilean cookery) haricot PAI\CHO-VILA (ChlJean Small white white haricot cookery) -- Small beans sautéed garlic, then with tomato tomato with onion and garlic, then bound with onion and saut6ed with sauce. ramekins, into individual individual ramekins, sauce. The The mixture mixture isis spooned spooned into topped cheese, with Parmesan Parmesan cheese, topped with aa poached egg, egg, sprinkled sprinkled with and glazed. and glazed.

PALUS -- Vineyards planted on the aUuvial in alluvial tracts of land in the Bordeaux region and on the estates bordering banks bordering the banks of Dordogne and Gironde. of the Garonne, Dordogne PANADA. PANADE -- This PANADA. IANADE to two two different This name name applies applies to preparations: preparations: one aa kind of soup, milk soup, made of bread, stock, milk or water and butter; the other aa paste of flour, bread, toast flour, bread, (biscottes) or various starches, used fish binding meat meat or fish used for binding forcemeats. forcemeats. pArN - Soak Bread panada. PANADE oz.) white AU PAIN IANADE AU - Soak 250 g.g. (9 oz.) crustless (j pint, pint, li the uustless bread in in 3 dl. (i lf cups) cups) boiled milk until the milk is as the time, as all the is absorbed. absorbed. Blend the mixture, mixture, stirring ail described in the recipe for (see below). panada(see for Flour Flour panada Leave until quite cold, as as for flour panada. Uses. For fish forcemeats. Uses. For forcemeats. pouR FARCE FJour panada for rA, Flour panada nlnce ÀA LA for forcemeat. forcenest. PANADE nANADE POUR FARINE -- Pour 3 dl. (+ pint, pint, li into aa saucepan, l{ cups) cups) water into dl. (i add 50 g. (2 oz., in 150 150 salt. Pour in and tt teaspoon teaspoon salt. oz.,*i cup) c,rp) butter and g. (5 oz., g. (5 stirring flour. Mix weil well on oz., li lf cups) cups) sieved flour. on the heat, stirring with thickens, with aa wooden wooden spoon. the mixture spoon. Cook Cook until until the mixture thickens, leaving des of the pan clean. leaving the si sides Put into aa buttered dish, spread cover with an even spread in an even layer, coyer a piece ofbuttered quite cold. of buttered paper and leave until quite cold. Uses. Uses. For ail all quenelle forcemeats. Frangipane g. Frangipane panada. PANADE Mix 125 125 g. IANADE À A LA r,l, FRANGIPANE rnrNcrpANE -- Mix (44 (4t oz., in aa pan, egg yolks in oz., generous cup) sieved sieved flour and and 44 egg stirring (4 oz., icup) g. (4 melted stirring with aa wooden wooden spoon. Add 100 I 00 g. I cup) melted butter, tt teaspoon salt, grated nutmeg. nutmeg. of grated salt, pepper and aa pinch of Stirring all lute the mixture (scant I dl. (scant with2l dl. dilute mixture with all the time, di pint, poured in pint, generous cup) in little little by by little. milk, poured cup) boiling milk, Cook for 55 or 66 minutes, beating with aa whisk. beating vigorously vigorously with Leave until cold, as as above. above. Uses. Uses. For chicken and and fish forcemeats. plNlpe ÀA LA poMME DE Potato panada. PANADE dl. DE TERRE TERRE -- Season Season 33 dl. LA POMME (i$ pint, 1I it cups) milk with tf teaspoon salt, pinch of of pepper salt, aa pinch and aa touch of grated grated nutmeg. has been been reduced reduced nutmeg. Boil Boil until itit has by one-sixth, then add (l oz., g. (1 add 25 25 g. and oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter and

2t

PANETIÈRE PANETIDRE -- Small carved with with Small sideboard sideboard dresser, dresser, usually carved lattice lattice work, France, bread work, in bread isis in which, which, in in sorne regions of of France, some regions kept. kept.

PANETIDRE -- Method preparation applied PANETIÈRE Method of of preparation applied to to various various (lambs' sweetbreads, articles (Iambs' articles sweetbreads, chicken and chicken livers, cocks' cocks' combs combs and kidneys, etc.), placed or to After cooking cooking they etc.), or to small small birds. birds. After they are are placed (q.v.), and gblden in in in croustades uoustades (q.v.), and baked golden in the the oyen. oven. (18 oz., (Italian cake) g. li8 PPAI\ETONE ANETONE (Italian 500 g. oz., 4t Ingredients.500 cake) -- Ingredients. $ (3 oz., (4 oz., g. (3 g. (4 cups) 6 o2.,6 cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 125 c.rp) butter, butter, 75 75 g. oz., i* cup) 125 g. (1 oz.) g. (1 tablespoons) yolks, 25 25 g. oz.) tablespoons) brown sugar, and 44 egg egg yolks, sugar, 33 eggs eggs and (l ozo2.,2 g. (1 yeast, 33 teaspoons dried .. 2 25 g. dried or teaspoons salt, salt, 25 or compressed compressed yeast, (l oz., tablespoons) g. (1 sultanas, tablespoons) fine fine sugar, 25 g. oz., 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) sultanas, sugar, 25 (2 oz., 50 g. (2 cut in in small small dice. dice. 50 g. oz., t{ cup) cup) candied candied citron citron peel cut Method. flour in in aa circle circle on on the the table, table, make make aa Method. Spread Spread the the flour well put in in aa little little well in in the the salt, salt, eggs, eggs, sugar, sugar, in the middle middle and and put in the warm 75 g. (3 oz., (ust softened), g. (3 softened), warm water, water,75 tablespoons) butter (just oz., 66 tablespoons) and yeast. Mix few tablespoons and yeast. adding aa few tablespoons Mix these these ingredients, ingredients, adding warm incorporate the the flour, flour, aa little little warm water, water, little by by little. little. Then Then incorporate at dough at aa time. time. When complete, stir stir the the dough W$en the the moistening isis complete, vigorously the does not not stick stick to to the vigorously u~til and does until itit becomes becomes elastic elastic and hands. (fine) sugar. Spread sugar. with castor castor (fine) Spread itit in in aa layer layer and and sprinkle sprinkle with Add paste. yolks and Add 22 egg softened to to aa paste. rest of egg yolks of the the butter butter softened and the the rest Scatter peel on blend in in citron peel on top top and and blend Scatter sultanas sultanas and and candied candied citron aIl few minutes. minutes. all the the ingredients, ingredients, kneading kneading the the dough dough for for aa few Roll floured baking baking tin, tin, and and Roll into into aa bail, in aa buttered buttered and and floured ball, put in stand place to ferment until until stand in in aa warm wann place allow the the dough dougb to to ferment to allow little remaining surface. Dilute little air Dilute the the 22 remaining air bubbles bubbles appear appear on on the the surface. egg pinch yolks with mix with with aa pinch egg yolks few teaspoons teaspoons ofwater, of water, and and mix with aa few of (confectioner's) sugar. of flour flour and icing (confectioner's) sugar. and the the same same amount amount of of icing

t

663 663

PANICUM PANICUM Brush the the top top liberally liberally with with this this mixture. mixture. Mark Mark the the top top with with aa Brush crossways incision incision and and sprinkle sprinkle with with sugar. sugar. Bake Bake in in the the oyen oven crossways in moderate moderate heat. heat. in

(duxelles), chopped (duxelles), chopped truffles, truffles, or cooked diced diced vegetables or cooked vegetables (mirepoix). Coyer (mirepoix). Cover with with another pancake. Cut another pancake. rounds with Cut rounds with aa fluted cutter. fluted cutter. Add Add to to boiling boiling clear clear soup. soup. Pannequets Pannequets la h Varenne Yarenne -- Spread pancakes with Spread the the pancakes with duxelles duxelles (q.v.) mixed (g.v.) mixed with with aafine fine salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) of ham, ham, bound bound with with aa thick Velouté thick Velouti sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Sprinkle grated Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan and Parmesan and brown brown the the top. top.

pANlc -- Old PANICUM. PANIC Old Latin Latin name name for for one one of of the the millets. millets. PANICUM. Panicum miliaceum miliaceum isis milled milled into into fiour fiour in in Italy, Italy, and and used used to to Panicum prepare aa kind kind of of meal, meal, with with milk milk or or stock. stock. prepare

PAI{IER - Wickerwork Wickerwork basket basket with with aa handle. handle. In In cookery cookery and PANIERand pastry-making various various substances substances are fashioned to are fashioned to look look like like pastry-making wickerwork baskets. baskets. wickerwork pANrERs EN poMMEs DE Potato paniers. paniers. PANIERS EN POMMES DE TERRE TERRE -- These These Potato baskets, used used for for arranging arranging various various fried fried objects, objects, are are made baskets, made potatoes cut from potatoes cut in in thin thin ribbons ribbons and and fried fried in in deep deep fat. fat. from pANrERs EN Pulled sugar paniers. PANIERS sugar paniers. EN SUCRE sucnr TIRÉ nnf -- These These baskets baskets PuJ]ed are used used for for arranging petits fours, arranging petits fours, especially especially iced petits fours. ic ed petits are fours. Bombes, mousses mousses and and iced iced cakes cakes are are also also served served in in them. them. Bombes, They are often extremely pieces, decorative carried out out by by They are often extremely decorative pieces, carried pastry-cooks and and confectioners confectioners who who are are artists artists in in this work. work. pastry-cooks

plwNner;Ers D'ENTREMETS: SWEET SWEET PANNEQUETS. PANNEQUETS. PANNEQUETS D'ENTREr,ftrs : Pannequets with Pannequets with apples apples -- See See APPLE, APPLE, Crêpes Cr€pes stufJed stuffed with with apples. apples. Apricot Apricot pannequets. panneqnets. PANNEQUETS PANNEQUETS AUX AUx ABRlCOTS ABRIC6Ts -- Spread Spread pancakes the pan the cakes with with aa mixture mixture composed composed of of diced diced apricots apricots bound with bound with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) French pastry uearn (see CREAMS) and and mixed mixed with the with the blanched, blanched, chopped chopped apricot apricot kernels, kernels, sprinkled sprinkled with with kirsch. Roll kirsch. Roll up pancakes, cut up the the pancakes, cut each put on each into into 210zenges, 2 lozenges, put on baking sheet, aa baking sheet, sprinkle sprinkle with with icing icing sugar, sugar, glaze in aa very veiy hot hot $aze in oyen oven and and serve. serve. Pannequets ài la Pannequets la cévenole cevenole -- Spread pancakes with Spread the the pancakes with purde (.see (see CHESTNUTS) Chestnut Chestnut purée CHESTNUTS) mixed mixed with with fresh fresh double double cream cream and and flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Finish Finish otT off as as described described above. above. Pannequets ài la la créole pancakes with cr6ole -- Spread Spread the the pancakes with aa (q.v.) ofpineapple salpicon (g.v.) of pineapple bound with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured French pastry cream cream (see CREAMS). Finish otTas offas described above. above. pANNEeuETs AUX Pannequet with Pannequet with various various fruit. fruit. PANNEQUETS AUx FRUITS FRrJrrs DIvERS -- Prepare DIVERS Prepare using (q.v.) of using salpicon salpicon (g.v.) of fruit fruit (bananas, cherries, strawberries, strawberries, peaches, peaches, pears, apples, etc., cooked in bound with syrup) bound pastry cream with French pastry (see cream or or Frangipane Frangipane (see CREAMS). Finish off as described above. offas prc,NNneuETs AUX pannequets. PANNEQUETS Jam Jam pannequets. AUx CONFITURES coNFrrrJREs -- Spread the jam. Roll pancakes pancakes with with jam. Roll or or fold fold in in four four and and finish finish off as as described above. described Pannequets with pineapple -- See See PINEAPPLE. Pannequets au praliné -- Spread the pancakes pancakes with an au pralin6 Spread the with an almond or hazelnut praline bound bound with French pastry cream (see CREAMS), flavoured with kirsch or other ligueur. liqueur. Roll baking pancakes, cut cut each each roll into into 210zenges, up the pancakes, 2 lozenges, put on a a baking sheet, sheet, sprinkle with with finely finely crushed crushed macaroons (g.v.) (q.v.) and glaze. glaze.

Pancakes spread spread with with cream, cream, jam, marPPANNEQUETS ANNEQUETS -- Pancakes malade or or any any other other mixture, mixture, then then rolled rolled or or folded folded in in four, four, malade sprinkled with with ÎCing icing sugar sugar or or crushed crushed macaroons, glazed macaroons, and and glazed sprinkled in the the oyen grill. (For (For the preparation oven or or under aa grill. preparation of pancake in see CRÊPE.) CREPE.) batter, see These pancakes can also be spread spread with savoury mixtures, These especially cream cheese. They are are served served as a hot hors-d'œuvre ftors-d'euvre especially (See also HORS-D'ŒUVRE, as aa small small entrée. entrde. (See HORS-D'(EUVRE. Hot horsor as d'euvre.\ d'œuvre.)

sAvouRy PANNEQUETS PANNEQUETS FOR FOR HORS-D'ŒUVRE HORS-D'(EUVRE SAVOURY AND SOUP. SOUP. PANNEQUETS rlNNequrrs DE HORS-D'ŒUVRE: HoRs-D'crryRE: AND pANNEeuETs AUX Anchovy pannequets. pannequets. PANNEQUETS AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Spread Anchovy pancakes made the pancakes made of of unsweetened unsweetened batter with thick the batter with (see SAUCE) Bdchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) mixed with Anchovy (see Béchamel Anchovy purie purée (see PUREE) and and desalted anchovy fiUets fillets cut in large dice. Fold PURÉE) large dice. the in four. four. Put into aa buttered, ovenproof ovenproof dish, the pancakes pancakes in sprinkle with breadcrumbs fried fried in butter and drained, and sprinkle put oven or under a grill for a few moments. put in aa very very hot oyen moments. Pannequets called ià la Nantua. pANNEeuETS PANNEQUETS Pannequets with crayfish, caUed Atrx fcRnvlssus, A AUX ÉCREVISSES, À LA LA NANTUA NANTUA - As Pannequets with shrimps shrimps (see (see below), below), using using Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and and diced crayfish tails. These These pancakes pancakes can be sprinkled sprinkled with grated Parmesan, Parmesan, instead instead of of fried breadcrumbs, and browned browned in the oven oyen or under aa grill. grill. Pannequets Pannequets Mornay Mornay - Spread Spread the the pancakes pancakes with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) ham and (g.v.) of ofham and mushroom mushroom bound bound with with Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Roll them. Arrange on a buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, cover of Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), coyer with with a a thin thin layer layer of sprinkle sprinkle with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top. top. Pannequets Pannequets ià la-reine la reine - Spread Spread the the pancakes pancakes with with Chicken Chicken purie purée (see (see PUREE) PURÉE) mixed mixed with with diced diced truffies. truffies. Roll Roll the the pancakes lozenges. Cover pancakes and and cut cut each each roll roll into ioto 2210zenges. Coyer each each with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon chicken chicken Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) cooked cooked with with cream. cream. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown the the top. top. Pannequets Pannequets with with shrimps, sbrimps, or or other other shellfish. shellfish. pANNEeuETs PANNEQUETS Aux AUX cREvETTES CREVETTES -- Prepare Prepare as as Anchovy Anchovy pannequets, pannequets, spreading spreading the or other other shellfish shellfish pur6e purée mixed mixed with with the pancakes pancakes with with shrimp shrimp or aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (g.v.) of ofthe the chopped chopped tails tails of ofthe the shellfish. shellfish. pANNEeuETs Panneqnets Pannequets with with soft soft roes. roes. PANNEQUETS AUx AUX LArrANcEs LAITANCES -Spread Spread the the pancakes pancakes with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (g.v.) of of soft soft roes roes and and mushrooms Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), based based mushrooms bound bound with with Velouti on on aa fish fish stock stock and and cooked cooked with with cream. cream. Roll Roll the the pancakes, pancakes, sprinkle sprinkle with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top. top. Panneqrets Pannequets for for soup soup garnish. garnish. pANNEeuETs PANNEQUETS (c,m.mrunrs (GARNITURES on DE porAcE) POTAGE) -- Make Make some sorne very very thin thin pancakes pancakes (see (see CREPE). CRÊPE). Fill Fill each each with with aa basic basic forcemeat forcemeat or or add add drv dry diced diced mushrooms mushrooms

PANOUFLE PANOUFLE *- Term for the under part part of of the top of ofsirloin. sirloin.

PANTIN (peti$ (petit) -- Small oval or rectangular-shaped patty, patty, which may may be be usually filled filled with with a a fine fine pork forcemeat, which usually truffied. truffied.

PANTLER. PANTLER.

-

PANETIER IANETTER

Officer in charge of of the pantry pantry and Officer

master dispenser dispenser of of the the bread bread. master The Lord (le grand grand panetier) panetier) was the the officer officer of of the the Lord Pantler Pantler (le

French royal royal household household who who had had jurisdiction jurisdiction over all ail the the bakers bakers of of the the capital capital and and all ail the the officers officers of of the the pantry pantry (Royal (Royal

and and common). common). Under Under Louis Louis XIV his his function function consisted of 'placing 'placing the the King's King's knife knife and fork fork on ceremonial ceremonial occasions, occasions,

Arms Armsofthe of the Lord Pantler Pantler Lord

664 664 Fish:: sole solezeun meunière (Phol. Nicolas\ Nicolas) Fish iire (Phot.

PARMESAN PARMESAN taste the dishes set by esquire-trenchants, and and to assisted by to taste the dishes before the King.' before In England in the Middle Ages the pantler had to put the cellar and the knives knives on the table. salt cellar table. The pantler's pantler's office was amalgamated with with the office ofmaster of master dispenser of of the bread, bread, amalgamated Beauchamps of and was allowed as hereditary to the Beauchamps of Elmley, Earls of Warwick. afterwards Earls of Warwick. In France pantler had France the had under In the pantler under his his command ,command 24 gentlemen servants each quarter (with a token suret suretyy of 700 gentlemen pounds in in 1661). His coat of arms bore the insignia of his gold or silver receptac1e the nef receptacle in (a vessel-shaped gold office -- the nef(a which the King's salt cellar, cutlery, etc. were kept) and the cadenas. Paris-Brest ,,) (Maison Desmeuzes. Phal. to,o Larousse) ,*,uo, o,!,l,II!,|7io,.

PANURE -- French culinary term tenn for the coating of breadcrumbs adhering adhering to some substance either by by means crumbs to sorne means of substance either melted butter butter or beaten egg. melted slightly crusty after It should be a fine golden colour and slightly frying in deep fat or butter. frying

g. (9 oz., Prepare a fine sponge mixture mixture with 250 g. oz' generous Prepare (21 oz., 10 fl o ur, 65 g. (2t tablespoons) sieved sieved flour, cup) sugar, 65 g. (2t I 0 tablespoons) (cornstarch),77 egg yolks, 7 egg yolks, oz., oz., 10 l0 tablespoons) cornflour (cornstarch), vanilla or lemon stiffiy beaten egg whites, whites, a pinch of of salt, and vani1la stiffiy peel, using DOUGH, Fine Flne described under under DOUGH, peel, using the the method method described batter. sponge cake balter. Butter a round Butter round tin with a hole in the middle, sprinkle with with the cake fill up to three-quarters three-quarters with sugar and cornflour cornflour and fil1 mixture. Bake in a slow oyen minutes. mixture. oven for 40 minutes. of the tin and leave to cool on a wire tray Lift the cake out of I cm. (t or aa sieve. sieve. Cut into layers 1 @ inch) thick. Spread each layer with cream (see layer pastry cream with aa coating coating of of Frangipane Frangipane pastry reshaping the cake. Put a CREAMS) and sandwich sandwich together, reshaping piece ofthe sponge cake on the bottom bottom of the hollow hollow part and fill piece of ofsponge (q.v.) of crystallised fruit fruit bound the centre with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) jam. Co Cover with frangipane frangipane or very thick apricot jam. with ver with or very thick apricot another piece piece of of sponge cake. Coat the top and the sides with jam and diluted Italian meringue diluted apricot and coyer cover with with ltalian meringue (see apricot jam Pipe meringue MIXTURES, [talian mixture). Pipe MIXTURES, Italian meringue meringue mixture). Bake in in a with icing sugar. sugar. Bake decorations on top. Sprinkle on top. Sprinkle with slow oyen, make the meringue golden. Serve oven, to make Serve with kirschflavoured aapricot jam. pricot jam. g6teauu can also This gâtea several layers also be made by sandwiching sandwiching severallayers This ofsponge sprinkled of sponge cake, spread with frangipane cream and sprinkled gflteau is then covered covered with with diced crysta1lised crystallised fruit. fruit. The gâteau golden in the oyen. meringue and baked Italian meringue oven. baked golden

p,c.pA,yen - Tree found PAPAYA or PAWPAW. PAPAYER found extensively extensively PAPAYA in the R6union Archipelago, India, India, Cochin-China, Cochin-China, Réunion the Malay Archipelago, in Island, Tahiti, Senegal, Gabon, Guinea and Martinique. Its fruit is sweet and because of of its is sweet its enzyme fruit and easily easily digestible because content.

frills used for PAPILLOTE -- Term which applies to paper frills putting cutlets, veal cutlets, and veal putting on mutton, and end bones bones of lamb, lamb, mutton, on end cutlet-shaped croquettes, croquettes, etc. supr€mes of suprêmes of chicken, chicken, cutlet-shaped joints, principally principally chop chop end It is also used to describe small small joints, veal, which, after preliminary cooking, enclosed in a of veal, cooking, are enc10sed paper cut in the shape of of oiled white paper of a heart and put sheet ofoiled paper swells under the action of heat. oven, where the paper in the oyen, en papillotes.) (See VEAL, Veal Veal chops en It once described described sweets sweets wrapped in gold or silver paper. no longer in in vogue. are no These used to be be very popular but are They were pulled like crackers of paper crackers and there was a piece of They inside with with the inscription inscription of inside poem or motto. of a poem PAPRIKA -- Hungarian name name for for sweet sweet pepper. PAPRIKA pepper. Powder made from from this pepper slightly pungent pepper is red in colour, colour, has a slightly taste and is used as a condiment. It It is also used as seasoning goulasch, the Hungarian Hungarian national for goulasch, national dish. PARADISE NUTS. NUTS. MANIGUETTE, MAMGUETTE, GRAINE PARADISE DE PARADIS PARADIS -_ GRAINE DE condiment much used in former times. Aromatic and acrid condiment sometimes used to adulterate pepper. Nowadays, it is sometimes

(A LA) -- Name of PARISIENNE (À PARISIENNE of a garnish, the elements of include Potatoes la parwhich vary, vary, but but should should always always include which Potatoes àd la isienne (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). isienne garnish is served with This garnish with meat and poultry.

PARASOL MUSHROOM. COULEMELLE PARASOL Edible mushcoureuEI,r.E -- Edible mushThe best of room with a ring but without a volva. The of all, but the opinion of connoisseurs. most fragile, in the opinion of the connoisseurs.

and agroPARMENTIER (Antoine-Auguste) -- Economist and nomist, in 1817, 1817, who who wrote wrote nnumerous nomist, born umerous born in in 1737, 1737, died died in popularisation of works on whom we we owe works on food and to to whom owe the popularisation potatoes, France before potatoes, scorned as food in France before his time.

PARFAIT -- The an iced The term parfait once once applied only to an PARFAIT an ice cream. It It isis now now applied to an sweet based on on aa coffee cream. made of of a single flavour flavour mousse (bombe) mixture mixture set in plain moulds. (See ICE CREAMS AND ICES.) of variously On the menu one can describe light ices made ofvariously flavoured mixtures as parfaits.

preparing various dishes, Method of of preparing various dishes, PARMENTIER -- Method form or another. (See which always always include potatoes in one foon SOUPS AND BROTHS, Purde SOUPS Purée of of potato soup Parmentier; BEEF, Boiled Boi/ed beef beef sautéed sautded Parmentier, Miroton Parmentier; arme ntie r.) CHICKEN, Chicken Parmentier.) C hicken P

PARFAIT-AMOUR PARFAIT-AMOUR -- Liqueur Liqueur flavoured with grated citron citron liqueur. liqueur. called citron peel, coriander and cinnamon. Also called

potato. PARMENTIDnE -- Name sometimes PARMENTIÈRE sometimes given to potato.

(Caf6 de) PARIS (Café BYGONE PARIS de) -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE DAYS.

Parma region. See PARMESAI\ -- Italian cheese made in the Panna PARMESAN also CHEESE. pAILLETTES AU PARMESAN pARMEsAN - Give 10 l0 turns Parmesan straws. PAILLETTES to puff pastry. Work it on a table sprinkled sprinkled with very finely grated Parmesan; grated Parmesan; add a little cayenne pepper. paste, absorbed by the pas te, As soon as all the cheese has been absorbed (5 to 6 inches) into strips long. Cut inches) long. roll it out into strips 13 to to 15 15 cm. (5 (* inch) these into into small sticks i-* cm. crn. (i inch) wide. Put these on on a buttered baking tray very hot buttered tray and and cook cook in in aa very hot oyen. oven. Serve Serve piping piping hot.

(Pitisserie) -- Name of aa Paris Paris speciality, a PARIS-BREST (Pâtisserie) pastry forcing bag bag in the forced through pastry made of through a forcing of chou chou paste, forced grated or chopped form of chopped almonds. almonds. form of a crown, sprinkled sprinkled with grated filled with Praline After baking, the pastry is slit open and filled creams). butter cream (see CREAMS, Butter creams).

PARISIEN GÂTEAU be cal1ed called PARISIEN used to to be GATEAU -- This This gâteau edteau used

polonais. polonais.

665 665

Joints ofham (Fauchon. Phot. Nicolas)

(A LA) PARMESANE (À LA) PARMESANE prepared in Cheshire and and Gruyère Gruydre cheese cheese straws straws are are prepared in the the Cheshire Parmesan straws. way as same way as Parmesan In France straws. In France Parmesan Parmesan straws straws same are also also called called Paillelles Paillettes dorées. doreles, Cheese Cheese straws straws are are often often are garnish for served as as aa garnish for clear clear soups. soups. served

Red-legged partridge partridge isisbigger bigger than thanthe thecommon commonspecies; species;itit Red-Iegged brownish, slightly grey breast, slightly darker darker on on the with aagrey breast, theback, back, with isis brownish, red below, below,and pure white andwith with aapure whiteneck neckand and red redbill billand legs.ItIt andlegs. red found mainly mainlv inin the theSouth South of ofFrance. France. isis found

(A LA) PARMESANE (À great many LA) -- Term Term applied applied to to aa great many PARMESANE preparations which which invariably invariably include include Parmesan Parmesan cheese, cheese, preparations grated. usually grated. usually PARR. TOCAN young salmon, TocAN -- Name Name for for very very young salmon, less less than than one one PARR. year old. old. year pERRoeuEr DE PARROT FISH. FISH. PERROQUET DE MER MER -- One One of of the the numerous numerous PARROT species of ofcoral fish. species coral fish. pERsrL - Hardy PARSLEY. PERSIL plant used biennial plant flavourused as as aa fiavourPARSLEY. - Hardy biennial ing in in cookery. cookery. ing There are parsley: common varieties of four edible parsley, are four edible varieties of parsley: common parsley, There curly-leaved parsley. parsley, Neapolitan parsley and Neapolitan or or celery-Ieaved celery-leaved parsley and curly-Ieaved parsley, the or turnip-rooted turnip-rooted parsley, the fieshy fleshy roots roots of of which which Hamburg or are eaten eaten Iike like celeriac. celeriac. are used in in several several forms: forms: in in sprigs, sprigs, mixed mixed In cookery parsley isis used plants, especially with other other aromatic aromatic plants, especially thyme thyme and and bay leaf (see bay leaf(see with BOUQUET GARNI); GARNI); chopped chopped or or rough-chopped, rough-chopped, in in which which BOUQUET case it is is added to to the dish dish at at the the end end of cooking; sometimes of cooking; sometimes case sprinkled on the dish pluches, i.e. picked dish ready for for serving; serving; en i.e. picked en pluches, sprinkled offleaf by leaf, blanched in salted blanched in salted boiling boiling water, water, drained drained and and offleafby quickly in dishes at at the end of cooking, cooking, or or fried fried quickly in end of added to the dishes butter and poured over and poured over dishes dishes served served with with browned browned butter; butter; butter and fried in deep fat until crisp and garnish for and used as as aa garnish for fried fried dishes. dishes. parsley, picked picked over Fresh parsley, and washed, over and is also also used used for for washed, is Fresh are used as as aa condiment. condiment. garnishing cold dishes. Parsley roots are Chopped parsley. Pick over, wash and dry the parsley. Put Put and dry in a tight bunch; cut quickly as first, then cut it first, then chop together in as quickly as chop as possible, or with aa multiple-blade multiple-blade possible, either with aa kitchen knife or chopping knife. When parsley is not to be used immediately after When after chopping, chopping, to keep it fresh for several several hours, hours, tie tie it in in aa corner corner of ofaa cloth cloth running tap. and leave it under aa running tap. Dry it weil well by by twisting the cloth. Pour into a small receptacle. Fried parsley. parsley. Wash the parsley weil, well, dry itit and and pick off in in pan of little sprigs. Put it in in a wire basket, and plunge into aa pan of sizzlingfat. sizzling fat. Keep in the fat for a few moments; dry on on aa cloth. Parsley en pluches. Wash the parsley pick off leaf by parsley and and pick leaf, leaf, then blanch or fry, as required. Rough-chopped parsley. Pick Pick over and wash the parsley and and chop chop it coarsely. coarsely.

partridge Rock partridge Rock

PARSNIP, pANArs PANAIS

-- Root Root used used as as condiment, particularly for for flavouring fiavouring stocks. It can also be served as a vegetable. Parsnips Parsnips are prepared prepared in any way suitable suitable for carrots (q.v.) and and kohlrabi (q.v.).

pERDRrx - Name covering several PARTRIDGE. PARTRIDGE. pnnons.au, PERDREAU, PERDRIX genera of of the game bird family Phasianidae, Phasianidae, aU all of which are

edible. edible. The partridge partridge is rather rather indigestible in digestible and can become toxic if The if hung. Sufferers Sufferers from from hepatitis, rheumatism, gout hung. gout and and dyspepsia are advised advised not not to eat it. pepsia are name 'partridge' applies to both sexes of adult birds The name after the the hunting hunting season season opens. As the saying es : after goes: saying go 'On the the feast feast day day of of Saint R6mi Rémi (lst. October) 'On Ail partridges partridges have the the same same gender.' gender.' All Partridges were introduced into into France in in the the fifteenth Partridges century by by Ren6, René, King King of of Naples, who brought brought several pairs century of Scio for breeding breeding in Provence. Provence. from the the island island of from principal species species found in France is is the common or The principal grey grey partridge, partridge, brownish brownish grey grey in colour, col our, speckled with white the back, back, ash coloured on on the the breast. The male has has aa on the brown spot. spot. brown

!

666 666

partridge and The rock The rock partridge partridge or and the snow partridge the snow or lagopus lagopusare are also found in in France. also found France. The The American partridge can Americqn partridge can now now be be obtained obtained frozen frozen inin France. France. Ballottine partridge with Ballottine of garnishes. BALLOTTINE of partridge with various various garnishes. BALLoTTTNE DE DE PERDREAU partridge and eERDREAU -- Bone Bone the the partridge gras, and stuff stuff with with foie foie gras, game forcemeat, truffies truffies and and game forcemeat, as as described in the described in the recipe recipe for for (see PHEASANT). Ballottine Ballottine ofpheasant of pheasant (see PHEASANT). Wrap Wrap in piece of in aa piece of muslin muslin and and tie tie with with string. string. Cook Cook for for 45 45 minutes minutes in in aa little little Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured braising braising liquor, liquor, made made from from the the bones bones and pared off and scraps scraps pared partridge, aa off the the partridge, veal knuckle and and the aromatic vegetables. the usual usual aromatic vegetables. Drain Drain the the ballottine, ballottine, unwrap glaze in unwrap and and glaze in the the oyen. oven. Arrange Arrange on on aa serving serving dish dish and garnish and surround surround with with the the garnish recommended. recommended. Boil Boil down down the braising braising liquor, pour liquor, strain strain and and pour over over the ballottine. ballottine. Ballottines Ballottines of partridges can of partridges can be be served served with with ail all the the garnishes recommended garnishes recommended for for roasted roasted or pheasant, or braised braised pheasant, woodcock and game. and other other winged winged game. penoRElu ÀA Jellied Jellied ballottine of partridge. BALLOTTINE of partridge. BALLoTTTNE DE on PERDREAU LA r,c. GELÉE cnrfn -- Prepare partridge. Cook Prepare like like Ballottine Ballottine of of partridge. Cook the the ballottine jelly. ballottine in in Madeira-fiavoured Madeira-flavoured liquid game jelly. liquid game When cooked, cooked, drain drain and press. Arrange and cool cool under under aa Iight light press. Arrange in aa terrine jelly in tenine or glass dish. (see dish. Clarify Clarify the the jelly in the the usual usual way way (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Clarification jelly) and Clarification of pour over of aspic aspic jelly) and pour over the the ballottine. ballottine. pERDRrx AUX Partridges Parhidges with cabbage. cabbage. PERDRIX AUx CHOUX cHoux -- Cook Cook half half aa lean bacon, big cabbage, 1I piece of oflean bacon, 1I uncooked uncooked sausage, sausage, 22 big big carrots and the usual aromatics in usual aromatics in aa casserole. casserole. Lard Lard the partridges and the breasts breasts of put them of 22 partridges and put them in in the the casserole. After After about about 30 30 minutes, minutes, remove remove the the bacon bacon and and sausage sausage and continue cooking cooking the the partridges and and cabbage for cabbage for further 1llhours. t hours. aafurther Arrange the partridges on on the the cabbage cabbage in in aa deep deep dish dish or or timbale. timbale. Garnish Garnish with with rectangles rectangles of of the the bacon, bacon, and and the the sausage sausage and carrots carrots cut cut in slices. slices. Baste with aa few few tablespoons Baste with tablespoons of good stock. ofgood stock. The The partridges can can also also be be served served in in aa buttered buttered, timbale timbale lined with the pieces pieces of of bacon bacon and and sliced carrot and and sausage, sliced carrot sausage, garnished with aa layer garnished layer of partridges on of cabbage. cabbage. Put Put the the partridges on top, top, the cabbage, coyer with with the the rest rest of cover ofthe cabbage, and in the the oyen for 55 and heat heat in oven for minutes.

PARTRIDGE PARTRJDGE Turn out the the timbale onto a dish dish and and pour pour over a a few tablespoons of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) based based on a gamefumet gamefumet (q.v.), (q,v,), or or brown brown veal veal stock. stock, The The same same method method of of preparation can can be be applied applied to to pheasant, pheasant, hazel hazel grouse grouse or or guinea guinea fowl. Casserole ofpartridge of partridge (or partridge partridge en cocotte). cocotte). PERDREAU PERDREAU EN EN cAssERoLE, CASSEROLE, EN EN cocorrE COCOTTE - Prepare Prepare like like Casserole of of pheasant pheasant (see PHEASANT) PHEASANT) making making allowances allowances for cookcooking ing time according aceording to the size of of the partridge. partridge, Partridge Partridge ià la catalane, en pistache pistache (Languedoc (Languedoc cookery). rERDREAU PERDREAU A À rA LA CATALANE, PISTACHE - Stuff Stufr the partridge partridge c,c,rlLANE, EN prsrAcrrE with witb a a forcemeat made of its chopped cbopped liver, freshly grated breadcrumbs, chopped lean ham, parsley and garlic, bound bound with an egg. egg, Truss the bird, bard it, season, and put put in in an earthenware casserole in which which 3 tablespoons (scant (seant i~ cup) butter butter or or goose goose fat fat has has been been heated. heated, When When the the partridge partridge acquires acquires a golden golden colour, colour, remove remove it from from the casserole. casserole, Put IJ casserole. Sprinkle Sprinkle large tablespoon diced diced raw ham into the casserole, with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour and cook for aa few scant I cup) dry moments. moments, Moisten Moisten with with·iI dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant;\: scant 1white wine and I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant cup) stock. stock, Add I1 *cup) bouquet garni of tablespoon tomato pur6e, purée, a bouquel of parsley, thyme, Cook for bay small piece of orange bay leaf leaf and and a a small piece of orange peel. peel. Cook for 10 minutes. minutes, Remove Remove the ham and the bouquet garni and strain the sauce, sauce. Return the partridge to the casserole, add the ham partridge 10 garni, and bouquet garni. and pour in the sauce, sauce. Bring and bouquel Bring to the boil, of garlic, l0 minutes. cover, and simmer for minutes, Add Add 12 cloves of for 10 previously cooking previously boiled in salted water water and drained. drained, Finish cooking gently, for together, simmering gently, 35 minutes. together, simmering for 35 minutes, Remove the casserole. bouquet garni and and serve the partridge bouquel partridge in the t he casserole, In ln western Languedoc this sauce is usually thickened with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. Stuff Partridge in chambertin. IERDREAU AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTTN -- StuIT chambertin. PERDREAU in the the as described described in and prepare as the partridge, partridge, and the recipe recipe for for (see WOODCOCK). chambertrn (sec Woodcock au chamberlin WOODCOCK), prnonrlu A Partridge ur CHAMPENOISEcHAMIENoISE Partr!dge i'lla À LA i la champenoise. PERDREAU gras eut seasoned dice, seasoned Stuffthe withfoie gras cl'tt in StufT the partridge partridge withfoie in large dice, as for for an Truss as and sprinkled sprinkled with and brandy, Truss with 1I tablespoon brandy. entrie and pot raast roast in butter. When entrée When three-quarters done, add together. Drain cooking together. 8 peeled peeled mushroom caps and finish cooking partridge, untruss, and fried in in croffton fricd the partridge, and arrange arrange on on aa croûton the gameforcemect (see A gratin gameforcemeat butter and spread with a layer of A juices FORCEMEATS or Dilute the the pan or STUFFINGS), STUFFINGS). DiJute FORCEMEATS pan juices (scant tI pint, gencrous generous cup) champagne, some champagne, add sorne with2! with 21- dl. (seant in sorne cream, simmer until the some the sauce sauce thickens, blend in fresh cream, (scant ;\:i cup) fresh butter, strain, fresh truffies strain, add add 33 tabJespoons tablespoons (seant butter, julienne (q,v.) (q.v.) and in lightly tossed tossed in shredded into. into aa fine fine julienne and lightly shredded partridge. butter, and pour over the partridge, DE PERDRJX eERDRIx -- Pluck, cHARTREUsE DE Chartreuse of partridge. CHARTREUSE Chartreuse partridges. Truss lard the the breast draw and and singe singe 22 partridges, Truss them them and lard draw Brush them them with with butter, with thin thin lardoons lardoons of of bacon bacon fat. fat. Brush with for 77 or or 8 season, and in aa hot hot oyen oven for and brown brown on on ail all sides sides in season, minutes. minutes. on the the and onions onions on Put sorne some bacon rinds and sliced sliced carrots and Put bottom of Add aa layer of of blanched, blanched, wellof aa deep deep casserole, casserole. Add bottom drained and and seasoned seasoned cabbage, cabbage. drained (7 oz.) lean g. (7 200 g, the cabbage. Add 200 Place the partridges on on thecabbage, medium-sized scalded bacon, bacon, 1I small uncooked sausage, sausage, 1I medium-sized scalded small uncooked quarters, 1 onion clove, and and aa carrot cut into quarters, onion studded studded with aa clove, cut into carrot (q.v.). garnt (q. ingredients with another another layer bouquet garni Cover the ingredients bouquet v,), Coyer juices diluted with 88 dl. dl. of cabbage with the pan juices diluted with cabbage and and moisten moisten with of (scant lipints, seant lf pints, scant 22 pints) stock, stock. (seant in the oven oven and and cook cook the stove, stove, then put in to the the boil on on the Bring to how with aa lid lid on hours to hours, depending depending on on how on from from li l| hours to 22 hours, with Before the tender the the birds cooking is is complete, complete, remove tender birds are, are. Before the cooking to avoid avoid their being being overcooked, overcooked. and sausage, sausage, to the bacon and (or Preparation of of the the chartreuse, chartreuse. Char/reuse Chartreuse of of partridge (or Preparation game) is partridge with any other other game) is aa variation variation of with eabbage, cabbage, any of partridge

differing differing mainly mainly in in its its more more decorative decorative and and elaborate elaborate arrangearrangement, ment, which which requires requires great great attention attention to to detail. In ln addition addition to to the the lean lean bacon bacon and sausage sausage cooked cooked with with the the cabbage, cabbage, add add the the following following ingredients, ingredienlS, which should be prepared prepared separately separately while while the the partridges partridges are are cooking: eooking: 2 young young turnips, turnips, cut eut with with aa small small vegetable tube into into sticks sticks 3| 31- cm. cm, (lf (Ii inches) inches) long, long, cooked in stock, 33 carrots, carroIS, cut eut and cooked in in a similar similar way, way. 150 150 g. (5 (5 oz., oz" generous generous Ii cup) French beans cooked in in salted water, water, drained drained and and dressed with with butter, butter, 5 tablespoons tablespoons (6 (6 tablespoons) fresh garden garden peas, cooked in in salted water water and and well weil drained, drained, and and 75 75 g. g, (3 (3 oz., oz" 6 6 tablespoons\ tablespoons) Quenelle 11(see forcemealll (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS), forcemeat Remove Remove the partridge, partridge, untruss untruss and cut eut into into quarters. quarters, Drain Drain the the cabbage. Remove Remove the the vegetables vegetables., bouquet bouquet garn garnii and bacon bacon rinds and keep all ail these these ingredients hot. Butter aa big charlotte mould mould and and decorate decorate it it with with little little separated turnip carrot sticks, placing turnip and and carrot placing them them in in rows, rows, separated from each other by a row of ofpeas. f rom each peas, Cover Coyer these these vegetables vegetables with with aa thin thin layer layer of of Quenelle (see FORCEMEATS II (see FORCEMEATS or or STUFFINGS), STUFFINGS), to to forcemeat .I1 forcemeat solidify solidify the the vegetable vegetable garnish. garnish, Line Line the the mould mould with with wellwelldrained and pressed-out pressed-out cabbage. of partridge, Place the pieces pieces of partridge, and the lean bacon bacon trimmed trimmed Cover with cabbage. Coyer and eut cut into smaJ! small rectangles, rectangles, on the cabbage, with the the of rest of cabbage. Cover the whole with of the pressed pressed cabbage, with a layer of forcemeat forcemeat and smooth the forcemeat forcemeat evenly. evenly, Put the filled mould Put the filled mou Id into into a a pan pan half-filled half-filled with with boiling boiling Let the 40 minutes. about 40 water. Cook Cook in slow oyen oven for water, in aa slow for about minutes, Let the Garnish out. Garnish chartreuse stand for 5 minutes before charlreuse before turning turning it it out. in aa arranged in slices and arranged the top with a skinned sausage, skinned sa usage, cut in slices circle. EN cHARTREUSE ernonnAu EN Chartreuse of ofpartridge Chartreuse partridge poult. poult. PERDREAU CHARTREUSEjointed and arranged arranged in Young partridges, which are roasted, Young roasted,jointed in of braised or aa timbale, timbale, on on aa foundation mould or foundation of braised cabbage, aa mould flavour. See See them more with old old partridges cooked with partridges to to give give them more flavour. partridge above, above. Chartreuse of of parlridge partridge. CHAUD-FROID PERDREAU -cHAUD-FRoID DE of partridge. Chaud-froid of DE PERDREAU joint. Skin Skin cool and joint. Roast the partridge partridge in the oven, allow to cool chaud-froid sauce them. Coyer Cover with Brown trim them, the pieces and tdm Brown chaud-froid (see SA stock (see SAUCE). based on concentrated game stock based 00 UCE), Decorate pickled whites and and pickled egg whites with pieces of truffie, with pieces of truffie, hard-boiled hard-boiled egg jelly. tongue, and glaze with jelly, tongue, jelly. Coyer Cover well-set jelly, foundation of of weil-set in aa dish dish on aa foundation Arrange in jelly flavoured with or completely with semi-liquid jelly completely with Madeira Madeira or well on ice, ice. Chill weil wine. Chili other liqueur wine, on aa partridge can be served served on The chaut/-froid can al:;o also be chaud-froid of of partridge The of Chaud-froid of cro0ton, as as described in the recipe for Chaud-froid buttered croûton, jelly. (see CHICKEN), garnished with chopped chopped jelly, CHICKEN), and garnished chicken (sec Truss A LA rl CHJPOLATA Parhidge ài la chipolata. PERDREAU IERDREAU À cnrpoutl -- Truss Partridge it casserole. Wh When cook in aa casserole, anentrtie the partridge as for an entrée and cook en it Add in the the casserole, casserole. Add is nearly cooked, untruss and replace in untruss and is gently. garrus& (see GARNISHES) simmer gently, GARNISHES) and simmer Chiplata garnish Chiplata placed on partridge can on aa can also be be placed After being the partridge being cooked cooked the After with chipolata chipolata surrounded with and surrounded croffton fried fried in in butter, butter, and croûton pan juices with Madeira and and concentrated concentrated Dilute the panjuices with Madeira garnish. Dilute game stock partridge. stock and and pour over over the partridge, game prRons,c,u À A LA rA. CRAPAUDINE cRAPAUDINE -la crapaudine. PERDREAU Partridge ài la (see PIG PIGEON). as Pif'eon Pigeon àd la la crapaudine uapaudine (see Prepare as EON), (q.v.) game./umet (q,v,) to which which sorne some gamefumel Serve with with Diable sauce sauce to Serve (see SAUCE), SAUCE). has been added, or sauce (see or with with Périgueux Pdrigueux sauce has Prepare as as Partridge ài la A LA u CRÈME cnilvrn -- Prepare la crème. crime. PERDREAU rERDREAU À (see PHEASANT), making PHEASANT), making with cream ueam (sec Pheasant en en cocolle cocotte lVilh Pheasant of bird, bird. depending on on size size of for cooking cooking time, time, depending allowances for allowances partridge Brillat-Savarin. EN Cr6pinette of Brillat-Savarin. PERDREAU IERDREAU EN of partridge \...., Crépinette partridge along the along the cnfplNe BRILLAT-SAVARIN BRILLAT-SAVARTN -- Split Split the the partridge CRÉPINE grilled chicken, bones. small bones, back, as as for for grilled Remove ail all the the smalt chicken. Remove back, Fry the Flatten slightly with salt salt and and spices, spices. Fry slightly and and season season with Flatten partridge quickly quickly in flesh. in butter to stiifen stiffen the the flesh, butter to partridge 667 667

PARTRIDGE PARTRIDGE Coat on on both both sides gras forcemeat sides with with foie (see forcemeat (see foie gras Coat FORCEMEATS, Forcem~a/for pAti de Forcemeatfor pâté gras) mÎxed defoie mixed with with FORCEMEATS, foie gras) truffies, and and wrap piece of wrap in in aa piece pig's caul of pig's poundedfat pork. caul or or pounded fat pork. trufftes, Arrange on on aa foundation foundation of purde (see (see PURÉE). of Lentil Inntil purée PUREE). Arrange Simmer aa few few tablespoons gamefumer (q. (q.v.) tablespoons of of gamefumet with Madeira, Madeira, SÎmmer v.) with strain, add add aa little little butter pour around butter and and pour around the the dish. dish. strain, Cr6pinette of partridge ài lala périgourdine. of partridge perigourdine. PERDREA rERDREAU EN Crépinette U EN pfuicouRDrNE Truss the partridge as for an cnfplNs A LA ra PÉRIG()URDINE CRÉPINE À -- Truss the partridge as for an entrde, slit slit open open the the baek back and and remove remove the the small small bones, leaving bones, leaving en/rée, only the drumsticks drumsticks and and the the bones pinions. Flatten bones of of the the pinions. Flatten the the on Iy the partridge slightly, slightly, season season with with salt pepper, and salt and and pepper, and fry fry itit partridge quickly in in butter butter to to stiITen flesh. stiffen the the flesh. quiekly Put the the bird bird on layer of on aa layer pork forcemeat (see of Fine Fine park forcemeat (see Put FORCEMEATS), mixed mixed wilh (q.v.) of with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) gras of foie FORCEMEATS), foie gras and truffles, truffies, and and enlivened enlivened with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon flaming flaming brandy. brandy. and Spread on piece of on aa piece pig's caul of pig's caul or pounded pork or pounded pork fat fat big big Spread enough to to enclose partridge and enclose the the parlridge and forcemeat. forcemeat. Put Put aa layer layer of of enough forcemeat over partridge and over the the partridge and cover cover itit weil. well. Wrap Wrap the the forcemeat whole in piece of in the pig's cau\. the piece of pig's caul. whole Brush with with melted melted butter, butter, dip dip in ground breadin freshly freshly ground breadBrush crumbs and grill until and cook cook on on aa low low grill until both golden. both sides sides are are golden. crumbs Arrange in in aa dish, dish, and surround with and surround with aaragoAt of truffles truffies and and Arrange ragoût of mushrooms in in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-fl avoured gamefume/ game fume t (q.v.). (q. v. ). mushrooms parhidge eo Jellied partridge en daube. daube. PERDREAU rERDREAU EN EN DAUBE o,c,unr À A LA rn GELÉEcrrfs Jellied See PHEASANT, PHEASANT, Daube of pheasant injel!..,,·, in jelly. See Daube ofpheasant Estoufiade of parhidge. PERDREAU of partridge. IERDREAU EN EN ESTOUFFADE BsrouFFADn -- Truss Truss Estouffade partridge as the partridge as for for an an entree, entrie, season season il, it, brush brush with with butter butter and and the roast until golden in until golden in the the oven. oven. Put Put into into an an oval-shaped oval-shaped roast earthenware cocoLle (q.v.), on cocotte (q.v.), on aa fOllndation foundation of of aa mirepoix mirepoix earthenware (q.v.) of of vegetables, vegetables, weil well softened softened in in butter. butter. Cover Cover the the (q.v.) partridge with with aa layer layer of of the the same same mirepoix. mirepoix. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with partridge melted butter and and add (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 add 2 flaming me[ted butter 2 tablespoons tablespoons) flaming brandy. Put the the lid on and and seal seal it with ftour-and-water paste. flour-and-water paste. brandy. Put lid on it with Cook hot aven oven for for 25 30 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in inthe cocotte. Cook in in aa hot 25 to to 30 the cocOlle. Estoufrade partridge ali la of partridge c6venole. pER.DREAU la cévenole. EN Estouffade of PERDREAU EN ESToTJFFADE i rl cfvsNorn - Stuff the partridge with Fine ESTOUFFADE À LA CÉVENOLE - Stuff the partridge wÎth Fine pork with one-th.Îrd one-third park forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed mixed with of of aa forcemeat FORCEMEATS) I1 of its its weight weight of forcemeat dà gratin gratin (see (sec FORCEMEATS) tablespoon Truss as as for Season tablespoon chopped chopped truffies. trufHes. Truss for an an entrde. entrée. Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and brown brown quickly qUÎckly in În butter, butter, to to stiffen stiffen it. il. tlntruss, Untruss, put put into into an an earthenware earthenware casserole, casserole, surround surround with with aa garnish of 12 chestnuts garnish of 12 chesl nuls three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked in in conconcentrated centrated veal veal stock, stock, 6 6 mushrooms mushrooms tossed tossed in in butter butter and and 66 scalded scalded lardoons lardoons (q.v.) (q.v.) of of breast breast of of pork, pork, fried fried in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespooos) concentrated concentrated game stock or concentrated brown game stock or concentrated brown veal veal stock stock flavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Sprinkle Sprink[e with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon flaming flaming brandy. brandy. Put Put the the lid the casserole and seal lid on 00 the casserole and seal it it with with flour-and-water flour-and-water paste. paste. Cook Cook in in a a hot hot oven oven from from 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in the the casserole. casserole. penonrn Parhidge u .i,À LA Partridge ià la la financiire. financière. PERDREAU LA FrNANcrtne I-lNANGIÈRE -- Cook Cook the the partridge partridge in in butter butter in in an an earthenware earthenware cocotte. cocolle. When When itit is is nearly nearly cooked, cooked, untruss untruss itit and and put put itit back back in in the the cocotte coco Ile and and garnish garnish d à la la financidre financière (see (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) bound bound with with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* Hcup) cup) Madeira-flavoured Madeira-tlavoured game game stock. stock. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in aa slow slow oven. oven. Serve Serve in in the the same sa me cocotte. coco Ile. Instead Inslead ofcooking of cooking and and serving serving the lhe partridge partridgc in in aa cocotte,it cocOlle, it can can be be pot-roasted pot-roasted in in butter, butter, placed placed on on aa cro0ton crOûton fried fried in in butter butter and and spread spread with with an an dà gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat (q.v.), (q.v.), and and surrounded surrounded with with the the various various elements elements of of ftnancidre financière garnish garnish disposed disposed in in separate separate groups. groups. Parhidge Partridge ià la la forestiire. forestière. rERDREAU PERDREAU AÀra LA ronssrrilRE FORFSTlÈRE -- Stuff StuIT the the partridge partridge with with forcemeat forcemeat dà gratin gratin (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Truss Truss itit as as for for an an entrie en/rée and and fry fry itit in in butter, butter, to to stiffen stiITen it. it. Take Take out out ofthe of the casserole casserole and and put put I1 teaspoon teaspoon ofchopped of chopped shallot shallot into into the thecasserole. casserole. Replace Replace the the partridge partridge and and surround surround itit with with 150 150g. g. (5 (5 oz.) oz.) sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, 12lean 12 [ean lardoons lardoans scalded scalded and and tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and 44 to to 66 tablespoons tablespoons (| to to It cup) cup) diced diced

potato, tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking together together in in the the oven oven potato, with aa lid lid on. on. with When the partridge isis cooked, the partridge cooked, untruss untruss it, it, baste baste wîth with 33 When (scantlcup)of tablespoons (seant gamefumet (q. (q.v.)and in the serve in the tablcspoons icup) of gamefumet v.) and serve casserole. casserole. Galantine ofpartridge. of partridge. GALANTINE cALANTTNE DE DE PERDREAU IERDREAuBone the the Galantine - Bone partridge and prepare as and prepare as described described in recipe for in the the recipe for Balloltine Ballottine partridge pheasant (see (see PHEASANT). of pheasan/ PHEASANT). of pnnonBlu GRILLÊ GrilledpartridgeAladiable. cnrrrf ÀA LA rA DIABLEDTABLEGrilled partridge à la diable. PERDREAU partridge down Split the the parlridge down th th the the back, back, open open itit out out and and flatten flatten Split slightly. Brush Brush with with melted melted butter, butter, season season with with salt salt and and slight[y. pepper, and and cook cook under gill,44 minutes under aa moderate moderate grill, side. minutes each each side. pepper, Brush with with melted melted butter butter and grated breadand dip dip in in freshly freshly grated breadBrush crumbs. crumbs. Put the partridge back the partridge grill and back under grilling under the finish grilling the grill and finish Put gently, basting basting frequently frequently with with melted melted butter. butter. gently, To serve, serve, deeoratc decorate with with watercress watercress and quarter at lemon quarter and aa lemon at To each end. end. GarnÎsh Garnish the the edges edges of of the the dish dish with with fluted-edged fluted-edged eaeh half-slices of lemon, and of lemon, gherkins. Serve and Ihin thin sliees slices of of gherkins. Serve with with half-slices (see SA Diable sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). Diable UCE). Grilled partridges partridges can can also also be be served served with with Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel Grilled (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) butters)., bUller prnpnrlu ÀA LA Partridge ài la mirepoix. mirepgix. PERDR~AU LA MIREPOIX MrREporx -- Stuffthe Stuffthe Partridge partridge with with A A gratin gratin game game forcemeat partridge forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS), mixed mixed wilh with diced truffles. truffies. Truss it as as for an an FORCEMEATS), quickly in butter entrele. Fry Fry quickly butter to stiffen stiffen il. it. Remove trussing trussing and and entrée. with aafine (q.v.) ofvegetables, mireporx (q.v.) of vegetables, gently cooked cooked cover with fine mirepoix in butter butter and mixed with with a liule little Madeira. Wrap the partridgc partridge in piece of in aa piece pig's caul of pig's pork fat. caul or or pork Cook itit in in very fat. Cook very litt little in le Madeira-fl avoured braising stock. Madeira-flavoured Drain the and arrange arrange on on aa croûton cro0ton Drain the partridge, partridge, unwrap and fried in in butter, spread with and browned frÎed butter, spread with more more forcemeat and grill. Add under Add 33 tablespoons (scant *t cup) Madeira and tablespoons (seant I and 1 under a grill. tablespoon tablespoon flaming flaming brandy to the braising liquor; liquor; boil down, strain, strain, and pour pour over the partridge. partridge. Partridge A rl Portridge ià la la moldave moldave (Moldavian (Moldavian style). pnnonEau PERDREAU À LA MoLDAVE Split open the partridge, season, dip in MOLDAVE - Split partridge, flatten it, it, season, egg with a egg and and black black breadcrumbs mixed mixed with a little [ittle powdered coriander. Saut6 sides are coriander. Sauté in clarified clarified butter butter until both sides are golden. golden. Arrange Arrange on aa cake cake made of of baked baked potato potato pulp pul p mixed mixed with with a brunoise brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) of of carrot, carrot, celery and and mushrooms. Bind this mixture mixture with with yolks yolks of of egg, shape it it into Înto a a pancake, dredge dredge with with flour flour and and fry fry in in butter. bulter. Pour Pour a a ring ring of of concentrated concenlrated veal vcal stock around around the partpartridge. ridge. Squeeze Squeeze a a few few drops of of lemon juice juice on the bird and sprinkle sprinkle with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon Noisette Noiselle butter buller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Parhidge Partridge Monselet. Monselet. IBRDREAU PERDREAU MoNsELET MONSELET -- Stuff Stuff the partpartridge ridge with with foie foie gras gras and and truffies trufflcs cut eut in in large large dice. dice. Truss it, it, season, season, and and cook cook in in butter butter in in an earthenware earthenware cocotte. When When half-cooked, half-cooked, add 2 2 artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, sliced sliced and tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and I1medium-sized medium-sized truffie, trufHe, cut eut in in thick Ihick slices. slices. Moisten Moisten with game fumet with 33 tablespoons tab1espoons (scant (scant * cup) cup) game fumet (q.v.) (q.v.) and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon flaming flaming brandy. brandy. Cover Cover the the cocotte cocotte and and leave leave in in the the oven oven for for 33 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in the the cocotte. cocotte. Parhidge Partridge mousses mousses and and mousselines. mousselines. uoussEs, MOUSSES, MoussELrNEs MOUSSELINES DE DE rERDREAU PERDREAU -- Using Using boned boned partridge partridge prepare prepare llke like Cold Cold quail quail mousse mOlLtse (see (see QUAIL). QUAIL). Partridge Partridgeià la la normande. normande. rERDREAU 1;lERDREAU AÀ rll, LA r*onM.,tNoe NORMANDE -- Truss Truss the the partridge partridge as as for for an an entrde entrée and and brown brown itit in in butter. bUller. Put Put into into an an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole on on aa foundation foundation of of peeled, peeled, sliced sliced cooking cooking apples, apples, tossed tossed in În butter. butter. Surround Surrollnd the the partridge partridge with with similar similar slices. slices. Moisten Moisten with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook in in aa hot hot oven oven under under aa lid. lido Serve Serve in in the the casserole. casserole, Cold Coldpartridge partridgepflt6. pâté. pArf PÂTÉrnon FROID oE DEIERDREAU PERDREAU-- Prepare Prepare like like Pheasant Pheasantphti pâté(see (sec PHEASANT). PHEASANT). Hot Hot partridge partridge pfft6. pâté. pArf PÂTÉ cneun CHAUD DE DE eERDREAU PERDREAU -- Using Using

±

Ct

668 668

PASHKA PASHKA and leave leave until cold. Then cover coyer completely completely with the jelly, clarified c1arified in the usual manner manner (see (see ASPIC, Clarification of

gratin, foie foie gras and truffles, truffles, boned partridges, forcemeat dà gratin, prepare like Hot woodcock woodcock pdtd pâté (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). Plirtri.tt,,, iil la la P6rigueux. Périgueux. rERDREAU PERDREAU A À rl LA pErucusux PÉRIGUEUX -- Stuff Partridge n"rtr1lir,,· with with truffies truffies as as described described below below in the the recipe recipe for the partridge partridge (roast). (roast). Cook Cook it it gently in butter in an Truffied pqrtridge eal"th,cll1Nalre casserole. When three-quarters cooked, add 20 earthenware slices of of truffles, seasoned seasoned with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and a pinch thick slices of spices. spices. Sprinkle with with l| li dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, J ~ cup) cup) MadeiraMadeiraflavoured and I1 tablespoons flaming flaming flavoured game fumel (q.v.) (q.v.) and brandy. Serve Serve in the casserole. casserole. brandy. Roast partridge. IERDREAU PERDREAU n6rI RÔTICoyer the partridge ",,·.. tri';c,.. with Roast - Cover a vine leaf, then with a thin rasher of bacon enclosing the breast completely, and and tie tie with string. breast Roast the bird in the oven oyen (see (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Roast Average cooking cooking time time for for roaSlS). Average roasts). Untruss, arrange arrange the partridge partridge on aa crofiton croûton ofbread of bread fried IJntruss, in butter or in the fat collected in the dripping pan, spread with with a a layer layer of of A À gratin gratin game game forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) and brown brown lightly lightly on top. Garnish with watercress watercress and half a lemon. Serve Serve with the Garnish pan pan juices juices left from from cooking coo king the bird. bird. Salmis of partridge. sALMrs SALMIS DE DE rERDREAU PERDREAU - Using roast partridge, underdone undelrdcme and and cut cut into into joints, prepare prepare as Salmis of wo/)dc,')ck (see (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). woodcock Parhidge Partridge saut6ed sautéed with with trufles. truIDes. IERDREAU PERDREAU s.Lurf SAUTÉ eux AUX TRUFFES cut up into into joints, as TRUFFES -- Choose Choose a plump partridge and cut in the case of Sautied chicken (see CHICKEN). Season Season with salt and pepper and sauté in butter. butter. Remove the salt and saut6 briskly in joints, and arrange Jomts, them on a croffton, croûton, fried in butter, butter, spread arrange them with aa forcemeat gratin (see (see FORCEMEATS) with forcemeat àd gratin FORCEMEATS) and browned on top. quickly in butter Toss l2 12 thick slices of butter and season season of truffies quickly pepper. Cook the truffies truffles very lightly, taking with salt and pepper. care care not to let them them dry up. Put them partridge. Dilute them on the partridge. the pan juices with Madeira, Madeira, add a few tablespoons brown brown Game stock (see STOCK), blend in a little butter, butter, Game stock STOCK), boil down, blend strain, and pour over over the partridge. Partridge soufflé. DE PERDREAU rERDREAU -- Old partridges sourrrf DE souff6. SOUFFLÉ are prepared in in this this way. The soufflé souffi6 mixture is made from partridge.. meat in the same manner as "l'l'rtriti(, as Woodcock soufflé sotffid (see

jelly). thr,rr>llolhh, before before serving. serving. Chill thoroughly Stufred partridges nmrtri.tm~~ in aspic (tinned or canned). rERDREAUx PERDREAUX FARcIs FARCIS iÀ u, LA cerEn - Partly bone the partridges. Stuff them with a big piece of of raw fat goose liver, liver, encrusted encrusted with one or two medium-sized truffies which which have been peeled, seasoned seasoned with spiced salt and sprinkled sprinkled with brandy, brandy, and and enclosed in a salt and layer of truffied Fine Fine pork porkforcemeat FORCEMEATS). forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). Truss the partridges as as for an an entrde, entrée, wrap each each in a thin rasher ofbacon fat or a piece ofpig's of of pig's caul. Put them into a saut6 sauté pan on a foundation ofchopped of chopped bacon rinds, carrots carrots and onions and the giblets of of the birds, all ail lightly lightly tossed in butter. wine. butter. Moisten with with Madeira or any other liqueur wine. Cook gently, with the lid on, for l0 10 minutes. Moisten with good strongjelly prepared bacon prepared from calves'feet calves' feet and fresh bacon rinds (but Cook in the oven oven for for 30 30 to 35 minutes. minutes. (but no gelatine). gelatine). Cook Drain the partridges, remove remove barding barding and trussing string, and dry the birds on a cloth. Put each into a tin-plated can, breast breast downwards, and leave leave to cool. When Wh en quite cold, cover them them with with the the jelly jelly in which they were cooked, clarified c1arified in the usual manner (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Clarffication of of aspic aspic jelly). jelly). Leave Leave until quite cold. Solder Solder the tins (cans). Boil Boil them them in water for 45 45 minutes, making ma king sure that during this operation operation boiling does single moment. does not cease for a single Take the tins water, put Take tins out of of the water, put them them on on the table table in such are breast breast downwards. Cool. Mark a way that the partridges are the tin on the top to make sure it is breast breast side up when when you open it. aspic

Terrine of partridge. TERRTNE DE eERDREAU - Prepared like Potted pheasant (see PHEASANT). partridge. TIMBALE Timbale of n~lrtr'Îtlo'" Prepared like TIMBALE DE IERDREAU PERDREAU -- Prepared Timbale of woodcock (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). (roast). IERDREAU Truffied partridge (roast). rnurre (n0n) PERDREAU TRUFFÉ (RÔTI) -- Partly bone a plump partridge, partridge, opening opening it on the back, back, near near the neck (the bird having been cleaned from the front). Through this pork fat studded with I cup) pork opening stuff it with 100 I 00 g. (4 oz., 1 pieces of truffie, and quarters. Truss Truss and75 75 g. (3 oz.) truffies cut in quarters. partridge and wrap it in a thin slice of the partridge of bacon Roast in bacon fat. Roast slow oyen METHODS, Average cooking CULINARY METHODS, oven (see CULINARY a slow

wooDcocK).

pnnpRrau À Partridge V AROF -- Stuff Partridge ài la Souvarof. PERDREAU rl SOU A LA souvnnor gras and the partridge foie gras truffies cut in in large large dice, the partridge with foie and truffies pepper and sprinkled seasoned with salt and pepper sprinkled with aa dash of brandy. Truss as as for an an entrée. entrde. Brown quickly in butter, to stiffen it. it. Put Put into into an stiffen an oval-shaped oval-shaped earthenware cocotte. Surround with 3 truffies cut in large pieces, or whole truffles, truffies, peeled and seasoned. seasoned. Moisten with with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant I cup) Madeiraflavoured gamefumet (q.v.), to which the pan juices, diluted with with Madeira, have been added. Sprinkle with a dash of brandy. Coyer Cover the cocotte with its lid and seal with with fiour-and-water fiour-and-water partridge in a hot oyen paste. Cook the partridge oven for 40 minutes. Serve in the cocotte. inthe Stuffed FARcIs À l LA re GELÉEcrrfn Stufred partridge in aspic. PERDREAUX IERDREAUx FARCIS Slit the partridges along the back, bone, and bone, open them out and season with diced season diced spiced salt. salt. Stuff each each with truffied Game Game (see FORCEMEATS), placing fnr'f'PI'l1P,'lt (see placing in in the the middle middle aa forcemeat piece of g'ras, encrusted with of foie with 1I peeled truffie, truffie, seasoned seasoned foie gras, with spiced salt and sprinkled with brandy. in aa Reshape the the partridges. Truss them, them, wrap wrap each each one one in thin slice of bacon fat fat or aa piece of pig's cau!. caul. Cook in aa little (see JELL Madeira-flavoured Y, Game jelly stock) Madeira-flavoured aspic jelly (see JELLY, stock\ made made from from the veal knuckle the scraps trimmed trimmed off the birds, aa veal and fresh bacon rinds. When When the f."", are the partridges are cooked, cooked, drain drain them, them, unwrap, untruss untruss and and dry on cloth. Put into terrine on aa clotho into an an oval-shaped oval-sha d terrine

times for roasls). roasts). timesfor Serve either with the diluted pan juices or with Pdrigueux SAUCE) to which the diluted pan juices have been sauce (see SAUCE) added. truffling of game or poultry should be done at atleast24 The truffling least 24 in advance. advance. This will render the the flesh flesh more more flavourhours in some. When When the cooked on spit, coyer cover it the bird bird isis being cooked on aa spit, sorne. completely with with aa piece of buttered greaseproof paper; of buttered completely remove minutes before taking taking the bird off offthe rem ove a few minutes the spit, so as to brown it. partridge,like Truffied partridge, all other trufHed truffied winged game, can Truffied like ail cooked in a casserole casserole or a cocotte. also be cooked pERDRE,c,u À la vigneronne. PERDREAU A LA r,l VIGNERONNE vIcNERoNNE -Partridge ài la partridge as Truss the partridge an entrée butter in a as for an entrde and cook it in butter casserole or a cocotte. casserole 24 cocotte . Untruss it, and put into the casserole casserole grapes. Add seeded grapes. Add 3 tablespoons tablespoons (scant ~* cup) peeled and seeded "up) game fumet (q.v.) and and 1I tablespoon flaming brandy. Simmer gamefumet it minutes. Serve in the casserole in which it with aa lid on for 5 minutes. cooked. was cooked.

(Russian cookery) -- This PASKHA (Russian This dish dish used used to to be be an PASKHA essential part of the Easter table in Russia. (S lb.) Press out from 22 kg. kg. (4~ lb.) cream out any any excess moisture from Press (U.S. cottage) cheese, blend (2i lb.) sour cream, blend with with 1I kg. (2;j; g. (9 (9 oz., 125 g. butter, I teaspoon teaspoon salt, salt, 125 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, (3 tabletablespoons (3 (4 oz., ti cup) vanilla flavoured sugar, 2 tablespoons (2 oz., g. (2 grated lemon rind, oz.,it cup) cup) chopped chopped rind, 50 g. spoons) finely grated

L"UF,'v",

669 669

PASSARELLE PASSARELLE almonds and 5 tablespoons (6 tablespoons) seedless raisins. raisins. When Wh en the the mixture is very smooth, place in a a muslin-lined muslin-lined receptacle receptacle (traditionally (traditionally pyramid pyramid shaped) shaped) which which will allow the top and and leave in a cool the mixture mixture to drain. Put a weight on top place. place. Turn out on on a dessert dish dish and and decorate with sultanas, sultanas, chopped chopped pistachio pistachio nuts nuts or or crystallised fruit.

General General rules rules for for making pastilles. 1. 1. Choose very white, Choose very well weil grained and odourless odourless sugar. Pound it into powder, sift through a a horsehair horsehair sieve, the finest part by sieve, and and remove the finest part means of a silk sieve. This powder, being too fine, fine, has the drawback drawback of making the the pastilles too too heavy heavy and compact, and and less shiny. shiny. 2. Dilute Dilute the sugar sugar with aromatic quantity of aromatic essence and a quantity water. water. Use Use a a small small silver pan, if if possible, possible, as will not silver pan, as it will communicate communicate any unpleasant unpleasant taste to the mixture. mixture. 3. Watch the sugar sugar carefully carefully while it is on the heat, stirring from from time to time when when the mixture mixture begins to simmer. simmer. 4. Make Make sure sure that that the mixture mixture is not too liquid for pouring. pouring. Should that that be be the case. case, take take the mixture mixture off the heat and stir offthe with with a wooden wooden spoon spoon until it acquires acquires the desired consistency. consistency. 5. 5. Make sure that the flavourings flavourings used, which which are juices pressed pressed out out from from various kinds of offruit, are fresh. fruit, are Coffee PASTILLES nu AU c,lFf CAFÉ - Prepare l* It kg. (3 lb.) CofJee pastilles. pastilles. pAsrrLLEs finest quality sugar sugar as described described above. above. Bring Bring 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l oz., t cup) ground ground coffee corree to the boil several sever al times in jt litre (scant (scant pint, 2f 2t cups) cups) water. Pour Pour through through a straining straining bag in which a piece piece of of gelatine gelatine has has been been put, to make make the grounds grounds settle. seule. use for for diluting the When the liquid is cold, strain and When and use sugar, sugar, then then proceed proceed to pour pour the pastilles. pastilles. Jasmine pastilles. pastilles. pASrrLLBs PASTILLES AU AU JAsMTN JASMIN - Pound and sift 1| li Jasmine kg. kg. (a (4Ib.) sugar, put put it into aa china bowl bowl and and dilute dilute with 50 g. lb.) sugar, (2 oz.) oz.) jasmine jasmine essence, adding water until it forms a paste. Roll, and and make make into into pastilles. pastilles. jonquil and tuberose pastilles are made in a Mignonette, jonquil Mignonette, similar manner, manner, using using the same sa me quantity of the essence of these flowers flowers per per pound pound ofsugar. of sugar. these PASTILLES A À rl LA rlrun FLEUR D'oRANcER D'ORANGER Orange-blossom pastilles. pastilles. pAsrrLLES Orange-blossom li kg. kg. (4 lb.) white white superfine sugar in a a marble -- Pound l* mortar. Sift Sift itit through through a horsehair horsehair or or silk sieve sieve to extract extract the mortar. finest part, part, which can be be kept kept for other other uses. uses. finest Put the the rest of of the the sugar sugar into into a china china bowl bowl and add double double Put orange-blossom water, water, stirring stirring with a wooden spoon. spoon. Pour Pour a orange-blossom on at at aa time time and and stir stir continuously continuously until the the paste paste is liule water water on little quite quite firm. If If too too much much water water has been been added, added, and and the the paste

PASSARELLE PASSARELLE -- Dried Dried Muscatel grapes, grapes, prepared in the

Frontignan Frontignan region as well weil as as in Smyrna Smyrna and and Damascus. Damascus. The process process of of turning turning these these grapes into raisins is called passerillage sarillage. passerillage or or pas passarillage.

Passe-Crassane Passe-Crassane pear pearss (Wide (Witte W World) or Id)

PASSE"CRASSANE PASSE-CRASSANE -- Variety Variety of of very very fragrant fragrant winter win ter pear. pear. PASSE POMME -- Name PASSE-POMME Name given given to to three three varieties varieties of of apple which which ripen ripen in in August: August: white, white, red red and and Jerusalem. Jerusalem.

PASSE"TOUT-GRAIN PASSE-TOUT-GRAIN or or PASSE-TOUS-GRAINS PASSE-TOUS-GRAINS Name Name of of aa red red Burgundy Burgundy wine wine made made partly partly from from black black Pinot Pinot grapes grapes and and partly parti y from from Gamay Gamay grapes grapes (the proportion proportion of Pinot Pinot being being at at least least one one third). third).

PASSION PASSION FRUIT. FRUIT. BARBADTNE BARBADINE -- Edible Edible fruit fruit of of the the passionpassionflower or giant giant granadilla, granadilla, used used as as aa dessert. dessert. flower tree tree or

PASTA PASTA

See ITALIAN ITALIAN PASTA, PASTA, MACARONI, MACARONI, See

NOODLES, NOODLES, RAVIOLI, RAVIOLI, SPAGHETTI. SPAGHETTI. PASTA PASTA FROLLA FROLLA -- Italian Italian name name for for aa very very delicate delicate sweet sweet pastry pastry similar similar to to Savarin Savarin pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH, DOUGH, Savarin Savarin dough\. dough).

PASTEURISATION PASTEURISATION -- Process Process of of heating heating aa liquid liquid up up to to aa temperature temperature between between 70' 70° and and 80'C. 80°e. (158" (158° and and 176"F.), 176°F.), then then cooling cooling quickly. quickly. Pasteurisation Pasteurisation arrests arrests development development of of cercertain and increases increases the the duration duration for for which which the the product product tain bacteria bacteria and can can be be kept, kept, without without assuring assuring complete complete sterilisation. sterilisation. UnforUnfortunately, tunately, pasteurisation pasteurisation often often removes removes valuable valu able nutrients. nutrients.

PASTILLAGE PASTILLAGE -- Paste Paste which which was was much much in in demand demand in in the the past decorating big big pastry pastry and and confectionery confectionery creations, creations, as as past for for decorating well and ornaments ornaments used used for for dressing dressing big big cakes. cakes. This This well as as pillars pillars and

paste made from from icing icing sugar, sugar, powdered powdered starch, starch, gum gum paste was was made tragacanth and and water. water. Pastillage Pas tillage isis not not much much used used nowadays. nowadays. tragacanth

PASTILLE PASTILLE -- Small Small round round confection confection made made from from dissolved dissolved sugar and and water, water, poured poured hot, hot, drop drop by by drop, drop, onto onto aa cold co Id sugar marble slab. slab. The The sugar sugar is is usually usually flavoured flavoured with with various various marble aromatic flavourings. flavourings. Pastilles Pastilles are are manufactured manufactured almost almost aromatic

(Maison Moral) PPastillage astillage (M ai s o n M o r at)

entirely in in factories. factories. entirelv 670 670

PASTRIES, PASTRIES, BASES BASES FOR FOR dough or or short short pastry. pastry. Recipes Recipes for for both bath these these will be be found found in

liltle powdered powdered sugar sugar itil with aa little (some (sorne of which which should be he kept kept in in reserve reserve for for such such an

has has become become too tao liquid, liquid, thicken

the the section section entitled entitled DOUGH. DOUGH. Lard Lard pastry pastry dough. dougb. pArs PÂTE au AU sArNDoux SAINDOUXkg. - Ingredients. I1 kg. (2+ (2t lb.) lb.) sifted sifted flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) warm, melted melted lard,2 lard, 2 whole whole eggs, eggs, 44 dl. (f (t pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) warm water and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon salt. salt. Method. Prepare in the same manner manner as ordinary pastry dough (see (see above). above). Use Use for for big big cold pies. pies. Pufr Puff pastry pastry shells. shells. cRoOrEs CROÛTES on DE soucnErs BOUCHÉES rsu[rrr6rs FEUILLETÉES Prepare Prepare with with puffpastry puff pastry rolled rolJed out OUl six six times, limes, and and leave leave to ta rest.

emergency) . emergency).

To Ta test tes! whether whelber the the composition composition has has reached reached the desired desired

if

degree, take aa little litt]e of ofit on a wooden wooden spoon, spoon. hold hold itil up, up, and if degree, take it on

just right. becomes detached detClched it isisjust right. it becomes Put 100 g. (4 oz.) oz.) of of this this paste paste into into a small pan pan with a long long spout. spou\. Heat Heut on the the stove stove until itit becomes hecomes liquid, liquid, stirring stirring with with the the wooden spoon. spoon . Remove Remove from the the heat when when the paste pas te is just abolit to boil. Stirring Stirring it a few rew more times, times. begin begin to pour just about onto tin-plated tin-plated metal sheets sheets in the following manner: manncr : onto Hold the pan with your left hand hand and, tipping the spout SPOU! very gently, pour the paste with the aid of a knitting knitting needle

Roll Roll out out 8 mm. mm . (t (t inch) thick. thick . Cut Cut out out pastry rounds about 6 cm.. (2linches) cm (2! inches) in diameter. Put Put these these onto onto a a wet weI baking sheet, turning turning them them over. over. Using a round round cutter, cUlter, 3 cm (l| o! inches) Înches) across, dipped in hot pastry,, and mark water, waler, mark mark out out the lids of of the pieces pieces of ofpastry mark the the edges edges with a knife. Cook Cook in in a hot oven. oyen. When baked baked take take out out of of the the oven oyen and remove remove the the lids. lids. Fill FiJI them Ihem with with whatever whatever preparation preparation is indicated. Raised pastry case case cooked cookerl blind. blind. cno0rE CROÛTE DE DE cRANDE GRANDE Raised pastry charlotte TIMBALE cure CUITE A À BLANc BLANC ,- Butter the interior interior of a a charlotte (see mould decorate the sides with pieces of noodle paste mould and decorate pieces ofnoodle paSle (sec NOODLES). Roll sorne some short pastry cm.. (8 pastry into into a round round about 20 20 cm (8 inches) in diameter. Sprinkle Sprinkle lightly !ightly with with flour Aour and fold in half. Draw this half-circle Draw the points of ofthis half-circle together together in such a way as (f inch) thick. to form a dome. dome. Roll RoH it out once 8 mm. (1 thick . Press into noodle paste inlo the Ihe mould, mould, without without disturbing the the noodle pasle decorations. Line with a fine buttered paper paper and fill 611 it up with dried raw beans. Put PUI aa dome-shaped dome-shaped piece of paper on top of the dry joining the filling, and sheet of pastry on top of this, joining and aa thin sheet fingers. Make the with the fingers. edges together by gently pressing wilh rim of pinching this borderwilh of the pie by pinching border.with pastry both pastry pincers pincees bath part forming the lid, inside out. Moisten with water the part and OUI. inside and it. ofpastry on il. and put leaves and roses cut from a thin sheet ofpastry pastry.. Stick Put circles of on top of small circles of the lid of pastry lid 33 or 44 small Put on these together for' opening in the middle to allow for' together and make an opening the escape of steam during during cooking. Brush the olltsideof outside'of the of stcam pie wilh to with egg and cook in the aven oven al at moderate moderate heat for 30 ta 35 minutes. minutes . Remove the is cooked off the the lid lid.. Remove the pastry is cooked,) take off When the paper and provisional provisional filling; brush the interior with egg and and preparation is dry off in in aa warm place. Fill Fill itit wilh with whatever preparation dry indicated. cooked blind in this way, are used used or timbales, timbales, cooked Raised pies, pies, or for aa number filled aCter number of They can can be be filled after of mixed mixed entrées. entrdes. They for in cooking with various ragoûts arranged in ragofrts or with macaroni arranged cooking layers alternating various incomposed of of various alternating with with aa ragoût ragofrt composed layers gredients combined with a white or brown sauce. gredients Pastry sticks STRAWS.. sticks-- See ALLUMETTES, STRAWS

fixed fixed in a small small piece of ofwood, held in your your right right hand. Move Move wood, held such a way as as to ta make the the saucepan and the needle in such paste drop on the metal sheet in the shape of little liule buttons buttons (which are are called called pastilles). pastilles). There There are special droppers droppers for shaping shaping boiled sugar sugar drops. drops . Take care to to space the pastilles properly pro perl y when when pouring pouring Take pour the same same quantity of of paste pasle for all ail of of them. them. them, and to pour sheets, put Leave Leave for I1 hour, hOllf, take the pastilles pastilles off the metal sheets, them on a paper-covered paper-covered sieve, and leave leave in a warm place for them a day day.. Longer than that would diminish the aroma. (a lb.) Rose pastilles. l? kg. (4 pastilles. pAsrrLLEs PASTILLES À LA RosE R.OSE -'Pound - 'Pound Il lb .) e re best sugar in a marble mortar, mortar, sift through through a horse-hair sieve into a bowl, dilute with attar altar of roses roses until until it forms a a fairly paSle, and drop drop from the pan with wilh the aid of knitling thick paste, of a knitting (.Le Confiseur needle as described above.' (Le 8 2 1 .) C onfiseur moderne, 1J82J.) (B6arn cake) -- ''Mix PASTlS (Béarn Mix 12 12 eggs wilh 1I tablespoon tublespoon PASTIS eggs with orange blossom water, I1 small glass of orange blossom of brandy, 400 g. (14 oz., (a oz., Itcups) I~cups) fine finesugar. 1cup) melted melted little milk and 100 g. (4 oz.,lcup) sugar, a little butter and whisk vigorously. butter 'Add aa tittle 'Add Aour until until the little baker's yeast and stir, stir, adding flour paste is sufficiently thick. paste loaf in the bowl, sprinkle 'Blend the dough weil, well, roll into a loafin with next with a c10th cloth and lave, near the fire, until next with flour, cover with day day.. in aa hOI hot oven.' 'Put the dough inlo into a buttered tin and bake in (Simin Palay: La Cuisine en Béarn.) Bdarn.\ is an called by by this an Armagnac pastry delicacy delicacy also called There is name name..

enjoyed in in name for for an an aniseed aniseed apêrilif ap6ritif enjoyed PASTIS -- Popular name the south of Fra nce. There are severa! several varieties. varieties. ofFrance. (called 'la verre'). has taken the place of absinth (called verte'), the the Pastis has prohibited. There There is is an popular pre-1914 drink, now now prohibited. an Order called Anysetiers Anysetiers du Roy.

pArn-- See also DOUGH DOUGH.. PASTRY. PÂTE pies. l'ÂTF. Pastry dougb rArn ORDINAIRE oRDINAIRE -Pasrry dough for for hot hot or or cold cold pies. Ingredients. 1I kg. (2i oz., generous Ingredients. sifted Aour, flour, 250 250 g. (9 oz., Qla lb.) sifted (t cup) buuer, tablespoon salt, salt, about about 44 dl. cup) butter, 22 whole eggs, eggs, 1I tablespoon dl. (~ pint,, scant quantity of water water may may vary vary pint scant 22 cups) water. The The quantity cups) water_ quality quality offlour depending on The better the quality depending used. The of flour used. on the quality of flour, the more water it can can absorb absorb.. put and PUI Method. Spread in aa circ1e circle 00 on the board and Melhod. Spread the the flour in salt,, water, water, eggs in the middle. Mix in the usual the salt eggs and and butter in paste 1O manner and make ilit smoolh smooth and and manner and knead knead the the paste to make keep in in aa homogeneous. _Roll homogeneous Roll into aa baH, ball, wrap in in aa cloth cloth and and keep cool cool place uOlil until required for use. pastry, like prepared at pastry, should least 12 12 Pie pastry, at least Pie like ail all pastry, should be be prepared (and the pastry (and before itit is A well-rested well-rested paslry hours berore is to to be be used. used. A pastry made 24 hours) rest up made according tp ta to 24 pastry according to this this recipe recipe can can rest less colour during baking. baking. easier to work isis easier work and and takes takes on on less colour during pArr.A, Common briocbe Some Common À BRIOCHE dough. PÂTE BRrocI{E COMMUNE coMMUNE -- Sorne brioche dough. pies, especially small pies, or small those made made in in the the shape shape of of aval oval or especially those patties or by hand, hand, without without rectangular patties or turnovers, are are shaped shaped by mould, and common brioche aa mould, mon brioche and are are made made of of unsweetened unsweetened corn

pArtssrinn -- Custard PASTRY CREAM, FRENCH. CRÈME cntrr,m PÂTISSIÈRE PASTRY made of eggs, is used eggs, sugar, sugar, Aour, flour, milk and flavouring, which is pastry-making as in pastry-making for various cakes, cakes, such such as as choux. choux, as filling for in (See CREAMS.) This preparation preparation is is dclairs, batons de de Jacob Jacob.. (See éclairs, also known as confectioner's confectioner's custard. also prNcg PASTRY CRIMPER CRIMPER or or PINCER. PINCE PASTRY the edges of ofpies, etc. pinching Ihe pies, tarts, etc.

Tool used for used for - Tooi

-

pArB -- Instrument Instrument used used to to cut cut CUTTER. COUPE coupE PÂTE PASTRY CUITER. pastry into They are are either either sheets of paslry round or or oval oval shapes. shapes. They into round sheets in various sizes. sizes. can be fluted, and be bought in or Auted, and can plain or

pastry (001 PASTRY WHEEL. tool of of Small pastry WHEEL. GAUFREUSE cAUFREUSE -- Small PASTRY place of metal to crimp crimp the the in place metal pastry pincers to hardwood, used in edges of oftarts and pastries. edges larts and pArrssERrE - Many PASTRIES. BASES FOR. l'ONDS roNos DE oB PÂTISSERIE BASES FOR. PASTRIES, - Manv 671 671

pArB PÂTÉ Fonds r6serve réserve -- Pound 100 g. g. (4 oz., oz., 1I cup) fresh blanched blanched almonds and add with 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) sugar to 2 egg whites. Whip 200 g. g. (7 oz., scant cup) sugar and 12 egg and 12 egg yolks over over hot water. Add Add the first mixture mixture to this along with 100 00 g. (4 oz., 100 g. (4 oz., I1 cup) cup) flour, I100 scant cup) cornflour oz.,scant cornflour or arrowroot and l0 whites, stiffiy 10 egg whites, stiffly beaten. Pour thinly onto greased, greased, floured baking baking trays and bake bake in a slow oyen. oven. Fonds sabl6s g. (4t (41 oz., sablés -- 250 g. (9 oz.,2f oz., 2-!- cups) flour, 125 g. oz, generous ($ oz., generous generous! g. (4! generous!f cup) butter, butter, * cup) sugar, 125 g. 175 g. (6 oz.,ltcups) oz., I! cups) ground ground almonds, 2 eggs, vanilla. Knead Knead the the butter butter and and flour, flour, then then blend blend ail all ingredients together without further kneading. Set aside in a cool place. Cut Cut into shapes shapes and and bake bake in a moderate oyen. oven. This This is excellent excellent for lining lining moulds mou Ids for iced sweets. Fonds succis succès -- Pound Pound 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., scant 2 cups) cups) dried, blanched almonds with 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) sugar. Blend Blend with 12 egg egg whites, stiffly stiffiy beaten. Bake Bake in a slow oven oyen greased, floured floured trays. on greased, Pite Pâte -- Pdte Pâte is a general term used used for pastry doughs, doughs, bread doughs, sweet pastes and batters. For recipes, see DOUGH OOUGH and and PASTRY. PASTRY.

Pastry Pastry crimper crimper

Set Set offluted offluted

pastfy pastry cutters cutters (Dehillerin. (Dehillerin. Phot. Phol. Larousse) Larousse)

PATf PÂTÉ -- This This word word is is used used in three three ways ways in French: pdtd, pâté, pdti pâté

pâté en crofrte.In croûte. In France the word word pAti pâté on its en terrine and and pAtd its own should, should, strictly speaking, only be be applied applied to to a a dish own of aa pastry pastry case filled with with meat, meat, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables or consisting of fruit, which which is baked baked in in the the oven oyen and served hot or cold. The fruit, best English English translation translation of of this this word is 'pie', although although many man y best of these these dishes dishes are much much richer richer and and more elaborate than the of sort of of pie pie usually usually eaten in England EngJand or the the U.S.A., and are sort often prepared prepared in moulds moulds rather rather than than pie dishes. A selection selection often of such such recipes recipes will will be be found found under under PIE. PIE. of Pâté en en terrine terrine isis aa meat, meat, game game or or fish fish preparation preparation put put into into a Pdtd dish (terrine) lined lined with with bacon, bacon, cooked cooked in in the the oven oyen and and always always dish(terrine) served cold. cold. The The correct correct French French abbreviation abbreviation of of this this is terrine served but in in common common usage usage the the French French also call call itpAft. itpâté. The The English but and Americans Americans have have adopted both both names names but as the strictly and correct and and less less confusing confusing term term is terrine, terrine, instructions instructions on the the correct preparation of of such dishes dishes are are given given under under TERRINE. TERRINE. preparation Pâté en en croute croute (see (see below) below) is a rich rich meat, meat, game or fish fish Pdtd mixture cooked cooked in in aa pastry pastry crust crust and and always always served served cold. mixture Amiens duck duck pfrt6. pâté. pAre PÂTÉ oe DE cANARD CANARD D'AMrENs D'AMIENS -- There are Amiens two kinds kinds of ofpdti pâté made made in in Amiens: Amiens: one one with with boned boned duck, duck, the two other with with unboned unboned duck. duck. other The duck duck pdti pâté is is made made without without aa mould; mould; itit is is shaped by by The hand. Here Here is is aa recipe recipe for aa pdti pâté of of unboned unboned duck as as itit was hand. made in in Amiens Amiens towards towards the the middle middle of of the the last last century. made The pastry. pastry. Use Use 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4| 4i cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 100 100 g. g. The (4 (4 oz., oz., *! cup) cup) lard, lard, I1 tablespoon tablespoon olive olive oil, oil, I1 whole whole egg, l+ I! teaspoons fine fine salt salt and and about about l{tablespoons It tablespoons (2tablespoons) (2 tablespoons) teaspoons water. water. 'Spread the the flour flour on on aa board board in in aa circle, circle, make make aa well weil in in the the 'Spread middle and and put put in in the the salt. salt. Break Break in in the the egg egg and and dissolve dissolve the the middle salt in in it. it. Add Add olive olive oil. oil. Knead Knead the the lard lard ifif itit is is hard, hard, and and mix mix it salt with the the liquid liquid part part of of the the ingredients ingredients in in the the middle middle of of the the with flour. Rub Rub the the lard lard mixture mixture and and flour flour together together without without flour. moistening. When When the the paste paste is is well weil mixed, mixed, spread spread it it on on aa moistening. marble slab sI ab and and sprinkle sprinkle with with cold cold water. water. Keep Keep itit on on the the firm firm marble Roll together together into into one one lump lump and and leave leave to to rest rest in in aa cool cool side. Roll side. place for for at at least least 22 hours hours before before using. using. place The duck.'Only duck. 'Only young young ducklings ducklings which which take take very very little litt le The cooking time time should should be be used used for for thesepdris. these pâtés. cooking 'The duck duck having having been been killed, killed, plucked, plucked, cleaned cleaned out out and and 'The singed, remove remove carefully carefully any any innards innards which which may may have have been been singed, left in. in. Cut Cut offthe off the pinions pinions aa little little below below the the first firstjoint from the the joint from left shoulder. shoulder. 'Cut off off the the feet feet at at the the joint. joint. Season Season the the duck duck with with spiced spiced 'Cut and outside. outside. Cut Cut up up aa scalded scalded breast breast of of bacon bacon salt, inside inside and salt,

French French sweets sweets (desserts), (desserts), gdteaux gâteaux and and petits petits fours fours are are based based on on one one of of the the following following mixtures. mixtures. Fonds g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, Fonds de de Berrichons Berrichons -- 250 250 g. 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., scant scant 22 cups) cups) dried dried blanched blanched almonds, almonds, l0 10 egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten.

Pound Pound the the almonds almonds and and add add with with the the sugar sugar to to the the egg egg whites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen on on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. Fonds Fonds br6siliens brésiliens -- Pound Pound 250 250 grams grams (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar with with 250 250 grams grams (9 (9 oz., oz., scant scant 2 2 cups) cups) unblanched unblanched almonds almonds and and blend blend with with 33 egg egg whites whites and and 50 50 g. g. (2 o2.,3 oz., 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) honey. honey. Add Add to to this this mixture mixture 100 100 g. g. (a (4 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) cocoa cocoa powder powder andT and 7 eggwhites, egg whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. oyen on oven Fonds Fonds napolitains napolitains -- 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) butter, butter, 250 250 g.g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2f 2-!-cups) flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, cups) flour, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous 22 cups) cups) ground ground almonds, almonds, 33 egg egg yolks. yolks. Knead Knead the the butter butter and and flour, flour, then then add add the the sugar sugar and and the the egg egg yolks. yolks. Mix Mix without without kneading kneading and and roll roll out. out. Cut Cut or or shape shape as as required required and and bake bake in in aa moderate moderate oven. oyen. Fonds or noisette noisette -- 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar Fonds noix noix or 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) walnuts walnuts or or hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,t oz., 1CUP) butter, butter, "up) 125 125 g. g. ($ (41- oz., oz., I1cup) cup) cornflour cornflour or or arrowroot, arrowroot, 30 30 egg egg yolks, 24 24 yolks, egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Pound Pound the the nuts nuts and and the the sugar, sugar, then then work work together together with with the the and butter. butter. Add Add the the cornflour cornflour or or arrowroot arrowroot and and the the eggyolks yolks and egg egg whites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen on on greased greased floured floured trays. trays. egg Fonds Fonds perl6s perlés -- Fold Fold 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) sugar sugar and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous 22 cups) cups) ground ground almonds almonds into into 12 12 egg egg whites, whites, stifry stiffly beaten. beaten. Butter Butter and and flour flour aa baking baking tray. tray. Rinse Rinse aa cake ring ring with with hot hot water. water. Place Place itit on on the the baking baking tray tray and and fill fill cake with the the mixture. mixture. Dust Oust with with icing icing sugar. sugar. Unmould Unmould the the with mixture onto onto the the tray tray and and dust dust again again with with sugar. sugar. Bake Bake in in aa mixture slow oven. oyen. slow IfIfpreferred, preferred, the the cake cake may may be be dusted dusted with with sugar sugar only only after after thecake cake ring ringhas has been been removed. removed. the Fonds progris progrès -- 125 125 g. g. (4+ (41 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) unblanched unblanched Fonds almonds, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4t oz., oz., ?i c,rp) cup) hazelnuts, hazelnuts, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., almonds, generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, l0 10 egg egg whites, whites, stiffiy stiffly beaten. beaten. Toast the the almonds almonds and and hazelnuts hazelnuts in in the the oven. oyen. Pound Pound them them Toast and blend blend with withthe the sugar sugar and and egg eggwhites. whites. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen and on greased, greased, floured floured trays. trays. on 672 672

PATE fat the surface surface fat pastry lid, off the scrape off the pastry as as follows: follows: Remove the lid, scrape hot into hot spoon dipped dipped into with aa big big spoon the pdtd layer and ladle out the lad le out pâté with filled shells shells Put the the filled fill aa shell. shell. Put pdtd to fiIJ enough pâté up enough water. Scoop up on a plate. plate. pastry placing the the pastry dish, placing crust on on aa dish, emptypdti Arrange the empty pâté crust layer of of chopped chopped with aa layer lid with lid on it upside down. Garnish the lid !id piling them jelly. Dispose the scallop gras on them it, piling on it, of foie gras scallop shells shells offoie up in a heap. found commonly found type most commonly tds, the the type Rectangular-shapedpdpâtés, Rectangular-shaped halved and and then halved which are are then in shops, in s!ices, slices, which shops, are are eut cut in in dish. slightly, on on aa long dish. arranged, overlapping slightly, arranged, pArf D'ALOUETTES Bone pfit6 en pantin. PÂTÉ EN PANTIN PANTIN -- Bone o'.trousrrEs EN Lark pâté (see I gratin forcemeat (see with A stuff with the larks larks completely and and stuff the piece of truffle. Wrap Wrap each each FORCEMEATS) studded studded with aa piece in 1I thin rasher of of bacon. lark in (see DOUGH), DOUGH), pasle (see Lining paste of Lining Roll out out aa rectangular piece of Roll of with aa layer of put on rasher, spread spread with bacon rasher, on top 1I thin thin bacon put on top of that. lay the the larks larks on and lay forcemeat (truffied, if desired) and forcemeat topped with I rasher with aa layer layer of forcemeat topped Cover the larks with Cover offat of fat bacon. pastry with piece of with aa of pastry rolled-out piece Thin down down the edges edges of of the the rolled-out Thin Put the the them. Put and seal seal them. together and bring the the edges together rolling-pin, bring holes to to or two two holes Make one pdtd upside one or on aa baking tray. Make tpside down down on pâté beaten egg egg brush with with beaten to escape escape during during baking, brusb allow steam steam ta allow in aa moderate oven. and bake in moderate oven. and in the hales holes in get cold. into itit through through the pdtd to Pour into Leave the to get cold. Pour the pâté Leave jelly (see (see ASPIC, stock) ASPIC, Gamejelly Game ielly stock) game aspic the top top sorne some game aspic jelly the butter. some melted melted butter. at once, once, sorne pdti isis not to be be eaten eaten at or,if the pâté not to or, if the pAt6 D'ALOUETTES pdtd the the For this this pâté Pithiviers lark n'lrountrns -- For lark pAt6. PÂTÉ Pithiviers to taste. taste. according to larks can left whole, whole, according can be be boned or or left larks (see with aa Iittle little ÀA gratin forcemeat Stuff each each with Stuff forcemeat (see anda mediumFORCEMEATS), one largecube cube of foie grasand one large FORCEMEATS), a mediumwith spiced salt, wrap in thin sized truffie. truffle. Season the larks larks with sized Season the them out out side by side on a piece of bacon bacon rashers rashers and and lay them larks Cover the larks pastry spread forcemeat. Cover layer of of forcemeat. pastry spread with with aa thin layer pdte. Leave to Leave ta makingthe finish making the pâté. with with the forcemeat and and finish the same same forcemeat pdtd Whenthe thepâti following day. day. When rest on the the following rest for for aa night night and and bake bake on jelly (see (see ASPIC). ASPIC). pour into isis cold, aspic jelly cold, pour into itit sorne someaspic pieces in pdtd into insuch suchaa way To the pâté To serve, into rectangular pieces serve,eut attthe whole lark. piece containsaawho le lar k. Discard as as to to make make sure sure that that each each piece p6td and the serve only only the and serve the pâté the sides of ofthe the crust crust surrounding surrounding the the sides top and and bottom bottom crust. crust. ptt6. PÂTÉ PERDREAU - - Prepare in an oval or Partridge pâté. nArf DE DE PERDREAU (see below). pdtd (see \"\"'U'l.ll",llll<11 mould rectangular llke Woodcock Woodcock pâté mould like andstuffed stuffed Pbeasant pflt6. PÂTÉ Using boned bonedand Pheasant pâté. FAIsAN-- Using rArf DE DEFAISAN (see below). pdtd (see pheasant, pheasant, prepare prepare Iike below). Woodcockpâté like Woodcock into pheasant, cut cutinto This boned pheasant, pdtdcan usingaaboned Thispâté canalso also be be made made using with thin pdtd isis lined slices alternating with with the the slices thin slices. slices. The The pâté lined with rows whole sealed down rows ofslivers truffies,the thewhole andtruffies, of slivers offoie of foie gras and with FORCEM EATS). with G ame for ceme at (see FORCEMEATS). pArfs DE poultry. PÂTÉS Pâtés nr kindsofof pouJtry. Pflt6s made from from various various kinds VOLAILLES pdtdscan fromchicken, chicken,turkey, turkey, bemade made from voLAILLEs- - These These pâtés canbe pigeon, pigeon, or guinea fowl, withan anappropriate appropriate stuffed with fowl, boned, boned, stuffed or guinea forcemeat, the flesh of ofthe with the theflesh forcemeat, foie grasand or with and truffies, truffies,or appropriate gras, truffies and truffiesand with/oie gras, appropriate birdeut slices, withfoie thinslices, cutininthin forcemeat. rectangular orrectangular or bake bake ininoval ovalor byhand handor forcemeat. Shape by moulds (seeDOUGH). paste(see DOUGH). Finelining lining paste lined with Fine moulds Iined Woodcock woodcocks Bonethe thewoodcocks plt6. PÂTÉ onBÉCASSES sfcA,sses - - Bone rArn DE Woodcockpâté. and (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) gratin forcemeat(see with A,4 gratin andstuff stuff with mixed gras offoie thebirds, birds, piecesof ofthe mixed with with the thechopped chopped trail of foiegras and tightly themtightly woodcocks. Wedgethem and truffles. Reshape the thewoodcocks. truffies. Reshape against pastryand and linedwith withpastry mould lined anoval oval mould againstone another ininan oneanother (see bacon with Game Game forcemeat bacon rashers rashers and andcoated coatedwith forcemeat(see FORCEMEAT). place1I forcemeat, place layerof offorcemeat, FORCEMEAT).Cover withaalayer Cover with rasher the crimpthe sealand andcrimp with pastry, seal rasher ofbacon Cover with of bacon on on top.Caver fancy cutininfancy with pieces ofpastryeut topwith edges, and anddeeorate decorate thetop and eggand centre, brush with beatenegg shapes. Make Makeaahole holeininthe thecentre, moderateoven. oven. bake ininaamoderate

(streaky), and and fry fry itit in in aa little little fat fat on a low low fire. Remove Remove it and fry the duck on on low low heat, heat, browning browning itit on on all ail sides. Drain, and leave leave to to cool cool before before making making the the piti. pâté. The The foicemeat. forcemeat. 'A gratin gratinforcemeat forcemeat is always used for this pdti, pâté, composed either either of of calf calf or duck liver. liver. The duck's liver liveT will will be be added to to this forcemeat. forcemeat. (5 oz', g. (5 'Use 500 g. (18 oz.) calf calf or chicken livers, livers, 150 g. oz., 1I cup) shredded shredded fat fat bacon, I1 medium-sized onion, 2 teaspoons teaspoons leaf and and 2 spiced salt, salt, a few few fragments of thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf chopped shallots. shallots. the fat bacon bacon on a low fire and fry in this fat 'Render down the eut in large dice. Add the onion and the livers, trimmed and cut leaf' thyme and and bay shallots and and season with spiced salt, salt, thyme bay leaf. side Cover and leave for a minute minute or two at the si de of the stove. Cover Remove and leave to get cold, then pound in the mortar and Remove rub the the forcemeat forcemeat through through a fine sieve. rub The piltd. pâté. 'When the pastry, pastry, the forcemeat forcemeat and the duck are The ready, proceed proceed to make make the pdtd. pâté. ready, half, roll roll itit 'Divide the pastry into two equal parts. Using half, 'Divide piece out into an oval-shaped cm. (| inch) thick. This piece out oval-shaped piece 1I cm. duck. than the the duck. of pastry should be a little Jonger longer and wider than of in aa baking tin, with aa little cold moistened with Put it in tin, slightly slightly moistened with aa paste adhere. the middle middle with adhere. Spread Spread the water to make the paste and quarter forcemeat and quarter of forcemeat, place the duck in the forcemeat of the forcemeat, the season with spiced salt and aa little cayenne pepper. Cover Cover the season duck with the rest of completely. enclosing it comr::lletely of the forcemeat, forcemeat, enclosing 'Put 'Put another oval-shaped piece of pastry over over the duck, seal the edges, top with with the top edges, crimp up the sides and decorate the dough eut to in the the centre centre ta hole in cut out in shapes. Make aa hole in fancy shapes. allow for steam. 'Brush the pastry crust with beaten egg. oven in aa hot aven egg. Bake in for llto li ta li (M. Dumont-Lespine's Dumont-Lespine's depending on on size.' (M. lf hours, hours, depelfldlmg recipe.) Shape pit6. PÂTÉ RoUENNAIs -- Shape rArr DE DE CANETON cANEroN ROUENNAIS Rouen duckling pâté. by hand as Id as lloodcock mould as Woodcock pdti (see below), or in aa mou or in as Lark Lark pâté pâté (see gratin (see below), using boned pdtd with A ,4 gratin stuffed with boned duckling duckling stuffed forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS),/oie gras and truffles. and truffles. forcemeat Pâté AUx gras witb DE FOIE FoIE GRAS GRAs AUX Pflt6 of with truffes. pArn DE of foie foie gras TRUFFES (for aa pâté pdtd in aa mortar Pound finely finely in TRUFFEs -- Theforcemeat. mortar (for The forcemeal. Pound for (l lb.) g. (1 fresh (13 oz.) pork, 475 lb.) fresh persons) 375 g. (13 475 g. lean park, oz.) lean for 10 10 persons) 375 g. bacon this (5 oz.) Season this g. (5 liver parings. Season raw goose liver bacon and and 150 150 g. oz.) raw forcemeat rub and rub sall (see SALT) and forcemeat with with 44 teaspoons teaspoons Spiced salt

through aa sieve. sieve. (or 22 small goose liver small pared goose liver (or gras. Stud big, pared Stud aa big, The foie gras. Iivers) with spiced spiced generously with seasoned with of truffle, truffle, seasoned livers) generously with pieces of salt. and season season Madeira and brandy and and Madeira salt. Marinate Marinate this this liver liver in brandy with with spiced spiced salt. salt. The given under PIE, line line under PIE, the instructions instructions given The pdtd. Following the aa round or a hinged mould (see mould with with Fine Fine lining paste (see DOUGH) and Coat the sides and DOUGH) made butter or or lard. lard. Coat made with butter bottom which 1I to which forcemeat, to layer of of the the forcemeat, bottom of with aa layer of the the mould mould with tablespoon the liver liver left from from marinating marinating the liquor left tablespoon brandy brandy and and liquor have the mould. mould. middle of of the liver in in the the middle have been been added. Put the the liver added. Put Cover Place piling itit up dome. Place up in in aadome. with aa layer layer offorcemeat, of forcemeat, piling Cover with on bay leaf. leaf. and aa smaJl small bay on top top 1I rasher rasher of of bacon bacon and Cover the pastry, seal crimp the seal and and crimp piece of rolled-out pastry, of rolled-out Cover with with aa piece pastry cut fancy out inin fancy pieces of cut out of pastry top with with pieces edges. Decorate Decorate the the top pastry rings Cut several several pastry centre. Cut hole in in the the centre. shapes. Make Make aa hale top of them on on top and place them with aa fluted-edged pastry-cutter, and one egg. Brush with beaten egg. one another another round the hole. Brush Bake (15 perkg. kg. (15 minutes per 30 minutes allowing 30 Bake in in aa moderate oven, allowing moderate aven, minutes b.). Leave Whenitit pdtd to the mould. mould. When cool inin the per 1tb.). to cool minutes per Leave the the pâté isis just just warm, top, on top, pAft through the hole hole on through the the pâté warm, pour into into the warm someMadeiraMadeiraorsorne for sorne sometime; time;or to be be kept for wann lard lard ifit if it is to flavoured jelly (see (see ASPIC). flavoured aspic aspic jelly Tbe to their their according to ways,according The pdtis are are cut cut inin different different ways, shapes. slices, eut cut servedininslices, areserved in round round moulds moulds are shapes. Those made made in from shells, scallop shells, pdtds are servedininscallop areserved from top Bigger pâtés top to to bottom. bottom. Bigger

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PATELLA PATELLA When the pdtd isisquite the pâté quite cold, jelly(see poursorne cold, pour (see someaspic aspic jelly When ASPIC) based basedon gamefumet (q.v.) (q.v)into on aagamefumet intoit.it. ASPIC)

20kinds kindsoftarts, of tarts, 16 (q.v.),etc. l6kinds kindsof oftourtes tourtes(q.v.), etc. 20 yearswent As the the years wentby, by,numerous numerousdisagreements disagreementsarose arose As pastry-cooks,the between the thepastry-cooks, porkbutchers, thebakers bakers and andthe thepork butchers, between allaccusing accusing the theothers othersof oftrespassing oneach eachother's other'strades. trades. all trespassing on theseventeenth seventeenthcentury centurythe thebakers bakers added addedthe thesale saleof ofsmall small InInthe cakes to totheir their trade. pastry-cooks protested, trade.The Thepastry-cooks protested, started cakes started aa court case caseand and the the Lieutenant-General Lieutenant-General of ofPolice Policeissued issued an an court order forbidding forbidding the the master master bakers bakers to toencroach encroach on onthe trade order thetrade pastry-cooks. Later, of the the pastry-cooks. Later,another anotherdispute disputearose aroseinin conof connection with with Twelfth Twelfth Night Night cakes, cakes,which which the thebakers bakers were nection wereinin the habit habit of of oITering offering to toclients clientswho who brought brought their their bread the bread to tobe be baked inin their their ovens. ovens. They They were were forbidden forbidden toto do baked doso, so,but but neverthelesscontinued continued to tobake bake and andoITer nevertheless offerthese thesecakes. cakes. In In1794, 1794, however, the theTwelfth Twelfth Night Night cakes cakes aroused arousedthe thewrath wrath of however, of the the revolutionaries, who who seemed seemed to tosee revolutionaries, seemonarchist monarchist tendencies tendencies inin this custom, custom, and and they practiceto they ordered ordered the the practice tocease. cease. this But no no decree decree could could eradicate eradicateaa time-honoured But time-honoured tradition. tradition. The pastry-cooks pastry-cooks got got round round the theorder The order by by substituting substituting Liberty Liberty cakes for for Twelfth Twelfth Night Night cakes, cakes, complete complete with with Phrygian Phrygian cap cakes cap traced on on the the cake. cake. traced The main main dispute dispute between pastry-cooks and between the The the pastry-cooks pork and the the pork butchers, ending ending in in aa long long court court case, butchers, case, arose arose in in connection connection pie. This with aa ham ham pie. This was was aa ha ham, with m, cooked cooked as as usual usual and and enclosed enclosed pastry. The in pastry. pork butchers The pork butchers maintained maintained that in that as as the the crust crust did did not adhere adhere to to the the ham ham itit could could not not be pie. Only not be considered considered aa pie. Only raw ingredients ingredients enclosed pastry and enclosed in in pastry raw and cooked cooked at at the the same same time as pastry could as the the pastry be considered pies. The could be time considered as pork as pies. The pork butchers won won their their case. case. butchers From the the beginning beginning of From of the the nineteenth nineteenth century century French French pastry-making made great strides made great pastry-making strides forward forward with with Carême, Car6me, the the creator of of large large display pieces and display pieces creator and of of numerous numerous elements elements of of what is is called called'pdtisserie perfected the what 'pâtisserie de de main'. main'. He He perfected the existing existing cakes and and created created new cakes ch as new ones, ones, su such as the the croquembouche, croquembouche, mille-feuille, sultanes, sultanes, decorated mille-feuille, decorated with pulled sugar, with pulled sugar, etc. This etc. This was also also the the epoch great pâtissiers, epoch of pdtissiers, such was of great such as as Rouget, Rouget, Jacquet, Félix F6lix and Leblanc, Jacquet, and Lesage, Lesage, the the specialist specialist of of display display pieces. Later, Later, towards towards 1844, pieces. 1844, came came the the Julien Julien dynasty, dynasty, founfounofcake cake shops in ders of in the the Bourse, Bourse, Favart Favart and and boulevard des des prolific creators Italiens, prolific creators to whom whom we owe owe such such cakes cakes as as troistroisgorenflot, régent, savarin, gorenfiot, frères, rigent, richelieu richelieu and and Paris-pâté. Paris-pdtd. frires, savarin, Along with them, them, the cake shops shops of Bourbonneux, of Seugnot, Seugnot, Bourbonneux,

PATELLA. PATELLE eATELLE - - Name Nameapplied applied to gastropod to various various gastropod PATELLA. molluscs. They They are areunivalve, univalve, edible edible and and known known also alsoby bythe the molluscs. name of of limpets. limpefs. They They are are eaten eaten raw, raw,like like clams. clams. name pArrENcE PATIENCE DOCK. DOCK. PATIENCE Name of plants of of various various plants of PATIENCE ..- Name the genus, Rumex among patience, which them herb herb patience, which has hasaa the Rumex genus, among them bitter root, root, used used in in making making depurative depurative and and anti-scorbutic anti-scorbutic bitter decoctions. The The leaves leaves and petioles of and petioles ofthe the alpine alpine dock, dock,known known decoctions. also as as monk monk's rhubarb, are are eaten eaten in in the the Alps, Alps, the the Pyrenees Pyrenees 's rhubarb, also and in in the the Auvergne; Auvergne; they put inin soups they are are put soups and and cooked cooked as as aa and vegetable. Rhubarb Rhubarb sorrel, sorrel, which which was was already pot already known known as asaa pot vegetable. herb in in the the times times of of antiquity, antiquity, isis mentioned mentioned by by Horace. Horace. herb

PATISSERIE -- N Name for various preparations made various preparations made of of PÂTISSERIE ame for pastry, generally generally baked baked in in the the oyen. oven. The The term term also also applies applies to to pastry, the art art of pastry-cook, as of the the pastry-cook, as well well as place where as to to the the place where the pastries are are made made and and sold. sold. pastries The Greeks Greeks made pastry. Bourdeau, made pastry. Bourdeau, in in his his Histoire Histoire de de The l'Alimentatio,?, even even attributes attributes the the invention plum pudding invention of pudding of plum l'Alimentation, to the the Greeks. Greeks. to In the the Middle Middle Ages Ages in in France France the pastry-cooks were the pastry-cooks were called called In oubleyeurs, after after oublie, oublie, wafer wafer cooked cooked in in irons irons or gaufre or gaufre oubleyeurs, moulds, which which was was their product. their main main product. moulds, In 1268, 1268, Etienne Etienne Boileau Boileau in inhis Livre des des Métiers Mdtiers laid laid down down In his Livre rules and and statutes, statutes, and and fixed fixed the the duration duration of of the the apprenticeapprenticemIes ship, wages, wages, and and fines fines incurred incurred for for an an infraction infraction of of the the ship, statutes. The preamble stated The preamble 'Whoever wishes stated:: 'Whoever wishes to to become become an an statutes. oubleyeur in in the the city city of of Paris Paris may do so may do so freely freely and and openly, openly, oubleyeur provided he he knows knows the the trade, trade, has has the wherewithal and and keeps provided to the the usages usages and and customs customs of of the trade.' to These statutes statutes were were modified modified from from century century to to century, These embodying ever ever more more restrictive restrictive clauses. clauses. The The terms terms and and embodying conditions for obtaining obtaining the the Master's Master's certificate became became more more conditions for and more in favour favour of the Treasury Treasury and the King. of the and more in Rabelais his Pantagruel (Book 4, 4, Chapter Chapter 59) Rabelais in in his Pantagruel (Book enumerates of the the pastries pas tries which were in great vogue at enumerates some sorne of the such as as big gdteaux, carves, caryes, cassepuff pastry pastry gâteaux, the time, time, such big puff museaux caillebottes museaux (small (small cream cream buns), buns), brides brides àri veaux, veaux, caillebottes (curd quince pies, macaroons, quince pies, (curd cakes) cakes),, poupelins poupe lins ('baby ('baby dolls'), dolls'), macaroons,

AApastry-cook's pastry-cook'sshop shopinin the theeighteenth eighteenthcentury, cent ury, from from Diderot's Diderot's Ez Encyclopédie. Victuals can can be beseen seen hanging hanging from from the the ceiling; ceiling; there there isis also also the the butcher's butcher's block block cyclopidie. Victuals (No. (No. 8), 8),which which shows showshow how much much pastry-cooks pastry-cooks competed competed with with the the pork pork butchers butchers

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PAVE PAVÉ fish. (See Paupiettes Paupiettes can also be be made made from from fillets of offish. (See SOLE, SOLE, Paupiettes Paupielles of ofsole.) sole .) Paupiettes Paupiettes of of lamb ià la cr6ole. créole. pAUpIETTEs PAUPIETTES o'lcNr^au D'AGNEAU IÀ r,l. LA cn6on CRÉOLE -- Cut some sorne lamb taken from from the leg or or the shoulder into escalopes, flatten ftatten them well weil and spread with with aa Fine Fine pork pork forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed with with chopped chopped onion, on ion, forcemeat fried butter, with half half its weight of of sweet pimentos pimentos cut cut in in fried in butter, very very small small dice. Roll the escalopes into into paupiettes paupiettes and tie them them with with string. string. g. (4 (4 oz., Put into a saut6 sauté pan in which 100 g. oz., 1I cup) chopped softened in butter. Brown onion has been softened Brown the paupiettes paupiettes with with seeded and and chopped tomatoes. the onion.. Add the onion Add 2 peeled, peeled, seeded tomatoes. (q.v.), garni (q bouquet garni Season Season with salt and pepper pepper and add a bouquet .v.), a pinch of garlic and a small piece of lemon rind. rind. Cook Cook in in the oven, uncovered, oyen, uncovered, for 45 minutes. minutes. Drain the paupiettes. paupiettes. Arrange them on a dish. Garnish the RICE). Boil down d la créole crdole(see middle of ofthe the dish with Rice à (see RICE). juices, straîn, over the paupiettes. the pan strain, and pour panjuices, pour over paupiettes.

Quillet, Chiboust, Chiboust, Frascati, Frascati, Petit Petit vied vied with with each each other. These These Quillet, houses houses specialised specialised in in the the creation creation of of numerous numerous cakes, such as as bourdaloue, bourdaloue, saint-honord, saint-honoré, napolitain, napolitain, chdteaubriand, châteaubriand, cussy, cussy, (or Genoese Genoese cake) cake) and and many many others. others. ambroisie (or ambroisie

kind composed of sorne some kind PAVE describing a cold dish composed PA VÉ -- Term descrîbing in aa special square or set in frequently aa mousse, set of a mixture, frequently jelly and with and decorated decorated with rectangular with jelly mould, coated with rectangular mou Id, coated truffies, etc. etc. namepavd also applies to certain square cakes, made The name pavé also sandwiched with a butter cream, of Genoese or sponge sponge layers, sandwiched ofGenoese and to spice cake. pavf volxrlr ÀA L'ÉCARLATE r'EcARllre Pav6 ofchicken on VOLAlLLE i l'écarlate. l'6carlate. PA of chicken à Pavé VÉ DE flavoured aspic jelly ftavoured clear chicken chicken aspicjelly -- Coat a square mould with c1ear circlets ofpickled of pickled tongue, Madeira.. Line the mould with circlets with Madeira truffies,, and round round slivers slivers of of truIDes thin slices slices of breast and of chicken breast thin aspic jelly over. alternating the colours. Spoon Spoon a little aspicjelly alternating chicken mousse and and Fill the mou alternate layers of of chicken mould Fil! Id with alternate jelly. with aspic aspic jelly. tongue mousse, both mousses bound with pickled tongue of Cover with aa layer of slivers oftruffies of truffies between each layer. Coyer Put slivers jelly and pavd onto onto aa ice. Turn Turn out out the the pavé chicken aspic jelly and chilI chill on on ice. chicken decorated tongue, decorated dish and and surround surround with with slices slices of of pickled tongue, dish jelly. Garnish glazed with with with jelly. Garnish with with slivers slivers of of truffie truffie and and glazed with chopped jelly. choppedjelly. plvf This Pav6 offoie king. PA nu ROI, RoI, AU AU FOIE FoIE GRAS cRAS -- This of foie gras ài la king. Pavé VÉ DU generously studded pavd is composed goose liver, generously with studded with composed of fat goose of aa fat pavé (see DOUGH), paste (see rolled DOUGH), rolled lining paste in Fine Fine /ining truffles, enclosed in out in in aa circle circle and shaped into into aa crescent. crescent. Decorate Decorate with with and shaped out pie made gras pie made by by fleurs-de-lys cut It isis aa foie cut out out of of pastry. It fteurs-de-lys foie gras in aa mould. mould. instead ofbeing of being baked in hand instead jelly port-flavoured jelly pie isis cold pour in in sorne some port-flavoured When the cold pour the pie When (q.v.). (q.v.). plvi DE (cold). PAVÉ AUx gras with op FOIE FoIE GRAS GRAS AUX Pav6 of foie gras with truffies truffies (cold). of foie Pavé (q.v.) ftavoured flavoured with with sherry sherry TRUFFEs - Line Line aa mould mould withjelly with jelly (q.v.) TRUFFES(or other fill1 of truffies and and fi.! with slivers slivers oftruffles other liqueur liqueur wine), wine), decorate decorate with (or (see FOIE gras mousse slices of of foie FOIE GRAS) GRAS) and and slices with Foie Foie gras mousse (see with foie gras and putting them into the in alternate alternate mould in and truffies, them into the mould truffies, putting gras ice. Turn Turn out out onto onto layers. Coyer layer of ofjelly. Chill on on ice. Cover with with aa layer layers. jelly. Chili garnish with with choppedjelly. serving dish dish and chopped jelly. and garnish aa serving plv6 DE game ài la pheasant or Pav6 of la Saint-Hubert. Saint-Hubert. PAVÉ on or other other game of pheasant Pavé rectangular FAISAN À n LA Make in in aa square square or or rectangular ra SAlNT-HUBERT S,c.INT-HUBERT -- Make FAlSAN game mousse, pheasant or mousse, slices slices of mould, of the the using pheasant or other other game mou Id, using prepared as game and as dedeappropriate game slivers of of truffles, truffles, prepared and slivers appropriate gras with with truffies. truffies. scribed in in the the recipe recipe for for Pavé Pavd offoie offoie gras scribed pAVf DE Pav6 of la Nantua. Nantua. PAVÉ DE SAUMON sAUMoN ÀA LA r,c. NANTUANA,NTUA salmon ài la of salmon Pavé jelly (see (see JELL fish aspic JELLY, Fisi Coat aa square square mou mould with fish aspic jelly Coat Id with Y, Fish jelly stock), in Chaud-froid stock), decorate with crayfish crayfish tails tails dipped dipped in Chaud-froid decorate with je//y (see SAUCE), and fill fill sauce àd la la Nantua Nantua (see SAUCE), and and slivers slivers oftrufftes, of truffles, and sauce (see FISH, bound with with salmon mousse mousse (see FISH, Fish Fish mousse) mousse) bound with salmon with aspicjelly. aspic jelly. Turn layer of and chili chill on on ice. ice. Turn Cover the mousse with with aalayer ofjelly Coyer jelly and the mousse blind with little little barquettes barquettes baked baked blind out onto onto aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with out with the sauce and and tails, covered covered with filled with the sauce and filled with more more crayfish crayfish tails, and jelly between jelly. Put between each each tartlet. tartlet. with jelly. Put chopped chopped jelly glazed $azed with

(C/aire) Little Russian Russian patties (Claire)

Twelftb Night cake -- A decorated Twelfth cake which used to be decorated cake Feast of the Epiphany eaten on the Feast Epiphany (6 January). Usually a years,aa silver coin) was baked baked in the cake cake.. bean (or, in later years, The pers on getting this at the Twelfth Night feast getting this feast was Twelfth Night The person at the accepted as King for the occasion. occasion. PÂTISSltRE of PATISSIDRE (Noix) -- Culinary term for the chump end of fillet. It is sometimes the loin of veal, which is situated in the fillet. called round ofveal.

pastry-cook's young PATRONNET PATRONNET -- French name for for aa pastry-cook's French name apprentice. apprentice. pAr6s prrlrs PÂTÉS pErlrs PÂTÉS pAr6s -- SmaU patties. PETITS PATTIES. hot patties. PATTIES. PETITS Small hot patties are the hot patties indicates, small small hot - As their name indicates, pdtds. They pies and diminutive They are are and pâtés. diminutive versions entrde pies versions of big hot entrée served served as hors-d'œuvre and as small small entrées entrdes.. hors-d'euvre and 'Small patties,' said Carême, patties,'said 'are perfect only only when when eaten eaten Car0me, 'are get cold straight out of the oyen. to get are cold and and are If they are allowed allowedto oven. Ifthey quality.' then reheated, they lose sorne some oftheir of their quality.' Paris In days gone by patties used to be sold in the streets streets of of Paris sold in 'Piping hot! to the accompaniment of Piping hot!' hot !' hot ! Piping cry: 'Piping of the cry: patty filled Sorne filled with with still sel! sell aa patty Some bakers bakers and and caterers caterers still sausage (q.v.) of pork, known asfriands asfriands.. sausage meat or or aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of pork, (q.v.), various In In the to hot hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre (q.v.), the section section devoted devoted to recipes found. recipes for for the preparation of of patties will be found. pArfs ÀA LA pErlrs PÂTÉS Little Russian These are are LA RUSSE patties. PETITS RUssE -- These Russian patties. served made of of Puff Puff and are are made served as as an to soup, soup, and an accompaniment accompaniment to pastry (see DOUGH). pastry or They are are DOUGH). They Brioche dough dough (see common Brioche or common filled various fish fish forceforcefilled with especially various with various various mixtures, mixtures, especially meats, salmon. meats, principally salmon. CHAUDS cHAUDs -

PAUCHOUSEPAUCHOUSE - See POCHOUSE. See POCHOUSE. PAUILLAC Gironde of Gironde PAUILLAC -- Commune the département ddpartement of Commune of of the (See where lambs are are raised. raised. (See where the Pauillac milk-fed milk-fed lambs the famous famous Pauillac LAMB.) LAMB.) PAUNCH (Belly). ESTOMAC PAUNCH (BeUy). EsroMAc MEATS. MEATS.

VARIETY or VARIETY See OFFAL OFFAL or - See

-

PAUPIETTES stuffed meat stufTed PAUPIETTES -- Thin Thin slices slices of of beef beef or or other other meat (the shape with paupietles (the shape of of big big with sorne some forcemeat, rolled ioto into paupiettes forcemeat, rolled corks) in very very and braised braised in corks) wrapped rasher of bacon and wrapped in in aa thin thin rasher of bacon little garnish. vegetable garnish. little liquid. with aa vegetable liquid. Paupiettes are served served with Paupiettes are (See (See BEEF, beef.) BEEF, Paupiettes Paupiettes of of beef)

675 67s

PAVE DE DE MOYAUX MOYAUX PAVÉ pavns DE Pav6s of of soles soles or or other other fish. fish. PAVÉS DE SOLES Prepare soI,Es -- Prepare Pavés as Pavé Pavi ofsalmon (see FISH, of salmon using using sole sole mousse mousse (see FISH, Fish Fish mousse), mousse), as fillets of of sole, sole, cooked cooked in in white white wine wine and and weil well drained, drained, and and fillets slivers of of truffies. truffies. slivers pavis are These pavés are decorated decorated with with truffies, truffies, slices slices of hardof hardThese boiled egg yolks, blanched egg yolks, blanched tarragon tarragon or or chervil chervil leaves, leaves, lobster lobster boiled coral, etc. etc. coral, garnished, in They can can be be garnished, in addition addition to fillets of to fillets soles a.nd of soles and They trufres, with with slices slices of of Iobster lobster or or spiny spiny lobster, lobster, crayfish crayfish tails, tails, truffies, well-dried, poached poached oysters, glazed with oysters, and (q.v.). and glazed with aspicjelly aspicjelly (q.v.). well-dried,

pETrrsPAVÉS pl,vfs DE Smallsemolina semolina pavés. paves.PETITS nr SEMOULE sEMouLE- - Prepare Prepare SmalJ like Small pavis,using Smallrice rice pavés, sweetened, cooked cookedsemolina. semolina. like using sweetened, Pavds can can be beendlessly endlessly varied varied by by spreading spreadingwith with various various Pavés jams,stewed stewed fruit fruitand (q.v.),asaswell and salpicons salpicons (q.v.), wellasasvariously jams, variously flavoured French French pastry pastry cream (seeCREAMS). ueam (see CREAMS). flavoured

PAVE DE DE MOYAUX MOYAUX -_See SCC CHEESE. CHEESE. PAVÉ PAVIE Firm-fleshed peach, peach,similar similar to toaaclingstone, clingstone, with PA VIE -- Firm-fleshed with the the pulp adhering adhering to to the the stone. stone. pulp PAYSANNE (A LA) LA) -- Method Method of preparing butcher's of preparing butcher's meat PA YSANNE (À meat poultry, usually and poultry, usually braised garnish of braised and and accompanied accompanied by by aagarnish and of carrots, turnips, turnips, onions onions and and celery celery sliced sliced and carrots, andlightly lightly cooked cooked in butter, pieces ofscalded butter, pieces ofscalded and and fried fried lean potatoes lean bacon, bacon, and in and potatoes cut down down to to aa uniform uniform small smallsize. size. cut

pA,vfs D'ENTREMETS: SWEET PAVÉS. PAVES. PAVÉS D'ENTREtrErs : SWEET

pav6. PAVÉ Chocolete pavé. ravf AU AU CHOCOLAT cHocoI.lr -- Sandwich Sandwich Genoese Genoese Chocolate or chocolate chocolate sponge sponge layers layers together together with with chocolate chocolate Butter Butter or (see CREAMS). cream (see CREAMS). Trim Trim the giving itit aa square the sandwich, sandwich, giving square cream shape. Ice Ice with with Chocolate (see ICING). Chocolate icing icing (see ICING). shape. As in in the the case case of of ail all cakes cakes filled filled wi with pavds butter cream, cream,the As th butter the pavés should be put in be put in the the ice ice box box to to al10w allow the the cream cream to to set. set. should pav6. PAVÉ Cofiee pavé. r.tvf AU AU MOKA Prepare as MoKA -- Prepare pavd, as Chocolate Chocolate pavé, Coflee using cotTee (see CREA coffee Butter Butter cre cream CREAMS) and CofJee Coffee icing icing using am (see MS) and (see ICING). ICING). (see pr,vf AUX pav6. PAVÉ Fruit pavé. lux FRUITS FRUrrs -- Spread Spread Genoese Genoese sponge sponge Fruit layers with with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured Butter (see CREAMS), Butter cream ueam (see CREAMS), layers putting aa layer layer of ofvarious fruit, cooked cooked in in syrup, syrup, weil well drained drained putting various fruit, and chopped chopped into (q.v.), on into aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.), on the the cream. cream. Sandwich Sandwich and the layers layers of pressing down of cake, pressing down to to make them adhere. Trim adhere. Trim the the cake give itit an cake to to give an even, even, square square shape. shape. lce Ice with with kirschkirschthe flavoured Fondant (see ICING). Fondant icing icing (see ICING). Decorate Decorate with with flavoured crystallised fruit, fruit, angelica lozenges and almonds. almonds. crystallised Hazelnut pavé. pav6. PAVÉ r,lv6 AUX AUx NOISETTES NorsETTns -- Prepare as as Chocolate Chocolate Hazelnut pavi,usingburnt (see CREAMS) and and pavé, using burnt hazelnut Butter cream (see kirsch-fl avoured icing. icin g. kirsch-flavoured plvf AU pn trwn -- Prepare as Praline pav6. au PRALINE pavd, as Chocolate Chocolate pavé, Praline pavé. PAVÉ using kirsch-flavoured icing. burnt almond butter cream and kirsch-flavoured using burnt prnrs PAVÉS p,lvfs DE Small rice rice paves i la c6venole. PETITS nn RIZ nrz ÀL LA re SmalJ pavés à la cévenole. cEvENoLE -- Prepare Prepare the the pavis as described in in the recipe for for CÉVENOLE pavés as Small rice rice pavds (see below), below), using pur6e of using aa purée Small pavés with fruit fruit (see marrons glacds vanilla-flavoured Chestnut or vanilla-flavoured (see Chestnut purde marrons glacés or purée (see CHESTNUTS). Deep-fry and arrange arrange in a pyramid. CHESTNUTS). plvfs DE Small cr6ole. pETrrs os RIZ Rrz A rA, Small rice rice pav6s pavés àd la la créole. PETITS PAVÉS À LA cniors Spread the pavds, as described described below, pavés, prepared as CRÉOLE - Spread with (q.v.) of pineapple cooked in in syrup, cut in in with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) very stewed apricots. Deep-fry and and very small small dice dice and bound with stewed arrdnge arrange in in a pyramid. pyramid. Small FRUrrs Small rice rice paves pavés with fruit. pErrrs PETITS p.lvfs PAVÉS oE DE Rrz RIZ AUx AUX FRUITSCook Spread it it on on a Cook 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., *i cup) cup) sweetened rice. rice. Spread buttered pan Cover the surface pan in a layer I1 cm (i @ inch) thick. Coyer with with a little IittIe butter to prevent a crust forming, and leave to cool. Turn Turn out out the the rice rice and and cut cut into into an an even even number number of rectangular (2t rectangular pieces, pieces, 44 cm. (l! (l i inches) inches) wide wide and about 6 cm. (2i inches) inches) long. Spread Spread half half of of these these rectangles rectangles on one side side with aa layer ofstewed of stewed fruit: fruit: apricots, apricots, chestnuts, chestnuts, peaches, apples, or or any any other. other. Cover Coyer the remaining remaining rectangles rectangles with rice, then dip dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, and and shape shape the the pieces pieces into straight-sided straight-sided pavis. pavés. Deepfry Deep-fry in in smoking smoking hot hot fat, fat, drain, arrange in i~ a pyramid p.yramid on on aa dish dish and and serve serve with with aa fruit fruit sauce, sauce, flavoured flavoured with wlth kirsch kirsch or any any other other liqueur. liqueur. , Small la normande. normande. penrs PETITS p,lvfs PAVÉS os DE Rrz RIZ A A rA. LA Small rice rice pav6s pavés ià la NoRMANDE NORMANDE -- Spread Spread the the pavis, pavés, prepared prepared as as described described above, above, with with stewed stewed apples. apples. Fry Fry and and arrange arrange in in aa pyramid. pyramid. Small SmalJ rice rice pav6s pavés Pompadour. Pompadour. pETrrs PETITS plvfs PAVÉS DE DE rttz RIZ poMpADoIJR POMPADOUR -- Spread Spread the thepavis, pavés, prepared prepared as as described described above, above, with of crystallised crystallised fruit, fruit, cut cut in in very very small smalI with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of dice dice and and bound bound with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of rum-flavoured rum-flavoured French French pastry pastry crearn cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Fry Fry and and arrange arrange in in aa pyramid. pyramid.

Fresh peas peas (Claire) (C/aire) Fresh

pors - Plant PEA. POIS PEA. thought by by sorne some to have originated originated in in to have - Plant thought western Asia and been pea. According derived from from the wild been derived wild pea. According to whether the pod is to parchmentJined, peas the pod is tender peas are tender or or parchment-lined, are classified as (also called classified as edible-podded (also peas) or sugar peas) as called sugar or as peas. They shelling peas. They can can be be either either tall tall or or dwarf. dwarf. The The most most esteemed French varieties, esteemed varieties, which which are 'green', before are eaten eaten 'green', before they reach complete maturity, when when they are pois are still still petits pois (small peas), are arc pois de de Clamart and and pois Michaux. The The late late varieties are preserved by means of varieties of drying. Whole dried dried peas, of greyish yellow colour, are preferred ofgreyish preferred in France France to split peas, which are of of a greyish green colour. Cultivated Cultivated by the Hebrews, Hebrews, Persians, Greeks and later the Romans, peas are now found throughout most of the world. Romans, world. This vegetable very rich in nitrogen and mucilage, vegetable is very mucilage, contains a strong proportion of oxalic pleasant taste oxalic acid acid and has aa pleasant and has that of of chestnuts. recalling that chestnuts. are very very nutritious, nutritious, rich in protein, protein, but hard to Shelled peas are The peas should shouId be be well weil cooked, digest. The if possible, served cooked, and if purées or soups. mixed with other vegetables in stews, pur6es mixed best of the the 'mange-tout' variety (the (the edible-podded The best pea) are Corne de de bdlier bélier and Carouby. Carouby. . 'petit pois'are Shelling peas peas or 'petit pois' are divided into two categorIes Shelling categories pea is is round round or wrinkled. Sorne depending upon whether the pea depending Some of the best best known known round round varieties are: large-podded Express, Express, ofthe are large-podded The wrinkled wrinkl~d varieties varieti~s Express Alaska, Alaska, Petit Petit Provengal. Provençal. The Express include:: Tiliphone, Téléphone, M Merveille d'Amérique, Centurion, Progris Progres include erveille d' Amirique, Centurion, de Laxton.etc. Laxton, etc. de

FRESH GARDEN GARDEN PEAS. pors POIS FRArs FRAISFRESH Boiled peas. peas. pETrrs PETITS pors POIS ,i, À L'ANcLArsE L'ANGLAISE Boiled 676

--

Cook the peas in

PEACH PEACH mint mint for for the the fennel. fennd. Serve Serve the the peas peas in in aa timbale, timbale, dress dress with with

boiling boilîng salted salted water waler as as quickly quickly as as possible, possible. keeping keeping the the

butter buttcr and and put put scalded scalded mint mint leaves leaves on on top. top. Peas Peas ià la la paysanne. pETITs PETITS pols POIS A À LA LA PAYsANNE PAYSANNE -- Prepare, Prepare, using using big big fresh garden garden peas, peas, like like Peas Peas dà Ia la frangaise, françaÎse, with with coarsely coarsely shredded shredded lettuce letluce and and onions onions cut eut in in quarters. quarters. When When 25 the the peas peas are are cooked, cooked, mix mix with with kneaded kneaded butter, butter, allowing allowing 25 g. g. (l(1 o2.,2 g.(* oz., 2 tablespoons) butter butter and and l0 lOg. Ci o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour flour per per litre litre (l| (1 pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) ofpeas. of peas. Peas Peas dà la la paysanne paysanne are are often often called called dà la la bonne bonnefemme. femme. punfn DE Pw6e Purée of of fresh fresh garden garden peas, peas, called caUro Saint-Germain. Saint-Germain. PURÉE. os pols POIS FRAIs, fRAlS, DITE D1TE SAINT-cERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN -- Cook Cook large peas as as dedescribed scribed in in the the recipe recipe for for Peas Peas d à la la frangaise, française. drain, and rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat Heat this this pur6e purée and and add add the the liquor liquor left left from from cooking cooking the tbe peas, boiled boiled down down and and strained. strained. Blend Blend in in fresh fresh butter, butter, allowing 100 100 g. (4 (4 oz.,1 oz,) t cup) per per litre litre (lf 01 pints, pints, generous generous "up) quart) quart) ofpur6e. This This pur6e purée can can also also be be made made using using peas peas boiled boiled in in salted salted water water and and well well drained. drained.

saucepan SaUICejJan uncovered. uncovered. Drain and and dry dry off off by by tossing toss(ng them them in in aa saucepan saucepan on on the the stove. stove. Serve Serve with with fresh fresh butter. butter. Peas Peas iIl la la bonne bonne femme. femme. pETtrs PETITS pols POIS iÀ LA LA BoNNs BONNE FEIVTME FEMMEMelt - Melt some some butter butter in in aa saucepan saucepan and and in in it il brown brown lightly [ightly 12 12 small small onions onlons (new, (new, when when in in season) season) and 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,* oz.,! c,tp) cup) diced, diced, scalded scalded lean lean bacon. bacon. Remove Remove the the onions onions and and bacon bacon from from the the pan. pan. Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour flour to 10 the the butter butter and and cook cook for aa few few minutes, minutes, stirring stirring with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Dilute Dilute with with 22 dl. dl. $ (j pint, pint, scant scanl cup) cup) white white stock. Boil Boil for for 55 minutes. minutes. Put Put I1 litre litre (lf (li pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) fresh fresh garden garden peas peas into into this this sauce, sauce, add add the the onions, bacon bacon and a bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.), (q.v.), and and simmer simmer with with aa lid lid on. Peas Peas in butter. butter. pETITs PETITS pols POIS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE - Cook Cook the the peas peas in in salted salted boiling boiling water. water. Drain Drain them and dry off otT by tossing 10ssÎng in in aa saucepan ""UI""'-I.JCl.ll on brisk brisk heat. heat. Season Season with with a pinch piDch ofcastor of castor (fine) (fine) sugar. Dress with fresh fresh butter cut eut in in tiny pieces, pieces, allowing allowing pints, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz,, oz .. 1 cup) butter butter per per litre litre (lt ( pints, generous * ".rp) quart) peas. quart) shelled garden peas. Peas ià la crime. pETITs PETITS pols POlS A À rl LA cRiMs CRÈME - Boil Boil the peas peas in in water, drain, drain, and toss in a pan on heat for for a few moments to dry off. off. Cover COYer with wilh boiling fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer until until the liquid 1iq uid is boiled down by by half hal f and season with with salt and aa pinch pinch cream, of of sugar. sugar. Add 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh cream, blend blend well, weil, and serve serve in a timbale. timbale. Peas Peas with witb fennel. fenne!. pErITs PETITS pols POlS AU FENoUIL FENOUJl -- Boil Boil the peas in in with aa fennel tied with of fresh salted water salted warer with wiLh aa good bunch of fresh fennel add I1 tablespoon and add string. Drain, Drain, dress dress with strîng. with butter butter and chopped fenne!. fennel. Serve Serve in a timbale. chopped poIs.i,À LA pETIrs POIS rl, rrnrraGRs Peas iIl la fermiire. fermière. PETITS FERMIÈRE -- Cook 500 g. (18 oz.) smalt described as rI=e~r, th l2 12 small onions, as .... =" with small new carrots wi CARROTS). When the in the recipe Glazed carrots (see CARROTS). recipe for Glaud (scant lt pints, pan 8 dl. dl. (seant add to the pan carrots are half-cooked half-cooked add garden peas, peas, JI head head of lettuce scant 2 pints) freshly shelled garden seant garni julienne (q. (q.v.) and aa bouquet garni shredded into into aa coarse julienne ,,,,,'-"'.,'-'" Il.) and and'sugar. parsley and chervil. Season with salt and Season with composed of parsley composed sugar. (3 tablespoons) water. Simmer Simmer tablespoons) water. Moisten wÎth with 22 tablespoons Moisten tablespoons (3 serving. before serving. on. Add butter before with the lid on, pots À into aa Putt into LA FRANÇA1SE FRANQAIsr .. A LA PErIrs POIS Peas Ili la frangaise. PEnTS - Pu garden quart) fresh garden (lf pînlS, pints, generous quart) large saucepan 1I litre (Ii (q.v.), 12 12 peas, 1I lettuce chffinnade (q.v.), lettuce heart heart shredded shredded into aa chiffonnade peas, garnf composed of composed of in season), season) , aa bouquet bouquet garni small onions (new, if in small (a OZ., teaspoons parsley and chervil, cup) butter, butter, lI teaspoons oz., I cup) chervil, 100 g. (4 Mix well. g.0 sugar. Mix 25 g, oz.,2tablespoons) salt and and 25 salt (1 OZ., 2 sugar. Bring (scant f to cold water. water. Bring to tt cup) cup) cold tablespoons (seant Add 3 to to 4 tablespoons Add peas gently with the !id lid on. When the peas on. When then simmer simmer gently to the boil then pan off garni, takè the the pan off (he take the bouquet garni, are cooked, cooked, remove remove the the bouquet are serve in in Mix and and serve fresh butter. butter. Mix stove and and add add 33 or or 44 teaspoons fresh stove aatimbale. timbale. AU JAMBON PoIs AU JAMBoN (Languedoc cookery). PETITS l'OlS cookery). PETITS Peas wllh with barn ham (Languedoc Peas with brown with and brown onion into into quarters and Cut lI medium-sized medium-sized onion -- Cut Add lI (not smoked) ham in butter. butter. Add (4 oz.) ham in g. (4 100 g. raw (not oz.) lean, lean, raw 100 pan. Toss Toss peas to (1| pînts, quart) garden garden peas to the the pan. pints, generous generous quart) litre Oi litre flour and and in JI tabJespoon tablespoon Rour them lightly lightly in in the butter, sprinkle sprinkle in the butter, them pint, lt lf cups) cups) dl. (t with 33 dl. Moisten with cook for for aa few few minutes. minutes. Moisten cook $ pint, garni bouquet garnÎ small bouquet add aa small salt and and sugar, sugar, add water, season season with with salt water, Remove minutes. Remove (q.v.) and 45 to to 50 50 mÎnutes. from 45 covered, from and simmcr, simmer, covered, (q.v.) garni and serve in in aa timbale. timbale. the bouquel bouquet garni and serve the pols AUX psrlts POlS Peas Prepare as Peas LAIruns -- Prepa with leltuce. AUx LAITUES Peas wlth lettuce. PETITS Peas re as small the 5mall and omittÎng omitting the lettuce heads heads and tied lettuce lafrangaise, using using tied àd lafrançaise, onions. onions. into and eut cut into lettuces and peas are drain the the leHuces When the are cooked, cooked, drain the peas When fresh butter butter peas. Finish with fresh quarters. Put Finish otT off with the peas. Put these on the these on quarters. and serve serve in in aa timbale. timbale. and pprlrs POIS pols ÀA LA as Proceed as urNrrm -- Proeeed ra MENTHE Peas willl with mini. mint. PETITS Peas fresh substituting fresh withfennel, SubSliluting for Peas Peas withfennel, described În in the the recipe recipe for described

DRIED D RIED PEAS. PEAS. pols POIS srcs SECS - Three Three kinds kinds of of dried dried peas peas are are used used

in in the the kitchen: kitchen: split split peas, peas, yellow yellow peas peas and and chick-peas. cbick-peas. Yellow Yellow peas peas are are used used only only in in some sorne parts paris of of eastern eastern France France as as a pur6e. purée. This This is is often often served served in in Germany Germany as as an an accompaniment sauerkraut. Yellow ment to to sauerkraU/. Yellow peas peas can can also also be be cooked cooked in the same dried white same manner manner as as dried white beans. beans. of the Chick-peas, dried whole, Chick-peas, dried whole, come come from from a a plant plant of the family family or called pois Leguminosae, u)?un'lin,osQ'e, which which in in France France is is also also called pois chiche chiche or pois cornu. cornu. served commonly used Split peas are more peas are more commonly used in in France, France, served mainly as as a a pur6e. purée. soften in water split peas Soak the To cook split peas. To cook split peas. Soak the split peas in water to la softeo them. them. allowing l| water, altowing and cover cover with Put them into toto aa saucepan and wÎ{h water, li peas. (18 oz.) g. (18 per 500 split peas. oz.) split (2f pints, 500 g. litres 3| pints) litres (2~piots, 3! pînts) water water per (q.v.) composed of composed of mirepoix (q.v.) and aa coarse coarse mirepoix Add 1I ham knuckle knuckle and Add (3 OZ., g. (3 scant t+ cup) oz, seant and 75 75 g. onion and carrot, Il medium-sized medium-sized onion 1I carrot, in large large dice dice and cut in ingredients eut all these these Ingredients scalded lean lean bacon scalded bacon -- all bay garnf ofparsley, thyme, bay of parsley, thyme, bouquet garni Add aa bouquet softened in in butter. softened butter. Add and to the the boil boil and green part of31eeks. bring to Season, bring of 3 leeks. Season, leaf and the the green leafand A few few lcaves leaves l| hours. hours. A for about about 11gently with the lid on on for the lid simmer genlly simmer garnish. as aa garnish. can also also be be added added as oflettuce can oflettuce pols CASSÉS punfs DE peas split peas Cook the the split pea purée. pur6e. PURÉE cAssfs -- Cook DE POIS Split ~1lI Split pur6e, Heat the the purée, sieve. Heat rub through through aa sieve. and rub as described described above above and as few tablespoons tablespoons with aa few Dilute with wooden spoon. spoon. Dilute stirring with with aa wooden peas, Slrained through strained tbrough the peas, from cookîng cooking the left over over from of the liquid !eft add serving, add before serving, heat and, and,just Take off offthe fine strainer. strainer. Take aa fine the heat Just before

butter. butter.

garnish, aa few few vegetable or garnish, If this pur6e is served as a .""' .... ,,,,,, .... or it. to il. tablespoons offresh cream can be added to PoIs CASSÉS css6s pur6e sux PoTAGE DE DE POIS crottons. POTAGE aux croûtons. Sptit pea soup or or purée and above and peas, cooked as described described above cooked as split peas, Soup made made of split -- Soup Pur6e (See SOUPS BROTHS, Purée AND BROTHS, SOUPS AND rubbed through sieve. (See through aa sieve. rubbed pea soup.) of split split pea soup.) of PoIs MANGE-TOUT, MANcE-rour, PEAS. POIS SUGAR PEAS. EDIBLE-PODDED or or SUGAR EDIBLE-PODDED pRINcEssEs -- These pods of no peas the which have have no of which the pods These are are peas PRINCESSES pod and and seed, pod be eaten eaten seed, parchment lining; they can can Iherefore therefore be lining; they

all. pieces. Cook them Cook them in 22 or or 33 pieces, pods and break in and break Top and and tail tail the the pods Top peas. garden peas. for fresh fresh garden above for recommended above in any any way way recommended in p6cnn -- The peach tree, tree, one one fruit of of the the peach peach isis the the fruit The peach PEACH. PÎlCI-Œ PEACH. Persia in Persia have originaled originated in said to to have family. ltIt isis said of the the Rosaceae family. of fruits. of French French fruils. most attractive attractive of the best best and and most and isis one one of of the and whitecategories: whitemain categories: into Iwo two main be divided divided inlo Peaches can can be Peaches (in order of are (in order of known are peaches, of best known the best fleshed peaches, which the of which fleshed Amsden; Charles Charles May Flower; Flower; Amsden; maturity): Madeleine Madeleine POl/yet; Pouyet; May maturity): peaches often yellow-fleshed peaches often Roux; and and yellow-fteshed Ingouf; Charles Charles Roux; lngouf; 677 677

PEACH PEACH juicyflesh, with purple, purple, white whitejuicy flesh,very verymelting meltingand andsweet; sweet;Reine Reine with des vergers, vergers,big bigslightly slightlyelongated elongated fruit, fruit,crimson-purplish crimson-purplish des flush, white whiteflesh, flesh,slightly pink next slightly pink nextstone, meltingand stone,melting andsweet; sweet; flush, yellow or Admirable yellow peach,aaround orApricot Apricotpeach, roundfruit, fruit,with Admirable withorange orange yellowskin, tinted yellow good whitejuicy skin, very verygood white juicy flesh; flesh;Venus's Venus'sbreast, tinted breast, round fruit big round fruit with with aanipple nippleon onthe thetop, top,crimson crimsonflush, flush, rat big ber rather fine, semi-melting semi-meltingflesh, quitegood good ininflavour. flesh,guite flavour. fine, ptcnes BOURDALOUE Peaches Bourdaloue. Bourdaloue. PÊCHES BouRDALour - - Halve Peaches Halvethe the peaches, peel peeland poach inin vanilla-flavoured and poach vanilla-flavouredsyrup. peaches, syrup.Drain Drain and dry dry them. them. Arrange Arrange inin aaflan flan case, and case, baked bakedblind, blind,on onaa foundation of of Frangipane (seeCREAMS), Frangipane cream cream(see foundation CREAMS), not not too too thick and and mixed mixedwith crushed macaroons. peaches with crushed macaroons.Coyer thick Coverthe thepeaches with aa layer layer of of the the same same cream. cream. Sprinkle with with crushed Sprinkle with crushed macaroonsand and aalittle little melted quickly ininthe glazeguickly melted butter butterand macaroons and,glaze the oven. oyen. This dessert dessert can can be without covering peaches be made made without This covering the thepeaches with frangipane frangipane cream. cream. They They should with should be be decorated decorated with with crystallised cherries, cherries, lozenges lozenges of crystallised of angelica angelica and and halved halved alalmonds. The The flan flan case case can monds. can be be filled filled with with sweetened sweetenedsemolina, semolina. bound with with eggs eggsand and butter bound butter and and flavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) AA salpicon of crystallised crystallised fruit, fruit, steeped steepedinin sorne some liqueur, can can be be added added to ligueur, to either eitherof of the the above above compositions. compositions. pf;crns ÀA L'EAU-DE-VIE Peaches in in brandy. brandy. PÊCHES Peaches r'r^e,u-or-vrn -- Prepare Prepare Iike like Apricot comfits (see APRICOT). comfits in in brandy Apricot APRICOT). brandy (see p6csrs RAFRAÎCHIES peaches with Chilled peaches Chilled with raspberries. raspberries. PÊCHES nerneicnrEs AUX AUx FRAMBoISES -- Poach FRAMBOISES Poach choice peaches in choice peaches in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. Chili Chill on syrup. on ice. ice. Just Just before before serving serving arrange in aafruit arrange in fruit dish, dish, pur6e offresh cover with with aa purée coyer of fresh raspberries raspberries diluted diluted with with aa little little of of the syrup in which peaches were syrup in the which the the peaches were cooked, cooked, boiled boiled down down and and laced with laced kirsch. Scatter with aa few few drops drops of ofkirsch. Scatter fresh fresh raspberries raspberries on on top. top. pEcnns COLBERT Peaches Colbert. Peaches Using Colbert. PÈCHES coLBERr Using halved halved peaches, poached poached in peaches, in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, prepare like syrup, prepare like (see APRICOT). Colbert Colbert apricots apricots (see APRICOT). p6cnrs -- Plunge Compote Compote of peaches. COMPOTE of peaches. coMporE DE on PÊCHES Plunge the the peaches into peaches into boiling boiling water water for for aa moment moment then peel imthen peel immediately. mediately. Poach Poach them, them, whole whole or or halved, halved, in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured (see SUGAR). 18° 18" syrup syrup (see SUGAR). Serve Serve hot or or cold. cold. pEcrfis CONDÉ Peaches Condé. Peaches Cond6. PÊCHES coNof -- Poach peaches in Poach halved halved peaches in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. Prepare Prepare like (see like Apricots Apricots condé condd (see APRICOT). APRTCOT). Peach Peach coupe coupe -- See See ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. pf;cnrs -- Cook Peach Peach croûte. cro0te. CROÛTE cRoOrE AUX nux PÊCHES Cook halved halved or or quartered peaches guartered peaches in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, syrup, drain drain and and prepare as prepare as described described in in the recipe for the recipe for Apricot (see Apricot croûte crofrte (see APRICOT). APRTCOT). pEclrns CONFITES Crystallised peaches. peaches. PÊCHES coNFrrEs -- Prepare Prepare Iike like CrysCrystallised tallised apricots (see APRICOT). apricols (see pEcHss FLAMBÉES Peach Peach flambé flambe Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin. PÊCHES rr^c.usEns BR1LLATBRTLLATSAVARIN SAVARIN -- Prepare Prepare as as many many littJe (q.v.) (crownlittle savarins (crownsavarins (g.v.) shaped) as big peaches. as you have halves of peaches. ofbig Arrange Arrange the the savarins, soaked soaked in in syrup, syrup, in in aa circle circle on on an an ovenproof dish. Put into each ovenproofdish. each savarin savarin 1I tablespoon tablespoon very thick very thick pastry cream (see French pastry (see CREAMS), mixed mixed with with aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of crystallised fruit, steeped steeped in in kirsch kirsch or or maraschino. maraschino. Poach the halved Poach peaches in halved and and peeled peaches in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. them. Arrange on syrup. Drain and dry them. on the the savarins. savarins. Sprinkle Sprinkle with crushed crushed macaroons macaroons and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown lightly in the oyen. oven. Before serving, serving, sprinkle sprinkle with with kirsch kirsch and and set alight. alight. Serve Serve with with apricot apricot sauce, sauce, made made by by diluting diluting apricot apricot jam jam with with the syrup the peaches peaches were syrup in which the were cooked, cooked, heating heating straining. it and straining. flambé au au kirsch. ptcnrs PÊCHES FLAMBÉES Peach flamb6 ru^e.Msfes AU AU KIRSCH Peel KrRscH -- Peel the peaches peaches and and poach poach them them in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. the syrup. Drain, and and arrange arrange in in a a dessert Drain, dessert dish. Pour over dish. Pour over aa few few tablespoons of of the the syrup syrup in in which they were tablespoons which they were cooked, cooked, thickened with with arrowroot. arrowroot. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with heated heated kirsch, thickened kirsch,

Peaches (painting (painting by w. W. Volker) Volker) Peaches

wrongly called 'apricot peaches'. peaches'. Yellow-fleshed called 'apricot peaches Yellow-fleshed peaches wrongly generally mature later than the white-fleshed white-fleshed variety variety and are and are generally less aromatic. However, the theyy are larger, stand stand up better up much much better less to pleasant to are more more pleasant to the the eye, eye, being being more more to transport, transport, are attractively coloured, and good preserving preserving fruits. and make make good fruits. attractively coloured, Moreover, they grow grow more rapidly than than their their white-fleshed white-fleshed Moreover, yellow-fleshed counvarieties of yellow-fleshed councounterparts. The principal principal varieties terparts. The principal varieties of white-fleshed white-fleshed peaches are: are: principal varieties Dixired, Red Haven, Haven, Fair Fair Haven, Haven, Hale Hale Haven, Haven; Southland, Elberta and J. The last two are are particularly late J. H. H. Hale. Hale. The last two Elberta and late maturing maturing fruits and less tasty than the others. Almost of French peach production Almost half half of production takes place in the the Rh6ne There is also extensive peach cultivation in the Rhône Valley. There the Garonne Valley, Bouches-du-Rhdne, Bouches-du-Rhône, Gard, Gard, Roussillon and and in The season lasts in the the Fr6jus Fréjus region. The lasts from from 10 l0 June June to l0 to 10 September. September. Peaches Peaches are eaten raw as a dessert fruit, or cooked, and in the latter latter form form they they enter enter into the making making of of a vast number of sweets and great many and pastries, pas tries, and and are are used used in in a a great man y confectionery preparations. preparations. Various Various excellent excellent beverages are also made made from peaches; peaches; highly flavoured brandies and liqueurs are are distilled distilled from from them. them. The following following can be classed among the best varieties of French French peaches: peaches: Amsdem, Amsdem, a round round fruit, slightly slightly flattened, of medium medium size, size, with with red red flush flush and and mottling, mottling, and greenish-white, greenish-white, juicy of good good flavour; Early Croncels, aabig big ovoid ovoid fruit, juicy flesh flesh of amber amber coloured coloured with purplish purplish flush, flush, with a delicate delicate flesh and pleasant pleasant flavour; flavour; Felignies Felignies (end (end of August) medium-sized fruit, crimson flush, flush, creamy white flesh of of very fruit, yellow yellow with with crimson good good flavour; flavour; Victoria, Victoria, round round medium-sized medium-sized fruit, fruit, yellow yellow with with crimson crimson flush, flush, white white melting melting flesh flesh tinted tinted next next stone, very good; good; Hale's Hale's early, early, medium-sized fruit, slightly flattened, flattened, flushed and mottled, mottled, very very juicy juicy flesh flesh of of good good flavour; France, France, flushed and big big round round fruit fruit with with very very downy downy skin, skin, yellow yellow and and crimson crimson in in colour, colour, with with white white flesh, flesh, slightly slightly tinted tinted next next stone, stone, very very good; good; Grosse Grosse mignonne, mignonne, very very big big almost almost round round fruit, fruit, skin flushed flushed 678 678

PEACOCK PEACOCK cook in 'And 'And I1 put put one, one, the best best 1I could find, find, to to cook in aabain-marie bain-marie some (q.v.). syrup, poured exquisite sugar syrup, (q.v.). I1 smothered smothered it with with exquisite poured sorne cream cream over over it - and there there it it was.' pficnns MERINGUÉES AU RIZ RIz wnlNcufss AU Peaches Peaches with rice riee and rneringue. meringue. PÊCHES and rice and with rice for Apricots Apricots with recipe for described in the recipe as described - Proceed as poached in peaches, poached in APRICOT), using meringue meringue (see (see APRICOT), using halved peaches, vanilla-flavoured syrup. vanilla-flavoured syrup. (Cold or (border) of sweet or Chantilly (Co i la Ring (border) of peaches peaches à la ChantiUy Id sweet p0crms À Bake aa Vanilla Vanilla A r,c. cuAwnrrv -- Bake dessert). BoRDURE dessert). BORDURE DE PÊCHES LA CHANTILLY cold (see CUST Leave until until cold ring mould. mould. Leave custqrd CUSTARD) ARD) in in aa ring custard (see poach in in vanillavanilladish. Halve 6 peaches, and turn out onto a dish. peaches, poach in the the middle middle of of flavoured and arrange arrange in syrup, drain, drain, dry dry and flavoured syrup, the ring. peaches with vanilla-fiavoured vanilla-flavoured whipped cream, Cover the peaches Coyer piling and crystallised cherries and it up in a dome. Decorate Decorate with crystallised piling it halved halved pistachio nuts. pf;cms -- Use peach purée, pur6e, Use peach Peach souffié. lux PÊCHES soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sournr6 AUX Peach (see SUGAR) crack degree degree (see SUGAR) syrup cooked to crack mixed with sugar syrup mixed Prepare as as froth. Prepare stiff froth. whisked into into aa stifI then with with egg egg whites whisked then (See SOUFFLES, SOUFFLES, for fruit fruit soufflés. souffi6s. (See in the the recipe recipe for indicated in Fruit base mixtures.) mixtures.\ comPeach soufflés be made made using using aa cream cream comsouffi6s can can also also be Peach position, pieces of peaches cooked of peaches cooked and pieces position, mixed with peach pulp and vanilla-flavoured syrup, drained and and dried. dried. syrup, weil well drained in vanilla-flavoured pBcnns SULTANE whole or halved or halved Sultana. PÊCHES suLrANE -- Poach whole Peaches SuJtana. peaches in leave until cold. until cold. and leave vanilla-flavoured syrup syrup and in vanilla-flavoured peaches dish on on aa or dessert dessert dish in aa timbale timbale or them and and arrange arrange in Drain them (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS cream (see foundation of ice cream of Pistachio-nut Pistachio-nut ice foundation attar of of roses. roses. with attar syrup flavoured with Cover with with syrup AND ICES). Coyer (see SUGAR). SUGAR). degree (see cooked to pearl degree on a film ofsugar of sugar cooked Pour on pficnrs AU Roucn, AU VIN vIN ROUGE, in red red wine wine ài la la bordelaise. PÊCHES Peaches in peaches. Sprinkle peel 44 peaches. Sprinkle Halve and and peel nlrss ÀA LA LA BORDELAISE BoRDELAIsn -- Halve DITES (} pint, pint, li l| dl. (t hour. Boil Boil 33 dl. for 1I hour. sugar and and leave leave to stand stand for with sugar piece small piece and aa small lumps ofsugar of sugar and cups) Bordeaux Bordeaux wine with with 88 lumps cups) peaches pan- Poach the halved halved peaches Poach the in aa copper copper pan. of cinnamon cinnamon bark, in of in aa arrange in drain and and arrange in the are cooked, cooked, drain the wine. wine. When When they they are in peaches and pour over and glass dish. the peaches over the dish. Boil Boil down down the the syrup, syrup, pour glass get cold. leave to to get cold. leave and with sugar sugar and sprinkled with slices of of brioche, brioche. sprinkled Serve with with slices Serve glazed in in aa hot oyen. oven. glazed

Armagnac, Armagnac, brandy, brandy, Calvados, Calvados, rum, rum, and and set alight. alight. Instead Instead ofserving of serving all ail the the peaches peaches together together in one dish, dish, they can be be arranged arranged in in individual cassolettes. cassolettes.

Peach flan

Prepare as flan or tart. FLI,N, FLAN, TARTE AUX AUX PEcHEs PÊCHES -- Prepare Peach flan (flan) (see TART) TART) tart (flan) described in the the recipe recipe for Apricot tart described in using halved or quartered peaches. peaches. using Peach frittersfritters - See FRITTERS. Peach p6cnns AU FRONTIGNAN Peel the Peaches in Frontignan. PÊCHES FRoNTIGN,c.N -- Peel Peaches and Drain, and peaches and syrup. Drain, vanilla-flavoured syrup. and cook cook in in vanilla-flavoured arrange arrange in a dessert dessert dish. dish. Boil down the syrup by two-thirds, pour over and pour add Frontignan wine, and add several tablespoons of Frontignan peaches. Serve hot or cold. the peaches. Peach ice -- See ICE CREAMS AND ICES. pEcrcs À Peaches ài l'impératrice. A L'IMPÉRATRICE r'nrapfnar'rucB -- Peel the Peaches I'imp6ratrice. PÊCHES syrup. Drain peaches, halve poach in peaches, in vanilla-fiavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. and poach halve and two-thirds with and filled up up to to two-thirds in aa dish dish filled and dry. dry. Arrange them in (see RICE), in aa refrigerator. Rice RICE), chilled chilled in Rice à d l'impératrice I'impiratrice (see strawberry Coyer peaches with or strawberry layer of of raspberry or Cover the peaches with aa layer jelly. Peach Peach jam -- See JAMS AND JELLIES. pfN6ropn -- Poach the peaches in pBcrns PÉNÉLOPE in Penelope Penelope peaches. PÊCHES cool in in the syrup, strongly flavoured with vanilla. to cool vanilla. Leave to syrup. (see ICE Prepare ICE CREAMS CREAMS Prepare an an iced iced strawberry strawberry mousse (see AND ICES, /ced 35o syrup, syrup, mousselines) using aa 35° Iced mousses or or mousselines) (see (see SUGAR) quantity of of strawberry strawberry with an an equal equal quantity SUGAR) mixed mixed with (see CREAMS) pulp and twice its volume of CREAMS) cream (see of Chantilly Chantilly cream whisked mousse, with this this mousse, Fill individual individual moulds with whisked very stiffly. stiffiy. Fill seal Il for turn Before serving, serving, turn for 22 hours. hours. Before seal hermetically, and and chi chill out Arrange the the fruit dishes. dishes. Arrange mousse into into fruit out the the strawberry strawberry mousse peaches, on the the peaches, drained, in aa refrigerator, refrigerator, on and chilled chilled in dried and drained, dried mousse. mousse. Garnish Cover fresh chilled chilled strawberries. strawberries. Coyer with fresh Garnish the the middle with with pearl degree. with Serve with degree. Serve cooked to to pearl with aa film film of of sugar sugar cooked (q.v.) liqueur. zabaglione (q.v.) (q.v.) flavoured parfait-amour (q.v.) liqueur. flavoured with with parfait-amour p0cnrs (CRUE) puI,pE DE (cnur) -- Peel Peach (raw). PULPE pulp (raw). Peel and and rub rub Peach puJp or PÊCHES the flesh peaches through aa fine Add aa third third of of its its flesh of fine sieve. sieve. Add of the peaches weight liqueur. Flavour with with liqueur. sugar. Mix weight in in castor Mix weil. well. Flavour castor sugar. This pulp is compote, This pulp fruit, as as aa compote, is used for covering covering chilled chilled fruit, used for and fruit moulds, moulds, charlottes, fruit and for for certain certain cold sweets, such such as as charlottes, cold sweets, puddings, puddings, etc. etc. p6crms MADAME Peaches nfc,c,MInn MADAME RÉCAMIER Madame Récamier. R6camier. PÊCHES Peaches ài la la Madame -- René gave the in recipe for for this this dish dish in the following Ren6 de de Beauvoir Beauvoir gave following recipe Monde (May 1857), illusthe illusMonde Illustré Illustrd (May 1857), dictated dictated by by Chevrier, Chevrier, the trious century: trious maître mattre d'hôtel of the the early nineteenth century: d'hdtel of early nineteenth 'Madame 'Madame Récamier,' 'had lost lost ail all interest interest in in R6camier,' says says Chevrier, Chevrier, 'had food disobey food and fading away. No one one dared dared disobey and we we could could see see her her fading away. No the myself, Very weil, the doctor's well, 1I said said to to myself, doctor's orders for her her -- aa diet. diet. Very orders for she peaches -- l'II way. she likes likes peaches I'll serve serve her in my my own own way. her sorne some in

p.loN -- This was once once esteemed esteemed bird was This magnificent magnificent bird PEACOCK. PAON PEACOCK. greatly admired admired gastronomes as Today itit isis still still greatly rarity. Today as aa rarity. by gastronomes by gastronomical its gastronomical qualities but has lost lost its but has for its its ornamental ornamental qualities for value. value. grcat state place at state pride of at great of place held pride In the Ages itit held Middle Ages ln the Middle an experienced skill of of an experienced needed ail all the the skill banquets. Its Its cooking cooking needed banquets. was the skin skin was skinned carefully, carefully, the master-cook. The The bird bird was was skinned master-cook. its head with with its in aa fan, fan, the the head spread in the tail treated and tail spread treated and dressed, dressed, the with moistened with piece of linen, constantly constantly moistened crest wrapped wrapped in in aa piece of linen, crest gilded, and and were gilded, the beak beak were water during The feet feet and and the water during roasting. roasting. The table in in aa to the the table was carried carried to the bird, in full full feather, feather, was the bird, dressed dressed in buried great feasts was served served either either buried procession. At At great feasts itit was solemn procession. solemn (this its beak beak (this out of of its flames shotting shotting out under flowers flowers or or with with flames under in piece of putting aa piece cotton dipped dipped in of cotton by putting efIect effect being being achieved achieved by piece of in its its beak). beak). spirit, or camphor, in spirit, of camphor, or aa piece house or or the the most most of the the house the mas master The ter of The bird bird was was set set before before the present had the had the noblest present guest present. present. Only the noblest distinguished guest Only the distinguished as to to with such such skill skill as he could could do do itit with right right to it, and only ifif he to carve carve it, and only table, to to might be beat at table, guest, however there might allow however many many there allow each each guest, piece. have have aa piece. praise and and the praise amid the This shed amid accomplished This operation operation was was accompli knightthe knightapproval acknowledging the approval of of the the company, company, acknowledging and would rise rise and trenchant's fired with with enthusiasm, enthusiasm, would trenchant's skill. skill. He, He. fired worthy vowing to to be be worthy an oath oath vowing with with his the dish, dish, take take an his hand hand on on the hisstandard standard first to to raise raise his of the eulogies, being the the first ofthe either by by being eulogies, either leading aa or by by leading be besieged, besieged, or on on aa town town which was about about to to be which was lance lance attack the enemy. enemy. attack upon upon the

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PEANUT Then each each knight, knight, receiving piece, would receiving his his piece, would make make his own his own Then vow to peacock, and to the the peacock, and failure failure to to carry carry itit out out would would be beaa blot blot vow on his his escutcheon. escutcheon. on For culinary preparation of culinary preparation peacock, see of peacock, see PHEASANT. PHEASANT. For

Then there there isis Passe-Crassane, Passe-Crassane) big, big, round, round, with with ftattened flattened Then extremities, aa musky musky flavour flavour but gritty flesh. but rather rather gritty flesh. ItIt extremities, refrigerates successfully successfully and and isis marketed marketed from from Christmas Christmas to to refrigerates Easter. Easter. French pears pears and and sorne some imported imported Italian pearskeep Italian pears keep the the French French market market supplied supplied from from July July to to April. April. For For the reFrench the remainder of year, there of the the year, pears from there are are pears from the the southern southern mainder (Argentine, Australia, hemisphere (Argentine, Australia, South Africa) mostly South Africa) mostly hemisphere Beurri d'Anjou, d' Anj ou, and Packam's Triumph. and Pack Beurré am 's Triumph. pears of The pears of Provence Provence and ofthe and of Rh6ne Valley Valley account account for for The the Rhône half the the bulk production. They bulk of of French French production. They are are mostly mostly early half early (Docteur Guyot varieties (Docteur Guyot and and Williams). William.s). The The Paris Paris region, region, varieties Loire Valley Valley and grow mainly and Anjou Anjou grow mainly autumn autumn and and winter winter Loire (Beund Hardy, varieties (Beurré Hardy, Doyenné Doyenni du du comice comice and and, PassePassevarieties Crassane). Crassane). pears generally Cooking pears generally have have rather rather crisp crisp fiesh, flesh, sometimes sometimes Cooking gritty and rather gritty and often often tart. tart. They They are are in in season season from rather from December to to May May and and should should only only be be eaten eaten cooked. cooked. December pears are Perry pears are used in the perry or pear cider. used in the making making of of perry Perry or pear cider. Dessert pears, pears, among among the the best best of of dessert dessert fruits, fruits, are are usually Dessert usually eaten raw raw but may may be be cooked cooked and and used used as filling or garnish eaten as aa fil1ing or garnish pies, iced for tarts, tarts, flans, flans, pies, iced mousses, mousses, charlottes, charlottes, etc. for etc. per cent With only only 22 per cent acid acid content, content, the pear isis suitable the pear suitable for With for the most most fragile fragile digestions, digestions, provided provided itit isis well well masticated. masticated. Its the Its flesh contains contains aa large large number number of (notably of minerai mineral salts flesh salts (notably manganese); its its sugar sugar is is assimilable assimilable even even by by diabetics. diabetics. manganese); Excellent preserves preserves are are also also made pears. They made of of dessert dessert pears. Excellent They can be be crystallised like like any any other other fruit, quartered. fruit, whole whole or or quartered. can They are partly dried are then then partly dried in in the the oyen oven and flattened on They and fiattened one on one side -- these these dried dried pears can can be found in be found in the the shops shops and side and are are calledpoires tapdes in in France. called poires tapées Baked pears, pears, also poires en also caUed called poires en douillon douillon and Baked and poires porRns EN RABOTTE cartouches. POIRES RABorrE -- Peel and core the pears, pears, halfcartouches. cook in in butter and and wrap each piece of each in in aa piece cook of Fine Fine lining lining paste (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Put on top ofeach of each a circlet cut out of the same (see same and bake pastry. Brush with beaten egg and bake in in aa hot hot oyen oven for for 25 25 minutes, or longer, if the pears are large. minutes, douillons or baked pears can also be prepared prepared without The douil/ons peeling. Half-cook them in the them in the oyen peeling. oven before before enclosing enclosing in in pastry. pastry. porREs BOURDALOUE Bourdaloue. POIRES BouRDALouE -- Cut the Pears Bourdaloue. the pears in half if they are ofmedium of medium size, or in quarters quarters ifthey halfifthey if they are large. Trim and poach vanilla-flavoured syrup. poach in vanilla-ftavoured (see Put them in a a flan case, filled filled with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see CREAMS) CREA MS) and proceed as described in the recipe for Peaches Peaches Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see (see PEACH).

plant with pods Peanut plant with pods Peanut buried in in the the earlh earth buried

PEAI{UT. ARACHIDE ARAcHTDE -- Plant Plant ongmating originating from from America PEANUT. is cultivated which is cultivated in in ail all hot hot countries. pods, which bury countries. Its Its pods, bury which themselves in in the the earth earth to to mature mature the produce nuts the seeds, seeds, produce nuts themselves which are are eaten eaten either either raw raw or or roasted. They are also known which under the the names names of groundnut and of earthnuts, earthnuts, groundnut and monkey-nut. monkey-nut. under The nutrition nutrition value value of of the the peanut is considerable. considerable. The peanut is peanut butter Peanut oil and and peanut are made made from from this nut. nut. The Pean ut oil butter are latter can can be eaten in in sandwiches sandwiches or pieces of or on on pieces of toast, toast, latter be eaten accompanied by by lettuce leaves, cream, cream, chervil and tarragon, accompanied lettuce leaves, jam or gingerbread, with or on on gingerbread, with jam orjelly. or jelly. Peanut oiloil - See See OIL, OlL, Groundnut Groundnut oil. Peanut paste. eArr Peanut Prepare using blanched blanched Peanut paste. PÂTE D'ARAcHTDE D'ARACffiDE - Prepare peanuts same way (see ALMOND). way as as Almond ALMOND). peanuts in in the the same Almond pasre paste (see PEAR. porRE Fruit of of the p€ar of the family family Rosaceae PEAR. POIRE -- Fruit pear tree of Rosaceae which seem to have which does does not not seem have been known in the distant past. It was and Pliny Pliny mentions It was cultivated cultivated by by the the Romans, Romans, and mentions 38 varieties Today, a varieties of of it, it, whilst whilst Virgil Virgil only only mentions three. three. Today, whole whole volume volume would would be be required required to to enumerate enumerate them. them. They They are are classified classified as as follows: follows: early varieties, usually sold in in summer summer as as they they ripen; ripen; mid-season mid-season varieties, varieties, picked picked at the end end of of August August or or beginning beginning of of September September and consumed consumed in autumn; autumn; and and late late varieties, varieties, which which are refrigerated and eaten in in winter winter and and early early spring. spring. Among Among the the early early varieties varieties are are the the Doyenni Doyenné de de juillet, juillet, Beuti Beurré Giffard, both of of these these in in season season from from the the beginning beginning of of July. Giffard, both Docteur Docteur Guyot, the the earliest of of the wide range of of cultivated cultivated varieties varieties appears appears next. next. The tasty tasty Williams's or Bon Bon Chritien Chrétien (Bartlett in U.S.A.) U.S.A.) is is sold sold throughout throughout France from from mid (Bartlett in August August to to early early October. October. It It is is a a knobbly knobbly pear, pear, yellow yellow in colour, colour, often often tinged tinged with with pink. pink. It It has has delicate, delicate, slightly slightly muskmuskflavoured flavoured flesh. flesh. The arel. LouiseThe best best known known of of the the mid-season mid-season varieties varieties are: LouiseBonne, Bonne, aa large large pear, pear, red red in in colour, colour, fading fading to to yellow, yellow, with with very very delicate delicate flesh; ftesh; Alexandrine Alexandrine Douillard; Douillard; Beurrd Beurré Hardy, Hardy, aa russet russet pear pear streaked streaked with with dark dark red; red; Belle Belle Epine Epine du du Mas. Mas. Other Other lesser lesser known known varieties varieties are are also also popular: popular: Beurrd Beurré Clairgeau, Clairgeau, for for example, Beurré Diel, Diel, de de Curi, Curé, and and Beurrd Beurré d'Arenberg, d'Arenberg, etc. example, Beurrd The The best best known known of of the the late late varieties varieties are, are, first, first, the the most most esteemed esteemed of of all, ail, the the Doyenni Doyenné du du comice, comice, pale pale green green shaded shaded with with darker darker green green and and red. red. It It has has an an excellent excellent flavour flavour and isis marketed marketed from from the the end end of of October October to to the the end end of of December. December.

Beurr6 Beurré Clairgeau Clairgeau pars(Wide pears (Wide World) World)

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PEAR PEAR

( RobertCarrier) Carrier\ Pears l'imp6ratrice (Roberl Pearsàdl'impératrice

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PEARL porRES BRTLLAT-SAVARTN poach Pears Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin.POIRES Pears BRILLAT-SAVARIN - - Poach 88 pear halves halves ininvanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup.Drain Drain them, them,dry, dry,and and pear arrange in inaacircle circle on (q.v.)cut onaaGenoese cake(q.v.) Genoesecake cut into into two twolayers layers arrange and sandwiched sandwiched together together with with thick, thick, rum-flavoured rum-flavoured stewed stewed and pear mixture. mixture. Decorate Decorate with with crystallised crystallised cherries cherries and and pear lozenges of of angelica. angelica. Heat Heat inin the the oyen. oven.Pour Pourover over sorne some lozenges rum-flavoured, thinned-down thinned-downapricot pulp. Serve apricot pulp. Serve with with rum-flavoured, rum-flavoured Custard (see CREAMS) Custard cream cream (see CREAMS) thickened thickened rum-flavoured with arrowroot. arrowroot. with porRES cARDTNAL pears. POIRES Cardinal pears. pears inin Poachthe the pears Cardinal CARDINAL - - Poach vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. Leave Leave them them to to cool, cool, drain, drain, and and vanilla-flavoured arrange in in aa fruit fruit dish dish or or inin aa timbale. timbale. Coyer Coverwith with kirschkirscharrange flavoured, sweetened sweetened raspberry raspberry purée, pur6e, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with flavoured, chopped almonds. almonds. chopped porREs - Using Pear charlotte. charlotte. CHARLOTTE cHARLorrE DE pears, DE POIRES stewedpears, Pear - Using stewed prepare as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for (see for Apple Apple charlotte charlotte (see prepare CHARLOTTE). CHARLOTTE). porRxs - Using Pear compote. compote. COMPOTE coMporr DE pears ifif DE POIRES whole pears Pear - Using whole they are are small, quartered ifif they small, halved halved or prepare or quartered they are are large, large, prepare they as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Peach (see Peach compote compote (see as COMPOTE). COMPOTE).

Pearflan flan Pear crdme adlalacréme (CafidedcParis) Paris) (Café Phot.Larousse) I-arousse) Phol.

(seeAPRICOT), meringue (see APRICOT), using usinghalved quartered pears meringue halvedororquartered pears poached ininvanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup. syrup. poached (border) of Ring (border) porREs pearsChantilly. of pears Chantilly.BORDURE Ring BoRDURE DE DEPOIRES cHANTTLLv - - These These cold cold sweets sweets are CHANTILLY aremade quartered made using usingquartered pears, cooked cooked ininsyrup syrup like likeBorder Borderof peachesàdlalaChantilly pears, ofpeaches Chantilly (see PEACH). PEACH). (see porR"us Ài LA peel Pearswith withsemolina. semoHna. POIRES Pears r,c,SEMOULE seluourn GRATINÉES cn-e.rrNfss - -Peel pears, cut the pears, quartersand cut into into quarters the and cook cookininaa light lightvanillavanillaflavoured syrup. Drain and syrup. Drain flavoured andarrange arrangeininaacircle circle ininaabuttered buttered oven-proof dish dish on on aa thick oven-proof thick layer layer of ofsemolina, semolina, cooked cookedasas described inin the described the recipe recipe for for Semo/ina pudding(see (see Semolina pudding SEMOLTNA). SEMOLINA). Sprinkle with with cru Sprinkle shed macaroons crushed macaroons and and meJted melted butter. butter. Brown the the top top in in aaslow Brown slowoyen oven and and serve serve in inthe thesame same dish. dish. porRrs - Prepare Pear soufflé. soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Pear sourrrf AUX AUx POIRES like aacream cream - Prepare like (see SOUFFLÉ) souffl6 (see soufflé SOUFFLE) using using aa cream cream composition composition mixed mixed pear pulp with pear pulp and with and aa salpicon (q.v.) of salpicon (q.v.) of crystallised crystallised pears, pears, steeped in in kirsch. kirsch. steeped porREs - Prepare Pear tarts. Pear tarts. FLANS, FLANs, TARTES TARTEs AUX AUx POIRES like any any - Prepare like fruit flan flan or fruit tart using or tart using sliced sliced or quartered pears or quartered pears(see (see TART). TART). porREs Timbale Timbale of pears d'Aremberg. of pears d'Aremberg. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE DE POIRES D'AREMBERG D'AREMBERG -- Butter Butter aa charlotte charlotte mould mould and and line line itit with with slightly firm slightly firm Brioche (see DOUGH). Brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). Fill Fill the the mould mould quarters of with quarters with pears, half-cooked of pears, half-cooked in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, putting them syrup, putting them in in rows rows alternating alternating with with stewed stewed apricots. apricots. Coyer piece of Cover with with aa piece of rolled-out rolled-out brioche brioche dough, dough, sealing sealing the the edges. edges. Make Make aa small small hole hole in in the the middle middle to to allow allow steam steam to to escape. escape. Bake Bake in in aa hot hot oyen oven for for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn out out on on to to aa serving serving dish pour over dish and and pour over kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured Apricot Apricot (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE).

Pears Condé Cond6 Pears

Pears Cond6. poRss coNof -- Using pears cooked in syrup, syrup, Pears Condé. POIRES CONDÉ prepare ( see APRICOT). Condd apricots (see prepare like like Condé

PEARL. PERLE rERLE -- Pearl-like. Pearl-like. Hulled Hulled and polished barley and polished barley isis called pearl barley (see LEY). (see BAR BARLEY). A degree degree of of the the boiling of sugar is of sugar pearl degree is also also called called pearl degree (see SUGAR).

porRES - Using Pear cRourEs AUX AUX POIRES halved or Pear crofites. croûtes. CROUTES - Using halved quartered prepare quartered pears pears poached poached in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, prepare as crofrte (see APRICOT). as described described in the recipe for Apricot Apricot croûte Pear KrRscH -- Using Pear flamb6 flambé au kirsch. porREs POIRES rr,c.NanEes FLAMBÉES AU KIRSCH whole in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup, or halved pears pears cooked cooked in whole or prepare prepare like like Peachflambie Peachfiambée aukirsch au kirsch (see PEACH). Pear Pear fritters fritters - See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Pears Pears H6line. Hélène. porRES POIRES snriNr HÉLÈNE - Poach Poach the pears in van illavanillaflavoured vanilla-flavoured ice. ice. Serve flavoured syrup and arrange on vanilla-flavoured Serve with hot Chocolate Chocolate sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with hot Pear Pear ice ice and and lced Iced mousse mousse - See ICE ICE CREAMS AND AND ICES. Iced Iced pears pears Mourier. Mourier. porRES POIRES cr.lcfrs GLACÉES MouRrER MOURIER - peel Peel Crassane Crassane pears pears to to as uniform unifonn aa size as possible possible and poach in syrup syrup strongly strongly flavoured flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. Drain Drain and chill chili on on ice. ice. Arrange Arrange in in a meringue meringue flan flan case case filling the middle with kirsch-flavoved lcedpear pear mousse mousse (see (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND kirsch-flavoured lced ICES). ICES). Pipe Pipe whipped whipped cream cream over the the mousse mousse through through a forcing bag and and decorate decorate with with glac6 glacé cherries, cherries, angelica angelica forcing bag lozenges lozenges and and almonds. almonds. Pears Pears ià I'imperatrice. l'impératrice. porREs POIRES a À r'rupfnarRrcE L'IMPÉRATRlCE -- Using Using whole or halved halved pears, pears, poach poach in in vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured syrup syrup and whole or proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Peaches Peaches dà I'impdratice l'impératrice (see (see PEACH). PEACH). Pear Pear MelbaMelba - See See ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. Pears Pears with with rice rice and and meringue. meringue. porREs POIRES uenrNcufrs MERINGUÉES AU AU Rrz RlZ -Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Apricots Apricots with with rice rice and and

PEC -- French word word used used only only in in the the expression expression hareng pec, hareng pec, i.e. freshly salted herring, barrelled without without being being smoked. smoked. pfc.c,Rr Species PECCARY. PECCARY. PÉCARlpig. Its South American wild Its wild pig. - Species of South flesh flesh is prized but is much much prized but sometimes sometimes has has aa musky musky flavour. flavour. Peccary is prepared prepared like young wild wild boar boar (q.v.). PEIGNE -- Genus of bivalve molluscs PECTEN. pErcNE molluscs of of the the family family Pectinidae with rounded shells, Pectinidae shells, divided grooves radiatdivided into into grooves radiating from the middle of the hinge, the the most most important important species species

being the scallop. scallop. being ln many man y respects scallops can In can be be compared compared to to oysters, oysters, but, but, oysters are stationary, the rocks, while oysters stationary, stuck stuck to to the rocks, scallops scallops are are mobile, rising rising and and whirling on on the the surface mobile, the water. surface of of the water.

Pilgrims to to the the shrine shrine of of Saint Saint James James at at Santiago Santiago de de Compostela always wore wore the the 'palmer's 'palmer's cockle' jacCompostela (pecten jaccockle' (Pecten on their their shoulder, shoulder, having having gathered obaeus) on gathered them them on on the the Thus this this mollusc first first acquired acquired in in French French the the name seashore. Thus seashore. name of peigne peigne Saint-Jacques Saint-Jacques and and later later became became merely merely SaintSaintSCALLOP, Saint-Jacques.) (See SCALL Jacques. (See OP, SScallop callop Saint-Jacque s.)

PECTIN. pEcrrNE PECTINE - Mucilaginous substance occurring occurring as PECTIN. as aa - Mucilaginous substance constituent in in certain certain fruits fruits (quince, (quince, apples, apples, oranges, oranges, lemons, lemons, constituent

682 682

PEPPER PEPPER

after Car6rne Pediments Pediments for Cor cold dishes, dishes. aCter Carême

dried and and of dried PEMMICAN PEMMICAN -- North North American American Indian Indian cake cake of

(split peas, peas, lentils, lentils, etc.) which which causes causes their etc.) and vegetables (split of sufficient pulp, when when boiled with with sugar sugar in the presence presence of sufficient acid, as a jelly. The skin and pips of these fruits contain contain a to set as great great deal pectin and should, therefore, be be used used in in the and should, deal of pectin preparation preparation of of jellies.

product famous famous fat, aa food pounded pounded meat meat mixed mixed with with melted melted fat, food product longer It isis no early expeditions expeditions to since the early to North North America, America, It no longer in demand. demand. denot dedid not long time, time, did for aa long kept for Pemmican could could be be kept Pemmican space. up little little space. teriorate, and took teriorate, took up (wild ox, now ox, now bison (wild meat of of bison from the the meat It was was first first made made from It the rump of of the The rump from venison. venison. The or from almost completely completely extinct), extinct), or almost pounded sun and and pounded in the the sun dried in slices, dried thin slices, animal was cut cut into into thin animal fat in in with melted melted fat powder was then mixed with was th meat powder finely. This meat en mixed paftfat, and enclosed enclosed parts meat one part to one meat to proportion oftwo of two parts the proportion fat, and raw, or or It was was eaten eaten raw, skin. lt animal's skin. from the the animal's in bags bags made made from in boiled in in water. water. boiled daily ration for the the dailyration pemmican were were enough enough for pounds of pemmican Two pounds Two working man. of aa working

PEDIMENTS. socrns -- Ornamental pediments PEDIMENTS. SOCLES pediments once played played the serving of cold dishes, important sweet aa great part in the dishes, dishes, etc. abandoned. ln modern practice practice their use has been abandoned. In whether hard PEEL. ÉCALUREName given to the outer skin, whether PEEL.fcuuRE - Name or soft, of some fruit and vegetables. of sorne

of PEELING. PEELING. ÉPLUCHAGE fprucHlcs -- The action of removing the skin of green peeled. Strip Strip green fruit or vegetables. Not ail all vegetables are peeled. discarding vegetables, such as sorrel, spinach and watercress, discarding shelled. as peas are shelled. such as ail all faded Ieaves. leaves. Other vegetables such beans beans and and runner beans The process of preparing French beans they are young they When they are for the pot is en they as stringing. Wh is known as are sim ply topped simply topped and and tailed.

of with aa decoction decoction of cooked with for sugar sugar cooked French term for PENIDE -- French PÉNIDE like twisted, like and twisted, slab and marble slab poured on an oiled oiled marble on an then poured barley, then barley, sugar the sugar renders the This manipulation manipulation renders hands. This with oiled cord, with oiled hands. aa cord, left transparent. transparent. which isis left sugar, which barley sugar, opaque, unlike barley opaque,

pourtor -- A with aa mint with wild mint of wild A kind kind of PENNYROYAL. PENNYROY AL. POULIOT in condiment in as aa condiment used as pungent flavour, flavour, sometimes sometimes used strong, pungent strong, cookery. cookery.

cheese. Roquefort cheese. PÉGOT which covers covers Roquefort PEGOT -- Sticky Sticky coating coating which l 1

1

pEr,c,MIoE -- Kalsuwonus pelamis, aa (BONITO). PÉLAMIDE Katsuwonus pelamis, PELAMIS (BONITO). latter by by the latter from the species fish related differs from Ifdiffers to the tunny. If offish related to species of pointed muzzle muzzle longer and and more more pointed its body, aa longer its more more elongated elongated body, and and aa bigjaw. big jaw. pelamis the common pela The mis isis the prototype of of the the common species of The prototype of the species which fish, which This fish, bonito. This Sardinian pelamis or red-backed bonito. or red-backed Sardinian pelamis blue (27 inches), with light light blue silvery with reaches inches), isis silvery cm. (27 reaches aa length length of of 68 68 cm. in the the and in tints in the Mediterranean and found in the Mediterranean It isis found the back. back. It tints on on the for tunny tunny prepared in way suitable suitable for Atlantic in any any way Atlantic and and can be prepared can be (q.v.). (q.v.).

polvRr - Fruit genus ofvineplant, aa genus of vinepepper plant, the pepper Fruit of of the PEPPER. POIVREPEPPER. Archipelago. ItIt isis Indian Archipelago. the Indian native of of the like shrubs, shrubs, aa native like Asia tropical Asia of tropical whole of the whole throughout the extensively cultivated cultivated throughout extensively America. and equatorial equatorial America. and into be introduced introduced into to be first spices spices to of the the first Pepper was was one one of Pepper prescriptions' in his his prescriptions. Hippocrates in by Hippocrates Europe. It It was was used used by Europe. pepper, black pepper, pepper in commerce: black in commerce: kinds of of pepper There are are two two kinds There pepper, white pepper, and white greenish-black wrinkled surface, and wrinkled surface, with aa greenish-black with part fleshy part the fleshy and the the skin skin and from the freed from same seed seed freed which isis the the same which black than black pungent and less aromatic aromatic than and less less pungent the fruit. fruit. ltIt isis less of the of are ripe. ripe. they are picked before before they pepper. The are picked The berries berries are pepper. and aroma; aroma; itit isis flavour and its flavour pepper rapidly loses its rapidly loses Ground pepper Ground required. AA when required. grind ititas asand andwhen to grind always to therefore advisable advisable always therefore avoids one avoids purpose. With With this this one pepper mill for this this purpose. used for mill isis used pepper possible substitutes adulterations. and adulterations. substitutes and possible all into almost almostal! entering into condiment, entering Pepper isis aa much-used much-used condiment, Pepper itsoveroverand its stimulant, and strong stimulant, preparations. ltIt isis aastrong culinary preparations. culinary useshould should be beavoided. avoided. use has pimento.PIMENT Capsicum {rUlescens PIMENT - - Capsicum pepper or Red pepper or pimento. frutescenshas Red now cultivated cultivated America.ItItisisnow ofAmerica. native of and isisaanative many varieties varieties and many ground itit and ground Dried and partsof world. Dried the world. of the warm parts most warm inin most pepper, chilli chilli cayenne pepper, variety, cayenne the variety, to the becomes, according according to becomes, pepper. paprika and red pepper. powder, paprika and red powder, condiments. peppers are mainly asascondiments. are used used mainly Allthese these peppers Ail pArnDE nn (Cr6olecookery). cookery).PÂTE paste (Créole (pimento) paste pepper (pimento) Red pepper Red

PÉLARDON CHEESE. RUOMS -_ See SCC CHEESE. PfLARDON DE DE RUOMS naked large naked PELICAN fowl, with with aalarge water fowl, PELICAN -- Large web-footed water Large web-footed as long bill, bill, serving serving as pouch gular sac, the long pouch or hangs from from the sac, which which hangs or gular mainly inin place for They live live mainly aa temporary fish. They for fish. temporary storage storage place few marine marine freshwater are aa few but there there are lagoons, but freshwater lakes lakes and and lagoons, pelicans. species, Brown pelicans. and the the Brown species, like like the Chilean and the Chilean in Their eaten in is, nevertheless, nevertheless, eaten tough but but is, Their flesh flesh isis oily and tough oily and sorne some countries. countries.

prI.rlriNss SIBÉRIENS kind PEL'MENI (Russian cookery). smfnIrNs - - AA kind cookery). PELLMÈNES PEL'MENI (Russian pork. and pork. of of beef beefand beef, or mixture of filling of of beef, or aa mixture with aafilling of ravioli ravioli with be can be they can The generally served soup or or they pel'meniare served inin soup The pel'meni aregenerally likeaa served TheSiberians Siberians like cream. The ofsour sour cream. served boiled boiled with with aadollop dollop of mustard dish. with the the dish. dressing with mustard and and vinegar vinegar dressing such as as parings, PELURES rings, such for usable usablepa culinary term termfor PELURES -- French French culinary

trume parings. truffie or or mushroom mushroom parings.

683 683

PEPPER PEPPER prrr,tENTsDOUX peppersà il'orientale. Sweetpeppers I'orientale.PIMENTS DouxÀAL'ORIENTALEL'orurNTALE Sweet Peeland andseed peppers,and seedthe thepeppers, andeut cutinto intolarge largedice. Putinto dice.Put intoa a Peel casseroleand andfor for500 (18oz.) 500g.g.(18 peppersadd oz.)peppers add100 100g.g.(4(4oz., oz., casserole cup)chopped choppedonion onionwhich whichhas hasbeen beensoftened softenedininoiloil 1I cup) withoutallowing allowingitittotocol colour. pinchofofgarlic. garlic.Moisten Adda apinch without our. Add Moisten withI!-l| dl.dl.C!-$ pint, pint,i 3cup) c,rp)stock stockand gentlyfor andsimmer simmergently for with 35minutes. minutes. 35 peppersài lalapetite Sweetpeppers petiterussienne (Russiancookery) russienne(Russian Sweet cookery) pETrrERUSSIENNE eIMENTS DOUX oouxÀALALAPETITE RUssIENNE- -Cut greensweet Cut2424green PIMENTS sweet peppersopen openatatthe thestalk stalkend endand andremove removethe theseeds. peppers seeds.Parboil Parboil slightlyand andstuff stuffwith forcemeatprepared preparedininthe slightly with a aforcemeat thefollowing following manner: manner: Chopcoarsely coarsely22handfuls handfulsofofsorre! sorrel!eaves, peeledand leaves,44peeled Chop and seededtomatoes, tomatoes, 33sweet sweetSpanish Spanishon greenpeppers onions, peppers seeded ions, 33green and1Istalk stalkofoffenne\. fennel.Put Putthese theseinto intoaasaucepan and saucepanininwhich whichaa littleolive oliveoil oilhas hasbeen beenheated. heated.At Atthe little thefirst firstsign signofboiling of boilingdrain drain sieveto toremove removeexcess excessliquid. liquid. Fill pepperswith ininaasieve Fillthe thepeppers withthis this forcemeatmixed mixed with with aaIittle parboiled ininsalted littlerice, rice,parboiled forcemeat salted water water and drained. drained. and Put the peppers into thepeppers into an anoiled pan, packing packing them oiledsauté Put saut6 pan, theminin fairly tightly. tightly. Moisten Moisten with with tomato tomato purée, pur6e, which fairly whichshould shouldnot not be too too thick. thick. Add Add thejuice the juiceof21emons of 2 lemons and pint,seant be dl.(t(tpint, and22dl. scant cup) olive olive oil. oil. Cook Cookfor for25 25 minutes. minutes.Transfer cup) Transfer totoaadeep deepdish dish and leave leaveuntil untilcold. cold. and These peppers peppers are areserved servedas These ashors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre,which which ininRussia Russia arecalled zakuski. are called zakuski. prMENrs DOUX Sweet peppers pepperc ài lala piémontaise. pi6montaise. PIMENTS Sweet noux ÀA LA ra pI6laoNt,clsr - Seed peel the and peel PIÉMONTAISE peppers, and the peppers, and cook cook inin stock stock - Seed and for 1515 minutes. minutes. Butter Butter an for an ovenproof ovenproof dish put inin the dish and and put the peppers in in rows, rows, with with alternating alternating rows peppers (see rows of of cheese cheese risotto risotto (see RICE, Risotto Risotto àd lala piémontaise). piimontaise). Finish RICE, Finish with with aa layer layer of of peppers. Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated Parmesan peppers. with grated Parmesan cheese cheese and and melted melted butter and gently in and brown brown gently butter in the the oyen. oven. Sweet pepper pepper purée puree -- See Sweet See PURÉE. PUREE. Rago0t of prMENTs peppers ài l'espagnole. of sweet sweet peppers Ragoût I'espagnole. RAGOÛT RAGoOT DE DE PIMENTS ooux ÀA L'ESPAGNOLE L'EsIAGNoLE -- Seed DOUX peel 66 peppers, Seed and peppers, eut and peel cut into into quarters and put into and put pan in into aa sauté quarters saut6 pan (4 oz., in which g. (4 which 100 100 g. oz., lcup) I cup) finely sliced sliced onion finely onion has has been been softened softened in in oil. oil. Season Season with with salt salt and red red pepper. Add and Add 1I clove clove of pounded garlic, of pounded garlic, sprinkle sprinkle in in 1I tablespoon flour flour and tablespoon and moisten moisten with pint, I!with 33 dl. dl. (t lf cups) cups) stock stock $ pint, and 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 and tablespoons) tomato pur6e. Simmer tomato purée. Simmer for 35 35 minutes. gently for minutes. Serve Serve in in aa vegetable vegetable dish dish or or timbale. timbale. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. prMENTs DOUX pepper salad Sweet pepper salad ài la la créole. cr6ole. SALADE SALADE DE DE PIMENTS Doux À A LA CRÉOLE cRfoLE --- Mixture LA ce , Mixture of of sweet sweet peppers peppers and and boiled boiled ririce, seasoned with seasoned with oil, oil, vinegar, salt salt and paprika. (See (See SALAD, and paprika. SALAD, Sweet Sweet pimento pimento salad àd la créole.) crdole.')

Branch ofpepper shrub Branch of pepper shrub

PIMENTS This can be bought bought in in delicatessen delicatessen shops shops ready ready for for PIMENTS -- This can be

use, but it can also be made at home. use, but it can also be made at home. pound long, Seed and and pound long, strong strong red peppers with red peppers with aa little little Seed onion, ginger and salt in a mortar. put this thick paste into a onion, ginger and salt in a mortar. Put this thick paste into a jar and coyer cover itit with with best best oil. oil. Close Close with with aa well-fitting weli-fitting lid. lid. jar and Leave to to macera macerate. paste will This paste will keep keep indefinitely, indefinitely, as as long long as as Leave te. This there is is aa protective protective layer layer of of oil oil on on top. top. there peppers. PIMENTS Sweet peppers. eTMENTS DOUX Doux -- The The big peppers or big sweet sweet peppers or Sweet pimentos, which which are are cultivated cultivated in in Spain, Spain, Italy, Italy, the the South South of of pimentos, France and and in in the the United United States, States, are are used used in in cookery cookery and and are are France served, red red or green, as or green, as hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'uuvre, as as aa vegetable vegetable and and as as aa served, salad. salad. peppers fried prMENTs DOUX Sweet peppers fried in in baller. batter. PIMENTS Doux EN EN FRITOT FRrror -Sweet Choose small-sized small-sized peppers, peppers, put put them them under under aa grill grill for for aa few few Choose moments loosen the peel and the skin, skin, peel and remove remove seeds. seeds. Stuff Stuff moments to to loosen them (q.v.) of salpicon (g.v.) of onions onions and and mushrooms, mushrooms, them with with aa salpicon softened in and bound bound with with aa little little Tomato sauce (see sauce (see softened in butter butter and SAUCE), mixed with sorne some chopped chopped garlic garlic and and parsley. SAUCE), mixed with Leave for 1I hour juice, salt hour in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, Jdt and and Leave to to macerate macerate for pepper. pepper. A serving, dip peppers one by one in dip the the peppers in A few few minutes minutes before before serving, a and fry smoking hot deep fat, a light light batter batter (see (see BATTER) BATTER) and fry in in smoking drain salt and and arrange arrange in drain on on aa cloth, cloth, season season with with fine fine dry dry salt in a heap heap on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve with with tbmato tomato sauce. sauce. Sweet Sweet peppers peppers au au gratin. gratin. prMENrs PIMENTS Doux DOUX cRATlr.u6s GRATINÉS - Seed and of and peel peel the the peppers, peppers, and and cook cook in in butter. butter. Line Line the bottom bottom of an an ovenproof ovenproof dish dish with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), mixed with with aa good good tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped chopped onion onion softened softened in butter. butter. Put Put in in the the peppers, peppers, cover coyer with with Mornay Mornay sduce, sauce, sprinkle sprinkle with grated grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown in in a slow slow oven. oyen. Sweet Sweet peppers peppers or or pimentos pimentos with with black black olives olives (Creole (Créole cookprMENTos DOUX AUX ery). ery). uurNrq PIMENTS, PIMENTOS Doux AUX oLrvES OLIVES NorREs NOIRES -- put Put 4 big big green green peppers peppers under under aa grill grill to to make make peeling peeling easier. Remove Remove seeds, seeds, shred shred the the pimentos pimentos into into fineTrlienne fine julienne (q.v.) (g.v.) strips strips and and season season with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce sauce (see (see sAUCE). SAUCE). Arrange Arrange this thisjulienne julienne as as aa border border in in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish and and fill fil! the the middle middle with with small small black black olives. olives, marinated marinated in in oil. oil.

Sluffed sweet sweet p€ppers peppers dà la la turque turque (Scarzali) (Scamati) Stuffed

i

Sweet peppers peppers à la la turque. turque. prMENrs PIMENTS Doux DOUX FARcrs FARCIS A À L,c, LA Sweet TURQUE - Peel Peel the the peppers, peppers, op€tr open them them at at the the stalk stalk end end and and TLJReUE

Section Sectionofofpepper pepper

-

684 684

PERSILLER PERSILLER

1

Silver Silver perch perch

perch River River perch

remove remove seeds. seeds. Parboil Parboil for for 5 5 minutes minutes and and stuff stuff with with aa forcemeat forcemeat composed composed of of two-thirds two-thirds cooked, cooked, chopped chopped mutton mutton and and one-third rice, rice, boiled boiled in in stock, seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, flavoured ftavoured with with a a little !ittle garlic garlic and and bound bound with with 44

The The name name of of perch perch is is also also given given to to other other species species of of spinyspinybass, perchperch,black as silver such fish, freshwater finned finned freshwater fish, such as si/ver perch, black bass, perchtrout, etc. trout, etc. The The silver sil ver perch, perch, which which originated originated in in North North America America is is now now quite quite common common in in French French rivers rivers and and is is also also found found in in lakes. lakes. Black Black bass, bass, also also of of North North American American origin, origin, has has been been is some years acclimatised acclimatised in in French French waters waters for for sorne years past. pa st. Its Its flesh f1esh is river resembles it flavour In bones. white. white, delicate delicate and and has has few few bones. In ftavour it resembles river suitable for any way trout trout aa little little and and can can be be prepared prepared in in any way suitable for this this (see fish TROUT). fish (see TROUT). acclimatised in also now The The American American perch-trout, perch-trout, also now acclimatised in river trout. trout. French French waters, waters, is is prepared prepared like like river the for name English name for the an old old English 'Bass' from'barse', derived from 'Bass' is is derived 'barse', an perch. perch. pot with filter with aa filter Big colTee coffee pot IERcoLATEUR -- Big PERCOLATOR. PERCOLATEUR PERCOLATOR. (see COFFEE). quantities (see in big coffee in used for for making making black used black colTee big quantities COFFEE).

c,rp) tomato tablespoons tablespoons (* (~cup) tomato pur6e. purée. Put the the peppers into into a a saut6 sauté pan pan on on a a foundation foundation of of Put chopped chopped onions onions lightly lightly fried fried in in oil' oil. Moisten Moisten with with a a few few tablespoons light Tomato sauce (see (see SAUCE). Bring Bring to to the the tablespoons in the on the stove, then then cook cookin the oven oyen with with aa lid !id on on from from 30 30 boil on pan juices juices poured poured to 35 minutes. Serve in a timbale with the pan over. L,c A LA Sweet peppers peppers ià Ia la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. PIMENTs PIMENTS noux DOUX À Sweet small-sized peppers and cut VlNAlGRETTE -- Choose Choose small-sized cut them them into into vINAIcR-ErrE Season dish. Season hors-d'euvre dish. quarters or slices. Arrange in in an hors-d'œuvre slices. Arrange chopped with chopped Sprinkle with and pepper. salt and with oil, pepper. Sprinkle with oil, vinegar, salt parsley and chervil. parsley garbe garmay be hors-d'euvre may prepared as as an an hors-d'œuvre Sweet peppers prepared Sweet peppers in small small cut in tomatoes cut nished with finely sliced young onions, tomatoes ingredients other ingredients and other eggs and pieces, chopped hard-boiled eggs chopped hard-boiled pieces, garnish. hors-d'auvre garnish. normally used as hors-d'œuvre normally

partridges. for old old partridges. Term for PERDRIX - Term PERDRIX game forcemeats and preparing game for preparing only for be used used only These can can be These forcemeats and be used used also be can also they tough, the too tough, not too pur6es. When are not When they they are purées. y can game andfumets. pitris, game stocks stocks andfumets. galantines, terrines, terrines, pâtés, for galantines, for they dry, they too dry, is not not too flesh is their ftesh and their old and not too too old Ifthey are not If they are of fot Chartreuse Chartreuse of used for or used cabbage or with cabbage stewed with can also also be be stewed can be partridges can can be Tender old old partridges (see PARTRIDGE). partidge (see PARTRIDGE). Tender partridge partridge. young partridge. for young suitable for prepared in way suitable in any any way prepared

pERcHE - Genus of freshwater freshwater fish. PERCH. PERCHE of in France France one of is considered considered in common The corn The mon or river perch is closely its closely by its It can be be recognised by fishes. It best freshwater fishes. the the best its scalloped scalloped first, its in the the first, spines in fins, with hard spines spaced spaced dorsal dorsal fins, colours, its bright bright col and its skin, and to the the skin, closely to scales ours, sticking closely scales sticking transverse with 66 transverse yellow below, below, with golden yellow greenish above, greenish above, golden (14 inches) inches) 35 cm. cm. (14 of 35 perch reach length of reach aa length River perch brown brown bars. bars. River flesh isis pounds)' Its Its ftesh kg. (4 almost 22 kg. weight of of almost and and attain attain aa weight @ pounds).

prepared àd la la All dishes dishes prepared (,4, LA) LA) -- Ail PERIGOURDINE (À PÉRIGOURDINE gras which/oie to which garnish of truffles, to of truffles, pdrigourdine include include aa garnish périgourdine foie gras (q.v.) is added. is sometimes sometimes added. (q.v.)

digestible. delicate easily digestible. delicate and and easily generally are generally perchettes, are called young of species, ca The young of the the species, The lied perchettes, prepared àd la la perch are are prepared medium-sized perch the medium-sized fried fried in in deep deep fat; fat; the prepared !ike like shad shad and prepared be stuffed stuffed and large can can be the large meunière meuniire and and the (q.v.). (q.v.).

WINKLE' See WINKLE. sIGonNsA,u -- See PERIWINKLE. BIGORNEAU PERIWINKLE. oyster. small oyster. for aa small Manche in Name used PERLOT PERLOT -- Name used in Manche for ponf -- Fennented way same way in the the same made in beverage, made Fermented beverage, PERRY. POIRÉ PERRY. juice. pear juice. as cider, cider, using using pear as Coq from Coq Normandy, from in Nonnandy, perry isis made made in famous perry The most most famous The pears. pears.

from brandy, brandy, made from Liqueur made PERSICOT -- Liqueur PERSICO, PERSICOT PERSICO, spices. and spices. peachstones, sugar and stones,sugar almonds, peach almonds, mixed parsley, often often mixed chopped parsley, Term for for chopped PERSILLADE -- Term PERSILLADE to certain certain garlic,added added to quantities of chopped garlic, of chopped varying quantities with varying with left-over to left-over applies to alsoapplies Theterm termalso ofcooking. cooking. The dishes at at the theend endof dishes with sprinkled with and sprinkled fator oroil oil and cooking fat meat, fried fried inin butter, butter, cooking meat, expressionpersillade householdexpression the household persillade.Thus Thus we we have havethe persillade. persillade parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped beefwith sauteedbeef meanssauteed deboeuf, boeuf,which de which means

(partridge) Perdrix (panridge) Perdrix

beefthat that isis to describe describe beef used to termused French tenn PERSILLE -- French PERSILLÉ present in top-quality persillage is only flecked with fat. Such ftecked with fat. Such persil/age is only present in top-quality beef. beef.

greenish-veined certaingreenish-veined describecertain alsoused usedtotodescribe Persilli isisalso Persil/é

cheeses. cheeses. grey (Rad/e)

red(Scaibni) [00 (Scaioni)

with dishwith sprinkleaadish means totosprinkle whichmeans Termwhich PERSILLER - - Tenn PERSILLER parsley. chopped parsley. chopped 685 685

PERSIMMON PERSIMMON PERSIMMON. raru - Fruit of a tree of Japanese origin. It PERSIMMON. KAKI - Fruit of a tree of Japanese origin. It has been cultivated for centuries in Japan and China, and is has been cultivated for centuries in Japan and China, and is cultivated commercially in France, Italy, Spain and other cultivated commercially in France, Italy, Spain and other Mediterranean countries and, in the U.S.A., in the South and Mediterranean countries and, in the U.S.A., in the South and in California. rather Iike likeaatomato tomatoininappearance. appearance. As Asitit in California. 11:Itisisrather ripens, it turns from yellow to red. It is a ioft, sweet fruit, ripens, it turns from yellow to red. It is a soft, sweet fruit, quite pleasant taste. quite pleasant inintaste. Iced persimmon cr6ole.KAKIS KAKrsGLACÉS cr.lc6s ÀALA laCRÉOLE cnforn- -Cut Cut Iced persimmon àilalacréole. a hole in the fruit round the stalk. Scoop out the pulp without a hole in the fruit round the stalk. Scoop out the pulp without breaking theskin. skin.Sprinkle Sprinkle kirsch kirsch or oisorne someother oihei liqueur fiqueur breaking the inside the scooped-out fruit. Leave to steep for I houi in a inside the scooped-out fruit. Leave to steep for 1 hour in a cool place. cool place. pulp through a fine sieve, add to pineappleice (see the pulp _ _B"b Rub the through a fine sieve, add to Pineapple ice (see ICE CREAMS AND ICES) ICES) and and fill fill the thescooped-out scoop-d-outfruit fruit ICE CREA MS AND with the mixture. with the mixture. Persimmon I'imp6ratrice. r.trrs .c, r'rMpfnlrnrce Steep KAKIS À L'IMPÉRATRICE -- Steep - Persimmon ài l'impératrice. the scooped-out fruit fruit inin liqueur, liqueur, asasinin the previous recipe. the previous recipe. the scooped-out Dice pulp the finely and mix withRice Riceàdl'impératrice (iee l;impdratrice (see Dice the pulp finely and mix itit with RICE). Fill Fill with with this rhis mixture. mixture. RICE). Persimmon jam. coNnruRE DE KAKrs Made from from very very Persimmon jam. CONFITURE DE KAKIS -- Made ripe fruit in in the the same same way jan (see way as as Apricot (see JAMS Apricot jam JAMS AND AND ripe fruit JELLTES). JELLIES). Persimmon with with kirsch. kirsch. KAKIS KAKrs AU AU KIRSCH KrRscH -- Taking Taking ripe ripe Persimmon persimmons, cut clJt aa hole hole in in each. each.Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and pour and pour persimmons, kirsch into into them. them. Serve Serve on on aa bed bed of of ice ice shavings. shavings. kirsch Stewed persimmon. persimmon. COMPOTE coMporE DE DE KAKIS KAKrs -- Made Made from from very very Stewed ripe fruit, fruit, in in the the same same way way as as stewed stewed apricots (q.v.). apricots (q.v.). ripe PESTLE. prI.oN

Wood, metaJ metal or porcelain instrument or porcelain instrument used used PESTLE. PILON -- Wood, pounding in for pounding in aa mortar. mortar. for

PETERAMSheep's tripe prepared in tripe as as prepared in Luchon. Luchon. PETER AM - Sheep's PETITE MARMITE MARMITE --The petite marmite marmite isis one one of of the the best best PETITE The petite specialities of of Paris Paris restaurants. restaurants. This This method method of of serving serving specialities consomm6 in in the the earthenware earthenware receptacle receptacle in in which which itit was was consommé cooked was was invented invented in in Paris Paris sorne some 80 years ago, 80 years ago, and and the the cooked vogue for petite marmite soup soup spread spread to to the the restaurants restaurants of the vogue for petite marmite old world and the new. new. and the old worid The petite marmite con contains all the the ingredients ingredients which go to to The petite marmite tains all make dish, i.e. of meat, meat, oxtail, poultry, oxtail, poultry, make up up this this dish, i.e. lean lean pieces pieces of marrow stock-pot vegetables, addition of of marrow bones bones and and stock-pot vegetables, with the addition little The soup soup is with sm small !ittle cabbage cabbage balls. balls. The is usually usually served with ail pieces pieces of of toast toast spread spread with with bone bone marrow, marrow, rusks sprinkled with or thin of with stockpot stockpot fat fat and and dried dried in in the the oven. oyen, or thin ilices slices of French French bread bread dried dried in in th th the the oven oyen and sprinkled with grated cheese. cheese.

Forthe themethod methodofofpreparation preparationofofthe petitemarmite, thepetite marmite,seesee For SOUPSAND ANDBROTHS, BROTHS,Clear Clearsoups. soups. SOUPS

PETITMAURE MAURE- -See SeeRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTSOF OFBYGONE BYGONE PETIT DAYS. DAYS. PETITSFOURS FOURS(Pâtisserie) (Pitisserie)- - Name Nameadopted adoptedfor formany many PETITS kindsofofsm small fancycakes cakesand andbiscuits. biscuits. kinds ail fancy Thename, name,according accordingtotoCarême, Cardme,cornes comesfrom fromthe thefact factthat The that theyare areusually usually baked bakedinina aslow slowoyen, oven,after afterthe thebig bigcakes they cakeshave have comeout outand andthe thetemperature temperatureofofthe gonedown. theoyen ovenhas hasgone come down. Thereare aretwo twokinds kindsofofpelitsfours. Thefirst firstincludes includesailallthe There petitsfours. The the littlefancy fancybiscuits (cookies),tuiles, biscuits(cookies), paletsdededames, tuiles,palets little dames,macmacaroons, shortbreads,etc. etc.The Thesecond secondcovers coversthe theiced petits aroons, shortbreads, iced,petits usuallysmall smallGenoese Genoesecake cakefancies fanciesdipped dippedinto fours, fours,usually intoFonFondanticing. icing. dant Thereare areother petits fourswhich otherpetitsfours whichbelong There belongmore moreininthe therealm realm ofconfectionery confectionery than pastry-making, such thanpastry-making, of suchasascandied candiedfruit fruit soldininthe theshops shopsininFrance France under underthe thename nameof sold offruits ddguisis, fruitsdéguisés, asweil wellasasmarzipan marzipan fruits, fruits,moulded moulded inindifferent as different shapes shapesand and coloured. coloured. PETITS-PIEDS - -French Frenchmen menu PETITS-PIEDS u terrn be al! termused usedtotodescri describe allthe the smallbirds, birds,such suchas asblackbirds, blackbirds, thrushes, small thrushes, ortolans, ortolans,larks, larks,etc. etc. PETITS POIS POIS -- Term Term for forfresh freshgarden garden peas. PETITS peas. PETS-DE-NONNE -- See SeeFRlTTERS, FRITTERS, Soufflé PETS-DE-NONNE Souffii fritters. fritters. PFANNKUCHEN (Austriancookery). (Austrian cookery). FAN-KOUKE-Roll PFANNKUCHEN FAN-KouKE- Rollout out Brioche dough (see DOUGH) dough (see DOUGH) f cm.(.t(f inch) Brioche inch)thick. thick. Cut Cutrounds rounds with aa pastry pastry cutter, cutter, about (21to with to 22 inches) about 66 to to 88cm. cm.(2t inches)inin diameter. In In the the middle middle of diameter. put 1I tablespoon of these these put tablespoon rather rather thick thick apricot purée. pur6e. Moisten Moisten the apricot the edges edges with with water, water, coyer cover with with rounds of of the the sa same press the size, and rounds me size, and press the edges edges firrnly firmly together. together. Putthe pfannkuchen on Put the pfannkuchen floured cloth on aafioured cloth and and leave leave in inaawarm wann place to to rise. rise. Fry Fry them, place them, drain, drain, and and immerse immerse in in hot hot rum rum syrup. syrup.

tcm.

plum tart PFLAUMENKUCHEN (German (German cookery) PFLAUMENKUCHEN cookery) -- Plum tart made made in the the German German way. (See TART, in way. (See TART, Fruit Fruit tart tart àd l'allemande.) I'allemande.\

PHEASANT. FAISAN PHEASANT. r,c,rsA,N -- Phasianus Phasianus isis the the Latin Latin name name of of this this phasis, succulent bird, succulent lied the bird, which which the the ancients ancients ca called the bird bird of of Phasis, the river of the of Colchide Colchide which which separated separated Europe Europe from from Aisa. Aisa. This This bird of of Phasis, Phasis, originally bird originally aa native native of of the the Caspian Caspian region, region, has has multiplied in game preserves multip!ied in game preserves in in Europe, Europe, without without losing losing anything ofits of its distinctive distinctive fiavour, flavour, which which isis essentially essentially that that of of wild bird. aa wild Brillat-Savarin, who Brillat-Savarin, prized itit very who prized very highly, highly, tells tells us us in in his his Variitis that 'the pheasant is an enigma Variétés enigma to which which only only experts experts have the key, and they alone can can savour savour it in in ail all its its excellence. excellence.

Petits Petitsfours fours(C/aire) (Claire)

lced petits petits fours fours (Larousse\ (Larousse) Iced

686 686

PHEASANT PHEASANT

Cock (left) (Ieft) and and hen hen (right) (right) pheasant pheasant Cock (J. (J. Boyer) Boyer)

45 minutes. minutes. about 45 for about butter for in butter breast. breast. Cook in in aa casserole in (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) tablespoons (3 Just serving, pour Just before before serving, pour 22 tablespoons of few tablespoons tablespoons of pheasant, and and aa few blazingbrandy blazing brandy over the pheasant, dish. game essence. Serve in the cooking dish. game for as for Proceed as AUx CHOUX cHoux-- Proceed FAIsAN AUX cabbage. FAISAN Pheasant with cabbage. Pbeasant (see PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). cabbage (see Partridge with cabbage EN COCOTTEcocorrr EN CASSEROLE, FAISAN EN cAssERoLE, EN Casserole of pheasant. FAISAN the against the tightly against pressed tightly legs pressed the legs Truss the pheasant with the is When itit is casserole. When earthenware casserole. breast. Cook in butter in an earthenware (3 tablespoons (3 to 33 tablespoons and 22 to pour aa littJe brandy and little brandy cooked, pour cooked, it. game stock stock over over il. cup) game to scant scant -k* cup) tablespoons to tablespoons EN FAISAN EN mushrooms. FAISAN pheasant with with mushrooms. Casserole of of pheasant Casserole pheasant as for as for the pheasant AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPrcNoNs-Prepare cAssERoLE AUX CASSEROLE - Prepare the 12 add 12 half-cooked, add pheasant When When itit isis half-cooked, Casserole of of pheasant. Casserole together. all together. cooking ail Finish cooking the stalks. stalks. Finish without the mushrooms without pheasant. of pheasant. Finish as as for for Casserole Casserole of Finish Brown aa EN CHARTREUSE cHARTREUsn -- Brown FAISAN EN chartreuse. FAISAN Pheasant en en chartreuse. Pheasant for Chartreuse Chartreuse indicated for as indicated and proceed as in the the oyen oven and pheasant in (see PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). of partridge (see ofpartridge name Another name EN COCOTTE cocorrg -- Another FATSAN EN Pheasant en en cocotte. cocotte. FAISAN Pbeasant given above. above. recipe isis given which the the recipe for Casserole of pheasant,for Casserole ofpheasant, for for which mushgarnished with large mushwith large was garnished dish was In former former times times this this dish In pear shapes, cooked shapes, cooked into small small pear potatoes trimmed trimmed into rooms and and potatoes rooms pheasant. with the the pheasant. with of proceed as for Casserole Casserole of garnish, proceed as for without this this garnish, With or or without With pheasant. pheasant. pot-roasting in in of pot-roasting the method method of indicates the The term cocotte indicates term en en cocotte The (cocotte). Pheasant en cocotte cocotle Pheasant en dish (cocotte). fireproof earthenware earthenware dish aa fireproof case itit isis garnishes but this case but inin this served with with various various garnishes can be be served can (see dish (see name of garnish by of the thedish the name by the indicate the the garnish desirable to to indicate desirable GARNTSHES). GARNISHES). rl rN COCOTTE cocorrr ÀALA FAIsAN EN with cream. cream. FAISAN cocotte with Pheasant en en cocotte Pheasant the pressed against against the legs pressed pheasant with the legs with the Truss the the pheasant CRÈME cnirrar -- Truss 2| Pour on on 2i cooked. Pour three-parts cooked. butter until until three-parts breast. Cook Cook inin butter breast. cooking, Finish cooking, cream.Finish (scant -i-f pint, pint, generous generous cup) fresh cream. cup) fresh dl. (scant dl. before cream' Just Just before thecream. pheasant frequently with the frequently with basting the the pheasant basting juice. lemon juice. of lemon serving, add squeeze of serving, add aasqueeze for this thisdish. dish. used for may be be used Soured cream cream may Soured as Proceedas FAISAN - - Proceed DEFAISAN cRoQUETTEsDE Pheasant croquettes. Pheasant croquettes. CROQUETTES (see CHICKEN), salpicon usingaasalpicon CHICKEN), using for Chicken uoquettes(see for Chicken croquettes white blendedininwhite (q.v.) of pheasant, truffies mushrooms blended andmushrooms truffies and (q.v.) of pheasant, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). or or brown brown sauce sauce (see made Theseare are made FATsAN- - These DEFAISAN c6rernrrns DE Pheasant Pheasant cutlets. cutlets.CÔTELETTES for cooking, asasfor before cooking, off before cutoff thebird, bird, cut with breast of of the with the the breast garnishes andgarnishes recipes and All recipes (seeCHICKEN). CHICKEN). Ali Chicken côtelettes (see Chickenciltelettes pheasant cutlets. cutlets' forpheasant for for these suitablefor these are aresuitable supr€rnes. called suprêmes. Small Small cuts cutsare areoften oftencalled raIsll ÀALAra (Russian cookery). g6orgienne (Russian cookery). FAISAN Pheasant Pheasant ài lalagéorgienne legs thelegs with the pheasanten entrde,with enentrée, GÉORGIENNE Trussthe the pheasant cfoncENNE- - Truss Bardit.it. pressed against pressed thebreast. breast. Bard against the walnuts' skinnedwalnuts. andskinned shelled and Put with30 30shelled Put ititininaacasserole casserolewith

flesh is is tender, 'Eaten at precisely the right moment, its flesh and highly highly flavoured, for it has has at once something of sublime and sublime the flavour flavour ofpoultry ofpoultry and and ofvenison. ofvenison. the 'This ideal ideal moment moment is is when wh en the the pheasant pheasant begins begins to 'This

decompose. Then Then its its aroma develops develops in an oily essence which decompose. fermentation to to reach reach perfection, perfection, like like the a little little fermentation requires a roasting.' aroma of of coffee coffee which manifests manifests itself itself only through through roasting.'

preserved in in their Experiment has has proved proved that that birds birds preserved Experiment

much more aroma feathers have have much aroma than those left stripped for a feathers of robs them them of air robs the air time, either because exposure exposure to the long time, (in the case sorne case of unplucked because (in some of their aroma, or because absorbed into the flesh birds) sorne some of of the oil in the feathers is absorbed and gives it added flavour. far The common pheasant pheasant is now found ail all over Europe, as far the from the away sprung from have sprung Various breeds breeds have as Siberia. away as Siberia. Various original Phasis species. Among them them the the following provide species. Among the best mm on pheasant, pheasant, the the golden pheasant the the co common best eating: eating: the alone, and the si/ver pheasant. The common pheasant, almost alone, silver pheasant.Thecommon for is rather for are rather breeds are The other other breeds is used used for for the the table. table. The ornament. prefer the True the hen hen bird prefer this savoury savoury bird True connoisseurs connoisseurs of of this pheasant the cock cock of the pheasant to features of The distinctive distinctive features cock. The to the the cock. pheasant its longer than than its pheasant are which isis longer its tail, tail, which of its are the the shape shape of and whole body, are iridescent iridescent and which are feathers, which body, and its neck neck feathers, and its its shot tail, and and its green. The short tail, The hen has aa short hen has with blue blue and and green. shot with plumage the of the than that that of in colouring colouring than plumage is is much less brilliant brilliant in much less cock. A bird an old old bird from an pheasant can A yearling pheasant be distinguished distinguished from can be young bird by the first bird pointed in in aa young feather, which which isis pointed first wing-tip wing-tip feather, part of and the of the the upper upper part When the rounded in one. When old one. and rounded in an an old pheasant's that be certain certain that pheasant's beak is one can can be to the the touch, touch, one is pliable to itit is yearling bird. is aa yearling bird.

HOT cHAUDS -DISHES. FAISANS FAISANS CHAUDS HOT PHEASANT PHEASANT DISHES. Pheasant Name t'llsAcnNNE -- Name Pheasant ài l'alsacienne. FAISAN ÀA L'ALSACIENNE I'alsacienne. FAISAN given in prepared as indicated in as indicated given to pheasant with sauerkraut, prepared to pheasant with sauerkraut, the the recipe recipe below. below. Pheasant Slit aa r'lc,IvrEnrcaNe -- Slit FAIsAN ÀA L'AMÉRICAINE Pheasant ài l'américaine. I'am5ricaine. FAISAN pheasant gently. Season Season pheasant along flatten gently. and flatten Open and back. Open along the the back. with sides. both sides. quickly in butter on on both in butter pepper. Sauté Saut6 quickly with salt salt and and pepper. Coat seasoned breadcrumbs seasoned freshly made made breadcrumbs Coat both both sides sides with with freshly with pheasant slowly. slowly' pepper. Grill Grill the the pheasant with aa touch touch of cayenne pepper. of cayenne Coyer grilled garnish with with grilled grilled bacon and garnish bacon and Cover with with slices slices of of grilled tomatoes potato and potato bunches ofwatercress of watercress and tomatoes and and mushrooms, mushrooms, bunches crisps. (see BUTTER, BUTTER, butter (see d'h6tel butter Serve with with Maître Maitre d'hôtel crisps. Serve Compound Compound butters). butters). Pheasant Slit soHEIvrInNNr - - Slit L,c' BOHÉMIENNE FAIsAN ÀALA Pheasant ài la la bobémienne. boh6mienne. FAISAN along the breastbreastpheasant and removethe and remove the pheasant along the the front. front. Draw Draw the bone. (q.v.) studded with gras (q.v.) studded with cold foie small cold bone. Stuff Stuff with with aa small foie gras truffies, for 1515 paprika and cooked for and cooked salt and and paprika truffies, seasoned seasoned with with salt minutes minutes ininMadeira. Madeira. Truss the pressed tightly against the tightly against legspressed the legs the bird, bird, with with the Truss the

687 687

PHEASANT

PHEASANT

Moisten with the juice of 3 oranges and 750 g. (lt lb.) grapes Moisten with the juice or 3 oranges and 750 g. (lllb.) grapes squeezed and strained, I glass of malmsey and ths sbme squeezed strained, 1 glass of malmsey and the same amount and of a very strong infusion of green tea. Add 3 amount of a very strong infusion of green tea. Add 3 tablespoons (scant butter. Seasonwith withsalt saltand pepper. andpepper. tablespoons (scant;j-fcup) CUp) butter. Season Cover the pheasant and cook in this mixture for aUoui +S Cover the pheasant and cook in this mixture for about 45 minutes. Drain. Untruss and remove barding. Brown it, and minutes. Untruss and remove barding. Brown it, and put it onDrain. a dish surrounded with fresh walnuts. pour on the put it on a dish surrounded with fresh Pour on the cooking stock, boiled down with a few walnuts. tablespoons of ofbrown brown cooking stock, boilcd down with a few tablespoons stock added or game essence, and strained. stock added or game essence, and strained. Grilld pheasant. FATSAN cnrlrE This method is generally Grilled pheas!lnt. FAISAN GRILLE - - This method is generally used for very young pheasant. Slit the bird along the Uact. used for very young pheasant. Slit the bird along the back. Open_and flatten gently. Season with salt and pepper. Coat Open and Ilatten gcntly. Season with salt and pepper. Coat with butter, and dip in breadcrumbs; grill stowty, as for with butter, and dip in breadcrumbs; grill slowly, as for Grilled chicken diable (see CHICKEN). Grilled chicken diable (see CHICK EN). Grilled pheasant is served with devilled sauce (see SAUCE, Grilled pheasant is served with devilled sauce (see SA UCE, Diable sauce or Pirigueux sauce). Diable sauce or Perigueux sauce). Pheasant i la languedocienne. FATsAN A LA Pheasant à la languedocienne, FAlSAN À LA LANGUEDocTENNE Joint a pheasant. Season with salt and LANGIJEDOCŒNNE -- Joint a pheasant. Season with salt and pepper. Make amirepoix (q.v.) of carrots, onions, celery and pepper. Make a mirepoix (q.v.) ofcarrots, onions, celery and lean raw ham seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered tiryme lean raw ham seasoned with salt, pepper, powdered thyme and bay leaf. Cook slowly until very tender. put the pheasant and bay leaf. Cook slowly until very tender. Put the pheasant

in the pan with this mirepox.

Brown and and sprinkle sprinkG with with 22 in the pan with this mirepoix. Brown tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour. Cook the flour until it is tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fiOUL Cook the fjour until it is golden in colour. Moisten with dl. (| pint, lf cups) red wine golden in colom. Moisten with 33 dl. (1 pint, lieups) red wine and mix well. Add a few tablespoons clear stockind a small and mix garni weil. Add few tablespoons clear stock and a smalt bouquet (q.v.).a Cover, and cook for 35 minutes. bouquet garni (q. v.). Cover, and cook for 35 minutes. Drain the pheasant. Put it in an ovenware dish with g small Drain the pheasanl. Put it in an ovenware pour dish with 8 small mushrooms and 12 thick strips of truffle. on 22 tabletablemushrooms and 12 thick strips of trul1le. Pour on spoons (3 tablespoons) brandy. Moisten with the strained spoons (3 tablespoons) brandy. Moisten with the strained sauce and add butter. Put the lid on the dish, seal the edges sauce and add butter. Put the lid on dish, seal the edges with flour-and-water paste. Stand the water and and cook cook in in the ihe with fiour-and-water paste. Stand in in water oven for 35 minutes. Serve in the baking dish. oven for 35 minutes. Serve in the baking dish. Pheasant i la normande. r,c,rsA.r.r A r,c, NonMA.NDE Brown à la normande, FAISAN À LA NORMANDE '.- Brown pheasant thePheasanl in butter and put it in an ovenware dish dish or the pheasant in butter and put it in an ovenware or casserole lined with a layer of peeled, sweet apples casserole lined with a layer of peeled, sliced sliced sweet apples lightly browned in butter. Surround the pheasant lightly browned in butter. Surround the pheasant with with apples apples prepared in the same way. Cook prepared in the same way. Cook in in aa slow slow oven. oYen. Just Just before before serving, pour fresh cream and a little Calvados over it. serving, pour fresh cream and a !iule Calvados over il. Pheasant i la perigueux. FATsAN n r,c, pfRrcurux Truffied - Truffled Pheasanl à la périgueux, FAISAN À LA PÉRIGUEUX· pheasant, pot-roasted instead of roasted. is served on a slice pheasant, pot-roasted instead of roasted. It lt is served on a slice of bread fried in butter and surrounded by large forcemeat of bread fried in butter and surrounded by large forcemeat

'With the themeat, meat, make makeaastuffing bychopping stuffing by chopping itit with with 'With steamed beef beefbone-marrow, bone-marrow, aalittle gratedpork littlegrated porkfat, pepper, fat,pepper, steamed salt,fines (qx.), herbes(q. quantity of andaaquantity good truffles truffies enough ofgood enbugh sai t,fines herbes v.), and pheasant completely. stuffthe thepheasant completely. totostuff 'Take care putininthe care to toput thestuffing stuffing ininsuch such aaway waythat that none none 'Take fallsout. out.This This isissometimes sometimes difficult difficult when whenthe thebird UiiO isisrather rather falls old.There Thereare are various various ways waysof ofachieving achieving this thisend. end.One One isisto to old. cut aaslice sliceof of bread breadand and tie tie itit to tothe thebird bird with with string, string, so soas asto to eut sealits its breast. breast. seal 'Cut aaslice sliceof of bread bread which which overlaps overlaps the pheasant thelaid-out laid-out pheasant 'Cut from neck neck to to tail tail by by55cm. cm.(2(2inches). inches). Next Next take take the the liver liverand and from entrails of of the the woodcock. woodcock. Pound Pound inin aa mortar mortar with with 22 large large entrails truffles, 1I anchovy, anchovy, aa little grated pork little grated pork fat piece of good fat and and aa piece ofgood trumes, fresh butter. butter. fresh 'Toast the put itit the bread bread and and spread spread this paste evenly this paste evenly on it. Put on il. 'Toast under the pheasant, prepared the pheasant, prepared as as indicated indicated above, above, so so that that the the under bread will will be thoroughly impregnated be thoroughly impregnated with with the the roastingjuice. roasting juice. bread When the pheasant isis cooked, the pheasant cooked, serve serve it, it, elegantly elegantly couched, couclied, on on When the slice slice of of bread. bread. Surround Surround with with Seville (BrillatSeville oranges.' oranges.' (Brillatthe Savarin, Physiologie Physiologie du gofit.) du goût.) Savarin, Salmis of pheasant. SALM1S of pbeasanl, sALMrs DE DE FAISAN FATsAN - Roast Roast the pheasant the pheasant -inSalmis the oyen oven or or on on the the spit spit until until itit isis three-quarters three-quarterJcooked. in the cooked. put them Joint il. it. Trim Trim the pieces and the pieces and skin skin them. them. Put them in in aa buttered buttered Joint pan. Coyer (5 OZ., Cover with with 150 g. (5 150 g. oz., li l{ cups) cups) mushrooms tossed tossed in in pan. (whole if butter (whole if they they are are small, small, sliced sliced if if they they are are large) large) and and butter pour on g. (5 (5 OZ., 150 g. oz., I! lj cups) cups) shredded shredded trumes. truffies. POlir on 44 ta table150 ble(* cup) Espagnole spoons (-lEspagnole sauce, santce,based on concentra conc€ntrated spoons based on ted game "up) (see SAUCE). stock (see SAUCE). Keep Keep hot, hot, but do do not boil. stock Chop the the carcase carcase and and the the trimmings. trimmings. Brown them slightly them slightly Chop in aa pan pan in in which which 44 tablespoons tablespoons (~ trai in $ cup) mirepoix (q.v.) 1q.v.y has been cooked. cooked. Moisten Moisten with with the cooking cooking stock stock of the pheabeen sant, diluted diluted with (+ pint, dl. (t scant cup) cup) white wine. Boil sant, with 22 dl. pint, seant down. M Moisten with l} lt dl. dl. (f pint, cup) Espagnole sauce (sec (see down. oisten with pint, i3 cup) SAUCE) game stock. Cook for SAUCE) based based on on concentrated concentrated game for 15 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain the the sauce sauce through through aa fine fine strainer, strainer, pressing pressing with with the the back hack of of aa spoon spoon so so as as to extract all ail the the juice juice from the meat meat and and vegetables. vegetables. Strain Strain this this sauce once more through muslin. Add Z muslin. Boil Boil down. down. Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) blazing and 4 hlazing brandy brandy and 4 tablespoons tablespoons (* (1 cup) cup) butter. butter. Mix Mi" and pour pour over over the the pheasant. pheasant. Heat, Heat, but but do do not not boil. boil. Drain Drain the the pheasant pheasant and and arrange arrange the the joints joints in in a pyramid pyramid on on aa slice sliee of of bread hread fried fried in in butter, butter, spread spread with with IÀ gratin grmin game game (see put forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) and and brown brown in in the the oven. oYen. Put the the mushrooms mushrooms and and trufres trumes on on top. top. pour Pour the the sauce, sauce, piping piping hot, hot, over over the the dish. dish. Instead Instead of of serving serving the the salmis salmis on on aa slice slice of of bread bread itit may may be be put put in in aa deep deep dish dish or or aa shallow shallow bowl. bowl. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over itit and and garnish garnish with with slices sliees of of fried fried bread bread cut eut into into heart heart shapes shapes and and spread spread withd with à gratin gratin gameforcemeat. gameforcemeal. Salmis Salmis of of pheasant pheasanl in in red red wine. willC. sarurs SALMlS DE DE FATsAN FAISAN AU AU vrN VIN RoucE. ROUGE. Proceed Proceed as as indicated indicated above, ahove, moistening moistening with with red red instead white wine. instead of ofwhite wine. Sauteed Sauléed pheasant. pheasant. FATSAN FAISAN s,tur6, SAUTÉ, sAUT6 SAUTÉ DE DE FATSAN FAISAN -- pheaPheasant sant isisseldom seldomprepared prepared ininthis thisway. way. AAtender tenderyoung youngpheasant pheasant can, can, however, however,be besaut6ed. sautéed. Joint Joint the the bird, bird, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and saut6 sauté slowly slowlyininbutter, butter,taking ta kingcare carenot notto todry dryit.il. Pour Pour over over itit the the cooking cooking stock stock diluted diluted with with white white wine wine or or any anyother otherwine, wine,according accordingtotothe therecipe, recipe,flavoured flavouredwith withaalittle little concentrated concentratedgame gameor orveal vealstock, stock,with withbutter hutteradded. addcd. Pheasant Pheasanl drlilalaSouvarov. Souvarov.FATsAN FAISANAÀr,c. LA souvlRov SOUVAROV-- Stuffthe Stuff the pheasant pheasantwith withaacoarse coarsesalpicon salpicon(q.v.) (q.v.)ofoffoie gras andtrufres and trurnes foie gras seasoned seasonedwith withsalt, salt,pepper pepperand andspice, spice,and andwith withbrandy brandypoured poured over overit.il. Truss Trussthe thebird birdwith withthe thelegs legspressed pressedagainst againstthe thebreast. breast.Bard Bard itit and and cook cook inin butter butter until until three-quarters three-quarters cooked. cooked. Untruss Untruss and and untie untiethe the barding. barding. Put Put itit inin an an earthenware earthenware dish dish with with 12 12 medium-sized medium-sized truffles, truffles, tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Moisten Moisten with with

(s

balls made from Game forcemeat with iruffies (see balls made l'rom Game forcemeat with truffles (see FORCEMEATS pirigueux or STUFFINGS). Serve with FORCE MEATS or STUFFINGS). Serve with Périgueux

sauce (see SAUCE) with the cooking stock added to it. sauce (see SAUCE) with the cooking stock added to it. Hot pheasant pie - See PIE, Game pies.

Hot pheasanl pie- Sec PIE, Game pies. Pheasant pie with truffles. rouRTE DE FATsAN AUx TRUFFEs Pheasanl pie wilh truffles, TOCRTE DE FAISAN AUX TRUFFESProceed, using pheasant, as indicated for for Woodcock Woodcock pie pie with wilh truffies (see WOODCOCK). Iruffles (see WOODCOCK). Pheasant pur6e. pun6r DE FATsAN - pur6e made from potPheasalll purée. PURÉE DE FAISAN - Purée made from potroasted pheasant or pheasant scraps. It is used for filing roasted pheasant or pheasant scraps. It is used for filling smallyol-au-vent, barquettes, or tartlets. proceed as indicated small vol-ou-vent, barque Iles, or tartlets. Proceed as indicated for Purde of woodcock (see WOODCOCK). for Purée ofwoodcock (see WOODCOCK). Roast pheasant. FATsAN ndu - Truss and bard the breast Roasl pheasanl, FAISAN RÔn - Truss and bard the breast with a large slice of pork fat. Tie the fat with string. Baste the with a large slice of pork fat. Tie the fat with string. Baste the pheasant with melted butter. Season. Roast in a hbt oven for pheasant with melted butter. Season. Roast in a hot oven for about 30 minutes. If the pheasant is roasted on the spit, allow about 30 minutes. If the pheasant is roasted on the spit, allow a few minutes longer for cooking. a few minutes longer for cooking. Untruss the pheasant and put it on a slice of fried bread, Untruss the pheasant and put it on a slice of fried bread, spread with d gratin game forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) if spread with à gratin game forcemeat (see FORCEM EA TS) if desired. (The stuffing should be made with the chopped liver desired. (The stuffing should be made with the chopped liver of the pheasant.) Garnish with watercress and lemon. Serve of the pheasanl.) Garnish with watercress and lemon. Serve the cooking stock, diluted, with it. the cooking stock, diluted, with il. Pheasant i la Sainte-Alliance. FArsAN.n le sarrqr-^tt.I,rANcE Phcasanl à la Sainle-AJliance, FAISAN À LA SAINT-ALLIANCE pluck a pheasant, hung until it perfect -'Take - 'Take a pheasant, hung until itisis perfeettotoeat. eal. Pluckititand and interlard it carefully with the freshest and firmest pork fat you interlard it carefully with the freshest and firmest pork fat you can find. can find. 'Take 2 woodcocks. Bone and draw them and make 2 piles, 'Take 2 woodcocks. Bone and draw them and make 2 piles, one of the meat, the other of the entrails and livers. one of the mcat, the other of the entrails and livers. Pro-ceed, using pheasant, as indicated

688 688

PHEASANT PHEASANT the cooking cooking stock stock diluted diluted with with Madeira. Madeira. Add Add 22 dl. dl. ($ (t pint, pint, the scant scant cup) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce based based on on concentrated concentrated game game brandy(see (seeSAUCE). SA UCE). stockwith withaalittle littlebrandy stock Cover Coverthe thedish dish and and seal se alwith withflour-and-water flour-and-waterpaste. paste. Finish Finish cooking cookingininthe theoven ovenfor for l515to to l818minutes. minutes. pheasant. supnErvres SuprCmes Suprêmesofofpheasant. sUPRÊMESDE DEFAIsAN FAISAN-- Cut Cutoffthe off thethe the wings wings and and breasts breasts of ofthe the pheasant pheasant before before cooking cooking(these (these are are the thesuprilmes). suprêmes). Poach Poachthem them or orsaut6 sautéthem them in inbutter, butter, and and serve serve withvarious various sauces sauces and and garnishes. garnishes. with All Ail recipes recipes for for supr4mes suprêmes of of chicken chicken (see (see CHICKEN) CHICKEN) are are suitable for forsuprdmes suprêmes of ofpheasant. pheasant. suitable Trufled TrutJIed pheasant. pheasant. FAIsAN FAISAN rnurrn TRUFFÉ -- Pheasant Pheasant isis truffied truffled in in same way way as as young young turkey turkey (see (see TURKEY). TURKEY). the same the For For aa medium-sized medium-sized truffied truffled pheasant pheasant use use 350 350 g' g. (12 (12 oz-) oz.) fresh pork pork suet su et and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) truffies. truffles. Cook Cook for for 50 50 to to 55 55 fresh minutes in in aa medium medium oven, oven, or or for for 55 55 minutes minutes to to an an hour hour on on minutes the spit. spit. the T[e The bird bird must must be be truffled truffted at at least least 24 24 hours hours before before cookcook· ing. ing.

Decorate with mould mould with withjelly jelly and and put put in in the the aiguillettes. aiguillettes. Decorate with strips of truffie' slices slicescut cutfrom fromthe the mignonfillets mignon filletsand andwith with strips oftruffle. jelly. Leave to set in a Fill Fi1\ the the mould mould with with clear clear game game jelly. Leave to set in a aspic straight on to a the out Turn cooler. or refrigerator refrigerator or cooler. Turn out the aspic straight on to a size of the mould and dish dish or oron ontotoaaslice sliceof ofbread bread cut cutto tothe the size of the mould and

buttered. buttered. jelly and a border of Surround Surround the the aspic aspic with with chopped chopped jelly and a border of a pastry-cutter. with shaped rounds ofjelly rounds ofjelly shaped with a pastry-cutter. recipe). BALLoTTINE pheasant ininjelly Ballottine ielly (Car6me's Ballottineofofpheasaot (Carême's recipe). BALLOTTINE 'Take a Strasbourgfoie gras. Soak in DE DE FAIsAN FAISAN AÀ r,c.bnrfn LA GELÉE -- 'Take a Strasbourgfoie gras. Soak in and trim. into 44 fillets cold cald water water and and blanch. blanch. Cut Cut each each half halfinto fillets and trim. a mortar with the trimmings and in fillets 2 these 'Pound of 'Pound 2 ofthese fillets in a mortar with the trimmings and of pork fat' the the meat meat of ofaa red red partridge partridge with with an an equal equal weight weight of pork fat. yolks andfines herbes Season Season the the mixturi mixture very very well. we1l. Add Add 22 egg egg yolks and fines herbes (By'fties herbes', tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Pound Pound the the lot lot thoroughly.' thoroughly.' (By 'fines herbes', Car6me Carême means means cultivated cultivated mushrooms.) mushrooms.) Carefully bone a 'Rub 'Rub the the stuffing stuffing through through aa quenelle quenelle sieve. sieve. Carefully bone a and season very well-hung, well-hung, fat fat pheasant. pheasant. Lay Lay itit on on aa cloth c10th and season very then 3 fillets of the the it half well. weIl. Layln Layon top top of ofit halfthe the stuffing, stuffing, and and then 3 fillets of truffies. Add as gras, interspersing foie foie gras, interspersing these these with with halved halved truffies. Add as the whole much Spiced Spiced salt salt (see (see SALT) SALT) as as required. required. Cover Cover the who le -.tc[ the remaining with with half halfthe remaining stuffing. stuffing. halves of truffie' the/o ie gras 'Lay on top 'Layon top the the rest rest of ofthefoie gras and and the the halves oftruffle. stuffing. Fold the Season Season and and cover cover with with the the rest rest of of the the stuffing. Fold jelly the and cook in pheasant pheasant into into shape. shape. Wrap Wrap in in aa cloth. c1oth. Tie Tie and cook in jelly been added the itock stock flavoured flavoured with with Madeira, Madeira, to to which which have have been added the partridge. and trimmings bones bones and trimmings of of the the pheasant pheasant and and partridge. Glaze light weight' cool under to cool 'Leave the 'Leave the ballottine ballottine to under aa light weight. Glaze jelly way.' usual in the with withjelly in the usual way.' Truss a EN cHAUD-FRoIn pheasant. FAIsAN of pheasant. Chaud-froid of Chaud-froid FAISAN EN CHAUD-FROID -- Truss a Cook in breast. Cook the breast. against the pressed against legs pressed pheasant with with the pheasant the legs in pinkish. Joint the remains pinkish. meat remains the meat that the care that taking care 6utter, taking butter, Joint the them. pieces and trim them. and trim skin the the pieces bird, skin bird, (see SAUCE) prebrown (see sauce, brown with Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce, Coat with Coat SAUCE) prewith flavoured with game stock stock flavoured with game way, with pared in in the the usual usual way, pared pheasant with pieces of the pieces of pheasant with Decorate the of truffles. truffies. Decorate issence of essence eggs hard-boiled of whites the shapes, fancy into cut truffies truffles cut into fancy shapes, the whites of hard-boiled eggs jelly (see half-set jelly into half-set dipped into motifs, dipped decorative motifs, and other other decorative and (see put on bird. the bird. on the are put they are before they stock) before Game jelly JELLY, Game ielly stock) JELLY, jelly. joints a refrigerator. in Chill in a refrigerator. with jelly. Chili Glaze the the joints with Glaze the Arrange the bread. Arrange sandwich bread. buttered sandwich with buttered Line aa dish dish with Line platform of bread and the the on legs with the pheasant it, on pheasant on it, with the legs on the platform of bread and the chopped jelly (use a with chopped Surround with top. Surround on top. wings on and wings breast and breast jelly (use a jelly be discoloured)' piped it may is the jelly is piped it may be discoloured). for this; this; ifif the spoon for spoon pastry cutter' with aa pastry out with cut out ofjelly, cut of rounds ofjelly, border ofrounds Make aa border Make cutter. game the winged poultry or of all chauds-froids As with As with aIl chauds-froids of poultry or winged game the glass bowl or deep in aaglass served in pheasant en en chaud-froid chaud'froidcanbe pheasant can be served bowl or deep jelly. clear jelly. with clear coated with dish. and and coated silver sil ver dish, DeuneA Le cet,fs- Slit FAISANEN pheasantinielly. Daubeof Daube ofpheasant iojeUy. FAISAN EN DAUBE À LA GELÉE- Slit Season inside and stuff it. bone and back pheasant the along a a pheasant along the back and bone it. Season inside and stuff gameforcemeat gratin game veal,ÀAgratin leanveal, of Jean made of forcemeai made withaaforcemeat with forcerneat (scant tablespoons gras 3 with andfoie (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) andfoie gras with 3 tablespoons (scant (see (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) game essence and 22 tablespoons essence and cup) game 1-* cup) egg yolks' or22egg with 1Ior bind with welland and bind Seasonweil aaa.a. Season brandy added. brandy yolks. put in the and pheasant the on evenly stuffing the Spread Spread the stuffing evenly on the pheasant and put in the quarters raw 4large with gras studded middle halfa half araw foiegras studded with 41arge raw quarters middle raw foie brandy' pouron littlebrandy. onaalittle saltand andpour spicedsalt withspiced Season with of truffie. Season oftruffie. legs pressed the with Truss into shape. pheasant Fold the Fold the pheasant into shape. Truss with the legs pressed and potfatand of porkfat sliceofpork thinslice withaathin Bardwith thibreast. breast. Bard against the potagainst hour. minutes toto1Ihour. for4545minutes roastininMadeira Madeirafor roast Put pork fat' the remove and Untrussand remove the pork fat. Put pheasant. Untruss Drainthe thepheasant. Drain stock cookingstock thecooking withthe Moistenwith dish.Moisten anearthenware earthenwaredish. ititininan jellyadded (game jelly for added(game (scantpint, pint,2l cups)jelly dl.(scant with55dl. with 2i cups) jelly for preference). preference). Before hours' 12 least for at thoroughly for at least 12 hours. Before coolthoroughly Leavetotocool Leave the jelly' ofthe surfaceof onthe thesurface faton filmofoffat offthe skimoff servingskim serving the film jelly. ps rlrslN A I-l GALANTINEDE pheasantininjelly. Galantineofofpheasant ielly.GALANTINE Galantine FAISAN À LA pheasant in ielly. of for Ballottine as Proceed cel-tE GELÉE - -Proceed as for Ballottine ofpheasant injelly.

COLD PHEASANT PHEASANT DISHES. DISHES. FAISANS FAISANS FRoIDs. FROIDS COLD

Pheasaot aspic aspic ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. AsPIc ASPIC DE DE FAIsLt'I FAISAN A À L'INcIENNE L'ANCIENNEPheasant Truss aa pheasant pheasant with with the the legs legs pressed pressed against against the the breast. breast. PotPotTruss butter, keeping keeping the the meat meat slightly pinkish pinkish in in colour. col our. roast in butter, off the breasts. breasts. Separate Separate the the mignon mignon fillets fil lets (underpart (underpart of of Cut offthe breast meat) meat) from the supr4mes. suprêmes. Cut Cut each suprdme suprême in in 33 thin thin breast aiguillettes (q.v.). aiguillettes with pheasant pheasant Spread one side of these aiguillettes thickly with somefoie pur6e purée made made from the legs and sorne foie gras gras (q.v.)'ble1.ded (q.v.), blended little with aa little little concentrated game stock, flavoured with with a little added. cream added. of whipped cream liqueur brandy, with it its weight of of pheasant' aiguilleltes ofpheasant. of the aiguillettes pur6e slightly on top of Dome the puréeslightly game on game based on sauce based Cover them with with White White chaud-froid sauce Cover them stock (see SAUCE). SAUCE). jelly on Glaze each. Glaze top of of each. on top Put aa strip of truffie trufle dipped in jelly aspic an aspic stock'1. Line an Game jelly with game jelly (see JELLY, JELLY, Game ielly stock).

pheasant Chaud-fro(d Chaud-froid ofofpheasant (FrenchGovernment Ofice) TouristOffice) GovernmentTourisl (French

689 689

PHOSPHORUS

PHOSPHORUS

preparethe FATSAN _Prepare pheasantasas thepheasant indicatedfor forDaube Daubeofofpheasant pheasantinjelly. in jelty. indicated Drain,untruss untrussand andrem remove barding.Dry Dryweil wellinina aclotho cloth. Drain, ove barding. justlarge Putit itinina atin tinjust largeenough enoughtototake takeit itwho whole. Coverwith with Put le. Coyer jellymade clearjelly madefrom fromthe thecooking cookingstock stockand andclarified (see clarified(see clear ASPIC,Clarification Clarificationofofaspic jeily),flavoured aspicjelly), flavouredwith withMadeira Madiira ASPIC, someother otherheavy heavywine. wine.Solder Solderthe thetin. tin.Mark Markthe the\idlidwith witha a ororsome touchofofsolder. solder.Put Putititinina apan panwith withenough enoughwater watertotocoyer. cover. touch Boilsteadily steadilyfor for1ilf,hours. hours.Take Takethe tinout thetin outofofthe thepan panand put andpu Boil t upsidedown downon ona atable tabresosothat thatthe thebreast breastofofthe pheasantisis thepheasant ititupside glazed with jelly. Leave to get cold. glazed with jelly. Leave to get cold. PheasantPrince PrinceOrloff jelly.FAJSAN pRrNcEORLOFF Orloffininjelly. rlrslNPRJNCE oRrorrÀALA ra Pheasant cr1$ Boneaapheasant, pheasant, leaving leavingthe bonesininthe thebones thewing wingtips tips GELÉE - - Bone andlower lowerpart partof ofthe theleg. leg.Season Seasonthe thebird birdinside, inside,and anOstufT stuff and withaa forcemeat forcemeatmade made ofof the theboned boned meat meat ofofanother another with pheasant, trimmed and andminced, minced, with withan anequal equalquantity quantity of of pheasant, trimmed choppedpork porkfat fatand andi f its itsvolume volume of ofcooked cooked-foie gras chopped foiegras coarsely diced, diced,and anddiced dicedtruffies. truffles.Season Seasonthe themixture mixturiweil welland and coarsely flavour with with 11tablespoon tablespoon brandy. brandy. flavour Fold the pheasant pheasant into into shape shape and andsew sew itit up. up. Baste Baste with with Fold the melted butter. butter. Wrap put the Wrap inin aacloth cloth and and tie tie with withstring. sirine.Put the melted pheasant inin aa braising braising pan pan lined lined with with fresh fresh pork porliskin and pheasant skin and sliced carrots carrots and and on onions tossed in in butter. butter. Moisten Moiiten with withgame same sliced ions tossed stock,, made made separately separately from from the the bones bones and and trimmings trimming. of of the tn. stock, pheasants. Coyer, two pheasants. Cover, and and cook cook slowly slowly for for 15 l5 minutes. minutis. two Drain the pheasant. Unwrap the pheasant. Unwrap it, it, then then wrap wrap itit again again after after Drain washing the the cloth cloth in in hot hot water water and and wringing wringingit out-. Tie Tie and and washing it out. leave until quite cold, cold, unwrap unwrap itit and and dry dry itit weil well in in aa cloth. cloth. leave until itit isis quite completely with with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (see sauce (see Coat it completely 9:lt _tl SAUCE) made made with with the the cooking cooking stock. stock. Decorate Decorate the the breast breast SAUCE) of the the bird bird with with truffies, truffles, and and the the whites whites ofhard-boiled of hard-boiled egg egg and and of jelly flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Serve Serve on on aa slice slice of of sandwich sandwich jelly flavoured bread, cut cut to to the the size size of pheasant and spread of the the pheasant spread with with melted melted bread, butter. Surround with with 88 trufftes, truffles, cooked cooked in in Madeira, butter. Surround scooped out out and and filled filled with with Foie gras purée purde (see (see PURÉE). PUREE). scooped Foie gras Separate the the truffies truffies with jelly, and chopped jel!y, Separate with 1I tablespoon chopped make ofjelly cut into into triangles. make aa border border of jelly cut triangles. Pheasant or ài I'alsacienne. re Pheasant with with sauerkraut sauerkraut or l'alsacienne. rels,lN FAISAN A À LA cHoucRourE, CHOUCROUTE, e À L'ALSAcTENNE L'ALSACIENNE - Truss the pheasant pheasant with the legs tightly legs .pressed pressed tightly against against the the breast. breast. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, kge.nine keeping thethe meat meat pinkish pinkish inside. inside. put Put in in a a braising pan pan in which which sauerkraut sauerkraut has has been been cooked, cooked, flavoured flavoured with E-ssince Essence of game game (see (see ESSENCE) ESSENCE) and and goose goose fat. Garnish Garnish with fat bacon bacon and and saveloy. saveloy. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Put Put the the pheasant pheasant on on aa bed bed of ofsauerkraut, sauerkraut, surround surround with with the the saveloy saveloy and and the the fat fat bacon bacon cut cut in in rectangles. rectangles. PHOSPHORUS. phosphorus is aa chemical PHOSPHORUS. puospHoRE PHOSPHORE -- Phosphorus is chemical element element which which isis aa constituent constituent of ofanimai animal tissues, tissues, includine including the the brain, brain, and and forms forms aa major major part part of of bone bone material. material. In In c-omcombination bination with withalbumen albumen (nuclein) (nuclein) or orthe the fats fats (lecithin), (lecithin), itit enters enters into into the the composition composition of of the the muscles, muscles, the the glandj glands and and the the nerve nervetissues. tissues. The The food food we we eat eat contains con tains too too great great aa proportion proportion of of phosphorus phosphorus substances, substances, much much of of which which isis eliminated. eliminated. The The substance substance which which isis easiest easiest to to assimilate assimilate isis vegetable vegetable phos_ phosphorus phorusmatter. matter. AUFOIE ForEGRAS cnesÀ ALAraGELÉE cetErFAISAN AU

Pheasant p6t6 ( Debillot. phot. Larousse\ Pheasant pâté (Debillol. Phal. Larousse)

Pheasant Ioaf i I'ancienne See LOAyES, lhinged game Pheasant loaf à l'ancienne -- See LOA VES, Winged f!ame loaf. loa! Pheasant p0t6. pArf DE FATsAN Bone a large pheasant. Cut Pheasant pâté.breasts PÂTÉ DE FAISAN -- Bone a large pheasant. Cut the wings and into thin slices, and Jteep in brandy. the wings and breasts into prepare thin slices, and steep in brandy. With the rest of the meat a stuffing, flavour with a With the rest and of the meat prepare stuffing, flavour with a little brandy bind with an egg.aLine an oval pdti moild, little and egg. Line an oval pâté mould with brandy a hinged lid bind with with Fine an lining paste (see DOI;GU;, and with a hinged !id with Fine lining paste (see DOUGH), and cover with thin slices of pork fat. coyer thinofs!ices of pork Putwith a layer stuffing at thefat. bottom of the mould. On this Put a layer at the bottom of the mould. On this arrange slices of of stuffing breast alternating with thin slices of foie gras arrange slices of breast alternating with thin slices of foie gras and quartered truffles. Cover these with a layer of stuifing"and and quartered truffies. Coyer these with layer ofstuffing and continue to filI the mould in this way toawiitrin (f inch) cm. continue fil! the with mould in this way to within ~I cm. (i inch) of the rim,toending a layer of stuffing. On top of tfris tasi of the put rim,j ending layer of stuffing. On top of this last layer, bay leaf.with Folda the overlapping ends of the pork fat layer, putCover t bay the leaf. Fold the overlapping ends of the pork fat inward. pdtd with an ovallayei of rolled-oui pastry Cover the pâté with an rolled-out pastry inward. pink theofedges and press down at the edges.ovallayer with purtry at the edges. Pink the edges with pastry and press downa coxcomb pincers to form design. Make a hole in the middle to form a coxcomb design. Make a hole in the middle pincers of the pAtd for the escape of steam. Decorate the top with of the motifs. pâté forBrush the escape of steam. Decorate the top with pastry the top of thepri td withegg and bake in a pastry motifs. top of the pâté with egg and bake in a moderate ovenBrush for lf,the hours, or longer if tne is moderate 1t hours, or longer if the [Aa pâté is large. large. Leave tooven cool for without turning out. When it is cold, four in Leave to cool without turning out. When it is cold, pour in half-set jelly (see JELLY , Game jelly stock). half-set jellypdtds (see JELL Y, Game jelly stock). Pheasant (like cold pdtds) must be prepared . Pheasant pâtés (like all ail cold pâtés) must be prepared at at least24 hours before using. least 24 hours before using. In addition to those listed above, other ingredients may be In addition those listed ab ove, other ingredients may be used, such astothin slices of lean cooked hum o. picttea used, such thin slices of lean cooked ham or pickled tongue, thin as slices offresh pork fat, etc. tongue, thinway slices of fresh pork fat, etc. Anot^he1 preparing of pdt6 is to dice coarsely the .. Another way of preparing the the is to dice coarsely the slices of pheasant and other whore pâté ingredients and mix ihem slices of pheasant and other whole ingredients and mix them with the stuffing. with the stuffing. Potted pheasant. TERRTNE DE FATsAN Made with the same Potted pheasant. TERRINE DE FAISAN-- Made with the same ingredients as those indicated for pheasant patd:thin slices of ingredients as those indicated for Pheasant pâté: thin slices of br:l* of pheasant,foie gras,truffies, game stuffing. breast pheasant,foie gras, truffies, game stuffing. Fill aofbowl lined with thin slices of pork fat and the FiJI a bowl lined with thin slices of pork fat and the ingredients in alternate layers. On top oi the last layer of ingredients layers. On top of the last layer of stuffing put a in thinalternate slice of pork fat. Cover the bowl, sealing the stuffing put a thin slice ofpork fat. Cover the bowl, sealing the edges with flour-and-water paste. Stand in water and cook in edges with paste. Stand in water and cook in the oven forflour-and-water I to lf, hours, according to the size the oyen for 1 to to 1~ hours, according to the sizeofthe of thebowl. bowl. Leave the mixture cool under a light weight. Leave mixture to cool under a light weight. Turn the it out next day. Dry it with a cloth. iine Turnofit lard out next day. Dry it with a clotho Linethe thebowl bowlwith with a layer ttrict, and leave to set. put the i ~r-. ii(iinch; a layer of lard cm. inch) thick, and leave to set. the mixture on top. Pour on cool lard to cover and seal thePut edses mixture with lard. on top. Pour on cool lard to coyer and seal the edges with lard. Thus encased in fat, the potted pheasant will keep for Thusdays. encased the potted pheasant will keep for several If it isintofat, be eaten at once, concentrated game If itinstead is to be eaten at once, concentrated game several jelly may days. be used of lard. jel!y may bepheasant used in ste ad of lard. Preserved with foie gras and jelly. coNsrRvE Preserved pheasant with foie gras and jelly. CONSERVEDEDE 690 690

PHYSALIS PHYSALIS PERUVIANA PERUVIANA -- Botanical Botanical name name for for Cape Cape

gooseberry. Seealso alsoSTRAWBERRY STRAWBERRYTOMATO. TOMATO. gooseberry.See

PICARDAN PICARDAN-- Variety Varietyof ofLanguedoc Languedocvine vineplant, plant,producing producing Muscat Muscatwines. win es.

PICARDY. PICARDY.prcARDrE PICARDIE-- This Thisregion regionofofFrance, France,according accordingtoto some someauthorities, authorities,isisthe theleast leastfavoured favouredfrom fromthe thegastronomi_ gastronomical view. calpoint pointofofview. Leek Leekflan, flan,ororflamique, flamique,enjoys enjoysgreat greatpopularity popularityininpicardy Picardy and andininthe theChampagne Champagneregion, region,though thoughititisisnot notaadish dishoiof

transcendent transcendentquality. quality.

PIE

PIE

'.r-.tl-@ a'

,! r'. tt.' E

1L.:=.^t-E'i't?"'J Pistries-fiShorrbrgpds .

'r,rYW,n"u,ri Chicken liver omelette.

chestnuts. PumPkin Coghuse. APPIe

tatt

DE

E:

FRANCE

PicardY Gastronomic Gas[ronomie map map of of Plcardy

PICKLED. PICKLED. r, À l'6c.nrnrn L'ÉCARLATE

There There are are many many other other culinary culinary specialities specialities in in the the Picardy Picardy region, regiol1, for for example, example, the the duckpdlds duck pâtés of of Amiens Amiens and and Abbeville' Abbeville.

the The

or - Pork Pork or

beef are pickled by

beef are pickled by

added, and then boiled' steeping steeping in in brine brine with with saltpetre saJtpetre added, and then boiled.

to the brine causes the meat to The The addition addition of of saltpetre salt petre to the brine causes the meat to as pork or beef d l'dcarlate France in known is red and turn turn red and is known in France as pork or beer à /'écarlale (scarlet meat). (scarlet meat). and various vegetables PICKLES PICKLES -- Gherkins, Gherkins. cucumbers cucumbers and various vegetables This product is found in the pickled and spices. spices. This product is found in the pickled in in vinegar vinegar and in the home. often bottled and is ihops shops ready ready for for use, use, and is often bottled in the home. Meal taken in the open, or a meal to PICNIC. PICNIC. IIQUE-NIQUE PIQUE-N1QUE - Meal taken in the open, or a meal to dish. contributes aa dish. which whieh each each participant participant contributes

market market gardens of of the the region regioo produce produce very very good good

which are vegetables, vegetables, most most of ofwhich are exported exported to to England. England. Cattle Cattle raised raised for for food food in the the Picardy Picardy pastures pastures produce produce meat meat of of the first tirst quality. quality. The The Baie-de-Somme Baie-de-Somme salt salt meadow meadow sheep sheep

are are famous. famous. Picardy Picardy pork pork is is excellent excellent and and is is made made into into charcuterie. charcuterie.

stretch very of Picardy does Although Altbough the coast coast of does not not stretch very far, far, sea sea

great abundance. abundance. Cockles, fish and shellfish sbellfish are are found found in in great Cockles, fish and prodigious hdnons locally, called hénons which are found found in in prodigious which are are called locally, are

fish is Excellent fish quantities in the Baie de la Somme. Excellent is found found in in the River Somme. teal duck, teal wild duck, passage: wild birds of of passage: in birds This region abounds in Tbis geese' wild geese. or wild bustards, or garganey, and sometimes bustards, and sometimes and garganey, and great numbers. numbers' in great Thrushes, too, are found in Picardy in Thrusbes, Maroilles, of Maroilles, those of Picardy: those in Picardy: cheeses are made in Excellent cheeses well are weil Mouchelet are of Mouchelet those of and those Marolles, and called Marolles, usually called usually known. popular. is also also popular. beer is drink, but beer the local drink, Cider is the Cider various andouillef/es, Andouilles, andouille specialities -- Andouilles, Culinary specialities Culioary Iles, various etc. ham, etc. smoked ham, sausages, black black puddings, smoked small sausages, small pot-au-feu ordinary pot-au:feu an ordinary as an made as which isis made soup, which Tripe soup, Tripe spleen, heart, spleen, liver, heart, parings ,muzzle,ears' and parings, ohal and usingpork pork olfal muzzle, ears, liver, using orsoup; flamiques leek soup; soup; leek legs soup; pumpkin .lOUp; soup; Jrogs' etc.;; pumpkin flamiques or etc. frogt' legs and leeks, on onions of leeks, made of flan made country flan kind of of country flamiches, ions and flamichei, aa kind pdti ; duck pâté; Abbeville duck and Abbeville pdtds; Amiens Amiens and fishpâtés; various fish marrows ;various marrows; pi9 ' potg(o pie. p otato flan, pork ; pOlalO piece of braised pork; of braised fresh piece caqhuse, aa fresh flan, po/ato caqhuse, Picardy of Picard specialities of confectionery specialities and confectionery sweet and Among the the sweet Among y of kind of vitalons, aa kind shortbreads; vilalons, Pbronne shortbreads; tart; Péronne appli tart; are app/e are arompoached in in sweetened, sweetened, aromand poached quenelle made of balter batter and made of quenelle pommes, aux pommes, taliburs aux plum lart, tart, taliburs gdteau bal/U; battu; plum milk; gâteau atised milk; atised buttered of butlered made of bissale, made douillon; bissale, Normandy douillon; similar toto Normandy similar Ham macmacand Ham Abbeville and Amiens, Abbeville theAmiens, and the dough; and bread dougb; bread aroons and and biscuits. biscuits. aroons

See CHEESE. DIEULEFIT -- See PICODON PICODON DE DE DIEULEFIT CHEESE. Variety of vine plant PICPOUILLE or PICQUEPOUL PICQUEPOUL or PICPOUILLE ..- Variety of vine plant is distilled. Armagnac is which Armagnac grown in from which in Gers, Gers, from grown distil1ed.

name in France for an Common name PIED-DE-MOUTON - Common PIED-DE-MOUTON in France for an fungus. edible excellent excellent edible fungus. pArf - Dish consisting of a pastry crust with various PIE. PÂTÉ PIE. - Dish consisting of a pastry crust with various filling. kinds of of filliog. kinds given below are for rich pies (pdtds) recipes given the recipes of the Some of below are for rich pies (pâtés) Sorne pie dishes. General instructions than pie rather in moulds made made in moulds rather than dishes. General instructions as follows: are for doing this for doing this are as follows: mould, round, oval or hinged a Choose a hinged mould, mould. Choose the moult!. Lining the round, oval or Lining nature of the pie in question, the on depending rectangular, rectangular, depending on the nature of the pie in question, carefully. butter itit carefully. and butter and pastry (prepared in advance and ofthe pastry Take three-quarters three-quarters orthe Take (prepared in advance and roll out, out, and fold in the shape of ball, roll into aa bail, Rott into rested). Roll well rested). well and rold in the shape of this calotte, unfold and out this Roll out (flattened dome). dome). Roll calotte (flattened aa ca/Olle ca/Olle, unfold and process, rolling it in the opposite direction to same repeat the repeat the same process, rolling it in the opposite direction to calotte of pastry the Unfold inch). cm. of ihicktress a I cm. (i-$ inch). Unfold the ca/Olle of paslry a thickness of 1 the Press sheet. baking placed a metal on put inaamould mould placed on a metal baking sheet. Press the and put itit in and the sides of the tin, taking care to see that pastiy down round the down round pastry sides of the tin, taking care to see that way to the bottom and rises about 2 theway piessed all evenly it is il is pressed evenly ail the to the bottom and rises about2 of the tin, to form a rim which will edge the inch) above cm. cm. (lt* inch) above the edge of the tin, to form a rim which will pastry lid. a with sealed with a pastry lid. later be besealed later and the walls of the pie with bottom and pie.LiLine thebottom the pie. Filting Ihe ne the the walls of the pie with Fi/ling

fish, Mediterraneanfish, for sm small name for French name PICAREL -- French PICAREL aIl Mediterranean prepared like like anchovy. anchovy. whichisisprepared which

ofbacon. rashersof very thin thinrashers bacon. very prescribed forcemeat over the bacon' ofthe theprescribed layer of Putaathin thin layer Put forcemeat overtbe bacon. to ensure that it is even all over. Fill the carefully, this Smooth this carefully.to Smooth ensure that it is even ail over. Filithe veal browned in butter, diced or sliced piewith ofveal slices of with thin thinslices pie browned in butter, diced or sliced prepared in the same pork prepared freshpork game meat, poultry or poultry or game meat, fresh in the same as the veal, ham, etc. Alternate with bacon cut in thin manner manner as the veal, ham, etc. Alternate with bacon eut in thio peeled and steeped in brandy with spiced or truffies slivers, slivers, or truffies peeled and steeped in brandy with spiced pieces. intopieces. andcut cutinto saltand salt put into the pie in layers sealed downshould This filling This filling should bebeput into the pie in layers seaJed downof with a small quantity of the forcemeat. Cover the last layer with a small quantity orthe rorcemeat. Coyer the last layer of rasher of bacon' thinrasher witha athin forcemeat with forcemeat of bacon.

Normandy. nameininNormandy. this name bythis called by The turkey turkey isiscalled PICAUT PICA UT ---The chopped ofchopped Indian,of Eastlndian, pickle,originally originallyEast PICCALILLI - -AApickle, PICCALILLI productisis Thisproduet spices.This andspiees. mustard and vinegar, mustard vegetables ininvinegar, vegetables foruse. use. readyfor foundininthe theshops shopsready found olives' greentable tableolives. biggreen forbig namefor Frenchname PICHOLINE -French PICHOLlNEprepared inin pike.ltItcan beprcpared canbe Youngpike. BRocHEroN - -Young PICKEREL.BROCHETON PICKEREL. used andisisused (seePIKE), PIKE),and pike(see givenfor largepike forlarge manner given anymanner any stews. fishstews. (q.v')and freshwaterfish andfreshwater formaIe/oies matelotes(q.v.) mainlyfor mainly 691 691

PIE PIE pastry.Roll thepaslry. Rollthe theremainder remainderofofthe the pastryinto into ryahngthe a piece ofthe thesasame diameterasasthe theopening openingofof ihemould. mould. me diameter Moistenthe theedges edgesof ofthe therim rimwith withwater, water, putthe therolled-out rolled-out pastrylid lidonontop topand andseal sealthe theedges. edges, pressinglightly. lightly.CrilUp Crimp the edgeswith witha a pastrycrÎmper. crimper. Decoratethe thetop top withpieces piecesof ofdough doughcut cutininfancy fancyshapes, shapes, Decorate andbrush brushwith withbeaten beatenegg. egg.Make Makeaahole holeininthe themiddle. middie.Butter Bulter and pieceof ofthin thincardboard, cardboard, roll rollititinto intoa atube tubeand placeininthe andplace the aapiecc (This chimney hole.(This chimneyprovides providesan anoutlet outletfor forsteam steamduring durine hole. cooking.) Brush Brush the thetop topwilh withbeaten beatenegg eggonce onceagain. again. cooking.) pie. Sake the pie. Bake the thepie pieininaahot hot oven, oven,allowing allowing Baking Ihe -35_Baking 40_minutes (18toio20 20minutes minutes perlb.). lb.).When Whei 35 toto40 minutes per kg.(18 cooked, pouraa few tablespoons leave until completely cold. cold.Pour eookcd,lcave ofmelted melted butter butter or orwarm warm lard through through the the.chimney' of 'chimney' toto fill up up gaps in anygaps inthe the forcemeaL forcemeat. IfIf the pie isisintended thepie intended for for immedîate immediate any consumption, pour pour into into ilitsorne somemcat, meat, chicken chicken or orsemi-liquid semi_liquid Consumption, game jelly, depending depending on on the the nature natureof pie. of the the pie. gamejelly, Do not not tum jely are turn out out until until the the butter butter or or the the jelly arecold, cold, and and Do solidified. Keep Keep inin aa cool place until cool place until rcady ready to to sufficienlly solidined. :;$:]".Ur serve. The above above method method of of preparation for for meat, poultry or meat, poultry or The game pies pies isis also also applicable applicable 10 to fish or or she\\fish shellfish pies. pies. game

FISH AND AND SHELLFISH pAr6s DE porssoNs. SHELLFISH PIES. PIES. PÂTÉS oe POISSONS, FISH

cnusrncfs CRUSTACÉS

-

DE DB

pArE p'lr.rcutI-t,n Eel pie. PÂTÉ Cut boned boned eel eel nllets fillets tnto into thin thin Eel D'ANGUILLE -- Cut slices about (Z1inches) cm. (2i long. Stud Stud them them with with Irumes truffies or or slices 66cm. inches) long. desalted anchovy anchovy flllets. fillets. Marinale Marinate for for 22 hours hours În in white white wine. wine. desalted brandy, oil, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and dried dried .fines (chopped herbe.s (chopped brandy, ail, fines herbes parsley, tarragon and and chives). chives). pars!cy,

Fry the the fillets briskly briskly in in butter butter and and sprinkle with with chopped Fry shallots. Line Line aa mould mould wîth pastry dough and with pastry and line the the iides shal1ots. pike and the bottom bottom with with aa layer layer of of Pike Jorcemeat fish and the forcemeat or other nsh forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed with with diced truffles. forcemeat (see Fill the pie with with the the eel, eel, alternating with with layers layers of of pike the pie - Fil! forcemeat, and pour the top. forcemeat, and pour the the marinating marinating liquor over olier the Cover another layer of forcemeit, sprinkle with melted Cover with witb anolher layer of forcemeat, sprinkle butter, and and put put on on a a pastry lid. lid. Decorate Decorate the top of the pie with pieces of of pastry pastry cut cul in in fancy shapes. shapes. Make Make a hote hole in ihe the middle to to allow al\ow steam steam to ta escape. Bake in Bake in aa moderate moderate oven oven for lt Il to to 22 hours, depending on the-size the size of of the the pie. Pour Pour in in aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Dimi-glaie Demi-glace or Velouti VeloUlè souce, sauce, based on on fish fish stock stock (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) through through the the opening in in the the top. top. Diced mushrooms mushrooms tossed tossed in in butter butter and and sprinkled sprinklcd with with choppdfines choppedfines herbes herbes (q.v.) (q.v.) can can be be put pul into into the the fbrcemeat. forcemeat. Eel pie pie can can be he garnished garnishcd inside inside with wilh shelled shelled crayfish crayfish tails, tails, in in -Eel which whieh case case Crayfish Croyfish sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) is is pouied poured in in at at ihe the end. pie The can end. The pie can also also be be filled simply simply with with the the fish, fish, each each layer layer of of the the eel cel slices slices being being covered covered with with aa layer layer of of truffle truffie slivers. slivers. Eel Eel pie to to be be served served cold cold isis prepared prepared in in the the same same manner. manner. Wlenit fish aspic When isiscold, cold, pour pouraa few few tablespoons tablespoons of offish aspicjelly jelly (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Aspic Aspicoffish) oJfish)made madefrom from the the bones bonesand and parings paringsbf eel into into it, il. or, or, ifif the the pie pÎe has has to to be be kept kept for for some sorne time, time, aa few few tablespoons ta blcspoonsof ofmelted, meltcd,almost al mostcold co!d butter. butter. Lamprey Lamprey pie ià la la bordelaise. bordelaise. pArE PÂTÉ on DE rltrrpnon LAMPROIE A À re LA BoRDELATSE - Prepare as Eel pie using fillets of lamprey and BORDELA1SE as Eel pie using fillets of lamprey and Fish Fishforcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed mixed with withlhopped chopped parsley leeks, siiced parsleyand andchives. chives.Put Putaalayer layerofofthe thewhite whitepart partofofleeks, sliced and and lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and aa layei layer of oftruffie tfuffie slivers, slillers, between each between eachlayer ofoflamprey lam preyfillets. fiIIets. Salmon Salmon pie. rArr DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- Line Line aa mould mould with with Fine Fine lining paste(see DOUGH). DOUGH).Prepare Prepareas asEel Eelpie,using pie, usingslices slicesof of liningpaste salmon, salmon,Pike forcemeat (see (secFORCEMEATS;, FORCEMEATS),truffies, truffies,and and garnishes. other other ga!'n1:;hes. Salmonpie pieenenpantin. pAre DE sAUMoN EN prc,NTrN - prepare lalmon with withslices slicesofofsalmon, Pikeforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS).

truffles, truffles,and andother garnishes,arranged othergarnishes, arranged ininlayers layerson ona asheet sheetof of Fine FineIining paste(see (seeDOUGH) liningpasle DOUGH) rolled rolledout intoananaval outinto ovalshape. shape. Cover Coverwith with pastry,seal sealand and crimpthe the edges.Decorate Decoratethe lhe top topwith withpieces pieces of pastry cut in fancy shapes.Brush Brushwith with beaten a steam to beatenegg, egg,make make a hole in the middle to allow steam to escape, escape,and andbake bakeininaaslow slowoven. oven. This Thispie piecan canbe bemade madeofofBrioche Briochedough (seeDOUGH). dough(see DOUGH).ItIt ean canalso alsobe bemade madeasasaaturnover. turnover. pArnDESAUMON '1 shall Salmon pieàilalarusse russel.I.PÂTÉ or sauuoN ÀeLA LARUSSERUssE -.I shall give yOIl give you thedetails details of ofthîs thishot pieasas1Ihave hotpie havescen seenititmade madeinin1 he the house house of ofthe theRussian Russian Ambassador Ambassador (Prince (prince Kurakin), Kurakin), by byhis his Russian Russian cook,' cook,' writes writesCarême. Car€me. 'Having cutaasmall 'Havingcut smallfillet filletofsalmoo of salmoninto intosliees. slices. season season with with fines herbes (q.v.), (q.v.), salt salt salt, salt, pepper pepperand fines-herbes and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. cut inin slices, in Dredge aasmall small Strasbourgfoie Strasbourg/oie gras, gras,cut inthe thesame sanie ..... "."vu, ... " and boiled eggyolks. he seasoning and herbs. herbs. Chop Chop 12 l2hardhard-boiled yolks.Line Line1the pie mould as pie as llsual usual for for aa hot pie, garnish the hot pie, ihe sides sidesand and bottom bottom with with rice rice cooked good chicken stock cooked in in good (the rice, stock (the rice, as as weil well as put inin aalayer as the the rest rest of garnish, should of the the garnîsb, should he be cold). cold). Put layer of of salmon sliees salmon slices, slices,sprinkle sprinkle wilh with ehopped chopped yolks, yolks, cover cover with withilices o!foie gras, gras,and and follow follow up up with with aasprinkling sprinkling of yolks. Repeat the process again again with with the the same same filling filling of of salmon and.'foie gras. Pour over gras. in over butter butter flavoured flavoured wilhfines withfines herbes herbesinwhich the foie gras and and the the salmon salmon have have been been tossed. foie gros toised. Caver Cover the the rest rest with with aa layer layer ofnce of rice and and finish finish making making the pie as the pie as usual. usual. Sake Bake itit for for If l| hours hours and and serve serye at at once. once. 'The 'The Russian Russian cook put no cook put no sauce sauce in, in, but good conbut aa good concentrated centrated Espagnole sauce (see SAUCE) sauce (see give more SAUCE) will will give more taste taste and and will render Ihis this strange ragofit more (Traiti des more dclicate.' delicate.' (Trailé des en/rées entries chaudes de pdtisseries, by Carême.) Car6me.) Salmon pie ài la russe russe II II -- See See COULIBIAC. pArn DE Sole pie. pie in pie. PÂTE os SOLES soI,Es -- Prepare Prepare as as Eel Eel pie in an an oval oval or or mould, lined lined Wilh paste (see rectangular mould, with Fine (see Fine lining lining paste of sole, Fish forcemeat (see DOUGH), using fillets fillets of sole, Fish forcimeat (see truffie and other.gamish. FORCEMEATS), truffie other.garnish. This pie can be made by filling it it with wîth rolled rolled fillets fillets of of sole, sole, stulTed with truffied truffied fish forcemeat. forcen:eat. stuffed sbelJfish pie. nArn PÂTÉ DE DE LANC,ousrE LANGOUSTESpiny lobster and other shellfish as Eel Eel pie pÎe replacing the the eel eel by by sliees of the the shellfish. shellfish . Prepare as slices of • v ............. ,. . used used for this this pie should should have have some sorne compound compound The forcemeat butter, flavoured and and coloured coloured with with the the appropriate appropriate sh;[fish, shellfish, butter, added to to itit (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). added Tnrbol pie. pie. rArf PÂTÉ DE DE TURBoT TURBOT - prepare as Eel Eelpie, pie, in in an an oval oval Turbot - Prepare as or rectangular reclangular mould, mould, replacing replacing the the eel eel by by fillets fi!lets of ofturbol. or turbot. Proceeding as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Eel Eel pie pie and and other other Proceeding can be be made made of of all ail kinds kinds of of fish, fish, such such as as brill, brill, recipes, pies can pike, cod, carp, sturgeon, slurgeon, eel-pout, eel-pout. whiting, whiting, grayling, grayling, salmon, salmon, trout, etc. etc. trout. AlI these these pies pies can can be be served served cold. cold. All GAM EPIES. PIES. pArfs PÂTÉS DE DE crBrER. OlDIER. GAME PÂTtDE DE ITERLES MERLES - prepare described in in the the Blackbird pie. rArf - Prepare asas described below. recipe for Thrush pre below. DE utvns UÈVRE - prepare as Rabbit Rabbi! pie below, Hare pie. pArf oB - Prepare as using sliced sliced hare l'lare meat, meal, Game Game forcemeat Jorcemeal (see (see FORCEusing MEATS)and andtruffles. truffles. MEATS) Lark pie I.l.pArf PÂTÉDE DE MAUvrETrns MAUVIETTES - Using boned larks,foie Lark boned - Using gr?s gras or ord gratin forcemeat and and truffies, tru ffies ,prepare prepareas as euail pie. Larkpie II ororDijon Dijonroussotte. roussotte.pAr6 PÂTÉo'arouETTEs. D'ALOUETTES,DrJoNNArs DIJONNATS Lark ROUSSOTTE - For take l818larks, 350g.g.(12 (12oz.) oz.)fresh fresh Rous$TTE larks, 350 - For66persons take porkfillet, pork fillet, 100g. J 00 g.(a oz.)fatpork, fat pork, 100 100g.(4o2.)cookedham. (4 oz.) cookcd harn. Bonethe thelaiks, larks,leaving only onlythe theleg bones (keeping all ailthe the Bone trail)and andmarinate marina tethem themfor 22days da ysininbrandy, Mideira, salt, salt, trail) pepper pepperand andspices. spices. Cutthe thepork porkfillet fHletand andfat fatpork porkinto intolarge largedice diceand andbrown brown Cut lightlyover overaahigh highflame. ftame.Leave Leaveuntil untî!quite cold, cold,then thenpound pound lightly a mortar, incorporating incorporatingthe thecookid ham, ham, 55 or or66 good good inin a_mortar, trufflesand andthe thelarks' larks'trail, Irail,lightly lightlyfried friedininbutter. butter.Taste, Taste,add add truffles

692 692

PIE PIE the the sides sides and and bottom bottom with with aa layer layer of ofdAgratin gratingameforcemeat gameforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), mixed mixed with with the the livers livers and and the the trail trail of of the the birds, birds, rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. Put Put into into the the pie pie the the breasts breasts of of 22 woodcocks, woodcocks, roasted roasted and and kept kept very very underdone. underdone. Bone Bone the the legs, legs, pound pound the the flesh /lesh in in aa mortar mortar and and add add to to the theforcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Coyerthe thebreasts breastswith with thick thick slices truffies lightly sliees of oftruffies lightly tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and over over these these spread spread aa layer forcemeat. Cover layer of offorcemeat. Coyerthe thepie piewith with pastry pastry and and bake bake in in the the oven oyen for for about about I1hour. hour. This This pie pie can can also aJso be be made made of ofboned boned woodcock woodcock stuffed stuffed with with foie gras gras and and truffles. truflles. foie pAr6 Pies Pies of of wood-pigeon, wood-pigeon, partridge parlridge and and other olhcr game. game. PÂTÉ ou DE IALoMBE, PALOMBE, nERDREAU PERDREAU -- Using Using the the meat meat of of the the game game chosen, chosen, prepare prepare as as pheasant phcasant or or woodcock woodcock pie. pie.

seasoning necessary, and seasoning ififnecessary, and rub rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Reshape Reshape the the larks, larks, stuffing stuffing with with aa little little of ofthis this forcemeat, forcemeat, aa piece piece of oftruflle and aa piece piece of offoie gras. truffie and foie gras. Line Line aa mould mould with with Fine Fine lining liningpaste pas te (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Cover Cover with very very thin thin rashers rasbers of ofbacon, bacon, spread spread aa little litt le forcemeat forcemeat on on with the bottom bottom and and put put in in the the larks, larks, placing placing them them in in rows rows and and the interspersing each each row row with with aa thin thin layer layer of offorcemeat. forcemeat. Put Put on on interspersing pastry lid lid (without (without making making any any hole hole in in the the centre, centre, as as for for aa pastry other pies). pies). Scatter Scatter 22 or or 33pieces pieces offresh of frcsh butter butter on on the the top top and and other bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen for for about about ltli hours. hours. Turn Turn out out and and serve serve as as bake is. itit is. The The pie pie can can be be served served cold. cold. In Jn this this case, case, alternate alternate the the larks larks with good good pieces pieces of of truffied/oie truflled foie gras. gras. When When the the pie pie is is cold, col d, with jelly (see pour pour in in some sorne game game aspic aspicjelly (see JELLY JELL Y,, Game Gamejelly stock). ielly stock)The The larks larks can can be be replaced replaced by by thrushes, thrushes, quails, quails, etc. etc. This This pie pie is also also known known as as Pdtd Pâté Racouchot. Racouchot. is jointed roast Pheasant pie. pie. rArr PÂTÉ DE DE FAIsAN FAISAN -- Prepare, Prepare, using usingjointed roast Pheasant pheasant, pheasant, kept kept very very underdone, underdone, as as described described in in the the recipe reeipe for for Woodcock pie. pie. Woodcock Quai! pie pie with with trufles. tTumes. pArf PÂTÉ DE DE cAILLEs CAILLES AUx AUX rRuFFEs TRUFFES - Line Line Quail aa low low round round mould mould with with Fine Fine lining lining paste paste (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and the sides and the the bottom bottom with with .,4 A gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat (see (see coat the FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Stuffthe Stuffthe quails withfoie withfoie gra.s gras and and truffies, truflles, roll into into little lillie ballottines ballottines and half-cook half-cook in Madeira-flavoured Madeira-/lavoured braising stock. Arrange Arrange the the quails in a circle. Fill Fill the middle middle braising of the mould mould with truffies truflles lightly \ightly tossed in butter. butter. Cover Coyer with with of \id and finish making making the pie in in the usual manner' manner. a pastry lid Bake in a moderate moderate oven oyen for ror about I1 hour. Bake a few tablespoons lablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace Before serving, pour in a it the liquor sauce sauce (see SAUCE) having having added to il \iquor left left from from quails. braising the quails. braising mou Ids ; it it is This type of pie is usually made in shallow moulds; really a a croustade (q.v.) more more than than a a pie pie and and is is usually really croustade (q.v.) described croustade of of quails. quai/s. described on the menus as uoustade TRUFFES Rabbi! pie with truffes. truffles. pArf PÂTÉ pt DE LAPEREAU AUx AUX TRUfFES Rabbit in Sliee rabbits and brown brown them briskly in Slice the fillets of of 2 young rabbits the shoulder Using the them. Using cooking them. without aetually actually cooking butter without add to and add forcemeat and prepare aa fine fine foreemeat ftesh to itit flesh and boned legs, legs, prepare and boned FORCEMEATS). weight of Pork Porkforcemeat half forcemeat (see FORCEM EA TS). half its weighl (see paste (see Fine lining paste with Fine mould with round mould Line Line an an oval oval or or round of bottom with aa layer of sides and the bottom DOUGH) DOUGH) and and spread the sides forcemeat. the forcemeat. rows, putting them in rows, of rabbit meat putting Fil! Fill the pie with with sliees slices of in tossed in lightly tossed truffies, lightly of trumes, with slivers slivers of covering each each row row with forcemeat. butter, and and aa layer of the forcemeat. pie in in the the the pie finish ma making lid and and finish Coyer king the Cover with with aa pastry !id hours, l| hours, to li for 1I 10 moderate oven oven for in aa moderate usual way. way. Bake Bake in usual size. depending depending on on the size. MERLES -pie. PÂTÉ DE MERLES rArf DE DE GRIVES, GRIvEs, DE TbrllSh Thrush or or blackbird blackbird pie. as blackbirds, as and blackbirds, stuffed thrushes and and stufTed Prepare, using boned and pie. pie or or Woodcock Woodcock pie. for Lark Lark pie recipe for in the described described in the recipe pArE DE L'.a,RDnNNlIsn DE GRIVES GRIvES ÀA L'ARDENNAISEpie ài l'ardennaise. Thrush pie I'ardennaise. PÂTÉ Thrush juniper-flavoured ÀA gratin gratin stuff with with juniper-/lavoured Bone the the thrushes ihrushes and and stuff Bone like Quai! Arrange Iike (see FORCEMEATS). game forcemeat FORCEMEATS). Arrange game Quail forcemeat (see lightly bacon, lightly piece of of lean lean bacon, pie,butwithout Put aa piece truffles. Put but without the pie, the trumes. each thrush. thrush. fried fried in in butter, butter, between between each of pie aa few tablespoons of few tablespoons pour into into the the pie Just before before serving serving pour Just and carcases and the carcases game stock, from the made from stock, made concentrated concentrated game berries. with juniper berries. parings ofthrushes, flavoured withjuniper parings of thrushes, flavoured pArf DE u CÉVENOLE cfvnNorn -pie ài la on GRIVES cRIvEs ÀI LA Thrush pie la cévenole. c6venole. PÂTÉ Thrush with À,i stuffed with pre, using thrushes stuffed boned thrushes Prepare as ai Quai! using boned Prepare Quatl pie, pie the pie (see FORCEMEA Garnish the gratin game forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). gratingameforcemeat TS). Garnish ofbacon, lean rashers rashers ofbacon, and lean chestnuts and with half-cooked half-cooked braised braised chestnuts with fried. scalded and and Iightly lightly fried. scalded game of Madeira-/lavoured Madeira-flavoured game Pour inin aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of Pour (q.v.). fumet fumet (q.v.). pArf DE rRuFFEs lux TRUFFESsfclssss AUX pie wilh oEBÉCASSES Woodcock pie with ImIDes. truffies. PÂTÉ Woodcock (see DOUGH). Coat DOUGH). Coat paste (see pie mould lining paste Line aa pie with Fine Fine lining mouldwith Line

MEAT MEA T PIES. PIES. pArfs PÂTÉS DE DE VIANDES VIANDES DIvERsEs. DIVERSES. p.a.nI$nNws Beef Beef pie pic ià la la parisienne. parisienne. pArf PÂTÉ DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A À r^1, LA PARISIENNELine Line aa pie pie mould mould with with Fine Fine lining lining paste paste (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Coat Coat

the the bottom bottom and and the the sides sides with wit h Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat forcemeal (see (see FORCEMEATS) - halfFORCEMEA TS) made made of of aa mixture mixture of of beef beef and and veal vealhalfand-half. and-half. Marinate Marinate for for I1 hour hour thin thin slices slices of of fillet fillet of of beef beef in in white white wine wine and and brandy brandy withfines withfines herbes herbes (q.v.) (q.v.) and and chopped chopped shallots, shallots, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and spices. spices. Fry Fry the the slices slices quickly quickly in in butter butter until until they they are are half-cooked, half-cooked, and and leave leave to to get get

cold. cold. Put Put the the slices slices into into the the pie pie in in layers, layers, scattering scatlering sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, fried fried in in butter, butter, on on each each layer. layer. Add Add a a layer layer of of pastry forcemeat, forcemeat, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter, butter, cover coyer with with pastry and and finish finish the the pie. pie. Bake Bake in in aa slow slow oven oyen from from I1 to to lf l! hours. hours. in aa few Before serving, pour Before serving, pour in few tablespoons tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace down with sauce SAUCE), boiled sauce (see (see SAUCE), boiled down with the the marinating marinating liquor. liquor. Beefsteak See BEEF. Beefsteak pie pic - See BEEF. See BEEF. Beefsteak Beefsteak and and kidney kidney pie pie -- See BEEF. A Calves'sweetbreads Calves' sweetbreads pie pie aa I'ancienne. l'ancienne. pArf PÂTÉ DE DE RIs RIS on DE vsA,u VEAU À lining paste dish with Line aa low L'ANcTBNNE L'ANCIENNE - Line low pie pie dish with Fine Fine lining paste (see (see with aa layer layer of sides with and sides DOUGH). Coat the bottom Coat the DOUGH). bottom and of (see FORCEMEATS) with mixed with FORCEMEATS) mixed 11 (see Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat Il mushrooms, and mushrooms, layer of of truffles truffies and Put in in aa layer chopped truflles. truffies. Put chopped calf add 22 calf this add top of of this On top fried in in butter. butter. On lightly fried sliced and and lightly sliced (q.v.). Cover Cover in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.). sweetbreads, half-braised half-braised in sweetbreads, melted butter. butter. with melted Sprinkle with with truflles truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Sprinkle with oven pie. Bake in aa modcrate moderate oven Bake in pastry lid Put on lid and finish the the pie. and finish on aa pastry Put on its its size. size. for 45 45 minutes depending on minutes 10 to 1t hour, hour, depending for sauce of Velouté Velouti sauce pour in Before serving, in aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of serving, pour Before (see SAUCE) with cream. cream. SAUCE) cooked cooked with (see slic€d pie can calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads sliccd This pie filled with with calves' can also also be be filled This and lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. butter. and pArE D'AGNEAU tl perigourdine 1. I. PÂTÉ o'.lcNsA,u ÀA LA pie lii la Lamb pie la périgourdine Lamb pEntcounorNs Line aa pie pastry. Coyer the sides pie mould sides with paslry. Cover the mould with PÉRIGOURDtNE-- Line (see pork forcemeat pounded Veal with finely finely pounded Veal and and pork forcemeat (see with FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads rows of Fill the of lambs' the dish dish with with alterna alternate Fill te rows gras and andslivers of truffies, of/ore gras half-cooked in in butter, butter, slices slices offoie half-cooked slivers oftruffies, Cover forcemeat. Coyer with aa layer layer of of rorcemeat. lightly fricd fried in in butter, butter, ending ending with lightly in pastry. Bake hour. Pour Pour in for 45 45 minutes minutes to to 1I hour. piece of with aa piece Bake for of pastry. with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). few tablespoons sauce (see of Périgueux Pirigueux sauce tablespoons of aa few pArf D'AGNEAU tl perigourdine II. II. PÂTÉ D'lct{snu ÀA LA pie ài la Lamb pie la périgou.rdille Lamb pfnrcounplNr Prepare as previous recipe, but replace replace recipe, but in previous as in PÉRIGOURDINE -- Prepare fillets of loin or or fillets of of loin lambs' sweetbreads by little little escalopes escalopes of sweetbreads by lambs' just long stiffen enough to to stiffcn long enough for jusl lamb, briskly briskly fricd fried in in butter butter for lamb, them. them. pie. PÂTÉ D'AGNEAU -DE RIS RIs D'AGNEAU rArf CHAUD Lamb sweetbreads sweetbreads pie. cHAUD DE Lamb pie, using lambs' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, using lambs' Prepare as as Calves' Calves' sweetbreads sweetbreads pie, Prepare blanched and fried in in butter. butter. lightly fried and lightly blanched pArf DE (Car6me's recipe). pie (Carême's nn recipe). PÂTÉ Anglo-French muttoll mutton pie Anglo-Frellch fillets of the fillets of 44 'Having trimmed trimmed the MouroN ANGLO-FRANÇAIS ANcLo-FRANqAIS -- 'Having MOUTON both on both slices and andseason season on into slices loins of cut and and trim trim into of mutton, mutton, cul toins ground pepper pepper and Then nutmeg. Then and nutmeg. sides with with salt, salt, coarsely coarsely ground sides 693 693

PIE PIE oz., J I cup) cup) Isigny Isigny butter, butter,add add 22 warm slightly 225 g. (8 OZ., tablespoons (3 tablespoons) parsley, twice the amount of tablespoons (3 tablespoons) parsley, twice the amount of mushrooms and the same quantity of truffies, all finely mushrooms and the same quantity of truffies, aIl finely chopped, and a blanched and chopped shallot. chopped, and a blanched and chopped shallot. 'I,ile the pie dish with Fine lining paste (see DOUGH), dip 'Line the pie dish with Fine Iining pasle (see DOUGH). dip the fillets into the butter auxfines herbes and,one by one, prrl the fillets into the butter aux fines herbes and. one by one. put them in the pie dish, arranging them in a circle. Fill the middle them in the piedish, arranging them in a circle. Fil! the middle with cooked white mushrooms, sliced truffies or artichoke with cooked white mushrooms, sliced truffies or artichoke hearts, or some escalopes of lambs' or calves' sweetbreads. hearts, or sorne escalopes of lambs' or calves' sweetbreads. Sprinkle the rest ofthe butter auxfines herbes on top. Sprinkle the rest of the butter aux fines herbes on top. 'Finish making the pie and put in a lively oven. Bake for l| _ 'Finish ma king the pie and put in a lively oyen. Bake for 1t hours. When ready to serve, remove any fat, cover witfi bours. Wh en ready to serve, rem ove any fat, coyer with mutton demi-glace (see SAUCE, Demi-glace sauce) blended mutton demi-glace (see SA UCE, Demi-glace sauce) blended with mushroom or truffle essence, and add the juice of I with musbroom or truffie essence, and add the juice of 1 lemon. lemon. 'Or you can remove surplus fat from the hot pie and pour 'Or you can remove surplus fat from the hot pie and pour over a good Espagnole sauce with mushrooms, truffies, over a good Espagnole sauce with mushrooms, truffies, artichoke hearts and lambs' sweetbreads, or Tomato sauce artichoke hearts and lam bs' sweetbreads, or Tomalo sauce (see SAUCE).' (see SAUCE).' pArf Mutton pie (English cookery). PÂTÉ DE DE MOUTON MouroN ÀA Mutton pie (English cookery). L'ANGLAIsE This pie is made with mutton in the same way as L·ANGLAISE·- This pie is made with multon in the sa me way as Beefsteak pre (see BEEF). Beefsteak pie (see BEEF). Small mutton pies or mutton patties. pETrrs pArss or Small million pies or mullon palties. PETITS PÂTÉS DE MouroN A L'a,uct,Llse Line deep tartlet tins with Ordinary MOUTON À L'ANGLAISE -- Liue deep tartlet tins with Ordinary Iining paste (see DOUGH). Fill with diced mutton, half fat lining pasle (see DOUGH). Fil! with diced mullon, half fat half lean. Season with salt and pepper and sprinkle with half lean. Season with sail and pepper and sprinkle with chopped fne s he r be s (q.v. ). choppedfines herbes (q.v.). Cover with lids of Puff pastry (see DOUGH), sealing the Coyer with lids of Puff paslry (see DOUGH), sealing the edges. Brush the tops with beaten egg and make a small hole edges. Brush lhe 10PS with beaten egg and make a small hole in the middle of each pie. Bake in a moderate oven for 40 in the middle of each pie. Bake in a moderate oyen for 40 minutes. Pour into each patty I tablespoon Demi-glace sauce minutes. Pour into each patty 1 tablespoon Demi-glace sauce warm slightly 225 g. (8

(see

brush with with beaten beatenegg. egg.Bake Bakeininaamoderate moderate oyen ovenfor forlillhours. brush hours. When the pie isiscooked, pourininaafew the pie cooked, pour few tablespoons tablespoons of of When concentratedchicken chickenstock. stock. concentrated pAts DE pouLARDE EN pieII. Chicken pie II. PÂTÉ nePOULARDE ENPANTIN pie isis rANTTN- - This This pie Chicken shaped by by hand hand using usingaaboned bonedfowl, fowl, stuffed stuffedwith with aafine finefoie shaped foie gras forcemeat; forcemeat; or orslices slices of of chicken chicken and and truffie truffie rolled rolled into into gras ballottines, half half cooked cooked ininchicken chickenstock, get cold. stock, and and left left toto get cold. ballottines, Put the thechicken, chicken, covered coveredwith with bacon bacon rashers, rashers, ou on an an ovalovalPut shaped piece pieceof pastry. Coyer of pastry. pastry and Cover with with pastry and seal seal the the edges. edges. shaped Decorate the the top pie with top of of the the pie pastry eut with pastry cut out out inin fancy fancy Decorate shapes. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg, egg, make make aa hole hole to to allow allow steam steam to to ~bapes. escape. Bake Bake in in aa moderate moderate oyen oven for for l-jltto hours depending depending escape. to 22 hours on the size of the size pie. of the the pie. on Just before before serving serving pour pour inin aa few few tablespoons tablespoons brown brown Just chicken stock stock flavoured flavoured with (q.v.) or with trume truffie fumet chicken or chicken chicken fumer (q.v.) Veloutd sauce sauce cooked cooked with (see SAUCE). with cream cream (see SAUCE). Velouté The sauce sauce can can be be served served separately. separately. The pArs DE pouLARDE - Prepare pie III. Chicken pie III. PÂTÉ nr POULARDE pie in the pie in aa Chicken - prepare the mould, following following the general instructions the general given for instructions given for the the mould, preparation of of such such pies. pies. preparation poultry or Fill with with slices slices of of fillets fillets of fowl fried of fowl fried in in butter; butter; Poullry or Fill (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), truflles truffies and Quenelle forcemeat (see and other other Quenelleforcemeat garnish. Coyer Cover the pie, decorate the pie, decorate the the top, top, brush brush with with beaten garnish. egg and and bake in aa moderate bake in moderate oven. oven. Serve Serve hot hot or or cold. cold. egg pAre DE Rouen duckling pie lii la duckling pie la rouennaise. rouennaise. PÂTÉ oe CANETON cANEroN DE ROllen RoUEN À A LA r.,c, ROUENNAISE nouENNArsE -- Roast Roast aa plump plump Rouen Rouen duckling duckling ROUEN keeping itit very very underdone. underdone. Cut Cut the the breast breast into into slices. slices. Skin keeping the legs, legs, remove remove the pound the the bones, bones, pound flesh in in Ila mortar the flesh mortar and and the rub itit tbrough through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add to to itit three three times times its weight of À I rub gratin forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) and and sorne some diced gratin forcemeat (see truffies. Add the blood, pressed out blood, pressed out of the duckling's duckling's carcase, truffies. Add the to the forcemeat. forcemeat. Season Season weil well and and add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 to the tablespoons) Calvados Calvados which tablespoons) which has been set alight. Choose an oval-shaped (either aa hinged Choose an oval-shaped mould mould (either hinged mould or one with sides), and and line (see one with low low sides), line it it with with Fine Fine lining paste (see DOUGH) mixed DOUGH) mixed with with truffies truffies shredded into into a a fine julienne julienne (q.v.). (q.v.). Coat Coat the the sides sides and and bottom bottom with with a layer of piulty Poullry or Quenelle Quenelle forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Fill EII the pie with slices slices of of duckling, duckling, alternating alternating with with layers layers of of the the truffled truffied forcemeat forcemeat dà gratin gratin and aud sliced sliced mushrooms mushrooms and truffies, truffies, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Finish Finish with with aa layer layer of of poultry poultry forcemeat, cover cover with with aa piece piece of of rolled-out rolled-out pastry pastry and and finish finish making making the the pie pie in in the the usual usual manner. manner. Bake Bake in in aa moderate moderate oven oyen for for 11 to to lf l± hours, hours, depending depending on on the the size, size, then then pour pour in in aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Rouennaise Rouennaise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Foie Foie gras gras and and truffie Iruffle pie. pie. rArf PÂTÉ DE DE ForE FOIE cRAS GRAS AUx AUX TRUFFEs TRUFFESThis This type type of of pie pie is is usually usually made made by by filling filling aa pie pie crust crust baked baked blind, blind, lined lined with with aa layer layer of ofFoie Foie gras graspurde purée (see (see PUREE) PUREE) or or 7À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), with with a a whole whole foie foie gras gras cooked cooked in in liqueur liqueur wine. wine. Garnish Garnish with with sliced sliced truffies truffies fried fried lightly lightly in in butter, butter, and and aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of sauce, sauce, flavoured flavoured with with liqueur liqueur wine wine and and mixed mixed with with the the concentrated concentrated liquor liquor left left from from cooking cooking the the liver. liver. Foie Foie gras graspie pie can can also also be be prepared prepared as as Chicken Chickenpje. pie. The The liver liver isis half-cooked half-cooked with with port, port, placed placed in in aa mould mould lined lined with with Flne Fine Iining liningpaste paste (see (see DOUGH), DOUGH), coated coated with with aa layer layer of offorcemeat, forcemeat, covered covered with with aa lid Iid of ofpastry, pastry. and and finished finished as as described described in in the the general generalinstructions instructions on onmaking rnakingpies. pies. After After baking, baking, aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (seeSAUCE) SAUCE)cooked cookedwith withtruffie/zzet trufllefumet(q.v.) (q.v.)are arepoured pouredinto into the thepie. pie. Guinea Guinesfowl fowlpie. pie. pArn PÂTÉos DEeTNTADE PINTADE-- Prepare Prepareas as Chicken Chickenpie, pie, using usingaaboned bonedguinea guinea fowl, fowl,stuffed stu(fed withfoie withfoiegra.s grasand andtruffies. truffies. This This pie pie can can also al50 be be prepared prcpared using using cooked cooked and and jointed jointed guinea guineafowl. fowl. Pigeon Pigeonpie. pie.nAru PÂTÉDE DEprcEoN PIGEONAÀL'^e.NclqJSn L'ANGLAISE-- Line Liuethe thebottom bottom and and sides si des of ofaa pie pie dish dish with with thin thin rashers rasbers of ofsmoked smoked bacon. bacon.

SAUCE).

(see SAUCE). These patties are eaten hot or cold. These patties are eaten hot or cold. Porkpie- See PORK. Pork pie - See POR K. Pork pie i la hongroise. pAr6 DE poRc .A, ra noNcRorsE Pork pie il III hongroise. PÂTÉ DE PORC À LA HONGROISE I..ine a pie mould with Fine lining paste (see DOUGH). Coat Line a pie mould with Fine Iining paste (see DOUGH). Coat the sides and the bottom with Quenelle forcemeat II (see the sides and the bottom with Quenelle jorcemeat If (see FORCEMEATS) spiced with chopped chives and seasoned FORCEMEATS) spiced with chopped chives and seasoned with paprika. with paprika. Line the bottom of the pie with a thick layer of diced onions Line the bollom of the pie with a thick layer of diced onions and mushrooms, cooked gently in butter, seasoned with salt and mushrooms, cooked gently in butter, seasoned with salt and paprika and bound with a few tablespoons of Velout| and paprika and bound with a few tablespoons of Velouté sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). On this garnish put thin slices or pork, previously marOn this garnish put thin slices or pork, previously marinated and browned quickly in butter. Cover with a layer of inated and browned quickly in butter. Coyer with a layer of forcemeat, put on a pastry lid and finish the pie. BakL in a forcemeat, put on a pastry lid and finish the pie. Bake in a slow oven for I or l*hours. slow oyen for 1 or 1i hours. Just before serving, pour in a few tablesp oons of Hungarian Just beforeserving, pour in a few tablespoons of HungarÎan sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). This type of pie is usually served as a croustade (q.v.). This type of pie is usually served as a croustade (q.v.). Fillet of veal pie. pArs oe FrLET DE vEAU - proceed as for Fillel of veal pie. PÂTÉ DE FILET DE VEAU - Proceed as for Beef pie d la parisienne, u;sing slices of veal and euenelle Beef pie à la parisienne, using slices of veal and Quenelle ceme at (see FORCEM EATS). for forcemeal (see FORCEMEATS).

POULTRY PIES. pArfs DE voLATLLES. POUL TR Y PIES. PÂTÉS DE VOLAILLES. Chicken pie I. rArf DE pouLET A r'ANcunrsr - Joint a Chickeo pie 1. PÂTÉ DE POULET À L'ANGLAISE - .loint a medium-sized chicken. Sprinkle the pieces with finely

medium-sized chicken. Sprinkle the pieces with finely chopped shallots, onion, mushrooms and parsley, and season chopped shallots, on ion, mushrooms and parsley, and season with salt and pepper. with salt and pepper. Line a pie dish with thin, seasoned slices of veal. Line a pie dish with thin, seasoned slices of veal. Put in the joints, first the legs, then the wings and breast. Put in the joints, first the legs, then the wings and brcast. Cover with 150 g. (5 oz.) bacon cut into thin rashers. Add 4 Coyer with 150 g. (5 oz.) bacon cut into thin rashers. Add 4 halved yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pour in chichen stock to halved yolks of hard-boiled eggs. Pour in chichen stock to cover the ingredients up to three-quarters. coyer the ingredients up to three-quarters. Wet the edges of the pie dish and press on a band of pastry. Wet theedgesofthepie dish and press on a band ofpastry. Brush this over with a little water and cover with a lid, of puff Brush this over with a little water and coyer with a lid of Puff pastry (see DOUGH). Press the edges well together, and paslYy (see DOUGH). Press the edges weil together, and scallop the sides. Make a hole in the middle of the lid and scallop the sides. Make a hole iu the middle of the lid and 694 694

PIECES PIÈCES MONTEES MONTÈES alternate alternate rows, rows, sealing sealing them them down down with with a a thin thin layer layer of of forcemeat. forcemeaL Add Add truffles truffies cut eut in in quarters. quarters. Finish Finish offwith offwith aa thick thick

Sprinkle with with finely fineJy chopped chopped shallots shallots and and put put in in the the pigeons, pigeons, Sprinkle

cut eut each each in in 4 pieces, pieces, seasoned with with salt and pepper pepper and and

sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped parsley. parsley. Add Add +1hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolk yolk

layer layer of of forcemeat. forcemeat. Roll Roll out out the the rest rest of of the the pastry pastry into into a a circle circle of of the the same same diameter diameter as as the the opening of of the the mould. mou Id. Put Put itit over over the the pie pie and and seal and and crimp crimp the the edges. edges. Brush the the top top with with beaten beaten egg egg and and decorate decorate with with pieces pieces of of pastry pastry cut eut in in fancy shapes. shapes. Make Make a hole hole in in the the middle. middle. Roll Roll a a piece piece of of buttered buttered cardboard cardboard and and put put it it into into the the hole, hole, to to hasten hasten the the cooking cooking process proeess and and to to prevent prevent the the pie pie walls walls from from subsiding. su bsiding. Brush Brush with with beaten beaten egg egg once again. again. Bake Bake the the pie pie in in the the oven oyen for for about about ll 1 hours hours at moderate moderate heat. heat. Leave Leave the the pie pie until until it it is completely completely cold. cold. Pour Pour into into it it some sorne melted melted butter butter or or lard lard to to seal any any gaps. gaps. When When this this is is solidified, solidified. turn turn out out the the pie. pie. If If itit is is to to be eaten immediately, immediately, pour pour in in aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of aspic aspic jelly jelly (see (see ASPIC). ASPIC).

for for each each pigeon. pigeon. Pour Pour in in some sorne light light brown brown stock stock to to about about half-way. half-way. Wet Wet the the pastry around edges edges of of the the pie pie dish dish and and put put aa border border of ofpastry around them. them. Brush Brush with a little little water and and cover coyer with with a lid lid of of puff puff pastry. Press Press the the edges edges well together, together, make make aa hole in the the centre and brush brush over with beaten beaten egg. Bake Bake in a moderate moderate oven oyen for for 1

l|t

hours. hours. Pour stock into Pour a few tablespoons tablespoons of ofstock into the the pie. pie. Pigeon Pigeon pie pie iil la la languedocienne. pArf PÂTt os DE ptceoN PIGEON A À Ll LA LANGUEDocIENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Proceed Proceed as described described for Pigeon Pi/ieon pie pie with wilh mushrooms (see below), below), replacing the last last two mushrooms and truffics truffies (see ingredients by a garnish of of salsify, salsify, cooked in in a court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), and fried (q.v.), cut into little sticks and fried in butter; stoned and blanched olives; olives; button button mushrooms; mushrooms; sliced slieed chicken chic ken livers scaled and fried lean bacon. saut6ed sautéed in butter; and and cut eut up, scaled bacon. Before Before serving serving put put a a few few tablespoons of of concentrated brown stock into the pie. brown veal stock Pigeon Pigeon pie pie with with mushrooms and truffes. truffles. pArf PÂTÉ pe DE ptcEoN PIGEON AUX AUX TRUFFEs cHAMpIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS ET AUx AUX TRUFFES - Line a shallow mould with Fine lining Iining paste (see DOUGH). OOUGH). Coat the sides and bottom bottom with with truffied truffied Quenelleforcemeat Quenelle forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). (see FORCEMEA TS). Put Put the the truffies trumes and and mushrooms, sliced and and lightly sliced lightly tossed tossed in in butter, butter. in in the the pie pie dish. dish. Add Add 2 pigeons, Cover in 4 pieces pigeons, each cut cut in pieees and browned in butter. Coyer with truffies Sprinkle with and mushrooms. Sprinkle truffies and with melted melted butter. Cover Coyer with pastry, finish making making the pie in the usual manner about I1 hour. oven for aboul and bake in the oyen (see sauce (see Veloutd sauce Pour in aa few of chicken chicken Velouté few tablespoons Pour in tablespoons of or SAUCE) cooked with cream and flavoured SAUCE) f1avoured with Madeira Madeira or any other wine. pAr6s CHAUDS poultry. PÂTÉS crhuos oe Hot pies made of various various kinds of poultry, DE of turkeys and geese etc., voLAILLEs - These These pies can be made ofturkeys VOLAlLLESby following the recipes given for Chicken pie. stuffed, or sliced. whole, The birds are used who le, boned and stuffed,

±

SWEET PIES. SWEET PIES. pArfs PÂTÉS D'ENTREMENTS D'ENTREMENTSApple pie pie ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. pArn PÂTÉ DE DE poMMEs POMMES A À t'.lNctllsn L'ANGLAISE g. (12 ( I 8 oz., 4+cups) Ingredients. sifted flour, Ingredients. 500 g. g. (18 4t cups) sifted flour, 350 350 g. (12 oz., oz., l|li cups) butter, oz.,2tablespoons) butter, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz .. 2 tablespoons) fine fine sugar, sugar, 22 egg egg yolks, (+ pint, salt. scant cup) yolks, 22 dl. dl. (j pint, seant cup) water water and and lj li teaspoons teaspoons saiL Put the flour circle on f10ur in in aa circle on the the board, board, make make a a well weil in in the the middle, middle, put put into into it it the salt and sugar and dissolve dissolve these these in in the the water. wateL Add Add the yolks. yolks. Mix Mix the the pastry pastry without without kneading kneading too too 2 much. Roll into much. Roll into a ball bail and leave leave to to stand in in aa cool cool place place for for 2 hours. hours. quarters, remove and eut cut into Cut the apples into Cut into quarters, remove core, peel peel and into dome. thick sliees. slices. Put dish, piling thick Put into into aa pie pie dish, piling them them up up into into a a dome. Sprinkle with Sprinkle with sugar mixed with with a little !ittle powdered powdered cinnamon. cinnamon. of pastry Wet of the the pie dish and edges of Wet the the edges pie dish and put put a a border border of pastry cover and coyer little water around them. Brush this over with this over with aa little water and pressing the edges with rolled out out to with the pastry, pastry, rolled to form form aa lid, lid, pressing the edges of with fancy well decorate ",~th Scallop the sides, decorate weIl together. together. Scallop fancy pieces pieees of 45 for 45 pastry, in a slow oyen oven for with beaten egg and bake in pastry, brush with minutes to minutes to 1I hour. are especially especially pies. GÂTEAUX DE NOËL NoEr -- These pies Mince pies. cArn.lux DE Mince pies are 'the cakes cakes popular in A. Suzanne, 'the in England. They They are, are, wrote popular wrote A. pre-eminent are pre-eminent which, with with the the traditional which, traditional plum plum pudding, pudding, are dinner.' Christmas dinner.' among the dishes of of the copious copious Christmas among pastry pib crust flaky pastry or f1aky of pie crust or Fill small deep tartlets tartlets made made of Fill pastry with with aa hole hole flaky pastry with th thin with mincemeat. mincemeat. Coyer Cover with with in f1aky hot oyen, and bake in in aa bot oven, and pricked in with egg, bake in the middle. middle. Brush with pricked pies: for mince pies: is aa French French recipe for serve hot. Here is for 66 to to 88 days days the the to soak soak for and leave to Mincemeat. Mincemeal. Prepare and following ingredients: ingredients : following g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) (4 oz.) g. (4 beef, 50 50 g. fillet of of beef, 100 g. chopped tillet finely chopped oz.) finely 100 (2 oz.) g. (2 fat pickled tongue oz.) cbopped chopped fat diced, 50 50 g. finely diced, tongue very very finely pickled (4 oz g. (4 o2.,3 g. (4 (4 oz.,·j 100 g. sultanas, 100 bacon, 100 100 g. o2.,3 cup) sultanas, bacon, .. ~ cup) ",rp) "up)blanched and chopped almonds, (2 oz.,·~ chopped almonds, g. (2 cup) currants, 50 50 g. oz. , I cup) the pinch of g. (2 (2 oz., spices, the of mixed mixed spiees, sugar, aa pinch oz., I cup) 50 g. cup) brown brown sugar, 50 juice of grated rind ingredients Mix these these ingredients lemon. Mix rind and of aa lemon. and juice grated glass of brandy. together, adding adding half half aa glass of brandy. together, g. (18 oz., g. (18 flour, 100 100 g. 4] cups) sieved f1our, oz., 4! cups) sieved crust -- 500 Special pie crUSI 500 g. Special ll (4 oz., (4 oz.) g. (4 egg, I~ butter, 1I egg, oz., ti cup) butter, oz.) beef beef suet, suet, 100 100 g. (4 ",rp) (6 tablespoons, Knead water. Knead scant teaspoons salt, 1I dl. tablespoons, scant dl. (6 teaspoonssalt, tcup) Icup) wateL to dough. Leave Leave itit to firm rather these into a all ingredients ail these ingredients into a rather firm dough. this Repeat this fold itit into into three. three. Repeat stand, then roll itit out and fold then roll out and stand, pieces and and into small small pieees the dough into operation twice Divide thedough twice more. Oivide operation pieces, making the making sure sure the with the tins with the pieees, deep buttered tartlet tartlet tins liline ne deep and mincemeat and with mincemeat Fill each tartlet with dough isis evellJy spread. Fill each tartlet evenly spread. dough pies should edges pastry lid. be sealed sealed at at the the edges The pies should be with aa pastry lid. The cover with coyer pies with with milk milk and and pastry pincers. pincers. Brush the pies with pastry Brush the the tops tops of of the with in aa hot hot oyen. oven. sugar. Cook Cook in sprinkle lightly lightly with with brown brown sugar. sprinkle

pArfs FROIDSCOLD PIES. PÂTÉS COLO FRorDs pArfs DE polssoNs -- These (cold). PÂTÉS These pies are os POISSONS Various fish pies (cold). be served hot. as those which which are are to be made in in the the same same way way as with in moulds Iined lined with made in can be be shaped by by hand or or made They can fine lining paste. pArf DE oval-shaped in an This is made in an ovaJ-shaped Ham pie. PÂTÉ JAMBoN - This nr JAMBON (see below). forcemeat pie (see Use forcemeat ham pie below). Use mould, like like Veal Veal and and ham mould, ham; or or lean ham; with chopped chopped Jean in that recipe, mixed mixed with that recipe, indicated in (see FORCEM also FORCEMEATS), butter (see with huiler Panada forcemeat EA TS), also forcemeat with and sliees slices ofraw of raw ham. When the pie mixed with chopped chopped ham and jelly (see (see pour into cold, pour into itit sorne some Madeira-Ilavoured Madeira-flavoured aspic jelly is cold, is is optional. in this pie is optional. The use use of truffies in ASPIC). The pArf DE pie. PÂTÉ Ingredients. vEAU ET ET JAMBON Veal and nn VEAU JAMBoN -- Ingredients. and barn ham pie. Veal (7 oz.) g. (7 (l I oz.) (l I oz.) g. (II g. (II lean pork, 200 200 g. oz.) lean 300 g. oz.) lean veal, 300 300 g. 300 pork (18 oz., generous 22 cups) fine Veal and pork g. (18 Veal and ham, 500 cups) fine ham, 500 g. oz., generous (7 oz.) g. (7 (see FORCEMEATS), fat bacon, bacon, 1I oz.) fat 200 g. FORCEMEATS), 200 forœmeat forcemeat (see (6 tablespoons, to 44 teaspoons teaspoons and 33 to dl. (6 tablespoons, scant·1 scant Icup) dl. cup) Madeira and (see SA Spiced salt salt (see SALT). Spiced L T). from the the veal taken taken from from the the veal all sinews sinews from Method. Remove Remove al! Method. (4 inches) inches) l0 cm. cm. (4 about 10 chump end and eut cut into into strips strips about end ofloin, of loin, and chump manner and and pork and in aa similar similar manner long. Prepare tbe and the the ham in the pork long. put al! with spiced spiced salt. salt. these mealS into aa bowL bowl. Season Season with all these meats into put hours. for several several hours. leave to to steep steep for Sprinkle with with Madeira and leave Madeira and Sprinkle (q.v.) and quantity of and herbes (q.v.) of fines with aa small small quantity Sprinkle with Sprinkle fines herbes shallots. chopped shallots. chopped (round, oval in shape) shape) with with Line the oval or or rectanguJar rectangular in the mould mould (round, Line left to to (see OOUGH), prepared in and Icft in advance advance and DOUGH), prepared Lining Lining paste (sec and fat bacon bacon and with thin rashers of of fat thin rashers rest for for sorne some time. Cover with time. Coyer rest (see pork forcemeal fine Veal coat with with aa layer layer of of fine Veal and and pork coat forcemeat (see pork and in pie with ham in veal, pork and ham with veal, FORCEMEATS). Fil! Fill the the pie FORCEMEATS).

*

practice culinary practice PITCES MONTÉES In old-fashioned old-fashioned culinary MONTEES - In PIÈCES pieces, which were onen often which were decorative pieees, much use use was was made made of of decorative much frequently monmonThey were were frequently ingredients. They made of of inediblc inedible ingredients. made 695 695

PIED.DE-CHEVAL PIED-DE-CHEVAL umental affairs affairs and andnow now only only survive survive to to aa sm small extent inin umental aU extent pastry-making. pastry-making. PIED-DE-CHEVAL -- Variety Variety of of large large oysters, greatly oysters, not not greatly PlED-DE-CHEVAL esteemed in in Europe. Europe. esteemed

boil, coyer coverthe the casserole casserole and cook in and cook in the theoyen oven from from 25 25 to boil, to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Arrange the pigeon on the pigeon on aa serving serving dish, dish, surround surround with Arrange with garnish and pour the and pour the sauce sauce over over it. it. garnish prceoNNrAu EN Compote of pigeon D. of pigeon II. PIGEONNEAU EN COMPOTE coMporE -- Fry Fry Compote scalded fat fat bacon, bacon, inin 11 tablespoon tablespoon butter. butter. Add Add blanched scalded blanched onions and mushrooms. mushrooms. Fry Fry together, together, then then drain on ions and drain aU all the the garnish. garnish. put 1I Brown the pigeon in the pigeon in the the same same fat fat and and remove remove it. it. Put Brown tablespoon flour flour into into aa casserole, casserole, moisten moisten with with 11 dl. tablespoon dl. (6(6 tablespoons, scant scant * cup) cup) white white wine, boil down, wine, boil down, add tablespoons, add 22 dl. dl. (t @ pint, scant scant cup) cup) white white stock stock and and boil boil down down by by one-third. one-third. pint, pigeon and Put the the pigeon garnish back and its its garnish back in in the the casserole, casserole, add Put add aa bouquet garni garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and and cook cook with with aa lid lid on on for for 25 bouquet 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. prcsoNNrlu Ài LA Pigeon ài la la crapaudine. crapaudine. PIGEONNEAU u CRAPAUDINE cRAIAUDTNE -Pigeon pigeon horizontally, Split the the pigeon horizontally, from from the the tip tip of of the the breast breast to Split to the the wings. Open Open it, it, flatten flatten slightly, slightly, spread spread with with melted melted butter wings. butter and and season with with salt pepper. Grill salt and and pepper. Grill slowly slowly until until both both sides season sides are are golden. golden. Arrange the the pigeon on on aa dish dish and and decorate decorate the the border border with Arrange with gherkins cut row of of gherkins (see cut in in s\ices. slices. Serve with Diable Serve with aa row Diable sauce sauce (see sAUCE). SAUCE). pTcEoNNEAU prepare as Pigeon ài la la diable. diable. PIGEONNEA A LA r,c, DIABLE orA.sre -- Prepare Pigeon U À as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Grilled (see Grilled chicken chicken àd la described la diable diable (see cHrcKElg. CHICKEN). pTcEoNNEAUU EN FRlTOT Fried pigeon. pigeon. PIGEONNEA FRrror -- Preparelike Prepare lik e Chicken Fried CHICKEN). fritot (see CHICKEN). frilot(see pTcEoNNEAU GRILLÉ pigeon ài la Saint-Germain. PIGEONNEAU Grilled pigeon cnnlt ÀA LA u sAINT-cERMATN -- Split the pigeon pigeon open, open, remove most of the SAINT-GERMAIN the bones, flatten flatten slightly, season with salt salt and pepper, spread bones, spread with melted butter, butter, coyer cover on on both both sides sides with grated with freshly freshly grated melted grill slowly. breadcrumbs, sprinkle with butter, and griU Arrange the pigeon on the pigeon on aa dish. dish. Put some rather Arrange Put sorne rather thick BCarnaise (see SA SAUCE) Béarnaise sauce (see UCE) on both sides and garnish wth Potatoes à d la parisienne POTATOES). Potatoes parisienne (see POT A TOES). Boil down a few tablespoons of of veal stock, add add butter and and pour round the veal stock, pigeon. pigeon. Pigeon ài la Maitre-Jacques Maître-Jacques (old recipe). prcroxNslu PIGEONNEAU A À rA, LA Pigeon udrnn-rlcquEs 'Bone 2 MAîTRE-JACQUES - 'Bone 2 pigeons pigeons completely. completely. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper and and spices and and stuff with with the the following forcemeat: 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., It cup) chopped onion softened in butter, 1100 00 g. (parings and cups) dried dlied duxelles g. (4 (4 oz., 44cups) duxelles(parings and stalks stalks of of chopped chopped mushrooms), mushrooms), 2 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped parsley, the chopped livers ofthe of the pigeons, pigeons, I1 egg, egg, I1 tablespoon 50 g. (5 oz.) tablespoon ofbrandy, ofbrandy, salt salt and pepper, pepper, I150 oz.) Fine Fine pork pork forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Roll RoU the the pigeons pigeons into into forcemeat ballotines wrap each each in in aa very thin,large thin, large escalope escalope ballotines (q.v.) (q.v.) and wrap veal seasoned of ofveal seasoned with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and spices. spices. Tie Tie the the pigeons pigeons as as ballottines. ballottines. Put Put into into aa casserole casserole on on aa foundation foundation ofbacon of bacon rinds, rinds, carrots carrots and and onions onions chopped chopped and and fried fried in in butter. butter. Simmer Simmer on on the the stove stove with on for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Moisten Moisten with with 11 glass glass Madeira, Madeira, with aa lid lid on boil thickened brown boil down down and and add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofthickened brown veal veal stock stock in in sufficient sufficient quantity quantity to to cover coyer the the pigeons. pigeons. Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the ballottines ballottines and and remove remove the the string. string. Put Put them them into into an an earthenware earthenware cocotte. cocotte. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., mushrooms, tossed tossed in in butter, butter, and and 20 20 thick thick oz., 66 cups) cups) sliced sliced mushrooms, slices of truffies. truffles. Strain Strain the the braising braising liquor, liquor, boil boil down, down, add add 33 slices of tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant *i cop) cup) flaming flaming brandy, brandy, and and pour pour over over the the pigeons. ofthe the cocotte cocottewith with flour-and-water flour-and-water paste. paste. pigeons. Seal Se al the the lid \id of Cook Cook in in the the oven oyen for for 40 40 minutes minutes and and serve serve inthe in the cocotte. cocotte. Pigeon Pigeon ià la la minute. minute. pTcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU A Àu LA wxurn MINUTE -- Split Split the the pigeon half and and remove remove all ail small smaU bones. bones. Flatten Flatten slightly, s\ightly, pigeon in in half and and fry fry quickly quickly in in sizzling sizzIing butter. butter. When When the the pigeon pigeon isis almost almost cooked, cooked, add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion lightly Iightly fried fried in in butter. butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking together. together. Arrange Arrange the the pigeon pigeon on on aa dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices juices with with aa

PIfMONTAISE (À (A LA) LA) -- Garnish Garnish served served with with meat meat and and PIÉMONTAISE poultry. ItIt isis composed composed of of timbales timbales of of risotto, risotto, mixed mixed with with poultry. blanched, shredded shredded truffies, truffies, served served in in aa mound mound with with the the meat meat blanched, orpoultry. or poultry. PIERRY -- Name Name of of aa vineyard vineyard on on the the Épernay Epernay slope, slope, PIERRY producing grapes grapes from from which which excelIent excellent champagne champagne isis made. made. producing PIG. COCHON cocuoNSee PORK. PORK. PIG. - See

t

Wood pigeons pigeons Wood

prcEoNNEr,u PIGEON, SQUAB SQUAB -- PIGEONNEAU Granivorous bird bird of of PIGEON, -- Granivorous which there are many domestic and and wild species. The The which there are many domestic wild species. principal of these rock pigeons are rock or carrier carrier pigeons, from principal of these are pigeons or pigeons, from which the domesticated varieties evolved, the the ringdove ringdove or or which the domesticated varieties evolved,

wood wood pigeon pigeon whose whose flesh flesh is is much much esteemed esteemed by by gastronomes, gastronomes, and, turtledove or passenger and turtledove or passenger pigeon. pigeon. ' The The word word pigeon pigeon rarely rarely figures figures on on the the French French menu. menu. (squab) is Pigeonneau Pigeonneau (squab) is used used instead. instead. This This applies applies to to aa young, young, tender tender bird, bird, which which can can be be prepared prepared in in many many different different ways. ways. Unlike Unlike other other birds, birds, pigeon's pigeon's liver liver contains contains no no gall, gall, and and itit is is customary customary to to leave leave the the liver liver inside inside the the bird bird when when dressing dressing it. it. Pigeon is prepared drawn and for cooking cooking like Iike all alI other other Pigeon is drawn and prepared for domesticated domesticated birds. birds. It It should should be be barded barded before before being being roasted roasted on on aa spit spit or or cooked cooked in in aa casserole casserole or or aa cocotte. cocotte. Casserole Casserole of of pigeon pigeon or or pigeon pigeon en en cocotte. cocotte. pTcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEA U EN EN cAssERoLE, CASSEROLE, EN EN cocorrn COCOTTE -- Prepare Prepare like like Casserole Casserole of ofchicken chicken or or Chicken Chicken en en cocotte cocotte (see (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). Pigeon Pigeon ià la la catalan catalan (Catalan (Catalan style) style) or or en en pistache. pistache. prsrAcnr rIGEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU A À r.l, LA clr,q,LANE, CATALANE, EN EN PISTACHE -- Proceed Proceed as as described Partridge d à la la catalane catalane (see (see described in in the the recipe recipe for for Partridge PARTRIDGE). PARTRIDGE). Cold Cold pigeons. pigeons. prcEoNs PIGEONS FRorDs FROIDS -- Pigeons Pigeons and and squabs squabs can can be be prepared prepared in in any any way way suitable suitable for for poultry, poultry, particularly particularly for for spring spring chickens chickens and and grain-fed grain-fed poulets. poulets. (See (See CHICKEN.) CHICKÈN.) Cold Cold pigeons pigeons can can be be prepared prepared as as ballottines, ballottines, en en chaudchaudfroid, froid, en en daube daube dà la la gelie, gelée, galantines, galantines, mousses mousses or or mousselines, mousselines, loaves, loaves, pies pies and and terrines. terrines. Compote Compote of ofpigeon pigeon I.1. prcrolnreA.u PIGEONNEAU EN EN coMporr COMPOTE -- Brown Brown the the pigeon in butter and drain. Dilute Dilute the the pan panjuices juices with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 pigeon in butter and drain. tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ii cup) cup) white white wine, wine, boil boil down down by by twotwothirds, thirds, add add l{ li dl. dl. (+ (i pint, pint, Ji cup) cup) Demi-gtace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) and strain. strain. SA UCE) and Put Put the the pigeon pigeon back back in in the the casserole casserole with with 12 12 small smaU glazed g1azed onions, on ions, l2 12mushrooms mushrooms and and 50 50 g.g. (2 (2oz.,lcup) oz., icup)fat fat bacon baconcut cutin in dice, dice, scalded scalded and and fried. fried. Cover Coyer with with the the sauce, sauce, bring bring to to the the

696 696 Roastingchicken chickenon onthe thespit spit(Phot. (l'hot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Roasting

PIKE PIKE dash little dissolved add aa !ittle dissolved meat and !-j dash of of brandy, brandy, add meat jelly jelly and tablespoon chopped chopped parsley, over the pigeon. parsley, and pour pour over pigeon. Plgeon and mousselines. MoussELrNEs DE Pigeon mousse mousse and mousselines. uoussr, MOUSSE, MOUSSELINES PIGEoNNEAU Chicken mousse and mousselines mousselines Prepare like !ike Chicken PIGEONNEAU - Prepare (see (see CHICKEN). Pigeon Prepare like olrvEs -- Prepare Pigeon with olives. pIcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU AUx AUX OLIVES Duckling Duckling with olives (see DUCK). pTcEoNNEAU EN PAPILLOTE pAprLLorE -- Split the Pigeon Pigeon en papillote. PIGEONNEAU pigeon in half lengthways, partially partially bone the halves, season with salt and pepper, pepper, and fry in butter butter to stiffen them. Wrap greaseproofpaper each halfin ofaa half in buttered greaseproof paper cut in the shape of (see SAUCE) and heart, with Duxelles and lined heart, spread spread with Duxel/es sauce sauce (see with ham, as described described in the recipe for Veal Veal chops en ofham, with a slice slice of papillote (see VEAL). VEAL). Close thepapillote the papillote securely and cook in papillote (see the the oven. oven. Plgeon mushrooms and truffles trufles -- See PIE, Poultry Pigeon pie pie with witb musbroo~s pies. pETrrs pon Pigeon Pigeon with witb peas I. prcsoNNEA,u PIGEONNEAU AUx AUX PETITS POIS - Fry 50 g. (2 oz., *t cup) fat bacon and cup) diced and and blanched fat 12 small and 12 onions in butter. butter. When done remove remove these ingredients from the the saut6 sauté pan. In ln the the same sa me butter butter brown brown a pigeon pigeon trussed as for an entrée. entrie. juices with Remove Remove the pigeon. pigeon. Dilute Dilute the pan panjuices with white wine wine and thickened veal stock. Replace Replace the the pigeon pigeon in the sauté saut6 pan and add at add 4! dl. dl. (generous (generous iI pint, pint, 2 cups) cups) peas, aa bouquet garni (q.v.), the onions and lardoons. Season and finish finish cooking cooking together. Pigeon PIGEONNEAU AUx AUX pETrrs PETITS pors POIS - Truss Pigeon with witb peas II. prcnoNwsAu Truss the the pigeon pigeon as for for an an entie entrée and brown brown in butter. butter. Prepare Prepare Peas Peas dà la la frangaise française (see PEAS) and put the pigeon into the same same casserole. Moisten Moisten with the diluted pan juices and an equal amount amount of ofwater. Finish cooking cooking together. water. Finish Pigeon Ricbelieu. prcEoNNEAu PIGEONNEAU A À r,l LA RTcHELTEU RICHELIEU - Split Pigeon ià la Richelieu. the pigeon down down the back and open it out. Remove Remove most of the bones bones from the inside. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter butter until until both both sides sides are are golden. golden. Arrange Arrange on a serving dish, garnish with slivers sliven;; of truffie and put on top some sorne softened softened Maitre Maître d'h6tel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound pound butters). butters). Roast Roast pigeon. pigeon. pIcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU nOn RÔTI - Truss and bard bard the Truss and pigeon, and roast roast (see (see CULINARY pigeon, season on on the the inside and METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking cooking timefor limefor roasts). roasts). Garnish with with watercress. watercress. Serve Serve with with the the diluted diluted pan pan juices. juices. Garnish pigeon. pTcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU EN EN sALMts SALMIS - Proceed Proceed as Salmis of pigeon. Salmis described in in the the recipe recipe for for Salmis Salmis of woodcock woodcock (see (see described WOODCOCK). wooDcocK). Pigeon Pigeon stewed stewed with witb blood, blood, also also called called pigeon stew stew with witb blood blood (old (old recipe). recipe). pTcEoNNEAU PIGEONNEAU fruvf ÉTUVÉ AU sANG, SANG, Drr DIT AUs$ AUSSI fruvfe ÉTUVÉE pe DE pIcEoN pigeons keeping all ail the blood PIGEON AU sANG SANG -'Bleed - 'Bleed two pigeons and adding adding!vinegar to prevent prevent it from from coagulatand f tablespoon vinegar ing. mg. draw, singe and split the pigeons in half. Season Season 'Pluck, draw, and brown brown in in a a casserole casserole with with I1 with salt salt and and pepper pepper and with and keep keep hot in the fat. Remove and tablespoon grated bacon fat. oven. oven. Put 24 24 small small onions on ions and 100 100 g. (4 oz., slices) blanched blanched lean Put o2.,66 slices) cut in large large lardoons lardoons into the the casserole. casserole. bacon, cut bacono 'Fry a pale pale golden colour and sprinkle in in I1 tablespoon fiour. Cook for a moment, moment, then moisten with 4 dl. dl. (f
pigeon halves s!ightly. slightly. Season and and cook in butter, or braise. Leave to get cold under a press. (see SAUCE), Dip in in egg in Villeroi SAUCE), dip dip in egg and and Dip Villeroi sauce sauce (see parsley. Serve fried parsley. and fry. fry. Garnish with fried Serve with breacrumbs and Pirigueux sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Périgueux

Pike

PIKE. BROCHET Freshwater fish with a long body, large fiat flat BRocrrnr -- Freshwater jaw, mouth mouth stretching to the eyes and and armed armed with numerous strong strong teeth. The The back is slightly slightly fiattened flattened and dark green, the golden glints glints and belly white; fins are and the the fins white; the the sides sides have have golden reddish. Pike !ikes flowing or calm, likes fresh water, whether fast fiowing firm where where it devours fish. Its white, finn devours enormous enonnous quantities of fish. fiesh is greatly esteemed. flesh slightly toxic, esteemed. Pike milt and roe are slightly (February to April). In especially In especially during during the spawning spawning season (February pike are U.S.A. best-known species are common pike, U.S.A. the the best-known species of of pike muskel/unge mrc k e llunge and and ppickerels. ick e r e I s. Pike beurre blanc. Pike au BEURRE BLANC BLANc -- In au beurre BRocHET AU AU BEURRE blanc. BROCHET Anjou, as weil are numerous well as as in in the Nantes region, there" there. are recipes for preparingbeune preparing beurre blanc served with pike and Loire sewedwith shad. Here are sorne some local recipes for this dish: (q.v.) and First First recipe. recipe. Prepare Prepare aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.) and boil for 30 minutes. Put in the pike. As soon as boiling is is again again soon as the stove and established, established, draw the fish kettle to the edge of and ofthe poach for 25 to 30 minutes. leave to poach Boil down sorne chopped shallots, some vinegar. Add to it 2 or 3 3 chopped little freshly ground pepper pepper (one turn of a pinch of of salt and aa little the mill). Boil down by half half and remove remove from the heat. butter on a plate and incorporate Soften a piece of Soften incorporate it, little of butter beating vigorously by little, in the vinegar, beating vigorously with aa whisk. The sauce will become frothy without being Liquid and acquire beingliquid acquire the whiteness which is its feature. whiteness pike, arrange Drain the pike, arrange it on aa hot dish and pour the beurre parsley. blanc over over it, adding aa !ittle little freshly freshly chopped chopped parsley. (l? lb) pike in a little courtSecond recipe. Cook aa 750 750 g. (li bouillon bouillon made ofwhite of white wine, water, and the usual vegetables, seasoning and aromatics. When When the seasoning and the fish fish is is cooked, drain, arrange on aa hot dish and cover prepared in arrange with beurre blanc prepared cover with the following manner: put I1 chopped shallot and aa pinch of salt tablespoons (3 (3 tablesalt into aa saucepan, moisten with 2 tablespoons and 1I tablespoon vinegar, and boil down spoons) water and down by two-thirds. Remove the pan from the heat and add to it 150 to 200 g. Remove (about 6 (about 6 oz., it cup) fresh butter, stirring stirring ail all the time. Sprinkle with parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. Third kg (4! lb.) pike. Clean Third recipe. For For 88 persons allow aa 2 kgg,+ the fins it thoroughly, cut cut off the fins and and tait, tail, wash wash carefully in several waters, dry, sprinkle with fine salt and leave for for 15 15 minutes. Wash again, put into a fish kettle surrounded with fresh parsley, 2 sliced onions, 2 quartered shallots, 2 cloves fresh 10 chives, or the green of 1I leek, aa branch of fresh garlic, 88 to 10 offresh t, sorne thyme, 1 I small bay leaf, a few slices of carrot, some fine salt of carro and ground pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with sprigs of parsley, pour in enough white wine wine to cover enough cover and leave to marinate for 1 I hour 45 minutes minutes before before serving About 45 serving put the fish kettle on brisk heat. At the first sign of the surface surface beginning to 'shiver' or ripple gently, draw aside and keep boiling point. ripple keep near boiling put I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped into aa Separately, put chopped shallot shallot into

n.

697 Chicken h I'amiricaine (Phot. Nicolas')

PIKE saucepan, saucepan, add add a pinch offreshly of freshly ground ground pepper and I1 glass

Pike au au bleu. BROCHET AU BLEU snocHEr AU BLEU -- This This method isis mainly mainly used for small pike. Put the pike into aa court-bouillon prepared prepared as in as described described in the recipe for for Blue trout (see TROUT). TROUT). Drain the fish, garnish with fresh fish, arrange on a napkin and fresh and garnish parsley. Serve parsley. potatoes and Serve with with boiled boiled potatoes and melted melted butter butter or or one of the other sauces specially for poached specially recommended recommended for fish. Braised fl]]ets pike with Braised fillets of pike garnishes. with various various sauces and garnisbes. sauces and FILETS DE DE BROCHET fillets from from aa large large BRocrrET BRAISÉS BRArsfs -- Cut Cut the the fillets uncooked pike. Trirn Trim them and and remove bones and and skin. skin. Cut Cut the fiUets fillets into slices ofuniform of uniform size. Cook them in in aa very !ittle little concentrated concentrated fish stock. Drain, Drain, dry, arrange on serving dish, on aa serving dish, surround with pour over surround with the recommended, and the garnish recommended, and pour over aa sauce that goes goes with the garnish, adding to sauce to itit the the liquor liquor in in which the fish was cooked, greatly concentrated. Note. Ali Note. All the sauces recommended for sauces and garnishes recommended for brill (q.v.), sole (q.v.) and young young turbot (q.v.) are sole (q.v.) are suitable suitable for fillets ofpike. pike. of Pike cutlets Pike I. CÔTELETTES cutlets I. c6rsrrrrrs DE Pd&e DE BROCHET BRocHrr -- Using Using Pike forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) shape in small small buttered shape in forcemeat moulds having the form of of cutlets, and and poach. Arrange them serving dish, placing them on aa serving them either straight on the on the dish, dish, on heart-shaped crottons, croûtons, or on aa puffpastry foundation. heart-shaped foundation. Serve Serve the garnish and with the and sauce All the sauce indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Ail sauces sauces and garnishes recommended recommended for Poachedfillets of of sole sole SOLE) are are applicable to these these cutlets. (see SOLE) cutlets. Pike cutlets cutlets II. CÔTELETTES Pike Prepare aa c0rsrETTEs DE DE BROCHET BRocr{ET -- Prepare using aa salpicon (q.v.) of pike as croquette mixture, using salpicon (q.v.) cooked pike as of cooked the main ingredient, ingredient, with truffies truffles and added. and mushrooms added. These cutlets, which are are really aa variety These variety of of croquettes (q.v.), are deep-fried deep-fried like like croquettes. croquettes. are Pike mousse mousse -- See See FISH, Fish Fish mousse. mousse. Pike mousselines. uoussElrNEs MOUSSELINES DE DE BROCHET Pike mousselines. BRocr{ET -- These These are are of Mousseline Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) made of made FORCEMEATS) poached in in small small dariole dariole moulds. rnoulds. poached

best just any any commercial best quality white wine vinegar vinegar (not just vinegar vinegar with with a a rough rough taste). taste). Boil Boil down down gently gently by by threequarters. (2Ib.) best fresh butter, butter, and chop it into quarters. Take I1 kg. (21b.) small small pieces. pieces. Strain Strain the the vinegar. Put it into a strong copper pan with I1 tablespoon tablespoon shallots, shallots, very very finely finely chopped chopped and and lightly squeezed squeezed with of the the knife. knife. Add a few pieces pieces of of butter and put with the the flat Bat of over over aa high high flame. Bame. Stir Stir all ail the the time with a wooden spoon, spoon, and little little by by little little add add ]t of of the butter. butter. As soon as the light white mousse is formed, formed, remove from from the heat heat but do do not not stop mousse is stirring. stirring. Add Add the the rest of the butter, butter, stir until until it has has been been absorbed absorbed and and keep keep hot hot without allowing the sauce to boil. Season to taste. taste. The The sauce sauce should be be creamy. creamy. Season to To To serve, serve, drain drain the the pike pike as as soon soon as as itit is cooked, cooked, wipe wipe it on a put on on aa long, long, deep, very hot hot dish. Cut Cut the skin deftly c1oth, put cloth, under the along the the backbone, backbone, slip the the point point of the knife under along incision, incision, quickly quickly remove rem ove the the main main bone bone in one movement, holding the the head he ad with with the the left left hand. hand. Reshape the the fish, stir stir the holding beurre blanc blanc aa couple of of times times just just to make make sure the shallots beurre and serve. serve. are well weil mixed, mixed, spread spread over over the the pike pike and are Fourth recipe. recipe. Prepare Prepare a court-bouillon court-bouillon made made of water, water, I1 Fourth (j pint, pint, scant scant cup) vinegar, large onion, onion, I1 sliced sliced carrot, 22 dl. (+ large of parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and a bay leaf. leaf. salt, peppercorns, peppercorns, aa sprig sprig of salt, to cook cook for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Allow to Allow Put a a z-kg. 2-kg. (t+lb.) (4t-lb.) pike, pike, carefully scaled, scaled, cleaned c1eaned and Put washed, into into this this composition. composition. Keep on on a low low heat heat with with the washed, waterjust just simmering simmering for for 20 20 or or 25 25 minutes. minutes. water put 22 medium-sized rnedium-sized chopped chopped shallots, 33 tableMeanwhile, put Meanwhile, ground spoons (scant (scant ii cup) cup) vinegar, vinegar, some sorne salt and freshly ground spoons pepper into into aa flat-bottomed Bat-bottomed saucepan. (When (When adding salt, salt, pepper butter may may be be salted.) salted.) Add Add a piece of bear in in mind mind that that the the butter bear butter cut cut in in large large dice. dice. butter Put the the sauce sauce on on brisk brisk heat heat and and keep keep stirring stirring with with aa wooden Put spoon until until the the surface surface whitens whitens slightly. Remove Rernove the saucesaucespoon and continue continue to to stir. stir. pan from from the the fire fire and pan to serve, serve, drain drain the the fish, fish, dry dry on on aa cloth, cloth, put put on on aa When ready ready to When long hot hot dish dish (white (white china china for for preference), preference), cover coyer the the pike pike with with long beurre blanc, blanc, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and serve serve very very beurre Phare de de la la Loire.) Loire.) hot. (Recipe (Recipe from from Phare hot. Le beurre beurre blanc blanc de de ma ma tante. tante. Scale Scale aa pike pike and and Fifth recipe. recipe. Le Fifth clean itit out: out: one one slit slit under under the the gills, gills, otherwise otherwise no no cuts cuts at at all, ail, as as clean the pike pike must must remain rernain intact. intact. the Cook the the fish fish in in aa fish fish kettle kettle in in court-bouillon court-bouillon made made of ofwhite Cook white wine, water waterand and aa sprinkling sprinkling of ofvinegar, with aa sprig sprig of ofthyme, wine, vinegar, with thyme, bay leaf, leaf, parsley, parsley, carrot carrot cut cut in in very very thin thin slices, slices, onion, on ion, aa clove clove bay of garlic, black black peppercorns peppercorns and and coarse coarse salt. salt. ofgarlic, court-bouillon is ready ready put put itit on on lively lively heat. heat. When When When the the court-bouillonis When and when when itit begins begins to to diffuse diffuse aa delicious delicious you see see itit boiling boiling and you aroma, put put in in the the pike. pike. aroma, not take take longer longer than than 15 15 minutes. minutes. If If aa The cooking cooking must must not The cooked to to aa turn. turn. fork penetrates penetrates the the flesh flesh easily easily the the pike pike isis cooked fork Remove the the fish fish kettle kettle from from the the heat heat without without uncovering, uncovering, Remove thatthe the pike pike becomes becomes completely completely saturated saturated with with the the courtcourtsothat so bouillon. bouillon. The sauce sauce isis the the most most delicate delicate part part of of the the operation. operation. Put Put The into aa saucepan sauce pan I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped shallot, shallot, 1 1 pinch pinch into and some sorne butter butter - 250 (9 ground pepper, pepper, I1tablespoon tablespoon flour flour and ground - 250 g.g. (9 oz., generous generous cup) cup) will will be be sufficient sufficient for for a a l|.kg. It-kg. (3-lb.) (3-lb.) oz., pike. Add Add I1tablespoon tablespoonvinegar. vinegar. Put Put the the sauce sauceto to heat, heat, stirring stirring pike. from time time to to time time with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. When When the the butter butter from is achieved achieved by by adding adding a a ladleful ladleful of of melts, the the liaison liaison is melts, previously prepared prepared ccourt-bouillon. Leave to simmer. sirnmer. previously our t - b oui I I on. I-eav e to To serve, serve, take takethe the pike pike out out of ofthe the fish fish kettle kettle and and put put itit on on aa To Pour over over some sorne of of the the sauce, sauce, very very hot. hot. Mix Mix the the long dish. dish. Pour long or 44 tablespoons tablespoons well-beaten well-beaten fresh fresh cream, cream, remainder with with 33 or remainder andput putitit around aroundthe thefish. fish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and and and finely grated grated lemon lemon rind. rind. finely

Pike quenelles quenelles en en croustade croustade Pike

Pike quenelles. quenelles. eUENELLEs QUENELLES DE DE BRocr{Er BROCHET - Prepare Prepare 300 300 g. g. (l (IlI Pike - milk and oz.) bread bread panada, panada, using using 33 dl. dl. (i (1 pint, pint, li li cups) cups) milk 250 g. g. oz.) and 250 (9 oz.,4f oz., 41 cups) cups) soft soft breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or or aa flour flour panada panada using using 33 dl. dl. (9 (t pint, lflicups) hot water, water, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., tcup) butter and 150 g. cups) hot $pint, f cup) butter and 150 g. (5 oz.,lj oz., li cups) cups) flour Bour well well in in advance, advance, so so that that itit is is cold cold when wh en (5 needed for for use. use. needed Pound finely finely 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) pike pike flesh, flesh, carefully carefully boned boned and and Pound skinned, with with 22 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, aa pinch pinch of of pepper pepper and and aa little littJe skinned, grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated and leave leave on on aa plate. plate. Pound Pound the the panada panada Remove the the fish fish and Remove until itit is is reduced reduced to to aa completely cornpletely smooth smooth pulp, pulp, put put the the fish fish until mortar with with 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scant scant cup) cup) butter butter back into into the the mortar back and continue continue to to pound pound well. weil. Add, Add, one one at at aa time, time, 22 whole whole eggs eggs and and 44 yolks yolks and and rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve. and

698 698

PILAF PILAF Transfer with a Transfer the resulting resulting forcemeat into aa bowl, stir with wooden spoon to blend well. weil. To test the seasoning and the texture size of aa hazelnut of the forcemeat, take a piece the size texture of and and drop drop it into salted salted water to poach. poach. There are special all that special moulds for these quenelles and ail has has to to be be done done isis to to butter butter them them and fill with with forcemeat. forcemeat. When no such moulds are available, shape the quenelles quenelles in a large spoon and put put them them in in rows rows into into a buttered saut6 sauté pan. Or pipe spoon and through (l|.inch) and cut cut offin off in 3|.cm. 3t-cm. (1 t-inch) lengths. lengths. through a forcing forcing bag bag and Allow 50 g. g. (2 oz., I cup) forcemeat for each each quenelle. quenelle. Cover Coyer Allow 50 the teaspoons the quenelles quenelles with with salted boiling boiling water, water, allowing allowing l| 1t teaspoons salt (Ii pints, generous generous quart). quart). Cover, Coyer, and and poach on salt per per litre litre (lf the the edge edge of of the the burner burner for l0 10 minutes, keeping keeping the the water water just simmering. Make Make sure that the poaching poaching is complete complete just at the the right right time, time, so that the quenelles quenelles are ready when needed for or only only a few few minutes minutes before. before. for serving, serving, or Drain Drain them them on a cloth, arrange in a crown crown on a dish and serve serve with with the the sauce sauce and and garnish garnish indicated indicated in the recipe. The use use of an electric blender can greatly greatly facilitate this process. process. Plke à la crime. crème. euENELLEs QUENELLES or DE snocHEr BROCHET A À rl LA Pike quenelles quenelles A cnirrm CRÈME -- Pipe Pipe the the quenelles quenelles through through a forcing forcing bag bag with a plain nozzle, or mould mou Id them them with with aa large large spoon, spoon, and and drop drop them them into nozzle, or aa buttered 10 buttered saut6 sauté pan. pan. Poach Poach in in boiling salted salted water water l0 minutes, minutes, simmering simmering so gently gently that that the boiling is imperceptible. tible. Drain Drain the the quenelles quenelles and dry on a cloth. Place each on a cro0ton croûton fried fried in butter. butter. Pour Pour boiling boiling Cream Cream saace sauce over (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Pike Pike quenelles quenelles ià la la florentine. florentine. eUENELLES QUENELLES on DE rnocuur BROCHET A À L,l LA FLoRENTTNE Poach in salte saI te salted water, water, drain drain and and dry. FLORENTINE -- Poach Arrange of spinach leaves leaves Arrange in in an an oven-proof oven-proof dish on a bed bed of cooked butter and and seasoned with with salt, pepper pepper and grated cooked in in butter nutmeg. nutmeg. Coyer with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), sprinkle with Cover grated pour over over some sorne melted melted butter butter and and brown brown grated cheese, cheese, pour quickly quickly in in the the oven. oyen.

(see SAUCE) with diced truffles truffies bound with with Cream sauce (see SAUCE) and and Cream sauce with (see BUTTER, with Crayfish BUTTER, Compound Crayfish butter (see Compound finished off with butters). butters). pike on Put the pike with melted melted butter, butter, season season spit, brush with on aa spit, Put pepper, and with salt salt and and pepper, lively fire. fire. When When roast before with and roast before aa lively nearly cooked, cooked, baste with fresh cream. dish'and surround with little little barquettes, 6arquettes,some sorne Arrange on a dish and surround CRAYFISH) YFISH) filled with Crayfish tail ragoût ragofit àd la Nantua (see CRA (see TRUFFLE). and others with with Truffies Truffies àd la TRUFFLE). Add Add and la crème crime (see some fresh fresh cream to down, strain, strain, and sorne to the the pan juices, boil boil down, and pour pour over the fish. The same recipe can be used for salmon, salmon The salmon trout and and char.

*

PIKE-PERCH. SANDRE PIKE-PERCH. fish of the Percidae family s.ll.rDne -- Type of fish found found mostly mostly in in the the watercourses watercourses of of central central and and eastern eastern Europe. In In France itit isis found Doubs and found only only in in the the Doubs and the Saône. Sadne. Its flesh is white, flaky and All and very delicate in taste. Ali given for the cooking methods given for perch are are applicable to to the pike-perch. PILAF, PILAU PILAU or PILAW PILAF, PILAW-- Method ofpreparing of preparing rice which originated originated in the East. Rice prepared in this manner may be served without any garnish, but sorne some ingredients are usually added to it, such as shrimps, chicken livers, livers, lobster lobster or or various various other other shellfish, shellfish, lambs' or sheep's lambs'or sheep's sweetbreads, kidney, poultry, meat, etc. g. (4 (4 oz., Rice pilaf or pilaw. RIZ Heat 100 100 g. RIz PILAF rILAF -- Heat crrp) oz., t* cup) butter, without allowing butter, allowing to colour. colour. Add 500 g. (18 oz.) Patna rice. Stir over the heat until ail all the grains are are lightly cooked, broth or (lf pints, generous quart) quart)ppot-au-feu then add I1 litre (Ii ot-au-feubroth white stock. Season, white Season, cook in the oyen, oven, covered, covered, and without 18 to 20 20 minutes. minutes. disturbing, for l8 disturbing, When the rice is cooked, mix with it 50 (2 oz., g. (2 50 g. oz., * cup) butter cut into small small pieces. pieces. butter prLAF -- Soak the rice for Rice pilaf pilaf (Turkish (Turkish cookery). Rrz RIZ PILAF Rice hour or two two in strongly strongly salted water, drain, and cook for aa an hour an few minutes minutes in plenty plenty of of butter butter without colouring few colouring it. garni (q.v.'1and (q.v.) and pour in twice its volume of Add aa bouquet garni Cook, covered, covered, until untillittle form on the surface of liquid. Cook, little holes form the rice. the sometimes mixed mixed with cooked chick-peas, chick-peas, currants It is sometimes and pine pi ne kernels. kernels. and PILAF oE DE ForEs FOIES DE DE VOLAILLE rice Chicken liver lh'er pilaf. pilaf. rnar Chicken vorrlrrrs -- Put the rice buttered mould. Fill the middle with cbicken into a buttered chicken livers, and saut6ed sautéed in butter. butter. Finish Finish as described in the the recipe recipe sliced and sliced as described for Shrimp Shrimp pilaf pilaf (see SHRIMP). Turn out the pilaf on to aa Demi-glace sauce sauce dish and pour round it a few tablespoons Demi-glace (see SAUCE), adding adding to it the butter in which which the chicken (see livers were were cooked. livers PILAF DE DE FoIE FOIE GRAs GRAS - Arrange tbe rice on aa Foie gras pilaf. rtrar Foie - Arrange the dish in aa circle. Fill the the middle middle with slices slices of offoie dish saut6ed foie gras sautéed in butter. butter. Pour Pour over over them them the the pan panjuices diluted with Madeira Madeira juices diluted in and moistened moistened with with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). and Truffle slivers. slivers, saut6ed sautéed in butter. butter, can can be be added. added. Truffie Pilaf with witb mussels. mussels. prLAF PILAF DE DE MouLEs MOULES - Cook the mussels mussels as Pilaf as - Cook the indicated for Mussels Mussels d à la la pouletre poulette (see (see MUSSEL). Shell Shell indicated wi th aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of their their cooking cooking sauce. sauce. them. Moisten Moisten with them. Pile them them inside inside aa border border of of Rice Rice pilaf. pilaf Pour Pour aa few few tablespoons tablespoons Pile of Poulette Poulette sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round round the the border. of MuUon pilaf pilaf I. 1. eILAF PILAF DE DE MouroN MOUTON - There There are are various various ways ways Mutton of preparing preparing this this dish. dish. of in butter butter 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz.) oz.) lean lean coarsely coarsely diced diced mutton. mutton. Sauté in Saut6 and pepper. pepper. Drain Drain and and keep keep hot. hot. Season with with salt salt and Season Pour l| It dl. $(t pint, pint, 3~ cup) white white wine wine into into the the frying frying pan. pan. Pour Heat and and stir. stir. Add Add 22 dl. dl.",rp) (t pint, scant scant cup) Demi-glace sauce sauce (+ Heat cl'tp) Demi-glace (see SAUCE), SAUCE), or or thickened thickened veal veal stock, stock, or or brown brown stock made (see stock made of the the mutton, mutton, and and I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 from the the bones bones and and trimmings trirnmings of from

*

Pike quenelles quenelles dà lala lyonnaise lyonnaise Pike

i

Pike quenelles quenelles à la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. euENELLEs QUENELLES or DE snocrfir BROCHET A À rA, LA Pike L YONNAlSE -- These These are are made made of of Pike Pikeforcemeat forcemeat dà la la lyonnaise lyonnaise LYoNNAISE

(see (see FORCEMEATS), FORCEMEATS), moulded moulded with with aa spoon spoon

or shaped shaped by by or

hand and and poached poached in in salted salted water. water. hand Drain and and put put them them into into a a saut6 sauté pan pan containing containing thin thin Drain Espagnole sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). For For 12 12 quenelles quenelles of of medium medium Espagnole size add add 36 36 cooked cooked mushrooms, mushrooms, 36 36 stoned, stoned, blanched blanched olives, olives, size

oftruffies. truffles. and 24 thick thick slices slices of and24 Simmer for for l0 10 minutes minutes with with aa lid lid on on without without turning turning the the Simmer quenelles, which which should should swell. swell. quenelles, or in in aa flan flan crust crust baked baked blind. blind. Arrange in in aa pyramid pyramid or Arrange ofpike pike mousseline mousseline -- See See QUENELLES. QUENELLES. Quenellesof Quenelles Quenellesof ofpike pike princesse princesse -- See See QUENELLES. QUENELLES. Quenelles Roast pike pike ià lala mode mode de de Bugey. Bugey. snocrfir BROCHET n6fl RÔTI AÀ r,c, LA MoDE MODE DE DE Roast BUGEY - Stuffa pike with with aa forcemeat forcemeat made made of ofwhiting whiting mixed mixed BUcEy - Stuff a pike

699 699

PILCHARD PILCHARD firm, melting flesh, flesh, of yellowcolom, ofaac1ear clearyellow contains tains an finn, an colour, con juiceininwhich abundance of fragrant fragrant juice which the flavours of apple, abundance theflavours ofapple, peachseem strawberry and and peach once. seemto tomingle mingleail allatatonce. strawberry Pineapple isiseaten eaten as asitit is, is,asasaadessert, dessert,or for Pineapple orisisused usedfor preparing nrl'nllnrl 0' V;è1nCJU~; variousSV\I't:t:l sweetdishes, dishes, ices, ices,sherbets,jams, sherbets, jams,cakes cakesand and refreshing drinks. retreshmlg drinks. AA kind kindof wine isismade fromfermented ofwine madefrom fermented pineapple juice. When pleasant produces aavery plrleapplleJlllwe. Whendistilled, distilled, this thisproduces very pleasant liqueur. When they are of goodquality, quality, tinned pineapples,prepretinned pineapples, served in syrup, can replace fresh donot freshones, butthey theydo notequal equal ones,but them in fragrance and delicacy offlavour. offlavour. Duck witr pineapple (Chinese cookery). cANARD A L'ANANAS L'ANANAs -- Remove Remove the bones from from aa small duck. Cut the flesh into flesh into strips garlic and strips and and sauté saut6 these fatalong along with with garlic and thesein infat juice of chopped chopped onions. onions. Blend Blend aalittle little flour flour with with the thejuice tinof of ofaatin pineapple and pour into pineapple pan. To and pour the pan. To this into the thisadd add1I tablespoon tablespoon pur6e, salt tomato tomato purée, pepper, aa pinch pinch of saltand and pepper, ofsugar. sugar. Simmer Simmer for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Cut pineapple slices Cut the the pineapple slices into into small small pieces. Add Add them them to tothe the duck duck along along with with aa handful handful of of French beans. beans. Simmer Simmerfor for1515 minutes. minutes. Just Just before before serving serving add add 1I tablespoon soyasauce. sauce. tablespoonsoya PillPllnnllp Pineapple ài la la bavaroise. bavaroise. ANANAS ANANAs ÀALA rl BAVAROISE savARolsr - - Hollow Hollow out prepare aa large pineapple as out and prepare large pineapple described ininthe recipe as described the recipe for (see ICE pineapple (see for lced lced pineapple ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). Fili Fill itit with pineapple-flavoured Bavarian (q.v.) with aa pineapple-flavoured Bavarinn cream cream(q.v.) with with grated pineapple, steeped steeped in in kirsch, kirsch, added added to toit. it. PirlPSlnnllp Pineapple B:olllrdaloue. Bourdaloue. ANANAS ANANAs BOURDALOUE Proceed as as BoURDALoUE - - Proceed described in (see in the recipe for for Apricots the recipe Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see APRICOTS), APRICOTS), replacing replacing the the halved halved apricots apricots by by half halfslices slicesof of pineapple. pineapple. Dust Dust with with crushed crushed macaroons, sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter macaroons, sprinkle and glaze in andg)aze in the the oyen. oven. Pineapple Pineapple compote. conpote. COMPOTE coMporE D'ANANAS D'ANANAs -- Peel Peel aaripe, ripe, sound sound pineapple. pineapple. Remove penetrate aa!iule Remove the which penetrate eyes, which little into into the the eyes, the flesh flesh beneath beneath the rind. the rind. Divide Divide the pineapple in halves lengthways, remove the the pineap,ple hard hard core core and and cut cut each half into regular slices. Cook in in aa light syrup, plain or syrup, plain or flavoured flavoured with fruit dish, with vanilla. Arrange Arrange in inaafruit and and sprinkle sprinkle with with its its syrup syrup laced laced with with kirsch kirsch or or rum. rum. Serve Serve cold. cold. The le, according pineapple can The pineapple can also also be be cooked cooked who whole, according to to various various recipes. recipes. Remove Remove the the core core with with the the aid aid of special of aa special corer corer and and cut into slices. cut into slices. PiFIPSlnnllp Pineapple Condé. Cond6. ANANAS ANANAS CONDÉ Arrange half half slices coNo6 -- Arrange slices of of pineapple cooked fresh plrleapplle cooked in in syrup, syrup, or in aa or tinned tinned pineapple, in shallow shallow oven-proof dish, three-quarters oven-proof dish, three-quarters filled with Dessert rrce (see RICE). RICE). with halved Decorate with halved glacé glac6 cherries and lozenges lozenges of of cherries and angelica. angelica. Heat Heat in in aa moderate moderate oyen (see oven and and serve serve with with Apricot Apricot sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) laced poured over laced with with kirsch, kirsch, either either poured over or or served served separately. separately. Altematively, Alternatively, arrange arrange the the half half sUces slices on border of on aa border of dessert dessert rice prepared as rice prepared as described in the the recipe for Apricots Apricots condé described in recipe for cond6 (see APRICOT). (SeeAPRICOT). PiT.",,,,,,,II .. fritters. Pineapple fritters. BEIGNETS BBTGNETS D'ANANAS D'ANANAS -- Cut Cut aa fresh fresh or or pineapple into tinned plrleapple into slices. slices. Dust Dust with with sugar, sugar, sprinkle sprinkle with with kirsch kirsch or or rum, rum, and and leave leave to to steep steep for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Proceed pes for fruit fritters (see Proceed as (see as described described in in reci recipes for Fresh Freshfruitfritters FRTTTERS). Pineapple à la Carême. BEIGNETS D'ANANAS À Pineapple fritters i la CarGme. BETcNETs n'Al{^qlAs A LA r.A, CARÊME crlRtlr'c -- SUce pineapple and Slice the the pineapple leave to and leave to steep steep as as described described in in the the preceding recipe. recipe. Dry the the slices, coat coat them them with with aa thin layer of of very very thick thick thin layer apricotjam apricot jam and pairs. Dip and stick stick them them together together in in pairs. Dip into into aa Iight light batter (see BATTERS batter (see BATTERS FOR FOR FRYING) FRYING) and and fry in deep fat. fat. Pilu'annllp ice Pfurcapple ice cream. cream. GLACE cLAcE À A L'ANANAS r'.llq.nNls -- Add to to $ litre litre (scant pint, 2* prepared as 2t cups) cups) syrup, syrup, prepared as described described for for fruit fruit

tablespoons, scantfcup) tomato tomato pur6e. Bring to the boil. Put Put the boil. tablespoons, the mutton mutton into into this sauce. Heat but do not boil. the Butter aa deep dish or basin and line it with Rice pilaf.Put Butter Put aside most most of of the mutton mutton sauce pour the sauce and and pour the meat, meat, with aa aside little of of the the sauce, sauce, into into the the dish. dish. Coyer Cover with with rice. rice. Unmould Unmould Hule platter. Pour onto aa platter. Pour the the remaining sauce sauce around around the the edge. onto Mutton prepared as as indicated indicated above can can also also be served in inaa Mutton border of of pilaf rice. This This isis made by filling filling aa buttered made by buttered turban turban border (ring) mould with pressing down with rice, rice, pressing down weil well before turning out. out. before turning (ring) Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the dish. dish. Pour Another method method isis to to bone bone the the mutton mutton and and cut cut itit into into Another pieces. Braise Braise in in aa very little little tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured stock. stock.Serve Serve in in pieces. border of of rice rice pilaf as indicated indicated above. above. aa border prLAF DE (Turkish cookery). Mutton pilaf II (Turkish cookery). PILAF DE MOUTON MouroN Mutton (q.v.) of Make aa ragoût ragofrt (q.v.) of mutton, mutton, flavoming flavouring itit strongly strongly with with Make tomatoes and (or, ifpreferred, ginger (or, and spicing with aa little little ginger spicing with if preferred, with with tomatoes saffron) and and aa touch touch of ofgarlic. satTron) garlic. When the the mutton mutton isis almost almost cooked, cooked, drain drain it. it. Put Put itit inin When another saucepan saucepan with peeled sweet with peeled peppers, coarsely sweet peppers, another coarsely diced. diced. rice. Moisten Moisten with with the the strained strained cooking Add parboiled rice. cooking stock. stock. Finish cooking cooking ail all together. together. Serve in aa bowl Serve in bowl or Finish or deep deep round round dish. Shtip's (lamb's) kidney pilaf. PILAF eruu DE DE ROGNONS RocNoNs DE DE Qamb's) kidney MouroN - This This isis made (See made with kidneys MOUTON kidneys cut cut in in slices. slices. (See OFFAL br V VARIETy MEATS, Calfs OFF AL 'or ARIETY MEATS, pilaf.) Calfs liver liver with with pilaf.) prLAF DE pilaf. PILAF (U.S. DE VEAU VEAU -- Prepare Prepare with Veal pilaf. .S. sirloin) with fillet fillet (U sirloin) of veal cut cut into small small square ofveal square pieces and and sautéed in butter, butter, in sauteed in in way as as Mutton pilaf. the same way

-

-

PILCHARD -- Small Small fish fish of PILCHARD of the the Clupeidae family, sold Clupeidae family, sold mainly mainly tinned (canned) in spiced oillike oil like sardines. sardines. PILOT-FISH. FANFRE PILOT-F1SH. rlr.nnn - Fish somewhat somewhat similar similar to to mackerel. mackerel. pilot-fish isis quite It is cooked in the same way. way. The The pilot-fish quite tasty, tasty, but but indigestible.

PIMENTO-- See PEPPER. PIMENTO PINCER -- Culinary term term which describes describes the the operation operation of of browning "''''",\ll'n'"", certain substances in in fat. fat. It is is applicable applicable mainly to to meat and vegetables before adding stock stock or or any liquid any other other liquid to them. Pincer also also applies applies to to the the operation operation of pinching up of pinching up the the pies, tarts, etc. edges of ofpies,

prNcfs - The term PIN CH. PINCÉE PINCH. term 'pinch' frequently occurs in in this this book and corresponds corresponds to about 55 g. (l (1 scant teaspoon) teaspoon) in the the case of ofsalt teaspoon) in the case salt and about 22 g. (t the case case ofpepper of pepper or or $teaspoon)

mixed spices. The tenn, however, is The term, is used used only quick only in in application application to to quick seasoning. Seasoning for dishes requiring requiring prolonged cooking cooking expressed in more precise quantities. must be expressed

PINEAPPLE. ANANAS -- Herbaceous PINEAPPLE.lN,l,wls Herbaceous hardy perennial plant, rather similar similar to aloes in the structure of rather of its leaves, although they are less thick than those of of aloes. The flowers, flowers, bluish in colom, produce an ovoid globular fruit, yellowish in colour, in colour colour wh en ripe. when is a a native native of of America. America. It The pineapple is It has, has, however, however, naturalised a'dmirably admirably in in Asia Asia and and Africa, naturalised Africa, where where it is is generally cultivated. cultivated. generally contains a a strong proportion proportion of Pineapple contains of sugar suga^r (more th an 15 15 per per cent), cent), citric and malic malic acids and aa ferment than acids and ferment called called bromeline very very close close to to pepsin pepsin and and papain (vegetable (ve:get.able pepsin). bromeline fennent which which can can be be dissolved dissolved in in proteinic nrC\fpln,1' sul::>stancxs ItIt isis aa ferment substances and which which acts acts very energetically on on albumin contained and contained in in in meat meat and in in milk, which it it first first curdles. white, in egg white, curdles. fennent appears appears to to be be destroyed destroyed by by heating heating and and it it is is This ferment not present present in in sterilised, sterilised, tinned tinned pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple Pineapple con tains not contains large quantity quantity of ofVitamins A and and B. B. aa large Vitamins A When itit is is quite quite ripe ripe this this fruit fruit has has aa very very pleasant pleasant smell. smel!. Its Its When

it

700 700

PINION

t

Decorate with with cherries and angelica angelica and and finish finish off off as as Decorate cherries and described in that recipe. described Pineapple tart à i la royale. CROÛTE cno0rs À A L'ANANAS I'ANANAs À A LA Pineapple rl ROYALE noyere -- Arrange aa border of half slices slices of pineapple and and slices slices of pasty cream savarin (q.v.). Fill the middle with thick French pastry mixed with a grated pineapple (see CREAMS) mixed pineapple flavoured with kirsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with cru Decorate with kirsch. shed macaroons. crushed macaroons. Decorate crystallised fruit. Pineapple tourte Pineapple TOURTE, Apricot tourte -- See TOURTE, Apricot tourte. ponc À with pineapple. PORC i, L'ANANAS Pork witb L'ANANAs -- Brown sorne some diced smoked bacon in a frying smoked frying pan, then add a piece ofpork of pork chine. Brown. Remove Brown. Remove the meat and and place in aa casserole. Sprinkle pineapple juice. Bake with thyme, bay leaf, cloyes and 11 cup pineapple cloves and hours in a moderate for 2 hours moderate oyen, oven, basting basting frequently. Serve with Rice à d la créole crdole (see RICE).

ices, I fresh shredded shredded or grated grated pineapple. pineapple. Leave to steep for 2 hours. Pass this mixture through a sieve and flavour it with

kirsch. gauge and syrup gauge and rectify until until it kirsch. Measure it it with aa syrup

registers 18 0 to 20'. 20 0 • registers from l8'to Chill in aafreezer Serve in CREAMS AND ICES). Serve freezer (see (see ICE ICE CREAMS wine wine glasses, goblets goblets or sundae glasses. Iced Iced pineapplepineapple - See ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES.

Pineapple cr,lc6rs AÀ coupEs GLACÉFS Pineapple with witb vanilla vanilla ice ice cream. cream. COUPFS - Fill dessert glasses with vanilla ice cream and diced pineapple pineapple steeped steeped in kirsch. cream and Decorate sprinkle with Decorate with pineapple pineapple cut in lozenges, and sprinkle kirsch. Pineapple l'impératrice. .lN^lxls ANANAS i, À r'nrrpfultntce L'IMPÉRATRICE - ProPineapple ià I'imp6ratrice. ceed as described d l'impératrice l'impiratrice (see Apricots à described in the recipe recipe for Apricots APRICOT), APRICOT), replacing the latter by half slices of pineapple cooked in syrup. Or prepare the pineapple as described described for Icedpineapple Iced pineapple (see (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES). Fill RICE), and diced l'impératrice (see (see RICE), Fill the the rind rind with with Rice dà I'impiratrice pineapple pineapple steeped steeped in kirsch. Leave and serve like iced Leave to set in a cold place, or on ice, and pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple manqn6. MANQUÉ A À L'ANlNls L'ANANAS - Add Add diced manqué. ralNeuf crystallised pineapple to a manqui manqué (q.v.) mixture. Bake and turn turn out. Ice lce with Fondant Fondant icing (see ICING) flavoured with pineapple. top with with pieces pieces of of crystallised pineapple. Decorate Decorate the the top pineapple. pineapple. Pineapple CR~PES FOURRÉES, Pineapple pancakes pancakes (crGpes). (crêpes). cntpns rouRnfrs, pANNEeUETs PANNEQUETS A À l'ANlNas L'ANANAS - Prepare Prepare pannequets (q.v.). (q.v.). Coat jam, with pineapple them them with thick apricot apricotjam, pineapple cooked in syrup and cut into into minute minute dice dice added to it. Roll up up the pancakes. pancakes. Glaze in the oven Apricot oyen as as described described in the the recipe recipe for for Apricot panne que t s (see pannequets (see PANNEQUETS). PANNEQUETS). Or Or coat coat the the pancakes pancakes with with French French pasty pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREA MS) with a grated pineapple added to it and finish as as indicated above. above. indicated Pineapple ià la pi6montaise. piémontaise. ,lNlNls ANANAS A À rl LA prfuoxrnsn PIÉMONTAlSE Proceed Proceed as as described in in the the recipe recipe for Pineapple Condd, Condé, for Pineapple replacing replacing dessert rice rice by by a layer of of polenta polenta (q.v.) bound bound with egg egg and and flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. Or Or arrange arrange the the half half slices slices of of pineapple, pinea pple, cooked cooked in syrup, syru p, on crescent-shaped crescent-shaped polenta polenta croquettes. croquettes. Pineapple ANANAS AU RJz RIZ - Proceed as described described Pineapple with witb rice. rice. ANANAs for Apricots Apricots with rice (see APRICOT), APRICOT), replacing the halved apricots half slices slices of of pineapple pineapple in syrup. syrup. apricots by by half Pineapple ANANAS MERTNGUE MERINGUE AU AU Rrz RIZ Pineapple with witb rice rice and and meringue. meringue. ANANAS Proceed as as described described in the the recipe recipe for Apricots Apricots with rice and and -- Proceed meringue (see APRICOT) APRICOT) using slices slices of of pineapple poached poached meringue in in vanilla-fl vanilla-flavoured avoured syrup. Pineapple sauce sauce -- See See SAUCE. SA U CE. Pineapple SAVARIN A À L'eNaNls L'ANANAS -- Prepare Prepare a savarin savarin Pineapple savarin. savarin. SAvARIN Pineapple (q.v.). (q.v.). Saturate Saturate it with with syrup and and flavour flavour with kirsch kirsch or or rum. of pineapple Arrange itit in a dish and garnish garnish with half half slices slices of Arrange fill the the middle with with diced diced pineapple cooked in syrup, syrup, or flll cooked hot or or cold. cooked in in syrup. Serve Serve hot cooked ANANAS EN EN suRpRrsE SURPRISE - Scoop out and Pineapple surprise. surprise. ANANAS Pineapple prepare lced prepare aa large large pineapple pineapple as described described in the recipe for lced pineapple pineapple (see (see ICE CREAMS CREA MS AND AND ICES). (q.v.) composed composed of of the scooped-out Fill itit with with amacidoine a macédoine (q.v.) Fill pineapple pineapple pulp pulp cut cut in thin thin slices, slices, fresh fresh blanched blanched almonds and aU kinds kinds of fruit, previously previously steeped in kirsch and and castor all sugar. sugar. Put the the pineapple pineapple upright upright in a dish filled filled with with crushed cru shed ice Put to chill chill for for 22 hours hours before before serving. serving. and leave leave to and lced pineapple. pineapple. Serve like like lced Serve Pineapple tart. tart. cno0rr CROÛTE iÀ r'lNlNAs L'ANANAS -- Proceed Proceed as as described described Pineapple Fruit crofites croûtes (see (see CROOTES) CROÛTES) using, using, instead instead in the the recipe recipe for for Fruit in of mixed mixed fruit, fruit, only only pineapple pineapple cut cut in half half slices slices for for the the border border of and in in large large dice dice for for the the interior. interior. and L'ANANAs L'ANANAS A À ul LA vr,mrln VANILLE -

PINfE -- French word for first quality quality dried cod. PINÉE prcNoN -- Kernels of pine cones, which in PINE SEED (Nut). PIGNON PINE taste tas te resemble almonds almonds and have have various uses in cookery cookerv and

confectionery confectionery.. This nut is known known as pignoli in cookery. as pignoli PINION or TRY WING. PINION POULTRY WING. or POUL

AILERON ATLERoN -- The The terminal of a bird's bird's wing, also segment of also called wing tip. The pinions of The giblets, can of large birds, which are classed classed as giblets, be made into a great number of dishes (see GIBLETS). of dishes The 'pinion' also means The word word'pinion' means the bones which support support the fin rays offish. The recipes follow are The pinions of recipes which which follow are intended intended for for pinions turkeys or turkey-poults, but turkeys or turkey-poults, but they they are are also also suitable suitable for preparing of other big preparing pinions of big poultry. l'anglaise. ATLERoNS AlLERONS DE DINDONNEAU Pinions of turkey ài I'anglaise. DTNDoNNrAU À A L.ANGLAISE -- See GIBLETS, Turkey giblets àd l'anglaise. L.ANGLATSE Turkey giblets I'anglaise. Pinions of bourgeoise. AILERONS Pinions of turkey ià la bourgeoise. ATLERoNS DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU À r.r LA souncnorsE BOURGEOISE -- See IBLETS, Turkey giblets àd la A GIBLETS, Turkey giblets See G bourgeoise. Turkey pinion pinion broth. broth. For-AU-FBU POT-AU-FEU AUX Turkey Attx AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DINDONNEAU - This This is is prepared like broth with DINDoNNEAU like ordinary broth stuffed turkey turkey pinions. (See (See SOUPS stuffed SOUPS AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Pot-aufeu.) feu.) Pinions of AlLERONS DE Pinions of turkey turkey cbasseur. chasseur. ATLERoNS DINDoNNEAU DE DINDONNEAU CHASSEUR - Cut the pinions pinions in 2 pieces. pieces. Season with salt and cHASSEUR pepper, pepper, fry them them in butter, butter, and finish cooking cooking as as described described in chasseur (see CHICKEN). the recipe for Sautéed Sautied chicken chasseur Consommé with with pinions pinions 1. AlLERONS -Consomm6 I. CONSOMMÉ coNsourrd AUX lux ATLERoNS Prepare aa chicken chicken consommé Prepare consomm6 (see SOUPS, SOUPS , Clear soups). Bone Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see and stuff stuff the the pinions pinions with and with aa Quenelle FORCEMEATS). Put Put the the pinions into FORCEMEATS). into the the consommé consomm6 to consommé through a muslin c10th cook. Pass the consomm6 cloth and serve with trimmed trimmed pinions. is sometimes sometimes added to this Rice cooked cooked in in consomm6 consommé is Rice this soup. AUX AILERoNS AILERONS -Consommé with witb pinions II. II. CONSOMMÉ cousolryn AUx Consomm6 Prepare meat stock. Trim Trim 6 pinions, put in a muslin bag and Prepare cook in the stock. Strain the stock stock and serve with with the pinions, removing all ail the little bones which have come loose during removing cooking. cooking. dried in cut into small pieces and Serve with bread cut and dried in the Carrots and leeks, cooked in stock and cut into pieces pieces oyen. Carrots oven. sometimes added to this soup. are sometimes Fricassée of turkey pinions. pinions. ATLERoNs AlLERONS DE DE DINDONNEA Fricassee DTNDoNNEAUU EN Cook the the pinions, pinions, stuffed stuffed as in (1) FRICASSÉE - Cook (I) rmc.lssfn as described described in ab ove, until two-thirds done, in chicken or veal stock. Put above, them into into aa saute sauté pan with with small sm ail onions onions and mushrooms mushrooms halfthem veal stock. Moisten with Velouté sauce cooked in chicken or veal Velouti sauce SAUCE) made made from from the stock stock in which the pinions pinions were (see SAUCE) Finish cooking cooking together, simmering simmering gently. Bind the cooked. Finish sauce with with egg egg yolks yolks and cream, cream, as as described described in the recipe for sauce Fricassée of of chicken chicken dà la berrichonne berrichonne (see (see FRICASSEE). FRICASSÉE). FricassCe

701 701

PINOT PINOT Turkey pinions ài la la niçoise. nigoise. AlLERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAu Ài LA r.l pinions with Season the the pinions with salt salt and and papper. Fry Fry briskly briskly - ;:')Ieas;on in aa mixture mixture of golden. Into of butter butter and Remove when golden. and oil. oil. Remove Into the the in pan put (for 66 pinions) same pan put (for pinions) 50 (2 OZ., 50 g.g. (2 cup) chopped oz., tI cup) chopped same onion. Fry Fry lightly, peeled, seeded, lightly, add add 33 peeled, seeded, chopped chopped tomatoes, tomatoes, onion. grated garlic. Cook and aa little little grated put the Cook for for 55 minutes, minutes, put the pinions and pan, add aa bouquet in the the pan, garni (q.v.), moisten bouquet garni(q.v.), moisten with li l+ dl. dl. back in pint, jcup) dry white white wine, wine, season, season, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, cover, cover, (!$ pint, 3 c,rp) dry and simmer simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add24 black olives olives and and the the same same and 24 black number of of small small button button mushrooms. mushrooms. Finish Finish cooking, simsimnurober gently for mering gently for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped tartarmering

SAUCE), depending depending on on the the nature nature of of the the dish. dish.Glaze Glaze the SAUCE), the pinions with with ajelly_ a jelly. Garnish Garnish with with chopped jelly. pinions Pinions in in chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce saucecan can be be decorated with with truffies, Pinions truffies, tongue àd l'écarlate, l'Ccarlate, hard-boiled hard-boiled egg eggwhite, white, etc., etc., croûtons crofitons of tongue of bread spread with glass dish with butter. butter. Place Place them them ininaaglass dish and bread cover andcover

NtgoIsE -NH;UI;SI::

with jelly. pinions Stufied turkey turkey pi with chipolata nions with chipolata sausages. sausages. AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DE DINDoNNEAU FARCIS giblets FARcrs CHlPOLATA DINDONNEAU like Turkey Turkey giblets cHrpoLATA -- Prepare like (see GIBLETS). with chipolata sausages (see with

Stufied turkey plnions lii lala fermière. fermiire. AILERONS ATLERoNs DE DE

i, LA pinions with the pinions r,,1,FERMIÈRE rrrudrr -- Stuff Stuffthe with aa finely pounded pounded forcemeat finely of chopped chopped onions forcemeat of onions cooked cooked inin butter until until transparent, parsley. Braise butter transparent, mixed mixed with Braise with chopped chopped parsley. pinions until the pinions until half half done the done and and put inin an an earthenware earthenware casserole. Cover Cover them with garnish àd laIa fermiire (carrots, casserole. them with turnips, celery celery and turnips, and onions, onions, sliced and and lightly fried in butter). Remove fat pan juices, boil fat from from the Remove the panjuices, pour boil down, down, strain, strain, and and pour over the over the ingredients ingredients in in the the casserole. casserole. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in the the oven with with aa !id oven lid on. on. Shfred turkey pinions fried Stuffed turkey pinions fried inin batter. ATLERoNS DE batter. AILERONS DE DINDoNNEAU FARCIS DINDONNEAU EN FRITOT -- Stuff and cook FARcrsENrnrror pinions as cook the the pinions Stuffand as described ove. Strain described ab Strain the the stock stock in above. in which which they they were were cooked cooked and and leave leave them them to to cool cool in in il. it. Drain Drain and and marinate marinate for for 30 minutes in 30 minutes in oil, oil, lemon juice, salt, salt, pepper and pepper (see and chopped parsley. Dip Dip them light batter (see them in in aa Iight BA TTERS FOR FRYING) and BATTERS and deep-dry in sizzling sizzling fat. fat. deep-dry in Drain, Drain, dry, dry, season season with with dry dry fine fine salt. fried salt. Garnish Garnish with with fried parsley and quarters of parsley and quarters of lemon. lemon. Serve Serve with with tomato tomato or or other other sauce. sauce. Stuffed pinions lii la Stuffd turkey p6rigourdine. AILERONS turkey piniolls la périgourdine. ATLERoNS DE DE pfuicouRDrNE -- Stuff DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU FARCIS pinions FARcrs ÀA LA L,c, PÉRIGOURDINE Stuff the the pinions with with foie and diced diced truffies, truffies, to to which which aa !ittle little Pork Pork foie gras and forcemeat be added. added. Season Season with with can be forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) can salt, pepper and salt, pepper spices, and and sprinkle with and spices, with brandy. brandy. Wrap Wrap in in rashers rashers of of bacon. bacon. Braise Braise in in stock stock laced laced with with Madeira. When ove, unwrap, put When three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, rem remove, unwrap, put in 2 cups) quartered in an (7 OZ., an earthenware earthenware dish quartered dish with with 200 200 g. (7 o2.,2 truffies for for 66 pinions. Skim Skim the the fat off the stock, boil boil down, down, off the strain, pour the strain, and pinions. Cook and pour the stock stock over over the the pinions. Cook in the oven oven in the for for 15 15 minutes. Stuffed pinions Sainte-Menehould. Stufied turkey turkey pinions Sainte-Menehould. AlLERONS ATLERoNS DE DE DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU SAINTE-MENEHOULD SATNTE-MENEHoULD -- Stuff as dedethe pinions as Stuff the scribed above above and and braise in in white white wine wine or in clear veal veal stock. or in stock. Drain Drain and cool press. cool under under aa press. Brush with butter, grated breadcrumbs, butter, dip dip in in toasted toasted or breadcrumbs, or grated grill on sprinkle with melted butter and and grill on aa low low heat heat until until both both sides are golden. Serve Serve either with with Diable sauce sauce or with Sainte-Menehould or with Sainte-Menehould sauce (see SAUCE) pinions SAUCE) made from from the stock in which which the the pinions stock in were braised. Grilled pinions Sainte-Menehould Grilled pinions Sainte-Menehould can can be be served served with with various vel~et:ables, vegetables, cooked cooked in water and dressed with with butter, butter, and dressed or with pur6es ofvegetables. of vegetables. Serve Serve with mustard. pinions il.i la Sfifid turkey turkey pinions Soubise. AILERONS ATLERoNS DE DE la Soubise. DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU FARCIS FARcrs À A LA rA SOUBISE sousrsn -- Stuff Stuff and and braise braise the the pinions as as described above. glaze. Arrange above. Drain and Arrange on and glaze. on aa dish and sprinkle with the boiled-down panjuices, pan juices. Serve with Serve with Onion soubise (see (see PURÉE). PUREE). DINDoNNEAU FARCIS FARcrs DINDONNEAU

ragon.

pinions Turkey pi en tortue. tortue. AILERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU EN EN nions en Bone 12 12 turkey turkey pinions in in such such aa way way as as to to shape shape - Bone them into into pockets. Stuff Stuff with with aa Quenelle them Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). Sew Sew up up the the opening. Fry Fry thinly thinly sliced carrots and and onions in bacon bacon fat pinions. Season onions in fat and add the Season the pinions. carrots with salt salt and (q.v.), and aa \ittle little allspice. garni (q.v.), allspice. Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni with sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and put the the pan on on brisk brisk heat. heat. Brown both sides of of the pinions lightly. Moisten with with 1I glass Madeira. Leave to to boil boil down completely. completely. Add Add aa few few tableMadeira. ToRTUE TORTUE

spoons thickened brown veal veal stock stock and in aa slow slow oven, and braise in oven, uncovered. uncovered. Remove the pinions with aa perforated spoon, and put into into Remove garnish (see (see GARNISHES). Add Tortue garnish Add another pan with Tortue juices, boil (see SAUCE) to Tortue sauce sauce (see pan juices, to the the braising braising pan boil Tortue for down, strain, and pour over the pinions. Leave to simmer simmer for a few minutes. Arrange the pinions on on aa serving dish dish with with the the them. Add supplementary garnish: gherkins garnish around them. cut in in small small uniform uniform pieces, fried yolks of egg, dressed cut crayfish, heart-shaped heart-shaped crofitons fried crayfish, fried in in butter. Pour the the over the pinions. sauce over Stufied turkey turkey pinions in Stuffed in aspic ietly. AlLERONS ATLERoNs DE DE DINDoNNBAU FARCIS pinions with DINDONNEAU FARcrs A LA rl GELÉE cnrfn -- Stuff the pinions with aa (see FORCEMEATS), addfinely pounded Pork forcemeat forcemeat (see adddiced truffies or aa forcemeat pork, foie ing diced forcemeat made made of minced pork, of minced foie gras and truffies. trufres. Wrap each pinion in aa piece of muslin and and s@ure with with string. Cook in in aa stock secure stock made from from Madeiraflavoured meat jelly or aa rich broth flavoured with Madeira. Drain, Drain, cook, and put in a dish. Clarify Clarify the liquidjelly liquidjelly in which they were cooked and pour over the pinions. (See JELL Y, JELLY, jelly stock.) Meat Meatjelly Stufid braised pinions of turkey. AILERONS Stuffed ATLERoNs DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU FARcIs, sRArsfs -- Singe and FARCIS, BRAlSÉS pinions. Bone and pluck 66 turkey pinions. them carefully, so them carefully, not to damage the so as as not the skin. skin. Stuff them with forcemeat: with forcemeat: finely finely pounded pork forcemeat, chicken forcemeat, quenelle forcemeat, or forcemeat, quenelle or any any other other (see FORCEMEATS FORCEMEATS or STUFFINGS). STUFFINGS). Wrap Wrap each one in a thin rasher (slice) of of bacon bacon and secure secure with thread. rasher sorne butter in aa sauté Melt some saut6 pan, and and in in it brown bacon rinds, 50 g. (2 oz., OZ., * cup) onion onion and 50 g. (2 OZ., carrot, oz., t* cup) carrot, cut in in thin thin slices. slices. Arrange the the pinions on these. Add a bouquet cut Addabouquet garni (q.v .), and season season with salt and pepper. Simmer Simmer under under a lid on on top top of of the the stove st ove for l5 15 minutes. minutes. dl. (| (1 pint, scant cup) Moisten with 2 dl. cup) dry dry white white wine wine or Madeira, according according to to recipe, recipe, boil boil down, and add 4 Madeira, (f; pint, 4 dl. (i brown chicken or veal stock. Bring scant 22 cups) brown Bring to the boil. Cook in the oven, oven, covered, covered, for for 40 40 minutes. minutes, Remove the Cook pinions, pinions, unwrap unwrap them and glaze in aa hot oven. oven, Arrange Arrange them glazein on a dish and pour over them the pan juices in which which they braised, with the fat fat skimmed off, boiled down were braised, off, boiled down and strained. strained. The pinions can be be completed with with various garnishes. The pi nions in chaud-froid sauce. AILERONS ShfiGd turkey pinions ATLERoNS DE DE DINDONNEAU FARcrs FARCIS EN EN cHAUD-FRoID CHAUD-FROm - Cook Cook the the stuffed DINDoNNEAU in liquid liquid aspic aspic jelly jelly laced laced with Madeira. Madeira. Leave to cool pinions in the stock. stock, Drain Drain and and dry dry well. weil. in the Cover with with white white or or brown brown Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see Cover (see

PINOT PINOT -- Variety grapes of Variety of of grapes of which which the the black black isis used used exclusively for making red wines. In In Champagne Champagne red Burgundy wines. the white Pinot is is used. used. prr,Er - Variety PINTAIL PINTAIL (Duck). PILET like - Variety of wild duck. Prepare like wild duck or spoonbill spoonbill or shoveller shoveller duck duck (see DUCK).

PIPERADE -- Basque dish. PIPERADE dish. Cooked tomatoes tomatoes and and peppers to which eggs are by one, are added, one one by one, to fluffy pur6e. To to obtain obtain aa fluffy this is is added Bayonne Bayonne ham, ham. 702 702

PISTACHIO PISTACHIO PIPIT -- Small Small edible same PIPIT prepared in the sa me edible bird which can be prepared way as lark (q.v.).

PIPKIN. PIPKJN. HUGUENOTE HUGUENoTE little feet. without HUle

-

-

bringing the edges together and sealing them. Keep filling by bringing in a warm place to rise for 25 minutes. Bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. minutes. Polish pirozhki. pnocur por,oNArs - Roll out puffpastry 6 PoUsb oval-shaped pieces about to 7 mm. $ inch) thick and cut into ov~u-snal)ea (2| inches) wide and 10 l0 cm. (4 inches) long. 6 cm. (2! the following filling filling on on each, each, in in pieces the size of a Put the walnut. g. (2 oz., !I cup) chopped onion in butter, Saut6 gently 50 g. Sauté add 250 g. (9 oz.) veal udder udder and 250 g. (9 oz.) lean veal, cut in pepper fried in butter. butter. Season Season with salt, pepper small dice and also also fried leave to cool before before using. and nutmeg and leave Seal as ~V.~VLLV~'~ for Moscow pirozhki, and and described in the recipe recipe for bake in a hot oven for 20 minutes. minutes. plRocur AUX Pirozhki witb with truffies. trufres. PIROGUI AUx TRUFFES TRTJFFES -- Cut cooked Pirozbki truffies into thick truffies Béchamel thick round slices. slices. Cover with thick Bdchamel SAUCE) and leave until cold. sauce (see SAUCE) (q.v.\ circlets cut two blini blini (q.v.) cut out Sandwich these between between two seal the edges. well to seaJ cutter, and press down weB with aa pastry cutter, clarified in breadcrumbs and fry in c1arified Dip in beaten egg, roll in butter. Pirozhki witll with various vsrious vegetable fillings. pIRocuI AUx Pirozhki LÉGUMES lfcuuns -- Proceed Proceed as as rI"""rih",rI described in the recipe for Carrot pirozhki, replacing carrots by a salpicon (q.v.) of various vegetables cooked in butter and bound with Bichamel sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). vegetable pirozhki may be supplemented supplemented by The filling of vegetable cooked in stock or water. buckwheat or rice cooked Visiga pirozhki. pIRocuI vtslcn -- Roll out puffpastry I PIROGUI lu AU VÉSIGA cm. (t inch) thick cm. thick and cut into circlets 10 cm. (4 inches) in diameter. Put on each sorne some of of the following mixture: visiga (dry spinal spinal cord of of the sturgeon) sturgeon) Cook 100 g. (4 oz.) visiga parsley roots and stock, 4 parsley and 1 stalk ofcelery. of celery. Drain the in white stock, parsley roots and celery, celery, add add2 visiga, chop it, as well as the parsley 2 chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs and 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley. chopped Bind with 3 tablespoons (scant !I cup) cup) thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce pepper and nutmeg nutmeg and leave SAUCE). Season with salt, pepper (see SAUCE). Season with before using. to get cold before Moisten the fold in in the the shape of a the edges of the pastry, fold turnover, well, brush with beaten egg, and bake in a hot turnover, seal weil, l8 to 20 minutes. minutes. oven from 18

with or Old-fashioned cooking pot with

PIQUEPOULT-- Wine made in the Gers département, PIQlJEPOlJLT dCpartemenf, from which Armagnacs are distilled. PIQUETTE -- Wine of second or third pressing obtained by flooding husks of grapes with It is a with unsweetened warm water. water. It of grapes light, rel"reshinll! refreshing drink drink which which does does not not travel, and is is used travel, and either for for home home consumption consumption or or for for distilling distilling purposes. either Common usage has also extended the word to mean mean 'mediCommon ocre wine'.

In Russian Russian the na name PIROGHI or PIROZHKI. pnocut PIROGUI -- In me piroghi means pies large portions. large enough to be cut cut into into portions. to be Pirozhki,meaning !ittle little pies, are small small enough enough to be eaten out ofthe of the hand. prRocur AUx pirozhki. PIROGUI Roll sorne some puff Carrot pirozhki. AUX CAROTTES cARorrEs -- Roll pastry about 6 or 7 mm. (! (} inch) thick and cut into circ1es circles 10 l0 cm. (4 inches) in diameter. Shred the carrots into a brunoise (q.v.), cook in butter, mix with chopped parsley and chives, bind with chopped hard-boiled with hard-boiled eggs, parsley thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) and put put 1I tablespoon of mixture on each circ1et circlet of this mixture of pastry. pastry and Moisten the the pastry and seal, seal, enclosing the Moisten the edges of the an oval shape. Put them on a filling and giving the pirozhki anoval baking sheet, brush with beaten egg and bake for 18 minutes baking in a hot oven. pIRocuI CAUCASIENS pirozhki. PIROGUI Caucasian pirozbki. cAUcAsIENs -- Spread a thin (see CHOU) on layer of cheese-flavoured cheese-flavowed Chou on a layer Chou pastry (see pastry on sheet. Bake in in the oven. on aa table, baking sheet. oven. Put the pastry divide into 2 parts and sandwich them together, having first coated them with a light layer of thick thtck Bichamel sauce (see Béchamel sauce to which which sorne some grated cheese cheese and and cooked cooked sliced SAUCE), to mushrooms,have been added. mushrooms,have (1| cm. (Z1inches) and 3 cm. cm. (lt Cut into rectangles rectangles 66 cm. inches) long and inches) wide. Cover these with with cheese-flavoured cheese-flavowed Bichamel sauce, and and Cover Béchamel sauce, coat with with breadcrumbs. Fry in fat and in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat coat drain. Cream cheese FRoMAcE -- Butter Butter Cream PIROGUI AU AU FROMAGE cheese pirozhki. prRocur dariole moulds moulds and !ine line them dariole them with with unsweetened unsweetened Common brioche dough (see BRIOCHE). Fill with with cream cheese, cover of the same dough and seal the edges. Leave to with a circlet of warrn place for 30 minutes. Bake in a hot oven from rise in a warm 2Oto25 minutes. 20 to 25 minutes. prRocur AU POISSON porssol -- Proceed as described pirozhki. PIROGUI Fish pirozbki. described in Fish the recipe for Game pirozhki (see below), replacing the game Game pirozhki meat by chopped cooked white fish. pIRocuI AU GIBIER -- Prepare Puff pastry Game pirozhki. PIROGUI AU GmIER (see DOUGH), roll it out! (* inch) inch) thick and cut into out I cm. (! circles about 7 to 8 cm. (3 inch inches) es) in diameter. Put 1I tablespoon game hash with chopped hash (q.v.), mixed with Put hard-boiled eggs, cooked buckwheat or rice cooked in meat hard-boiled stock, on each circ1et. circlet. Moisten the edges edges of the pastry, and size and thickness. cover with another another circlet circlet of the the same size l8 to 20 Brush with beaten egg, and bake in a hot oven from 18 minutes. minutes. Roll out A LA LA MOSCOVlTE rvroscovlTE -- Roll PIROGUI À Moscow pirozhki. plRocr.n (see BRIOCHE) unsweetened Common brioche brioche dough BRIOCHE) into un:sw(~et~ene:d dough (see (2| inch inches) wide and 10 l0 cm. (4 inch inches) oval pieces pieces abou es) wide es) aboutt 6 cm. (2i long. Put on on each filling, the the size size of aa walnut, walnut, long. each aa piece of filling, prepared in the following manner. manner. g. (3 oz.) Chop and mix 100 g. (4 oz.) white flaked fish, fish, 75 g. cooked visiga (dry spinal cord of the sturgeon) and 2 hardofthe boiled eggs. Season. Season. Moisten the edges edges of the dough dough slightly and enclose the Moisten

PISSALADIDRE -- Flan made in the Nice region, PISSALADIÈRE made mainly in the Nice filled with onions, anchovy anchovy fillets and black olives. PISTACHE (EN) - Term used in the south-western part of France, mainly in the Catalan country, to describe a special rnethod of preparing leg of mutton. Its only garnish consists of cloves of garlic. (See MUTTON, Pistache of mutton.) Pigeons and partridges can also be prepared en pistache.

ptsrlclc -- Seed PISTACHIO. Seed of of the Pistacia vera, PIST ACHIO. PISTACHE the Pistacia vera, a which, it is is said, deciduous tree, tree, native of the the Levant, which, said, was brought to Rome by Vitellius. It yields an edible nut, about the size ofan of an olive, brown-reddisb brown-reddish in colour, with with aathin thin husk, inside which which aa ligneous membrane is is found. found. This is is easily pale almond separated into into 2 pieces and very pale contains separated tains aa very and con reddish skin. enclosed in a reddish pleasant flavour and are have aa sweet and pleasant Pistachio nuts have pastry-making used as as flavouring in in cookery, cookery, charcuterie, charcuterie, pastry-making used and confectionery. mutton ragoût ragofit the name name given to to aa Comminges mutton This is is the garnished with haricot haricot beans. Here is the recipe given by M. garnished Jean Peyrafitte of of the hotel 'Poste et Golf GolP at Luchon: (18 oz.) 'Soak 500 g. (18 for 12 'Soak oz.) white white Tarbes haricot beans for hours, changing tbe in an hours, beans in the water water twice. twice. Cook Cook the the beans garni, sorne earthenware casserole casserole with with aa bouquet bouquet garni, some whole garlic, 1I onion stuck with 2 or more cloves, aa good carrots, garlic, home-cured barn hock of of home-cured ham and 150 g. (5 oz.) fresh pork rinds. 703 703

PISTOU PISTOU 'Saut6 aa piece piece of (shoulder preferably). preferably). When of mutton mutton (shoulder 'Sauté When this this three-quarters cooked, cooked, drain drain itit and and add add the the haricot haricot beans. isis three-quarters beans. Simmer over low heat over aa low heat until until the the mutton mutton isis cooked. cooked. Check Simmer the Check the seasoning and serve in and serve in the the casserole.' casserole.' seasoning

me diameter into into aa circ\e circle of of the the sa same diameter as as that that fonning forming the the bottom bottom gflteau. To of of the the gâteau. piece of To seal, pastry seal, moisten moisten the the bottom bottom piece of pastry around th the around the piece, taking the edges edges and and cover cover wi with the second second piece, taking care care to to turn turn it. it. Press Press weil well ail all round round to properly, to seal seal the the edges edges properly, brush with brush with beaten beaten egg egg and and leave leave for for 55 minutes. point minutes. With With the the point ofa of a knife knife mark mark the the top top with with faint faint lines lines in in the the shape shape ofa of a rosette rosette and and bake bake in in the the oven oven from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Two Two minutes minutes before king itit out taking before ta gdteau with out of of the the oven, sprinkle the oven, sprinkle the gâteau with very very fine sugar glaze in fine the oven. sugarand and glaze part of in the the hottest hottest part ofthe oven.

(Italian cookery) PISTOU Otaliao cookery) -- This This soup, soup, the recipe for for which which isis the recipe PISTOU given in in the the section section headed headed SOUPS AND BROTHS, SOUPS AND BROTHS, isis made given made ofvarious vegetables and and thick thick vennicelli. vermicelli. Its Its main main characterof various vegetables characteristic isis that pounded garlic garlic with that pounded grilled tomatoes with basil basil and and grilled istic tomatoes mixed with with oil oil are are used. used. mixed Pistou actually pounded basil. actually means means pounded basil. Its Its meaning Pistou meaning has has been been extended to include soups to include soups incorporating incorporating the extended the latter. latter.

PITffiVIERS PITHIVIERS AU AU FOIN FOIN-- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. PLAFOND PLAFOND -- French French word word for for tinned tinned copper copper metal metal baking baking sheets, sheets, which which were were used used in in the the olden olden days davs for for browning brownine small small pieces ofmeat. pieces of meat.

PITIIMERS GÂTEAU gdteau isis aa speciality GATEAU -- This This gâteau PITHIVIERS speciality of of Pithiviers. It It isis made (see DOUGH) made of pastry (see of Puff Puff pastry Pithiviers. DOUGH) and and paste, almond pas which can prepared from can be a1mond te, which be prepared from the the foUowing following ingredients : 50 (2 oz., g. (2 (2 oz., 50 g. ingredients: g. (2 oz., tcup) almonds, 50 50 g. oz., I cup) blanched almonds, cup) fine g. (2 (2 oz., fine sugar, sugar, 50 50 g. (3 oz., ± cup) butter, 33 eggs eggs and i* cup) and tj dl. dl. (3 f, cup) tablespoons, scant! scant I cup) cup) rum. rum. tablespoons, Pound the Pound the almonds almonds in in aa mortar, mortar, adding adding 1I egg. egg. When When they they paste, put into aa bowl, add castor fine paste, are reduced to aa fine castor sugar sugar and butter, butter, and and blend blend the mixture, stirring en and the mixture, stirring with with aa wood wooden spoon until very smooth. smooth. Add Add 2 eggs, one flavour one by one, one, and and flavour puffpastry piece 20 rum. Roll Roll out out half the the puff with rum. pastry into aa round piece 20 (8 inches) in diameter crn (8 (,o1inch) cm inch) thick. Turn diameter and and 2 mm (io Turn the and put on a moistened moistened metal sheet. pastry and paste, leaving about 22 cm the almond almond paste, (| Spread this with the cm Ginch) of the the edge edge uncovered. uncovered. Roll Roll out the inch) the rest rest of the the pastry

Plaice

pLrE FRANCHE PLAICE. PLAICE. CARRELET, cARRELET, PLIE FRANcHE -- Seawater Seawater fish fish which which isis fiat, flat, diamond-shaped diamond-shaped with The two eyes with rounded angles. angles. The eyes are are

plaice How to to fillet fillet plaice

Remove head

Make an down the back base base Make incision down an incision the back

Cut into fillets

Skin

704

PLATE was distributed distributed to to the the meal meal this this bread was trencher. After the poor. At the end fifteenth century everybody wanted to end of the fifteenth At and dishes. Juvenal Juvenal des des Ursin sorrowfully have silver plates plates and protested against this abuse. protested plates became and seventeenth centuries centuries plates In the sixteenth and gold, enamel magnificent works of art, in which which gold, enamel and even art, in and even m~Lgrlitilcerlt works precious stones stones were combined. There exist today wonderful wonderful plates which were were made by the enamellers of Limoges. Limoges. Plants, relief on the plates of shells and animais animals can be seen worked in relief Bernard Palissy. the plates in precious metals Although the greater part of the present-day plates -- about enamels are of the same size as present-day and enamels cm. (8 inches) in diameter -- they were rather show show pieces 20 cm. Sivres than table utensils in daily use. Plates manufactured at Sèvres ofbygone come very near to the art of bygone days. The faïence faience of Moustiers, for its its decorative Moustiers, remarkable for The qualities and purity of its was for time long lime and the the purity its enamel, enamel, was for aa long attributed to the facto factories attributed ries of Rouen. At the the end end of of the the seventeenth seventeenth century Pierre Pierre Clerissy, At potters, created in coming from in Moustiers Moustiers aa from aa family of potters, coming pottery industry, 'must have to Davillier, 'must industry, which, according to brought him town aa century him aa fortune, fortune, and and to to his century of of brought his town n,.,",c,.."",.,tu'. prosperity'. His nephew, who succeeded succeeded him in 1728 I 728 and bore the same same name, was elevated by Louis XV in in 1743 and and took Trevans. He was appointed secretary the title of Seigneur de Trevans. of the the king's of king's chancellery in in 1847 1847 by by the the Parliament Parliament of of Provence, when when he forces with with Joseph Fouque, a Provence, he joined forces skilled artist, and handed over his factory to him. The factory painters and remained remained the first first and most by now employed employed 28 painters be established his comcomsoon to important of ail established by his all those those soon to be petitors at neighbouring Iv\..al1U,",". localities. at Moustiers and and in in several neighbouring Its products enjoyed reputation, which which they Its enjoyed aa well-merited reputation, maintained for Delaporte, in in his for aa long long time, time, for for Abbé Abb6 Delaporte, Voyageur français, it in in in Paris in in 1788, 1788, speaks speaks of it Voyageur frangais, published in these terms terms:: 'There is in the !ittle little town of Moustiers aa factory'of faience kingdom.' considered the best and finest finest in the A.U'5""'-'IlLJ. which is considered at Other Other factories factories in France included those in the the south south of of France those at Marseille. Sorne notably those those of Savy, Savy, produced Some of these, these, notably still life, remarkable pieces, decorated with landscapes landscapes and and still decorated with painted with great perfection. The decoration ofplates plates offers subjects ofsubjects offers aa great variety of and curiosities. is very majolica,is curiosities. The The décor d6cor ofItalian of Italian plates, or majolica, varied. At were mixed mixed with varied. At the the beginning, the the ornaments were great figures, figures, then from the works of then scenes scenes reproduced from the works of great masters began to take precedence, often often taking up the whole surface. Finally, the central motive was framed with so-called grotesque ornaments. grotesque Italian influence isis felt; At Nevers, Nevers, Italian ornaments. At later we find find white decorations on on Persian blue background. Still Still later later cornes Nevers also also produced comes the the Chinese Chinese style. Nevers popular china 'patronymic' so-called'patronymic' china plates, particularly so-called plates, bearing the name person for whom they were whom they name of tbe the person presents, witb figure of his or destined as wedding presents, with aa figure of his or her as wedding patron saint professional painted on patron al it; plates bearing bearing profession saint painted on it; emblems and plates made revolutionary period, the revolutionary and plates made during the with mottos and symbols. symbols. popular Historical events have often been represented on on popular often been plates. The plates. scenes, The conquest Algeria, depicting military military scenes, conquest of of Algeria, such the consuls consuls of of as the of the the croix uoix d'honneur; d'honneur; the such as the award award of Damascus Damascus congratulating Abd his intervention intervention Abd el-Kader on on his on by the the on the the side side of the Lebanese Lebanese Maronites Maronites massacred by Turks; Turks; the welcoming French and the Syrian Maronites we1coming French troops, and episodes pictures and B6ranger from the War. Puzzle pictures and Béranger episodes from the 1914 1914 War. songs songs also also decorated decorated popular plates. Rouen plates plates have several styles styles of of decoration: decoration: the have had several lambrequin lambrequin design, symmetrical patterns, redesign, composed composed of of symmetrical peated or towards the centre of or alternating, alternating, and and converging converging towards

set on the left side of of the head. The left side is brownish brownish with rounded or oval spots, red or orange. Plaice have 5 or 6 bony tubercles well marked between the eyes. eyes. The reverse side is white. quite good, quality, is This fish, is quite though of of medium medium quality, This fish, though provided provided it is perfectly perfectly fresh. Boiled plaice witb with various various sauces. BoUILLI -- Only Boiled saucesi. CARRELET cARRELET BOillLLl large plaice are used in this way, cooked whole, or eut cut into slices. Cook them in a court-bouillon of water, milk, salt, and lemon slices, slices, in the same way as for brill (q.v.). Serve with Drain the plaice plaice and garnish with fresh parsley. Serve boiled potatoes potatoes in a dish and with one of the sauces which are normally served with boiled fish. normally served FEMME -cARRELET A ra BONNE noxNn FEMME À LA Plaice ài la bonne femme. CARRELET asfor d la bonne bonnefemme Proceed as for Brill Brm à femme (see BRILL). pucrfRf -- Cut a large plaice into Plaice Dugléré. Dugl6r6. CARRELET Plaice clnnnlsr DUGLÉRÉ (see and cook slices and in the Dugléré (see cook in the same way way as as for for Bass .Bass DuglCrd BASS). BASS). lore main it was was for for plaice that Dugl6r6 Chefs lore tains that it plaice that maintains (then chef invented this method chef of (then Cafd Anglais) Anglais) invented of the one-time Café of preparation, of preparation, which in actual practice practice is used for bass, brill and chicken-turbot. chicken-turbot. Use only sm small Fried plaice. plaice. CARRELET ail plaice and cARRELET FRIT FRIT -- Use cook in the same manner as Fried brm (see BRILL). Friedbrill Plaice ài J'indienne. I'indienne. CARRELET A L'iNDIENNE l'rNotpNr.rE -- Cut aa large cARRELET À plaice plaice into pepper and put them in into slices. Season Season with salt and pepper aa pan on ions softened in butter and on aa base base of chopped on onions softened in seasoned with curry seasoned curry powder. with curry Stew plaice with the Stew the the plaice the lid lid on. it with on. Sprinkle Sprinkle it powder, pour over it 2 dl. ({ pint, scant cup) white wine for dl. (t 750 g. (1+ lb.) Boil down down the liquor, and and cover with the liquor, lb.) fish. fish. Boil (see SAUCE), Bé(:hmnel sauce sauce (see Bichamel not too thick. Cook Cook for for a too thick. SAUCE), not further 15 minutes minutes on a low heat. Place Place the slices in a dish, cover boiled-down cover them with the boiled-down sauce to which butter little butter has been added, flavoured with aa !iule lemon juice. Serve with Rice àd l'indienne lemonjuice. I'indienne (see RICE). NIÇOISE - Make Plaice ài la Make sorne some la nigoise. CARRELET cARRTLET À A LA re Nlgotss plaice. Season light incisions in the with salt salt and and pepper. the plaice. Season with Brush it with oi! oil and grill under under a gentle heat. Put it on a serving serving dish dish on a layer of tomatoes softened softened in garlic and chopped tarragon. Laya butter, seasoned seasoned with garlic Lay a grid of anchovies anchovies on fish, and sprinkle with with capers. on top top of the fish, Surround it with and with green olives which have have been stoned and olives which blanched, or or unstoned black olives. olives. Sprinkle with chopped basil. As As well well as as the indicated above, above. see see also also those the methods indicated given for BRILL; BRILL; TURBOT; TURBOT; SOLE.

PLAISIR -- Frencb word for aa small wafer or oublie, rolled French word oublie, rolled into a cone (see OUBLIE.) OUBLIE.) PLANT AIN TREE. PLANTAIN TREE. FIGillER banana tree FrcurER D'ADAM - A type of banana (see BANANA). PLASTRON PLASTRON -- Ventral Ventral part of the shell of turtles. This part, as weil the horny well as the dorsal one, after being taken out of ofthe plate or shell, is used for making turtle soup. PLATE. PLATE. ASSIETTE AssTETTE-- Small table utensil, utensil, mostly of porcelain or china nowadays, of vdrious materials in the past. The centre of various of plate is called the 'well' and the border, which fonns forms the of the plate the the'well' band around the hollow part, is called the 'rim'. This band is the'rim'. a\so 'shoulder'. also sometimes referred referred to as the the'shoulder'. The Greeks first, tryps, were Greeks had had two types of plates: the the first, tryps, were quite large and could serve as was tryblion,was as a dish; the other, tryblion, smaller. smaller. The Romans had and gold. had plates in in pottery, glass, silver and The common people used wooden bowls. In It In the the Middle Ages, Ages, the disappeared. It the individual plate disappeared. was was replaced replaced by called aa by aa round round slice of bread bread whieh which was called 705 705

PlarE, PLATE

(l8th century) Rouen (18th century) Rouen

Old Sèvres Sdvres Old

Moustier Moustier

Moustier

(Empire period) Sdvres (Empire Sèvres period)

Old Sèvres

Wedgwood: and dessert dessert plates plates Wedgwood: Dinner Dinner and

Sdvres (Fontainebleau service) Sèvres (Fontainebleau service)

Goupy: Goupy: soup soup and and dinner dioner plates plates

Woodhouse: and side side plates plates Woodhouse: dinner, dinner, soup, soup, dessert, dessert, salad salad and SOME SOME EXAMPLES EXAMPLES OF OF OLD OLD PLATES PLATES

706

PLUM the plate; the design inspired style, armorial ins pired by the rococo style, bearings, carefully noted down. bearings, and couplets with the music music carefully Floral pieces, in fresh decorate Strasfresh and brilliant colours, decorate bourg bourg plates. Decoration of plates is in fact a very active branch of art, Decoration even in modern timestimes.

PLATINE-- French name for a smalliow PLATINE small low baking pan. PLEUROTUS -- Genus of fungi, PLEUROTUS fungi, sorne some species of which are edible and exce\lent. edible excellent. PLOMBIERE (Ice) PLOMBIÈRE (lee) -* Iced sweets (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND rcEs). ICES).

Greengages Greengages

plover Golden plover (14/. E. Higham) Highan) (w.

the famous famous liqueur is also also used used for which is the liqueur isis made made and and which compotes, jams and in pdtisserie) matures during the which matures compotes, pâtisserie)which fruit, medium-sized fruit, month of of August; the the ente or Agen plum, medium-sized ripens in in September in colour which which ripens September (usually pinkish violet in sold as prunes). fruit. They They All these these varieties of plums are eaten as as fresh fresh fruit. Ali compotes, jams and a large number may also be used to make compotes,jams dessert fruit. fruit. of pastry desserts. desserts. The plum is an excellent excellent dessert of pRUNEs BOURDALOUE Large greenBoTJRDALoUE - Large Bourdaloue. PRUNES Plums Bourdaloue. gages are used in this way. Proceed as for fot Apricots Bourdaloue Bourdaloue (see APRICOT). Plums in in brandy. A L'EAU-DE-VIE r'El,u-oE-vIE - Wipe Wipe sorne some Plums brandy. PRUNES IRUNES À greengages and needle. times with with aa big big needle. greengages and prick them 22 or or 33 times g. (9 Weigh Weigh the fruit. Make aa syrup syrup ofsugar of sugar in the ratio of250 of 250 g. I generous cup) sugar and 3 tablespoons tablespoons (! oz., oz., 1 $ cup) water to (220"F.). (21b.) each kg. (2 lb.) fruit, fruit, and cook to !05°e. 105"C. (220°F.). plums in it. Let them immerse the plums When When this syrup syrup is ready, immerse twice before boil twice touching with the skimmer. before touching Drain and put them in ajar. a jar. Let the syrup syrup cool completely. good quality brandy Add to brandy equal equal to to the the Add to itit aa quantity of of good quantity ofsyrup. liquid through the quantity of syrup. Strain Strain the liquid through muslin and fill the jar with it. Cork and secure well before jar secure firmly. Leave to soak weil before using.

pLUvrER PLO VER. PLUVlER PLOYER.

-- Genus of wading birds of which there are plo ver is is about about the the size are several size of a several species: species: the the great plover lapwing lapwing or peewit and, and, like like them, them, haunts marshlands and golden plover of a meadows near the sea. The golden plo ver is the size of water meadows plumage is speckled with yellow. turtle turtle dove and its plumage game and Plovers and sorne some gastPlovers are considered excellent excellent game are considered ronomes ronomes insist that undrawn. This they should be be cooked undrawn. that they tradition is an old one: in the sixteenth sixteenth century, according to Lucien Tendret, only three kinds of of birds (larks, turtle doves plovers) were roasted and plovers) 'breaking into them'. without'breaking roasted without Plover can be prepared in able for woodcock in any any way suit suitable (q.v.).

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PLUCHES -- French name name for for the leaves of certain plants, such as parsley. These leaves used as chervil and parsley. leaves are generally used raw, chervilleaves some cases chervil leaves being put into sorne some soups. In sorne the leaves are blanched boiling water. blanched in boiling PLUCK. ISSUES slaughtered rssuEs -- The lights, heart heart and entrails of slaughtered pluck animais. AL or V ARIETY MEATS, Lamb Lamb's's pluck animals. (See OFF VARIETY OFFAL àd l'anglaise). I'anglaise). giblets of The French word issues wrongly used used for the the giblets lssues is is wrongly poultry. The expression used formerly to expression issues issaes de de table was used describe the last tit-bits served at the end of ofaa great banquet. These included sweets, fruit, sweets, sugared sugared almonds, crystallised fruit, and other delicacies which went with the the sweet. sweet. Sometimes Sometimes these room next to the the in aa room the table but in these were not served at the dining-room. dining-room.

plum tree, PLUM. PLUM. PRUNE tree, of of the the family IRUNE -- Fruit Fruit of of the the plum Rosaceae. in Europe. Europe. There There is Rosaceae. It It isis cultivated cultivated evel'ywhere everywhere in an infinite variety of plum trees all produce trees in France which ail sweet-tasting the greengage these are arcthe sweet-tasting fruit. Among Among the best of of these (reine-claude) which ripens at the end of (reine-claude) of July and whose flesh (reinevoured; the golden greengage (reineis very sweet and weil well fla flavoured;the claude dorée) dorCe) which ripens towards the the end end of August; the which ripens mirabelle, colour streaked streaked with mirabelle, a small round plum, yellow in colour red, the flesh very weil the ripened at the well flavoured, which is fully ripened end the Saint violet, black, and end of August; violet, and white white damsons; the the quetsche Catherine; the yellow ;the quetsche (the fruit from which the early early yellow;

'Agen' plums 'Agen'plums

707 707

POACHING POACHING pRUNEs coNnrss plums. PRUNES Candtedplums. Preparedasasfor Candied Candied CONFITES - - Prepared for Candied (see apricots APRICOT). apricots (see APRICOT). Compote ofplums of plums-- See SeeCOMPOTE, COMPOTE, Plum Plumcompote. compote. Compote pRUNEs coNDf Plums Condé. Cond6. PRUNES greengages Largegreen are used used Plums CONDÉ - - Large gages are

freshwaterbouillabaisse. bouillabaisse.The dishisisaaspeciality specialityof Verdunfreshwater The dish ofVerdunsur-le-Doubs (where (where tbere there isisaaconfrerie confrerie dedicated dedicated totoit). it).The The sur-le-Doubs pochouse never truepochouse nevercontains contains larding larding fat fatand and must true mustcontain contain burbot. burbot. Pochouse de deVerdun-sur-le-Doubs Verdun-sur-le-Doubs - - Made Made with Pochouse withfish fishof of different kinds: pike,carp, kinds: eel, eel,pike, carp,barbel, barbel,chub chuband andbream. bream. different Cutthem them up placein upand andplace inaatinned tinned coppercauldron. Cut copper cauldron.Pour Pourinin glasswbite white Burgundy Burgundy wine, wine, covering coveringthe 1Iglass thefish. fish. pochouse requiring For aapochouse requiring about (4to about22kg. kg.(4 you to5Ib.) 5 lb.)offish, For of fish,you will need needaafair fairamount amount of garlic, 100 (aoz.) ofgarlic, 100g.g.(4 oz.)bacon bacon cut will cutinto into lardoonso thyme, thyme, bay bayleaf, leaf,enough good pinch enoughsalt pinch of saltand lardoons, andaagood of pepper. Grill Grill the the bacon. bacon. pepper. Knead 250 (9oz., 250 g.g.(9 generouscup) oz., generous cup)fresh fresh butter butter mixed Knead mixedwith with flour, for for thickening thickening the the sauce. sauce. Cook Cook for for30 45minutes. flour, 30to to45 minutes. At At first boil boil fast, fast, then then simmer simmer for for 12 12minutes, first minutes, after after the thebutter butter has has been added. added. been To serve, serve, take take tbe the chunks chunks out out one put them by one, To one,put one by them on on aa dish on on aa foundation foundation of crottons of of croûtons dish of bread bread fried fried in in butter and butter and garlic. Strain rubbed with with garlic. Strain the the sauce sauce over rubbed fish. over the the fish. Take care care not not to the chunks to stir stir the Take chunks offish offish duringcooking;just during cooking ; just shake the pan. the pan. shake Avoid cooking cooking the the hard hard roes roes of pike, barbel Avoid of pike, barbel and and chub. chub.

for this this recipe. recipe. Proceed Proceed as (see as for for Apricots ApricotsCondé Condi (see for APRTCOT). APRICOT). pRrJNEs rrArasf,Es A r,c, LonRATNE Plums flambé flambe Lorraine. Lorraine. PRUNES Plums FLAMBÉES À LA LORRAINECook ligbtly lightly inin aavaniUa vanilla syrup syrup sorne somestoned plums. stoned mirabelle mirabelle plums. Cook Draino and put them and put them in in ovenware ovenware dishes. dishes. Pour Pour over over aalittle little Drain, syrup bound bound with with arrowroot. arrowroot. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with hot hot Quetsche. Set Quetsche. Set syrup alight wben when serving. serving. alight Plum fritters fritters -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Plum Plum fritters fritters ài l'agenaise l'agenaise -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Plum Ice and and iced iced mousse plums. GLACE, mousse of of plums. MoussE GLACÉE cLAcE, MOUSSE crlcfr AUX nux Ice pRUNEs procedure as the same same procedure for Apricot asfor Apricot ice ice or or lced lced PRUNES -- FFollow ollow tbe (see ICE mousse (see ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). ICES). mousse pRUNEs jam. CONFITURE Plum jam. coNFlruRE DE DE PRUNES g. (12 (12 oz., Allow 350 350 g. oz.,ll Plum -- Allow 11cups) sugar sugar for g. (18 (18 oz.) for 500 500 g. oz.) stoned stoned fruit. fruit. Proceed Proceed as for as for cups) (see JAMS Apricot jam (see JAMS AND AND JELLlES). JELLIES). Apricotjam pRUNEs A rl roRnuNr Plum soufflé soufl6 Lorraine. Lorraine. SOUFFLÉ sorJFFLf AUX AUx PRUNES Plum À LA LORRAINE pur6e of Prepare aa purée g. (7 (7 oz.) of 200 200 g. oz.) mirabelle plums and mirabelle plums and mix mix itit -- Prepare (9 oz., with 250 g. (9 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) sugar sugar cooked cooked to to aa heavy heavy with syrup. Add Add 55 egg egg whites whites beaten to aa very beaten to very stiff stiff foam foam and and then then syrup. preserved plums, diced preserved plums, soaked plum brandy. soaked in in plum brandy. To To cook, cook, diced proceed as (see SOUFFLÉ). as for for sweet sweet soufflés souffi6s (see SOUFFLE). proceed Afsatian plum plum tart tart-- See TART, Fruit See TART, Fruit tart tart àd l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. AJsatian pocnc,cr POACHING. Method of of cooking cooking meat, poultry, meat, poultry, POACIDNG. POCHAGE -- Metbod fish, etc., etc., in in aa clear clear spiced spiced and and flavoured flavoured stock, stock, or in water. or in watei. fish, (See CULINARY CULINARY METHODS.) METHODS.) (See pocrss -- The Poached eggs. eggs. OEUFS oEuFs pocHÉS The eggs eggs selected selected must must be be Poached poached eggs). small and and very (see EGGS, very fresh fresh (see EGGS, Poached eggs). small

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POD. COSSE cossE -- Vessel Vessel enclosing POD. enclosing certain certain leguminous leguminous seeds: pea seeds: pea pod, bean pod, etc. bean pod, etc. pod,

POtLAGE -- Method Method of POÊLAGE of cooking cooking applied applied to to various various subsubstances, which which are are cooked cooked àd l'étuvée, stances, I'dtuvie, that is, in in aa covered covered pan pan that is, polwith butter (See CULINARY butter or or other with other fat. fat. (See CULINARY METHODS, METHODS. Potroasting.) roasting.)

POCHARD. AYTHYA Ayrr{yA -- Species Species of of duck duck known known as as pochard, POCHARD. pockard (the female poker (the or poker female of which is known as dunbird). dunbird). pockard or A fully-grown pochard has male pochard has aa bright bright red red head head and and A fully-grown male neck; the back back and and breast breast partly dull black, partly partly ash-grey neck; the partly a dull with The sides sides are are similarly similarly striped; striped; the with thin thin black black stripes. stripes. Tbe lower region of the abdomen abdomen is is black, 10wer region oftbe black, the bill bill is dark blue, the culmen and the tip are are black, culmen and the tip black, the tarsus and the tbe scutes blueish and.the orange-red. The The plumage of the female female of the and. the eyes eyes orange-red. plumage of species, spring, is species, even even in in the the spring, is less less brilliant. brilliant. This of frequently nests nests in in the the marshy marshy plains plains of Tbis species species frequently Holland, and Belgium and crosses Holland, Northern Northern Germany Germany and Belgium and France France twice twice aa year year during during winter winter migrations. migrations. They are then keenly keenly pursued pursued by by sportsmen sportsmen for for the the succulence and and the distinctive distinctive taste taste of of their their flesh, flesh, which is is greatly greatly prized prized by connoisseurs. connoisseurs. All Ali the the methods methods of of preparation preparation given given for wild duck can be applied applied to to pochard pochard (see (see DUCK). DUCK).

c|fr';,|;H.o

Poêle (pan) ror for crèpes, fish and ordinary frying Po€le (Larousse)

POCHOUSE POCHOUSE -- The The pochouse pochouse (also (also written pauchose) pauchose) is a matelote matelote (q.v.) (q.v.) made made of of all kinds kinds of of freshwater freshwater fish, with witb eel predominating, predominating, which whicb should should be be cooked cooked with with white white wine wine and thickened thickened with with Kneaded Kneaded butter butter (see (see BUTTER), BUTTER), as as with with Matelo te dd la Matelote la rneuniire meunière (see (see MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Cut Cut the tbe fish fish into into uniform uniform chunks chunks and and put put into into a buttered buttered

"rdinary

POÊLON --An earthenware utensil utensil or aa pan made ofcopper POELON An earthenware of copper sorne other other metal, with a long long handle. Such aluminium or some aluminium or copper pans are are used used for cooking cooking sugar. POGNE DE ROMANS - Cake which is is a a kind kind of of sweet sweet POGNE brioche and is prepared in the following manner: manner: sift 500 500 g. g. brioche (18 (18 oz., oz., 4! 41- cups) cups) flour and and spread spread itit on the the table in aa circle. In tbe middle middle of of this circle cirde put 1| li- teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I1 tablespoon the

saut6 sauté pan pan on on aa foundation foundation of of onions onions and and carrots carrots cut cut in in slices. slices. Season Season and and put put on on aa big big bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v) (q.v.) containing I1 clove clove of ofgarlic garlicin in the the middle, middk Pour Pour in in enough enough dry dry white white wine wine to to cover cover the the fish. fish. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, then then cover cover and and simmer simmer from from

orange blossom blossom water, or or I1- teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract, 25 25 g. (l (1 orange oz.) yeast, yeast, 250 250 g. g. (9 oz., generous generous cup) softened softened butter butter and and 44 oz.)

20to25 20 to 25 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the pieces pieces of of fish. fish. Put Put them them into into another another saut6 sauté pan pan

Mix all ail the the ingredients ingredients well, weil, working the the dough eggs. Mix eggs. vigorously to to give give itit body. body. Add Add 22 more more eggs, eggs, one one by by one one and, and, vigorously finally, still still kneading kneading the the dough, dougb, incorporate incorporate 200 200 g. (7 oz., oz., finally, scant cup) cup) castor castor (fine) (fine) sugar sugar little !ittle by little. little. Put Put this this dough dough scant into aa small small bowl bowl sprinkled sprinkled with witb flour, flour, cover, cover, and and keep keep in aa into warm place place from from l0 10 to to 12 12 hours. bours. wann Turn out out the the dough dough on on to to aa board board and and pummel pummel itit to to arrest arrest Turn

with with diced diced bacon, bacon, mushrooms mushrooms and and small small onions. onions. Thicken Tbicken the tbe liquor liquor in in which wbich the the fish fish was was cooked cooked with with kneaded kneaded butter. butter. Strain Strainand andpour pour over overthe the fish. fisb. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. moments. Just Just before before serving serving add add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. The The word word comes cornes from from the tbe fisherman's fisherrnan's 'poche', 'poche', the the game game bag bag he he fills fills with with the the various various fish fisb that that go go to to make make up up this this 708 708

POITOU POITOU potie potée dà la tdte tête de de porc, porc, which which furnishes both a soup and the main is cut eut into into pieces and eaten main course; course; the the pig's head is vinegar. Among the sprinkled and a dash of ofvinegar. tbe fish sprinkled with sea sea salt and from Saint-Trojan; Saint-Trojau bouilleture, a eels from dishes are: dishes arc: grilled eels matelote of of eel in red wine, wine, with prunes prunes added to the garnish; garnish ; matelote of the chaudrée, aafish feature being the variety variety of chaudrie, fish stew, its main feature fish used; the cotriade, a kind of of bouillabal'sse, which is not Vendée dish dish but is is made all ail along the coast, specifically a Vend6e particularly in the canton canton of Noirmoutier. Frogs' legs àd la vinegar-flavoured soaked for for 1I hour in vinegar-flavoured luconnaise are first soaked flour, fried fried in with flour, water, then then drained, drained, dried, dried, dredged with water, noisette butter huller and served with fried cloves of garlic. noisette Among meat dishes, disbes, is the Vendiefressureiit is the pluck, Among chopped and spleen, chopped including the pig's pig's lungs, Jungs, liver, heart heart and spleen, including mixed with congealed pig's blood. The whole is then cooked with chopped fat bacon, slowly, for a long time. It is usually eaten cold. and Pâté de Paques, or Easter pie, is long, crescent shaped and P6ti and slices filled with balls of bashed hard-boiled eggs, and hashed meat, hard-boiled to get sauteed in in butter and left to of pork, chicken or rabbit, sautéed rabbit and fillets of wild wild rabbit is made made of fillets cold. The The Vendée VendCe pre is pork, forcemeat forcemeat of of the flesh mixed with an equal quantity of pork, Easter loaf or galette piquante is half cooked and chopped. chopped. Easter and sugar, eggs eggs and made with butter, butter, sugar, mixed with made of bread bread dough dough mixed orange-blossom orange-blossom water, and shaped into a cob. grecn cabcabVp.!PNllhlp. dishes include which is is green chouie, which the chouée, Vegetable include the plentyof pressed, with plenty bage boiledin salted .. water, drained u ...... ,' '.ua ....... " and pressed, of in the the cooked in French beans beans cooked mogelfes, French butter added to it; """IXr::U",~, far (or cream;; the thefar ordinary way and dressed with butter and cream vegetables, such as of different different vel~et:ables, composed of farci), which isis composed leeks, and cabbage, first cooked Swiss chard chard leaves, leaves, spinach, leeks, pressed, chopped and stewed in in salted water, then then drained, drained, pressed, for and diced bacon. Beaten for aa long time with pork fat, fat, onion onion and eggs and cream are added to the mixture. the tourteaufromagC, include the Notable sweets and pastries include paste, to cream goat cheese reduced to fine paste, to which to aa fine cream cheese or or goat egg is butter, egg quarter its flour, fine fine sugar, butter, weight of of flour, is added added aa quarter its weight It isis and flavourings. It yolks, whites froth, and into aa stiff stiff froth, whites beaten into in the the ferment, and and baked in to ferment, allowed to then put into into aa mould, allowed ('faggot'), aa circlet covered fouée ('faggot'), oyen. bread dough dough covered circlet of of bread oven. The The/ouie in aa to be be baked baked in with crea m, melted butter or which used used to oil, which or oil, cream, kind of of oreillettes oreillettes blazing bottereaux de de Langon, aa kind blazing oven; oven; hottereaux pies. The following among deep-fried plum pies. are among following are in oil, oil; and and plum deep-fried in

fermentation. Divide Divide into into 22 parts, parts, mould mould into into balls, balls, shape shape the fermentation. top (as (as in in the the case case of of ordinary ordinary brioche). brioche). Put Put the the cakes into into top another 30 30 buttered baking baking tins, tins, leave leave the the dough to to rise rise for another buttered minutes in in aa warm warm place, place, brush brush with with beaten beaten egg egg and and bake bake in a minutes It can can be be moderate oven oyen (the pogne can be be eaten eaten hot hot or or cold). cold). It moderate jelly. served with with redcurrant reclcurracntjell served

POISSONNIER -- Chef Chef of of an an important important restaurant restaurant who who is in POISSONNIER of all ail fish fish dishes, dishes, with the the exception of of fried or or grilled charge of charge of the the rdtisseur rôtisseur or the grillardin. fish, which which are are the the domain domain of fish, a1so means means fishmonger. Poissonnier also Poissonnier

POITOU

The Poitou Poitou gastronomic gastronomie folklore folklore - The

extends to extends

départements (Vend6e, (Vendée, Vienne, Deux-Sdvres, Deux-Sèvres, MaineMaineseveral dipartements several The culinary specialities specialities are in fact local dishes, as as et-Loire). The et-Loire). are everywhere, everywhere, varying varying in detail according to tastes in they are

places. different places. The cattle cattle raised raised in in Parthenay Parthenay and and Bressuire Bressuire provide provide The is of of good good quality quality and the pork, pork, owing owing excellent meat, meat, mutton mutton is excellent is of of excellent excellent flavour. flavour. the good pig food, is to the of birds: turkeys, produces aa whole range range of Poultry farming produces guinea fowl, and in the cantons of Chefcapons, table fowl, guinea Boutonne and and Sauzé-Vaussay ducks are for the raised for are raised Boutonne Sauz6-Vaussay ducks of foie foie gras. Civray pâte de foie gras gras is famous; production of Civray pdte de foie de canard canard are also made here. confits de are also is of high repute, as as weil well as as winged game Ground game is woodcock, snipe, quail, rail and field-ducks) and (partridges, woodcock, waterfowl abounds abounds here. waterfowl Coastal parts of fish. Aimost Almost excellent fish. Vend6e abound in excellent of Vendée Portuguese oysters there. The Portuguese every kind of shellfish is found there. _,"T"_. ___.I.._ and the Aiguilfrom the the mussels mussels from of Tranche Groin-du-Cou, the and Groin-du-Cou, Ion mussel lobsters of the island of Yeu lon mussel farms and and the spiny lobsters are provide aa Ereat variety of The rivers rivers provide are greatly prized. The freshwater fish, the brooks and streams furnish crayfish and the eels and and frogs. the marshes marshes abound in eels The of produces an an abundance abundance of The land of is fertile and and produces of Poitou is onions, articbokes, peas, Marac haricot beans, Niort artichokes, garden peas, cauliflowers and green cabbages. cabbages. Vend6e green and Vendée The produces choice choice The wooded wooded district north-west of Poitou produces chestnuts Vienne equally good walnuts. chestnuts and and Vienne La Mothe Mothe are La district are made in in this this district Among the the cheeses cheeses made chabichou, Goat cheese, cheese, Vienne chabichou, Saint-H6raye, Saint-Loup, Saint-Loup, Goal etc. good. is good. etc. Local butter, Charente, Charente, is Culinary is local dishes dishes is Among the the typical typical local Culinary specialities specialities -- Among

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POIVRADE POIVRADE noted local products: Mon local products: Montmorillon macaroons and andbiscuits; biscuits; noted tmorillon macaroons Lusignan melusines melusines and and macaroons; macaroons;Parthenay Parthenay biscuits; biscuits; Lusignan Chatellerault caramels car ame ls; ;Niort Niort angelica. angelica. Chatellerault Wines -- Poitou Poitou offers offersaa selection selection of ofexcellent excellent non-vintage non-vintage Wines local wines. wines. The The angelica angelica liqueur liqueur of Niortisisvery of Niort very weil wellknown. known. local POMADE. Method Method of preparingcertain of preparing certain meats, meats, mainly mainly POIVRADE. ground game. game. (See (SeeSAUCE, SAUCE, Pepper poivrade sauce). Pepperor or poivrade sauce\. ground The name name also young artichokes alsoapplies applies to tosmall small young artichokeswhich which are are The eaten à(i la la croque-au-sel (with salt croque-au-sel (with salt as as the the only only accompaniaccompanieaten ment). ment).

theDordogne. ofthe Dordogne. Production Production isislimited limitedtotovigorous, vigorous,aromatic aromatic of redwines winesof ofoutstanding quality and outstandingquality andexcellent excellent bouquet. bouquet. red

POMFRET. BRÈME sRtrffiDE DEMER (Bramabrama) MER- - Fish Fish (Brama POMFRET. brama)which whichisis also known known asasRay's .Ray'sbream breamand andsea seabream, bream,and foundininthe also and isisfound the pomfretisisalso North Atlantic Atlantic and andPacific PacificOceans. Oceans.Pomfret alsothe thename name North offiat flatfish fishfound found ininthe theIndian Indian Ocean. Ocean. of

POMMARD -- This This wine, produced ininthe wine,which which isisproduced POMMARD little thelittle commune of (C6tede ofCôte-d'Or C6te-d'Or(Côte deBeaune), Beaune), isisc\assed classedamong commune among the finest growthsof finest growths ofBurgundy Burgundy wines. wines. the

POMON -- French French common common name name for for red pepper or red pepper or POIVRON pimento. pimento.

POMME DE DE PIN PIN-_See SeeRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF POMME OFBYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

POLAI\D POLAND

See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY. See POLENTA Piedmont form (corn) of maize porridge. meal POLENTA - Piedmont form of maize (corn) meal porridge.

It isis made made of flour dried of maize maize f10ur dried in in the the open open and not in in the and not the oyen, oven, It gaudes (hast (hasty as for for gaudes puddings). ItIt can can also also be be made made of of y puddings). as chestnut f1our, flour. as as is is do done in Corsica. Corsica. chestnut ne in Polenta isis used garnish for used as garden warblers as aa garnish for garden warblers and and other other Polenta similar small small birds; birds; this this isis aa traditional traditional north north Italian Italian dish dish and and similar great favourite was aa great favourite of of Napoleon Napoleon 1.I. was To cook polenta. Bring cook polenta. Bring 1I litre pints, generous generous quart) litre (1(l|i pints, quart) To water to to the the boil, boil, add add salt, salt, allowing allowing 2-! per litre. 2j teaspoons teaspoons per litre. water (9 oz.) Sprinkle in g. (9 in 250 250 g. gradually, stirring oz.) maize maize f10ur flour gradually, with aa stirring with Sprinkle wooden spoon. Cook Cook from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Add, Add, for for the the wood en spoon. above quantity quantity of polenta, about of polenta, (2loz., about 65 g. (2-! 65 g. tablespoons) above oz., 55 tablespoons) (3 oz., butter and g. (3 and 75 grated Parmesan 75 g. oz.,*î cup) cup) grated Parmesan cheese. cheese. butter polenta on Spread the the polenta on aa moistened moistened baking baking tray tray in in an an even even Spread layer. Wh When cold, cut cut into into square square or lozenge-shaped pieces. pieces. or lozenge-shaped en cold, layer. pieces golden Fry these golden brown these pieces brown in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish Fry and sprinkle grated chee sprinkle with (see with grated cheese and Noisette Noisette butter butter (see and se and BUTTER). BUTTER). Polenta can can be garnish for be used used as as aa garnish for various various meat and fish fish Polenta dishes. dishes. Polenta fritters -- See See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. Polenta fritters Thrushes or or otber other smaU polenta. GRIVES small birds birds with with polenta. cRrvEs À A LA LA Thrushes FoLENTA -' Prepare with cheese as as described above. above. POLENTA Prepare polenta polenta with Pour oven-proof dish, spreading spreading it in in aalayer Pour itit into into aa buttered buttered oven-proof layer thick. 33 cm. cm. (llinches) (1 inches) thick. With aid of of aa spoon dipped in as man manyy With the the aid in water indent as 'nests' (or other are thrushes thrushes (or other birds). 'nests' as as there there are birds). Sprinkle with grated oven and put one in in grated cheese. cheese. Half Half roast roast the the birds in the oyen each Sprinkle with butter and each little little cavity. cavity. Sprinkle with a a little !ittle melted butter finish with white finish cooking cooking in in the the oven. oyen. Dilute Dilute the pan pan juices juices with wine and pour pour round round the the dish. dish. wine and

POMPE or (Provence cake) orGIBASSIER GIBASSIER(Provence Traditionalcake cake)-- Traditional POMPE cake eaten in in Provence Provence at gros soupa at the thegros soupa on eaten onChristmas Christmas Eve. Eve.ItIt isis also called gibassier ('gibbous'), ('gibbous'), because called gibassier becauseof also of the the lumps lumps on its on its surface. surface. gros soupa The gros soupa isis the the meal precedes the meal which which precedes The the midnight midnight mass. As As the the fast fast entails entails abstinence abstinence from mass. from meat, meat, the the meal meal invariably consists consists of of Lenten Lenten dishes, dishes, such invariably ascod cod en such as e nrayte rayte or en oren brandade and and cardoons cardoons in incream. cream. brandade 'The dessert dessert isis by by no no means means the 'The the least least attraction attraction of of this this traditional meal and and consists consists mainly tradition al meal mainly of\ocally of locally manufactured manufactured nougat, dates, dates, and and -- above above ail pompe or nougat, all -- the gibassier, the pompe or gibassier, another local product, the local product, the whole whole washed another washed down down liberally liberatly with with the customary customary muUed mulled wine. wine. the 'Here isis the the recipe recipe for for this 'Here this cake: cake: 'Ingredients. 500 (18 oz.) g. (18 500 g. 'Ingredients. g. (18 (18 oz.) bread bread dough dough leaven, leaven, 500 500 g. oz.,2l cups) brown brown sugar, sugar, 22ke.(4f-1b.) oz., 2* cups) kg. (4 lb.) f1our, (6 flour, 66 eggs, eggs, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant i* cup) cup) best best oil tablespoons, oil and grated rind and finely finely grated rind of of 1I lemon and and 1I orange. orange. lemon 'Method. Spread Spread the the f10ur 'Method. flour on on aa board board in in aa circle, circle. make make aa well in in the the middle put into middle and and put weil into itit the the leaven leaven with with the the brown brown sugar, oil oil and and half half the the eggs. sugar, eggs. Mix Mix weil, well, incorporating incorporating the the f10ur flour little by by little. little. Knead Knead the little the dough dough weil well and and add add the the rest rest of of the the eggs one one by by one. one. This eggs This dough dough should quite soft. should be be quite soft. 'Leave to to ririse 'Leave se for for about about 66 hours hours in in aa warm warm temperature, temperature, then beat beat itit out, out, divide then divide into pieces of into pieces g. (7 (7 oz.), of about about 200 200 g. oz.), shape into into crowns crowns and put on shape and put on boards boards sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine bran. 'Keep in in aa warm place, as as the the dough dough takes aa long long time time to to . nse. rise. in aa lively lively oyen. 'Bake in oven. When ready, ready, take out of of the take out the oyen oven and moisten the surface surface of each cake with aa cloth dipped dipped in in aa mixture ofwater of water and orange-blossom mixture (A. Caillat.) orange-blossom water.' water.'(A. Caillat.)

POLONAISE dishes. POLONAISE (A (A LA) LA) - Method Method of of preparing preparing certain dishes. (See (See ASPARAGUS, ASPARAGUS, CAULIFLOWER.) CAULIFLOWER.)

POMPONNETTES POMPONNETTES -- Small Small preparations served served as as horshorsd'œuvre. Hot d' euvre. (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D' (EUVRE, H o t hors-d'œuvre.) hor s -d' euv re. )

POLYPODIUM. POLYPODIUM. polypoor POLYPODE -- A A species species of of edible ferns. ferns. See

PONT-L'EVtQUE PONT-L'ÉVÈQUE -- See CHEESE.

t

FERN. FERN.

POLYPORUS. POLYPORUS. porypone POLYPORE

A very very big big -- A

PONT-NEUF (P$tisserie) -- Line buttered tartlet tins PONT-NEUF (pâtisserie) tins with Puff pastry (see DOUGH). Fill with Frangipane Frangipane cream (see Puff (see CREAM) mixed mixed with with crushed macaroons. Put Put 22 thin strips CREAM) crushed macaroons. strips of puff pastry pastry criss-cross criss-cross fashion fashion on on each tartlet. Bake each tartlet. Bake in in aa moderate oven. oyen. When When ready, ready, temove remove from oyen moderate oven and sprinkle

species of of fungi

(reaching (reaching aa weight weight of of up up to 40 40 pounds), pounds), growing growing generally at the the foot foot of of old old oak oak trees trees and and on on the the ground. ground. These giant giant mushrooms mushrooms are are edible edible but but the the flesh f1esh is is rather rather tough. tough. They They are

found found mainly mainly in in Germany, Germany, Hungary, Hungary, Italy Italy and more more rarely, rarely,

with fine sugar. with

in France. in France.

POPE. cRTMTLLE GREMILLEFish of of the the perch perch family, family, sometimes sometimes called POPE. - Fish freshwater fish fish found in most most of the the rivers rivers of of ruff. It is a freshwater

POMEGRANATE. POMEGRANATE. cRENADE GRENADE -- Fruit Fruit of of the the common common pomegranate pomegranate tree tree which which is is believed believed to to be be of of North North African African origin. origin. ItIt isis used used widely widely in in France. France. Pomegranates Pomegranates can can be be eaten eaten raw raw like like other other fruit, fruit, but but generally juice only juice the generally itit isis the thejuice only which which isis used. used. From From this thisjuice the popular popular grenadine grenadine syrup syrup is is made. made. pomegranates Pomegranates are are also also used used in in the the preparation preparation of ofices ices and and jellies. jellies. AA type type of of alcoholic alcoholic drink drink isis also also made made from from this this fruit. fruit.

fiffi

POMEROL POMEROL -- Appellation Appellation contrillie contrôlée vineyard vineyard of ofthe the Gironde Gironde situated situated in in the the commune commune of ofthe the same same name name on on the the right right bank bank

Pope Pope

710 710

PORK PORK. poRc PORC -- Domestic Domestic pachyderm which is is not not usually referred to by this slaugbter. The The male is is tbis name until after slaughter. called called a boar, the female female a sow, the the castrated castrated animal is is called called fig or stag and the young animal animal is called piglet, piglet, porker porker or or sucking sucking pig. Pork Pork is fat and firm and has more red meat than white. It It only colour when only acquires acquîres this this colour when the the animal animal is is killed killed by by (16 per complete bleeding. It It is lacking lacking in in albuminoids albuminoids (16 per cent cent only) only) and is particularly indigestible because because itit contains contains such a high proportion nrr'nr' .. h ..... n of fats. For this reason pork is taboo for sufferers of hepatitis and is not recommended for hepatitis and for persons persons with intestinal poor digestions. digestions. intestinal troubles or poor principal breeds There are There are three three principal breeds of of pig pig which which have produced produced the the many many species which which exist in Europe: the Asiatic, Neapolitan Celtic. Neapolitan and Cel tic. has The Asiatic breed, with small straight, pointed ears, has The breed, witb ofsoft and been used for crosscross-breeding, breeding, as it produced n"'''I1111('",,<1 bacon ofsoft inferior quality. quality. placed The Neapolitan Neapolitan breed, breed, with pointed, horizontally horizontal1y placed has in the the open, open, has living in and living ears, without ears, without cross-breeding and retained its purity of strain. retained which formerly formerly wide, lop ears, wbicb The Celtic breed, with long, wîde, Tbe crossas a a result of crossBritish Isles, has, inhabited Gaul and the British inbabited bas, as regions of of in various regions breeding, undergone various changes in including the of species, including France. Today there is a great variety ofspecies, France. Bayonne, Bresse, Brittany, Bugey, following: Alsace, Anjou, Bayonne, Landes, LauraCraon, Corsican, Landes, Champagne, Charolais, Charolais, Craon, Champagne, guaise, Limousin, Limousin, Lorraine, Lorraine, Manche, Marche, Nevers, NorVend6e, etc. Picardy, Rouergue, Vendée, P6rigord, Picard mandy, Périgord, y, Rouergue, Among the different breeds, five can be singled out: Among saddle-back, and saddle-back, The Normandy breed, with aa lean body and Anjou breed, flesh; Craon Craon or or Anjou which gives superior quality fiesh; which the mainly in tbe Lorraine breed, raised rnainly raised in the Loire basin;; Lorraine prized for the Moselle, greatly prized and Moselle, dipartements of Muerthe and départements which quality of breed, which P6rigord breed, flesh and bacon; the the Périgord of its its fiesh and bacon; quality smell, sense of of smell, produces pigs pigs with with aa very highly developed sense produces pigs with aa truffies; the Bresse breed, black pigs used for finding truffies; used of the body. encircling the middle oftbe white band encircJing have been which have all of which cross-breeds, ail Among the the Eng1ish English cross-breeds, Among or yellowish is the the Yorkshire, Yorkshire, white or France, is introduced into France, hams. Other Other printhe famous famous harns. skinned pigs, which which produce the skinned Large White Ulster, Large cipal breeds of British pig include: include: Large GloucesBerkshire, GloucesBlack, Tamworth, Tamworth, Wessex Saddle-back, Saddle-back, Berkshire, Essex. Cumberland, Essex. Curly-coated, Cumberland, Old Spots, Spots, Lincoln Lincoln Curly-coated, ter Old itself flesh lends lends itself Its fiesh fresh or or cured. cured. Its Pork isis eaten eaten either either fresb Pork processes of of particularly to many other other processes smoking and and many to salting, salting, smoking n~M"',,I~rl\l pork butchery. pork (sausages). ANDOUILLES, ANDoUILLES, and andouillettes andouillettes (sausages). Pork andouilles andouilles and Pork poRc -- Big pork sa of the the made of Big pork sausages ANDouILLETTEs DE DE PORC usages made ANDOmLLETTES pig, cut and cut into into strips strips and the pig, stomach of large intestine of tbe intestine and and the the stornach large pork fat. salted These sa sausages are salted fat. These mixed with with Jardoons lardoons of of pork usages are mixed for aa long long time. time. be kept for and cao can be and in in Vire Vire and and in those made made in are those The most andouilles are most famous andouilles The into thin thin slices slices cut into as hors-d'œuvre, hors-d'euvre, cut Brittany. Tbey They are are eaten eaten as Brittany. like saveloys sausage. saveloys and and other other sausage. like first be be should first this they they should For this hot. For They can can also also be be served served bot. They grilled and and cool, tben then grilled water, left left to to cool, boiled in in slightly salted salted water, boiled vegetable. or other other vegetabJe. served with mashed potatoes or Nancy, Tours, Tours, Troyes, Nancy, come from from Troyes, The best amto~/illl?ttl?S andouilletteJ come Paris. Caen and and Paris. Strasbourg, Lyons, Lyons, Cambrai, Cambrai, Caen Strasbourg, grilled and served and served are grilled All these varieties of of andouillettes andouillettes are these varieties Ali put Before being being put vegetables. Before other vegetables. with masbed mashed potatoes or or other with and slightly and be cut cut sligbtly should be under under the the grill, the the andouillettes andouilletles should butter. brushed with melted brushed melted butter. lard. in butter butter or or lard. They can can also also be be fried fried in They Soak rr.dNlcs -- Soak or MÉNAGE ANDoUILLEs DE Home-made Home-made andouiUes. andouilles. ANDOmLLES Drain, dry dry on on aa wash weIl. pig's intestines well. Drain, pig's water and and wash intestines in in cold cold water put into with half half their their into aa bowl bowl witb and put cloth, cloth, cut cut into into thin thin strips strips and

France, France, especially in the the Seine and the the Moselle. The pikepikeperches percbes of ofmiddle western U.S.A. U.S.A. are are very very similar. similar. middle western be The The flesh fiesb is is quite quite delicate. delicate. All Ali the the recipes for perch may maybe of this this fish fish (see PERCH). It used in the preparation of used It is used used (matelotes). especially in fish stews stevrs (matelotes\. especially

Cornmon plant plant in cornfields, cornfields, the the -- Common petals of which wbich are used used to dye dye certain certain liquids. Iiquids. The The leaves, Ieaves, in petais of

POPPY. POPPY. coerJElrcor COQUELICOT

spite being slightly slightly narcotic, narcotic, are are sometimes sometimes used used as as a spite of being vegetable ve!!etablle like Iike spinach. spinach. The white is cultivated cu ltivated principally pnncipa.lIy for for the the extraction extraction white poppy is of poppy seed oil. The aromatic seeds were used in pastry-

making in times antiquity (they (they were were known known to to the times of antiquity Egyptians earlier than 1500 B.C.), B.e.), and and are still used used in many regions for for sprinkling sprinkling cakes cakes and bread. bread.

PORCELAIN. PORCELAIN. poncsrA.INre PORCELAINE - Fine earthenware. earthenware. It It owes its name to the cowrieo cowrie, or porcelain shell, which in old French or pourcellaine and andin was calledpourcelline called pourcelline or in Italian and Latin was porcellana or porcellina. cellina. or por two kinds of porcelain: porcelain' hard-paste hard-paste or Chinese Chinese There are are two porcelain or French porcelain. porce/ain and soft-paste soft-paste or Hard-paste porcelain dates back to the Han period, 206 B.e. Tbe period was was during the reign of Ch'eng Hua, B.C. The best period 1465-1488 From China Cbina the industry spread 1465-1488 (Ming dynasty). From to Japan in the sixteenth sixteenth century. time Chinese and Japanese J(1lfJ(1I.I"~," porcelain aroused F or aa long time For the adrnlfiatlcm the envy of European the admiration of connoisseurs and the potters. of degree of Soft-paste Soft-paste porcelain does not owe its name to the degree paste but to its weak resistance to high hardness of of the actual paste scratched temperature and to the softness of of its glaze, easily scr'at(;he:d probably due to aa Rouen earthenearthenby steel. steel. Its discovery is is probably ware maker by the name ofPoterat. of Poterat. A cent ury earlier, however, however, in 1585, a first attempt, soon to century be At the the end end of the in Florence. At be abandoned, was was made made in seventeenth century the first first pottery works producing softthe paste porcelain porcelain was at Saint-Cloud. In tbe was established at up in in Paris, elg~tlee[lth sprang up establishments sprang eighteenth century rival rival establisbments Lille, Chantilly and, finally, under under the patronage of Madame de which in in 1753 Vincennes, wbich XV, at at Vincennes, de Pompadour Pompadour and and Louis XV, became 1756 it was transferred to the Royal pottery works. In 1756 became tbe Sèvres Sdvres where it is active active to this day. to This small small workshop, in which Orry and Fuloy were able to establish themselves, thanks to the patronage of Madame de Pomrladour. produced far achieved than were acbieved Pompadour, nrf'l,i",'",ti far better results than competition before in spite of the the comI>etlt!clll before that that in France or abroad, in porcelain has set up by Meissen in hard-paste porce:Jai.n in Saxony, Saxony, where lla.1U-'fJa~l'clay been discovery of kaolin clay been made since 1709, following the discovery since 1709, problem of deposits of manufacturing manufacturing The problem deposits in in the the region. region. The had porcelain similar and Japan, Japan, which had that made made in China and similar to tbat potters, was and solved, and for was solved, for so the minds of potters, so long occupied occupied the that umerous potteries potteries in in Germany. that period saw the rise rise of of nnumerous saw the Austria, Holland, in Austria, established in Potteries were were also also established kaolin Denmark, Italy. In ln 1776, 1776, kaolin and Italy. Denmark, Russia, Russia, Switzerland Switzerland and deposits Alengon, then then at at SaintSaintdeposits were were found in in France, France, first at at Alençon, yYrieux, rieux, near to began to was tben then that that Sèvres Sdvres began near Limoges. 1Itt was modify were opened opened ail all over over modify its its production and and potteries were France, places. France, in in Limoges, Paris, Paris, and other other places. Tbe but now now time but The pottery industry was neglected for for aa time was neglected porcelain isis once Sdvres The Sèvres in favour. favour. The beautiful porcelain once again again in porcelain porcelain factory. has laboratories, has workshops and and laboratories, its workshops factory, witb with its process made in the manufacturing process made important important improvements improvements in the manufacturing and the porcelain. porcelain. and the decoration of ofthe the decoration '-J'-l I1JUU V •

PORCHERONS (AUX)PORCHERONS (AUX) BYGONE YS. BYGONE DA DAYS.

See OF RESTAURANTS OF See RESTAURANTS

ponc-fpIc -- Animal PORCUPINE. fat flesh flesh isis rather fat Animal whose whose rather PORCUPINE. PORC-ÉPIC good good to young. to eat, eat, especially when young. especially when 711 7lr

PORK PORK weight of of lean lean bacon, bacon, eut cut into into very pieces. Add very small glass small pieces. Add 1I glass weight white wine wine and and chopped chopped onion, onion, shallot parsley. Season shallot and and parsley. Season white pepper and with salt, salt, pepper and spices, spices, mix mix weil well and leave to and leave to marinate marinate in in with this seasoning seasoning for for several several hours. pig's intestines hours. Fill Fill the the pig's intestines with with this this mixture. mixture. this Cook and finish off and finish off as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Nancy Nancy Cook andouilles. andouilles. Nancy andouilles. andouilles. ANDOUILLES ANDouTLLEs DE DE NANCY g. (1 (lti NANcy -- Soak Soak 750 750 g. Nancy pork belly lb.) pork belly and g. (li (l+ lb.) and 750 750 g. lb.) calfs calfs mesentery mesentery in in cold cold lb.) wat€r. Wash Wash them them carefully carefully and and cook cook in in salted salted water water for for 22 water. hours. Drain, Drain, rinse rinse in in cold cold water, water, dry dry on on aa c10th cloth and and cut cut into into hours. very small pieces. 1 very small pieces. Put into into aa bowl, bowl, season season with with salt, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, Put moisten with pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (~ scant cup) white wine cup) white wine and and add add 100 100 $ pint, moisten g. (4 (4 oz., o2.,2 cups) chopped chopped mushrooms mushrooms lightly lightly fried fried in in butter butter g. 2 cups) with chopped chopped onion, onion, shallot parsley. Chopped shallot and and parsley. Chopped truffies truffies with can also also be be added. added. can pig's intestines, Fill pig's intestines, thoroughly thoroughly soaked soaked and and washed, washed, with with Fil! this mixture. mixture. Form Form the the andouilles andouilles by by twisting twisting the the intestine intestine at at this

intervals of (6 to of i15 to 20 20 cm. cm. (6 to 88 inches). inches). Prick Prick the the andouilles andouilles intervals 5 to with aa big big needle plunge them needle and pan ofboiling and plunge into aa pan them into of boiling water. water. with Season with with salt, salt, and and add add sliced sliced onions onions and and carrots, carrots, 22 cloves cloves Season garlic and good bouquet and aa good garnt (q.v.). (q.v.). bouquet garni garlic As soon soon as as boiling boiling isis established, pan to established, draw to the draw the the pan the side side of of As the stove, stove, cover, gently for cover, and and simmer simmer very very gently for 22 hours. hours. the Take the pan off the pan off the the ststove and leave leave the in the the andouilles andouilles in the Take ove and liquid in in which which they they were were cooked quite cold. cooked until until almost almost quite cold. liquid put in Drain, put in aa shallow shallow baking pan, cover baking pan, put cover with witha board, put Drain, a board, weight on on top top and and leave leave in in aa cool place until quite cold. cool place until quite cold. aa weight To serve, serve, slash slash the the andouilles andouilles with with aa few few very very light light ininTo grill and cisions, grill and serve potatoes. serve with with mashed mashed potatoes. cisions, poRc -pork andouillettes. Fine pork andouillettes. ANDOUILLETTES ANDoUTLLETTEs FINES FrNEs DE DE PORC Fine Cook aa calfs calfs mesentery, mesenteryo cut into big pieces, and cut into big square square pieces, and half half Cook its weight weight of of lean lean bacon, (lt pints, bacon, similarly pints, similarly cut, cut, in in 1I litre litre (li its generous quart) quart) meat meat stock, stock, to which which 1I onion onion studded studded with with aa generous clove and good bouquet and aa good garni (q.v.) (q.v.) have bouquet garni have been been added. added. clove Season and and bring bring to to the the boil. boil. Cover Cover with with aa lid lid and and simmer simmer Season gently for very gently for about about 22 hours. hours. very

1

1

1

1

Knuckf e Knuckle

tif

le

t

Hind loin Elode bone

Hond

Fore f oin

Spore rib English Englishcuts cu tsofpork of pork

712 712

Head

Heod

PORK TRTSH FRESH P(}RI( PORK (UIS CUTS

sil(l|(tD SMOKED P0Rt( PORK CUTS CUTS Hom slice

(contre cut)

Sullerfly pork thop

Bokod hom

home style

Pork tondcrloin

llcm butt (double slice)

Pork loin roosl

Bocon piece

Boneless

Pork sporeribs

shouldcr butt

Shoulder slite

Shodsd areas oroos represent roprosont Shaded ports trimmed off olf parts tuts in making moking cuts in

Shouldsr butt

Picnic shoulder

Jowl bult

Pork hocfr Arnerican cuts cuts of ofpork American pork

grill ('sur ('snr des des charbons ardents' i.e. on on glowing co coals) ardents',, i.e. grill ais) today the,neck end, as slices of pork cut from the' only applies to thin slices neck end, grilled on well as hot as lean lean parts of top of rump, which which are are grilled on hot well coals. The term term carbonades also applies to to thin thin slices slices of of pork also applies The (see BEEF). of beef àd la laflamande braised like Carbonades ofbeef flamande (see generally dipped in Grilled carbonades of pork, which are generally butter and and breadcrumbs before cooking, cooking, and and sautéed saut6ed carrecommended all the garnishes recommended served with ail bonades, can be se~ved for veal or pork chops. ponc - Cut taken from the back of of pork. ÉCHINE fcrilNe DE of oe PORCChine ofpork. part of the animal, animal, which which includes includes part of the the backbone backbone and and the surrounding flesh flesh.. In sorne France it is is also called some regions of France called surrounding dchinie and and épinée. ipinie. The The term is is principally used used to to de describe échinée scribe ofthe chine next to the neck. that part of the chine preparation given given for loin and All the methods methods of and fillet of of of preparation Ali pork are suitable suitable for chine. chine. This cut cut is is also used used for ma making king stews. stews. grilled or cutting it into slices, itit can be grilled or sautéed saut6ed in the After cutting

Drain the meats and chop coarsely, coarsely, put into aa bowl, bowl, and g. (4 OZ., add 100 g. add o2.,22 cups) chopped mushrooms, lightly fried parsley, and bound with aa ions, shallots with chopped chopped on shallots and parsley, onions, tablespoons concentrated stock. few tablespoons well. Stuff Add 6 raw egg yolks and mix an all the ingredients wei\. well soaked this mixture into pig's intestines intestines which have been weil and washed, washed, and into 10-cm. lO-cm. (4-in.) and and tie tie the the andouillettes andouillettes into pieces. Cook preceding in the the preceding pieces. Cook and off as as described described in finish off and finish recipes. poRc -- This is Pig's blood. SANG DE PORC is almost solely used used for sANc DE making black It can be used used for for clarifying making black puddings. It can also also be jellies, and as as an element of Liaison liaison for red wine sauces of the civet type. civettyw. porrRrNE DE poRc -- This part of Breast of of the animal animal of pork. POITRINE DE PORC is used used fresh fresh for can also also be be boned boned and and ragofrts.It is king ragoûts. It can for ma making after sorne grilled, after some of of the fat has been removed. provides In its vides bacon. state it pro its salted salted or smoked state poRc -- The pork. CARBONADES The word word Carbonades of of pork. cARBoNADBs DE DE PORC on aa carbonades, which in the past applied carbonades,which applied to ail all meat cooked cooked on 713 713

PORK

Pied

Jo mbonneou

File

t

Poilrine

Corré

Poletf e

(6te

Plot de rOtes of pork French cuts ofpork

crushed Dilute the pan juices with white wine, add aa few few crushed SAUCE), moisten with Demi-glace juniper berries, berries, rnoisten Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), strain, and pour over the chops. ponc ÀA LA Pork chops L,c, chops ài la bayonnaise. CÔTES cOrrs on Pork la bayonnaise. DE PORC garlic into of the BAyoNNAIsE -- Insert slivers of of garlic into the meaty BAYONNAISE rneaty part oftbe chops. Season Season with with salt, pepper, thyme and bay cbops. pepper, powdered thyrne them to leaf, sprinkle with oil and aa dash of vinegar. Leave thern marinate in this seasoning for 1I hour. Sauté Saut6 briskly rnarinate briskly in lard in an earthenware dish. When the chops are browned on both an surround with new sides, surround new potatoes tossed in lard, and sliced cipes or rnushroorns mushrooms sautéed saut6ed in oil. Finish cooking cooking everything cèpes parsley. with chopped together in the oyen. oven. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. poRc Braised pork chops with various c6rns DE PORC Braised various garnishes. CÔTES sRAtsf,ss -- Cut the chops a little on the thick side. Braise and BRAISÉES garnish thern ( see VEAL). VEAL ). them in the sarne same way as as Veal chops (see garnish poRc CHARCUTIÈRE Pork chops chops charcutière. charcutiire. CÔTES c6res DE on PORC cHARcuuiinr -- This Pork ready for use in pork butchers' shops, is dish, which is found ready prepared restaurants as follows: prepared in restaurants

same All methods sa me way as pork chops. Ali preparing chops can methods of of preparing Prepared in this way and grilled they are be applied to chine. Prepared usually called called carbonades. carbonades. usually can be half or fully salted and in this form Chine of pork can This eut ingredientofof poties andestouffades. cut is not potées and estouffades. This used as an ingredient marketed in the U.S.A. rnarketed poRc À chops à i l'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. CÔTES r'ArslcIrNNE -Pork chops c6res DE PORC A L'ALSACIENNE Season the chops and sauté saut6 thern them in butter or lard, or braise Season them. Arrange them rniddle thern. thern in aa turban on on aa dish. Fill the middle (q.v.) piled piled up into aa dorne, with sauerkraut (q.v.) dome, and top with poached Strasbourg sausages. Garnish the dish with boiled poached potatoes. Pour over the chops chops sorne some of pan juices, potatoes. of the diluted pan or, if the are braised, sorne some of the or, the chops are the strained braising liquor. poRc À chops à i l'ardennaise. l'ardennaise. CÔTES n L'ARDENNAISEPork chops cOrns DE PORC L'eRDrNNlrse Saut6 the chops in butter or lard. lard. Arrange in a turban on a Sauté potatoes sautéed saut6ed in butter butter and mixed rnixed with diced, dish. Put in potatoes bacon, and chopped chopped onion fried bacon, onion lightly fried in butter.

714

PORK Flatten Flatten the the chops chops slightly, slightly, season, season, coat coat with with melted butter, dip in breadcrumbs and and grill gently. gently. Arrange in a middle of of the dish with mashed potatoes and crown, fill the middle crown, serve with with Charcutidre Charcutière sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) to to which shredded shredded serve gherkins gherkins are are added. added. charcutière are fried in lard and simmered simmered in Pork chops charcutiire charcutière sauce to which some sorne sliced gherkins have been been charcutiire added. added. saurfes pork chops chops with with garnish. gamisb. cOTEs CÔTES DE DE PoRc PORC SAUTÉES Fried pork Season GARNIES - Trim and lightly lightly flatten 4 loin pork pork chops. chops. Season cARNIES which 1I and cook in aa saut6 sauté pan pan in which salt and and pepper and with salt tablespoon butter butter or or lard lard has been been heated. tablespoon well on both Cook the chops chops on a lively lively heat. Brown Brown weil both sides. Cook remove from the pan, surround with When they are cooked, remove the pan juices recipe and pour the the garnish indicated in the recipe through a strained through over, diluted diluted as as indicated in the recipe and strained over, sieve or strainer. fine sieve poRc.A. ll GASCONNE clscoNun -Pork chops chops ià la gasconne. gasconne. CÔTES À LA Pork c6rss DE PORC Marinate the pork chops as described Marinate described in the recipe for Pork goose fat, quickly in butter chops dlabayonnaise. à la bayonnaise. Fry Fry them them quickly butter or goose chops to stiffen them. cloves of garlic for each Put 6 peeled and slightly slightly blanched blanched cloyes low heat. chop the pan. finish cooking on pan. Coyer on low and finish chop into the Cover and stoned and When the the chops nearly cooked, add 88 stoned When are nearly cooked, add chops are blanched olives per chop. Arrange the chops in a crown and pan juices put the garnish Dilute the panjuices garnish in the middle of of the dish. Dilute with iI glass white wine, add a few tablespoons tablespoons thickened veal with pour over stock, the chops. and pour over the stock, boil boil for for aa few few moments, moments, and Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. poRc GRILLÉES Grilled loin Season loin DE PORC cRILLETs -- Season Grined pork chops. chops. CÔTES cOrES DE

apple rings chops garnished with apple Grilled pork chops

melted butter, pepper, brush them with melted chops with salt salt and and pepper, chops under a moderate moderate grill. oil or lard and cook under Arrange on a dish and garnish with watercress. garnish of plain, or with aa garnish of served plain, chops are served Grilled pork chops potatoes. vegetables, most often with mashed potatoes. poRc ÀA LA rl MILANAISE mrlNnsr -DE PORC la milanaise. CÔTES cOTES DE Pork chops ài la coat and pepper, coat salt and flat, season season with salt Beat loin pork chops fiat, in the the as described in and proceed as with egg egg and and breadcrumbs and with (see VEAL). for Veal Veal chops àd la milanaise (see recipe for poRc PILLEVERJUS IILLEYERJUS -Pork chops DB PORC Pilleverjus. CÔTES cOTEs DE chops Pilleverjus. Pork with salt salt them with Flatten slightly loin chops. chops. Season Season them slightly and and trim trim loin Flatten and pepper.

(Robert Carrier) Pork Carrier) Pork chops chops charcutière charcutidre (Robert

715 715

PORK PORK Fry in in lard. lard. When When both both sides sides are arewell well browned, putinto browned, put into the the Fry pan (for (for 44chops) chops) 44 tablespoons ({cup) tablespoons (t cup) finely finelychopped chopped onion, onion, pan three-quarters cooked. Add aabouquet cooked. Add (q.v.), coyer garni (g.v.), bouquet garni coverthe the three-guarters pan and and cook cook on on low low heat heat for for 35 35minutes. minutes. pan young cabbage heart Shred aayoungcabbage (q.v.) and heartinto into ajulienne a julienne(g.v.) cook andcook Shred covered, in in butter butter or possible. As or lard, lard, as asslowly slowlyas Assoon aspossible. asthe the soonas covered, cabbage isis done, moisten itit with done, moisten with cream cream and and simmer for aafew few simmer for cabbage moments, stirring stirring ail all the the time. time. moments, Arrange the the chops julienne. chops on foundation of on aa foundation of the thecabbage cabbagejulienne. Arrange Garnish with potatoes. with boiled boiled potatoes. Garnish Dilute the pan juices with the panjuices good tablespoon with 1I good tablespoon vinegar, vinegar,add add44 Dilute (* cup) tablespoons (t cup) stock pour over stock and and pour over the the chops. chops. tablespoons poRcSAUCE Pork chops chops witb with Robert Robert sauce. sauce. CÔTES cOrES DE DE PORC sAUcE ROBERT RoBERT Pork Season and grill the and grill the chops. chops. Serve (see Serve with with Robert Robert sauce sauce (see -- Season SAUCE) and potatoes. and mashed mashed potatoes. SAUCE) Or; Sauté Saut6 the the chops chops in in butter butter or or lard. lard. When When they they are are halfhalfOr: put into cooked, put pan (for (for 44 chops) into the the sauté (4 oz., saute pan g. (4 chops) 100 100 g. oz., 1I cooked, cup) finely finely chopped chopped white white onions. onions. cup) Drain the the chops chops and and arrange arrange them pan them on dish. Dilute Dilute the on aa dish. the pan Drain juices with (t pint, pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (t scant cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Boil Boil down down juices almost completely. (| pint, completely. Add Add 33 dl. pint, li dl. (1 lf cups) cups) Demi-glace Demi-glace almost (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Boil Boil for for 55 mjnutes. minutes. Remove Remove from from the the sauce heat, add pinch of add aa pinch ofsugar good teaspoon and 11 good teaspoon mustard mustard to to heat, sugar and the sauce, sauce, mix, pour over mix, and and pour over the the chops. chops. the In aa home home kitchen, juices with kitchen, dilute dilute the pan juices the pan with white white wine, wine, ln add sorne some meat meat stock, stock, boil boil for for aa few few minutes, minutes, bind bind with with 1I add tablespoon butter butter kneaded kneaded with with flour, flour, and and add add 1I or or 22 tablespoon tablespoons tomato pur6e. tomato purée. tablespoons Alternatively, proceed proceed as as follows: follows : Alternatively, Cook the the chops chops and and rem remove pan. Into from the them from the pan. Into the the Cook ove them same butter put 1I or butter put or 22 tablespoons tablespoons flour, flour, mix, mix, and and lightly lightly same cook. Moisten Moisten with with white white wine wine and and stock, stock, blend blend weil, well, and and cook. cook for for aa few few minutes. minutes. cook poRc ÀA LA Pork chops chops à i la la vosgienne. vosgienne. CÔTES c6rss DE DE PORC r,,c, VOSGIENNEvoscrsNNE Pork Saut6 the the chops chops in in lard lard or or butter. butter. When When half half done done add add 1I Sauté tablespoon (l tableonion lightly lightly fried fried in in butter (1 tablespoon chopped onion per chop). spoon per chop). Finish cooking cooking together on gentle heat. spoon Arrange the chops in in aa crown. crown. Fill Fill the middle of the the dish Arrange the with stoned mirabelles (plums), mirabelles (plu ms), cooked without sugar. with stoned Dilute with vinegar and and white white wine, wine, add add Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with some concentrated sorne concentrated veal stock and pour over the chops. poRc -- Crépinettes Pork cnfprNETTEs DE Cripinettes or Pork cr6pinettes. crépinettes. CRÉPINETTES DE PORC small are made (see small flat flat sausages sausages are made of of Fine Fine pork forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) herbes and aid, FORCEMEATS) mixed mixed with with chopped fnes fines herbes flavoured flavoured with with brandv. brandy. The 90 or 100 e.e, to 4-oz.) 4-oz.) The forcemeat forcemeat is is divided divided into into 90 or 100 g. (3-!- to pieces, caul,l, each of of which which is is wrapped wrapped in in a a piece piece of pig's pig's cau pieces, each previously previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water, water, and and moulded moulded into into a rectangular rectangular shape. shape. The The cripinettes crépinettes arc are coated with butter and and freshly sifted breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, sprinkled sprinkled with with melted melted butter butter and and grilled grilled gently. Gilled aretsually crépinettes are usually served served with with mashed mashed potatoes Grilled cripinettes but vegetableJ dressed but they they can also be be served with various variousvegetables with with butter. butter. Cinderella Cinderella pork pork cr6pinettes. crépinettes. cRfprNETTEs CRÉPINETTES DE DE poRc PORC cENDRILLoN fine truffied CENDRILLON -- These These cripinettes crépinettes are are made made of offine truffted pork forcemeat. pig's feet, forcemeat. Put Put I1good good tablespoon tabJespoon salpicon(q.v.) salpicon (g.v.) of ofpig's mixed and mushrooms mushrooms cut cut into into dice and bound bound mixed with with truffies trufftes and with with greatly greatly concentrated concentrated veal veal stock, stock, in the the middle middle of of each cripinette. crépine tte. Cinderella Cinderella crdpinettes crépinettes are are grilled grilled and and served served with with pirigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and mashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. Pork Pork fat. fat. LARD LARD -- The The adipose adipose tissue tissue of of the the pig. pig. In In French, French, the the term term lard,whichis lard, which is sometimes sometimes used used of of fat fat of of animals animaIs other other than than pig, pig, usually usually means means fresh fresh raw raw pork pork fat. fat. The The French French equivalent eguivalent of ofthe the English English term'lard'is term 'lard' is saindoux. saindoux. Fillet FiUet (U.S. (U.S. Tenderloin) Tenderloin) of of pork. pork. FrLEr FILET DE DE poRc PORC -- The The fillet fillet (tenderloin) ofpork pork isis the the part part of ofthe the animal animal from from the the first first ribs ribs (tenderloin) of

pork crépinettes Cinderella pork cr6pinettes Cinderella

to the the leg. part which leg. ItIt isis the the part which inin the to thecase caseof ofveal veal or ormutton muttonisis called saddle. saddle. called pig's back, The pig's generally cut back, or or saddle, saddle, isisgenerally The cut ininhalf, half, lengthlengthways. The pork can The fillet fillet of prepared ininany of pork can be be prepared ways. anyway waysuitable suitable for the the loin. loin. Escalopes Escalopes and and noisettes, noisettes, as for asweil wellasfilets asfilets mignons, mignons, are cut cut from from boned pork, and boned fillets fillets of preparedinin any of pork, are and prepared any way way suitable for chops. chops. Roast Roast or pot-roasted fillet or pot-roasted sui table for fillet of pork isis of pork often referred referred to in French French as to in as longe. often longe. pruclDELLEs DE poRc -- Prepare, Pork fricadeUes. fricadelles. FRICADELLES Pork Prepare, using DE PORC using pork meat, meat, in in the the same same way pork way as as Fricadelles Fricadelles ofbeef(see of beef (see BEEF). BEEF). gelatine. COLLE Pork gelatine. (61 lb.) Pork coLLE DE DE COUENNEScor.rENNEs - Soak Soak 33 kg. kg. (&t lb.) fresh fresh pork skins skins in in cold cold water. water. Put pork Put them them in in aa casserole, casserole, coyer with cover with water, bring bring to to the water, the boil boil and and drain. drain. Put Put under under the cold tap, tap, the cold scrape and put them and wash wash them; scrape them; put them back in the back in the casserole, casserole, coyer cover with water. water. Boil, Boil, skim with skim and and simmer simmer for for 66 or hours, skimming or 88 hours, skimming often. often. Pass the the contents contents of pan through the pan Pass ofthe through aa strainer strainer into into aa basin. basin. Leave to to cool. cool. When Leave When itit isis cold cold and and has has set, remove ail fat from from set, remove all fat surface and gelatine with the surface and rub rub the the gelatine with aa cloth cloth dipped dipped in in boiling boiling water, so so as as to to rem remove ove every water, every trace trace of of fat. fat. gelatine to Add this gelatine Y). (see JELL prepared stock to the the prepared stock (see JELLY). Ham.r,lMBoN*See Ham. JAMBON - See HAM. HAM. Hand ofpork. of pork. JAMBONNEAU Hand r.llrnor.rNeau -- Cook Cook in in the the same same way way as ham as harn (see HAM, HAM, Salted (see Salted and and smoked smoked ham) ham\ until until the flesh cornes the flesh comes away from from the away the bones. bones. Reshape itit by by wrapping wrapping tightly tightly in in aa cloth, leave leave to cloth, to cool cool in in the the liguid liquid itit was grease was cooked cooked in, in, grease slightly and and roll in breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. poRc -- Prepare Pork basb. hash. HACHIS (see HAcHrs DE DE PORC Prepare like like Beef hash has& (see BEEF), using left-over pieces of pork. pork. poRc -- This (brarvn or bead Potted Potted bead head (brawn head cheese). HURE DE DE PORC This is is cheese). HURE generally sold in in pork butchers' shops ready ready for for the table. It table. It used to be made in the country. Potted Potted bead (old recipe). head (brawn or bead head cbeese) pistache (old i la pistacbe cheese) à plsrAcrrE -- Clean and scrape a pig's head, remove HURE À A LA PISTACHE the tongue, brains and ail the throat and tongue, brains all the fat part of ofthe and cut cut off off the ears. head, ears gue and the ears. Steep Steep the the head, ears and and ton tongue and, 22 calves' calves' ton gues in brine for 3 or 4 days. Drain. Wrap the tongues the head in in aa cloth and put into aa braising pan, together with the ears, cloth ears, also wrapped, and wrapped, gently in and cook (see in the cook gently the usuaJ usual manner manner (see METHODS, Braising CULINARY METHODS, Braising of of meat) meat) for for 44 or or 55 ton gues 2 hours later. Take off the best piece hours. Add the tongues offthe skjn and spread it on a napkin. napkin. Cut the fleshy part of the of skin strips, rejecting ail pieces tinged with blood. head into long strips, all pieces meat with four spices spices (g.v.) Sprinkle this this meat (q.v.) and and chopped shallots. Lay Lay out out these these strips, strips, mixing rnixing the the various meats meats as shallots. as weil well Scatter aa few pistachio pistachio nuts here and and there. there. Fold possible. Scatter as possible. pieces, wrap tightly in aa napkin, tying tying it the skin over these pieces, it the braising braising securely with string. string. Put back to cook. Bring the to the the boil, boil, then then simmer. simmer. One One hour hour later, drain, remove remove liguid to liquid the contents of the the napkin into into a a brawn brawn string, and put the rnould, with with a weight on top. top. Press down well, weil, leave leave until until mould, guite cold. cold. quite Potted head bead (brawn (brawn or or head head cheese) cbeese) with witb trufles. truffles. HURE HURE DE DE Potted 716

PORK

Potted head, head, large Lyon Lyon potted potted head head in centre; centre; on on either either side small Paris potted potted heads, heads, whole whole and and cut (C har cuter ie C he dev ille. (Charcurerie Chèdeville. Phot. PMI. Larousse) Larousse)

in the the middle. Put it into a braising braising pan and cover with cold cald water. Bring Bring to the the boil, then then simmer simmer for 33 hours. The zampino zampino is served hot, with potato or lentil pur6e. purée. It can also be served served cold, cold, cut in slices slices like like sausage.' sausage. Pig's liver. üver. FoIE FOIE DE DE FoRc PORC - All Ali recipes for calfs liver are suitable suitable for for pig's pig's liver, liver, though though it it is is mainly mainly used used as as an ingredient ingredient in stuffings. stuffings. (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or or VARIETY V ARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Pig's liver with mustard. rolr FOIE DE DE FoRc PORC A À rl LA uour,lRDE MOUTARDE Lard a a pig's pig's liver and and daub daub it it generously with with mustard. Sprinkle with with parsley and and chopped garlic and and bake bake in a covered covered casserole casserole with butter. butter. Three-quarters Three-quarters of of an hour hour in a gentle gentle oven oven should be be enough. enough. Remove Remove the the liver and place place on a wann warm serving serving plate. Slice Slice juices in it. it. Dilute Dilute the thejuices in the the casserole casserole with I1 tablespoon tablespoon mustard and and,22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar. Pour this concentrated centrated sauce sauce over over the the sliced sliced liver. liver. Serve Potato Polalo galettes ga/elles (see GALETTE) as as an accompaniSerue ment. ment. (Recipe (Recipe of Madame Madame Simone Nouyrigat, Nouyrigat, of the the Pierre Traiteur restaurant.) Traiteur restaurant.) Loin Loin of of pork. pork. cmnf CARRÉ DE DE FoRc PORC -- This cut can be roasted or pot-roasted. pot-roasted. It It is is usually usually accompanied by its its own juices, juices, suitably suitably diluted, diluted, and and most most often often with a garnish of of potatoes, potatoes, especially especially mashed mashed potatoes, potatoes, or or aa pur6e purée of of dried dried vegetables, vegetables, or fresh fresh braised braised vegetables vegetables (celery, (celery, chicory, chicory, endive, endive, lettuce, lettuce, etc.). ItIt isis advisable before before roasting roasting or pot-roasting pot-roasting a loin of pork, as as well weil as as all aH other other pork pork joints joints cooked cooked in in the the same same way, way, to to season season itit several several hours hours before before cooking cooking with with salt salt mixed mixed with with powdered powdered thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Seasoned Seasoned thus thus in advance, ad vance, the the flavour flavour of of fresh fresh pork pork is is rendered rendered more more delicious. delicious. pork ià I'alsacienne. Loin of ofpork l'alsacienne. cARRi CARRÉ DE DE ponc PORC AÀ r'.l,ls.l,crENNE L'ALSACIENNELoin pork in Season the the loin loin of ofpork in advance advance and and cook cook in in the the oven oven until Season three-quarters done. done. three-quarters

FoRc PORC Aux AUX TRUFFES TRUFFES - As above, adding adding raw truffies truffies cut into inta strips. strips. Leg Leg of of pork pork (ham). (barn). JAMBoN JAMBON -- French French and imported hams are are listed listed under the the entry entry entitled entitled HAM. HAM. Leg Leg of of pork can be be eaten eaten fresh, fresh, salted salted or or smoked. smoked. Braised Braised fresh fresh leg leg of of pork. pork. JAMBoN JAMBON DE DE poRc PORC rnArs FRAIS nn,clsf BRAISÉ --

This This joint joint is is cooked cooked as as described described under under CULINARY CULINAR y

METHODS METHODS,, Pot-roasting, Pot-roasting, allowing allowing 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes minutes cooking cooking time time per per 500 500 g. (per (per pound) pound) plus plus 20 20 minutes. minutes. pork can Fresh Fresh braised braised leg leg of ofpork can be be accompanied accompanied by by any any of of the the garnishes garnishes recommended recommended for for braised braised meat. meat. The The braising braising liquor liquor is is boiled boiled down, down, and and the the surplus surplus fat fat removed. removed. Strain Strain and and pour over over the the leg. leg. A A few hours hours before before putting putting fresh fresh leg leg of pork pork to braise, braise, season season it it with with salt flavour flavoured flavoured with powdered powdered thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Rorstleg Roast leg of of pork. pork. r,uranoN JAMBON DE DE poRc PORC FRArs FRAIS ROTI RÔTI -- Trim Trim the the leg leg of of pork, pork, removing removing the the bone bone up up to to the the knuckle, knuckle, and and skin skin it. it. A few few hours hours before before roasting roasting the the leg leg cover cover itit with with salt. salt. Wipe Wipe and and roast roast in in the the oven, oven, or or on on aa spit spit (see (see CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking cooking times times for for roasts). roaSlS). Serve Serve the the leg leg with with the the pan pan juices juices diluted diluted with with white white wine wine or or Madeira. Any Any of the the garnishes garnishes recommended recommended for for roast roast meat meat can can be be used. used. Stufied StuJJed pig's pig's leg leg or Zampino Zarnpino Qtalian (Italian cookery). cookery). JAMBE JAMBE DE DE poRc PORC FARcrE, FARCIE, zAMprNo ZAMPINO -- Soak Soak the the leg leg in in cold cold water water for for 33 hours hours and and scrape scrape the the skin skin thoroughly. thoroughly. Prick Prick in in aa few few places places with with aa trussing trussing needle. needle. Wrap Wrap in in aa fine fine cloth c\oth and and tie tie at at both both ends ends and and

Roast leg legofpork of pork Roast

Zampino (stuffed (stuffed pig's pig's leg) leg) (Zarozs.re) (Larousse) Zampino

717 717

PORK Finish cooking (q.v.) prepared cooking with with sauerkraut sauerkraut (q.v.) preparedseparately separately Finish in the garnish oflean the usual usual manner manner and and with with aagarnish of leansmoked smoked bacon, bacon, in Strasbourg sausages. sausages. Strasbourg Drain the the loin. loin. Arrange Arrange on on aa large large oval-shaped oval-shaped dish. dish. Drain Garnish at at the the two two ends ends with with sauerkraut, sauerkraut,surround svrrotnd with with Garnish sausages and and bacon bacon cut cut in in rectangles, rectangles, and and serve servewith with boiled boiled sausages potatoes. potatoes. pork àd l'alsacienne Loin of of pork l'alsacienne can be made can also also be made by by roasting roasting or or Loin pot-roasting the the loin loin and and serving serving itit surrounded surrounded with with sauersauerpot-roasting juices left kraut. Pour Pour over pan juices over the the pan left over over from from roasting. roasting. kraut. poRc ÀA LA pork ài la Loin of of pork la bonne bonne femme. femme. CARRÉ cannf DE DE PORC r.a BONNE eoNNe Loin FEMIm -- Season pork in Season the the loin loin of of pork in ad put itit into advance into an an and put FEMME vance and earthenware dish dish in in which which several several tablespoons tablespoons of butter or or of butter earthenware lard have have been been heated. heated. lard Roast the the loin loin in in the the oyen oven until until half half done, done, browning browning weil. well. Roast Put into into the pan, for the roasting roasting pan, (2* for aa loin loin weighing weighing about kg. (2i about 1I kg. Put g. (18 (18 oz., lb.), 500 500 g. potatoes cut oz., 33 cups) cups) potatoes cut to like large look like to look large lb.), quarters, and olives or or into into quarters, and 24 24 small small onions, onions, fried fried in in butter butter or or olives lard. Season garnish, add Season the the garnish, garni (q.v.) (q.v.) and add aa bouquet bouquet garni and finish finish lard. cooking together together in the oyen, in the basting frequently. oven, basting frequently. Take Take out out of of cooking the oyen, oven, sprinkle parsley and sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley and serve serve in in the the same same the dish in in whiéh whiih itit was was cooked. cooked. dish poRc ÀA LA Loin of pork àAr la of pork la boulangère. boulangire. CARRÉ c,mnf DE DE PORC LA Loin sourA,r,.rciRE -- Trim Trim the loin pork and loin of proceed as of pork and proceed as described described BOULANGÈRE in the recipe for for Shoulder (see LAMB). Shoulder oflamb la boulangère of lamb àd la boulangire (see LAMB). in pork with Loin of pork green cabbage, with green cabbage, or or with with Brussels Brussels sprouts. sprouts. Loin

Roast loin loinof Roast pork ofpork

Roast the putting the Roast loin in in the the loin garlic c10ves the oyen, oven, putting the garlic cloves into into the the pan. Arrange roasting pan. roasting Arrange on pour over on aa serving serving dish dish and and pour over the the juices. pan juices. pan Roast loin Roast pork with loin of garnishes. CARRÉ ofpork with various various sauces cARRf sauces and and garnishes. poRc RÔTI DE DE PORC ROTr -- Roast Roast the the loin loin in in the the oyen. oven. Arrange Arrange on on aa serving dish. serving (or dish dish. Surround garnish indicated with the Surround with the garnish indicated (or dish up up garnish separately the the garnish separately in in aa timbale) timbale) and serve with with the and serve the sauce sauce recommended. recommended. garnishes which Ali All the the garnishes which are are suitable suitable for for meat meat courses courses (lamb, beef, (lamb, (see beef, mutton, mutton, veal) veal) can can be be served with loin loin ofpork of pork (see served with GARNISHES). GARNISHES). ItIt can can also also be be served various sauces, served with with various sauces, such etc. such as as Charcutière, Charcutidre, Mustard, Mustard, Piquante, Piquante, Robert, Robert, Tomato, Tomato,etc. (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE). poRc RÔTI Roast Roast loin pork ài la loin of la soissonnaise. soissonnaise. CARRÉ of pork c.,c.nRf DE DE PORC n6n ÀA LA pork, season, LA SOISSONNAISE solssoNNnrse -- Trim Trim the loin of the loin season, and and roast roast itit of pork, in in an an earthenware earthenware dish, dish, cooking cooking itit until until itit isis three-quarters three-quarters do ne. Add (see done. Add sorne some kidney kidney beans, beans, cooked cooked separately separately (see BEANS, BEANS, Fresh Fresh red red beans). beans). Finish Finish cooking cooking in basting frequently. in the the oyen, oven, basting frequently. Serve Serve in in the the same dish. dish. Loin pork with pork àd Loin of of pork with sauerkraut sauerkraut -- See See Loin Loin of of pork l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. poRc -- The Pork offal meats. ABATS ofial or or variety meats. ABATs DE DE PORC The major major parts parts of pork otTal of pork offal are are used used as ingredients for for various various as ingredients

C.MNEOT PORC AUX AUX CHOUX CHOUX VERTS, VERTS, AUX AUX CHOUX CHOUXDEBRUXELLES_ cARRÉ DE PORC DE BRUXELLES-

Roast or pot-roast the or pot-roast the loin. loin. Arrange Arrange itit on on aa serving serving dish. dish. Roast Surround with garnish of with aa garnish green cabbage (see of Braised Braised green cabbage (see Surround CABBAGE), or or Brussels sprouts boiled boiled in in water, water, drained, drained, CABBAGE), and tossed in the fat in which the loin was was cooked. cooked. Pour Pour over over juices left from pan juices from roasting the loin. the pan Loin of ofpork cabbage. CARRÉ cARRf DE DE PORC FoRc AUX AUx CHOUX cHoux pork with red cabbage. Loin RoucEs -- Roast or pot-roast the or pot-roast pork as the loin loin of of pork as described ROUGES described above. Arrange Arrange itit on on aa serving serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with red red above. separately. cabbage braised braised separately. poRc À Loin of of pork à i la chipolata. CARRÉ clnn6 DE PORC A LA ra CHI Loin POLA TA cmpor,trl Season the loin of of pork advance - Season pork in ad vance and pot-roast it. Arrange itit on on a serving dish. dish. Surround Surround with with chipolaya chipolaya garnish, a serving composed of braised braised chestnuts, chestnuts, small small glazed onions, chi composed pochipolata panjuices 1ata sausages sausages and glazed carrots. Pour over the pan juices left from from cooking cooking the loin. poRc FROID Cold of pork. cmn6 FRorD -- This is generally CARRÉ DE PORC Cold loin of served with with a green green salad, potato potato salad, or red cabbage salad, accompaniedby accompanied by Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce (see SAUCE) pickled SAUCE) and andpickled gherkins. gherkins. ponc A Loin of pork pork ià Ia la limousine. limousine. c,c,nnf CARRÉ oE DE PORC À LA Loin of rl LIMOUSINErnraousrNE Roast or pot-roast Garnish with Red cabbage àd la pot-roast the loin. Garnish Ia Iimousine, limousine, braised braised with mashed chestnuts chestnuts (see CABBAGE). Pour Pour over over the pan pan juices juices left left from from roasting the loin. Roast pork. c,c.nRf Roast loin loin of ofpork. CARRÉ DE poRc PORC ndn RÔTI - Trim and season the loin loin in advance. advance. Roast it in the oven, oyen, or on a spit (see on a CULINARY CULINARY METHODS, METHODS, Average Average cooking cooking timefor roasts). roasts). Arrange Arrange on a serving serving dish. Garnish Garnish with watercress. Serve Serve with with the the pan pan juices, juices, suitably suitably diluted. diluted. ItIt isis customary customary in in certain certain parts parts of of France France to serve serve roast roast loin of of pork pork with with unsweetened unsweetened apple a pple pur6e. purée. Roast Roast loin loin of of pork pork ià la la languedocienne. languedocienne. c.mnf CARRÉ os DE ponc PORC n6rr RÔTI A À ra LA LA.r.icuEoocrENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Twelve Twelve hours before roasting roasting the loin, loin, insert insert into into itit some sorne pieces pieces of of garlic garlic cut into little litt le strips. strips. Season with salt salt and and spices spices and and sprinkle sprinkle with oil. Leave Leave to Season itit with marinate marinate in in this this seasoning. seasoning. Roast Roast in the the oven oyen or on a spit. Serve with its its own own juices. juices. Serve with Roast Roast loin loin of of pork pork ià la la provengale. provençale. c.lnnf CARRÉ DE DE FoRc PORC A À LA LA pRovENgALE PROVENÇALE -- Twelve Twelve hours hours before before roasting roasting the the loin insert insert into into it it some sorne sage sage leaves. leaves. Season Season with with salt sait and and powdered powdered thyme thyrne and and bay bay leaf. leaf. Cover Coyer with with crushed cru shed cloves cloves of of garlic garlic and pour pour over over aa few few tablespoons tablespoons olive olive oil. oil.

Roast loin loin ofpork of pork garnished garnished with wilh orange Roast orange

718 718

PORK dishes, such as truffied truffled turkey, turkey, goose stuffed with chestnuts, chestnuts , jelly or and,foie gras andfoie gras with with truffies, truffies, served served in in aa terrine,in terrine , injelly or in aa pie pie

products products known known in in U.S.A. U.S.A. as as variety variety meats meats or or cold cold cuts cuts and and in England England as as preparations preparations or or pork pork butchery: butchery: brawn brawn (U.S. (U .S. head head cheese), cheese), sausages, sausages , etc. etc. The'feet The· feet (trotters), brains, brains, liver, kidneys kidneys and the head head -especially be prepared prepared as independent independent dishes especially the the ears -- can be by by following following the the instructions instructions given given in the the recipes recipes for for veal and and mutton mutton offal offal or or variety variety meats. meats. All Ali recipes for preparing preparing pig's ears and trotters trotters will be be found found under under OFFAL OFF AL or VARIETY VARIETY ears and MEATS . MEATS.

crust. Achille cook and and poet, poet, wrote wrote of of black puddings: puddings: Achille Ozanne, Ozan ne, cook 'Prdparez 'Préparez des des oignons, oignons , hachds hachés menus, menus, menus, menus , lard sur sur unfeu un feu doux doux l'on l'on passe, passe , Qu'avec autant autant de lard Qu'avec Les Les tournant tant, tant , qu'ils qu 'ils soient d'un blond blond devenus, devenus, Et Et que que leur leur doux doux arome arome envahisse envahisse I'espace l'e!>pace .. . .. M0lez tout au au sang, sang, puis, puis, bien bien assaisonnez, assaisonnez , Mêlez le tout De poivre et muscade, muscade, ainsi ainsi que que des des ipices; épices; De sel, sel, poivre Un verre Cognac ; apris: verre de Cognac; après : vous entonnez Dans les boyaux boyaux de de porc, porc, dont I'un l'un des orifices orifices Est dès qu'ils qu'ils sont remplis, remplis, Est d'avancefermi, d'avance ferm é, et dis Ficelez Ficelez I'autre l'autre bout, bout , et dans I'eaufrimissante l'eau frémissant e Plongez Plongez tous tous les boudins boudins ! Ces travaux travaux accomplis, accomplis, Egouttez-les Egouttez-les apris après vingt vingt minutes minutes d'attente.' d'attente . '

'Chop 'Chop the onions, finely, finely , finely, finely , of fat on a low fire, Toss them them in an equal equal amount of golden colour, colour, Stirring them, until they are a beautiful Stirring beautiful golden .. all round . .. And their fragrance pervades ail with well with Blend Blend them them with blood then season weil Salt, pepper, pepper, nutmeg and the spices; mixture stuffthe A glass of of brandy and then you stuff the mixture of which Into the pig's intestine, one end ofwhich Has previously been sealed. As soon as this is filled, filled , Tie up the other end and into simmering water Plunge the black pudding! Once this is done, Plunge drain.'.' minutes, and drain You give them twenty minutes,

Pork pie

poRc A pAru CHAUD Hot pork pork pie. PÂTÉ CHAUD DE PORC À L' ANGLAISE -- Line the Hot t',q,NcLelss sides and bottom bottom of thio slices of ham. Put of raw ham. of a pie dish with thin into this dish, in alternate layers layers,, 500 g. (18 oz.) slices offresh pork, seasoned pepper and powdered thyme and and seasoned with with salt, pepper (q.v.) mixture bay leaf, leaf, and mixture;; with dried dried duxelles duxelles (q.v.) and sprinkled sprinkled with (18 OZ.l also oz., 33 cups) cups) raw also chopped chopped parsley and and sage sage,, 500 g. (18 (4 oz., potatoes g. (4 oz., 1I cup) potatoes cut 100 g. cut in in thin thin slices slices and and 100 chopped chopped onion. (f pint, pint,3c,rp) lid of water, cover with a !id Moisten with li 1cup) water, l| dl.
of animais animals other Black puddings can be made using blood of pig's blood, pig, but any addition blood, or even its complete addition to pig's than pig, produces black sheep, produces calfor substitution by the blood of ofox, substitution ox, calf or sheep, puddings ofmediocre of mediocre quality. the blood blood of of various from the Black puddings can can be be made made from Black animals such as deer, wild boar, etc., fowls, rabbits, and wild animais if the blood of of these be made made if the blood but these can only only be these puddings can but therefore be blooded, animals can be obtained, and they must therefore animais pig. is done with the domestic domestic pig. as is In France boudinalso France the name boudin ln also applies to various preparations made from poultry and game, which are really no more quenelles. than quenelles. in made in great variety are made variety of black and and white puddings are A great best Among the the best its special special boudin. boudin. Among France. Each Each region has has its France. Metz, Nancy, Metz, of Nancy, known are white puddings of are the the black black and and white known Albi, Toulouse, Toulouse, Pau, Albi, Rouen, Pau, Strasbourg, Lyons, Lyons, Dijon, Dijon, Rouen, Strasbourg, Flanders Berry, Brittany, Flanders Limousin, Roussillon, Roussillon, Berry, Auvergne, Limousin, in Paris. Paris. last but not not least, those those made in and, last (U.S. blood and pudding (U.S. sausage blood sa Btack pudding and white pudding and white usage and Black poRc -- These pork sausages are These pork sausages are DE PORC white sausage). nouotN DE sausage). BOUDIN white grilled generally found in the shops They can can be griIJed use. They ready for use. shops ready generally lard. in butter or or lard. as fried fried in as weil well as or cooked cooked in in the the oven oven., as or pig'ss bJood and fat. fat. blood and The black made of of pig' black pudding isis made The pork meat meat pudding isis aa sausage of white white pork sausage made made of The white white pudding The and fat. fat. and (U.S. blood NoIRs DE DE puddings (U.S. nouolNs NOIRS sausage). BOUDINS Black puddings blood sausage). Black ponc -- Into (21lb.) in hog's fat fat cut cut in fresh hog's kg. (2i Into aa large large bowl put 1I kg. PORC lb.) fresh (14 oz., cups) chopped chopped g. (14 o2.,3| 400 g. large dice dice and half-melted, 400 and half-melted, large 31 cups) colour, 66 to colour, without allowing allowing itit to onion, fried fried lightly lightly in in lard lard without onion, ground pepper pepper and good pinch pinch of and aa offreshly teaspoons salt, salt, aa good teaspoons freshly ground pints) (scant 11 pints, scant good pinch scant 22 pints) pinch of l| pints, Add 88 dl. dl. (scant of sspices. pices. Add good (f pint, pig's bJood pint, scant fresh cream. cream. cup) fresh dl. (jscant cup) blood and and 22 dl. pig's pig's with the the intestines with Fill pig' Mix ail these ingredients ingredients.. Fill Mix s intestines all these mixture much, as as the the mixture too much, mixture, without without stuffing stuffing them them too mixture, puddings into the desired desired into the black puddings Tie the the black swells uring cooking. swells dduring cooking. Tie be.. case may may be leave whole, whole, as as the the case lengths, or or leave lengths, plunge this into aa this tray tray into tray and and plunge Lay them wicker tray Lay them out out on on aa wicker pan to side of of the the pan of to the the side Draw the the pan big pan boiling water. water. Draw of boiling big 719 719

PORK PORK poach the burner and puddings at and poach the black black puddings at aa temperature temperature of of burner e (203'F.) 95'C. (203 for about about 20 20 minutes. minutes. As As they they rise rise to to the the 9S°C. F.) for prick them surface, prick pin to them with with aa pin when to let let our our air, air, otherwise, otherwise, when surface, heated, the the casings casings may burst. may burst. heated, puddings. Leave Drain the get cold the puddings. Leave them them to to get cold on on the the wicker wicker Drain tray, covered covered with prevent their with aa cloth cloth to to prevent their drying drying up up too too tray, much. much. Make aa few few shallow shallow incisions grill very incisions on on both both sides sides and and grill very Make gently 00 on moderate moderate heat. potatoes. Serve with heat. Serve with mashed mashed potatoes. geotly puddings (U.S. (U.S. blood Black puddings sausage) ài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. BOUDINS blood sausage) BouDrNs Black NoIns À A L'ANGLAISE L'Ar.rcrArsE -- Prepare Prepare as as ordinary puddings, ordinary black black puddings, NOIRS adding to g. (l (18 to the the mixture mixture 500 500 g. oz.) rice weil well cooked cooked in in stock, stock, adding 8 oz.) quantity of or an an equal pearl barley, equal quantity of pearl barley, also in stock. also cooked cooked in stock. or plenty Season with with pleut spices. of spices. Season y of Grill like ordinary puddings. ordinary black black puddings. Grililike puddings (U.S. (U.S. blood sausage) Black puddings sausage) àd la flamande. flarnsnde. BOUDlNS BouDrNS Black .,c, LA LA, FLAMANDE rrAMANDr - Use Use mixture mixture similar similar to to that for ordinary that for ordinary À puddings, adding black puddings, (7 oz., g. (7 adding to to itit 200 200 g. scant cup) cup) brown brown oz., seant black (4 oz g. (4 sugar, 100 100 g. oz.,l a,tp) currants currants and the the same same amount amount of of sugar, .. t cup) sultanas, washed, washed, allowed allowed to to swell swell in in warm warm water, water, and and sultanas, drained weil. well. drained puddings are These black grilled in black puddings in the are grilled the Ilsual usual way way and and These served with with sweetened pur6e. sweetened apple purée. served puddings (V.S. (U.S. blood sa Black puddings sausages) with apples, called lii la Black usages) witb poMMEs. DITS normande. BOUDINS BouDrNs NOmS NoIRS AUX AUx PO~L'dES, DITs À A LA LA NORMANDENoRMANDE normande. puddings into Cut the the black black puddings into uniform uniform little little chunks chunks and and sauté saut6 Cut in butter butter in in aa frying pan. When frying pan. When they are are lightly lightly browned, browned, add in peeled, sliced sliced cooking cooking apples, cooked cooked in in butter, butter, allowing allowing SOO 500 peeled, g. (18 (18 oz.) (2* lb.) per 1I kg. oz.) apples lb.) black apples per g. kg. (2i black puddings. puddings. Saut6 the apples and and the the black black puddings for aa few few Sauté the apples puddings for moments. Serve in aa deep Serve in deep dish. dish. moments. poRc puddings (V.S. (U.S. sausage). White puddings sausage). BOUDINS rouorNs BLANCS BLANcs DE PORCWoole (18 oz.) lean Chop finely (lf g. (18 together SOO g. (Ii 500 g. lean pork and 800 g. Chop fineJy together pork and lb.) fresh fat. lb.) fresh pork pork fat. Pound this (4 oz., g. (4 in aa mortar, adding to it 100 g. oz.,tt Pound this mixture mixture in mortar, adding to it cup) butter, quantity of goose Iiver. and an equal quantity liver. ofraw cup) butter, and raw fat fat goose Rub this through a sieve, put stir Rub this mixture mixture through put into into a bowl bowl and stir with wooden spoon. g. spoon. Add, eggs, 100 100 g. with aa wooden Add, one by one, 44 whole eggs, (4 oz., oz.,l1 cup) cup) chopped onion fried lightly in (4 chopped onion fried lightly in butter butter without without allowing it (} pint, and 2 2 dl. dl. (t scant cup) cup) fresh cream. allowing it to to colour, colour, and pint, seant cream. Season with good pinch Season with 55 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, a good pinch of of white pepper pepper and a of spices. and a pinch pinch of spiees. Mix Mix well. weil. (casings) with Fill witb this tbis mixture mixtu re and poach poach as FilJ pigs'intestines pigs' intestines (casings) described in described in the the recipe recipe for for black black puddings. puddings. Grilled (sausage). BouDrNs BLANcs cmrrss Grilled white woole puddings pllddings (sausage). BOUDINS BLANCSGRlLLÉSWhen When the the white white puddings puddings are quite quite cold, prick prick them (do (do not not make make incisions incisions with with a a knife) knife) on on both both sides, wrap wrap each in in a piece pieee ofbuttered of buttered greaseproofpaper greaseproof paper and cook cook gently gently under under a grill. grill. Serve Serve with with mashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. Bacon Bacon rinds rinds and and pork Jlork skin. skin. couENNE COUENNE DE DE poRc PORC -- Bacon Bacon rinds rinds and and pork pork skin skin are are used used in in a a great great number number of of culinary culinary preparations, preparations, mainly mainly as as an an element clement of of garnish garnisb for for braised braised meats meats and and, along along with with calves' calves' feet, feet, as as the gelatinous gelatinous element element in in preparing preparing jellies. jellies. Pork Pork skin, skin, boiled boiled in in well-spiced well-spiced stock, stock, can also also be be prepared prepared as as ballottines ballottines or or roulades, roulades, which which are are served scrved cold. pnnr Salt Salt pork. pork. PE11T sA.rf SALÉ DE DE poRc PORC - This This term term covers co vers various various joints joints of of pork pork pickled pickled in in brine. brine. Forequarter Forequarter flank, flank, cutlets, ears, ears, knuckles, knuckles, pig's pig's snout, snout, etc., etc., can can be be treated treated in in this this way. way. Wash Wash the the pork pork in in plenty plenty of of water, water, then then put put into into brine brine and leave leave from from 33 to to 66 days, days, depending depending on the the season. These cuts cuts are are boiled boiled in in water water and and served served hot, hot, with with potato potato salad. salad. The The termpetit term petit salC saM applies applies to 10 salt salt chine of of pork, pork, which which is is boiled boiJed and and served served with with various various vegetables, vegetables, most most frequently frequently with with boiled boiled or or braised braised cabbage cabbage or or mashed mashed potatoes. potatoes. This This cut eut is is also also used used as as an an ingredientfor ingredient for potie. pOlée. Boiled BoiJed salt salt pork pork ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. poRc PORC sA,rf SALÉ sorrIrrr BOUILLI A À L'ANGLAIsE L'ANGLAISE -- Boil Boil aa piece piece of of salt salt pork pork (shoulder (shoulder or or breast) breast) in in

water with with the the usual usual vegetables vegetables and parsnips. Arrange and 66 parsnips. Arrange on water on aa dish and and surround surround with garnish. Serve with the the vegetable vegetable gamish. dish Serve with with pease pudding, pudding, which prepared in which isis prepared in the the following following manner: manner: pease Blend together g. (18 together in in aa bowl (18 oz., bowl SOO 500 g. oz., 22 cups) cups) rather rather thick Blend thick pur6e of peas, 100 g. (4 (a oz., of split split peas, 100 g. oz,\cup) butter, 33 whole purée t cup) butter, whole eggs, eggs, pepper and salt, pepper grated nutroeg. and grated nutmeg. salt, Put this this purée pur6e into into aa buttered buttered pudding basin basin and and cook cook in in Put the oven in aa bain-marie. oven in bain-marie. the The mixture can can be in aa scalded, be put in scalded, buttered buttered and floured and floured The cloth, tied tied and and cooked pork. cooked with with the the pork. c1oth, yellow split Pur6e of of yellow peas can split peas can be be served with boiled Purée served with boiled salt salt pork àd l'anglaise I'anglaise instead pease pudding. pudding. instead of of pease pork ponc - Pork Pork s3llsages. sausages. SAUCISSES sAucrssEs DE Dg PORC sausages, whether Pork whether - Pork sausages, they be be long long or or fiat, flat, are are made made of of sa sausage meat, which which can can they usage meat, include various ingredients. ingredients. incJude Sausages which which are are not made of of pork, as as weil well as sausages sausages of Sausages of foreign origin (Cambridge sausages, origin (Cambridge sausages, Frankfurt Frankfurt sausages, foreign are dealt dealt with with under SAUSAGE. SAUSAGE. etc.) are Sausage meal. meat. Chop quantities of Chop separately separately equal equal quantities of lean Sausage pork, having removed removed ail all sinews, pork fat. sinews, and and fresh fresh pork fat. Pound pork, this forcemeat forcemeat in in aa mortar mortar to varying degrees to varying degrees of fineness, of fineness, this depending on the type ofsausage of sausage for which they are intended. intended. depending Season with (see SALT), allowing about with Spiced salt sall (see about 44 to to 5 Season teaspoons salt per kg. (2 teaspoons per lb.). Or.' Use Use half fat, fat, half !ean lean pork, remove remove ail all sinews, and Or: chop finely. Season Season with salt as above. chop Or; Chop Chop lean beef and pork in and neck neck end end of of pork Or: lean beef in equal proportions. proportions. forcemeat is ready, stuff pigs' Making sausages. When the forcemeat intestines with with it, it, using aa special special utensil. To To facilitate intestines facilitate this incorporate a little cold water or 2 whoJe whole eggs per operation, incorporate (l whole kg. (1 per lb.) ofmeat whole egg per while mixing of meat in the forcemeat forcemeat whilemixing it. il. Trffied sa sausage meat. Prepare Prcpare as above, adding 150 g. Truffied usage meal. as above, g. (5 oz.,2lctps) cut in small dice, to the forcemeat. oz., 2t cups) fresh truffies, eut forcemeat. Truffied sausages are mostly made of forcemeat to which Truffied truffie Iruffle parings parings have been added. Sausages with sAucrssEs AUx Sausages wilh red or green cabbage. SAUCISSES AUX cHoux CHOUX RoucEs, cnoux VERTS vERTs -- Grill Grill the sausages, sausages, or poach ROUGES, CHOUX poach them in white wine. Arrange them green cabbage, of braised them on a bed of braised green or red cabbage as described described in the recipe cabbage prepared as recipe for Red cabbage dlaflamandc cabbage à /aflamande (see (see CABBAGE). CASSAGE). IfIf the sausages sausages are poached, poached, add the liquor liquor in which they are are cooked to the cabbage cabbage braising braising liquid. Sairsages slucrssss .i, catalane. SAUCISSES À ra LA c.lr,rlANe CATALANE - Fry in Sa·usages ili la catalane. lard lard I1 kg. (2+ (2i lb.) of of big big sausage sausage twisted into a coil. When it is well weil browned, remove œmove from from the pan. pan. Put Put 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour into the same fat and colour colour lightly. lightly. Moisten Moisten with white white wine and meat meat stock, add 11 tablespoon tomato pur6e, purée, and mix well. weil. Cook for 10 JO minutes minutes and and strain. Put the sausage back into the the pan. pan. Add 2 to 4 blanched cloves cloyes of garlic garlic and a bouquet garni garni (q.v.'), (q.v.), to which which a small small piece piece of of bitter bitter orange rind rind has been added. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the sausage. sausage. Cover Cover and and simmer simmer gently for 30 30 minutes. minutes. The The sauce sauce can can be be thickened thickened with with white white breadcrumbs breadcrumbs instead instead offlour. of flour. Chipolata Chipolata sausages. sausages. sAUcrssES SAUCISSES cHrpoI,ArAs CHIPOLATAS -- Sausages Sausages made made in in very very small-sized casings. casings. These are are divided into into pieces pieces from from 44 to 55 cm. cm. (llto (11 to 22 inches) inch es) long. long. They are are used used as aa garnish for for varigus various dishes and can be be grilled, grilled, fried fried in in butter butter or or poached poached in in white white wine. wine. Country Country saussges sausages I. 1. s,c,ucrssrs SAUCISSES DE DE cAMpAGwr CAMPAGNE -- Stuff Stuff pigs' pigs' intestines 2 parts intestines with with aa forcemeat forcemeat composed composed of 01'2 parts lean lean beef beef and and I1 part part lean lean fresh fresh bacon, bacon, seasoned with with 66 teaspoons teaspoons salt, salt, I1 teaspoon teaspoon p€pper, pepper, It teaspoon teaspoon pounded pounded pimento, pimento, a pinch pinch of of saltpetre salt petre and I1 clove c10ve of of garlic, garlic, per per kg. kg. (2+ (2* lb.) lb.) forcemeat. forcemeat. Make Make the the sausages sausages from from l0 10 to to 12 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to to 55 inches) inches) long. long. 720 720

PORRIDGE PORRIDGE Mix Mix itit with with sausage sausage meat, meat, bind bind with with eggs, eggs, season season well, weil, add add chopped chopped parsley parsley and and aa dash dash ofbrandy of brandy and and blend' blend. Stuffthe Stuff the suckling suckling pig pig the the day day before before itit isis to to be be cooked cooked and and leave leave in in aa marinade marinade of ofoil, oil, brandy, brandy, sliced sliced carrots carrots and and onions, onions, parsley, parsley, thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf, leaf, crushed crushed cloves cloves of ofgarlic garlic and and spices. spices. Truss and skewer Trussand skewer the the suckling suckling pig pig and and sew sew up up the the opening. opening. bacon rinds, Put Put itit into into aa long longbraising braisingpan pan on on aa foundation foundation of ofbacon rinds, and and the the carrots carrots and and onions onions used used for for the the marinade. marinade. Add Add fresh fresh sliced carrots and and onions. onions. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with lard, lard, cover, co ver, and and cook cook sliced carrots gently gently on on the the top top of of the the stove stove until until the the vegetables vegetables begin begin to to

When When they they are are ready, ready, dry dry them them on on the thetop toppart part of ofthe the oven. oven. to l2 Poach Poach in in boiling boiling water water or or stock stock from from l0 lOto 12minutes. minutes. This This type typeof ofsausage sausageisis used usedmainly mainly as as an anelement elementof ofgarnish garnish for forpoties. potées. Country Country sausages sausages II. II. sluclssss SAUCISSES DE DE cAMPAGNE CAMPAGNE -- Use Use forceforce-

meat meat composed composed of of 22 parts parts lean lean pork pork and and I1 part part firm firm bacon bacon fat, fat, seasoned seasoned as as above, above, flavoured flavoured with with savory, savory, coriander, coriander, marjoram, marjoram, thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf, leaf, and and moistened moistened with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant I cup) cup) red red wine wine per per kg. kg. (2* (2* lb.). lb.). Stuff Stuff small small ox ox intestines intestines with with this this forcemeat. forcemeat. Join Join the the sausages sa usages two two by by two two and and dry dry on on the the top top part part of ofthe the oven. oven. These These sausages sausages are are poached poached in in water water or or cooked cooked in in poties. potées. Pig's Pig's liver Iiver sausege. sausage. sAUcIssEs SAUCISSES DE DE FoIE FOIE DE DE PoRc PORC -- Use Use forcemeat forcemeat composed composed of of 33 parts parts pork pork (fat (fat and and lean) lean) and and I1part part pig's pig's liver, liver, previously previously parboiled parboiled and and seasoned seasoned with with Spiced Spicedsalt salt (see (see SALT), SALT), allowing allowing from from 44 teaspoons teaspoons per per kg. kg. (2 (2 teaspoons teaspoons per per lb.), lb.), and and mixed mixed with with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) pig's pig's blood. blood. Stuffin Stuff in beef beef intestine intestine casings. casings. Divide Oivide into into lengths lengths of of 10 10 to l2 12 cm. cm. (4 (4 to to 55 inches). inches). Poach Poach in in water water like like black black puddings. puddings. Pig's Pig's liver liver sausage sausage is is also also grilled grilled like like black black pudding. pudding. Shoulder ShouJder oflnrk. ofpork. 6rnun ÉPAULE DE DE PoRc PORC - Fresh Fresh shoulder shoulder ofpork of pork is is used used in the the same same way as chine. Bone Bone and and roll roll the the shoulder, shoulder, then roast, pot-roast pot-roast or or braise braise it. it. Serve Serve with all a1l the the garnishes garnishes suitable for Loin of ofpork. park. The shoulder can also be be cut cut ihto ihto pork is pieces pieces and made made into into stews. stews. Salted shoulder shoulder of ofpork is used used as as an for poties. an ingredient ingredient for potées. and smoked shoulder of Boned, salted salted and of pork pork is is prepared prepared like leg. Cold pork slices. frrnNcfs Cold ÉMINCÉS DE poRc PORC -- Use left-over left-over pork pork cut cut for Sliced beef(see Sliced beef(see in the recipe for into thin slices, described in slices, as described BEEF). or Robert with Charcutiire served with This dish dish is is usually This usually served Charcutière or Robert or (see SAUCE) accompanied by mashed potatoes SAUCE) and accompanied potatoes or sauce (see pur6e of starchy vegetable. ofany a purée any other starchy as aa cooked as seldom cooked Pork is seldom PoRc -- Pork DE PORC RAGoOT DE Pork stew. RAGOÛT preparation of preparation stew. The cuts most suitable for this method of taken to to be taken should be Care should and breast. breast. Care are the shoulder, chine and all surplus surplus fat. remove ail eoncrrnr -- See Piglet. suckling pig. PORCELET Sucking pig, suckling Sucking

t

brown. brown. Moisten Moisten with with 33 dl. dl. @ (t pint, pint, l] li- cups) cups) dry dry white white wine. wine. Boil Boil down down this this liquid. liquid. Add Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons thickened thickened brown brown veal veal stock stock and and aa good good bouquet bouquet garni garni (q.v.). (q.v.). Cook Cook in in the the oven. oven. When Wh en done, done, the the skin skin of ofthe the suckling suckling pig pig should should be be golden golden and and crisp. crisp. dish. Drain Drain the the piglet, piglet, untruss, untruss, and and put put on on a a serving serving dish. Garnish Garnish all ail round round with with small small pork pork uepinettes crepinettes (see (see above) above) aux aux fines fines herbes herbes and and small sm ail black black puddings puddings fried fried in in butter. butter. Add Add the the onions onions and and carrots carrots from from the the braising braising pan' pan. Pour Pour over over the the strained strained braising braising liquor. liquor. Serve Serve with with aa pur6e purée made made of of mashed mashed celeriac celeriac and and potatoes potatoes in in equal equal proportions. proportions. Instead Instead of of braising braising the the piglet piglet with with slices slices of of onions onions and and carrots, carrots, itit can can be be garnished garnished with with medium-sized medium-sized whole whole onions onions them and and carrots carrots cut cut down down to to a a uniform uniform size, size, disposing disposing them around around the the dish dish along along with with black black pudding pudding and and cripinettescrépinettes. The The stuffing stuffing should should be be of of an an adequate adequate consistency consistency (which (which is is achieved achieved by by binding binding it it with with egg) egg) to to ensure ensure that that when when the the intact, remains but out but remains intact, suckling suckling pig pig is is cut, cu t, it it does does not not spill spill out together together with with the the cut cut slice. slice. given to Name given PORKER. PORKER. coREr GORET - Name to aa piglet piglet which, which, having having suckling pig. longer aa suckling no longer of six six months, reached the reached the age age of months, is is no pig.

the puffing of the The smallest smallest of PORPOISE. MARSOUIN MARsouIN -- The PORPOISE. puffing cetcetThe it. The from it. extracted from the oil oil extracted for the valuable mainly aceans, valuable aceans, mainly for in it was was sold sold in former times times it In former porpose is oily. In though oily. is edible, edible, though porpose in and eaten eaten in ways and various ways prepared in in various It is is prepared Lent. It Paris during during Lent. Paris Newfoundland. Iceland and and Newfoundland. Scotland. Scot land, lceland

frorrf Àrc' pig ài J'occitane. PoRcELET ÉTOFFÉ I'occitane. PORCELET Stufied suckling suckling pig Stuffed pig through short through aa short the suckling suckling pig out the Clean out - Clean bones. leg bones. the leg only the Bone it, it, leaving only incision on the belly. belly. Bone on the incision and brandy, and with brandy, sprinkle with and spices, spices, sprinkle inside with with salt salt and Season inside Season few hours. hours. for aa few leave to to marinate marinate for leave mixture: following mixture: Stuffit with the the fo1lowing Stuff it with into liver into quantity of of calfs calfs liver an equal equal quantity pig's liver liver and and an Cut the pig's Cut to butter, to in sizzling sizzling butter, brown briskly briskly in and brown small slices. slices. Season Season and small put in dish. in aa dish. and put stiffen them. them. Drain, Drain, and stiffen L'occlrANE L'OCCITANE

the and the quickly brown heart and the heart brown the In the butter, quickly the same same butter, ln (5 g. (5 150 g. and 150 slices, and pig, cut into small small slices, cut into kidneys of of the suckling pig, the suckling kidneys in cold cold parboiled, rinsed rinsed in soaked, parboiled, sweetbreads, soaked, lambs' sweetbreads, oz.) lambs' oz.) and sliced. sliced. water and water with the the put together together with and put ingredients and Drain ail all these these ingredients Drain liver. liver. pan and and (scant i-f cup) to the the same same pan cup) butter butter to Add 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant Add onion (7 oz., chopped on finely chopped cups) finely scant 22 cups) lightly fry fry 200 200 g.g. (7 oz., seant lightly ion well the onion onion isis weil When the colour. When to colour. without allowing allowing itit to without (3 tablespoons) shallots chopped shallots tablespoons) chopped softened, add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 softened, (q.v.). Fry few Fry for for aa few (t pin pint, died duxelles duxelles (q.v.). cup)dried and 22dl. dl. (1 scant cup) and t, scant garlic. Moisten with pounded garlic. Moisten with pinch of of pounded add aa pinch moments, and and add moments, pint, scant cups) scant 22 cups) dl. Ci add 44 dl. down, and and add dry white white wine, wine, boil boil down, dry @ pint, rich veal veal broth. broth. rich (5 oz.) bacon rinds, rinds, fresh bacon oz.) fresh add 150 150 g.g. (5 Bring to to the boil, add the boil, Bring blanched pieces, and and blanched stoned and and stoned cooked and cut inin small small pieces, and cut cooked above Put the the above green olives. few minutes. minutes. Put for aa few olives. Cook Cook for green thesauce sauce allowing the without allowing Heat, without ingredients into into this this sauce. sauce. Heat, ingredients ragofitto tocool. cool. thisragoût to boil, boil,stir, stir, and and leave leavethis to

(C/aire)

Porridge (Claire) Porridge

o'lvorNr -- AA (English cookery). BoUILLIE D'AVOINE cookery). BOUILLIE PORRIDGE (English PORRIDGE water. and water. oatmeal and treated oatmeal popular food, specially treated made of of specially food, made popular and Ireland and in Scotland, Scotland, Ireland greatly appreciated appreciated in Porridge isis greatly Porridge the recipe: recipe: Here isis the England. Here throughout England. throughout

with 2| quart) water water with generous quart) (l| pints, pints, generous Boii 1I litre litre (li Boil pour 300 300g.g. established, pour as boiling boiling isisestablished, As soon soon as teaspoons salt. salt. As teaspoons all rain.Stir Stir aU steady rain. (l I oz., into itit inin aasteady cups) oatmeal oatmealinto scant 22cups) oz., scant (lI consistency. thedesired desired consistency. porridge acquires acquires the the porridge until the the time, time, until the

2t

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PORRINGER PORRINGER Leave to simmer for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time. Leave to simmer for 20 minutes, stirring from time to time. Serve with cold milk or cream. Each person at table is left to or cream. Each person at table is left to Serve with cold milk season porridge his or her taste. season porridge totohis or her taste. Porridge hasty-pudding. oounrrn - Bring salt water to BOUILLIE - Bring salt water to Porridge ororbasty-pudding. the boil in a pan. Pour in maizeflour (corn meal, or a mixture Pour in maize f10ur (corn meal, or a mixture the boil in a of maize and wheaten flour) to obtain a fairly thick mixture. of maize wheaten f1our) to obtain a fairly thick mixture. Cook on moderate heat, stirring frequently with a wooden Cook on moderate heat, with a wooden spoon, until the mixture is very thick. Add a few tablespoons tablespoons spoon, until the mixture is very pork fat. Mix well. pork fat. Mix weil. While it is still hot, pour this porridge on to a coarse linen on to a coarse linen While it is still hot, cloth and spread it out in a layer about 2lcm. (l inch) thick. cloth and spread it out a cm. (1 inch) thick. Leave to cool. When it is quite cold, cut it into squares or cold, cut it into squares or Leave to cool. When it is rectangles, and proceed as indicated in the selected recipe. rectangles, and proceed as in the selected recipe. Anowroot porridge. porridge. BOUILLIE BouLLrE À.i, L'ARROWROOT r'nnRownoor - - See See ArroWl"oot ARROWROOT. ARROWROOT. Buckwheat porridge. BourLLrE DE sARRAsTN - See KASHA. BOUILLIE DE SARRASIN - See KASHA. Mrize porridge or las pous pous @6rigord cookery). BourLLrE DE Maize (Périgord cookery). BOUILLIE DE MAi's DITE LAS pous - This bouillie or porridge, which in MAÏS DITE LAS POUS - This bouillie or porridge, which in P6rigord is also called rimotes, is somewhat simitar to the Périgord is also ca lied rimotes, is somewhat similar to the gaudes of Franche-Comt6 and also to polenta, as it is made in Franche-Comté and also to polenta, as it is made in gaudes of Italy, Corsica Corsica and and Provence. Provence. Italy, The bouillie is eaten instead of bread with certain dishes, The bouillie is eaten instead of bread with certain dishes, such as salt pork with cabbage and jugged hare, and is also such as salt pork with cabbage and jugged hare, and is also served as a soup. It is prepared like polenta (q.v.). served as a soup. It is prepared like polenta (q.v.). It can can also also be be eaten eaten as as aa sweet sweet course. course. For Foi this, this, when when the the It maize is cooked, pour it into a baking pan or some other is cooked, pour it into a baking pan or sorne other maize shallow receptacle, spread spread itit in in an an even even layer, iayer, and and allow allow to to shallow receptacle, cool. Cut Cut into into uniform pieces, dip uniform pieces, dip in in f10ur flour and and fry fry in in lard lard or or cool. butter. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with sugar. sugar. butter. Il6arn millas. millas. MILLAS MTLLAs DU ou BÉARN sfARN -- The porridge, which The porridge, which in in Béarn this region region is is also also called called, pas paste, pastel , gaudines gaudines and yerbilhou, and. yerbilhou, te, pastel, this prepared in the same way as broye (q.v.). is prepared is in the same way as broye (q.v.). P6rigord millas pfnrc,ouRDrN, LAS millas or pous. MILLAS pous _ or las las pons. unr.e,s PÉRIGOURDIN, LAs pous-Périgord Proceed in the usual way with with amixture a.mixture of of equal quantities of equal quantities of Proceed in the usual (corn meal) maize (corn meal) and and wheaten fiour. flour. maize If the is too too thick thick it it can can be be made made lighter lighter with with aa If the porridge porridge is little It can can be made more more delicate delicate by by the addition of the addition of hot milk. milk. It be made little hot a little fresh butter just before the porridge is ready. a little fresh butter just before the porridge is ready. Dr. Bircher-Benner's muesli. BOUILLIE BourLLrE CRUE cRr;E DU DU DOCTEUR DocrEUR Dr. Bircher-Benner's muesli. BIRcTTER-BENNER - This is not strictly speaking a porridge, BIRCHER-BENNER - This is not strictly speaking a beeause so mushv is not not boiled, boiled, but but its its consistency consistency is is so mushy that it because itit is has has the the appearance appearance ofporridge. of porridge. Attaching of raw Attaching great great importanc€ importance to to the the nutritive nutritive value of food, as a food, Dr. Dr. Bircher-Benner Bircher-Benner prescribed this this mixture mixture as breakfast supper dish. dish. At lunch time he he allowed various breakfast and and supper cooked and even even meat, meat, in in addition addition to raw vegetables cooked foods foods and and and fruit fruit served served as as an an hors-d'uuyre. hors-d'œuvre. The The muesli muesli isis prepared overnight. Soak Soak 2 or 33 tablespoons tab,lespoeJns rolled rolled oats oats in in cold water water for for 12 hours. hours. On the follbwing !OIIO\:VlnlY morning, drain drain and and mix mix with with condensed condensed milk, milk, raw raw grated unpeeled apples, apples, or or with with any any other other fruit fruit in in season, season, sometimes sometimes with grated grated carrots. carrots. Add Add honey honey and and lemon lemon juice. juice. PORRINGER. PORRINGER. fcurrrn ÉCUELLE -- Bowl Bowl made made of of wood, wood, earthenware earthenware or or metal metal to to hold hold an an individual individual portion portion of of food. food. In In the the Middle Middle Ages Ages itit was was usual usual for for two two people people to to share share aa porringer, porringer, hence hence the French expression: expression: 'Manger 'Manger dà la la m)me même icuelie'(which écuelle' (which the French means, means, roughly, roughly, to to live live in in one one another's another's pocket). pocket). poRTo PORT. great A wine, PORT. PORTO -- A wine, of of international international renown. renown, grown thevalley valley of Douro in in Portugal, Portugal, east east of ofthe the town town of of grownininthe Oporto. Oporto. This This wine wine matures matures splendidly splendidly and and reaches reaches its its pleniplenitude tudewhen whenititisisbetween between 25 25 and,30 and 30years yearsold. old. The Thetypes types oiport ofport wines winesusually usuallyconsumed consumed are arethe the result result of ofblendingJof blendings ofseviral several different different vintage years. years. However, However, connoisseuis connoisseurs naturally pfefer'vintage' port prefer portwith withamilldsime,that a millésime, thatisis aasingle singlespecified vintage drunk as as an an ap6ritifin apéritif in France, France, but the vintageyear. year. Port isis drunk English drinkingititafter afterthe tbemeal meal isis often often adopted adopted Englishcustom customofofdrinking where whereold oldvintage vintageport portisisconcerned. concerned. port Porthas hasits its part partto toplay play

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thecomposition compositionofvarious of variousdishes, dishes,such (See suchasaseel eelmatelote matelote (See ininthe MATELOTE,Matelote Mateloteà dlalacanotière), canotiire),ca!ves' calves'sweetbreads sweetbreads MATELOTE, (seeOFF OFFAL) and,ofofcourse, course,cocktails (portfljp, cocktails(port , zabaglioneand, flip, (see AL), zabaglione etc.). etc.). PORTER- -English Englishbeer, beer,very verystrong strongand anddark, dark,almost almostblack. PORTER black.

PORT-SALUT- -See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. PORT-SALUT PORTUGAISE Tomatofondue fonduemade madewith withbutter butterororoiloil PORTUGAISE - -Tomato andf1avoured flavouredwith withonion, garlicand onion,garlic parsley.(See (SeeFONDUE, andparsley. FONDUE, and Tomatofondue). Tomato fondue). PORTUGUESEOYSTER. OYSTER. GRYPHÉE onvpnfn- -Type Typeofofrnollusc (see PORTUGUESE mollusc(see oYSTERS). OYSTERS). POSSET- -Hot Hotdrink drinkmade madeof ofmilk milkand andwhite whitewine POSSET wineororbeer. beer.

POT-AU-FEU - -An Anessentially essentially French Frenchmethod POT-AU-FEU methodofofcooking cookinga a brothwhich which provides providesatatone onetime timesoup, soup, meat meatand broth andvegetables vegetables (see SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS). BROTHS). (see

poussr-Oxide POTASH. Alkaline substance POT ASH. POTASSE - Oxide of potassium. Alkaline substance plays an which plays animportant importantrôle r6le innutrition. nutrition. which POTASSruM NITRATE MTRATE-- Sec SeeSAL SALTPETRE. POTASSIUM TPETRE. poraurs POTATOES. DETERRE rERRE - - Tuber-bearing POTATOES. POMMES DE Tuber-bearing plants, plants, native of of South South America, America, introduced introduced into native into France, France.asasan an ornamental plant, plant, towards towards 1540. 1540. ornamental potato was The potato was brought brought from from Quito The South America, America,first first Quito ininSouth into Spain, Spain, where where itit was wascultivated cultivated in into inGalicia, Galicia. and and later later from from North America America into into England. North In 1563 1563 Sir Sir John John Hawkins isis said In said to to have have introduced introduced the the potato into into England, England, but but its its cultivation potato cultivation was was neglected neglected there there and itit was was reintroduced reintroduced in in 1586 and 1586 by by Sir Sir Francis Francis Drake. Drake. Sir Sir Walter Raleigh grew potatoes in Walter in Ireland. Ireland. In 1593, 1593, Gaspard Bauhon praised itit and and engaged engaged several several - In farmers around Lyons and farmers and the Vosges region grow it, region to to grow it, but but in 1630 1630 the the Parliament Parliament of in Besangon, from of Besançon, from fear fear of of leprosy, leprosy, forbade the cultivation cultivation of potato. forbade The potato potato must must have The have been introduced introduced into into Lorraine Lorraine in in on the 28th June, 1665, for on June, 1715, 1715, the the Court Court of Nancy issued issued aa exacting aa tithe, which was decree exacting payable after was only only payable years after 50 years of cultivation. In 1597, the botanist Gérard, In G6rard, who received sorne potatoes some potatoes direct from Virginia, gave the direct the following description of of this this crop: 'These tubers are a nourishing as well as a pleasant dish, dish, equal in in wholesomeness and and salubrity to (sweet to the the batata (sweet potato), whether they be baked in in hot ashes, ashes, or or boiled boiled and and eaten with oil, vinegar or pepper, or prepared prepared in in any any other other way way by the hands of an able cook.' In 1619 potato potato figures among the foods to be be served served at at the the Royal table in in England. England. It did not, become an not, however, become an article article of of import until 1662. In Scotland it has has been been cultivated cultivated since 1683 1683 -- and and in in open open fields, Prentice in in 1728. fields, for the the first time, by Thomas Thomas Prentice 1728. ItIt was was introduced into into the the Low Low Countries Countries in in 1588 1588 bv by Clusius, from G6rard. Gérard. Clusius, who who got got it from The The English English introduced introduced it into Flanders during the the wars wars against Louis Louis XIV. XIV. against In In France France the the potato was was still still considered considered suspect in 177 | ; it was said said to to be be unfit for for human human consumption consumption and dangerous, was because of of its its weakening weakening properties. It It was was parmentier Parm,entier who who because rehabilitated among the the rehabilitated it. il. In In 1771, 1771, in aa thesis, thesis, he he listed listed itit among vegetables which which could could be be used used in in times times of of food food shortage shortage vegetables acoms, and and the the roots roots ofbryony, of bryony, with horse horse chestnuts, chestnuts, acorns, along with iris, gladioli and and couch couch grass. grass. In In 1773 1773 he he published published his bis woik work iris, ofpotato, potato, wheat wheat and and rice rice and entitled Chemical Chemical examination examination of entitled and began his his research research into into the the panification panification ofpotato of potato flour. fiour. began of scarcity, he he obtained obtained the the In 1787, 1787, during during aa period period of ln of 50 50 arpents arpents (old (otd French measure measure roughly roughly concession of concession

POTATOES POTATOES TERRE AU AU BEURRE BEURRE -_ DE TERRE DE POMMES POMMES| DE DE TERRE TERRE ANNA, ANNA, GALETTE DE

equivalent to to an an acre) acre) of of poor poor land in the Sablon Sablon plain. The equivalent cultivation proved proved successful, successful, contrary to all ail expectations, cultivation while later Parmentier Parmentier was able to offer King and a short while Louis XVI XVI a bouquet bouquet of of potato potato flowers, which set a fashion Louis for this this plant. plant. for We know know the the way in which he aroused aroused the cupidity of of the We the field was closely guarded during the day day by Parisians: the of the the Garde Frangaise, Française, but was left unsupervised soldiers of during the the night. during Parmentier had had his precursors precursors -- and he never denied this: Parmentier Turgot acclimatised acclimatised potatoes potatoes in the Limousin; Lavoisier, Lavoisier, on Turgot his lands the advice of Parmentier, Pannentier, cultivated them them in in his lands in the Vendôme; La La Rochefoucauld-Liancourt Rochefoucauld-Liancourt in Fréchines, in in Vend6me; Fr6chines, the Boulogne region in Beauvais, Chalaire in the in 1763; 1763; Dottu, Beauvais, from the great great agriculturist agriculturist of of Villers-Bretonneux, Villers-Bretonneux, in Picardy from the 1766. place to aa period period of enthusiasm enthusiasm and aa Denigration gave place which was used as craze for the potato flower, which as aa decorative for plates. Aiter popularisation, thanks to ParmenParmendesign for After its popularisation, tier, the the potato potato became became one the staple at the the staple foods foods at one of of the tier, of the nineteenth nineteenth century. beginning of beginning The potato potato is an energy food, 100 The 100 calories calories per 100 g. (4 oz.), to 25 (20 to per cent), lacking in in albucent), lacking rich in carbohydrates (20 25 per few minerai mineral salts (potassium mostly) minoids. It contains aa few Its iodine. Its amount of iodine. Vitamins Band B and C, very small small amount C, and and aa very starch all and for this reason starch is one of assimilable of ail of the most assimilable can be be included in the diet of of diabetics. diabetics. There are only traces it can of fats and calcium. of Sorne of the the potato solanaceous, in in other words of Some label the potato same family as In fact fact the the as tobacco, henbane and belladonna. In infinitesimal amount potatoes is is in potatoes infinitesimal detectable in amount of of solanum detectable found just under the it. with it. discarded with the skin and is therefore discarded Yellowy-fleshed potatoes whitesince whitepotatoes are are considered considered the best, since tleshed find Some people find potatoes are fleshed potatoes demineralized. Sorne are usually demineralized. potatoes hard potatoes, often often mashed potatoes, hard to to digest, digest, especially especially mashed due vary impregnation. impregnation. salivary insufficient mastication and and sali due to to insufficient Potatoes Potatoes ought be thoroughly thoroughly masticated. masticated. ougbt to be Weight for weight, the potato contains half times and aa halftimes contains two and less highly makes itit aa highly bread, which which makes less carbohydrates than than bread, i oz.) bread desirable food in diets (lloz.) g. (1 can 40 g. bread can as 40 for diabetics, diabetics, as diets for be potassium and (4 oz.) and g. (4 in potassium It isis rich rich in be replaced by 100 g. oz.) potato. It by 100 constitutes aa highly alkaline food. food. highly alkaline To particular of of in particular mineral salts, salts, and and in To avoid avoid the loss of of minerai the loss potassium (or water (or potassium salts, in too too much much water be boiled boiled in should not be salts, it should at for kept for should be be kept irt which boiled should at least least the the water water in which itit isis boiled soup). butter, in fat, fat, such such as as butter, This loss is decreased by cooking cooking in soup). This loss is decreased by lard or preserve the the potato to to preserve The best method of of cooking cooking potato or oil. oil. The best method maximum in the the to bake bake itit in and taste taste isis to maximum ofits elements and of its minerai mineral elements ashes and better and incomparably better The taste taste isis incomparably in the ashes or or in the oven. oven. The makes be possible to should this this be potatoes without salt, should without salt, makes itit possible to eat eat potatoes necessary. necessary. The part throughout Europe potato plays throughout Europe plays aa very important part The potato very important as as an an article article offood. of food. In plays aa potato plays countries the the potato In certain European countries certain Central Central European greater place of of greater part than the place often taking taking the Western Europe, Europe, often than in in Western bread. bread. Among potvarieties of of potFrench-cultivated varieties Among the numerous French-cultivated the numerous atoes or Eerstelingen or Belle de de Fontenay, Fontenay, Eerstelingen atoes are: are: Bintje, B.F.I|, Belle Bintje, B.F.15, Sterling, (the de Lyon Lyon(the or Quenelle Viola, Ratte Ratte or Sterling, Royal Royal Kidney, Kidney, Viola, Quenelle de best point of of view), view), perhaps, from from aa culinary culinary point best variety variety of all, perhaps, of ail, Roseval, etc, Rosc, etc. Roseval, Saucisse, Saucisse, Rosa, Black purple potato, potato, ca1Jed in potato, or called Négresse Nigresse in Black potato, rather purple or rather French, gastronomical curiosity. curiosity. French, isis aa gastronomical Potatoes poMMEs DE Peel t'lNct ltsn -- Peel Potatoes ài l'anglaise. DE TERRE TERRE ÀA L'ANGLAISE I'anglaise. POMMES the possible and either and either pgtatoes down as possible the potatoes down to to as as uniform uniform aa size size as boil l'anglaise Potatoes àd l'anglaise boil them them in in salted water or or steam steam them. them. Potatoes salted water are dishes. garnish for are used for boiled fish and and sorne some meat meat dishes. as aa garnish boiled fish used as Anna PoMMES potato cake with buUer. butter. POMMES potatoes, aJso cake with Annr potatoes, rlso caUed called potato

into big big to shape shape into potatoes, trim them to yellow potatoes, trim them Peel Peel long long yellow Put dry. Put thinly, wash and dry. uniform-sized uniform-sized cylinders. Slice them thinly, plenty of of with plenty lid, with with aa lid, dish with them them into into aa straight-sided dish potato slices in uniform overslices in uniform overclarified butter. Arrange the potato clarified butter. slices, season season of potato slices, lapping lapping layers. Fill the dish with rows ofpotato dish, the dish, each layer and sprinkle with clarified butter. Cover the and into aa very hot oven and then put into start cooking on the stove, then minutes. cook from 30 to 35 minutes. potato cake upside cake upside the potato When three-quarters cooked, cooked, turn the and butter and Drain otT off the the butter side. Drain other side. the other down to to col colour down our the arrange on a dish. arrange poMMEs DE ANNA -garnish. POMMES DE TERRE TERRE ANNA potatoes for Anna potatoes for garnish. Anna piling the the previous recipe, recipe, piling Proceed as in the the previous as described described in Proceed moulds dariole moulds potatoes into into well-buttered, tinned-copper dariole potatoes as the mould mould diameter as same diameter and using slices of potato of the same used. in the the as indicated indicated in and use use as Turn out out and Cook in in the the oven. oven. Turn Cook recipe. PoMMBS DE DE TERRE TERRI (home method). potatoes (home method). POMMES Anna potatoes Anna slice them them as possible, slice potatoes as as uniformly uniformly as ANNA -- Peel the potatoes ANNA wash, dry dry and and season. season. thinly, wash, imare completely completely imthey are Saut6 them in the the butter butter until until they them in Sauté pressing them with the the pregnated. Shape them with cake, pressing into aa big big cake, Shape into pregnated. heat, and and moderate heat, on moderate back of Brown on one siside on one of aa fork. fork. Brown back de on side. other side. turn itit and and brown brown the the other turn poMMEs DE Cut the the ANNETTE -- Cut potatoes. POMMES rERRE ANNETTE DE TERRE Annette potatoes. Annette (q.v.) strips, and wash, dry, dry, season season and potatoes into strips, wash, potatoes into thinjulienne thinjulienne (q.v.) the oven as Bake in in the oven as with them. them. Bake fill aa well-buttered fill well-buttered casserole casserole with recipe for for Anna Annapotatoes. potatoes. described described in in the the recipe potatoes, can can also also Anna potatoes, variation of of Anna This This dish, dish, which which isis aa variation pancake. pan like like aa pancake. be cooked in in aa frying frying pan be cooked DE TERRE TERRE SOUS sous LA LA FoMMES DE rshes. POMMES Potatoes in the the ashes. cooked in Potatoes cooked in hot hot potatoes. Dry and bake bake in Dry them thun and CENDRE long potatoes. cENDRE -- Wash Wash big big long glowing embers ashes on top. top. ashes with with glowing embers on fresh butter. butter. serve with with fresh potatoes and Wipe Wipe the and serve the potatoes poMMEs DE AU FOUR FoLJR -TERRE AU DE TERRE Potatoes oven. POMMES Potatoes baked in the the oyen. baked in Serve in aa hot hot oven. oven. Serve potatoes, dry bake in Wash them and and bake Wash the the potatoes, dry them with with fresh fresh butter. butter. poMMEs DE g. Fry 100 1 00 g. TERRI AU AU LARD LARD -- Fry Potatoes Potatoes with DE TERRE with bacon. bacon. POMMES

Potatoes garnish: Potatoes asasgarnish: ducbess, potatoes parisienne,croquettes, strawpotatoes croquettes,straw duchess, parisienne,

723 723

POTATOES POTATOES

(4 oz.) diced diced and and blanched blanched bacon bacon inin aa sauté pan inin I saut6pan (4 oz.) tablespoon butter, lard, or goose fat. Add l0 small onions. tablespoon butter, lard, or goose fat. Add 10 small anions. Remove the bacon and the onions. Put I tablespoon flour Remove the bacon and the on ions. Put 1 tablespoon flour into the pan, pan, allow it to colour slightly. Moisten with 3f dl. Moislen with dl. into the allow it to colour (generous j pint, l| cups) stock or water, season, add a 1 pint, 1t cups) or water, season, a bouquet garnt (q.v.) and bring to the boil. garni (q.v.) and bring to the bOl!. Put 500 to 600 g. (l 8 to 2l o2.,3 to 3f cups) potatoes, cut to 500 ta 600 g. ta 2\ oz., 3 to potatoes. cul to look like olives (or into quarters), the bacon and the onions, olives (or and the onions, look like the into this this sauce. Bring to the boil, cover the pan, and cook in a into sauce. Bring to boil, caver the pan, and cook in a slow oven. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. slow aven. with chopped parsley. Potatoes with basil. poulms DE TERRs Au sA$rrc - Cook the basil. POMMl:.S DE TI:""RRE AU BASILlC - Cook the potatoes, cut down to a uniform size, in butter, keeping the potatoes, eut down ta a uniform size, În butter, keeping the pan covered. When ready, sprinkle with coarsely chopped pan covered. When witb choppe
Cook ininthe theoven oven or oron potatoes aC!:Juire on the theslave stoveuntillhe until thepotatoes acquire Cook golden colour. panfrom colour. Shake Shake the the pan from time time tototime timeduring during aagolden cooking. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. cooking. poMMEs DE Potato cakes. GALETTES cALETTES DE DEPOMMES on TERRE rEnnn- -These These can canbe be Potato prepared in in sever several ways. prepared al ways. Using Duchess Duchess potato potato (see (see below), below), shaped shaped into into round round or or 1.1. Using oval cakes, cakes, brush brush wilh with beaten beaten egg egg and and cook cook in in the the aven until oven until oval golden. golden. Prepare the potato cakes the potato cakes as as above. above. Dredge Dredge them them in in flour flour 2.2. Prepare and fry unlil pale golden golden in until pale in clarified clarified butter. butter. and small or potato cakes, or large potalO cakes, as as described described in in the the 3.3. Make small recipe for for Anna Anna pOlatoes potatoes but making lhem them thinner. thinner. Finish off off as as indicated indicated in in individual recipes, recipes, putling putting different ingredients ingredients between between each each layer layer of ofpotatoes, such as: as: dîlTerent potatoes, such (q.v.) or brunoise (q.v.) (q.v.) of or mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) of vcgetables, vegetables, sliced sliced mushmushbrunoise rooms, spinach spinach cooked cooked in in butter, butter, chopped chopped ham, ham, various various reoms, vegetables Ihinly thinly sliced sliced and and cooked cooked in in butter, truffes, etc. butter, truffles, etc. These potato potato cakes cakes can can be made big be made big or or small, small, depending depending on on the final final use use for for which which Ihey they are are intended. intended. When When small. small, they they the are used used as garnish, or as aa garnish, or as as foundations foundations for for escalopes, escalopes, are medallions, noisettes, noise tte s, tournedos, tournedos, etc. etc. medallions, pETrrs PAINS Little polato potato cakes pArNs DE (CarGme's recipe). cakes (Carême's recipe). PETlTS DE Little poMMEs DE TERRE 'Bake 12 peeled kidney potatoes in the POMMES DE TERRE -- 'Bake 12 peeled kidney potatoes in the ashes. Remove Remove ail all the the reddisb reddish parts parts and and use use only only the the white ashes. flesh. Weigh (12 oz.) Weigh out out 350 350 g. (12 oz.) of this this and and pound with 100 100 g. flesh. (4 02,) oz.) Isigny Isigny butter. butter. When the mixture becomes becomes smoolh, smooth, add (4 g. (4 (4 oz.) castor to itit 100 100 g. (fine) sugar, 50 g. (2 oz.) sieved castor (fine) g. (2 sieved flour, to yolks and egg yolks grain of and aa grain of salt. salt. Pound everything together 22 egg into aa perfectly smooth pasle. paste. Take ilit out of Ihe put the mortar, put into on aa lightly floured flsured board, roll, and eut cut iuto Roll each into 4 parts. RoU on part, making ilit twice its original length, then CUl cut into into liule little part. place balls the size ofwalnuts, giving them the shape of walnuts, giving shape of of boaB. boats. Place balls the size them on aa buttered sheet. Brush with beaten them on butlered baking baking sheet. bealen egg and bake bake in in aa moderate moderale oven.' Chlteau potatoes. porrlws (See above, TERRE CHÂTE:AU cnArslu - (Sec Château POMMES DE TERRE above, Potatoes Potatoes in in butter.) Chdteau Château potatoes pOlafOes are are aa traditional traditional garnish garnish for for grilled chateaubriand chilleaubriand steak. steak. Chatouillard Chatouillard potatoes. potatoes. FoMMEs POMMES FRJTES FRITES cHrtroutr,rARD CHATOUILLA RD -- Cut the the potatoes potaloes into into ribbons, ribbons, peeling peeling them them off oIT spiral-fashion, spiraJ.fashion, 33

mn. inch) thick mm. (* (~inch) thick (see (see CHATOUtl.rAno;.CHATOUILLARD).

Cook Cook like like Soulfli potaloes (see (see below). below). Drain, Drain, season, season, and arrange around grilled meat. meat. Potatoes copeaux. poMMEs POMMES FRrrEs FRITES copE,lux COPEAUX - Like Like ChatouilCha/oui/lard potatoes but cut eut into into irregular irregular ribbons. ribbons. Crainquebille potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE rERRE 'rERRE cRATNeT.JEBTLLE CRAINQUEB1LLEPut some big, long, peeled potatoes into into aa saut6 sauté pan on aa foundation in butter. butter. Pour Pour in enough enough foundation of chopped onion onion fried in stock stock to to cover cover the the potatoes potatoes half-way. half-way. Season .) with bouquet garni garni (q.v (q.\'.) Scason with with salt salt and and pepper, add add aa bouquet 11 clove c10ve of of garlic garlic added to to it, place place on on each each potato po tata I1 slice slice seeded tomato and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melled butter. buller. Bring Bring to to the the seeded tomato

boil in the the oven. oven. A A few few moments moments boil on on the the stove, slove, then then cook cook in before out of of the the oven, oven, sprinkle sprinkle with with white white breadbreadbefore taking taking out

crumbs and brown brown the the top. 10p. crumbs and Potatoes Potatoesiàla la Crecy, Crécy, also a.lsocaled called iil lala Vichy. Vichy. FoMMEs POMMESDE DE TERRE TERRE AÀr,l LA cnfcv, cRÉCY, AÀr,c, LA ucuy VlCHY -- Prepare like like Anna Annapotatoes,putting po/aloes, aa layer layer of of Canots CarrolS dri Ia la Vichy Vichy (see CARROTS) CARROTS) between between each layer ofpotato. ofpotato. Potatoes iàlalacrdme. crème.poMMEs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREi,ÀLA LA cRiME CRÈME-- Boil Boil the the potatoes in in water, water, peel peel them them when when cooked, cooked, cut eut into into thick thick slices and put into into aa saut6 sauté pan. pan. Cover Cover with with boiling boiling milk milk or or and put boiling boilîngfresh fresh cream. cream. Cook Cook briskly brîskly until until the theliquid liquid isisreduced. reduced. Season and grated grated nutmeg. nUlmeg. Add Add aa few few Scason with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and tablespoons tablespoollsfresh [reshcream. cream. Potato Potato curly curly crisps (U.S. chips). chips). FoMMEs POMMES FRrrEs FRITES CoLLERETTES COLLERETTES -- Like Like Fried potatoes potaLOes (potato (potato crispsl crisps) (see (see below), but cut cutwith wÏlh aa fluted fluted cutter. cutter. below), but 724 724

POTATOES POTATOES the the dish dish and and form form aa lining lining layer layer It inch inch thick. thick. Fill Fill the the inner inner mould Cook in in the the oven oyen like like Annette Annette mould with with deep-frying deep-frying fat. fat. Cook potatoes. potatoes. When When itit isis cooked, cooked, remove remove the the inner inner mould, mou Id, press press down down the the potatoes brown the the inside inside part part lightly. lightly. potatoes with with aa fork fork and and brown in the as indicated fill and a dish to on Turn Turn out out carefully carefully on to a dish ahd fill as indicated in the recipe. recipe. They They can can be be made made without without the the inside inside mould, mou Id, by by pressing pressing the half cooked, cooked, against against the the sides sides of of the the dish. dish. the potatoes, potatoes, when when half DAUPHINE TERRE DE PoMMEs potatoes. Dauphine Dauphine potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE DAUPHINE -- Mix Mix weight Ducheis potattaes Duchess potatoes (see (see below) below) with with one-third one-third their their weight of of unsweetened unsweetened common common Chou Chou paste pas te (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Leave Leave until until cold. or 50-g. 50-g. (about (about lloz.) 1t-oz.) pieces. pieces. Shape Shape into into cold. Divide Divide into into 4040- or balls, hot deep deep fat. fat. balls, roll roll in in flour flour and and fry fry in in very very hot on a heap in Drain, and arrange arrange in a heap on aa Drain, dry, dry, sprinkle sprinkle with with salt salt and in as indicated plate or in in aa potato potato nest. nest. Or Or use use as as aa garnish, garnish, as indicated in plate or the the recipe. recipe. They shapes. They different shapes. can be These These potatoes potatoes can be moulded moulded into into difTerent deepand breadcrumbs egg and dipped in can can also also be be dipped in egg breadcrumbs before before deepfrying. frying.

Potato Potato croquettes croquettes (Larousse) (Larousse)

Potato croquettes. croquettes. cRoQUETTES CROQUETTES DE DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE Potato Divide Ducheis Duchesspotato potato (seebelow) (see below) into into small sm aIl (40(40- to to 50-g., 50-g., l|' 1 Divide to 2-oz.) 2-oz.) pieces. pieces. Mould into the the shape shape of of corks or or other other to rolling them them in flour. Dip in egg and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs shapes, rolling and fry in in very very hot hot deep deep fat. Use as indicated indicated in the the recipe. and Potato croquettes croquettes Chevreuse. CRoQ{JETTES CROQUETTES DE DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE Potato above, adding chopped chopped chervil chervil to the TERRE cITEvREUsE CHEVREUSE - As above, TERRE potato mixture. mixture. duchess potato duchess Potato croquettes croquettes ià la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. cRoQUETTES CROQUETTES DE PoMMES POMMES DE DE Potato TERRE A À rl LA rvoNNAIsE LYONNAISE -- As above, above, adding chopped onion rERRE Iightly fried in butter and the duchess and chopped parsley to the lightly potato mixture. mixture. potato PoMMES DE POMMES cRoQUErrEs DE Potato croquettes ià la parmesane. CROQUETTES Potato grated adding grated above, adding À LA LA PARMESANE As above, DE TERRE nARMEsANE -- As DE TERRE A potato mixture. mixture' Parmesan duchess potato Parmesan cheese to the duchess PoMMES perigourdine. CROQUETTES Potato croquettes ài la périgourdine. cnoQuETTEs DE POMMES pfnlcouRDINE -- As chopped As above, above, adding chopped DE DE TERRE TERRE À rc, LA LA PÉRIGOURDINE truffles to the duchess duchess potato mixture. DE cRousrADEs DE (hors-d'cuwe or entrée). entr6e). CROUSTADES Potato croustades (hors-d'œuvre

t-

POMMES FOMMES DE TERRE TERRE_

2] of 2t (see below) to to aa thickness thickness of 1. 1. Roll Roll out ottt Duchess Duchess potato (see cm. or 66 cm. circles 55 or out circles cm. (1 (1 inch) and pastry-cutter cut cut out with aa pastry-cutter and with (about (about 2iin diameter. diameter. 2t inches) in in each each middle in Dip the middle Mark the breadcrumbs. Mark Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs. penetrate pressing in in to to penetrate circlet pastry-cutter, pressing with aa smaller smaller pastry-cutter, circlet with only thickness. circlet's thickness. of the the circlet's only one-third one-third of small the small remove the Fry cloth, remove Drain on on aa cloth, fat. Drain in very very hot hot deep deep fat. Fry in without the croustades croustades without circle hollow out out the and hollow lid and forming the the lid circle forming breaking recipe. in the the recipe. indicated in Fill as as indicated them. Fill breaking them. or asas aa hors-d'euvre or These hot hors-d'œuvre as hot are used used as These croustades croustades are garnish fish. poultry and and fish. garnish for for meat, meat, poultry with tins with 2.2. Line brioche tins fluted, brioche well-buttered, f1uted, Line sorne some wel1-buttered, duchess layer ofpurée. of pur6e. in aa layer potato mixture. Put in mixture. Put duchess potato cook andcook eggand Brush the inside beatenegg with beaten croustades with of the the croustades Brushlhe inside of the brush the tins, brush golden the tins, of the out of carefully out golden in Turn carefully in the the oyen. oven. Turn few for aa few outside put inin the oven for the oyen and put egg and with beaten beaten egg outside with as usesas moments. me uses Thesa same recipe.The in the the recipe. indicated in Fill asas indicated moments. Fil! above. above. dish buttereddish 3.3. Mould round, buttered potato mixture onaaround, mixture on duchess potato Mould duchess tocontain contain in enough to deep enough uoustade deep obtain aacroustade in such suchaaway way as asto toobtain the indicated. the filling filling indicated. Decorate through aa piping sorne mixture through some mixture by piping edges by Decorate the the edges forcing recipe. the recipe. indicated ininthe Fill asasindicated forcing bag. bag. Fill These on depending on small depending large or orsmall bemade madelarge canbe croustades can Thesecroustades the usedasasaa Theyare areused intended.They areintended. theyare finaluse usefor forwhich which they the final pieces foundation smallpieces poultry, fish, served ininsmall fish,etc., etc.,served for meat, meat, poultry, foundation for and sauce. byaasauce. andaccompanied accompanied by (asdescribed 4.4.Shred the describedininthe strips(as int oiuliennestrips potatoes intojulienne Shredthe thepotatoes recipe with dishwith well-buttereddish lineaawell-buttered potatoes) and and!ine forAnnette recipefor Annettepotatoes) them. them. (rather InInthe form(rather putaacast ironform castiron potatoesput thepotatoes middleof ofthe therniddle like outside. onthe theoutside. butteredon layer-cake tin), tin),buttered likeaalayer-cake Press goup of sidesof thesides potatoesgo upthe thepotatoes makethe hardon onthis thistotomake Presshard

dauphinoise Potatoes àdlala dauphinoise Potatoes (Claire\ (Claire)

pommes ài la la depommes Gratin de called Gratin also caUed la dauphinoise, dauphinoise, also Potatoes ài la Potatoes (18 poMMEs DE Slice500 500g.g.(18 DAUPHINoIsr -- Slice rERRE DAUPIDNOISE DETERRE dauphinoise. POMMES dauphinoise. with moisten with andmoisten putthem inaabowl bowl and them in finely, put potatoes very very finely, oz.) potatoes oz.) it. toit. egg addedto beateneggadded with aabeaten milk with boiledmilk 1| cups) boiled dl.(tpint, 33dl. $ pint, l-i-cups) Add 50 50g.g.(2(2 gratednutmeg. nutmeg. Add pepper and andgrated with salt, salt,pepper Season with Season an into an Put into mix. Put andmix. cheeseand grated Gruyère Gruyire cheese cup)grated oz., t+cup) oz., garlic. withgarIic. rubbedwith and rubbed butteredand dish, buttered earthenware dish, earthenware 25g.g.(1(l oz., oz',2 scatter 25 cheese,scatter grated Gruyère Gruydrecheese, withgrated Sprinkle with Sprinkle 2 edges wipethe theedges top,wipe thetop, piecesover overthe tinypieces butter inintiny tablespoons) butter tablespoons) 45minutes. minutes. for45 ovenfor slowoyen bake ininaaslow andbake dishcarefully carefully and ofthe thedish of 500g.g. Cut500 DUcHEssE - -Cut DETERRE TERRE DUCHESSE potatoes. POMMES PoMMEs DE Duchess potatoes. Ducbess quarters. Boil Boil orquarters. slicesor potatoes into intothick thickslices (18oz.) peeled potatoes oz.)peeled (18 few foraafew ovenfor putininthe theoyen Drain,put water.Drain, saltedwater. briskly ininsalted thembriskly them rubthrough througha a andrub moisture,and excessive moisture, evaporate excessive moments totoevaporate moments sieve. sieve. moments' foraafew fewmoments, dryotT offfor saucepan, pur6einto intoaasauce Putthe thepurée Put pan, dry season butter,season oz.)butter, Add5050g.g.(2(2oz.) spoon.Add wooden spoon. witha awooden turning with turning whole witha awhole gratednutmeg, bindwith nutmeg, bind littlegrated pepperand andaalittle withsalt, salt,pepper with metal butteredmet pur6eon ona abuttered thepurée yolksand Spread the mix.Spread andmix. eggand and22yolks egg al recipe. therecipe. indicatedininthe shapeasasindicated andshape cold,and untilcold, sheet,leave leaveuntil sheet, piped borders totobebepiped forborders intendedfor mixtureisisintended Whenthis thismixture When not thennot stillhot. hot.ItItisisthen whilestill usedwhile forcing-bag,ititisisused through a aforcing-bag, through served croquettes,orortotobebeserved forcroquettes, intendedfor whenititisisintended thickasaswhen sosothick proper. potatoes proper. duchesspotatoes asasduchess rERREDUCHESSE DUcHESSE- garnish.POMMES DETERRE PoMMESDE potatoesfor forgarnish. Duchesspotatoes Ducbess 725 725

POTATOES POTATOES These potatoes are prepared from potato purie described These potatoes are prepared from Potata purée described below, moulded by hand into various shapes, or forced below, moulded by hand into various shapes, or forced through a bag on to a buttered baking sheet. through a bag on to a buttered baking sheet. As soon as the pur6e has been piped through, brush with As soon as the purée has been piped through, brush with beaten egg and put in the oven to brown. Use as indicated in beaten egg and put in the oven to brown. Use as indicated in the recipe. the recipe. Potatoes with fennel. poMMEs DE TERRE AU FENourL Like Potatoes with fenne!. POMMES DE TERRE AU FENOUIL - -Like Potatoes with basil replacing the basil by fresh chopped Potatoes with basil replacing the basil by fresh chopped fennel. fenne!. Potato fondantes. poMMES DE TERRE FoNDANTES Cut the Potato fondantes. POMMES DE TERRE FONDANTES - - Cut the potatoes to uniform size to look like small eggs. put them into potatoes to uniform size to look like sm ail eggs. Put them into a buttered saut6 pan, cover and cook gently on the top ofthe a buttered sauté pan, cover and cook gently on the top of the stove. Turn them them carefully, carefully, one one atat aa time, time, once onceduring during stove. Turn cooking. They should be golden on the outside and verv sofi cooking. They should be golden on the outside and very soft inside when cooked. inside when cooked. They can also be prepared as follows: They can also be prepared as follows: Cook the potatoes, cut as described, in lard. When they are the potatoes, cut as described, in lard. When they are - Cook done, drain off the lard and replace it by butter. done, drain off the lard and replace it by butter.

poMMEsFRITES Friedpotatoes potatoespont-neuf. poNr-New- -Cut pont-neuf.POMMES FRrrEsPONT-NEUF Fried Cut potatoesinto thepotatoes pieces1 Icm. intopieces cm.(~(]inch) inch)thick thickand and6 6toto7 7cm. the cm. (about2~2jinches) inches)long. long.Fry Fryininboiling boilingfat. fat. (about

Potato fritters: garnished with fritters: scallops scallops garnished Potato with duchess potatoes duchess potatoes

fritters -- See Potato fritters See FRITTERS. FRITTERS. potatoes, also potatoes ài la Gastronome potatoes, also called called potatoes la Cussy Cussy _Gastronome (Plumerey's recipe). poMMEs DE poMMEs recipe). POMMES (Plumerey's DE TERRE TERRE GASTRONOME, GAsrRoNoME, POMMES DE TERRE TERRE CUSSY cussy -- 'Take 'Take big yellow potatoes, DE potatoes, cut cut off off the the two two them with aa special lied in ends, and cut them (called special cutter (ca in French, French, aa colonne) into cork-shaped chunks, about (l inch) about 2~ 2) cm. cm. (1 inch) in in Cut them into slices diameter. Cut slices S 5 mm. mm. (t thick, putting $ inch) thick, them into water as you cut them. them. Dry on aa cloth to absorb ail all water. into aa big pan pan with 'Put them them into g. (8 (8 oz., with 22S 225 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) hot hot clarified clarified butter, so that they cook gently, colouring without sticking sticking to the pan or drying drying up. In the meantime, slice slice 6 6 or 8 8 truffles, toss butter with I1 tablespoon toss them them in butter tablespoon of Madeira and jelly the size of a piece piece of of chicken chickenjelly ofaa walnut. When When the potatoes are cooked and acquire a fine golden colour, col our, remove them from the the fire, add the truffles and the the juice of {~ lemon and serve serve piping pi ping hot. hot. 'We 'We owe owe this this side side dish dish to to the the late late Monsieur Monsieur de de Cussy, Cussy, aa fine fine gourmet gourmet and and former former administrator administrator of of Napoleon's Na poleon's palace.' palace.' This This method method of of preparing preparing potatoes potatoes is is somewhat somewhat similar similar to to the the one one called called 'd 'à Ia la scarlandaise'. scarlandaise'. Potatoes Potatoes Georgette. Georgette. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRT TERRE cEoRGETTE GEORGETTE - These - These are are principally principally served served as as aa hot hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. Choose Choose mediummediumand cut cut aa circle circle on on one one side' side' sized potatoes, potatoes, bake bake in in the the oven oven and sized Through this this opening opening scoop scoop out out three-quarters three-quarters of ofthe the pulp. pulp. Through While hot fill fill them them with with Crayfuh Crayfish tail tail ragofrt ragoût dà la la Nantia Nantua While still still hot (see (see CRAYFISH). CRA YFISH). Heat Heat the the potatoes potatoes in in the the oven oven and and serve. serve. POMMES DE DE rERR_E TERRE GRTLLEEs GRILLEES - Choose big, Grilled potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs Grilled - Choose big, long long potatoes potatoes and and cut cut them them lengthways lengthways into into slices slices t| I~ cm. cm. (| (~ inch) thick. thick. Parboil Parboil them them in in salted salted boiling boiling watei water for for 44 inch) minutes. Drain Drain and and dry dry on on aa cloth. clotho Brush Brush with with oil oil or ormelted minutes. melted butter. Cook Cook under under aa low low grill. gril!. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and and top top butter.

Sliced potatoes should be dried in Sliced potatoes should be dried in a cloth before fryng(Claire) a cloth before frying (Claire)

Fried Fried potatoes. potatoes. poMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE FRTTES FRITES - This This is the most popular Ifthe popular form form ofpotatoes ofpotatoes eaten, eaten, also also the the least least digestible. digestible. If the frying is carried carried out out correctly, correctly, at at the the right right temperature, the frying is potatoes and easier potatoes should should be be crisp, crisp, very very pleasant pleasant to to the the taste and to badly done, done, the the potatoes potatoes are are impregnated impregnated with with fat to digest; digest; ififbadly and and become become indigestible. indigestible. They They are are immersed immersed in in deep deep cooking cooking fat fat or or oil, oil, at at a temperature of 180"C. 180°C. (356"F.), (3S6°F.), when when the the fat fat is is beginning beginning to temperature of sm9k9 at once once to to 160"C. 160°C. (tZb'f.1ttren (320°F.) then smoke. This This temperature temperature falls falls at to ISO°C. (302"F.) (302°F.) when when fresh fresh cold cold potatoes potatoes are are put put in in so so the the to 150'C. fat must The potatoes potatoes should should acquir! acquire aa fat must be be reheated reheated each each time. time. The golden golden colour. col our. IfIfcut cut very very finely finely (straw (straw potatoes), potatoes), and and immersed immersed in in special special ^ fat five minutes' minutes' cooking cooking time time fat heated heated to to 190'C. 190°C. (374.F.\, (374°F.), in in five the temperature the temperature of ofthe the fat fat will will fall fall to to only only 177"C. In°c. (350.F.). (3S0°F.). Under Under the the entry entry DEEP-FRYING DEEP-FRYING all a1l instructions instructions relative relative to the fat ofthe fat inin which which the the potatoes potatoes are are cooked cooked tothe theclarification clarificationof are are given, given, as as well weil as as all ail information information dealing dealing with with utensils, utensils, pans, pans,etc., etc., which which are areused used for fordeep-frying. deep-frying. Fried POMMES FRrrEs FRITES Friedpotatoes, potatoes,or orpotato potatocrisps crisps(U.S. (U.S. chips). chips). poMMEs cI{Ip, CHIP, EN EN LTARDS LIARDS -- Cut Cut the the potatoes potatoes into into the the shape shape of of corks corks then Soakinincold cold water water for for i0 10 minutes. minutes. theninto intovery verythin thin slices. slices. Soak Drain, onaacloth clothand andfry fry ininvery veryhot hotdeep deepfat. fat. Drain Drain and and Drain,dry dryon season. season. These These potatoes potatoes are are often often used used as as an an accompaniment accompaniment to to roast roastgame gamedàI'anglaise. l'anglaise. 726 726

POTATOES POTATOES Potatoes Potatoes Mont-Dore. Mont-Dore. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRI TERRE MoNT-DoRE MONT-DORE -Prepare Prepare creamy creamy mashed mashed potatoes potatoes mixed mixed with with grated grated cheese, cheese,

with half-melted half-melted Maitre Maîlre d'hdtel d'hôlel butter buller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComComwith pound butters). bUllers). pound Hashed browned browned potatoes potatoes (Anerican (American cookery). cookery). poMMEs POMMES DE DE Hashed TERRE rrlctcps HACHÉES BRUNES BRUNES A À t'luBrrc.lrr.rn L'AMERICAlNE -- Boil Boil the the potatoes potatoes in in TERRE salted water, water, drain drain well weil and and chop chop up. up. salted Fry them them in in butter butter in in aa frying frying pan, pan, browning browning well. weil. Season Season Fry and pepper. pepper. Give Give them them the the shape shape of of aa turnover turnover and and with salt salt and with

heap heap in in aa dome in in aa buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with with grated pour on some sorne melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. grated cheese, cheese, pour Potatoes Potatoes mousseline. mousseline. poMMES POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE MoUssELINE MOUSSELINE -- Bake Bake the pulp and and rub rub itit through through aa sieve. sieve. Stir Stir the the the potatoes, potatoes, remove remove pulp pulp pulp in in aa pan pan on on heat, heat, adding adding to to it, it, for I1 kg. kg. (2]lb.) (2* lb .) pulp, pulp, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) butter butter and and 4 egg egg yolks. yolks. Season with and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Remove Remove from from heat heat and and add add 22 salt, pepper pepper and salt, dl. ($ (! pint, scant cup) whipped whipped cream. Pile Pile in in a dome in in aa buttered fireproof fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with with melted melted butter and buttered brown quickly quickly in the the oven. brown This put into a flan case made of of Lining This pur6e purée can also be put paste pasle (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH).

allow to to colour. colour. allow Chopped onions onions fried fried in in butter butter are are sometimes sometimes added added to to this this Chopped dish. dish. Potatoes ià la la hongroise. hongroise. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE A À r,c, LA HoNcRoIss HONGROISE -Potatoes Soften 75 75 g. (3 (3 oz., oz., $ï cup) cup) chopped chopped onions in in butter butter in in aa saut6 sauté Soften pan . Season Season with with I teaspoon teaspoon paprika. Add I1 peeled, peeled, seeded seeded pan. chopped tomato, tomato, and 500 g. (18 oz.) long long potatoes cut and chopped into thick thick round round slices. Season Season with with salt. Moisten Moisten with with meat meat into stock in in sufficient sufficient quantity quantity to to cover cover the the potatoes. potatoes. Bake Bake in the the stock chopped parsley. parsley. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped oven. Potatoes ià la landaise. landaise. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRT TERRE A À LA LANDAISE LANDAISE Potatoes Fry 100 g. (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) diced onions onions and and 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., generous it cup) diced Bayonne ham, in goose fat or lard. generous Wh en the onions and the ham are browned, browned, add 500 g. (i 8 g. (18 When dice. Season Season with salt and pepper. pepper. oz.) potatoes cut in large dice. Cook with with a a lid lid on, on, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. Add Add I1 Cook chopped garlic and parsley. parsley. tablespoon chopped Potato loaves. loaves. pArNs PAlNS DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE - Bake big floury Potato spoon. potatoes in the oven and scoop scoop out the pulp with a spoon. Rub this through through aa sieve as as quickly Put the pur6e purée quickly as as possible. Put (a butter, allowing 100 g. (4 thus obtained into aa saucepan with butter, thus oz., f cup) cup) butter butter per I1 kg. (2i lb.) pur6e. purée. Add Add salt, pepper (2*lb.) pepper and oz., few moments to dry off grated nutmeg. Stir on the fire for a few excessive th en remove from heat heat and and add add I1 whole excessive moisture, then eggand yolks . Mix weil. pieces,, and 4 yolks. Divide into 50-g. (2-oz.) pieces egg and 4 well. Divide boat-shaped cakes slit in the middle. middle. mould them into small boat-shaped Put on aa baking sheet, in a and cook in egg and sheet, brush with beaten egg very hot oven until golden golden.. poMMEs DE Potatoes LoRETTE -- Divide Potatoes Lorette. DE TERRE TERRE LORETTE Lorette. POMMES Dauphine 2-oz.) (about 50-g., (see above) potato (see 50-9.,2'oz.) Dauphine polalo above) into into small (about parts, shape fat. deep fat. shape into crescents and fry in deep Potatoes A LA r^1. LYONNAISE Lvor.rNntsn -FoMMEs DE DE TERRE À Potatoes ài la lyonnaise. POMMES Prepare (see potatoes (see for Sauléed Sautied polaloes in the the recipe recipe for Prepare as as described described in below). When three-quarters cooked, add ($ tablespoons (~ add 44 tablespoons cup) ions fried fried in butter. sliced on cup) sliced onions Finish frequently to mix shaking the pan frequently Finish cooking together, together, shaking weil. well. Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. poMr,IEs DE Macaire Bake big potatoes. POMMES MAcAIRE -- Bake TERRE MACAIRE DE TERRE Macaire potatoes. potatoes in the with out the pulp with and scoop out them and the oven. oven. Halve them aa fork. pulp with tablespoons butter, several tablespoons fork. Mash with several Mash this this pulp allowing (2i lb.) pulp. per 1I kg. lb.) pulp. (a oz., kg. (2i g. (4 butter per cup) butter allowing 100 100 g. oz., I cup) Season pepper. and pepper. Season with with salt salt and Put has pan in some butter butter has pulp into which sorne frying pan in which Put the into aa frying the pulp been golden on on both both Fry until until golden flat cake in aa fiat cake.. Fry been heated. heated. Spread Spread in sides. sides. poMMEs DE Maire The same same as as potatoes. POMMES MAIRE -- The TERRE MAIRE DE TERRE Maire potatoes. POlaloes Potatoes àd la la creme. creme. poMMEs DE Potatoes À LA I,IAIIRE rA, MAITRE DE TERRE TERRE,c, Potatocs ài la d'h6tel. POMMES la maitre maitre d'hôtel. D'HÔTEL potatoes in water. Peel Peel and and slice slice Boil the in salted salted water. D'HOrrr -- Boil the potatoes them. boiling milk. milk. pan and cover with with boiling them. Put Put them them into into aa sauté saut6 pan and cover Add until the the Add 22 or and cook cook until or 33 tablespoons butter, season, season, and tablespoons butter, liquid liquid isis boiled boiled down. down. Sprinkle parsley. Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. Potato (U.S. potato potato sticks). FRITES Potato matches PoMMES FRITES sticks). POMMES matches (V.S. ALLUME'ITES (t inch) inch) potatoes ioto sticks tj cm cm.. (* into little little sticks ALLUMETTES -- Cut Cut the the potatoes wide (2| inches) fat in very very hot hot deep deep fat long. Fry Fry in wide and and 66 or inches) long. or 77 cm. cm. (21 in golden potatoes potatoes.. in order to obtain order to obtain crisp crisp golden Drain, fine, dry dry salt. salt. with fine, Drain, dry dry and and season season with Potatoes poMMES DE Boil rvreNtsr -- Boil I-l MENTHE DE TERRE TERRE ÀA LA Potatoes with mint. POMMES with mint. new dish vegetable dish in aa vegetable potatoes with Serve in of mint. mint. Serve new potatoes with aasprig sprig of and potato. put aa green green mint on each each potato. mint leaf leaf on and put

t

t

Potatoes au au naturel Potatoes

AU PoMMES DE TERRE TERRE NATURE, AU or au au naturel. POMMES Potatoes nature or given to to is often often given these names names is One or or other other of of these - One l'anglaise). boiled potatoes (see above, POlaloes Potatoes àd l'anglaise). poMMEs DE potato TERRE -- Shred Shred the potato Potato nests. NIDS DE TERRE NIDs DE DE POMMES for (q.v.) strips, in the recipe for the recipe as described in into into fine julienne (q.v.) strips, as (see below) for lining them for dry and and use them potatoes (see Slraw below).. Wash, dry Straw polaloes Ids or special baskets.. special mou moulds or wire wire baskets wire baskets. baskets. of the the wire potatoes weil sides of Press well against against the sides Press the the potatoes parts, close baskets and and the baskets close the Trim Trim away away any any overlapping overlapping parts, plunge them into fat. plunge hot deep deep fat. into very hot season. Take the pan, drain and season. Take out ofthe drain and out of NoISETTE -(garnish). POMMES TERRE NOISETTE Noisette potatoes (garnish). PoMMES DE DE TERRE Noisette potatoes and pieces ofpotato the size size and Scoop of potato the scoop pieces with aa vegetable vegetable scoop Scoop out out with NATUREL NATUREL -

t

potatoesand and Spoons out potatoes forsrooping scoopingout Spoons for potato noisettes for noisettes forshaping shapingpotato (I-arousse\ (Larousse)

727

POTATOES POTATOES ofhazelnuts. Fry them in butter, season, and cook until shape ofhazelnuts. Fry them in butter, season, and cook until golden all over. golden all over. Potatoes normande. poMMEs on rsRRE i LA NoRMANDE Potatoes ài lalanormande. POMMES DE TERRE À LA NORMANDECut 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes into thin slices. Wash and dry Cut 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes into thin slices. Wash and dry them, season with salt and freshly ground pepp€r, and put them, season with salt and freshly ground pepper, and put into a buttered sauté pan inin layers, saut6 pan layers, alternating alternating with wittr the the into a buttered shredded white part of 2 big leeks and I heaped tablespoon shredded white part of 2 big leeks and 1 heaped tablespoon chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and enough white veal stock, Add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and enough white veal stock, meat stock or water - if the dish is intended to be served as meat stock or water - if the dish is intended to be served as Lenten fare to cover the potatoes. Scatter 50 g. (2 oz., f cup) Lenten fare -- to cover the potatoes. Scatter 50 g. (2 oz., i cup) butter in tiny dabs. butter in tiny dabs. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook in the oven. Bring to the boil, cover, and cook in the oven. Potato pancakes. cRf;pEs DE poMMEs DE TBRRE - peel, wash Potato pancakes. CRÊPES DE POMMES DE TERRE - Peel, wash and dry the potatoes, put them through a mincer. Dab the and dry the potatoes, put them through a mincer. Dab the pulp obtained with a cloth, put it into a bowl, season with pulp obtained with a cloth, put it into a bowl, season with salt, pepper and grated nutmeg, and add, for 500 g. (18 oz.) salt, pepper and grated nutmeg. and add, for 500 g. (18 oz.) potatoes, 2 eggs beaten.with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant potatoes, 2 eggs beaten with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant -!-* cup) "up) milk and 50 g. (2 oz., f cup) Noisette bulrcr (see BUTIER, milk and 50 g. (2 oz., cup) Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters)- Add cheese if desired. Compound butters). Add cheese if desired. Make the pancakes in the usual manner, keeping them a Make the pancakes in the usual manner, keeping them a little thicker than for sweet pancakes. little thicker than for sweet pancakes. shape

puRfE DE poMMEs DE Potato purée. puree. PURÉE DEPOMMES DETERRE TERRE- - Cut potatoes Cut potatoes Potato into thick thickslices slices or quarters and orquarters and cook cook them theminin fast-boiling fasi-boiling into salted water. water. salted putinin the Drain, put theoven oven for for aafew few moments moments to to evaporate evaporate Drain, surplus moisture moistureand and rub rub through through aasieve, pressingdown sieve, pressing down with with surplus wooden masher. masher. Put pur6e into Put the the purée pan set into aa pan seton on the the stove stove aawooden and blend blend in in about (6 oz., about175 175g.g. (6 per kg. oz., if,cup) cup) butter (2+ lb.) butter per kg.(2i lb.) and pur6e. Add Add aafew few tablespoons tablespoons of of boiling boiling milk, milk, stir stir vigorously vigorously purée. with aa wooden wooden spoon spoon and and serve. serve. with pur6eshould The purée should not not be be allowed allowed to to boil boil after after the the butter butter has has The been added added to to il. it. been punEe DE poMMEs DE Potato purée pur6e ài la la crème. crime. PURÉE DE POMMES nB TERRE rnnnr ÀA LA r.r Potato cRilrffi -- As As above, above, replacing replacing milk milk by by fresh fresh cream. cream. CRÈME puRfn DE poMMEs DE Potrto purée puree au gratin. PURÉE au gratin. DE POMMES DE TERRE TERRE AU AU Potato cRATIN -- Prepare Prepare the pur6e as the purée as described described above. grated above. Add Add grated GRATIN cheese and put into and put into aa buttered buttered fireproof fireproof dish; dish; smooth smooth the the cheese surface, working working itit into into aa slight slight dome shape. Sprinkle dome shape. Sprinkle with with surface, grated cheese cheese and and melted melted butter butter and and brown brown the the top. top. grated porAcs puRfe DE pn POMMES potvrrrrns DE pur6e soup. Potato purée soup. POT os TERRE rERRE -- See See Potato AGE PURÉE parmentier. SOUPS AND AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Purée Purde ofpotato of potato soup soup Parmentier. SOUPS Potato quenelles quenelles ài l'alsacienne, I'alsacienne, called called Boutes floutes (Alsatian Potato poMMEs DE cookery). QUENELLES DE POMMES DE TERRE eT.JENELLES DE TERRE À A L'ALSACIENNE, L,ArsAcrENNE, cookery). DIrEs FLOUTES Flourrs -- Prepare Prepare 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 500 g. oz., 2i 2| cups) cups) very very fine fine DITES potato pur6e. Add Add 22 whole whole eggs eggs and g. (3 (3 oz., and 75 75 g. oz., if, cup) potato purée. unsifted flour flour in in order order to to obtain obtain aa fairly fairly firm paste. Season unsifted pepper and with salt, salt, pepper grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. with Shape into into balls, balls, roll roll to to look look like corks, or mould with a Shape soup spoon. spoon. Drop Drop the quenelles one the quenelles one by one into pan of into aa pan soup by one salted boiling boiling water. water. Poach Poach for 8 8 to 10 l0 minutes. Drain and put salted minutes. Drain into aa buttered dish. Pour Pour over over some hot Noisette Noisitte into buttered dish. sorne piping piping hot (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) in which a handful butter offine, freshly grated grated breadcrumbs breadcrumbs have been of fine, freshly been lightly fried. Potato with Parmesan cheese. euENELLEs Potato quenelles quenelles with Parmesan cheese. QUENELLES DE DE poMMEs DE TERRE AU IARMESAN prepare quenelles as POMMES DE TERRE AU PARMESAN - Prepare the quenelles described above. described above. After After poaching, poaching. put put them them into into a a dish, dish, buttered and sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated parmesan Parmesan cheese. buttered and Sprinkle Sprinkle with with more more grated grated Parmesan, Parmesan, spoon spoon over over some sorne melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown the the top top in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Rissole Rissole potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE Rrssor,fEs RISSOLÉES -- Another Another name name for for Sautied Sautéedpotatoes potatoes (see (see below). below). Roast Roast potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE ndrrcs RÔTIES -- peel Peel big, big, long long potatoes, put them them into into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which some sorne butter butter potatoes, and and put or or lard lard has has been been heated. heated. Season Season with with salt. salt. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently, frequently, until until golden golden all ail over. over. Potatoes Potatoes Saint-Flour. Saint-Flour. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE sArNT-FLouR SAINT-FLOUR -- Line Line the the bottom bottorn of of aa deep deep fireproof fireproof dish dish with with aa layer layer of of green green cabbage and cooked cooked slightly slightly crisp. crisp. Over Over the the cabbage braised braised in in fat fat and cabbage potatoes cut cabbage put put aa layer layer of ofpotatoes cut in in thick thick slices, slices, mixed mixed with with lean lean diced diced bacon, bacon, scalded scalded and and fried. fried. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Moisten Moisten with with stock, stock, flavoured flavoured with with aa little little crushed crushed garlic. Cook in in aa slow slow oven. oven. garlic. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Cook Potato Potatosalad salad-- See See SALAD. SALAD. Potatoes Potatoes ià lala sarladaise. sarladaise. FoMMEs POMMES DE DETERRE TERREAÀr.l LA smreplrsn SARLADAISE -- Prepare Preparelike like Anna Annapotatoes potatoesputting puttingthe the potatoes potatoesinto into aa deep deep dish thinly sliced ofthinly slicedtrufres. truffles. dish inin layers, layers, alternating alternatingwith withrows rowsof Saut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesI.1.poMMEs POMMESDE DETEnnn TERREs.q,ur6es SA UTÉES-- Slice Sliceboiled, boiled, peeled, Sea~on, and and fry fry in in butter butter until until golden, golden, peeled, potatoes. potatoes. Season, shaking shakingthe thepan panfrequently frequentlytotoensure ensureeven evenbrowning. browning.Sprinkle Sprinkle with withchopped choppedparsley. parsley. Srut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesII. II.pourr,trs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREsAUTEES SAUTÉESAÀcnu CRU-- Cut Cut 500 500g.g. (18 (18oz.) oz.)uncooked uncookedDutch Dutchpotatoes potatoesinto intovery verythin thinslices, slices, wash, wash,dry dryon onaacloth clothand andseason. season. Cook Cookininbutter butterininaafrying fryingpan. pan.Shake Shakethe thepan panfrequently frequentlytoto ensure ensure even even cooking cooking and and to to give give all ail the the potatoes potatoes aa golden golden colour. colour. Sprinkle Sprinklewith withchopped choppedparsley. parsley. Saut6ed Sautéedpotatoes potatoesi àlalaprovengale. provençale.r.oMMEs POMMESDE DETERRE TERREslurfrs SAUTÉES pnowNgALE AÀr,a LA PROVENÇALE-- Use Useeither eitherraw raw or orboiled boiled potatoes potatoes and and

±

Potatoes d la parisienne

Potaloes à la parisienne

i la parisienne (garnish). poMMEs DE rsRRE Potatoes à la parisienne (garnish). POMMES or TERRE A À ra LA IARTSIENNE - Like Noisette potatoes, but smaller in size. As PARISIENNE - Like Noisette potatoes, but srnaller in size. As soon as the potatoes are cooked, toss them in greatly soon as the potatoes are cooked, toss them in greatly Potatoes

concentrated veal stock or dissolved meat jelly. Sprinkle with concentrated veal stock or dissolved meatjelly. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Parmentier potatoes. poMMEs DE TERRI rARMENTTER - Cut Parmentier potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE PARMENTIER - Cut potatoes into pieces about I cm. (.| inch) square. Cook them potatoes into pieces about 1 cm. (-!- inch) square. Cook them in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. in butter. Sprinkle with chopped parsley. These potatoes are more often cooked with the meat with These potatoes are more often cooked with the meat with which they are served. which they are served. Parsley potatoes. poMMEs DE TERRE pBngrrfrs Boil the

Parsley potatoes. POMMES DE TERRE PERSILLÉES -- Boil the potatoes, drain well and add rqelted butter and chopped potatoes, drain weil and add melted butter and chopped parsley. Potatoes with bacon the recipe for which is given parsley. Potatoes with bacon the recipe for which is given above, are often served under this name. this na me. above, are often served under Potrtoes i la paysanne. poMMEs DE TERRE .A, r..,c, pA.ysA,Nttrn Potatoes à la paysanne. POMMES DE TERRE À LA PA YSANNECut the potatoes into very thin round slices. put them into a Cut the potatoes into very thin round slices. Put thern into a buttered saut6 pan in alternate layers with chopped sorrel buttered sauté pan in alternate layers with chopped sorrel cooked in butter mixed with pounded chervil and i pinch of cooked in butter mixed with pounded chervil and a pinch of grated garlic. Season with salt and pepper, add meat siock (or grated garlic. Season with salt and pepper, add meat stock (or water, if th the dish is to be served as Lenten fare). Scatter tiny water, if th the dish is to be served as Lenten fare). Scatter tiny dabs ofbutter over and cook in the oven. dabs of butter over and cook in the oven. 728 728

POTATOES POTATOES

(k

3 mm. ($ inch) thick -- the temperature is lowered to to 120°C. 120.C. (248'F.). soft. They They are (248°F.). The potatoes are then then cooked and soft. taken potatoes are taken out, the heat heat is is increased increased and out, the the potatoes and the reimmersed, register at reimmersed, a few at a time, time, in hot fat which should should register least 190'C. puffing up. At this tempera190°C. (374"F.) (374°F.) to ensure purfing ture the surface surface of of the slices slices is transformed transformed into a waterproof skin, which will swell skin, swell as as aa result of the volatilisation of the water contained inside. water inside. Steamed potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE LA VAPEUR TERRE À A rA vApeuR -- Steam the potatoes potatoes in a special steamer as described described in the recipe for Potatoes Potatoes dà l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Potatoes in in stock. POMMES DE DE TERRE AU JUS stock. poMMEs TERRE AU JUs - Cut Cut the potatoes into quarters and put into a sauté saut6 pan with butter.

-

Pour in in enough clear clear brown veal to cover. veal stock stock to cover. Season, Season, cover, cover, and cook in the oven. Straw potatoes. potatoes. poMMEs POMMES FRITES FRITES IATLLE PAILLE -- Cut the potatoes into very thinjulienne (q.v.) sticks. Wash Wash and dry on a clotho cloth. Fry in hot, hot, deep fat. fat. Drain in in aa frying frying basket. basket. Just before serving, smoking hot fat. serving, plunge plunge into smoking Stuffed potatoes potatoes I. J. porraurs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES - Bake long FARcrEs -

potatoes in the oven and scoop out two-thirds of the pulp. Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve and mix mix with with ingredients ingredients such duxe/les such as duxelles (q.v.), (q.v.), fines fines herbes herbes (q.v.), (q.v.), grated grated cheese, cheese, chopped chopped ham, mirepoix (q.v.), chopped onion onion softened softened in butter, butter, or various mirepoix chopped chopped meats, meats, etc. etc. Season well, weil, add add butter butter and fill the and fill potato potato skins skins with the mixture. mixture. cheese or breadcrumbs, pour pour on on a Sprinkle with grated cheese little butter and brown brown the top. !ittle melted melted butter sorne very big potatoes. Cut them to look like Or: Peel some off the ends ends to make make them themall same height, cylinders, slice offthe cylinders, all the same say say about about 66 to 77 cm. (2| (2i- inches).

Potatoes, Potatoes, roast, roast, noisette, noisette, saute, saute, mashed, mashed, biled, boiled, fried fried

prepare prepare like like Sautied Sautéed potatoes potatoes Ilor li. Add I1 good good tablespoon or II. chopped chopped parsley parsley and and garlic. garlic. These potatoes can can also also be be cooked cooked in in oil oil instead instead of of butter. butter. These potatoes Potatoes Potatoes ià la la savoyarde. savoyarde. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE i, À la LA s^nvoy^l,npn SA VOY ARDE Prepare like like Potatoes Potatoes dà la la dauphinoise, dauphinoise, replacing replacing the the milk milk by by - Prepare

white white stock. Potato Potato souffl6 soufflé -- See See SOUFFLE. SOUFFLÉ. Souf[6 Soufflé potatoes potatoes (or puffed puffed potatoes). potatoes). poMrtrns POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE sotrrrrEss Choose uniform-sized uniform-sized potatoes. potatoes. Peel, Peel, trim and SOUFFLÉES -- Choose cut cut them them lengthways lengthways into into slices, 33 mm. mm. (* (k inch) inch) thick. thick. Wash and and dry dry on on aa cloth. clotho Plunge Plunge into into not not too too hot hot deep fat, which which should be be heated heated gradually. gradually. Cook the the potatoes potatoes until they they begin begin to to rise rise to the the surface. surface. Drain Drain in in aa frying frying basket. basket. Just Just before before serving, serving, plunge plunge them them into into a second second pan pan ofvery of very hot hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain Drain the the potatoes, potatoes, which which should should be be well weil puffed puffed up, spread them them on on aa cloth cloth and and sprinkle sprinkle with with salt. salt. up, spread This This method method of cooking cooking potatoes potatoes was was discovered by by accident. claimed that that the the discovery discovery took took place place at at Pecq Pecq in in accident. ItIt isis claimed 1837, the train train had had great great difficulty difficulty in in clambering clambering up up the the 1837, when wh en the final final slope. slope. The proprietor proprietor of of the the restaurant restaurant in which the the Company Company was was giving giving lunch lunch to to its its guests guests had had prepared prepared some sorne fried potatoes for for the the appointed appointed time time and and let let them them get get cold, cold, fried potatoes and and then, then, taken taken by by surprise surprise by by the the unexpected unexpected arrival arrivai ofthe of the party, party, only only had had time time to to plunge plunge them them into into boiling boiling fat quickly quickly and, and, to to his his amazement, amazement, saw saw them them puffup. puffup. The The famous famous analytical analytical chemist chemist Chevreul, Chevreul, who who was was inforinforof this this phenomenon, phenomenon, studied studied it it experimentally experimentally and and \ med med of established established the the conditions conditions under under which which itit occurred occurred and and could could be be reproduced reproduced at at will. will. ItIt isis perhaps perhaps the the only only time time that that aa train train being being late late had had happy happy consequences consequences!! potatoes require require double double cooking cooking and and fat fat which which can can Soufflé potatoes Souffle be be brought brought to to a a very very high high temperature temperature without without burning, burning, which which is is best best achieved achieved with with beef beef suet. su et. The The potatoes potatoes should should first first be be plunged plunged into into fat fat at at aa temperature temperature of of 180'C. 180°C. (356'F.) (356°F.) contained contained in in aa big big pan pan (which (which reduces reduces the the degree degree of ofcooling); cooling); this temperature temperature is is reduced reduced to to 135'C. 135°C. (275'F.) (275°F.) in in 22 minutes. minutes. this After 77 minutes minutes -- the the time time needed needed for for cooking cooking through through slices slices After

Howtoempty How to empty ready for stuffing stuffing for

potato aa potato

Hollow them out out with a vegetable vegetable scoop, scoop, to form a cavity cavity Hollow of containing about 50 g. (2 oz., It cup) forcemeat. capable of Blanch in fast-boiling salted water, drain, dry, arrange in a Blanch well-buttered sauté pan pan and and season. Stuff with the the filling well-buttered saut6 a forcing-bag forcing-bag or with with a a spoon. spoon. indicated, either through a indicated, Smooth the the top top layer layer of of the the filling filling into aa dome dome shape. Smooth Moisten the potatoes with meat stock without covering covering Moisten them.Bring to the the boil on on the the stove, stove, cover cover the pan, and and cook them. Bring to slow oven oven from 35 to 40 minutes. Remove Remove the potatoes in a slow them in a a fireproof dish, dish, sprinkle with carefully, arrange them breadcrumbs and melted butter and brown the top in the breadcrumbs oven. Boil down the the pan juices, juices, skim off any surplus fat, oven. strain, and and pour pour over over the the potatoes. potatoes. strain, Il. pourvcs POMMES DE DE TERRE FouRRfBs FOURRÉES - Bake Bake Stuffed potatoes II. uniform·shaped potatoes. potatoes. Cut Cut a a circular medium-sized, uniform-shaped opening on on one one side side and and keep keep the the cut-out cut-out pieces pieces to to use use as as lids. opening Scoop out three-quarters three-quarters of the the pulp, pulp, taking ta king care care not not to damage the the skin. Stuffthe Stuffthe potatoes potatoes with the the filling filling indicated. indicated. damage the top with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs or grated grated cheese cheese and Sprinkle the brown the the top, top, or or simply sim ply replace replace the the cut-out cut-out circles circles as as lids. brown on aa folded folded napkin. napkin. Serve on Serve the stuffed stuffed potatoes potatoes are are to to be be browned browned later, later, itit isis better better to IfIfthe cut them them in in half, half, lengthways, lengthways, instead instead of of hollowing them out cut through aa circular circular opening. opening. through Stuffed potNtocs potatoes ià ls la cancalaise. cancalaise. porrruns POMMES oe DE renRE TERRE A À rl LA Stulfed CANCALAISE -- Prepare Prepare like like Stuffed Stuffedpotatoes potatoes Il, using using aa filling filling of cANcALAISE 729

POTEE POTÉE poached oysters, (see oysters, mushrooms, mushrooms, and White wine wine sauce sauce(see and White poached sAUCE). SAUCE). poMMEs DE ps TERRE potatoes ài la Stufied potatoes la cantalienne. cantalienne. POMMES rERRE Ài LA rl Stuffed pulp out potato, mash cANTALIENNE -- Scoop Scoop pulp out of of the the potato, mash and and mix mix CANTALIENNE with two-thirds two-thirds ofits of its weight weight ofbraised, chopped cabbage. of braised, chopped cabbage. with grated cheese Sprinkle with with grated cheese and and brown brown the the top. top. Sprinkle poMMEs DE potatoes ài la (Hunter style). Stufred potatoes la chasseur chasseur (Hunter style). POMMES DE Stuffed TERRE CHASSEUR potatoes as cHAssEuR -- Cook Cook potatoes as above above and and stufT stuff with with TERRE sliced chicken chicken livers livers and and mushrooms, mushrooms, sautéed saut6ed in in butter, butter, and and sliced (see SAUCE). Chas s eur sauce s auce (see SAUCE). Chasseur

pourues DE Potatoes stuffed stuffed with with sausage samrge meat. meat. POMMES Potatoes DETERRE TERRE Prepare as in the thesecond second as described described in - Prepare method of the recipe potatoes J./. Fill for Stuffed of the Fill with recipe for Stuffed potatoes withsausage sausage method parsley and, meat stuffing, stuffing, mixed with chopped chopped parsley and, ifif desired, desired, mixedwith meat chopped onions onions lightly lightly fried fried in in butter. chopped butter. potato€s can These potatoes can also also be be stufTed with sausage sausage meat These stuffed with meat mixed with pulp of with the potatoes, as the pulp cooked potatoes, as described described in in the of cooked mixed the first method method of of the the same same recipe. recipe. tirst poMtrns DE potatoes soubise. Sdfed potatoes soubise. POMMES Stuffed DETERRE sousrsn - - Fill Fill TERRE SOUBISE (see PURÉE) with thick thick Onion Onion soubise soubise (see with PUREE) with with cream. cream. Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs Sprinkle breadcrumbs and and brown brown the the top. top. poMMEs DE potatoes ài la Strfed potatoes Stuffed la Vichy. Vichy. POMMES DETERnE rERRE ÀALA r.q, VICHYvrcHy (see CARROTS). Fill with with Carrots Fill Carrots àd la la Vichy Vichy (see CARROTS). Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs Sprinkle breadcrumbs and and brown brown the the top. top. potatoes Yorkshire Stulfed potatoes Stuffed Yorkshire style. DE TERRE styla POMMES rouurs DE TERRE ÀA LA LA potatoes in voRKAISE -- Bake Bake the YORKAISE the potatoes in the fill with with the oyen oven and and tiIl chopped York York ham chopped ham and and mushrooms mushrooms bound with Béchamel bound with Bichamel (see SAUCE), sauce (see sauce SAUCE), mixed mixed with with chopped chopped onion onion !ightly lightly fried fried in butter butter and in and seasoned seasoned with paprika. with aa !ittle little paprika. poMMEs DE Potato subrics. Potato subrics. SUBRICS suBRJcs DE DB POMMES DE TERRE TERRE -- Cut Cut the the potatoes into parboil in potatoes into small small dice, dice, parboil in salted salted water water for for 22 minutes, minutes, drain dry, drain dry, and and cook cook lightly pan. lightly in in butter butter in in aa covered covered pan. Remove from Remove from the the heat heat and and bind bind witb with thick thrck Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE), (scant !I pint, SAUCE), allowing pint, generous generous cup) (see allowing 2! 2| dl. dl. (scant cup) (18 per 500 g. (J sauce per sauce 8 oz., cups) potatoes. 500 g. potatoes. Add yolks and 2|cups) oz., 2i Add 33 yolks and 1I whole whole egg grated pepper and egg to to the the mixture. Season with mixture. Season with salt, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg and and mix. mix. Heat sorne Heat some claritied pan and clarified butter butter in in aa frying and drop drop the the frying pan mixture mixture 1I tablespoon tablespoon at at aa time into the butter, taking time into the hot hot butter, taking care care to allow allow space space for for thesubrics the szbrlcs to to spread during cooking, cooking, and spread during and to to prevent their prevent their sticking sticking to to each each other. other. Turn palette knife Turn the the subrics subrics with with aa palette knife to to make make both both sides sides golden. Serve golden. (see SAUCE). Serve witb with Cream sauce (see Cream sauce SAUCE). poMMEs DE Potatoes Potatoes ài la la toulousaine. toulousaine. POMMES DE TERRE TERRE ÀA LA LA TOULOUSAINE TouIousAINE -- Cut potatoes into quarters and Cut the the potatoes into quarters and brown brown them lightly in goose fat in aa mixture of pan. of$i goose in aa sauté fat and and j$ oil oil in saut6 pan. Season, Season, sprinkle sprinkle with with fiour, flour, add add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped garlic and parsley. Pour garIic Pour in in enough enough stock water to or water the stock or to coyer cover the potatoes. Stir, potatoes. Stir, bring to to the boil, boil, coyer, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oyen. oven. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley. poMMEs DE Potatoes ài la la Vichy. POMMES vrcrry -- Name Name DE TERRE TERRE À A LA rl VICHY sometimes given to Potatoes àd la la Crécy. Cricy. poMMEs DE Potatoes Potatoes Voisin. Voisin. POMMES DB TERRE Prepare like like TERRE VOISIN vorsrN -- Prepare Anna potatoes potatoes sprinkling each potatoes with grated grated each layer of of potatoes cheese. poMMEs DE yvETTE - Name Potatoes Potatoes Yvette. Yvette. POMMES DE TERRE TERRE YVETTE - Name under which Annette potatoes are Annette potatoes are sometimes sometimes served. FARcIES CHARCUTIÈRE cHencurrinr FARCIES

Stuffed potato with cheese

#T"TI""IHII"

potat"- with cheese. POMMES DE TERRE shtrred potatoes AU FROMAGE, ER.MAGE, Stuffed -RRE AU crulnxfns. Cook potatoes as Cook potatoes as above, above, and and stuff stuff with with the GRATINÉES. the seasoned, and with butter added to it. it. mashed pulp, seasoned, the top. Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown tbe poMlrEs DE Sdfed potatoes ài la duxelles. POMMES Stuffed DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES rl,ncrcs Ài DIxELLES -- Prepare like Potatoes stuffed LA DUXELLES with sausage meat stuffedwith meat (see below) and stufTwith stuffwithaduxelles (see a duxelles (q.v.) mixture. poMMEs Strfd potatoes fermière. fermiire. POMMES DE TERRE TERRs FERMlÈRE rrnrrniinr -- Fill Fill Stuffed with potatoes, mashed and mixed of the potatoes, with the pulp pulp scooped out of with of its weight ofchopped ofchopped stock-pot vegetables. with two-thirds two-thirds ofits grated cbeese Sprinkle with grated cheese and brown the top. Sprinkle poMMEs DE potatoes ài la Stffd potatoes la florentine. POMMES nn TERRE rsnnc ÀA LA Stuffed rA, FI-RENTTNE spinach cooked in butter. Coyer FLORENTINE -- Fill with spinach Cover with with Mornay with grated cbeese Mornay sauce (see SAUCE), sprinkle witb cheese and brown brown the top. poMMEs DE pe TERRE Stulfed potato€s hongroise. POMMES la hongroise. Stuffed potatoes ài la rEnRE À A LA rl HoNcRorsE the potatoes, HONGROISE - Fill with the pulp scooped out of tbe mashed masbed with a fork, mixe-d mixed with one-third of its weight weight of chopped cbopped onion onion gently fried fried in in butter butter and and seasoned with paprika. paprika. Stufred POMMES DB DE TERRE Stuffed potatoes potatoes Maintenon. Maintenon. poMMEs TERRE MAINTENON MATNTENoN with a a salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of breast of chicken, pickled -- Fill with tongue, truffles and mushrooms bound with soubise soubise (q.v.). truffles and Sprinkle Sprinkle with grated cheese cheese mixed with breadcrumbs and brown brown the the top. top. Stutred ménagère. poMMEs POMMES DE DE TERRE TERRE FARCIES Stuffed potatoes potatoes ià la m6nagire. rlncrEs À A t,c, LA IvfNA,citRE MÉNAGÈRE - Prepare llke like Potatoes stuffed with sausage sausage meat (see below) below) and and stuffwith stufT with chopped chopped meat meat left-overs. meat (see The The chopped chopped meat, meat, beef beef or or mutton, mutton, can be be mixed mixed with onethird its weight ofits weight of of fine tine forcemeat or or sausage sausage meat. meaL third of Sfitrfed Stuffed potatoes potatoes princesse. poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE TERRE pRrNgEssE PRINCESSE Fill with asparagus asparagus tips tips with with Cream Cream sauce (see (see SAUCE). Cover Coyer the tbe potatoes potatoes with with slivers slivers of of truffles. truffles. Sffied provençale. potvrlrss POMMES os DE rERRE TERRE A À rA, LA Stuffed potatoes potatoes ià la provengale. pRovENgALE PROVENÇALE -- Fill with with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) (q.v.) of of marinated marinated tunny (tuna (tuna fish) tish) and and hard-boiled bard-boiled eggs, eggs, bound with Tomato fondue fondue wrth Tomato (see (see TOMATO). TOMATO). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown the top. top.

POTÉE POTEE -- Ali All preparations cooked in an In an earthenware earthenware pot. In particular the scribes soup pork and the word word de describes soup made made with with pork and vegetables, mostly cabbage and potatoes, of which cabbage and potatoes, soup is the most characteristic. Potée Potee Lorraine Iorraine -- Line tbe the bottom of an vessel an earthenware earthenware vessel with pieces of pork with pieces pork skin skin or or bacon rind. rind. Place on top sorne some on top fresb pork fat, fresh pork fat, aa knuckle knuckle of of barn ham or or bladebone of of pork, carrots, turnips, carrots, turnips, bunches bunches of of leeks leeks and and aa wbole whole blanched blanched cabbage. cabbage. Barely coyer cover with with cold cold water. water. Cook Cook for for 3 hours. Thirty minutes before taking it from the tire, put in aa large, fire, put well-pricked well-pricked sausage. Serve potatoes. Serve with boiled potatoes. POT-ROASTING. roELAGE POÊLAGE - Metbod POT-ROASTING. by cooking by - Method of slow cooking steam. A casserole casserole with with aa tightly fitting lid is is used. used. The food is is cooked in butter or fat and flavoured with vegetables which be~n cooked slowly in butter butter until very tender. have been tender. or fish tish must must be Pot-roasted meat, poultry or frequently be basted frequently during cooking. cooking. When When it it is is ready, ready, take take it during it out out of of the on aa dish, dish, or, where appropriate, appropriate, in aa cocotte casserole. Serve Serve on cocotte Remove most of oftbe (q.v.). Remove the cooking cooking fat. juices in the the casserole casserole with wine wine or Dilute the juices stock as as or stock 730

POUSSOIR POUSSOIR prepared with POULE-AU-POT -- Pot-au-feu with beef beef and POULE-AU-POT Pot-au-Jbu prepared and aa stuffed chicken. chicken. (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, BROTHS, Pot-au-feu stuffed Pot-au-Jbu àd la la bdarnaise.) béarnaise.) (A LA) -- Method POULETTE (A POULETIE Method of of preparing aa diversity diversity of of ingredients, notably ingredients, notably offal variety meats. offal or or variety meats. Previously (see cooked, these cooked, these are are moistened moistened with with aa Velouté Veloutd sauce sauce (see yolks and SAUCE) bound with egg egg yolks and cream, cream, and and are are usually usually garnished with !ittle (See OFF AL or garnished little onions onions and mushrooms. (See OFFAL or (lambs') trotters VARIETY MEATS, Sheep's Sheep's (lambs') totters àd la la poulette; MUSHROOMS, Mushrooms MUSHROOMS, Mushrooms àd la poulette.)

indicated in the recipe. few seconds. Strain Strain and recipe. Boil Boil for aa few pour pour over over the dish. dish. Pot-roasting A ra MATTcNoN -la Matignon. Matignon. potrecr POÊLA GE À LA MATIGNON Pot-roasting ià la Brown lightly in butter the meat or fish to be be pot-roasted. Cover orfondue (q.v.) of of Matignon(q.v.) Matignon (q.v.) orfondue Coyer with with a thick layer layer of root vegetables. Wrap paper and Wrap in in buttered buttered greaseproof paper cook in the oven oyen in a a braising braising pan, pan, or or on on the the spit. spit. After cooking, cooking, unwrap, unwrap, place place on on a a dish, dish, surround surround with with the appropriate appropriate garnishes garnishes and and pour pour on on the stock. stock. Braising la Matignon Matignon can also be carried out by lining lining the Braising dà la braising braising pan with the fondue of root vegetables and placing the poultry, liberally liberally basted with butter, butter, on top. the meat, meat, fish fish or poultry,

POULIGNY-SAINT-PIERRE POULIGNY-SAINT-PIERRE -- See CHEESE. POULTRY. - See CHICKEN. POULTRY. VOLAILLE VoLATLLEPOUPELIN -- Gâteau (see Gdteau made paste (see made by by cooking cooking Chou Chou paste DOUGH) in plain mould. in aa plain Three-quarters of mould. Three-quarters of the the pastry spills outside the the mould during cooking. cooking. Cool Cool and fill the and fill the crust with with Chantilly (see CREAMS), fruit mousse or Chantilly cream (see or icecream. ice cream. POUPETON -- Method POUPETON preparing certain Method of certain butcher's of preparing meats, which are rolled one inside the other into aa meat roll. These pieces are generally generally braised. POUSSIN -- See POUSSIN See CHICKEN, Spring chicken. chicken.

POTTED POTTED CHAR CHAR (English (English cookery) cookery) -- Fish Fish conserve conserve formerly held in in great great esteem esteem in in England, England, where where it it was was eaten eaten at breakfast. breakfast. Cook Cook the the char char in a prepared prepared vegetable vegetable stock and let them cool cool in in the the liquid. Remove Remove all ail skin and bones and arrange arrange the fillets fish, well weil drained, drained, in shallow shallow earthenware pots. fillets of fish, Cover butter and set set in the the oven oyen for l5 15 minutes. minutes. Coyer with with clarified clarified butter Allow to get get quite quite cold. Add Add a few more more tablespoons tablespoons clarified clarified Allow to butter, that the the fish is completely completely covered. covered. butter, ifif necessary, necessary, so that Potted Potted char, char, kept in aa cool place, place, will will keep for 2 weeks. weeks. In U.S.A., char is the name name given to certain types of redU.S.A., char fleshed Trout may may be be used used in in this recipe. recipe. fleshed trout. trout. Trout

POUSSOIR -- Smail (pork Small machine machine used used in in charcuterie charcuterie (pork butchery), with which the minced meats are pressed pressed into the gut to make sausages. Air is gut prevented from entering gut, is prevented entering the gut, an essential condition condition ofperfect of perfect sausage sausage making.

POUILLARD POUILLARD -- Name Name given given to a a young partridge. partridge. It is is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as a fully fully grown grown partridge. partridge.

Mushrooms dà la la poulette poulette (Robert (Robert Carrier) Carrier) Mushrooms

731 731

POUTARGUE, BOUTARGUE POUTARGUE, in he founded the Maison de de la Prasline, Prasline, in Montargis where he

POUTARGUE, POUTARGUE, BOUTARGUE BOUTARGUE -- See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold hors-d'euyre. hors-d'œuvre.

which later Roy. later becamethe became the ConfisCrie Confisérie du du Roy.

POUTINE POUTINE - Tiny undeveloped undeveloped fish (larvae or post-larvae or

PRALINER PRALINER -- To add praline praline to a custard, custard, ice ice cream cream mixture

'fry') various kinds, mainly 'fry') of ofvarious mainly the early early stages stages of of sardines sardines and

or mousse.

anchovies. anchovies. They are are treated in the same sa me way as nonats (q.v.).

PRAIRE PRAIRE - Popular Popular name na me in France for the clam, a bivalve

PRATELLE -- Variety and pinkish, Variety of mushroom, mushroom, large large and pinkish,

mollusc, most often often eaten eaten raw raw like like oysters oysters but but which which may may also mollusc, most

cultivated cultivated in beds. beds.

be cooked like like mussels. mussels.

PREIGNAC of the PREIGNAC - White White wine wine which comes cornes from from a district district of

This This shellfish is is found found on on the the sandy Atlantic coasts coasts of

same same name name in the Gironde. Gironde.

France and also in the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. It is known, known, Ls as coque coque rayCe of Cancale and St. St. Malo, and as rigadelle rigadelle rayée in the bays of the the Atlantic the length of orthe Atlantic Coast Coast from St. Brieuc Brieuc to Lannion. Lannion.

PRf-SALE PRÉ-SALÉ _ - See SALT SALT MEADOW. MEADOW. PRESENT -- Dutch cheese, also known under the name of

PRALINE. IRALIN PRALIN - A A preparation used by pastry-cooks,

Edammer Kaas. Kaas.

made made in the the following way: way: Ingredients.l00 Ingredients. 100 g. (4 (4 oz., oz., scant cup) almonds, 100 g. (4 oz., !lcup) cup) sugar, sugar, {vanilla ! vanilla pod. Method. Put Put the the sugar sugar and and vanilla vanilla in a copper copper pan pan and and melt over a good heat heat until it is brown. Remove Remove the vanilla pod. Add Add the the almonds, almonds, previously previously browned browned in in the the oven. oyen. Mix. Pour Pour into a greased baking tin, cool, then pound in a mortar as finely as as possible. possible.

PRESENTATION PRESENTATION OF DISHES. pnnssacn DRESSAGE ons DES prlrs PLATS - To present a a dish dish is is to to arrange arrange food food on on a a serving serving dish dish in accordance accordance with certain accepted rules, e.g., a joint joint of of meat meat surrounded surrounded by by its appropriate appropriate garnish. garnish. In ln former times the presentation of dishes was somewhat elaborate. There are many man y fine fine drawings of these mastermasterpieces pieces of of culinary culinary architecture architecture in the the works works of of Car0me. Carême. The presentation of dishes is now as simple as as possible. possible. Cold Cold dishes dishes are are generally generally served served on a layer ofjelly of jelly straight straight on the the dish surrounded surrounded by by a suitable suitable garnish gamish or or jelly jelly motifs. motifs. Or Or in glass or crystal crystal bowls, completely completely covered with very clear jelly. jelly. Aspics, mousses, moulds moulds and other moulded moulded dishes dishes are sometimes sometimes set on on a slice slice of of sandwich sandwich bread bread cut cut to the the shape shape of their their base base and surrounded with a border border ofjelly, of jelly, but but they they are more commonly commonly served straight straight on the dish, decorated with jelly, jelly, or in a glass glass bowl. bowl. Fish is generally served served surrounded by the appropriate appropriate garnish interspersed with sprigs of of curly parsley, or, where where appropriate, appropria te, skinned, trimmed and masked masked with jelly jelly and decorated decorated with whatever whatever jelly jelly is indicated indicated in the the recipe. recipe. This This simplification simplification in the serving serving of of cold dishes, especially especially sweetS recommended by by Car€me Carême himself, who who sweets (desserts), was was recommended urged urged the the use use of of crystal crystal bowls. bowls. In ln the 'introductory 'introductory discourse' to the the Cuisinier parisien, parisien, Car6me Carême says says that, that, for the the presentation presentation of of these these dishes dishes he he had furnished furnished manufacturers manufacturers with 'several models of bowls for sweets, some sorne of which should be presented presented in crystal crystal containers.' tainers.' He He advised advised the the cooks of of his own day to 'stand 'stand jelly jelly sweets sweets on ice ice to to set', set', which which is now current current practice. practice. 'In 'In general', general', wrote wrote Car6me, Carême, 'I '1 would wou Id wish to see these these new new bowls carried carried out in future in handsome silverware. They would would do do honour honour to to the the eoldsmiths goldsmiths and and silversmiths silversmiths of France.' France.'

Giteau'pralin6' Gâteau 'praliné'

PRALINf. PRALINÉ. pur,nrE. PRALINÉ.

made with layers of Genoese -- Cake made cake separated separated by a layer of praline praline butter cream, covered covered with with a layer layer of of same same cream, cream, sprinkled sprinkled with with chopped chopped almonds. Praline Praline butter butter cream cream is is made made by by adding adding 200 200 g. (7 (7 oz., I1 cup) cup) powdered powdered praline praline to to I1 kg. (2* (2* lb., 4l 4t cups) cups) Butter Butter cream cream (see cREAMS). CREAMS).

PRALINE PRALINE (Confectionery) (Confectionery) -- Very Very delicate delicate sweet, an almond almond covered covered with with aa coating coating of of cooked sugar, sugar, variously variously flavoured flavoured and and coloured. coloured. The history history of of this this confection goes back back to the reign reign of

PRESENTOIR PRESENTOIR -- Dish Dish on on which which aa tureen, tureen, vegetable vegetable dish, dish, etc. rests. rests.

- The The art art of preserving preserving food food is extremely ancient, but it is only since the mid nineteenth nineteenth century century that that itit has has moved moved out out of of the the empirical empirical mid realm realm into into the the scientific. Since Since the earliest times man has has tried tried to guard against against famine famine by preserving preserving foods foods during their their season of abunabundance; dance; in in particular, particular, meat meat obtained obtained by by hunting. hunting. preserving food The The only only means means of ofpreserving food in in prehistoric prehistoric times times was This method method is still employed today, today, particularly particularly by drying. drying. This by in in Switzerland, Switzerland, where where beef beef is preserved preserved (Bindenfleiscft) (Bindenfleisch) in the the Grisons, strong pure pure air. Grisons, being being dried dried solely solely in in the the strong But knew how how to to use use fire fire to to cook cook meat, meat, he he very But once once man knew soon soon used used itit for for curing curing it. it. This This was was the the first first scientific scientific method method preserving. Having ofpreserving. Having noticed noticed the the effect effect that that fire fire had had on on meat, meat, of an an effect efTect which which altered its substance, substance, made made itit more more tasty tasty and easier easier to to masticate, masticate, the the possibility possibility dawned on primitive primitive man

PRBSERVATION PRESERV ATION OF OF FOOD. FOOD. coNsERvE CONSERVE

Louis XIII. XIII. At this this period, the the mar6chal maréchal duc duc de ChoiseulChoiseulPraslin divided his his time time between between the the battlefield and and the

boudoirs famous women. boudoirs of offamous women. He He had had already already established established quite quite a reputation reputation for for himself himself through through his his ingenuity ingenuity and and wit wit when when one one day day he he surpassed surpassed himself: himself: he he offered offered some sorne sweets sweets along along with with his his proposals. proposais. These These were were such such aa novelty novelty at at the the time time that that people people had had never never tasted tasted anything anything like them. them. His His friends friends besieged the marshal marshal for for the the recipe, recipe, pleading pleading with with him him at at the the besieged the same same time time to to part part with with some sorne more. more. When When they they asked asked what what the the delicacies delicacies were were called, called, the the duc duc de de Praslin Praslin was was unable unable to to put put aa name name to to them. them. 'I'1 leave leave itit to to you,'he you,' he said'to said 'to christen christen them.' them.' A voice rang out out in the the company, company, 'Prasline', 'Prasline', pronouncing pronouncing for voice rang the the first first time time a name na me that that was was to to become become famous famous throughout throughout the the world. world. The The head head of of mar6chal maréchal de de Praslin's Praslin's household household later later settled settled 732

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PRESERVATION OF FOOD PRESERVATION

in temperature, hot in in summer summer and to variations variations in and subject to hot which lead of the the bacon or or lead to condensation on on the the surface surface of which are and other evils. Cellars Cellars are in time time produce slime other evils. and in slime and ham and good A good air circulation.) A and lack lack adequate air often too damp and north is best. floor room facing north larder or unheated ground 1100r elaborate but but curing need not be elaborate The equipment for home curing knife, scales scales for for should include include aa boning boning knife, knife, aa carving carving knife, should for brining head head and and meat, aa large basin basin or or tub tub for weighing meat, depending on on the the type type floor, depending shelfor trotters, a curing trough, shelf or floor, thermometer. of cure, and aa th~:rnlornel:er. slate shelf shelf will will be be floor or stone or or brick brick floor or slate For dry salting aa stone with needed. If aa 'box' cure contemplated, aa strong strong box box with cure is is contemplated, needed. tubs or or barrels barrels for pickle cu curing, of wood wood and weights; for pieces of ring, tubs in the meat meat will will float float in suitable. It must be remembered remembered that the are suitable.1t (large c1ean will do) clean stones and boards with with weights weights (large do) the pickle and stones will as aa coyer. cover. must be provided as lead cures, aa stone stone or or lead combination of dry and and pickle cures, For aa combination of dry plug ho hole for drawing drawing oIT offthe trough is ideal, preferably with aa plug le for the be used. used. wooden and basins basins may be en troughs and liquor, but wood twine is being dried, meat hooks and When the meat is and strong twine greaseproofpaper clean needed and, for storage, storage, greaseproof will be needed paper and clean and, for muslin or calico. orcalico. preservation of consists Curing iD~:rellÜel1ts The preservation of meat meat consists ingredients -- The partly of impregnating itit with partly of drying tbe with aa and partly the meat meat and (somesufficiently high concentration of salt salt and and saltpetre (somesufficiently concentration of times times sugar as weil). well). sugar as in curing. Saltpetre isis Salt is the ingredient in curing. Saltpetre Salt is the really essential essential ingredient in not not aa substance for human human nutrition nutrition and, and, except except in substance required required for an irritant irritant or or aa small small concentrations, be regarded regarded as as an concentrations, could could be preservatives. Common poison, like Common salt, salt, weak weak poison, like many many other other preservatives. yet diITers the human human diet, diet, yet differs in ingredient of of the in being aa necessary necessary ingredient even aa or even in in high an irritant irritant or higb concentrations concentrations itit can can become become an qualities of poison. Sugar the poison. of the Sugar has has none none of of the the objectionable qualities other preservatives and soft help keep keep the the meat meat soft and isis supposed to to help other preservatives saltpetre. by by counteracting counteracting the effects of ofsaltpetre. the hardening eITects (mostly ace Curing tic acetic vinegar (mostly Curing ingredients ingredients also also include vinegar preservative (the essential acid), pepper (the has aa preservative acid), pepper essential oil oil probably has preserving eITect), effect), beer, beer, wines wines and and spirits (alcohol being aa preserving agent) wood smoke agent) and and wood smoke in which are found formaldehyde, alcohols, alcohols, tars, tars, creosote, creosote, etc. etc. preservative Fruits, practically no no preservative have practically Fruits, berries, berries, spices, spices, etc., etc., have eITect, contained essential oils oils contained apart from from sorne some of of the the acids acids or or essential effect, apart in flavour to the cured cured in them, add flavour to the main function function isis to to add them, and their main and their product. Cleansing fresh cut to cut isis to in treating treating aa fresh The first first operation operation in Cleensing -- The cleanse This brine. This in aa strong strong brine. short time time in for aa short cleanse itit by by dipping dipping itit for has full cure cure to to the full and allows allows the has several several advantages; advantages; itit isis rapid and be which wet salt salt surface surface which the wet be carried It provides the carried out out at at once. once. It starts the without the penetration of salt the meat meat without salt into into the starts the the penetration laborious down be watered watered down This brine brine can can be laborious process ofrubbing. of rubbing. This after pickling of small cuts cuts or or of smal! for the light pickling after cleansing and and used used for the Iight ooffal ITal (variety meats). meats). The prepared by dissolving 6 kg. (13 lb.) salt and The brine brine is prepared by dissoIVln.!! 100 (4 oz.) g. (4 in 23 23 litres litres (5 gallons, 6t gallons) oz) saltpetre saltpetre in 100 g. boiling boiling water. water. Mix Mix thoroughly, thoroughly, strain through aa cloth and cool e. (50°F.) (50'F.) or using. lower before before using. cool to to 10 even lower 10"C. or even The minutes, until until c1ean. clean. for 10 l0 minutes, immersed for The loin loin should should be be immersed The while in in the the and while hour, and The ham about 1I hour, ham will will require longer, about brine to the hock hock end end to from the be squeezed squeezed from brine the the large large veins should be the place the cut skin-side skin-side upwards upwards the eut the fillet fillet end. After cleansing, cleansing, place end. After to to drain, not allow to dry. dry. drain, but but do do not allow to pfukling -- Dilute Pickling ding itit to to of brine brine by by ad adding Dilute above above quantity of 77 litres (6 quarts, 7t quarts) water. as aa well and and use use as water. Stir Stir weil litres (6 pickling brine for head, trotters, tongue, etc. Salting - Weigh the meat and allow one-tenth of its weight petre required weight of salt. required isis oneonesaltpetre salt. The amount amount of of salt fortieth fortieth of weight of salt. of the the weight of salt. petre the Owing Owing to saltpetre the mixing mixing should should to the the smaH small amount amount of of salt

of of of delaying its decomposition decomposition by smoking it. il. This method of preserving, assisted by salting, is still used by a a preliminary salting, is still smoked today, and smoked and it is in this manner that that all ail hams hams and today, and meats are are prepared and preserved. preserving meat in those remote Freezing played a part in preserving Freezing days. There There was also salting, but only in regions near the sea where where rock salt was found. Fruit and vegetables were first preserved by drying in the sun or by the fire. Later, recourse was made to the system of l''n'vl''l,nninp' food substances in in fat. enveloping fat. Although rather imperprocedure is still used today to preserve, for a limited fect, this procedure put in period, period, meat meat which which has has first first been in fat, fat, put been cooked cooked in covered entirely with stoneware pots and covered stoneware with fat. Once congealed it makes an almost completely airtight cover. The basic ways ways of canning and and i.e., canning The basic of preserving food, i.e., bottling, freezing, freezing, salting and dehydrating dehydrating are still in use, but processes. The modern methods methods have have revolutionised modern revolutionised the the processes. preservation of food in the factory factory is well as as in food in the home as as weil very important. veryimportant. CANNING EN BOITE CANNING AND BOTTLING. CONSERVATION BoIrE -coNsERvArroN EN The process of hermetically hermetically sealing food for future use was invented in 1795 invented I 795 by a a Frenchman, Nicholas Appert. In I 8 10 a patent was taken out in in England for Appert's method and from there it quickly spread to America, where lobsters and salmon were were the first first foods preserved in this way. In 1823 Thomas can for for Thomas Kensett, the tin tin can Kensett, an an American, invented invented the packing food, fish, vegetables and and food, including meat, meat, poultry, fish, fruit. Glass containers, cans are now containers, earthenwarejars earthenware jars and tin cans used in commercial and home canning and bottling. This method of process whereby whereby of preservation is basically aa process the action ofmoulds, food bacteria that spoil fresh food of moulds, yeasts and bacteria is stopped by long enough enough to to to high higb heat heat long by subjecting them to as poultry, meat and and stop the action. Most vegetables as as weil well as (10alkg. (10processed in pressure canners under under aa 4}kg. fish must must be processed lb.) pressure at 115°e. (240"F.). Most fruits are I l5'C. (240°F). and tomatoes tomatoes are fruits and processed processed in varieties of of bath. Several Several varieties water bath. in aa boiling water containers are seals and and or seals are used; all are are equipped with covers or directions to make the containers airtight. With the advent of advent of freezers, home canning ofpoultry, rare, is now rare, of poultry, meat and fish is but canning and bottling of quite fruit isis still still quite of vegetables and and fruit common. CURING. SALAISON an ancient ancient The curing curing of of meat meat isis an sALArsoN -- The practice. practice. Cato of ham Cato the Censor for the salting salting ofham Censor gives aa recipe for which goes back fourteenth by the the fourteenth B.C. In In England, by back to 200 200 B.e. century, it was be without without bacon. bacon. was indeed aa sign ofpoverty of poverty to to be Until the middle of the and ham ham century bacon bacon and the nineteenth century cou Id only be of cooling cooling could When aa method method of be cured cured in the winter. When curing be curing cellars with was introduced, began to to be curing began with ice ice was introduced, curing carried year round. refrigeration, carried out round. Mechanical Mechanical refrigeration, out ail all the the year introduced the introduced in in 1877, was the the beginning of of the in Britain Britain in 1877, was modern whole modern curing curing industry, industry, which which revolutionised the whole approach. The success success of largely depends on the the extent extent of home home curing curing largely depends on to premises can for the the to which which unspecialised be adapted adapted for unspecialised premises can be purpose. The of The ideal should have have aa temperature temperature of ideal curing room should e. (38' and free circulation circulation of of between 3° 3' and l0'C. and 50'F.), aa free and 10 fresh light has has aa bad bad fresh cool as light cool air means of of darkening, as air and and aa means effect al. Most in cellars are are even even in effect on fat of the me meat. Most cellars on the the fat of the tennJ)(!ratUl:eand provided they are not not too too damp. damp. temperature and are they are are suitable suitable provided temperature For drying which keeps keeps aa temperature drying the best room room is is one one which the best of (60'F.), preferably preferably with The air. The current of of air. of about about 15°e. l5'C. (60°F.), with aa current ceiling fire, or or of of aa passage ceiling of not too too near near the the fire, of aa large kitchen kitchen not leading from for this from the kitchen, kitchen, is is good for this purpose. Rooms in which there water tank may may be be used, if the meat is not there is is aa hot hot water placed heat. placed too too near near the the source source of ofheat. For light and steady and steady For storage storage the oflight the essentials essentials are are absence absence of though (Most attics too attics are are too thougb not not necessarily low temperature. necessarily low temperature. (Most

0

0

733 733

PRESERVATION OF OFFOOD FOOD PRESERVATION be very thorough. To ensure this, use dry, sieved salt. Divide be very thorough. To ensure this, use dry, sieved salt. Divide into tmee three equal partsand equal parts and add addtotoeach each the the appropriate appropriate itit into amount of ofcru crushed and sieved sievedsaltpetre. pileof saltpetre. Mix Mix each each pile salt ofsalt amount shed and andsaltpetre saltpetre thorougbly thorouehly and andsift sift the themixture, mixture, but butdo do not not mix mix and the three piles of threepiles ofcuring curing mixture, mixture, asas one one will will be beused usedfor for the rubbing in, in, one one for for sprinkling sprinkling and and the the last last for forsprinkling sprinkling atat rubbing the time of rebedding. the time ofrebedding. Drain the thec1eansing cleansing brine brine from from the thecut cut and, and, using using one-tbird one-third Drain of the thecuring curing mixture, mixture, rub rub thoroughly thoroughly tirst first on on the theskin skin side, side, of forcing some some of of itit down down the the shank shank of of the the ham, ham, then then rub rub the the forcing flesh side lightly. tlesh side lightly.

article isis taken takenfrom from Bulletin BulletinNo. No. J127 ofthe theMinistry Ministrv of of article 27 of Agricultureand and Fisheries.) Fisheries.) Agriculture

DEHYDRATION. DESSICCATION orssrccArroN - - Evaporation Evaporation of water ofwater DEHYDRATION. from foods foods isisanother another time-bonoured time-honoured technique techniquewhicb which bas hasaa from modern developrnent, development, bul but except exceptinin time time of of war, war, when when modem dehydrated foods foods are areused used extensively extensivelybecause becauseof of the the small small dehydrated shipping space spac€ Ibey they take, take, foods processed by foods processed by canning canning or shipping or freezing are are more more acceptable, acceptable, both both for for reasons reasonsoftlavour of flavour and and freezing qualities. Comparatively keeping qualities. of keeping Comparatively few dehydrated foods few debydrated of foods are sold sold extensively. extensively. Exceptions Exceptions to to this this are are dried dried fruits fruits are (raisins, prunes, prunes, apricots, peaches, pears, apricots, peaches, p€ars, etc.), (dried 10 etc.), milk milk (dried to (raisins, soluble powder powder which which isis used used for for reconstituted reconstituted milk milk inin aa soluble liquid form form and and for for cake cake and and bread 'mixes') and bread 'mixes') potatoes. and potatoes. liquid Dried whoJe whole eggs eggs can can be be successfully successfully used used and and egg egg whites whites can can Dried be dried dried and and used used for for meringues meringues and and icings. icings. be

Prepare aa bed bed of (2 inches) of salt salt about about 55cm. crn. (2 inches) thick press thick and and press Prepare down the the cut into it, cut into skin side it, skin side down. down. Sprinkle Sprinkle lightly lightly with with the the down second third of the curing mixture. Cover the cut entirely with second third of the curing mixture. Coyer tbe cut entirely with 2lto cm. (1(l to to 22 inches) inches) salt, salt, taking taking care pack the care to to pack the salt salt 2! to 55 cm. tightly (The meat tends to shrink and draw away at sides. (The the sides. tightly at the meat tends to shrink and draw away from the the salt, salt, causing causing the the surface surface to to become become dry dry and and the the from salting uneven.) salting uneven.) After five five days, days, break pack, rem break the the pack, remove any discoloured discoloured After ove any salt and repack the the cut, cut, sprinkling sprinkling as as before before with with the the salt and repack remainder of the curing mixture. remainder of the curing mixture. Different cuts cuts should should bç kept in in salt periods, salt for for varying varying periods, Q kept Different depending oq their thickndss. Ham is usually kept in salt 6 to depending on their thickness. Ham is usually kept in salt 6 to days Wr 2+ cm. (1 inch) of thickness. In the case of several 77 days per 2t cm. (l inch) of thickness. ln the case of several cuts beingcured, care should be taken to repack the salt after cuts being cured, care should be taken to repack the salt after each removal of meat. each removal ofmeat. lVashing and maturation - Rernove meat from the salt bed, Washlng and mllturation - Remove meat from the salt bed, wash the the surface surface in in cold cold water, water, or leave the the harn or leave ham or bacon in or bacon in wash the room where it has been salted for a further period of 2 to 4 the room where it bas been salted for a furtber period of2 to 4 weeks, to enable the salt and saltpetre to go on penetrating, weeks, to enable the salt and salt petre to go on penetrating, until enough curing curing mixture has been mixture has prevent the been absorbed absorbed to the until enough to prevent growth of undesirable During this the undesirable bacteria. bacteria. During this period period the groWlh of maturation and continues continues through the subsequent subsequent through the maturation begins hegins and operations of of drying, smoking and and slorage. storage. After After this this drying, smoking operations preliminary maturation, wash offexcess salt from the surface preliminary maturation, wash off excess salt from the surface of meat, soaking soaking it in aa little little cold cold water overnight, if if of the the meat, it in water overnight, n€c€ssary. necessary. Drying Drying -- Hang Hang the the meat meat in in aa warm warrn place place with with aa temperatemperature ture of of about about 15"C. 15°e. (60'F.), (60°F.), not not exceeding2l"C. exceeding 21°e. (70'F.). (70°F). As As the drying proceeds, the drying proceeds, aa white white surface surface layer layer of of crystalline crystalline salt salt appears, appears, but but if if the the washing washing has has been been thorough, thorough, this tbis is is not not excessive. Where it is difficult to obtain dry storage conditions excessive. Where it is difficult to obtain dry storage conditions particularly itit is important to is particularly important to remove remove this this surface surface salt, salt, as as it il attracts a ttracts moisture. moisture. Smoking Smoking -- This This should should be be considered considered as as an an alternative alternative method method of of drying. drying. In ln addition, addition, however, however, smokingintroduces smoking introduces preservatives and flavouring substances preservatives and flavouring substances into into the the meat. meat. Smoking at aa temperature temperature below below 32"C. 3re. Smoking should should be be carried carried out out at (90'F.), otherwise the fat will melt, and it is essential to ensure (90°F.), otherwise tbe fat will melt, and il is essential to ensure that that sufficient sufficient moisture moisture has has been been removed removed from from the tbe bacon bacon or or ham. bam. Storage - This should be, as far as possible, in the dark, at a Stofage- This should be, as far as possible, in the dark, at a temperature tempe rature of of about about 15'C. 15°e. (60"F.), (60°F.), but but itit does does no no harm harm to to store at lower temperatures provided variations are avoided. store at lower temperatures provided variations are avoided. Should the temperature the of meat surface Should the temperature of tbe meat surface at at any any time time be be below below the the dewpoint, dewpoint, aa film film of ofmoisture moisture will will be be deposited deposited and and the value of the drying process will be partly lost. the value of the drying process will be partly lost. IfIfbacon bacon and and hams hams can can be be kept kept under under dry dry conditions, conditions, they they may hung up up without without any any covering. covering. Added Added protection protection isis may be be hung supplied by wrapping the paper supplied by wrapping tbe meat meat in in paper or or cloth c10th and and surrounding take up willtake up moismoissurrounding with with some sorne substance substance which which will ture turefrom from the Iheair, air,such suchas askiln-dried kiln-driedsalt salt(so (solong longas asititdoes doesnot not come come into into actual actual contact contact with with the the meat), meat), slaked slaked lime, lime, charcoal, wood ashes, charcoal, wood ashes,malt malt culms, culms,dried driedoat oathulls hullsor oroat oalmeal meal (provided it is free from mites). Cured meat may be stored by (provided il is free from mites). Cured meal may be stored by hanging hanging up up in in clean clean linen linen or or calico calico bags, bags, lime-washing Iime-washing the the bags bags two two or or three three times. times. (With (With acknowledgement acknowledgement to 10 the the Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Office. Part Part of ofthis this Controller of Her Majesty's Stationery Offce.

FREEZING. SURGéLATION suncfi,lnoN -- Frozen Frozen foods properly foods wb when FREEZlNG. en properly processed resemble resemble the the fresh fresh variety variety more more closely closely than than foods foods processed preserved by by any any other other method, preserved food method, although although no no preserved food preserved can daim claim equality equality with with absolutely absolutely fresh fresh food. food. Freezing Freezing in in ice ice can an ancient practice, but ancient practice, but the the modern quick modern method method of of quick isis an freezing plays plays aa major gastronomy in major role in gastronomy role in in both both commercial commercial freezing and domestic domestic areas. areas. To To have have complete complete success, suoeess, food food must must he be and used when when at peak, packaged at its its peak, packaged so as 10 to exclude so as exclude al! all air air and and used quickly and frozen as as quickly and thoroughly as possible. Su as possible. Such food is frozen ch food stored at (0'F.). at -- 18°C. l8'C. (O°F.). slored Home freezers freezers are used for storage of commercially commercially frozen Home products, produce produce oftbe garden, orcbard of the garden, orchard or farm, meat, fisb, fish, products, pies, cakes and breads, pies, and ice creams, dairy products and and prebreads, cooked meat and vegetable vegetable dishes. meat and dishes. Weil Well planned use use of a cooked home freezer is a great great boon to the modern housewife. housewife. Most borne frozen foods sbould should be consumed consumed within within one year of being frozen processed. Some foods do not retain their good quality so processed. Sorne long. long. The following should not be stored in a freezer longer than four months: than four monlhs: ham ham;; bacon; duck; goose; rich fish like salmon; (variety meats) or sausage. sausage. salmon; offal offal (variety Meat-Properly meat are Meat- Properly aged aged and and trimmedcuts lrimmed cuts of ofmeat are packed packed in in heavy'freezer'paper. heavy 'freezer' paper. Pork Pork should be be used used within within about about 4 months months but other other meats meats (beef, (beef, veal veal and and lamb) lamb) may be he kept a year. Ifthe package year.lfthe package isis neither neither heavy heavy nor nor tight tight enough, enough, 'freezer burn'will burn' will develop. develop. Pouttry Poultry and and gamegame - Chicken, Chicken, ducks, ducks, wild game game and and rabbits rabbits to to be be cooked whole should sbould be be cleaned cleaned and trussed trussed before before freezing. freezing. Giblets Giblels are wrapped wrapped in in freezer freezer paper paper and stored in in the the body body cavity. cavily. Small birds may may be he cut cul up up (iointed) Uointed) and wrapped wrapped in in small srn~lI packages. packages. Fish Fisb - Fish Fish should should be be chilled, chilled, cleaned cleaned and and washed washed before before freezing. eut into inlo freezing. Small Small fish tisb are are frozen frozen whole; whole; large large fish fish are are cut steaks steaks or or filleted. fiJleted. It lt is is important important to to freeze fish fish as as soon soon as as possible possible after after itit isis caught. caught. Vegetables VegetllblesSornevegetables vcgetables freeze freeze more more successfully successfullythan than - Some others. others. All Ali vegetables vegetables must must be be blanched blanched in in boiling boiling water water or or steam steam before before freezing. freezing. Following Following is is aa representative represenlative list lisl of of vegetables vegetables with with instructions instructions for for home bome processing processing and and freezfreezing. ing. The The vegetables vegetables are are packed packed inin airtight airtight plastic plasticcontainers. containers. PRESS. PRESS. pREssE PRESSE -- Culinary Culinary implement implement serving serving to to extract extract by by pressure pressure fruit fruitjuice, juice, or orthe Ibejuice juicefrom from the thecarcase carcase of ofaa fowl fowl or or of ofaapiece pieceof ofcooked cooked meat. meat. According 10 their their use use (iuice (juice press, press, lemon lemon squeezer, squeezer, etc.) etc.) According to these Ihesepresses pressestake takevarious variousforms. forms. PRESS. PRESS. FouLER FOULER*- Pressing Pressing aa pur6e purée or orsome some other other substance substance through throughaastrainer st rainerwith withaawooden wooden spoon. spoon. PRESSLJRE PRESSURECOOKER COOKER-- AApressure pressurecooker cookerisismade madeininsizes sizes ranging rangingfrom from I Jquart quartto10several severalgallons'capacity gallons' capacityand andisisused used for for cooking cooking meats, meats, poultry, poultry, fish, fish, vegetables, vegetables, fruits, fruits, soups, soups, puddings, fraction of ofthe thetime limeofofthe theconventional conventional puddings,etc,, etc.,atalaafraction

734 734

PRESERVATION PRESER VATION OF FOOD HOM E FREEZING FREEZING OF VEGETA BLES VEGETABLES HOME Vegetable

Prepara/ion Preparation

Asparagus Asparagus

Select Select young, tender stalks. Sort according to thickness ofstalk. thickness of stalk. Wash and discard discard tough lengths sections. Leave in lengths to fit package or eut cut into pieces. pieces.

Beans, Broad, Lima, Kidney Kihey

Bewts, Beans, French,

kuner Runner

Blanching lime time in boiling warer water Sm ail stalks,2 Small stalks, 2 minutes; medium, 3 minutes; minutes; medium,3

Processing Blanch, Blanch, cool, drain and pack. pack. When packing

large,4minutes. large, 4 minutes.

alternate lips tips and spears spears alternale stem ends.

Select well-filled pods. Select well-filled Beans should be ripe but Beans not nol starchy meaIy. starchy or mealy. Shell, wash and sorl sort according to size.

Small, 2 minutes; minutes; medium, 3 minutes; minutes; medium,3 large, large,44 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack into containers, seal seai freeze. and freeze.

youn& tender Select Select young,

3 minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool and drain. freeze. Pack, seal and freeze.

beans. Wash, cut off offstem Wash, cul stem and tips. Leave whole, slice or eut cut into pieces. slice pieces.

Pack, seal and freeze.

Bee/rool Beetroot

Select beetroots Select beetroots not more than 7~cm. 7}cm. (3 inches) inches) Wash and sort across. Wash according to size. Trim tops,leaving tops, leaving 11cm. cm. (1 $ stems. Cook in inch) of of stems. boiling water until tender small beets 30 to 35 -- small minutes, medium size 45 to 50 minutes. Cool, peel, cut into slices or cubes. eut

Broccoli

Selecl tight, compact, Select tight, dark-green heads with tender stalks. Wash Wash and tender trim. To remove remove insects, soak for 30 minutes in a solution of 4 solution made of 4| litres teaspoons teaspoons salt to 4ilitres (4 quarts, 5 quarts) cold water. Split into sprigs.

3 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack leaving leaving no headspace.Sealand headspace. Seal and freeze. fteze.

Cabbage

Wash weil well and shred. Wash

2 minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool thoroughly and drain drain weil. well. Pack, seal and freeze. freeze.

CarrOIS Carrots

Select tender carrots. Select tender Remove Remove tops, wash and peel. Leave small small carrots whole. Cut others others into cubes, thin slices or small cubes, strips.

Whole carrots (small), 5 minutes; cu bes, slices cubes, or strips, strips, 2 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. Blanch, Pack, seal and freeze.

Cauliflower Caulifiower

Select tender, snowSelect firm, tender, into white heads. Break ioto If sprigs. Wash well. weil. If spri5. Wash necessary to ta remove rem ove necessary insects, soak for 30 solution minutes in a solution minutes made of of 4 teaspoons leaspoons salt 4| litres (4 quarts, 5 to 4~ quarts) cold water. Drain.

minutes. 3 minutes.

Blanch, cool and drain. leaving no Pack leaving headspace.Sealand headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze.

735

PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD Vegetable Vegelable

Preparation Prepara/ion

Blanching Blanching time time in in boiling boiling water wa/er

Corn-on-the-cob Corn-on-Ihe-cob

Trim Trim offleaves offleaves and and sort sort according according to to size. size.

Small Small ears, ears, 44 minutes; minutes; medium, medium, T7 minutes; minutes; large, large, 99 minutes. minutes.

Mushrooms Mushrooms

Wash Wash and and trim. trim. Soak Soak 55 minutes minutes in in 4dl. 4dl. (}pint, (:1 pint, 22 cups) cups) water water with with 11 teaspoon teaspoon lemon lemon juice. juice.

Steam Steam 33 minutes minutes for for small small or or sliced sliced mushrooms, mushrooms, 55 minutes minutes for for large large whole whole ones. ones.

Cool, Cool, pack, pack, seal seal and and freeze. freeze.

Okra Okra

Select Select young young tender tender gxeen green pods. pods. Wash Wash thoroughly. thoroughly.

Small Small pods pods 33 minutes; minutes; large large pods pods 44 minutes. minutes.

Blanch, and drain. drain. Blanch, cool cool and Leave Leave whole whole or or slice slice crosswise. Pack, seal seal and and crosswise. Pack, freeze. freeze.

Itminutes. 1i minutes.

Blanch, Blanch, cool cool and and drain. drain. Pack, Pack, seal seal and and freeze. freeze.

Halves,3 Halves, 3 minutes; minutes; slices, slices, 22 minutes. minutes.

Blanch, and drain. drain. Blanch, cool cool and Pack,leaving Pack, leaving I1cm. cm. (}inch) (~inch) headspace. headspace. Seal Seal and and freeze. frceze. Unblartched Unblanched peppers peppers-- pack pack leaving leaving no Store for for no headspace. headspace. Store 33 months months only. only.

remove remove silks. silks. Wash, Wash, and and

Cut Cut offstems. off stems.

Peas

Select plump, firm firm pods pods Select plump, with with sweet, swcet, tender tender peas. peas.

Processing Processing

Blanch, Blanch, cool cool thoroughly thoroughly and and drain. drain. Pack Pack ears ears in in

containers containers or or wrap wrap in in moisture-vapourmoisture-vapourresistant resistant material. material. Seal Seal and and freeze. frceze.

Shell and sort sort out out tough tough Shell and

or or immature immature peas. peas. Peppers Peppers

Peppers Peppers frozen frozen without without heating heating are are best best for for use use in in uncooked uncooked foods. foods. Blanched Blanched peppers peppers are are easier easier to to pack pack and and good good

for for use use in in cooking. cooking. Select Select

firm, firm, crisp, crisp, thick-walled thick-walled peppers.Wash, cut in peppers. Wash,cutin half, half, cut cut out out stems stems and and remove remove seeds. seeds. IfIfdesired, desired, cut cut in in strips strips or or rings. rings. Tomatoes TomalOes

Wash, Wash, sort sort and and trim, tri m, and and cut cut up up the the tomatoes. tomatoes. Simmer Simmer for for 55to to l0 \0 minutes. minutes. Press Press through through aa

Fill Fill containers, containers, leaving leaving I1cm. cm. $inch) (~inch) headspace. headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze. Whole Whole Seal and unblanched unblanched tomatoes tomatoes can can be be stored stored for for 33months. months.

sieve. sieve. Ifdesired, If desired, add add I1

teaspoon teaspoon salt salt to to each each generous generous litre litre (2 (2 pints, pints, 2| 2~

pints) pints) ofjuice of juice for for seasoning. seasoning. Fruits Fruits-- Some Some fruits fruits such such as as apples, apples, apricots apricots and and peaches peaches darken darken when when frozen. frozen. To To prevent prevent this this the the fruit fruit isis packed packed in in aa sugar sugar syrup syrup and and aa little little ascorbic ascorbic acid acid (Vitamin (Vitamin C) C) isis added. added. Following Followingisis aa representative representative list list of of fruits fruits that thal can can be be frozen. frozen. AA 40 40 per percent cent syrup syrup contains con tains 300 300g. g. (l(IlI oz., OZ., lj 1 cups) cups) sugar sugarto to 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2icups) cups) water. water. AA 50 50 per per cent cent syrup syrup contains contains 450 450 g. g. (l(l lb., lb., 22cups) cups) sugar sugarto 10 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2t 2~cups) cups) water. water. AA 60 60 per percent cent syrup syrupcontains con tains 700 700 g.g. (l(1 lb. lb. 99 o2.,3 OZ., 3cups) cups) to to 66dl. dl. (l(1 pint, pint, 2| 2icups) cups) water. water.

*

HOME HOMEFREEZING FREEZING OF OFFRUIT FRUIT Fruit Fruit

Preparation Preparation

Processing Processing

Apples Apples

Select Select crisp, crisp, firm fion apples. apple-~. Wash, Wash,peel peeland and core. core. Slice Slice medium medium apples applesinto intotwelfths, twelfths, larger largersizes sizesinto into sixteenths. sixteenths. Blanch Blanch I1minute. minute. Use Use40 40per percent cent syrup. syrup. For Foraa better betterquality qualityproduct productadd add|teaspoon t teaspoonascorbic ascorbic acid acid to toeach each generous generouslitre litre(2 (2pints, pints, 2| 2ipints) pints)syrup. syrup.

Pack Packwell weIl and andcover coyerwith with syrup. syrup. l,eave Leaveheadspace, headspace, seal seal and and fteeze. freeze.

Apple Applesauce sauce

Select Select full-flavoured full-Ilavoured apples. apples. Wash, Wash, peel peel ififdesired, desired,core core and andslice. slice. Add Add aalittle !ittlewater. water. Cook Cookuntil untiltender. tender. Cool Cool and andstrain strainor orliquidise. liquidise. Sweeten Sweetentototaste. tas te.

Pack Packinto intocontainers, containers, leave leaveheadspace, headspace,seal sealand and fteeze. freeze.

736

PRETZEL PRETZEL Fruit

Preparation

Processing

Apricots

Select Select firm, ripe, uniformly-coloured fruit. Sort, wash, halve halve and stone. Peel and slice if if desired. desired. If If not peeled, heat in boiling water skins from water ft minute minute to keep skins toughening during du ring freezing. freezing. Cool Cool and and drain. Use 40 toughening percent darkening, addt syrup.To per cent syrup. To keep from darkening, add.t generous litre (2 pints, teaspoon each generous teaspoon ascorbic ascorbic acid to each 2| 2t pints) syrup. Can Can also be frozen frozen crushed crushed or pur6ed. puréed. For cru Use fully iipe crushed ripe fruit. For shed apricots, heat in water It minute, minute, cool and peel. Stone and crush. crush. boiling water quarter and press For pur6e, For purée, stone, quarter press through through a sieve sieve or liquidise; or heat apricots in small amounts ofwater of water and press press through through sieve sieve or liquidise. With each generous litre (2 pints, 2f 2t pints) prepared prepared apricots mix generous Add i+ teaspoon teaspoon ascorbic 225 g. (8 oz., I1 cup) sugar. Add q,rp) tablespoons, scant *t cup) acid dissolved dissolved in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, water to fruit fruit before adding sugar.

coyer with syrup, Pack, cover leave headspace. Seal and freeze. freeze.

Berries

Select ripe juicy berries. Sort, wash and Select firm, fully ripe drain weil. raspberries or strawberries well. Do not wash raspberries necessary. unless necessarv.

berries into Pack berries cover with containers and coyer syrup, 40 or 50 per cent syrup, depending on sweetness sweetness depending of fruit. Leave headspace. of Seal and freeze. Can also be open frozen and then packed with or without packed sugar.

Cherries

Select tree-ripened cherries. cherries. Stem, sort and Select bright red, tree-ripened wash. Drain.

Pack cherries cherries into cover with containers and coyer cold 60 per cent syrup. Or pack open freeze and then pack mixed with sugar in the quarter proportion of of a quarter of fruit. the weight of

Peaches Peaches and

Select Select firm, ripe, well-coloured well-coloured fruit. Wash, stone (pit) Cover and peel. Cut into halves, quarters or slices. Coyer with 40 per cent syrup. To prevent darkening, add teaspoon ascorbic ascorbic acid for each generous litre ft teaspoon 2| pints) syrup. (2 pints, 2~

Seal and freeze.

Plums and and prunes

Wash, cut in halves or in Select Select firm, ripe fruit. Wash, quarters and stone. Pack cut fruit into containers. Coyer with cold 40 or 50 per cent syrup Cover fruit with fruit. For improved improved quality, depending tartness of of fruit. depending on tartness ascorbic acid to each generous litre add tI teaspoon teaspoon ascorbic (2 pints, 2t 2{ pints) syrup.

Leave headspace. Seal freeze. Can be frozen and freeze. purée. as cooked pur6e.

Rhubarb

Select firm, tender, well-coloured well-coloured stalks with good 2lto flavour to 5 flavour and few fibres. Wash, Wash, trim and cut into 2t (l to 2 inch) pieces or in lengths lengths to fit the package. cm. (1 Blanching for 1I minute and cooling Blanching in boiling boiling water for promptly helps retain colour colour and flavour.

Pack either raw or rhubarb into blanched blanched rhubarb containers, and coyer cover with cold 40 per cent syrup. Leave headspace. freeze. Can be Seal and freeze. frozen without syrup.

nectarines nectarines

baked in the shape of a loose knot, hard, sprinkled with salt and cumin seeds. Pretzels are served with beer. Prepare separately the paste and the liquid for cooking cooking the Prepare separately pretzels. Paste. Allow 2t 2| dl. dl. (scant -tI pint, generous cup) water for Pasle. (l oz.) yeast, yeast,2lteaspoons 500g. flour,25 o2.,4|cups) g. (18 oz., 4t cups) flour, 25 g. (1 2t teaspoons 500 paste salt and 4 teaspoons and teaspoons caraway seed. seed. Make Make aa stiff pas te and salt knead it weil. well. Leave to rise for for 30 30 minutes in aa warm warm place, knead covered with a cloth. (scant pint, pint, 2* Liquid. 55 dl. dl. (scant 2| cups) cups) water, water, 22 teaspoons teaspoons. Liquid. bicarbonate soda, soda, 1lfi teaspoons teaspoons carbonate 0off ammonia. bicarbonate

cooking methods. cooking cooker is also used for canning. methods. A pressure cooker The food is cooked under pressures ranging from 3;13f; pounds to most often to 20 20 pounds but 15 pounds. Ali All air often under under 15 but most air is expelled and building expelled under under steam before capping ventand building up steam before capping the vent pressure. Heat pressure cooker the pressure. Heat within within the the cooker can can reach the pressure 250°F 250'F thus causing causing food to be cooked more more quickly.

PR0TRE -- Small sea PRtTRE sea fish about the size size of aa smelt, lOto l0 to 18 cm. (4 to 7 inches) long, with a silvery silvery star-shaped star-shaped mark on its sides. Its flesh is delicate. PRETZEL. BRETZEL -- German and Aisa PRETZEL. tian sa vou ry biscui biscuit,t, Alsatian savoury 737 73'1

PRICKLY PEAR PRICKL y PEAR

profiteroles Preparing Preparing profiteroles (Maison Desmeuzes. (Maison Desneuzes. Phol. Phot.Larousse) Itrousse)

(Pitisserie) -- Little PROFITEROLE paste Little balls PROFITEROLE (Pâtisserie) balls of of Chou Chou paste (see DOUGH) (see piped through DOUGH) piped forcing-bag. through aa forcing-bag. After After cooking, cooking, they filled with with various various substa.nces; substances; they are are filled game or game pur6e, cheese or other other purée, cheese mixtures, mixtures, etc.; etc.; or or with with sweet sweet jams, etc. custards, custards, jams, etc. Profiteroles, Profiteroles, filled filled with with vanilla vanilla custard custard and and iced iced with with caramelised caramelised SYruP, syrup, are for making are used uoquembouches used for making croquembouches (q.v.) and (q.v.) gateaux Saint-Honoré (q.v.). and gateaux Saint-Honor6 (q.v.). Profiteroles garnish soup. Profiteroles with with aa savoury filling are savoury filling are used to garnish soup. used to Profiteroles Profiteroles are are forced forced through through aa forcing forcing bag round bag with with aa round nozzle nozzle on on to to aa baking baking tin. They are tin. They with egg are brushed brushed with egg and and baked in in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. Garnish profiteroles with (see Garnish the pasny cream tbe profiteroles wlf"h French cream (see French pastry CREAMS) CREAMS) or or sweetened sweetened whipped whipped cream. cream. Arrange Arrange in in aa

pretzels, and Making pretzels. and the the finished finished article article Making

paste the pas pretzels and into pretzels plunge them and plunge Shape the te into them into into the the boiling liquid. They They will fall pan. Wh fall to the boiling en the bottom botrom of of the the pan. When they rise rise to to the the surface, put them surface, dry? dry, put they them on on aa baking baking sheet, sheet, sea salt, sprinkle with coarse sea salt, brush brush with with beaten egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle seeds. and bake in the oyen. with cumin seeds, oven.

Prickly Prickly pear pear

PRICKLY PRICKL y PEAR. PEAR. FIGUIER FrcurER DE BARBARIE BARBARTE -- Cactus with edible fruit, which generally eaten raw but can be stewed. which is generally

PRIMEUR -- Fruit, vegetable vegetable or or any any other foodstuff obob,

tained before before the normal normal season season ofits tained of its maturity.

PRINCESSE (A (À LA) LA) -- Name Name for for various preparations various preparations in cookery cookery and and pastry-making. pastry-making. in The garnish garnish known known as as princesse, princesse, composed composed of The of green and truffles, is is chiefly chiefly used used to to accompany asparagus tips tips and asparagus Suprêmes of of chicken chicken (see (see CHICKEN). Suprdmes

Profiteroles Profiteroles

pyramid on aa dessert dessert platter and and pour Chocolate ovet Chocolate sauce sauce over (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

PRINTANIER, pRrNrl|.rrtRg PRINTANIÈRE - A mixture of PRINTANIER. pnmuMER, vegetables, scooped scooped out in the shape of little balls balls with with a vegetables,

special vegetable vegetable baller, or cut into dice or lozenges, cooked special separa tel y in in water water and and dressed dressed with butter. butter. separately The term term dà la la printaniire printanière is applied to various various dishes, dishes, but The

PROVENÇALE (A LA) PROVENQALE (À LA) -- Describes Describes certain preparations certain preparations characterised by garlic mixed, by the the use use of of tomato tomato and and garlic mixed, and and sometimes sometimes of of garlic alone. alone.

vegetables.

PROVENCE, COMTÉ COMTE DE DE NICE I\IICE -- Garlic Garlic is is the the base base of of

mainly to to meat meat entries entrées garnished gamished with with early early or or mixed mainly

738 738

PROVENCE. COMTÉ COMTE DE DE NICE NICE PROVENCE, almost ail all Provençal Provengal dishes, dishes, but but itit must must be be remembered remembered that that almost garlic has the Midi Midi garlic has not not such such aa strong strong taste taste or or such such aa bitter bitter the flavour as as that that of of the the northern northern districts. districts. flavour Culinary specialities. specialities. Among Among aa long long list list of of Provençal Provengal dishes dishes Culinary are are garlic ; aïgo-saou Soups : garlic; (a kind aig o- s aou (a kind of of bouillabaisse b ouillabarsse with with white white Soups: fish, the the fish fish used used being being eaten eaten with with aïoli aioli or or other other sauce); sauce); fish, conger; aïgo-bouido aigo-bouido with poached eggs; with poached eggs; mariage, mariage, aa very very thick thick conger; soup made made ofbeef, of beef, mutton mutton orchicken or chicken stock stock and andrice;pouline, rice; poutine, soup made with with tiny tiny fish (a minute fish fry; fry ;nonats nonats (a minute Mediterranean Mediterranean fish), fish), made in the the region region of pistou, whicb Nice; pistou, of Nice; which contains contains French French beans, beans, in potatoes, tomatoes tomatoes and and vermicelli, vermicelli, and and isis finished finished with with an an potatoes, aillade of ofbasil grated cheese. and grated cheese. aillade basil and Fish: bouillabaisse; bouillabaisse; bourride, bourride, aa kind kind of of bouillabaisse bouillabause made made Fish: part of with white white fish, fish, but but without without saffron saffron seasoning. seasoning. Part of the the with liquid serves servcs to to soak soak slices put in slices ofbread ofbread put in aa dish; dish; the the rest, rest, with with liquid (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 yolk per tablespoons) aïoli per person, person, aiblf and and 1I egg egg yolk 22 tablespoons prepare aa sauce is used used to to prepare poured over sauce which which is is poured over the the slices slices of of is bread. bread. Fish is is eaten eaten with with aïoli, aibli, aa kind kind of mayonnaise made of mayonnaise made with with Fish garlic purée, pur6e, allowing, person, 1I large per person, garlic, allowingo per large whole clove garlic, whole clove garlic yolk, salt, egg yolk, (6 tablespoons, salt, 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant tI cup) cup) oil oil and and aa 1I egg juice. little lemon lemon juice. little Dried salt salt cod cod en grilled red en rayte; rayte; grilled red mullet mullet with with fennel; Dried (a macédoine sartafugnano (a macCdoine of of little little fish fish cooked cooked in in oil oil in in the the sartadagnano fryrng pan, pan, pressed pressed together together in in cooking cooking so so that that they can can be be frying turned like like aa pancake, pancake, sprinkled sprinkled with with hot hot vinegar vinegar on on the the turned plate). olate).

Stockfish, belonging particularly to belonging more more particularly to the the region region of of Stockfish, Nice, isis dried dried salt salt cod, cod, hard hard as as wood, wood, and and needing needing long long Nice, soaking before before use; use; aa kind kind of of stew stew made made with with stockfish stockfish soaking includes intestines, intestines, onions garlic, sweet pimentos, onions and and leeks, leeks, garlic, sweet pimentos, includes aromatic plants, plants, potatoes potatoes and (stocaficada). and black blackolives olives(stocaficada). aromatic Esquinado of Toulon consists of Toulon consists of of crabs crabs cooked cooked in in vinegar vinegar Esquinado and water, water, dressed dressed and quantity of and mixed mixed with with an an equal equal quantity and of mussels, then then tbe the crab crab shells shells are are refilled refilled with with the mussels, the mixture, mixture. sprinkled with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and browned. browned. sprinkled Poutine and prepare savoury andmelet are used pur6es, such to prepare used to savoury purées, Pouline melet are such as pissalat, tapenade, tapenade,etc. They'ssaladiire,aaspeciality Nice, speciality of of Nice, aspissalat, etc. Thefissaladière, an open open tart tart of of ordinary pastry or ordinary pastry or bread bread dough isis an dough filled filled with with chopped onions onions cooked cooked in in oil, oil, covered covered with with fillets fillets of chopped of anchovy anchovv and black black olives. olives. and Pan bagna bagna isis aa slice slice of of bread bread moistened moistened with with olive Pan olive oil oil and and covered witb with anchovy anchovy fillets, fillets, thin thin slices slices oftomato covered of tomato and and capers. capers. Panisso isis aa porridge porridge of of cbick-peas chick-peas or Panisso or corn corn meal meal cooled cooled in in very small small saucers saucers and and fried fried in in oil. oil. It It isis eaten very sprinkled with eaten sprinkled with sugar. sugar. Meat: Beef Beef en en daube; daube: leg IeS of of mutton mutton Avignonnâise; pieh Avignonnaise; pieds Meat: paquets of of the the Pomme Pomme district; gayettes sausages district; gayettes (made of sausages (made paquets of pig's liver); liver); sou-fassum, sou-fassum, aa kind kind of of stuffed stuffed cabbage pig's cabbage cooked cooked pot-au-fez or in aa pot-au-feu or with with mutton, mutton, aa speciality speciality of in of the the GrasseGrasseAntibes region; region; liver liver àd la la moissonneuse. moissonneuse. Antibes (squash) flower and cereals: cereals: Stuffed Stulfed marrow marrow (squash) Vegetables and s; flowers; Swiss chard gratin; tart chard au au gratin; soft fruits tart of of soft in the Nice style; Swiss the Nice style; fruits in (zucchini); ravioli, baby marrows marrows (zucchini); ravioli, cannelloni, cannelloni, capelstuffed baby capelletti.

Pwurguc, Aigo pea soup. soup Aito bouido. bouido, Chick wtrh "ce. Chick pea nce. Anchoide. Anchoide, Soup wlth ARSEILLES MARSEILLES Poutorgue. Solode provcngole. Stuffed pepperr, Artichoke, tomalO. Grilled peppers. Artichoke. olrves. Grilled marrow romaro. marrow Salade provençale. Stuf{ed olives. omefeltes. Stuf{ed Sruffed
I TALY

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o a r{ p

AUPHINE

ALPES

D

f#t'rl**nr*i}i"Al::

ii"r-ili'6ht !.

Trumes.Nourar

h;ilrif1.'

k$rii"i';

Ii;lllE::-H:',;:;j:fi

COMTE

'dl,::,:':@ Mussels. Crabs Red mullet au roma"n. Veal ith morels. Pintadons.

^l'""no"il"T',*:l,,,u"p"go."

Sorlodagnano. Pickled sardines. Grills, Cod a la niçOise. Grilled sea-perch sea·perch wrth wlth fennel. fennel. Grrlled Grey muller, mullet, Grlt-heads, G,lt-heads. Gnocchi. Grey Rovrol, Ravioli. Estouffode Esrouffade of of beef, beef. Rogorit Ragoût of of krd, kld. Eoudrn Boudin orx aux herb€s. herbes. Baby marrows, marrows. Groun{s Gratinés d'herbes d'herbes
Scuffed aubergines----M=E=D=I=T-=E=R=R~=N=E-:A =N

Gasronomic Gastrooomic map map of ofProvence Provence

739 739

=====1

PRUNE PRUNE Prunes raw having having been be eaten eaten raw Prunes should should preferably preferably be previously soaked for 24 hours in cold water. Cut lengthwise previously to remove rem ove the stone. They are usually served for breakfast. (stewed prunes). COMPOTE Compote of coMporE DE IRUNEAUX of prunes (stewed Compote PRUNEAUX have swollen the prunes in cold water. When When they they have -- Soak the cover with sufficiently, them in a sauce saucepan sufficiently, drain and put them pan and coyer g. (18 oz.) g. (4 oz., oz.,1cup) tcup) sugar for 500 g. cold water. Add 100 g. fruit. Flavour with or cinvanilla or lemon or or orange rind, rind, vanilla with lemon fruit. namon. Cook gently for about 1t hour. prunes with with red red or wine. COMPOTE Compote of prunes or white white wine. couporE DE Compote pRUNEs substitutvrN ROUGE, RoucE, BLANC BLANC -- The same as above, substitutPRUNES AU VIN ing red or white wine for water.

goats' milk Cheeses: Strong cheese Cheeses: Strong cheese of Mont-Ventoux; Mont-Ventoux; goats' cheese of the Alpilles, the Maures and the the Esterel; sheeps' sheeps'

milkcheese of Banon, Brousse, Brousse, Valdebleou. milk cheese of and pompe Pastry Pastry and and specialities: Gibassier, fougasse, fovgasse, and gdteaux gâteaux (this last particularly particularly for R6veiiion, Réveillon, the Christmas and calissons calissons of morning bugnes of of Arles, biscuits biscuits and morning feast); bugnes of Aix, and, praline om Grasse. and praline flower flowerss frfrom lVines Wines -- Provence, Provence, birthplace birthplace of the French wine, offers a generous, full-bodied wide of wines: wines: generous, full-bodied reds; reds; dry, wide variety variety of to bouilaromatic white accompaniment to aromatic white wines wines (fitting (fitting accompaniment crustaceans and fish). labaisse, fish fish soups, sea sea food, grilled crustaceans The best The best known known are are those of Cassis (Bouches-du-Rh6ne), (Bouches-du-Rhône), (Var), Palette (Bouches-du-Rh6ne) and and Bellet Bandol (Var), Bandol Palette (Bouches-du-Rhône) (Alpes-Maritimes). of the C6tes Côtes de Provence Provence and' (Alpes-Maritimes). The wines of C6teaux d'Aix category. Côteaux d'Aix are in the V.D.Q.S. V.D.Q.S. category. Provence, of Provence, of Vaucluse Vaucluse is now part of Since the département Since dipartement of we C6tes du we must include the wines of the left bank bank of the Côtes all are the splendid Rhone m6ridionales. méridionales. Most important of ail glowing reds and an reds and Châteauneuf-du-Pape wines, Chdteauneuf-du-Pape wines, strong, strong, glowing communes excellent excellent dry white wine. Then there are the four communes Vacqueyras, the Vinsobres, Cairanne, and Vacqueyras, of Vinsobres, Cairanne, Gigondas Gigondas and of wine of muscat wine the muscat natural sweet Rasteau and natural sweet wine wine of of Rasteau and the Beaumes-de-Venise. Beaumes-de-Venise.

PUANT MACÉRÉ MACf,RE -_ See CHEESE. PUANT of different different kinds cookery) -- Stew PUCHERO (Spanish cookery) Stew made of PUCHERO of meat and vegetables. ofmeat

pouDrNc -- Name given to to numerous dishes, PUDDING. POUDING Name given PUDDING. both sweet and savoury, served hot or cold, which are made manyy different different ways. up in man pouorxcs D'ENTRÉESPUDDINGS. POUDINGS SAVOURY o'ENTnfss VOURY PUDDINGS. SA pudding (English cookery) Mix Beefsteak pudding Mix 1I kg. ke.Qi lb., 8i 8* (2* lb., (l+ lb., 4 cups) suet (having first first sieved flour with 600 g. (Ii cups) sieved it removed the skin and and shredded it and strings from the suet and removed of salt and about 2 dl. (jfinely), a good pinch of pint, scant cup) $pint, water. The mixture mixture should be a smooth and soft dough. pastry, line buttered pudding Using two-thirds of the the pastry, line aa buttered Using basin or aa round-bottomed round-bottomed mould. mould. Arrange in in layers layers 1l*t kg. basin (3* lb.) beef, cut cut in in slices slices about about 1I cm. cm. (t (3i $ inch) thick, season pepper and grated nutmeg sprinkle with with salt, salt, pepper and grated nutmeg and and sprinkle with parsley. Moisten with water in in sufficient onion chopped on ion and parsley. rest of the pastry, to co cover meat. Roll Roll out out the rest quantity to ver the meat. cover the pudding and seal the edges. coyer forgetting to top, not forgetting Tie aa scalded, floured cloth over the top, of boiling boiling water, for 3 cloth. Cook in a pan of make a pleat in the clotho is used, for 4 hours if the meat is is taken hours if fillet of beef is part of the animal. Keep the water boiling some other part from sorne more if if necessary. necessary. constantly, adding more pudding (English cookery) -- This This is and kidney pudding Beefsteak and pudding, using beef and and beef made like like Beefsteak pudding, slices of beef using slices made kidney. (English cookery) in cookery) -- Prepare in Beefsteak and oyster pudding (English pudding, adding uncooked oysters oysters the same way as Beefsteak pudding, to the filling. voL^lnte ÀA LA pudrlings ài la Richelieu. BOUDINS on VOLAILLE tl Chicken puddings BouDrNs DE Chicken fine RIcHELTEU -- Line Line small, small, well-buttered well-buttered mou moulds with fine Ids with RICHELIEU (see FORCEMEATS). Fill with a salpicon Chickenforcemeat Chickenforcemeat (see blended of chicken, truffles and and mushrooms, blended (q.v.) of breast of (see.SAUCE). with Cover with very thick sauce (see with very SAUCE). Coyer thick Allemande Allemande sauce forcemeat, which which should should be chicken forcemeat, another another layer layer of of chicken water. cold water. of a knife dipped in cold smoothed smoothed over over with the blade ofa poach in pan of in the the and poach of hot hot water water and Place Place the the moulds moulds in in aa pan breadcrumbs dry, dip in egg and breadcrumbs the moulds, oyen. Turn out of ofthe moulds, dry, oven. Turn golden. until light golden. and aqd fry in clarified butter untillight dish, packing them them in aa circle on on aa dish, "Arrange Arrange the the puddings in with fried fried the dish dish with the middle middle of of the fairly fairly tightly. tightly. Garnish Garnish the (see SAUCE) SAUCE) sauce (see parsley. Serve Pdrigueux or Suprême Suprdme sauce Serve with Périgueux it. with diced truffles added to it. prepared in in the following the following also be be prepared Chicken Chicken puddings can can also be of of aa which should should be forcemeat, which manner: manner: roll roll the the chicken chicken forcemeat, Poach them. Slit them. Slit fairly firm into little cylinders. cylinders. Poach firm consistency, consistency, into and close close indicated, and open with the side, stuff stuffwith the salpicon salpicon indicated, open on on one side, and fry fry in in clarified clarified the in egg egg and and breadcrumbs and the opening. opening. Dip in butter. (stuffed). BOUDINS Prepare, DE GIBIERS GIBIERS -- Prepare, pudding (stuffed). Game BouDINs DE Game pudding

PRUNE. IRUNEAU PRUNEAU -- Red or purple plum, dried in the sun or in the oyen, treatment it will keep for a long time oven, after which treatment in a perfect state. Most plums can be dried, but particularly of Tours, the Catherine Catherine the Ente, or Agen, the Large Damson of and the Imperial. peeled, stoned, dried dried in the The Perdrigon, Perdrigon, when it has been peeled, sun and flattened, is commercially commercially known under the name of plum, unpeeled, The same plum, Pistole. The Pistole. unpeeled, unstoned, scalded, then Pruneaufleuri. fleuri. dried in the shade, is called a Brignole Brignole or Pruneau and In France France the most renowned renowned prunes are those of of Agen and of of Touraine. prunes are however, is is less Californian prunes are good. Their flesh, however, delicate than that of French prunes. delicate ofFrench Prunes are most often cooked in aa compote. Cooked and preparation ofvarious sweets, prunes are used for the preparation stoned prunes such as cakes, cakes, puddings, soufflés, souffl6s, tarts, etc. prune is The prune for athletes, The nutritious and and excellent excellent for is very very nutritious children and expectant expectant mothers. It is also a laxative.

(French Governmenl Puyrémas, Puyrernas, Vaucluse Yalucluse (French Tourist Office) Ofice) Governtnent Tourisl

740 740

PUDDING PUDDING Brazilian Brazilian pudding. pudding. pouDING POUDING nnEsrlmN BRÉSILIEN -- Prepare Prepare the the same same mixture Putititinto intoaaplain plain mixture asfor as for Tapioca Tapiocapudding pudding(see (seebelow). below).Put mould Poach in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Setve Serve mould coated coated with with caramel. caramel. Poach without without sauce sauce or orany any accompaniment. accompaniment. French POUDING AU AU PAIN PAIN AÀrrc' LA FRAI'I9AIsE FRANÇAISE -French bread bread pudding. pudding. PouDING Soak Soak 300 300 g.g. (11 (Il oz., oz., 51".,pt) 5i cups) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs in in 11litre litre (lt (1i(9pints, pints, generous quart) boiled boiled milk milk with with vanilla vanilla and and 250 250 g. g. (9 oz., oz., generous quart) generous generouscup) cup) sugar. sugar. Sieve Sievethe themixture. mixture. Add Add 44whole wholeeggs eggsand and 66yolks. stiffly beaten beaten egg eggwhites. whites. yolks. Fold Fold inin 44 stiffly Fill Fill aa mould mould sprinkled sprinkled with with fine fine breadcrumbs breadcrumbs with with this this mixture. Cook in in the the oven oven in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Lewe Leave aa few few mixture. Cook moments moments before before turning turning it it out out of of its its mould. mould. Serve Serve with with Custard SAUCE), zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.), (q.v.), or or aa fruit fruit Custard sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), sauce, sauce, separately separately or or poured poured over over the the pudding. pudding. German POUDING AU AU PAIN PAIN AÀr'llrnulNon L'ALLEMANDEGerman bread bread pudding. pudding. PouDINc Soak Soak 300 300 g. g. (11 (J 1 o2., oz., 5* 5i cup$ cups) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs in in I1litre litre (lf (I;Ï pints, pints, generous quart) Rhine Rbine wine wine or or Moselle, Moselle, to to which which has has been been generous quart) added added 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz, oz., scant seant cup) cup) brown brown sugar sugar and and aa little little cinnamon. cinnamon. Sieve Sieve this this mixture, mixture, add add 44 whole whole eggs, eggs, 66 yolks yolks and and 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous generous Ii cup) cup) melted meIted butter, butter, and and 44 stiffly stiffly beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. Put Put the the mixture mixture in in buttered buttered moulds mou Ids sprinkled sprinkled with with breadbreadServe with crumbs. crumbs. Cook Cook in in the tbe oven oven in in aa bain-marie. bain-marie. Serve with fruit fruit sauce sauce flavoured fiavoured with with kirsch kirsch or or any any other other liqueur. liqueur. Er PAIN AU pudding. PoIIDINc German AUX German bread bread and and fruit fruit pudding. POUDING AU PAIN ET AUx FRUITs FRUITS A À t'ltmuaNos L'ALLEMANDE -- Put Put in in aa basin basin 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz') oz.) bread bread cut eut in in small small dice dice and and fried fried in in butter. butter. Pour Pour on on this this bread bread 2| 2i dl. dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) boiled boiled milk. milk. Let Let it it soak soak in in well. weIl. (scant ji pint, (2 g' cup) oz', dice, 50 small in Add Add 2tooked 2 cooked apples apples cut eut in sm ail dice, 50 g. (2 oz., It cup) g. (2 c.tp) gtound 50 g. diced orange peel, peel, 50 (2 oz',* oz., icup) ground almonds almonds diced candied candied orange water swell in quantity ofstoned of stoned raisins, and the same quantity and the same raisins, put put to to swell in water and drained. and grated lemon sugar, aa little (3 oz., g. (3 cup) sugar, Add 75 75 g. oz.,generous Add generous Itcup) little grated lemon together well together ingredients well yolks. Mix these ingredients peel and Mix ail all these and 33 egg egg yolks. peel Fill aa whites. Fill egg whites. beaten egg stiffly beaten them 33 stiffly finally add add to to them and finally and in in the the oven oven in Cook in pudding basin this mixture. mixture. Cook with this basin with buttered pudding buttered pudding rest rest before before Let tbe the pudding 45 minutes. minutes. Let for 45 bain-marie for aa bain-marie white it with with aa white Coat it dish. Coat to aa dish. on to the mould mould on turning itit out out of of the turning and 22 (+ pint, wine and pint, seant cup) wine scant cup) dl. (t with 22 dl. wine sauce sauce made made with wine jam. (3 tablespoons) apricot jam. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) apricot tablespoons pouuNc AU AU VIN vIN AU PAIN PAIN AU wine. POUDING pudding with red wine. with red Bread pudding Bread pudding bread pudding as German way as German bread same way Prepare in in the the same RoucE -- Prepare ROUGE wine. by red red wine. wine by but replace replace the the white white wine but g. pouDING DE 150 g. Ingredients. 150 DE CABINET cABINET -- Ingredients. pudding. POUDING Cabinet pudding. Cabinet (3 (lady fingers), tablespoons (3 fingers), 22 tablespoons (5 oz.) biscuits (lady finger biscuits oz.) sponge sponge finger (5 (3 tablespoons (3 into dice, dice, 22 tablespoons fruits cut cut into crystallised fruits tablespoons) crystallised tablespoons) pint, 2±cups) 2|cups) dl' (1(1 pint, raisins, 66 dl. cleaned raisins, and cleaned tablespoons) stoned stoned and tablespoons) g' (1 (l (see CUSTARD), 25 g. CUSTARD), 25 custard Vanilla eus mixture for for baked baked Vanilla mixture tard (see glass glass kirsch, small glass kirsch, 1I small small glass butter, 1I small oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, oz., vanilla-flavoured pint, scant cups) vanilla-flavoured scant 22 cups) dl. (f pint, maraschino, 44 dl. maraschino, (see CREAMS). CREAMS). uean (see Custard eream Custard in itit arrange in and arrange mould and cylindrical mould Butter aa cylindrical Method. Butter Method. in soaked in up and and soaked fingers broken broken up sponge fingers layers of ofthe alternate layers alternate the sponge the Fill up up the liqueur. Fill in liqueur. soaked in raisins, also also soaked liqueur and and the the raisins, liqueur prepared in in the the usual usual mixture prepared custard mixture mould with with tbe the baked baked cllstard mould (see CUST way (see CUSTARD). ARD). way water and and hot water pan two-thirds full of of hot two-thirds full Put the mould inin aa pan the mould Put little pudding rest rest aa little Let the the pudding for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Let cook in in the the oven oven for cook cream with Custard Custard eream Serve with mould. out of of the the mou before turning turning itit out Id . Serve before (see CREAMS). CREAMS). (see of sorts of all sorts prepared with with ail be prepared puddings can can be Cabinet puddings Cabinet (q.v.) or zabaglione(q with zabaglione be served servedwitb can be flavours, and they they can flavours , and .v.) or different fruit fruit sauces. sauces. difTerent MARRoNS lux MARRONSpudding. POUDING sourrrf AUX PouDING SOUFFLÉ soulfi6 pudding. Chestnut soufflé Chestnut peeledchestnuts, chestnuts, lb.) peeled ke.(2± fine sieve sieve 1I kg. Rub through through aafine Q* lb.) Rub welldrained. drained. andweil syrupand vanilla-flavoured syrup lightvanilla-flavoured cookedininaalight cooked 150g.g.(5(5 spoon, 150 woodenspoon, pur6e, stirring withaawooden stirringwith Add totothe thepurée, Add

usingvarious various game game forcemeats forcemeats and and suitable suitabJesalpicons salpicons (q.v.), (q.v.), using for Chicken Chickenpuddings puddingsdàlala Richelieu. Richelieu. asdescribed described ininthe therecipe recipe for as Mutton pudding pudding (English (Englisb cookery). cookery). PouDINc POUDING DE DE MouroN MOUTON -Mutton Proceed as as for for Beefsteak Beefsteak pudding pudding using using mutton mutton instead instead of of Proceed beef. beef. (DESSERT) PUDDINGS. .PouDINGs SWEET(DESSERT)PUDDINGS POUDINGSD'ENTREl,tErs D'ENTREMETSSWEET Englisb rlmond almond pudding. pudding. pouDING POUDING AUx AUX AMANDES AMANDES AÀ English L'ANGL.a,ISE L'ANGLAISE -- Cream Cream together together 125 125 g. g. g+ (4{ oz., oz., generous generous I cup) cup) butter butter and and 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 o2.,3 oz., i cup) cup) sugar sugar in in aa basin. basin.Add Add 250 250 g.g. (9 (9 and chopped chopped finely. finely . oz., generous generous 22 cups) cups) almonds, almonds, blanched blanched and oz., Season Season with with aa pinch pinch of of salt. salt. Add Add I1 teaspoon teaspoon orange-flower orange-fiower water water or or ji teaspoon teaspoon orange orange extract, extract, 22 whole whole eggs eggs and and 22 yolks yolks and and 44 tablespoons tablespoons (*cup) (t cup) thick, thick, fresh fresh cream. cream. Blend Blend well. weIl. Pour Pour into into aa pudding pudding basin. basin. Cook Cook in in aa bain-marie bain-marie in in aa slow slow and serve serve in in the the same same dish. dish. oven, and oven, American American pudding. pudding. pouDINc POUDING A À r'nldnrcArNE L'AMÉRICAINE -- Put Put in in aa basin basin 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz'lf oz., li cups) cups) breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) cup) unsifted g. (4 (4 oz., oz., *i cup) cup) brown brown sugar sugar and and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 unsifted flour, flour, 100 100 g. oz.) chopped chopped beef beef marrow. marrow. Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., scant seant cup) cup) crystallised eut in dice and and a a little finely finely shredded shredded crystallised fruits cut orange and and lemon peel. peel. orange Bind Bind with I1 whole egg and 33 yolks. yolks. Add a little little cinnamon cinnamon glass of of rum rum or brandy. brandy. Mix and grated nutmeg and 11 small glass weil. well. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture into a buttered, buttered, floured floured mould. mou Id. Cook Cook in a bain-marie. Serve Serve with rum-flavoured rum-flavoured zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.). bain-marie. Engfish POUDING DE poMMEs POMMES A À L'nncLAIsn L'ANGLAISEEnglisb apple pudding. pudding. pouDING Line Line a a pudding pudding basin basin with with suet suet pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH, rolled out out to 88 mm. (* (t inch) inch) thick. Dumpling dough), rolled Fill with cut-up apples, adding sugar and a flavouring of of of grated lemon lemon rind powdered cinnamon. Put a flat piece piece of rind and powdered joining it carefully pastry on top of carefully at the tbe edges. of the pudding, joining and put it into a cloth, tied very firmly, and Wrap the basin in aa clotb, constantly boiling; Keep the water water constantly water. Keep sauc€pan sauce pan ofboiling of boiling water. cook for about 2 hours. Turn out onto a dish. pears way with with pears pudding may in the made in The pudding may be be made The the same way instead of apples.

i

Puddingmould Pudding mould


pouDING DE into aasaucepan saucepan Put into pudding POUDING Biscuit pudding DE BISCUITS BIscUITS -- Put Biscuit moisten and moi (9oz) biscuits and finger biscuits 250 sten sponge finger 250 g.g. (9 oz\ crumbled crumbledsponge with 150 150 g.g. sweetenedwith pint, 2i boiling milk milk sweetened with 2| cups) with 66dl. dl. (I(l pint, cups) boiling (5oz., (5 i cup) cup) sugar. o2.,3 sugar. Add wooden spoon. spoon. Add with aawooden heat, with Stir over the the heat, Stir thi~ this mixture mixture over fruits, g. (5(5oz., crystallised fruits, diced crystallised anddiced 150 g. currants and 150 oz.,1I cup) cup)currants melted yolks,125 oz.,icup) 125g.g.(4 eggyolks, soaked soaked ininkirsch. kirsch. Add Add33egg Goz., I cup)melted whites. butter and and 33stiffly beaten egg eggwbites. butter stifflybeaten with andsprinkled sprinkled with buttered and hasbeen been buttered Fillaamould mouldwhich whichbas Fill baintheoven ovenininaabainmixture.Cook Cookinin the breadcrumbs with with tbis this mixture. breadcrumbs (seeSA SAUCE). sauce(see marie. UCE). marie. Serve Serve with withAprieot Apricot sauce

74r 741

PUDDING PUDDING

Ingredients for fruit pudding (C/dre) Ingredients for fruit pudding (Claire)

German bread pudding(Claire) bread and andfruit fruit pudding German (C/aire)

oz.,lcup) sugar and (a oz., ]cup) butter. Dry out over g. (4 and 100 100 g. OZ., ~ CUp) sugar oz., 1- cup) butter. Dry out over heat. Remove from heat, add 8 egg yolks and fold in carefully heat. Remove from heat, add 8 egg yolks and fold in carefully 6 stiffly beaten egg whites. Cook in a bain-marie. 6 stiffty beaten egg whites. Cook in a bain-marie. Serve with Custard cream (see CREAMS) flavoured with Serve with Custard cre am (see CREAMS) fiavoured with vanilla, or Apricot sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured with kirsch. vanilla, or Apricot sauce (see SAUCE) fiavoured with kirsch. Chocolate pudding. pouDrNG AU cHocolAr - Soften in the Chocolate pudding. POUDING AU CHOCOLAT - Soften in the oven 100 g. (4 oz.) semi-sweet chocolate. Work by hand in a oyen 100 g. (4 oz.) semi-sweet chocolate. Work by hand in a cloth I 50 g. (5 oz., generous f cup) butter until very soft. put it cloth 150 g. (5 OZ., generous t cup) butter until very soft. Put it in basin previously previously scalded scalded with with boiling boiling water, water, and and beat beat in aa basin with a wooden spoon. When it is creamy in consistency add with a wood en spoon. When it is creamy in consistency add 75 g. Q oz., generous f cup) castor sugar and 25 g. (l o2.,2 75 g. (3 OZ., generous i cup) castor sugar and 25 g. (1 OZ., 2 tablespoons) vanilla sugar; or 100 g. (4 oz.,tcup) sugar plus a tablespoons) vanilla sugar; or 100 g. (4 oz., tcup) sugar plus a few drops vanilla vanilla essence. essence. Beat to aa froth, froth, then then add add 88 egg egg few drops Beat to yolks, one by one, the chocolate beaten to a fine paste with i yolks, one by one, the chocolate beaten to a fine paste with a little g. (li (ll oz., sugar mixture, oz' 66 little of of the the butter butter and and sugar mixture, a0 40 g. tablespoons) sifted flour and 40 g.(lloz., *crrp) potato flour. tablespoons) sifted fiour and 40 g. (lt OZ., i cup) potato fiour. Complete stiffiy beaten Complete with with 55 stiffly beaten egg egg whites. whites. Put this mixture in a buttered and floured mould of about Put this mixture in a buttered and fioured mould of about (2f pints, 2| pints) in capacity. poach in a bain-marie lfI-!- litres litres (2i pints, 2i pints) in capacity. Poach in a bain-marie for for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. Let Let the the pudding pudding rest rest before before turning turning it it pour out of the mould out of the mould onto onto a a dish. dish. Pour chocolate-flavouied chocolate-fiavoured Custard crean (see CREAMS) over it. Custard cream (see CREAMS) over it. Clermont pudding (cold). pouDrNG cLERMoNT - Add to a Clermont pudding (cold). POUDING CLERMONT - Add to a Bavarian cream (q.v.) flavoured with rum a quarter its volume Bavarian cream(q.v.) fiavoured with rum a quarterits volume of of Chestnut Chestnut purde purée (see (see CHESTNUTS), CHESTNUTS), and and for fOT every every litre litre (lf (Il pint, generous quart) of the mixture 100 g. (a oz.) broken-up pint, generous quart) of the mixture 100 g. (4 oz.) broken-up marrons glacis. Put the mixture into a mould greased with marrons glacés. Put the mixture into a mould greased with sweet almond oil, and put on ice or in a deep-freeze to set. sweet almond oil, and put on ice OT in a deep-freeze to set. Serve in the mould, with a liqueur-flavoured fruit sauce. Serve in the mould, with a liqueur-fiavoured fruit sauce. pouDrNc Diplomat DIPLOMATE -- Decorate Decorate Diplomat pudding pudding (cold). (cold). POUDING DTrLoMATE an oiled mould with crystallised fruit, and fill it with alternate an oiled mould with crystallised fruit, and fill it with alternate layers of sponge finger (lady finger) crumbs soaked in kirsch layers of sponge finger (lady finger) crumbs soaked in kirsch or or other other liqueur, liqueur, and and aa Bavarian Bavarian cream cream (q.v.) (q.v.) flavoured fiavoured with with vanilla. vanilla. Put Put on on each each layer layer ofsponge of sponge biscuits biscuits currants currants and and sultanas sultanas (seedless raisins) which have been swelled in warm syrup and (seedless raisins) which have been swelled in warm syrup and well weil drained; drained; and, and, here here and and there, there, spoonfuls spoonfuls of ofapricof apricotjam. jam. Put Put on on ice ice or or in in aa deepfreezeto deep-freeze to set. set. Serve Serve with with aa fruit fruit and and liqueur sauce. liqueur sauce. 1 Diplomat pudding (cold). POUDING DrpLoMr{.rE DIPLOMATE Diplomat pudding with with frnit fruit (cold). FouDrNG Aux FRrrrrs - Prepare as described in the preceding recipe with AUX FRUlTS - Prepare as described in the preceding recipe with the the addition addition of of layers layer;s of of various various fruits, fruits, peeled, peeled, sliced sliced and and soaked in sugar and liquer. soaked in sugar and liquer. 1 Set the pudding on a serving dish; surround the base with Set the pudding on a serving dish; surround the base with fruit fruitcooked cookedininsyrup syrupand andwell welldrained. drained.

pouDrNG DE pudding. POUDING Fruit pudding. Ds FRUITS FRUrrs -- Put Put aa buttered buttered mou mould in Fruit Id in bain-marie. Pour Pour into into itit aa few few tablespoons tablespoons custard custard mixture mixture aa bain-marie. prepared as asfor pudding but Cabinet pudding but made made with with 66 whole whole eggs eggs prepared for Cabinet yolks to and 66 yolks (lf pints, to each each litre litre (li pints, generous generous quart) quart) milk, and milk, and and with the the addition addition of pur6e. of tI fruit fruit purée. with Cook the the custard custard until until set, put on set, then then put on top top aa layer layer of of the the Cook same fruit fruit used puree, previously used for previously cut for the the purée, cut up same and soaked soaked up and in sugar sugar and and liqueur. liqueur. Pour over over another another layer layer of ofcustard, in custard, and and continue to to fill fill the the mould mould with alternate alternate layers layers of of fruit fruit and and continue custard, cooking cooking the the layer layer of of custard custard each each time. time. Finish Finish custard, cooking in in the the bain-marie over gentle heat. over gentle heat. Let Let the the pudding cooking rest aa few few minutes before turning it it out. out. Serve rest Serve with with aa fruit sauce flavoured with kirsch or any other liqueur. sauce fiavoured with Fruit puddings puddings can can be prepared with apricots, nectarines, Fruit nectarines, peaches, pears, apples, etc. peaches, Lemon, tangerine pouDrNG or orange orange soufflé pudding. POUDING souffi6 pudding. Lemon, tangerine or prepare sourrrf AU crrRoN, A rueNolRINE, À SOUFFLÉ AU CITRON, À rA, LA MANDARINE, A L'ORANGE L'oRrd.NcE -- Prepare the same mixture the same mixture as for for Saxon pudding (see below). Flavour with Cook in aabain-marie. with lemon, tangerine tangerine or or orange. orange. Cook bain-marie. Serve Serve with Custard cream with cream (see CREAMS) CREAMS) flavoured fiavoured with lemon, tangerine tangerine or or orange. orange. Macaroni Macaroni pudding. ForJDrNc POUDING AUx AUX NourLLEs NOUILLES - prepared Prepared in the the same same way as Semolina Semo/ina pudding pudding (see (see below). Marrow Marrow pudding. pudding. pouDrNG POUDING À ln LA uonrrn MOELLE - Melt in a a bainmarie marie 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) marrow and 50 g. (2 o2.,6 OZ., 6 tablespoons) beef beef suet. suet. Let Let the the mixture mixture cool cool a little, little, and and beat beat in in a basin basin with 200 e. g. (7 (7 oz., OZ., scant scant cup) sugar. sugar. Add 75 g. (3 oz., OZ., li cups) cups) ?ffi bread, bread, soaked soaked in in milk milk and squeezed out, 33 whole who le eggi eggs and A8 yolks, yolks, 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., OZ., scant scant lf li cups) cups) chopped chopped crystallised fruit, 50 50 g g. (2 (2 oz., OZ., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) stoned stoned raisins raisins and 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz, OZ., t cup) cup) sultanas sultanas or or seedless seedless raisins. raisins. Mix Mix well weil together. together. Fill Fil! aa buttered buttered and and floured fioured mould mould with with this this mixture. mixture. Cook Cook gently gently inabain-marie. in a bain-marie. Serve Serve with with aa zabagliane zabaglione (q.v.), (q.v.), flavoured fiavoured with with rum. rum. Nesselrode Nesselrodepudding pudding I1(cokl). (cold). por,JDrNG POUDING NEssELRoDE NESSELRODE -- Add Add to to 1 litre litre (1 ~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) Custard Custard cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREA MS) 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz, OZ., I1 cup) cup) frne fine Chestnut ChestnUl purie purée (see (see CHESTNUTS), CHESTNUTS), 100 100g. g. (4 (4 oz.,i oz., i cup) cup) candied candied orange orange peel peel and and 100 100g. g. (4 (4oz., OZ.,Itcup) cup)crystallised crystallisedcherries cherriescut cutin indice diceind and soaked soaked in in Malaga, Malaga, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., OZ., scant seant t~ cup) cup) each each of of currants currants and and sultanas, sultanas, or orseedless seedlessraisins, raisins, picked picked over, over, set setto to swell swell in in warrn warm water waterand andthea thensoaked sQakedin in Malaga. Malaga. Add Add an an equal equal amount amount of ofwhipped whipped cream cream flavoured fiavoured with with maraschino. maraschino. Put Put the the mixture mixture in in aa large large charlotte charlotte mould mould with with aa lid, lid,

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742

(l|

PUDDING also be set alight alight with kirsch, brandy brandy or whisky whisky and it il can be (q.v.) or served with served with rum-flavoured rum-tlavoured zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.) or with with hot hOl butter, custard. In custard, ln England it it is is often served scrved with with brandy bUller, which is piepared prepared as follows: foUows: it200 Heat a bowl bowl and put into it 200 g. (7 oz., scant seant cup) butter. it 1I Beat the it into Beat the butter to turn tum it into aa paste, pa.'\te, adding adding to lO il butter to (3 tablespoons, seant! scant + and + dl. dl. (3 tablespoon castor castor sugar and! vigorously to make the mixture frothy. cup) brandy. Whisk WhÎsk vigorously Serve Serve cold. plum pudding The making sweet simple and easy. The makiog of ofplum pudding is simple ea.sy. This sweet (dessert), which is one of dishes, has of the most nourishing nourishing disbes, bas the keeps for aa advantage that it cao can be advance advantage that il he made well weil in ad vance and keeps long excellent sweet sweet course ready long time. lime. Thus one can have an excellent in teserve. reserve. Prrnrpkin pudding. as for DE porIRoN Pumpkin pudding. cArnau GÂTEAU DE POTIRON - Prepare as (see SOUP), pressing the Purde SOUP), pressing Purée of pumpkin pumpkin soup soup (see the pur6e puree (18 OZ., g. (18 vigorously to remove the water. each 500 g. o2.,22 waler. For eaeh generous (scant pint, 2| cups) milk, 100 generous cups) pur6e purée add ~I litre litre (seant pint, 2îcups) g. (4 oz., oz.,*1cup) crrp) sugar sugar and 50 g. (2 cup) butter, butter, and bring Q oz., iI cup) (3 tablespoons) potato potato to the boil. boil. Now Now add 2 tablespoons (3 flour blended with Stir, and and simmer for with aa little little water. water. Stir, for 30 minutes, stirring from time lime to time. time. Remove Remove from the heat and cool a little, then add 3 egg yolks and flavouring flavouring (orangeflower water or! or I teaspoon teaspoon orange or vanilla essence). Beat the 3 egg 0gg whites stifry stiffly and fold them into the mixture. Turn it into into aa buttered buttered mould. 45 minutes in in aa slow it mould. Cook for for 45 oyen. oven. g. (9 oz., Rice pudding. Rrz -- Wasb Wash 250 250 g, cup) oz., l| pudding. pouDrNc POUDlNG AU RIZ l-!-cup) rice, blanch and drain it and put it it in aa saucepan. Pour in I1 (l| pints, boiled with litre (li pints, generous quart) milk previously previously hoiled (5 oz., g. (5 150 g, oz.,3c,rp) few drops t cup) sugar, *t pod pod of vanilla or aa few vanilla essence (or other fiavouring flavouring according to taste) and a vanilla c.rp) butter. pinch of of salt. Add 50 g. (2 oz., *tcup) Cook on the stove. As soon as boiling cover the pot Cook boiling begins, coyer low heat 25 to oven at at low heat for 25 to 30 and continue cooking in in the the oyen minutes. Do not stir. Remove from with care so as Remove from the oven, add add 8 egg yolks, mix mix with grains of not to break stiffly beaten egg ofrice, break the grains nce, and add 7 or 8 stifHy whites. Fill buttered moulds with this this mixture and sprinkle whiles, with fine breadcrumbs. Cook in the oyen inabain-marie. oven in a bail/-marie. (see CREAMS), Serve with with Custard ueam (see CREAMS), zabaglione Serve eus/ard Cream zabaglione (q.v.) or a liqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured fruit sauce. pouDING AU Chooolate rice pudding. AU CHOCOLAT cHocoLAT -Chocolate pudding. POUDING AU RIz RIZ AU Prepare and for Rice mould or or pudding dish dish as as for and cook in Prepare in aa mould (2 oz.) pudding, but g. (2 oz.) semi-sweet but with of 50 50 g. with the the addition of rice pudding. melted chocolate for every 500 g. (18 oz.) ricc melted pudding 1. English rice rice pudding I. rouotNc AU RIz A L'ANGLAISE t'lNctlrsn -Euglish POUDING AU RIZ À in the for Rice mixture as as deseribcd described in Prepare the the mÎxture the recipe recipe for (If; pints, pudding with g. (6 oz., scant cup) rice, litr^ (H with 175 175 g. oz., seant nee, 1I litrr: (2 oz., generous quart) milk flavoured to taste, g. (2 50 g. oz., * cup) laste, 50 small pinch of of sugar, 75 g. (3 tablespoons) butter butter and a smaU Q oz., 6 tablespoons) firm. Bind the mixture salt. Keep Keep the rice rather finn. mixture with 3 whole eggs. bain-marie. Cook in in the oven in in aa pudding dish dish in Cook the oyen in aa bain-marie. pudding with sugar and Sprinkle the pudding andglaze. Sprinkle gla:ze. pudding n. English rlce rice pQdding II. POUDING DE RIZ RIz AU AU pLAT, DIt ÀA rouotNc DE Englisb PLAT, DIT L'ANGLATSE it Prepare the mixture mixture in the usual way. Add to it L'ANGLAISE - Prepare (2o2., whole eggs, eggs. Mix and pour into 50 g. (2 oz., -l|cup) cup) butter butter and J3 whole pudding dîsh. dish. a buttered butlered pudding in the oven in aa bain-marie for 25 25 minutes. Sprinkle the oyen Cook in with sugar and glaze. pouDING AU prdding. PO'lJl)ING Sago pudding. Prepare as described in in slcou -- Prepare Au SAGOU Sago (see below), using sago. the recipe for far Semolina Semolina pudding pudding (see pouDINc SAXON g. (4 oz., iI Clip) Beat 100 g. cup) Saxon pudding. POUDING sAxoN -- Beat Saxon spoon in in aa saucepan. Add Add cream with aa wooden spoon butter to aa cream oz.,lcup) 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) sugar and J3 dl. (t t cups) boiled milk milk $ pint, 1llcups) mix. and oUx. with tbe the wood wooden to the the boil, boil, stirring stirring ail all the the time time with Bring to en

having lined the base and sides with white paper. Close the mould butter to seal it mould and and fill fill in in the the lid Ijd opening opening with with butter to seal hermetically. hermetically. Put the mould in ice ice and to set, and salt salt to set, or or place in a deep-freeze. Take off the on to aa serving dish. dish. Take Turn out the pudding on paper with marrons covering it and surround the marroru paper covering and surround tbe base base with glacds. glacés. pudding Il. II. pottDING Nesselrodepudding POUDING NEssrrnoor NESSELRODENesselrode - Put 40 peeled chestnuts chestnuts cooked in aa 16" 16 c light syrup with a vanilla pod or a few drops of sieve. vanilla essence through through a fine sieve, of vanilla (7 oz., g. (7 from 8 egg yolks, oz., Mix custard sauce made made from yolks, 200 200 g. (l+ pints, scant cup) cup) sugar and and 8 dl. seant dL (I! pints, 1i pints) pints) boiled boiled fresh cnp) cteam. Flavour Flavour with dl. (6 scant ~* cup) cream. with 1 dL (6 tablespoons, seant maraschino and strain through cloth. through a clotho Freeze in an ice cream freezer. As soon as it sets add to it 3 (1+ pint, I! dl. (I! cream and 100 g. (4 oz., OZ., scant t lf cups) whipped cream cleaned, and cup) each of currants, carefully carefully picked pîcked over over and c1eaned, ofcurrants, 30o heavy syrup, syrup. stoned raisins, both previously previously cooked in a 300 It is sa id these these puddings were Monsieur Mouy, said were iovented invented by Monsieur chef to the Comte de Nesselrode. cbef Nesselrode. pudding-- Sweet England and in the Plum Plum pudding Sweet which is served served in Eng/and United States States at Christmas time time and and called called Christmas United at Christmas pudding. pudding to Ingredients lngrediems (for a pudding t 0 serve l5 15 to 20 persons). persons). g. (18 (net weight, 500 skinning, weight, after skinning, 500 g. (18 oz., oz., 3~ 3t cups) cups) suet suet (net (1 I oz., g, (l etc.), 300 g. (11I oz., 5| 5!cups) cups) fresh breadcrumbs, 300 g. (II (5 oz., g. (5 2f cups) cups) sifted cup) stoned stoned Malaga 2i flour, 150 g. sifted flour, oz., 1 cup) raisins, IISO I cup) cup) best currants, I 50 g. (5 oz., oz., 1I cûp) cttp) raisins, 50 g. (5 oz., 1 currants, 150 (4 oz., g. (4 cup) candied sultanas or or seedless raisins, 100 seedless raisins, 100 g. oz., i cup) oz., citron, 100 g. (4 oz., it cup) candied candied orange orange peel, 150 g. (5 o-Z., (9 oz., prunes, 250 g. g. (9 scant cup) and seant cup) stoned prunes, o2.,33 cups) cups) peeled and (5 oz., g. (5 ltcups) grated cooking apples, cups) blanched and apples, 150 g. oz., 1* (9 oz., seant g. (9 chopped almonds, 250 scant 2i 250 g. 2f cups) brown sugar, the grated rind rind and juice and I1 lemon, 4 whole juice of JI orange and pints, li pints) pints) rum, eggs, 88 dl. rum, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 eggs, dL (l~ pints, (cinnamon, nutmeg, ginger), l} tablespoons) mixed mixed spices (cinnamon, nutmeg, gînger), teaspoons teaspoons salt. Method. Remove Remove ail all skin and fibre from the suet and chop itÎt finely. finely. The The chopping chopping is is rendered rendered easier easier if suet is if the the suet sprinkled with a third of of the flour indicated. sprinkled pick over the curranls carefully and pick currants and Stone the raisins carefully sultanas. Rub them in aa cloth tablespoons flour sultanas. cloth with 1I or 2 tablespoons in addition addition to the wash [hem. thern. lhe flour allowed above -- and wasb Stone the prunes, prunes, and chop them with aa knife or put them (This addition plum through the plum mincer. (This addition of of prunes to to the through aa mincer. give the pudding mixture a is optional, but they give the pudding pudding is but they colour.) Peel and grate or chop the apples. richer dark colour.) peel in Cut the citron and Cut the candied citron in minute dice. and orange peel Blanch and chop the almonds. Grate the orange and lemon juice out. Strain tbrougb peel and press the the juice through a muslin bag. all the ingredients, exeept Stir Put ail big basin. Slir except the eggs, into a big until the mixture is is smooth, then add aa quarter of the rum. until Cover the basin with cloth and 1ea Cover with a cloth ve in a cool place for 2 or 3 leave weeks. the mixture every adding aa few few tablcspoons tablespoons of of Stir tbe every day, adding preparation is done at least least 1I this preparation rum each time. In England tbis month before month before Christmas. pudding is to be cooked, add the eggs. Stir On the day the pudding pudding to ensure perfeet perfect blending. If If the mixture is too the pudding thick and diffieult difficult to stir, soften soften by adding aa few tablespoons of milk, milk, or English or -- more more strictly in in conformity with with the the Eng/isb of greased tradition mixture into into smaU small basins greased tradition -- stout. Put the mixture with butter butter and sprinkled with flour. flour. sprinkled witb pudding În in boiling boiling water for at least 6 hours. Cook the pudding pan and 1eave Remove Remove from tbe the pan leave for aa few minutes before pudding on to turning out. Remove tuming Remove the cloth and tum turn out the pudding dish. Sprinkle it with sugar. When rcady ready to serve, heat the aa dish. pudding and set Ît rum, pour over the pudding puddiug can it alight. The pudding

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PUFFER PUFFER spoon, spoon, until it is firm fum and dry like chou chou paslry. pastry. Remove Remove from the heat, add stiffly beaten add 5 egg yolks, yolks, and and fold fold in 55 stiffly beaten egg

PUFFER (German cookery) -- Fritter made with with a a batter

made offlaked of flaked oats, oats, worked with warm water, adding sugar, flavoured with cinnamon. Puffers are a little salt, and eggs, eggs, flavoured

whites. whites.

Fill a buttered mould with the mixture, mixture, and cook cook in a slow oven in a bain-marie. with a zabaglione Serve with bain-marie. Serve zabaglione (q.v.) or Custard cream(see cream (see CREAMS). Scotch Scotch pudding. pudding. pouDrNG POUDING fcosslls ÉCOSSAIS - Put in a basin 500 g. (18 (18 oz., 4lcups) 41cups) freshly made made breadcrumbs and moisten with a little boiled milk. Add Add 375 g. g. (13 oz.) finely chopped beef marrow, 100 g. (a (4 oz., oz.,! f cup) sugar, I1 cup 100 g. (4 oz., ?t cup) currants, 100 g. g. (4 oz., i c.rp) cup) sultanas, sultanas, 100 g. (4 oz., i cup) raisins, 175 175 g. (6 oz., I1 cup) cup) chopped chopped crystallised fruits. Add Add 4 eggs eggs and 4 tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) rum and beat well weil

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cooked in butter. butter.

(Pttisserie) -- Using Flaky pastry (see PUITS D'AMOUR (Pâtisserie) DOUGH) that has been rolled and turned six times, cut out rounds of of about 7l 7! cm. inches) in diameter with aa fluted cm. (3 inches) cutter. Put of these Put half of these on on aa lightly moistened baking sheet, sheet, keeping them Cut out them aa little apart from from each out the each other. other. Cut centres centres of of the other pastry rounds with a smaller smaller cutter, so as to leave rings rings or'crowns'. or 'crowns'. Moisten Moisten the pastry circles on the baking baking tin and carefully carefully set one of of the crowns on each. Press them gently so that the two stick together. Brush the top top of of the crowns with egg and cook cook for about about 15 15 minutes minutes in in aa medium medium oven. Draw Draw the baking baking tin to the front of of the oven without taking taking it right out, powder the pastry pastry cases cases lightly ligbtly with with icing sugar. Put and powder Put them for for a moment moment in in the hottest part part of of the oven oven to to melt melt this this sugar, sugar, glaze. Take them out which will form a out and put on a rack to a glaze. cool. They will look rather rather like like bouchies. bouchées. When they they are are quite cool, fill with with French French pastry pastry cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) with with the the aid aid of a a spoon, spoon, or or forcing-bag; forcing-bag; or alternatively alternatively fill with very very thick gooseberry gooseberry jelly.

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together. Put this mixture in a large well-buttered well-buttered mould, filling to (* inch) from the top. Cook in a bainnot more than I1 cm. (t bainmarie in the oven for I1 hour. Serve with zabaglione zabaglione (q.v.) or Custard Custard crean cream (see (see CREAMS) CREA MS) flavoured with Madeira. Madeira. Semolina pudding. POUDING A À r.q, LA snruourn SEMOULE -- Sprinkle Semolina pudding. pouDING Sprinkle 250 g. (9 (9 oz., oz., lt lj- cups) semolina gradually into into I1 litre litre (1| (lt pints, generous generous quart) quart) boiling boiling milk with 100 100 g. (4 oz., tcup) sugar, a I cup) sugar, pinch of salt, 100 g. (4 oz., ti cup) butter ofsalt, butter and flavouring. Mix well. Cook in a low low oven oven for for 25 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn the mixture mixture out weil. Cook of of the the basin, basin, incorporate 6 6 egg egg yolks, yolks, 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 6 tablespoons) butter and 4 stiffly beaten egg whites. Butter a mould, sprinkle sprinkle it with semolina and fill it with the pudding pudding mixture. Poach in in a a bain-marie in in a a moderate oven. It lt is cooked when the composition composition becomes a little elastic elastic to the touch. Let the pudding pudding rest for a few minutes before turning out. Serve with Custard cream (see CREAMS\, CREAMS), zabaglione zabaglione (qx.) (q.v.) or or liqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured fruit sauce. sauce. English Englisb suet roll pudding. qor.tDrNc NUDING Rout.f ROULÉ A À r'eNcrlc.rse L'ANGLAISE Prepare I1 hour before it is is needed, a a suet pudding pastry pastry made made with 500 g. (18 oz., 4| 4! cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, 300 g. (11 (Il oz.) very (2 oz., oz., fcup) i- cup) sugar, sugar, 2]teaspoons 2! teaspoons salt very dry beefsuet, beef suet, 50 g. (2 and 2 dl. $ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) water. Roll out out into a rectangle rectangle about a bout! cm. (f (i- inch) thick. Spread Spread Icm. on this strip of pastry some sorne jam jam or marmalade marmalade and roll up into a sausage. sausage. Wrap in a buttered, buttered, floured floured cloth and tie it. Cook in boiling water, water, or steam, steam, for for l| I! hours. hours. Drain the pudding, pudding, unwrap it, cut it it into slices about I1 cm. cm. (| (! inch) thick, thick, and arrange arrange them them in a circle. Serve Serve with fruit sauce. sauce. Sweet Sweet potato potato pudding. pudding. pouDrNG POUDING DE DE IATATBs PATATES AU ILAT PLAT -- Peel Peel 750 g. (l| (Ii to l|It lb.) Sweet potatoes, cut into thick slices, and boil boil in water with with a pinch pinch of of salt. salt. As soon soon as they they are are cooked, drain, put put in the oven to dry off off excess moisture, moisture, and and rub through through a small sm ail mesh sieve. sieve. Put this pur6e purée into a bowl. bowl. Add 100 g. (4 oz., ]i cup) sugar sugar and 3 whole whole eggs and blend, stirring with a wooden wood en spoon. spoon. When the the mixture mixture is quite quite smooth, moisten moisten with with! (scant f litre (scant pint, vanilla essence added. pint, 2f 2i- cups) cups) milk milk with a few few drops of ofvanilla added. Mix, Mix, and and pour pour into into a a buttered pudding pudding dish, dish, or or other other ovenproof ovenproof receptacle. receptacle. Put the dish into a pan pan half half filled with hot hot water. Bring Bring to the the boil on the the stove, stove, then cook cook in in a slow oven minutes (if (if the the oven oven is too too hot hot cover cover the pudding pudding oven for 35 minutes to to prevent prevent itit browning browning too too quickly). q uickly). Five of the oven, sprinkle sprinkle with Five minutes minutes before taking out of sugar sugar and and glaze glaze the the top, top, placing placing the the dish dish in the the hottest hottest part part of the the oven. oven. Serve Serve in the the same same dish. dish. This pudding can be be served serve.d hot hot or or cold. It It can be be flavoured flavoured This pudding with rum, orange, orange, lemon, lemon, etc. etc. with kirsch, kirsch, rum, Tapioca POUDING AU AU TApIocA TAPIOCA -- The The same same method method Tapioca pudding. pudding. pouDING of of preparation preparation as for Semolina Semolina pudding, pudding, see see above, above, but but using using tapioca. tapioca. Vermicelli POUDING AU vERMrcEne VERMICELLE -- The same same Vermicelli pudding. pouDING method method of of preparation as as for for Semolina pudding, pudding, using using vermicelli. vermicelli.

PULP. purpn PULPE -- The The soft and fleshy fleshy parts parts of of fruit fruit or or vegetables vegetables PULP. reduced to aa moist moist paste pas te by rubbing rubbing through through a sieve. sieve. reduced PULQUE -- A drink which has some sorne relation to cider. The PULQUE agave from which itit is made made was was cultivated cultivated on a large large scale scale by agave from Aztecs. the ancient Aztecs.

PULTOSTPULTÔST - See CHEESE. CH EESE.

Pumpkin Pumpkin (Sozgez) (Sougez)

PUMPKIN. PUMPKIN. porIRoN, POTIRON, couRGE COURGE - Gourd Gourd with with orange-

coloured coloured flesh which has a distinctive distinctive and sweet flavour. In France France it is used to make soup, soup, jam and a dessert (sweet). (sweet). In U.S.A. U.S.A. almost its its only only use use in cooking cooking is as a filling filling for for pies. In England the name na me is sometimes sometimes used used to describe describe a variety variety of gourds known known as squash squash in U.S.A. U.S.A. Pumpkin Pumpkin au au gratin. gratin. couRGE COURGE AU AU GRATTN-Pare GRATIN - Pare the pumpkin and divide divide into quarters. Blanch for a short short time in boiling boiling salted water; drain drain and dry. salted water; Arrange the the pieces pieces on a gratin gratin dish, dish, buttered and sprinkled sprinkled Arrange cheese. Sprinkle the pieces pieces with more cheese, cheese, with grated cheese. pour pour on some sorne melted melted butter, butter, and brown brown in a warm oven. oven. dish can can be be prepared by by alternating the the slices slices of This dish 744

PUREE PURÉE among English PUNCH PUNCH -- A A drink drink said said to to have have originated originated among English a simple mixture of consisted 1552, about which, sailors, and sail ors, and which, about 1552, consisted of a simple mixture ofcane of cane spirit spirit and and sugar, sugar, heated. heated. Prepare a mixture similar to Iced PUNCH crilcf GLACÉ -- Prepare a mixture similar to Iced punch. punch. PUNcH wine is hot, that that foi for Punch Punch marquise marquise (see (see below). be\ow). While Whi1e the the wine is hot, infuse. add add to to itit 55 tablespoons tablespoons (6 (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) tea tea and and infuse. and I lemon, I orange Add strainer. silk a through Strain Strain through a silk strainer. Add 1 orange and 1 lemon, hot rum. peeled peeled and and cut cut in in slices, slices, and and 22 dl. dl. (t (-j- pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) hot rum. syrupy and Set Set alight, alight, allow allow to to cool, cool, strain, strain, add add water water ifif too too syrupy and freeze freeze like like aa water water ice. ice. Infuse 6 tablespoons AU KIRscH Kirsch PUNCH AU KIRSCH - Infuse 6 tablespoons Kirsch punch. punch. PUNcH

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(If, pints, generous qu1{) cup) cup) tea tea for for 88 minutes minutes in in I1 litre litre (lt pints, generous quart) punch-bowl with 500 boiling boiling water. water. Strain Strain this this infusion infusion into into aa punch-bowl with 500 dissolve g. g. (18 (18 bz., oz., 2f 2i- cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Stir Stir with with aa silver silver spoon spoon to to dissolve the the sugar. sugar.

Set alight and serve in ndd Add ft titre litre (l{ O-j- pints, pints, l} It pints) pints) kirsch' kirsch. Set a\ight and serve in punch punch glasses. g1asses. Punch Punch cake cake -- See See CAKE. CAKE. pints, pan 1I litre litre (lt pints, copper pan in aa copper Punch Punch marquise marquise -- Put Put in white sweet rather (or other any quart; generous sauternes generous quart) Sauternes (or any other rather sweet white rind of of aa the rind and the sugar and generous cup) cup) sugar (9 oz., g. (9 oz., generous wine), 250 g. wine), 250 Heat sugar. Heat the sugar. Dissolve the clove. Dissolve with aa c1ove. in muslin lemon lemon tied tied in mus\in with the to the rises to froth rises white froth fine white where aa fine to the the point the the wine wine to point where dl' Add 2t dl. punch-bowl. Add into aa punch-bowl. mixture into Pour the the mixture surface. Pour surface. in Serve in alight. Serve Set alight. Cognac. Set generous cup) cup) Cognac. (scant 1-I pint, pint, generous (scant glass. in each each glass. lemon in of lemon slice of glasses with with a thin thin punch punch glasses a slice tea in puNcn AU of tea infusion of an infusion Prepare an nnuu -- Prepare lu RHUM Rum-punch. Rum punch. PUNCH in punch bowl into-a punch. Pour for Kirsch way as same the the same way as for Kirsch punch. Pour into a punch bowl (1$ pints, litre (I-jAdd ïI litre of lemon. Add slices oflemon. thin slices some thin and sorne with sugar sugar and with pints, pints rum. alight. rum. Set Set alight. ï pints 11|

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Pumpkins Pumpkins at the the Paris Paris market market (French (French Government Governmenl Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office)

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pumpkin in the dish dish with slices of onion which have have been been pumpkin butter. It could could also also be be prepared with with North North softened in butter. American winter winter squash. American AU RJz couRGE AU Gratin of pumpkin with wiih rice. GRATIN DE COURGE RIZ -cRATIN DE gratin dish dish in aa gratin slices of of pumpkin in butter and put in Simmer slicei Fill grated cheese. Fill sprinkled with grated weil buttered and sprinkled which is well been has been which has rice, which and rice, layers of pumpkin and with alternate layers and cheese and cooked in unskimmed stock. Sprinkle with grated cheese stock. Sprinkle This oven. This pour melted over the dish. Brown in a warm oven. melted butter butter over winter cou Id be made with North American win ter squash. could very Prepare with very Pumpkin jam. DE COURGE couRcE -- Prepare coNrrruRl DE iam. CONFITURE (see JAMS). JAMS). ripe pumpkin jam (see Apricotian way as as Apricot pumpkin in the same same way pumpkin into into the pumpkin Divide the Pumpkio AU JUS JUs -- Divide couRcE AU Pumpkin au jus. ius. COURGE few for aa few pieces. Blanch Blanch for quarters quarteri or lozenge-shaped pieces. into lozenge-shaped or into put in saute in aa sauté and put dry and minutes in boiling Drain, dry water. Drain, salted water. boiling salted for Simmer for stock. Simmer veal stock. pan with down veal boiled down few spoonfuls spoonfuls boiled with aa few 25 lid on. on. with the the lid 25 minutes minutes with PumpkiD pudding -- See PUDDINGSee PUDDING. Pumpkin pudding pumpkin punfs DE Divide the the pumpkin Pumpkin DE COURGE couRGE -- Divide pur6e. PURÉE Pumpkin purée. cook and cook pinch of sugar and of sugar into salt and and aa pinch quirteri, season with salt season with into quarters, pan. slowly the pan. lid on on the the \id in butter with the slowly in butter with Heat sieve. Heat put itit through through aasieve. When very soft, soft, put pumpkin isis very When the the pumpkin Add one-third one-third butter. Add the the heat, little butter. heat, aa little pur6e and add, off offthe the purée and add, concentrated or concentrated of its weight cream or pur6e, and fresh cream potato purée, and fresh weight in in potato ofits North the North of the meat any of with any made with can be be made This dish dish can meat stock. stock. This American ter squashes. squashes. American win winter pumpkin; the pumpkin; Pumpkin Parethe couRGE - - Pare DECOURGE sarlDE DE Pumpkin salad. salad. SALADE the put under under the divide water, put salt water, quarters. Blanch Blanch inin salt divide itit into into quarters. lemon orlemon cold vinegar or oil,vinegar with oil, dry.Season Season with and dry. tap, drain drain and cold tap, juice, juice, and pepper. and pepper. and salt salt and oz., 250g.g.(9(9oz., Pumpkin Bind250 DECOURGE couRcE - - Bind sourulf DE Pumpkin soufflé. souffl6. SOUFFLÉ and sugarand generous with sugar pur6eBavoured flavoured with pumpkin purée generous cup) cup) pumpkin vanilla, whites. eggwhites. beatenegg yolks. Add Add33stiffly stifflybeaten with33egg eggyolks. vanilla, with usual theusual Turn cookininthe andcook dish and souffl6 dish butteredsoufflé Turnout intoaabuttered outinto way (seeSOUFFLÉ). way (see souFFLf). of PumpkiD Purieof BROTHS, Purée AND BROTHS, SOUPSAND SeeSOUPS Pumpkin soup soup - - See pumpkin purnpkinsoup. soup. (coldhors-d'œuvre). Sweet-sour hors'd'auwe). pumpkin àdrl'aUemande I'allemande (cold Sweet-sour pumpkin pumpkin, COURGE Parethe thepumpkin, L'ALLEMINoe- -Pare L'ArcP.n-Doux,ÀAL'ALLEMANDE councn ÀAL'AIGRE-DOUX, put andput cut shapes, and lozengeshapes, intolozenge piecesor ortrim triminto cutititinto intosquare squarepieces the gratedcinnamon, cinnamon, jar,strewing withgrated layerwith eachlayer piecesininaajar, strewingeach thepieces cloves, vinegar withvinegar Coverwith gratednutmeg. nutmeg.Cover andgrated bayand cloves,thyme, thyme,bay which 1-!- cups) cinnamon cups)cinnamon oz.,l| with150 150g.g.(5(5oz., boiledwith hasbeen beenboiled whichhas per t pints, cool. quart)and allowedtotocool. andallowed generousquart) pints,generous perlitre litre(1(lf, Cover days. 12days. jarand 10 to12 forlOto soakfor leavetotosoak andleave Coverthe thejar

sieving and sieving mashing and by mashing obtained by Preparation obtained PUREE -- Preparation PURÉE the from the whether from food, whether of food, kind of Any kind foodstuffs. Any certain foodstuffs. certain pur6e to aa purée reduced to be reduced can be kingdom, can vegetable kingdom, or the the vegetable animal or animal been cooked. cooked. having been after having after pur6es intended purées are intended they are for which which they uses for to the the uses According to According asaa served be to Those consistency. varying of are made are made of varying consistency. Those to be served as consistency; thickish consistency; to aa thickish garnish are kept to are kept or aa garnish vegetable or vegetable thinner' rather thinner. made rather are made soup are make soup to make those meant meant to those sufficently make aasufficently to make watery to too watery being too vegetables, being Some vegetables, Sorne ingredient thickening ingredient complementary thickening pur6e, have have aa complementary thick purée, thick vegetfloury vegetmore Boury another more frequently another most frequently them, most added to to them, added sauce. thicksauce. or aathick cereal or able, aacerea1 able, addition theaddition pur6eshave havethe fish purées and fish kinds and pur6esof ofail all kinds Meat purées Meat pur6e, of thepurée, natureof~he thenature tothe according to whiteaccording orwhite brown or of sauce, sauce. brown of down. boiled down. well boiled and well and making themaking greatlyfacilitates facilitatesthe blendergreatly kitchen blender The use useof ofaakitchen The pur6es. of purées. of

MOLLUSCS' ANDMOLLUSCS. CRUSTACEANS AND FISH.CRUSTACEANS OFFISH, PUREES OF PURÉES polssoNs.CRUSTACÉS punfss DE ETMOLLUSQUESMoLLUSQUEScnusrlcEsET DEPOISSONS, PURÉES p'lNcHols- -Pound puntnD'ANCHOIS mortar Pound inina amortar (cold).puRÉE pur6e(cold). Anchovypurée Ancbovy withthe the cleaned,with wellcleaned, andweil desaltedand filletsdesalted 50g.g.(2(2oz.) oz.)inchovy 50 anchovy fillets Rub butter'Ruboz.,-!-Icup) 50g.g.(2(2oz., and50 yolksof eggsand hard-boiledeggs of44hard-boiled yolks cup) butter. sieve. finesieve. through aafine through pur6ecan canbebe thepurée recipethe individual recipe theindividual According totothe According additions' savouryadditions. othersavoury orother herbsor chopped herbs withchopped completed with completed hardstuffhardhors'd'oeuvre,totostuff varioushors-d'oeuvre, forvarious garnish for Uieasasgarnish Use etc. olives,etc. bottoms,olives, artichokebottoms, boiledeggs, eggs,artichoke boiled puninD'ANCHOIS Add2 2tablestables(hot).PURÉE D'ANcHoIs - - Add pur6e(hot). Anchovypurée Anchovy pint,jcup) pur6etotol!l+dl. dl.(t(*pint, anchovypurée poons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons) anchovy tcup) poons cloth' througha aclotho (seeSAUCE). Strainthrough SAUCE).Strain saure(see ndchame[sauce ihickBéchamel thick addbutter. butter. Heatand andadd Heat pur6ecan also can-also thispurée recipethis individualrecipe theindividual Accordingtotothe According filling parsley.Use Useasasfilling choppedparsley. andchopped eggsand includehard-boiled hard-boiledeggs include etc. rissoles,etc. pastrycases, fritters,rissoles, forpastry cases,fritters, for punfrDEDEHARENGS Anchovy likeAnchovy Preparedlike HARENcs- -Prepared puree.PURÉE Heningpurée. Herring The fillets.The herringfillets. desaltedherring withdesalted purie,replacing anchovieswith replacinganchovies purée, sameuses. uses. same 745 745

PUREE PURÉE Mussel pur6e. punfs

DE MouLEs

prepared in the same way

purée. PURÉE DE MOULES - -Prepared in the same way asMussel Oyster purie andused in the same way as Shrimp purie (sie

asbelow). Oysler purée and used in the same way as Shrimp purée (see below), Oyster puree. punfn o'nulrnn s - H ot.pound in a mofiar 24 Oyslerwhich purée. PURÉE D'HUÎTRES - HOI, Pound in a mortar 24 oysters have been poached in their liquor and well oysters have been poached in their liquor and weil drained.which Rub through a sieve. Add to it 3 dl. cups) drained, Rub through a sieve. Add to it 3 dl. (t$pint, pint, 1;\.lfcups) BC-chamel sauce (see SAUCE), which has had the oyster liquid Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE), which has had the oyster liquid added to it and has then been boiled down, mixed with criam added to it and has then been boiled down, mixed with cream and strained through a cloth. andUse strained through a clotho like Shrimp purde (see below). Shrimp (see below), Use likeCrush Cold. inpurée the mortar 24 oysters, poached and well Cold. Crush the mortar 24 oysters, poached and weil drained, with 4inyolks of hard-boiled eggs and 40 g. (l! o2.,3 drained, with 4 yolks ofhard-boiled eggs and 40 g. (lt oz" 3 tablespoons) butter. Put through a fine strainer. tablespoons) butter. Put through a fine strainer. Salmon pur6e. punfr DE sAuMoN With fresh salmon. ptt Salmonapurée. PURÉE DE SAUMON - Withfresh salmon. Put through sieve 250 g. (9 oz) salmon flesh cooked in butter. through sieve 250 g. (9 oz.) salmon flesh cooked in butter. Heat thisa pur6e and bind it with 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) thick Heat this purée and bind il with 2 dl. Ü pint, seant cup) thick BCchamel sauce (see SAUCE). Season. Add butter. Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE), Season. Add butter, garnishing Used for eggs, pastry cases and shells, bread etc. Used garnishing eggs, pastry cases and shells, bread etc. Withfor smoked salmon. Put through a sieve 250 g. (9 oz.) With smoked Put through a sieve 250 g, (9 oz,) smoked salmon. salmon. Add to this pur6e 4 yolks of hard-boiled eggs smoked salmon, Add to this purée 4 yolks of hard-boiled eggs rulbed through a fine sieve, 50 g. (2 oz., I cup) butter and rilx rubbed well. through a fine sieve, 50 g. (2 oz" icup) butter and mix weIl. Use for canapis, pastry shapes and various hors-d'euvre. Use for canapés, and various hors-d'œuvre, punfe shapes Sea-urchin puree.pastry D'ouRsrNs Clean the sea-urchins, Sea-urcrun purée. PURÉE D'OURSINS -- Clean the sea-urchins, and remove the yellow substance which adheres to the inside and rem ove the yellow subslance which to the inside of the shell. Add this substance to thickadheres BCchamel sauce (see of the shell, Add this substance to Ihick Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) which has been mixed with cream, allowing litre SAUCE) has quart) been mixed with cream, allowing 1I litre (lf; pints, which generous sauce to 36 sea-urchins. Mix well. (l~ pints, generous quart) sauce to 36 sea-urchins, Mix weil. Put through a fine strainer. PutThe through a fine strainer. same uses as for Shrimp purie (seebelow). The samepur6e. uses as for Shrimp purée (see below), punfs pound finelv in a Shrimp DE cRrvETTes Shrimp purée. PURÉE DE CREVETIES - Pound finely in a mortarthe shells of the shrimps (or prawns or other sheilfish), mortar the shells of the shrimps (or prawns or other shellfish), whose flesh is being otherwise used. whose is being otherwise use
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eachset setofofbrains, brains.Mix Mixover overheat, heat,season, season,and andput putthrough through totoeach finesieve. sieve. a afine Useasasgamish garnishfor poachedeggs forpoached eggsororsoft-boiled soft-boiled eggs, eggs,asasa a -Use -tartlets, forcemeat forfowl, fowl,asasfilling fillingfor pastrycases, forpastry cases, tartlets, forcemeat for artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, etc. artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, etc. Brain pur6e, andiningeneral generalail allwhite whitemeat pur6es, may meatpurées, mayhave have _Brain purée, and dicedtrumes, truffles,mushrooms mushroomsororharn hamadded addedtotolhem, ormay maybe be diced them, or enriched by byduxelles (q.v.)orormixed duxelles(q,v.) mixedvegetables vegetables cooked cookedinin ennche
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VEGETABLE VEGETABLEPUREES. PURÉES, pup$ss PURÉESoB DErfcuws LÉGUMESArtichoke cook 66large Articbokepur6e puréeI.I.punfn PURÉED'.lRTrcH.,q,urs D'ARTICHAUTS-- Half Halfcook large artichoke bottoms in a flour-and-water artichoke bottoms in a flour-and-water court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.vly, (q.v,), slice, slice,and andsimmer simmerininbutter. butter.Add Add2+ 21dl.dl.(scant (seant!tpint, pint,geoeious generous cup) cup) BCchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). pass Pass through through aa fine fine

strainer, tablespoon) butter. hcat,and andadd add 15 15E.(ioz.,l g, oz., llablespoon) butter.Use Use st rainer,heat, as a vegetable or ganish for meat or poultry. as a vegetable or ganish for meat or poultry.

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Artichoke Artichoke puree purée II. n. puRfr PURÉE D'ARTrcHAUrs D'ARTICHAUTS -- Add Add to 10 the the artichoke artichokebottoms bottomscooked cookedininbutter butter11large largepotato potatocut eutininthick thick slices. slices, Moisten Moisten with with l+ li dl. dl. $(i pint, pint, 3i cup) cup) stock. stock. Cook Cook

together. together.Finish Finishthe thepur6e puréeasasabove. above. The Thesame sameuses usesasasthe thepreceding precedingpur6e. purée. punfs Green Green asp$tgus asparaguspur&. purée. PURÉEo'AspERcEs D'ASPERGESvERTEs VERTES_--prePrepa_re, with green asparagus, as the next recipe. pare, wilh green asparagus, as the next recipe, White White aspsngus asparagus puree. purée. puREE PUREE D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES BLANcHES llLANCHES _Cook Cookthe theasparagps asparagustips tipsininsalt saltwater, water,drain drainand andrub rubthrough through fine finesieve. sieve.Heat Heatthe thepur6e, purée,remove rem ovefrom fromthe theheat heatand andadda add a little liulefresh freshbutter. butter. This its weight Thispuree puréeisisrather ratherthin thinsosoa aquarter quarterofofits weightofofpotato Patata

PUREE PURÉE should should be he used used if if possible). possible). Bind Bind with with BCchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). Finish Finish like like Artichoke Artichoke purde. purée. Use Use as as garnish for for small or or large cuts of of meat. meat. It It is is also also served by by itself as aa vegetable. vegetable. Cauliflower Caullflower puree. purée. punfs PURÉE DE DE cHou-FLEUR CHOU-FLEUR - Cook Cook the the cauliflower caulîflowcr in in water water and rub rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat Heat the the pur6e. Bind Bind itit with a third third of of its volume volume of of Bichamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Add Add butter. butter. To To make make aa thicker lbickcr consistency consistel1cy aa small small quantity quantity of of potatoes potaloes may may be he added. added. Use Use as as a a garnish for for eggs, small pieces of of meat, meat, and and sweetbreads. sweetbreads. This pur6e purée can also be served as as aa vegetable. "Ç~("'L,1U'''. Celery puree. purée. punfn PURÉE os DE cfrERI CÉLERI - Simmer in in butter in in aa covered pan celery celery stalks or celeriac, celeriac, previously previously blanched blanched in in salted salted water. Finish as described described in in the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke

purCe purée (SaIPOTATOES) (see POT ATOES) may may be be added added to to it. it. Or, Or, depending on on its its final final use, use, one-third of of its ils volume volume in in thick thick Bdchamel sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE) SA UCE) may may be be added. added. The The uses uses are are the the same same as fot for Artichoke Ar'ichoke purie. purée.

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Aubergine pur6e. punfu PURÉE D'AUBERGTNES D'AUBERGINES - Simmer Sim mer 4 peeled, sliced, aubergines :l1lhl"'Q1'"\f'''' in butter. butter. Add Add 2 sliced sliced potatoes. Moisten Moisten with l+ dl. $ pint, 3 cnp) stock. Season Season and cook cook gently. Rub Rub through through a fine sieve and finish finish the tbe pur6e purée as described described in the the recipe for Artichoke purie. purée. The The same sa me uses. uses. for Artichoke Broad bean !Jean puree. pur~. punfn PURÉE pe DE rtves FÈvES rnlictus FRAÎCH.ES * - Cook Cook broad broad beans beans in in salted water, season season with a sprig of savory and rub fub through tbrough a fine sieve. Heat Heat this pur6e purée and bind with butter or cream. cream. Alternatively, cook cook the beans like Peas d à la la frangaise française (see (see PEA) PEA) rub rub through a fine sieve sieve and and bind biod the the pur6e purée with butter or cream. To make a thicker consistency consistency the beans may be augmented quarter of of their volume of potatoes, added aUlflmenled by a quarter

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purie. This pur6e purée can be thickened with with concentrated BCchamel Béchamel sauce SAUCE), or sauce (see (see SAUCE), or with with potato potato cooked with witb the the celery. celery. Use as a garnish with with eggs and with with large large or or small cuts culs of of meat. meaL It Il is also served as aa vegetable. vegelable. Cheshut Cbestnut pu6e. pnrée. punfn PURÉE DE DE MARRoNs MARRONS - This This pur6e purée is is mainly mainly used used as as accompaniment accompaniment to to game game meats meats and and venison. venison. (See (See

during cooking. Use as garnish to eggs, small small cuts cuts of of meat and and poultry. Fresh flageolet bean pur6e. purée. punfo puili DE DE FLAGEoLETS FLAGF:OLP.TS FRAIs FRAIS in the Prepare with fresh flageolet beans cooked in În water water in same way. same same way way as for Broad bean bean. purie, purée, and used in the same French French (sffing) bean pnee. punfs PURÉE oe DE HARIcots HARlCOTS wnts VERTS - trIot. H 01. salted water Rub through a a sieve French beans, cooked in salted waler and drained. Heat this pur6e purée and bind with butter butter or cream. of meat, poultry, small cuts of Use as garnish garnish for eggs, smaU pouhry, or as a vegetable. vegetable. Cold. Rlb Cold. Rub through aa fine fine sieve French beans, cooked in salted water and drained. Bind this pur6e purée with thick mayonnaise. Use as filling for artichoke artichoke bottoms, tomatoes and pastry cases, and, by itself, as garnish garnish for cold dishes. punfn DE HARICOTS HARIcors -- Rub through a Haricot Harlcot bean pur6e. PURÉE been soaked and fine which have have becn dried haricot beans which fine sieve dried pur6e and bind with with then cooked in stock or water. Heat this purée fresh butter. of meal, meat, particularly Use as garnish for large or small cuts of particularly

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cHESTNUTS.) CHESTNUTS.)

Cucumber Cucnmber pure€. purée. punfE puRÉE DE DE coNcoMBRBs CONCOMBRES - As As Artichoke Artichoke purCe, purée, using peeled peeled sliced cucumbers, cooked in in butter butter in În a a covered covered pan. or with salmon steaks cooked in Used as garnish Used as garnish with in butter butter or of meat. court-bouillon (q.v.), small cuts ofmeat. (q.v.), and with with smaH water 50 50 salted Blanch Garlic pur6e. punEe PURÉE D'AII D' AlL -- Bl anch lightly in sal ted water g. (2 15 minutes minutes in and cook Drain, and g. (2 oz.) garlic. garlic. Drain, cook them for 15 in (scant tI pint, pint, 2| dl. butter colour. Add butter without letting them colour. Add 2~ dl. (scant

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(see SAUCE). Rub generous cup) SAUCE). Rub sauce (sec cup) thick generous thick Bichamel Béchamel sauce through tbrough a fine sieve. Heat and add 15 g. (i- oz., J tablespoon) E.(*oz.,l butter. butter. (most of all garnish for of ail cuts of of sautéed saut6ed meat (most Used as garnÎsh for smaU small culS poached cggs and hot hot eggs and noisettes or or mutton or lamb cutlets), poached mutlon or hors-d'euvre. hors·d'œuvre. punfs DE DE TOPINAMBOURS ToPINAMBoLJRS artichoke puree. pURÉE Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem pan. Put Put butter in aa covered pan. Jerusalem artichokes in butter Cook the JerusaJem pur6e and with and bind bind witb Heat the the purée them through througf aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat them butter or cream. butter amount of of to the amount For aa thicker thicker consistency, potato pur6e to For pur6e may may artichoke puree one-half or or one'lhird one-third the volume of the artichoke one-balf pur6es salsify purées root chervil and salsify artichoke, root Japanese artichoke, be added. Japanese are made in the same same way. are meat. garnish for eggs, smalJ and game meaL small cuts ofmeat of meat and Use as garnish purde, pur&. punfs DE As HariCOI Haricot bean purée, I*ntil purée. DE LENTILLES LENTILLEs -- As Lentil water. lentils using lent ils cooked in stock or waler. and game. garnish wilh small cuts of of meaL meat and as garnish with large and sma]J Use as Use punfo DE in puree. P!JR.É1i lettuces braised in Rub letluces DE LAITUES LATTLJES -- Rub Lettuce purée, pur6e, and bind bind sieve. Heat the purée, through a fine fine sieve. stock or water tbrough with butter or cream. with garnish wiLh sweetsmall cuts cuts of of meat, meat, sweetas garnish with eggs eggs or or small Use as Use poultry, etc. etc. breads, poultry, other white beet beet or or otber leaves of of red red or or white Chicory, endives, endives, the the leaves Chîcory, way. into pur6e in in the same same way. similar vegetables may be made into similar purfr DE gourd (U.S. squasb) DE COURGEcouRcE Marrow or or gourd squash) pu6e. PURÉE (see as Pumpkin Pumpkin purie Prepared in the same way as the sa Prepared me way purée (sec PUMPKTN). PUMPKI:f\.'). pupSp DE (zucchini) purée. pur6e. PURÉE DE COURGETTES couRcETTEs Baby manow (zucchini) Ba by marraw uses. purie.T}.te same uses. Prepare in way as as Aubergine Aubergine purée. in the sa same Prepare me way The same punfB DE Trim, wash wash prn6e. PURÉE DE CHAMPIGNONS Mushroom purée. cHAMpIGNoNs - Trim, Mushroom (18 oz.) and white cultivated cultivated mushrooms and and dry firm, white dry 500 500 g. (18 oz.) firm, and (peel them possible (peel if them if rapidly as as possible rub them them through aa sieve sieve as as rapidly rub they are are not not white enough). pint, puree to sauce scant cup) cup') Béchamel Bichamel sauce Add tbis this purée to 22 dl. (+ pin t, seant (see SAUCE) pan with with aa few few in aa pan has been tbickened thickened in SAUCE) which which has (see few moments moments over over aa Boil down down for for aa few tablespoons of cream. Boil of cream. tablespoons

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mutton.

punfr DE HARICOTS r.A puree. PUR.É.E nl,lNcs ÀA LA HARrcors BLANCS Breton whlte white beao bean pmée. Bretoll punfp BRETONNE prrg PURÉE beans cooked in aa BREToNNE-- Haricot beans BREToNNB, DITE BRETONNEl, (see sauce (sec with Bretonne Bretonne sauce bound with meat stock, stock, drained, drained, bound meat SAUCE) and rubbed through a sieve. SAUCE) garnish for roast, baked or braised meat, especially Use as garnish mutton. It is also served as as a vegetable. V .... ~" .... L'''UI'"'. punfs DE on HARICOTS, HARIcors, pur6e or puree soissonnsise. puRÉE White bean purée WhIte punfg SOlSSONNAlSE ptre ÀA LA beans LA SOISSONNAISP., soIssoNNAIsB -- Haricot beans solssoNNrusn, puRÉE DITE sieve rubbedthrough cookedin stock and and rubbed wateror cooked in water or in aameat meal stock through a sieve (4 g. (4 100 g. the heat, heat, adding adding 100 when still still hot. hot. Stir Stir the the pur6e over the when pur6e. Dilutc g. (18 oz., Dilute oz., 2|cups) purée. 500 g. butterforeach 500 oz., ~|cup) cu p) butter the or the milk or if necessary with tablespoons of boiling milk with aa few few tablespoons if water in which the beaos cooked. beans were cooked. water purde. bean puree. same way way as as Breton white white beau Use in the same ps BETTERA punfn DE I/ot. Ru Rub Beetroot pur6e. PURÉE' sETTERAvEs Beetroot VTl.S -- Hot. b through aa (as for for salad salad oven (as fine sieve in the the oven sieve Zlarge beetroots beetroots cooked cooked in fine to puree in Add to in aa sauté saut6 pan. Add peeled. Heat this purée beetroots) and peeled. (scant I pint, generous cup) pint, generous Demi-glace cup) concentrated Demi-glace ilit 2+ dl. (scaoq (se,e SAUCE). boil, stirring stirring bring ta to the the boil, Season, and and bring SAUCE). Season, sauce (sec sauce tablespoons) with aa wooden oz., 22 tablespoons) wooden spoon. spoon. Add Add 25 25 g.g. (1 oz., with butter. butter. pur6e may with concentrated concentrated also be be thickened thickened witl'! The purée may also The pieces garnish to small pieces (see SAUCE). to small Use as as garnish BCchamel sauce sazce (see SAUCE). Use Béchamel meat. of game meaL ofgame pulp, 22 dL scant cup) cup) dl. ($pint, Cold. Add Addtothe cold beetrOOl beetroot pulp, Cold. to the cold pint, scant very thick thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise. pastry cases and cases and boat-shaped pastry as filling filling for for canapés, canapCs, boat-shaped Use as hors-d'œu)lre hor s-d' euvre tartlets. tartlets. punfn DE in carrots in puree. PURÉE Simmer DE CAROTTES Cerrot purée. cARorrEs - Sim Carrot mer carrots (new carrots carrots very tender tender (new pan until in aa covered until they they are are very butter in covered pan butter

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PUREE-PRESSER PURÉE-PRESSER good heat, season and strain through a fine sieve. Heat the good heat, season and strain through a fine sieve. Heat the pur6e once more, remove from the heat and blend in 50 g. (2 purée once more, rem ove from the heal and blend in 50 g. (2 oz., f, cup) butter. oz., i cup) butter. Use as garnish for as garnish for meal, meat, chicken chicken and and fish, fish, and and to to stuff stuff Use artichoke bottoms, eggs, eggs, lillets fillets of of fish, fish, etc. etc.IlIt isisalso also used as used as artichoke bottoms, fiIling for for pastry pastry shells shells and and canapés canapis served served as as aa hOI hot horshorsfilling d'auvre or or smaH small en/rée. entrie. d'œuvre punfE D'orcNoNs, DrrE souBrsn This Onion soubise soubise 1.I. PURÉE ornon D'OIGNONS, DITE SOUBISE -- This pur6e, which is used as a garnish for meat, can be prepared in purée, which is used as a garnish for meal, can be prepared in two ways: two ways: Blanch 1I kg. (2f lb.) kg. (2t lb.) chopped chopped onions onions thoroughly thoroughly in in salted salted Blanch lvater. Five Five minutes minutes before before draining draining Ihem g. (9 (9 oz., them add add250 250 g. oz., water. generous cup) rice. Drain these ingredients, then hold under a generous cup) rice. Drain these ingredients, then hold under a cold waler water lap tap to to cool. cool. Dry, Dry, and and season season with with salt, salt, white white cold pepper, grated nutmeg and a pinch of sugar. pepper, graled nulmeg and a pinch of sugar. Line aa deep deep casserole with thin rashers of fat bacon. Line casserole with thin rashers of fat bacon. Add the on onions and rice. rice. Moisten Moisten with with white white stock stock in in Add the ions and sufficient quantity to coyer cover the the mixture. mixture. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil on on sufficient quanlily 10 the stove, then cook covered in the oven. the stove, then cook covered in the oyen. Take the the onions onions and and rice rice out out of of the the casserole casserole without without Take touching the the bacon bacon rashers. rashers. Rub Rub Ihrough through aa sieve, pressing sieve, pressing louching with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. with Reheat the pur6e. Add the purée. g. (5 (5 oz., Add 150 150 g. oz.,l0 tablespoons) butter butter Reheat 10 tablespoons) (6 tablespoons, and 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant i3 cup) cup) fresh fresh double doubl€ cream. cream. and Blend. Blend. Blanch 1I kg. (2| lb.) Or: Blanch kg. (2;\: lb.) chopped chopped onions onions thoroughly thoroughly and and Or: cook gently in butter. Add I litre (lf pints, generous quart) cook gently in butter. Add 1 litre (1% pints, generous quart) thrck Béchamel BCchamel sauce (see SAUCE). Season with salt, white thick sauce (sec SAUCE). Season wilh salt, white grated nutmeg. and grated nutmeg. Sim gently, stirring Simmer stirring !€pper and pepper mer gently, frequently. Rub through aa sieve, pressing with sieve, pressing with aa wooden wooden frequently. Rub through spoon. Finish cooking the pur6e as above. spoon. Finish cooking the purée as above. punfu souBrsE - Blanch 500 g. (18 oz.) Onion soubise mubise II. [I. PURÉE Onion SOUBISE - Blancb 500 g. (18 oz.) chopped onions, drain, and cook in the oven with 50 g. (2 oz., chopped onions, drain, and cook in the oYen with 50 g. (2 oz., cup) pinch butter, a pinch of of salt, pepper and of white I cup) butter, a pinch of salt, aa pinch and aa white pepper pinch offine sugar. pinch offine sugar. When the onions are cooked, getting brown, add 4 4 When the on ions are cooked, without without getting brown, add dl. (f; pint, scant 2 cups) thick Bichamel sarc"\see SAUCE). dl. Gpint, seant 2 cups) thick Béchamel sauce (see SA UCE). Blend and finish cooking in the oven, with a lid on the pan, for Blend and finish cooking in the oyen, with a lid on the pan, for 30 minutes. 30 minutes. Rub Rub through through aa sieve, sieve, and and add add 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, butter, whitening whitening it, it, ifif necessary, necessary, with with several several tablespoons tablespoons of of cream. cream. Prepared in Prepared in this this way, way, the the soubise soubise is is thinner thinner in in consistency consistency and is mainly served as a sauce for grilled meat. and is mainly served as a sauce for grilled meat. puRfr pors prepared Chick-pea Cruck-pea pmee. purée. PURÉE DE DE POIS cHrcHEs CHICHES -- Prepared like like Split Split pea pea purCe purée (see (sec below). below). Fresh pea purec. punfr DE Fors FRAis - Rub through a fine Fresil pea purée. PURÉE DE POIS FRAïs Rub through a fine sieve some fresh garden peas cooked in water or d lafrangaise sieve sorne fresh garden peas cooked in water or à lafrançaise (see PEA). Heat this pur6e and add butter. (sec PEA). Heat this purée and add butter. Use Use as as garnish garnish for for eggs, eggs, small small cuts cuts of of meat, meat, sweetbreads sweetbreads and poultry. It is also served as a vegetable and as a soup. and poultry. Il is also served as a vegetablc and as a soup. punfr pors pea pur6e. Split Split pea purée. PURÉE DE DE POts cassfs CASSÉS -- Like Like Haricot Haricot bean bean purde, using split peas cooked in stock or water. purée, using split peas cooked in stock or waler. Use as garnish for large and small cuts of meat, braised or Use as garnish for large and small cuts of meat, braised or

goose, ham roast goose, ham and and venison. venison. roast punfr DE peel the prMENTs DOUX pepper purée. Sweetpepper pur6e. PURÉE DE PIMENTS Doux -- Peel the Sweet pepp€rs, rem remove seeds, cook cook inin butter, pound them butter, and and pound them fineJy finely peppers, ove seeds, mortar with with ha half their weigbt (see weightofthick of thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce(see ininaamortar If their SAUCE). Rub Rub through through aasieve, sieve, reheat reheat and and add add butter. butter. SAUCE). garnish for Use as as aagarnish grills, and for grills, poached or and for for poached orsoft-boiled soft-boiled Use eggs. eggs. punfo DE Potato purée. pur&. PURÉE DE POMMES FoMMEs DE DE TERRE TERRE See Potllto See POTATOES. POTATOES. punfs DE Punpkin purée. pur&. PURÉE DECOURGE couRGE -- See See PUMPKIN. PUMPKIN. Pumpkln punfs D'ÉPINARDS Spinach purée. pur6e. PURÉE o'fprNAnps -- Cook Cook the the spinach spinach in in Spmach salted water. water. Drain, Drain, cool cool itit in in cold cold water, water, drain drain itit again, again, and and salted squeeze as as dry possible. Rub dry as as possible. Rub through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Heat, Heat, squeeze and bind bind itit with with butter butter and and cream. cream. and Use garnish witb as gamish with meat, poached or meat, and and poached soft-boiled eggs. or soft-boiled eggs. U se as May also also be be used as aa vegetable. used as vegetable. May prnfn D'ESTRAGON Tarragon purée. purfo. PURÉE D'EsrRAcoN -- HOI. Hot. Blanch Blanch rapidly rapidly TarragoD in salted (9 oz.) salted water g. (9 water 250 250 g. oz.) fresh fresh tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Drain, Drain, cool cool in in cold cold water, water, drain drain again, again, squeeze squeeze as as dry dry as as possible and and rub rub in through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. through (+ pin!. Add to to 22 dl. pint, seant dl. (t scant cup) cup) thick (see thick Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see Add SAUCE). Heat Heat weil, well, add add butter. butter, season, season, and and mix weil. well. SAUCE). Use as as filling filling for for mushrooms, mushrooms, artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms and and Use pastry shells, shells, or garnish for or as as garnish for large large or or small small cuts cuts of of meat, pastry chicken, eggs or or fish. chic ken, eggs Cold. Bind Bind the the tarragon tarragon purée, pur6e, prepared prepared as above, above, with Cold. very thick thick mayonnaise mayonnaise instead (See also instead of of sauce. sauc€. (See very TARRAGON.) TARRAGON.) Use as as an an ingredient of cold hors-d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Use Watercress, chervil, chervil, parsley or other pur6es, hot other herb purées, Watercress, hot or cold, are prepared in the same way. are prepared cold, punfr DE TRUFFES Trufle pmée. puree. PURÉE TRUFFES - Rub through Truffle through a fine sieve g. (9 (9 oz.) fresh 250 g. fresh trufles, (+ dl. G250 truffies, raw or cooked. Mix with 2 dl. pint, seant scant cup) (see SAUCE) cup) BCchamel SAUCE) which has been pint, Béchamel sauce (see cooked with for aa few few moments. Strain cooked with fresh cream. cream. Boil Boil for through sieve. through aa fine fine sieve. Use as filling Use as filling for for pastry pastry cases, cases, little shells of of bread, potato crust, accompany elaborate crus t, etc., etc., which which accompany elaborate dishes; dishes; and as stuffng stuffing for artichoke bottomso weil as a liaison liaison for artichoke bottoms, mushrooms, etc., etc .• as well for for various various sauces. sauces.

*

PURfE-PRESSER. which PURÉE-PRESSER. plssr-punfsPASSE-PURÉE- Kitchen Kitchen utensil, utensil, of ofwhich there there are are many many types, used used for pressing pressing through pur6es purées of meat, meat, fish, fish, vegetables vegetables or or fruit. fruit. PURSLANE PURSLANE OR PUSSLEY. PUSSLEY. pouRprER POURPIER - A A weed weed of both both hemispheres. hemispheres. There There are are two two principal principal varieties varieties of of purslane: purslane: the the Common Common or or Winter Win/er Purslane, Purslane, cultivated for for its ilS large large leaves, Rosernoss. leaves. and and the the Garden Garden Purslane Purslane ot or Rosemoss. Ordinarily Ordinarily the the leaves leaves of of common common purslane purslane are are eaten eaten in in salad, salad, but but they they may may also also be be cooked cooked and and served served with with butter butter or or cream like French cream or or in in their their own own juices, juices,like French beans. beans. Finally, Finally, purslane purslane leaves leaves may may be be preserved prcserved in in vinegar vinegar and and used used as as aa condiment. condimen t.

748

preparation of bird. ItIt There There are recipes for for the the preparation of this this bird. are many recipes get high. recipes high. In In addition addition to to the the recipes should never be allowed allowed to to get prepared by given below, quail can following any any of of by following given can also also be be prepared below, quail (q.v.). partridge (q.v.). given for the for partridge the recipes recipes given (rrmcrrs) (sttred). CAILLES Quails BN CAISSES cAILLES EN cAIssEs (FARCIES)in cases cases (stuJfed). Quails in gratin game game quails. Stuff Bone with aa little litfle À2 gratin Stuff each each with Bone the the quails. ,forcemeat (see quails' livers (see FORCEMEATS) -jorcemeat livers FORCEMEATS) adding adding to to itit the the quails' and Reshape the birds to to trufres. Reshape the birds mixing in in sorne some chopped chopped truffies. and mixing piece of proper fonn give them give each in in aa piece of form and and wrap wrap each them their their proper pan, buttered greaseproof greaseproof paper. paper. Put into aa buttered buttered pan, Put them them into placing placing them with aa Iittle little Sprinkle with tightly against against each each other. other. Sprinkle them tightly melted for 15 l5 to to lid and cook in in the the oyen oven for melted butter, butter. coyer cover with with aa lid and cook pan and, 18 and, after after taking taking 18 minutes. birds from from the the pan minutes. Remove Remove the the birds paper case off papers, put put each been case which which has has been off the each into into aa paper the papers, juices pan juices brushed Dilute the the pan in the the oyen. oven. Dilute with oil oil and and dried dried in brushed with game stock with stock with Madeira, with aa little little concentrated concentrated game Madeira, moisten moisten with and quail. Put for 55 pour over back in in the the oyen oven for Put the the cases cases back and pour the quai!. over the minutes minutes before before serving. serving. Quails EN CAISSES cAIssEs ÀA I'italienne. CAILLES cAILLEs EN in cases cases ài l'italienne. Quails in L'ITALIENNE for quails as in the the recipe recipe for as described described in L'ITALIENNB -- Prepare Prepare the the quails (see Quails (stuffed). Put Put 1I tablespoon tablespoon Italian ltalian sauce sauce (see in cases cases (stuffed). Quails in SAUCE) Finish putting in birds. Finish in the the birds. case before before putting SAUCE) into into each each case cooking cases. in cases. recipe for for Quails cooking as as described in the the recipe described in Quails in Quails LA EN CAISSES cAIssEs ÀA LA cAILLBS EN in cases la LambaUe. Lamballe. CAILLES cases ài la Quails in LAMBALLE quails as Before above. Before as described described above. Prepare the the quails LAMBALLE -- Prepare julienne (q.v.) (q.v.) of putting of putting in with aa julienne the cases cases with line the in the the birds, birds, line pan mushrooms Dilute the the pan blended with with cream. cream. Dilute mushrooms and and truffies trufles blended juices with juices pour this the port, add this sauce sauce over over the and pour with port, add fresh fresh cream cream and quails. quails. Quails LA EN CAISSES cArssEs ÀA LA mirepoix. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases ài la la mirepoix. Quails in MIREPOIX quails as Add sorne some above. Add as described described above. Prepare the the quails MIREpoIx -- Prepare juices and Vegetable pan juices (see MIREPOIX) and the pan MIREPOIX) to to the mirepoix (see Vegetable mirepoix pour pour over over the the birds. birds. Quails MoNT-BRY - EN CAISSES cAlssEst MONT-BRY Mont-Bry. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases Mont-Bry. Quails in Prepare gratin quails as replacing àd gratin described above, above, rep1acing Prepare the as described the quails forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) forcemeat by by Chicken Chicken jorcemeat forcemeat (see juices with mixed pan juices with Dilute the the pan with chopped mixed with truffies. Dilute chopped truffies. champagne quails into intocases cases Place the the quails veal stock. stock. Place champagne and and brown brown veal and combs and kidneys. (q.v.) ofcocks' and kidneys. garnish with with aa ragoût ragofit (q.v.) of cocks'combs and garnish Quails LA ENCAISSES cArssEs ÀALA la Périgueux. P6rlgueux. CAILLES cAILLES EN in cases cases ài la Quails in pfnlcugux -- Prepare PÉRIGUEUX quails as Arrange above. Arrange asdescribed described above. Prepare the the quails them pour over over put aathick each and and pour oneach in cases, thick slice slice oftruffle of trufre on them in cases, put juicesdiluted Périgueux pan juices diluted (see SAUCE), the pan adding the Pirigueux sauce sauce (see SAUCE), adding with with Madeira. Madeira. Quails in cases LA EN CAISSES cAI$sEs ÀALA cAILLEs EN cascsài la la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. CAILLES Quailsin STRASBOURGEOISE quailsand with aa andstuff stuff them them with srRAsBor,rRcEorsn -- Bone Bone the the quails truffies, seasoned salpicon (q.v.) of and grasand salpicon (q.v.) seasoned with withsalt saltand andtruffies, ofjoie foie gras aa pinch pinch of brandy. with aafew few drops drops of of brandy. of spices spices and and sprinkled sprinkled with

QUAIL. This word word cornes from the the old old Flemish comes from cAILLE -- This QUNL. CAILLE word quakele. Quail passage, aa native native of hot is aa bird bird of passage, of hot word quakele. Quail is countries. It cornes hot spring and returns to hot comes to Europe in the spring climates climates at the beginning ofwinter. of winter. The corn mon quail (Coturnix (Coturnix vulgaris) species vulgaris) is is the the only only species common which cornes varieties of of many exotic varieties comes to Europe but there are many quail in Asia and the lndian Indian Archipelago. The quail belongs American partridge The American American quail belongs to to the the American family. It is quail and its its flesh flesh family. is aa little bigger than the common quail has in the in flavour. It It can can be be found found in the markets in has aa delicate delicate flavour. France prepared in any suitable any manner suitable France in winter, and can be prepared for ordinary quail. ordinary quai!. In September quails begin to begin to to migrate migrate to and October the the quails September and Africa and spring they cross the Mediterranean, and India. In the spring covering go to to and go without stopping, stopping, and whole distance distance without covering the the whole France. put into for into cages cages for and put France. There There they are trapped alive and systematic systematic fattening. 'belongs to Charles quail'belongs to the the highest highest says that that the the quail Charles Jobey Jobey says and this is aristocracy of the wild in so so far far as as wild is true true in world'and the bird world' quai! quail in the case of of quail quail is concerned, less in the case but applies applies much much less concerned, but bred for food.

Common quail Common quail

American quail: American quail: a. a. Male Male b. b. Female Female

749 749

QUAIL Wrap thebirds birds ininbuttered papers and buttered papers cookasasdescribed andcook described inin Wrap the the recipe for Quails in cases. Arrange in paper cases, pur a the recipe for Quai/s in cases. Arrange in paper cases, put a pirigu"uxiauce thick sliceof of truffie truffieon oneach eachand andcoyer coverwith with Périgueux sauce thick slice (seeSAUCE). (see SA UCE). cases àI lalavigneronne. vigneronne. CAILLES cArLLEsEN Quails inincases ENCAISSES cArssEsÀALA LA Quails VIGNERoNNE * Bone the quails, leaving the legs and wings VIGNERONNE - Bone the quails, leaving the legs and wings intact. Stuff with with/oie gras and and diced dicedtruffies truffies sprinkled sprinkled with wiih foie gras intact. Stuff brandy and well seasoned. Reshape the quails, wrap each in a brandy and weil seasoned. Reshape the quails, wrap each in a piece of muslin and tie with string. piece of muslin and tie with string. jelly stock made out of a veal knuckle and the Cook inin jelly Cook stock made out of a veal knuckle and the quails' bones and trimmings and add some white Bordeaux quails' bones and trimmings and add sorne white Bordeaux wine. Drain quails and the quails and cool cool thoroughly thoroughly under underaa light light wine. Drain the press. Unwrap, coat with Brown chaud-froid sauce (see press. Unwrap, coat with Brown chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE) prepared prepared with part of with aa part of the the liquor liquor inin which which the the SAUCE) quails were cooked. Glaze with jelly made from the rest of the quails were cooked. Glaze withjelly made from the rest of the liquor and and fiavoured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. liquor Arrange the quails, each the quails, each in in aa frilly paper case, frilly paper case, or in little or in little Arrange individual rushes. dishes. Put Put 1I large large round round slice slice of of truffie truffie on on each each individual quail and 3 large grapes on top. quail and 3 large grapes on top.

forcemeatput puta apiece pieceof uncookedfoie ofuncooked grasstudded studdedwith witha a forcemeat foiegras pieceof oftruffie, trufle,seasoned seasonedwith withsalt saltand spicesand andspices andsprinkled sprinkled piece withbrandy. brandy.Reshape Reshape the quails,wrap thequails, wrapeach pieceofof eachinina apiece with muslinand andtie tieboth bothends endswith withstring, string,ininsuch sucha amanner mannerasastoto muslin makelittle littleballottines. ballottines. make Putthese theseinto intoaasauté panon sautepan onaafoundation foundationofoffresh freshbacon Put bacon (porkrind), rinds(pork rind),carrots carrotsand andonions onions- -ail allchopped choppedand rinds andfried fried butter. Coyer Cover the thebirds birdswith withtheir theirbones bonesand andtrimmings, trimmings, ininbutter. previously tossed tossedininbutter. butter.Moisten Moisten with (scantt {pint, with2l dl.(scant pint, 2t d!. previously generous cup) cup)Madeira. Madeira.Boil Boildown down almost almostcompletely. completely. Add generous Add vealstock stocksimmered simmered with withaafew fewtablespoons tablespo onsGamejelly Game jellystock veal stock (seeJELL JELLY). Bringtotothe boil,coyer theboil, coverthe pan,and thesauté saut6 pan, (see Y). Bring cook andcook hot oyen ovenfor for 20 20minutes. minutes. ininaahot Drain the quailsand thequails putthem and put them into intoa aflat terrine.Strain Drain fiat terrine. Strainthe the liquor ininwhich which they they were werecooked cookedand pourover and pour over them. them.Leave liquor Leave to cool cool in inthis this liquor. liquor.Drain quails again, Drain the thequails again, unwrap, unwrap, and to anddry dry thoroughly. Coat quail with Coat each eachquail with aaBrown Brownchaud-froid chaud-froidsauce thoroughly. sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made madefrom from the the liquor liquor left left over over from from cooking (see cooking quails and the quails and fiavoured flavoured with with Madeira Madeiraor some other or sorne the other wine. wine. Decorate the quails with the quails pieces of with pieces oftruffies andhard-boiled hard-boiled egg Decorate t ruffi es and egg white.Glaze Glaze the jelly and the decorations decorations with with half-set half-set jelly white. and chill. chill. Arrange them them in in aacrown crown in in aadeep deep dish dish and andcoyer Arrange completely cover completely with half-setjelly. half-set jelly. Keep Keep on on ice ice until until ready ready to with to serve. serve. er chaud-froid chaud-froid prepared prepared as as above above can Quails bearranged arranged in can be Quails en in different ways. ways. Serve Serve on on the the dish, dish, surrounding different surrounding them them with with choppedjelly; put them or put glass dish them into into aa glass chopped jelly; or dish and and coyer cover them them jelly. with aa clear clear jelly. with quails can The quails can also also be be served served individually, individually, each The each in in aa frilly frilly paper case jelly, or case on on aa foundation foundation of chopped jelly, of chopped paper porcelain, or in in porcelain, glass or silver dishes. or silver dishes. glass quails. CAILLES Confit of of quails. cArLLEs CONFITES Confit coNFrrEs -- Decapitate Decapitate 44 plump plurnp quails, putting putting the the heads heads aside aside for for use quails, use later. later. Season Season the the birds birds with salt salt and ground pepper. pepper. Flame and freshly freshly ground with Flame in in aa frying pan frying pan with Armagnac or or Cognac. Cognac. (7 oz.) g. (7 goose fat oz.) goose fat in in aa pan, adding Melt 200 g. adding aa few few drops drops of of water. Wh When the fat fat is is almost almost melted, water. en the melted, add quails. Bring add the the quails. Bring then simmer simmer for for 35 slowly to the boil, then 35 to 40 40 minutes. minutes. place Remove the pan from the the pan the heat heat and Remove and cool quails. Place cool the the quails. in the the refrigerator refrigerator in in order order to them in to set set the the film film of of fat fat that that covers them. Prepare 4 rectangular canapés (q.v.). Spread canapis (q.v.). Prepare Spread them them with aa thin layer layer offreshfoie gras, about of freshfoie gras, (l oz.). Place 1I quail about25 g. (1 25 g. quail in in centre of ofeach canapi and and fix the heads the centre each canapé heads in in position. The eyes are made of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg white and aa speck oftruffie. of trufle. Decorate quail with each quail with small pieces of Decorate each small pieces of truffie trufre and and surround surround with 6 large skinned, de-seeded de-seeded grapes. Glaze Glaze the birds with savoury savoury jelly. jelly. The quails should be served on a large large dish and decorated decorated to to taste (usually (usually with a a piping of chopped savoury jelly). (Recipe the restaurant restaurant Lasserre.) Lasserre.) (Recipe used used in the Quails en chemise. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN crrEMrse CHEMISE - Stuff the quails Quails with rià gratin game forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Truss game forcemeat Truss them them as as for for an an entrie entrée and and enclose each each one in a piece piece of of small intestine. up at both both ends and and wrap in muslin, muslin, which which intestine. Tie up should should also also be be tied at both both ends. Poach Poach from 15 15 to 18 18 minutes in in boiling boiling clear clear stock. stock. Drain, Drain, remove remove the the muslin muslin and and serve serve the quails quails inatimbale in a timbale (q.v.), (q.v.), wrapped wrapped in in their their chemises,sprinkled chemises, sprinkled with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of the liquor in which they were cooked. cooked. Serve Serve with with Rouennaise Rouennaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SA UCE) to which which concentrated concentrated game game stock, stock, boiled boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of ofa a fumet (q.v.), (q.v.), has has been been added. added. fumet Quails with with cherries. cherries. cArLLEs CAILLES AUx AUX crnlsss CERISES -- Cook Cook the the quails, q uails, Quails trussed an entrCe, entrée, in in butter butter in in aa casserole casserole or or earthenearthentrussed as as for for an 'ware ware cocofte. cocotte. When When three-quarters three-quarters done done add add 12 12 stoned stoned cherries cherries for for each each quail. quai!. Stonedcooked cooked or or fresh fresh cherries cherries can can be be used. used. Put Put them them in in an an Stoned ovenproof ovenproof dish dish and and cook cook in in aa low low oven, oyen, without without any any liquid liquid except thejuice juice rendered rendered by by the the fruit. fruit. except the

in cases cases àri la la vigneronne vigneronne Quails in Quails

Casserole (or quails of quails quails en en cocotte). cocotte). CAILLES cArLLEs EN EN Casserole of qua ils (or into quail aa piece each quail ofbutter, into each piece of butter, the salt and pepper. the size size of of a a cobnut, cobnut, kneaded kneaded with with aa littte little salt pepper. Truss Truss the the birds. birds. Put Put them them into into an an earthenware earthenware casserole or cocotte Season and cook in cocotte in in which which butter butter has has been been heated. heated. Season the the oven oyen for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add aa dash dash of of brandy brandy and and baste baste with a few tablespoons of game stock. a few tablespoons of game stock. The The quails quai1s may may be be wrapped wrapped in in vine vine leaves leaves or or in in thin thin rashers of of bacon, bacon, served served with with crottons croûtons fried fried in in butter, butter, spread with d à gratin FORCEMEATS), ifif desired. desired. gratin gameforcemeat game forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS), Casserole of quails quails Aà Ia la bonne bonne femme. femme. cArLLFs CAILLES EN EN cA$sERoLE CASSEROLE Casserole of A À ra LA noxxs BONNE FEMME FEMME -- Cook Cook the the quails quails in in aa casserole casserole with with a garnish ofdiced potatoes tossed in butter and blanched diced garnish of ruced potatoes tossed in butter and blanched diced bacon. bacon. Finish Finish cooking cooking as as described described in in the the recipe recipe fo forr Casserole Casserole of ofquails. quai/s. Casserole quails of with grapes. grapes. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN cAssERoLE CASSEROLE Ar./x AUX Casserole of quails with RArsrNs RAISINS -- Clean Clean out out and and singe singe 66 quails. quails. pluck Pluck them, them, truss, truss, and and wrap wrap each each in in aa vine vineleaf leafand and thin thin rasher rasher of offat fat bacon. bacon. put Put them them into into aa saut6 sauté pan pan in in which which I1 good good tablespoon tablespoon of of butter butter has has been been heated, heated, and and cook cook in in aa hot hot oven oyen for for 88 minutes. minutes. Take Take the the quails. quails out out of of the the pan, pan, remove remove trussing trussing strings strings and and arrange arrange them them in in an an ovenproof ovenproof dish. dish. Add Add 60 60 large large fr-sh fresh peeled peeled aid and qeedgd seeded grapes. grapes. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with the the fat fat given given out out by by the the birds. birds. Fut oven, uncovered, Putthe thedish dish inin the theoven, uncovered, for for 55minutej. minutes. At Atthe themoment moment of ofserving, serving, sprinkle sprinklethe the birds birds with with their their pan pan juices diluted with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy and juices diluted with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy and 44 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Serve Serve at at once. once. Chaud-froid of quqils. quails. cArLLEs CAILLES EN EN cHAUD-FRoID, CHAUD-FROID, cHAUDCHAUDChaud-froid of FRorD FROIDDE DEcAtrres CAILLES-- Bone Bonel0 10quails quailsand andstuffwith stuffwithdàgratin gratingame game forcemeat FORCEMEATS). In In the the middle middle of of the the forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). cAssERoLE, EN cocorrE - Put CASSEROLE, EN COCOTfE- Put

750 750

QUAIL 20 minutes. minutes. piece piece of of buttero butter, cover, cover, and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for 20 garlic lightly in of garlic and 2 cloves of Indian /ndian sauce. sauce. Fry 22 onions onions and 2 cloves diced cooking apples. and 2 2 diced butter. butter. Add Add aa little curry powder and Moisten with brown veal stock, cook, and pass through a sieve. Pour into a saucepan and taste the sauce to make sure

Cold Coldquails. quailS. cArLLEs CAILLESFRoDes FROIDES -- In In addition addition to to various various recipes

in in this this section, section, all ail the the methods methods of of preparation given given for for cold partridge partridge are are suitable suitable forcold for cold quail. (See PARTRIDGE.) PARTRIDGE.) Devilled quails. quails. cAILLEs CAILLES cnrrdns GRILLÉES A re LA orl.sl,s DIABLE -- Split the the Devilled quails quails down down the the back back and and flatten flatten them them slightly. slightly. Brush with melted butter, butter, season season with with salt salt and and freshly freshly ground ground pepper and melted dip in in white white breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Grill Grill the the quails quails on on both both sides under dip low heat. heat. Arrange Arrange on on aa dish dish and garnish with a border border of aa low sliced lemons lemons and and gherkins. gherkins. Serve Serve with with Diable Diable sauce (see (see sliced SAUCE) flavoured flavoured with concentrated concentrated game stock boiled SAUCE) down to to the the consistency of afumel (q.v.). down Quails iIl la la financidre financière (shrffed) I. I. crunss CAILLES iÀ ll LA nmlxcrinr FINANCIÈREQuails and cook cook the the quails as described in the recipe for Prepare and in cases cases ((stuffed). When they they are are cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with stuffed) . When Quails in tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and glaze aa few tablespoons in the the oven, oven, placing placing each bird on an an oval cro0ton croûton fried in in butter. Surround Surround with with d à la la financiire garnish garnish (see butter. quail. GARNISHES). Put a a thick slice of trufre truffle on on each each quai!. GARNISHES). juices with Madeira, (see Dilute the the pan panjuices Madeira, add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see Dilute SAUCE) based based on on gamefumet (q.v.) and pour over over the birds. SAUCE) Quails ià la la financiire financière II. n. cxrres CAILLES A À t-l LA FINANCIÈRE nNlNcrinp -- Proceed Quails as described described in the above above recipe and arrange arrange the quails with as their garnish garnish in aa puffpastry puff pastry shell or in a timbale timbale made made of of Fine their DOUGH), baked baked blind. lining paste paste (see DOUGH), lining à la la financiire financière with rice border. border. CAILLES QuaiJs dr i LA LA cAILLEs À with aa rice Quails FINANCIÈRE EN EN BoRDt BORDURE RlZ -- Prepare the and the the quails and Prepare the nNa,Ncrins RE DE DE RJz garnish as and garnish for Quails as described described in the recipe for Quails d lafinanciire and serve them them in with ring with Rice ring in aa rice border (see BORDER, Rice rice border garnishes) . garnishes). Quails Stuffthe couRMANpn - Stuffthe LA GOURMANDEcxrus ÀA LA la gourmande. CAILLES Qualls ài la quails with trufres and chopped chopped truffles quails of butter, lean ham and with aa mixture mixture of and cook pan juices with with chamchamthe pan butter. Dilute the and cook them them in in butter. into aa shredded into fresh trufres shredded pagne and stock. Add fresh and chicken chicken stock. julienne (q.v.). Arrange foundation dish, on on aa foundation Arrange the quails on aa dish, oflarge filled with with aa salpicon salpicon in butter and filled mushrooms stewed of large mushrooms stewed in (q.v.) pour piping hot and pour hot and (q.v.) of until piping gras. Heat the sauce sauce untiI of foie Heat the foie gras. over over the the birds. birds. Quails Truss the the grecque. CAILLES A LA rA GRECQUE cnrcQue -- Truss cAILLES À la grecque. Qurils ài la quails in aa Arrange in quails as in butter. butter. Arrange cook in an entrée entrie and and cook for an as for pyramid (see RICE) and grecque (see RICE) and la grecque pyramid on of Rice Rlce àd la foundation of on aa foundation pour constock conwith game stock pour over pan juices diluted diluted with over the the pan centrated fumet (q.u.). of aafumet centrated to to the the consistency of Grilled rA' DUCHESSE oucl{Essu cRlrrfes ÀA LA la ducbesse. cAILLEs GRlLLÉES Grilled quails A la duchesse. CAILLES - Grill quails as for Devil/ed Devilled quails. Arrange as described described for Grill the quails -them (see POTATOES), potato (see small cakes cakes of of Duchess Duchess potato them on on small garnish surand surbutter, and with butter, dressed with garnish with with asparagus asparagus tips dressed round based on on round with with aaingof Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE), based aa gamefumel (q.v.), (q.v.), with with butter added to it. L'rNomNNE - quails ài l'indienne. cnnr"frs ÀA L'INDIENNE I'indienne. CAILLES cAILLES GRILLÉES Grilted quails For bowl: 300 300 g.g. in aa bowl: quails prepare prepare the mixture in following mixture the following For 12 12 quails 01 paste,1I into aa paste, (ll oz., generous liblended into lf cup) cup) butter, butter, blended oz., generous tablespoon paste, powder, 1I tablespoon Mulligatawny paste, tablespoon Mulligatawny tablespoon curry curry powder, 22 teaspoons Worcester Harvey sauce, sauce, teaspoons Harvey sauce, 22 teaspoons Worcester sauce, 22 tablespoons (3 tea(3 tablespoons) chutney, 1I teaunsweetened chutney, tablespoons) unsweetened spoon paste. paprika and into aa paste. Blend into spoon paprika and salt. salt. Blend Remove put aa little the paste into into little of of the Remove the and put the breastbone breastbone and each under the oven, andcool cool them under each bird. Sear them them quickly in in the oven, and bird. Sear aa light quail with with the thesame same light press. Coat of each each quail Coat the outside of paste paste and grill. grill. When finish cooking cookinginin the the When they are brown, brown, finish they are (see oven. Prepare aa border border of of Game Game forcemeat forcemeat (see put the arrange the the FORCEMEATS), put the middle, middle, arrange the rice rice inin the quails rest quails on pour over andserve serve the therest little of ofthe thesauce sauceand on top, top, pour over aalittle Sef)arat~~ly. Serve straw potatoes at the same time. separately. Serve straw at the same time. lightlyand and Rice for the the garnish. Brown chopped shallots shallots lightly moisten becooked. riceisis to to be cooked. moisten with with the stock which the rice stock inin which Season te and paprika. paste powder, Mulligatawny and paprika. Season with with curry curry powder, Mulligatawny pas Cook en strain strainer. finestrainer. throughaafine Cook for for aa moment, strain through moment, ththen Pour this stock over the rice, bring to the boil, add good Pour this stock over the rice, bring to the boil, addaagood

the flavour is good. Pour over the quails. (Recipe by M. A. Menager, chef to King Edward VII of England.) Jellied quails

i la p6rigourdine.

cnnrss

A r.a.

rfntcounorwr,

game gratin game with À I gratin A L,c. celfE - Boneind stuff the quails with gras and trufles, (see FORCEMEATS), foie and truffles, forcemeat (see foie gras forcemeat quails, wrap wrap each each the quails, quite aa lot Reshape the lot oftruffies. of truffies. Reshape allowing quite allowing 25 from 20 20 to to 25 Poach from piece ofmuslin both ends. ends. Poach in a piece of muslin and tie at both jelly stock (see (see JELL JELLD, flavoured in liquid liquid Game jelly minutes in Y), tlavoured cool in in to cool the quails to wine. Leave the with Madeira any other wine. Madeira or any into Put them them into dry on on a cloth. Put their liquor. Drain, unwrap, and dry jelly and pour over the over the and pour the jelly Clarify the bowl. Clarify or glass bowl. aa terrine or before serving. serving. quails. Chill thoroughly before LIMoUsINE - Arrange the curr,rs ÀA LA la limousine. CAILLES LA LIMOUSINEQuails Quails ài la. quails, on on aa founquails, grilled as for Devilled quails, as described described for (q.v.), in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon (q.v.), cooked in dation of artichoke artichoke hearts cooked (see purie (see with Chestnut Chestnut purée filled with in butter butter and and filled simmered in simmered ring of of Demi-glace Demi'glace border aa ring round the the border CHESTNUTS). Pour round gamefumet,with (see SAUCE) concentrated gamefumet, based on on concentrated SAUCE) based sauce (see with it. butter added added to it. put quails, put Bone the the quails, LUcULLUs -- Bone Lucullus. CAILLES cAILLES LUCULLUS Quails Lucullus. gras, seasoned (l oz.) seasoned g. (l 25 g. oz.) uncookedfoie uncooked/oie gras, about 25 each bird bird about into each peeled truffle. truffie. small peeled studded with with aa small and studded with salt salt and and spices and with in the the cook as quails into aa sauté as described described in and cook saut6 pan and Put the the quails Put filled shell filled in cases. cases. Arrange in a low pastry shell recipe for for Quails Quails in (see TRUFFLE). Dilute Dilute Truffies àd la Ia crime (see with aa ragoût ragofrt of of Truffies down veal stock, pan juices with brown veal stock, boil down add brown with Madeira, Madeira, add the the panjuices pour over the birds. birds. by half halfand over the and pour down Open the the qquails MINUTE -- Open LA MINUTE uails down c.qlt-rrs ÀA LA Minute quails. CAILLES Beat from the the inside. inside. Beat bones from small bones the back and and remove remove the the small the back the pepper and saut6 the and sauté with salt salt and and pepper lightly lightly to Season with to flatten. flatten. Season bothsides. sides. on both them slightly slightly on birds browning them briskly in in butter, butter, browning birds briskly fried inin onionfried little chopped chopped onion When with aa littie When done, sprinkle with done, sprinkle mushrooms (l parsley. Put sliced mushrooms butter Put thinly thinly sliced and chopped parsley. butter and dash of brandy, pan to per per quail) quail) into to brown, brown, add add aadash saut6 pan into the sauté (q.v.\ and boil for vealstock, stock, boil moisten gamefumet (q.v.) brown veal and brown vith gamefumet moisten with pour this this sauce sauce and pour aa few dashoflemonjuice of lemon juiceand few moments, add aadash moments, add over over the the birds. birds. Half bone bone Quails rl MONSELET lroxssrrr - - Half cAILLES ÀALA Monselet. CAILLES ta Monselet. Quails lii la (q.v.)oftruffies the quails. Stuffthem of trufres andfoie withaa salpicon (q.v.) Stuffthem with the quails. gras. Wrap each muslin and and poach in of muslin each bird bird inin aa piece of game stock made LVJ'im:ln!-n.avourea from the the quails'bones made from Madeira-flavoured game and unwrap, put into an Drain the the birds, birds, unwrap, and trimmings. trimmings. Drain earthenware withaa garnish of sliced orcasserole casserole with earthenware cocotte cocotte or and artichoke mushroomsand butter, cultivated mushrooms artichoke hearts hearts tossed tossedininbutter, quails thick whichthe thequails liquorininwhich Strain the theliquor trufres. Strain oftruffles. thick slices slicesof were cream,boil boil quantityofthick freshcream, of thickfresh werecooked, anequal equalquantity cooked,add addan putininaa down andput pour over thecocotte cocotteand birds.Cover Coverthe down and over the thebirds. and pour slow slowoven for55minutes. minutes. ovenfor Cold Truss1212 DECAILLES cAILLES- -Truss FRoIDEDE Cold quail mousse. mousse.MOUSSE Moussr FROIDE quails quailsas Madeira-flavoured andbraise braise them themininMadeira-tlavoured as foran anentrée entrie and stock, mushroom trufleand andmushroom vegetables and andtruffie stock, with withthe the usual usualvegetables trimmings quails totocool thebraising braising coolininthe thequails trimmings added addedto toit.it.Leave Leavethe liquor. liquor. Drain Drainand bonethem themcOluplet€:ly, completely, taking care to preserve andbone the wingsintact, intact,asasthey they will be used for garnishing the thewings mousse. mousse. Using quails,make thequails, makea a skinsof ofthe bonesand andskins Usingthe thetrimmings, trimmings, bones Brown UCE). (seeSA SAUCE). Brown chaud-froid sauce(see chaud-froid sauce Prepare Y), flavoured (seeJELL with flavouredwith stock(see JELLY), Prepare Game Game jelly stock Madeira wine. Madeira or orsorne some otherwine. The follows: madeasasfollows: Themousse mixtureisismade moussemixture Pound quails'flesh adding finelyinina amortar, mortar,adding fleshfinely Poundthe therest restof thequails' ofthe totoitit 175 grasand and3 3oror4 4 cookedfoie 175g.g.(6(6oz., cup)cooked oz.,i i cup) foiegras

751 75r

QUAIL tablespoons of of the the chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce. sauce. When When the the mixture mixture isis tablespoons quite smooth smooth take take itit out out of of the the mortar mortar and and rub rub itit through through aa quite fine sieve, sieve, or or use use an an electric electric blender. Transfer the blender. Transfer the mixture mixture to to aa fine bowl on on ice. ice. Stir Stir vigorously, vigorously, add add aa dash dash of brandy, 22 or of brandy, or 33 bowl jellyand tablespoons concentrated concentrated liquid game jelly liquid game (scant I and2l tablespoons 21 dl.dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) fresh fresh cream, cream, very very stiffiy stiffiy whipped. whipped. B1end Blend pint, carefully. carefully. Line the the bottom bottom and and sides sides of of aa mousse mousse mould mould with with aa layer layer Line game jelly. Arrange a border on the bottom of alternating of game of jelly. Arrange a border on the bottom of aIternating rows of of thick thick slices slices of of truffies, truffies, cooled cooled in in Madeira, Madeira, and and half half of of rows quails'wings, the quails' cooled under press and under aa press and coated coated with with the the the wings, cooled chaud-froid sauce. sauce. Fill Fill the the mould mould with with the the mousse mixture to mousse mixture to chaud-froid (l inch) within 22 cm. cm. (1 inch) of of the the edge. edge. Lay Lay the the remaining remaining wings wings on on within top, alternating alternating with with rows rows of of truffie trufle slices. slices. Finish Finish off off with with aa top, jelly, filling layer of game jelly, of game filling the the mould mould right right up up to to the top. the top. layer Leave the the mousse mousse on ice or on ice or in in aa refrigerator refrigerator until until itit sets sets Leave completely. Turn Turn out out on on aa dish dish or or on on aa buttered buttered croûton. cro0ton. completely. jelly and Surround with with chopped game jelly chopped game put aa border and put border of of small small Surround pieces ofjelly, cut in the shape of wolfs teeth, around the edge pieces ofjelly, cut in the shape ofwolfs teeth, around the edge of the the dish. dish. of Instead ofputting quail mousse of putting the the quail mousse into into aa mould, mould, itit can can be be Instead put into into aa dish jelly. Pile dish on on aa layer layer of of weil-set well-set jelly. Pile the mixture into into the mixture put garnish with dome, garnish quails' wings with quails' wings coated coated with with the the chaudchaudaa dome, sauce and and slivers jelly over slivers of of truffies, truffies, and pour half-set and pour half-set jelly froid sauce over froid the top. top. the

sprinkled with with aa little little brandy brandy and and mixed mixed with with diced diced truffies. truffies. sprinkled Over this this forcemeat forcemeat put put aa layer gratin game layer of game forcemeat of ÀA gratin Over forcemeat (see FORCEMEA FORCEMEATS), then half half the quails, pressing the stuffed pressing stuffed quails, (see TS), then down weil. well. Cover Cover with with another another layer layer of forcemeat, put put in of forcemeat, down in the the rest of quails and of the the quails and follow follow with with aa layer layer of forcemeat. Cover of forcemeat. Cover rest this with with aa layer layer of of truffied trufred forcemeat, forcemeat, flatten flatten it, it, and this and cover cover again with with aa layer layer of of thin thin rashers rashers of lean bacon. of lean bacon. Seal Seal with with aa again pastry Iid. lid. Decorate Decorate with pieces of with pieces pastry cut of pastry cut in in fancy fancy shapes. shapes. pastry Make aa hole hole in in the the middle middle of the lid of the lid to to allow allow steam steam to to escape, escape, Make and brush brush the the top top with with beaten beaten egg. Bake in egg. Bake in aa hot hot oven oven for for and about 11 llhours. about hours. When cooked, cooked, leave leave the pdti to get cold, the pâté to get cold, and pour Iiquid and pour liquid When jelly stock Game jelly stock(see JELLY) through the the hole hole in in the the top. top. Game (see JELL Y) through

t

Hinged mould mould for for Hinged quail pâté pit6 quail

pErrrs pors peas. CAILLES with peas. cArLLEs AUx Quails with Quails AUX PETITS POIS -- Cook the quails in aa casserole casserole as as described described in in the appropriate recipe. in the appïopriate recipe. Have (scant pint, ready I litre pint, 2* 2| cups) fresh garden garden peas, cooked in ready litre (scant butter, and sorne young onions. Put the peas into the some small small young butter, and cocotte and and leave leave the whole to simmer together cocotte the whole to simmer together without boiling. boiling. c,clnrs pETrr-DUcquails on the Split the quails Quailspetitduc. Quails petit-duc. CAILLES PETIT-DUC - Split back and season season with salt and paprika. back and paprika. Sprinkle Sprinkle with melted butter butter and and dip in white breadcrumbs. Grill them and arrange each each one on aa little little cake of of Anna Anna potatoes potatoes (see (see POTATOES), POT A TOES), baked baked in in tartlet tartlet tins. Put I1 large large grilled grilled mushroom, mushroom, filled with grated horseradish, on each each quail. quai!. Heat a few few tablespoons tablespoons of grated horseradish, Game Game fumel fumet (see (see FUMET), FUMEn, add Madeira and and butter, and pour pour over over the the birds. Quails Quails with with rice. rice. cATLLES CAILLES AU AU Rrz RlZ - Truss Truss the the quails quails as as for for an entrie, entrée, season season and and cook cook in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange them them in in a pyramid pyramid on on a a foundation foundation of of a Rice Rice pilaf pilaf (see (see PILAF) PILAF) to to which the the butter butter left left in in the the pan pan has has been been added. added. Add Add aa dash dash of ofbrandy brandy to to juices, moisten the the pan panjuices, moisten with with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock stock or concentrated, concentrated Game fumet fumet (see (see FUMET). FUMET). Pour Pour over over the the quails. quails. Quails Quails with with rice rice (stufred). (stuffed). cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU Rrz RIZ -- Prepare Prepare and and cook cook the the quails quails as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Quails Quails in in cases. cases. Arrange Rice pilaf Arrange them them on on aa foundation foundation of of Rice pilaf (see (see PILAF). PILAF). Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with brown brown veal veal stock, stock, simmer simmer for for aa few few moments moments and and pour pour over over the the quails. quails. Quails Quails with with risotto. risotto. cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU Rrsorro RlSOTTO -- Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Quails Quails with with rice, rice, replacing replacing the the rice rice pilaf with Risotto pilafwith Risotto with with cheese. cheese. Quails Quails with with risotto risotto ià la la pi6montaise. piémontaise. clnres CAILLES lu AU nrsorro,r RISOTTO À p$MoNrlrsr Arrange quails r.c, LA PIÉMONTAISE -- Arrange quails cooked cooked in in butter butter on on Risotto dà la (see RICE), RICE), mixed mixed with with finely finely sliced sliced white white la piimontaise piémontaise (see truffies. Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal truffies. Dilute stock stock and and pour pour over over the the quails. quails. Roast Roast quails. quails. cArLLEs CAILLES R0TrFs RÔTIES -- Wrap Wrap the the quails quails first first in in vine vine leaves, then in in thin thin rashers rashers of ofbacon bacon and and secure secure with with string. string. leaves, then Roast Roast on on aa spit spit before before aa lively Iiveiy fire fire for for 15 15to to 20 20 mins mins (or (orinin the the oven, oven, for for 12-15 12-15 mins). mins). Arrange Arrange each each quail quail on on aa garnished garnished canapi. canapé. Garnish Garnish with with watercress watercress and and quarters quarters of of lemon. lemon. Dilute Dilutethe the pan panjuices juicesand and serve servewith with the theresulting resultingsauce. sauce. Quails Quails ià la la romaine. romaine. cArLLEs CAILLES AÀ ra LA noulrNr ROMAINE -- Heat Heat some sorne butter butterin in aa flameproof flameproofearthenware earthenwarecasserole casserole and and brown brown the the quails quails all ail over. over. Add Add fresh fresh peas peaswhich which have have been been prepared prepared inin

t

Quails Quails in in aa nest nest

QuSb Quails in in a a nest. nest. cArLLEs CAILLES AU AU NrD NID - Bone Bone the the quails, quails, stuff stuff with with iÀ gratin gratin garne game forcemeat forcemeat (se (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies, truffies, wrap wrap each each bird bird in in a a small small piece piece of of

muslin muslin and and make make into into aa roll. roll. Poach Poach for for 18 18 minutes minutes in in stock stock prepared from the bones and trimmings, with clear veal stock prepared from the bones and trimmings, with c1ear veal stock and Madeira. and Madeira. Drain Drain the the quails, quails, unwrap, unwrap, press press in in aa cloth c10th to to give them their proper shape and, glaze lightly in the oven. give them their proper shape and glaze Iightly in the oven. Arrange Arrange them them in in a a nest nest of of straw straw potatoes, potatoes, prepared prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Potato Potato nesrs nests (see (see POTATOES). POT ATOES). Line with Line with aa salted salted batter batter pancake pancake (see (see CREpES) CRËPES) and and fill filt with with aa ragofit ragoût of of cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, small small button button mushrooms mushrooms and and trufreso truffies, blended blended with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Financiire Financière sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which the liquor left over from poaching the (see SAUCE) to which the liquor left over from poaching the quails has been added. Put the rest ofthe ragofrt on top. quails has been added. Put the rest of the ragoût on top. pArf Quatl Quail p0t6. pâté. PÂTÉ on DE cATLLES CAILLES -- Bone Bone the the quails. quails. Stuff Stuff each each piece with a of with a piece of )À gratin gratin forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) about ahazelnut, foie gras, about the the size size of ofa hazelnut, and and the thesame same amount amount of offoie gras, studded studded with with aa piece piece of oftrufre, truffie, the the whole whole well weil seasoned seasoned with with salt and spices spices and and sprinkled sprinkled with with aa dash dash of of brandy. brandy. Wrap Wrap salt and each quail in a very thin rasher ofbacon. each quail in a very thin rasher of bacon. Line or rectangular rectangular mould mould with with fine fine pastry, pastry, Line aa hinged hinged oval oval or then then with with thin thin rashers rashers of ofbacon. bacon. Cover Cover with with aa layer layer of offinely finely pounded forcemeat made of veal and lean and fat pork in pounded forcemeat made of veal and lean and fat pork in equal proportions, bound with equal proportions, bound with an an egg, egg, well weil seasoned, seasoned,

752 752

QUATRE.QUARTS QUATRE-QUARTS the the following following manner: manner: fry fry finely finely chopped chopped young young onions onions with with lean ham in in butter. butter. Add Add freshly freshly shelled shelled peas. peas. Season Season lean diced diced ham with and aa pinch pinch of of sugar. sugar. Cover Co ver and and cook cook from from 35 35 to to 40 40 with salt salt and

minutes. minutes. Cover Cover the the casserole casserole and finish finish cooking cooking together together in in the the oven. oven. Serve Serve in in the the same same casserole. casserole. CAILLES EN EN cocorfi COCOTTE seNt-ilalns SAINT-MARS -- Put Put Quails Saint-Mars. Saint-Mars. cAILLES Quails the the quails, quails, trussed trussed as as for for an entrde, entrée, into into a saut6 sauté pan. pan. Cover Cover them them with with aa julienne julienne of of coarsely coarsely shredded shredded carrot, onion and celery, lightly fried in in butter and moistened moistened with veal veal stock flavoured cook without without a lid. lido Drain ftavoured with sherry. Season Season and and cook the the quails, quails, untruss untruss them and and arrange in in an an earthenware cocotte cocotte or or casserole. casserole. Cover Cover with with a julienne julienne of of coarsely coarsely shredded mushrooms. Pour Pour the pan pan juices juices over shredded truffies truffles and mushrooms. (3 tablespoons) julienne. Sprinkle with with 2 tablespoons (3 the julienne. brandy brandy and and dot dot with small small pieces pieces of of butter. butter. Cover the cocotte cocotte and seal the lid !id with flour-and-water ftour-and-water paste. Cook Cook in the the oven, oven, se al the a bain-marie, from 15 to l8 18 minutes. minutes. in abain-marie.from Quails ià la Souvarof. clrtrrs CAILLES A À rl LA souvlRoF SOUVAROF - Stuff the Quails quails with a salpicon salpicon (q.v.) of of foie gras and trufres, truffles, season season entrde. dash of brandy. brandy. Truss as for an entrée. sprinkle with a dash and sprinkle Fry briskly in butter for 6 minutes. Put into an earthenware cocotte with cooked cooked truffies, truffles, allowing 2 truffies truffles per per quail. pepper. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan juices juices with Season with with salt and pepper. salt and Season SAUCE) based Demi-glace sauce (see Madeira, moisten with Demi-glace (see SAUCE) Madeira, on fumet (see FUMET). Simmer for a few moments on Game Garne fumet and pour over the quails. Add a dash of brandy. brandy. Cover the l2 minutes. cocotte, cocotte. seal the lid on and cook in the oven for 12 TALLEYRINo -- Split the cl'tlrns AÀ LA TALLEYRAND Quails ài la TaUeyrand. Talleyrand. CAILLES Quaits on both Coat on season. Coat quails open, flatten them lightly and season. open, ftatten (see mirepoix (see Vegetable mirepoix of Vegetable si des with layer of with aa thin thin layer sides lean; chopped with 1I tablespoon tablespoon lean, MIREPOIX), mixed MIREPOIX), mixed with truffies. Wrap each quail in a piece chopped truffles. cooked cooked ham and chopped roll butter and roll of pig's caul or salt pork. Sprinkle with melted butter flame and low ftame on aa low Grill the the quails on in in fresh fresh breadcrumbs. Grill filled with and filled arrange arrange on on puff pastry tartlets, baked blind and Pirigueux sauce (see PURÉE). Serve with Périgueux Mushroom purde (see PUREE). Serve Mushroom purée (see SAUCE) a gamefumet. based on onagamefumet. SAUCE) based pn CAILLES A LA r,,l, quails in jeUy. ca.rrrss À (canned) quails coNSERvE DE Tinned Tinned (canned) ielly. CONSERVE (7 oz.) pork, g. (7 fine pork, 200 g. oz.\ fine GELÉE ingredients. 200 csrfn -- Forcemeat Forcemeat ingredients. (see gratin game forcemeat (see (4 oz., ) gratin minced, minced, 100 100 gg (4 oz., 1-j cup) cup) À g. (7 (7 oz., generous i? cup) cookedfoie cup) cookedfoie FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), 200 200 g. oz., generous (3 oz.) (net weight), brandy, salt, pepper gras,75 g. (3 brandy, salt, gras, 75 g. trufres (net oz.) truffles and spices. and spices. from beef, beef, made from stock made Liquor for stewing. meat jelly stock stewing. Strong Strong meatjelly Liquorfor the rinds and and the bacon rinds 11 veal feet, chicken, chicken, bacon veal knuckle, knuckle, calves' calves' feet, (fpint, scant cups) scant 22 cups) usual dl. (ipint, aromatics, 4a dl. usual vegetables and and aromatics, Madeira.

Canape ofjellied Canapé of jellied quails quails garnished garnished with with gras(Izdoyen. Nicolas) foie gras foie (Ledoyen. Phot. Phol. Nicolas)

the Remove the quails as an entrée. entrie. Remove as for Method. Method. Truss the the quails for an quails ftat the flat on on the spread the breastbone and spread backbone backbone and the breastbone the quails put quail put Inside each each quail with brandy. table. Season Season and sprinkle with brandy. Inside piece of/oie of foie with aa piece egg, with size of of an an egg, the size forcemeat the of the forcemeat a a piece piece of

in the middle. quarter of trufre, in of aa truffle, gras, studded with aa quarter studded with gras, the middle. piece of of buttered buttered in aa piece quails and each in wrap each and wrap the quails Reshape the pan. Cover Cover saut6 pan. buttered sauté paper. Pack into aa buttered tightly into Pack them tightly paper. previously be be should previously which should trimmings, which with the bones and trimmings, tossed in butter. to bring to and bring pint, scant Madeira and scant cup) cup) Madeira Moisten with 22 dl. (! $ pint, paper- Cook the in the Cook in of buttered buttered paper. sheet of the boil. boil. Cover with aa sheet gently with quails gently the with the minutes. Test the quails oven, covered, for 25 minutes. are out, they they are comes out, if no no blood blood cornes point of needle: if of aa trussing needle: point liquor. cooked. Cool in the braising liquor. into tins, tins, Put them them into them. Put and dry dry them. Drain the birds, unwrap and liquid Game Game jelly clarified liquid with clarified Cover with breast downwards. downwards. Cover ielly breast has liquor has (see JELL braising liquor which the the dil diluted to which stock (see JELLY), stock Y), to uted braising been added. added. been tins. Mark Mark lids of of the the tins. quite cold, cold, solder the lids is quite the jelly is When thejelly pan. Cover water. with cold cold water. Cover with the tins into aa big pan. them and and put the them are well well sure they they are to make make sure so as as to the tins tins so Put aa weight weight on on the Put uninterrupted of uninterrupted l0 minutes minutes of hour 10 them 1I hour submerged. Give Give them submerged. tins quail, and hours for for tins lf hours and li for tins tins containing containing 1I quail, boiling for boiling put them table on the the table them on the tins, tins, put quails. Drain Drain the containing 22 quails. containing up. placing them side up. them marked marked side other, placing separated from from each each other, separated quite cold. cold. Leave until until quite Leave wild four-year-old wild name for for aa four-year-old French name QUART ANTER -- French QUARTANIER boar. boar. quarter of beef forepart of of beef of the the forepart The quarter QUARTER. euARTIER -- The QUARTER. QUARTIER made The hindquarter hindquarter isis made sides. The and the the sides. includes the shoulder and the shoulder includes sirloin. up of of the the thigh thigh and and sirloin. up of to describe quarter isis spoken describe spoken ofto In French French butchery butchery aa'fifth' In 'fifth' quarter horns, skin, horns, parts of animal: skin, slaughtered animal: of the the slaughtered inedible parts all the the inedible aU hoofs and and tallow. tallow. hoofs of veal. veal. from the the rump rump of Piece from QU ASI -- Piece QUASI quarters) -- Household cake (Four quarters) Household cake QUATRE-QUARTS QUATRE-QUARTS (Four quantities of flour, butter butter of eggs, eggs, ftour, equal quantities made up up of of equal mixture, made mixture, (English pound pound cake.) cake.) and sugar. sugar. (English and (4 oz., with sugar with oz.,1cup) 100 g.g. (4 in aa bowl bowl 100 Beat together together in 1- cup) sugar Beat becomes the mixture mixture becomes until the small on ones either 22large eggs or or 33small es until either large eggs (4oz., flour, and and cup) sifted sifted ftour, Add 100 100 g.g. (4 oz.,l1 cup) white and and frothy. frothy. Add white with orangeorangeFlavour with (4 oz., butter. Flavour cup) melted melted butter. 100 g.g. (4 oz., * cup) 100 peel, or liqueur, and and any liqueur, lemon peel, or any or lemon blossom water, water,orange orange or blossom gentle heat heat oven at ataagentle pour into Cook in in the theoven mould. Cook intoaabuttered buttered mould. pour for 25 25 or 30minutes. minutes. or 30 for

t

jelly: quails, quails, quails ininjelly: Ingredients for quails Ingredients for Nicolas) ( Ledoyen. Phol. foie Phot. Nicolas) gras, truffle, orange (Ledoyen. foiegras, trufre, orange

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QUENELLE QUENELLE Dumpling made madewith withfish fishor QLIENELLE - -Dumpling ormeat meat forcemeat forcemeat QUENELLE bound with eggs. The word is said to come from the Anglobound with eggs. The word is said to come from the AngloSaxon knyll,meaning to pound, to grind, because the flesh of knyll, meaning to pound, to grind, because the flesh of Saxon the meat or fish, before being turned into quenelles, must be the meat or fish, before being tumed into quenelles, must be pounded in a mortar. pounded in a mortar. are made with all kinds of meat, poultry, game, Quenelles are Quenelles made with ail kinds of meat, poultry, game,

Linewith with ordinary ordinary short short crust pastry (see (seeDOUGH, crust pastry DOUGH, Lining Lining Line p,gste)aapie piedish plate with dishor orplate withfluted flutededges, edges,20 20cm cm(8 inches) inin paste) (8 inches) diameterand and weil wellbuttered. buttered. The The pastry pastryshould shouldextend extend aalittle little diameter beyond the theedges. edges. beyond Putthin thinslices slices o( ofstreaky bacon, blanched blanchedand andlightly lightly fried fried Put streaky bacon, butter, inin the the bottom bottomof of this thisflan flancase. case. Fill Fillthe thecrust crustwith with aa inin butter, mixtule composed composedof of 44eggs eggs and and44dl. pint, scant dl. (i(} pint, scant 22cups) cups) mixture thick fresh fresh crea cream, seasoned with with salt saltand and weil well beaten. beaten. When m, seasoned thick Wtien the flan flan isisfilled, filled,add add22teaspoons teaspoons butter buttercut cut into into tiny pieces. tiny pieces. the Cook in inthe theoven oven at atmoderate moderate heat heat for for 30 30 to to 35 35 minutes. minutls. Serve Serve Cook very hot. hot. very Sometimes the pastry isis enriched the flan flan pastry enriched with with thin thin slices slices of Sometimes of Gruydre cheese, cheese, set set altemately alternately with with the the bacon. bacon. Gruyère

fish

and shellfish. They are made in different shapes, large and shellfish. They are made in different shapes, large and fish and small. The most important is the quenelle prepared with the smal!. The most important is the quenelle prepared with the forcemeat godiveau or called godiveau or Quenelle (see Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see forcemeat caIJed FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). particularly the the small small kind, kind, are Quenelles, particularly are used used as as an an Quenelles, elernent such garnishes asfinanciire, Godard, Toulouse, etc. element ininsuch garnishes asfinancière, Godard, Toulouse, etc. Large quenelles, which are generally embellished are generally embellished with with Large quenelles, which truffies, pickled tongue, etc., are used as a more elaborate tru ffies , pickled tongue, etc., are used as a more elaborate garnish for large braised fish or entties. They are also used to garnish for large braised fish or entrées. They are also used to prepare tarts, timbales and, other preparations of the same prepare tarts, timbales and other preparations of the sa me kind. kind. gras. euENELLEs DE ForE cRAs - pound a of foie foie gras. Quenelles of Quenelles QUENELLES DE FOIE GRAS - Pound a raw foie gras and rub it through a fine sieve. pound half as raw foie gras and rub it through a fine sieve. Pound half as much raw chicken flesh as thereisfoiegras, mixing in with it, much raw chic ken flesh as there isfoie gras, mixing in with it, little by little, half its weight of Bread panada(see pANADA). little by little, halfits weight of Bread panada (see PAN ADA). Rub this forcemeat through a sieve. Put it back in the mortar Rub this forcemeat through asieve. Put it back in the mortar and pound again, adding to it, little by little, the pur6e of foie and pound again, adding to it, little by httle, the purée of foie gras and or 4 egg yolks. Season with salt, pepper and spices. gras and 33 or 4 egg yolks. Season with salt, pepper and spices. Beat this forcemeat on ice. Beat this forcemeat on ice. Make the quenelles in the usual way (with a spoon or with a Make the quenelles in the usual way (with a spoon or with a forcing bag) and poach them in salted water. forcing bag) and poach them in salted water. of Meat, meat, veal, veal, chicken, chicken, game. game. QUENELLES Quenelles DE euENELLEs DE Quenelles of VIANDES, vEAU, VoLAILLE, GIBIER - prepare in the same way as VIANDES, VEAU, VOLAILLE, GIBIER - Prepare in the same way as those for pike. (See FORCEMEATS, euenelle forcemeat; tbose for pike. (See FORCE ME ATS, Quenelle PIKE, Pike quenelles.) PIKE, Pike quenelles.) pike of mousseline. Quenelles DE BROCHET BRocrrET euENELLEs DE Quenelles of pike mousseline. QUENELLES MoussELrNE Made with with Mousseline (see Made Mousseline forcemeat forcemeat (see MOUSSELINE FORCEMEAT). Mould in a tablespoon, lay in a buttered FORCEMEAT). Mould in a tablespoon, lay in a buttered saut6 pan, and poach in boiling salted water from 8 to l0 poach in boiling salted water from 8 to 10 sauté pan, and minutes according to size. minutes according to size. Drain, dry, and place on a crofiton of bread fried fried in in butter butter Drain, dry, and place on a croûton ofbread or on puffpastry crusts. Garnish and sauce are according to or on puff pastry crusts. Gamish and sauce are according to the particular recipe. Mousseline quenelles may be prepared the particular recipe. Mousseline quenelles may be prepared in the same way, using other fish: whiting, brill, sole, salmon, in the same way, using other fish: whiting, brill, sole, salmon, trout. trout.

Lorraine Quiche Lorraine

(old recipe) --'Roll Lorraine (old thinly as possible Quiche Lorraine 'Roll out as thinly some bread bread dough. dough. Put this this sheet of dough on a metal dish sorne put small with raised raised and and fluted fluted edges, edges, sprinkled with flour. flour. Put with pieces ofvery fresh fresh butter butter ail all over over the dough. pieces ofvery 'Fill the dish with with a mixture of 'Fill the pie pie dish of thick cream and eggs well Cook in a very weil beaten beaten together together and seasoned with salt. Cook hot oven for Serve very hot oven for aa maximum maximum of of l0 10 minutes. Serve very hot.' Little cbeese. pETlrEs PETITES erncrrEs QUICHES AU AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE Little quiches quiches with cheese. Line Line tartlet tarti et cases cases with with short crust cru st pastry (see (see DOUGH, Lining Lining paste). pas te). Put Put Gruyire Gruyère cheese, cheese, cut into very small pieces, pieces, in in the the bottom bottom of of these these cases. cases. Fill Fill them with a mixture of cream cream and and eggs. eggs. Cook Cook in in the oven for for 14 14 or or 15 minutes. minutes. Turn Tum out out and and serve serve very very hot. hot. Little with ham. barn. psrrrEs PETITES etrtcrrs QUICHES AU AU JAMBoN JAMBON Little quiches quiches with Proceed Proceed as as in in the the last last recipe, recipe, replacing replacing the the cheese by by lean lean cooked cooked ham ham cut cut up up into into small small pieces. pieces.

QUIGNON QUIGNON - Big Big wedge wedge of of bread bread cut cut from from one one of of the the larger larger French French loaves. loaves.

QTIILLET QUILLET @ttisserie) (pâtisserie) - This This sweetmeat sweetmeat was was created created in in aa

Parisianpdrisserie which was was managed managed for for aa long long time time by by M. M. Parisian pâtisserie which Charabot, Charabot, one one of ofthe the masters masters of of French French pastr!-making. pastry-making. This This isis the the recipe: recipe: Put Put in in aa copper copper basin basin 500 500 g.g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) sugar, sugar, and and 15 15 whole whole eggs, eggs, powdered powdered vanilla vanilla and and aa very very small smalJ pinch pinch of ofsalt. salt. Beat Beatwith with aa whisk whisk over over aa gentle gentleheat, heat, without without letting lettingititget get too too hot. hot. When thickened remove halfthickened removeititand and continue continue Wh en the themixture mixtureisis half to to beat beatitit away away from from the the heat heatuntil until ititisis almost almostcold. cold. Then Then add add 500 500g.g. (18 (18oz., oz.,4|cups) 41cups)sieved sievedflour, flour, sprinkled sprinkledininaashower, shower,and and 500 (18 oz., oz., 2|cups) 2icups) melted meltedbutter. butter. 500g.g. (18 Fill Fillround roundcake caketins tinswith withthe themixture. mixture. Bake Bakeininthe theoven ovenatataa moderate moderate heat. heat. Cool Cool the the cakes cakes and and fill fill them them with with the the following followingbutter buttercream cream:: Heat (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ! Heat together together in in aa saucepan saucepan I1dl. dl. (6 cup) cup)milk, milk,55dl. dl.(scant (scantpint, pint,2f 2icups) cups)28" 28°syrup syrup(see (seeSUGAR), SUGAR), Z2O. dl. (3(1pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Orgeat Orgeatsyrup syrup(see (seeORGEAT) ORGEAT) and and aa

Quenelles of pike princesse

Quenelles ofpike princesse

pike princesse. euENELLEn Quenelles Quenelles of of pike princesse. QUENELLES DE DE BRocrrEr BROCHET PRrNcEssE - Set the above quenelles on a border of pike PRINCESSE - Set the above quenelles on a border of Pike (see forcemeat FORCEMEATS) with with truffies. truffies. Decorate Decorate the the forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) middle of the dish with asparagus tips. Coat wfth Normande middle of the dish with asparagus tips. Coat with Normande sauce (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). quiche QUICI{E QUICHE -- The The quiche or or kiche, kiche, as as the the word word isis sometimes sometimes spelt, originates in Lorraine. spelt, originates in Lorraine. There are several kinds of quiche. Each region of Lorraine There are sever al kinds of quiche. Each region of Lorraine or Alsace has its own. The name is also used for some custard or Alsace bas its own. The name is also used for sorne custard tarts tarts served served as as aa sweet, sweet, though though the the real real quiche, quiche, that that of of Lorraine, is always served as hors-d'euvre and never for the Lorraine, is always served as hors-d'œuvre and never for the sweet course. sweet course.

f

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QUINTAL QUINTAL boiling boiling water. water. Drain, Drain, and and cook cook them them in in aa vanilla vanilla syrup. syrup. Arrange or timbale, timbale, and and pour pour over over them them the the Arrange them them in in aa dish dish or

vanilla vanillapod. pod.Cook Cookthis thismixture mixturefor foraafew fewmoments, moments,then thenpourit pour it over over 88egg eggyolks yolks in in aa basin. basin. Blend Blend well weil with with aa whisk. whisk. Reheat Reheat the Pour the mixture mixture gently gently without without allowing allowing itit to to boil. boil. Cool. Cool. Pour onto onto 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) butter butter which which has has been been put put through through aa sieve. sieve. Mix Mix well. weil. Keep Keep this this butter butter cream cream in in aa needed. cool place placeuntil untilititisis needed. cool and pipe pipe some sorne through through aa Fill the the cake cake with with the the cream, cream, and Fill forcing-bag over overthe the top. top. Decorate Decoratewith with sugar. sugar. forcing-bag

syrup syrupinin which which they they were werecooked. cooked .. Quince Quincejelly. jeUy.crltr GELÉE DE DE coINGs COINGS-- Made Madewith withan an equal equal weight weight of ielly (see of sugar sugar and and quince quince juice, juiee, like like Apple Appleje//y (see JAMS JAMS AND AND

JELLIES). JELLIES). Quince LIQUEUR. Quinceliqueur liqueur or or ratafia ratafia (quince (quince water) water) -- See See LIQUEUR. Made in the Quince Quince marmalade. marmalade. MARMELADE MARMELADE DE DE colNcs COINGS -- Made in the sameway Apple marmalade marmalade (see (see MARMALADES). MARMALADES). same way as as Apple Quince Quince paste. paste. pAre PÂTE nr DE colNcs COINGS -- Make Make some sorne quince quinee marmalade marmalade in in the the same same way way as as Apple Apple marrnalade marmalade (see (see MARMALADES). MARMALADES). Boil Boil down down to to aa good good thick thick consistency. consistency. Put Put itit on on aa shallow shallow baking baking dish dish and and dry dry in in aa warm warm oven. oyen. Cut Cut the the paste paste into into square square or or rectangular rectangular slices. slices. Dust Dust them them with with crystallised in aa dry dry place. place. crystallised sugar. sugar. Keep Keep in

QUINCE. coINGCOING - Fruit Fruit of ofthe the quince, quince,aa common common tree tree which which QUINCE. tobe beas aswell weil known known as asthe theapple appleand andthe thevine. vine. ItIthas has aatart tart usedto used and astringent astringent flavour, flavour, aa very very sweet sweet smell, srnell, and and cannot cannot be be and eaten eaten raw. raw. It It is is full full of of pectin pectin and and is is used used for for jellies, jellies, jams, jams, mannalade, syrups, syrups, and and home-made home-made liqueurs. liqueurs. (See (See JAMS JAMS marmalade, AND JELLIES.) JELLIES.) AND Quince compote. compote. coMPorE COMPOTE DE DE coINGs COINGS -- Cut Cut ripe ripe quinces quinees Quince into and blanch blanch them them for for aa few few minutes minutes in in into quarters. quarters. Trim, Trim, and

QUINTAL QUINTAL - Name Name of of aa variety variety of of cabbage. cabbage.

Qrrnes(Evereinof, Quinœs (Evereinoff. Truffaut) G e o r ge Truffaut) C o p yr i gh t George Copyright

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W RABBIT. LAprN Small rodent of the hare family, of African RABBIT. LAPIN - - Small rodent of the hare family,- of African origin. There are several breeds of rab rabbit. Thefur fur isis origin. There are several breeds of bit. The sometimes white, sometimes grey, or black and tan, or sometimes white, sometimes grey, or black and tan, or mottled. mottled. The domestic rabbit should be eaten young, when it is from The domestic rabbit should be eaten young, when it is from 3 to 3| months old. A young rabbit catt be recognised by the 3 to J! months old. A young rabbit can be recognised by the following: a short neck, plump knees, and very-flexible iront following: a short neck, plump knees, and very flexible front legs, which can be bent about at will. legs, which can be bent about at will. The warren rabbit, the typical species of wild rabbit, is The warren rabbit, the typical species of wild rabbit, is prodigiously fertile. prodigiously fertile. Fulbert-Dumonteil, the poet of good eating, praised it Fulbert-Dumonteil, the poet of good eating, praised it in these terms: in these terms: 'It provides feast for countryman and labourer. It is the 'It provides aa feast for countryman and labourer. It is the youngster's game. It is present on all festive occasions, be it a is present on ail festive occasions, be it a youngster's game. It suburban wedding or a village christening. Its appetising suburban wedding or a village christening. Its appetising aroma pervades farmhouse and cottage alike.' aroma pervades farmhouse and cottage alike.' The flesh of rabbit is fairly white and somewhat less fattv The flesh of rabbit is fairly white and somewhat less fatty than that ofpoultry. Its flavour depends a great deal on its than that of poultry. Its flavour depends a great deal on its feeding. It is more stringy and less delicate than white feeding. It is more stringy and less delicate than white poultry, but quite as readily digestible. poultry, but quite as readily digestible.

However, sufferers sufferersfrom fromdyspepsia, dyspepsia,hepatitis, However, hepatitis, colitis colitisare are advisedtotoavoid avoidfricassée fricass6e of ofrabbit, rabbit, and advised andailallsimilar similarsaucesaucebasedrabbit rabbitdishes. dishes. based RabbitCoquibus. Coquibus.LAPIN LAprNCOQUIBUS coernrus - -Joint Rabbit bit and Jointaarab rabbit putitit andput foraatime timeininaamarinade. marinade.Sauté Saut6ititvery quickly.Add veryquickly. for Add24 24small imall onions and andthe thesa same numberofstrips of stripsoflean onions me number of leanblanched blanched bacon. bacon. attthese theseingredients. ingredients. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with1Iheaped Fry ail heapedtablespoon tablespoon !V flour, and and brown brown for for aafew fewseconds. seconds.Moisten Moistenwith flour, with 22dl. dl.(i($pint, pint, scant cup) cup) white white wine, wine, aafew few tablespoons tablespoons c1ear scant clearsoup soupand anOthe ttre marinade, strained. strained. Add Add aa large large bouquet marinade, bouquet garni garni of parsley, oi parsley, bay leaves leaves and and savory. savory.Boil Boil for thyme, for 1515minutes. minutes.Put eui400 +OOg.g. thy-., bay (14 oz.) oz.) small small new new potatoes potatoes in in the the saucepan. (14 saucepan. Cover Coverand andcook coo-k for 45 45 minutes. minutes. for Fricassee of of rabbit. rabbit. GIBELOTTE crBELorrE -- This Fricassée Thisfricassée, which isis fricassie. which called gibelore in in French, French, isis made calledgibelolle made with with white white or or red red wine. (See wine. (See below, Young Young wild wild rabbit rabbit engibelolle.) below, en gibelotte.) Saut6ed rabbit proceed rabbit with with curry. curry. LAPIN LAprN SAUTÉ Sautéed sAurf AU lu CURRIE cunnrc -- Proceed as for for Sautéed Sautied rabbit rabbit with paprika, substituting with paprika, as substituting Indian Indian curry curry powder for paprika. Serve for paprika. Serve with powder with Rice Rice àd l'indienne (see RICE). l,indienne (see RICE). Saut6ed rabbit rabbit witb pApRrKA'_ papdka. LAPIN with paprika. Sautéed LAprN SAUTÉ s^lur6 AU AU PAPRIKA

To skin a rabbit, first make two cuts from the abdomen along each thigh to free To skin a rabbit, first make two cuts from the abdomen alongeach thigh to freethe thehindlegs; hindlegs;then tb.enholding holdingthe theanimal animalby bythe thehindlegs hindlegsininthe theright right hand, hand, peel peel off theleft lefthand hand offthe theskin skinwith withthe

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RABBIT RAB BIT (Izrousse) How Howtotoclean cleanand andcut eutaarabbit rabbit (Larousse)

Make an incision as far as the breast

Place Place the the rabbit rabbit on on its its back back and and slit slit open open the the stomach stomach

Make an incision as far as the breast

Empty the intestines into a bowl Empty the intestines into a bowl

ofthe contents of Cut away away the contents the abdomen

Cut ofrthe hindlegs Cut off the hindlegs

frontlegs legs the front rernove the and remove onits itsside sideand rabbiton Lay Lay the the rabbit

out thrownout portionofofthe thoraxtotobebethrown Cut the thorax frontportion thefront Cutaway awaythe

Oivide the rabbit in two

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RABIOLE

RABIOLE

pAr6OU Pottedwild wildrabbit p0t6.PÂTÉ rabbltororpâté. ouTERRINE TERRTNEDE DELAPEREAULAIEREAU _ Potted preparationsare Thesepreparations aremade madewith withboned bonedrabbit rabbitstuffed stuffedwith These with pottedhare porkininthe p6tiofofhare thesame sameway wayasasPotted hareororPâté (see hare(see pork HARE). HARE). proceedasasfor Roastyoung youngwild wildrabbit. rabbit.LAPEREAU LAIEREAURÔTI n6n- -Proceed for Roast (seeHARE). Roasthare hare(see HARE). Roast Youngwild wlldrabblt rabbitsautéed saut6edàilaleminute. minute.LAPEREAU LAIEREAUSAUTÉ sAur6ÀALA ra Young jointthe rtrrNUTE - - Skin, Skin,draw drawand andjoint therabbit, rabbit, taking takingcare carethe the MINUTE bonesdo notsplinter. donot splinter.Season Season with withsalt pepper. saltand andpepper. bones quickly ininvery veryhot hotbutter butterin heivyiron panuntil in aaheavy iron pan Brown ititquickly until __Brown allthe piecesare thepieces goodcolour. areaagood colour. Shake panfrequently Shake the thepan frequently and and ail turn over pieces so overthe thepieces sothat thatthey theyare arecooked cookedail allthrough. through.As As turn soonas asitit isisready, ready, put put the a-ndkeep the rabbit rabbit ininaapie piedish dish~'1d keepitit soon warm. warm. juiceswith Dilute the panjuices the pan with1! l+dl. pint,-jt cup) dl.(i(+pint, cup)white white wine. wine. Dilute Add 1I chopped chopped shallot. shallot. Boil Boil down down the sauceuntil thesauce untilitit isisvery very Add concentrated. Add Add thickened thickened brown brown veal vealstock. stock. concentrated. Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon butter butter and Boil and aa juice. Pour sque€zeof of lem lemon Pour over over the the rabbit. ta-bbit. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with on juice. squeeze chopped parsley. parsley. chopped RABIOLE -- Variety Variety of of kohl-rabi kohl-rabi or or turnip. turnip. RABIOLE

Pieces of Pieces of cut rabbit cut rabbit

RABOTTE or or DOUILLON DOUILLON -- Fruit Fruit dumpling dumpling of RABOTTE of Norman Norman origrn. The The fruit, fruit, mostly mostly apple pear, isis enclosed apple or or pear, enclosed in origin. in aa shortcrust pastry pastry to to make make aa douillette (a priest's douillette (a priest's overcoat), shortcrust overcoat), from which which word word cornes comes its its name. name. It It isis then tfien cooked cooked in in the from the oven. oven.

Joint the rabbit and steep it in a marinade. Cook very slowly Joint the rabbit and steep it in a marinade. Cook very slowly in butter, until tender, 100 g. (4 oz., I cup) sliced onion. 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) sliced onion. in butter, until tender, Brown the rabbit in the same pan. Season with 2 teaspoon Brown the rabbit in the same pan. Season with 2 teaspoon paprika. paprika. When the pieces of rabbit are well fried, sprinkle with I rabbit are weil fried, sprinkle with 1 When the pieces of heaped tablespoon flour, which should take on a golden heaped tablespoon flour, which should take on a golden colour but should not brown. Moisten with f glasiwhite colour but should not brown. Moisten with ! glass white wine. Boil down and add enough clear stock jusi to cover the wine. Boil down and add enough c1ear stock just to cover the rabbit. Strain the marinade and add it to the stock. Dice rabbit. Strain the marinade and add it to the stock. Dice coarsely 150 g. (5 cups) mushrooms mushrooms and in oz., 21 cups) and put put them them in coarsely 150 g. (5 oz.,2t the pan. Cover and cook for 35 minutes. Add 5 tablespoons (6. the pan. Cover and cook for 35 minutes. Add 5 tablespoons (6 tablespoons) thick fresh cream. Keeping the pan coverei, tablespoons) thick fresh cream. Keeping the pan covered, simmer for about 35 minutes until thc rabbit is cooked. simmer for about 35 minutes until the rabbit is cooked. Before serving, add a little more fresh cream. Before serving, add a !ittle more fresh cream.

RACHEL -- See See GARNISHES. RACHEL RACLETTE -- Variety of Swiss cheese cheese fondue, RACLETTE of fondue, speciality of the canton canton of of Valais, made by holding holding a big piece piecebf the of the local cheese fire and scraping scraping off oflthe softened part as it melts. the softened cheese to to the the fire The cheese scrapings scrapings are are eaten eaten with potatoes and with jacket The cheese jacket potatoes accompanied accompanied by Fendant, the heady white wine wine of of Valais.

YOUNG yOUNG WILD WILD RABBIT. RABBIT. LApEREAU LAPEREAU - The The flesh flesh of of this this rabbit is somewhat firmer than that of the domestic rabbit. It rab bit is somewhat firmer than that of the domestic rab bit. It has also more flavour, though frequently it is spoiled by

RACOON. RACOON. RAroN-LAvEUR RATON-LAVEUR - Small Small wild animal, with with longish grey America. It grey fur, fur, living living in in the forests of America. It isis edible and cooked cooked like like wild wild rabbit.

mustiness.

RADISH. RADISH. nlorsRADIS- Plant Plant of of the the Cruciferaefamily, Cruciferae family, ofwhich ofwhich the root edible. Cultivated Cultivated in in China, China, Japan Japan and and the the Indies Indies in in the root isis edible. most most remote remote areas, areas, the the radish radish is is found found now now in in all ail the temperate of Europe. Europe. temperate regions regions of of radish: round, long, long, There are are aa great great many many varieties varieties of . Thgtg pink, and purple. purple. pink, black, black, white white and All hors-d'œuvre with with butter butter Ali the the radishes radishes are are eaten eaten raw raw as as hors-d'euvre

RACAHOUT -- Mixture Mixture of of starches starches which, which, according according to RACAHOUT to Dorvault, must must be be made made in in the following following proportions: proportions : 50 (2 Dorvault, 50 g. E. (2 oz.) each each of of cocoa, cocoa, acorn acorn flour flour and and rice rice flour; flour; 45 g. (I! (l! oz.) oz.) 45 g. ozi;.) flour, 15 15 g. potalp flour, oz.) salep, salep, 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) 250 g. oz)) white white sugar, potato (! oz.) e.(t sugar, g. (-!(* oz.) oz.) vanilla vanilla sugar. sugar. Prepared Prepaied like drinking drinking chocolate. chocolatJ 55 g.

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has also more flavour, though frequently it is spoiled by mustiness. Bhnquette of young wild rebbit. upBnsAU EN BLANeuETTE .Blanquette of young wild rabbit. LAPEREAU EN BLANQUETTECut the rabbit into sections and proceed as for Blanquette of Cut the rabbit into sections and proceed as for Blanquette of lamb(see LAMB). lamb (see LAMB). Bolled young wild rabbit i I'anglaise. LArEREAU sounI,r i BoiJed young wild rabbit à J'anglaise. LAPEREAU BOUILLI À L'ANGLAIsE- Draw the rabbit by making a very small incision L' ANGLAISE- Draw the rabbit by making a very smalJ incision in the belly. Stuffit with a stuffin gd I'anglaisemade from onein the belly. Stuffit with a stuffing à l'anglaise made from onethird veal or ox kidneys, one-third best veal fat or udder, onethird vea! or ox kidneys, one-third best vea! fat or udder, onethird sandwich bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Add I third sandwich bread soaked in milk and squeezed dry. Add 1 egg- to every | kg. (18 oz.) stuffing. Season with salt; pepper egg to every 1 kg. (18 oz.) stuffing. Season with salt, pepper and spices. Having stuffed the rabbit, sew up the opening and and spices. Having stuffed the rabbit, sew up the openirig and truss. Simmer it in salted water for about I hour. Servqwith truss. Simmer it in salted water for about 1 hour. Serve with Caper sauie (see SAUCE). Caper sauce (see SAUCE). Young wild rabbit chasseur, or sautd with mushrooms. Young wild rabbit cbasseur, or sautéed with musbrooms. LAIER.EAU seur6 Atx cHAMprcNoNs, cHAssBUR LAPEREAU SAUTÉ AUX CHAMPIGNONS, CHASSEUR -- Joint Joint the the rabbit. Season with salt, pepper, thyme and powdered bay rab bit. Season with salt, pepper, thyme and powdered bay leaf and cook with mushrooms or chasseur. following thl leaf and cook with mushrooms or chasseur, following the recipcs given under VEAL, Sautied veal chasseur. or with recipes given under VEAL, Sautéed veal chasseur, or with mushrooms. mushrooms. Youlg Youngwlld wild rrbbit rabbit en englbelotte. gibelotte. LAeEREAU LAPEREAU EN EN crBBLorrE GIBELOTTE -This is prepared in exactly the same way as Civet of hare (see This is prepared in exactly the sa me way as Civet ofhare (see HARE) except that white wine is often used instiad of red HARE) except tbat white wine is often used instead of red wine. It is also quite usual to add quartered potatoes or small wine. It is also quite usual to add quartered potatoes or small potato balls to this gibelotte. potato balls to this gibelotte.

and and salt. salt. The The tender tender leaves leaves of ofpink pink radishes radishes can can also also be be eaten. eaten. Raw, Raw, they they are are put put in in salad; salad; cooked, cooked, they they are are used used like Iike spinach. spinach. Pink Pink radishes radishes may may also also be be served served hot, hot, cookid cooked like like new new

turnips. turnips.

Black RADIS NorRs NOIRS -- After After having having been been peeled, peeled, Black radishes. radisbes. RADrs

black and put put to to soak soak in in salt salt for for black radishes radishes are are cut cut into into rounds rounds and 30 30minutes. minutes. The Therounds roundsare arethen thenwashed washed and and served servedin in aa radish radish dish. dish. Plnk RADIS RosEs ROSES AÀr.l LA cntr,c CRÈME-- peel Peel the the Pink radishes radisbesinincream. cream. RADrs radishes andblanch blanchininsalted saltedwater. water.Drain Drainand andstew stewinin butter. butter. radishesand When Ji dl. dl. When they they are are cooked cooked add add the the cream, cream, allowing allowing 3+ (ge-nerous pint, Il cups) cups) cream cream for for every every 500 500 g.ltdoz.) g. (18 oz.) (generous ! pint, radishes. radishes. Boil Boil down downthe thecream cream by byone-third. one-third. Serve Serveinin aa deep deep

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dish. dish.

Glazed RADIS Rosrs ROSES cr.lc6s GLACÉS - peel Peel the the Glazed pink pink radishes. radishes. RADrs radishes, radishes,blanch blanchthern themfor for55minutes minutesininsalted saltedwater. water,drain drainand and

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RAGOOT RAGOÛT cool coolinincold coldwater. water.Toss Tossininbutter butterover overaagood goodheat, heat,sprinkling sprinkling them them with with aa little little sugar. sugar. When When they they are are lightly lightly coloured coloured moisten moisten them them with with sufficient sufficient stock stock or orwater water barely barely toto cover cover them. Simmer Simmer covered, covered, until until they they have have absorbed absorbed all ail the the them. and liquid. liquid. At Atthis this point point the the radishes radishes should should be becooked cooked and well well glazed. glazed. IfIfthey the yare are still still hard, hard, add add more moreliquid liquid and and boil boil down down once once more. more. Pink Pink radises radisbes in in stock. stock. RADIS RADIS RosEs ROSES AU AU JUs JUS -- Cook Cook the the radishes radishes in in salt salt water. water. When Whenthey they are arecooked cookeddrain drain them them and and moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofmeat meat stock stock boiled boiled down down moisten until itit isis thick thick and and brown. brown. Simmer Simmer gently. gently. until Pink Pink radishes radisbes poulette. poulette. RADIs RADIS RosEs ROSES AÀ Il LA pournrrs POULETTE -- Cook Cook the radishes radishes as as above, above, moistening moistening them them with with Poulette Poulette sauce sauce the (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Simmer Simmer gently gently in in the the sauce. sauce.

put them in another Drain Drainthe thepieces piecesof ofmeat; meat;trim trimthem, them, put them in another they were cooked, pot potor orininthe theiame samepot pot-- cleaned cleaned-- ininwhich which they were cooked, and pour over the cover cover them them with with tle the specified specified vegetables vegetables and pour over the sau@, thefat fatremoved. removed. sauce,straincd strainedand andwith withthe gently, for 45 minutes to I Cook Cookcovered, covered, simmering simmeringvery very gently, for 45 minutes to 1 used. Cooking in meat of kind to the according hour hour according to the kind of meat being being used. Cooking in the theoven ovenisisbest. best. putting the pieces of meat Serve or deep deep plate, plate, putting the pieces of meat Serve in in aa dish dish or the boiling hot sauce top. on vegetables the and below below and the vegetables on top. Pour Pour the boiling hot sauce over over all. ail.

(trimming the drained The The method method recommended recommended above above (trimming the drained

pot with the strained and pieces pieces and and putting putting them them in in another another pot with the strained and

dish. In home ie-greasedde-greased sauce) sauce) gives gives a a better-looking better-Iooking dish. In home and the accomcooling, cooking, this tbis complication complication can can be be avoided avoided and the accom-

ragofrtw|rthont panying panyingvegetableJcan vegetables can be be put put directly directlyinto into the the ragoût without pots. changing changing pots. or d l'anglalse' Put Aithitt Method of of cooking cookingfor for ragofrts ragoûts dà blanc blanc or à l'anglaise. Put in a saut6 paD, the the pieces pieces of of meat, meat, cut cut in in pieces pieces as as above, above, in a sauté pan, and chopped alternately of potatoes potatoes cut cut in in slices, slices, and chopped alternately with with layers layers of pepper and put tbouquet garni and with salt Season onions. onions. Season with salt and pepper and put a bouquet garni in in the the centre. centre. quantity to cover Pour Pour over over water water or or stock stock in in sufrcient sufficient quantity to cover good heat, then meat Start cooking cooking on on a a good heat, then meat and and vegetables. vegetables. Start heat for about cover cover and and cook cook in in the the oven oven or or over over aa very very low low heat for about lIli- hours. hours. Serve ragoût. Serve in in the the same same way way as as for for the the brown brown ragofrt. given in the recipe for Rago0t Ragoût ià la la banquiCre banquière -- Ingredients Ingredients given in the recipe for (iee GARNISHES) mixed and bound with garnislr (see Banqiiire Banquière garnish GARNISHES) mixed and bound with good sauce. thick a a good thick sauce. pastry cases, timbales, pies, vol'au'vent' for as filling Used Used as filling for pastry cases, timbales, pies, vol-au-vent. bearded; oysters, bearded; Poached oysters, la cancalaise cancalaise - Poached Rago0t à la Ragoût (see SAUCE). to bind bind (see SAUCE). sauce to Normande sauce shrimps; Normande shrimps; pastry cases, cases, timbales, pies, vol-au-vent, for pastry filling for as filling Used as timbales, pies, vol-au-vent, Used

Ragofits are RAGOOT RAGOûT -- Ragoûts are made made from from meat, meat, fowl fowl or or fish fish cut cut in in pieces pieces of of regular regular shape shape and and size, size, browned browned or or cooked cooked without without or without without an an a@ompaniment accompaniment of of vegetvegetcolouring and and with with or colouring ables. ables. The 'brown' ragofrts, ragoûts, of of which which the the best-known best-known type type is is the the The 'brown' mutton (see mutton or Ragofit Ragoût of ofmutton or Navarin Navarin of ofmutton (see MUTTON), MUTTON), are are prepared prepared by by frying frying the the meat meat lightly, lightly, sprinkling sprinkling with with flour fiour and and adding stock, stock, meat meat juices juices or or water. adding The The uncoloured uncoloured ragoAfi ragoûts - dà blanc,sometimes blanc, sometimes described described as as dà atd I'anglaise, be confused with with blanquettes blanquettes and l'anglaise, which must not be fricassées -- belong to the category of of poached poached food. food. They They fricassies have that created created by by the the addition addition of of have no thickening thickening other than that is Irish these ragofits potatoes potatoes to to their their preparation. preparation. Typical Typical of ofthese ragoûts is Irish stew. are various ragofrts are under the Also included under Aiso included the name name of of ragoûts various bound with garnishes, composed of one or more composed of more ingredients, bound with garnishes, used a white or brown liaison, with a meat or meatless stock, used other and other preparing entrées, embellish fish, fowl, eggs and entCes, or to embellish in preparing (See GARNISHES.) GARMSHES.) preparations. {See those especially those ragofrls, especially that meat meat ragoûts, to note note that It isis as as well well to It (q.v.), are particularly indigestible. indigestible. are particularly roux (q.v.), incorporatitg aa roux incorporating conwith excellent excellent conthose with only those dieticians, only According to to the the dieticians, According ragofrts. should eat eat ragoûts. stitutions stitutions should

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etc. etc. pn cfrnnt-nevn - Celeriac cut RAcoOr DE of celeriac. celeriac. RAGOÛT Ragott of CÉLERI-RAVE - Celeriac cut Ragoût and bound in a in butter butter and stewed in 'pigeon's eggs', eggs', stewed look like like 'pigeon's to look to bound in a (see SAUCE). sauce Cream Cream sauce (see SAUCE). as Ragoût uses as RagoAt àdhbanquiite. Same uses Same la banquière. chestnuts, braised chestnuts, of braised Composed of la cévenole c6venole -- Composed Rago0t ài la Ragoût streaky (lean) bry9o' diced streaky coarsely diced glazed onions, and coarsely onions, and small glazed small (Jean) bacon, with the cooking bound with whole bound the whole fried, the lightly fried, and lightly blanched and blanched the cooking garnish should aocomthis garnish which this meat which braised meat of the the braised liquor of liquor should accom(see SAUCE) sauce Demi'glace rich pany thick, with or with thick, rich Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) pany -- or Madeira. with Madeira. flavoured with fiavoured See CARP, Carp Chambord. Chambord -- See la Cbambord Ragott ài la CARP, Carp Chambord. Ragoût chestnuts, small of braised braised chestnuts, Composed of chipolata -- Composed Rrgott chipolata Ragoût small sausages. Thig chipolata sausages. and mushrooms onio*, $azed onions, mushrooms and chipolata glazed This (see SAUCE) sauce with Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) boundwith which isis bound iagofit, which ragoût, garnish for large cuts of asgarnish used as Madeira, isis used with Madeira, flavoured with fiavoured for large cuts of meat. red or oven-roasted braised braised or oven-roasted red meat. RAGoOT os cRBrBs nr kidneys. and Ragott ofcocks'combs Ragoût of cocks' combs and kidoeys. RAGOÛT DE CRÊTES ET used to garnish poultry, as Thisragoût, ragoA4 used DECOQ coe - - This DEROGNONS RocNoNsDE to garnish poultry, as DE pastry cases, for riee borders, other or vol-au-venr filling for filling for vol-au-vent or other pastry cases, for ri ce borders, cooked in a kidneys cooked andkidneys combs and ofcocks' cocks' combs up of etc., isismade madeup in a etc., with a white (q.v.) bound and court-bouillon flour-and-watei fiour-and-water court-bouillon (q.v.) and bound with a white preparation. of type to the a@ordingto the type of preparation. sauce according brown sauce orbrown or used to accompany This ragoût ragofrt isisused fnancidre - -This Ragottài lalafinancière Ragoût to accompany pies, vol-au' timbales, for filling well as poultry, as and meat meat and poultry, as well as for filling timbales, pies, vol-auis made up of entrCes.It mixedentrées. other mixed andother ienborders bordersand vent,rice It is made up of vent, mushand mushtrufres and kidneys,truffies andkidneys, quenelles,cocks' combsand cocks'combs quenelles, peeled olives and bound with peeled sometimes with completedsometimes rboms,completed rooms, olives and bound (see SAUCE). sauce(see wthFinancière Financidre sauce with SAUCE). See GARNISHES. Godarit - -See RagofitàilalaGodard Ragoût GARNISHES. on nou.lxp A ll RAc'oOrDE cardinel.RAGOÛT i la of lobster Rago&t of lobster à la cardinal. Ragoût HOMARD À LA sliced, cooked mixtureofofsliced, ofa amixture composed of Ragofrtcomposed clnprNlr - -Ragoût CARDINAL cooked bound mushrooms and trufles cooked of slices and lobster, lobster, and slices of cooked truffies and mushrooms bound (see SAUCE). sauce Cardinal very thick with with very tbick Cardinal sauce (see SAUCE). pastrycases, cases, timbales, vol'au-vent, etc' forpastry fillingfor Usedasasfilling Used timbales, vol-au-vent, etc.

(/,arorasse) panfor forragoûts ragofits(Larousse) Round pan Round

the meat, meat, Ctrt up up the 'brown' ragoûts. ragofrts- Cut cooking 'brown' Method of ofcooking Method long' inches)long. cm.(2(2inches) piecesabout about55cm. not,into intopieces ornot, whether whether boned boned or hot smoking hot pan, ininsmoking saut6pan, goodheat heatininaasauté over aagood Brown Brown them themover pinchof sugar ofsugar pepperand and aapinch salt, pepper withsalt, clarified Seasonwith fat.Season clarifiedfat. goodnatural natural preparation aagood givesthe thepreparation (theaddition ofsugar (the sugar gives additionof colour). colour). pouroff ofrthreebrowned' pour arebrowned, piecesof meatare ofmeat As threesoonasasthe thepieces Assoon little, colouraalittle, letititcolour andlet withfiour flourand quarters of fat.Sprinkle Sprinklewith quarters ofthe thefat. meat stockorormeat water,stock Stirininwater, heat.Stir panover theheat. overthe shaking thepan shakingthe calls ragofitcalls ofragoût (q.v.\and, thetype typr-of juice add and,ififthe t garni(q.v.) juice; bouque garni ; iddaabouquet the covered,ininthe Cook,covered, sauce.Cook, garlicand tomatosauce. andtomato for lorit,it,crushed crushedgarlic hour. minutes toto1Ihour. heatfor for4545minutes lowheat oven verylow onaavery ovenororon 759 759

RAGUENEAU RAGUENEAU Ragottil ilalamarinière mariniire- -Composed Composed ininprinciple principleofofmussels mussels Ragoût cookedininwhite whitewine wineand andtaken takenout outofofthcir theirshells, shefs,and andshelled shelled cooked shrimps, bouod boundinina (seeSAUCE). Mariniire sauce sauce(see SAUCE). a Marinière Thisragoût ragofrrisisused garnishbraised usedtotogarnish braisedfish fishororasasfilling fillingfor for tarts,tartlets, tartlets,timbales, timbales, vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, etc. etc.ItItcan canbe befinished finishedoff off tarts, withailallkinds kindsofofsbellfisb shellfishcooked cookedininwhite whitewine, wine.with withtheir their with shellsremoved. removed. shells Ragofrt of prepared ofmolll.lscs. molluscs. RAGOÛTS uco0rs DEDECOQUILLAGES coelrrLLAGEs- - Prepared by bindingshellfish (mussels, oysters, shellfish(mussels, oysters,cockles, cockles,clams, clams,etc.) etc.) by cooked ininwhite whitewine wine and andshelled, shelled,ininaawhite whitesauce saucesuitable suitable 10 to cooked thenature natureof ofthe thedish. dish. the Ragott of ofmllsbrooms. mushrooms. RAGOÛT uco0r DE DECHAMPIGNONS cHAMprcNoNs- -Sliced, Sliced. saut6ed mushrooms mushroomsbound withVelouté boundwith Velouti sauce (seeSAUCE) sauce(see SAUCE) mixed with with cream, cream,or or with with brown brown sauce sauce boiled boileddown downwith with mixed Madeira. The The same same uses usesas asabove. above. Madeira. Ragott Nantua Nantua 1I - Shell Shell 40 40 medium-sized medium-sized crayfish crayfish tails, tails, prwiously cookedininmirepoix (q.v.). Put put them them in in aasaut6 pan nr ..·.."rlll~l" cooked sauté pan with I _tablespoon butter. Saut6 for for aa moment moment over giod over aa good taclles,po,on butter. heat. Sprinkle with with 1 tablespoon tablespoon flour, flour, moisten moisten with wiin 1t tablespoon of of brandy brandy and and cover cover with with fresh fresh cream. cream. Mix, Mix, cook cook tablespoon gentle heat over aa genlle heat for for \0 l0 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring often. often. At At the the last last over add 75 g. (3 (3oz" 75 g. o2.,6 p_o_49{ add tablespoons) Crayjish (see Crayfish buller butter (see moment 6 tablespoons) qUJTqR, Compound butlers) butters) made made with with the the scraps scraps and and BUTTER, shells ofcrayfish. shells Ragott Nantua n II -- Cook Cook the the crayfish crayfish tails tails for for aa moment moment in in RagoÎlt butter, moisten moisten with with brandy brandy and and cream cream and and cook cook until until ilit isis butter, reduced 10 to half quantity. half ils its quantity. reduced (+ pint, Add 22 dl. pint, seant dl. H scant cup) cup) crayfish crayfish pur6e prepared with Add the scraps and and shells shells and and Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauci (seeSndCnl. the Clayfish tail tail ragoût rugofrt àd la la Nanwa (see CRAyFISH) is Nantua (see ls used used to fill pastry cases, fill paslry cases, tarts, tarts, tartlets tartlets and and vol-au-venl. vol-au-vent. Il Ii isis also 10 used to garnish egg to garnish egg and and fish fish dishes dishes of of various various kinds. used Sometimes truffies trufres eut cut in in slices slices or orlittle olive-shaped pieces are Sometimes liUle olive-shaped are ad{ed to to the ragofrt. added tbe ragoût. Off{ meats) naco0r D'ABATS D,ABArs -- Ragofrt of Ragoût of - OffaI (variety meats) ragofrt. RAGOÛT this kind, used as as aa garnish for for braised, oi ovenonerrthis kind, braîsed, poached poached or poultry, roast roast poultry, and and also also to to garnish entrdes el1lrées made with with pastry, is îs made made with with white white offal ol1al (variety meats), brains, and lambs-'or or calves' or without the ca Ives' sweetbreads, sweetbreads, sliced or or cut cut in in dice, with withor addition addition of of mushrooms mushrooms and and trufres, truffies, and and bound bound with brown brown or white or wbite sauce. sauce. cutt in large dice Ragoût à la la perigourdine - Mix foie gras cu dice lrgofi! and the and saut6ed sautéed briskly in in butter, butter, with truffies cut eul in in dicJin diee the same samc way way and and cooked very very lightly lightly in in butter. butter. Bind Bind them them with with conc€ntrated juices concentrated cooking cooking juices of of the the fowl fowl or Or game game to to be be garnished, garnisbed, flavoured l:1avoured with with Madeira Madeira or or some sorne otheiwine. other wine. Used Used as as garnish for for oven-ioasted oven-roasted or or braised braised poultry or game, and and also as as accompaniment accompanimenl to to egg egg dishes dishes bf various kinds, pilaf, pilaf, risotto, risotto, various various borders borders of of garnish garnish and entries entrées made with pastry. madewith . Seafoodragofft. nrlcoOr Seafood RAGOÛT DE DE LANcousrE, LANGOUSTE, cRusrAcfs_ CRUSTACÉS - Small Small slices slices of craurfish, lobster, Jobster, prawns or or shrimps, shelled, shelled, bound bound with a Cream sauce witb a Cream sauce or or White wine wine sauce sauce (iee SAUCE) SAUCE) and and finished finisbed with with Shrimp Shrimp (or (or other other crustacean) crustaceall) butter bUller (see (see BUTTER, Shrimp Shrimp butter). bUller). TaJle'vumc:l -- Heat Heat in in aa small small saut6 sauté pan with with aa few few _!ago0t Trlleyrand tablespoons Madeira, 100 cooked 100g.g. (a (4oz.) oz.)cocks'kidneys cocks' cookedin in flour-and-water court-bouillon,and 100g.g. (4(4oz.) HU'Ui- ......J·"' ... 'IV. court-bouillon, and 100 oz.)mushrooms mushrooms also -water alsocooked cookedininflour-and flour-and-wa tercourt-Ooiittin.nind court-bouillon. Bindwitfr withf .1Of . $. pint, 3j- crrp) cup) chicken ehicken VeloutC Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) miied with cream, cream, strained strained and and with with the the addition of of 22 table_ tablespoons mirepoix mirepoix(q.v.) (q.v.)of ofroot root vegetables vegetablcsand and I1tablespoon tablespoon trufles cut eutininvery verysmall smaUdice. dice. Rago0t Ragoûti illslatortue tortue-- This Thisragortt is the special accompani_ ment ment of ofcalfs calfs head head cooked cooked d la tortue.It tortue. isis comporiC COlll1pOS!~a of quenelles, quenelles,mushrooms, mushrooms,stuffed stuffedolives, sliced slicedtrufres, truffies,lherkins cut cutininsmall smallolive-shaped olive-shapedpieces, pieces,slicbs slicesof oftongue tangueand calf's calf's brain, brain,all ailbound bouod with with Tortue Tortuesauce sauce(ich (richbrown brown sauce saucewith with

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MadeÎra Madeiraadded, added,flavoured flavouredwith withTur/le Turtleherbs, herbs,see seeHERBS) HERBS)and and completed completed with withsmall smallfried friedeggs, eggs,heart-shaped heart-shaped piecesofbread of bread fried friedininbutter butterand andcrayfish crayfishcooked cookedinin ciurt-bouillon(q.v.) (q.v.) these theselast lastIngredients ingredientsadded addedtotothe garnishwhen thegarnish whenit isis being beingset setround roundthe (SeeOFFAL thedish. dish.(See OFFAL ororVARIETY VARIETY MEA TS, CalFs MEATS, Calf 'shead headen enTortue.) Tortue.) Ragoût Rago0tlii lalatoulousaine toulousaine - - Ragofrt used garnishpoultry, usedtotogamish poultry, vol-au-vent vol-au-vent and andother other preparations served servedasaientrées. entries. ComComposedof posed ofchicken chickenforcemeat forcemeat quenelles, quenelles,slices slicesof oflambs' lambs'or or calves' combs and calves'sweetbreads, sweetbreads, cocks' cocks'combs andkidneys, kidneys,mushrooms mushrooms and and trumes, trufres,the thewhole whole bound boundwith (see with Allemande Allemande sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). sAUCE). Ragoût Rago0t of oftrutBes. trufres. RAGOÛT uco0r DE DETRUFFES TRUFFBS - - Under Under trus this name nameisis described described aagarnish garnish of trufles eut oftruffies cutininthick thick slices slicesor orbig bigdice dice and and bound bound with with either eitherRich Rich brown brown sauce sauceftavoured flavoured with with Madeira Madeira or orwith with aaWhite White sauce (see SAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). Ragoût Ragott of vegetablec or orRagoût Rago&t ili la printaniire. RAGOÛT la printanière. ucotrr DE oE _ pRTNTANdnB put inin aa well-buttered LÉGUMES rfculms DIT orr A LA LA PRINTANIÈRE - Put well-buttered sauté pan the saut6 pan the following following vegetables: vegetables: 500 (lg oz.) 500 g. (18 oz.) new new carrots, carrots, 12 12 liule little new new onions, onions, 33 medium-sized artichokes artichokes divided divided into quarters (blanched for into quarters for 55 minutes minutes in in water water with with salt lettuces, trimmed, salt and lemon juice), and and lemon and 22lettuces, trimmed, blanched, blanched, divided divided in quarters and pour over in quarters and folded folded over over as as for for braising. braising. Pour over the cover them. the vegetables vegetables either either water just to water or or white white stock stock just toiover them. Season, Season, and and starl start cooking cooking over over aa good good heat. heit. Cook Cook at at boiling boiling point fOf point for 88 minutes minutes with with the pot covcred, the pot covered, lhen then add add t litre litri (scant pinl, (scant pint 2* 2t cups) cups) freshly freshly shelled shelled peas peas and and 12 12 peeled peeled new new potatpes. Cook potatpes. Cook in in the the oven, oven, covered, covered, for for 40 40 to to 45 45 minutes, minutes. Set Set in in aa deep deep disb. dish. Pour Pour the the cookiog cooking liquor, boiled boiled down down and and enriched with butter, over the enriched over vegetables. This ragoût ragofrt can be be made with all kinds of new vegetables: fresh fresh kidney beans, new new broad broad beans, beans, courgettes (iucchini) courgettes (zucctllDl cut cut in in quarters, asparagus tips, either either white white or green, or green, turnips. cucumbers cut into small chunks, French French beans, beans, new new tuinips. The ragofrts ragoûts sbould be cooked cooked in in earthenware or should be earthenware casseroles casserolesbr fireproof porcelain or bi-metal pots, pots, and served in in the the pOl. in fueproof and served pot.

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RAGUENEAU -- Parisian Parisian pastry-cook .... ,,<:rr,",_f"""'''' described by Cyrano RAGUENEAU Bergerac in his Voyage aux itats de la lune, and again by de Bergerac inhis

Edmond Rostand. Edmond A pastry-cook pastry-cook of of renown, renown, keeping shop near near the the palais, Palais, as as A as was was suitable suitable for for aa shopkeeper sbopkeeper whose sign sign carried carned the the fat as words: Aux Aux amateurs amateurs de de haulte haulte graisse, graisse, his his days days were were spent spent words: happily between between the the supervision supervision of ofhis oven and and the the serviie service of of happily his oven his clientele, c1ienlele, which which was was composed eomposed of of attorneys atlorneys and and lawyers, lawyers, his whom had had slipped in some hungry-looking writers. amgrg whom did he he have have to to begin to to write? History suspects one Why did Béis - an an author author today today completely completely forgotten forgolten -. of having B6is maliciously drawn drawn him him into ioto it. il. maliciously The pdtisserie of of Ragueneau became became aa kind kind of of academy, academy, The wbere the pastries pastries and tarts taris served served as as attendance attendance talliei. tallies. where Ragueneau set set himself himself to to write write aa pindaric Pindaric ode, ode, then tbel1 aa Ragueneau tragedy:: DDon d'Innocents. tragedy on OOlibrius, lib r ius, I'J'Occiseur O c cis eur d' Inno c ent s. He neglected neglected his his oven, oven, neglected neglected his his clients; clients; the the effect effecl on on He hisbusiness businesswas wassuch suchthat th athe hefelt feItconstrained constrainedto toshut shutup upshop. sbop. his uphis hisbelongings into iotoaamiserable miserablelittle lit tlecart, cart,he hesit set Packing up off for fOf the Midi Midi with with his wife. wife. At At B6ziers Béziers he he sought sought out out off Molière,totowhom whomhe heoffered offered Don DonOlibrius. Olibrius.One Onemay mayguess guessthe the. Molidre, responseofofthe thegreat greathumorist; humorist;but butout outof pity he heoffered offeredthe the response ex-pastry-cook aa modest'part modest' part as as aa valet in in his his troupe. ex-pastry-cook Ragueneauwas wasasasbad badan anactor actorasashe bewas wasaawriter writerand andhe hehad Ragueneau resignhimself himselfto thefunction functiooofofaacandle-snuffer. candle-snuffer. totoresign to the Thesefunctions functionshe hecarried carriedout outsubsequently subsequentlyatalLyons Lyonsuntil until These hisdeath, death,leaving leavingas ashis hiswhole wbolefortune fortuneaahat hatwith withiroles holesininitit his andaawashed-out washed-outcloak. cloak.Arnong Amonghis hispapers were werefound foundfour four and hundred and and fifty-six flfty-six sonnets, eight tragedies, seven epihundred fourelegies, Lhalamiums,four thalamiums, elegies, sixty-three odes and nineteen heriic plays. plays.

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760 760 Paella:rice, rice,chorizos UlOrizos(Spanish (Spa rushsausages), sausagc.s).chicken, chicken, Paella: vegelables.lobsters, 1obslers.mussels muss;:lsand andfish I1sh(Restaurant (ReJ/aIlNJrllla Paella.phot. Phol.Nicolasl Ni<"olas) vegetables, la paella.

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RASPBERRY RASPBERRY RAIDIR - Culinary termmeaning rneaningto to sear searaa foodstuffquickly foodstuff quickly RAIDIR - Culinaryterm butteror orother othersmoking smokinghot hot fat. fat. ininbutter RAIL. RÂLE Name of two species of migrant migrant waders, waders, the the RAIL. nArn - Name of two species of rail, or or in in French French 'king of of quails', quails', and and the the water-rail, water-rail, very very rail, inferiorto tothe theformer. former. Prepared like like quail quaiJ (q.v.). (q.v.). inferior

RAISINÉ -- Jam Jam made made by by reducing grape juice or or must must to to aa RAISINf jellied consistency. consistency. Often onen another another fruit is added, principally principally jellied pears. pears. Simple raisin6. raisiné. nustNf RAISINÉ sIMPLE SIMPLE - Choose very sweet sweet grapes, grapes, Simple - Choose very either green green or or black, black, strip strip them them from from their their bunches bunches and and either only the the perfectly perfectly sound sound fruit' fnlÏt. Put Put them them in in aa pot pot over over aa keep only heat, and and crush crush with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Rub Rub through through aa genile heat, sieve, gathering the juice in in aa basin. basin. Pour Pour half halfthis this juice juiee into into aa sieve, pan and cook cook over over aa strong heat, heat, skimming from from nnseCl-om pan rinsed-out time to to time. time. When When the the liquid liquid rises, rises, add aa little little of of the juice juice time reserved in in the the basin, basin, repeat repeat this this each each time time it rises. rises. Do Do not not reserved stop stirring stirring until until the the cooking cooking isis done, done, which which will will be be when when th€ the stop raisiné isis boiled boiled do*n down by by two-thirds. two-thirds. raisind Raisiné de Bourgogne Bourgogne -- Pteptre Prepare the the must must as as described described Raisind de above, add add sugar sugar ifjf necessary, necessary, boil boil down down to to half, half, then then put put in above, fruit (pears, (pears, quinces, guinees, apples, peaches, melon' melon, etc.) etc.) peeled, fruit seeded and and cut cut into into thin thin slices. Cook like the the simple raisini seeded until the the preserve preserve is is so so thick thick that that if if taken between between thumb and until forefinger, it it forms forms aa gluey gluey thread. thread. forefinger,

very small small pinch pinch of ofsugar sugarand and aa very little white pepper. Add Add very 25 g.g. (l(l oz., oz., 22tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Bring to to the theboil' 25 'Assoon soon as asthe themilk milk isisboiling, boiling, put put into into the the pot, pot, which which you 'As 100 g. will have have taken taken off offthe the heat, heat,IOO g. (a (4 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) sifted sifted flour. will Mix. Stir Stir over over the the heat heat with with aa wooden wood en spoon spoon to to dry dry out out the the Mix. dough, dough, exactly exactly as as isis done done for for chou choupastry. pastry. When When the the dough dough isis weil dried, dried, remove rem ove from from heat heat and and add add 33 eggs, eggs, one one by by one, one, and and well 50 g. (2 (2 oz., oz., Icup) Gruydre cheese cheese cut eut in in small srnall dice. dice. 50 'Put the the dough into a forcing-bag fitted fitted with with aa plain nozzle nozzle tin. Brush Brush with egg egg and and and squeeze it into choux on a baking tin. put on top of each a pinch of Gruydre cut eut in in very very little little dice. dice. Cook in a low oven.' RAMEREAU -- Young Young woodpigeon. woodpigeon. For For its its culinary culinary prepreRAMEREAU paration paration see see PIGEON. PIGEON. RAMPION. RAIPoNcE RAIPONCE -- Plant Plant cultivated cultivated in in gardens, gardens, but but also also RAMPION.

growing growing wild wild in in the the fields. fields. The root root of of rampion may may be be eaten raw raw or or cooked. It lt is is The prepared like like salsify. The The leaves Ieaves can be be eaten raw raw in in salad salad or or like spinach. spinach. cooked like See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE RAMPONNEAU -- SCC DAYS. DAYS.

RANCIO -- Red Red ros6 rosé wine of of the the Midi Midi with with Madeira-like Madeira-like RAI\CIO

of taste. This wine is very sweet, and its taste is reminiscent of Spanish wines. Spanish

RAISINS. RAISINS.

RAISINS DE DE MALAGA MALAGA - Made from from dried muscat muscat RAISINS grapes and and eaten eaten as as dessert. dessert. They are are also also used used in in congrapes fectionery as as an an ingredient ingredient of of cakes and in and puddings, and cakes and fectionery cookery to to garnish garnish various various dishes. dishes. cookery

( grated cheese). cheese ). rdpd (grated RÂPÉ -- Abbreviation for fromage râpé RAPE

the raspberry of the Fruit of raspberry bush rnc,Iunolsn -- Fruit RASPBERRY. FRAMBOISE in the cultivated in grows wild in woods woods or which can be cultivated the which grows flavoured fruits. garden. It is one of most delicately fiavoured fruits. of the most jelly, jam, in jelly, ways -- in various ways in various It be prepared in It can can also also be of raspberDistillation of compote, sweet pastry and liqueurs. Distillation

RAITON - Small-sized usually cooked by frying. (See skate, usually RAITON - Small-sized skate, SKATE.) SKATE.) RAKIAlcoholic drink with aa basis eau-debasis of plum or grape eau-dedrink with RAKI - Alcoholic with aniseed vie, mastic' and mastic. aniseed and vie, fiavoured flavoured with RAMBOUR of apples whose Variety of RAMBOURG -- Variety RAMBOUR or or RAMBOURG na me cornes Rambour (Somme) district, where the Rambour from the name comes from they There is fruit ripens in August. There cultivated. This fruit were first first cultivated. they were a Red aa White Rambour. Red Rambour. anda White and

ries results in delicious brandy. France: in France: varieties in the best cultivated varieties The following are the des Merveille des Billard; Merveille de Billard; Perpituelle de Belle Fontenay ; Perpétuelle Belle de de Fontenay; (non' or Pilate Pilate (non(red or Hornet or white); Homet quatre-saisons (red or white); quatre-saisons in the the and in C6te-d'Or, and on the the Côte-d'Or, found on are found clirnbing). The best best are climbing). The July from July available from are available Raspberries are neighbourhood Paris. Raspberries of Paris. neighbourhood of to to October. October.

RAMEKIN. served was served cheese was toasted cheese Formerly toasted RAMEQTnN -- Forrnerly RAMEKIN. RAMEQUIN under tartlets or tartlets are tarts tarts or ramekins are Nowadays ramekins name. Nowadays this name. under this filled however, having, however, this designation designation having, cheese, this filled with with creamed creamed cheese, different regions. in different different regions. different interpretations in Small are with cheese-fiavoured cheese-flavoured chou pastry are made with Small pastries made called are baking dishes are earthenware baking Individual earthenware ramekins. lndividual called ramekins. also called ramekins. ramekins. also called Cheese g. to 500 500 g. Add to FRoMAcE -- Add DE FROMAGE nr.trlequnv DE ramekin I.I. RAMEQU1N Cheese ramekin (18 lied ramekin ramekin called sugar, ca pastry made without sugar, (18 oz.) made without oz.) chou chou pastry pastry 50 g.g. (2 (2 OZ., cup) oz., ~I cup) (see DOUGH, batter),50 pastry (see Gougire batter), DOUGH, Gougère Gruyère dice. cut in in small small dice. Gruydre eut mediumof mediumform of the form tin inin the paste on to aa baking tin on to Pipe the the paste through aa lVl"'U."-C>a.", plain nozzle. Brush nozzle. Brush with aa plain forcing-bag with sized choux, choux,through with very into very cut into top ofeach of each aa pinch of Gruyere cut Put on on top with egg. Put small 15 12 to to 15 for 12 at moderate moderate heat for oven at in the the oyen Cook in small dice. Cook minutes. minutes. The elongated of elongated form of in the the forrn be made made in also be may also The ramekins ramekins may choux. choux. If with aa shaped with beshaped may be they may not available availablethey If aaforcing-bag forcing-bag isisnot spoon. FRoMAGE- DEFROMAGE (otd recipe). RAMEQUIN RAMEQUINDE ramekin nII (old Cheeseramekin 'Take whole or or onion' whole butter,onion, melt itit with butter, 'Takesorne some cheese, cheese. melt pounded, pass the the bread,pass somebread, pounded, salt oversorne spread over salt and and pepper, spread shovel hot.' serve hot.' andserve hot fire aboveititand shovel from from the thehot This book, instruction book, old instruction froman an old extract from recipe,an an extract This recipe, resembles given ininits alphabetical itsalphabetical which isisgiven rarebit, which resemblesWelsh Welsh rarebit, order. order. Ramekin 'Putinin aa RAMEQUIN - - 'Put (Mont-Bry's recipe). recipe). RAMEQUIN Ramekin (Mont-Bry's saucepan pinchof salt,aa goodpinch ofsalt, withaagood glassof Seasonwith milk.Season ofmilk. saucepan 1Iglass

Raspberry: Merveille Raspberry: Merveille des quatre-saisons desquatre-saisons

FRAMBoISES - AUx FRAMBOISES BAvARoIS AUX cretm. BAVAROIS Raspberry Bavarian cream. Raspberry Bavarian creams Bavarian creams asother other Bavarian same wayas This preparedinin the thesame Thisisisprepared (SeeBAVARIAN BAVARIAN pulped raspberries.(See with of pulped withthe theaddition addition of CREAM.) CREAM.) Lineaa AuxFRAMBOISES FRAMBoIsES- - Line RasntN'rlFV cHARLorrE AUX charlotte. CHARLOTTE Raspberry charlotte. (see rzsse(see Charlotte russe forCharlotte fingers asasfor with spongefingers mould with composition charlottecomposition withaacharlotte mouldwith themould CHARLOTTE). Fillthe ofthe Turnout outof the refrigerator. Turn adding the pulp.Put Putininthe raspberry pulp. adding raspberry napkin. withaa foldednapkin. mould covered with dishcovered ontotoaadish mouldon

761 761 AAselection of salad ingredients: lelluce. selection of salad ingredients : lettuce, endives, chicory, tomato, corn salad (Phol and comsalad(Phot. Nicolas\ tomato.beetroot beetrootand

Raspberry: Belle de Fontenay

RASTEGAiS Raspberry compote. compote. COMPOTE coMporE DE DEFRAMBOISES FRAMBoTsEs - - Remove. Remove Raspberry stemsof ofvery veryripe ripelarge large raspberries. raspberries. Put Putininaafruit fruitdish. dish.Pour Pour stems several tablespoons tablespoons boiling boilingsyrup syrup on onthe thefruit. fruit. several Raspberry cream. cream. CRÈME cRiME AUX AUxFRAMBOISES FRAMBoTsEs- - Add Addcooked cooked Raspberry pulp toto custard raspberry pulp custard made made with with aaIittle little arrowroot arrowroot or or raspberry (SeeCREAMS, cornstarch. (See CREAMS, Custard Custard cream.) cream.) cornstarch. Iced raspberry raspberry mousse mousse or pur6e. MOUSSE, or purée. MoussE, MOUSSELINE MoussELINE Iced cLAcIeE À.i LA juice or r,c,FRAMBOISE rRAlrsorsE -- Made Made from from raspberry raspberry juice pulp or pulp GLACÉE (fresh or tinned) like or tinned) like other iced fruit fruit mousses (See other iced pur6es.(See mousses and and purées. (fresh rcE CREA CREAMS AND ICES.) rCES.) ICE MS AND juice or pur,pEDE Raspberry juice pulp. JUS, or pulp. JUs, PULPE DEFRAMBOISES FRAMBoTsEs - - Proceed Proceed Raspberry with fresh fresh raspberries raspberries as as described describedfor for Strawberry pulp(see (see Strawberry pulp with STRAWBERRY). ST RA WBERRY). Raspberry desserts desserts etc. etc. -- See See also also CRÊPES, CREPES, FLAN, FLAN, Raspberry FRITTER, ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES, ICES, JAMS, JAMS, LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, FRITTER, SAUCE, SOUFFLÉS, SOUFFLES, SYRUP, TART. SYRUP, TART. SAUCE, RASTEGAIS (Russian (Russian cookery) cookery) -- See See HORS·D'ŒUVRE, HORS-D'(EUVRE, RASTEGAÏS Hot hors·d'œuvre. hors-d'euvre. Hot

RATON- -Pastry Pastrywith witha acream creamcheese cheesebasis basis.. RATON .. Ratonwith withmacaroni (oldrecipe). macaroni(old recipe).RATON RAroNAUX AUxMACARONI MAcARoNT- Raton Mixtogether together44tablespoons tablespoons(5(5tablespoons) tablespoons)flour, flour,22tableMix tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons)sugar, sugar,10l0lengths (broken lengthsmacaroni macaroni(broken spoons pieces)and into pieces) and44crushed crushedalmonds. almonds.Add Add22whole wholeeggs. eggs.Mix Mix into well.Add Add 44dl. pint,scant dl. (?pint, scant22cups) cups)milk milkand andmix mixagain. again. weIl. Heat11tablespoon tablespoonbutter butterininaacasserole. casserole.Pour Pourthe themixture Heat mixture overit.it.Begin Begincooking cookingon ontop topof ofthe thestove, stirringail stove,stirring over allthe thetime, time, then bake bakeininthe theoyen for20 20toto25 ovenfor 25minutes. minutes.Serve Servehot. hot. then

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RAVIER Smalldish dishvarying varyingininshape shapeand VIER - -Small RA andmaterial, material,ininwhich which hor s-d' euvre are areserved. served. hors-d'œuvre RAVIGOTE Whitesauce, sauce,hot hotororcold, VIGOTE -- White RA cold, which which must, must,asasits its name indicates, indicates, be (SeeSAUCE.) behighly highly seasoned. seasoned. (See name SAUCE.)

RAVIOLI preparation of Light preparation pastaenclosing ofpasta RA VIOLI -- Light enclosing forcemeat forcemeat ofone kindor oranother. another. of one kind The name nameofthis preparation probably of this preparation probably cornes The fromthe comes from fact thefact that inin times past food times past food left left over preparing meals that overfrom from preparing mealson on board ship ship was put into was put into it.it. Until board Until the the beginning beginning of of the the nineteenth century century itit was was called nineteenth called rabiole, rabiole,aa word word meaning meaning somethingoflittle of little value. value. something Ravioli isismade pasta (see (see ITALIAN made with with pasta Ravioli ITALIAN PASTA). PASTA).After After being stuffed stuffed with with various being pieces are various mixtures poached inin mixtures the are poached thepieces salted water, water, moistened moistened with salted with veal veal or orbeef beef stock, stock,and andsprinkled sprinkled with cheese. cheese. with To make make ravioli. ravioli. Roll Roll out pasta To ta very out the the pas very thinly thinly and and cut cutout out with aa fluted fluted cutter with cutter into into rounds rounds or or squares squares about about 55cm. cm.(2(2 inches) across. across. Put inches) Put in in the the middle middle of pieceof each aa piece of each of forcemeat forcemeat about the the size size of about of aa walnut, walnut, moisten moisten the edges, and the edges, and fold fold the the pasta over over like like an pasta an apple turnover. apple turnover. Or: Roll Roll out pasta into Or: out the piece about the pasta into aa piece about 88 cm. cm. (3(3 inches) inches) wide and and as wide as long long as permits. Set as space space permits. Set on on this length ofpasta this Iength of pasta aa row of row of IittIe little balls balls of of forcemeat forcemeat about about 22cm. inch) apart. cm. (i apart. Q inch) Moisten theedges Moisten the edges of pasta and of the the pasta and double double them them over, over, then cut then cut into half-moons half-moons with into with aa fluted pastry cutter. fluted pastry cutter. Or: Or: A A square square sheet pasta may sheet of of thin thin pasta little balls may have have little balls of of forcemeat set forcemeat (t inch) set out out on on itit 22 cm. cm. (i inch) apart, apart, lengthways lengthways and and crossways. crossways. Moisten Moisten the spaces between the spaces between them. them. Coyer Cover with with aa second me size. second sheet sheet of of pasta the the sa same size. Cut Cut out out the the ravioli ravioli with with aa special wheel special wheel cutter. cutter. poach ravioli. To To poach ravioli. Plunge Plunge the the ravioli ravioli into into boiling boiling salted salted utes, according water. water. Boil steadily steadily for for 88 to to 10 l0 min minutes, according to to size. size. Drain dish which Drain the ravioli and gratindish and set set in in layers layers on on aagratin which has has been been buttered and and sprinkled with grated cheese. with grated cheese. Pour Pour aa few few tablespoons tablespoons veal veal or or beef stock stock over over each each layer layer and and sprinkle sprinkle with grated cheese. with cheese. Reheat Reheat or or brown brown according according to to recipe. recipe.

RAT -- Rodent Rodent which which was was elevated elevated to to the the rank rank of of comestible comestible RAT during the the siege siege of of Paris Paris in in 1870, 1870, and and which which isis eaten in certain eaten in certain during regions. The The flesh flesh of of well·nourished well-nourished rats rats can can be, be, itit seems, seems, of of regions. good quality, quality, but but sometimes sometimes with with aa musky musky taste. taste. Rats Rats good nourished in in the the wine wine stores stores of of the the Gironde Gironde were were at at one one time time nourished highly esteemed esteemed by by the the coopers, coopers, who grilled them, (after who grilled them, (after highly having cleaned cleaned out out and and skinned skinned them) them) on on aa tire fire of of broken broken having barrels, and and seasoned seasoned them them with plenty of with aa littIe little oil oil and and pIenty of barrels, shallot. This This dish, dish, which which was was then then called called cooper's cooper's entrecôte, entrec6te, shallot. would be be the the origin origin of of the the entrecôte entrec6te àd la la bordelaise. bordelaise. would

RAT-MORT, CAFÉ CAFE DU DU -* See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF RAT-MORT, BYGONE DAYS. DAYS. BYGONE RATAFIA Liqueur obtained without without distilJing, distilling, by by simple simple RAT AFIA -- Liqueur (see LIQUEUR). infusion (see LIQUEUR). infusion

RATATOUILLE Peel and slice 22 or 3 aubergines and g. and 500 500 g. RAT ATOUILLE -- Peel (1 lb.) Italian marrows (courgettes), sprinkle marrows (courgettes), sprinkle with with salt salt and and (I lb.) Italian leave covered with with a weighted plate plate for for 1I hour. hour. Slice Slice 22 large large leave covered onions, and (l lb.) skinned, deseeded tomatoes. g. (lIb.) 500 g. tomatoes. Slice Slice 2 onions, and 500 peppers very thinly, garlic seeds. Crush Crush 3 garIic peppers very thinly, removing core and seeds. cloves. cloyes. Heat pan, fry heavy pan, fry the Heat lj I~ dl. dl. (t pint, ~3 cup) olive oil in aa heavy Q pint, "up) onion coloured, garlic. Cook add the Cook for for 5 onion until until slightly slightly coloured, add the garlic. minutes, courgettes, peppers and and tomaubergines, courgettes, minutes, then add aubergines, atoes. add a bouquet garni and and atoes. Season Season with salt and pepper, pepper, add cook, hot or cook, covered, for for I1 hour. This dish may be be served hot cold.

To Tomake makeravioli: ravioli: Using Usingaa forcing-bag forcing·bag place place little little balls balls of offorcemeat forcemeatonto onto aa square square of ofthinly lhinly rolled rolled pasta pas ta (Larousse) (Larousse)

Cover each each ball bail offorcemeat of forcemeat with wilh aa second second layer layer of of Cover p-asla and and cut cul out ouI the the ravioli ravioli with wilh aa special special wheel wheel cutter cutter pasta (Larousse) (Larousse)

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REFRIGERATION REFRIGERATION Ravioli Ravioli forcemeats. forcemeats. FARcEs FARCES iÀ navtorr RAVIOLI -- The The fillings fillings for for ravioli arenumerous, numerous, and andmeat meat and and poultry poultry left-overs left-overs may may be be ravioli are used used for for them. them. For For aa classic classic ravioli ravioli the the forcemeat forcemeat should should be be made made with with Daube Daube of of beef beef (see (see BEEF) BEEF) that that has has been been very very well weil cooked, c~o~e~, allowed allowed to to get get cold cold and and minced. minced. The The cooked cooked ravioli raVIOli isIS sprinkled sprinkled with with the the cooking cooking liquor liquor of ofthe the daube. daube. r Mixture 1. 1. Chop Chop finely finely 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) cold cold Mixture braised braised beef. beef. Add Add 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., f;i cup) cup) spinach spinach which which has has been been blanched, drained drained and and chopped, chopped, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., f cup) cup) brain brain blanched, pur6e, purée, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped shallot, shallot, I1 egg, aa pinch pincb of of salt, saIt, pepper and aa little littIe grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. pepper and 1 Mixture Mixture //. Il. Chop Chop finely finely 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) cold cold braised braised or or boiled boiled beef. beef. Add Add 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., Ii cup) cu p) spinach spinach that that has has been been blanched, blanched, drained drained and and chopped, chopped, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz' oz., *i cup) cup) brain brain pur6e, purée, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped onion onion lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., Ii cup) grated grated Parmesan, Parmesan, I1 egg, egg, aa pinch pinch of of salt, salt, pepper pepper and and grated grated nutmeg. Mix Mix well. weIl. Mixture Mixture 11l. III. Chop Chop finely 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., scdnt scant cup) cup) cooked cooked veal. Add 100 100 g. (4 oz., oz., generous generous Ii cup) cup) spinach spinach that that has has been been blanched, drained and chopped, 100 g. (4 (4 oz., ft cup) cup) brain brain blanched, drained (2 pur6e, purée, 50 g. (2 oz., I! cup) cream cream cheese pressed pressed dry, dry, 50 50 g. g. (2 cup) grated grated Parmesan, Parmesan, I1 egg, a pinch of of salt, saIt, pepper pepper and and oz., ftcup) grated grated nutmeg. Mix Mix well. weil. for the IV. Proceed Proceed with with cold chicken meat as as for the Mixture /2. spinach with forcemeat forcemeat with with veal veal above, above, replacing replacing the the spinach with in cooked lightly blanched, drained drained and and chopped lettuce lettuce cooked lightly in

RED RED MULLET MULLET-- SEC See MULLET. MULLET. RED RED NETTLE. NETTLE. fptrusr ÉPIAISE DEs DES MARAIs MARAIS -- The The roots roots of ofthis this plant plant are are edible edible and and can can be be used used in in place place of ofthe the Chinese Chinese artichoke. artichoke.

REDSTART. REDST ART. noucs-QUEUE ROUGE-QUEUE -- Bird Bird of of passage, passage, prized prized as as game. Prepared like like lark lark in in France. France. game. Prepared REDUCTION. REDUCTION. nfoucnoN RÉDuCTION -- Action Action of of reducing reducing the the volume volume of of aa liquid liquid by by evaporation, evaporation, particularly particularly aa sauce, sauce, which which isis reduced reduced to to increase increase the the savour savour and and also also to to give give itit aa thicker thicker consistency. brown sauce sauce which which has has been been reduced reduced is is also also consistency. A A brown more more brilliant brilliant in in appearance. appearance. (See (See SAUCE.) SAUCE.) In In the the U.S.A' U.S.A. the the process reducing is ofreducing is known known as'boiling as 'boiling down'. down'. process of

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thrush. REDWING. REDWING. MAUvIsMAUVIS - Small Sm ail type type of ofthrush.

REFRIGERATION. REFRIGERATION. FRICoRIFIQUc FRIGORIFIQUE -- Low Low temperatures temperatures can can

be be produced produced by by various various means, means, the the simplest simplest being being the the use use of ~f freezing mixtures. These freezingmixtures. These mixtures mixtures have have aa number number of of domestic dOI?estlc uses the preparation preparation of of ice ice creams creams and and water water ices. Ices. uses including including the For For lower lower temperatures, temperatures, it it is is necessary necessary to to use use a a rere-

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frigerator. Refrigerators generally generally work work on on the the principle principle of of frigerator. Refrigerators the the lowering lowering of of temperature, temperature, either either through through the the expansion expansIOn of of

a a gas gas or or the the evaporation evaporation of of a a volatile volatile liquid. liquid. There T.here are are aa gases which can be and gases number of highly number of highly volatile volatile liquids liquids and whlch can be

gas, readily ammonia, carbonic carbonic acid aci~ ga~, readily liquefied, liquefied, for for example, example, ammonia, is give off a gas which All these etc. Ali chloride, etc. methyl methyl chloride, these liquids liquids give off agas whlch IS It th then temperature. It compressed compressed to to raise raise its its temperature. en passes passes through through aa gas. Next, the gas. and liquefies liquefies the absorbs the which absorbs condenser condenser which the heat heat and Next, an expansion expansion valve into itit passes through aa pressure-reducing pressure-reducing valve into an passes through of temperaproducing the the required chamber, thus chamber, thus producing required lowering lowering of temperaand the condenser, and the condenser, into the pumped back back into gas is is then then pumped The gas ture. The ture. the long as as the the as long indefinitely, as repeated indefinitely, is repeated and is begins again again and cycle begins cycle working. kept working. is kept compressor is motor-driven compressor motor-driven by work by These work no compressors. compressors. These have no refrigerators have Some refrigerators Sorne to of solubility solubility to ratio of the ratio upon the dependent upon and are are dependent absorption and absorption In an an water' In and water. ammonia and of ammonia interaction of in the the interaction temperature in temperature part of greater part the of the the greater circulation, the water circulation, by water cooled by absorber cooled absorber pump. in by by aa pump. sucked in had been been sucked as though though itit had liquefies as ammonia liquefies ammonia distiller, passes into into aa distiller, enriched, passes thus enriched, solution, thus Next, the the solution, Next,

butter. g' (5 oz.) chicken livers Mixture V. Z. Pound in a mortar 150 g. Mixture of chopped clove of shallot; 1I chopped chopped shaUot; saut6ed in butter sautéed butter with 1I chopped (4 oz., generous generous t1".rp) g. (4 and a pinch of salt. Add 100 g. garlic and cup) fillet of ofdesalted spinach, blanched, drained and chopped, 1I fillet spinach, desalted with salt, and 1I egg. Season with oz.,| cup) butter anchovy, 50 g. (2 oz., butter and rub well and and rub Mix weil basil. Mix little basil. pepper, grated nutmeg and and aa little pepper, through through aa sieve. for as for sweetbreads as braised sweetbreads with cold braised 21. Proceed with Mixture V/. Mixture spinadr by beetroot replacing the spinach forcemeat, replacing the chicken chicken liver forcemeat, in lightly in cooked lightly and cooked chopped and drained, chopped leaves blanched, blanched, drained, leaves butter. (Il oz., blanched g. (lI cups) blanched o2.,1| flnely 300 300 g. Chop finely VII. Chop Mixture 11 cups) Mixture VII. pan in which has has in which into aa sauté saut6 pan Put into and and well-drained spinach. spinach. Put with stirring with (2 oz., Cook, stirring g. (2 butter. Cook, cup) butter. oz., if cup) been been heated heated 50 50 g. grated little grated pepper and and aa little salt, pepper Season with salt, wooden spoon. spoon. Season aa wooden nutmeg. nutmeg. for aa flour. Sbake Shake for with t] tablespoon tablespoon flour. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the spinach spinach with (6 tablespoons, scant tablespoons, scant good heat dl. (6 heat and and add add 1I dl. moment over over good moment 1CUP) milk. Icup) milk. egg add 1I egg pot from the heat; heat; add from the Take the the pot Bring to to the the boil. boil. Take Bring Mix weIl. well. (2 oz., grated Parmesan. Parmesan. Mix yolk and cup) grated g. (2 yolk oz., t cup) and 50 50 g.

i

1

(steam' gas gas or or methods (steam, of methods number of of aa number by one one of heated by heated and given off solution and the solution offby Here the the ammonia ammonia isis given electricity). Here electricity). by the been had been though itit had as though chamber as in the the enclosed enclosed chamber collects in collects place at at takes place The expansion expansion takes piston-action. The by piston-action. compressed by compressed temperaof temperalowering of causes aa lowering and causes distiller, and the distiller, of the the outlet outlet of the process isis used used This process refrigeration. This with compressor compressor refrigeration. as with ture, as ture,

t

y - See RA RAYSee SKATE. SKATE. See CHEESE. CHEESE. REBLOCHON-- See REBLOCHON

portable stove. stove. RÉCHAUD RfCHAUD -- Small Small portable on they are are on when tbey hot when to keep keep dishes dishes hot designed to Also aa utensil Also utensil designed byelectricity. electricity. flame or or by water, aa flame by hot hot water, heated by the the table. table. ltIt isis heated SECCHEESE. CHEESE. GERARDMER -_ See RÉCOLLET R.ECOLLET DE DE GÉRARDMER

for different different (RECOOK) -- Tbis used for This expression expression isis used REClJIRE RECUIRE (RECOOK) cooked are cooked pastry preparations preparations where where the the mixtures mixtures are kinds of of pastry kinds low bowl atat aa low first time time inin aa bowl the first in in two two operations: operations: the (hence their their biscuits (hence in making makingcertain temperature, certain biscuits temperature,as asisisdone done in themixture mixture with the oven, with time inin the the oven, name), name), and and aasecond second time (alreadycooked) put into special mou mould. intoaaspecial Id. (already cooked) put the to define define the making to sweet making usedinin sweet The The term also used term isis also jelly pointaasyrup orjelly syrupor thedesired desired point to the operation bringing to operationof ofbringing have would have fruit would wateryfruit somewatery whicb ofsorne after the theaddition addition of which after 'uncooked'. become become'uncooked'.

Rechaudwilh candles, and withcandies, rechaud andan aneleclric electricréchaud Récbaud (LaCarpe. Carpe. Phal. Phot.Nicolas) Nicolos) (La

763 763

REFRIGERATOR REFRIGERATOR especially in certain types of domestic refrigerator. In large especially in certain types of domestic refrigerator. In large industrial refrigerators, an intermediate cooler is generally industrial refrigerators, an intermediate cooler is generally used. This may be a system of ventilation non-freezing used. This may be a system of ventilation ororaanon-freezing brine which circulates through the pipes laid in the coldbrine which circulates through the pipes laid in the coldcupboard or refrigeration chamber. cupboard or refrigeration cham ber. Finally, mention must be made of a modern method of a modern method of Finally, mention must be made of refrigeration in which the place of ice is taken by solidified refrigeration in which the place of ice is taken by solidified carbonic acid gas. This is much less bulky than ice and has the carbonic acid gas. This is much less bulky than ice and has the further advantage of producing a lower temperature without further advantage of producing a lower temperature without any liquid condensation whatsoever. any Iiquid condensation whatsoever.

REINDEER.RENNE RENNE- - The Theflesh fleshofofthis thisanimal animal provides provides REINDEER. venison,inferior, inferior, however, however,totothat thatofofthe theroebuck roebuck orordeer. deer. venison, Prepared ininthe thesame sameway wayasasthese (SeeROEBUCK.) theselast. last.(See ROEBUCK.) Prepared (ALA) REINE(À LA)- -See SeeFRENCH FRENCH CULINARY CULINARY NAM NAMES. REINE ES. REINE (Queeo) (Queen) - - AAcategory categoryof ofchicken chickenwhose whosesize sizeisis REINE intermediatebetween betweenpoulet poulet dedegrain grainand andthe thefat fat hen henor or intermediate poularde. poularde. Thename name isisalso given to alsogiven preparation of toaapreparation ofchicken chicken purée, pur6e, The orof of aa mixture mixtureof ofcut-up cut-up chicken chickenwith with mushrooms mushroomi and and or trufres bound boundwith with an an Allemande Allemande sauce sauceor or chicken chicken velouté veloutd truffies sauce. The The name name isis also given to alsogiven to aa thick thick soup soup made made with with sauce. pur6e. chicken purée. chicken REINETTE-- See APPLE. See APPLE. REINETTE REJANESCC GARNISHES. GARNISHES. RÉJANE - See RELACHER -- Culinary Culinary term term meaning meaning to to add add liquid liquid to to aa RELÂCHER pur6e or or sauce sauce to to thin thin itit to to the the desired desired consistency. consistency. purée RELIEFS -- French French term term for for the the remains remains or or left-overs left-overs of of aa RELIEFS meal; food food which which isis not not used used at at table. table. meal; RELIGIEUSE -- This g6teau, which This gâteau, which appears appears to to have have origorigRELIGIEUSE inated in in Paris, Paris, isis made made with with éclairs 6clairs filled filled with with coffee, coffee, inated chocolate or vanilla-flavoured cream, or vanilla-flavoured cream, iced iced with with fondant fondant and and chocolate superimposed one one on on top top of of the the other; other; or or with with choux choux similarly similarly superimposed filled and and iced, iced, rising pyramid one rising in in aa pyramid one on on top top of of the the other. other. filled The éclairs 6clairs and and choux choux are are set set on on aa base base of pastry of sweet sweet pastry The and decorated decorated with piped cream. with piped cream. and The name name religieuse religieuse is is also also used used for for aa pastry pastry made made by by The spreading aa strip puff pastry strip of pastry with aa mixture of puff jam, mixture of apple jam, spreading apricot jam and and currants, currants, and covering covering it with strips of apricotjam of pastry in aa criss-cross criss-cross pattern. in pattern.

Refrigerator (piilips. phot. X) Refrigerator (Philips. Phot. Xl

REFRIGERATOR. Rfrnrcfn.q,rEuR REFRIGERATOR. RÉFRIGÉRATEUR

--

Apparatus, Apparatus, usually usually

made in the form of a cupboard, working by gas or electricity, made in the form ofa cupboard, working by gas or electricity, used to refrigerate and conserve foodstuffs.

used to refrigerate and conserve foodstuffs.

RfGALADE-To drinkd lardgaladeis to drink from a bottle RÉGALADE - To drink à la régalade is to drink from a bottle without letting

it touch the without letting it touch the lips, lips, in in such such aa way way that thatthe the liquid liquid isis poured directly into the mouth. poured directly into the mouth. REGENCE - SCE RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS. RÉGENCE-See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS. REGENCE _ SCC GARNISHES. RÉGENCE- See GARNISHES. REGIONAL COOKING IN FRANCE. cursrxs nfcroNun _ REGIONAL COOKING IN FRANCE. CUISINE RÉGIONALEThe various French provinces have each their particular The various French provinces have each their particular cuisine. However, it should be observed that the dishes with a cuisine. However, it should be observed that the dishes with a regional name are not always authentically and exclusively regionaJ name are not always authentically and exclusively regional. regionaJ. culinary specialities numerous _ Real Real culinary specialitiesare numerousininsome sorneregions regionsof of France. For convenience are France. For convenience these these have have been been treated treated as as aa separate study, giving the principal local dishes and main separate study, giving the principal local dishes and main food products. This information food products. This information will will be be found found under under

Religieuse Religieuse

REMONDOU REMONDOU-- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. REMONTER REMONTER-- Term Termmeaning meaningtotoadd addaacondiment condimenttotoaasauce sauce or orragofrt ragoûttotoheighten heightenits itstaste, taste,or ortotoadd addalcohol alcoholtotoaawine winetoto

give giveititgreater greaterstrength. strength.

ALSACE, ANJOU, ARTOIS, AUVERGNE, BRESSE, ALSACE, ANJOU, ARTOIS, AUVERGNE, BRESSE, BRITTANY,

REMOULADE RÉMOULADE -- Mayonnaise Mayonnaise to to which which gherkins, gherkins, capers, capers, parsley, parsley, spring spring onions, onions, chervil, chervil, chopped chopped tarragon tarragon and and ananchovy chovyessence essenceare areadded. added.

CHAMPAGNE, LANGUEDOC, LANGUEDOC,

BRITTANY, CHAMPAGNE, NORMANDY, PROVENCE. etc. NORMANDY, PROVENCE,etc.

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RESTAURANT RESTAURANT REMOVE.RELEVE RELEVÉ-- Dish Disbwhich, which,ininFrench, French,'relieves' 'relieves'(in (inthe the REMOVE. sensethat tbat one onesentry sentryrelieves relieves another) another)the the soup soup or orthe thefish. fish. sense Thiscourse courseprecedes precedesthe theentrie. entrée. This RENAISSANCE (A (A LA) LA) -- Garnish Garnish of of various various new new vegevegeRENAISSANCE tables,arranged arrangedininlittle littleheaps heapsaround aroundpieces piecesof ofmeat meat served served tables, entrées,generally generallyroasts. roasts. asentries, as

Ferment having having the the property pro pert y of of -- Ferment coagulatingthe thecasein caseinof ofmilk. milk . coagulating Animal rlnnet. rennet. pnfsune PRÉSURE ANIMALE ANIMALE -- This This substance, substance, which which A-nimal cornes from from the the abomasum abomasum or or fourth fourth stomach stomach of of calves, calves, comes and kids, kids, isis used used to to curdle curdle milk milk in in the the cheese cheese industry' industry. lambsand lambs marketed commercially commercially in in liquid Iiquid or or paste paste form form An extract, extract, marketed An (solid most often often used used for for this tbis purposepurpose. (sol id rennet), rennet), isis most PRÉSuRES vfcfrlLes VÉGÉTALES -- Substances Substances conconVegetable rennets. rennets. pnEsunss Vegetable tained inin certain certain plants plants (thistle, (thistle, yellow yellow bedstraw, bedstraw, common common fig, fig, tained etc.) having having the the property pro pert y of ofcoagulating coagulating milk. milk. etc.) RENNET. pnfsuns PRÉSURE RENNET.

REPÈRE -- Mixture Mixture of of flour flour and and egg egg white, white, used used to to stick stick REPTRE

together the the sections sections of of aa decoration decoration or or to to fix fix them them to to aa dish' dish. together For this this latter latter use use itit is is advisable advisable to to heat heat the the dishes (if (if metal) metal) For before sticking sticking on on decorations decorations with repire. repère . before The flour-and-water flour-and-water paste, which is used used to to seal casseroles casseroles The and marmites during during cooking, cooking, is is sometimes sometimes erroneously and marmiles referred to to as as repire. repère. referred RESTAURANT -- A public public establishment where where food food is RESTAURANT not as we know them, is not served. The origin of restaurants, as the very old. In the eighteenth century one could eat only in the at inns, which whicb served at fixed times an equally fixed fixed menu, or at inns, who could the shops of the traiteurs (eating-house keepers) who

food . of food. only sell sell whole pieces of in the the soup in In 765 aa man named named Boulanger, aa vendor of soup In J1765 i'e' restaurants, i.e. of restaurants, Rue Poulies, gave name of the name soups the gave to his soups to his Rue Poulies, sells 'Boulanger sells restoratives, sign: 'Boulanger his sign: on his inscribed on ind inscribed restoratives, and with aa magical he embellished embellished witb which he notice which magical restoratives', aa notice qui stomacho stomacho vos qui joke me ; vos joke in ad me,. Venite ad Latin: Venite in culinary culinary Latin: you whose whose (Come to to me, me, you laboratis vos. (Come restaurabo vos. et ego ego restaurabo laboratis et you.) stomach restore you.) will restore and 1I will labours, and stomach labours, sauces serve sauces to serve Wishing to unable to and unable menus and his menus to augment augment his of corporation of or beca use he the corporation of tbe not aa member member of was not he was ragofltibecause ot ragoûts in feet in sheep's feet traiteurs, he had clients sheep's his clients of offering offering his idea of the idea had the traitiurs,he lawsuit white to bring bring aa lawsuit fail to not fail did not traiteurs did The traiteurs wine sauce. sauce.The white wine the for the against advertisement for tremendous advertisement was aa tremendous which was him, which against him, the won the innovator Boulanger won end, Boulanger In the the end, feet. In his sheep's sheep's feet. and his innovator and that case, decreed that judgement of having decreed Parliament having of Parliament solemn judgement case, aa solemn great sheep's ragoût. Tbis wasaagreat This was not aaragofrt. were not sauce were feet in in white white sauce sheep's feet this triumph; shed to to taste tastetbis Boulanger's to to Boulanger's rushed Paris ru all Paris triumph; ail who extraordinary Moncrif, who ofMoncrif, recommendation of the recommendation onthe dishon extraordinary dish raved served atat had itit served himself had XV himself Louis XV about il.it. Louis raved about not Versailles, gourmand, did didnot realgourmand, who was wasaareal king, who but the the king, Versailles, but sbare generalenthusiasm. enthusiasm. sharethe the general ItIt isis nevertheless Brillatcreated,asasBrillatBoulanger created, thatBoulanger truethat nevertheless true Savarin all forail fortune for commandsaafortune professionwhich whichcommands says,aaprofession Savarinsays, who skill. andskil!. goodfaith, faith,orderliness orderliness and pursue ititwith withgood whopursue After name thename worthyofofthe firstrestaurant restaurant worthy thefirst Boulanger, the Afier Boulanger, was anestablishestablish1783- -an foundedinin1783 Beauvilliersfounded thatwhich whichBeauvilliers wasthat ment 1793, activitiesofof1793, revolutionaryactivities therevolutionary oftbe which, because becauseof mentwhich, its the followedthe Thenfollowed close.Then obligedtotoclose. himselfobliged founder feh felthimself itsfounder restaurant openedinin Simonopened andSimon Maneilleand Barth6l6my,Maneille whichBarthélémy, restaurantwhich 1786 'AuxTrois Frdres TroisFrères sign'Aux thesign underthe thePalais-Royal Palais-Royal under 1786atatthe Provençaux', brothers neitherbrothers wereneither theywere althoughthey Provengaux',although nor 1869,and andit it doorsinin1869, shutitsitsdoors restaurantshut Thisrestaurant Provengal.This norProvençal. was several andseveral Moissonand CasimirMoisson Dugl6r6,Casimir thatDugléré, thishouse housethat wasininthis other ury carried out carriedout century nineteenthcent thenineteenth gleatcuisiniers cuisiniersofofthe othergreat their firstcampaigns. campaigns. theirfirst The have restaurantshave whichrestaurants artwhich culinaryart progressinintbe theculinary Theprogress brought BrillatsaysBrillat'Connoisseurs',says immense''Connoisseurs', aboutisisimmense. broughiabout Savarin, who artistswho manyartists namesofofmany thenames mindtbe 'havekept keptininmind Savarin,'have

introduction of the restaurants' have haveshone shoneininParis Parissince sincethe the introduction of the restaurants. Robert, Rose, Legacque, One One may may cite cite Beauvilliers, Beauvilliers, M6ot' Méot, Robert, Rose, Legacque, the brotLers V6ry, Henneveu and Baleine (of the Rocher de the brothers Véry, Henneveu and Baleine (of the Rocher de

owed their Some . Cancale) Cancale).. Sorne of of these these establishments establishments owed their as: le Veau qui tette, to prosperity to special special attractions, attractions, as: le Veau qui tette, to prosperity to poulette); les Frires iheep's sheep's feet feet (doubtless (doubtless cooked cooked d à la la poulette) ; les Frères to entrCes wfth garlic; Viry, and cod salt to Proiengaux, Provençaux, to salt cod and garlic; Véry, to entrées with dinners; Baleine to the ordered specially to Robert, trufres; truffies; Robert, to specially ordered dinners; Baleine to the fish; Henneveux to the care took to to have have excellent excellent fish; Henneveux to the care he he took . . .' mysterious boudoirs in in the the fourth fourth floor fioor .. .' mysterious boudoirs abolition of corporthe following Revolution, the Under Un der tbe Revolution , following tbe abolition of corporspreading multiplied, restaurants privileges, the and ations ations and privileges, tbe restaurants multiplied, spreading Brillat-Savarin says, 'to good good cheer, cheer, permitting permitting everyone, everyone, as as Brillat-Savarin says, 'to to his appetite, make, make, according according to to his his purse purse or or according according to his appetite,

were the perquisite copious copious or or delicate delicate meals, meals, which whicb formerly formerly were the perquisite very rich.' the of of the very rich.' far-away epoch of this Among Among the the principal principal restaurateurs restaurateurs of this far-away epoch whose name we we may may cite cite the the two two Marseillaise Marseillaise brothers, brothers, whose name 'le Boeuf d Ia founded 'le who founded culinary culinary history history has has not not preserved, preserved, who Boeufà la of the day' To the fashions sign caricatured mode',and whose sign caricatured tbe fashions of the day. To mode', and whose whose establishLegacque, came Feuillants Terrasse des the the Terrasse des Feuillants came Legacque, whose establishfixed-price a up as ended and got difficulties into later ment ment later got into difficulties and ended up as a fixed-price period V6four same In the the sa in the the Palais-Royale. restaurant restaurant in Palais-Royale. In me period Véfour Rocher de at the the Rocher Baleine, at and Baleine, Chartres, and de Chartres, Caf6 de founded de founded the the Café Tasters', of Reynidre's'Jury de Gritnod to host Cancale,was Cancale, was host to Grimod de Reynière's 'Jury ofTasters', neighhis and traiteur, a second-class him declared Car6me Caréme declared bim a second-c1ass traiteur, and his neigbhim. supplanted him. Philipe supplanted bour Philipe bour Hardy,the Cafi Hardy, the Café established the were established niw boulevards boulevards were In tbe the new In the Cafe andthe Bignon, and the Cajë CaJi Bignon, became the later became which later Foy which de Foy Cafi de Café the Café de rue de the rue in the opened in Bonnefoy opened 1802. Bonnefoy in 1802. opened in Aiglais, opened Anglais, Montmartre' boulevard Montmartre. to the the boulevard out to moved out then moved I'Echelle and and then l'Échelle the with the Temple with du Temple Boulevard du the Boulevard on the competed on Bonvalet competed Bonvalet Pdre Galiote; La and by Henneveux directed Bleu, Cadran Cadran Bleu, directed by Henneveux and La Galiote; Père their established their allies established the allies where the Clichy, where de Clichy, Avenue de Lathuile Avenue Lathuile d'Antin, Avenue d'Antin, Rouge, Avenue Moulin Rouge, the Moulin l8l5; the in 1815; headquarters in headquarters Voisin; Vachette-Bribant, Voisin; Paillard, Vachette-Brébant, began:: Paillard, Escoffier began where Escoffier where Restaurant the Riche, CaJi the Paris; de old CaJd the the old Cajé de Paris; the Cajé Riche, the Restaurant to mention. mention. numerousto too numerous others, too Marguery,and Marguery, and others, becoming and becoming changing and arechanging restaurants are old restaurants very old Some very Sorne become'cold pity.Sorne great pity. Some become seemsaagreat which seems 'Americanised', which 'cold 'Americanised', again othersagain 'automatic', others become 'automatic', others become counters'. others buffet counters', buffet 'cafeterias'. become 'cafeterias'. become

restaurant scenes a Paris Behind Bebind thethe scenes in in a Paris restaurant (FrenchGoyernmenf Tourist Ofrce) GovernmentTourisf (French Office)

't65 765

RESTAURANTSOF OFBYGONE BYGONEDA DAYS RESTAURANTS YS parisianeating-houses regrettabletotosee seecelebrated celebratedParisian eating-houses ItItisisregrettable thusdisappear disappear- -ororatatleast leastbecome becometransformed. transformed.French French thus cookinghas hasnothing nothingtotogain gainby bythese thesechanges. changes. cooking Thewine wineshops, shops,the thetrouquets, fiouquets,asasthey thlyare arefamiliarly familiarly - The whereititisispossible possibletotoeat, eat,are arealso alsovery verynumerous numerousinin known, lngwna where Paris. In someof ofthese thesehouses, houses,frequented frequentedby byworkmen workmen and Paris. In sorne and peopleininmodest modestemployment, employment,the thecooking cookingisisexcellent, excellent, people becauseititisissimple simpleand andhonest. honest.ItItisisstill posJible totofind stillpossible findinin because Parissorne someestablishments establishments of ofthis thiskind kindwhere whereone onemay mayregale regale Paris oneself with succulentboiled boiledbeef, beef,savoury savoury pork porkwith *itt caboneself with succulent bageor 'bourguignon 'done "uUoraabeef beef'bourguignon' theold-fashioned old-lashioned way. wav. bage done ininthe (SeeRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS (BRASSERIES (BRASSERIES AND AND CAFÉS) CAFES)OF (See oF BYGONE DA DAYS.) BYGONE YS.)

RESTAURANTS (BRASSERTES AND AND CAFÉS) CAFfS) OF OF REST AURANTS (BRASSERIES FAME. RESTAURANTS, RESTAURANTS,BRASSERIES BRAssERTEs ET nrcAFEs clris D'AUTREFOISD'aurneFors _ FAME. Boeufàdla la modemode - So Socalled called at atthe thetimeofthe time of theDirectoire, Directoire, not not Boeuf in honour honour of of the the recipe, recipe, but but on on account account of its sign of its sign which which in depicted aa fashionably fashionably dressed dressed ox, ox, its itsshoulders shoulders draped arapeO with with aa depicted shawl. This This restaurant, restaurant, inin rue rue de deValois, Valois, closed closed down down in in 1936. 1936. sbaw!. Despite several several ups upsand and downs, downs, itit had had an an excellent excellent culinary culinary Despite reputation. The The banquet banquet inaugurating inaugurating rue rue Antonin-Carême Antonin-Car€me reputation. was held held there there in in 1894. 1894. That That excellent excellent chef, chef, Marcel Marcel Dorin, Dorin, was was its its last proprietor. last proprietor. was Bonfinger -- This This brasserie, brasserie, founded founded in in 1864, 1g64. rue rue de de lala Bonfinger Bastille has has remained remained in in the the same same family family and and altered altered very very Bastille little. Its Its sauerkraut, sauerkraut,lobster mayonnaise and and clear clear spirits spirits have havi lobster mayonnaise little. been the the delight delight of century of aa cent of Parisians. Parisians. been ury of Brasserie des des Martyrs Martyrs -- This This brasserie brasserie was was frequented frequented by Brasserie by Baudelaire, Aurelién Aureli6n Scholl, Scholl, Monselet, Monselet, Gustave Gustave Courbet, Courbei Baudelaire, Claude Monet, Monet, Jules Jules Vallès Vallds and and aa host host of of untalented Claude bohemians that that hung hung around around them. them. Décor D6cor included candelbohemians abra in in the the form form of of caryatids caryatids and artificial artificial fiowers. flowers. abra Br6bant-Vachette -- The The restaurant restaurant Vachette, Vachette, on the corner Brébant-Vachette of faubourg was taken taken over by by Brébant Brebant in the of faubourg Montmartre, Montmartre, was days of of the Second Empire. Empire. Situated Situated on on the corner of days the Second the corner boulevard and faubourg boulevard Poissonnidre Poissonnière and faubourg Montmartre, it it was famous excellent cellar, and the literarv famous for for its its night night meals, meals, excellent literary celebrities celebrities whom whom Br6bant Brébant welcomed welcomed with open arms. He fed them _lo so well weil during du ring the the siege siege of of paris Paris that ia group group of them, !h.-* including Goncourt ind including Renan, Renan, Edmond Edmond de de Goncourt and Th6ophile Théophile .Spartans', Gautier, Gautier, who who called called themselves themselves the 'Spartans', had had a medal medal

engraved engravedininhis hishonour. honour.ItItbore boreananinscription inscriptiondescribing describing how, ring their how,duduring theirfortnightly fortnightlyrendez-vous rendez-vousatatthe therestaurant restaurani 'theywere 'they weretotally totallyoblivious obliviousthat thatthey theywere weredining dininginina acity cityofof two million beleaguered two_million beleagueredsouls'. souls'.AAfine finetoken tokenofofgratitude gratitude for forBrébant, Br6bant,who whodied diedinin1892. 1892. Cadran Cadranbleu bleu- -Opening Open inginin1773 17 7 3on onthe cornerofofrue thecorner rueChariot Charlot and andboulevard boulevard du duTemple, Temple,the theproperty propertysuffered sufferedsomewhat somewhat during duringthe thestorming stormingofofthe theBastille, Bastille, but butthat thatonly onlyenhanced enhancedits its glory.Banquets glory. Banquets and andwedding weddingfeasts feastsfollowed followed one oneanother anotherinin an anunending unendingstream. stream. However, However, ififone onerevolution revolutionincreased increased its itsrenown, renown, another another was was totoquench quenchit.it.In InJune, June,1848, 1848,the therestaurateur, restaurateur. Bonvalet, Bonvalet. installed installedan anartillery artillerybattery (which he battery (which hecommanded) commanded)near nearthe the restaurant. restaurant. The Theviolence violenceof ofthe thecannon cannon shots shots was wassuch such that that the building had to be evacuated. the building had to be evacuated. .beautiful pons,was La LaCibot, Cibot, concierge concierge of ofCousin CousinPons, wasthe the 'beautiful oyster oyster opener' opener'of ofthe theCadran (Balzac). Cadran bleu bleu(Balzac). Café Caf6 Anglais Anglais -- Founded Founded inin 1802 1802by by Chevreuil, Chevreuil, on on the the corner corner of of boulevard boulevard and and rue rue Marivaux Marivaux ('Anglais' (,Anglais, because becauseof of the the Peace Peace of of Amiens), Amiens), itit became became one one of of the thl most most fashionfashionable able eating eating places places in in Paris. Paris. Its Its luxury luxury attracted attracted princes, princes, emperors, emperors, society society favourites favourites and and demi-mondaines. demi-mondaines. Dugléré Dugl6r6 was was one greatest chefs. one ofits of its greatest chefs. The cafe Anglais closed The ca/d Anglais closed on on 1I April, (the building April, 1913 l9l3 (the building was was , due due to to be be demolished). demolished). Suffice Suffice to to say iay that that this this restaurant restauranl was was responsible responsible for for creating creating potage potage Germiny, Germiny, Anna potatoes, Anna potatoes, souffle souffii àd l'anglaise, I'anglaise, sole sole Duglére Dugliri and and chicken chicken d'Albufera. d,Albufbra. ,Grand ItIt isis interesting interesting to to note note that that the panelling of the panelling of the ihe 'Grand Seize' (the private salon Seize' (the salon of of Offenbach's Offenbach,s la la Vie parisienne) isis Vie parisienne) now now in in the the Tour Tour d'argent d'argent restaurant, restaurant, the the father father of of Claude Claude Terrail st proprietor Terrail having married the the daughter daughter of proprietor of of the the la last of the cafe caJi Anglais. Café palais-Royal and Caf6 des des Aveugles -- It It used used to to be be in in the the Palais-Royal and derived derived its name from an orchestra orchestra comprising comprising aa few few inmates inmates of the Quinze-Vingts (Hospital for for the Quinze-Vingts (Hospital the blind). blind). This This used used to to provide rather cacophonie to an cacophonic background background music (more or music to an (more or less)enraptured by no no less) enraptured clientele. clientele. It was was one one of of the the eariiest earliest but but bv by the the arcade the means the only attraction offered offered by arcade cafés caf6s of of the Palais-Royal (then ca lied Palais-Egalite). Palais-Egalité). Palais-Royal (then called Café de Flore -- near the Deux-Magots Deux-Magots (or rather it it is is the the Caf6 (or rather Deux-Magots that that is is near near the the caf6 café de de Flore). Flore). L,Action L'Action Deux-Magots .française was was created created here here during during the the Dreyfus Dreyfus affair. affair. Maurras Maurras /rangaise Bainville and their disciples disciples used used to to meet meet here. here. and Jacques Bainville

Tableofofthe'Grand lhe 'GrandSeize' Seize'atallhe Table the Café Anglais( H (Harltngue) Caf 6, Angais a r I in g ue)

766 766

BYGONE DAYS RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTSOF OF BYGONE DAYS Appollinaire "',"'fJU'JJl1laJ'IVand"a and acrowd crowdofofadmirers admirersand andfollowers followers(among (among thim Andr6 AndréBillyand Billy andAndre AndréSalmon) Salmon)also alsofrequented frequentedit.it.On On55

war, Gide August, 1914, shortlyafter afterthe thedeclaration declarationofofwar, Gidedined dined 1914,shortly ininthis caf6 caféwith withCopeau. Copeau. More Morerecently' recently,Simone Simonede deBeauvoir Beauvoir worked worked inin itit alongside alongsideJean-Paul Jean-Paul Sartre. Sartre. Existentialism Existentialism was was bornhere. here. born Caféde deFoy Foy-- This Thiswas wasatatthe thePalais-Royal. Palais-Royal. ItItentered entered into into Caf6 history shortly after after itit opened when when Camille Camille Desmoulins Desmoulins from it, with with aa leaf stuck in in his his hat, hat, to to harangue harangue the the emerged from Thefollowing followingday dayhe hestormed stormedthe the Bastille' Bastille, crowd. The CaféLemblin umbLin -- Founded Founded by by Perron Perron aa few few years years before before the the Caf6 Revolution. ItIt was was aa very very modest modest caf€ café situated situated at at the the PalaisPalaisRevolution. Royal. Under Under the the Empire, Empire, its its standing standing increased, increased, and and itit was was Royal. here, during during the the Restoration, Restoration, that that several several half-way half-way officers officers here, plotted plotted for for aa time time to to reinstate reinstate 'le 'le Petit Petit Caporal'. Caporal'. Café de de Paris Paris -- The The first first caf6 café of of this this name name was was opened opened on on Caf6 boulevard de de Gand Gand (boulevard (boulevard des des Italiens) Italiens) in in July, July, 1822' 1822. lt It boulevard ran successfully successfully for for 20 20years, years, until until the the proximity proximity of of the the Maison Maison ran dorée enticed its clientele clientele away. It It disappeared disappeared in in 1858' 1858. The The enticed its dorie proprietor of of the the building, building, Lord Seymour's Seymour's mother, mother, ruled ruled the caf6 café had had to to close close every night night at at l0 10 o'clock. o'clock. itrai ttre later, at at the the time of of the the inauguration inauguration of of th-e the Twenty years later, (1878), another another Caf6 Café de Paris Paris was was born' born. It It avenue dL i'Opera (1878), disappeared after the the last last war. disappeared Balzac, Dumas Boulevard de Gand was frequented by Balzac, Dumas the the Boulevard eider, Alfred de Musset Musset and many man y others. others. elder, de avenue de Ail the the elite elite of of the Third Republic frequented frequented the the avenue All de Caf6 de this Café in this I'Op6ra, and several great dishes were created in Diane, la Diane, snipe àd la le Grand, Grand, snipe Louis le oJ lamb Louis shoulder of Paris:. shoulder Therlobster Therall' lobster of ail, Opira, and, most important of aubergines Opéra, occasion on the occasion L6opold Mourier on midor. This was created by Léopold midoi.This Victorien play, Victorien historical play, the historical of the of revival of triumphal revival the triumphal of the Sardou. most the most was the comfortable, this was Café Valois - Modest but comfortable, Caf6 de VaJoisThe monarmonarcaf6s' The Irpl111pnt"rj famous Palais-Royal cafés. all the famous of ail frequented of the at the there at met there Ange Pitou) met and Ange Rivarol and chiits (with Rivarol

1841' in 1841. down in It closed closed down Revolution. Revolution. It with up with bound up closely bound was closely Its destiny destiny was Vari6t6s -- Ils des Variétés Laf6 des The in 1807. 1807' The was associated associated in that which itit was with which the theatre theatre with that of of the be!~mmrlg of the beginning of

caf6 the café performances, the during performances, that, during two linked that, were so so c10sely closely linked two were n,l",t,,,1 " deserted, deserted. completely was r("\lm Undefthe Sicond Empire, itit only closed for l| hours in the morning. and Adam and Alphonse Daudet de L'Isle and Villiers de morning. Villiers frequented this estabwho Irequenlleo were y celebrities celebrities who many the man amo.,g the *et. among Murger, bald Murger, soup. The bald lishment, onion soup. its onion for its famous for lishment, famous tables 'biltets doux' marble tables onthe doux'on dressed the marble scribbled 'billets in black, black, scribbled dressed in to 'shrews'. of his'shrews'. or other otherofhis to one one or theatre and theatre literary and theliterary of both the personalities ofboth Frequented by personalities mature the mature Mendds, the young Catulle Catulle Mendès, theyoung including the worlds, !Dc:lucjinlg Variitis desVariétés cafi des thecafé Baudelaire Banville,the ever-old Banville, the ever-old and the Baudelaire and quickly became aasuccess. quickly success. became Palais-Royal, thePalais-Royal, situatedatat the Caveau restaurant, situated Thisrestaurant, Cavtau- - This hot Drinkinghot was, underground. Drinking indicates, underground. name indicates, its name was, asasits and periodbefore beforeand theperiod there ininthe chocolate creamthere withcream coffeewith orcoffee chocolateor ty pastime.Lit I-l!by during very expensivepastime. wasaavery theRevolution Revolutionwas duringthe 1802,itit haunt.InIn1802, argon favourite eveninghaunt. wasaafavourite atgon lamps, ititwas intoa a turnedititinto proprietor turned became Its proprietor Perron.Its duPerron. became the cafddu paix,then thenla/a restaurant Pavillondedelalapaix, renamedPavillon wasrenamed restaurant whichwas Rotonde, but ititdisappeared 1885' disappeared inin1885. Rotonde,but theCaveau Caveau thatthe Empirethat ItItwas theEmpire andthe Consulate and theConsulate wasunder underthe had clientele' illustrious clientele. itsmost mostillustrious hadits 'witha a restaurant 'with Champeaux 1843asasa arestaurant Classifiedinin1843 Champeaux- -Classified but 1862,but re~)UtatIon gainedcelebrity celebrityinin1862, cooking', ititgained for goodcooking', reputati;nfor garden. wintergarden. because of itswinter onlybecause kindofof wasa akind Restaurant Bourse,was placededelalaBourse, Champeaux' place fr"ttu rortChampeaux, memoryofof thememory haven cherishedthe whocherished provincialswho foritinerant itinerantprovincials havenfor Chamtheir chickenChamcreatedchicken whocreated Catelain,who chefCatelain, Thechef visit.The theirvisit. 1 904. peaux, thereinin1904. careerthere culinarycareer peaux,ended hisculinary endedhis

sign of a hosiery This was originally the Deux-Magots Deux-Magots -- This was originally sign of a hosiery 'deux the magots'or, in othe-r shop in in Saint-Germain-des-Pr6sl. Saint-Germain-des-Prés: 'deux magots' or, in other They are still figures. porcelain grotesque Chinese words, two two grotesque Chinese porcelain figures. They are still

there. there. here which American writers used to AA caf6 café was was opened opened here which American writers used to war. Later the clientele used to stare at the frequent frequentbefore beforethe the war. Later the clientele used to stare at the company in the adjoining cafi de Flore' antics an tics of ofSartre Sartre and and company in the adjoining café de Flore. as,later, did Jean Giraudoux' The frequented Rosny J. J. Rosny frequented it, it, as, later, did Jean Giraudoux, The a short time but were chased away for there were surrealists surrealists were there for a short time but were chased away des beaux-arts. by by the the students students ofl'Ecole of l'École des beaux-arts. of rue de Navarin and rue de Dinochau Dioocbau -- At At the the corner corner of rue de Navarin and rue de the running of the restaurant over took Dinochau Br6da. Bréda. Dinochau took over the running of the restaurant received the most famous jourhe There mother. his from from his mother. There he received the most famous jouras well as poets, and a number nalists nalists of of the the Second Second Empire, Empire, as weil as poets, and a number Goncourt often mentioned the of of celebrated celebrated literary figures. Goncourt often mentioned the food was good and cheap, but place place in in his his JournaL The food was good and but restaurateur', allowed too the'literary nicknamed binochau, Dinochau, nicknamed the 'Iiterary restaurateur', too bankrupt' went He clients. illustrious his to credit much much credit to his illustrious clients. He went bankrupt. on the corner of the street of Divan Divan Lepelletier Lepelletier -- Situated Situated on the corner of the street of used to create quite a stir on restaurant this na-e. the same the same name, this restaurant used to create quite a stir on it. Alfred de Musset frequented people who the of account account of the who frequented il. Alfred de Musset concoction of beer, eau'de-vie went went there there to to diink a a curious curious concoction of beer, eau-de-vie Goncourts, too, found the beer seems that and and absinth. absinth. It It seems that the the Goncourts, too, found the beer inferior. there there inferior. called Charles Drouant Alsatian called an Alsatian In 1880, 1880, an Drouant -- In Drouant Charles Drouant wine and food' sold wine that sold establishment that modest estabtlshment opened aa modest opened and food. periodically were premises the and swiftly and the premises were periodically came swiftly Success came Success place to place moved prospered and The restaurant restaurant prospered and moved to extended. The extended. lunches' which its'Goncourt for fame It acquired Gaillon. GaiHon. It acquired fame for its 'Goncourt lunches' which de blancs' L6on Daudet was an blanc de faihionable blanc the fashionable featured the featured blancs, Léon Daudet was an gave a great deal of thought and who gave gastronome who eminent gastronome eminent a great deal of thought and Unformenus' Unforluncheon menus. the luncheon of the compilation of to-the effort to effort the compilation used to be. they what not are these tunately, tunately, these are not what they used to be. establishment founded an establishment Vachette: an Formerly cafd Vachette: Foyot -- Formerly Foyot founded changed Lacaille' IlIt changed certain Lacaille. by aa certain Tournon, 1802, by rue de de Tournon, in rue in proprietor' new the becoming the new proprietor. Br6bant becoming 1817, Brébant around 1817, hands around hands of the caf6). Later it (His son management of the management took over over the then took son then (His the café). Later it became cafd Foyot' Foyot and became of Foyot and hands ofFoyot passed into into the the hands passed café Fayot. Foyot was sheep's speciality His chef. Louis-Philippe's chef. His speciality was been Louis-Philippe's had been had sheep's M. Lesserteur to M, restaurant to his restaurant sold his poulette. He Hesold trotters àd lala poulette. trotlers Lesserteur valley. Bidvre valley. in the the Bièvre estate in hisestate to his retired to in 1854 1854 and and retired in the famous; the restaurant famous; this restaurant made this senators made of senators clientele of AA clientele years before, Cadoudal many years whichmany establishment inin which same establishment same before, Cadoudal Napoleon' against Napoleon. conspiredagainst Pichegru conspired and Pichegru and Laurent 1894 that thatLaurent Foyot's inin 1894 lunching atat Foyot's while lunching was while IlIt was bomb. anarchistbomb. ananarchist byan woundedby seriously wounded wasseriously Tailhade was Tailhade gourmetdish. dish. classicgourmet Foyotisisaaclassic chopsFayot Vealchops Veal Italian Garchi, this theltalian bythe 1796 by Foundedinin1796 Frascati - Founded Frascati establishment was a gambling den-cum-restaurant-cumJodg-

the boulevard corner of the rue de onthe Standing on inghouse. house.Standing gardens were illuminated itsgardens Vivienne,its rueVivienne, closetotorue Richelieu,close were illuminated virtue, easyvirtue, womenofof easy suppers' women Ice-creams,suppers, night. Ice-creams, atat night. couldbebe gambling saloons saloons- *ailallcould course,gambling and,ofofcourse, firewoiks and, fireworks UU'''J\.. v a l U

.'\.".. 111011<0''',

Frascati's. foundatatFrascati's. found years. It disappeared on forabout about5050years. lastedfor restaurantlasted Therestaurant The It disappeared on gaming houses' suppressionofofgaming withthe thesuppression 1837,with January1837, 1IJanuary house:;, three Maneille,three and Barth6lemyand Maneille, Frires prov€ngaux - Simon,Barthélemy Frères rue upininrue themselvesup setthemselves Durance,set theDurance, brothers-in-law fromthe were Barth6lemy and Simon Louvois. de rue facing Helv6tius Helvétius facing rue de Louvois. Simon and Barthélemy were with remainedwith andremained princeduduCondé Cond6and theprince chefsbybythe employedasaschefs employed the ranthe whoran Maneillewho wasManeille emigrated.ItIt was himuntil untilheheemigrated. him Friresprovençaux. restaurantFrères Provenqaux. restaurant arcadesofof thearcades transferredtotothe wastransferred Direitoire,ititwas theDirectoire, Underthe Under MontheMonnearthe Beaujolais,near galeriededeBeaujolais, Palais-Royal, 3838galerie thePalais-Royal, the theatre. tansiertheatre, tansier two fortwo rememberedfor deservestotobeberemembered provengauxdeserves TheFrères Friresprovençaux The brandade Parisianstotobrandade theParisians introducingthe forintroducing reisons:for importantreasons: IITllnrH-tlll1t suchasas greatchefs chefssuch nurseryofofgreat thenursery forbeing beingthe andfor of-saltcod; cod;and 767 767

RESTAURANTS OF OFBYGONEDAYS BYGONE DAYS RESTAURANTS Hurel, Moisson, Moisson,Dugléré, Dugl6r6,etc. etc. Hurel, By1869 1869the proyengaux had theFrères Friresprovençaux haddisappeared. disappeared. By Frites révolutionnaires r6volutionnaires- - Tavern-restaurant Tavern-restaurant on onthe theboulebouleFrites vardde deClichy, Clichy,opened opened by byMaxime MaximeLisbonne, Lisbonne, former formercomcomvard munist,inin1888. 1888. munist, The clientele clientele were werewaited waitedupon uponby byNapoleon NapoleonIII, III. LouisLouisThe Philippe, Boulanger, Boulanger, or orFloquet, Floquet,depending dependingupon upon how Philippe, how they they liked their theirchipped potatoes. chipped potatoes. liked Grand Café Caf6 -- The The underground underground salons salons of of the thehotel hotelScribe Scribe Grand its home are its hometoday. today. ItItwas washere, here, on on28 28December, December, 1895, 1895, that that are paris, an thefirst first moving moving pictures pictures were wereshown shown inin Paris, anevent the event that that won itit fleeting fleetingfame. fame. Before Before then thenitithad had only only been beenknown known for won for its billiards, billiards, and and afterwards afterwards was wasforgotten forgotten once once more. more. its Grosset6te -- Under Under the the Second Second Empire, Empire, Grossetête (on the Grosset€te (on Grossetête the 'boulevard') did did not notenjoy good reputation. enjoy aavery very good reputation. But people But people 'boulevard') continued to frequent the to frequent the restaurant restaurant because because the thecooking cooking was continued was good. ItIt served served black-footed black-footed chickens (the type chickens (the type sought sought after good. after among the the Bresse Bresse chickens chickens today). today). among (Caf6) -- In Hardy (Café) In 1799, 1799, aa modest modest restaurateur restaurateur of les Halles Hardy of les Halles district, caUed called Hardy, Hardy, opened opened aa café caf6 at at the the corner district, corner of of rue rue Laffitte. A A striking striking innovation innovation of of this this establishment establishment was Laffitte. was that that contained the grill room first grill the first room in Paris. The in Paris. The client client chose itit contained chose his his 'victual', which which was was then then cooked cooked in in front front of of him him on 'victual', on aa silver silver grill set set in in the the white white marble marble fireplace. fireplace. grill The best best kidneys kidneys and and cutlets cutlets of of the the capital capital were were to The to be be found found there, it it was was said, said, as as well well as as andouilles andouilles stuffed stuffed with there, with truffles truffies and and, joints en poultry joints papilloles. 'One en papillotes. 'One had had to to be be extremely poultry ch to extremely ririch to dine chez chez Hardy, Hardy, and and extremely extremely hardy hardy to dine to dine dine chez chez Riche', was aa remark attributed attributed to to Cambacérès. Cambac6ris. was It was was on on the site of café the site cafe Hardy that that the the Maison It Maison dorée dortie was was built. built. (Caf6 du) du) -- This This was was situated situated at Helder (Café at 29 29 boulevard des des Italiens and was the the'rendez-yozs officers and saint-cyriens'. 'rendez-vous of officers Italiens salz t-cyriens'. One of the waiters, Felix, knew the anny army list by heart. Lap6rouse - Rival in its time of Magny, Lapérouse LapérouseLapirouse had soon to open aa second floor floor to to accommodate its c1ientele. to open clientele. Then the rooms were were transformed the rooms transfonned into into private rooms. Gratin Gratin of crayfish Georgette, Georgette, navigator's navigator's woodcock, woodcock, chicken crayfish chicken Docteur and duck Colette Colette succeeded succeeded Cancale oysters oysters and and entrecôtes and entreciltes à d Iamaniire la Villette. la manière de de la Larue -- Restaurant founded in 1887 by Larue, place de la Madeleine, and taken over in 1904 by Edouard Edouard Nignon, one of of the the greatest greatest masters masters of of French cuisine.It cuisine. It vanished vanished after the last last war. Laveur Laveur - This was a boarding house with with an an unpretentious cuisine. The establishment opened opened in the tious but but excellent excellent cuisine. present present rue du Sommerard Sommerard in in 1840, moved moved to to rue pierrePierreSarrazin, then de La La Harpe. Finally, Finally, in in 1855, 1855, itit moved then to to rue rue de to the hands hands of to rue rue des des Poitevins Poitevins where where it it passed passed through the Tante Tante Rose, Rose, sister-in-law sister-in-Iaw of of the the founder, founder, Laveur. Laveur. Gambetta, Gambetta, Poincar6, Poincaré, Millerand, Millerand, Loubet, Loubet, Clemenceau, Clemenceau, Daudet, Daudet, Paul Paul Ardne, Arène, Copp6e Coppée and and Courbet Courbet ate ate there there before before they they became became famous. famous. They They sometimes sometimes paid paid aa return return visit visit to to revive revive memories. memories. Iida on the the corner corner of of the the Léda @estaurant (Restaurant -- Established Established jn in lj97 1797 on rues rues Saint-Anne Saint-Anne and and des des Petits-Champs. Petits-Champs. ItIt closed closed in in 1g52. 1852. Fytton Fulton was was aa frequent frequent visitor visitor when when he he was was experimenting experimenting with on the the Seine Seine in in 1803. 1803. with his his steamship steamship on Talma, Talma, Dumas, Dumas, David David and and G6rard Gérard de de Nerval Nerval also also dined dined there there regularly. regularly. I,e Le Doyen Doyen -- Opened Opened in in its its present present position position in in l79Z 1792 by by Le Le Doyen, Doyen, this this restaurant restaurant was was frequented frequented by by Robespierre Robespierre when when itit was was still still the the small small popular popular cafd café Chez Chez Doyen.It Doyen. It soon soon became became aa rendez-vous rendez-vous for for lovers lovers of of good good food. food. ItItwas ofthe the duellists duellists from from wasfor foraalong longtime timethe themeeting-place meeting-placeof the made up up their their differences differences the Champs-Elysees. Champs-Elysées. Here Here they they made over overcold coldtrout troutand andgreen greensauce, sauce,aaspeciality specialityofthe of thehouse. house. Lucas In 1732, 1732, an an Englishman Englishman called called Richard Richard Lucas Lucas Lucas -- In

Restaurant the Restaurant Le LeDoyen Doyen atatthe the beginning beginning of ofthe nineteenth nineteenthcentury (J.Desmur) centtty (J. Desmur)

opened Id meats opened the first English the first English tavern tavern in in Paris. Paris. He He offered offered co cold meats and plum pudding and plum pudding (self-service). (self-service). In In 1862, 1862, Augis Augis moved moved the the establishment establishment to place de to place de la la Madeleine Madeleine and and called called itit ReRestaurant stlurant Lucas. In ln 1925, 1925, the proprietor, Francis the new new proprietor, Francis Carton, president of Carton, president of the the Societé Societd des des cuisiniers cuisiniers de de France, France. added added his his name name to to that that of of the establishment. the establishment. Magny In 1842, philippe, Magny --In 1842, Magny, Magny, chef chef of of the the Restaurant Restaurant Philippe, rue Montorgueil, set set up up his own restaurant his own restaurant in present rue in the the present iue Mazet. sheep's trotlers poulette; the Its small but excellent cellar; its cellar; its sheep's trotters poulette;the invention, invention, in 'petites marmites' in 1867, 1867, of of 'petites (individual portions marmites' (individual portions presented presented on on toasted toasted bread bread croûtons); cro0tons); aa remarkable remarkable châteaubriand; chdteaubriand; and and aa clientele clientele consisting consisting of of Gavarni, Gavarni, SainteSainteBeuve, Beuve, George George Sand, Sand, Renan, Renan, Goncourt, Goncourt, etc., etc., made made it it the the most famous famous restaurant on on the the Left Left Bank. Bank. Maire -- Opened Opened in in 1865 1865 on on the the corner corner of of boulevard boulevard de de Strasbourg and and boulevard Saint-Denis, its Saint-Denis, it it was was famous famous for for its Mercurey wine, wine, its its entrecôte Mercurey entrec6te bordelaise bordelaise and and its its macaroni macaroni The Goncourts and their their friends it. Périgueux. The Pirigueux. Goncourts and friends frequented frequented it. 1841 on the site of the the Maison dor6e dorée -- This was was opened opened in in l84l Maison on the site of It was was to to have have café Hardy, boulevard boulevard des des Italiens. Italiens. It defunct caf6 been called 'restaurant 'restaurant de de la la Citi'but Cité' but the the public public christened it been christened it Maison dorie dorée on on account account of of its its gilded gilded balustrades balustrades and and Maison balconies. balconies. on two two floors. ftoors. The The was a a luxurious luxurious establishment establishment on It was brothers Verdier Verdier were were proprietors proprietors and and Casimir Casimir Moisson Moisson was was brothers the last last of of its its great great chefs. chefs. No No one one in in paris Paris knew knew better better than than he he the make aa bouillabaisse bouillabaisse and and he he created crea ted the the timbale timbale did how how to to make did Nantua while while he he was was employed employed there. there. Nantua The Maison Maison d'or d'or (another (another name name for for it) it) closed closed down down on on the the The of the the year 1902. 1902. Characters Characters from from Balzac Balzac and Zola last day day of last and Zola supper atthe at the Maison Maison dorie. dorée. are described described having having supper are Marguery -- In In 1820, 1820, aa cafb café called calIed the the Maison Maison Dauphinwas Dauphin was Marguery opened by by Joseph Joseph Dauphin Dauphin on on boulevard boulevard Bonne-Nouvelle. Bonne-Nou,-,:elIe. opened Closed, then then reopened, reopened, itit became became aa soft soft drinks-cum-catering drinks-cum-catering Closed, on I1 August, August, 1877, 1877, aa certain certain MarMarestablishment. Finally, Finally, on establishment. guery secured secured aa lease lease of ofthe the premises. premises. guery Marguery became became one one of of the the shrines shrines of of bourgeois bourgeois gastgastMarguery ronomy with with an an 'up-to-the-minute' 'up-to-the-minute' d6cor. décor. The The cellar celIar was was ronomy sole Marguery Marguery all all but but caused caused sole soleDugldrd Dugléré marvellousand and the thesole marvellous to pale paleinto intoinsignificance. insignificance. to But despite despite the the fashionable fashionable d6cor, décor, the the organisation, organisation, the the But 768 768

RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTSOF OFBYGONE BYGONEDAYS DAYS cafd caféNapolitain,botievard Napolitain, boulevarddes desCapucines, Capucines,that thatLucien LucienGuitry Guitry

to slapped slapped one one of of his his girl girl friends. friends. She She immediately immediately began began to strriet shriek for forhelp, help, whereupon whereupon Guitry, Guitry, taking taking her hertenderly tenderly in in his his is arms, arms, soothed, soothed, 'Don't 'Don 't be be afraid.'I afraid.· 1am am here.' here.' The The anecdote anecdote is place during took incident the since more evocative all the all the more evocative since the incident took place during Paris what what was was called called the the 'Belle 'Belle Epoque'. Époque'. Fashionable Fashionable Paris ice cream witnessed witnessed the the scene scene from from the the terrace terrace of ofthe the famous famous ice cream caf6 café which which had had only onlyjust just relinquished relinquished the the name name of of cafd café de de la la Naples. Ville de Ville de Naples. of The The high high society society of ofParis Paris at at that that time time selected selected the the terrace terrace of the the Napolitain Napolitain as as their their rendez-vous rendez-vous and and there there are are countless countless anecdotes anecdotes about about such'regulars' such 'regulars' as as d'Aurevilly, d ' Aurevilly, Mendds Mendès and and Courteline. Courteline.

restaurant Marguery of plates plates at restaurant Marguery in in JI 896 Mechanised washing washing of (J. Desmur) (1. Desmur)

with the the bourgeois magnificent cellar, together with and celJar, magnific€nt cuisine and restaurant,la wedding feasts which were such aa feature of the restaurant, la Maison Marguery did not survive survive its founder. Palaisthe Palaisat the which opened at Méot Mdot, which M6ot -- The restaurant Méot, an extraordinary extraordinary Royal acquired an 1791, speedily acquired 26 May May 1791, Royal on on 26 of the formerly of M6ot, formerly run by by Méot, reputation. and run owned and It was was owned reputation. It baths of baths around of household Word went around d'Orl6ans. Word duc d'Orléans. household of of the duc 27 and 27 wines and red wines of red 22 varieties varieties of of 22 filJed filled with with champagne; champagne ; of at of at choice of offered aa choice that offered varieties of aa menu menu that and of varieties of of white; white: and least dishes.. least 100 100 dishes the founded the Reynidre founded de la la Reynière Grimod de It that Grimod It was in 1795 1795 that was here here in ' Diner des 'Diner des mystificateurs'. mystfficateurs'. rue MoulinMoulinin rue caf6 opened opened in Mère This suburban suburban café Mire Saguet Saguet -- This to become become began to gate of in 1784. 1784' ItIt began deBeurre near Maine in of Maine near the the gate de-Beurre the quite famous under the famous under weil was quite and was in 1808 1808 and well known known in Charlet, period in Thiers, Charlet, which Thiers, in which the period Restoration. was the This was Restoration. This brothers the brothers and the D6saugiers and Béranger, Gavarni, Désaugiers Raffet, Gavarni, B6ranger, Raffet, Hugo it. Hugo frequented frequented it. particularly adept adept was particularly Mother cook, was an excellent excellent cook, Saguet, an Mother Saguet, 1830, In 1830, udders. cows'udders at . In stewed cows' and stewed rice àd lala Valenciennes Valenciennes and at rice restaurant. tired the restaurant. down the shec10sed closed down tired ofworking, of working,she Palais-Royal thePalaiscaf€atatthe Mille Royal of this this café successof The success Mille Colonnes Colonnes -- The proprietress, Mme. Mme. of the the proprietress, was beauty of the beauty to the allto was due due most most of ofail 'la Belle Limonadiire'('the Belle Limonadière' Romain, ('the nicknamed 'la was nicknamed who was Romain. who beautiful beautiful barmaid'). barmaid'). his 1826,his diedinin1826, man) died uglyman) very ugly But But when whenM. M. Romain Romain(a(avery disappeared. wife Mille Colonnes Colonnesdisappeared. theMille nunand andthe wifebecame becameaanun another Gobelins; another desGobelins; ruedes Mouton wasone one ininrue There was Mouton blanc blanc- -There perhaps (orwas wasthere there perhaps ininrue thetwo two(or Which of ofthe ruede delalaVerrerie. Verrerie.Which Molidre, ofMolière, rendez'vousof ev en aathird?) legendary rendez-vous wasthe the legendary third?)was even wasinin sayitit was Somesay Boileau, LaFontaine? Fontaine?Some andLa Boileau, Racine Racineand was claimthat thatititwas poetslived. lived.Others Othersclaim Auteuil, thepoets whereone oneof ofthe Auteuil, where Racine thatRacine Verrerie that inin the ruededelalaVerrerie ofrue blancof theMoulon Mouton blanc cafls blanccafés Mouton blanc manyMouton composed Buthow howmany composedles lesPlaideurs. Plaideurs.But were century? seventeenthcentury? Parisininthe theseventeenth werethere thereininParis the frontofofthe passinginina alandau landauininfront Napolitain whilepassing waswhile Napolitain- -ItItwas

Marguery atrestaurant restaurant Marguery The'Ebony salon' at The 'Ebony salon'

rethis refounded this Peters, founded American, Peters, An American, No€l Peter's Peter's -- An Noël Princes passage des in the situated It was in 1854. staurant sta urant in 1854. It was situated in the passage des Princes the partnership with with the his partnership of his because of Noi:l Peters Peters because and became became Noë'l and NoEl. Frenchman Noël. Freuchman that itit maintain that Others maintain explanation. Others one explanation. At leleast, that isis one At as t, that his who, on Sdte, of Fraysse Pierre Frenchman, was the was the Frenchman, Pierre Fraysse of Sète, who, on his States) United States) theUnited (after workingas chef inthe working asaachefin France (after return to to France return this created this century,created nineteenth century, the nineteenth of the half of second half thesecond inin the restaurant. famous restaurant. famous gaveexcellent excellent Hegave honours. He with honours. received with was received Monseletwas Monselet chronicles' hischronicles. publicitytotothe the restaurant restaurant ininhis publicity that restaurantthat thisrestaurant wasatat this Curnonsky, itit was According totoCurnonsky, According l'amdricaine. lobsteràdl'américaine. created lobster Fraysse,created Pierre Fraysse, Peters,alias aliasPierre Peters, of 6liteof theélite century,the nineteenthcentury, thenineteenth ofthe Atthe theend endof Paillard - -At Paillard of Carlos of KingCarlos VIItotoKing Edward VII period, from futureEdward from the thefuture thisperiod, this Lotion'), 'HisLotion'), nicknamed'His (whom the courtesans thecourtes Portugal (whom Portugal ans nicknamed archiduc. chickenarchiduc. andchicken duckand stuffedduck enjoy sluffed heretotoenjoy camehere came gateof of thegate nearthe caf6near suburban café PireLatbuile Lathuile-Modest Père - Modestsuburban 1790. in a restaurant into transformed Lathuile which Clichy, Clichy, which Lathuile transformed into a restaurant in 1790. 1814 thereinin1814 headquarters there hisheadquarters establishedhis Monceyestablished General Moncey General there himthere firedatathim ballsfired cannon balls Paris.Some Somecannon ofParis. thesiege siegeof duringthe during with dishwith chickendish famous.AAchicken PdreLathuile Lathuile famous. ofPère nameof madethe thename made him. wasdedicated dedicatedtotomm. heartswas potatoes and artichokehearts andartichoke potatoes 769 769

RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS RESTAURANTS OF BYGONEDAYS

A painting by -Manet and another by Horace Vernet A painting by Manet and another by Horace Vernet perpetuated the fame of this restaurant, which was frequen_ perpetuated the fame of this restaurant, which was frequented by artists, literary figures and carousing bourgeois. tedPetit by artists, literary figures and carousing bourgeois. Maure It was opened on the corner of rue de Seine Petit Maure - -It was opened on the corner of rue de Seine and rue Visconti in the seventeenth century. They say that the and rue Visconti in the seventeenth century. They say that the poet Saint-Amant died there. Saint-Amant died there. poet But there was also a Petit Maure Vaugirard atatabout aboutthis this But there was also a Petit Maure atatVaugirard time. There, one could enjoy the strawbeirie s and petits pois time. There, one could enjoy the strawberries and petits pois that grew in the surrounding district, drink the local white that grew in the surrounding district, drink the local white wine, and eat the home-bred turkeys. It was still the and eat the home-bred turkeys. It was still the wine, countryside. countryside. petits There were numerous Mores: aasign signof ofthe the times times There were numerous Petits Mores: when anything exotic seemed to harbinger success. when anything exotic seemed to harbinger success. Philippe This began as a modest public house in rue Pbilippe -- This began as a modest public house in rue Montorgueil. In 1820 it was serving grilli. Montorgueil. 1820 it was serving grills. Magny wasIn head chef in 1842. From 1848 onwards. the exMagny was he ad chef in 1842. From 1848 onwards, the exchef of the Jockey Club, Pascal, became proprietor, but he chef of the Jockey Club, Pascal, became proprietor, but he was struck by blindness and had to give up the restaurant. was struck by blindness and had to give up the restaurant. Every Saturday at 6 p.m., the 12 members of the Club des Every Saturday at 6 p.m., the 12 members of the Club des grands estomacs used to meet chez philippe. They spent lg grands estomacs used to meet chez Philippe. They spent 18 hours at the table. hours at the table. Pomme de pin - This famous or at least evocative name was Pomme de pin - This famous or at least evocative name was very popular in the eighteenth century. The The wel\-known well_known popular in the eighteenth century. very tavern in the rue de la Juiverie run by Robin Turgis was also tavern in the rue de la Juiverie run by Robin Turgis was also called Pomme de pin. called Pomme de pin. Frangois Villon frequented it (and usually received credit); François Villon frequented it (and usually received credit); Rabelais, another regular client, paid his bills on the spot. bills on the spot. Rabelais, another regular client, paid his This tavern was situated opposite the palais de Justice. situated opposite the Palais de Justice. This tavern was Th6ophile de Viau praised it in 1608 and recommended its Théophile de Viau praised it in 1608 and recommended its 'class'. 'class'. Much later, Sainte-Beuve pronounced it a true .classic Much later, Sainte-Beuve pronounced it a true 'classic tavern'. In the seventeenth century, writers were allowed to tavern'. In the seventeenth century, writers were allowed to drink themselves into oblivion for nothing. This made for drink themselves into oblivion for nothing. This made for excellent publicity and helped establishment to to enjoy enjoy aa excellent publicity and helped the the establishment long period of popularity. long period of popularity. Procope - This, they say, is the oldest caf6 in paris. At all Procope - This, they say. is the oldest café in Paris. At ail events, it is the oldest of the caf6s that still occupy their events, it is the oldest of the cafés that still occupy their original sites; in this case, rue de I'Ancienne-Com6dii. original sites; in this case, rue de l'Ancienne-Comédie. It probably began as an establishment where coffee and ices It probably began as an establishment where coffee and ices were served, but it was original in that for the first time were served, but it was original in that for the first time newspapers were provided for the clientele. The fashion news pa pers were provided for the clientele. The fashion caught on. caught on. The Procope had so many famous patrons that it would be The Procope had so many famous patrons that it would be impossible to mention them all: J.-J. Rousseau, Beaumarimpossible to mention themall: J.-J. Rousseau, Beaumarchais, d'Alembert and Marmontel; then later, Gambetta and chais, d'Alembert and Marmontel; th en later, Gambetta and

hisfriends. friends.There Therewere weremany manyother othercelebrities celebritiesduring duringthe thetwo two his centuriesofits glory. of itsglory. centuries closeddown downinin1914 l9l4and andreopened reopenedafter afterthe theSecond Second ItItclosed WorldWar. War.Medals Medalson onthe thewalls wallsrecall recallits itshistory. history. World Prunier- - Opened Openedinin1872 1872ininrue rueDuphot DuphotbybyM. M.Alfred Alfred Prunier Prunierand andhis (anexcellent hiswife wife(an excellentcook) cook)this thisrestaurant restaurantswiftly swiftly Prunier 'stripes'because wonits its'stripes' becauseofits of itsfirst-class first-class oysters. oysters. won 1897,Emile EmilePrunier Prunierinherited inheritedthe restaurant from therestaurant fromhis his InIn1897, parentsand andintroduced introduced his hisown ownspeciality, speciality,which whichwas wasevery every parents variety of ofseafood. variety seafood. Ramponneat- The TheGrande GrandePinte Pintethat thatformerly occupied the the Ramponneauformerly occupied siteof ofthe theTrinité Trinit6church churchwas wastaken takenover overinin1760 1760by byJean Jean site Ramponneau, or orRamponeaux, Ramponeaux, who previously owned whohad hadpreviously owned Ramponneau, theTambour Tambour royal. royal. The Therestaurant restaurant adopted adoptedthe thename nameof ofthe the the quarter: Aux Aux Porcherons. Porcherons. Its lts renown renown spread spreadwhen whenitit began began quarter: offering white whitewine wine at athalf half the the usual prici. usual price. offering The restaurant restaurant expanded expanded in in 1778 1778 when when itit was wasable able toto The accommodate 600 people. The 600 people. The clientele clientele was was composed composed of of accommodate market gardeners, gardeners, waggoners, waggoners, workers, workers, and andaafew few bourgeois bourgeois market and nobles nobles who who liked liked to to frequent frequent low low company. company. and The tavern tavern disappeared disappeared in in 1851. 1851. Rumour Rumour has has itit that that Jean Jean The Ramponneau abandoned abandoned the the kitchen kitchen for for the the theatre, theatre, but but no no Ramponneau proof of of this this exists. exists. proof pigalle, earned Rat-Mort-This tavern, situated situated in place Pigalle, in the the place Rat-Mort - This tavern, earned its name name on on the the day day aa client client found found aa dead dead rat rat under under one one of of the the its benches. For For aa long long time time itit was was the the rendez-vous rendez-vozs of of the the benches. Independents of politics, literature of politics, literature and and the the arts. arts. Olivier Olivier Independents M6tra wrote wrote his his Valse Valse des des roses roses there. there. Métra R6gence (La) (La) -- FFounded in 1688 I 688 under the the na name of 'café Régence ounded in me of cafi du du Palais-Royal' 'cafi de was rechristened rechristened 'café de la Ia Régence' Rigence, in in 1718. t Z t g. PalaisRoyal' itit was palais-Royal It stood stood on on the the corner corner of of the the former former place place du du Palais-Royal It .improvers' and eventually paris. eventually fell fell under the the pick of the the 'improvers' of and of Paris. It was was this this café cafi Régence Rigence that was was frequented frequented by by Diderot, Diderot, It Rousseau, Bonaparte Bonaparte (who (who used play chess used to to play chess there) Rousseau, there) and and later, Musset, Musset, advocate 'yerte' absinth. advocate of the the 'verte' later, (Caf6) -- Opened Riche (Café) Opened about about 1832 1832 on the corner of rue Le Ricbe Le Pelletier and and boulevard des des Italiens and closed closed in in 1916, Pelletier Italiens and 1916, by which had long since passed which time time it it had passed out of vogue. It reached its Situated near the old its zenith zenith when when Bignon senior senior took took over. Situated Op6ra was done away away with in 1875) 1875) it was frequented Opéra (which (which was by by personalities personalities from from the theatre, literary and art worlds, the world and the the demi-monde. In In some sorne respects respects it was world in in general, general, and aa victim victim of of the the 1870 1870 war. Among Among its its specialities specialities was was sole sole with with shrimps and sauce Riche, Riche, and and Bouzy Bouzy wine. wine. ,

I, r t.\li.\Jt,LT HF !U\II·O\\TAr.

Caf6 Procope. Old engraving

Cabaret CabaretRamponneau, Ramponneau,from fromananold oldprint print (J. (J.Desmur\ Desmur)

Café Procope. Old engraving (J. Desmur) (J. Desmur)

770 770

RHUBARB

RHUBARB

Rocher RocherdedeCancale Cancale- -Opened OpenedbybyBalaine Balaineatat6161rue rueMontorMontorgueil, gueil,this thisrestaurant restaurantwas wasthe thecentre centrefor foroyster oysterconnoisseurs connoisseursatat

ine the Ueginning beginning of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century' cent ury. Grimod Grimod de de lala

Reynidie Reynièrechoie choseititfor forthe thetasting tastingsessions sessionsofofhis hisjury juryinin1808' 1808. The Thesociite Sociétédes desmercredis mercredis(with (withitsits1717exclusive exclusivemembers) members)met met there. there. But Borelsucceeded succeededBalaine. Balaine.He, He,too, too,was wasan anexcellent excellentchef' chef. But Borel the vogue vogue of of Restaurant Restaurant Philippe Philippe was was damaging damaging to to the the the obligedtotoclose closedown downinin 1860' 1860. Rocher. It wasobliged Rocher.ltwas The The characters characters of of the the 'Comidie 'Comédie humaine'all humaine' ail met met at at the the Rocher de de Cancale, Cancale, which which Balzac Balzac himself himself frequented' frequented. The The Rocher menuoffered offeredaaselection selectionofofmore morethan than 200 200dishes dishesand and 50 500r orso so menu The clientele clientele was was advised advised that that 'half 'half bottles bottles were were not not wmes. The wines. servedininthe theprivate privaterooms, rooms,and andthat thatheating heatingwas was extra'' extra'. served washereihat here that the the chef chefLanglais Langlais created created sole sole normande normande in in ItItwas I 1837. 837. Taverne Anglaise - Besides the English ta vern Lucas, there TaverneAnglaise-BesidestheEnglishtavernLucas,thete was another opened in 1845 in route de la Révolte. It was wasanotheropenedin1845inroutedelaR6volte.Itwas to rue rue ie de Richelieu Richelieu in in 1870 1870 and and was was the the paradise paradise of of moved to moved lovers of of roast roast beef beef served served with with Yorkshire Yorkshire pudding pudding and and lovers rhubarb tart. tart. A A butcher butcher took took over over the the establishment establishment in in 1876. 1876. rhubarb People used used to to queue queue to to eat eat there there on on feast days days and and Sundays' Sundays. People over Founded in in 1798 1798 by by Velloni, Velloni, then then taken taken over by by Tortoni -- Founded fotoni the establishment establishment after after his head head clerk, clerk, Tortoni, who called the his as aa as well himself. Tortoni Tortoni was was an an ice ice cream cream maker maker as weil as himself. 'glazed meats' 1830 was famous for for his his 'glazed meats, restaurateur, and in 1830 escalopes' ' papillotes of of leveret and his his salmon escalopes'. his papillotes celebthe celebboulevard: the Tortoni's was on the the boulevard: was the restaurant on iortoni's the appraised the de Beauvoir, appraised the day, led led by by Roger de rities of the famous the famous from the passets-by through their lorgnettes from pretty passers-by terrace.

Paris Restaurant d'Argent,Paris Tourd'Argent, RestaurantTour Ofice) (French TouristOffice) (FrenchGovernmenl Government Tourisr

certain bya acertain 1582by Tour openedinin1582 Restaurant opened d'argent- - Restaurant Tourd'argent Paris' Rourtaud oldestininParis. theoldest certainlythe andcertainly Rourtaud and first thefirst thatthe piethere; there;that ItItisissaid heronpie iVate at.a aheron HenriIV thatHenri saidthat the praisedthe S6vign6praised forks Mme.dedeSévigné thatMme. there;that usedthere; wereused forkswere there... Mussetthere meetMusset chocolate; ''' usedtotomeet Sandused GeorgeSand thatGeorge chocolate;that the eatthe wenttotoeat And centurywent nineteenthcentury thenineteenth 6liteofofthe theélite Andailallthe do just still may one as of the great Frédéric, just as one may still do canard au sang Fr6d6ric, great the of au sang canard today. today. cafd thecafé proprietorofofthe Véfour theproprietor nameofofthe thename wasthe V6fourwas V6iour- -Véfour reputation' culinaryreputation. dedeChartres excellentculinary enjoyedananexcellent whichenjoyed Chartreswhich changedtotothe waschanged Inln1872, establishmentwas ttt.establishment nameofofthe thename 1872,the lhe chicken Grand Reynidre,itsitschicken accordingtotolalaReynière, and,according Vdfourand, GrandVéfour fricassée suPerb. wassuperb. Marengowas fricassieà dlalaMarengo I'Europe cafidedel'Europe One boughtthethecafé V6fourbought brothersVéfour thebrothers Oneofofthe (also a restaurant' intoa restaurant. madeit itinto andmade (alsoatatthe Palais-Royal)and thePalais-Royal) It Itsurvived The the 'Petit nicknamedit itthe'Petit publicnicknamed Thepublic 1920. until1920. surviveduntil Grand the made '. The grea t chef vier had made the Grand Véfour had RaymondOliOlivier great chefRaymond Vdfour'.The Véfour fashionable again. fashionableagain. V ifour

V6ry - V6ry came to Paris from the Meuse valley and Véry - Véry came to Paris from the Meuse valley and started his career as a kitchen boy. He turned out to be a started his career as a kitchen boy. He turned out to be a remarkable chef and opened a restaurant at the Tuileries, the remarkable chef and opened a restaurant at the Tuileries, the Mme' terrasse des Feuillanlt. Dnroc, who was in love with was in love which with Mme. terrasse des Feuillants. Duroc,ofwho was influence, his support lent him the V6ry, Véry, lent him the support of his influence, which was enonnous. enormous. Very bought three arcades at the Palais-Royal and InIn 1808, 1808, Véry bought three arcades at the Palais-Royal and SucCess came rapidly' 'Impeccable d6cor' tirere.moved moved there. Success came rapidly. 'Impeccable décor, of the clientele verdict unanimous the cuisine,'was exquisite exquisite cuisine,' was the unanimous verdict of the clientele rewas Balzac there' Empire. Fragonard died ,rtd", under the the Empire. Fragonard lunch died there there. by Balzac was rehis publisher offered a Gargantuan tu"iantty luctantly offered a Gargantuan lunch there by his publisher Werdet. Werdet. Vdry perished when a prix fixd was inThe The restaurant restaurant Véry perished when a prix fixé was introduced. troduced. Labiche is entitled: 'Un gargon dc chez Vdry" AA sketch sketch-of of Labiche is entitled: 'Un garçon de chez Véry'. famous for its Burgundy and Bordeaux A cellar Voisin and Bordeaux Voisin -- A cellar famous for its Burgundy its saddle Goncourts; Zola,the Daudet, of clientele wines; Goncourts; its saddle wines; its its clientele of Daudet, Zola, the (Choron)' chef famous a gras; and its pdti de foie lamb; of of lamb; its pâté de foie gras; and a famous chef (Choron), Saintrue ioison, at the corner of the restaurant assured assured the restaurant Voison, at the corner of rue Saintand rue Cambon, a long and successful reputation' Honor6 Honoré and rue Cambon, a long andbutcher, successful reputation. supplied Roos, Commune, the English Under Under the the Commune, the English butcher, Roos, supplied Zoolog4cal the game from and finest beef the with Voisin from the Zoological Voisin with the finest beef and gameArsdne on a Houssaye used to dine with Gardens. Gardens. Goncourt Goncourt used to dine with Arsène Houssaye on a elephant pudding. famous famous elephant pudding. This caf6, near the Od6on, had its hour Voltaire(CafQ Odéon,Ithad hour Voltaire (Café) -- This café, near theEmpire' famous wasits Restoration and the thi glory under of of glory under the Restoration and the Empire. It was famous there meet to and Jules Vallds used Gambetta and for-its;eat. Jules Vallès used to meet there for its meaL Gambetta out of the ProcoPe. came they when when they came out of the Procope. the Second World War' after the It disappeared disappeared after It Second World War. Second stomBoNNET HONEYCOMB. or RETICULUM RETICULUM or HONEYCOMB. BONNET -- Second stomruminants. the of ach ach of the ruminants. eaten after midnight mass on Supper eaten REVEILLON -- Supper RÉVEILLON after midnight mass on by extension, the supper eaten on Saint and, by Eve and, Christmas Eve Christmas extension, the supper moment eaten on of Saint the (New Year's Eve) at the night (New Sylvester's night Sylvester's Year's Eve) at the moment of the (See FESTM COOKERY') dati. of change of date. (See FESTIVE COOKERY.) "h"ng" French culinary term describing the (FAIRE) -- French REVENIR (FAIRE) REVENIR culinary term describing the various cookery ingredients in butter' fat browning various of browning action of action cookery ingredients in butter, fat or oil. oroil. meat or fish is to seal and render browningmeat of browning object of Theobject The or fish is to seal and render cook it' When complete cooking notlo butnot exterior, but theexterior, firmthe finn to cook il. When complete cooking used are saut6 for meat and words the operation,the thisoperation, fotio*t this follows words used are sauté for meat and vegetables. forvegetables. or fondrefor dtuverorfondre étuver replace green termmeaningto cookeryterm French REVERDIRREVERDIR - French cookery meaning to replace green has been lost in blanching' The use whichhas vegetableswhich colourininvegetables colour been lost in blanching.colouring The use insoluble chlorophyl,ananinsoluble (inicnforms formschlorophyl, ofoicopper (which colouring metallic "opp.. the of because abandonedbecause almostabandoned beenalmost hasbeen matter) has matter) of the metallic the food, and in the canning to it communicated which taste taste which it communicated to the food, and in the canning green is used for this purpose' spinachgreen industryspinach industry is used for this purpose. Excellent wines; most of vINsDEnB- -Excellent RHIN,VINS WINES. RIIINE RJDNE WINES. RHIN, wines; most of (See WINE.) white.(See themwhite. them WINE.) RHINOCEROS-Latge,herbivorous,Africanandsouthern RJDNOCEROS - Large, herbivorous, African and southernof whose flesh (mostly that tunage,whose n.iysavage, pachyderm,very Asiaticpachyderm, Asiatic flesh (mostly that of preferred to that of the It ldibte. is young animals) the the young animais) is edible. It is ispreferred to that of thebe hippopotamus meat to considerhippopotamus whoconsider nativeiwho elepirantby6ynatives elephant meat to be now under protection' hippopotamusis isnow thehippopotamus butthe b"tt.t,but ev en better, under protection. "n* Plant originating in northern Asia' RHUBARBE RHUBARB.RHUBARBE RHUBARB. - -Plant originating in northern Asia, century'

It

fourteenthcentury. It was thefourteenth Europeininthe intoEurope introducedinto introduced a medicinal plant, then as an monksasas themonks firstbybythe cultivatedfirst plant, then as an cultivated a medicinal ornamentalplant. Plant. ornamental in a compote or as stewed either eaten, fleshyitems Thefleshy The stems areare eaten, either stewed ina compote or as iu-.rtcanalsobemadeintopiesandtartsintheEnglish jam. It can also be made into pies and tarts in the English style. style. : they contain a large amount eatentheycontain not shouldnot The leaves The leaves should bebe eaten: a largeamount a purgative' root The acid. oxalic ofof oxalic acid. The root is ais purgative. July' May from season Rhubarbis is Rhubarb in in season from May to to July.

77177r

was

RHYTON piemay Thepie maybebebrushed brushedwith withegg eggbefore beforebeing beingput putin inthethe The oven.When Whentaken takenout outit itis issprinkled sprinkledwith withsugar sugarand glazed and oyen. glazed witha ahot hotiron ironororsalamander, salamander,ororunder grill. underthe thegrill. with England,where wherethis pieis isvery thispie popular,il itis is verypopular, servedwith InInEngland, served with doublecream, cream,whipped whippedcream creamororcustard. custard. double

RHYTON- -Antique Antiquedrinking drinkingvessel vesselininthe theform formofofa aram's RHYTON ram,s horn,generally generallydecorated decoratedwith witha agoat's goat'shead, head,without withoutany hom, any flatbase, base,sosothat thatthe thedrinker drinkerwas wasobliged obligedtotoempty emptyit itbefore fiat before puttingit down. putting it down. RIBBON.RUBAN RUBAN- -Mixture Mixtureofofsugar sugarand andegg yolkswhich, eggyolks RIBBON. which, havingbeen beenweil wellbeaten, beaten,forms formsfolds foldsrather ratherlike likea aribbon having ribbonthat thai hasbeen beendropped droppedfrom froma aheight. height. has RICE. nrz- -Graminaceous Graminaceousgrain, grain,originating originatingininlndia RI CE. RlZ Indiaand and China,introduced introduced first firstofofailallinto intoEgypt, Egypt,then China, theninto intoGreece, Greece, whereitit was wasalready alreadyhighly highlyprized pfizedatatthe where thetime timeofofTheoTheo_ phrastus. lts portugal, then popularityspread Itspopularity spreadtotoPortugal, phrastus. thentotoItaly Italyand and America. InInFrance France Cardinal Cardinal Fleury's Fleury'stirst firstattempts America. attemptstotogrow grow Auvergnewere werenot notaasuccess. success.However, However,for ititininAuvergne sixt Y forthe thelast lastiixtv yearsor orso, so,there therehave havebeen beenrice riceplantations plantationsininthe years theCamargue. Camargue. Following early earlysetbacks, setbacks, these generallyyield thesegenerally yieldgood Following goodcrops cr-ops (ap-artfrom yearswhen from years whenweather weatherconditions conditionsare (apart particulariy areparticularly unfavourable). Rice Rice requires requires aa great greatdeal unfavourable). dealofofheat heatand and humidity toto grow grow weil. well.French French rice riceisisofofgood humidity goodquality quality although there there isis not notenough enoughof ofitit totosatisfy although satisfythe ttridemands OemanAs of of the home home market. market. the

Rhubarb tart(Clairel Rhubarb tart (Claire)

Compote of rhubarb. coMporE DE RHUBARBn Divide the the Compote of rhubarb. COMPOTE DE RHUBARBE - - Divide stems into pieces 6 to 8 cm. (2to inches) long. peel them and stems into pieces 6 to 8 cm. (2 to 33inches) long. Peel them and remove strings. Arrange them in a copper pan and pour over remove strings. Arrange them in a copper pan and pour over very thick syrup to half cover them. poach, coverid, in the very thick syrup to half coyer them. Poach, covered, in the oven without stirring. oyen without stirring. Serve in a compote dish. pour the syrup over the rhubarb. Serve in a compote dish. Pour the syrup over the rhubarb. Rhubarb jam. connruRE DE RHUBARBE Dissolve in a Rhubarb jam. CONFITURE DE RHUBARBE -- Dissolve in a copper pan 800 g. (l* lb.) sugar moistened with a few copper pan 800 g. (l~ lb.) sugar moistened with a few tablespoons water. Boil over a high flame for g minutes. put tablespoons water. Boil over a high fiame for 8 minutes. Put in a generoul I kg. (z+lb.) rhubarb stems, carefully stripped in a generous 1 kg. (2i lb.) rhubarb stems, carefully stripped and cut up. Poach on moderate heat with the cone. on th" and cut up. Poach on moderate heat with the coyer on the pan. pan. When the rhubarb is nearly cooked remove cover. reduce When the rhubarb is nearly cooked remove coyer, reduce heat and continue to cook, stirring all the time, until the heat and continue to cook, stirring ail the time, until the rhrrbarb becomes quite tender and comes apart. rhubarb becomes quite tender and cornes apart. the jam in pots cover them. them. Keep Keip in in aa cool, cool, dry dry .Put Put the jam in pots and and coyer place.

1

1

place.

Rice plant plant Rice

Rice Rice contains contains about about half half as as much much nitrogenous nitrogenous matter matter as as wheat, wheat, but but isis richer richer in in carbohydrates. carbohydrates. The Thefour four principal principal varieties varieties of ofrice rice are: are: hard hard rice, rice, mountain mountain . rice, rice, glutinous glutinous rice rice andfluitons. andfiuitons. Rice Rice isis sold sold under under various various trade trade names names that that are are not not alwavs always accurately accurately descriptive descriptive of ofits origin. its origin

Preparing rhubarb stalks for a oie Preparing rhubarb stalks for a pie (Claire'l ( Claire)

Carolina Caro/ina rice,long-grained, riee, long-grained, angular, angular, white white (or (or whitish whitish with with

aablue bluetinge), tinge),bright bright and and shiny. shiny.

Rhubarb pie (English cookery). pAr6 on RHUBARBE _ peel the Rhubarb pie (English cookery). PÂTÉ DE RHUBARBE - Peel the tender tenderstalks stalksofofrhubarb rhubarb and and cut cut them them inin pieces pieces 33to to 44cm. cm. (ab-out lj inches) long. Arrange them in an English-type pie (about li inches) long. Arrange them in an English-type pie

rief?, lar large-grained, shiny. MMadagascar adagascar rice, ge-,grained, shiny. Indo-Chinese lndo-Chinese rice, rice, much much smaller smaller than th an Indian lndian rice rice and and an an excellent excellentvariety. variety.ItItcooks cooksperfectly perfectly without withoutdisintegrating. disintegrating. Java Javarice, riee,more moreelongated elongatedgrains, grains,flat, flat, transpareni, transparent, shiny. shiny.

dish. Idish. Cover Coyerwith with sugar, sugar, add add 22or or 33tablespoons tablespoons water water and and

cover with_a piece of pastry laid over a strip of pastry on the Icover with a piece of pastry laid over a sLrip of pastry on the rim of the dish. Sprinkle with sugar. cook ai moderati heat in Irim of the dish. Sprinkle with sugar. Cook at moderate heat in the forabout about4545minutes. minutes. Itheoven oyenfor 1

Japanese Japanese rice, riee, uniform uniform oval oval grains, grains, hard, hard, transluclnt, translucent,

opaque opaqueatatthe thecentre, centre,greyish greyishwhite, white,shiny. shiny. Patna Palnarice, riee, grains grainsless lesshard, bard,milky milkywhite. white. 772 772

RICE RICE Italian , greyish'white !talianrice rice( Roman) (Roman), greyish-whitelustreless lustrelessgrains; grains; Piedmont, Piedmont,short, short,round-grain round-grainrice, ri ce ,very very white white and and shiny, shiny, darker darkerand andopaque opaqueatatthe thecentre. centre. Cargo Cargo rice-, rice, uihusked, unhusked, of ofCamargue. Camargue. Rice Rice cultivation cultivation inin Camargue isis less less intensive intensive than than itit was was during during the the Second Second Cama"rgue WorldWar. War. World American Americanrice, rice,long'grained long-grainedand andusually usuallypre-treated' pre-treated. To Tocook cookrice rice-- The Thepeoples peopleswho whodepend depend upon upon rice rice as astheir their staple staplefood foodnever neverstir stirwhile whileititisiscooking cookingand andnever nevercook cookitittoo too long long(average (average20 20 minutes). minutes). In In this this way way they they ensure ensure that that the the who le. remainwhole. grains remain -grains créole. Each Each separated separated grain grain is is very very slightly slightly bitebiteAÀ tala criole. resistant.This Thisresult resultisisobtained obtainedby byfirst tirstrinsingthe rinsing therice riceinincold cold resistant. thenplunging plungingititinto into ample ampleboiling boilingwater' water. water,then water, l'orientale oi orpilau-style. pi/au-style. The The rice rice isis first tirst browned browned in in fat, fat, AÀ t;orientile cooked inin stock, stock, which which must must be be completely completely absorbed absorbed by by thencooked then therice. rice. the plunge ln milk.Instead milk. Instead of of rinsing rinsing the the rice rice in in cold co Id water, water, plunge itit In into boiling boilingwater waterfor for 22minutes minutes to to get get rid rid of ofthe the starch. starch. Drain. Drain. into Complete the the cooking cooking in in milk milk (plain (plain or or spiced)' spiced). Complete The French. French, itit is is siid, said, do do not not know know how how to to cook cook rice' rice. In In Thi fact, itit isis frequently frequently overcooked overcooked and and instead instead ofdry of dry fluffy fluffy rice, rice, fact, there emerges emerges aa sort sort of of pap, pap, which is is better better suited suited to to sweet sweet there than to to .u-nonty savoury dishes. dishes. Nowadays, Nowadays, this this dilemma dilemma can can be be than American rice, rice, the the avoided by by using using pre-treated, pre-treated, long-grain American avoided overcooke-d' grains of of which which remain separate even even though though overcooked. grains dietetics -- Ricels Rice is an excellent excellent carbohydrate carbohydrate food' food, Rice in dietetics digested easily digested It is 79 per cent. starch. It is easily which contains about 79 which It isis calories' It 340 calories. ([ oz.) oz') rice provides 340 g. (4 and nourishing: 100 g. physical in physical of energy for those engaged in an important source of based diet based A diet food' A complete food. activities, but it not aa complete it isis not activiiies, but damaging' exclusively exclusively on rice can be damaging. necessitate whiter necessitate rice whiter at making rice Various processes aimed aimed at Varioui source (important source grain (important of the grain the removal of of the outer layers of its from its considerably from detract considerably and detract of minerais minerals and vitamins) and dietetic dietetic value. its of its stages of various stages the various at the names at Rice given different different names is given Rice is with paddy rice complete with state complete raw state its raw is rice ricein in its development. rice is developmint. Paddy which itit isis to which ball to fibrous bail its the tibrous glumelles, the gtimes and and glumelles, \ts glumes cargo becomes cargo rice becomes husked, rice attached. and husked, cleaned and Once itit isis cleaned attached. Once of (the degree degree of rice (the give white white rice rice. to give its turn turn to in its This isis treated treated in rice. This passed rice isis passed therice times the many times whiteness how many upon how depending upon whiteness depending the time the the time grain)' By By the the grain). through rasp the that rasp the machines machines that through the periitsperilost its has lost rice has the rice whitening completed, the process isis completed, white;ing process riceisis whiterice layer. White proteic layer. cardium and practically its its entire entire proteic practically cardium-and -into passed througb through being passed transformed by being polishedrice rice by transformed into polished

Flayingriœ Flaying rice

machines which remove any flour still adhering to the grain' machines which remove any flour still adhering to the grain. Shiny riceis rice that has been specially processed to give it an

Shiny rice is rice that has been specially processed to give it an sheen. Unfortunately, it has been proved that attractive attractive sbeen. Unfortunately,(processes it has been proved that the necessitating polishing

whitening and husking, husking, whltening and polishing also (processes the away preqous take necessitating the grain casings) removil of the grain casings) also take away precious removal of elements-Proteins in the outer husk disappear when nutritive nutritive elements. Proteins in the outer husk disappear when becomes white rice;lipids become rarer the whiter cargo cargorice rice becomes white rice; lipids become rarer especially the whlter vitamins, likewise); (mineral salts rice" rice becomes becomes (minerai salts likewise); vitamins, especially paddy present in to the B group, are those rice, but thosebelonging belonging to the B group, are present in paddy -rice'blu/" are consider-ably reduced during the whitening' polishing and are considerably reduced during the whitening, polishing and processes. shining shining processes. -scarcity polished rice has of vitamins in whitened or The The scarcity of vitamins in whitened or polished rice has those regions where it constitutes the main in effecti serious serious effects in those regions where it constitutes the main This vitamin deficiency is known as source source of of nourishment. nourishment. This vitamin deficiency is known as deficiency disease unknown in Europe is a It beri-beri. beri-beri. lt is a deficiency disease unknown in Europe because ofour varied diet. because of our varied diet. the preparation it of rice is improved by The The digestibility digestibility of rice is improved proteins by the preparation it in rice is only the proportion of Although undergoJs. undergoes. Although the proportion ofproteins in ricevariety is only are a particularly well-balanced they cent, 77 to 8-per to 8 per cent, they are a particularly well-balanced variety they of indispensable amino acids becausi of the the amount amount of indispensable amino acids up they because of of is made we eat 100 per cent of the rice to 75 contain. contain. 75 to 100 per cent of the rice we eat are is made of barelyupany easily assimilable- There are glucides, which glucides, which are easily assimilable. There are satisfy our that rice cannot barely any It is Fats. fats. It is evident, evident, therefore' therefore, that rice cannot satisfy our requirements. and mineral vitamin vitamin and minerai requirements. food because of its energyvaluable food is aa valuable rice is To sum sum up, To up, rice because of its energyit must be subsidised by: properties, but giving giving properties, but it must be subsidised by: " f . inimal (meat, fish, eggs, milk), or vegetable protein 1. Animal protein (meat, fish, eggs, milk), or milk, vegetable eggs and sweet rice containing (pulsei). Savoury Savoury and protein (pulses). protein sweet rice containingnourishing. milk, eggs extremely are sugar latter) sugar are extremely nourishing. (in the the latter) of the .ur" of tir" case and (in and to rice' adding, as it does, complement to perfect complement the perfect Milk isis the rice, adding, as it does, Milk calcium. protein and protein and calcium. (added the last moment)' at the butter Uncooked 2. Fats. Fats. Uncooked butter (added at 2. last moment), oil, the type usually used for olive oil, preferably olive oil, preferably uncooked oil, uncooked the type usually used for salads. rice-based salads. rice-based the form of green vitamins inin the and vitamins salts and Mineral salts 3.3. Mineral form ofserved greenin to be always ought which fruit, fresh and vegetables and fresh fruit, which ought always to be served in vegetables rice. on basedon rice. meal based of aa meal course of the course the RIZ AU BLANc, AU BEURRE - Put into a butter. RIZ rice witb with butter. Boiled rice Boiled AU BLANC, AU BEURRE - Put into a bottom 250 g' (9 oz', lf cups) thick flat, a with saucepan saucepan with a fiat, thick bottom 250 g. (9 oz., li cups) cold water and season with cold completely Cover rice. washed rice. Coyer completely with washed water and season minutes. for15l5minutes. rice for the rice Blanchthe withsalt. salt.Blanch with (3 g. oz', 6 tablespoons) 75 with75 dishwith saut6dish putinto intoaasauté Drain,put Drain, g. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons) with a fork, cover with carefully Mix pieces. little cui in butter butter cut in \ittle pieces. Mix carefully with a fork, coyer with minutes' for15l5minutes. ovenfor putininthe theoyen lidand and put aalid be eaten as it is' It is mostly maybe waymay thisway prepared ininthis Riceprepared eaten as it is. It is mostly Rice eggs, poultry, fish, etc' for accompaniment aJan used used as an accompaniment for eggs, poultry, fish, etc.

a ventilator through rice Cleaning Cleaning rice through a ventiJator

773I t)

Sifting rice Sifling rice

RICE UCE

(iy'icolcs) Cooked rice (Nicolas)

Rice ài la la créole. cr6ole. RlZ ruz À A LA r,q CRÉOLEcnforr - Take 1I kg. (2* (2f lb., 5 cups) Rice Indian rice put the persons. Wash it it in several waters. waters. Put Indian rice for for 8 persons. ihe rice in pan with a little salt and coyer cover with cold water. rice in aa thick thick pan water. Cook on good heat. When it on aa good it is well cooked, lower the heat Cook or covered, at at the side side of of the stove. It will or set set the the pan, pan, covered, will continue to cook and and will will dry slowly. Allow I1 hour hour for cooking. to cook Rice Rice croquettes croquettes - See See CROQUETTES. Rice au gras. Rrz AU cRAs - Blanch 250 g. (9 oz., oz., lt lf cups) . Rice au gras. RlZ AU GRAS rice, drain it, it, toss toss in butter and add to twici twice its height in itri the rice, drain pan_ pan some sorne pot-au-feu pot-au-feu broth or rather rather fatty white white stock. Bring to to the the boil. boil. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, in the the oven, oyen, without without disturbing disturbing it, for 20 minutes. minutes. for 20 Rice Rice ià la la grecque. grecque. nrz.l, RlZ À r.q. LA cREceuE GRECQUE -- prepare Prepare the the rice rice as as for pilaf (q.v.) adding, cooked, for every 500 iscooked, forevery 500 g. (lg (I80z., pilaf(q.v.) adding, when when itit is oz., 2f 2i cups) ClipS) rice rice measured measured uncooked, uncooked, I1 chopped chopped onionlossed onion tossed in in 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, butter, 50 50 g. g. (Z (2 oz., f,i cup) tablespoons (3 sausage meat divided divided into into small small pieces, pieœs, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., scant scant f,* sausage meat cup) cup) lettuce lettuce leaves leaves cut cut in in thin thin strips strips and and cooked cooked in in butter, butter, 44 tablespoons (5 tablespoons) tables po ons) peas peas cooked cooked in in butter, butter, and and 50 50 g.g. tablespoons (5 (2 (2 oz.) oz.) red red pimentos pimentos cut cut in in dice dice and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Mix rice, taking care not takingcare not to to break break Mix this this garnish garnish with with the the pilaf pilafrice, the the grains. grains. Rice l'indienne. nrz RlZ .A, À L'rNorsNNp L'INDIENNE -- Blanch Blanch 500 500 g. g. (lg (18 oz., oz., Rice ià I'indienne. 2| 2i cups) cups) rice rice for for 15 15 minutes minutes in in salted salted water, water, alloiving allowing 99 g.g. (scant (scant 1| li teaspoon) teaspoon) salt salt to to I1litre litre (lf (Ii pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) water, water, stirring stirringfrom from time time to to time time with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Drain Drain the the rice, rice, wash wash itit several several times times in in cold cold *ater, water, drain drain again and put putititon onaanapkin napkinlaid laid on on aa baking bakingtin tin or oraa strainer. strainer. again and Fold Foldover overthe theedges edgesofthe of thenapkin napkinso soas astotoenclose enclosethe therice. rice. put Put totodry dryininaawarm warmplace placefor for l5 15minutes. minutes. Rice prepared prepared in in this this way way isis the the essential essential accompaniment accompaniment _Rice of ofall ail curry currydishes. dishes. ItIt may may also also be be served served as as accompaniment accompaniment totoother otherstrongly stronglyseasoned seasoneddishes. dishes. Rice PILAF. Ricepilaf pilaf-- See SeePILAF.

Risotto Risotto ài la la milanaise milanaise -- Prepare Prepare the the risotto risotto as as in in the the following recipe. When it it isis cooked add milanaise garnish garnish add aa milanaise and and aa \ittle little rich rich brown brown sauce sauce which which has has been been strongly strongly flavoured witb with tomato. (Milanaise (Milanaise garnish is composed composed of of pickled tongue, tongue, cooked cooked lean ham, mushrooms and lean ham, and truffies, truffies, cut cut into into fairly fairly coarse coarse julienne julienne (q.v.) bound with brown sauce (q.v.) strips strips and and bound with rich rich brown sauce fiavoured with with tomato.) tomato.) flavoured à la pi6montaise piémontaise -- Cook lightly in in butter, butter, without Risotto A Cook lightly without allowing to colour, 100 100 g. g. (4 chopped onion. onion. When When allowing (a oz., I1 cup) cup) chopped 500 g. g. (18 (I8 oz., oz., 2j 2i cups) cups) Piedmont Piedmont rice. rice. it is cooked add 500 Cook gently over over aa low low heat, heat, and and stir stir and and shake shake until until all ail the the Cook Pour in, in, to to twice twice the the grains are are well weil impregnated impregnated with with butter. butter. pour grains

Risottodàlalapi6montaise piémontaise Risotto

774 774

RICE RICE height heightofofthe therice riceininthe thepan, pan, some sornepot-au'feu pot-au-feubroth brothor orwhite white stoik. stock.Repeat Repeatthis thisfive fiveor orsix sixtimes, times,adding addingaafresh freshquantity quantityof of liquid liquid oniy onlywhen whenthe thelast lastlot lot has hasbeen been absorbed absorbed by bythe the rice' rice. Cookthisrisotto, this risotto, covered, covered, for for 18 18to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to it,it, Cook when whencooked, cooked,22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons)butter butterand and75 75g'g. (3(3oz.,i oz., ~c.rp) cup)grated gratedParmesan. Parmesan. The The risoito risotto can can be be finished finished off offwith with different different ingredients, ingredients, suchas asham hamcut cutinto intodice diceand andtossed tossedininbutter, butter,mussels, mussels, fresh fresh such peas (which can can be be cooked cooked with with the the rice) rice) or or black black truffies, trufHes, peas (which which areadded addedto tothe the risotto risottoat at the thelast lastmoment. moment. whichare

Fill a buttered fireproof dish with Dessert RIz RIZ MERINGuE MERINGUÉ -- Fill a buttered fireproof dish with Dessert fruit, cut in dice and soaked in crystallised with rice mixed rice mixed with crystallised fruit, cut in dice and soaked in Build up the rice into a cake about 3 kirsch kirschor orother otherliqueur. liqueur. Build up the rice into a cake about 3 (l| to 1| inches) high. Cover with meringue, or or 44 cm. cm. (Ii to It inches) high. Coyer with meringue, it over. all smoothing smoothing it ail over. flan with meringue piped through a Decorate Decoratethe thetop topof ofthe the flan with meringue piped througb a sugar. Put into a very hot oven to forcing-bag. Sprinklewith with sugar. Put into a very hot oyen to forcing-bag. Sprinkle colour colourthe themeringue meringue lightlY. lightly. apricot jam and gooseberry jelly. Garnish Garnish with with strained strained apricot jam and gooseberry jelly.

DESSERTor or SWEET SWEET RICE. RI CE. ENTREMETS ENTREMETSAU AURIz RIZDESSERT Dessert Dessert or or sweet sweet rice rice for for croquettes croquettes and and puddings. puddings. RIz RIZ PouR POUR BORDURES, cRoQUErrEs, CROQUETTES, PouDINGs POUDINGS -- Wash Wash 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz', oz., BoRDUREs, generous generous1",rp) tcup) rice, rice, blanch blanch it, it, drain drain and and rinse rinse in in warm warm water' water. Drain Drain a-gain-and again and put put itit into into aa pan pan with with 88 dl. dL (l+ (lt pints, pints, lfI~ pints) pints) milli milk previously previously boiled boiled with with the the chosen chosen flavouring, flavouring, 75 75 g' g. (3 or,.,* oz., t cup) sugar, sugar, 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter and and aa i3 ""p) pinch of of salt. salt. small pinch small cooking over over aa high high flame' flame, cover coyer the the pan pan and and cook cook in in Begin cooking Begin the oven oyen at at aa gentle gent le heat heat until until the the rice rice is is nearly nearly cooked' cooked. the Take the the rice rice from from the the oven oyen and and add add to to itit 66 egg egg yolks, yolks, mixing mixing Take needed' Use them in in carefully carefully with with a fork. Add Add more more sugar, sugar, ififneeded. Use them according to the the recipe. according Dessert rice can be be flavoured flavoured with with vanilla' vanilla, orange orange or or lemon lemon Desseririce peel. peel. recipe will will provide provide the the basis basis The proportions given in this recipe served dessert for for 6 to 8 people. people. If If the the rice rice is is to to be be served for aa dessirt be ingredients may may be without fruit or other accompaniment the ingredients is if itit is cooked if augmented; and the rice should be completely cooked cooking' further cooking. requires further not to be used in a dish which requires noi it taking it on taking possible also to cook the rice as above, and on It is possible is method is This method out of the oyen oven to bind it with 3 whole eggs. This is less less rice is but the the rice preceding one, one' but the preceding less than the less extravagant than delicate. (l pint, pint, 2± 2| dl. (1 with 66 dl. Cook with cniur -- Cook I LA rn CRÈME ntz À Creamed rice. rice. RIZ 75 flavouring), 75 chosen flavouring), (previously boiled with the chosen cups) cups) milk (previously g' (4 (4 oz., oz'' 100 g. and 100 pinch ofsalt, of salt, and small pinch g. (3 oz., tcup) sugar, g.73 sugar, aa small oz.,*cup) drained' and drained. blanched and generous t* cup) rice, blanched generous cup) rice, thick cup) thick pint, scant scant cup) dl. (t to itit 22 dl. add to When iooked add When itif isis cooked $ pint, butter. (1 oz., tablespoons) butter. o2.,2 fresh cream and 25 g.g. (l 2 tablespoons) tnd,25 freshcream used preparation isis used This preparation if required. This sugar ifrequired. Add more sugar little more Add aa little sweets. for cold sweets. or cold hot or for making making hot flan shortcrust flan Fill aa shortcrust RIz -- Fill AU RIZ TARTE AU or tart. Riee FLAN, TARTE flanor ttrt. FLAN, Rice Han (l inch) of inch) of cm' (i within * cm. to within rice to (pie shell) Dessert rice case with Dessert shell) with case (pie moderate ataa moderate oven at in the the oyen Cook in sugar. Cook the with sugar. Sprinkle with edge. Sprinkle the edge. heat minutes. 25 to to 30 30minutes. for 25 heat for with be made made with may be cold. ItIt may or cold. hot or This served hot be served sweetcan can be This sweet fruit crystallised fruit with chopped-up chopped-up crystal!ised rice mixed with been mixed rice that that has has been liqueur. soaked other liqueur. orother inkirsch kirsch or soaked in AUx RIzAUX DERIZ TARTEDE FLAN, TARTE apricots. FLAN, Rice withapricots. tart with flan or Rice Han or tart case flan case theflan fillthe butfill recipe, but ABRICOTS inthe theabove above recipe, asin Proceedas ABRJcors - - Proceed raw ofraw place halves halves of rice place therice full.On On the only three-quarters fulL only three-quarters sugar' withsugar. Sprinklewith sugar. Sprinkle andsugar. apricots. kirschand soakedininkirsch apricots, soaked gentleheat. Cook heat. theoyen ovenatataagentle Cookininthe jamdiluted withaa dilutedwith withapricot apricot jam flanwith Spread theflan topof ofthe thetop Spread the !ittle strained. syrupand andstrained. littlesyrup other variousother withvarious bemade madewith In flansmay maybe riceflans *ayrice simeway Inthe thesame rosette, flaninina arosette, theflan onthe fruits arranged on bananasarranged slicedbananas suchasassliced fruitssuch syrup), half-cooked ininsyrup), quarters and cherries, (inquarters andhalf-cooked pears(in cherries,pears apples, sugar),apples, andsugar), liqueurand peaches (inhalves, soakedininliqueur peaches (in halves,soaked plums, plums,etc. etc. Fill luCARAMEL cAn,c'MEL- -Fill RIzAU DERIZ Rice cArs.auDE caramel.GÂTEAU gfiteauwitb withcaramel. Ricegâteau sugar, caramelisedsugar, withcaramelised linedwith a alarge mould,lined Charlottemould, larg-Charlotte for2525toto bain-mariefor oveninina abain-marie with theoYen Cookininthe rice.Cook withDessert besser trice. 3030minutes. minutes. Serve cold. hotororcold. Servehot FLANDEDE cArnlu'FLAN meringue.GÂTEAU, Gâteau withmeringue. ricewitb flanofofrice GflteauororHan

with a border of pears d I'imp6ratrice Rice à l'impératrice with a border of pears à l'impératrice

Rice d I'imperatrice

A L'nraP6n.a'tnrce Prepare Deslerl Rice Rice ài I'imp6ratrice. l'impératrice. RIz RIZ À L'IMPÉRATRICE -- Prepare Dessert it isis almost almost cold, add 2 When it vanilla. When it with with vanilla. rice flavouring flavouring it cold, add 2 rice crystallised fruit up ,crystallised chopped up (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 tablespoons fruit in kirsch. kirsch. soaked in soaked custard (see thick custard cup) thick (+ pint, pint, scant scant cup) dl. (t Incorporate 22 dl. Incorporate (see add at the last moment and add mix and cream), mix Custard cream), CREAMS, Custard CREAMS, at the last moment j cream. whipped generous cup) pint, (scant t pint, generous cup) whipped cream. dl. (scant 2| dL 2t (or a Bavarois mould (or Charlotte mould into aa Charlotte this mixture mixture into Pour this Pour a Bavarois has been spread with gooseberry which of bottom the mould) mould) the bottom ofwhich has been spread with gooseberry jelly to less than I cm. (* inch). Set on ice or little less of aa little to aa depth depth of jelly than 1 cm. (t inch). Set on ice or glass bowl. into aa glass out into Turn out refrigerator. Turn in the the refrigerator. in bowl. with a basis of Rice d made are desserts fruit Many Many fruit desserts are made with a basis of Rice à (See PEACH, Peaches d I'impiratice.) I'impdratrice. (See /'impératrice. PEACH, Peaches à /'impératrice.) 100 g. (4 oz', generous I Wash 100 milk. RIZ LAIr -- Wash mz AU AU LAIT Rice in in milk. Rice g. (4 oz., generous t rinse it in warm water and put Drain, rinse it. Drain, blanch it. and blanch rice and cup) rice cup) it in warm water and put dl. (1{ pints, lf pan containing 88 dl. into aa pan containing well drained, drained, into back, well itit back, (l pints, I~ salt. pinch of small and a pints) milk pints) milk and a small pinch of salt. rice is tender' Add on, until until rice lid on, with aa lid slowly, with very slowly, Cook very Cook is tender. Add necessary and ifif necessary sweet,and for aasweet, intended for rice isis intended the rice sugar ifif the sugar milk. boiled tablespoons boiled milk. few tablespoons withaafew lighten itit with lighten served as a dessert, is and ififserved cold, and or cold, hot or servedhot rice isisserved This rice This as a dessert, is peel or lemon peel. orange peel vanilla, orange withvanilla, flavoured with flavoured or lemon peel. Dessert Prepare MoNTMoRENCY RIZ RiceMontmorency. Montmorency. RIZ MONTMORENCY - - Prepare Dessert Rice glass bowl and into aaglass Put into vanilla. Put withvanilla. riceflavoured flxvoured with bowl and rice cherries in syrup' withcherries alternating with slicesalternating banana slices with banana decorate with decorate in syrup. DE RIz uout f - Prepare PUDDING DE pudding mould. mould.PUDDING Ricepudding Rice RIZ MOULÉ - Prepare with thickened having it, after in Incorporate in it, after having thickened ititwith rice.Incorporate Dessertrice. Dessert this mixture a Fillwith withthis beaten.Fill stiffiybeaten. yolks,33egg whites,stifIly eggwhites, eggyolks, mixture a egg breadwithbreadsprinkled with andsprinkled buttered and mould,buttered Chartotiemould, targeCharlotte large crumbs. crumbs. for20 20 to 25 minutes. Leave oveninina abain-marie theoyen Cookininthe Cook bain-marie for to 25 minutes. Leave Serve with mould.Serve themould. outofofthe turningout beforeturning minutes before fora afew fewminutes for with or cream) Czstard (see CREAMS, custard fruit sauce, fruit sauce, custard (see CREAMS, Custard cream) or (q.v.). zabaglione zabag/ione (q.v.). DE RIz AUx FRUITS - Fill a sonouREDE fruit.BORDURE withfruit. ricewith Ringofofrice RIZ AUX FRUITS - Fill a Ring oven in a theoyen Cookin rice.Cook Dessertrice. withDessert ringmould mouldwith butteiedring buttered in the in a of the mould onto a Turn out 12 minutes. l0 to for bain-marie bain-marie for lOto 12 minutes. Turn out of the mould onto a syrup, cut cookedininsyrup, fruitscooked variousfruits withvarious themiddle middlewith Fillthe dish.Fill cut dish. (see SAUCE) sauce(see Apricotsauce warmedininApricot andwarmed diceand bigdice ininbig SAUCE) kirsch. withkirsch. flavouredwith flavoured border' riceborder. therice syrupononthe cookedininsyrup apricotscooked halfapricots Puthalf Put cherries' crystallised and angelica of lozenges with Decorate Decorate with lozenges of ange!ica and crystallised cherries.

t

t

"t7s 775

RICEYSCENDRÉ CENDRE RICEYS Pourovcr overa afew fewtablespoons tablespoonsapricol apricotsauce sauceflavoured flavoured with with Pour kirsch. kirsch. Thisswecl sweetisis81so alsoknown knownasasAprÎcolS ApricotsConde. Condd. This Riispap or saffronrÎCe. rice.RIZ nrz,lu slruu- -This puddingisisvery Thispudding very AU SAFRAN popular inthe theFlemish Flemishcountryside. countryside. (Il OZ., 300g.g.(II generouslilj cups) oz.,generous cups)rice riceÎnin1Ilitre (lf litre(Ii .Cook300 pints,generous generous quart)milk milklightly lightlysweetened sw;etenedwîth withbrown browi pints. sugar.Continue Continue cookingthis thismixture mixture umillhe grainsofofrice until thegrains rice sugar. caneasily easilybe becrushed. crushed. Tocolour colourthe therice, rice,add addaasmall pinchofof smallpinch can safton. saffron. TurnOUI outthe therice riceinto intofiat flatplates, plates,spreading spreading ititout outweIl. well. Turn Al_low to tocooL cool.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withbrown brownor orwhite white sugar. Allow preparethe Subrics ofnec. rice.SUBR1CS suBRrcs DE DERlZ Rrz- -Prepare the riieas asfor forRicc Rice Subric.s puddingmou/do mould.Add Add chopped-up crysrallised crystallised fruit fruitsoaked soaked inin pudding liqueur.Spread Spread evenly, evenly, about about 3cm. cm. (1(l inch) inch)thick, thick, on on aa liqueur. buttered baking baking dish. dish. Dot Dotthe the surface surface wilb with butter butter 10 prevent to prevenl buttered the rice rice from from gening gettingdry. dry. Ailow Allow to tocool. cool. the Cut înto into rounds rounds about put about 55cm. cm. (2(2 inches) inches)inin diameter. diameter. Pul Cut them into into aa pan pan in in which which c1arified clarified butter butter has has been been heated; heated; them colour lhem them on on bath both sides. sides. colour Arrange the the subrics subrics in in aa crown crown on on aa round round dish dish and put inin and put the middle of of eaeb each 1I teaspoon jelly or teaspoon gooseberry gooseberry jelly or aDy any other other firmjam. firmjam. Vanilla riec rice àA la la &urooo Bourbon (Créole (Creole cookery). cookery). RIZ nlz VANILLÉ vexruf ÀA LA ra Vanüla BgyRloI -- Cook Cook genrly in in 1I litre litre (1(lf; pints, generous generous quart) quart) BOURBON ï pints, milk 33 tablespoons (scant *cnp) rice previousiy b!anched rice previously blanched and and milk drained well, until until it becomes becomes aa porridge. porridge. Add Add sugar sugar and and drained vanilla to to taste. taste. vanilla When the the rice rice has has cooled, cooled, add add 33 egg yolks. Beat egg yolks. Beat the the whiles whites When separately into into aa stiff stifffoam and fold fold them inlo into the the riee rice before before separately foam and turning into ila deep, lightly lightly butrered buttered dish. dish. Bake in theoven the oven for for luroinginto 20 minutes. minutes. Sprinkle with with sugar sugar and and serve serve in in the dish dish in in which 20 it was was cooked in in the the oven. oven. il Rice water. EAU EAU DE nrz -- Boil Boil 25 g. g. (l oz" oz., 22 tablespoons) Rîce water. DE RlZ rice I litre litre (lf pints, generous quirt) waler water until it it is soft. rice in in 1 pints, generous Flavour with (l oz.) g. (l oz.) liquorice or g. (2 (Z oz.) quince or 50 50 g. Flavour with 25 g. saccharine when when sugar ii syrup, replacing replacing these these with with saccharine is for_ forl{lu-p, bidden. bidden.

or

RICEYS RICEYS CENDRE CENDRÉ -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. RICHE (Caf6) See RESTAURANTS RICHE (Café) - Sec RESTAURANTS OF OF BycONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS. RICHE RICHE (A (À LA) LA) -- Method Method of preparing fish, fish, particularly particularly sole. sole. ItIt was W3S at al the the Cafi Café Riche, Riche, aa parisian establishment establishment whiih whieh has has

now now disappeared, disappeared, that that Riche Riche sauce sauce wascreated was created (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE).

RICHEBOURG RICHEBOURG (Wine). (Winc). nronnounc RICHEBOURG (vrN (VIN DE) DE) _ - Great Great appellation appellation controlde cOJllrolée vineyard vineyard of of the the C6te Côte de de Nuits, Nuits, situated sÎtualed in produces the in the commune commune of of Vosne-Roman6e. Vosne-Romanée. Produces renowned, renowned, elegant, eleganl, aromatic aromatic red red wines. wines. (See (See BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) RICHELIEU RICHELIEU (A CÀ LA) LA)-- Name Namegiven given to 10 various various preparations. In_the composed of of ln thefirst first place place the the word word describes descrîbes aa garnish composed stuffed sluffed tomatoes tomatoes and and mushrooms, mushrooms, braiied lettuce leuuce and and potpotatoes lightly roasted in atoes lightly roasled in butter. bUller. The The term term dà la la Richeliez Richelieu also also applies applies to to aa method melhod of of preparing fillets flllets of ofsole soleor orother otherfish. fish. The Thefillets fiJlets are arecoated coated inin egg and breadcrumbs, cooked cookedin in butter, butter, served served with withmaitre_ maÎlre,Richd'h6tel butter buller and and garnished garnished with with truffies. truffies. The The name name 'Richelieu'is given elieu' isalso also givento toaalarge largesweet sweetpastry, pastry,made madeas asdescribed described

below. below. Richelieu Richelieu(PAtisserie) (Pâtisserie)-- Ingredients. Ingredients. 500 500g.g.(lg (18oz., OZ.,2| 2tcups) cups) sugar, sugar, few few drops drops vanilla vanilla essence, essence, 375 375 g. g. (13 (13 oz.,: oz., 3 cupsj almonds, g. (5 j I 50 g. (5oz., 50 g.g.(5(5oz., almonds, 150 oz.,generous generous}cup) cup)buiter, buner,I 150 oz.,ti cup) cup) flour, flour, 16 16 eggs, eggs, I 1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant'l scant ~ ""pj maraschino. marasehino. Method. Melhod. Pound Poundthe thealmonds almondsfinely, adding to them 2 egg whites whitesand anda alittle lilliesugar. sugar.Rub Rubthrough a sieve into a abasin. basin,ai'd

776 776

lhe thesugar, sugar,vanilla vanillaessence, essence,cgg yolksand eggyolks andmarasehino, maraschino,and andstir stir with witha awooden woodenspoon spoonunlîl untilthe themixture mixturebecomes becomeswhite. white. Add Addthe themehed meltedbutter, butter,sprinkle sprinkleininlhe thesieved sievedflour, flour,and and noaJly finallyadd pourthe add10l0sliffly stifrybeaten beatenegg eggwhites, whites, Mix. Mix.Pour themixture mixture into Ids. Bake intoshallow shallowbuttercd butteredmou moulds. Bakeinina amoderate moderate oven. oven. Sandwich Sandwich the thecake cakelayers jamand layerswith withapricot apricotjam andFrangipane Frangipane cream cream(see (seeFRANGIPANE). FRANGIPANE). lce Icewilh withwhite white Fondnm Fondaniicing tcing (seelONG) (see ICING) flavoured flavoured with withmaraschino. maraschino.Decorate Decorate with witf, angelica. angelica. RICKETS. RICKETS. RACHlTISME RAcHrrrsME - - Dîsease Diseaseaffeeting affectingchildren, children, c8used caused by digestivetroubles troublesand andvitamîn vitamin deficiency. deficiency. Remedie
RISSOLE RISSOLE The Thewordgimblette word gimblellecomes cornesfrom from the lheItalian Italian cianbetta cianbellawhich which

strawberries. strawberries. Pur6e Purée of of peaches peaches also also goes goes very very well weIl with with rigodon. rigodon. Rigodon Rigodon with witb meat. roellt. RIc'oDoN RIGODON AvEc AVEC vIANDB VIANDE -- 'Put 'Put into Înto aa basin tablespoons of offlour flour (or (or rice riceflour). flour). Add Add 77eggs. eggs. basin 22 good tablespoons Mix Pour in, in, stirring stirring well, weil, I1litre litre (l| (l~ pints, pints, generous generous Mix well. Pour quart) lightly salted. quart)boiled boiled milk, milk,lightly salted. Add Add 200 200 g.g. (7 (7 oz, oz., scant seant cup) cup) cold cold boiled boiled pork pork cut eut in in very very small small dice dice (or (or an an equivalent quantity streaky bacon). ofslreaky bacon). Pour Pourthe the mixture mixture into into a deep dish, quantity of well ofbutter butter here here and and there there on on the the weil buttered. buttered. Put Put small small pieces pieces of surface. is eaten eaten surface. Cook Cook in in a a moderate moderate oven. oven. This This flan flan is lukewarm orcold.' (Phîleas Gilbert's Gilbert's recipe.) recipe.) lukewarm or cold.' (Phil6as

means gimblettesshould should meansscalded. scalded.This Thisetymology etymologyimplies impliesthat thatgimblettes be bescalded scaldedbefore beforethey theyare areput putinin the theoven. oven, The centuries old old-- are are Thebest bestknown known-- and andtheir theirreputation reputation isiscenturies

those ofAlbi. Albi. those of

Orange ring-biscuits (Car6me's (Carême-'s recipe). recipe).

A cIMBLETTES G1MBLETIES À

'Grate half half an an orange orange rind rind on on aa lump lump of of sugar; sugar; crush fine powder powder and and mix mÎx itit with with more more fine fine crush the the sugar sugar to to aa fine sugar so 50 that lhat the the whole whole amount amount measures measures 175 175 g. g. (6 (6 oz.,l oz., :f cup). Pound Pound thoroughly thoroughly 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., scant seant cup) fresh fresh 2 almonds. 225 g.g. (8 oz., oZ.,2 almonds. Place Place in in aa circle, circle, round round this this mixture mixture,,225 cups) cake flour. fiOUL Put Put in in the the centre centre I1 teaspoon teaspoon yeast yeast cups) sifted sifted cake dislolved ofaa tumbler tumblcr of ofmilk. milk. Add Add 50 50 g. (2 (2 o2.,f, oz.,! dissolved in in aa quarter of cup) cup) butter, butter, 2 egg yolks, yolks, aa pinch of ofsalt, salt. the the almonds and and the the in the ingredients these orange-flavoured anl!e-naVOlllre:d sugar. sugar. Knead all ail these usual way and leave leave the the dough dough in in aa warm warm place for 5 to 6 way and hours (0 ferment. ferment. hours to to allow allow the the yeast yeast to 'Now 'Now break break the the dough dough and and roll roll itit into inlo strips, strips, each each the the width width of of aa little liule finger. fingeL When When there there are arc 55 or or 66 strips slrips made, made, cut eut them them length. Make diagonally iOlO pieces each eacb l3 13 cm. cm. (5 (5 inches) inches) in illlength. Make diagonally into these these into ioto little little rings so so that that the the joins joins are are invisible. invisible. 'Having prepared the in this this way, way. drop drop the the rings rings into into the dough dough in gently it a large saucepan saUIl:eIJan of of boiling boili ng water. water. Stir Stir it gent! y with with aa spatula spat ula to (0 prevent prevent the rings rings from from sticking sticking and and to to bring bring them them to to the the surface. drop them them into into cool cao! water. w8ter. surface. Drain Drain them them and and drop 'When 'When they are are cold, cold, drain drain them them in in aa large sieve. sieve. Now Now toss toss them them to to dry dry them. Dip Dip each each one one in in aa little Jjule beaten egg egg (2 (2 eggs eggs or three should be used used in in all) ail) two two or three times. times. should be 'Leave 'Leave them them to to drain drain for for aa few few minutes. minutes. 'Arrange 'Arrange them them carefully carefully on on three three lightly lightly greased greased bakingbakingslow oyen oven until sheets and bake in a a slow until they they are are a a good good sheets and bake them them in colour. colom. 'In the same way, 'In the same way, itit is is possible possible to to make make little Hule plaited plaited biscuits biscuits as a as long about as or or little llule rolls rails about long as a thumb. thumb. rind of of with the flavoured with 'These ring-biscuits also flavoured be also the rind 'These ring-biscuits may may be or orange, or or with or Sevi Seville lemon, lemon, citron citron or Ile orange, with aniseed, aniseed, vanilla vanilla or water.' orange-flower water.' orange-ftower (See RICE.) RICE.) basis. (See with aa riec rice basis. Dishes RISOTTO RISOTTO - Dishes with

-

L'oRANGE L'ORANGE -

RIGOTTE RIGOTTE DE DE CONDRIEU CONDRIEU -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. RILLAUDS RILLAUDS AI\D AND RILLETTFSRILLETTES - Preparation Preparation of ofpork, park, both bath lean Jean and and fat, fat, cut cut into into very small small pieces pieces and and gently gently cooked cooked in in lard Rillelles are are then then pounded pounded in in aa lard with with the the usual usual seasoning. Rillettes mortar. Rillauds or or rillons rillons are are not. noL mortar. Rillauds Rillettes are Rillelles are made made industrially industrially almost almost everywhere everywhere in in France. France. Tours Tours and and Le Le Mans Mans rillettes ril/elles are are highly rughly esteemed. esleemed. Goose rillettes are are made made in in the tbe same same way way as as pork pork Goose and and rabbit rabbit rillettes rillelles. rillettes. Cut2l Cut 21 kg. (5* (5-!- lb.) lb,) fresh fresh belly belly of of pork park into into large dice. Heat Heat 25 g. Q (1 oz., oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) lard lard in in aa pan, pan, add add diced pork, park, and and cook lightly. Add t-î cup of of water. waler. Cook gently till ti!! tender, tender, stirring frequently ",",''-1'''_''''1 to to make make sure that that the the meat meat does not not stick 10 the bottom. When the to the pieces picces of of pork pork are cooked cooked and browned. browned, drain them. therillettes Chop or pound the ril/elles finely, put them them in În a basin, basin, and cooking. Season with salt and add to 10 them the fat from the cooking. pepper pepper and mix. Put Put the the rillettes rillelles into small stone jars and and allow to ta cool. Cover with of lard. Cover When pour over over a thin layer of When they tbey are are cold pour paper. white paper. of fresh belly D'ANJou -- Cut fresh Rillauds of Anjou. RILLAUDS RILLAUDS D'ANJOU belly of Season with pork cm. (2|inches) park into pieces pieces about 6 cm. inches) square. Season (* oz., g. salt or., per lb.), 25 g. salt per kg.
though kinds of pastry, though different kinds with different Dish made made wîth RISSOLE- Dish IUSSOLEforcemeat, of lorcernealt. various sorts sorts of pastry, filled with various filled with usually of puff pastry, usuallyof fat. in deep deep fat. fried in turnover and and fried shape of of aa turnover the shape often made made in the often small like small in the the oyen oven Iike cooked in also be be cooked may also This dish, dish, which which may This small entrée. entrie' or aa small hors-d'cuvre or hot hors-d'œuvre as aa hOl patties, îs is served served as garnish for for large large as garnish be used used as can be small size size can Rissoles of of very very smaIJ poultry. pieces ofmeat or poultry. of meat or pieces in known in were known roinsolles, were called roinsolles, to be be called which used used ta Rissoles, which Rissoles, kind simply aa kind were simply they were In those those days they century. ln the thirteentb thirteenth century. lhe be to be they came came to Later they or dripping. Laler in butter butter or of pancake fried fried io of meat. filled with with chopped chopped meat. (Cies of Paris) called called of Paris) de Paris Paris (Cries of the the Cris Cris de The author author of The (dice food) in the the evenings evenings food) because because in 'denries aux dtis' (dice rissoles 'denrées aux dès' rissoles people subject other people and other students and workmen, students after supper supper the the workmen, after than these nothing more more than hazard nothing rules could could hazard to very very strict strict rules to games ofehance. pastries in of chance. in their their games pastries into inpastry, made made according according to the pastry, Roll out out the Method. Roll Method. (i inch). inch). cm. (.} thickness of of tI cm. structions, ta to aa thîckness structions, pastry-cutter. with aa pastry-cutler. required with number or of pieces required the number Cut out out the Cut turnover, itit isis form of of aa IUrnover, in Ihe the forrn for rissoles rissoles made in Except for Except pastry for rissole. pieces of for each each rissole. of pastry out two two pieces necessary to to eut cut OUi necessary as walnut, as size of of aa walnul, the size forcemeat the of forcemeat Fill these with aa piece of these with Fil) indicated in in the the recipe. Îndicated piece of of second piece with aasecond water. Cover Cover with with water. edges with Moisten the the edges Moisten Press the the edges edges turnover. Press form of ofa pastry or in the the form fold avec over in or fold pastry a turnover. and drain, and last moment, moment, draÎn, Fry atat the the last together to them. Fry to seal seal them. together fried parsley. serve. Garnîsh with fried Garnish with serve. horsHot horsFor differenl different recipes see HORS-D'(EUVRE, HOI For d'euvre. d'œuvre.

The and fruitfruit. The stalks and some stalks RIND. ÉCORCE fconcn - - Tbe The outer outer skin skin of of sorne RIND. great in aa great used in are used lemon and and orange orange are rinds of of cinna cinnamon, mon, lemon rinlis in cooking. cooking. many different different ways ways in many

BORDER. RING RING -- See SeeBORDER. given 10 types various lypes to various Name gÎven RING-BISCUIT. GIMBLETTE cnrasrntrr - - Name RING-BISCUIT. ring. theform formof ofaaring. ofsmalt smallbiscuit biscuit made made ininthe of 777 777

RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) RMSALTES (MUSCAT DE) - Very strong liqueur wine RIVESALTES (MUSCAT DE) - Very strong liqueur wine ^ harvested at Rivesaltes, pvr6n6essmalltown townininthe Ihe pyrénéesharvested at Rivesaltes, a asmall Orientales. This wine is highly flavoured. Orientales. This wine is highly ftavoured. ROACH. cARDoN - Common name of a freshwater fish of ROACH. GARDON - Common name of a freshwater fish of the carp family, something between the carp and the bream. the carp family, something between the carp and the bream . In U.S.A. it is called golden shiner minnow. Its fins are red. its In U .S.A. it is ca lied golden shiner minnow. Its fins are red, its white flesh quite delicate, but it has so many forked bones white fiesh quite delicate, but it has so many forked bones that it is difficult eat. Roach is most commonlv eaten fried. that it is difficult totoeat. Roach is most commonly eaten fried .

Nostradamus,a agreat greatsixteenth-century sixteenth-centurygastronome gastronomeand Nostradamus, and literaryfigure (1503-66)wrote figure(1503-66) wrotethat thatthis thisbird biidoriginated originatedinin Iiterary Greeceand andthat thatititwas wasKing KingRené Ren6ofofAnjou Anjouwho whobrought Greece broughtit it Provence.The Theseventeenth-century seventeenth-centurypoet, poet,Cyrano totoProvence. Cyranodede Bergerac,said saidthat that'Bartavelles 'Bartavellesare partiidgesasascardin aretotopartridges ais Bergerac, cardinals greyfriars aretotogrey friars. . ..' .' are .thebartavelles GrimoddedelalaReynière Reynidreconsidered consideredthat that'the Grimod bartavelles deservesuch profoundrespect suchprofound respectthat peopleshould thatpeople deserve shouldgogodown downonon theirknees kneestotoeat eatthem" them !' their Allthe therecipes recipesgiven givenfor partridge(q.v.) forpartridge (q.v.)can Ali canbebeapplied appliedtoto rockpartridge. partridge. rock ROCKET (Cress). (Cress).ROQUETTE Roer.rErrE- - Strong-srnelling Strong-smelling plant plantwith ROCKET with sharpand piquantftavour. andpiquant flavour.ItsItsleaves leavesare sharp aresmooth smoothand and glabrous, the theftowers flowerswhite paleyellow whiteororpale yellowand growswild g1abrous, andititgrows wildinin thefields. fields.ItItisisused usedasasseasoning seasoningininsalads. salads. the

ROESeeSOFT SOFTROES. ROES. ROE - See ROEBUCK. CHEVREUIL cnEVREUTL - -Wild WildEuropean ROEBUCK. Europeanand andAsiatic Asiaticdeer. deer. The young youngof ofboth bothsexes sexesisiscalled called afawn The until 1818months afawnuntil monthsold, old, pricket or yearling up oryearling yearsold, uptoto22years pricket old,then tbenbrocket. brocket.One Onecan can establish the theage ageof ofthe the animal animal ininthe establish themale male by bythe thenumber numberof of tines on onthe theantlers, antlers, and and ininthe thefemale female by tines bythe theburrs. burrs.The Themeat meat ofroebuck and other otherdeer deer isisalso of roebuck and alsocalled called venison. venison. The meat meat of young roebuck of the the young roebuck or The or roedeer roedeer isisdelicate, delicate. especially ifif itit has has not not been been marinated; especially marinated; that thatof of the the old old brockets, which which isistougher, tougher, does brockets, does need need marinating, marinating, but butnot not for for long. long. The ftesh flesh of of the the roebuck roebuck is, The is, like like practically practically all game,rather all game, rather indigestible because because of poisons that of the the poisons indigestible that accumulate, accumulate, due due to to the excessive excessive muscular muscular activity the activity of the animal of the pursued. animal when when pursued.

Roach

Roach

ROAST. nOr, n6n - The French word rdr is the most general ROAST. RÔT, RÔTI- The French word rôt is the most general term and the most noble, according to M. de Courchamps term and the most noble, according to M. de Courchamps (author of a cookery book) to describe not only roasted me-at (author of a cookery book) to describe not only roasted meat but also the course which follows the entrie. The roast can be but also the course which follows the entrée. The roast can be a piece of meat (though this was always the entrie in the a piece of meat (though this was always the entrée in the grande cuisine of past days), poultry or game, or, in France, grande cuisine of pa st days), poultry or game, or, in France, even fried fish or a Lenten fishpdtd. Roasts are always served even fried fish or a Lenten fish pâté. Roasts are always served on oval dishes. on oval dishes. The word rdli describes the actual piece of meat, poultry or The word rôti describes the actual piece of meat, poultry or game, cooked on the spit or in the oven and served hot. game, cooked on the spit or in the oyen and served hot. ROASTING. RÔTISSAGE n6rrssacn -- Method Method of of cooking cooking foodstuffs foodstuffs ROASTING. which must must be be done done according according to to certain certain principles. principles. (See (See which CULTNARY METHODS.) CULINARY METHODS.) ROASTING PAI\. PLAQUE rr,lque ÀA RÔTIR n6nn -- Kitchen Kitchen utensil utensil which which ROASTING PAN. must with thedripping the dripping pan pan used placing for placing used for must not not be be confused confused with joints under on the the spit. spit. under joints roasting roasting on The (or sorne some other other fairly fairly The roasting roasting pan pan is is aa tinned-copper tinned-copper (or tough grid on cuts ofrneats of meati on which which cuts tough metal) metal) pan, pan, provided provided with with aa grid to to be be roasted roasted in in the the oven oyen are are placed. placed. It It is is important important that that the roastingjoints roastingjoints should should not not lie lie in in the the fat fat or or the the gravy. gravy. In In some sorne restaurants, restaurants, which which take take pride pride in in their their work, work, roasting pans have have special special devices devices which which permit pennit the joint joint roasting pans intended for roasting put intended for roasting to to be be put on on aa spit. spit. ROB ROB -- Fruit Fruit juice juice thickened thickened by by evaporation evaporation to to the the consistency sistency ofhoney. of honey. ROBERT ROBERT (Sauce) (Sauce) -- This This sauce, sauce, an an accompaniment accompanirnent to to pork pork chops onions and and mustard, mustard, ijsaid is said chops and and seasoned seasoned with with vinegar, vinegar, onions to Robert Vinot, Vinot, who, who, to have have been been invented invented by by aa certain certain Robert according on aa print print which which bears bears his his portrait, portrait, according to to the the legend legend on was was aa celebrated celebrated sauce-maker sauce-maker at at the the beginning beginning of of the the seventeenth For the the recipe, recipe, see see SAUCE. SAUCE. seventeenth century. century. For ROBIN. ROBIN.RoucE-c,oRGEROUGE-GORGE - Small Small passerine, passerine, sometimes sometimes eatenen eaten en brochettes brochettes (on (on skewers). skewers). Prepared Prepared in in the the same same way way as as larks. larks . The the size halfthe size of ofthe the American American robin. robin. TheEuropean European robin robin isishalf ROBLOT ROBLOT -- French French name name given given in in certain certain regions regions to to small small mackerel. mackerel.

Roebuck and and hounds; hounds; painting painting by by Oudry Oudry Roebuck

Civet of of roebuck roebuck (venison). (veoison). crvrr CIVET DE DE cr{EvREUrr CHEVREUIL - The parts Civet - The parts of the the roebuck roebuck used used for for this this stew, stew, which which is is made made in in the the iame sa me of way as as Civet Civet of ofhare hare (see (see HARE) HARE) are are the the shoulders, shoulders, the the neck, neck, way upper part part ofthe of the loin. loin. the breast breast and and the the upper the one can can seldom seldom obtain obtain the the blood blood of of the the roebuck, roebuck, itit isis As one As replaced for for the the final final liaison liaison of ofthe the sauce sauce with with hare's hare's blood. blood, or or replaced that of ofrabbit. rab bit. that or cuflets. cutlets. cdrrrnrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE Roebuck (venison) (veoison) chops cbops or Roebuck CHEVREUIL -- These These chops chops or or cutlets cutlets are are taken ta ken from from the the loin. loin. cIrEvR-EUrL Trimand and beat beatthem themlightly. lightly. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and and Trim sautéininvery veryhot hotoil oilas asquickly quicklyas aspossible possibleinin orderiofeep order to keepthe the saut6 centreofofeach eachcutlet cutletslightly slightlypink. pink. centre Arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa crown. crown, alternatine alternating with with Arrange croûtonsofbread of bread cut cut into into heart heart shapes shapes and and fried fried in in Sutter. butter. crottons

ROCHER ROCHER DE DE CANCALE CANCALE -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE DAYS. BYGONEDAYS.

ROCK red-legged ROCKPARTRIDGE. PARTRIDGE.uRravnrm BARTAVELLE-- AAvariety varietyofofred-Iegged partridge, butbigger biggerthan thanthe thelatter. latter.ItItisisknown knownasasthe theGieek Greek partridge,but partridge. partridge.The Thefemale fernaleisissmaller smallerthan thanthe themale maleand andhas haslighter lighter coloured is very very common cornmon inin coloured plumage. plumage. This This partridge partridge is southern southernEurope Europeand andininthe theAlps, Alps,from fromwhich whichititcomes cornesdown down ininthe thewinter. winter.Its Itsflesh fteshisisvery verygood. good. 778 778

ROEBUCK ROEBUCK Roebuck Roebuck (venison) (venison) chope chops or or cutlets cutlets Aà la la minute. minute. cOTELETTES CÔTELETTES DE DE crrEvREUIr CHEVREUIL a À rl LA MINUTE MINUTE -- Saut6 Sauté the the chops chops or or cutlets cutlets are they quickly or butter. butter. Sprinkle Sprinkle them them while while they are cooking cooking quickly in in oil oil or

Dress IDress them them with with the the sauce sauce indicated indicated by by the the particular particular recipe recipe (see (seebelow) below) and and garnish garnish accordingly. accordingly.

1 The The meaty meaty part part of of the the cutlet cutlet can can be be larded larded with with fine fine orstrips strips ofsalt of salt pork pork inserted inserted in in the the form fonn ofa of a star' star. If If lardoons Ilardoons or the chops chops or orcutlets cutlets are are taken ta ken from from an an old old animal animal they they can can be be the marinated beforehand. beforehand. marinated Roebuck (venison) (veoison) chops chops or or cutlets cutlets with with chestnuts. chestnuts. I Roebuck [CÔTELETTES DE cITEvREUIL CHEVREUIL AUx AUX MARRoNs MARRONS -- Cook Cook the the chops chops or cOTELETTES DE !cutlets in the the same same way way as as for for Roebuck Roebuck (venison) chops or cutlets in cutlets poivrade poivrade (see (see below). below). Arrange Arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa cutlets crown, alternating alternating with with crottons croûtons fried fried in in butter' butter. Fill FiJI the crown, Icentre the dish dish with with braised braised chestnuts. chestnuts. Pour Pour over over a centre of the [Poivrade sauce (seeSAUCE). (see SAUCE). Fix Fix aa paper paper frill friII on on each each cutlet. Poivrade sauce

with, with, for for 66 cutlets, cutlets, I1 large large tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped onion. onion. with Drain Drain the the cutlets, cutIets, arrange arrange them them in in the the form form of of aa crown crown with to the pan, fried Pour over over them them the the juices juices from from the pan, to fried cro0tons. croûtons. Pour Cognac have which which 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Cognac have been been sauce cup) Poivrade dl. $ added, added, togethei together with with l{ li dl. (i pint, pint, 3 ~ cup) Poivrade sauce Season stock. Season (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Alternatively, Alternatively, use use aa rich rich brown brown stock. g. (3 75 g. heat, 75 juice and from the add, away with lemonjuice and add, away from the heat, (3 with aa little little lemon with dish with the dish of the the centre centre of Garnish the oz., oz., 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Garnish in butter. sautEed in sliced mushrooms sautéed butter. sliced mushrooms DE poiwade. CÔTELETTES cOTELErrEs DE (venison) chops cutlets poivrade. or cutlets chops or Roebuik Roebuck (veoison) poIvRADE or in oil oil or or cutIets cutlets in chops or the chops Saut6 the cITEvREUIL CHEVREUIL POIVRADE -- Sauté juices in pan and and in the the pan to the the juices wine vinegar vinegar to little wine butter. butter. Add Add aa !ittle in the the (see SAUCE). the cutlets cutlets in Arrange the SAUCE). Arrange sauce (see some Poivrade Poivrade sauce sorne Attach crottons. Attach fried croûtons. with fried them with alternating them crown aIternating form of aa crown form bone. paper frill cutlet bone. frill to each each cutlet aa paper cOTELETTES la romaine. romaine. CÔTELETTES (venison) chops cutlets ài la or cutlets chops or Roebuck (veoison) in oil. oil. cutlets or cu chops or the chops Saut6 nou,uNr -- Sa i LA rlr ROMAINE DE CHEVREUIL cHEvRBuIr À DE u té the tlets in with alternating with crown, alternating of aa crown, form of in the the form Arrange them them in Arrange (see sauce (see Romaine sauce with Romaine them with Cover them in butter. Cover fried in crottons fried croûtons juices in pan, which have which have in the the pan, the juices with the combined with SAUCE) combined SAUCE) wine. white wine. little white with aa little de-glazed with been de-glazed (see CHESTNUTS). purCe (see CHESTNUTS). with Chestnut Chestnut purée Serve with DE cOTELETTES DE d'Uzis. CÔTELETTES cutlets d'Uzès. (venison) chops or cuUets chope or Roebuck (veoison) Roebuck quickly in in oil. oil. cutlets quickly or cutlets chops or the chops Saut6 the o'uzts -- Sauté cITEvRBUTL D'UZÈS CHEVREUIL heartwith heartalternating with crown, alternating of aa crown, form of in the the form them in Arrange them Arrange with dish with of the the dish centre of Fill the the centre in butter. butter. FiJI fried in shaped croûtons crofitons fried shaped with cutlets with the cutlets Cover the (see POT POTATOES). potatoes (see Daiphine potatoes Dauphine ATOES). Cover the of the bottom of the bottom scrape the way: scrape following way: in the the following sauce made made in aa sauce which 44 to which and to cooked and have been been cooked pan in cutlets have the cutlets in which which the pan added. been added. have been vinegar have wine vinegar (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) wine iablespoons (5 tablespoons brown rich brown generous cup) cup) rich (scant iI pint, pint, generous dl. (scant 2| dl. with 2i Moisten with Moisten add down; add Boil down; cream.Boil lf cups) cups) cream. dl. (~pint, and 33 dl. veal stock stock and veal $ pint, li pass through sievethrough aasieve. and pass heat, and from the the heat, away from butter, away butter, has been been which has rind which orange rind tablespoon orange sauce add add 1I tablespoon To this this sauce To tablespoons(3(3 and drained, drained, 22 tablespoons blanched and strips, blanched into tiny tiny strips, cut into cut bydipping dippinginin peeledby have been been peeled which have alnonds which tablespoons) almonds tablespoons) tablespoons (3(3 and 22 tablespoons oven, and the oven, dried inin the and dried hot water water and hot orange littleorange Add aalittle into strips. strips.Add gherkins, cut cut into tablespoons) gherkins, tablespoons) pepp€r. ground pepper. juice, and freshlyground withfreshly and season season with juice, DE MIGNoNSDE FILETS MIGNONS mignons. FILETS filets mignons. venison filets or veoison Roebuck or Roebuck the denotesthe 'filetsmignons' mignons' denotes principle term'filets theterm Inprincip cIrEvREtrIL - - In CHEVREUIL le the the onthe thebone boneon under the foundunder which isisfound ofmeat meatwhich thin tongue of th in tongue of filletsof thebig bigfiIIets fromthe becut cutfrom also be canalso Thesecan animal's sadd saddle. animal's le. These the the saddle. saddle. larded arelarded thefillets beaten,the lightly beaten, andlightly fiUets are After trimmed and beingtrimmed After being butter porkand andsautéed saut6edininbutter saltpork ofsalt orstrips stripsof lardoonsor with with thin thinlardoons (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see Poivradesauce with Poivrade grilled,and servedwith andserved or oroil, oil,or orgriIIed, pur6eofchestnuts. and andaapurée ofchestnuts. forRoebuck Roebuck preparedasasfor beprepared alsobe canalso filletscan The The Ettle littleflUets

Roebuck cullets chestnuts with chestnuts cutlets with

pe Roebuck cdrernrrEs DE Conti. CÔTELETTES cuflets Conti. or cuUets chops or Roebuck (venison) chops same in the the same cutlets in or cutlets chops or the chops - Prepare the (see poivrade (see way as (venison) chops cutlets poivrade or cutlets chops or as for for Roebuck Roebuck (venison) below). centre Fill the the centre crown. FiII of aa crown. the form form of them in the below). Arrange them 1 of the dish with a Lentil purée PURÉE). Cover cutlets the cutlets (seePUREE). Cover the of the dish w ith a I'entil purie (see with (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Poivrade sauce sauce (see with Poivrade Roebuck os c6rel,nrrEs DE (venison) chops la crème. crdme. CÔTELETTES cutlets ài la chops or or cuUets Roebuck (venison) CHEVREUIL salt with salt or cutlets cutlets with chops or the chops Season the A LA ll CRÈME cntun -- Season cITEVREUIL À 1 and them. Drain them. quickly in butter. Drain in butter. paprika. Sauté them quickly and paprika. Saut6 them Arrange fried croûtons. crottons. with fried crown with form of of aa crown them in in the the form Arrange them Pour way: prepared in the foIIowing following way: in the sauce prepared cream sauce Pour over over them them aa cream for Madeira cup) Madeira (6 tablespoons, scant iI cup) tablespoons, scant pour 11 dl. dl. (6 for 66 cutlets cutlets pour into the Scrape the sauteed. Scrape been sautéed. have been cutlets have pan in the cutlets in which which the into the the pan pan juices of and then then wine, and the wine, with the meat with of the the meat pan to blend the the juices to blend boil cups) thick Boil cream. Boil fresh cream. pint, li thick fresh llcups) dl. (i down. Add Add 33 dl. boil down. $ pint, for juice, strain through aa strain through little lemon lemon juice, Add aa !ittle for aa few few minutes. minutes. Add sieve. (see CHESTNUTS). purie (see CHESTNUTS). with Chestnut Chestnut purée Servewith sieve. Serve Roebuck grapes. CÔTELETTES cOrELErrEs with grapes. or cuUets cutlets witb (venison) chops chopo or Roebuck (venison) DE very invery cutlets in orcutlets chops or the chops Saut6 the RAIstNs - Sauté AUx RAISINSDE CHEVREUIL cI{EvREUIL AUX hot with alternating with crown, alternating ofaacrown, form of in the theform Arrange them them in hot oil. oil. Arrange fried been havebeen cutlets have thecutlets panin inwhich whichthe thepan into the Put into fried croûtons. cro0tons. Put cooked been have been grapeswhich which have andseeded seeded grapes some skinned skinned and cooked sorne soaked per grapesper tengrapes allowing ten beforehand,allowing Cognac beforehand, in aalittle little Cognac soaked in cutlet. (seeSAUCE), too nottoo SAUCE), not sauce(see Poivradesauce with Poivrade Moisten with cutlet. Moisten strong, the sauceover overthe thissauce Pourthis stock. Pour brown stock. with rich rich brown strong, or or with cutlets. cutlets. Roebuck berries. withjuniper (venison)chops cutletswith chopsor orcutlets Roebuck (venison) iuniper berries. CÔTELETTES or chops or thechops Saut6the lu GENIÈVRE crNrtvnr- -Sauté DECHEVREUIL cHEVREuITAU c0rslrrrEs DE cutlets crown, formofofaacrown, theform them ininthe Arrange them butter. Arrange cutlets ininoil oilor orbutter. aIternating over Pourover butter. Pour friedininbutter. cro0tonsfried with croûtons themwith alternatingthem them of tablespoons of pan,totowhich which22tablespoons thepan, released ininthe the juices released them thejuices gin pint'scant cup) scantcup) dl.(1(lpint, with22dl. Moistenwith ginhave added.Moisten have been beenadded. fresh Poivrade cup)Poivrade scantt *cup) tablespoons,scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, ireshcream creamand· and1Idl. sauce juniperberries berries(1(l crushedjuniper fewcrushed (seeSAUCE), addingaafew SAUCE),adding sauce(see or few fora afew Boilfor of lemon juice.Boil dropsofiemonjuice. somedrops percutlet), cutlet),and andsorne or22per ! moments; sieve. moments;sieve. Serve swpetened. slightlysw~etened. veryslightly onlyvery pur6eof applesonly ofapples withaapurée Servewith CHEVREUIL cHEvREIJIL CONTI coNTI -

1

1

(venison)chops cutlets. chopsor orcutlets. (venison) Prepared cI{EvREtnr - -Prepared (venison)hash. nlcns DEDECHEVREUIL hash.HACHIS Roebuck Roebuck (veoison) ground ofground (seeHASH, Hashof HASH,Hash venison(see with roebuck ororvenison withcold coldroebuck gamestock. stock. browngame thickbrown withaathick game\.The moistened with game). Thehash hashisismoistened DECHEVREUIL cI{EVREUIL (venison).CUISSOT, GIGLIEDE cu$sor,GIGUE Haunch roebuck(veoison). Haunch ofofroebuck coversit.it. whichcovers skinwhich thinskin thethin removingthe - -Trim haunch,removing Trimthe thehaunch, stripsofof lardingbacon baconororththin Lard in strips stripsofoflarding narrowstrips Lardititwith withnarrow (See spit.(See thespit. ovenororononthe theoven salt pork.Roast Roastitit ininthe saltpork. roasts.) timesforroasts.) cookingtimesfor Averagecooking CULINARY METHODS,Average CULINARYMETHODS, sauce othersauce anyother sauceorotany Serve Poivradesauce separatelya aPoivrade Serveseparately pur6eand and (seeSAUCE), chestnutpurée game(see SAUCE),chestnut appropriate furredgame appropriatetotofurred jelly. gooseberry gooseberryjeIly. cHEvRilnL- NoIsErrEsDEDECHEVREUIL (venison)noisettes. Roebuck noisettes.NOISETTES Roebuck(venison) taken alsobebetaken butcan canalso loin,but theloin, These fromthe takenfrom aretaken littlecuts cutsare These!ittle fillets. saddlefiUets. thesaddle fromthe the haunch from haunchororfrom endofofthe theupper upperend fromthe shape. ovalshape. roundororoval They thick,inina around ratherthick, cutrather Theyshould shouldbebecut

779 779

ROGNONNADE ROGNONNADE They are cooked in the same way as for Roebuck (venison) They are cooked in the same chops or cutlets, and are accompanied by all the sauces and chops or cwlets, and are a........ u,,'!-'~"U'A1 garnishes indicated for these. garnishes indicated for thesc. Roebuck (venison) pie. rArf DE crrEVREr.Jn - prepared with Roebuck (veoison) pie. PÂTÉ DE CHEVREUlL - Prepared with strips of roebuck or venison and game forcemeat in the same strips of roebuck or veoison and game forcemeat În the same way as Rabbit pie (see PIE). as (sec PIE). Saddleof roebuck (venison). srrrr ou crnvpcurr- The word (yenison). S~LLE DE CHEVREUlL- The word 'saddle'applies only to that part of the animal which is found 'sadd le' applies only to that pan of the animal whîch is found between the loin and the haunch. However, one can leave the between the loin and the haunch. However, one can leave the two loins adhering to the joint, cutting the ribs very short. (Wo loins adheriug to the joint, cutting tbe ribs very short. Remove the sinewy parts of the meat and lard it with strips Remove the sinewy of the meat and lard it with of larding bacon or salt pork. Roast it in the oven or on the of Jarding bacon or pork. Roast it in the oven or on spit (see CULINARY METHODS, Average cooking times spÎt (sec CULINARY METHODS, Average cookillg limes

ROMAINE ororCOS LETTUCE - -Variety COS LETTUCE Variety ofJeuuce of lettucewith withfirm firm ROMAINE leaves, mostly mostlyeaten eaten ininsalad. salad.Legend Legendsays says that thatititwas wasRabelais Rabelais leaves, who imported imported this this variety variety into into France. France. IlIt isiscalled calledCos Cos inin who England. England. ROMALOUR -- See SeeCHEESE. CHEESE. ROMALOUR ROMANEE - - AA great great wil1e wine from from the the commune commune of of VosneVosneROMANÉE Romanee.There There are are three three distinct distinct types, types, the theRomanée, Roman6e, the the Romanée. Romanee-Conti and and the the Romanée-Saint-Vivant. (See Roman6e-Saint-Vivant. (Sec Romanée-Conti BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY.) ROMANOV -- See See GARNISHES. GARNISHES. ROMANOV ROOK. FREUX FREUX -- A A kind kind of of crow, crow, which which isis sometimes sometimes eaten eaten ROOK. after itit has has been been skinned. skinned. after pArE pie. PÂTÉ DE Rook pie. oe CORBEAU coRBEAU -- Rook pie, in Rook pie, in spite of of whatthe what the Rook sceptics and and the the incredulous incredulous may may think, think, îsis aa dish which, which, ifif sceptics properly prepared, prepared, isis not not to to be be despised. It isis only prepared despised. It only prepared properly with fledglings fledglings straigbt straight from from the the nest. 'There are nest. 'There are certain certain rules rules with which ilit isis absolutely absolutely necessary necessary to to follow follow to to achieve achieve aa good which result. Firsl First of of ail, all, the the rooks rooks are are not not plucked, the the birdi are resull. drawn and and only only the the breast breast il> is retained. retained. The legs are tough and drawn the carcase carcase bitter. bitter. the 'Having washed washed the the breasts, breasts, they are left left to to soak soak in in milk milk for for 'Having hours; they they are are then cut cut up up and the pieces are the pieces are arranged arranged in in aa 66 hours; pie dish, dish, and and seasoned, seasoned, sparing sparing neither neither pepper norspices. nor spices. The The pie bottom of the dish of the dish should should be lined with be lined with sorne some slices slices of beef. of beef. bottom Strips of placed on ofbacon are placed on top of pieces of ofthe ofrook, and bacon are the pîeces rook, and halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs are are distributed here and and there. there. This This pie 1S is then covered with aa sheet pastry and put put in the oven sheet of pastry pie then covered for li l| hours. hours. for 'When the is taken out of of the oven a little little good stock to 'When the pie pie is taken out which quantity of small quantity of half-glaze which aa small balf-g1aze is added, is poured into the the pie.' pie.' (Alfred (Alfred Suzanne, la Cuisine et la pdtisserie pâtisserie anglaise.)

roasts).

for roasIS). for Serve with Poivrade sauce (see SAUCE) or any other Serve with Poivrade sauce (see SAUCE) or any other appropriate sauce for furred game, with Chestnut purie (see sauce for furred game, with Chestnui purée (see CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. and gooseberry je!ly. Roebuck (venison) saddle A l,allemande. sELLE DE crrEvREUrL Roebllck (venison) saddle Il l'aUemande. SELLE OF. CHEvREUIL A L'ALLEMANDE - Trim and lard the saddle. Marinate for 12 À L'ALLEMANDE - Trim and lard Ihe saddle. Marinale for 12 hours in an uncooked marinade (q.v.). Dry the meat and hours in an uncooked marinade Dry the meat and roast it in a rather narrow roasting tin on a foundation of the roast it in a rather narrow roasting on a foundation of the vegetables

from the

(See

marinade. (See CULINARY CULINARY vegetables from the marinade. METHODS. Average cooking timesfor roasts). METHODS. Average cooking roas/s). When it is cooked set it on a dish and keep warm. Add a When it is cooked set it on a and warm. Add a little of the liquor from the marinade juices and marinade to to the juices and Iittle of the liquor from the vegetables in the baking tin. Boil down almost completely. vegetables in the baking tin. Boil down almost completely. Add 3+ dl. (generous f pint, 1| cups) cream. Boil down by Add dl. t piut, li cups) cream. Boil down by one-third. Add I tablespoon dissolved meat gaze or double 1 lablespoon dissolved meat glaze or double consomm6. Pass the sauce through a strainer and serve with consommé. Pass the sauce through a strainer and serve with the

joint.

the joint. Roebuck (venison) saddle grand veneur. SELLE DE crrEvREUrL Roebuck (venison) saddle wand veneur. SELLE DE CHEVREUIL cRAND vENEUR Lard the saddle with strips of larding bacon GRAND VENEUR - Lard the saddle witb slrips oflarding bacon or salt pork. Roast it in the manner described above and or salt park. Roast it in the manner described above and arrange on a serving dish. Garnish with braised chestnuts and Garnish with braised chestnuts and Dauphine potatoes (see POTATOES) arranged in clumps at POT ATOES) arranged in clumps at each end ofthe dish. Serve with Grandveneur (see Serve wjth Grand veneur sauce sauce (sec SAUCE). SA UCE). Sliced roebuck (venison) with various sauces. emNcfs on SUced roebuck (venison) with various sauces, EMTNCÉS DE cHEvRETJTL - Prepare with cold roebuck or venison in the CHEVREUIL - Prepare with cold roebuck or venison in the same way as for sliced lamb or beef with various sauces. same as for sliced lamb or heef with various sauces. Cover the slices of meat with poivrade sauce, Grand veneur Cover slices of meat with Poivrade sauce, Grand veneur sauce, or Chasseur sauce (see SAUCE). Serve with Chestnut sauce, or Chasseur sauce (sec SAUCE). Serve with Chesznul purie (see CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. purée (sec CHESTNUTS) and gooseberry jelly. ROGNONNADE - Cut of veal to which the kidney has been ROGNONNADE - Cut of veal ta which the kidney has been left adhering. This piece is roasted or baked. left adhering. This piece is roasted or baked.

ROOT. Name used of vegetable ROOT. RAvE RAVE - Name used for for a category category of vegetable plants, whose swollen (see TURNIp). In whose subterranean sublerranean parts parts are are swollen (see TURNTP). cookery turnip, kohl-rabi, cookery those those mostly used used are are turnip, kohl-rabi, beetroot, carrot, carrot, celeriac celeriac and and radish. ROPINESS. ROPINESS. cRArssE GRA1SSE DEs ms vrxs VINS -- A A defection peculiar peculiar to white white wines. wînes. It It is is encountered encountered especially in in the white wbite wines wines of of the Cher, Cher, Poitou, Poitou, Orl6ans Orléans and and Champagne districts. districts. This This generally geoerally occurs oœurs as aa result of pressing pressing the the grapes as as soon Soon as as they they are are gathered. gathered, The The must must enclosed enclosed in in the vats vats ferments ferments independently independently of of the the skin, slUn, pips pips and stalks, stalks, which which provide provide the the tannin tannin need need to to clarify clarify the the must. must. At At the the clarification clarification stage, stage, the the gelatinous gelatinous and and albuminous albuminous elements elements remain remain in in suspension, suspension, which which leaves leaves the the wines wines cloudy. cloudy. At At this this stage, stage, the the remedy remedy is Îs to to put put tannin tannin in in the the cask. cask. This This not not only only causes causes the the sediment sediment in in the the wine wine to to settle, seUle, but but also also separates out out the the fish fish glue which whîch has has been been added added as as aa clarifying agent, and which will will not not be he found found in in the the next next

ROI DES CNLLES (King of quails) - popular name for rhe ROI DES CAILLES (King quails) name for the land rail. This bird was so called because it appeared at the land rail. This bird was so called bccause appeared at the same time as the quails and disappeared at the same time as sa me lime as the quails and disappearcd at the same timc as they did. Formerly it was believed that it directed the quails in they did. Formerly il was believed that it direcled tbe quails in their flight. For cooking instructions see eUAIL. their flighL For cooking instructions see QUAIL.

or

clarification The The proportion proportion of of tannin tannin to to be be used used with with ropy ropy wine wine is is 15 15

ROLL OUT. ABATsSER - To spread out pastry or any other ROLL OUT. ABA1SSER - To spread out pastry or any other mixture (puff pastry, short pastry, sw-et pastry, almond

to to 30 30 g. g. per per hectolitre hectolitre (100 (100 litres). litres).

mixture (puff pastry, short pastry, swect pastry, almond paste, etc.) with the aid of a rolling-pin in one uniform strip of paste, etc.) with the aid of a rolling-pin in one uniform strip of varylng thinness. In the case of a biscuit or sponge, we say varying thinness. ln the case of a biscuit or sponge, we say that it is divided in slices of the same thickness. or abaissei. tbat it is divided in slices of the same thickness, or abaisses. For the method see DOUGH. For the method see DOUGH.

ROLLMOPS

ROQUEFORT ROQUEFORT CHEESE CHEESE-- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

ROQUILLE ROQUIllE -- French French culinary culinary term term for for orange orange peel. peel. These These skins skinsare arecandied candied and and used used ininconfectionery. confectionery.

ROLLMOPS -- Fillets of of herrings herrings prepared prepared in in aa highly hîghly seasoned marinade, generally based on white wine, then seasoned marinade, generally based on white winc, then rolled around gherkins and pinned with a wooden skewer to rolled around gherkins and pinned with a wooden skewer ta hold them. Rollmops are served as hors-d'euvre. hold lhem. Rollmops are served as hors-d'œuvre.

Fillets

ROSEMARY. ROSEMARY. noumrN ROMARIN-- Perennial Perennial evergreen, evergreen, reaching reaching55ft. fI. inin height, height, with with narrow narrow hard hard leaves, leaves, green green above above and and grlyish grcyish below, below, with wÎth aa strongly strooglyaromatic aromatic smell. sme]L The Theleaves, leaves, fresh fresh and and dried, dried,are areused usedininseasoning. seasoning.

ROLLOTSee CHEESE. ROLLOT - Sec CHEESE.

ROSETTE ROSETTE -- Name Name given given to to aa special special sausage sausage of of the the first tirs! quality qualitymade madeininthe theLyons Lyonsdistrict, district, which whichisiseaten eatenuncooked. uncooked. (See (SeeSAUSAGE.) SAUSAGE.)

ROLY-POLY PUDDING

ROLY-POLY PUDDING -- Pudding Pudding made made of ofsuet suet pastry paSlry spread with jam, rolled in the shape of a sausage, and cooked spread with jam, rolled in the of a sausage, and cooked in water. (See PUDDING, Engldsh suet roll pudding.) in water. (See PUDDING. SIIel roll pudding.)

ROSSINI ROSSINI-- See SeeGARNISHES. GARNISHES. 780 780

ROUSSETTE

ROUSSETTE

ROSSOLLoT ROSSOLL orROSOLIOROSOLIO -Liqueurformerly Liqueur formerlymade madefrom fromthe the sundew sundewplant. plant. ROTA ROTA - Wine Wine from from the the north north of of Spain, Spain, much much used used inin

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blending. blending.

ROTENGLE ROTENGLE-- Freshwater Freshwaterfish, fish,better betterknown knownininFrance Franceasas gardon gardon rouge. rouge. Its Itsbody bodyisis aa little littledeeper deeperand and less lesselongated elongated ihan thanthe thecommon commonroach. roach.ItIthas hasaabright brightred redeye eyeand anditsitsfins finsare are red redand andpink. pink.ItItisiscooked cookedlike likeroach roach(q.v.). (q.v.). ROTIE RÔTIE(Toast) (Toast)-- Slice Sliceofofbread breadbaked bakedor ortoasted. toasted. R6ties Rôties (pieces (pieœs of of toast) toast) are are buttered buttered and and served served with with

breakfast,iea, Thesame samename nameisisgiven giventotocanapis canapésspread spread breakfast, tea,etc. etc.The with with forcemeat forcemeat which which are are served served with with game game birds, birds, roasts roasts inin general general and and woodcock woodcock and and snipe snipe in in particular, particular, and and to to small small snacks snacks made made by by putting putting an an egg egg or or some sorne kind kind of ofspread spread on on aa slice slice of oftoasted toasted or or fried fried bread. bread. ROTISSERIE RÔTISSERIE -- Part Part of of the the kitchen kitchen specially specially equipped equipped for for preparing preparingroasts. roasts. ItIt isis also also the the word word given givento to modern modern portable portable designed appliances appliances designed to to roast roast meat meat on on aa spit. spit. 'fy work done done by by the the By extension, extension, the the word word also also describes describes the the work cheiin chefin this this special special section section in in the the big big catering cateringestablishments, esta blishments, aa specialist specialist in in all aIl the the work work of ofthe the ritisserie. rôtisserie. riltissettr) as The The rôtisseur, as he he is is called, caIled, is is employed employed not not only only in in roasting roasting but but also also in in grilling grilling and and frying. frying. kr In the the most most important important rltisserie is establishments establishments the rôtisserie is divided divided into into three three parts, parts, each each having having a a specialist specialist in in charge: charge: the the riltisseur rôtisseur proper, proper, the the the fri tur ie r. ggri//ardin r ill ar din and thefriturier. Certain Certain specialised specialised places, places, where where all aIl kinds kinds of of spit-roasted spit-roasted are also sold, are poultry are cooked and sold, also called called rdtisseries' rôtisseries. across the slice across fairly thick This is of veal. This ROUELLE-- Cut ofveal. ROUELLE is aa fairly thick slice the leg.

CHEESE. ROUENNAIS-- See CHEESE. ROUENNAIS

hot in hot popular in very popular of seasoning seasoning very form of A form ROUGAIL -- A style. cre6le style. in the the Creole cooked in dishes cooked in various dishes used in countries, used countries, appetite. the appetite. stimulates the spicy itit stimulates very spicy Being very to the the belong to given below below belong are given which are recipes which ioigoit recipes nUlne AlI the rougai/ cookery. Cr6ole cookery. of Créole repertoire of repertoire Cut 44 vsnrEs -- Cut PoMMEs VERTES DE POMMES RoucAIL DE green apples. apples. ROUGAIL of green itougril of Rougail of bowl a into them putting dice i-n tiny peeledgreen"apples peeled green apples in tiny dice putting them into a bowl of water. salted water. salted to squeezing to napkin, squeezing in aa napkin, put them them in and put dice and apple dice the apple Drain the Drain have you will will have where you dish where in aa dish Put them them in water. Put the water. all the extract aIl extract with aa smoothly with pounded smoothly ginger, pounded and ginger, pimentos and layer of of pimentos set aa layer set oil. olive oil. little olive little lemon of lem squeeze of add aasqueeze enoughadd sharp enough notsharp are not If the theaapples If pples are on juice. juice. D'AUBERGINES (eggplants). phnts). ROUGAlL RouGArL D'AUBERGINESofaubergines aubergines(egg Rougail of Rougail of slice of mortar 1Islice Poundininaamortar water. Pound saltedwater. Boil2-aubergines Boil2 aubergines ininsalted pimento seasoned little pimento glngerand andaalittle pieceof ofginger t.itl piece onion,a smàll onion, -seasoned " Put lemon withlemon dilute ititwith plate and and dilute onaaplate mixture on Putthis tliismixture salt. withsalt. with split aubergines, split cooked aubergines, thecooked outthe juiceand Takeout oil.Take goodolive oliveoil. andgood juice add andadd seeds,and theseeds, removed the havingremoved flesh,having theflesh, outthe ."o6pout ih.-,scoop them, withaa mashingwith sauce' mashing preparedsauce, theprepared little,totothe tittteby bylittIe, tnem,!ittle them, paste. reducedtotoaapaste. completelyreduced arecompletely auberginesare thatthe theaubergines forksosothat fork dish. intoananhors-d'euvre Turninto Turn hors-d'œuvre dish. ET DE MoRUEET DEMORUE RoUGAILDE tomatoes.ROUGAIL andtomatoes. codand saltcod Rougeilofofsalt DE Rougail water coolwater soakinginincool bysoaking codby saltcod small De-salta asm rorulrrs- -De-salt aIl salt TOMATES bones' and skin RemoveaIlallskin and bones. wanted.Remove beforeititisiswanted. eveningbefore theevening the brown andbrown Flourand pieces'Flour smallpieces. cutininsmall andcut clothand witha icloth Drywith Dry pan' thepan. sideofofthe oneside Pushtotoone fat.Push andfat. panwith withoiloiland lightlyinina apan lightly not donot theydo thatthey heatsosothat lowheat overlow onionsover choppedonions C-oot3 foror4 4chopped Cook stew andstew tomatoes,and deseededtomatoes, peeledand anddeseeded fieihpeeIed Add4 4fresh colour.Add colour. garlic,sorne some glnger,1 clove I clovegarlic, someginger, gently.Pound Poundsorne togethergently. themtogether them thjs Incorporatethis pimento'Incorporate smallpimento. and1 1small iomeparsley thyme,sorne thyme, farstiyand about4040 forabout Cookfor cod.Cook gentlysimmering simmeringcod. ihegently withthe .i*toi.with mixture

then put the pan (still covered) in the oven, and leave minutes, minutes, then put the pan (still covered) in the oven, and leave 20 minutes. ititfor for 20 minutes. Serve with rice.

Serve with rice.

DE cREVETTES of shrimps or prawns. RoUGAIL Rougeil Rougail of shrimps or prawns. some ROUGAlL DE CREVETTES shrimps or prawnsthe heads and tails from Remove Remove the heads and tails from sorne shrimps or prawns and fry them in fat. Shell them. and fry them in fat. Shell them. in a mortar onion with a small piece of ginger and Cruin Crush in a mortarI t onion with a small piece of ginger and pimento. Season with salt. salt. ^pimento. Season withlittle by little, pounding all the time' Add the shrimps, Add the shrimps, little by little, pounding aIl the time. all is reduced to a paste, add 2 small tomatoes that have when When aIl is reduced to a paste, addjuice 2 small thatwell' have lemon' Mix of atomatoes been cooked in the oven, and the of a lemon. Mix weIl. been cooked in the oven, and the juicedish' the mixture into an hors-d'euvre Turn Turn the mixture into an hors-d'œuvre dish. This rougail is served alone or with fish curry' Often, when

This rougail is served alone or with fish curry. Often, when the rougail is made, it is reheated with olive oil in a frying pan' the rougail is made, it is reheated with olive oil in a frying pan. of raw tomatoes. RouGArL DE ToMATES cRUEs Rougail Rougail of raw tomatoes. ROUGAlL DE TOMATES CRUES Pound_a little onion with a piece of ginger the size of a walnut.

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Pound a little onion with a piece of ginger the size of a walnut. peeled and seeded tomatoes and mash all togethcr' Add Add peeled and seeded tomatoes and mash aIl together. juice' of lemon a squeeze and pimento some Incorporate Incorporate sorne pimento and a squeeze of lemon juice. Serve in anhors-d'auvre dish' Serve in an hors-d'œuvre dish. creole dishes served with rice. accompanies This This seasoning seasoning accompanies Créole dishes served with rice. The French common name for RMERE DE ROUGE ROUGE DE RIVIÈRE -- The French common name for the Shoveller duck. This bird, whose flesh is succulent, is the Shove//er duck. This bird, whose flesh is succulent, is nearly always roasted. (See DUCK' Wildduck') nearly always roasted. (See DUCK, Wi/d duck.) See CHEESE. ROUGERETROUGERET - See CHEESE.

ROLL Rolled piece of veal or pork' ROULADE, ROULADE, ROLL -- Rolled piece ofveal or pork. A thin slice of meat spread with some kind of forcemeat and A thin slice ofmeat spread with sorne kind offorcemeat and rolled into a sausage is also known as roulade' rolled into a sausage is also known as roulade.

This term is also applied to various preparations, mostly of

This term is also applied to various preparations, mostly of pork or veal, made ffe galantines (q.v.). Thts roulade de t?te -d" pork or veal, made like galantines (q.v.). Thusstuffed rouladewith de têtea pig's head, boned, porc describes a de porc describes a pig'spig's head, boned, stuffed with a and bacon tongue, streaky for&meat of chopped-up forcemeat of chopped-up pig's tongue, streaky bacon and ingredients, iolled like 'boar's head' and cooked in a other other ingredients, rolled like 'boar's head' cooked in a de veau of noix sliceand jelly stoJk; roulade de veau describes a slice of noix demixed veau jelly stock; roulade de veau describes a of kind, some forcemeat spread with a f"tt"ord, spread *dl fattened, weIl with a forcemeat of sorne kind, mixed with meat cut in small dice, rolled into a galantine and braised

a galantine and braised with meat cut in small dice, roUed into or poached in white court-bouillorn (q.v'). or poached in white court-bouillon (q.v.). Rolled-out sheet of biscuit (cake) mixture, spread ROULf -- Rolled-out ROULÉ sheet of biscuit (cake) mixture, spread with thick jam, then rolled. The top is sprinkled with praline with thick jam, then rolled. The top is sprinkled with praline and toasted almonds. and toasted almonds. (Pastry wheel) - A small toothed wheel, in ROULETTE (Pastry ROULETTE wheel) - A small toothed wheel, in metal, mounted free on a handle, and used to cut or wood wood or metal, mounted free on a handle, and used to cut pastry. pastry.

Roulette

(U.S.) or SILVERSIDE (G.B.). cirs A LA NoIx ROUND (V.S.) ROUND or SILVERSIDE (G.B.). GÎTE À LA NOIX leg-of beef. This cut includes in particular the thl Part of Part of the leg of beef. This cut includes in particular the (p"tttendon, tendon, part membrane) and part of the tendons(part tendons part membrane) and part of the femoral biceps, the gemellus muscle, the pyramidal and the femoral biceps, the gemellus muscle, the pyramidal and the crural square. crural square. This cut is used chiefly in hot-pots, and it may also be This cut is used chiefly in hot-pots, and it may also be braised. braised. In Paris and other large French cities, it is sold larded, ln Paris and other large French cities, it is sold larded, rolled and tied. rolled and tied. ROUSSELET. (Rnsset pear) Summer pear, so named ROUSSELET. (Russet pear) - -Summer pear, so named because its skin is russet colour. The flesh is sweet and well because its skin is russet colour. The fiesh is sweet and weil flavoured. fiavoured. This pear is mostly preserved by drying. This pear is mostly preserved by drying. Name given to a kind of fritter in certain ROUSSETTE- -Name ROUSSETTE given to a kind of fritter in certain 781 781

ROUSSETTE regions of France, which in other places known asmerveille regions of France, which in other places isisknown as merveille or oreillette. It is made in this wav: or oreillette. It is made in this way: Make a rather thick dough of SOO g. (lg o2.,4|cups) sifted Make a rather thick dough of 500 g. (18 oz., sifted flour, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) milk, I iablesflour, 3 eggs, 2 tablespoons (3 tat,les;poOns) tablespoon orange-blossom water, I small glass brandy and a pinch orange-blossom water, 1 sm ail of salt. Gather up the dough into ball, wrap it in a cloth and leave Gather up the dough into aabail, wrap it in a c10th and leave it to rest in a cool place for hours. it to rest in a cool place for 33hours. Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut out with a plain round Roll out into a thin sheet, and cut out with a round pastry cutter. Drop into hot deep fat. Drain the rousettes pastry cutter. Drop into hot deep fat. Drain TOusettes when they are well browned and crisp. Sprinkle with sugar when they are weil browned and crisp. Sprinkle with sugar and arrange in a mound on a napkin. and arrange in a mound on a napkin.

ROUSSILLON See See LANGUEDOC LANGUEDOC AND AND ROUSROUS-

ROUSSILLON SILLON.

SILLON.

ROUSSIR - To turn in smoking hot butter, or other fat, a ROUSSIR - To tum in smoking hot butter, or other fat, a piece of meat or poultry, in order to colour it. order to colour il. piece ofmeat or poultry, in The word roussir cannot be translated in its proper sense, The word roussir cannot be translated in its proper sense,

colouredrums rumsare arebest bestsuited suitedfor grogsand forgrogs (on anddesserts desserts(on coloured accountoftheir powerfularoma). of theirpowerful aroma).This Thisisiswhy, why,until untilrecently, recently, account rumwas wasused usedmostly mostlyfor fordesserts dessertsand p6tisser,re.AAfew andpâtisserie. years fewyears rum ago,the theComité Comitinational gastronomic, (which nationaldedegastronomie, (whichorganises organisesan an ago, annualculinary culinarycompetition competitioncalled calledthe' the'poile d'or')dedicated dedicated annual Poêle d'or') theevent eventtotorecipes recipesbased basedon onrum. rum.This Thisencouraged encouraged the themore more the frequentuse useofrum of rumininthe theftavouring flavouring offish of fishand andmeat meatdishes, dishes, frequent etc.Sorne Someof ofthe therecipes recipesare givenbelow. aregiven below. etc. Filletsofburbot of burbotIlilalacréole. creole.FILETS FTLETsDE DELOTTE LorrgCRÉOLE cnforn- -Brown Brown Fillets somechopped choppedonion onionand andcarrots, carrots,and andsprinkle sprinklewith withflour. flour. sorne Placeininaapan pan with withaalittle littlelukewarm lukewarm water waterand andbring bring totothe Place the boil.Add quartered tomatoes, Addquartered tomatoes, thyme, thyme,bay bayleaf leafand garlic. andgarlic. boil. Seasonwith with salt. salt.Simmer Simmerthe thesauce, sauce,then thensieve sieveit.it.Add Add rum rum Season place the andan anequal equal amount amountof offresh freshcream. cream.Place filletsininaa thefillets and buttered serving servingdish pourthe dishand andpour thesauce sauceover. over. Bake Bakefor for1515 buttered minutes. minutes. Rabbitwith prunesand with prunes androm. rum.LAPIN LAprNAUX AUxPRUNEAUX rRTJNEAUXAU RHrrM AU RHUM Rabbit Steep250 (9 OZ., 250 g.g.(9 prunes for oz., cups) cups) prunes for22hours hours inin rum - Steep rum blended with with aa little little lukewarm water. water. Cut Cut up the blended the rabbit. rabbit. Brown the pieces in in oil oil with with diced diced bacon bacon and and onions.Add Add the the liquid in in which the prunes have the prunes have been been steeped, steeped, aabouquet bouquet garni, garni, salt and pepper,and and pepper, andsimmer simmer gently gently for for 45 45 minutes. minuteJ. Add AaA the tne drained prunes prunes and and simmer simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. drained Young guinea pTNTADEAux fowl ài l'antillaise. I'antlllaise. PINTADEAUX ÀA L'ANTILLAISE Young guinea fowl L',tNTrrllnE Clean, singe singe and and cut-up 22 guinea guinea fowl fowl into pieces. Brown into 88pieces. -- Clean, Brown quickly in these quickly in aa liule little butter, stirring stirring ail all the the time. time.When these When they they golden, add are golden, add chopped chopped onions, onions, aa clove garlic, and clove of of garlic, are and aa !ittle little flour. Moisten glasses of with 22 glasses of dry dry wine. wine. Add Add 22 tomatoes tomatoes cut flour. Moisten with cut quarters. Cover in quarters. Cover and and simmer simmer gently for for 20 in 20 minutes. minutes. Meanwhile, steep 44 slices slices ofpineapple of pineapple and 6 sliced sliced bananas Meanwhile, bananas in in white rum. rum. Fry 6 diced, diced, sweet sweet potatoes in in butter. white butter. Lightly Lightly brown the the sliced pinea pineapple and the bananas bananas in in aa frying pan. brown pp le and frying pan. Serve the pieces of the pieces guinea fowl of guinea fowl on pineappte slices. the pineapple on the Serve slices. Garnish with with the bananas and and potatoes. Skim Skim the Garnish the fat fat from from the the c.goking liquid and and boil boil down. down. Coat the guinea fowl the guinea cooking fowl with with it. it. (Rccipe of ' Maman' Olivier, paris.) Olivier, rue Médéric, M6d6ric, Paris.) pouLET Sfiffed cbicken. chicken. POULET FARCI FARcr - Make Make aa mixture mixture of of the the chicken's liver, sausage meat, meat, breadcrumbs soaked chicken's liver, sausage soaked in in milk, chopped onion, onion, salt, pepper, spices, salt, pepper, spices, chopped chopped chopped parsley and and fresh Stuffthe fresh cream. cream. Stuff the chicken with this mixture. hoastin the oven. When When cooked, sprinkle sprinkle with with rum oven. rum and flamber. Serve and flamber. with sweetcorn croquettes. croquettes. with sweetcorn

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because the meats so fried must be golden rathei thin russet. because the meats so fried must be golden rather th an russel. ROLIX - Mixture of butter or other fatty substance and ffour, ROUX - Mixture of butter or other cooked together for varying periods of time depending on its cooked together for varying periods final use. final use. The roux is the thickening element in sauces. The roux is the thickening element in sauces. There are three kinds of roux: white roux" blond roux and There are three kinds of roux: white roux, blond roux and brown rozx. brown roux. Brown roux is used to thicken rich brown sauces like Brown roux is used to thicken rich brown sauces like Espagnole and, Demi-glace (see SAUCE). It is made by Espagnole and Demi-glace (see SAUCE). It is made by cooking flour in clarified butter in the oven, gently and for a cooking flour in c1arified butter in the oven, gently and for a

long time, stirring frequently.

The clarified clarified fat fat from from aa long time, stirring frequently. The marmite (q.v.) may also be used, but in each case the marmite (q.v.) may also be used, but in each case the proportions are equal amounts by tablespoons of flour and .... r,·"-"-.rt.,,.,,, are equal amounts by tablespoons of flour and butter or fat. or fat. This roux should be of a good light brown colour. It can be This roux should be of a good light brown colour. It can be kept for quite a long time. kept for quite a time. Blond roux made only with butter. The proportions of Blond roux is is only with butter. The of butter and flour are the same as for brown ,oi*.itis cooked butter and flour are the same as for brown roux. is cooked more rapidly and it is only made at the moment it is needed. more rapidly and it is only made at the moment it is needed. Its colour should be a pale gold. Hs cof'our should be a pale gold. roux is used and, Veloutd * White White roux is used for for BCchamel Béchamel and Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and special thick soups. It is made by cooking flour and thick soups. It is made by cooking and clarified butter for 5 minutes over the heat and siirring for 5 minutes over the heat and stirring constantly with a wooden spoon. constantly with a wooden spoon. ROYALE ROYALE -- Moulded Moulded custard, custard, variously variously flavoured, flavoured, which which is is used as garnish in clear soup. (See GARNISHES.) used as garnish in c1ear soup. (See GARNISHES.)

l|

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RUMP. The fleshy part of RUMP. cul,orrs CULOTTEof the haunch haunch ofbeef, of beef, used - The made into ragofrts. ragoûts. (See (See BEEF.) BEEF.) Top Top ofrump. FoTNTE POINTE DE DE culorrE CULOTTE - piece Piece ofbeeftaken of beef ta ken from

in in hot-pots. hot-pots. This This cut can can also also be be braised and and

ROYALE (A f,^11 - Name given to different preparations, for LA) - Name given to different preparations, for example, to consomm6 garnished with custard shapes, and to example, to consommé garnished with custard shapes, and to various dishes, particularly of poultry, poached in very little various dishes, particularly of poultry, poached in very !ittle liquid, coated with Velouti sauce (see SAUCE) boiled down liquid, coated with Velouté sauce (see SAUCE) boiled down with cream and finished with cream and finished with with truffie trume pur6e purée and arid various various garnishes. garnishes. The same name is applied to sweets, hot and cold. The same name is applied to sweets, hot and cold.

the the rump. rump. (See BEEF.) BEEF.)

RUSCUS. RUSCUS. pRAc,oN PRAGON - Plant Plant similar to asparagus. asparagus. The best best krrown known variety variety is is butcher'i butcher's broom or knee-holly. knee-holly. The young young shoots shoots are are eatable eatable and and are are used used like like hop hop shoots. shoots.

RUSH. RUSH. JoNc JONC -- Most Most types of of reed reed belong belong to to the the rush rush family. family. The The scented scented Indian Indian tush, rattan, rattan, isis used used ai as aa spice spice in in the the Easi. East. The The root root of of the the scented scented Indian Indian rush rush is is used used in in infusion infusion as as aa carminative carminative and and appetite-stimulant. appetite-stimulanl. The The chopped chopped root root blenblended ded with with alcohol alcohol produces produces aa tincture tincture that that mayilso may also be be used used for for stomach stomach upsets. upsets.

ROYAII ROYAN -- AA kind kind of oflarge large sardine. sardine. RUM. The name rum or RUM.nnuu RHUM-- The namerum ortafia tafiaisisreserved reserved for for the thespirit spirit obtained obtained from from the the alcoholic alcoholic fermentation fermentation and and distillation distillation of of juice of sugar either either the the juice of sugar cane, cane, or or the the syrup syrup (molasses) (molasses)

obtained obtainedfrom from the theprocessing processingofcane of canesugar. sugar. Rum, Rum,like likeall ailspirits, spirits,isiscolourless colourless when whenititemerges emergesfrom from the the distilling distilling apparatus. apparatus. After After aa lengthy lengthy period period in in oak oak casks, casks, itit acquires a pale amber hue. The care (or lack of it) that goes acquires a pale amber hue. The care (or lack of it) that goes into into this this ageing process makes makes or or mars mars the the fineness fineness of ofrum. rum. Some'old rums'are Sorne arevalued val uedjust justas ashighly as asthe thefinest finestspirits. The colour of ordinary rum, on the other hand, is achievld by The colour of ordinary rum, on is the addition of artificial caramel colouring. the addition of artificial caramel col ou ring. White rum is used in preparation the White rum is used in the preparation of oftropical tropical drinks: drinks: punch, punch, Daiquiri, Daiquiri, Planter's Planter's rum, rum, etc. etc. Full-bodied. Full-bodied, amberamber-

RUSKS. RUSKS. BrscorrtsBISCOTTES - Slices Slices of ofspecial special bread, bread, cut cut from from the the loaf loaf and and re-baked re-baked in in the the oven. oven. Diet Dietrusks. rusks.BrscorrEs BISCOTTESDE DERfcrrr,c RÉGIME-- There Thereare arevarious various types typesof of rusks rusks in in the the shops, shops, of of different different degrees of of hardnesi hardness and and friability, friability, sweet sweet rusks rusks and and salty salt y rusks, etc. There There are are also also special rusks with withsalt saltcontent contentconpletely or orpartially partially specialtypes ofofrusks extracted, as well as rusks enriched with gluten, containing containing additional additionalcasein casein(legumen), (legumen),but butwith withreduced starch starchcontent. content. Others Othersare arevery veryrich richin instarch starch but buttheir theircontent contentin ingtuten glutenand and nitrogenous nitrogenouselements elementsisisreduced reducedto toaaminimum. minimum. 782 782

RYE RYE edges of They They are are found found in in summer summer and and autumn autumo on on the the edges of prepared woods, woods,ininfallow fallowland landand andnear oearbirch birchtrees. trees.They Theyare are prepared

Peris Parisrusks rusk.~. Blscorrrtt BISCOlTESPARISIBNNEs PARISIENNES-- Pound Pound 500 500g.g. (18 (18 oz., oz., generous generous 3{ J~ cups) cups) bitter bitter almonds almonds in in aa mortar, morlar, moistening moistening witn with Z2egg cgg whites whites and and 33tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant *i cup) cup) kirsch kirsch or or other otherliqueur. liqueur. paste, When Wh en the Ihe almonds almonds have have been beeo reduced reduced to 10 aa smooth smoolh pas le, put put itit into into aa bowl bowl and and add add to to itit l0 10 egg egg yolks, yolks, one one at at aa time, time, itirring wood en spoon. spoon. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2: cups) cups) stirring with with aa wooden salt, and castor castorsugar, sugar,aapinch pinchof ofsalt, and 88egg eggwhites whiteswhisked whisked to 10aastiff stiff froth. (7 oz., oz., generous generouscup) cup) potato potato flour. f1our. froth. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with 200 200 g.g. (7 Pipe Pipethii thismixture mixture through through aaforcing-bag forciog-bag onto ontobuttered buttered baking baking sheets and bake bake in in the the oven. oven. sheets and

like likemushrooms mushrooms(see (seeMUSHROOM). MUSHROOM).

yellowish RUTABAGA RUTABAGA, SWEET SWEET TURNIP TURNIP -- Turnip Turnip with with yellowish flesh, flesh, edible ediblebut butseldom seldom used used in inFrance Franceas as foodstuff. foodstuff.

after B -- The RYE. RYE. sptct SEIGLE The most mosl important important European European cereal cereal afler Alps wheat, wheat, originating originating in in the the region region between between the the Austrian Austrian Alps cold and and and the the Caspian Caspian Sea. Sea. Very Very hardy, hardy, very very resistant resistant to 10 cold and earlier earlier than than wheat, wheat, rye rye grows gTows in in the the worst worsl soils. soils.

mainly of Rye Rye flour, flour, rather rather greyish greyish in in colour, colom, consists consists mainly of

RUSSIA RUS!SIA -- See See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY.

gluten-casein. gluten-casein. ItIl has has little little agglutinative agglutinalive quality quality and and darkens darkens which is quickly. quickly. It It can can nevertheless nevertheless be be made made into into bread, bread, which is for a fresh keeps and brown brown in in colour, col our, has has an an agreeable agreeable taste taste and keeps fresh for a white bread. Rye than to digest difficult is more lo.ng time, but long Ume, but is more difficullto digest Ihan white bread. Rye flour flour isis used used to lo make make spiced spiced bread bread and and cakes. cakes.

RUSSULA. RUSSULA. RUssuLE RUSSULE -- Fungus Fungus with wilh white white flesh flesh and and aa pleasant pleasant flavour flavour known known in in various various regions regions of of France France as as russule , bordet russule. bordet vert, vert, vert vert bonnet, bonnet, palomet, palomel. berdanel, berdanel. blavet blavel and and verdette. verdelle.

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SABLAGE In times past this word, which means .sanding', SABLAGE -- In times past this word, which means 'sanding', was used to describe a table decoration made with sands of was used to describe a table decoration made with sands of different colours. The sand was spread on the tablecloth so as different colours. The sand was spread on the lablecJoth so as to form different designs flowers, landscapes, coats of arms, to form different designs -- flowers, landscapes, coats of arms, monograms, etc. monograms, etc. This type of decoration has today been completely abanThis type of decoration has today been completely abandoned. doned. SABLE Biscuit or cake, originating in Normandy. Make a SABLÉ -- Biscuit or cake, originating in Normandy. Make a circle of 500 g. ( I 8 oz., 4j cups) sifted flour on a laige board. circle of 500 g. (18 OZ., 4t cups) sifted flour on a large board. Place in the middle a00 g. (la oz., lf; cups) butter, 6 egg yolks, Place in(5the middle 400 g. (14 OZ., l~ cups) butter, 6 egg yolks, 150.g. o2.,3 sugar, I vanilla pod (or few drops of 150 g. (5 OZ., 5" cup) sugar, 1 vanilla pod (or aa few drops of vanilla essence) "rrp) and a pinch ofsalt. vaniIJa essence) and a pînch of salt. Mix the butter, sugar, egg yolks, vanilla and salt, and mix Mix the butter, sugar, egg yolks, vanûla and salt, and mix with the flour. Finish the operation as quickly possible. with the flour. Finish the operation as quickly as as possible. Blend the ingredients by breaking up the paste with the Blend the Ingredients by breaking up the pas te witb the palm of the hand. Form it once more into a bill and palm of the hand. Form it once more into a bail and leave leave it it for I hour. Roll out the mixture I cm. $inch) thick. Cut for 1 hour. Roll out the mixture 1 cm. (t inch) thick. Cut into into rounds about 12 cm. (5 inches) in diameter. Divide rounds about 12 cm. (5 ioches) io diameter. Divide these these into into 4 wedges. Put on a buttered baking sheet and cook in a low 4 wedges. Put on a buttered baking sheet and cook in a low oven for about l8 to 20 minutes. oyen for about 18 to 20 minutes. SACCHARINE - Commercial name for a crystalline chemiSACCHARINE - Commercial name for a crystallioe chemical substance, soluble in water, with a very sweet taste, having cal substance, soluble in water, with a very sweet taste, having also a faint taste of bitter almonds and leaving a dryness in thi also a faint taste ofbitter almonds and leaving a dryness in the throat. The sensation of sweetness that it providis throat. The sensation of sweetness that il provides is is 250 250 to to 300.times stronger than that of sugar, 5 centigrams being 300 times stronger than that of sugar, 5 centigrams being equivalent to a normal-sized sugar cube. But it has no equivaJent to a normal-sized sugar cube. But it has no chemical analogy with sugar and has none its nutritional chemical analogy with sugar and has none of of its nutritional value. value. ItIl isis chiefly used to give an illusion chiefly used to give an illusion of of sweetness sweetness for for diabetics, to whom sugar is forbidden. diabetics, to whom sugar is forbidden. SACCHAROMETER. pisE-srRop - Hydrometer calibrated SACCHAROMETER. - Hydrometer calibrated give the specific gravityPtsE-S1ROP to or density of sugar to gîve the specifie gravit y or density of sugar solutions. solutions. SACRISTAIN

SAIT'RON. SAFRAN sAFRAN -- The The dried dried stamens stamens of of the the saffron saffron or or SAFFRON. cultivated crocus, crocus, originating originating in in the the East East and introduced ioto and introduced into cultivated Spain by by the the Arabs, Arabs, and and cultivated cultivated in in France, France, particularly particularly in in Spain the Gâtinais, Gdtinais, since since the the sixteenth sixteenth cent century. Saffron contains contains aa lhe ury. Saffron volatile oil oil and and aa colouring colouring subslance. substance. Il It isis the the indispensable indispensable volatile condiment for for bouillabaisse. bouillabaisse. condiment good saffron A good saffron should should be be aa dark dark orange orange colour colour ail all over over A without white white streaks; streaks; itit is is sometime sometime falsîfied falsified with with safHower saffiower without (bastard saffron) saffron) which which is is redder redder in in coloue colour. (bastard It isis said said that that aa dish dish is (saffroned) when it is safrané safrant (saffroned) it contains contains It saffron or or when when itit is is saffron saffron coloured. coloured. saffron Saffron of of the thelndiesSee CURCUMA. CURCUMA. Saffron Indies - See SAGE. SAUGE sAUGE -- Name Name of of various of which there there are SAGE. various Labiatae Labiawe of some 500 species with distinct perfume and with some 500 species with a a distinct perfume and with an aromatic, slightly slightly bitter aromatic, bitter taste, taste, among among which are are three three French varieties, (grande sauge), varieties, great great sage sage (grande sauge), of of ramose ramose inflorescence, inflorescence, with witb thick, thick, oblong, oblong, hairy hai ry leaves, leaves, ashy ashy green green in in colour; col our; the provence), small small Provengal Provençal sage sage Qtetite (petite sauge sauge de de Provence), with with smaller, sm aller, whiter whiter leaves leaves and and aa more more pronounced proDounced scent, scent, which which is is the the most highly highly esteemed esteemed species; species; and and the the Catalogne Catalogne sage, sage, which is is even even smaller. smaller. All Ali these these species species are are used used in in making making flavoured flavoured vinegar. vlOegar. Sage Sage is is used used in in cookery cookery to [0 flavour flavour marinades marinades and and forceforcemeats, meats, and and is is threaded threaded into into meat meat that that isis to to be be roasted. roasted. Small Small birds birds are are wrapped wrapped in in it, it, pa4icularly particularly thrushes. thrushes. ItIt is Îs also also added added during during the the cooking cooking ofgreen of green beans, beans, peas peas and and broad broad beans beans to to flavour flavour them. them. Some Some sweet sweet fritters friners are are made made with with it. il. In In certain certain parts parts of of Northern Northern Europe Europe the the young young shoots shoots are are eaten eaten as as aa salad. salad. In In England England there there are are two two indigenous indigenous sages, sages, Salvia Salvia ververbenaca benaca which which isÎs very very common common and and Salvia Salvio pratensis. pralemü, which which isis rare. culinary sage, rare. Our Ourculinary sage, Salvia Sa/viaofficilla/is, Îs not aanative nativeplant. plant. fficinalis,iJnot The The culinary clllinary sage, sage, the the common common garden garden sage sage and and the the white white sage, sage, Salvia SalvÎa fficinalis officinalisalba, alba, arc aregrown grown inin the the U.S.A., U .S.A., but but not not inin sufficient sufficient quantity, quantity, and and tons tons of of sage sage are are imported imported every every year. year.

Small puff pastry made in

SACRJST AlN -- Small puff pastry made in the the shape shape of of aa paper twist. paper twist.

SADDLE. sELLE, RABLE - In terms of butchery the French SADDLE. SELLE, RABLE - In terms of butchery the French word selle describes the part of the hindquarters word selle describes the part of the hiodquarters extending extending from the last ribs to the leg on both sides (mutton, tamb,

SAGO. SAGO. sAcou SAGOU -- Floury Floury extract extract of ofthe the marrow marrow of of various various

kinds kindsofofpalm palmtree. tree. This Thisyellowish yelJowish flour, flour, tending tendingto tored red or orbrown, brown, isis used used for for cooking cooking and and baking baking as as aa liaison liaison element, element, and and often often also also to to prepare preparesoups soupsand anddishes dishesthat that are arerecommended recommended for forspecial special diets. diets. Sago Sagoconsomm6consommé - See SeeSOUPS SOUPSAND ANDBROTHS, BROTHS,Consommt Consommé with withsago. sago. Sago Sagopuddingpudding -See SeePUDDING. PUDDING.

from the last ribs to the leg on both sides (mutton, lamb, roebuck). roebuck). The word rable descibes the fleshy part extending from the The word rable describes the fleshy pa rt extending l'rom the base of the shoulder to the tail of small domestii or wild base of (rabbits, the shoulder to the tail of small domestic or wild animals hares) formed by the sacro-lumbar, animais (rabbits, hares) formed by the sacro-lumbar, long long dorsal and transverse spinal muscles. In English cookery, thi dorsal and transverse spinal muscles. In English cookery, the hare is the only small animal to which the word .saddle'is hare is the only smalt animal to which [he word 'saddle' is applied. applied.

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SALAD SALAD The The Saint-Honor6 Saint-Honoré is is made made with with two two different different kinds kinds of of pastry: pastry: Fine Fine lining liningpaste paste fot for the the base base and and Chou Choupaste paste for for the the the baseon little choux, which which are are arranged arranged in in aa crown crown on the base. little iced iced choux, (See DOUGH.) (See DOUGH.) To To make makethe the Saint-Honort.Withthe Saint-Honoré. With the rolled-out roUed-out lining Iining paste paste make 18to to 20 20cm. cm. (7 (7 to to 88inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Moisten Moisten make aa circle circle l8 paste of chou the and pipe pipe aa thick truck ring ring of chou paste the edges edges with with aa brush, brush, and round round the the damp damp edge. edge. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oyen. On On aa separate separate baking baking sheet sheet make make two two dozen dozen little !ittle round round choux choux the the size size of of walnuts. walnuts. Brush Brush with with egg egg and and bake bake in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven oyen for for about about l5 15 minutes. minutes. To for the To cook cook the the sugar sugar and and icing icingfor the choux. choux. Put Put into into aa copper copper pan pan 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., generous generous cup) cup) sugar, sugar, some sorne glucose glucose as as big big as as aa walnut walnut and and 22 dl. dl. G (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) water. water. Cook Cook rapidly rapidly over over the (see Take SUGAR). degree aa good good heat heat to to small small crack crack degree (see SUGAR). Take the pan pan from from the the heat heat and and dip dip the the choux choux into into the the sugar, sugar, icing icing the the lightly' very the sugar into Dip the bottoms tops only. tops only. Dip the bottoms into the sugar very lightly, and and set set them of chou chou PasfiY. pastry. them on on to to the the ring ring of ( pints, I litre Heatf i. ainl- H onor r eam filling foi the C I pints, lf, Creamfillingfor the SSaint-Honoré. Heat ~ litre (lt I~ pints) pints) Fr-ench French pastry pastry cream cream (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS). Add Add to to it it while while 4 tablespoons) warm warm 6 6 leaves leaves gelatine gelatine or or 25 25 g. g. (l (1 oz.; OZ.; 4 tablespoons) soaked in powdered and powdered gelatine gelatine previously previously soaked in cold cold water water and softened. softened. sugar with Beat Beat 66 egg egg whites whites stiffiy, stiffly, sprinkling sprinkling them them lightly lightly with.sugar fill the cream' and and fill when when firm. finn. Add Add them them rapidly rapidly to to the the pastry pastry cream, the using aa cream, using Saint-Honor6 with of the inside inside of the Saint-Honoré with the the resulting resulting cream, nozzle. fluted and aa large, forcing forcing bag bag and large, fiuted nozzle.

Sagowith withred red wine wine@ussian (Russiancookery). cookery).sAcou SAGOUAU AU vIN VINRoUGE ROUGE Sago drain 2 minutes, (9 for sago g. oz.,ltcups) 250 Blanch 250 g. (9 OZ., 1 cups) sago for 2 minutes, drain and and Blanch cool. cool. Cook Cook in in aa saucepan saucepan with with I1litre litre (lf (I~ pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) oz., ]cup) red red Bordeaux Bordeauxwine, wine, 100 100g.g. (4 (40z., 1cup)sugar, sugar, aasmall small pinch pinch of of salt, salt, the the peel peel of of I~ lemon lemon and and aa good good pinch pinch of of powdered powdered cinammon. cinammon. Simmer Simmer over overlow low heat heat for for 25 25 minutes, minutes, discard discard the the lemon lemon rind rind and and serve. serve. The The dish dish can can also also be be made made with with white white wine, and and served served cold. cold. wine,

t

SAGUET (LA (LA MNRE) MËRE) - SEE See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF SAGUET BYGONE DAYS. DA YS. BYGONE SAIGNEUX -- French French butchery butchery term tenn for for the the neck neck of of veal veal or or SAIGNEUX mutton. mutton. SAINT-AGATHON -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. SAINT-AGATHON SAINTE-MAURE -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE. SAINTE-MAURE SAINTE-MENEHOULD-District of the the Marne, Marne, renowned SAINTE-MENEHOULD - District of for its its excellent excellent charcuterie, charcuterie, and particularly particularly for its its Pigs' Pigs'feet. for feet. SAINT-ÉMILIONof the Gironde Gironde in in the SAINT-EMILION - Small commune of which, after after the Libourne district, celebrated for its wines, which, Burgundy. (See approach the wines wines of ofBurgundy. (See Bordelais, most most nearly approach Bordelais, of Bordeaux.) Winesof Bordeaux.) BORDEAUX, LV'ines Gironde (the SAINT-ESTÈPHE (the M6doc Médoc SAINT-ESTipffn - Commune in the Gironde given its na-me na me to highly reputed appellation region) that has given controlée red wines. (See MEDOC, MÉDOC, BORDEAUX.) ,irtroie,

SCALLOPS. See SCALLOPS. SAINT-JACQUES -- See SAINT-JACQUES

CHEESE. SAINT-FLORENTIN SAINT-FLORENTIN - See CHEESE.

with (Hypericum). MILLEPERTUIS tvulrnrnnruls-Plant WORT (Hypericum). JOHN'S WORT ST JOHN'S ST - Plant with whose in taste, taste, whose bitter in fragrance, bitter resinous fragrance, and resinous aromatic and an aromatic an liqueurs times, liqueurs In fonner former times, in infusions. infusions. In used in tops are are used flowering tops flowering this plant. from this made from were made Plant. were

trlousseRoN -- Small mushroom ST GEORGE'S mushroom GEORGE S AGARIC. MOUSSERON It isis spring. It and spring. autumn and the autumn grows in fields in in the wruch the fields in the which gwws and cultivated mushroom, and way as as the the cultivated cooked in in the the same way mainly used to flavour stews. mainly has is dried, and and has In south-western south-western France, this mushroom is (See MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.) to be steeped steeped in water before use. (See

(the Médoc Mddoc Gironde (the in the the Gironde This area area in SAINT-JULIEN -- This SAINT-JULIEN reputed appellation appellation highly reputed given its to highly its name name to has given region) has region) wines. red wines. contdlte red contrôlée

(See peas. (See fresh peas. Thick soup made with fresh SAINT-GERMAIN SAINT-GERMAIN -- Truck soup') Purie offreshpea offresh pea soup.) BROTHS, Purée SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS, principal garnish whose whose principal to aa garnish The applies to term also also applies The term (see ways (see variety of ways prepared in in aa va peas, prepared ingredient isis fresh ri et y of fresh peas, grilled of grilled for aa preparation of is used for word is The word GARNISHES). GARNISHES). The (See SOLE, of Fillets of SOLE, Fillets sauce. (See with béarnaise btarnaise sauce. served with fiJlets of fish served fillets offish sole sole Saint-Germain.) Saint-Germain.) Saint-Germain. called Saint-Germain. erroneously caUed purde of dried peas isis erroneously A of dried A purée

CHEESE. See CHEESE. SAINT-MARCELLIN -- See SAINT-MARCELLIN pastry Genoese pastry fine Genoese Cook aa fine SAINT-MICHEL (pâtisserie) @Atisserie) -- Cook SAINT-MICHEL into cut itit into cool, cut When cool, (see GENOESE) tin. When in aa cake cake tin. GENOESE) in mixture (see mixture which of butter with alayet each Spread layers. 3 equal-sized 3 equal-sized layers. Spread each with a layer of butter which one layers one cake layers Put the the cake essence. Put coffee essence. with coffee beaten with has been been beaten has vanillawith vaniUasides with top and and sides the top Cover the other. Coyer top of of the the other. on top on over. (see CREAMS) smooth itit over. and smooth CREAMS) and ueam (see Butter cream flavoured Butter flavoured and almonds, and roasted almonds, chopped roasted with chopped cake with the cake Sprinkle the Sprinkle forcing using aa forcing cream' using butter cream, with coffee-flavoured coffee-flavoured butter decorate with decorate bag. bag. fermentby fennentobtained by in Japan, Japan, obtained used in drink used Alcoholic drink SAKE -- Alcoholic SAKÉ meal. wann before before aa meal. served warm ing rice. rice. ItIt isis usually usually served ing plants, vegetvegetherbs, plants, up of of herbs, made up Dishes made sALADE -- Dishes SALAD. SALADE SALAD. and salt and vinegar,sait withoil, oil, vinegar, seasoned with fish, seasoned meat and and fish, eggs, meat ables, eggs, ables, ingredients. without other other ingredients. pepper, with or without with or pepper, by or by incelJars cellars or cultivated in by being being cultivated blanched by salads, blanched Certain salads, Certain (like Belgian Belgian air (Iike and air light and out light keep out up toto keep being earthed earthed up being white capucin,white du capucin, barbe du known asas barbe chicory known the chicory endives, the endives, without minerai mineral entirely without almost entirely arealmost leaves, etc.) etc.) are dandelion Ieaves, dandelion to restrictedto are restricted Theircontents contents are vitamins. Their orvitamins. chlorophyll or salts,chlorophyll salts, bulk. actonly only asasbulk. which act water,which andwater, cellulose and cellulose plain or mixed. ormixed. kinds, plain oftwo two kinds, are of Saladsare Salads subcan be besubThesecan SIMPLEs - - These sALADEs SIMPLES PLAIN SALADS. SALADS.SALADES PLAIN ofcooked andsalads saladsof raw,and greensalads, servedraw, salads, served into green divided into cooked divided vegetable. kindof ofvegetable. ofaasingle singlekind consisting of vegetables,consisting vegetables, with the the servedwith areserved cooked,are rawor orcooked, whetherraw salads,whether Thesesalads, These cold. hotor orcold. roast.hot wast, for Dressingsfor AssAIsoNNErr,mNrs - -Dressings plainsalads. salads. ASSAISONNEMENTS forplain Dressingsfor Dressings

Saint-Honoré Saint-HonorO

pastryParisian pastryofParisian speciality of Cake,aaspeciality SAINT-HONORÉ SAINT-HONORE -- Cake, patron saint saint thepatron Honor6, the Saint Honoré, memoryof ofSaint cook s, so socalled called ininmemory cooks, of pastry-cooksand bakers. andbakers. ofpastry-cooks 785 785

SALAD

(Ro bert Carrier't Green Greensalad sai ad (Robert Carrier)

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SALAD SALAD plain plain salads salads are are made made with with oil, oil, mustard, mustard, wine wine vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and pepper. pepper. These These are are generally generally known known as as vinaigrette. vinaigrette. They They and may also also be be seasoned seasoned in in the the ways ways shown shown below: below: may Anchovy-- For For celery, celery, endives endives or orcooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. Anchovy Take 22 de-salted de-salted anchovy anchovy fillets fillets and and rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Take Put them them in in the the salad salad dish dish and and add add oil, oil, vinegar vinegar and and pepper. pepper. Put Cream-- For For cabbage cabbage and and romaine romaine (cos) (cos) lettuces. lettuces. Cream tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh cream, cream, not not too too Mix 44 tablespoons Mix juice)' Add thick, with with I1teaspoon teaspoon wine wine vinegar vinegar (or (or lemon lemonjuice). Add salt salt thick, and pepper. pepper. and Indian -- For For cooked cooked vegetables. vegetables. Indian Cook I1 tablespoon tablespoon finely finely chopped chopped onion onion in in I1 tablespoon tablespoon Cook oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with I1 teaspoon teaspoon curry curry powder. powder. Add Add oil, lemon lemon oil. juice, crushed garlic. juice, salt, salt, pepper pepper and and aa little littlecrushed garlic. Gasconne -- For For curly curly and and other other endives. endives. Gasconne Marseillaise with with the the addition addition of of crusts crusts rubbed with with As for for Marseillaise As garlic. garlic. Bacon fat fat -- For For 'wild' chicory, red cabbage, cabbage, corn salad, Bacon dandelion. dandelion. Render down 100 g. (4 o2.,6 oz., 6 slices) diced bacon. Pour the Render the salad, which which has been set in a hot salad dish and fat on the fat and pepper. pepper. Add Add I1 tablespoon vinegar seasoned with salt and heated in in the the frying frying pan. heated and other chicory and MarseiIJaise -- For early endive, endive, 'wild' chicory Marseillaise endives. clove of garlic in the salad bowl; add oil, vinegar, Crush a clove salt and pepper. pepper. salt in cut in celeriac eut Mustard cream cooked celeriac raw and and cooked For raw Mustard cream -- For julienne, and endives. table(3 tablespoons) mustard with 44 tabletablespoons (3 Mix 22 tablespoons lemon spoons (5 few drops drops lemon (5 tablespoons) add aa few tablespoons) fresh cream; add juice, and salt and pepper. Rémoulade -- For ail cooked. all salads, raw or cooked. R6moulade yolks. Put Put Rub through aa sieve, or egg yolks. crush, 3 hard-boiled egg or crush, with oil, oil, in the salad mayonnaise, with as for for mayonnaise, blend, as and blend, salad bowl bowl and in the vinegar, salt and pepper. Paprika -- For celery for cooked cooked vegetables. or for celery or salad Bake an ad in the the sai Put itit in it' Put chop it. oven and and chop in the the oyen onion in an onion bowl and add paprika. and paprika. salt and vinegar, salt add oil, oil, vinegar, (zucchini), Tomato juice -- For marrows (zucchini), baby marrows For cooked cooked baby Tomato juice potatoes, etc. artichokes, etc. potatoes, Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes, the Rub Boil down down the fine sieve. sieve. Boil through aa fine raw tomatoes Rub 22 raw tomatoes through pepper. juice by and pepper. salt and vinegar, salt oil, vinegar, add oil, by halfand halfand add Note for ail all best for oil isis the the best Olive oil of salads. salads. Olive on the the seasoning seasoning of Note on by te, by salads. taste, to tas according to replaced, according be replaced, nevertheless be It can can nevertheless salads. It aa good oil. good nut nut or or vegetable vegetable oil. juice, verj Wine negar ma y also uice, verjuice, lemon juice, by lemon replaced by be replaced also be vinegar may Wine vi or vinegar. cider vinegar. or eider

gf,een Complementary Complementary garnishes garnisbes for for plain plain salads sa lads -- For For green salads salads or or salads salads in in season, season, the the most most usual usual garnishes garnishes are are aromatic aromatic herbs, herbs, such such as as chervil, chervil, chives, chives, tarragon, tarragon, parsley parsley and and savory. savory. These These herbs herbs are are used used coarsely coarsely chopped, chopped, or or the the leaves leaves are are picked picked from from the the stems stems and and used used whole. whole. garnish to also used are vegetables The The following following herbs herbs and and vegetables are also used to garnish plain plain salads, salads, raw raw or or cooked: cooked: Beetroot, Beetroot, baked baked in in the the oven, oyen, peeled, peeled, cut eut into into rounds, rounds, in in dice dice caperq whole or or in in aa julienne; julienne; capers, whole or or chopped;. chopped; crusts crusts of of bread bread gherkins, vinaigrette; with garlic rubbed rubbed with with garlic and and seasoned seasoned with vinaigrette; gherkins, rowds,iulienne whole, who le, in in dice, dice, rounds, julienne ot or chopped; chopped; borage borage flowers, flowers, or nasturtiums nasturtiums or or violets; violets; hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs cut eut in in halves halves or 'quarters, or chopped; peeled tomatoes cut in thin slices or quarters, or chopped; peeled tomatoes eut in thin slices or slicnsiniulienne quarters; quarters; truffies, truffles, raw raw or or cooked, cooked, cut eut in in thin thin slices in julienne or or large large dice. dice. (A SERVIR cnurs) ssnun CRUES)sIMPLES (À sALADEs SIMPLES Raw Raw salads. salads. SALADES

Dressing: Dressing:

cream Mustard cream (Barbe du capucin) Mustard du capucin) 'Wild' chicory (Barbe 'Wild' chicory

celery....................... . Chopped celery in sticks sticks....................... . Celery in Celery Celeriac ................................ . Celeriac endive............... . or other other endive Curly or Curly

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rimoulade Rémoulade cream Mustard cream Mustard (with Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette garlic-rubbed crust), crust), garlic-rubbed fat. Bacon fat. Rdmoulade, Bacon Rémoulade, or Vinaigrette or grated........ . Vinaigrette Kohl-rabi, coarsely grated Mayonnaise Mayonnaise fat, Bacon fat, Rimoulade, Bacon cabbage,cttiniulienne Red cabbage, Rémoulade, eut in julienne Vinaigrette or Vinaigrette or (the tender parts, cabbage (the Green cabbage Parts, cutinjulienne) eut in julienne) ...... .......... ..... left to to and left in rounds rounds and cut in Cucumber eut Cucumber in salt salt ........................ stand in stand Cress .................................... Cress Watercress .............................. Watercress Chicory ................................. Chicory Fennel Fennel......................... . .......... kinds .................. all kinds Lettuces of of ail Lettuces lettuce ............... or cos cos lettuce Romaine or Romaine salad ................... . .......... Corn salad Corn (greens) ................ ...... Turnip tops tops (greens) Turnip .. (rare in in U.S.A.) U.S.A.) ............ Samphire (rare Samphire ............ burnet ........................... Salad burnet Salad Dandelion .............................. Dandelion parts) ............... (the green green parts) Leeks (the Leeks Purslane ................................. Purslane (the tender and the the leaves and tender leaves Radish(the Radish chopped) .................. radishes chopped) radishes Rampion .............................. Rampion Rocketcress cress ........................... Rocket leaves) (thestems tender leaves) ortender stems or Salsify Salsify (the shoots ..................... Soya beanshoots Soyabean

cream Mustard cream Mustard

Cream or Cream Vinaigrette or Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rimoulnde Rémoulade Anchovy Anchovy Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Cream Cream fat Bacon fat Bacon Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette fat Bacon fat Bacon Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette fat Bacon fat Bacon Cream Cream cream Mustard cream Mustard

SIMPLES SALADES SIMPLES vegetables. SALADES cookedvegetables. fromcooked Plainsalads salads from Plain (ASERVIR clnrEs)- (À srnvtn CUITES) Dressing: Dressing: Vinaigrette (bottoms) ............... Vinaigrette Artichokes Artichokes (bottoms) (roundsblanched blanched inin Aubergines Aubergines(rounds cream Mustardcream water) ............... ............ Mustard salt saltwater) green) Vinaigretteoror (whiteand andgreen) Artichokes Vinaigrette Artichokes (white Mayonnaise Mayonnaise always (inrounds), servedalways Beetroot rounds),served Beetroot(in cream Mustardcream ............ asashors-d'œuvre ,. ... ..... ... hors-d euvre....... '.. ... ' r. i Mustard cream Mustardcream (cfiinjulienne) Celeriac in julienne) Mustard Celeriac(eut Vinaigrdtte Sprouting Vinaigrette broccoli... Sproutingbroccoli..................... Vinaigrette Brussels ........................ Vinaigrette Brusselssprouts sprouts Vinaigrette Sea-kale ................................. Vinaigrette Sea-kale cream Mustardcream turnip......... Mustard Rutabaga Swedeturnip RutabagaororSwede cream Mustardcream Kohl-rabi .............................. Mustard Kohl-rabi

Lettuce eggs saladwitb withbard-boiled hard-boiledeggs Lettucesalad

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SALAD SALAD (cutin julienne) Red cabbage cabbage (cut Red in julienne) (as hors d' ceuvre) Green cabbage cabbage(as Green hors d' œuvre) (zucchini) ................. . Courgette (zucchini) Courgette Chinese artichoke artichoke .................... . Chinese Spinach Jeaves leaves (very lightly Spinach (very lightly blanched) .......................... . blanched) Broad beans beans .......................... . Broad

first, based based on on mixed mixed cooked cooked vegetables, vegetables, isis prepared prepared inin the the first, same way wayas plain salad. as for for aa plain salad. Others Others contain contain aa variety variety of of same ingredients, not not only only mixed mixed vegetables, vegetables, but but also also truffies, truffies, ingredients, mushrooms, sliced sliced fish, fish,shellfish, shellfish, poultry, poultry, tongue, tongue, harn, ham, etc. etc. mushrooms, Some of these salads, of these salads, by reason of by reason preparaof their their elaborate elaborate preparaSorne tion, come come into into the the realm grande cuisine, realm of of grande cuisine, and and constitute constitute tion, cold entrées entries rather rather than than salads salads in in the the ordinary ordinary sense. sense. In In this this cold category are are various various mayonnaises, mayonnaises, chicken chickensalads salads en en bellevue, bellevue. category etc. etc. Mixed salads salads with with only only aa base base of vegetables are of vegetables are served served like like Mixed plain salads salads with with the the roast, roast, hot hot or or cold. cold. Salads Salads with with multiple multiple plain ingredients, particularly particularly those those demanding demanding aa rather rather elaborate elaborate ingredients, arrangement, are are served served by by themselves themselves or or as as an an accompaniaccompaniarrangement, ment to to aa special special cold cold dish, dish, such such as as chaud-froids, chaud-froids, ham ham mousse, mousse, ment chicken mousse, mousse, etc. etc. chicken Dressings for for mixed mixed salads. salads. ASSAISONNEMENT AssATsoNNEMENT -- Ali All salads salads Dressings with aa vegetable vegetable basis basis are are dressed dressed in in the the same same way plain way as as plain with salads. They They are garnished with are garnished with the the additional additional ingredients ingredients salads. given previously, previously, with with the the exception exception of of those those with with too too given strongly marked marked aa character, character, such grated garlic such as garlic or as grated garlicor garlicstrongly rubbed crusts. crusts. rubbed These salads salads are are served served in glass bowls. in glass bowls. The The various These vegetables of of which which they they are are composed composed are are arranged arranged in in vegetables groups, the separate groups, the colours arranged to to contrast. contrast. separate Ifthe salads are are ddressed in advance in in the kitchen and and then then If the salads ressed in mixed together, together, macédoine mactdoine fashion, they are garnished, garnished, after mixed having been been arranged arranged in in aa dome in the salad dish, dish. with little having heaps and and bunches ofvegetables, arranged. vegetables, decoratively arranged. heaps bunches of When the the dressing dressing used used is is vinaigrette, vinaigrette, the the vegetables When composing the the salad salad can can be seasoned separately separately and arranged composing be seasoned in'bouquets'. in 'bouquets'. Mixed salads with with aa multiple are often dressed dressed with Mixed salads multiple basis are mayonnaise. According of salad, and according according to to the the type ofsalad, mayonnaise. According to the it isis to arranged and and served, served, the the way way in in which which it to be be arranged

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Rdmoulade Rémoulade

Vinaigrette Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette savory) savory) Haricot beans beans (shell beans) ...... Vinaigrette (with Vinaigrette (with Haricot (shell beans) chopped onion) onion) chopped French beans beans .......................... ..... Vinaigrette French . Vinaigrette Kidney and and other other beans beans Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Kidney (blanched and Lettuce hearts hearts (blanched and Lettuce drained) ............................. . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette drained) Lentils ................................... . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette Lentils potatoes Sweet potatoes Vinaigrette ....................... . Vinaigrette Sweet (white parts cooked in water) Mayonnaise Leeks (white Leeks parts cooked in water) Mayonnaise 'Mange-toul' peas peas Vinaigrette .................... . Vinaigrette 'Mange-tout' Potatoes (cooked in water, cut up Potatoes (cooked in water, cut up when hot hot and and soaked soaked in in white white when wine) ................................ . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or wine) Mayonnaise Mayonnaise Salsify ............. ...................... . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or Salsify Mayonnaise Mayonnaise Parsnips ................................ . Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or Parsnips Mayonnaise Mayonnaise

Dried vegetables vegetables as as weil well as as fresh fresh farinaceous farinaceous vegetables vegetables Dried gain by being seasoned while still hot, even if the salad is to be gain by being seasoned while still hot, even if the salad is to be served cold. Such salads are usually garnished with parsley, served cold. Such salads are usually garnished with parsJey, onion or chopped chives. on ion or chopped chives. (COMBINATION) MIXED (COMBINA SALADS. SALADES sALADES covrposfns MIXED TION) SALADS. COMPOSÉES Mixed salads salads are sub-divided into are sub-divided into several several categories. categories. The The -- Mixed

Salad SaJadvegetables vegetables

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SALAD SALAD

Potato Potato salad salad

mayonnaise isis used used in in its its normal normal creamy creamy form, form, or or very very thick thick mavonnaise and stiff. stiff. and of these these salads sa lads are are moulded moulded in in aspic, aspic, and and become become Sorne of Some rather than than saladssalads. cold enft1es entrées rather cold of Albignac salad. salado snreoE SALADE D'ALBIGNAc D'ALBIGNAC - The The white white meat meat of Albignac slices, black chicken finely fineIy sliced, raw white truffies in in thin thin slices, black chickei fine cut in celeriac cut in iulienlne, julienne, shelled crayfish, celeriac in aa fine truffies cut o$ in truffies tarand tarchervil and eggs, chervil julienne, lettuce hearts, hearts, hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, julienne,lettu-ce ragon. -Put of middle of in the the middle mayonnaise in Put the celeriac dressed dressed with mayonnaise alternately surround aIternately dome. Surround the salad bowl, arranging it in aa dome. and salt and lemon juice, salt seasoned with oil, lemonjuice, with thechicken the chicken meat, seasoned th9 and the ketchup, and tomato pepper, the crayfish seasoned with tomato ketchup, seasoned the salt with salt seasoned with and seasoned oil and olive oil with olive white ririttkl"d with t.ume. sprinkled wfriie truffies eggs hard-boiled eggs and hard-boiled hearts and and lettuce hearts Insert lettuce paprika. 1nsert and paprika. garnish. between of garnish. grouPs of the groups between the celeriac' the ceIeriac. over the truffies over of black black truffies Sprinkle in" julienne Sprinkle the iitttrri of serving' before serving. Sprinkle lemon juice just before and lemonjuicejust with oil oii and Sprinkle with cooked' potatoes, cooked, Sweet potatoes, ALI-BAB -- Sweet Ali-Baba sALADE ALI-BAB salad. SALADE Ali-Baba salad. inslices, slices, (zucchini) eut cut in marrows (zucchini) peeled baby marrows slices; baby in slices; cut in peeled and and eut peeled' tomatoes, drained; and cooked in salted water and drained; tomatoes, peeled, water salted in cooked eggs' quarters of ofhard-boiled drained, hard-boiled eggs, chopped; quarters andchopped; seeded and drained, seeded chopped with chopped mayonnaise with in mayonnaise nasturtium shrimps in flowers, shrimps nasturtium fiowers, parsley, tarragon' and tarragon. chervil and parsley, chervil ' Arrange Surround mayonnaise' Surround dome ininmayonnaise. shrimps inin aadome theshrimps Arrange the the sprinkle the servingsprinkle before serving with Just before above.Just gar-nishasas above. with garnish (see sauce(see Vinaigrette sauce garnisb tablespoons Vinaigrette few tablespoons with aa few garnisi with SAUCE). SAUCE). 300g.g'(r(I1 Dice300 Allemande ALLEMAN DE - -Dice 1 snrlps ÀAL'L'ALtnlraANDE salad.SALADE Allenande salado tart rather (4 I cup) g' oz', 100 potatoes and 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup) rather taft oz., 2 cups) boiled and potatoes oz., 2 cups) boiled (scantt +cup) tlpl eating tablespoons (scant with33tablespoons Seison with apples.Season eating apples. garnish andgarnish dish,and saladdish, mayonnaise. Arrange inina adome domeinina asalad Arrange -uyoottuii.. onions' with andonions. beetrootand cookedbeetroot ofcooked slicesof witirslices strips' cutininstrips. gherkins,eut Put andgherkins, filletsand herringfillets saltherring trimmedsalt Puttrimmed parsley'.Just J-ust choppedparsley. on withchopped Sprinklewith potatoes.Sprinkle thepotatoes. topofoftbe ontop garnish. thegarnish. overthe before vinegarover andvinegar poura alittle littleoiloiland servingpour beforeserving cutinin Celeriaccut Americao lufnrcllNe- -Celeriac sALADEAMÉRICAINE salad1.I.SALADE Americansalad (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) sauce(see julienne, Vinaigrettesauce withVinaigrette julienne,seasoned seasonedwith and potatoesand slicedpotatoes arranged withsliced Surroundwith dome.Surround aituttg"Oinina adome. Putththin eggs'Put tomatoes. in quarteredhard-boiled hard-boiledeggs. withquartered Garnishwith tomaioes.Garnish with sprinklewith andsprinkle slices celeriacand theceleriac topofofthe onionsonontop slicesofofonions chopped tarragon. andtarragon. cherviland choppedchervil cucumber Thincucumber Americao .craERIcA,Nn- -Thin sALADEAMÉRICAINE saladII.II.SALADE Americansalad Vinaigrette withVinaigrette slices, seasonedwith andseasoned rinsed,and salt,rinsed, soakedininsalt, slices,soaked slicesofof hearts,slices sauce lettucehearts, withlettuce Surroundwith SAUCE).Surround ,ouri(see 1"""SAUCE). tomato and quarters of hard-boiJed eggs. Sprinkle with a few tomatoandquartersofhard-boiledeggs.Sprinklewithafew tablespoons e s auce' v inaigre t t sauce. tablesPoonsvinaigrette

This salad must be served very cold, even iced' This salad must be served very cold, even iced. Andalusian salad. SnlloE ANDALousE - cook rice in salted Andalusiao salad. SALADE ANDALOUSE - Cook rice in salted drain and season with oil, vinegar' salt and paprika' water, with oil, vinegar, salt and paprika. water, drain and season onion, parsley, and a little grated ga1li9' chopped Add Add chopped onion, parsley, of and a little gratedpeeled' garlic. pimentos, sweet *ith ult"tttatl heaps of Surround Surround with alternate heapsand sweet pimentos, peeled, tomatoes' quarters of in and cut seasoned julienne, and quarters of tomatoes. seasoned and cut in iulienne, with choPPed chervil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped chervil.ARGENTEUIL salad-. slrnDE - Season diced Argenteuil Argenteuil salad. SALADE ARGENTEUIL - Season diced potat"oes with mayonnaise and chopped chervil' Put white potatoes with mayonnaise and and chopped white ^urpurug.r, Garnish on top'Put lemon'chervil. tips, seasoned with oil asparagus tips, seasoned with oil and and quarters lemon, on top. Garnish hard-boiled of of shredded lettuce wltn with aa6orOer border ofshredded Iettuce and quarters of hard-boiled eggseggs. --Arl6ri"no" salad. sellos nnLEsmNNs - Sliced potatoes; - Sliced potatoes; Arlésienne saI ad. SALADE ARLÉSIENNE bottoms seasoned with oil, vinegar, salt and sliced sliced artichoke artichoke bottoms seasoned with oil, vinegar, and in salt a salad arranged chervil and tarragon, pepper, pepper, chopped chopped chervil and tarragon,inarranged in a salad a flour-and-water wittr endives cooked to*t. bowl. Cut.tistr Garnish with endives cooked in a fiour-and-water cut in small quarters, tomatoes cut in quarters court-bouillon, in quarters court-bouillon, cut in small quarters, tomatoes cutarranged in olives. Plaie fillets ofanchovies and and large large stoned stoned olives. Place fillets of anchovies arranged in a criss-cross Pattern on toP. a criss-cross pattern on top. sunoE BAGRATIoN - Artichoke bottoms Bagrationialad. - Artichoke bottoms Bagration salad. SALADE BAGRATIONstrips, and chunks of celeriac in short strips, thick ii cut cut in thick strips, celeriac in short strips, and chunks of tomato' with flavoured mayonnaise with Season macaroni. macaroni. Season with mayonnaise fiavoured with tomato, and trufre egg, hard-boiled with chopped and and surrounded surrounded with chopped hard-boiled egg, truffie and Sprinkle with chopped parsley' scarlet scarlet tongue. tongue. Sprinkle with chopped parsley.A n PARISIENNE Beef salad drlaParisienne- sALADE DE Bonur Beefsalad à la Parisienne. SALADE DE BOEUF À LA PARISIENNE See nEnF, Cold boiled beef it la parisienne' -- See BEEF, Cold boiled beef à la parisienne. sALADE DE BETTERAvEs - Cut cooked salad. SALADE Beetroot salado DE BETTERAVES - Cut cooked Beetroot julienne or thin round slices. Dress with into beetroot beetroot into julienne or thin round slices. hors-deuvre Dress with (see SAUCE). Arrange in an sauie Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SAUCE). Arrange in an hors-d'œuvre dish,"andsprinklewithchoppedparsley'Garnishwithsmall dish, and sprinkle with chopped parsley. Garnish with small if liked. liked' rings, if raw onion onion rings, raw crime. sALADE DE BETTERAvTs A rl la crème. salad ài la Beetroot salad SALADE DE BETTERAVES À LA Beetroot as above. Dress with Mustard cream beetroot the cut cntrvrp CRÈME -- Cut the beetroot as above. Dress with Mustard cre am (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). sauce polonaise. SALADE DE BETTERAvES A LA la polonaise. salad ài la Beetroot salad Beetroot SALADE DE BETTERAVES À LA poLoNArsE _ cut thebeetroot in iulienne and season with POLONAISE - Cut the beetroot in julienne and season with has been added a few tablespoons of cream which has to which mustard to mustard been added a few ta blespoons of cream pepper. Sprinkle with grated juice, salt and pepper. salt and lemon juice, and lemon and Sprinkle with grated eggs' hard-boiled chopped hard-boiled eggs. and chopped horseradish and horseradish s,c,iAoE BRESsANE - This preparation consalad. SALADE Bressanesalad. BRESSANE - This preparation conBressane than a salad in the true sense' ratherthan entrte cold a stitutes a saI ad in the true sense. stitutes a cold entrée rather salad bowl with shredded lettuce of bottom the Garnish Garnish the bottom of aasalad bowl witb shredded lettuce (see SAUCE) and pressed sauce Vinaigrette sauce (see withVinaigrette seasoned with SAUCE) and pressed seasoned RdO thin slices of chicken, season with bowi.Add thebowl. linethe downtotoline down thin slices of chicken, season with juice, salt, pepper and chopped chervil' Cover with lemonjuice, oil,lemon Coyer with oil, salt, pepper and chopped juice chervil. and seasoned with tomatojuice wiih tomato mixed with mavonnaiie mayonnaise mixed and seasoned with

American salad (Claire) American saJad (Claire)

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SALAD SALAD paprika.

Garnishwith withsliced sriced truffiesand and surroundwith with paprika. Gamish truffles surround peeled green and red peppers, sliced injulienne and seasoned peeled green and red peppers, slicedinjulienne and seasoned withvinaigrette vinaigrettesauce, sauce,with withasparagus asparagus tipsand quurtli"J unO tips quartered with hard-boiledeggs. eggs. hard-boiled Brimontsalado salad.SALADE str,toEBRJMONT BRrMoNr- _ Mixdiced dicedpotatoes potatoesand Mix Brimont and artichokebottoms bottomswith withmayonnaise mayonnaiseseasoned seasonedwith withcurry artichoke cu.ry powder. powder. surroundwith withcrayfish crayfishtails tailsand andstoned stonedolives orives seasoned Surround seasoned and_vinegar, separatingthem ytl oilgitand thembybyquartered quarteredhardwitb vinegar, separating hard_ boiled eggs.Garnish Garnishwith withsliced slicedtruffles. truffies. boiled eggs. calves'brain brainsalado (car0me'srecipe). sarad.(Carême's recipe).SALADE SALADEDEDE .ERVELLE CERVELLE Calves' os vEAu Afterthe thebrains brainshave havebeen beenblanched branchedininsalted sartedwater DE VEAU - -After water t:-which vinegar andtarragon tarragonhave havebeen beenadded, added,Carême Car€mesays to which vinegar and says 'They should be braised, masked with thin slices 'They should be braised, masked with thin slices oflemon oflemonand und cov-eredwith piecesofofbacon withpieces baconfat, fat,sorne somestock stockand andseasoning. seasoning. covered 'whencold, cold,the thebrains brainsare arecut cutininhalf halfand andarranged arrangedininthe 'When iiie following way (theselook way(these lookmore morelike likethe thetexture textirreofofa a following mayonnaise ratherthan thana asalad). salad). mayonnaise rather 'Arrange them theminina acrown crownon onan anentrée entr\edish, dish,the 'Arrange thebottom bottomofof which will willhave havebeen beenlined linedwith withshredded shreddedlettuceseasoned lettuce seasonedasasa a which salad.Garnish Garnish the thebrains brains with withmore morelettuce, lettuce,then salad. thenmake makeanan elegant border border of ofhard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggsand garnishwith andgarnish elegant withlettuce rettuce hearts and and fillets filletsof ofanchovies. hearts anchovies. serving mask mask the thebrains brainswith withaaRavigote Ravigote sauce (see sauce(see _ 'Before .'9g{11"serving SAUCE).' SAUCE).' cancalaise salad. SALADE s^reoECANCALAISE cANCALATsn - - Fill Cancalaise salado Fil lettuce rettuce leaves leaves with 1I tablespoon tablespoon each each diced diced potatoes potatoes mixed with mixed with with mayonmayon_ nalse. naise. Put on on each each lettuce lettuce leaf leaf 33 oysters oysters poached poached in Put in their their own own liquor, drained, drained, de-bearded de-bearded and and seasoned seasoned with Iiquor, with oil, oil, lemon lemon juice pepper, and and pepper, and topped topped with with aa slice slice of juice and of truffie truffie.. Arrange i;;"rg" the lettuce lettuce Ieaves leaves in in the the form form of of aa flower flower on the on aa dish dish.. This dish dish can can be be served served as as aa cold cold hors-d' hors-d œuvre. This euvre. Celeriac salad salad with with cresso cress. SALADE SALADE DE Celeriac DE CÉLERJ-RAVE cErpnr-n,c,vB À A LA rn cnnssoNrinr -- Cut cut the the celeriac julienne, blanch celeriac in julienne, CRESSONIÈRE blanch in in salted salted water, drain drain and and season season with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or A1ayonnaise water, Mayonnaise sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Arrange Arrange in in aa salad salid bowl (see SAUCE). bowl alternately uti"*ut"ty with *iit bunches ofcress. bunches of cresso Demideuil Demi-deuil salad. salad. ser.q.oE SALADE DElrr-DEUrr DEMI-DEUIL -_ Made up up of equal parts cut injulienne parts of of potatoes potatoes and truffes truffles eut in julienne and and seasoned seasoned with mustard mustard and and cream. cream . Garnish Garnish with slices of of truffies and slices slices of of potato potato set set alternately alternately in a border. Doria Doria salad. salad. s.treoE SALADE DoRrA DORIA -- Celeriac eut in julienne and cut in and seasoned seasoned with with mayonnaise, mayonnaise, arranged arranged in in aa dome. dome. Cover Coyer with with thin thin slices slices of of white white truffie. truffle. Garniih Garnish with with separate separate heaps heaps of of pplragus julienni. Sprinkle asparagus tips tips and and beetroot beetroot cut eut in in aajulienne. Sprinkle with with hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg yolk yolk and and chopped chopped paisley. parsley. Dqbany Dubarry salad. salad. sareoE SALADE DUBARRv DUBARRY _ - Arrange Arrange in in aa shallow shallow salad ofcauliflower cauliflowercooked cooked in in salted salted water water and and salad dish dish flowerets flowerets of well weildrained. drained.Garnish Garnishwith with radishes radishes and and shredded shredded watercress. watercress. Season Seasonwith with aa sauce sauce made made with with oil, oil, lemon lemonjuice, juice, satt, salt, peppe. pepper and andchopped choppedchives. chives. FFavourite avourite salad. saladosaraoe SALADEr.c,vonnn FA VORlTE-- Arrange Arrangeininaasalad saladdish, dish , ininseparate separateheaps, heaps,asparagus asparagustips, tips, shelled shelledcrayfish crayfish and and sliced sliced white whitetruffies. truffies.Season Seasonwith with oil,lemon oil, lemonjuice, juice, silt salt and and pepper. pepper. Sprinkle Sprinklewith withchopped choppedcelery celeryand andherbs. herbs. Flemish Flemishsalad. salad.s.q.rADE SALADErrlueNur FLAMANDE_- Season Seasontogether togetherchicory chicory and andpotatoes, potatoes,cut eutininthick thick strips, strips,with with oil, oil,vinigar, vinegar, salt salt ani and pepper. pepper.Add Addaafew fewsliced, sliced,cooked cookedonions. on ions.Arrange Arrangeininaadome dome and andgarnish garnishwith withfillets filletsofofsalt saltherring. herring .Sprinkle,,iitt Sprinkle with chopped opp"J parsley "t parsleyand andchervil. chervil. Francillon Japanese salad. salad. saraDE SALADE FRANCILLoN, FRANCILLON, DITE DITE Francillon_or. orJapanese JApoNArsE JAPONAISE- - Mix Mixan anequal equalpart part ofofpotatoes potatoes marinated marinated inin chablis Chablisand andmussels musselscooked cookedasasfor forMissers Musselsd àralamariniire marinière(si (see MUSSEL), MUSSEL),with withcelery. celeryArrange . Arrangeininthe theshape shapeofofa acalon) caloltedede savant savant('wise ('wiseman's man'sskull skullcap'). cap')Garnish . Garnishwith withsliced slicedtruffies. truffies. This Thissalad saladisisusually usuallyserved servedunder underthe thename nameofofJapanese Japanese salad. salad.

790 790

Salad Dubarry (Cfaire) Salad Dubarry (C/alre)

Fruit FRUlTS - Fruit salads come into the Fruitsalad. salad.SALADE DE DE FRUrrs - Fruit salads come into the category sweet dishes that of salads. They are 'ALADE categoryofofsweet dishesrather ratherthan than that ofsalads. They are seasoned ORANGE, Orange seasonedwith withsugar sugarand anda aliqueur. liqueur. (See (See ORANGE, Oiange salad.) salad.) Certain but without liqueur, are Certain fruits fruitsmade made into intoaasalad, salad, but without liqueur, are served goose and duck. servedas asan anaccompaniment accompanimenttotogame, game, goose and duck. Imperia white lettuce Imperia salad. salad. SALADE s^.raoeIMPÉRJA - _Choose bhoose white lettuce each with a mixture of asparagus leaves, leaves, regular regular in inshape. shape.Fill Fill'*rpERr,^ each with a mixture of asparagus tips in shallow glass tips and and truffies. truffies. Arrange Arrange flower flower fashion fashion in shallow gilss bowls. bowls. - Made of equal parts of Italian Italian salado salad. SAI.ADE sar,*oE ITALIENNE TTALTENNE _ Made of equal parts of the turnips and potatoes, cut the following following ingredients: ingredients: carrots, carrots, turnips and iotatoes, cut in shaped with cutter, diced in dice dice or or -shaped with aa small small vegetable vegitable cutter, diced asparagus Garnish with asparagus tips, tips, peas. peas. Mix Mix with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Garniitr with olives and capers. fillets fillets of of anchovies, anchovies, tomatoes, tomatoes, stoned stoned olives and Surround quartered hard-boiled Sprinkle"up"r.. with Surround with with quartered hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Sprinkle with chopped chopped chervi!. chervil. can be set in aspic. This salad This salad can be set in aspic. Japanese JAPONAISE - Francillon salad is Japanese salado salad. SALADE sar.rDE JApoNArsn - Franciilon sarad is often known under In Japan this salad is made often known under this this name. name. In Japan this salad is made with chrysanthemum chrysanthemum flowers . with fl owers. There is is also also a salad known as 'Japanese' which consists of There a salad known as 'Japanese' which consists of pineapple, oranges oranges and tomatoes eut in pieces, seasoned with pineapple, and tomatoes in pieces, seasoned with lem on juice, juice, arranged arranged in a salad"ui bowl and sprinkled with lemon in a salad hearts.and sprinkled with soured cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with lettucebowi soured with lettuce hearts. Lobster salad. salado SALADE DE HOMARD _ - Line the bottom of a Lobster seraoe DE HoMARD Line the bottom of a seasoned with oil salad bowl bowl with with a layer of shredded lettuce, salad a layer of shredded lettuce, seasoned with oil and vinegar vinegar and and arranged in a dome. On top of this set the and arranged in a dome. topinto of this the flesh of of the the lobster lobster claws, shelled andOneut largesetdice, flesh claws, shelled and cut into large dice, seasoned with oil and vinegar. Add the rest of the lobster seasoned with oil and vinegar. Add the rest of the-lobstei meat, sliced sliced and seasoned with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with meat, and seasoned with vinaigrette. Sprinkle with chopped chervil and tarragon. Garnish with quartered hardchopped chervil and tarragon. Garnish with quartered hardboiled eggs eggs and lettuce hearts. boiled and lettuce hearts. Spiny Iobster lobster salad. SALADE DE LANGOUSTE - Like Lobster spiny salad. saraoE DE LANGousrE salad, but made with the flesh of spiny lobster.- Like Lobster salad,but made with the flesh of spiny lobster. Maharajah salad. SALADE MAHARADJAH - Season rice l\tahalajah salad. s,qr,c.DE MAHARADJAH _ Season rice cookedinin salted water with oil, vinegar, curry and salt. Mix cooked salted water with oil, vinegar, curry and salt. Mix with crab flesh cut in dice. Surround with diced celeriac, with crab flesh cut in dice. surround with cereriac, blanched and seasoned, diced courgettes, diced blanched and blanched and seasoned, diced courgettes, blanched and seasoned, and quartered tomatoes. Sprinkle with chopped seasoned, and quartered tomatoes. Sprinkte with chopped egg yolk and chives. egg yolk and chives. Mikado salado SALADE MIKADO - Mix diced potatoes with Mikado salad. salq,oE MTKADo _ Mix diced potatoes with shrimps. Bind together with mayonnaise flavoured with soya shrimps. Bind together with mayonnaise flavoured with sova sauce.

sauce.

Garnish the top of the salad with small chrysanthemum Garnish the top of the with small petais, blanched, drained salad and seasoned withchrysanthemum oil, lem on juice, petals, blanched, drained and seasoned with oil,lemon juice,

SALAD salt and pepper. Surround with a border of sweet pimentos,

sartandrypi:Ls"o.',,:o#:JxH"t",'3trJ:iJ3"j'i'li'l1l'?i; peeled and cut in julienne, and diced tomatoes. Sprinkle with and cut rnJwrc oeeled chopped chervil.

;tffi3;rfi#l. SALADE NIÇOISE - Mix equal parts diced Niçoise salad_ - yf.i:;1t#5f::i NIqorsE ,n"oo'

potatoes and French beans. Season with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. Mix with anchovy fillets, olives and capers. Garnish cn chopped chervil and wtn with with quartered tomatoes. Sprinkle SPrinkle tomatoes' tarragon. rice cooked'in iuttueo" Oriental salad. SALADE ORIENTALE - Season rice cooked in .RIENTALE-; slreoE salad. Yton salt' papnKa and weil drained, with oil, vinegar, salt, paprika salted water yitl:tl'-:liegar' water and *"ti?"t"ltto' salted a'*nnL'^'liu;,,0;Ti":ilt"it""1'; and chopped onion. Surround with peeled, diced and seasandchoppedon'on''i"?ffi tornatoel oned sweet peppers, quartered tomatoes and black olives. quartered sweet peppers' oned Sprinkle with chopped chervil. Parisian salad. SALADE PARISIENNE - Vegetable salad with the addition slrcsliced spiny lobster or crayfish and truffies, ol of addition with theseasoned very thick mayonnaise, arranged in a domed 3J"il3,T::;ffiT"5:ill^i"fi#$ mould (like Russian sa/ad, see below) coated withtrutfles. jelly and t1,::,,^::i^i"i", Rils,sran (like and mould crayfish lobster lined with thin slices of spiny lobs ter or crayfish and truffies. spinv of sltces ", thin ingredients with linedThis salad can also served in l1t-ttfr;' a dish, ail the ingredients served bebe " tr ut'O iutnitn"a This salad can also mixed, seasoned with mayonnaise and truffies, and garni shed *Juton"a with mayonnaiseand *i^.0, hard-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts. cravnsh with quarteredt'u'iioiilo'ee' quarte"a :lt:. withPernollet salado SALADE PERNOLLET - Mix shelled crayfish sarad''*^?:. :^'::?::" and diced truffies with mayonnaise. this sarad Fililargeshell-snaP shell-shaped lettuce leaveswith with this salad. Put on Fill large"*:::Tl"TiJ,?llJlll;es each leaf a few green asparagus tips seasoned with oil and lemonjuice' juice. Arrange Arrange ffil*X?:: the leaves flower fashion on ""ll"3l: a round lemon dish. dish' I This dish i'T:::lv-i; is mostly served served asanhors-d'&uvre' as an hors-d'œuvre. dish PIMENTS rhis Sweet pimento salad à i;;r6"i". la créole. SALADE DE DE PIMENTS DOUX À 'ALADE LA CRÉOLE - Arrange in separate small mounds in a salad dish, seeded and peeled sweet pimentos, weil balanced in und. p'.;J, dish. seeded salted water and d rained, and rice cooked in salted water and ""?l^"-1'Jr'.?["i#fi:li drained. Put on each mound ofrice slices ofraw tomato and .l"'Ji';;;orricelr",-::,.,.seasonwithorr, cntvt Season with oil, chopped on the pimentos 1 teaspoon chopped chives. teaspoon on the pimentos.l vinegar, salt and and paprika. PaPrika'

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u o* with g il"v artichoke bottoms, diced or julienne potatoes,u r, mixed ?T':.r^T',tliii?:':Hffii:lli. "r selnuiwith ",. "i,tsalad'Garnish lettuce "^IlTi.r". liaphael *lttr shredded mayonnaise. green asparagus tips.

left and mixed salad with dish that has rather high with sidessalt with shredded lettuce peeled drained, wellAdd cucumber, paprika-seasoned mayonnaise. thinly sliced mixed withPreviouslYtv'el'iriiater and *tPs'rt ,jli:: asp araeus white cucumber, previously sprinkled with salt and left to stand, iaio io,o t:ii::;;diri.,"-i :::Tlll;rfr1ll_f seeded and white asparagus tips cooked in water and weil drained, peeled in roundr and unpeete9 chervil'small lettuce "", into .l^.'""d hearts and seeded tomatoes divid.ed q uarters, hearts and unpeeled radishes cut in rounds. Season with olive ffi ::::'l;l"T.oJi"1lu,#'X!'-lru;n-Arrange oil, lemon juice, salt, pepper and chopped chervil. Reine Pédauque salad. SALADE REINE PÉDAUQUE - Arrange tiesh cream' :t]' ",TiT:.:?l$l$:i;;;;;;;"'e*n.9.o1f, tit.JO"a made witfr quarters of thick. lettuce hearts in a crown. Coat these with a sauce o^'ll) the middle'r$: un Fill fresh top'salt on cherries made with thick cream, oil, mustard, lemon juice, Put:::lT u"o nittegar' oit and paprika. Fill the middle of the dish with shredded lettuce orXttfi;., peeled a piJce of t"u't pJ vinegar. of Rossini: each lettuce seasoned Put-stoned cherries on top. On RossINI ""iorJioiwith oil and sllepE each lettuce"alad' heart put a piece or peeled orange. iart il?J*"J"'. From going t" is salad. 'what Rossini SALADE ROSSINI - ot a ne a letter of Rossini: ,ilJ is going tor'un9 ,T:0" 'What interest you much more than my opera is the juice, you r" sard1 have just made of a new asalad, lemon [ttle for ii"r"" the discovery which l o.il, Fre,n1!-"ll1t#;t"r. Thenthrowrn a Provence 'Take hasten to send you the recipe. 'Take Provence oil, French vinegar, a Iittle lemon juice, pepper and salt. Whisk and mix al! together. Then throw in a few truffies, wbich you have taken care to cut in tiny pieces. a mixed The truffies give to this seasoning a- kind ofnimbus to vegetabre plunge Add.to the gourmand into an ecstasy.' llSil ,"fi RUSSE or - crawnsnm( Add to a mlxed vegetable Russian salad. SALADElobster mushrooms' sai cooked ad (seasoned with mayonnaise) pickled tongue, sausage, tonsue' trufiles' cooked mushrooms, lobs ter crawfish meat andscarlet truffies, cut anchovies' of'or in dice3:l'|i'.i'{i,"fil'u"ttt or julienne. Garnish with fillets of· anchovies, truffies, scarlet tongue, '"i:'h:L::li'l;l"i;o'Russiansaraf capers, gherkins, etc. In,r,i"i,nuvon1"t':;1'-il'"i;;T1'fff classical cookery, Russian salad, seasoned with very decorated' isAlter mayonnaise, put into a domed mould lined with jelly thickand A on-to a pla'l;"U. outAfter cnoucnours and i.,"*.0 decorated. having been weil chilledon on ice the salad sauerrra\ or water' German 'ALADF. is turned out on to a plate. "-::'^^";:;lr'' "otttomme German sauerkraut salad salad.dish' SALADE DE CHOUCROUTE À Garnsn rn a ',n""TuiK*l-suo"'k'u"l:o9ktd,ll:ft dome sauce (see Y;';;;;;;r; a in piled r,, L'ALLEMANDE - Sauerkraut cooked inwtn consommé or water, beetroot' Season of piled in a dome in a salad dish. Garnish with hard-boiled eggs and rounds of beetroot. Season with Vinaigrette sauce (see . -..LADEpncxusrec6s-Madewiththeflesh sala d (Clab e) SAUCE). Port-Royal salad (Claire) Port-RoYal ir it be craws the the .rtt}ft#JJ,tll,i#;;;t;9t'1'mn*1g,crs Shellfish salad. SALADEthe - Made with flesh shellfish .ot,Y:t],: of DE CRUSTACÉS whote tail the ,i" Season oflobster or crawfish, crab, shrimps, etc.big dice' it't itsh'in Cutofthe lobster. the shellfish as weil as the claws ir it be Slice the tail '"ti'i'f tJtll5 PoRr - RoYl.t^ lobstei. Cut the rest of the flesh in big dice. Season the whole Port-Royal salad. SALADE PORT-ROYAL.Arrange on a s nnDE i;.1^ Port-Rov al salad' . t,t"ll3H' shallow glass salad dish a mixture of potatoes, sliced*eating on - with oil, vinegar, salt, pepper, chopped parsley and chen'il. mav ith apples,nlti"* and diced French beans,ilT|i:'"fi ail seasoned with mayonOn a base of seasoned and shredded lettuce set first the ilt'uia-uo'"0:.?t-dlettucehearts' parstev' diced fish, then the sliced. Garnish of anchovies, naise. Coat the whole salad wi th more mayonnaise. Sur round and fillets chervilwith *rin'ctroppeo and quartereo with quarters of lettuce and quartered hard-boiled eggs. capers,ii,"i""u" olives, quartered hard-boiled egg and lettuce hearts. of lettuce *iii, o-Jtrs Garnish with French beans. beans' Sprinkle with chopped chervil and parsley. with French

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Sffi'"T;* sarad ii"*fi;fililT*T; JALATTE DE, cREvETTEs l-Ty DIEPporsE l-""'a' Au Made lik. Shrimp salad.- SALADE DE CREVETTES -:c See SHRIMP. repl.acing by_shrimpsu"d;;;;;-{JilT,i!i'iirf; bv o,:,f tir,:leoysters th;;y;;.; shrimps ;l;":ff-- '::*^':lod' Shrimp sai ad à;;la dieppoise. SALADE. DE CREVETTES À LA -Ysuv.!u wrrn oll, vtnegar pepper. pepper. sHRrMp.

Made like Cancalaise salad, replacing the oysters and vinegar and by shrimps and mussels seasoned as a coldwithoil, hors_d cuvre. pepper.{H*::;:L"-.._T"o ! vegetabre.a"o.soriol;;";T:,:i""exos-sinisatad. This dish can be served as a cold hors-d'œuvre. kt. general principle ,T"T*:1T3 s rs salado made SALADE up of altDE Truffle TRUFFES - See Rossini salad. ut"?l n"a, v' rrvD' v€gelaDles' -" i1,ar Season with oil, uinaDE LÉGUMES - In general principle Vegetable salado SALADE Arrange dish, *ru8.ulj,1l'1"1o.oler. made up garnish of ail k.inds of fresh vegetables. this is Lad T, ur ff uaullrlower - -'v"vrvr lffi: summit,with ff setinona i, and oil, the sprinkle Season vinegar,' salt and pepper. Arrange chervit und'^t:HL' pu.riryl" a restauranr rhe r-H-:l:P.o salad rn dish, garnish with a ftoweret of cauliflower set on the rugreorents :il':ffii,',X1:i1,",., of this.salad are set in the Iil"ffi saladsprinkle Oirf, i" with summit, and chopped chervil and parsley. _aa-.'vrs'r Thet"urooing, urrJir".i. ,ni,T.l1l rhea mixins, is odone restaurant the set In o""different ingredients ofthis salad are i. separate ";'flT:fl:unds' The seasoning, and thus in theWatercress salad dish in,U"a. si,-- mounds. '"l{4! 'M""UNTERE Half d half ispotato warercress watercress .rl,a the .131,:T*T.ttry salaitheand mixing, done before customer. with chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped choooed .,"""1:.lonnkled Watercress saI ad.parslev. SALADE CRESSONIÈRE - Half watercress and half potato salad, sprinkled with chopped hard-boiled egg and chopped parsley. - .L*.'av perenniar herb

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crushed. I';ln'.ttrr"'r",,'r*"L.Tr,i#"..*,ifii:r""o"ffitT when SALAD BURNET. PIMPRENELLE - Hardy perennial rsherb burnet withSalad slightly villous leaves which smelJ Iike cucumbers when ls avlfa,ble from June to November the followins sprine..11g and in crushed. i: u r.uroning. leaves Salad burnet is available fromca,i June to November and The in iitr,i, prant ur.oil in saladsThe like the following spring, and is mainly used as au..o seasorung. tender fresh leaves ofthis plant can also be used in salads like SALAMAN'DER. sALAMANDRE _ watercress. into which Oirrr., ur.*pui Oven, generally gas_ ::11"9, to glazegenerally surtace very rapidly.SALAMA~RE - Oyen, or brown-the SALAMANDER. gasinto alio which dishes are put to g1aze or brown the heated, word breadcrumbs -"uo, fried in butter, which ^-The are sprinkled over certarn preparations. surface very rapidly. The word also means breadcrumbs fried in butter, which are sprinkled over certain preparations.

a piece of charcutmade with the Petit salé - Name a for piece of charcuterie nr1t..!one. ^_P.:dt of thefor flank endot;"il, of the flank end of belly of pork on which a little first pone meathasu..nuro,nlS:l*"t:ry:7';::;":#t:ril:,il1: meat has been allowed to remain. It is left to salt fof 12 hours :1 wr.rr in a charcurcrie. light l,ehl brine and cooked __-_y with '1,ll':,,.#:,:,, otherurner piecespleces of boiled of bOiled charcuterie. ho_t orcord The petit salé is served hot or cold as anashors-d'œuvre. an hors-d,(pttvre. piecgs The term i" is ilri". also used for pieces of collar or neck,neck. lightly of collar,or pickted liehttv used in potées or served by themselves, pickled in brine and "iJ.t::,'9t irt.'r,uuinlH";;J;'.['i,o::":,iff after having been poached in an aromatic stock. sal6

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which SALEP - Edible substance, which cornes fromrrom Persia and comes persia i*lfr1;,iff?1,..:l*,"nce, and tubers AsiarnMinor, in the form of sm ail tubers 1 to I2to cm2 (t to(j;";;;t -i inch) diameter, cm .r.unloT-ofsma.ll yelin diameter, strung together in bunches. Translucent, r'u n,r u."n"t,' rl"r'' l"^:i:n ?#,"#. in 1X texture, and gelatinous inf"i'_ lowish greythe in col "''"our, horny flavour, , and getatinoui salep in ;;:H,l'l ::I,ut ftavour, the salep cornes from the tubers of various species of ";;;" ::^T{,1ii;fi orchis, taken up after the stalks of the plant have faded and rn rhe sun. Theycontai" ::,"1 , n""ru dried inconstiture the sun. They contain a floury substance and gelatine, r"I and an easity aie"ri"i i#ffiffiffiiv.11":,f;"Hii and constitute an easily digested foodstuff highly esteemed in the East. Indigenous orchil Indigenous orchis, treated in the same way, provide a salep comparable in every way withftthat of the East. Prepared as a jelly or soup. cEL6E sALEp- _ Salep jelly. GELÉE AUAUSALEP Mix, allowing to Mix.without w ^..];t_.n,julty. curdle, 1 teaspoon salep in 2 dl. (t pint 1 scant cup) water. Cook over eao low heat, keeping atatboiling point for 4 or 5 boiling^poin, minutes. roi'+'J."J minutes. Add a "'rirt',j"-?'ng /ittle cinnamon and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tamarind or pineapple syrup and allow to get ffi 1Xt:? cold. Salep soup. POTAGE AU SALEP - - Mix, Mix,without withour allowing .":#J,0, arowing toto dl' (1 ($pint" curdle, 1 teaspoon salep in 2'i-'.., dl. pint., 1I scant vegetable.ioir."."aaT':lli3 scantcup) cup) unsalted unsalted __* r spng of tarragon and soya vegetable sauce. stock. Add 1 sprig oftarragon and 1I teaspoon teaspJ;;;; sauce.

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SALMIGONDIS - ncgodl Ragoût ofseveral of several kinds of meat reheated. ofmear Reheated reheated. poultry ,ogoVrt Reheated poultry ragoût i,is ca lied capilotade.

"uti;;;;;;;:rrr, SALMTS _ The SALMIS - The origin ,!^r:,f,: of salmis goe. goes uacr back as as far far as the Iourteenrh :r,+,1 century as the fourteenth century. lhe.ynard The canard aà ia-ltru."r.aodine la sauce dodine of which ofwhich speaks .:.11,.u"1t in his his Viandie; Viandier was a kind of ofsalmis' salmis. Sorne Taillevent speaksin wnters, however. some tr'it dish woS was tnvented invented at the writers, however, say tt'ut beginning 6116".1rY that this ;l;';'no at the

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beginning the eighteenth cent ury. Duck d ,o of rou"ri-\ilt11' "1t1'v'orr Duck à la rouennaise, oneofofthe thefinest finestdishes dishesofofNormandy Normandy xi"i"{it3:,tne "ootingirl made cooking, is a kind of salmis withred redwine. wine.InIn the same way it ; ;il;:.ir-satmis madewith ;ffi#: way it is also possible to cJass as salmis, caneton en chemise, canard sauvage (wild duck) or bécasse (woodcock) au b",'. orofother Chambertin, and a number otherprepa.att preparations birds which, on. oi'of6irll _ __..,8 X]T nnrshed in in which, before being finished a special sauce, two-thirds a speciai sauce, roasted. areare two_thirds roasted. or Cook the bird in the oyen or on the spit, for two-thirds on the spit, ,q.t;."":r'g",jt,*r'i'r9,':eq for two-thirds of the necessary time. Divide into joints, remove the skin of and j 1.. dish with trim the pieces. Arrange· them a buttered sauté : ?inTi,,ilT.3Y:' 3T,*. m ushro oms and sriced t.um..-ilJriil,"#r': mushrooms and sllced truffies (salmis being a jt1l dish that is :: Ii often fini shed off at the table before the guests, it is important ,"j,""f,Ti1".*ff lil._,:o"u"r.l,.ii,"elL,.,,,isimportanr to choose a decorative pan made of silver plate or sorne other good-Iooking metal). Sprinkle with : a few tablespoons Demi;,:Tglace i urj) andand cook over hot water for 30 sauce (see SAUCE) cook over n", ili,,iio minutes. the carcases Heat broken-up the broken-up carcases and trimmings of the in and trimr of.the birdbird "..Y"utin a casserote. Add ,t. .?.Y11.. in a casserole. Add the cooking juices dilutedinwith whrtebutter diluted wine, and a fewv tablesPoont with ""rtj"""l1l*. few tablespoons game-flavoured Espagnole white wine, and a rr;;;^::j,^l-ng^Jurces

ri*;:i#,"'^-"i\'il,H!fi',:'#';;:'7::n'i;f Ii; ;";;;";;";

Salamb6 cakes ( Maison Desmeuzes. phot. I^aroussel

SALAMBO

Salambô cakes (Maison Desmeuzes. Phol. Larousse)

cake made with Chou Db*uC6:fi,[0",I"]' paste (see "-:,ff cream n u u*,J t. Chou c n ei rvr".ii(see ?i'ii - Small SALAMBO cake made with : T;f !: i"X "' paste DOUGH), filled with French pastry cream (see CREAMS) s,

ff

- Product of Itatian charcuterrceaten flavoured with kirsch. The top is iced.

:rirtfi

rike mortudSalamis SALAMlProduct ofproducts Italian charcuterie eaten like morladare commercial sold in food shops. Dv,u The el/a (q.v.). is thar gofosnu.lr

r?l,llT*red

of Salamis are commercial products sold in food shops. The countries of Europe most renowned is thatofof Bologna. "otth".n the similarpreparations' "#'.Yr"#:11#Xf."*t In Germany and various northern countries of Europe the SALANGANE - rrntttt name is given to a variety of similar the Farpreparations. East whose nests, constructed ogr."ru.1rtl-1119*.9r

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gunl.-"fluu oured sauce (see sAUcE, Espagnole sauce). Salmis sauce). a few moments Boil Boil for.aforf'ew a.?tmis u.na sauce (see SAUCE, momenrs

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strain, pressing ail tim.e' the time, througb a strainer and first first through then and r""i".. throug'h then through a c1oth. Boil it down, add butter, and pour it " " "t"in"'Tng over the pieces of bird and the garnish. Heat, still without esteemed by the gourmets of China. They are sold in Europe boiling, 5 minutes more, serve, and serve, on a big croûton of eithereither o1g big crooton of as Swal/ows' neSlS (see NESTS; SOUPS AND BROTHS, ur"aaip."oJ'*riiT1ll:.lnd bread spread with ài ngratinforcemeat (seeR FORCEMEATS) Satted or pickled foodstuffs, fo r c e m e ar ( see F.o u n o p u irt=iu' 6i : ! Consommé with birds' nests). ;;' synonymous with and put for a short time in the oyen, or in a dish. In the latter oven' orin u oisr,.ln-;;;il;l casesurround with nj?1"1" with heart-shaped croûtons fried in butter and SALÉ - Salted or pickled foodstuffs, synonymous with spreadcase surround cro 0 t ons rried in b *t ut ter an J ;";with;;àgralinforcemeat. spread salaison.

SALANGANE - Sea swallow of the Far East whose nests, 3ste;megbt;;;;;T;:.T:l8il[1:?,#';,,Jll,?lxt*,it# constructed of seaweed fixed with the birds' saliva, are highly

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792

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SALMON SALMON bouillon and and served served with with the the same same sauces sauces as those those prescribed prescribed bouillon or in in sections; sections; grilled, grilled, or or sautded sautéed in in for salmon salmon cooked cooked whole whole or for butter, or or braised. braised. These These have have the the same same garnishes garnishes as as for for large large butter, pieces pieces or or whole whole salmon. may also also be be prepared prepared in fillets, which which are cooked Salmon may sautded or otherwise, otherwise, or or cut cut in slices slices which are are sautéed whole, braised braised or whole, sauces and of sauces in butter and and accompanied by by a a variety variety of in garnishes. garnishes. and becomes flesh of the salmon, which which is is pinkish and The flesh is fatty and delicate. It is extremely delicate. bright pink when when cooked, is extremely bright little indigestible. often aa little LE cUIRE LE PouR CUIRE couRT'BouILLoN POUR Court-bouillon for salmon. COURT-BOUILLON Court-bouillon (4! pints, pints, 51 5| pints) 2| litres litres (41 SAUMON - Put into a saucepan 21 sAUMoN or lemon cup) vinegar or scant 1i cup) water, I1 dl. di. (6 tablespoons, scant water, g.,(9 oz.,2f juice, 300 g. (Il carrotS and 250 g. (II oz., 2~ cups) carrots (9 oz., 2* cups) oz.,2f parsley g. (2 ll cups) cups) parsley oz., 11 50 g. finely chopped, 50 onions, both finely Q oz., (l' oz.,·1 g- (I oz., I 25 g. thyme and and 25 of thyme stalks, aa bayleaf, bayleaf, aa sprig sprig of stalks, Ten hour. Ten for 1I hour. very slowly slowly for Boil very tablespoon) rock rock salt. salt. Boil tablespoon) (l* teaspoons) 10e. 01 add lOg. offthe before taking it off the heat add minutes before cool before before sieve and and cool fine sieve peppercorns. through aa fine peppercorns. Strain Strain through using. Place the the court-bouillon. Place To whole salmon salmon in in aa courl-bouillon. cook aa whole To cook courtwith cold cold courtsalmon on the grid of the the fish-kettle. Cover with the grid point. Skim, turn the the Skim, turn bouillon. Bring the to boiling point. up to the liquid up boiling. heat very low, and without boiling. it poach without and let il The côtelettes cbtelettes To court-bouillon. The in court-bouillon. ciltelettes in To cook cook salmon côtelettes they are are but they preparcd as are cooked ove, but as ab above, in court-bouillon court-bouillon prepared cooked in low over low put Cook over boiling. Cook is already already boiling. put into the liquid when itit is liquid when heat without boiling. boiling. Proceed as as To court-bouillon. Proceed in court-bouillon. of salmon salmon in cuts of cook large large cuts To cook for whole salmon. whole salmon. may Salmon, cutlets, may cuts or or cutlets, in large large cuts whole, in whether whole, Salmon, whether prepared with with half half equally in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon prepared cooked in well be be cooked equally weil with the the same same white flavoured with This isis flavoured water. This half water. wine and and half white wine vegetables but court'bouillon, but for ordinary ordinary court-bouillon, indicated for as are are indicated vegetables as putting them in they them in before putting in butter butter before cooked in be cooked fint be should first they should the when the the chiefly when used chiefly This latter latter court-bouillon court-bouillon isis used liquor. This the liquor. salmon in its its cooking cooking cooled in will be be cooled and will served cold cold and to be be served salmon isis to liquor. liquor.

This method method of ofpreparation preparation isis applicable applicable not not only only to to game game This birds (woodcock, (woodcock, wild wild duck, duck, pheasant, pheasant, partridge, partridge, etc.) etc.) but but birds alsoto to some sorne poultry poultry (duck, (duck, pigeon, pigeon, guinea-fowl, guinea-fowl, etc.). etc.). also SALMON. sAUMoN SAUMON - Migratory fish living living in in the the sea sea but but fish SALMON. - Migratory spawning in in fresh fresh water. water. At At the the time time of ofspawning makes its its spawning itit makes spawning way up up certain certain rivers. rivers. way Salmon take take no no nourishment nourishment so so long long as as they they are are in in fresh fresh Salmon water, so so their their flesh flesh isis at at its its driest driest and and least least good good when when they they go go water, down the the rivers rivers again again to to the the sea. sea. down Born in in the the rivers, rivers, the the young young salmon salmon begins begins to develop Born there, not not going going far far from from its its birthplace birthplace during during the the first few there, weeks. Then, Then, following following the the flow flow of of the the river, river, itit goes goes down down to weeks. the depths depths of of the the sea, sea, where where its nourishment nourishment consists consists mainly the of the post-larvae post-larvae ofherrings of herrings and and otherfish. other fish. ofthe The salmon salmon can can live live without without going to the sea, sea, as as has been The observed in in Norway Norway and and Sweden, Sweden, where it inhabits inhabits certain observed freshwater lakes; lakes; during during the the winter winter and in spring it goes up freshwater the river river to to spawn. spawn. It It returns returns to to the the lakes lakes later to build itself the just as as the the salmon salmon of of other other rivers rivers return return to the the sea. up again, again, just sea. up The same same thing thing happens happens in certain certain Canadian lakes where The salmon hibernate. hibernate. But But these these develop develop much less less rapidly than salmon the salmon salmon which which travel travel to to the the se a, and and the quality of their sea, the is inferior inferior to to that that of of their their fellows fellows who have have followed the flesh is flesh naturallaw of their existence. existence. law oftheir natural Salmon which wruch have have attained maximum development their maximum attained their Salmon to 11 measure from from 1l|* to (4 to and their weight ft.) in in length length and m (4 to 55 ft.) 1{ m measure ranges from from 55 to to 77 kg. kg. (11 at (Il to size at They achieve achieve this size l5 lb.). lb.). They to 15 ranges the age age of about 66 years. years. In been fished fished have been salmon have In Scotland, Scotland, salmon the ofabout weighing up up to coast (75 lb.). the Pacific Pacific coast In the the U.S.A. U.S.A. the lb.). In kg. (75 to 35 35 kg. weighing to 27 lb.) salmon to 60 601b.) 27 kg. kg. (6 to from 2~ 2f;to in weight weight from varies in salmon varies The smoking, preserved by drying, smoking, by drying, is preserved flesh of salmon is The flesh of salmon cut in chunks canning chunks whole or orcut is cooked cooked whole fish is The fish or freezing. freezing. The canning or or (steaks). or cutlets cutlets (steaks). in pieces, In pieces, in in aa poached, whole orin whole or is often often poached, In France, France, salmon salmon is flavoured (see below), or cold, cold, hot or served hot and served below), and court-bouillon (see flavoured court-bouillon with, sauces the sauces of the or other other of hot fish, fish, one one or the hot in the the case of the with, in case of normally such as: as: in court-bouillon, court'bouil/on, such cooked in with fish fish cooked normally served served with Anchovy, NanMousseline, NanLobster, Mousseline, Shrimp, Lobster, Butter, Caper, Caper, Shrimp, Anchovy, Butter, tua, etc. Vinitienne, etc. Ravigote, Vénitienne, tua, Ravigote, Cold such as: as: sauces such cold sauces by cold accompanied by salmon isis accompanied Cold salmon Mayonnaise, (see etc. (see Vincent, etc. Verte, Rémoulade, Rhmouladc, Vincent, Tartare, Verte, Mayonnaise, Tartare, SAUCE). sAUCE). Salmon (stuffed or or otherwise), otherwise), whole (stuffed braised whole be braised may also also be Salmon may and fishfumet (q.v.) (q.v.) made red or or with red made with infishfumet slowly in cooked very very slowly and cooked white plain or garnishes, plain or various garnishes, in this this way way various Prepared in white wine. wine. Prepared rnixed, the salmon. salmon. mixed, accompany accompany the Whole on cooked on pieces, itit may may also also be be cooked into smaller smaller pieces, or cut cut into Whole or the the spit. spit. Côtelettes of salmon are cooked in many ways: in courtCbtelettes of salmon are cooked in many ways: in court-

HOT cHAUDslurrloN CHAUDHOT SALMON. SALMON. SAUMON Marinate Salmon DE SAUMON sAUMoN - - Marinate ATTEREAUX DE attereaux. ATTEREAUX Salmon attereaux. parsley, salt pieces and saltand chopped parsley, pieces of in oil, lemon juice, chopped oil, lemonjuice, of salmon salmon in pepper. mushrooms. with sliced sliced mushrooms. skewers with pepper. Thread on skewers them on Thread them Coat (see SAUCE), cold,dip dip when this this isiscold, andwhen SAUCE), and sauce(see in Villeroi Villeroi sauce Coat in garnish with in with fatand and garnish deep fat Fry inin deep in egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Fry egg and fried quarters of parsley and of lemon. lemon. and quarters fried parsley Boiled DESAUMON SAUMoN DARNEDE sauces. DARNE with various varioussauces. salmon with Boiled salmon BOUILLIE Drainitit incourt-bouillon. cour t'bouillon. Drain ofsalmon salmon in chunk of Cook aachunk soutrt,lr -- Cook and potatoes. Serve Serve parsley and andboiled boiled potatoes. garnish with fresh parsley with fresh and garnish with fish:Anchovy, Anchovy, thataccompany accompany fish: thesauces saucesthat ofthe with one orother other of one or

Salmon

793 793 Hot soufflés: orange, strawben:y and chocolate fiavours (Phol. Nicolas) Hot soufres: orange, strawberry and chocolate flavours (Plrot. Nicolas)

SALMON SALMON Butter, Caper, Caper, Cardinal, Cardinal, Shrimp, Shrimp, Curry, Curry, Diplomat, Diplomat, HollanHollanBuller, Lobster, Laguipière, Laguipibre, Mousseline, daise, Lobster, Mousseline, Mustard, Mustard, Nantua, Nantua, daise, Noisette, Ravigote, Ravigote, Riche, (see Riche, Vénitienne, Vbnitienne, White White wine wine (see Noisette, sAUCE). SAUCE). Boiled salmon salmon ài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. SAUMON sAUMoN BOUILLI BourLLr A A L'ANGLAISE L',q,ncuusE -Boiled Cook the the salmon salmon in in salted water without salted water without herbs herbs or or condicondiCook ments. Drain, Drain, and and serve serve with with Lobster Lobster sauce sauce or Parsley sauce or Parsley sauce ments. (see SAUCE) and cucumber salad. (see SAUCE) and cucumber salado Braised salmon. salmon SAUMON sAUMoN BRAISÉ sRArsE -- Whole Whole braised braised salmon salmon Braised prepared with may be be prepared with or or withciut without stuffing. stuffing. ItIt isis usually usually may garnished with (see FORCEMEATS) *ith Pike Pike forcemeat FORCEMEATS) to to forcemeat (see garnished which truIDes truffies or or aa shellfish shellfish butter butter may may be be added. added. which The salmon salmon isis set set on on the the well-buttered grid of well-buttered grid of the the fishfishThe kettle. The The bottom pan isis lined bottom of the pan of the lined with with chopped chopped carrots carrots kettle. and onions, onions, lightly lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Fish Fish fumet made with with and fumet made white or or red red wine poured in wine isis poured in to to come come half-way half-way up up the the white garni and salmon. A A bouquet bouquet garni and seasoning seasoning are are added added and and the the salmon. poached in saknon isis poached (see CULINARY in the the usual usual way way (see CULINARY salmon METHODS, Poaching). Poaching). METHODS, Once cooked, cooked, the the salmon is drained, salmon is drained, skinned, skinned, and glazed in and glazed in Once the oven. oven. It It isis set set on on aa low low dish, dish, sUITounded surrounded with with the the the prescribed garnish, garnish, and and coated coated with with aa sauce prepared with sauce prepared with its its prescribed cooking liquor. liquor. cooking the ways ways of preparing slices All the of preparing slices and and chunks chunks of given of salmon salmon given Ali elsewhere are are applicable applicable to to whole, whole, braised braised salmon. salmon. elsewhere Salmon Chambord. Chambord. DARNE DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN CHAMBORD cHAMBoRD -- Cut Cut aa Salmon thick slice slice from from the the salmon. salmon. Braise Braise it it very very slowly slowly in fumet thick fumet made with with red red or or white white wine. wine. made Drain the glaze it the salmon salmon and and glaze it in in aa slow slow oven oven for for aa few few Drain minutes. Set Set on serving dish dish and on aa serving and surround surround it it with with Chambord Charnbord minutes. (see GARNISHES). garnish GARNISHES). garnish (see Coat with with Genevoise (see SAUCE) Genevoise sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made made with with the Coat braising juices. braisingjuices. Cutlets of of salmon. salmon. corsr,rrrEs sAr.JMoN Cutlets of of Cutlets CÔTELETTES DE DE SAUMON - Cutlets salmon describe describe the the following: salmon following: l.1. Salmon Salmon cutlets cutlets or or slices slices which halved down down which have have been been halved the and trimmed shape of of cutlets. These are are cutlets. These the middle middle and trimmed into into the the shape cooked little of of their cooked in in butter, butter, and and sprinkled sprinkled with with aa Iittle their cooking cooking butter or accompanied of sauces sauces and accompanied by by any any of of a a variety variety of butter or garnishes. garnishes. 2. 2. Croquette Croquette made made with with aa croquette croquette rnixture mixture (see (see HORSHORSD'(EUVRE, D'ŒUVRE, Hot Hot hors-deuvre hors-d'œuvre cutletsl cutlets) fashioned fashioned into into the shape of cutlets, cutlets, coated coated in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cooked shape of in in butter. butter. 3. 3. Light Light dish dish served served as as hot hot hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre or or small small entrte,in entrée, in which which a a salmon salmon quenelle quenelle mixture mixture is is put put into into cutlet-shaped cutlet-shaped moulds moulds and and poached. poached. Cutlets of salmon salmon ià I'am6ricaine. l'américaine. c0rsmrrEs CÔTELETTES oe DE sA.urvroN SAUMON A A Cutlets of L'AMERTcATNE L'AMÉRICAINE - Half Half slices slices of of salmon salmon trimmed trimmed into into cutlet cutlet shape, and floured. floured. Cook Cook in shape, seasoned seasoned with with salt salt and and pepper pepper and half half butter butter and and half half oil. oil. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, set set them them on on aa dish, dish, and and put put on on top top of of each each aa slice of lobster lobster prepared prepared ità lamtricaine /' américaine (see (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). slice of Garnish ofthe the dish dish with with aa salpicon salpicon of ofdiced diced lobster lobster Garnish the the middle middle of (made of the the lobster lobster flesh). flesh). Coat Coat with with American American (made with with the the rest rest of sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cuflets of salmon salmon braised braised with with red red wine. wine. c0rsrnrrgs CÔTELETTES ps DE Cutlets of prm LA BouRGurcNoNNE SAUMoN SAUMON nnnsfts BRAISÉES AU AU vrN VIN RoucE, ROUGE, DITE AALA BOURGUIGNONNECook Cook the the cbtelettes côtelettes in in afishfumet a fishfumet made made with with red red wine. wine. Drain Drain them set and on a serving dish or on heart-shaped them and set on a serving dish or on heart-shaped cro0tons croûtons of of bread bread fried fried in in butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with little little cooked cooked mushrooms mushrooms and and little little glazed glazed onions. onions. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor liquor and and thicken thicken itit with with Kneaded Kneaded butter Pour over over butter(see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). Add Add more morebutter butter and and strain. strain. Pour the fish. the fish. Instead mixing butter butter and and flour flour into into this this sauce sauce itit may may be be Instead of ofmixing thickened thickcned by by adding adding 22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons Espagnole Espagnole Sauce Sauce II II (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Cut raw raw salmon salmon ioto piece is into slices slices across across the the width width of ofthe body; the the tail tail piece is cut cut Cut the body; lengthwise

(Iarotsse) Cutting cooked cooked salmon salmon (Larousse) Cutting

First length incision incision First make make a full fuliiength

Fold sm on on both both sides sides ofthe of the incision incision F old back back the the skin

Divide Oeshinto intoportions portionsand and rernove removewitl withaafork fork Dividethe theflesh

794 794

SALMON SALMON Cutletsofofsalmon salmon braised braisedwith with white white wine. wine. c0rnr,nrrrs CÔTELETTES on DE Cutlets Cook the the c6telettes côtelettes very very - cook made in madewith withwhite whitewine. wine. slowly infishfumet arrangethem themon onaadish dishininthe theshape ofofaacrown. crown. Drain and arrange Coat with White White wine wine Decorate with with the the required garnish. Coat Decorate (see SAUCE) to to which has has been been added added (before (before sauce (see sauce straining)some sorneof ofthe thecooking cookingliquid, liquid, well weIlboiled boiled down. down. straining) Thus prepared, prepared, the the ciltelettes côtelettesmay rnay be be accompanied accornpanied by by one one Thus orother other of ofthe the garnishes gamishes usually usually served served with with braised braised fish 6sh and and or coated with with aasauce saucewhich which will will blend blend with with the the garnish. gamish. coated ofsalmon salmon ià lala florentine. 8orentine. cOTBLETTEs CÔTELETTES os DE sluLIoN SAUMON AÀ Cutlets of Cutlets LA FLoRENTINI FLORENTINE -- The The cbtelettes côtelettes are are cooked cooked very very slowly in In LA

SAUMON nncJsFFs BRAISÉES AU AU vIN VIN BLANC BLANC sAUMON

concentrated fish fish fumet. Drain Drain and and arrange them thern in aa concentrated ofspinach spinach which wbich has has been cooked, cooked, on aa layer of fireproof dish on dried, roughly roughly chopped, chopped, simmered simmered in in butter, butter, and and drained, dried, Coat with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (sec with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Coat seasoned with SAUCE). sAUCE). SprinkJe with with grated grated cheese cheese and and aa little little melted melted butter, butter, and and Sprinkle brown weIl. brownwell. Cutlets of ofsalmon salmon Mornay. Mornay. cOrErsrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE SAUMoN SAUMON MoRNAY MORNAY Cutlets salmon dà laflorentine, Prepare in in the the same sa me way as as Cutlets Cutlets of ofsalmon laflorentine, -- Prepare but leave leave out out the the layer layer ofspinach. but Cutlets of of salmon salmon with with mushrooms mushrooms ià la crime. crème. cOTELErrEs CÔTELETTES Cutlets DE sAUMoN SAUMON AUx AUX cHAMPIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS A À re LA cnilc CRÈME - Season the DE côtelettes, fIour them them and and cook cook in butter. butter. When When they they are are halfc\telettes,flour put 22 or or 33 mushrooms mushrooms for each cbtelette côtelette into the the pan. pan. cooked put Finish cooking cooking together. Finish Drain the pieces and arrange arrange them on a dish or on heartDrain of bread bread fried in butter. butter. Set the mushrooms croûtons of shaped crottons of the ciltelettes. côtelettes. Coat with the cooking juices diluted on top of or 22 and'l1 or lY"'''U'_U'~, with fresh cream cream and butter added, and with Madeira, tab1lespo.:ms fish thickening, frsh Velouté Veloutt sauce (see SAUCE) for thickening, tablespoons strained. the whole boiled down and strained. and Madeira. mushrooms and Cutlets with musmooms of salmon salmon with Cutlets of MAotnn -- Cook CÔTELETTES AUx CHAMPIGNONS cHAMPIcNoNs AU MADÈRE sAUMoN AUX c0rnrsrrEs DE SAUMON sauce made by the fish and mushrooms as above. Coat with a sauce few and adding aa few Madeira and with Madeira diluting dilutihg the cooking juices with (see SAUCE), down, I af!11ole sauce SAUCE), boiled down, tab1lespoc)ns sauce II II (see Espagnole tablespoons ESf, sauce strained. strained. extra butter added, and and the sauce DE SAUMON SAUMoN c0tprerrEs DE Cutlets salmon Pojarski. CÔTELETTES Cutlets of of salmon (3 g. (3 poJARsKI -- Mash 75 g. (l I oz.) salmon flesh, adding 75 g. (l POJARSKI 300 g. Mash 300 milk in milk been soaked in have been OZ., 11 cups) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs which have oz.,lt (3 oz., tablespoons) g. (3 oz., 66 tablespoons) possible, and 75 g. and and 75 as possible, as dry dry as and piessed as

ments, ments, and and pour pour round round the the sauce. sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the cutlets cutlets with with put Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butfers) and and put

paper frills paper frillson onthe theends. ends. -Coulibiac I kg. (2t lb.) ofsalmon. salmon. couLIBIAc COULIBIAC DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- 1 kg. (2i lb.) Coulibiacof Brioche Briochedough.I/(see dough Il (seeDOUGH) DOUGH)made madewithout withoutsugar sugarand andkept kept rather ratherfirm firro so sothat that ititcan can be beeasily easily rolled rolled out' out. quickly in Sautd Sauté 750 750 g. g. (tj lb.) lb.) salmon, salmon, cut eut in in small small slices, slices, quickly in butter. butter. Season Seasonwith salt salt and and pepper. Allow Allow to to cool. cool. g. Cook Cookin in light lightconsommd consommé or salted water, for for 3f hours, bours, 75 75 g. sturgeon) (the ofthe cord spinal (3 notochord sturgeon oz.) (3 oz.) sturgeon notochord (the spinal of the sturgeon) which which has has been been previously previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water water for for 55 hours' hours. it roughly. Drain Drain and and chop ehop it roughly. Prepare kasha or or pudding pudding of of semolina semolina in in the the following following Prepare aa kasha

-

3t

way: way: mix mix 200 200 g. (7 (7 oz., oz., generous generous cup) cup) large grain grain wheat wheat semolina semolina with with 1 beaten egg. Spread Spread in in aa baking tin tin and and dry dry

out out in in aa slow slow oven. oyen. Put Put the semolina semolina through through aa coarse coarse sieve. sieve. Cook Cook itit in in consommd, consommé, drain, drain, and and allow allow itit to to cool. cool. Chop Chop 33 hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. Cook Cook 75 75 g. g. (3 oz., OZ., ? i "np) cup) chopped chopped onion, onion, 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 o2.,2 OZ., 2 cups) cups) cultivated cultivated chopped chopped and and pressed pressed mushrooms. mushrooms. Remove Remove in eggs onion onion and and mushrooms, mushrooms, and and toss toss the the chopped chopped eggs in the the cooking cooking butter. butter. To To make make and and cook cook coulibiac. coulibiac. Roll Roll out out the the brioche brioche dough dough into into aa rectangle 30 30 to to 35 35 cm. cm. (12 (12 to to 14 14 inches) inches) long long and and 20 20 cm cm of ingredients various (8 (8 inches) inches) wide. In In the the middle middJe set set the the various of on top the the filling, filling, arranging them thern in in layers layers one one on top of the other otherhardsturgeon notochord, of salmon, sturgeon semolina, slices ofsalmon, cooked cooked semolina, notochord, hardingredients all these and mushrooms boiled these ingredients boiled eggs eggs and mushrooms mixture, mixture, aIl semolina. of cooked cooked semolina. layer of quite cold. Finish with cold. Finish being being quite witb aa layer side. from each each side. the edges edges from paste by over the folding over by folding the paste Close up Close up the water before before with water damped with lightly damped be lightly should be The edges edges should The it tin, tuming turning it baking tin, on aa baking the coulibiac coulibiac on pressing together. Put the together. Put pressing it in in aa warm warm Put it the bottom. bottom. Put is on on the side sealed si that the the sealed over so so that over de is rise. to rise. for the the dough to place for for 30 30 minutes minutes for place with breadbreadsprinkle witb butter, sprinkle with melted butter, surface with Brush the the surface Brush escape. the steam steam escape. to let let the in the the top top to opening in Make an an opening crumbs. Make crumbs. to 1I hour, hour, minutes to for 45 45 minutes hot oyen oven for moderately hot in aa moderately Cook in Cook coulibiac. of the the coulibiac. the size size or to the according to according the hole hole pour into it, through through the into it, the oyen oven pour from the When taking taking itit from When butter. melted butter. few tablespoons tablespoons melted in the the top, top, aa few in sauce. of aa sauce. the accompaniment accompaniment of without the served without Coulibiacis Coulibiac is served DE sAuMoN couLIBIAcs DE PETITS COULIBIACS salnon. PETITS of salmon. Small coulibiacs coulibiacs of SAUMON SmaU light or Iight hors-deuvre or as hors-d'œuvre served as which are are served coulibracs, which Small coulibiacs, Small as above above with the same ingredients as made by filling with entrhes,are entrées, are made with cut out out with pieces or of Ordinary Ordinary brioche dough (see DOUGH) cut pieces (4t inches) in inches) in pastry-cutter about 12 cm' (4t fluted-edged pastry-cutter a fluted-edged diameter. diameter. cntrus DE SAUMON sAUMoN CRÈME gral'n. BORDURE BoRDURE DE au gratin. salmon au Creamed salmon Creamed au cod au llkeCreamed salmon like Creamed cod left-over salmon with left-over Made with cRATIN -- Made GRATIN (see COD). gratin (see COD). gratin

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fresh butter. grated nutmeg. nutmeg. pinch of of grated pepper and Season and aa pinch salt, pepper with salt, Season with Divide cutlers. shape of of cutlers. into the the shape this mixture mixture into Divide this

i

on both both are browned browned on Cook they are until they butter, until in clarified clarified butter, Cook in butter. sides. the cooking cooking butter. with the To serve, serve, sprinkle sprinkle with sides. To by accompanied by usually accompanied Salmon are usually Pojarski are cutlets Pojarski Salmon cutlets and in butter, butter, and green vegetable tossed tossed in sautéed potatoes or or aa green sautded potatoes the sauces sauces designed for fish. ofthe any of AUx DESAUMON SAUMoN AUX corernrrEs DE trufres. CÔTELETTES of salmon salmon with truOles. Cuttets of are almost almost they are When they TRUFFES in butter. butter. When cutlets in Saut6 the the cutlets rRuFFEs -- Sauté with seasoned with truffies seasoned cooked pan thick slices of of truffies thick slices into the the pan cooked put into pancovered, over covered' over thepan salt with the pepper. Finish cooking, with Finish cooking, salt and pepper. slow heat. slow heat. on stceson the truffie truffie slices setthe Arrange dishand and set onaadish the cutlets cutlets on Arrange the to withMadeira Madeira to diluted with top. cooking juices diluted thecookingjuices withthe top. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Demitablespoons)Demiwhich tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) added 22tablespoons havebeen beenadded which have stock. fishstock. glace (seeSAUCE) onconcentrated concentratedfish based on glacesauce SAUCE) based sauce(see os corsrnrrEs DE cream.CÔTELETTES Cutlets andcream. tnrflesand withtruffles ofsalmon salmonwith Cutlets of the dilutingthe butdiluting SAUMON Asabove, above,but cRil'G- -As r,c.CRÈME AuxTRUFFES TRUFFEs ÀALA sAUMoNAUX cream. freshcrearn. ~~'J'~"b ~.'~u with andfresh withMadeira Madeiraand cooking,) juices or c6rBlrrrns DE garnished. CÔTELETTES variously garnished. salmonvariously Cutlets ofofsalmon plNfEs- - Prepare forCutlets Cutlets SAUMON cutletsasasror thecutlets Prepare the HActrEEs,PANÉES sAUMoNHACHÉES, breadcrumbs. ofsalmon but coat andbreadcrumbs. withegg eggand coatthem themwith Pojarski,but of salmonPojarski, onaa crownon Cook formofofaacrown theforro Setininthe butter.Set clarified butter. Cookininclarified prescribedaccompaniaccompaniserving theprescribed withthe middle with dish,fill themiddle fillthe servingdish,

of

cRoQIJETTES, salmon. CROQUETTES, cromesquis of salmon. Croquettes and cromesquis Croquettes salpicon withaasalpicon madewith areboth both made These are DESAUMON sAUMoN- - These cRolr{Eselns DE CROMESQUlS

and

mushrooms andmushrooms dicedtruffies trufres and with diced mixed witb salmonmixed cooked salmon of cooked of (see SAUCE, SAUCE, sauce (see Btcharnel sauce or Béchamel with Allemand Allemand or bound with bound CROMESQUI). CROQUETTES,CROMESQUI). CROQUETTES, Braise aa DAUMoNT - - Braise DESAUMON sAUMoN DAUMONT DARNE DE Daumont. DARNE Salmon Damnont. Salmon (q.v.)made wine. withwhite whitewine. madewith ofsalmon salmonininafrshfumel chunk of chunk a fishfumet (q.v.) withDaumont Daumont Surround with dish. Surround serving dish. setititon onaaserving Drain and andset Drain itsstrained strainedcooking cooking (seeGARNISHES). Coat with withits garnish(see GARNISHES). Coat garnish (see SAUCE). juicesand sauce(see with Nantua Nantua sauce andserve servewith SAUCE). juices Theseare arecu cut DESAUMON sAUMoN- -These EscALoPEsDE ofsaJ.mon. salmon.ESCALOPES Escalopes of t Escalopes oz.) 100g.g.(4(4oz.) weighabout about100 shouldweigh andshould salmon,and ofsalmon, fromfillets filletsof from each. each. that if necessary sosothat trimmed ifnecessary andtrimmed flattenedand Theyare are lightlyflattened They poachinin butter, ororpoach Cookininbutter, shape.Cook theyare are oval inshape. they fisb,fume t. concentrate dfishfumet. concentrated of slicesof lndslices for prepaingcitelettes describedfor waysdescribed Allthe theways AlI côtelettes and escalopes. areapplicable applicabletoto"",-an,p'-',:>. salmonare salmon 795 795

SALMON SALMON Salmonfillets. FTLETsDE DESAUMON sluuoNThinslices slicesof ofsalmon salmoneut cut Salmon fillets. FILETS - Thin fromraw rawfillets. fillets.They Theyare are prepared like likesalmon salmoncutlets. cutlets,steaks steaks from andescalopes, escalopes,and andare are fried,either eithercoated coatedininegg eggand and
Chablis. 'Surround 'Surround the the salmon salmon with with light bards bards of of bacon bacon fat fat and and tie tie it; it; put put itil like like this this into into the the saucepan. saucepan. Strain Strain the the fish stock stock at at the the end end of of45 45 minutes, minutes, during during which which itil will have have simmered simmered gently. Pour Pour itit over over the the salmon salmon and and give itit 20 20 to to 30 30 minutes minutes torrger. longer. Drain and allow allow to to cool. cool. Strain the the fish fish stock, stock, removJal remove ail Drain itit and grease grease from from itil and and boil boil itil down, down, so so that that itît can can be be used used to to make make aa Financiire Financière sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). 'Line 'Line aa mould mould with wilh pastry pastry suitable suitable for for aa hot hot entie. entrée. Spread Spread the the bottom bottom and and sides sides with with the the prepared pike forcemeat, forcemeat, to 10 which which add add 22 chopped raw truffies. Slightly trim trim the the salmon, salmon, put put itit into intothe thepie pie and cover with pastry. pastry. Bake inin the the oven oven for for" I hour. hour. Take Take off off the the pastry pastry lid !id and and the the forcemeat forcemeat which which are are masking masking the Ihe top top of of the the salmon, salmon, and and carefully careful!y remove remove all ail grease. grcase. Garnish Garnish the thetop topwith with aaragofit ragoût of ofsoft soft roes, roes, trufles truffles and and mushrooms, mushrooms. and and coat coat with with the the preparcdfinancibre sauce. 'If 'Ifitit isis desired desired to to serve serve the the pie cold, prepare in the same way, way, but bul do do not nol take take offpastry off pastry lid. The The fish fish stock stock should should be be more moreconcentrated, concemraled, with withft glass glassMadeira Madeira added added totait,it, poured pie into the through into the throughthe theopening left leftininthe thepastry lid. lid, bo not not serve serve this pdte pâle untll until 24 24 hours after aCter itit has been cooked.' cooked.' (Plumerey's (Plumerey'srecipe, recipe,slightly slightlymodified.) modified.) prepare with pieces Salmon Salmon pilaf. pilaf. urm PILAF DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- Prepare with pieces of of salmon salmonsautded sa utécdininbutter butterininthe thesame sameway wayas aspilaf Pilafofofmutton mut/on

(see (seePILAF). PILAF).

Garnish Gamishwith withmushrooms mushroomsorortruffies trumessautded sautéedininbutter, butter,and and surround surround with with aa border border of of Tomato Tomafo sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), tomato€s lomatoescooked cookedtill til!soft softininbutter, butter,ororany anysauce saucefor forfish. fish.

796 796

withshelled shelled shrimpsororcrayfish. crayfish. _ It may also be garnished with InIn1his thiscase casethe the pilafisissurrounded surrounded with withaa borderofofWhite White \Vine winesauce (ser-,SAUCE) sauceor orButter Buttersauce sauce(see SAUCE)finished finishedoff offwÎth withaa prepared butter the shellfish butterof ofthe shellfish used. used. MON PRINCESSE pnrNcnssr- Cook Salmonàilala princesse. DARNE DARNEDE DESAU sAuMoN - Cook aachunk chunk of of salmonvery veryslowly slowly inin nsh fishfumel. Drainand and fumet.Drain garnish with garnish green asparagus withgreen asparagustips tipsininbutter. butter.Coat Coat with withaasauce sauce prepared wilh prepared withthecooking thecookingliquor liquorwilh (see withfish fishVelouté Velout|sauce sauce(see SAUCE) SAUCE) which whichhas hasbeen beenenriched enriched with with cream cream and andbutter butter and and strained. strained. Put Putslices slicesof oftruffles trufres heated heated inin butter butteron ontop topof ofthe the salmon. salmon.Makc Make aaborder border oflight of lightfish glazeround fishglaze round the the fish. fiih. Salmon quenelJes. quenelles.QUENELLES DESAUMON sAUMoN - - Salmon SalmonquenqueneuENELLEsDE -_Salmon elles ellesare are prepared either eitherwith with ordinary euenelle forcemiat or or M/J1Jtu>llnp '"rrm.,.,p.nl (see Mousselineforcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). They may may be be large large or or small. The The laller latter are are shaped shaped with with aa tablespoon tableipoon or or poached in poached in special special moulds. moulds. Small salmon quenelles are salmon quenelles are used used as asan an element element În in garnishes. _ Small Large Large salmon quenelles are salmon quenelles are scrved served as as aa small small entrie and and arc are themselves themselves accompanied accompanied by varioirs garnishes garnishes and by various and coated coated with a sauce to blend with the particular gamish. They may with a sauce to blend with the particular garnish. They may have have sorne some kînd kind of of salpicon salpicon added added ta to them. them. Salmon quenelles, various Salmon quenelles, various sauces sauces and and garnislres. QUENELLES euENELr Fs DE lon DE SAUMON SAUMoN -- Poach Poach the the quenelles. S Setethem place on aa dish dish or or place each bread ffried ried in each one one on on an an oval oval cro0ton of ofbread in bUller. butter. Garnish Garnish with prescribed garnish: with the prescribed garnish: mushrooms. mushrooms, shrimps, shrimps, crayfish or vegelables crayfish tails, tails, lobster, lobster, spiny spiny lobster lobster in in ila salpicon salpiconor vegetables in butter. Coat quenelles with Coat the quenelles with aa sauce sauce that that will will blend blend with with the garnish. prepare like Salmon rÎs.otto. risotto. RISOTTO Rrsorro DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN -- Prepare like Salmon Salmon pilaf,rcplacing pilaf, replacing the pilaf nce rice by by risotto. risotto. Reast Roast salmon. sdmon. SAUMON sAr;MoN ROT! norr -- Roasted Roasted whole whole or or in in large large cuts. Whole salmon are are most often stuffed. stuffed. Season Season and and cover cover with thin bards ofbacon of bacon fat, holding holding Ihese these in place with in place with aa few few pieces of pieces of string. Fix on on the the spi, spit with the the aid aid of of skewers. skewers. Cook the salmon undcr heat. Baste the Cook under aa hOI hot heat. Baste often often during during the per kg. kg. (15 cooking, allowing allowing 30 30 to 35 35 minutes per (15 ta to 18 lg minutes minutes per per Ib). Before taking laking the salmon salmon offthe off the spit, spit. remove remove the the bards bards and Before and il to 10 colour. Remove from from the the spit. spÎ!. Serve Serve with with the the allow it juices diluted cookîngjuices düuted with white white wine wine and and lemon lemon juice. juice. cooking Alternatively the salmon may may be be roasted roasted in in aa moderately moderately _ Alternatively hot oven. oven. hot Salmon in scallop shells. sheUs. coeurt.I,Es COQUILLES DE DE sAUMoNSAUMON - pipe Pipe aa thin thin Salmoninscallop border ofthickened of thickened potato potato purde purée round round the the edge edge ofscallop of scallop border shclls with with the the aid of of a forcing forcing bag. bag. put Put into into the the bottom bottom o] of shells eaeh shell'l shell 1 tablespoon tablespoon of of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), and and each the fish fish divided dividcd into into small small pieces, pieces, with with the skin skin and and bones bones the removed, on on top. top. carefully removed, and coat coat with with more more sauce. sauce. Sprinkle SprinkJe with wilh parParGarnish, and mesan and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Brush Brush the the potato potato border border mesan with egg. egg. with tin containing containing aa little !ittle wann warm Place the the scallops scallops in in aa baking baking tin Place warer and and brown brown in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Garnish Gamish with with fresh fresh water parsley. parsley. Instead of ofpotato potalo pur6e, purée. chopped chopped boiled boiled potatoes potatoes may may be be Ins-tead used for forthe theborder. border. used Salmon in in scallop scallop shells sheDs iIl la la florentine. florentine. coe(nt,t,Es COQUILLES DE DE Salmon SAUMON AÀ rl LA rronsNTrNE FLORENTINE - Put into the the bottom bottom of of scallop scallop SAUMoN - Put into shells22tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) tablespoons)spinach spinachleaves leavessimmered sîmmered shells butter, and pieces pieces of ofsalmon salmon on on top. top. Coat Coat with with Mornay Mornay inin butter, (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and cover cover with with grated grated parmesan. Parmesan. sauce (see sauce Sprinkle with with melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in the the oven oven or or under under Sprinkle thegrill. the Momay.coeurr.r.Es COQUILLESDE DESAUMON Salmon in scallop shells AàlalaMornay. sAUMoN LA rdoRNev MORNAY -- Arrange pieces pieces of ofsalmon salmon inin scallop scallop shells. shells. AÀ r.c, Coat with Momay sauce (sec SAUCE) and cover with grated Coat with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) and coverwith grated Pannesan.Sprinkle Sprinklewith withmelted meltedbutter. butter.Brown Brownininthe theoven ovenoror Parmesan. underthe thegrill. grill. under

SALMON SALMON

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Salmon Salmon in in scallop scallop shells shells à la la provengale. provençale. coQUtLLEs COQUILLES DE DE Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon, salmon, truffies, stoned stoned olives olives and and mushrooms mushroomsin inscallop scallop shells. shells. Cover Cover trufles, with Provengale Provençale sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with pale pale golden and aa little little olive olive oil. oil. Brown Brown in in the the oven oven golden breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and or orunder underthe the grill, grill, then then place place on on each each scallop scallop an an anchovy anchovy fillet fillet curved curved into into aa ring, ring, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Salmon Salmon in in scallop scaUopshells sbellswith withshrimps. shrimps. coQLnLLEs COQUILLES DB DE SAUMoN SAUMON AL;x AUX cREvETTEs CREVETTES - Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon salmon and and shelled shelled shrimps shrimps in in scallop scallop shells. shells. Coat Coat with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) finished finished off off with with Shrimp Shrimp butter buller (see (see BUTTER)' BUTTER). SAUCE) Sprinkle with with Parmesan Parmesan and and aa little little melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in Sprinkle the the oven oven or or under under the the grill. grill. Salmon Salmon in in scallop scallop shells sbells ià la la Victoria. Victoria. coQUILLES COQUILLES DE DE SAUMoN SAUMON À LA vtcronrl VICTORIA - Arrange Arrange pieces pieces of of salmon, salmon, truffies truffles and and A mushrooms mushrooms in in scallop scallop shells. shells. Coat Coat with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Parmesan Parmesan and and melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown SAUCE). trufle heated in the oven, inthe oven, and place place aa slice slice of oftruffle heated in in butter butter on on each each scallop. scallop. Skewered salmon salmon. BRocHETTEs BROCHETTES DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON -- Thread Thread pieces pieces Skewered of salmon cut in squares squares on metal skewers, skewers, alternating alternating them them of with with mushrooms cut in in thick truck slices slices and tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Se as on with salt and pepper, pepper, pour pour over melted butter, coat coat Season with freshly freshly made made breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and grill grill gently' gently. Set Set on on a serving dish. dish. Sprinkle with with half-melted half-melted Mdite Mâitre separately. hotel butter d d'hotel buller (see (see BUTTER) BUTTER) or serve this butter separately. Garnish with fresh parsley and surround Garnish surround with with half half slices s!ices of of lemon cut with fluted edges. lemon cut sauces recommended One of the the sauces recommended for for grilled grilled fish fish may may be be salmon. separately with grilled served separately grilled skewered salmon. FRJTES DE SAUMON SAUMoN FRITES Fried skewered salmon. Fried salmon. BRocIIETTES BROCHETTES DE threading Sauti the pieces of salmon lightly in butter before threading Sauté and in egg and on the skewers. Coat the skewered pieces them on pieces in breadcrumbs. quarters parsley and quarters garnish with fried parsley Fry in deep deep fat and garnish sauce other sauce or any any other sauce, or with Tomato Tomato sauce, lemon. Serve Serve with of lemon. of SAUCE). fish (see SA appropriate UCE). appropriate to fish salmon sAUMoN -- Rub cooked salmon sourrlE DE SAUMON Salmon soufllé. sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Salmon (see SAUCE), bind SAUCE), bind Bbcharnel sauce (see mixwith sieve, mix through a sieve, with Béchamel in at at the the yolks and egg whites folded in stifly beaten egg and stiffiy egg yolks with egg (See SOUFFLÉ.) SOUFFLE.) moment. (See last moment. last DE SAUMON sAUMoN ÀA DARNE DE I'am6ricaine. DARNE steak à l'américaine. Salmon steak Salmon (2! to inches) to 33 inches) cm. (2t to 88 cm. slice about about 66 to Cut aa slice L'rMERrclrNs -- Cut L'AMÉRICAINE salt and and with salt Season with salmon. Season the salmon. the middle middle of the from the thick from thick pan on of 22 layer of on aa layer sautd pan pepper. Cook in aa buttered buttered sauté Cook in pepper. (q.v.) of raw root root of raw (3 tablespoons) matignon (q.v.) tablespoons) matignon tablespoons (3 tablespoons butter. melted butter. tablespoons (1 with 44 tablespoons vegetables. Sprinkle Sprinkle with vegetables. cup) melted @cup) pan and continue and continue good heat. the pan Cover the heat. Cover cooking over over aa good Begin cooking Begin but with the the butter, butter, but frequently with in the basting frequently the oven, oven, basting cooking in cooking liquid. adding any any liquid. without adding without (see l'arnbricaine (see Lobster àd l'américaine as for for Lobster lobster as Prepare aa spiny spiny lobster Prepare the slice the and slice the tail tail and shell from from the the shell Remove the LOBSTER). Remove LOBSTER). slices. into 66 equal equal slices. latter into latter the f1esh flesh out ail all the take out and take in half, half,longways, the body Split the body in Split longways, and to itit an an flesh, add add to Dice trus this flesh, shells. Dice half shells. the half breaking the without breaking without with 1I bind with and bind diced mushrooms mushrooms and quantity of cooked, diced of cooked, equal quantity equal sauce Allemande sauce (6 tablespoons, coocentrated Allemande cup) concentrated scant 1 tablespoons, scant dl. (6 dl. { cup) have chervil have and chervil (see SAUCE) tarragon and chopped tarragon to which which chopped SAUCE) to (see been added. added. been the over the Smooth over mixture. Smooth with the the mixture. shells with Fill the the half half shells Fill gratedParmesan little Parmesan and and aa!ittle with grated themwith sprinkle them surfaces and and sprinkJe surfaces and brown brown tinand on aa baking baking tin half shells shells on Put the the half melted butter. butter. Put melted serving. before serving. minutes before very hot hot oven oven'lO in aavery them in them 10 minutes was the salmon salmon was which the with which the matignon matignon with Add the sauce. Add Thesauce. The dl.(1(+ Add 33dl. lobster. Add from the thelobster. saucefrom to the the American American sauce cooked to cooked scant1*cup) tablespoons, scant and1I dl. dl. (6(6tablespoons, pint, I! l| cups) cup s)fishfumet fishfumet and pint, "rrp) over (seeSAUCE). by one-third one-third over Boil down down by SAUCE). Boil sauce(see Velouti sauce Velouté spoon. woodenspoon. goodheat, withaawooden heat,stirring stirring with good

À r,e LA pnovrrrlgAlE PROVENÇALE SAUMON A sAUMoN

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Thicken Trucken the the sauce sauce away away from from the the heat heat with with the the coral coral rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve sieve and and blended blended with with 100 100g.g. (4 (4oz.,* oz., 1cup) cup) fresh fresh butter. butter. Add Add chopped chopped parsley, parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon, tarragon, the the juice of lemon, lemon, salt salt and and pepper pepper ififnecessary, necessary, and and mix mix well weil juice of with with aa whisk. whisk. Place Place the the salmon, salmon, very very hot, hot, on on aa cro0ton croûton of ofbread bread fried fried in in shells of butter, butter, on on aa large large dish. dish. Put Put at at each each end end the thehalf halfshells ofspiny spiny lobster lobster and and the the slices slices of of spiny spiny lobster lobster set set into into tartlets tartlets of of fine fine pastry, pastry, lightly lightly coated coated with with American American sauce sauce at at the the sides. sides. Coat Coat the the salmon salmon with with the the rest rest of ofthe the sauce sauce and and serve' serve. A t'nxGLAIsESalmon Salmonsteak steak ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAutvtoN SAUMON À L'ANGLAISESlice Slice ofsalmon of salmon coatedin coated in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and cooked cooked in in hitel butter butter. butter. Served Served with with Maitre Maître dd'hôtel buller (see (see BUTTER). BUTTER). the Cut FRITE Fried Fried salmon salmon steaks. steaks. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON FRITE - Cut the salmon salmon in'thin in· trun slices, slices, soak soak them them in in cold cold boiled boiled mi[6, milk, flsu1 flour lightly, lightly, and and fry fry in in smoking smoking hot hot oil. oil. quarters parsley and garnish fried with slices and Drain Drain the the slices and garnish with fried parsley and quarters of lemon. oflemon. Season Grilled Grilled salmon salmon steak. steak. DARNE DARNE DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON cnrlrfr GRILLÉE -- Season the the salmon salmon steak steak with with salt saIt and and pepper. pepper. Brush Brush with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Cook Cook under under the the grill grill at at moderate moderate heat. heat. (see any Serve Serve with with Maitre Maître dhiltel d'hôtel butter buller (see BUTTER), BUTTER), or or any sauce sauce recornmended recommended for for grilled grilled fish. fish.

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steaks Grilled salmon salmon steaks Grillw

A LA LA DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN A meuniire. DARNE la meunière. steak àdr la Salmon steak Salmon sprinkle Season, sprinkle into slices. slices. Season, the salmon salmon into Cut the MEuNSRE - Cut MEUNIÈRE hot butter. butter. fry in in smoking smoking hot flour, and and fry with flour, lightly with !ightly parsley, with chopped chopped parsley, sprinkle with dish, sprinkJe slices on on aa dish, the slices Arrange the Arrange juice. ready to serve, When lemon a little over and squeeze and squeeze over a !ittle lem on juice. When ready to serve, with half half Surround with very hot. hot. Surround pour over butter, very the cooking cooking butter, over the pour of lem lemon. slices of slices on. DE sAUMoN A t l NeNrul DARNE DE Nantua. DARNE la Nantua. steak ài la Salmon steak Salmon SAUMON À LA NANTUA it on Drain, set set it on aa in fish frshfumef. salmon in of salmon Cook aa chunk chunk of -- Cook fumet. Drain, tails. crayfish tails. with shelled shelled crayfish surround with dish, and and surround serving dish, serving (see SAUCE) which the the to which SAUCE) to sauce (see with Nantua Nantua sauce Coat with Coat been added. added. fish have have been ofthe cookingjuices of concentrated cookingjuices concentrated the fish gandshes. various garnishes. wine, various poached in white wine, in white steak poacbed Salmon steak Salmon pocnfp AU vIN BLANc - Poach the salmon DARNE DE DE SAUMON sAUMoN POCHÉE DARNE AU VIN BLANC - Poach the salmon white wine. wine. with white made with in fishfumet fishfumet made rather thick, thick, in cut rather steaks, cut steaks, the with the Surround with dish. Surround serving dish. on aa serving stit them them on Drain and and set Drain (see SAUCE) wine sauce (see garnish. Coat with White White winesauce prescribed garnish. Coat with prescribed SAUCE) has been been the fish fish has liquor of of the cooking liquor which the the concentrated concentrated cooking to which to added. added. DE SAUMON SAUMoN TRoNgoN DE GilberL TRONçoN Phit6as Gilbert. salmon Philéas Trongon of of salmon Tronçon prnrfls cILBERT - Remove of chunk of of aa large large chunk the bone bone of Remove the PHILÉAS GILBERT and half half aa carrots and Cook 33carrots lb.)' Cook zike.(5+ weighing 2t salmon, weigrung salmon, kg. (5i lb.). julienne (q.v.), (q.v.), in Add 33 in butter. butter. Add short julienne in aa short heart, cut cut in celery heart, celery quant_tty of (scant!* cup) equal quantity and an an equal truffies and cup) truffies tablespoons (scant tablespoons of (* pint, t cup) dl. (! Pour in in It l+ dl. iniulienne. cut in alsocut mushiooms, also mushrooms, julienne. Pour pint, t cup) thick very thick few tablespoons tablespoons very withaafew Bind with down. Bind and boil boil down. sherry and sherry (see SAUCE) and season. sauce(see Btchamelsauce Béchamel SA UCE) and season. thin with aa thin end with each end Cover each mixture. Cover with this this mixture. fish with Stuffthe Stuff the fish cannot thestuffing stuffingcannot sothat that the tiesecurely securely so fat, and and tie of bacon bacon fat, bard of bard

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SALMON SALMON escape. Put Putthe thesalmon salmonininaafish fishkettle kettleon onaalayer layerof ofchopped chopped escape. carrotand andonion cooked ininbutter, onioncooked butter, mushroom mushroomand trufre andtruffle carrot skins,and garni. andaabouquet bouquet garni. skins, Season the thesalmon. salmon. Pour Pour over oversorne somemelted meltedbutter, butter, and andfill Season fill panwith thepan withsherry sherryto tohalf-way half-way up upthe thefish. fish.Start Startcooking cookingover the over heat,then thencook cookininthe theoyen for40 ovenfor 40to to45 45minutes, minutes, with withthe thefish fish heat, kettlecovered. covered. kettle When the thesalmon salmonisiscooked, cooked,skin skinthe the middle part,leaving middle part, leaving When only aathin thinstrip strip of ofskin skin atat eieither end. Keep Keepthe thesalmon salmon warrn wann only ther end. theoyen, oven, covering covering itit with with buttered paper,while buttered paper, preparing whilepreparing ininthe the sauce. sauce. the Strain the thecooking cooking liquor liquor through through aafine fine strainer strainer and and boil Strain boil (scant if,pint, down; add add44dl. dl. (seant pint, 1lf, cups)thin thin Espagnole Espagnole sauce down; i cups) sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), weil well skimmed. skimmed. Reduced Reduced again, again, adding (see adding gradually 44 dl. (scant iI pint, dl. (seant pint, Ii lf, cups) cups) thick, thick, fresh fresh cream. cream-. gradually When the the sauce sauce isis ready, (4 oz., ready, add g. (4 add 100 100 g; cup) butter oz., 1-* cup) butter and When and strain through through muslin. muslin. strain Garnish with with 12 12 barquettes barquettes filled filled with with aaragoirt crayfish of crayfish Garnish ragoût of tails àd la (see CRA la Nantua Nantua (see CRAYFISH); 24 oysters oyiters fried fied àd lata tails YFISH); 24 Villeroi;24 big mushrooms, mushrooms, cooked cooked in in aa white white court-bouillon; co urt-bouillon: Villeroi; 24 big 12 trufHes, trufles, cooked cooked in (the parings in sherry sherry (the parings of of these these and and the 12 the mushrooms are are used used to to colour colour the the stock), stock), and and 44 fillets fillets of of sole sole mushrooms encrusted with with half half slices slices of of truffies, truffies, lightly poached in lightly poached in fish encrusted fish When cooked, cooked, these these fillets fillets are placed over are p1aced over the fimet. When skinned the skinned fumet. portion of of the salmon. thp salmon. portion pour Arrange the the salmon salmon with garnishes on with the the garnishes on aa long dish. Pour long dish. Arrange over itit sorne some spoonfuls spoonfuls of of the the sauce, sauce, and and serve serve the over the rest rest separately. separately.

with wrthMontpellier (seeBUTTER, Montpellierbutter butter(see BUTTER,Compound Compound butters), butters), and me way. andsalmon salmonsteaks steaks or orchunks chunksmay maybe beserved servedininthe thesasame way. Cold Coldboiled boiledsalmon, salmonq with with various various sauces sauces and andgarnisbes. garnishes. SAUMON SAUMoN BOUILLI BourLLr FROID FRorD- - Cook Cookinincourt-bouillon court-bouillon (whole, (whole, inin large largecuts cutsor orslices); slices);cool coolininthe thecooking cooking liquor. liquor. Drain Drain the thefish, dryit,it,and garnishwith fish,dry andgarnish parsley, hardwithfresh fresh parsley, hardboiled boiled eggs eggs or orlettuce lettucehearts. hearts.Serve Servewith with one one or orother other of ofthe the sauces sauces recommended recommended for for cold coldfish. fish. In England it is usual to serve co Id salmon with cucumber In England it is usual to serve cold salmon with cucumber seasoned UCE) or seasoned with with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette sauce (see SA sauce(see SAUCE) plain, eut or plain, cutinin thin thinslices. slices. Cutlets Cutlets of of salmon sdmoninin aspic. aspic CÔTELETTES cOrrrsrrEsDE on SAUMON sluuoN ÀA LA rl GELÉE csrfs -- Coat Coat half half slices slices of ofsalmon salmon that that have have been been cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon, court-bouillon, cooled cooled and jelly, or and drained, drained, with with fish fish aspic aspic jelly, or jelly (see braise braise in in aa fish fish aspic (see JELLY, aspic jelly JELLy, Fishjelly Fish jellystock) stock) made made with with wine. wine. These These cutlets, cutlets, when when cool, cool, are are decorated decorated with with truffies truffies and and jelly. Arrange g)azed with glazed with jelly. Arrange in in the the forrn form of of aa crown crown on on aa dish dish and garnish with and garnish with choppedjelly. chopped jelly. Salmon Salmon cutlets cutlets may may also also be put into be put into barquettes barquetres made made of of Fine te (see (see DOUGH) Fjne Iining paste lintng pas DOUGH) cooked cooked empty, empty, on on aa layer layer of of jelly. chopped chopped jelly. Or Or they they may may be be set set on on aa croûton cro0ton of of bread bread eut cut into into the the same same shape shape as as the the cutlet cutlet and and covered covered with with one one of of the the compound compound butters (see BUTTER). butters (see BUTTER). Cutlets Cutlets of of salmon salmon ài la la moscovite. moscovite. CÔTELETTES cdrsrsrrrs DE op SAUMON sl,uuoN ÀA LA LA MOSCOVITE Moscovrre -- Braise Braise the the cutlets cutlets in in an an aspic (see aspic jelly stock stock (see jelly stock) JELL Y, Fish jelly JELLY, stock) made made with with dry dry champagne. champagne. Coat Coat them, sauce (see they are are cold, cold, with with white white Chaud-froid (see Chaud-froidiauce !hem, once they SA UCE) with the SAUCE) the addition addition of of blanched blanched and and drained drained chopped chopped chives. Set Set them in barquettes barqaettes of Fine Fine Iining (see DOUGH), paste (see lining paste DOUGH), garnished with'l good tablespoon of garnished of fresh fresh caviare. caviare. Arrange Arrange the barquettes barquettes on aa dish and garnish garnish with fresh parsley. Serve fresh parsley. Serve with Tartare sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Cutlets DE SAUMON Cutlets of of salmon àI la Nantua. CÔTELETTES c0rrr.Brrns os slutroN ÀA LA r,e NANTUA N,c,l.rrul -- Cook Cook the cutlets cutlets in an an aspicjelly (see JELLy, aspic jelly stock stock (seeJELLY, jelly stock) Fishjelly made with white wine. Allow them them to to cool. Fish stock) made wine. Allow cool. Coat with Chaud-froid that has has been been Chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) that Compound finished off with Crayfish butter (see BUTTER, Compound Decorate them them with with broad broad thin thin slices slices of of iruffie truftle butters). Decorate with crayfish or shrimp shrimp tails. Glaze Glaze the the cutlets cutlets with with topped with jelly. Set in aa bowl bowl on aa layer layer of ofwell-setjelly. Garnish the the middle middle Set well-set jelly. Garnish Crayfish mowse mousse (see (see CRAYFISH) CRA YFISH) formed forrned into into aa dome. dome. with Crayfsh Decorate with with crayfish crayfish tails and slices slices of of trufre truffle arranged arranged in in Decorate alternate layers. layers. Glazewith Glaze withjelly and set set on on ice. ice. jelly and alternate Cutlets of of salmon ià I'orientale. l'orientale. c0rsmrtEs CÔTELETTES os DE sauMoN SAUMON A À Cutlets L'ORlENTALE -- Proceed, Proceed, with with half-slices half-slices of of salmon. salmon, as as for for Red Red L'oRIENTALE mullet h à I'orientale l'orientale (see (see HORS-D'(EUVRE. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold horsmullet horseuvre\. dd'œuvre).

COLD SALMON. SALMON. SAUMON sAuMoN FROIDFRorDCOLD Cold whole whole salmon salmon or or cuts of salmon salmon with various vrrioussauces Cold sauces and garnishes SAUMON poach the sAUMoN ENTIER, ENTTER, EN EN TRONÇONS (rnoro) -- Poach TRoNgoNs (FROID) garnishes. the salmon, whole whole or or in in large cuts, cuts, in in court-bouillon. Leave Leave to salmon, cool in in the the cooking cooking liquor. liquor. cool Drain the the fish fish and wipe it and wipe it dry. Set on a large dish. Garnish Garnish Drain with fresh parsley or fresh parsley quartered hard-boiled with quartered or with eggs and with hard-boiled eggs lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Accompanying Accompanying sauces. sauces. Cold salmon is usually served with cold cold sauces sauces made made with with an an oil and egg yolk base, such as: Andalouse, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, Andalouse, Chantilly, Chantilly, Gribiche, Mayonnaise, Ravigote, Ravigote, Rimoulade, Russian, Tartare, Vincent, Vinaigrette, etc. (see Rémoulade, Russian, Tartare, Vincent, (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Co Id sauces'). sauces). Garnishes Garnishes for for cold cold salmon. These are varied. Apart from lettuce lettuce hearts hearts and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, they consist chiefly of vegetable vegetable salads salads mixed mixed with with mayonnaise mayonnaise (withthe (with the addition addition of gelatine) gelatine) or or vinaigrette vinaigrette sauce. sauce. When When cold cold salmon salmon is is served served d à l'anglaise /' anglaise it it should be be accompanied accompanied by by cucumber cucumber salad. salado The The garnishes garnishes most most often often used used with with cold cold salmon salmon are: are: Small Small aspics aspics of of crayfish crayfish tails tails or or shrimps, shrimps, of of lobster lobster or or crayfish, crayfish, various various salpicons salpicons ot or mactdoines macédoines ofvegetables, of vegetables, etc. etc. Tartlets Tartlets or or barquettes barquettes made made of of fine fine pastry, pastry, filled filled with with caviar, caviar, mac4doine macédoine of of vegetables, vegetables, etc., etc., various various mousses mousses or or puries, purées, various various salpicons, salpicons, etc. Barquettes Barquettes or or cassolettes cassolettes made made of of beetroot beetroot or or cucumber. cucumber, filled filled as as above. above. Scallop Scallop shells shellswith with any any of ofthe thefillings fillings described described above. above. Artichoke Artichoke bottoms bottoms (cooked (cooked in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water courtcourtbouillon) bouillon) garnished garnished with with the the same same preparations preparations used used to to fill fill barquettes, barquettes, etc. etc. Stuffed Stuffed hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, using using mousses mousses and and pur6es purées of of various various kinds kindsfor forfilling. filling. Small Small tomatoes, tomatoes, scooped scooped out, out, marinated marinated and and filled filled with with salad, salad, or orsome sornekind kind ofofmousse mousseor orpurde. purée. The The garnishes garnishes enumerated enumerated above above apply apply chiefly chiefly to to salmon salmon poached poachedininaacourt-bouillon.Instructions court-bouillon. Instructionswill willbe befound foundbelow below for forcold coldsalmon salmoncooked cookedininaawhite whitewine winefish fish stock. stock. S4lmon S<;ilmon poached poached in in court-bouillon court-bouillon may may also also be be prepared prepared

Coldsalnon salmondàI'anglaise l'anglaise Cold

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SALMON SALMON Arrange Arrange'them them in in aa buttered buttered dish; dish; season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Pour Pour over over fishfumetmade fishfumet made with with white white wine wine and and add add aa squeeze of lemon lemon juice. juice. Poach Poach gently, gently, keeping keeping the the dish dish squeeze of covered. covered. Cool Cool under under pressure. pressure. Drain Drain and and dry dry the the cutlets, cutlets, and and decorate decorate them them with with truffies truffies or or tarragon tarragon leaves. leaves. Glaze Glaze them them

i

Cutletsof ofsalmon salmon àla la parisienne. parisienne. cdrsLBTTEs CÔTELEITFS or DE seuuoN SAUMON AÀ Cutlets LApARTsIENNn PARISIENNE-- Line Linescallop scallopshells shellswith withvegetable vegetable salad salad mixed mixed LA

mayonnaise. Arrange Arrange slices slices of ofsalmon salmon on on top. top. Coat Coat with with withmayonnaise. with gelatine-strengthened gelatine-strengthened mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Arrange round round the the edge edge of of each each scallop scallop aa little !ittle border border of of Arrange asparagus tips, tips, pieces pieces ofcarrot of carrot scooped scooped out out with with aa vegetable vegetable asparagus baller, and and diced diced French French beans, beans, all all previously previously cooked cooked in in baller, salted water water and and well weil drained. drained. Set Set aa slice slice of of truffie truffie on on top top of of salted each shell. shell. each Cutlets of of salmon salmon ià la la russe. russe. cdrernrrEs CÔTELEITFS op DE sluuoN SAUMON A À rl LA Cuflets RUSSE -- Line Line scallop scallop shells shells with with shredded shredded lettuce lettuce seasoned seasoned RUssE with oil oil and and vinegar. vinegar. Set Set slices slices of of salmon salmon on on top. top. Coat Coat with with with ayonnaise sauce gelatine-strengthened M Mayonnaise sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). gelatine-strengthened Decorate with with very very small sm ail lettuce lettuce hearts, hearts, quartered quartered hardhardDecorate boiled eggs, eggs, olives, olives, capers capers and and anchovy anchovy fillets. fillets. boiled Galantine of of sahnon. salmon. cALANTINE GALANTINE DE DE sAUMoN SAUMON - This dish, dish, Galantine known in old cookery under under the the name na me of of sous-presse sous-presse de known saumon, is prepared prepared in in the the same same way way as Galantine Galantine or or Ballottine Ballottine saumon,is and Pike of eel (see (see EEL), with truffies, truffies, fillets of salmon salmon and Pike of forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEA TS). ceme at (see for It isis cooked, cooked, rolled rolled up up in in a linen lin en cloth, cloth, in a strengthened strengthened fish It stock ot orfumet. Wh en cooked, cooked, it is untied and rolled roUed up again finnel. When linen cloth, secured with twine, twine, and cooled under light in a linen pressure. pressure. same sorne other garnish of the same Decorate with truffies or some jelly (see withjelly (see JELLY, JELL Y, Fishjelly Fishielly stock). Serve kind and glaze with jelly, the edges of of dish and surround chopped jelly, surround with chopped on aa long dish jelly croûtons. dish being being decorated withjelly crottons. It is served with decorated with the dish mayonnaise or sorne some other cold sauce. mayonnaise BELLEvUE, cLncE BELLEVUE, Glazed sAUMoN GLACÉ Glaz,ed salmon Bellevue in aspic. SAUMON in an cuts, in large cuts, in large whole or or in EN ASPIC EN Asplc -- Cook the salmon, whole its cooking cooking (see JELL in its Cool in enriched Y). Cool JELLY). rtocft (see Fish jelly stock enriched Fish liquor. flesh, and and wipe Drain Drain the fish, fish, skin without breaking the ftesh, (prepared with the liquor with aa clotho half-set jelly (prepared cloth. Coat with half-setjelly way). in the the usual usual way). in clarified in was cooked, clarified the fish fish was in which which the uniform with aa unifonn Apply severallayers jelly until covered with until itit is covered ofjelly several layers of coating. set firmly set of finnly layer of Put the salmon covered with aa layer dish covered on aa dish salmon on place in aa cold cold place Keep in jelly. Decorate shapes. Keep cut-out jelly shapes. Decorate with cut-outjelly until ready serve. ready to serve.

withjelly. withjelly.

Arrange Arrange in in the the form fonn of ofaa circle circle on on aa dish dish or or on on aa shaped shaped base base of of rice. rice. Garnish Gamish the the middle rniddle of of the the dish dish with with aa vegetable vegetable salad sai ad mixed mixed with with very very thick thick mayonnaise mayonnaise and and shaped shaped into into aa dome. dome. Decorate Decorate the the top top with with truffies, truffies, lobster lobster coral, coral, anchovy anchovy fillets, fiUets, jelly etc. etc. Surround Surround the the cutlets cutlets with with jelly crofitons. croûtons. Serve Serve with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Glazrd Glazed salmon salmon drà I'inperiale. l'impériale. sAUMoN SAUMON Gr"lcf GLACÉ A À r'nrlpEruu,r L'IMPÉRIALE Skin for Glazed Cook Cook the the salmon salmon as as for G/azed salmon salmon Bellevue Bellevue in in aspic. aspic. Skin egg and hard-boiled the the fish fish and and decorate decorate it it with with truffies truffies and hard-boiled egg jelly' Coat with whites cut in in the the form fonn of of scales. scales. Coat with the thejelly. whites cut of rice. Set Set on on a a long long dish dish or or on on a a bed bed of rice. Surround Surround with with aa fine of fine barquettes of of crayfish, garnish gamish of of little little mousselines mousselines of crayfish, barquettes and in white pastry carp roes pastry filled filled with with soft soft carp roes poached poached in white wine wine and (see SAUCE) on SAUCE) based sauce (see chaud-froid sauce White chaud-froid with White coated with based on eggs. fishfumet fishfumet and halved halved hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. purde. with trufle Serve with with mayonnaise mayonnaise mixed mixed with trufHe purée. Serve Cook uoNsnrpr -- Cook cI.Acf MONSELET s.lunaoN GLACÉ Monselet. SAUMON salmon Monselet. Glazed salmon in Bellevue in salman Bellevue for Glazed way as as for Glazed salmon same way in the the same salmon in the salmon and lobster lobster truffies and it with with truffies decorate it and decorate fish and Skin the the fish cspic. Skin aspic. with jelly. coral. Glaze withjelly. coral. garnish of of with aa garnish Surround with rice. Surround bed of of rice. or on on aa bed Set on aa dish or green of green salad of with aa salad filled with bottoms filled artichoke bottoms very small small artichoke very (see norsses (see small Tomato Tomato mousses trufres, and and small and truffies, tips and asparagus tips with Serve with leaves. Serve tarragon leaves. with tarragon decorated with TOMATO) decorated TOMATO) juice. tomato juice. with tomato mixed with mayonnaise mixed mayonnaise

(Izrozsse) parisienne(Larousse) Glazed salmon salmon àAlala parisienne Glazed

r.l cr,acf ÀA LA parisienne. SAUMON sAUMoN GLACÉ ta parisienne. salmon ài la Glazed salmon Glazed sahnon Glazed salmon salmonasasfor the salmon and cool cool the Cook and for Glazed - Cook

pARISIENNE PARISIENNE

in aspic. aspic. Bellevue in Bellevue jelly. glaze with with jelly. and glaze trufres and with truffies Decorate itit with Decorate (see fish (see coldfish parisienne for for cold garnish àd lala parisienne with aagarnish Surround with Surround other from each eachother separated from in clusters, clusters, separated arranged in GARNISH) arranged GARNISH) with Decoratewith eggs. Decorate hard-boiled eggs. halved hard-boiled and halved hearts and lettuce hearts by lettuce by jelly. Serve mayonnaise. with mayonnaise. Serve with chopped jelly. chopped Cook nussn - - Cook I"A'RUSSE cl,,lc6ÀALA sAUMoNGLACÉ russe. SAUMON salmonài lalarusse. Glazed salmon Glazed to allowititta parisienne and andallow salmonàdlalaparisienne for Glazed Glazed salmon asfor the salmon salmon as the leaves tarragon leaves andtarragon with truffies truffiesand it, decorate decorate with skin it, Drain,skin cool. Drain, cool. (seeJELL JELLY). glazewith stock (see Fishiellystock with Fishjelly and Y). and gJaze with sm small rice.Surround Surround with of rice. bedof on aabed dish on onaalong longdish Seton Set aU jelly'small small with jelly, lined with darioleslined mouldedinindarioles salads moulded Russian salads Russian blanched, hasbeen beenblanched, which has cucumberwhich outof ofcucumber madeout barquettes made barquettes juice,salt pepper, saltand andpepper, oil,lemon withoil, marinated with andmarinated drained lemonjuice, drainedand eggs. quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. andquartered caviareand with caviare filledwith and and fiUed with choppedjelly. chopped jelly. plate with theplate ofthe theedges edgesof Garnish the Garnish Putinin MAYoNNATsE ENMA FRoID EN sAUMoNFROID mayonnaise.SAUMON Salmon YONNAlSE - -Put Salmonmayonnaise. lettuce shredded lettuce layerofofshredded dishaalayer saladdish ofaasalad the the bottom bottom of piledup upaa vinegar, piled pepper,oil andvinegar, oiland saltand andpepper, withsalt seasoned seasonedwith ofsliced slicedoror moundof thisa amound Placeon onthis dome.Place formof ofaadome. thefonn little littleininthe salmon. ftaked flakedcooked cookedsalmon. obtaina a oversosoasastotoobtain Smoothover mayonnaise.Smooth withmayonnaise. Coyer Coverwith cherviloror capers,chervil withanchovies, anchovies,capers, Decoratewith regular shape. Decorate regular shape.

(Izror,ss4 Glazed au chambertin chambertin (Larousse) Glazed salmon salmon au

Glazed AU GLAcf AU sAUMoN GLACÉ chambertin. SAUMON au chambertin. salnon au Glazed salmon CHAMBERTIN in aspic, aspic, Bellevue in for Glazed salmon Bellevue as for Glazed salmon Proceed as cHAMBERTIN -- Proceed using Y) prepared (see JELL prepared with Chamberwith ChamberJELLY) Fish jelly stock rtock (see using aaFishjelly

tin. tin. Glazed DE cOTELETTES DE au Chambertin. Chambertin CÔTELETTFS cutlets au salmon cutlets Glazrd salmon SAUMON cutlets the salmon salmon cutlets Braise the AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTnq -- Braise cLAcEEs AU sAUMoN GLACÉES in liquor. in the thecooking cooking liquor. coolin them cool Let them in Chambertin. Chambertin. Let Finish as for aspic. ofsalmon salmon ininaspic. for Cutlets Finish off offas Cutlets of The way with with prepared inin the the same same way may be be prepared cutlets may The cutlets champagne, wine, etc. etc. Rhine wine, Alsace or or Rhine Bordeaux, Alsace champagne, Bordeaux, Glazed crlcf ÀALAra sluuoN GLACÉ champenoise. SAUMON salmon ài lala champenoise. Glazed salmon CHAMPENOISE using aa aspic, using Bellevue ininaspic, salmon Bellevue LikeGlazed Glazedsalmon cHAMpENoIse - - Like Fishjelly Y) made champagne. (seeJELL withdry drychampagne. made with JELLY) stock (see Fish jelly stock Glaud ofvegetables. vegetables. mac6doine of with macédoine salmon with ofsalmon cutletsof Glazed cutlets

u

CÔTELETTFS DELÉGUMES rfcutr,lEs u.lcfoolNEDE cr.c,cfEsÀALA MACÉDOINE DESAUMON sAUMoNGLACÉES cOTELETTEs DE

- Cut (i inch) thick divideeach each anddivide thickand cm.(*inch) inslices slices 22cm. salmon in thesalmon - Cut the (U.S. one cutlets(U.S. form of ofcutlets theform halves ininthe these halves Shapethese one inin half. half.Shape chops.) chops.)

799 799

SALMON TROUT TROUT SALMON tarragon leaves, and stoned olives. Surround with quartered tarragon leaves, and stoned olives. Surround with quartered hard-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts. hard-boiled eggs and lettuce hearts. All the garnishes suggested elsewhere for cold fish may be AH the garnishes suggested elsewhere for cold fish may be garnish for salmon mayonnaise. used used asasgarnish for salmon mayonnaise. M6drillons of cold salmon. MfDATLLoNs DE sAUMoN FRorD of cold salmon. MÉDA1LLONS DE SAUMON FROIDMédaiUons Cut the salmon in slices, divide divideeach eachinintwo twoand andtrim triminto into Cut the salmon in slices, rounds or mtdaillons. médaillons. rounds or Cook and andfinish finish off offaccording according to toany anyof ofthe therecipes recipesgiven given Cook forsalmon salmon cutlets. for cutlets. Cold salmon selmonwith with Montpellier butter. butter.SAUMON sAUMoNFROID FRorDAU AU Cold BEURRE DE MoNTnELLTER thesalmon, salmon, whole wholeor orininlarge large BEURRE DE MONTPELLIER - Cookthe jelly cuts, in a Fish (see JELLY) made with white wine, s/ock (see cuts, in a Fish jelly stock JELLY) made with white wine, as for Glazed salmon Bellevue in aspic. Allow to cool in its as for G/azed sa/mon Bellevue in aspic. Allow to cool in its cooking liquor. cooking liquor. Drain the the fish; fish; remove remove the theskin skin from from the the central part, central part, Drain keeping only only aa narrow narrow strip strip at ateach each side. side.Wipe Wipe dry. dry. keeping Cover the the skinned part with skinned part with Montpellier Montpellier butter (see butter (see Cover BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), butters), and and smooth smooth over. over. Decorate Decorateitit BUTTER, with small small pieces of truffies dipped in in half-set jelly. Glaze Glaze with with with half-set jelly made with the liquor in which the fish fish was was half-set cooked. cooked. Set the the fish fish on dish on on aa dish on aa bed bed of ofrice, or aa buttered buttered croûton cro0ton rice, or Set of bread. Surround Surround with with aa garnish of hard-boiled eggs,lettuce of hard-boiled ofbread. 1ettuce hearts, croûtons cro0tons spread spread with Montpellier Montpellier butter, butter. and jelly. hearts, Cold salmon salmon steak steak with with various various sauces sauces and and garnishes. Cold DARNES DE SAUMoN FRorDEs - All the recipes given for cold DARNES DE SAUMON FROIDES - AlI the recipes given for cold cutlets of of salmon salmon can can be be applied applied to to salmon salmon steaks. steaks. cutlets The steaks, steaks, cooked cooked in in court-bouillon court-bouillon and andleft to cool in the cool in the The left to garnished with liquor, are are gamished with quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs and and liquor, lettuce hearts, hearts, and and served served with aa cold (Mayo,nnaise, cold sauce sauce (Mayonnaise, lettuce Rhmoulade, Tartare, Tartare, Verte, Verte, etc.; etc.; see see SAUCE, SAUCE, Cold Cold sauces). sauces). Rémoulade,

SALMON TROUT. TROUT. TRU1TE rRUrrE SAUMONÉE slurraoNEr SALMON (see TROUT). flesh (see flesh TROUT).

vERTES- -Dice green asparagusand Dicegreen andcook cookininsalted saltedwater. water. VERTES Drain,dry, dry,and andbind bind with thickmayonnaise. mayonnaise. Drain, Sameuses usesasasthe theSalpicon Salpiconofofartichokes. artichokes. Same Salpicon of auberginesinincream. cream.SALPICON sAr,prcoND'AUBERGINES o'^l,unrRclNss.A Salpicon À u CRÈME cniun- -Cook Cook diced aubergines ininbutter. butter.Season, Season,bind LA bind with Cream sauce (see SAUCE). Sameuses usesasas theSalpicon Salpicon of artichokes. Same (colQ.SALPICON Salpiconof ofbeetroot beehoot(cold). sAlprcoNDE DEBETTERA BErrERAvrs Salpicon VES - -Dice Dice cookedbeetroot. beetroot.Season Seasonwith withoil, oil,vinegar, vinegar,salt pepper saltand aacooked andpepper orwith withthick thickmayonnaise. mayonnaise. or Salpiconài lalabohémienne (cold)- -The boh6mienne(cold) Thesame samemixture mixtureasasinin the recipewhich whichfollows (seebelow), follows (see below),bound boundwith withmeatjelly. meat jelly. Salpiconài lalabohémienne (hoQ- -Mixture bolr6nienne (hot) Mixtureofoffoie grasand and foiegras dicedcooked cookedtruffies, truffies, bound (see boundwith wrthMadeira Madeirasauce sauce(see SAUCE) made madewith withtruffie trufreessence. essence. SAUCE) This salpicon sometimes sometimes has has the theaddition This additionofofaasmall small quantity of dicedonion onionstewed stewed ininbutter quantity butterand andseasoned seasonedwith with paprika. Usedfor forcanapés, canapis, tartlets, poached eggs, tartlets,poached paprika. Used eggs,etc. etc. (hot). SALPICON Salpiconof ofbraios brains(hot). s.lnrcoNDE Salpicon DECERVELLE cERvELLE- - Bound Bound with Allemande, Allemande, Béchamel Btchamelor (seeSAUCE). orVelouté Veloutdsauce with sauce(see SAUCE). Snlpicon cancalaise cancalaise(bot) Mixture of poached oysters Salpicon ofpoached oystersand and Oo0 -- Mixture cooked mushrooms, mushrooms, bound vith Normande bound with cooked Normande sauce sauceor orVelouté Velouti (see,SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), based based on onconcentrated concentratedfish sauce fishstock. stock. (hot) -- Mixture Salpicon cardinal cardinal (hot) Mixture of Salpicon ofdiced dicedlobster, lobster, truffies truffies and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with withCardinal (seeSAUCE). Cardinal sauce and sauce (see SAUCE). Salpicon of of carrots carrots ài lala crème. crime. SALPICON Salpicon sAr,prcoNDE nnCAROTTES clnorrrs ÀALA r,c, cnEue -- Dice Dice the part of the orange orange part CRÈME some carrots, of sorne carrots, coyer cover with with water, add g. (2 (2 oz., add 50 50 g. oz.,* cup) butter i cup) water, butter to (scant pint, to each j litre litre (scant pint, 2f cups) water, watero season season with with salt salt and 2,t sugar and uerf!ittle and aa very fittl.'sug"iund cook till ail all the the Iiquid liquid isis absorbed. absorbed. Bind (see Bind with with Cream Creamsauce sauce(see sAUCE). SAUCE). Same uses uses as as the the Salpicon Same Salpicon of of artichokes. artichokes. Salpicon of (cold). SALPICON of celeriac celeriac (cold). Salpicon sAlprcoN DE nr CÉLERl-RAVE cErnnr-nAvE -Cook diced diced celeriac celeriac in in salted Cook salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, bind bind with with thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise. thick Same uses uses as asthe Same the Salpicon Salpicon of of artichokes. artichokes. Salpicon of of celeriac celeriac (bot). Salpicon s.lrrrcoN DE DE CÉLERI-RAVE c6rsRr-nlvr ÀA LA LA ftot). SALPICON cniMs -- Dice Dice a celeriac celeriac root. CRÈME root. Cook Cook in in butter butter in in aa covered pan. covered pan. Season, and (see SAUCE). and bind with Season, with Cream Crearn sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Same uses as the Salpicon Same Salpicon of of artichokes. artichokes. Salpicon of ctpes ài la Salpicon la crème. crOme. SALPICON sAlprcoN DE or CÈPES ctprs ÀA LA ll CRÈME cniuE -- Dice cooked cepes. Stew Stew in in butter. butter. Bind Bind with with Cream Crearn sauce sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). Same uses as asthe the Salpicon of of artichokes. artichokes. Salpicon ài la chalonnaise (hot) -- Mixture of combs of cocks' cocks'combs and trufles, truffies, bound with Allemande Allemande sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Salpicon chasseur (hot) - Dice chicken lilivers, vers, sauté sautd in in butter mushrooms, bound with concentrated Chasseur and mix with mushrooms, Chasseur sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Salpicon of chicken. chicken. SALPICON VOLAILLE -- This is Salpicon of sA.LprcoN DE voLATLLE is made made with with left-over chicken. chicken. Dice Dice the the chicken chicken and and bind bind with with Allemande, Bhchamel, Béchamel, Cream or Veloutd Velouté sauce Allemande, (see SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). A A brown brown veal stock stock may also be be used. used. This salpicon salpicon is used as as aa filling for vol-au-vent, barquettes This barquettes and uoustadcs, croustades, as aa garnish for poached poached or soft-boiled soft-boiled eggs, eggs, or for for croquettes. croquettes. or Salpicon ofchicken of chicken livers. livers. sAlprcoN SALPICON DE DE ForEs FOIES DE DE voLArLLEs VOLAlLLESSalpicon Like Like Salpicon Salpicon offoie gras. ""'Lni,"",--,,, DE CRÊTES Bound with Salpicon of cucks' combs. sAlptcoN DE cn0rns - Bound with Allemande, Bhchamel Béchamel or or Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), or or Allemande, brown veal stock, stock, concentrated concentrated and and thickened. thickened. (See (See COCK'S COCK'S brownveal COMB for for other other salpicons.) salpicons.) COMB Salpicon of of crayffsh. crayftsh. sAlprcoN SALPICON o'fcnsvnsEs D'ÉCREVISSES - Bound Bound with with Salpicon -Vinaigrette Béchamel, Nantua Nantua or or Crayfish sauce (hot) (hot);; with Vinaigrette or Btchamel, or MtlYOnmlise sauce sauce (cold) (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Mayonnaise of cucumbers cucumbers (cold). (cold). sAlprcoN SALPICON DE DE coNcoMBREs CONCOMBRES Salpicon of Split cucumbers cucumbers lengthwise, lengthwise, remove rem ove their their seeds, seeds, and and dice. dice. Split Spread on a cloth, sprinkle with salt and leave till they are Spread on a cloth, sprinkle with salt and leave till they are

Trout with pink with pink - Trout

-

SALPICON -- Pn~paration Preparation of of one one or or more more ingredients ingredients cut cut in in SALPICON small dice and with aa sauce. sauce. small dice and bound with Salpicons, with other other hors-d' hors-d œuvre euvre mixtures, mixtures, are are used used to fill fill Salpicons, with pastry and other other tartlets, tartlets, canapés, pastry cases, canopis, pastry pastry barquettes barquettes and croustades cases, rissoles and timbales. croustades or or hollowed hollowed bread bread cases, rissoles and They into cromesqal,s, cutlets and croquettes, croquettes, They may may be be made made into cl'omesquis, cuUets and some cuts and are are used used to to stuffeggs, stuff eggs, poultry, poultry, game, game, fish fish and sorne of meat. ofmeat. Cold are seasoned with Vinaigrette or MayonCold salpicons salpicons are seasoned with Mayonnaise naise sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). In salpicons of of fresh or In pastry pastry making making and and confectionery confectionery salpicons candied candied fruit fmit are are used. used. Salpicon ..::::Ial.JI.II\;UIII ii:J I'am6ricaine l'américaine (hot)(bot) - Lobster Lobster or spiny lobster flesh dà l'am6ricaine, bound bound with with American American sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Salplcon Salpicon of of anchovies anchovies (hot (hot or cold). co Id). slrrrcors SALPICON D'ANcHors D'ANCHOIS De-salted De-salted anchovy anchovy fillets fiUets cut cut into into dice. dice. Use Use hot hot or or cold according according to to the the particular particular recipe. recipe. Salpicon of of artichokes artichokes (cold). (cold). sAr,prcoN SALPICON D'ARTrcH^e,urs D'ARTICHAUTS Artichoke rtiLJ\..JIIUJH; bottoms bottoms cooked cooked in in flour flour and and water water court-bouillon court-bouillon drained, drained, dried, dried, cut cut in in dice, dice, and and bound bound with with mavonnaise mayonnaise thickened thickened with withjelly. jelly. Used Used to to garnish garnish eggs, eggs, fish, fish, cold cold chicken, chicken, pastry pastry boats boats and and tartlets. tartlets. Salpicon of ofartichokes artichokes with with cream. cream. sAr,prcoN SALPICON D'ARTTcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS A t,c, cRttm- Dice Diceartichoke artichoke bottoms b6ttomshalf halfcooked cooked in in flour flour and and water court-bouillon. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in butter. butter. Season Season and and water court-bouillon. bind bindwith withaafew fewtablespoons tablespoonsthick thick Cream Cream sauce(see sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). This This salpicon,like salpicon, Iike all ail the the vegetables vegetabJes in in the the recipes recipes which which follow, Velouté sauce sauce lsee (see SAUCE; SAUCE) follow, may maybe bebound bound with witb thick thick Velout| instead instead ofcream of creamsauce. sauce. Used Used as as garnish with with eggs, eggs, barquettes and and tartlets, tartlets, u/ith with small smallcuts cutsof meat, poultry, poultry,and and with fish. Salpicon ofgreen green asparagus asparagus (cold). (cold). sAlprcoN SALPICON D'AspERcEs D'ASPERGES Salpicon of 800 800

SALPICON SALPICON Diced Diced mushrooms mushrooms cooked cooked and and bound bound with with thick thick mayonmayon-

translucent. translucent. Dry Dry them, them, season season with with oil oil and and vinegar vinegar or or bind bind them with with thick thick mayonnaise. mayonnaise. them Same uses uses as as Salpicon Salpicon of artichokes. Same Cussy (hot) (hot) -- Mixture of ofsweetbreads, sweet breads, truffies truffies and and Salpicon Cussy mtISnrOI~m.s, bound bound with with concentrated concentrated Madeira Madeira sauce sauce (see (see mushrooms, SAUCE). sAUCE). Salpicon cutlets. cutlets. cOrnrrrrns CÔTELETTES DE DE sALPIcoNs SALPICONS -- These These are are Salpicon made with witb aa salpicon salpicon of of various various ingredients, ingredients, to to which which diced diced made mushrooms and and truffies truffies are are added added and and combined combined with with an mushrooms Allemande or or aa Btchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Allemande Make into into cutlet cutlet shapes, shapes, dip dip in egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and Make cook in in clarified clarified butter. butter. cook Salpicon ià la la dieppoise dieppoise (hot) (hot) -- Mixture Mixture of of crayfish, mussels mussels Salpicon and mushrooms, mushrooms, bound bound with with Normande Normande sauce sauce ot or White White wine and sauce I1(see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). sauce Salpicon ià l'6carlate l'écarlate (hot) -- Pickled Pickled tongue bound bound with Salpicon SAUCE). (see SAUCE). Demi-glace sauce (see hard-boiled eggs. sALPIcoN SALPICON D'oEUFs D'OEUFS DURS DURS -Salpicon of hard-boiled Veloutt sauce Allemande, Bbchamel, Cream Cream ot or Velouté Bound with Allemande, (see Vinaigrette or or Mayonnaise sauce sauce (cold) (cold) (see (hot); with with Vinaigrette SAUCE). of quenelles, cocks' Salpicon ià la financi0re financière (hot) (hot) -- Mixture Mixture of Salpicon with combs, cocks'kidneys, cocks' kidneys, mushrooms and truffies, bound with combs, SAUCE)' Financière sauce (see SAUCE). concentrated Financibre offish. SALPICON DE PoIssoN POISSON -- Cooked fish bound fish. sALPIcoN Salpicon of (hot); witb with with Btchamel, Normande Normande or White White wine sauce 1/ (hot); SAUCE)' Mayonnaise sauce (cold) (see SAUCE). Vinaigrette or Mayonnaise ot Sherry Sherry Port or Salpicon of gras -- Bound with Madeira, port of foie gras Salpicon in jelly (cold). sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or game stock (hot), injelly sauce DE HARICOTS HARIcors (cold). SALPICON Salpicon of French se'rrlcot'l DE French beans (cold). VERTS asparagus. of green asparagus. vERrs -- Like Salpicon of (hot). SALPICON DE s.l'ntcoN DE Salpicon of French la crème crime (hot). beans ài la French beans and cook cook HARICOTS beans and cniMs -- Dice French beans r,c, CRÈME vsnrs ÀA LA HARIcors VERTS in butter butter briskly in salted water, but keep Simmer in firm- Simmer keep fairly fairly finn. briskly (see SAUCE). in covered SAUCE). with Cream Creatn sauce (see covered pan. Bind with Same of artichokes. artichokes. the Salpicon Salpicon of uses as as the Same uses Salpicons These salpicons, salpicons, DE FRUITS FRUITs -- These sALPIcoNs DE fruit. SALPICONS of fruit. Salpicons of (apricots, cherries, cherries, made syrup (apricots, in syrup cooked in fruit cooked fresh fruit with fresh made with filling or or as filling peaches, used as plums, etc.) are used etc.) are pears, apples, peaches, pears, apples, plums, Salpicons dishes ' Salpicons garnisb pastries and sweet dishes. and sweet great many garnish for many pastries for aa great way. same way. in the the same used in fruits, used candied fruits, from candied be made from may also also be in liqueur. liqueur. soaked in be soaked should be Frutt salpicons salpicons should white Salpicon with white Bound with DE GIBIER GIBIER -- Bound game. SALPICON sALPlcoN DE of game. Salpicon of (hot); bound with or bound with game used used (hot); the game on the based on sauce, based or brown brown sauce, jelly jelly (cold). (cold). with Salpicon Made with DE JAMBON JAMBoN -- Made (hot). SALPICON s.nrrrcoN DE ham (hot). of ham Salpicon of cooked ham. cooked barn. Cut Demi-glace with Demi-glace bind with dice and and bind small dice into small ham into the ham Cut the be SAUCE). Various can be forcemeats can garnishes and and forcemeats Various garnishes sauce (seeSAUCE). ftorscold horsother cold and other for canapés canapts and use for When cold cold use added. When d'œuvre. deuvre. Salpicon DE SALPIcoN DE artichokes. SALPICON Jerusalem artichokes. of Jernsalem Salpicon of TOPINAMBOURS with madewith of artichokes, artichokes, made Like Salpicon Salpicon of ropNlMsouns -- Like Jerusalem water. salted water. cookedininsalted artichokes cooked Jerusalem artichokes Salpicon (hot) -- Mixture of crayfish, trufres Mixture of Joinville (hot) Salpicon ài lala Joinville and (see SAUCE). sauce(see with Joinville Joinvillesauce bound with mushrooms bound and mushrooms Salpicon with Bound with HoMARD - - Bound DEHOMARD sALPIcoN DE lobster. SALPICON of lobster. Salpicon of Béchamel, with Vinaigrette (hot);with or Vinaigretteor sauce (bot); Nantua sauce orNantua Lobsteror Btchamel, Lobster IIA/'''''.HJ/noosauce (seeSAUCE). (cold)(see SAUCE)' Mayonnaise sauce (cold) VIANDES DE - Made Made DEDESSERTE DEssERTEDEVIANDEs sALPIcoN DE Salpicon of meat.SALPICON pork) cut cutinin (beef, veal, mutton, pork) veal,lamb, lamb, mutton, meats (beef, with left-over meats dice sauce. whitesauce. orwhite brown or with brown diceand and bound boundwith These andkromeskromescroquettesand makecroquettes tomake usedto areused Thesesalpicons salpicons are kies etc. crusts,etc. hollowedcrusts, pastrycases, cases,hollowed tofill fillpastry orto kies or Salpicon pickled gras,pickled (hot)- - Mixture of foiegras, Mixtureoffoie Montglas (hot) Salpicon ài lalaMontglas withconcentrated concentrated boundwith mushrooms, bound and mushrooms, trufresand tongui, truffies (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). sauce(see Madeirasauce Salpicon (cold).SALPICON DECHAMPIGNONScHAMPIGNoNS slrucoN DE of mushrooms(cold). Salpiconofmushrooms

naise. naise. Same Same uses uses as as Salpicon of ofartichokes. artichokes. DE Salpicon Salpicon of of mushrooms and and other other fungi (ho0. (hot). SALPIcoN SALPICON DE cHAMpIcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS DE DE coucHe COUCHE - Dice Dice peeled and and washed washed mushmush(see rooms. rooms. Cook Cook gently gently in in butter, butter, bind with with Cream Cream sauce sauce (see

SAUCE). SAUCE). Same Same uses uses as as Salpicon Salpicon of of artichokes. artichokes. (hot). SALPIcoN DE Salpicon Salpicon of of mushrooms mushrooms with with Madeira Madeira (hot). SALPICON DE in butter. diced mushrooms cHAMprcNoNs^l.u CHAMPIGNONS AU unoinr-Cook MADÈRE - Cook diced mushrooms in butter. other Madeira or or other little Madeira with aa little Dilute Dilute the the cooking juices juices with (see sauce (see concentrated Demi-glace with concentrated liqueur wine. wine. Bind with Demi-glace sauce of as Salpicon Salpicon of stock. Same Same uses on mushroom SAUCE) based mushroom stock. uses as based on artichokes. artichokes. Bound (hot). SALPICON DE MOULES MouLEs -- Bound serucoN DE of mussels Salpicon of mussels (hot). (hot); with with sazce (hot); wine sauce White wine or White Poulette, or with Allemande, Poulette, with (see SAUCE). (cold) (see SAUCE). sauce (cold) Mayonnaise sauce or Mayonnaise Vinaigrette or Cook the the White. Cook D'oIcNoN -- White. sALpIcoN D'OIGNON of ornon. onion. SALPICON Salpicon of Salpicon (see SAUCE). sauce (see with Cream Cream sauce bind with in butter, butter, bind onions in onions Demiwith conc
truffies bound truffies SAUCE). SAUCE).

Madeira concentrated Madeira with concentrated

(see sauce (see sauce

DE TERRETERRE DE POMMES PoMMES DE (cold). SALPICON SALPIcoN DE Salpicon of potatoes (cold). jackets, peeled, dice, and and peeled, cut into dice, cut into in their their jackets, Potatoes cooked in Potatoes (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see Mayonnaise sauce or Mayonnaise with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or mixed with mixed of artichokes. artichokes. use as as Salpicon Salpicon of Same use Same meat, chicken meat, (hot) -- Mixture white chicken Mixture of of white la reine reine (hot) Salpicon Ildr la (see sauce (see w{h Allemande Allemande sauce bound with trufres, bound and truffies, mushrooms and mllSDIrOOrI1S sAUCE). SAUCE). truffies and and (hot) -- Mixture of truffies Mixture of la royale royale (hot) Salpicon ài la Salpicon pur6e. with chicken chicken purée. mushrooms bound bound with mushrooms with (hot) -- Game meat, bound bound with Game meat, la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert (hot) Salpicon àir la Salpicon pan with the the pan (see SAUCE) down wjth boiled down SAUCE) boiled sauce (see Demi-glace sauce Ueml--f!112ce game. juices left from the game. from cooking the juices Bound DECREVETTES cREVETTEs - - Bound snlrlcoN DE Salpicon of shrimps (hot). SALPICON Salpicon or with Vinaigrette Vinaigrette or or Shrimp sauce (hot); with Btcharnel or with Béchamel with (cold) (see SAUCE). Mayonnaise sauce (cold) DE SALPIcoN DE crawfish. SALPICON or crawfish. lobster or Salpicon of spiny lobster lobster. oflobster. Llke Salpicon of LANGousrELANGOUSTE - Like (hot). SALPICON RIsD'AGNEAU, D'AGNEAU, DERIS sALPIcoN DE sweetbreads(hot). of sweetbreads Salpicon of Salpicon Demi-glace, Bbcharnel, Demi-glace, with Allemande, Allemande, Béchamel, Bound with DE VEAU vEAU - - Bound DE (see SA SAUCE). sauce(see or Suprême Supr1me sauce Madeira or Madeira UCE). the Peel the roMATEs- - Peel DETOMATES slrplcoN DE tomatoes1.I. SALPICON of tomatoes Salpicon of Salpicon dice.Season Season them inindice. Cutthem seeds. Cut remove theseeds. tomatoes and and rem tomatoes ove the yield sorne oftbeir their someof clothtoto yield onaac10th lay them them on salt and and lay with salt with vinegar' withoil oiland andvinegar. season with are,or orseason they are, Useas asthey moisture. Use moisture. asSalpicon uses as Salpicon of artichokes. Same uses Same Dicethe the DETOMATES ToMATEs - - Dice slrptcoNDE oftomatoes tomatoes II. SALPICON Salpiconof Salpicon plungethem foraa themfor basket, plunge wirebasket, Put them them ininaawire tomatoes. Put tomatoes. water. saltedwater. intoboiling boilingsalted minute into minute mixed saucesand andmixed soups,sauces ingredient ininsoups, asan anauxiliary auxiliaryingredient Useas Use

salpicons. fresh Madewith withfresb DETRUFFES TRUFFES- -Made sALPIcoN DE Salpicon of trufres.SALPICON trufres. withtinned tinnedtruffies. Madeira,ororwith cookedininMadeira, rawor orcooked truffies,raw truffies, pepper,oil oiland and withsalt saltand andpepper, seasonwith dice,season theminindice, Cut Cutthem

preparajuice, ororleave forcold coldpreparaarefor theyare themasasthey leavethem lem on juice, lemon tions. tions. few theminina afew bindthem butterororbind themininbutter simmerthem dishes,simmer For Forhot hotdishes, Madeira,oror withMadeira, flavouredwith sauceflavoured tat)le~m()OrlS ofDemi-glace Demi-glace sauce tablespoons of (seeSAUCE). coldasasa a Usedcold SAUCE).Used sauce(see Creamsauce with with Velout|ororCream hot made-upsasalads; fish,made-up witheggs, eggs,fisb, garnishininhors-d'œuvre, garnish lads ; hot hors-d'euvre,with ingredient supplementary ingredient andasasa asupplementary etc.,and ininbarquettes, tartlets,etc., barquettes,tartlets, mixtures. variousmixtures. andvarious ininsauces, forcemeats, and sauces,forcemeats, AIIemwithAllemBoundwith VEAU- -Bound DEVEAU sALPIcoNDE veal.SALPICON Salpiconofofveal. brown SAUCE)ororbrown sauce (seeSAUCE) ande, Demi-glacesauce ande, BtchamelororDemi-glace (hot);bound with jelly (cold). veal boundwithjelly vealstock stock(hot);

801 801

SALSIFY SAISIFY ororOYSTER OYSTER PLANT. PLANT. SALSIHS sAlsrFrs- - The Thename nameofof SALSIFY salsify,ororoyster plant,isisused oysterplant, usedLlOt notonly onlyfor forthe theroot rootofofthe the salsify, plantof ofthe theCompositae Compositae family, family,but alsofor butalso forthat thatof another ofanother plant plant thesame same famîly ofthe familywhlch whichbotanica!ly botanicallyisiscalJed called ScorScorplant of zonera. zonera. Whileone oneof ofthese theseroots, roots, that thatof ofthe thetrue truesalsify, salsify,isiswhite white While outside,that thatof ofthe thescorzonera scorzonera îsisbJackish. blackish. The The flesh fleshof ofthese these outside, two roots rootsisisvery verysimilar similar inintaste, taste,and andthey they are prepared ininthe arepreparod the two sameway. same way. The word word SCOf'lOnera scorzonera cornes comes from from the theCatalan Catalanescorso, escorso, The which means meansviper. viper.The plant was The plant was so socallod, called, itit isissaid, said, because because which formerly, ininSpain, Spain, itit was wasused used as asaa remedy remedy for for the the bite biteofthls of this formerly, dangerous snake. snake. dangerous The wild wild sais salsify, known as goat's beard, as goat's grows beard, grows The ify, commonly known in the the fields fields and and in in damp damp and rich pastureland. The rich pastureland. The young in plant can shoots of of this this plant can be be eaten eaten in in salad salad and and can can also aiso be shoots prepared like like spinach. spinach. The The roots roots are are eaten eaten like like those those of of prepared scorzonera. scorzoner3. The stalks stalks or or tender tender shoots shoots of of salsify salsify and and scorzonera scorzonera may may The prepared in also be be prepared in various various ways. ways. They They are are mostly mostly eaten eaten raw raw also in salad. salad. in To cook salsify. Scrape the salsify roots roots and and divide divide them them plunge them into chunks 7 to 8 cm cm (about 3 inches) long. long. Plunge them as as prepared into they are are prepared into water water with with aa Iittle little lemon lemon or or vinegar vinegar in in they prevent them it, to to prevent them from from luming turning black. black. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, in in aa it, boiling flour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon court-bouillon over gentle heat, over aa gentle heat, for for boiling about 22 hours. hours. Put Put ioto into aa basin basin and and keep keep in in aa cool cool place. about Drain and and dry dry the the salsify salsify before preparing- it ln before prepariog in any any Drain way. It It is is served served by itself itselfas vegetable or used used as garnish. as aa garnish. way. as aa vegeta ble or When it it isis not not to to be be used used immediately, immediately, itit can can he be kept in in its its When cooking liquor liquor and and left left for for several several days days withoui without deterioratcooking mg. ing. pick the To cook cook leoves leaves or or shoots of of salsify or oyster plaat. the To plant. Pick tender shoots, wash wash them plenty of water and cook them in cook in in a tender shoots, in plenty flour-and-water court-bouillon court-bouillon for for 40 Drain, dry, flour-and-water 40 minutes. Drain, and prepare and prepare according to to the recipe. Salsify in sAlsrFrs A le in bechamel. SALSIFIS LA nfcslMnl BÉCHAMEL -- Cook Cook in În flour-and-water nour-an,Q-\lV3[er court-bouillon court-bouillon and cut eut into chunks 4 to 5 cm (ll to cover with thin to 22 inches) inches) long. long. Put Put them them in in aa saut6 saulé pan, pan, coyer Btchamel Bé,cht:lm.~l sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and simmer. Before Defore serving serving add add aa few few tablespoons fresh fresh cream. cream. Salsify Salsify prepared in in this this way way is is often often described described as dà la la uime. crème. Sahify Salstfy au au beurre noisette. noi~tte. sArsrFrs SALSlFlS AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NoTSETTE NOISETTE Cook Cook the the salsify salsify in in a a flour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon. court-bouillon. Serve Serve piping hot hot in in a a dish dish sprinkled with with a a few tablespoons tablespoolJs of Noisette kttter buller (see (see BUTTER). Salsify Sa]suy ià la la crime. crème. sAlsrFrs SALSlFlS A À Le LA cniMs CRÈME -- prepared Prepared like Iike Salsifu Salsify in În bicharnel. béchamel. Alternatively, Alternatively, the the salsify, salsify, after after being heing lightly lighlly cooked cooked in in butter, butter, may may be be covered covered with with fresh fresh cream cream and and simmered simmered gently. Sa|dry fritters. fTitien. sArsrFrs SALSIFIS FRrrs, FRJTS, FRrror FRITOT DE DE sArsrFrs SALSIFIS -- Cook Cook salsify salsify roots roots in in aa flour-and-water fiour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drain, drain, and and pieces. cut in Cul in pieces. Put Put them them in in aa deep deep dish, dish, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, sprinkle with with chopped parsley, oil oil and and lemon lemon juice juîce and leave them to 10 soak soak for for 30 minutes. Take Take them them out out of ofthe the marinade marinade with with aa perforated perforated spoon, spoon, diqtlem dip·them in in aa light Iight batter balter (see (see BATTERS BATIERS FOR FOR FRyINc) FRYING) and and fry fry in in smoking smoking hot hot deep deep fat. fat. Drain, Drain, garnish gamish with with fried fried parsley and andserve. serve. Saldfy Mornay. Mornay. sAlsrFrs SALS!fLS MoRNAy MORNAY -- Stew Stew the the salsify salsify in in -butter butter and and put put them them in in aa gratin gratin dish dish lined line
yolksofofhard-boilod choppedyolks hard-boiled eggs, parsley.Before eggs,and andparsley. Before serving pour over overaaHttle little Noisette Noisette butter (seeBUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, in which some Compound buuers)rnwhich somefreshly freshlymade madebreadcrumbs breadcrumbs have 25 g.g.(1(lOZ., t cup) have been friod, fried, allowing25 oz.,* cup)breadcrumbs breadcrumbstoto .100 g.(4oz., 100 g.(4 oz.,!cup) butter. {cup)butter. salad. SALSIFIS Salsit'salad. sersFrs EN ENSALADE SALADE - - Cook Cook the thesalsify salsify ininaa _Salsify flour-and-water flour-and-water courl-bouUlon. court-bouillon. Drain Drain them, them,dry dryand andcut cutinto into pieces. SeasoD pieces. juice), salt Season with with oil, oil, vinegar (or (or lemon lemon juice), salt and and pepper. Sprinkle with with chopped parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. Salsify shoots. rrcEs DE sAr"sms - These maybe may be cooked and prepared as as for forsalsify, salsify, or orserved servedraw rawininsalads. salads. Sabify sautéed sauteed au au beurre. beure. SALSIFIS sAlsrFrs SAUTÉS slurfs AU AU BEURRE BEURRE drain, Cook salsify roots roots in in aa Aour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon, court-bouillon,drain, dry, dry, cut cut in in pieces and and sauté sauti in in hOl hot butter. butter. Season. Season. SaIsify Salsify S8utéed saut6ed aux fines herbes. auxfines herbes. SALSIFIS sArsrFrs SAUTÉS saurfs AU)( AUx FINES FrNEs HERBES HERBES -- As As above, above, adding adding chopped parsley parsley to to the the salsify. Salsify Salsify sautéed saut6ed à la la provengale. SALSIFlS s,cJsmrs SAUTÉS slunfu A LA r,l pRovENgALs Sauté the salsify in aa mixture mixture of of butter butter and and oil oil - Sautd tbe (half-and-half). Add Add l tablespoon tablespoon of of chopped garlic and chopped garlic and parsley. parsley. U BLOND U, SALSIFIS Salsify in veaI veal stock. stock. SAL.'ilflS sAr,srrts AAU BLoND DB DB VEA vEAU, sArsrFrs AU AU rus Partly cook cook salsify salsify roots roots in in aa flour-and-water flour-and-water courlcourtbouU/on, bouillon, drain, dry dry and and eut in pieces. Stew cut in for aa few Stew for few moments moments in in butter butter unlil until lightly lightly browned. Moisten Moisten with with aa few few tabletablespoons veal veal stock. stock. Finish cooking cooking the salsify salsify in in this this stock. stock.

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I

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SALT. SALT. SEL ser- -- Sodium Sodium chloride, chloride, the tirs! first salt salt to to be be dîscovered discovered by by man, man, which has given its name to has given to ail all analagous analagous chemical chemical products. producLs. There are are two two sorts sorts of of salt. salt: sea sea salt, salt, distilled distilled from from seaseawater, and rock salt, found in the earth earth in in crystalline fonn. form. Sea Sea salt salt is the the only minerai mineral condiment that we we add add ta to our our food, and it may noted that Ihat the the higher the vegetable food, and it may be be noted higher the vegetable content of is true truc of the diet, the greater is the need need ofsalt. of salt. Thls ThiJis animaIs as weil; herbivorous creatures are greedy greedy for for among animals as well; creatures are salt but carnivorous carnivorous animals animals have no desire for for it. it. no desire The average consumption consumption of salt, among among people people who who do do of salt, not abuse abuse the the use of of this condiment, condiment, is about about 88 to ta l0 10 g. g. aa day. day. Foodstuffs Foodstuffs (before (hefore salt salt is added) contain 1 1 to 10 lj 1-!- g. g. in in an an is added during cooking cooking or or at at the the ordinary diet and the rest is table. Complete abstinence from from salt salt has has not not been been found found table. possible possible even even in În the the most most austere austere monastic monastic orders. orders. Sorne culinary cullnary practices praclices influence influence the the consumption of of - or Some - or need need for for -- salt. salt. Boiling Boiling vegetables vegetables in in aa large quantity of water deprives them Ihem of a a large large part part of of their mineral salts, saJts, aa deprives which one one instinctively instinctively corrects corrects by by adding adding salt salt at al deficiency which deficiency the table; table; potatoes potatoes cooked cooked in in hot hol ashes ashes or or in in the the oven oven have have the sufficient taste taste to to be he eaten ealen without without salt, salt, while while those those cooked cooked in in sufficient great deal deal of of water water are are almost almost uneatable uneatable without without this this aa great seasoning. Vegetables Vegetables stewed stewod in in their their own own juices juices also also need need seasoning. much less Icss salt. salt. much kinds of salt salt. Grey Grey (rock) (rock) salt salt is is less less pure, pure, but but Different kinds Diferent among its ils 'impurities' there there are are traces Iraces of of valuable valuable minerals minerais among such as as arsenic; .itit isis thus thus rational rational to 10 use use this this for for cooking cooking and and such keep the the white white salt salt for for the the table. table. keep Various brands brands of oftable table salt salt are aremarketed; marketed; some, sorne, generally generally Various asthe theresult result of ofadding phosphateof oflime, havethe theadvantage advantage as adding phosphate lime, have thatthe thesalt sali keeps keepsits itspowder form, form, whereas whereaspure salt tends tendsto to that return to to its its crystalline state state under under the Ihe action of of humidity. humidity. return Other products, products, chemically chemically produced, produced, contain contain a a muCh much Other weaker proportion proportion of ofsodium sodium chloride chloride or or are are even cven made made up up weaker entÎrely of ofdifferent different types types of ofsalt salt which which have have aa taste taste more more or or entirely lesscomparable with withsea seasalt. salt.These Theseproducts produClsare aredesigned designedto to less give givean anillusion of ofsalt salttotoinvalids invalidson onaasalt-free salt-freediet. dÎet. Generallyspeaking speakingthese thesevarious variousproducts productsmust must be headded added Generally foodsluffsatalthe thetable, table,their theirtaste tastebeing beingmuch muchweakened weakenedtotofoodstuffs even' altogether-- ifjfthey theyire a redissolved. dissolve
SANDWICH SANDWICH Whenmaking makingup upaasalt-free saIt-freediet dietititisisimportant importantto torecognlse recognise When that fruit, fruit, most most vegetables vegetables and, and, with with certain certain exceptions, exceptions, that cereals are arethe theleast least rich rich ininsalt; saIt; meat meatand and eggs eggshave haveless lessthan than cereals milk. A A salt-free salt-free diet diet demands demands aa special special bread bread with with aa milk.

genuinely genuinelylow lowsalt saltcontent content or orthe the replaCement replacement of ofbread bread in in the the diet dietby bypotatoes. potatoes.

Celery salt. salt. srr SEL on DE cfrnnr CÉLERI -- Fine Fine salt salt flavoured flavoured with with dried dried Celery

and powdered powderedcelery. celery. This Thiscondiment, condiment, which which isis commercially commercially and and marketed, marketed, isis excellent. excellent. prepared and -prepared salt (for (for forcemeats). forcemeats). snr SEL fptcf ÉPICÉ -- Mix Mix I1 ke. kg. (21lb.) (2i lb.) Spiced salt Spiced fine dry dry salt salt with with 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.,lt oz., licups) cups) white white pepper pepper and and 200 200 fine g. cups) mixed g. (7 (7 oz.,lf oz., licups) mixed sPices. spices. SALT GRINDER.EcRucsolRGRINDER. ÉGRUGEOIR - Small Small mortar mortar or or mill mill made made SALT ofwood and used used for for grinding grinding rock rock salt salt to to powder. powder. wood and of SALTING. sALAIsoN SALAISON -- Operation Operation which which consists consists of of treating treating SALTING. meat, fish fish and and various various other other substances substances with with salt, salt, or or of of meat, immersing them them in in brine, brine, to to preserve preserve them them for for a long long time. time. immersing (See (See BRINE.) BRINE.) Meats and and other other foodstuffs foodstuffs which which have have been been treated treated in in this this Meats are called caUed salaisons salaisons in in French. French. way are way TUB. seroln SALOIR -- Large Large bucket bucket in in which which pieces pieces of of SALTING TUB. meat are are put put to to be be pickled pickled in in brine. meat salting tubs. There are are different different kinds of ofsalting tubs. One One kind, kind, aa simple simple There receptacle, is used used in in domestic domestic kitchens kitchens to salt pieces pieces of of meat, meat, receptacle, mostly pork; pork; others others are great great vats of of wood, stone or or cement, cement, mostly France are are of France different regions of of various shapes, which in different barbantelles. called baignoires, baignoires, bagnons bagnons or barbante/les. called

is Each is best. Each are the or cement cement are stone or Salting tubs in in stone the best. Salting tubs inside the the fits inside which fits frame, which provided with aa lattice-work frame, provided with objects, receptacle. On this are placed stones or other heavy objects, receptacle. are completely brine are in the the brine so the substances put in substances put so that that the immersed. immersed.

Samphire Samphire

anfish, antunny fish, with sardines, sardines, tunny made with Sandwiches made of bread. bread. Sandwiches of were omelettes were flat omelettes with flat even with and even chicken and sliced chicken chovies, sliced chovies, Engfrom Engcoming from word, coming the word, well before before the in France France well known in known terminology. culinary terminology. French culinary into French had entered entered into land, had land, Englishwith Englishmade with are made Sandwiches are make sandwiches. sandwiches. Sandwiches To make To bread, enriched bread, or enriched ordinary or with ordinary French bread, bread, with or French type bread bread or type with made with rolls made boat-shaped roBs special boat-shaped with special or with bread, or bllck bread, black at served at mostly served are mostly The latter latter are DOUGH). The Brioche dough dough(see Brioche (see DOUGH). painsfourrts. petits pains called petits often called are often in France France are parties and and in parties fourrés.

pn6-sarE -- Young in fattened in sheep fattened Young sheep SALT MEADOW. PRÉ-SALÉ SALT MEADOW. aromatic in aromatic rich in are rich These are sea. These the sea. meadows bordering the meadows bordering flesh. of the flesh. delicacy of increases the delicacy pasture pasture which greatly increases crystalline white crystalline nitre, aa white nitrate, nitre, SALTPETRE Potassium nitrate, SALTPETRE -- Potassium piquant and and aalittle tasting, piquant fresh tasting, salt y substance, little odourless, fresh substance, odourless, salty Used water. Used in cold so in cold water. less so water, less hot water, in hot bitter, soluble in easily soluble bittir, easily red gives an agreeable red an agreeable because in ustries beca use itit gives industries salting ind in the the salting toughens. because itit toughens. doses because in small small doses colour only in but only meat, but to meat, colour to gunpowder.) of gunpowder.) (It (It isis also constituent of used as as aa constituent also used

EN PAIN BRIocHE sANDwIcHs EN bread. SANDWICHS in brioche brioche bread. Sandwiches in Sandwiches PAIN BRIOCHErolls using boat-shaped boat-shaped roUs sandwiches, using ordinary sandwiches, like ordinary Made like Made rolls). (like bridge English mixture (like English bridge ro11s). of brioche brioche mixture made of made EN PAIN nI-Oru ou sANDwIcHs EN bread. SANDWICHS French bread. of French Sandwiches of Sandwiches PAIN FLÛTE OU are usually made France in Sandwiches or rvrENlcr EN PAIN EN PAIN DE MÉNAGE - Sandwiches in France are usually made sausageround or or sausageeither round rolls, either pains, i.e. i.e. crusty crusty rolls, petits pains, from petits from as same fillings fillings as with the thesame filled with andfilled buttered and split open, open, buttered shaped,split shaped, bread. for English-type English-type bread. for in sandwiches in intosandwiches made into and made split and are split loaves are French loaves Long French Long way. same way. the same the DE MIE PAIN DE AUPAIN sANDwIcHs AU bread. SANDWICHS loaf bread. withloaf Sandwiches with MIESandwiches mustard. little with aalitt mixed with with butter butter mixed of bread bread with slices of Spreadslices Spread le mustard. the sandwiches atat the Trim the thesandwiches slices.Trim twoslices. meat between between two Press meat Press triangles. ortriangles. rectangles or intorectangles cutinto sidesand andcut sides with filledwith arefilled breadare Engtish-type bread with English-type madewith Sandwiches made Sandwiches tongue, ham,tongue, slices: ham, intotilln thinslices: cutinto meat,cut of meat, kinds of various kinds various other orother chicken or pressed beef, pork, pressed beef, chicken roast pork, mortadella, roast mortadel/a,

the same same of the island of the island on the harvested on wine harvested SAMOS Sweet wine SAMOS -- Sweet name ArchiPelago. Greek Archipelago. in the the Greek name in grows on cliffs, by by on cliffs, plant which which grows Hardy plant SAMPHIRE. nlcLs-- Hardy SAMPHIRE. BACILE cress and and of Peter's cress names ofPeter's the names under the the known under It isis also sea. It also known the sea. soil, and and isis rocky soil, and rocky gardens, in in dry dry and grown in in gardens, sea-fennel. sea-fennel. ItIt isis grown eaten salad. principally as asaasalado eaten principally purslane, or or like purslane, or cream, cream, like in butter butter or ItIt can cooked in also be be cooked can also gherkins. pickled like gherkins. pickled in in vinegar vinegar like

found fish found small fish foraasmall name SAND me for Common na fqurrlr -- Common EEL. ÉQUILLE SANDEEL. tide. ItIt isis low tide. sand at atlow the sand itself ininthe on buries itself sandy beaches. beaches.ItIt buries onsandy (q.v.). smelt (q.v.). cooked wayas asthe thesmelt in thesame the same way cooked in French. inFrench. Sand langon in called lançon alsocalled eelisisalso Sandeel

watersparrow, sparrow, edible water SANDPIPER. Small edible Mlusicnn - - Small SAI\DPIPER. MAUBÈCHE (q.v.). cooked assnipe snipe(q.v.). wayas same way thesame cookedininthe

veal,etc. etc. roastveal, poultry,roast roast beef, beef,roast poultry, cucumbers following:cucumbers with the thefollowing: filled with befilled mayalso alsobe They may They of slicesof buttered slices twobuttered between two stylebetween pickledininthe Russianstyle theRussian pickled other andother anchoviesand gratedhorseradish, horseradish, anchovies withgrated sprinkledwith breadsprinkled bread artichokes etc.,artichokes sprats,etc., kilkis,sprats, herrings, kilkis, suchasasherrings, saltfish fishsuch filletedsalt filleted hard-boiled withhard-boiled mixedwith dice,mixed smalldice, (artichoke bottoms cutininsmall bottomscut (artichoke prawns' orprawns, shrimpsor watercress,shrimps orwatercress, cressor dice),cress cutinindice), alsocut eggs,also eggs, purde (thebutter witha apurée mixedwith buttermixed lobster(the spinylobster lobsters,spiny ciiyfish, lobsters, crayfish, (theleaves wholeoror leftwhole leavesleft lettuce(the shells),lettuce theirshells), fromtheir madefrom made

buttered slicesof ofbuttered twoslices oftwo SAl'lDWICH - Foodstuff composed of Foodstuffcomposed SANDWICHbetween. bread substancebetween. edible substance withsorne some edible bread with countryside toto Frenchcountryside theFrench ItIthas customininthe thecustom long been beenthe haslong mealenclosed enclosed their meal for their meatfor give fieldsmeat thefields give workers workers inin the the allthe bread.InInall orblack black bread. between piecesof wholemealor ofwholemeal twopieces 6etween two people provide people wascustomary customarytotoprovide south-west districts itit was south-west districts porkoror journeywith mostlypork meat,mostly ofmeat, slicesof withslices setting outon onaajourney settingout pieces twopieces betweentwo veal, succulent juices,between theirsucculentjuices, withtheir veal,sprinkled sprinkledwith 803 803

SANGLER SANGLER

Sandwiches with loafbread and cheese Sandwiches with loaf bread and cheese

Presentationofofsandwiches sandwiches with withloaf lozfbread bread(Claire) Presentation (Claire)

shredded), corn salad (lamb's lettuce), hard-boiled eggs (the shredded), corn salad (Iamb's Jettuce), hard-boiled eggs (the eggs cut in slices or small dice), sweet peppers, poutargue eggs cut in slices or small dice), sweet peppers, poutargue (mullet roes), sardines or other preserved in oil or silt, fish preserved (muJlet roes), sardines or other fish in oil or salt, salmon, tomatoes (sliced with the seeds removed and soaked salmon, tomatoes (sliced with the seeds removed and soaked in salt to remove their moisture), trufles (raw truffies cut in in salt to remove their moisture), truffies (raw truffles cut in thin slices and seasoned). thin slices and seasoned). Sweet sandwiches. sANDwrcHs D'ENTREMETs - prepared D'ENTREMETS - Prepared Sweet sandwiches. SANDWICHS with thin slices of stale brioche or Genoa cake. They are stale brioche or Genoa cake. They are with thin slices of buttered or not, according to what is used for the filling. buttered or not, according to what is used for the filling. These sandwiches may be made with chopped up fruit, These sandwiches may be made with chopped up fruit, jam, thick custards, etc. jam, thick custards, etc. Toasted sandrvlches. sANDwrcHs AU pArN GRrrrf - prepared Toasted sandwiches. SANDWICHS AU PAIN GRILLÉ - Prepared with lightly toasted, sliced tin loaf, French bread or splifrols. with lightly toasted, sliced tin loaf, French bread or split rolls . The filling these sandwiches is the same as for untoasted The filling for for these sandwiches is the sa me as for untoasted bread. bread. Alsatian sandwiches. sANDwrcHs ArsAcrENs - Fill bread Alsatian sandwiches. SANDWICHS ALSACIENS - Fill bread spread with butter mixed with grated horseradish with spread with butter mixed with grated horseradish with Strasbourg sausage, peeled and cut in slices. Strasbourg sausage, peeled and cut in slices. Antibois sandwiches. sANDwrcHs ANTrBors - Fill slices of Antibois sandwiches. SANDWICHS ANTIBOIS - Fill slices of toasted bread spread with butter mixed with chopped toasted bread spread with butter mixed with chopped tarragon, with hard-boiled eggs, capers and chopped ghertarragon, with hard-boiled eggs, capers and chopped gherkins. kins. Basil sandwiches. s.LNnwrcHs AU BAsrLrc - Fill thin slices of Basil sandwiches. SANDWICHS AU BASILIC - Fill th in slices of toasted bread spread with butter to which chopped fresh basil toasted bread spread with butter to which chopped fresh basil has been added, with chopped hard-boiled eggs. has been added, with chopped hard-boiled eggs. Bookmaker's sandwiches. sANDwrcHs DU BooKMAKER _ Bookmaker's sandwiches. SANDWICHS DU BOOKMAKER Butter slices of bread. Fill with a l-cm. (*-inch) thick grilled Butter slices of bread. Fill with al-cm. (-t-inch) thick grilled steak, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread, when cold, steak, seasoned with salt and pepper, and spread, when cold, with English mustard. with English mustard. Dijon SANDWICHS DrJoNArs DIJONAIS -- Fill Fill slices slices of of Dijon sandwiches. sandwiches. serqowrcHs French bread spread with butter mixed with Dijon mustard, French bread spread with butter mixed with Dijon mustard, with with diced diced hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg and and parsley parsley ham ham (a (a regional regionaJ speciality of Dijon). speciality of Dijon). Foie gras sandwiches. sANDwcHs DE ForE GRAS Spread a Foie gras sandwiches. SANDWICHS DE FOIE GRAS -- Spread a slice of bread with a layer of foie gras. Cover with inother slice of bread with a layer of joie gras. Cover with another slice. slice. These These sandwiches sandwiches can can also also be be made made by by filling filling lightly Iightly buttered ofloaf Joafbread, bread,crusty crusty rolls roUs or orbrioche briochemixturl mixture buttered slices slicesof (bridge rolls truffled joiegras. gras. rolls (bridgerolls) rolls)with withslices slicesofoftruffiedfoie P6rigourdine sandwiches. sANDwrcHs A rlr pEnrcouRDrNE Périgourdine sandwiches. SANDWICHS À LA PÉRIGOURDINEFill slices of toasted bread spread with truffie purde with small Fill slices oftoasted bread spread with truffie purée with sm ail slices offoie gras. sUces of joie gras. Tartare Tartaresandwiches. sandwiches. sANDwrcHs SANDWICHS AÀr,c. LA ranrARE TARTARE -- Spread Spread slices of bread with a thick layer of minced raw beef mixed slices of bread with a thick layer of minced raw beef mixed with halfits its weight weight of of butter, butter, chopped chopped chives, chives, salt salt and and with half paprika. paprika . SANGLER SANGLER- - To Topack packice, ice,ororice iceand andsalt, salt,around aroundaamould mould

placed in inaawooden wooden receptacle, receptacle, in inorder orderto freezewater to freeze placed waterice iceor or ice cream cream mixtures. mixtures. ice

SANGRI -- StimuJating Stimulating beverage beverage obtained obtained by SANGRI mixing Madby mixing Madeira with with water, water, sugar sugar and and aa little grated nutmeg. little grated nutmeg. eira SANGRIA -- Spanish Spanish drink drink consisting consisting of SANGRIA of aa blend blend of of wine, wine, lemonade and and sometimes sometimes alcohol, alcohol, garnished garnished with lemonade with orange orange and and lemon slices. slices. lemon

SANGLINE -- A A dish dish known known under under this SANGUINE this name name in in some some districts of of France, France, notably notably Berry, Berry, isis called districts called sanquelle sanquette in in the the south-west. south-west. g. (4 (4 oz., Cook 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) chopped chopped white Cook white onions onions Iightly lightly in in butter. When they are are cooked cooked and golden in and golden our, pour into in col colour, pan of 2 chickens. Season, the pan the blood of2 Season, shake shake to to mix mii well well and and cook like a pancake. pancake. cook (Btood orange) -- Variety SANGUINE (Blood Variety of sweet SANGUINE sweet orange orange with red f1esh. flesh. red

SAI\SONNET -- Colloquial name for the starling, properly SANSONNET properly called called ttourneauinFrench, étourneau in French, considered considered edible edible and cooked cootea Iike tkl the the lark lark (q.v.). (q.v.). The The same same word word is used used in French French for a small mackerel. small mackerel. SAPID. SAPID. sepnn SAPIDE -- That That which which is savoury savoury and agreeably agreeably excites

the the sense sense oftaste. of taste.

SAPODILLI\ SAPODILLA or or NASEBERRY NASEBERRY PLUM. sAporrLLE SAPOTILLE - Name of of Malay Malay origin origin given given in in Java Java and and the the East East Indies Indies to a fruit which is called called sapotille. sapotille. Scientifically Scientifi~lly it is the which in in French French is Sapota Sapota achras.It achras. It is is about about as as large large as as a lemon. lemon. Its Its exterior exterior

colour colour isis greyish; greyish; the the flesh f1esh is is reddish-yellow, reddish-yellow, like like that that of of an an apricot. apricot. The The taste taste isis delicious delicious but but this this fruit fruit can can onlv only be be eaten eaten where where itit grows. grows.

SARACEN SARACEN CORN CORN (Buckwheat). (Buckwheat). smnmm SARRASIN - Herbaceous - Herbaceous plant, plant, sometimes sometirnes known known in in France France as as btt blé norr, noir, classed classed as as aa cereal. cereal. ItIt prefers prefers aa granitic granitic terrain terrain and and is is grown grown more more in in Brittany thanininany any other otherpart part of ofFrance. France. Brittanythan Unsuitable is used used for for porporUnsuitable for for making making bread, bread, its its grain grain is ridges, ridges,galettes galellesand and pancakes. pancakes. (See (See BUCKWHEAT.) BUCK WHEA T.)

SARDINESARDINE-Migratory Migratoryfish fishofofthe thefamily farnily Clupeidae,which Clupeidae, whichin in

some thenorth-west north-west of ofFrance Franceisiscalled ca lied cardeau cardeau sorneprovinces provincesofofthe and andharenguet, harenguet, and, and,atatBordeaux, Bordeaux,royan. royan. ItItisisfished fishedabundantly abundantlyininSardinia, Sardinia,from from which whichitittakes takesits its name. name. ItItisis also also fished fished along along the the coasts coasts of ofBrittany, Brittany, where where the the preservation of sardinesininoil oilisisdone doneon onaalarge largescale. scale. preservationofsardines Inlnthe theMediterranean Mediterraneanregion, region,particularly particuJarlybetween betweenMenton Menton 804 804

SARDINE SARDINE marketed marketed commercially commercially in in this this form. form. They They are are served served as as horshorscuvre. dd'œuvre. AU Sardines Sardines in in paper paper cases cases au au gratin. gratin. SARDINES SARDINES EN EN cAIssEs CAISSES AU cRATIN GRA TIN --'- Arrange Arrange fresh fresh sardines, sardines, stuffed stuffed and and cooked cooked in in white white wine wine (see (see below, below, Sardines Sardines with with white white wine) wine) in in paper paper cases cases (oiled (oiled and and dried dried in in the the oven). oven). Garnish Garnish with with I1 good good tablespoon tablespoon thick duxelles of ofthick duxelles (q.v.). (q.v.). and I1 Add Add 11 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons (l (1 to to 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) duxelles duxelles and sardines tablespoon tomato sauce sauce to to the the liquor liquor in in which which the the sardines tablespoon tomato this sauce were were cooked cooked and and spoon spoon some sorne of ofthis sauce over over them. them. and brown Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and melted melted butter butter and brown and arrange arrange on top lightly lightly in in the the oven. oven. Put Put chopped chopped parsley parsley on top and dish. on aa dish. the the paper paper cases cases on A nN CAISSES cussns À sARDINES EN I'italienne. SARDINES cases ià l'italienne. Sardines in Sardines in paper paper cases like Sardines Sardines fresh sardines sardines Iike cook fresh and cook L'ITALIENNE L'ITALIENNE -- Prepare Prepare and (see below). below). wine (see with white white wine rectangular in aa little little rectangular one in set each each one cooked set are cooked When When they they are in the the oven) oven) dried in (previously rubbed and dried with oil oil and rubbed with paper case case (previously paper good tablespoon chopped tablespoon chopped with 11 good garnished on the bottom bottom with on the garnished mushrooms. EN CAISSES cArssrs SARDINES EN portugaise. SARDINES la portugaise. paper cases cases ài la in paper Sardines in gratin, poRrucAISE -- Like paper cases au gratin, coses au in paper Llke Sardines Sardines in A LA u PORTUGAISE À (see FONDUE). FONDUE). Tomato with Toma the duxelles duxelles with replacing the fon&te (see 10 fondue place of in place of butter. butter. with oil oil in made with preparation can can be be made This preparation the remove the and remove heads and Take off offthe papillotes -* Take Sardines en papiUotes the heads grill and grill oil, season season and Brush with with oil, sardines. Brush fresh sardines. bones of large fresh lightly. Iightly. as way as prepared in in the the same same way paper prepared sheet of in aa sheet of paper Wrap each each in (see MULLET, RED), covering covering MULLET, RED), papillote (see mullet en en papillote for Red Reil mullet for duxelles. very truck thick duxelles. with very the fish with the and very hot hot oven oven and in aa very time in short time papillotes for for aa short Put the the papillotes Put serve at at once. once. serve large and fillet fillet large wipe and clean, wipe paupiettes -- Scale, Scale, c1ean, en paupiettes Sardines en Sardines sardines. fresh sardines. fresh using and using downwards, and skin downwards, the table, table, skin flat on on the the fiJlets fillets fiat Lay the Lay quenelle Fish Frsfr line of of quenelle pipe on thin line to each each aa tilln on to bag, pipe forcing bag, aa forcing very thick thickduxelles. (see FORCE or very FORCEMEATS) forcemeat MEATS) or duxelles. forcemeat (see put them in aa in rows rows in them in paupiettes, and and put the fillets fillets en en paupiettes, Roll up up the Roll wine, mushroom mushroom white wine, little white Pour over over aa little sautd dish. dish. Pour buttered sauté buttered gently, covered, for 88 juice or covered, for very gently, cook very stock, and and cook fish stock, or fish juice minutes. minutes. (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce (see wineor or other other sauce White wine with White Serve with Serve withsalt, salt, on onaa seasoned with sardines, seasoned plat -- Put Put the thesardines, auplat Sardines au Sardines with sprinkled with been sprinkled has been which has dish willch fireproof dish buttered fireproof buttered tablespoons (5(5 for 12 12sardines, sardines, 44tablespoons Pour over, over, foT shallot. Pour choppedshallot. chopped with Dotwith little lemonjuice. lemon juice. Dot wine and and aalittle dry wrute whitewine tablespoons) dry tablespoons)

Sardine

and Marseilles, Marseilles, the the sardines sardines fished fished are are extremely extremely delicate delicate and and are eaten eaten fresh; fresh; they they cannot cannot be sent long long distances distances without are deterioration. deterioration. Thus the the fish fish is is known known slightly slightly salted, salted, or or completely Thus preserved in brine or, its most frequent form, tinned in oil. preserved hors-d uuvre. Conserved in oil oil or or salt, sardine is served served as hors-d'œuvre. salt, the sardine Conserved sardines unless The recipes recipes which which follow are are for for fresh fresh sardines The can be fresh herring otherwise stated. stated. In In U.S.A. U.S.A. young young fresh herring can otherwise sardine. substituted for the European sardine. l'anglaise -- Open fresh sardines and take out the Sardines ià I'anglaise Sardines fry and fry sardines with egg and breadcrumbs and bones. Coat the sardines Maitre half-melted Maître with half-melted them in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Cover Cover with them d'hôtel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). dh\tel sardines. Sardines ài l'antiboise the heads of fresh sardines. Take off offthe I'antiboise -- Take with egg and Open the fish and take out the backbones. backbones. Coat with oil. breadcrumbs and fry in olive oiL the Garnish the crown. Garnish form of aa crown. Arrange in the the form dish in Arrange on on aa dish (see FONDUE) FONDUE) middle of with Tomato Tomato fondue dish with middle of the the dish fondue (see seasoned little garlic. seasoned with aa !iUle (Provengal cookery). cookery). Bouillabaisse sardines (Provençal of sardines Bouillabaisse of wipe wash and and wipe BOUILLABAISSE clean, wash Scale, clean, DE SARDINES sARDINEs -- Scale, BouILLABAIssE DE 500 (18 oz.) sardines. g. (18 fresh sardines. oz.) large fresh 500 g. (scant * cup) oil, tablesoil, 22 tablesCook tablespoons (scant in 33 tablespoons Cook lightly in "op)1I tablespoon tablespoon poons ion and (3 tablespoons) and onion poons (3 chopped on tablespoons) chopped chopped leek. chopped leek. crushed tomatoes, 22 crushed Add peeled, seeded and chopped chopped tomatoes, seeded and Add 22 peeled, leaf' cloves pepper, thyme, half aa bay bay leaf, thyme, half salt, pepper, garlic, aa pinch pinch of of salt, of garlic, cloves of aa little rind. piece of orange rind. of bitter bitter orange small piece fennel and and aa small little fennel (Il oz., g. (II oz',2 Pour 2 pints) water, 300 g. (l+ pints, pints, li water, add add 300 lj pints) Pour in in 77 dl. dl. (Ii on scant cooking on begin cooking slices, and and begin potatoes cut in thick thick slices, cut in cups) potatoes scant cups) good good heat. heat. potatoes are are threethreeAdd the potaloes when the pinch of and when saffron, and of saffron, Add aa pinch pan and the pan and quarters top. Cover Cover the put the on top. the sardines sardines on quarters cooked, cooked, put cook minutes. to 10 l0 minutes. for 88 to cook briskly briskly for Drain dish. them on on aadish. potatoes and set lhem and set and potatoes the sardines sardines and Drain the Sprinkle parsley. chopped parsley. with chopped Sprinkle with Pour thick dozen thick with 1I dozen dish lined lined with into another another dish Pour the the broth broth into slices with chopped chopped too, with this, too, Sprinkle this, bread. Sprinkle of French French bread. slices of parsley. parsley. Serve dishes together. together. both dishes Serve both Sardine oz) 75g.g.(3Qoz.) Pound 75 DESARDINES sARDINEs -- Pound BEURREDE butter. BEURRE Sardine butter. (aoz., Rub fiI1ets cup)butter. butter. Rub oz.,i I cup) 100g.g.(4 Add 100 in oil. oil. Add sardines in fillets of of sardines through fine seive. seive. through aafine Use hollow fried hollow canapts,fried forcanapés, hotfor hors-d'euvre, hot coldfor for hors-d'œuvre, Usecold crusts pastrycases. cases. crusts and and pastry pnnrolsAUXsARDINrsDartois of sardines. AUX SARDINES - Like tois of of LikeDar Dartois sardines. DARTOIS Dartoisof anchovies (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, ho r s - d' c uvre'1 H o thors-d'œuvre). HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot ancho v ie s(see Fried smelts likeFried Friedsmelts Cookedlike FRITEs- - Cooked sARDINEs FRITES sardines.SARDINES Fried sardines. (see (seeSMELT). SMELT). GriUed sardines freshsardines Brushfresh cmlrfns - - Brush sARDINESGRILLÉES sardines.SARDINES Grilled sardines. with heat. grillatatmoderate moderate heat. thegrill Cookunder under the them.Cook withoiL oil.Season Season them. Serve (seeBUTTER, Compound BUTTER,Compound butter(see d h\telbutter withMaître Maitre d'hôtel Servewith butters). butters). Sardines found arefound Sardinesare L'suILE- - Sardines sARDINEsÀAL'HUILE oil.SARDINES Sardines ininoH.

i

(/Vicolas) sardinesininoi!oil(Nicolas) Tinnedsardines Tinned

805 80s

SARDINE SARDINE

AAbrown Robert Carrier\ brownsauce sauce( (Robert Carrier)

little pieces of butter. Cook in the oven at a good heat for g to !ittle pieces of butter. Cook in the oven at a good heat for 8 to 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. 10 minutes. Sprinkle with parsley. Saltd sardines (preserved). slrEes proceed. Salted sardines (preserved). sARDTNES SARDINES SALÉES -- Proceed, using fresh sardines, as described in the recipe for preserved using fresh sardines, as described in the recipe for Preserved

1

anchovie s (see

Sardines Sardineswith witbwhite whitewine wine(stuffed). (stuffed).sanowns SARDINESlu AUvrN VINBLANc BLANC Scale, Scale,clean cleanand and bone bone 12large 12 largefresh fresh sardines. sardines.

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Stuffthem Stuffthemwith withaasmall smallquantity quantity ofofquenelle quenelleFishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). Press Press lightly lightly to to stick stick them them together together and and set set in in aa buttered buttered baking baking dish. dish. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Pour Pour over over I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant j t cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Start St artcooking cookingon ontop topof ofthe thestove, st ove,then thenpui putininihe theoven oven for for88to tol010minutes. minutes. Drain Drainthe thesardines sardines and and arrange arrange them them on on aa dish. dish. Add Add the the strained strained cooking cooking liquor liquor to to White White wine wine sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) SAUCE)

ANCHOVY).

anchovies (see ANCHOVY). Sardines with spinach d la provengale. snnorNEs AUx Sardines with spinach à la provençaJe. SARDINES AUX Epwmos A ra pnovrNeAlE - Clean and bone fresh sardines, ÉPINARDS À LA PROVENÇALE - Clean and bone fresh sardines, coat with egg and breadcrumbs, and fry in butter. Arrange on 1 coat with egg and breadcrum bs, and fry in butter. Arrange on leaf spinach tossed in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, bomleaf spinach tossed in Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) and seasoned with grated garlic. pound butters) and seasoned with grated garlic. 1

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806 806

SAUCE SAUCE

1 1

land justbefore beforeserving servingpour pouraafew fewtablespoons tablespoonsofthe of thesauce sauce andjust loverthe thesardines. sardines. over SARGASSE - Seaweed Seaweedeaten eatenininSpain Spainininthe theform form ISARGASSO.sARGAssESARGA$SO. ,ofaasalad. salado of ISASSENAGE - Principal Principal town town of of the the canton canton of of Isdre, Isère, SASSENAGE Iramous for its grottoes in which its celebrated cheese is made. made' is cheese its celebrated which in grottoes its famous for CHEESE, Sassenage.) '(SeeCHEE (See SE, S as s enage.)

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1 SATYRION - Orchid with a goat-like smell whose whose tubers tubers SATYRION - Orchid with a goat-like smell 1contain an edi ble, fioury su bstanceanalogous to salep' salep. an edible, floury substance analogousto contain

SAUCE - Liquid Liquid seasoning seasoningfor for food. food. SAUCE - as sauces Classed in the French cuisine are many preparaClassed as sauces in the French caisine are many preparaI tions quite different from each other, other, not not only only in in their their taste^ taste tions quite different from each and appearance but in the way they are made; the juices of juices of the made; are they way in the but appearance and roasted meats; vinaigrette and its derivatives, hollandaise, roasted meats; vinaigrette and its derivatives, hollandaise, mayonnaise, béarnaise; stock thickened with flour, withfécule mayonnaise, bi arnaise ;stock thickened with fl our, vithf6 cule (Iike potato potato or orcornflour), cornflour), with with blood, blood, etc. etc. (like the nineteenth nineteenth century, century, Car6me Carême At the beginning of tne begnning of the Af included among among his his sauces sauces espagnole, espagnole, allemande, allemande, supr€me, suprême, included tarragon, ravigote, vert-pré, béchamel, financière, Périgueux, tarragont r avigote, ver t-pr6, bachanel, financibre, P ariguanx, tortue, matelote, matelote, Champagne' Champagne, sauce sauce dà Ia la r6gence, régence, bourguigbourguigtortui, (roebuck), aigre'daux aigre-doux nonne, sturgeon, poivrade, poivrade, chevranil chevreuil (roebuck), sturgeon, ,ron (sweet-sour), piquante, salmis, tomato, leveret thickened with ", piqu-ante, salmis, tomato, leveret thickened with (sweet-sourl 1 blood, parisienne, Robert, raifort (horseradish), (horseractish), magnonaise magnonaise blood, parisienie, Robert, raifort 1 (Carême thus designated mayonnaise), provençale, crayfish (Car6me thus designated mayonnu*), provengale, crayfish butter, lobster, shrimp, oyster, oyster, anchovy it sauce à creatn, sauce buttet, cream, anchovy butter, Iobster, shr{mp, iuttrr, la pluche, butter or or bdtarde, bâtarde, and caper. caper. and la pluche, butter 1 Today the French cuJinary repertory includes almost 200 Today the French culinary repertory includes almost 200 recipes for sauces, brown and white, hot and cold (not recipes for sauces, brown and white, hot and cold inc1uding variations). It is in this order that they will be inctuding variations). It is in this order that they will be described, beginning with the basic, or great sauces, brown described, beginning with the basic, or grcat sauces, brown and white, followed by compound sauces, brown and white. and white, followedby compound sauces, brown and white' Cold sauces and dessert sauces will be found at the end of this sauces and dessert sauces will be found at the end of this cold section. 1

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section.

BASIC or GREAT SAUCES. GRANDES IvdREs' GRANDES sAUcHt MÈRES, BASIC or GREAT SAUCES. SAUCES used in the SAUCES - These are so called because they are sAUcEs - These are so called because they are used in the preparation of many other sauces. preparation of manY other sauces. BROWN BASIC SAUCES. SAUCES BRUNESBROWN BASIC SAUCES. sAUcEs BRUNES Demi-glace or rich brown sauce. DEMI-GLACE - Boil down by DEMI-GLAcE sauce. Demi-glace or rich brown - Boil down by two-thirds 5 dl. (seant pint, 2! eups) Espagnole sauce (see 5 dl. (scant pint, 2{ cups) Espagnole sauce (see two-thirds below) to which 8 dl. (generous 1t pints, 1i pints) cIear brown below) to which 8 dl. (generous l{ pints, lf pints) cf9a1b19w.1 stock have been added. Remove from dl' (3(3 add t* dl. heat,add from heat, Remove added. have been stock tablespoons, seant * cup) Madeira. Strain. Strain. Madeira. tablespoons, scant I cup) A handfuJ of mushroom skins during added during may be be added A handful of mushroom skins may cooking. cooking. Espagnole sauce 1 (based on meat stock). SAUCE ESPAGNOLE Espagnole sauce I Oased on meat stock). sAUcE ESPAGNoLE

pints, 5f (cnlsse) (GRASSE)-- To Tomake make2f 2tlitres litres($ (4-tpints, 51pints) pints)sauce saucemake makeaa 50 1. rouxusing using l5O 150e.g. (51oz oz,scant seanti-cup) i cup)butter butterand and I 150 g. (5* (5t oz', oz., ,ozx seant li Iups) cups) floui flour and and add add 44 litres.(3* litres (3-t quartl'-4i quarts, 4-t quarts) quarts) scant warm,liglrt Iightbrown brownstock. stock. Mix Mixand and boil boil over over aa brisk brisk heat' heat. warm, Make aa mirepoix mirepoix of,100 onoo g: g~ (4 (4 oz',3 oz., -t cup) cup) Reduce the the heat. heat. Make nduce carrot and'100 and 100g: g, (4 (4 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) onion onion cut eut in in dice dice and and lightly lightly carrot oz., generous generous*i cup) cup) diced diced lean lean bacon' bacon. fried, with with 75 75g.g. Q(3 oz., fried, Pour off off thi the bacon bacon fat, fat, dilute dilute the the pan pan juices juices with'l with ··1 dl' dl. (6 (6 Pour tablespoons, scant seant 1 cop) cup) white white wine wine and and add add to to the the sarce' sauce, tablespoons, together with with aa sprig sprig of ofthyme thyme and and half half aa bay bay leaf' leaf. together Cook the espagnole espagnole very gently gently for for 2l 2-t hours, hours, skimming skimming book the vegetables vegetables well weIl to to extract extract their their frequently. Strainl Strain, pressing pressingthe frequently. juicl. juice. puiUack Put back in in aa pan pan and and add add 66 to to 88 dl. dl. (1 (l pint,2|cups pint, 21 cups to to generous l4 It Pints, pints, lili Pints) pints) stock' stock. senerous Cook for Z4 2-t houri, hours, skimming frequently. frequently. Strain Strain into into aa Cook basin. Stirwith Stir with aa wooden wooden spoon spoon until until it iscoldis cold. basin. Next day day put the espagnole back back to cook again, ad{ing^l adding 1 Next 2* litre (scant (li pints^, pints, generous generous quart) quart) stock stock and j-t litre (seant pint' pint, 2* litre (lf litre tomato puree. purée. cups) tomato cups) to so as as to I hour, skim often, so cook very slowly for 1 Mix well, weil, cook Mix grease, strain strain all grease, Remove all sau@. Remove textured sauce. obtain a brilliant texiured the in the instructions in the instructions muslin. Use Use according to to the through muslin. particuJar reciPe. reeipe. particular ESPAGNoLE sAUcE ESPAGNOLE Espagnole sauce fi II (based on fish stock). SAUCE Espagpole (4| pints, 5-t 5i pints) sauce: (MAIGRE) -- For 2-t 2| litres (41 1r-c*) meat the meat espagnole, replacing the the ordinary espagnole, Proceed as foithe as for of instead of mirepoix in butter instead stock fry the themirepoixin stock with fish stock, and fry skins' mushroom skins. lard. Add 150 g. cups) mushroom g. (5 oz., oz., 55 cups) Finish off as for the ordinary espagnole. ordinary espagnole. offas (lu roulrn (AU sAUcE TOMATE stock). SAUCE Tomato meat stock). (brsed on on meat sauce 1I (based Tomato sauce gleat to aa great GRAS) as accompaniment accompaniment to use as its use from its Apart from cnls) - Apart auxiliary an auxiliary as an used as number sauce isis used tomato sauce dishes, tomato of dishes, number of touch final touch the final adds the preparations. ItIt adds ingredient numerous preparations. in numerous ingredient in to ragofits. and ragoûts. sauces and most brown brown sauces to most pints) sauce: sauce: For (4| pints, pints, 5-t 5| pints) 2f litres litres (4-t For 21 puree of tomatoes' of tomatoes, pints) purée (3* pints, pints, 4-t 4| pints) Ingredients. 2 litres (31 Ingreiients.2litres (4oz., oz', -ti cup) 100 g.g: (4 or tomatoes; 100 pressed fresh fresh tomatoes; lb) pressed kg. (6-!or 33 kg. 16! lb.) 9"pl of knuckle of (5oz.) blanched knuckle lean oz.) blanched 150g.g.(5 ba"oo, 150 diced bacon, tean blanched biancfed diced (4oz., oz', 1t cup) 100 g.gr(4 ham, ~ cup) carrot, 100 (4 oz., dicedcarrot, g: (4 cop) diced o2.,3 100 g. ham, 100 99n) garlic, 50 50-g.. ofgarlic, clove of diced bouquet garni, g. garnr, 1I unpeeled unpeeled clove onion, aabouqiet diced onion, flour; 1010.g'.(li cup)flour; (2 g. (It o;, i Zcup) is g.g. (3(r oz., butier, 75 cup) butter, 12oz., * cup) pinchof of sugar, aapinch teaspoons) i oz., I-t tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, oz.,l| 20g.g.* salt,20 ieaspooirs) salt, stock' quart) white pepper; 1I litre (lÎ: pints, whitestock. generousquart) (lt pints,generous pepper; litre -Method. heavyMethod. Cook butterininaaheavylightly inin butter baconlightly the bacon Cook the they urtilthey themuntil bottomed cookthem andcook vegetablesand pan.Add the vegetables Addthe bottomed pan. flo-ur tillthe th9fiour are togethertill Cooktogether flour.Cook with fiour. quitesoft. Sptittttewith toft. Sprinkle arequite (orthe puree(or the^ colours, tomatopurée thetomato Addthe much.Add toomuch. nottoo butnot coloirs, but of cloveof Addthe theclove quarters).Add fresh cutininquarters). pressed and andeut tomatoes, pressed freshtomatoes,

(t

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fii

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oz'l

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Spooo, spalula and ladle used in making sauces and ladle used in naking sauoes Spoon, spatula

which keep sauces Baio-maries in in keep sauccs which10to Bain-maries

807 807

SAUCE SAUCE gallig, the bouquet garni, the ham knuckle and liquid. Season. the to bouquet garni, the ham knuckle and liquid. Season. Bring the boil, stirring. Cover the pan and- cook in the Bnng to the boil, stirring. Coyer the pan and cook in the oven at low heat for 2 hours. oyen at low heat for 2 hours. Take out the bouquet garni, the garlic and the knuckle of Take out the bouquet garni, the garlic and the knuckle of ham. ham. Strain the purie through a cloth, pressing it with a spatula, purée through a cloth, pressing it with a spatula, put it the orStra~n through a fine strainer. pour into a basin and whisk or put It through a fine strainer. Pour into a basin and wrusk to make the sauce as smooth as possible. Butter the surface to make the sauce as smooth as possible. Butter the surface to toprevent a skin forming. prevent a skin forming. Keep in a very cool place. Use as instructed. Keep in a very cool place. Use as instructed. Tomato sauce II (meafless). sAUcE TOMATE (,ru ueronE) _ Tomato II (me~tless). SAUCE TOMATE (AU MAIGRE) Proceed as~auce in the preceding recipe, leaving out the bacon and Proceed as III the precedmg recipe, leaving out the bacon and ham knuckle and using water instead of stock. ham knuckle and using water instead ofstock. Tomato sauce rrr (coulis de tomate). sAUcE TOMATE AU Tomato sauce nI (coulis de tomate). SAUCE TOMATE AU NATUREL, couI.n DE ToMATE _ Cook gently in butter a NATUREL, COULIS DE TOMATE - Cook gently in butter a mirepoix composed of 50 g. (2 oz.,* c.rp) shredded carrots mirepoixg.composed of 50 g. (2 oz., ~ cup) shredded carrots (2 oz., * cup) shredded onion. Add l+ kg. (3f lb.) 1nd-50 and 50 g. (2 oz., 1 cup) shredded onion. Add 11 kg. lb.) fresh tomatoes, pressed and cut in quarters. Season wiitisalt, fr~sh tomatoes, pressed and cut in quarters. Season with salt, a little sugar and a pinch of pepper. Add a small bouquet garni a(q.v.). httle su~ar and a pinch of pepper. Add a small bouquet garni Stir over good heat to blend the ingredients. When the (q.v.). SUr over good heat to blend the ingredients. When the mixture comes to the boil, cover the pot and cook in a slow mixture cornes to the boil, coyer the pot and cook in a slow oven. Put through a fine strainer. Boil down over strong heat ove~. Put through a,tlne strainer. Boil down over strong heat until the sauce thickens to the right consistency. Use unui the sauce thlckens to the right consistency. Use according to instructions. according to instructions. Tomato sauce, and coulis of tomatoes, can be made with Tomato sauce, and coulis of tomatoes, can be made with tinned tomato purde. tinned tomato purée. garli~,

(3±

WHITE BASIC SAUCES. sAUcEs BLANcHEsWHITE BASIC SAUCES. SAUCES BLANCHESNlemande sruce This sauce is often wrongly included Allemande sauce -- This sauce is often wrongly included among 'basic' sauces. Allemande,which in spite ofits name is among 'basic' sauces. Allemande, which in spite of its name is entirely French in origin, is a compound siuce. (See below, entirely French in origin, is a compound sauce. (See below, compound sauces.) compound sauces.) B6chamel sauce. sAUcE BfcnaMsr - In modern practice this Béc~amel sauce. SAUCE BÉCHAMEL - In modern practice trus sauce is prepared quite differently from the way it used to be sauce IS prepared quite differently from the way it used to be made. Formerly btchamel was a velout| sauce with cream made. Formerly béchamel was a velouté sauce with cream blended into it, whereas nowadays it is made by stirring blended into it, whereas nowadays it is made by stirring boiling milk into a roux of butter and flour. boiling milk into a roux of butter and fiour. B6chamel sauce f @ased on meat stock). sAUcE sEcHlr"fir Béchamel sauce 1 (based 00 meat stock). SAUCE BÉCHAMEL cRAssE - For 2| litres (4j pints, 5j pints) stir 2f; litres (scant 5 GRASSE - For 21 litres (4~ pints, 51 pints) stir 2;i litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pints) boiling milk into a white roux made of 150 g. (5 pints, 6 pints) boiling milk into a white roux made of 150 g. (5 oz., generous j cup) butter and 150 g. (5 oz., l{ cups) ffoui. oz:' generous ~ cup) butter and 150 g. (5 oz., 1t cups) fIour. Mix well. Add 150 g. (5 oz.) lean veal cut into dice, cooked in MlX weil. Add ISO g. (5 oz.) lean veal cut into dice, cooked in butter without colouring with 50 g. (2 oz., * bu~ter without colouring with 50 g. (2 oz., ~ cup) chopped "up) chopped onion. Season, add a sprig of thyme, a fragment omon. Season, add a sprig of thyme, a fragment of of bay bay ieaf leaf and a little grated nutmeg. Simmer very gently for 45 minutes and a httle grated nutmeg. Sim mer very gently for 45 minutes to I hour. Strain through a cloth. to 1 hour. Strain through a clotho Bechamel sauce II (meafless). saucs sfcHnr,m urucnn _ As Béchamel sauce II (meatless). SAUCE BÉCHAMEL MAIGRE- As above, leaving out the veal. above, leaving out the veaJ. SuprGme sauce. sAUcE supn$w - The same applies here as Suprême sauce. SAUCE SUPIŒME - The same applies here as to Allemande sauce. Suprhme sauceis a combined sauce. the to Allemande sauce. Suprême sauce is a combined sauce the recipe for which will be found belowo under Compound recipe for wruch will be found below, under Comp~und sauces. sauces. Velout6 sauce. vnl,our6, sAUcE BLANcHE GRAssE For Z|1 Velouté sauce. VELOUTÉ, SAUCE BLANCHE GRASSE -- For 2 litres (4t pints, 5{ pints) stir 2f, litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pintsj litr~s (4~ pints, 51 pints) stir 2i litres (scant 5 pints, 6 pints) white stock made with veal or chicken (see STO-CK) into pali wrute stock made with veal or chicken (see STOCK) into pale blond roux made with 150 g. (5 oz., generous 1".rp) butter blond roux made with 150 g. (5 oz., generous ~ cup) butter and'150 g. (5 oz., lf cups) flour. and'I50 g. (5 oz., li cups) fiour. Blend well together. Bring to the boil, stirring with a Blend weil together. Bring to the boil, stirring with a wooden spoon until the first bubbles appear. Cook the wood en spoon until the first bubbles appear. Cook the vgloutt very slowly for l j hours, skimming frequently. Strain velouté very slowly for I~ hours, skimming freq uently. Strain through a cloth. Stir until it is completely cold. through a clotho Stir until it is completely cold. great .Velout| Veloutéisis aa great basic basicsauce, sauce, and and itit may may be beprepared prepared inin advance. It may also be made just before lt ii required. advance. It may also be madejust before it is required. As the white stock As the white stock used used for for making making itit isis siasoned seasoned and and flavoured, it is not necessary to add olher flavourings. An fiavou~ed, .it is not necessary to add other flavourings. An exception is made for skins and trimmings of mushfooms, exc~ptlOn IS made for skins and trimmings of mushrooms, which may be added when available, this addition making the wruch may be added when available, this addition making the sauce yet more delicate. sauce yet more delicate.

Velout6sauce sauceIIIf(based chickenstock). stock).VELOUTÉ vruourfDEor @ased00onchickeo Velouté Madelike likeordinary ordinaryVelouté Veloutisauce, santce)using -Made usingwhite white chickenstock stocktotostir stirinto intothe theblond blondroux, roux. chlcken Velout6s~uce (basedon sauceID III(based porssoN, onfish fishstock). stock).VELOUTÉ vsrourEDEDEPOISSON, Velouté otrV~LOUTE vnrourEMAIGRE MATGRE- -Made Madelike likeordinary ordinaryVelouté Veloutisauce, santce, DIT replacingthe theveal vealororcrucken chickenstock stockwith withfish fishstock. stock. replacmg VoLATLLEVO.LAlLLE

COMPOUNDBROWN BROWNSAUCES. SAUCES.SAUCES sAUcEsCOMPOSÉES, coMposf,B\, COMPOUND _

BRUNES BRUNES-

African sauce (forsmalJ sauce(for smallcuts cutsofofmeat, pot-roasted chickeo). meat,pot-roasted chicken). Africao sAUcEA~RICAINE AFRTcATNE - -Cook Cookininoil oiltill tillsoft soft100 100g.g;(4(4oz., oz.,l cup) S~UCE 1 cup) dicedomons, onions,then thenadd add22tomatoes tomatoes peeled, peeled,drained driinedand andcut cutinin dlced dice,and greenpeppers, and22green peeledand andalso cutinindice. alsocut dice.Season peppers, peeled dice, Season withsalt, paprika, aasmall salt, paprika, smallclove cloveofofgrated gratedgarlic, garlic,and anda a with bouquet garni, composedof parsley,thyme, ofparsley, thyme,bay biyleaf leafand bouquet garni, composed andaa pour inin 1I dl. sprig of of basil. basil.Cook Cookfor for 10l0 minutes. minutes. Pour dl.(6(6 sprig tablespoons, scant scant ~+cup) cup) white whitewine, wine.Boil Boildown. down.Add Add22dl. dl.(t(+ t~blespoons, pint, scant scantcup) cup)concentrated concentrated and andthickened thickenedbrown brownveal pmt, veai stock.Cook Cook for for'15 minutes. 15 minutes, stock. Aigre.douce sauce (forsmall sauce(for small cuts cutsof ofmeat, meafwhite white giblets). giblets). Aigre-douce sAUcE AIGRE-DOUCEArcRE-ooucn - Caramelise Caramelise lightly lightlyininaasm small SAUCE aIl saucepan saucepan33 Iumps.of sugar moistened moistened with with 33 tablespoons (scant o1cup) tablespoons (scant lumps .of sugar ..rp) wine vmegar. vinegar. Pour Pour in in I~lj dl. pint, ~3cup) dl. (i$ pint, cup)white white wine. wme wine.Add Add 1i pour inin2~ tablespoon chopped chopped shallots. shallots. Boil Boil down. down. Pour (scant 2j dl. tabl~spoon dl.(scant prnt, generous generous cup) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce. Boil for sauce. Boil !i pmt, for aa few few moments and and strain strain through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Boil; Boil;add moments add 22 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) stoned stoned raisins raisins which which have tablespoons have been been soaked in in cold cold water, water, and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon capers. capers. soaked Alboni sauce, sauce, for for venisoo (English cookery). venison (English cookery). SAUCE sAUcE ALBONIA1boni ALBoNT _ Boil do~n down by by t~o-trurds two-thirds 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant ~* cup) Bo~1 ^oi ".rp) white wme wine to to WhlCh which 11 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopp-d shallot, white sprig of shallot, au,prig thy1g, aa piece piece of of bay bay leaf, leaf, aa sprig sprig of parsley and of parsley pinch of and aa pinch thyme, of paprika have have been been added. added. paprika Pour in 2 dl. (f pint, scant cup) Demi-glace sauce (see sauce (see _ Pour in 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) Demi-glace above) and and22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) concentrated above) concentrated game game stock. Add juniper berries. Add 10 l0 crushed crushed juniper berries. Boil Boil for stock. for ai few fe* moments, strain, strain, and add add 1 tablespoon tablespoon redcurrantjelly redcurrant jelly and moments, and 1I tablespoon pine kernels browned in the oyen. oven. tablespoon pine kemels Aniseed sauce (for roast sauce (for roast venison). SAUCE sAUcE À Aniseed A L'ANIS L'aNrs -_ Cook 22 large lumps of of sugar and and 33 tablespoons (scant { cup) I~rge lumps tablespoons (scant cup) wine vinegar caramel. Add vlO~gar to ~o aa caramel. Add 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant ,"arri ~* cup) white green anise. anise. Boil, white wine wme and and 1I teaspoon green Boil, strain, strain, boil Uoii again, ag,ain, and and boil down by two-thirds. two-trurds. Add 3 dl. @pint, (~pint, 1 cups) lficups) thickened thlckened brown brown veal veal stock. stock. Boil for for a a few few moments and strain. strain. .Take Bigarade Bigarade sauce sauce I1 (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE A À r.c. LA slcAReon BIGARADE _ - 'Take off bottom the peel off in in strips strips from frol? top top to .bottom peel of of a bitter orange; take take care care to to cut cut itIt very very thin thm so so that that there there will be no no white white pilh. pith.

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How Howtotoreduce reduceaasauq(Larousse') sauce (Larousse)

808 808

SAUCE SAUCE and 3 to 4 smooth smooth Espagnole sauce sauce to to sauce sauce an an entrbe, en/rée,j and 3 to 4 glass Sauttablespooni tablespoons lfuht veal veal stock. stock. Boil Boil down, down, add add glass Sautreaches the right ernes, ernes, still still simmering. simmering. When When the the sauce sauce the right little butter and consistency; Justbefore beforeserving, serving,add add aa little butter and consistency,strain. strain.Just

Cut Cutevenly evenlyininfine fineshreds, shreds,and andthrow throwinto intoboiling boiJingwater. water. After After boiling for for aa few few minutes minutes drain drain and and put put in in aa saucepan saucepan with with smooth Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce to to sauce sauce an an entrie, enlrée, aa very smooth enough very little game glaze, glaze, apinch a pinchof ofmignonette mignonetteand andthe thejuice juiceof ofhalf halfaa littlegame bitter orange. orange. After After having having brought brought itit to to the the boil boil several several bitter times, add aapiece of offine finebutter'. butter'. (Car€me' (Carême, L'Art L'Arlde de lalacuisine cuisine times, add française au auXIXe sibcle.) siècle.) frangaise Bigarade Bigarade sauce sauce If il (for (for duck duck or or duckling, duclding, roasted roasted or or potpotroasted). SAUCE BIGARADE BIGARADE -- Dilute Dilute the the thick thick juices juices in in the the roasted). sAUcE way: roasting roasting pan pan with with aa stock stock prepared prepared in in the the following following way: cook to to aa pale pale caramel caramel 25 25 g. (l (1 oz., oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar sugar cook soaked soaked in in 11tablespoon tablespoon wine wine vinegar. When When the the sugar begins begins to change colour, colour, pour in in 22 dl. dl. (+ (1 pint, scant scant cup) brown veal veal to change stock. Pour this this mixture into into the the roasting roasting pan pan and blend blend with with stock. Pour juices. the thejuices. Cook Cook for for 55 minutes minutes over over strong strong heat. heat. Add Add the the juice juice of of an an orange orange and and aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon lemon juice juice and and strain. strain. Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) orange orange peel peel which which has has been been cold water, water, drained drained and and cut cut in in aa fine fine blanched, cooled cooled in in cold blanched. julienne. julienne. gs d Ducks Ducks and and ducklin ducklings à la la bigarade bigarade are are garnished garnished with with quarters quarters ofpeeled of peeled and and seeded seeded oranges' oranges. They They are are surrounded surrounded with a border border of of half half slices slices of of oranges, oranges, cut with with fluted-edged f1uted-edged *ittr cutters. cutters. canbe Bigarade Bigarade sauce can be flavoured with with aa very very small small quantity quantity of curagao, added at the last Iast moment' moment. julienne One-third lemon peel peel cut cut in in a a fine fine julienne is is sometimes sometimes of orange added tothe to the julienne julienne of orange peel. peel. duck is III. sAUcE Bigarade sauce In. SAUCE BIGARADE BIGARADE - When When the the duck is glass juices in the roasting I glass cooked, dilute dilute the thick thickjuices roasting pan pan with with 1 (+ pint, cup) white l+ dl' Pour in down. Pour white wine. Boil in lt dl. (i pint, J cup) white Boil down. with 1I 5 minutes. or consommé. consommd. Boil stock or Boil for for 5 minutes. Thicken with stock water. cold water. with cold arrowroot blended flour or arrowroot teaspoon potato fIour teaspoon blended with juice. lemon juice. juice of of lemon squeeze of and aa squeeze an orange and of an the juiee Add the Add peel. orange peel. aiulienne of orange with ajulienne finish with Strain and fimsh pan the thick thick pan Dilute the BIGARADE -- Dilute sAUcE BIGARADE Bigarade sauce IV. SAUCE Bigarade or port. Madeira or juicei with 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant j cup) Madeira dl. (6 juices Boil down stock. Boil (+ pint, scant cup) brown veal stock. scant cup) dl. (1 in 2 dl. Pour in corn or corn arrowroot or teaspoon arrowroot with 1I teaspoon one-third, thicken with by by one-third, to and bring bring to vinegar, and wine vinegar, of wine few drops drops of with aa few mixed with starch siarch mixed lemon juice of of lemon squeeze of and aa squeeze an orange orange and of an Add the the juice the the boil. boil. Add peel cut in aafrneiulienne. juice, strain, cut in orange peel strain, add add orange juice, fine julienne. BoNNEFoY s.l'ucn BONNEFOY fish). SAUCE (for meat meat and and grilld fish). sauce (for Bonnefoy Bonnefoy sauce wine. white wine. use white sauce 1 but use Bordelaise sauce as for for Bordelaise Proceed as -- Proceed shallot chopped shallot flnely chopped with finely made with be made can also also be sauce can This sauce This unstrained. and used used unstrained. and BoRDELATSE -(for grilled sAUcE BORDELAISE grilled meat). meat). SAUCE sauce 1I (for Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise with wine with red wine cup) red (} pint, pint, seant scant cup) dl. (1 two-thirds 22 dl. down by by two-thirds Boil down Boil piece ofbay of bay of thyme, aa piece sprig ofthyme, shallot, aa sprig 1I tablespoon chopped shallot, leaf and a pinch of salt. (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce pint, scant cttp) Demi-glace scantcup) Pour in 2 dl. (1-(+ pint, add25 heat,add from heat, remove one-third, rem by one-third, Boil down down by ove from 25 g.g. above). above). Boil strain. and strain. butter and tablespoons) butter o2.,2 (1(l oz., 2 tablespoons) poached and and in dice, dice, poached cut in marrow cut beef marrow oz.) beef 25 g. (1(l oz.) Add 25 Add teaspoon chopped parsley. drained, and 11teaspoon drained, are usually usually sauceare served with bordelaise sauce meats served Grilled meats Grilled marrow. beef marrow. poached and drained beef and drained of poached garnished with slices of with slices garnished some Prepare sorne BoRDELAISE- - Prepare sAUcE BORDELAISE sauce II. SAUCE Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise but boil boil itit precedingrecipe, recipe' but inthe thepreceding as in wine as redwine concentrated concentrated red (ltoz.,3 tablespoons) 40g.g.(11 with40 Thicken with half.Thicken only by byhalf. downonly down oz., 3 tablespoons) foraa Boilfor butters). Boil BUTTER, Compound CompoundbUllers). butter (seeBUTTER, Kneadedbuller Kneaded bulk equalininbulk extractequal ormeat meat extract meat glazeor fewmoments. moments. Addmeat few preceding recipe. recipe. Finishasasinin thepreceding walnut. Finish totoaawalnut. eoRoBLAISE I-.c,BORDELAISE(oldrecipe). recipe). SAUCE sAUcEÀALA III(old sauceIII Bordelaise sauce Bordelaise leaves, pinchof garlic,aapinch oftarragon saucepan22clcloves 'Putininaasaucepan 'Put oves garlic, tarragon leaves, cloves,1I leafand and22cloves, littlebay bayleaf lemon, ofaalem fleshof theseeded seeded flesh the on, aalittle Simmer oil.Simmer oliveoil. Provence olive teaspoons Provence glassSauternes and22teaspoons Sauternesand glass addenough enough fat,add offaIlallfat, heat.Skim Skim off lowheat. overlow alltogether togetherover ail

au juice ofof~ the I lemon'. thejuice lemon'.(Car€me, (Carême,L'Art L'Artde delalacuisinefrangaise cuisine française au

XIX" X/xe sibcle-) siècle.)

Bourguignonne Bourguignonnesauce sauce-- See SeeBurgundy souce, sauce, below. below. um on pem A A rn Bread Bread sauce sauce (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE LA MIE DE PAIN À some parsley, L'ANcIENNE -'Chop L'ANClENNE'Ch op I1clove clovegarlic, garlic, I1shallot shallot and and sorne parsley, put them in a saucepan with I glass white wine, boil down,

put them in a saucepan with

t glass white wine, boil down,

(3 very fine breadihen then mix mix in in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) very fine breadand grated crumbs, crumbs, aa little little butter, butter, aa pinch pinch of of mignonette mignonette and

good consomme and ( nutmeg, nutmeg, 22tablespoons tablespoons ( 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) Boil down by 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) light light veal stock' stock. Boil down by juice of aa lemon.' (Car€me, L'Art de la half half and and add add the the juice of lemon.' (Carême, L'Arl de la cuisinefrangaise cuisine française au au XIXe x/xe sibcle). siècle). (for small roasted Fried Fried bread bread sauce sauce (English (English cookery) cookery) (for small roasted FRIr Bring to the boil 2j dl. (scant j birds). SAUCE AU AU PArN PAIN FruT -- Bring to the boil 2~ dl. (scant birds). sAUcE g. (L o2.,2 tablespoons) pint, pint, generous generous cup) consomm6, consommé, 25 25 (1 oz., 2 tatlle5ipc1ons) shallot. lean tablespoon finely chopped chopped lean diced diced ham haro and I1 tablespoon l0 minutes. for Simmer Simmer for 10 minutes. in butter, a pinch Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup) breadcrumbs breadcrumbs fried fried in butter, a pinch juice. of of chopped chopped parsley parsley and and aa few few drops drops lemon Iemonjuice. 6 A rl sREroNNr Breion Breton or or bretonne bretonne sauce sauce I. 1. sAUcE SAUCE À LA BRETONNE -'Cut - 'Cut 6 Drain large on ions in in rings, colour colour them them in in clarified cIarified butter. butter. Drain large onions 2 tablespoons (3 them them on on a a horsehair sieve, sieve, mix mix with with 2 (3 (3 tablespoons) and 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) consomme consommé and 2 tablespoons (3 tat,lespoon:s) little butter a sugar, a little Add sauce. well-beaten well-beaten Espagnole Espagnole sauce. Add a sugar, a !ittle glaze, then strain, pressing the sauce and and a a little little chicken chicken glaze, then strain, pressing the sauce (Car0me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au through aa fine through fine cloth'. c!oth'. (Carême, L'Art de la cuisinefrançaise au siicle.) XIXe X/Xe siècle.) (to and haricot beans). sAUcE flageolet bind II Breton sauce sauce II (to bind Breton FONDUE, Onionfondue. See FONDUE, BREToNNE -- See BRETONNE (English cookery). sAUcE AU tus veal (English graW, for roast veal for roast Brown gravy, Brown cookery). SAUCE AU JUS (+ pint, scant cup) Butter sauce II, to I dl. dl. (t Add 22 dl. coLoRE -- Add COLORÉ scant cup) Buller sauce Il, toI dl. juices roast. Finish off the roast. from (6 scant tablespoons, scant 1cup) cup) juices from the Finish off (6 tablespoons, sauce Worcestershire sauce or Worcestershire sauce or of Harvey sauce drops of few drops with aa few with ketchup. and and ketchup. sauce I or Red wine sauce I (for bourguignonne sauce or bourguignonne Burgundy or Burgundy 1 or Red wine sauce 1 (for BoURGUIGNoNNE, sAUcE AU vIN poultry). SAUCE sAUcE BOURGUIGNONNE, meat, poultry). eggs, meat, SAUCE AU VIN eggs, (3 onion chopped ornon tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Cook 22 tablespoons noucn -- Cook ROUGE red wine, season, (scant pint,2f, cups) dl. in 5 Stir in butter. in butter. Stir in 5 dl. (scant pint, 2* cups) red wine, season, by two-thirds. Add 3 down by garni(q.v.) boil down and boil addabouquet add a bouquet garni (q.v.) and two-thirds. Add 3 sauce, boil down by half and Espagnole sauce, lf cups) cups) Espagnole dl. (j pint, Ii boil down by half and dl. g. (2 cup) butter. oz.,* 50 add 50 serving, add strain. Before serving, oz., cup) butter. a piece of to accompany intended souce Bourguignonne Bourguignonne sauce to accompany a piece of saut6 pan in in the made poultry must be or meat saut6ed sautéed meat or poultry must be made in the sauté pan in previously cooked in The onion, onion, previously was cooked. cooked. The this was which this cooked in which pan at the same time as the wine. put into into the the pan till soft, soft, isis put butter till butter at the same time as the wine. may be be added. skins may mushroom skins of mushroom handful of added. AA handful sauce II (for poached^eggs). or bourguignonne bourguignonne sauce Burgundy or Burgundy II (for eggs). ( 1| pints, a half I litre (I! by down Boil BouRGUIGNoNNp sAUcE SAUCE BOURGUlGNONNE -- Boil down by a half pints, added been has which to quart) red wine to which has been added 1I red wine generous quart) generous (q.v.), garni bouquet garni (q.v.), aa small bouquet shallots, aasmall chopped shallots, iablespoon chopped tablespoon ground pepper. freshly little a pinch salt and of pinch of salt and a little freshly ground pepper. Kneaded butter tablespoons) Kneaded o2,3 40g.g. (1(lt with 40 Thicken with Thicken t oz., 3 tablespoons) bUller few mofor aafew Simmer for butters). Simmer (seeBUTTER, Compound bUllers). BUTTER, Compound (sec mobutter. oz.,kcup) add 50 50g.g.(2 and add ments, and Q oz., I cup) butter. ments, (for fish). fish).^s.r'ucn III (for sauceID bourguignonnesauce or bourguignonne Burgundyor Burgundy SAUCE (1f; pints, litre(li with 1Ilitre Pripire aafrshfumet sounCuIcNoNNE - - Prepare BOURGUIGNONNE fishfumel with pints, from the trimmings and bones quart) the red wine, generous quart) red wine, the bones and trimmings from the generous onion, chopped prepared, aamedium-sized medium-sized ehopped onion, aa being prepared, fishthat that isisbeing fish skins. mushroom skins. of mushroom handfulof garni and andaa handful bouquet garni smallbouquet small

*

n.

Season. Season. Kneaded butter withKneaded flnishwith andfinish halland byhalf, down by boildown Strain, boil Strain, buller the preceding rgcipe' butters) asasininthe (seeBUTTER, Compoundbullers) BUTTER, Compound (see preceding recipe. tablespoons, scant I cup) dl.(6(6tablespoons, keep1Idl. braised, keep fishisisbraised, IfIfthe the fish scant t cup) the sauce. thistotothe addthis in,and andadd cookititin, wine fumettotocook redwinefumel red sauce. 809 809

SAUCE SAUCE Bugundy or bourguignotte sauce for freshwater fish (old Burgundy or bourguiguotte sauce for.Clean freshwater fish (old recipe). szlucr A LA BouRGUrcNorrE a medium-sized reclpe). SAUCE À LA BOURGUlGNOTTE - -'Clean a mediwn-sized eel, cut it in chunks and put it in a saucepan with 2 onions, eel, eut it(+inlb., cbunks and put it in a saucepan with 20nions, cups) chopped mushrooms, 2 cloves garlic, ?25g.e,(1 lb., 44cups) 225 mushrooms, 2 c10ves garlic, 2.shallots, a bouquet chopped garni, a pinch powdered pepper, a ofpowdered 2pinch shallots, a bouquet garni, a pinch of pepper, a of four spices,4 washed anchovies ind j bottli Votrray. pinch offour spices, 4 washed anehovies and 1 bottle Volnay. Boil down a little on low heat, then strain thii essence, using Boil down a !ittlc on low heat, thcn strain this essence, pressure. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) well using mixed pressure. 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) weil mixed EspagnoleAdd santce, and225 g. (+ lb., 4 cups) peeled mushrooms Espagnole sauce, and 225 g. (t lb., 4 cups) peeled mushrooms with their stalks. Cook over strong heat in the usual way, and with stalks. Cook over strong heat in the usual way, and pour.their in another glass of Volnay. When the sauce is thC right pour in another of Volnay. When the sauce is the right consistency, putglass it into a bain-marie. Beforeserving servingadd a?d put it Înto a bain-marie. Before consistcncy, crayfish butter, 30 crayfish tails, and the same number of erayfish butter, 30 erayfish tails, and the same number of small white mushrooms.' (Car6me, L,Art de la cuisine small white mushrooms.' (Carême, L'Arr de la cuisine siicle.) frangaise au XI){e française au XlXe siècle.) Chambertin sauce. sAUcE AU cHAMBERTTN See Burgundy Chambertin sauce. SAUCE AU CHAMBERTIN -- See Burgundy sauce. Use Chambertin to make the sauce. sauce. Use Chambertin to makc the sauce. Chambord sauce. SAUCE CHAMBoRD - Genevoise sauce Chambord sauce. SAUCE CHAMJWRD - Genevoise sauce prepared with the cooking liquor of the fish used, blended prepared wÎth (See the cooking liquor of the fish used, blended with red wine. CARP, Carp Chantbord.) with rcd wine. CARP, Carp Chambord.) Chapelure (Sec or bread sauce (old recipe). s,c,ucs A rA, Chapelure or bread sauce (old recipe). SAUCE À LA cHAnELURE - 'Chop 2 shallots, cut up finely a little lean ham, CHAPELURE - 'Chop 2 shallots, eut up finely a little lean ham, put in a saucepan with 2 to 3 tablespoons light veal stock and put in a sauccpan wit h 2 ta 3 tablespoons light veal stock and a pinch of mignonette, simmer over low heat. When the sauce aispinch ofmignonette, simmer over low heat. When the sauce boiled down, remove the ham and add 2 tablespoons (3 is boiled down, remove the ham and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs, little fresh butter,'2 tablespoons) very fine breadcrumbs, aa little fresh butter, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) good consommd and thejuiceof tabJespoons (3 tablespoons) good consommé and thejuice of a lemon. Boil for a few minutes and serve., (Car€me, i'ert de alaleruon. Boil for a few minutes and serve.' (Carême, L'Art de cuisinefrangaise au XIXe siicle.') la cuisine française au XlXe siècle.) Charcutiire sauce I (for cuts of grilled or saut6ed pork). Charcutière sauce 1 (for cuts of griUed or sautéed pork). sAUcE cruncuntnr Cook 2 tablespoons (3 tablespbons) SAUCE CHARCUnÈRE -- Cook 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) finely chopped onion until soft in I tablespoon of lard oi finely chopped onion until soft in 1 tablespoon of lard or butter. Stir in 2 dl. (* pint, scant clrry) Demiglace sauce. Boil butter. Stir in 2 dl. (t pint, seant cup) Demi-glace sauce. Boil for a few moments. Strain, and add 2 tablespoons (3 for a few moments. Strain, and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) gherkins cutin julienne or dice. tablespoons) cut injulienne or dice. Charcutiiregherkins sauce If. sAUcE cn,lRcurIiRE - proceed as Charcutière sauce II. SAUCE CHARCUTIÈRE - Proceed as above, but dilute the thick pan juices with I tablespoon wine dilute the truck panjuices with 1 tablespoon wine above, but vinegar before adding the Demi-glace sauce. vinegar before adding the Demi-glace sauce. Finish Finish with with the the gherkins. gherkins. Charcutiire sauce IIf. ilucr cnmcuniRn - Mix the Charcutière sauce ill. SAUCE CHARCUTlf.R.E - Mix the cooked onion with'l tablespoon white cooked onion with 1 tablespoon white wine, wine, stir stir in in DemiDemiglace sauce and add the gherkins and I teaspoon of made and add the gherkins and 1 teaspoon of made glace sauce mustard. mustard. Charcutiire sauce W. sAUcE crilncufltns - Sprinkle the Charcutière SAUCE CHARCUTIÈRE - Sprinkle the cooked onion sauce with IV. I tablespoon flour. till cooked onion with 1 tablespoon fiOUL Cook till golden. golden. Dilutewith alittlewine or wine vinegar and Cook stirin white stock Dilute with a little wine or wine vinegar and stir in white stock (or water with the addition of meat g)aze or meat extract). (or water with the addition of meat glaze or meat extract). Boil for a few moments. Finish as above. Boil for a few moments. Finish as above. Chasseur or hunter sauce f (for small cuts of meat and Chasseur hunter sauce 1 (for smaU cuts of meal and sauteed fowl).oruucn cHAssEUR Saut6 g. (4 tOO g. (4 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) sautéed fowl). SAUCE CHASSEUR -- Sauté 100 chopped mushrooms in butter, season with salt. When thev chopped mushrooms in butter, season with salt. they are three-quarters cooked add I tablespoon finelyWhen choppei are three-quarters eooked add 1 tablespoon finely ehopped shallot. shaBot.with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) white wine, boil _ Mix Mixbywith dl. (6 tablespoons, t CLIp) white wine, boil down half,1stir in lf dl. ({ pint, Iseant cupl n emig lace sauce and down by half, stir in 11 dl. (t pint, ! cup) Demi-glace sauce and dl, tablespoons, scant (6 c.rp) Tomato (see * 11 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) Tomalo saice sauce (see above). above). Boil for a few moments. Add 25 g. (l oz., Boil for a Ifew moments. Add 25 g. (1 oz., 22 table*poorrr; tablespoons) butter and tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil arrd tarbutter and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. ragon. The mushrooms may also be sautied in a mixture of butter andThe oil. mushrooms may also be sautéed in a mixture ofbutter and oil. Chasseur or hunter sauce If. sAUcE cHAssEUR Chop the Chasseur or hunter sauce II. SAUCE CHASSEUR-- Chop the mushrooms, toss in butter with the chopped shallotj and mushrooms, toss in butter with the chopped shallots and remove from the pan. remove from the pan. Put into the cooking butter I tablespoon Put ioto the cooking butter 1 tablespoonflour, flour,cook cookgently gently till golden, mix with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup) wtritl tiU golden, mix with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t white wine, then stir in 2 dl. (| pint, scant cup) consommdcup) ororwhite wine, then stir in 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) consommé white stock and I tablespoon tomato purde. stock and 1 tablespoon tomato purée. 810 810

Boildown, down,put putback backthe themushrooms mushrooms ininthe thesauce, sauce.and and Boil finishoff offas finish as aabove. bove. Chateaubriand sauce sauce1I (for (forgrilled gd[ed meat), meat).SAUCE sAUcE Cbateaubriand cHATEAUBRTAND - - Boil Boildown downby bytwo-thîrds two-thirds 1Idl. dl.(6(6tablestables_ CHATEAUBRIAND p-ogls,seant s9a1t1 cup) white wine winewith with 1Itablespoon tablespoonchopped chopped poons, I cup)white shallot.Add Addltdl. l+dl.(t$pint, Demi-glace sauce. sauce.Boil Boildown down shallot. pint,!Scup) cup) Demi-glace byhalf. half.Remove Remove from from the theheat. heat. by Add100 100g.g.(4(4OZ., oz.,t* eup) cup)fresh freshbutter butter and and JI tablespoon tablespoon Add chopped tarragon. tarragon.Season Season wilh withaalittle little cayenne cayenne and andaafew few chopped juice. dropsoflcmonjuice. of lemon Mix weIl. well.Do Do not notstrain. strain. drops Mix Chateaubriandsauce saucrc II. If. SAUCE slucu CHATEAUBRIAND cHATEAUBRTATqo - - Heat Heat l I Chateaubriand tablespoonmeat glazeor meatglaze orextract extracttnixed mixedwith with 22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespooo tablespoons)white white stock stock or orwater. water. Add (4 oz., Add 100 100 g.g.(4 oi.,*1 cup) cup) tablespoons) fresh buttercutinto butter cut into fragments.l fragments, I tablespoonchopped tablespoon chopped parsley parsliy fresh and aafew few drops drops lemonjuice. lemon juice. Season Season with with aalittle little cayenne. cayenne. Mix Mii and well. weIl. Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, brown (for various brown (for various meats). meats). SAUCE sAUcE Chaud-froid cHAr.rD-FRorD BRUNE BRT;NE -- To To make make 55 dL (scant pint, dl. (seant pint, 2i 2f eups) cups) CHAUD-FROID sauce: put put inin aa thick-bottomed thick-bottomed saueepan saucepan Yi(generoui !I 3f dl. dl. (generous sauce: pint, 1~ lj cups) cups) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see above) sauce (see above) and ($ pint, and 2Zdt. pint, pint, dl. (t scant cup) cup) clear clear brown brown stock. stock. Boil Boil down down over over strong strong- heat, heat, seant stirring with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Add, Add, aa little little at at aa lime, time, 4+ dl. al (i(i stirring pint, s.eant scant 22 CUP&) cups) Meatjelly Meat jelly stock (seeJELLy). stock (see pint, JELL Y). Boil down down until until the the sauce sauce has has the the right right consistency. consistency. Chili Chill aa Boil quantity of small quantity of the the sauce sauce on on ice; ice; ifit if it is not not firm firm enough enough add add small jelly a few tablespoons and boil boil down. down. a few tablespoons jelly and Remove from from heat, heat, add add 22 tablespoons (3 tablespooDs) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Remove Madeira or or other other wine wine indicated indicated În in the reeipe, recipe, and and strain. strain. Stir Stii Madeira the sauce sauce unti] quite cold. until itit is is quite cold. the To obtain perfect coating, the sauce must be poured over - To obtain aa perfeet coating, the meat meat when when cold cold but but not not set. set. the Chaud-froid sauce., porlR sauce, chic chicken sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD POUR Chaud-froid ken. SAUCE voLArLLEs Proceed as as for for the the ordinary sauce, VOLAlLLFS - Proceed ordinary Chaud-froid sauce. replacing stock by replacîng brown brown stock by chicken chicken stock. Flavoui FJavour with wine, or, Truffie or, according aœording to to its its final final use, use, with with a few tablespoons Trulfle essence (see ESSENCE). ESSENCE). essence (see Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, fish. fish. s.lucB SAUCE cHAUD-FRorD CHAUD-FROID pouR POUR porssoN POISSON ary Chaud-froid -- Proceed Proceed as as for for ordin ordinary Chaud-froid sauce, sauce. using Espagnole Espagnole saucebased on sauce based on fish fish stock, stock, well weil skimmed. skimmed. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, game game flavomed. ftayoured. sAUcE SAUCE craun-rnop CHAUD-FROID A À L'EssENcE L'ESSENCE DE DE crBrER GIBIER - Proceed Proceed as as for for ordinary ordinary Chaud-froid Chaud-froid replaeîng the the brown brown stock stock by by I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, icant seant sauce, replacing :auce? it cup) cup) game game essence essence or orfwnet fwnel prepared prepared with with the the carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings of ofthe the game game being being used. used. Flavour Flavour the the sauce sauce with with Madeira Madeira or or similar similar wine. wine. For For certain certain game, game, notably notably for for thrushes, thrushes, add add to to this this sauce sauce aa few drops few drops of ofCognac Cognac or or gin. gin. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce with with orsnge orange (for (for duck duck and and duckting). duckling). proceed as for sAUcE SAUCEcHAup-rnon CHAUD-FROIDAÀr'onnNcp L'ORANGE-- Proceed as for Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sguc,e sauce !,l, replacing replacing the the brown brown stock stock by by l+ 1t dl. dl. (* (1 pint, pint, t-5 cup) cup) duckfumet duckfumet prepared prepared by by using using the the carcases carcases and and trimmings trimmings bf of the theduck. duck. Concentrate Concentrate this this sauce sauce more more than than usual usual so so that that itit will will not not bemade juice. be madetoo toothin thinby bythe theaddition addition of ofthe theorange orangejuice. Strain, Strain, add add to lO itil the the strained strained juice juice of of an an orange, orange, and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons(3 (3tablespoons) tablespoons)orange orangepeel peelblanched,iooled blanehed, cooledin in cold coldwater, water,drained, drained,and andcut eutinafinejulienne. in a fi ne julienne. This Thissauce saucecan canalso alsobe beused usedtotocoat coatvarious variouskinds kindsofofgame, game, the_luckfumer the ct uck fwnelbeing beîngreplaced replacedby bythat thatofofthe thegame gamebeing beingused. used. Chaud-froid SAUCEcnc,un-rnorD CHAUD-FROIDAÀrA, LA Cbaud-froidsauce saucewidr withtomatoes. tomatoes.sAUcE roMArE TOMATE-- Boil Boildown downby byone-third one-third55dl. dl. (scant (seantpint, pint, 2* 2i-cups) cups) tomato tomatopulp pulptotowhich which3j3tdl. dl.(generous (generous$!pint, pint, tf1t cupg cups)MZat Meal jelly jellystock stock(see (seeJELLY) JELL Y)have havebeen beenadded. added. Strain, and stir Strain, and stiruntil untilcompletely completelycold. cold. Chaud-froid SAUCEcHAUD-FRorD CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froidsauce saucewith witbtnffe truftleessenoe. esseoce.sAUcE AÀr'essrNce L'ESSENCEDE DETRUFFES TRUFFES-- Prepare Prepare game-flavourcd game-flavoured ChaudChaudfroid froidsauce saucewith with I 1dl. dl. (6(6tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seantj cup) cup) Trufie Truffie essence (seeESSENCE). ESSENCE). essence(see

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Chaud-froid sauce sauce à la la nigoise. niçoise. sAUcE SAUCE cHAUD-FRoln CHAUD-FROID AÀ LA Chaud-froid NiÇOISE-- Proceed Proceed as as for for Chaud-froid Chaud-froidsauce,fish. sauce, fish. Add Add to to the the rlrgolsE finishedsauce sauceaafew fewdrops dropsanchovy anchovyessence essence and and I1tablespoon tablespoon finished choppedtarragon. tarragon. chopped Dried cherry cherry sauce sauce for for venison venison (old (old recipe). recipe). sArrcE SAUCE AUx AUX Dried CEruSESsicnrs-SÈCHES - 'Peel 'Peel and and wash wash 500 500 g' g. (* (i lb') lb.) dried dried cherries, cherries, cERIsEs pound pound them them in in aa mortar mortar and and boil boil them them in in aa saucepan with with 22 tablespoons(3 (3tablespoons) sugar, 22glasses glasses good Burgundy, iablespoons glass wine wine vinegar, vinegar, aa pinch of coriander and a little lemon It glass peel. Simmer Simmer for for 20 20 to to 25 25 minutes minutes and and mix mix with with it 22 peet. tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce and and the the juice juice of of iablespoons lemon. Boil Boil down, down, stirring stirring all a11 the the time time over over strong strong heat. heat. aa lemon. Strain through through aa cloth, cloth, using using pressure.' pressure.' (Car€me, (Carême, L'Art L'Art de de Ia la Strain X/Xe sibcle.) siècle.) cuisine française au au XIXe cuisinefrangaise Colbert sauce sauce (for (for griled griUed fish fish and and meat meat and and for for vegetables). vegetables). Colbert SAUCE cor-neRr COLBERT -- Bring Bring to to the the boil boil 33 to to 44 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant sAUcE glazediluted to *t cup) cup) meat glaze diluted with with I1 tablespoon tablespoon white white stock stock or or to meat -Ii"rnove cup) oz',ticup) water. Remove from from heat heat and and incorporate incorporate 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., *a:t"t. softenoo butter. butter. softened Season, and and add a little !ittle grated nutmeg and a pinch of of Season, I Add, stirring stirring all the the time, the juice of of {i lemon, 1 cayenne. Add, tat)le~ipolon chopped chopped parsley parsley and I1 tablespoon Madeira. Madeira. tablespoon (Anglosauce for roast roast fowlo fowl, particularly particularly turkey turkey (AngloCranberry sauce (9 oz.) Cook 250 g. American cookery). cookery). sAUcE SAUCE A(rx AUX AIRELLEs AJRELLES - Cook g. (9 American in aa eovered covered 2f cups) water in cranberries with 5 dl. (scant (seant pint, 2* cranberries rub and rub split. Drain and bernes split. pan for a few minutes, until the berries through a fine sieve. through cooking juice to make of the cookingjuice with a few tablespoons tablespoons of Dilute with serving. before serving. Chill before a thick thick sauce. Sweeten Sweeten and heat through. ChilI a seucr ÀA etc.) SAUCE Diable or devilled sauce 1I (for grilled chicken etc.) pint, JJ cup) cup) dl. (+ pint, l+ dl. LA by two-ihirds H down by Boil down DTABLE -- Boil LA DIABLE tablespoon vinegar with 1 tabIespoon white wine and tablespoon vinegar and 11 tablespoon white wine pinch good pinch and aa good leaf and of thyme, ] bay leaf chopped shallot, a sprig ofthyme, ($ pint, pint, seant cup) DemiDemiscant cup) dl. (t in 22 dl. Stir in of frestrly ground pepper. Stir Add 1I strain. Add and strain. glace few moments moments and for aa few glace sauce. Boit for sauie. Boil pepper. with cayenne cayenne pepper. teaspoon season with parsley and and season chopped parsley teaspoon chopped A small small alone. A vinegar alone. The with vinegar down with boiled down wine can can be be boiled The wine the remove first rem but first quantity ove the be added, added, but may be quantity of butter may of fresh fresh butter saucepan heat. from heat. saucepan from phsl,n -- Prepare the Prepare the Diable rl DIABLE II. SAUCE s,luce ÀA LA sauce II. devilled sauce Diable or or devilled to which which water to wine in stock stock or or water Pour in as above. above. Pour herbs as wine and and herbs Kneaded with Kneaded Thicken with added. Thicken been added. has been or extract extract has meat glaze or above. offas asabove. BUTTER, Compound butters). Finish Finish off butte i (seeBUTTER, etc. (Englisb Diable sauce III for grilled chicken, etc. or devilled devilled sauce @nglish Diable or (* pint, by half 1| dll(i DTABLE -- Boil down by LA DIABLE A LA nilt' s,c,ucB À cookery). SAUCE shallot vinegar to which 1 tablespoon chopped shallot chopped tablespoon I which to vinegar wine 3 ",rp) added. has been added. sauce Stir generous cup) Espagnole sauce pint, generous cup) Espagnole (scant tI pint, dl. (scant in 2| dl. Stir in puree. Cook and Cook for for 55 (3 tablespoons) tomato purée. tablespoons) tomato tableipoons (3 and 22 tablespoons tableminutes. sauce,1I table· Worcestershire sauce, tablespoon Worcestershire Add 1I tablespoon minutes. Add Strain' cayenne.Strain. littlecayenne. andaaIittle sauce, and Harvey sauce, of Harvey spoon of fisla chigken)' neatfish, ofmeat, (for eggs,small cutsof smdlcuts sauce (for Duxellessauce scant t ct'p) SAUCE tablespoons,scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, DLTXELLES - Sti. in I dl. sAUcE DUXELLES white tablespoons) chopped mushtablespoons (3(3tablespoons) wineto to22tablespoons white wine pint,~ l+ dl. (+pint, rooms Boil down, stirininIf down,stjr prepared as dtielles.Iioil asduxelles. rooms prepared cup) tablespoons, dl.(6(6tablespoons, (seeabove) and11dl. above)and sauce(see Demiglace sauce clurp) Demi-glace Add11 seant moments.Add fewmoments. foraafew purie. Boil Boilfor tomatopurée. cup) tomato scant cup) tablespoon chopped parsley. tablespoonchopped ParsleY. In herbes' auxfinesherbes. sauceauxfines knownasassauce wasknown thiswas times pastthis Intimes basis l!;sl~atl~ole usedasasa abasis rich sauce'used Thisisisa arich demi-glace- *This Espagnoledemi-glace for After adding a specified quantityof9f sauces. After lessersauces. for manylesser white the basic stock and boiling it stocktotothe clearstock oi browncIear whiteor down, the brown sauce becomes very thick, almost jellied' This can be used in the preparation of different brown sauces' Espagnole demi-glace is often replaced by stock or brown veal veal itoik, brought to the right consistency by boiling it down ororby arrowroot. This latter potatoflour flourororarrowroot. withpotato thickening itwith bythickening method goodresult. result. givesa avery verygood methodgives

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frangaise au XI)tr sibcle.) sAUcB AUx meat). SAUCE of mest). cuts of small sauce 1I (for sm Fines herbes berbes sauce ail cuts AUX (3 tat)leSipolons) tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 Add 22 tablespoons FrNEs FINES TIERBEs HERBES -- Add (f, pint, dl. (t pint, t-cup)strained lf dl. to Ii tarragon to and tarragon parsley, chervil and parsley, chervil p"v1i-glace brown stock. Add a few concentrated brown or concentrated sauce or Demi-glace sauce lemon juice. drops lemonjuice. drops FINES npnnns - Boil down I AUx FINES II. SAUCE slucE AUX sauce II. Flm herbes Fines herbes sauce HERBES - Boil down 1 of handful of with aa handful wine with white wine cup) white (6 tablespoons, scant j cup) dl. (6 tablespoons, seant dl. ($ pint, scant dl. 2 Add leaves. tarragon and p"tiby, chervil parsley, chervil and tarragon Jeaves. Add 2 dl. pint, scant sauce' Tarragon sauce. for Tarragon off as as for Finish off cup) Demi-glace sauce. Finish in Toss in ITERBEsI FINES Arrx sAUcE III. sauce Fines herbes sauce III. SAUCE AUX FINES HERBES -- Toss tabledl. (6 tableAdd 1 dl. shallot. Add chopped shallot. tablespoon chopped butter tableSIPOC)ll (* dl. (~ and add 22 dl. down and boil down white-wine, cup) white scant j cup) spoons, seant wine, boil (l+ g. o?': 40 with Thicken stock. cup) scant (11 oz., 33 frnt, seant cup) stock. Thicken with 40 (see BUTTER, Compound butBUTTER, LOJ'I1p/Jun'a butter (see Kneaded butter iablespoons) Kneaded tablespoons) tablespoon add 1I tat,le!,pcton and add strain, and moments, strain, few moments, Boil for for aa few rers). Boil lers). of drops of few drops and aa few tarragon and and tarragon parsley, chervil chervil and chopped parsley, chopped juice. lemon juice. lemon the like the made like formerly made was formerly saucewas herbes sauce ThiJ Fines Frzes herbes This the recipe is given previously. which the saucefor Duxellessauce Duxelles for which (for fish, chiefly trout and salmon). sAUcE sauce (for Genevoise sauce Genevoise gentlyinin butteia mirepoix of 50 g. (2 oz', Cook gently cENEvoIsE -- Cook GENEVOISE (2OZ., oz.,1.-I cup) diced onion, a stick of 50 g.g.(2 carrot, 50 diced carrot, cup) diced piece of bay leaf and 10 parsley thyme, aapiece of thyme, sprig of *Gry, aa sprig sprigs. an oran small piecesor cutininsmall headeut (18 oz.) salmonhead oz.)salmon Add 500 g.(18 ofother other fish. and trimmings of quantityof ofbones bonesand equal -Cook theIiquid liquid Strainthe for'15 onfof lidon withaa!id slowiywith slowly 15 minutes.Strain good pint,2! cups) good dl.(1(lpint, Add66dl. theseasonings. seasonings.Add discardthe and discard and 21 cups) half. bYhalf. downby boildown andboil redwine wine and red fish onfish basedon sauceIlIIbased Espagnolesauce pint,1l{cups) cups)Espagnole dl.(t$pint, Add33dl. Add for1I heatfor lowheat overlow simmer over andsimmer skim,and theboil, boil,skim, Bringtotothe stock. Bring stock. fishfumet, extrafish addingextra andadding frequentlyand futnet,ifif skimmingfrequently hour,skimming hour,

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pressingthe the strainer,pressing finestrainer, througha afine saucetbrough thesauce Strainthe into a saucepan, sauceinto grease, putthe thesauce allgrease, Removeail ingredients.Remove mg:rec1!ellts. red wine, withred madewith tablespoons fish/urnetmade fewtablespoons witha afew dilutewith one-half. one-thirdtotoone-half. downbybyone-third boildown andboil and incorporate andincorporate heatand theheat fromthe remove sauce,rem thesauce, Strainthe Strain ove [rom anteaspoonanand1 Iteaspoon butterand freshbutter tablespoons)fresh oz.,6 6tablespoons) 7575g.g.(3Qoz.,

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Financiire Financière sauce sauce I1 (for sweetbreads, timbales, vol-au2 dl. (f pint' scant cup) venf SAUCE FINANcItnn FINANCIÈRE-- Add Add to to dl. pint, seant cup) vent, etc.). etc.). sAUcE (6 tablespoons, scant c"p) Matleira'sauce Madeira sauce x as itit cooks, cooks, 11dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant *i cup) truffie truffle essence, essence, and and strain. strain. Its most important This This sauce sauce is is rarely rarely used used by by itself. itself. Hs most important garnisfr (see GARNISHES)' ancibre theFrn bind functionisto function is to bind the (see GARNISHES). rrNlNcrtnr - 'Put Financiire Financière sauce sauce II II (old (old recipe). sAUcE SAUCE FINANCIÈRE -'Put ham, a pinch of lean shredded some saucepan into a some le an ham, a pinch of mushroom and mignonette, mJJ?nc)llette, aa little thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf, leaf, some some mushroom and glasses dry Madeira. Boil down over 2 and trufle trimmings trimmings and 2 glasses dry Madeira. Boil down over (3 consomm6 low low heat heat and and add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consommé Espagnole 2 and 2 tablespoons and tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) well-beaten Espagnole then put it back sauce (see above). Boil Boil down down by by hall half, strain, strain, then put it back sauce (seeabove). Boil down in a bainon on the the heat heat and and mix mix in in Ii glass glass Madeira. Madeira. Boil down in a bainmarie. marie. for aa game entrie, the chicken sauce is When When this tbis sauce is intended intended for gamefwnet Add a appropriate "'~""~J-"'~" an aOOf()OI"lat:e consommd is replaced by by an little butter just before serving.' (Car€me, L'Art de Ia caisine

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essence. chovyessence. chovy improvedbyby willbebeimproved saucewill thissauce flavourofofthis delicatefiavour Thedelicate The of mushroom handfulofmushroom cooking,a ahandful thecooking, courseofofthe thecourse adding,ininthe adding, the addthe braisedadd hasbeen beenbraised accompanieshas fishit itaccompanies thefish skins.-When skins. When the sauce. thesauce. liquortotothe braisingIiquor braising witha a mixwith genevoisesauce saucemix brilliantgenevoise andbrilliant brownand Toobtain obtaina abrown To applies Thisapplies incorporated'This butterisisincorporated. thebutter whenthe spoonwhen wooden woodenspoon withbutter. butter. sauceswith brownsauces totoailallbrown (oldrecipe). sAUcE recipe)'SAUCE wine(old Bordeauxwine withBordeaux saucewitb ~noise Genoisesauce 2 glasses intoa saucepan a saucepan BoRDEAUx- -'Pour vINDEDEBORDEAUX AUVIN cENolsEAU GENOISE 'Pour into 2 glasses

811 8ll

SAUCE (cups) red Bordeaux wine, add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) (cups) red Bordeaux wine, add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) mushrooms, truffies, parsley and 2 shallots, all blanctreO anO mushrooms, trumes, parsley and 2 shallots, ail blanched and chopped, a pinch offour-spices and a pinch offinely ground chopped, a pinch of four-spices and a pinch of finely ground pepper. Boil down almost completely, add 2 tablespoons (3 pepper. Boil down almost completely, add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) of consommd, 3 to 4 tablesp oons Espagno'le tablespoons) of consommê, to 4 tablespoons Espagnole sauce and I glass Bordeaux 3wine. Boil down to the-deiired and 1 glass Bordeaux wine. Boil down to the desired sauce consistency and transfer the sauce to a bain-marue. Blend in a consistency transfer the sauce to a bain-marie. Blend in a ljttle Isigny and butter.'(Car€me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au little XIX Isigny sibcle.)butter.' (Carême, L'A rI de la cuisille française ail XIXGooseberry siècle.) sauce (English cookery). sAUcE AUx cRosErLLEs Gooseberry SAUCE AUX GROSEILLES Cook j litre sauce (scant(English pint, 2f cookery). cups) gieen gooseberries, topped - and Cook t litrewith (seant 2* cups) green gooseberries, topped j dl.pint, ta^iled, (3 tablespoons, scant I cup) watei and and 1- dl. (3 tablespoons, scant t cup) water and (3 oz.,with 75 g.tailed, 6 tablespoons) sugar. 75 g. (3 oz., 6 tablespoons) sugar. Rub through a fine strainer. Rub through fine strainer. Grand Veneura sauce I (for venison). s.lucn cRAND vENEUR _ Grand Veneur sauce 1 (for l'enison). GRAND VENEURAdd I tablespoon gooseberry jelly to SAUCE 2 dl. (l$pint, scant cup) Add 1 tablespoon gooseberry jelly to 2 dl. (1 ~ pint, seant eup) concentrated and strained pepper or poivrade sauce II. eoncentrated and strained Pepper or poivrade Salice II. Grand Veneur sauce If. sAUcE cRAND vENEUR Finish off off Grand Veneur sauce II. SAUCE GRAND VENEUR -- Finish Pepper or poivrade sauce II with gooseberry jelly and 2 to 3 Pepper or poivrade sauce Il with gooseberry jelly and 2 to 3 tablespoons (3 tablespoons to scant cup) cream. Mix. tablespoons (3 tablespoons ta seant * cup) cream. Mix. Grand Veneur sauce I[. sAUcE GRAND vENEUR - Add to Grand Veneur sauce m. SAUCE GRAND VENEUR - Add to Pepper or poivrade sauce II a few tablespoons hare's blood Pepper poivrade sauce Il a few tablespoons hare's blood diluted or with a little of the marinade of the game being used. diluteo with a liule(for of the marinade of the game being used. Hachee sauce I minced meat and other dishes made wittr Hachée sauce 1 (for minced meat and other dishes made wlth left-overs). sAUcE Hecnrs - Cook I large tablespoon chopped left-overs). SAUCE l-IACHEE- Cook 1 large tablespoon chopped onion _in I tablespoon butter. When it is ihree-q,rariers onion 1 tablespoon butter. When it is three-quarters cooked,inadd chopped shallot. I tablespoon ehopped eooked, (6 tablespoons, scantshallol. Stir inadd I dl.t tablespoon cup) wine vinegar, boil Stir in l dl. (6 tablespoons, -1* cup) wine vinegar, boil d9wn, and add l+ dl. (+ pint,scant cup) Demi-glace siuce (see t cup) down, and add I! dl. (; pint, j sauce (see above) and I dl. (6 tablespoons, scantDemi-glace tomato p,ri"". above) (6 tablespoons. seant 1".tp) eup) tomato puree. Simmerand for a1 dl. few moments. Add I tabl-spobn chopped lean Simmer for a few moments. Add 1 tablespoon ehopped iean huT, I tablespoon dry duxelles, I tablespoon chopped capers ham,gherkins, 1 tablespooll dry duxel/es, 1 tablespoon chopped capers and and- I tablespoon chopped parsley. and ghcrkins, and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley..pour Hach6e sauce If (old recipe). sAUcE rilcnfs into a Hachée sauce n (old recîpe). SAUCE HACHÉE -- 'Pour into a saucepan 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, add saucepan 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, add 1I tablespoon chopped mushrooms, half this quantit parsley, tab!espoon ehopped mush rooms, ha!f this q uantity parsley, 22 chopped shallots, a little garlic, a fragmentbf ttrymi and bay chopped sha!lots, a little garhe, a fragment ofthyme and bay leaf,2 cloves, a good pinch of white pepper and a little gratei leaf, 2 cloves, good pinch ofwhite pepper and a little grated nutmeg. Cookathis seasoning over low heat. Take out nutmeg. Cook this seasoning over low heat. Take out the the bay bay leaf, thyme and cloves and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoonsj leaf, thyme and cloyes and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consommd and 2 big tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Espagnole consommé 2 big tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Espagnole sauce. Boil and down and transfer it to a bain-marie.- Bifore and transfer it to a bain-marie. Before sauce. Boil serving mix down in a little anchovy butter, 2 small gherkins serving mix in a anchovy butter, 2 small gherkins chopped very finelylillie and some capers.' (Car€me, L,Lrt de ta chopped very nnely and sorne capers.' (Carême, L'Ar/ de la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe sibcle.) cuisinefrançaüe au Xlxe siècle.) Herb sauce for boiled fish and joints (English cookery). Herb sauce for boiled fish and joints (EngLish cookery). sAUcE AUx ARonal,rrs - Put in a saucepan I chopped shallot, a SAUCE AUX AROMA lèS - Put in a sa ucepan 1 chopped shallot, a sprig of thyme, a pinch of chives, a pinch of savbry, a pinch of sprig ofthyme, a pineh ofchives, a pinch ofsavory, a pinch of marjoram, a good pinch of sage, a good pinch of basil, 4 marjoram, aand good pineh of sage, a good pinch of basi~, 4 peppercorns a little grated nutmeg. pour in 2j dl. (scant j peppercorns a [ittle grated nutmeg. Pour in dl. (scant! p_int, generousand cup) boiling consomm6. Cover the pun urrd pint, to generous cup) boiling consommé. Coyer the pan and allow infuse for l0 minutes. Strain. Stir into ablond, roux allow to infuse for 10 minutes. Strain. Stir into a blond roux preparedw_ith25 g.(l o2.,2 tablespoons) butter and25 g-(l prepared g. (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter and 25 g. (1 oz., cup) with flour.25Mix, simmer for a few moments, strain,ind f oz., t cup) flouf. Mix, simmer for a few moments, strain, and add I tablespoon chopped, blanched chervil and tarragon, adda 1squeeze tablespoon chopped, blanched chervil and tarragon, and of lemon juice. and a squeeze oflemonjuice. Hunter sauce - See Chasseur sauce. Hnnter sauce sauce - See sauce. Italian f (forChasseur small cuts of meat, fowl). ltaUan sauce 1 (for small cuts of Meat, fowl). sAUcE SAUCE ITALTENNE - Prepare 2 dl. (+ pint, scant cup) Duxelles sauce ITALIENNE - Prepare 2 dl. (-!- pint, scant cup) Duxe/les sauce and add I tablespoon chopped lean cooked ham and I and add 1chopped tablespoon chopped lean cooked ham and 1 tablespoon parsley, chervil and tarragon. tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil and tarragoo. proceed Italian sauce If (for grilled fish). slucr TTALTENNE ltalhlD sauce II (for griUed SAUCE ITALlENNE- - Proeeed as in the foregoing recipe, butfish), use Espagnole saucebased on as in the foregoing recipe, but use Espagnole sauce based 00 fish stock to add to the duxelles,and Gave out the fish stock to add to the(for duxe/les, and Icave out theham. ham. Lyonnaise sauce f small cuts of mea! chiefly for Lyonnai'ie sauce 1 (for smaU cuts of Meat, chiefly for leftovers). sAUcE LyoNNArsE - Cook 3 tablespoons (scint leftovers). SAUCE LYONNAISE - Cook 3 tablespoons (scantf ~ cup) finely chopped onion in I tablespoon butter. Moistei cup)j finely onion in 1 tablespoon butter. Moisten with dl. (3 ehopped tablespoons, scant cupf wine vinegar wîth 1- dL (3 tablespoons, seantI l cup) wine vinegarand andan an

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quantitywhite equalquantity whitewine. wine.Boil Boildown, down,acd andadd add22dl. pint, dl.H$pint, equal scantcup) cup)Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce. sauce.Cook Cookatatboiling pointfor boilingpoint foia few seant a few moments. moments. smallquanlity quantity oftomato of tomatopuree pur6emay maybebeadded. added. AAsmall Lyonnaise sauce sauce If.SAUCE sAUcELYOJ'.'NAISE LyoNNArsE- -Cook Cookthe theonion onion inin Lyonnaise butter.Sprinkle Sprinkle with with1Itablespoon tablespoon flour flourand andcolour colourlightly. lightly. butter. Stirininwine winevinegar, vinegar, white whitev.rine, wine,and andstock. stock.Finish Finish off onasis Stir above. above. Madeirasauce (forsmall sauce1I(for smallcuts cutsof ofmeat). meat).SAUCE sAucr AU ,tuMA rr,t.loinn Madeira o ÈRE - Addtoto22d!. pint, seant scantcup) cup)coneentrated concentrated Demi-glace Demiglace Add 9t.(tt* pint, santce, J3tablespoons (scanttf,cup) tablespoons (scant cup)Madeira. Madeira. sauce, Madeira sauce sauce If. SAUCE sAUcE.lu uaotnr - - Saule Saut6ininbutter butterthe the Madeira AU MADÈRE piece of ofmeat meat beîng beingused. used. Take Take ilit out pot, di!ute out of of the the pot, dilute the the piece juices with cooking juices with 1I tablespoon tablespoon Madeira, Madeira,and andadd add 22dl. dl. (t(+ cooking pint,seant scanteup) cup) stock, stock, or or water water ta to which which aa!ittle glazeor little meat meat glaze oi pint, extract has hasheen been added. added. Bring Bring to to the the boil. boil. Thicken Thicken with g. wiih 40 aOg. cxtract (ll oz., 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) Kneaded Kneaded buller (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTE{, (11 oz., Compound bu/ters). butters\. Finish Finish with with 22 tablespoons (3 tabletablespoons (3 table_ Compound spoons) Madeira Madeira and and strain. strain. spoons) Marrow sauce (for grilled sauce (for grined meat, mea! l'egetables. vegetables, poached poached eggs). eggs). Marrow s,c.ucp Ài, LA LA MOELLE MoELLE -- Like Like Bordelaise Bordelaise sauce sauceb.tt ieplace the theied SAUCE bUI replace red wine with with white white wine. wine. wine Marrow sauce (for grilled sauce TI If (for grilled fish). fish). SA sluce i, LA rl MOELLE uorrrr -- Boil Boil Marrow UCE À (6 tablespoons, down 1I dl. j cup) white dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1CUP) white wine wine with good with 1I good down tablespoon chopped shaUo!. shallot. Season Season with with sail salt and and aa little tablespoon chopped little ground peppeT. freshly ground pepper. Add Add 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) freshly concentrated and and thickened thickened brown brown stock stock or or 1I tablespoon tablespoon coneentrated g)Me or meat glaze or meat meat extract. extract. Mix. Mix. meat Add, away away from from tbe the heat. heat, 100 g. (4 (4 oz., 100 g. oz.,i4- cup) c,rp) butter cut in in Add, tiny pieces g. (2 (2 oz., and 50 50 g. oz.,jcup) marrow, blanched, blanched, drained, tiny pieces and t cup) marrow, and cut cut into into small small dice. dice. and A$d a drops lemon and 1I tablespooon Add a few few drops lemon juice juice and ta blespooon chopped parsley. parsley. This sauce, aa variant of Bercy poured direetly santce, is poured directly on This sauce, variant of Bercy sauce,is the the grilled grilled fish. fish. Matelote Matelote sauce sauce (for (for eel eel and and freshwater freshwater fish). fish). sAUcE SAUCE MATELoTE MA TELOTE --See See Redwine Red wine sauce. sauce. Mushroom Mushroom sauce sauce fJ (for (for small srnall cuts cuts of of meat; meat; sauteed sautéed poultry). poultry). sAUcE SA UCE AUx AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS - Sauti Sauté in in butter butter 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,lt oz., 1t cups) cups) peeled peeled mushroom mushroom caps caps or or large large sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. Season, pourin 2 dl. and Season, pour in 2 dl. $pint, (1- pint, scant scant cup) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce and I1 tablespoon tablespoon Madeira, Madeira, and and simmer simmer over over gentle gentle heat heat without without allowing allowing to to boil. boil. Canned Canned mushrooms mushrooms can can be he used. used. Mwhroom Musllroom sauce sauce II. sAUcE SAUCE AUx AUX cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS _ - Sauti Sa utè the the mushrooms in butter mushrooms in butter and and remove remove from from the the pan. pan. put Put I1 scant seant tablespoon tablespoon flour flour in in the the butter butter and and cook cook tiil tilt pate pale golden golden colour. colour. Stir Slir in in 33 dl. dl. (* <1 pint, pint, l|li cups) eups) white white stock stock or or consomm6 consommé and and boil boil down down by by one-third. one-third. Put Put the the mushrooms mushrooms back back in in the the sauce, sauce, heat heat without without boiling, boiling, and and add add I1tablespoon tablespoon Madeira. Madeira. Mustard Mustard sauce sauce (for (for griled grilled meat, meat, particutarty particularly for for pig's pigts trotters trotters St. St. Menehould). Menehould). s,l,ucn SAUCE MouTARDE MOUTARDE -- Cook Cook gentiyln gently in butter butter 50 50g.g. (2(2 oz., oz., j -t cup) cup) finely finely chopped chopped onion, onion, seaion season with with sa!,,pepper, thyme and salt, pepper, aaoinch pînch of ofthyme andpowdered powdered bay bayleaf. leaf. Stir in 1t dl.(f pint,3cup)whitewine, pint, i cup) white wine,boildown, boil down,add add lIdl. 1! dl. ., Sliri1ljdl. (f pint, cup)Demi-glace (~pint,i ~cup) Demi-glacesauce.Boildown sauce. Boil downby byone-third. one-third.Add Add I1good goodtablespoon tablespoonDijon Dijonmustard, mustard, I 1tablespoon tablespoonbutter butterand andaa juice. squeeze squeezeofoflemon lemon juice. Napolitaine Napolitainesauce saucefor forgame gameand andvenison venison(old (oldrecipe). recipe).saucn SAUCEAÀ LA LA NApoLrrArNE NAPOLITAINE -- 'Put 'Put inin aa saucepan saucepan I1tablespoon tablespoon grated grated horseradish, horseradish, aalittle littlechopped ehoppedlean lean ham, harn, aa seasoned seasoned bouquet bouquet little mignonette qqrni,.a andgrated gratednutmeg, nutmeg,and and I 1glass glassdry dry garni, a little mignonetteand Madeira. Madeira.Boil Doildown downover oververy verylow lowheat, heat,taki takeout outtheTouquei, the bouquet, add add22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons)consomm6 consomméand andZ2ta6les_ tablespoons poons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Espagnole Espagnole sauce. sauce. Strain Strain the the sauce sauce through acloth and tbrough a c10th andboil boîldown downagain, again,mixingin,little mixing in,littlebybylittle, !ittle. glass I 1 glassMalaga Malagaand andf pot potredcurrant redcurrantjelly. jelly.Add Adda alittle littlebutter butter and andgame gameglaze. glaze.

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SAUCE SAUCE

How Howtotostrain strainaasauc€ saucethrough throughmuslin, muslin, using usingtwo twowooden wooden spatulas spatuJas(tato6.te) (Larousse)

develops an acrid moment. moment. Allowed Allowed to to cook cook for for aa long long time time it it develops an acrid the preparation of of the at the end of added at amount, added small amount, taste. taste. A A small the end preparation of quantity put in at large quantity result than a a dish, dish, produces produces aa better better result than aa large put in at the the beginning. beginning. AU PoIvRADE (for game). sAUcE II sauce poiwade or Pepper or poivrade sauce Il (for game). SAUCE POIVRADE AU Pepper they until they in butter butter until vegetables in of vegetabJes the mirepoix mirepoix of Cook the ctnnn--- Cook GIBIER the to them them the recipe, adding adding to preceding recipe, in the the preceding soft, as as in are soft, are pieces. in small small pieces. cut in game being used, cut being used, the game of the trimmings of trimmings wine vinegar and with wine moisten with is cooked, cooked, moisten Wheniverything Wh en everything is vinegar and sauce. Poivrade sauce. the ordinary ordinary Poivrade for the offas finish off and finish wine and white wine white as for To butter. of instead in oil cooked may be mirepoix The The mirepoix may be cooked in oil instead of butter. To in them, in add to to them, poivrade sauces, santces' add of poivrade flavour of thb fine fine fiavour heighten the heighten skins. mushroom skins. of mushroom handful of cooking, aa handful of cooking, course of the course the PoIvRADE (old recipe). sAUcE POIVRADErecipe). SAUCE III (old poivrade sauce sauce III or poivrade Pepper or Pepper carrots, chopped carrots, and 22 chopped onions and chopped onions 'Put in in aa saucepan saucepan 22 chopped 'Put parsley, a little thyme and of parsley, few sprigs sprigs of ham, aa few lean ham, little lean add aa little add a little thyme and

served d 'For entrées of of braised braised fillets flIlets of of beef beef and roasts roasts served à la la 'F or entrtes add sultanas, picked picked over and and washed, washed, to to the the napolitaine, add little candied citron cut in small dice and blanched blanched sauce. A little added.' (Carême, L'art de la cuisinefrangaise cuisine française au au may also be added.'(Car€me, may x/xe siicle.) siècle.) XIXe with sAUcE NoIsETTE sauce. SAUCE NOISETTE -- Hollandaise sauce sauce with Noisette sauce. (see BUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound Noisette butters). Noisette butter added (see sAUcE Orange sauce (for duck and teal, spit or oven roasted). SAUCE Orange grease and and remove the grease cooking the duck, remove À r'on L'ORANGE - After cooking c,NcB A glass white wine. wine. pan with with 1I glass the pan dilute the cooking juices in the and ($ pint, pint, scant cup) concentrated and scant cup) dl. (t 2 dl. Boil add 2 Boil down, down, add add and add Simmer for aa few moments and thickened brown stock. Simmer an orange. the juice of ofan thejuice (3 tabletabletablespoons (3 add 22 tablespoons and add Strain muslin and through muslin Strain through and blanched and in fine fine julienne, peel cut cut in spoons) orange peel spoons) orange iulienne, blanched drained. drained. meat gdiled meat, meat, meat for grilled sauce for oyster sauce Oyster sauce brown oyster sauce or or brown nuirnns -lux HUÎTRES sAUcE AUX cookery). SAUCE pudding, grliled cod cod (English pudding grilled @nglish cookery). which in which liquor in the Iiquor (6 tablespoons, of the scant ~* cup) of tablespoons, scant Stir dl. (6 Stir 1t dl. ".tp)scant light brown brown ($ pint, pint, cup) light scant cup) dl. (t and 22 dl. oysters cooked and were cooked oysters were oz., 22 25 g.g- (10 oz., of 25 composed of roux composed stock into aa brown brown roux siock into flour. tablespoons) fiour. o2.,2 l5 g.g.G tablespoons) (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) and 15 butter and tablespoons) butter l0 for 10 cook for and cook the boil, boil, and to the bring to Season lightly, bring very lightly, Seaion very sliced and sliced poached, de-bearded de-bearded and 12 poached, minutes. add 12 Strain, add minutes. Strain, pinch of cayenne. oysters, ofcaYenne. and aa pinch oysters, and PoIvRADE -(for meat). sAUcE POrvRADE meat). SAUCE Pepper poiwade sauce sauce1I (for or poivrade Pepper or mirepoix vegetable mirepoix cup) vegetable scant 1 Cook tablespoons, scant dl. (6(6 tablespoons, Coo[ 1I dl. ] cup) them moisten soft, moi are soft, vegetables are the vegetables gently sten them When the gently in in butter. butter. When the and the vinegar and wine vinegar cup) wine scant tI cup) with tablespoons, scant dl. (3(3 tablespoons, with 1I dl. half. by half. Boil down down by same wine.Boil white wine. of white amount of same amount dl. (t(f and 22dl. sauce and cup\ Espagnole Espagnole sauce pint, scant Stir scantcup) in 22dl. dl. (t(+ pint, Stir in hour. for 1I hour. slowlyfor veryslowly Cook very stock. Cook pin t, scant whitestock. pint, cup) white scantcup) few tablespoons tablespoons add aafew and add totime time and Skim fromtime timeto sauce from the sauce Skimthe rapid. too rapid. white down isistoo boiling down the boiling stock ififthe whitestock crushed add55crushed sauceadd thesauce strainingthe AA few before straining minutes before few minutes peppercorns. peppercorns. -Sirain, ' Strain, pressing (scant i or otti tablespoons (scant Add33or ot44tablespoons pressing weil. well. Add fewminutes. minutes' foraafew toboil boil for cup) sauceto thesauce putback back the stockand andput cup) stock add meat'add marinated meat, accompany marinated Iflfthe toaccompany poivrade sauce sauceisisto thepoivrade the ofthe tablespoons of fewtabJespoons totoit,it. ininthe cooking,aafew ofcooking, thecourse courseof justbefore before addititjust butter, add marinade. demandsbutter, recipedemands therecipe marinade. IfIfthe serving. serving. pepperytaste, taste' itspeppery sauceisisits The thissauce characteristicofofthis The characteristic aromatics andaromatics vegetablesand blending variousvegetables thevarious thatofofthe withthat blending with and vinegar. thevinegar. bythe sharpenedby andsharpened last thelast preparation atatthe thepreparation Pepper addedtotothe onlybebeadded mustonly Peppermust

macq 22 little mace, mignonette, aa little pinch of good pinch of mignonette, leaf, aa good bay Jeaf, bay tablespoons and 22 tablespoons good vinegar, vinegar, and (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) good tablespoons (3 tablespoons low heat. heat. very low on very Simmer on (3 tablespoons) consomm6. Simmer tablespoons) consommé. (3 (3 tablespoons (3 add 22 tablespoons complete, add down isis complete, 'When the the boiling boiling down 'When (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons and consomme tablespoons) tablespoons) consommé and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) moments, few moments, for aa few Simmer for sauce. Simmer Espagnole sauce. well-stirred Espagnole well-stirred to the the down to pressure, and boil itit down and boil using pressure, sauce, using the sauce, strain the strain (Car6me, L'Art de la butter.' little Add a consistency. desired desired consistency. Add a little butter.' (Carême, L'Art de la siicle.) XDF siècle.) au X/xe cuisinefrangaise cuisine française au slucr etc.).SAUCE fowl, etc.). (forsmall of meat fowl, smallcuts cuts ofmeat, sauce(for P6rigourdine sauce Périgourdine Theonly only pfrucounorNn A variant sauce. The Pirigueux sauce. of Périgueux variantof PÉRIGOURDINE - - A in thick are cut truffies the version in this is that difference difference is that in this version the truffies are cut in thick slices. round slices. round game' fowl'game, meaf fowl, (forsmalJ cutsofof meat, smallcuts sauce 1I (for P6rigueux sauce Périgueux pfnrcurux- -Boil by Boildown down by saucnPÉRIGUEUX etc.). SAUCE vol-au-vent" etc.). timbales, vol-au-vent, timbales, (see sauce (see Demi-glace sauce pint,scant crtp) Demi-glace scantcup) dl.(t(+pint, one-third 22dl. one-third cup) scant *cup) orscant tablespoons or ot3itubl".poons with22or above) with above) tablespoons (3(3tablespoons (seeESSENCE). ESSENCE). essence (see Trffieessence Truffle dicedcooked cooked tablespoons)diced tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) Add22tablespoons Strain.Add Strain. heat. theheat. from the awayfrom truffiesaway truffies notbebe mustnot thesauce saucemust addedthe beenadded have been truffies have thetruffies Afterthe After again. boiledagain. boiled pfnrcusux- - Cook gentlyinin Cookgently sAUcEPÉRIGUEUX II.SAUCE sauceIl. P6rigueuxsauce Périgueux Season truffies.Season dicedtruffies. tablespoons)diced tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) butter22tablespoons butter drain. pepperand anddrain. saltand andpepper withsalt with Stir Madeira.Stir tablespoonMadeira. panwith with1Itablespoon thepan the juicesininthe Dilutethejuices Dilute for Simmerfor stock'Simmer brownstock. thickenedbrown cup)thickened pint,scant scantcup) dl.(t$pint, inin22dl. add sauce,add thesauce, backininthe truffiesback Putthe thetruffies Strain.Put moments.Strain. fewmoments. a afew without keephot hotwithout andkeep Madeiraand tablespoons) Madeira tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) 22tablespoons boil. allowingtotoboil. allowing

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SAUCE SAUCE Pine kernel sauce

i

I'italienne (old recipe). sAUcE AUx

Portwine winesauce sauceIIIIfor gamebirds, forgame particularlywild birds,particularly wildduck Port duck ponro- Boil cookery).SAUCE sAUcEAU AUPORTO @nglishcookery). downbybyhalf half1 dl. I dl.(6(6 (English - Boildown tablespoons,scant scant1 jcup) porttotowruch cup)port which1 {tablespoon tablespoonchopped chopped tablespoons, shallot,a asprig sprigofofthyme thymeand pieceofofbay anda apiece bayleaf leafhave shallot, been haveGen juiceofof1 Iorange added.Add Addthe thejuice orangeand and1 ]lemon, lemon,and pinch added. anda apinch gratedorange orangerind. rind.Stir Stirinin2 2dl.dl.(1$pint, pint,scant scantcup) cup)thickened grated thicliened brownveal vealstock. stock.Simmer Simmerfor fora afew fewmoments momentsand andstrain. brown strain. Portugaise sauce (foreggs, sauce1I(for egggfisb, fish,meat poulfi).SAUCE meatand andpoultry). Portugaise sAUcE poRTUcArsE- Cook goodtablespoon tablespoonfinely finelychopped PORTUGAISE choppedonion onion - Cook1Igood tablespoonoil. oil.When Whenititisisgolden goldeninincolour, colour,add peeled, inin11tablespoon add4 4peeled, coarselychopped, chopped, tomatoes tomatoes and andaalittle gratedgarlic. garlic.Season. littlegrated coarsely Season. Begincooking cookingover goodheat, overgood heat,then thencoyer coverthe panand Begin thepan andcook cook veryslowly, slowly,stirring stirring from fromtime timetototime, time,for for2525minutes. very minutes.Stir Stirinin tablespoons(1$cup) cup)thickened thickened brown brownstock. 44tablespoons stock.Add Add1Itabletablespoonchopped chopped parsley parsley and andaalittle littlefreshly groundpepper. freshlyground spoon pepper. Portugaise sauce sauceIIIf for forbraised braisedor orroasted roastedfillet beef, and Portugaise filletofofbeef, and .Takeoff ponrucArsE - 'Take (oldrecipe). for harn ham (old recipe).SAUCE sAUcEÀALA for u PORTUGAISE off carefully 22small piecesoflemon small pieces peeland of lemon peel carefully andthe sameamount thesame amountof of peel; put orangepeel; put them them into intoaasaucepan, saucepan, adding orange adding1Iteaspoon teaspoon coriander seeds, seeds,1I teaspoon teaspoonsugar glass Malaga. coriander and1I glass sugar and Malaga. Simmer over overaalow lowheat, heat,add add22tablespoons Simmer tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons) consommi and and strain strain this this seasoning seasoning through consommé through aaclotho cloth. Add Add y'.Jftet enough Espagnole Espagnole sauce sauce to to accompany enough accompany an anentrée. entrie.After having boiled boileddown down the thesauce sauce to having to the point, add thedesired desiredpoint, glass add1Iglass Malaga. Boil Boil down down again, again, then pour the Malaga. then pour the sauce sauceinto intoaabainbainjuice of marie, and and add add the the juice marie, of aa lemon lemon and and aa little little butter.' butter.' (Car€me, L'Art L'Art de de la la cuisine cuisine française (Carême, au x/xe XIXe siècle.) siicte.) frangaise au Provengal sauce (for eggs, sauce (for Provençal eggs, 6sh, fish, smalJ small cuts cuts of of meat, meaf fowl, fowl, pRovENqALE - Cook vegetables). SAUCE sAUcE PROVENÇALE vegetables). (Zoz., 1* cup) 50g. (20z., - Cook50g. chopped onion onion in in oil oil until chopped and until soft. soft. Add Add 44 large peeled "up) large peeled and pressed tomatoes, tomatoes, 1I small small clove pressed clove of garlic, salt of crushed crushed garlic, salt and and pepper. Cook for for aa few few minutes pepper. Cook minutes over good heat. over good heat. Moisten Moisten with with (+ pint, l+ dl. pint, jf cup) dl. (i cup) dry dry white 11 white wine. wine. Boil Boil down. down. Add Add 21 2+ dl. dt. (scant 1j pint, pint, generous generous cup) (scant cup) light light veal veal stock stock.. Cook Cook for foi 1515 minutes. Add good teaspoon Add 11 good minutes. teaspoon chopped parsley. chopped parsley. (old recipe). sauce (old Ravigote sauce recipe). SAUCE sAucE RAVIGOTE RAvrcorn À,i, L'ANCIENNEL'ANcTENNE an ornon onion and 'Chop an and cook cook it lightly lightly in in aa little little clarified clarified butter. butter. glass of of Chablis, 1I tablespoon juice of Add a glass tablespoon consommé, consommd, the the juice of aa lemon, aa little little garlic garlic and lemon, and shallot, shallot, aa chopped chopped gherkin, gherkin, 1I tablespoon capers, capers, sorne parsley roots, some parsley roots, tarragon tarragon leaves, leaves, aa small bouquet garni, a clove, small clove, aa pinch of of nutmeg and and crushed crushed peppercorns. Simmer for 20 minutes, strain strain into aa saucepan saucepan containing 22large large tablespoons tablespoons boiling Espagnole and Espagnole sauce sauceind carefully grease from this sauce. Boil down to the carefully remove rem ove all ail grease desired desired point, point, mix mix in in 1I teaspoon teaspoon fine fine mustard mustard and and strain through a cloth. clotho When ready to serve, blend in aa !ittle little fresh fresh butter butter and and I1 tablespoon chopped chopped chervil chervil and and tarragon.' (Car€me, (Carême, L'Art L'Art de la caisinefrangaise cuisinefrançaise au au XIXe x/xe siècle.) sibcle.\

Pine kernel sauce à l'italienne (old recipe). SAUCE AUX prcNot.Es 'Put into a saucepan 50 g. (2 oz., A r'rrALIENr.lE PIGNOLES À L'ITALIENNE - 'Put into a saucepan 50 g. (2 OZ.,

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cup) brown whitesugar, sugar,22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) tablespoons) cup) brown ororwhite good vinegar, tablespoons (3 tablespoons) light veal stock, good vinegar, 22tablespoons (3 tablespoons) light veal stock, a seasoned bouquet garni, a pinch of grated nutmeg and a a seasoned bouquet garni, a pinch of grated nutmeg and a pinch of mignonette. Simmer all together over moderate heat. pinch ofmignonette. Simmer ail together over moderate heat. When theboiling boilingdown downisiscomplete, complete,add add22tablespoons tablespoons(3(3 When the tablespoons) Espagnole sauce and I glass of red Bordeaux tablespoons) Espagnole sauce and 1 glass of red Bordeaux wine. When the sauce has boiled down, strain it through a wine. When the sauce has boiled down, strain it through a cloth, add I tablespoon of the white pine kernels which the cloth, add 1 tablespoon of the wrute pine kernels which the Italians call pignoli.The pignolishould boil for a second in the Italians cali pignoli. The pigno li should boil for a second in the sauce.' (Car€me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe sibcte.) sauce.' (Carême, L'Art de la cuisinefrançaise au X/Xe siècle.) Piquante sauce (for small cuts of meat and various left-over Piquante sauce (forpreuANrE smaU cuts of meat and various left-over meat dishes). sAUcE Make 22dl. pint,scant dl.(1($pint, scantcup) cup) meat disbes). SAUCE PIQUANTE - - Make Diable or (see above) with wine vinegar. or devil/ed devilled sauce sauce (see Diable above) with wine vinegar. Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped gherkins gherkins and and 1I tablespoon tablespoon Add chopped parsley. chopped parsley. Poor man's (for disbes man's sauce sauce 1I (for dishes made made with with left-overs). left-overs). SAUCE sAUcE Poor pAUvRE sorvrurp Colour lightly in I tablespoon butter good PAUVRE HOMME -- Colour lightly in 1 tablespoon butter 1Igood tablespoon flour. flour. Moisten Moisten with with ~* dl. dl. (3(3 tablespoons, tablespoons,scant scint if tablespoon cup) wine wine vinegar, vinegar, boil boil down, down, and and stir stir in in 22 dl. dl. (!({ pin pint, scant cup) t, scant cup) stock stock or or water water with with aa little little meat meat glaze or extract. extract. Season Season $aze or cup) and simmer for a few seconds. and simmer for a few seconds. Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon blanched blanched chopped chopped shallots, shallots, 1I tablespoon tablespoon Add parsley and chopped (3 tablespoons) and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) golden golden chopped parsley breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. The shallot shallot may may be be replaced replaced by by chives, chives, or or both both may may be be The used. used. pAUvRE HoMl,rE Poor man's man's sauce sauce II. If. SAUCE sAUcE PAUVRE Fry in in 1I Poor HOMME -- Fry tablespoon butter butter 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) golden golden tablespoon breadcrumbs. Moisten (3 tablespoons, Moisten with with ~+ dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant i] cup) cup) breadcrumbs. wine vinegar. vinegar. Boil Boil down down and and stir stir in in stock. stock. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few wine moments and finish finish offwith offwith blanched, blanched, chopped chopped shallots shallots and and moments and onions, together with with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped chopped onions, together parsley. parsley. poor man's sauce rrr (English cookery). sAUcE pAUvRE Poor man's sauce m (English cookery). SAUCE PAUVRE HoMME (2 OZ., in butter g: (2 50 g; oz.,!cup) HOMME - Colour Colour lightly lightly in butter 50 ~ cup) chopped onion. (3 tablespoons, scant f, cup) cup) white white onion. Moisten Moisten with with t~ dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, scant wine scant i*l cup) wine vinegar. vinegir. wine and and +~ dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant cup) wine Boil (f, pint, dl. (i Boil down down by by two-thirds, two-thirds, stir sUr in in lj I~ dl. pint, -5-3 cup) consommi made with g. d (1 with 10 l0 ",tp) consommé and and thicken thicken with with brown brown roux roux made g. oz., I tablespoon) (t butter g. and'l 0 o2.,2 OZ. , 1 tablespoon) butter and lOg. OZ., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) flour. Hour. Cookfor Cook for l0minutes. 10 minutes. Finish Finish off off with with I1 dessertspoon dessertspoon capers, capers, I1 dessertspoon dessertspoon chopped chopped parsley parsley and and aa little little cayenne. cayenne. Port (for wine sauce I meat, fowl, gras). Port wine sauce 1 (for meat, fowl, foie foie gras). sAUcE SAUCE AU AU poRTo PORTO -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Madeire Madeira sauce, sauce, replacing replacing the the latter latter with with port port wine. wine.

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Strainingaa sauce sauce through through mustin muslin by by twisting twisting (Iaroa,sse) (Larousse) Straining

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SAUCE SAUCE for 25 Add 22 dl. Add dl. ($ (-t pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Espagnole Espagnole sauce, sauce, boil boil for 25 minutes, minutes, skimming skimming frequentlY. frequently. with 1 and finish Take Take out out the the biuquit bouquet garni garni and finish offthe off the sauce sauce with + redcurrantjelly. port I1 tablespoon glass and glass port and tablespoon redcurrantjelly. - Romaine sauce I (for venison). sAUcE A u nouxNs - Cook Romaine sauce 1 (for venison). SAUCE À LA ROMAINE - Cook to to aa pale pale caramel caramel 3 3 large large lumps lumps of of sugar. sugar. Moisten Moisten with'l with 1 tableJpoon tablespoon vinegar, vinegar, add add 22 dl. dl. (| (1 pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace for game Simmer (* cup) gamefumet. tablespoons (-tcup) sauceind fumet Simmer for aa few sauce and 44 tablespoons few pine minutes. minutes. Strain Strain through through a a cloth. clotho Add Add 1 1 tablespoon tablespoon pine currants and I1 tablespoon kernels, kernels, roasted roasted lightly lightly in in the the oven, oyen, and tablespoon currants and swollen in soaked till and and sultanas, sultanas, washed, washed, soaked tiU swollen in warm warm water, water, and dried. dried . 'Chop nouarNn -- 'Chop A LA le ROMAINE sAUcE À recipe). SAUCE II (old sauce II Romaine Romaine sauce (old recipe). put itit in in aa saucepan saucepan and put heart and celery heart of aa celery up up the the white white part part of of clove of pinch of sugar, aa clove of sugar, coriander, aa pinch of coriander, with with a a good good pinch pinch of glasses Champagne. Champagne. and 22 glasses leaf and garlic, garlic, a a little little basil, basil, bay bay leaf add 22large cooked, add is cooked, celery is When the the celery heat. When low heat. over low Simmer over Simmer large tableand 22 tableconsomm6 and (3 large tablespoons) consommé large tablespoons) tablespoons tablespoons (3 pour in in ~j down, pour Boil down, sauce' Boil (3 tablespoons) Espagnole sauce. tablespoons) Espagnole spootti (3 spoons sauce, the sauce, Strain the again. Strain down again. boil down glass Champagne and boil Champagne and glass the and the little butter butter and add aa little serving add before serving pressuie, and and before using pressure, au cuisine française juice of (Car6me, L'Art la cuisine L'Art de de la lemon.' (Carême, of aa lemon.' frangaise au juice XIXe siicle.) X/xe siècle.) with served with also be be served (for duck; may a]so duck; May sauce (for Rouennaise sauce Rouennaise ({ dl. <-t to the the boil boil 22 dl. Bring to RouENNArsn -- Bring poached eggs). slucE ROUENNAISE eggs). SAUCE poached from Remove from (see above). above). Remove sauce (see Bordelaise sauce pint, seant cttp) Bordelaise scant cup) pint, finely add the the finely and add hot, and sauce hot, the sauce keep the but keep heat, but direct heat, direct freshly with sait, salt, freshly season with Stir, season duck. Stir, Rouen duck. of aa Rouen liver of chopped liver chopped through aa pinch of Strain through of spice. spice. Strain ground pepper pepper and small pinch and aa small ground bain' Keep hot hot ininthe spoon. Keep pressing with wooden spoon. with aa wooden cloth, pressing cloth, the bain-

Red wine wine sauce sauce I.I. sAUcE SAUCE AU AU vIN VIN RoucE ROUGE -See - See Burgundy Burgundy or or Red bourguignonnesauce. sauce. bourguignonne Redwine winesauce sauceIIII(for (for eggs eggs and andfish). 6sb). sAUcE SAUCE AU AU vIN VIN RoUGE ROUGERed Cook in in bu.tter butter +~ dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant t{- cup) cup) vegetable vegetable Cook till soft. mirepoix, seasoned with with thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf leaftill soft. mirepoix,seasoned Pour in in 55 dl. dl. (scant (seant pint,2t pint, 2{- cups) cups) red red wine, wine, add add I1 small small Pour clove garlic, garlic, crushed, crushed, and and aa handful handful of ofmushroom mushroom skins. skins. Boil Boil clove 1 cups) Espagnole down by half. half. Add Add 33 dl. dl. (+ (t pint, pint, l{ Iicups) Espagnole sauce sauce and and downby few tablespoons tablespoons light light stock stock ot or fumet fumet from from the the fish fish being being aa few cooked. Boil Boil down down by by half. half. cooked. Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,l oz., {- cup) cup) butter, butter, and and aa few few drops drops anchovy Add . essence, essence, away away from from heat. heat. Add Add aa pinch pinch of of cayenne. cayenne. Strain' Strain. Red wine wine sauce sauce III III (for (for fish). 6sb). sAUcE SAUCE AU AU vIN VIN RoUGE ROUGE - Cook Cook Red the fish fish in in aa liquor liquor prepared prepared with with +~ dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant I{the cup) vegetable vegetable mirepoix mirepoix cooked cooked in in butter until until soft, soft, 5 5 dl. cup) some (seant pint, pint, 2{ cups) cups) red red wine, wine, 1 clove clove garlic garlic and and sorne (scant mushroom skins. skins. mushroom g. (1+ Boil down down the the liquid liqtùd by by one-third. one-third. Thicken Thicken with 40 g. Boil Compound OZ., 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) Kneaded Kneaded butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound oz., butters). buuers). anchovy essence. 11 Finish Finish offas off as above above with butter butter and anchovy sAUcE (Engltsh cookery). SAUCE , Reform RefomI sauce for mutton cutlets (English cup) Poivrade Poivradc pint, generous cup) Add to 2{ 2~ dl. (scant (seant 1 RÉFORME -- Add nrinrnvn } pint, gherkin, 1I hard-boiled hard-boiled egg composed of I1 gherkin, sauce a garnish composed and (l oz.) pickled tongue and mushrooms, 25 g. (1 white, 22 cooked mushrooms,25 sm ail cooked cookcd truffie, trufHe, ail cut in short strips. all eut I1 small the garnish garnish is added to the sauce, avoid boiling. After the chicken braised chicken Régence sauce sauce for for sweetbreads, oven-roast or braised sweetbreadg oveo-roast R6gence 'Cook without colouring, without colouring, (old recipe). SAUCE RÉGENCE -- 'Cook (old recipe). sAUcE REcsNcs (a OZ., ham g. (4 lean ham cup) lean oz., 1 with 50 g. (2 oz., butter, 100 g. c,rp) butter, oz.,li cup) ] cup) [.12 onions quarters. When the the onions eut in big dice and in quarters. cut in and 1I onion eut cut are almost shallot. add 1I chopped shallot. cooked, add almost cooked, Graves, 'Moisten with (6 tablespoons, cup) Graves, scant I cup) tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1I dl. pint' seant cup) scant cup) boil dl. (-t and add add 22 dl. by two-thirds, two-thirds, and down by boil down $ pint, chicken stock. low heat. heat. stock. Cook Cook over low (f dl. G add 4a dl. 'Rub sieve, add fine sieve, through aa fine 'Rub the onions through the cooked cooked onions (6 tablespoons, tablespoons' pint, seant dl. (6 and'l1 dl. sauce and cups) Demi-glace sauce scant 22 cups) the until the seant down until Boil down stock. Boil chicken stock. cup) concentrated concentrated chicken icant f cup) sauce (Car€me, L'Art cuisine de la la cuisine L'Art de Strain.' (Carême, spoon. Strain.' coat the the spoon. will coat sauce will 1

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marie. marie. livers. chicken livers. with chicken made with also be be made may also This sauce sauce may This piEs' pork, chiefly (for griUed grilled pork, chiefly pigs' sauce (for Sainte-Menehoulde sauce Sainte-Meoehonlde tablelarge tableCook 1I large sAINTE-MENEHouLDE -- Cook sAUcE SAINTE-MENEHOULDE trotters). SAUCE trotters). soft' till soft. butter till tablespoon butter onion inin 1I tablespoon chopped onion finely chopped spoon finely spoon powdered andpowdered thyme and little thyme pinch of and aalittle salt and of salt with aa pinch Siason with Season leaf. bay leaf. bay wine white wine cup)white (6 tablespoons, scant ~$cup) tablespoons, seant dl. (6 with 1I dl. Moisten with Moisten dl. Stirinin22dl. down completely. completely. Stir Boil down vinegar. Boil tablespoon vinegar. and 1I tablespoon and few for aa few Simmer sauce.Sim ($ pint, Demi-glace sauce. pint, seant cup) Demi-glace scint cup) (-t mer for of eachof tablespooneach good heat add 1I tablespoon and add heat and over good seconds over seconds parsley and chervil, andchervil, gherkins and chopped parsley andchopped chopped gherkins mustard, chopped mustard, pinch of ofcayenne. and aapinch and cayenne. sAUcE salmis).SAUCE preparedininsalmis). (for game gamebirds birds prepared sauce (for Salmis sance Salmis scant~j dl.(6(6tablespoons, tablespoons'seant butter'l tiilsoft sofiininbutter Cook tiU sALMrs - - Cook SALMIS 1 dl. carcase' chopped carcase, with the thechopped togetherwith mirepoix, together vegetable mirepoix, cup) vegetable cup) (See gamebeing cooked.(See beingcooked. thegame trimmings ofof the and trimmings skin and skin of woodcock.) Salmisofwoodcock.) WOODCOCK, Salmis WOODCOCK, wine whitewine cup)white scant fcup) tablespoons, scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, with 1Idl. Moisten with Moisten sauce cup)Demi-glace Demi-glacesauce scantcup) dl.(t($pint, Add22dl. down.Add and boil boildown. and pint, scant for Simmerfor lightstock. stock.Simmer gamefumelororlight tablespoons gamefumet or33tablespoons and22or and the backininthe sauceback pressure.Put Putthe thesauce usingpressure. sieve,using andsieve, 25minutes minutes and 25 stock. lightstock. game fumetor orlight pint,scant cup)gamefumet scantcup) panwith dl.(-t(+pint, with22dl. pan strain. andstrain. skimand 20minutes, minutes,skim for20 Sim mer for Simmer pan. saut6pan. thesauté gamearranged arrangedininthe piecesof ofgame thepieces Pourover overthe Pour to coat thickenough enoughtocoat bethick mustbe Thesauce saucemust boiling.The withoutboiling. Heatwithout Heat game. piecesof ofgame. the thepieces AU (oldrecipe). slucnSALMIS su,MlsAU recipe).SAUCE withChampagne Champagne(o]d saucewitb Salmis Salnissauce ChambottleChamsaucepan1- tboUle intoa asaucepan DECHAMPAGNE VIN 'Put into vINDE cHAMrAGNE - -'Put preparedfor fora a partridgesprepared pagne,add trimmingsofof6 6partridges pagne, addthe thetrimmings tablespoons(3(3 and2 2tablespoons shallotsand pieceofofbay leaf,2 2shallots bayleaf, salmis, ia[mis,a apiece forananhohour. thisfumetfor simmerthisfumet andsimmer consomm€ and tablespoons) ur. tablespoons) consommé Add2 2large half.Add downbybyhalf. boilititdown andboil sieveand Strain large througha asieve Strainititthrough sauce. Espagnolesauce. largetablespoons) tablespoons) Espagnole tablespoons tablespoons (3(3large point, properpoint, theproper downtotothe boileddown almostboiled 'When 'Whenthe thesauce sauceisisalmost the downagain againtotothe boilit itdown andboil glassChampagne, Champagne,and pourinto pour intoil it1{glass before and,before clothand, througha ac10th Strainthrough desired coniistency.Strain desiredconsistency. butter. finebutter. serving, littlefine blendinina alittle serving,blend

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française siicle.) au X/Xe XDP siècle.) frangaise au Robert pork). SAUCE sAUcE grilled pork). (for griUed grilled meat, mostly grilled meaf most]y sauce 1I (for Robert sauce ROBERT chopped (3 tablespoons) finely chopped tablespoons) finely tablespoons (3 Cook 22 tablespoons RoBERT -- Cook onion till soft. soft. lard till or lard butter or of butter tablespoon of in 1I tablespoon onion in wine. Moisten white wine. cup) white (6 tablespoons, scant1I cup) tablespoons, scant dl. (6 with 1I dl. Moisten with Boil sauce. (* pint, cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce. pint, seant scant cup) dl. (1 and add add 22 dl. Boil down down and Simmer mustard. tablespoon mustard. Add 1I tablespoon few seconds. seconds. Add for aa few Simmer for Robert onion thecooked cookedonion Sprinkle the norenr -- Sprinkle slucs ROBERT sauce II. II. SAUCE Robert sauce with our lightly, with moistenwith lightly, moisten to col colour allow to flour, allow tablespoon flour, with 1I tablespoon white mustard. offwith mustard. Finish offwith stock.Finish and add add stock. white wine wine and Robert 'Cut 33onions onions RoBERT- -'Cut (oH recipe). sAUcEROBERT recipe). SAUCE IIf (old sauce ID Robert sauce into butter, golden ininclarified clarified butter, aregolden they are till they cook tiU dice, cook into small small dice, drain large tablespoons tablespoons and22large someconsommé consomm6 and with sorne mix with and mix drain and (3 Boil down to thesauce sauceto downthe sauce.Boil (3 large Espagnolesauce. tablespoons) Espagnole large tablespoons) the pepper'aa littlepepper, sugar,aa!ittle littlesugar, mix ininaalittle consistency, mix the desired desired consistency, little 1 tablespoon (Car€,me, L'Art L'Art mustard.' (Carême, fine mustard.' tablespoon fine and'1 vinegar and' little vinegar de au X/Xe siècle.) la cuisine cuisine française dela frangaise au XIXe sibcle.) Roebuck cITEVREUIL sAUcECHEVREUIL(forsmaU of meat).SAUCE smallcuts cutsofmeat). sauce 1I(for Roebucksauce Boil pint, I{-lf cups) ordinary cups)ordinary dl.(1$ pint, one-third 33dl. Boil down down by byone-third Poivrade dl.(3(3 cooking1+dl. ofcooking thecourse course of addingininthe souir, adding Poivrade sauce, tablespoons, little. pouredininlittle littleby by!ittle. redwine, wine,poured cup)red scanti i cup) tablespoons,seant Season cloth. through a aclotho strainthrough andstrain cayenneand withaalittle littlecayenne Season with Roebuck the Proceedasasininthe cHEVREUIL- - Proceed II.SAUCE sAUcECHEVREUIL sauceII. Roebucksauce above game. II forgame. sauceIlfor Poivradesauce usingPepper PepperororPoivrade recipeusing aboverecipe Roebuck cHEvREUIL - (Englishcookery). sAUcECHEVRElflL cookery).SAUCE sauce III (Eoglish Roebuck sauce Cook 40g.g. and40 onionand chopped onion tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) Cook22tablespoons (1(ll ~ OZ., 3 tablespoons) colourtheycolour. untiltbey h^amininbutter butteruntil dicedham tablespoons) diced o2.,3 Add generous{- f pourinin~fdl. tablespoons, generous garni,pour dl.(5(5tablespoons, bouquet garni, AiOaubouquet cup) nothing. downalmost almosttotonothing. andboil boildown winevinegar vinegar and cup)wine

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815 815

SAUCE SAUCE 'To make a salmis with Bordeaux use a bottle of Bordeaux 'To make a salmis with Bordeaux use a bottle of Bordeaux wine in place of the Champagne and for ordinary salmis wine place of the Champagne and for ordinary salmis makeinthe simply with stock, a shallot and a piece of fumet make the fumet sim ply with stock, a shallo! and a piece of bay leaf.' (Car6me, L'Art de la cuisine XIX" frangaise auiuXIxe bay leaf.' (Carême, L'Art de la cuisine française sibcle.) siècle.) Salmis sauce _ with red wine. sAUcE sALMrs AU vrN RoucE Salmis sauce with red wine. SAUCE SALMIS AU VIN ROUGE .Proceed as in the above recipe, using red wine insteadofof Proceed as in the above recipe, using red wine instead white. white. Tarragon sauce (for eggg small cuts of meaf etc.). s.tucr A .Tarragon sauce 1f(for eggs, smalJ cuts of meat, etc.). SAUCE À L'EsrRAcoN - Boil down I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) L'ESTRAGON - Boil down 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scanl 1I cup) white wine with 10 g.. (scant t oz.) tarragon leaves, roughiy white wine with lOg. (seant -!- oz.) tarragon leaves, roughly chopped. Add 2 dl. $ pint, scant cup) Demi-glace ,oui i, chopped. 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) Demi-glace sauce or thickenedAdd brown stock. Boil for a few moments and strain thickened brown stock. Boil for a few moments and strain through a cloth. through cloth. Add Ia tablespoon chopped tarragon. Garnish whatever is 1 tablespoon chopped tarragon. Garnish whatever is toAdd be served with this sauce with tarragon leaves blanched for to be served with Ihis sauce with tarragon leaves blanched for a moment in boiling salted water, cooled in cold water and moment in boiling salted water, cooled in cold water and adrained. drained. Tanagon sauce II. seucp A L'ESTRAGoN - Saut6 the meat or Tarragonsauce SAUCE Â L'ESTRAGON - Sauté the meat or poultry in butter. U. Drain, dilute thejuices in the saucepan with poultry in butter. Drain, dilute the juices in the saucepan with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) white wine, add a hindful of 1chopped dl. (6 tablespoons, seant 1cup) white wine, add a handful of tarragon, boil down, pour in stock or water with chopped tarragon, boil down. pour in stock or water with meat glaze or extract added, and bind with Kneaded butter meat glaze or extract added, and bind with Kneaded buller (see BUTTER, Compound but ters). (seeTarragon BUTTER, Compound bl/llers). sauce III (for poached fowl). seuce A L,rsrRAGoN Tarragon sauce III (for poached fowl). SAUCE Â L'ESTRAGON Put a good handful of tarragon into the white white stock stock in in --which Put a good handful of tarragon into the the chicken was poached. which the chicken was poached. Remove all grease, strain the stock through muslin, boil it _ Remove ail grease, strain the stock through muslin, boil it down, and thicken with arrowroot (corn starch) or potato down, flour. and thicken with arrowroot (corn starch) or potato fiOUL

Finish offwith chopped tarragon. Finish offwith chopped tarragon. Poached fowl served with this sauce is garnished with Poached fowl served with this sauce is garnished with blanched tarragon leaves. blanched tarragon Tortue sauce forleaves. calf's head or other ofral (U.S. variety Tortue sauce for calf's head or other oirai (V.S. variety meats) served 6en torfue'. sAUcE ToRTUE Bring to the boil I mealS) served 'en tortue'. SAUCE TORTUE - Bring to the bol! 1 (6 dl. tablespoons, scant j cup) white wine. Add a sprig of dl. (6 tablespoons, seant 1 cup) white wine. Add a sprig of quarter of a bay thyme, leaf, a sprig of crushed parsley, thyme, quarter of a bay leaf, a sprig of crushed parsley, I1 or or 22 sage leaves, a sprig of rosemary and a sprig of basil. sage leaves, a sprig of rosemary and a sprig of basi!. Cover the pan and allow to infuse over low heat, without Coyer the pan and allow to infuse over low heat, without boiling, for l5 to 20 minutes. Strain. boiling, for 15 to 20 minutes. Strain. j pint, generous Add to2tdl. (scant cup) Add to 2-!- dl. (seant 1pint, generous cup) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 cup) tomato sauce, I dl. (6 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant -!- cup) tomato sauce, 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) light stock aa handful tablespoons, seant i-!- cup) light stock and handful of of niushroom skins. Boil down by half. and Add the strained mushroom skins. Boil down by hall'. Add the strained infusion. infusion. Simmer for few moments, and add a pinch of cayenne, a Sim mer for few moments, and add a pinch of cayenne, a little spice, and 3 tablespoons (scant * cup) Madeiri. Strain little spice, and 3 tablespoons (scant ~ cup) Madeira. Strain through a cloth. through cloth. Tortue asauce with Madeira (old recipe). roRruE AU Tortue sauce with Madeira (old recipe). sAUcE SAUCE TORTUE AU vIN DE raloEnn -'Put into a saucepan I glass dry Madeira, a VIN DE MADÈRE - 'Put into a saucepan 1 glass dry Madeira, a little chopped lean ham, a pinch of mignonetti, a pinch of Jean ham, a pinch of mignonette, a pinch of little chopped pimento, a pinch of cayenne and a chopped shallot. Simmer pimento, pinch of cayenne and a chopped shallot. Simmer over low aheat and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons), over low heat and add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons), consommd, 2large tablespoons (3 large tablespooni) consommé, 2 large tablespoons (3 large tablespoons) well_ wellstirred Espagnole sauce and a little tomato sauce. stirred sauce and a little tomato sauce. 'WhenEspagnole this sauce is boiled down to the desired point, add to this sauce is boiled down to the desired point, add to glass of it f, 'When Madeira. Bring to the boil once oriwice, strain it glass Madeira. Bring to the boil once or twice, strain through a of cloth and, before serving, add a little fresh butter.' through a cloth and, before serving, add a little fresh butter.' (Car€me, L'Art de Ia cuisinefrangaise au (Carême, L'Arf de la cuisine française auXDp XIX"siicle.l siècle.) Venison sauce. sAUcE vENArsoN - See above , Grand Veneur Venisou sauce. SAUCE VENAISON - See above, Grand Veneur sauce. sauce. Venison sauce (old recipe). sAUcE vENArsoN .pour into a Venisol1 sauce SAUCE VENAISON-- 'Pour into a saucepan 1 glass(old oldrecipe). Burgundy wine, 2 tablespoons (3 saucepan 1 glass old Burgundy wine, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) ordinary vinegar, 2 tablespoons (3 tabiespooni) tablespoons) vinegar, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) sugar, the fleshordinary of j lemon with its seeds removed, f pot of sugar, the flesh 1lemon with its seeds removed, t pot of redcurrants. Boilofdown and add 2 tablespoons (3 tableredcurrants. Boil down and add 2 tablespoons (3lablespoons) Espagnole sauce. Boil down again, mixing in at spoons) Espagnole sauce. down again, mixing in at intervals a second glass of Boil Burgundy. When intervals a second glass of Burgundy. Whenthe thesiuce sauceisis

concentrated,strain strainthrough througha acloth.' cloth.'(Car€me, L'Artdedelala concentrated, (Carême, L'Arl cuisinefrangaise XIXesiècle.) sibcle.) cuisine française auauXIX" Victoriasauce saucefor for venisol1 (Englishcookery). cookery). SAUCE sAUcE Victoria _venison(English vrcroRrA- -Add AddI!l+dl.dl. (+pint, pint,~ tcup) portand cup)port and33tablespoons tablespoons VICTORIA (scant *cup) jellytoto2-!-2jdl. cup)redcurrant redcurrantjeUy (scant1fpint, pint,generous dl.(scant gerr"rous (scant cup)Espagnole Espagnolesauce. sauce.Add Add88peppcrcorns, peppercorni, 22cloves, cloves,aa cup) fragmentofcinnamon of cinnamonand andthe peelof thepeel of1Iorange. orange. fragment Boildown down by juiceof byone-third, one-third,add addthe thejuice ofan anorange orangeand andaa .Boil littlecayenne cayenneand andstrain strainthrough through aaclotho cloth. little Yorkshire sauce saucefor forbraised braisedharn hamand and roast roast and and braised braisedduck duck Yorkshire yoRKsHrRE - Cook (English cooking). cooking). SAUCE sAUcEYORKSHlRE large tabletable(English - Cook1I large spoon of peelcut oforange orange peel julienneinin2 cut inina afine dl. ($pint, pint, seant scant spoon fine julienne 2 dl. port. cup) port. cup) Drain the peel. Add the peel. Add 22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) EspagEspagDrain nole sauce sauce and and 1I tablespoon jelly toto the tablespoon redcurrant redcurrant jelly poit. the port. nole Seasonwith pinch of with aa pineh powdered cinnamon of powdered cinnamon and pinih of andaa pinch of Season cayenne and and sim simmer for aa few juice of few moments. moments. Add Add the the juice an of an cayenne mer for orange and and strain. strain. Finish Finish offwith offwith the peel cookcd the orange orange peel cooked in in orange port. port. Zingara sauce (for small sauce (for small culs cuts of of meal meat and poulhy). SAUCE and poultry). sAUcE Zingara julienne composed zTNGARA -- Add Add aa julienne composed of of 1I tablespoon tablespoon each each of of ZINGARA lean cooked cooked ham, pickled tongue ham, pickled tongue and and mushrooms. mushrooms, and and 1I Ican heaped teaspoon teaspoon trumes, truffies, 10 ($ pint, to 22 dl. pint, seant dl. (.~ scant cup) cup) DemiDemiheaped glace sauce sauce cooked cooked with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons lomato tomato sauce sauce and and glace few tablespoons tablespoons mushroom mushroom stock. stock. Season Season with with aa Iittle little aa few paprika and and keep keep warrn wann without without allowing allowing the sauce sauce to to boil. paprika

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COMPOUND WHITE WHITE SAUCES: SAUCES: SAUCES sAUcES COMPOSÉES, coMposEEs, COMPOUND

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BLANCHES BLANCHES-

Aigrelette sauce sauce with with verjuice (old recipe). SAUCE verjuice (old slucr A1GRELEl nrcRrLETrE Aigrelette TE AU VERJUSvERJUS -'Wash 30 verjuice verjuice grapes, grapes, pound them and press AU 'Wash 30 juice out the juice through through aa cloth. cloth. Boil Boil 22 tablespoons (3 tabletablespoons (3 table_ out the spoons) Allemande sauce with wfih aa little spoons) Allemande sauce liUle chicken glaze, aa little butter, of nutmeg and finely ground pepper, and butter, aa pinch pinch of nutmeg and finely ground and enough verjuice enough verjuice to to render render the the sauce sharp and and appetising.' (Car6me, L'Art (Carême, L'Arl de de la la cuisinefrangaise cuisine française au XIX, XIX' sibcii.) siècle.) Albert Albert sauce sauce for for braised braised beef beef (English (English cookery). cookery). sAUcE SAUCE ALBERT ALBERTCook at at boiling boiling point point for for 20 minutes minutes 75 g. (3 (3 oz., oz.,-!- Cook I cup) cup) grated grated horseradish horseradish moistened moistened with with I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespooorl tablespoons, j scant cup) scant ~ cup) light Iight consomm6. consomme. Add cvp) Butter Add l+ l-!- dl. dl. (* pint, pint, t1 cup) Buller sauce sauce II Il I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, and25 tablespoons, scant seant I1 cup) cup) cream cream and 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., OZ., j-!- cup) cup) fine fine breadcrumbs. breaderumbs. Boil Boil down down over over strong strong heat, heat, stirring stirring att ail the the time. time. Strain, Strain, pressing pressing with with spoon. spoon. put Put back back in in the the siucepan, saucepan, thicken thicken with with I1egg_yolk egg yolk and and season season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Finish Finish offwith offwith jt teaspoon teaspoon English English mustard mustard diiuted diluted with with aa few drops vinegar. vinegar. few drops Albuf6ra Albuféra sauce sauce (for (for sweetbreads sweetbreads and and poached poached or or braised braised poultry). poultry). sAUcE SAUCE ALBT.TFERA ALBUFÉRA -- Add Add 22 dl. dl. (+ 0 pint, pint, scant seant cup) eup) Suprhme Suprémesauce sauceto to Ztablespoons 2 tablespoons (3 (3tablespoons) tablespoonslconcentrated concentrated veal veal stock stockand and Il tablespoon tablespoonPimento Pimentobutter buller(see (seeBUTTER). BUTTER). Allemande Allemandesauce saucef1or OJthick truckVelout6 Velouté(for (foroffal oiraior orU.S. U.S.variety vaJiety meats, SAUCE mealS, poached poacbed chicken, chicken, vegetables vegetables and and eggs). eggs). sAUcE ALLEMANDE, For 55dl. dl. (scant (seant pint,2t pint, 2icups) cups) of of ALLEMANDE, vrt-ourE VELOUTÉuf LIÉ-- For sauce sauceput putinto intoaapan panwith withaathick, thick,flat fiatbottom, bottom,22egg eggyolks yolks(3(3ifif they they are are small) small) and and 44 dl. dl. (f;(i}pint, pint, scant scant 22cups; cups) iigirt light veal veal or or chicken chickenstock. stock. Mix Mixtogether. together. Add Add 55dl. dl. (scant (seant pint, pint, 2f 2icups) cups) Veloutb Veloutésauce. sauce.Mix Mixwith withaawhisk. whisk. Begin cooking over over good good heat, heat, stirring stirring with with aa wooden wooden Begin cooking spoon spoontotokeep keepthe thesauce saucefrom from sticking stickingtotothe thebottom bottomofthe of the pan. Boil pan. Boil down down carefully, carefully, until until the the sauce saucecoats coatsthe the spoon. spoon. Add cup) butter, Add50 50g.g.(2(2oz.,* OZ., ±Cup) butter,and andstrain strainthrough throughaacloih. cloth. Keep Keepininthe thebain-marie bain-marieuntil untilready readytotouse. use.Whisk Whiskthe thesauce sauce while whileititisisininthe thebain-marie bain-marieand andbutter butterthe thesurface surfacetotoprevent prevent skin forming. skin forming. Depending Dependingon onits itsuse usethis thissauce saucecan canbe beseasoned seasonedwith witha a pinch pinch of of grated grated nutmeg nlltmeg and and aa squeeze squeeze of oflemon lemolljuice. juice. Allemande (lIsh).sAUcE SAUCEALLElaaNos ALLEMANDE- -proceed Proceedasasinin Allemandesauce saucetrII(fish).

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816 816

SAUCE SAUCE the thepreceding recipe, recipe,using usingfish fish stock slockor fumet inplace in placeoforthe the stock, Veloutésauce sauceininplace place of the stock, and and fish Veloutt Velouté sauce souce the Veloutt made poultrystock. stock. madewith withmeat meatororpoultry

Allemande Allemande sauce sauce m UI

(mushroom (mushroom flavoured). sAUcE SAUCE ALLEMANDE ALLEMANDEAU AUFUMET FUMETDE DECHAMPIGNoNS CHAMP1GNONS-- Proceed as asininfirst first recipe; add Velouté sauce sauce aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofthe the add to to the the Veloutt coo-king juices of ofmushrooms. mushrooms.You Voucan canalso a1soadd, add,inincourse courseof of cooking, cooking,aagood goodhandful handruJofofmushroom mushroomskins skinsand andstalks. slalks. Allemande (truffle flavoured). sAUcE SAUCE ALLEMANDE ALLEMANDE Allemande sauce sauce IV IV (truffie AU AU FUI\IET FUMET DE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES -- As As above. above. Replace the the mushroom mushroom juices of truffies. wÎ th fwne lof t ru mes. -j uiceswithfumet American SAUCEeufnrcllNB AMÉRICAlNE Americansauce sauce(for (forfish, fisb, shellfisl4 sheUfish,eggs). eggs). sAUcE prineiplethis thissauce sauceisisthe theproduct produet of ofpreparing preparinglobster lobsteror or -- InInprinciple ambricaine. crayfish crayfish hà I'J'américaine. ItItisisused usedto tocoat coat braised braised fish, fish, poached poached eggs eggs and and boiled boilcd eggseggs. Anchovy SA.UCE ANcHoIs ANCHOIS -- Add Add to to 22 dl' dl. (t (1 Anchovy sauce sauce I1(for (for fish). fish). sAucE pint, pint, scant seant cup) eup) Normande Normande sauce sauce ot or White White wine wine sauce sauce 22 iablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) anchovy anchovy butter butter or or I1tablespoon tablespoon anchovy or Paste. paste. Strain. Strain. anchovy essence essence or Anchovy D. sAUcE SAUCE ANcHoIs ANCHOlS -- As As above, above, using using Anchovy sauce sauce II. Btchmnel Béchamel sauce sauce instead instead of of Normande Normande sauce. sauce. Butter tsing Anchovy Anchovy sauce sauce III. UI. sAucr SAUCE ANcHoIs ANCHOIS -- As As above, above, using BUller sauce instead of of Normande Normande sauce. sauce. sauce instead Andalouse AndaJouse sauce sauce (for eggg e-ggs., fisho fish, pouttry). sAUcE ANDALoUSE Add to to 22 dl. $ (t pint, scant seant cup) ihrck Velortb sauce,+ sauce, ~ dl. dl. (3 (3 - Add tablespoons, scant seant * cup) eup) tomato tomato essence essence or or strongly strongly conconcentraied tomato pur6e. purée. Add Add 22 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) ccntrated tomato sweet and cut cut in in dice, dice. sweet pimentos pimentos thit that have have been been peeled, peeled, braised and and I1 teaspoon leaspoon choPPed chopped ParsleY' parsley. This Tbis sauce sauce may may be seasoned seasoned with with aa little little grated grated garlic' garlic. sweetbreads). seucE poultry, sweetbreads). sauce (for Aurora Aurora sauce (for eggs, poultry, SAUCE cup) Velout| sauce \dl' scant cup) ,c,unoRE AURORE -- Add to \0 2 2 dl. (* pi"t, seant dl. (3 (3 tomato purde. thick tomato scant 1 tablespoons, tatlJes.pc1on.s, seant very thick i cup) very strain. butter and strain. g. (2 OZ., oz., leup) Finish offwith 50 g. I cup) butter variety U.S. varidy or V.s. poultry, offaI ofral or (for eggs, eggg poultry, sauce (for Banquiire sauce Banquière pint' dl. (~ to 22 dl. Add to snNQudns -- Add slucr BANQUIÈRE $ pint, vol-au-venQ. SAUCE meats, vol-au-vent). cup) (3 tablespoons, scant ± tablespoons' seant dl. (3 sauce t dl. I cup) cup) Suprême SuprOme sauce scant cup) seant table' with 22 tableoff with Finish off cloth. Finish through aa cloth. Striin through Madeira. Su'ain Madeira. truffies. (3 tabJespoons) chopped truffies. tablespoons) chopped spoons (3 spoons sAUcE vegetables). SAUCE fish and and vegetables). (for boiled boiled fish sauce (for B0tarde sauce Bâtarde sauce. Butter sauce. See Buller sArlRDs -- See BÂTARDE grilled 6sh). fish)' meat' grilled (for grllled griiled or sauteed meat, or sautéed sauce (for B6arnaise sauce Béarnaise chopped tablespoon chopped saucepan into aa sa Put into sfenNArsr -- Put sAUcE IlÉARNAJSE SAUCE ueepan 1I tablespoon and chopped (3 tablespoons) tarragon and shallot, 22 tablespoons (3 shallol, leaf. Moisten and aa fragment of bay lear. chervil, aa sprig of thyme, and chervil, white and white vinegar and each vinegar cup) each scant iI cup) tablespoons, seant dl. (3 tablespoons, with t+dl. with pinch of mignonette of mignonette pinch of salt and and aa pineh of salt with aa pinch Season with wine. Season wine. the into tbe Put ioto cool. Put to cool. Allow to two-thirds. AHow by two-thirds. Boil down down by pepper. Boil pepper. Beat the the water. Beat with 1I tablespoon water. mixed with pun 2Z raw tu* egg egg yolks mixed pan yolks the yolks as the soonas heat. As soon verylow low heat. over very with ai wtrist over iauce with sauce butter, (4 oz., fresh butter. g.(4 cup) fresh oz., 1 100 g. incorporate 100 to thicken, thicken, incorporate 1cup) begin to begjn time. allthe the time. whisking ail little, whisking little by by little, little of squeeze of withaasqueeze sharpen ilitififnecessary with the sauce, sharpeo Season the Scason offwith Finish off juice and ofcayenne. cayenne. Strain. Finish and aa pinch of lemon lem on juice with 11 Keep chervil.Keep andcherviJ. tarragon and choppedtarragon each ofchopped tablespoon each tablcspoon warmininabain-marie. warm a bain-marie. (for sauce(for Choron sauce orChoron flavoured,or tomato flavoured, sauce'tomato B6arnaise sauce, Béarnaise dl'(t(+ Add22dl. cHoRoN- -Add sAUcECHORON nfr,RNAlsE, SAUCE sAUcEBÉARNAISE, grittertmeat). meat).SAUCE good tabletablesaucetoto22good B1arnaise sauce strained BéarnO/~çe pint,scant cup)strained scantcup) puree' tomato purée. concentratedtomato goodtablespoons) tablespoons) concentrated ipoons (3(3good spoons gri[ed andgrilled meatand sauteed me.at (forgrilled andsautéed sauce(for Beauharnais sauce Beaubarnais Srilledand cup) pint,seant scantcup) Add22dl.dl. (+pint, BEAUHARNAIs- - Add fish).SAUCE slucrBEAUHARNA1S fish). good good tablespoons (3(3good saucetoto22good Bbarnaisesauce strainedBéarnaise strained (see BUTTER,ComCom' butter(sec greenTarragon Tarragon bulfer tablespoons)green tablcspoons)

gently in butter without letting it colour' chopped shallot shallot gently in butter without (6 tablespoons, scant j cup) white wine and Moisien with dl. (6tablespoons, seant withI 1dl. cup)fishfumet1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, seant t cup) 6shfumet. Veloutt Add 2 dl. pint, scant cup) Boil Boil doWn downby by half. balf. Add 2 dl. $G pint, sean! cup) Velouté stock. Cook at boiling point for a few fish on based sauce sauce based on fish stock. Cook at boiling for a rew Add, away from the heat, 50 g. (2 good moments momentsover over goodheat. heat. Add, away from parsley. heat, Do 50 g. not(2 chopped I tablespoon and oz., oz.,{ cup) cup)butter, butter, and 1 tablespoon chopped parsley. Do not strain. strain. (for gdned meat and poultry). sAUcE Bontemps Bontemps sauce sauce (for Cook tablespoon finely chopped onion in BoNTEMps BONTEMPS - Cook 1 pinch of salt and a little paprika. Pour in butter. butter.Season Seasonwith withaa pinch and a Pour in (* pint, scant cup) cider' Boil down by two-thirds. 22dl. dl.
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(3 tablespoons) fish Allemandc sauce, ia.rcepan saucepan 22tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespooos) fish Allemande sauce,

pinch of grated nutmeg, a pinch of finely 33 .gg egg yolks, yolks, aa pinch of grated nutmeg, a juice pinchofofa finely large pepper, a little pounded garlic' lhe grou"d ground pepper, a !iule pounded garlic. the juice seasoning of a large having mixed this After salt. a little anO i.-otr lemon and a little salt. After having mixed this seasoning

on some hot cinders, stirring all the perfectly, set set the the saucepan on some hot cinders, the perfectly thick and velvety sauce. Take it off iime to to bbtuitt obtaîn aa thiek and velvety sauce. il off glasses spoonful, by in, spoonful mix the order ta mix spoonful, 11 glasses the heat heal in in ordeito oil. Add the juice of a lemon and I good or a lemon and 1 good oil, oil, Provengal Provençal olive olive oil. blanched chervil or tarragon'' and chopped iablespoon tablespoon chopped and blanehed chervil or larragon.· d.e la cuisinefrangaise au XDtre sibcle') (Car6me, L'Art au XIX siècle.) (Carême, L'Art de la poultry and roast game birds @nglish Bread Bread sauce sauce for for pxN (3 cups) g. o2.,1|birds Put 75 au cookery). sAUcE SAUCE AU PAIN 75 g. oz., H eups) -fre.gftlV into 5 dl. (scant pint,2tcups) boiling pr.p"t.i breadcrumbs cups) breadcrumbs into 5 dl. (seant pint, 2~ 25 g. (lboiling oz',2 onion studded with a clove, small onion *utit. water. Add Add Il small st udded with a clove, 25 g. (1 oz., 2 to the boil, bring Mix, salt. pinch of a and tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter and a pinch orsalt. Mix, the boil, add and the onion out 15 minutes. Take for 15 cook gently for and cook minutes. Take out the and add and (O tuUtespoons, scant ! cup) cream. Whisk sauie 1I dt. (6 to the sauce to the tablespoons, seant 1 cup) cream. Whisk smooth. until untiJ smooth. (for eggs, fish, white meat, Poultry' ofral 91 sauce (for Breton sauce Bretoll eggs., fish. white meat, sAUcE BREToNNE - Prepare afi\eiulienne ot-i meats). SAUCE variety meats). BRETONNE a and I celery heart' onion, the white of a leek and medium-sized ...... "·n .. 'rn_'''·,.''n onion, the white of a celery hearl. a pinch of salt and a little sugar. Cook slowly till with Season til! Season with a pineh of salt and a liule sugar. Cook slowly (3 tabletablespoons 2 Add butter' I tablespoon with soft with 1 tablespoon butter. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablesoft julienne. in cut mushrooms uncooked mushrooms spoons) ^ uncooked eut in julienne. dl. (3 tablespoons' scalt I cup) white wine' with 1 Moiiten with + dl. (3 lablcspoons, seant ~ cup) white wine. almost nothing, add l| dl' $ pint, t cup) Veloutb to down Boil Velouté Boil dowo ta almost nothing, add 11dl. (~pint,toleup) the final use' meat or fish stock, according saucebasedon based on meat or fish stock, according to the final heat' use. sauce strong over few moments point a for at boiling boiling Cook at Cook for a few moments Iover strong heat. thick fresh butter and tablespoon oi., icup) Add 50 50 g. Q OZ., e. (2 cup) rresh butter and 1 tablespoon thick Add Do not strain. cream. Do fresh cream. not serain. fresh sauce is to accompany braised fish, the latter Breton sauce When Breton is to accompany braised fish, the latter When indicated above, moistened with a in the iulienne indicated cook in must cook above, moistcnoo with a must the fish is After ot white wine. fish/umet or few tablespoons of nshfwnet few white wine. After the fish is sauce as shown above. offthe cooked finish off cooked the sauce as shown above. Butter sauce sauce I or Bitarde sauce (for vegetableg boiled fish)' J or Bâtarde sauce (for vegetables, boiled fish). Butter sAUcE AU BEURRE, sAUcE sArenpe Melt in a saucepan2l g' SAUCE AU BEURRE, SAUCE BÂTARDE - - Melt in a saucepan 25 g. add 25 g.(l oz., I cup) flour, butter,add (l o2.,22 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, (1 oz., 25 g. (1pint, oz.,generous i cup) flour. cup) dl. (scant 2| with moisten and mix, mJx, and moisten with 2! dl. (seant t pint, generous cup) water. salted boiling boiling salted water. vigorously with a whisk, and add I egg mixture vigorously Stiithe Stir the mixture with a whisk, and add 1 egg tablespoon cold water. I with yolk mixed yolk nllxed with 1 tablespoon coldg.water. very low heat, 100 (a oz., I cup) fresh butter oververy Add,over Add, low heat, 100 (4 oz., ! eup) fresh butter pieces, stirring all the time. Season the sauce smallpieces, intosmall cutinto cut stirring the lime. Season the sauce be sharpened with a few drops of lemon may strain.IlItmay be andstrain. and sharpened with a few drops of lemon juice. 'Butter sauce (English cookery). sAUcE AU BzuRRE A cookery). SAUCE AU BEURRE oz',À2 as above using 25 g. Proceed L'ANGLAIsE L'ANGLAISE as above using 25 g. (1 OZ., 2 (l flour. g. cup) oz.,| and25 butter tablespoons) butter and 25 g. (1 oz., eup) fiOUL tablespoons) the sauce with egg yolk. notthicken thickenthe Donot Do sauce with egg yolk. Butter sauce III (old recipe). sAUcE AU BEuRRE -'Put into a Butter sauce ID SAUCE AU BEURRE - 'Put into a 1 small tablespoon flour and a little butter. Stir with saucepan saucepan 1 small a little butter. Stir with

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poundblillers). butters). pound

AddOnion Onion souBIsE- -Add nfcnurlnrSOUBISE onion.BECHAMEL withonJon. saucewith B6chamelsauce Bi!chamel sauce. B1charnelsauce. (seePURÉE) PUREE)totoBéchamel purbe ( soubdsel(see purée tablespoon Cook1 Itablespoon BERcY- -Cook seucnIlERCY fish).SAUCE sauce (forfish). Bercysauce &rcy 817 817

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SAUCE SAUCE a wooden spoon. Add j glass water or consommd, a little salt a and wood en spoon. Addandglass water or consommé, a little salt grated nutmeg the juice of j lemon. Stir over brisk and grated nutmeg and the juice of ~ lemon. Stir over brisk heat, and as soon as it comes to the-boil, remove the sauce. heat, soonpiece as it cornes to the boil, remove the sauce. Mix and in aasgood of butter. The sauce should then good smooth piece ofand butter. The sauce should then bebe Mix in a very excellent to the taste., (Car€me, 1e_lvety, velvety, smooth and excellent to the taste.' (Carême, L'Art devery la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe siicle.) L'Art cuisinefrançaise au XIXe siècle.) In de hislaTraiti des petites sauces, Car€me gives a variety of In his Traité des petites sauces, Carême a variety of white sauces deriving from this sauce. In modern practici all white sauces deriving from this sauce. In practice aIl

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sauce as these prepared usingrecipes Allemande sauce or Suprême sauce as theirare base, and their are given in their alphabeticar their base, and their recipes are given in their alphabetical order. order. Butter sauce with chervil (old recipe). sAUcE AU neunRr A rA, Butter DE sauce witb chenil SAUCE AU BEURRE À LA pLUcHE CERFETnL -'Bring to the boil in a saucepan I large PLUCHE DE CERFEUIL to the in a saucepan 1 tablespoon Butter squce, add_ing to it a little salt, i"pp", aiA tablespoon Buller sauce, to it a little salt, pepper exaled nutmeg, the juice of f lemon, a good pl"i i,i butter grated nutmeg, theblanched juice of 1lemon, a good piece of butter and I tablespoon chervil leaves-., (Cai0me, L'Art de and 1 tablespoon blanched chervilleaves.' (Carême, L'Art de la caisinefrangaise au XIXe sibcle.\ e la cuisine française au X lX siècle.) Caper (for sauce I boiled fish). s,ruce eux cApnrs _ Add to _ sauce 1 (for boiled fish). SAUCE AUX CÂPRES - Add to 2i dl. (scant generous cup) Hollandatse sauce 2 I pint, (seant 1 Hollandaise sauce 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) well-drained capers. tat.lespolons (3 prbceed Caper sauce If. sAUcE ,l,ux cApnss - capers. above, sauce n. SAUCE AUX CÂPRES - Proceed asasabove, using Butter sauce, using sauce. Caper sauce IIf, English (for boiled fish). sAUcE Aux cApnns . Caper sauce III, English (for boiled fish). SAUCE AUX CÂPRES A l',q,Nclxsn - Prepare Butter sauce 1/. Finish it offwith well_ À L'ANGLAISE - Prepare Butter sauce Il. Finish it offwith welldrained capers and a little anchovy essence. drained capers and a little anchovy essence. Ca1rc-r sauce IV, tr'nglich (for boiled leg of mutton). sAUcE English (forprepare of mution). SAUCE .lux cApnrs A L'ANcLl,rsE roui as as for for - boiled lega-white white roux English ButterA sauce, moisten it with theacooking broth of of the the English Buller sauce, moisten it the cooking broth mutton. Cook the sauce, strain it, finish offwith the capers. mutton. Cook the sauce, strain it, finish offwith the capers. sauce made with water can be served with boiied leg _Caper sauce with water can be served with boiled leg of Caper mutton. Thismade sauce is also served with boiled rabbit. ofmutton. This sauce is also served with boiled rabbit. sauce f (for fish). sAUcE cARDTNAL _ Boil down by . Cardinal 9^Tqp4 sauce 1 (for fish). SAUCE CARDINAL - Boil down by half 2 dl. (3,anint, scant cup) Velout| sauce based on fish stoc( half2 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) Velouté sauce based on fish stock, an{ | $t. scant fishfumet. and 1 dLI dl. (6 tablespoons, scant *cup) nshfumet. Add scant lcup) iream, simmer for a -fewAdd 1 (6 scant cup) m, sim mer for a moments, remove from heat, aOA crea SO g. (2 oz., * cup) few moments, remove from heat, add 50 g. (2 oz., i cup) Lobster o! SpW lobster butter (see BUTTER) a piich oi Lobster or Spiny lobs ter butter (see BUTTER) a pinch of cayenne. Strain through a cloth. Add I tablespoon ihopped cayenne. Strain through a clotho Add 1 tablespoon chopped truffes. truffies. When this sauce is used for fish garnished with slices of When thisout sauce is used for fish garnished with slices of trufle, leave the chopped truffies. truffie, leavesauce out the chopped truffies. Cardinal proceed as If. cARDTNAL n. sAUcE SAUCE CARDINAL - Proceed as above, aoove, Cardinal replacing thesauce Velouti sauceby Bbchanel sauce. replacing the Velouté sauce by Béchamel sauce. Celery sauce for boiled and braised poultuy (English cook_ Celery sauce for boiled and braised poultry (English cookery). mucn AU cELERT - put into a siutd pbn th-e trimmed ery). SAUCE AU CELERI - Put into a sauté pan the trimmed hearts of 3 heads of celery. Add a bouquet garni and.I small heartsstuck of 3 heads Add a garni and 1 sma]] onion with a clove. Cover with light consommd. Cook onion stuck with a clove. with consommé. Cook slowly. Drain the celery, pound it, and iieve into a saucepan. slowly. Drain the celery, pound it, and into a sallcepa11. Add to it an equal quantity of Cream sauce,dilute with I or 2 Add to it an of Cream sauce, dilute with or 2 poncentrated tablespoons of thequantity celery tablespoons the concentrated celery cooking cooking liquor liquor and and mix well. Heat without allowing to boil. mix weil. Reat without a1lowing to boil. Chantilly sauce (for poultry and white offal or U.S. varietv Chantilly sauce (for and white olfal or U.S. meats). sAUcE cHANrrLry - Blend 2 dl. (+ pint, scant cup') SAUCE CHANTILLY 2 dl. (t pint, seant thick SuprAme sauce with I dl. (6 tablesp6orrr, ica"t j cuii whippedcream. sauce with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cream. White chaud-froid sauce f (for eggq podtry, chaud-froid sauce 1 (for eggs, poultry, wbite white offal olfaJ or or U.S. varietymeab). sAUcE cHAUD-FRorD BLANcnn_put into a U.S. variety meats). SAUCE CHAUD-FROID BLANCHE - Put into a thick-bottomed saut6 pan 3+ dl. (generous { pint, l* cups) thick-bottomed sauté pan 3-t dl. (generous i Yelouti sauce and,l dl. (6 tablespoons, Velouté sauce and 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scuriti scant cup)-mush_ rcom Boil down over good heat, fwnet. stirring- with a room fumet. Boil down over good heat, wooden spoon. Add, a little at a time, 4 dl. (t pinl, scant 2 wooden Add, a !ittle at a time, 4 dl. cups) chicken or veal jelly and lj dl. (} pint, cups) or veal jelly and (i pint,i.ui) ceam. Boil down until the sauce will Boil down until the sauce willcoat coatthe thespoon. spoon.to bebecertain certain ofthis consistency, chill on ice a sman quantity of the sauce. If ofthisconsistency, chili on ice a small quantity of the sauce. it is-not firm enough add a few more tablespoons ofjelly andIf it is not firm enough add a few more tablespoons of jelly and boil down again. boil down again. Strain the sauce and whisk until it is quite cold. Strain the sauce and whisk until it is cold. Depending on its final use, saucemay Depending on its final use,chaud-froid ChlZUQ'-fr,Ola maybebeleft !eftasas

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flavouredwith withwine winesuch suchasasMadeira, Madeira,sherry, sherry,etc., etc., it itis isororflavoured whichis isadded addedtotothe thesauce saucewhen whenit it1S isalmost almostcold. cold. which Whitchaud-froid chaud-froidsauce sauceTItI(for (forfish fishand andshellfish). shellfish).SAUCE sAUcE Whit CHAUD-FROID BLANCIIE MAICNT _ PTOCCCd AS fOr Whitc ChAUdCHAUD-FROID BLANCHE MAIGRE - Proceed as for White chaudsauce1 1using usingVeloute veloutesauce saucebased froidsauce basedon onfish fishstock stockand andfish fish froid aspic jelly in placeofmeat of meatVelouté Velout|sauce sauce and jelly.Strain. Strain. andjelly. Chaud-froidsauce sauceà i l'aJJemande. lrallemande.SAUCE sAUcECHAUD-FROID crnuo_rnonÀ A UllaU(]-lrrOII(] L'ALLEMANDr- -Proceed Proceedasasfor forWhite Whitechaud-froid chaud-froidsauce sauce1,I, L'ALLEMANDE replacingthe theVelouté Velout|sauce saucewith Allemandesauce. saice. replacing with Allemande Reduce proportion the creamadded addedininthe thecourse courseofof Reduce the proportion ofofcream cookingsosothat thatthe thesauce sauceisisless lessthick thickininconsistency. consistencv. Flavour Flavour with Madeiraororother othersimilar similarwine. wine Chaud-froid sauce sauceà i l'andalouse. I'andalouse.SAUCE sAUcECHAUD-FROID cueuo_rnon ÀA Chaud-froid L'ANDALoUSE- -Prepare Preparethe thesauce sauceasasfor forChaud-froid Chaud-froidsauce L'ANDALOUSE sauce1.L Flavour ititwith withsherry sheiryand andadd add22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3iablespoons) Flavour tablespoons) orange peelcut cutininaavery julienne,blanched, veryfine finejulienne, blanched,cooled cooledinin orange water anddrained. drained. water Chaud-froid sauce sauceài l'aurore. I'luore. SAUCE sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cneuo-rnopÀA Chaud-froid L'AuRoRE - Add AddtotoWhite Whitechaud-froid chmtd-froidsauce sauce113 tablespoons L'AURORE 3 tablespoons (scanti *cup) cup) concentrated concentratedtomato puree. Strain. tomato purée. Strain. (scant Chaud-froidsauce sauceài la tabanquière. banquiire. SAUCE sAUcECHAUD-FROID cHAr,JD_FRoro Ài LA Chaud-froid u r.rNqurtnr -- Add Addstrained strained, White l4thitechaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce1I to BANQUIÈRE tofinely finelv chopped truffies. trufles. Add Add 33 tablespoons (scant (scinti *cup) cup)Madeira. Madeira.

Chaud-froid sauoe Beauhamais. SAUCE sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cHAUD_FRorD

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Colour White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce 1 before before straining with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pur6e of green of green herbs (tarragon and and chervil) blanchid, in in water, liater, "ooled drained and and rubbed rubbed through through aa fine sieve. sieve. drained Chaud-froid sauce, sauce, blonde. blonde. SAUCE sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cHAUD-FRorD BLONDE Chaud-froid BLoNDE -_ Add to to White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce 1^I during during cooking cooking 22 tableAdd table_ (3 tablespoons) spoons (3 tablespoons) blond blond chicken chicken glaze, g)aie, and andstiain. strain. Chaud-froid sauce sauce à l'écossaise. l'6cossaise. SAUCE sAUcE CHAUD-FROID cnluo-rnon ÀA r'6coss,cJsn -- Add Add to to White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce 1, I, finished L'ÉCOSSAISE finished and and strained, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine fine brunoise strained, brunoise of of carrot, the part white of leek leek and celery, aIl all cooked cooked gently in carrot, the white part of in light stock, stock, also also 1I tablespoon diced pickled tongue diced pickled tongie and 1t light tablespoon "rrh diced truffies. trufres. Flavour Flavour with Madeira. Madeira. tablespoon diced Chaud-froid sauce sauce ài la la hongroise. Chaud-froid hOll{!foise. sAUcE cHAUD-FRoro A re, HoNcRorsE I, in course of HONGROISE -- Add Add to to White chaud-froid sauce 1, 2 (3 tabJespoons) tablespoons) finely chopped onion cooking, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 "99ryn9, which (O which has has been been blanched, blanched, drained drained and and cobkedli, cooked 1f dl. Af. (6 scant *1 cup) white tablespoons, scant white wine till no liquid remains. remains. lablespoons, "up) of paprika. Season good pinch pinch of paprika. Strain thrbugh through aa cloth. clotho Season with with aa good Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce à I'indienne. l'indienne. sAUcE SAUCE cnluo-r.non CHAUD-FROID i, À L'TNDTENNE L'INDIENNE -- Proceed Proceed as above. Season the the chopped onion with with I1teaspoon curry. Strain Strain through through aa cloth. clotho Chaud-froid h~IIf1,_lr,rll1f1 sauce sauce à la la Nantua. Nantua. sAUcE SAUCE cHAUD-FRorn CHAUD-FROID A À r,c, LA NANTUA NANTUA -- Recommended Recommended for for fish fish and and shellfish. shellfish. Add Add to to the the ordinary ordinary White White chud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce .I/ Il before before straining straining 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) crayfish crayfish purde. purée. Strain, Strain, and and add add I1tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped trufres. truffies. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauce drà la la royale. sl,ucE SAUCE cHAUD-FRoro CHAUD-FROID A À r.l LA noyrrn dto ROYALE-- Ad Add to Whtte chaud-froid sauce d before straining, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) truffie purde diluted with- t1 tablespoon ta blespoonsherry. sherry. Chaud-froid Chaud-froid sauce sauceiàlala sicilienne. sicilienne. sAUcE SAUCEcHAUD-FRoro CHAUD-FROID AÀ LA SIcTLTENNE SICILIENNE - Add Add to to the the White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce I,1, before before tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, Iraininq, 22 tablespoons blanched, uW'U'-""'-"'''', pounded pounded finely finely in in aa mortar, mortar, dilutbd diluted with with aa little !iule cream creamand andput putthrough throughaafine finesieve. sieve. Chivry sauce saucef 1(for (foreggs eggsand andpoulty). sAUcE SAUCEcHrvRy CHIVRY_- Boil Boil dgy"_l dl. (6(6tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant Cup) cup)white whitewine wine by byhalf half with teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped shalloi shallot anA and 1hrge large tablespoon tablespoon chopped choppedchervil cherviland andtarragon. tarragon. Add2 Add 2dl. dl.$ pint, scant scantcup) cup)chicken chickenVelout| Veloutésauce sauceand.l and 1dl. dl. (6(6tablespoons, scant* cup) cup)white whitestock. stock.Boil Boildown downby one_ onetablespoons,scant third. third.Add Add22large tablespoons (3(3large tablespoonsi frn_ Printanier butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters).-Strun. BEAUHARNATS

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SAUCE SAUCE Chivry Chivrysaucrc sauceIIn(for (forbraised braisedfish). 6sh).s,r,ucr SAUCEcruvnv CHIVRY- -Proceed Proceedasas above, above,rbplacing replacingthe thechicken chickenVelout| Veloutésauce saucewith withVelout0 Veloutésauce sauce basedon onfish fishstock stockand andthe thewhite whitestock stockby byfish fishstock stockorfurnet' orfumet. based Choron Choronsauce sauce(for (forgri[ed grilledand andsaut6ed sautéedmeat). Meat).sAUcE SAUCEcHoRoN CHORON Thesame sameasasBtarnaise Béarnaisesauce saucetomato tomatoflavoured. flavoured. --The Crayfish sauce sauce 1for for fish fish (English (English cookery). sAUcE SAUCE AUx AUX Crayfish for as Proceed t'.e,NGLAlsE A o'fcnrvlssss QUEUES D'ÉCREVISSES À L'ANGLAISE as for Lobster Lobster auEUFi Il.Replace Replacethe thelobster lobsterby bydiced dicedcrayfish crayfishtails. tails. sauceII. sauce Crayfish sauce sauce II (old recipe). recipe). sAucE SAUCE I'ux AUX fcnnvtssEs ÉCREVISSES 'Wash 50 medium-sized meonlm-sl,~oocrayfish crayfishand andcook cookthem themwith withj! bottle bottle Champagne, I1chopped chopped onion, onion, aa bouquet bouquet garni, garni, aa pinch pinch of of Champagne, mignonetteand and aalittie Iittlesalt. salt.When Whenthe thecrayfish crayfishare arecold, cold, drain drain mignoneite them and and strain strain the the cooking cooking liquor liquor through through aa silk silk strainer' strainer. them down by by half, half, and and add add 22 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Boil down Boil Allemande sauce. sauce. Boil Boil down down to to the the desired consistency and and Allemande add add {1- glass Champagne' Strain the sauce through a cloth' glaze-and best butter, and the shelled crayfish Add a e.dO-alitUe tails. tails. 'Add 'Add to to the the sauce sauce crayfish butter butter made made from from the the crayfish crayfish shells.' (Car0me, (Carême, L'Art L'Art de de la cuisinefrmtgaise cuisine française au au XIXe X/Xe sibcle') siècle.) shells.' Cream saucrc sauce (for (for vegetableg vegetables, fish, fish, eggg eggs, poulfry'). poultry). slucs SAUCE AÀ LA Cream CRÈME - Boil Boil down down by by one-third one-third 2 2 dl. dl. (+
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Allemande sauce- Add a small infusion of down downmix mixininsome sorne Allemande sauce. Add a small infusion of so as to colour it yellow, then strain through a cloth' saffron saf1ron so as to colour it then strain through a clotho put in a little butter and 3 punnets of small Before butter and 3 punnets of smaU Beforeserving, serving, put in a mushrooms. mushrooms: green gherkins cut to look like olives can be added to 'Small 'Small green gherkins cut to look Iike olives can beau added XIXeto (Cir€me, L'Art de Ia caisine saud.' this this sauce.' (Carême, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise française au X/xe

siicle.)

sauce or Riche saucc (for fish). sAUcE DIPLoMATE, Diplomat Dilplo,m~lt sauce or Riche sauce (for SAUCE DIPLOMATE,

Add 2 dl. pint, scant cup) Normande sauce to slucn SAUCEnrcne ruCHE-- Add 2 dl.$(t pint, Normande sauce to 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons).Lobsler butter (see BUTTER)' 2 tablespoons (3 Lobster (see and a pinch of cayenne' Strain brandy, iablespoon I Add Add 1 and a pinch of cayenne.

through through a cloth. separately, add to it I tablespoon IfIf this this sauce sauce isis served served add to it 1 tablespoon I tablespoon diced lobster flesh' and trufres diced diced truffies and 1 tablespoon lobster flesh. sauce I (for eggs, poultry and white ofral or U'S' Ecossaise offal or V.S. Écossaise sauce 1 (for eggs, poultry and white fcossHsu Add 2 dl. pint' scani cupl variety variety meats). Meats). s.lucn SAUCE ÉCOSSAISE-- Add 2 dl. $ scant cup) (3 scaot tablespoons, dl. to *i cup) strainld strained Cream Cream sauce sauce to +1 dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cup) cooked in butter until soft. Add diced vegetable vegetable brunoise brunoise cooked in butter until soft. Add diced to the usual vegetables. French beans beans to the usual velsetables. as above' sauce II. sAUcE fcosxsn -- Proceed Ecocsaise EcOSS;aj~.e sauce n. SAUCE Proceed as ab ove. sauce by Allemande sauce. Replace thecream the cream sauce by Allemande sauce. III. sAUcE fcossersr As above, with E"ou*"i." EcOSSiaJSie sauce sauce m. SAUCE ÉCOSSAISE - As above, with wine sauce. White White wine sauce. fish, chiefly haddock and cod (Engltsh Egg Egg sauce sauce for for fish, chlefly haddock and cod (Engtish sAUcE Atx oEUFs A i'lNclusn - Stir 2j dl' (scant cookery). SAUCE AUX OEUFS À L'ANGLAISE - Stir 2i dl. (scant -ofTty; milk into a white roax cor-nPosed pint, ginerous cup) cup) boiling boiling milk into a white roux cOJmpos~xt butter and 15 e. (tr oz" V Lr ro-g. (l oz., i.tubl"tpoons) 2 butter and 15 pepper g. oz., and2 salt, white Season with salt, tablesioons) flour. Season white and the Finish minutes. for 6 cook and nutmeg. Bring to to the the boil boil and cook for 6 minutes. the eggs cut in dice. hard-boiled 2 hot with sauce sauce with 2 hard-boiled eggs cut in dice. sauce for large boiled fish (English TokuIV): and butter Egg and Egg butter sauce for large boiled 6sb (English cookery). oELrFs AU BEURRE -400 tOO g. (4 oz.,* cup) melted Atrx sAucE SAUCE AUX OEUFS AU BEURRE - Add 100 g. (4 oz., t cup) melted pepper and a squeeze'of lemon juice salt, with salt, pepper seasoned with butter seasoned butter and a squeeze of lemonjuice eggs cut in large dice, and I teaspoon hard-boiled 2 hot to to 2 hot hard-boiled eggs cut in large dice, and l teaspoon blanched ParsleY. and blanched chopped and chopped sAUcE AUx oEttFs A r"'fcossene sauce àdr l'6cossaise. SAUCE E-gg sauce Egg AUX OEUFS À L'ÉCOSSAISE as above. Add the egg whites cut in small sauce as the sauce Prefrre the above. Add the egg whites cut inthreads small pressed into vermicelli-like yolks pressed the yolks and the striis, and into vermicelli-like threads strainer. through aa strainer. through so that the pieces of egg can be seen' lightly so very Iightly Mii very Mix that the pieces of egg can be seen. Sauce i Panglaise for poultry (old recipe)' or Sauce satroe or English sauce Engtisb à l'anglaise for poultry (old recipe). L'ANGLATsE -'Chop the yolks of 4 hard-boiled eggs s.luciA SAUCE À L'ANGLAiSE - 'Chop the yolks of 4 hard-boiled saucepan, with enough half-in aa saucepan, them, in mix them, very finely, finely, mix very with sauce an entrte. Add a pinch of sauceto Veloutt sauce thiikened Velouté thickened to saucejuice an entrée. Add a lemon and a little of the grated nutmeg, pepper and and grated nutmeg, the juice of 1I 1emon (Car6me, L'Art de la caisine frangaise au butter'. (Carême, iniiovy butter', L'Art de la cuisine française au XIXg sibcle.) X/Xe sauce for roast game birds (old butter and bread English Englisb and butter sauce for roast game birds (old AU BEURRE ET AU PAIN A l'^lNcl-.ltsE-'Bring to sAUcEAU recipeJ. SAUCE recipe). BEURRE ET AU PAIN À L'ANGLAiSE - 'Bring to(3 large tablespoons breadcrumbsinin22large tablespoon breadcrumbs boit1Itablespoon tn" boil the tablespoons (3 small onion cut in I adding consommd, tablespoons) large large tablespoons) consommé, adding 1 small onion eut in salt, grated nutmeg and cayenne littlesalt, AddaaIittle cl,ove.Add andaac1ove. twJand two grated nutmeg and cayenne remove the onion and the minutes,remove for l0minutes, pepper.Simmer Simmerfor pepper. the ornon and the sauce. Before serving, add a Butter mixinin1I tablespoonButler sauce. c1ove, mix Before serving, add au a "ton., cuisine frangaise L'Artdedelalacuisine butter.' (Car6me,L'Art bestbutter.' littlebest little française au sibcle.) XIXgsiècle.) X/Xe I'ANct'llsn - Stir 3+ dl' cntwÀA,L'ANGLAISE slucnCRÈME sauoe.SAUCE creamsauce. Englishcream El1glish - Stir consommd, 3 tablespoons whiteconsommé, pint,11|cups) cups)white (geneious ·u'"',,,,,.,, Ipint, 3 tat)le~;p()OrlS(6 (see ESSENCE) and I dL Uusnioo^essence (see ESSENCE) il""ttt icupf cup) Mushroom and (6 "tsenre j cream into a white roax made of 50 cup) scant iablesp-oons, tablespoons, scant t cup) cream into a white roux made of 50 30 g. (l oz., * cup) flour' Mix and (2 butter g. oz., g. (2 oz., cup) butter and 30 g. (1 oz., cup) flour. Mix together. "up) together. (old recipe).SAUCE sAUcE AU FENouIL - 'Pick over sauce1 I(old iennelsauce Fennel AU FENOUIL - 'Pick over put1 Itat)jes;po;on tablespoon into a andput chop fennel, some wash and and wash sorne fennel, ititand large tablespoons(3(3 large tablecontaining2 2large saucepancontaining sauce. Add a little chick en glaze, a Allemandesauce. boilingAllemande spoons)boiling a littlejuice chicken of a.lemon'' the andthe nutmegand butter,a ipinchofofnutmeg liitlebutter, of a au XIXe sibcle ') (Car€me, cuisine la de L' ,q,ri frangaise (Carême, L'Ar l la cuisine française au siècle.)

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SAUCE SAUCE Fennel sauce If for grilled or boiled fish, chiefly mackerel Fennel sauce n forsAUcE grilledAU or FENoTJTL boiled fish, chiefly mackerel (Enghsh cookery). Add I iablesooon SAUCE AU FENOUIL - Add 1 tablespoon (Englisb choppedcookery). and blanched fennel to 2! dl. (scant f pint, g"ni.ou, chopped and blanched fennel to 2t dl. (scant t pint, generous ctrp) Butter sauce IL cup)Fines Butler saucesauce Il. (for fish). slucn AUx herbes FrNEs HERBES _ Add Fines herbes sauce (for fish). SAUCE AUX FINES HERBES - Add +.d1. (3 tablespoons, scant i iup) finely grated shallot to 2 dl. t (.i dl.pilt, (3 tablespoons, scant!wine cup)sauce. finely grated sbaHot to 2 dl. scant cup) White Strain through a cloth. (tAqd pint,I seant cup) While wine sauce, Strain through a c1oth, tablespoon chopped chervil and parsley. AddFoyot 1 tablespoon chopped chervil and parsley, sauce (for grilled meat). slucr Foyor _ Add 2 gril.Jed meat). SAUCE FOYOT - Add 2 Foyot sauce(3 (for tablespoons tablespoons) meat glaze to 2 dl. (+ pint, scant tablespoons (3 tablespooos) meat Meat glaze to 2 di. pint, seant cup) strained Bdarnaise sauce. glaze is frlpaied by cup) strained Béarnaise sauce, Meat glaze is prepared by boiling down strong meat stock untiiit becomes a tacky boiling syrup. down strong meat stock until it bec ornes a tacky syrup, French sauce for fish (otd recipe). sAUcE A LA FRAN9ATsE _ French for fish (old recipe). SAUCE A LA FRANÇAISE 'Put intosauce a saucepan some Btihamel sauce based on fish 'Put iuto a sauce sorne Béchamel sauce based on fish stock. When it ispau almost boiling, add a little garlic, a little When il is almost boiling, add a little garlic, a little stock, gr_ated. rlutmeg and Mushroom essence (see ESSENCE). grated andforMushroom essence (sec ESSENCE), When itnutmeg has boiled just a moment, and before serving, adi Wheo it has boiled for a moment, andjust before serving, Crayfish butter (see BUTTER) to give it a pinkish colour.add Crayfish buller (sec tails BUTTER) to give it a pinkish colour. crayfish and small peeled mushrooms may be _'Shelled crayfish 'Shelled and smalJ peeled mushrooms may be added to this sauce.tails I served this sauce for the first time in the added sauce, 1 served this sauce for the first lime in the house to of this Prince Paul de Wurtemberg., (Car6me, L'Art de la house of Prince Paul de Wurtcmberg.' (Carême, L'Arl de la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe sibcle.) XIXe (English siècle,) cuisine française ausauce Freshwater fish cookery) Cut 25 g. (l oz.) Freshwater (Englisb cookery) -- Cut 25 g, (1 oz.) carrot g. (* sauce and l5 fish oz.) parsley roots into a finejulienne.'Addz carrot and shredded 15 g, (1 oz,) parsley fOots into a fine julienne, Add 2 teaspoons peel. orange teaspoons shreddedinorange Put all together a smallpeeL saucepan, moisten with I dl. (6 Put ail together a small saucepan, moisten with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, sclnt in cup) white wine and boil until the liquid tablcspoons, t* cup) Moisten white wine and boil until the liquid is completelyseant absorbed. again with I dl. (6 t"'bl"_ absorbed, Moisten again with 1 dl. (6 tableis completely spoons, scant |cup) fish court-bouillonmadewith white wine. spoons, seant !cup) fish courl-bouillon made with(scant white wine. Boil down until all liquid is absorbed. Add 2+ dl. pint, untilHo allliquid Add 2i dL (seant t{ pint, Boil downcup) generous llandaiseis sabsorbed. auc e to the julienne. generous cup) Hollandaise sauce to the julienne, Finish offwith a few leaves of blanched parsley. Finish sauceoffwithSee a few leaves ofblanehed parsley, Garlic GARLIC. Garlic sauce See sweetbreads GARLIC sauce- (for and poultry). sAUcE coDARD _Godard Godard sauce (for2sweetbreads and poultry). SAUCE GODARD down by half dl. ($ pint, scantiup) - lgil Champagne with 2 -tablespoons Boil down by half2 dl. (~pint, seant Champagne with 2 (3 tablespoons) mirepoix eup) of vegetabies. tablespoons (3 pint, tablespoons) mirepoix ofvegetables, Add 2 dl. ($ scant cup) Demi-glace-sauce and I dl. (6 Add oons, 2 dl. H pint, cup) seantMcup) Demi-glace sauce and 1 dl. (6 scant us hr o om e s s en c e (seeESS ENCE). $ fab.fesf tablespoons, seant 1 cup) Mushroom Boil down by one-third and strain. essence (see ESSENCE). Boil down by one-third and strain. (for fish). slucn Greel sauce A u cnncqur - Cook together sauce (for fish).2SAUCE À LA GRECQUE -- Cook together in Greek I tablespoon butter tablespoons (3 tablespoons) -onioo in 1 tablespoon butter 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) onion and celery heart, both chopped. Add a iouquit garni and! celery chopped, Add a bouquel garni composed of a heart, stalk ofboth fennel, a little thyme and bay leaL composed of a stalk of fennel, a little thyme leaf. Moisten with I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant and bay white wine, +cup) with 1seeds dl. (6and tablespoons, t cup) white wine, addMoisten l0 coriander boil down seant by two+hirds. Stir in add(610tablespoons, coriander seeds boil down by two-thirds. Stir in 1 dl. scantand cup) Velouti sauce based on fish dl. (6 tablespoons, seant 1 cup) Veloulé based on fish stock and I dl. (6 tablespoons, scantlcup)sauce cream. Boil down stock and 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant tcup) Boil down by one-third, finish off with 50 g. (i oz., f cream. cup) butter and by one-third, finish off with 50 g. (2 oz" :l cup) butter and strain. strain, Hollandaise sauce I (for vegetableg fish and eggs). s,l,ucE Hollandaise sauce 1 (for by vegetables. fish and eggs). SAUCE HoLLANDATSE Boil down two-thirds 4 tableipoons (5 HOLLANDAISE wine - Boil down by two-thirds 4 tablespoons (5 tablespoons) vinegar mixed with 2 tablesioons i3 tablespoons)water, wine avinegar with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pinch ofmixed salt and a pinch of tablespoons) coarsely ground pepper.water, a pinch of salt and a pinch of"ourr"iy ground Let thepepper. saucepan cool a little, then add 5 raw egg yolks Let slightly the saucepan cool a little,water. tben add 5 raw egg yolks beaten with I tablespoon beaten with 1 tablespoon Whiskslightly the sauce over very gentle wateL heat. As soon as the volks over very gentle heat. As soon as the yolks Whisktothe thicken a sauce creamy consistency add, little by little and a time, creamy add, little by little and thickenalltothe beating g. (f Ib., 2 cups) 450consistency lukewarm melted beating al! the time, 450 g. (1 lb" 2 cups) lukewann melted butter. butter. 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) water, a few drops at a . Adg Add 2 tablespoons water, a few drops at a time. Season and add a (3 fewtablespoons) drops lemon juice. Strain thiough and add few drops lemonjuice, Strain through a time, cloth.Season Keep warm in aa bain-marie. aHollandaise clotho Keep sauce warmcan in abebain-marie. made in a bain-marie. Hollandaisesauce sauceII can made in a bain-marie, Hollandaise (oldbe recipe). sAUcE HoLLnNoArsE _ .put (old recipe). SAUCE HOLLANDAISE - 'Pul intoHollandaise a saucepan sauce 5 eggnyolks, a little fine butter, salt, pepper into a saucepan egg yolks, a litt le fine butter, salt, peppeT grated and nutmeg.5 Stand the pan over very low heat. Stiiin. and grated nutmeg, Stand the pan over very low heat. Stir the

sauceconstantly constantlywith witha awood wooden spoon,and andasasit itdevelops developsmix mix sauce en spoon, quantitiesofofbutter. smallquantities butter.After Aftlrhaving havingadded addedmore morlthan ininsmal! than g. (8 oz.),mix mixinin1 Itablespoon tablespoonvinegar.' (Car€me,L'Arl vinegar.;(Carême, L'Artdede 225 ?25g, (8 oz.), cuisinefrangaise XIXesiècle,) siicle.\ lalacuisine française auauXIxe Hollandaisesauce saucesuprême (ordrecipe). suprGme(old recipe).SAUCE sAUcEHOLLANDAISE H.LLANDATSE Hollandaise ,c,u supREMs - 'Break 5 egg yolks into a saucepan, blendinina a AU SUPRÊME - 'Break 5 egg yolks into a saucepan, blend little bestbutter, butter,salt, pepper,grated salt,fine finepepper. gratednutmeg, nrrtmeg,1Itablele best litt table_ spoonAllemande Allemande sauce sauceand and1Itablespoon tablespoonchicken chickenglaze, glaze.Stir Stir spoon oververy verylow lowheat, heat,and andasasilitcontinues continuestotothicken, thicken,add addtotoitita a over little butter threeor orfour fourlimes, times,taking takingcare caretotostir stirail allthe time. thetime, little butter three Beforeserving pourininaalittle littlevinegar vinegar and andadd good piece addaagood pieceof Before serving pour of (Car6me, L'Arl butter.'(Carême, L'Art dedelalacuisine cuisiiefrangaise aiXIxe XIX6siècle,) sibcte.) butter.' française au Horseradishsauce, sauce,hol hot(Englisb cookery). SAUCE sAUcE RAIFORT @nglishcookery). nuroni Horserawsh cHAUDE Proceedas asfor fot Alberl Albert sauce. sauce. CHAUDE - - Proceed (forsmali sauce1I(for smallculs cuts of ofsautéed saut6ed meat, meageggs, egggfish, fish, Hungarian sauce _Hungarian o1U.S. variety meals, qffal or meats, and poulhy).SAUCE andpoultry). sAUcE HONGROISE HoNcRorsE - _ U.S. variety oirai Cook inin butter, butter, without withoutallowing allowing toto-colour, table_ Cook colour, 22large large tablespoonschopped chopped onion. onion. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with aa good good pinch pinch of of spoons paprika, season v,ith pinch of with aa pinch of salt, salt, moisten moiste-n with (O wittr 1t dl. Ot.(6 paprika, season tablespoons, seant scanttcup) white wine wine and and add add aasmall small bouquel { cup) white bouqu)t tablespoons, garni. Boil Boil down down by by two-thirds, two-thirds. garni, Stir in in 2~ (scant1 2l dl.dl. (seant pint, generous generous cup) cup) VeloUlé Velout| sauce I pint, sauce Stir -based on either either meat meat or or fish fish stock, stock. Simmer Simmer ovcr over good good heat heat for for bascd on minutes, strain strain through through aa cloth cloth and and finish finish off otrfuth (2 g. (2 50 g, 55 minutes, with 50 oz., f cup) cup) butter. butter. oz,,! Hungarian sauce sauce n. II. SAUCE sAUcE HONGROISE HoNcRorsE -- Cook Cook the the chopped chopped Hungariall onion in in butter butter and and sprinkle sprinkle itit with with 1I tablespoon tablespoon fiour flour and and aa onion good pinch pinch of paprika. Moisten of paprika, Moisten with (6 tablespoons, with 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, good scant .~j cup) cup) white yoii white wine wine and and add add aa sm small bouquet garni, gorit. Boil scant ail bouquel down by by two-thirds, two-thirds. Stir Stir in in 33 dl. (+ pint, dl. (t l{ cups) cups) Iight light down pint, 1 consommi or or stock, stock, or or water water to to which which aa sm quintity of small consommé ail quantily glaze or extract has been added. meat glaze meat or cxtract has been added, Cook very slowly for for 25 offas Cook very slowly 25 minutes minutes and finish off as above. above, flungarian sauce sauce III. Ill. slucu SAUCE HoNGRorsE HONGROISE - Stir the cooking cooking . HUllgarian liquor of 8 oysters composed of liquor of 8 oysters into into a a white white roux roux composed of i1 tablespoon tablespoon butter butter and'l and 1tablespoon tablespoon flour. fiOUL Add,lidl. Add It dl. (}pint, (t pint, fi cup) cup) mushroom musnroom or or fish fisn fumet. fumel. Cook Cook very very slowly.for slowly for 20 minutes. minutes, Thicken Thicken with with 22 9gg egg yolks, yolks, strain strain it.ough through aa cloth, cloth, finish offwit! (2o2.,*cup) g. finish offwith 50 50 g, (2 oz., icup) butter butter and and add add thi the poached, poached, drained drained and and de-bearded de-bearded oysters. oysters, Indian Inwan sauce. sauce. sAUcE SAUCE INDIENNEINDIENNE - See See Curry Curry sauce. sauce, _ Ivoire sauce sauce (for (for eggs, eggs, sweetbreads, sweetbreads. poultry). poultry). sAUcE SAUCE rvorRE IVOIRElyoi* Add 2 (3 tablespoons Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) concentrated concentrated brown brown veal veal stock stock or or I1tablespoon tablespoon meat meal glaze glaze to to 22 dl. dl. (* (~ pint, pint, scant seant cup) cup) Suprhme Suprême sauce. Sffiœe, Joinville sauce (for fish). slucn JOINVILLE -- Add Add to to 22 dl. dl. ($ . Joinville sauce (for fish). SAUCE JorNvrLLE pint, pint,scant seantcup) cup)Shrimp Shrimpsauce sauce I1tablespoon tablespoontruffies trumescut eutin inaafini fine julienne. This sauce is also prepared with crayfish butter, and julienne. This sauce is also prepared with crayfish butler, and sometimes sometimeswith withmixed mixed shrimp shrimpand andcrayfish crayfish butter. buller. Laguipiire SAUCE r,r.cupsnr LAGUIPIÈRE _- Add Add 22 Laguipière sruce sauce f1(for (for fish). fish). sAUcE tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped cbopped truffies truffies infused infused in in I 1 tablespoon tablespoon Madeira Madeira to to 22 dl. dl. $(t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) Normande Normande sauce. sauce, .put Laguipiire Laguipièresauce sauceIIn (old (oldrecipe). recipe).sAUcE SAUCEr.lcurpdnB LAGUIPIÈRE_- 'Put into into aa saucepan saucepan I1 large large tablespoon tablespoon Butter Buller sauce sauce add add I 1 tablespoon tablespoongood goodconsommd consomméororaalittle IHllechicken chic kenglaze, glaze,aapinch pinch ofofsalt, salt,some sornenutmeg nutmegand andvinegar vinegarororlemon lemonjuice. juice,Boil-for Boil foraa few fewseconds, seconds,and andmix mixininaagood goodpiece pieceofoffine fine6utter. butter. 'Thismay maybebemade madewith withfish fishgtaze glazeinstead insteadofofchicken chickenglaze.' glaze.' . _'This (Car€me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe sibcte.) (Carême, L'Arl de la cuisine française au XIX' siècle,) Iobster sauce I 1(for Lobstersauce (forfish). fish).sAUcE SAUCEHorraeno HOMARDAdd2 2di. dl.$(1pint, pint, - Add scant cup)White Whilewine winesauce saucetoto2 2tablespoons tablespoons(3(3tablesp-o-onsj tablespoons) scantcup) Lobster Lnbslerbutter buller(see (seeBUTTER). BUTTER).Add Adda apinch pinchofofcayenne cayenneani and strain strainthrough througha acloth. cloth,Add AddI 1tablespoon tablespoonlobster lobsterliesh fieshcut cutinin very verysmall smaltdice. dice, obster sauceII,n,forforfish fish@ngtish (Englishcookery). cookery),sAUcE SAUCEHoMARD HOMARD Lobstersauce -A rL'ANGrArsn À L'ANGLAISE- - Add Add 2+ 2! dl. dL(scant (scantj 1pint, pint,generous generouscup) cup) Bicharnel sauce to Béchamel sauce to|tablespoon 1tablespoonanchovy anchovyessence essenceororpaste pasleand and

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SAUCE SAUCE a0 40g.g. (l| (11oz., oz.,f,!cup) cup) lobster lobsterflesh fiesh cut cut in in dice. dice. Add Add aa pinch pinch of of cayenne. cayenne. Lyonnaise Lyonnaise sauce sauce (old (old recipe). redpe). sAUcE SAUCE A À tn LA LYo'tNAIsE LYO'lNAISE -'Blanch 'Blanch 4 large diced diced onions onions and and simmer sim mer them them in in clarified clarified drainthem themon onaahorsehair horsebairsieve, sieve, butter. When almost cooked, drain fumet (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) game gamefumet tacllespo()fis(3 and mix them with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 large large tablespoons) tablespoons) Allemande Allemande and 2large tablespoons vigorously. When When this this isis boiled boiled down, down, add add aa sauce, stirring vigorously.

and blanched blanched tarragon, tarragon, the thejuice juice of of aa lemon, lemon, aa little chopped and butter, and and aa little little game glaze'' glaze.' little butter, little graied nutmeg, aa little (Car6me, L'Art L'Art de de la cuisine cuisinefrangoise française au au XIX" X/Xe sibcle.) Maître d'hotel d'hotel sauce sauce (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE A À I-n LA udrnn MAÎTRE Maitre D'HÔTEL ltfE LIÉE -- 'Put 'Put into into a a saucepan saucepan 2 2 tablespoons tablespoons half half o'HOtsL thickened Veloutt Velouté sauce. sauce. Just Just before before serving it it should should be be thickened Remove from from heat, heat, blend blend in in aa little !ittle glaze and some boiling. Remove Maître d'h6tel butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Co,mp,OUfi!d butters)- Mix Maitri thoroughly.' (Car€me, (Carême, L'Art L'A rt de de la la cuisine frangaise au XI* thoroughly.'

siècle.) sibcle.)

Maltaise sauce sauce I1 (for (for boiled boiled vegetables). vegetables). sAUcE SAUCE Maltaise

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MALTATSE MAL TAJSE -

Add 2 2 dl. ($ (t pint, pint, scant cup) Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce to to bloodbloodAdd and I1small small tablespoon tablespoon finely grated grated orange orange peel. peel. orange juice and sauce II. Proceed Proceed as above, using using tangerine tangerine juice juice Vfamise sauce and peel. peel. and Curaqao. This sauce sauce may be be flavoured with a few drops of of Curaçao. This Marinière sauce (for fish, musselg mussels, timbales' timbales, vol-au-vent). vol-au-vent). MariniCre with mussel SAUCE MlnrNdRs MARINIÈRE - Prepare Prepare a a Bercy Bercy sauce sauce with sAUcE White wine yolks as for for White cooking liquor. Iiquor. Thicken Thicken it with egg yolks cooking

n.

Proceed as above, MouTARDE Mustard Mustard sauce sauce II. II. sAUcE SAUCE MOUTARDE -- Proceed as above, sauce. replacing replacingthe the butter butter sauce sauce by by Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce.

slucn NANTUA Nantua Nantua sauce sauce I1 (for (for eggs, eggs, fish, fish, shellfish). sbeUfish). SAUCE NANTUA -scantlcup) Bichamel (6 Boil Boil down down by by half half I1dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant ~ cup) Béchamel 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant I sauce to wtrittr whieh have have been been added added 1 dl. (6 scant-t sauce to and of cream' cup) cup) each each of ofthe the cooking cooking liquor Liquor of of crayfish crayfish of cream. (see butter Crayfish (2 g. cup) oz., 50 with off Finirh Finish off with 50 g. (2 oz., I cup) Crayfish butter (see of brandy and a BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), butters), aa few few drops drops of brandy and a pinch pineh of ofcayenne. cayenne. Strain. Strain. Heat I dl. (6 tablespoons, NANTu.l, Nantua Nantua sauce sauce II. II. sAUcE SAUCE NANTUA -- Heat 1 dl. (6 tatllefipclonis, to the desired conj crayfish cup) scant seant -t cup) crayfish purde purée and and dilute dilute to the confew tablespoons sistency sisteney with with 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz., t cup) cup) butter butter and and aa few tablespoons cream. eream. Add Add aa pinch of of cayenne. cayenne. Strain. Strain. NoRMANDE Normande Normande (Normandy) sauce sauce I1 (for (for fish). fish). sAUcE SAUCE NORJI;[ANDE sauce^ Veloutt sauce cup) Velouté scant cup) -- Mix Mix in in aa saucepan 2 dl. (f (t pint, pint, scant each of scant -t* cup) each based based on on fish fish stock, I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant of ".tp) by onedown Boil down liquor. Boil cooking liquor. frshfumet fishfumet and and mushroom mushroom cooking by onewith 22 yolks mixed mixed with egg yolks Add 22 egg third third over over good heat. heat. Add cream. tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream. tablespoons and 33 tablespoons (2 oz., butter and cup) butter oz., tI eup) 50 g. (2 Finish offwith 50 a cloth. through Strain (scant cream. * (scant i cup) cream. through a c1oth. ' ".tp) (Normandy) sauce II. sAUcE NoRMANDE - Boil Normande Normande (Normandy) sauce n. SAUCE NORMANDE - Boil which 22 to which fishfumet cup) fish pint, seant scant cup) dl. ({ pint, half 22 dl. by down down by half fumet to been have been skins have mushroom skins (3 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) mushroom

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added.

fish on fish based on sauce based Veloutb sauce (| pint, pint, scant cup) Velouté scant cup) dl. (t Add 22 dl. Add down Boil down cream. Boil (6 tablespoons, scant -!* cup) cream. tablespoons, scant dl. (6 and 1I dl. stock and stock (5 tablespoons (5 and 44 tablespoons (2 oz., butter".rp) g. (2 cup) butter oz.,* cup) 50 g. Add 50 half. Add by half. by and cloth' through aa clotho Strain through cream. Strain tablespoons) cream. braised game' mutton, pou1try, for boiled boiled mutton, sauce for Onion sauce PodtrV' braised olGNoNs -- Cook AUx OIGNONS sAUcE AUX (English cookery). cookery). SAUCE hipe (English rabbit, tripe rabbit, pint, li li cups) cups) in 33 dl. dl. (1 onions (4 oz., chopped on g. (4 cip) chopped oz.,-t1 cup) @ pint, 100 g. 100 ions in as they are soon as as soon Drain as nutmeg. Drain pepper and and nutmeg. salt, pepper milliwith milk with salt, they are finelY. more finely. and chop chop again more cooked and cooked white into aa white cooked into were cooked the onions onions were in which the milk in Stir the the milk Stir 25 g' and 25 butter and tablespoons) butter g. (1(l oz., o2.,2 25 g. of 25 composed of rouxeomposed roux 2 tablespoons) g. cook andcook the onions onions and add the boil, add to the the boil, Bring to flour. Bring oz., ± (1(l oz., cup) fiour. *""p) accompanies. meat itit accompanies. the meat over the Pour over gently for minutes. Pour for 88 minutes. gently - Oyster dl' Add22dl. nuirnps - - Add aux HUÎTRES (for fish). fish). SAUCE sAUcE AUX sauce 1f (for Oyster sauce (incorporatsauce(incorporatwinesauce White wine orWhite Normande or pint, scant cup) Normande scant cup) (t(t pint, poached, liquor) toto 88 poached, cooking liquor) oyster cooking iig concentrated oyster ing "or""ntratLd oYsters. de-bearded oysters. and de-bearded drained drained and

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sauce. sauce. MoRILLES AUx MORILLES ARoMATIQUE AUX sAUcE AROMATIQUE Morel sauce (old recipe). SAUCE - 'Put into a saucepan a pinch pincb of rosemary, the same amount -'Put

little clove, aa !ittle of sage, sage, thyme and basil, quarter of a bay leaf, a c1ove, of and onion and chopped onion Add 1I cbopped mignonette and a pinch ofnutmeg. of nutmeg. Add mignbnette minutes' few minutes, for aa few Simmer for 1 good consommé. consommd. Simmer tiblespoon good I tablespoon 30 sound sound into itit 30 Put into strain tbrough cloth, using pressure. Put tlirougtr aa c1oth, established and weil washed en boiling isis established When small morels. Wh waihed small and'well down and boil boil down an entrée entrte and pour in enough for an sauce for Allemande sauce enough Allemande to the desired point. desired point. fine g)aze, aa !iule little fine 'Before chicken glaze, in aa little little chicken blend in serving, blend 'Before serving, and chopped and juice of butter, tablespoon chopped and 1I tablespoon lemon and of 1I lemon butter, the juice au (Car€me, L'Art cuisine française blanched la cuisine de la L'Art de chervil.' (Carême, blanched chervil.' frangaise au X/Xe XIXe siècle.) sibcle.) MoRNAY -Mornay sa,uce MORNAY (for eggs and vegetables). vegetables). SAUCE eggs and Mornay sauce sauce 1I (for Bhchamel Boil pint, seant cup) Béchamel scant cup) dl. (t one-third 22 dl. down by by one-third Boil down $ pint, fresh sauce scant I cup) fresh tablespoons, seant dl. (6 tablespoons, with 1I dl. mixed with sauce mixed cream. Parmesan grated Gruydreand and j.>"r·IYlP~"n g. ((Lloz.,tcup) grated 40 g. Add 40 cream. Add strain' and strain. cheese, butter, and oz.,* cup) butter, mix, incorporate incorporate 50g.g. (2 oz., cheese, mix, MoRNAY - Mornay sAUcEMORNAY (for crucken eggs). SAUCE or eggs). chicken or II (for sauce Il Mornay sauce with Proceed thecream cream with replacing the recipe, replacing is inin the the preceding recipe, Proceed as chicken stock. light chicken Proceedasas MoRNAY - - Proceed (for fish). fish). SAUCE sAUcE MORNAY III (for Mornay sauce sauceIII above, with fish stock fumet in otfumetin stock or saucewithfish Btchamelsauce the Béchamel cooking the above, cooking which wascooked. cooked fish was the fish which the (for fish Mousseline boiled fishand and boiled sauce(for Chantilly sauce or Chantilly sauce or Mousselinesauce y - -Add vegetables). dl. Add22dl. cHANTILLY sAUcECHANTILL MoussELINE,SAUCE sAUcEMOUSSELINE, vegetables).SAUCE (t$ pint, scant cup)Hollandaise tablespoons, dl.(6(6tablespoons, to1Idl. sauceto Hollandaisesauce seant cream. scant I cup) whiPPed cream. Mousseuse sAUcE (for fish vegetables). SAUCE boiled vegetables). fishand and boiled sauce (for Mousseuse sauce MOUSSEUSE and waterand boilingwater with boiling rinsed with basin,rinsed intoaabasin, Putinto MoussEUsE - - Put wiped butter finebutter veryfine generouscup) cup)very oz.,generous 250g.g.(9(9oz., dry, 250 wiped dry, softened pinchofof witha apinch seasonwith andseason consistency, and creamy consistency, soitened totoaacreamy salt. salt. Whisk pint,seant cup) scantcup) dl. (+pint, little,22dl. bylittle, littleby whileadding, adding,little Whisk while cold Add2 2oror3 3 lemon juice.Add oflemon squeeze of anda asqueeze waterand coldwater tablespoons cream. whippedcream. cup)whipped scant *eup) tablespoonsororseant tablespoons(3(3tablespoons This cold. servedeold. Thissauce sauceisisserved Mustard MoUTARDE fish).SAUCE sAUcEMOUTARDE (forboiled boiledoror grilledfish). Mustardsauce sauce1I(for - Add Butter pint,seant cup)BUller scantcup) mustardtoto 2 dl.(t$pint, tablespoon mustard Add1Itablespoon sauce. Strain. sauce.StraÎn.

AUX sAUcE AUX (English cookery). cookery). SAUCE cod(English for boi1ed boiledcod II, for sauccII, Oyster sauce Oyster oyster cup)oyster scant t* cup) dl.(6(6 tablespoons, seant Stir 11dl. Stir "utin"s liquor,and of eachof cup)each scant-ti cup) dl.(6(6 tablespoons, seant and1Idl. cooking oz.,22 rouxofof2525g.g.(1(l oz., whiteroux into aawhite cream into milk and cream milk flour' tablespoons)flour. o2.,2 and1515g.g.(1(i oz., butter and tablespoons) butter tablespoons) 2 tablespoons) and boiland theboil pinchof salt,bring bring totothe ofsalt, verysmall smallpinch with aavery Season with Season 20minutes. minutes. for20 cookfor cook and de-beardedand poached,de-bearded add1212poached, cloth,add throughaacloth, Strain through Strain pinchofofcayenne. andaapinch oysters,and slicedoysters, sliced cayenne. rl'roIsE poultry).SAUCE slucePALOISEandpou1try). (forgrilled grilledmeat meatand saucne(for Paloisesauce Paloise tarragonbyby thetarragon replacing the sauce,replacing Bharnaise sauce, forBéarnaise Proceedasasfor Proceed mint. mint. poultryand ra!!i! andrabbit, boiledpou1try head,boiled forcacalves' sauce1Ifor Parsleysauce Ives' bead, Add1 I PERsIL- -Add sAUcEPERSIL (English cookery).SAUCE veal(English and braisedveal and dropsofof fewdrops parsleyand anda afew and blanchedparsley choppedand tablespoon chopped tablespoon Buttersauce. sauce' generouscup) atrp)Butter (scanttpint, lemonjuice lem on juice toto2rdl. dl. (seant -t pint, generous PERSIL sAUcEPERSILsalmon).SAUCE andsalmon). mackereland sauceIIII (formackerel Parsleysauce Parsley parsley-flavoured cup)oalrsle:v-tlavou.red (scant I pint, generouscup) Stir 2fdl.dl.(seant Stir roux whiteroux fish intoa awhite thefish left from cookingthe court-bouillon left COllrl"DO'UlllOn butterand composedofof15l5g.g.(-~(*ot.,l composed oz., 1 tatablespoon) blespoon) butter and 1515g.g.(toz', (t oz., strain. andstrain. minutesand for8 8minutes Simmerfor flour.Simmer ta6lespoons) fiour. 2 2tablespoons) parsleyand squeeze anda asqueeze choppedparsley tablespoonchopped offwith1 Itablespoon Finishoffwith Finish lemon juice. ofoflemonjuice. (old chicken(old and pot-roastedcrucken braisedand forbraised saucefor Piemontaisesauce Piemontaise pduoNrAlsE- - 'Cut2 2large onionsinto sAUcEÀ ALAu PIÈMONTA1SE recipe). large onions recipe).SAUCE iltg clarified goldencolour colourininclarified themtotoa agolden cookthem andcook dice,and smalldice, verfsmall very

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SAUCE SAUCE butter. Strain, cook them in good consommd and remove all butter. them in good consommé and rernove al! grease.Strain, Blendcook in enough Btchamel sauce accompanyan an enough Béchamel sauce totoaccompany grease. Blend in (11b.) entrte,225 g. Piedmont truffies cut in large dice, and 2 en/rée, 225 g. H lb.) Piedmont truffles cut in diee, and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pignoli (pine kernels). After the tab1jeS'pocms (3 tablespoons) pignoU (pine After the sauce has boiled for an instant, mix in a little chicken glaze, a sauce boiled for an Înstant. mÎx in a liule g1aze, a little garlic butter and the juice of a lemon.' (Car6me, i,,qrt de little garlie butter and thejuiee ofa lernon.' (Carème, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au XIXe siicle.) la cuisine française au X/Xe siècle.) Polonaise sauce (old recipe). sAUcE poLoNArsE _ .Scrape a Polonaise sauce (old recipe). SAUCE POLONAISE - 'Scrape a root ofhorseradish and grate half. put 3 tablespoons (scint root of horseradish and grate half. Put 3 tablespoons (seant into a saucepan with tablespoon sugar. Dilute'it littli !un) into a saucepan with 1Itablespoon cup) sugar. Dilute it !iule by little with half-thickened Veloutt sauie (see above) in liule with half-thÎckened Velouté sauce (see above) in sufficient quantity to accompany an entr6e. When the sauce to an entrée. When sauce comes to the boil, add the juice of I leanon, a littlethe gJaze and cornes to boil, add lemon, a liule glaze aod (Car€me, L'Art1de butter.' la cuisine française au lome fine butter.' fringaise au sorne (Carême, L'Art de la cuisine XI)(e fine sibcle.) X/Xe siècle.) Poulette sauce (for vegetables and poached offal or U.S. Poulette sauee (for pouLETTE vegetables aud poached offal or V.S. variety neats). sAUcE Add I tablespoon chopped SAUCE POULETTE -- Add 1 ehopped parsley and a few drops lemon juice to 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) seant cup) Allemande sauce. drops lemonjuice 10 2 dl. G Allemande .Add some hincessesauce. sauce (old recipe). sAUcE pRrNcEssE Princesse sauce (010 recipe). SAUCE PR1NCESSE -- 'Add sorne blanched,-chopped parsley, a pinch of grated nutmeg, a little blanched. chopped parsley, a pinch nutmeg, a little chicken gJaze, a little butter and the juice of a lerion to 2 chieken glaze, (3 a little butter and the of a lemon to 2 tablespoons tablespoons) boiling Allemande sauce., tablespoons (3 tablespoons) boiling Allemande sauce.' (Car€me, L'Art de la cuisinefrangaise au XIK sibcte.') (Carême, L' Art de cuisine française au X/ Xe siècle.) Printaniire saucela(for eggs and poultry). sAUcE pRrNuNttnr Printanière sauce (for SAUCE PRlNTANIÈRE Filis6 2 dl. ($ pint, scant cup) Allemande sauce with5O g, (2 -- Finish 2 dL sauce with 50 g. (2 green Printanier (see bitter BUTTER. Compound Compilmd 92., lf,cup) OZ., cup) green (sec BUTTER, hrtters\. Strain. Strain. butters). hovengal garlic sauce (old recipe). sAUcE A r.'en A r.q, Provençal (old reclpe). SAUCE À L'AiL À LA pRovBNgALn in a saucepan 4 cloves garlic, a lightly -'Simmer in PROVENÇALE a sa ucepan 4 cloves garlie, a seasoned bouquet garni, a pinch ofmignonette pepper and 1 seasoned bouquet garni, a pineh of mignonette pepper and tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consomm6. Boil down;take out tablespoons (3 tablespoons) consommé. Boil down, take out the garlic and the bouquet, and add Zlarge tablespoons (3 the garlic and the bouquet, and add 2 tablespoons (3 large tablespoons) Veloutt sauce and the beaten yolks of'3 large tablespoons) Velouté sauce and the yolks of 3 eggs. Boil for a few minutes, strain through a cloth, and mix eggs. Boil for a few minutes, strain through a cloth, and mix in a little butter and lemon juice.' (Car6me, L'Art de la cuisine in a little buller and lemonjuice.' (Carême, L'Arl de la cuisine frangaise au XIXe sibcle.) française au X/Xe siècle.) Ravigote sauce (for or U.S. variety meats Ravigote sauce Boil9ffal oifaJ or V.S. varicty meats and and poulby). sAUcE RAVrcorB down by two-thirds 2 tablespoons-(3 SAUCE RA VlGOTE down by two-thirds 2 tablespoons tablespoons) white wine and 2 tablespoons (3 tablispoonr; tablespoons) white wine and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, to which havebeen added I chopped shallot, a sprii vinegar, to which have been added 1 chopped sha11ot. a of-thyme, a fragment of bay leaf, a sprig of parsley, a pinc'tr oT ofthyme, a ofbay leaf, a sprig ofparsley, a pinch salt and a pinch.of coarsely ground pepper. salt and ina2 dl. (* pint, scantground cup) Vetoitt sauce and I dl. (6 -Stir Stir in (~ pint, seaot cup) sauce and 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) mushroom cooking liquor. Boil tablespoons, seant mushroom liquor. Boil down by one-third, finish offwith 50 g:cookîng (2 oz.,!cup) butter down3 by one-third, (scant off with 50 g. (2 OZ., butter and tablespoons cream. Add-a pinch of and 3 lablespoons (seant :l : cup) cream. Add a of "up) cayenne and strain through a cloth. and strain through a clotho Riche sauce (for fish) See Diplomat sauce. sauce (for(old fish) - See Diplomal sauce. Richefieu sauce recipe). 'Dice 4 large onious, cook till Richelieu sauce (0141 'Dîcc 4 onions, cook till golden in clarified butter, drain on a horsehair sieve and cook in clarified butter,(3 on a and cook inlarge tablespoons large tablespoons) -2 (3 large tabJespoons) consommi, consommé. adding a littletablespoons sugar, a little grated nutmeg and iome coarsely adding a sugar, a little grated nutmeg and sorne eoarsely grgund ngpper. Add 2large tablespoons (3large tablespoons) ground pepper. Add 2 large tablespoons (3 large tablespoons) Allemande sauce, a little chicken glaze and a little finebuttei. Allemande sauce, a liule chicken glaze and a little fine butter. Strain the sauce through a cloth, using pressure. Strain through a cio th, 'Addthe+sauce chopped an.i blanched chervil.' 'Add L'Art t tablespoon tahlespoon ebopped blanched cbervil.' (Car€me, de la caisinefrangaise au XDp sibcle.) (Carême, L'Art de la cuisinefrançaise au X/xe siècle.) Royal (for poached eggs and boiled Royal ryuce sauce (for poache
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Velouttsauce. sauce.Add Add1Itablespoon tablespoonfine finemustard, mustard,i jtablespoon tablespoon Velouté sugar, a pinchofoffine juiceofofa alemon.' fine pepper and andthe thejuice lemon.' (Car6me, L'Artdedelalacuisinefrangaiseau auX/Xe XI*siècle.) sidcle.) Sageand andomon onionsauce saucefor forroast roastpork porkand goose(EDglisb andgoose @nglish cookery). SAUCE slucrA usluon-Chop onions, previously À LA SAUGE - Chop 22large large on ions, previously cooked insalted saltedwater waterand anddrained. drained. Putthem them into intoaasaueepan saucepanwith with100 (4oz., 100g.g.(4 o2.,2 cups)fre
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SAUCE SAUCE adding in the course of pint, pint, scant seant clrtp) cup) Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce, sauce, adding in the course of

accompany an an enftAe. entrée. When When itit isis almost almost boiling boiling and and just just (scant to cup 4 to tablespoons 3 before-serving, add add 3 t0 4 (scant ito 55 tablespoons) chicken consommd consomméand 22small sm ail pats patsof ofbutter.' (Car6me, L'Art de delalacaisinefrangaise cuisine françaiseau auXIXe x/xesibcle.) siècle.) lNp -- Boil Talleyrand Talleyrandsauce. sauce.sAUcE SAUCETALLEYn TALLEYRAND Boildown downby byhalf half22 dl. pint,scant seantcup) cup)chicken chicken Veloutt Veloutésauce sauce(see (seeabove) above) and,Z and 2 dl. Q(tpint, A. dl. (*Hbint, pint,scant scantcup) cup)white white stock. stock. As As soon soonas asititisisboiling boilingadd add +4 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 lablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh cream cream and and t dl. dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, scant scant l cup) cup) Madeira. Madeira. Incorporate, Incorporate, away away from from tablespobns, the heat, heat, 50 50 g.g. (2 (2oz., oz.,{ cup) cup) butter. butter. Strain. Strain. the Add Add I1 tablespoon tablespoon vegetable vegetable mirepoix mirepoix (q.v.) (q.v.) and and I1 tabletablespoon truffies truffies and and pickled pickled tongue ton guecut eut in in very very small smaJl dice. dice. spoon Vetout6 with green green onions ornons (old (old recipe). recipe). sAUcE SAUCE Velouté sauce sauce with wlourfr VELOUTÉE A À LA cwrrte CIVETTE - 'Put 'Put into into a a saucepan saucepan 11 large large tablespoon Allemande Allemande sauce sauce and and 11tablespoon tablespoon Tomato Tomato sauce sauce tablespoon (see (see above). above). Add Add aa pinch of of grated grated nutmeg, nutmeg, pepper, and and the the juice juice of of aa lemon. lemon. Boil for for aa moment moment then then blend in in shrimp shrimp butter and and 1 small small teaspoon teaspoon very very finely finely chopped onion.' onion.' butter (Car€me, la cuisine (Carême, L'Art L'Art de de/a cuisinefrançaiseau x/xe sibcle.) frangaise au XIXe Venetian Venetian sauce sauce I1 (for (for eggs eggs and and poultry). poultry). sAUcE SAUCE vfNITIENNS VÉNITIENNEBoil Boil down down by by two-thirds two-thirds I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *t cnp) cup) and 2 vinegar vinegar to to which which 1 chopped chopped shallot shaJlot and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped chopped chervil chervil and and parsley parsley have have been been added. added. tablespoons) Stiiin Stir in 22 dl. (+ Ü pint, pint, scant scant a,ry) cup) Allemande Allemande sauce, sauce, finish finish off off with 50 50 E. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., t cup) cup) Green Green butter buller (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, with and add add I1 tablespoon chopped chopped butters), strain, and Compound bUl/ers), chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. chervil slucr vfi'urreNNE Venetian sauce II II (old (old recipe). recipe). SAUCE VÉNITIENNE -'Boil - 'Boil in in aa Venetian (3 tablespoons) Allemande saucepan 2 tablespoons (3 Allemande sauce, sauce, aa and leaves blanched good pinch of of shredded tarragon tarragon leaves blanched and little chicken I tablespoon chic ken glaze, aa little drained on a silk strainer, 1 good few drops good and aa few nutmeg and of grated nutmeg butter, aa pinch of butter, au la cuisine cuisinefrangaise de la L'Art de tarragon française au tarragon vinegar.' (Car€me, L'Art x/xe XIXe siècle.) sibcle.) wine and and the wine Cook the vfnox -- Cook slucn VÉRON fish). SAUCE V6ron sauce (for fisb). Véron (+ pint, pint, scant cup) scant cup) dl. (1 in 22 dl. sauce. Stir in for Béarnaise Bharnaise sauce. as for herbs as (3 tablespoons) very tablespoons) very tablespoons (3 and 22 tablespoons sauce and Normande sauce Normande pinch of glaze. Add of Add aa pinch or fish fish glaze. veal stock stock or brown veal concentrated brown concentrated and chervil and chopped chervil tablespoon chopped add 1I tablespoon strain, and and add cayenne, cayenne, strain, tarragon. dl. Prepare 2j dl. (for fish). vlcroRlA -- Prepare s,Lucc VICTORIA fish). SAUCE Victoria ViJtoria sauce sauce (for sauce. Lobstel sauce. (scant f{ pint, pint, generous generous cup) cnp) Lobster (scant trufles flesh and and truffies (3 tablespoons) lobster flesh tablespoons) lobster Add tablespoons (3 Add 2itablespoons dice. cut very small small dice. in very cut in la Villeroi). fried à la (to coat to be be fried foodstuffs to coat foodstuffs Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce (to pint, scant cup) Allemande dl. (1 down 22 dl. Boil down vILLEnot -- Boil SAUCE sAUcE VILLEROI $ pint, (5 tat)le~;pc,on,s: tablespoons) light stock sauce with 44 tablespoons (5 thinned with saucethinned the back of the spoon. will coat coat the and and mushroomfumet mushroomfumet until it will cold. until itit isis cold. well until Strain, stir weIl and stir Strain, and foodstuffs coat foodstuffs to coat cold to when almost almost cold used when sauce isis used This This sauce seasoning, and seasoning, oil and of egg, egg, oil in aa mixture mixture of dipped in which which are arethen then dipped indeep deep fat. fat. fried in being fried before being and breadcrumbed before and breadcrumbed belinished finished maybe sauce may thissauce chosen, this the recipe chosen, According According to to the pur6e or orOnion Onion tomato purée essence.(see with TruJfle Trffie essenc~ (see ESSENCE), tomato with chopped have truffles, truffies,chopped (see PUREE). alsohave may also PUREE). IiIt may soubise soubise (see toit.it. added to etc' added of vegetables,etc. mushrooms, mushrooms , mirepoix ofvegetables, sauce withAllemande Allemande sauce prepared with fishisisprepared Villeroi Villeroi sauce sauce for fish based fishstock. stock. based on onfish Boildown down BLANc- -Boil (forfisb). vINBLANC fish). SAUCE sAUcEVIN winesauce sauce1I(for Wbite White wine white withwhite madewith pint,t3cup) fishfumet made cup)lishfumet dl.Ü$pint, two-thirdsIflfdl. bytwo-trurds yolks.Whisk Whiskover over eggyolks. andadd add22egg littleand coolaalittle Allow totocool wine.Allow sauce. Hollandaise sauce. thickens,asasfor low for Hollandaise heatuntil untilititthickens, lowheat melted generousf *cup) cup)melted 150g.g.(5(5oz., oz.,generous little,150 Add,little littleby bylittle, Add, lemon fewdrops dropslemon Addaafew time.Season. Season.Add thetime. beatingail allthe butter, butter,beating juice,and cloth. through aaclotho juice, andstrain strainthrough sauceinin thesauce addedtotothe maybe beadded stalksmay andstalks skinsand Mushroom Mushroomskins the the cooking. cooking. courseof ofthe thecourse dl.H(+ Prepare22dl. vtNBLANC BLANc- -Prepare II.SAUCE slucrVIN winesauce sauceIL White Whitewine

concentrated preparation preparation Ot. dl. (l(3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant I ",rp) cup) eoneentrated Season and strain through a wine. white with fisifumetmide fishfumet with white wine. Season and strain througb a cloth. clotho glazed). sAucE vIN BLANc sauce wine White White wine sauceIII m(for (forfish fisbtotobe he glazed). SAUCE1r-VIN BLANC (6 scant cup) - Boil Boil down down by by half half I1dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, seant f cup) lsh fish (6 tablespoons, scant } cup) fish I dl. {o which ,*rr, Velout| Velouté sauce to which 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant f cup) fish ftnnet,made fumet, madewith withwhite white wine, wine, has hasbeen been added. added. over low heat, Add Add 22 egg yolks, yolks, cook cook for for aa few few moments moments over low heat, 75 g. (3 o2.,6. little, by little incorporating, beating and incon:,onl.ting, little by little, about about 75 g. (3 oz., 6 pieces. Season and tablesfoons) butier divided into into tiny tiny pieces. Season and strain.

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Mayonnaise is the basis FRoIDEs COLD COLD SAUCES. SAUCES. sAUcEs SAUCES FROIDES -- Mayonnaise is the basis and cold many cold of ofmany cold sauces sauces which which are are used used for for hors-dezvre hors-d'œuvre and co Id in a number of ways. Some of the varied be may entrdes,and entrées, and may be varied in a number of ways. Sorne of the

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best best known known cold cold sauces sauces are are given given below' below.

in a small mortar Aioli or beurre deProvence-Pound de Provence - Pound finely finely in a small mortar Aïoli orberure

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yolk and aa pinch of salt. Mix 55 cloves c10ves garlic. garlic. Add Add I1 raw raw egg egg yolk and pinch of salt. Mix by little, stirring all little the mortar, into pestle. Pour ttre wittr with Pour into the mortar, Little by little, stirring ail

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generous cup) olive oil. time,2f dl. (scant (seant It pint, pint, cup) olive oil. juice and a few drops of water to Add a f"w dtop. drops lemon lemon and a few drops of water to sauce. the thin thin down down the the consistency consistency of sauce. together hardANcHoIs - Pound Anchovy SAUCE ANCHOIS Pound together hardAnchovy sauoe. sauce. sAUcE pur6e or paste. Add oil, vinegar, and anchovy and eggi boiled boiled eggs and anchovy purée or paste. Add oil, vinegar, and a a little little pepper. pepper. ANDALoUSE - Mayonnaise sauce to sAUcE ANDALOUSE Andalouse Andalouse sauce. sauce. SAUCE - Mayonnaise sauce to concentrated tomato its added has been which I which has been added i its weight weight of of concentrated tomato peeled, cut in dice and cooked in juice pimentos, sweet and juice and sweet pimentos, peeled, eut in dice and cooked in oil. oil. the

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goose (Engllsh cookery)' and goose duck and duck (English cookery). very little sugartill with very the apples with Cook the little sugar till cinnamon. with powdered cmnamon. Flavour with are soft. soft. Flavour they are as accompaniment to a roast used as is commonly used sauce is This sauce accompaniment to a roast Holland. and Holland. England, Belgium and Germany, England, in Germany, in (English cnokery). sfucE meat (English for cold meat sauce for Cambridge sauce Cambridge cookery). SAUCE egg yolks, anchovy hard-boiled egg together hard-boiled Pound together c.ll,tsRlDcn - Pound CAMBRlDGEyolks, anchovy Add-English tarragon. Add and tarragon. chervil and chives, chervil c&pers, chives, fillets, capers, fillets, English Rub mayonnaise' for as vinegar and in oil oil and vinegar as for mayonnaise. Rub Beat in mustard. Beat mustard. parsley and a chopped parsley and Add chopped cloth. Add or aa clotho sieve or fine sieve through aa fine through a pinch of ofcayenne. pinch cayenne. vegetalles boiled vegetables other boiled and other (for asparagus asparagus and saucc (for Chandlly sauce Chantilly which sauce.Ito Mayonnaise sauce cHANinrv -- Mayonnaise sAUcE CHANTILLY coH). SAUCE served cold). / to which served added. has been been added. cream has stifly whipped cream salpicon of A fine fine salpicon cINcALAIsE - A sAUcE CINGALAISE sauoe. SAUCE Cingalaiie sauce. Cililgllllaise of boiled pimentos, tomatoes, tomatoes, boiled sweet pimentos, hard-6-oiled egg yolks, sweet with curry seasoned with cucumbers, seasoned and cucumbers, courgettes (zucchini), and courgettes juice. Add chopped lemon juice. and lemon oil and with oil mixed with Jatt and mixed and salt and Add pLrsley and chives. and chives. p~rsley Mayonnaise sauce I to coLLrouRE - - Mayonnaise sAUcE COLLIOURE sauce. SAUCE Collioure sauce. sauce / to Collioure and purte of anchovies and of anchovies or purée essence or added essence been added has been which has which garlic. grated little grated garlic. parsley, with with aalittle chopped parsley, chopped Season with oil, cnrssoNNdne - -Season sAUcECRESSONNIÈRE sauce. SAUCE Ci-essonniore sauce. with oil, Cressonnière watercress and finely chopped pepper, finely and salt vinegar, vinegar, salt and pepper, finely chopped watercress and finely yolks. Mix. Mix. eggyolks. hard-boiled egg choppedhard-boiled chopped sAUcE venison (English cold venison forcold CumbertanOsauce @nglishcookery). Cumberland sauce for cookery). SAUCE chopped shallot, tablespoon chopped smalltabJespoon Add 1 small cuMBERLAND - Add CUMBERLAND shallot, orange tablespoons)orange drained, 22 tablespoons (3(3tablespoons) anddrained, blanchedand blanched and1I blanched, and andblanched, fine julienneand cutininaafine lemon peelcut andlemon and pint,seant scant cup) melteddl.(t($pint, mustardtoto 2dl. tablespoon bilonmustard tablespoon melted cup) port, the juice of scantcup) dl. ($ pint,seant Add22dl. red cuirant jeliy. Add port, of red ginger and cayenne' salt, with Season lemon. and orange an an orange Season with salt, and cayenne. Pound together 44 DIJoNNAISE sAUcEDlJONNAISE sauce.SAUCE Dijonnaisesauce. Dijonnaise tablespoons (5 tablespoons) yolksand and44tal';.lesP04:ms eggyolks hardlboiled egg hard-boiled salt and pepper. Beat with oil withsaJt S-easonwith mustard.Season Dijonmustard. Dijon maYonnaise. likea amayonnaise. lemon juicetike andlemonjuice and sAUcE GRIBIcITE shellfish).SAUCE (forcold andsbeUfish). fishand coldfish saucre(for Gribichesauce Gribiche GRlBICHEpaste, beaten with oil and yolksreduced reducedtotoa apaste, eggyolks Hard-boiled egg Hard-boiled beaten with oi! and

for sauce for Apple sauce Apple

FoMrr,nsAUx POMMES sAUcE AUX SAUCE -

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823

SAUCE SAUCE

Mayonnaisesauce sauce(Robert (RobertCarrier) Carrier) Mayonnaise

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SAUCE SAUCE cAVIAR CAVIAR -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar mortar 25 25 g. g. (l (1 o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) caviare. Add, pounding pounding constantly, constantly, 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (scant fi caviare. Add, sieve, add cup) cup) mayonnaiie. mayonnaise. Strain Strain through through aa fine fine sieve, add itit to to 22dl' dl. (+ (1 pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) mayonnaise mayonnaise and and blend blend well. wel1. MAYoNNAISE AU Mayonnaise MayoIDlaise sauce sauce with with cress. cresso sAUcE SAUCE MAYONNAISE AU cRESsoN CRESSON -- Add Add to to the the mayonnaise, mayonnaise, kept kept very very thick, thick, chopped chopped and and pressed pressed cress. cresso Green Green mayonnaise. mayoIDlaise. sAUcE SAUCE vERTE VERTE -- Add Add mayonnaise mayonnaise to to aa pur6e purée of of green green herbs herbs (spinach, (spinach, watercress, watercress, parsley, chervil, chervil, tarragon, tarragon, all al! blanched, blanched, cooled cooled in in water water and pounded in in aa mortar). mortar). Strain. Strain. Russe Mayonnaise MayoIDlaise sauce sauce dà la la russe. russe. sAUcE SAUCE MAYoNNATsE MA YONNAISE A Àu LA RUSSE pint, lf cups) mayonnaise Add to 33 dl. dl. @ (~pint, mayonnaise 44 dl. dl. (f, Gpint, pint, scant scant 22 -- Addto jelly and I1tablespoon vinegar. cups) liquid Iiquidjellyand vinegar. Whisk Whisk on on ice ice until until the mixture on the the character of of aa mousse. mousse. (Use (Use for for mixture takes takes on moulded moulded vegetable vegetable salads.) salads.) MAYoNNAISE AUx Mayonnaise MayoIDlaise sauce sauce with with shrimps. shrimps. sAUcE SAUCE MAYONNAISE AUX cnsvEirEs CREVETTES -- Pound Pound in in aa mortar mortar 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., {t cup) cup) shrimps shrimps and and 33 tablespoons (scant (scant i cup) mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Put Put this this mixture through aa fine sieve, sieve, add add itit to to 22 dl. dl. ($ (t pint, pint, carmine, drop of with a colour cup) mayonnaise, scant and scant cup) mayonnaise, colour with a drop of carmine, and mixwell. mix weil. trl.a.voNNusB sAUcE with tarragon. Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce sauce with tarragon. SAUCE MAYONNAISE AÀ L'EsrRAcoN L'ESTRAGON - Add Add to to the the mayonnaise, mayonnaise, kept kept very very thick, thick, some sorne tarragon. fresh chopped, finely finely chopped, fresh tarragon. Pour over Mint Mint sauce sauce (English (English cookery). cookery). sAUcE SAUCE MENrI{E MENTHE - Pour over chopped fresh 50 g. 50 g. (2 (2 oz.), oz.), shredded shredded or or chopped fresh mint min1 4 4 dl. dl. (| Ci pint' pint, salt, pepper Season with scant cups) boiling seant 2 2 cups) boiling vinegar. vinegar. Season with salt, pepper and and sugar. brown or white brown or white sugar. Add to 5 dl. sAUcE MousQUETAInr sauce. SAUCE Mousquetaire M.[)usoquetaiÏre sauce. MOUSQUETAIRE - Add to 5 dl. (3 Mayonnaise sauce (scant pint,2f, cups) Mayonnaise 2i cups) sauce 1,2 /, 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (seant all till ail in white cooked in shallot cooked chopped shallot tablespoons) wh.ite wine wine till tablespoons) chopped glaze. meat glaze. dissolved meat tablespoon dissolved and 1I tablespoon is absorbed, absorbed, and liquid is liquid ofcayenne. Add aa pinch Add pinch of cayenne. r,q, CRÈME cnDm -MoUTARDE À A LA sAUcE MOUTARDE sauce. SAUCE and cream cream sauce. Mustard and Mustard with aa Season with cream. Season very thick thick cream. to 1 Dijon mus mustard Add t+ Dijon I very Add tard to to juice, salt whisk to pepper. Mix well with with aa whisk Mix weil and pepper. salt and lemon juice, little lemon little

vinegar vinegarlike like aa mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Season Seasonwith with salt salt and and pepper' pepper. Add Add chopped chopped gherkins, gherkins, capers, capers, parsley, parsley,chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. Add Add the the egg whites whites cut eut in in aa short shortjulienne. julienne. Horseradish H()rsleraldi!.h sauce. sauce. sAUcE SAUCE RAIFoRT RAIFORT -- Mix Mix grated grated horsehorse-

radish breadcrumbs soaked soaked in in milk milk and and squeezed. squeezed. radish with with breadcrumbs

Season and sugar. sugar. Add Add thick thick fresh fresh cream cream and and aa little !ittle Season with with salt salt and

vinegar.

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Indienne sauce. SAUCE INDIENNE INDIENNE - Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce sauce 1 sauce. sAUcE seasoned seasoned with with curry curry and and with with chopped chopped chives chives added. added. Maltaise Maltaise sauce sauce (for (for asparagus). asparagus). sAUcE SAUCE MALTATSE MALTAISE - Mayon' Mayonnaise to which which the the juice juice of of aa blood blood orange orange and and aa naise sauce sauce / to julienne julienne ofblanched, of blanched, rinsed rinsed and and dried dried orange orange peel peel have have been been

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added. added. Mayonnaise MayoIDla.lse sauce sauce I.I. sAUcE MAYoNNusr - lngredients.33 egg egg yolks, yolks, 55 dl. dl. (scant (seant pint, pint, 2f 2* cups) cups) olive olive oil, oil, I1tablespoon vinegar vinegar juice, 11 teaspoon white pepper. or lemon lemonjuice, teaspoon salt, salt, pinch pinch of ofwhite pepper. or Method. Method. Put Put the the egg egg yolks yolks into into aa bowl. bowl. Add Add the the salt salt (very (very or lemon Jemon juice' juice. white pepper and a few drops vinegar or dry), white Mix these these ingredients with with aa whisk, not not beating too too hard. hard. Mix the oil, drop by by drop at at first, first, then then in in a thin thin trickle, trickle, Add the or with with a wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Absorb Absorb beating either with a whisk whisk or beating the the whole whole of the the oil into the the mayonnaise in in this way. Thin Thin the consistency of of the sauce sauce from from time to to time lime by by down the juice. As soon adding a few drops of of the vinegar or lemon lemonjuice. soon as as adding

the the sauce sauce is is finished, add, add, beating beating all ail the the time, time, 2 2 or or 33

tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons, or or scant scant Ii cup) cup) boiling boiling water. water. This is to preserve preserve the the texture texture of of the mayonnaise mayonnaise and prevent prevent it is to be kept for some it from'curdling'if from 'curdling' ifit sorne time. success in To be sure of To be sure of success in making this this sauce, sauce, bear bear the following points in mind: mind : The oil. The and oil. 1. Keep to exact proportions of 1. Keep to the the exact of egg egg and (+ pint, egg is 2 dl. dl. (1 maximum maximum amount of oil is pint, scant cup) per per egg of medium size. yolk ofmedium 2. Use oil at room temperature, and if, in winter, the oil has has yolks' adding it to the yolks. wann it very slightly before coagulated, before adding coagulated, warm the beginning' When the at the beginning. by drop at 3. Add Add the oil oil drop by 3. little, let it pour in a very thin trickle. begins to thicken a !ittle, sauce begins (old recipe). SAUCE MAYoNNATsE --'Put sAUcE MAYONNAISE II (old Mayonnaise sauce n Mayonnaise 'Put salt and little salt bowl 2 fresh egg yolks, aa !ittle medium-sized bowl into into aa medium-sized quickly with with aa white pepper and aa little tarragon vinegar. Stir quickly little it begins to thicken, blend in, little as it soon as spoon. As soon wooden spoon. care vinegar, taking care oil and a little vinegar, olive oil tablespoon olive by little, 1I tablespoon bowl' of the bowl. sides of against the sides sauce against to beat the sauce the of the whiteness of the whiteness depends the 'On this 'On this continued continued beating depends little oil, aa little add more oil, on more more body, body, add takes on As itit takes mayonnaise. mayonnaise. As jelly. ItIt isis aspic jelly. little aspic the beginning, aa little at the vinegar and, more more vinegar and, at to time, to at aa time, little at put these to put these ingredients in aa little essential essential to prevent curdling. prevent curdling. glasses oil, preparation 22 glasses oil, ~] glass 'You will this preparation need for for this will need 'You jelly and appetising to give an aPIJellSHlg aspic and enough tarragon vinegar to aspic jelly To make make itit whiter, add lemon juice.'(Car6me, L'Art de tas te. To taste. siicle.) au XIX" siècle.) la cuisine française la cuisine frangaise au and coat coat salads, and mixed salads, (thick' to to bind bind mixed Mayonnaise sauce sauce lIII Mayonnaise i (tWck, (scant ~{ dl. (seant Add to to 21 2t dl. MAYoNNAIsE -- Add sAUCE MAYONNAISE foodstuffs). SAUCE various various foodstuffs). (6 tablespoons, seant scant ~j dl. (6 generous cup) pint, generous mayonnaise 11 dl. cup) mayonnaise pint, (see JELL jelly stock well' JELLY)' stock (see melted Meal Meat jelly cup) Y). Whisk weil. cup) melted jelly has the mayonnaise, the to the the mayonnaise, added to has been been added As soon soon as as the the jelly As quickly. very quickly. will set set very promptly, because because itit wU! used promptly, must be sauce must be used sauce chaud-froid White chaud-frOid way as as White (This sauce in the the sa same used in me way (This sauce isis used sauce.) sauce.) off finished off be finished Thick orjelly-strengthened mayonnaise may be Thick ingredients of the the ingredients any of or with any various flavourings or with with various sauces. mayonnaise sauces. for the different mayonnaise the different specified for vtlvoNnalsn ÀA sAUcE MAYONNAISE withanchovy. anchovy. SAUCE M:avc)llJlai!'ie sauce with Mayonnaise sauce or essence or anchovy essence small tablespoon anchovy Add 11 small L'ANCHOIS L'ANcHoIs - - Add generous cup) pint, generous cup) paste to dl. (scant I pint, to 2! dl. or paste anchovy pur6e or Mix weil. well. IlWL y u'uualO'IC. Mix mayonnaise. AU MAYoNNAISE AU sAUcE MAYONNAISE with caviare. caviare. SAUCE saucewith Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce

frothy. little frothy. sauce aa little render the the sauce render pimentos, finely 22 pimentos, up finely Chop up NIgolsE -- Chop sAUcE NiÇOISE sauce. SAUCE Nigoise sauce. purde and few and aa few (3 tablespoons) tomato purée tablespoons) tomato tablespoons (3 add 2 tablespoons add 285 add to to 285 sieve and and add coarse sieve Pass through through aa coarse leaves oftarragon. oftarragon. Pass leaves (* pint) Mayonnaise I. sauce 1. Mayonnaise sauce nrl. (~pint) ml. three A mixture mixture of of three oRIENTALE -- A sAUcE ORJENTALE sauce. SAUCE Orientale sauce. Orientale in to afondue afondue in cooked to tomatoes cooked parts Mayonnaise III, tomatoes sauce III, Mayonnaise sauce parts sweet of sweet salpicon of and aa salpicon saffron, and with saffron, and seasoned seasoned with oil and oil peppers. PARISIENNE -s,l,ucr PARISIENNE (for cold asparagus). SAUCE cold asparagus). sauce (for Parisian sauce (Petits suisses or sttisses or Gervais cheeses cheeses (Petits small Gervais in a:a bowl bowl 22 small Pound in Pound and with salt salt and Season with cheese). Season g.,2 cream cheese). Philadelphia cream oz. Philadelphia 50 g., 50 2 oz. juice like mayonnaise. like aa mayonnaise. lemon juice and lemon paprika. Beat with oil oil and Beat with paprika. chervil. chopped chervil. Add 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped Add with oil, oil, Season with PRovENQALe -- Season sauce. SAUCE sAUcE PROVENÇALE Provengal sauce. Provençal peeled tomatoes, hardtomatoes, hardof peeled pepper, aa mixture mixture of salt and and pepper, vinegar, salt vinegar, parsley, al! all chopped. chopped. gherkins and and parsley, capers, gherkins boiled eggs, capers, boiled garlic. little garlic. Flavour with aa liule oil, vinegar, with oil, Season with RAVIcoTE-- Season sAUcERAVIGOTE Ravigote sauce. SAUCE chives, parsley, onions, chives, mixture of capers, onions, pepper, aa mixture salt and pepper, all ...chopped. tarragon, ail chervil and and tarragon, l1'VIJIJ .... 'u. cherviJ sauce /I Mayonnaise sauce sauce. SAUCE sAUcE nfuouuoE -- Mayonnaise R6moulade sauce. RémouJade gherkins' essence' gherkins, anchovy essence, mustard, anchovy added mustard, has been been added which has to which to chopped. all chopped. chervil, ail parsley and andchervil, capers, parsley capers, by seasoning with oil, made by also made sauce isis also Rbmoulade sauce Rémoulade

x/xe

2t

hard-boiled eggs, of nara··Dc,uea pepper aa mixture mixture of and pepper salt and vinegar, salt vinegar, allchopped. chopped. herbs, ail gherkinsand and herbs, capers, gherkins capers, some }v!ayonnaise Mayonnaise Add totosorne RUSSE - - Add sAUcE RUSSE sauce. SAUCE Russian sauce. Russian caviare puree made with caviare made with volume of ofaapurée quarter of itsvolume ofits sauce 1I aaquarter sauce pounded all pounded (coral, etc.)of lobster, ail parts (coral, ofaalobster, creamy parts and the thecreamy and mustard. sieve. Addmustard. fine sieve. rubbedthrough through aafine andrubbed and

t

82s 825

SAUCE SAUCE

Vinaigrette sauce (Robert Carrier\ Vinaigrette sauce (Robert Carrier)

826 826

SAUCE SAUCE Sardalaise sauce. sauce. sAUcE SAUCE sARDALAISE SARDALAlSE -- Pound 66 hard-boiled hard-boiled Sardalaise egg tablespoons (3 tablespoons tablespoons or scant scant It egg yolks yolks with with 22 or 3 tablespoons cup) thick thick fresh fresh cream. Add Add to to 4 large tablespoons (5 large large cup) tablespoons) fresh fresh sieved sieved truffies. truffies. tablespoons) Beat Beat this this sauce with with oil oil and and lemon lemon like a a mayonnaise, mayonnaise, season with witb salt salt and and pepper pepper and add I1 tablespoon Armagnac. Armagnac. season Shallot sauce sauce (for (for raw raw oysters oysters and and shellfish). shellfish). Shallot

sAUcE SAUCE

ÉCHALOTE -- Vinegar Vinegar to to which which has been been added finely chopped EcHaI-ors and freshly milled milled pepper. pepper. shallot seasoned seasoned with salt salt and shallot sauce (for goose goose and cold pork). pork). sAUcE SAUCE sufnolsE SUÉDOISE -Swedish sauce sugar are Mayonnaise to to which which apples apples cooked cooked without without sugar Mayonnaise added, seasoned seasoned with grated grated horseradish horseradish or mustard. added, sauce. sAUcE SAUCE TARTARE TARTARE - Mayonnaise made with Tartare sauce. hard-boiled egg yolks yolks and with with chopped chopped chives added. hard-boiled sauce. sAUcE SAUCE LA LA vARENNE VARENNE -- Mayonnaise to La Varenne sauce. and chopped parsley and which dry duxelles, made with oil and chervil, have been been added. added. chervil. Put into aa bowl 4 SAUCE vERDURETTE VERDURETTE -- Put sauce. sAUcE Verdurette sauce. chopped chives which large tablespoons tablespoons (5 large tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped large

Mme de de Pompadour Pompadour with coat coat of of arms arms of of Mme Sauceboat with Sauceboat (Musie des Arts décoratifs) dicoratifs) des Arts (Musée

drained, 22 finely and drained, in water have been been boiled, boiled, cooled water and cooled in have (3 tabletablespoons (3 hard-boiled egg yolks and and 2 tablespoons chopped hard-boiled parsley. Add Add oil, tarragon and chopped chervil, and parsley. chervil, tarragon spoons) chopped pepper. vinegar, salt and pepper. l'rrurrr -Vinaigrette sauce. sAUcE À A L'HUILE vINAIGRETTE, SAUCE sAUcE VINAlGRETTE, Vinaigrette sauce. SAUCE is made seasoned at table. This seasoning is Salads are usually seasoned to 33 proportion of po on vinegar in the the proportion vinegar to scant tables tablespoon of 11 scant in tablespoons (scant ti cup) oil. Add salt and pepper. tablespoons with asasSeparately is served served with prepared Vinaigrette sauce sauce is Separately prepared paragus, cauJifiower, also served served with paragus, It isis also fish, etc. etc. It cauliflower, boiled boiled fish, parsley and calf's and chopped parsley addition of chopped the addition with the calf 's head, head, but but with onion, and sometimes calf 's brain. thickened with pounded calf's sometimes thickened Vincent mayonnaise aa some mayonnaise vlNcsNr -- Add to sorne sAUcE VINCENT Vincent sauce. SAUCE purée of (sorrel, parsley, parsley, chervil, watercress, green herbs chervil, watercress, puree of green herbs (sorrel, chives and burnet) and chopped hard-boiled egg egg yolks.

muslin bag bag and and sieve or or muslin fine sieve through aa fine Pass this this syrup syrup through Pass any rum or kirsch, rum or any recipe, with with kirsch, to the the recipe, according to flavour itit according flavour other liqueur. other dishes, pouring sweet dishes, for pou over sweet is used used for syrup is This thickened thickened syrup This ring over place of the place puddings, etc. It takes of etc. It takes the such as as tarts, tarts, puddings, hot or or cold, cold, such hot purpose. for this this purpose. is normally normally used used for which is sauce, which apricot sauce, apricot in the the Made in FRAMBoIsEs -- Made sAUcE AUX AUX FRAMBOISES sauce. SAUCE Raspberry sauce. Raspberry for raspberries for substituting raspberries sauce, substituting way as as Slrawberry Strawberry sauce, same way same strawberries. strawberries. strawUse either either strawFRAISEs -- Use sAUcE AUX AUx FRAlSES sauce. SAUCE Strawberry sauce. Strawberry jam or pulp, diluted syrup and and with syrup diluted with strawberry pulp, fresh strawberry or fresh berry berry jam liqueur. flavoured with with liqueur. flavoured porin pordinner service, service, in Part of of dinner snucdnu -- Part SAUCEBOAT. SAUCEBOAT. SAUCIÈRE generally oval in form. form. oval in metal, generally celain celain or or metal, double bottom with aadouble bottom supplied with are often often supplied sauceboats are Silver Silver sauceboats heated. which which can can be be beated.

pouR LES DESSERT ENTREMETS LES ENTREMETSDESSERT SAUCES. SAUCES sAUcEs POUR Apricot sauce. ripe apricots apricots Rub 12 12 ripe L'lBRtcot -- Rub A L'ABRICOT sauce. SAUCE sAUcE À pulp into through into aa Put the the pulp sieve or crush in the blender. Put through aa fine sieve (scant pint, pint, 2f cups) small copper pan cups) pan and dl. (scant with 55 dl. dilute it with and dilute ligbt scwn and ove from from remove and rem offscum light syrup. syrup. Bring to the boil, take off heat when the muslin bag bag Pass through through aa muslin spoon. Pass coats aa spoon. the sauce sauce coats or fine strainer. liqueur. with 1I tablespoon tablespoon liqueur. Flavour with strainer. Flavour Apricot sauce, to hot hot is used an accompaniment accompaniment to as an used as sauce, which is or on the the cold, depending depending on served hot hot or or cold, can be be served cold sweets, sweets, can or cold nature of made smoother smoother can be be made If served served hot, hot. itit can these dishes. dishes. If of these in quantity of of fresh fresh butter. butter. small quantity very small in texture adding aa very by adding texture by When used, the the are used, or bottled bottled apricots apricots are canned or When stewed, stewed, fresh, fresh, canned syrup sauce. for diluting diluting the the sauce. used for should be be used syrup should jam Apricot apricot jam diluting apricot be made made by by diluting sauce can can also also be Apricot sauce with flavoured, and fiavoured, should be be strained strained and This sauce sauce should hot water. water. This with bot as as described described above. above. Cherry fresh Prepare with with fresh AUX CERISES cERIsEs -- Prepare sauce. SAUCE sAUcE AUX Cherry sauce. cherry jam in for Apricol pulp or way as as for Apricot in the the same same way cherry pulp cherry jam or cherry sauce. It isis used sweets. hot or or cold cold sweets. for hot accompaniment for used as as an an accompaniment sauce.It Chocolate (a g. (4 100 g. Moisten 100 f. CRÈME cnBrr,m AU AU CHOCOLAT cHocot-Ar -- Moisten Chocolate sauce sauce I. oz.) pint, scant scant cup) cup) with 22 dl. dl. (-t grated semi-sweet semi-sweet chocolate chocolate with oz.) grated $ pint, lukewarm softens. Add Add 33 low heat heat until until itit softens. water. Stir Stir over over low lukewarm water. tablespoons (scant ti cup) tablespoon fresh cream cream and and 11 tablespoon thick fresh cup) thick tablespoons (scant butter. butter. This cold. hot or or cold. This sauce sauce is is served served hot Chocolate softened Add softened cHocoI-Are -- Add cRiME AU AU CHOCOLATE Chocolate sauce sauce II. II. CRÈME sweet (6 tablespoons, custard scant ~i cup) c.rp)custard tablespoons, scant to 1I dl. dl. (6 chocolate to sweet chocolate cream, for Cuslard cream prepared according to the the recipe recipe for Custard cream cream, prepared according to (see (see CREAMS.) CREAMS.) Custard creams. CREAMS, Cuslard Custard creams. sauces -- See See CREAMS, Custard sauces Pineapple syrup in in which which Usesyrup L'^a.NeNAs -- Use Pineapple sauce. sauce. SAUCE sAUcE ÀA L'ANANAS pineapple thicken with with pineapple has Bring to to the the boil and thicken boil and has been cooked. Bring been cooked. 1I tablespoon or cornstarch. cornstarch. tablespoon arrowroot arrowroot or

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great variety large of saucissons, saucissons, large variety of There isis aa great SAUCISSON SAUCISSON -- There sliced. are served served sliced. sa usages which sausages which are

The Thesaucisson saucisson (French (French Government TouristOffice) Ofice) Government Tourist

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SAUERKRAUT SAUERKRAUT

Varieties of saucisson: 1. Sa ucisson de ménage; 2. Saucisson de Paris; 3. Saucisson de Lyon; 4. Saucisson

d'Arles; 5. Lanza de Corse; 6. Darush salami; 7. Milan salami; 8. Hungarian salami

Among the the best-known best-known French French saucissons saucissons which which require require Among no cook..ing cooking are are those those of of Lyon, Lyon, Arles, Arles, Lorraine, Lorraine, Brittany, Brittany, no Mortagne, Strasbourg Strasbourg and and Luchon. Luchon. Mortagne, produces those Italy produces from Milan, those from Milan, Bologna Bologna and and Florence. Florence. Italy The mortadella mortadella of of Bologna Bologna isis also also aa saucisson. saucisson. The Salamicomes from Italy, Italy, Germany, Germany, Switzerland Switzerland and and other Salami cornes from countries of ofEurope. countries Europe. The manufacture manufacture of of these these large large sa sausages is strictly strictly conconThe usages is trolled in in France. France. They They may pork meat may be be made made with with pork meat only, only, trolled lean and and fat, fat, to to which which there there may may sometimes sometimes be for be added, added, for lean certain specialities, specialities, beef, beef, veal veal or or mutton. mutton. certain Any sausages sausages containing containing horse, horse, donkey donkey or or mule mule meat, meat, or or Any having aaproportion of flour, must must carry carry labels labels detailing detailing these these having proportion offlour, contents exactly. exactly. contents Dried sausage, sausage, such such as as cornes from Arles comes from Arles or Lyon, the or Lyon, Dried saucisson de mtnage, the de ménage, the saucisson saucisson de de montagne montagne and and other other saucisson sausage of the same type, type, is is eaten eaten raw, raw, as as hors-d' hors-deuvre. sa usage of the same œuvre. The saveloy saveloy sausage sausage of Paris, Lyon, of Paris, Lyon, Nancy Nancy and and other other The places is poached water and and eaten eaten as as hors-d'œuvre, hors-deuure, hot hot or or places is poached in in water cold. cold. Household or home-made sausage. SAUCISSON sAucrssoN DE on rrmN.lce, home-made sausage. MÉNAGE, Household or sAUcIssoN vrEux This sausage sausage is in large SAUCISSON VIEUX - This is made made in large pig's pig's intestines with composed of of lean intestines with a a forcemeat forcemeat composed lean pork pork meat, meat, minced seasoned with g. (l+ minced or or chopped, chopped, seasoned with 45 45 g. (1 t oz., oz., 2 2 tabletablespoons) salt, I teaspoon spoons) salt, 1I teaspoon teaspoon pepper, pepper, 1teaspoon peppercorns, peppercorns, fi teaspoon teaspoon saltpetre saltpetre and and a a little little chopped chopped garlic garlic for for every every I1 kg kg (2+lb.) (2i lb.) forcemeat. forcemeat. Fill Fill the the skins, skins, tie tie them them lengthways lengthways and and round, round, and and hang hang in in aa drying or 44 weeks weeks the the skin sk..in becomes becomes pink pink and and drying place. place. After After 33 or small small white white marks marks appear appear here here and and there there on on the the surface, surface, showing showing that that the the sausages sausages have'ripened'. have 'ripened'. This This sausage sausage is is eaten eaten when when itit has has become become well weil dried. dried. Lyon Lyon sausage sausage (dry). (dry). slucrssoN SAUCISSON DE DE rvoN LYON (src) (SEC) -- Ham Ham made made from from fresh fresh pork, pork, carefully carefully trimmed trimmed and and with with all ail fat fat removed, removed, is make this trus sausage. sa usage. The The meat meat is is chopped, chopped, and and is used used to to make seasoned seasoned with with 45 45 g. g. (lloz.,2 01- oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) salt salt and and It teaspoon teaspoon pepper pepper for for each each 11 kg. kg. (2| (2i lb.) lb.) meat. meat. Add, Add, for for every every I1 ke. kg. Qi (2i lb.) lb.) forcemeat, forcemeat, 135 135 g. g. (5 (5 oz., oz., generous pork fat fat taken taken from from aa firm firm piece piece ofpork of pork generous cup) cup) diced diced pork fat fat which which has has been been salted salted dry dry for.l0 fof 10 days. days. Add to this trus mixture mixture {1- teaspoon teaspoon white white peppercorns peppercorns and and aa Add to garlic. little chopped garlic. Press Press into into aa pig's pig's intestine intestine and and tie tie at at 4545little chopped cm. cm. (18-inch) (18-inch) lengths. lengths. Hang Hang in in aa drying drying place place and and leave 1eave for for 48 48 hours. hours, Press Press at at each each end end to to solidify solidify the the contents, contents, and and re-tie re-tie them. the sausages sausages lengthways lengthways and and crossways crossways so so as as to to them. String String the make make them them straight. straight. Hang Hang them them again again in in the the drying drying place, place, where where they they must must be be left 1eft for for 33 or or 44 months, months, until until they they are are very very dry. dry. Some and with with all ail gristle, gristle, etc. etc. removed, removed, Sorne beef, beef, well weil trimmed trimmed and may may be be added added to to the the pork. pork. This This addition addition hastens hastens the the drying drying of of the the sausages sausages and and does does not not harm harm the the quality. quality. Lyon Lyon sausage sausage isis eaten eaten raw raw as as hors-deuvre. hors-d'œuvre. pARrs Parisian Parisian saucisson. saucisson. sAUcrssoN-cERvELAs SAUCISSON-CERVELAS DE DE PARIS -- Made Made

with aa forcemeat forcemeat similar similar to to that that described described above, above, seasoned, seasoned, with (l| oz., g. 01with 40 40 g. o2;22 tablespoons) tablespoons) salt, pepper, aa salt, tf teaspoon teaspoon pepper, with pinch of pounded pimento pimento and of pounded and aa small small pinch of of salt saltpetre for pinch petre for (zjlb.). each 1I kg. kg, (2i Fill skins skins as as described described above. above. Divide into into each lb.). Fill sections of of equal equal length. Hang Hang the the sausages sausages above above the the stove stove sections for aa day day or or two so so that they dry dry and and redden in colour. colour. for Prepare for the table by poaching in water. water. Prepare Plain saucisson. saucisson. SAUCISSON-CERVELAS sAUcrssoN-cERvELAs ORDINAIRE oRDrNArnn -- Trim Trim Plain carefully sorne some lean pork and lean fresh fresh pork and remove remove ail all gristle. Chop carefully (l I lb.) oflean roughly. For every 55 kg. (lI (2f lb.) of lean meat add add 1I kg. (2i roughly. finely chopped, pork fat. chopped, fresh pork fat. finely (l oz., Season with g. (1 with 25 25 g. oz., 11 lj tablespoons) salt, salt, 1j teaspoon teaspoon Season pepper and a pinch pinch of saltpetre (2] lb.) pork. saltpetre to each each 1I kg; kg, (2i pepper Blend the mixture weB well and and press into gut. Oivide into beef gut. Divide it Blend into lengths of 20 to 30 cm. (8 (8 to 12 l2 inches), tying the ends of into each sausage. Smoke lightly. To cook. Poach in water or light stock for 30 to 45 minutes according to the size of ofthe according the sausages. These are are served served hot or cold, cold, usually accompanied by a hot or usually accompanied These potato salad. potato salado (Pickled cabbage). cHoucRourr SAUERKRAUT (Pickled SAUERKRAUT CHOUCROUTE -- Finely Finely shredded cabbage, cabbage, which shredded which has has been been fermented fermented in in brine flavoured juniper berries. berries. The The fermentation, fermentation, which flavoured with with juniper deprives cabbage of of a part part of of its nutritive nutritive value, value, makes it deprives the cabbage more more digestible. The indigestibility indigestibility attributed to sauerkraut really smoked and fat meats which really derives derives from from the salted or or smoked which normally accompany it. it. normally accompany The The fermenting fermenting of of the the cabbage cabbage leaves leaves encourages encourages the the production production of of lactic lac tic acid acid in in the intestine. This acid acid is the the antidote antidote for for colibacillosis. coli bacillosis. Preparation Preparation of of the cabbage. cabbage, Remove the green and and torn tom leaves Jeaves surrounding surrounding the the cabbage, cabbage, and and the the stem. With With the the help help of of a a slicing slicing device or or a a knife with with a large blade, blade, slice the the

T

Apparatus Barrel Apparatus for for shredding shredding cabbage cabbage Barrel with with sauerkraut sauerkraut Manufacture Manufactureof orsauerkraut sauerkraut T. T. Hopper Hopper into into which which the the cabbages cabbages are are fed; fed; A. A. Lid Lid with with shredder; shredder; L. L. Strips Strips of of shredded shreddedcabbage; cabbage; C. C. Layer Layerofcabbage; ofcabbage; S. S. Layer Layerofsalt ofsalt

828 828

SAUREL SAUREL cabbage cabbageflnely. finely.Wash Washititwell, weil,drain, drain,and andput putinto intoan anearthenearthenware wareciock crockwhich whichhas hasbeen beenlined linedwith withcabbage cabbageleaves leavesororvine vine leaves. Arrange the the cabbage cabbageinin layers, layers, pressed pressed down, down, each each leaves. Arrange layer layer sprinkled sprinkled with with sea sea salt salt (coarse (coarse salt) salt) and and strewn strewn with with juniper juruper berries. berries. Put Put aa handful handful of ofsea sea salt salt on on the the last last layer, layer,

illowing kg. (3* (3i lb.) lb.) salt salt for for every every 100 100 kg. kg. (220 (220 lb') lb.) allowing liI~ kg. cabbage. cabbage.

Covir Coyerwith withaacloth c10thand and set seton ontop topof ofititaaround round wooden wood enlid, lid, which isissmaller the thediameter diameterofofwhich smallerthan thanthe theaperture' aperture.Put Putaanonnonporous porousstone stoneon ontoP topof ofthe thelid. lid. Next Nextday day the the water waterwill will have have risen risen above abovethe thelid \id under under this this pressure. thatthis thisisisalways alwaysso' so.Keep Keepthe thebarrel barrelor orcrock crockin in pressure. S'ee Seethat an airy airy place. place. At At the the end end of of about about 33 weeks' weeks, when wh en no no more more an froth froth appears appears on on top top ofthe of the cabbage, cabbage, the the sauerkraill sauerkraut isis ready' ready. Replace the the liquid liquid with with fresh fresh water. water. Replace Each Each time time some sorne cabbage cabbage is is taken taken out, out, remove remove the the liquid liquid with aa wooden wood en bowl. bowl. After After taking taking out out the the cabbage cabbage add add fresh fresh with water, put put back back the the cloth, cloth, cover, coyer, and and store. store. water, Sauerkraut as as soup soup garnish. garnish. cHoucRourE CHOUCROUTE PouR POUR GARNITURE GARNITURE Sauerkraut DE DE porAGE POTAGE -- Wash, Wash, ioak soak and and press press the the sauerkraut, sauerkraut, and and put put itit in aa white white consommd consommé to to cook cook gently. gently. Drain Drain and and add add itit to to the the in soup. soup.

Sauerkraut ià I'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. cHoucRourn CHOUCROUTE A À l',q,rs.l'cIENNE L'ALSACIENNE Sauerkraut for aa few Soak 2| 2~ kg. kg. (51 (5~ lb.\ lb.) sauerkraut for few hours hours in in cold cold water' water. Soak Drain Drain by by pressing pressing it it well weil between between the the palms palms of of the the hands hands to to extract all ail the the water. water. Spread itit out, out, so so that that itit is is not not congealed congealed extract into lumps. lumps. Season Season with with salt and freshly freshly ground ground pepper' pepper. Put Put it it into add22 or heavy pan lined Iined with with smoked smoked bacon bacon rinds, rinds, and and add or 33 in a heavy clove, 3 quartered quartered carrots, carrots, aa large large onions, each stuck with aa c1ove, (3 oz., g. (3 oz., *~ cup) juniper garni, 75 g. juniper berries berries tied tied in in aa bouquet garni,75 "up) pork, aa slice slice of pork, (l I oz.) blanched blanched fat fat breast breast of muslin bag, 300 g. (II m,lrlin goose fat or or generous ~I cup) cup) go (5 oz., generous g. (5 1 50 g. ind 150 of ose fat smoked pork and of smoked

lard. the of the top of to the the top come to to come consommd to white consommé Add enough enough white Add the Boil on on the bacon. Boil larding bacon. of larding bards of with bards Cover with sauerkraut. sauerkraut. Coyer the Remove the hours. Remove for 44 hours. pan in oven for in the the oyen put the the pan stove, then then put pork. smoked pork. lean and and smoked vegetables, the vegetables, take the cooked, take sauerkraut isis cooked, the sauerkraut When When the the Arrange the pan. Arrange juniper berries the pan. of the out of berries out garni and and juruper bouquet bouquet garni the with the Garnish with dish. Garnish in aa deep deep dish. drained, in well drained, sauerkraut, sauirkriut, weil rectangles, into rectangles, pork cut cut into lean pork the lean slices, the pork cut into slices, cut into smoked smoked pork smoked and smoked sausages and poached Strasbourg Strasbourg sausages of ham, ham, poached thin slices of thin slices saveloys. saveloys. and shape and neat shape pared into into aa neat been pared have been potatoes which which have Add Add potatoes seParatelY. serve these these separately. boiled, or serve boiled, or garnishes' For For prepared with other garnishes. with other be prepared can be Sauerkraut Sauerkraut can goose, smoked go (U.S. beef ), smoked corned beef), brisket (U instance, .S. corned ose, aa salted brisket instance, aasalted

pork, or salt pork can be cooked in the smoked smoked loin loin of of pork, or salt pork can be cooked in the sauerkraut. sauerkraut. which are intended to impart their flavour All AJIthese thesemeats, meats, which are intended to impart their ftavour must be removed from the pan before the sauerkraut. totothe the sauerkraut, must be removed from the pan before the is completed, or they would be overcooked. cooking cooking is completed, or they would be overcooked. plepared in the Frankfurt manner is much the Sauikraut Sauerkraut prepared in the Frankfurt manner is much the but the Strasbourg sausages in the h l'alsacienne, as same same as à l'alsacienne, but the Strasbourg sausages in the by frankfurters. garnish garrushare arereplaced replaced by frankfurters. Alsace to accompany the sauerkrautwith ItItisiscustomiry customaryinin Alsace to accompany the sauerkraut with and boiled potatoes. aadish dish of ofpease-pudding pease-pudding and boiled potatoes. cHoucRoure A r'l strasbourgeoise. la i Sauerkraut Sauerkraut à la strasbourgeoise. CHOUCROUTE À LA This name is given sometimes to Sauer' srRAsBouRGEoIsE STRASBOURGEOISE - This name is given sometimes to Sauer(see above)' kraut kraut hàl'alsacienne l'alsacienne (see above). PouR cmNlrunr - Line Sauerkraut Sauerkraut garnish gamish I.1. cHoucRourE CHOUCROUTE POUR GARNITURE - Line bacon rinds, and sliced onions and aa casserole casserole wilh with lard, lard, bacon rinds, and sliced on ions and (21 lb.) soaked, rinsed and pressed carrots. carrots. Put Put in in I1 kg. kg. (2i lb.) soaked, rinsed and pressed garni and 12juniper berries tied in sauerkraut.Pttabouquet sauerkraut. Put a bouquet garni and 12 juruper berries tied in the sauerkraut. Moisten with a white muslin the middle middle of of the sauerkraut. Moisten with a white muslin in in the skimmed' has been fat the all not consommd consommé from from which which not ail the fat has been skimmed. Bring to the boil on top of the stove, Cover Coyer with with bacon bacon rinds. rinds. Bring to the boil on top of the stove, hours. then then cook cook in in the the oven oyen for for 33 hours. PouR GARNITURI Sauerkraut Sauerkraut garnish garnish II. II. csoucnourE CHOUCROUTE POUR GARNITURE with slices of onion and carrot' Put Line Line aa buttered buttered casserole casserole with slices of onion and carrot. Put been first washed, soaked, and which has the sauerkraut. the sauerkraut, which has been first washed, soaked, and this base. Season, and add abouquet garniand to pressed, on pressed, on to this base. Season, and add a bouquet garni and juniper berries tied in muslin. Moisten with water' ia fe* few juruper berries tied in muslin. Moisten with water. paper. Cook in the same way as above' Cover Coyer with with buttered buttered paper. Cook in the same way as above. ir I'allemande. cHoucRoure BN seun'oB A salad à Sauerkraut salad Sauerkraut l'allemande. CHOUCROUTE EN SALADE À the sauerkraut in awhite consommd or Cook L'ALLEMANDE L'ALLEMANDE -- Cook the sauerkraut in a white consommé or When the sauerkraul is cooked onions. whole with in water in water with whole onions. When the sauerkraut is cooked and cut them into small dice. Add to the onions and the oruons remove rem ove the cut them into sm ail dice. Addpepper' to the Season with oil' vinegar, salt and sauerkraut. Season drained sauerkraut. drained with oil, vinegar, salt and pepper. in a dome. Garnish with hardin aa bowl bowl in Arrange in well. Arrange Mix weil. Mix a dome. Garnish with hardslices ofcooked beetroot. and slices eggs and boiled eggs boiled of cooked beetroot. dtpartemenl of Maine-et-Loire, the département in the Town in SAUMUR -- Town SAUMUR of Maine-et-Loire, of the Loire and famous for its right bank the on situated situated on the right bank of the Loire and famous for its It has has given its name to a school. It cavalry school. and cavalry chdteau and château given its name to a where excellent dry white wines Anjou where in Anjou region in vinicultural region excellent dry white wines vinicultural sparkling wines attractive make also make These also produced. These are produced. are attractive sparkling wines champenoise' There are also rosis, mtthode the following following the méthode champenoise. There are also rosés, wines of Saumur-Champigny' red wines the red rosds and and the Cabernei rosés Cabernet of Saumur-Champigny. (See ANJOU.) ANJOU.) (See Ages the saupiquet was a wine Middle Ages In the the Middle SAUPIQUET -- In SAUPIQUET the saupiquet was a wine (grilled bread or toast) which hattt in withpa thiikened sauce sauce thickened with pain hallé (grilled bread or toast) which and also with waterfowl' Here t's rabbit, roast with served was was served with roast rabbit, and also with waterfowl. Here is gives in the Viandier for this Taillevent gives which Taillevent recipe which the recipe the in the Viandier for this

sauce: sauce: roast, toast some other roast, or other coney or forconey 'To make make saupiquet saupiquet for 'To toast sorne melt bacon fat in a frying bouillon, in-so*e soak and bread bread and soak in sorne bouillon, melt bacon fat in a frying To serve fry and small very cut up onion put pan,put ininsorne someonion cut up very small and fry it.it'To pan, serve 15 g' $ oz',2 cinnamon, 15 cup) cinnamon, oz.,~+cup) 50g.g.(2(2oz., io,ri,^tuk. four, take 50 g. (t oz., 2 tablespoon) small spices, oz'1Itablespoon) gingerand and77g.g-(i(toz., tablespoons) ginger tablespoons) small spices, the bread and all the Mixthe vinegar. Mix somevinegar. andsorne wineand iedwine somered bread and ail the sorne the roast" over pan, thenpour in a boil and togetherand boil in a pan, then pour over the spicestogether spices roast.' one made today in the south-west of similartotoone sauceisissimilar Thissauce This made today in the south-west of roast hare. accompanies roast whichaccompanies France which France hare. salted and smoked' The bothsalted been has that Herring SAUR SAUR - -Herring that has been both and smoked. The (See HERRING') soret'(See orsoret. sauretor formerly sauret wasformerly wordwas word HERRING.)

mackerel and somethemackerel resemblingthe fishresembling Longfish SAUREL- - Long SAUREL somepositive in I*ssand mackerelhorse called in England times times in England called horse mackere/. Less positive in it also lacks its false fins proper mackerel, ihe than colour colour than the proper mackerel, it also lacks its false fins on either side ofthe back' rowofspines ofspineson hasa arow andhas thetatail nearthe near il and either side of the back. so fine as that of the real is not quality, good of The flesh, The ftesh, of good quality, is not so fine as that of the real

mackerel. mackerel. name given to an thename mackerelisisthe horsemackerel thehorse U.S.A.the InInU.S.A. given to an bluefish is also Atlanticbluefish TheAtlantic fish'The tunafish. speciesofoftuna Atlanticspecies Atlantic is also

Nicolas) (Chedeville.Phol. Phot.Nicolas) garnie(Chédevil/e. Sauerkraut Sauerkrautgarnie

829 829

SAUSAGE SAUSAGE sometimes called horse mackerel, and more

closelyresembles resembles sometimes called horse mackerel, and more closely the saurel. the Prepare saurel. like mackerel (q.v.). Prepare like mackerel (q.v.). SAUSAGE. sAucrssE - This word comes from the Latin SAUSAGE. SAUCISSE - This word cornes from the Latin s alsisium,

fr om s al sus, salted.

salsisium, from salsus, salted. Sausages ofall kinds are usually bought already prepared. ofall kinds are usually bought already prepared. InSausages France ordinary sausages, made from fresh pork, are made In France ordinary sausages, made from fresh pork, are made both long and flat in shape. The flat sausagesare arecalled called both long and fiat in shape. The fiat sausages crtpinettes. They are grilled, fried in butter orlat, or boiled. crépinettes. They are grilled, fried in butter or fat, or boiled. ,dry' This last method is chiefly used for sausages or smoked This last metbod is chiefiy used for 'dry' sausages or smoked sausages, such as those of Frankfurt, Strasbourg, Spain sausages, such as those of Frankfurt, Strasbourg, Spain (chorizos), Vienna, etc. See also under PORK. (chorizos), Vienna, etc. See also under PORK. Augsburgerwiirste. sAucrssEs o'.q.ucsBouRc Made in beef Augsburgerwürste. SAUCISSES D'AUGSBOURG - - Made in beef gut, with a forcemeat of coarsely chopped lean pork mixed gut, a forcemeat of coarsely chopped lean pork mixed withwith bacon fat cut in small dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, with bacon fat cut in smaJl dice, seasoned with salt, pepper, cloves, nutmeg and saltpetre. These sausages, after-hiving after having cloyes, nutmeg and saltpetre. These sausages. been dried, are lightly smoked. They are poiched in water. been dried, are lightly sIDoked. They are poached in water. Chorizos, red sausages. sAUcrssES RoucEs - Spanish spec_ - Spanish specChorizos, red sausages. SAUCISSES ROUGES iality. They are made like Country sausages liee fOfif), iality. They are made like Country sa usages (see PORK), using pork forcemeat strongly flavoured with red p"pp"r, and using pork forcemeat strongly fiavoured with red pepper, and are used as an ingredient of pot6es. They are most frequently are used as an ingredient of potées. They are most frequently cooked with garbanzos, i.e. chick-peas, stewed stewed àd lali mode mode cooked with garbanzos, i.e. chick-peas, d Espagne (Spanish style).

d'Espagne (Spanish style).

Smoked sausages serveil with a salad of Smoked sausages served with a salad of cucumber, tomato and celeiac (Claire) cucumber, tomato and celeriac (Claire)

Frankfurt sausages or Frankfurterwiirste. sAucrssEs Frankfurt sa usages or Frankfurterwürste. SAUCISSES

FRANcFoRT

-

DE DE

German Gennan speciality, speciality, most most often often used used to to accom_ accompany sauerkraut, and also served hot, as hors-deuvre, with pany sauerkraut, and also served hot, as hors-d' œuvre, with grated horseradish. They are made from a forcemeat of lean grated horseradisb. They are made from a forcemeat of lean beef, trimmed of all fat and well beaten, and pork meat. beef, trimmed of ail fat and weil beaten, and pork meat. Saltpetre,is added to give a slightly pink colour. TLey are tied Saltpetre is added to give a slightly pink colour. They are tied together in pairs and smoked. together in pairs and smoked. Plunge the sausages into boiling water. Cover the pan, and Plunge the sa usages into boiling water. Coyer the pan, and poach, just boiling, for l0 minutes. Drain and serve. poach, just boiling, for 10 minutes. Drain and serve. Gehirnwiirste. Gehirnwürste. sAUcrssES SAUCISSES DE DE cERVELLE CERVELLE -- Made Made in in pork pork gut gut with with aa forcemeat forcemeat of of equal equal parts parts of of pork pork brains brains cooked cooked in in salted water to which vinegar has been added, and pork meat, salted water to which vinegar has been added, and pork meat, half halffat, fat, half halflean, lean, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt,pepper pepper and and mace. mace. The The sausages, tied together in pairs, are poached for 5 minutes in sa usages, tied together in pairs, are poached for 5 minutes in boiling andcooked cookedininbutter. butter. boilingwater, water,then thencooled cooledand Sausagm for garnish. sAucrssEs pouR GARNnunE Small Sausages for garnish. SAUCiSSES POUR GARNITURE-- Small sallaggs? called chipolatas, are used as a garnish. They are sausages, called chipolatas, are used as a garnish. They are pricked lightly with a needle and cooked under a grill or in the pricked lightly with a needle and cooked under a grill or in the oven, as indicated in the recipe. oyen, as indicated in the recipe. Grilled Grilledsausages. sa usages.sAucrssns SAUCISSEScnnrErs GRILLÉES- - Ordinary Ordinarylong longororflat fiat sausages are prepared in this way. sausages are prepared in this way. FRANCFORT -

830 830

Thelong longsausage sausageisisdivided dividedinto intolengths lengthsofof1212toto1515cm. cm.(5(5 The inches)ororleft leftwbole, whole,whatever whateveritsitslength, length,ininwhich whichcase caseit it toto6 6inches) twistedinto intoa acoil coiland andsecured securedwith wittr2 2skewers skewersput putinin isistwisted crossways. crossways. Grilledsausages sausagesshould shouldbebecooked cookedslowly slowlywith withmoderate moderate Grilled heat.They Theyare generallyserved aregenerally servedwith withmashed mashedpotatoes. heat. potatoes. Grttzwiirste. SAUCISSES sAucrssEsAU AuGRUAU cnulu- -Made porkgut Madeininpork gutinin10GrütZWÜTste. l0(4-inch)lengths cm.(4-inch) lengthswith witha aforcemeat forcemeatofofwheat wheaimeal mealcooked cm. cooked anaromatic aromaticstock, stock,and andrather porkskin, ratherfat fatpork skin,cooked cookedand ininan and chopped,seasoned seasonedwith withsalt, pepper, mace salt,pepper, maceand andchopped chopped chopped, peel.Submerge lemonpeel. Submerge the thesasausages for33minutes minutesininboiling lemon usages for boiliing water,drain drainand anddry drythem, them,and andtoss tossininbutter. butter. water, Knackwiirste. SAUCISSES sAucrssEs CROQUANTES cRoeuANTEs - -Made Madeininpork porkgut gut Knackwürste. withaaforcemeat forcemeat of partslean of55parts pork,33parts leanpork, partsbeef beefand parts with and22parts pork fat, freshpork fat,seasoned seasoned with withsalt, salt,cumin, garlicand cumin,garlic andsaltpetre. saltpetre. fresh Thesasausages aretied tiedtogether togetherininpairs, pairs,dried driedfor for44days, usages are days, ,The then smoked smoked cold. cold.They They are poached for arepoacbed for10l0minutes minutes ininwater. then watlr. Knoblauchwfirste.SAUCISSES slucrssEsÀAL'AIL L'ArL - - Sausage Sausageencased Knoblauchwürste. encasedinin pork gut gutmade madefrom fromaa forcemeat forcemeatof of fat fatand and lean pork, pork lean pork, seasoned with pepper, spices withsalt, salt, pepper, spicesand poundedgarlic. and pounded garlic. seasoned Kochwiirstelor orMettwiirste. sAucssEsÀABOUILLIR soutrrR_ KochWÜfstel Mettwürste. SAUCISSES - Made Made inin gut with beef gut with aaforcemeat forcemeat of pork IDeat of lean lean pork meatand beef andfresh pork fresh pork poached inin fat, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and saltpetre. saltpetre. Poached fat, water. water. Kiinigswiirste. SAUCISSES s.q,ucrssns ROYALES RoyALEs - - Made pork gut Made in in pork gut with with aa - Kônigswürste. forcemeat of parts of of equal equal parts of chicken chicken and partridge meat. and partridge forcemeat meat. Add Add chopped truffies truffies and and mushrooms, mushrooms, bind bind with with eggs, chopped eggs,season season with with pepper salt, and mace mace and and fiavour flavour with with Rhine salt, pepper and Rhine wine. wine. These sausages, sausages, which which are are rather rather large, large, are These are braised, braised, then then sliced when when cold cold and and served served as as hors-d'œuvre. hors-deuvre. sliced Sausages ài la la languedocienne. languedocienne. SAUCISSES Sausages sAucrssEs ÀA LA LA LANcUEDocTENNE -- Twist Twist 1I kg. (2* lb.) kg, (2i lb.) Toulouse LANGUEDOCIENNE Toulouse sausage (see sausage (see below) into into aa coil coil and and secure secure with wrth 22 crossed crossed skewers. below) skewers. Heat Fleat 33 tablespoons (4 (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) lard lard or goose fat or goose tablespoons fat in in aa sauté pan sautd pan put in and put in the the sausage. sausage. Add Add 44 chopped chopped garlic garlic cloyes and cloves and arrld aa garni. Cook with aa lid bouquet garni. lid on on for for 18 bouquet lg minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the sausage, put put itit on aa dish dish and and pour over the panjuices, pan juices, diluted sausage, diluted wrrh,z2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) vinegar, vinegar, moistened with 33 witb (| pint, pint, 1lfi cups) Demi-glace dl. (~ Demi-glace sauce (see (sie SAUCE) dl. SAUCE) and'l and I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ~* cup) tomato purée. puree. Boil (6 Boil for for aa few few ".rp) moments. moments. Add Add 3 tablespoons (4 tablespoons) capers pickled in chopped parsley parsley to the in vinegar, vinegar, and 11 tablespoon chopped ihe sauce. si.r"e. Long sausages. sAucrssEs LoNcuEs LONGUES -- Ordinary sausages, _ Long sa usages. SAUCISSES thus thus called caIJed to to distinguish distinguish them them from from the the fiat or flat sausages sausages- oi crtpinettes. crépinettes. Madriline Madrilène sausages. sausages. sAucrssEs SAUCISSES l,rlonntNss MADRILÈNES - Small usSmall sa sausages made in in beef beef gut with with a forcemeat forcemea t of of veal, fresh pork fat ages made and and sardine fillets in oil. These sausages sausages are tied into rings, poached poached for for 10 10 minutes minutes in in light light veal veal stock, cooled, and fried in in butter. butter. Nurnbergerwiirste. SAUCISSES DE DE NUREMBERG NUREMBERG _ - Made Made in in Nurnbergerwürste. sAUcrssES pork pork gut gut with with lean lean pork, pork, seasoned seasoned with with salt, pepper, pepper, thyme, thyme, nutmeg nutmeg and and marjoram, marjoram, with with the the addition addition of of bacon bacon fat fat cut cut in in small and flavoured ftavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. They They are are tied tied into'100_g. into'l OO-g. sm ail dice dice and (4-oz.l (4-oz.) sections sections and and fried fried in in butter. butter. Polnischewiirste. SAUCISSES DE DE por,ocNr POLOGNE -- Made Made in in pork pork Polnischewürste. sAucrssns gut, gut, in in 250 250 g. g. (9-oz.) (9-oz.) sections, sections, with with aa forcemeat forcemeat of of two_thirds two-thirds lean lean and and one-third one-third fat fat pork, pork, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, pimento pimento and and cloves, cloyes, and and bound bound with with pig's pig's blood, blood, allowing allowing t1 dl. tablespoonsscant scantj~cup) to 500 500g.g. lgenerous (generous Ilib.). These dl. (6(6tablespoons cup) to lb.). Th6se sausages sa usagesare aredried, dried, then then smoked. smoked. To To serve, serve, poach poachin in water. water. Rindffeischkochwtrste. Rindfleischkochwürste. sAucrssEs SAUCISSES DE DE BoEUF BOEUF A À soutrrn BOUILLIR _Made Madeinin beef beefgut gutwith with aa forcemeat forcemeat of of33parts parts lean lean beef beefand and 22 parts parts fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, seasoned seasoned with with salt, salt, pepper, pepper, coriander coriander and andsaltpetre. saltpetre.These Thesesausages sa usagesare aretied tiedininpaiis pairsand anddried driedfor for4g 48 hours. hours,Poach Poachfor for l0 10minutes minutesininwater. water. Sausage Sausagemeatmeat - See SeePORK, PORK,pork Porksausages. sausages. Sausages Sausages with with risotto. risotto. sAucrssEs SAUCISSES AU AU Rrsorro RISOTTO _ - Cook Cook

SAVARIN SAVARIN Season Seasonand and sautd sautéthem thembriskly brisklyininbutter butteror oroil. oil. Drain. Drain.Dilute Dilute juices with the thepan panjuices withwhite whiteor orred redwine, wine,depending dependingon onthe therecipe. recipe. Add Add ttre the prescribed prescribed sauce. sauce. Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments, moments, add add butter butter and and strain strain through through aa cloth. clotho Put Put the the pieces pieces of offish fish into into this this sauce sauceand and heat heatwithout without allowing aJlowingto toboil' boil. Various Various garnishes garnishes may may be be added added to to saut6 sauté of offish, fish, such such as: as: mushrooms, mushrooms, aubergines, aubergines,courgettes, courgettes,artichoke artichokebottoms, bottoms,tomtomatoes, atoes, truffies, truffies, etc. etc. Sautded Sautéed fish fish may may be be browned, browned, or or cooked cooked

chipolata sausages sausagesin in butter butterand and white whitewine. wine. Put Putthem theminin the the chipolata middle middle of ofaa border borderof ofrisotto, risotto, turned turned out out onto onto aa dish. dish. Add Add I 1 tablespoon meat meat jelly jelly to to the the pan pan juices juices and and pour pour over over the the tablespoon sausages. sausages. Sausages with with risotto risotto ià la la pi6montaise. piémontaise. sAUcIssEs SAUCISSES AU AU Sausages Rlsorro, RISOTTO, AÀre LA pfiiraoNTAlsE PIÉMONTAlSE -- Cook Cook the the sausages sausages as as described described above, adding adding to to them, them, towards towards the the end end of of cooking, cooking, white white above, trufles cut in in thin thin slices. slices. Put Put them them in in the the middle middle of of aa risotto risotto truffies cut border and and pour pour the the panjuices pan juices over. over. border In In Italy, Italy, aa small sm ail quantity quantity of of chopped chopped green green cabbage cabbage isis added to to the the risotto risotto during du ring cooking. cooking. added Sausage Sausage roll. fOU. nnraNo FRIAND -- Puffpastry Puff pastry filled filled with with sausage sausage meat. meat. Smoked sausages. sausages. sAUcISsEs SAUCISSES rurnhs FUMÉES -- Prepare Prepare like like County Country Smoked sausages (see (see PORK) PORK) and and smoke smoke in in aa smokehouse smokehouse for for 22 days' days. sausages Poach in in water. water. Poach These sausages sa usages are are used used as as an an ingredientfor ingredient for pottes.They potées. They These are also also served served hot, hot, as as an an hors-deuvre. hors-d' œuvre. are Strasbourg sausag€s. sausages. sAUcIssEs SAUCISSES DE DE srRAsBouRc STRASBOURG -- Alsatian Alsatian Strasbourg speciality, maae made nti like smoked smoked Frankfurt Frankfurt sausages. sausages. They They are are speciality, mainly used used for for garnishing garnishing sauerkraut. sauerkraut. mainly Toulouse Toulouse sensages. sausages. sAUcIssEs SAUCISSES DE DE ToulousE TOULOUSE - Big Big sausages sa usages forcemeat for for which which is is chopped by by hand. hand. Grill Grill or or fry fry as as the forcemeat ordinary long long sausages. sausages. ordinary Vienna sausages. sausages. sAUcIssEs SAUCISSES DE DE VIENNE VIENNE -- Austrian Austrian speciality specia!ity Vienna found in food food shops. shops. They They are are prepared prepared like like found ready-made in Frankfurt sausages sausages and are accompanied by by the the same same gargarnishes. Sausages in white wine. sluctssEs SAUCISSES AU AU YIN VIN BLANc BLANC - Cook Cook long sausages in butter butter in the oven. oyen. Drain Drain them and and arrange arrange or toasted on croûtons cro0tons fried in butter butter or toasted under under the grill, grill, allowing allowing juices with per croûton. Dilute the pan panjuices with white white wine, wine, 2 sausages percro0ton. (see SAUCE) and and butter, sauce (see add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce add butter, and and pour pour over the sausages. over saut6 pan. in aa sauté in butter sausages in long sausages 12 long Brown 12 Or: butter in pan. Or.' Brown wine. Cook Cook white wine. pint, ~cup) lt dl. (i pint, Moisten them with lidl. 3 cup) dry white in the oyen oven with a lid on. Boil in butter. fried in cro0tons fried arrange in pairs on croûtons Drain and arrange butter. Boil yolk, add add aa with egg yolk, two-thirds, bind with down the white wine by two-thirds, (2 oz., g' (2 oz.,t 50 g. meat jelly and 50 iablespoon meatjelly of lemon juice, 1I tablespoon dash oflemonjuice, i well. Blend weil. cup) cup) butter. Blend gut with with aa in sheep's sheep's gut made in sausages made Small sausages Wiirstchen -* Small Würstchen part throat throat part veal pork, 1I part veal and and 1I part parts lean lean pork, of 2 parts forcemeat of2 forcemeat pimento and pepper, pimento and salt, pepper, pork, seasoned with salt, seasoned with of pork, meat of meat are tied tied sausages are The sausages Rhine wine. wine. The with Rhine and mixed mixed with carda mon and cardamon water, then then in salt salt water, for 33 minutes minutes in Poach for in bunches. bunches. Poach together in together grill. cool and and grill. cool vEAU -DE VEAU FRATSE DE DE FRAISE sluclssrs DE Kalbsgekriise. SAUCISSES Wfirste von von Kalbsgekrôse. Würste blanched, washed, blanched, pork gut gut with calf"s mesentery, washed, with calf's in pork Made Made in and in vinegar vinegar and few moments moments in for aa few cooked for chopped and and cooked finely chopped finely pepper with salt, salt, pepper Season with court-bouillon. Season aromatic court-bouillon. in an then in an aromatic then (2f lb.) and with 22 eggs eggs and lb.) with kg, (2i for every every 1I kg. bind, for nutmeg and and bind, and and nutmeg for 10 10 sausages the sa Poach the (+ pint, pint, ~J cup) fresh cream. cream. Poach cup) fresh l+ dl. dl. (i li usages for in butter. toss in butter. and toss to cool, cool, and allow to minutes, allow minutes,

without without allowing allowing to to colour. colour. Prepared with game Saut6 Sauté of of game. game. saurrs SAUTÉS DE DE cIBIERS GIBIERS -- Prepared with game meat meat or or game game birds. birds. Recipes Recipes given given under under PHEASANT' PHEASANT, RABBIT. RAB BIT. Lamb, DE BoucrlrRre Saut6 Sauté of of meat. meal. s,tutFs SAUTÉS DE DE vIANDES VIANDES DE BOUCHERIE -- Lamb, pork pork and and veal veal are are chiefly chiefly prepared prepared in in this this way, way, though though the the method method may may be be used used with with beef beef and and mutton, mut ton, bearing bearing in in mind mind that that the the latter latter should should remain remain aa little !ittle pink pink inside, inside, and and should should not not be be allowed allowed to to boil boil in in the the accompanying accompanying sauce sauce which which isis added added after after the the pieces pieces have have been been fried. fried.

Saut6 Sauté of of poultry. poultry. slurfs SAUTÉS DE DE voLAILLrs VOLAILLES found found under under CHICKEN. CHICKEN.

--

Recipes Recipes will will be be

Saut6 Sauté pan pan (Iarousse) (Larousse)

ratherlow and rather with aathickbase s^q,urorn-Pan SAUTEPAN. SAUTÉ PAN. SAUTOIR -Pan with thick base and low etc. vegetables, meat, vegeta to sau sauti used to sides used té meat, bles, etc. sides

of district of Gironde, aa district the Gironde, of the Commune of SAUTERNES -- Commune SAUTERNES of The communes communes of wines. The white wines. its sweet sweet white for its renowned for Bazas, renowned Bazas, together Fargues together and Fargues Bommes and Sauternes, Bommes Preignac, Sauternes, Barsac, Preignac, Barsac, give to its wines the name right to to give whose right the territory territory whose make up up the make to its wines the name (See BORDEAUX.) recognised. (See has been been recognised. Sauternes has of Sauternes of BORDEAUX.) in cultivated in vine cultivated of wine-producing vine Species ofwine-producing SAUYIGNON-- Species SAUVIGNON the district the In the the Sauternes Sauternes district Bordelais. In the Bordelais. and the Armagnac and the Armagnac the wines. gives some renowned wines. some renowned Sauvignon gives Sauvignon

in yeast mixture, soaked in mixture, soaked with aa yeast made with Cake made SAVARIN SA VARIN -- Cake added. kirsch or with rum syrup flavoured flavoured syrup with rum or kirsch added. flour, 375 375 e. 03 (18 oz., sifted flour, 4j cups) cups) sifted oz., 4i Ingredients.500 Ingredients. 500 g.g. (18 g. (13 tablespoons) o2.,2 25 g.g. (1(l oz., generous 1lji cups) butter, 25 cups) butter, oz., generous oz., 2 tablespoons)

fat or or oil, oil, in fat heat in strong heat To cook cook over over aa strong sAurER -- To SAUTE. SAUTER SAUTÉ. jump' or jump, in itit sauter sauter or whatever isis in pan and making whatever and making the pan shaking the shaking (See CULINARY CULINARY the bottom. bottom. (See to the from sticking sticking to keep itit from to keep to METHODS.) METHODS.) preparations made made to preparations generic term applies to term app!ies This generic SAUTE -- This SAUTÉ pieces of equal size, size, of equal into pieces game or cut up up into or fish, fish, cut meat, fowl, fowl, game from meat, from fat. or other other fat. goodheat in butter, oil or heat in butter, oil over good are cooked cookedover which are which not are not former are the former in that that the from ragoûts ragottts in differ from Sautisdiffer Sautés casewith with thecase asisisthe added, as liquid isisadded, before liquid withflour flour before sprinkled with sprinkled pan juices. to the the panjuices. added to liquid isisadded thickened liquid ragoûts. ragofits. AA thickened (perch, fish(perch, Fillet large large fish DEPOISSONS PolssoNs - - Fillet slurfs DE offish. fish.SAUTÉS Saut6of Sauté the usethe and use the fillets filletsand Trim the etc.).Trim tunny,etc.). cod, salmon, salmon, tunny, brill, cod, brill, sauce. final sauce. forthe thefinal make afumet afumet for tomake scraps to andscraps bones bonesand long. inches)long. pieces 33to cm.(1(l toto 1I inches) to44cm. thefillets filletsininpieces Cut Cut the

Savarinmould mould Savarin (Larousse) (Larousse)

831 831

SAVORY sugar,.25 g. oz.) yeast, eggs, scant I dl. (6 tablespoons, sugar, 25 g. (10oz.) yeast, 88eggs, scant 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant cup) warm milk, l] teaspoons salt. scant 1Icup) warm milk, 11 teaspoons salt. Method. Make a dough in the same way as for baba dough Method. Make a dough in the same way as for baba dough (seeBABA). (see BABA). Put the dough into a buttered ring mould of the type _Put the dough into a buttered ring mould of the type known as a savarin mould, filling it not more than thieiknown as a savarin mould, filling it not more than threequarters full. quarters full. in a warm place until the dough has risen to the top _Leave Leave in a wann place until the dough has risen to the top of the mould. Cook hotoyen ovenfor for45 45minutes. minutes.AJlow Allowtoto of the mould. Cook ininaahot cool completely before turning out. cool completely before turning out. To serve. Soak Soak the thesavarin savarin ininaa liqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavouredsyrup syrup To serve. prepared in the following way: prepared in the following way: Melt over heat 500 g.g.(18 (18 oz., Zf, cups) sugar and j litre Melt over heat 500 oz., 2i cups) sugar and 1 litre (scant pint,2f, cups) water. Add l0 g. (* oz) star an1se, 2 (scant pint, 2i cups) water. Add lOg. (1 oz.) star anise, 2 teaspoons cinnamon, a few grains of coriander and a teaspoons cinnamon, a few grains of coriander and a fragment of mace (the outer covering of the nutmeg). (the outer covering of the nutmeg). fragment ofmace When the syrup is boiling, flavour it with 2 dl. $ pint, scant When the syrup is boiling, fiavour it with 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) rum or kirsch. Put the savarin on a dish and sprinkle it cup) rum or kirsch. Put the savarin on a dish and sprinkle it with the hot syrup. syrup. When When the the cake cake isisweil well soaked, soaked, take tike itit out out with the hot of place it on a clean one and sprinkle over a few the dish, of the dish, place it on a clean one and sprinkle over a few more tablespoons of the rum or kirsch before serving. more tablespoons of the rum or kirsch before serving. Cherry savarin savarin ài la la Chantilly. Chantilly. SAVARIN slv,mrw AUX ,c,ux CERISES csRrsEs ÀA LA re Cherry cHANrrLLy (2ltb.) Stone I kg. (2i (dark) cherries, Morello (dark) put cherries, put CHANTILLY -- Stone 1 kg. lb.) Morello them in in aa deep deep dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with sugar. sugar. Add Add aa dozen doien them crushed cherry cherry stones stones tied tied in in aa muslin muslin bag. bag. crushed juice When thejuice the begins to to run, run, cook cook the the cherries cherries in in thisjuice this juice When begins over low low heat. heat. AJlow Allow to to cool. cool. over Prepare Chantilly (see CREAMS) Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS) flavoured flavoured with with Prepare cherry brandy. brandy. cherry Drain the the cherries cherries and and dry dry them, them, set set them them in in the the middle middle of of aa Drain juice and savarin soaked soaked in in the the cherry cherry juice and fiavoured flavoured with with cherry cherry savarin brandy or or kirsch. kirsch. brandy Cover the the cherries cherries with with the the chantilly chantilly cream piled into cream piled into aa Coyer dome. Decorate Decorate with with cherries. cherries. dome. Savarin à i la la crème crime -- Fill Fill the the inside inside of of aa soaked soaked and and Savarin flavoured savarin savarin with (scant pint, with 1 litre (scant pint,2tcups) very thick thick + litre flavoured 2i cups) very French (see CREAMS) mixed with 50 g, (2 oz.,t ueam (see French pastry pastry cream CREAMS) mixed with 50 g. (2 oz., 1cup) Serve cold cold or hot. In or hot. In the the latter latter case cup) crushed crushed macaroons. macaroons. Serve the with fine fine sugar glazed sugar and and glazed the top top of of the the cream cream is is sprinkled sprinkled with with with aa glazing glazing iron. iron. Savarins be accompanied accompanied by aa Savarins served served hot hot should should normally normally be fruit or strawberry) strawberry) flavoured flavouied redcurrant, or fruit sauce sauce (apricot, (apricot, redcurrant, with with liqueur. liqueur. SavarinMonfurorencySavarin Montmorency - Remove Remove the the stalks stalks and and stones stones from from 5_ffi g. (generous (generous l^lb.) lib.) pale pale red red semi-sweet semi-sweet cherries cherries and poach poach 500 g. them (If, in I them in 1 litre litre O-i pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) light light syrup.-After syrup. After

about4 4minutes minutesboiling, boiling,drain drainthem themand andcook cookfor fora afew few about panwith minutesinina apan with1 Idl.dl.(6(6tablespoons, j cup)kirsch. tablespoons,seant scant1eup) kirsch. minutes Usethem themtotofillfi.llthe themiddle middleofofa asavarin. savarin. Use SAVORY.SARRIETTE sARRrErrE- -Aromatic Aromaticgarden gardenherb herbwith witha ascent scent SAVORY. recallingthat thatofofthyme, thyme,used usedasasseasoning. seasoning. recalling SAVOURIES- -InInBritain Britainthis rhisterm termdescribes describesa arange rangeofoflight light SAVOURlES preparations.Served Servedatatthe theend endofofdinner, dinner,·after afterdessert, dessert,these preparations. these mightbebecalled called'post'post-œuvre' ceuvre'asasdistinct distinctfrom fromhors-d'œuvre, hors-d euvre, might whichare areserved servedatatthe thebeginning beginningofofthe themeal. meal.The Thefollowing which following principalsavouries: arethe theprincipal savouries:cheese cheesestraws, straws,angels angelson are onhorsehorse(oystersand back(oysters andbacon, grilled),cheese bacon,grilled), cheesefritters, fritters,various back various foodstuffs cooked cookedon onskewers, skewers,chou profiteroleswith chouprofiteroles foodstuffs cheese, withcheese, friedCamembert, Camembert,canapés, canap6s, various variousfoodstuffs foodstuffs on fried ontoast, toast. devilled chicken chickenlegs legsand andwings, wings,cheese cheesecondés, condis,fried devilled friedcheese cheese custardshapes, shapes, various variouscroquettes croquettes and andkromeskies, kromestrjres,diabcustard diablotins,rib ribbones bonesof ofbeef beefseasoned seasoned with withmustard mustardand lotins, andcayenne cayenne grilled, paillettes andgrilled, paillettes seasoned seasonedwith withPannesan Parmesanororpaprika, paprika, and pancakes, tartlets cheesepancakes, tartletsand andbarquettes barquetteswith withvariouJ cheese various fillings, fillings, Welsh rarebit rarebit and andother othertoasted toasted cheese cheesedishes, dishes,etc. Welsh etc. SAVOLJRING. DÉGUSTATION ofcusurroN - - The palatalappreciation Thepalatal SAVOURING. appreciation of of .tasting,of the fiavour flavour of ofaasolid solid or orliquid. liquid. The Thesavouring the savouring or or'tasting' of wines and spirits isisaahighly and spirits highly refined refinedart. art. wines preliminary operations The preliminary operationsconsist consist of The ofscrutinising scrutinising the thewine wine judge its so as as to to judge its colour, colour,detect detect any anyimpurities impuritiesand so andassess assess its its limpidity and and brilliance. brilliance. Next, Next, the thesense senseof limpidity smell appreciates ofsmell appreciates the aroma given off aroma given offby the wine. wine.The The taste the by the taste buds buds are aredispersed dispersed throughout the the mouth, mouth, sorne some having having specialised throughout specialised functions. funitions. Sourness isis recognised recognised with with the the tip Sourness tip of of the the tongue; tongue; sweetness sweetness with the the fiat flat of of the the tongue; tongue; under under the with the tongue tongue are are the the buds buds which respond respond especially especially to to bitterness; bitterness; tartness which tartness reacts reacts upon upon the inner inner surface surface of ofthe cheeks. Professional the the cheeks. this Professional tasters tasters put putlhis specialised sensitivity good use. sensitivity to to good specialised use. To savour savour aa wine, wine, for for instance, instance, aa small To small sip sip isis first first taken. taken. This is is held in the held in the front front of of the This the mouth mouth against against the the teeth, teeth, while while the tip tip of the tongue of the tongue isis gently gently moved the moved back back and and forth forth to to appreciate the the sourness sourness of appreciate of the the wine. Next, the wine. Next, the head head isis tilted tilted back aalittle and aa deep deep breath is little and is taken taken which which isis mixed mixed with with the the liquid. At this point the aroma liquid. is savoured aromais (this isis given savoured (this given offby offby ofthe essential oils one of the essential the grape oils contained contained in the the skin skin of grape and ofthe and consequently depends depends on the variety); consequently variety); this aroma aroma is present in is present in unmatured wines. wines. It It becomes becomes more more subtle subtle and and refined refined with with maturity. Later the bouquet develops. This This is is present only in only in old wines and is due to the slow blending of the more volatile more volatile spirits, the ethers, aldehydes and essences essences of of the the wine. Finally,

Wine tasting lasting in in aa Win€ cellar cellar (from aa lithograph) lithograph) (from

832 832

BISCUI1 SAVOY SA VOY BISCUIT quails and good to and hares, partridges, is to eat; eat; hares, is particularly particularly good partlidges, quails in the the co cold fish abounds abounds in Excellent fish woodcock are are plentiful. plentiful. Excellent Id

in in these these early early stages, stages, the the taster taster takes takes note also ofthe of the special properties of the the wine, wine, the the native native tang, tang, the the standard standard flavour Bavour of of properties of the the hybrid hybrid growths, the the taste taste of of cask, musk, sulphur, sulphur, etc. The wine wine is is then then spread over tongue and palate for about two two seconds. seconds. At At this this point point the the taster taster will will recognise recognise the warmth warmth of of a full-bodied wine or or its absence absence in a wine of less generous experience a burning sensation sensation if if generous quality. He will experience sweetness, raw alcohol aJcohol has been been added. added. At At the the same same time, the sweetness, raw smoothness smoothness and texture texture of of the the wine wine are are appreciated, appreciated, that is to the relative proportions of of sugar sugar and tannin. Finally, the say the say tartness and astringency are appreciated by rolling the wine tartness against the the cheeks. cheeks. against spitting out At this point, point, professional tasters usually stop, spitting At them to experience enables them since their their vast vast experience the mouthful, since judge judge a host host of of other subtle subtle qualities in the wine. swallowing the There is something something to be said, however, however, for swallowing There taste too large a provided that one one is not obliged obliged to taste mouthful, provided swallowing slowly, ofsamples at the same session. session. By swallowing samples at number of of taste to mouth closed. cJosed, there are still further with the mouth further shades oftaste with all sorne some flavours which take about of ail be distinguished. First of 'readiness' which arises from 10 seconds seconds to develop, 10 develop, then the 'readiness' fusion of aroma and and finally the perfumed and bouquet, and the fusion aftertaste which indicates indicates that the wine 'ends well'. aftertaste The out The tasting of of oil, butter, tea and other foods is carried out on same way. It should be undertaken in the mornings on in the same after aa an empty stomach, stomach, or at least sorne some considerable considerable time after ter should not smoke before tasting. meal. Above ail, taster all, the tas

perch, torrents: carp, carp, eel, eel, perch, rivers and and torrents: waters of of the lakes and and rivers and the the Two delicious fish, the the lavaret lavaret and delicious fish, trout, chai char and burbot. burbot. Two province. The The crayfish small are small crayfish are unique are almost almost uniq féra, are ue to the province. f'!ra, provide excellent honey, good; The bees honey, that that of ofTarenbut good. bees provide Tarenrenowned. taise in particular particular being renowned. with done with cooking, done Savoyarde cooking, Culinary specialities specialities -- Savoyarde Culioary good but quality, isis good but aa !ittle little heavy. the highest highest quality, ingredients of the dishes. some special dishes. There exist sorne There prepared with pork are with aa and pork are prepared Under the name of civet, hare and are combined combined spices and and aromatics aromatics are rich sauce in in which spices very rich wine and and fresh fresh cream. cream. animal, wine with tbe the blood of the animal, wüh greatly gratin dishes dishes are are greatly region gratin In this this cheese-producing cheese-producing region In potatoes have have aa and potatoes crayfish, cardoons cardoons and of crayfish, relished: gratins of place of ofhonour. honour. sweet dish which which constitutes constitutes aa sweet Thefargon isis aa local potato dish Thefarçon preparations pudding. Rissoles mixtures and and preparations or other other mixtures Rissoles ofmeat of meat or pudding. (U.S. variety variety meats) meats) -- ears, ears, veal and and lamb lamb offal offal (U.S. made with veal made are much much appreciated. appreciated. and liver liver -- are brains and sweetbreads, brains in the art of of ma making the art expert in housewives are are expert Savoyarde housewives Savoyarde king Taninges, dried dried and Taninges, pdtts. The The hams hams of of Celliers Celliers and sausages and and pâtés. sausages repute, as as are are the the are of of high high repute, in the the open open air, air, are and smoked smoked in and fish dishes dishes are: are:. ballerbattergame pâtés pdtts of Among the the fish of Bonneville. Bonneville. Among game perch and Trout àd la Ia meunière; meunibre, the salmon salmon trout; trout; Trout and trout; trout; the fried perch Lake Léman L6man fishermen of of Lake cookedin court-bouillon.The char cooked in court-bouillon. The fishermen char and prepared aa fish cotriades and the chaudrées, chaudries, cotriades to the flsh soup soup similar similar to prepared sea coast. coast. bouillabaisses of of the sea bouillabaisses notable. The The nouilles are notable. nouilles vegetables, cardoons cardoons are the vegetables, Among the (noodles) and ChamAlbertville and and Chamaux oeufs oeufs of of Albertville and nouillelles nouillettes aux (noodles) used for for cooking cooking Nut oil oil isis much much used high reputation. reputation. Nut bery have have aa high béry dressings. and and salad salad dressings. Reblochon; choice: Chevrette; Chevrette; Reblochon; and choice: are numerous numerous and Cheeses Cheeses are Tome de de and Tome imitation of of Gruyère Gruydre -- and an imitation Vacherin Vacherin -- which which isis an years after after making. making. several very hard, hard, sever al years Sixt, which isis eaten eaten very Sixt, which salt or or pancake which with salt which can can be be eaten eaten with The The matefaim matefaim isis aa pancake to taste. taste. sugar sugar according according to (Alpine miel des des Alpes Alpes (Alpine au miel At are made made bonbons bonbons au At Chamonix Chamonix are pastries; biscuits at made at good pastlies; biscuitsare honey and good are made sweets) ; nougat nougatand honey sweets); At Saint-Genis-d'Aoste Saint-Genis-d'Aoste Thonon; lanches. At at Sai Sallanches. Thonon; chocolate chocolate at the made according according to to the are made gateaux de and de Savoie Savoie are Taninges ga/eaux and at at Taninges ancient region. of the the region. ancient tradition tradition of There are are wines. There produces sorne Wines attractive wines. some attractive Wines -- Savoy Savoy produces white; Seyssel, both both white; two Crepy and and Seyssel, contrblies: Crépy two appellations appellations contrôlées: also sparkling Seyssel. Seyssel. also aa sparkling The V.D.Q.S. category. category. The Ali to the the V.D.Q.S. wines belong belong to All the the other other wines de deSavoie, Vinsde appellations Roussette de Savoie, Vins Vins de de Savoie, Savoie, Roussette are: Vins appellations are: Marestel, Savoie vineyardsare: are: Marestel, known vineyards The best best known mousseaux. The Savoie mousseaux. the Rhône; Rhdne; Monthoux, left bank bank of of the on the the left Chautagne on Monthoux, Chautagne of Lake Lake Monterminod, the shores shores of on the Charpignat on Chignin, Charpignat Monterminod, Chignin, Bourget; Arbin, Cruet, Cruet, Montmelian, Arbin, Apremont, Montmélian, Bourget; Abymes, Abymes, Apremont, Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte theIsère. Isdre. right bank bank of of the on the the right Saint-Jean-de-la-Porte on Cider popular drink cantons; ChamChammany of of the thecantons; drink inin many Cider isis aa popular produces an béry, an Savoy also also produces Rumilly brew brew beer. beer.Savoy Annecy and and Rumilly bery, Annecy excellent called lie, lie, special spirit spirit called and aaspecial marc brandy brandy and kirsch, aamarc excellent kirsch, which dessertwine wine The best best known knowndessert to coffee. coffee. The added to which isis often often added of province isisChambéry vermouth. Chambery vermouth. of the the province

Haute (Chiteau de Menthon) de Menthon) Haute Savoie Savoie (Château (French (French Govermnenl Tourist Office) Ofice) Government Tourisl

SA VOY. SAVOIE jagged with with the Savoy, Savoy, jagged The territory territory of of the SAVOY. sAvoIE -- The mountains, of for the the cultivation cultivation of space for restricted space only aa restricted mountains, offers offers only such potatoes, but the but the and potatoes, buckwheat and cereals, buckwheat such crops crops as as cereals, gentler pasture lands provide fine lands which which gentler slopes fine pasture the Alps Alps provide slopes of of the nourish produce. The The milk milk and and and dairy dairy produce. for meat meat and nourish livestock livestock for cream kitchen are ingredients culinary ingredients are culinary used in in the the Savoyarde Savoyardekitchen cream used of grown on which the hillsides hillsides which Vines are are grown on the of the the highest highest order. order. Vines face planted with with cherry, cherry, Fine orchards orchards are are planted midday sun. sun. Fine face the the midday plum, chestnuts Walnut trees treesand and chestnuts trees. Walnut plum, pear pear and apple trees. and cider cider apple prosper. with fragrant fragrant abound with prosper. The in the the woods woods abound The clearings clearings in little forests and and the forests of the earth of and the the cool cool earth little strawberries, strawberries. and meadows growth ofmushrooms in summer. summer. of mushrooms in the growth meadows encourages encourages the Game, grasslands, of the the grasslands, herbs of by the the aromatic aromatic herbs nourished by Game, nourished

SA VOy ARDE (À given toto two different (i LA) Name given twodifferent LA) -- Name SAVOYARDE preparations: preparations: 1.l. Omelelle pancakeomelette with filled with omelettefilled savoyarde; pancake Omeletteàdlala savoyarde; slices shavings of of potato sautéed thinshavings and thin butter and saut6ed inin butter slices of of potato Gruyère. (see EGGS.) EGGS.) Gruydre. (see 2.2. Potatoes grated Gruyère with grated Gruydre mixed with raw,mixed up raw, Potatoes chopped chopped up (See and dish. (See anearthenware earthenware dish. cooked inin an consommd and and cooked and consommé POTATOES, savoyarde.) POTATOES, Potatoes Potatoes àitlalasavoyarde.)

(slsculr DE) SAVOY SPONGE DE) - - See SeeSPONGE sAvoIE(BISCUIT BISCUIT. SAVOIE SAVOY BISCUIT. CAKE, sponge cake. cake. CAKE, Savoy Savoysponge 833 833

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SAWO SA WO MANILAMANILA _. Malaysian Malaysian name given given inJava in Java and in the Indian rndian Archipelago Archipelago to aa fruit fruit we we know know as as Americanmedlar American medlar or sapodilla. Its lts botanical botanical name is Achras Achros sapota.It sapa/o. lt is roughly the the size of of a a lemon lemon with with a greyish greyish skin and <.Ind reddish-yellow, reddish-yellow, almost almost apricot-coloured, apricor-coloured, flesh. Resh. This This fruit fruit has has an an exquisite exquisire flavour only be be enjoyed enjoyed in its ils native native habitat. habitat. flavour but bur can only

SCALLION or SPRING SCALLlON SPRlNG OI{ION. ONJON. crBouLE CIBOULE

closely -- Plant closely related onion, but whereas the the onion, onion, when when young, has related to the onion, leaves of of a pale pale green tending tending to to white white at the bottom bottorn of of the stem, those those of of the the scallion or spring onion onion aredark are dark green all ail the the way way down. Scallions are are found found in in the the market in in spring. spring. They are chopped chopped and eaten raw in green salads.

SAXIFRAGES SAXIFRAGES - Name Name of of aa number Ilumber of of fleshy-leaved Reshy-Ieaved plants,

SCALLOP. SCALLOP. pfroNcre PITONClE

A species species of bivalve bivalve mollusc rnollusc with -- A ribbed, rounded shells, belonging belongîng to to the the Pectinidae Pec/inidae family. It ribbed, rounded is is commonly commonly found in France France on the the Channel and Atlantic Atlantic coasts and and is is variously called olivette, olivette, vanette vanelle or vanneau. vanneau. Scallops common on Scallops are arecornrnon on the rhe American American coasts, varying varying in in size size from frorn very very small smalJ (bay scallops) scallops) to some sorne very very large large varieties. varieties. Found Found rarely rarely on on the the Mediterranean Mediterranean coast. coast.

some which can sorne of ofwhich can be be used used as as vegetables vegetables or or in soup. soup.

SCABIOUS. scABrEUsE SCABIEUSE -- Name Narne of of several different differenr plants, planrs, formerly formerly used used as as depuratives. depuratives. Field Field scabious scabiolls has has succulent succulent leaves leaves which which may be be eaten cooked or in in salad. Scabious Scabious is is prepared prepared like like spinach. spinach,

SCALD. SCALD. fsoulrrlNrEn ÉBOU1LLANTER -- To To plunge pluoge any food food into into boiling water water to to harden harden itit and and facilitate facilitate peeling. peeling. This This process process is also known known as as blanching. blanching.

SCALLOP SAINT-JACQUES. SAINT-JACQUES. coeurI,l.E COQUILLE sArNr-rAceuEs SAINT-JACQUES-

Bivalve Bivalve mollusc, mollusc, commonly commonly known known as the the pilgrim pilgrim shell, sheIl, and called called in in French French Coquille Coquille Saint-Jacques. Sain/-Jacques. Before Before preparing preparing scallops scaJlops wash wash and scrub scrub them them well weil and and

SCALE. SC ALE. EclLrsn F.CAILLER - To To remove remove the the scales scales of of aa fish. fish. This This isis part part ofthe of the process process of of dressing dressing aa fish fish before before cooking. cooking. 834 834

SCALLOP SAINT-JACQUES SCALLOP in egg the scallops scallops in egg and and flesh of of the Dip the the white white flesh - Dip Heap on aa serving serving dish, dish, breadcrumbs. Fry in clarified butter. Heap parsley and with Colbert butter serve with Colbert butter and serve chopped parsley garnish with chopped BUTTER, Compound butters). (see BUTTER, EN sAINr-JAcQUES EN coeuILLES SAINT-JACQUES Scallop brochettes. brochettes. COQUILLES Scallop flesh and and remove the the ftesh and remove Open the the scallops scallops and BRocHETTES -- Open BROCHETTES Pat dry dry in in aa several waters. Pat in severaJ thoroughly in these thoroughly coral. Rinse these towel. (about 1I cm., inch). cm., !I inch). squares (about small squares some bacon bacon into smaU Cut sorne garlic backwards and forwards on on each each and forwards Slide aa clove clove of of garlic Slide and coral coral on on scallops, bacon and Alternate scallops, skewer then discard it. Alternate pepper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with oil oil and pepper. with salt salt and Season with the skewers. Season 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. for 12 occasionally, for and grill, turning occasionaJly, AU GRATIN GRATIN gratin. COQUILLES coeutLLES SAINT-JACQUES sAINT-JAcQUES AU au gratin. Scallops au ScaUops of this this the beginning beginning of at the described at scallops as as described the scallops Cook the -- Cook layer of of shells on in scallop on aa layer set in scallop shells in slices slices and and set entry, cut cut in entry, sauce. with tomato tomato sauce. onion bound bound with with the the chopped chopped onion duxelles, with slices. the scallop scallop sJices. Place the coral coral on top of of the on top Place (see sauce (see Duxelles sauce tomato-flavoured Duxelles with tomato-ftavoured Coat with Coat melted butter. butter. and melted with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and SAUCES). Sprinkle Sprinkle with SAUCES). oven. lightly in the oven. Brown lightly SAINr-JAcQUES gratin àdr la coQUILLES SAINT-JACQUES la dieppoise. dieppoise. COQUILLES au gratin Scallops Scallops au and coral coral cooked scallops scallops and Set the the cooked A LA I-L DIEPPOISE nmppotss -- Set AU AU GRATIN GRATIN À (see BRILL). BRILL). for Brill Brill àd la la dieppoise dieppoise (see in the Finish as as for in the sheJJs. shells. Finish EN coQUILLES SAINT-JACQUES SAINT-JAcQUES EN mayonnaise. COQUILLES ScalJops Scallops in in mayonnaise. with oil oil and and seasoned with cooked scaIJops, scallops, seasoned MA YONNAISE -- Set MAyoNNAIsE Set the the cooked parsley, in in the the shells, shells, with chopped chopped parsley, vinegar vinegar and and sprinkled sprinkled with lettuce. Coat Coat with with seasoned lettuce. little shredded shredded and and seasoned Jined lined with with aa littJe and fillets of of anchovies anchovies and the coral, coral, fillets mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Garnish Garnish with with the quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled lettuce hearts, hearts, quartered capers. with lettuce Surround with capers. Surround eggs and stoned stoned olives. olives. eggs and MoRNAY -sAINr-JAcQUES MORNAY Scallops Mornay. COQUILLES coeuILLES SAINT-JACQUES Scallops Mornay. potato border of of Duchesse Duchesse potato Edge with aa border shells with Edge the the scallop scallop shells piped through (see POTATOES) forcing bag. bag. Line Line through aa forcing mixture POTATOES) piped mixture (see (see spoonful of of Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see the shells with with aa spoonful the bottoms bottoms of of the the shells SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat with with Mornay Mornay Add the coral. coral. Coat scallop ftesh flesh and and the Add slices slices of of scallop grated cheese melted butter butter and and sauce. cheese and and melted with grated sauce. Sprinkle Sprinkle with brown brown in in the the oven. oven. FRITES Fried sAINr-JAcQUES FRITES la tartare. tartare. COQUILLES coeuILLES SAINT-JACQUES Fried scaUops scallops ài la coLBERr COLBERT

Sawo manila Sawo

put them in the oven low heat, heat, the rounded part oven at aa very low downwards. They will open compJeteJy. completely. Take out the ftesh is aa tongue, which which is coral tongue, flesh and and the little coral great delicacy. delicacy. Do not discard discard the shells. Scrub them and keep scallop shell dishes. for future use for various scallop Poach the ftesh made with with flesh and the coral in aa court-bouillon made white wine, weil with onion, thyme flavoured with well seasoned seasoned and and ftavoured and to be now ready ready to and bay leaf. Drain the scallops. They are now treated according to the recipe. treated In U.S.A., the scaIJops in sold in scallops have no coral and are rarely sold All but the hinge is discarded. the shells. Ali -JACQUES FRITES Fried scallops. COQUILLES Cook the the FRITEs -- Cook sAINT-JACeuEs coeuILLES SAINT scallops in court-bouillon, drain for Marinate them them for drain and slice. Marinate 30 parsley. Dip Dip them them minutes in oil, lemonjuice lemon juice and chopped parsley. 30 minutes in light batter Drain. deep fat. fat. Drain. fry in in smoking-hot smoking-hot deep in aa light and fry batter and Garnish with fried quarters oflemon. of lemon. and quarters fried parsley and Scallops fried in batter. sAINr-JAcQUES FRIror DE DE COQUILLES coeuILLEs SAINT-JACQUES batter. FRITOT -- Prepare (see with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see Serve with Prepare like like Fried scallops. Serve SAUCE). SAUCE). Fried FRITES coeuILLEs SAINT-JACQUES sAINr-JAcQUES FRITES Fried scallops scallops Colbert. Colbert. COQUILLES

Scallops (Prunier. Phal. Phot. Nicolas) Nicolas) Scallops Saint-Jacques Saint-Jacques (Prunier. Top how to detach them them Top righl: right: how to detach Bal/am righl: scallops on skewers Bottom right : scallops on skewers

835 835

SCAMPI SCAMPI groupers U.S.A. the sea bass In U.S.A. Dass of the eastern eastern coast and and the the groupers southern shores are very very similar to the of the southem loup de de the French loup mer.

Sea Sea bream

Scallops Scallops Saint-Jacques Saint-Jacques (lzrousse) (Larousse)

SEA BREAM. BREAM. SEA

DAURADE -- Very DAURADE Very delicately delicately flavoured flavoured fisb fish Mediterranean end of found in the Mediterranean of the Gulf Gulf of Gascony Gascony and and very occasionally in the English Channel. very Channel. The back is bluish white or dark blue, blue, the flanks silveryyellow, the belly white. Tbe yellow, The ancients called called it golden eyebrow because of of the brilliant brilliant golden golden crescent between its eyes. because eyes. The French name name for this this fish is daurade. French Sea bream bream is is best best grilled àd la Sea la meunière meunibre or boiled and served served melted butter. butter. with melted

AÀ r.c LA rA.RraRE TARTARE -- Prepare Prepare the the flesh flesb of of the the scallops scallops as for Fried Fried scallops Serve with with Tartare Tartare sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). scallops Colbert. Colbert. Serve Scallops can be be served served with with various various sauces, sauces, ScalJops fried fried in in this this way way can such such as as B4arnaise, Béarnaise, Hongroise, Hongroise, Portugaise, Portugaise, etc. (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

SCAMPI -- See See DUBLIN DUBLIN BAY BAY PRAWNS. PRA WNS. SCAMPI SCARUS, PARROT-FISH. PARROT-FISH. scenn SCARE -- Mediterranean Mediterranean fish fish with SCARUS, fine fine flesh flesh which which was was particularly particularly esteemed esteemed by by the the Romans. Romans. It called parrot-fish parrot-fish because because of of its its bright bright colours. colours. Prepared Prepared in isis called court-bouillon, dà la la meuniire meunière or or fried. fried. court-bouillon,

SEA COW, COW, MANATEE. L.lM.c.NrrN LAMANTIN - The SEA flesh of of this - The flesh herbivorous sea sea mammal, which tastes something like pork, herbivorous esteemed in the West Indies, is much esteemed Indies. as as is the 'bacon' made made from it.

SCHALETH, JEWISH. JEWISH. SCHALETH,

SCHALETH A À r-.q. LA rurvs JUIVE -- Prepare Prepare ScHALETH Noodlepaste paste (see (see NOODLES) NOODLES) as as long long in in advance ad vance as as possible, possible, Noodle that itit isis well'rested' weil 'rested' before before using. using. so that so Roll out out thinly, thinly, and and line li ne alarge a large metal, metal, well-buttered welJ-buttered basin. basin. Roll to three-quarters three-quarters of of its its capacity capacity with with sweet sweet apple apple purde purée FilJ to Fill prepared prepared in in this this way: way: Boil down down 800 800 g. g. (U (1 t lb.,4|cups) lb., 4~ cups) apple apple jam. jam. Add Add 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 Boil oz., 11cup) cup) raisins, raisins, cleaned cleaned and and seeded, seeded, and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., lt 11oz., cups)currants currants and and sultanas, sultanas, picked picked over, over, washed, washed, and and soaked soaked cups) in warm warm water. water. Add Add +1- teaspoon teaspoon each each of of chopped chopped orange orange and and in lemon peel, peel, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz.,1cup) oz., 1- cup) sugar sugar and and aa little Iittle grated grated lemon and 33 yolks. yolks. Add Add I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 nutmeg. Bind Bind with with 55 whole whole eggs eggs and nutmeg. tablespoons, scant seant *cup) 1- cup) Malaga Malaga and and mix mix well. weil. tablespoons, Coyer the the basin basin with with aa layer layer of of pastry. pastry. Make Make aa hole hole in in the the Cover middle to to allow allow steam steam to to escape. escape. Cook Cook in in aa moderately moderately hot hot middle

SEA EEL EEL -- See See EEL. EEL. SEA SEAFOODS. rnulrs FRUITS DE DE MER MER - Name applied to crustaceans SEAFOODS. crustaceans of various kinds, which are are served served together, raw and shellfish shellfish of and or cooked. It is is used, used, in particular, of of a a dish of of raw shellfish or shellfish an hors-d' hors-d'Guvre,such œuvre, sucb as as oysters. oysters. served as as an of various fish, Seafoods, which sometimes sometÎmes include slices Seafoods, slices of fish, can be be cooked cooked in many many different different ways. ways. They They can be made made into into can can be ragoûts, flans flans (tarts), (tarts), risottos, stffings, stuffings, etc. etc. ragottts, Seafood risotto. risotto. Rlsorro RISOTTO AUx AUX FRUrrs FRUITS DE DE MER MER - Cook litres Seafood - Cook 22 litres (quarts) mussels mussels and and I1 litre litre (quart) cockles or or small clams (quarts) small clams separately in white white wine, wine, seasoned seasoned with with spices spices and and herbs. herbs. separately Drain the the shellfish shellfish and and remove remove from from their their shells. shells. Put Put them them in in aa Drain g. (7 oz., oz., generous generous I1 cup) cup) shelled shelled shrimps shrimps casserole with with 200 200 g. casserole shelled scallops, scallops, previously previously cooked cooked in in white white wine. wine. Add Add and 44 shelled and dl. (i (t pint, pint, scant seant 22 cups) cups) fish fish Veloutb Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) 44 dl. SAUCE) which has has been been prepared prepared separately separately by by using using the the combined combined which

oyen for for 50 50 minutes minutes to to I1 hour. hour. Allow Allow to to stand stand for for aa few few oven minutes before before turning turning out. out. minutes SCHNITZEL. scnNrrzsl SCHNITZEL - Escalope (thin cutlet) cutlet) of of veal veal SCHNITZEL. - Escalope (thin breadcrumbs and and cooked cooked in in butter butter or or oil, oil, coated with withegg eggand and breadcrumbs coated known by by this this name name in in Germany Germany and and Austria. Austria. (See (See VEAL.) VEAL.) isisknown SCOL YMUS. scoryup SCOLYME - Plant of the the Compositae Compositae family family SCOLYMUS. - Plant of

ofFrance. France. The The Spanish Spanisb scolymus scolymus has has found ininthe thesouth-west south-west of found an edible edible root root which which isis eaten eaten in in the the same same way way as as salsify. salsify. an SCOTER-DUCK. MAcREUSE MACREUSE - Genus of duck duck among among which which SCOTER-DUCK. - Genus of are Polar Polar species species which which migrate migrate to to both both the the Old Old and and New New are Their oily oily flesh flesh isis strong strong in in flavour flavour but but edible edible ifif the the World. Their World.

birds are areyoung youngand and properly properly cooked. cooked. birds

SCUM. fcuur ÉCUME - Froth which forms forms on on the the surface surface of of aa SCUM. - Froth which or the the skin skin which which forms forms on on top top of of aa protein protein boiling liquid, liquid, or boiling liquid such such as as soup, soup, through through the the coagulation coagulation of of soluble soluble liquid cold. proteinswhen wben the theliquid liquid isis cold. proteins

SEA ANEMONES. ANEMONES. lNfrvroNEs ANÉMONES DE DE MER MER - Name commonly SEA commonly - Name giventotoActinia Actiniaor orstarfish, stadish, edible edible molluscs molluscs which which abound abound on on given thecoasts coasts of ofFrance, France, particularly particularly on on the the Mediterranean Mediterranean side. side. the SEA BASS. BASS. Loup LOUP DE DE MER MER - Name given in in some sorne districts districts to to SEA - Name eiven

thesea seaperch. perch. the

Dish of ofseafoods seafoods (Lar (Larousse) Dish ousse)

836 836

SEMOLINA SEMOLINA cooking cooking liquors liquors and and aa white white roux roux of of butter butter and and flour. fiour. This This sauce sauce isis cooked cooked for for 25 25 minutes minutes and and should should be be very very smooth. smooth. Add Add 55 tablespoons tablespoons (6 (6 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and simmer simmer for for aa few Add a0 40 e. g. Oi (1 oz., oz., 33 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter and and few minutes. minutes. Add

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strain. strain. The The ragoitt,with ragoût, with the the velouti velouté added added to to it, it, should should be be kept kept hot hot without without boiling. boiling. Prepare Prepare the the risotto. risotto. Sautd Sauté a a chopped chopped onion on ion in in butter butter without without letting letting itit brown. brown. Mix Mix in in 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,lf, oz., l± cup) cup) rice, rice, stirring stirring well weil so so that that all ail the the grains grains are are well weil coated coated with with butter. butter. twice the Add Add meat meat stock stocktwice the volume volume of of the the rice rice aa little little at at aa time, time, to absorb absorb the the liquid liquid before before pouring pouring on on any any allowing the the rice rice to allowing more. more. Cover, Coyer, and and cook cook for for l5 15 to to 20 20 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring from from time time to to time. time. Add Add 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., f, cup) butter butter and and 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.,1"up) oz., cup) grated grated cheese. cheese. Arrange Arrange the the rice rice in a border border on on aa large large dish. Place Place in in the the centre the the seafood seafood ragoht ragoût and and arrange arrange the the coral coral ofthe of the scallops scallops centre on top. top. on

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Inrousse) Sea Sea urchins urchins (Merveilles (Merveilles des des mers mers -- Charlot Char/ol L1. Phot. Phol. Larousse)

SEA SEA HOG HOG - See See PORPOISE. PORPOISE.

SEAKALE. cHou CHOU MARIN MARIN -- This This plant, plant, which which is appreciated appreciated in in SEAKALE. England, is is little known known in in France, France, although although it it was was ininEngland, troduced into into cultivation cultivation a a long long time time ago: ago: M. M. Massey Massey troduced at Versailles cultivated cultivated it it in the royal vegetable vegetable garden garden at Versailles in in

but but uncooked. uncooked. They They are are opened, opened, washed washed (in (in sea sea possible) possible) and and buttered buttered sippets sippets of of bread bread are are dipped dipped

water water if if

into into the the yellow clinging to substance clinging yellow substance to the the walls walls of of the the shell. shell. sea urchin It said that It is is said that sea urchin has has great great restorative restorative powers. powers. Its Its cooked, is taste, is not not unlike unlike crayfish. crayfish. taste, when wh en cooked, punEr well dozen Open 3 D'ouRSINs pur6e. PURÉE D'OURSINS -- Open 3 dozen weil Sea urchin Sea urchio purée. remove the and remove sea urchins urchins and washed washed sea the part part resembling resembling hard hard roe. roe. quantity of of an equal equal quantity sieve. Add substance through Rub this Rub this substance through aa sieve. Add an for 55 minutes, (see SAUCE). Simmer for SAUCE). Simmer sauce (see thick Btchamel thick Béchamel sauce minutes, (l! oz., g. (I 40 g. o2.,33 tablespoons) in 40 blend in then then blend tablespoons) butter. butter. puffpastry or puff filling tartlets tartlets or pur6e can for filling used for can be be used This purée This pastry volvollightly ofbread, on pieces spread on also be be spread It can can also cases. It au-vent cases. au-vent pieces of bread, lightly put in very in aa very grated cheese, and put cheese, and with grated in butter, sprinkled with fried in butter, sprinkled fried the top. toP. to brown brown the hot oyen oven to hot

820. 1820. Seakale takes the form of of a strong root out of of which which grow grow leaf rosettes rosettes consisting of of long thick thick stalks terminating terminating in in fringed rounded crests, pale in colour. colour. of western of most of The vegetable The vegetable grows wild on the coasts of western cooked. Europe. The leafstalks leaf stalks have a nutty flavour fiavour when cooked. cardoons. eaten in the same way as asparagus or cardoons. Seakale is eaten in Trim and wash the seakale and tie 6 to 8 stalks at a time in Drain. boiling salted water. Drain. bundles. Cook in boiling bundles. 1

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pHoeuE - Marine skin and the the Marine mammal hunted for its skin SEAL. PHOQUESEAL. the flesh is eaten by the its fat. fat. Seal's fiesh is extracted extracted from ils oil which is its liver, particularly fond fond of of its are particularly is said, said, are who, itit is Eskimos who, into sausages. and blood, which they make into lungs, heart and

of of seaweed of rucus- Species ofseaweed SEAWRACK,ROCK-WEEK. SEA WRACK, ROCK-WEEK. Fucus-Species tyPe. filament type. or filament membranous or the membranous the Islands, Faroe Islands, lceland, the the Faroe inhabitants of of Iceland, that the the inhabitants It isis said said that It it for for use it North America America use and North Denmark and Norway, Denmark Scotland, Norway, Scotland, young stems the stems of of the the young In Scotland, Scotland, the of scarcity. scarcity. In food in in times times of food as aa salad. salad. eaten as are sometimes sometimes eaten sea-lettuce are or sea-Iettuce tangle or tangle by-products in the the by-products industry in is aa fiourishing flourishing industry there is In Japan Japan there In particular. Amanori Amanori in particular. general and wrack in sea wrack and sea in general seaweed in of seaweed of properties, gelatinous properties, prized for greatly prized for their their gelatinous are greatly kombu are and kombu and food. as actual actual food. rather than than as condiments rather used as as condiments used

psRcm DE given to to MER -- Name sometimes given DE MER PERCH. PERCHE SEA SEA PERCH. bass.

worm. like aa wonn. rather like A creature creature rather -- A in found in the tripang tipang found among them them the are edible, edible, among Some breeds are Some breeds prized among the among the highly prized said to to be be highly which isis said waters, which Chinese Chinese waters, East. Far East. gastronomes of the Far of the gastronomes

HoLoTHURIB SEA SBA SLUG. SLUG. HOLOTHURIE

the both the word de defines This word e,ssanoNNEMENr -- This SEASONING. fines both SEASONING. ASSAISONNEMENT

(salt, substances (salt, special substances with one one orthe of the special a dish with act act ofseasoning of seasoning adish itself. the substance substance itself. and the for for instance) instance) and Seasonthings. Seasonsame things. not the the same are not flavouring are and fiavouring Seasorung Seasoning and amount small amount or small of adding adding aalatge preparation consists consists of ing large or ing aa preparation the its taste taste by by the enhancing its dish means means enhancing it: fiavouring to it: flavouring aa dish of of salt salt to spices. and spices. aromatics and condiments, aromatics of condiments, addition of addition

of wood, wood, made of usually made bowl, usually or small small bowl, Saucer or SEBILLB -- Saucer SÉBILLE

eggs. for beating beating eggs. cookery for in French French cookery used in used ingredients chopped ingredients parsley and other chopped and other kitchens, parsley In large large kitchens, In sbbilles in wood wooden are assembled assembled in particular dish dish are for aa particular set out out for set en sébilles capacities. various capacities. of various of minSparkling minsElrz -- Sparkling DE SELTZ EAU DE sElrz, EAU SELTZER-WATER. SELTZ, SELTZER-WATER. in bottles. (Duchy of sold in bottles. Nassau), sold of Nassau), Selters (Duchy from Selters water from eral water erai with charged with water charged effervescent water seltzer-water isis effervescent Artificial seltzer-water Artificial in siphons. siphons. pressure, and and sold sold in gas under under pressure, carbonic gas carbonic

marine the marine name of of the Popular name ounsn -- Popular URCHIN. OURSIN SEA SEA URCHIN. of species of several species with spines, spines, several species, with the Echinus Echinus species, of the animais animals of are edible. edible. which are which sea urchin. urchin. the black black sea green sea and the sea urchin urchin and The best best are are the the green The sea regions -- sea in various various regions names in various names called by by various The latter, latter, called The rocks. tide on on rocks. low tide found at at low egg, etc. etc. -- isisfound sea egg, hedgehog, hedgehog, sea urchin. ItIt isis preparing the the sea sea urchin. for preparing recipes for few recipes There are are few There salted Cook itit inin salted an egg. egg. Cook like an boiled, like lightly boiled, chiefly eaten, eaten, lightly chiefiy the scissors on on the with scissors cutting with by cutting open by water, drain, drain, open boiling boiling water, drain situated),drain (where the mouth isissituated), urchin's mouth the sea sea urchin's side (where concave concave side part, then dip thendip the excremental excremental part, out the throwing completely, th itit completely, rowing out intothe the shell. shell. morsels ofbread of bread into buttered morsels buttered conare conurchins are sea urchins where sea Marseilles, where of Marseilles, In the the region regionof In described, shell,as asdescribed, ofthe eaten out outof areeaten delicacy, they they are sidered the shell, sideredaadelicacy,

white red and and white Certain red MousrILLE -- Certain SEMI-SPARKLING. MOUSTILLE SEMI-SPARKLING. traces of of quite sparkling, have traces sparkling, have not quite are not which are wines, which wines,

semi-sparkling' to be besemi-sparkling. are said said to Theseare effervescence. These effervescence. mostly cereals, mostly with cereals, Food made made with ssuourn - - Food SEMOLINA. SEMOULE SEMOUNA. milling. granules by coarse milling. by coarse to granules reduced to wheat, reduced wheat, to make make used to particularly wheat wheat semolina, semolina, isis used Semolina, particularly Semolina, dishes. puddings and various other other dishes. and various groats,soups, soups, puddings groats, DESEMOULE sEMouLE - (Russian cookery). KACHE DE cookery). KACHE kasha(Russian Semolina kasha Semolina beaten and one one beaten semolina and coarse semolina (9oz., cups) coarse 250 g.g.(9 oz.,lj Mix 250 Mix J cups)

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SEPARATOR SEPARATOR SEPT-@IL- - Name (Seven-eye) sometimes Name(Seven-eye) SEPT-ŒIL giventotothe sometimesgiven the lamprey.The Thespawn spawnof ofthis thisfish fishare lamprey. arealso alsocalled calledsept-œil. sept-eil. SERDEAUororSERS-D'EAU SERS-D'EAU- - Official SERDEAU Officialofofthe thecourt courtofofthe the Kingof ofFrance Francewho whoreceived receivedthe thedishes King dishescleared clearedfrom fromthe thetable table bythe themaître maitred'hôtel. d hdtel.Also placetotowhich Alsothe theplace by whichthese theseleft-overs left-overs were taken takenand andfrom fromwhich whichthey were theywere werere-sold. re-sold. Formerly Formerly atatthe the court of ofFrance France ititwas wasthe thecustom customtotokeep court keepfood foodalways always ready ready serve totothose thosewhose whosedut totoserve y or duty orbusiness business brought brought them them inin touchwith withthe theking. king. touch To this this end end dishes dishes cleared cleared from To from the the royal royal table table were were brought totoaaspecial special room roomor brought orserre, serre,which whichcame cametotobe becaUed called theserre serre d'hôte, d h6te,and, and, by bycorruption, corruption,the the the serdeau i.e. to be kept serdeaui.e.tobe kept hot. AA'serre'is hothouse. hot. 'serre' is aahothouse. Later, the the custom custom of of regaling regaling the Later, the king's king's visitors visitorsfell fell into into disuseand and the theleft-overs, left-overs, brought disuse brought immediately immediately to to the theserdeau serdeau as before, before, were were sold sold by byauction. auction. This as This custom custom still still existed existed at at the time time of of Louis Louis XIV XIV and and many the many Versailles Versailles households households were were provisioned in cheaply provisioned in this thisway. way. cheaply News-gatherers of of the the end News-gatherers end of of the theeighteenth eighteenthcentury century were were greatly amused amused by by an greatly an adventure adventure which which happened happened at Versailles at Versailles gentleman whose to an an old old gentleman whose state state of to of fortune fortune obliged obliged him him to to make economies, economies, and and who who was make was in in the the habit habit ofmaking of making up his up his dinner from from left-overs provided for left-overs provided dinner for him him by by the the serdeau serdeau servants. servants. He had had been been called called unexpectedly unexpectedly into He into aa salon salon of palace, of the the palace, when itit was was discovered discovered that when that aa very very valuable valuable snuff-box snuff-box had had suddenly disappeared disappeared without suddenly without anybody anybody having having been been seen seen to to leave the the room. room. To To allay leave allay suspicion suspicion everybody present turned everybody present turned pockets inside their pockets inside out, their out, and, and, after after aa certain certain hesitation, hesitation, the the economy-minded courtier economy-minded courtier followed followed suit. suit. One One may may imagine imagine oflaughter greeted the the burst of laughter that greeted piece of the appearance appearance of ofaa piece of chicken that that had had been chicken been buried in pocket, and in his his pocket, and which which had had been intended to constitute constitute the poor gentleman's gentleman's dinner. dinner. The story story appeared appeared in aU The all the papers after after having acquired acquired aa embellishments. of em nnumber um ber of beUishments.

pudding with Semolina pudding (C/aire) with stewed stewed fruit fruit (Claire) Semolina

egg. Spread Spread this this mixture mixture over over aa baking baking tin tin and and dry dry itit in in the the egg. oven at low heat. at low heat. oyen poach for Sieve and and poach for 20 20 minutes minutes in in consommé. consommd. Drain. Drain. Sieve This kasha kasha is is used used with with coulibiac coulibiac and and various various hors-d'œuvre hors-d euvre This in Russian Russian cookery. cookery. in pouDrNG DE sEMouLE Shower 250 g. (9 Semolina pudding. pudding. POUDING DE SEMOULE -- Shower 250 g. (9 Semolina oz.,î lj cups) cups) semolina semolina into into 1I litre (scant quart, litre (scant quart, generous generous oz., quart) boiling milk milk sweetened sweetened and and flavoured flavoured with with vaniJla. vanilla. quart) boiling (l! oz., g. (1 Add 40 40 g. o2,33 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter and pinch of and aa pinch of salt. salt. Add Mix weil. well. Cook Cook in in the the oyen oven for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Mix Thicken, away away from from the the heat, heat, with with 44 beaten eggs. eggs. Thicken, pouDrNG DE English semolina semolina pudding. pudding. POUDING DE SEMOULE sEMouLE À A English L'ANGLATsE -- Add Add to to semolina semolina prepared prepared as previous as in in the the previous L'ANGLAISE recipe 4 yolks and 4 egg (6 tablespoons, egg yolks and'l1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant tj cup) cup) fresh recipe cream for for each (scant quart, each litre litre (scant quart, generous generous quart) quart) of of the cream mixture. mixture. Put pie dish dish and and cook cook in in the oven in in aa bainPut in in a a buttered buttered pie the oyen marie. marie. French See PUDDING. PUDDING. French semolina semolina pudding pudding - See Semolina subrics. sunnrcs sEMouLn -- Cook (tf, oz., 125 g. Semolina subrics. SUBRICS DE DE SEMOULE Cook 125 g. (4t (scant pint, pint, 2i Zf,cups) of consommé. coisorirmd. in3 "rp) cup) semolina semolina in in j litre litre (scant cups) of Add Add 40 40 g. g. (l! o2.,3 oz., 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Cover Coyer and cook for for 25 25 minutes minutes in in the the oven. oyen. Bind Bind with with 22 whole who le eggs eggs and one extra yolk, (2 g. yolk, and and 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., + cup) cup) grated grated cheese. cheese. Spread Spread this rnixture mixture on on aa buttered buttered baking baking tin. tin. Butter Butter the the surface. surface. Allow AJlow to cool. cool. Cut Cut out out subrics subrics with with aa round round pastry pastry cutter cutter about about 5 cm. (2 Fry on on both both sides sides in in clarified clarified butter. butter. (2 inches) inches) in in diameter. diameter. Fry Set Set in in aa crown crown and and sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter. butter. To To simplify simplify the the operation operation the the subrics subrics may may be be made made in in squares squares or or rectangles. rectangles. In In the the same same way way subrics subrics may may be be made made of of maize maize (polenta), (polenta), rice, and all ail kinds kinds of of cereals cereals ind and their their rice, vermicelli, vermicelli, noodles noodles and derivatives. derivatives. Semolina SUBRICS DE DE sEMouLE SEMOULE (nNrnnrvmm) (ENTREMETS) Semolina subrics subrics (sweet). (sweet). suBRrcs -- Sprinkle Sprinkle 125 125 g. g. g| (4t oz., oz., f,i cup) cup) semolina semolina into into I litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2icups) cups) milk milk previously previously boiled boiled with, with 100 100 g.(4 g. (4 or.,i oz., t .up) cup) sugar, a pod vanilla and salt. sugar, half halfa pod of ofvanilla and aa pinch pinch of ofsalt. Add Add 40 40 g.g. (lt (1 o2.,3 oz., 3tablespoons) ta blespoons) butter butter and and mix mix well. weil. Cook Cook in in the the oven, oyen, covered, covered, for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Remove Remove from from the the heat heat and and bind bind with with 44egg egg yolks. yolks. Turn Turn the the mixture mixture onto onto aa baking baking tin tin in in aa layer layer 22 cm. cm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick. Butter Butterthe thesurface surface and and allow allow to to cool. cool. Cut Cutout outininrings ringswith withaapastry pastrycutter cutterand and fry fryon onboth bothsides sidesin in very hot butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aa crown. crown. Garnish Garnish the the middle middle of of very hot each eachsubric subricwith with apricot apricot or orredcurrant redcurrantjelly. jelly.

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SERRE-- See CHEESE. SERRÉ SERVICE -- The word service SERVICE service used to mean aa group of of dishes composing part of of a meal. There were at least three services. services. After each each the table table was was cleared cleared with with the exception of the dormants or table centres and dormants and the bouts de de table, table, on on which were arranged arranged the dishes for the next course. The second second sense sense of the the word word describes describes the the manner of presenting guests. Ifthe presenting the dishes dishes to the guests. If the dishes dishes are are put on the table, arranged and set symmetrically, this is table, each each artistically artistically arranged symmetrically, this service dà lafrangaise. lafrançaise. Then there is the service dà la russe,now russe, now widely adopted, in which the dishes dishes are passed in a a preare passed determined order to each each guest, guest, the meat being cut cut up in advance. of these these two two kinds kinds of of service are given advance. Some Sorne details details of below. below. Table Table service service can also be be taken to mean mean the ensemble of objects objects which which are are used used at at table: ta ble: linen, linen, plates, plates, glass glass and and silver. sil ver. In In particular particular the the utensils utensils required required to to serve serve aa special special part part ofthe of the meal meal are are called called services services -- e.g. e.g. coffee coffee service, service, tea tea service, service, fruit fruit service, service, etc. etc. In In French French the the personnel personnel of of the the restaurant restaurant who who are are reresponsible are also also called called the the service. service. sponsible for for serving serving meals meals are Service ià la la frangaise française and and ià la la russe russe -- The The great great service service hà la la Service as ititwas waspractised practised during during the the First First Empire Empire and and even even française, as frangaise, more more frequently frequently during during the the Second, Second, was was only only the the concontinuation, tinuation, in in an an already already diminished diminished form, form, of ofthe the ceremonial ceremonial of of the the table table observed observed under under Louis Louis XIV, XIV, which which was was called called /e le grand grandcouvert. couvert. AA meal meal served served dà lala frangaise française was was divided divided in in three three quite quite distinct distinct parts, parts, which which were were the the services. services. The The first first service service consisted ofthe the series series of ofdishes dishes inscribed inscribed on on the the menu menu from from consisted of soup soup to to roast, roast, including including the the hors-deuvre. hors-d'œuvre. The The second second comcom-

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SEPARATOR. SEPARATOR. fcnfrvmusr ÉcRÉMEuSE -- Implement Implement used used in in dairies dairies for for

separating separatingthe thecream creamfrom fromthe themilk. milk.

838 838

SERVIETTE SERVIETTE (A (À LA) LA) one served by groups groups of of l0 10 or or 12 12 people, people, each each group group being being served by one the of the advance waiter, waiter, who who is is instructed instructed in in ad vance by by the the mistress rnistress of ceremonial and last' house house which which guests guests to to serve serve first first and last. At At aa ceremonial at first, beginning all the serve ail meal it it is is customary customary to to serve the ladies ladies first, beginning at the offered on on the Dishes are are offered the the right right of of the master master of of the the house. house. Dishes

prised prised everything everything on on the the menu menu following following the the roast roast - cold second roasts and and vegetables, vegetables, continuing continuing to to the the last last item, item, the the second roasts sweet dishes. d ishes. The The third third service, service, completely completely independent independent of of the the sweet came from from the the pastrycook, pastrycook, which which included included dekitchen, came kitchen, corated pieces, pieces, various various pastries, pas tries, petitsfours, petits fours, sweets, sweets, ices ices and corated fruit, all ail of of which which constituted constituted the the dessert. dessert. fruit, The order order of of the the menu menu was was regulated by by the the number of of The entrées, that isis to to say say the the dishes dishes of of the the second service service had to to be enttes,that number to to those those of of the the first first service and never never equivalent in in number equivalent adding up up to to an an odd odd number. number. But But there there were some sorne deviations adding the rule. rule. from the from Thus in aa menu menu in in which which there there were 88 entries, entrées, there there had to Thus be 22 soups, soups, 22large'removes?, large 'removes', 2 roasts, 2 cold pieces for the be second roast, 2 side dishes and 2 vegetables (or (or 1I vegetable vegetable second mixed salad). salad). and aa mixed Certain menus menus left by Car€me Carême (authentic (authentic menus for meals Certain Talleyrand) at the the table table of the the Prince Prince Talleyrand) served principally principally at served mention 32 and sometimes sometimes 48 entrees. entrées. mention the first service service were were arranged arranged on the table Ali the the dishes dishes for for the All set on room, set before the entry of the guests into the dining room, before covered with (hot plates) to hot and and covered réchauds (hot to keep keep them them hot rbchauds cloche lids. Iids. cloche magnificence, this satisfaction in the display of riches, This magnificence, had its reverse reverse side side and presented various difficulties. It is easy if to to these tables if were the the tables how overloaded were to understand how of great table centres, baskets of covered dishes are are added the great covered etc. But f1.owers, candelabras candelabras full of of candies, candles, set places, glass, etc. flowers, inevitably, the greatest inconvenience inconvenience of this service, almost almost inevitably, was that in spite of the réchauds dishes of the the series, the last last dishes richauds the of however great speed of and the the speed great the dexterity the carving and dexterity of the their serving, somewhat chilled and no longer at their serving, had become somewhat guests cou not Id not could evident that the guests Moreover, it is equally evident best. Moreover, of try such aa large number of dishes choice of dishes and must make aa choice one or two. The Dubois popularized by Urbain Dubois by Urbain russe, popularized The service service àit la la russe, round and representative and less representative is less less rich, rich, Iess 1860, is round about about 1860, in expressive of meeting meeting in has the the advantage advantage of luxury, but but itit has expressive of luxury, 'serve hot'. full The hot'. The to 'serve the table table to of the demands of full the the imperious demands fundamental rule of should be be is that that everything everything should service is of this service organised more no more Here there there isis no to this this end. end. Here in advance advance to organised in useless the on the decoration; on vulgar decoration; no more more vulgar ornamentation, no useless ornamentation, contrary, carving isis that the the carving so that must be be arranged arranged so everything must contrary, everything guests done to the the guests dish served served to and the the dish in the minimum time and done in the minimum before method the the By this this method in its its taste. taste. By is any change in there is any change before there guests them; but but to them; food served served to guests help or have have food help themselves themselves -- or even arrangement the arrangement in advance, advance, the done in carving isis done though the the carving even though . of an and an correctness and demands correctness still demands the dishes dishes stiJl the food food on on the of the attractive are accompanied accompanied when they they are especially when appearance, especially attractive appearance, by 'garnishes', which blend must always always blend which must different'garnishes', variety of of different by aa variety perfectly with dish. principal ingredient of the the dish. ingredient of with the the principal In piping hot hot ifif served piping can be be served russe everything everything can In service service àh la la russe whoever from the the calculate from kitchen can can calculate the kitchen in charge charge of of the whoever isis in time he must must at which which he moment at fixed the the moment meal isis fixed for which which the the meal time for begin purpose the taken time taken the time for this this purpose out for working out to dish dish up, up, working begin to in must be be food must which the the food instant at at which the exact exact instant in cooking cooking and and the presented guests. presented to to the the guests. This or proscribes aU decoration or all decoration which proscribes This rapid rapid service, service, which complicated gives no to the the no scope scope to dishes, gives of hot hot dishes, complicated arrangement arrangement of culinary However, there there isis his talents. talents. However, to exercise exercise his artist to culinary artist nothing which are are dishes which cold dishes to exclude exclude cold in service service àd la la russe russe to nothing in not de' chauds-froids, devarious chauds{roids, such as as various waiting, such not spoilt spoilt by by waiting, corated glazed chickens, chickens, fancy terrines, terrines,glazed in aspic, aspic, fancy shellfish in corated shellfish mousses modern type the the modern of this this type In foodstuffs foodstuffs of in aspic, etc. In mousses in aspic, etc. cuisine of serving system ofserving progress in inadopting adopting aasystem real progress has made made real cuisine has in no need need for for any any so that that there there isis no dishes, so in bowls or deep deep dishes, bowls or supplementary almost comcompreparation. Moulds have been beenalmost Moulds have supplementary preparation. pletelyabandoned. pletely abandoned. In guestsat paftyare into aredivided divided into theguests at aaparty russe, the In service service àit la la russe,

down and and plate is left-hand left-hand side side of of the seated person; person; the the plate is put put down right in the the right served on on the taken away on the right. right. Wine Wine is is served in the into are poured first drops drops are same order as the dishes, but but the the first poured into of small crumbs crumbs of so that that small house, so of the the glass glass of the master of the house, guest. glass of of aa guest. cork do not fall into into the glass of the the the mas master where the occasion, where On a less ceremonious occasion, On ter of the dishes, or or the the dishes, food himself, himself, the and serves the food house carves and the with the round, beginning beginning with should be filled plates, filled plates, should be passed passed round, person on his right.

Service-berry Service-berry

which trees which Fruit of of various various trees ALISE -- Fruit SERVICE BERRY. ALISE SERVICE-BERRY. sorb apple. apple. with sorb confused with should not not be be confused should commonly tree, commonly as whitebeam whitebeam tree, well as as weil Wild service-tree service-tree as Wild of regions of grows freely in the mountainous regions freely in the mountainous shadbush, grows called shadbush, caJled Europe. Europe. in the the found chiefl.y chiefly in wild service-tree service-tree isis found Fontainebleau wild The Fontainebleau The parts along ofthe Seine. along the the banks banks of wooded parts wooded the Seine. pleasant acid taste. acid tas has aa very very pleasant service-trees has The fruit fruit ofwild of wild service-trees The te. protect linen to to protect Piece of of Iinen NAPKIN -- Piece TABLE NAPKlN SER VIETTE, TABLE SERVIETTE, at table. table. and fingers fingers at wipe mouth mouth and and to to wipe the the c10thing clothing and or towe!. towel. than that that oftablecloth of tablecloth or less ancient ancient than Its use use is is much much less Its the fingers on on the wiped one's one's fingers one wiped century one Up Up to to the the fifteenth fifteenth century its covered inin its second c1oth, cloth, covered the doublier, doublier, aa second tablecloth tablecloth or or on on the Later yet aa third, for this this use. use.Later intended for third, intended turn turn with with aa longière, longiire, yet generally few and and generally they were were few but they came touailles, but came napkins napkins or or touailles, century that that sixteenth century in the thesixteenth walls. ItIt was was only only in attached to the the walls. attached to general. At Atfirst first napkin became became general. table napkin the individual table the use useof of the theindividual fashion for for starched starched the fashion arm, then then the itit was the left left arm, was kept kept over over the diners' round the thediners' to be betied tied round ruffs for them them to necessary for ruffs made made itit necessary necks. necks. placed ininthe the wrapped up upand and placed napkin, wrapped At king's napkin, At court, court, the the king's personal cruet cruetand and (the golden golden vessel hispersonal nef contained his vessel which whichcontained nef(the tested, food had had been beentested, after his hisfood presented to cutlery) tohim him after was presented cutlery) was present, aa rankamong amongthose those present, the highest by personage ofthe highest rank by the the personageof dignitary. prince princeof highdignitary. royal or oraahigh the blood blood royal ofthe his napkin over over his rolled-up napkin The carried aa rolled-up The Maitre dhitel carried Maitre d'hôtel left ofoffice. office. insignia of shoulderas asan aninsignia left shoulder certain (ALA) wayof ofserving servingcertain SERVIETTE Describesaaway LA)- - Describes SERVIETTE (À not arenot foodstuffs, servietteare TruffiesàitlaIaserviette notably truffies. truffies.Truffies foodstuffs, notably foldedinto intoaa cooked one,folded areserved servedininone, napkin but but are cookedininaatable tablenapkin kind pocket. kindof ofpocket. setininaabowl bowl These wineand andset liqueur wine Thesetruffies arecooked cookedininliqueur truffiesare or placedininaafolded napkin. foldednapkin. dishwhich whichisisplaced oraasilver silver dish are Truffies styleare theold-fashioned old-fashioned style hotashes ashesininthe Truffiescooked cookedininhot

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SESAME SESAME served d serviette. Potatoes cooked in their jackets in the served à IIIIaserviette. Potatoes cooked in their jackets in the oven or in hot ashes are also served h Ia serviette. oven or in hot ashes are also served à la serviette. Rice i la serviette ricecooked cookedfor for1515minutes minutesininsalted salted Rice à la serviette isisrice water, drained, rinsed under the cold tap, and finished in a water, drained, rinsed under the cold tap, and finished in a very low oven or special drying oven wrapped in a napkin. special drying oven wrapped in a napkin. very low oven or This recipe will be found under Rice d I'indienne in the seition This recipe will be found under Rice à l'indienne in the section on RICE. on RICE. Folded napkins are used in serving certain dishes, placed Folded napkins are used in serving certain dishes, placed under earthenware dishes and casseroles or under metal under earthenware dishes and casseroles or under metal dishes, under vol-au-vents and patties, and under the glass dishes, under vol-au-vents and patties, and under the glass bowls in which cold jellied foods, mixed salads, iced swiets, bowls in which cold jellied foods, mixed salads, iced sweets, etc., are served. etc., are served. SESAME Annual herbaceous tropical tropical and andsubtropical subtropical SESAME -- Annual plant, known to theherbaceous ancient Greeks Greeks and and Hebrews, Hebrews, the the plant, known to the ancient Egyptians and Persians, where its fruit or seeds have been Persians, where its fruit or seeds have been Egyptians and used from time immemorial as a food grain and as oil. used from time immemorial as a food grain and as oil. These seeds, chiefly used to make halva (Turkish sweet), These seeds, chiefly used to make halva (Turkish sweet), are also used for cakes, cookies (biscuits), and confectionery. are also used for cakes, cookies (biscuits), and confectionery. Industrially they are are used used to to make make an an oil oil for for oleooleoIndustrially they margarine, cosmetics and soap. margarine, cosmetics and soap. SET. pnrs - Used in terms of cookery for liquids coagulated SET. PRIS - Used in terms of cookery for liquids coagulated (custards) or cold (ice creams and jellied preparaby heat heat (custards) by or cold (ice creams and jellied preparations). tions). SETIER -- Old Old French French measure measure of capacity for grain equal of capacity for grain equal to to SETIER l56litres or measure measure of of capacity capacity for for liquids liquids equal pints. equal to to 8g pints. 156 litres or Demi-setier is is aa term term used used in in Paris Paris to to mean quarter of mean aa quarter of aa Demi-setier litre. litre. SEYSSEL -- Commune Commune of of the the département dipartemenl of of Ain Ain where where aa SEYSSEL well-known white white wine wine of of the the same same name name is is made. made. well-known

Shad Shad

ALosE ALOSE - Migratory Migratory fish fish bearing bearing some some similarity similarity to to herring, but bigger bigger in in size. size. In In the the spring, spring, the the shad shad go go up the herring, but rivers rivers to to spawn spawn in in fresh fresh water. water. There shadwhich There are are two two distinct distinct species species of of shad shad :: the the Allis Allis shad which is is the the more more valued, valued, and and the the Waite Waite shadwhich shad which is is smaller smaller and coarser. coarser. The The flesh flesh of of the the shad, shad, although although a a little little heavy, heavy, is is very very delicate. The female female is is to to be be preferred preferred to to the the male, male, but but the the delicate. The latter latter are are pized prized for for their their milt milt (soft (soft roe). roe). IfIf caught caught soon soon after after spawning these fish have spawning these fish have the the tastiest tastiest of of flesh flesh but but thev they have have numerous numerous bones. bones. In of shad shad exists exists which which is is called caJled Alosa Alosa In U.S.A. U.S.A. aa species species of menhaden. Shad's roe roe isis much much prized prized in in U.S.A. U.S.A. menhaden. Shad's Like Likeall ail fish, fish, the the shad shad must must be be eaten eaten very very fresh. fresh. Its lts freshness freshness can can be be recognized recognized by by its its shiny shiny skin skin and and clear c1ear eye. eye. In addition to to the the recipes recipes given given below, below, all ail those those given given for for In addition the the preparation preparation of of bass, bass, cod, cod, herring herring and and mackerel mackerel can can be be applied to shad, shad, whether whethercooked cooked whole. whole, sliced sliced or or in in fillets. fillets. applied to Scrape Scrapeoffthe off thescales scalesand and clean cIeanthe thefish. fish. Wash Washititquickly q uickly and and dry. dry. Keep Keep the the soft soft and and the the hard hard roes roes to to prepaie prepare them them as as described describedininspecial special recipes. recipes. Shad ALOSEcLAUomr CLA UDINE-- Cut Cutthe theshad shadinto intoslices slicesof of ShadClaudine. Claudine.ALosE uniform uniformthickness. thickness. Butter Butteran anovenproof ovenproofdish, dish,line linethe thebottom bottom with with chopped chopped shallots shallots cooked cooked in in white white wine, wine, uncooked uncooked m-ushroom mushroomand andchopped choppedparsley. parsley. Put Putthe theslices slicesof offish fish on on top top ofthese. of these.

SHAD. |HAD.

Moistenwith witha afew fewtablespoons tablespoonswhite whitewine. wine.Season, Season,scatter scatter Moisten fewsmall smalldabs dabsofofbutter butterand andbake bakeininthe theoven, oven,basting basting a afew frequently.Pour Pourinin11l+dl.dl. (+pint, pint,i Jcup) cup)thick thickfresh freshsour soui frequently. cream.Glaze Glazeininthe theoven. oven. cream. Garnishwith potatoes tossed withnew newpotatoes tossedininbutter. butter. Garnish Friedshad. shad.ALOSE ALosE FRITE FRrrE- - Cut Cutinto intoslices, slices,soak soakininmilk, Fried milk, dredgewith withflour flourand anddeep-fry deep-fryininsizzling sizzlingfat. fat. dredge Drainthe theshad shadand andarrange arrangeon onaanapkin, napkin,garnish garnishwith withfried fried Drain parsleyand quarters of andquarters oflemon. lemon. parsley Friedshad shadàil'anglaise. I'anglaise.ALOSE ALosEFRITE FRrrEÀAL'ANGLAISE r'lNcL,qlsr- -Cut Cutshad shad Fried fillets into intoslices, slices,dip dipthem themininegg eggand andbreadcrumbs breadcrumbsand andfry. fry. fillets Servewith withMaître Maitre d'hôtel (seeBUTTER, d hitelbutter butter(see BUTTER,Compound Serve Compouid butters). butters). Friedshad shadOrly. Orly.ALOSE arosnFRITE FRrrEORLY oRLy- -Marinate Marinate the thefillets Fried filletsof of shadininoil, oil, lemonjuice, lemon juice,chopped chopped parsley, parsley, salt saltand pepper. andpepper. shad .drthTomato Dip ininbatter batterand and fry fryinindeep deep fat. fat.Serve Servewith Tomatisauce Dip sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). (see (whole). ALOSE Grilled shad shad (whole). arosnGRILLÉE (rNrrtnE)- - Clean cRu-fn (ENTIÈRE) Grilled Clean aa medium-sized shad, shad,scrape scrape off offscales, scales,wash washand andthoroughly medium-sized thoroughly wipe it. it. Make Make aafew few deep deep incisions incisions inin the the fleshy part of fleshypart wipe the ofttl back, on on both both sides. sides. Season Season with with salt saltand pipperand and pepper back, and marinate for for an juice, parsley, an hour hour in in oil, lemon juice, parsley, thyme oil, lemon marinate thyme and and bay leaf. bayleaf. Cook under grill, on under aa grill, on moderate moderate heat, heat, for for 30 Cook 30minutes. minutes. Arrange on on aa long long dish. dish. Garnish Garnish the the borders borders of Arrange of the the dish dish with half half slices slices of of lemon. lemon. Serve Servewith with Maître Maitre d'hôtel with thitet butter butter or or with any any other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for for grilled grilled fish (see BUTTER, with fish (see BUTTER, Compound butters butters or or SAUCE). SAUCE). Compound (in slices). Grilled shad shad (in slices). ALOSE (rN TRANCHES) ALosE GRILLÉE cnlnfr (EN rR,r,Ncnns) -- Cut Grilled Cut the shad shad into into slices (f inch) slices 22 cm cm Ci inch) thick, season, marinate thick, season, the marinate in in oil, oil, lemon juice, parsley, parsley, thyme thyme and and bay bay leaf leaf fof for 15 lemonjuice, l5 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Grill for for 12 12 to to 15 15 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve in in the the same Grill same way wav as as whole whole shad. shad. Shad with with mushrooms, mushrooms, ài la la bonne bonne femme. Shad femme. ALOSE ALosE AUX AUx cHAMprcNoNS, ÀA LA La BONNE BoNNE FEMME FEMME -- Proceed Proceed as CHAMPIGNONS, as described described in in for Brm Brill àd la (See BRILL). la bonnefemme. bonnefemme. (See BRILL). the recipe for (American cookery). Shad on on plank (American cookery). ALOSE Shad lrosE SUR suR PLANCHETTE ILANcHETTE medium-sized shad. shad. Trim Trim and -- Fillet a medium-sized and marinate marinate for for an hour an hour lemon juice, salt and and pepper. Put it, in oil, lemonjuice, it, skin skin side side down, down, on on shad is a buttered plank. If aa female shad is being cooked, cooked, place the the roes in in the middle of the fiJlets. fillets. Secure roes Secure the the whole with with two two heated, buttered skewers. in the oven or or under the grill. From time Cook in the oven the grill. time to to time baste the fish with melted butter. Put the the plank on on aa long platter. platter. Withdraw the the skewers. Garnish Garnish with quarters of lemon and and little sprigs sprigs of parsley. Serve hitel butter, and aa cucumber salad. Maître dd'hôtel Serve with Mattre The cooking of certain certain dishes on on planks, planks, both fish fish and and meat, is very very popular in U.S.A. For this this purpose an an oak board board is is used, used, 35 35 cm. (14 (14 inches) inches) long, 30 30 cm(l2inches) cm (12 inches) wide and 33 cm cm (lf (Ii inches) inches) thick. These boards have a ring at each corner. corner. Shad au plat. plat. nrosr ALOSE AU AU ILAT PLAT - Choose a a shad shad weighing about about 700 700 to to 800 800 g. g. (1| (11 to to lfi 1i lb.). lb.). Coat Coat the the inside inside with 50 50 g. g; ((2 oz., cup) kneaded kneaded butter, butter, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley, aa oz., f, cup) teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped shallots, shallots, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Put Put in in aa buttered buttered ovenproof dish. dish. Season with with salt and pepper, pepper, sprinkle sprinkle with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant {1 cup) cup) white white wine or mushroom mushroom stock, stock, scatter scatter aa few few small small dabs dabs of of butter butter wine or on on the thefish, fish, and and cook cook in in the the oven oven at at 190"C. 190°C. (375"F., (375°F., Gas Gas Mark 5) 5) from from 25 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Baste Baste frequently frequently during during cooking. cooking. If If the the pan pan juices juices boil boil down downtoo too quickly, quickly, add add aa few few drops drops mushroom mushroom stock stock or or water. water. Serve Serve in in the the dish dish in in which which the the fish fish isis cooked. cooked. l'ancienne. ALosE ALOSE FARcTE FARCIE A À l',q.NcENNE L'ANCIENNE Stuffed shad shad ià I'ancienne. Stuffed Proceed Proceed as asdescribed described in in the therecipe recipe for for Stuffed Stuffedcarp carp dà I'ancienne l'ancienne (see (seeCARP). CARP). Stuffed shad shad ià lala m6nagire. ménagère. ALosE ALOSE FARcTE FARCIE AÀ u LA unNlctnn MÉNAGÈREStuffed -

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SHERBETS SHERBETS SHARPEN. SHARPEN. AIcuIsER AlGUlSER -- Term Term in in pastry-making, pastry-making, used used figfiguratively uratively speaking, speaking, of of a a cream cream or or liquid, liquid, which which means means juice or sharpening sharpening up, up, making making itit acid acid by by adding adding lemon lemonjuice or citric citric

Fill Fill the the shad shad with with aa stuffing stuffing prepared prepared with with a a mixture mixture of of breadcrumbs, butter, butter, lightly lightly fried fried chopped chopped onion, onion, chopped chopped breadcrumbs, parsley parsley and and chervil, chervil, all ail well weil seasoned. seasoned. Cook the the shad shad as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Shod Shad au au plat. plat. Cook Stuffed shad shad ià la la mode mode de de Cocherel. Cocherel. ALosE ALOSE ftourrrp ÉTOUFFÉE iÀ r,c, LA Stuffed MODE DE DE cocHEREL COCHEREL -- Stuffa Stuff a shad shad weighing2kg, weighing 2 kg. (ai (41 lb.) lb.) with with MoDE whiting in the following: following: Pound Pound the the flesh ftesh of ofwhiting in aa mortar, mortar, season season the with salt, salt, pepper pepper and grated grated nutmeg nutmeg and and add, add, whilst whilst still with pounding, 300 g., llII oz., whiting) whiting) one one egg egg white. white. Rub Rub pounding, (for (for 300 through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Add Add 3+ 31 dl. (generous (generous i1 pint, pint, l] 11 cups) cups) ihrough fresh double double cream, cream, little !ittle by by little. Add Add 22 good good tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 fresh tablespoons) chopped, chopped, blanched blanched and drained drained spring spring onions, tablespoons) and one one tablespoon tablespoon of chopped parsley, blending blending with with a and wooden spoon. spoon. wooden Wrap the the shad in very very thin thin bacon rashers, rash ers, secure with Wrap string and thread on skewers. Grill under medium heat for string few minutes before removing removing the about 30-45 minutes. A few skewers, take take offthe off the rashers and brown brown the fish. skewers. dish and surround surround with with the Arrange the shad in a large dish groups: small new following garnish, arranged in separate groups: cooked in in butter, quarters quarters of young young artichokes, potatoes cooked glazed new small glazed blanched, drained drained and and stewed in in butter, butter, small blanched, onions. pan juices with a glass of of dry white wine, add 4 Dilute the pan (i- pint, scant 22 cups) cream, boil down, add butter, strain, dl. (| and serve in aa sauceboat. ponrucnsr r^l PORTUGAlSE Stuffed à la portugaise. portugaise. ALOSE A LA ALosE FARCIE À Stuffed shad dr add preceding recipe, but add -- Stuff the shad as as described in the preceding Stuffthe clove chopped mushrooms, lightly fried in in oil, and aa crushed clove chopped of of garlic to the stuffing. Cook 21 dl. cooked add add2tdl. half cooked When half fireproof dish. When eook in oil in aa fireproof j pint, generous cup) TOMATO). (scant 1 fondue (see TOMA TO). cnp) Tomato Tomatofondue A Finish frequently. A basting frequently. together, basting Finish cooking cooking everything together, few with sprinkle with from the the oyen, oven, sprinkle moments before removing from few moments breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, add aa dash of oil and brown lightly.

acid. acid. strongly. The The word word isis also also used used in in the the sense sense of of spicing spicing aa dish dish strongly.

Sharpening steel o u,, a,ll"ffil)iuriff) (Coutellerie André. Phol. Larousse)

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by instrument used used by Steel instrument FUsIL -- Steel SHARPENING STEEL. FUSIL SHARPENING knives. their knives. sharpen their cooks to sharpen butchers butchers and cooks BROTHS. AND BROTHS. SOUPS AND SHCHI -- Russian soup. See SOUFS SHCHI comes content cornes in content Its milk milk in ass. Its Female ass. ANnssr -- Female SHE-ASS. ÂNESSE animal. domestic animal. any other domestic human milk than that of any nearer to human (See MILK.) MILK.) (See mediciiral France for for medicihal in France valued in much valued was much Ass's miJk milk was Ass's courtesans All the the courtesans as aa cure. cure. Ali Frangois 1I took itit as purposes since François for the vogue vogue for that began began the king, and and that their king, imitate to imita hastened to te their ass's mûk. milk. ass's

with copper, copper, case bound bound with Type ofwooden of wooden case cArNE - Type SHEATH. GAlNESHEATH. to carry carry used to cooks used and cooks butchers and in which which butchers leather in or leather nickel or today. in use use today. much in no longer longer much are no sheaths are Such sheaths their knives. knives. Such their

LAMB. MUTTON, LAMB. SHEEP - See MUTTON, SHEEP-See for recipes for All recipes DE MOUTON MouroN -- AJI cERVELLE DE Sheeps' brains. brains. CERVELLE Sheeps' (See for sheeps' sheeps'brains' are suitable suitable for calves' brains brains are and calves' lambs' and brains. (See MEATS.) VARIETY MEATS.) or VARIETY OFFAL or OFFAL DE RoGNoNs DE pilaf J.I. PILAF PILAF AUX AUx ROGNONS lamb's kidney kidney pilaf or lamb's Sheep's or Sheep's (ring) mould mould border (ring) into aa buttered buttered border rice into Put the the rice MouroN -- Put MOUTON sheep's with halved halved sheep's rice with the rice Cover the to aa dish. dish. Coyer on to and tum turn out out on and in the the as described described in and finished finished as in butter butter and sautded in kidneys, sautéed kidneys, (see OFFAL or OFFAL or wine (see white wine saileed inin white Kidney sautéed recipe for for Kidney recipe MEATS). VARTETY V ARIETY MEATS). DE RoGNoNS DE AUX ROGNONS pilaf n. PILAF AUX II. PILAF kidney pilaf lamb's kidney or lamb's Sheep's or Sheep's pilaf for Shrimp recipe for Shrimp pilaf in the the recipe described in Proceed as as described MouroN -- Proceed MOUTON lamb's pilaf withsheep's or lamb's sheep's or garnishing the the pilafwith SHRIMPS) garnishing 11(see II (see SHRIMPS) in the the described in asdescribed finished as and finished in butter butter and fried in sliced, fried kidneys, sliced, kidneys, (see OFF or OFFAL wine (see white wine sautbed inin white for Kidneys Kidneys sautéed recipe for AL or recipe MEATS). VARIETY MEATS). VARIETY inferior rather inferior liver isisrather This liver DE MOUTON MouroN -- This rorc DE liver. FOIE Sheep's Sheep's liver. liver way as ascalves' calves' liver sameway in the thesame cooked in can be be cooked in in ftavour. flavour. ItIt can (see OFF MEATS). or VVARIETY OFFAL (see AL or ARIETY MEATS).

SHAD-BUSH. AMELANCHlER coverservice-tree coverof service-tree Genus of AMELANcHISR -- Genus ing several types of fruit. edible fruit. bearing edible shrubs bearing of shrubs has aa tart tatt This and has slightly astringent astringent and fruit, which This fruit, which isis slightly popular with with ftavour, It isis popular over-ripe. It slightly over-ripe. when slightly flavour, isis better better when children. SHAGGY charactemushroom characteEdible mushroom coPRIN -- Edible CAP. COPRIN SHAGGY JNK II\K CAP. rized by Prepared its name name derives. derives. Prepared which its from which spores, from by black spores, in the same when be eaten eaten when It should should only only be as mushrooms. mushrooms. It same way way as very pink. gills are young, while still pink. are still the gills very young, while the SHALLOT. to according to which, according Pot vegetable vegetable which, fcH.q.Lore -- Pot SHALLOT. ÉCHALOTE Candolle derivative (French botanist 1806-1893) merely aa derivative 180G1893) isis merely Candolle (French people find of the garlic. Sorne find the Some people taste of of garlic. slight taste the onion, onion, with with aa slight of the shallot than onion. onion. digestible than more readûy readily digestible shallot more Shallot in aa finely in Pound finely o'EcHetorE -- Pound BEURRE D'ÉCHALOTE Shallot butter. butter. BEURRE mortar .. (41 under cooled under blanched, cooled shallot, blanched, 125 gg. oz.) shallot, mortar 125 @| oz.) (41oz., g. (41 running oz., 1! 125 g. Add 125 and squeezed. squeezed. Add drained and running water, water, drained cup) hair sieve. sieve' cloth or or hair Rub through Mix. Rub through aa cloth fresh butter. cup) fresh butter. Mix. This precuvre prefor cold cold hors-d' hors-d œuvre This composite composite butter butter isis used used for parations, also as ingredient additional ingredient as an an additional parations, especially canapts;also especially canapés; in grills. served with with grills. sauces, and and isis served in sorne some sauces, Essence dl. (t(+ Bring 22 dl. EssENcE D'ÉCHALOTES D'fcs^alor'rs -- Bring Essence of of shallot. shallot. ESSENCE pint, (2 oz., oz., 1j cup) cup) 50g.g. (2 Add 50 pint, scant to the boil. Add vinegar to the boil. scant cup) cup) vinegar chopped muslin. through muslin. minutes. Strain Strain through Boil for for 55 minutes. shallot. Boil chopped shallot. Essence instead of of wine instead white wine made with with white can be be made Essence of of shallot shallot can vinegar. vinegar.

grainfrom from othercereal corn or orother To detach detach corn fcnmsn - - To SHELL. cereal grain SHELL. ÉGRENER stalk. the the stalk. toshell. shell. mean to also mean andécosser bcosseralso termsécaler and The French Frenchterms The 'lcaler fruit and and offruit or husks husks of shellsor removing shells to removing applied to Écaler Ecaler isis applied means toto Ecossermeans shellfish.Écosser andshellfish. eggsand ihettittg eggs vegetables, vegetables, shelling peasand beans. podfrom and beans. from peas theshell shellor orpod remove remove the SeeCR CRUSTACEANS. SHELLFISH UST ACEANS. SHELLFISH --See

(Corn salad). BouRsE-A-PASTEUR - salad).BOURSE-À-PASTEUR PURSE(Corn SHEPHERD'S SHEPHERD'S PURSE known asasbourse-àbourse-itplant which also known which isisalso foraaplant Common name for Common name shady found ininshady oftenfound orbourcette, bourcette, often berger boursette or andboursette bergerand pickedatatftowering flowering salads.IfIfpicked usedininsalads. places.ItIt isissometimes places. sometimes used called alsocalled watercress' ItItisisalso ofwatercress. thatof time, not unlike unlike that itstaste tasteisisnot time,its lamb's lamb's lettuce. lettuce.

SHARK. fish carnivorous fish number of of carnivorous Name of of aa number REeuIN- - Name SHARK. REQUIN whose metres (inches)totoseveral several metres few cm cm(inches) varies from fromaa few whose size size varies (yards) verytough, tough,isis (yards) long. shark, though thoughvery flesh of of the the shark, long. The The ftesh used peoples negropeoples somenegro Lappsand and by bysorne theLapps foodstuff by bythe usedas asaafoodstuff who partialtotoit.it. very partial who are are very Shark theChinese. Chinese. bythe muchesteemed esteemed by fins are are much Shark fins

are Franceare which ininFrance ices,which Theseices, SHERBETS. soRsnrs- - These SHERBETS. SORBETS place theplace take the courses,take maincourses, themain usually between the servedbetween usually served served inin usedtotobe beserved formerly used whichformerly nowadays theliqueurs liqueurswhich nowadays of ofthe

841 841

SHERRY the middle middle of of the the meal meal and and which which inin sorne parts of some parts of France France the werecalled called coup coup du milieu, and dumilieu, and in in others others trou trou normand. normand. were Sherbets are are made made from from fruÜ, fruit, liqueurs liqueurs and and heavy heavy wines. wines. Sherbets Here isis the the recipe recipe most most commonly commonly used: used: Here (quart) of For 11 litre litre (quart) (scant pint, ofsherbet. pint,2fcups) of Ilitre (scant For sherbet.1litre 2i cups) of juice of any sweet sweet wine, wine, the the juice of 2Zlemons and 1I orange, orange, syrup syrup (1(l any lemons and cup sugar sugar and and 22 cups cups water water boiled boiled 55 minutes, minutes, strained strained and and cup cooled). cooled). All sherbet sherbet mixtures mixtures must must be be made made from from aa light light syrup. syrup. The The AU saccharometer should should never never register register more (see more than than 15° 15' (see saccharometer SUGAR). Sherbets Sherbets are are iced iced as as follows: follows: SUGAR). Pour the the mixture mixture into into aa Churn Churn freezer freezer already already embedded embedded in in Pour ice. Set Set the the mechanism mechanism working. working. Alternatively, Alternatively, pour pour the the ice. mixture into into aa container place in container and and place in aa food food freezer. freezer. From From mixture time to to time time scrape scrape the the inside inside of of the the freezer freezer to to detach detach any any time sherbet sticking sticking to to the the sides. sides. This This should should not, not, however, however, be be sherbet stirred into into the the rest rest of of the the mixture, mixture, as as the the sherbet, sherbet, once once itit is is stirred frozen, should should have have aa slightly gritty texture. slightly gritty texture. frozen, gently sorne Stir in in very very gently some ltalian (a quarter ltalian meringue quarter of meringue (a of the the Stir volume of of the the sherbet, sherbet, see see MERINGUE) MERINGUE) or, or, ifpreferred, if preferred, the the volume same amount amount of of whipped whipped cream, cream, and and whatever whatever liqueur liqueur or or same dessert wine wine is is desired. desired. dessert Presentation of of sherbets. sherbets. The The mixture mixture should should be removed be removed Presentation from the the freezer freezer with with aa special special conical conical scoop. portion scoop. Each Each portion from should be point upwards, be set, set, point upwards, in in aa sherbet sherbet cup cup and and sprinkled sprinkled should with the the same same liqueur liqueur or or wine wine as as that that used used in in the the mixture. mixture. with SHERRY. x6nts, given JEREZ -- Name Name given in in England England to to the the SHERRY. xÉRÈS, JEREZ Spanish wine wine Xérès. Xdrds. Spanish Sherry is is aa fortified fortified wine, produced principally wine, produced from the the Sherry principally from Palomino grape grape in in the the countryside countryside surrounding surrounding Jerez Jerez de de la la Palomino Frontiera in Spain. Spain. There great variety There is is aa great of sherries sherries Frontiera in variety of ranging, in in col colour, from aa pale gold to to dark dark brown and, in brown and, in ranging, our, from pale gold taste, from from very very dry dry to to sweet. sweet. The The dry dry sherries sherries include include Fino, Fino, taste, Vino de de Pasto, Pasto, Manzanilla darker, older older variety called Manzanilla and and aa darker, variety called Vino Amontillado. Slightly Slightly sweeter sweeter varieties called Amontillado. varieties include include those those called Oloroso and and Amoroso and among quite sweet among the dark and sweet Oloroso Amoroso and the dark and quite varieties are Cream, and East varieties are Cream, Brown Brown and East India. India. Spanish sherries, sherries, unlike their imitators, subject many of oftheir imita tors, are are subject Spanish unlike many to fermentation, ageing to aa very very special special process process of offermentation, ageing and and blending blending which which make make their their product product unequalled unequalled in in the the world. world. Sherry Sherry cobblercobbler - Iced Iced drink. drink. Put Put into into aa glass, glass, one-third one-third filled fiJled with with crushed crushed ice, ice, one one tablespoon tablespoon sugar sugar and and l| li tablespoons tablespoons (2 (2 tablespoons) tablespoons) of of Curagao. Curaçao. Fill Fill up up the the glass glass with with sherry. sherry. Add Add aa slice of orange. orange. slice of SHIN. JARRETan animal SIllN. JARRET - Part Part of of the the leg leg of ofan animal behind behind the the kneekneejoint. It corresponds corresponds with with the the tibia-tarsal tibia-tarsal or or radio-carpal radio-carpal joint. It bone bone in in humans. humans. The The shin shin of of veal veal isis used used in in the the preparation preparation of of stock. stock. ItIt can can also also be be cut cut into into sections sections and and braised. braised. (See (See VEAL, VEAL, Knuckle veal.) Knuckle of ofveal.)

Theshoulder shoulderof ofdifferent different types types of of venison venison isiscooked cookedin in the The the same way wayas as haunch haunchof venison, but of venison, but isis more more commonly commonly used same used in civets. civets. in

SHOVELLER -- See See DUCK, DUCK, Wild Wild duck. duck. SHOVELLER SHREDDER AND AND SLICER. SLICER. MANDOLINE MANEoLTNE -- A plane, A kind kind of SHREDDER of plane, sometimes fluted, fluted, used used for for shredding shredding or or slicing slicing vegetables, sometimes vegetables, potatoes. especially potatoes. especially with an an implement implement of of this this type type that that vegetables vegetables are ItIt isis with are shredded into into matchsticks matchsticks or or straws straws or or sliced sliced very very thin, thin, as as for for shredded potato crisps. crisps. potato prr-cnrtcne -- Popular SHRIKE. PIE-GRJÈCHE Popular name name for for small perching small perching SHRIKE. bird of of the the family family Laniidae. Laniidoe.It prepared in can be be prepared in any any way way It can bird suitable for for lark. lark. suitable

Sword shrimps shrimps Sword (Kollar) (Kollor)

SHRIMPS. CREVETTES cREvErrEs -- Little shellfish used for hors-d' hors-deuvre SHRIMPS. Little shellfish œuvre and and garnishes. garnishes. The The two two principal principal European types are l. 1. the Sword Sword shrimp shrimp (crevette the head of which is is armed armed with with a a long(crevette rose), rose), the head of toothed toothed beak. It It becomes rosy when when cooked and the flesh is white white and firm; firm; 2. the Common Common shrimp (uevette (crevette grisel grise) which which is smaller, with with a smooth short short beak. beak. It takes takes on a pinkishpinkishgrey which is rather rather limp, is grey colour when when cooked. The flesh, which less less appreciated appreciated than that that of of the the sword-shrimp. sword-shrimp. Cooking of of shrimps. shrimps. Put Put the the shrimps shrimps alive into boiling boiling salted Do not not add add seasoning. seasoning. When When possible possible cook cook the the salted water. Do shrimps through muslin muslin shrimps in in sea sea water water which which has has been been strained strained through or or through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. Cooked Cooked in in this this way way and and cooled, cooled, the the shrimps are are served as as an an hors-d hors-d'cuvre. œuvre. Shrimps Shrimps in in U.S.A. U.S.A. vary vary from from the the large large size size found found off off the the southern southern shores, shores, which which average average aa dozen dozen to to 450 450 g. g. (pound), (pound), to to the the tiny tiny ones, ones, averaging averaging 40 40 to to 450 450 g. g. (pound). (pound). These These small small ones ones fished fished off off the the Alaskan Alaskan and and northern northern New New England England shores shores are are less less popular, popular, although although ofa of a good good flavour. flavour. Shrimp Shrimp aspic. aspic. esuc ASPIC DE DE cREvETTEs CREVETTES -- Arrange Arrange peeled peeled cooked cooked shrimps mou Id lined lined with with clear clear aspic aspic jelly, jelly, shrimps in in layers layers in in aa mould leaving of the the mould mould free. free. Fill Fill the the centre centre with with aa leaving the the centre centre of shrimp shrimp mousse mousse made madewith with the the shrimp shrimp peelings peelings or or with with Shrimp Shrimp mousse mousse described described below. below. Cover almost set. set. Chill Chili Coyer completely completely with with aspic aspicjelly jelly which which isis almost on on ice ice or or in in the the refrigerator refrigerator before before turning turning out. out. Shrimp Shrimp butter buUer -- See See BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters. butters. Shrimp Shrimp canapes canapés -- See See HORS-D'GUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Cold Cold horshorsdeuyre. d'œuvre. Shrimp Shrimp coqnilles. coquilles. coQLnLLEs COQUILLES DE DE cREvETTEs CREVETTES -- Made Made with with peeled peeled shrimps shrimps and and Bhchamel Béchamelsauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), to to which which shrimp shrimpbutter butter isis added. added.

SIIIRR SHIRR -- To To break break eggs eggs into into aa baking baking dish dish and and cook cook them them

either or on on top top of of the the stove. stove. (See (See EGGS.) EGGS.) either in in the the oven oyen or

SHORTBREAD SHORTBREAD -- Make Make pastry pastry with with 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 4| 41 cups) cups) flour, flour, 200 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz., oz., scantcup) scant cup) sugar, sugar, 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., oz., 2f 2i cups) cups) softened 125 g. g. (! (41 oz., oz., I1cup) cup) ground ground almonds, almonds, 33 egg egg softened butter, butter, 125 powdered whites and vanilla. whites and powdered vanilla. Press Press out out on on to to aa buttered buttered baking baking sheet sheet through through aa forcing forcing bag bag fitted fitted with with aa fluted fluted pipe. pipe. Bake Bake for for 50 50 minutes minutes in in the the oven oyen at Gas Mark Mark l). 1). at 140"C. 140°C. (275"F., (275°F., Gas SHOULDER. SHOULDER. Ep.lurr ÉPAULE -- The The front front leg leg of of quadrupeds. quadrupeds. Cuts Cuts from from shoulder shoulder ofbeefare of beef are braised braised or orused used in in hot-pots. hot-pots. Shoulder veal, usually Shoulderof ofveal, usually boned boned and and rolled rolledinto intoaalong, long, tight tight bundle, braised, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or roasted. roasted. ItIt isis also also used used in in bundle, isis braised, sautis sautés and and ragottts. ragoûts. Shoulder Shoulder of ofmutton mutton and and lamb, lamb, boned boned or or whole, whole, isis cooked cooked ininthe alsoused used inin stews. stews. thesame sameway way as as the thelegs. legs. ItIt isis also 842 842

SIPHON SIPHON 'Thus 'Thus this this foodstuff foodstuff was was prepared prepared for for the the mandarins mandarins and and

Fried Fried shrimps. cREvETrEs CREVETTES FRITEs FRlTES -- Cook Cook the the shrimps shrimps in in Garnish with with boiling oil. oil. Drain, and and season season with with fine fine salt. salt. Garnish boiling fried parsley. parsley. fried MOUSSE FRoIDE FROIDE DE DE cREYErrEs CREVETTES -- Cook Cook Cold shrimp shrimp mousse. mousse. MoussE Cold in the shrimps shrimps inamirepoix in a in the the same same way way as as crayfish. (q.v.). the Peel Peel some some of of the the shrimps in in order order to to have have enough tails tails with which to to decorate decorate the mould. mould. Pound Pound the the rest rest with with the the which mirepoix in in which which they they were were cooked. cooked. Pass Pass the the mixture mixture through a fine fine sieve. sieve. through Add Add to to the the puree purée aa quarter quarter of of its its volume volume of of Veloutb Velouté sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based based on fish fish stock which has has been been boiled I 8 oz., down. For For every every 500 500 g. g. ((18 oz., 22 cups) cups) pur6e, add add 22 dl. ($ pint, Add2+ 21 dl. (scant (scant f pint, generous generous cup) scant cup) fish aspic. Add scant cream, which has has been whipped whipped not not too too stiff. cream, Put Put the the mousse in a mould mould lined Iined with aspic and decorated decorated with the the shrimp shrimp tails, tails, and and if if desired desired with some some trufre truffie with decoration. Cover Coyer with aspic. Allow Allow to get thoroughly cold. decoration. out and arrange arrange in a bowl. Turn out J. prt PILAF DE cREvErrEs CREVETTES -- Cook Cook the the rice rice and add Shrimp pilaf pilaf I. .lr DE Shrimp g. (4 (4-t oz.) peeled peeJed shrimps. Mix Mix carefully carefully so 50 as not to to it 125 e. grains. damage the rice grains. pIr,c,F os DE cnrvnrrss CREVETTES -- Cook the rice and line Shrimp pilaf II. PILAF mould with it. a buttered mould peeled shrimps Shrimp sauce II shrimps bound with Shrimp II Add a ragoût Add ragoitt of of peeled lightly of the rice, pressing Iightly (see SAUCE). with the rest of Cover with SAUCE). Coyer spoon to pack the rice properly. of a spoon with the back ofa properly. Put in the oyen moments. Turn out on to a dish and surround oven for a few moments. sauce. with a ring of shrimp sa uce. Season peeled cREVErrEs -- Season DE CREVETTES Shrimp slrlDE DE Shrimp salad. salad. SALADE Decorate with or mayonnaise. mayonnaise. Decorate vinaigrette or shrimps with vinaigrette shrimps with quarters of lettuce hearts. hard-boiled eggs and lettuce ofhard-boiled SALAD. Shrimp dieppoise -- See SALAD. Shrimp salad ài la dieppoise AUx or bisque. PorAGEs AUX cream or Shrimp soup: coulis, coulis, cream Shrimp soup: BIsQUE -- Prepare with shrimps ou BISQUE CREVETTES: cniur OU cREvETrEs: COULIS, coulls, CRÈME similar nature like the the soups soups of aa similar cooked in aa mirepoix mirepox Iike cooked in BROTHS, Purée Purie prepared with crayfish. (See SOUPS AND BROTHS, prepared ofshrimp of shrimp soup.)

the the wealthy. wealthy. As As for for the the poor, poor, after after having grilled grilled the the chrysalids outer covering, covering, they fried fried the the chrysalids and and removed removed their their outer rest butter or or fat fat and and seasoned seasoned them them with with a a little Httle salt, salt, rest in in butter just as pepper pepper or vinegar; vinegar; or or even even ate ate them them as they they were, were, with with rice, rice, content content simply simply to to have have removed removed their outer outer covering.' covering.'

SILLERY SILLERY --- Renowned Renowned Champagne Champagne wine wine harvested harvested in in the the country country around around the the commune commune of of Sillery Sillery inthe in the dipartement département of of the the Marne. Marne. SILVER. SJLVER. ARGENTERIE ARGENTERIE DE DE rABLE TABLE -- This This term term describes describes all ail the the utensils or silver-plated silver-plated metal metal used used at at table. table. utensils in in silver silver or silver More specifically this applies applies to to individual individual pieces pieces of of silver which to make up up what what is is called called the'cover', the 'cover', (U.S.A. (U.S.A. which go go in to 'place and knife, knife, when when the the latter latter has has 'place setting'), i.e. i.e. spoon, spoon, fork fork and SPOON.) silver-plated handle. handle. (See (See FORK, FORK, SPOON.) aa silver or silver-plated olden which in other articles Table silver also also includes includes other articles which in the the olden such shapes, su various shapes, of various days were called silver plate, plate, articles articles of ch soup tureens, small bowls, bowls, soup or small as round or oval dishes, as dishes, large large or tureens, etc. sauceboats, pie sauceboats, pie dishes, dishes, etc. silver decorative silver are also Among Among table silverware are also included included decorative pedestal baskets, pedestaJ as sai salvers, and silver-plate pieces, pieces, such as vers, fruit fruit baskets, dishes, etc. tree, spring this this tree, In the the spring BLANc -- In BouLEAU BLANC SILVER SIL VER BIRCH. BOULEAU great deal deal of of contains aa great countries, contains which grows northem countries, which grows in in northern pleasant very pleasant fresh, makes makes aa very when fresh, which, when sap which, sour-sweet sap sour-sweet drink. drink. pnBrnr -- Small sea regional sea Small regional ATHERINE. PRËTRE SILVERSIDE or ATHERJNE. SJLVERSJDE (4 to to 77 l8 cm. l0 to to 18 cm. (4 of aa sme1t, smelt, 10 size of fish of France about the size fish Its star. lts like aa star. silvery mark like its sides sides aa sil showing on its inches) long, showing very mark quite delicate. flesh is is quite delicate. flesh is used used whose bark bark is Guiana, whose Tree, native native to to Guiana, SIMAROUBA-- Tree, SIMAROUBA bitter tonic. for aa bitter

gently over very low low flame. flame. To cook cook gently over aa very MIJoTER -- To MIJOTER quivering of of aa The slight slight quivering rnfunsnMENr -- The SIMMERING. FRÉMISSEMENT SJMMERlNG. just before poaching, the When poaching, the to the the boil. boil. When comes to liquid just before itit cornes in this state ail all the the time. time. should be kept in this state liquid should Iiquid pot-au-feu, are are cooked cooked entirely entirely by by foods, as pot-au-feu, Some food s, such as Sorne simmering. simmering.

SIMMER. SIMMER.

tropical TREE. FROMAGER FRoMAGER -- Tree, native to tropical SILK-COTTON SILK-COTTON TREE. reminiscent of of is of white wood, wood. somewhat somewhat reminiscent Africa. Its trunk is 'fromager' in in is called called fromager' cheese cheese in appearance. For this reason, it is French. Oil is extracted fruit. Oil is extracted from its fruit. This rather rather vnns ÀA SOIE soIE -- This cookery). VERS SILKWORMS (Chinese cookery). 'Celestial in the the 'Celestial of in very well well thought thought of was very unusual unusual foodstuff was French of aa French the account account of Empire', to believe believe the are to Empire', ifif we we are Father Favaud: Favaud: missionary in China, missionary in China, Father 'since our in the farmers in the our farmers 'lt he wrote, wrote, 'since 'It isis sorne centuries', he some centuries', know they silkworms, but but lI know of silkworms, Midi the production of Midi took took up the for nourishment. nourishment. In have of using any any ofthem of them for never dreamed ofusing have never long stay stay lI the long During the thing at at aIl. all. During the same same thing China not the China itit isis not people eat eat seen people have often often seen have country, lI have made in in that that country, have made can state state themmyself. silkworm chrysalids, and myself. lI can and lI have have eaten eaten them silkwormchrysalids, strengthening that stomachic, strengthening excellent stomachic, an excellent they constitute constitute an that they persons often often which delicate delicate persons and same time, time, whicb refreshing at at the the same and refreshing use results. with successful use with successful results. quantity of of certain quantity 'The cocoons unwound, aa certain 'The having been been unwound, cocoons having part runs runs pan so watery part thechrysalids gilled in that the the watery so that in the the pan the chrysalids are are gilled are and they they are comes off, off, and right covering cornes Their outer outer covering right off. off Their yellow objects, like carp carp rather like presented objects, rather presented in of small small yeJlow in the the fonn form of roes. roes. with sprinkled with 'These and sprinkled fat or or oil, oil, and 'These are fried in in butter, butter, fat are fried (chicken stock stock the best). best). stock isis the stock (chicken crushed they are are crushed 'When they five minutes minutes they 'When for five they have have boiled boiled for stirred mass isis carefully carefully stirred with whole mass spoon, and and the the whole with aa wooden wooden spoon, vessel.Sorne Some egg egg the vesse!. so the bottom in the of the left in bottom of so that that nothing nothing isis left 100 proportion of every 100 of 33 toto every yolks yolks are in the the proportion are beaten, beaten, in way aa beautiful beautiful chrysalids, poured over, in this this way and in over, and and poured chrysalids, and flavour, isisobtained. obtained. yellow and golden yellow cream, and of an exquisite exquisite flavour, of an cream, golden

poultry and and rotating poultry Process of of rotating FLAMBAGE -- Process SINGEING. FLAMBAGE SINGEING. gas flame off to bum burn off flame to lamp or or gas spirit lamp game, etc. over aa spirit etc. over winged game, winged hair. and hair. feathers and feathers Frenchculinary term of unknown origin meaning SINGER-- French SINGER to sprinkle with flour a ragoitt or other preparation in order to thicken the sauce. professional of the the professional domestic equivalent of The domestic furn -- The SINK. ÉVIER SINK. dishes, for washing washing dishes, used for sink. It isis used washing-up sink. chef 's sm small chef's ail washing-up small for washing washing small and occasionally occasionally for vegetables and washing vegetables for washing for purpose requires requires that that itit of purpose multiplicity of This multiplicity cloth. This articles of of clotho articles of ceramic, ceramic, are made made of use. Sinks Sinks are after use. cleaned aCter be thoroughly thoroughly c1eaned be most commonly or, most cast-iron, plastic, or, stone, enamelled enamelled cast-iron, stone, double, round or double, steel. They are single or stainless steel. of stainless nowadays, of nowadays, with aa equipped with of varying varying depths and often equipped rectangular, of or rectangular, or Sinks surface. Sinks working surface. up as asaa working doubles up that doubles board that draining board draining the of the Theevacuation evacuation of water. The cold water. hot and and cold with hot are supplied supplied with are plug. Sorne are equipped equipped sinks are Some sinks of aa plug. means of done by by means water isis done water unit. disposal unit. with aa waste waste disposai with or glass,often in wicker wicker or often encased encased in of thick thick glass, Carafe of SIPHON -- Càrafe SIPHON with made effervescent effervescent with has been been made that has water that holding water metal, holding metal, with aametal metal closed with pressure. Siphons are closed gas under Siphons are under pressure. carbonic gas carbonic liquid to toescape. escape. theIiquid allows the which allows provided with lever which with aalever top provided top of with the the aid aidof to be be made made with Seltzer-water to allow Seltzer-water siphons allow Some siphons Sorne sparklets. called sparklets. capsules called capsules 843 843

jug

Water jug Waler (early seventeenth century) (early sevenleenth cen 1ury)

basin Sugar basin Sugar (Picasso,1740) (Picasso, 1740)

Wine jug Winejug (earlysevenleenlb seventeenth cenlury) century) (early

Sugar casIer caster Sugar (latesevenleenlh seventeenth cenlury) century) (laIe

Ewer Ewer (earlyeighleenlh eighteenthcenlury) century) (early

Sauceboat Sauceboal (Depris, 1723) 1723) (Depris,

Coffee Colfee pot pol (Germain, (Germain, 1750) 1750)

Tray (Germain, 1756) (Germain,

Tureen Tureen (Joubert,1761) (Joubert, 1761)

Teapot TeapOI (Germain, 1750) 1750) (Germain,

TeapOI Teapot (Germain, laIe (Germain, late eigbleenlh eighteenth century) century)

Cooler for gJasses (1790)

TABLE SILVER

844

Soup Soup tureen tureen (Daurat) (Daurat)

Plate and and dishes disbes (Daurat) (Daurat) Plate

(Daurat) and ebony ebony (Daurat) in sil silver Tea service service in Tea ver and

Coffee (Christofle) and tea tea service service (Cbristoffe) Coffee and

Modern (Kollar) (Christofle)(Kollar) "Como"(Cbristofle) Modernsilverware silverware"Como" MODERN SILVERWARE MODERNSILVERWARE

845 845

SIRLOIN SIRLOIN Skateauaubeurre beurrenoisette. noisette. RAIE RArEAU AUBEURRE BEuRR-ENOISETTE NoTsETTE - Skate Preparedlike likeSalt Saltcod (seeCOD), codwith withnoisette noisette butter butter(see COD),using Prepared using skatecooked cooke dinincourt-bouillon. c our t - bouillon. skate yarioussauces. Boiled skate skate with withvarious sauces. RAIE RArEBOUILLIE, BourLLrE, AVEC Boiled AVEc sAUcEsDIVERSES DrvERsEs - - Cook Cookthe theskate skateinincourt-bouillon. court-bouillon. Drain. SAUCES Drain. Garnishwith parsley.Serve withfresh freshparsley. Servewith withititone oneof Garnish ofthe thesauces sauces (Bdtarde sauce, suitable for forboiled boiledfish, fish,(Bâtarde sauce, Cream suitable Creamsauce, sauce.HollanHollandaisesauce, sauce,etc., etc.,see SAUCE). see SAUCE). daise Friedskate. skate. RAIE RArEFRITE FRrrE- - Skin Skinsmall smallskate. skate.Cut Cutininchunks, Fried chunks, or, ifif they theyare arevery very small, small, leave leave them them whole. whole.Soak or, Soakinincold, cold, boiled milk. milk. Drain Drain and andflour flour them themlightly. lightly.Fry Fryinin deep boiled deep smoking fat. fat. Drain, Drain, dry, dry,season seasonwith garnishwith with salt, salt,and andgarnish smoking with parsley and fried parsley and lemon. lemon. fried gratin. FAIE Skate au au gratin. FArE AU AUGRATIN GRATTN - - Prepared Prepared with Skate withthe thewings wings of small smallskates. skates. Proceed Proceed inin the thesame same way gratin of wayas asfor forSole Sole au augratin (see SOLE.) SOLE.) (see Jelliedskate. skate. RAIE RalrÀALA r.c,GELÉE cEr-fE - - Poach Poach the the wings JelUed wings of ofskate skateinin fish stock with white stock with whitewine. wine.Let Let them them cool fish inthis cool in this liquor. liquor.Drain Drain jelly from and set set on on aaserving serving dish. dish. Make Make aspic and aspic jelly the cooking from the cooking liquor, clarify pour over clarify itit and and pour (See JELLY.) Iiquor, over the the skate. skate. (See JELLY.) Skate Iiver. liver. FOIE rorn DE DE RAIE The liver RArE -- The liver of Skate skate isisvery very tasty. ofskate tasty.ItIt poached with with the the skate skate and and served isis poached served with with it. it. can also also be be made made into into fritters. fritters. Poach pieces of ItIt can Poach pieces of skate skateliver, liver, juice and steep in in oil, oil, lemon lemon juice parsley, dip steep and parsley, dip in in butter, butter, and and deepdeepfry in in boiling boiling fat. fat. fry Skate liver liver can can be be served served in in shells, Skate shells, scooped-out scooped-out breadcrust, breadcrust, or cooked cooked in in tarts pAtes. tarts and and pâtes. or Skate Iiver liver crofites. Skate croiltes. CROÛTE cno0rE AU AU FOIE ForE DE DE RAIE RArE -- Fill Fill hollow hollow crusts of of fried fried bread bread with with skate crusts skate liver, liver, cooked cooked in in aa courtcourtbouillon and and sliced. sliced. Coat bouillon Coat with (see SAUCE), with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE), grated cheese, cover with with grated coyer cheese, sprinkle sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. Skate Iiver liver fritters. Skate fritters. BEIGNETS BETcNETs DE DE FOIE ForE DE DE RAIE RArE -- Poach Poach skate skate liver in in white white wine. wine. Allow liver Allow to to cool. cool. Cut into slices Cut into slices and and juice, chopped marinate in marinate in oil, oil, Iemon lemon juice, parsley, salt chopped parsley, salt and and pepper. Dip Dip in pepper. in light light batter batter and and fry fry in in smoking smoking fat. fat. Drain, Drain, season with salt, garnish with salt, and season and garnish with fried parsley and fried parsley and lemon. lemon. meuniire. RAIE Skate ài la meunière. RArE À A LA r,q MEUNIÈRE MeuMiRE -- Use Use the the wings wings of of small skates in small in the the same (see same way way as as for for Sole Sole àd la la meunière meuniire (see SOLE). SOLE).

phot. Nicolas) (In Carpe. Modern siphons siphons (La Carpe. Phot. Nicolas) Modem

joint incJudes SIRLOIN. ALOYAU ALoyAU -- This This joint includes the the lumbar region, region, SIRLOIN. starting from from the the last last rib rib down down to to and and incJuding including the part the top part starting pelvic basin of the (sacrum). The the pelvic basin (sacrum). The different different parts parts are: are: fillet, fillet, of sirloin and and rump rump steak. steak. sirloin Sirloin, whole or or divided divided transversally transversally into pieces of into pieces of Sirloin,whole varying weight, is is roasted roasted or braised. varying weight, braised. When served served as as aa roast, roast, it it is is treated treated as contrefilet contrefilel or ribs of of When beef. beef. All sirloin, whole, or cut into Ail recipes recipes for for the the preparation preparation of sirloin, pieces, under BEEF. BEEF. pieces, will will be be found foundunder Tip sirloin. BAVETTE The lateral of the Tip of of sirloin. BAVETTE - The la~eral abdominal wall of ox grade of second grade meat suitable for for pot-au-feu ofmeat ox which which gives gives aa second and ragottts. BEEF.) and ragoûts. This This cut cut also makes makes tasty tasty steaks. (See (See BEEF.)

SKEWER. BROCHETTE SKEWER. ver or BRocHErrE -- Small Small spit, spit, made made of sil silver or other other metal and metal bstances sometimes of wood, and sometimes wood, on on which various su substances can be threaded threaded before being grilled or or fried. Preparations cooked cooked on on skewers are are calJed called brochettes in in French. Thus we have: have: Brochette Brochette of of chicken livers, Brochette Brochette of of lamb' lamb'ss sweetbreads, sweetbreads, Brochette Brochette of of kidneys, kidneys, etc. etc.

SKATE SKATE or or RAY, RAY, RArE RAIE -- Name of of flat scaleless scaleless fish, flattened vertically, vertically, characterised characterised by the development of pectoral fins in wings, with ofwings, with aa long long and relatively relatively thick thick tail. in the the form form of The The skin skin of of the the skate is is covered with a a viscous viscous coating which which continues continues to to re-form re-form itself itself for fof l0 10 hours after death, death, so that that itit isis possible possible by by wiping wiping the the fish with with aa cloth cJoth and observing whether whether or or not not the the coating coating re-forms re-forms to to judge judge how fresh it is. The The skate skate is is the the only only fish fish which which gains from being slightly slightly 'high', 'high', though though this this should shouJd not not be be allowed to get to the point where where the the smell smell alters. alters. The The flesh fiesh of of the the skate skate is is less less digestible than than that that of of white white fish; the liver liver isis sought sought after after by by some sorne connoisseurs. connoisseurs. fish; the In In England, England, Belgium Belgium and and Holland Bolland the the skate skate is is found found in in the the shops shops already already skinned. skinned. To To cook cook skate. skate. Cut Cut up up the the skate skate in in chunks chunks or or divide divide itit into into the the two two wings. wings. Put Put the the pieces pieces into into aa saute sauté pan pan and and cover coyer with with water water with with 22 dl. dl. (+ (j- pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) wine wine vinegar vinegar to to each each litre litre (quart) (quart) of of water water seasoned seasoned with with salt. salt. Bring Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, skim, reduce and gently gently poach poach the the fish. fish. reduce heat heat and Drain. Drain. Remove Remove the the skin skin from from both both sides. sides. Serve Serve according according to to recipe. recipe. Skate Skate au au bewre beurre noir. noir. n.lre RAIE AU AU BEURRE BEURRE NorR NOIR -- Proceed Proceed with with skate skate cooked cooked in in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drained drained and and set set on on aa serving serving dish dish the the same same as as Salt Salt cod codwith with brown brown butter butter (see (see COD). COD).

Whole skate Whole and wing wingof and of skate skate

846 846

SLAUGHTER HOUSE HOUSE (See (See OFFAL OFFAL or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS, MEATS, Calf's Calf's kidneys kidneys on on skewers skewers;; CHICKEN, CHICKEN, Chicken Chicken brochettes.) brochettes.)

SKIM. SKIM. fcnflcn, ÉCRÉMER, fcuunn, ÉCUMER, o6pouttl-BnDÉPOUILLER - To To skim skim cream cream from from milk milk is is expressed expressed in in French French by by the the word word icrtmer. écrémer. To To remove remove with with aa spoon spoon or skimmer skimmer the the scum scum which which rises rises to to the the surface surface ragotttisexpressed of of aa stock, stock, sauce sauce or or ragoût is expressed by by the the words,tcumer words écumer or or ddpouiller. dépouiller.

Egyptian times Slaughtering an Slaughtering an ox ox in in Egyplian limes

the animais animals slaughter, the a prolonged agony. Immediately Immediately after slaughter,

(this time comtime comand undergo must at once once be must at be viscerated viscerated and undergo (this

qualified inspector, inspector, at at pulsory) inspection by pulsory) post-mortem post-mortem inspection by aa qualified large towns. houses of of large slaughter houses least in the slaughter towns. can be slaughtering can law says says that that slaughtering Britain, the the law In Great Great Britain, In be of complete complete hours of resting and 48 hours and24 hours of resting carried out after 48 24 hours must be be all animais animals must that ail Regulations demand demand that fasting. Regulations fasting. in the made in the case case the only exception exception being stunned humanely, the being made severing of of where the the severing butchers where or Mohammedan butchers of kosher or postBoth anteante- and and postis not not recommended. recommended. Both the medulla medulla is the inspections are compulsory. mortem inspections is percentage of of the the slaughtering slaughtering is In the high percentage U.S.A., aa high the U.S.A., In packing and packing slaughtering and few very very large large slaughtering in aa few centralised in centralised Departthe Departis exercised by the rigid control control is exercised by houses, over over which rigid houses, post-mortem ininand post-mortem ante- and through antement of Agriculture through of Agriculture ment stunned before before Every animal animal isis stunned all animais. animals. Every spection of of ail spection local law for for local is responsible responsible by by law Each state state is butchering. Each butchering. Department of of Health. slaughter houses under the Department slaughter

(Deftfl/erin. Phot. Larousse) Skimmer (Dehillerin. Skimmer Larousse)

Ecuuonr SKIMMER. ÉCUMOIRE slUmming. skimming.

perforated spoon, used for spoon, used Flat perforated - Flat

-

esnrroln SLAUGHTER HOUSE. ABATTOIR SLAUGHTER for the market. kill animais animals for butchers kill butchers

peeu -- The skin and SKIN. PEAU skin forms one-fifth of butcher's meat and (except for for the the oxtail oxtail and for food food (except is normally used used for is not not normally winged pig, of and of winged of poultry and muzzle). muzzle). The skin skin of sucking pig, is oily oily and has game is some aquatic aquatic birds is game of sorne is eaten. The skin of eaten. The off should, therefore, be taken off. an taste; it should, an unpleasant unpleasant taste; valuable ferments and vitamins, The fruit contains contains valuable The skin skin of of fruit peeled or or be peeled impurities, itit should should be to impurities, but, being exposed exposed to but, being carefully washed. washed.

-

-

where Establishment where Establishment

In of Chicago. Chicago. In houses, like those those of slaughter houses, are model slaughter There are public in public except in be slaughtered slaughtered except cannot be large cities, cities, animais animals cannot large postprovide for reliable anteante- and and postfor reliable which provide slaughter houses houses which slaughter privately in the impossible in the privately which isis impossible inspection, which mortem inspection, mortem in many in there are are still still too too many of which which there houses, of owned slaughter slaughter houses, owned the country. the consists of: of : slaughter house house consists A modern modern slaughter A lit, well well aired, aired, weil well equipped equipped hall, weil well lit, slaughter hall, A common common slaughter A in which which each each butcher butcher of meat, meat, in transport of for the the washing washing and and transport for perform his given sufficient his work. work. floor space space to to perform sufficient floor isis given preceded by by aa cold cold may not not be be preceded which may may or or may A refrigerator, refrigerator, which A salesroom. room, used used as as aa salesroom. room, the animais animals pens for where the for the the livestock, livestock, where Lairages and and pens Lairages to short walk walk to they have have only only aa short from where where they rail and and from arrive by rail arriveby slaughter hall. hall. the main main slaughter the the premises for for washing washing and and cleaning cleaning the shop, with with premises A tripe tripe shop, A viscera. viscera. laboratory. with aa well-equipped well-equipped laboratory. inspection service service with An inspection An of of aa building building of house consists consists of slaughter house industrial slaughter An industrial An the top top ftoor, floor, are slaughtered slaughtered on on the The animais animals are several storeys. storeys. The several carcasefoot; from from there there the the carcaseon foot; which they have access access on to which they have to (blood, tallow, tallow, hand, and and the the by-products by-products (blood, the one one hand, meat on on the meat are taken taken scraps) on on the the other, other, are offals and and scraps) hide and and various various offals hide chutes on on floors by by means means of of chutes lower ftoors down to departments on on lower to departments down rails. rails. in one one specialise in the workers workers each each specialise slaughter houses houses the In these these slaughter In hands of passes through of sorne some through the the hands carcase passes work. AA carcase type of of work. type increase of of output output since since itit to increase This contributes contributes to fifty specialists. specialists. This fifty

ground from ground the sIUn skin from To rem remove SKINNING. ove the oEpouIlI-Bn -- To SKINNING. DÉPOUILLER

(or rabbit). game, e.g. rabbit). game, hare (or e.g. skinning skinning aa hare they when they to be be skinned skinned when said to Eels eels are are also also said Eels and conger conger eels are for cooking. cooking. are stripped stripped for

for the the mushmushname for Popular name SKIRRET. cIRoLLE -- Popular SKIRRET. GIROLE, cIRoLE, GIROLLE (See chanterelle. (See as chanterelle. known also also as room which isis known room which MUSHROOMS.) MUSHROOMS.)

killing the the of killing The methods methods of SLAUGHTER. .tsarA.cn -- The SLAUGHTER. ABATAGE

and on the the appearance appearance and influence on animais animals have have aa considerable considerable influence according quality of vary, however, however, according meat. They They vary, the of meat. keeping quality the keeping slaughkind of of animal animal slaughand the the kind to type of establishment and to the the type of establishment tered. tered. preceded by an by an should be be preceded which should In France, slaughtering, In France, slaughtering, which the hoof, hoof, on the livestock animal animal on ante-mortem of the the livestock inspection of ante-mortem inspection period of several rest of of several of rest should after aa period out only only after should be be carried carried out fatigue and and ending ending from fatigue days, to recover recover from animals to days, allowing allowing the the animals rarely rules are are rarely different rules These different fasting. These with with aa day day of of complete complete fasting. being before being are bled bled before which are complied The animais animals which with. The complied with. quality and higher keeping keeping give aa meat and aa higher stunned of better better quality meat of stunned give suffering of of will avoid avoid the the suffering quality. quality. The medulla wiU The cutting of the the medulla cutting of 847 847

SLEEVE-FISH SLEEVE-FISH ;:,:1l':'r11""'

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, ;""'

i' I lf

."

Ct t*..4

' ,.

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Slaughter house house La La Villelle: Villette: de-boning de-boning the (piol. X) the animaIs animals (Phol. X) Slaughter

possible to is possible to slaughter slaughter up up to to 60 60 oxen oxen an hour, thus lowering lowering is the manufacturing manufacturing cost cost considerably. considerably. Inspection Inspection is provided is provided the and ail all the work is is done done in in hygienic hygienic conditions. conditions. and the work The carcases carcases are are scrubbed, scrubbed, washed washed in at 18°C. l8oC. The in hot hot water at (65"F.), from from which which they they are are sent sent to refrigerator after (65°F.), to the the refrigerator having from 16 16 to 24 hours to 24 hours in in pre-refrigeration pre-refrigeration in the having passed passed from hanging rooms. rooms. hanging industrial slaughter These industrial slaughter houses generally equipped houses are generally These with installations which go on on with with various various installations which enable work to to go processing and and canning canning of processing of meat. meat.

SLEBVE-FISH. sNconNEr SLEEVE-FISH. ENCORNET amary. (q.v.). amary. (q.v.).

-

-

(see BEEF), can be served served with various garnishes Tournedos (see and sauces.

SMELL. ODORAT oDoRAr -- The The sense sense of smell smell is active not not only SMELL. is active before a meal is taken, but also during the meal. The aroma parts of released by fragrant parts of the food is is inhaled the food inhaled and released by fragrant penetrates into the back-throat chambers. back-throat and nasal chambers. penetra tes into It has been proved by experience experience that smell smell brings about It the loosening loosening of ofgastric secretion. In fact a strong secretion of gastric secretion. strong secretion gastric juices can be about by simply inhaling gastric juices can be brought brought about by simply fragrant steam, steam, provided provided it it comes cornes from from aa nourishing substance such as meat bouillon. It can therefore be said sa id that that the of weil well cooked food aids the smell smell of the digestion.

Common name of the Common name of the cal-

so called SMELT. fpnnuN ÉPERLAN - This fish, fish, says says Rondelet, is is so called (6perlan (éperlan - pearly pearly fish) fish) 'for 'for its its beautiful, pure pure whiteness, whiteness, comparable with that of the pearl'. The smelt is one of of the most of all ail freshwater freshwater fish. fish. It It is is classed c1assed as as a most delicate delicate of freshwater fish fish although it it lives in the sea, sea, because, because, like a good many many other migratory fish, fish, it it spawns spawns in fresh water. Nevertheless, run up up river river beyond beyond the tideJine. tide-line. Nevertheless, smelts smelts seldom seldom run Thus in the Seine, where where this fish is now now much less less common common than than itit used to to be, smelts smelts are are seldom seldom found found beyond beyond the the Martet Martet weir weir near near Elbeuf. The greatest greatest abundance abundance of of smelts smelts is to to be be found near near Caudebec. Caudebec, and and it is is for for this this reason reason that that there there are three on the the civic civic arms arms of of this this French French town. town. Smelts Smelts are three smelts smelts on also fairly fairly plentiful plentiful around around La Mailleraye Mailleraye and and Villequier. Villequier. These February These tiny tiny fish fish usually usually migrate migrate up up river river between between February 20th and March March l5th 15th and this this is is also also the the best best season for for catching catching them. them. They They are, are, however, however, to to be be found found inthese in these waters waters all though less less abundantly abundantly than than during the the ail the the year year round, round, though spring spring run. run. Freshly strong smell, smell, similar similar to to that that of Freshly caught caught smelts smelts have have aa strong the the violet. violet. This This little little fish fish is is most most delicate delicate in in flavour f1.avour and and fried fried smelts smelts are are regarded regarded as as one one of of the the finest finest of of all ail fish fish dishes. dishes. Method Method of ofpreparation. preparation. Gut Gut and and wash wash the the smelts, smelts, leaving leaving them them in in water water for for as as short short aa time time as as possible. possible. Dry Dry them them and and proceed proceed according according to to the the recipe. recipe. Smelts Smelts ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. fprRuNs ÉPERLANS AÀ r',lNGLAlsr L'ANGLAISE -- Slit Slit the the smelts smelts along along the the back. back. Open Open out out gently. gently. Dip Dip in in egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and fry fry in in clarified c1arified butter. butter.

SLIMNESS. MAIGREUR MATcREUR SUMNESS. - Slimness, Slimness, which is is compatible compatible with perfect Some perfect health, health, should should not not be be confused confused with with emaciation. Sorne persons they eat do not not put put on on weight, even even ififthey persons remain remain thin thin and and do a a

lot. lot.

SLMR. Thin slice SLIVER. rtcnr LÈCHE -- Thin slice of of bread bread or or meat. meat. SLOE. SLOE. pRUNELLE PRUNELLE - Fruit Fruit of of the the sloe sloe tree, tree, also called the blackthorn, blackthorn, aa tree tree found found all ail over over Europe. The The sloe, sloe, a a tiny tiny plum, plum, dark dark blue blue in in colour, colour, is is scarcely scarcely eatable, f1.esh being being very very sour sour and and sharp sharp tasting. tasting. eatable, its its flesh In is aa cultivated cultivated sloe sloe which which is is used used In the the Haute-Sa6ne, Haute-Saône, there there is jams. At mainly for making makingjams. At Angers Angers a much much mainly in in distilling, distilling, and and for esteemed made from from sloes. sloes. esteemed liqueur liqueur isis made Sloes Sloes boiled boiled in in red red wine wine have have aa very very pleasant pleasant flavour f1.avour and and are are aa very very effective effective cure cure for for dysentery. dysentery. Sloes Sloes may may also also be be used used to to make make vinegar vinegar and and wine. wine. SMALLAGE. SMALLAGE. ,q,cHs ACHE DEs DES MARATS MARAIS -- Wild Wild plant plant (wild (wild celery) celery) which which has has been been replaced replaced in in cookery cookery by by cultivated cultivated celery. celery. It It was was used used in in cookery cookery by by the the Romans. Romans. This This plant plant can can be be used used as as aa salad. salado

SMALL SMALL FILLETS. FILLETS. pErrrs PETITS FrLErs FILETS -- Term Terrn applied applied to to little !ittle

round round slices slices offillet of fiUet ofbeeftaken of beef taken from from the the top top or or bottom bottom end end of of the the fillet fiJlet or or tenderloin. tenderloin. Small Small fillets fiUets are are cut cut into into pieces pieces weighing weighing from from 100 100 to to 125 125 g. g. (a (4 b to at 4!- oz.). oz.). They They are are grilled grilled or or fried fried in in butter butter and, and, like Iike beef beef 848 848

SNAIL SNAIL meat meat and and fish. fish . Woodsmoke Woodsmoke is is generally generally used used because because of of its its drying drying and and sterilising steriJising properties. properties. (See (See PRESERVATION PRESERVATION OF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) Sides Sides of of bpef, beef, especially especially rib rib and and brisket, brisket, hams barns and and other otber cuts cuts of of pork, pork, sausages, sausages, poultry poultry (goose (goose in in particular) particular) and and certain certain fish fish (herrings, (herrings, salmon, salmon, eels, eels, etc.), etc.), and and some sorne shellfish, shellfish, can can all ail be be smoked. smoked. Before soaked in in pickling pickJing brine. brine. Before smoking, smoking, all ail meat meat must must be be soaked After After itit has has been been thoroughly thoroughly wiped wiped and and dried, dried, itit is is hung hung in in aa large too near near the the fire, fire, so so that that it it may may be be dried dried large chimney, not not too seal the right right through. through. If If the the heat heat were were too too great, great, it it would would seal the same meat meat and prevent prevent the smoke smoke from from penetrating. penetrating. For For the the same reason, reason, the the meat meat is is very very lightly lightly smoked smoked to to begin begin with. with. Some Sorne fish, such such as as herrings, herrings, are are smoked smoked without without previous previous (oak, soaking. To To get get a a suitable suitable smoke, smoke, hardwood hardwood is is used used (oak, Green wood wood of aa resinous hornbeam), rather rather than wood wood of resinous type. type. Green is often often wood is gives gives out more more smoke smoke than than dry dry wood. wood. Aromatic Aromatic wood such asjuniper as juniper smoke, such to the an extra added to to give give an extra fragrance fragrance to the smoke, is though this this is Sometimes, though with its its berries, berries, rosemary, laurel. laure!. Sometimes, (liquorice, cloyes, etc.). cloves, etc.). added (liquorice, are also added spices are less less common, spices to from time time to meat from position of smoking meat the smoking of the the position Change the The impregnated. The parts may be thoroughly impregnated. all parts time, so that ail be thoroughly process varies the with tbe varies with the process complete the needed to complete of time needed length of by speeded up up by can be be speeded fish. Smoking Smoking can or fish. meat or the meat size of of the size meat. into the the meat. with spices spices into pickling brine flavoured with injecting pickling in the the used in are used chambers are of smoking smoking chambers Various types types of Various be smoking boxes boxeswhichcan are smoking Some are of foodstuffs. Sorne smoking of which can be porkin large large porkused in Others, used kitchens. Others, in household household kitchens. used in used They constructed. They are elaborately constructed. establishments, are butchers' establishments, smoke, the smoke, which the through which several chambers chambers through of several consist of consist ground or on on the the ground in the the basement or from aa wood fire in coming from in the the an out outlet passes, escaping through an escaping through floor of of the building, building, passes, floor let in last cham chamber. of the last ceiling of ceiling ber.

To To serve, serve, pour pour over over them them half-melted half-melted Maitre Maître d'hitel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). bullers).

Smeltsen enescabiche. escabèche. fpenrA,Ns ÉPERLANS eN EN rsclniclfi ESCABÈCHE -- See See HORSHORSSmelts variousfishes. D'ŒUVRE, Cold Coldhors-d'euvre, hors-d'œuvre, Escabbche Escabèche of ofvariousfishes. D'(EUVRE, Fried smelts. smelts. EpeRrlNs ÉPERLANS FRITS FRITS -- Dip Dip the the smelts smelts in in salted salted milk milk Fried and flour. fiour. Shake Shake offexcess off excess flour flour and and plunge plunge into into deep deep hot hot fat. fat. and

Drain. Dry Dry in in aa cloth. clotho Season Season with with very very dry dry table table salt' salt. Drain. Arrange in in aa clump clump with with fried fried parsley parsley and and lemon. lemon. Arrange Fried smeltsi, smelts, skewered. skewered. fprnua,Ns ÉPERLANS FRITS FRITS EN EN BRocHETTES BROCHETTES -Fried Impale the the smelts smelts on on metal metal skewers, skewers, 66 to to each each skewer, skewer, and and Impale deep-fry as as indicated indicated in in the the previous previous recipe. recipe. deep-fry Smelts au au gratin. gratin. EpnnuNs ÉPERLANS AU AU cRATIN GRA TIN -- Arrange Arrange the the smelts smelts Smelts in aa long long ovenware ovenware dish, dish, buttered buttered and lined lined with with chopped in shallots which which have have been been cooked cooked in in white white wine wine till till the the liquid liquid is is shallots reduced to to a a coating coating in in the the pan. pan . Put Put a a small small cooked reduced mushroom on on top top of of each each smelt. smelt. Surround Surround with finely sliced mushroom mushrooms. Mask Mask with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). mushrooms. Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pour Pour on melted butter. Cook Cook in Sprinkle the oven oyen and and brown. brown. the ÉPERLANS crurI.ss GRILLÉS - Slit Sht the the smelts along along the Grilled smelts. smelts. EprnraNs Grilled the bone. bone. Season Season and flour. fIour. Baste Baste with with melted back ..Take out the back.,Take butter and grill. gril!. butter Serve with Gamish with fresh fresh parsley parsley and slices slices of lemon. Serve Garnish ot butters) Maître dd'hôtel BUTTER, Compound ni) or Compound butte h\tel butter (see BUTTER, Maitre sorne other other sauce sauce suitable suitable for grilled fish. some I'INGLAISE GriUed smelts smelts ià I'anglaise. l'anglaise. EpenI-A,Ns ÉPERLANS GRILLÉS cRlrrfs AÀ L'ANGLAISEGrilled back and smelts. Slit them lengthwise along the the back Clean the smelts. gently. take out the the bone. Open them out gentJy. Open them take salt and and Pour melted melted butter butter over them. Season with salt Season with over them. Pour pepper and dust with fresh breadcrumbs. Grill fairly cayenne pepper slowly. during cooking, and serve Turn the smelts over once during slowly. Tum with half-melted Maître Comdhbtel butter (see BUTTER, ComMattre d'hôtel pound butters). pound butters). It It may seem difficult to grill such a small fish as as the smelt. It small fisb grid are pan and is grill pan are and grid provided that that the the grill is simple enough enough provided perfectly greased with Some hardware with oil. oil. Sorne perfectly clean well greased and weil clean and stores sell grills especially designed smelts. designed for smelts. See Cold l't.qnINfs -- See EprnllNs MARINÉS smelts. ÉPERLANS of smelts. marinade of Cold marinade HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Sme I t s in in marinade. mar inade. hor s - d' euv r e, Smelts HORS-D'(EUVRE, Cold C o ld hors-d'œuvre, Smelts Clean the the o'6Pnnul,Ns -- Clean BRocHETTEs D'ÉPERLANS Smelts on on skewers. skewers. BROCHETTES smelts and skewers, metal skewers, the eyes eyes on on metal through the them through and thread thread them allowing per skewer. in milk. milk. Soak in skewer. Soak smelts per l0 small small smelts to 10 allowing 88 to Dredge fat. Deep-fry in in sizzling sizzling fat. flour. Deep-fry Dredge lightly lightly with flour. Drain, very dry dry salt. salt. with fine fine very sprinkle with cloth and and sprinkle Drain, dry dry on on aa cloth Garnish lemon. parsley and of lemon. and halves halves of with fried fried parsley Garnish with SMOKlNG. SMOKING.

gastropod for aa land land gastropod name for Common name EscARGor -- Common SNAIL. ESCARGOT SNAlL. pized as far back as Roman Roman food as as far back as as food It was highly prized mollusc. It was highly mollusc. have been been said to to have snails isis said fattening snails The art art of of fattening times. The times. Fulvius Lupinus. Lupinus. named Fulvius Roman named by aa Roman discovered by discovered popular. As there As there the most most popular. snail isis the In France, France, the the vineyard vineyard snail In variety, another variety, meet ail all demands demands another to meet not enougb of these to are not enough ofthese are used.. petit-gris ofsouthern France isis also also used of southern France the petit-gris the poisoning, snails deprived of of snails must must be be deprived the risk risk of of poisoning, To avoid avoid the To may have have for they they may they are are eaten, eaten, for some time time before before they for sorne food for food poisonous to to but poisonous plants hannless themselves but to themselves harmless to fed on on plants fed snails which which to eat eat snails advisable only only to Furthermore, itit isis advisable humans. Furthermore, humans. hibernate. shells to to hibernate. into their their shells themselves into have sealed sealed themselves have food point ofview, has little little food snails'flesh of view, snails' nutritional point From aa nutritional From flesh has

for process used especially for used especially Preserving process - Preserving

FUMAGE FUMAGE -

(Debillot.Phot. Larousse) Phot.Larousse) smelts(Debi/lot. Friedsmelts Fri~

Skewering (Lar o us se) smel Is(Larousse) Skeweringsmelts

849 849

SNIPE SNIPE lower the the heat heat and and simmer simmer slowly slowlyfor for33hours. hours. Add Addtoto the lower the gum arabic broth30 30 g.g. (1(1 oz.) oz.) gum arabic dissolved glassof dissolvedininaaglass broth oftepid tepid water. Strain Strain through through muslin. muslin. water. Snails ài lala chablisienne. chablisienne. ESCARGOTS EscARGorsÀA LA u CHABLISIENNE cHABLTSENNE - Snails Proceed as as indicated indicated for forSnails Snailsàdlalabourguignonne, pouring bourguignonne, pouring Proceed into each each shell shell aa few fewdrops drops white white Chablis Chablis wine wine cooked cooked with inta with parsley, enriched choppedshallot shallot and and parsley, with meat enriched with chopped meat essence essenceand and seasoned. seasoned. Put the the snails snails back in the back in the shells shells and and seal Put seal with with Butter Butter for for (see BUTTER, snails, àdla la bourguignonne bourguignonne (see BUTTER, Compound snails, Compound butters). butters). Snails Comtesse Comtesse Riguidi. Riguidi. ESCARGOTS EscARcors COMTESSE Snails .RIGUIDI - coMTEssE.RrcurDr During the the season season when when snails snails are During are unobtainable, unobtainable, said said Grimod de de la la Reynière, Reynidre, cooks cooks sometimes sometimes amuse Grimod amuse themselves themselves palates by by cheating cheating our our palates by aa not not unpleasant by unpleasant imitation. imitation. AAvery very fine stuffing stuffing isis made game or made either either of fine of game or fish, fish, with with fillets fillets of of anchovy, nutmeg, nutmeg, fine fine spices, spices, fines anchovy, herbes, bound bound with with egg egg fines herbes, yolks. Snailshells Snail shells are are thoroughly thoroughly washed yolks. washed and and warmed. warmed. Each Each one is is filled filled with with the piping hot. the stuffing stuffing and and served one served piping hot. Here isis another another recipe recipe for for Mock Mock snails Here snails Comtesse Comtesse Riguidi. Riguidi. 'Put into into large large well well washed washed snai! 'Put snail shells shells little little balls balls of lambs' of lambs' sweetbread tossed tossed in in butter. sweetbread butter. Fill Fill up up the the shell shell with with aachicken chicken

Vineyard snail snail Vineyard

value and and isis rather rather indigestible. indigestible. However, However, itit does does contain contain aa value quantity of (calcium, large quantity of both both Vitamin Vitamin CC and mineral salts salts (calcium, and minerai large magnesium, etc.). etc.). magnesium, $aeils ltarlesienne. ESCARGOTS EScARGors ÀA L'ARLÉSIENNE r',lnrfsmNNE --'Warm Sn ails ài l'arlésienne. 'Warm aa pork in little diced diced pork in aa saucepan. saucepan. Sprinkle Sprinkl- with with flour flour and and little moisten with with aa bottle bottle of of white white wine. wine. Add prepared Add the the snails, snails, prepared moisten in advance advance as as follows: follows: in 'Take medium-sized medium-sized snails, snails, and and soak soak them them in in tepid tepid water. water. 'Take Next, blanch blanch them with with aa handful ofsalt. of salt. Next, 'Take them them out out of of their their shells shells and and drain. drain. Put Put them in the the them in 'Take garlic and plenty of with aa few few cloyes cloves of of gar!ic of herbs. herbs. and plenty saucepan with the boil boil and leave leave to to simmer simmer slowly. slowly. When When they they are are Bring to the ready, drain put them drain them them and and put them back back in in their their shells. shells. Add Add aa ready, glass of pinch of of Madeira Madeira and pepper. Put and aa pinch of cayenne cayenne pepper. Put the the glass snails in in the the sauce sauce and and stir. stir. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with aa !ittle little chopped chopped snails parsley and thejuice (A. Hélie's the juice of of a lemon.' lemon.' (A. Hdlie's recipe.) parsley Snails ài la la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. ESCARGOTS EscARcors ÀA LA LA Snails BoURGUTcNoNNE -- Scrape away chalky substance away the chalky substance sealing sealing BOURGUIGNONNE shells. Wash the snails in several several waters and soak for soak them for the shells. salt, vinegar and and aa pinch of flour. flour. Wash Wash 2 hours with coarse salt, them again in plenty of water and blanch them for 55 minutes in boiling water. Drain and and cool under running running water. water. Take Take the snails out of of their shells. Remove the black part at the end of the tail known as the cloaca. of in aa saucepan. Moisten with equal equal parts of Put the snails in of just coyer white wine and c1ear clear broth. The liquid should should just cover the the snails. Add carrots, onions, onions, shallots shallots and and aa large large bouquet Add carrots, snails. garni. Season (1 teaspoon) salt to every litre (quart) (quart) Season with 8 g. (I of stock. Simmer Simmer for 3 to 4 hours. Leave to cool in the stock. stock. of Boil the 30 minutes in in water with with soda soda the empty shells for for 30 Boil crystals added. Drain them, wash in cold water and dry. dry. Put inside ofbutter bourguignonne, about inside each shell a piece of butter àd la bourguignonne, the size of shells and se seal of a hazelnut. hazelnut. Put Put the snails in the shells al with Butter (see BUTTER, la bourguignonne snails, àd la bourguignonne (see BUTTER, ComButter for snails, pound pound butters). butters). Put little water water at the bottom Put the the filled shells shells in a dish with with a !ittle or Sprinkle with fresh breadcrumbs. or in a snail snail dish. Sprinkle breadcrumbs. Wann Warm in a hot hot oven oyen and and serve. serve. Snail Snail broth. broth. BourLLoN BOUILLON D'EscARGors D'ESCARGOTS - Soak Soak 24 24 snails thoroughly for Snails thoroughly as indicated in the the recipe for bourguigSnails à it la bourguignonne. Break the shells and and remove the snails. snails. (Do not dip them in boiling water as as this will wash away their natural gelatine.) (5f, gelatine.) Put Put them them in a saucepan saucepan and moisten moisten with with 331itres litres (5i pints, pints, 6f 61- pints) pints) water. water. Add Add I1 or 2 lettuces, a a handful of purslane purslane leaves 1eaves and a little salt. (A piece of calf calf's 's head can also also be be added.) added.) Skim. As As soon soon as the the broth broth is boiling boiling steadily,

Special pincers and SOecial snail snail pincers and fork fork (Larousse)

cream cream stuffing and and chopped chopped truffles truffies mixed mixed together. together. Put Put the the mock mock snails snails in in an an ovenware ovenware dish dish or or aa special special snail snail dish. dish. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and cook for aa few minutes in the the oven.' A popular popular variant variant of this delicate delicate dish dish consists in in fil1ing filling the the snail shells with cocks' kidneys kidneys cooked in white wine. pourerrn -- Soak Snails ài la poulette. poulette. ESCARGOTS EscARGors À .A. LA la POULETTE Soak the the snails in aa pan of boiling boiling water, with aa pinch of salt salt and and some some ashes. Boil for 55 minutes, take out the snails put them snails and put in them in courtcold water. water. Wash them with great care. Drain. Boil in aacourtpepper, thyme, bay bouillon with salt, salt, pepper, parsley for leaves and parsley bay leaves for li lj hours. Take the snails out of the court-bouillon and drain. Brown sorne some chopped onions. Moisten parts of Moisten with with equal equal parts of white wine and and water. When the !iquid liquid begins begins to boil, boil, add add aa little Allemande Allemande sauce little sauce (see SAUCE). Put in in the snails. snails. Leave Leave them for 5 to 7 minutes. Before serving, serving, blend in aa little best best quality butter, egg yolks and and a !ittle little lemon lemon juice. Add more pepper. salt and pepper.

SNIPE. s6cAssNn BÉCASSINE -- Migratory bird bearing bearing great SllIPE. Migratory bird great rerewoodcock, but only about semblance to the woodcock, semblance about half the the size size of of latter. the latter.

dish or Snail dish escargotière escargotiire (Dehil/erin. (Dehillerin. Phol. Larousse) Larousse) Phot.

lt can be be prepared in any way suitable for woodcock, but It woodcock, but snipe or the best method is roasting. In U.S.A. the the Wilson's Wilson's snipe or American snipe snipe is almost identical. identical. American BÉCASSINES EN EN CASSEROLE the Casserole of snipe. nEcessrNes Truss the cAssERorn -- Truss 850

SOFT ROE SOFT gtrven to commonly given to culsfcasslN -- Name commonly GREAT SNIPE. SNIPE. BÉCASSIN has distinctive white feathers blanc, a variety of snipe, which has on the tail. prepared in suitable for for snipe, snipe, mainly mainly way suitable It isis prepared in any any way It roasting.

served on aa bed bed ofice of ice SNOW. NEIGE NEIGE -- Certain cold dishes are served SNOW. grated ice is grater. This This grated is known as as neige. neige. grated with a special grater.

Line DE NEIGE -- Use aa spherical spherical mould. Line sourn DE SNOWBALL. SNOWBALL. BOULE ice cream. Fill with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured Mousse with chocolate ice (see ICE CREAMS AND diced crystalAND ICES) and and diced crystalmixture mixture (see ice is is tumed turned out, out, steeped in in Maraschino. When the ice lised fruit steeped (see CREAMS), put coyer cover it it entirely with Chantilly cream (see CREAMS), put entirely with Chantilly cream fluted nozzle. nozzle. through through a forcing bag with aa fluted Snipe Snipe

grouse also also SNOW Variety of of grouse SNOW PARTRIDGE. ARBENNE lnssr.rNE -- Variety partidge. They in the found in called They are are found the Valais called Tibetan Tibetan partridge. in Piedmont. Snow is (Switzerland), in in Savoy Savoy and and in Snow partridge is (q.v.). (q.v.) or partridge (q.v.). grouse (q.v.) treated like grouse

snipe, draw the heads round the round and and run run the the beaks through the legs. Coyer bacon. Put them into into a legs. Cover each with a rasher of fat bacon. metal or earthenware butter has been metal casserole in which sorne some butter been earthenware casserole baste with butter. Cook in ahot oven for for Season. and baste a hot oyen heated. Season, abourI2 fried in small croûton cro0ton fried about:I2 minutes. Put each bird on aa small

SOAKING. TREMPAGE TREMIAGE -- Immersion in in water, water, principally of SOAKlNG. of dried dried vegetables. Used Used also also to to describe describe the moistening of the moistening of (see BABA, SAVARIN). gdteaux with syrup sorne some gâteaux syrup (see SAVARIN).

butter. Sprinkle or 33 with aa tablespoon tablespoon brandy brandy and and 22 or butter. Sprinkle with

(Soup) - Country popular in SOBRONADE SOBRONADE (Soup)·Country soup, soup, very very popular in the the Pdrigord countryside. pork Périgord fresh and countryside. It is made with both fresh and salt salt pork in large dice, cut in vegetables: haricot dice, and and aa variety of haricot beans, ofvegetables: carrots, leeks, celery celery and root vegetables. vegetables. This This is is really really aa kind kind of potte. of potée.

tablespoons (3 or 4 tablespoons) tablespoons tablespoons) gamefumet. Croustade ln BÉCASSINES s6cAssrxes hufres. CROUSTADE cRousrADn DE Croustade of snipe with truffles. gratin AUX TRUFFES piece of àh gratin TRUFFEs -- Bone Bone the the snipe. Stuff with aa piece AUx forcemeat (see FORCEMEA T) about the size of FORCEMEAT) of aa small egg, forcemeat mixed with diced truffIes, truffies, well seasoned seasoned and sprinkled with a little brandy. Brown lightly in butter for aa few few moments. moments. little brandy. lightly in butter for Arrange FORCEMEAT) Arrange on aa bed bed of of Quenelleforcemeat Quenelleforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) made with game. Coyer slices of truffles, truffies, seasoned Cover with thin slices and flaky pastry. and sprinkled with aa little brandy. Cover with flaky brandy. Coyer Decorate the pieces of rolled-out with pieces rolled-out top of the the croustade with the top pastry cut in fancy shapes. Make aa hole in the middle. Brush with egg yolk and bake in aa hot oyen. croustade oven. Pour into the croustade

SODA-WATER SODA-WATER -- Effervescent Effervescent drink drink manufactured manufactured inindustrially_ dustrially. Soda-water, is highly charged Soda-water, which is charged with with carbonic carbonic gas, is is added fruit juices, whisky, whisky, etc. syrups, fruitjuices, etc. added to syrups, SOFT ROE. LAITANCE, The milt or sperm of male themale LAITANcE, LAITELAIrE-Themilt orsperm of the SOFTROE. fish, in fat fat and rich in It isis aa food food rich and fish, aa smooth, white white substance. substance. It phosphorus, and digested. and is easily easily digested. Preparation of soft roes roes Before they they are are cooked, cooked, soft of soft soft roes. roes. Before must be cleansed the little little blood blood in cold cold water water and and stripped stripped of of the cleansed in for aa short vessel that runs side. They They are are poached for short runs down down one one side. time in little water, water, lemonjuice lemon juice and and butter, in stock stock made made from from aa !ittle seasoned seasoned with salt. salt. purposes, soft For roes can lightly floured floured and and For sorne soft roes can be be lightly some purposes, preparation isis cal!ed fried This method called àd fried in very hot butter. This method of of preparation la served on on canapés, are served canapis, meuniire are la meunière. meunibre. Soft Soft roes roes àh la la meunière toast etc. in tartlets, toast or or in tartlets, barquettes, barquettes, etc. Soft DE CARPES ET fish. LAITANCES r,crrlNcEs DE cARpEs ET Soft roes roes of carp and and other other fish. of carp polssoNs - The perhaps the AUTRES the most roes of are perhaps most soft roes of carp carp are AUTREs POISSONS - The soft delicate Next in in order merit are are the the delicate of soft roes. roes. Next order of of merit of al! all edible edible soft roes roes of mackerel. of herring and and mackereJ. Soft fritters, in in in aa number number of of ways: ways: as as fritters, can be cooked in Soft roes can be cooked tartlets or in small vol-au-vent, as as hot hot canapis, in small vol-au-vent, or barquettes, barquettes, on on canapés, or as aa !ight light main main dish. dish. They They can can also also be be or cold cold hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre or or as used as garnish for fish. or poached fish. for braised or as aa garnish Soft Clean the the roes'ià l'anglaise. I'anglaise. LAITANCES LAITANcEs À A L'ANGLAISE l'lNcrltsr -- Clean Soft roes· soft in stock indicated roes. Poach Poach them for 22 minutes minutes in stock as as indicated soft roes. them for above. Dip them them in in egg and Drain and leave to to cool. cool. Dip egg and above. Drain and leave breadcrumbs. sides. Serve Serve Fry in in butter, on both both sides. browning on breadcrumbs. Fry butter, browning (see BUTTER, with BUTTER, ComComwith half-melted Maître Maitre d'hôtel dhitel butter butter (see pound pound butters) fluted haIf half slices slices of of surrounded by by fluted top, surrounded butters) on on top, lemon. lemon. Soft Poach roes in LAITANcES EN EN BARQUETTES BAReuErrBs -- Poach Soft roes in barquettes. LAITANCES the place in in indicated above. Drain and and place the soft soft roes roes in in stock stock as as indicated above. Drain baked barquettes filled with salpicon of with aasalpicon mushrooms blended blended of mushrooms barquettesfilled with (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on fish fish wth Velouté Veloutt or or Béchamel Btchamel sauce sauce (see stock. or other other white white sauce sauce stock. Spoon some Normande Normande sauce sauce or Spoon over over sorne based in aa very very hot stock. Brown Brown in hot oyen. oven. based on on fish fish stock. Soft BEURRE NOIR I. LAITANCES r.,lnAl.{cEs AU AU BEURRE Soft roes roes in in brown brown butter butter 1. NoIR -Poach with indicated above. above. Garnish Garnish with Poach the the soft soft roes roes in in stock stock as as indicated capers parsley. Pour Pour on little lemonjuice lemonjuice and and aa capers and on aa little and chopped chopped parsley.

(see aa few few tablespoons of down Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see of boiled boiled down SAUCE) based on aa concentrated SAUCE) based concentrated game stock. pAtf CHAUD Hot pAt6 Lucullus. on BÉCASSINES sfcA,ssnres Lucullus. PÂTÉ Hot snipe cHAUD DE snipe pâté LUCULLUS Fine panadaforcemeat LUcuLLUs -- Bone 6 snipe. Stuffwlth Stuffwith a Fine (see T) mixed (see FORCEMEA its weight weight of mixed with with one-third of FORCEMEAT) one-third of its foie gras, as trail, chopped. well as as the birds' birds'trail, chopped. as weil foie Put aa layer of this laid out flat on on aa out fiat the snipe, snipe, laid this stuffing on the table, and gras and truffie in in the foie gras and aa piece of truffIe and aa piece of foie middle of form snipe in their original form of each bird. Reshape the snioe and sprinkle with aa few drops of brandy. Line pitts with pie pastry. Line an mould for for hot pâtés with pie an oval-shaped oval-shaped mould Coat layer of Fine Coat the the inside inside of the the mould mould with with aa layer Fine panada (See forcemeat mixed with àd gratinforcemeat, half and gratinforcemeat,half and half. half. (See forcemeat FORCEMEA T.) FORCEMEAT.) Put the stuffed snipe into the pdt6, packing them in tightly, the pâté, and forcemeat similar similar to to the and sealing them in with aa layer of forcemeat the one used pAft. Finish with aa layer of forcemeat forcemeat used for lining the pâté. and coyer piece of rolled-out rolled-out cover with aa rasher of fat bacon and aa piece pastry. Seal in cut in Seal and crimp crimp the edges. edges. Decorate with pastry cut fancy shapes. in the the middle middle of !id lid to to allow allow shapes. Make an an opening in steam to place on egg, place to escape. on aa baking escape. Brush with beaten egg, sheet sheet and in aa moderate oyen from 45 45 minutes minutes to to an an and bake bake in oven from hour. Remove the lid, cutting with aa knife knife ail all cutting itit carefully the pastry lid, carefully with around. around. Take off the the bacon rasher covering covering the the forcemeat. forcemeat. bacon rasher Unmould. Pour into the pAft aa ragoût ragofit of sliced truffIes truffies blended with with aa the pâté few game few tablespoons tablespoons Madeira-flavoured, Madeira-flavoured, concentrated concentrated game stock. pdt6. Heat in stock. Replace the pastry lid lid on Heat thoroughly thoroughly in on the the pâté. the the oyen. oven. This pâté pdti, when phti can also be when served cold. cold. Pour Pour into into the the pâté, be served it is is just warm, liquid aspic aspic jelly warn, aa few few tablespoons tablespoons cold cold but but liquid based game stock, based on game stock, and chilI. chill.

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SOFTENING, BLETTING SOFTENING, BLETTING (see BUTTER Compound few spoonfuls Brown butter (see few Compound butters). ters). II. r,nrraNcrs BEURRE NorR Soft roes in brown brown butter II. LAITANCES AU BEURRE NOIR -Arrange the soft roes roes on on aa dish, dish, and the cooked soft and garnish with few drops drops ofvinegar, of vinegar, and and aa few capers. Pour over them aa few brown butter butter in which 1I or tablespoons brown in which 2 tablespoons or 2 parsley have been fried. shredded parsley fish. rlrrlNcEs served with cold fish. LAITANCES FRoTDES FROIDES -Cold soft roes served juice. Leave them wine and lemon soft roes in Poach the soft in white wine lemonjuice. to cool in this stock. Drain, and dry them them in a cloth. Ifthey are to be as aa garnish for cold If they are be used used as fish, arrange cold fish, barquettes of thin thin pastry baked them in barquettes baked blind. Coyer Cover them with mayonnaise some other cold sauce. mayonnaise or sorne If the roes are to be used as as an ingredient If ingredient of a composite and salad, put them, drained and dried, on top of the salad and pepper. season with oil, vinegar or lemon season lemon juice, salt and pepper. croutons. LArrANcEs nN CROÛTES cno0rss -- See FISH, Soft roes on croutons. LAITANCES EN Fish roes on toast. LArrANcEs EN EN BEIGNETS BETcNETs -- Poach Soft roe fritters. LAITANCES Poach the soft roes as indicated above. Leave Leave them them to cool. cool. Put roes in in stock as indicated above. parsley. them in a marinade of oil, lemon lemon juice juice and chopped parsley. Dry. Dip them them in batter and deep-fry. parsley. Serve with fried parsley. Serve pouR GARNITURES garnish. LAITANCES Soft roes roes as as aa garnish. LArrANcEs POUR Soft cARNrruREs -Cleanse the soft roes in cold water. Put them in a casserole with few tablespoons tablespoons water, water, aa squeeze with aa few squeeze of lemon juice, a pinch and aa small knob of butter. butter. Bring them to the pinch of salt and boil and simmer simmer very very gently for 3 minutes. Soft roes in MAyoNNATsE DE LArrANcEs Soft LAITANCES -- Poach in mayonnaise. MAYONNAISE the soft roes in salt water. Drain and dry. salad Fill a sai ad bowl with aa mound of finely shredded lettuce seasoned with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper, and seasoned and drained. Place the soft roes on top. Cover with with mayonnaise. Surround with with quartered hardCoyer boiled eggs eggs and and lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Decorate boiled Decorate with with filIets fillets of anchovy and capers. meuniire. LAITANcES unuNdnn -- Season Soft roes ài la meunière. LAITANCES A À rl LA MEUNIÈRE the roes, roes, dip dip them flour and and fry fry in the them in in flour in butter. butter. Proceed thereafter as in recipe for Sole àd la meunière meunibre (see SOLE). Soft roes in in noisette butter. LArrANcEs Soft LAITANCES AU BEURRE NOISETTEBEURRE NoTSETTE Proceed as for Soft browned butter, without the capers So/l roes in browned and chopped parsley, and substituting .lfoisette and substituting butter for for and Noisette butter Brown butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). roes in shells à scallop sheDs d la normande. LAITANCES LAITANcEs EN Soft roes in scaDop la normande. coeuILLEs A drain the soft roes as COQUILLES À r,l LA NonulNDE NORMANDE -- Poach and drain

indicated above. Put them in scallop shells surrounded by a POTATOES) of Duchess Duchess potata border of potato (see POT ATOES) previously previously lightly poached and on top an oyster, poached browned in the oyen. oven. Place on drained, mushroom, aa teaspoon of shrimps and drained, aa cooked mushroom, (see SAUCE) mussels. Coyer with Normande SAUCE) and mussels. Normande sauce sauce (see Cover with of truffie. decorate each shell with a generous strip of decorate ,So/t roe tartlets. LAITANCES LArrANcEs EN CAISSES cArssEs -- Proceed Proceed as for Soft Soft roe Brown a handful roes àit la meunière. handful of Sewe in baked tartlets. Brown meunibre . Serve in the the cooking butter and and pour this this over over the breadcrumbs in juice and chopped parsley. chopped parsley. roes. Add lemon lemonjuice

Term used nrer, BLETTE -- Term SOFTENING, used to SOFTENING, BLETTING. BLET, (i.e. 'sleepiness') 'sleepiness') in certain define the state state of over ripeness (i.e. define preceding rotting. kinds of of fruit, preceding (medlars, persimmons) In the case of of sorne some species of of fruit (medlars, right state of the fruit does not attain the right of ripeness, i.e. become fruit (apples, edible, until it is is bletted. In the case case of other fruit pears, etc.), is aa sign or over over ripeness ripeness is sign of of the softening or pears, etc.), softening ofdecay. beginning of decay.

Flat fish, shape an oval, almost SOLE in shape SOLE -- Flat fish, in an elongated elongated oval, completely completely surrounded by fins and and covered covered with very small attached to the skin. skin. The colour colour of hard scale which are firmly attached which the the the sole is the skin varies varies according to the depth depth in which grey, but it is varies from from aa dark brown to pale grey, fished and fished and varies with blackish irregular markings. an olive brown with generally an The blind side of whitish in col colour. of the sole is whitish our. placed on eyes of the fish, placed right side (the brown The eyes on the right side) are small and rather far apart; the mouth is arched, the pointed, and has short short white teeth fine and jaw has teeth fine and pointed, and the the lower jaw barbels. barbels. considered the best of the flat The sole is considered fiat fish. fish. Its flesh is white, firm, and delicate and and is is easily from the detached from white, firm, and easily detached bones. It is very digestible. This sole, which is fished in most European waters waters but not American waters, waters, should American be confused with the fish known confused with should not be as lemon sole, which, though quite good to eat, is not to be as with the true sole. compared with they are prepared in a number ofways. Sole Sole can be prepared of ways. Whole, they poached, braised, fried, boiled, meuniire and and grilled. fried, boiled, poached, braised, àit la la meunière Filleted, they may be prepared Filleted, prepared in every way. given below Each of the recipes recipes for for whole whole soles soles given Each of the below is (l2to applicable to fish weighing from 350 to 400 g. (12 to 14 oz.), people. Soles of medium size should be enough to serve two people. used d la meunière used for frying, à meuniire or grilling, because these are usually served one to each guest.

To remove the skin from sole, near the tail eole. fust first make make an incision incision near

with the left hand Holding the sole down with the right hand, pull off off the skin with (Larousse) (Larousse)

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SOLE

- Made with salpicon of sole, truffies and mushrooms, bound with a brown or white sauce. Make aa salpicon salpicon of of BETcNETs DE SOLES sol-ns -- Make Beignets of sole. BEIGNETS Bind with with Velouté Veloutb or or sole, as as for for ordinary ordinary croquettes. croquettes. Bind sole, Btchamel SAUCE) and allow to cool. Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) into aa ball. and roll roll each each into into small small portions and baJ!. Dip Divide into fat. Serve in a mound, and into a light batter and fry in deep fat. (see garnish with parsley. Serve with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see with fried fried parsley. Serve with suitable for fried fish. SAUCE) or any sauce suitable __ ~~' dish fireproof dish which which has has on aa h_,, Sole Bercy 1I -- Put the sole on with chopped shallot shallot and and and sprinkled sprinkled with been been buttered and parsley. parsley. whitewine and tablespoons) white Moistenwith tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Moisten with 2 tablespoons wine and g. (! lt tablespoons) tablespoons) Scatter 20 g. oz., 11 lemon juice. Scatter a squeeze of lemon G oz., butter butter cut up into small pieces on top. glaze the to g1aze so as as to the Cook the sole in the oven, basting often so fish. sole in aa fireproof dish dish on on aa layer of of tr -- Put the sole Bercy II Sole Bercy in butter without be(~Orlllrlg becoming onions chopped on ions lightly cooked in sliced mushSurround with 44 trimmed, sliced too much coloured. Surround pint, l+ dl. dl.
Trim of the fillets before Trim the the fish to the the edge of before cooking. eooking. Soles trimmed in this way way appear smaller, but they are easier to it can serve. If the backbone baekbone is broken broken before cooking eookjng it can be removed removed before before serving. serving. American 'sole' is not the same family as the English The American Dover Dover sole, sole, and differs differs markedly markedly in texture. Lemon sole, dab, be used in the the following win ter flounder and grey sole can be winter recipes. l'américaine -- Split the sole on the side from which Sole ià I'am6ricaine Raise the fillets slightly slightly and break the skin has been removed. Raise of the backbone in two or three places. Season the backbone the Season the inside of fish. gently in a white wine wine fishfumet. Drain. Poach the sole very gently Surround à l'américaine Surround with aa Salpicon it I'amtricaine of lobster or spiny (see SALPICON). Put lobster (see slices of lobs lobster or spiny Put 22 slices ter or lobster wth Américaine Amtricaine sauce sauce (see lobster on top of the sole. Coat with SAUCE) concentrated,fumet and and butter butter have SAUCE) to which sorne some concentratedfumet been added. been This dish is often called Sole àit l'armoricaine, I'armoricaine, since many people think really be be d trunk that Lobster àd l'américaine should really I'arntricaine sbould

sot.Es SOLES

l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. Sole ài l'amiral -- Only very large soles with thick fillets are prepared in this Brill àd l'amiral under see Brill this way. For the recipes see

BRILL.

t

generally means a grilled sole Sole à I'anglaise -- This name generally i l'anglaise (see accompanied Maitre d'hôtel dhbtel butter (see accompanied by melted butter or Maître potatoes. It BUTTER, It can BUTTER, Compound and boiled boiled potatoes. Compound butters) and also be sole poached poached in salted water and and milk, accompanied accompanied potatoes. butter and boiled potatoes. by melted butter The same same name is applied applied to a sole boned when raw, coated in egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, cooked clarified butter and served inclarified cooked in with rathersoft rather soft maître maitre d'hôtel dh6tel butter. Sole à ir l'arlésienne l'arlesienne -- Poach the sole infumet. Garnish with very small tomatoes peeled and cooked in butter, and and sliced artichoke own juices, and and artichoke bottoms cooked in butter and their ownjuices, finished in aa !ittle little cream. To coat the sole, boil down the cooking Iiquor liquor and and add add aa little concentrated tomato pulp mixed mixed with little fish aspicjelly aspic jelly and concentrated butter and aa !ittle butter little grated garlic. Attereaux TTEREAUX DE I'ancienne. AATTEREAUx os SOLES Attereaux of sole ài l'ancienne. sorrs ÀA of sole L'ANCIENNE Season and fillet into 33 or 4 pieces. Season and seal seal L'ANcIENNE -- Cut each fiJlet butter. Thread them skewer, in butter. the pieces on on aa silver silver skewer, Thread the them in alternating the alternating them with sliced trufres and and mushrooms. Dip the skewers (see SAUCE). in egg into Villeroi sauce (see SAUCE). Coat Coat in egg and and skewers into Villeroi sauce breadcrumbs and fry in in clarified clarified butter. Garnish with with fried fried butter. Garnish and fry parsley and quarters of lemon. TTEREAUX DE Attereaux of sole àdr la la moderne. AATTEREAUX on SOLES sorEs À i LA r,a MODERNE in villeroi as above, but without dipping dipping in MoDERNE -- Prepare as sauce. (see SAUCE) SAUCE) or or other other Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce (see sauce. Serve suitable suitable sauce. Sole Cook the sole sole soLE AUX AUBERcINES -- Cook AUx AUBERGINES Sole with aubergines. SOLE in aubergines with slices slices of of aubergines Surround with in butter àit la la meunière. meunibre. Surround cooked parsley and and Sprinkle with chopped chopped parsley cooked with butter or oil. Sprinkle aa few in the hot hot butter butter in and pour over over the few drops of of lemon juice and which the fish was cooked. cooked. afume' over low heat. sole in inafumet over very low Alternatively, poach the sole Drain, in cooked in slices of of aubergines aubergines cooked Drain, wipe, and surround surround with slices butter. Coat with (see SAUCE). in aa SAUCE). Glaze Glaze in wine sauce sauce (see with White White wine hot oven. oven. The talian marrows (Italian marrows The sole sole may be prepared with courgettes (I or in and simmered simmered in cut in in oval oval chunks and or zucchini), cucumbers cut butter, in butter, celeriac saut6ed in butter, celeriac bottoms sautéed butter, sliced sliced artichoke artichoke bottoms quartered pimentos cut in cut in quartered and sweet pimentos in butter, butter, or or sweet and simmered simmered in large cooking the cookjng off the in butter butter or or oil. oil. Drain off large julienne cooked cooked in liquor. with aa and thicken thicken with down by by one-third one-third and liquor. Boil Boil itit down tablespoon good tablespoon tablespoon of of butter. butter. tablespoon kneaded butter. butter. Add aa good Coat glaze in in aa hot hot oven. oven. this sauce sauce and and glaze Coat the the sole sole with with this sole. BARQUETTES, Barquettes DE TARTELETTES DE BARQLJETTEs, TARTELETTES ofsole. Barquettes or or tartlets of

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SOLE SOLE SoIe Colbert Colbert -- Split Split the the sole sole along along the the side side from from wbich which the the Sole has been skin has been removed. removed. Raise Raise the fillets. Break Break the the fillets. the backbone backbone skin places so in two two or or three three places so that that itit may may easily easily be removedafter after be removed in cooking. cooking. Soak the the sole sole in in cold cold boiled boiled milk, milk, flour flour it, it, coat in egg coat in egg and and Soak breadcrumbs. Roll Roll back back the the fiUets fillets on on themselves themselves so so as as to to leave leave breadcrumbs. the backbone backbone free. free. the Fry the the sole, sole, drain drain it, it, remove remove the backbone. Fill Fill the the backbone. the cavity cavity Fry (see BUTTER, Maitre d'hôtel with Maître thitel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Croquettes and and kromeskies kromeskies of of sole. sole. CROQUETTES, cRoeuETTEs, Croquettes or SOLES preparations are cRoMEseurs DE sorrs -- These These smaU small preparations served as are served as CROMESQUIS hot hors-d'œuvre hors-d euvre or or aa smaU small entrée. They are entr6e. They are made made like like aa hot given under ordinary croquettes, croquettes, the the recipe recipe for for which which isis given under ordinary HORS-D'(EUVRE. Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre. hors-d euvre. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Curried sole. sole. SOLE sorB ÀA L'INDIENNEL'TNDTENNE - Spread Spread on on aa baking baking dish dish aa Curried of chopped chopped onions cooked tiU till soft onions cooked soft in in butter, butter, mixed mixed with with layer of (3 tablespoons) peeled, pressed, tablespoons (3 tablespoons) peeled, pressed, chopped chopped 22 tablespoons tomatoes also also cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Season Season with with aa teaspoon teaspoon tomatoes curry. Set Set aa trimmed trimmed sole pour over sole on on top, top, and and pour over itit 22 curry. (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) musbroom mushroom stock. stock. Poacb Poach in in the the tablespoons oven. oyen. (3 tablespoons) to the the cooking cooking liquor liquor 22 tabJespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Add to (see SAUCE) Velouti or or Béchamel Btchamel sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock stock Velouté (4 tablespoons) tablespoons (4 tablespoons) thick thick fresb fresh cream. Boil for for cream. Boil and 3 tablespoons few moments. moments. Finish off offwith teaspoon butter with aa teaspoon aa few butter and and aa few few drops lemonjuice. lemon juice. Coat the fish with with this sauce sauce and and serve serve with with (see RI Indian-style rice (see RICE, Rice àd l'indienne). I'indienne). Indian-styJe CE, Rice for Fillets of of sole sole àd l'indienne I'indienne can Recipes given below for can also also sole. be applied to whole sole. Sole ài la diplomate diplomate -- Split Split the sole, sole, raise raise the fillets, remove remove the fiUets, the backbone, and stuff stuff with (see with aa whiting the backbone, and whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Fish Fish forcemeat) FORCEMEAT, with cream cream and and diced diced forcemeat) with trufles. Poacb P o ach in afumet a fume t tbat truffles. that is nearly boiling. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Remove the side bones. bones. Surround Surround by Remove by aa salpicon salpicon of lobster. of lobster. (see SAUCE). sauce (see Coat with with Diplomat sauce SAUCE). Put Put on on top top of of the the glazed with fish aspicjeUy four thick slices oftruffies of truffies glazed (see sole four aspic jelly (see ASPIC, ASPIC, Aspic Aspic offish). dor6e -- See Golden Golden sole below. Sole dorée Filleb of of sole. FILETS FTLETs DE SOLES sot.Es -- Fillets of sole are Fillets are removed when when raw. According According to their final use, the fillets are either left as they they are and flattened rolled after are and flattened lightly, lightly, or or roUed after being being slightly slightly flattened. All AlI methods methods of preparation given for the whole of preparation whole sole, as as weil well as as those given elsewhere for for flat flat fisb fish of various various kinds, kinds, are

applicableto tofilfillets ofsole. sole.These These can canbe beserved servedàdlaIameunière, applicable lets of meuniire, poached and fried, boiled, grilled. They and grilled. boiled, poached Theyare fried, areaccompanied accompanied by by garnishes. various sauces sauces and andgarrushes. various Fillets of ofsole solecan can be rolled up paupiettes, recipes upto berolled Fillets tomake make paupiettes, recipes for which which are are to to be found below. below. be found for Each of ofthe the recipes recipes which which follow followrequires Each requires 88fiJlets. fillets. Fillets of ofsole sole cooked cooked àdlalameunière meunibreor Fillets whitewinefumet orininaawhite winefumet garnishedwith may also also be begamished with aubergines, may aubergines, cucumbers cucumbers eut into cutinto 'pigeons' eggs' pimentos peeled, peeled,eut 'pigeons' eggs'and and cooked cookedinin butter, butter, pimentos cutinin strips and and stewed stewed in in butter strips butter or or oil, oil, tomatoes tomatoeshalved halved and and cooked in in butter butfer or oroil, cooked oil, and and other othervegetables vegetablescooked cooked ininbutter butter or oil, oil, braised, braised, boiled or boiled or orstewed stewedin intheir their ownjuices. own juices. Instead of of coating coating the Instead the fillets fillets with with white white wine winesauce, sauce,they they may be (see SAUCE) may be covered covered with with Mornay Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and and browned browned in in the the oyen. oven. Fillets of Fillets of sole sole ài l'américaine. loam6ricaine. FILETS FTLETS DE opSOLES solss ÀAL'AMÉRICAINE r'.a,Mfnrc^lrNe the folded folded fiJlets --Poach Poach the fillets in in white white wine. Drain them wine. Drain them and finish andfinisb offas described described in offas recipe for in the the recipe for Sole Sole àdl'américaine. I'amtricaine. This dish This dish isis often often served served under under the the name name of of Fillets Fillets of of sole sole àd l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. FiUets Fillets of of sole sole ài l'ancienne. I'ancienne. FILETS FTLETSDE DESOLES sor.Es ÀAL'ANCIENNE L'ANcrENNr - Coat Coat 88 lightly lightly flattened flattened fillets fillets of of sole sole with with aa thin thin layer layer of of (see FORCEMEA whiting T, Fish whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT, Fish forcemeat) to forcemeat) to which which aa third third of of its its weight weight of of dry dry duxelles duxelles has has been been added. added. Fold Fold the the fillets, fillets, and and coat coat with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs; breadcrumbs; cook cook in in cIarified clarified butter. butter. Arrange Arrange in in aacircle circle on dish, altemating on aadish, alternating them them with cutlets ofwhiting Ids with little littlecutlets ofwhiting forcemeat forcemeat made inspecial made in special mou moulds and poached. Garnish and poacbed. Garnish the the rniddle middle of of the the dish dish with with aa ragoût ragoitt composed composed of of shrimps, shrimps, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies bound bound with with fish (see SAUCE), fish Velouté Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE), rnixed mixed with with cream cream and and flavQured flavoured with with Madeira. Madeira. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the fillets fillets with with aa little little Noisette (see BUTTER, Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Fillets À L'ANGLAISE Fillets of sole ài l'anglaise I'anglaise I.f. FILETS of sole nrrrs DE DE SOLES sot,Es,i, L'ANGLATSE = Flatten Flatten and and season season the the fiJlets fi.llets and and coat coat them them with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Cook in clarified clarified butter. Cook in butter. Coyer Cover with with softened softened Maître (see BUTTER, Maitre d'hôtel d h6tel butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound butters). butters). Serve potatoes. Serve with with boiled boiled or steamed potatoes. or steamed Fillets of of sole sole ài l'anglaise Panglaise II. II. FILETS r'rrErs DE DE SOLES r'eNcr.llsn soI"Es À A L'ANGLAISEFillets of poached in of sole sole poached in salted salted water water and and milk, milk, served served with with boiled potatoes potatoes and melted butter. and melted butter. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ài l'armoricaine. I'armoricaine. FILETS FrLErs DE DE SOLES soI,Es ÀA L' ARMORJCAINE -- Tbe L'aRMoRrcArxr The same same as as Fillets Fillets of of sole sole àd l'américaine. I'amiricaine. Aspic Aspic of parisienne. ASPIC fillets of of flUets sole ài la la parisienne. of sole Asprc DE DE FILETS FTLETS DE DE SOLES soI,es À A LA LA PARISIENNE eARJsTENNE -- Cook Cook 88 large large fiUets fillets in in aa concentrated concentrated fumet, based on on fish fish stock stock and and made made with with white white wine. wine. Drain Drain fumet, based

How 10 (.Izrozsse) to cul cut fillels fiIlets of sole (Larousse) of sole

How to 10 skin skin fllets fillets of How (Iaronsse) of sole sole (Larousse)

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SOLE LA DE SOLES sot-rs Ài LA FILETs DE la bourguignonne. sole à i la Fillets of sole bourguignonne. FILETS Ia bourguignonne. Prepared like Sole àd la Prepared rA, oe SOLES sorss ÀA LA rtrers DE la cancalaise. cancalaise. FILETS Fillets of of sole sole ài la Fillets flllets and cook them in aa concentrated cANcALATsE - Fold the fillets CANCALAISEpoached for for the the fishfumet, fishfumet, to which the liquor from oysters poached form garnish has been added. Drain, dry, and set them in the form peeled shrimps. shrimps. Put of the dish with peeled Fill the middle of a circle. FijI of rniddle of each fillet. fillet. of each poached and on top top of de-bearded oysters oysters on and de-bearded two poached two (see SAUCE) some to which which sorne SAUCE) to wine sauce sauce (see Coat with with White White wine Coat boiled boiJed downfumet has been added. Stuffthe cARDINAL -- Stuff FILETS DE SOLES sol-Es CARDINAL Fillets of of sole cardinal. cardinal. FILETS the FilJets or forcemeat, finished with lobster or with pike or whiting forcemeat, fillets with poached in nearly that isis nearly in fish fish fumet and poached crawfish butter, butter, and crawfish fumet that boiling. them in aa circle, alternating them dish in circle, alternating Arrange the fillets on on aa dish the fillets Arrange with Cardinal lobster. Coat Coat with Cardinal lobster or or spiny spiny lobster. with slices slices of lobster with (see SAUCE) some of of the concentratedfumet concentratedfumet SAUCE) to which sorne sauce (see coral. chopped lobster lobster coral. Sprinkle with chopped has been added. Sprinkle LA CA cATALANE FILETs DE SOLES sot.Es À A LA of sole sole à i la catalane. FILETS Fillets of TALA NE-mixed breadcrumbs mixed egg and and breadcrumbs flattened fillets with egg Coat lightly flattened Set in half half oil, half butter. Set parsley. Cook Cook in oil, halfbutter. with aa little chopped parsley. (see FONDUE) with aa FONDUE) seasoned seasoned with Tomatofondue on fondue (see on aa layer of of Tomato saut6ed in in oil. oil. garlic. Surround aubergines sautéed with diced diced aubergines Surround with little little garlic. with peeled lemon fillet. Sprinkle Sprinkle with of each each fillet. lemon on on top of of peeled Put aa slice of the cooking butter. os wine. FILETS rILnts DE other red red wine. Chambertin or or other Fillets of of sole sole with Chambertin Poach vIN ROUGE RoucE -- Poach cRAND VfN ou AUTRE AUTRE GRAND SOLES soI,Es AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTIN OU (Chambertin, with red red wine wine (Chambertin, made with the the fillets fillets in in aa fish fish fumet fumet made red BurBurother fine fine red Corton or or other Vougeot, Corton Mâcon, Romande, Vougeot, Mdcon, Romanée, (see below). gundy) as below). gundy) Sole with wine (see for,So/e with red redwine as for of usually composed composed of garnish for fillets of of sole sole isis usually The The garnish for these these fillets glazed onions. or the the The whole whole sole sole or onions. The mushroorns and small small glazed mushrooms and garnished with soft soft be garni shed with fillets red wine wine may may also also be fillets cooked cooked with with red quenpike quencrayfish, pike or crayfish, roes, truffies, shrimps shrimps or roes, mushrooms, mushrooms, truffles, elles, elles. etc. etc.

and cool under under pressure. pressure. Cut each into two pieces and and coat and wrth with White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate with and glaze with jelly. of truffie truffle and jelly. Set in an aspic cut-out pieces of mould mould lined with fish fish jelly jelly and decorated on the bottom bottorn and and against the sides. The fillets should be arranged upright, one against sides. middle of of the the mould rnould with a Parisian salad salad (see other. Fill the middle SALAD) dressed dressed with thick mayonnaise. Cover with a layer SALAD) of fish fish jelly, jelly. Set on on ice. ice. of directly onto or on a base of Turn out out the aspic aspic either eitherdirectly onto a dish or Turn rice or or a buttered crofiton croûton of of bread. bread. Decorate with qquartered uartered rice Surround with bard-boiled eggs eggs and and small small lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Surround hard-boiled cbopped jelly. chopped FilJets of of sole sole Bercy. Bercy. FILETS SOLES BERCY FILETS DE solns BERcy -- Proceed, using Fillets Sole Bercy. Bercy. fillets, as for So/e sol-Es BOUILLIS, BouILLIs, Fillets of of sole, boiled or poached. FILETS DE SOLES tr'illets pocnfs pocHÉS - Poach Poach the flattened fillets in salted water and milk. Serve with melted butter or sorne Drain. Serve some other sauce such as Hollandaise or Cream Cre am sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Butter, Hollandaise Arrange Fillets of of sole sole Boitelle. BoitelJe. FILETs FILETS DE SOLES BoITELLE -- Arrange soI-Es BOITELLE Fillets folded and and seasoned seasoned in aa circle in aa buttered sauté saut6 pan the folded (4 oz., g. (4 For 88 fillets fillets add fiUets. For 100 g. oz., 22 cups) cups) chopped chopped fillets. add 100 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fish tablespoons) concentrated fish mushrooms, 2 tablespoons pan fumet and on juice. juice. Poach, keeping keeping the pan lemon and a squeeze of of lem fumet covered. covered. Arrange the Arrange the fillets in a deep dish, put the mushrooms in the (2 oz., g, (2 middle and pour over the pan juices to which oz., 44 which 50 50 g. tablespoons) butter have been added. tablespoons) Fillets of bonne femme. FILETS L,l BONNE soNNe sor,Es À i, LA FILETS DE SOLES of sole ài la bonne FEMME -- Using fiat prepare like Sole la bonne bonne sole, prepare Sole àd la FEMME flat fillets of sole, femme. femme. Fillets LA DE SOLES soLEs À A LA nIrErs DE Fillets of la bordelaise. bordelaise. FILETS of sole sole ài la BORDELAISE in aa buttered fish fish them in the fiUets, fillets. set set thern BoRDELAISE -- Season Season the garni. kettle with slices and onion onion and and aa bouquet garni. kettle with slices of carrot carrot and Moisten with a glass of red Bordeaux. Poach for 88 minutes. minutes. peeled Drain dish with with peeled set them them on on aa dish Drain the the fillets fillets and and set mushroorns glazed onions. small glazed onions. mushrooms and small Boil down the cooking liquor, adding (3 tablespoons (3 adding to itit 22 tablespoons tablespoons) (see SAUCE). Beat butter butter sauce (see SAUCE). Beat tablespoons) Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce into this sauce, strain, and coat the fillets. fillets. and coat Border of fillets DE DE FILETS FILETS DE la dauphine. BORDURE BoRDURE DE fiIlets of sole sole ài la SOLES of is served under the the name of This dish is served under LA DAUPHINE DAUpHINT -- This sorns À A LA Fillets of la dauphine. dauphine. of sole sole à d la Border of flUets DE BoRDURE DE DE FILETS FILETS DE sole diplomate. diplomate. BORDURE fillets of sole SOLES made with with in aa fumet Poach the the fillets fillets in DIILoMATE -- Poach sot,Es DIPLOMATE fumet made white wine. made moulded border made and set set on on aa rnoulded wine. Drain, Drain, wipe, wipe, and with whiting (see FORCEMEAT, FORCEMEAT, Fishforcemeat), Fishforcemeat), whiting forcemeat forcemeat (see alternating truffies. Surround Surround round truffles. with slices slices of of round the fillets fillets with alternating the the (see of Diplomat Diplomat sauCt! sauce (see few spoonfuls spoonfuls of the border border with with aa few SAUCE). of lobster. dish with aa salpicon salpicon oflobster. of the dish SAUCE). Fill Fill the middle of Coat the liquor, boiled boiled with the the cooking cooking liquor, the truffles truffies with the fillets anq and the down, added. down. with butter added.

BouRGUIGNoNNEBOURGUIGNONNE -

Fillets Fillets of soleChauchat Chauchat ofsole

Fillets Cook DE SOLES cH.c,ucHlr - - Cook FILETs DE soLES CHAUCHAT Fillets of of sole sole Chauchat. Chauchat. FILETS juice, without rolled them letting them lemon juice, without letting and lernon rolled fillets fillets in in butter butter and (seeSAUCE). brown. SAUCE). Surround Surround sauce (see with Mornay Mornay sauce brown. Cover Cover with grated with potatoes. Sprinkle with gratéd Sprinkle with sliced fried fried potatoes. with aa border of sliced border of cheese, and brown. brown. cheese, dot dot with with butter butter and Fillets Y - - Cook rolled Cook rolled DESOLES sot.Es CHlVR cHIvRY FILETs DE Filtets of of sole sole Chivry. Chivry. FILETS fillets fish fumet. and concentrated concentrated fish shallot and chopped shallot fillets with with chopped fumet. Drain, with them with dish, alternating alternating them inaacircle circle on on aadish, Drain, and and arrange arrange in heart-shaped with in butter. Coat with fried in butter. Coat of bread bread fried heart-shaped croûtons cro0tons of Chivry (see SAUCE). of round the the fillets fillets aaborder border of Pour round SAUCE). Pour sauce (see Chivry sauce Fishjelly Y). (see JELL JELLY). Fish jelly (see Fillets sole Fillets of ofsole DESOLES soLES FROIDS FRoIDS - - Fillets nurs DE Fillets of of sole, sole, cold. cold. FILETS (see can (see ASPIC); rings (see prepared asas aspics ASPIC); rings aspics (see can be be prepared BORDERS, glazed with Chamwith Chambertin, Chambertin, CbamBORDERS, Cold rings);glazed Cold rings);

Fillets Fillets of cardinal of sole solecardinal

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SOLE SOLE jelly; as pagne or (like Salmon or jelly; as aa mayonnaise mayonnaise (like Salmon mayonnaise) mayonnaise);; as as pagne (like Lobster salad Inbster or or Spiny Spiny lobster lobster salad). salad). Cold Cold sole sole can can aa saI ad (like also be be made made into intopdtts and terrines. terrines. also pâtés and Filleb of (zucchini) J.I. FILETS of sole sole with with courgettes courgettes (zucchini) rurrs DE DESOLES soI.Es Fillets AUx COURGETTES coURGETTES -- Cook Cook the the flattened flattened fillets fillets ài lala meunière. meuniire. AUX Surround with with courgettes courgettes cut in thick cut in thick slices, slices, cooked cooked in in butter butter Surround or oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with parsley and with chopped chopped parsley and aa few few drops drops of of or lemon juice. Pour Pour over over the the cooking cooking butter, butter, very very hot. hot. lemonjuice. Fillets of of sole sole with with courgettes (zucchini) II. courgeffes (zucchini) II. FILETS rrrnrs DE DESOLES sot,Es Fillets AUx COURGETTES couRcnrrEs -- Cook Cook the the folded folded fiUets fillets in in fishfumet fishfumet made made AUX with white white wine. wine. Surround Surround them them with with slices slices of of courgettes courgettes with cooked in in butter. butter. Coat (seeSAUCE) Coat with with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see to cooked SAUCE) to some concentrated which some concentrated fumet has been been added. added. Glaze Glaze in in aa which fumet has hot oven. oven. hot Fillets of of sole sole Crécy. Cr6cy. FILETS FTLETS DE DE SOLES soI,ns cRÉCY cR6cy -- Poach Poach the the Fillets rolled fiJlets fillets in in fish fish fumet. Drain them. them. Coat Coat with with aa sauce sauce rolled fumet. Drain made by by boiling boiling down down the the cooking cooking liquid liquid and and adding adding 22 made tablespoons'(3 (see SAUCE) tablespoons) Béchamel Bichamel sauce sauce (see SAU-E) tablespoons' (3 tablespoons) (3 tablespoons) and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) carrot purde. carrot purée. and Garnish with with small small new new carrots, glazed. carrots, glazed. Garnish Fillets of of sole sole Cubat. Cubat. FILETS FrLErs DE DE SOLES sot,Es CUBA cuBAT Cook the the T -- Cook Fillets flattened fillets fillets in in mushroom mushroom stock stock and and butter. butter. Set Set them them on on aa flattened fireproof dish. dish. Coat with thick Coat with thick Mushroom (see purte (see Mushroom purée fireproof PUREE). Put Put 22 slices slices of of truffle truffie on on each each fillet. fillet. Coat Coat with with PURÉE). (see SAUCE) Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. Mornay Fillets of of sole sole Daumont. Daumont. FILETS FTLETs DE DE SOLES solEs DAUMONT DAUMoNT -- Spread Spread FilJets the sole (pike or sole fillets fillets with with fish fish forcemeat forcemeat (pike or whiting) whiting) fini finished the shed (see BUTTER, off with with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters.) butters.) off Poach them them in nearly nearly boiling boiling fishfumet. Drain Drain and and dry. dry. Poach Set on a dish, each each fiJlet fillet placed on on top of of aa large mushroom mushroom Set cap cooked in butter and filled with aa Salpicon cooked in Salpicon of of crayfish crayfish(see cap (see CRAYFISH). CRAYFISH). Coat with with Normande (see SAUCE). Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Gamish Garnish with with Coat soft roes roes coated coated with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs and and sautéed saut6ed in in soft butter. FrLErs DE DE SOLES sor,Es DAUPHINE DAUIHTNE -- Poach Fillets of sole dauphine. FILETS the rolled fillets in in Madeira Madeira which which has has had had truffle trufle and and the rolled fillets mushroom skins skins infused in in it. it. Cool, Cool, drain, drain, and and mask mask with mushroom (see SAUCE) Villeroi sauce sauce (see SAUCE) which which has has had had some some of of the the Villeroi cooking liquor Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound cooking liquor and Crayfish fry in in clarified and fry added. Coat with with breadcrumbs and butters) added. butter. butter. Drain and set on a moulded border of (see of Pikeforcemeat Pike forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) cooked in a ring mould in a bain marie. Put marie.Put in of the ragoitt composed composed of in the the middle middle of the dish dish aa ragoût of cooked mushrooms, little pike quenelles, crayfish and sliced truffles, truffies, bound (see SAUCE). Serve with Velouti sauce sauce (see bound with thick thick Velouté Nantua sauce. Fillets sol-Es À A LA DrEpporsE Fillets of of sole sole ià la dieppoise. dieppoise. FTLETS FILETS DE SOLES DIEPPOISECook Cook the fillets in a nearly boiling boiling fishfumet. fishfumet. Drain and dry. Surround Surround with with a a Dieppoise garnish garnish (see (see GARNISHES) GARNISHES) composed composed of of shelled mussels cooked in white wine and and grey or (see or pink pink shelled shelled crayfish. crayfish. Coat with with White White wine wine sauce (see SAUCE) to which which the boiled boiled down cooking cooking liquor liquor from the fillets fillets and mussels mussels has has been been added. added. Fillets Fillets ofsole of sole ià la la diplomate. diplomate. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soI.Es SOLES A À LA LA DTrLoMATE DIPLOMATE --See See Border Border offittets offillets of ofsole sole dà la diplomate. diplomate. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ià l'espagnole. l'espagnole. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soLE SOLE A À r'rspAcrsore L'ESPAGNOLESeason Season the the fillets fillets with with salt and paprika. Flour Flour and fry in oil. Set bed of of tomatoes tomatoes that have been peeled, Set on a dish on a bed drained, chopped, chopped, cooked cooked in in oil, oil, and and seasoned with with salt, salt, paprika paprika and and a little little garlic. garlic. Put Put at at each each end end of of the the dish sweet sweet pimentos, pimentos, peeled, cut in strips and fried fried in in oil, oil, and and place place on on top top of of the the fillets slices slices of strips and onion onion floured floured and and fried fried in in oil. oil. Fillets of sole sole ià la la f6campoise. fécampoise. nmm FILETS DE DE soI-Es SOLES A A LA LA Fillets of rEca,upolsr Name sometimes sometimes given given to to Fillets Fillets of of sole d à la FÉCAMPOISE -- Name trouvillaise. trouvillaise.

Fillets of ofsole florentine. FILETS soleài lala florentine. FTLETsDE ne SOLES rn sorrs ÀALA FiUets FLoRINTINE - - Cook Cook seasoned seasoned fillets filletsininbutter butterand andlemonjuice, lemon juice, FLORENTINE

without the the addition addition of/umet. of fumet. without Seton onaafireproof fireproofdish onaalayer layerof ofblanched leafspinach, Set dish on blanched leaf spinach, (see drained and andsimmered simmered in inbutter. butter. Coat Coatwith withMornay Mornay sauce sauce(see drained gratedParmesan SAUCE).Sprinkle Sprinkle with with grated Parmesan and melted and aalittle SAUCE). little melted butter. Brown Brown inin the theoven. oven. butter. Fillets of of sole, sole, fried. fried. FILETS nrnrs DE DESOLES FRrrs- - Prepare Preparelike like soI-Es FRITS Fillets other fried fried fish. fish. other Fried fillets fillets of sole are garnished ofsole are arrange arrange ininaamound mound and Fried and garnished parsley and with fried fried parsley lemon. They and lemon. They may may also alsobe with becooked cooked on on metal skewers. skewers. metal

goujons Fillets sole en Fillets of ofsole en goujons

Fillets of goujons. FILETS Fillets of sole sole en FTLETs DE en goujons. eN GOUJONS DE SOLES sol-Es EN GouroNs -- Cu Cutt the the fillets diagonally diagonally across pieces 22 cm across in in pieces inch) wide. cm Ci Dip wide. Dip Q inch) these these in in milk, milk, drain, drain, and and flour flour them, them, shaking shaking weil well to to remove remove excess excess flour. flour. Fry Fry in in deep deep fat fat or or oil. oil. Drain and and add parsley and Garnish with add salt. salt. Garnish with fried fried parsley and lemon. lemon. prepared in Sole Sole fillets fillets prepared in this garnish this way way are are often often used used as as garnish for large braised fish. fish. Fillets Fillets of gratin. FiLETS of sole sole au au gratin. FTLETs DE DE SOLES sor,Es AU AU GRATIN GRATTN -Prepare, using slightly slightly flattened flattened fillets, gratin. fillets, as as Sole Sole au au gratin. Fillets of sole, grilled. gri[ed. FILETS FTLETs DE DE SOLES sot,Es GRILLÉS cRlrrfs -- Flatten Flatten the the fillets fillets slightly slightly and and season season them. them. Brush Brush with with oil oil or melted or melted butter and cook under grill at under the grill moderate heat. at aa moderate heat. Surround Surround with slices oflemon of lemon and and small small sprigs sprigs offresh of fresh parsley. Grilled fillets fillets of sole sole are are usually accompanied accompanied by by melted melted butter butter or softened Maître (see BUTTER, or softened Maitre d'hôtel d hOtel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). They may may also be be served served with one one of of the the sauces recommended recommended for grilled fish. It is customary to serve serve boiled potatoes with grilled grilled fillets fillets of of sole, as as weil well as as mushrooms, tomatoes, etc. etc. FiUets Fillets of of sole ài la hongroise. FILETS FTLETs DE SOLES soI,Es À A LA r,c, HONGROISE HoNcnorsr -- Put the folded fillets, seasoned seasoned with salt and paprika, into aa sauté pan pan with (2 oz., g. (2 sauti with 50 50 g. o2.,1t cup) finely finely chopped chopped onion onion ".rp)aa peeled, cooked until until soft cooked soft in in butter, peeled, drained butter, with with drained and and crushed tomato, seasoned crushed tomato, paprika, added seasoned with with paprika, added when when the the on ion is almost tablespoons (1 fishfumet onion (* cup) almost cooked. Add 4 4 tablespoons cup) frshfumet made with white wine. Cover, and and cook cook ail all together. Drain the fillets and arrange arrange in aa ring, alternating alternating them with with heartheartcroûtons. shaped crofitons. Pour over the fillets the cooking Pour cooking liquor, boiled boiled down down and and mixed with 4 tablespoons (* (1 cup) thick fresh mixed cup) thick fresh cream, cream, with with butter and aa squeeze squeeze of oflemonjuice added. butter lemon juice added. and cooked Potatoes cut to look like olives and cooked in in butter butter and and water may may be be added to this dish, set set in the the middle middle of the ring. water of the ring. of sole sole ià J'indienne J. rnrrs FILETS DE DE SOLES À L'INDIENNE Fillets of Fillets I'indienne I. solEs A r'ruornNun -fiJ1-et into two pieces and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Divide each fillet

856 8s6 Table piece piece with with aa hunting hunting theme theme (Collection (Collection air air de de chasse. chasse. Phot. Phol. Nicolas) Table Nicolas)

SOLE SOLE Set Set the the fillets fiJlets on aa bed bed of rice ri ce dà l'indienne l'indienne and pour pour aa Curry Curry saucebased saULe based on on fish fish stock (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) round. round. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole ià I'indienne l'indienne II. rrrnrs FILETS DE DE sot,Es SOLES AÀ r'rNoreNxn L'INDIENNECut Cut the the fillets fiJlets into into narrow narrow strips and and into into aa little little knot. knot. Prepare Prepare separately the the following following coulis:

Fillets FiUets of of sole sole Marivaux. Marivaux. FrLErs FILETS DE DE soLE SOLE MARTVAUx MARlVAUX - Poach Poach the the folded folded fillets fiJlets infumet infumet that that is is nearly boiling. boiling. Drain Drain and and set set them on on aa dish in in the the middle middle of of aa border of of Duchess Duchess potato potato them

n.

(see POTATOES) POT A TOES) piped piped through through aa forcing forcing bag bag on on mixture (see top top of of aa layer layer of of chopped Mushrooms Mushrooms cooked cooked in in crearn cream (see (see MUSHROOMS) MUSHROOMS) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped truffies. truffies. Coat Coat with with aa light Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Brush Brush the the border border with with egg, egg, light sprinkle with grated Parmesan Parmesan and and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. sprinkle Fillets FiUets of sole iil la la meuniire. meunière. FTLETS FILETS nr DE sorts SOLES AÀu LA runuNdnEMEUNIÈREFlat Flat fillets flllets fried fried in in butter butter as as for for So/e Sole ità la la meunibre. meunière.

Cook 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) chopped onion onion in in butter until soft. Add aa small eating apple, peeled and and cut cut in in dice, a medium-sized tomato, peeled and pressed, pressed, aa little little grated grated garlic, garlic, a sprig of thyme, thyme, and and aa powdered powdered bay bay leaf. leaf. Sprinkle dl. $ cup) coconut Sprinkle with with curry. curry. Pour Pour in in ljItdl. (t pint, pint J~cup) cocon ut milk milk or or milk milk of of almonds. almonds. Season. Season. Cook Cook for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Stir Stir in in l| 1 dl. dl. (f (t pint, pint, 31 cup) thick thick cream, cream, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, and and add add aa "np) squeeze sq ueeze of of lemon lemon juice. j uice. Put Put the the twists twists of of sole sole fillets fiUets to to cook cook in in this this sauce. sauce. Serve Serve with with Rice Rice hà I'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). RICE). Fillets FiUets of of sole sole d la la Jacques. Jacques. FTLETs FILETS DE DE soI-Es SOLES A À rl LA rlceuns JACQUES'Put 'Put in in a a deep deep saucepan some some chopped chopped onion onion that that has has previously previously been been cooked in in butter butter till till soft, soft, 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz.,"1l!1 cups) cups) sliced sliced potato potato and and 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 2j 21 cups) cups) sliced sliced mushrooms. mushrooms. 'Pour 'Pour in in aa little !ittle white white wine wine andfishfume/. and Season with with salt salt Season and and pepper and and add add aa bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cook, boiling boiling rapidly. rapidly. 'When the the potatoes potatoes are are three-quarters three-quarters cooked, cooked, put put into into the the saucepan sole, each saucepan 88fillets fillets of ofsole, each cut eut in in two. two. Add Add aa small small pinch pinch of of powdered powdered saffron saffron and and cook cook briskly briskly for for 66 minutes. minutes. Take Take out out the the fillets. fiJlets. Boil Boil down down the the liquid liquid ififnecessary. necessary. 'To 'To serve, serve, arrange arrange the the potatoes potatoes and and mushrooms mushrooms in in aa deep deep dish, dish, put put the the fillets fiJlets on on top, top, sprinkle sprinkle with with the the cooking cooking liquor, liquor, chopped chopped parsley parsley and and chervil.' chervil.' (Azema.) (Azéma.) Fillets Fillets of of sole sole Joinville. Joinville. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sor.Es SOLES JorNvrLLE JOINVILLE -- Poach Poach the the folded folded fillets fillets in fumet that that isis nearly nearly boiling. Drain, and arrange arrange them them in in aa circle on on aa dish, dish, placing them with the points in the points upwards upwards instead instead of ofin the usual usual way. way. Fix a peeled pink shrimp shrimp on on the the tip tip of ofeach each fillet. fi li et. Put Put in in the the middle middle of ofthe the circle circle aa Joinville Joinvillegarnish garnish composed cOlnpos(~d of of shrimps, shrimps, mushrooms mushrooms and and diced diced truffies, truffies, all ail bound with with Joinville Joinville sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Coat Coat the the fillets fillets with with Joinville Joinville sauce to which has has been been added added some sorne of of the the concentrated concentrated sauce to cooking cooking liquor. liquor. Put Put on on each each fillet fillet aa slice slice of oftruffie truffie glazed glazed with with fish fish jelly. jelly. Fillets FILETS DE DE sol.Es SOLES EN EN JULTENNE JULIENNE -FiUets of of sole sole en en julienne. FrLErs Prepared Prepared and and fried fried llke Fillets Fillets of ofsole soleen engoujons, goujons, but but the the fillets fillets are are cut eut more more finely. finely. Fillets Fillets of ofsole sole Marguery. Marguery. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sot.Es SOLES MARGUERv MARGUER Y- This This isis the the recipe recipe given given by by M. M. Mangin, Mangin, who who for for some some thirty thirty years years was was head head chef chefof ofthe the celebrated celebrated Restaurant Restaurant Marguery, at at the the time time when when M. M. Marguery Marguery directed directed the the establishment establishment himself. 'Fillet 'Fillet two two fine fine soles. soles. Use Use the the bones bonesand andtrimmings tnTYlTYlln'o<: to make aa white white wine winefumet, fiavoured with with aa little httle chopped onion, a fumet, flavoured sprig sprig of of thyme, thyme, quarter quarter of of aa bay bay leaf leaf and and aa little parsley. parsley. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Simmer Simmer for for 15 15 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to this this fumet, which which should should be be strained strained and and concentrated, concentrated, the the strained cooking cookingliquor liquorof ofaa litre litre(quart) (quart)of ofmussels musselscooked cookedin in the the usual usual way, way, using using white white wine. wine. 'Place 'Place the the fillets flllets of ofsole, sole, floured fioured and and lightly lightly flattened, fiattened, on on aa buttered buttered baking baking dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle over over aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofthe the fumet. Cover Cover with with buttered buttered greaseproof greaseproof paper paper and and poach poach fumet. gently. gently. 'Drain 'Drain the the fillets fillets well. weil. Set Set them them in in an an oval oval dish dish and and surround surround with with aa double double row row of ofshelled shelled mussels mussels and and shrimps. shrimps. Keep Keep hot, hot, while whilethe the sauce sauceisis prepared. prepared. juices of 'The 'Thesauce. sauce.Add Add the thecooking cookingjuices ofthe thesoles solesto tothefumet thefumet and and strain. strain. Boil Boil down down by by two-thirds. two-thirds. Remove Remove from from the the heat, heat, allow allow the the sauce sauce to to cool cool aa little, little, then then add add 66 egg yolks. Whisk Whisk the the sauce sauce over over gentle gentle heat, heat, like like aa hollandaise, hollandaise, incorporating mC:OflPolratmg about about 350 350 g. g. (12 (12 oz., oz., l|11 cups) cups) of of the the finest finest butter, butter, slightly melted. melted. Season Season the the sauce sauce and and strain. strain. Coat Coat the the fillets fiUets with it. and and garnish. garnish. Brown Brownininaa hot hotoven.' oven.'

t

Fillets Fillets of ofsole Montreuil. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sor,Es SOLES MoNTREUTL MONTREUIL -- Made Made sole Montreuil.

with flat fiat fillets fiJlets in in the the same same way way as as Sole Sole Montreuil. Montreuil. with Fillets FiUets of of sole sole Montrouge. Montrouge. FTLETS FILETS DE DE sor,ns SOLES MoNTRoucE MONTROUGE -Cook the the folded folded fillets fiJlets in in butter, butter, moistening moistening them them with with aa few few Cook drops of of white white wine. wine. Drain Drain them. them. Garnish Garnish with with small small peeled peeled drops

mushrooms cooked cooked in in butter butter and and bound bound with with cream. cream. mushrooms Coat the the whole whole with with aa sauce sauce made made by adding adding to to the the cooking cooking Coat juices I1 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant I1cup) Mushroom Mushroom purte purée (see (see PUREE), aa few tablespoons tabJespoons cream cream and some sorne butter. butter. FiUets of ofsole sole Mornay. Mornay. FTLETS FILETS DE DE soI,Es SOLES MoRNAy MORN Ay -- Cook Cook the the Fillets fillets, left left flat, fiat, in in fumet fumet that that is is nearly boiling. boiling. Coat Coat with with fillets, Mornay sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE), SAUCE), sprinkle sprinkle with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan Mornay and brown brown in in the the oven. oven. and FiUets of ofsole sole Murat. Murat. FrLErs FILETS DE DE soI-Es SOLES MURAT MURAT -- Cut Cu t the the fillets fiUets Fillets in in strips, strips, flour fiour and and saute sauté them them in in butter. butter. Sauté separately, separately, for for every 88 fillets, fiUets, 22 medium-sized medium-sized diced diced Saut6 potatoes and and two two half-cooked diced diced artichoke artichoke bottoms. boUoms. these are are cooked cooked mix mix the the fillets fillets with with them, them, and and saut6 sauté When these together together over over heat heat for for aa few few moments. moments. Set Set in in aa deep deep dish. dish. Put Put on on top top 88 slices slices of of tomatoes tomatoes seasoned seasoned and and sautded sautéed in in oil. oil. Sprinkle with with chopped parsley, parsley, add add aa little little meat meat gldze glaze and and aa Sprinkle of lemon lemon juice, and and pour pour over over aa few few tablespoons tablespoons squeeze of Noisette butter butter (see (see BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). butters). Filtets Fillets of of sole sole with with mushrooms. mushrooms. FTLETS FILETS DE DE soI,Es SOLES AUx AUX cHAMnIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS -- Cook Cook folded folded fillets fiJlets of of sole sole and and 22 peeled peeled mushrooms for for each each sole sole in in aa nearly nearly boiling white white wine wine fish fish mushrooms fumet. Set Set the the fillets fillets on on aa dish dish with with the the mushrooms on on top. top. fumet. Boil Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor liquor with with an an equal equal quantity of of fresh fresh cream, cream, add add butter, butter, strain, strain, and and pour over over the the fillets. These These fillets fillets may may also also be be coated coated with While White wine winesauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) with with concenfiatedfumel added added before before straining. straining. Fillets Fillets of of sole sole with witb mussels. FTLETS FILETS DE DE sor.gs SOLES AUX AUX MouLEs MOULES Poach Poach the the folded folded fi.llets fillets in in fishfumet fishfumet and andthe the cooking cookingliquor of of mussels. mussels. Set Set on on aa dish, dish, and and surround surround with with mussels mussels cooked in in white white wine. wine. Coat Coat with with White W.hite wine wine sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which some sorne concentrated concentrated cooking cookingliquor liquor has has been been added. added. Fillets FiUets of ofsole sole iillala Nantua. Nantua. FTLETS FILETSDE DEsor,Es SOLESeux AUXfcnnvrssns ÉCREVISSESAÀ LA NANTUA NANTUA -- Poach Poach the the folded folded fillets fiUets in in aa fish fimet that that isis LA nearly nearly boiling. boiling. Drain, Drain, dry, dry, and and set set them them in in aa circle on on aa dish. dish. Coat Coat with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which some some boiled boiled down down cooking cooking liquor Jiquor has has been beenadded. added. Put Put aa slice slice of oftruffe truffie on on each each fillet. fiUet. Fillets Fillets of ofsole sole iil la la Nantua Nantua (old (oldrecipe). recipe). FTLETs FILETS DE DEsoI,Es SOLESAÀLA LA NANTUA NANTUAPoach the the fillets fillets very very gently gently in in white white wine. wine. Set Set - Poach them, them, well well drained, drained, on on aa moulded moulded border border made made with with Prke Pike (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) finished finished off off with with Crayfish Crayjish forcemeat (see forcemeat butter (seeBUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters). Garnish Garnishthe themiddle middle butter(see of of the the dish dish with with Crayfish tail tai! ragofrt ragoût dà la la Nantua Nantua (see '(see CRAYFISH). CRA YFISH). Coat Coat the fillets fillets with with Nantua Nantua sauce sauce SAUCE) SAUCE) to to which which some fumet has has been been added. added. Put Put aa large large slice slice of oftruffie truffieon on top top of each fillet. fillet. Fillets FiUetsofsole of soleilanormande. il la normande.nnnrs FILETSorsorns DE SOLESAÀr.l LANoRMANDE NORMANDE Poachthe thefillets, flllets, left leftflat, fiat, gently gentlyinfumet.Drain, infumet. Drain,set setthem themon on -- Poach a serving dish, dish, and and surround surround them themwith withNormande Normandesauce sauce(see (see SAUCE). Finish Finish as as for for Sole Solehàlalanormande. normande. Fillets Filletsofofsole soleAàI'orientale. l'orientale.FrLErs FILETSDE DEsoI-Es SOLESAÀL'oRrENrALn L'ORiENTALEPrepare, Prepare, using using flat fiat fillets, flllets, like like Red Red mullet mullet ità l'orientale l'orientale (see (see HORS-D'(EUVRE). HORS-D'ŒUVRE). This Thisdish dishisisserved served hot hotor orcold. cold. 857 857

Decorated Decoraledegg eggand andtomato Lomalosalad salad(Phot. (Phol. Nicolas) Nicolas)

SOLE

in butter and with aa few drops of Madeira saut6ed in and bound sautéed bound with fillets with Noisette Noisette butter Sprinkle the fillets sauce (see SAUCE). SprinkJe BUTTER, Compound butters.) Compound butters.) (see BUTTER, RIcHE -- Riche sauce is Filfets of sole Riche. FILETS FILETS DE SOLES solEs RICHE Fillets Parisian was aa speciality of tbe the famous Pari called because so caUed because it was sian disappeared. restaurant Riche, which has now disappeared. (see SAUCE) is made with with Normande Normande sauce The sauce sauce is sauce (see The (see BUTTER) few finished off with with Lobster butter butter (see BUTTER) and and aa few finished (see ESSENCE). tablespoons Truffle Trffie essence essence (see tablespoons in hot hotfumet. and arrange Poach the folded fiUets fillets in Poach fumet. Drain, and them on a dish in a circle. Garnish the middle with a salpicon truffies. Coat with Riche Riche sauce sauce (see flesh and of lobster lobster flesh and truffies. Coat with Gee of SAUCE). SAUCE).

Fillets of of sole àd la nonnande FillelS nonnande

Fillets of sole Orly. FILETS EIrnrs DE SOLES soI,Es ORLY oRLy -- Prepare as for Prepare as WHITING). Whiling Or/y Whiting O r ly (see WHITING). sol-Es AUX AUx Hù1TRES HUiTRES -Fillets of sole with oysters. FTLETS FILETS DE SOLES Fold the fillets and in fish and cook them in and dry. fishfumet. fumer. Drain and poached in Put on top of ofeach de-bearded and poached each fillet 2 oysters de-bearded their own liquor. Coat with Normande sauce or or White White wine tbeir Normande sauce to which which some boiled down fumet and sauce (see SAUCE) to sauce boiled down fumet and oyster liquor have been added. oyster pargrrrine FTLETS DE SOLES soI,Es À A LA u PANETIÈRE Fillets of sole àd la panetiire. panetière. FILETS Flatten and trim the fillets and fold them in 2. 2. Season Season with -- Flatten pepper, flour and sauté saut6 them in butter. salt and pepper, Prepare separately separately aa ragoût ragoitt of mushrooms àd la Ia crème. crbme. Prepare Arrange crown on a thick, round slice of bread, Arrange the fi.llets fillets in a crown in the Put the buttered and hoUowed hollowed out, out, buttered and crisped crisped in the oven. oven. Put few moments in in the mushrooms in the middle. Warm for aa few oven and serve. penunNrdnr -FrLErs DE DE SOLES sot.Es PARMENTIÈRE Fillets of sole Parmentier. FILETS fllletsinfumet half of Poach the fillets infumet and drain them. Set each into half potato baked partly scooped a medium-sized baked in the oven and partly medium-sized potato (see POT POTATOES). out, as Potatoes Georgette ATOES). Coat Coat the as for Potatoes Georgette (see (see SAUCE) with Mornay to which which sorne some fillets fillets with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to added. Sprinkle with concentrated cooking liquor has been added. Parmesan and melted melted butter. Brown in the oven. grated Parmesan p,c,vsANNE FTLETS DE SOLES sorss À A LA r.q. PA paysanne. FILETS YS ANNE -Fillets of of sole ài la paysanne. Prepare Prepare with folded fillets like Sole à d la paysanne. pi6nontaise. FILETS Fillets of sole ài la la piémontaise. FILETS DE DE SOLES sor,Fs À A LA Fillets of sole pdiuoNrarsn -- Season sautd in folded filJets, fillets, flour, PIÉMONTAISE Season the the folded flour, and and sauté polenta to butter. Set each on a croûton cro0ton cut out of ofaa layer of ofpolenta butter. the same size as the fiUets, fillets, and fried in butter. Put on top of each fillet 4 slices of white truffies seasoned seasoned lightly sautéed saut6ed in in olive oil. Pour with with salt salt and and pepper and and lightly olive oil. round round the cooking diluted with white white wine, wine, to to which cooking juices diluted purde and butter. tomato purée have been added a few tablespoons tablespoons tomato prLAF -- Cut Fillets of sole en FrLErs DE DE SOLES sot.Es EN EN PILAF Cut the en pilaf. FILETS flour, and saut6 briskly in fiUets fillets into into little squares. Season, Season, flour, and sauté (see fillets in the middle of of a border of of Pilaf Pilaf rice (see butter. Set the fillets (see PILAF). PILAF). Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce or or Curry Curry sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). pI-.rr -- This FrLErs DE SOLES Fillets of sole sur le plat. FILETS solEs SUR suR LE LE PLAT dish is is most often prepared with with aa whole sole, sole, but may be made with fiUets. So/e sur le fillets. (See Sole le plat, below). pRrNcEssE - Poach princesse. FILETS Fillets of sole princesse. FTLETS DE DE SOLES solEs PRINCESSE the folded fillets fillets infumet. Set them on aa dish and coat them (see SAUCE) to with to which which sorne some conwith Normande Normande sauce sauce (see centrated centrated cooking liquor has been added. Garnish with very small fine filled with with fine pastry barquettes, filled green asparagus tips bound with butter, and slices of truffles trufres dipped in fish aspicjeUy. aspic jelly. AJternatively, coated with with egg egg and fillets may may be Alternatively, the the fillets be coated breadcrumbs and in clarified Garnish with and sautéed sautded in clarified butter. butter. Garnish alternate alternate clusters of asparagus tips in butter and diced truffies

of sole sole Richelieu fuchelieu Fillets of FillelS

Richelieu. FILETS FTLETS DE DE SOLES soI.Es RICHELIEU RICHELIEU -- Coat Fillets of sole Richelieu. and fry them them in butter. egg and and breadcrumbs and the fillets with egg Maitre d'hôtel slices of truffles truffies and and cover with Maître d h6tel Garnish with slices butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters.) butter butters.) DE SOLES sol-Es SAINTSAINTnurs DE Fillets of of sole sole Saint-Germain. Saint-Germain. FILETS FilJets GERMAIN cERMATN -- Flatten lightly 8 fillets, season them with salt and freshly made with melted butter and and coat with freshJy pepper, brush witb grill on both sides at a breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. SprinkJe Sprinkle with butter and griU letting them colour colour slightly. moderate heat, Jetting (see SAUCE) Bbarnaise sauce (see Surround with rather thick Béarnaise potutoes (see POTATOES). garnish with Noisette POTATOES). Norserrc potatoes and garnish FILETS DE SOLES AUx CREVETTESsot-Es AUX cREvETTES Fillets of sole with shrimps. FILETS white wine. in fish fish fumet made with white folded fillets in Cook the the folded fumet made shrimps, and coat with with Shrimp Shrimp surround with peeled Drain, surround peeled shrimps, (see SAUCE) to down to which which has has been added boiled boiled down been added sauce sauce (see fumet left from the cooking. fumet Put 88 syr,vErrE -- Put Fillets of sole sole Sylvette. Sylvette. FILETS FILETs DE DE SOLES sql-Es SYLVETTE Fillets (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) tablespoons (4 saute pan lined with 3 tablespoons fil lets in aa sauté fillets leek, onion onion carrot, the the white white of of leek, fine fine mirepoix composed composed of carrot, soft in butter. and celery cut in very small dice, cooked until soft (3 tabJespoons, cup) sherry. with t] dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant + cup) sherry. Moisten with Moisten cooked, add add 44 tableWhen three-quarters cooked, Cook, Cook, covered. covered. When cut in sm small dice. (]cup) mixed truIDes mushrooms cut truffies and and mushrooms spoons (-~cup) ail dice. fish Garnish with very small small tomatoes stuffed stuffed with aa white fisb pur6e, topped with in the the oven. with crumbs and and browned in oven. Boil purée, add to few tablespoons tablespoons thick down the the cooking liquor, add to itit aa few fillets. and pour over over the fillets. fresh cream and butter, and I'ancienne. TIMBALE DE FILETS FILETS DE DE fiIlets of sole sole à i l'ancienne. TIMBALE DE Timbale of fiUets (see pie crust Prepare aa Timbale Timbale pie crust (see SOLES L'ANcIENNE -- Prepare sorEs ÀA L'ANCIENNE Turn it out TIMBALE). Cook empty. empty. Turn out of the mould, return itit golden brown. to the oven and allow allow it to become golden prepared with pike forcemeat paupiettes of sole, forcemeat sole, prepared Cook 12 paupiettes Cook'12 concentratedfumet. finished finished offwith offwith lobster butter, in concentratedfumet. de-bearded and and Prepare separately separately aa ragoût, ragottt, made made of of de-bearded Prepare wine, slices slices mussels cooked cooked in white wine, poached oysters, shelled shelled mussels slices oftruffle. of truffie. Bind this of lobster, lobster. cooked cooked mushrooms and and slices mixed with fresh cream, cream, finisbed finished ragoût fish velouté withfish veloutt sauce mixed ragottt with

±

858

SOLE Fillets of of sole sole ài la la vénitienne FILETs DE oe SOLES Fillets v6nitienne n. II. FILETS sores ÀA LA rA. gives aa Plumerey, the the successor successor of of Carême, Car€me, gives - Plumerey, preparation: 'The different recipe for for this this preparation: 'The flllets different fillets of of folded folded soles are poached in in white white wine, wine, then then drained, drained, wiped wiped and and arranged in a crown. The centre is is garnished with aa salpicon of lobster and and truffies truffies bound bound with Venetian Venetian sauce sauce (see SAUCE), SAUCE), without herbs but finished finished with with Lobster butter butter (see BUTTER). The fillets are coated with green Venetian sauce sauce garnished with chopped and gar'nished chopped and blanched parsley.' Fillets of sole V6ron. FILETS FILETs DE SOLES sot,Es VÉRON vERoN -- Coat the fillets with egg and breadcrumbs and cook in c1arified clarified butter. Serve Serve on a layer of Véron Viron sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). FiUetsof Fillets of sole Victoria. Victoria. FILETS FTLETS DE SOLES sor,Es VICTORIA vrcroRJA -- Poach the the folded that is nearly folded fillets fillets infumetthat nearly boiling. boiling. Drain and and arrange on a serving serving dish in in aa circle. circle. Garnish the middle of the the dish with a salpicon of spiny lobster flesh flesh and and truffies. truffies. Coat with White sauce (see SAUCE) White wine sauce SAUCE) finished finished off with Lobster or or (see BUTTER, spiny lobster lobster butter BUTTER, Compound butter (see Compound butters.) Brown in a hot oven. Vol-au-vent of fillets of sole. voL-AU-vENT DE of flUets sole. VOL-AU-VENT FTLETs DE DE FILETS SOLES paupiettes of sole and a garnish Prepare with fillets or garnish soLES -- Prepare or paupiettes of mus hrooms and truffies in the same way as of mushrooms as for Chicken volau-vent (see VOL-AU-VENT). FiUets of Fillets of sole sole Walewska. FILETS FILETs DE DE SOLES soI,ns WALEWSKA wALEwsKA -Poach the fillets, left flat, fishfumet that Poach is nearly boiling. flat, in infishfumer that is Put on top of let aa slice of ter and aa Put fillet of each fil of lobster or spiny lobs lobster truffie. Coat slice of raw truffie. (see SAUCE) slice with Mornay sauce Coat with sauce (see finished off off with with Lobster Lobster or (see finished or sprny lobster lobster buller butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). BUTTER, butters). Brown in a hot oven. of sole FiUets of Fillets sole with red wine. FILETS rrrrrs DE SOLES soI,ns AU VIN vrN ROUGERoucE Made with red wine of sole with Chambertin. wine like Fillets of Chantbertin. Fillets of white wine. FILETS of sole with whlte sot,Es AU VIN vrN BLANC BLANc Rr-srs DE SOLES a fumet made with white wine, like -- Poach folded fillets in afumet white wine. wine. Sole with withwhite Sole dr à la la florentine -- Poach fumet that Poach in in fish fumet that isis nearly remove the backbone. Set on aa fireproof boiling. Drain and remove blanched, drained and pressed leaf spinach dish on a bed of ofblanched, leafspinach and pressed simmered in butter. Coat with Mornay sauce sauce (see SAUCE). simmered SAUCE). Sprinkle with with butter butter and melted cheese. Brown in oven. Sprinkle Fried sole. SOLE soLE FRlTE FRrrE -- Soak Soak the sole in milk, milk, drain and and il. Plunge into hot fat fat or oil. flour it. oil. Drain Drain as as soon soon as is aa as it is golden colour, and season season with very dry salt. salt. Garnish with fried parsley and lemon. FRlTOT DE SOLES fritiers. FRIror Sole fritters. fillets for 30 sot.Es -- Marinate the fiUets 30 parsley, salt and pepper. minutes in oil,lemon oil, lemonjuice, juice, chopped minutes chopped parsley, batter and fry in deep deep fat. Arrange Dip in aa light batter Arrange in aa mound. Garnish with fried parsley and lemon. lemon. Serve with Garnish with Tomato sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauce sole. soln SOLE oonfs DORÉE - Cook the sole, Golden sole. sole, ftoured, flotired, in - Cook the Top with aa'row row of c1arified butter. butter. Top clarified of lemon slices slices and and sprinkJe sprinkle Noisette butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). with Norsette butters). Sole au au gratin gratin I1 -- Put aa sole sole weighing about 300 (Il oz.) 300 g. (r] into aa buttered fireproof fireproof dish lined with 1 into I or 22 tablespoons tablespoons (2 or 3 3 tablespoons) of dry dry duxe/les. with salt or duxelles. Season Season with salt and and pepper. pepper. Garnish with mushrooms cut eut in thick slices. Garnish slices. Place Place 3 or or 44 cooked mushroom mushroom caps on on top top of the soles. Coat with cooked of the soles. Coat with Duxelles sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) to to which sorne Duxelles some concentrated concentrated fish fumet has has been been added. added. Sprinkle SprinkJe with with breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Cook in aa Cook in fumet moderate oven until until brown. brown. Squeeze Squeeze over few drops moderate over aa few drops of of lemon juice. juice. lemon il -- Put Put the the sole, sole, well weil seasoned, seasoned, into into aa Sole au gatin II buttered fireproof dish dish lined lined with with chopped chopped shallot buttered shallot and and moistened with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) white white parsley moistened and aa few few drops drops of oflemon Dot little little pieces pieces of butter wine and wine lemon juice. Dot of butter on top. top. Cook Cook in the the oven oven for for 55 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain offthe off the cooking on cooking boil down, down, and and add add to to itit 44 tablespoons tablespoons (5 (5 tablespoons) tablespoons) liquor, boil Add aa teaspoon teaspoon Tomato Tomalo purbe purée (seePUREE). (see PURÉE). duxelles. Add

offwith ter butter Compound butters) butters) and and offwith Zobs Lobster butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound a few drops ofbrandy. of brandy. Three-quarters cook some salted water, water, drain, sorne macaroni in sa!ted finish with fresh cream dressed with with butter. Put cream seasoned seasoned and dressed a half of a layer layer of of macaroni in in the the pie while while still hot. On top put half the ragoitt and 6 of of the the paupiettes. paupiettes. Cover with macaroni, add

VENITIENNE VÉNITIENNE

another layer of ragottt ragoût and the other 6 paupieres. Finish with layer of the the rest rest of of the the macaroni macaroni and a row of truffie slices. Put back back the the pastry 'lid' on the timbale timbale and return retum it to the oven oven for a few minutes. Timbale TTMBALE DE flUets of sole Grimaldi. TIMBALE DE FTLETs FILETS DE Timbale of fillets sol-Es with SOLES cRIMArot GRIMALDIlike Fillets Fillets of sole àh I'ancienne l'ancienne with - Prepare like fillets (see of sole sole spread with truffied Fish Fish forcemeat (see fillets of

FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), Crayfish tail tai! ragottt ragoût d à la Nantua Nantua (see CRAYFISH), CRA YFISH), slices slices of truffies and macaroni with cream.

This timbole timbale can also be be made made with langoustines langoustines (i.e. scampi sauce finished finished with with crayfish sauce butter instead ofcrayfish and crayfish sauce. sauce. Timbale of fllets of sole ià la la normande. normande. TIMBALE FILETS DE TTMBALE DE FrLErs sorns SOLES A À LA LA NoRMANTn NORMANDE - Prepare Prepare as above with paupiettes of sole sole spread with with whiting forcemeat, forcemeat, poached poached oysters, mussels mussels cooked cooked in in white white wine, wine, peeled peeled shrimps, shrimps, trufle truffie slices slices and macaroni macaroni with with cream. cream. Instead of a pastry 'lid' 'Iid' place on top of the pie trussed crayfish and breadcrumbs and crayfish and gudgeon coated in egg and fried. fried. Timbale flllets of sole Victoria. TTMBALE TIMBALE DE DE FTLETs FILETS DE Timbale of fillets Prepare in a broad, broad, shallow shallow pastry pastry crust crust that SOLES vlcronu, VICTORIA -- Prepare sot.Es has been been cooked cooked empty. has Spread the the fillets fiUets with with Pikeforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) Spread finished offwith Truffie purte (see PUREE), and and cook them them in finished concentrated made with white white wine. wine. concentratedfishfumet made Prepare a ragoftt of sliced sliced spiny lobster, lobster, oysters, oysters, mushPrepare rooms and and truffies bound with with veloutt velouté sauce mixed mixed with rooms cream and finished finished off with Lobster Lobster butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, cream and brandy. brandy. Compound butters) and the bottom of of the the pie pie and Put a few spoonfuls of ragoitt in the arrange thepaupiettes, the paupiettes, well well drained, in aa circle circle on on top. Fill FiU the arrange centre with with the the rest rest of of the the ragottt. ragoût. Coat Coat with Normande Normande sauce centre (see SAUCE) and and put on on top top of of each paupiette paupiette aaslice slice of oftruffle trufre In fish aspic jelly. dipped in of sole sole en torsade. torsade. FTLETs FILETS DE DE sot.gs SOLES EN EN roRsADE TORSADE Fillets of Arrange flattened flattened and seasoned fillets fillets of of sole in a buttered buttered Arrange savarin mould. mould. Place Place the the fillets fillets crossways, crossways, overlapping overlapping each savarin other aa little !ittle and and leaving leaving their their ends just outside outside the the mould. mould. other Using aa forcing forcing bag, bag, fill the the inside of of the the mould mould with some sorne Using Fish forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) (e.9., (e.g., quenelles, Fish mousseline, etc.), etc.), adding, adding, according according to to the the kind kind of of forcemeat tOl'celne,at mousseline, used, truffies, truffies, mushrooms, mushrooms, Lobster Lobster or other other shelffish shellfish butter used, (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). Tap the the mould mould to settle settle (see the contents. contents. Fold Fold the the ends ends of of the the fillets fillets over the forcemeat the and press press them them down. down. and Poach in in aa bain-marie bain-marie in in aa moderately moderately hot oven. oven. Take out Poach ofthe the oven, oven, allow allow to to cool cool for for aa few few minutes. minutes, then then turn out out and of serve with with aa sauce sauce suitable suitable for for fish fish (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). serve Fillets of of sole sole ià la la trouvillaise. trouvillaise. rrrsrs FILETS pe DE sorss SOLES A À rA, LA Fillets TROUVILLAISE -- Prepare like like Fillets Fi/lels of sole dà la dieppoise, but TRoUvILLAISE coat the the fillets fiUets with White White wine wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE) to which which coat Shrimp butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) has been been Shrimp added. added. Turban of of fillets fillets of of sole. sole. TURBAN TURBAN DE DE FrLErs FILETS DE DE sor,Es SOLES Turban in the the same same way way as as Fillets Fillets of sole en en torsade. torsade. Prepare in of sole sole d il la la v6nitienne vénitienne I. FTLETS FILETS DE DE sor,Es SOLES A À LA LA Fillets of VÉNITIENNE - Poach the folded folded fillets infumel. in fumet. Arrange Arrange in aa vfNtnENxr - Poach the alternating them them with with heart-shaped heart-shaped crofitons croûtons of of bread bread ring, alternating ring, butter. Coat Coat the the fillets fiUets with with Venetian Venetian sauce sauce (see (see fried in in butter. fried SAUCE) to to which which some sorne of of the the boiled boiled down down cooking cooking liquor liquor SAUCE) has been been added. added. has

or Dublin Bay prawns) and and

859 859

SOLE SOLE le MEUNIÈRE unuNdnn -sors A meuniire, various Sole ài la meunière, various garnishes. SOLE À LA sole as indicated above. Set on a dish and surround Cook Cook the sole with a garnish. Finish as in the last recipe. Garnish with: in butter, clpes butter, cèpes in rounds rounds and and sautéed saut6ed in Aubergines eut cut in (with the if liked, liked, of of addition, if the addition, saut6ed in butter (with sliced and sautéed sliced and sautded mushrooms little garlic), sliced sautéed chopped shallot or a Little courgettes prepared of the fish, courgettes set on top of prepared in the same way as sautded in butter, cut in large dice and and sautéed aubergines, aubergines, potatoes eut of few drops drops of the sole having aa few sliced, the sole having orange, peeled and and sliced, orange, peeled squeezed over it with the of lemon lemon juice squeezed orange juice instead of orange juice grapes, peeled with butter, sprinkled with and sprinkled cooking butter, butter, grapes, peeled and in thick cut in oil. truffies eut saut6ed in butter or oil, sliced tomatoes sautéed sole was in the in which which the the sole lightly in the butter in strips, strips, cooked lightly cooked. (* lb.) g. (! lb.) 'Prepare in advance 200 g. Sole meuniire Mont-Bry -- 'Prepare Sole meunière (dried noodles for this will not not do do for noodles will noodles eut very finely finely (dried cut very peel6large them to purpose). Heat and and press them 6 large tomatoes and purpose). and peel juice. Add these aa medium-sized medium-sized Add to to these remove remove ail all seeds seeds and and juice. golden, aa pinch of of cooked in butter until golden, onion, chopped chopped and cooked garlic. Cover and pinch of sugar Cover and crushed garlic. salt, sugar and and aa little crushed salt, aa pinch cook gently. (about 1I g. (about 'Prepare separately 450 g. soles weighing about about 450 'Prepare separately 3 soles (on the the little from the backbone backbone (on lb.) each. Detach the fillets aa !ittle each. Detacb removed) and and has been side been removed) skin has side from from which which the the brown brown skin in cook in in flour flour and and cook Toss them season with salt them in salt and and pepper. Toss golden brown. clarified butter until golden g. (4 (4 oz., pan heat clarified butter. butter. 'In another heat 100 100 g. oz., 1 another pan i cup) clarified fried are lightly lightly fried Put in they sautd them them until "rrp) they are in the noodles noodles and and sauté and and crisp. crisp. lemon 'Set the little lemon 'Set heated dish, dish, squeeze squeeze over over aa little the soles on on aa heated juice, sprinkle parsley over, the juice, surround with with the over, surround sprinkle chopped chopped parsley of tomato, at each each end end of the noodles in in aa mound at and arrange arrange the tomato, and generously with the with Noisette Noisette butter butter soles generously dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle the the soles the dish. so (see BUTTER, immediately so (see serve immediately buners) and and serve BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) still hot hot and and that when the dish the butter butter isis still dish arrives arrives at at the the table the (Phildas Gilbert.) frothy.' (Philéas Gilbert.) Sole in nearly nearly boi!ing boiling fumet. Poach the the sole sole in Montreuil -- Poach Sole Montreuil fumet. potato balls the Surround in salted water. Coat Coat the cooked in salted water. with potato balls cooked Surround with potato balls sole with Shrimp balls with Shrimp wine sauce sauce and and the the potato sole with with White White wine (see sauce or pink sauce shellfish butter butter (see sauce made with with aa shellfish or any any other other pink SAUCE). SAUCE). Sole see BRILL. BRILL. Mornay, see like Brill Brill Mornay, Mornay -- Cooked Cooked Ijke Sole Mornay preparations made made Sole MoussE DE DE SOLES soLES -- Small Small preparations Mousm. MOUSSE Sole Mousse. (see FISH, with FISH, Fish Fisft for large large mousses mousses (see as for with the the same same mixture mixture as goffered mousse), or goffered in dariole moulds, cassolettes c as s o le t I e s or cooked in dar io le moulds, m o us s e), but but cooked paper cases. cases. garnish large Cold mousselines of fish. large cold cold fish. sole are are used to garnish of sole used to Coldmousselines Sole Prepare cHAMPIcNoNs -- Prepare soLE AUX with mushrooms. mushrooms. SOLE AUX CHAMPIGNONS Sole with with with mushrooms way as for Brill Brill with mushrooms in the the same same way as for with whole whole sole sole in (see (see BRILL) with mushrooms. mushrooms. Fillets ofsole of sole with BRILL) or or Fillets Sole Brill with with way as as Brill Cooked in in the the same same way la Nantua Nantua -- Cooked Sole ài la crayfish (see BRILL). BRILL). Nantua (see crayfish àh la la Nantua Sole and with oil, oil, and Season the the sole, sole, brush brush itit with la niçoise nigoise -- Season Sole ài la grill. garnish composed of tomatoes tomatoes composed of grill. Surround with aa niçoise nigoise garnish Surround with cooked little mixed with with aa little in butter soft, tarragon tarragon mixed cooked in butter until until soft, anchovy arranged these being being arranged and capers; capers; these black olives olives and anchovy butter, butter, black peeled in groups. Place slices of ofpeeled fillets and and slices Place anchovy anchovy fillets in separate separate groups. lemon sole. lemon on on the the sole. Sole mussels liquor of of mussels in the cooking liquor Poach the the sole sole in the cooking Nolil - Poach Sole Noëlor me same peeled mushroom in the the sa caps in mushroom caps in Chablis. Cook 44 peeled or in Chablis. Cook baking dish. baking dish. Set the with the dish, with fireproof dish, in aa fireproof drained, in sole, weil well drained, Set the the sole, mushrooms and mussels and with shelled shelled mussels top. Surround Surround with mushrooms on on top. shrimps. shrimps. Boil yolks with 22egg egg yolks Thicken itit with liquor. Thicken Boil down down the the cooking cooking liquor. and garnish with with this this Coat the the sole sole and and garnish in extra butter. Coat extra butter. and beat beat in sauce. (Octave Vaudable's quickly in Vaudable's in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. (Octave Brown quickly sauce. Brown recipe.) recipe.)

Garnish the the sole sole with with mushrooms mushrooms and and pour pour the the sauce sauce over. over. Garnish melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in in a hot Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and melted Sprinkle oven. oven. GriUed sole. sorr SOLE cnnrfB GRILLÉE - Make Make shallow shallow incisions across Grilled or melted butter, butter, and cook the sole, season season it, brush with oil or the under the grill at a moderate heat. Surround Surround with slices of under lemon and and small bunches of fresh parsley, and and serve with lemon Maître dd'hôtel BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) or hdtel butter (see BUTTER, Maitre any sauce sauce suitable suitable for grilled grilled fish. any GULYAS DE DE soI-Es SOLES -- Cut the fillets into into square square Gulyasofsole. of sole. curvls Gulyas pieces. Season Season and put them into a saut6 sauté pan in which (for 8 (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) chopped onion seasoned fiJlets) 100 g. (a lj seasoned with l! fillets) teaspoons paprika have been been cooked in in butter. butter. Sauté Saut6 the teaspoons pieces of ofsole quickly on each side. Take them out of of the pan pieces sole quickly and put put in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Bbchamel Béchamel sauce (see (+ pint, seant tomato pur6e purée and 2 dl. (~pint, scant SAUCE), I1 tablespoon tomato mer for a few moments. Put the pieces Simmer cup) fresh cream. Sim ofsole back in the pan and cook for another 3 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve sole back of with boiled potatoes. potatoes. marchand de de vin -- Insert into a sole, with the fiJlets fillets eut cut Sole marchand and raised raised aa little, a a piece piece of butter butter the the size size of aa walnut and seasoned with salt salt and fish on on aa buttered the fish and pepper. Put the seasoned baking dish spinkled with aa tablespoon of chopped shallot. baking pour over l+ I! dl. (t Season, (+ pint, ~ Season, pour J cup) red wine and poach in the oven. Set dish. Coat with aa sauce made by serving dish. Set the sole on a serving boiling down the poaching Liquor liquor and adding to it aa teaspoon teaspoon boiling of fish or meat glaze, (l! oz., glaze, 40 g. 01 40 g. o2.,33 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter, butter, aa juice. parsley and aa few drops of lemon lemonjuice. pinch of of chopped chopped parsley Sole in aa fish fish Poach the sole very gently in i la marinière mariniire -- Poach Sole à fumet to which chopped shallot has has been been added. Drain, and fumet set (see la marinière marinibre (see Surround with Mussels àit la on aa dish. Surround set it on MUSSELS) removed from their shells and de-bearded. Coat MUSSELS) removed with (see SAUCE) to which concentrated to which wirth Marinière Marinibre sauce sauce (see fumet has has been been added. fumet This dish is peeled shrimps. shrimps. is sometimes garnished with peeled large thick soles Sole en la normande. -- Cut Cut 22large matelote ài la en matelote into pieces. pepper and pieces. Season in aa and arrange arrange in Season with with salt salt and and pepper sauté very in which has been been cooked cooked very which aa chopped onion onion has saut6 pan in gently without being allowed to dl. Ü to colour. colour. Pour Pour over over 33 dl. $ pint, llft cups) dry white wine and and aa squeeze squeeze of of lemon juice. Cook pieces and put them in aa them in for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain the the pieces and put Cook for sauté in aa flour flour and and cooked in sauti dish, together with mushrooms cooked water peeled shrimps, Mussels àd la la shrimps, and and Mussels water court-bouillon, court-bouillon, peeled marinière (see MUSSEL) removed removed from from their their shells. shells. Pour mariniire (see over (see SAUCE) incorporating the the sauce (see SAUCE) incorporating over aa Normande Normande sauce cooking Heat the soles soles and and the the mussels. mussels. Heat liquor of of both both the cooking liquor without without allowing allowing to boil. Arrange the garnish with pieces of with the the of sole sole on on aa dish dish and and garnish the pieces mussels, groups. in groups. and the the mushrooms arranged arranged in musselso shrimps, shrimps, and Set ruffi es heated piece, heated in in butter on of each each piece, slices of of ttruffies on top of Set thin thin slices and garnish with in egg and with smelts smelts coated coated in egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and garnish fried, and fried in butter. cro0tons of of bread bread fried and croûtons This dish prepared using using eider as the the cooking cooking dish may may also also be be prepared cider as liquid. liquid. Sole Put the in aa fireproof fireproof dish dish on on aa la ménagère m6nag&re -- Put the sole sole in Sole ài la layer in cooked in celery, chopped chopped and and cooked onion and and celery, layer of of carrots, carrots, onion butter pinch of pepper, aa pinch thyme salt, pepper, of thyme until soft. soft. Season Season with salt, butter until and (6 tablespoons, powdered bay dl. (6 tablespoons, leaf. Moisten Moisten with with 1I dl. and powdered bay leaf. seant in the Drain off off red wine. Cover and and cook cook in the oven. oven. Drain scant 1 cup) red wine. Cover I cup) the Thicken this this with with aa tablespoon tablespoon Kneaded Kneaded wine. Thicken the cooking cooking wine. butter (see BUITER, in extra stir in extra BUTTER, Compound butters), then then stir Compound butters), butter (see butter. in aa hot hot oven. sole with with this this sauce. sauce. Glaze Glaze in oven. Coat the the sole butter. Coat Sole in flour the the sole sole and and cook cook in la meunière meuniire -- Season Season and and flour Sole ài la butter. butter. Set parsley and and with chopped chopped parsley serving dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with Set on on aa serving squeeze juice. Pour Pour over hot few drops drops of lemon juice. over the the hot over aa few of lemon squeeze over cooking cooking butter. butter.

860 860

SOLE Sole ià la normande -- Sole au accompanied by au vin blanc accompanied by a such as complicated as truffies, complicated garnish, including ingredients such which have Normandy cooking. The have no fundamental place place in Normandy dish came from Normandy in the guise of stewed stewed fish fish with cream, being originally prepared with cider instead instead of white garnish. wine. Experts Experts have added a rich garnish. Trim the sole, split it, and raise the fiJlets fillets a little from the Trim skinned side. side. Break or three Break the the backbone in in tlvo two or three places. places. Poach Poach infishfumel in fishfumet made with white wine, nearly boiling, to which the cooking and mushcooking juices of the mussels, oysters and rooms have been added. Drain and wipe remove wipe the fish, and remove the backbone. backbone. g. (14 (14 oz.): Garnish, 400 g. about 400 sole weighing oz.): 4 Garnish, for for a a sole weighing about poached poached and de-bearded de-bearded oysters, 12 mussels mussels cooked in white wine, 25 g. g. (1 (1 oz.) peeled shrimps and and 4 peeled mushrooms gudgeon, 4 cooked in white wine, wine, 6 slices truffies, truffies, 44 fried fried gudgeon, trussed crayfish cooked in court-bouillon, and and 4 croûtons cro0tons of bread bread fried in butter. butter. Coat with Normande Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE) made with with the garnishes: cooked. Add fumet in which the fish was cooked. Add the other garnishes: fumet the truffies, truffies, glazed with fish aspic jelly, jelly, the the oysters oysters and the mushrooms set in a straight middle of straight line down the middle of the fish, the cro0tons croûtons of bread fried fried in in butter alternating alternating with the truffies on top of of the the fish, the fried gudgeon gudgeon and the crayfish arranged arranged on on the sides sides of of the dish. Coat sole with with sauce and Coat the sole pour a ring of of light fish jelly, or meat aspic jelly around the fish. Cro0tons Croûtons of fried fried bread are replaced by small cutare often often replaced puff pastry. pastry. Frequently, Frequently, too, the fried fried gudgeon are outs of puff replaced replaced by by fried smelts. Pflt6 Pâté of of sole sole (hot (hot and and cold). cold). pAr6s PÂTÉS pn DESOLES FROIDS sorss CHAuDS cHAUDs ET FRorDs Iike other fish fish pies, pies, using fillets fiJlets of sole sole (usually -- Prepare like spread with forcemeat and and rolled in paupiettes), paupiettes), Pike forforspread (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) or forcemeat forcemeat made made of any other cemeat (see cemeat of anv (See PATE.) PÂTÉ.) fish, and truffies. (See When these pies pies are to be be served served hot, hot, pour pour into them, When Fishfumet (see (see FUMET) before serving, serving, aa few tablespoons tablespoons of before of Fishfumel rnixed with with cream, or or aa few tablespoons tablespoons of of the accompanying mixed sauce. sauce. When served cold, a a few few tablespoons of Fish aspic When aspic (see through the the hole ho le in the top of the 'lid'. ASPIC) are are poured in through ASPIC) of the'lid'. This should should be be done done only when when the pie is completely cold. sole. pAUpTETTEs PAUPIETTES DE DE sor,Es SOLES - Fillets of sole Paupiettes of sole. forcemeat or or some sorne other mixture, mixture, rolled up spread with aa fish forcemeat a fishfumet, or in butter. butter. and cooked slowly in afishfumet, and sauces sauces used used for fillets fillets of sole sole are Ali the garnishes garnishes and All paupiettes. Rolled paupiettes of sole sole are also applicable to paupiettes. served cold. served Paupiettes of sole Mont-Bry. pAUpTETTEs PAUPIETTES DE DE sot.rs SOLES MONTPaupiettes MoNrBRY Spread fillets fillets thinly thinly with with Fish Fish forcemeat forcemeat (see BRy Spread

paupiettes. Cook gently FORCEMEAT). very gently FORCEMEA T). Roll them in paupiettes. Cook very infishfumel in fishfumet made with white wine. Drainthe andset Drain the paupiettes paupiettes and set each one in a tomato which has been with been cooked in oil and half-filled with risotto seasoned with saffron. Coat Coat the paupiettes with the the cooking saffron. paupiettes with cooking liquor liquor conand mixed mixed with with fresh fresh cream, cream, to which chopped centrated and to which chopped

chervil and tarragon have been added. Paupiettes of sole sole à i lala nissarde. PAUPIETTES IAUITETTES DE Paupiettes DE SOLES soLrs ÀA LA LA (see NISSARDE -- Spread with Pike NISSARDE forcemeat (see Spread the the fillets fillets with Pike forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) finished off FORCEMEA T) finished off with wth Anchovy Anchovy essence essence (see pur6e and chopped paupiettes. ESSENCE) or purée in paupiettes. chopped parsley. Roll Rollin Poach these in concentrated fumet, drain them, these in Poach them, and and set set fumet, drain each into into half aa courgette cooked each cooked in in butter butter and and slightly slightly hollowed out. Place on a dish. Boil down the pur6e and Boildown the cooking cooking liquor, liquor, add tomato purée add tomato and paupiettes. Sprinkle butter, blend, blend, and butter, and pour over over the paupiettes. Sprinkle with grated Parmesan and a few drops of oil. Brown in the oven. pAUpTETTEs DE Paupiettes of Paupiettes SOLE PAILLARDPaillard. PAUPIETTES DE'soLE IATLLARD of sole Paillard. 'Lay out on the table the flattened flattened fiJlets fillets of sole. sole. Season Season and and (see FORCEMEAT) spread them thinly with Fishforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) puree. Roll finished off with finished with mushroom mushroom purée. Roll them them into into corkcorkshaped pieces. Put them into aa sauté saut6 pan lined with chopped chopped garni and onions onions and and mushrooms, add add aa bouquet garni and moisten fishfumet or dry white wine. Cook, covered, in the oven with withfishfumet for 12 minutes. minutes. 'Drain the paupiette,s, 'Drain paupiettes, arrange in aa deep, arrange them them in deep, buttered dish, cover cover and keep warm. wann. 'Strain the cooking 'Strain cooking liquor through through muslin and add to it an pur6e,22 egg (+ equal equal quantity of mushroom purée, e1g yolks and and 2 dl. dl. (t pint, scant cup) fresh cream. Bringjust Bring just to the boil, whisking whisking ail all the time, and add the seasoning. 'Coat the pauplettes paupiettes with with this this sauce, sauce, glaze in aa very very hot $aze in oven, and serve immediately.' immediately.' (A. Deland, formerly formerly head chef at the Re Restaurant Paillard.) s t aur ant P aillar d.l Restaurant Paillard, these paupiettes paupiet tes were served on At the Restaurant on artichoke artichoke bottoms. (I2 oz.): Sole g. (12 Sofe à Ia paysanne -- For aa sole weighing 350 g. i la Cook a carro carrot,t, an onion, a tender tender stick of of celery and the white part of of aa leek gently in butter, seasoning them with salt and aa pinch of of sugar. When When cooked, cooked, moisten moisten them withjust with just enough waml warrn water to cover them. Add Add 1I tablespoon dieed diced French beans and 1I tablespoon tabIespoon fresh green peas. peas. Finish cooking the boiling down the liquid aa little. vegetables together, together, boiling pepper, into aa buttered Put the sole, seasoned seasoned with salt and pepper, earthenware dish. Cover with the vegetable mixture and and its cooking uid, and drain off as cooking Iiquor. liquor. Poaeh Poach the sole in this liq liquid, offas possible, boiling boiling down the liquid. Add 15 much as as possible, l5 g. (! oz., 1I $ oz., tablespoon) butter, stirring stirring weIl. well. Pour this sauce over the sole and glaze in a hot oven. This method of preparation preparation is This method is sometimes sometimes described described on is more logical to cali menus as sole à d la russe, russe, but it is call it ài la because the vegetables are cooked àh la paysanne because la paysanne. PILAF DE SOLES Pilaf of sole. ptur soI-Es -- Cut the fiUets fillets of sole into small square butter. Add small in butter. square pieces and and sauté saut6 them them in Add sliced mushrooms, also sautéed mushrooms. saut6ed in butter. Set the fish in the middle of pilaf (see PILAF) shaped into aa border mould. mould. Coat of Rice pilaf sauce or Normande Normande sauce (see SA U CE.) the fish with Tomato sauce SAUCE.) butter, seasoned Sole sur le plat -- Put aa little butter, seasoned with salt and and pepper, inside aa sole whose fillets fiJlets have have been slightly raised, and set set in a buttered fireproof dish. Season further with salt and pepper. Moisten with tablespoons, seant! with 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant j cup) fishfumet and and aa few drops of ail pieces of frshfumet lemon juice. Dot sm small of lemon butter over butter over the fish. Cook in the oven, in the frequently, until oven, basting frequently, until the liquor is is reduced to aa syrupy reduced syrupy consistency consistency and and has has given the the sole sole aa was cooked. blonde glaze. Serve Serve in the dish in which it was Sole sur le le plat may also be prepared replacing the fumet the fumet wine, Chablis, dry with wine: Alsace wine, dry Champagne, Champagne, Cassis, Cassis,

Paupiettes of of sole sole Mont-Bry Mont-Bry Paupiettes

861 861

SOLILEM Red Red wine wine used used to to poach poach fish may may be be of of any any of of aa number number of of

Sauternes, Monbazillac, Monbazillac, Seyssel, Jurangon, Jurançon, Muscadet, Muscadet, vln vin Sauternes, rost, rosé, various red red wines of of Burgundy, Bordelais and and other other regions, regions. Poached Poached sole, sole, various various sauceri. sauces. soLE SOLE BoUILLIE, nOUfLLlE, pocnfrPOCHÉE - Cook the sole in a stock or court-bouillon courl-bouillon made of of milk milk and water water seasoned with with salt. saIL Drain Drain and and set set on on a a perforated perforated dish. dish, seasoned Garnish Garnish with parsley parsley and boiled boilcd potatoes. potatoes, Serve Servc with melted melted butter or or a sauce sauce suitable suitable for for poached poached fish:. fish, Hollandaise, Hollandaise, Fines butter etc, (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE), herbes, Lobster, Lobster, etc. herbes, portugaise - Put the the seasoned seasoned sole sole into a fireproof lireproof Sole ià la portugaisedish lined with cooked tomatoes mixed with chopped onion onion cooked cooked in oil and seasoned seasoned with a little little garlic. garlic, Moisten Moisten with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons)flshfumel tablespoons) fishfumel and 33 to to 44 tablespoons tablespoons (4 to 5 tablespoons) tablespoons) olive olive oil. oiL Cook Cook in the the oven, oven, basting basting often. orten, Sprinkle the the sole sole with with breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and and brown brown lightly. lightly, lemon juice. Add Add chopped chopped parsley parsley and a few drops of oflemonjuice, provençale -- Put the seasoned sole into an oiled Sole ià la provengale Moisten with I1dl. dL (6tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, scantlcup) seant tcup) frshfumet lishfiltnel dish, Moistenwith dish. with a little Sprinkle over little garlic. garlic, Sprinkle over a tablespoon of of oil and cook cook almost cooked, surround in in the the oven, When almost surround with with halved oven. When saut6ed in oil. tomatoes sauteed oiL Set 4 slices of peeled lemon on the fish, Sprinkle with breadcrumbs and and finish finish cooking in in the fish. Sprinkle with serve in the cooking chopped parsley oven. Sprinkle with chopped oven, parsley and serve cooking dish, dish. sole in butter soI,Es -- Cook fillets of of sole Purée PURÉE DE SOLES Pur6e ofsole. of sole. pun6n sieve. Bind with Bichamel and press through through a fine sieve, Béchamel sauce or SAUCE). saucemixed fish Velouté mixed with cream (see SAUCE), with fish Veloutt sauce flaky pastry, mostly as as aa filling for is used This lilling filling is This used mostly for flaky similar preparations. patties, barquettes or similar patties, tartlets, barquettes preparations, sorrs -- Quenelle of sole. QUENELLES QueneUes eusNerl-Es DE SOLES Quenelle forcemeat Quenelles of prepared in the same way as Pikeforcemeat. with sole is prepared thesame Pikeforcemeat, made with FORCEMEAT.) (See QUENELLE T.) QUENELLE and FORCEMEA puffpastry cro0tons of of It is set on eut-out cut-out pieces of of puff lt pastry or oval croûtons prescribed garnish prescribed fried in butter, and accompanied accompanied by garnish bread fned of sole, and coated with sauce to blend with the rest for fillets of of of the dish, dish. whole sole in the same way Prepared with aa whole Richelieu -, Sole Sole Richelieu - Prepared of sole Richelieu. as Fillets of Richelieu, DE SOLES soI.rs -- Made of of Pilaf sole. RISOTTO RISorro DE Risotto of sole. Pilaf of sole of pilaf rice. with Risollo with Risotto (see RICE) instead ofpilafrice, shellfish may be mussels or shrimps or any other shcilfish Shelled mussels dishes, as weil well as mushrooms, mushrooms. added to these dishes, See Sole So/e àit la paysanne. Sole ài la russe -- See paysanne, is mainly mainly applied to to This method is Sole Sole Saint-Germain -- This fish. fillets of fish, with the sole sole with with butter and and breadcrumbs, sprinkle with Coat the Coat grill at Set on on aa at aa low heat. Set and cook uunder melted butter, and nder the grill and cut to to look like like olives olives and with potatoes eut hot dish, dish, surround with hot (see SA SAUCE). Biarnaise sauce sauce (see Serve with Béarnaise cooked UCE), cooked in butter. Serve DE SOLES Prepare with sole. COQUILLES coeunlEs DE sot-Es -- Preparewith shells of sole. Scallop Scallop shells (see in scallop shells shells (see in butter, butter, like Brill in fillets of of sole sole cooked cooked in fillets BRILL) BRILL). Prepare with with the the AUX CREVETTES cRBvETTES -- Prepare shrimpe. SOLE soLE AUX Sole with sluimps. Sole poached in in aa fish that isis almost almost boiling, boiling. sole poached fish fumet whole sole whole fumet tbat mussels dish, and surround with with mussels and surround Drain the the sole, sole, set set on on aa dish, Drain peeled shrimps. with White shrimps. Coat Coat with While in white white wine, wine, and and peeled cooked in cooked (see SAUCE), glaze in it is, is, or in aa hot oven, oven. Serve as as it or glaze wine sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Serve wine sole vIN ROUGE RoucE -- Season Season the the sole with red red wioe. wine. SOLE soLE AU AU VIN Sole with Sole pepper. Put in aa baking layer of of dish on Put itit in baking dish on aa layer with salt salt and and pepper. with which have been tossed in butter. onions and carrots carrots which chopped on chopped ions and piece of thyme, aa piece of bay bay leaf leaf and and mushroom Add aa sprig sprig of of thyme, Add pieces of Poach, the fish fish with Dot the with tiny pieces of butter. Poach, skins. Dot the top of of the skins, Drain, dry, dry, trim trim and and remove remove the the in the the oven, oven. Drain, covered, covered, in backbone, backbone. its cooking finished off off dish, and coat with with its cooking liquor finished Set on on aa dish, and coat Set given elsewhere for Red Red wine wine to tbe the instructions instructions given elsewhere for according to according (see SAUCE), with mushrooms mushrooms and and SAUCE). Garnish Garnish with sauce for fish sauce fis& (see white onions. onions. small small white

different vintages, Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Burgundy, Burgundy, C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne, Rhône, Touraine, Touraine, etc. etc, Vin Vin ordinaire ordinaire may may also be be used. used, Sole Sole with wilh white wine. wine. soLE SOLE AU AU vIN VIN BLANc BLANC --- Poach Poach the the sole sole very gently in in afumet afwnel made made with with white white wine. wine, Drain Drain the the fish, fish, trim trim it, it, remove remove the tbe backbone. backbone, Coat with with a a White White wine sauce sauce prepared prepared with with the fumet fwnet in in which which the the fish fish was was cooked, cooked, according to to one one of of the the recipes recipes given given for for this this sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE), glazein Serve Serve as as itit is or or glaze in aa very very hot hot oven. oven,

SOLILEM SOLILEM or or SOLIMEMESOLIMEME - Cake, Cake, Alsatian Alsatian in in origin. origin,

cups) Ingredients.500 lngTedients, 500 g. g, (l (1 lb.2 lb, 2 oz,4f oz" cups) sifted sifted flour, flour, 125 125 e. g, G (4 g. (t oz., g. (t oz,lJ tablespoon) sugar, 15 oz., oz.,tcup) butter, 15 J5g,(toz., tablespoon)sugar, 15g,(!oz" f cup) butter, cake) yeast, yeast, I1 dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant It cup) cup) cream, cream, 44 eggs, eggs, It cake) l0 10 g. g, (l| (lt teaspoons) teaspoons) salt. Method. Melhod, Make Make aa paste paste with with aa quarter quarter of of the the flour, flour, the the yeast yeast and a little little warm water. Leave Leave in in a warm warm place place to to rise. rise, Add Add 2 eggs eggs and 1 dl. (3 (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant * cup) cup) of of the the + dl. and knead cream. cream, Add Add the the rest rest of of the the flour flour and knead the the dough. dough, ofthe Incorporate Incorporate in this this paste the butter, butter, the rest of the cream cream and the eggs, eggs, added little little by by little. Iiltlc, Beat the the dough. dough, It It should should be be it is it ifif il quite quite soft, and may have have aa little little more more cream cream added to to il is too firm. firrn, dough. Leave to Half-fill Half-fill a round buttered mould mouJd with with the dough, ta in cut in Turn the cake out oven. Turn rise. rise, Bake in the oven, out of of the the mould, mould, Cut slightly salted salted sprinkle each each layer two two layers, layers, sprinkle layer with with melted, melted, slightly serve very butter. Put the tbe two pieces pieces together and serve very hot. hot.

41

±

ANcUMEUX -- Plant SEAL. MUGUET SOLOMON'S SEAL. SOLOMON'S MUGUET ANGUMEUX Plant found round in in like young shoots shoots are cdible edible and are prepared woods. The young the woods. prepared like asparagus. asparagus, as sceau sceau de Salomon, Solomon. This plant plant is also known as

of the the care of charged with SOMMELIER -- Employee charged SOMMELIER with the the care with the the religious order concerned with of a religious order concerned or a member of cellars or ceUars wine. convent con vent plate, linen, bread and wine, wines, in charge is in charge oftbe of the wincs, restaurants the sommelier sommelier is In ln large restaurants The wine sold in the the restaurant. the wine sold in in tbe the cellar and and the both in restaurant. The in aa large large establishment establishment demands sommelier in function of of aa sommelier function how of wines. He must also understand extensive knowledge ofwines, understand how particular foods, foods. with particular to choose wines to blend with group of persons engaged in engaged in of persons is either either aa group A sommellerie sommellene is A household, or or drinks in in aa royal royal household, and drinks after the cellars and looking arter in notably in done, notably work of of the sommelier sommelier is donc, the place where the work convents. monasteries and convents, monasteries given to the to the the servants of of the Name formcrly formerly givcn SOMMIER -' Name SOMMlER French palace of of the the French pantry and in the the palace and sommellerie sommellerie in kitchen, pantry kings. kings,

of the the Fruit of the sorb, sorb, aa tree tree of of the sonnr -- Fruit SORB-APPLE. SORBE The rowan rowan or or varieties are known: The family. Two Two varietie:; are known: Rosaceae family, Rosaceae thrushes, are are by thrushes, fruits, much much rclished relished hy whose fruits, mountain ash, csft, whose mountain for distilling; distilling; and and in some districts districts for astringent but used in highly astringent when overoveredible when fruits become edible or service service tTee ffeewhose the sorb or the whose fruits kind of of eider. cider. serve to make aa kind and serve ripe and SHERBETS. See SHERBETS, SORBETS-- See SORBETS long of Africa Africa but but long Cereal, native native of soRcHo -- Cereal, SORGHUM. SORGHO SORGHUM. of It isis aa kind kind of Europe and and China, China. lt in southern southern Europe cultivated in cultivaled porridges and grain isis used flat make porridges and fiat mostly to to make millet. Its Its grain used mostly millet. high contain aa high serve for for fodder, fodder, comain stalks, which which serve cakes; the the stalks, cakes; make aa fennented fermented percentage of and can can be be used used to to make of sugar sugar and drink. drink, perennial herb which dates dates back back Hardy perennial herb which oSEILLE -- Hardy SORREL. OSEILLE SORREL. grows wild in Asia, Asia, Europe Europe wild today today in B.C. and and still still grows 300 Re. before 300 beforc is also cultivated. America. ItIt 1S also cultivated, and North America, and English herb; herb; itit was Iisted listed as as an an English In the century the thirteenth thirteenth cent ln ury itit was The soups and and sauces. sauces. The in the making of of soups used in the making has long long been been used has 862 862

SOUFFLES SOUFFLÉS (generous 1I lb., g. (generous with aa forcemeat made of 500 lb., 22 cups) 500 g.

(7 oz., g. (7 sausage meat, 200 cups) diced diced streaky bacon, bacon, oz., lj 11- cups) sausage 200 g. (4 oz., g. (4 blanched and and fried, fried, 100 oz., 1I cup) cup) chopped 100 g. chopped onion, lightly cooked in butter, 250 g. (9 oz., oz,3| and 31- cups) blanched blanched and chopped chopped beetroot leaves, leaves, 2 peeled peeled and chopped chopped tomatoes, 100 gt (4 oz., gr (4 oz., tf cup) blanched peas, 100 g. oz.,l~ cup) fresh peas, g; blanched rice, the chopped chopped cabbage cabbage heart, heart, chopped parsley, parsley, crushed garlic, pepper. salt and pepper. Reform Reform the cabbage, wrap in muslin, and cook for 3 hours in a mutton or ordinary ordinary pot-au-feu. Serve with Tomato Serve Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). SOUFFLÉS -- Sweet Sweet and made of savoury, made SOLTFT'LES and savoury, of ingredients cooked to a pur6e, purée, thickened with egg yolks and and with stiff:ly stifly whites folded in, poured into a soufflé beaten egg whites souffi6 dish or into cassolettes and baked baked in the oyen. cassolettes oven. The same same name name has has been been extended extended to to include The include quite different preparations, preparations, more more like mousses mousses or different or mousselines, mousselines, served either hot or orcold. served cold. Small souffi6s soufflés are are made in in cassolettes of fireproof proSmall goffered paper ovenproof glass or metal or in special goffered celain, ovenproof cases. Prepare the souffiE soufflé mixture according to the recipe. Turn Prepare the mixture into the buttered cassolettes, filling these threequarters full. Smooth the the surface. and cook in aa cool Set the cassolettes on a baking sheet and oyen for 88 to 12 12 minutes. Serve Serve immediately, immediately. oven True souffi6s soufflés are are divided into into two two main main categories: categories: savoury True soufflés, served served as as hors-d hors-d' euvres œuvres or or small small entr6es entrées or soufr6s, or sometimes sometimes as a savoury, and sweet sweet soufr6s. soufflés. as

Sorb-apples Sorb-apples on 00 branch branch

young young under-leaves under-Ieaves ofthis of this plant, also called sour grass, grass, are used used as as salad greens greens or or as aa vegetable. vegetable. Braised Braised sorrel sorrel or or sorrel sorrel pur6e. purée. osErLLE OSElLLE BRArsfE, BRAISÉE, eUREE PURÉE o'ossus D'OSEILLEPut 1kg. kg. (z+lb.) (2t lb.) sorrel, sorrel, picked picked over over and washed in - Put'l several waters, waters, into aa big big saucepan. saucepan. Moisten with j1- dl. (3 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant *".rp) tcup) water water and cook cook on on slow slow heat heat until it goes down in in volume. volume. Drain Drain in a sieve. sieve. goes down Prepare Prepare aa blond blond roux roux (q.v.) made of 60 g. (2 oz., f,t cup) butter butter and and 30 30 g. g. (l (1 oz.,l oz., t cup) cup) flour. flour. Mix Mix well, weil, add 66 dl. (l (1 pint, 2j 21- cups) cups) white white stock, stock, season season with with salt salt and aa little little castor castor sugar, sugar, cover pan and and cook cook in in the the oven oyen for for 22 hours. hours. coyer the the pan Rub Rub the the sorrel through through aa fine fine sieve sieve and and put itit back back in the the pan pan to to reheat. reheat. Bind Bind with with aa liaison liaison of of 33 whole whole eggs (or (or 66 yolks), yolks), beaten, scant {1- cup) cream, cream, beaten, mixed mixed with with I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant strained g. (5 oz., oz., l0 10 tablespoons) tablespoons) strained and and blended blended with 150 150 g. butter. butter. Stir Stir well. weil. Add Add to to the the roux. roux. Chiffonnade of of sorrel. sorre!. cHTFFoNNADE CHIFFONNADE D'osErLLE D'OSEILLE -- Pick over. over, CNffonnade wash wash and and shred shred the the sorrel into afine a fine julienne. julienne. Simmer Simmer gently gently in in butter butter until until all ail the the water water has has evaporated. evaporated. Chiffonnade of sorrel in in butter butter is is used used as as an element of Chiffonnade garnish garnish for for various various dishes. dishes. (See (See SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS; BROTHS; EGGS, EGGS, Somel Sorrelomelette.) omelette.) Chiffonnade Chiffonnade of of sorrel sorrel with with cream. cream. cHTFFoNNADn CHIFFONNADE n'osErrI.E D'OSEILLE A À rn LA cnim CRÈME -- Cook Cook the the chiffonnade chiffonnade on on slow slow heat heat until until itit goes goes down down in in volume, volume, as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe. When When the liquid liquid is is completely completely evaporated, evaporated, moisten moisten with a a few few the tablespoons fresh fresh double double cream. cream. Simmer Sim mer for for aa few few minutes. minutes. tablespoons T\is used for for the the same same purposes purposes as as the the sorrel sorrel chffinnade chiffonnade T'lis isis used cooked with with butter. butter. cooked CONSER VE o'osErLLE D'OSEILLE -- Pick Pick over, over, wash wash and Preserved sorrel. sorreI. coNssnvB Preserved cook the the sorrel sorrel slowly slowly as as described described above. above. Dry off off thorthorcook oughly, extracting extracting all ail the the water. water. Compress Compress itit into into aa stone stone jar jar oughly, with aa wide wide neck. neck. Cool. Cool. Pour Pour over over aa thick thick layer layer of of clarified clarified with beef fat to to seal seal itit and and keep keepin cool place. place. beeffat in aa cool Sorrel can can also also be be bottled bottled by by putting putting it, it, after after itit is is cooked, cooked, Sorrel into jars jars or or cans cans and and treating treating them them in in aa steriliser steriliser in in the the usual usual into manner. manner.

SA VOURY SOUFFLES. SOUFFLÉS. sourrr6s SOUFFLÉS DE cursrNE CUISINE - Prepare Prepare the SAVOURY basic ingredient, ingredient, whether pur6e purée of meat, meat, fish, fish, shellfish or basic vegetable, or or aa bouillie. vegetable, Bind this ingredient, ingredient, away away from the heat, with 3 egg yolks Bind of the the mixture. Season Season quite strongly strongly for every 250 g. (9 oz.) of to compensate compensate for the weakening effect of adding egg so as to whites. Mix. Mix. whites. 3 or or 4 4 stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten egg egg whites whites and and mix Incorporate 3 quickly, quickly, but but do not not beat. beat. Fill a buttered soufr6 soufflé dish dish with this to within within a finger's breadth from the top. top. Smooth mixture to the surface. surface. Cook Cook in in a a moderate oven oyen for 20 20 to to 25 over the Serve immediately. immediately. minutes. Serve The same same method method is is used used to to cook cook small small soufrEs soufflés in In The cassolettes. cassolettes. Brain soufr6. soufflé. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ DE cERvELLT CERVELLE - Bind 250 g. (9 oz.,1 oz., 1 Brain cup) Brain purte purée (see (see PUREE) PURÉE) with l{ 11- dl. $ (;l: pint, pint, $~ cup) thick cup) Brain Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Season with salt, pepper and Btchamel grated nutmeg. nutmeg. grated Add 33 egg yolks, yolks, and fold in 33 stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten egg egg whites. whites. Fill Add buttered souffiE soufflé dish dish with with the the mixture. mixture. Finish Finish as as above. above. aa buttered chanoinesse. sourrr6 SOUFFLÉ on DE cnnveI,rE CERVELLE A À rn LA soufflé ià la chanoinesse. Brain sorff6 CHANOINESSEPrepare the the mixture mixture as as above. above. Add 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., cHANoINEsse - Prepare grated Parmesan Parmesan and 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) *1- cup) grated fi nejulienne. julienne. Finish Finish as as above. above. truffles cut cut in in aa fine truffies Brain soufr6s soufflés are are often served served as as an an hors-deuvre hors-cf œuvre and Brain and cooked in in cassolettes cassolettes as as for for small small souffi6s. soufflés. cooked Calf's liver or or chicken chicken liver liver soufr6. soufflé. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ ps DE norn FOIE DE DE vEAU, VEAU, Calf 's liver Pound in a mortar mortar 250 g. (9 oz.) diced diced FOIES DE DE voLAILLE VOLAILLE -- Pound FoIEs calf's liver, saut6ed sautéed in in butter butter and and mixed mixed with with 35 35 g. (l| (11- o2,3 oz., 3 's liver, calf butter and and I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant it cup) tablespoons) butter tablespoons) thick bichamel béchamel sauce. sauce. Season. Season. thick through aa strainer. strainer. Add Add 22 egg egg yolks yolks and and 33 beaten beaten egg egg Press through Press whites. Finish Finish as as above. above. whites. prepared in in the the same same way. way. Chicken liver liver souffi6 soufflé isis prepared Chicken SOUFFLÉ lu AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE- Make white roux roux of Cheese sonfr6. soufflé. sourrrt Cheese - Make aawhite 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., tt cup) butter, 60 60 e. g; Qi (21- oz., oz., I~ cup) flour and and 22 dl. (+ (~ 50 cup) butter, cup) flour pint, scant scant cup) cup) milk. milk. Season Season with with salt, pepper pepper and grated pint, nutmeg. Stir Stir over over strong strong heat heat until until boiling. boiling. nutmeg.

SOT-L'Y-LAISSE -- This This term, term, meaning meaning 'a 'a fool foolleaves it', isis SOT-L'Y-LAISSE leaves it',

used to to describe describe the the small small piece piece of of flesh flesh situated situated above above the the used parson's parson's nose nose of ofa chicken or orother fowl which which isis considered considered aa a chicken other fowl French cookery cookery 'ragofits 'ragoûts ofsot-l'yjlaisse'are of sot-l'y~laisse' are delicacy. In In old old French delicacy. often mentioned. mentioned. often SOUBISE -- Pur6e Purée of of onions onions and and rice rice used used as as an an accompaniaccompaniSOUBISE ment to to various various cuts cuts of ofmeat, meat, large large and and small. smal!. (See (See PUREE.) PURÉE.) ment SOU-FASSUM (Nice (Nice cookery)cookery) - Stuffed Stuffed cabbage. cabbage. Blanch Blanch the the SOU-FASSUM cabbage as as for for Stuffed Stuffed cabbage cabbage (see (see CABBAGE), CABBAGE), and and stuff stuff cabbage 863 863

SOUFFLES SOUFFLÉS g. 250 g. mortar 250 in aa mortar Pound in oE GIBIER cIsrun -- Pound sourrd DE Game soufflé. souffi6. SOUFFLÉ (+ pint, pint, ~tcup) sauce game with Btchamel sauce (9 oz.) l+ dl. dl. (t with 11oz) cooked game (9 cup) Béchamel sieve. and sieve. (see SAUCE) Season and ongamefumet. SAUCE) based on (see gamefumet. Season in as in whites. Finish Finish as yolks and 33 stiffly egg whites. stiffy beaten egg Add 3 egg yolks

recipes. the preceding preceding recipes. as an an hors-d'œuvre. hors'deuvre. in cassolettes cassolette.s as Chiefly served in ps GIBIER rl crsnR ÀA LA soun'rrf DE la Périgueux. P6rigueux. SOUFFLÉ soufr6 ài la Game soufflé Game pfrucwux -- Add tablespoons mixture 22 tablespoons above mixture Add to to the the above PÉRIGUEUX as above. above. truffies. Finish Finish as chopped truffles. tablespoons) chopped (3 tablespoons) g. (9 (9 with 250 250 g. Proceed, with DE JAMBON JAMBoN -- Proceed, sourrrf DE soufl6. SOUFFLÉ Ham soufflé. for Game as for Game soufflé. soffit. ham, as cooked ham, oz.) lean cooked as an deuvre., an d'œuvre cassolettes as Served chiefly in cassolettes Served re, oB JAMBON leunou ÀA LA sourrrfi DE la strasbourgeoise. strasbourgeoise. SOUFFLÉ soufr6 àdr la Ham souffié (see PU third purte (see PUREE) one third t o Ham purée srRAsBouRcEolse -- Add to RÉE) one STRASBOURGEOISE gras and chopped tablespoon chopped and'l1 tabJespoon de foie gras its weight of of Pâté PAft de of its preceding recipes. recipes. as in the preceding truffies. Finish as truffles. for Brain Brain as for Prepare aa mixture mixture as la hongroise -- Prepare Sorffi6 ài la Soufflé (3 tablespoons) onion chopped onion tablespoons) chopped tablespoons (3 adding 22 tablespoons soffii, adding soufflé, paprika, and and 22 with paprika, and seasoned seasoned with till soft soft and in butter butter till cooked in cooked in saut6ed in (3 tablespoons) diced mushrooms mushrooms sautéed tablespoons) diced tablespoons (3 tablespoons preceding recipes. recipes. in the the preceding Finish off offas butter. Finish as in as an an hors-d'œuvre. hors'deuvre. cassolettes as served in cassolettes Chiefly served DE TOPINAMBOURS ToPINAMBoURS -soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrlE DE artichoke soufflé. Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem using aa souffii using way as as for for Potato Potato soufflé same way in the the same Proceed in Proceed potato (see PURÉE) instead of of potato pur\e (see PUREE) instead artichoke purée Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem pur6e. purée. for Proceed as as for DE LAITUES LAITUES -- Proceed sourrrf DE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Iettuce soufflé. Lettuce chopped with braised braised,, chopped the chicory chicory with replacing the Chicory souffi4, replacing Chicory soufflé, if liked. liked. added, if may be be added, Grated Parmesan Parmesan may lettuces. Grated lettuces. for as for Proceed as DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Proceed sourrrt DE Lobster soufflé. sorffE. SOUFFLÉ Lobster pur6e.. with lobster lobster purée shrimps with the shrimps replacing the Shrimp souffi2, replacing Shrimp soufflé, meat with the the meat Proceed with DE VIANDES vIANDES -- Proceed sourrr6 DE Meat Meat soufflé. souffi6. SOUFFLÉ for this this used for Any meat may be be used meat may souffi|. Any as for CalFs liver soufflé. Calf 's /iver as for to the the according to poached or and according or braised, braised, and if itit has has been soufflé souffi6 if been poached sauce or any any other other sauce veloutb sauce sauce or sauce, velouté kind kind ofmeat, of meat, béchamel btchamel sauce, pur6e. the purée. bind the meat isis used to bind used to with the the meat that will blend that will blend with (3 Blend 75 75 g.g. (3 AU PARMESAN PARMESAN -- Blend Parmesan sourrr6 AU soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Parmesan soufflé. milk. pint, scant scant cup) cup) boiled boiled milk. dl. d· flour with with 22 dl. oz., sifted flour oz., ~cup) $ pint, f, cup) sifted grated nutmeg. nutmeg. pepper and Season and grated with salt, salt, pepper Season with heat and and take off offthe then take good heat Stir the heat until boiling, boiling, then heat until over good Stir over grated Parmesan, 25 g.g. (lQ oz. oz,, 22 (2 oz., g. (2 Parmesan, 25 add oz., t* cup) grated 50 g. add 50 Finish yolks and whites. Finish beaten whites. and 33 beaten tablespoons) 3 egg egg yolks butter, 3"np) tablespoons) butter, preceding recipes. recipes. as in the the preceding as in as an Also œuvre. in cassolettes an hors-d' hors-dGuvre. served in cassolettes as Also served dl. (~(A Bind 44dl. DBTERRE rERRE -- Bind Potato DE POMMES PoMMEs DE sourrrf DE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Potato soufflé. (see POT with 44 purte (see POTATOES) pint, A TOES) with pint, scant Potato purée cups) Potato scant 22 cups) yolks and and33 (* cup) egg yolks Add 33 egg tablespoons Season. Add cup) cream. cream. Season. tablespoons (~ way. beaten in the the usual Finish in usual way. whites. Finish egg whites. beaten egg AU DETERRE TERRE AU DEPOMMES PoMMESDE Potato sourrlt DE cheese.SOUFFLÉ with cheese. Potato soufflé souffi6 with g.(2 (2oz., pur6e 50 oz.,1* cup) cup) FROMAGE to the 50 g. adding to the purée As above, above, adding FRoMAGE -- As grated grated Gruyère Parmesan. or Pannesan. Gruydre or rERRE ÀA DETERRE Potatosoufflé la hongroise. or POMMES PoMMEs DE sourrrf DE hongroise. SOUFFLÉ Potato souffi6 àila chopped onion onion LA incorporating chopped As above, above, incorporating LA HONGROISE HoNcRoIse -- As potato paprika inin the softened the potato with paprika seasoned with in butter and seasoned butter and softened in purée. pur6e. with Sweet Proceed with DEPATATES PATATEs - - Proceed potato soufflé. sourrrf DE souffi6. SOUFFLÉ Sweet potato sweet souffi0. pur6e in asfor for Potato Potatosoufflé. potato purée in the same way wayas the same sweet potato Shrimp DECREVETTES (or other cREVETTES sourrrEDE crustacean). SOUFFLÉ other crustacean). soufr6 (or Shrimp soufflé (seePURÉE) -- Bind ~cup) Shrimp purte (see with'11-lj (7 oz., PUREE) with g. (7 Shrimp purée oz.,?"up) Bind 200 ZOO g. (seeSAUCE) which dl. t, ~3cup) thick towhich SAUCE) to (f pin pint, Bichamel sauce sauce(see thick Béchamel dl. (t ".rp) the added. hasbeen been added. shrimps has from the theshrimps liquor from reduced cooking cooking liquor the reduced Add whites. Finish Finishasasinin in33beaten yolksand egg whites. andfold fold in beatenegg Add 33egg egg yolks the preceding recipes. recipes. the preceding Prawn, are crab soufflés souffi6sare andcrab spiny lobster lobsterand lobster,spiny Prawn, crayfish, crayfish, lobster, prepared me way flesh theflesh shrimpsor orthe salpicon of of slllimps prepared in way.. AA salpicon in the the sa same of mixture. to the the mixture. may be be added added to used may the shellfish shellfish used of the These hors-d'œuvre, cooked cooked anhors-deuvre, servedas asan are chiefly chieflvserved souffi6sare These soufflés in in cassolettes. cassolettes.

soufl6 Cheese soufflé

Gruydre, oz.,*1- cup) grated Gruyère, Remove from from heat, add 50 g. (2 OZ., Remove "up)as above. above. 33 egg yolks and 3 beaten egg whites. Finish served as as an an This mixture mixture is also cooked in cassolettes cassolettes and served hors-d' œuvre. hors-deuvre. Dutch Soufflés are also made with Parmesan, Cheddar or Dutch Souffi6s cheese. with Proceed with Chestnut DE MARRONS MARRoNs -- Proceed sourrrf DE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Chestnut soufflé. chestnut purée, as for Potato soufflé. souffi|. asfor chestnut pur6e, souBIsE -Chestnut DE MARRONS MARRoNS SOUBISE sourrlf DE soufl6 soubise. soubise. SOUFFLÉ Chestnut soufflé Prepare the basic mixture two-thirds in the usual way, way, using two-trurds mixture in Prepare PUREE).. Chestnut purée and one-third Onion soubise 1/(see (see PURÉE) andone-third Chestnut purte Chicken in aa mortar mortar Pound in voLAILLE -- Pound sourrlf DE VOLAILLE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ Chicken soufflé. 250 with 22 to to 33 (9 oz.) meat with g. (9 white chicken chicken meat cooked white oz.) cooked 250 g. (3 to thick béchamel bbchamel sauce. tablespoons) thick to 44 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 Season Season and press through a sieve. Cool, add '1 tablespoon butter and egg mix. Incorporate Incorporate 33 egg and mix. add'l yolks and 33 beaten egg whites. Finish as as above. above. guinea fowl. This recipe applies to crucken, fowl. The The and guinea chicken, turkey and mixture hors-d Guvre. in cassolettes as an an hors-d'œuvre. cassolettes as mixture can be served in Chlcken rA, DE VOLAILLE voLAILLS ÀA LA sourrrf DE la mirepoix. SOUFFLÉ sorfi6 àd la Chicken soufflé MIREPOIX prepared as as above, above, 22 mixture prepared Add to to the the mixture MrREporx -- Add (see tablespoons (3 tablespoons) mirepoix (see Vegetable mirepoix tablespoons) Vegetable tablespoons (3 MIREPOIX) as above. above. MIREPOIX).. Finish as Chicken (souffi6 ài la on sourrrf DE la reine). reine). SOUFFLÉ trufles (soufflé soufr6 with truffles Chicken soufflé prepared as VOLA1LLE as mixture, prepared Add to to the the mixture, AUx TRUFFES TRUFFES -- Add VoLATLLE AUX above, 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) truffies. tablespoons) chopped chopped truffies. tablespoons (3 (9 oz.) Chicory soufflé. g. (9 250 g. oz.) Dry 250 os CHICORÉE crilcoRfn -- Dry sournrE DE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ sieved to shaking to stirring and and shaking heat, stirring chicory over over heat, sieved braised braised chicory prevent sticking. Chicory soufflé lu or CHICORÉE cruconEn AU souFFLf DE with Parmesan. Parmesan. SOUFFLÉ soufrG with PARMESAN g. mixture with with 60 60 g. finishing the the mixture above, finishing Proceed as as above, eARMESAN -- Proceed (21~ cup) grated Parmesan (2L., oz., Parmesan.. cup) grated o2.,3 Crayfish u, D'fcnev$sns ÀA LA sourrlf D'ÉCREVISSES la normande. normande. SOUFFLÉ souffi6 ài la Crayfish soufflé NORMANDE - Prepare the way as as for for in the same way mixture in the same the basic basic mixture NoRMANDE-Prepare Shrimp similar (see below). with aa similar the shrimps shrimps with Replace the below). Replace soffit (see Shrimp soufflé quantity quantity of of crayfish. crayfish. Turn the layers of of the souffi6 dish, dish, alternating alternating layers into aa buttered Turn into buttered soufflé soufflé poached and drained and drained of poached with aa salpicon salpicon of mixture with souffi6 mixture oysters, preceding in the Finish as as in the preceding mushrooms. Finish truffies and and mushrooms. oysters, truffles recipes. recipes. polssoN -- Cook DE POISSON Fish in butter, fish in butter, Cook the the fish sourrrfiDE sorff6. SOUFFLÉ Fish soufflé. and 11(9 oz.) g. (9 fish add add'l] oz.) fish 250 g. For every sieve. For press through every 250 through aa sieve. and press dl. yolks Bind with with 33 egg egg yolks sauce. Bind thtck béchamel b1chamel sauce. dl. (* pint, ~3 cup) thick ",rp) and te 33 or in the the Finish as as in whites. Finish beaten egg egg whites. or 44 beaten incorporate and incorpora preceding preceding recipes. recipes. This to leftleftcan also also be be applied applied to all fish fish.. ItIt can to ail This recipe recipe applies applies to over wine. white wjne. in butter butter or or white cooked in which has has been been cooked fish which over fish Soufflé Fore (i lala Périgueux) MOUSSES, Foie See MOUSSES, gras (à P6rigueux) -- See foie gras of foie Sorff6 of gras (hot). gr(N mousse mousse (hot).


864 864

SOUFFLES SOUFFLES greater number The cream-based cream-based mixtures are used for the greater of souffi6s, soufflés, the basic recipe is is varied by the flavouring used and the ingredients added. silver, Souffi6s are are made of sil Soufflés made in in straight-sided containers of ver, glass. Silver soufflé soufr6 dishes ovenproof glass. fireproof porcelain or ovenproof with an in which which the the dish in are sometimes provided an inner dish are sometimes provided with and sprinkled souffi6 is cooked. These utensils utensils are buttered and soufflé with fine sugar. with in aa moderate oyen that the so that oven so the heat Souffi6s are are cooked in Soufflés penetrates of the mixture. A few moments penetrates right to the middle of souffi6 is sprinkled with sugar cooking is finished the soufflé before cooking ofthe oven. and glazed in the hottest part of the oyen. according to the size of of the soufflé, soufl6, cooking time The cooking time varies according should be 14 to 16 l6 minutes. minutes. but for the quantities given below below should souffi6 must be served served without cooked and glazed the soufflé Once cooked delay. re CRÈMEAppAREILs À A LA cniun Cream-based mixtures. APPAREILS A.Bingl tablespoons, scant ~f cup) milk to Mixture A. Bring 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, (lloz.,3 tablespoons) sugar and a pinch of of the boil with 40 g. (1 ~ oz., 3 tablespoons) 25 g. sifted flour blended with aa little little salt. Add 25 0 oz., f, cup) sifted e. (l Cook, stirring, stirring, for for 22 to to 3 cold milk. milk. Flavour as as required. Cook, cold yolks,'10 g. (~ minutes. Remove from the heat and add 2 egg yolks, lOg. $ stiffy beaten egg whites. oz., 1I tablespoon) butter butter and 3 stiffly oz., fill1 aa buttered and and sugared soufflé soufr6 dish. and fil Mix quickly and souffi6. Cook in aa moderate oyen. oven. Smooth the surface of the soufflé. minutes before before serving sprinkle with sugar to glaze. Two minutes $aze. Proceed in in the the same same way way as as for for Mixture Mixture A, A, Mixture B. B. Proceed Mixture replacing the flour with a teaspoon of potato starch. (2t oz., t g. (2~ (2t oz., tJ cup) flour, g: (2~ flour, 65 65 g. 65 g. C. Mix 65 Mixture C. whole egg and 1I egg yolk in aa of salt, salt, 1I whole cup) fine sugar, aa pinch of saucepan. pint, generous cup) boiling milk and 2j dl. dl. (scant ~] pint, Stir in 2~ the mixture mixture from from sticking sticking to to the cook, stirring weil well to to keep the cook, Flavour as required. required. bottom. bottom. Flavour (l oz., g. (1 add25 o2.,22 tablespoons) tablespoons) Remove from the heat and and add Remove 25 g. yolk, and whites. Finish Finish as as and 33 stiffly stiffiy beaten egg egg whites. butter,·1 butter,'l egg yolk, above. g. (l~ (l oz., I cup) g. (1 sifted fioUl', flour, 40 a0 g. cup) sifted 25 g. D. Place 25 Mixture D. Oi saucepan. in aa saucepan. ofsalt and aa pinch of tablespoons) sugar sugar and oz., salt in oz., 33 tablespoons) (6 tablespoons, cold scant t* cup) cup) cold dl. (6 tablespoons, scant with 1I dl. Mix Mix smoothly with minutes over over for aa few few minutes and cook cook for milk, milk, add flavouring and add flavouring time. stirring ail all the time. moderate heat, stirring moderate (j oz., yolks, lOg. l0 g. (t oz., 1I add 33 egg egg yolks, from the the heat and add Remove from whites. in 3 stiffly stiffiy beaten egg egg whites. fold in tablespoon) butter, and fold as above. Finish as (6 dl. (6 with 1I dl. lf teaspoons arrowroot with Blend 11 teaspoons arrowroot Mixture Mixture E. E Blend g. Add 40 40 g. in aa saucepan. saucepan. Ad~ cup) cold cold milk in tablespoons, scant scant t* cup) tablespoons, pinch of (l| oz., salt. B~mg Bring to to and aa pi~c~ of salt. sugar and o2.,3 tablespoons) sugar (11 3 tablespoons) stirring ail all the the tlme. time. for aa moment, stlrnng boiling and cook cook for boiling point and yolks and stiffiy beaten and 22 stiffly the heat, heat,2 egg yolks Add, 2 egg from the Add, away away from egg Finish as as above. above. egg whites. Finish in invalid invalid cookery. cookery. This This mixture is is used used in (l| oz., g. (11 sugar, 33 egg egg tablespoons) sugar, Mixture Pr-rt 40 a0 g. oz., 33 tablespoons) Mixture F. F. Put Beat weil well with with yolks and pinch ofsalt small saucepan. saucepan. Beat yolks and aa pinch of salt into aa small spatula. aa spatula. 1 .. . (6 tablespoons, Stir molk. SUr scant 2i cup) cup) boillDg boiling molk. Stir tablespoons, scant in 1I dl. dl. (6 Stir in Remove to appear. appear. Remove begin to first bubbles begin over heat until until the the first over the heat egg whites. whites. Finish Finish or 33 stiffiy stifly beaten egg from heat and and add add 22 or from the heat as ove. as ab above. in invalid invalid cookery. cookery. is also used in This . This recipe recipe is also used added to to the the baSIC basic flavour isis added Flavouring The flavour soffiis. The Flavouring soufflés. pods and Vanilla pods and lemon, lemon, mixture or after after cooking. cooking. Vanilla during or mixture during peel are Liquadded during during cooking. cooking. Liquorange are added mandarin peel orange and and mandarin egg incorporating egg eurs from the the heat heat before before incorporating added away away from eurs are are added whites. whites. just before folding added just before folding Chopped fruits are are also also added Chopped candied candied fruits in whites. in the the egg egg whites. punEr DE Add DE FRUITS FRUITs -- Add Fruit-based AppAREILs ÀA PURÉE mixtures. APPAREILS Fruit-based mixtures.

Spinach souffié soufl6

for Proceed as as ~or Spinach o'f:plNAnos -- Proceed souFFLf D'ÉPINARDS Spinach soufflé. solfl6. SOUFFLÉ quantity Chicory souffit, soufflé, replacing the chicory chicory with an equal quantlty pressed a.nd chopped or and chopped. of spinach, blanched, blanched, drained, drained, pressed of spinach, preceding as m in the precedmg and simmered in butter. butter. Finish as sieved, and simmered in recipes. A LA tl o'6pIN.a,nos À Spinach florentine. SOUFFLÉ souFFLf D'ÉPINARDS. la florentine. Spinach soufflé souff6 ài la adding 50 FLORENTINE -- Prepare Prepare the basic mixture mixture as as above, addmg FLoRENTINE grated Parmesan spinach. (2 oz., g. g. (2 to the the cooked cooked spinach. Parmesan to cup) grated oz., 1i cup) Finish as in the preceding preceding recipes. recipes. Spiny lobster Prepare as DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrr -- Prepare sourrrf DE lobster soufflé. souffi6. SOUFFLÉ pur6e instead of a for Shrimp but using a spiny lobster purée spiny lobster Shrimp soufflé, souffit,but shrimp purée. pur6e. Sweetbread soufflé. velu -- Proceed as for RIs DE VEAU souff6. SOUFFLÉ sourruf DE RIS Calj's an equal quantity soffit, replacing the liver with an Calf s liver soufflé, of of calf's calf 's sweetbreads. Mostly served hors-d uuvre. cassolettes as an hors-d'œuvre. served in cassolelles (+ pint, li lf Tomato soufflé. roMArEs -- Bind 3 dl. (1 sourrlE DE TOMATES soufr6. SOUFFLÉ (6 tablespoons, cups) pur6e with tablespoons, scant 1] with 1I dl. dl. (6 cups) thick tomato purée (2 g. (2 cup) thick 50 g. Remove from heat and add 50 thick béchamel 6tchamel sauce. Remove yolks and and 33 beaten egg oz., grated Parmesan, 33 egg egg yolks oz., 1I cup) grated whites. preceding recipes. Finish as in the preceding grated This the addition of grated This soufflé souffi6 may be be made without the Parmesan, or chopped chopped tarragon may be added instead. AUX TRm:FES TRUFFES ~ (Soufr6 ài la royale). sourrr6 AU~ la royale)',souFFLÉ Truffle Trufle soufflé soufr6 (Soufflé (see PUREE) (5 oz., purte (see PUREE) wlth with 1lj2 Bind150 g. (5 Trffie puree cup) Truffle Bind'150 g. o2.,3~ cup) essence dl. made with with Truffle Truffie essence sauce made cup) béchamel btchamel sauce dl. (* pint, t3 cup) (see ESSENCE). Season. in the the Add 3 egg yolks and as in whites. Finish as and 3 beaten egg whites. preceding preceding recipes. Chiefly served in hors-deuvre. in cassolelles cassolette.s as an hors-d'œuvre. TRUFFES ET ET AU Truffle AUx TRUFFES sourrrE AUX Trufre soufflé soufr6 with Parmesan. SOUFFLÉ (2!, oz., g. (21 o2.,f; PARMESAN ~ 60 g. souffi6 mixture 60 IARMEsAN -- Add to a Parmesan soufflé preceding cup) in the the preceding Finish as as in fine julienne. Finish in aa fine cup) truffles truffies cut in recipes. Mostly served in œuvre. an hors-d' hors-deuvre. in cassolelles cassolette,t as an Vegetable soufflé. Any vegetable, lfculcs -- Any oe LÉGUMES sourrli DE soufr6. SOUFFLÉ reduced to souffi6. Before Before egg egg pur6e, may be used to make soufflé. used to to aa purée, pur6es should yolks are dried out out.over over heat should be be dried are added, these these purées ifthey are and they are necessary, If as necessary, should be added as bbchamel sauce should and béchamel too thin. thin. Proceed in the same soffit, way as as for for Chicory same way Chicory soufflé. Artichokes, carrots, celery, celery, mushArtichokes, asparagus, aubergines, carrots, rooms, may be be used used to turnips, etc., etc., may courgettes, turnips, rooms, caulifiower, cauliflower, courgettes, make soufflés way. souffi6s in this this way.

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SWEET SOUFFLÉS. kinds Several kinds sourrrEs D'ENTREMETS D'ENTREMETs -- Several SOUFFLES. SOUFFLÉS of They can can be be souffi6s. They used for for these these soufflés. are used of basic basic mixture mixture are divided fruitprincipal types: and fruittypes r cream-based cream-based and into two divided into two principal based. based. 865 865

SOUPE 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz., OZ., scant scant lf li cups) sugar, sugar, cooked to small crack degree (see SUGAR) to 200 g. (7 oz., OZ., scant cup) fruit pur6e. purée. Boil for a moment. Pour the mixture mixture onto onto 5 or 66 stifly stiffly beaten Boil for egg whites, whites, and mix quickly. quickly. into a a buttered buUered souffi6 soufflé dish dish sprinkled cnlrlnlrl~·rl with sugar. Turn into Cook Cook in the the same same way as described described in the preceding recipes. Although souffi6s soufflés of of fresh fruit are made with with this rnixture, rrUxture, they may also be be made made with a cream-based cream-based mixture. mixture. A very thick before incorporating incorporating the the egg egg whites. whites. thick fruit fruit pur6e is added before Nmond souffi6. SOUFfLÉ AUx AüX AMANDES - Fill a souffiE soufflé dish soufflé. sourrlf

pistachio nuts are usually made nuts are made without without any flavouring. flavouring. A little vaniHa or aa liqueur, preferably preferably rum rum or kirsch, kirsch, may, may, litt le vanilla however, however, be added.

Lemon soufr6. sourrd AU Cream-based souffi6 soufflé. SOUFFLÉ AU crrRoN CITRON -- Cream-based soufflé with finely chopped mixture chopped lemon peel. mixture flavoured with peel. Liqueur-flavoured Liqueur-flavoured soufr6. soufflé. sour.nl6 SOUffLÉ AUx AUX LIeUEURS LIQUEURS -- Proceed, Proceed, using asfor usin~ t[e the required liqueur, as for Curagao Curaçao soffib. soufflé. liqueur-flavoured souffi6s, addition to the liqueur To all allliqueur-flavoured soufflés, in addition used in the the basic basic mixture, sponge finger biscuits, cut cut into used small same liqueur, may be added. small squares and soaked in the same Mont-Bry sourrlE MoNT-BRv Mont-Bry soufr6. soufflé. SOUFFLÉ MONT-BRY - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture mixed mixed with with one-third one-third of of its its volume volume of chestnuts cooked strongly flavoured cooked in in syrup syrup and and strongly flavoured with glacts soaked in kirsch. vanilla. vanilla. Garnish Garnish withmarrons with Orange or mandarin soufr6. SOUFFLÉ À t'onlxcq L'ORANGE, A À LA sourrrf A MANDARINE MANDARINECream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture flavoured with with the - Cream-based finely chopped chopped peel of of orange orange or mandarins. Palmyra soufl6. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ rALMvRE PALMYRE - Cream-based Cream-based soufr6 soufflé mixture mixture well weil flavoured with vanilla, vanilla, mixed with small pieces pieces ofsponge of sponge finger biscuits biscuits soaked soaked in kirsch and anisette. Peach sourrrf aux Peach soufr6. soufflé. SOUFFLÉ AUX pEcnrs PÊCHES - Use one of of the the recipes given given for for Apricot soffit, substituting substituting peaches. Pear souffib. sourrrE AUx AUX porRES POIRES - Use one of the recipes for Apricot Apricol souffit, replacing the apricots with pears cooked juice without in sugar and their own ownjuice without any added added liquid. plaline soufl6. SOUFFLÉ pRALTNE PRALINE - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé soufflé. sourruf mixture mjxture flavoured with vanilla, with 2 to 3 tablespoons of praline praline added. added, When making making this trus souffi6 soufflé the praline praline may be put into the milk used used to make make the the cream-based cream-based mixture. mixture. Rothschild soufl6I. soufflé 1. sourrlt SOUFFLÉ RorHscHrLD ROTHSCHILD - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture to which 2 to 3 tablespoons of salpicon salpicon of candied candied fruits soaked in brandy brandy have been been added. added. When the souffi6 soufflé is almost cooked, decorate decorate with crystalcrystallised lised cherries. cherries. Rothschild soufl6II. soufflé n. sournle SOUFFLÉ RorHscHrLD ROTHSCHILD - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture to which 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) of salpicon of candied fruits, soaked soaked in Danziger Danziger goldwasser, goldwasser, have have been been added. added. When When the souffi6 soufflé is is almost almost cooked, decorate with large large strawberries. strawberries. Strawberry Strawberry souffi6I. soufflé I. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ AUX FRArsEs FRAISES - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixed mixed with with wild wild strawberries or ordinary large strawberries strawberries sprinkled with sugar. Strawberry soufl6 If. Il. sourrrE SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX FRArsEs FRAISES -- Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture mixed with a very thick strawberry strawberry pulp. Sfl'lIlArherrv soufr6 soufflé III. IIl. sourrlf AUX FRArsEs FRAISES -- Strawberry Strawberry Strawberry pulp prepared as a fruit-based fruit-based souffi6 soufflé mixture. mixture. Tea sorff6. sourrr6 SOUFFLÉ nu AU rsf THÉ -- Cream-based Cream-based soufl6 soufflé mixture mixture prepared prepared with with milk in which which tea tea has has been been infused. infused. Vanilla Vanilla souffi6. soufflé. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ A À rA LA vlNrr-rr VANILLE - Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture flavoured flavoured with with vanilla. vanilla, Violet Violet soufr6. soufflé. sourrr6 SOUFFLË AUx AUX vrolErrEs VIOLETTES -- Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture flavoured flavoured with a a few drops drops of essence essence of violets violets and with with candied candied violets violets added. added. In the the same same way soufl6s soufflés may may be be made made with other candied flowers flowers such as as roses roses and and orange orange flower flower petals. Walnut Walnut soufr6. soufflé. -- sourrlE SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX NoIX NOIX - Cream-based soufrE soufflé mixture mixture mixed mixed with lightly Iightly toasted toasted and chopped chopped walnuts walnuts and and flavoured flavoured with walnut walnut juice. juice. This souffi6 soufflé can be made with fresh fresh walnuts. walnuts.

with with a a cream-based cream-based mixture mixture in in which which Almond milk milk (see ALMOND) ALMOND) has been been used instead of ordinary milk, and to which 2 or 3 tablespoons chopped roasted almonds, have been been added. added. Cook Cook in the usual way. Sprinkle Sprinkle with chopped almonds. almonds. Fresh Fresb almond souffi6. soufflé. souprrf SOUffLÉ AUX AUX AMANDSS AMANDES rRAicrms fRA/CHES - As above, replacing replacing the roasted almonds with fresh, fresh, blanched blanched almonds. almonds.

Ambassadrice CreamAmbassadrice soufr6. soufflé. sourrrf SOUFfLÉ AMBAssADRIcE AMBASSADRICE based based souffi6 soufflé well weJ] flavoured flavoured with with vanilla, vanilla, with with the the addition addition of

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macaroons and2to macaroons and 2 to 33 tablespoons tablespoons fresh, blanched blanched almonds almonds flavoured with rum. Apple souffi6. sourruE.a.ux AUX pouuns POMMES -- Proceed as for Apricot Apricot souffi6 (see (see below) using using stewed apples or apple jam. Russian apple souffi6. soufflé. sourrlf SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX poMMEs POMMES A r,c. LA Russn RUSSE Add some sorne thick apple pur6e purée to to the stiffiy stiffly beaten beaten egg whites whites (two-thirds (two-thirds apple pur6e and one-third one-third egg white). Fill a souffiE dish with the mixture and cook cook in the usual usual way. way. Apricot Apricot soufr6I. soufflé 1. sourrl6 SOUffLÉ AUx AUX ABRICoTS ABRICOTS - Fill FiJI a buttered buttered souffiE soufflé dish, dish, sprinkled sprinkled with with sugar, sugar, with with a a cream-based cream-based mixture mixture flavoured fiavoured with with kirsch, kirsch, and with with the the addition addition of pieces 22 crumbled crumbled

of apricot cooked cooked in in syrup, syrup, well weil drained drained then

soaked in kirsch. Apricot souffi6 n. sourrlf SOUFFLÉ AUx ACX ABRrcors ABRICOTS - Proceed Proceed as soufflé II. above, above, using using one one of the the cream-based cream-based mixtures mixtures with with the addition addition of of aa very thick thick apricot apricot pur6e purée flavoured ftavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Apricot Apricot soufr6III. Ill. sourrrE SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX ABRrcors ABRICOTS -- Fill the the souffi6 soufflé dish with apricot apricot pur6e, purée, made as as described described in the recipe recipe for fruit-based frult-based mixtures mixtures and and flavoured with kirsch. In ln all the above recipes for apricot souffi6, soufflé, a salpicon of candied apricots, apricots, soaked in in kirsch kirsch or some sorne other liqueur, should be be added. added. Alternatively, as the the dish is is filled, spoonfuls spoonfuls of of very thick apricot jam may be be added to to the the souffi6 soufflé mixture. mixture. Cherry souffi6 I. SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX cERrsEs CERISES -- Cream-based Cream-based I. sourrlf souffi6 soufflé mixture flavoured with with kirsch kirsch orcherry or cherry brandy, brandy, mixed mixed with with stoned stoned cherries cherries cooked in their their own own juice juice with sugar. Cherry souffi6 soufflé II. n. sourrrf SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX cERISES CERISES - Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture made made with with cherry cherry pulp pulp according according to to the the recipe recipe for for fruit-based fruit-based souffie soufflé mixture. mixture. Chestnutsoufr6 Chestnut soufflé --See See Mont-Bry Mont-Bry soffit. soufflé. Chocolate Chocolate souffi6. soufflé. sourrr6 SOUFFLÉ AU AU cHocoI-er CHOCOLAT -- Cream-based Cream-based soufl6 soufflé mixture mixture to to which which 50 50 g. (2 oz., J cup) grated grated chocolate, melted melted over aa very very low IOW heat heat or dissolved in a little liule milk milk has has been been added. added. Powdered Powdered cocoa cocoa may be be used instead of of grated grated chocolate. chocolate. Cocoa Cocoa soufr6 soufflé --See See Chocolate Chocolale souffi|. Cofree Coffee soufr6. soufflé. souprlf SOUFFLÉ lu AU carf -- Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture with the the addition of 4 4 or 5 tablespoons tablespoons of coffee coffee essence. essence. Curagao Curaçao soufr6. soufflé. sourplf SOUFFLÉ AU AU cuRAgAo CURAÇAO -- Cream-based Cream-based souffi6 soufflé mixture mixture flavoured flavoured with with orange orange peel peel and a small glass glass ofCuragao. of Curaçao. Hazelnut Hazehmt soufr6. soufflé. souprrf SOUFFLÉ AUX AUX AVELINSs AVELINES -- Cream-based Cream-based mixture mixture to to which which 2 to t0 4 tablespoons tablespoons hazelnut praline praline have have been been added. added. Souffi6s Soufflés made made with with almonds" almonds, hazelnuts. hazelnuts, walnuts walnuts and and

SOUPE SOUPE -- The French word word soupewas was once once used used to to describe describe various ingredients put into a a bouillon or broth, broth, whether whether made made with fish or meat. meat. Thus, for example, the the crottons croûtons of bread bread or or the the meat meat in in the the broth broth were were soupes. soupes. Nowadays Nowadays in in France the word word soupe, soupe, as as distinct distinct from the the more more frequently frequently used used potage, potage, is is used used to designate designate a peasantpeasant866 866

Cotfee soufl6 soufflé (Robert (Robert Carrier\ Carrier) Coffee

867 867

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS SOUPS principal examples style soup, ofwhich examples are cabbage cabbage soup, of which the principal style garnished garbure and various thick vegetable soups, usually garnished garbure with bread.

pur6es of Pur6e soups Purée soups are are either either purées of feculent feculent vegetables or leguminous plants, when the liaison is is achieved naturally by pur6es of the the starch starch constituents constituents of of these these vegetables, vegetables, or or purées of (bisques), fish, shellfish shellfish (bisques), fish, meat meat and and vegetables, the the liaison of liaison of is obtained which which is obtained by by the the addition addition of of aa supplementary element. element. (shellfish, fish, meat and vegetable) the In the cream soups (shellfish, liaison is is obtained by the addition addition of aa certain quantity of liaison by the of Btchamel sauce (see SAUCE). Béchamel SAUCE). ln velouté In veloutt (whether shellfish, shellfish, fish, fish, meat meat or or vegetable) the (see liaison is is obtained liaison obtained by by the the addition addition of of Velouté Veloutt sauce sauce (see SAUCE) binding with yolks and cream. SAUCE) and the final binding The following should also be mentioned: .1. 1. Thickened consommés. consommds. Ordinary or double consommés consomm6s based on meat, fish or vegetable stock, to which egg yolks and fresh cream are added at the last moment. 2. Compound or mixed thick soups. Made by mixing, 2. mixing, in proportions, different kinds of soups which well-defined proportions, which do yolks clash in flavour. flavour. These can can be thickened with egg not clash ks egg yol and fresh cream. (maize), 3. 3. Special flour of various cereals, oatmeal, corn (maize), barley, rice, etc., diluted with meat or vegetable vegetable stock, which sometimes called bouillies, are s?metimes bouillies, can also be put in the category These soups can also be bound with egg yolks ofthlck of thick soups. These They are mainly and cream. They mainly given to children. Following the F?lIowing the section on thick velouté on thick velouti soups, soups, there is is a sectIOn section dealing with special special and and velouté velouli soups, soups, another on classical and and regional soups, and one on international soups and broths.

poucEs, SOUPES SOUPS AND BROTHS. POTAGES, soupEs -- In In the the sevenSOUPS potage did teenth century century the the word word potage did not not have have the same the sa me teenth meaning as it has today. In those days the name was given to to meaning vegetables: big dishes of meat or fish boiled with vegetables: potoge: 'Cependant on apporte un un potage: 'Cependant Un coq y paraissait en pompeux pompeux equipage'. is, however, brought in : 'A potage is, brought in: cock is seen in it, it. in state.' A cock (Boileau, Satire III). III). old potage àd lajambe example ofsuch la jambe de bois is a good example of such The old a dish. adish. Reynidre described so The soup is now what Grimod de la Reynière 'It isis to portico or well when he said: 'It to aa dinner dinner what what aa portico or a well he said: peristyle is to a building; that is to say, it is not only the first of it, but it must be devised in such a manner as to set the part of of the whole whole banquet, in the same way as the overture of tone of subject of an opera opera announces the subject ofthe the work'. In other other words, the the soup must must be in harmony harmony with with the In be in whole menu. whole menu. At aa family gathering, or at dinner, soup is at an an intimate dinner, At served in a soup tureen served tureen placed on the table, and the master master or guests. the lady of ofthe the house serves it to the guests. At ceremonial dinners, especially especially of of the the kind kind where the At includes two soups soups -- a clear and a thick menu includes thick -- this service is table placed dining table and performed at a table placed not far from the dirung guests. Whatever manner the servants pass the plates to the guests. manner is adopted, soup must be served piping adopted, piping hot, in very hot plates. Soups are based based on meat stocks or made with water, with quenelles, bread added to them, supplemented supplemented by vegetables, quenelles, chffinades, chiffonades, pasta products, cereal starches and various other garnishings. (See GARNISHES.) garnishings. GARNISHES.) on their consistency, consistency, soups soups can be Depending on be classified classified into two big big categories: categories: clear clear soups and thick soups. garnishes A clear soup is a consomm6 consommé with various light garnishes added. The garnishings must be of the kind that go with the stock clarified consomm6: same consommé: meat meat stock clarified and and at at the the sa me time strengthened with lean chopped beef, diced diced aromatic strengthened aromatic vegetables and egg whites. whites. There are several kinds of thick soups. The The liaison, There are several thick soups. liaison, or thickening, thickening, is obtained either naturally by the dissolving of the .r~rinaceous farinaceous contents of the ingredients used, or by an addition additIOn of of roux or some sorne other other element element such as cooked rice, rice bread boiled boiled to pulp, pur6e purée of a a starchy vegetable, vegetabJe, etc. etc. A number of of thick soups are bound with a liaison of of egg yolks just before and cream creamj~st before serving. serving. In this section section thick soups are classified classified under three subheadings headings:: cream, cream, pur6es purées and veloutb. velouté.

CLEAR CLEAR SOUPS. SOUPS. POTAGES PorAGEs CLAIRScLArRsSimple white Ordinary meat Simple white consommé consomm6 or grande marmite marmite-- Ordinary called stock made in a big stockpot lied simple white consommé stockpot is ca consommi or bouillon. We specify stockpot, grande marmite, to specify the big stockpot, differentiate from a soup ca1led petit marmite, the recipe for differentiate it from called petit which is given elsewhere elsewhere in this book. simple consomm6 This simple consommé serves as a basis for all ail clear soups. is prepared with all a1l the the usual usual nutritive nutritive and aromatic If it is and aromatic ingredients, it should should be very savoury. The following following cuts of are best for consomm6: consommé: Round of meat are of beef beef and silverside, these cuts make a savoury stock, but give rather dry boiled beef beef ifif it is to be eaten separately. separately. Le? of of beef beef (comprising (comprising the whole of of the upper upper tibial part, Leg sold in 10 transversal sections), sections), shin, shi n, which also also makes makes good sold stock. stock. Shoulder of beef, beef, shoulder shoulder blade, blade, neck neck and and ox-cheek ox-cheek Shoulder furrush cuts cuts which which also produce good stock. Boned Boned ox-cheek ox-cheek furnish makes quite good good stock. Various of the shoulder: shoulder: clod, chuck chuck end, the Various sub-divisions of gemellus of the shoulder blade) -- all gemellus muscle muscle (situated in front of shoulder blade) cuts of the the second category -- produce good of which are cuts stock. To these these various cuts cuts butchers butchers usually add, as 'make'makeweight', pieces of knuckle, knuckle, leg, and other bony and gristly parts. Rib Rib of ofbeef, which makes makes excellent excellent stock, stock, is subdivided subdivided into beef, which fore-ribs fore-ribs (five (five ribs situated situated in in the shoulder part), part), and middlemiddlerib, rib, (four ribs from from the the eighth eighth to the eleventh eleventh rib); rib); and chuck of the clod (three (three ribs). end ofthe The The top of of sirloin, and the flank fiank which which with with the lower lower end of the the breast breast (gristle, (gristle, middle rniddle and thick end) end) constitute constitute theprs the pis of de boeuf. boeuf addition to the basic basic cuts cuts of of meat meat mentioned above. above, it is In addition good idea idea to add add chicken bones and and giblets (previously (previously a good browned in the oven) oyen) to the stockpot, stockpot, as this this improves improves the the browned stock. Marrow Marrow bones bones (broken (broken into into chunks and each each wrapped wrapped in in a piece piece of of muslin) muslin) can also be be added. added. The The cooked marrow marrow can can be be extracted and spread on on bread bread or or toast.

A

Potage Potage ià lala jambe jambe de de bois bois

868 868

SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS

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Seasoning. Seasoning. a0 40 g. g. Q* (1 oz., oz., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) coarse coarse salt. salt. Liquid.S Liquid.5 litres litres (4j (4} quarts, quarts, 5j 5t quarts) quarts) water, waler, 66 dl. dl. (l (J pint,2t pinl, 2t

Ingredients. For For 5S litres litres (4j quarts, quarts, 5j quarts) quarts) consomm6: consommé: Ingredients. Nourishing Nourishing ingredients.2 ingredienls. 2 kg: kg. (aj (4t lb.) lb.) lean lean beef, beef, l* I} kg. kg. (3i (3;j- lb.) lb.) beef knuckle knuckle (with (with bone). bone). beef Aromatic Aromalic ingredients.3 ingrediellls. 3 or 4 big big carrots, carrots, 22 or or 3 turnips, turnips, I1 parsnip, parsnip, 3 to 44 leeks leeks tied lied in in aa bundle, bundle, 22 stalks stalks of of celery, one one medium-sized onion onion with wilh one or two two cloves cl oves stuck sluck in in it, it, one one clove of of garlic, garlic, a sprig of of thyme thyme and a quarter quarter of of aa bay bay leaf leaf

cups) cups) white white wine. wine. Method. Melhod. Proceed Proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Simple Simple white white consomm'!. Add onions onions cut eut in in slices slices and and finely finely sliced sliced leeks. leeks. consommé. Add

Boil for 45 45 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain the the stock stock and and use use as as Boil slowly slowly for indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Clarified CONSOMMÉ DE DE PoISsoN POISSON cunlrm CLARIFIÉ -Clarified fish fish consomm6. consommé. coNsotvtufi For For 22 litres litres (3| (31 pints, pints, 4j 4-} pints): pints): Nourishing Nourishillg ingredients. ingrediems. T50 750 g. g. (li (1 t lb.) lb.) of of the the flesh flesh of of pike pike or or whiting (net (net weight, weight, without withoUI bones bones or or skin). skin). Aromatic Aromatic ingredients. ingrediems. T5 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz., t~ cup) cup) chopped chopped leeks, leeks, several sprigs sprigs parsley. parsley. Clarfying Clarifyillg element:2 elemem . 2 egg whites. wh,ites. Liquid:2| Liquid: 21 litres litres (4j (4-~ pints, pints, 5| st pints) pints) fish fish stock. stock. Method. Melhod. Proceed Proceed as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Clarified Clarified consomnl. Simmer beef Simmer very very slowly slowly for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. Strain Strain the the beefconsommé. consomm6 consomme and use as as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Simple game CONSOMMÉ snraprE SIMPLE DE DE GIBIER GIBIER gamc consomm6. consommé. coNsoutr't6 Game Game which which is too 100 old old to to be be cooked cooked in in any any other otber way way is Is used used for consommé. for this this consomm6. (4] quarts, 5f quarts) Ingredients. Ingredienls. For For 55 litres (41 quarts, 51 quarts) consomm6: consommé: and neck Nourishing ingredients. Ingredients. 2 2 kg. kg. (ai (41 lb.) lb.) shoulder shouider and neck of of or an venison, I1 kg. (2i lb.) forequarter forequarter of of hare, hare, or an equivalent equivaient Qi lb.) one old quantity old pheasant, quantity of of rabbit, rabbit, one old pheasant, one old partridge. partridge. g. (ll oz.,2j Aromatic Aromatic ingredients.2 ingredients. 2 to to 33 carrots, carrots, 300 300 g. (II oz., 21 cups) cups) (5 oz., g. (5 150 g. oz., l* onions, 33 leeks, chopped onions, leeks, 150 1* cups) cups) chopped choppcd garlic, 2 sprigs of cloves sprigs parsley, celery, several sprigs celery, parsley, 2 2 cl oves of of garlic, 2 sprigs of (2 oz., g. (2 oz., i;j- cup) cup) juniper 50 g. thyme, one bay thyme, one bay leaf, leaf, 50 juniper berries, berries, 33 cloves. (l* oz., coarse salt. salt. g. (11 oz.,2tablespoons) a0 g. Seasoning. Seasoning. 40 2 tablespoons) coarse quarts) cold (5| quarts, quarts, 6] water. cold water. Liquid:66 litres (st Liquid: &J: quarts) game in in the oven and and put Method. Brown Brown all ail the game the oyen put in in the the boil. bring to water and bring stockpot. Add cold water to the the boil. in vegetables, lightIy lightly browned the vegetables, and add add the season, and Skim, season, browned in garm, thejuniper game. Add bouquet garni, the Add aa bouquel the juniper tlle fat rendered by the garne. herb bag. cloves in berries, and the c10ves in aa herb bag. simmer the stove stove and and simmcr the edge edge of of the Draw the stockpot Draw the stock pOl to to the strain the stock. surplus fat fat and and strain hours. Remove surplus for 31 3j hours. slowly for the stock. in the the recipe. recipe. indicated in Use as indicated can game which for making this consommé consomm6 can which is is served served for The game making this well patties, croquettes, etc., as as weil preparing patties, croquettes, hashes, be used for preparing hashes, etc., pur6e and for purée and salpicon. as for persons: For 66 persons: marmite -- For Petite marmite (7 (la oz.) g. (7 g. (14 top of rump, 200 200 g. a00 g. oz.) top of rump, Nourishing Ingredients. ingredients. 400 lVourishlng (4 Oz.) g. (4 sets chicken chicken marrow bone, bone, 22 sets 100 g. oz.) marrow oz.) rib rib of of beef, beef, 100 oz.) giblets. giblets. small turnip, turnip, 22 small carrots, 1I small to :l3 sm Aromatic Ingredients. ingredients.22 to Aromatic ail carrots, (white part part only, in chunks), small onions, onions, chunks), 22 small cut in only, eut to 33 leeks leeks (white to quarter of small head head of of quarter of of aa small head of celery, celery, quaner of aa he quarter ad of cabbage. (4j pints, pints), cold consommt. pints, 5f pints), cold simple simple consommé. litres (4t Liquid.2j Liquid. 2~ litres (wrapped in in aa bone (wrapped marrow bone meat, Ihe the marrow the meat, Put the Method. Put Melhod. pan. Bring to into aa pan. Bring to the cold piece of cold consommé consomm6 into and the of muslin) and piece skim. the boil boil and and skim. the size and and cut down down to to aa uniform uniform size turnips, eut carrots and and turnips, Add carrots Add in cut in (blanching the ifthey are old); old); leeks, leeks, eut vegetables, if the vegetables, shape (blanching shape they are the on the lightly cooked cooked on small onions onions lightly and blanched; small chunks and chunks pieces; cabbage, cabbage, into smalJ small pieces; and eut cut into stove; celcry, celery, blanched blanched and stove; gently very gently ball. Sim Simmer rolled inlo into aa tight tight bail. and rolled also blanched blanched and also mer very make up up to time time to to rnake stock from from time time to little stock for 44 hours, hours, ad adding for ding aa little by evaporation. for the the loss loss ofliquid of liquid byevaporation. for giblets and and the chicken chicken gibiers serving, add add the hour before before serving, One hour One continue cooking cooking continue petite marmile in mind mind that that petile marmite fat, but bear in but bear Remove surplus surplus fat, Remove Remove the surface. surface. Remove fat on circlets of of fat on the have aa fe.w few light light circlets should have should pan. put ilit back into into the the pan. and put marrow bone, unwrap and the marrow bone, unwrap the in the the oven, or rusks. rusks. dried in oven, or sliced and and dried with bread, Serve with bread. sliced Serve

(optional). (optional). Method Method /. 1. Tie the meat meal with string and put it it into a big big stockpot. stockpot. Add 77 litres litres (6 (6 quarts, 7j quarts) quarts) cold water. Bring to is established eslablished a layer of of to the the boil. boil. When boiling is slightly coagulated albumen forms on the surface. surface. Remove Remove this Ihis carefully, carcfully, i.e. i.e. skim the the stockpot stockpot clean. clean. Season Season with 35 g. g. (l) (1 t o2.,2 oz., 2 tablespoons) tablespoons) coarse salt. salt. Put Put all ail the the vegetables vegetables into into the the stockpot. stockpot. Simmer Simmer very hardly perceptible, for for 5 hours. slowly, so that the boiling is hardly Remove surplus fat carefully carefully and strain the stock through a cloth, or through through a very very fine strainer. cloth, Stock should should not go on cooking cooking for for longer than 5 hours. hours. small pieces, Method Method II. Il. Put the Ihe bones, bones, broken broken into inlo small pieces, into into the stock pot and cover with cold water. Bring Bring to [0 the boil, skim, stockpot add salt and simmer simmer slowly for 2| 21 hours. hours. Bring Bring to to the boil and put in the meat, boned and tied with wilh string. Bring Bring to the boil again, skim and season. Add the vegetables. Simmer slowly again, for about 4 hours. hours. salt at at the beginning; Do not put in all the salt in ail beginning; complete the of the cooking, cooking, ifif necessary. seasoning at the end of necessary. Skim offfat stock Skim To serve or use stock. off fat and strain the stock. Use various pasta sliced bread, various add it it for soup, add it for making making soup, it to to sliced garnishings, as indicated in the recipe. products and other garnishings, Use the meat and the vegetables as described in the recipe root vegetables beef with raOI for Boiled Boiled heefwith vegetables (see BEEF). coNsorraufi CLA cl.LRrrlE consomm6 riche. CONSOMMÉ consomm6 or consommé Clarified cOlIS()mmé RIFlÉ (3j pints, pints, 41 4{ For 2 litres litres (3t rucss - Ingredients. ou CONSOMMt coNsoMuf RICHE OU Ingredients. For pints) consommé: consommd: (l+ lb.) chopped lean beef, g. (lt chopped lean T50 g. Nourishing Ingredients. ingredients. 750 removed. with ail sinews all si news and gristle removed. (4 oz., g. (4 oz., 1 cup) large carrot, carrot, 100 g. Aramalic Aromatic ingredienls. ingredients. 1I large white part of leeks. Clarifying element.l1 raw egg white. Clarifying e/emenl. stock. (5f pints, 6t simple stock. 6j pints) simple Liquid.33 litres (5* Liquid. and egg meat, diced diced vegetables and the chopped chopped meat, Method. Put the Method. wann stock. or warrn add cold cold or Mix and and add white into into aa saucepan. Mix white or wooden spoon or the boil, stirring constantly with a wood Bring to Ihe en spoon boil, stirring saucepan is established, When boiling established, draw the saucepan with a whisk. When boiling is lI bours. hours. simmer very slowly for It edge of the bumer burner and simmer to the edge strain the consommé. consomm6. fat and and strain surplus fat Remove surplus DE VOLAILLEvoLAILLE SIMPLE DE coNsotrlu6 SIMPLE consomm6. CONSOMMÉ Simple crncken chicken consommé. Simple white consommé, consomm'!, for Simple while Proceed Proceed as as described in the recipe for small indicated aa small ingredients indicated nourishing Ingredients to the the nourishing adding adding to or an an equivalent equivalent in the the oven, oven, or chicken, chicken, previously browned in giblets and quantity of and carcases. carcases. ofchicken quantity chicken giblets DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE coNsouruE DE consomm6. CONSOMMÉ Clarified crncken chicken consommé. Clarified as described described ingredients, as the same same Ingredients, using the CLARJFlE crlRlrfi -- Proceed, using sets to the the beef 33 sets adding to consomm2, adding recipe for in the for Clarified in the recipe Clarified consommé, giblets. IlIt lsis also to add add aa recommended to also recommended chopped chopped chicken chicken giblets. and the the bones bones in the the oven, oven, and browned in small chicken, chicken, previously browned small of cbicken chicken isis The addition addition of if available. available. The roast chicken, chicken, if of of aa roast flavour. give the the desired desired flavour. the consommé consomm6 the essential to to give almost essential aimost into various various dishes. dishes. made up up into later be be made The chicken chicken can can later The DE POISSON PoISsoN -SIMPLE DE coNsouuE SIMPLE Simple fish fish consommé. consomm6. CONSOMMÉ Simple quarts) consommé: (4] quarts, quarts, 5~ consomm6: 5j quarts) For 55 litres litres (4t Ingredients. For Ingredienls. pike or fish, 600 600 or other other fisb, kg. (3i lb.) lb.) pike Nourishing ingredienls. ingredients.li NOf./rishing 1t kg. (2+ lb.) kg. (2* lb.) turbot turbot g. (1 fish, 1I kg. (l lb. of sole sole or or other other fish, bones of lb. 66 oz.) oz.) bones g. fish head. head. or or other other fish 2| cups) cups) chopped chopped oz., 2t 300 g.g. (1(llJ oz., Aromatic ingrediellts. ingredients. 300 Aromatic g. (I parsley, 25 cup) 25 g. oz., ~] cup) handful of of parsley, leeks, aa handful on ions, 22 to onions, to 33 leeks, Q oz., leaf. pinch oflhyme, one bay bay leaf. of thyme, one celery, aa pinch chopped chopped celcry,

7t

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869 869

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS SOUPS I'am6ricaine fi II -- Chicken consommé consommd thickConsomm6 il.i l'américaine Consommé garnished with gombos gombos (okra or ladies' arrowroot, garnished ladies' ened with arrowroot, cooked in in fingers) blanched blanched in salted water then drained and cooked in stock, stock, together with with diced diced tomatoes tomatoes eooked cooked in stock, and chervil leaves. chervilleaves. Fish consommé i J'amiral consomm6 thickened thickened with Consomm6 à I'amiral -- Fish Consommé quenelles made 24 small small quenelles made of Pike Garnish wîth with 24 arrowroot. Garnish Plke (see FORCEMEA with crayfish butFORCEMEAT) forcemeaz (see T) flavoured wÎth forcemeat poached, de-bearded de-bearded and and eut cut in and 2 ter, 66 oysters oysters poached, 1er, in half, haJf, and (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) julienne of truffies truffies cooked cooked in tablespoons (3 tablespoons julienne of Mbdeira. Sprinkle with chervîlleaves. chervil leaves. Madeira. pot àd See Consomme crottte ail Consomm6 ài J'ancienne I'ancienne -- See au pOl Consommt: crOlÎle Consommé I'ancienne. l'ancienne. garnished Simple consommé la basquaise -- Simple consomm6 garnished Consomm6 ài la Consommé pimentos of sweet pimentas with 2 tablespûons tablespoons (3 tablespoons)julienne tablespoons) julienne ofsweet with (3 tablespoons) diced diced tomin stock, 2 tablespoons (3 cooked in (*cup) tablespoons (t cup) rice cooked atoes cooked in stock, and 4 tablespoons leaves. in stock. Sprinkle with with chervil Jeaves. consomm6 thickened Consomm6 Beauharnais Consommé Beauharnais -- Chicken consomme garnish ed w ith ppaupiettes of lettuce, aup ie t t e s oflett uce. poached with aarrowroot, rrowroot, garnîshed wüh and a julienne slices, asparagus tips and in stock and cut into Înta slices. juliellne of truffies. Sprinkle with chervilleaves. chervil leaves. lrumes. SprinkJe NIDs nests. CONSOMMÉ AUx Nms coNsouuE ALX Consomm6 with with birds' Consommé birds' I1Csts. D'HIRoNDELrns -- Prepare strong chicken chicken consommé, consommE, cJarify clarify D'H1RONDELLES Prepare a strong and strain through lhrough muslin. water for 2 hours. When When they Soak swallows' nests in cold warer carefully, i.e. clean them sweJl become transparent, transparent, clean them carefully, swell and and become remove and other foreign matter which they of egg shell and remove bits of cleaned even though have already been deaned though they they have may contain, contain, even nests for 5 or 6 minutes and before being sold. Blanch these nests drain. Put the nests into boiling consommé. consomm6. Poach, keeping înto boiling keeping them boiling on a gentle but sustained boil, for 45 minutes. Serve boiljng served in cups. hot. This soup is always served Chicken consommé thickened with Consomm6 Buet consomm6 rhickened Consommé Bizet -- Chicken (see garnished with very small small Chicken Chicken quenelles (sec tapioca, garnîshed tapîoca. with very leaves. chopped tarragon QUENELLES) mixed with with chopped tarragon Ieaves. QUENELLES) mixed chervil leaves. Sprinkle with chervilleaves. smaU profiteroles profiteroles filled 611ed with a brunoise of Serve with very small

giblets can The chicken gîblets can be browned in in the the oyen be browned oven before before The stock. in the stock. being put inlhe pan, can instead of being cooked cooked in in the the pan, can be The cabbage, instead separately in fal fat stock, and and added [Cl to [he the consomme cooked separalely consomm6 cooked just before serving. just AVEc with chic chicken. MARMITE AVEC Petite marmite with ken. pETITE PETITE MARMITE Petite marmite voLAILLE VOLAILLE -- Proceed as described in the above recipe. chicken, previously browned in the oyen. oven. Add a small chicken, as ordinary Petite marmite. he same way as Pelile marmile. Serve in 1the in ear1henware, earthenware, caslcastPot-au-feu Pot-an-feu -- Family soup, prepared prepared in iron or aluminium aluminium utensils Petite marmite. ulensils in the same way as PetÎle Iron preparation provides two dishes: the the soup soup -- which This preparation two dishes: This products, rice pasta products, rice and, and, in should have have toasled toasted bread. bread, pasta should garnishings suit to it -all garnishings suitable general, ail able for clear soups, added 10 pickled in and vegelables. vegetables. Gherkins, Gherkins, samphire pickled meat and and meat and served with the boiled salt and and mustard are are served vinegar, coarse salt grated horseradish horseradish sauce beef. tomato lomato sauce, grated horseradish or horseradish (see SAUCE). SAUCE). can also be served with it (see In is made and chicken. ]n The classical pot-au-feu is The made of beef and it is add veal, veal, pork regions of France it Îs customary to add certain regions chicken is occasionally replaced sometimes mutton. and sometimes mutton. The chicken by duck or turkey. method is the S3Jl1e. same. Whatever meat is used for this dish, the method It is important only 10 to make sure that the various meats are given long enough time to cook. Prepare the Pot-au-feu ài l'albigeoise l'albigeoise .-- Prepare the pot,au-feu pOI.,ou-feu as Pot-su-feu for Petite described in marmite, but using the in the the recipe recipe for Petile marmile, but using described silverside, veal veal knuckle, following nourishing ingredients: following nourishing ingredients: sÎlversîde, knuckle. pork knuckk knuckle. When When ail all the are nearly salted pork the ingredients ÎngredÎenls are salted (see PORK) and, cooked, add add aa dry Coulltry and, aa few Country sausage (see few cooked. quarter of Confit d'oie (see serving the soup. soup, a quarter minutes minutes before before serving GOOSE). plenty of vegetables, partisholld have This pot-au-feu pal-Gu-feu should have plenly cabbage. t he basic recipe for PorPO!cularly ca bbage. Serve as described in the au-feu. b6arnaise, caUed Pot-au-feu called Poule-au-pot t'ot-aU-lleu àd la béamaise, Poule-au-pot - Prepare the

pot-au-feu adding a as described described in pot-ou-feu as in the the preceding recipe, recipe. adding pork and stuffed with of fresh fresh pork chicken stutfed with aa forcemeat made made of onion, garlic, chopped Bayonne ham, ham, mixed with chopped onion, parsley chicken liver. parsley and cbicken Serve as described in the basic recipe for Pot-au-feu. Serve POI-au-feu. Prepare like the basic PolPot-au-feu Pot-au-fcu ài la languedocienne -- Prepare PO/blanched and and offat au-feu, adding a piece of fat bacon previously blanched rinsed in cold water. Pot-au-feu. Serve as indicated in the basic recipe for POI-(llIjeu.

vegetables. garnished consomm6 garnished Consomm6 ài la bourgeoise -- Simple consommé LOIlS()mme carrots and turnips, with diced carroIs turnips, diced potatoes potatoes boiled boiled in stock, chervil leaves. and chervilleaves. garnished with 2 consomm6 garnished Consomm6 Brancas Consommé Bral1cas -- Simple consommé sorrel,22 chffinade ofJettuce of lettuce and sorrel, tablespoons tablespoons) chiJfonade tablespoons (3 tablespoons) (3 tablespoons) vermicelli poached in stock, 22 tablespoons (3 poached in (3 tablespoons) tablespoons (3 tablespoons) julienne julienne of mushrooms musbrooms fried fried in leaves. butter. butter. and chervil chervilleaves. Serve boiling coNsouuE AU IAIN Consomm6 Consommé with bread. CONSOMMÉ PAJN -- Serve consomm6 with aa plate of long French bread, thinly consommé thinly sliced and dried in oven, and grated ln the oyen, grated cheese. Consomm6 Chicken consomme, consomm6, thickConsommé Brillat-Savarin - Chicken

CONSOMMES coNsonaMEs clnlus CONSOMMÉS WlfU WJTH GARNISHES. GARNISHES. CONSOMMEs GARNISThe recipes recipes which follow have been been worked out for 5 persons and are based of consomm6s: based on various kinds of consommés: beef, beef, chicken, game, The quantity ofconsamme of consomm6 required is l| 1t litres (2f game, fish. Thequantity pints, 3f pints). pims,3f Directions for of these for the the supplementary ingredients ingredients of these consomm6s will be found under the GARNISHES. lhe heading heading GARNISHES. consommés In consomm6 has to be thickened of these recipes the consommé ln some sorne ofthese with arrowroot, arrowroot, starch or or tapioca. This This liaison should be very 1iaison should just sufficient consommE a mellow light, sufficient to tO give the consommé meHow texture. text ure. light, just simple consommé Consomm6 ià I'alsacienne consomm6 aùù add l'alsacienne _. 0 simple Consommé - TTo sauerkraut cooked and Strasbourg sausages S!.1usages (see (see cooked in in stock stock and SAUSAGES), cut into slices. SA USAGES), poached, skinned and cut Consomm6 consomm6 thickConsommé i l'ambassadrice l'ambassadrice -- Chicken consommé ened with wilh tapioca, garnished gamished with wÎth 24 small, truffied chicken quenelles and 12 5mall purbe of small profiteroles filled with a purée profiteroles fiJled of Foie gras and andchervil cherviJ leaves. leal/es. All consomm6s, thickened with arrowroot or AJI garnished consommés, tapioca, strained through lapioca, should should be be strained through a a muslin muslin cloth cloth immediately after effected. aCter the liaison has has been effeçted. Consomm6 Consommé ià I'am6ricaine l'américaine 1I -- Proceed as as described in the recipe for Consomm4 Consommé dà la madriline madrilène 1L JI. Serve Serve cold in cups.

(3 tableened with ened with tapioca, lapioca, garnished with 2 tablespoons (3 spoons) chicken, 2 julienne of breast of of chicken, 2 tablespoons lablespoons (3 spoons) julienne (crdpes) cut into lozenges,2 tablespoons) savoury pancakes (crêpes) lozenges, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chffinade of lettuce, labJespoons) chiJlollade lelluce, sorrel and chervil leaves. chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé brunoisebnmoise - Cut Cul into inta small small dice 33 small small carrots, I1 (l oz., f cup) small 3leeks sma11 turnip,2to t urnip, 2 to 3 leeks (white part pan only), 25 g. (1 chopped onion and 50 g. g. (2 oz., -1i cup) of the white part of celery. gently in 50 g. Season Season with salt and a pinch of sugar. Cook genlly (2 oz., i cup) butter Moisten buller in a covered covered pan for 25 minutes. Moisten with cups) consomm6 wit h 33 dl. (| pint, lf l tcups) consommé and cook for for an hour. 25 minutes before serving, serving. add a tablespoon fresh fresh garden garden peas diced French beans. Add l+ and a tablespoon diçed li litres (2f pints, pinlS. 2| consomm6. Boil 2i pints) consommé. Boil for for a a few few minutes, minules, skim and sprinkle with wÎth chervil leaves. leaves. 870 870

AND BROTHS BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS thickened with Consomm6 ài la Crécy Cr6cy -- Chicken Chicken consommé consomm6 thickened Consommé garnished with a brunoise of carrots lightly cooked cooked in brunol'se of tapioca, garnished chervil leaves. butter, and chervilleaves. garden cresso cress. CONSOMMÉ coNsoutrrf AU au CRESSON cREssoN Consomm6 "ith with garden Consommé nrfNols - Pick the leaves off offthe of garden cress, blanch ALÉNOlSthe stalks of in cold rinse in for aa minute minute in in salted salted water, drain drain and and rinse cold them for (scant quart, quart, generous quart) quart) boiling Add to to 1I litre litre (scant water. Add consomm6. consommé. Pot-au-feu consommé consommE garnished Consomm6 croûte croiite au pot -- Pot-au-feu Consommé (carrots, turnips, vegetables (carrots, turnips, leeks leeks and and with the the stockpot stockpot vegetables with cabbage) cut in small pieces. oven, hollowed-out crusts of bread dried in the oyen, Serve with hollowed-out or sprinkled with stockpot fat and browned lightly. I'ancienne - As above. Serve with Consomm6 cro0te au pot à i l'ancienne-As hollowed-out crusts of bread filled filled with with chopped chopped stockpot stockpot grill. vegetables under aa grill. oven or under Vo;;;~;o;;;l<'UI'"'' and browned in the oyen thickened with consomm6 thickened Consomm6 Dalayrac - Chicken consommé LOlnS4[)mmè garnished with with aa julienne of breast breast of of chic chicken, tapioca, garnished tapioca, julienne of ken, truffies. mushrooms and truffles. consomm6 thickened thickened aux diablotins diablotins -- Chicken consommé Consommé Consomn6 aux bread covered covered with cheese Serve with slices of bread with tapioca. Serve for diablotins. diablotins. and browned as described in the recipe for in conconPearl barley cooked cooked in I'ecossaise - Pearl Consommé Consomm6 ài l'écossaise garnished with a julienne of carrot, carrot, celery celery and and leek, somm6, garnished sommé, chervil leaves. lightly cooked cooked in butter, and chervilleaves. VII -- Chicken Chicken consommé consomm6 thickened thickened LOinS4[)mmè Cortsomm6 Edward VU slices royale of truffles, truffies, thin thin slices arrowroot, garnished with aa royale with arrowroot, (see CHICKEN) asparagus tips. CHICKEN) and and asparagus of cold cold Chicken Chicken loaf (see of port to the consommé. consomm6. tablespoons ofport Add a few tablespoons thickened with with consomm6 thickened flip - Chicken consommé Consommé Consomm6 àd la la flip and leeks, leeks, lightly lightly tapioca, garnished with with ajulienne a julienne of lettuce and into the Add dropped into the consommé. consomm6. Add cooked cooked in butter butter and and dropped chervil leaves. in julienne stnps, strips, and and chervilleaves. cooked cooked ham cut injulienne garnished with with Basic consommé consomm6 garnished Consommé Consomm6 Florence Florence - Basic Add to to the the boiJing consomm6 àir vermicelli cooked in stock. stock. Add boiling consommé vermicelli cooked in Cover the the saucepan saucepan and and simmer simmer julienne of uncooked truffies. Coyer uncooked truffles. without aliowing allowing it to boil. Consommé Consomm6 ài la la florentine florentine -* Chicken Chicken consommé consommb with with eufs (3 table(see GARNISHES, Spun eggs), 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 filés filts (see leaves. spoons) rice cooked cooked in in stock, and chervil leaves. with thickened with LOlnS4)mme Florette -- Chicken Chicken consommé consomm6 thickened Consomm6 Florette julienne of garnished with in with aa juliel/ne of leek, leek, lightly lightly cooked cooked in tapioca, garnished fresh cream in stock. Serve with with tthick cream butter, and hick fresh rice cooked cooked in stock. Serve and nce and cheese. and grated Parmesan cheese. gauloise -- Chicken consomm6 thickened thickened LOlnsc)mmé la gauloise Chicken consommé Consomm6 ài la poached cocks' garnished with small, poached cocks' with with very small, with tapioca, tapioca, garnished in jillienrce strips, strips, combs, cut injùli/!/me kidneys, pancakes cut combs, small small cocks' cocks' kidneys, and and chervilleaves. chervil leaves. (okra or or ladies' ladies' fingers) d Consommé with gombos (okra Consomm6 "ith l'orientale. GoMBos .ÀA L'ORIENTALE t'oruBNteI-n -- FennelI'orientale. coNsouu6 AUX AUX GOMBOS potato rice or flavoured thickened with with rice or potato flavoured chicken chicken consommé consomm6 thickened (okra), blanched, gombos (okra), garnished with drained, and and fiour, with gombos blanched, drained, flour, garnished rice cooked in stock stock and and spiced spiced cooked with rice cooked in cooked in in stock; stock; and and with pepper. with pinch of with aa pinch of cayenne cayenne pepper. tomato Consommé consomm6 with with tomato Chicken consommé Grimaldi - Chicken Consomm6 Grimaldijuice, garnished garnished with in stock, stock, juice, of celeriac celeriac cooked cooked in with aa juleinne of tomato tomato royale royale and and chervilleaves. chervil leaves. Consommé seasoned with with Consomm6 seasoned la hollandaise hollandaise - Consommé Consomm6 ài la (3 tablespoons) paprika, garnished garnished with paprika, tablespoons) small small with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) quenelles quenelles of diced tablespoons) diced of calf's calf 's liver, liver, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 bone poached in in stock, stock, and and chervilleaves. chervil leaves. marrow poached bone marrow Consommé thickened with with rice rice Consomm6 thickened houblonniire -- Consommé Consomm6 houblonnière or garnished with in stock, potato flour, with hop hop shoots shoots cooked cooked in stock, or potato flour, garnished and and chervilleaves. chervil leaves. juice, Consommé tomato juice, Fish consommé consomm6 with with tomato Hudson -- Fish Consomm6 Hudson thickened garnished with into with crab crab flesh flesh cut cut into with arrowroot, arrowroot, garnished thickened with small pieces, diced in stock, stock, and and chervil chervil cooked in small pieces, diced cucumbers cucumbers cooked leaves. leaves.

Fresh garden garden peas and French French beans beans can be replaced by the tinned (canned) (canned) variety, vanety, in which case they are added only at serving. the last moment, moment, just just before before serving. various garnishes -- Prepare Consomm6 Consommé brunoise with "ith vanous Prepare the tbe soup as above. Add Add garnish, such such as as pasta as described described above. pasta products, tapioca, pearl barley, rice, semolina, semolina, etc., etc., which which can either be cooked cooked in the consommé consomm6 itself, or "'-'j-Ja1 separately. ,a',"1] served with very Consommt also be Consommé brunoise brunoise can can also be served very small poached (savand plain royale (savpoached eggs, eggs, quenelles, profiteroles, and oury custard, cut into slices and then into fancy fancy shapes) or a royale of (See GARNISHES.) GARNISHES.) royale of vegetables. (See thickened with Consommé Consomm6 ià la cancalaise consomm6 thickened cancalaise -- Fish consommé (see garnished with arrowroot, gamished with 24 24 small small Pike Pike quenelles (see arrowroot, poached, de-bearded and cut in in QUENELLES), QUENELLES), 12 oysters, poacbed, half, and chervilleaves. chervil leaves. Consommé C6lestine Célestine -- Chicken consommé Consomm6 consomm€ thickened with garnished with 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) small tapioca, garnished of rolled pancakes pancakes stuffed slices of stuffed with Chicken forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT), and chervilleaves. FORCEMEAT), chervil leaves. Consommé chasseur Consomm6 consomm6, thickened with chasseur -- Game consommé, (3 tablespoons) garnished with tablespoons (3 juliwith 2 tablespoons tablespoons) julitapioca, garnished (3 tablespoons, enne of mushrooms cooked in in I dl. enne dl. (3 tablespoons, scant f cup) 20 small cup) Madeira Madeira wine, and and chervil leaves. Serve Serve with 20 profiteroles filled with game game pur6e. Consommé aux cheveux d'ange - Basic consomm€ garConsomm6 aux tablespoons (* cup) fine, poached vermicelli. nished with 4 tablespoons AUX ABATIS DE Consommé coNsoruuf AUX Consomm6 "ith with chîcken chicken giblets. CONSOMMÉ put into VOLAILLE Prepare aa pot-au-feu and ken . into itit 4 chic voLAILLE -- Prepare chicken and put pinions (wing tips) and 2 necks, necks, cut into 3 or 4 pieces and tied tied piece ofmuslin. in a piece of muslin. pinions and Serve the consommé and the pot-au-feu consomm6 with the pinions vegetables V'"I','-'l
871 871

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS Consomm6 Consommé ià I'imp6riale l'impériale -- Proceed as described described in in the recipe

to boiling boiling consomm6, consommé, Neige de de Florence, Florence, accompaniment to which the guests soup themselves. guests add to the soup Neige de Florence, F/orence, aapasta pasta product produet which is found in shops, Neige is is a substance presented in the shape of of extremely extremely fine white flakes. flakes. Consommé Nesselrode Nesselrode -- Game Game consomm6 consomme with with profiteroles profileroles Consomm6 filled filled with with Chestnut purte purée soubise (mixture of of onion on ion and chestnut pur6es purées -- see see PUREE, PURÉE, Vegetable purtes) purées) and and a chestnut mushrooms. salpicon sa/picoll of ofmushrooms. Consommé Nemrod -- Game consomm6, consomme, thickened with Consomm6 arrowroot, arrowroot, flavoured Aavoured with with 2 2 tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) port, port, garnished garnished with with 4 4 tablespoons tablespoons $ (1 cup) cup) very very small quenelles quenelles made made of of game game forcemeat forcemeat mixed mixed with with chopped truffies. truffies. Consomm6 Consommé with noodles. coNsourr,m CONSOMMÉ AUx AUX NoUILLEs NOUILLES - ConConsomm6 sommé with 70 to 90 g. (2t (2~ to to 3| 31 oz.) fresh noodles, noodles, threequarters cooked in in water, water, drained drained and and finished finished off in the consomm6. consommé. Serve Serve with grated grated cheese. Consomn6 Consommé ià la d'Orl6ans d'Orléans -- Chicken consommE consommé thickened thickened with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished with with 4 tablespoons tablespoons (f (1 cup) small quenelles made made of of three three kinds kinds of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT): FORCEMEA T): one with cream, cream, one with tomato tomato and one with pistachio pistachio nuts nuts or spinach. Add a sprinkling of of chervil chervil leaves. leaves. Oxtail consommé or soup soup ià la frangaise. française. coNsoMuf CONSOMMÉ ou OU Oxla.il consomm6 porAGE POTAGE euEUE QUEUE DE DE BoEUF BOEUF iÀ ra LA rne,rqeArsE FRANÇAISE - Put 2 kg: kg. (4+ (4t lb.) lb.) oxtail, cut eut into into chunks, with with 500 g. g. (generous 1 lb.) veal veal knuckle knuckle into into a stockpot. stockpot. Add Add 33 litres (5f (5k pints, pints, 6| 6t pints) white stock. Bring Bring to the the boil, boil, skim, season, season, add the the usual usual vegetable vegetable garnish gamish and and simmer gently, gently, so that boiling boiling is is hardly perceptible, for for 55 hours. hours. Strain the the stock. stock. Pour Pour it into a pot pot into into which which you you have have put 400 400 g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) lean lean beefand beef and veal, veaJ, chopped, chopped, browned browned in in butter, butter, and sprinkled sprinkled with with a tablespoon tabJespoon of of arrowroot arrowroot (cornstarch). (cornstarch). Clarify, Ciarify, strain the the stock stock through a a muslin cloth cloth or a a fine strainer. Add Add the the pieces pieces of of oxtail oxtaiJ and 250 250 g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) carrots carrots and strainer. turnips, scooped scooped out to look look like like small, uniform uniform balls balls and and cooked in stock. stock. This soup soup used used to to be be called called grand p,rand hochepot. hochepot. Consommé ià la parisienne parisienne -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé with with a Consomm6 mactdoine macédoine of vegetables, vegetables, slices of plain plain royale, and chervil chervil leaves. leaves. Consomm6 Consommé with "ith pasta pasta products. products. coNsolvlMf CONSOMMÉ lux AUX pArrs PÂTES D'ITlqltn D'ITALIE -- Pour Pour 75 75 to to 90 90 g. g. (3 (3 to to 3t 31 oz., scant seant cup) cup) pasta pasta into'lj into 1t litres litres (2f (2~ pints, pints, 3f, 3! pints) pints) boiling boiling consomm6. consommé. Cook, Cook, keeping keeping up up slow but but sustained sustained boiling boiling from 8Il to l2 12 minutes, minutes, depending depending on on the the nature nature ofthe of the pasta. pasta. Serve Serve with with grated grated cheese. cheese. Consommé with with pearl barley. barley. coNsoum CONSOMMÉ A À L'oRcr L'ORGE prnr6 PERLÉ -Consomm6 Consomm6 with 75 Consomméwith 75 g. g. (3 oz.,l oz., 1 cup) pearl pearl barley, barley, washed washed in in wann warm water, water, blanched blanched and and cooked cooked in in white white stock stock for for 2j hours. hours. The The barley bar/ey can be be cooked in in the the consomm6. consommé. Consomm6 Consommé P6pita Pépita -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé with wit h tomato tomato juice, juice, seasoned seasoned with with paprika, paprika, garnished with with tomato tomato royale royale (see GARNISHES, GARNISHES, Royale of of tomato lomato purte) purée) cut eut in in dice, dice, peeled peeled and and diced diced pimentos pimentos cooked cooked in in stock, and and chervil chcrvll leaves. Jeaves. Comomm6 Consommé with with plover ployer or lapwing lapwing eggs. eggs, coNsorauf CONSOMMÉ lux AUX oEUFs OEUFS DE DE pLLrvrER. PLUVIER, DE DE vANNEAU VANNEAU -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé with with poached poached plover ployer or or lapwing Japwing eggs. eggs. Consomm6 Consommé with with poached poached eggs. eggs. coNsoutrm CO:-lSOMMÉ AUx AUX oEUFS OEUFS pocHes POCHÉS -- Consomm6 Consommé garnished garoished with with six small small poached poached eggs. eggs. Consomm6 Consommé princesse princesse -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé thickened thickened with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished garnished with wilh very very small chicken chic ken forcemeat forcemeat quenelles, elles, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) green green asparagus asparagus tips, tips, and and chervil leaves. chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé Princess Princess Alice Alice -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé thickened thiekened with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished gamished with with a tablespoon tablespoon of of aa julienne julienne of of artichoke artichoke hearts, hearts, aa tablespoon tablespoon of of a chffinnade chiffonnade of of lettuce, Jettuce, 22

for Consommé Consommi dà la /a gauloise, p,au/oise, replacing the savoury pancakes pancakes by rice cooked in stock and adding some fresh garden garden peas, peas, cooked cooked in water water and drained. Consomm6 consomm6 thickened with Consommé ià I'infante l'infante -- Chicken Chic ken consommé wilh arrowroot. Serve small profiteroles Serve with 24 small profiteroles filled with a pur6e purée of offoie with thick chicken Veloutt Velouté (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). foie gras mixed with Consomm6 Consommé iil I'irlandaise l'irlandaise -- Simple Simple consomm6 consommé with with a salpicon of mutton mut ton cooked in the consomm6, consommé, pearl barley, barley, diced stockpot leaves. stockpot vegetables, and chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé ià lnitalienne l'italienne -- Chicken consomm6 consommé garnished garnished with three three kinds of of Roycle Royale (see GARNISHES), GARNISHES), cut into dice or oy ale of chicken pur6e, o y ale of asparagus tips or slices slices:: rroyale of chicken purée, rroyale of asparagus tips and royale leaves. royale of of tomato tomato pur6e. purée. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé julienne julielme -- Cut 3 small small carrots,'l carrots, 1 small turnip, turoip, 22 leeks (white part part only), a0 40 g. g. (lj (lt oz., ]~ cup) chopped onion leeks (white and 40 g. (ltoz.,*cup) (1 t oz., t cup) tender tender celery celery into very very thin th in sticks sticks 2-5 cm. (l (l inch) long. Season sugar. Soften Season with a pinch of of salt and another another of ofsugar. Soften in a pan pan in 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz., f cup) cup) butter but ter on slow slow heat heat for for 25 25 minutes. mi n utes. Add 50 g. cut into julienne g. (2 (2 oz., i~ cup) cabbage cabbage heart heart eut julienne strips, blanched bJanched and drained, and a shredded shredded lettuce. lettuce. Cook Cook everything everything together, with the the lid on, for 45 minutes. Moisten with 3 dl. $ (t pint,.l| pint, J; cups) consomm6 consommé and simmer gently for 35 minutes. minutes. 25 minutes before add25 before serving, add 25 g. (l (l oz., f;~ cup) sorrel sorre! shredded and a shredded into into a a fine fine chffinnade chijfonnade and a tablespoon tablespoon fresh fresh garden garden peas. peas. Add 1+ I± litres Litres (2f (2! pints, 2f; 2* pints) pints) consomm6, consommé, boil boiJ for a few seconds, skim, add chervil leaves. ehervilleaves. Consomn6 Consommé julienne julienne with with various varions garnishes. garnishes. coNsoMlr,IE CONSOMMÉ JULTENNE JULIENNE AVEC AVEC cARNrruREs GARNITURES DIvERsEs DIVERSES -- This This consomm6, consommé. based based on on meat, meat, fish fish or vegetable vegetable stock, stock, can can be be served served with with the following following garnishes: garnishes: pasta pasta products, products, pearl pearl barley, barley, rice, riee, semolina semolina or or tapioca. tapioca. canalso Quenelles, profiteroles profiteroles or or ordinary ordinary royale royale can also be be added added Quenelles, it. to toit. Consomm6liopold Consommé Léopold -- Consomm6 Consommé thickened thickened with with semolina. semolina. Add Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) of a julienne julienne of sorrel lightly leaves. lightly cooked in butter, butter, and and chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé Icverrier [,everrier -- Chicken Chic ken consomm6 consommé thickened thickened with with tapioca, clut out tapioca, garnished gamished with with various various royales royales eut out in in the the shape shape of stars, leaves. stars, and sprinkled sprinkled with with chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé with with macaroni. macaroni. coNsoMMf CONSOMMÉ lu AU uaclRoNr MACARONI Consomm6 Consommé garnished garoished with with macaroni macaroni cut eut in in very very small sm311 pieces pieees and and three-quarters three-quarters cooked cooked in in salted salted water, water, drained, drained, and finished finished offin ofl" in the the consomm6. consommé. Serve Serve with with grated grated cheese. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la madriline madrilène I1 -- Chicken Chic ken consomm6 consommé with with 22 dl. pint, scant seant cup) concentrated tomato tomato pulp pulp added to to it, it, $(1 pint, seasoned seasoned with with aa pinch pinch ofcayenne of cayenne pepper. pepper. This This is is mostly mostly served served very very cold cold in in cups. eups. Consomm6 Consommé a a la madriline madriléne II II -- Prepare the consomm6, consommé, adding adding to to it it during clarification 33 dl. (+ (1- pint,'l{ pint, It cups) raw raw tomato tomato pulp puJp rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. Strain the the consomm6 consommé through a a muslin muslin cloth, cloth, pressing pressing lightly, lightly, and and chill chilI before before serving. serving. Diced Diced sweet sweet pimentos, pimentos, cooked in in stock, stock, are are often often added added to to consommt consommé madrilbne. madrilène. Consomm6 Consommé Merc6dGs Mercédès -- Chicken Chicken consomm6, consommé, with with I1- dl. dl. (scant (seant pint,Zf, pint, 2;\ cups) cups) sherry and aa pinch of of cayenne cayenne pepper pepper added, added, garnished with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) cocks' cocks' kidneys, kidneys, skinned and and cut eut in in very very thin thin slices, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tabJespoons) cocks' combs, split in in two two and and cut eut into into star shapes, leaves. shapes, and and chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la messine messine -- Petite Petile marmite marmite consomm6, consommé, with with very very small chipolata chipolata sausages, sa usages, poached poached and and skinned, and and small small cabbage cabbage rolls. rolls. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la neige neige de de Florence Florence -- Serve separately separately as as an an

±

2t

872

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS Their Their preparation preparation is is similar to to that of hot hot consomm6s. consommés.

tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) fine vermicelli vermicelli cooked in stock, and leaves. and chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 printanier - Consomm6 Consommé with spring vegetables vegetables added to it, sprinkled ~n,,', nlr Ip·ri with wi th chervil leaves. lea yeso Consomm6 Consc)mmé printanier aux aux perles perles or au au riz - As As above. above. Reduce Reduce the the proportion proportion of of vegetables and add barley barley or rice cooked cooked in in stock, stock, sprinkle sprinkle with chervil cherviJ leaves. leaves. Poached Poached eggs, eggs, quenelles, quenelles, profiteroles, profiteroles, royales, royales, etc., can also be be served served in consommt consommé printanier. printanier. Consomm6 Consommé with with profiteroles. coNsorrlu6 CONsoMMÉ lux AUX pRoFrrERoLES PROFITEROLES Consommé thickened thickened with tapioca, tapioca, sprinkled sprinkled with with chervil chervil - Consomm6

They should shouJd be be strongly strongly flavoured and very very clear. Celery-flavoured consomm6. CONSOMMÉ A À r'rssENcE L'ESSENCE DE DE consommé. coNsorrau6

lt

3*

cfLERI.- Prepare l| litres (2f pints, 3f pints) consomm6. consommé. Clarify and add half half a bunch of finely chopped chopped celery. Strain and chill before before serving. serving. Consomm6 Consommé flavoured flavoured with with game game fumet. fumet. coNsoMlrf CONSOMMÉ .c,u AU rut FUMET Er DE for Game DE cIBIER GIBIER - Prepare as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for consomm|. consommé. Tarragon-flavoured consomm6. CONSOMME coNsouuf A A L'ESsnNcE, L'ESSENCE D'EsrRAGoN D'ESTRAGON - Add Add 20 g. @ tablespoons, *cup) cup) fresh tarragon tarragon leaves leaves to to consomm6 consommé before straining. Leave to infuse infuse without boiling. boiling. Strain and serve serve as described above. Tomato-flavoured consomm6 consommé -- See See Consommt Consommé h il Ia la madrilbne. rilène. Trufre'flavoured Truffie-flavoured consomm6. consommé. coNsottw CONSOMMÉ A À r'nssENcE L'ESSENCE DE DE TRUFFES TRUFFESclarified consomm6 consommé 60 g. g. Q (2 oz., OZ., 2 cups) cups) - Add to clarified parings fresh truffies. Strain, remove parings of offresh remove sn.plus surplus fat, and ad-d add 22 tablespoons tabJespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Madeira Madeira or or port. Consomm6 Consommé with with various various wines. wiues. coNsoMMf CONSOMMÉ ,lux AUX vrNs VINS prvERs DIVERSClarify and and strain consomm6. consommé. When it is nearly cold, add various various wines, wines, such as Madeira, Madeira, Marsala, Marsala, Port, sherry, etc., allowing allowing about 88 to to l0 lOci. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant f!cup) per litre cl. (6 cup) per (scant (scant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) consomm6. consommé.

leaves. leaves. Serve fiJled Serve withprofiteroles with profiteroles filled

with with pur6e. purée. Consomm6 Consommé with with quenelles. coNsoMrr,rn CONSOMMÉ AUx AUX eUENELLEs QUENELLES --

Clear or thickened thickened consomm6 consommé garnished garnished with with chicken chicken or other other quenelles, quenelles, and and sprinkled sprinkled with witb chervil chervil leaves. leaves. Consomm6 Consommé Rachel Rachel - Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé thickened thickened with tapioca, tapioca, garnished garnished with with very very small chicken forcemeat forcemeat quenelles, lettuce rolls, elles, small smalllettuce roUs, filled fiJJed with with pur6e purée of of Chicken Chicken sautt sauté dà la crime, leaves. crème, and and chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé with with ravioli. ravioli. coNsorrarr,r6 CONSOMMÉ AUx AUX RAvroLr RAV10Ll -- ThickThickened ened or or clear clear consomm6 consommé with with 24 24 small small ravioli, ravioli, filled filled according according to leaves. to taste taste and and sprinkled sprinkled with with chervil chervilleaves. Consomm6 Consommé dà Ia la reine reine -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé thickened thickened with with tapioca, garnished garnished with with plain plain royale, royale, aa julienne julienne of of breast breast of of chicken, and and chervil cherviJ leaves. leaves. Consomm6 Consommé ià la Ja Reine-Jeanne Reine-Jeanne -- Chicken Chicken consomm6 consommé thickthickened ened with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished garnished with with very very small small chicken chicken quenelles leaves. quenelles and and chervil chervilleaves. Serve Serve with with profiteroles filled filled with with aa chicken chicken pur6e purée bound bound with with almond almond milk. Consomm6 CONSOMMÉ AU AU Rrz RIZ -- Consomm6 Consommé to to Consommé with with rice. rice. coNSoMMt which which 60 60 to to 80 80 g. g. (2 (2 or or 33 oz., oz., f,t to to I cup) cup) rice, ri ce, cooked cooked in in white white stock, stock, isis added. added. Serve Serve with with grated cheese. cheese. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la royale -- Chicken Chicken consomm6, consommé, thickened thickened with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished with with diced diced royale, royale, and and sprinkled sprinkJed with with chervil chervil leaves. [eaves. Consomm6 Consommé with with sago. sago. coNsonaw CONSOMMÉ AU AU sAcou SAGOU -- Using Using sago, sago,

THICK SOUPS. porAGEs POTAGES r.$s LIÉS -- Cream, pur6e purée and and veloutt velouté

soups soups are are classed classed in in this this category. category. Cream Cream soups soups are are composed composed of of a pur6e purée of of shellfish, shellfish, vegetables, vegetables, fish, or or poultry, poultry, thickened thickened with with Bbchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Pur6es Purées of starchy starchy vegetables vegetables or leguminous leguminous plants plants are composed pV''''V'"''', composed ofvegetables ofvegetables rich rich in starch, starch, such as sweet sweet potatoes, potatoes, pVla,.v",,,, etc.; of of leguminous leguminous plants, plants, such as as white or red red

dried beans, beans, kidney kidney beans, beans, lentils lentils split split peas, peas, etc. etc. These These ingredients, ingredients, being being sufficiently sufficiently rich rich in starch starch content, content, require require no no additional additional element element for for the the purpose of of liaison. liaison. Pur6es Purées offresh offresh vegetables, vegetables, less rich in in starch, starch, are are thickened thickened with with additional additional elements: cooked cooked rice rice or aa pur6e purée of some sorne other other vegetable vegetable richer richer in in starch starch content. content. Meat, Meat, poultry or or fish fish pur6es are are composed composed of of these these various various ingredienrs ingredienrs with the the addition of of supplementary supplementary liaison: liaison: rice, ri ce, bread leguminous plants bread to to pulp, pulp, pur6es purées of ofleguminous plants or or cereals. cereals. Shellfish Shellfish pur6e purée soups, soups, better better known as bisques, bisques, which which are are thickened thickened with with rice rice or, or, according to to the the old method, method, with bread bread reduced reduced to to pulp, pulp, are are also also classified in in this this category. category. Vefout6s Veloutés are are also also composed of of aa pur6e, purée, bound bound with veloat| velouté and and with with aa final final liaison liaison of egg yolks yolks and and cream. cream.

proceed proceed as as above. above. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert -- Game Game consomm6 consommé thickened thickened

with with tapioca, tapioca, garnished garnished with with a a game game prrfie purée royale royale and and aa julienne mushrooms cooked julienne of ofmushrooms cooked in in butter butter with with Madeira. Madeira. Consomm6 Consommé with with salep. salep. coNsouu6 CONsoMMÉ AU AU sALEp SALEP -- Using Using salep, salep, proceed proceed as as described described in in the the recipe recipe above. above. Consomm6 Consommé with with semolina. semolina. coNSoMMt CONSOMMÉ AÀ r,l LA sEMouLE SEMOULE - Pour Pour 75 semolina 75 to to 90 90 g. (3 (3 to to 3! 3t o2.,1"up) oz., t semolina into into l1jt litres litres (2f (2i pints, pints, 3f pints) boiling consomm6. 18 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve consommé. Simmer 18

CREAM CREAM SOUPS. SOUPS. porAGEs POTAGES cRtMEs CRÈMES -- Soups, Soups, the the basic basic element element of of which which includes includes aa certain certain quantity quantity of of bbchamel, béchamel,

with grated grated cheese. cheese. Consomm6 Consommé ià la la strasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise -- Consomm6 Consommé flavoured flavoured with with aa light light infusion infusion ofjuniper of juniper berries, berries, thickened thickened with with rice rice or or potato potato flour, flour, garnished gamished with with 44 tablespoons tablespoons ({ (1 cup) cup) of of aa julienne julienne of of red red cabbage cooked cooked in in stock stock and and aa Strasbourg '""',,,,""UV",, sausage, poached, poached, skinned and and cut cut in in thin thin slices. slices. Serve Serve with

finished finished offwith off with fresh fresh cream. cream.

Like Like all aIl other other thickened thickened soups, soups, cream cream soups soups can can be be julienne, garnished garnished with with pasta pasta products, products, rice, rice, barley, barley, tapioca, tapioca,julienne, brunoise, chffinnade, chiffonnade, quenelles, quenelles, cro0tons, croûtons, etc. etc. brunoise, The The recipes recipes which which follow follow have have been been worked worked out out to to serve serve 44 to to 66 helpings. preparing cream Basic method of ofpreparing cream soups soups (vegetable). (vegetable). Shred Shred

grated horseradish. Consomm6 with tapioca. coNsoMMf CONSOMMÉ AU AU TAprocA TAPIOCA -- Pour Pour 80 80

and blanch blanch the the vegetable vegetable indicated indicated and and cook cook in in butter, butter, and allowing 60 60 to to 80 80 g. g. (2to (2 to 33 o2.,6 oz., 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter to to 500 500 g. g. allowing (generous' (generouslI lb.) vegetable. vegetable. Add 88 dl. dl. (llpints, llpints) btchamelprepared béchamel prepared by by diluting Add tablespoons) butter butter and and 45 45 e. g. Q a white roux of 35 g. (ll o2.,3 tablespoons) (1t pints, pints, 22 pints) pints) milk. miJk. Simmer Sim mer oz., ! cup) flour, with 8+ dl. (l+ very gently gently from from 12 12 to l8 minutes, minutes, depending depending on on the the nature nature of of very the vegetables vegetables used. used. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Heat Heat and and blend blend in in 22 the dl. $ pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) fresh fresh cream. cream. dl. of artichoke artichoke soup. soup. porAcs POTAGE cRir,rc CRÈME D'ARTTcHAUTS D'ARTICHAuTS -Cream of Cook eight eight blanched blanched and and sliced sliced artichoke artichoke hearts hearts in in butter. butter. Cook Add 88 dl. dl. (l+ (1 t pints, pints, lf; 1i pints) pints) btchamel béchamel and simmer simmer gently gently for for Add

100 g. (3 to 4 oz.,!to3"up) tapioca tapioca into ioto lllitres H·litres (2f; (2t pints, pints, 3f pints) boiling boiling consomm6. consommé. Stir to to avoid avoid formation formation of oflumps lumps and cook, 15 to cook, keeping keeping up up sustained sustained boiling boiling from from ·15 to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve with with grated grated Parmesan Parmesan cheese. cheese.

to

Consomm6 Consommé with with vermicelli. vermicelli. coNsol,tME CONSOMMÉ .cu AU vERMTcELLE VERMICELLE --

Pour Pour 75 75 to to 90 90 g.g. (3 (3 to to 3| 3t oz., OZ., It cup) cup) vermicelli vermicelli into into l j litres (2f (2t pints, pints, 3| pints) pints) boiling consommE. consommé. Cook, Cook, keeping up sustained 12 minutes, minutes, depending on the tained boiling, boiling, from from 5 to to 12 thickness thickness of ofthe tbe vermicelli. vermicelli. Serve Serve with with grated Parmesan.

3*

COLD COLD CONSOMMES. CONSOMMÉS. coNsorarurs CONSOMMÉS rRons FROIDS -- These Tbese conconsomm6s, sommés, intended intended for for luncheons luncheons or or suppers, suppers, are are served served in in cups. cups.

l2 12 minutes. minutes. 873 873

SOUPS AND BROTHS Rub through a sieve. Dilute Dilute with 2 dl. ($ (1 pint, scant cup) white white consomm6 consommé and heat to boiling point. Add seasoning if if necessary, and and 2 dl. dl. (] (1 pint, scant seant cup) cup) fresh fresh cream and and a tablespoon chervil leaves. Jeaves. Cream asparagus soup Cream of of asparagus soup (green). (green). porAGE POT AGE cntuB CRÈME D'AspEncEs D'ASPERGES vERTEs VERTES - As above, using green asparagus asparagus tips, inthe blanched cooked slowly slowly in the btchamel. béchamel. blanched and cooked Cream Cream of of white white asparagus, called called Argenteuil. Argenteuil. porlcn POT AGE cRtME CRÈME D'AspERcEs of I D'ASPERGES BLANcHES, BLANCHEs, Drr DIT ARGENTEun ARGENTEUIL - Using Using the tips of! ke.Q*lb.) kg. (2t lb.) white white asparagus asparagus blanched blanched and simmered simmered in butter in a covered covered pan, pan, proceed as described described in the recipe recipe for Cream of of artichoke artichoke soup. soup. Rub Rub through through a sieve sieve as soon soon as the asparagus asparagus is is put put into into the btchamel. béchamel. barley soup Cream Cream of ofbarley soup I. porAcE POTAGE cn*rvn CRÈME D'oRcE D'ORGE -- Wash 300 g. (Il (r 1 oz., l| 1t cups) pearl barley in several waters and soak soak it for an hour hour in wann warm water. Put Put itit into 88 dl. (l* (1 t pints,.lf pints, 1* pints) pints) for an white consommé, add a sliced stalk of of celery, celery, bring bring to the boil white consomm6, and simmer 2thours. sim mer gently for 2t hours. Rub Rub through through a a sieve, sieve, dilute dilute with with a a few few tablespoons tablespoons consomm6, consommé, heat and finish off off with 2 dl. $ (1 pint, scant cup) fresh fresh cream. cream. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) pearl barley cooked in consomm6. consommé. The The consomm6 consommé can be replaced replaced by by milk. Cream of barley soup II. n. porAGE POTAGE cntrrm CRÈME D'oRGE D'ORGE - Using Using barley flour, proceed proceed as described described in the recipe for Cream Cream of oatmeal oatmeal soup soup (see (see below). below). Cream of bean soup. porAce POTAGE cntlrE CRÈME DE HARrcors HARICOTS vERTs VERTS Like Like Cream Cream of ofartichoke artichoke soup,replacing soup, replacing the the artichokes by 500 g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) French beans, beans, three-quarters three-quarters blanched. blanched. Cream of celery celery soilp. soup. porAce POTAGE cRirrrE CRÈME DE DE cfLERr CÉLERI - Using Using 2 Cream bunches bunches of blanched and and shredded shredded celery, proceed proceed as as described the recipe recipe for Cream Cream of ofartichoke artichoke soup. soup. scribed in in the Cream Cream ofchicken of chicken soup. soup. porAGE POT AGE cRiME CRÈME DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE -- Put a plump, plump, tender tender chicken chicken into a saucepan saucepan with 88 dl. (l+ (11 pints, lf; 1* pints) simple white white consomni. consommé. Season, Season, add 2leeks 2 leeks and a stalk pints) simple of of celery, celery, tied in in a bundle. Bring Bring to the the boil, boil, skim, cover, coyer, and simmer sim mer gently. When When the chicken is cooked, drain and bone bone it. Keep the breast breast fillets for garnishing garnishing and pound pound the rest of the flesh finely purée through a fine sieve. Mix finely in a mortar. Rub this pur6e with with 88 dl. (1+ (11 pints,'lf pints,î* pints) pints) btchamel.Heat béchamel. Beat to boiling boiling point, point, add add a few few tablespoons tablespoons of of the the consomm6 consommé in in which which the the chicken was cooked, cooked, taste for seasoning. seasoning. Strain Strain through a sieve and and di. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant lt cup) fresh cream. cream. add I1 dl. Dice Dice the the breast breast fillets and and add to to the the soup. soup. Cream Cream of of chicory chicory (U.S. (U.S. endive) endive) soup. soup. porAGE POTAGE cniMe CRÈME D'ENDIvES D'ENDIVES -- Slice the chicory and simmer it in butter in a off as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Crearn Cream of covered pan. pan. Finish Finish offas covered endive soup soup (see (see below). below). endive Cream Cre am of of Chinese Chinese artichoke, artichoke, Occa Occa and and Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke. artichoke. porAGE POTAGE cRirm CRÈME DE DE cRosNEs, CROSNES, oxALIs, OXALlS, ToprNAMBouns TOPINAMBOURS -- Like Cream of ofartichoke artichoke soup, soup, replacing replacing the the latter latter by by 400 400 g. (14 (14 oz.) oz.) Cream artichokes (or Occa, Occa, or Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke), artichoke), blanblanChinese artichokes Chinese ched ched and and cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Cream of of crayfish crayfisb soup soup -- Se See Cream Cream of of shrimp soup below. Cream soupbelow. Cream of of endive endive soup. soup. porAGE POTAGE cRir,rE CRÈME DE DE cHlconfr CHICORÉE -- Blanch, Blanch, Cream press and chop 500 500 g. (generous '1I lb.) tender tender endives, endives, and press and cook in in butter. butter. cook Add Add 88 dl. (l+ (11 pints, pints, lf, 1* pints) pints) b1chamel béchamel sauce. sauce. Finish Finish offas offas described described in in the the recipe recipe for Cream Cream of ofartichoke artichoke soup. soup. Cream Cream ofleek of leek soup. porAcn POTAGE cntw CRÈME DE DE porREAUx POIREAUX -- Shred Shred and blanch blanch 500 500 g. (generous I1 lb.) lb.) leeks leeks and cook them them in butter in in a covered covered pan. pan. butter Finish Finish offas off as described described in in the the recipe recipe for Cream Cream of ofartichoke artichoke soup. soup. Cream of of lettuce lettuce soup. soup. porAcp POTAGE cnirvn CRÈME DE DE LAtTuEs LAITUES -- Using Using Cream lettuce, proceed proceed as as in in the the recipe recipe for Cream Cream ofendive of endive soup. soup. lettuce,

garnished with duchess duchess potatoes Cream ofleek soup, garnished

Cream of lobster soup soup -- See Cream Creàm of of shrimp shrimp soup soup below. Cream of lobster Cream of marrow soup. porAcp POTAGE cntw CRÈME DE DE couRGETTES COURGETTES Like Cream of of artichoke artichoke soup,replacing soup, replacing the artichokes by by 400 g. (14 oz.) marrow, marrow, blanched blanched and cooked in butter. butter. Cream of of mushroom mushroom soup. porAcn POTAGE cnBrun CRÈME DE cHAMprcNoNs CHAMPIGNONS Cream soup is principally made made from cultivated cultivated mushrooms -- This soup or morels. morels. or the mushrooms, cook cook them them in butter butter in a covered covered pan Slice the Slice proceed as described described in the recipe for Cream ofartichoke of artichoke and proceed soup. soup.

Cream of ofnettle soup. poucr POTAGE cnitlm CRÈME D'oRrIES D'ORTIES -- As Cream of Cream nettle soup. spinach soup soup (see (see below), below), replacing replacing the spinach by by young spinach nettles. nettles. Cream of of oatmeal oatmeal soup. soup. porAGE POTAGE cRtMn CRÈME o'^q,voINr D'AVOINE -- Pour Pour 150 Cream g. (5 oz.,l| oz., li cups) oatmeal flour, diluted diJuted with 2 dl. dl. ($ (1 pint, co Id milk, into 8 dl. dl. (l+ (11 pints, pints, lf; 1ï pints) boiling scant cup) cold milk. milk. Stir until smooth, bring bring to the the boil and simmer sim mer very very gently Stir for for l| 1t hours. hours. Rub Rub through a a sieve. sieve. Re-heat. Add Add I1 dl. dl. (6 scant i1- cup) cup) cream. cream. tablespoons, scant The milk milk can can be be replaced replaced by by consomm6. consommé. Cream of of rice rice soup soup I. I. porAGE POTAGE cntun CRÈME DE DE Rrz RIZ -- Cook Cook 200 g. (7 Cream oz., I1 cup) blanched and drained rice rice very gently in a pint of oz., white consomm6. consommé, with a little little butter. butter, for 45 minutes. minutes. white R ub through through a sieve sieve and finish offas off as described described in in the the recipe recipe Rub for Cream Cream of of barley barley soup. soup. n. porAGE POT AGE cniul CRÈME DE Rrz RIZ - Using U sing rice rice Cream of rice soup II. recipe for Cream Cream of ofoatmeal proceed as described described in the recipe flour, proceed oatmeal soup. soup. Cream of of shrimp shrimp (or other other shellfish sbeUfish soup). porAGE POT AGE cRiME CRÈME DE Cream CREVETTES ET AUTRES AUTRES cRUsrAcEs CRUSTACÉS - Fry Fry I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, cREvETTES scant ft cup) mirepoix mirepoix in butter, add add 350 g. (12 oz., 2 cups) cups) scant uncooked shrimps, and saut6 sauté together. Season Season with salt and uncooked pepper, moisten with with j1- dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant ft cup) white white tablespoon of of brandy brandy which which has been set alight. alight. wine and a tablespoon Cook for for 55 minutes. Cook Keep aside a dozen shrimps' shrimps' tails for the garnish. Pound Keep the shrimps shrimps in in a a mortar. mortar. Add Add 8 dl. dl. (11 (11 pints, pints, lf 1* pints) pints) the béchamel. Rub Rub through through a sieve. sieve. bichamel. Beat, dilute, if necessary, with a few few tablespoons white white Heat, consommé, taste taste for seasoning, seasoning, and finish off off with 2 dl. (+ (1 consomm6, pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) fresh fresh cream. cream. ofspinach POTAGE cnirc CRÈME o'fpINlRos D'ÉPINARDS -- Cook Cream of spinach soup. porAcr 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) blanched blanched and and pressed pressed spinach in in 500 butter. Finish Finish offwith offwith btchamel béchamel as as described described in in the recipe recipe for butter. Cream of ofendive endive soup. soup. Cream 874

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS SOUPS g, (2 cARorrEs, prrn cn6cy -- Cook 3 to 4 sliced carrots in 60 g. CAROTTES, DITE cRÉCY (3 pan. Add or., *i cup) cup) butter in in aa covered covered pan. Add 22 tablespoons (3 oz., ofsalt tablespoons) chopped onions, a pinch of salt and a pinch of parboil them sugar. Ifusing old vegetables, parboil them before cooking in sugar.lfusing before cooking butter. (scant quart, quite soft When the carrots are quite soft add add 1I litre carrots are When litre (scant generous quart) consommé g: (4 oz., consomm6 and 100 g. o2.,88 tablespoons) generous Simmer gently, covered. rice. Simmer Rub through a sieve, sieve, dilute with aa few tablespoons stock, g. (2 heat, add add 60 oz., ] cup) cup) butter and and Serve serve with with small 60 g. heat, Q oz., crofitons fried in butter. croûtons porAGE Pur6e of called Crécy. Crecy. POT cnfcv -- Cook Cook ofcarrot Purée carrot soup II, caUed AGE cRÉCY preceding recipe, replacing the the carrots as described described in the preceding rice by amount of stale, an equivalent equivalent amount stale, crustless crustless bread, bread, or by an rice offas oven. Finish off rusks dried in the oyen. as described above. porAGE PURÉE punfn DE pr Puree of Dubarry. POTAGE cauliflower soup, caUed called Dubarry. of cauliftower Purée cHou-FLEuR, DIT Drr DUBARRY DUBARRv -- Cook togetber together 400 g. (14 oz.) of CHOU-FLEUR, g. (9 oz., and drained caulifiower cauliflower and oz.,lf blanched and It cups) and 250 g. (l pint, pint,Ztcups) of dl. (1 sliced potatoes, in 6 dl. 2tcups) milk with a pinch of salt. Dilute with with 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant through a sieve. Dilute Rub through and aa atp) butter and cup) milk, heat, heat, and and add add 60 60 g. oz' *f, cup) t* cup) Q oz., e. (2 cro0tons, fried chervil leaves. Serve with small croûtons, tablespoon of of chervilleaves. in butter. consomm6. The milk can be replaced by consommé. punfr DE porAGE PURÉE Pur6,e of celery soup. soulr. POTAGE os CÉLERI cfrsRl -- Slice 500 g. Purée (generous 1 I lb.) of (generous of the white part of celery stalks (or the same g, (2 oz., oz.,** cup) of blanched celeriac) and cook in 60 g. amount of ".rp) (scant quart, pan. Moisten in aa covered Moisten with with'l1 litre litre (scant butter in covered pan. g. (9 oz., oz.,'ll generous quart) of stock, add 250 g. 11 cups) potatoes simmer gently. cut in quarters and simmer with aa few few tableRub through aa sieve, sieve, dilute the the pur6e Rub purée. with g, (2 (2 oz., oz,li cup) spoons of consommé, consommd, heat, heat, and and blend in 60 g. spoons butter. porAcn PURÉE punEs DE Puree of DE MARRONS MARRoNS -- Shell Purée chestnut soup. soup. POTAGE ofcheshut g. (generous 1I lb.) chestnuts in 1I chestnuts and cook them in and peel 500 g. (scant quart, quart) white quart, generous quart) Add aa consomm6. Add white consommé. litre (scant (l oz., quarter of a head of in25 o2.,22 of celery cut up and cooked in quarter 25 g. (1 tablespoons) butter butter with a tablespoon chopped onion. tablespoons consommé or consomm6 or Rub through aa sieve, add a few tablespoons boiled milk, and finish offwith fresh butter. Serve with small croûtons, cro0tons, fried in butter. porlcr PURÉE pun6n DE Puree of la reine reine I. or soup ài la I. POTAGE Purée of chicken chicken soup vorerr,r,e À Bring to the boil a tender chicken chicken with 1I VOLAILLE A LA Ll REINE nsnlu -- Bring (scant quart, quart, generous quart) white consommé litre (scant consomm6 and and the the litre white part of leeks and a stalk of celery tied in aa bundle. (4 oz., g. (4 Skim, add 100 g. oz, generous t* cup) cup) blanched blanched and and Skim, add 100 drained rice, coYer, simmer gently. cover, and simmer it. Pound the the cooked, drain and bone it. When the chic ken is cooked, chicken part of the flesh finely in aa mortar with the the ri rice, of the fiesh ce , leaving aa part finely in pur6e with aa few tablespoons garnish. Dilute this purée of breast for garnish. tablespoons of was cooked the the consommé consomm6 in in which which the the chicken was cooked and and rub through a sieve, pressing it with aa wooden spoon. spoon. few dilute with aa few Put into a pan, heat to boiling boiling point, and and dilute Thicken with with 22 egg tablespoons white egg yolks white consommé. consomm6. Tbicken (6 tablespoons, cream. Blend diluted diluted with dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant tj cup) cup) cream. with 1I dl. (2 to g. (2 and to 33 oz:, oz:, 44 to to 66 tablespoons) tablespoons) and incorporate 60 to to 80 80 g. incorporate 60 butter. Dice the breast fillets and add add to the soup. (old recipe). PorAcE la reine reine II recipe). POTAGE Purée Puree of chicken soup ài la II (old chicken soup puntepe (} litre, scant 'Take aa chopine scant PURÉE DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE À A LA re REINE Rnnvr -- 'Take chopine (t bread pint, 2i of crustless bread consomm6, put into itit aa piece of 2f, cups) consommé, in aa finely in the size of it boil aa few times. Pound finely of an an egg and let it with 12 12 sweet sweet mortar the cooked on aa spit spit with the breast of chicken chicken cooked almonds, 33 bitter hard-boiled egg yolks. When almonds and and 66 hard-boiled bitter almonds the mixture well pounded, add add the consommé, consomm6, with mixture bas has been weil (3 dl., pint, 1* or l| cups) cream cream or the bread dl., t! pint, bread and and aa demi-setier demi-setier (3 keep good milk. through aa sieve, sieve, season season and and keep Rub the the sauce sauce through milk. Rub hot in bain-marie.' in aabain-marie.'

±

ofspinach Cream of spinach soup

lobster soup -- See Cream of Cream Cream of of shrimp shrimp soup. of spiny lobster porAGE CRÈME Cream of watercress soup. cRir,IE DE DE CRESSON cRrssoN -soup. POTAGE (generous 1 g. (generous I lb.) watercress watercress cooked in in butter, Using 500 g. endive soup. of endive proceed as for Cream asfor Creamof puRfEs - The various purée porAGEs PURÉES puree soups PUREE SOUPS. PURÉE SOUPS. POTAGES pasta products, products, rice, described below have pasta rice, tapioca, described can have below can perles, pearl barley, brunoise,julienne, chffinnade, etc., added brunoise, julienne, chiffonnade, to them. recipes given for vegetables and leguminous plants are The recipes intended for soups to be meat stock. These can be made soups to made with meat also be prepared as as Lenten fare fare by replacing stock by water and using using milk for the final liaison. Lean bacon, indicated as an ingredient ingredient for sorne some of of these soups, will be omitted omitted from a Lenten soup. helpings. The recipes have been worked out to serve 5 or 6 helpings. porAGE PURÉE puRfE DE Purée bean soup. POTAGE Puree of DE FÈVES FivEs -- Cook 500 g. ofbean (2 oz., (generous I lb.) g. (2 in 50 (generous·1 fresh shelled shelled beans in 50 g. oz., !* cup) c,rp) lb.) fresh pinch of salt dl. (6 butter, with with aa sprig sprig of savory, aa pinch salt and and 1I dl. pan covered. tablespoons, scant the pan water, keeping the scant tI cup) cup) water, Rub through aa fine and finish finish off as as described in the fine sieve sieve and described in recipe for Purée Purie of of celery soup (see below). porAcE Purée red haricot bean Puree of la Condé. Cond6. POTAGE ofred bean soup, soup, called ài la punfn DE PURÉE DE HARICOTS HARrcors ROUGES, Roucns, DIT nrr ÀA LA u CONDÉ couuf -- Pick over and and g. (12 oz., wash 350 g. oz., 1lf~ cups) red haricot beans and put them (2f pints, Ji add 15 l5 into 1l|t litres (2~ 3f pints) cold water. Boil, skim, add g. (i oz., salt, aa medium-sized studded g. 2t teaspoons) oz.,2j teaspoons) salt, medium-sized onion studded g. (2 garni and with a clove, clove, a quartered carrot, a bouquet garni and 50 g. oz.) lean bacon, cut in large dice, blanched and ligbtly lightly fried. (+ pint, pint, f cup) Add Add 11 l+ dl. cup) boiling red wine wine and and leave, boiling red dl. (* uncovered, uncovered, to simmer simmer very gently. quite done When ove the drain them, remove them, rem When the the beans are quite done drain beans are pur6e back garnishing, and through a fine fine sieve. Put the purée and rub through into the pan, pour in the liquor, adding aa few tablespoons tablespoons of consommé in consomm6 ifnecessary. if necessary. Strain, bring to the boil, and blend in g. (2 oz., * 60 g. t cup) butter. Serve with small croûtons, cro0tons, fried in butter. The The bacon may be be omitted. omitted. In culinary practice this In old culinary game consommé soup was was made made with with game consomm6 and and was was sometimes garnished with with rice, rice, cooked in in consommé, consomm6, instead instead of croûcro0tons. Purée Puree of haricot bean bean soup, soup, caUed called Soissoonaise. Soissonnaise. of white white haricot porAGE PURÉE pun6n DE POTAGE DE HARICOTS HARrcors BLANCS, BLANcs, DITE DrrE SOISSONNAISE sotssoNNAIsE -Using white haricot beans, beans, proceed as as described in the recipe for Red haricot bean soup, soup, omitting omitting the red wine. Serve with small croûtons, cro0tons, fried in butter. porAGE PURÉE pun6e DE Purée Brussels sprouts soup. DE CHOUX Puree of soup. POTAGE cHoux DE ofBrussels BRUXELLES in BRUXELLEs -- Proceed using Brussels sprouts, sprouts, as as described in celery soup. the recipe for for Purée ofcelery Purte of porAcE PURÉE pun6e DE Purée Puree of on soup I, I, calJed called Crécy. Cr6cy. POTAGE of carrot carrot soup

ct

t

875

SOUPS AND BROTHS eI,fr.rors-Pick ALÉNOIS - Pick over over and wash 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.) oz.) garden garden cress, Cl'ess, chop chop itit and cook in in aa covered covered pan pan with with 50 g, g. (2 (2 oz., oz., f cup) cup) butter. butter. Moisten with with I1 litre litre (scant (seant quart, quart, generous generous quart) quart) strong strong cups) sliced stock, add 250 g. g. (9 (9 oz.,lj oz., l+cups) sliced potatoes, polatoes, and and simmer simmer gently. gently. Rub this puree purée through through aa sieve, and add aa little !ittle stock stock and and milk, milk, 33 tablespoons tablespoons (4 (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) cream cream and and aa piece piece of of fresh fresh butter. butter. Pour Pour into inlo a soup soup tureen lurecn and garnish garnish with with leaves leaves of of garden garden cress. cress, blanched blancbcd in in salted salted water water and and drained. drained. Soup puree purée with with crottons croûtons - See See Purte purée of of split split pea pea soup. soup. Soup puree purée Dubarry Dubllrry - See Purhe Purée of of cauliflower cm
This recipe recipe has has been been extracted from from a sixteenth-century sixteenth-œntury 'd la recipe recipe book. book. Soup Soup 'à la reine' reine' used used to 10 be be served served every every Thursday at the Court of the Valois. Thursday Valois. Queen Marguerite Marguerite de Valois, Valois, it is said, said, was very very fond of of it. il. were For aa long time afterwards afterwards soups called 'd 'à Ia la reine' were prepared from from partridges partridges or or pigeons. pigeons. These various various soups served poured were were sometimes sometimes served poured over over crusts crusts crumbled crumbled and

*

pulped in a plate. Puree Purée of chicory chieory soup. PorAcE POTAGE punfr PURÉE D'ENDIVEs D'ENDIVES - Cook Cook aa medium-size (400 (400 9., g., 14 14 oz.) oz.) head head of of coarsely coarseJy shredded shredded chicory chicory (U.S. (U .S. endive) slowly in in butter butter in in a a covered covered pan. pan. Season Season with salt and a little little sugar. sugar. Add 250 250 g. (9 oz.,lj oz., 1+ cups) cups) sliced sliœd potatoes. potatoes. Moisten Moisten with with 66 consomm6. Simmer, covered, dl. (1 pint, pint, 2j 2+ cups) consommé. covered, for for 30 30 dl. (l minutes. sieve and finish off offas Rub Ru b through through a sieve as described described in the recipe ofcelery for Purte Purée of celery soup. ofredharicot Souppuree Soup purée Cond6 Condé --See See Purie Purée of red haricol bean soup. soup. of lentil See Purte Soup puree Soup purée Conti - Sec Purée of lent il soup soup below. coNn A Soup puree purée Conti ài la brunoise. brunoise. porAGE POT AGE punfn PURÉE CONTI À ra LA (5 or 6 of an BRUNoTSE BRUNOISE -- Add 4 or or 5 tablespoons tab]espoons (5 6 tablespoons) tablespoons) of (2f pints, ordinary brunoise and chervil leaves to to 1lft litres (2S pints, 3f 3* pints) lentil soup pmts) Purte Purée of oflenlil soup (see (sec below). coNn A Soup pur6e purée Conti ài la julienne. julienne. PoTAGE POTAGE punfs PURÉE CONTI À Ll LA brunoiseby JULIENNE - As above, replacing the brunoise JULlE1'.'NEby aiulienne. ajutienne. cRABEsPur6e Purée ofcrabsoup. of crab soup. poracn POTAGE punfE PURÉE DE CR AllES - Like Li ke Purbe Purée of of crayfish soup, crayfish soup, replacing replacing the crayfish by an equivalent quantity quantity ofcrab. of crab. or crayfish bisque. PoTAGE Pur6e Purée of crayfish soup or POTAGE punfE, PURÉE, (4 OZ., g: (4 oz.,l~ Ingredients. l8 BIseuE p'EcRtv$sns 18 crayfish, 100 ]00 g. BISQUE D'ÉCRlVISSES -- lngredienls. (6 dl. (6 pint, seant cup) mirepoix, mirepoix, Il dl. scant cup) dl. ({ cup) butter, cup) butter, 22 dl. (1 l'lint, (l+t tablespoons, 2 dl. dl. (1 scant t* cup) white wine, 2 tablespoons, seant tablespoons, 22 j cup) (scant (3 oz., rice, I1 litre oz., 1 cup) rice, tablespoons) brandy, brandy, 80 g. g. (3 litre (seant (} pint, quart) white consommé, consomm6, lj quart, generous quart) 1+ dl. (t pint, l3 cup) ".rp) leaf, cream, salt, pepper, fresh cream, fresh pepper, cayenne pepper, pepper, thyme, bay leaf, parsley. parsley. For the Ihe garnish. garnish. of the crayfish and add to wash 12 of to the the Method. Dress and wash until soft. mirepoix, previously mirepoix, previously cooked in butter until ground freshly ground salt and and aa little of salt with aa pinch Season with pinch of lillie fresh]y fragment of thyme and aa fragment pepper, add 2 sprigs parsley, parsley, a sprig ofthyme until the shell on strong heat until leaf. Sauté Saute the crayfish on ofaa bay leaf. of turns red. and the set alight, alight, and which has with brandy Moisten with brandy which has been becn set pint, 1 add'lj Boil down by two-thirds, add white wine. BOlI 1t dl. (| pint, 3 cup) "np) minutes. l0 minutes. for 10 consomm6 and cook for consommé for shells for keeping the tails and shells Shell the remaining crayfish, keeping in aa mortar, mortar, adding the the sbells shells finely in the garnish. Pound the the (* pint, pint, seant in 44 dl. dl. (i scant 22 cups) separately in rice, cooked cooked separate1y rice, cooking the the crayfish. from cookjng liquor left left [rom and the consomm6, and consommé, the liquor pressing it wooden pur6e tluough it with with aa wood sieve, pressing Rub this through aa sieve, Rub tbis purée en rest of consommE, Dilute with the rcst of the consommé, saucepan. Dilutc spoon into a sauœpan. spoon bain-marie. seconds, strain, and keep hot in aa bain-marie. boil for aa few seconds, (3 oz., tiny g. (3 into tiny Add 80 g. o2.,6 Add 6 tablespoons) butter divided into if seasoning if Blend, correct correct seasoning pieces, and cream. B]end, fresh crcam. and the the fresh pieces, pepper. pinch of cayenne pepper. with aa small small pinch necessary, and flavour flavour with garnish WJth fish with the shells shells filled with fish Pour into aa soup tureen, garnish poached, and and the diced tails. forcemeat and poached, forcemeat replaced by fish stock stockorfumet. can be replaœd Consomm6 can Consommé or fume 1. Purbe of ofcarrot SouppureeCr6cy Soup purée Créey --See See Purée carroI soup. porAGE PURÉE pun6r cRÉCY perles. POTAGE lux cnfcv AUX pur6e Créey Cr6cy aux aux perles. Soup purée Soup pERLEs- 1+ pints) Purée (2f,pints, Purte of of carrots Crtcy 3f pints) carrots àitla lllitres PERLES litres (2~ pints, 3* la Crécy (*cup) to stock, added added to of perles,cooked tablespoons (t with 4 tablespoons cup) orperles, cooked in stock, it. porAGE PURÉE punEs cRÉCY AU RIZ RIz -cnfcv AU pur6e Crécy with rice. POTAGE Crecy wi!h Soup purée Soup (2f pints, 3* pints) Purée of carrOI carrot soup àitla Crtcywith 3f pints) Purie of 11lllitres litres (2i la Crécy with ($ cup) of it. to il. cooked in in stock, stock, added added ta of rice, cooked tablespoons (~cup) 4 tablespoons pun6n DE porAGE DE CR:fSSON cREssoN garden cress soup. POT cress soup. Prn€e of of garden Purée AGE PURÉE

(±

t

(*

±

*

8'16 876

SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS

(Robert Carrier) Carrier) added (Robert with harn ham added Saint-Germain, with pea soup, called Saint-Germain, Fresh pea soup, called Fresh

pot^q,ce punrn DE DE POMMES PoMMES Parmentier. POT Pur6e of soup Parmentier. Purée AGE PURÉE of potato soup part of leeks of 22 leeks the white white part Shred the - Shred g. (1 (1 oz., o2.,2 tablespoons) butter. in25 and 25 g. 2 tablespoons) cook lightly in and cook quarters. Moisten with I g. (1 (1 lb.) in quarters. Moisten with"1 cut in Add Add 500 lb.) potatoes cut 500 g. quart) white consommé. generous quart) Season. (scant quart, quart, generous consomm6. Season, litre litre (scant and and boil fast. boil fast. rub and rub potatoes are mash them them and are cooked, cooked, mash As As soon soon as as the the potatoes cream or cream few tablespoons consomm6 or through Add aa few tablespoons consommé through aa sieve. sieve. Add g. (2 and fresh butter butter and oz., 44 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh and finish offwith 60 g. and finish offwith 60 Q oz'., aa tablespoon chervilleaves. leaves. tablespoon of ofchervil fried in in butter. butter. Serve cro0tons, fried Serve with with small small croûtons,

pun6B oE pl.r.Arss - Peel PoTAGE PURÉE potato SOUp. soup. POTAGE Pur6e of of sweet sweet potato Purée DE PATATES - Peel them potatoes and cook them and cook ( I lb. 6 g. (lIb. sweet potatoes 6 oz.) oz.) sweet quarter 600 600 g. and quarter and litre add tj litre and add sieve and Rub through through aa sieve white consommé. consomm6. Rub in white in stir, and and the boil, boil, stir, to the Bring to consomme. Bring (scant pint, pint,2t cups) consommé. (scant 2! cups) (2 oz., fresh butter. butter. g. (2 crrp) fresh oz., !i cup) 60 g. incorporating 60 finish off offby finish by incorporating in butter. butter. fried in cro0tons fried with small small croûtons Serve with Serve PoTAGE (based on stock). POTAGE meat stock). on meat pumpkin soup soup 1I (based Pur6e of of pumpkin Purée g. (generous (generous 1I puREr DE porIRoN AU cut 500 500 g. Peel and and cut AU GRAS cRAS -- Peel DE POTIRON PURÉE (2 oz., and 44 butter and oz, !o1".tp) pieces. Cook in (2 Cook in pumpkin into into pieces. lb.) pumpkin lb.) cup) butter pan' Season with aa Season with (1 cup) in aa covered covered pan. water in cup) water tablespoons (t tablespoons good pinch pinch of salt. of salt. good

peasoup, garnishedwilh withhacon bacon Purée Pur6eofsplit of splitpea soup, garnished

Parmentier soupParmentier Pur6eofpotato of potatosoup Purée

DE DE TERRE, TERRE, DIT IARMENTIER Drr PARMENTIER

877 877

SOUPS AND BROTHS SOUPS AND BROTHS When the pumpkin is quite soft, rub it through a fine sieve. _When the pumpkin is qwte soft, rub it through a fine sieve. Put the pur6e back into intothe pan, dilute the pan, diluteitit toto the ttredesired desired Put the purée back consistency with 6 to 8 dl. (l to l$ pints, 2| to 3j cups) consistency with 6 to 8 dl. (1 to 11 pints, 21- to 31- cups) consomm6, bring to the boil, and finish offwith 60 g. (2 o2.,f, consommé, bring to the boil, and finish offwith 60 g. (2 oz., i cup) fresh butter. cup) fresh butter. Serve with small crottons, fried in butter. Serve with small croûtons, fried in butter. Pur6€ of pumpkin soup II @enten). porAcE ptrnfr os Purée pumpkin soup II (Lenten). POTAGE PURÉE DE porrRoN of AU MATcRE - Cook the pumpkin as described in the POTIRON AU MAIGRE - Cook the pumpkin as described in the preceding recipe. preceding recipe. Dilute the pur6e with boiling boiling milk milk and and add add 33 or ot 44 Dilute the purée with tablespoons (4 or 5 tablespoons) castor sugar. Finish offwith tablespoons (4 or 5 tablespoons) castor sugar. Finish offwith butter. butter. Serve with small cro0tons, fried in butter. Serve with smaU croûtons, fried in butter. Puree of purslane soup. porAcn punfn DE pouRprER Purée of purslane soup. POTAGE PURÉE DE POURPIER Proceed as described in the recipe for pur6e ofgarden cress Proceed as described in the recipe for Purée of garden cress soup, replacing the cress by fresh purslane. soup, replacing the cress by fresh purslane. Soup puree i Ia reine See Purbe of chicken soup. Soup purée à la reine -- See Purée of chicken soup. Soup pur6e Saint-Germain See purte of fresh pea soup. Soup purée Saint-Germain -- See Purée offresh pea soup. Pur6€ of shrimp soup or shrimp bisque. porAGE punfs, Purée of shrimp soup or shrimp bisque. POT AGE PURÉE, BIseuE DE cREvErrEs- Like Purte ofcrayfish soup,replacing replacing BISQUE DE CREVETTES - Like Purée of crayfish soup, the crayfish by an equivalent quantity of shrimps. the crayfish by an equivalent quantity of shrimps. Soup puree soissonnaise -See purte ofwhite haricot bean Soup purée soissonnaise - See Purée of white haricot bean soup. soup. Pur6e ofspiny lobster soup or spiny lobster bisque. porAGE Purée of spiny lobster soup or spiny lobster bisque. POTAGE tuRfr, BrseuE DE LANcousre Like pur6e of crayfish crayfish soup, soup, PURÉE, BISQUE DE LANGOUSTE -- Like Purée of replacing the crayfish by an equivalent quantity of smill replacing the crayfish by an equivalent quantity of sm ail spiny lobsters. spiny lobsters.

oftomato soup Purée of tomato soup

Pur6e

Puree oftomato soup I. porAGE pun6r DE ToMATEs Cook Purée oftomato soup J. POTAGE PURÉE DE TOMATES -- Cook oz.,lcup) sliced onion butter in a covered pan. Add g, 19 50 g, Q (2 oz., 1- cup) sliced onion in in butter in a covered pan. Add 500 g. (generous I lb.) seeded and sliced tomatoei. Season 500 g. (generous"l lb.) seeded and sliced tomatoes. Season with salt and pepper and add one crushed clove ofgarlic and a with salt and pepper and add one crushed c10ve of garlic and a bouquet garni. bouquet garni. Cook gently for a few moments, stirring all the time. Add Cook gently for a few moments, stirring ail the time. Add 100 gr (4 oz., generous 4 cup) rice, moisten with,l litre (scant 100 g, (4 oz., generous i cup) rice, moisten with 1 litre (scant quart, generous quart) consomm6, stir, and simmer gently. quart, generous quart) consommé, stir, and simmer gently. Rub through a sieve, put back in the pan, dilute with a few Rub through a sieve, put back in the pan, dilute with a few tablespoons consomm6, heat, and incorporate 60 g, (2 oz., tablespoons consommé, heat, and incorporate 60 g; (2 oz., f, i cup) butter. Add2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) rice cooked in cup) butter. Add 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) rice cooked in consomm6 orwater. consommé or water. Puree of tomato soup II. porAGE punfr DE ToMATES Saut6 -

Purée oftomato soup n.

POTAGE PURÉE DE TOMATES -

Sauté

the onion in butter until soft, then fry the tomatoes in the the onion in butter until soft, then fry the tomatoes in the same pan for a few moments. Sprinkle with 2 tablespoons (3

same pan for a few moments. SprinkJe with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour. Moisten with consomm6, stir, and season. tablespoons) flour. Moisten with consommé, stir, and season. Garnish and finish offas described above. Garnish and finish off as described above. Puree of tumip soup, called i la Freneuse. porAGE punfn ps

Purée ofturnip soup, caUed à la Freneuse. POTAGE PURÉE DE I lb.) - Cook Cook 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous"l lb.) sliced and blanched turnips gently in butter in a covered pan. sliced and blanched turnips gently in butter in a covered pan. Moisten with 2 dl. (} pint, scant cup) consomm6 and cook Moisten with 2 dl. (1 pint, scant cup) consommé and cook until three-quarters done. until three-quarters done. Add 250 g. (9 o2.,1] cups) sliced potatoes, moisten with 5 250 g. (9 oz., 11- cups) sliced potatoes, moisten witb 5 (scant dl. Add pint, 2t cups) consommé and and finish finish cooking cooking on on dl. (scant pint, 2i cups) consomm6 brisk heat. brisk heat. NAVETS, orr A r,c, FRENEUsE NA VETS, DIT À LA FRENEUSE -

878 878

Rub through aasieve sieveand andfinish finishoff offas describedininthe therecipe recipe b through as described - Ru for Purte of ofcelery celerysoup. soup. for Purée porAcEs VELOUTÉS VELOUTE SOUPS. SOUPS. POTAGES vnrourns - - These These soups soupsare are VELOUTÉ composed of of aa Velouté Veloutd sauce (seeSAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), based based on on composed vegetable, meat, meat, fish fishor orshellfish, shellfish, cooked cookedinin velouté, velout,!,or, or, ininthe the vegetable, caseof ofshelIfish, just before shellfish, added added to to the the velouté veloutt just before rubbing rubbing itit case through aasieve. sieve.These These soups soups are are thickened thickened with with aaliaison liaison of of through yolks, cream egg yolks, cream and butter. and butter. egg Veloutds can can be beserved ser{'edwith with aU garnishes indicated all the the garnishes indicated for for Veloutés cream and pur6e soups and purée soups such such as pearl barley, as pearl printanibre, barley, printanière, cream asparagus tips, tips, qquenelles, royale,tapioca. garnishes are These garnishes are asparagus ueneUes, royale, tapioca. These added to to the the soup soup after after itit has has been put through been put through aa sieve sieve and and added thickened. thickened. The recipes recipes which which follow follow have have been been worked worked out out to to serve serve The from four four to persons. to six six persons. from For vegetable vegetable veloutés. veloutts. Prepare Prepare aa velouté veloutt using g. (3 (3 oz., using 80 80 g. oz' i/ For cup) white (1+ pints, white roux roux and pints, li and 88 dl. dl. (11 pints) simple lf, pints) simple white white or or cup) chicken consommé consommE or or white white stock. stock. chicken Add the the vegetable vegetable indicated indicated for for this this velouté, velout6, having having first first Add blanched it, it, if ifnecessary, and cooked cooked itit in in butter. butter. blanched necessary, and gently until Simmer gently until the the vegetable vegetable is is cooked. cooked. Rub Rub through through aa Simmer pressing itit through sieve, pressing through with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Dilute Dilute the the sieve, soup with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons white white consommé. consomm6. Heat Heat to to soup point. Remove boiling point. Remove from from heat heat and and thicken with aa liaison of of boiling yolks and egg yolks (6 tablespoons, and 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, scant scant 1-I cup) cream. cream. Blend Blend 33 egg in from from 80 (3 to g. (3 80 to to 100 100 g. to 44 OZ., oz., 66 to to 88 tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh in butter. butter. For meat, poultry or game velouté. meat, poultry or game veloutt. Prepare Prepare the the velouté veloutb as For described above. above. described Put the the meat, meat, fowl game into fowl or or game into it. it. The meat meat should be Put boned and tied tied with string, the fowl fowl or game trussed as for for boned and with aa string, an entrée. entr6e. Simmer Simmer gently basic ingredients ingredients are an gently until until the the basic cooked. cooked. Drain, necessary, and pound Drain, bone, bone, ififnecessary, pound in a mortar, mortar, keeping keeping a small soup. Dilute part as as a a garnish garnish for for the the soup. Dilute with with white white smaU part consomm6 consommé and and finish finish offas offas described described in the the preceding preceding recipe. For For fish fish velout2. velouté. Using Using boned boned fish, proceed proceed as described described in the the recipe recipe above above for for meat, meat, poultry poultry or or game game veloutt, velouté, using Lenten the veloutt, Lenten or or fish fish stock stock for for making making the velouté, or or meat meat or chicken chicken stock. stock. For For shellfish shellfish velout2. velouté. Cook Cook the the shellfish sheUfish indicated indicated with with aa mirepoix, mirepoix, then then pound pound itit in in aa mortar mortar with with the the liquor liquor in in which which itit was cooked. Add Add itit to to aa veloutd velouté based based on on meat meat or or fish fish stock. stock. was cooked. Rub Rub through through aa sieve sieve and and finish finish offas offas described described above. above. Compound Compound butter, butter, flavoured flavoured with with the the appropriate appropriate shellshellfish, fish, is is usually usually added added to to shellfish shellfish veloutb velouté soups. soups. Artichoke Artichoke velout6 velouté soup. soup. porAGE POTAGE vELourE VELOUTÉ D'aRTrcHAUTs D'ARTICHAUTS -Prepare Prepare 8 8 dl. dl. (l* (11 pints, pints, lf, li pints) pints) velourl velouté based based on on white white consomm6. consommé. Blanch Blanch and and slice slice 88 artichoke artichoke hearts hearts and and simmer simmer lightly lightly in in butter butter in in aa covered covered pan. pan. Cook Cook inthe in the veloutt. velouté. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Dilute Dilute with with white white consomm6. consommé. Heat, Heat, thicken thicken with with aa liaison liaison of of33 egg egg yolks yolks and'l and 1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, ta blespoons, scant scantf1-cup) cup) cream. cream. Incorporate Incorporate 80 80to to 100 100 g. g. (3 (3 to to 44 oz.-, OZ., 66to to 88 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with artichoke artichoke hearts hearts cooked cooked in in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon and leaves. and diced, diced, and and chervil cbervilleaves. Asparagus Asparagus velout6 velouté soup. soup. porAcn POTAGE vErour6 VELOUTÉ D'AspERGEs D'ASPERGES -Using lb., 33cups) Usingthe thetips tipsofof450 450g.g. (1(lIb., cups)asparagus asparagusblanched blanchedand and cooked cookedininbutter butterininaacovered coveredpan, pan,proceed proceed as asdescribed describedininthe the recipe recipe for forArtichoke Artichokeveloutt veloutésoup. soup. This Thissoup soupcan canbe bemade madeofofwhite whiteor orgreen greenasparagus. asparagus. Celery Celery velout6 velouté soup. soup. ForAcE POTAGE vrrour6 VELOUTÉ DE DE cfLERr CÉLERI -- Like Like Artichoke Artichoke velouti velouté soap, soup, using using celery celery cooked cooked in in butter butter in in aa covered coveredpan. pan. Chicken Chicken velout6 velouté soup soup I.I. porAGE POT AGE vrrourf VELOUTÉ DE DE VoLATLLE VOLAILLE -Prepare 1{ pints, Prepare88dl. dl.( (11 pints, lflipints) pints)velout|.Add velouté. Addaamedium-sized, medium-sized, young tender tender young chicken. chicken. Simmer Simmer gently. gently. Drain Drain the the chicken, chicken,

AND BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS some mirepoix and and pounded in aa mortar, having kept sorne with a mirepoix garnish. shrimp tails for the garnish. shrimp recipe for Artichoke Artichoke velouté veloutt as described described in the recipe Finish off as instead of ordinary fresh fresh butter soup, bttt add Shrimp buller butter instead but add (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters). Compound bUllers). (see porAGE vrrourf DE or soup ài la normande. POT Shrimp veloqté velout6 soup la normande. Sbrimp AGE VELOUTÉ above. Garnish Garnish witb with 12 CREVETTES À rl NORMANDE A LA r.rOnM^r.rOn -- As As above. CREVETTES de-bearded oysters and 8 tails, 8 poached and de-bearded shelled shrimp taUs, small pike quenelles. porAGE VELOUTÉ vsrour6 D'ÉPERLANS o'EpBRleNs -I. POTAGE Smelt velouté velout6 soup soup I. Smelt fish the velouté veloutb as described in the basic recipe, using fish Prepare the consomm6 if if desired. consommé (9 oz.) g. (9 in butter with with aa tablespoon oz.) smelts smelts in Cook 250 250 g. Cook pound in in aa mortar, and to the the and add add to drain, pound chopped onion, onion, drain, ve louti before velouté before sieving. for Artichoke Artichoke described in the recipe for Strain and finish of as de~cribed veloutb soup. velouté poucn vELourE la dieppoise. II, ài la dieppoise. POT Smelt AGE VELOUTÉ Smelt velout6 soup soup Il, veloutt aa D'ÉPERLANS D'6pnnt.q,ns À A LA r,c, DlEPPOISE ornppolsr -- As above, adding to the velouté cooked in which mussels were cooked few few tablespoons of the liquor in poached mussels 12 with 12 12 poached mussels and and 12 and garnishing the the soup soup with and shelled shrimps' tails. porAGE VELOUTÉ III, ài l'indienne. I'indienne. POTAGE vnrour6 Smelt Smelt velouté velout6 soup soup ID, smelt fiUets n'fpEnr.aNs À fillets D'ÉPERLANS A L'INDIENNE r'lNomNNn -- As above. above. Sprinkle the smelt in butter with a tablespoon curry powder while cooking them in chopped onion. with chopped PoTAGE velout6 soup. soup. POT AGE loboter and Spiny lobster and Dublin Bay prawn velouté Like Shrimp velouté veloutt LANGoUsTINE -- Like verourt DE LANGousrE, LANGOUSTINE DE LANGOUSTE, Bay prawns cooked with aa soup, sozp, using spiny lobster or Dublin Bay mirepoix.

garnish, and pound bone bone it, keep a part part ofthe of the breast fillets fiUets for garnish, veloutt. the rest in the mortar. Add this chicken pur6e purée to the velouté. Rub through a sieve and finish off as described described in the recipe for Artichoke ArtÎchoke veloutt velouté soup. Garnish with diced breast fillets. porAGE voLATLLE vnr-our6 DE Crncken velout6 velouté soup II. POT AGE VELOUTÉ DE VOLAILLE Chicken Prepare the veloutt described in the velouté and cook the chicken as described preceding preceding recipe. g, (2 oz., ! When pounding add to it 60 g. pounding the chicken meat, add cup) I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant j~ cup) fresh double cup) butter butter and and 1 tablespoons, scant cream. Rub through a horse-hair sieve. sieve. Thicken Thicken the velouté, velouti, purée. Finish strain, and add the chicken pur6e. Finish offwith fresh butter and cream. cream. porAGE VELOUTÉ vst-ourf DE os Chic ken velouté l'écossaise. POTAGE Chicken soup ià I'ecossaise. velout6 soup VOLAILLE A À L'ricossnrsn L'ÉCOSSAISE - Add 4 tablespoons $ cup) of aa fine voLATLLE brunoise vegetables, softened in butter, butter, and chervilleaves, ofvegetables, chervil leaves, brunoise of soup. veloutt soup. to Chicken Chicken velouté porAcr VELOUTÉ Chicken velout6 velouté soup Nantua. POTAGE vrr-our6 DE la Nantua. or Chicken soup ài la VOLAILLE A À rl LA Nnirul NANTUA -- FJavour veloutt soup with voLAILLE Flavour Chicken with Chicken velouté crayfish butter. Garnish with shelled crayfish tails. porAGE velouté soup à AGE VELOUTÉ vnrourf DE or Chicken velout6 i la portugaise. POT poRrucArsE -- Add to VOLAILLE A À r-^e. LA PORTUGAISE to Chicken velout| soup soup 4 voLATLLE Chicken velouté (* cup) pressed out, tablespoons (t out, eut cut into cup) tomatoes, peeled, pressed small pieces and cooked in butter in a covered pan. porAGE velouté soup AGE VELOUTÉ vpLourf DE VOLAILLE voLAILLE soup sultane. POT Chicken velout6 SULTANE butter and garnish suLrANE -- Flavour Flavour the soup with pistachio butter (see with forcemeat (see quenelles made with small small quenelles made of of Chicken Chicken forcemeat FORCEMEA T). FORCEMEAT). porAcn VELOUTÉ Crayfish velouté vrrourf D'ÉCREVISSES o'Ecnnvrssns -- Like velout6 soup. POTAGE Shrimp velouté 12 craycrayveloutt soup soupbelow, replacing the shrimps by 12 fish, cooked with a mirepoix mirepoix and pounded in a mortar. Finish off with Crayfish buller offwith butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound bullers). butters). Endive (U.S. chicory), lettuce velouté Endive (V.S. or lettuce velout6 soup. chicory), spinach or porAGE VELOUTÉ POTAGE vnrour6 DE cHrcoRfE, D'ÉPINARDS, D'6pINARDS, DE DE LAITUE -- Like Artichoke velouté Artichoke velouti soup, using one or other ofthese vegetables. porAGE Frog la sicilienne. AGE VELOUTÉ vrrour6 DE oB Frog velouté sicilienne. POT velout6 soup soup ài la GRENOUILLES as described in in the cRENourLLEs À A LA rn SICILIENNE srcrLrENNE -- Proceed as recipe for Smelt velouté below, replacing the smelts with veloutt soup soupbelow, 48 frogs' legs cooked in butter. Finish off as described in in the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke velouté velouti H"'\1()l1rincr it with pistachio butter. soup,flavouring velouti soup below. Game velout6 soup -- See Partridge velouté porAGE VELOUTÉ Lobster velouté vsl-ourf DE DE HOMARD HoMARD -- Like velout6 soup. soup. POTAGE Shrimp velouté lobster cooked with a mirepoix. veloutt soup, usinglobster soup, using porecn Mushroom velouté AGE Pierre-le-grand. POT velout6 soup, also caUed called Pierre-le-grand. pTERRE-LE-cRAND - Like VELOUTÉ ArtivsrourE DE DE CHAMPIGNONS, cHAMprcNoNs, PIERRE-LE-GRAND - Like ArtÎchoke velouté pur6e of veloutt soup, of cultivated mushrooms. sorp, using purée porAGE VELOUTÉ Oyster vELourE AUX nux HUÎTRES nuirnrs -Oyster velouté soup. POTAGE velout6 soup. (l+t pints, pints, 1lf;i pints) 5sh Prepare in Prepare 88 dl. dl. (1 fish velouté, velout6, as as described in the basic recipe. Add to it the water of of 24 oysters. Thicken Thicken the soup as described in in the the recipe recipe for for Artichoke Artichoke soup as poached and velouté it with with poached and de-bearded de-bearded veloutt soup, soup, and and garnish it oysters. porAcn P
porAGES The recipes recipes for for these these SPECIAL SO UPS. POT AGES SPÉCIAUX SOUPS. spfcnux - The garnishes, veloutis withvarious with various garnishes, on veloutés soups, based on pur6es or on to 6 persons. have been worked out out to serve 44 to (2f pints, 3± pints) 3} pints) Prepare 1l{t litres (2i Potage ambassadeurs ambassadeurs -- Prepare cup) of ofaa Purée fresh pea soup, add tablespoons (1 to itit 44 tablespoons Pur4e of offresh add to $ cup) (3 in butter, chiffonnade butter, 22 tablespoons (3 cooked in chffinnade of of sorrel cooked and chervil leaves. in consommé, consomm6, and tablespoons) rice poached in of made by by adding adding aa chiffonnade chffinnade of This This soup also be be made soup can can also mixed mixed lettuce and and sorrel. sorrel. porAGE ANDALOUSE 1] litres litres (2f Add 11 ANDALousE -- Add Andalusian soup. POTAGE (scant tI pint, 2| dl. pints, 3f pints) pints) Purie of to 21 dl. (seant tomato soup soup to of IOmato pints, generous cup) tapioca cooked generous cooked in consommé. consomm6. (old redpe) half down consommé consomm6 by by half Potage 'Boil down recipe) --'Boil Potage Apicius (old (12 oz.) g. (12 in salted lasagne in salted boiling for oz.) lasagne for soup. Blanch Blanch 350 350 g. of the the boiledboiledwater. for 20 20 minutes minutes in half of water. Drain and simmer for and simmer j cup) pinch (4 oz., 1 g. (40z., down cup) best butter, aa pinch 125 g. down consommé, consomm6, with 125 grated nutmeg. ground pepper pepper and Boil down down nutmeg. Boil coarse and aa pinch grated coarse ground Put aa pur6e, add and mix. mix. Put the to purée, add to to the the lasagne lasagne and the breast of of aa fowl to layer of of with aa layer into aa soup soup tureen, tureen, folJow follow with layer of of the the lasagne lasagne into then add add combs and cooked in consommé, consomm6, then big cocks'combs and kidneys cooked in aa plateful of olives, sautéed saut6ed in look like like olives, cut to to look small truffles, truffies, cut of small jelly. Sprinkle with Parmesan Parmesan butter Sprinkle with butter witb with aa little little chicken chicken jelly. in various elements cheese. superimpose these these various elements in cheese. Continue Continue to to superimpose from successive over from Pour over the consommé consomm6 left left over over the successive layers. Pour cooking and serve.' serve.' cooking the the lasagne and (2f pints, pints, 3i Purte Potage Prepare 11 lf litres litres (2i 3f pints) Purée Potage d'Artois d'Artois -- Prepare ($ cup) of to itit 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t cup) of of aa white haricot add to of white haricot bean bean soup, soup, add fine soft, and and cooked in in butter butter until until soft, fine brunoise of vegetables vegetables cooked brunoise of chervilleaves. chervil leaves. Potage Bagration I (based on meat) - Prepare 8 dl. ( l$ pints, li in the basic recipe for these It pints) veloutt as as described in (generous 1I lb.) g. (generous soups. lb.) lean lean veal, cut in large soups. Add Add to to itit 500 500 g. gently. dice dice and fried in in butter. Simmer gently. lightly fried butter. Simmer and lightly Drain to the the in aa mortar mortar and and add add to Drain tbe veal. Pound Pound itit finely finely in the veal. point. velouté. sieve and and heat heat to to boiling point. veloutt. Rub Rub through through aa sieve yolks and Thicken and 1I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, Thicken with with aa liaison liaison of of 33 egg egg yolks seant and seasoning, if necessary, necessary, and Add more more seasoning, scant I cup) cup) cream. cream. Add

3*

±

879 879

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS SOUPS incorporate 80 g. (3 (3 to 80 to to 100 100 g. to44OZ., o2.,6 to 88tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. incorporate 6 to poached and Garnish with with poached grated and diced diced macaroni. macaroni. Serve Serve with with grated Garnish cheese. cheese. Potage Bagration (based on Bagration II II (based onfish) fish) -- Proceed Proceed as asdescribed described Potage preceding recipe, in the the preceding recipe, using using velouté velouty' based based on onfish fish stock stockand and in replacing the (9 oz.) the veal veal by 250 g.g. (9 by 250 oz.) fillets fillets of previously of sole, sole, previously replacing fried lightly lightly in in butter. butter. fried porAGE BALVET, Potage Balvet, Balvet, also also caUed called Jubilé. Jubil6. POTAGE BALVET, DIT Drr AUSSI Aussr Potage ruen6 - Prepare Prepare 11(2f, pints, pints, 3i l j litres litres (2i pints) Purée pea 3f pints) Purte offresh offresh pea JUBILÉsoup, dilute dllute with with aa little little consommé consomm6 and ({ and add add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (~ soup, cup) ofstockpot of stockpot vegetables. vegetables. cup) Potage bonne-femme bonne-femme 1I -- Shred g: (4 (4 oz., Shred finely finely 100 100 g. oz., 1I cup) cup) of of Potage part of the white white part leeks and of leeks and cook cook in in butter pan. butter in in aa covered covered pan. the Moisten with (2f; pints, with 11pints, 3i lj litres litres (2i pints) white 3f, pints) white consommé. consomm6. Moisten (9 oz., Add 250 250 g.g. (9 lj cups) potatoes. Season oz., 11cups) sliced sliced potatoes. Season and and Add gently. Add simmer gently. Add from from 60 (2 to 60 to to 80 80 g.g. (2 to 33 oz., oz., 44 to to 66 sirnmer tablespoons) butter butter and and sorne some chervil chervil Jeaves. leaves. Serve Serve with with long long tablespoons) French bread bread thinly thinly sliced sliced and dried in and dried in the the oyen. oven. French The consommé consomm6 can can be be replaced replaced by water or by water or milk. milk. The Potage bonne-femme bonne-femme II If -- Cook Cook the the leeks leeks in in butter in aa butter in Potage pan. Add covered pan. (l pint, pint,2! Add 66 dl. dl. (1 cups) of potato of aa very very thin thin potato covered 21- cups) pur6e and (scant pint, pint,Zf,cups) and 1-j 1.l. (scant (5 consomm6. Add g. (5 Add 150 150 g. purée 2i cups) consommé. oz., if, cup) potatoes and cup) sliced sliced potatoes and simmer gently. Add (+ simmer gently. Add 22 dl. di. H oz., pint, g. (2 scant cup) (2 oz., cup) cream, cream, 60 60 g. oz., i* cup) cup) butter butter and and sorne some pin t, scant chervil leaves. chervilleaves. Potage Camérani (old recipe) Cam6rani (old recipe) -- 'Soften 'Soften slowly slowly in in butter butter 22 dl. dl. Potage (} pint, scant cup) cup) of of aa fine fine brunoise brunoise ofvegetables, of vegetables, with with aa little little (~pint, turnip added added to it. it. Add Add 12 l2 chicken chicken livers, livers, trimmed trimmed and and cut cut in in turnip very smaU small dice. dice. Season Season and brown on on brisk heat. heat. very 'Separately, and as quickly quickly as as possible, poach poach 125 g: (4 (4 oz.) 125 g! oz.) 'Separately, macaroni in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dress dress with with butter butter and and macaroni season. season. 'To serve, serve, put the macaroni into aa silver silver dish, dish, buttered buttered and and 'To sprinkled with grated Parmesan with grated Parmesan cheese, cheese, alternating alternating with with sprinkled layers of of chopped chopped chicken Iivers livers and and sprinkling each each layer layers with Parmesan. minutes on on a low ftame.' flame.' with Parmesan. Heat for a few minutes Following ancient ancient usage, this is classified as aa soup. soup. FoUowing Potage cultivateur cultivateur-- Cut 2 or 3 smaU small carrots, a smaU small turnip, Potage (} cup) cup) of of the the white part of white part of leeks leeks and 66 tablespoons (1and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) onions, into large dice. Season with (2 oz., it of sugar. Cook in 50 g. (2 Season with salt and a pinch ofsugar. cup) butter (2f pints, Moisten with 11lj litres (2i butter in a covered covered pan. Moisten 3{ consomm6 and and cook for for 1! l} hours. hburs. About 25 3i pints) pints) white consommé minutes g. (5 (5 oz., 150 g. minutes before before serving, serving, add add 150 oz., if cup) cup) s!iced sliced potatoes and and75 75 g. (3 weil blanched blanched diced bacon. G oz.) well The The potatoes potatoes can be replaced by rice. Potage Potage Darblay Darblay --See See Potage Potage julienne julienne Darblay Darblay below. below. Potage ({ cup) of Potage Faubonne Faubonne -- Add 4 tablespoons tablespoons (~cup) of ajulienne a julienne of of vegetables, vegetables, cooked cooked gently gently in in butter, butter, and sorne chervil and some leaves, Jeaves, to lj 11- litres litres (2f (2i pints, 3f 3i pints) Purie Purée of of split split pea soup. This soup can also be made of white bean bean or any other vegetable vegetable pur6e, purée, or or a pheasant pheasant pur6e purée and aa garnish garnish composed composed of of pheasant pheasant fillets fillets and ajulienne a julienne of of trufles. truffies. Potage Potage fermidre fermière -- Shred finely 2 or 3 small small carrots, I1 small smaU turnip, turnip, 6 tablespoons tablespoons (| (1- cup) of the the white part of leeks, chopped, chopped, 4 tablespoons tablespoons (.| (t cup) onions onions and g. (3 oz, oz., lt li and 75 g. cups) cups) shredded shredded cabbage cabbage heart. Season, and simmer simmer slowly in 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz.,! cup) butter butter in aa covered covered pan. pan. f, cup) Moisten Moisten with with 88 dl. (l* (I~ pints, pints, lf, li pints) pints) water water in which which white white beans (1 pint, pint, 2] 21- cups) white white beans have have been been cooked, cooked, and 6 dl. (l consommE. consommé. Cook for for lf, li hours. hours. Add 11 dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant t1- cup) cup) cream, cream, 44 tablespoons tablespoons ($ (t cup) cup) cooked cooked white white beans and and some sorne chervil chervilleaves. leaves. This This soup soup can can also also be be prepared prepared as as a a Lenten Lenten dish dish by by omitting omitting the the consomm6 consommé and and using using the the water water left over from cooking cooking the the beans. beans. Potage Potage Fontanges Fontanges -- Prepare Prepare lj1t litres litres (2f, (2i pints, pints, 3f 3i pints) pints) Purbe Purée offresh offreshpea pea soup, soup, dilutewith dilute with aa little little consomm6 consommé and and add add

Potage Fontanges Fontanges Potage

(* cup) to itit 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t cup) of to of aa chiffonnade chffinnade of ofsorrel sonel cooked cookedinin butter until until soft, butter soft. and and sorne some chervil chervil Jeaves. leaves. This soup soup isis sometimes sometimes thickened This thickened with with aa liaison liaison of of egg egg yolks and garnished with and cream cream and and garnished yolks with croûtons. cro0tons. Potage gentilhomme gentilhomme -- Garnish (2f, pints, Potage Garnish 11pints, 3i l$ litres litres (2i pints) 3f pints) game soup Purte of ofgame pur6e with Purée lentil purée soup based based on on lentil ($ with 44 tablespoons tablespoons (~ game quenelles. quenelles. cup) small small game cup) Potage Germiny Potage (7 oz.) Germiny -- Moisten Moisten 200 200 g.g. (7 shredded oz.) sorrel sorrel shredded into aa chiffonnade chffinnade and into and softened softened in in butter, (2f butter, with with 11l| litres litres (2i pints, 3i pints) consommé. pints, 3f pints) consomm6. Thicken with Thicken with aa liaison liaison of8 yolks diluted of 8 to to 10 l0 egg egg yolks diluted with'l with I dl. dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant (6 scant 1-cup) fresh cream. cream. Add Add aa tablespoon tablespoon of of I cup) fresh chervil Jeaves. leaves. Serve chervil Serve with with long long French French bread, bread, thinly thinly sliced sliced and and dried dried in in the the oyen. oven. Potage Jubilé Potage Jubil6 -- Another Another name name for for Potage Potage Balvet. Balvet. julienne ài l'aUemande Potage julienne Potage I'allemande -- Prepare (scant quart, Prepare 1I litre quart, litre (scant generous quart) julienne. Thicken quart) Potage generous Potage julienne. Thicken with with aa liaison liaison of of 44 yolks diluted egg yolks egg t, scant diluted with pint, with22 dl. dl. (~ scant cup) cup) cream. Add 80 cream. Add 80 $ pin g. (3 (3 t0 to 100 to 100 g. to 44 oz., oz., 66 to to 88 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter and and sorne some chervil chervil Jeaves. leaves. julienne ài la Potage julienne la cévenole (scant quart, c6venole -- Prepare Prepare 1I litre quart, litre (scant generous quart) generous quart) of of aa light light Purée Purte of of chestnut chestnut soup. soup. Add Add 1-f litre litre (scant pint, julienne, cooked pint, 2i (scant 2f, cups) cups) of of aa julienne, in butter cooked in butter and and consommé. consomm6. Boil for for 55 minutes. (2 oz., minutes. Blend g. (2 Blend in in 60 60 g. oz., i* cup) cup) butter butter and sprinkle sprinkle with with aa tablespoon tablespoon of of chervil chervil Jeaves. leaves. Potage Potage julienne Darblay Darblay -- Prepare Prepare 11(2f pints, pints, 3! lj litres litres (2i 3f pints) Purée Purte ofpotato of potato soup, dilute dilute with with aa !ittle little consommé, consomm6, add add 4 tablespoons ($ cup) of tablespoons (~cup) a julienne ofvegetables of ajulienne of vegetables !ightly lightly cooked cooked in butter. Cook together, simmering gently for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Thicken Thicken with aa liaison of 3 egg yolks diluted (6 egg yolks diluted with with 1I dl. dl. (6 j cup) fresh cream. Incorporate tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant 1g. Incorporate 60 60 to 80 80 g. (2 to 3 oz., 4 to 66 tablespoons) (2to oz'.,4to tablespoons) butter and and add add chervil Jeaves. leaves. Potage LambalJe-Add 77 dl. (Ii pints, 11pints) rather thick PotageLamballe-Add (lfpints, llpints) ratherthick consommé to 88 dl. consomm6 with tapioca to (l+ pints, pints, li pints) Purée dl. (I~ lf, pints) Purte of of fresh pea soup. fresh Potage Longchamp Potage Longchamp -- Add 33 tablespoons (4 tablespoons) tablespoons (4 tablespoons) of of aa chffinnade chiffonnade of sorrel, lightly cooked in in butter, butter, 55 dl. dl. (scant pint, 2! 2i cups) cups) consommé consomm6 with with vermicelli vermicelli and and sorne some chervil chervil to I1 litre (scant quart, generous quart) Purée fresh leaves to Purte of offresh peasoup. pea soup. Like Potage Potage Fontanges. Fontanges. Decrease Potage Marigny -- Like Decrease the the proportion of chiffonnade of proportion of the chffinnade of sorrel and and add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) garden garden peas and and diced French beans cooked diced beans cooked in water. Oyster soup soup I. porAGE POTAGE lux AUX suirnns HUÎTRES - Prepare Oyster (2f lj litres litres (2i - Prepare 113i pints) velourd velouté based based on on fish fish consommé, as described pints, 3| consomm6, as described liaison of in the the basic basic recipe recipe for these these soups. in soups. Thicken Thicken with with aa liaison of 33 egg yolks yolks diluted with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant egg scant 1-+ cup) cup) and blend blend in in some sorne butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with ·12 oysters cream, and 12 ovsters

880

SOUPS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS yolks,

with I dl.

(6

Thicken Thicken with with aa liaison liaison of of 33 yolks, diluted diJuted wilh 1 dl. (6 gr (4 oz.' tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scantI1cup) cup)cream. cream. Incorporate'100 Incorporate 100 g. (4 oz.,t1 leaves. chervil cup) cup)butter butterand andadd addsome some chervilleaves. and dried in the Serve Servewith ;vithlong longFrench French bread, bread,thinly thinlysliced sliced and dried in the oven. oven. g. (E oz., cup) of thein butter?5 Potage PotageSolf6rino Sollérino-- Cook Cook in butter 7S g, (3 oz" f, cup) of the (3 of the red part of 5 g. white while pirt part of ofleeks leeks and and 775 g, (3 o2.,3 oz" ! ".rp) cup) of the red part of pan' carrots, carrots, both bath shredded, shredded, until until tender, tender, in in aacovered eovered pan, seeded tomatoes, a and (generous sliced g. I lb.) Add 500 Add 500 g, (generous 1 lb.) sliced and seeded tomatoes, a of garlic' Cook small small bouquet houquet garni garni and, and, ififliked, liked, half halfaa clove c10ve of garlic. Cook for'10 for JOminutes. minutes, quart, generous quart) white Moisten Moisten with with I1 litre litre (scant (seant quart, generous quart) white g. (9 oz.,l| cups) sliced potatoes. Season 250 add consomm6, consommé, add 250 g, (9 oz., 1t cups) sliced potatoes. Season and and simmer sirruner gently. gently, garlic. Drain the Remove Remove the the bouquet bouquet garni garni and and the the garlic, Drain the Add the liquor left vegetables vegeta bics and and rub rub them them through through aa sieve. sieve. Add the liquor left with a few tablespoons in in the the pan pan to to this this pur6e purée and and dilute diJute itit with a few tablespoons Add 80 to consomm6. consommé. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil and and skim skim the the surface. surface. Add 80 to 100 100 g. g. (3 (3 to to 44 o2.,6 oz" 6 to to 88 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. (3 small potato Garnish Garnish with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) small potato a vegetable baller and cooked in white with out scooped balls, balls, scooped out with a vegetable baller and cooked in white leaves. consomm6, consommé, and and chervil chervilleaves, con.(scant pint, 2f, cups) Potage Potage Velours Velours -- Add Add It litre litre (seant pint, cups) contapioca to I litre (lf somm6-substantially sommé substantially thickined thickened with with tapioca to 1 litre (l~ pints, generous quart) quart) Purte Purée Crtcy. Crécy. -pints, generous (2* pints, 3f pints) C-ream Potage Polllge Xavier Xavier -- Prepare Prepare lj H: litres litres (2* pints, 3* pints) Cream 3 egg yolks diluted it with Thicken rice ioup. of al rice soup. Thicken it with aa liaison liaison of of 3 egg yolks diluted Incorporate 80 with with I1 dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant seant ]i cup) cup) cream' cream, Incorporate 80 to (3 8 tablespoons) butter. g. 4 o2.,6 100 to to to 100 g. (3 to 4 oz., 6 to 8 tablespoons) butter. dice. cut in Serve with Serve with aa chicken chic ken royale, royale, eut in very very small small dice,

poached poached inintheir their strained strained liquor. liquor. Add Add blanched blanched and and drained drained leaves. chervil chervilleaves. The The liquor liquor drained drained out out of ofthe the oysters oysters should should be be added added to to thevelouti. veloUlé. the Spice Spicewith with aa pinch pinch of ofcayenne cayennepepper. pepper. Oyster Oystersoup soupiI. porAGE POTAGElux AUX Huirnns HuîTRES-- Make Make 80 80g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz.,fi cupiwhite cup) white roux roux and and dilute dilute itil with with 88 dl. dl. (l+ (11pints, pints, 1| I~pints) pints) of of the the liquid liq uid ininwhich which mussels musselswere werecooked, cooked, or orconcentrated concentratedfish fish stock, stock, mixed mixed with with the the liquor liquor of of 12 12 oysters' oysters. Mix Mix and and simmer simmer gently. gently. Thicken Thicken with with aa liaison liaison of of 33egg egg yolks yolks diluted diluted with with I1dl' dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tables po ons, scant scant +1cup) cup) cream. cream. Finish Finish off offas as described deseribed inin the the preceding preceding recipe. recipe, Potage Potage paysanne paysalUlc -- Shred Shred finely finely I1 medium-large medium-large carrot, carrot, I1 leeks, 25 small small turnip turnip,,50 50 g. g, (2 (2 oz., oz" I1cup) cup) the the white white part part of ofleeks, 25 e. g, ((l oz., oz" f cup) cup) chopped chopped onion, onion, 25 25 e. g, Q (1 oz.) oz,) celery celery and and 25 25 g. g. (1 (1 oz., oz .• cup) shredded shredded cabbage cabbage heart. heart. *t cup) sugar. Cook Season Season with with salt salt and and aa pinch pinch of ofsugar. Cook slowly slowly in in 50 50 g' g. (2 (2 oz.,* oz., cup) butter butter in in aa covered covered pan. pan. ".tp)with Moisten Moisten wilh' lj 11 litres litres (2f (2* pints, pints, 3| 3;i pints) pints) white white consomm6. consommé, serving, add Cook Cook for for lf Il houis. hours. About About 25 25 minutes minutes before beforeserving, add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., $ ~ cups) thinly thinly sliced sliced potatoes, potatoes, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 leaves. tablespoons) tablespoons) fresh fresh garden garden peas, peas, I1 tablespoon tablespoon chervil chervilleaves. Serve Serve with with long long French French bread, bread, thinly thinly sliced sliced and and dried dried in in the the oven. oven. This This soup soup can can be be prepared prepared as as aa Lenten Lenten dish dish by by replacing replacing the the conso-m6 consommé with water. In ln that that case, case, add add 60 60 g. g. (2 (2 oz', oz., f, cup) cup) butter buller before before serving. serving. See Potage Potage Pierre-le-Grand Pierre-Ie-Grand (Peter (Peter the the Great's Greal's soup) soup) -- See Mushroom veloutb velouté soup. soup, and also be can also This soup can be made by by mixing mixing mushroom mushroom and hazel-grouse hazel-grouse pur6es. purées. (3 OZ., g. (3 oz.,f 75 g. Cook 75 PoTAGE PoRTUcAIs Portuguesesoup. Portuguese soup. POTAGE PORTUGAIS -- Cook (4 oz,,} g. (4 diced, blanched cup) diced. oz., * cup) and 100 g, cup) chopped onion and bJanched pan. in a covered pan. lean bacon bacon in butter butter in small tomatoes' aa small I lb.) sliced, seeded tomatoes, g. (generous lib,) Add 500 g, minutes' l0 minutes, for 10 Saut6 for clove of garlic. Sauté half a cloveofgarlic. bouquet garni, and halfa rice. (4 oz., I cup) rice. 100 g: (40z.,-}cup) Add 100g: pints) white consomm6. (2f pints, pints, 2~ white consommé. 2f; pints) Moisten with 11+ litres (2* Moisten sieve, Rub through through aa sieve, gently for hour. Rub for an an hour, simmer and sim Season and Season mer gently with aa pur6e, dilute dilute with Heat the the purée, spoon. Heat wooden pressing with aa wood en spoon, (2 g. (2 to 80 80 g. in ilit 60 60 to incorporate in and incorporale consommd and iew tabJespoons tablespoons consommé few (* cup) tablespoons (1cuP) Add 44 tablespoons butter. Add tablespoons) butter. io 66 tablespoons) to 33 oz'" o2,.,44 to to in consommé, consomm6. rice, cooked cooked in rice, an as an by Carême Car6me as classified by This was was classified Potage Raphaël Rapha6l - This Potage Italian soup, soup. Italian cook aa and cook manner and in the the usual usual manner 'Prepare aa Pelile marmite in Petite marmite 'Prepare it. in il. small chic chicken small ken in breast, fillet of of breast, keep one one fJJle! 'Bone the completely, keep the chic chicken 'Bone ken completely, rub hot, and and rub still hOI, while still mortar while in aa morlar meat in pound the the meat the rest rest of of the pound pour tureen, pour soup tureen, pur6e in in aa soup the purée Collect the fine sieve, sieve. Colleet through aafine through keep and keep cover and consomm6, coyer of strained consommé, few tablespoons tablespoons ofslrained over aa few over by. by. marmite pints) of Petite marmite pints, 4-l: of the the Pelile 'Allowing 22 litres (3f pmts, 4f pints) litres (J!'Allowing strain. fat and andstrain. surplus fat persons,skim skim off off surplus for 10 l0 persons. consomm6 for consommé (4 oz" coarsec,rp) coarseoz',3 100 g,g. (4 into ilit 100 Pour into boil. Pour Bring to to the the boil, Bring t cup) Add the the gently for 25 minutes. minutes. Add for 25 simmer gently ground semolina andsimmer semolina and ground with aa stirring with thesemolina, semolina, stirring little, to to the pur6e, little by lillle, little by chicken purée. chicken ones, ( or 10 medium-sized ones, l0 medium-sized cocks'combs Add 20 20smaIl small cocks' whisk. Add whisk. combs (or the asweIl wellasasthe court-bouillon, as lightcour/-bouillon, half), cooked cooked inin aaIight cut inin halC), eut fine into aa fine shredded into small truffles, truffies, shredded two small fillet and and two breast fillet breast j ulienne.' (PhiJéas (Phil6as Gilbert.) Gilbert.) julienne,' peasoup, soup, Purteojfresh offresh pea ofPurée madeof Soupmade PotageSaint-Cloud Saint-Cloud- -Soup Potage friedinin crottons, fried diced croûtons, withdiced sewedwith Saint-Germain, served calledSaint-Germain, called butter. buller. pints)of light (2frpints, ofaalight pints,3* 3fpints) l| litres(2~ Prepare I~·litres Potagesanté sant6- -Prepare Potage (* cup)ofa of a tablespoons (-tcup) andadd addtotoilit44tablcspoons purbeParmenlier Parmentierand Souppurée Soup soft' untilsoft, butter until cookedininbuller lightlycooked sorrel,lightly ofsorrel, chiffonnade of chiffonnade

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souPEs - We SOUPS' SOUPES CLASSICAL AND CLASSICAL AND REGIONAL REGIONAL SOUPS. - We soups of regional and classical grouped various here have have grouped here various classical and regional soups of France. France, The bread should to them. added to Many ofthese of these have Many have bread bread added them. The bread should small innumerable small should have porous and and should and porous be be light light and have innumerable It should be the soup. with imbued easily to be as holes, so holes, so as to be easiJy imbued with the soup, It should be the on the depending on thickness, depending varying thickness, of varying in sliees slices of cut in stale, eut stale, in the the oven. dry itit in or dry Toast itit or the soup. soup. Toast nature of of the nature oven, Put into a saucepan (Provengal cookery) cookery) -- Put aigo-saou (Provençal Soupe aïgo-saou Soupe into a saucepan pieces, a medium-sized sliced into pieces, fish cut cut into white fish I kg. kg,(2tlb.) 1 (2t lb.) white a medium-sized sliced potatoes cut in quarters, 2 tomatoes, 44 potatoes chopped tomatoes', onion, 44 chopped onion'. eut in quarters, 2 garni, composed composed of parsley, garlic and bouquet garni, and aa houquet cloves of of garlic cloves of parsley, g. (4 teaspoons) 25 with Season leaf. bay and thyme and bay leaf. Season witb 25 g, celery, thyme celery, (4 teaspoons) (3j pints, 4| litres (~ pints, pepper. Add Add 22 litres pinch of good pinch of pepper. salt and and ai good salt 4! 18 to 20 minutes. Strain the from fast boil pints) and water pints) water and boil fast from 18 to 20 minutes, Strain the dash of with aa dash spinkled with of bread spinkled slices ofbread over slices tureen over ioup into into aa tureen soup of oil. oil. with serve potatoes on dish and on aa dish the potatoes and the fish and Arrange the the fish Arrange and serve with Pound a big prepared as follows. Pound as follows, which isis prepared or rouille, rouille, which ailoi or ai/ai a big pepper in a mortar. Add a piece of garlic with red pepper with aa red clove of of garlic c10ve in a mortar. Add a piece of soaked a walnut, size of part the (crumb, only) i.e. soft bread (crumb, i,e. soft parI only) the size of a walnut, soaked bread pressed out. out. and pressed and pour constantly, pour stirring constantly, and slirring little and by little little by whole, lillie Over the the whole, Over generous cup) olive oil. Add a few pint, (scant 2j dl. about I about dl. (scant -l: pint, generous Cllp) olive oil. Add a few stock. fish stock, tablespoonsfish tablespoons (Provengal cookery) - Colour m6nagire (Provençal aigo ài lala ménagère Soupe aïgo Soupe cookery) - Colom part of leeks inof 33 leeks the white white part and onion chopped lightly a lightly a chopped onion and the in crushed cloves of tomatoes, 44crushed chopped tomatoes, and chopped seeded and eOO22secded oit. Add cloves of oil, piece a piece of dried orange peel, a fennel, garlic, of a small garlie, a small piece of fennel, a piece of dried orange peel, a small pinch of saffron. potatoesand and aasm garni,4 sliced potatoes bouquet f?arni, bouquet 4 sliced ail pinch of saffron, pints) water. Season with 20 g. (3 water. Season pints,4-l: 4j pints) Add 22litres litres (3jpints, Add with 20 g. (3 for 1515 pepper. Boil fast for Boil fast pinchof of pepper. andaa pinch salt and teaspoons) salt teaspoons) minutes. minutes. per person. Drain the allowing1Iper soup,allowing thissoup, eggsininthis Poacheggs Poach person. Drain the potatoes, which have with the thepolaloes, dishwith onaadish themon arrangethem eggs,arrange eggs, which have with chopped sprinkled with andsprinkled saucepanand thesaucepan ofthe outof takenout beentaken been chopped parsley. parsley,

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SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS SOUPS Strain the the rest rest of of the the soup soup over overslices slices of of home-made home-made bread bread Strain arranged in in aa deep deep dish. dish. arranged Soupe aigo bouïdo (Provengal cookery) bouiido ài la la ménag~e m6nagire (Provençal cookery)Boil - Boil 2 litres (3j pints, pints, 41 pints) water 4j pints) water Înto into which put 15 which you have have put 15 crushed cloves of garni, aa spngof ofgarlic, bouquet garni, sage, 22 dl. dl. crushed garlic, aa bouquer ofsage, pint, seant g: (4leaspoons) (4 teaspoons) coarse scant cup) cup) olive olive oil, oil, 25 25 g: coarsesalt salt and and (1($ pint, pinch of ofpepper. aa pinch pepper. Pour lhis this soup soup into into aa tureen tureen over over slices slices of of bread sprinkled bread sprinkled Pour parsley. with chopped parsley. with Soupe aigo bouïdo poached eggs (Provençal bouirdo wÎth (Provengal cookery). with poached cookery). Soupe soupE AÏGO lico Bouïoo noui'oo AUX AUx ŒUFS curs pocnns -- Prepare Prepare the the soup soup as as SOUPE described in preceding recipe in the the preœding poach the recipe and and poach the eggs in it. eggs in it. described Arrange the the eggs eggs on on slices slices of of bread bread in in aa deep dish. Pour Pour the deep dish. the Arrange soup over pinch ofparsley. them and over them and add add aa pinch ofparsley. Soupe albigeoise This soup albigeoise -- This soup is is made made nol not onJy in the only in the AJbi Albi region but throughout throughout the part of the western western part ofFrance. France. region potte with It isis aa potée with rib rib of pork, sausage of beef. beef, salt salt pork, sausage and and confit confit Il goose) as d oie (preserved goose) as basic basic nutritive nutritive Ingredients, ingredients, with with the the d'oie following vegetables: vegetables: cabbage, carrots, carrots, turnips, turnips, leeks, leeks, potatoes, and onions, plenty of garlic. and plenty on ions, potatoes, potte albigeDise The pOlée albigeoise differs differs very very liule little from from other other French French The pottes, the the best of which is best ofwhich is the the Auvergne potie. potees, Arles soup. soup. SOUPE nnr6cnorsn -- Potte prepared in the same soupE ARJéGEOlSE Arles manner as as lhe the Auvergne pOlée, potte, with cabbage, carrots, manner potatoes, and turnips, onion, onion, leek leek and potatoes, pork, sometimes and salt salt pork, sometimes turnips, confit d'oie, d oie, and and aa succulent succulent/arci. There îs plenty of is al always of confit farci. There ways plemy garlic. garlic. pudding water Black pudding water SOlJp soup or (P6rigord cookery). or bOlJgras bougras (Périgord cookery). Black soupE À ,i. l'EAU L'nau DE DE BOUDlN, BouDrN, BOUGRAS BoucRAs ~- This This soup soup is is usually usually SOUPE prepared during during Shrovelide, Shrovetide, when pigs are when pigs are slaughtered slaughtered and prepared delicious black puddings are are made. made. delicious black puddings Bring the the water water in in which which black black puddings have been have becn poached to (4{ pints, 5} pints) For 2~ boil. For 2j litres litres (41 pints) of of tlUs this to the the boil. water, add add aa head head of green cabbage ofcurly cabbage eut pieces and cut into pieces and water, curly green blanched, quartered celery and and quartered blanched, carrots, carrots, turnips, turnips, leeks, teeks, celery onions. Simmcr Simmer gently for minutes. Add 400 g. (14 oz) 40 minutes. Add 400 (14 oz.) onions. for 40 potatoes in thick slices and and cook cook for another 35 minutes. minutes. potatoes cut eut in for another Fifteen serving, remove some of of the the Fifteen minutes minutes before before serving, remove sorne vegetables a perforated perforated spoon, spoon, slice slice thent, them, fry fry in in fat, fat, vegetables with with a sprinkle few tablespoons of of stock stock sprinkle with with flour, flour, moisten moislen with with aa few and add to to the the soup. soup. (This (This is is called cal/ed 'fricassie'in 'fricassée' P6rigord Périgord and and and add itit is added is added to to most most soups.) soups.) Pour slices of Pour the the boiling boiJing soup soup into into aa tureen tureen lined lined with with thin thin slices of home-made home-made bread. bread. Soupe la bonne bonne femme femme -- Cook Cook gently gently the the finely shredded shredded Soupe ià la white white part part of of 4leeks 4 leeks in in aa covered covered saucepan, saucepan, with with 40 g. g. (l| (11 oz., oz., 33 tablespoons) tab!espoons) butter, butter, without without allowing allowing the the leeks leeks to to colour. colour. When lit res (5| pints, 6j 6} pints) pints) When they they are are quite q uite soft, add add 33 litres ordinary consomm6 consommé and and bring to ta the the boil. Add 350 350 g, (12 (12 oz., oz., 22 cups) potatoes. sliced Bring cups) potatoes. Bring to 10 the the boil, boîl, season season and simmer simmer gently. genlly. When is ready, ready, rernove remove the the saucepan saucepan from from heat heat When the the soup soup is and 60 g, g. (2 (2 oz., oz., f~ cup) cup) butter butter and and I1tablespoon tablespoon ofchervil of chervil and add add 60 leaves. Ieaves. Soup with cabbage cabbage and and miques miques (P6rigord (Périgord cookery). cookery). soupE SOUPE Soup with AUX AU X CHOUX CHOUX ET ET AUx AUX mqUES MIQUES -- Put Put the 1he cabbages cabbages into into aa saucepan sa ucepan and of salt salt unsmoked unsmoked ham ham or or aa and cover coyer with with water. water. Add Add aa piece piece of salt salt chine chine of of pork, park, carrot, carrot, turnips, t urnips, rape, rape, onions onions studded studded with with cloves, garni and and the the usual usual seasoning. seasoning. cloves, celery, garlic,a bouquet garni Using Using maae (U.S. corn) flour, make make some sorne miques miques (q.v.). (q. v.). AA few of the the few minutes minutes before before serving serving the the soup, soup, take take some sorne of vegetables out with with aa perforated perforated spoon, spoon, fry fry them them in in fat, fat, vegetables out sprinkle few tablespoons tablespoons stock stock and and sprinkle with with flour, flour, moisten moisten with with aa few put put back back into into the the saucepan. saucepan. Serve bread and, Serve with with soup soup garnished garni shed with with thin thin slices sUces of ofbread and, on on aa separate or chine chine of of pork pork placed placed on on the the separale dish, dish, the the ham ham or cabbage and surrounded by themiques. the miques. cabbage and surrounded by Soupe SoupeAàlalafarine farine (Alsatian (AJsatian cookery) cookery)-- Pour Pour33tablespoons tables paons (4 (4

tablespoons) flour, flour, rnixed mixed wilh with cold cold consommé consomm6 or or water water until until lablespoons) quite smoolh, smooth, into into 11lf litres pints, Ji litres (2f, pints. pints) boiling 3f pints) boiling quile consomm6. Season Season with with salt, pepper and salt, pepper pinch of and aa pinch grated of grated consommé. nutmeg and and mix. mix weil. well. Boil Boil for for 55 minutes. minutes. Add"} Add I dl. dl. (6(6 nutmeg tablespoons, scant scant 1-i cup) (3 cup) fresh fresh cream creamand and 22 lablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons, tablespoons) butter. butter. tablespoons) porssoN Fish soup soup with with vermicelli vermicelli lii la la marseillaise. marseillaise. SOUPE soupn DE DE POISSON Fish AU VERM1CELlE vERMIcELLE ÀA LA LA MARSEl MARSETLLATsE good tablespoons Saut6 LLAISE -- Sa ute 22 good AU (3 tabldspoons) of of sliced sliced onion onion in in oil oil in in aa saucepan saucepan with aa (3 thick, fiat flat bottom. When When the the onion onion isis cooked, cooked, sprinkle sprinkle itit with with thick, tablespoon J'lour flour and fry for for aa moment, and fry moment, stirring stirring with with 11a aa tablespoon spoon. spoon. Cover wito with 22 litres pints, 41 pints) water. litres (3f pints, 4f pints) water. Add Add 500 500 g. Cover (generous 1I lb.) lb.) fish fish bones bones and and trimmings trimmings eut into very cut into very small pieces. Scason Season witn with salt pepper. Add salt and and peppcr. Add aa tablespoon tablespoon pounded parsley, parsley, aa fragment fragment of of bay bay leaf, leaf , aa spng sprig of of thyme, thyme, aa pounded little crushed garlic, 44 tablespoons crushed garlic, ($ cup) tablespoons (1 cup) toma tomato and aa to pur6e and Iiule good pinch pinch ofpowdered of powdered satfron. saffron. Cook Cook over over aa fairly high high heat heat for about about 20 20 minutes. minutes. Strain the the fish fish stock stock through through aa fine fine st strainer. Bring to to the the rainer. Bring Strain poach pour into boil and and pour into ilit 4 tablespoons ($ cup) tablespoons (1 cup) vennicelli. vermicelli. Poach bail for'100 minutes. minutes. Add half aa tablespoon choppe
pfnrcouhom P6rigord soupE Périgord. soup soup 'sobrol1ade'. SOUPE PElUGOU"RDINE 'sobronade'. 'SoBRoNADE''SOBRONADE' - This This dish dish constitutes consritules aa solid dish dish rather rather than than aCl. soup. soup. Soak Soak 750 750 g. g. (If, (l~ lb,, lb:, 4 cups) cups) white white beans beans in in cold water water and put put them them into into aa big big saucepan. saucepan. Cover Coyer with with cold cold water. warer. Add Add 500 500 g. lb.) fresh g. (generous (generous Ilib.) fresh pork, pork, fat fat and and lean, lean, and and 250 250 g. (9 (9 oz.,1 oz., 1 cup) ham ham cut cur into into small small pieces. Bring to lo the the boil boÎl and skim. skim. Add one one or or two two turnips cut in in thick slices (one-third (one-third of of these these previously previously fried, fried, fricasste fricassée with with chopped chopped fat fat bacon), bacon), 33 carrots carrots and and aa quartered quartered stalk stalk of ofcelery, celery, an an onion onion studded studded with with 22 cloves, cloyes, aa bouquet bouquet garni and chopped garlic garlic and parsley. parsley. Season Season with with salt salt and pepper and and cook, covered. covered. Boil g. (9 (9 oz.,l oz., j cups) cups) potatoes potatoes cut eut Boil for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add 250 250 g. in in thick thick slices. slices. Cook Cook on on low low heat heat for for l| hours. hours. Pour Pour this this soup soup 'into into aa tureen t ureen over over thin thin slices slices of ofstale stale bread, Tourah TOl1:ram perigourdin (P6rigord (Périgord cookery) - Make a fricaste by by frying frying 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz.,lf oz., li cups) cups) finely finely sliced onions onlons in in fat, fat,

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colouring colouring them them slightly slightly but but not not allowing allowing them them to to brown. brown. Sprinkle add 22 crushed crushed cloves claves Sprinkle with with aa good good tablespoon tablespoon flour, f1om, add of of garlic, moisten moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons boiling boiling water waler and and mix until until smooth. smooth. Cook Cook 22big, big, seeded seeded tomatoes tomatoes in in 22 litres litres (3j (3-!- pints, pints, 4j 41 pints) pints)

882 882

AND BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS (2! oz., g. (2t flour. Season Season with salt, o2.,31cup) fiour. cup) cup) butter and 65 g. for aa sugar. Boil for pepper and and cinnamon. Add aa teaspoon of sugar. few minutes. piping (} pint, 1CUP) lf dl. (i with'lt Bind with 3 cup) thick cream and pour piping hot over slices of of toast. porAcE DE (U.S.A. beet) I'allemande. POTAGE DE Beetroot (U.S.A. beet) soup soup à l'aUemande. Beetroot Peel aa raw raw beetroot, cut BETTERAVE r?e.rrruaNon -- Peel cut itit into A L'ALLEMANDE BETTERA VE À g, (2 (2 oz., casserole with 50 50 g. o2.,f, chunks, and bake in the oven in a casserole ± ofsalt. butter and a pinch of salt. cup) butter add one-third of one-third of of its volume of through a fine sieve and add Rub through potato purée, pur6e, prepared as described in the recipe for for Purée of Purte of potato potato patata soup. Place over moderate soup with with consommé. consomm6. Place over aa moderate the soup Dilute the (2| to g. (2t to 66 from 65 65 to to 80 80 g. to 33 oz., oz., 55 to heat, season, season, and and add add from heat, fried in in butter. cro0tons fried Serve with croûtons tablespoons) fresh butter. Serve tablespoons) porAcE DE r,c, RUSSE nusse DE BETTERAVE BETTERAvE ÀA LA Beetroot soup ài la russe. POTAGE Beetroot volume of its volume into julienne. Add one-third of Cut a raw beetroot into into julienne. of onion and celery, also cut into (2 oz., g. (2 with 50 oz., casserole with 50 g. Soften Soften the vegetables slowly in aa casserole When they they teaspoon sugar. sugar. When of salt and and aa teaspoon ±* cup) butter, aa pinch of (2f; pints, pints, 3± pints) chicken chicken litres (2~ 3| pints) cooked, add are are cooked, add 1t litres fat and and add add offsurplus Boil for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Skim Skim off consommé. surplus fat consomm6. Boil fried in butter. soup, with with croûtons cro0tons fried chervil leaves to the soup, chervilleaves porAGE BORTSCH' in Soften slowly slowly in Polish borsch. POTAGE BoRrscHpoloNars Polish POLONAIS-- Soften (7 g. (7 part of2 200 g. white part of Zleeks, a julienne of onion, the the white butter ajulienne leeks, 200 of 1I onion, (9 oz.) (U.S.A. g. (9 raw beetroot oz.) raw beetroot (U.S.A. oz.) 250 g. oz.) head head of cabbage, cabbage,250 (3f Cover with with 22 litres litres (3-t and aa parsnip. Cover beet), aa stalk stalk of of celery celery and 4j pints) white consomm6. white consommé. pints, 4t

water with salt and and pepper. Drain the the tomatoes, stock or water them and and add to the stock. Add the fricass0e fricassée to the mash them Thicken with a liaison liaison Simmer steadily for for 45 minutes. Thicken stock. Simmer of2 yolks diluted diluted with a few tablespoons tablespoons stock. stock. Pour into 2 egg egg yolks of soup tureen tureen over over thin slices slices of of home-made home-made bread. bread. a soup ail onion onion soups, the P6rigord Périgord tourain can be grafinhe. gratinée. Like all layer of Pour it into a deep dish over slices of bread, each layer which has has been been sprinkled sprinkled with with grated grated Gruydre Gruyère cheese. which Sprinkle the the surface surface with grated grated cheese and slowly brown brown the Sprinkle top in the the oven. top Put 1I D'ÉPEAUTRE -- Put soup (Provengal (Provençal cookery). SOUPE souPE D'fPn.nutRE Spelt soup kg. (2± lb.) shoulder or leg of of mutton into a saucepan. Cover kg.Qilb.) litres (5f (5± pints, 6t boil and with 3 litres 6j pints) water, bring to the boil an onion with 2 cloves, 2 carrots, carrots,'l1 turnip, studded with skim. Add an onion studded of celery, 1I clove clove of of garlic and season with salt. I1 leek, I1 stalk of Add 4 handfuls spelt (a kind kind of chaffy with small chaffy wheat with brownish grain). Simmer Simmer very gently for 3 hours. brownish r.{ la bretonne. bretonne. SOUPE Whiting soup rr,tnnr,lN À A LA souPE DE or MERLAN Whiting soup ài la (Breton bouilBRETONNE -- This soup is is aa kind triade (Breton kind of co cotriade BREToNNE labaisse). It is is prepared prepared in the same manner as the latter, using labaisse).It whitings cut in chunks, potatoes, and all the aromatic aromatic herbs and ail whitings that dish. It can, in fact, be considered characteristic as aa considered as characteristic of ofthat garlic or kind of bouillabaisse or oil, garlic made without tomatoes, oil, kind bouillabaisse made saffron. (See COTRIADE.)

INTERNATIONAL SOUPS SOUPS AND BROTHS.

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pOT.c,GES ET POTAGES ET

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SOUPES Ernc.Ncnns souPEs ÉTRANGERS-

Beer soup (German cookery). SOUPE t Stir 1l$ soupr ÀA LA rl BIÈRE sdRE -- Stir (2 oz., litres (2~ (2| pints, 3i g, (2 oz., f, light beer 3| pints) light beer into a roux of 50 g;

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Onion (Robcrt Carrier) Onion soup soup (Rober, Canier)

883 883

SOUPS AND AND BROTHS BROTHS SOUPS sour cream cream and and serve. serve. Mushroom Mushroom patties patties or or buckwheat buckwheat sour crottons may mayaccompany accompany the the borsch. borsch. croûtons porAGEBA (Russian cookery). Botvinya (Russian cookery).POTAGE BArwrNrA Boil'l kg. Botvinya TWINlA - - Boil" 1 kg. (2 lb.) lb.) fish (* lb.) fishand and leave leave to cool. Cook to cool. Cook 350 350g.g.G lb.) spinach spinach and (2 and (+ lb.) 225g.g. (1 lb.) sorrel sorrel separately separately and rub them them through and rub through aasieve. sieve. 225 Cut fresh fresh cucumbers gratesorne cucumbers into into strips, strips, grate some horseradish horseradishand Cut and chop sorne some spring spring ornons. Amalgamate the onions. Amalgamate the spinach spinachand chop and the the pur6es, season sorrel purées, pepper, add season with with salt saltand and pepper, sorrel addaalittle little sugar sugar teaspoonful of and aa teaspoonful of lemon lemon zest zest and and dilute dilute with with aalittle and little white white wine. wine. Pour the the botvinya plates. Cut botvinya into into aa tureen tureenor into plates. Pour fish or into Cut the the fish portions and into portions put on garnish with and put on aa dish, dish, garnish into with fresh freshcucumcucumbers, spring spring ornons, onions, horseradish horseradish and bers, and chopped chopped dil!. dill. Surround Surround the fish fish with with cooked cooked crayfish crayfish ta tails the ils and and lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Serve Serve with ice ice cubes in aa bowl, cubes in bowl, and and aasauceboat sauceboat of with of soured soured cream. cream. Potage Camaro Camaro ài la la brésilienne br6silienne -- Truss Potage ken as Truss aachic chicken as for for an an put itit into entr6e and and put into an entrée an earthenware earthenware casserole. casserole. Coyer Cover with with water. Bring Bring to to the the boil, water. boil, skim, skim, season season and andadd add aa bouquet of bouquet of parsley, chervil chervil and and aa medium-sized medium-sized onion. parsley, onion. Cook Cook for for 30 30 minutes. minutes. (*cup) Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t rice and Add cup) rice gently, and cook, cook, simmering simmering gently, for 22 or or 33 hours, for hours, depending depending on on the the tenderness tenderness of of the the bird. bird. t]ntruss the Put itit back the chicken. Untruss chicken. Put back into into the the casserole serve. casserole and and serve. (German cookery). SOUPE Cherry soupI Cberry soup I (Germancookery). soupr AUX AUx CERISES cnmsss -- Put Put in in (generous'l1 lb.) g. (generous stewpan 500 aa stewpan 500 g. stoned cherries, lb.) of of stoned cherries, with with 22 dl. dl. pint, scant (t$ pint, piece of scant cup) hot water, cup) hot water, aa small small piece of cinnamon cinnamon bark bark piece oflemon and aa small small piece peel. Cook and of lemon peel. Cook over high heat over aa high for 88 to to heat for l0 minutes. minutes. Press 10 Press the the cherries through aa fine cherries through fine sieve. sieve. pur6e with (scant 1j pint, Dilute this Dilute this purée pint, generous generous cup) with 21 2! dl. dl. (scant cup) previously boiled Bordeaux wine, Bordeaux shed cherry wine, previously with the boiled with the cru crushed cherry stones stones and and then then strained strained through through muslin. muslin. Mix, Mix, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, and and bind potato flour bind with with aa teaspoon teaspoon potato flour blended blended with with aa little cold cold water. water. Stir Stir in in aa small pour very small spoonful spoonful of sugar and of sugar very hot hot into into the and pour the tureen. tureen. Add Add sorne some rusks broken into into small pieces. small pieces. Cherry Cherry soup soup II. (generous g. (generous II. SOUPE soupE AUX AUx CERISES cERrsEs -- Cook Cook 500 500 g. 11 lb.) lemon peel lb.) stoned stoned cherries in water, water, cinnamon, peel and cherries in cinnamon,lemon 25 and 25 g. (1 (l oz., g. 2 tablespoons) o2.,2 tablespoons) sugar. sugar. Boil Boil for for 44 minutes. minutes. Thicken Thicken with aa teaspoon potato flour flour blended with with cold cold water. water. (+ pint, Dilute with pint, scant Dilute dl. (t with 22 dl. scant cup) Bordeaux wine, cup) Bordeaux wine, previously boiled previously with the boiled with crushed cherry the crushed cherry stones stones and and strained. Pour Pour boiling hot hot into the pieces of the tureen, tureen, and and serve serve with with pieces of rusk or slices of brioche lightly toasted. briochelightly Cherry soup (2 oz., soup ill. III. SOUPE soupE AUX AUx CERISES g. (2 cERrsEs -- Melt Melt 50 50 g. oz.,lt

Whiting soup (C/arre) soup àri la la bretonne bretonne (Claire) Whiting

Add aa small small duck duck browned in g. (generous (generous 1I in the the oyen, oven, 500 500 g. Add lb.) blanched blanched brisket brisket of of beef piece of beef and and aa sm small of blanched blanched lb.) ail piece lean bacon. bacon. Garnish Garnish with with aa bouquet garni containing, bouquet garni containing, in in lean addition to the usual usual herbs, sorne some fennel fennel and and marjoram. marjoram. Bring Bring addition to the boil, gently until boil, skim, and and simmer simmer gently until ail all the the meats meats are are to completely cooked, removing the duck duck and and the bacon as as soon soon completely as they are done. as Fifteen minutes minutes before before serving, serving, add add 88 small small chipolata chipolata Fifteen soup. Remove ail garnish. all the meat garnish. sausages to poach in the soup. Cut the the breast duck, beef and of duck, and bacon bacon into into dice dice and and the the Cut breast of sausages into into slices. Add aa tablespoon Mushroom (see Mushroom essence essence (see sausages (6 tablespoons, ESSENCE) to to'l1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant 1j cup) ofthejuice of the juice of of rawo grated beetroot, and and aa tablespoon chopped chopped and and blanraw, parsley to the soup. ched fennel and parsley garnish and the meat garnish and aa sauce sauceboat of soured Serve with with the boat of cream. cream. The sausages can be grilled instead of being poached in the the soup. The soured cream is is often put in the soup, soup, instead instead of of soup. being separately. being served separately. porAcE BORTSCH Russian (4t BoRrscH À A LA le RUSSE nussn -- 21 Ztlitres litres (4~ Russian borsch. POTAGE pints, 5j pints) (U.S.A. beets), 250 250 g. (9 pints, 51 pints) stock, 3 to 4 beetroots beetroots (U.S.A. oz.) fresh cabbage, 22 carrots, 1I parsnip, 2 stalks celer celery, 100 g. y, 100 (4 Frankfurther sausages (4 oz.) oz.) boiled boiled ham ham (optional), (optional), 66 Frankfurther (optional), (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) (optional), 11 large large onion, onion, 33 tablespoons tablespoons' (4 tomato tomato pur6e purée (or'100 (or 100 9.,4 g" 4 oz. fresh tomatoes), 2 tablespoons (3 sugar, 1I to 2 bayleaves, (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar, 1I tablespoon sugar, bay leaves, sprig of dill, sprig of parsley, 11 lf teaspoons teaspoon teaspoons salt, 1I teaspoon pepper, lj sour cream. 11 dl. $ (t pint, i3 cup) sour Clean and shred beetroot, beetroot, carrots, parsnip, parsmp, celery and the onion. onion. Cut the the root vegetables vegetables first into slices slices then into little 'matchsticks'. 'matchsticks'. The The decorative appearance appearance of of the vegetables in borsch borsch is very very important. Put into a saucepan, add tomatoes or (if or tomato pur6e, purée, sugar, sugar, and and enough enough stock, with a little little fat (if the the stock stock has has no fat, add I1 or 2 tablespoons tablespoons butter), butter), to coyer cover the the vegetables. vegetables. Simmer for 15 to 20 minutes, stirring from time time to to time time and adding adding stock or water water to prevent sticking. sticking. Add Add shredded shredded cabbage, cabbage, mix mix well weil and simmer simmer another'15 another 15 to 20 minutes. Pour in all ail the stock, add salt and pepper pepper to taste, minutes. Pour bay tablespoon vinegar, and simmer until the vegetvegetbay leaf, leaf,"1I tablespoon ables ables are are done. done. Potatoes Potatoes may may be be put put in the borsch borsch -- whole if they into chips if if large. large. When When the borsch is they are are small, cut into ready ready andjust and just before before serving, serving, a few slices ofboiled of boiled ham or sausages sausages ofthe of the Frankfurther Frankfurther type type can be be added added to to it. To To give give the the characteristic characteristic attractive attractive colour, colour, keep.l keep 1 beetroot beetroot for for last last minute minute use. use. Rub Rub itit through through a fine fine grater, grater, cover co ver with a cupful of stock, stock, bring bring to to the the boil, boil, simmer simmer for for 2 to 3 minutes minutes cupful of with with aa teaspoon teaspoon of vinegar, vinegar, and and strain the liquid into the borsch. borsch. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with finely finely chopped chopped parsley parsley and and dill. dill. Add Add the the

Beer soup soup (Scarzarr) (Scarna/l) Boer

884

BROTHS AND BROTHS SOUPS AND SOUPS cup) cup) butter butter in in aa saucepan. saucepan. Add Add 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) stoned stoned cherries, 25 g. g. (l (1 oz., OZ., 22 tablespoons) tablespoons) sugar, sugar, a little little cinnamon cinnamon cherries, 25 and and some sorne lemon lemon peel. peel. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. (+ (4- pint, scant scant cup) water. pour onto onto slices slices of of toast. water. Boil Boil for for 88 minutes minutes and and pour English chicken chicken soup soup or or chicken chicken broth broth I. 1. souPE SOUPE AU AU PoULET POULET A À English L'ANGLAISE -- Put Put into into aa deep deep stewpan stewpan or or marmite marmite a mediumL'ANGLAIsE Pour in.lf in I! litres litres (3 pints, pints, 4 pints) pints) plain stock' stock. sized chicken. chicken. Pour sized Bring to to the the boil, boil, skim, skim, add add salt. salt. Bring Put in in for flavouring ftavouring an onion onion stuck with a clove, a bunch Put cup) rice. 00 g: ofherbs and aa stick stick ofcelery, of celery, and and add I100 g. (4 oz., OZ., Itcup) of herbs and Simmer very very slo.wly slowly till cooked. Simmer it Put it the chicken chicken and cut it into small pieces. Put Take out the back in in the the stewpan, having removed the onion and herbs. back cooked in 11 dl. dl. $ Ct pint, 3~ cup) chopped vegetables cooked Add 1+ Add butter, and and bring bring to the ",,p) boil. butter, A L'ANGLAISE L'.tncL.e.$n -SOUPE AU AU PouLEr POULET À English chicken chic ken soup II. souPE English in Cook 2 dl. di. (} (4- pint, scant cup) chopped mixed vegetables in (3 pints, 4 pints) in lfr I! litres (3 butter until they are soft. Pour in medium-sized chicken cut up while raw ?Iain stock. Put in a medium-sized plain g: (4 OZ., oz., tI Add'l100 00 g. Bring to the boil, skim. Add into small pieces. Bring cup) rice ri ce and simmer slowly. Cut Chotodriec soup soup (Polish (Polish cookery). cnoronnrrc -- Cut souPE CHOTODRIEC cookery). SOUPE Chotodriec Add 2 a cooked beet in thin th in rounds and put them in a tureen. tureen. Add a peeled (3 tablespoons) diced egg egg yolks, yolks, 22 tablespoons tablespoons) peeled tablespoons (3 diced shrimps, and thin slices of cucumber. Sprinkle with chopped chopped mixed fennel and chives. Bring cucumbers mixed Bring to the boil pickled cucumbers fennel quart) sour (lt pints, generous quart) sour and 1I litre (I! with aa little yeast and quart) ofthejuice (lf pints, generous quart) of thejuice milk. Season, Season, mixl mix I litre (Ii with the soup, and chili chill on ice. Clam chowder clam chowder Manhattan clam or Manhattan vegetables or soup with with vegetables Clam soup (American cookery). SOUPE Cook nux LÉGUMES lfoutr,lEs -- Cook DE CLAMS cLAMs AUX souPE DE gently When dice. When in small small dice. gr (4 oz.) cut in gently in butter 100 oz.) salt pork cut 100 g. almost Cook onion. Cook diced onion. medium-sized diced add aa medium-sized cooked add almost cooked without or and one one or celery and of celery colour. Add 22 sticks sticks of without allowing it to colour. two peeled diced diced green peppers. Sprrnkle (optional). Cook Cook good tablespoon flour (optional). tablespoon ftour with aa good Sprinkle with lightly, (2f; pints, pints) pints, Ji3] pints) in 1l tj litres litres (2i Pour in the time. time. Pour all the lighily, stirring stirring ail light medium-sized Add 22 medium-sized Bring to to the the boil. boil. Add water. Bring light stock stock or or water. tomatoes, (Il OZ., g' (II oz., and 300 300 g. in dice, dice, and and cut cut in seeded, and tomatoes, peeled, seeded, 1ltà- cups) cook and cook Season and dice. Season in slightly slightly bigger bigger dice. cut in cups) potatoes cut briskly. briskly. Open liquor. their liquor. keeping their clams, keeping hard-shelled clams, Open 33 dozen dozen hard-shelled Trim trimmings the trimmings Chop the stomachs. Chop putting aside aside the the stomachs. Trim them, them, putting and dl. (t and 22 dl. liquor and the clam clam liquor put them with the saucepan with them in in aa saucepan and put $ pint, through aa Strain through for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. Strain Cook fof pint, scant water. Cook scant cup) cup) water. fine latter into the the latter Put into the soup. soup. Put liquid to to the this liquid add this strainer and and add fine strainer the the boil, boil, Bring to to the dice. Bring into large large dice. cut into parts of clams cut of the the clams the soft soft parts coyer, possible heat. heat. poach on lowest possible on the the lowest to poach them to and leave leave them cover, and Finish chopped pinch of thyme, aaspoonful spoonful chopped with aa pinchofthyme, soup with Finish the the soup parsleyand with serve with (4 OZ., Heat and and serve g. (4 cup) butter. butter. Heat oz., 1* cup) parsley and 125 125 g. water (soda crackers) whole or or broken. broken. crackers) whole water biscuits biscuits (soda New New of New that of from that differs from chowder differs New York York clam clam chowder England, pork, onion, onion, with diced diced salt salt pork, soup made made with which isis aa soup England, which potatoes, milk. potatoes, clams rich milk. and rich clams and Cock-a-Ieekie Er coQ ET AU COQ (Scottish cookery). souPE AU cookery). SOUPE Cock-a-leekie (Scottish POIREAUX (made poIREAUx OU chicken broth broth (made Add to to chicken ou COCKY-LEEKY cocKY-LEErv -- Add 2 with itsfat, fat,2 ofits skimmedof and skimmed fowl), strained strainedand with aa medium-sized medium-sized fowl), dl. thin part of cut into into thin leekscut white part of leeks pint, scant the white of the cup) of dl. (4-($ pint, scant cup) strips ken cut cut thechic chicken fleshof ofthe and the theftesh in butter, butter, and and simmered simmered in strips and in pieces. in thin thin pieces. Although thesoup soup cockerel, the todemand demand aacockerel, seemsto recipe seems Although this this recipe isis most plump, tender hen' tenderhen. prepared with with aaplump, most often often prepared Gulyas This cuLYAs - - This ror.lceGULYAS (Hungarian cookery). cookery). POTAGE soup (Hungarian Gulyas soup soup pieces,onion, stock andstock onion,and smallpieces, cut into into small made of of beef beef cut soup isis made seasoned potatoes,cooked the cookedininthe haseither paprika.ItIt has either potatoes, with paprika. seasonedwith stock, toit.it. added to noodles added stock, or or noodles Gombo ,lux (American cookery). soueuAUX cookery). SOUPE soup(American okra soup Gumbo or or okra GOMBOS, SOUPE OKRA - Cook tablespoons) tablespoons(3(3tablespoons) coMBos, soupE oKRA - Cook22tablespoons

(C/ar?e) Gulyas soup soup (Claire) Gulyas

(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) in 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 very Iightly lightly in chopped onions onions very chopped (or raw and in dice (3 oz.) ham) cut cut in dice and g. (3 raw ham) bacon (or 75 g. oz.) bacon butter. Add Add 75 butter. (9 oz.) g. (9 raw chicken diced, raw chicken in 250 250 g. oz.) diced, Put in for 33 minutes. minutes. Put cook for cook pieces of pan, until of until the the pieces the pan, shaking the flesh. Cook Cook lightly, lightly, shaking ftesh. pints) (2f; pints, pints, 3i3f pints) quite fion. in l-t l| litres litres (2! Pour in firm. Pour chicken are are quite chicken gently for for 25 25 and cook cook gently to the the boil boil and chicken stock, stock, bring bring to chicken peeled, gumbos and (5 oz.) and 22 peeled, g. (5 oz.) of of chopped chopped gumbos 150 g. minutes. Add Add 150 minutes. for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Cook for tomatoes. Cook crushed tomatoes. seeded, drained drained and and crushed seeded, add 33 servingadd and before before serving the soup, soup, and fat from from the Skim ail all fat Skim water for for 15l5 (4 tablespoons) in salted salted water boiled in rice, boiled tablespoons (4 tablespoons) rice, tablespoons water. in cold cold water. rinsed in minutes and and rinsed minutes sometimes seasoned.ItIt isis sometimes highly seasoned. be highly This soup soup should should be This Worcestershiresauce. sauce. drops of of Worcestershire few drops finished off offwith finished with aa few the lu LIÈVRE r$vnn - - Cut Cutthe PoTAGE AU cookery). POTAGE Hare soup soup (EngUsh Hare @nglish cookery). pieces and with in pieces andcook cookininbutter butter with hare in legs of of hare forequarters and and legs forequarters of (6 tablespoons) consisting of of aa mirepoix mirepoix consisting tablespoons) of tablespoons (6 55 tablespoons of part of sprig of ham, aa sprig leeks, lean lean ham, of leeks, white part carrots, ion, white carrots, on onion, leaf. parsley, thyme and aa bay bay leaf. parsley, thyme and them well browned, sprinklethem areweil browned,sprinkle ingredients are When When ail all these these ingredients Brown the the cornstarch. Brown arrowroot or orcornstarch. cup) arrowroot with with 30 30 g.g. (1(l OZ., oz., i-* cup) (3j pints, pints,4t pints)ordinary 4| pints) ordinary add22litres arrowroot litres (31 arrowroot lightly, lightly, add gentlyfor 2lhours. hours. for2t simmer gently stock, stock, season, season,and and simmer cutinin perforatedspoon, them,cut spoon, bone bonethem, with aaperforated Remove Remove the legswith the legs few Moistenwith withaafew hot.Moisten salpiconhot. small this salpicon keepthis small dice diceand and keep cutinin thehare's hare's liver, liver, cut Add the tablespoons stock. Add strained stock. tablespoons of ofstrained poach lightly. small lightly. and poach smallslices, slices,and perforated spoon spoonand and withaaperforated Take harewith ofthe thehare Take out therest rest of out the poundtogether meat,pound together bone boned hare haremeat, tothe theboned it.Add theIiver liver t6 bone it. Add the ininaamortar sieve. rub through through aasieve. mortarand and rub with Flavour ititwith Strain for25 25minutes. minutes.Flavour skimititfor stockand andskim Strain tbe thestock and marjoram,basil basiland 33tablespoons ofsweet sweetmarjoram, tablespoons)of tablespoons(4(4tablespoons) spice rosemary butter,and andspice oz.,i-i cup) butter, add60 60g.g.(2(2OZ., rosemary infusion, infusion,add "rrp) with pepper. pinchof withaapinch ofcayenne cayennepepper. pourthe stock Put andpour thestock pur6e into souptureen tureenand intoaasoup harepurée Put the thehare over the Addthe thehare haresalpicon salpicontotothe whisk. Add withaawhisk. Mixweil wellwith over it.it.Mix port. soup cup)of ofport. soupwith with44tablespoons tablespoons (4-$cup) ItIt isisusual redcurrant addaatablespoon tablespoonofofredcurrant England totoadd usualininEngland justbefore jelly jellytotohare serving. beforeserving. haresoup soupjust Potage oz.) Put600 lb.66oz.) flamande - - Put 600g.g.(I(llb. PotageHochepot Hochepotài lalaflamande (l I brisket (l Ioz.) ofmutton, mutton,300 300g.g.(II oz.)shoulder shoulderof 300g.g.(Il ofbeef, brisket of beef,300 oz.) tails, 600 g.g.(l(llb.lb.6 6 pigs'tails,600 oz.)pigs' 150g.g.(5(5oz.) mutton,150 ofmutton, oz.) breast breast of oz.) salted ( I Ioz.) pigs'ears 250g.g.(9(9oz.) oz.)salted pigs'feet, earsand and250 oz.)pigs' feet,300 oz.)pigs' 300g.g.(Il bacon intoaabig stockpot. bigstockpot. bacon into Coyer (5fpints, pints,616|pints) pints)water, water, with33litres litres(5imeatswith thesemeats Coverthese season (lj teaspoons) Bringtotothe skim, salt.Bring theboil, boil,skim, teaspoons)salt. season with12 with 12g.g.(lt and gently. andsimmer simmergently. After leeks carrots,1 Ionion, onion,4 4leeks add22carrots, ofcooking cookingadd After22hours hoursof

885 885

BROTHS SOUPS AND AND BROTHS SOUPS (white part part only), head of only), aa head of cabbage cabbage and potatoes -and 33 big (white big potatoes slicing ail all these vegetables. Contin these vegetables. Continue ue to slicing to cook, cook, simmering simmering gently for for about about 22 hours. hours. gently Serve the bouillon garnishing itit with of this soup soup in in aa tureen, tureen, garnishing bouillon ofthis Serve with few vegetables. Serve the meats meats and and rest Serve the the vegetables aa few rest of ofthe vegetables poached in separately. Addl2 Add l2 chipolata chipolata sausages sausages poached separately. in the the soup. soup. Leberkniideln or or Hungarian Hungarian soup soup witb with liver liver dumplings. Leberknôdeln dumplings. porAGE HONGROIS g. (generous (generous 1I lb.) HoNcRors -- Cut Cut 500 500 g. POTAGE lb.) lean lean beef beef (taken from from the the top of of contre-filet) contre-filet) into into large (taken large dice dice and and brown brown in butter with g: (4 (4 oz., 100 g. with 100 oz.,l1 cup) cup) chopped chopped onion. as on itit in onion. Se Season good pinch pinch of with salt, salt, aa good paprika, 33 g. (scant teaspoon) g. (scant of paprika, with teaspoon) garlic. Sprinkle cumin and and aa pinch of (l oz., of garlic. Sprinkle with g. (1 cumin with 20 20 g. oz., ±* cup) cup) flour. Cook Cook for for aa few few moments, (3f pints, moments, dilute dilute with pints, litres (31 fiour. with 22litres 4| pints) ordinary ordinary stock, stock, bring to to the the boil, and 41 and simmer simmer fof for 1I (5 oz., g. (5 potatoes: oz., 1I cup) cup) diced hour. Add 150 g. diced potatoes: put 33 tablespoons When serving, (4 tablespoons) serving, put tablespoons (4 When tablespoons) diced diced crottons fried fried in butter into into the soup. croûtons soup. Hungarian soup with liver liver dumplings. dumplings. SOUPE Hungarian soupE AUX AUx BOULETTES BouLETTEs (2f pints, DE FOIE ForE -- Add Add to l| litres pints, 3± to 11 litres (2i pints) boiling DE 3| pints) consomm6,liver prepared in this way: consommé, liver ddumplings umplings prepared g. (5 (5 oz.) Cook'150 oz.) diced calf's calf 's or Cook 150 g. or ox liver in lard or or butter moments. Season, Season, and and sauté for a few moments. saut6 over aa moderately high heat. Pound the liver in a mortar and and rub it through through a sieve sieve into aa (2 oz., ± basin. Stir until smooth and g. (2 and add 50 g. basin. cup) softened I cup) (2 oz., ~jcup) g, (2 butter, 50 50 g. cup) chopped ions cooked butter, chopped on for aa few onions few cooked for g. (I~ (l! oz., if; cup) fresh breadcrumbs, 1I a0 g. moments in butter, 40 parsley, and 2 beaten eggs. teaspoon chopped chopped parsley, teaspoon paprika and grated nutmeg. Mix weil. Season with salt, paprika Season well. Make ddumplings umplings or long quenelles and 11 and poach them in in'lj (2f pints, 3± 3f pints) boiling litres (2:i boiling consommé consommE fof for 15 l5 minutes. Lithuanian soup. Lithuanian soup. SOUPE soupE LITUANIENNE LTTUANTENNE -- Add Add half aa celery heart, sliced sliced into into strips gently in I~ heart, strips and and cooked gently in butter, butter, to to-lf (2f pints, pints, 3± pints) very litres (2i potato soup litres 3f pints) very light light potato soup (without (3 tablefor 30 butter). Cook for 30 minutes. Add Add 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 spoons) spoons) sorre] sorrel leaves leaves cooked cooked tiU till soft soft in in butter, butter, "1I dl. dl. (6 g. (2 oz., tablespoons, scant ~* cup) sour cream and and 50 g. cnp) oz.,** cup) fresh butter. Garnish with little little squares of streaky bacon, poached and Garnish and skinned chipolata skinned chipolata sausages, sausages, and fried egg yolks. puree of liver soup. (Hungarian (Hungarian cookery). Leber-suppe Leber-suppe or purée g, (2 oz., * cup) onion, 50 soupE A rn pun6p SOUPE À LA PURÉE DE ForE FOIE -- Cook 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz.) g. (2 pork and g. (2 oz., oz., ~i cup) carrot, 50 c.rp) carrot, 50 g. lean salt oz.) lean salt pork and aa shallot, ail shallot, all finely chopped, in melted butter with with aa sprig of bay leaf. ' thyme and half half a bay When the vegetables are cooked, add 200 g. g. (7 (7 oz.) diced 's or grated nutmeg calf's or ox liver. Iiver. Season pepper and grated calf Season with salt, pepper (2 tableand brown quickly. Sprinkle with with 11 lj tablespoons (2 spoons) flour. fiour. Stir Stir in I1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ~f cup) white spoons) wine and lj I~ litres (2f; (2i pints, 3* consommé. Cook 3f pints) consomm6. Cook for 25 minutes. Drain the liver and and vegetables and and pound together in a mortar. Rub through a fine sieve. sieve. Add the cooking liquor, consommé. diluting it, ifif necessary, with a few tablespoons consomm6. diluting Bring the boil and serve serve with small small cro0tons croûtons of of bread bread fried Bring to the in butter. butter. with klyotski klyotski (Russian (Russian cookery). cookery). porAGE POTAGE soup with Livonian soup LIVONIEN AUx AUX KLoSKI KLOSKI -- Chop Chop an an onion on ion and 50 50 g: g; (2 oz.) sorrel LIVoNIEN cook them in 33 tablespoons tablespoons (4 tablespoons) leaves finely finely and cook leaves pan. Add 500 g. g. (1 (1 lb.) blanched, well weil butter in a covered pan. spinach. Cook Cook together together for aa few few moments, then add drained spinach. (i pint, scant 2 cups) Béchamel sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). Mix 44 dl. (f,pint, cups) Btchamel fof l5 15 minutes. minutes. weil and simmer simmer gently for well Rub through through a sieve. sieve. Dilute Dil ute with I1 litre litre (lf (1 i pints, pints, generous generous Rub quart) ordinary stock. Put back back into the the saucepan saucepan for fifteen 'l dl. withl dl. (6 minutes, skimming frequently. frequently. Finish Finish off with minutes, cup) cream cream and 60 60 g. (2 (2 oz.,f,cup) oz., * cup) butter, butter, tablespoons, scant scant ]1- cup) tablespoons, and serve serve wfih with klyotski klyotski (quenelles) (quenelles) prepared as as follows: and

(7 oz.) Make Make 200 (see 200 g.g. (7 pastry (see oz.) of of unsweetened unsweetened Chou Chou pastry CHOU). CHOU). Add Add to to itit aa tablespoon tablespoon chopped, chopped, blanched and blanched and pressed out 25 g. (1 oz., blespoons) chopped, pressed g.(l shallots,25 out shallots, oz., 11 lj tatablespoons) chopped, (l oz.) lean g. (1 lean cooked cooked harn ham and and 25 25 g. oz.) very very small cro0tons fried fried in in small croûtons butter. butter. Take Take up up aa little little of mixture with of the the mixture with aa teaspoon teaspoon and drop and drop into into boiling water or or stock. stock. The The klyotski boiling water ready when klyotski are are ready when they they fioat float up up to to the the surface. surface. (Itdian cookery). Mille-fanti Mille-fanti soup soup (Italian cookery). SOUPE soupE MILLE-FANTI MrLLE-FANII -- Put Put (3 oz., into 11 cups) into aa basin g. (3 (2 basin 80 80 g. oz.,'lj cups) fresh g. (2 fresh breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, 50 50 g. oz., grated Parmesan oz., 1{ cup) Parmesan cheese cup) grated cheese and and 22 beaten beaten eggs. eggs. Season Season with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper nutmeg and and nutmeg and mix mix weil. well. Add, Add, little little by by (2f pints, pints, 3± pints) boiling little, to 1lj~ litres litres (2:i 3f pints) consomm6. boiling consommé. Coyer pan and Cover the the pan cook very slowly slowly for and cook for 88 minutes. minutes. Stir with Stir with aa whisk whisk before serving. serving. panada of This This soup, soup, which which isis aa kind kind of ofpanada of cheese cheese and and egg, egg, can can be made with place of with water water in in place of consommé. consomm6.

Minestrone (Clarre) Minestrone (Claire)

Minestrone (Italim cookery) -- Melt in aa sucepan 40 (l* g. 01Mnestrone (!tallan a0 g. oz., 3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped salt pork fat and add 50 50 g. (2 oz., oz, 3 slices) streaky bacon cut in pieces, 22 tablespoons in small pieces, tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped chopped onion and the chopped chopped white of aa leek. Cook li litres (3 (3 pints, 4 pints) Cook gently for 55 minutes. Pour in in.lf water, season, bring to the boil. Add aa carrot, aa turnip, aa season, and bring potato and stick of celery celery cut in pieces, the and aa tender stick in small pieces, heart of of a smaU small cabbage sirnilarly similarly cut and 22 tomatoes tomatoes peeled, ± seeded and chopped. Boil for 25 minutes. Add 50 g. (2 oz., 50 g. o2.,f, cup) beans, 1I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant ~I cup) cup) diced French beans, dl. (6 fresh peas and 80 g. (3 oz., gently for 45 oz.,*1 cup) cup) rice. Cook Cook very gently 45 minutes. pork fat Add aa tablespoon chopped salt pork fat crushed crushed with 22 garlic, aa tablespoon chopped basil and aa tablespoon cloyes of cloves ofgarlic, chopped basil chopped parsley. Any vegetables in may be be put put in in season may minestrone. Mock-turtle soup soup (English (English cookery) Mock-turfle cookery) -- Soak aa calf's calf 's head in water, bone it and cook in white stock with carrots, onion, onion, garni, cloves, cloyes, salt celery, a a bouquet garni, pepper. Drain salt and and pepper. Drain the off the ears (which are are not used used for this soup), trim head, cut offthe under aa press between between two the rest of the meat and put it under plates. When When it is is quite quite cold, cut cut it into pieces. pieces. Keep Keep these these hot plates. in a little little of of the stock, to be be added to the soup later. leg of Prepare a clear brown gravy, made of slices of salt leg of pork, veal knuckle and a half-roasted chicken. Dilute with meats are nearly done and gravy is boiled stock. When the meats stock pot vegetables. vegetables. Simmer Simmer gently down, add the the stock and stockpot down, about 22 hours. for about Strain. Thicken with a little arrowroot diluted with cold

t

886

SOUPS AND BROTHS

SOUPS AND BROTHS

stock. stock.Add Addtotoititananinfusion infusionofofbasil, basil,spring springonion, onion,madoram, marjoram, in Madeira thyme thymeand andbay bayleaf leafin Madeiraororport. pour it into a and Strain Strainthe thesoup soupthrough throughaamuslin cloth souptureen. tureen.Gainish Garnishwith withthe thepieces of calf 's head kept for soup thispurpose, and and small smallquenelles qU(~nellesmade of forcemeat mixed this with pounded, hard-boiled egg yolks. Mulligatawny soup I - tigriaients. 2 litres (3* pintsl 4* pints) liater, i tg. (Z+ lb.) mutton, 2 onions, 2 carrots, 2 apptes, I small turnip, a bouquet garni, 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour, I tablespooncurry powder, thejuice of a! lemon,salt. salt. lemon. Method. Remove Removethe thefat fatfrom from the themutton muttonand andmelt meltititininthe the Method. saucepan. Slice Slice the the apples apples and and vegetables vegetables and and when when there there isis saucepan. sufficientliquid Iiquid fat fat to to fry fry them, them, take take out out the thepieces pieces of offat,-put fat, put sufficiint in the the vegetibles vegetables and and cook cook for for about about15 15 minutes. minutes. Sprinklein Sprinkle in in add curry powder, powder, fry fry for for aa few few minutes, minutes, add the the the flouiand fiour and curry the meat cut cut in in small small pieces, pieces, aa teaspoon teaspoon salt, salt, the the herbs herbs and and water' water. meat and cook cook gently gently for for Boil, remove remove the the icum scum as as itit rises, rises, cover, coyer, and Boil, about 33 hours. hours. Strain, Strain, rub rub the the meat meat through through aa sieve, sieve, and and about return to to the the saucepan. saucepan. When When boiling, boiling, add add the the lemon lem on juice, juice, return and serve serve with with well-cooked well-cooked rice. rice. season, and season, meat or any kind The bones bones and and remains remains of ofany kind of ofmeat or poultry poultry may may The mutton. be used used instead instead of ofmutton. be Il (English (Englisb cookery) - Cut a mediumffinlligatawny soup II sized chfike n ai as forftit"ot"i, ittd cook it in 2 litres (3] pints, 4] sized "ook pints) white white stock with sliced carrot and an an onion, onion, aa bouquet pints) tablespoons 3 parsley and gorni, garni, a sprig of tablespoonS' (4 (4 tablespoons) tablespoons) mushroom parings. mushroom g. (2 oz.,* cup) butter' Brown ua ittopp"O onion onion lightly in 50 50 g. butter. Brown small (l OZ., cup) cornflour and aa small g. (1 o2.,1 Sprinkle with )b g. ± cup) and stock and chicken stock the chicken with the spoonful powder. Moisten with cu.ty po*der. sioonful curry cook gently for for 10 minutes. dl' add 22 dl. and add 15 minutes, minutes, and for 15 simmer for sieve, simmer Striin through a sieve, scant cup) cream. pint, $," ^Put and tureen and soup tureen into aa soup chicken into pieces of of chicken the the trimmed pieces (see l'indienne (see Rice àd l'indienne with Rice Serve with them' Serve strain soup over ouei them. the soup strain the RICE). RrcE). brunoise coarse brunoise Cook aa coarse (English cookery) cookery) -- Cook Mutton broth (English Mutton broth part only), only), aa (white part leeks (white turnip, 22 leeks composed carrot, aa turnip, of aa carrOI, composed of with 22 cover with in butter. butter. Coyer onion in white onion and aa white good celery and of celery stalk of eood stalk (Il oz.) oz') 300 g.g' (11 Add 300 stock. Add pints) white white stock. pints, 4l 4f pints) litres iitres (31 pints, blanched (4 oz., c"p) blanched oz',i cup) 100 g!gt (4 and 100 and neck breast mutton and of mutton neck of breast'aid hours. for l| hours. gently for barley. mer gently Simmer barley. Sim put itit and put dice and into large large dice cut into Drain bonelt, cut mutton, bone the mutton, Drain the blanched and blanched chopped and tablespoon chopped back Add aatablespoon the broth. broth. Add into the back into parsley. parsley. MouroN DEMOUTON PoTAGE DE qtVle). POTAGE Mlitton la grecque (Greek style). soup ili la Mutton soup light oflight pints)of (2| pints, pints, 3± 3| pints) A r.r. cnsceuB - tvtit" t| titres (2i Purte of split pea souP. cutinin mutton,cut ofmutton, breast of bonedbreast fry 5OO g. (genetous I lb.)boned of brunoiseof cups)brunoise scant22cups) large dice, in Ui,tter with 4 dl. (* pilt,scant stock pints) Iight lightstock 6fpints) litres (5| pints,&! vegetables. with33litres Moistenwith veg-etables. Moisten skim' boil,skim, theboil, Bringtotothe pepper-Bring andpepper. or water. Season saltand withsalt Seasonwith or"water. for'lj hours. and simmer gentlYfor andsimmer stock' muttonstock, themutton andthe Mix the Purteofof tpllt p"o soupand Mixthe fora a Boilfor brunoise.Boil thebrunoise. leaving pieies bf mutton andthe thepieces leavingininititthe few moments. fewmoments. cLAIR oxrArlCLAIRPoTAGEOXTAlL Clear oxtail soup (English cookery).POTAGE Clearoxtail stewpan' intoa astewpan, chunks,into Put cutinin smallchunks, (311b.) oxtail,cut kg.(3-} Putliljkg. Sweatinin onions.Sweat andonions. leeksand on carrots,teeks slicedcarrots, fluidat-ionofofsliced ona afoundation the minutes. for2525minutes. theoyen ovenfor madebyby pints)stock stockmade pints,5t5jpints) (4jpints, Coyer litres(4t with2t2!litres Coverwith hoursinin3*3f, for7 7oror8 8hours geiaiinousbones boneifor (:ilb.) 1 rtkg. lb.)gelatinous kg.(3i "oon"i litres Season. water.Season. pints)water. pints,7 7pints) litres (5f;pints, from313f imperceptible,from boilingisisimperceptible, Simmer theboiling thatthe gently,sosothat Simtrieigently, toto4 4hours. hours. boiling fat.C1arify Clarifybybyboiling Strain surplus fat. offsurplus skimoff andskim thesoup soupand Strainthe beef leanbeef (generous1 lb.) choppedlean I lb.)chopped it itfor 500g. g'(generous with500 hourwith forananhour

±

t

part of two leeks, finely sliced, both these and and the the white white part of two leeks, finely sliced, both these whisked with a raw white of egg. ingredients ingredients whisked with a rawcloth' whiteGarnish of egg. with pieces of -Strain stock through a Strain the the stock through a clotho Garnish with and 3 dl. Gpint, lfcups) ofcoarse brunoise ofcarrots, oxtail oxtail and 3 dl. (t pint, 1* of coarse brunoise sweated in butter and dropped into the turnips and and celeiy celery sweated and dropped into the of sherrY. stock. Add aatablesPoon tablespoon of sherry. cookery). PoTAGE oxren I.16 Thick Tbick oxtail oxtail souf lnogiS, (English When the POTAGE OXTAIL LIÉ broth has been oxtail. Clear for Proceed as Proceed as for oxtail.(2 broth hasbrown been tablespoons) o2,4 the 50 g. with it thicken strained, strained, thicken it with 50 (2 oz., good 4 tablespoons) brown (4 tablespoons 3 (quart), and litre roux roux to to each each litre and 3 good tablespoons (4 purbe. Garnish with mixed vegetables tomato tablespoons) tablespoons) tomato purée. with mixed vegetables in butter, as for clear oxtail soup' Flavour cut cutup up and and cooked cooked in butter, as for clear oxtail soup. Flavour sherry. with with sherry. See OLLAsoup. PoTAGE oLLA-PoDRIol Olla-podrirla OUa-podrida SOlip. POTAGE OLLA-PODRIDA -- See OLLAPODRIDA. PODRIDA.

100 g; (4 with okra (American cookery) -- Put Oyster Oyster soup SOlip witb okra (American 9o9!ery) Put 100 g. (4 pork fat into a thick-bottomed saucepan, chopped i cup) oz., oz., 1 cup) chopped pork fat into a thick-bottomed saucepan, anO wtren ttre fii melts add I 00 g. (4 oz., I cup) chopped onion and when the fat melts add 100 g. (4 oz., 1 cup)Add chopped onion 3 tomatoes gently without letting it colour' and and cook cook itit gently without letting it colIour. Add 3 tomatoes pepper green quarters, l0 okras, small peeled peeled and and cut cut in in q uarters, 10 ok ras, generous 1 small green quart)pepper white litre (scant quart, hnely finely chopped, chopped, anill and 1 litre (scant quart, generous quart) white powder may (a curry little pepper and salt stock. stock. Season Season with with salt and pepper (a little curryput powder de' in'24may for 15 minutes, then Cook if liked). added, be be added, if liked). Cook for 15 minutes, thcn put in· 24 detheir liquor, and poach them for a few with oysters bearded bearded oysters with their Iiquor, and poach them for a few the soup with a little arrowroot' moments. moments. Thicken Thicken the with a little arrowroot. Cook, in Plsrou AU souPE cookery). I Otalian Pistou soup 1 (ltalian SOUPE AU PISTOU - Cook, in water' 250 g' (9 oz',1 clp) 3| pints) boiling water,250 lf litres (2f pinti, 3* (9 oz., 1and cup)2 pieces, 3 potatoes cut in small diced French beansf beans, cut in pieces, and 2 seeded, and crushed' Season' peeled tomatoes, peeIed tomatoes, and crushed. Season. are almost cooked add 100 g' (4 oz') vegetables are the vegetables When the When almost cooked add 100 g. (4 oz.) very slowly. cooking very Finish cooking spaghetti. Sp
887 887

SOUPIR DE NONNE SOUPIR DE NONNE bind with 2 egg yolks beat_en in I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant bind 2 egg yolks 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup)with cream. Add verybeaten small in dumplings of chicken forcemeai cup) small dumplings of chicken forcemeat poach Add andcream. in thevery soup. and Shchi poach(Russian in the soup. cookery). porAGE srscHy _ Cook 2large Shchi (Russian cookery). POTAGE STSCHY - Cook 2 large chopped onions in 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) butter uniil chopped 2 tablespoons tablespoons) butter until they areonions a paleingolden colour. (3 Sprinkle with 2'tablerpoorr. they are a pale golden colour. Sprinkle 2 tablespoons flour, cook for a few moments, and stir inwith 2j litres (+j pints, 5| flour , cook forstock. a few Bring moments, and stir in 2~ litres pints, pints) white to the boil. Add 250 e. (g oi.) brislei pints) white Bring to the boil. Add 250 g. (9 oz.) brisket of beef cut stock. into large dice, blanched for 10 minutes in salted ofwater, beef cut into large blanched for 10 minutes in salted drained anddice, trimmed, and 250 g. (9 oz.) coarsely water, drained and trimmed, aod 250 g. (9 oz.) coarsely chopped sauerkraut. Add a good bunch of herbs-and cooi< chopped sauerkraut. a good bunch of herbs and cook very gently for aboutAdd 3 hours. Add l+ dl. pint, cup) sour very gently about 3 hours. Add 11 dl. (i$pint, ~ f-cup) sour cre€m and for a teaspoon chopped blanched pariley. cream and a teaspoon chopped blanched parsley. Solyanka @ussian cookery). porAGE solnNrl _ prepare 2 _.Solyanka (Russian cookery). POTAGE SOLIANKA - Prepare 2 t_i!rys ($ pints, 4j pints) ham-flavoured consomm6, and add litres (3-!- pints, 41 cups) pints) braised ham-flavoured consommé, and add sauerkraut and a tablespoon er(9-oz.,lj ??0 250 g. (9 oz., 11 cups) braised sauerkraut and a tablespoon blanched parsley leaves. blanched parsley leaves. Sour cream soup f (Hungarian cookery). soupE A r,l. cniw Sour cream soup 1 (Hungarian cookery). SOUPE À LA CRÈME rucnr Add to l j litres (2f, pints, 3* pintij thin white sauce an 11 litres pints, 3i pints) thin white sauce an AIGRE onion- Add stuckto with a. (2~ clove, abouquet boiquet garni, a pinch of onion stuckcumin with and a c1ove, garni, a pinch of powdered grated anutmeg. Cook for 20'minutes, powdered nutmeg. Cook for 20 minutes, skimmingcumin well. and Rubgrated through a fine sieve. Add dl.(6(6 skimming weil . Rub through a fine sieve. Add 1I dl. tablespoons, scant j cup) sour cream and serve with cro0tons tablespoons, scant ~ cup) sour cream and serve with croûtons of bread fried in butter. of bread fried in butter. Sour cream soup II. soups A re cn$Me llcnr _ Make a white Sourofcream soup II. SOUPE À LA CRÈME AIGRE- Make a white rgux 3 tablespoons (4 tablespoons) each of butter and roux tablespoons' (4 quart, tablespoons) each of butter and flour.of Stir3 in'l litre (scant generous quart) stock and j flour. Stir inl litre (scant quart, generous quart) stock and litre (scant pint,2La cups) boiled milk. Finiih garnish as and ai litre (scant pint, 2i cups) boiled milk. Finish and garnish above. above. soup, or Meilsuppe, also called flour soup ,,.Sweet-sour_ caUed fiour soup Sweet-sour soup, or Meblsuppe, also (German cookery). soupE ArcRE-DoucE, soupE A r,c. ranNe l (German cookery). SOUPE AIGRE-DOUCE, SOUPE À LA FARINE Cut up finely a medium-sized onion and the parts of white parts of Cut up finely a medium-sized on ion and the white two leeks, and cook them for a few moments in 2 tablespoons twotablespoons) leeks, and cook them for a few moments in 2 tablespoons (3 butter. Sprinkle with tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) butter. Sprinkle with 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) flour. Add l+ litres (2f, pints, 3f, pints) stock or tablespoons) flour. Add 1-!- litres (2~ pints, 3i pints) stock or water and cook for 25 minutes. Stir in 2 dl. $ pint, scant cup) water and cook for 25 minutes. Stir in 2 dl. (~pint, scant cup) thick cream and a tablespoon fresh butter. cream and a tablespoon fresh butter. thick Milanaise hipe soup, or Butsega. AU GRAs_Dousrr A Milanaise tripe soup, or Butséga. soupE SOUPE AU GRAS-DOUBLE À LA MILANATSS - Cut in thin strips 500 g. (generous I lb.) veal LA MILANAISE - Cut in tilln strips 500 g. (generous 1 lb .) veal tripe, blanched, trimmed and draineO. puiin a saucepan with tripe, blanched, trimmed and drained. Put in a saucepan with onion_and the white part of a leek, oniondiced and the white part of a leek, also aJso chopped, chopped, and and cooked cooked with salt pork fat. Cook for with diced salt pork fat. Cook for aa few few moments, moments, sprinkle sprinkle with_ a tablespoon flour and stir in 2 litres (3j pints, +i pints) with a tablespoon flour and stir in 2 litres (31 pints, pints) stock or water. Bring to the boil. peeted, stock or water. Bring to the boil. Add Add 22 peeled, seeded-, seeded, sliced sliced tomatoes, a cabbage heart cut in thin strips, 5 tablespoons (6 tomatoes, a cabbage heart cut in tilln strips, 5 tablespoons (6

t

(4t

5t

-

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4t

tablespoons)peas peas and a few broccoliheads. heads. season and tablespoons) and a few broccoli Season and cook cook briskly. briskly. Turtlesoup (English porAGE soup(English _ This cookery).POTAGE roRruE- This Turtle cookery). ÀA LAr.c, TORTlJE soup,made madefrom fromthethelarge largesea sea turtle,is isprepared preparedwith withthethe soup, turtle, bonycarapace carapaceand plastrononly, andplastron only,from fromwhich wtiictrthe the bony outside oror outside thinhard hardshell shellhas hasbeen beenremoved. removed. thin Thecarapace carapaceand plastronofofthe andplastron theanimal (bledforforasaslong animal(bled The long possibleafter afterkilling) killing)are arecut cutinto pieces,blanched intopieces, blanchedfor asaspossible fora few a fei minutes in boiling water,cleaned cleanedoforthe theouter outershields shieldsthat minutes in boiling water, that coverthem, them,put putinina abig bigstewpan stewpanwith withrichly richlyflavoured coyer flavoured consomm6,savoury savouryvegetables vegetablesand andTurtfe Turtleherbs (see consommé, herbs(see HERBS),and andcooked cookedlike likeananordinary ordinarybroth brothfor for6 6oror7 7hours. HERBS), hours. piecesofofturtle Thepieces aredrained, drained,boned, boned,cut cutinto intopieces piecesand The turtle are and keptwarm warmininstrained strainedbroth. broth. kept Theliquor liquorused usedtotocook cookthe theturtle turtlecan canbebea astock stockmade The madewith with theflesh fleshofofthe theinterior interiorofofthe theanimal, animal,reinforced reinforcedwith the withsorne some beef and chicken. Thesoup soupisisstrained strainedthrough througha acloth, beef and chicken. The cloth, reheatedand andenriched enrichedwith with44dl.dl.(~(i pint, pint,scant reheated scint2 Zcups) cupsj (orsherry) Madeira(or sherry)totoeach eachlitre (quart). litre(quart) Madeira . Thearomatic aromaticherbs herbsused usedfor forflavouring flavouringare The arebasil, basil,marmarjoram, sage, sage,rosemary, rosemary,savoury savouryand andthyme, thyme.Coriander joram, Coriander and and peppercorns arealso alsoadded addedininaalittle littlemuslin muslinbag. peppercorns are bag. Just before before serving, serving, the piecesof the pieces ofturtle putback Just turtle are areput backininthe the soup. soup. porAGE Turtle (thick). soup _ r..cTORTUE ronruE- Made Turtle soup (thick). POTAGE ÀALA Madeininthe the same way wayas asdescribed described inin the previousrecipe. the previous recipe. After same Afterstraining straining thickenedwith withaaroux rouxof 25g.g.(1(l oz., of 25 o2.,4 ititisisthickened 4 tablespoons) tablespoons) floui -o2., flour and 22 tablespoons g0g.g. (3(3 oz., tablespoons butter, butter, or or with with 80 and tj cup) cup) arrowroot to to 1I litre (scant quart, litre (scant quart, generous generousquart) quart) soup. arrowroot soup-. (Russian porAGE Ukha cookery). POTAGE OUKA Ukha (Russian cookery). ouKA - _Prepare Frepare fish fishstock stock using sturgeon, sturgeon, tench tench or perch, weil or perch, using well spiced spiced with with parsnip, parsnip, celery, fennel fennel and and mushroom mushroom parings. parings. celery, Mu!. small small paupiettes paupieues of of lavaret lavaret or or white white fish fish and poach and poach . Make them.- Prepare Prepare 250 g. (9 (9 oz., 250 g, julienne of oz,, 2i 2t cups) cups)julienne them. parsnii, and ofparsnip, and the white part of white part leek and of leek and celery. celery. Cook the when in butter, Cook in butter, and andwhen quite soft soft moisten moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons strained quite strained fish stock. fish stock. Clarify the the stock, stock, either either with with caviar Clarify caviar or or chopped chopped whiting, whiting, and strain through cloth., and strain aa cloth Add the the paupiettes and julienne of paupiettes and of vegetables vegetables to to the the soup. soup. _ Add with a timbale of serve with of cooked buckwheat Serve buckwheit and and aa dish dish ofsmall of small (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Rastegais HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot hors-d'œuvre). Rastegais (see hors-d' cuvre\. Veal soup with herbs (Dutch cookery). SOUPE Veal soup soupE DE DE VEAU vEAU AUX AUx HERBES HERBES - Veal stock thickened with a a white roux, roax, seasoned seasoned with with aromatic aromatic herbs and garnished garnished with quenelles quenelles or dumplings Iings made made with with veal and chopped chopped herbs. herbs,

SOUPIR SOUPIR DE DE NONNE NONNE (Nun's sigh) sigh) -- Name Name sometimes sometimes used used

for made of chou chou pastry pastry commonly commonly called called for the the souffiE soufflé fritter made Pet Pet de de nonne. nonne. (See (See FRITTERS, FRITTERS, Souffitfritters.) Souffiéfritters.)

SOUP SOUP LADLE. LADLE. LoucHE LOUCHE -- Deep Deep spoon spoon used used to to serve serve soup. soup. Soup Soup ladles ladIes are are made made in in different different siies. sizes,

SOUR. SOUR.alcRsAIGRE - Possessing Possessingan an acid acid and and piquant piquant taste taste or or smell. smel!.

SOURIRE SOURIRE -- Term Term meaning meaning to to simmer simmer very very gently. gently, For For example: example: 'Le 'Lepot-au-feu pot-au-feusourit, sourit'..

SOUR-SWEET. SOUR-SWEET. ncnr-Doux AIGRE-DOUX -- Having Having aa sweet sweet and and sour sour

taste. taste.

SOUS-NAPPE SOUS-NAPPE(Under-tablecloth) (Under-tablecloth)-- The Thecustom customofofputting puttingaa piece pieceof ofthick thickflannel flannel under underthe thetablecloth tablecloth should should bi be nonial normal practice practiceininthe thehomehome. Utensils Utensilsmake makeno nonoise noiseas as thev theyare are set set down. down.

SOUS-NOIX SOUS-NOIXOF OFVEAL VEAL-- Term Termused usedininFrench Frenchbutchery butcherytoto describe describethe theunder underpart partofsilverside of silversideofthe of theleg legofveal. of veal.

SOUTH SOUTH AMERICA AMERICA

Cutting up turtles for the preparation of turtle s oup (Widc World) Cutting up turtles for the preparation of turtle soup (Wide World)

See INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL See

COOKERY, COOKERY,American Americancookerv. cookery. 888 888

Trou!auaubleu(Lassene. bleu (Losserre,Phot. Phol.Nicolas) Nicolas) Trout

SPARKLING country. It is the richest and cheapest source of easily in dry country. protein, has a fairly high vegetable protein, vegetable high fat and low starch starch content. Soya bean in one form or another is in daily use in the East. rRouecB DE DE SOJA soJA -- Cook freshly shelled Soya bean curd. FROMAGE soya beans in water, water, without without salt. salt. When When the they soya beans in y are are almost cooked pour off the greater part of the water. Continue Continue to cook until the skins skins are very tender. tender. Tum Turn out into an cook until the are very out into earthenware dish and leave till the next day, when they will have Reheat, drain off the the liquid, liquid, and and rub have become jellied. jellied. Reheat, through a fine sieve. Add the drained-off drained-offcooking through cooking liquor. This vegetable jelly is rich in legumin, which differs from casein only in the products of of its decomposition. little milk or yeast to produce fermentation fermentation and salt Add a !ittle Drain in a sieve. Separa to taste. Drain te into cheese and leave leave them Separate to'take'in 'take' in the usual way. to preparation is vIANDE DE meat. VIANDE Soya meat. This preparation is too DE SOJA soJA -- This Soya in the the home, home, and needs needs industrial complicated to be be made made in equipment. The'vegetarian appearance of cooked ham. The 'vegetarian meat' has the appearance hors-deuvre.ltIt may be eaten It is used in sandwiches and for hors-d'œuvre. cold or reheated. milk. LAIT DE SOJA soJA -- Name mixture of cooking Soya milk. Name for the mixture of cooking pur6e ofsoya liquor of soya beans fermentation. beans before before fermentation. liquor and purée sAUcE, EXTRAIT EXTRAIT DE SOJA soJA -- Eastern Eastern Soya sauce or extract. SAUCE, peoples use soya in in the the forro form of this condiment, condiment, which peoples use soya of this heightens the flavour of various dishes. A few few drops of the heightens vegetable soup makes it more more savoury. It is extract added to a vegetable strengthen sauces and stews, and as an addition also used to strengthen to salad dressings. cheese-- See CHEESE. Soya cheese

SOUVAROY SOUV AROV -- Petit-four Petit-four for which the recipe is as follows: (l* lb., 5 cups) sifted cake flour, g. (Ii Make Make a paste with 600 g. (l4oz., a00g. cup)sugarand g. (14 oz., 1lf;cups)butter,200g.(7 i cups) butter, 200 g. (7 oz., 11 cup) sugar and a 400 cream. Allow to rest. Roll Roll out thinly. thinly. Cut out with a little cream. to rest. sheet and pastry cutter with fluted edges, place on a baking sheet cook in a fairly hot oyen. oven. of pastry together two by two, spread Sandwich the pieces of Sandwich apricot jam and sprinkle with icing sugar. with thick apricotjam with

(i U) SOUVAROV or SOUVOROV SOUVOROV (À SOUV AROV or LA) -- Sometimes Sometimes spelt preparing The name describes aa method Souwaroff. name describes method of Souwaroff. The of preparing game birds. poultry and game bird cooked àd la is done in in an A bird la Souvarov is an earthenware withfoie gras and truffies, and sealed with a strip of casserole withfoie (See CHICKEN, Chicken round the dough round the lido lid. (See dough Chicken Souvarov; PHEASANT, PHEASANT, Pheasant àh la Souvarov.) rRUIE- Female SOW. TRUIEFemale pig. See PORK.

SOW-TIIISTLE (U.S. Milkweed). Milkweed). LAlTERON SOW-THISTLE LATTERoN -- Plant which It has something of the flavour of both lettuce and chicory. It contains a milky substance. somewhat leathery, but after boiling in salt water can It is somewhat prepared like spinach. spinach. When When the leaves are tender tender they be prepared they can salads. be used in salads. prepared in the same way as winter the roots are eaten, prepared In winter black and white salsify. Plant of the Leguminosae famrly, a SOYA BEAN. SOJA Leguminosae family, soJA -- Plant China, now now widely widely cultivated. cultivated. This This plant has the native of China, grows pests, and grows of being being free from attack from insect pests, merit of

SPAGHETTI -- One of the most Italian pasta SPAGHETTI most popular of Italian products. It is made from wheat, like macaroni, but is solid, (q.v.) are preparing macaroni (q.v.) not tubular. Ali All methods of preparing not spaghetti. applicable to spaghetti. Spaghetti Spaghetti ài la napolitaine napolitaine -- Cook the spaghetti spaghetti in plenty of 1| teaspoons teaspoons to to 1I boiling water, salted in the proportion of 11 (l|i pints, generous quart). litre (1 to 12 minutes) drain it, As soon as the pasta is cooked (9 to replace in the saucepan and hold over over the heat for a moment to dry off excess moisture. Season with salt and pepper and shaking the spaghetti, 1 I dl. (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, 1 add, shaking I cup) thick (see SAUCE), 25 g. (1 sauce (see 25 g. cup) grated Tomato Tomato sauce oz., i cup) 0 oz., Gruydre mixed, and 50 g. (2 oz., Parmesan and Gruyère oz.,*i cup) butter, (5 oz., pasta. Shake well to mix and g. (5 every 150 g. o2.,11 cup) pasta. for every accompany meat or poultry. serve, or use to accompany

Sow-thistle: Sow-thistle: a. Flower: Rav floret a. Flower; b. b. Ray

INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. SPAIN -- See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY.

liquid carbon ampoule containing !iquid SPARKLET SPARKLET -- Small Small ampoule with which dioxide, with which effervescent drinks can be dioxide, be made. made. (See SIPHON.) SPARKLING. uousseux This term term described described ail all wines SPARKLING. MOUSSEUX - This that, after second fermentation, fermentation, effervesce effervesce when poured. The French describe describe the the various various degrees degrees of French of effervescence as perlant, pttillant, is the crtmant and and mousseux. moussezx. Champagne is pétillant, crémant described as mousseux. only effervescent wine that is never described Several methods methods are are employed employed for for making making sparkling sparkling Several wines: wines: rurale -- In it isis the M6thode rurale In this this case, case, it the natural Méthode natural sugar fermentation which, fermentwine after first fermentation remaining in the wine (Gaillac, ing again in in the causes the i!lg the effervescence (Gaillac, the bottles, causes Clairette de Die). Blanquette de Limoux, Clairette perfected M6thode champenoise Méthode champenoise -- So called because because it was perfected Champagne by Dom Dom Pérignon P6rignon and his successors. successors. It is the in Champagne 'liqueur' that to the 'still' wine addition addition to the 'still' wine of of sugar-based sugar-based 'liqueur' produces the second fermentation fermentation in the bottle. This method produces involves a whole series of subsidiary operations: operations: working of cork (remuage), extraction extraction of the deposit down towards the cork

Soya: a. Flower; b. Pods

889 (P/rol. Nicolas) Nicolas) Trout in aspic (Phal.

SPATULA SPATULA

the sediment-coated sediment-coated cork (digorgement),etc. cork (dégorgement), (See etc. (See the CHAMPAGNE,The Tftewine wineof ofChampagne). Champagne). CHAMPAGNE, M6thodp de la cuve cloce-- Instead Insteadof of the thesecond secondfermenfermenMéthod~ de la cuve close place in the bottles, it is carried out in enormous tation taking taking place tation in the bottles, it is carried out in enormous vats. ItIt isis illegal illegal inin France France to to employ employthis this method methodininthe the vats. production of A.O.C. wines. production of A.O.c. wines. There isis also also méthode mithode de premidrefermentation de lala première used fermentalioz used There mainly in in Italy Italy for for Asti. Asti. This Thissingle single fermentation fermentation process process isis mainly achieved by retaining part part of by retaining ofthe gasproduced carbonic gas produced by by the carbonic achieved ,allemande'second the fermenting fermenting must. must. With With the the méthode mtthode 'allemande' second the fermentation takes placein takes place in the the bottles bottles but but the the wine wine isis then then fermentation decanted into into large large vats vats to processed and to be beprocessed (omitting and filtered filtered(omitting decanted the operations operations of of remuage remuage and and dégorgement). digorgement'). the .sparkFinally, there there are are sorne some very very inferior inferior commercial commercial 'sparkFinally, ling'processes involving the use gas. of carbonic ling' processes involving the use of carbonic gas. SPATLJLA. SPATULEspATr.lLE- Kitchen Kitchen utensil utensil made made of of steel, steel, copper copper SPATULA. wood. or wood. or

Method.Pound Pound these theseingredients ingredients ininaamortar mortarand andmix mixthem them Method. thoroughly.Rub Rub through throughaafine finesieve. sieve.Keep Keepinintightlytightlythoroughly. stoppered bottles. bottles. stoppered (Car6me'srecipe). Mixed spices spices(Carême's recipe).ÉPICES frrcns COMPOSÉES corvrposfns- -'Dry Mixed 'Dry inin theoyen ovenor oraahot hotcupboard: cupboard: thyme, thyme,bay bayleaves, leaves, basil, basil,sage, sage,a a the little coriander coriander and andmace. mace. When When these theseingredients ingredients are perareperlittle poundininaamortar fectlydry, dry, pound mortarand andsieve sievethem. them.Add Addaathird thirdofof fectly pepper. Put finepepper. Putthem themininaabox boxwith with aatightly tightlyfitting fittinglid lidininaadry dry fine placeand anduse useas asrequired.' required.' place (commercial).QUATRE Mixeilspices spices (commercial). fprcEs, ÉPICES fprcnsFINES FrNBs- Mixed euArRE ÉPICES, grocerssell Most grocers sellmixed mixedspices spices ready prepared. ready prepared. Most (srr)- - Spiced salt. ÉPICE Spiced salt. 6plcs (SEL) Spicedsalt salt used usedfor forflavouring flavouring Spiced stuffings isis made made with with 100 100g.g. (4(4 oz., oz.,-t* cup) cup) table table salt, salt, 22 stuffings tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) pepper pepper and and 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons tablespoons) Fine Fine spices. spices. tablespoons) SPICY. EXCITANT ExcIrANr - - Spicy Spicy foods foods are are those those which which are arestrongly SPICY. strongly flavoured with with condiments condiments or or which which have haveaavery pronounced very pronounced flavoured flavour. Spicy Spicy foods foods act act upon upon t};le thetaste taste buds inthe budsin themouth flavour. mouth and and juices. gastric juices. stimulate the the gastric stimulate

place on the kitchen table, (Belgian pastry) SPECLTLOS (BeIgian pasfry) -- Place SPECULOS on the kitchen table, place in forming aa circle, (18 oz., circle, 500 g. (18 500 g. oz.,4tcups) sifted flour. flour. Place forming 41 cups) sifted in the centre of of the the circle circle aa small pinch of small pinch of salt, salt, 1I teaspoon teaspoon the centre bicarbonate of of soda, soda, 22 teaspoons teaspoons powdered powdered cinnamon, cinnamon, 33 bicarbonate finely crushed eggs, 44 finely crushed cloves, (ll oz., cloves, 300 g. (11 300 g. oz., 11 lj cups) cups) brown brown eggs, sugar and g. (9 (9 oz., and 250 250 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) butter. butter. Mix Mix these these sugar ingredients weil well together together and, and, little little by by !ittle, little, incorporate incorporate the the ingredients flour. Press Press the the dough dough together together and and leave leave in in aa cool place until cool place until flour. the next next day. day. the Divide the the dough dough into into several several pieces. pieces. Roll Roll out piece each piece out each Divide press into floured wooden moulds. Turn out on to lightly and press and iuto floured wooden moulds. Tum out on to lightly buttered baking baking sheets. sheets. Cook Cook in in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. buttered

(Alssfan cookery) SPETZLI (Alsatian cookery) -- Mix (18 oz., together 500 g. (18 Mix together 500 g. oz., 41 SPETZLI $ cups) sifted sifted flour, flour, 44 eggs, eggs, 22 to to 33 tablespoons tablespoons double double cream, cups) pepper salt, pinch grated nutmeg. and aa pinch of of grated nutmeg. salt, pepper and Using spatula, drop pieces of drop pieces paste into of this this paste pan of into aa pan of Using a a spatula, salted boiling boiling water, water, each piece being each piece being about about the the size size of aa smaU small salted walnut. Poach. Drain the spetzli, spetdi, dry dry them them on aa cloth cloth and toss walnut. Poach. Drain the them pan. frying pan. them in in butter butter in in the the frying Serve in sprinkled with (see with Noisette butter butter (see Serve in aa deep deep dish, dish, sprinkled BUTTER, but ter s). BUTTER, Compound Compound butters).

Spider crab crab Spider

pu MER SPIDER CRAB. ARAIGNÉE lnlrcNfr DE given in MsR -- Name SPIDER Name given in France France to to various species species of of sheUfish shellfish allied allied to various to crabs. crabs. For For culinary culinarv preparation see CRAB. preparation spider crab is also commonly The name of spider given in commonly given in many many places in coastal places in France France to coastal to certain certain fish fish belonging to to the the genus. weever genus.

SPICE. pepper, such as as pepper, SPI CE. fBlcr ÉPICE - An An aromatic aromatic substance substance such cloves, cornplete cloyes, etc., etc., used used to to season season culinary culinary preparations. preparations. A complete list spices is list of ofspices is given given under under CONDIMENTS. CONDIMENTS. ItIt is is generally generally agreed agreed that that most most spices spices and and condiments condiments used in cookery have have the the effect effect of of stimulating stimutating the the gastric gastric juices. juices. in cookery However However the the use use of of spices, spices, especially especially in in large quantities, quantities, in diets for persons persons suffering suffering from from stomach stomach disorders is gengendiets for erally erally regarded regarded as as inadvisable. inadvisable.

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Wooden SPIGOT. FossEr FOSSET -- Wood en vent-peg vent-peg inserted inserted into the hole drilled in a wine drilled wine cask to enable the wine to be tasted.

SPIKENARD. SPIKENARD. Nmo NARD -- A A spice, spice, very very much much in in favour favour in in ancient times as as an ointment, and and in the the Middle Ages Ages as as aa condiment. condiment. It It is still still so used in Malaysian Malaysian cookery. Indian jatamansi) is the root ofa Indian spikenard (Nardostachys (Nardostachysjatamansi) of a Far-Eastern Far-Eastern species species of of valerian, from which the above spice was derived. American American spikenard (Aralia racemosa) has has aa powerful powerful and and pleasant pleasant fragrance, fragrance, and and a a bitter bitter aromatic aromatic

The The function function of of tasty tasty substances, substances, which which enhance enhance the

flavour food, isis not flavour of offood, not to to act act directly directly on on the the gastric gastric juices, juices, but to to stimulate stimulate the the digestive digestive processes processes by by reflexes reflexes following foUowing their their contact contact with with the the taste taste buds. buds. In In the the seventeenth seventeenth century, cent ury, says says Franklin, Franklin, spices spices were were not not used used in in excess excess to to quite quite the the same same extent extent as as in in previous previous centuries, but the the passion passion for for perfumes perfumes which which poisoned poisoned the the centuries, but French French court court from from the the sixteenth sixteenth century century up up to to the the middle middle of of the the reign reign of of Louis Louis XIV XIV did did not not even even respect respect stews, stews, pastries, pas tries, liqueurs, liqueurs, etc. etc. Orris-root, Orris-root, rose rose water water and and marjoram marjoram were were all aU mixed mixed into into them them and and the thechef chefalways always had had musk musk and and ambergris ambergris at at hand. hand. ,Nulles', Green Green walnuts walnuts were were flavoured flavoured with with rose rose water. water. 'Nulles', aa type typeof ofcream, cream, was wasseasoned seasoned with with amber amber and and musk. musk. pdt6s Pâtés and pies pies were were flavoured flavoured with with musk. musk. Eggs Eggs were were sprinkled sprinkled with with scented soot! scented waters. waters. Some Sorne dishes dishes were were even even sprinkled sprinkled with with soot! Fine Fine spices. spices. fprcrs ÉPICES FrNEs FINES -- Ingredients. Ingredients. T00 700 e. g. (l+ (1t lb., lb., 5+ 5t cups) cups) white white pepper. pepper. 300 300g. g. (t(IIl oz., oz., 2f 2icups) cups) allspice, aUspice, iOO 100 g, g. (+ (4 oz., seant cup) cup) mace, mace, 50 50 g. g. (2 (2 oz., oz., $-t cup) cup) each each of of nutmeg, nutmeg, oz., scant cloves, cloyes,cinnamon, cinnamon,bay bayleaves, leaves, sage, sage, marjoram, marjoram, and and rosemary. rosemary.

flavour. flavour.

SPINACII. SPINACH. fptwlnps ÉPINARDS -- Pot Pot vegetable vegetable of Persian origin, cultivated cultivated for for its its leaves. leaves. It It was unknown unknown to the Romans and transplanted transplanted to to Europe Europe by by the the Moors. It has been greatly greatly improved improved by by cultivation. cultivation. Spinach Spinach contains con tains a viscous subsubstance stance by by virtue virtue of of which which it it has has laxative laxative properties. properties. It It also also contains contains potassium potassium oxalate oxalate and and aa fair fair amount amount of ofiron (though iron (though less less than than sorrel, sorrel, Ieek leek and and lettuce). lettuce). Before spinach must must be be stripped, stripped, carefully carefully Before cooking, cooking, spinach washed and parboiled parboiled as as quickly quickly as as possible possible in in boiling boiling salted salted washed and water. under running running water, water, drain drain thoroughly, thoroughly, squeeze squeeze water. Cool Cool under to to extract extract all ail moisture, moisture, and and rub rub through through aa sieve sieve or or chop ch op it. it. Do Do not not cool cool under under running running water water ififspinach spinach isis to to be be served served whole. whole. IfIf fresh fresh garden garden spinach spinach isis used, used, strip, strip, wash wash and and place place in in aa 890 890

SPD.IY SPINY LOBSTER LOBSTER Spinach Spinach can can also aIso be be prepared prepared in in this this way way by by adding adding aa few few tablespoons SAUCE, Compound Compound white white tablespoons Creatn Cream sauce sauce (se (see SAUCE, sauces) sauces) after after cooking cooking in in butter. butter. in gravy. Spinach Spinacbin gravy. fplNlnps ÉPINARDS AU AU rus JUS -- Blanch Blanch and and drain drain the the spinach. spinach. Chop Chop or or rub rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Cook Cook in in butter butter until until all aIl moisture of con' conmoisture has has evaporated. evaporated. Add Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of dish and centrated centrated veal veal stock, stock, season, season, serve serve in in a a deep deep dish and surround surround with with concentrated concentrated veal veal gravy. gravy. Spinach Spinacb pancakes. pancakes. cnEpns CRÊPES lux AUX 6plN^1ru>s ÉPINARDS - Blanch Blanch and and drain drain the the spinach spinach and and dry dry itit in in aa cloth. cloth. Chop Chop finely finely and and simmer simmer in in butter. butter. Add Add an an equal equal quantity quantity of of Savoury Savoury crdpe crêpe batter and nutmeg. nutmeg. batter (see (see CREPE). CRÊPE). Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and Mix Mix thoroughly. thoroughly . Make Make pancakes pancakes in in the the usual usual way. way. lns n'fprNARDs Spinach SALADE D'ÉPINARDS -- Plunge Plunge spinach spinach into into Spinacb salad. saJad. slt boiling boiling water water for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Cool Cool under under running running water, water, drain, drain, dry dry in in a a cloth. cloth . Put Put in in a a salad salad bowl, bowl, sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs, eggs, dress dress with with oil, oil, vinegar, vinegar, salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Spinach Spinacb sorff6 souftlé - See See SOUFFLES, SOUFFLÉS, Savoury Savoury soufiAs. soufflés. Spinach Spinacb subrics. subrics. sLJBRIcs SUBRICS D'fPIN.mos D'ÉPINARDS - Parboil Parboil whole whole spinach quickly quickly in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. Drain Drain and and dry dry in in aa cloth. cloth. Cook Cook in in butter butter until until all ail moisture moisture has has evaporated. evaporated. Take Take the the pan pan off off the the heat heat and and add, add, for for 500 500 g. g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) lb.) spinach, spinach, l+ I-} dl. dl. (1 (t pint, pint, J ~ cup) cup) thick thick Bhchorcl Béchamel sauce sauce (ree (see SAUCE), I1 whole SAUCE), whole egg, egg, 33 yolks yolks beaten beaten as as for for an an omelette, omelette, and and Season with 22 or or 33 tablespoons tablespoons double double cream. cream. Season with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and nutmeg. nutmeg. Mix. Mix. pan and clarified butter Heat Heat clarified butter in in aa frying frying pan and pour pour the the mixture mixture at aa time. into time. Fry, Fry, taking taking care care that that the the szDrics subrics into it, it, aa spoonful spoonful at another in separated from are are separated from one one another in the the pan pan to to prevent prevent them them from sticking sticking together. from together. cream. Serve with Serve with cream. and drain drain Parboil and with sugar. sugrr.fprNlnps r,u SUCREsucns- Parboil Spinach witb Spinacb ÉPINARDS AU until ail all moisture moisture Dry in in aa c1oth. in butter butter until spinach. Dry cloth. Cook Cook in the spinach. the in aa dish dish into aa dome dome in lightly. Shape Shape into has evaporated. evaporated. Sweeten Sweeten Iightly. has cut with fried fried bread bread cut with hot hot fresh fresh cream. cream. Garnish Garnish with and coyer cover with and sponge-finger shapes. into sponge-finger . .

"English" "English" spinach spinach

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Large-leaf Large-Ieaf

"Viroflay" "Viroflay" spinach spinach

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saucepan. For For 500 g. (generous (generous I1 lb.) spinach add add 40 40 g. (U (1 t saucepan. tablespoons) butter, butter, 33 tablespoons tablespoons (scant (seant t cup) cup) water water oz., 33 tablespoons)

Coyer and cook rapidly. When all aIl the and a pinch of salt. Cover OZ., ] cup) cup) butter. butter. moisture has has evaporated, evaporated, add 50 g. (2 oz., moisture Spinach ià Panglaise. l'anglaise. fplNmps ÉPINARDS A À t'exctltss L'ANGLAISE -- Parboil Parboil the Spinach spinach rapidly in boiling sdted in a salted water. Drain and dry in cloth. cloth. Serve Serve whole whole in a hot hot dish, with fresh butter. butter. Spinach ÉPINARDS AU AU BzuRRE BEURRE - Whole. Whole. Heat a Spinach in butter. fpIN.mos spinach, parboiled, little butter butter in a pan. Add Add the spinach, parboiled, drained and little dried in aa cloth. Leave on the the stove for a few few minutes to dried salt, pepper Season with salt, all moisture. Season evaporate ail pepper and a pinch spinach is dry, add the butter, of nutmeg. When the spinach butter, allowing of nutmeg. 100 g. (4 OZ., oz., j cup) butter to 500 g. (generous I1 lb., 2 cups) spinach. cooked spinach. running water. spinach. Cool Cool under running Chopped. Parboil the spinach. moisture much moi Drain and and squeeze out as mucb sture as possible. possible. Chop coarsely coarsely and proceed as above. Cool under under running water. Parboil the the spinach. spinach. Cool Purie. Parboil Purée. through a sieve and proceed as Drain and dry in a cloth. Rub through above. BEURRE NoISETTE AU BEURRE fptN,lRps AU Spinach in noisette butter. ÉPINARDS NOISETTEprepared spinacb, spinach, heat sieved prepared whole, chopped chopped or or sieved Using Using whole, the Add the pan until in colour. colour. Add nut brown brown in in aa pan until itit isis nut butter in Mix nutmeg. Mix Season with salt, salt, pepper and aa pinch of nutmeg. spinach spinach.. Season and serve. serve. spinach r.l CRÈME Chop the spinach fprN,mos À A LA cniw -- Chop Spinach in cream. creanr. ÉPINARDS Spinacb all the moisture sieve. Cook Cook in butter. butter. When ail or rub through through aa sieve. or rub dish and and in aa deep deep dish cream.. Serve Serve in add fresh fresh cream has has evaporated, evaporated, add surround with hot fresh fresh cream. cream. surround with sauce way with with Cream Cream sauce served in in this this way also be be served can also Spinach Spinach can cream. (see SA instead of of ffresh sauces) instead (see U CE, Compound white sauces) resh cream. SAUCE, Compoundwhite Make the the lux ÉPrNARDS fprNenps -- Make croquettes. CROQUEITES cRoeuETTEt AUX Spinacb Spinach croquettes. twofollowing mixture: mixture: twoin the way using using the the following the usual usual way croquettes croquettes in one-third in butter and one-third chopped spinach cooked in butter and spinach cooked thirds chopped thirds (see POTATOES). potato mixture POTATOES). mixture (see Duchess Duchess potato just before Drain them. them. GarGarthe croquettes croquettes just before serving. serving. Drain Fry the Fry parsley. with fried fried parsley. nish nish with Aux gratin. CROÛTES cRATIN6ES AUX au gratin. cRoOrEs GRATINÉES Crottes of of spinacb spinach au Croo.tes Fry cases. Fry into deep deep hollow hollow cases. sandwich bread bread into fprN.mos -- Shape Shape sandwich ÉPINARDS in aa dome, dome, heaped up up in in butter. butter. Fill Fill with with spinach spinach heaped them in them (see below). gratin (see with prepared as Sprinkle with as for for Spinach au gratin below). Sprinkle Spinach au prepared hot grated cheese. in aa hot melted butter and brown brown in cheese. Pour Pour on on melted butter and grated oyen. oven. dry gratin. ÉPrNARDS Parboil and and dry Spinach au augratin. fprNmos AU Au GRATIN cRATIN-- Parboil Spinacb (generous 1I lb.) g. (generous leave Chop or or leave lb.) spinach spinach.. Chop thoroughly 500 500 g. thorougbly (3 (4OZ., g.(4 75 g. cup) butter. butter. Add Add 75 oz., 1-* cup) whole. Simmer Simmer with with 100 100 g. whole. e. (3 place in grated cheese. in aa buttered buttered a,tp) grated cheese. Season Season and and place oz., ~ cup) OZ., grated cheese, pour generously with cheese, pour dish,sprinkle with grated ovenware dish, sprinkle generously ovenware in the the oYen. on on melted melted butter, butter, and and brown brown in oven.

t

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t

DU ctANrs DU MEXICAN. ÉPINARDS tprNmos GÉANTS SPINACII, GIANT GIANT MEXICAN. SPINACH, is more shrub which which is more This vegetable vegetable derives derives from from aa shrub MExIeuE -- This MEXIQUE (2cr (7 feet) plant yields yields from from 1I to to li l*kg. feet) taU tall.. One One plant than2.25m. than 2·25 m. (7 kg. (2* (7 to to 99 inches) inches) 23 cm. cm. (7 from 18 l8 to to 23 leaves, each each from lb.) fleshy fleshy leaves, to 3t 3+ lb.) to long. and that of of spinach spinach and is between leaves is between that flavour of of these these leaves The flavour The sorrel. sorret. the One of of the rtrucoNB -- One ZEALAI\D. TÉTRAGONE NEW ZEALAND. SPINACII, NEW SPINACH, having been been brought brought New Zealand, Zealanid, having vegetables of of New indigenous vegetables indigenous thick, It has has long, long, thick, Cook. It Captain Cook. that country country by by Captain from that back from back prepared pleasant taste, are prepared which are taste, which leaves with with aa pleasant whitish-green leaves whitish-green spinach.. ordinary spinach like ordinary like KING See GOOD GOOD KING sAUvAcE -- See tpnnno SAUVAGE WILD. SPINACII, SPINACH, WILD. ÉPINARD HENRY. HENRY.

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with aa spiny spiny Cn$tacean with LOBSTER. LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -- Crustacean SPINY LOBSTER. SPINY yellow markings the markings on on the greenish-brown in with yellow in col colour, shell, greenish-brown shell, our, with more body, more Its oblong oblong body, with two two long long antennae. antennae. Its and with tail and tail shell into 66 shell divided into lobster, isis divided the lobster, than that that of of the barrel-shaped than barrel-shaped plates and fan-shaped tail. tail. ends in in aa fan-shaped and ends plates their legs legs do, and and their as lobsters lobsters do, have no no c1aws, claws, as lobsters have Spiny lobsters Spiny to from 30 30 to vary in in length length from They vary same size size and and shape. shape. They all the the same are ail are 12to20 inches).. cm.( 50 cm 50 .( 12 to 20 inches) in the the numbers in in large large numbers are tn tn be found in lobsters are be found Spiny lobsters Spiny have lobsters have Moroccan lobsters and the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. Moroccan Atlantic and Atlantic are known known market. They They are way into into the the continental continental market. found their their way found in similar in shellfish isissimilar royal. This Tbis shellfisb the Langouste Langouste royal. France as as the in France in coast, except except French coast, caught off offthe thespiny spiny lobsters lobsters caught shape to to the shape the French quality. flatter. ItIt isisof ofexcellent excellent quality. somewhat flatter. its body body isissomewhat that its that lobster, Martinique10 lobster, the the Martinique variety of ofspiny spiny lobster, Another variety Another bster, isis

I

891 891

SPINY LOBSTER LOBSTER SPINY

To

cut open a spiny lobster, begin with the tail. Then split open the head and To cut open a spiny lobster, begin with the taïl. Then split open the head and (Larousse\ thorax (Larousse) thorax

also sold frozen in French fish shops. These are very prolific also sold frozen in French fish shops. These are very prolific in the West Indian Ocean and in the coastal waters of South Ocean and in the coastal waters of South in the West lndian America. America. Spiny lobster i I'am6ricaine. L,c,Ncousrs A r'AM6nrc,q.rNe Spiny lobster à l'américaine. LANGOUSTE À L'AMÉRICAINE -Proceed asfor Lobster d I'amiricaine (see LOBSTER). Proceed as for Lobster à l'américaine (see LOBSTER). Spiny lobster aspic. ,l.srrc DE LANGousre - proceed as for Spiny lobster aspic. ASPIC DE LANGOUSTE - Proceed as for Lobster aspic (see LOBSTER). Lobster aspic (see LOBSTER). Boiled spiny lobster lobster witb with various various sauces. sauces. LANGOUSTE LANc,ousrE Boiled spiny BourLLrE Boil the spiny lobster in a court-bouillon, court-bouillon, as as for for BOUILLIE -- Boil the spiny lobster in a Boiled lobster (see LOBSTER). Boi/ed lobster (see LOBSTER). Serve hot, with a sauce suitable for poached or boiled fish Serve hot, with a sauce suitable for poached or boiled fish or shellfish. Serve cold, with mayonnaise or some other cold or shellfish. Serve cold, with mayonnaise or sorne other cold sauce. sauce. Spiny lobster i la bordelaise. LANGousrE A ra soRDrr.ArsE Spiny lobster à la bordelaise. LANGOUSTE À LA BORDELAISE -Proceed asfor Lobster d la bordelaise (see LOBSTER). Proceed as for Lobster à la bordelaise (see LOBSTER). Spiny lobster i la bourgeoise (Italian cookery). LANcousrE Spiny lobster à la bourgeoise (Italian cookery). LANGOUSTE A r.^c. souncEorsE Take a spiny spiny lobster approxÀ LA BOURGEOISE -- Take a lobster weighing weighing approximately 100 to 800 g. ( U to l* lb.). Scrub it under running cold imately 700 to 800 g. (1 to Ii lb.). Scrub it under running cold water. Cut into slices as for Lobster d I'amiricatni (see water. Cut into slices as for Lobster à l'américaine (see LOBSTER). Set aside the coral and the creamy parts of the LOBSTER). Set aside the coral and the creamy parts of the lobster. lobster. Place 500 g. (generous I lb.) peeled, chopped and deseeded Place 500 g. (generous 1 lb.) peeled, chopped and deseeded tomatoes, 2 medium sliced onions, I clove garlic, I a bay leaf, tomatoes,2 medium sliced onions, 1 clove garlic, a bay leaf, I1 sprig of thyme, thyme, and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped chopped parsley parsley in in aa sprig of shallow buttered pan. shallow buttered pan. Lay the slices ofspiny lobster on these vegetables. Season Lay the slices of spiny lobster on these vegetables. Season with salt and pepper. with salt and pepper. Pour Pour on on 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) olive oil, a glass of white wine, a small glass of Marsali and a olive oil, a glass of white wine, a small glass of Marsala and a small glass of brandy. smaU glass of brandy. Cover, and bring to the boil. Boil for 20 minutes. Take out Cover, and bring to the boil. Boil for 20 minutes. Take out the lobster, and arrange it in a dish. Boil down the sauce, if the lobster, and arrange it in a dish. Boil down the sauce, if n€cessary. Thicken it with the chopped coral, add I teaspoon necessary. Thicken it with the chopped coral, add 1 teaspoon chopped parsley and a pinch ofcayenne pepper. Bring to the chopped parsley and a pinch of cayenne pepper. Bring to the boil and pour boil and pour over over the the dish. dish. Spiny lobcter butter. BEURRE DE LANGousrs - Made from Spiny lobster butter. BEURRE DE LANGOUSTE - Made from the shells and trimmings of the spiny lobster which have been the shells and trimmings of the spiny lobster which have been cooked in court-bouillon. Pound, these thoroughly. Add an cooked in court-bouillon. Pound these thoroughly. Add an equal weight of butter. Rub through a sieve. equal weight of butter. Rub through a sieve. Spiny lobster cardinal. LANGousrE cARDTNAL - Boil the Spiny lobster cardinal. LANGOUSTE CARDINAL - Boil the spiny lobster in a court-bouillon. Drain, split in two lengthspiny lobster in a court-bouillon. Drain, split in two lengthwise and reserve the shell halves. Remove the flesh fromlhe wise and reserve the sheIl halves. Remove the flesh from the tail and cut tail and cut itit into into 66 to to 88 slices. slices. Dice Dice the the rest rest of of the the spiny spiny lobster flesh and place in a pan. Add diced mushrooms-and lobster flesh and place in a pan. Add diced mushrooms and truffies and bind with Bhchamel sauce (see SAUCE) with truffles and bind with Béchamel sauce (see SAUCE) with cream added. Simmer down, blend with Spiny lobster butter cream added. Simmer down, blend with Spiny lobster butter (see butter) and strain. (see butter) and strain. Heat this salpicon without letting it come to the boil. Fill Heat this salpicon without letting it come to the boil. Fill the halves of the shell with it. Decorate the top of each shell the halves of the shell with it. Decorate the top of each shell with lobster slices alternating with strips of trufre. Cover with with lobster slices altemating with strips oftruffle. Co ver with btchamel sauce to which spiny lobster butter has been added. béchamel sauce to which spiny lobster butter has been added. Sprinkle with grated cheese. pour on melted butter. Sprinkle with grated cheese. Pour on melted butter.

Place the the halves halves ofspiny of spiny lobster lobster in in aa baking baking tin. tin. Brown Brown in in aa Place very hot hot oven garnish with oven and and garnish parsley. with parsley. very Collope of of spiny spiny lobster lobster ài l'andalouse. I'andalouse. ESCALOPES EscALopEs DE DE Collops LANGoUSTE À A L'ANDALOUSE L'ANDALoUSE -- Cook Cook aa spiny spiny lobster lobster in in courtcourtLANGOUSTE bouillon and and leave leave to to cool. cool. Shell. Shell. Cut Cut the the tail tail into into 10 l0 thick thick bouillon slices. Coat Coat these these with with Chaud-froid (see SAUCE) Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE) and and aa slices. pur6e of peppers and red peppers of red jelly. Chill and truffles. truffies. Glaze Glaze with with jeUy. Chill on on purée ice. ice. Make aa salad salad with with the the rest rest of the the lobster meat, meat, coarsely Make chopped, diced diced truffles, peeled, cooked and trufles, peeled, and diced green and chopped, peppers, red pep and diced potatoes. Season diced potatoes. Season with paprika red pers, and paprika and stir in mayonnaise jelly. mayonnaise mixed with thick jelly. in Make aa dome dome ofthis of this salad in the centre ofa of a dish. This This must Make be done as as soon soon as as the saI salad otherwise it will set ad is seasoned, otherwise be done too hard. hard. too Surround the the salad salad with as as many Tomato mousselines (see mousselines (see Surround TOMATO) as as there are spiny spiny lobster TOMATO) there are lobster slices. put Put a a spiny lobster slice slice on on top top of of each each mould. mould. Make Make a border border of of chopped lobster jelly. of the salad jelly. Decorate Decorate the the top top of salad with lettuce hearts and quartered quartered hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs. eggs. Collops Collops of of spiny spiny lobster lobster d à la la parisienne. parisienne. EscALopEs ESCALOPES DE DE p.q.msrnNNn LANGousrE LANGOUSTE A À r-a LA PARISIENNE -- Cook Cook a spiny lobster lobster in courtbouillon. Leave to to cool. Shell. Cut Cut the tail into slices. Cover Cover bouillon. Leave with Jellied with Jellied mayonnaise mayonnaise (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Mayonnaise Mayonnaise sauce, sauce, thick). Decorate with with truffies truffles and and carrots carrots shaped shaped with aa small thick). Decorate ball-scoop. in the rerebali-scoop. Glaze Glaze with with jelly. jelly. Chill Chill thoroughly thoroughly in frigerator. frigerator. Arrange Arrange in in aa circle circle round round aa Parisian Parisian salad salad (see (see SALAD) seasoned seasoned with with jelly jelly mayonnaise mayonnaise and and made made into into aa dome dome in in the the centre of aa dish. dish. centre of Decorate Decorate with with slices slices of of hard-boiled hard-boiled egg egg and and jelly. jelly. In In the the centre ofthe the dish dish place place aa lettuce lettuce heart heart decorated decorated with with aa hardhardcentre of boiled boiled egg. egg.

t

t

Collops Collopsofspiny of spinylobster lobs terd àI'andalouse l'andalouse

892 892

LOBSTER SPINY LOBSTER SPINY

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lengthwise, shell shell itit Split itit lengthwise, spiny lobster in in aa court-bouillon. Split cardinal. as for Spiny lobster cardinal. and cut it it up as (see sauce (see diced flesh with thick thick Béchamel Bbchamel sauce Mix Mix the the diced flesh with an equal equal Add to to the the salpicon salpicon an butter added. added. Add SAUCE) with with butter quantity of cooked mushrooms. quantity of diced, cooked Arrange the the with the the salpicon. salpicon Arrange of the shell with Fill Fill the halves of sauce. Sprinkle remainder of the sa Cover with the remainder slices on top. Coyer uce. Sprinkle pour on melted butter and and brown. with grated cheese, pour Proceed as as for for loboter. LANGOUSTE LANGousre GRILLÉE cmllfr -- Proceed Grilled spiny lobster. (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). lob ster (see G r illed lobster Grilled MoRNAY -- Another Another Mornay. LANGOUSTE LANcousrE MORNAY lobster Mornay. Spiny lobster Spioy name for Spiny lobster au gratin. rl, MOSCOVITE uoscovlTr -LANGousrE ÀA LA la moscovite. LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster ài la Spioy cool in aa court-bouillon. Leave itit to to cool spiny lobster in court-bouillon. Leave Boil aa large spiny (l| inches) inches) incisions 44 cm. cm. (lt in the stock and and drain. drain. Make Make 22 incisions the stock in part of shell of the the shell in the shell. Remove Remove the the part lengthwise in the shell. apart lengthwise apart to not to careful not tail, being cut otfthe offthe tail, being careful and cut between the incisions and part from from the the and the the creamy creamy part it. Remove ail all the the ftesh flesh and break it. lobster. of the lobster. body of potatoes and diced diced potatoes and diced flesh and to itit diced add to Dice the the flesh and add Dice (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Mayonnaise sauce sauce (see Season with with thick thick Mayonnaise trufres. Season truffles. with this this salado salad. Stuffthe shell shell with Cold sauces). Stutfthe Cold of aa into the the form form of slice of sandwich bread bread into Trim aa slice of buttered buttered sandwich Trim it. Place large oval oval lobster on on it. Place on on aa large and set set the the spiny spiny lobster wedge and wedge jelly. Chili in fish aspic aspic jelly. Chill in the dish dish with with very very c1ear clear fish dish. Gamish Garnish the dish. ice. refrigerator or or on on ice. the the refrigerator with white white Chaudlobster. Coat Coat with Chaudthe tail tail of of the the spiny spiny lobster. Slice the Slice (seeFUMET). (see SAUCE) FUMET). Fishfumel (see SAUCE) based based on on Fishfumet sauce (see froid froid sauce place aa strip quite set, top of of strip of of truffle trufle on on top sauce has has quite set, place When this sauce Wh en this g)aze withjelly. Chill. and glaze with jelly. ChilI. each slice and each slice at the the shell, starting starting at spiny lobster lobster shell, Arrange Arrange the the slices slices on on the the spiny head head and and overlapping. overlapping. garnish: Surround with the the following following garnish: Surround with (seeDOUGH), paste (see DOUGH), thin Lining Lining paste Very Very small small barquettes barquettes of of thin with eggsdecorated decorated with filled caviare, halved halved hard hard boiled boiledeggs filled with with caviare, jelly, small hearts strips small artichoke artichoke hearts with jelly, and glazed truffie and strips of of truffle $azed with jelly mayonnaise, with jelly mayonnaise, ûlled vegetable salad salad dressed dressed with filled with with vegetable lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. lobster, Run the spiny spiny lobster. the eyes eyes of of the skewer between between the Run aa skewer jelly and dish with with Decorate thedish and surround surround the with chopped chopped jelly Decorate with jelly cut pastry-cutter. Serve with rounds Serve with with aa pastry-cutter. of jelly cut out out with rounds of lobster. mayonnaise thespiny spiny lobster. sieved roe roeof ofthe mixedwith with the thesieved mayonnaise mixed may be be Instead thetop, top,ititmay lobsteralong along the thespiny spiny lobster Instead of ofslitting slitting the slit saladinstead instead lettuce salad with shredded shredded lettuce and filled filled with slit underneath, underneath,and of orbeetroot beetroot potato salado ofcucumber cucumber or salad.Small Small barquettes barquettes of of potato garnish. should thegarnish. addedto tothe samesalad saladand andadded filled with with the thesame should be befilled Spiny MoUSSELINE MoussE, MOUSSELINE mousseline. MOUSSE, mousse and andmousseline. lobster mousse Spiny lobster DE prepared ininthe same thesame coldand andprepared Servedhot hotor orcold LANcousre - - Served DELANGOUSTE mousselines (see way (seeLOBSTER). LOBSTER). Lobster mousse mousse and andmousselines wayas as Lobster Spiny This NAGE- - This LANAGE lobsterài lala nage. nage.LANGOUSTE LANcousrr ÀALA Spiny lobster method spiny preparation isisespecially forsmall smallspiny suitablefor of preparation especially suitable method of lobsters. for Lobster la nage (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). Lobster àdlanage(see Proceedasasfor lobsters. Proceed Spiny (cold). LANGOUSTE rnonnAALAL,c, LANcousrEFROIDE lobster ài lalaniçoise nigoise(cold). Spiny lobster N1ÇOISE Leavetoto court-bouillon. Leave Boilaaspiny spiny lobster lobster ininaacourt-bouillon. NrqoIsE - - Boil cool. partof fleshinto into1010 Cutpart ofthe theflesh andshell. shell.Cut Splitititlengthwise lengthwise and cool.Split slices rest. anddice dicethe therest. slicesand Add peas,French potatoes, peas, anddiced Frenchbeans diced beansand cooked diced diced potatoes, Addcooked jellied anchovy withjellied flesh.Mix Mixwith lobsterflesh. fillets totothe thediced diced lobster anchovy fillets mayonnaise. salad. withthis thissalado Fill the theshells shellswith mayonnaise. Fill Arrange top. theslices sliceson ontop. dish.Put Putthe theshell shellhalves halveson onaadish. Arrange the Coyer jellied mayonnaise with eachwith anddecorate decorateeach mayonnaise and withjellied Coverwith . rosettes leaves. tarragon Ieaves rosettesof oftarragon Decorate with stuffedwith dishwith withtomatoes tomatoesstutfed Decoratethe thesides sidesof ofthe thedish the cookedartichoke artichoke withcooked lobstersalad, salad,altemating alternatingwith spiny lobster thespiny hearts withFrench French lettuce,seasoned seasonedwith withshredded shreddedlettuce, filledwith hearts filled dressing At garnishedwith filletsand andcapers. capers.At anchovyfillets andgarnished withanchovy dressingand each eggsand and hard-boiledeggs arrangehalved halvedhard-boiled ofthe thedish disharrange eachend endof quartered quarteredlettuce lettuce hearts. hearts.

Collops ofspiny of spiny lobster lobster ài la parisienne Collops

CoquiUes of spiny lobster lobs ter (cold). (cold). COQUILLES LANcousrBcoetrtI.I,Es DE LANGOUSTECoquillesof Using spiny lobster, proceed as in scallop shells as for Lobster in Using (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). (cold) (cold') (see of spiny spioy lobster Coquilles of DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -lobster (hot). COQUILLES coquILLEs DE Coquiltes Prepare with lobsters cooked shelled inaa court-bouillon, shelled with spiny spiny lobsters cooked in Prepare and diced cut into small for Lobster Proceed as as for diced or cut and small slices. Proceed Mornay in LOBSTER). in scallop shells shells (see LOBSTER). Mornay Spiny lobs ter in AU COURTcouRTLANcousrE AU in court-bouillon. court-bouillon. LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster BOUILLON . Made with as for for Proceed as small spiny lobsters. lobsters. Proceed with small BouILLoN. Crayfish la nage (see YFISH). (see CRA hlanage CRAYFISH). Crayfish à Spiny A hot. A served hot. are usually served lobsters cooked cooked in this way are Spiny lobsters suitable served also be be served They can can also sauce is is served served separately separately.. They suitable sauce cold, in which case la lobster àh la are usually called called Spiny Spiny lobster case they they are nage (see below). below). nage (see Spiny as Proceed as cniue -- Proceed u CRÈME lobster in Le.Ncousrs ÀA LA in cream. cream. LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster for (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). Lobster in in cream ueam (see for Lobster Croquettes lobster. CROQUETTES, cRoQUErrEs, of spiny spiny lobster. kromeskies of Croquettes and and kromeskies CROMESQUIS any other other as for for any Proceed as DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE -- Proceed cRoMEseuls DE croquettes (see HORS-D'ŒUVRE, horsHot horsHORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot or kromeskis kromeskrs (see croquettes or

d'œuvre). duuvre). Curried cURRIE -AU CURRIE lobster. ÉTUVÉ 6ruvi DE DE LANGOUSTE LANGousrE AU spiny lobster. Curied spiny Sauté for Spiny slices as as for Sprny into slices lobsters, cut cut into in butter butter 22 spiny spiny lobsters, Saut6 in lobster (4 oz., g. (4 chopped oz., 1I cup) cup) chopped 100 g. Add 100 I'amtricaine. Add lobster àd l'américaine. oruon. pepper and curry to 22 teaspoons teaspoons curry and 1I to Season with with salt, salt, pepper onion. Season powder. powder. When (| golden colour, with 33 dl. dl. (t colour, moisten moisten with the slices slices are are aa golden When the pint, peeled garni and and 22 peeled wine. Add pint, li Add aa bouquet l| cups) cups) white white wine. bouquet garni and pan. Simmer until almost almost Simmer until tomatoes. Coyer Cover the the pan. and crushed crushed tomatoes. ail has evaporated. the stock stock has evaporated. all the Drain Remove the the warm. Remove slices and and keep keep warm. Drain the the spiny spiny lobster lobster slices bouquet pint, scant garni from pan. Stir scant cup) cup) dl. (t(+ pint, the pan. Stir in in 22 dl. from the bouquet garni Béchamel (] pint, pint, scant (see SAUCE) cup) scant cup) and 22 dl. dl. H sauce (see SAUCE) and Btchamel sauce double Replace the the spiny spiny few seconds. seconds. Replace cream.. Boil Boil for for aa few double cream lobster l5 minutes. minutes. for 15 and simmer simmer for slices in in the the sauce. sauce. Coyer Cover and lobster slices Add juice to to the the of lemon lemon juice teaspoons butter and aa squeeze squeeze of Add 22 teaspoons butter and sauce. sauce. Serve (see RICE). with Rice RICE). l'indienne (see Rice àh l'indienne Serve with Spiny Boil22 DEMI-DEUIT- - Boil lobster demi-deuil. LANcousrE DEMI-DEUIL demideuil. LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster spiny leave Drainand and leave in aa white white wine wine court-bouillon. court-bouillor. Drain lobsters in spiny lobsters to ove the remove the and rem spiny lobsters lobsters lengthwise lengthwise and to cool. cool. Split Split the the spiny shells. flesh. dice the the remaining remaining flesh. the tails tails into into slices slices and and dice shells. Cut Cut the Make withaa mushrooms blended blended with salpicon of of truffles truffies and and mushrooms Make aa salpicon Iittle (seeSAUCE), with fresh fresh sauce(see SAUCE), with little fish-based fish-based Suprême Suprdme sauce cream . Stir diced spiny spiny thediced and aa Iittle Madeira added added. Stirinin the cream and little Madeira lobster with decorate with shellsand anddecorate in the flesh. Put Put the thesalpicon salpicon in theshells lobster flesh. the very andbrown brown ininaavery tail slices. slices. Coyer Coverwith with suprême suprdme sauce sauceand the tail hot jelly, and and white fish fishstock stockjelly, Warm strips stripsof of truffle truffie ininwhite hot oyen. oven. Warm the shells. use tops of shells. to decorate decorate the the tops ofthe use these these to Spiny gratin.LANGOUSTE Boil the the GRATIN- Boil lobaterau LANGousrEAU AUGRATIN Spiny lobster au gratin.

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893 893

SPIRIT SPIRIT with aasauce Serve with sauce made made from frommayonnaise mayonnaise mixed mixedwith with Serve (see TOMATO), cooked in oil and flavoured Tomatofon&re TOMATO), cooked in oil and flavoured Tomato fondue (see withanchovy anchovy essence. essence. with pemsreNNE parisienne. LANGOUSTE Spiny lobster lobcter ài lalaparisienne. LANGousrE ÀALA r,ePARISIENNESpiny Proceedas asfor for Spiny Spiny lobster lobster àhlalamoscovite, moscovite,changing changing the the Proceed presentation garnish and follows: presentation and garnish asasfollows: Remove the the tail tail and andempty emptythe theshell. shell. Fill Fill with withcoarsely coarsely Remove shredded lettuce lettucesalad. salad. Place Place on onaabuttered buttered wedge wedgeof of bread. bread. shredded Cut the the tail tail flesb flesh into into slices slices and andarrange arrangeon topof on top of the theshell. shell. Cut Decorateeach each slice jelly. slice with with aastrip strip of truffieand of truffle and glaze $azewith Decorate with jelly. with artichoke Garnish with artichoke bearts hearts filled filled with with aa salad salad of of Gamish vegetables and and the the diced diced flesh flesh of of the the spiny spiny lobster lobsterdressed dressed vegetables with jellied mayonnaise, mayonnaise, quartered quarteredor or halved halved hard hard boiled boiledeggs eggs withjellied jelly and glaz.dwith quartered lettuce and quartered lettuce hearts. hearts. glazed with jelly jelly, and Decorate the the di dish with chopped chopped jelly, and arrange arrange rounds rounds Decorate sb with ofjelly along the the edge. Run aa decorated edge. Run decorated skewer skewer between between the the of jelly along eyes of of the the spiny spiny lobster. lobster. Serve Serve with with mayonnaise. mayonnaise. eyes ptLAF, RISOTTO pilaf and Spiny lobster lobster pilaf and risotto. risotto. PILAF, Rrsorro DE DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrE Spiny Proceed as asfor Lobster pilaf pilaf and (see LOBSTER). andrisotto LOBSTER). -- Proceed for Lobster risotto (see proceed as Spiny lobster lobster ài la la russe. russe. LANGOUSTE uwc,ousrn ÀA LA LA RUSSE RUssESpiny - Proceed as for Spiny Sptny lobster lobster àit la Ia moscovite, moscovfle, changing changing tbe presentation the presentation for garnish as and garnish as follows: follows: and jellied mayonnaise the spiny Coat the spiny lobster lobster slices slices with with jellied mayonnaise or or aa Coat wlite Chaud-froid (see SAUCE). Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Decorate Decorate with with aa little little white coral and jelly. Arrange of the coral and 22 cbervilleaves glazedwith chervil leaves glazed Arrange the the oftbe withjelly. slices on top of on top of the the spiny spiny lobster, lobster, wbich which should should be be stuffed stuffed with with slices coarsely shredded shredded lettuce lettuce salad, salad, and and set set on on aa wedge wedge of of aa coarsely buttered bread. bread. buttered Garnish with with cylindrical cylindrical moulds moulds of of Russian Russian salad salad dressed dressed Gamish with jellied mayonnaise, mayonnaise, halves halves ofhard of hard boiled boiled eggs, eggs, decorated decorated withjellied jelly and glazed with with truffies truffies and and glazed with jelly and lettuce lettuce hearts. hearts. Skewer Skewer with the lobster. lobster. Serve Serve with with Tartare (see SAUCE, Tartare sauce sauce (see SAIJCE, Cold Cold the sauces). sauces). lobster salado Spfuy sslad. SALADE slrlDE DE DE LANGOUSTE LANcousrE -- Using spiny spiny Spiny lobster proceed as lobster, proceed as for for Lobster salad (see (see SALAD). lobster, Spiny lobster lobster with with various (cold). LANGOUSTE various sauces sauces (cold). LANcousrE FROIDE FRoTDE Spiny AUx sAUcEs DIVERSES orvsRsBs -- Boil Boil aa spiny spiny lobster in a court-bouillon. AUX SAUCES Leave cool. Garnish Garnish with with fresh parsley parsley or lettuce hearts. to cool. Leave to Serve with or any sauce suitable for cold fish fish or or Serve with mayonnaise mayonnaise or shellfish. shellfisb. proceed Splny lobster on the spit. r.itxc,ousrs BRocHE -- Proceed Spiny lobster on the spit. LANGOUSTE ,i, À LA BROCHE asfor spil (see the spit on the (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). as for Lobster Lobster on Spfuy lobster Languedoc cookery). cookery). CIVET ctver Spiny lobster stew stew (Catalan (Catalan and Languedoc DE slices and proceed DE LANcousrr LANGOUSTE -- Cut the spiny lobster into slices as increasing the as for for Spiny Spiny lobster lobster dà l'ambricaing, l'américaine, increasing tbe amount of tomato tomato and and flavouring flavouring it strongly strongly with garlic. SPIRIT. SPIRIT.

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EAU-DE-VrE EAU-DE-VIE -

(brandy),but distilledwine wine(brandy), butthe theterm termisisextended extendedtotocoyer distilled cover spiritsdistilled distilledfrom fromfruit fruitand andeven evencereals. cereals. spirits Theeau-de-vie eau-de-vie of ofCharentes, Charentes,Cognac, Cognac,has hasa areputation The reputation equaltotothat thatofoftbe greatestwines thegreatest winesand equal andisisundoubtedly undoubtedly the the primeofall of allspirits. spirits.Its Itsincomparable incomparableflavour flavourisisdue duetotoa aspecial prime special vine,the theFolle Folleblancbe, blanche,whicb whichalso yieldsa arough, alsoyields vine, rough,mediocre mediocre whitewine. wine.Its qualitydepends Itsquality dependstotoaagreat greatextent white extenton vine ontbe thevine growth.The Thefirst firstCognacs Cognacsare aremade grapesgrown growth. madefrom fromthe growninin thegrapes chalky vineyards vineyards known known asasChampagnes. Champagnes.AAdistinction chalky distinctionisis made between between Fines FinesChampagnes (liqueur brandies) Champagnes(liqueur made brandies) and and PetitesChampagnes, Champagnes, and andbetween between Fins Petites Finsbois boisand andBons Bonsbois bois Cognacs,according according toto the theorigin origrnof ofthe thewine winedistilled. Cognacs, distilled. InIn formertimes times distillation distillation was wascarried carried out primitive former outininaavery veryprimitive still, heated heatedover overan anopen fire.This process was openfire. Thisprocess still, wascarried carriedout outinin twostages. stages. The Thebrouillis brouillis collected collected first two firstwas wasdistilled distilledafresh afresh greaterheat over greater heat toto arrive arriveatatthe over thedesired desired strengtb. strength.Tbe. The. products were graded. were then then graded. products Immediately after afterdistilling, distilling,Cognac, Immediately Cognac, which per whichisisabout about70 70per cent alcohol, alcohol, has hasscarcely scarcely any cent anyaroma. aroma.This Thisdevelops develops by byslow slow etheriflcation and andby changes which bychanges etherification whichoccur occur while whileititisisstored stored inin casks, which which lower lower its itsstrength strengthand permit sorne casks, and permit some evaporation evaporation of alcohol. ofalcohol. Themanufacture preparation of The manufacture and casks demand and preparation of brandy brandycasks demand particular care. care. After yearsin After 25 25years particular inaacask, cask, aa brandy brandy loses loses about about third ofits one third of its volume.1t volume. It becomes one becomes slightly slightly coloured coloured and andtart. tart. These incomparable incomparable brandies These brandies whose whosearoma aroma Iingers lingers for for several several glasses into hours in in the the glasses into which hours which they they have poured,are have been been poured, are not not to be found in be found in ordinary to ordinary wine wine shops shops but but are are used used to to make make commercial products. products. They commercial They are are adulterated adulterated with younger with younger spirits, after after syrup syrup and spirits, and water water have have been been added added to to reduce reducethem them to the the commercial commercial standard to standard of per cent of 40 40 per cent alcohol. alcohol. Sometimes Sometimes less orthodox orthodox methods less methods are are used, used, the the brandy brandy being being adulterated adulterated 'sauce' mixtures, with 'sauce' with mixtures, for for which which formulae formulae are are to to be be found found in in distillers' manuals. distillers' manuals. Here are are aa few pie formulae: Here few sam sample formulae:

|. Steep Steep for for 33 da 1. ys in days in 1I litre (If; pints, litre (l~ pints, generous generous quart) quart) of of (2 oz.) g. (2 brandy: 60 60 g. oz.) catechu, catechu, 10 (* oz.) l0 g.g. (t oz.) balsam balsam of tolu, and of tolu, and (3 oz.) g. (3 add 85 add 85 g. oz.) ammonia. ammonia. 2. Steep 2. Steep for for 33 days days in (lf, pints, in 1I litre pints, generous litre (l~ generous quart) quart) of of (l teaspoon) g. (1 brandy: 66 g. teaspoon) vanilla, vanilla, 80 g. (3 (3 oz.) (* 80 g. oz.) catechu, g. (t catechu, 88 g. g. (1 oz.) tolu, tolu, 12 12 g. oz.) oz.) sassafras, sassafras, 1I drop drop of of bitter bitter almond almond e oz.) essence and g. (4 (4 oz.) and 100 100 g. oz.) sugar. sugar. These ingredients are are added to (22 gallons, to 100 100 litres gallons,2$ litres (22 gallons) unmatured gallons) unmatured brandy, brandy, and and rectified rectified spirit, spirit, heated heated together to blend the ingredients, and then cooled cooled slowly. slowly. The brandies brandies of of Armagnac are are made from the the vines vines of of Gers Gers called called Picquepoul, wbich which is is merely merely aa variety variety of of the the Folle

27t

Strictly, eau-de-vie is the product of

Storehouse Storehousefor forcasks casksofmaturing of maturingCognac Cognac

Champagne glass glass (Rouard. (Rouard. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse) Champagne

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Storehouse for for despatch despatch ofCognac of Cognac Storehouse (Maison Remy Remy Martin) Martin) (Maison

SPIT blanche of of Charentes. Charentes. Their Their flavour is a little little different different from blanche that ofCognac. of Cognac. that wines of of many many other regions regjons are distilled, but it it is a The wines notable fact fact that the first growths growths do not usually yield fine notable brandies. brandies. of wines wines is also distilled after a little water has The marc of been added added to to it, it, as as are are the lees lees which which remain at at the bottom bottom of been great enjoy aa great the vats vats and and casks. casks. Some Sorne of of the the products products enjoy the reputation. reputation. Cider, to which the marc is usually added, is distilled to produce the the spirits known known as as Calvados. Calvados. produce Spirits are also distilled distilled from all fruit which is sufficiently sufficiently Spirits as for cider cider or wine. Thus, abundant. It is first fermented, as spirits are distilled distilled from apricots, cherries, raspfigs, raspcherries, dates, figs, spirits pears, peaches, berries, mulberries, mulberries, bilberries, bilberries, mirabelles, pears, peaches, berries, greengages, plums (quetsch, slivovitz) and many other kinds slivovitz) and of fruit. of juice, but nowadays distilled from sugar canejuice, nowadays aa True rum is distilled sugarcane tafia, is is also also called called as tafia, distillation of molasses, once known as rum. The distilled grain of cereals, especially barley, yields especially barley, of cereals, distilled grain The spirits it is Sometimes it whisky. Sometimes such as and whisky. as Kornschnaps and spirits such juniper berries to produce withjuniper produce gin. flavoured with The analysis the detection of of concerned with with the is concerned analysis of spirits is minerais which which should present, and with the the coconot be and with be present, should not minerals efficient ofimpurities. to 20 should be from 66to20 of impurities. This This co-efficient co-efficient should efficient for rectified industrial spirits, 20 'medium taste' 150 for for 'medium 20 to to 150 spirits. It is always more than 150 and can reach 300 in spirits spirits of inthe inThis analysis analysis is is completed completed by by the wine or or fruit. fruit. This of wine

Modern spi\. d'Enghien spit. Casino Casino d'Enghien Modem (Casino d'Enghien) d'Enghien) (Casino

sacsynthetic bouquets, bouquets, sacvestigation of colouring colouring matter, matter, synthetic vestigation of charin dulcin. charin and and dulcin.

roasted can be be roasted SPIT. etc., can which meat, meat, etc., BRocHE -- Utensil Utensil on on which SPIT. BROCHE

before fue. before aa fire. variety on on There isis the the variety There of spits. spits. There There are are various various types types of placed vertically, kind vertically, and and the the kind which to be roasted isis placed the meat meat to be roasted which the or on placed horizontally. are hand hand operated operated or Spits are which itit isis placed horizontally. Spits on which mechanically roasts turn turn slowly. slowly. to make make the the roasts operated to mechanically operated roast, as as such, such, Many gastronomes do any roast, do not not recognise recognise any Many gastronomes in this this except wasin fire. ItIt was wood fire. cooked on on aa spit spit before before aa wood one cooked except one manner But kitchep kitchep in the days. But done in the olden olden days. that roasts roasts were were done manner that equipment and electric electric modern needs. needs. Gas Gas and now in in line lihe with with modern equipment isis now produce perfect perfect roasts. able us spits roasts. us to to produce and en enable spits are are excellent excellent and general rules The rules for for great Escoffier drew up up sorne some general Escoffier drew The great roasting: roasting: 'Of thespit spit isisby by roasting, the 'Of the usual methods methods of of roasting, the two two most most usual far in which which the the operation operation conditions in superior, due due to to the the conditions far the the superior, isis carried employed. type ofheat of heat isisemployed. and regardless regardlessofwhat of what type carried out out and 'The lavished much care careisislavished 'The explanation however much simple: however explanation isissimple: on upinin prevent vapours vapoursbuilding building up can prevent roast nothing nothing can on an an oyen oven roast placein the process takes in this this takes place roasting process space: the the roasting the enclosed enclosed space: atmosphere. the more more all the fumes isis ail The effect these fumes effect of of these atmosphere. The juices of disastrous delicate and and arerather ratherdelicate the meat meat are when the the juices of the disastrous when more reduction. and reduction. liable to to alteration alteration and more liable 'Roasting t, on inthe theopen open donein theother other hand, hand, isisdone 'Roasting on on the thespi spit, on the air, from the the detracts nothing nothing from dry atmosphere which detracts atmosphere which air, inin aa dry juicessui quality generisof why meat.This This explains explains why of the themeaL quality of ofthe thejuices suigeneris spit-roasted oven-roasted superior to tooven-roasted indisputably superior meat isis indisputably spit-roasted meat meat.' meat.' From akin pointof moreakin view,spit-roasting spit-roasting isismore technical point of view, From aatechnical to te different quite Infact, fact, grilling and roasting. In and isisqui different from fromoyen ovenroasting. to grilling whereas tothe the duemainly mainly to meat in inthe the oyen oven isisdue the roasting roastingof ofmeat whereas the

Gas roasting Spil spit Gas roasling (ConSlrUCleurs (Constructeursassociés dcParis) Fark) ussociis de

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SPLEEN SPLEEN actionofofheat heatcontained containedwithin withinit,it,spit-roasted spit-roasted meat action meatisis subjected totothe theradiation radiation of glowingsurfaces. ofglowing surfaces.Tbere Thereare subjected aretwo two clearlydefined definedstages process of stagesininthe theprocess ofspit-roasting: spit-roasting: clearly Thefirst firstisisthe theapplication application of ofintense intenseheat heatupon The uponthe thesurface surface ofthe themeat. meat.This Thisisisintended intended totoseal sealininthejuices of the juicesand andtotobrown brown themeat. meat. ItIthas hasto process and tobe beaarapid rapidprocess the andmust muston onno noaccount account passthe thestage stageof ofsimply simplycolouring colouring the pass thesurface. surface.The Theheat heatmust must reduced before bereduced before the thesecond secondstage. stage. be This second secondstage stage continues continues and This andcompletes completesthe thecooking cooking process. The The intention intention isistotocook process. cookthe theinside insideof ofthe themeat meatasas muchor orasaslittle little asasindividual individual taste much tastedictates. dictates.InInthis thisway waythe the chef can can satisfy satisfy everybody everybody and perfectlyroasted chef andturn turn out outperfectly roasted meatevery everytime. time.But Butititisisaatask meat taskthat thatrequires requires his hisconstant constantand and attention. exclusive attention. exclusive Wecan cansee seehow how much We much the thespit spithas hasevolved evolvedby bytracing tracing its its development from from the development thespit spit used usedby byour ourancestors ancestorstotothe the present day day electric gasones. present electric or orgas ones. SPLEEN. RATE RArE- - Ox Oxspleen SPLEEN. spleen isissometimes sometimes used pot-ou-feu. inpot-au-feu. used in Ingredients required required for preparation ofsponge for the the preparation ofsponge fingers fingers(Fasni Desmeuzes) Ingredients (Fasné Desmeuzes)

SPONDIAS SPONDIAS -- Indian Indian tree treewhose whose edible fruit isisknown ediblefruit knownasasaa The fruit hog hog apple. apple. The fruit of of the the spondias, spondias, which growsininmany whichgrows many tropical regions, regions, makes tropical makes excellent preserves and excellent preserves andaafermented fermented drink. drink. (SAI\DWICH) CAKES. SPONGE SPONGE (SANDWICH) CAKES. BISCUITS Brscurrs - - See See also also CAKE, CAKE, GENOESE. GENOESE. put 300 Nmond sandwich A1mond sandwich cake. cake. BISCUIT srscur AUX AUx AMANDES AMANDES- - Put 300g.g. (ll oz., (II oz., 11lj cups) cups) sugar, yolks and sugar, 88 egg pinch of egg yolks and aa pinch salt into into aa of salt bowl en spoon. bowl and and blend blend well well with with aa wood wooden spoon. Wh en the When the mixture mixture isis frothy, frothy, incorporate incorpor ate120 (4oz., 120g.g.(4 oz., ~f,cup) cup) sweet sweet almonds almonds and and 44 or or 55 bitter bitter almonds, almonds, blanched blanched and and pounded in pounded in aa mortar mortar to to aa smootb smooth paste pastewith with egg eggwhite. white.Add Addaa few few drops drops of of orange orange blossom water and blossom water and mix mix weIl. well. Add Add 88egg egg whites, whites, whisked whisked to to aa stifffroth stifffroth and g. (4 and 120 120 g. oz.,1Icup) cup) sieved sieved G oz., flour. flour. Butter Butter aa sponge sponge cake cake tin, tin, sprinkle sprinkle itit with pour in with flour flour and and pour in the the cake cake mixture, mixture, filling filling the the tin quarters of tin up up to to three three quarters of its its depth. depth. Bake Bake in in aa moderately moderately bot hot oyen. oven. Turn Turn out out onto onto aa wire wire cake cake rack rack and allow to and allow to cool. cool. Cut into Cut into three three layers layers of of equal equal thickness. thickness. Coat Coat one one layer layer with with apricot apricot jam, the jam, jam and second with the second with raspberry raspberry jam and sandwich sandwich the the layers layers together. jam, ice together. Brush Brush with with apricot apricot jam, ice with with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured Fondant (see ICING) Fondant icing icing (see ICING) and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped pistachio nuts. nuts. Sponge Sponge fingers. fingers. BISCUITS Brscurrs ÀA LA r..,c, CUILLER currrsn -- These These biscuits biscuits are are prepared prepared with with dough dough made made of of flour, flour, sugar, yolks and sugar, egg egg yolks and stiffiy stiffiy beaten egg egg wbites. whites. Cream g. (9 (9 oz., generous cup) Cream 250 250 g. oz., generous cup) castor castor sugar sugar and and 88 egg egg yolks yolks in in aa bowl bowl until until the the mixture mixture forms forms aa ribbon. ribbon. Flavour Flavour with Ii with 11 teaspoon orange orange blossom (7 oz., blossom water, water, add g. (7 190 g. add 190 oz.,I| cups) sieved sieved flour and and incorporate incorporate 88 egg egg whites, whites, whisked whisked until until stiff. stiff. Blend the the mixture, mixture, lifting lifting itit lightly lightly with with aa spoon spoon and and folding folding in the the egg gently. egg whites whites gently. Pipe Pipe through aa forcing forcing bag fitted with with aa wide bag fitted wide nozzle nozde onto onto sbeets greaseproof paper. sheets of of greaseproof paper. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with castor castor sugar, sugar, lift lift each each sheet sheet ofpaper of paper by two ends by the the two ends to to shake shake offsurplus offsurplus sugar. sugar. Place on a baking tray and bake in a moderately hot oyen Place on a tray and bake in a moderately hot oven (l90°C., 375°F., (190"C., 375"F., Gas Gas Mark Mark 5) for 12 5) for 12 minutes. minutes. The mixture may The mixture may be be flavoured flavoured with grated orange with grated orange or lemon or Iemon rind, or with vanilla rind, vanilla essence. essence. Sponge fingers are used in the preparation of many Sponge fingers are used in the preparation of many sweet sweet dishes, such dishes, (see CHARLOTTE). as Charlotte such as Charlotte russe rursse (see CHARLOTTE). Italian sandwich sandwich cake. Italian cake. BISCUIT srscurr À A L'ITALIENNE r'rrALrENNn-- Ingredients. Ingredients. (18 oz., cups) castor 500 g. (18 500 oz., 2i 2| cups) castor sugar, (4 oz., sugar, 10 10 eggs, g. (41eggs, 125 125 g. oz., 125 g. (41oz., 1 cup) sieved generous cup) sieved flour, generous cup) sieved flour, 125 E.(4oz.,l cup) sieved potato potato flour, 2 2 teaspoons teaspoons vanilla-flavoured vanilla-fiavoured sugar flour, or if teaspoon sugar or teaspoon vanilla essence. essence. vanilla Cream the the sugar and add the egg Method. Cream Method. sugar and yolks one add the egg yolks at aa one at fold them them into into the the mixture. time. Whisk Whisk the the egg egg whites whites and time. and fold mixture.

Work thc consistency as shown in the mixture mixture to a smooth consistency ( Larousse) in the picture (Larousse)

Pipe the the mixture mixture through through aa forcing-bag forcing-bag on on to to greaseproofpaper greaseproof paper (Fasnd (Fasné Pipe Desmeuzes) Desmeuzes)

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SPOON vanilla-flavoured sugar or Add the flour, potato flour, and vanilla-flavoured of vanilla essence, all ail previously mixed together on a sheet of paper. paper. Blend Blend well. weIL

Pour the mixture into a charlotte charlotte mould which has been of icing sugar and potato buttered and dusted dusted with a mixture mixture of buttered equal proportions. proportions. flour in equal Sandwich cake manqu6. manqué. BIscuIT BISCUIT MANeuf MANQUÉ -- Ingredients. Ingredients. 400 Sandwich g. (14 2| cups) castor sieved flour, 500 g. (18 oz., 2* (14 o2.,3! oz., 3~ cups) sieved g. (II (11 oz., 16 egg l* cups) yolks, 300 g. oz., 11 butter, 16 cups) butter, sugar, 18 egg yolks, wrutes, whisked whisked to a stifffroth, stiff froth, 3 tablespoons tablespoons rum. whites, Cream the sugar sugar and the egg yolks together until Method. Cream rum and and flour and mixture is white and and frothy. Add the rum the mixture in the and pour in weiL Add the stiffly mix well. stifly beaten egg whites and cooled melted melted butter. butter. cooled have been buttered Spoon the mixture mixture into cake tins tins wruch which have Spoon (190oC., oven (190°C, dusted with with flour. Bake Bake in a moderately hot oyen and dusted 375°F., Gas Mark 5) for 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. 375'F., 37 5 g. Punch sandwich cakes. BlsculTs PUNCH euNcn -- Ingredients. .Ing redients. 375 cakes. BISCUITS (l 8 oz., 2* 2f cups) sugar, 12 (13 oz., 3* cups) sieved o2.,3{ sieved flour, 500 g. (18 stifffroth, egg yolks, 3 whole who le eggs, 8 egg whites, froth, whisked to a stiff whites, whisked (l I oz., llcups) 300 g. (II 11 cups) butter, 1lj~ teaspoons orange-flavoured 300 teaspoons lemon-flavoured tablespoons sugar, 1 lf~ teaspoons lemon-flavoured sugar and 3 tablespoons (f teaspoon (scant * teaspoon orange essence essence and * teaspoon orange f teaspoon I cup) rum. (* of the flavoured sugars). lemon essence essence may be used instead of yolks and and whole sugar, egg egg yolks Method. Cream together the sugar, eggs until the the mixture mixture becomes Stir in the flavoured becomes very light. Stir eggs melted sugars, rum, flour, stiffly stifry beaten egg whites whites and cooled melted weiL Mixwell. butter. Mix Put the mixture into flan into buttered paper cases, buttered flan (180"C., rings sandwich tins. Bake in in aa moderate oyen oven (180°C, rings or or sandwich tins. Bake 350°F., 350oF., Gas Mark 4).

(Zrror.,,ue) with castor fingers with sugar (Larousse) castor sugar sponge fingers Sprinkle the the sponge Sprinkle

Mould for Mould for Savoy cake sponge cake Savoy sponge (Larousse) (Larousse)

(Fasni Desmeuzes) paper to Desmeuzes) Lift stgar (Fasné to shake Lift the shake offsurplus off surplu ssugar the paper

Savoy 185 Ingredients. 185 cake. BISCUIT s$cur DE DE SAVOIE sAvoIE -- Ingredients. Savoy sandwich cake. g. 1~ cups) sieved 1~ cups) (6 oz., potato g. (6 (6 oz., g. (6 cups) potato sieved flour, flour, 185 185 g. oz.,l} o2.,1{ flour, (18 oz.) g. (18 14 eggs, eggs, 1I tablespoon tablespoon 500 g. oz.) castor castor sugar, sugar, 14 flour, 500 vanilla-flavoured essence. sugar or or *I teaspoon vanilla essence. vanilla-flavoured sugar Method. yolks in in aa bowl until bowl until sugar and and the egg egg yolks Method. Cream Cream the sugar the sugar or or ribbon. Add Add vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar the mixture mixture fonns forms aa ribbon. vanilla potato flour, Fold in in the the and potato flour, mixed. vanilla essence, mixed. Fold essenc€, flour flour and wrusked whisked egg egg wrutes. whites. Put which have have been been into Savoy cake tins tins which Put the the mixture mixture into Savoy cake buttered and up to to flour, filling filling them them only only up and dusted dusted with potato flour, two-thirds. (180'C., 350°F., hot oyen 350"F., Bake in in aa moderately hot oven (I80°C, two-thirds. Bake Gas 4). Gas Mark Mark4). SPOOMS ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES. ICES. SPOOMS -- See See ICE SPOON. or concave concave Utensil which which has has an an oval oval or SFOON. CUILLER cUILLER -- Utensil spherical (see COVER). Spoons used used form fixed fixed to to aa handle handle (see COVER). Spoons spherical fonn in made in in different different in cooking have various various shapes shapes and and are are made cooking have en spoons, materials particular uses: spoons, uses: wood wooden according to to their their particular materials according spoons for sauces, spoons, soup soup ladIes, ladles, etc. etc. spoons for sauces, basting spoons,

Remove (Larousse) paper when whenbaked btked(Larousse) fingers from from the the paper Remove the the sponge sp.onge fingers

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SPRAT SPRAT SPRAT -- Small Small sea (3 to sea fish fish 88 to to 12 12 cm. cm. (3 to 4t 4j inches) inches) long, long, aa SPRAT smaller than the little sm the sardine sardine and and somewhat somewhat resembling resembling the the little aller than herring. The The back back isis blue-green blue-green and and the the sides sides silvery silvery with with aa herring. gold band band at at spawning spawning time. time. gold Gastronomically itit isis not not held held in in such such high high esteem esteem as as the the Gastronomically sardine. Ali All methods methods of preparationfor of preparation sardine are are applicable applicable sardine. for sardine to the the sprat. preserved, smoked sprat. ItIt isis also also preserved, smoked and and salted. salted. to

SPRUCE BEER. BEER. SAPINETTE sAprNErrE -- Fermented Fermented drink, drink, obtained obtained SPRUCE from branches branches and and cones cones of of spruce, spruce, aa native native of of America America and and from which isis also Russia, which also found found in in the the north north of of France. France. These These Russia, are boiled branches are boiled and yeast are and sugar, sugar, hops hops and and yeast are added added branches put into when the beer into casks. beer isis put casks. when OF BACCHUS'. BACCHUS'. ÉPERONS fpenoNs BACHIQUES BAcHreuEs -- MetaphoriMetaphori'SPURS 'SPURS OF cal expression expression sometimes sometimes used used on on menus menus for for the the ensemble ensemble of of cal up aa cold cold hors-d' hors-d'euvre. It isis used used especially especially of of morsels making up œuvre. It foods such salty such as as ham, ham, sausages, sausages, saveloy saveloy and and chitterlings, chitterlings, salt y foods being highly highly seasoned, seasoned, cause cause thirst. thirst. It It isis in in this this sense sense which, being that Rabelais Rabelais used used the the expression. expression.

(Dutch cookery) Stamppot (Claire) Stamppot (Dutch cookery) (Claire)

STAR STAR OF OF BETHLEHEM. BETHLEHEM. ORNYTHOGALEoRNyrHocArs - Plant Plant with with edible edible prepared as roots, roots, which which are (q.v.). are prepared as salsify salsify (q.v.).

SQUAB -- See See PIGEON. SQUAB

r'6cure - ln STARCH. ST ARCH. FÉCULEIn former former times, precipitated by times, ail all solids solids precipitated by juices obtained juices obtained by by extraction extraction were were called called starches, starches, though though they they differed differed widely widely from from one one another. another. Nowadays, Nowadays, the the term term isis used pure used especially to describe describe pure especially to powder or starch starch powder or the the white powdery starch white powdery starch deposit deposit which which separates separates out out from from water water in in whicb pounded vegetwhich certain certain pounded veget(such as ables potatoes, manioc, ables (such as potatoes, manioc, sago, sago, rice, rice, etc.) etc.) have have been been washed. washed. ln In cookery, cookery, four four main main types types of of starch starch are are used used to to tbicken thicken sa uces or sauces or make make coulis and creams. coulis and creams. These are: local These are: local starches starches contained contained in in wheat, potatoes, corn wheat, potatoes, (maize) and corn (maize) and rice; rice; exotic exotic starches: starches: salep, salep, arrowroot (manioc), sago, arrowroot (manioc), yam, etc.; pulse sago, yam, etc.; pulse starches: peas, lentils, starches: haricot haricot beans, beans, peas, lentils, etc.; fruit starches, etc.; fruit starches, extracted extracted from from chestnuts, chestnuts. bananas bananas and and sweet sweet nuts. nuts. For For thickening thickening soups, soups, stocks potato starch stocks and and sauces, sauces, potato starch and and arrowroot (manioc starch) arrowroot (manioc starch) are are mainly mainly used. used. In In the the U.S.A. U.S.A. cornstarch cornstarch isis widely widely used. used. Foods containing containing aa high proportion ofstarch high proportion of starch are are said said to to be be starchy. starchy.

ST ARLING. ÉTOURNEAU, STARLING. ErounNsAu, SANSONNET sANsoNNEr -- Bird Bird similar similar to to the the blackbird, blackbird, but but smaller. smaller. The prized by The starling starling was was much much prized the by the Romans. Romans. Nowadays in in France France itit is is cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as the thrush but its its f1esh is tough and flesh is and bitter. bitter. STEARIN. STEARIN. STÉARINE srf,cnNB -- Neutral Neutral fat fat resulting resulting from from the the comcombination of of stearic stearic acid glycerine. It with solid acid with solid glycerine. It isis found found in in varying proportions in varying proportions in edible quantity varying edible fats, fats, the the quantity varying in in relation to the melting point of the fat. of the fat. In In former former times times stearin stearin was was much much used in ornamental used in ornamental sculptures sculptures and and plinths. Nowadays this has been this usage usage has been almost almost completely abandoned, abandoned, even even in in culinary culinary exhibitions. exhibitions.

Varieties of squash ofsquash

pArrsoN -- Member of the Cucurbitaceae SQUASH. PÂTISSON Cucurbitaceae family. family. The best-known varieties are yellow and are American American white, white, yellow orange. These and and other other squashes squashes can prepared in can be be prepared in any method suitable for marrow metbod suitable marrow and pumpkin. pumpkin. Squash, hollowed out Squash, hollowed out and and blanched, blanched, can can be used as be used as aa container for for various dishes. The scooped out pulp is container is cooked butter and added to these these dishes. dishes. in butter

SQUID -- See See CALAMARY. CALAMAR y. SQLIID SQUILL-FISH. seunrn SQU1LLE - Crustacean Crustacean also known as SQLILI-FISH. as sautermer (sea-grasshopper) (sea-grasshopper) and de mer (sea mantis), elle de mer and mante mante de and Italy and in the English fished off the coasts of Spain and They are are prepared prepared like like lobsters lobsters (q.v.). Channel. They

STEEPING. MACÉRATION u.l,c6unoN -- Process Process consisting consisting of of soaking soaking various foodstuffs in an an aromatic aromatic liquid preparation. During liquid preparation. During steeping, steeping, chemical chemical changes changes occur occur both in the the foodstuff foodstuff and both in and the the liquid. liquid. The nature nature and and extent extent of of these these changes changes depend depend largely on the density of the liquid used and on the soluble on the density of the liquid used and on the soluble elements elements in the the foodstuff. foodstuff. When When meat meat is is steeped penetrates the ste€ped in in brine, brine, the the salt salt penetrates the muscular ail proportion muscular tissue tissue and propoftion of liquid absorbs absorbs aa sm and the the liquid small of the protein in the soluble soluble protein in the the meat. meat. In In the the case case of of aa marinade, marinade, the the spices penetrate the spices penetrate the solid solid in in the the same same way. way. When When fruit fruit is is steeped in sweetened steeped in sweetened or or diluted diluted alcohol, alcohol, the the alcohol penetrates the alcohol penetrates yields sorne the fruit, fruit, which which yields some of its juice to of its to the alcohol. the alcohol. When (e.g. gentian, gentian, quassia) quassia) is When aa solid pure water solid (e.g. is steeped steeped in in pure water or water water with with aa little or little alcohol alcohol added, added. the the soluble soluble elements in elements in the solid in the the water. the solid dissolve dissolve in water.

SQUIRREL. fcunpul ÉCUREU1L -- Wild Wild rodent. In sorne tries, it is SQUIRREL. some coun countries, is as game. game. It is cooked in the the same same way way as highly esteemed as as rabbit. rabbit. STALK. EcnappsR ÉGRAPPER -- To remove remove grapes or berries berries from their STALK. stalks. stalks. ST AMPPOT @utch (Dutcb cookery) cookery) -- A A national national dish dish in Holland. Rolland. STAMPPOT prepared by by serving serving smoked smoked sausages sausages on on top of of aa hash hash of ItIt isis prepared of cabbage, potato potato and and veal veal fat fat made made into aa raised raised bed bed on on aa dish. dish. cabbage, ST AR AI\ISE. ANlSE. ltns ANlS fronE ÉTOILÉ - Common badian STAR the badian - Common name of the known as as Chinese Chinese anise. anise. anise. Also AJso known anise. 898 898

STOCKS in vegetable vegetable fat fat or or butter, celery slightly cooked in chopped celery butter, thyme, bay leaf leaf and sometimes garlic. flavoured fiavoured with parsley, parsley, thyme, of stocks. White stock is is used as as the liquid in in white Use of Use poached poultry. Brown stock is sauces and and stews and and for poached sauces as aa liquid liquid in in brown sauces, sauces, for braising large cuts of used as meat and for brown stews. ofspecial special fish sauces, Fish stock is used in the preparation of sauce, White wine sauce or a thin Supr?me Normande sauce, such as Normande SAUCE) to be served with fish. fish. It It can also be used sauce (see SAUCE) cooked whole whole or in slices, before before it is to moisten moisten fish when it is cooked braised braised or poached. poached. is used as aa liquid for for ail all preparations in Vegetable stock is used as Vegetable vegetarian cooking. ve~:et
genns render sterile, to destroy germs STERILTSE. sTfRILIsER -- To render STERILISE. STÉRILISER in foodstuffs. Heat is the most and arrest arrest fermentation and fermentation in foodstuffs. Heat effective of sterilisation. sterilisation. effective agent of

STERLET sturgeon found in the Caspian Caspian Sea. STERLET -- Small sturgeon is renowned for the delicacy of its flesh. It is The sterlet is flesh. It caviare. eaten fresh, dried roe produces dried or or salted. Hs Its roe eaten produces the finest caviare. All of preparation salmon, salmon salmon trout preparation given for salmon, Ali methods methods of and sturgeon are are applicable to It is, is, however, however, to the the sterlet. It and mostly braised white wine. An essential condition of its braised in white preparation nrp'n~r~t,,")n in Russia, Russia, and one which gourmets there once that the sterlet shall be brought insisted should should be be followed, followed, is that is to be cooked. alive into the kitchen where it 1S tprNocHe -- Small river fish. STICKLEBACK. fish, mediocre in STICKLEBACK. ÉPINOCHE flavour. It is usually deep-fried. deep-fried. fiavour. Norwegian cod, differing little in STOCKFISH-- Dried Norwegian differing very !ittle STOCKFISH appearance from thd appearance the more familiar dried salt cod. It is very much liked in Germany, Belgium and Holland. Holland. much France, Stockfish is also eaten a great deal in the South of France, notably in Nice, where it is prepared as as in the recipe below after having been been soaked for at least 3 days in water. it isis soaked in lime In Belgium, Holland and and Germany it soaked in In water and afterwards cooked cooked like dried salt cod. well after it has been nigoise -- Scrape Scrape the fish weil Stockfish ài la niçoise Stockfish remove the bone and cut the fish into soaked in cold water; remove even-sized pieces. pieces. (21 lb.) large onions for every Sauté onions for Saut6 3 chopped large every 1I kg. (2* in olive oil. When they are cooked, add 4 stockfish, lightly in deseeded tomatoes, 4 crushed crushed c10ves cloves of large chopped and deseeded garlic, a pinch of of basil and a large bouquet bouquet garni. Season with salt and pepper. Cook for 20 minutes. and of stockfish to these cooked cooked vegetables and Add the pieces of cover the fish. covered, for sufficient boiling water to coyer fish. Cook, covered, 50 minutes. thick slices, minutes. Add 400 g. (14 oz.) potatoes, cut into thick and 250 g. (9 oz., 11 cups) black olives and cook for another oz.,l| 30 minutes. FoNDs DE DE CUISINE This term term refers refers to to many STOCKS. FONDS cttIsINE -- This culinary preparations: preparations: fat fat or lean stock, or meat juices used for sauces, stews or braising. is made Only use is Only aa limited limited use made of these fonds in practical of these cooking. Stocks everyday cooking. Stocks are are mainly used to make sauces, for thickening. broth and a quick roux rouxfor have on hand For cooking in the grand manner Forcookinginthegrand manneritit is good to have you to stocks stocks and other basic will allow you basic ingredients. These will work quickly and and easily and enable you to to obtained sauces easily and with better fiavour. with much better ffavour. necessary stocks The broth, c1ear The necessary stocks are: are: broth, clear soup, veal stock, white and brown and thick), juice from brasied meat, brown (thin and game stock, fish stock and variousjellies. various jellies. poultry and game These stocks, boiled down stocks, when when boiled down and and without without any any addition, are used as fiavourings, flavourings, essence, and and g)aze. When a certain quantity of of roux or other other binding '~l'-".lI'-'.lH element is added, these stocks become Basic sauces (see SAUCE), from which many other sauces are derived. derived. White our. It l4thite stock is a broth which by definition definition has no col colour. It has white meat and aromatic vegetables as a basis. Brown stock is made with beef, veal or poultry, which are stock is ways with the usual first half cooked in butter or fat, fat, and and al always usual aromatic aromatic vegetables, also half-cooked in butter. prepared with the bones and trimmings offish. Fish is prepared Fish stock stockis of fish. The Iiquid liquid usually consists of dry white white wine wine and water in is used. equal quantities, though sometimes just white wine is The only aromatics added are sliced onions, parsley, thyme, bay leaf and lemon lemon juice. Stalks and and parings of mushrooms could be added to this, if available. Vegetab/e Vegetable stock stock for for vegetarian cooking cooking is is obtained obtained by adding following vegetables: vegetables: carrots, onions onions and adding water water to the following

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UH.IUlI.JJ;

899

STOLLEN STOLLEN Aromatic ingredients. (l I oz.) ingredients.300 (l I oz.) oz.) carrots, carrots, 300 300 g.g. (II oz.) Aromatic 300 g.g. (Il large bouquet garni, 1I c10ve onions, 1I large garlic. bouquet garni, clove garlic. onions, Seasoning.l| (2 tablespoons) tablespoons (2 tablespoons) cooking cooking salt. salt. Seasoning. Ii tablespoons (6 quarts, quarts, 7i Liquid. 7T litres litres (6 quarts) thin 7j quarts) thin white white stock stockor or Liquid. water. water. Bone the the meat (After cooking meat and and cut pieces. (After cut itit into into large large pieces. cooking Bone can be the meat meat can be used used to to make make aa hash.) hash.) the Break the the bones bones into into small pieces. Slice small pieces. Slice the the carrots carrots and and Break Half cook onions. Half cook ail (scant pint, all ingredients ingredients in pint, in fat. Add 1-I litre litre (scant fat. Add onions. jelly. Add 2f cups) cups) white white stock stock and and boil boil down down to to aajelly. thesame same Add the 2i quantity of of stock stock and and boil down again. boil down again. Add Add the rest of the rest of the the quantity Bring to stock. Bring to the the boil boil and and season season lightly lightly with with salt. salt. Simmer Simmer stock. for 88 hours. hours. for Skim off off ail all fat fat from from the the stock stock and and strain strain through through aa fine fine Skim sieve. sieve. jellies, Light brown brown stock stock isis used used in in brown brown sauces, sauces, stews, stews, jellies, Light and in in different different methods methods of of braising. braising. Chefs Chefs consider consider itit an an and ingredient of essential ingredient of savoury savoury sauces. sauces. essential Stock of of veal veal or or other other meat. meat. FONDS ror.rps DE DE VEAU, VEAU, DE DE VIANDE VIANDE -Stock prepare aa meat With meat meat trimmings trimmings prepare meat stock, stock, which which can can be With be grary for used as as aa gravy for various various dishes dishes or or as as aa liquid liquid to dilute the to dilute the used juices of pieces of of small small pieces of meat. meat. Cut Cut the the meat meat into into small small pan juices pieces and and sauté saut6 in in butter, butter, allowing allowing 1I carrot carrot and and 1I medium medium pieces g. (9 (9 oz.) for 250 250 g. onion for oz.) meat trimmings. trimmings. onion As soon soon as as the the ingredients ingredients begin begin to to brown, As brown, sprinkle sprinkle in in 1I tablespoon Hour. flour. Stir Stir with aa wood wooden golden. Add spoon until tablespoon en spoon until golden. Add tablespoons (scant i* cup) cup) white white wine. wine. Boil Boil down. down. Add 66 tablespoons Add 33 dl. dl. pint, 1* lf cups) meat meat broth. broth. Cook Cook slowly slowly for"[ for t hour. (t hour. Strain Strain $ pint, through a fine sieve. through Brownveal stock. FONDS ronos BRUN BRUN DE DE VEAU, vEAU, JUS Brown veal stock. DE VEAUJUs BRUN BRUN DE vEAU (4| quarts, quarts, 5i For 5 litres (4!quarts): 5f quarts): (5+ lb.) ingredients.2*ke. Nourishing ingredients. 2i kg. (51 lb.) boned veal veal shoulder, shoulder, (5+ lb.) veal knuckle, ztke. (2+ lb.) knuckle, 1I kg. g. (2 (2 2t kg. (51 kg. (2i lb.) veal veal bones, 50 g. bones, 50 oz., f cup) dripping. Aromatic g. (lI (11 oz.) ingredients.300 (l I oz.) Aromatic ingredients. 300 g. g. (Il oz.) carrots, carrots, 300 300 g. oz.) bouquet garni. onions, 1I large bouquet lf tablespoons tablespoons (2 tablespoons) Seasoning. Ii tablespoons) salt. salt. Liquid. 7T litres (6 quarts, 7i 7| quarts) white stock. stock. Bone the meat, tie itit up, brush with dripping, dripping, season season and and brown in the oyen. oven. Break the ail pieces pieces as the bones into into as as sm small as possible. Coyer Cover the bottom possible. bottom of a large stock pot with the sliced sliced vegetables. Put the bones on the vegetables, then on top of ofthe then the the meat. Add the garni, coyer the bouquet garni, meat. Add pot, simmer over cover the the pot, over j litre (scant pint, gentle I 5 minutes. Moisten with 12i gentle heat for 15 pint,2t cups) white whÜe stock. Boil down to ajelly. a jelly. Add the same quantity of stock once once more. more. Boil Boil down down again. again. Add Add the the rest rest of the the stock. Bring to the boil, skim, skim, and and season season lightly lightly with salt. Simmer for 6 hours. Skim off ail fat and strain through Simmer offall through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. down, and with a little butter added, this Boiled down, and with this sauce sauce is used for pieces of roast meat, braised vegetables and used and other dishes. As this this stock stock takes takes aa long time to cook, one As one must add stock from time to time as as the liquid liquid boils away. or water from away. This applies to to all aU stocks stocks which need need long long cooking. applies or thickened thickened veal veal gravy. FONDS oe DE VEAU Tbick veal stock or Thickvealstock gravy. roNos vmu LIÉ, I.16, JUS DE DE vsA,u VEAU rrf LIÉ - Boil 2 2 litres litres (3| (31 pints, 41rus 4f pints) brown brown veal reduced by about one quarter. quarter. Thicken stock until reduced Thicken with with 1I blended with 33 tablespoons tablespoons c1ear tablespoon arrowroot blended tablespoon clear cold veal stock. Strain through aa fine sieve. a bainveal sieve. Keep warm in a marie. marie. This stock stock has has many many uses. uses. It It can be be added added to small small pieces pieces of This meat or or poultry poultry previously previously tossed tossed in in butter, butter, or or itit can can be be served served meat and pot pot roasts. roasts. as gravy gravy for for roasts roasts and as Tomato veal veal stock. stock. FoNDs FONDS DE DE vEAU VEAU roulrf TOMATÉ - To (31 Tomato - To 22 litres (3| pints, 4| 4t pints) pints) brown brown veal stock add add 22 dl. (t (~pint, scant cup) pints, pint, scant tomato pur6e. purée. Boil Boil down by by one quarter. Strain through througb aa tomato fine sieve. sieve. fine

White stock. stock. FONDS FoNDsBLANC BLANc - -Nourishing Nourishingingredients. White kg. ingredients.11-Llkg. (3+lb.) (shoulder),22ke.(4J,1b.) lb.) lean leanveal veal(shoulder), (31 kg. (4!- lb.) veal 2 vealknuckle knuckleand andl

poultrygiblets kg.(41b.) giblets or orbones kg. (4!- lb.) poultry bonesand andtrimmings. trimmings. Aromaticingredients. ingredients. 250 250g.g.(9(9oz.) Aromatic oz.)carrots, carrots, 250 250g.g.(9(9oz.) oz.) 150g.g.(5(5oz.) onions, 150 oz.)leeks, leeks,1I bouquet garni,150 150 g.g.(5(5oz.) onions, bouquet garni, oz.) celery. celery. Seasoning. 11l| tablespoons tablespoons (2(2tablespoons) tablespoons) cooking Seasoning. cookingsalt. salt. quarts,71quarts)water. Liquid. 7Tlitres litres(6(6quarts, 7}quarts) Liquid. water. These ingredients ingredients will give 55litres (4|quarts, quarts,51will give These quarts) litres(4i 5|quarts) stock. stock. Bone the the meat meat and Bone and tie tieitit up. up. Break Break the the bones bones into intosmall small pieces. Place Placethe the bones, pieces. bones,meat giblets ininaastock meat and and giblets pot.Add stock pot. Add Bring to liquid. Bring to the theboil, liquid. boil, skim skimand andseason. season. Add Add the thevegetables vegetables garni.Cook and bouquet bouquet garni. slowly for and Cookslowly for31 3jhours. hours.Remove Remove fat fatand and strain the the stock stock through strain through aafine finesieve. sieve. poultrystock. White poultry White stock. FONDS FoNDs BLANC BLANc DE DEVOLAILLE voLArLLe - -Proceed Proceedas as for White White stock, stock, but for but add add aachicken chickenor quantity muchlarger or aamuch larger quantity giblets or of of giblets or bones bones and and trimmings. trimmings. After Aftercooking, cooking, the thechicken chicken can be meat meat can be used used to to make make croquettes. croquettes.

(German pâtisserie) pitisserie) -- Ingredients. STOLLEN lb., 9 STOLLEN (~rman (2+1b.,9 Ingredients. 1I kg. kg.(2i ( I lb., 22cups) cups) cups) sifted sifted Hour, flour, 450 450 g.g.(lIb., (I8 cups)sugar, sugar, 33eggs, eggs,500 500g.g.(18 (2|oz., oz., oz., 2* 2f cups) cups) butter, butter, 60 yeast,200 60 g.g.(21(7oz., oz.,212| cakes) cakes)yeast, 200g.g.(7 oz., scant 1* cups) cup) chopped scant cup) (7oz., chopped almonds, almonds, 200 200 g.g.(7 oz.,lf cups)currants, currants, (7 oz., g. (7 200 200 g. oz., licups) l| cups) finely finely chopped chopped candied peel, 200 candied orange orange peel, 200 (7 oz., g.g. (7 li cups) o2.,1| cups) finely finely chopped chopped lemon peel,grated grated rind lemon peel, rindof of ij lemon, lemon, few (4 tablefew drops drops vanilla vanilla essence, essence, 33 tablespoons tablespoons (4 table2i dl. spoons) (scant iI pint, pint, generous spoons) rum, rum,2l generous cup) dl. (scant cup) warm warm milk, milk, 55 or powdered bitter or 66 powdered bitter almonds. almonds. Method. g. 01(l| lb., Put 750 Method. Put 750 g. lb., 66cups) cups) sifted sifted Hour flour into into aa bowl, bowl, make make aa hollow hollow in in the put in yeast.Sprinkle the middle middle and and put inthe theyeast. Sprinkle the the yeast yeast witb with sugar pour over sugar and and pour over the the warm warm milk. milk. When When the the yeast yeast begins begins to to bubble bubble mix mix ail all the paste. the ingredients ingredients into into aa paste. Coyer Cover this this with with aa cloth cloth and and set set near near the the fire. fire. While While itit isis rising, rising, wash wash the the butter butter in in water, water, squeeze sque€ze itit to to extract extract all all moisture, moisture, and dry itit with and dry \rith aa clotho cloth. Add Add the the sugar sugar and and eggs, eggs, and and work work the the butter butter until until itit becomes frothy. Add becomes frothy. Add the the rest rest of of the peel and the Hour, flour, currants, currants, peel and other other Havourings. flavourings. Blend Blend together together the the dough dough and and the the butter butter mixture, mixture, adding adding aa liule little milk milk but but not not too too much, much, because because this this paste paste should quite firm should be be quite firm in in consistency. consistency. Beat Beat weil well and set itit and set covered, covered, near the the fire fire to to rise. rise. Tum Turn out out on on to to aa Houred floured table table and form into into aa thick and form thick loaf. loaf. se for Leave Leave to to ririse for 15 15 minutes, place itit on minutes, then then place on aa buttered buttered baking sheet and baking sheet and brush with melted brush with melted butter. butter. Bake Bake in in aa low low oyen. Brush once oven. Brush once more more with with melted melted butter butter when when baked and baked and sprinkle sprinkle liberally liberally with sugar. sugar.

*

Modelling Modelling aa stollen stollen

900 900

STRAINER ST RAINER STOMACH. EsroMAc ESTOMAC

sweUing of the the digestive digestive -- The first swelling tube tube and and the the one one in in which which digestion begins. Ruminants Ruminants have OFF AL, Tripe.) four stomachs. stomachs. (See (See OFFAL, four Stomach hygiene. hygiene. All Ali nutritionists nutritionists agree that food food should Stomach weil masticated masticated in order order not to overburden the stomach. stomach. be well be Drinking Drinking too much much while while eating eating impedes impedes the digestion. STONECROP. rnteue-ulnltrrE TRIQUE-MADAME -- Common Common plant plant also also called STONECROP. called purslane, orpine has leaves somewhat resembling those those of purslane, orpine edible as as salad. salad, or when wh en cooked rather tasteless tasteless but edible rather cooked like purslane. purslane.

(Kel/er) kitchen (Keller) Gas stove stove in in schooJ school kitchen Gas

rid them flexible, but also to to rid them to render render the the corks corks more more flexible, but also not only only to impurities. of any impurities. of any riddle, and and leave leave for for 1I place them in aa sieve sieve or or aa riddle, them in Drain Drain and and place in 25 minutes minutes either either in Soak them them for for 25 dry thoroughly. thoroughly. Soak hour hour to to dry which good alcohol, nature for for which good alcohol, brandy, wine of of the the same same nature brandy, or or wine the are intended. intended. the corks corks are good quality quality wines, general, when corks wines, old old corks In In general, when bottling bottling good and scalded scalded shouJd avoided, unless have been been washed washed and should be be avoided, unless they they have when corking corking bottles bottles as above, and and only only used used when as described described above, containing wine for for immediate immediate consumption. consumption. containing wine

Stone-curlew

STONE-CURLEW. Gralof European European GralonotcNtur -- Genus of STONE-CURLEW. OEDICNÈME latoriae bird comprising aa dozen of They are are birds birds of dozen species. species. They medium size, plovers. Their meat meat is is tasty. tasty. StoneStonesize, similar to to plovers. curlews prepared like woodcock (q.v.). are prepared curlews are STOPPER. 'stopper' describes describes aU all The word word 'stopper' BoucHoN -- The STOPPER. BOUCHON objects glass, rubber pieces of cork, rubber or or any any other other cork, glass, such as as pieces objects such substance, cover to seal seal or or coyer in shape, used to round in usually round shape, used substance, usually bottles, carafes glass, china, china, receptacles, made made of of glass, carafes and and other other receptacles, metal or wood. Nowadays bottles, especially sealed are sealed bottles of of alcohol, alcohol, are especially bùttles with used for for are also also used stoppers are aluminium stoppers. stoppers. These These stoppers with aluminium wine gourmets stiU that cork cork still consider consider that wine bottles, bottles, although although gounnets makes makes the the finest finest stoppers. stoppers. The French word French old French is derived from the the old word bouchon derived from bouchon is word grass or formerly used used leaves, fonnerly meaning tuft tuft of of grass or leaves, bouscfre meaning wotd bousche as or stopper. stopper. as aa plug or The vent of probably coincided with coincided with cork stopper The ad advent of the the cork stopper probably that hemp stoppers stoppers Champagne when when the the oil-saturated, oil-saturated, hemp that of of Champagne were no longer longer adequate. adequate. were no The wine bottles extremely corks for for wine bottles isis extremely of choosing choosing corks The matter of important respect two two In this this respect as it it can can affect affect the the taste taste ofwine. of wine. In important as things with the the go wrong: tainted with can go wrong: the the wine wine may may become become tainted things can y smell foui mildew. smell of of mildew. cork or or acquire acquire aa must musty foul smell smell of of bad bad cork This detected before before very often cannot be be detected This deficiency deficiency in in cork cork very often cannot manufacture, In remedied. In wine cannot cannot be be remedied. and its its effect effect on on wine manufacture, and cork-producing years now now itit has has been been some years countries, for for sorne cork-producing countries, customary 'corky' and 'corky' into small small cubes, cubes, and to cut cut cork cork boards boards into customary to wine the examination of of the rare because because olfactive olfactive examination wine becomes becomes more more rare small pieces of and out and to sort sort out cork enables enables specialists specialists to small pieces of cork eliminate form of of use. In In the the form which are are unfit unfit for for use. eliminate those those which separate in much much better better cubes the the cork cork can can be be transported transported in separate cubes ventilated an in pieces in the case of of boards boards and and big big pieces conditions th than the case ventilated conditions of bark. In transported past itit happened cork, being being transported In the the past happened that that cork, ofbark. in cork the cork in stale air, often arrived atat the often arrived in the ship in stale air, hold of the hold of aa ship factory in aa deteriorated condition. factory in deteriorated condition. Corks and to the the touch touch and of fine bark, should be supple to Corks should be made made offine bark, supple without any defects. defects. without any Before which any which to eliminate eliminate any corks, sort sort carefully carefully to Before using using corks, are pour on water on boiling boiling water in aa bucket and pour not sound. sound. Place Place in bucket and are not and intended This operation operation isis intended to soak soak for for sorne some time. time. This and leave leave to

STOVE, DE CUISINE Apparatus FoURNEAU DE cuIsINE -- Apparatus KITCHEN. FOURNEAU STOVE, KITCHEN. heat made iron or metal, utilising utilising the the heat or sheet masonry, cast cast iron sheet metal, made of of masonry, the of in the the oyen ovenor or on on the fire for for the the cooking cooking of of food, food, either either in of aa fire gas or or heated are heated heated by by gas stoves are heated top. top. Most Most modern modern stoves electricity al. instead of kerosene, wood wood or or co coal. of kerosene, electricity instead STRACCHINO See CHEESE. CHEESE. STRACCHINO -- See

Strainers: gauze perforated metaJ wiregauze metaland andwire Strainers: perforated (Larousse\ (Larousse)

pAssoIRE - - Kitchen STRAINER. forstraining straining Kitchen utensil utensil used used for STRAINER. PASSOIRE sauces practical preparations. The The most most practical liquid preparations. and other other liquid sauces and strainer kind called called chinois. chinois. thecone-shaped cone-shaped kind strainer isisthe pAssAGEDES Straining pur6es. PASSAGE DEs DEsSAUCES, sAUcEs, DES of sauces saucesand andpurées. Straining of punEns - - Sauces PURÉES tammythrough aatammystrainedthrough Sauces are aretraditionally traditionally strained cloth (fine cheesecloth), people, each oneend end each holding holding one cheesecloth), by two people, by two cloth (fine of directions. twisting ininopposite opposite directions. thecloth cloth and andtwisting ofthe Two pur6esand peopleare andother other rubpurées neededto to rub alsoneeded Two people are also comparatively prep4rations through tammy-cloth. through aatammy-cloth. thick preparations comparatively thick Each lefthand hand thecloth clothininthe person holds theleft twisted end endof ofthe holds one onetwisted Each person and en spatula spatula pur6ethrough, wooden stoutwood usingaastout the purée through,using and rubs rubs the held right hand. hand. inthe the right held in

901 901

STRAINING BAG BAG STRAINING Some thin thin sauces sauces can can be strained through muslin without be strained Sorne twisting the the material. material.In In household household kitchens aahair hair sieve sieveisis twisting place of almost alalways usedin in place of aa tammy-cloth, tammy-cloth, and and aa fine fine almost ways used place ofmuslin. in place strainer in of muslin. strainer

berriesof of which whichthe thecommonest commonest variety isisthe theever-bearing ever-bearing berries strawberry, and large strawberries, whichcomprise great compriseaagreat many varieties. These are constantly being beingadded added totoby by crossings. crossings. popular of Themost most popular of the the large French strawberries are: The Surprisedes desHalles, Halles, Ladette, Indette, Madame Moulot, Moutot, Royal SovSurprise ereign, Gauthier, G aut hier,Laxton, Lax ton, Marie-France. M ar ie - Fr ance.French production, Frenchpn:>d1ucIJolrl, whichcovers coversaawide wide area, usuallyextends area,usually extendsfrom from 15 April toto1515 July. July. TheEuropean European strawberry strawberry cornes comes from The from the the Haubois Hauboisstrawstrawitsflesh berry: its flesh isisfinn firmand andfragrant. fragrant. AA closely related berry: related species speciesisis the Alpine Alpine strawberry. strawberry. The perpetual strawberry isisaavariety The perpetual the variety of this. ofthis. Large strawberries strawberries came came from from the Large the United United States States and and (Fragaria virginiana), Canada (Fragaria virginiana'), and (Fragaria Canada and from fromChile Chtle (Fragaria chiloensis). They They were were imported imported into chiloensis). intoFrance France by naval officer byaanaval officer named Fréziers, Fr6ziers, and and are are still named still cultivated cultivated today the region today inin the regionof of

STR.AII\ING BAG. BAG. CHAUSSE cHAUssE -- Funnel Funnel in in felt felt or used to orcloth cloth used to STRAINING particularly syrups. liquids, particularly clarify liquids, syrups. c1arify plrr,r"oN - Straw STRAW-CASE. PAlLLON wrapping in in which which boules bottles STRAW-CASE. - Straw wrapping are transported. This This straw, straw, after after treatment treatment in in boiling boiling water, water, is also used for for'dressing' the bottles. bottles. 'dressing' the

STRAWS. ALLUMETTEs -- Strips of puffpastry of puff cooked in in the the STRA WS. ALLUMETTES pastry cooked with different garnishes. (See also oven, with different garnishes. also ALLUMETTES.) ALLUMETTES.) oven, Anchovy straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLTJMETTES AUX puff AUx ANCHOIS ANcHors -- Coat Coat the the puff pastry with Fish (see FORCEMEATS) Fisft forcemeal FORCEMEATS) blended blended pastry forcemeat (see with Anchovy (see BUTTER, Anchovy butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). with Garnish each each strip strip with with an an anchovy anchovy fillet, fillet, trimmed trimmed and and Garnish desalted. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. desalted. Sfraws ài la la chalmmaise. chalonnaise. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTHT À A LA La CHALONNAISE cH,qloNNArsE -Straws Coat the the puff pastry with with aa Chicken (see Chicken forcemeat (see Coat FORCEMEATS) blended with with cream cream and very finely and with aa very finely chopped mixture mixture of cocks' combs, of cocks' combs, mushrooms mushrooms and and truffies truffies chopped added to to it. it. Bake Bake in in the the oven. oven. added Ctcese straws. sfraws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTES AU AU FROMAGE FRoMAcn -- Cheese Cheese straws, straws, Cheese which are are served served as as aa cold cold hors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvre and and as as an an acc:ornp,anlaccompaniwhich ment to to cheeses, cheeses, are puffpastry are made made of of puff with the the addition of of ment pastry with grated cheese finely grated cheese during during the last last rolling rolling out. out. The The straws straws are are finely placed on then cut, cut, placed on aa baking tray, tray, and and sprinkJed grated sprinkled with with grated then Parmesan. Pannesan. Creyfsh straws. straws. ALLUMETTES ALLUMETTEs AUX AUx CREVETTES cREvETTEs -- Coat Coat the the Crayfish puff pastry pastry with with finely finely minced minced Fish (see Fish forcemeat puff forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) blended with with Crayfish (see Crayfish butter butter (see FORCEMEA TS) blended BUTTER, Compound butters) butters) and and with with aa finely finely chopped chopped BUTTER, mixture crayfish tails added to it. Bake in the oven. of crayfish mixture of

Plougastel.

(also called Pine strawberries strawberries (also mon garden strawbercalled corn common strawberries) originating originating from from Carolina Carolina are are really really hybrids of of that that species.

The beautiful beautiful Madame Madame Tallien Tallien bathed in strawberry bathed in strawberry water water

to keep her her skin skin soft lb.) were (221b.) soft and and velvety. velvety. About About 10 l0 kg. kg. (22 were for each crushed for her baths. each of ofher baths. Fontanelle adored adored strawberries FontaneUe strawberries and and ate ate them them daily daily when when they were were in in season. season. they people are Some people Sorne are allergie allergic to to strawberries. strawberries. Cooking Cooking them them for for few moments moments in in boiling boiling water aa few water can can counteract counteract this. this. Strawberries must Strawberries gathered because must be be eaten eaten freshly freshly gathered because they do not not keep. keep. They They are do are used used to to make make aa soft soft drink drink and and for for the extraction of extraction of spirits. spirits. They They may may also also be pur6ed. be eaten eaten puréed. jam-making. Strawberries are used Strawberries are used for for jam-making. Bavarian cre Sfrawberry Bavarian SO'al'l'beIITV am - See V ARIAN CREAM. creamSee BA BAVARIAN CREAM. Cardinal strawberries. shawberries. FRAlSES FRArsEs CARDINAL cARDTNAL -- Arrange weil well chilled strawberries strawberries in chilled in aa fruit fruit dish. dish. Cover Cover them them with aa puree of sweetened sweetened purée of ripe ripe raspberries. raspberries. SprinkJe Sprinkle with with finely finely chopped chopped almonds. almonds. Strawberries Strawbenies in in cbampagne. champagno. FRArsBs AU cHAMrAGNE Sugared Sugared strawberries strawberries are are arranged in individual dishes or in a fruit dish and sprinkJed sprinkled with with Champagne. Chili Chill thoroughly. thoroughly. SO'lulrberry Shawberry compote J. I. COMPOTE coMporE DE DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Remove Remove stems stems and and clean the strawberries. strawberries. Add Add severa! several tablespoons tablespoons boiling boiling sugar sugar syrup. syrup. Let I-et the the fruit fruit soak soak in in this this syrup syrup for for sorne some time. time. Serve hot or cold. Strawberry Sfoawberry compote II. COMPOTE corvrpors DE g. DE FRAISES FRArsEs -- Cook Cook 250 250 g. (9 oz., (9 oz., generous cup) sugar and and 1I dl. dl. (f pint, 3 cup) water to the third degree (see SUGAR). Add to this syrup I kg. (2f lb.) large strawberries. Soak, covered, for! for l00 minutes. Strawberry Condé. Cond6. FRAlSES FRArsEs CONDÉ coNof -- SprinkJe Sprinkle the the fruit fruit with with sugar and kirsch. Leave to soak in aa cool place. Arrange in a pyramid pyramid in Arrange in aa border of of rice which has has been been cooked in milk with sugar and and vanilla and and bound with egg egg yolk. yo!k. It is then moulded in aa ring mould, mould, cooked in in aa bainbainmarie, cooled marie, cooled and turned out. Serve with a sweet purée puree of strawberries and raspberries. and raspberries. FRAISES A À r,c, LA cRirrdE CRÈME - Arrange Strawberries and Sfrawberries and cream. cream. FRAISES - Arrange strawberries in aa glass dish or or individual individua! dishes. strawberries dishes. Sprinkle with with sugar and cover with thick thick fresh cream cream or sweetened whipped sugar cream. cream. FRAISES rzARrNE TZARINE - Stand aa dish Strawberries Czarina. FRArsEn dish on on - Stand ice ice. Cover the bottom with a layer of of pineapple ice cream. ice. cream. Arrange large large strawberries, strawberries, soaked soaked in kummel kummel and and sugar sugar and Arrange and chilled, on on the the ice ice cream. cream. chilled, Decorate with with Chantilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS) CREAMS) piped Decorate through aa forcing forcing bag bag with with aa large large fluted fluted nozzle. nozz!e. Sprinkle with through candied violets. violets. candied Strawberry ice mixture. coMposrrroN COMPOSITION AUx AUX FRArsEs FRAISES pouR POUR Sfrawberry GLACES - Mix t litre pint, 2i cups) cups) strawberry strawberry pur6e purée cLAcEs $ litre (scant pint,2t

pArLLEs - Potato cut Ipncrtl,n/""'" STRAW POTATOES. POTATOES. PAILLES lengthways into STRAW very very thin thin strips, then deep-fried. (See POTATOES.) pdLLE -- Wines made from STRAW vrN DE DE PAlLLE from grapes STRAW WINES. WINES. VIN which are left to dry on straw straw mats for sorne some time time before before being which are pressed. Tbe vin (Ch6teau-Chalon) is of Jura (Château-Chalon) is very pressed. The vin de paille paille of well weil known. known.

STRAWBERRY. STRAWBERRY. nnusn FRAlSE -- Plant of of the rose family common throughout It began to be cultivated in the thirteenth throughout Europe. Europe. It be cultivated thirteenth century. six species of century. Five Five or or six of strawberries were were known. From of varieties have been From these these aa number ofvarieties been cultivated. culLÏvated. Strawberries are classified small groups: sm ail strawclassified into two groups:

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ffiffiffi Some varieties of strawberry : a. a. Margucrite; Marguerite; b. b. Reinedes quatre-saison; c. Louis Gauthier; d. Doctor c.e. Saint ",aUH Antoine; n.lHU"";. f. Viscountess H6ricart de Thurv

Morere:

902

STRITZEL STRITZEL ItIt isis essential essential not to allow allow the the lemon peel peel to boil with with the compote compote as the tbe taste will wiIJ be be entirely entirely different. different. Glac6 Glacé sfiawberry strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in caramel. caramel. lxfrnrqcss ALKÉKENGES crlcfBs CARAMEL - Open the fruit and roll in powdered GLACÉES AU cARAMEL gum gum arabic. Dip Dip into sugar sugar syrup syrup cooked cooked to to crack crack degree degree (see (see SUGAR). Take out out with a perforated perforated spoon spoon and place place on a marble or slab slab of ofmarble or on a lightly !ightly greased greased metal sheet. sheet. rExrNcEs Glac6 Glacé strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in fodant fondant icing. icing. lI ALKÉKENGES with Fondant cLAcfiFs FONDANT - Coat with Fondant icing icing (see (see ICING) GLACÉES AU FoNDANT whiten white, pink pink or yellow, yellow, flavoured with kirsch, kirsch, raspberry or pineapple pineapple essence. fruit stalk. Hold Open calyx and turn Open the thecalyx turn back back to form form a stalk. Hold the fruit fondant icing. Drain by the end of of the calyx and dip into hot fondant with icing sugar. Put and place on a tray sprinkled with Put into paper cases. jam. CONFITURE o'^l,lr6,rExcEs coNFITURE D'ALKÉKENGES Strawberry tomato tomato jam. g. (lt ke. (2i Ingredients. Ingredients. 1I kg. Q* lb.) strawberry tomatoes, 750 g. (l pint, pint, 21 2f cups) water. lb., Si 5| cups) loaf loaf sugar, 6 dl. (1 Method. Make Make a syrup of the sugar and water and add the removed. Bring to with their calyxes calyxes removed. strawberry strawberry tomatoes, with Remove scum as it forms. the boil. Remove forms . Boil for about 20 minutes. stove and leave thejam the jam to cool Draw the pan to the side of of the stoveand Draw jam. jars and seallike Fut into jars other jam. seal like any other a little. Put tomato syrup. symp. SIROP srRop D'ALKÉKENGESo'^alKfKENcEs Sfrawberry tomato Strawberry (3| (311b.) tomatoes, 11 l| kg. kg. (31 Ingredients.l* Ingredients. 11 kg. (J~ 1b.) strawberry tomatoes, (2f; pints, 3! lj litres (2i 3f pints) water. lb. 7 cups) sugar, 11 Put the into aa large saucepan. the sugar sugar and and water into Method. Put the strawberry tomatoes tomatoes in and and boil Bring to the boil. Drop tbe for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Drain in in aa fine fine sieve, sieve, or cheesecloth placed for it Measure with a saccharometer; it earthenware bowl. Measure over an earthenware (see SUGAR). 28' (see boil SUGAR). If the degree is lower, boil should register 28° an the syrup. Ifit If it is above 28', add add a little little water. water. Whisk Whisk an above 28°, down thesyrup. (6 tablespoons, cup) water water in in aa with 1I dl. dl. (6 scant 1-+ cup) tablespoons, scant egg white witb egg leaving itit whisk. Allow Allow the syrup syrup to clarify, clarify, leaving basin using an egg whisk. gently. simmering very very gently. of the stove, simmering for 20 minutes at the side of gradually Heat the the bottles bottles gradually through aa muslin Strain through muslin bag. bag. Heat Strain securely. and pour in the boiling boiling syrup. syrup. Cork Cork the the bottles, securely. and

with with! litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2! cups) cups) sugar sugar syrup syrup prepared prepared cold cold (see (see I litre SUGAR). Add Add the the juice juice of of 22 lemons lemons and I1 orange. Add to to SUGAR). this as as much much water water as as isis necessary necessary to to obtain obtain aa mixture mixture of of 16' 16° to this 18° density measured measured by by the the saccharometer. saccharometer. 18'density l'impératrice. FRArsEs FRAISES A À r'nrapinnrRrcE L'IMPÉRATRICE Strawberries à Pimperatrice. Prepare a dish of rice as as for Apricois tt à l'imp2ratrice l'impératrice (see (see Prepare APRICOT). Chill. ChilI. Just Just before before serving serving cover coyer the the rice rice with witb 250 APRICOT). g. (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) large strawberries sweetened with witb vanillaor plain plain sugar. sugar. flavoured or flavoured jamSee JAMS AND AND JELLIES. Strawberry jam Shawberry - See Strawberries with with liqueurs. liqueurs. FRArsEs FRAlSES ALrx AUX LIeIJEURS LIQUEURS - Remove Remove Shawberries sugar them in a dessert dish dish or clean strawberries and sugar stems, clean glasses. Sprinkle with with one one of the the following: following: in individual glasses. brandy, raspberry brandy, brandy, kumkirsch, maraschino, cherry brandy, mel, Fine Fine Champagne (best Cognac) or with some sorne other other mel, liqueur. Serve Serve chilled. chilled. liqueur. maltaise. FRArsEs FRAlSES A À LA rrrlrrusn MALTAlSE - Sugar Sugar Strawberries ià la maltaise. Sfrawberries strawberries, add orange orange juice juice and aa little little Curagao Curaçao and small strawberries, on ice. ice. Put Put this this mixture mixture into baskets made made of of the oranges cool on Arrange on a dish which the juice has been extracted. Arrange from which wi th crushed crushed ice. ice. covered with covered Iced strawberry mousse -- See ICE CREAMS AND ICES, mousses mous seline s. IIced ced mous se s or mousselines. Strawberry PULPE DE FRAISES POUR GLACES FouR GLAcES Sfrawberry pulp for ices. pulpn very ripe ripe strawberries through tbrough aa fine fine sieve. sieve. To 1I litre Rub very (l| pints, generous (scant (scant pint, pint, 2! 2| cups) ofthisjuice ofthisjuice add 1I litre litre (It quart) sugar syrup 35° measured by the saccharometer quart) syrup at 35o saccharometer (see juice of IIlemon. SUGAR) thejuice well. Place Place in a cburn churn SUGAR) and the lemon. Mix weil. freezer. freezst. put.pE DE Strawberry pulp for ices, bottled. CONSERVE DE PULPE for iceg coNsERvE DE FRAISES PouR POUR GLACES Make aa purée pur6e of fresb fresh strawberries FRArsEs cLAcEs -- Make and pass through through a very fine sieve. sieve. Add 250 g. (9 oz., generous (2f lb.) fruit. Mix thoroughly cup) thoroughly and put cup) sugar to each 1I kg. (2! into preserving preserving jars. Close Close jars and place in aa canning kettle. Coyer to Boil for 5 to minutes and and leave to to 6 minutes Cover with cold water. Boil cool out, wipe and and seal cool in the canning kettle. Take the jars out, them. Keep in aa cool place in a slanting position. Strawberry ratafia. as for ratafia. RATAFIA RATAFIA DE DE FRAlSES FRArsEs -- Proceed Proceed as Raspberry (see LIQUEUR) using ripe Raspberry liqueur (see ripe strawberries instead of raspberries.. of raspberries Strawberry sauce -- See See SAUCE, SAUCE, Dessert sauces. ·See SOUFFLÉS, Strawberry soufflé soufl6 --'See SOUFFLES, Sweet Sweet soufflés. souffiis. Strawberry tarts and tartlets ARTS, TTARTLETS. AR TLETS. tartleb -- See See T TARTS, Strawberries vINs DE DE dessert wines. FRAlSES FRArsEs AUX AUx VINS Strawberries with various dessert LIQUEURS strawberries. Dredge Dredge LIQLJEURS - Remove Remove stems stems and and clean clean strawberries. with glass dishes dishes or sugar. Arrange in individual glass or in in aa fruit fruit with sugar. Arrange in dish. sherry, dish. Sprinkle with with Frontignan, Frontignan, muscatel, muscatel, Madeira, Madeira, sherry, port or Marsala. Serve chilled. Serve chilled.

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petals off offthe stalk To take the the leaves leaves or or petais EFFEUILLER -- To STRIP. the stalk STRIP. EFFEUILLER globe artichoke if the the heart heart only only isis Thus globe artichoke is stripped stripped if of aa plant. Thus also stripped stripped such as as chervil chervil and and sorrel, sorrel, are are also used. Herbs, Herbs, such to be used. before use.

(Anstrian cookery) In Austria Austria the the stritzel stritzelisthe cookery) -- In STRITZEL is the STRITZEL (Austrian classic Christmas cake cake.. classic Christmas (9 oz., (2* lb., g. (9 250 g. oz., cups) sifted sifted fiour, flour, 250 kg. (2i lb., 99 cups) Ingredients. Ingredients.l1 kg. (i (2t oz., g. (1 g. (21 sugar, 15 generous cup) I 5 g. cup) sugar, cup) butter, butter, 66 eggs, eggs, 60 60 g. oz't cup) generous (scant pint, yeast, I litre pint, 2i 2| cups) cups) warm warm milk, milk, fresh yeast,! litre (scant oz., 1 cake) fresh oz.,lcake) raisins, 22lemons, oz., tf; cup) cup) each each sultanas sultanas and and raisins, nS g.g. (41 125 lemons, 11{ t Gi oz., pinch of pinch of grated nutmeg of salt, aa pinch nutmeg and and aa pinch teaspoons of grated teaspoons salt, powdered cumin. cumin. quarter of little the fiour, flour, aa little of the dough with with aa quarter Method. Method. Make Make aa dough yeast, salt, Leave nutmeg and and aa !ittle little butter. butter. Leave milk, the yeast, salt, sugar, sugar, nutmeg milk, the to to rise. rise. the to itit the the rest rest 'of bf the Knock back dough after after adding adding to Knock back the the dough raisins and and the raisins the eggs, remaining butter, butter, the fiour. flour. Add Add the eggs, the the remaining (see in the way as as for for Brioche Brioche dough dough (see sultanas and work work in the same same way sultanas and Leave to to rise rise keeping the fairly firm firm.. Leave mixture fairly DOUGH), DOUGH), keeping the mixture again. again. pieces -- 99 Divide itit into into pieces Knock more. Divide dough once Knock back back the the dough once more. medium and and 22 small. small. 4 large, 3 medium are needed to to make make aa stritzel: are needed stitzel;4large,3 plait pieces into same length length and and plait 'tails' of Make all these these pieces into 'tails' of the the same Make ail plait on Plait baking sheet. sheet. Plait the 4 largest. Lay Lay this this plait on aa buttered buttered baking the 4largest. place on Twist top of of the the first. first. Twist the medium-sized tails tails and and place on top the 33 medium-sized plaits. Stick the Stick the the ends ends smallest tails tails and and set set on on top top of of the the plaits. the 22 smallest together neatly. Leave Leave to to rise rise aa little. little. together neatly. caraway Brush little salt salt and and caraway with egg, egg, sprinkle sprinkle with with aa little Brush with seeds. Bake in in aa fairly fairly hot hot oyen. seeds. Bake oven.

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STRAWBERRY TOMATO. Fruit originating originating TOMATO. ALKÉKENGE N,rfrsNce -- Fruit lied Mexican in it isis ca It isis one one of of tomato. It in Mexico Mexico where where it called Mexican tomato. several plant physalis. The tomato plant several species species of The strawberry strawberry tomato of physalis. belongs to potato. and the the potato. to the the same same family family as as tbe the tomato tomato and Strawberry grows very in the south very weil tomato grows well in in France, France, in the south Strawberry tomato and husk tomato tomato or or It isis sometimes sometimes called called husk around Paris. Paris. It and around winter our yellow in in col colour cherry. The The fruit fruit isis the the size size of cherry, yellow winter cherry. of aa cberry, and parchmenthas aa sour-sweet sour-sweet taste. taste. It It isis surrounded surrounded by by aa parchmentand has like yellowish-grey in not open. in colour, does not open. which does like calyx, calyx, yellowish-grey colour, whicb Strawberry tomatoes are are used used in in confectionery. confectionery. Strawberry tomatoes Strawberry compote. COMPOTE coMporu D'ALKÉKENGES D'AIKEKENcES -tomato compote. Shawberry tomato Ingredients. ( I 8 oz., (21 lb.) g. (18 oz., kg. (2i lb.) strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, 500 500 g. Ingredients. 1I kg. 2icups) (] pint, pint, scant peel of sugar, 22 dl. water, peel of 1I lemon. lemon. 2| cups) sugar, dl. (1 scant cup) cup) water, Method. to the the boil boil Make aa syrup syrup of of sugar sugar and and water, water, bring bring to Method. Make and removed their their and add add the the strawberry strawberry tomatoes, tomatoes, baving having removed calyxes. Cook for for 55 minutes. minutes. calyxes. Cook Remove perforated spoon, to an an spoon, transfer transfer to Remove tbe the fruit fruit with with aa perforated earthenware put the peel in Boil in the the middle. middle. Boil and put the lemon lemon peel earthenware bowl bowl and down pour itit over the syrup syrup and and pour over the the fruit. fruit. down the 903 903

STROMATEUS STROMATEUS slicesor orfricandeau whichare arebraised llkefricandeauofofveal. braised likefricandeau slices veal. fricandeauwhich mayalso alsobe besmoked smoked like likesalmon. salmon. ItIt may Sturgeon ài lalaBrimont. Brimont. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN ÀALA rl BRIMONT snrlroNr - - Fillet Filletaa Sturgeon medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim the thefillets. fillets.Thread Threadanchovy anchovy medium-sized fillets into intothem. them. Place Placeininaabaking baking dish dish lined linedwith withafondue fillets a fondue of of carrots, onions onionsand and celery, celery, finely finelysliced slicedand andcooked cookedslowly slowly inin carrots, until very butter until very tender. tender. Cover peeled, chopped Coverwith with22peeled, choppedand butter and deseeded tomatoes tomatoes mixed mixed with with 44tablespoons tablespoons coarsely coarsely diced diced deseeded mushrooms. Surround potatoes cut Surround with with potatoes cutinto intolittle little balls with mushrooms. balls with ball-scoop, half half cooked cooked inin salted salted water waterand and drained. aa bali-scoop, drained. Moisten with with 1I dl. dl.(6(6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant cup)dry scant1f cup) Moisten drywhite white (2oz., wine. Dot Dot with with 50 50g.g.(2 oz.,* cup) butter, pieces. cutinto into tiny wine. i cup) tiny pieces. butter, cut Bake in in aacool cool oven, oven, basting bastingfrequently. frequently. Five Fiveminutes Bake minutesbefore before taking out oftheoven, of the oven, sprinkle sprinkle with with breadcrumbs ta king out breadcrumbs and andbrown brown lightly. Iightly. Stmgeonin Champagne. ESTURGEON EsruRGEoN AU Sturgeon in Champagne. - Skin AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMnAGNTSkin medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim Trim it. it.Stud aa medium-sized Stud with with truffies. truffies. Steep for Steep for hour in in aa marinade marinade of of brandy, brandy, salt, pepper. 1I hour salt, spices spices and and pepper. pan on Put the the fish fish in in aa pan grid. Moisten on aa buttered buttered grid. Put Moisten with with fish fish made with with dry dry Champagne, Champagne, boiled fumet boiled down down and and enriched enriched fumet made pint, scant with 22 dl. dl. (1 scant cup) cup)fine with frne mirepoix mirepoix made made of carrots, of carrots, $ pint, onions and and celery, celery, cooked cooked slowly slowly in onions in butter butter until until very very tender. tender. Bring to to the the boil boil on on the the ststove, ove, then Bring cook in in aa moderate then cook moderate oven, basting frequently. basting frequently. oven, Drain the the sturgeon. sturgeon. Glaze Glaze in in the Drain the oven. Place on oven. Place on aalarge large dish dish and surround surround with garnish indicated. with the the garnish and indicated. Moisten the the stock stock with (scant tI pint, with2| 21 dl. Moisten dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) cup) dry champagne. champagne. Boil Boil down. down. Add (scant I pint, dry Add 2+ dl. pint, generous generous dl. (scant clp) Espagnole (see SA Espagnole sauce sauce (see U CE) based cup) SAUCE) based on on fish fish stock, stock, carefully skimmed. skimmed. Boil Boil down. down. Season. carefully g. (4 (4 oz., Season. Add Add 100 100 g. oz., tt cup) butter. butter. Strain. Strain. Pour Pour over cup) over the the fish. fish. Sturgeon braised braised in in champagne Sturgeon champagne can plain in served plain can be be served in its its juice, or own juice, or with with various garnishes. Among own various garnishes. Among the the most most garnishes are suitable garnishes suitable are the the following: following: Chambord, Chambord, mushrooms, mushrooms, cucumbers, turtle, braised cucumbers, turtle, truffies. truffies. Curied sturgeon. stmgeon. ESTURGEON Curried EsruRGEoN AU AU CURRIE cuRRrE -- Cook Cook aa fillet fillet of of sturgeon weighing weighing about (li lb.) g. (Il sturgeon large about 800 800 g. lb.) in in butter, butter, with with 22large sliced onions onions and and aa bouquet garni. Season sliced bouquet garni. pepper Season with with salt, salt, pepper and 2 teaspoons curry powder. Drain and curry powder. Drain the put itit the sturgeon sturgeon and and put on aa serving serving dish. Keep hot. on pan juices with 22 dl. Dilute the panjuices (] pint, scant dl. (1 scant cup) dry white white cup) dry wine. Boil down. Moisten with wine. with 33 dl. pint, li dl. (| pint, lf cups) cups) Velouté Velout| (see SAUCE) sauce sauce (see SAUCE) based based on on fish fish stock. stock. Season Season with with 22 teaspoons curry curry powder mixed with 5 tablespoons (6 tabletablespoons (6 tablespoons) spoons) fresh fresh cream. cream. Boil Boil for for aa few few seconds. seconds. Add Add 33 tablespoons (scant i* cup) butter. butter. Strain this sauce pour over sauce and and pour over the sturgeon. sturgeon. Serve with Rice (see RICE). Rrce àit l'indienne l'indienne (see RICE). Fillets of sturgeon Boris. FILETS FTLETS D'ESTURGEON D'EsruRGEoN BORIS BoRrs -- Flllet Fillet a medium-sized medium-sized sturgeon. sturgeon. Trim the fillets. Steep Steep for 1t hour in in juice, salt, marinade of aa marinade of oil, oil, lemon juice, paprika and salt, paprika and spices. spices. Drain. Put them them in an ovenware pint, scant Put ($pint, ovenware dish lined with 22 dl. (1 scant cup) cup) dry duxelles mixed with chopped chopped chives. Moisten with 22 ($ pint, scant cup) dry white wine. Bring to the boil on the dl. d stove then cover cover and cook in the oven for for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Cover the fillets with coarsely coarsely shredded truffies. Pour the marinade pint, lf li cups) fresh cream. Moisten with 3 dl. (t over them. Moisten (f pint, cream. Dot with with tiny pieces pieces of of butter. butter. Finish cooking Dot cooking in aa cool oven, oven, basting frequently frequently with with cream. Serve Serve in the the ovenware basting ovenware dish. dish. Fricandeau of of stmgeon sturgeon ià la hongroise. FRTcANDEAU FRICANDEAU Fricandeau la hongroise. D'ESTURGEON A À r.,l LA soxcRorsE HONGROISE - Brown D'EsruRcEoN thick slice slice of of - Brown aa thick sturgeon in butter butter with finely diced diced onions. Season sturgeon Season with with salt, salt, paprika and aa bouquet bouquet garni. Moisten Moisten with 22 dl. (1 pint, scant paprika scant $ pint, cup) white wine. Boildown. Boil down. Add Add 33 dl. (t pint, llcups) li cups) Velouté cup)whitewine. (|pint, Veloutt sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based on fish stock. Finish Finish cooking cooking in in aa sauce butter to the sauce sauce and and pour pour it over over the the fish. oven. Add Add butter slow oven. fish. Serve with with boiled potatoes. potatoes. Serve FRICANDEAU D'EsruRGEoN D'ESTURGEON AU AU Fricandeau of ofsturgeon au jus. jus. rnrceNoEAu Fricandeau sturgeon au

Stromateus Stromateus

(Rudderfish). STROMATÉE STROMATEUS (Rudderfish). srRoMArEe -- Fish Fish of of warm warm STROMATEUS and temperate seas, inhabiting temperate seas, inhabiting the the Mediterranean, Mediterranean, where where itit isis and called stromatéefiatole, stromaftefiatole,lapuga, in Nice, Nice, and and lippa, lippa,in Sdte. Its Its called lapuga, in in Sète. flesh is is very very delicate prepared in delicate and and isis prepared in the the same way as as turbot same way turbot ftesh (q.v.). (q.v.). (Bavarian cookery) STRUDEL (Bavarian cookery) -- National National cake cake of of Bavaria. Bavaria. ItIt STRUDEL is made made of noodle pastry pastry with of noodle with extra extra butter butter and and isis rolled rolled out out as as is possible. thinly as as possible. thinly Divide the pastry into the pastry into squares squares and and spread spread each each with with aa Divide mixture of of diced diced apples, apples, butter, butter, currants currants and and chopped chopped mixture almonds, ftavoured flavoured with with cinnamon cinnamon and and aa !ittle little brandy. brandy. almonds, Moisten the the edges edges of of the the strudels, strudels, roll roll them, put into them, and and put into aa Moisten saut6 dish. buttered sauté dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with melted melted butter butter and and brown. brown. buttered Pour aa little little milk milk into into the poach, covered, the dish dish and and poach, covered, in in the the Pour The strudels oven. The strudels are are cooked cooked when when the the milk milk has has been been oven. absorbed. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with sugar sugar when when they they come come out out of of the the absorbed. and eat hot. hot. oven, and

2t

STUFF, TO. TO. FARCIR r,lncn -- To To fill fill with with farce farce or or other other mixture mixture STUFF, (pur6e, salpicon, salpicon, ragoût, ragofit, etc.) etc.) the the interior interior of of fish, fish, chicken, chicken, (purée, game, meat (slitting itit to meat (slitting pocket), hollowed to make make aa pocket), hollowed out out game, vegetables, etc.

t


Sturgeon Sturgeon

STLJRGEON. STURGEON. nsrunceoN ESTURGEON - Large Large migratory migratory fish, which lives in the the sea sea and and goes goes up rivers to spawn. spawn. This This fish fish was once plentiful plentiful in certain French rivers. It is now now rarely found found except in the the Garonne. In In Germany, Russia Russia and and the the Balkans, sturgeons st urgeons 6 to 77 m. (20 to 23 feet) long are quite quite often often caught. caught. There waters, the There are are two two breeds breeds to to be be found found in European waters, great great sturgeon sturgeon (called (called in in England England theroyal the royal sturgeon), sturgeon), and and the common common sturgeon. sturgeon. The The sterlet, sterlet, a fish much much prized prized in Russia, Russia, is a breed of sturgeon sturgeon caught caught in in the the Volga. Volga. Although Although ratherindigestible, rather indigestible, sturgeon sturgeon is is quite quite tasty. tasty. Those Those caught caught in in fresh fresh water water in in the the spring spring are are the the most most sought sought after. Sturgeons' Sturgeons' eggs eggs are are made made into into caviare, caviare, a highly highJy prized delicacy, delicacy, which which has has always always been been expensive. expensive. Vtsiga Vésiga isis another another product product of of the the sturgeon. It It is is much much used used in in Russian Russian cookery cookery and and is is obtained obtained by by drying drying the the spinal marrow marrow of ofthe the sturgeon sturgeon in in aa special special manner. manner. In ln Russia, Russia, where where the the sturgeon sturgeon isis highly highly esteemed, esteemed, itit isis eaten eaten fresh or salted. salted. In In France, France, sturgeon sturgeon isis cut cut into into steaks steaks or or thick thick fresh or

904 904

SUGAR SUGAR Subrics Subrics may may be be also also made made from from veal, veal, chicken, chicken, pork,

JUS - Cut a slice or or fricandeau fricandeau from a rather rather thick sturgeon rus (li to 2f 2i lb.). Thread with thin fillet weighing 800 g. to I1 kg. (l? Cook as for Vealfricandeau (see (see VEAL). VEAL). lardoons. Cook lardoons.

of

sweetbreads, sweetbreads, brains, tongue, tongue, left-over left-over fish, etc. etc. Foie Foie gras'wbrics. gras-subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE Fo{E FOIE GRASGRAS - Dice 2@g. 200 g. (7 oz., I1 a,ry) i cup) cup) foie foîe gras. Bind with a rnixture mixture of 75 g. (3 oz., ?..rp) flour, flour, I1 egg and and 4 4 or 5 tablespoons fresh fresh double double cream. cream. Season Season with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and spicesspices. Cook Cook as for Beef Beefsubrics. subrics. Potato subrics. subrics. suBRIcs SUBRICS DE DE poMMEs POMMES DE TERRE - Break up with a fork the flesh f1esh of of 6large 6 large potatoes potatoes baked baked in in their their skins skins in the oven. Bind with an egg and a little Bnharnel Béchamel sauce (see (see Some grated cheese may be added if SAUCE). Sorne if liked. Cook and serve as for Beef Beef subrics. Semolinasnbrics Semolina subrics -- See SEMOLINA. SPINACH. Spinach Soe SPINACH. Spinacb subrics- See

with

Fricandeau Fricandeau of sturgeon sturgeon with sorrel. sorrel. FRIcANDEAU FRICANDEAU D'ESTURGEON A À L'osEtLLs L'OSEILLE - Cook Cook as for Veal Vealfricandeau D'EsruRGEoN fricandeau (see VEAL) and serve serve with braised braised sorrel. VEAL) Sturgeon steaks in in cream. cream. DARNEs DARNES D'EsruncEoN D'ESTURGEON A À r.q LA cniur CRÈME Sturgeonsteaks - Skin the sturgeon and cut it into slices or steaks. Season Season

-

-

with salt salt and and paprika. Line Line a a baking dish with with chopped with tender. Lay Lay the onion, cooked slowly in butter until very tender. of sturgeon sturgeon on top. top. Moisten Moisten with with 22 dl. (j (j- pint, pint, scant cup) slices of slices

in the oven oven for white wine. wine. Bring Bring to to the boil boil on Bake in white on the stove. Bake l5 15 minutes. minutes. Pour Pouron thick fresh cream. cream. Dot with with tiny tiny pieces pieces of on thick butter. Finish Finish cooking cooking in the oven, oven, basting frequently. frequently. butter.

SUC -- Liquid obtained by squeezing SUC s-queezing an animal or vegetable vegetable substance, or by boiling boiling down some sorne kind ofjuioe. of juice. substance, or meat. suc Suc Suc of ofmeat. suc DE DE vIANDE VIANDE -- Name Name given given to much reduced runs from roast meat consomm6 consommé or or to the the juice juice which funs from roast meat;; also to juice juice pressed from raw meat.

SUBRlCS preparations served as as an'hors-d'Grwre, an hors-d'œuvre, SUBRICS -- Small preparations small entrte entrée or garnish. garnish. are a a variety of croquettes, but they they are are never never Subrics are They are coated in egg and breadcrumbs. They are cooked in butter butter in coated sauté pan, pan, not in deep fat. a saut6 Bind the basic ingredient, ingredient, cut into dice, with a mixture of Allemande sauce or Btchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and beaten Allemande egg. Season. Season 2t spoon, divide this mixture Using a spoon, mixture into 50 to 60 g. (2 to 2! oz.) pieces pieces and cook in a pan in clarified clarified butter butter or oil. Keep the subrics apart in the pan so that they can spread without running subrics, arrange running into each other. Drain the subrics, them circle on a dish and garnish with fried parsley. garnish with parsley. Serve them in a circle they are. with sauce, or as they subric mixtures are bound only with egg, sorne Some subric some have Sorne flour, cream cream or cheese added to them them.. Beef subrics subrics ài la m6nagire. SUBRICS DE BOEUF BoEUr À la ménagère. Beef susrucs DE A LA u ( I I oz., 2t ufulctnn -- Dice 300 g. (Il 2j cups) left-over left-over boiled beef. MÉNAGÈRE Put it into a basin and add 2 eggs beaten with 1I tablespoon of flour and 50 g. (2 oz.,! cup) grated Gruyère. Gruydre. Season with salt oz., j cup) pepper and mix weil. and pepper well. and oil or In a frying pan, heat equal quantities of butter and fat. Put the beef mixture into the pan, spoonful spoonful by cooking cooking fat. spoonful. Cook on both sides. Serve with Tomato sauce or Piquante Piquante sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

SUCEES - A of petit SUCÉES A type of petit fourmade four made as follows follows:: Mix together in a basin 250 g. (9 oz., oz., generous generous cup) sugar, 250 g. cup) buttea I 50 g. (5 oz., l{ cups) sifted g. (9 (9 oz., generous generous cup) butter, 150 licups) 250 flour 150 g. (5 oz., cup) finely chopped oz.,*i cup) f10ur and 5 egg yolks. Add 150 candied stiffiy beaten egg whites. candied fruit. Fold Fold in 5 stiffly whites. Make into round shapes shapes on a buttered and floured baking Make baking sheet. Bake in a hot oven. BARBTER -- Name applied to various types of fish SUCKER. BARBIER which (Lepadogaster de either a cup-shaped sucker sucker (Lepadogaster which have have either a cup-shaped Gounn), or a sharp sharp spine on a fin (perch). Gouan), (perch).

SUCRAGE-- French term for the process of of adding sugar to SUCRAGE grape juice during wine-rnaking. wine-making. (See WINE.) WINE.) grape juice during SUEDOISE -- A sweet dish made by arranging fruit, cooked SUÉDOISE in syrup, in layers in an aspic mould, which is then filled with liqueur-flavoured jelly. jelly. fruit or liqueur-flavoured sucRE -- Sweet substance extracted from Sweet substance SUGAR. SUCRE from many its chief sources are cane, sugar beet, plants; its are sugar cane, beet, sugar

(Centre d'étude Manufacture of ofsugar in the the 17th lTth cent century ditude pour l'utilisation lutilisation du du sucre) sucre) Manufacture sugar in ury (Centre

905 905

SUGAR SUGAR maple and and various various species palm.. There species of of palm are many There are many types types of of maple sugar with with various various molecular molecular structures. structures. The The most most important important sugar (cane sugar), are sucrose sucrose (cane (fruit sugar), sugar), levulose (malt levulose (fruit sugar), maltose maltose (malt are (milk sugar) sugar) and and lactose lactose (milk sugar).. sugar) History -- In In ancient ancient times, times, honey honey and and fruit fruit took place took the the place History ofsugar aU all over Europe. Sugar over Europe. Sugar canewas probably first grown cane was probably first grown ofsugar in India, India, in in the the Ganges Ganges basin, basin, and and then then in in China. China. The The word word in sugar seems seems to to have have been been derived derived from from the the Sanskrit Sanskrit word word sugar sarkara. sarkara. Greece and and Rome Rome imported imported sugar sugar as as aa luxury luxury commodity commodity Greece persians or asas aa medicament. medicament. In In the the fifth fifth century century the the Persians or discovered aa way way of refining syrup. of refining syrup. The The Arabs Arabs took took sugar sugar to to discovered Egypt, Rhodes, Rhodes, Cyprus, Cyprus, North North Africa, Africa, Spain Spain and and Syria. Syria. By By Egypt, the tenth tenth century century the the sugar sugar trade was established trade was established in in the the the Mediterranean, centred centred on on Venice. Venice. In In the the fifteenth fifteenth century century Mediterranean, Lisbon took took over over from from Venice Venice as as the the centre centre for for sugar sugar refining. refining. Lisbon With the the coming coming of of coffee coflee and and cocoa, cocoa, the consumption of the consumption of With sugar increased increased in in Europe Europe and and refineries refineries were were set set up up in in sugar Germany, France, France, Holland Holland and and England. England. By By the the eve eve of of the Germany, French revolution, revolution, Bordeaux Bordeaux had had 26 26 refineries refineries producing producing aa French fifth of of the the sugar sugar for for the the European European market, market, from from raw raw sugar sugar fifth cane imported imported from from the the Antilles, Antilles, Maurice, Maurice, and and Réunion R6union cane Islands. It It was was not not until until the the time time of Napoleon that of Napoleon that sugar sugar beet beet Islands. plantations were were developed developed in in France. France. plantations * Cane sugar sugar - Sugar Sugar cane, cane, originating originating in in India, India, then then the the Cane West Indies Indies and America, is and America, is Iike like aa reed reed with with aa spongy spongy marrow marrow West grows chiefly and grows chiefly in in tropical tropical and and sub-tropical sub-tropical areas. areas. It It isis the the and source of produced commercially. of about about half half the the sugar sugar produced commercially. The The source juice is pressed from the canes and is then subjected to a series juice is pressed from the canes and is then subjected to a series of treatments treatments to to free free it it from from impurities impurities.. The The molasses is taken of molasses is taken from the the sugar, sugar, leaving yellow sugar, leaving a sugar, known known in from a yellow in Great Britain Demerara as Demerara sugar. sugar. This This sugar sugar is is crushed crushed fine fine and is and is Britain as known as brown sugar. Further Further processes of refinement known as brown sugar. processes of refinement remove the produce granulated, the colour granulated, castor, colour and and produce castor, icing icing remove (confectioner's) and and lump sugar. (confectioner's) lump sugar. Beet sugar sugar --ln 1747 aa Gennan German chemist, chemist, Margraf, discoIn 1747 Margraf, discoBeet vered sugar in One of in beet beet juice. juice. One of his his followers, followers, a a French French vered sugar refugee set up refugee named named Achard, Achard, set up an an experimental experimental factory factory but but had success. His but was was started started had no no financial financial success. His business business failed failed but again in France at the again in France at the instigation instigation of of Napoleon Napoleon at at the the time time of of the sugar by the Continental Continental blockade. blockade . Manufacture Manufacture of of sugar by this this method developed from from that method developed that time time until until it it became became a a big big industry. industry. At first, sugar was to be be At first, beet beet sugar was said said to to have have aa bad bad taste taste and and to less than cane cane sugar. sugar. It It was was alleged alleged to to have have less sweetening sweetening than various various defects defects and and itit was was necessary necessary to to show, show, by by experiment, experiment, an an absolute absolute chemical chemical identity identity between between the the sugar sugar from from beet beet and sugar consumption of of beet beet sugar sugar and sugar from from cane cane before before consumption became became generally generally accepted. accepted. It It is is now now almost almost as as large large aa source source of sugar as ofsugar as sugar sugar cane. cane. Different Different sorts sorts of of refined refined sugar sugar -- Granulated Granulated sugar sugar is is obtained obtained by by purifying purifying the the sugar sugar obtained obtained from from beet beet or or cane. cane. The The sugar sugar isis dissolved dissolved in in water water and and treated treated for for impurities. impurities. The The solution solution is is then then evaporated evaporated and and crystallised crystallised to to give give crystals crystals of of the the required required size. size. produced Castor sugar is in process Castor sugar is produced in the the same same way way but but the the process is is altered altered to to yield yield smaller smaller crystals. crystals. It It can can also also be be produced produced by by grinding grinding down down granulated granulated sugar. sugar. Icing Icing sugar sugar results results from from crushing crushing granulated granulated sugar sugar to to produce produce aa fine fine powder. powder. Loaf Loaf or or cube cube sugar sugar is is made made by by pressing pressing damp damp granulated granulated sugar sugar into into moulds moulds and and then then drying drying itit to to make make the the crystals crystals stick stick together. togetber. Brown sugar is sugar with the molasses removed but but itit isis Brown sugar is sugar with the molasses removed otherwise otherwise unrefined. unrefined. It It is is obtained obtained by by crystallising crystallising from from the the syrup ofthe the refining refining process. process. There There isis an an syrup remaining remaining at at the the end end of even even less-refined less-refined type type ofsugarcalled of sugar called vergeoise vergeoise in in France. France. Sugar candy is manufactured by the Sugar candy is manufactured by the slow slow crystallisation crystallisation of of

Sugar model model orthe of the Merchandise Merchandise Mart Mart in in Chicago, made by an Chicago, made an American American cook Sugar

sugar syrup. syrup. This This contains contains aa certain proportion of certain proportion of invert sugar sugar. It It isis used used in in the manufacture manufacture of of Champagne wines. sugar. When heated heated to to the the crack crack degree, degree, lightly lightly coloured coloured and When acidulated, it it becomes becomes barley barley sugar, sugar, or or apple sugar if itit is sugar if acidulated, left transparent. transparent. If If this this sugar sugar is is pulled it takes takes on on aa silky left pulled it appearance. True True barley sugar used used to be manufactured from appearance. concoction from from barley, but this this is rarely done these aa concoction these days. Properties ofsugarof sugar - Sugar melts (320'F.) and, on 60'C. (320°F.) melts at I160°C. Properties cooling, takes glossy appearance on aa glossy (barley sugar, appearance (barley sugar, candy cooling, takes on sugar) but tends aCter after a to resume crystalline sugar) but tends a while while to resume its its crystalline structure. If If itit is straw-colour, structure. is heated heated further, further, it it becomes a straw-colour, then brown, forming caramel at 180"C. (356"F.), then brown, forming at 180°C. (356°F.), becoming dark caramel caramel at at 190°C. 190"C. (374'F.), dark (374°F.), black black jack jack at at 210"C. 210°C. (410"F.): it decomposes. decomposes. (410°F.): finally finally it Sugar is easily soluble in Sugar is easily in water water which, which, when when cold, can dissolve dissolve double double its its own weight weight of of sugar. sugar. Solubility increases with with rising rising temperature temperature and and saturated saturated solutions solutions would would contain: contain: C. F. C. F. per cent ofsugar at 0o 64.18 64'18percentofsugarat 0° (32") (32°) 64.87 per cent ofsugar percent ofsugar at 5o 5° (41') (41 °) 64·87 65'56 sugar at 10' 65·56 per per cent cent of ofsugar 10° (50') (50°) 66'33 66· 33 per per cent cent ofsugar of sugar at l5' 15° (59") (59°) .09 per cent of sugar at 20' (69') 67 67·09 per cent ofsugar 20° (68°) per cent of sugar at 25' 67'89 67'89percentofsugarat 25° (77") (77°) 68'70 68· 70 per per cent cent of of sugar sugar at at 30" 30° (86") (86°) 69'55 of sugar sugar at at 35' 35° (95') (95°) 69·55 per per cent cent of 70'42per 04") 70-42 per cent cent of of sugar sugar at 40" 40° (104°) 7l'32per cent of sugar at 45° 45" (113°) 3') 71·32 percent ofsugarat per cent ofsugar at 50" 22") 72'25 n'25percentofsugarat 50° (122°) per cent ofsugar at 55" 73'20 31') 73'20percentofsugarat 55° (l3I°) 74'l 8 per cent of sugar at 60' 40') 74'18percentofsugarat 60° (140°) 75'18 49") of sugar at at 65' 65° (149°) 75·18 percent per cent ofsugar 776·12 6'12 per cent of sugar at 58") percent ofsugar at 70" 70° (158°) 77.27 67") 77·27 per per cent cent ofsugar ofsugar at at 75" 75° (167°) 78'38 76') of sugar at at 80" 80° (176°) 78·38 per per cent cent ofsugar per cent ofsugar at 85' 79.46 85") 79-46percentofsugarat 85° (185°) 80.61 94") 80·61 per per cent cent ofsugar ofsugar at at 90' 90° (194°) 81.77 81 ·77 per per cent cent ofsugar of sugar at at 95" 95° (203") (203°) 82.97 82·97 per per cent cent ofsugar of sugar at at 100" 100° (212) (212°)

As quantity of of sugar sugar dissolved dissolved in in aa given given volume volume of of As the tbe quantity water water isis increased increased so so the the density density of ofthe the solution solution increases increases and and the the boiling boiling point point is is raised. raised. These These factors factors provide provide aa means means of of classifying classifying sugar sugar solutions solutions and and syrups. syrups. 906 906

SUGAR previous previous stage itil must must be be watched walched very very carefully for for itit will will pass pass rapidly rapidly through through the the last last stage stage and and turn lum into inta caramel. caramel. The The above is repeated. repeated . The The sugar sugar should should form form very very brittle brittle above test test is strands SI rands which which break break without wilhout bending bendiog ifif itit has has reached reached the the hard hard crack crack degree. degree. Caramel: Caramel,' When When the lhe sugar has has arrived at the the hard hard crack crack degree few seconds seconds for for itit to to become become caramel. caramel. It lt degree itit takes takes only only aa few is is comparatively comparatively easy easy to to recognise recogoise when when sugar sugar has has turned turned into into caramel. caramel. The The sugar sllgar becomes becomes light lighl golden then Ihen the the colour deepens to giVe give aa dark dark brown brown syrup. syrllp. When When cooled cooled the the sugar sugar isis deepens to very very brittle brittle and and breaks breaks easily. easily. As As soon as the the desired desired degree is is obtained, the the saucepan must mUSI be taken away from From the heat and the the sugar sugar kept at the same of the stove. same temperature on on the the edge edge of Some nappe to to designate designate a degree degree Sorne writers writers use the the term term dil la nappe which which precedes precedes small smalJ thread. thread. Others Others distinguish distinguish certain certain intermed.iate intermediate degrees degrees between between the thread degree and the ball little souffi6 degree, degree, these these being being called called small smail pearl, pearl, large large pearl, pearl,little soufflé and large sugar boils, boils, large souffiE. soufflé. At the small pearl degree the sugar forming formiog itself jlself into into small balls, like likc pearls. peRris . At the large pearl degree the pearls beUer formed and more separated. separated . At At pearls are better the the souffi6 soufflé degree small small balls balls detach themselves lhemselves from from the skimmer skimmer when one blows blows across across its ils holes after having dipped itil in the Ihe syrup. In the the large large souffi6 soufflé degree degree the bubbles bubbles are like snow-flakes. snow-fiakes. To identify these various degrecs degrees or density one can use use aa saccharometer or Baumd Baumé sugar weight-scale weight-scale which which is is graduated degrees usually registered 00 to lO 44o. 44°. The degrees registered on the uated from 0" Baum6 saccharometer, and their equivalents Baumé thermometer or saccharometer, on Fahrenheit and Centigrade Centigrade scales are as follows:

Food value va1ue of of sugar sugar -- Sugar Sugar isis aa reasonably reasonably pure pure carbohydcarbahydFood rate food. food. Itft has has aa high high calorific caloritic value: value: 100 100 g. g. (3* oz.) oz .) of of sugar sugar rate yields therefore aa very very concentrated energy energy yields 393 393 calories. calories. ItIt isis therefore readily absorbed absorbed and and leaves leaves practically practically no no foodstuff which isis readily foodstuffwhich to its its rapid rapid assimilation, assimilatioo, sugar sugar restores restores resîdue. Thanks to residue.

Oi

in very quickly, quickly, though though only for for a limited limited time, time, in energy very subjects exhausted exhausted by by fatigue. fatigue. This This has has been been shown by by tests tests subjects carried out out on on different different armies. armies. carried necessary therefore therefore to to consider consider sugar sugar as a condiment, condiment, ItIt isis necessary eaten frequently. frequently. For For an energy energy food food and and something somelhing which which isis eaten an culjnary purposes, purposes, sugar sugar is is used used for for sweet sweet dishes, dishes, conculinary ragoûts, etc. etc. Sugar Sugar boiled fectionery and for making making sauces, sauces, ragottts, fectionery used as a colouring agent agent for soups, to the the caramel degree is used to stocks and sauces. stocks Sugar boiling boiliog -- Only Only good good quality sugar sugar should be be used used for Sugar is the the most most suitable cooking . A heavy-based heavy-based saucepan saucepan is cooking. cooking utensil. cooking is necessary to proceeding with with sugar boiling it it is Before proceeding prepare a syrup by dissolving a certain quantity quanlity of sugar sugar in third of of its its weight weight of ofwaler. The mixture mixture is put over heat water. The one third should be be thoroughly dissolved dîssolved before the and the the sugar should and to the the boil. boil. It ft is is skimmed carefully carefuJ)y to 10 solution is brought to remove the impurities impurities of the sugar sugar which wh.ich rise to the surface. surface . remove c1eaned occasionally with a The sides of the pan should be cleaned pastry brush brush to remove any any scum seum which wh.ich has clean, damp damp pastry il is boiling otherwise collected. Do not stir the syrup while it cause graining. solution and cause crystals will form in the solution crystals prevenling sugar graining is is to add A further method of preventing g. (18 oz., 2i 2| cups) 125 g. (4 oz ., I1 cup) glucose for every 500 g. oz., sugar. sugar. small bubbles hubbles close together, logether. produces smal1 When the boiling produces From then on it is important to (0 cook.. From the sugar has begun to cook at the cooking at watch the syrup carefully carefully in order to stop the cooking degree. required degree. the sugar passes caramel degree, the Before arriving at at the the caramel are designated designated by by the stages, which which are through through six six different different stages, small bail, ball, large thread, smal! following terms: small small thread, large Ihread, this degree the sugar a)) crack, hard crack. Beyond this small ball, sm caramel. becomes caramel. by the degrees can determined by be detennined various suga( can be The sugar degrees The various practice can can easjly easily following indications indications which after careful practiœ be recognised. gloss or teaspoon, or smallthread. small thread. Using a teaspoon, Firs First( degree: small gloss place solution ution and pl ace it in aa cup of cold take aa liule little of the sugar sol thumb and and the thumb cooled sugar sugar belween between the water. water. Hold Hold the the cooled gently apart. short pull gently The formation formation of of short apart. The forefinger forefinger aod and pull degree. small thread degree. at the small threads indicates indicates that the sugar is at gloss or large Ihread. degree : large gloss Second degree: thread. Continue boiling Second preceding lesl for aa short short while, while, then then carry test again. carry out out the the preceding for sugar is pulled between the thumb and forefinger itit When the sugar form longer, stronger This shows shows that that the should form the stronger threads. This should sugar is al at the large thread thread stage stage.. sugar Third degree: degree : small the syrup syrup for for aa little little longer longer Boil the Third small bail. ball. Boil in aa testing for for this stage. stage. Place I teaspoon of of the the syrup syrup in before lesling cup of of cold cold water. water. The The sugar sugar should form aa small small bail ball wh when cup en should form rolled belween between the thumb and and fingers This indicates indicates lhat that the the fingers.. This rolled reached the small sugar degree. sugar has (eached small bail ball degree. Fourth degree: degree: large Boil the the syrup syrup for for aa short short while while ball. Boil Fourth large bail. previous test. repeat the the previous which isis formed formed then repeat The baH ball which test. The then still malleable. malleable. This This fingers should should be be nrmer firmer but but still between the Rngers that the indicates that the large large bail degree has reached.. indicates ball degree has been reached Fifth degree degree:: small small crack crack.. Continue the syrup syrup for for aa Fifth Continue boiling the little longer, longer, then then dip dip aa teaspoon into the the syrup syrup and and Iittle teaspoon into immediately into into co cold water. The The cooJed cooled sugar sugar from from the the Id water. immediately will harden harden immediately immediately to This spoon spoon will to form form aa brittle brittle thread. thread. This will bend thread will pressure isis applied, bend and and then then break thread break jfif pressure applied, indicating lhat that the the sugar sugar isis at at the indicating crack stage. stage. the small small crack Sixth degree: degree: hard hard crack. crack Once Once the sugar has has arrived arrived at at the the Sixth the sugar

Names Small thread or Smalllhread small gloss Large Large thread or large gloss pearl Small Sm ail pearl Large pearl Large (blow) Souffi6 (blow) Soufflé Large soufflé souffi6 Large

(feather) (feather) ball Small bail Large baIl ball Large Crack Light caramel caramel Dark caramel

Density degrees degrees

OF O F

30" 30°

cC "C 101' 1010

214' 214

30" 30

103' J03'

217' 217

0

33' 33° 35' 35°

37" 37" 37° 38" 38° 39" 40' 40" 37~

39~

0

0

0 0 103'-105' 217',-221" -221 ~ 103 -105° 217 107' 224'0 224 c 110' 230' 110 230 lll'0 111 232"

JOr

0

116" 24J 241'o 116 l2l'0 250"0 121 250 0 149"-150" 300'-302' 149 -1500 300°-302° c 150' 302' 150 302 0

0

The crack crack degree degree cannot registered on cannot be be registered on the the Baumé Baum6 The can be recognised on on thermometer but various other degrees can graduated from special thermometer, graduated from 100°C. 100"C. to to 175°C. 175"C. aa special (212F. 10 347"F.) to 347°F this apparatus, apparatus, which is is used in the the used in (212°F. .) With this of confectionery, confectionery, itit is is easy easy ta to distinguish distinguish one one manufacture of point very degree from from another another up very close close to caramel. up (0 to aa point to caramel. degree

t

Lightcrack Light crack Medium crack crack Hardcrack Hard crack Extra hard hard crack crack Extra Caramel Caramel

oc. oc.

oF. "F.

0 0 264" 129" 129 264 271'0 133' 133 0 271 0 143" 289'0 143 289

168' 334 334"0 168° 0 356" 180' 180 356 0

given for sugar must must he instructions given The instructions for tbe the boiling boiling of of sugar be The carefully. The The intervals intervals hetween the variolls various stages stages observed carefully. between the observed in the the cooking cooking are are very very short. short. The The sugar sugar used used lO to obtain obtain aa in perfect boiling grade. boiling must must be first grade. be nrst pcrfect prepared in prepared cold syrup prepared When sugar in cold -- When Sugar syrup sugar syrup syrup prepared Sugar quantity of is used, is necessary check the the exact exact quantity of advance is used, itit is necessary to to check advance 907 907

SULTAN.HEN SULTAN-HEN sugar and and water water that that itit contains, contains. Here Here are are two two small small tables tables sugar which enable enable one to recognise recognise both one to quantity ofsugar both the the quantity of sugar and and which quantity of the quantity water corresponding of water corresponding to to the Baumé Baum6 scale, scale. the ( lf pints, generous quart) sugar solution : For llitre I litre (I~ For pints, generous quart) sugar solution'

pith which white pith which isis immediately peel, because immediately under the because this the peel, this is is white very bitter and and spoils spoils the the fruit fruit ftavouL flavour. very 'As the the surface surface of of the the sugar sugar becomes becour-es coloured, coloured, scrape scrape itit 'As knife to peel which becomes stuck with aa knife to rem remove stuck to to itit by by with ove the peel repeated rubbing, rubbing. Recommence the operation operation with the sa same me care. Dry Dry the the sugar sugar in in aa 10w low oyen, oven, or or al at the the open open door door of of aa care, warm oven, press through aa fine sieve, oven. Crush Crush il it and press sieve. warm 'For Seville Seville orange, orange, lemon, lemon, citron citron or or mandarine sugar. sugar, 'For proceed in in the same same way,' way.' procced Orange flower flower sugar. sugar. SUCRE sucRE DE DE FLEURS FLEURs D'ORANGER D'oRANGER -Orange Proceed as as for for Anise sugar with (9 oz.) with 250 g. (9 250 g, oz.) orange orange flower Proceed petals which which have have been g. (18 (18 oz., been dried, dried, and oz., 2f, cups) and 500 500 g, cups) petais sugar. sugar. peel sugar. Orange peel sugar. SUCRE sucRE AU AU ZESTE D'oRANGE -- Prepare zEsrE D'ORANGE Orange peel in with orange orange peel in the sa same peel wgar. as for for Lemon sugar. with me way as Lemon peel (Car0me's recipe). Perfumed sugar sugar (Carême's recipe). SUCRE sucRE ODORÉS ooonns -- 'The Pcrfllmed pastrycooks in the shops use use distiJled distilled essences essences slIch such as that of of pastrycooks in lemon, bergamot, bergamot, rosewater, rosewater, orange flower water and powand powlemon, dered orris, orris. These are used to flavour used to flavour their their sweet sweet cakes and dered biscuits. biscuits. 'The true pastrycook in true pastrycook in the these perfumes 'The the home home rejects these perfumes and flavours his his sweets sweets with with the the pleasant natural tastes tastes of of and flavours plcasant natural orange, Seville Seville orange, Jemon, lemon, orange ftowers, flowers, coffee, vanilla, orange, green anise anise or or saffron, saffron. green Vanilla sugar. SUCRE sucRE VANILLÉ vaNrrrf -~ Split 60 60 g, vanilla oz.) vanilla Vanilla Q oz,) e. (2 pods chop them fineJy, finely. Put into into a mortar with g. (18 with SOO 500 g, pods and chop oz:, 44 cups) lump pound finely. lump sugar and pound through a fine fine oz., finely, Press through sieve. sieve,

Degrees Baumé Baumt Welght Weight of of sugar sugar Degrees (l oz,) g. (1 20 g, oz.) 1lo 20 2" (l+, oz,) g. (li 40 g, 2' 40 0

3" 3° 5o 5°

l0' 10°

15" 15° 2l'° 21 25" 25°

27" 27'

(2 oz,) g. (2 60 g, oz.) 60 (4+. oz,) g. (4-1: 120 g, oz.) 120 (9 oz,) g. (9 250 g, oz.) 250 ( 18 oz,) g. (18 500 g, oz.) 500 (25 oz,) g. (25 750 g, oz.) 750 (31 oz,) g. (31 875 g. oz.) 875 (35 oz.) g. (35 1000 g. oz) 1000 (41 oz,) g. (41 1225 g, oz.) 1225 (42 oz,) g. (42 1250 g, oz.) 1250

2i

29" 29° 3l' W (2i1b.,2|cups) For 1I kg. sugar: For kg, (2~ lb" 2-1: cups) sugar:

Degrees Baumt Weight Weight ofwater of water Degrees Baumé (lfoz.) 50g. 32' 50 g. (l oz,) (2 oz,) g. (2 70 g. oz.) 30° 70

32" 30' 25" 25° 22" 22 e 20' 20 19" 19° e 18' 18

i

(4j oz,) g. (41 100 g, oz.) 100 (3j OL) g. (3! 130 g, oz.) 130 (5joz.) 150g. ISOg. (51 OZ,) (6 oz.) t70 g. (60z,) 170g,

(7 oz,) g. (7 200 g, oz.) 200

There are two other other methods of classifying classifying syrups, one of of There are two methods of which is to note the temperature temperature at point. The at boiling The other other is which is to note the boiling point. to density of of the the syrup syrup with with aa hygrometer to determine determine the the density hygrometer gives the which density based the density based on on the content. There There is which gives the water water content. is special also a also a special syrup syrup measuring measuring instrument instrument from from which which aa simple reading of the strength of of the sugar solution solution can can be simple reading of tlle strength the sugar taken. ta ken, The can also also prove The following following points points can prove useful:2kg. useful: 2 kg, (+1b.,9 (41 lb" 9 cups) sugar sugar dissolved I litre generous quart) l| pints, cups) dissolved in in 1 litre ((là pints, generous quart) cold water quantity of 34'. The The same same quantity of sugar water measures measures 34°. sugar dissolved dissolved in in hot only measure measure 32o. hot water water would would only 32°,

poulr SULTAN SULTAN-HEN. POULE suLrAN -- Web-footed aquatic bird, SULTAN-HEN. prepared same way as the coot. prepared for for the table table in the same SULTANE set in of SULTANE -- Large pastry pastry set in the middle of a pattern pattern of lattice-work lattice-work sugar, surmounted by spun sugar plumes. plumes, (A LA) SULTANE (À applied to various preparations. SULTANE LA) - Name Name applied preparations, Velouti la sultane Velouté de de volaille volaille d à la sultane is is a a soup finished off olT with pistachio butter. All called à d la sultane sultane are charactcrcharacterpistachio butter. Ali dishes called ised generally in of pistachios, form of of ised by by the the inclusion inclusion of pistachios, generally in the fonTI pistachio pistachio butter. butter. The name The name d à la sultane sultane is also used for for sweets sweets and pastries, pastries, for and bavarois for example example apricots apricots itil la sultane, sultane. and havarois itil la sultane. sultane,

FLAVOURED FLAVOURED SUGARS SUGARS USED USED IN IN CONFECTIONERY. CONFECTIONERY, pAUSSERIE. sucnss eMproyEs sNr pArrssEnrr, EN coNFrsERtE PÂ TISSERIE, SUCRES EMPLOYÉS EN PÂTISSER lE, EN CONfISERIE Anise sugar. sucRE Anisesugar. SUCRE D'ANrs D' AN1SDry 50 50 g. g, (2 (2 oz.) oz,) anise, anise, wrapped - Dry

SUMMER SVMMER SMPE SNIPE or or SEA-LARK. SEA-LARK. ALouErrE ALOUHTE Ds DE r,rpn MER- Plover

of waders, which of the order order of ofwaders. which hunters hunters call cali sandpipers. sandpipers, Its Ils flesh ftesh is is quite quite delicate. delicate. All Ail recipes recipes given given for for woodcock woodcock are applicable to to summer summer snipe. sni pc,

in in paper, paper, in in aa warm warm oven. oven. Pound Pound finely finely in in aa mortar mortar with witll 500 SOO g. g, (18 (18 oz., oz" 2f 2± cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Sift Sift through through a a fine fine sieve. sieve. Keep Keep ini in a well-stoppered well-stoppered jar jar in in aa dry dry place. place, Anise Anise sugar sugar is is used used to to make make petits petitsfours, as are are all ail flavoured f1avoured fonrs, as sugars. sugars, Cinnamon Cinoamon sugar. sugar. sucRE SUCRE A À Ln LA c,tNNilLe CANNELLE -- Proceed Proceed as for for Vqnilla Vunilla sugar sugar (see (see below), below), replacing replacing the the vanilla vanilla with with I1 thin thin stick stick of of cinnamon. cinna mon, Chop Chop the the cinnamon, cinnamon, mix mix with with I1 tabletablespoon spoon castor castor sugar sugar then then pound pound with with another another tablespoon tablespoon castor castor sugar. sugar. Sift Sift through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve, Pound Pound the cinnamon cinnamon remaining remaining in in the the sieve sieve with with another another tablespoon tablespoon of of sugar sugar and and sift. si ft. Clove asfor Clove sugar. sugar. sucRE SUCRE DE DE GTRoFLE GIROFLEProceed as for Anise Anise sugar sugur - Proceed with with 20 20 e.(ioz.) g. (~oz.) cloves cloves and and 500 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., oz" 2| 2* cups) cups) sugar. sugar. Ginger Ginger sugar. sugar. sucRE SUCRE DE DE GTNGEMBnn GINGEMBRE -- Proceed Proceed as as for for Anise Anise sugar with 30 30 g. g, (l (1 oz.) oz,) ginger ginger and and 500 500 g. g, (18 (18 oz., oz" 2f 2* cups) cups) sugar with sugar. sugar. Icing king sugars sugars and and pastillage pastillage - See See ICING, 1ClNG, PASTILLAGE. PASTI LLAG E, pare enough Lemon Lemon peel peel sugar. sugar. sucRE SUCRE AU AU zEsrE ZESTE DE DE crrRoN CITRON -- Pare enough lemons lemons to to yield yield 60 60 g. g, Q (2 oz.) oz,) lemon lem on peel. peel. Dry Dry this this peel peel in in the the shade shade and and chop chop it. it. Put Put into into aa mortar mortar with with 500 500 g. g, (18 (18 o2.,4 oz., 4 cups) lump cups) lump sugar. sugar. Pound. Pound, Press Press through through aa fine fine sieve. sieve, Orange Orange sugar sugar (Car6me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). srrcRE SUCRE D'oRANGE D'ORANGE -'Take - 'Take some sorne sweet sweet Maltese Maltese oranges oranges with with very very fine fine skins. skins, Grate Grate the the peel peel with with aa lump lump of of sugar, sugar, but but lightly, lightly, so so as as not not to to reach reach the the

SUMPTUOUS. SUMPTUOUS. soruprrunx SOMPTEUEX -- That That which which is magnificent magnificent and and which which costs costs a great great deal. deal. In In gastronomy, gastronomy, sumptuousness sumptuousness is not not always always synonymous synonymous with with culinary culinary perfection. perfection. SUNDAES SUNDAES (ICED (ICED COUPES). COUPES). coupEs COUPES cLActEs GLACÉES - Composite Composite sweet sweet with with ice ice cream cream as as the the main ingredient, ingredient, served served in glass glass or silver silver ice-cups; ice-cups; for for this this reason reason they they are are called called coupes in France. France, The The glasses glasses are usually usually filled fiJied with with one or or more more kinds kinds of of ice ice cream cream and and decorated decorated with with fresh fresh or or crystallised fruit, fruit, or with Chantilly Chamilly cream cream (see (see CREAMS). CR EAMS), Sundaes Sundaes may may be be presented presented in in aa great great many many ways. ways, The The coupe coupe Jaques Jaques is is regarded regarded as as the the classic classic sundae. sundae, Recipes Recipes for for this this and and other otller iced iced coupes coupes are given given in in the the section section on on ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND ICES. ANDICES, Sundaes 511ndaes ià la la c6venole. cévenole. coupEs COUPES cLAcEEs GLACÉES A À r-n LA cEvrNoLE CÉVENOLE -Make ctps) Vanilla Make It litre litre (scant (seant pint,2t pint, 2i cups) Vani/la ice ice cream cream (see (see ICE ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND AND ICES). lCES), Whisk Whisk enough enough cream cream with with sugar sugar to to make make 33 dl. dl. (j (i pint, pint, lf li cups) cups) Chantilly Chantilly cream crewn (see (see CREAMS). CREAMS), Break Break 250 250 g. g, (9 (9 oz.) oz,) marcons marrons glacts glacés into into tiny tiny fragments fragments and and steep kirsch. steep them them for for 30 30 minutes minutes in in aa glass glass of ofkirsch, To To serve; serve; line line the the bottom bottom of of the the ice ice cream cream glasses glasses with with marrons marrons glacy's. glacés, Top Top with with aa smooth smooth layer layer of of vanilla vaniHa ice ice cream. cream. 908 908

TABLE THE TABLE SUPERSTITIONS OF OF THE no is no There is was discovered. discovered. There ofJudas there there that the treachery of Judas was elsewhere. need need to worry worry if if numbers numbers total total thirteen thirteen elsewhere. idea young son no idea son having having no spoon - Your Misplaced Your young Misplaced fork fork and and spoon

may fork and and spoon spoon may of aa fork of the misfortunes the misplacing of

plate. his plate. crosswise on on his spoon crosswise fork and and spoon engender, engender, places places his fork possible that the is possible that the for itit is immediately, for Destroy Destroy this fatal sign immediately, him. The The poison and eventually kill him. eventually kill him will will poison food food you you serve him

Andrew's form of of aa Saint Saint Andrew's in the the form and spoon, spoon, in crossed fork crossed fork and good to our forebears. forebears. cross, presaged no good you with slice of of tender tender with aa slice served you host has served Spilt sa1t salt -- Your host Spilt juicy. You gravy with with aa whet the the gravy to whet beef, beef, thick and juicy. You decide to capsize inadvertently capsize the salt cellar but inadvertently salt. You grasp the little salt. is disquiet disquiet suddenly there is it. The The salt spills on to the table and suddenly grains and and the scattered scattered grains of the few of round. Quickly collect aa few all round. ail the Salt was was the keep away away eviJ. evil. Salt to keep shoulder to fling them over your shoulder fting the other other at at person offering itit to to the each person symbol of friendship, each the not to to capsize capsize the It was was essential essential not the meal. meal. It the beginning of the disagreement. sign of of disagreement. been aa sign have been which would would have salt cellar, which salt present, give aa knife as as aa present, care not to give Likewise, one took great care for it would break the friendship. after of an an egg egg after the shell shell of to break break the one to Ought one Egg shell -- Ought Egg past. It It isis in the its roots roots in the past. has its This custom custom has contents? This eating the contents? eating writers. modern writers. and modem ancient and referred to by ancient was it. The The egg egg was great importance to il. importance to attached great The Romans attached both that was was both substance that nature, aa substance of nature, as an an emblem emblem of regarded as magicians that magicians were convinced convinced that People were sacred. People mysterious and and sacred. mysterious drawing them and and drawing emptying them incantations, emptying in their their incantations, used eggs eggs in used power had the the power These had the shell. shell. These inside the from inside characters from magic characters the evil evil to destroy destroy the the shell shell to crushed the harm. One One crushed cause m much to cause to uch harm. pierce itit with knife, or or with aa knife, to pierce was enough enough to Occasionally itit was spell. spell. Occasionally times. rap itit three three times. to to rap of daughter of Julia, daughter an augury. augury. Julia, used as as an also used Eggs Eggs are are also son. desired aason. pregnant by Tiberius, ardently ardently desired by Tiberius, Augustus, being being pregnant Augustus, placed an an she placed realised, she would be be realised, desires would that her her desires To make make sure sure that To was When she she was carefully. When warmed itit carefully. and warmed egg in her her bosom bosom and egg in continued gave itit to wet nurse nurse who who continued to aa wet it, she she gave obliged to remove remove it, obliged to fortunate was aa fortunate The omen precious warmth. omen was warmth. The to to impart impart the the precious the desires desires of of not disappoint disappoint the and did did not to Pliny, Pliny, and one, one, according according to male and aa male young cock from the the egg egg and princess: she cock from the she had had aa young the princess: husband. child child from from her her husband. turned life, isis turned of life, the staff staff of If bread, bread, the Upside-dowu bread -- If Upsidedown bread demands to bread bread demands Respect due due to death. Respect upside down itit signifies signifies death. upside down position on the table, table, on the in such such aa position that never be be in should never that itit should result. will result. otherwise misfortune will otherwise misfortune the drink itit there there isis the bottle - If you drink The last drop in the the bottle-Ifyou of wine in Thelast drop ofwiue you are year or, are or, ifif you you will within the the year marry within chance will marry that you chance that knows No one one knows you will daughter. No have aa daughter. already will have married, you already married, the Perhaps itit isis the long forgotten. forgotten. Perhaps why. has been been long why. The The reason reason has costs said, costs like daughters, daughters, itit isissaid, symbol poverty. Marriage, Marriage, like of poverty. symbol of man man dearly. dearly. the spilt on on the used to to be bespilt Spilt little wine wine used In Rome, Rome, aa little wine -- In Spilt wiue gods. ItIt isis therefore therefore aa table the gods. in honour honourof ofthe repast in table before before aa repast will hopeswill gesture, an one hopes whichone lucky an expression expression ofgratitude of gratitude which lucky gesture, be rewarded. be rewarded. (taken manual) 1830 manu ken from al) -BlossOmiDg from an an 1830 of the the viDe vine (ta Blossomingof what casks?And Andwhat 'Does their casks? wines to 'Does itit cause toferment ferment inin their cause the the wines jams ferment? ferment? about and jams liqueurs and fruit? Does Does itit make make liqueurs other fruit? about other your redcurrant, redcurrant, 'Y ou assure that your 'You assure me, me, mademoiselle, mademoiselle, that jams jellies, your plumand blackcurrant your cherry, apricot jams andapricot cherry, plum blackcurrant jellies, jarswhenever ferment andblackcurblackcurredeurrant and whenever the the redcurrant in their their jars ferment in yourgarden garden begin toftower. flower. rant begin to trees, etc., etc.,ininyour cherrytrees, rant bushes, bushes, cherry placeinin phenomenon takes Your takesplace same phenomenon atteststhat that the thesame Your butler butler attests from your Youconclude concludefrom yourcasks when the thevine vineisisininblossom. blossom.You casks when the this wineand andthe connection between betweenwine there isisan anevident evident connection this that that there blossoming preservesand theblossomblossomand the vine; between of the thevine; between preserves blossoming of ing out sendout flowers send that these these ftowers treesand and bushes; ing fruit fruit trees bushes; that jamsand corpuscles them andmake makethem with the thewine wine and andjams which rnix mixwith corpuscles which ferment. ferment.

Raspberry sundae sundae

piped Decorate ghces and cream piped and Chantilly cream Decorate with with marrons glacés through aa forcing bag. through

SUNDEW. ROSSOLIS plant whose leaves leaves can can be RossoLIS -- Aromatic plant eaten as as salad, or cooked. SUNFLOWER. annuus, This plant, Helianthus Helianthus annuus, rounNnsol -- This SUI\FLOWER. TOURNESOL originally into was introduced introduced into Peru, was and Peru, from Mexico Mexico and originally from Europe by the Spaniards. mainly in in cultivated mainly Spaniards. Nowadays it is cultivated southem and ltaly. Italy. Poland and southern Russia, Poland From aa nutritional point of must differentiate differentiate view one one must of view nutritional point between only which are are only and others others which species and between certain certain edible edible species valuable for their oil. oil. Sunftower and seems seems to to fatty acids acids and in essential rich in essential fatty Sunflower oil oil isis rich bring about the lowering level. ltIt isis aa cholesterol level. of the the blood cholesterol lowering of valuable aid from atheroscJerosis. atherosclerosis. of sufferers sufferers from aid in the diets diets of Sunftower popular in in Russia Russia and and are especially especially popular seeds are Sunflower seeds Poland, where They are are an an almonds. They nibbled like like almonds. they are are nibbled where they excellent food. energy food. excellent energy SUPERSTITIONS DE suPERsrIrIoNs DE THE TABLE. TABLE. SUPERSTITIONS OF THE SUPERSTITIONS OF ways been TABLE - There with connected with been superstitions superstitions connected TABLEThere have have al always eating. remain aa mystery. mystery. others remain explanation; others eating. Sorne Some have have an an explanation; We well not so so weil few, weil well known known and and not We have have chosen chosen only only aa few, known, se superstitions give aa general general idea form the these superstitions of the the forro idea of known, to to give took, with old linked with old superstitions linked have not not included included the the superstitions took, but but have wives' nor the sick, sick, nor and curing curing of of the the care care and wives' tales tales concerning concerning the those the These are are outside outside the with witchcraft. witchcraft. These connected with those connected subject here. subject dealt dealt with with here. Unlucky to dine. dine. some friends friends to You have have invited invited sorne Unlucky tbirteeu thirteen -- You There to were unable unable to two were have been been fifteen, fifteen, but but two There ought ought to to have attend. guests. you have have thirteen thirteen guests. to find find that that you You are are appalled appalled to attend. You Make person or the thirteenth thirteenth or ask ask the fourteenth person Make haste haste and and find find aa fourteenth not to die die sure to these thirteen, thirteen, one one isis sure not to come; for, for, among among these to come; before year isis out. the year out. before the ltIt was Easter. One Oneofthem of them who celebrated Easter. was thirteen thirteen apostles apostles whocelebrated betrayed number thirteen thirteen himself. The The number hanged himself. his master master and and hanged betrayed his isis therefore persons there who one who there isis one among thirteen thirteen persons therefore unlucky; unlucky; among isis aa traitor man. potential hanged hanged man. traitor and and aa potential The was table, for for itit was dangerous at at table, number thirteen only dangerous The number thirteen isis only

909 909

SUPPORT 'Allow me to your views. By to am amend By aalaw law of of nature, nature, aasingle single 'Allowme end yourviews. cause reacts reacts identically identically on on two two bodies bodies which which have have the the same same cause dispositions. Thus Thus two two strings strings of of an an instrument instrument that that are are in in dispositions. need only unison need only aa single single vibration vibration to to reverberate reverberate together. together. unison During the the blossoming period of blossoming period of trees trees and and vines, vines, the air isis at at the air During the right temperature exactly the temperature to to ferment ferment whatever whatever substances substances exactly are prone to relm(~nt.atl.on fermentation;; its its action action may may ex extend to the the wine, wine, tend to even though itit isis enclosed enclosed in in casks, casks, and your berries and to to your berries pots. The although they are are in in pots. phenomenon you you refer The phenomenon refer to to in America occurs in America and and Asia Asia as as itit does does in in Europe Europe and and at at occurs precisely the the same same moment moment des despite the different different seasons seasons in in pite the those llatitudes. Now, would you have would you have itit that that the vines of the vines of (1LlLU,UO;;;;,. Now, France, of of the the Canaries, Canaries, of of Spain Spain send send corpuscles corpuscles to to Asia Asia and and France, to make make the America to the wine wine ferment? ferment? Would you have Would you have itit that that America these swarms swarms of of corpuscles leave leave our our shores, shores, cross the seas, seas, cross the these in thousands of searching in places until of places until they find find the the precise searching cask of wine analogous to of wine to them? them? The The famous Sir Sir Digby cask supported this paradox, but but he he oruy only wished wished to fun of us. to make make fun supported is we we who end, itit is who have have made made fun fun of him.' of him.' In the end, Saint ~t,,,,n" Stephen's cabbageIt isis said said that that St. St. Stephen hid .."n',, cabbage - It hid in in aa field of of cabbages to to escape escape martyrdom. martyrdom. For For this reason reason Itit ISis field to eat eat this this excellent excellent vegetable vegetable on on St. St. Stephen's Stephen's inadvisable to dayday. Does melon melon make (from aa book make one one feverish? feverish? (from book of of the the Does century) -- 'The 'The origin of of the the melon melon isis rather rather nineteenth century) Was itit brought brought to to us us by world world conquerors like like so so obscure. Was fruits that enrich gardens and decorate enrich our our gardens decorate our our many other fruits perhaps discovered tables? Was Was it it perhaps discovered during during the the conquest conquest of of tables? and Metellus? It It was was not not raised raised here Africa by the Scipios and in here in temperate zones, zones, under under our our cold cold and and c10udy cloudy skies. our temperate skies. !ts Its delicate temperament, the the attentive attentive care care itit demands, delicate demands, the the precautions it calls for, ail proclaim it aa foreigner who all proclaim precautions who has has not not naturalisation. yet acquired his right of naturalisation. 'Under aa thick thick outer outer skin skin itit hides hides valuable valuable and 'Under and distindistinguished "Like aa gui shed qualities;. and as a man of great wit declared: declared: "Like rough diamond, the the more more rough rough and rough and rugged rugged its its outward outward appearance, the better better it is." 'Pliny acknowledged acknowledged that its fiesh flesh is fine, delicate and sweet 'Pliny sweet but also pointed out that it was difficult to digest, and and made its effect felt next morning. However, he attests that there there is nothing harmful in the melon despite the fact that at least two nothing harmful emperors have died as a result of emperors of eating eating too much of it. 'Blame must not laid on 'Biarne not be be laid on the melon for the the autumnal fevers that crop up at the end end of September, September, but on certain atmospheric conditions tbat that remain something of aa mystery. It dangerous to eat it wh It would would be dangerous en perspiring heavily, just when as as it it would be dangerous to to drink cold cold water water under under such circumstances. circumstances. If the melon were responsible producing responsible for nr,.-.rll1l"',no autumnal autumnal fevers then the rich would suffer most, since it is they they who eat eat most most melons; but such such fevers are more more common among those those who eat very few melons and and among country people who hardly hardly ever see see one.' one.'

with half-melted half-melted butter. procedure was butter. The The recog]lis(~d recognisednr'\l"prl,,,rp with wastoto pipe the the croûtons cro0tons supporting supporting cold foods with coloured pipe coloured butter. butter. The above above bases basesand and mounts mounts should should oruy The only be beused used ifif the the recipe specifically specifically requires them. them. The The simplest simplestarrangements arrangements are the most most attractive. are

SUPRtMESSeeCHICKEN, CHICKEN, Suprêmes SUPRî.MES - See Ali the Suprhmes of ofchicken. chicken.All the preparation given methods of given inin that of preparation methods that section section are are also also partridge and to suprêmes game birds. applicable to suprdmes of of partridge applicable and other othergame birds. SLiRESNES -- The The vineyards vineyards of planted in SURESNES ofSuresnes Suresnes were wereplanted in918 918 by the the priests of of the the abbey abbey of by of Saint-Germain-des-Prés, Saint-Germain-des-Pr6s, squires ofSuresnes by by the the grace of Charles III. ofCharles III. The principal vineyard, called called 'des 'desSeigneurs', Seigneurs', covers l8 covers 18 arpents (59,000 square square metres). arpents metres). Others Others followed, followed, and and atat the the 1789, there census of 1789, perchplanted cens us of there were were 42 42 arpents planted arpents and and Illl perch with vines. vines. with Between the the end Between end of of the the nineteenth nineteenth century and the of the the twentieth beginning beginning of twentieth century, century, this this light, bitter, sligbtly wine had qualities that had made its laxative had 10st laxative wine lost the the qualities past. in the rerlUt:lticm reputation in the past. There isis constant constant mention mention of of the the petit vin de Suresnes of Henri IV which which Henri IV was was so fond. King King Henry had a delicate so fond. palate and palate and the the acid acid wine wine of of the the Seine at the foot foot of Mont Seine at of Mont Valerien Valerien could could not not begin begin to to compare compare with with the the delicate delicate wines wines served served at at Court. Court. There There seems some confusion seems to to have have been been sorne confusion place of over the place over the of origin. ItIt was was definitely not the definitely not the wine wine of of Suresnes that the the 'Vert-Galant' loved Suresnes that well but loved so so weil but that that of of Surène, Surdne, from from the the name name of of aa vineyard vineyard situated situated near near Vendôme, Vend6me, which which still still exists exists today. today.

SW ALLOW. HIRONDELLE - In SWALLOW. HTRoNDELLEIn spite spite of of the the fact fact that that swallows swallows protected birds are are protected birds in in France France they they are are still still sometimes sometimes eaten eaten in in the guise of the guise of spit-roasted spit-roasted 'smaU 'small birds'. birds'. The nests of The nests of the the salangane or Far-Eastern sea-swallow, or Far-Eastern sea-swallow, which which these these birds birds make make by regurgitating gelatinous subregurgitating aa gelatinous substance stance contained contained in in their prized as their crops, crops, are are highly highly prized as food food by (The jelly produced the Chinese. produced by Chinese. (Thejelly the birds comes from by the birds cornes from the seaweed seaweed on on which they feed.) So-called 'swallows nests' they feed.) So*alled 'swallows nests' are are sold sold in in Europe, Europe, but but these these are are sometimes sometimes made made from from agaragaragar. agar. Salangane nests are Salangane swallows' swallows'nests are not not used used in in China China solely for solely for the preparation of the celebrated nest soup. ofthe celebrated birds' birds'nest soup. They They are are also also used used as as garnishes for various dishes, dishes, taking the the place of of cocks' kidneys, mushrooms cocks'combs and and cocks' cocks'kidneys, mushrooms and and truffies in in composite ragoûts ragoitts (see NESTS, Swallows' Swallows' nests). nests). SwaJJows' nest soup Swallows'nest soup CONSOMMÉ coNsomd AUX NrDs D'HIRONDELLES o'tnRoNnErrEs -Arx NlDS Make (see SOUPS Make aa Chicken Chicken consommé consommi (see SOUPS AND AND BROTHS), BROTHS), rich in nourishing ingredients, . and and very clear. clear. Meanwhile, soak the nests nests for for 22 hours in in cold cold water water in in order to to swell the sticky substance substance of they are which they of which are made. made. After, it has After-it has been been soaked, soaked, this this substance substance should should be be transtransparent. Clean parent. Clean the the filaments filaments of nests very of the the nests very carefully, carefully, removing all all debris debris such such as as feathers, feathers, sheUs shells and and other other impurities. Blanch tbe the nests nests in boiling boiling water for 55 to to 66 minutes. minutes. Bring the consommé boil and consommi to the the boil and put in the the nests. nests. Simmer Simmer gently for 45 45 minutes. During cooking, cooking, the nests disintegrate the nests disintegrate into into thin gelatinous filaments. The The sticky sticky substance substance which which held held them them together gives the soup its its characteristic characteristic viscous viscous texture. texture. In China, this soup is made with with duck duck stock. stock. It It isis usually usually served in tiny porcelain cups.

SUPPORT or PRESENTATION PRESENT A TION BASE. BASE. SUPPORT suppoRr OU ou FOND FoND DE DE DRESTIAGE DRESSAGE -- Piece Piece of of food used in the presentation of of hot bot or cold dishes. The base base or mount for hot dishes is is usually aa cro0ton croûton of of a sandwich loaf loaf cut to the shape and size size of the piece of of food food that that is to be be placed placed upon it. These cro0tons croûtons are are fixed in mixture of of egg egg white white and flour fiour on the in position position with aa mixture heated heated serving dish. dish. Their Tbeir r6le rôle is is to to raise raise the the principal item of of food food sufficiently to to allow allow the the garnishes garnishes to be be arranged around attractively. itit attractively. Formerly the the mounts mounts were were made made of of pounded, cooked rice rice Formerly which desired shape and decoratively decoratively which was moulded moulded to the desired trimmed. trimmed. croûtons are also used used for for the presentation presentation ofcold of cold Bread crottons Bread that are are slightly raised raised in order order to to accommodate the the foods that foods garnish. garnish. They They are are trimmed trimmed to to aa decorative decorative shape shape and and spread spread

SWAN. CYGNE cycNB -- Graceful web-footed lamellirostrum, lamellirostrum, tame tame the Middle Ages it wild. In the or wild. Middle Ages it ranked peacock in ranked with with the the peacock in providing a a sumptuous roast providing roast at at state state banquets. It It was was being impaled on the spit. carefully plucked before being spit. After After in its its feathers and brought cooking, it was dressed in brought cercer910 910

BEET WHITE BEET SWISS CHARD. WHITE SWISS puRfE DE Potato Prepare like like Patata PATATEs - Prepare DE PATATESSweet potato pur6e. PURÉE purte(see POTATOES). for as for Prepare as DE PATATES PATATES -- Prepare sALADE DE salad. SALADE Sweet potato salado SALAD). P o t ato salad (see SALAD). Patata 500 g. Cut 500 L'fruvEr -- Cut potatoes. PATATES PATATES À A L'ÉTUVÉE sweet potatoes. Stewed sweet Stewed potatoes into Put into into aa saut6 (generous 1I lb.) into slices. slices. Put lb.) sweet sweet potatoes (generous (6 tablespoons, ~cup) (2 oz., g. (2 dl. (6tablespoons, oz., tcup) 50 g. butter, 1I dl. pan with 50 f cup) I cup) butter, and sirnmer simmer cover, and the boil, to the salt. Bring Bring to boil, coyer, and aa pinch of of salt. water and piled in vegetable dish. dish. in aa vegetable Serve piled minutes. Serve for 30 minutes.

emoniously camphor or emoniously to the table with aa piece pie ce of blazing camphor wick wick in its beak. Nowadays swan swan is regarded regarded as too oily and leathery leathery for the connoisseur. connoisseur.

known as CHOUX-NAVETS - A root vegetable, also known SWEDE. cHoux-NAvErs preparation for the Swedish for turnip turnip. All Ali methods of preparation Swedish turnip. (q.v.) are are applicable to swede.

SWEETBREAD. rus - N ame of b. lamb. SWEETBREAD. rus-Name of the thymus of of calf and lam parts, of This organ, situated at the top of of of the chest, is in two parts, which one, round in shape, is called in in French the noix, and and the noix, the other, other, more more elongated and the and less less regular, regular, is is the the throat sweetbread or gorge. The sweetbread The flesh of and of the sweetbread is white and rather soft. Chemical analysis of of this substance shows that it gelatine contains 33 times more more albumen albumen and 4 to 5 times more gelatine than beef and only half half as much fibre. lambs' sweetbreads are Calves' and lambs' the are considered considered to to be be the (See OFF most delicate delicate products AL or products of most of butchery. OFFAL or butchery. (See VARIETY MEATS.) VARIETY

pArArEs ENTREMETSENTREMETSPOTATO DESSERTS. DESSERTS. PATATES SWEET SWEET POTATO DE PATATES PArArEs (Cr6ole cookery). cATEAU DE cookery). GÂTEAU Sweet Sweet potato pudding (Créole in unsalted unsalted potatoes in skins in in their their skins Boil 55 sweet sweet potatoes DOUCES Doucrs -- Boil peel, and to aa mash them them to and mash drain, peel, are cooked, cooked, drain, When they they are water. water. When vanilla or vanilJa sugar or paste. Add vanilla-flavoured sugar fine Add sorne some vanilla-flavoured fine paste. in aa Stir in of flour, stirring vigorously. Stir essence and 1I tablespoon tablespoon offlour, essence and at aa time, reserving 1I egg in 44 eggs, one one at little Break in milk, Break little milk. and fold fold into the stiff froth, froth, and to aa stiff white. Whisk the the egg egg white to white. Whisk and light. light. mixture to to make make itit smooth smooth and (5 oz., have been been g. (5 raisins which which have Add 150 g. cup) seedless seedless raisins oz.,l1 cup) Add 150 charlotte into aa buttered buttered charlotte steeped in rum. rum. Pour Pour the the mixture mixture into steeped in in the the then in in aa bain-marie, bain-marie, then mould. few minutes minutes in for aa few Cook for mould. Cook plain or oyen. custard. cold, plain or with with custard. Serve cold, oven. Serve sweet Using sweet potato soufflé. PATATES -- Using Sweet AUx PATATES sourrlf AUX soufl6. SOUFFLÉ Sweet potato yolks and with stifry beaten beaten potato mixed with potato bound and mixed with egg yolks bound with as asmall entrte whites, can be served as prepare aa souffi6, which which can be served whites, prepare or sweet soufflé. as aa sweet souffi6. or as

SWEETEN. ADOUCIR acridity of aa dish dish by by ADoucrR -- To reduce the acridity prolonged cooking. This term also applies to diminishing prolonged diminishing the the degree of of saltiness in a dish by diluting it with water, water, milk or or Iight stock. light pArArE - Hardy plant with edible tubers SWEET POTATO. PATATE tubers SWEET POTATO. resembling resembling the potato. A native of India, it has has now adapted adapted to grow in ail resembles all warm countries. Its taste is sweet and resembles slightly the taste of artichoke. There are are many varieties varieties of sweet the best are sweet potatoes;. the best are Virginian, with tasty yellow yellow flesh, flesh, White Spanish, Spanish, Algerian, West very large the Malaga West lndian, Indian, which is very large and and floury, floury, and and the Malaga Pink. Other potatoes cultivated in in France France are are Other species species ofsweet of sweet potatoes also also very good. Sweet potatoes, potatoes, particularly Ma/aga into Pink, are are made made into Malaga Pink, jam. They can also en they resemble also be syrup, wh when they resemble be preserved in syrup,

flesh isis edible edible SWIFT Its flesh swallow. Hs Type of of swallow. MARTINET -- Type SWIFT... ,MARTINET though tasteless. rather tasteless. though rather

SWJSS BEET or or STRAWBERRY STRAWBERRY CHARD, WHITE WHITE BEET SWISS CHARD, poRts ÀA CARDE known SPINACH. Also known clnop -- Also BLErrE, POIRÉE BETTE, BLETTE, SPINACH. BETTE, under this isisaavegetable vegetable of of name of or seakale seakale beet, beet,this the name of chard chard or under the the its spinach-Iike spinachJike for its cultivated for as beetroot, beetroot, cultivated the same same type as leaves widely petioles and midribs. ItIt isis widely and midribs. white petioles leaves with broad white cultivated where district, where particularly in in the in France, the Lyons district, France, particularly cultivated in this markets greatly appreciated. in the the markets appreciated. ItIt isis found in vegetable isis greatly this vegetable from frosts. to the the first first frosts. from July July to (white ribs) Preparation keeping ribs) keeping the chard chard (white Trim the Preparation of chard. Tnm the all remove ail them and and remove parts for another green parts dish. Scrape Scrape them another dish. the green stringy Cook parts. Cut to 3-inch) pieces.Cook Cut into into 66 to to 8-cm. 8-cm. (2| to stringy parts. in Drain and prepare as for vegetables. vegetables. Drain in aa court-bouillon court-bouillon for indicated in the the recipe. recipe. indicated in The Drain, water. Drain, salted water. can also also be boiled inin salted The chard chard can be boiled immerse and cloth, chop chop and dry inin aa cloth, in cold water to to cool, cool, dry cold water immerse in prepare like like spinach. Cook LA BÉCHAMEL sfcHAMEr -- Cook nnrrns ÀALA la béchamel. bechamel. BETTES Swiss chard ài la 500 and (generous 1I lb.) Drain and g. (generous in aacourt-bouillon. lb.) chard court-bouillon. Drain chard in 500 g. t cups) thick pan with not too toothick put into cups) of of not with 33dl. dl. $ pint, 1l* into aasauté saut6 pan (see SAUCE). Simmer, for 55 covered, for Simmer, covered, sauce (see Bbchamel sauce minutes. (3oz., cup) oz., ti cup) Add 80 80 g.(3 Put into into aa vegetable dish. Add minutes. Put butter pour itit over the chards. the sauce sauce and pour over the to the butter to Swiss This isisanother another BLANc- - This BETTEs AU AUBLANC Swiss chard chard au au blanc. blanc. BETTES name forSwiss chard àdla la béchamel. bbchamel. name for Swiss chard Buttered 500 g.g. BEURRE- - Cook Cook 500 nerrrs AU AUBEURRE Swiss chard Buttered Swiss chard J.I. BETTES (generous put into into aa and put (generous 1I lb.) drain,and lb.) chard chard in in court-bouillon, court-bouillon, drain, sauté ~ cup) (4 oz., covered, pan with cup) butter. Simmer, covered, with 100 100 g.g. (4 butter.Simmer, oz.,* saut6 pan over dish, inaa vegetable dish, 20 minutes. minutes.Serve Serve in low heat heat for for 15 15 to to 20 over low sprinkled in which which itit was was cooked. with the the butter sprinkled with butter in Buttered chard Trimthe thechard BErrEs AU BEURRE - -Trim Swiss chard II. BETTES AUBEURRE Buttered Swiss chardII. and drain and and water, drain insalted saltedwater, into chunks. Blanch Blanch slightly in and cut cut intochunks. immerse simmer ininaa again, then thensimmer in cold cold water water to to cool. cool. Drain again, immerse in sauté pint, scant 100g.g.(4(4oz., oz., pan with waterand and 100 scantcup) cup) water with 22dl. dl.(t$ pint, saut6 pan i* cup) (generous lIb.) Transferto to I lb.)vegetables. vegetables.Transfer for 500 500 g.g.(generous cup) butter butter for aa vegetable with butter. dish and and spnnkle sprinkle with butter. vegetable dish Swiss 500g.g. Cook 500 cRtMn - - Cook BETTEs ÀALA t,c,CRÈME chard in in cream. cream. BETTES Swiss chard for55 drain.Simmer Simmerfor (generous 11lb.) lb.) chard incourt-bouillon; court-bouillon; drain. chard in pint, scant (2 oz.,t c,rp) butter. scant g.(2 dl.(!(f;pint, Add 44dl. butter. Add with50 minutes with 50 g.

marrons glac4s. In the areas young potatoes are areas where sweet sweet potatoes are cultivated, cultivated, the the young Ieaves are eaten eaten like spinach. spinach. leaves are Baked sweet jackets. PATATES potatoeg or sweet potatoes, in jackets. sweet potatoes in IATATES or sweet EN potatoes in sweet potatoes in EN CHEMISE, cuEMIsE, EN EN ROBE RoBE DE DE CHAMBRE CHAMBRE -- Bake the the sweet jackets in the their theirjackets the oyen. oven. Serve Serve with with butter. butter. pArArEs Boiled (Cr6ole cookery). sweet potatoes witb cookery). PATATES Boiled sweet with honey honey (Créole AU potatoes in in water, water, NATURAL AVEC MrEL -- Boil Boil the the sweet sweet potatoes AU NATURAL AvEc MIEL place in serve with with in the the ovenjust oven just long long enough enough to to dry dry them, them, and and serve honey. honey. p,lrlrEs ÀA LA Sweet Proceed as as Sweet potatoes à i la la crème. crime. PATATES r.l CRÈMEcRiun - Proceed

(see described in the recipe for for Potatoes uime (see the recipe Potatoes àd la la crème POTATOES). POTATOES). Sweet A'TES EN Sweet potato croquettes. IATATES Prepare croquettes. PAT EN CRO(1UETTES cRoeuETtns -- Prepare like ATOES). (see POT llke Potalo Potato craquelles croquettes (see POTATOES). Fried pArATEs FRITES Frled sweet sweet potatoes. PATATES Prepare like like Fried Fried FRITEs -- Prepare pOlatoes (see POTATOES). potatoe s (see Fried (Creole recipe). potatoes (Créole sweet potatoes Fried sweet IATATES FRITES FRITES -recipe). PATATES Choose potatoes. Boil round, even-sized sweet potatoes. Boil them without Choose round, even-sized sweet them without salt. While still salt. While still warm, warm, cut cut into'thick into'thick slices. slices. Fry Fry in in very very hot hot fat fat and and serve serve sprinkled sprinkled with with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar. sugar. Sweet gratin. PATATES Proceed as as Sweet potatoes au cRATIN -- Proceed au gratin. rATATES AU AU GRATIN (see gratin (see described in in the the recipe recipe for for Polaloes au gratin Potatoes au POTATOES). POTATOES). Sweet (American cookery). potatoes lii l'impériale, Henri (American Sweet potatoes I'iqlSriale, or or Henri PATATES gratin dish PATATES À A L'IMPÉRIALE Butter aa gratin dish or r.'rlrpfur,{rE -- Butter or aa shallow met al limbale put in potatoes, cooking metal timbale and in sliced and put sliced sweet sweet potatoes, cooking apples and bananas, apples and well mixed mixed and seasoned with with salt salt and and bananas, weil and seasoned paprika. al! pieces of paprika. Scatter Scatter sm Bake in in aa slow slow of butter butter on on top. top. Bake small oyen. Take out of oyen and co ver with apricot oven. Take out of the oven and cover with apricot or or redcurrant pulp. poultry This dish is served as an an accompaniment accompaniment to to meat, meat, poultry served as or game. or game.

911 9ll

SWISS ROLL ROLL SWISS 2cups) hot frestr cream arrd boil to reduceby half. Transfer to 2 cups) hot fresh cream and boil to reduce by half. Transfer to a vegetabh dish. Add 60 g. Q oz." I cup) butter to the pan a vegetable dish. Add 60 g. (2 OZ., cup) butter to the pan lQuor then pourthe sauce over the chards. liquor then pour the sauce over the chards. Swfu6 clard au gratin. BETTEs AU GRATTN - prepare Swis SwiSs chard au gratin. BETTES AU GRATIN - Prepare Swiss chard & la biclwnel Put into an ovenproof dish on a layer of chard à la bécha1'1'lel. Put into an ovenproof dish on a layer of bichamel sauce and cover with the same sauc€. béchamel sauce and coyer with the same sauce. Sprinkle wrth grated cheese and melted butter and brown with grated Sprinkle cbeese and melted butter and brown hot oyen. oven. ininaahot Swiss chard in gravy. BETTEs AU JUs - Cook 500 g. (generous Swiss chard in gravy. BETTES AU JUS - Cook 500 g. (generous I lb.) ehard inin court-bouillon. court-bouillon.Drainand put into pan into aasauté saut6 pan Drain and put 1 lb.) chard with 3 dl, (f pint, lf cups) brown veal gravy. lrave to simrirer, with 3 dl. (~pint, li cups) brown veal gravy. Leave to simmer, covered, for 10 minutes. Transfer to a vegetable dish. Add 50 covered, for 10 minutes. Transfer to a vegetable dish. Add 50 (2 oz.,* cup) blrtter to the gravy and pour it over the chard. g.E (2 OZ., t cup) butter to the gravy and pour it over the chard. Swiss cherd i la hollandaise. rrrrss A L.c, Hor,rA,NDArsE Swiss chard à la hollandaise. BETTES À LA HOLLANDAISE -Trim and cut the chard into long strips. Tie into bundles as Trim and cut the chard into long strips. Tie ioto bundles as you would asparagus, asparagus, and and cook cook in in boiling boiling salted salted water. water. you would: put on a serving dish for asparagus (with perforations Drain, Drain, put on a serving dish for asparagus (with perforations to aIlow allow drainage) drainage) or or on on a& napkin. napkin. Serve Serve with with Hollandaise Hollandaise to souce(*e SAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). prepared this way can also be served with vari,ous Chard prepared Chard this way can also be served with various other sauces, such as melted butter, Crearn sauce, Matrre other sauces, such as melted butter, Cream sauce, Maître d hbtel sauce, Mousseline, Vinaigretle, (see SAUCE). d'hôtel sauce, Mousseline, Vinaigrette, (see SAUCE). Swiss chard i l'italienne. BETTES A L'trqurNm - prepare Swiss chard à l'italienne. BETTES À L'IT AUENNE - Prepare like Swrss chard in gravy, replacing the veal gravy wrth Itilian Iike Swiss chard În gravy, replacing the veal gravy with ltalian (sen sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). sauce Swiss chard i la lyonnaise. eerrrs A rd LyoNNArsE prepare Swiss chard à la lyonnaise. BETTES À LA LYONNAISE -- Prepare like Swiss chard in gravy, replacing the gravy with Lyoniaise like Swiss chard in gravy, replacing the gravy with Lyonnaise sauce (see SAUCE). salice (see SAUCE). Swiss chard i la milanaise. BErrEs A r.c, rurrff{lrsE - Cook Swiss chard à la milanaise. BETTES À LA MILANAISE - Cook the chard chard in in salted salted water. water. Drain, Drain, dry, prepare like dry, and and prepare like the Asparagus d lamilanaise (see ASPARAGUS). Asparagus à la milanaise (see ASPARAG US). Swiss chard i la moelle. BErrEs A re Mosns - Drain the Swiss chard à la moelle. BETTES À LA MOELLE - Drain the chards, dry them and prepare like Cardoons with marrow (see chards, dry them and prepare Iike Cardoons \Vith marrow (see cARDOON). CARDOON). Swiss chard Mornay. BE-rrEs MoRNAy - Another name for Swiss chard Mornay. BETTES MORNAY - Another name for Swiss clard au gratin. Swiss chard au gratin. Swiss r,,1, poronersn Swiss chard chard ài la la polonaise. polonaise. BETTEs BETTES A À LA POLONAISE - Cook Cook the chards in salted water, drain, dry, the chards in salted water, drain, dry, and and prepare prepare like like Asparagus h la polonaise (see ASPARAGUS). Asparagus à la polonaise (see ASPARAG US). SWISS SWISS ROLL. ROLL. s0cHs BÛCHE -- Thin Thin sponge sponge cake cake baked baked in in aa special special jam or cream tin, then cream and and rolled rolled up up like like the the tin, then covered covered with with jam or French Bttche de NoEl. French Bûche de Noël.

SWIZ,ZLESTICK. STICK. MOUSSOIR MoussorR - - Little Little wooden wooden oror metal metal SWIZZLE implementused usedto towhisk whiskchocolate chocolateand andChampagne. Champagne. implement

t

SWORDFISH. ESPADON usplooN - - Fish Fishwhich which isisfound found ininthe theNorth North SWORDFlSH. Sea, the Balticand theBaltic andoff offthe coastofSicily. (23 of Sicily.ItItcan canreach reach7 m.(23 Sea, the coast 7 m. feet). Its Itsflesh fleshisiswhite, white, fine quitedelicate. fineand and quite delicate. Recipes Recipes for for feet). (fresh tuna tunny (fresh tunafish) fish) can canbe beused used for forswordfish. swordfish. tunny

pitisserie with Decorating pâtisserie with aa Decorating butter syringe bu uer syringe

SYRINGE. SERINGUE sERrNcrJE -- Instrument Instrument used in pâtisserie pAtisserie iostead instead SYRINGE. of aa forcing forcing bag pipe when bag and and pipe when itit is is necessary necessary to of to make make decorations with with aa substance substance that that isis rather rather firm firm in in condecorations sistency. sistency. SYRUP. SIROP srRop -- Solution Solution of of sugar and water or sugar SYRUP. sugar and and fruitjuice, concentrated to a sticky coosistency. consistency. It cao fruit juice, concentrated can be hot or cold. or cold. Almond syrup. SIROP $nop D'AM.a,NDE, slRop D'oRGEAT D'AMANDE, SIROP D'ORGEATAlmond syrup. Ingredients.500 (18 oz., sweet almonds, 150 Ingredients. 500 g. g. (18 OZ., 3tcups) 3~ cups) sweet 150 g. (5 oz., I cup) OZ., 1 cup) bitter bitter almonds, 3 kg. kg. (6* (~ lb.) sugar, li lf litres (3 pints, pints, 4 4 pints) pints) distilled distilled water, 2| 21 dl. (scant (scant 1j pint, generous generous cup) cup) orange orange flower flower water. Method. Method. Blanch Blanch the almonds, pound them to a paste in a mortar mortar with with 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz.,* OZ., cup) sugar sugar and 1| 11 dl. $ (t pint, pint, 3~ cup) water. water. Dilute, Dilute, little little by by little, little, with with the the rest rest of the the water. Squeeze Squeeze through through a cloth, c1oth, straining straining aa little little water water through through the the residue residue so so as as to to obtain z*ke. 2i kg. (5 lb.) lb.) of of liquor. Iiquor. Dissolve the remaining Addthe remaining sugar sugar in in this this in in aa bain-marie. Add the orange orange flower flower water water when when the the syrup syrup is is cold. cold. Blackcurrant Blackcurrant syrup. syrup. srRop SIROP DE DE cAssrs CASSIS -- Strip Strip the the blackcurblackcurrants rants from from their their stalks, stalks, crush crush them them and and press press out out the the juice juice through through aa muslin muslin bag. bag. Weigh Weigh the the juice juice and and add add sugar sugar in in the the ratio 900 g. juice. Stir I S oz.) ratio of of900 g. (21b,4 (2Ib., 4 cups) cups) sugar sugar to to 500 500 g. g. ((18 oz.)juice. Stir this this in in aa pan pan over over low low heat, heat, stirring stirring all ail the the time time to to encourage encourage the the sugar sugar to to dissolve dissolve and and prevent prevent it it from from sticking sticking to to the the bottom. bottom. Skim Skim carefully carefully and and verify veriJy the the degree degree of of concentration, conceotration, which which should should be be 31" 31 0 (at (at boiling boiling point). point). Decant Decant into into bottles, bottles, cork, cork, seal, seal, and and keep keep in in aa cool, cool, dry dry place. place. Cherry, Cherry, raspberty, raspberry, gooseberry gooseberry or or mulberry mulberry syrup. syrup. srRop SIROP DE DE cERIsE, CERISE, DE DE FRAMBoTSE, FRAMBOISE, DE DE cRoSEILLE, GROSEILLE, oo DE u0nn MÛRE _- Dissolve Dissolve the the sugar sugarin inthe thefiltered filtered fruit fruitjuice, juice,using, using,ififpossible, possible, aacopper copperpan pan (not (nottinned). tinned). Place Placeover overheat heatand and strain strainas assoon soonas asthe themixture mixture begins beginsto to boil. boil. The The amount amountof ofsugar sugarrequired required depends depends on on the the juice. sweetness sweetnessof ofthe thefruit fruitjuice. Cihic Citricacid acidsynrp. syrup.slRop SIROPD'AcrDE D'ACIDEcrrRreuE, CITRIQUE,srRop SIROPDE DELrMoN LlMONDissolve, Dissolve,by byshaking, shaking, tQ 10g.g. (*(toz.) oz.)citric citricacid acid in in 990 990g.g. (2* (2tlb.) lb.) plain syrup. Add 20 oz.) g. (j oz.)ofofalcoholic aIcoholictincture tinctureofoflemon. lemon. plain syrup. Add 20e.(3

t

Chocolate-flavoured Chocolale·ftavouredSwiss Swissroll roll

912 912

SYRUP almonds in in the the proportion of of 750 750 g. g. (li (Il lb., lb., 55 cups) sweet almonds almonds to to 150 150 g. g. (5 oz., I1cup) cup) bitter bitter almonds. '. Blanch Blanch them Ihem for for a few few moments moments in boiling boiling water. water. The The skins are are easily removed removed by by rubbing them them between between thumb thumb and forefinger. forefinger. Rinse Rinse the the almonds almonds in in cold cold water, water, drain, drain, and toss t05S them Ihem in in aa cloth c10th so sa as as to to remove remove all ail traces traces of of moisture. moisture. Pound Pound the the almonds, almonds, little little by by little, little, in in aa marble marble mortar. mortar. Allow Allow 1| 1t litres litres (2f (2t pints, 9A0 e. Q pints, 2f; 2i pints) pints) water water and and 2f 21 kg. (5(5 lb.) lb.) loaf loaf sugar sugar for for 900 (2 lb., 6 cups) cups) almonds. Add Add 100 100 g. (4 (4 oz.,* oz.,! cup) cup) sugar sugar little by by little little to to the almonds almonds being pounded in the the mortar, mortar, and, from from time time to time, a few few drops of water. This prevents prevents the the almonds turning turning to to oil. When they are are completely pounded, pounded, dilute dilutc the almonds to to aa paste by adding a little little more more than half half of of the total total amount of of cloth, water. watcr. Strain the diluted diluted paste paste through through a a damp damp c!oth, wringing wnnging out the cloth thoroughly to [0 extract exrracl all ail the the almond almond milk. miJk. Put Pul back the residue in in the mortar, monar, pound pound it it afresh with wiLh cup) sugar, then about 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., oz., Ii cup) then add the [he rest ofthe of the water. of Strain Srrain this also also through lhrough the the cloth, cJoth, squeezing squeezing out out every drop drop of Mix together liquid. Iiquid. Mix together the first and second pressings pressings of of almond almond it. milk, and and dissolve the rest of of the sugar in in il. as Remove as Pour into into a pan and and heat, heat, stirring frequently. Remove syrup must must not soon saon as as the the first bubbles appear; the the syrup not be oraige allowed to boil. Away allowed Away from f rom the heat add half half a glass glass of of orange flower water. cut the lemon If the chosen flavouring is lemon, cut If lemon in in slices slices syrup for and leave them them in the syrup for l5 15 minutes. putting the almond Orgeat syrup Orgeat syrup can also be made by putting almond milk milk into small lump sugar sugar broken in in a a china bowl with with the lump broken up up into pieces. Set in a bain-marie bain-marie and stir from time pieces. lÎme to ta time. lime. As soon is near is completely dissolved dissolved and and the liquid as the sugar is as liquid is When the syrup is cold, from the heat. Whcn boiling point, remove remove l'rom poured on on [0 to the surface with orange orange flower water poured flavour flavour it wilh through aa stir, then strain through syrup. After aa few moments, of the syrup. of moments, 5tir, pour into cloth and pour into bottles. white c\oth boUles. (4 prepare cold, dissolve (4 Plain syrup. SiROP slRop DE SUCRE sucRE -- To prepare PlaiD (lf pints, pints, generous quart) water. in Il litre litre (ll lb., 8 cups) sugar in lb., as syrup syrup prepared hot, which syrup does Dot not keep as as well This syrup This weIl as g. (3+ Ib.,7 lb., 7 cups) sugar to I litre (lt adding 1650 g. is made by byadding quart) water heated to boiling point. strain pints, generous quart) pints, and filter.

Cofree Coffee syrup. Syrup. slRop SIROP DE DE cAFt cm -- Make Make a very very strong strong infusion infusioo lb.) fresh with wîth 500 500 g. (generous (generous IlIb.) fresh finely ground ground coffee. Strain Straîn 2 litres (3| (3! pints, 4| pints) boiling boiling water twice twice through through the ground ground coffee eoffee to to give about about lf li litres litres (2$ (2i pints, piots, 2f, 2~ pints) pints) wellflavoured flavoured coffee. Put pan. Pour Pour in Put 2| kg. (5+ lb., I11I cups) cups) sugar sugar into Îoto a copper pan. mdt over low heat. As soon as the the coffee infusion and melt the syrup begins begins to boil bail it should be removed. removed. SIROP DE DE croMME GOMME - Ingredienrs. In~'rI'11il')'1ls. 100 g. g oz.) Gum syrup. slRop white sugar, 3j dl. washed washed white white gum, 300 300 g. (l I1 oz.,Itcups) OZ., (generous (geoerous j1- pint, 1| cups) cups) distilled water. Method. Melhod. Dissolve the gum, then theo the the sugar, sugar, in the water. Heat Heat to ta boiling boiling point. point. Remove Remove when when the first tirst bubbles bubbles appear, appear, and strain. slrain. 1. snop SlROP o'oRnNcBD'ORANGE- Make Make acold a cold sugar sugar syrup, Orange syn4lI. 1 litre l3 pints, generous melting lf kg, (4 lb., 88 cups) cups) sugar sugar in 1 litre ((11 generous quart) quart) water. water. It Il takes takes 24 24 hours hours for for the tbe sugar sugar to to melt completely. Filter Filter through through wet flannel. Dissolve 100 100 g. (4 oz.) citric citne acid in a little little water water and flavour it with orange extract orange ext met whieh is obtained by soaking soaking finely cut eut ofthe orange orange peel in alcohol. To double the strength of the extract, stood for I1 month. reinfuse reÎnfuse with with fresh orange orange peel after it has stood month. part of the skin, the It Il is important to ta use only oruy the [he coloured pan white pith imparts imparts a bitter bitter taste. prepared for use by syrup can Orange syrup can be Orange be prepared for immediate immediate use rubbing the outsîdes outsides of the oranges with sugar lumps until allow 2 kg. the skins. For there there is no more more juic j uic left in the For 6 oranges allow (+1b.9 lb. 9 cups) sugar, taking from this tlUs sufficient quantity for in 1| litres (2f pints, 3] rubbing the skins. skins. Melt all the sugar in I1Utres pints) cold water. water. Add 250 g. e. (9 oz.) citric acid. stRop D'oneNGE Orange D'ORANGE -- Choose Choose fine fine ripe Orange synrp II. SIROP off22 or 3 of oranges. Pare the rind off these, very finely and keep ofthese, pulp of side to of the Crush the the puJp on one side syrup. on one to flavour fla vour the the sy rup. Crush damp c1oth. cloth. Weigh Weigh the out the juice in a damp oranges and squeeze outthejuiœ juice. Allow (l? lb., 3i g. (18 g. (Il-lb., 3f cups) sugar for every 500 g. juice. AHow 800 g. copper pan. oz.)juice. Set over heat in a copper frame. Put the orange orange damp c10th cloth over a wooden frame. Spread a damp peel on this. As soon as the syrup boils pour it it over the peel. Cool before before bottling. syrup can be made În in the same way, but sinœ sincelemon Lemon syrupcan lernon juice is juice it is necessary necessary to to acid than than orange juice juice is much more acid it is quantity ofwater of water and to use additiona\ additional sugar. add an equal quantîty o'oRGEAT -- Mix Mix sweet sweet and and biller bitter Orgeat syrup. syrup. SlROP slRop D'ORGEAT Orgeat

n.

913 913

N,c,ppp -- Piece Piece of of linen linen used used lO to cover cover the the TTABLECLOTH. ABLECLOTH. NAPPE for meals. table for meals. lt It has has aa long history and goes back and goes back to to the the table Middle Ages. early Middle Ages. Up Up to to the the fifteenth century century the the tablccloth tablecloth early was very very wide wide and and was was folded folded in in two two so so that that itit could could be be turned turned was over. It It was was then then known known as as the 'double cloth' the 'double cloth'. From From trus this ovec period, fashion fashion decrecd decreed thal that tablecloths tablecloths sbould should be be of of single width instead instead of of double. double. They They were were often often dam~ISCé;:n(X1 damascened or embroidered. em broide red. played an The tablecloth tablecloth played an important important role role in in feuda! feudal cerecereThe monial. lt It was was acceptable acceptable for persons of for persons of different different rank rank to to monÎal. dine at at the the same same table, but the the host's place alone host's place alone had had the the dine table, but distinction of of being covered with with aa clotho cloth, which which set set him him apart apart distinction heing covered from those If the was entirely entirely covered covered with from those present. present. If the table table was with aa cloth, host's place singled out out from the rest cloth, the the host's place was was singled from the rest in in being beîng covered covered with with aa special napkin. Until of the when the inUntil the the end of the fourteenth century, wh en the individual come into dividual napkin napkin had had not not yet yet come into use, use, the tablecloth tablecloth was was covered covered with with a a 'runner', 'runner', a a long narrow narrow strip strip of of linen Iinen laid laid along cloth, which was guests to along the the edge edge of of the the cloth, was used used by by the the guests to wipe wipe their their fingers fingers and and mouths. mouths. Table linen general came into Table linen came into general use use in in the the sixteenth sixteenth century, cenlury, when when each each diner diner had had his his own own napkin. napkin. At At this this period, luxury luxury was was carried carried so so far far that that napkins were were changed several several times limes during duriog aa meal. meal. They They were were tied round round the the neck to to protect protect the the fine muslin collars period. worn at that fine muslin collars worn at that period. As As the the operation operation of of knotting knotting the the two two ends ends of of the the napkin napkin was was not not an an easy easy one one for for the diner to to undertake undcnake himself, himself, it it was was necessary necessary to to seek seek the diner assistance assistance from from a a fellow-guest, from from which whîch came came the the exexpression'making both ends meet.' meet.· pression 'making both Table napkins Table napk.ins also also began began to to be he folded folded in in different different ways. ways. This This custom, custom, however, however, was was soon soon abandoned, abandoned, but but was was to ta return return three three hundred hundred years years later. later. In In the the sixteenth sixteenth century century itit was was fashionable fashionable to ta fold fold napkins napkins in in the the shapes shapes of of fruits fruits and and birds. bîrds. It Il was was also also customary customary to to perfume perfume napkins napk.ins and and table table cloths c10ths with whh rose rose water warer and and other other essences. essences. Table Table linen linen was was now now woven woven (by (by craftsmen craftsmen known known as as telliers telliers and and tisserands) tisserands) in in such such aCt way way as as to to incorporate incorporate designs designs in in the the weave of the fabric itself. weave of the fahric itself. Damascene Damascene cloths c10ths and and napkins napk.ins began began to to be he woven woven in in France France at at Rheims Rheims and and in in Normandy, Normandy, especially especially in in the the Caen Caen area. are3. These These were were as as beautiful beautiful as as those those which wbich had had hitherto hitherto been beeD made made in in Flanders Flanders and and Venice. Venice. AA man man called called Graindorge Graindorge had had the the idea idea of weaving chequered cbequered patterns patterns and and flowers flowers into into table table linen. linen. His His son, son, Richard, made made damascene damascene cloth c10tn with with designs of ofhuman human figures, figures, animals animaIs and and other other designs. designs. Michel, Michel, Richard's son, son, founded founded several several factories factories for for the the production production of of damask damask table table linen linen and and its its use use spread spread throughout throughout the the kingdom. kingdom.

TABLE DECORATIONS DECORATIONS -- Table Table decorations decorations should should nOl not TABLE impede the service service or or rnake make it difficult difrcult for for people to speak speak or or impede to sec see one one another. another. The The fashion fashion for complicated complicated decorations decorations to went out out long long ago; ago; nowadays nowadays one or two two low low baskets one or went baskets or or bowls of of flowers flowers make make an an elegant elegant and practical decor. and practical decor. bowls Centrepieces, mirrors mirrors wÎth with Japanese gardens arranged on Japanese gardens Centrepicces. them, are are suitable suitable for formai formal occasions. ChemÎns Chemiw de fleurs in them, little crystaljardinières, crystal jardiniires,long little long and narrow, arranged end to end to make aa border of roses, roses, violets violets or nasturtiums, look or nasturtiums, to make border of charming, as as do sprays of autumn flowers and leavcs leaves on the charming. tablecloth. tablecloth. Bowls or or baskets of fruit fruit can replace floral decorations. A A Bowls table brightly coloured linen dishes makes an table setting setting with with brightly lÎnen and dishes informal cheerful; glaz.ed informai meal meal very cheerfu1; Sazed earthenware jugs, plates and decorative ideas. and dishes dishes lend themselves to many decorative Place settings should be at least 30 cm. (12 inches) apart. A Place settings thick padding or heat-resistant heat-resÎstant mats should snouJd be placed thick flannel ftannel padding under The fork under the the tablecloth. tableclotb. Tbe fork is placed placed at the left-hand left-hand side ofthe cutting edge of the plate, plate, the the spoon spoon and knife knife at the right; the lhe cutting edge of of the the latter latter should should be be turned turned inwards inwards towards towards the the plate. Glasses Madeira and and Champagne are Glasses for for water, water, wine, wine, Madeira arranged arranged either either in in aa group group or or in a line, Hne, in order of size. Carafes of and vin of water water and vin ordinaire ordinaire are are grouped grouped along along the the table alternately alternately with with the salt salt cellars cellars and pepper pepper pots. pots. TACALJD and TACAUD - Name Name for for aa variety of of cod, cod, also also called called fficier officier and morue morue borgne. The The flesh flesh is is quite pleasant pleasant to to eat but but full of bones. bones. All recipes recipes given given for fOr cod (q.v.) can be be applied to to this this fish. fish.

TACONTACON - Young Young salmon salmon (see (see SALMON). SALMON). TAILLEVENT-Famouscookwho T AJLLEVENT - Famous cook who was was the the authorof a uthor of one one of of the the oldest oldest books books on on cookery. cookery.

Guillaume Guillaume Tirel, Tirel, called called Taillevent,was Taillevent, was born born in1326. in 1326. From From 1346 350 he 1346 to to I1350 he was was head head cook cook to to Philippe VI VI de de Valois, Valois, from from

1355 1355 to to 1368 1368 head head cook cook and and master master of the the kitchen kitchen to lO the the Dauphin, Dauphin, the the Duke Duke of of Normandy, Normandy, and and from from 1368 1368 to to l37l 1371 head head cook cook to to Charles Charles Yl:'premier VI; 'premier Ecuyer écuyer de de cuisine cuisine et et maistre maistre des des garnisons garnisons de de cuisine' cuisine' (first (first master master of of the the kitchen kitchen and and master master of ofthe the art art of ofgamishing). garnishing). Taillevent 1395 and and probably probably wrote wrote his his Viandier Viandier Taillevent died died in in 1395 between hetween 1373 1373 and and 1380. 1380.

TNLLOIR bread which TAILLOIR or orTRANCHOIR TRANCHOIR-- Special slices slices of ofbread which

in in olden olden days days took took the the place place of of plates. They They were were placed placed in in turn tum on on pieces pieces of of coloured coloure<.l or or plain wood wood and and on on slices slices of of bread bread on on which which the the food food was was served. served. After After each each service service the the bread bread was was gathered gathered up up in in baskets baskets and and distributed distributed among among the the

poor. poor. 914 914

TARRAGON (See recipes for oranges are are suitable for tangerines. (See Many recipes ORANGE.) ORANGE.) TART, FLAN. Tangerine tart or flan -- See See TART, Tangerine pulp Remove the MANDARTNES GLACÉES the pulp cLAcEEs -- Remove Iced tangerines. MANDARINES skin. Make an an ice cream cream from tangerines without tearing the skin. (see ICE CREA pulp (see ICES) and and CREAMS mixture with the the pulp MS AND ICES) mixture it. fill the skins with it. EN SURPRISE suRpRIsE -- Empty Empty Tangerines en surprise. MANDARINES EN with aa tangerines as as indicated in the previous recipe. Fill with the tangerines ice Neapolitan ice tablespoon of of tangerine tangerine ice cream or Neapolitan cream or heaped tablespoon layer of oftangerine tangerine. Spread Spread aa layer tangerine cream flavoured with tangerine. very mixture on top. Sprinkle icing sugar. sugar. Put Put in aa very soufflé souffi6 mixture Sprinkle with icing hot oven for aa few seconds seconds to brown. in DE MANDARINES MANDARINTs -- Prepare Prepare in Tangerines in syrup. COMPOTE coMporE DE (see ORANGE). same way as as Orange compote (see the same

Talleyrand (1754--1838) ( I 754-l 838) Talleyrand

in glass TAI\KARD BocK -- Receptacle in BEER GLASS. T ANKARD or or BEER GLASS. BOCK (scant pint, pint,2tcups) which is is stoneware of! capacity wruch or stoneware cups) capacity of j litre (scant used for drinking drinking beer. beer. glasses generally generally have made of Beer have aa handle. Beer glasses handle. Those Those made of stoneware are often with designs designs in in relief, relief, often ornamented stoneware are ornamented with generally representing representing carousing generally scenes. carousing scenes.

2t

Nowadays the word tailloir describes a wooden wooden platter on wruch meat is cut up. which

TALLEYRAND TALLEYRAND -- Charles Talleyrand-P6rigord, Charles Maurice de Talleyrand-Périgord, celebrated celebrated statesman and diplomat, diplomat, was born in Paris on on 13 February 1754, and February 1754, and, died in the same city on 17 May 1838. He gastronomes. was one of of the greatest French gastronomes. At the age age of 21 2l he became Abbot of Saint-Denis and and in 1788 1788 Bishop of Autun, but high ecclesiastical office office did did not prevent him him from leading aa bnlliant and dissipated worldly and dissipated life. His lack of of moral scruples and an aptitude for diplomacy and intrigue intrigue enabled rum him to retain a high position throughout the the Revolution, Revolution, the and the the ReDirectory, the the Directory, the Empire Empire and storation, periods of storation, with only short periods reversal of fortune. of reversai Wrule While he was an important personage at Court, the luxury of his table table and splendour of and the the splendour of rus of rus his entertaining entertaining were celebrated. celebrated. At the time of of the First First Empire he had as his cook the illustrious illustrious Carême. Car€me. The The extravagance extravagance ofTalleyrand's of Talleyrand's table was not entirely for for the sake of pure gastronomical satisfaction; satisfaction; he believed that the pleasure he offered guests at his guests offered rus at these receptions receptions was an an important important element element in in the the success his diplomacy diplomacy and and success of of his intrigues. He never let religious or moral the moral scruples interfere with the pursuit of his career and personal pleasures. Part of aa letter and personal letter written l79l to his friend the Duc de Lauzun demonstrates written in 1791 demonstrates this side of of his character. character. A bill of of excommunication had been issued issued against against several several members members of the clergy. Talleyrand, Talleyrand, the clergy. whose name was included, wrote ironically, 'Y ou have heard 'You the news; excommunicated. Come me. Come and and dine to console me. Everyone so we will eat nothing but Everyone refuses me fire and water, so eat notrung but glazed glazed cold meats and drink only chilled wines.' wines.'

from the roots of of TAPIOCA Farinaceous food food extracted extracted from the roots TAPIOCA -- Farinaceous plant. It is cassava is very very digestible and is is used used to to digestible and cassava or manioc plant. puddings. trucken and make milk puddings. thicken soups and broths, and pouDrNG AU TAPIOCA PUDDING. Tapioca Tapioca pudding. POUDING rApIocA -- See See PUDDING. TAPIR Large mammiferous American animal, snimal, mammiferous South TAPIR -- Large South American pig. The rather resembling and resembling aa pig. The flesh flesh is is highly highly thought thought of, of, and (see WILD can WILD BOAR). can be prepared like that of of boar (see

Branch tarragoo oftarragon Branch of

TALMOUSE -- Cheese œuvre (see as hors-d' Cheese tartlet, served as hors-d'euvre HORS-D'ŒUVRE). HORS-D'(EUVRE).

TTARRAGON. ARRAGON. ESTRAGON with chervil chervil and and Pot-herb used used with Bsrn.rcox -- Pot-herb chives green salads. used to to Tarragon isis also also used to flavour flavour green salads. Tarragon chives to flavour from it. it. liqueur is made made from flavour sorne some sauces. sauces. A liqueur Press down Bottled tarragon. well down weil D'EsrRAGoN --Press tarragon. CONSERVE coNsERvE D'ESTRAGON in young sprigs of fresh fresh sprig;s of some young in c1ean, clean, dry dry small small bottles bottles sorne tarragon in aa and dried dried in which have stripped, washed washed and have been been stripped, tarragon which c1oth. paper caps. string caps. Tie Tie string cover with with paper cloth. Cork Cork the bottles and and cover round the wrappers, in straw straw wrappers, the necks necks of bottles. Put Put them, them, in of the bottles. in plice them pan lined canning them on on aa canning in aa large large pan lined with straw, straw, or or place rack. 40 for 40 with cold cold water. water. Boil Boil continuously continuously for rack. Cover Cover with minutes. pan. Drain dry Drain and and dry to cool cool in in the the pan. minutes. Leave kave the bottles to them. place. in aa cool cool place. them. Keep in Treated very long long kept for for aa very Treated in in this this way, way, tarragon tarragon can can be be kept time without losing in the the same same aroma. It It isis used used in its aroma. losing any any of of its way as fresh fresh tarragon. way as Tarragon Boil, until until almost almost D'BsrRAcoN -- Boil, Tarragon cream. cream. CRÈME cRiIvG D'ESTRAGON completely (4 oz., g. (4 tarragon cup) fresh fresh crushed crushed tarragon dry, 100 100 g. oz.,l1 cup) completely dry, leaves, pint, -t3 cup) wine. white wine. dl. (t cup) dry dry white moistened with with l! lf dl. leaves, moistened $ pint,

T AM ARIN D. TAMARIN TAMARIND. rlrrrlruN -- Fruit Fruit of the tamarind tamarind tree, tree, aa of the legurninous leguminous plant of the West Indies. The The pods are filled with juicy pulp wruch an acid juicy prepare aa limonade can is used to prepare which is limonade and can replace vinegar. vinegar. Medicinally Medicinally it has laxative properties. TAMMY CLOTH. CLOTH. ÉTAMINE frrurnNn -- Piece Piece of of woollen woollen material through pur6es are rubbed by means of which purées through wruch spatula. It is is of a spatula. also used used for straining sauces sauces and stocks. stocks. TANGERINE. TANGERII\E. MANDARINE MANDARTNn -- Fruit of aa species species of of orangetree, originally from Cruna. is cultivated in in the China. It is the south-east south-east of .S.A. The of France, France, and in southern southern U U.S.A. The tangerines tangerines of of Nice and and Algeria Algeria are are renowned. renowned. The tangerine is is aa delicious fruit. fruit. It It isis usually eaten eaten raw. raw. Like in various various ways ways in in Like the the orange, orange, it it can can be treated in be treated confectionery, preparation of in sweets and and in confectionery, in in the the preparation of cold cold sweets cooking. 915 915

TARTARE TARTARE (generous ~j pint, Add 31 pint, H 3+dl. dl. (generous 1|cups) cups)very verythick thick Béchamel Bichamel Add (seeSAUCE). sauce (see SAUCE). Season. Season. Boil Boilfor foraafew fewseconds. seconds. Rub Rub sauce through muslin. muslin. Heat Heatand and add add aalittle little fresh fresh butter. butter. through pur6e isis used This purée used asas aa filling filling for for small small vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, This barquettes or orcanapés, canapis, and and for for stuffing stuffingcertain vegetablessuch such certain vegetables barquettes as artichoke artichoke he hearts, mushrooms.etc. etc. arts, mushrooms, as I)ried tarragon. tarragon. ESTRAGON ESTRAGoN SÈCHÉ sicnf - - Strip Strip and andwash wash fresh fresh Dried branches of oftarragon, picked, and recently picked, and dry dry thoroughly thoroughly inin branches tarragon, recently cloth. Tie Tie them them into into bunches bunches of of 66 to to 88with withstring. string.Hang Hang aa clotho in aa cool place and cool dry these in dry place and leave leave until until they they are arecompletely completely these dry. dry. Dried tarragon tarragon isis used used in in the the same same way way as asfresh fresh or or bottled bottled Dried tarragon but but as as the the flavouris flavour is more moreconcentrated concentrated use useslightly slightly tarragon less. less. Ptckled tarragon. tarragon. CONSERVE coNSERvE D'ESTRAGON D'nsrRAcoN AU vrNArcRE - AU VINAIGRE Pickled Strip branches branches of of fresh fresh tarragon tarragon and and break break into into little little sprigs. sprigs. Strip in cold Wash in cold water water and and dry dry thoroughly thoroughly in in aacloth. cloth. Put Fut the the Wash sprigs in in small small bottles, bottles, fill fill with with very very strong strong vinegar, vinegar, cork cork the the sprigs bottles tightly, tightly, tie tie with with string, string, and and keep keep in place. in aa cool cool place. bottles punfir D'ESTRAGON Tarragon purée. pur6e. PURÉE D'EsrRAGoN -- Hot. Hot. Made Made with with Tarragon tarragon and and very very thick thick béchamel btchamel sauce sauce as as indicated indicated for for tarragon Tarragon cream. cream.It can also also be be made made by purde of by adding adding aa purée of Tarragon It can tarragon leaves, leaves, blanched, blanched, cooled cooled under under running running water, water, tarragon pounded in drained, pounded in aa mortar, mortar, rubbed rubbed through through muslin, muslin, to to drained, its volume twice its volume of potatoes. This of mashed mashed potatoes. pur6e isis used This purée as aa used as twice filling for for small small vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, canapés canapts or preparations; similar preparations; or similar tilling and to to stuff stuffartichoke hearts, sm small tomatoes, etc. and artichoke hearts, ail toma toes, etc. Pound together Cold. together in in aa mortar (4 oz., mortar 100 g. (4 100 g. cup) oz., 1I cup) Co Id. Pound blanched, cooled cooled and and drained drained tarragon tarragon leaves, leaves, with with 66 hard hard blanched, yolks. Add boiled egg egg yolks. (3 tablespoons) Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) fresh fresh boiled Rub through aa fine fine sieve. sieve. butter. Rub pur6e is is used in the preparation of This purée of various various co cold horsId horsThis deuvre or to decorate cold cold fish. fish. d'œuvre Tarragon vinegar. vinegar. VINAIGRE vrNArcRE ÀA L'ESTRAGON r'Esrn.q,coN -- Ordinary Ordinary Tarragon vinegar small are steeped. steeped. It It isis used vinegar in which sm ail tarragon shoots are used to moisten sauces sauces and in salad dressing. dressing.

jam,custard pastrytilled designateaapastry filledwith withfruit, fruit,jam, custardororsorne someother designate other filling.The TheAmerican Americanterrn termmost mostoften oftenused usedisisopen openororsingle filling. single 'pie'.Almost crusted'pie'. Almostail allsuch suchdishes dishesare arecooked cookedand andserved servedinin crusted theUnited United States piedish, Statesinina apie dish,whereas whereasininEngland EnglandororFrance France the metalflan flanor pastryring, orpastry placedon ring,placed ona ametal metalbaking aametal bakingsheet, sheet,isis (Fortarts used.(For tartsand andflans flanswith withsavoury savoury fillings, fillings,see used. seeFLANS.) FLANS.) Recipes for forsweet sweetfillings fillingssuitable suitablefor given fordesserts dessertsare Recipes aregiven below.Ail All recipes recipesare aresuitable suitablefor forbaking bakinginineither below. eitheranan piedish American pie dishor oraaflan flanring. ring. American In England Englandthe thetart tartisisoften oftenaatwo-crusted, two-crusted,fruit-filled In fruit-filled dessert baked baked ininaadish. dish.This Thiswould would be pieininU.S.A., dessert becalled calledaapie U.S.A., whereasaatart tart would would designate designateaasm pie ail single-crusted whereas small single-crustedpie whichthe theFrench Frenchcali calltartelette. tartelette. which (flan)cases Tart (flan) cases baked (unfiXed).CROÛTES bakedblind blind(unfilled). Tart cno0rrsÀAFLAN rlaN culrEsÀABLANC srANc- - Made Madewith (seeDOUGH). with Short pastry(see CUITES Shortpastry DOUGH). Roll out out 225 225g.g.(8(8oz.) pastrytotoaacircle oz.) pastry (10inches) Roll circle25 25cm. inches)inin cm.(10 diameter.Transfer Transfer trus this toto aacircular, diameter. circular, buttered butteredflan flan ring, ring, pressing itit round round the inside of the inside pressing ofthe thetin. tin.Cut Cutoff offthe theexcess excess pastry. pastry. the rim rim of Make the of the thetart tartout Make outof ofthe theband of pastry rising band ofpastry risingup up the sides sidesof of the thetin. tin. Lift Lift itit away the awayfrom from the pinch itit theedge edgeand andpinch with finger finger and and thumb pastrypinchers. with thumb or pinchers. or pastry Prick the the bottom bottom of Prick of the thetart prevent the tart toto prevent pastryfrom the pastry from bubbling up upduring during baking. bubbling baking. Line Line the the edge edge and and bottom bottomof ofthe the pastry with greaseproof paper. with greaseproof paper. Fill pastry Fill ititwith with dried driedbeans beansor orrice. rice. Bake in in aa moderately moderately hot Bake hot oyen oven for for about about25 25minutes. minutes. paper and Remove the Remove the paper and temporary temporarytilling. filling. Brush Brush the thetart tart with with egg. Dry itit for egg. Dry for aa few few moments moments inin the theoyen. oven. Fiji Fill with with whatever whatever isis indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe. Alsatian tart. 125 g.g.(4(4oz., AJsatian TARTEALSACIENNE tart. TARTE ALsAcTENNE -Ingredients. oz., -/rrgredients.125 1* cup) cup) butter, (9oz., butter, 250 250 g.g.(9 oz., 22cups) cups) castor castor sugar, sugar, 1t egg, 2S0g.g. egg, 250 (9 oz., (9 2 cups) cups) sifted oz., 22 cups) sifted flour, flour, 250 (9 oz., 250 g.g. (9 o2.,2 ground cups) ground almonds. almonds. Method. Method. Cream Cream together together the the butter, butter, sugar sugar and andegg. egg,Add Add the the flour flour and and the the almonds. almonds. Mix Mix weil. well. Roll Roll out out three-quarters three-quarters of of the the dough dough into into aa round piece about round piece (| inch) about 1I cm. cm.(1 inch) truck. thick. Roll Roll out out the the rest rest of pastry and of the the pastry and cut cut itit into into thin thin strips. strips.Surround Surround piece of the round piece the round pastry with of pastry with one one of of these these strips strips and and arrange arrange the the others others criss-cross criss-cross on on top, top, sealing sealing them them together together with with cold cold water. water. jam or Fill Fill each each space space with with aa different different kind kind of ofjam or marmalade. marmalade. Bake Bake in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oyen. oven.

given TARTARE - N Name chiefly to a cold sa sauce TARTARE ame gi ven chiefly uce;; mayonnaise mayonnaise prepared with crushed crushed hard hard boiled yolks and boiled egg egg yolks and oil, prepared with oil, with with chopped chopped chives cruves added. A tartareisis the name name given to minced beefsteak À la tartare beef steak seasoned seasoned pepper, reshaped with reshaped into into aa steak and pepper, with salt salt and steak and and served served uncooked with a raw egg on on top, top, and, and, on on the side, side, capers, capers, chopped chopped onion onion and parsley. parsley.

TART TART (FLAN). (FLAN). TARTE -- The words tarte 'tart' and tarte or or'tart' and 'flan' are often used in England and interchangeably in used interchangeably and France to to

Apple tan Apple tarr

Apple tart. tart. TARTE TARTE AUx AUX poMMEs POMMES - Sprinkle aa flan Apple flan case case made made - Sprinkle of Fine Fine lining /ining paste paste or or pastry pastry dough dough l, pastry 1I or of I, Short Short pastry Flaky or Flaky (see DOUGH) DOUGH) with with fine fine sugar, fill with pastry (see peeled sugar, and and fill with peeled eating apples apples cut cut into into quarters quarters or or thin trun slices. eating slices.

Lining aa circular circular tart tart tin Lin with with pastry pastry Lining

('A CA I'Alsacienne', l'Alsacienne'. Maison Maison Morand. Morand. Phot. Phot. ktrousse\ Larnllsse)

916 916

TART Bake in a hot oyen. oven. Coat the fruit with apple jelly or sieved apricot jam, flavoured with with liqueur. apricotjam, poMMEs A Apple I'alsacienn€. FLAN DE POMMES r'ltsLctENNs Apple tart ài l'alsacienne. À L'ALSACIENNEFill a flan flan case with quartered small tart apples. Proceed as (see below), for Apricot tart àd l'alsacienne Apricot tart for I'alsacienne (see below), flavouring the custard with with cinnamon. custard poMMEs Apple tart with lattice-work lattice-work decoration. FLAN FLAN AUX AUx POMMES wtth Short I (see DOUGH). DOUGH). GRILLÉ cnrrrt -- Line a flan ring with Short pastry 1 pur6e. Decorate the top Fill with rather truck with a top with thick apple purée. thin strips of pastry. Press Press down latticed design made with trun well at the edges. Brush Brush with with egg and bake in a hot oyen. oven. weil poMMEs À rARrE AUx Messina apple AUX POMMES MESSINE -apple tart. tart. TARTE A LA rA ranssnrE usual way. Fill with thin slices of Prepare aa flan case in the usual eating apples and seeded raisins. Sprinkle with sugar sugared eating and bake in a hot oyen. oven. Apricot tart. TARTE AUX flan with Fine AUx ABRIcors Llne aa flan ABRICOTS -- Line cm. (-t Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) 1I cm. lining paste 1I or Flaky @ inch) thick. Flute Flute the edges. Prick the paste and place on a baking of apricots. ,dish. ,dish. Sprinkle with fine sugar and fill with halves of Bake in moderately hot hot oyen for about about 30 30 minutes. Bake in aa moderately oven for Remove the flan ring and brush the tart with beaten egg. Put Remove back in the oyen minutes to finish cooking. Put the tart oven for 5 minutes cooling rack and and coat the fruit with aa trun thin covering of on a cooling pur6e. Place apricot jam sieved apricot or apricot apricot purée. Place aa few sieved jam or few sweet almonds or apricot kernels kemels on top. almonds tart may The tart may be be sprinkled sprinkled with with vanilla-flavoured vanilla-flavoured sugar The of usingjam, using jam, but the latter appearance. latter gives a better appearance. instead of The tart must not be left to cool on the baking because baking sheet because and the pastry williose will lose its the steam will escape too slowly and crispness. Apricot tart tart àir l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. FLAN Apricot FLAN AUx AUX ABRIcors ABRICOTS A À flan case case with with halved L'ALSACIENNE halved apricots which L'ArsAcrENNn -- Fill aa flan putting the flan have been Before putting have been steeped in kirsch and sugar. Before pour in in the oven, pour in aa custard custard mixture thickened with with a in the oyen, ofpotato teaspoon of teaspoon potato flour or arrowroot.

Cherry tart ài l'alsacienne I'alsacienne Cherry

(2! inches) deep. Put in a layer of Butter a baking dish 6 cm. cm. (21Butter (* inch) peeled and about 5 mm. mm. (iinch) truck. thick. Fill with peeled fine sugar about apples, and and sorne some and put small pieces pieces of butter and quartered apples, more sugar on top. (see paper-thin sheet Cover with with aa paper-thin sheet of Fine Coyer Fine lining paste paste (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Bake in a moderately hot oyen oven for about 20 to 25 minutes. The sugar should be be weil well caramelised. caramelised. Turn it out out on to a The on to serving dish so that the pastry is on top. Serve hot. serving TARrE AUx FrcuEs -- Make Make with fresh figs, figs, peeled Fig tart. TARTE AUX FIGUES (see liqueur in the same way as Strawberry tart (see and soaked in liqueur jam, sieved and flavoured apricot jam, below). Coat the fruit with apricot with liqueur. with liqueur. Fruit tart I'allemande. TARTE rARTE AUX tart l'allemande. DrvERs A Fruit FRUITS DIVERS À AUx FRUrrs L'ALLEMANDE L'ALLEMANoT -- Under this heading cornes comes aa series series of good tarts of of deservedly deservedly high reputation. reputation. Each has a special name according to the fruit used. o r apple t ar t . Made like Cherry Apfe lkuc hen or Apfelkuchen ap ple tart. C he r r y tart. t ar t. tart.Madelike Aprikosenkuchen Made like Cherry tart. Aprikosenkuchen or apricot tart. Erdbeerkuchen Erdbeerkuchen or strawberry tart. Differs from the preceding tarts in that the fruit is not cooked with the pastry. The shell is when cold, tart is baked filled with tart shell baked first first and, and, when cold, filled with the strawberries, thickly sprinkled with sugar and coated with a of whipped cream, sweetened and flavoured with thick layer of vanilla. Himbeerkuchen raspberry tart. Prepared Himbeerkuchen or raspberry Prepared in the same way substituting raspberries raspberries for strawberries. as the above, substituting strawberries. or redcurrant redcurrant tart. tart. Prepared Johannisbeerkuchen' or 10hannisbeerkuchen' Prepared like gooseberry tart (see below). Stachelbeerkuchen or gooseberry Stachelbeerkuchen Kirschenkuchen tdrt. Roll out and and turn Kirschenkuchen or German cherry tart. some Flaky Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) DOUGH) six times, sorne timeso and roll it into a ($inch) thick. round sheet of of the desired size size about 2-t 2f mm. (iinch) thick. Set Damp the edges in a pie dish lightly moistened moistened in the middle. Damp of the pastry and pinch them to make a border. Prick with a of keep it from blistering fork to keep during cooking. Sprinkle over blistering during over a powdered cinnamon. little fine sugar and powdered preserved, on Arrange the stoned cherries, cherries, either fresh fresh or preserved, Arrange the pastry, bake in a moderate oyen. Prepare a thick cherry oven. Prepare syrup by cooking cherries cherries and and sugar together. Strain, syrup Strain, and pour a good layer over when the tart is cold pour over the fruit. To finish off, bake fine breadcrumbs a pale golden colour over the tart. and sprinkle over Pflaumenkuchen Pflaumenkuchen or Kirschenor greengage tart. tart. Made Made like like Kirschenkuchen. Stachelbeerkuchen or gooseberry tart. Bake the pastry shell Stachelbeerkuchen tart.Bake picked-over fruit to the same weight of in the oyen. oven. Add the picked-over degree (see SUGAR). When sugar cooked to crack degree When the sugar down is melted, strain out the fruit with a skimmer and boil down the Remove from the heat and put the juice juice until it begins to jell. Remove

Cherry tart Cherry

tart. TARTE ranrn AUx cERIsEs -- Proceed as as for Apricot Cherry tart. AUX CERISES pastry with stoned cherries. filling the pastry tart, tart,fillingthe cherries. redcurrant jelly When tart is baked, baked, coyer cover with a film of of redcurrantjelly When the tart jam to which a little raspberry or flavoured with with sieved raspberry or cherry cherry jam cherry brandy has been added. kirsch or cherry L'ALSAcIENNE Cherry l'alsacienne. FLAN AUX CERISES il'alsacienne. FLAN AUx cERrsEsAÀ L'ALSACIENNE Cherry tart à cherries asfor -- Proceed as for Apricot Apricot tart àd l'alsacienne. I'alsacienne. Preserved cherries canbe can.be used for this flan. Demoiselles Tatin. TARTE DES DEMoTSELLES TA rATtN Tart of TIN -of Demoiselles DEs DEMOISELLES 9r7 917

TART fruit. Boil back the the fruit. Boil together together for for aamoment poural! momentthen thenpour all back together into intoaabasin. basin. When When this quitecold, this mixture mixture isisquite cold, make makeaa together layer inin the thick layer thetart, tart,and andcoat coat with withsweetened, sweetened, vanillavanillathick flavoured whipped whippedcream. cream. flavoured Fruit tart tort ài l'a1sacienne. I'alsacienne. TARTE TARTE AUX AUx FRUITS FR(nrs DIvERS olvnnsÀA Fruit L'ALSAcIENNE -- Made quetsch and Made with with quetsch plums, and mirabelle mirabelleplums, L'ALSACIENNE apples or or cherries, cherries, like like an anordinary ordinary fruit fruit tart. tart.Pour Pourcustard custard or or apples pastry cream (see CREAMS) light French French pastry cream (see CREAMS) over over the thefruit fruitafter after light has been set in pastry. inthe the pastry. been set itit has (pie). TARTE English fruit fruit tart tart (pie). rlnrE AUX AUx FRUITS FRUrrs DIVERS orvnRs ÀA Englisb pie dish L'ANGL.a.$-- Fill Fill aa pie dish with with cut cut up upapples apples or orother other fruit, fruit, L'ANGLAIS cover with with white white or or brown brown sugar sugar mixed mixed with with aalittle little chopped chopped coyer peel. Place lemon peel. Place an an egg egg cup cup or or aasaucer saucer upside upside down down in in the the lemon centre of of the the dish. dish. centre Moisten with glass of with half half aa glass water. Coyer of water. Cover the the tart tart with with Moisten Ordinary Iiningpaste pastry dough lining paste or or pastry dough II 11(see DOUGH) made made Ordinary (see DOUGH) yolk. Put with an an egg egg yolk. pastry round Put aa band band of of pastry round the the edge edge of of the the with press down dish and and press down the the edges. edges. Brush Brush the the surface surface of ofthe tart dish the tart with water water and and sprinkle sprinkle over over fine fine sugar. sugar. Bake Bake in in aamoderately moderately with hot oyen oven for for 40 40 to to 50 50 minutes. minutes. hot These tarts tarts can can also also be be flavoured flavoured withcinnamon with cinnamon or cloves.. or cloyes These The top top may may be be decorated decorated with with cut-out pieces of cut-out pieces pastry and of pastry and The with egg. brushed with egg. brushed (Austrian tart). Linzertorte (Austrian tart). TARTE rlnrs AA L'AUTRICHIENNE L'A,urRrcHrENNE -Linzertorte pastry which Viennese pastry which takes takes its its name name from from the the town town of of Linz Linz Viennese in Austria. Austria. in It isis aa tart pasre (see tart of (see DOUGH) of Lining Lining paste DOUGH) strongly strongly flavoured flavoured It jam and with cinnamon, cinnamon, filled filled with with strawberry strawberry jam and covered covered with with with criss-cross strips pastry. Linzertorte strips of of pastry. Linzertorle is generally made from is generally from criss-cross pastry which rich pastry special rich ground almonds, which incIudes includes ground almonds, cincinaa special namon, lemonjuice lernon juice and yolks in its composition. and egg egg yolks composition. namon, (Messino pastry). tart (Messina Me'gin tart pasfry). TARTE rARTE AU ME'GIN ME'crN -- Made like like Me'gin quiche lorraine with with aa mixture of eggs, aa white cheese cheese called called quiche lorraine Fremgin, well drained, drained, and fresh cream. Fremgin, well . Nectarine tart. FLAN rrlN AUX AUx BRUGNONS BRUcNoNs -- Using Using halved halved Nectarine tart. proceed as nectarines, asfor nectarines, proceed for Apricot Apricot tart. Peach ,q.ux ptcHEs for Apricot as for Apricot tart Peacb tart. tart. rrrtN FLAN AUX PÊCHES - Proceed as quartered peaches. peaches. using using halved halved or or quartered Pear Pear tart. tart. TARTE AUx AUX porREs POIRES - Made with small ripe pears cut cut into into small small pieces,llke pieces, like Apple tart. Plneapple the crust with Pineapple tart tart I.1. rlnrs TARTE AÀ r'AN^q'NAs L'ANANAS-- Prepare Prepare thecrust Short or II (see DOUGH). Short pastry pastry Ilor Il or or Flaky Flaky pastry pastry (see DOUGH). Bake Bake the pastry pastry case case empty. empty. Fill, Fill, when when cooked, cooked, with with half-slices of pineapple pineapple cooked in in syrup. syrup. Cover Coyer with sieved apricot apricot jam flavoured flavoured with with kirsch or or rum. rum. Pineapple Pineapple tart tart II. II. IARTE TARTE AÀ L'lNaN^a,s L'ANANAS - Roll out out a round or

squareof pastry(see (seeDOUGH). ofFlaky Flakypastry DOUGH).Incise Incisethislightly square this lightly33cm. cm. (lf inches) inches)from fromthe theedge. edge.Set Setininthe themiddle middlethin (Ii thinslices slicesofof cookedor rawpineapple. pineapple.Sprinkle orraw Sprinklewith withfine cooked finesugar. sugar.Brush Brushthe the pastrywith edgesof thepastry ofthe withegg eggand andbake edges bakeininaahot hotoyen. oven.When When pineapple with cooked, coat coat the thepineapple withsieved sievedapricotjam. cooked, apricot jam. pRrJNEs - Made Plumtart. tart.TARTE TARrEAUX AUXPRUNES Plum greengages, withgreengages, - Madewith quetsheslike mirabelles or orquetsches Apricot tart. mirabelles like Apricot tart. pRUNEsÀAL'ALSACIENNE Plumtart tartàil'alsacienne. I'alsacienne.TARTE TARrEAUX Plum AUxPRUNES r'.lls.lcrsNNn quetsches ininthe Made with withquetsches thesame -- Made sameway wayasasApple Appletart tartàd

/'I'alsacienne. alsacienne. Raspberrytart. tart.TARTE TARTE AUX Raspberry AUx FRAMBOISES FRAMBorsns- - Made Made with withraw raw raspberries as asdescribed described ininthe therecipe recipefor raspberries forStrawberry Strawbeny tart. tart. English rhubarb rhubarb tart. tart.TARTE TARrEÀALA English r,c,RHUBARBE nHunARssÀAL'ANGLAISEL'aNcrArsE Useaaspecial special English piedish Englishpie Use dish or oraafireproof fireproof dish dish.. (l| lb.)ofofrhubarb Cut 750 750g.g.O!lb.) rhubarb from Cut palepink pinkstalks from the thepale stalks inin the middle middleof plant. Wash, of the the plant. the peel and Wash, dry, dry, peel andcut cutthem them into into chunks 55cm. cm. (2(2 inches) inches) long. chunks long. Arrange Arrange these theseininlayers layers ininthe the dish, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with aamixture dish, mixture of of white white and and brown brown sugar, sugar, g.(4 (4oz., allowing 125 125 g. oz.,l1 cup) allowing cup) ofeach. of each. Pourin Pour in33tablespoons tablespoons (4(4 tablespoons) water. water. tablespoons) Roll out out Flaky Flaky pastry pasty or Roll or Ordinary Ordinary lining pasteor pastry lining paste or pastry (see DOUGH) dough Il 11 (see DOUGH) into dough into an an oval oval shape shape if cm. cm. ({ inch) inch) thick, aa little little bigger thick, bigger than than the the top top of the dish. of the dish. Fix Fix aastrip strip of of pastry 3! 3* cm. c-. (1(l{t inches) inches) wide pastry wide to to the piedish the edge edge of of the the pie dish with with water. Moisten Moisten lightly, place the water. lightly, place pastry sheet the pastry sheet on on top, top,cut cut off off paste, and the surplus surplus paste, press the the and press the edges edges weil. well. lightly with Brush lightly Brush with egg. egg. Make Make aa hole hole in in the the middle middle of of the the pastry lid pastry lid to to allow allow steam steam to to escape, escape, and and bake in aa moderately bake in moderately for about hot oyen hot oven for about 30 30 to to 40 40 minutes. minutes. This tart This tart isis eaten eaten cold cold and and isis usually usually served served with with sweetened sweetened whipped cream. whipped cream. Strawberry Sfrawberry tart. tart. TARTE rnnrr AUX AUx FRAISES FRArsEs -- Line Line aa flan flan ring with ring with paste (Pastry (Pastry dough Lining Lining paste dough 1I or (see pastry (see or Il) II) or or Short Short pastry DOUGH). DOUGH). Bakeempty, Bake empty, and and fill fill with with strawberries, strawberries, hulled hulled and and

ct

jelly flavoured rolled rolled in in sugar. sugar. Coat Coat with with currant currant jeHy flavoured with with jam flavoured raspberry, raspberry, or with sieved or with sieved cherry cherry jam flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Tangerine Tangerine tian. (r.lnrn) ÀA LA flan. GÂTEAU cArplu (TARTE) r,c MANDARINE rr,rA,NDARrNE -Ingredients. (4 oz., g. (4 Ingredients. 125 125 g. oz., ii cup) cup) blanched g. blanched almonds, almonds, 125 125 g. (4 oz., !* cup) fine (4 fine sugar, sugar, 44 eggs, eggs, 22 candied candied tangerine peels, 22 tangerine peels, "up) of drops essence of bitter bitter almond, almond, 1I to 22 drops drops vanilla essence, essence, 1I tablespoon thick apricot purée. pur6e. Method. Pound Pound the almonds almonds finely in aa mortar, mortar, adding adding the the eggs one by one. Add the tangerine tangerine peel, peel, very very finely finely chopped, chopped, the sugar, the sugar, vanilla and and almond almond essence pur6e. Mix essence and and the the purée. Mix weil. well. Line aa flan ring with Short pastry II (see DOUGH). Spread ^I/(see DOUGH). Spread

...

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1

Qllelsch plum plllm tan('A tart('A I'Alsacienne'. l'Alsacienne'. Phot. Phol. Itrousse) Larousse)

Linzertorte Linzertorte(Claire) (Claire)

Quetsch

918 918

TEA TEA cases or sbeDs. shells. CROÛTES cno0rrs DE DE TARTELETTES TARTELETTSs -- Cases Cases or or Tartlet cases pastry tins, either shells made in round pastry shells either fluted or or plain, and of of diameters, according to to the the nature of of the the preparavarious diameters, tion. tins are lined lined with Short pastry, The tins pastry, Semi-flaky or Flaky (see DOUGH). pastry (see DOUGH). tarflets. TARTELETTES TARTELETTEs AUX in Apricot tartlets. AUx ABRICOTS ABRrcors -- Made Made in (barquettes), in various shapes, shapes, round, round, oval, various boat-shaped (barquettes), oval, boat-shaped in moulds and rings, which are buttered and lined with very thin Lining paste (pastry dough 1) Lining I) or F1aky Flaky pastry (see DOUGH). DOUGH). The fillings and the baking are the same as for tarts. Cherry tartlets. TARTELETTES AUX Cherry tartlets. TARTELETTES AUx CERISES cERrsEs -- Line Line tartlet moulds with Lining pas te (pastry dough 1) Lining paste I) or F1aky Flaky pastry (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Prick the (see bottoms lightly with the bottoms with aa fork. fork. Fill with stoned cherries. Bake in a fairly hot oyen. oven. Turn out out the the tartlets Turn tartlets and and coat coat the the fruit fruit with with melted jelly. These tartlets redcurrant redcurrant jelly. tartlets may may be with cherries made with be made preserved in syrup. Strawberry, raspberry, raspberry, pGtr, plum tartlets. Strawberry, pear, apple, apple, plum TARTELETTES AUX TARTELETTES FRAISES, FRAMBOISES, AUX FRAISES, FRAMBOISES, POIRES, POIRES, POMMES, PRUNES - Made in the same nRUNES previous tartlets. same way as the previous

aa layer mixture layer of of tangerine tangerine pur6e purée on the bottom. bottom. Fill with the mixture prepared bake in a moderate oven. oyen. When prepared in the mortar, and bake

the flan is cold, spread sprinkle with spread with apricot apricot jam jarn and and sprinkle

chopped seconds to brown Put in in the the oven oyen for a few seconds brown chopped almonds. almonds. Put the the almonds. almonds.

Acid found found in in aa large -- Acid number of fruits fruits and and which which is is extracted extracted from from the the lees lees (dregs (dregs or number of sediment) sediment) of of wine. wine. ItIt is is used used to to prepare prepare mineral mineral drinks, drinks, aa syrup, syrup, and effervescent effervescent powders, and is also added added to aa 'must' which lacks this case, but not for for wines lacks acidity acidity (its (its use use is tolerated in this which which have have to be be acidulated, ifif necessary, with with citric acid). It is is also used used as a raising agent.

TARTARIC TART ARIC ACID. ACID. rARrRIeuE TARTRIQUE

TARTINE -- Slice of bread bread spread with jam or with butter, jam or any other substance of the right right consistency. consistency. It is is also also another name for a small tart. name (see Swiss tartines. TARTINES Swiss tartines. TARTTNES SUlSSES pasty (see sutssEs -- Roll out F1aky Flaky pastry ($ inch) 21 mm. mm. (~ inch) thick thick after DOUGH), about about 2j after it it has has been tumed 7 times. Cut into rectangles 10 turned l0 cm. crn. (4 inches) long and 5 cm. (2 inches) wide. Set these on a baking sheet, brush with 5 egg, and bake in aa fairly hot oyen. oven. Sprinkle with fine fine sugar return to the oyen and return oven to glaze. Cool on aa cake rack. Split the tartines on one side side and and fil fill1 with with the following cream: Mix together together in aa saucepan 100 g. (4 oz., Mix oz.,l1 cup) sugar, 50 50 g. (2 (2 oz., 1 cup) sifted flour and 4 egg yolks. yolks. Add pinch of Add aa pinch * crrp) vanilla sugar or a few drops of vanilla essence. Stir in 4 dl. (i vanilla of vanilla G pint, scant 2 cups) milk and mix. Cool, stirring constantly. 25 g. (1 oz., 2 tablespoons) butter Remove from from heat and add 25 Remove oz.,2tablespoons) 9.0 stiffly beaten egg whites. whites. and 33 stifry

Garnished tartlets lartlelS and and other olher little liltle hot hol pastry paslry hors-d'oeuvre hors-d'oeuvre Garnished

T ARTLET. TARTELETTETARTELETTE - This This small small cake cake is is of of ancient ancient origin, origin, TARTLET. and was was already already known known in the the sixteenth century century when when it was and ajiannet, aa word word which which is aa diminutive diminutive of ofjian. called aflannet, called flan. made in the the same way as large tarts and are Tartlets are made filled in the the same same way, way, either either with fruits of different kinds, filled or other other mixtures. mixtures. creams, or creams, hors-d' œuvre or Tartlets with with savoury savoury fillings fillings are served as as hors-d'euvre Tartlets (EUVRE, H small ent entrées. HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hors-d'œuvre.) r t es. ((See small See HORS-D' o t ho r s- d' e uv r e.)

SAVEUR - Sensation T ASTE, FLAVOUR. FLA VOUR. sAvEUR TASTE, Sensation excited excited in certain of the mouth mouth by by contact with with various substances. organs of organs A classification of flavours has often been attempted, but measurement such classifications as there is no standard of measurement classifications It is is possible to to distinguish remain vague and and uncertain. uncertain. It remain distinguish are sweet, sweet, acid, acid, salt y, sour but the tastes that are tastes salty, and bitter but sour and difficulty lies in establishing the the demarcation between between one difficulty type and and another. another. These These are are far far from from being being precise; the type of each substance cornes from the combination flavour of substance comes combination of a number of of basic flavours. number perceived salt y and sour tastes are generally better perceived Sweet, salty when hot. hot. Some Sorne flavours, flavours, apparently apparently opwhen cold than when posed. may may actually actually reinforce reinforce each each other other ififthey posed, they are are combined proportions; a sweet solution solution appears appears sweeter sweeter if a certain proportions; in certain or sour sour solution, solution, diluted dilutedjust the point point where lias no salt y or just to the salty where it has of its own, is added added to to it. A A little little salt salt is is sometimes sometimes more taste taste of more to sweet sweet dishes. dishes. added to added

Filling Filling lartlet cases cases tartlet baked blind blind baked

TASTING -- See See SAVOURING. SAVOURING. TASTING TÂTE-VIN silver-plated cup, cup, often decorated, decorated, TATE VIN -- Silver or silver-plated used used

examining and tasting wine. wine. for examining

TA VEL -- A A very very popular, popular, full-bodied full-bodied dry ros6 rosé wine wine from TAVEL from the département of of Gard. It 1t has has an an appellation appellation dorigine d'origine contr6l6e contrôlée dtpartemenl usually placed in in· the category of C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne Rhône and is usually méridionales. m6ridionales. THÉ - Tea, the most most universally universally consumed consumed of of all ail TEA. ruf TEA. - Tea, the

beverages, is is made made from from the the leaves leaves of of Cennellia Camellia sinensis, tree beverages, sinensis, aatree that in in its its wild wild state state can can reach reach the the height height of of 10 10 metres metres (30 (30 feet). feet). that 919 919

TEA

Tâte-vin

ItIt isis native native to to Assam, Assam, China China and Japan. Japan. Tea Tea was brought brought to Europe Europe by by the the Dutch Dutch in in 1610 and to England England in in 1644. lt It arrived arrived in in the the U.S.A. U.S.A. in in the the early early eighteenth eighteenth century. Tea-growing Tea-growing in in China China and and Japan Japan dates back back to prehistoric prehistoric times, but itit was was not not started in in India India and and Ceylon Ceylon (now (now called times, but Sri Lanka) Lanka) until until 1865. 1865. India India and and Ceylon Ceylon are are now now the the largest largest tea tea exporters exporters in in the world. largest tea tea import to the the United States comes cornes world. The largest from from Japan Japan and and Formosa; Formosa; England England and and Russia import import enonnous enonnous quantities from from India and and China China respectively. respectively. China China is is the the largest largest producer producer of of tea tea but but does not not lead lead in the export trade. trade. export Tea Tea isis grown grown both both on on open open fields fields and and on on terraced terraced hillsides. hillsides. requires aa warrn wann climate climate with with aa very very heavy heavy rainfall rainfa1l225-500 ItIt requires 225-500 cm to 200 200 inches). inches). For For fine fine tea, tea, the the first first one one or two two tiny tiny cm (90 (90 to leaves which which appear appear at at the the end end of of each each twig, twig, during during 'flushes' 'flushes' leaves or growing growing periods, periods, are are plucked. plucked. The The third third and and fourth fourth leaves leaves or in coarse coarse teas. teas. These These pickings pickings occur occur 10 lOto 25 are used used only only in are to 25 times aa year year in in Formosa Fonnosa and and every every l0 10 to to l2 12 days days in in Ceylon. Ceylon. times The principal principal difference difference in in teas te as lies lies in in the the treatment treatment of of the the The are leaves. Black Black tea tea comes cornes from from leaves leaves that, that, partly partly dried, are leaves. piled piled up up to to ferment fennent before before being being toasted. toasted. Green Green tea tea comes cornes that have have been been fired fired immediately immediately after after harvesting, harvesting, from leaves leaves that from and isis unfermented. unfennented. Oolong Oolong tea tea isis semi-fermented. semi-fennented. and The following following are are the the best best known known grades grades of of tea: tea: Pekoe, Pekoe, The orange Pekoe, Pekoe, Souchong, Souchong, Lapsang, Lapsang, Congou Congou and and Oolong. Oolong. orange oftea tea contain contain aromatic aromatic ingredients, ingredients, caffeine caffeine and and Infusions of Infusions tannin. It It is is aa pleasant, pleasant, stimulating stimulating drink drink which, which, taken taken in in tannin.

Harvesting tea (from (from aa Chinese Chinese painting) painting) Harvesting

moderate quantities, quantities, aids the digestion and in hot countries moderate constitutes one of the best ways to drink water, since this constitutes used. must necessarily necessarily be boiled before before it is used. must Ta make tea.Tea tea. Tea is very delicate delicate and must be kept in airTo in a a dry place, well weil away from from any tight containers in any food might contaminate contaminate it. The The teapot, for for the same whose odours might whose same reason, must must be kept exclusively for making making tea. Only pure reason, make it, and and that as free from lime as as water must must be be used used to make water possible. possible. is very very important important to rinse rinse the teapot teapot first by rinsing rinsing it out ItIt is with boiling boiling water. water. When When this this has has been been done, done, the tea tea is is put put in, with 'for the the pot'. pot'. The The water one teaspoon teaspoon for for each each person person plus plus one 'for one must be be absolutely absolutely boiling. boiling. The The infusion infusion is is ready ready at at the the end end of must or 66 minutes. minutes. After After this this time time it becomes becomes too too strong, charged charged 55 or tannin. That That is is why why teapots teapots which which cut cut off contact with tannin. between the the tea-leaves tea-leaves and the infusion are to be be recombetween tea-spoons. Certain Certain brands of mended, as are tea-balls tea-balls and tea-spoons. mended, tea are are sold sold in in small small muslin muslin or or paper paper sachets, sachets, each each containing containing tea cups. These sachets are enough tea tea for one, two two or more cups. enough

8ranch of oftea tea Branch with fruits fruits with

Tea caddy caddy of ofQueen Queen Marie-Antoinette, Marie-Antoinette, Tea soft-paste Sdvres Sèvres porcelain, porcelain. enamel enamel work work soft-paste by Cotteau Cotteau ((1784--1785) by l 784-l 785)

920 920

TERRAPIN TERRAPIN

(i{icolas) cup (Nicolas) Tea: teapots and cup teapots and Tea:

jumping out the out of of the of jumping capable of that itit isis capable L6mery claimed claimed that Lémery partially fried! fried ! pan even cut up up and and partially been cut having been even after after having frying pan frying (q.v.).lt matelote (q.v.). ingredient of of matelote as an an ingredient Tench isis used mainly as used mainly Tench It (see prepared àh lala meunière meuniire (see fried or or prepared also be be - fried may also may LA). MEUNIERE, ÀA LA). MEUNIÈRE,

practical because the always to the because they allow the tea to be made always same at the right moment. same strength and check infusion at such The name 'tea' is sometimes given to to other other infusions such name'tea'is sometimes given as (see MATÉ), thb St.-Germain, St.'Germain, MATE), thé tea (see tea, Paraguay Paraguay tea as Jesuit's Jesuit's tea, thé healing tea, aa healing or Swiss Swiss tea, tea), aa purgative, or de santé sanft (health tea), thA de given to lotion. me beef to aa tea isis given name beef tea the na way the In the same way lotion. In the same preparation preparation made from from minced meat. Tea ice- See ICE ICES. AND ICES. ICE CREAMS CREAMS AND Teaice-See

varying in forro form and and varying round or or fiat flat in Roped fibres, fibres, round TENDON -- Roped TENDON constitute mass and and constitute muscular mass which finish finish off off the the muscular in length, length, which in be fibres cannot cannot be Tendon fibres to the the bone. bone. Tendon of attachment attachment to its means means of its cooking they they exude exudeaa intestines. In In cooking human intestines. the human by the digested by digested gelatine. amount of of gelatine. certain amount certain

TEAL. passage with with aa palmiped, bird of passage bird of Wild palmiped, SARcELLE -- Wild TEAL. SARCELLE light with white-bellied, with with black, marked with black, white-bellied, breast marked light brown brown breast grey generally little little and generally flesh isis oily, oily, and grey wings, tip. Its Its fiesh white at at the the tip. wings, white regarded. (see DUCK). DUCK). like wild wild duck duck (see Teal is is cooked cooked like regarded. Teal

almost truffie, which which isisalmost white African African trufHe, Large white TERFEZIA -- Large TERFEZIA most often often but isis most like black black trufHe, truffie, but can be be used used like tasteless. ItIt can tasteless. (See TRUFFLE.) TRUFFLE.) raw in in salado salad. (See eaten raw eaten

TEAPOT. porcelain pottery, porcelain made of of pottery, Receptacle made rrmriire -- Receptacle TEAPOT. THÉIÈRE or serve tea. tea. used to to infuse infuse and and serve metal used or metal

North originating inin North turtle originating renupiun Small turtle TERRAPIN. TERRA TERRAPIN. PÈNE -- Small who, greatly prized prized by Americans, who, some Americans, by sorne America. ItIt isis greatly America. itsshell, shell, cover its scales that that coyer the faceted faceted scaJes of the the shape shapeof of the because of because caJl it diamond-back. callit diamond-back.

TENCH. deep of aa deep fish of freshwater fish scaled freshwater TANcHE -- Small, Small, scaled TENCH. TANCHE olive our. Its fished green col rather delicate delicate ifif itit isis fished Its fiesh flesh isis rather colour. olive green directly rather can be be rather and rivers, rivers, otherwise otherwise itit can streams and from streams directly from tough cooking. soaked in in water water before before cooking. and should should be be soaked tough and

Red Redspotted spottedMongolian Mongolian tench tench

Common tench Corn mon tencb

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TERRINE TERRINE To cook cook terrapin. teruapin. Put Put the the tunle turtle in in aa large large bowl bowl of fresh of fresh To water and and leave leave itit there there for for aa time, time, changing changing the the waler water every every water half hour. Wash Wash and plunging itit into and scald scald itit by by plllnging into aasaucepan saucepan of of halfhour. boiling water. water. Leave Leave itit in in tbis water until this water until the the white white skin skin which which boiling covers the the head head and and feet feet can can be be taken taken off offby rubbing with with aa covers hy rubbing cloth. cloth. Cook the the terra terrapin in boiling boiling water water without without salt. salt, or it. or steam steam il. Cook pin in This cooking, cooking, which which varies varies in in time time with with the the size size of of the the animal. animal, This should not not exceed exceed 45 45 minutes. minutes. If If the the flesh flesh on the feet 'gives' on the feet 'gives' should gentle pressure pressure of under gentle ofthe fingers, the the terra terrapin ready. under the fingers, pin isis ready. Allow to to cool. cool. Remove Remove tbe the hard hard scales. scales, and and with with aa knife knife AJlow part, or detach the the fiat flat part, pastron, from or paSfron, from under under the the shell. shell. Also Also delach remove the the feet; feet; cut cut these pieces about these into into pieces (lf inches) about 44 cm. cm. (l~ inches) remove in size. size. in Remove the the liver, liver, taking taking care care not puncture the not to to puncture gall the gall Remove remove this bladder; remove this from from the the liver liver and parts of and eut cut off offall of the the bladder; ail parts liver adjoining adjoining il. it. The The heart, heart, entrails entrails and and internaI internal white white liver muscles must must be be ddiscarded. muscles isca rded. Remove the the eggs eggs very very carefully. carefully. Put Put these these in in aa heat-proof heat-proof Remove dish with with the the fect, feet, the the sliced sliced liver liver and and the the shell pieces cut into pieces shell cutinto dish the same same size size as as the the feet. feet. Season Season wÎlh pepper and with salt. salt, pepper and tbe cayenne. Barely Barely caver cover with with water. water, bring bring 10 to the the boil, boil, and and finish finish cayenne. cooking in in aa cool cool oven oven for for 25 25 ta to 30 30 minutes. minutes. cooking

TETON DE DE VÉNUS VEI{US -- AA variety variety of peach. of peach. TÉTON

THAO -- Japanese Japanese name name for for the gelose. (See (See the agar-agar agar-agar or or gelose. THAO AGAR-AGAR.) AGAR-AGAR.) THICKEI\ilNG. LIAISON rHrsox -- Process Process designed give body designed to to give body to to aa l1HCKENING. food, sauce liquid food, sauce or or broth. broth. Thickening Thickening with with flOUT flour or or starch starch liquid consists ofmaking of making aa stable paste by stable paste by heating. heating. Thickening Thickening with with consists yolk or egg yolk or blood, blood, which which forms forms emulsions. emulsions, must must be be effectcd effected at at egg c (175'F.) since temperature below below 80 proteins curdle 80"C. since the the proteins curdle aa temperature e. (175°F.) at aa higher higher temperature. temperature. at Thickening with with arrowroot. arrowroot. LIAISON L'Annow-Roor -r,llrsoN ÀA L'ARROW-ROOT Thickening Pour 33 to to 44 g.g. (1(l teaspoon) teaspoon) arrowroot arrowroot mixed mixed with with aa few few Pour j litre (seant tablespoons of of cold (scant pinto cold stock stock into into -tlitre pint, 2i 2f, cups) cups) tablespoons boiling stock stock or orjuice. kave itit on on heat for aa few few seconds. seconds. Mix heat for Mix boiling juice. Leave and strain. strain. and Thickening with with kncaded kneadedbutter. LrArsoN AU AU BEURRE BEURRE MAN!tM.lr.rrEThickcni.ng butter. LIAISON quick method A very very quick method of of thickening, thickening, mainly mainly used give the used to to gi\'C the A desired consistency consistency to to the the sauces sauces of stewed fish of stewed fish or or matelotes. matelotes. desîred To thicken (lf pints, thicken 1I litre pints, generous litre (Il generous quart) quart) of of Iiquid, liquid, mix mix Ta g. (3 (3 oz., thoroughly 75 75 g. (a oz cup) flOUf flour with oz., f; cup) g. (4 with 100 100 g. oz., cup) thoroughly .• 1I cup) butter. butter. Thickening ili la la meunière. meuniire. LIAISON LrArsoN À rdEUNdnB -- A A LA r-,c, MEUNIÈRE A Tbickening smooth mixture mixture of flour and and water. of flour water. This This is is added added to to stocks stocks smootb give them the desired consistency. and sauces sauces to give consistency. Thickening with aa roux. LIAISON LrArsoN AU Roux -- A AU ROUX A roux roux can can be Ttlickening golden or white, golden or brown. brown. Usually it is made from from butter butter and and white, flour, but but other other fat fat may may be be used used instead instead of of butter. butter. (See flour, ROUX.) ROUX.) Thickening with with tapioca tapioca for for soups. soups. LiAISON LrArsoN AU rAprocA AU TAPIOCA Ttùckening pouR POTAGE porAGE - Bring (lf pints, to the bail boil 1I litre litre (1 POUR pinlS, generous - Bring ta quart) clcar (consomm6). Sprinkle 3 tablespoons clear soup (consommé). tablespoons (scant quart) c,rp) of of tapioca into il. it. Boil for Stiain through through for 18 minutes. Strain * cup) muslin or fine sieve. sieve. muslin

t

TERRINE -- Earthenware Earthenware dish dish in in which which meat. game aud meat, game fish and fish TERRlNE are cooked. cooked. The The word word terrine terrine is is also also used used ta to designate designate the the are food itself; itself; for for example, example, terrine gras, of terrine offoie offoie gras, of chicken, chicken, etc. etc. food of meat, meat, fish, Terrines of fish, etc. etc. must must be be complelely completely cold cold before before Terrines they are are eaten. eaten. They They can can be kept for be kept for sorne perfect some days days in in perfect they put in condition if are put in aa cool place. cool place. condition if tthey hey are Terrine of of duckling. duckling. TER TERRTNE DE CANETON clNsroN -- Bone Bone aa duc duckling Tenine R!NE DE kling completely and and reserve reserve the the skin. skin. Remove Remove aIl all the the flesh flesh from from the completely legs Cut the breast into into large large dice. dice. Put into aa bowl legs and and breast. breast. Cut the breast Put ioto bowl g. (4 with cup) diced diced lean (4 OZ ham and g. (4 and 100 100 g. oz., 1 with 100 100 g. (4 o2.,1 oz., 1 cup) lean ham .• 1 cup) diced bacon Season with with salt, salt, pepper and spices. spices. cup) dÎced bacon fat. fat. Season pepper and Sprinkle with (3 tablespoons) MarSprinkle with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) brandy. brandy. MaTinate inate for for 22 hours. hOUTS. Chop finely the flesh of the legs and add to it 150 g. (5 oz .• _ Chop finely the flesh of the legs and add to it 150 g. (5 oz., lfcups) (5 oz.,llcups) g. and 250 250 g. licups) lean lean pork pork meat, meat, 150 150 E. g. (5 OZ., If cups) veal veal and (9 (9 oz., oz., 2| 2i cups) cups) fresh fresh pork pork fat, fat, all ail finely finely chopped. chopped. Pouni Pound together together in in aa mortar mortar and and season season with with spiced spiced salt. salt. Bind Bind with with 22 whole whole eggs. eggs. Add Add 2 2 liqueur liqueur glasses glasses brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through aa sieve. sieve. Put Put this this mixture mixture into into the the bowl bowl where where the the duckling duckling has has been been marinating. marinating. Add Add the the liver liver cut cut into iota small small pieces pieces and and fried fried in in very skin of butter. Mix Mix well. weIl. Re-fill Re-fill the the·skin of the the duckling duckling with with very hot hot butter. this this mixture mixture and and shape shape into into aa roll. roll. Press Press into into an an oval oval terrine terrine lined lined with with thin thin pieces pieces of of bacon bacon fat. faL Put Put the the terrine terrine in in aa baking baking tin tin half-filled half-tiIled with with warm warm water. water. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven, oven. for for about about l{ Il hours. hours. (The (The cooking cooking time time of of terrines terrines of of poultry pOllltry and and other other meats meats can can judged be by the appearance be judged by the appearance of of the the fat fat that that rises rises to to the the surface; surface; ifif this this fat fat isis clear, clear. the the terrine terrine isis cooked. cooked. ItIt can can also also be be tested long trussing trussing needle needle into into the the meat. meal. If If the the tested by by inserting inserting aa long needle needle is is hot hot when when itit is is withdrawn withdrawn the the meat meat is is cooked.) cooked.) Cool Cool the the teruine terrine under un der pressure pressure (a (a weight weight set set on on aa cover coyer cut cut to to the the shape shape of ofthe the terrine). terrine). The The next next day day remove remove the the fat fat which which has has risen risen to to the the surface surface and and replace replace itit with with aa layer layer of of jelly jelly made made from from aa knuckle, knuckle. aa calf's calf's foot foot and and the the duckling duckling giblets. giblets. Cool the terrine once more. Turn Cool the terrine once more. Turn out out before before serving. serving. lfIf the the terrine terrine isis to ta be bc kept kept for for several several days, days. thejelly thejelly should should be be replaced replaced by by half-melted half-melted lard. lard.

t

±

THIRTEEN AT AT TTABLE. TREIZE A THIRTEEN ABLE. TREIZE À SUPERSTITIONS THE TABLE. TABLE. SUPERSTITIONS OF THE THISTLE. cHARDoN THISTLE. CHARDON

Wild -- Wild

TABLE -

TABLE

See

plant plant from from which which artichokes

and and cardoons cardoons derive. derive. Different Different kinds of of wild thistle trustle are are eaten, some sorne for for their their flower head like like the thc artichoke, artichoke. some sornc for their stems stems and and leaves, Ieaves. like like the the cardoon, cardoon, and some sorne for for their their roots.

THONINE THONINE - Species Species of of tunny tunny (tuna (tuna fish) found only in the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. (See (See TUNNY.) TUNNY.) THONNE THONNE -- A A way of of cooking cooking veal. The meat is marinated marinated for for a a long long time time with with oil, oil, lemon lemon juice, juice. thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf and spices spices before before being being cooked, cooked. and and is is cooked cooked with tuna tuna fish. THORINS THORINS - Wine Wine harvested harvested tnthe in the dtpartement départemelll of of Sa6ne-etSaone-etLoire, Loire, classed classed among among the the best best Burgundies. Burgundies.

THOURINS THOURINS or or TOURIN TOURIN - Onion-based Onion-based soup soup much much

favoured favoured in in the the south south of of France France and and other parts parts of of the the country. country. Itlt should sbould not, not. however, however, be be confused confused with with soupe soupe dà I'oignon l'oignon also also called called soupe soupe au au fromage, fromage, eaten eaten under under the the name name of of grafinee. gratinée. Cook Cook in in butter, butter, without without allowing allowing them them to to brown, brown, 300 300 g. g. (11 (II oz., OZ., 33cups) cups) finely fine1y chopped chopped onions. onions. Sprinkle $prinkJe them them with with 25 25 g. g. (1 (1 oz., oz., Ii cup) cup) flour, flour, stirring stirring all ail the the time time with with aa wooden wooden spoon. spoon. Stir Stir in in 2litres 2 litres (3| (l! pints, pints. 4| 41 pints) pints) boiled boiled milk. milk. Season Season with with salt salt and and freshly freshly ground ground pepper. pepper. Cook Cook very very slowly slowly for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. AA few few minutes minutes before before serving serving thicken thicken the the soup soup with with 44 egg egg yolks beatenwith with 33dl. dl. $(!pint, pint, lfli cups) cups) fresh fresh cream, cream, and and add add 22 yolks beaten tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter. butter. Serve Serve with with thin thin slices slices of ofFrench French bread bread dried dried in in the the oven. aven. Thourins Thourins ià la la provengale provençale -- Prepare Prepare the the soup soup as as above. above. Before Before thickening thickening itit with with egg egg yolks yolks and and cream, cream. add add 75 75 g. g. (3 (3 oz., oz.,! cup)coarse coarsevennicelli vermicelli and and poach poach ininthe the soup. soup. Serve Serve with with ]cup) grated grated cheese. cheese.

TETE TÊTE D'ALOYAU D'ALOYAU -- In ln French French butchery, butchery, the the part part of of beef beef

found found at at the tbe end end of ofthe the rump. rump. f0fn TÊTEOB DE CUVEE CUVÉE-- Choice Choicewine wine obtained obtained from from crushing crushingthe the grape grape (vin (vin de degoutte) goutle) before before the the wine-press wine-press isis used. used.

_ TETT TÈTEDE DEMORT MORT - SCC See CHEESE. CHEESE.

922 922

TIERED TIERED PLINTH PLINTH Thrushes Thrushes with witb grapes. gr a pes. cRIvEs GRlVES AUX AUX RArsINs RAlSINS - Cook Cook in in aa grapes (see quails casserole Casserole of ofq un ils with withgrapes (sec QUAIL). QUAIL). casserole as as Casserole Thrushes au gfatin. cRIvEs GRIVES AU AU cnc,TIN-Put GRATIN - Put inside insîde each each bird bird a piece of h gratin game stuffing sluffing (see (sec FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) the the size size of aa walnut, of the the thrushes thrushes added. added, walnut, with with the chopped chopped giblets giblets of Flavour Flavour with with aa few few crushed crushed juniper j uniper berries. berries. Truss in butter. butter. Spread Truss the the birds birds and and brown brown them them quickly quicldy in on on aa buttered buttered heat-proof n,...~,,_r.rn,rlf dish a layer of it gratin game stuffing (see (see FORCEMEAT) I cm (* inch) thick. Press the thrushes gently gcntly into ioto the the stuffing. Coat them with thick Duxelles sauce

THRUSH. cRIvE GRlVn -- Bird Bird of of medium medium size whose whose plumage plumage isis THRUSH. speckled speckled with with black black or or reddish reddish spots. spots. There There are are various various types types of of thrush. thrush. The The song song thrushmakes Ihrush makes excellent eating, itit grows fat fat on of grapes ! The missal missal thrush, Ihrush, also also called the great on aa diet diet of Ihrush, has bas less delicate flesh flesh than than the the song song thrush. The thrush, redwing redwing is is excellent excellent game game but but the fieldfare, fieldfare, a a native native of of Northern Northern Europe, Europe, in in insipid in in flavour. flavour. Thrushes in various variollS ways. They are best Tbrushes can be cooked in roasted, slice ofbread of bread fried in in the the roasted, and should be he served on a slice cooking fat. in England EngJand and and U.S.A., U.S.A" fat. Although Although common in thrushes are are rarely, rarely, if if ever, ever, eaten in in these these countries. countries. In thrushes England they nOl allowed allowed to ta be be killed. killed. they are are protected protccted birds birds and and nol Thrushes ili loardennaise. l'ardennaise. cRIvEs GRIVES EN EN cRoOrE CROÛTE AÀ t'mDnNx.llsu L'ARDENNAISE Bane 88 thrushes thrushes along along the the back. back. Season Season with with Spiced Spiced salt sali (see (sec -- Bone SA LT). Stuff each each with with a little ]iule fine stuffing st uffing the the size size of of a SALT). dicedfoie gras walnut, walnut, enriched ennched with wîth chopped chopped thrush's thrush's livers, dicedfoie gras and truffies, truffles, well weIl seasoned, seasoned, with aa few few crushed juniper berries bernes added. Wrap each in a piece added. Fold the birds birds back into shape. Wrap pig's caul or ofpig's or salt pork. park. Place Place them, them, closely closely packed, packed, in a pan of of the birds, a chopped containing the bones and trimmings trimmings of containing carrot carrot and onion, anion, all al! browned in butter. butter. 12 melted butter. butter. Braise in in the the oven oven for for 12 Sprinkle with melted minutes. Drain the thrushes th rushes and remove remove wrapping, wrapping. and put in a large bread crust crusC which which has has been been scooped scooped out, them in them oven. Line the the crust with inside and browned in the aven. buttered inside chicken livers the followinggratin stufrng: chicken livers browned in grated bacon fat, well weil seasoned mushrooms pounded in aa mortar, with sieved sicved egg yolks. and mixed with Just before oven for a few minutes. Just Put this'pie' this 'pie' into the aven before serving pour the following sauce over the thrushes. thrushcs. Moisten Moisten serving pour the boiled-down dl. $ pint, scant cup) boiled-down braising stock with 2 dl. dl. (} cups) Demi-glace down. Add 3 dl. sherry. Boil (} pint, pinl, lf li cups) Demi-glace sherry. Boil down. and for aa moment or two, SAUCE). Boil for sauce (see SAUCE), sauce two, strain, and of truffie truffle tossed tossed in very hot butter. add thick slices of BoNNE-FEMME - Truss cnlvrs AÀ LA BONNE-FEMME Thrush ài la bonne oonne femme. GRIVES Tbrush cook the birds and birds in butter in aa heat-proof heat-proof casserole with and cook gmall pieces bread. Sprinkle larding bacon of larding bacon and diced fried bread. small pîeces of in with a little brandy and pour on some game gravy. Serve in were cooked. casserole in which the birds were the casserole garnished be garnished cooked àd la la bonne femme should be All birds AlI birds cookcd potatoes, eut larding smallIl onions onions and Jarding cut in to olive shapes, sm3 with potatoes, bacon, cooked with the poultry or game. bacon. (quails, the bonne bonne larks etc.) etc.) the small birds birds (qua thrushes, larks For 5mall For ils, thrushes, small pieces of larding bacon femme garnish consists only of small femme been and diced bread fried in the butter in which the bird has been cooked. cooked. season the the Bone and season en caisses. EN CAISSES cAIssEs -- Bane Thrush eu caiss€s. GRIVES cRIvEs r:N Tbrusb (see gratin game stuffing (see Fill each with aa liule little ild gratin thrushes. FijI each with thrushes. of a walnut containing a small piece FORCEMEAT) the size ofa FORCEMEAT) gras and their Remake the birds into their and aa sq square of trufle. Remake of foie gras ofjoie uare oftruffte. greaseproof pieces of shape and wrap in in pieces of buttered buttered greaseproof and wrap original shape original packed, in heat-proof paper. Put in aa buttered beat-proof Put them, them, c10sely closely packed, paper. and trinuntrimmwith their carcases and their carcases casserole. Cover Cover the thrushes with casserole. finely sliced sliced an onion and aa tinely first tossed tossed in in butter butter with with an onion and ings, first ings, (+ pint, pint, 1 cup) Madeira. Madeira. dl. (t dish 1l+ Pourr over over the the disb carrot. Pou t dL carrol. t cup) few with aa few Moisten with and simmer for 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Moisten simmer for Cover and Cover for 12-15 12-15 in the the oven oven for stock and and braise braise in tablespoons of of game stock tablespoons until tender. minutes until Brown wrapping. Brown Drain the the thrushes and remove the the paper wrapping. thrushes and Drain paper cases layer of of in buuered cases on on aa layer Serve them buttered paper the birds. birds. Serve them in the the in butter. Pour the and truffles truffies tossed tossed in butter. Pour sliced mushrooms mushrooms and sliced the birds. birds. stock, strained strained and and boiJed down, over over the boiled down, braising stock, braising EN cRtvEs EN en cocotte. cocotte. GRIVES or tbrush thrush en Casserole of of lbrush thrush or Casserole quail of quail as for for Casserole Proceed as Casserole of ou EN EN COCOTTE cocottE -- Proceed cAssERoLE, OU CASSEROLE, (seeQUAIL). (see Made cHAUD-FRoID -- Made thrush. GRIVES cRIvEs EN EN CHAUD-FROID Chaud-froid of of thmsh. CllaU(Hrold gras and as and truffles, truffies, as and stuffed stuffed withfDie withfoie gras from th thrushes boned and rushes boned from (see QUAIL). quail (sec for Chaud-froid of quai! for Chaud-froidof QUAIL).

(see pour melted (sec SAUCE). SAUCE), Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, pour butter butter over over them, them, and and brown brown in in aa very very hot hot oven. oven. Thrushes GRIVES AÀ r.l lA r$crolsn LIÉGEOISE - Put Put inside inside Tbrusbes ià la li6geoise. cRIvEs each bird of aa walnut, walnut, with wüh aa few few bird a piece piece of butter bUller the the size size of crushed crushed juniper juniper berries berries added. Brown Brown them them in in a a heat-proof beat-proof casserole casserole in in which which aa little Ettle butter butter has bas been becn melted. melted. Sprinkle SprinkJe the the birds with crushed juniper berries, berries, about 22 berries herries for for each. each. crushed juniper Cover, and hot oven aven for for 30-40 30-40 minutes minutes and cook cook in aa moderately moderatcly hot or until until tender. tender. Two Two minutes before taking tabng the the casserole casserole out out of the oven, cover caver each bird with with a piece of of bread fried fried in in Sprinkle with butter. butter. Sprinkle wîth aa few drops of gin. Cold thrush thrusb pflt6. eArf PÂTÉ FRoID FROID DE DE GRIvEs GRlvES - Proceed Proceed as as for for Coldwoodcock wO/7dclock pdtt pâté (see (sec WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). GRIvss - Bone Hot Hot thrush thrush pit6. pâté. pArficHAUD PÂTÉ CHAUD DE DE GRIVES Bane the the thrushes thrushes asfor and stuffthernwrthfoie gras and trufres. truffies. Proceed Proceed as for Hot HOI stuf!: them withfoie gras woodcock pilri (see (see WOODCOCK). WOODCOCK). rounrn DE GRrvEs A Thrush Thrusb pie. TOURTB DE GRIVES À La LA pEntcouRDINE PÉR1GOURDlNE - Bone Bane (see Stuffeach the thrushes. gratin game game stufing sruffing (see thrushes. Stuff eaeh with with aa little liule hà gratin containing aasmallpiece FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEA T) thesize the size of of awalnut, a walnut, containing small embedded in of truffie embedded of foie graswith a piece oftruffle in it. it. Partly Partly braise to cool. cool. stock. Allow the thrushes thrushes in Madeira-flavoured stock. Allow to Put the thrushes thrushes in aa thin pie-crust pie-crust lined with with aa little little more more the birds with with aa strips of of truffie. Cover the stuffing, covered with strips of layer of of àh gratin thin layer gratin game game stuffing Cover with with aa piece piece of DOUGH) and seal the edges. Short pastry paslry 1/(see (see DOUGH) little motifs of thin pastry. of the pie Decorate the top of pie with little 40 hot aven oven for 40 Bake in Brush egg. Bake in aa moderately moderately hot Brush with beaten egg. the oven, oven, out of of the After the pie to 45 minutes. ASter ta pie has has been been taken taken out (see SA SAUCE). pour sauce (see in aa few tablespoons pour in tablespoons of Salmis sauce UCE). from boned boned birds birds Made l'rom thrush. TERRINE TERRINE DE DE GRlVES GRTVES -- Made Potted thrush. Potted potted gras and of potted like other other types and truffies like stuffed with foie gras types of stuffed (See TERRINE.) TERRINE.) game. (See in aa chin thin bird in Wrap each each bird cRIvEs ROTIES nOnns - Wrap Roast thrushes. GRJVES Rosst 20 ta to 30 30 in aa hot hot oven oven for for 20 larding bacon. bacon. Roast them in strip of of larding stnp fried in in butter. butter. of bread fricd on aa canapé canapi ofbread Serve each each bird on minutes. Serve minutes. gravy and serve serve separately. Dilute the gravy


grey-green leaves and aa leaves and small, grey-green with small, THvM -- Plant with THYME. THYM Wild pungent smell, flavouring. Wild pleasant, pungent as aa flavouring. smell, much much used used as pleasant, garden thyme. of the garden thyme is aa variety of gland situated the inthe upperpart of the situated in THYMUS-- A Aductless THYMUS ductless gland the upper part of young vertebrates, which becomes becomes vertebrates, which in children children and and young thorax in tborax puberty. atrophied in puberty. atrophied is called the sweetbread(calf,lamb) animals it is called the sweetbread(calf,lamb) In butchered butchered animais ln in eaten ooly only in food. It It should should be be eaten constitutes a very delicate food. and constitutes and gout. For For culinary culinary sufferers from gout. or not al at aIl, all, by sufferers moderation, or preparation sec MEATS. or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS. see OFF OFFAL AL or preparation carved former times, times, carved In fonner PLINTH. GRADINS cRADINs -- ]n TIERED PLINTH. TlERED presentation of cold dishes, dishes, of cold were used used for for the the presentation stands were wooden stands wooden These stands stands were made confectionery. These especially set pieces of {'{'\,nll'rJ,{'\n,,.rv paste, almond paste, in tiers. They were decorated with pdte d ffice, almond icing sugar. sugar. or icing sugar motifs or sugar plinths are sandwich bread, bread, made from from sandwich such plinths are made Nowadays, such Nowadays, (see CHAUDpoultry chaud-frDids CHAUDfor poultry chaud-froids (see for example, example, for as, for as, FROrD). FROID). in his his were decorated decorated in tiered plinths were tells us us bow how tiered Car6me tells Carême you wisb wish to to decorate decorate aa 'Let us that you us suppose, suppose, for ....example, day: 'Let day: "'<""1" .... that 923 923

TIGER meatsof variouskinds. ofvarious kinds. Below Belowwill willbebefound meats found instructions instructions for for thevarious variousstages stagesof preparation of ofpreparation a mould the timbaleinina ofaatimbale mouldwith with goffered sides. sides.This Thisisisthe thetrue trueclassic goffered classicforro formofoftbe thetimbale, timbale,ofof whichaatypical typicalexample example isisthe which the timbale timbale de demacaroni macaroni orortimbale timbale milanaise. milanaise. aremany There are manyother otherkinds kindsof There oftimbale timbale which whichare notfilled arenot filled until after after the thecrust crusthas hasbeen beencooked. cooked.InInthis until thiscase case~he thecrust crustisis baked empty. empty.Among Among these theseare aretimbale baked timbale of ofsole soleàdlalaGrimaldi, Grimaldi, timbalede devolaille volailleàdlaIaroyale, royale,timbale timbale timbaleof oflamb's lamb'ssweetbreads sweetbreads ptrigourdine, timbale timbale of aa lala périgourdine, oftruffies truffies àh/'impériale, I'impbriale,and audinin thecase caseof ofsweet sweettimbales, timbales, timbale the timbale of ofapricots apricots àdlafrangipane, lafrangipane, timbale offruit offruit àdl'ancienne, I'ancienne, timbale timbale timbale of ofcherries cherriesàdlalaChantilly, Chantilly, etc. etc. Timbale cases casesare are made porcelain ininthe Timbale made ininfireproof fireproof porcelain thesame same shape and and colour colour of shape pie-crusts. But of the the real real pie-crusts. But the the true true gourmand isis not not satisfied gounnand satisfied with withaatimbale timbalewhose whose crust not crust isisnot when served edible; edible; when served with withaareal real timbale, heenjoys timbale, he enjoys not notonly only the the contents but but tbe thecontainer, container, too. contents too. Large timbale timbale case Large (mixedentrée). cose or or crust crust (mixed entree). CROÛTE cRoOrE DE DE cRANDETIMBALE TTMBALE -- Butter GRANDE Butter the the interior interior of large charlotte of aa large charlotte mould, and and decorate decorate the mould, the sides sides witb with little little shapes shapes of noodle of noodle paste. paste. Roll short pastry into Roll short pastry into aa round round 20 20 cm. cm. (8(8 inches) inches) inin diameter. Sprinkle diameter. Sprinkle lightly lightly with with flour flour and and fold fold inin half. half. Fold Fold again and and roll roll itit out again out to to make make an an even thickness of even thickness of about about ificm. cm. inch). Press (t$ inch). Press itit in in the the mould, mould, without without disturbing disturbing the the noodle noodle paste decorations. paste decorations. Insert Insert aa fine paper and fine buttered buttered paper and fi11 fill itit up up witb with dried dried raw raw beans beans as as for for aa flan flan case (see TART). case or or tart tart (see TART). Put Put aa domedomepiece ofpaperon shaped the dry shaped piece ofpaper on top top of ofthe dry filling, filling, and and aathin thin sheet sheet joining the of of pastry on on top top of of this, this, joining gently the edges edges together together by by gently pressing. Make Make the the rim rim of pie by of the pinching this the pie this border by pinching border with with pincers. Moisten pastry pincers. Moisten lightly lightly with with water part Conning water the the part forming the the lid, lid, and and decorate decorate with with leaves, leaves, roses, roses, etc., etc., cut cut from from aa thin thin pastry. sheet sheet of of pastry. Put Put on on top top of of the the lid lid 33 or or 44 circles pastry, with circles of of pastry, with the the middles middles cut cut out out to to make make circles. circles. Stick these circles circles together Stick these together and and make an an opening pastry to opening in in the pastry to allow allow for for the the escape escape of of steam during during the the cooking. cooking. Brush Brush the pie with the outside outside of of the the pie with egg egg and and bake bake in in the the oven oven at at aa moderate moderate heat heat for for 30 to 35 30 to 35 minutes. minutes. Remove Remove the lido lid. Take Take out the paper and and dried dried beans, beans, brush brush the inside minutes. inside with egg, and let it dry in the the oven oven for aa few fewminutes. Fill the timbale timbale as as desired. Timbale Timbale cases cooked in this way are are used as containers containers for used as for aa variety variety of mixed entrées. entrtes. They can can be be filled filled with with ragoûts, ragottts, with garnishes garnishes such with such as as Financière, Financibre, Godard, Godard, Joinville, Joinville, MilMilanaise, Toulouse anaise, Toulouse and and others (see others 'of of aa similar similar nature nature (see GARNISHES). They frequently filled They are are frequently filled with with macaroni macaroni arranged arranged in in alternate layers with with aa ragoût ragoitt bound bound with with brown brown or or white white sauce. See sauce. See below. SmaU timbales timbales Agnes Sorel (old recipe). recipe). PETITES pErrrEs TIMBALES Small TTMBALES a dozen dariole moulds. moulds. Sprinkle AGNÈS soREL SOREL - 'Butter a AGNis dozpn dariole Sprinkle in in truffies and and one-half scarlet tongue, both one-half truffies scarlet tongue, both finely finely chopped. chopped. 500 g. g. (1 (1 lb., lb., 4 4 cups) chicken chicken forcemeat forcemeat with 'Prepare 500 with Onion soubise soubise (see (see pUREE). PURÉE). cream. Add Add a few tablespoons Onion moulds with this forcemeat, taking taking care care to to leave leave aa Fill the moulds and to keep keep the the forcemeat forcemeat rather rather thick thick on hole in in the tbe middle middle and hole on the bottom bottom and round the sides. sides. Fill Fil\ the the hole hole in in the the middle middle the with a salpicon of chicken and truffies bound witb Espagnole with a salpicon of and truffies bound wirth Espagnole (see SAUCE) SAUCE) made made with witb Madeira. Madeira. sauce (see sauce ofthe the moulds moulds with witb aa layer layer of ofraw forcemeat. 'Close the the tops tops of 'Close raw forcemeat. Set the the moulds moulds in in aa saucepan saucepan and and pour pour in in hot hot water water to to half half Set way up up the the sides. sides. Poach Poach the the timbalesina timbales in a moderately moderately hot hot oven oven way 12 to to l5 15 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn out out of of the the moulds moulds and and set set them them on on for 12 for tbin layer layer of of poached poached forcemeat. forcemeat. Spoon Spoon over over a a little little aa thin

plinthmade Tiered plinth made Tiered fromsandwich sandwichbread bread from

plinth witb with laurelleaves. laurel leaves. You You first first cut cut out out aa laurel laurel wreath wreath in in plinth paper. Next you give Next you give the plinth aa light the base base of of the the plinth light coating coating of of paper. icing, and and stick stick the paper wreath the paper you cover wreath to it. Now to it. Now you cover tbe rest the rest icing, plinth with of tbe the plinth grade of with aa medium medium grade of coarse coarse sugar. sugar. When this When this of you rem paper, after is done, done, you remove the paper, you sprinkle after wbich which you sprinkle the the is ove the imprint of of the the leaves pistachio-green sugar. leaves with with pistachio-green you sugar. Now, Now, you imprint have aa laurel laurel crown crown surrounding surrounding the plinth. the base base of of the the plinth. have 'For aa large, large, three-tiered piece, each three-tiered set set piece, each tier tier can can be be 'For individually decorated. decorated. This graceful and This crea creates elegant and elegant individually tes aa graceful effect. effect. 'I have have also also sometimes sometimes embelli embellished my tiers tiers with with laurel laurel '1 shed my crowns made from biscuit pastry pastry shaped shaped like like laurelleaves laurel leaves and and crowns green, or coloured green, garlands of or with with garlands of spun spun sugar. sugar. This This last last coloured has both brilliance decoration has brilliance and eJegance. elegance. 'I have also created plinths out created tiered tiered plinths out of of almond almond paste, '1 have also moulded in basket moulds.' moulds.' But although he favoured the presentation of ofset on set pieces on plinths, Car6me maintained that 'young practitioners' practitioners' should should plinths, Carême 'that plinths not of Gennan German or or Italian Italian waffies, waffies, of of plinths of not forget forget 'that nougat, of glazed duchesse cakes, puff pastry, pastry, baked cakes, of of puff baked nougat, of glazed duchesse without scales, or in in round round or witbout filling or in in the shape of fish scales, oval rings, of Genoese cake, immensely cake, or of nut toffee, toffee, are immensely effective of the great pastryeffective and properly properly belong belong in the realm realm of making making establishments.' establishments.' TIGER. TIGER. rIGRE TIGRE - The flesh ftesb of of the tiger is sometimes sometimes eaten in some sorne countries.

TIMBALE TIMBALE - By By definition this tbis word (which comes cornes from the

Arab thabal thabal meaning meaning drum) means a small sm aH metal receptacle, receptacle, round round in in shape shape and and intended intended to hold a beverage. Timbales Timbales are chiefly chiefty made made of of silver, sometimes sometimes of of gold or silver silver plate, plate, some sorne simple, simple, others others ornamented. The The word word timbale, timbale, which which in in early early days was only only applied to individual individual drinking drinking cups, cups, has has taken taken on on a a much much wider wider meaning, and isis used used to to describe describe all ail kinds kinds of of bowls, bowls, of of metal, metal, meaning, and earthenware, earthenware, and and china. china. The same same word word is is still used in the phrase phrase dresser dresser en en timbale timbale to to describe describe the the serving serving of some sorne preparation preparation in in aa large large bowl, bowl, which which may may be be aa vegetable vegetable dish dish or Ihgwnier, légumier, although although used used for for many many other foodstuffs foodstuffs than vegetables. vegetables. Thus Thus in in these these timbalesJtgumiers timbales-légumiers are are served served scrambled custards and other other scrambled eggs, eggs, food food in in sauce, sauce, pur6es, purées, custards preparations, preparations, all ail to to some sorne extent extent semi-liquid. semi-liquid. Dresser Dresser en en timbale also means means to to heap heap the the food food on on aa platter platter in in aa pyramid pyramid timbale also shape, shape, usually usually garnished. garnished. Timbale Timbalegenerally generally means means aa preparation preparation of ofany any kind kind cooked cooked or or served served in in aa pie pie crust, crust, which, which, instead instead of of being being made made in in aa hinged hinged mould mould isismade madein in aa plain plain round round mould mould with with high high sides, sides, often often decorated decorated with with motifs. motifs. Timbales Timbales are are filled filled before before cookins cooking with with forcemeat forcemeat and and 924 924

TIMBALE TIMBALE Makine Makingaatimbale timbalecase case('l CAI'Alsacienne', l'Alsacienne',Maison MaisonMorandMorand. Phot. Phot. Larousse) Larousse)

Shape Shape the the dough dough into into aa ball bail

Roll out to a round

ShaDe to form an inverted dome Shape to form an inverted dome

pastry in in half half of pastry Fold the rolled out round round of

the base, with the edges overlapping rrght 10 to the pastry into into the the mou mould. the pastry Pressthe Press Id, righl base, with the edges overlapping

to agatn to roll out out again with Rour flour and and roll Sprinkle with Sprinkle (l inch) cm. (~inch) of about about iolcm. thickness of even thickness aneven an

lid of pastry and 'chimney witha adecorated decoratedlid Coverwith Coyer of pastry and 'chinmey'

mould themould rimof ofthe therim pastryedges edgestotothe Trimthe thepastry Trim

925 925

TIMBALE TIMBALE espagnole sauce cooked with the trimmings and liquor of the espagnole sauce cooked with the trimmings and Iiquor of the trufres. trufftes. 'Seryewith with the therest restof ofthe thesauce.' sauce.' 'Serve TimbaleBrillat-Savarin Brillat-savarin--Hollow Hollowout outaaBrioche Briochemousseline mousseline Timbale (see BRIOCHE) cooked in a charlotte mould, to make a pie cooked in a charlotte mould, to make a pie (see BRIOCHE) crust.Brush Brush with withapricot pur6efiavoured apricot purée flavoured with withkirsch, kirsch,and and crust. heat inin the the oyen. oven. Fill Fill itit with with altemate alternate layers layersof quartered ofquartered heat pears cooked in vanilla syrup and well drained, and French pears cooked in vanilla syrup and weil drained, and French pastry cream (seeCREA cream(see CREAMS) mixed with with finely finelycrushed crushed MS) mixed pastry macaroons. Finish off ofl by by covering covering the the top top with pears with pears macaroons. Finish mounted in in aadome. dome. Deco Decorate with candied candied fruits. fruits. Heat Heat again igain mounted rate with in aa low low oyen. oven. in Serve with with apricot apricot purée pur6e fiavoured flavoured with with kirsch. kirsch. Serve Timbale Elysée Elysee -- First prepare 88 pastry First prepare pastry cups from crisp, cupsfrom crisp, Timbale pastry made biscuit-type pastry made by (4 by thoroughly thoroughly blending blending100 100 g.g. (4 biscuit-type oz., 11cup) cup) flour, flour, 100 g. (4 (4 oz., 100 g. oz.,tcllry) (2oz.Jsugar, 1Iegg, g.(2 egg, 50 50 g. oz.,t tcup) sugar, oz., cup) rather rather soft soft butter. butter. Flavour Flavour with with vanilla. vanilla. cup) Spoon this pastry (1(l heaped this pastry heaped tablespoon tablespoon for pastry for each each pastry Spoon cup) onto onto aa buttered buttered and and fioured floured baking baking tray. tray. Bake Baki inin aa cup) moderately hot hot oven oven until until crisp crisp and and lightly lightly browned. browned. moderately pastry rounds While the the pastry rounds are are still still hot, hot, mould mould each each of of them them While over sorne some object object with with aa flattened flattened dome dome shape (e.g. bottom shape (e.g. bottom of of over an upturned upturned bowl bowl or or ladle) ladle) to produce aa cup to produce cup shape. shape. an Place aa sm small slice of of sponge sponge soaked soaked in in aa kirsch-flavoured kirsch-flavoured Place ail slice at the the bottom syrup at bottom of pastry cup. each pastry of each cup. Add Add aa spoonful spoonful of of syrup vanilla ice ice cream cream and and cover cover with with sliced sliced fresh fresh fruit; fruit; strawberstrawbervanilla ries, raspberries, raspberries, etc. etc. ries, Coat thls this with with aa spoonful spoonful of of kirsch-fiavoured kirsch-flavoured redcurrant redcurrant Coat jelly, then pipe aa ribbon then pipe ribbon of of Chantilly (see CREAMS) Chantitly cream cream (see CREAMS) jelly, round the the inside inside edge edge of of the the cup. cup. round Finally, cover cover each each of garnished cups of the the garnished cups with with aa cage cage of of Finally, spun sugar sugar made made by by cooking cooking sugar sugar to to aa hard hard crack crack using using 200 200 spun g. (7 (7 oz., oz., 1I cup) cup) sugar, sugar, 40 (lf oz., g. ot a0 g. oz., 1I heaped heaped tablespoon) tablespoon) g. glucose (for (for 88 spun spun sugar sugar cages) cages) then then threading this this sugar sugar in in glucose as delicate delicate aa lattice lattice as possible over as possible over the the bowl bowl of of aa suitablysuitablyas (Recipe from sized ladle. from the the restaurant Lasserre.) Lasserue.) sized ladle. (Recipe ps MACARONI Macaroni timbale timbale ài l'américaine. I'am6ricaine. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE u.{cARoNr À A Macaroni r'ArvdRrc.lrNn Prepare aa timbale timbale crust of of Fine Fine Iining lining paste L'AMÉRICAINE -- Prepare (see and bake it empty. bake it empty. Fill Fill with alternate alternate layers layirs of of DOUGH) and (see DOUGH) parmacaroni water, drained drained and and bound bound with with Parmacaroni cooked cooked in in water, mesan and aa salpicon salpicon of of Lobster Lobster àd mesan cheese cheese and and butter, butter, and I'l'américaine amtric aine (see (see LOBSTER). LOBSTER). Finish and Finish off off by by placing placing on on top top aa row row of sliced lobster, and coat SAUCE). Cover the timbale, timbale, coat with with Amiricaine Américaine sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). heat moments in the oven, oven, and serve. serve. heat for for aa few few moments Macaroni TTMBALES on A Macaroni timbales timbales ià la milanaise. milanaise. TIMBALES DE M,lclnoNr MACARONI À LA LA MrLANArse MILANAISE -- Place Place slices slices of of truffie truffle in well weil buttered dariole moulds, and fill fill with with thick thick macaroni, macaroni, cooked in salted water moulds, and and and drained drained well. weil. Arrange Arrange the the macaroni macaroni in in spirals in in the moulds. Add a a thin thin layer layer of of euenelle Quenelle forcemeat forcemeat (see (see moulds. Add FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) and and fill fill with with macaroni macaroni cut into small dice prepared prepared dà la la milanaise milanaise (see (see MACARONI). MACARONI). Add a garnish of scarlet scarlet tongue, tongue, cooked cooked ham, ham, trufles truffies and and mushrooms, all ail cut in in julienne. julienne. Cover Co ver the the timbales timbales with with a a layer layer of quenelle quenelle forcemeat. forcemeat. Put Put into into aa bain-marie bain-marie and and poach poach in in a moderately moderately hot hot oven oven for for 18 18 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn out out the the timbales timbales on to to a dish. i-glace sauce Pour in in aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofDez, Demi-glace sauce flavoured flavoured dish. Pour with tomato and and Madeira Madeira (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). with aa little little tomato Timbale Timbale of of sole sole ià I'am6ricaine, l'américaine, or Timbale Timbale Monselet. Monselet. TIMBALE TIMBALE DE DE sol,Es SOLES AÀ r',AMfnrcArNr L'AMÉRICAlNE -- Prepare Prepare aa timbale timbale crust crust of of Fine Fine lining Iiningpaste paste (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) and and bake bake itit empty. empty. Fill of sole sole (see (see SOLE) SOLE) cooked cooked in in white white Fill with with Paupiettes Paupiettes of wine, wine, cooked cooked macaroni macaroni bound bound with with butter butter and and parmesan, Parmesan, and and aa salpicon salpicon of oflobster lobster prepared prepared dà I'amtricaine. l'américaine. Coat Coat with with Am4ricaine SAUCE). Américainesauce sauce(see (see SAUCE). Timbale Timbale of of fillets fillets of of sole sole Grimaldi. Grimaldi. TTMBALE TIMBALE DE DE soLE SOLE cRJMALDT GRIMALDI-- see see SOLE, SOLE, Fillets Fillets of ofsole. sole. Small Smalltimbales timbalesof ofvegetables. vegetables. pETrrEs PETITES TTMBALEs TIMBALES ou DE rfcuurs LÉGUMES

garnishcold Togarnish coldmeats, meats,etc. etc.Coat Coatsmall smalldariole dariolemoulds mouldswith with - -To jellybased basedon onfish fishorormeat meatstock, stock,according accordingtotothe thefood foodthat thatisis jelly garnished.Decorate begarnished. Decoratethe themoulds piecesofoftruffle, mouldswith withpieces trufre, totobe hardboiled boiledegg eggwhites, whites,scarlet scarlettongue tongueand andtarragon leaves. tarragonleaves. hard Fillwith withvegetable vegetable salad saladbound boundwith withmayonnaise mayonnaisethickened thickened Fill jelly.Pour jellyover withjelly. Pouraalayer layerofofjelly overthe thesalad. salad.Chili Chillthe the with timbaleson iceor onice orininthe therefrigerator. refrigerator. timbales Timbalesof ofvegetables vegetablestotogarnish garnishcold (whichcan colddishes dishes(which can Timbales alsobe servedasashors-d' beserved hors-d'euvre small orsm entrie\can canbe filled also œuvre or ail entrée) befilled withaasingle singlevegetable, vegetable, asparagus asparagus tips, tips,French Frenchbeans, with beans,little little carrot balls, balls, diced dicedartichoke with artichoke bottoms, dressedwith bottoms, etc., etc.,dressed carrot vinaigre tteor ormayonnaise. mayonnaise. vinaigrette

Tinamou Tinamou

TINAMOU -- Partridge-like Partridge-like bird TINAMOU bird native native to to South South America. America. ItIt has been acclimatised in been acclimatised in France. has France. All the the recipes recipes given given for pheasant (q.v.) (q.v.) are Ali for pheasant are applicable applicable to to tinamou. tinamou. TIN. ÉTAlN frlclN -- A TIN. ver' paper A metal metal often often used used in in the the form form of 'silver' paper of 'sil foil to (confectionery, chocolate, or foil to wrap wrap foods or foods (confectionery, chocolate, cheese, cheese, etc.) Tinware saucisson, etc.) Tinware and and tin tin measures measures were were widely widely used used in in past; pewter, pewter, in the past; particular, isis very the in particular, very beautiful. beautiful. Both Both are are back in in fashion fashion again again but but much much more for their their aesthetic more for aesthetic value value than for their usefulness. usefulness. Wine Wine combines combines very verv weil with tin well with tin or or pewter, so does does English pewter, English beer. beer. TINNlNG. TINNING. ÉTAMAGE Erauecn -- The process of The process covering aa metal of covering metal with with aa layer of tin. The tinning or retinning retinning of of vessels or or utensils used used in in food food preparation must be done in aa bath containing preparation containing aa minimum minimum of of 97 per cent pure tin and aa maximum of 0·50 0.50 per cent cent lead lead and and -10 ml. arsenic. #ml.arsenic. TINPLATE. TIhIPLATE.

Tinplate is pressed iron is pressed iron covered covered - Tinplate

FER-BLANC FER-BLANc -

great many with tin. tin. A A great with many utensils utensils used in cooking used in cooking and and

confectionery used to to be confectionery be made made from it, pots and it, but but pots and pans made of of aluminium, nickel, fireproof made aluminium, nickel, porcelain, heatfireproof porcelain, heatglass, cast-iron, cast-iron, stainless stainless steel, resisting glass, steel, etc. are replacing etc. are them. them. butchery term describing aa broad, broad, fiat TIRETTE -- French butchery flat tendon. tendon.

TISANE -- This This word comes cornes from the Latin Latin ptisana, barley barley TISANE

water. tisane of Hippocrates Hippocrates was was barley barley water; water; today today the the The tisane na me tisane tisane is applied applied to drinks drinks for for invalids invalids prepared by by name soaking or or infusion. infusion. soaking Digestive tisanes. tisanes. TrsANEs TISANES DrcEsrrvrs DIGESTIVES - The habit of of drinkdrinkDigestive - The habit ing these these after after a a meal meal is is to to be be discouraged. Tisanes Tisanes are are ing and ought ought to to be be treated treated as as such. such. virtually medicines medicines and virtually However, some sorne of ofthem have well-proven weil-proven digestive digestive properproperHowev€r, thern have ties and and may may be be safely safely drunk drunk after after the the meal meal by by those those suffering suffering ties from digestive digestive troubles. troubles. from

926 926

TOMATO in aa special special 'toasted' sometimes served served in 'toasted' on on both both sides. sides. It It is is sometimes holder holder called called aa toast-rack.

Boldo. Boldo. A A bush bush that that grows grows in in Chile Chile and and has has not not been been successfully successfully grown grown in in Europe. Its Its leaves leaves are are therefore therefore only only to be be obtained obtained from herbalists herbalists and and chemists. chemists. They They resemble resemble those those of of the the periwinkle periwinkle and and contain contain two two active active constituents, and boldoglucine,which boldine and boldoglucine, which have a stimulating stimulating and and tonic g. (f effect the liver. It is used used in the the infusion infusion of 10 lOg. (1 oz., I1 effect on the

grille for for toasting toasting small grille Special small TOASTER. GRILLE-PAIN cRILLE-eAIN -- Special are usually electric. electric. of bread. slices of bread. They are on the the originating on TABAc -- Solanaceous Solanaceous plant, TOBACCO. TABAC plant, originating prepared in in various various are prepared leaves ofwhich of which are island of of Tobago, the leaves snuffor chewed. smoked, taken as as snuff ways and either either smoked, or chewed. Professional dulls the sense oftaste. of taste. Professional Smoking before before aa meal dulls is during aa meal meal is it. Smoking during to renounce renounce it. tasters are obliged to prevents one one smoke completely completely prevents simply barbaric; tobacco tobacco smoke simply people in in those those dishes and and annoys annoys other people from savouring the dishes its Tobacco has has its is allowed. allowed. Tobacco this habit habit is where this restaurants where agreeably aroma blends agreeably rightful place after a meal, when its aroma of coffee. with that of

tablespoon) leaves leaves per litre litre (lf; 01 pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) of tablespoon) water, dne 6ne cupful cupful to to be be drunk drunk after after each each main meal. meal. An elixir made from from it: steep steep 25 g. (l (1 oz.,l oz., i cup) leaves leaves in 11 be made can also be dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant I1 cup) cup) alcohol and I-t litre (scant pint, 2f 2i cups). cups). Madeira Madeira wine wine for 88 days; strain, then then add 300 300 g. (12 11 cups) cups) sugar; filter after 3 or 4 days. Take one liqueur oz., Ll glass glass daily. daily. (rerlre) -- Do not confuse confuse CENTAURÉE (PETITE) (Lesser). csNreuREE Centaury (Lesser). the lesser centaury of the gentian family with the common the stem of the centaury which is related to the blueberry. The stem lesser centaury is 20 to 40 cm. (8 to 16 inches) high divided at lesser of pink clusters of small clusters the top top into into branches branches which which bear bear small the woods, pastures pastures and on sandy ground. It is found in woods, flowers. It constituents that The whole whole plant plant is is used used and and contains contains constituents The aid digestion and stimulate the the salivary and gastric juices, aid stimulate g.0 (1 oz., if cup) allay stomach stomach pains. It is used in infusion: 25 g. (lti pints, pints, generous flowering tops per litre (1 stalk and dried dried flowering quart) before or after meals. quart) ofboiling Drink a cupful cupful before of boiling water. Drink plant grows grows in in the the (Yellow). GENTIANE This plant cENTIANE -- This Gentian (Yellow). which can mountains and is well weil anchored anchored in the soil by a root which mountains (approximately 3 feet) long and weigh weigh up to to 10 I m. (approximately be over 1 lb.). The yellow flowers flowers rise in tiers up the stem which kg. (22 Qzlb.). (3 feet) in the the is used can be up up to to 1I m. root is used in The root feet) high. high. The can be m. (3 preparation of bitter bitter alcohol-based preparation of aa beautiful alcohol-based apéritifs apiritifs of (gentiamarine golden golden hue. The bitter of this root (gentiamarine bitter constituents oftrns stimulate and gentisine) increase the salivary secretions and and stimulate and gentisine) juices making this plant the most precious precious of the digestive of ail all digestive juices (4 oz., g. (4 tonics. cup) finely finely 100 g. oz., 1I cup) It isis used used in in aa tisane: tisane: 100 tonics. It (lf pints, quart) of chopped root per litre pints, generous quart) of water; litre Oi boil for2 cupful infuse. Take Take one one cupful then allow allow to infuse. for 2 to 33 minutes then (about 1I g. (about before macerated: 33 g. It is is also also macerated: before and after each meal. It teaspoon) leave to to cupful of boiling boiling water; leave teaspoon) chopped root per cupful steep meal. after each each meal. and after steep for for 4 hours; hours; take take 1I cupful cupful before before and Finally, there g. (4 gentian wine: cup) 25 g. oz., 1I cup) there is is aa gentian wine: steep steep 25 G oz., chopped (l| pints, generous quart) white wine wine generous quart) root in in 1I litre oi chopped root for glassful after each meal. meal. after each week. Take Take half half aa wine wine glassful for 1I week. (3 Alternatively, in 1-* dl. dl. (3 gentian root steeped in root may may be be steeped Alternativeiy, the the gentian (If, pints, tablespoons, pints, litre (Ii and 1I litre scant t* cup) cup) alcohol alcohol and tablespoons, scant generous generous quart) quart) red wine. Metissa. plant from stem with aa stem South with A plant from the the South Melissa. MÉLISSE IrfI.Isss -- A about (2 feet) The serrated leaves. leaves. The oval serrated feet) high high and and oval 60 cm. crn. (2 about 60 pleasantly can have have pleasantly lemon-scented white but but can flower isis usually usually white lemon-scented flower aa reddish l0 g. (1(* oz., oz., 22 is used in infusion: infusion: lOg. reddish hue. hue. Melissa Melissa is used in tablespoons) quart) water. (If; pints, generous quart) per litre pints, generous water. litre 01 tablespoons) Ieaves leaves per Take melissa wine: wine: There isis also also aa melissa main meals. meals. There cupful before main Take 11 cupful steep 1 cup) (lf pints, generous (2 oz., pints, generous g. (2 in 1I litre litre oi .np) leaves leaves in steep 50 50 g. o2.,1 quart) at quart) white wine 48 hours. Take 1I or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons at for 48 hours. Take wine for each water which which isis is aa recipe for Metissa here is recipe for Melissa water Finally here each meal. Finally weil properties. for its its stimulative and anti-spasmodic anti-spasmodic properties. well known known for stimulative and 50 g. Ingredients. (li teaspoons) (2 oz., g. (2 teaspoons) melissa, 55 g.g. oi oz., 1j cup) cup) melissa, Ingredients.50 cinnamon, oz., g. (2 zest, lOg. l0 g. (t fresh lemon lemon zest, 15 g. tablespoons) fresh cinnamon, 15 Q tablespoons) $ oz., teaspoons) coriander, (1 11 tablespoon) l0 g.(1 coriander, lOg. l5 g.g. (1(ljteaspoons) tablespoon) angelica, angelica, 15 oz.,2 (l| teaspoons) nutmeg. l5 g.g. (11 teaspoons) nutmeg. teaspoons) cloyes, cloves, 15 oz., 2 teaspoons) pi nt s, generous Method. (llpints, generous litre (li for 15 l5 days days in in 1I litre Method. Macerate Macerate for juice out quart) the quart) white the juice out of of the white eau-de-vie. Filter, squeezing squeezing the eau-de-vie. Filter, residue you do in sweetened sweetened Bottle. Take Take li 1| teaspoons teaspoons in as you do so. so. Bottle. residue as water for as as long disturbances last. last. water for long as as disturbances

pressing. first pressing. Champagne made from the first TOCANE -- New Champagne TOCANE

palm tree, tree, Species of of palm ARBRE À A LIQUEUR uqueun -- Species TODDY PPALM. TODDY ALM. ARBRE great numbers grows in numbers in in the the It grows in great known as as milk milk tree. tree. It also known also palm, which produces produces is none other sago palm, other than sago Moluccas and is year, fermented part of into aa very very strong strong fermented into the year, of the during aa part sap during inthe local local inmuch appreciated appreciated by by the beverage much alcoholic beverage alcoholic habitants. Hunin Tokaj, Tokaj, Hunharvested in wine originally originally harvested TOKAY TOKA y -- White wine variety of of wine wine used for for aa variety gary. The The name name Tokai Tokai isis also also used gary. chieflv in in Alsace. cultivated chiefly

Fresh tomatoes inaa box box despatched in tomatoes despatched Fresh

American plant of South American of South TOMATO. Herbaceous plant ToMATE -- Herbaceous TOMATO. TOMATE yellow, red or or yellow, with red varieties, with are man many y varieties, origin, which there there are of which origin, of called were called fruits were days these these fruits round fruit. In In olden olden days oval fruit. round or or oval apples'. pommes 'love apples'. pommes d'amour d'amour --'love an E; itit isis an and E; B, CC and Vitamins A, A, B, The rich in in Vitamins The tomato tomato isis rich of salts salts The abundance abundance of aperient, and aadetoxicant. detoxicant. The diuretic and aperient, aa diuretic give itit its taste. (citrates, tartrates, its acid acid taste. oxalates) give itit con tains (citrates, tartrates, oxalates) contains too noteat eat too should not etc.,should Sufferers arthritis, etc., skin troubles, troubles, arthritis, from skin Sufferers from many tomatoes. many tomatoes. (among the theearliest) earliest) The are: (among principal French varieties are: French varieties The principal varieties' of varieties, number of Marmande, are aa number there are which there of which Marmande, of Saintincluding Saintvarieties including Pierrette, seasonal varieties hhtive: seasonal Ronde hâtive; Pierrette, Ronde Marglobe. Pierre, rouge, Joffre, Joffre, Marglobe. Pierre, Casaque Casaque rouge, thesouth-east south-east French production isisconcentrated mostly ininthe concentrated mostly French production itsheight height between between at its and season isisat The season valley. The in the the Garonne Garonne valley. and in whole thewhole stocked the June areweil well stocked marketsare themarkets October, but but the and October, Juneand Canaries, theCanaries, Africa, the year North Africa, from North year round tomatoesfrom round with with tomatoes and Franceand Spain; available both bothininFrance are available tomatoesare hothouse tomatoes Spain; hothouse Holland. Holland. peeled, Tomatoes peeled, Tomato DETOMATES ToMATES - - Tomatoes fondue. FONDUE FoNDUE DE Tomato fondue.

t

TISANE DE CHAMPAGNEName for that for aa Champagne Champagne that TISAI{EDE CHAMPAGNE-Name isis rather rather lighter lighter than than sorne. some. TOAST rectangular square or or rectangular thick or or thin, thin, square TOAST -- Slice Slice of of bread, bread, thick in grill or put under and electric toaster toaster and under the the grill or inin an an electric in shape, shape, put 927 927

TOMATO TOMATO pressed, chopped chopped and and cooked cooked IiI! till soft soft in in butter, butter, seasoned seasoned in in pressed, various ways, ways, usually usually with with chopped chopped garlic included. included. Tomalo Tomato various fondue isis used used as as aa garnish with with various dishes, dishes, eggs, fish, fish, fondue poultry, etc. meat, poultry, etc. and to to fi.!l fiLl bouchées, bouchies, tartlets tartlets and crouscrousmeat,

powdered gelatine, tablespoons) powdered gelatine, softened in cold softened in cold water, water, have have tahlespoons) been added. added. been Strain Ihe the mixture mixture through through aa sieve. Put inlo into aa bowl, sieve. Put bowl, whisk whisk Strain until smooth, smooth, cool, cool, and and add add half half its its volume volume of of whipped until cream. Season, Season, and and add add aa UtIle little cayenne cayenne and and aa few few drops cream. lemon juice. Mix Mix weIl. well. lemonjuice. glass dish Pour il1to into aa glass dish or, or, when when the tomato mousse the tomalo mousse is is to to he Pour be used as as an an accompaniment accompaniment to to cold cold dishes, dishes, into into small small dariole dariole used moulds lined lined with with aa layer layer of ofjelly. moulds jelly. Chill on on Îee ice or or in in the the refrigerator. refrigerator. Chill Cold tomato tomato mousselines. mousselines. MOUSSELINES MoussELrNEs FROIDES FRorDEs DE DE TOMATES ToMArEs Cold with the the same same mixture mixture as as the the above. above, but but served served in in - Prepared with cassolettes of of melal, glass or metal, china, china, glass goffered paper, paper, or or goffered or moulded in in sma]] small mou moulds lined withjelly. with jelly. moulded Ids lined These mousselines mousselines are are served served as as cold cold hors-d'œt/lire, hors-deuvre, or or used used These part orthe garnish for as part ofthe garnish for aa cold cold dish. dish. as pul.pr Fresh tomalo tonato pulp. PU DE TOMATES ToMATts FRAîcHES rn,c,icuEs -- This This pulp Fresh LPE DE should not be confused with tomato tomato sauce sauce or or tomato tomato pur6e. It is an an "'lO,'''''-''''''' ingredient of of aa number number of of made·up made-up dîshes, dishes, and, cold. cold, is is is used 10 to dress sorne some salads. jam salads. It It isis also also used to make make tomato jam used (see JAM). (seeJAM). Wash 2|kg. sound lomatoes, tomatoes, cut in slîces, cut in slices, and kg. (5+lb.) lb.) ripe, sound rub them them through through aa sieve. sieve. Put the pulp into the pulp (or into aa saucepan saucepan (or ruh preserving pan if the pulp into aa preserving jam) and pulp is to be used for jam) into il and ho boil for a few moments. moments. for Strain through through aa cloth get rid cloth to to get rid of the the water cOlmp,let,ely completely. Strain thick pulp which remains in the cloth is used ....according The thick ""',v,·uUJ,I', to the instructions in the recipe. punfs DE TOMATES pur6e. PURÉE Tomato plll'ée. ToMATEs -- See See SAUCE, SAUCE, Tomato Tomllto sauce. sauce. Tomato salad. SALADE slr,c,oE DE DE TOMATES ToMATES -- Scald the the tomaloes, tomatoes, Tomato peel and remove the pips. Cut in slices, slices, not peel them them and not too tao thick. Lay on aa folded cloth, season season with with salt salt and and leave leave for Layon folded c1oth. for 30 yield their minutes minutes to to yield their liquid. Arrange in an hors-d'œuvre hors-teuvre or salad dish. dish. Season Season with oil, Arrange in vinegar, vinegar, pepper and chopped parsley. parsley. This salad can also be he made with with the tomatoes tomatoes cut in quarters. Tomato salad (which Tomalo salad (which is is normally normally served served as as an an horsdeuvre) may be be sprinkled with various aromatic aromatic herbs, such d'œuvre) as as tarragon, tarragon, fresh fennel, fresh basil, basil. etc. When euvre dishes, When served served inhors-d in hors-d'œuvre dishes. the tomatoes !omatoes may may also be be covered covered with with thin thin slices slices of of new new onions. Tomato Tomato sauce. sauce. sAUcE SAUCE ToMATE TOMATESAUCE. - See SAUCE. Tomatoes TOIDatoes saut6 sauté aux aux fnes fiues herbes. ToMATEs TOMATES s.lurfns SAUTÉES lux AUX FINES FIN1'.S HERBES HERBES - Cut CUI the the tomatoes in in half. half. Press Press the halves halves to extract extract the the seeds, seeds, and season season with salt and pepper. pepper. Fry Fry lightly lightly in in butter. butter. Set Set on on a a dish dish and and sprinkle with with parsley parsley and and the cooking butter, butter, very very hot, hot, in in which aa small sma)] quantity quantity of of freshly freshJy made made breadcrumbs have have been been fried. frîed. Tomatoes Tomatoes saut6 sauté ià la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. ToMATEs TOMATES slurfrs SAUTffis. A À u LA LvoNNAISELYONNAISE - Fry Fry halved halved tomatoes tomatoes as as above. above. Set Set on on aa dish dish on on a layer of of chopped chopped onions onions cooked cooked in in butter. butter. Sprinkle SpriokJe with with chopped parsley. pars1ey. Pour Pour over over the the cooking butter, butter, to to which whîcb 33 tablespoons b]eSp()O!iS (4 (4 tablespoons) chopped onion, onion, previously previously cooked cooked in În butter, butter, have have been been added. Tomatoes Tomatoes saut6 sauté ià la la provengale. provençale. ToMATES TOMATES slurErs SAUTEES A À u LA pRovENgALn PROVENÇALE -- Prepared Prepared in În oil oil llke like Tomatoes Toma/oes safie sawé aux auxfines fines herbes, herbes, adding aa little !iule chopped garlic. garlic. Tomato Tomato soufr6. sourEr-f DE DE ToMArEs TOMATES -- Prepare Prepare 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, pint, 2j cups) cups) very very thick thick tomato pur6e (see (see SAUCE, SAUCE, Tomato Tomalo sauce). sauce). Add Add to ta this this f cup thick btchamel sauce and6 and egg yolks. Season Season with with salt, salt, pepper and and grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Add 6 stiffiy beaten beaten egg whites. whites. Mix quickly. Turn Turn into aa buttered buttered soufrG soufflé dish, filling fil ling only only to ta within wit hin I1cm. cm. (jÜ inch) inch) of of the Ihe top. top. Smooth Smooth over over the the surface surface of of the the souffiE. soufflé. Cook Cook in in the the oven oven like like an an ordinary ordinary soufl6. soufflé. Souffi6 Soufflé tonatoes. tomatoes. ToMATEs TOMATES sourr.rfps SOUFFLËES -- Empty some firm, regular-shaped regular-shaped tomatoes tomaloes into into aa baking baking dish dîsh without break-

tades. tades. Tomato fondue greoque. FONDUE fondue lii la la grecque. FoNDUE DE DE TOMATES ToMATES ÀA LA LA Tomato cREceuE - Put Put tnlO into aa saucepan g. (llablespoon) (l tablespoon) chopped saucepan 12 12 g. chopped GRECQUEand cook onions and cook lill (3 tablespoons) ail. till soft soft in in 22 lablespoons tablespoons (3 oil. onions peeled and Add 66 peeled and roughly roughly chopped chopped lomatoes, tomatoes, and 22 sweet sweet Add pimentos, peeled peeled and and cut cut in in very very small small dÎce. dice. Season Season \Vith with salt salt pimentos, paprika and and paprika and aa little garlic. Cook little chopped chopped garlic. gently untîl Cook gently until the the and liquid from from the the tomatoes tomatoes Îsis weil well concentrated. concentrated. liquid ps TOMAT~ Tomato fondue fondue ài la la niçoise. nigoise. FONDUE FoNDUE DE roMATEs ÀA LA re Tomato NlgoIsE -- Prepare Prepare the the fondue fondue as as above. above. Season Season with with extra extra NIÇOISE garlic and and add add aa teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped tarragon. tarragon. garlic fondue ài la portugaise. FONDUE Tomato fondue la portugaise. FoNDUE DE on TOMATF.S rolaA,rrs ÀA LA rA, Tomato IoRTUGAISE -- Like Like TomalO Tomatofondue without the la niçoise nigoise but but without the PORTUGAISE fondue àh la tarragon. larragon. Tomato fondue fondue lii la la turque. tuque. FONDU~ FoNDUE DE or TOMATES rorvftrrs ÀA LA Ll Tomato TuReuE -- Like Like TomalO Tomato fondue grecque but Ia grecque but wilhout without the the fondue àd la TURQUE pimento. pimento. tomato€s. TOMATES Fried tomatoes. ToMATEs FRITES Heat and FRrrEs -- Heat and peel tomatoes Fried of medium size. size. Cut Cut them them in in slices slices 1 I cm. cm. $ inch) thick. Season Season ofmedium pepper, dip and pepper, with salt salt and in aa light dip in light balter batter and and drop drop them into into with smoking hot hot fat fat or or oil. oil. smoking Drain the the tomatoes tomatoes and and garnish with parsley. Serve with fried fried parsley. Serve Drain immediately, as as Ihey they will will quickly hecome become lîmp. limp. immediately, Concentrated tomato tomato glaze. suc suc DE DE TOMATES ToMArEs CONCENTRÉ, coNcnrvrnt, Concentrated cLAcE DE DE TOMATES roMArEs -- Rub through through aa fine (2* lb.) fine sieve sieve 1I kg. kg. (2;t lb.) GLACE juice. Cook tomatoes without without removing removing seeds seeds or or juice. over strong strong Cook over 1Omatoes heat. the pulp boiled down down by half, strain strain through through aa heaL When When the pulp is is boiled by half, very strainer. very fine fine strainer. Cook once once more. more. Slrain Strain again again when it is is weil when il well concentrated. concentrated. Cook Cook the until itit is is of of aa syrupy consistency. consistency. Cook the pulp pulp again until glaze, when it This glaze, has been This it has been reduced to to the the desired desired point, can be for aa long time. It should be small glass or or can he kept kept for long time. Il should be put put in in small china sauces china pots. pots. It It is IS used I.lsed to to heighten heighten the the flavour flavour ofcertain of cerlain sauces and as stuffings, salpicons, salpicons,salads, etc. and preparations such such as salads, etc. Gntin of cRATTN DE DE ToMATEs of tomato lomalo and and aubergine. GRATIN TOMA TES ET ET D'AUBERcrNrs D'AUBERGINES - Arrange Arrange in in layers layers in in an an oiled oiled or or buttered hUltered gratin gratin dish dish tomatoes tomatoes and and aubergines aubergjues previously previously fried fried in in butter butter or or oil. oil. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with breadcrumbs, hreadcrumbs, then then with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Brown Brown in iu aa moderate moderate oven. oven. Grilled Grilled tomatoes. tomatoes. ToMATEs TOMATES cnnrfs GRILLÉS -- Cut Cut aa circle ci rcl e offthe off the top top of of the the tomatoes tomatoes on on the the stalk slalk side side and and through through this thts opening opening carefully carefully remove remove the the seeds. s.eeds. Season Season and and brush brush with with oil oil or or melted melted butter. butter. Grill Grill at at aa low low heat. heat. The The tomatoes tomatoes may be be halved halved before hefore being being grilled. grilled. Tomato T omalo jam-SeeJAM. jam - See Tomato Tomato ketchup ketchup or or catsup catsup - English English condiment, condiment, very very highly highly spiced, spiced, found found ready-made ready-made in in grocers' grocers' and and other other foodshops. foodshops. It It is used in English is used in English cookery cookery to to season season certain certain sauces sauces and and it it accompanies accompanîes cold cold meats. meats. For For recipe recipe see see KETCHUP. KETCHUP. pxN DE roMATEs Tomato Tomato loaf. loaf. PAIN DE TOMATES -- Boil Boil down down some sorne Tomato TomalO 'SAUCE), sauce (see SAUCE), and and when when it it is is well weil thickened thickened add add 66 sauce (see beaten eggs for g. (18 every beaten eggs for every 500 500 (18 oz., OZ., I1 cup) cup) of of the the sauce. sauce. Season Season with with salt, salt. pepper and aa pinch pinch of spice. Fill Fill aa well-buttered mould mould with with the the mixture. Poach Poach in in aa bain-marie bain-marie in in aa cool cool oven. oven. Leave Leave for for aa few [ew moments moments before before turning turning out OU! of of the the mould. mouJd. Coat Coat with with Tomato TomaJO sauce sauce uirth with added added butter butter (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Tomato Tomato loaf loafisis chiefly used used as as an an accompaniment accompanîment to to meat meat and and served served in in small small dariole moulds. moulds. Cold Cold tomato tomato mousse. mousse. MoussE MOUSSE FRoTDE fROIDE DE DE ToMATES TOMATES -- Peel, Peel, press press out out seeds seeds and and juice juice and and chop chop 500 500 g. g. (18 (1 g oz., oz., I1 cup) cup) tomato lomato flesh. flesh. When When the thepulp pulp has has well weil dried dried out, out, add add I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons. *cup) ! cup) Veloutt Veloulé sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA U CE) to to which which 1$tablespoons 1t tablespoons (2 (2

21

21

928 928

(st

TOMATO TOMATO

i

rn ToMATEs r,*cms A LA Stufrd Stuffed tomatoes tomatoes à la bonne bonne femme. TOMATES FARCIES À BoNNE BONNE FEMME FEMME - Halve large large tomatoes, remove rem ove the seeds and oil. Stuff Stuff season season with salt and pepper. pepper. Fry them in very hot oil. cooked until chopped onion cooked with sausage sausage meat meat to which chopped until soft

ing. Sprinkle Sprinkle them them with oil or melted melted butter butter and cook cook in the ing. oven for for 55 minutes. minutes. Allow Allow to to cool, and and fill them them with tomato tomato oven soufflé mixture mixture made made according to the recipe for for Tomato Tomato souffi6

-

soufit. so~ffié. surface, sprinkle sprinkle Fill the tomatoes to the top, smooth the surface, Parmesan cheese and cook in a slow oven for with grated Parmesan

parsley and.chopped in breadcrwnbs and chopped parsley in butter, freshly made breadcrumbs

and garlic, garlic, have have been added. added. Cover with breadcrumbs and sprinkle with oil. Cook in a moderately hot oven. sprinkle FARcIES À A LA LA ToMATEs FARCIES i la languedocienne. TOMATES Strffed tomatoes à Stuffed with seasoned with of tomatoes, seasoned Saut6 halves of LANGUEDocIENNE LANGUEDOCIENNE -- Sauté of with aa mixture of hot oil. oil. Stuff them them with salt and pepper, pepper, in in hot salt and yolks, chopped chopped egg yolks, chopped hard hard boiled boiled egg sausage meat, sausage meat, chopped garlic. parsley and garlic. cooked in oil, and chopped chopped parsley oniono onion, lightly cooked with breadCover with dish. Cover buttered ovenproof dish. Place Place in in aa buttered crumbs and sprinkle with oil. Cook in a moderately hot oven golden brown. until the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are golden m NIÇOISE mgosr ToMATES FARCIES FARcIES À A LA niCoise. TOMATES Strffed tomatoes ài la niçoise. Stuffed preceding recipe prepared as in the preceding Stuffhalves oftomatoes of tomatoes prepared -- Stuffhalves aubergine in aa mèat mOat stock, stock, aubergine rice cooked in with aa mixture of of rice with chopped parsley in oil oil and and chopped, breadcrumbs, chopped cooked in mixed. well seasoned and mixed. whole weil chopped garlic, the whole and chopped cover them tomatoes in a buttered ovenproof ovenproof dish, cover Put the tomatoes in aa modCook in with oil. oil. Cook sprinkle with and sprinkle with breadcrumbs and with breadcrumbs are golden brown. erately hot oven until the breadcrumbs LA FARcIEI À A LA roMATEs FARCIES la parisienne. TOMATES tomatoes ài la Stufred tomatoes Stuffed the Take out the lightly in oil. Take whole tomatoes tomatoes lightly PARTSIENNE - Cook whole PARISIENNEforcemeat mixed mixedwithasalpicon seeds and fill them with a fine forcemeat with a salpicon (see in butter butter (see cooked in and mushrooms mushrooms cooked of trufHes trufles and of Cover dish. Cover ovenproof dish. FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Put into aa buttered ovenproof in aa Cook in and sprinkle sprinkle with melted butter. Cook breadcrumbs and with breadcrumbs

10 minutes. minutes. about 10 Grated Parmesan Parmesan may be added to the mixture. mixture. Grated Stuffed tomato€s. tomatoes. ToMATES TOMATES FARcIEs FARCIES -- Choose Choose medium-sized medium-sized Strfed Cut a circle round round the stalk and open them. Press tomatoes. Cut juice and seeds and season sblt and to remove remove the thejuice season with salt lightly to lightly pepper. pepper. Set in rows rows on an oiled baking baking tin. Pour a few drops of oil each tomato tomato and put put into a very very hot oven for 55 minutes. minutes. into each tomatoes and stuffthem stuff them with with thickened duxelles Drain the tomatoes seasoned with a little garlic, and with the addition of diced seasoned stuffing in a ham and freshly freshly made breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Pile the stuffing lean ham an oiled baking baking tin, put breaddome. Set the tomatoes on an sprinkle with with oil, and cook in the oven for 12 crumbs on top, sprinkle 15 minutes. to l5 Cold stufred stuffed tomatoes. tomatoes. TOMATES FROIDES -- Served as as horsToMATES FRoIDEs garnish with various cold dishes. d'œuvre or used as garnish dishes. deuvre firm tomatoes without breaking the skin. skin. Season Season Empty firm pepper. Sprinkle with with salt salt and pepper. with oil and a few drops of vinwith egar or lemon lemon juice. Leave upside upside down to drain for 1I hour. Mix the scooped-out insides with a little garlic, diced ham Mix and a a few few white white breadcrumbs. Use Use to to fil fill1 the the tomatoes. and Garnish with tarragon or Garnish with truffies, or hard boiled truffies, hard boiled egg whites, tarragon chervilleaves. chervil leaves.

(Robert Carrier) Stuffed Carrierl tomatoes (Rober/ Stuffed tomatoes

929 929

TOMBER moderately moderately hot hot oven oven until until the the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs are are golden

TOULOUSAINE TOULOUSAINE (A (À LA) LA) -- Name Name given given to to various various different different preparations. preparations. It It is is mostly mostly used used for for a ragottt ragoûl bound hound with with aa white white sauce, sauce, an an accompaniment accompaniment to to poached poached or or roast roast poultry; poultry; or or as as a filling Iilling for croustades, croustades. tarts tarts and vol-au-yent. vol-au-venl.

brown. brown. Stuffed Stutfed tomatoes tomatoes ili la la pi6montaise piémontaise or or ià I'italienne. l'italienne. ToMATEs TOMATES FARCIES FARCIES A À I-.,c, LA pIEIvroNrA,rsE, PIÉMONTAISE, AÀ L'rrALrnNNe L'ITAUENNESliœ offthe off the tops tops of of - Slice medium-sized medium-sized tomatoes tomatoes and and press press them them to to remove remove the the juice juice and and seeds, seeds, taking ta king care not not to to break break the the skin. Season Season the the inside. inside. Stuffthem, Stufft hem, before before cooking, cooking, w:r"h with Risotto Risol/o (see (sec RICE) RICE) to to which concentrated tomato tomato pur6e purée has has been been added. added. Put Put the the which concentrated tomatoes tomatoes on on a a buttered buttered baking baking tin, tin, sprinkle sprinkJe with with melted melted butter butter and and cook cook gently gently in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven oven for for about about 15 15 minutes. dish, surround sauce (not minutes. Set Set them them on on aadish, surround withTomato with TomaLOsauce (not too too thick thick -- see see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. Stuffed Stutfed tomatoes tomatoes iil la la reine. reillc. ToMArEs TOMATES FARcrEs FARCIES AU AU sAt.prcoN SALPICON DE DE voLArLLE, VOLAILLE, Drrns DITES A À L,c, LA neNr RElNE -- Fill Fill medium-sized medium-sized seeded seeded tomatoes, tomatoes, lightly lightly cooked cooked in in butter, hutter, with with aa salpicon salpicon of of poultry poultry mixed mixed with with diced diced truffies truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms bound bound with with thick thick Veloutt Veloulé sauce sauce (see (sec SAUCE). SAUCE). Put Put the the tomatoes tomatoes on on aa buttered buttered baking baking tin. tin. Cover Cover them them with with breadcrumbs, hreadcrumbs, sprinkle sprinkJe with with melted melted butter butter and and cook cook in in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven oven until until the the breadcrumbs breadcrumhs are are golden golden brown. hrown. Tomatoes Tomatoes dil la la vinaigrette. vinaigrette. ToMATns TOMATES .A À ra LA vTNATGRETTE V1NAlGRETTE -Plunge Plunge tomatoes tomatoes into into boiling hoiling water, water, cool cool in in cold cold water, water, and and dry dry them. them. Peel Peel them them completely completely and and remove remove the the seeds seeds and and juice juice without witbout breaking breaking them. them. Cut Cut into into thin thin slices slices or or quarters. quarters. Lay Lay these these on on aa napkin napkin folded folded in in four. four. Season Season with with salt salt and and leave leave them them for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve the the tomatoes tomatoes in in an an hors-d'euvre hors-d'œuvre dish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of of Vinaigrette Vinaigrelle (see (see SAUCE). SA UCE). Sprinkle Sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley parsley and, and, if if liked, liked, chervil cbervil and and tarragon. tarragon. Serve Serve very very cold. cold.

TOUR TOUR D'ARGENT D'ARGENT -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAU RANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

TOUR DE DE FEUILLETAGE FEL1LLET AGE -- French French term tenn for for treatment treatment (turns) (tums) given given to to pastry pastry to to make make itit flaky flaky (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH).

MAINE

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Molelote of eel Ptke ou beurre blonc Chicken robelosten Hare
TOMBER-This TOMBER - This old old French French cookery cookery term term (literally'to (literally 'to fall'), fall'), describes describes aa way way of of cooking cooking meat meat in in aa saucepan saucepan without without any any other other liquid liquid than than that that produced produced by by the the meat meat itself. itself. The The moisture moisture must, must, after after cooking cooking isis complete, complete, be be tombb lombé (that (that isis to to say must fall fall or or go go down), down). to to aa syrupy syrupy consistency. consistency. say must Tomber Tomber ià glace glace -- Phrase Phrase used used when when some some substance, substance, such such as as onion onion or or shallot, shallot, isis moistened moistened during during cooking cooking with with liquid liquid which then completely completely boiled hoiled down. down. which isis then

BERRY

POITOU Touraine Gastronomic Gaslronomic map map of orTouraine

TOLJRAINE TOURAINE -- The The Touraine, Touraine, cradle cradle of of Gargantua, Gargantua, is is the the

TONGS. TONGS. pINcE PINCE -- Name Name of of various various instruments instruments of of different different

home home of offamous famous cooks. cooks. Its lts meadows meadows and and fields, fields, woods woods and and its ils waters waters provide pro vide food food of of the the highest highest quality: quality: shad shad from from the the Loire, Loire, pike pike from from the the Cher,carp Cher, carp from from the the Indre,chicken, Indre, chicken, butter,veal, butter, veal, and and pork. pork. Its lts vegetables vegetables include include delicious delicious mushrooms, mushrooms, and and the the fruit fruit isis plentiful. plentiful. Chasselas Chasselas grapes grapes from from the the slopes slopes above above the the Loire, Loire, William William pears, pears, plums plums from from Sainte-Catherine Saime-Calherine and and RochecorRochecorbon,eatingapples zay-le-Rideau; and bon, eating apples from,4 l'rom Azay-le-Rideau; and aa whole whole range range of of delicious delicious wines. wines. Culinary Culioary specialities specialities-- Touraine Touraine cookery cookery isis French French cookery cookery par xce llence-wholesome, It pareexcellencewholesome,simple simpleand andadmirably prepared.1t admirably prepared. contains specialities, but containsfew fewregional regionalspecialities, hutold-fashioned old-fashioneddishes disheslike like sang sang de depoulet pou/el aux aux oignons oignons (chicken (cbicken blood blood with with onions), onions), rbtie rôlie au au vin vin rouge rouge (roast (roast meat meat with with red red wine) wine) are are still still prepared prepared in in Touraine; Touraine; and and there there arefricassies are fricassées ofchicken of chicken andfritures and fritures of of fish, fish, cerneaax,cerneaux; which which are are green green walnuts, walnuts, served served as as horshorsdd'euvre. œuvre. Hare Hare dàlala chinonaise chinonaiseisis aa speciality. speciality. The The charcuterie charcuterie isis renowned, renowned, notably notably rillettes ril/elles and and rillons, rillons, andouilles andouilles and and andouillettes andoui/lelles of of Tours, Tours, Vouvray Vouvray and and Chinon. Chinon. jambons of Richelieu Richelieu hasits has itspdtts pâtés and,its and itsjambons ofgame game and and poultry. poultry. The The sweetmeats swectmeats of of this this district district are are barley-sugar barley-sugar and and biscuits biscuits from from Tours, Tours, macaroons macarooos from from Cormery Cormery and and Ligueil, Ligueil, cakes cakes called called lele Lochois Lochois and and le le Tourangeau. Tourangeau. Worthy Worthy of ofpraise praise are are the the stuffed stuffed prunes prunes of ofTours Tours and and dried dried prunes prunes of ofPreuilly Preuilly and and Huismes, Huismes, the the dried dried pears pears of of Rivarennes Rivarennes and and the the traditional traditional pastries: pastnes: the the cordts, cordés, russerolles, russero/les, fouaces, fouaces, and aod

shapes, shapes, according according to to the the use use for for which which they they are are intended. intendcd. The The

following following types types oftongs of tongs are are used used at at table: table: asparagus asparagus tongs, tongs, escargot escargol tongs, tongs, sugar sugar tongs, tongs, etc. etc. TONGUE TONGUE (OX, (OX, CAIJ, CALF, SHEEP, SHEEP, PIG). PIG). reNcuEs LANGUES DE DEB
TOI\KA TOJ\'KA BEAN. BEAN. rtvr FÈVE roNrl, TONKA -- Fruit Fruit of of aa leguminous leguminous plant plant rich rieh in in coumarin. coumarin. The The latter latter is is used tlsed in in the the manufacture manufacture of of certain certain liqueurs. liqueurs.

TORPEDO. TORPEDO. ToRIILLETORPILLE - Large Largefish, 5sh, somewhat somewhat resembling resem blingthe the skate. skate, which which isi5 common common in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. The The flesh flesh of of the the torpedo-fish torpedo-5sh is is edible edihle but but mediocre. medioere. It Jt isis prepared prepared like like skate skate (q.v.). (q.v.).

TOT. TOT. nourmoN BOUJARON -- A A small smal! measure measure of of 66 cl. cl. (l (1 dram) dram) which which was was used used for for distributing distributing rum rum to to sailors. sail ors.

TOT-FAIT TOT-FAIT (Pastry) (pastry) -- Mix Mix 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) sifted sifted flour, flour,

250 250g.g. (9 (9 oz., oz., 22cups) cups) sugar, sugar. aa small small pinch pinch of ofsalt, salt, aa little Iittlegrated grated lemon lemon rind rind and and 33 whole whole eggs eggs in in aa basin. basin. When When smooth smooth add add 250 250 g. g. (9 (9 o2.,2 oz., 2 cups) cups) melted melted butter. butter. Blend. Blend. Fill Fil! aa buttered buttered manque manquemould mould with with the the mixture. mixture. Cook Cookin in aa moderately moderately hot hot oven oven for for about about 45 45 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn out out and and allow allow itit to tocool cool before before serving. serving.

TOLJIT'E TOUFFE -- Stalks Stalks tied tied together together in in aa bunch. bunch. Thus Thus parsley parsley arranged arranged inin aa bunch bunch isiscalled called aa touffe touffede depersil. persil.

cassemuse. cassemuse.

930 930

TOURTE vent, vent, wherc where formerly fonnerly the the rich rich merchants merchants and and their their families families used used to to regale regale thernselves themselves with with the the humble humble tourte. tourte.

'But not pride pride themselves themselves on on 'But then then these these merchants merchants did did not being being gastronomes. gastronomes. How How times times have have changed! changed! Our Our great great cooks cooks in in the the old old days days used used to to serve serve tourte tourte at at the the tables tables of of princes...!' princes ... !' Since Since Car€me Carême wrote wrote these these observations observations on on the the discredit discredit suffered tourte in in his his days, days, this this excellenthot excellent hot entriehas entrée has suffered by by the the tourte come come back back into into fashion, fashion, and and now now itit is is not not only only 'merchants' 'merchants' who who regale regale themselves themselves with with it, it, but but also also the the most most fastidious fastidious gastronomes. gastronomes. The The recipe recipe that that Car€me Carême gave gave for for making making the the tourte tourte is is as as follows: follows: Tomte l'ancienne -- 'Make 'Make and and roll roll out out pastry pastry as as Tourte d'entrGt d'entrée ià l'ancienne for for aa timbale. timbale. Cut Cut out out a a round round about about 20 20 cm. cm. (8 (8 inches) inches) in in diameter; diameter; place place this this on on aa metal metal baking baking tin. tin. Make Make 36 36 to to 40 40 boulettes of godiveau, godiveau, about about the the size size ofa of a pigeon's pigeon's boulettes (quenelles (quenelles of egg). Place Place halfofthese half of these in in the the bottom bottom ofthe of the tourte, tourte, keeping keeping them 2t cm. cm. (l (1 inch) inch) away away from from the the edge. edge. Set Set on on top top some sorne slices of lamb's lamb's or or calf's calf's sweetbreads sweetbreads (cooked (cooked aux aux fi'nes fines slices of herbes), herbes), some sorne mushrooms mushrooms and and some sorne artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms cut cut into on the the rest rest of of the the boulettes, boulettes, and, and, on on top, top, into eighths; then then put put on the the shelled shelled claws da ws and and tails ta ils of of 44 good good crayfish, crayfish, mushrooms m ushrooms and and artichoke articboke bottoms, bottoms, to to make make the the top top into into aa perfect perfect dome. dome. 'Next 'Next roll roll out some sorne more more pastry pastry in in the the same sa me way way as as for for the the ctn. (9 bottom bottom of of the the tourte tourte and and cut cut itit into into aa round round 22 22 cm. (9 inches) inches) in should be be about about 55 mm. mm. (* (i inch) inch) thick. thick. Lightly Lightly in diameter; diameter; itit should of the moisten the first first piece piece of of pastry; pastry; over over this this and and its its moisten the the edges edges of garnish of pastry and and press press the the edges edges together together garnish with with the the piece piece ofpastry the boulettes. almost as all ail round almost as far far as as the boulettes. Make Make aa small small hole hole so so steam can can escape. escape. that the that the steam of pastry 'Raise 'Raise and press press the the edges edges of of the the lower lower piece piece of pastry over over as as perfectly seal them second, so so as of the edges of the the edges the second, as to to seal them as perfectly as strip of of set on possible. upper edge possible. Moisten the the upper edge lightly lightly and and set on it it aa strip and than 55 mm. puffpastry not more G inch) puff pastry not more than mm. (i inch) thick, thick, then then fix fix and press this strip. strip. down this press down with egg, egg, place lightly with 'Brush the the upper upper pastry 'Brush pastry lightly place in in the the middle middle (6 inches) diameter, made inches) in l5 cm. cm. (6 pretty rosette, at least least 15 rosette, at of aa pretty in diameter, made little topof top of or aa !ittle pastry as tourte, or as the the tourte, same pastry strips of of the the same of rolled strips ofrolled puffpastry trimmings. puff pastry trimmings. ofstrong, band of with aa band the edges edges with surround the egg, surround 'Brush with egg, strong, hours allow 1lj hours put into oven; allow into aa brisk brisk oven; paper,-ind buttered paper, and put time. baking time. pour in in top, pour (3 inches) of the the top, wide out out of inches) wide 'Cut aa !ittle!id little lid 77lcm. 'Cut i cm. (3 (see SAUCE), recover.' and recover.' SAUCE), and good Espagnole sauce sauce (see aa good LA TRLJFFES À A LA DE TRUFFES rounrE DE perigorudine. TOURTE la périgourdine. Tourte oftruffies of trufres ài la Tourte pfnrcounorNs -- See TRUFFLES. See TR PÉRIGOURDINE UFFLES.

2t

Touraine kitchen. kilchen, Plessisles-Tours Plessis-les-Tours Touraine ce) is t Ofr (Fr ovemment Tour ench G (French Governmenl Tourisl Office)

Touraine produces delightful Wines Wines -- Touraine de!ightful dry wines, at once smooth, which and smooth, strong which have have an an extremely extremely agreeable strong and aroma. aroma_ The best among the white wines are made from the Saint-Avertin, Pineau Pineau grape of Vouvray, then Mont-Louis, Mont-Louis, Saint-Avertin, and Sache; Sache; among among red red wines wines the Candes and Rochecorbon, Candes of strawberries and the Breton of Bourgueil with its aroma of of Bourgueil of raspberries. Chinon Chinon which smells ofraspberries_ aromatic ros6s and aromatic Several pleasant fruity fruit y red wines, good rosés 'Touraine'.. of 'Touraine' under the general name of dry wines are produced produced under (see mousseux (see or mousseux wines can can also also be be pttillant These wines These pétillant or SPARKLING). SPARKLING). communes have have the right Certain communes right to add their own name to to (white, red Touraine-Amboise (white, are Touraine-Amboise They are Touraine. They that of Touraine. that red (white), TouraineTouraineros6s), Touraine-Azay-Ie-Rideau Touraine-Azay-le-Rideau (white), and and rosés), ros6s). Mesland (white, red and rosés).

t

country.inn word for a country TOURNE-BRIDE -- Old word TOURNE-BRIDE inn established lodged. visitors' servants used to be lodged. chiteau where visitors' near a château given to inns where certain inns name given to certain is the the name this is Nowadays this retirb for aa siesta siesta after the meal. guests may retire fillet of the fillet slices ta taken TOLJRNEDOS- Small slices TOURNEDOS-Small ken from the heart of garnished in in various This cut is sautéed saut6ed or or grilled and garnished cut is of of beef. This (see BEEF, BEEF, Tournedos). Tournedos). ways (see

make To make D'ENrnEMErs -- To rouRrEs D'ENTREMETS TOURTES. TOURTES SWEET TOURTES. SWEET When (see DOUGH) times. When 'turned' 66 times. DOUGH) 'turned' we Puffpastry Puffpasrry (see pastry use (about 2|feet) cm. (about given itit should 80 cm. should be be 80 hal been been given last turn turn has ihe last the feet) of edge of inch) off off the the edge cm. (t cutting 1I cm. by cutting Make aa band band by long. Make $ inch) long. (l inch) inch) wide. wide' pastry, then roll the the band band 2*crrt. then roll the pastry, the cm. (1 cut pastry and from itit cut and from the pastry the rest rest of of the more turn turn to to the one more Give one Give (8 inches) on aa the base base on Set the in diameter. diameter. Set inches) in 20 cm. cm. (8 base 20 out aa base out of the band band of Set the round the the edges. edges. Set Moisten lightly lightly round tin. Moisten baking tin. baking join the the band band of the the two two ends ends of pastry on edge, join the moistened moistened edge, on the pastry with egg. egg. together, and and brush brush with pressing them them together, by pressing by (see fruit (see or fruit cream or with aa cream the tourte tourte with of the inside of Fill the the inside Fill and icing sugar sugar and with icing hot oyen. Sprinkle with Bake in in aa hot oven. Sprinkle below). Bake below). glazninthe oven. glaze in the oyen. preparations, such as such as of preparations, all kinds kinds of filled with with ail can be be filled Tourtes can Tourtes raw or or (see CREAMS),jam, CREAMS), jam, raw pastry cream, Frangipane (see cream, Frangipane French pastry French fruit. cooked fruit. cooked tourte Prepare aa tourte ABRIcors -- Prepare AUx ABRICOTS rounrr AUX tourte 1.I. TOURTE Apricot tourte Apricot as described described times as puff pastry pastry rolled turned 66 times rolled and and turned with puff crust with crust the over the sugar over fine sugar Sprinkle fine crust. Sprinkle tourte crust. Prepare aa tourte above. Prepare above. with tourte with Fill the the tourte it. Fill surrounding it. the band band surrounding avoiding the base, avoiding base,

(see SAUCE). SAUCE). for Allemande sauce (see name for Allemande sauce Old name TOURNEE -- Old TOURNÉE

2t

of action of the action and describing describing the to turn, turn, and Literally to TOURNER TOLTRNER -- Literally potatoes Thus potatoes peeling, certain vegetables. Thus certain vegetables. off, while while peeling, rounding off, rounding Carrots, cobnuts, etc. etc. Carrots, olives, cobnuts, 'turned' into into the the shape shape of of olives, are are 'turned' cultivated so are are cultivated and so pot-herbs are are'turned', and other other pot-herbs turnips 'turned', and turnips and Olives shape. Olives peel and the right right shape. them to to the and trim trim them to peel mushrooms, mushrooms, to garnish. used as as aa garnish. 'turned'when they are are used also 'turned' are also are when they

2t

writers, isis culinary writers, say sorne some culinary tourte, say The word word tourte, TOIIRTE - The TOURTEround' means'making which means from the the Latin Latin tortus, tortus, which derived 'ma king round' derived from should be be general way tourte should that the the tourte way that indicating in in aa general thus indicating thus in shape. shape. round in round which really tarts, tarts, which are really these are are sweet sweet tourtes, tourtes, but but these There are There (see also TART). also TART). round in in shape shape (see are usually usually round also are also as served as tourte served TouRTE D'ENTRÉE D'ENrnEn --'The enft6cs. TOURTE Torutes as as entrées. Tourtes 'The tourte de chaudes de Enfites chaudes in his treatise Entrées his treatise said Carême Car€me in an entrée,' entrte,' said an appear on on to appear 'is no sumptuous to pdtisserie, 'is sufficiently sumptuous no longer longer sufficiently pâtisserie, the common; even the is too its shape too corn shape is tables because because its our opulent opulent tables our mon ; even pdtbs and vol-auand vol-auhot pâtés and eat eat only only hot classesdisdain disdain itit and bourgeois classes bourgeois 931 931

TOURTEAU staurants, not only were people people obliged to buy whole whole joints, fowls, etc. from the traiteurs, but bUI were even unable, unable, when when the latterwere only food merchants, latter were only merchants, to eat on the premises. It Tt was in in this this epoch, says says Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Sa varin (about 1770), tbat 'strangers 'SI rangers 1770), that had as as yet very few resources in the way of good cheer cheer ... ... they they were forced forced to have r@ourse recourse to the innkeepers innkeepers who were generally bad. . . . It the traiteurs but bad .... Jt was possible possible to go to the but could only they they could onJy sell whole whole pieces; pieces; and he who wished and he wished to entertain entertain some sorne friends had to order in advance, advance, so that that those Ihose who had not not the good luck to be he invited to some sorne wealthy house left the great city without knowing knowing the resources and delights delighls of Parisian cuisine.' cuisine.' (Physiologie du du gofit goût - MedXXVII.) itation XXWI.\ itation A A certain certain number of of the (he taiteurs traiteurs did, fact, provide provide meals did, in fact, in their establishments establishments and and were were restaurateurs of an an early in their kind, kind, long long before before the first restaurant, founded in 1765 by one Boulanger, was was opened in the (he Rue des des Poulies. Poulies. This This was was not a 'restaurant'in 'restaurant' in the accepted sense sense of of the word. word. Boulanger was still only a traiteur, and there existed in Paris at that time a number number of of establishments establishments similar similar to his.

halves of of well-ripened apricots. Brush Brush the band band with egg and and bake bake in a hot oven. oyen. Coat the apricots apricots lightly with wîth apricot jam jam diluted with a little syrup and strained. strained. Apricot Apricot tourte tourte II II (for (for home home cooking). rounrr TOURTE AUx AUX ABRrcors ABRICOTS 'Roll out some tourtibre (pie dish) on aa tourtière sorne fine pastry; set set it on -- 'Roll lightly lîghùy moistened moistened in the middle. Cut it to the desired size, well weil rounded in shape. Prick the middle and and moisten the edges, fixing of puffpastry 2|cm. them a band band ofpuffpastry 2!cm. (l (1 inch) inch) wide wide and 11 fixing on thern (}inch)thick. cm. H inch) thîck. 'Fill the tourte tourte like a tart, but do not let the fruit touch louch the Ihe band band of pastry, pastry, because this would prevent it il from from rising evenly evenly during during cooking. Brush the upper surface of the Ihe band with egg and mark with the edge of mark it lightly lightly with of a knife.

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'Bake for 45 minutes in aa moderate oven. oyen. Five minutes before it is completely cooked, powder it lightly with icing sugar sugar so 50 that when when it is put put back back in the oven oyen the sugar glazes.' (Montbry.) (Montbry.) Tourte Tourte ià la mode b6arnaise béarnaise -'Melt - 'Melt 500 g. (18 oz., 2 cups) butter and pour it it over over 100 g. g. (4 (4 o2.,4 oz., 4 cakes compressed) compressed) yeast in a bowl. Mix Mix together. 'Add 500 g. (18 oz., 2j sugar, 12 eggs, a small 21 cups) cups) sifted sifted sugar, glass of rum, a little grated lemon peel, peel. a pinch of salt, and enough flour to obtain a firm mixture. Allow to rise rise for 24 hours. 'Divide 'Dîvide into into small small pieces pieces and and put put them them into into buttered moulds. Bake Bake in the oven.' Corsican ToURTE coRsE Corsican tourte. TOURTE CORSE - Bouillie Bouillie of of chestnut flour prepared llke like polenta with the addition of pine kernels kernels and dried fruits flavoured fiavoured with anise, poured into a tourfiAre tourtière and and baked in the oven. oyen. baked Torute ToURTE AUx Tourte with WÎtb various fruits. fruits. TOURTE AUX FRUrrs FRUITS DrvERs DIVERS Made llke Iike Apricot Apricot tourte tourte with with any any kind kind of fruit, fruit, raw raw or cooked, whole or or in halves, quarters or slices. Tourtes Tourtes made with strawberries or or raspberries raspberries are are filled with wîth the fruit after after the pastry is cooked.

TRANCHANT TRANCHANT (Equerry)(Equerry)- Officer in charge of cutting meat of cutting at table table in the great houses. houses.

TRANCTIE TRANCHE GRASSE GRASSE (Iop (Top nnnp) rump) -- The The part of of the the leg legof of beef which which extends extends the the whole whole length length of the the tende tende de de tranche (topside) as far as the the rump. rump. Tranche au au petit petit os os is the Ihe middle middle of of the silverside. silverside.

TRANCHELIR TRANCHEUR -- Waiter Waiter in a restaurant in charge charge of of cutting meat. meat.

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TRANCHOIR, TRANCHOIR, TRENCHER TRENCHER -- Wooden dish on which meat is sliced. A slice slice of ofbread serve<.! as a plate plate in the Middle Middle Ages. bread served These These were also also called called tailloirs. tailloirs.

TRAPPISTES TRAPPISTES -- See CHEESE. CH EESE.

TRAVAILLER TRAV AILLER -- To 'beat'. It is much used in cookery and

TOURTEAU-Name TOURTEAU - Name for the large large edible edible crab. crab.

pastry-making. pastry-making. To beat or or travailler travail/er a sauce sauce is to stir it with a spatula spatula or or wooden wood en spoon spoon to make make it smooth, or mix mix it with a whisk incorporate other otber substances. whisk to incorporate A A forcemeat or other similar mixture is is also beaten, beaten, or travaillL, travaillé, to ta render render it homogenous. homogenous. A paste paste or batter batler is beaten beaten to ensure perfect perfect blending. Travailler is also used Travailler used to indicate indicate a change in the nature of something. It is wine it something. Thus Tbus in speaking speaking of ofwîne it means means to to ferment. ferment.lt used also to describe describe a dough that that rises. rises.

TOLIRTIERE TOURTIÈRE -- Pie dish in which to make tourtes, made made of earthenware or metal. There There are tourfiAres tourtières with plain sides and others others with with goffered goflered edges. edges.

TRAGACANTH TRAGACANTH (gum (guru dragon). dragon). ADRAGANTE ADRAGANTEprovided - Gum provided plants. Tragacanth gum by several species species of ofplants. gum is mentioned in ancient ancient writings. writings.

Perfume-makers, confectioners con fectione rs and and pastry-cooks pastry-cooks use tragacanth tragacantb gum to lO bind their oils or to give body to their pastes. pastes.

TREFOIL GRIFOLruM). (TRlFOLIUM). rntrun TRÈFLE

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- Type Type of leguminous plant plant of of which which one species species is eaten as a vegetable vegetable in Iceland. Another, the the marsh marsh trefoil, trefoU, has bas large large smooth smooth dark green leaves resembling broad bean. These leaves are resembling those of the broad bitter and and are are sometimes sometimes used used instead of hops. hops. The farinaceous i naceous root root is edible edi ble and itil is eaten like like carrot. ca rrot. Trefoil tea tea stimulates stimulates the the appetite; appetite; itil is an an excellent excellent remedy remedy for for troubles troubles of the the digestive tract because its its bitter constituents blend blend instantly with the gastric gastric juices and activate the digestion. the

TRAIT -- Term Term used used by by barmen barmen preparing cocktails cocktails to

describe liquor, usually about a spoonful. describe a fixed quantity quantity of ofliquor, spoonfuL To To pour pour out with with precision precision these these small small quantities quantities the bottle is usually usually stoppered stoppered with a special metal metal cork. cork. Turned Turned rapidly upside upside down a bottle bOUle fitted tltted with this cork allows only only a little liquid to pour pOlir at a time. time. The bottle boule is turned sharply up and down once for every every

traitrequfued. trait required.

TRAITEUR TRAITEUR -- Traiter Traiter means to treat, to receive or welcome welcome

TREMPER TREMPER -- Term used used in in the the expressions expressions tremper tremper la soupe soupe which which means means to soak slices of bread in soup, and tremper tremper le vin,to mix wine wine with with water. vin. to mix

one one to to the table. table. A traiteur who provides provides meals meals for payment. traiteur is someone who

The The traiteul traiteur was, was, in in fact, faet, the the predecessor predecessor of of the the restaurateur. During During the eighteenth eighteenth century century people people dined dined out at the traiteur's. traiteurs. By the Ihe middle of the nineteenth century, cent ury, the term term had had acquired acquired a a slightly slightly derogatory derogatory sense, sense, and and was scarcely scarcely applied except to restaurateurs of the lowest class class and wine merchants merchants who who provided provided meals. meals, There There still exist in Paris, of the the populous populous districts, districts, establishments establishments whose Paris, in in some sorne of signs signs carry carry the the words: words : Marchand Marchand des vins vins -- Traiteur. In ln the the eighteenth century, century, before hefore the the institution institution of rere-

TREMPETTE TREi\1PEITE - A A word word derived from from temper, tremper, to 1O soak, soak, meaning meaning a small sm ail slice of bread bread which whîch has been been dipped in a liquid. liquid. TREPIED TRÉPIED --- A threeJegged three-Iegged kitchen kitchen utensil for supporting supporting cauldrons cauldrons and aod soup soup pots pots over over an gpen open fire. TRESS. TRESSE -- Design Design in which some sorne pastries are made, made, TRFSS. called a plait or'braid'. or 'braid'. It Il is also also called called natte natte in French. French. called

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TRIPE TRIPE TRICLINIUM -- The The special special room room in in which which the the ancient ancient TRICLINruM

Romans took took their their meals. meals. Romans how, according according to to Mazois Mazois (Palais (Palais de de Scaurus), Scaurus), the the Tlùs isis how, This or dining dining room room of ofthe the Romans Romans was was arranged: arranged: triclinium or triclinium As we wewere were about a bout to to pass pass through through the the door door of ofthe the anteante'.' ... . . As triclinium, achild, a child, posted posted there there for for room which which precedes precedes the the ticlinium, room to enter enter with with the the right right foot, foot, so so as as not not the purpose, purpose, warned warned us us to the to bring bring in in evil evil portents. portents. to As soon soon as as we we had had been been announced announced slaves slaves relieved relieved us us of of '.' ... . . As our bracae bracae (breeches) (breeches) and and our our striped striped Gaulish Gaulish sagi sagi (military (military otr and re-clothed re-clothed us us in in fine fine robes robes to to be be worn WOrD only only at at the the coats), and coats'),

Triggerfish Triggerlish

their dorsal dorsal fin fin armed armed with a spine spine which which is is projected projected into an their erect position position when when the the fish fish is threatened threatened with with any any danger. danger. erect This This genus genus includes includes several several species, species, all ail remarkable remarkable for for their balliant metallic metallic colouring and thick granulous granulous skin, which brilliant of armour. armour. has the the texture texture of has Only Only one one species species of the the genus genus is is found found on on the the French Frencb Mediterranean Mediterranean coast. coast. These, when when caught, caught, are are heard heard to to make resembling that of of pigs. In U.S.A. the soa grunting sound, resembling pigtish is very abundant abundant on the South Atlantic Atlantic coast called pigfish oz.) in weight. averages about 225 g. (8 oz.) and averages quite delicate and they The The flesh flesh is is quite delicate and they are are prepared like tunny (tuna fish). sturgeon or tunny sturgeon

table. table. We entered entered the triclinium triclinium and were were scarcely seated seated '.' .... We and poured poured cold cold water water over over our before Egyptian Egyptian slaves slaves came came and before hands while while others, others, having having taken taken offour off our sandals, sandals, washed washed our hands feet and and cleaned c1eaned our our toenails, toenails, even even though though the the same service service feet had already already been been performed performed for for us us in in the the bath. bath. The The triclinium triclinium had or dining dining room room isis twice twice as as long long as as itit isis wide wide and and is is divided divided into or two. The Tbe upper upper part part isis occupied occupied by by the the table table and couches; couches; the two. is kept kept free free for the the service and and for entprtainment. ent~rtainment. lower is lower tbe former part the walls are ornamented up to a Around the costly paintings. The decoration decoration of the certain height with costly rest of of the room is noble, and, at the same time, in keeping keeping rest character; the pillars, pillars, festooned with ivy and vines, with its character; div ide the the walls walls into sections, sections, each each of of which is is bordered with divide each panel there have fanciful ornaments. In the centre of each grace young young fauns or or Dacchantes bacchantes been painted painted with with admirable grace been bearing thyrsi, vases, vases, cups and paraphernalia of the and ail all the paraphernalia bearing feast. Above these these columns runs a great frieze frieze divided into feast. is surmounted by one of the each of which is twelve tableaux, each signs represents the foodstuffs which which are the Zodiac and and represents signs of of the most sought after in the month which the sign belongs; so month to whicb that underneath bave been painted shrimps, shrimps, been painted undemeath Sagittarius Sagittarius have that shellfish passage, under bsters, sealobsters, seaand birds of under Capricorn, Capricorn, 10 of passage, shellfish and boar and birds; under uarius duck, fish, game birds; under Aq Aquarius and game wild boar fish, aa wild plover, pigeons and etc. and water-rails, etc. 'Bronze 'Bronze lamps, same metal or chains of of the same lamps, suspended suspended from chains supported shed aa bright workmanship, shed candelabras ofrare of rare workmanslùp, supported by by candelabras light; the were careful careful to cut the to look after slaves detailed after tbem them were light; slaves detailed to wicks did DOt not lack oil. oil. and see see that they they did wicks from time to time and 'The table, heart of of the heart cedar wood brought table, made made of of cedar brought from tbe Mauretania ivory. It It feet of prized above of ivory. rested on on feet and prized above gold, rested Mauretania and was five weighing five silver weighing covered with with aa massive massive tray tray of of silver was covered hundred pound s, ornamented pounds, anaglyphs. with chasing chasing and and anaglyphs. ornamented with The persons, were were of of for thirty thirty persons, couches, enough enough for dining couches, The dining bronze, ver, gold gold and enriched with with ornament ornament in in sil silver, and tortoisetortoisebronze, enriched shell; purple-dyed wool and the the the mattresses mattresses of of purple-dyed wool from from Gaul Gaul and shell; the rich were covered covered with with brilliantly brilliantly rich feather-filled feather-filled cushions cushions were coloured with silk silk mixed mixed coloured materials, materials, woven woven and and embroidered embroidered with with gold thread. made thread. Chrysippus us that that they they bad had been been made Chrysippus told with gold told us at cost four four million million sesterces. sesterces. at Babylon Babylon and and that that they they cost 'The caprice of of the the curious caprice represented, by by aa curious 'The mosaic mosaic floor floor represented, artist, fallen had fallen they had scraps of of food, food, as as though though they sorts of of scraps all sorts artist, ail naturally glance itit seemed not to to ground, so seemed not at tirst first glance to the so that that at naturally to the ground, have of the the At the the end end of the last last meal. meal. .. . . .. At swept since since the have been been swept room This vases. This brass vases. some Corinthian had been set up up sorne Corinthian brass room there there had been set triclinium, palace, in his his palace, had in four tbat that Scaurus Scaurus bad the largest largest of of four triclinium, the could Ycouches, seldom was seldom couches, but but itit was table with with sixt sixty easily hold hold aa table could easily that great occasions, occasions, guests met when, on on great there, and and when, so many many guests met there, that so there people invited, were invited, tbey they were were five six hundred hundred people five or or six there were received for reserved for was reserved room was in the This dining dining room the atrium. atrium. This received in autumn, the Romans the study of of the made aastudy spring;the Romans made winter and and spring; autumn, winter enjoyment seasons. of changing changing seasons. enjoyment of 'The triclinium there there for each each triclinium regulated so so that that for 'The service service was wasregulated were its with its great number kinds, each each witb different kinds, number of tables of of different of tables were aagreat own servants.' vases, disbes dishes and and servants.' ownvases,

which several fish, of of which of fish, Species of TRIGLE. TRIGLE. GURNARD cuRNARD -- Species varieties exist (see GURNET). GURNET). varieties corr@t which spoil the correct remove ail all parts wbich TRIM. rARER PARER -- To remove food. aappearance ppearance of offood. goods') means means to make aa Parer la,marchandise latnarchandise ('to trim the goods') Parer concealing the others goods, featuring the best and concealing display of ofgoods, customer. -- those which are to be delivered to the customer.

pmunes-This of all the theparts TRIMMINGS. PARURESThis term applies to ail parts of the are removed before the meat, such as sinews, skin, etc., which are meat is cooked. cooked. and pork veal, beef beef and Fresh especially veal, meat trimmings, trimmings, especially Fresh meat in preparing used in stocks, used are used used for for making making stocks, trimmings, trimmings, are (see STOCKS). sauces (see STOCKS). for stocks stocks should only only be used for utton and M and lamb lamb trimmings trimmings should Mutton same these sa intended me meats. accompany these sauces to to accompany intended for sauces food. used as as food. ruminants used stomach of of ruminants TRIPE. rRIpEs -- The The stomach TRIPE. TRIPES pigs and and as pigs such as animals, such from certain certain butchered butchered animais, Only tripes from Only tripes in Provence Provence are used used in The latter latter are sheep, considered edible. edible. The are considered sheep, are in and in pieds-paquets àh la preparation of la marseillaise, marseillal'se, and for of pieds-paquets for the the preparation pittram. as pétéram. dish known known as make aa dish the of France France to to make the southwest southwest of saussmall sauslarge and and small to enclose enclose large Pig's intestines are are used used to Pig's intestines and make andouilles andouillesand and to to make ages, and saveloy, saveloy, and boudins and ages, boudins andouil/et tes. andouillettes. nonetheless is nonetheless gelatine and as itit may may be, be, is and tasty in gelatine tasty as Tripe, Tripe, rich rich in be therefore be should therefore indigestible. ItIt should Iike heavy and and indigestible. most offal offal heavy like most good health. health. who enjoy eaten those who enjoy good even by by those in moderation moderation even eaten in from dyspepdyspepsuffer from ItIt isis not for those those who who suffer recommended for not recommended preparation of tripe see see of tripe . For sia, gout or For the the preparation or uricaemia uricaemia. sia, gout OFFALor VARIETY MEATS. MEATS. OFFAL or VARIETY (beef) isis used famous for the the famous used for The first stomach stomach of of oxen oxen (beef) The tirst gras-double àdlala lyonnaise. tripes mode de lyonnaise. and gras-double lamode de Caen Caenand tripes àd la past' the past. goes back into the far iuto 'The origin back far 'The these dishes dishes goes origin of of these of praised this noted the the excellence excellence of Athenaeus Homer noted this dish. dish. Homer Athenaeus praised by tripe accompanied accompanied by tripe. enjoyed tripe William the the Conqueror Conqueror enjoyed tripe. William juice, but Neustrian neglected to to mention mention has neglected history has but history apple juice, Neustrian apple quarrel between between question of the quarrel that the cause cause of of the tripe was was the of tripe that aaquestion which France, wbich William King of of France, Phillip l,I, King the Bastard Bastard and and Phillip William the replied by by aa provoked pleasantry by William replied latter. William provoked aa pleasantry by the the latter. "That he would come come promise hewould promiseas historic as asitit isisthreatening: threatening: "Tbat ashistoric thousand with ten ten thousand and de Paris Paris with Notre-Dame de churchedatatNotre-Dame and be be cburched lances candles." instead of ofcandies." lances instead quarrel gastronomic quarrel 'And 'And thus, century, aagastronomic theeleventh eleventh century, thus,ininthe this led However, atat this Vexin. However, invasion of the Norman Norman Vexin. the invasion of the led to to the

TRIGGERFISH. by distinguishable by fishdistinguishable sA,LtsrE- - Genus Genus of of fish TRIGGERFISH. BALISTE

933 933

TRIPERIE TRIPERIE time the the dreary dreary cuisine cuisine of of the the Middle Middle Ages Ages had had not not known known tune prepare tripe. how to to prepare tripe. ItIt was wasonly only three threecenturies laterthat centuries later that the the how great Benoît Benoit had had the the intelligence intelligence to to add add to to the the tastelessness tastelessness of of great the original original dish dish that that which which isisatat the goodcooking, heart of the heart of ail allgood cooking, the to wit, wit, well-judged well-judged seasoning. seasoning. This This was was the cook who the cook who to immortalised his gastronomically. his district district gastronomically. immortalised 'On the the tables tables offamous of famous restaurants restaurants tripe tripe cornes comes on fixed on aafixed 'On day, steaming steaming in in brown brown terrines terrines fixed in sil fixed in silver heaters. At At the the day, ver heaters. wine merchants' merchants' and and atat the the door door of placard of the the dairy, dairy, aa placard wine announces that that the the menu menu of the day of the day includes includes tripe. tripe. There There itit isis announces plates. from thick thick china eaten from china plates. eaten 'It cannot cannot be be denied denied that preparation isis long that the the preparation long and and 'It laborious, and and that quantity must that aalarge must be be made made in in order order to to laborious, large quantity greatest succulence. achieve the the greatest succulence. achieve perfect succulence 'But the the perfect succulence isis there, there, so so long long as as the the squares squares 'But mesentery bathe of mesentery golden juices, whose bathe in in the the goldenjuices, perfume whets whose perfume whets of juice of the appetite, appetite, and and aa few few bottles pure juice bottles of of the the pure Neustrian of Neustrian the apples, the Norman cider, the true true Norman cider, father golden drunkenness, father of of golden drunkenness, apples, make their their appearance appearance at (Phil6as Gilbert.) same time!' at the the same time !' (Philéas Gilbert.) make The detailed detailed recipe recipe for for tripes tripes àd la la mode mode de de Caen Caen will will be be The found under under OFF OFFAL or V VARIETY MEATS. found AL or ARIETY MEATS.

TROU DU DUMILIEU MILIEU ororCOUP COUP DU DUMIUEU MILIEU - -Glass Glassof ofeaueauTROU de-vieor orother otherliqueurwhich liqueur whichused usedtotobe drunkininthe bedrunk themiddle middleof of de-vie andelaborate elaborate meal. meal. aalarge large and Thecoup coupdu dumilieuwasreplaced sorbetswhich bysorbets areserved served The milieu was replaced by which are between the entrhe and theentrée andthe theroast. roast. between peoples of Certain peoples of the the North North ofofEurope, Europe, notably notablythe Certain the (aqluavit) between Swedes,drink dinkeau-de-vie eau-de-vie(aquavit) betweencourses. courses. Swedes, The trou trou normande normandeisisthe thesame sameasasthe dumilieu, troudu milieu,but The the trou but the the former must mustalalways beeau-de-vie eau-de-vie distilled distilled from fromapples. apples. former ways be TROUSSE -- Sheath Sheath that that holds holdi the the butcher's TROUSSE butcher'sor orcook's cook,s implements.The trousse isissuspended suspendedfrom from the theapron implements. The trousse apronstring. string.

Rainbow Rainbow troU[ lrout (Baufu) (Bauf/e)

TROUT. TRUITE rRUrrE -- Species Species of group as of fish fish of the same TROUT. of the same group asthe the salmon, whose whose flesh, flesh, very very delicate, delicate, isis white, pinkish or salmon, white, pinkish or 'salmon'coloured, according to to the the waters waters itit in 'salmon' coloured, according habits. inhabits. In French French fresh fresh waters waters two two kinds kinds of In of trout trout are are found: found: (truite commune, common trout trout (truite commune, truite common truite de riyibre, de de rivière, de ruisseau ruisseau or de de torrent) torrent) which which live live in in running running water. or water. They They correspond correspond to to the American American mountain mountain trout, trout, dolly the dolly vardens, vardens, brook brook or or speckled trout. trout. The (truite saumonée, The salmon salmon trout troat (truite speckled saumonte, truite tuite de de mer or or truite truite de de Dieppe) Dieppe) are are fish pink and fish whose mer whose flesh flesh is is pink which, and which, like the the salmon, salmon, go go up rivers and up the the rivers like correspond to and correspond to the the American brown brown or or river river trout. American trout. Another Another variety variety of of trout, trout, called the rainbow trout, the rainbow trout, also also an called an anadromous anadromous species, species, isis aa of California. lt It was was iJnported imported into native ofCalifornia. into Europe years Europe sorne some years ago, has now become acclimatised ago, acclimatised and and is is increasing increasing rapidly. rapidly. It isis robust robust and and does does weil It well in in waters waters less less fresh fresh than than those those common trout. demanded by the common trout. There are are also also lake lake trout which, There which, living living in in very very deep deep water, water, to aa very very large large size, grow to size, but but their their flesh flesh is is less less delicate delicate than than of river trout. trout. that of All methods methods of preparation given of preparation given for AlI for fiUets fillets of of sole sole or or whiting (see SOLE, WHITING) are are applicable applicable to trout. to trout.

TRIPERIE -- The The sale sale of place in of tripe, tripe, or or the the place in which which itit isis sold. sold. TRIPERIE well as As weil as tripe tripe of of the the ordinary ordinary kind, kind, the the triperie triperie sells sells other other As (variety meats): kinds of of offal offal (variety meats): calf's calf 's and and sheep's sheep's head, head, brains, brains, kinds sweetbreads, udder, udder, feet, feet, tongue, tongue, hearts, hearts, liver, liver, spleen spleen and and sweetbreads, kidneys. kidneys.

Mould make Trois Trois Freres Frdres Mould to [0 Olake

RMR TROUT. TRUITES RIVER rRUrrEs DE os RIVIÈREnrvdnr rRUrrE AU BLEU -- The Blue trout. TRUITE The trout must must be absolutely absolutely fresh. Ten Ten minutes before fresh. before serving serving take take the the fish fish out out of of the the water, kill them with a hard blow on the head, gut gut and and clean sprinkle with vinegar, and plunge them, sprinkIe plunge into aa court-bouillon containing a high proportion of vinegar. Cook as containing as rapidly rapidly as as possible, allowing 7 to 8 minutes for fish weighing about 150 possible, allowing g. (5 oz.) each. each. Drain the trout and garnish with fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with melted melted butter butter or Hollandaise Hollandaise sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Blue trout (cold). TRUITES TRUrrEs AU AU BLEU FROIDES FRorDEs -- Prepared Prepared as as above. Allow Allow to cool cool in the court-bouillon. Garnish with fresh parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with Ravigote Ravigote sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). sauces. TRUITES RlVIÈRE Boiled river trout with various saucesi. TRUrrEs DE on nrvdnr BOUILLIES - Cook the fish in court-bouillon, drain BoUILLIES drain and and serve serve with Hollandaise sauce sauce or or any other sauce suitable with Hollandaise suitable for boiled (see SAUCE). SAUCE). fish (see River hout trout ià la bourguignonne. bourguignonne. rRUrrEs TRUITES oe DE ruvriRE RIVIÈRE A À rA, LA BOURGUIGNONNE - Prepare like like River wine (see (see BoURGUTcNoNNE River trout in red wine below), using using red Burgundy. Burgundy. Garnish Garnish with mushrooms and and below), small glazed glazed onions. onions. Coat Coat with with sauce sauce prepared prepared as as in the recipe recipe small River trout trout in in red red wine. wine. for River for River trout trout Colbert. Colbert. TRUrrEs TRUITES on DE ruvriRE RIVIÈRE coLBERT COLBERT - Open the River - Open the fish down down the the back back and and remove remove the central bone. Coat Coat the the fish trout with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and fry fry in in hot hot deep deep fat fat or or oil. oil. trout When crisp crisp and and golden-brown, golden-brown, drain drain and and set set on on aa dish. dish. Put Put in in When

TROIS TROIS FRiIRES FRÈRES (Pashy) (Pastry) - Pastry Pastry created by the three Julien brothers, brothers, celebrated celebrated pastry-cooks pastry-cooks of the nineteenth nineteenth century, for trois frbres was for which which aa special special mould mould called the moule it à trois frères was created. created. Ingredients. 500 500 g. g. (18 (18 oz., 33 cups) rice flour, 376 g. (13 oz., -Ingredients. 2f 2i cups) cups) sugar, sugar, 400 400 g. g. (14 (14 oz., oz., lJ 1t cups) butter, butter, 15 15 eggs, eggs, I1 liqueur liqueur glass glass maraschino, maraschino, pinch pinch of of salt, 50 g. g. (2 o2.,1 oz., 1- cup) cup) candied candied angelica angelica cut cut in in small smaIJ dice. Method. Method. Put Put the the sugar, eggs eggs and salt into a copper pan, pan, placing placing itit in in aa bain-marie, which which is is placed placed in turn in a saut6 sauté pan pan filled filled with with hot hot water. Whisk Whisk until until itit becomes becomes thick and frothy. frothy. Add Add the the rice rice flour, flour, melted melted butter butter and and maraschino. maraschino. Fill buttered buttered and and floured floured moulds moulds with with the the mixture. mixture. Bake in a fairly fairly hot hot oven. oyen. Set Set the the cakes cakes on on aa base base ofsweet of sweet pastry. pastry. Cover Coyer with with apricot apricot syrup syrup and and sprinkle sprinkle with with chopped chopped almonds and the the diced diced angelica. angelica.

TROGNON TROGNON -- Edible Edible heart heart of of aa vegetable vegetable or or fruit. fruit. Trognons Trognons ofcertain of certain vegetables, vegetables, notably notably those those ofchicory of chicory and and cabbage, cabbage, can can be be prepared prepared in in various various ways ways (see (see CHICORY). CHICORY). TRONCON TRONÇON (CHUNK) (CHUNK) -- Term Term for for aa piece piece of of food food which which isis cut cut so so that that itit isis longer longer than th an itit isis wide. wide. Used Used to to describe describe pieces pieces cut cut from from the the middle middle of ofaa large large fish. fish.

TROPIQUE-The TROPIQUE - The hottest hottest part part of ofthe the oven. OYen. 934 934

TROUT middle of of each trout a tablespoon of Colbert butter (see the middle of fried BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). Garnish Garnish with with a bunch offried BUTTER, parsley parsley at each each end ofthe of the dish. trout, cold. cold. rnutrEs TRUITES oB DE RtvttnE RIVlÈRE FRoIDES FROIDES - All Ail the River trout, preparing cold salmon trout are are applicable to methods of preparing river trout. See below. river Fillets of river trout tront en papillotes ià I'ancienne. l'ancienne. FILETS FiLETS DE TRUITES os DE nrvrtRE RIVlÈRE EN pAprI.I-orEs PAPILLOTES A À L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE -- Fillet the TRUrrEs season, and half half cook them them in butter. butter. Put Put them, them, two by trout, season, foil, cut into the two, on greaseproof paper or aluminium foil, two, shape of of hearts and and oiled, on a layer of duxelles mixed with sauce Veloutt saUce chopped truffies truffles and bound with concentrated Velouté chopped (see SAUCE) based on fish fish stock. Cover the fillets with the over the mixture. Close Close the papillotes, folding over the edges same mixture. carefully. Cook in the oven. carefully. garnished with duchess duchess potatoes Grilled trout garnished

I0 and cook, cook, covered, for 10 Burgundy to cover the fish. Season, and Burgundy pan. Add small in the pan. and replace in the trout trout and minutes. Drain the glazed onions and in butter. Pour saut6ed in and small mushrooms sautéed glazed and butter and with Kneaded butter thickened with over the cooking liquor thickened strained (see BUTTER, Compound butters). strained in aa deep dish, for 15 the trout trout in deep dish, 15 minutes. minutes. Serve Serve the Simmer for garnished with croûtons crottons fried fried in butter. garnished TRUITES EN EN MATELOTE MATELoTT À A LA u matelote ài la normande. TRUITES Trout en matelote using white white wine. trout as as above, above, using the trout NORMANDE NoRMANDE -- Cook Cook the cooked in aa sauté saut6 pan with smail small mushrooms cooked Drain and put in shelled crayfish. crayfish. Pour and water court-bouillon, afid shelled court-bouillon, and in a flour and cooking with the cooking SAUCE) made with over aa Normande sauce (see SAUCE) gently. Serve in aa deep deep dish dish ttte trout trout in liquor. Simmer Simmer gently. Serve the Iiquor. garnished with fried cooked in in courtcourtfried croûtons cro0tons and and crayfish crayfish cooked garnished bouillon. bouillon. rnuttns DE oe RIVIÈRE mvIinB matelote ài la la tourangeUe. tourangelle. TRUITES River trout en en matelote in the trout in or in in half half or I-,c, TOURANGELLE rounA,NGELLE -- Cut Cut the EN MATELoTE À A LA EN MATELOTE (see red wine wine (see pieces, according them in in red according to to their their size. size. Cook Cook them pieces, glazed garnish with with small small glazed dish and and garnish MATELOTE). MATELOTE). Set Set on on aa dish fish, crayfish with the fish, crayfish cooked with onions, and lardDns lardons cooked onions, mushrooms and in fried in in court-bouillon and heart-shaped heart-shaped croûtons crottons fried cooked court-bouillon and cooked in butter. usuNrine -- Cook Cook the the la meunière. rRUIrEs À rn MEUNIÈRE Trout Trout ài la meuniire. TRUITES A LA platter. salt. Arrange Arrange them them on on aa platter. trout in in butter with with aa pinch of of salt. juice of to the the butter butter lemon and and aa little little fresh fresh cream cream to Add of aa lemon Add the juice pour over pan. Wann trout. Serve Serve Warm itit slightly and pour over the the trout. in in the the pan. slightly and immediately. immediately. RIvIiRE ÀA LA I-A, TRUITEs DE oe RIVIÈRE River la vauclusienne. vauclusienne. TRUITES River trout trout ài la replacing like Trout la meunière, meuniire, replacing VAUCLUSIENNE Prepared Iike Trout àd la vAUcLUsIENNn -- Prepared the butter with with olive olive oil. oil. This recipe recipe DE RtvIi,Re AU vrnr - This River River trout trout au au vert. TRUITES TRUITEs DERIVlÈRE A.u VERTvert Prepare as as for for Eels Eels au au vert is is mainly suitable for for smail small trout. trout. Prepare mainly suitable (see EEL). (see EEL). pe RIVlÈRE ruvttne AU vIN ROUGERoucg River trout in in red red wine wine J.I. TRUITES rnutrEs DE River trout ^e,u VIN pepper. Put in aa with salt salt and and pepper. Put in Season the trout trout inside inside and and out out with Season the carrot, heat-proof dish, lined, every 4 trout, 1I onion and 1I carrot, onionand forevery4trout, lined, for heat-proofdish, red in butter. Pour over over enough enough red chopped cooked in butter. Pour chopped and and lightly lightly cooked then top, then wine trout. Start Start cooking cooking on on top, cover the the trout. wine to to almost almost cover l0 minutes. minutes. co ver and for 10 in aa hot hot oven oven for cook in cover and cook with aa Drain dish. Coat Coat with and set set on on aa serving serving dish. Drain the the trout, trout, wipe wipe and prbpared as red sauce prepared as follows: follows: red wine wine sauce Strain with 1I tablespoon tablespoon liquor, thicken thicken itit with the fish fish cooking cooking liquor, Strain the (see BUTTER, and butters) and of BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butter (see of Kneaded Kneaded butter (3 tablespoons) butter. cook tablespoons) butter. minute. Add Add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 cook for for aa minute. Strain. Strain. vIN ROUGE RoucE River rnulrns DE oe RIVIÈRE RIvIinr AU AU VlN in red red wine wine II. II. TRUITES River trout trout in pepper in in aa buttered -- Put buttered with salt salt and and pepper the trout, trout, seasoned seasoned with Put the baking dish. fish fumet made with with red red wine. wine. Cook Cook dish. Pour Pour over overfishfumetmade in coat with with the the dish and and coat Drain the Set on on aa dish in the the oven. oven. Drain the trout. trout. Set

Fried trout

Fried trout are Fried trout. TRUITES TRUrrEs DE op RIVlÈRE mvrtRn FRITES FRrrEs -- Small Small trout prepared in this way. Proceed as for Fried prepared Fried bass (see BASS). Grilled river TRUITEs DE cnnrErs -- Make river trout. TRUITES nrvdnn GRILLÉES on RIVlÈRE shallow cuts cuts on the back of the trout. Season, flour lightly, trout. Season, brush with oil or melted melted butter, and cook under the grill at aa (see BUTTER, gentle heat. heat. Serve with Maître Maitre d'hôtel dhitel butter (see Compound butters) or any other sauce suitable fish suitable for grilled fish Compoundbutters) (see SAUCE). SAUCE). River trout ài l'hôtelière. I'h6teliire. TRUITES rRUlrEs DE nrvrtRn À r-'n6rrntnn op RIVIÈRE A L'HÔTELlÈRECoat the trout with egg and breadcrumbs and and fry. fry. Set Set on on aa egg and (see dish dish on on aa mixture mixture of duxelles duxelles and and Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel butter butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters) in the ratio of 1I tablespoon of of duxelles to to 100 g. (4 oz., tablespoons) butter. Put halfslices half slices o2.,66 tablespoons) oflemon dish. of lemon with fluted fluted edges along the sides of of the dish. River ln rnulrss DE os RIVIÈRE ruvdnr ÀA LA River trout hussarde. TRUITES la hussarde. trout ài la (see HUSSARDE l0 river river trout with Fish forcemeat HUssARDE -- Stuff Stuff 10 trout with forcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) till FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed with with chopped chopped onion onion cooked cooked till (I8 tender in butter, allowing 100 g. (18 g. (4 oz., oz., tcup) 100 g. onion, 500 500 g. I cup) onion, oz., generous 22 cups) forcemeat. forcemeat. Season. Season. (4 oz., Put the trout in t cup) g. (4 100 g. in aa baking tin lined lined with with 100 o2.,1cup) finely without chopped ornons lightly cooked cooked in in butter, onions lightly finely chopped butter, without (.| pint, colouring. pint, 1I garni. Pour over dl. (1 colouring. Add aa small small bouquet bouquet garni. over 22 dl. cup) dry white wine. top. wine. Dot small small pieces of of butter over over the top. Cook in the oven, oven, basting frequently. Drain the trout, set with the cooking cooking set on aa serving serving dish, dish, coat coat with liquor le Velouté (see SAUCE) thickened with with aa litt little Veloutb sauce SAUCE) liquor thickened sauce (see based Glaze on fish stock, stock, enriched enriched with with butter and and strained. strained. Glaze based on in very hot oven. in aa very oven. Jellied on RIVlÈRE river trout RrvriRn ÀA LA rl. GELÉE cELEs trout in in red red wine. wine. TRUITES TRUrrEs DE Jellied river AU vIN ROUGE RoucE -- Prepared chambertin AU VIN Prepared Iike au chambertin like Glazed Glazed salmon solmon au (see SALMON). SALMON). Jellied various in the same way way using using various Jellied trout can can be be prepared in the same wines: wines: Barsac, Barsac, Chambertin, Chinon, Madeira Madeira Chambertin, Champagne, Champagne, Chinon, and and others. others. Trout MATELoTE Trout en en matelote matelote ài la bourguignonne. TRUITES EN EN MATELOTE bourguignonne. TRUITES À put them souncurcNoNNE -- Cut chunks, put them into chunks, A LA r,c, BOURGUIGNONNE Cut the the trout trout into in lightly saut6 pan lined in aa sauté with chopped chopped onions and carrots carrots lightly lined with onions and cooked garni. Pour red Pour over over enough enough red in butter. Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni. cooked in 935 935

TROUT TROUT cooking liquor liquor thickened pint, licups) thickened with with 33dl. dl. (1(| pint, lt cups)Espagnole Espagnole cooking sauce based based on on fish fish stock, stock, enriched enriched with with butter butterand andstrained strained sauce (seeSAUCE). SAUCE). (see River trout hout in in white white wine. rRUrrEs DE wine. TRUITES DERIVIÈRE Rruinr AU vrN BLANC lu VIN BLANc - River Prepareas asfor (see BRILL). Brill ininwhite wine (see BRILL). Prepare for Brill white wine

TROUT. TRUlTE SALMON TROUT. rRUrrE SAUMONÉE s,c,uMoNfs -- This This trout trout usually usually SALMON pink flesh, has pink flesh, like like salmon, salmon, hence hence its its name. name. Trout Trout with with very very has pale flesh, flesh, sometimes sometimes even even completely completely white, white, afe are also also found, found, pale no less and are are no less excellent quality. excellent in in quality. and All the the methods preparation given methods of of preparation given for (q.v.) are for salmon salmon(q.v.) are AlI equally applicable applicable to to salmon salmon trout. give the trout. In In addition addition we we give the equally following recipes, recipes, which which are are also also applicable applicable to to salmon. salmon. following Salmon trout trout Beauharnais. Beauharnais. TRUITE TRUTTE SAUMONÉE slurr,roNfe BEAUHARNAIS BEAUHARNATs Salmon Stuffa medium-sized salmon salmon trout trout with (see with Fishforcemeat Fishforcemeat (see -- Stuff a medium-sized FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed with with 44 tablespoons (* cup) tablespoons (~ cup) mirepoix mirepoix FORCEMEAT) of diced diced carrots, carrots, celery, celery, onions onions cooked cooked until until soft soft in in butter butter for for of g. (9 (9 oz., every 250 250 g. o2.,11 cup) cup) offorcemeat. of forcemeat. every Put the the trout trout on grid of on the the grid of aa buttered buttered fish-kettle. in fish-kettle. Pour Pour in Put fish fumet, made with with white white wine, wine, to to reach reach half-way half-way up up the the fumet, made fish fish. Cook Cook in in the the oyen, oven, basting frequently. frequently. fish. Set the the trout trout on garnish each on aa dish dish and and garnish each end with Noisette Noisette end with Set (see POT potatoes (see POTATOES) cooked in in butter, butter, and and the the sides sides potatoes ATOES) cooked with very very small small artichoke artichoke bottoms cooked cooked in in butter and filled filled butter and with (see SAUCE). with Beauharnais Beauharnais sauce (see SAUCE). with Salnon trout trout Bercboux. Berchoux. TRUITE TRUITE SAUMONÉE s,c,uMor.Ifn BERCHOUX BERcHoux -Salmon pr&e Stuff aa salmon salmon trout trout weighing about (41b.) about 22 kg. kg. (4 with Pike Stuff lb.) with (see FORCEMEAT) la crème udme (see FORCEMEAT) to which chopped chopped forcemeat àh la truffies have been added. truffles Put the the trout trout on on the the buttered grid of buttered grid of aa fish fish kettle, kettle, the the Put bottom of which which is is lined lined with with chopped chopped carrot carrot and and on onion bottom of ion cooked until until soft soft in in butter, good handful butter, aa good handful of of mushroom peelings and a bouquet bouquet garni. peelings and Pour in fishfumet made with white wine to reach half-way up trout. Season Season and and start cooking on on top of ofthe stove, up the trout. the st ove, then coyer cover the fish kettle kettle and cook in a slow oyen 40 oven for about 40 minutes, basting basting the fish often during cooking. Drain it on a dish, rem remove Drain the trout, set it ove the central part of of the skin so that the black parts of ofthe flesh are seen. seen. Sprinkle the flesh the few tablespoons tablespoons of of its its cooking cooking liquor, the fish fish with with aa few previously strained, and glaze lightly in the oyen. and glaze oven. Surround garnish, the various Surround the trout with the following garnish, elements of which should grouped separately: separately: 8 barquettes ofwhich should be grouped filled with carp tvrth Normande (see carp roes and coated with Normande sauce sauce (see SAUCE), 8 small croquettes croquettes made made with salpicon of crayfish, mushrooms (see with Velouté Veloutt sauce mushrooms and and truffies truffies bound bound with sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and fried, and 8 very small artichoke artichoke bottoms, half cooked cooked in in a a flour-and-water flour-and-water court-bouillon, simmered simmered in butter, butter, filled with with a large-diced large-diced salpicon salpicon oftruffies of trufres bound with cream, sprinkled with grated Parmesan and browned under gra ted Parmesan the the grill. Strain the cooking cooking liquor. Add Add to this 3 dl. (| (1 pint, 1l|i cups) Strain the saucebased veloutb on fish fish stock. Boil Boil down over over strong strong heat, velouté sauce based on adding adding to to the the sauce, sauce, little !ittle by by little, 33 dl. (! (1 pint, lf, li cups) thick fresh fresh cream. Add Add butter butter to the sauce sauce and strain. Pour Pour a few tablespoons of sauce into into the the bottom bottom ofthe of the dish dish and serve serve the tablespoons ofsauce rest rest in in aa sauceboat. sauceboat. Cold TRUlTE s.lurr,roNbs SAUMONÉE Cold salmon salmon trout trout with with various sauces. sauces. TRUTTE FRoIDE Cook the the trout trout in in a court-bouillon court-bouillon as for salmon. salmon. FROIDE -- Cook Allow to cool cool in in its its cooking cooking liquor. liquor. Drain Drain and and wipe. Garnish Garnish Allow to with with sprigs sprigs of of parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with mayonnaise mayonnaise or any cold sauce SAUCE). sauce suitable suitable for for cold cold fish fish (see (see SAUCE). Salmon Salmon frout trout en en douillette. douillette. TRUTTE TRUITE sAUuoNfE SAUMONÉE rN EN oouTLLETTE DOUILLETTE Fillet aa medium-sized medium-sized trout, trout, season season with with salt and pepper, pepper, -- Fillet and and cook cook quickly quickly in in butter butter to to seal seal them. them. Allow Allow to to cool. cool. Roll out some sorne ordinary ordinary Brioche Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) Roll out made made without without sugar sugar and and kept kept rather rather firm. firm. Put Put a a thin thin layer layer of of Pike Pike forcemeat forcemeat d à la la ubme crème (see (see

Cold salmon salmontrout Cold trout

FORCEMEAT) in in the the middle middle of FORCEMEAT) of the the dough. dough. Place Place aafillet fillet on on this forcemeat. forcemeat. Coyer Cover the fillet with with more the fillet this more forcemeat, forcemeat, to which to which some diced diced crayfish crayfish and sorne and truffles trufles have have been been added. added. Put Put the the second fillet fillet on on top top of second of this this and and coyer cover with with another another thin thin layer layer forcemeat. Put pieceof of forcemeat. Put aa rolled-out rolled-out piece of of brioche brioche dough doughon on top top of the the fish. fish. Press Press edges of edges together. together. Make Make an an opening opening in in the the middle to to allow allow steam middle steam to place to to escape. escape. Put Put in in aa warm wann place rise. to rise. Brush over the surface surface with over the Brush with melted melted butter and sprinkle sprinkle with butter and with fine breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Bake fine in aa moderate Bake in moderate oyen for about oven for about 45 45 minutes. Set on on aa dish. dish. Pour Pour over minutes. Set over aa few few tablespoons tablespoons ofmelted of melted butter. Serve (see SAUCE). Serve with with Nantua butter. Nantua sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Glazed salmon salmon trout Glazed trout au au cbambertin. clambertin. TRUITE TRUTTE SAUMONÉE s.c,uMoN6e FRoIDE AU FROIDE AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERTTN -- Prepare Prepare like like Glazed Glazed salmon salmon au au (see SALMON). chambertin chambertin (see SALMON).

TROYES-- See TROYES See CHEESE. CHEESE. TRUELLE. TROWEL TRUELLE. rRowEL -- Spatula Spatula with with aa curved curved handle handle similar similar to to aa mason's trowel, trowel, used used to pastries. to serve serve fish fish and and pastries. TRUFFLAGE TRUFFLAGE-- Term Term for for adding pieces of adding pieces of truffie truffie to to chicken chicken game. or or game.

TRLJFFLE. TRUFFE TRUFFLE. TRUFFE -- Subterranean Subterranean fungus fungus of of which which aa number of of varieties varieties exist. exist. The The black truffie trufre of of Périgord P6rigord and and that of of the Lot Lot are are the most highJy highly esteemed. esteemed. Truffl.es Trufles are are also also gathered in gathered in Dauphiné, Dauphin6, Burgundy Burgundy and and Nonnandy Normandy and and in in various other other regions of France, but of France, but ail all these these are are inferior inferior in in quality and and have a less less delicate delicate aroma. aroma. The The truffie grows at trufre that that grows at the the base 'trufle' oaks base of of 'trufHe' oaks isis gathered with gathered with the the assistance (more commonly assistance of pigs and of pigs and (more commonly nowadays) nowadays) by specially trained dogs. dogs. The white truffie of Piédmont Pi6dmont has garlic has aa slight slight flavour of of garlic which goes weil well with sorne some dishes. dishes. It is is most most often often eaten eaten raw, raw, cut in very thin s!ices. slices. To prepare truffies - Peel firffes for use poulty and use with pouJtry gameand game Peel the the truffies and and cut them in in quarters, or if they they are are small, small, leave leave them whole. Season with salt, salt, pepper, thyme, and powdered and powdered bay leaf. Cook for 88 to to 10 l0 minutes in pork fat, which may may be be prepared in the mixed withfoie withfoie gras, gras, prepared the following following way: lb.) of (2tlb.) Pound 1I kg. (2i of fresh pork fat fat in aa mortar mortar with with the the truffies being being used. used. If trimmings of the the truffies If aa more more delicate delicate both fat andfoie mixture is desired add 250 mixture 250 g. (9 oz.)foie oz.)foie gras, both fatandfoie large dice. Season gras cut in large pepper and Season with salt, salt, pepper and aa pinch of of spice. Melt gently gently over heat and put through spice. over low low heat and put through aa fine fine strainer. The truffies, having been been cooked cooked in this truffied truffied fat, The fat, should should the bird. bird. be cooled cooled before before being being used used to 'truffle' 'trufre' the CONSERVE DE DE TRUFFES truffies. coNsERVE Tinned (canned) frrffes. TRUFFES -- Wash Wash the the them in warm water, water, and truffies, soak thern truffies, and scrub scrub them them under under fresh water. water. Peel Peel them, them, taking taking care care to to remove remove ail fresh all earth earth deposited in holes and and folds. deposited Season the the truffies with with very very fine fine salt salt mixed mixed with with spice spice and Season and pepper, and and leave leave them them in this this seasoning seasoning for for 22 hours. hours. pepper, 936

TRUFFLE TRUFFLE

Glazed salmon salmon trout trout au au chambertin chambertin Glazed

or in Champagne Champagne or truffies cooked cooked in customary to prepare truffies It It isis customary people peeling them, many people them, but but many wine without without peeling in any any other other wine in peel the truffies are cooked. cooked. truffies before before they they are to peel prefer to (in turnovers). EN CHAUSSONS cHAUssoNS rnunrrs EN en chaussons turnovers). TRUFFES Truffies en chaussons (in TrufHes spiced salt. salt. with spiced season with and season medium-sized truffies truffies and -- Peel Peel medium-sized place on circle and place on aa circle fat bacon in aa thin rasher of bacon and thin rasher of fat Wrap Wrap each each in water and and pastry with with water the pastry puffpastry. Moisten the the edges edges of of the of pastry. Moisten of puff make aa little little with egg, egg, make sheet, brush brush with Put on on aa baking baking sheet, fold fold over. over. Put 20 for 18 18 to to 20 in aa hot hot oyen oven for opening in the the centre centre and and bake bake in opening in minutes. minutes. ( I lb.) g. (1 lb.) 450 g. Stew 450 la crème. TRUFFES À A LA I-,c, CRÈME cniMr -- Stew TrufHes Truffies ài la crime. TRUFFES gently taking care not not to to peeled and taking care into th thin slices gently truffies in slices and cut cut into truffies peeled dry out. let let them them dry out. with aa !ittle little brandy. brandy. pepper. Sprinkle salt and and pepper. Sprinkle witb Season with salt Season with

Boil some Madeira wine, the truffie peelings Boil sorne wine, and and add add to it the and a pinch of salt. Coyer and leave to cool. cool. Strain. Strain. ofsalt. Cover and (lf pints, quart) tins. pints, generous generous quart) Put the truffies in in 1I litre litre (li Put the (+ pint, Pour over 3 dL pint, li the tins. tins. Put dl. (1 lf cups) cups) Madeira. Seal Seal the them in Id water. pot and in aa pot with co cold water. Set Set aa and coyer cover completely completely with weight on top to keep them covered and bring covered with the water water and bring to ou Id continue point, which which sb high boi!ing should continue without boiling point, to aa high interruption for to 21 water when for 2i 2tto 2j hours. Add more boiling water necessary. necessary. Remove from the heat and completely. and allow allow to cool cool completely. (can) which, Any 'blown', should should be be Any tin tin (can) which, after after boiling, boiling, isis 'blown', considered doubtful and and put under observation. observation. considered doubtful good handful Boiling point point can handful of of raised by adding aa good can be be raised by adding j litre (scant pint, salt 2* cups) pint,2t cups) tins, tins, allow allow to the the water. water. For 1 litre (scant salt to one glass jars with For glass with special special closures closures the the one and and aa half hours. hours. For cooking must not not be be taken takeh cooking time is is the the same. same. Jars Jars or or bottles bottles must from the water until quite quite cold. cold. They are then wrapped in straw thick layer layer of of They are wrapped in straw and and set set on on aa truck straw the pan. pan. in the bottom of ofthe straw placed in Truffies goose fat Freezing Truffies preserved in in goose fat are are also also excellent. excellent. Freezing in in no no way way affects affects the flavour flavour of truffies. of truffies. TrufHes Put Trufres witb with Champagne. TRUFFEs AU AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMpAcNE -- Put Champagne. TRUFFES well-cleaned large with, for for every every large truffies truffies in in aa deep deep saucepan saucepan with, 450 (1 lb.) truffies, (3 tablespoons) g. (lIb.) mirepoix 450 g. truffies, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) mirepoix of i (j pint,.l pint, lf Add 33 dL dl. (1 vegetables cooked cooked in in butter until until soft. soft. Add of vegetables cups) for 15 l5 minutes. minutes. cups) Champagne. Champagne. Season. Season. Cook, Cook, covered, covered, for Put pan truffies into with the the pan Put the the truffies into aa deep deep dish. dish. Sprinkle Sprinkle them them with juices boiled juices mixed with with aa few few boiled down down almost almost to to nothing nothing and and mixed tablespoons veal stock. stock. Coyer Cover the the dish dish and and tablespoons of of thick thick brown brown veal keep for 88 to to 10 l0 keep hot, hot, without without allowing allowing the the liquid liquid to to boil, boil, for minutes. minutes.

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Truflle. whole whole and Truflle, and cul cut open open (J, Boyer) \J. Boyer)

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TRUFFLE notnecessary necessarytotodo domore morethan thanheat heatthem themwith withthe thefood food ititisisnot they aretotoaccompany. accompany. the y are Trufreswith withMadeira Madeiraororother otherliqueur. liqueur.TRUFFES TRUFFEsAU TrufHes AUMADÈREMlotnn Proceedasasfor forTruffies Trffieswith withChampagne, Champagne.replacing replacingthe Proceed thelatter latter withMadeira Madeiraororother otherwine. wine. with Trufresà i lalamaréchale. mar6chale.TRUFFES rnurresÀALAla MARÉCHALE rraanEcHALE- TrufHes 'Remove the theskins (2*lb.) skinsfrom from1 Ikg. kg.(2i of scrubbedtruffies. 'Remove lb.) ofscrubbed truffies.Cut Cut themininthick thickround roundslices. slices. them 'Melt inina asaucepan saucepan a aquarter quarterofofbutter butterand pieceofof 'Melt anda apiece g)azethe chickenglaze thesize sizeofofananegg eggwith with22tablespoons chicken tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons)of ofMadeira. Madeira.Boil Boilaalittle littlebut butwithout withoutletting tablespoons) lettingitit catch.Sauté Saut6the thetruffies truffiesininit,it,and andafterwards afterwardslet catch. letthem steam themsteam for1010toto1212minutes. minutes.Sauté Saut6them themininaasecond secondtime for timeand andleave leave themagain, again, weil wellcovered. covered. Above Aboveail, them all,do donot notlet letthem themfry, fry,but but glazelightly. lightly. Add Add44tablespoons tablespoons (tcup) (*cup)fresh glaze freshbutter, burter,aadrop dropof of juiceand lemon juice andsorne some small small bread lemon breadcroûtons crottonsamounting amounting toto quantity of half the thequantity ofthe thetruffies truffiesand half andcut cuttotothe thesame samesize, fried size,fried butter. Mix Mix them them weil wellwith with the inin butter. the truffies truffiesand andserve.' serve.' (Plumerey's recipe.) recipe.) (Plumerey's Trufresininpastry pastry ài lalapérigourdine. pAr6ÀALA p6rigourdine.TRUFFES TrufHes TRUFFES EN nr.rPÂTÉ rl pErucounorNn - Prepare forTruffles PÉRIGOURDINE Trffiesenenchaussons, putting chaussons, putting - Prepare asasfor under the the truffies truffies small smallslices slicesof g,'arseasoned under of foie seasoned with with salt salt foie gras pepper. Cook and pepper. Cook ininthe theoven oven for and for18 l8 toto20 20minutes. minutes. puREE DE pure€. PURÉE Trufre purée. TrufHe DETRUFFES TRUFFEs- - Rub Rub250 250g.g.(9(9oz.) oz.)raw raw truffies through throughaa fine finesieve sieveand and add truffies add to pint,lilf cup) to 33dl. dl.(t$ pint, cup) thick Béchamel Bbchamel sauce (see SA sauce(see thick UCE) which SAUCE) which has has been been diluted diluted with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons fresh fresh cream. with cream. Season, Season, strain strainthrough through aa cloth, heat heat the pur6e and the purée and add cloth, add butter. butter. pur6e isis used Truffie purée used to tofill (patties), tartlets Truffie fill bouchées bouchtes (patties), tartlets and and other sma]] small preparations preparations of other of the the same same I<:ind, kind, or or toto stuff stuff vegetables, artichoke artichoke bottoms, vegetables, bottoms, mushrooms, mushrooms, etc. etc. Trufrs rissoles rissoles ài l'ancienne. TrufDe |tancienne. RISSOLES RrssolEs DE os TRUFFES rnuFrEs ÀA L'ANcTENNE -- Cut peeled truffies Cut large large peeled L'ANCIENNE truffies in in very very thick thick slices. slices. Season with with salt, salt, pepper pepper and Season and spices spices and and sprinkle sprinkle with with brandy. brandy. Leave to to soak soak for for an an hour. Leave hour. Fold each each truffie trufre slice Fold slice in piece of in aa piece of ordinary ordinary Brioche Brioche dough dough (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Fry Fry in (see in deep deep fat fat or or oil. oil. Drain Drain and and serve. serve. Truffie rissoles rissoles ài la TrufDe la Valromey. Valromey. RISSOLES RrssolEs DE os TRUFFES rnuFFEs ÀA LA LA, vALRoMEy -- Sandwich Sandwich together, VALROMEY together, two two by by two, two, thick thick s!ices slices of of truffie with aa slice truffie slice of gras in of foie in between. between. Season Season with with salt, salt. foie gras pepper and spices and and sprinkle sprinkle with with aa !ittle little brandy. brandy. on rounds ofpuffpastry Set on of puffpastry cut cut out with aa fiuted fluted cutter, cutter, aa larger in diameter little larger diameter than the truffies. Cover with rounds rounds of of pastry. Press the edges together. together.

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(Fauchon. Trufrles (Fauchon. Laroussel TfUflles Phol. Larousse)

Cover with with boiling boiling cream cream and and boil boil for for aa moment. moment. Drain Drain and and Cover put them them in in aa deep deep dish. dish. Boil Boil down down the the cream cream and and add add to to itit 2z put or 33 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons tablespoons ortcup) orfcup) Béchamel Bichamel sauce (see sauce (see or SAUCE). Add Add butter, butter, season, season, strain strain through through aa cloth, cloth, then then SAUCE). pour, boiling boiling hot, hot, over over the truffies. the truffies. pour, Truffies cooked cooked in in embers. embers. TRUFFES TRUFFEs SOUS sous LA cENDRE -_ LA CENDRE TrufDes Season large, large, cleaned cleaned truffies truffies with pepper and with salt, salt, pepper and spices, spices, and and Season sprinkle with with aa little little brandy. brandy. Wrap Wrap each each in in aa very very thin thin bard bard of of sprinkle fat bacon, bacon, then then in greaseproof paper, in greaseproof paper, sealing sealing them fhem into into the the fat paper by sticking the edges together withrepbre (a of paper by sticking the edges together with repère (a mixture of flour and and egg eggwhite). flour white). Put the wrapped truffies trumes into into aa tourtière (metal pie tourtibre (metal pie dish dish or or Put the wrapped tin on hot ashes mixed mixed with with glowing glowing embers. Cover tin plate) plate) on hot ashes with and embers. embers. with cinders cinders and Cook for 40 40 to 45 minutes. minutes. Cook the the truffies truffies in in the the cinders cinders for to 45 Remove serve as Remove from from the the paper paper and and serve as they they are. It at least, It is is difficult difficult nowadays nowadays to to find find houses, houses, in in towns at where consequently, trufres where there there are are wood wood fires fires and and where, where, consequently, truffies could cooked in in this this way. way. We We have have nevertheless nevertheless included could be be cooked this rather this rather archaic archaic recipe recipe because because itit might might possibly possibly be used in country country places. places. The The title title truffes truffes sous sous Ia la cendre cendre is is also also given given to to truffies cooked cooked in in aa pie. pie. Trufre BEIGNETS DE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES - Cut Cut peeled peeled trufles truffies in TrufDe fritters. fritters. BETcNETs thick thick slices. slices. Soak Soak them them for for an an hour hour in in brandy, brandy, salt, pepper, pepper, thyme and powdered powdered bay bay leaf. leaf. thyme and Dip Dip the the slices slices in in light light batter batter and and fry fry in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Trufres Truffles for for garnish. garnish. TRUFFES TRUFFES pouR POUR cARNrrune GARNITURE -- According According to to the the type type of of dish dish to to be be garnished, garnished, the the truffies truffies are are cut, cut, afte; after being being peeled, peeled, into into slices, slices, dice, dice, quarters, quarters, or or oval oval shapes shapes to to look look like like olives. olives. Cook them gently in butter butter for for aa few few minutes minutes only, only, until until _ Cook them gently in they they are are just just cooked cooked and and no no more. more. Trufles, Truffies, especially especially when when cut cut into into small small pieces pieces or or slices, slices, must must not not be be dried dried out out in in cooking. cooking. Moisten wine appropriate Moisten with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of ofwine appropriate to to the the dish dishto tobe begarnished garnished and and keep keep hot hot without without boiling. boi!ing. In Inprinciple, principle, truffies truffies used used for for garnish garnish should should cook cook with with the the food accompany, and and should should be be put put into into the the food they they are are to to accompany, saucepan saucepanwith withitittowards towardsthe theend end of ofthe thecooking cookingtime. time. Instead Instead of offresh fresh truffies, truffies, whose whose season season only only lasts lasts for for aa few few months months in in winter, winter, tinned tinned truffes truffles may may be be used. used. When Wh en using using these haveusually usuallybeen beencooked cooked twice twice already, already, thesetruffies, truffies,which which have

C1eaningtruftles tfuflles Cleaning (French Government Governmem Tourist Tourisi Ofice) Office) (French

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TRUFFLE quantity of and veal and fresh bacon and the same fillet of bacon fat, and same quantity offillet ofveal carrots and heat in in butter in in a a saucepan, adding chopped carrots leal of thyme, bay leaf, onions, sprigs of parsley parsley and little pieces of basil, half a clove of garlic and two cloves. Season with very grated nutmeg and pepper, grated and a pinch of spice. little salt, white pepper, pour in two When these ingredients begin to colour lightly, pour in two sparkling Champagne. Bring to the boil, skim and of sparkling Champagne. Bring bottles of gently on without boiling down; then boiling down; on the stove, simmer sim mer gently the st ove, without for trufles for strain, using using pressure, over the truffies. Cook the truffies gently for three quarters an hour before serving. Allow Allow to boil gently before serving. fire and and keep keep very very hot, the fire then take take off the of an an hour, of hour, then hot, but serving, drain the truffies without boiling. At the moment of serving, silver dish, coyering napkin on a silver arrange them in a folded napkin and arrange them table very hot.' (Plumerey's order to send them to the table them in order recipe.) pETITS SOUFFLÉS DE TRUFFES TRUFFEs -- These These sourrl-Es DE trufre soufflés. souffies. PETITS Small truffle SmaJJ hors-d'euvre, served as a hot hors-d' souffi6s, served souffiés, œuvre, are made like ordinary (q.v.), using purée pur6e oftruffies souffi6s (q.v.), of truffies bound with egg yolks, to souffiés stifry beaten egg whites are added. Put into cassolettes cassolettes which stiffiy ordinary way. and cook in the oven in the ordinary DE TRUFFES Line aa shallow tnffes. TIMBALE TTMBALE DE TRUFFEs -- Line Timbale of trufHes. (see paste (see with Ordinary lining paste mould with Ordinary Iining timbale mould buttered buttered timbale with thin of thin strips of and sides sides with DOUGH). Cover the bottom and DOUGH). (j inch) of peeled fat. Fill to within 10 l0 mm. (1 of the top with peeled bacon fat. pepper and with salt, salt, pepper and spices spices and raw truffies truffies seasoned seasoned with raw sprinkled with brandy. (4 glass of tablespoons (4 Moisten with with aa glass of Madeira Madeira and and 33 tablespoons Moisten very concentrated veal stock. stock. Cover Cover the the tablespoons) very concentrated brown veal tablespoons) pastry. with pastry. fat and the the timbale timbale with of bacon fat truffies with a bard ofbacon 55 minutes. minutes. Turn Turn 50 to 55 Brush with egg. Cook in aa hot oven 50 serve. out the timbale and serve. perigourdine. TOURTE rounrn DE or TRUFFES rRurrns ÀA LA ur Truffie tourte ài la la périgourdine. TrufHe pfnrcounorNr -- Spread a layer ooffjo cut in in large large dice dice on on PÉRIGOURDINE ie gras cut foie (see DOUGH) DOUGH) set tray, set on on aa baking baking tray, aa round of Lining paste (see l0 mm. mm. (1 inch) of of the the edge. edge. the pastry to to within within 10 covering the $ inch) pepper and with with salt, salt, pepper and spices, spices, and and sprinkle sprinkle with Season Season with brandy. peeled truffies. with salt, salt, Top with with scrubbed scrubbed anô and peeled truffies. Season Season with Top pepper and with brandy. Place small small and spices, spices, and and sprinkle sprinkle with brandy. Place pepper gras on the truffies. truffies. slices of seasoned seasonedfoie on the slices foie gras pastry and the edges. Decorate with aa round of of pastry and seal seal the edges. Decorate Cover with pastry. Make with cut-out Make aa small small opening opening the top with cut-out shapes shapes of of pastry. with egg. middle to to allow to escape. escape. Brush Brush with egg. Cook Cook in the middle allow steam steam to few tablespoons hot oven 40 to 45 minutes. mirnrtes. Pour Pour in in aa few tablespoons in in aa hot oven 40 to 45 (see SAUCE) down with with Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE) boiled Demi-glace boiled down Demi-glace sauce (see ESSENCE). ESSENCE). and and Truffie Truffie essence essence (see is served aux truffes served hot hot or cold. Tourte Tourte aux truffes is or cold.

Fry, arrange in a mould and garnish with fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with Pbrigueux Périgueux sauce sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE).

Tnffe Truffle salad. salado sluoE SALADE DE TRUFFEs TRUFFES - Made with raw truffies, julienne, when or cut in aajulienne, when truffies are in season, but chopped or made with preserved trufles. truffies. usually made They They are are usually usually mixed mixed either either with with sliced sliced boiled boiled potatoes, potatoes, or (impiratr ice salad). chopped chopped artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms (impératrice Truffie salad salad is is seasoned seasoned with oil, lemon juice, juice, salt salt and pepper, pepper, and should not be flavoured with the aromatic aromatic herbs other salads. salads. often used with other TrufHe sauce. sauce. sAUcE SAUCE AUx AUX TRUFFES - Sim mer aa very black Trufle TRUFFES Simmer fresh truffie in half Madeira wine, half rich beef stock for fresh 10 minutes. Remove Remove the truffie and dice it. Cover the about l0 pan pan tightly and reduce the liquid liquid to a few teaspoonsful. teaspoonsful. Add 2 g. (7 oz., yolks of of egg egg and the diced truffie. Thicken Thicken with 200 g. generous generous i cup) clarified butter butter as for a Btarnaise Béarnaise sauce (see "rrp) salt pepper. This sauce Add salt and ground pepper. and freshly ground SAUCE). Add makes an excellent accompaniment to to poached poached fish, fish, white an excellent makes (Recipe given by chef Lauris asparagus. (Recipe chef Denis of meats and Lauris 'Chez 'Chez Denis', Paris.). Sauté Brillat-Savarin. SAUTÉ TRUFFES BRILLATSaut6 oftru6:les of trufres Brillat-Savarin. slurf DE TRUFFES SAVARIN sAVARIN -- Peel 12 perfectly ripe, black, firm large truffies. Cut pepper each into into thick thick slices. Season freshly ground pepper Season with with salt, freshly and spice. spice. quail fat, in quail A few few minutes minutes before serving, serving, sauté saut6 them them in A taking care care not to fry them. taking them. Drain, and set them in a low crust of puffpastry. puff pastry. of juices with Dilute the cooking juices add aa little Dilute the with Madeira, Madeira, add pour over concentrated veaJ down, and over the the and pour veal stock, stock, boil boil down, truffies. Sauté provençale. TRUFFES u, of trufHes la provengale. rnurrns SAUTÉES slur6rs ÀA LA Saut6 of truffies ài la pRovENgALE -- Peel PROVENÇALE in thick slices. and cut cut them in Peel the truffies and Season Season with salt and pepper. Sauté tablespoons of hot olive Saut6 for a few moments in a few tablespoons garlic. A oil void over-cooking, an unpeeled Avoid over-cooking, with an unpeeled clove clove of garlic. oil with which makes truffies tough. TrufHes rRUrrES À A LA la SERVIETTE ssRvlntrn -- This dish is Trufres ài la serviette. TRUFFES so in the the in aa napkin folded either in so called called because it is served served in 'artichoke' or 'portfolio' style. or'portfolio' Cook in in Madeira, in aa deep dish cassolettes, and and Madeira, set in dish or in cassolettes, present on or under a folded napkin.

White truffies truffies BLANcHES -- White WHITE WHITE TRUFFLES. TRUFFLES. TRUFFES rnurrss BLANCHES principally from from Piedmont, Piedmont, come North of Italy, principally of Italy, from the the North come from in found in They are are also also found and called Piedmont Piedmont truffies. truffies. They and are are called these are are France, but but these North and in in sorne some regions regions of of France, North Africa Africa and in aroma aroma or or unlike from Italy, Italy, either either in those which which come come from unlike those texture. texture. garlic, isis eaten eaten The white truffie, which has has aa slight slight taste taste of of garlic, The white trufle, which garnish for for hot hot raw, is used used as as aa garnish thin slices. slices. When When itit is in thin raw, cut cut in not dishes the cooking, cooking, and and isis not at the very end end of ofthe the very added at dishes itit isis added food itit accomaccomcooked heat of of the the food itself other other than than by by the the heat cooked itself blanches, panies. way with with risotto risotto aux aux truffes truffes blanches, panies. It It isis used in this this way used in when finished. cooking isis completely completely finished. when cooking garnish White slices are are used used to to garnish truffies cut cut in in dice dice or or thin thin slices White truffies egg eggs, being being notably omelettes and scrambled scrambled eggs, dishes, notably omelettes and egg dishes, put, raw, are put, raw, added are cooked; cooked; they they are after the the scrambled scrambled eggs eggs are added after into the omelettes. making the omelettes. into the the beaten beaten egg egg before before making with The in salad, salad, seasoned seasoned with truffie isis most most often often used used in white trufHe The white juice, salt pepper. olive salt and and pepper. lemon juice, olive oil, oil, lemon White Rlsotto -- Cover Cover TRUFFEs BLANCHES BLANcHEs AU AU RISOTTO White truffle trufle risotto. risotto. TRUFFES aa Parmesan white truffies, truffies, dish with with white risotto, set set in in aa deep deep dish Parmesan risotto,

Truflles (Larousse) la serviette Truffies àd la serviette (Larousse)

Truffles ra rRurrrs ÀA LA cooked in in Cbampagne. Champagte. TRUFFES Trufres àdr la la serviette serviette cooked pounds of of 'Take three three pounds - 'Take truffies, you can firm and and smooth, firm round, smooth, the biggest can find, find, round, trufles, the biggest you very are waters. When When they they are in two two or or three three waters. black. Scrub Scrub them them in very black. weil place them in aa saucepan lined with with bards bards offat of fat saucepan Iined them in well drained, drained, place bacon in the same way. way. and cover cover them them in the same bacon and 'Cut pound of ham which which has has been 'Cut in in large dice dice aa pound of ham desalted been desalted

SERVIETTE vIN DE AU VIN DE CHAMPAGNE cHAMpAcNE sERvIETTE AU

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TRUFFLE TRUFFLE peeled, peeled, cut into thin slivers and and seasoned. Keep hot hot for 55 minutes of the the stove. st ove, covered. covered. minutes on a corner of Saut6 Sauté of of Piedmont Piedmont trufles. trufftes. seurf SAUTÉ DE TRUFFES TRUFFES DU DU prfMoNr PIÉMONT 'Take 'Take a dozen dozen Piedmont Piedmont truffies, truffles, well weil scrubbed; remove remove the

skin carefully and cut them them into very thin rounds. Dissolve glazethesize chicken of an an egg egg in in 44 tablespoons tablespoons (*cup) (tcup) hot oil chicken glaze the size of on low heat. Put in in the the truffies truffles and and season with with a a white white pepper, pepper, salt and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Cover, Coyer, and cook cook over good heat for l0 10 minutes, minutes, tossing them often (they need no more juice of cooking). fresh butter, cooking). Add Add aa few few pieces pieces of offresh butter, the thejuice of half half a lemon, lem on, and and serve. serve. 'In 'In PariS Paris the the oil is is replaced replaced by butter, but oil is the true stamp stamp of of the the Italian ltalian manner. manner. 'Some 'Sorne noblemen noblemen like like to to cook cook Piedmont Piedmont truffies truffles themselves. themselves. This is how they they are are prepared: prepared: Chop the the truffies truffles with with a cucumber cucumber slicer. slicer. Put Put in in aa silver silver casserole casserole aa few few spoonfuls olive oil oil or or butter, butter, according according to to taste, taste, and some sorne good good glaze glaze the the size size of of an an egg egg cut cut into into small pieces. Place Place the the truffies truffles on top top with with some sorne salt, salt, white white pepper pepper and and grated nutmeg. nutmeg. Sprinkle Sprinkle a few drops drops of of oil over over the the truffies, truffles, or or set aa few few pieces pieces of of fine fine butter on on top. top. 'The 'The casserole, casserole, its its lid Iid in in place, place, isis set set on on top top of of aa spirit spirit heat-er, heaier, set of the the host, host, who who with with the the aid aid of of aa spoon spoon set alight, alight, set set in in front front of turns tu ms the the truffies truffles frequently, frequently, replacing replacing the the lid lid of of the the casserole casserole each each time. time. 'Seven 'Seven to to eight eight minutes minutes are are enough enough for the the cooking. cooking. The seigneur seigneur adds adds the the juice juice of a lemon and and serves his his guests.' guests.' (Plumerey's (Plumerey's recipe). recipe).

Trumpet Trumpet fish

legs are left outside; outside; for braising, poaching poaching or pot-roasting pot-roasting the the end bones are are worked under under the skin. Before game should should be be dressed dressedBefore being being trussed, trussed, poultry and game that that is, plucked, cleaned c1eaned and singed. HUPPE - A A kind kind of lark lark whose whose flesh HUppE sometimes sometimes has has a musky flavour. flavour. It lt is cooked cooked in the same same way

TLIITED TUFTED LARK. LARK. aslark. as lark.

TUILBS TUILES (rrrrrs (PETITS FouRs) FOURS) -- Cream Cream together in a bowl250 bowl 250 g. (8 oz., I1 cup) butter butter and 250 g. (8 oz., I1 cup) fine sugar. Add 55 oz., 2 cups) cups) sifted flour. Pipe the eggs, one by one, 250 g. (8 o2.,2 mixture mixture on on to a baking baking tin in rounds with with the aid of of a forcing forcing bag. Bake Bake in the the oven. oyen. bag. When ready, ready, bend bend each one over a rolling rolling pin to give the of curved trles tiles (tuiles). (tuiles). shape of Tuiles Tuiles with with almonds. TUTLEs TUILES AUx AUX AMANDES AMANDES -- Mix Mix together together in bowl 250 g. (8 oz., I1 cup) ground almonds, 250 250 g. (8 oz., I1 a bowl cup) sugar and 4 egg whites. Flavour Flavour with vanilla vanilla essence essence or cup) eggwhites. any other other flavouring. flavouring. Pipe Pipe on on to a baking baking tin and bake bake in the any oyen. Finish Finish offas off as above. above. oven.

TRUFFLE TRUFFLE (To). (To). rnurrnn TRUFFER -- To garnish garnish or or stuffwith stuff with truffies. truffles. Used studding aa foodstuff Used also also to to describe describe the the action action of ofstudding foodstuffwith with small small pieces pieces of of truffie. truffle.

TULIP. TULIP. ruLIpE TULIPE -- There are a great many many different different kinds of but only one, one, the the 'wild tulip', a plant growing in the tulip but is edible. The root root is is eaten, and may may be be South of France, is

TRUIE TRUIE DE DE MER MER -- A A French French name na me generally generally given given to to aa fish fish called rascasse. called rascasse.

TRLIMPET TRUMPET FISH. FISH. s6cAsss BÉCASSE DE DE MER MER -- This This fish fish is is also also called called voilier voilier porte-glaive porte-glaive (sword-bearer (sword-bearer sailfish) sailfish) because because of its its

prepared prepared like like Jerusalem Jerusalem artichoke artichoke or or sweet sweet potato. potato.

lance-like jaw. jaw. lanceJike The The trumpet trumpet fish fish attains attains 22 to to 33 metres metres (6 (6 to to 99 feet) feet) in in length. length. Its lts flesh flesh isis mediocre. mediocre. Prepare Prepare as as for for tunny tunny fish fish (see (see TUNNY). TUNNY).

TUN. r0r FÛT -- Cask Cask large large enough enough to to hold hold several hogs hogs heads. TUN.

TRUSS. TRUSS. BRIDER BRIDER -- To To thread thread aa string string to to secure secure the the legs legs and and wings wings of of poultry poultry and and game, game, with with the the aid aid of of aa strong strong needle needle called called aa trussing trussing needle. needle. poultry and The The trussing trussing of ofpoultry and game game isis done done in in different different ways, ways, depending depending on on the the nature nature of ofthe the finished finished dish. dish. For For roasting, roasting, the the

ItIt lives lives in in the the wann warm parts parts of of the the Atlantic Atlantic and and the Mediterranean, and and is is scarcely scarcely ever ever found found beyond beyond the the Bay Bay of Mediterranean, Biscay. Biscay. Many Many species of of tunny, tunny, all ail related related to to the the mackerel mackerel family, family, are are found found off off both both the the Atlantic Atlantic and and Pacific Pacific coasts coasts of the United United States. States. The The white white tunny tunny or or germaz germon isis found found as as high high the

TUNNY (IIJNA (TUNA FISH). rHoN THON

large, -- A large,

strong, spindle-

shaped fish fish found found in in warm warm and temperate temperate seas. seas. shaped

Removing Removing lui/es from from tuiles the baking baking the tray tray (Desmeuzes) (Desmeuzes)

Bending the the Bending lui/es over over tuiles rolling pin pin aa rolling (Larousse) (Larousse)

940 940

TURBOT TURBOT (see as for for Brill Turbot Turbot ià I'amfual l'amiral -- Prepare Prepare as Brill àd /'I'amiral amiral (see

as the the coast coast of of Brittany. Brittany. This This is is similar similar to to the the albacore albacore of of the as atNice Pacific. The The thonine, thonine, which which isis called called the the thouna thouna at Nice and and the Pacific.

BRILL).

(see Bercy (see Ia Bercy as for for Brill Prepare as Turbot ià la la Bercy -- Prepare Brill àit la

thounina at at Sdte, Sète, isis found found only only in in the the Mediterranean. Mediterranean. It never thounina grows grows to to more more than than I1 metre metre (3 (3 feet) feet) in in length and and is fished in of Nice Nice from from May May to to October. Its Its flesh fiesh is firm, oily the region region of the and savoury savoury and and has has some sorne resemblance resemblance to veal. Tunny is and eaten fresh, fresh, salted, salted, smoked smoked or or canned canned in in oil. eaten Tunny à la provengale. provençale. rnoN THON A À I.l LA pnovrNgll-rPROVENÇALE- Stud Tunny (tuna) (tuna) ila round cut cut of of tunny tunny with with anchovy fillets. fiJJets. Marinate Marinate it in oil, aa round and pepper pepper for an hour. Colour Colour the fish on lemon juice, juice, salt and lemon both sides in hot hot oil in a saut6 sauté pan. Add Add a chopped onion both lightly cooked cooked in in butter butter (or (or oil), oi!), 2 peeled, seeded and crushed lightly and a large tomatoes, a small sm ail clove of garlic, garlic, also crushed, crushed, and large (+ pint, $ cup) bouquet garni. garni. Pour over 1+ 11- dl. dl. (! cup) white white wine. bouquet Finish cooking cooking in the oven, oyen, basting often. Finish

BRrLL). BRILL).

BoUILLI --Latge TURBoT BOUILLI sauces. TURBOT Boiled turbot turbot with various sauces. Large (like salmon) are salmon) are darnes (like chunks or darnes turbots, turbots, whole, or cut into chunks slices with slices and water, water, with milk and of salted milk cooked cooked in a court-bouillon ofsalted quart) of generous quart) (Ifi pints, pints, generous of litre (li Allow to to each litre of lemon. Allow (2+ g. (2115 g. milk, 15 (6 tablespoons, scant 1-I cup) milk, dl. (6 tablespoons, scant water: water: I1 dl. "op) peeled lemon. lemon. slice of peeled teaspoons) salt and one slice teaspoons) turbot head of of the the turbot prevent damage during cooking, the head To prevent (a fish kettle specially specially fish kettle It is put into the the turbotière turbotibre (a can be tied. It grid so more can more so that that itit can the grid using the to cook cook turbot), using shaped to cold enough cold Pour over over enough when cooked. cooked. Pour removed when be removed easily be easily to liquid begins begins to soon as as the the liquid cover the fish. As soon court-bouillon to coyer leave and leave the stove stove and corner of of the to aa corner turbotiire to removethe boil, remove the turbotière (6 minutes lb). to every every lb). minutes to 12 minutes per kg. (6 to poach, allowing 12 garnish with with large dish, and and garnish set on on aa largedish, the fish, set and wipe thefish, Drain and Drain potatoes and and one one with boiled boiled potatoes Serve with fresh parsley in bunches. Serve fish. for boiled fish. sauces suitable suitable for or other of the sauces bonne for Brill Brill àd la la bonne as for Prepare as femme -- Prepare la bonne bonne femme Turbot ài la Turbot (see BRILL). BRILL). femme femme (see ruRBor garnishes and and sauces. sauces. TURBOT turbot with with various various garnishes Braised turbot Braised pieces or filleted, isis braised braised in pieces or filleted, cut in left whole, whole, cut Turbot left BRAISÉ nnlrrsi -- Turbot given for Braised brill brill fot Braised ways given in any of the the ways red wine, wine, in any of white or or red in white in (see BRILL). BRILL). (see pieces or or cut in in pieces whole, cut Turbot left left whole, la cancalaise cancalaise -- Turbot Turbot ài la Turbot set itit on on aa the fish, fish, set Drain the wine. Drain in white white wine. cooked in filleted, filleted, cooked de-bearded poached, drained drained and and de-bearded garnish with with poached, dish, garnish serving serving dish, (see sauce (see Normande sauce with Normande crayfish. Coat Coat with and shelled shelled crayfish. oysters oysters and added' been added. oysterliquorhas the strained strained oyster to which which the SAUCE) liquor has been SAUCE) to in cut in or turbot turbot cut Whole turbot turbot or FRoID -- Whole TURBoT FROID Cold turbot. TURBOT Cold turbot. served cold. cold. may be be served or darnes darnes may chunks chunks or for suitable for cold sauces sauces suitable of the the cold by one one of It accompanied by It isis accompanied Verte, Rimoulade, Verte, Tartare, Rémoulade, Mayonnaise, Tartare, cold such as as Mayonnaise, fish, such cold fish, (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Gribiche, etc. (see Gribiche, etc. with parsley, or surrounded with garnished with or surrounded fresh parsley, Served with fresh Served garnished (see fish (see for cold cold fish garnishes recommended recommended for one the garnishes of the one of GARNISHES). GARNISHES). AUGRATINcRATIN gratin. TURBOT rl CRÈME cnirr{s AU TURBoT ÀA LA Creamed twbot au au gratin. Creamed turbot au cod au like Creamed Creamedcod turbot like left-over turbot Prepare with sliced sliced left-over Prepare with (see COD). gratin gratin (see COD).

t

fish and and set on a a dish. with the the conset on dish. Coyer Cover with Drain the fish (see centrated cooking cooking liquor liquor to to which aalittle little Espagnole Espagnole sauce (see centrated

SAUCE) and and some sorne capers capers have have been been added. Instead of added. Instead SAUCE) thickening the sauce with espagnole, espagnale, aa spoonful of Kneaded thickening may be used (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound butters). butter may butter TURBAN -- Word much used in French cookery to to describe TLTRBAN sorne foods are arranged circle. arranged on aa dish in a circle. the way some me word is is used used to describe certain preparations, The sa same

mostly forcemeat, forcemeat, which which are in border border moulds. mostly are cooked cooked in Turbans of of fish, fish, various kinds of poultry, game, game, etc., can be etc., can made in this way.

Turbot, white side Turbot. white side

TURBOT most delicate delicate of the the most flat fish, fish, one one of European fiat Large European TURBOT -- Large of kind. its kind. of its The such has such and has body, and lozenge-shaped body, The turbot turbot has has aa lozenge-shaped minute the are on on the Its eyes eyes are need not not be removed. Its scales they they need be removed. minute scales left dotted yellowish-grey or or brown, brown, dotted of its body, which isis yellowish-grey side ofits body, which left side with On the the white. On The other side isis white. marks. The other side and white white marks. with black black and grey gives the the which gives tubercles which grey or the conical conical tubercles or brown brown side side the turbot Turbot piquant are found.Turbot are to to be be found. its name name of of turbot turbot piquant turbot its double Its sides.Its skin on on both bothsides. has coloured coloured skin which has species which double isis aa species fiesh mediocre. flesh isis mediocre. The (16to to to1I m. m.(16 41 cm. cm. to from 41 normal size size of of the the turbot turbot isisfrom The normal 32 savoury. flaky and and savoury. white, firm, firm, fiaky inches). Its Its fiesh flesh isis white, 32 inches). The in French, French, belongs belongs called turbot turbot lisse ft'ssein brill, sometimes sometimes called The brill, to family. same family. to the the same Small-sized English, turbot inin English, as chicken chicken turbot known as turbots, known Small-sized turbots, are wayasas the same sameway Theyare cookedininthe in French. French. They arecooked are turbotins turbotins in ordinary turbot. ordinary turbot. Turbot américaine Brillàit/'l'amtricaine Prepare as as for for Brill l'am6ricaine -- Prepare Turbot ài l'américaine (see (see BRILL). BRILL).

Turbot TurbotDuglére Dugl6r6

(seeBASS). Turbot BASS). forBass .BacsDugléré Duglhrd(see Dugl6r6- -Prepare Prepareasasfor TrnbotDugléré Fillets raw, Turbotisisfilleted filletedraw, DETURBOT TURBoT- -Turbot Filletsofofturbot. trnbot. FILETS FILETSDE and fishshould should be bechosen. chosen. andmedium-sized medium-sized fish Ali givenfor preparation given sole forfiJiets filletsof ofbrill brillororsole methodsof ofpreparation Allmethods are filletof ofturbot. turbot. areapplicable applicable totofillet

941

TURBOTIERE TURBOTIÈRE Fried turbot. ruRBor FRrr - Only very small turbots, fillets Fried turbot. TURBOT FRIT -- Only very small turbots, fillets or darnes are fried (see BRILL, Fried brill'). or darnes are fried (see BRILL, Fried brill). However, Brillat-Savarin, who in lnis Twetfth Meditation in his Twelfth Meditation However, Brillat-Savarin, who devoted a long study to frying, assures his readers that it is to frying, assures his readers that it is devoted a long study possible to fry very large turbots. possible to fry very large turbots. Turbot fried ininbatter. batter.FRITOT FRrrorDE DETURBOT TURBoT - - Cut CutfiUeted filleted Turbot fried turbot into 'matchsticks'. Soakthese thesefor for30 30minutes minutes ininoil, oil, turbot into 'matchsticks'. Soak lemon juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. lemon juice, chopped parsley, salt and pepper. Before serving, dip them one by one, into light batter and them one by one, into light batter and Before serving, dip fry them in hot deep fat or oil. Drain, wipe, and season with deep fat or oil. Drain, wipe, and season with fry them in hot fine dry salt. Serve heaped on a dish and garnish with fried Serve heaped on a dish and garnish with fried fine dry salt. parsley and lemon. Serve with Tomato sauce (seeSAUCE). lemon. Serve with Tomato sauce (see SAUCE). parsley and Turbot au gratin - Prepared whole if they are small fish, or Turbot au gratin - Prepared whole if they are sm ail fish, or cut in pieces large. Prepare as for So/e au gratin. cut in pieces ifif large. Prepare as for Sole au gratin. Grilled turbot. turbot. TURBOT ruRBor GRILLÉ cnrrli -- Chicken Chicken turbot turbot or or turturGrilled prepared in this way. Large turbots can also be botins are botins are prepared in this way. Large turbots cao aJso be grilled, cut into thickish darnes or filleted. ioto thickish darnes or filleted. grilled, cut Grilled turbot turbot isis accompanied accompanied either either by by Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel Grilled butter, or or by by one one of of the the sa sauces usually served served with grilled fish with grilled fish uces usually buller, (see BUTTER, Compound butters; SAUCE). Compound bUllers; SAUCE). (see BUTTER, Cook the the turbot turbot in in the the same same way (see way as as Grilled Grilted brill brill (see Cook BRILL). BRILL). Turbot kedgeree. kedgeree. CADGERY cADGERv DE DE TURBOT ruRBor -- Cut Cut 450 450 g.g. (l(l lb.) lb.) Turbot cooked turbot turbot in in small small slices. slices. Heat Heat in in butter. butter. Set Set in in aa deep deep dish dish cooked in layers, layers, alternating alternating with (l lb.) with 450 450 g. g. (1 lb.) Rice pitaf (see PILAF) Rice pilaf(see ttlnf; in prepared in in the the usual usual way way but but not not too too much much cooked, cooked, and and prepared bound with (scant pint, with 55 dl. dl. (scant pint, 2f cups) cups) thin thin Béchamel B1chamel sauce (see sauce (see bound SAUCE) seasoned seasoned with with curry. curry. Sprinkle Sprinkle diced diced hard hard boiled boiled SAUCE) eggs over over each each layer layer of of turbot. turbot. Coat Coat the the last last layer layer of rice with of rice with eggs the same same sauce. sauce. the Turbot or or chicken chicken turbot turbot en en matelote matelote -- Cut Cut the the turbot turbot into into Turbot pieces. Prepare as Sole en matelote d la normande (see regular pieces. Prepare as Sole en matelote à la normande (see regular soLE). SOLE). Set on on aa dish dish and garnish with and garnish with crayfish, crayfish, fried fried smelts smelts and and Set cro0tons. croûtons.

addthick thickfresh freshcream, cream,boil boildown, down,add addbutter, butter,strain strainand pour andpour add overthe thefish. fish.Glaze Glazeweil wellininthe theoyen. oven.Garnish Garnishwith withfried lried over scallopsset setinina amound moundatateach eachend endofofthe thedish. dish. scallops Turbotà drlalaSaint SaintMalo Malo- -This Thismethod methodisissuitable suitablefor forsmall small Turbot fish. fish. Makeshallow shallow cuts cutson onboth bothsides, sides,season seasonwith withsalt saltand Make and puton pepper, brush brushwith withoil grillgently. oiland gently.Put andgrill ona aserving servingdish. pepper, dish. Surroundwith withboiled potatoescutinto boiledpotatoes thickslices slicesand cut intothick andfried friedinin Surround butter.Garnish Garnishwith withfresh parsley.Serve freshparsley. Servewith withSaint-Malo Saint-Malo butter. (seeSAUCE). sauce(see SAUCE). sauce Scalloped turbot. turbot.COQUILLES coetnI.I.Es DE DETURBOT ruRBor- - Prepared Preparedwith with ScaIloped left-over turbot turbotlike likeBrill Brillininscallop (seeBRILL). scallopshells shells(see BRILL). left-over Turbotài lalavenitienne venitienne- - Prepare Prepareasasfor forFillets Filletsof ofsole Turbot soleàhlala (seeSOLE). venitienne(see SOLE). venitienne Turbot Victoria Victoria -- Prepare Prepareasasfor (see forBrill BrillàdlalaVictoria Victoria(see Turbot BRrLL). BRILL). Turbot ininwhite white wine. wine.TURBOT ruRsor AU AUVIN vrNBLANC BLANc- -Prepare Preparewith Turbot with the turbot turbot left leftwhole, whole,ininchunks chunksor orininfillets, fillets"like likeBrill Briltininwhite the white (see BRILL). wine (see BRILL). wine

2i

Tu(bolière (Dehil/erin. Phol. Larousse)

'"'y;:'il?:I::;'',

Turbot ài la pilerine -- Season la pèlerine Season the the turbot turbot with with salt salt and and Turbot pepper. on aa baking baking tin tin lined, lined, for for aa fish (4 lb.) fish of of 2 kg. kg, (4Ib.) pepper. Put Put it it on with 150 g. generous cup) oz., generous cup) chopped chopped onion onion cooked coolied until until with 150 g. (5 (5 oz., tender colouring. tender in in butter butter without without colouring. place Sprinkle gently in in the the oyen. oven. Place Sprinkle with with melted melted butter. butter. Cook Cook gently in with white wine, an ovenproof ovenproof dish. dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with in an

TURBOTITRE-- Square-shaped Square-shaped fish TURBOTIÈRE provided with fish kettle, kettle, provided with aa grid called called turbotière, turbotiire, chiefiy removable grid chiefly used used for for cooking cooking and other other fiat flat fish. turbot and TUREEN. SOUPIÈRE soupdnr TUREEN. served.

Soup Souptureens: tureens: Above, left to10righr.. 8th c€ntury Aboye.tefl righl: I 18th cenlury silver silvertureens lureensand and Empire EmpirestylB style

tureen lureen Side , left to Side.tefl 10righr.. righl:porcelain porcelain tureen Tientsin ( (Rouard) Rouardl lureenofofTienlsin and Rouen fai'ence and Rouen faïencetureen tureen

(Roiardl (Roliard)

942 942

Broad, deep deep dish dish in in which which soup soup isis - Broad,

-

TURKEY TURKEY In In French the word dindon dindon (turkey-cock) (turkey-cock) is scarcely ever

was not not until until the the eighteenth eighteenth century century that that the the tureen tureen made made ItIt was its appearance appearance on on the the French French table. table. Before Before that that soup soup had had been been its poured poured out out of ofthe the kitchen kitchen marmite marmite directly into covered covered bowls directly into fiUed, to to the the guests. guests. In In the the reign reign of of Louis Louis which were were carried, carried, filled, which

used the language language of of cookery. cookery. On menus the bird is called used in the dindanneau (young turkey) turkey) or sometimes, sometimes, with reference to a dindonneau (young

hen bird, (turkey hen), which implies a young, young, tender bird, dinde (turkey 2lto lb). hen-bird hen-bird of of about 2i to 4 kg. kg. (5 (5 to 88Ib). hen turkeys All Ali recipes for chicken are are suitable for for hen turkeys and young turkey-cocks. Truss the Turkey Turkey ià loanglaise. l'anglaise. DINDoNNEAU DINDONNEAU A À L'ANGt.qrss L'ANGLAISE -- Truss against the breast. Poach turkey turkey with the legs legs pressed pressed tightly against chicken àd stock (see CHICKEN, Boiled in in a a poultry poultry stock (see CHICKEN, Boiled chicken l'anglaise). l'anglaise) . snrrorrlNE DE la toulousaine. Ballottine of turkey turkey ài la toulousaine. BALLOTTINE Ballottine of young turkey: stuff rout-ousAlNn -- Bone a young DTNDoNNEAu Au DINDONNEAU À LA TOULOUSAINE FORCEMEAT) mixed mixed with it with Quene/leforcemeat 1/ (see FORCEMEAT) Quenelleforcemeat II and truffies. salpicon of lambs' lambs' sweetbreads, mushrooms and aa salpicon (ballottine). Wrap in in aa Roll the bird into a long tight bundle (ballottine). poultry in aa very very little fine and poach in little concentrated poultry fine cloth cloth and stock. either directly Drain the ballottine. Drain ballottine. Put it on a serving dish, either fried bread Surround with dish or or on on aa slice slice of of fried bread.. Surround the dish on the on (see GARNISHES). Coat garnish (see with Suprême Suprdme Coat with Toulouse garnish (see SAUCE) cooking stock stock concentrated cooking SAUCE) with with the the concentrated sauce (see sauce it. added to il. white instead of of white served brown instead Ballottine of turkey can be served Ballottine for braised indicated for in braising stock as as indicated cooking itit in braising stock by by cooking (see CHICKEN). garnishes such such CHICKEN). Serve Serve with various garnishes chicken (see godard, turtle, with braised etc., or or with turtle, etc., as chipolata, chipolata, financière, as financibre, godard, pastaprepared or àd la la I'italienne, àit la lamilanaise or pasta prepared àd l'italienne, milanaise or vegetables or risotto. napolitaine, napolitaine, or with risotto. prepared in in the the served cold cold isis prepared turkey to to be be served Ballottine of turkey jelly galantine of in aa jelly of chicken, chicken, in way. It is is poached, like like galantine same same way. with is served, served, coated coated with weight, itit is cooling under under aa weight, stock. stock. After cooling jelly (clarified), (clarified), or completely served in in aa bowl bowl completely its own or served its own jelly covered injelly. in jelly. (with yarious garnishes). DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU Braised Braised turkey turkey (with various garnishes). in trussed turkey turkey in DIvERsEs -- Cook Cook aa trussed BRAiSÉ sn.Atsf AVEC AvEc GARNITURES cARNITUREs DIVERSES it. Put Put itit on on is ready, ready, drain drain and and untruss untruss il. braising stock. When itit is braising stock. garnish. Skim all fat fat off off with the the garnish. Skim all dish surrounded surrounded with serving dish aa serving pour over turkey. over the the turkey. strain and and pour Boil down, down, strain the the braisingstock. braising stock. Boil garnished with with can be be garnished Braised turkey-hens turkey-hens or or cocks cocks can Braised with the which should should be vegetables, cooked with the some of of which be cooked different bles, sorne different vegeta garnishes are are:-: alsacienne, Among the the garnishes alsacienne, others separately separately.. Among bird, bird, others pork, Strasbourg sausStrasbourg saussauerkraut, smoked smoked belly belly of of pork, braised braised sauerkraut, (the bird with in red red wine wine with braised in ages, ages, bourguignonne bourguignonne (the bird being being braised glazed onions), pork lardoons, of pork lardoons, and glazed onions), belly belly of mushrooms mushrooms and celery, mushrooms, mushrooms, chipolatas, chipolatas, fermière, braised braised celery, fermibre, financière, financibre, pitmontaise, strasstrasmilanaise, piémontaise, napolitaine, milanaise, languedocienne, languedocienne, napolitaine, (see GARNISHES). bourgeoise GARNISHES). bour ge oise (see Stuff DTNDoNNEAU FARCI FARcI BRAiSÉ nn,llsf -- Stuff Braised stuffed stuffed turkey. turkey. DINDONNEAU Braised and some other other mixture, mixture, and the with fine fine stuffing stuffing or or sorne the turkey turkey with (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). proceed as proceed for Stuffed asfor Stuffed chicken chicken (see garnishes indicated used. may be Ali indicated for for chicken chicken may be used. All garnishes cAssERoLE, DINDoNNEAU EN ENCASSEROLE, turkey. DINDONNEAU Casserole Casserole or or cocotte cocotte of ofturkey. (see casserole (see Prepare as as for for Chicken EN cocorrE -- Prepare Chicken casserole EN COCOTTE CHICKEN). CHICKEN). can be beserved served Turkeys or en en cocotte cocotte can cooked en Turkeys cooked en casserole casserole or garnishes such mushrooms, with such as as artichokes, artichokes, mushrooms, with various various garnishes (zucchini, courgettes), small aubergines, courgettes), small small marrows marrows (zuccbini, aubergines, small potatoes, truffies, onions, truffies, etc. etc. onions, potatoes, Truss Turkey lachipolata. DINDoNNEAU ÀA LA LA CHIPOLATA crupor.a.r^4, -- Truss Turkey ài la chipolata. DINDONNEAU pressed against Bard aa turkey against the the breast. breast. Bard with the the legs legs tightly tightly pressed turkey with it. in butter. it. Pot-roast Pot-roast in butter. pieceof bread, Serve ofbread, raised on on aa large large piece on aaserving serving dish dish raised Serve itit on fried in butter. fried in butter. garnish of little Surround arranged inin little with aa garnish of chipolatas chipolatas arranged Surround with (seeGARNISHES). clumps Pouron onthe the spaces between GARNISHES). Pour with spaces between (see clumps with cooking thickened brown brown stock diluted diluted with with Madeira Madeira and and thickened cooking stock veal down and andstrained. strained. stock,or or chicken chicken stock stock boiled boileddown veal stock,

the goldsmith goldsmith Thomas Germain Germain ·(see (see SILVERWARE) SILVER W ARE) XV, the XV, made magnificent magnificent tureens. tureens. The The most most beautiful beautiful were made made at made Sèvres, Strasbourg, Strasbourg, Moustiers, Moustiers, Rouen, Rouen, etc. In the the nineteenth Sdvres, and twentieth twentieth century century the the tureen tureen continued continued to make make part of and the dinner dinner service. service, and and to to follow follow the the evolution evolution of of fashion and the style. style.

Plucked turkey turkey (Pielremenl. (Pietremmt. Phol. Larousse) Phot. larousse)

TURKEY. There are are two DINDoN. DINDONNEAU DINDoNNEAU -- There TURKEY. DINDE, DINDE. DINDON, main North native of North varieties of turkey: wild turkey, turkey, native main varieties turkey: the wild America, and the farmyard turkey, bred in poultry runs. The The origin it is uncertain. Sorne Some authorities believe that it origin ofthis of this bird is cornes was its original habitat was from Bermuda, others others that that its original habitat comes from North America. It seems was that that likely that first home home of of the the turkey turkey was that the seems likely the first immense extreme the extreme tract of stretches from from the which stretches immense tract of land land which northwestern boundary of to the isthmus of of States to the isthmus of the United States Panama. Panama. In Canada turkeys North America, America, wild wild turkeys Canada and and other other parts of of North were plentiful, but now mainly found mainly found very plentiful, they are are now but they once very were once towards the centre day isis more more continent, which which to to this this day centre of of the the continent, sparsely settled. sparsely settled. Brillat-Savarin, paragraph of his Sixth long paragraph of his Sxt& Brillat-Savarin, who who devoted devoted aa long Meditation 'The turkey turkey isis says'The to turkeys turkeys and and turkey-lovers, turkey-lovers, says Meditation to one .' and gifts made New World World to to theOld the Old.' and finest gifts made by the the New one of of the the finest adds: me of 'The na in France France dinde dinde or or d'Inde, d'Inde, name the bird bird isis in adds: 'The of the meaning past America known as as in the America was was known from India India since since in the past meaning from the West Indies. Indies. the West 'The of the the 'The turkey in Europe towards the the end end of turkey appeared appeared in Europe towards seventeenth who was imported the Jesuits, Jesuits, who century. ItIt was imported by by the seventeenth century. reared bers, especially farm on aa farm these birds in large large num numbers, especially on reared these birds in whicb From there there they they in the region of of Bourges. Bourges. From which they they owned owned in the region spread popular speech in speech in which isis why why in in popular spread ail all over over France, France, which many parts of people refer turkey as as aa the country country people refer to to aa turkey many parts of the "Jesuit" place in "Jesuit".. America have America isis the in which which wild wild turkeys turkeys have the only only place been North farms of in aa natural state, and and on on the the farms of North natural state, found in been found America, are bred where turkeys are very very common, common, they they are bred America, where turkeys are either young hen or from young from wild wild eggs hatched by by aa tame tame hen or from either from eggs hatcbed poults poults caugbt the the result result that that the caught in in the the woods woods and and tamed, tamed, with with the flocks natural retain more more of of their their natural are closer closer to to nature nature and and retain flocks are plumage.' plumage.' 943 943

TURKEY TURKEY Cold hrrkey. turkey. DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU FROID FRorD- - Ali All recipes recipes for for cold cold Cold chicken are are suitable suitable for for turkey. turkey. chicken Daube of of hrrkey turkey ài lalabourgeoise. bourgeoise. DINDONNEAU oTNooNNEAU EN ENDAUBE o.c,usnÀA Daube LA BOURGEOISE BouRcEorsr - - For For this thisdish dish aatender tender turkey turkey hen hen2* 2f,to $kg. LA to 3t kg. (5 to lb.) must must be young turkey to 77 lb.) be used used and and not not aayoung turkey cock. cock.Braise Braise (5 (see in bird a the brown stock indicated for as braisedchicken chicken (see the bird in a brown stock as indicated for braised parts cooked, CHICKEN). Wh When three parts cooked, drain. drain. Strain Strainthe the CHICKEN). en itit isis three braising stock. stock. Put Put the the bird bird back pan. back inin the the braising braising pan. braising with aa bourgeoise garnish made Surround with bourgeoise gamish made of of carrots carrots cut into cut into Surround pear shapes, parts cooked shapes, three three parts glazed carrots, cooked as as for forglazed carrots, small small pear pieces of onions and and pieces of blanched blanched and pork. fried belly and fried belly of of pork. $azed onions glazed Pour the the strained strained braising pan and braising stock stock over. over. Coyer Cover the the pan and Pour finish cooking cooking in in aa moderate moderate oyen. oven. finish Fricass6e of of hrrkey. turkey. FRICASSÉE FRrcAssfE DE DTNDoNNEAU -- Using DE DINDONNEAU Using aa Fricassée young and and tender tender turkey, prepare as turkey, prepare asfor for Fricassée Fricassbeof of chicken chicken young (see CHICKEN). CHICKEN). (see Galantine of of ben-hrrkey hen-turkey en en beUevue. bellevue. DINDE DINDE EN EN GALANTINE GALANTTNEEN EN Galantine young hen-turkey BELLEvIJE -- Prepare Prepare with with aa young (5 to hen-turkey 2* 2| to to 3t 3j kg. kg. (5 to BELLEVUE lb.) as as indicated indicated for (see CHICKEN). for Galantine Galantine of of chicken chicken (see CHICKEN). 77 lb.) jelly stock the turkey turkey in Cook the in aa jelly stock containing containing caJves' calves' feet, feet, Cook poultry carcases, knuckle ofveal, ofveal, poultry carcases, fresh pork skin. fresh pork skin. knuckle galantine. U Drain the the galantine. Unwrap and cool cool under under aa weight. weight. Drain nwrap itit and galantine with Mask the the galantine with White White chaud-froid chaud-froid sauce sauce flavoured flavotred Mask with Madeira Madeira and and made with sorne poultry stock, made with some of of the the poultry stock, the the with jelly (see remainder of of this this being poultry jelly (see being used used to to make make aa poultry remainder SAUCE). JELLY, JELL Y, SAUCE). galantine with Garnish the the galantine pickled tongue with truffies, truffies, pickled tongue and and the the Garnish jelly, cut white of of hard hard boiled Add the jelly, pieces. boiled egg. egg. Add cut into into pieces. white galantine can This galantine can also be served served on plinth. on aa dish dish or or aa plinth. This giblets. ABATIS Turkey giblets. ABATTs DE DE DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU -- Prepare Prepare as as for for Turkey giblets of chicken and of chicken poultry (see (see GIBLETS). and other other poultry GIBLETS). giblets Grilled hrrkey. turkey. DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAu GRILLÉ cnrlrf -- Only Only very very small small Grilled prepared in turkeys are are prepared in this this way. way. Prepare Prepare as as for for Grilled Grilled turkeys (see CHICKEN). chicken (see CHICKEN). chicken Braised hrrkey turkey legs legs with ganrishes. CUISSES with various various garnishes. curssrs DE DE Braised DTNDoNNEAU sRArsfEs -- The The legs legs of of large large turkeys, turkeys, whose whose DINDONNEAU BRAISÉES wings or breasts have been in sorne been used used in some other other way, way, are are breasts have wings or prepared thus: prepared th us : Bone the (see legs. Fill Fill with with aa suitable suitable forcemeat forcemeat (see Bone the legs. FORCEMEAT). into little little long, long, tight tight bundles FORCEMEAT). Roll Roll them them into (ballottines'). Braise in or brown stock. Glaze Glaze in in the the (ballottines). Braise in white or brown stock. oven. serving dish and gamish garnish according according to the oyen. Arrange Arrange on a serving recipe selected. cooking sauce. selected. Mask with the cooking Legs of called of turkey turkey prepared prepared in this way are often ca lied turkey hams. Turkey recipes for chicken Turkey liver. rorc FOIE DE DrNDoNNelu DINDONNEAU -- All Ali recipes liver can be for turkey liver. They can be served with liver are suitable for pilaf garnishes, etc. pilaf or or risotto, or saut6ed sautéed with various gamishes, etc. (see GARNISHES). GARNISHES). Turkey Turkey livers livers can be used as an ingredient of various various stuffings. stuffings. They They are are also also served served sliced and saut6ed sautéed and as a garnish garnish for eggs eggs cooked cooked in in different ways, ways, especially especially omelettes omelettes and scrambled scrambled eggs. eggs. Hot Hot turkey hrrkey pflt6. pâté. rArf PÂTÉ cHAUD CHAUD DE DE DTNDoNNEAU DINDONNEAU - Using boned asfor boned turkey, turkey, prepare prepare as for Hot chicken chicken phti pâté (see (see PATE). P ÀTÉ). Turkey Turkey pAft pâté can also also be be served cold, when a a few few tablespoons spoons of of concentrated concentrated poultry poultry jelly jelly are are poured poured into the the pdt6 pâté through through a a hole hole made made to to allow steam steam to to escape escape during cooking. cooking. Turkey Turkey pinions. pinions. ATLERoNs AILERONS DE DE DTNDoNNEAU DINDONNEAU - These These are usually and braised, braised, and and served served with with various various garnishes garnishes usuaJly stuffed stuffed and (SeePINIONS). (see PINIONS). Poupeton Poupetoo of of turkey hrrkey Brillat-Savarin. Brillat-Savarin. poupEToN POUPETON DE DE DTNDoNNEAU DINDONNEAU BRTLLAT BRILLAT -sAvARrN -SAVARIN -- Bone Bone aa small small turkey turkey as as for for aa galantine. mixture of of fine fine veal veal stuffing stuffing and and dà galantine. Stuff Stuff with with aa mixture gratin gratin stltffing stuffing (see (see FORCEMEAT) FORCEMEAT) enriched enriched with lambs' lambs' sweetbreads sweetbreads braised braised in in white white stock, stock, diced foie foie gras gras and coarsely coarsely diced diced trufles. truffies.

Roll the theturkey turkeyinto intoaalong longtight pigs' tightbundle. bundle.Wrap Wrapititininpigs' RoU caul, then thenininmuslin muslinor cheesecloth.Tie orcheesecloth. Tieititsecurely. securely. caul, poupeton Put this thispoupe panIined buttered daube daubepan linedwith withraw raw Put ton ininaabuttered ham,onion onion rings ringsand andcarrots. carrots.Coyer gentlyfor Coverand andcook cookgently for1515 ham, minutes. Pour glassof Pourover overit ofMadeira. Madeira. Boil Boildown. down.Moisten minutes. it aaglass Moisten poultry stock with poultry stockand andfinish finish cooking cooking ininthe theoyen, oven,covered. with covered. Strain, boil boildown downthe thecooking cooking stock, stock,and andserve serveas Strain, with assauce saucewith theturkey. turkey. the poupeton can Turkey poupeton canalso alsobe beserved served cold. cold.After Aftercooking, Turkey cooking, itit left to tocool coolunder under aaweight weightand andserved poultry served masked maskedwith isisleft withpoultry jelly. jelly. Ragoiitof of hrrkey. turkey. RAGOÛT RAcoOr DE DEDrNDONNEAU DrNDoNNmu - -Using Ragoût Usingturkey turkey pieces, prepare cut into into pieces, prepareasasfor for Goose (seeGOOSE). Gooseragoût ragofit (see cut GOOSE). garnishes can Various garnishes can be servedwith beserved withturkey turkeyragoût. rago0t.Among Various Among the most mostsuitable suitable are are the the following: following: Bourgeoise, Bourgeoise, new the newcarrots, carrots, celeriac, mushrooms, mushrooms, chipolata, chipolata, artichoke celeriac, artichoke hearts, hearts, chestnuts, chestnuts, (see GARNISHES). potatoes (see GARNISHES). potatoes Roast turkey. turkey. DINDONNEAU DrNDoNNsA,uRÔTlRoast n6rr - Truss Truss aasmall smallturkey turkey and and bard the thebreast breast with pork fat. with pork fat. Roast bard Roaston the spit, spit,allowing onthe allowing 20 20 per 500 minutes per 500g.g.(1(l lb.), lb.), or orinin the minutes per the oyen ovenfor for 25 25minutes minutesper g. (1(l lb.). 500 g. lb.). 500 Before the the turkey turkey isis fully fully cooked, cooked, rem ove the Before remove the barding barding and and brown the the breast breast evenly. evenly. Serve Serve with brown with the thediluted diluted cooking cooking stock stock and with with watercress. watercress. and

Roast Roast turkey àd l'anglaise l'an$aise (John (John Cowderoy) Cowderoy\

Roast hrrkey turkey ài l'anglaise. I'anglaise. DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAu RÔTI n6rl ÀA L'ANGLAlSEr'Ar.rcrArsE Stuff the the turkey turkey with aa sage sage and and onion prepared as onion stuffing stuffing prepared as peel and follows: follows: Bake the onions in in their their skins skins in in the the oyen. oven. Peel and ch op them. Toss in butter. chop butter. Season Season with aa pinch of chopped of chopped sage. Mix with an equal quantity quantity of breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, dipped dipped in in milk and and squeezed, squeezed, and and half their quantity of their quantity of chopped chopped veal veal fat. put itit Roast the turkey in the usual way (see Roast (see ROASTING). Put on a serving dish surrounded with slices slices of of bacon bacon or or grilled sausages. Serve with the cooking gravy and (see and Bread Bread sauce sauce (see SAUCE). sAUCE). Turkey Turkey witb with cbestnut chestnut stuffing. shffing. DINDONNEAU DTNDoNNEAU FARCI FARcr AUX AUx MARRONS - Stuff a medium-sized turkey turkey 2t kg. (5Ib.) best MARRoNS-Stuffamedium-sized (51b.) with 2ike. with best sausage meat, allowing sausage allowing 575 (l| to 575 to 750 g. (lt 750 g. to It l+ lb.), lb.), according according to the size of of the bird, mixed with chestnuts chestnuts and and two-thirds two-thirds cJear chicken or veal veal stock cooked in clear flavoured with stock flavoured with celery. celery. the breast breast bone. Truss the the turkey bard it. Remove the turkey and and bard it. oyen, basting basting frequently frequently during Roast on the spit or in the oven, during cooking. Serve Serve with with its own own gravy. cooking. DINDE frourrEE ÉTOUFFÉE cRAND-DUc GRAND-DUC Stuffed hen-turkey ben-hrrkey grand-duc. grand-duc. DrNDE Stutrd - 'Slit open open aa hen-turkey hen-turkey (about (about 2?kg.,6lb.), 2i kg., 6Ib.), along along the back the back -'Slit and stuffwith stuff with the the following mixture: mixture: and '500 g. g. (l lb.) lb.) chicken rubbed through through a a fine fine sieve, sieve, litre '500 I litre

t

944 94

TURNIP (scant pint,2f, g. (+ 250 g. (scant pint, 2i cups) double cream, (~ lb.) foie foie gras, cream, 250 poached all poached in port wine and rubbed through aa sieve. Mix al! these these ingredients ingredients thoroughly and season. season. I 2 truffies, 10 minutes 'Add 12 truffies, peeled peeled and cooked min utes in a little [ittle cooked for 10 which have Z4'chicken liqueur brandy, brandy, and 'chicken hearts hearts which have been liqueur and 24 soaked in water, the veins removed, removed, steeped in white Malaga wine, drained, dried in a cloth, stuffed with a pur6e of York ham, 15 minutes ham, and and poached poached for for 15 minutes in in Truffie essence (see ESSENCE). Wrap in slices 'Fold the stuffed stuffed turkey turkey carefully carefully into shape. shape. Wrap ofraw bacon. Encase of raw ham or bacon. Encase it in a large layer layer of Lining paste (see care to keep shape of of the bird as far (see DOUGH), DOUGH), taking takingcare keep the shape 2l hours. as possible. possible. Bake in the oven for 2i cooking, which which must 'During cooking, be slow, cover the the turkey must be all with greaseproof paper folded in 4, 4, so so that it will cook ail through througb without browning too soon. 'To serve, present the turkey as it cornes comes out of the oven, and serve a sauce-boat and serve with with itit a sauce-boat of of Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (Recipe of of M. SAUCE) flavoured witb SAUCE) flavoured with truffie trufre essence.' essence.' (Recipe while he was in Valmy-Joyeuse, dish in 1906 whiJe Y-JV Y'~""'''''. who created this disb charge of the kitchens of Marquise of Mazenda.) of the Marquise Trrffed turkey. turkey. DTNDoNNEAU DINDONNEAU TRUFFÉ rnurrn -- Discriminating gourmets believe that to achieve gourmets best results a truffied achieve the best trufred bird should be be stuffed with with truffies trufres 4 or 5 days days before cooking. After the truffies trufles have have fulfilled fulfilled their function offlavouring of flavouring the After their function removed and discarded, discarded, and the bird is stuffed bird, they are removed mixed with with more raw foie gras, with pork fat or raw afresh witb more truffies truffies mixed and then cooked. cooked. The following method of preparing preparing truffied truffied turkey or any game is more winged game other poultry or winged practical : more practical: Prepare Forcemeat .fo, for truffied poultry (see Prepare aa Forcemeat trffied poultry FORCEMEAT). FORCEMEAT). Draw the turkey, turkey, leaving the skin of of the neck very long so as to be able to close the opening in the bird securely when (This can be done by your your poultry dealer.) dealer.) trussing. (This Under Under the skin of of the turkey, insert a dozen large slices of truffie, seasoned and truffie, seasoned and sprinkled with aa few drops of brandy. Stuff and truss truss the turkey and wrap it in a sheet sheet of buttered Stuff and place for· greaseproof paper. for 24 paper. Leave to stand in in aa cool cool place hours. paper. Roast on the Bard the turkey. Wrap it in buttered paper. (l lb.) spit in front of of a hot fire, allowing 30 minutes minutes per 500 g. (lIb.) or roast roast inthe in the oven uncovered, uncovered, allowing 25 to 30 minutes per (l lb.). 500 g. e. (lIb.). it. Put Put itit on Unwrap and and untruss the the turkey. turkey. Brown it. on a if enriched, if serving dish and serve serve with its own diluted gravy, enriched, 'Lo.LI. SAUCE). desired, with Périgueux Ptrigueux sauce (see Lln,,-, The truffied pork pork fat st uffi ng can be made without foie gras, stuffing withoutfoie but this ingredient greatly improves the flavour.

and the the flat-rooted. The latter is superior for for flavour and and flat-rooted. The is superior sweetness. sweetness. Boiled turnips. NAvETs I.l CRÈME cntl,tE -- Prepare Prepare as for Glazed NAVETS A À LA (see CARROT). carrots (sec Turnips to be further cooked in the sauce of of the main dish Turnips are prepared in this way:: Trim the turnips to look like olives (or if they are are small, small, leave them Saut6 in in butter. them whole). Sauté Season with salt and and sprinkle with castor sugar. Sauté Saut6 for a few seconds over aa very high flame to brown them slightly. cooking with the main dish. Finish cooking Turnips au Turnips au gratin or Mornay. NAvETS AU GRATIN GRATIN DITS NAVETS AU MORNAY MoRNAy -- Cut the tunips into thick slices and parboil. Cool Put them under running water. Drain. Cook $lowly in butter. Put in an ovenware dish lined with Mornay sauce (see SAUCE) cover with with more more sauce. Sprinkle with grated cheese, pour and cover on melted butter butter and brown slowly. pArN DE NAvETs mould. PAIN of Turnip mould. NAVETS -- Prepare, using pur6e purée of asfor timbale (see CARROT). turnips, as for Carrot timbale Turnips with chopped parsley. NAvETs AUx FINES FINEs HERBES -NAVETS AUX turnips to look like olives or cut into slices. slices. Parboil Trim the turnips are fairly fairly tender. tender. Cool under they are them in salt water until they with salt water and and drain. drain. Sauté Saut6 in butter. Season Season with running water and aa large large pinch of castor castor sugar. sugar. Cook Cook slowly, slowly, tossing tossing and pinch of frequently. To serve, sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley. parsley. punfn DE NAVETS Ttnnip puree. PURÉE NAvETs -- Prepare, Prepare, using turnips, turnips, as indichted in the recipe for Cardoon CARDOON). purée (see CARDOON). Cardoonpurte Pdi€r of of turnip firnip soup -- See SOUPS BROTHS. Purée SOUPS AND BROTHS. NAvETs -- Proceed, using pur6e Turnip soufi:lé. soufl6. SOUFFLÉ sourrrf AUX AUx NAVETS of turnips, as indicated for Carrot soffi6 (see CARROT). of eq equal Stuffed fiunips. NAvErs Fmcrs - Peel round tturnips urni ps of ual of the stalks and scoop out. Parboil size. Cut round the base of the scooped-out turnips until they are fairly tender. Make a pur6e to itit half its weight of purée of the scooped-out pulp. pulp. Add to well, season and add butter. Stuffthe mashed potatoes. Mix weil, this mixture, turnips with this mixture, smoothing smoothing it into the shape of aa Put the the turnips dome. in aa buttered turnips in dome. Put baking dish, dish, pour on buttered baking melted butter, in the and finish melted butter, and finish cooking cooking in the oven, oven, basting frequently. (garnish). NAVETS turnips (garmsh). NAVETS FARCIS Peel large large Stuffed turnips FARcrs -- Peel corer into each one, starting at the base of turnips. Press a corer of the stalks, but do not drive it through through to the other side. tender. Cool them Parboil the turnips until they are fairly tender. remove drain, and rem under running water, drain, ove the cores. Rub the quantity ofdry through a sieve. Add an equal quantity cores through of dry duxelles. Fill the turnips with this stuffing and smooth the surface into thp turnips in a buttered baking dish, aa dome. dome. Put th~ dish, pour on melted butter, and bake in the oven, basting basting l'rp/111pnth, frequently. soon as as the turnips As As soon turnips are are cooked, sprinkle with breadquickly. crumbs and brown quickly. Stuffed turnipo à NAvErs FARCIS Stuffed dr la duxeUes. r,c.RcIs À A LA DUXELLESDUXELLES duxelles. NAVETS Prepare as for Stufed turnips, filling the SCOIOOI:::Q-IOut scooped-out turnips turnips has with aa duxelles mixture to which the pulp of the turnips and rubbed through through aa been added after having been been stewed and sieve. dish. Moisten with aa Put the tumips turnips in aa buttered baking dish. few few tablespoons tablespoons of c1ear clear soup soup or clear vea! veal stock. stock. Sprinkle with breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, pour on melted butter, and bake in a slow oven. la pi6montaise. NAvETs r,c*cn A re turnipe ài la Stuffed piémontaise. NAVETS Stuffed turnips pr6rrloNrnlsn -- Prepare as PIÉMONTAISE as for for Stufed turnips, filling the turnips with Risotto (see RICE) mixed with the finely diced turnips with grated Parmesan. Pour pulp stewed in butter. butter. Sprinkle with grated on melted melted butter and brown in a slow oven. Turnips in sugar. NAVETS NAvErs AU Peel and and quarter the AU SUCRE sucRE -- Peel turnips. Trim to look like olives. Parboil ihem ifthey if they are old. Saut6 in butter, seasoning with salt salt and and aa Httle little sugar. When they stew-pan. Moisten with with veaJ veal they are browned, put them in aa stew-pan. all the moisture has evaporated. evaporated. stock, cover, and stew unti! until ail

TURXEY -See INTERNATIONAL COOKERY. TURKEY - See INTERNATIONAL TURNIP. NAVET -- Pot vegetable of European origin with a TURNIP. NAvEr fleshy and sweetish root. It was cultivated in India before the Aryan invasion. Young, tender turnips are usually easy to digest but Young, but large somewhat indigestible. Turnips turnips are somewhat Turnips have have the property of absorbing large quantities of fat (like baricot haricot beans), and for this this reason they are traditionally traditionally served served witb with fatty meat (mutton, duck, etc.). (mutton, Turnips, Turnips, which which are sold in in French markets all all the the year are sold round, round, are are mainly mainly used, used, like like carrots, carrots, parsnips, leeks leeks and onions, as pot vegetables. In France, the best turnips for this purpose come from Meaux. in navarins, and especially especially as as aa Spring turnips are used in navarins, and preparation garnish for duckling. Turnips are also used in the preparation as aa of thick and cream soups. They are less commonly commonly eaten as vegeta ble on their own. vegetable put in Turnips can in two main can be be put main classes, the long-rooted 945 94s

TURNOVER

To make make an anapple apple turnover: turnover: To Fill half halfthe round of ofpastry with the preparation. Fold the apple apple preparation. pastryand Fold over overthe the pastry and Fill the round pastry with join the edges join the edges (Larousse) (Larousse)

Serve in in aa vegetable vegetable dish, garnish. dish, or or use use as as aa garnish. Serve Tunip tops. tops. FEUILLES ruunrEs DE DE NA NAVET prepared Turnip tops tops are are prepared Turoip VET -- Turnip like spinach spinach or or cabbage. cabbage. like

fillets, cut cut into into small small strips, strips, and and chopped fillets, chopped truffles truffies are are added. added. pastry over Fold the the pastry over into into turnovers. turnovers. Set Fold Set them them on on aa buttered buttered baking-tin, brush brush with with beaten beaten egg baking-tin, egg and and bake bake inin aa230°e. 230C. (450"F.) oven oven until golden brown. until golden (450°F.) brown. Turnovers ài la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. CHAUSSONS Turnovers cHAUSsoNs ÀA LA r,c. LYONNAISE LyoNNlrsE -- Fill Fill circles of of Flaky pastry (see (seeDOUGH) Flaky pastry good spoonful DOUGH) with circles with aagood spoonful of of pike or creamed pike or other other white white fish creamed fish finished finished with with Crayfish Crayfish butter butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butters) mixed (see preparation mixed with with aa preparation crayfish tails of crayfish tails and and truffles, truffi.es, flavoured flavoured with of with aa little little Cognac. Cognac. Fold over pastry in over the the pastry in aa turnover, Fold turnover, seal seal the the edges, put them edges, put them buttered baking on aa buttered sheet, brush baking sheet, on brush with with egg, egg, and and bake in aa hot bake in hot (230'C.,450"F.) oven (230°e., golden. oven 450°F.) until until golden. Turnovers ài la la Nantua. Nantua. CHAUSSONS Turnovers cHAUssoNS ÀA LA r-l NANTUA NlNrul -- Prepare Prepare in the same way way as the same as Turnovers in Turnovers àh la with aa Crayfish la lyonnaise, lyonnaise, with Crayfish (see CRA tail ragoût ragoitt àd la la Nantua Nantua (see YFISH) in tail place of CRAYFISH) in place of the the mixture. pike mixture. pfnrcouRuNn p6rigourdine. CHAUSSONS Turnovers ài la la périgourdine. Turnovers cHAUssoNs ÀA LA LA PÉRIGOURDINE circles of (see DOUGH) of Flaky -- Fill circles Flaky pastry (see DOUGH) with preparawith aa preparagras and tion of of foie tion and truffles truffies seasoned seasoned with pepper with salt salt and and pepper foie gras put and sprinkled sprinkled with and with Cognac. Cognac. Fold Fold over over into into turnovers. turnovers. Put them on on aa buttered baking them baking sheet, sheet, and and bake in aa hot bake in hot oven oven (230'C., 450°F.). 450'F.). Serve (230°e., . hot. Serve very hot. Turnovers ài la reine. CHAUSSONS Turnovers cHAUssoNs À A LA r.l, REINE RsrNn -- Prepare Prepare m in the the same way way as same as Turnovers Turnovers àit la ptrigourdine, but la périgourdine, but replace replace the the preparation offoie preparation of foie gras and truffles truffies with aa purée pur6e of of creamed creamed chicken chicken mixed mixed with chopped chopped truffles truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. The rissoles for which recipes will be be found under HORSHORSD'ŒUVRE, D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot hors-d'œuvre hors-deuvre are, ate, in in fact, fact, turnovers turnovers when when they are prepared witb with circles of pastry and and fol~ed folded over, over, b~t but this type of turnover is is deep-fried deep-fried instead instead of of bemg being baked in baked m the oven.

TURNOVER. CHAUSSON cHAUssoN -- This This name name applies particularly to applies particularly to TURNOVER. preparation made made with with aa circle pastry filled circle of of flaky flaky pastry filled with with aa aa preparation mixture, folded folded over over and and baked in in the the oven. oven. . mixture, Although included included primarily primarily in in the the domam domain of of sweet sweet Although pastries, the the name name is is extended extended to to cover cover small small preparations pastries, served as as an an hors-d' hors-d œuvre euvre or or as as aa small small entrée. entrte. These These are made are made served with aa forcemeat forcemeat filling filling or or with with aa salpicon salpicon of of various various fishes; fishes; with gras and are foie gras there are and truffle truffie turnovers, turnovers turnovers filled with filled with there pur6e, or or with with aa salpicon ofvarious of various meats, game, etc. meats, offowl, of fowl, game, etc. purée, poMMEs - Fill the Apple turnover. turnover. CHAUSSON cHAUssoN AUX AUx POMMES the centre centre of ofaa Apple pastry (see (see DOUGH) circle of of Flaky Flaky pastry DOUGH) with aa few ta~lespoon~ tablespoons circle prepared as of apples apples prepared as for for aa charlotte, sliced, sliced, cook~ cooked m in aa s~ute saut6 of pan with butter butter and and sugar, sugar, and and flavoured flavoured wlth with vamlla, vanilla, pan with cinnamon, (see CHARLOTTE, or other other flavouring flavouring (see CHARLOTTE, Apple cinna mon or charlotte). Add Add when when cold, cold, and and fold fold over the the pastry into into aa charlotte).' turnover. Join the edges. Set on a buttered baking tin. tin. Mark Mark turnover. Join the few incisions, brush with with egg egg and and bake for bake for the top top with with aa few (450'F.). l5 minutes about 15 minutes at 230°e. 230"C. (450°F.). Turnovers with various various fruits fruits can can be made in in the the be made Turnovers filled filled with same apricots, pineapples, peaches, pears, cherries, peaches, same way: way: apricots, pineapples, cherries, plums, These can can be the pastry on the be put put on pastry uncooked or plums, etc. etc. These cooked cooked in syrup. syrup. When When using using raw fruits fruits it is best to soak them first first in in sugar sugar and liqueur. liqueur. Sweet turnovers preparation of turnovers can also be made with aa preparation fruit fruit soaked soaked in in sugar sugar and liqueurs and combined either with French cream, or French pastry pastry cream (see (see CREAMS), thick fresh fresh crean'l, apricot apricot jam. jam. Sweet of this kind are are served wann warm or Sweet turnovers turnovers of or cold. Turnovers ià la la Cussy. Cussy. cHAUssoNs CHAUSSONS A À rA, LA cussv CUSSY - These turnovers turnovers and and the following following are served xs as hors-d'auvre hors-d'œuvre or as aa small small entr6e. entrée. Fill Fill circles circles of of Flaky Flaky pastry pastry (see (see DOUGH) DOUGH) with a forcemeat of of creamed creamed whiting whiting or other white fish fish to which anchovy

TURNSPIT. TIIRNSPIT. TOURNEBROCHE rouRNEBRocne -- Old-fashioned turnspits were of various kinds. Sorne Some worked mechanicaHy mechanically by clockwork, clockwork, others by aa dog shut in in aa cage cage who who turned. turned the the spit. spit. Otbers Others were turned turned by a galopin, aa young apprentlce were apprentice hasteur, hasteur, who who face in front of often burned his face of the immense brazier. Later, spits operated by heat rising from the the fire, fire, turned aa winged wheel. They winged They still exist in great numbers numbers today. ~ower­ Powerdriven spits, spits, on which aa whole of beef beef or several driven whole side side of several chlckens chickens found in sorne at a time can be roasted, are found some establishments. establishments. But nowadays nowadays meat meat and poultry are generally roasted by But are generally by spitappliances operated operated by by electricity electricity or gas. appliances TURNSTONE. rounNn-prERRE TOURNE-PIERRE ou OU vrRE-prERne VIRE-PIERRE TURNSTONE.

Small -- Small bird of of the wader family which is prepared like like snipe edible bird snipe (q.v). TURRON (Confectionery). rounou TOURON - Turron, which origorigTURRON - Turron, which inated in in Spain, is a kind of of almond almond paste, paste, flavoured often often inated or candied candied fruits. fruits. with pistachio pistachio nuts, nuts, hazel hazel nuts nuts or with

Baked Baked apple apple turnover turnover (Larousse) (Larousse)

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TWAROGUE TWAROGUE is the water turtle turtle the water eaten, but but itit is The flesh of both kinds can be eaten, soup. that is made into the famous turtle soup. in high esteem, high esteem, that the the English English hold hold in 'Turtle soup is a soup that justified, because, conin the the opinion opinion of of conis fUlly fully justified, and this this is because, in and qualities of and of succulence succulence and does combine combine the the qualities noisseurs, itit does noisseurs, It isis the the reputed. It for which which itit isis universally universally reputed. nourishment for nourishment great pdr excellence, served at at the the great soup par often served aristocratic soup excellence, often aristocratie repasts. dinners and and ceremonial ceremonial repasts. diplomatic dinners diplomatie Africa and and imported from America, Africa are imported from South South America, 'Turtles 'Turtles are priced on on the the market market The best the most most highly highly priced Australia. The best and and the Australia. (A. Suzanne, Ia Cuisine West Indies.' Indies.' (A. Suzanne, La Cuisine from the the West come come from Anglaise.) Anglaise.\ imported in the the sun sun isis also also imported Turtle Turtle flesh flesh that has has been dried in been dried good soup. Connot make make good soup. Concountries, but does not from from these these countries, but does prize the particularly prize the flippers. flippers. noisseurs ofturtle of turtle cookery cookery particularly in flippers in ToRrrJE-- Cook Cook the the flippers Turtle flippers. NAGEOIRES NAGEotREs DE DE TORTUE Trntle Oippers. the in one one of of the cook in the done. Then Then cook the soup soup until until two-thirds two-thirds done. following ways: following ways: ns TORTUE ronruE ÀA Turtle I'am6ricaine. NAGEOIRES NAGEoIREs DE Turtle Oippers flippers ài l'américaine. with rughly highly L'AMÉRICAINE in white white wine. wine. Cover Cover with Braise in r'AMfRrcAINe -- Braise (see SAUCE). few seasoned Simmer for for aa few SAUCE). Simmer seasoned Américaine Amtricaine sauce sauce (see minutes. minutes. Turtle ToRTTJE ÀA LA LA NAGEoIRES DE DE TORTUE flippers ài la la financière. financiire. NAGEOIRES Turtle Oippers FINANCIÈRE surround in Madeira. dish and and surround Braise in Madeira. Set Set on on aa dish FTNANctiRE -- Braise (see GARNISHES). the with garnish (see down the Boil down GARNISHES). Boil with aa Financière Financiire garnish braising pour over liquor and and pour over the the flippers. flippers. braising liquor Turtle DE TORTUE ToRTUE ÀA flippers àd l'iodienne. I'indienne. NAGEOIRES NAGEoIREII DE Trutle Oippers L'INDIENNE with Curry sauce in white white wine. wine. Cover Curry sauce Braise in Cover with L'TNDIENNE -- Braise (see (see SAUCE). with Rice Rice àit moments. Serve Serve with SAUCE). Simmer Simmer for for aa few few moments. l'indienne (see RlCE). RICE). l'indienne (see Turtle BROTHS. AND BROTHS. Turtle soup soup -- See See SOUPS SOUPS AND

ln France the name touron LOuron is used used for a petit petit four four made in In the following way: the (! lb., 2 cups) blanched blanched almonds, 400 g. Ingredients: 225 g. (rlb.,2 (14 oz., seant 22 cups) cups) sugar, 4 egg whites, 100 g. (4 oz., eggwhites, oz., 1 cup) oz.,scant pounded pistachio g. (4 oz., pistachio nuts, 100 g. oz,l1 cup) Royal icing (see ICING), icing or confectioner's sugar, orange ICING), orange peel. Pound the the almonds almonds with with 2 wrutes. Add Pound 2 egg Add half half the egg whites. powdered powdered sugar sugar and knead knead together together on marble. Sprinkle with (|inch) sugar and roll out I1 cm. (! inch) thick. truck. sugar pistachios with the rest of Chop finely blanched pistachios of the sugar, orange peel. Put in a bowl with Royal icing mixed with orange icing and and the rest of of the egg whites whites and mix well with a wooden spoon. rolled-out sheet of Almond Spread in a uniform layer on the rolled-out paste (see ALMOND). ALMOND). Cut out with a round cutter, and with paste with cutter of of lesser lesser diameter another cutter diameter eut cut out the middles, middles, turning them into rings. Set these on on aa buttered, floured baking-tin baking-tin them in aavery very low oven. and dry them

roRruE TURTLE. TORTUE

with bodies for reptiles reptiles with term for - General term

-

encased in aa bony carapace (shell). encased TERRAPIN) and water turtles. There are land turtles (see TERRAPIN)

TURTLE TURTLE HERBS. HERBS. HERBES HERBEs ÀA TORTUE ronrue -- Mixture Mixture of of aromatic aromatic

herbs to season herbs used used to season soups soups or sauces called called àd la tortue. These These or sauces la tortue. herbs, which are herbs, wruch are sold sold commercially commercially ready-prepared, ready-prepared, are are basil, basil, thyme, thyme, bay bay and and marjoram. marjoram.

TURTLE-DOVE. pigeon family family One of of the the pigeon TURTLE DOYE. TOURTERELLE rouRrERELLr -- One found turtleAfrica. The The flesh flesh of of the the turtlefound in in ail all Europe, Europe, Asia Asia and and Africa. dove (q.v.) are pigeon (q.v.) are All the the methods methods ofpreparing of preparing pigeon dove isis edible. edible. AlI applicable. applicable. TW AROGUE (Russian cheese cream cheese Pressed cream cookery) -- Pressed TWAROGLJE @ussian cookery) mixed seasoned then seasoned with eggs eggs then bound with with softened softened butter, butter, bound mixed with (see with patties àd lala russe russe (see pepper. Used fill patties to fill and pepper. Used to with salt salt and PA TTIES, Little patties\. Little Russian Russian patties). PATTIES,

Water (green turtle) turtle) turtle (green Water turtle

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UDDER. TETINE TETTNE -- Calf's Calf 's and and cow's cow's udder udder can can be in be braised braised in UDDER. the same same way way as as noix noix de de veau. veau.lt can be be eaten eaten fresh, fresh, salted or salted or the It can smoked. smoked. It should should first first be be soaked soaked in in cold cold water, water, blanched, blanched, cooled in cooled in lt water and cold and flattened flattened under pressure. It under pressure. It may may also also be be co Id water studded with pieces of with small small pieces of bacon bacon fat. fat. studded Braised calf's calf 's udder udder is is accompanied accompanied by by one or other other of one or of the the Braised garnishes given given for for Noix Noix de de veau veau(seeVEAL). garnishes (see VEAL). UGLI. AEGLÉ lncrf -- Common Common tree tree of of East East Indies Indies which generally which generally UGLI. grows to great height. to aa great Its numerous height. Its numerous cylindrical cylindrical branches branches are are grows armed with with long long twin twin thorns thorns between the leaves. The fruit fruit isis armed between the leaves. The globular, about about the the size size of of an an orange, orange, with with aa thick thick hard hard skin. skin. globular, This fruit is is commonly commonly called called bilva or mahura mahura by by the the Indians This fruit bi/va or Indians and is much in spite spite of of its rather strong strong smell smell and and and is much prized, prized, in its rather insipid The English English who in the it who live live in the West West Indies Indies eat eat it insipid taste. taste. The baked cinders and and sprinkled sugar. It exported baked in in the the cinders sprinkled with with sugar. It is is exported to and also ofjani. It is jarri. lt is to aa certain certain extent extent to to England England and also in in the the form form of extremely extremely nourishing nourishing although although slightly slightly laxative. laxative. The skin of Theskin of the the ugli ugli provides provides scent scent which which is is highly highly valued. valued. UKHA(Russiancookery)-Thisis UKHA (Russian cookery) - This is Russian Russian for for afish a fish soup soup and and there there is is an an enonnous enormous variety variety of of them. them. The The stock stock can can be be prepared prepared from from any any sea sea or or river river fish: fish: small small perch, perch, bass, bass, ling, ling, pike-perch, pike, tench, cod, eel, salmon, pike-perch, pike, tench, cod, eel, salmon, trout trout and and carp, carp, as as well weil as as the the traditional traditional sturgeon sturgeon and and sterlet. sterlet. Boil Boil I1 sliced sliced onion, onion, I1 parsnip, parsnip, aa sprig sprig of of parsley, parsley, bay bay leaf leaf and (3~ pints, pints, 4} 4~ pints) pints) of of water water for for }~ and 66 peppercorns peppercorns in in 22 litres litres (3{ hour. it is hoùr. Cool Cool the the stock, stock, then then add add the the fish fish in in large large portions portions ififit is to to be be served served separately, separately, whole whole ifif itit isis to to be be used used for for stock stock only. only. Season 25 to to 30 30 minutes. minutes. Season with with salt salt and and simmer simmer slowly slowly for for 25 Remove Remove the the main main portions. portions. Heads, Heads, tails tails and and bones bon es from from filleted filleted fish fish can can be be left left to to simmer simmer another another 15 15 to to 20 20 minutes. minutes. Strain before use. Strain before use. For For aa really really good, good, clear clear ukha, ukha, yol you need need al a:1 assortment assortment of of fish fish to to give give itit taste, taste, strength, strength, sweetness sweetness and and aa certain certain viscosity. viscosity. Perch Perch and and bass bass can can be be recommended recommended for for their their flavour flavour and and gelatinous gelatinous qualities, qualities, ling ling and and allied allied fish fish for for sweetness sweetness and and delicacy. delicacy. The The best best ukha ukha isis made made of of the the freshest freshest fish. fish. The The more more fish fish used, used, the the richer ficher the the soup. soup. Small Small perch perch used used for for stock stock only only are are gutted; washed and the scales need washed and gutted; the scales need not not be be scraped scraped off, off, as as this this adds to the the texture. texture. Perch'for Perch for stock stock isis boiled boiled until until the the fish fish adds to disintegrates, strained. disintegrates, then then itit isis strained. To To give give ukha ukha aa perfect perfect translucency, translucency, Russian Russiancooks cooks clarify c1arify itit with with caviare. caviare. Pound Pound 50 50 g.g. (2 (2 oz.) oz.) caviare, caviare, either either pressed pressed or or in soft, soft, inaamortar. mortar. Add Add 33or or44tablespoons ta blespoonscold cold water, water, aalittle !ittleat at aa time, Dilute with with aa good good cupful cupful of ofvery very hot, hot, time, and and mix mix well. weil. Dilute strained strained fish fish stock. stock. Pour Pourhalf halfthis this mfuture mixture inlo into the the hot hot soup, soup,

stirring ail all the time, and the time, and bring bring to to the boil. boil. Add Add the the second second half half stirring the caviare caviare'clarifier', of the bring to to the the boil boil once again, simmer of 'clarifier', bring oncrc again, simmer on the lowest heat for the lowest for aa few few minutes, minutes, rem remove from heat on ove from heat and and to stand leave to stand for for 15 15 minutes for the the caviar caviar to to settle. leave settle. Strain, Strain, and serve serve either either with aa good good portion of of boiled boiled fish, fish, or or re-heat and with fish fish cou/ibiac. coulibiac. with The following following are are the the most famous famous of traditional ukhas: The with Jing ling roes, roes, burbot burbot with pike quenelles, salmon and sterlet with and Champagne soup, soup, sturgeon and and pearl barley, eel eel and and peas, Champagne whitebait and and sauerkraul, sauerkraut, carp carp and sorrel soup. whitebait

ULLUCUS or ULLUCO. ULLUCO. unuco ou uLLUeuE ULLUCUS ULLUCO ou ULLUQUE -- There is only one species of this plant, VI/ucus UIIucus luberosus. tuberosus.ItIt is widely only cultivated in in Bolivia and and Peru Peru for the culinary value of its cultivated small tubers. Attempts Attempts to cultivate cultivate it in Europe as a substitute smaJl for been very successful. suceessful. for the potato potato have not been LILMARIA. ULMATRE Herbaceous plant more commonly ULMARIA. ULMAIRE -- Herbaceous commonly asmeadow-sweet known Theflowering or goat's goat's beard. The flowering heads known as meadow-sweel or are used in infusion infusion as a diuretic. diuretic. Added to to wine, wine, they they give it a muscat muscal flavour. flavour. ULVA. Seaweed eaten in certain countries, notably ULVA. uLvE ULVE - Seaweed Japan, Japan, but but has has little little nutritional nutritional value. value.

Umbra Umbra

LJMBRA, UMBRA, MLIIIMINNOW. MUD-MINNOW.ul,mne UMBREEuropean fish fish found found in in - European fresh fresh water water but but not not commonly commonly marketed. marketed. LJMBRINE UMBRINE or or UMBRA. UMBRA. oMBRTNE, OMBRINE, oMBRE OMBRE DE DE MER MER -- MediterMediterranean ranean fish fish which which isis sometimes sometimes sold sold for for bass. bass. Itlt resembles resembles the the perch about l4kg. 14 kg. (321b.). (32 lb.). The The flesh flesh isis perch and and its its weight weight reaches reaches about very very delicate delicate and and was was greatly greatly pnzsd prized by by the the Romans. Romans. ItIt isis prepared prepared like like bass bass (q.v.). (q.v.).

-

- The The uncorking uncorking of of aa wine wine bottle donewithout withoutshaking shakingthe the bottle. bottle. Wine-waiters Wine-waiters bottlemust must be bedone generally one has has the the generally use use aa drill drill for for this this purpose, purpose, but, but, unless unless one knack knack of ofoperating operatingthis thistool, tool, ititisiswiser wiserto to use useaacorkscrew. corkscrew.

LIIICORKING. UNCORKING. nfnoucr{ER DÉBOUCHER

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UNUSUAL UNUSUAL FOODS FOODS UNFERMENTED UNFERMENTED WINE. WINE. ruo0r MOÛT -- Grape Grapejuice juice which which has has not not yet yet been been fermented. fermented. The The term term is is more more loosely loosely applied applied to to all ail juices or fruit or cereal cereal decoctions decoctions intended intended for for fermentation. fermentation. fruitjuices ItIl is is also also used used of certain vegetable vegetable juices juices from from which which alcoholic alcoholic drinks drinks are are made. made. INTERNATIONAL See UNITED STATES. UNITED STATES. See INTERNA TIONAL COOKERY. COOKERY.

Every Every year year the the Socittt Société nationale nationale dacclimatation d'acclimatation de de France France offers offers a a reunion reunion lunch lunch to to its its members. members. None None of of them them are are astonished list of of the the dishes dishes offered offered on on 77 astonished at at the the menu. menu. Here Here isis aa list June.1958: June, 1958: Vietnamese Vietnamese banh banh cuon cuon (mushroom-stuffed (mushroom-stuffed i.ce rice galettes) galettes) Threadfin of Tchad) Threadfin (perch (perch from from the the great great lake lake ofTchad) African Mrican elephant elephant trunk trunk Fonio couscous couscous (graminaceae (graminaceae from from the the Ivory Ivory Coast), Coast), served served with with water water chestnuts chestnuts Cascaval Cascaval (Bulgarian (Bulgarian ewes' ewes' milk milk cheese) cheese) Fruit Fruit from from Guinea

UNTRUSSING. o6nmnpn DÉBRIDER -- To To untie untie the the string string used used to to truss truss UNTRUSSING. poultry or winged winged game. game. poultry or

may well weil ask -- One may an unusual unusual food. Was Was it it Marie-Laure de what constitutes constitutes an what is unusual unusual as long as it it tastes tastes Noailles who said, 'No food is Noailles good'? good'? While While Joseph Delteil, Delteil, co-operating co-operating in an an investigation investigation carriedout Robert J. Courtine, Courtine, considered considered nothing nothing more out by Robert carried afresh from from the the tree and and gave gave delicious than a peach plucked afresh Melba as an example example of of an unusual dish! Peach Melba any variety of or any of Unusual means means any any type of cooking or Unusual ingredient that is is not not in in common common use; olive olive oil, for for example, example, is is ingredient unusual to to the people people of of Normandy Normand y as they always always use use butter. butter. unusual But with with the the ever-increasing speed speed of of transport bringing But so the faraway places closer and and closer, closer, so the unexpected unexpected food faraway The shift of a more frequent appearance appearance on our tables. The makes amore populations populations during and after aCter the Second World War, added bas made dishes that were once rare at to popular tourism, has of The Parisian boy least shorn of their their former mystique. The boy of least it were as though today speaks of the pizza as though it were his his own own native today of Sino-Vietnamese resince the dish; the mushrooming mushrooming of and since dish; and soup has become birds'nest staurants throughout the city, birds' nest soup just gourmandise. Moreover, Moreover, of French gourmandise. just another another speciality of places are are beginning distant places returning from from distant travelers beginning to travelers returning dishes into into their their culinary reperincorporate international dishes incorporate international toire.

METS INsoLIrEs INSOLITES UNUSUAL FOODS. MErs

One One importer importer of of exotic exotic produce, produce, M. M. Paul Paul Corcellet, Corcellet, prepares and freezes freezes unusual unusual dishes dishes to to ensure ensure a a regular regular prepares and supply suppl y for for his Parisian customers. Here Here is is the the list list he he offers: offers: West Indian buffalo, antelope or or venison, venison, crocodiles' crocodiles' tails tails with hippopotamus ragottt ragoût with with green green with American American sauce, sauce, hippopotamus peppers, boa matelote, matelote, blephant's elephant's trunk, trunk, peppers, jugged jugged monkey, monkey, boa sea turtle fricassée of of sea turtle (cooked (cooked in in white white wine), wine), bear bear pdt6, pâté, fricasste whale. braised braised reindeer's reindeer's tongue, tongue, saute sauté of ofwhaJe. of are adapted Paul Corcellet's recipes adapted to to modern modern methods methods of recipes are older recipes some much are sorne food food preparation, preparation, but but there there are much older recipes such rare some of of the mystique still retain sorne which still mystique that that befits befits such rare meats: meats: following the following AUTRIcHE BouILLIE BOUILLIE -- Place Place the Boiled ostrich. AUTRICHE pot: pepper, cooking pot: an earthenware cook.ing pepper, mint, mint, ingredients in in an dates, caryota dates, seeds, ordinary ordinary or or caryota celery seeds, toasted cumin, wild toasted wild celery garum, and aa little Bring this oil. Bring little oil. this honey, vinegar, raisin wine, garum, arrowroot. or arrowroot. with cornfiour cornflour or mixture to to the boil boil then bind bind with coat serving dish; dish; coat pieces of boiled ostrich on on aa serving Arrange the pieces Arrange pepper. Serve. Serve. with pepper. sauce and sprinkJe sprinkle with with the sauce rinse aa and thoroughly thoroughly rinse Purge, blanch BUFFLE -- Purge, blanch and Buffalo. BUffLE all trace trace it to remove ail to remove mvzzle, then scrape and singe it buffalo's muzzle, buffalo's

grape cure cure grapes for foraagrape Colman-Belgique grapes Colman-Belgique ( Nicolas.) Phot'Nicolas.) Fauchon. Phol. (Fauchon.

949 949

URANOSCOPUS URANOSCOPUS good stock of hair. hair. Sim Simmer in aa good stock for for 33 hours. hours. Check from lime time Check from of mer in see if to time time to to see if itit isis cooked, cooked, then place on drain and then drain and place serving on aa serving to good, highly-seasoned dish. Coat Coat with with aa good. highly-seasoned Hachée (see Hachte sauce sauce (see dish. SAUCE). Serve. Serve. SAUCE). Elephants'feet. (rnos D') fu"fpnnrrs (PIEDS o') -- Take Take the of one one the feet feet of Elephants' fee!. ÉLÉPHANTS young e1ephants several young purge them or several elephants and and purge them in in warm warm water for for or hours. Remove Remove the the skin skin and and bones, bones, then then eut cut each each foot foot 44 hours. into four pieces; cut four pieces, lengthwise into cut each each of of these in half. these in half. Blanch Blanch lengthwise for 15 l5 minutes, minutes, rinse rinse in in cold cold water, water, and and drain. drain. for Place the the following following in in aa tightly tightly covered covered stewpan: stewpan: 22 slices slices Place portioned feet, Bayonne ham, ham, the the portioned feet, 44 onions, garlic, onions, 1I head head of of garlic, Bayonne spices, I boule some spices.1 bottle Madeira Madeira wine. (4 tablewine, 33 tablespoons tablespoons (4 tablesorne spoons) concentrated concentrated stock. gently over stock. Coyer Cover and and sim simmer over aa spoons) mer gently low heat for 10 l0 hours. heat for hours. Thoroughly Thoroughly skim skim the cooking cooking liquor, liquor, low glass of port strain ilit and and add add 1I glass port and and 50 small small green peppers. s!rain that the See that the sauce sauce is is weIl well seasoned. seasoned. See Filleb of of sautéed saut6ed kllugaroo. (rtrnrs DE)kangaroo. KANGAROU KANGARou SAUTÉS slurts (FILETS oe) FIDets Remove the the two two fillets fillets of of aa kangaroo. kangaroo, trim, trim, season, season, and Remove pan coated in aa fiat arrange in flat pan coated with with melted melted butter. butter. Prepare Prepare a arrange gravy stock little gravy stock using using the bones bones and and scraps scraps of the animal. of the little it, skim skim off Strain it, off the the fat, fat, and (* cup) and add add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (t Strain vinegar into into aa saucepan saucepan and and add add aa bouquel bouquet garni. Boil down vinegar (see SAUCE) as for for aa Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE) until aa light sauce is is as obtained. Cook Cook rapidly rapidly for for aa few few minutes then then reduce reduce the the obtained. heat and and add add 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) redcurrant tablespoons (3 redcurrantjelly heat jelly and aa sliver sliver oflemon rind. Ten of lernon rind. Ten minutes of minutes later add a handful of and previously soaked in small curranls currants previously in warm warm wàter. water. Cook for for small about an an hour. hour. At At the the last minute add add the fiJlets fillets and and poach about gently. Drain Drain them, them, and serve coated with the sauce. gently. .

This isis aa rare rare and and excellent excellent dish. dish. This pERRoeTJET - Roast Parrot PERROQUET pepthe bird. Pound some Parrot. bird. Pound some pep- Roast the percorns, lovage, lovage, wild wild celery celery seeds, seeds, roasted roasted sesame sesame seeds, seeds, percorns. mint, dried dried onion onion and and caryota caryota dates dates with with honey, honey, oil oil parsley, mint, and cooked cooked wine. wine. Blend Blend these these ingredients thoroughly thoroughly totoand gether. Serve parrot. Serve with with the the roast roast parrot. gether.

URANOSCOPUS. URANOSCOPE uRANoscopE -- Species Species of of fish URANOSCOPUS. fish found found in in warm and and temperate temperate seas. seas. The The only warm only type type of of uranoscopus uranoscopus found on on the the coasts coasts of of France, France, very rare in found in the the Atlantic Atlantic Ocean Ocian but common common in in the the Mediterranean, is is the bul the uranoscoperral uranoscoperrat or or white hogfish. !ts Its fiesb, flesh, mediocre mediocre in quality, quality, is used in making white bouillabaisse. bouillabaisse. LJRTICARIA. URTICAlRE unflcxns -- Skin Skin eruption erirption accompanied accompanied by URTICARIA. by itching, similar similar to to Ihat that caused caused by by aa stinging stinging nettle. nettle. Jt itching, It affects people without any certain people any apparent apparent cause cause but certain but usually after after eaten such such foods foods as as strawberries, strawberries, fish and shellfish. they have eaten Treatment-consists desensitizing the person by Treatmenl consÎsts of desensitizing the person by giving portion of him aa sm small ofthe him ail portion the offending food one hour before is beforeitil is meal. to be served at the me al. If the food that causes the ili ill effecls effects is is consult the doctor. not known, consull 'pertaining to grapes'. More LML -- French word word meaning 'pertaining UVAL particularly the the word word is used grape used in the the phrase cure uvale, uvale, grape particuJarly cure, aa health treatment consisting of raw raw grapes and and fresh cure, grape juice. At the the season grapes are season when are ripe, ripe, counters grape juice. At when grapes juice are where fresh fresh grapes and and grape juice are sold sold may be seen in where places, sueh such as the big railway railway stations stations in Paris and the certain places, called stations uvales. producing centres. They are ca lIed stations grape producing

950 950

VACHERIN 'crowns' VACHERIN -- Sweet (dessert) made with meringue meringue'crowns' pastry base, mounted mounted one one on on top top of the the other other on on aa sweet pastry decorated decorated with bag and forcing bag with meringue piped through aa forcing dried out in a very low oven; or wi th circles of with of almond paste similarly similarly mounted on top of These are filled either of each other. These (see CREA MS), ice with with Chantilly ice cream cream flavoured Chantilly cream cream (see CREAMS), with vanilla, or with sorne flavouring, or with aa bombe some other flavouring, mixture. mixture. Vacherin paste crown. Vacherin with vACHERIN AVEC AVEc with almond almond paste crown. VACHERIN pArn D'AMANDESCOURONNE couRoNNE EN rN PÂTE D'IMINDES (18 oz., g. (18 Almond pasle. paste. Pound finely in Almond in aa mortar 500 500 g. oz., 4 cups) sweet sweet almonds almonds including including a few bitter almonds about 25 g. (1 (l oz., pounding with thejuice oz.,l cup). Moisten of half Moisten while pounding the juice ofhalf a lemon. Put the almonds almonds in a copper copper pan with 500 g. (18 oz., 4 cups) cups) icing (confectioners' sugar) white. Mix and an an egg egg white. sugar) and welJ. well. Dry Dry out with the Cook the out over over heat, heat, stirring the spatula. spatula. Cook stirring with almonds, stirring stirring ail all the time, until the paste no longer sticks pan from pressed. Remove to to the finger when from the heat, when pressed. Remove the pan spread out the paste paste on marble, tum spatula so that it turn with the spatula (l| teaspoons) gum tragacanth cools equally. Add to g. (Ii to it 5 g. teaspoons) gum dissolved dissolved in water. Ta To make into aa make the the vacherin. vacherin Roll Roll out the paste into out sorne some of the circle 20 cm. cm. (8 inches) in diameter and and 5 mm. G inch) thick. paste make With With the 15 cm. cm. (6 the remaining remaining paste circle 15 make another another circle (2 inches) inches) inches) wide and both in in aa low cm. (2 inches) thick. thick. Dry both and 55 cm. oyen. oven.

paper sprinkled with sugar. Place the the larger circle on sugar. Fix on paper the sm aller circle on top of smaller rather stiff stiff Royal icing of this with rather (see lCING), put into (see ICING), and colour. Cool Cool cominto the and put the oyen oven to to colour. plate, Fill with firm firm Chantilly pletely and and place on on aa serving serving plate. (see CREA cream (see with vanilla vanilla or or other other MS), flavoured cream CREAMS), flavoured with flavouring. flavouring. Vacherin Vacherin with vAcHERIN AVEC AVEC with crown of meringue. meringue. VACHERIN crown of COURONNE couRoNNE DE MERINGUE circles of of MERTNGUn -- With aa forcing bag make circles plain meringue (q.v.) on buttered and sheets, floured baking sheets, and fioured the diameter of the rings varying according to the size of the the prepared. Sprinkle with fine sugar and cook sweet to be prepared. cook in the the oyen oven at at low heat until the meringue meringue is weI.! well dried. dried. Put on aa baking sheet, other. Coat them them sheet, one on top of the other. pipe, decorate with meringue. meringue. Using aa pipe, this 'box' with more decorate this meringue, sprinkle it with sugar and dry it again in in the oyen. oven. (see Fill the Fill the box box with with sugar sugar cooked cooked to to the the crack crack stage stage (see SUGAR), (see DOUGH). SUGAR), added to DOUGH). to aa base base of Chou pastry 11(see quite cold, When with stiffly stiffy beaten, cold, fill When the the vacherin vacherin is is quite fill with vanilla-flavoured cream, rounded into aa dome. vanilla-flavoured dome.

±

VACHERIN VACHERIN -- See See CHEESE. (Caf6) -- See BYGONE V ACHETTE (Café) URANTS OF VACHETTE RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE See RESTA DAYS.

(±

VAISSELLE -- French 'vessel') for for VAISSELLE French collective collective term (literally 'vesse\') all the plates and dishes used for the table, the kitchen and and the the ail house. Vaisselle plate, i.e. house. ver (cf. plate isis plate, i.e. dishes, dishes, etc., etc., of sil silver Vaisselle plate (See SILVERWARE, Spanish Spanish plata, plata, silver). PORCELAIN, silver). (See SILVERWARE, PORCELAIN, FAYENCE.) FATENCE.) VALENÇAY VALENCAY -- See See CHEESE. CHEESE.

VALENCIA. VALENCEVALENCIA. In Paris, vALENcE - Describes Spanish Spanish oranges. In by extension, extension, it is is used to describe ail all oranges. oranges. to describe

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(A LA) ALEN CIEN NES (À V VALENCIENNES applied in in Method of cooking, cooking, applied LA) -- Method particular to garnish. particular to chicken, chicken, which which includes includes aa rice garoish.

*

VALESNIKI V ALESNIKI -- Preparation made made with with cream cream cheese cheese in in the the (See HORS-D'ŒUVRE, style style of kromeskies. (See of kromeskies. HORS-D'(EUVRE, Hot Hot horshorsd'œuvre.) d'cuvre.) (A LA) VALOIS (À dishes and and pastries. LA) -- Name Name for for various various dishes Jules finished off off with with sauce finished Jules Gouffé Gouffd described described aa béarnaise biarnaise sauce glaze as meat meat glaze as Valois Valois sauce. (Caf6 de) VALOIS (Café VALOIS de) -- See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE OF BYGONE DAYS. DAYS.

Vacherin with with strawberries strawberries (Nezard-Debillol. ( N ezard- De billo t. Phol. P ho t. Larousse) Larousse )

plant, aa native VANILLA. VANILLE native of of vANILLE -- Pod Pod of of aa climbing climbing plant, pods Mexico, and cultivated in various tropical The pods regions. The tropical regions. plunged into are gathered before ripe, plunged into are gathered before they they are are completely completely ripe, 951 951

VANILLA SUGAR VANILLASUGAR periods the great cooks have handed on their professional work in writing. 'But even if if Vatel Vatel was only a maître h6tel, he was part of maitre dd'hôtel, the structure. 'Oh, you who by profession preside preside at meals Spare him some sorne regrets, but but do not imitate imitate him.' (Phil6as (Philéas Gilbert.) (Vatel committed committed suicide.) suicide.) Branch Brancb ofvanilla of vaniJia with witb flowers Howers and and pods

VATRUSHKI (Russian cookery) -- Small Small open tarts made

with Brioche with Brioche dough dough (see (see DOUGH), with cream cheese or DOUGH), filled with other compositions. Vatrusbki witb VATRUSHKI AU AU FRoMAGE FROMAGE Vatrushki with cream cream cbeese. cheese. vATRUSHKT BLANC - Make Make and and roll roll out sorne ordinary BLANc out some ordinary unsweetened Brioche Brioche dougft dough (see (see DOUGH). with aa fiuted-edged DOUGH). Cut with fluted-edged pastry(4 inches) in diameter. cutter into pieces pieces l0 10 cm. cm. (4 diameter. Fill with cream cream cheese. edges of the dough, put on a baking tray, Crimp up the edges oYen for for 15 15 to to 18 18 brush over with egg, and bake in aa slow oven minutes. l.wirth Lining Vatrushki can can also be made made with Lining paste paste (see Vatrushki also be DOUGH) DOUGH) or with Coulibiac dough (see COULIBIAC). Vatrusbki with witb onion. ouion. vATRUSHKT VATRUSHKI A À r'otcNotl L'OIGNON -- Prepare Vatrushki Prepare as Vatrushki with cream cream cheese, replacing the cheese with onion pur6e purée blended blended with a thick Velouté sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Veloutd sauce

boiling water, then, before they are are quite dry, shut in tins, where their aroma develops. develops. The best best quality quality pods, pods, very their aroma smooth smooth in in flavour, fiavour, are are covered covered with with a a frost frost of vanilline vanilline crystals. Three kinds of of vanilla vanilla are sold commercially: commercially: crystals. Three 1. Fine vanilla, vanilla, the pod 20 to 30 cm. (8 to 12 12 inches) inches) long, the surface surface black, smooth and frosted. 2. 2. Woody Woody vanilla, vanilla, the pods 12 12 to 20 cm. (5 to 88 inches) inches) long, reddish-brown, dry and and dull dull and and not not much reddish-brown, the the surface surface dry frosted. 3. 3. Vanillons, Vanillons, 10 10 to to 12 12 cm. to 5 inches) long, the pods pods cm. (4 to thicker, thicker, flat fiat and and soft, soft, almost almost always always opened opened and and rarely rarely frosted, the scent scent stronger and aa little little bitter. bitter. Yet another another sort of vanilla exists which comes cornes from from the Indies, yellowish in colour colour and almost scentless. scentless. The Mexican Mexican vanilla is the most highly esteemed; after after it come ofGuiana, Guadaloupe and and of of R6union. Réunion. come those those of Guiana, Guadaloupe Vanilla much used used as as an an aromatic aromatic flavouring, fiavouring, either either in its i ts Vanilla is much original original form, form, in powder powder form, form, or or as as an extract, extract It It is sometimes sometimes falsified, either by emptying emptying the pods and filling them them with a a neutral paste paste or by brushing brushing ordinary vanilla with Peruvian balsam to frost them artificially artificially with benzoic benzoic acid acid crystals. crystals. Always use the vanilla vanilla pod in preference preference to powder or essence.

V.D.Q.S. (Vins (Vins d6limites délimités de de qualit6 qualité supérieure) WINE. V.D.Q.S. sup6rieure) -- See WINE. VEAL. VEAU -- Flesh of of calf, i.e. young of the cow. The best VEAL. cornes from animals animais aged 2l 2i to 3 months, fed fed on milk meat comes It must must be white white with with aa slight slight greenish greenish tinge tinge (reddish and eggs. It given solid food). coloration shows that the animal has been given It is not greasy to the touch like pork: its fat is white and and smells smells of milk. Veal Veal killed killed too too young young is is more satiny and satiny gelatinous and of of less nutritional nutritional value. value. three categories categories so so far as as market market value Veal is divided into three concerned. Since Since veal butchering butchering differs differs in France, France, England is concerned. cuts designated designated are the nearest nearest and the U.S.A., the joints or cuts approximations rather rather than equivalents. equivalents. approximations Cul or or Quasi Quasi (English, (English, chump end end of loin; loin; U.S.A., U.S.A., l.1. Cul standing rump. rump. .l/oix Noix (English, (English, topside; topside; U.S.A., U.S.A., rump). rump). standing (English, fillet fillet end end of leg; leg; U.S.A., U.S.A., round round roast). Rouelle (English, (English and and U.S.A., loin loin with with or or without without kidney. Longe (English Carré (pnglish, (J;:nglish, best best end of of neck; U.S.A., U.S.A., rib roast). roast). Carrt 2. Epaule Épaule (English (English and U.S.A., shoulder). shoulder). Basses-c6tes Basses-côtes 2. and U.S.A., (English, (English, end end chops; chops; U.S.A., U.S.A., shoulder shoulder chops). chops). Poitrine Poitrine (English (English and U.S.A., U.S.A., breast). Ventre (English,'belly; (English, 'belly; U.S.A., U.S.A., flank). flank). 3. 3. Collet Collet (English (English and and U.S.A., U.S.A., neck). neck). Jarret Jarret (English, knuckle;; U.S.A., U.S.A., shank). shank). knuckle veal. AMoURETTES AMOURETTES DE DE vEAU VEAU - In ln French Amourettes of veal. cookery the spinal marrow of of veal is known as atnourettes. amourettes. cookery The substance substance of this marrow has has a great great resemblance resemblance to 's brains, and all calf's ail the methods of of preparing preparing the latter are calf applicable to to arnourettes. amourettes. It may, like like the the brains, be prepared applicable as is used used as as an as a a dish dish by itself; more often, however, it is ingredient ingredient of of a a garnish. garnish. (See (See OFFAL OFF AL or or VARIETY VARIETY MEATS.) MEATS.) Veal blanquette. blanquette. BLANeUETTE BLANQUETTE DE vEAU VEAU -- Cut Cut into pieces pieces 750 Veal g. (l* (Ii lb.) veal taken from the shoulder, the breast, or end shaIJow saucepan sauce pan with (shoulder chops). Put into a shallow chops (shoulder white stock, light broth or plain water to cover coyer the enough white meat. meaL Add salt salt and and bring bring to the boil, removing removing all aIl scum. carro t, an onion stuck with a clove, a leek and and a Add a carrot, bouquet garni garni composed parsley, thyme, thyme, bay leaf and bouquet composed of parsley, celery. Cook Cook very slowly slowly for l|.hours. lihours. celery. Thicken three-quarters three-quarters of of the cooking cooking liquor liquor with 50 g. (2 Thicken of butter and fiour sauce or a oz., Ii- cup) each of flour roux. Use this sau@ Velouté sauce (see SAUCE), and and add add to to it a a handful handful of Velouti

VANILLA SUGAR SUGAR -- Sugar Sugar flavoured flavoured with vanilla. vanilla. VANILLA

VANNERVANNER - Culinary Culinary term term for for stirring stirring a sauce sauce with with a spoon spoon to make make it smooth and and keep a skin from forming. fonning. VARENIKI -- See See HORS-D'(EUVRE, HORS-D'ŒUVRE, Hot hors-d'euvre. hors-d'œuvre. VARENIKI

VARIETES VARIÉTÉS (Caf6 (Café des) des) - See See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE BYGONE DAYS. VARIETY VARIETY MEATSMEATS ---' See See OFFAL. OFFAL. VASQUE VASQUE -- Shallow Shallow bowl, bowl, generally generally round round in shape, shape, made made of crystal, moulded moulded glass, china, silver, sil ver, used used for serving cold foods, chaud-froids, chaud-froids, mousses,lfoie mousses,joie gras gras en gelie, gelée, etc. etc. Fresh fruit, cooked fruit, liquid custards and and other cold sweets are also served served in vasques. sweets are

maître dhdtel, d' hôtel, born in 1635 of of Swiss Swiss VATEL -- Celebrated maitre parentage, in 167 1671. parentage, who who died died in |. legend, three centuries old, presents presents Vatel Vatel to us us as the 'A legend, great great master-cook master-cook of of the Louis Louis XIV era. Let Let us speak speak solely and briefly briefly of of Vatel, Vatel, and ask ourselves ourselves whether the echo of Vatel's Vatel's culinary culinary genius would would have have come come down down to us without without the the witty witt y gossip gossip of of Madame Madame de de S6vign6. Sévigné. 'Nothing 'Nothing has has come down to us us from him, him, and yet in all ail

952 952 Veal: roast roast loin loin garnished with wilh carrots, carroIs, peas, peas, asparagus, asparagus, Veal: French beans beans and and potatoes potatoes (.Lasserre. (Lasserre. Phot. Nicolas) French

.

ff

VEAL VEAL

(rosse (rosse

Jorret Jarre t (uisseou (Noix) Ro u e

lles

bo rd6

Ionge

Tendron

Filet

dtelettes premiires (6telettes d6rouvertes

Poit rine

(6te (ôte

(Flonchot)

(ollet ofveal cuts ofveal French cuts French

prepared with in cut in with celeriac celeriac eut also be be prepared may also Yeal blanquette blanquette may Veal quarters, half-cooked or halved halved celery hearts; hearts; in butter, butter, or half-cooked in quarters, in for 33 minutes in blanched for and blanched into chunks chunks and cut into cucumbers eut cucumbers in half; half; cut in hearts eut lettuce hearts water; braised braised lettuce salted water; boiling salted boiling and stewed stewed leeks, sliced sliced and or leeks, celery or matignon;carrots, turnips, celery matignon; carrots, turnips, in butter. butter. in vsau ÀA DE VEAU BLANQUETTE DE I'ancienne. BLANQUETTE Veal blanquette blanquette ài l'ancienne. Veal (see I'ancienne (see of lamb lamb àd l'ancienne Blanquette of L'ANcIENNE -- Like Like Blanquette L'ANCIENNE LAMB). LAMB). boned, usually boned, This eut cut isis usually De VEAU vEau -- This IoITRINE DE Breast ofveal. of veal. POITRJNE Breast ragor2ts' Stuff Stuff make ragoûts. used to to make also be be used braised. 1Itt may may also stuffed and and braised. stuffed with the following forcemeat: forcemeat: the following with pork forcemeat (see (2i lb.) Fine pork Add 1I kg. kg. (2* lb.) Fine Add (6 oz., l| cups) chopped onion oz., 11 FORCEMEAT), 175 175 g. (6 FORCEMEAT), of chopped chopped and 1I tablespoon of in butter and cooked until until tender tender in cooked pepper with salt, salt, pepper parsley, and Season with with aa whole whole egg. egg.Season bind with and bind parsley, mix weil. well. spices and and mix and spices and quenelle with quenelle be stuffed stuffed with also be The boned may also breast may boned breast The

in the the (from the to be be used used in mushrooms to the mushrooms mushroom mushroom trimmings trimmings (from to time. time. from time time to 15 minutes, minutes, stirring stirring from blanquette). for 15 blanquette). Cook Cook for Remove any any liquid. Remove pieces of from the the liquid. of veal veal from Remove Remove the the pieces in aa sauté saut6 meat in Put the the meat become loose. loose. Put little which have little bones bones which have become in aa flour-andflour-andpreviously cooked cooked in pan with pan with 12 12 small small onions onions previously the Strain the mushrooms. Strain 12 peeled mushrooms. watet court-bouillon, water court-bouillon, and and 12 yolks and l| and 11 with 33 egg egg yolks sauce bag, thicken with sauce through aa muslin muslin bag, pour over veal. pint, over the the veal. and pour dl. (i cream, and dl. t, ? cup) cream, $ pin "up) of lemon grated nutmeg squeeze oflemon and aa squeeze nutmeg and little grated Season aa little Season with juice. Keep taking covered, taking of the the stove, stove, covered, corner of Keep warm wann on on aa corner juice. in fried in of bread fried with croûtons crofitons ofbread care that not boil. boil. Serve Serve with care that itit does does not butter. butter. DE various garnishes. BLANQUETTEDE Veal Veal blanquette with various blanquette with as Prepare the blanquette as DIvERsEs -- Prepare VEAU AVEC AvEc GARNITURES GARNITURES DIVERSES VEAU the After the first cooking, and after the preceding recipe. After the first in in the the preceding put them in the the sauté saut6 them backin pieces of drained, put pieces veal have ofveal have been drained, the strained strained Pour over over the pan with prescribed vegetables. vegetables. Pour pan with the the prescribed way. in the the usual usual way. sauce finishcooking cooking in sauce and and finish 953 953 Veal chops d /a vimnoise ( Phot. Nicolas)

VEAL VEAL

Knuchle |(I{U(|(TE

with fillet cnd

of

leg

Fillet steok

Fillet Io in

Breost

Best end

of nerk

HoU Holf shoulder shoulder tiddle

nerk

Shoulder Englisb of veal English cuts cuts ofveal

Stuffing or veal Stuffing for breast of of veal. veal. Add Add to chopped beef to chopped beef or veal for breast kidney chopped kidney the the same quantity of same quantity of chopped veal veal udder udder and and breadcrumbs pressed. Bind tbis forcemeat breadcrumbs soaked soaked in milk and in milk and pressed. Bind this forcemeat with 22 eggs (2i lb.), and season. with eggs to to every every 1I kg. kg. (2f lb.), and season. Brochettes DE VEAU - Cut some tillet of Brochettes ofveal. of veal. BROCHETTES BRocHErrEs DE vEAU - Cut some fillet of veal into (3 inches) thick. Put them on veal pieces about into pieces about 7-} 7l cm. cm. (3 inches) thick. Put them on skewers ternately wi th blanched pieces of bacon. Season the skewers al alternately with blanched pieces of bacon. Season the meat on the dip in melted butter, co ver them with meat on the skewers, skewers, dip in melted butter, cover them with breadcrumbs, sprinkle with more melted butter and cook breadcrumbs, sprinkle with more melted butter and cook under the the grill. grill. under Carré de de Yeau veau - See Rib ofveal below. Carr6 - See RD of veal below. CÔTES DE VEAU - These cuts, taken from the best Veal chope. chops. cOrrs Veal os vEAu - These cuts, taken from the best end of of loin, loin, must must not not be too thin. end be too thin. chops are usually sprinkled with their boiled down Veal Veal chops are usually sprinkled with their boiled down juices and sautéed in butter. They may be gamished in juices and sautded in butter. They may be garnished in various ways, but should always be sprinkled first with their various ways, bui should always be sprinkled first with their own cookingjuices. juices. own cooking Veal chops may also be grilled. They are served Veal chops may also be grilled. They are served with with

forcemeat, fine fine pork forcemeat mixed mixed with with chopped chopped spinach forcemeat, spinach

lightly cooked cooked in in butter, butter, sausage meat mixed mixed with with dry lightly sausage meat dry

duxelles, etc. duxelles, The cooking cooking time time for for aa stuffed stuffed breast breast of of veal veal weighing weighing 55 kg. kg. The is 3| 3!- to to 4 4 hours. hours. For For the the merhod method of of braising braising see (l(IlI lb.) is see CULINARY METHODS. METHODS. CULINARY Breast of veal à l'ailemande. POITRINE DE VEAU Breast of veal i I'allemande. porrRrNE DE VEAU AÀ L'ALLEMANDE - Poach in light light stock stock aa breast breast of ofveal stuffed as as L'ALLEMANDn veal stuffed - Poach in above. Serve Serve surrounded surrounded by by carrots, carrots, leeks, leeks, etc., etc., that that have have above. been cooked cooked with with it; it; serve serve with with hot hot Horseradish Horseradish sauce sauce isee (see been SAUCE). sAUCE). Breast of of veal veal ià I'alsacienne. l'alsacienne. porrRrNE POITRINE DE DE VEAU À Breast vEAU A L'ALSACIENNE - Braise the breast breast until until itit is is half half cooked, cooked, then then t'ALsr,crENNE - Braise the finish offin off in the the braising braising pan pan with with blanched blanched sauerkraut. sauerkraut. finish Breast of ofveal l'anglaise. porrRINE POITRINE DE DE vEAU VEAU A À r'.q,Nct,.qlsr L'ANGLAISEBreast veal dà I'anglaise. Stuff the the breast breast with with the the forcemeat forcemeat described described below, below, and and Stuff poach itit gently gently in in aa light light stock stock or or salted salted water. water. Serve Serve with with poach boiled bacon. bacon. boiled 954 954

VEAL

VEAL

Round roost

Loin steak

Breost

Rib

shoulder Rolled shoulder Rolled

'[ity

thicken'

of veal cutsofveal AmericanculS American

with jelly linedwith dishlined deepdish dishorordeep hors-d'auvredish intoan anhors-d'œuvre Putinto Put jelly (carrots and turnips in vegetables(carrots mixedvegetables withmixed anddecorated decorated with and and turnips in chops the Cover etc')'Co ver the chops beans,etc.). Frenchbeans, peas,diced dicedFrench balls,peas, littleballs, little melted jelly' halfmelted withhalf dishwith thedish Fillthe liquor.Fil! cookingliquor. theircooking withtheir with jelly. ice. on well Chill ChilI weil on ice. with chopped garnish and dish to a on chops Turnout outthe thechops on to a dish and garnish with chopped Turn jelly. jelly. BoNNE vBluÀ ALALABONNE c6rrsDEorVEAU femme.CÔTES bonnefemme. Vealchops chopsà Alalabonne Veal earthenware lightlyininananearthenware chopslightly seasonedchops Cbokseasoned FEMME- -Cook FEMME each chop, foreach Add,for sides.Add, bothsides. themononboth browningthem casserole,browning casserole, chop, lightlyinin friedlightly andfried blanchedand bacon,blanched leunbacon, small lardoonsofoflean 6 6smalllardoons (or equal an potatoes newpotatoes (or an equal and1212new friedonions onionsand smallfried butter,6 6smaU butter, partly cooked olives), like look to potatoes cut quantity of old quantity of old potatoes cut to look like olives), partly cooked tablespoons(t(iqfp) Add6 6tablespoons oven.Add gentlyininthe theoven. Cookgently Uutter.Cook ininbutter. cup) which casseroleininwhich thecasserole serveininthe gravyand andserve browngravy thickenedbrown thickened cooked. werecooked. theywere they Name for a BoucutnsYEAUBOUCHÈRE c6rsDEorVEAU bouchire.CÔTE chopbouchère. Vealchop Veal - Name for a trimmed' nottrimmed. andnot neckand theneck endofofthe collarend fromthe thecollar takenfrom chchop op taken

butters)oror Maître (seeBUTTER, Contpound bUl/ers) BUTTER,Compound butter(see d'h6tel bulter Mattre d'hôlel grilledmeat. meat. any withgrilled served with usuallyserved anyother othersauce sauceusually L'aNcInNNE- Veal vEAUÀAL'ANCIENNE DEVEAU c6resDE I'ancienne.CÔTES chopsài l'ancienne. Vealchops witha a Surround with Cook browning.Surround withoutbrowning. butterwithout chops ininbutter Cook 66chops lambs' kidneys,lambs' garnish andkidneys, combsand cocks'combs garnishcomposed ofcocks' composed of and Madeiraand sweetbreads, heatedininMadeira mushrooms,heated andmushrooms, trufresand Jweetbreads,truffles with (seeSAUCE) dilutedwith bound SAUCE)diluted sauce(see Veloutisauce withchicken chickenVelouté boundwith cream. cream. quantitiesofof equalquantities Dilute juiceswith addequal withMadeira, Madeira,add panjuices thepan Dilutethe cream' andcream. concentrated stockand vealstock brownveal thickened brown andthickened concentratedand chops' thechops. pourover overthe Simmer andpour strain,and butter,strain, down.add addbutter, Simmerdown, Season Veal BAsILIc- -Season AUBASILIC vEAUAU c6rnsDEonVEAU basil.CÔTES withbasil. chopswith Vealchops Drain' butter'Drain. chops pepperand saut6ininbutter. andsauté andpepper withsalt saltand chopswith juiceswith panjuices with Sprinkle thepan dilutingthe midebybydiluting witha asauce saucemade Sprinklewith vealstock, stock,t I white tablespoonsveal fewtablespoons addinga afew wineand whitewine andadding teaspoon butter. andbutter. basil,and choppedbasil, teaspoonchopped BELLEvUE- Veal vEAUBELLEVUE (cold).CÔTES cOrrsDEoeVEAU Bellevue(cold). chopeBellevue Vealchops Braise liquor. theliquor. coolininthe thick;letletcool ratherthick; cutrather chopi,cut Braisechops, 95s 955

VEAL

VEAL

Veal Veal ----------~--------------~

breast/ribs breast/ribs

loin

topside topside

knuckle 2.2. kidneys kidneys 1.l. knuckle

This cut is generally grilled, but it can also be saut6ed in This cut is generally grilled, but it can also be sautéed in butter.

in aa casserole, remove, ghops in remove, and and replace with sorne chops some of the the following garnishes garnishes by cooking cooking ail all together: following Aubergines cut in pieces, sautéed saut6ed in butter or oil; glazed Aubergines cut in pieces, $azed carrots (either (either small new carrots or large small new large carrots cut into oval carrots pieces); simmered in butter; in oval pieces and simmered pieces); celeriac celeriac cut in cipes saut6ed in butter: cèpes or or cultivated cultivated mushrooms, sautéed butter; cucumberi cucumbers cut cut into into large large olive-shaped olive-shaped pieces, pieces, cooked cooked in butter; butter; artichoke artichoke bottoms bottoms in in quarters; quarters; French French beans beans cooked cooked in in water and tossed tossed in in butter; butter; glazed turnips (also cut into olive-shaped olive-shaped pieces); cooked in in aa flour flour and and wat water court-bouillon and pieces); salsify, salsify, cooked er court-bouiilonind, saut6ed sautéed in in butter; butter; Jerusalem Jerusalem artichokes artichokes cooked cooked in in butter. butter. The The following following may may also also be be used, used, but but should be be added added only only when meat is is completely completely cooked: cooked: braised braised chicory; chicory; when the the meat Brussels Brussels sprouts, sprouts, lightly lightly fried fried in in butter; butter; cauliflower cauliflower flowerets flowerets saut6ed sautéed in in butter; butter; braised braised endive endive;; leaf leaf spinach spinach chopped chopped with with butter butter or or cream; cream; new new broad broad beans beans with with buttei; butter; stewed stewed gumbos gumbos (okra (ok.ra or or ladies' ladies' fingers) fingers) with with tomato; tomato; hop hop shoots shoots in in butter; butter; flageolet flageolet beans beans in in butter: butter; French French beans beans in in butter butter or or cream; cream; braised braised lettuce; lettuce; braised braised chestnuts: chestnuts; noodles noodles in in butter: butter; pur6e purée of of sorrel; sorrel; peas peas in in butter butter or or dà lala fiangaise; française; quartered quartered tomatoes, tomatoes, stewed stewed inin butter. butter. Veal Veal chopc cbops chasseur. cbasseur. c6rEs CÔTES DE DE vEAU VEAU cHAssEUR CHASSEUR -- prepare Prepare -._ like likeMutton Mutton chops chopschassezr chasseur(see (seeMUTTON) MUTTON). Veal Vealchops cbopschaud-froid. cbaud-froid.cOrEs CÔTESDE DEVEAU VEAUEN ENcHAuD-rnon CHAUD-FROID-- In In white white sauce. sauce. Cook Cook chops chops in in butter butter without without letting letting them them colour. Coat with witb Chaud-froid Chaud-froid saice sauce (see (see colour. Allow Allow to to cool. cool. Coat SAUCE), juices diluted whicbthe tbepan panjuices dilutedwith withMadeira Madeiraororany any SA UCE),totowhich other otherwine winehave havebeen beenadded. added. Garnishthe thetop topofofeach eachchop chopwith withtruffies, truffies,pickled pickledtongue, tongue, - Garnish lean jelly. Chilt leanham, ham,tarragonleaves, tarragon leaves,etc. etc. Glazewith Glaze withjelly. Chillwett]Sei weil. Set on onaadish dishand andgarnish garnishwith withchopped choppedjelly. jelly. InIn brown brownsauce. sauce. Braise Braisethe thechops, chops,browning browningthem. them. Allow Allow

It is served as it is, butter. It is served as it is, accompanied accompanied by by vegetables vegetables to to taste. taste. Veal chops bourguignonne. cOrES DE vEAU BouRcurcNoNNE Veal chops bourguignonne. CÔTES DE VEAU BOURGUlGNONNE Saut6 in butter. -- Sauté chops chops in butter. When Wh en half half cooked cooked add add for for each each chop chop 6 small g)azedonions, 4 small mushrooms and 6lardoon. oi 6 small glazed onions, 4 small mushrooms and 61ardoons of lean, blanched bacon. Cook all together. Set the chops on a lean, blanched bacon. Cook ail together. Set the chops on a serving dish. Dilute the pan juices with red wine, thicken with dish. Dilute the panjuices with red wine, thicken with aserving tablespoon Kneaded a tablespoon Kneaded butter butter (see (see BUTTE,P., BUTTER, Compound Compound butters), add a teaspoon meat jelly, boil down, add butter, add a teaspoon meat jelly, boil down, add butter, butters), and pour over the chops. and pour over the cbops. veal chops. DE vEAU snArsfEs _ ?rdryl Braised veal cbops. cdrns CÔTES DE VEAU BRAISÉES - Cut Cut the the chops chops rather thick and season with salt and pepper. put them in a ratber thick and season with salt and pepper. Put them in a buttered saut6 dish lined with strips of biion rind, chopped buttered sauté dish lined with strips of bacon rind, chopped onions and carrots. Cook gently in the oven, covered, foi f O onions and carrots. Cook gently in the oyen, covered, for 10 minutes. minutes. Pour in, for each chop, I dl. (3 tablespoons, scant cup) Pour in, for each chop, ! dl. (3 tablespoons, scant +i cup) white wine and boil down. Add clear brown stock to halfwav white wine and boil down. Add clear brown stock to halfway up the meat. Add a small bouquet garni. Bingto the boil on up the meaL Add a small bouquet garni. Bring to the boil on top of the stove then cook in the oven, covered, for 45 minutes top of the stove then cook in the oyen, covered, for 45 minutes to I hour, according to size. to 1 hour, according to size. Drain the chops, set them on a dish and coat with a sauce Drain the chops, set them on a dish and coat with a sauce ma!9 b.1 straining made by straining the the braising braising liquor, liquor, removing removing all ail grease grease and boiling down. and boiling down. Braised veal chops can be accompanied by various gar. Braised veal chops can be accompanied by various garnishes. All those indicated elsewherJfor saut6ed veal ch-ops nishes. Ail tbose indicated elsewhere for sautéed veal chops are applicable. are applicable. Veal chops en casserole. cdres DE vEAU EN cAssERoLE _ Veal cbops en casserole. CÔTES DE VEAU EN CASSEROLE Season the chops with salt and pepper. Cook gently in butter Season the chops with salt and pepper. Cook gently in butter in an earthenware casserole. Sprinkle with thickened veal in an earthenware casserole. Sprinkle with thickened veal gravy and serve gravy and serveininthe thesame samecasserole. casserole. Veal chops en casserole with various garnishes. c6rps oB Veal cbops en casserole with various garnisbes. CÔTES DE vBAU EN cAssERoLE, AvEc cARMTURES DTvERSES _ Cook the VEAU EN CASSEROLE, AVEC GARNITURES DIVERSES - Cook the 956 956

VEAL VEAL (see rooms, rooms, carrots carrots and and lean lean ham, harn, bound bound with with Bdchamel Béchamel sauce sauce (see breadcrumbs' and with egg Coat and well seasoned. SAUCE) SAUCE) and weil seasoned. Coat with egg and breadcrurnbs. Cook Cook in in clarified claritied butter, butter, browning browning on on both both sides. sides. Prepare Prepare aa creamy creamy risotto risotto (see (see RICE), RICE), bind bind with with cheese cheese and and with truffies. Set addaa salpicon add salpicon of oftruffies. Set the the chop chop on on aa dish. dish. Garnish Garnish with the the trufle trufHe risotto. risotto. Pour Pour around around a a few few tablespoons tablespoons tomatotomato(3 flavoured flavoured brown brown gravy gravy and and sprinkle sprinkle with with 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (see Compound BUTTER, butter Noisette butter (see BUTTER, Compound tablespoons) tablespoons) Noisette butters). butters). A LA Ll CUSTINE cusrrNe DE vEAU c6res DE Custine. CÔTES Veal Veal chops cbops à la la Custine. VEAU À good tablespoon tablespoon with aa good one with each one 'Braise coat each 'Braise the the veal veal chops, chops, coat then in breadcrumbs, then in in the the sauce, sauce, then of of duxelles duxelles (q,v.). (q~v.). Dip Dip in breadcrumbs, th en Fry until until time. Fry second time. in breadcrumbs in and in breadcrumbs aa second in beaten beaten eggs eggs and sauce.' tomato sauce.' light tomato with aa light golden serve with and serve in butter golden in butter and (Car0me's recipe.) recipe.) (Carême's ps VEAU Ll wlu ÀA LA (old style). style). CÔTES cOrrs DE Dreux (old la Dreux Veal chops à i la Veal cbops lightly and lightly thick and rather thick cut rather veal chops, chops, eut 12 veal DREUx --'Stud DREUX 'Stud 12 with them with Tie them trufles. Tie pickled tongue and truffies. tongue and flattened, with with pickled fiattened, string. the from the trimmings from with the the trimmings 'Line aa shallow casserole with shallow casserole 'Line thin with thin gami,cover andabouquet onions and chops, 2 carrots, 22 onions a bouquet garni, coYer with over Pour over top. Pour place the on top. chops on the chops pieces of and place fat and of bacon bacon fat pieces for aa cook for and cook Madeira and of Madeira wineglass of and aa wineglass consomm6 and some consommé sorne good three-quarters hour. ofan three-quarters of good an hour. tin) baking tin) (an old-fashioned copper baking plafond (an old-fashioned copper 'Drain on on aa plafond 'Drain are they are pressure until until they under pressure them under keep them on top top to to keep cover on with aa coyer juices and grease. Boil Boil down down all grease. pan juices remove and rem cold. Strain Strain the the pan cold. ove all glaze. light glaze. to aa light to the so that that the carefully so them carefully cold, trim trim them chops are are cold, 'When the the chops 'When saut6 in aasauté them in Put them distinctly' Put be seen seen distinctly. can be tongue and and truffies trufres can tongue minutes for 15 15 minutes glaze and to sim simmer allow to and allow dish with with their their glaze dish mer for Ragoftt àd lala with aa Ragoût middle with the middle Garnish the before serving. serving. Garnish before

them themtoto cool coolininthe thebraising braisingliquor. tiquor. Drain Drain them them and and coat coat with with Brownchaud-Jroid chaud-jroidsauce sauceto to which which the the braising braising liquor Iiquor has has been been Brown Garnish and and glaze glaze with withjelly. jelly. added. Garnish added. Veal Veal chops chops en en chaud-froid chaud-froid may may be be accompanied accornpanied by by vegevege-

table salad salad bound bound with with mayonnaise, mayonnaise, halves halves of of hard hard boiled boiled table or lettuce lettuce hearts hearts. eggs or eggs Veal chops cbops en en cocotte. cocotte. c6rrs CÔTES oe DE vEAU VEAU EN EN cocorrE COCOTTE -Veal Alternative name name for for Veal Veal chops chops en en casserok' casserole. Veal Veal chops chops dà la Alternative bonnefemme femme are are also also sometimes sometimes known known by by the the same same name. name. bonne Veal chops chops en en cocotte cocotte with with various various garnishes. garnisbes. cOTEs CÔTES DE DE vEAU VEAU Veal EN cocorrr, COCOTTE, AVEc AVEC cARMTURES GARNITURES DIvERsEs DIVERSES -- Can be be accomaccomEN panied of the the garnishes garnishes given given for for Veal chops chops en panied by by any any of casserole with with various various garnishes. garnishes. casserole Veal chops cbops ià la la crime. crème. cOTEs CÔTES DE DE vEAu VEAU A À r,c, LA cRilffi CRÈME -- Saut6 Sau té the Veal chops in in butter. butter. Drain Drain and and set on a a dish. dish. Coat with with the chops juices diluted"with cookingjuices diluted with white white wine or Madeira Madeira and fresh cooking cream; boiled boiled down down and and strained. strained. cream; Add aa tablespoon tablespoon Velouti Velouté sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) to the cream Add to thicken thicken the the sauce. sauce. to Saut6 L'lNpIsNNE -- Sauté Veal chops chops ià I'indienne. l'indienne. c6rns CÔTES or DE w,c,u VEAU iÀ L'INDIENNE Veal chops in in butter. butter. When browned on both sides, put them into chops chopped onion. the pan with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped Season with I1 teaspoon teaspoon curry curry powder. Cook Cook gently, covered. SeaJon Set the chops on a dish and coat with the following sauce. Set (3 tablespoons, scant I cooking juices with !j dl. dl. (3 tablespoons, seant! Dilute the cooking (* cup) thick cream. cup) dry white wine. Add 4 tablespoons tablespoons (1 lemon squeeze of lemon Boil down down to a good consistency. Add aa squeeze consistency. Add Boil juice. Serve l'indienne (see RICE). d l'indienne Serve with Rice à in Cut aa pocket in cussY -- Cut on VEAU vEAU CUSSY c6rns DE Veal cbops chops Cussy. CÔTES of the the end of thick veal chops taken from the middle of of the best end thick mushof mushcomposed of (U.S.A. rib). with aa salpicon salpicon composed Fill with rib). Fill neck (U.S.A.

i

Veal blanquette Vealblanquette

957 957

-

VEAL and andcook cookunder undera amoderate moderategrill. grill.Set Seton puta apaper ona adish, dish,put paper frill frillon onthe thebone boneand garnishwith andgarnish withwatercress. watercress. Grilled Grilledveal vealchops chopsare generallyserved aregenerally servedasasthey theyare, butcan are,but can be beaccompanied accompaniedby byaaCompound Compound butter (seeBUTTER) butter(see BUTTER)oror sorne somekind kindof garnish,the ofgarnish, themost mostusual potatoes. usualbeing beingpotatoes. Veal Vealchops chopsài lalabongroise. hongroise.CÔTES DEVEAU c6rEsDE vEAUÀ.A.LA r,c.HONGROISEHoNcnorsn Season Seasonthe thechops chopswith withsalt paprikaand saltand andpaprika andsauté saut6them theminin butter. butter.When When they theyare arewel1 wellbrowned brownedon onboth bothsides putinto sidesput intothe the pan aagood pan goodtablespoon tablespoonchopped choppedonion, onion, cooked cookedtill tilltender tenderinin butter butter and andseasoned seasoned with paprika. Cook with paprika. gently, covered. Cookgently, covered. Drain Drain the thechops chopsand andset setthem them on onaadish. dish.Coat Coatwith withaasauce sauce made made by juiceswith bydiluting diluting the pan juices the pan withwhite white wine, wine,adding adding cream, cream, boiling boiling down downand andadding addingbutter. butter. Veal Veal chops chops àd lala languedocienne. languedocienne. CÔTES cdrss DE osVEAU vslu ÀA LALe LANGUEDOCIENNE LANcUEDocTENNE - - Sauté Saut6 44chops chopsiningoose goose fat. fat.When When they theyare are browned brownedon onboth bothsides putinto sidesput into the pan1Itablespoon thepan tablespoon chopped chopped onion onion and and22 tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) tablespoons) diced diced raw raw ham. hi*. Cook gently ail Cook gently all together. together. Add Add 1212stoned green stoned and andblanched blanched green olives olives and and aa little little chopped chopped garlic. garlic. Set Set the the chops chops on onaadish dish and and surround pour surround with potatoes cut with potatoes cut to to look look like like olives olives and fried. Pour and fried. the the sauce sauce and potatoes over and the the potatoes over the the chops. chops. Veal Veal chops chops ài la la lyonnaise. lyonnaise. CÔTES c0rrs DE DE VEAU vEAU ÀA LA r,q, LYONNAISEryoNNArsE Sauté Saut6 44 chops ch.ops in in butter. butter. Put Put into into the pan 44 tablespoons the pan ({ cup) cup) tablespoons (-jchopped onions gently cooked in butter. Finish chopped onions gently cooked in butter. Finish cooking cooting together. together. Set Set the the chops chops on on aa dish. dish. Add Add 22 tablespoons (3 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) vinegar, vinegar, 1I tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley and chopped parsley and aa little to the little meat g)azeto meat glaze the onions, pour over onions, and and pour over the tlie chops. chops. Veal Veal chops chops Maintenon. Maintenon. CÔTES cOTEs DE DE VEAU vEAU MAINTENON MATNTENoN -Prepare Prepare like like Mutton Mutton chops chops Maintenon (see MUTTON). Maintenon (see MUTTON). Veal maraîchère. CÔTES Veal chops chopsià la lamaraichire. cdrns DE os VEAU vn,c,u À A LA rA. MARAÎCHÈRE MAndcHinn -- Sauté Saut6 in in butter. Garnish Garnish with with chunks chunks of of salsify salsify cooked cooked in in aa flour flour and and water water court-bouillon court-bouillon and and fried fried in in butter, butter, Brussels Brussels sprouts sprouts sautéed saut6ed in in butter, butter, and potatoes cut and potatoes cut to look like to look like olives olives and and cooked in in butter. For sauce sauce use use the the pan juices diluted diluted with with white white wine wine and and with veal stock added. Veal chops ài la la maréchale. mar6chale. CÔTES cOrrs DE on VEAU vnnu À A LA ra MARÉCHALEuen6cn.lls Flatten Flatten the chops lightly, lightly, season season with with salt pepper, and salt and and pepper, and coat with egg and breadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Cook Cook in in clarified clarified butter. butter. Garnish with asparagus tips butter and tips in in butter and slices slices of of truffies, trufles, placed on top of of the the chops. placed on top chops. Pour Pour veal gravy around veal gravy around and and sprinkle with iior'sette Noisette butter sprinkle with (see BUTTER, butter (see BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). chops ài la milanais€. milanaise. CÔTES DE vEAU VEAU A À ra LA urr.lx.lrsr MILANAISEVeal chops c6rEs DE Flatten the veal chops chops and and season with salt pepper. Coat Flatten season with salt and and pepper. Coat with egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs mixed mixed with with grated grated Flrmesan. Parmesan. with clarified butter. butter. Set Set on on a a dish dish and and surround surround with with Cook in clarified Macaroni dà la milanaise milanaise (see (see MACARONI). MACARONI). Top Top each each chop chop Macaroni with aa slice slice of of peeled peeled lemon lemon and and sprinkle sprinkle with Noisette butter butter with with Niisette (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters). (see This is is how veal veal chops chops hà la la milanaise milanaise are are prepared prepared in in paris Paris This restaurants. In Italy they they are are generally generally served served with with saut6ed sautéed restaurants. potatoes but but without without the the macaroni. macaroni. potatoes Minced veal veal chops chops Grimod Grimod de de la la Reyniire. Reynière. c6res CÔTES DE DE VEAU Minced vEAU HACHÉES cRrMoD GRIMOD DE DE LA LA Rryr.ltiRE REYNIÈRE - Chop the veal veal chops chops finely, finely, H,lcnfns - Chop the adding to to each each one-third one-third of ofits weight of ofbreadcrumbs soaked adding its weight breadcrumbi soaked in milk milk and and pressed, pressed, and and aa teaspoon teaspoon chopped chopped truffies. truffies. Season Season in with salt, salt, pepper pepper and and aa little little grated grated nutmeg. nutmeg. with Put this this forcemeat forcemeat back back on on to to the the bone bone of of the the chop chop and and rerePut form itit to to its its original original shape. shape. Coat Coat with with egg egg and and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs form and cook cookin in clarified clarified butter. butter. Garnish Garnish with with buttered buttered asparagus asparagus and tipsand and surround surround with with concentrated concentrated veal veal stock. stock. Sprinkte Sprinklewittr with tips Noisette butter butter(see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). butters). Noisette Minced veal veal chops chops with with various various vegetables. vegetables. c6rrs CÔTES DE VEAU Minced nn wnu HACHÉES lwc AVEC r6culcs LÉGUMES DrvERs DIVERS - Chop Chop the the meat meat of ofthe the chops chops n,tcHfns finely as for minced veal chops Grimod de la Reynière, but finely as for minced veal chops Grimod de la Reyniire, but without adding adding truffies. truffles. Re-form Re-forro the the chop. chop. Saut6 Sauté in in clarified clarified without butter. Garnish Garnish with with vegetables. vegetables. Surround Surround with with thickened thickened butter.

Vealragoût rago0t Veal

(see RAGOÛT) RAGOUT) and and use use the glaze as the glaze financiire (see financière as sauce.' sauce.' (Plumerey's recipe.) recipe.) (Plumerey's VeaI chops chops ài la (modern style). la Dreux Dreux (modern style). CÔTES Veal c6TEs DE DE VEAU vEAU ÀA LA LA DREUx -- Stud Stud the the chops, chops, cut rather thick, cut rather pickled tongue thick, with DREUX with pickled tongue and truffies. truffies. Cook gently in Cook gently in butter. butter. Trim Trim the the fiat flat surfaces and surfaies slightly so so that that the the tongue tongue and and truffies truffies show show more more clearly. clearly. slightly Set on on aa dish dish and and surround surround with garnisii (see with aa Financière (see Set Financiire garnish GARNISHES). For juices diluted For sauce sauce use pan juices use the the pan GARNISHES). dlluted with with Madeira and and mixed mixed with with thickened thickened brown veal veal stock. Madeira stock. Veal chops chops ài la la duxeUes. duxelles. CÔTES c6TES DE DE VEAU vEAU À Veal A LA re DUXELLES ouxnrBs -Saut6 the chops in in butter. When When almost almost cooked Sauté cooked put into into the the pan 44 tablespoons (* cup) tablespoons (1 cup) dry (q.v.). Cook dry duxelles duxelles (q.v.). pan Cook ail all together over gentle heat for aa few moments. over aa gentle moments. Set together Set the chops on aa dish dish and juices to and sprinkle sprinkle with the pan juices on with the to which which white wine and tomato-flavoured tomato-flavoured Demi-glace (see SAUCE) Demi-glace sauce wine and sauce (see have been chopped parsley. have been added. Sprinkle with chopped Veal chops à i la fermiire. c6rns DE DE vEAU fermière. CÔTES VEAU A À LA Veal cbops r.,c, FERMIÈRE rnnMDRr -Cooked in cocotte like like Veal Veal chops à (seebelow), la paysanne (see d la Cooked in a cocotte below), but but without without potatoes. potatoes. Veal aux fines Veal chops chops aux fines herbes. berbes. CÔTES DE vEAU VEAU AUx AUX FrNEs FINES cdres ne HERBES Saut6 HERBES - Sau té 44 chops chops in butter. bu tter. Drain Drain and arrange arrange on a dish. Dilute Dilute the the pan juices juices with I~ dl. (3 tablespoons, scant scant fi cup) cup) white white wine wine to to which a teaspoon teaspoon of of chopped shallot shallot has been been added. added. Add Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce (see SAUCE). Boil for a few moments, moments, then then add add I1 tablespoon tablespoon chopped parsley, chervil chervil and and tarragon. tarragon. Pour Pour the the sauce sauce over over the the chops. chops. Veal Veal chops cbops ià la la gel6e gelée (Car0me's (Carême's recipe). recipe). c6rEs CÔTES on DE w,lu VEAU A À ra LA cel6r GELÉE -- 'Trim 'Trim the the veal veal chops chops and and stud stud them them with ham ham and and bacon bacon fat fat or pickled pickled tongue. tongue. Put Put them them in aa pan pan lined lined with with bards bards ofbacon of bacon fat fat and and put put more more bards bards ofbacon of bacon fat fat on on top. top. Over Over these these place place the the trimmings trimmings of of the the chops, chops, 2 carrots, 22 onions, onions, 22 cloves c10ves and and aa good good bouquet bouquet of of thyme, thyme, bay bay leaf leaf and and basil. basil. Add Add salt, salt, aa glass glass of of white white wine, wine, Il tablespoon tablespoon brandy brandy and,2 and 2 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) consomm6. consommé. Cover Coyer with with buttered buttered paper paper and and place place the the pan pan on on the the fire. fire. 'When 'When itit has has come come right right to to the the boil, boil, cook cook over over aa gentle gentle heat, heat, in in such such aa way way that that the thechops chops boil boil only only lightly lightly for for 22hours. hours. This This cooking cooking time time isis for for thick thick chops chops weighing weighing about about 225 225 g. g. (8 (8 oz.) oz.) each. each. 'Drain 'Drain them. them. When When they they are are almost almost cold, cold, press press them them between between 22 plafonds plafonds (baking (baking tins), tins), putting putting aa weight weight on on top. top. When When they they are are quite quite cold cold trim trim them, them, glaze glaze them them with with their their braising braisingliquor liquor boiled boiled down down and and strained, strained, and and set set them them on on aa dish dish garnished garnished with with chopped chopped jelly. jelly. Garnish Garnish the the top top of of each each chop chop ligbtly lightly with with jelly, jelly, and and surround surround with with aa border border of ofjelly jelly crofitons.' croûtons.' Grilled Grilled veal veal chops. cbops. c0rns CÔTES os DE vEAU VEAU cRrLLEns GRILLÉES -- Season Season the the chops chopswith withsalt saltand andpepper, pepper,sprinkle sprinklewith withmelted meltedbutter butteror oroil oil

958 958

VEAL of the themeat meat of ofthe the chops chops and and mix mix with with aa quarter quarter of ofits its weight weight of in milk butter butter and and an an equal equal quantity quantity of ofbreadcrumbs breadcrumbs soaked soaked in milk pepper and a and and pressed. pressed. Season Season this this forcemeat forcemeat with with salt, salt, pepper and a the bone and the on it back grated Put nutmeg. little reshape the little grated nutmeg. Put it back on the bone and reshape with the chops-. chops. Flour Flour and and cook cook in in clarified c1arified butter' butter. Garnish Garnish with the of chosen chosen vegetable, vegetable, and and put put aa slice slice of of peeled peeled lemon lemon on on top top of (see each each chop. chop. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Noisette Noisette butter butter (see BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters). butters).

brown veal veal stock. stock. Sprinkle Sprinkle with with Noisette Noisette butter butter (see (see brown BUTTER, Compound Compoundbutters). bUllers). BUTTER, Vealchopo chopsi àlalaMorland Morland(Car0me's (Carême'srecipe). recipe). cOrrs CÔTESop DEvelu VEAUAÀ Veal LA MoRLAND MORLAND-- Dip Dip veal veal chops chops in in beaten beaten egg egg and and coat coat them them LA withfinely finelychopped choppedtruffies. truffies. Saut6 Sautéininclarified clarifiedbutter. butter. Set Setthem them with on aa serving serving dish dish and and aa mushroom mushroom purie purée in in the the middle. middle. Use Use on Demiglacesauce sauce(see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Demiglace Veal Veal chops chops with with mushrooms. mushrooms. cOrrs CÔTES DE DE vEAU VEAU AUX AUX CHAMPIGNONS -- Season Season chops chops with with salt salt and and pepper. pepper. Brown Brown cHAMpIGNoNs both sides sides in in butter butter in in aa saut6 sauté pan. pan. both When When half half cooked cooked add add peeled peeled raw raw mushroom mushroom heads heads and and finish finish cooking. cooking. Garnish Garnish with with the the mushrooms' mushrooms. juices diluted Sprinkle Sprinkle over Over the the cooking cookingjuices diluted with with Madeira Madeira and and Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Demi-glace Veal Veal chops chops with with mushrooms mushrooms ià la la crime. crème. cOTES CÔTES DE DE vEAU VEAU AUx AUX CHAMPIGNONS A À I-,1 LA cnfirrle CRÈME -- Prepare Prepare as as above. above. After After having having cHAMpIcNoNs set the the chops chops on on aa dish, dish, dilute di] u te the the cookingjuices cookingjuices with wi th Madeira Madeira set and fresh fresh cream cream and and boil boil down. down. Coat Coat the the chops chops and and and mushrooms with with this this sauce. sauce. mushrooms

DE vEAU EN Veal Veal chops chops en en portefeuiile portefeuille (gdiled). (grilled). c6rrs CÔTES DE VEAU EN

papillote Veal chops chops en en papillote

PAPILLoTE -EN PAPILLOTE vEAU EN DE VEAU papillote. CÔTES cOrrs DE Veal Veal chops chops en en papillote. paper cut in cut in of oiled oiled paper sheet of Set on on aa sheet Sauté Saut6 the chops in butter. Set heart halfofthe on one one half chop on the chop the shape of the heart ofaa heart, heart, placing the shape of thick tablespoon thick with 1I tablespoon on covered with ham covered of cooked cooked ham on aa slice slice of of the the tablespoon of (see SAUCE). Duxelles Put another another tablespoon SAUCE). Put sauce (see Duxelles sauce of ham. slice ofham. another slice with another sauce and coyer cover with on top of of thechop the chop and sauce on in the the Cook in edges. Cook the edges. Close over the papillote, folding folding over the papillote, Close the little. colour itit aa little. paper and and colour oyen up the puffup the paper long enough enough to to puff oven long PARMENTIER -vEAU PARMENTIER on VEAU Veal c0rss DE Parmentier. CÔTES Veal chops chops Parmentier. both on both pepper. Fry in butter butter on Fry in Season and pepper. with salt salt and chops with Season 44 chops (8 oz.) pan 225 oz.) 225 g.g- (8 put in in the the pan sides. half cooked, put When they are halfcooked, sides. When they are cooking Finish cooking (*-inch) square. potatoes square. Finish pieces 22 cm. cm. (~-inch) potatoes cut cut in in pieces together. together. potatoes' with the the potatoes. Set and surround surround with dish and chops on on aa dish Set the the chops juices diluted tablespoons (3(3 with 22 tablespoons Pour pan juices diluted with Pour over over the the pan parsley. with chopped chopped parsley. tablespoons) Sprinkle with veal stock. stock. Sprinkle tablespoons) veal pnvslNNr r.q,PAYSANNEvEAU ÀALA DE VEAU Veal paysanne. CÔTES cOrns DE la paysanne. Veal chops chops ài la dl. add1Idl. ready, add almost ready, arealmost Cook en they When they are in butter. butter. Wh Cook 44cbops chops in with the the (6(6 tablespoons, vegetable fondue, scant11 cup) vegetable tablespoons, scant fondue, with "up) bacon, and butter, and friedininbutter, addition 6 tabtespoons bacon, fried chopped addition of of6 tablespoons chopped Finish butter. Finish potatoes, cooked cooked inin butter. 175 oz., li g. (6o2., cups)diced diced potatoes, 175g.(6 l| cups) scant tablespoons, scant dl.(6(6tablespoons, cooking over1Idt. Sprinkleover all together. together.Sprinkle cooking ail ~l cup) of vealstock. stock. ofveal "rrp) served ininan an andserved cooked and Veal paysanne can canbe becooked chops àitlala paysanne Veal chops paysanne. cooked àdlalapaysanne. earthenware dishes cooked canail alldishes ascan casserole, as earthenware casserole, wlu ÀA LAll on VEAU c6rnsDE Veal pi6montaise. CÔTES Veal chops chopsài lala piémontaise. prflvroNrlrsr - - Season pepper,and and and pepper, PIÉMONTAISE withsalt saltand chopswith thechops Seasonthe gratedcheese. cheese. withgrated coat mixed with withegg breadcrumbs mixed coat with eggand andbreadcrumbs piCmon' Rl'sotto àdlalapiémonSauté with Risotto Garnish with butter.Garnish Saut6 ininc1arified clarified butter. (seeSAUCE) SAUCE) taise sauce(see (seeRICE). roundDemi-glace Demi-glace sauce RICE).Pour Pourround taise(see flavoured flavouredwith withtomato. tomato. finely Chopfinely PoJARsrr -Chop Veal VEAUPOJARSK1onVEAU cdresDE Poiarski.CÔTES Vealchops chopsPojarsld.

- Cut Cut open open the the lean lean meat meat of of aa thick thick veal veal chop. chop. fill this Season Season inside inside and and out out with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, and and fill tbis pig's piece pocket pocket with with aa forcemeat. forcemeat. Wrap Wrap the the chop chop in in aa piece of of pig's caul caul or or pork pork fat, fat, previously previously soaked soaked in in cold cold water. water. Cook Cook under under the the grill grill at at aa gentle gentle heat. heat. veal Sirve Serve wittr with aa garnish garnish of of vegetables. vegetables. Pour Pour round round some sorne veal gravy gravy with with butter butter added. added. DE vEAU EN Veal Veal chops chops en en portefeuille portefeuiJle (saut6ed). (sautéed). cOTEs CÔTES DE VEAU EN ponrerzuIrie PORTEFEUILLE -- Pripare Prepare the the chops chops as as above. above. Cook Cook in in butter butter in in aa saut6 sauté pan. pan. Garnish Garnish with with the the prescribed prescribed vegetables. vegetables. Dilute Dilute gtavy. the the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine wine and and thickened tbickened veal veal gravy. A u ponrucusr Veal CÔTES DE DE vEAU VEAU À LA PORTUGAISE Veal chops chops ià la la portugaise. portugaise. c6rrs juicesfor Sauté theihops the chops in in oil, oil, set set on on aa dish. dish. Add Add to to the the pan panjuices for - Saute (see Tomatofondue each each chop chop 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) Toma 10 fondue (see j cup) white FONDUE). FONDUE). Add Add I1 Ot. dl. (O (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant ~ cup) white add 22 teaspoons down, add with aa little season with wine, wine, season little garlic, garlic, boil boil down, teaspoons chops.. over the and pour chopped parsley chopped parsley and pour over the chops rRoveNqlrr A u DE vEAU c6rrs DE ctrops ài la .Veat Veal chops la provengale. provençale. CÔTES VEAU À LA PROVENÇALE with Garnish with oil. Garnish and oil. of butter butter and Saut6 thelhopsln -- Sauté the chops in aa mixture mixture of grated with (q.v.), covered with duxelles stuffed tomatoes tomatoes stuffed with duxelles (q.v.), covered with grated juices with wine, white wine, pan juices with white Dilute the the pan browned. Dilute cheese and and browned. cheese garlic for for little garlic (see SAUCE), and aa !ittle SAUCE), and sauce (see add TomalO Tomato sauce add parsley' with chopped chopped parsley. Sprinkle with chops. Sprinkle Pour over over chops. seasoning. Pour seasoning. DE vEAU cdrns DE garnishes. CÔTES with various various garnishes. veal chops chops with Saut6ed veal Sautéed VEAU in chops in the chops Saut6 the DIVERSEs -- Sauté s.lurfn AVEC AvEc GARNITURES cARNITUREs DIVERSES SAUTÉE vegetables. following of the the following vegetables. with sorne garnish with some of butter, and and garnish butter, veal brown veal juices with add brown wine, add white wine, pan juices with white Dilute the the pan Dilute pour choPs' gravy over the and gravy and pour over the chops. bottoms; artichoke bottoms; or artichoke artichokes or Garnishes. Quartered Quartered artichokes Garnishes. in butter butter saut6ed in aubergines, sautéed diced aubergines, in butter; butter; diced asparagus tips tips in asparagus or braised or celery, braised Vichy; celery, or Vichy; la creme, creme, glazed iarrots, àd la oioil; Sazed or or oil; carrots, in fungi sautéed saut6ed in edible fungi other edible or other cipes or in butter; butter; cèpes simmered in simmered Brussels (U'S.A. endive); endive); Brussels chicory (U.S.A. braised chicory or oil; oil; braised butter or butter butter; in butter; saut6ed in cauliflower, sautéed butter; caulifiower, in butter; saut6ed in sprouts, sautéed sprouts, in saut6ed in courgettes sautéed or courgettes marrows or Italian marrows diced Italian siiced or or diced sliced leaf spinach spinach (U.S'A. chicory); chicory); leaf braised endive endive (U.S.A. butter or or oil; oil; braised butter or cream or butter, cream in butter, or sieved sieved in chopped or in butter, butter, or or chopped stewed- in stewed in butter butter beans in kidney beans cream; kidney or cream; gravy; hop in butter butter or shoots in hop shoots gravy; sorrel; braised sorrel; or cream; cfeam; braised butter or in butter corn in or àdla la bretonne; bretonne;sweet or sweet corn various in various prepared in potatoes, prepared peas in la frangaise ;potatoes, in butter butter or or àdlafrançaise; peas or sautéed saut6ed stock or increa cream, pilaf riceor salsify in risotto; salsify ways; pilafrice or risotto; ways; m, ininstock grilled, or or butter, grilled, saut6edinin butter, halved tomatoes tomatoessautéed butter; halved inin butter: oil. or oil. in butter butter or cookedslowly slowly in cooked TRUFFES- AUx TRUFFES vEAU AUX DE VEAU c0res DE with truffles. trufres. CÔTES Veal chops chops with Veal When butter. When pepper. Sau Saut6 and pepper. with salt saltand chops with Season the thechops Season té ininbutter. thick rather thick pan for chop,66rather for each each chop, put into into the thepan cooked, put almostcooked, almost the with the coverwith andcover dishand onaadish chops on Setthe thechops truffies. Set slices of of truffies. slices

eoRTEFEUILLE PORTEFEUILLE -

'

juices diluted with dilutedwith cooking juices the cooking with the Sprinkle with truffies. Sprinkle trumes. with (seeSAUCE), flavoured with SAUCE), flavoured sauce(see Madeiraand andDemi-glace Demi'glace sauce Madeira truffieessence. essence. truffie the Grillthe vERT-pns- - Grill vEAUVERT-PRÉ onVEAU c6rrs DE vert-pr6. CÔTES Vealchops chopsvert-pré. Veal (seeBEEF, BEEF, vPrt-prC(see auvert-pré Entrec\teau garnishasasfor forEntrecôte chopsand andgarnish chops EntrecOte). Entrecôte). chopsinin thechops Saut6the vlcnv- -Sauté vEAUVICHY oEVEAU c6rnsDE Vichy.CÔTES Vealchops chopsVichy. Veal tablespoons(6(6 chop,55tablespoons panfor eachchop, foreach Puiinto intothe the pan butter. Put butter. (see Vichy(see fotàd lala Vichy prepared asasfor carrots prepared tablespoons)carrots tablespoons) juices. panjuices. dilutedpan withthe thediluted Sprinklewith CARROT).Sprinkle CARROT). vmNNotsn - rl VlENNOISE vEAU DEVEA c6rEsDE viennoise.CÔTES Vealchops chopsà i lalaviennoise. Veal U ÀALA viennoise. of vealàdlalaviennoise. Escalopes ofveal forEscalopes Prepareasasfor Prepare

9s9 959

VEAL VEAL Veal chops Zingara,cOrrs DE VEAU ZTNGARA - Season with Veal chops Zingara. CÔTES DE VEAU ZINGARA - Season with salt and paprika. Saut6 in butter. Set the chops on a dish and salt and paprika. Sauté in butter. Set the chops on a dish and put on top of each a slice of ham saut6ed in butter. Coat with

EscALopEsDE DEVEAU vEAUAU RoMARTNAUROMARIN ESCALOPES

Cutfrom pieceof fromaapieee boned ofboned - Cut loinofofveal veal66sliees slicesabout about 21 2!cm cm(1(1inch) inch) thick. thick.Season Seasonwith with loin pepperand salt"and pepper andcoat coat them themwith withflour. flour. Fry Fry ininhot hotbutter butterinin salt'and pan. saut6pan. aasauté Whenthey theyare good colour areaagood colour on pourininaaglass onboth glass bothsides, sides, pour When ofwhite whitewine. wine. Add Add a'smalt a'small sprig sprig offrcsh o-f fresh rosemary. rosemary. Coyer Coverthe of the pan,and andcook cookslowly, slowly, without without boiling, boiling, for for18 l8 t-oto20 20ntinutes. minutes. pan, Place the theescalopes escalopes on juice. onaadish dish and and sprinkle sprinkle with with their their juice. Place Escalopes of of veal vealài lala viennoise. viennoise. ESCALOPES EscAI.opns DE on VEAU vnau ÀA LA r.L E.'iCalopes vIENNoISE - - Flatlen Flatten the the escalopes escalopes weil, well, season, season, coat coatwith with egg ViENNOISE egg and breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, and and cook cook them them in in butter. butter. Arrange Arrange on and on aa layer of of Anchovy (see BUTTER, AnchovybUller butter (see BUTTER, Compoundbutten). Compound-butters). layer On top top of of each each escalope put aa slice escalope put peeled lemon slice of of peeled lemon and and aa On stoned olive olive surrounded surrounded by by aa fillet fillet of of anchovy. anchovy. stoned Set the yolks of the whites whites and and yolks of hard hard boiled boiled eggs, eggs, chopped chopped Set separately, round round the the escalopes, escalopes, together together with with capers capers and and separately, chopped parsley. parsley. chopped .l'F;he[e'. FEUILLETON Feuilleton of of veal veal 'l'Échelle'. FETJTLLEToN DE DE VEAU vEAU Feuilleton 'L'icIfiLLE'- Seal quickly in Seal quickly in very very hot hot butter butter aa boned boned and and 'L'ÉCHELLE' seasoned fillet fillet of of veal. veal. Allow Allow ta to cool. cool. Cut Cut itit at at regular regular seasoned intervals, lengthways, lengthways, so so as as to to make make'leaves', attached only only at at intervals, 'Ieaves', attached the base. base. the Fill tbe the spaces spaces with with aa mixture mixture of (q.v.) of dry dry duxelles, duxelles, (q.v.) Fill chopped lean lean ham, ham, dieed diced truffies trufles and quantity of and an an equal equal quantity of aa chopped finemirepoix (q.v.) ofvegetables, of vegetables, bound with with bcaten beiten egg. fine mirepoix (q.v.) Re-form tbe the fillel, fillet, coyer cover it it with wfth mirepoix and wrap itit in and wrap in Re-form pigs'caul paper-thin salt or paper-thin pork previously soaked salt pork soaked in in cold pigs' caul or water. Spread with with aa little little butter, plaee place in in aa casserole, coyer cover water. and cook cook in in the the aven. oven. and Garnish the fillet fillet with with braised lettuce lettuce and potatoes Garnish potatoes fried in butter. For sauce use the cookingjuices cooking juices diluted with Madeira buller. For and brown veal stock. stock. and brown veal Feuilleton of of cold veal in jelly. rrunEToN DE VEAU vsA,u FROID FRoro A Feuilleton vealln jelly. FEUILLETON À re GELÉE cnrfr -- Sec See FEUILLETON. LA FEUILLETON. Fillet of of veal. DE vEAU of veal, FUlel vcal. Hrsr FILET DE VEAU - Loin Loin of veal, boned boned or unbonedo (U.S.A. unboned, a a part part which which includes not not only the fillet fillet (U.S.A. sirloin), sirloin), but but also the the part part which corresponds to what what would would be be called called the the eye of of the sirloin sirloin (U.S.A. (U.S.A. tenderloin) tenderloin) in in beef. beef. The The true true fillet fillet of of veal veal is is a a very delicate cut eut and can be he prepared prepared alone. From From it it may may be be cut eut escalopes, noisettes noisettes or midaillons, médaillons, the the two two last la st being being treated treated in in the the same same way as as the the escalopes. escalopes. Fillet of veal, veal, cut eut in in square square pieces, pieees, may may also also be be used used to 10 Fillet of make make sauties saUlées dà la la minute, minute, skewered skewered to to make make brochettes, brochettes, or or lightly lightly flattened fiattened and and grilled. grilled. Veal or godiveaugodiveau - See Sec FORCEMEATS. FORCEMEATS. Veal forcemeat Corcemeat or Fricadelles Fricadelles of of veal. veaJ. FRTcADELLEs FRICADELLES DE DE vEAU VEAU -- prepared Prepared with with raw cooked veal (see BEEF). raw or orcooked veal asfor as for Fricadelles Fricadelles of ofbeef beef(see BEEF). Veal Veal fricandeau. fricandeau, FRrcANDneu FRICANDEAU -- This This name name isis given given mainly mainly to to aa dish dish made made of ofloin loin of ofveal veal (noix (noix de de veau\larded, veau) larded, braised braised or or roasted vealbelow). roasted (see.l/orx (see Noix of ofveal below). Fricass6e ofveal.FRrcAssfE FRICASSÉE DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Prepare Preparewith with veal veal cut eut Fricasséeofveal. into into pieces pieces of ofre,gular regular shape shape and and size size like like Fricassie Fricassée of ofchicken chicken (see (seeFRICASSED. FRICASSÉE). Grenadins Grenadins of of veal. veal. cRENADTNs GRENADINS DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Name Narne which which describes the fillet fillet end end ofleg, of leg, like like escalopes, escalopes, describes pieces pie ces cut cut from from the but butsmaller smallerand andthickei. thicke~. They Theyare arestudded studded wiih withbacon baconfat fiaand and braised braised like Iike Norx Noix of ofveal veal below. below. All Ali the the garnishes garnishes given given for for Noix Noix of ofveal vealare areapplicableto applicable togrenadins. grenadins. Knuckle veal iàI'italienne Knuckleofofveal l'italienneor orOsso-bucco. Osso-hucco.JARRET JARRETDE DEvEAU VEAU AÀt'trlttsNNE veal braised L'ITALIENNE-- Roundsof Rounds.ofknuckle knuckleof ofveal braisedininaastock stock which whichincludes includestomato tomatopur6e. purée. Saw Saw 750 750 g. g. (l* (lilb.) lb.) knuckle knuckle of ofveal veal into into rounds rounds 55cm. cm. (2(2 inches) inches)thick. thick.Season Seasonwith withsalt saltand andpepper, pepper,sprinkle sprinklewith withflour flour and andbrown brown in2 in 2toto 33tablespoons tablespoonslard. lard.Add Add44tablespoons tablespoons($(t cup) pint, cup)chopped choppedonion, onion,cook cookuntil untilpale palegolden, golden,add2 add 2dl. dl.($(~pint, scant seantcup) cup)white whitewine, wine,boil boildown, down,add add4large 4 largepeeled, peeled,seeded seeded and and pressed pressed tomatoes tomatoesand and pour pourinin 22dl. dl. $(tpint, pint,scant seantcup) eup)

put on top of each a sliee of ham sautéed in butter. Coat with

Zingara sauce (see SAUCE). Zingara sauce (see SAUCE). Escdopes of veal. EscALopEs DE vEAU Escalopes of veal E.~calopes of vea!. ESCALOPES DE VEAU - - Escalopes of veal are usually cut from the fillet end of the leg. They can also be are usually cut from the fillet end of the leg. They can also be taken from the topside or silverside. taken from the topside or silverside. These pieces, which average about 100 g. (4 oz.) should be These pieees, which average about 100 g. (4 oz.) should be oval, round or heart-shaped. They are lightly flattened and oval, round or heart-shaped. They are lightly flattened and sailt6ed in butter. sa u téed in bu 11er. All the recipes given for veal veal chops chops are are applicable applicable to to Ali the recipes given for escalopes. Those given below for escalopes can equally well escalopes. TIlOse given below for escalopes can equally weil be used for veal chops. The recipes given for touinedos (see be used for veal ehops. TIIe reeipes given for tournedos (see BEEF) and for noisettes of lamb or mutton (see LAMB, BEEF) and for noiselles of lamb or mullon (see LAMB, MUTTOI$, can be be applied to veal chops and escalopes. MUTTON), can applied to veal chops and escalopes. Bscalopes of veal i I'anglaise. EscALopEs os vrlu A vea] à l'anglaise. ESCALOPES DE VEAU .4 Escalopes of t'ANcLrusE - Flatten the escalopes lightly and coat them with L'ANGLAISE - Flallen the escalopes lightly and coat them with egg and breadcrumbs. Cook in clarified butter. Set them in a egg and breadcrumbs. Cook in clarified butter. Set them in a 'crown' on a serving dish and sprinkle with with Noisette Noisette buller butter 'crown' on a serving dish and sprinkle (see BUTTER, C ompound but t ers). (see BUTTER, Compound bull ers). Escalopes of veal I'anversoise. ESCALOPES EscALopEs DE os VEA vEAu A Escalopes of veal ài l'anversoise. U À L'ANvERsorsE - Saute the escalopes in butter. Set them on L'ANVERSOISE - Sauté the escalopes in butter. Set them on cro0tons of bread fried in butter. Garnish with hop shoots in croûtons of bread fried in butter. Garnish with hop shoots in cream and small potatoes, fried in butter. For sauce use the cream and small potatoes, fried in butter. For sauce use the cooking juices diluted with white wine and thick brown cooking juices diluted with white wine and thick brown gravy. gravy. Escalopes of veal with French (string) beans or other green Escalopes of veal with French (string) beans or other green vegetables. EscALopEs DE vEAU AUx HARrcors vERTS - The DE VEAU AUX HARICOTS VERTS - The vegetables, ESCALOPES escalopes can be coated in egg and breadcrumbs or left plain. escalopes can be coated in egg and breadcrumbs or left plain. Saut6 them in butter. Garnish with French beans saut6ed in Sauté them in butter. Garnish with French beans sautéed in butter and surround with with veal veal stock. stock. Spnnkle Sprinkle with with the the butter and surround cooking butter. cooking butter. Escalopes prepared in this way can be garnished with Escalopes prepared in this way can be garnished with flageolet beans, beans, asparagus asparagus tips, etc., flageolet beans, broad broad beans, tips, peas, peas, etc., cooked in salted water, drained and mixed with butter. cooked in salted water, drained and mixed with butter. Escalopes of veal Brancas. EscALopEs DE vEAU BRANcAS E.~calopes of veal Brancas. ESCALOPES DE VEAU BRANCAS Cover the seasoned escalopes with a thin layer of mirepoix of Coyer the seasoned escalopes with a thin layer of mirepoix of vegetables cooked in butter until very tender. Coat in egg and vegetables cooked in butter until very tender. Coat in egg and breadcrumbs and saut6 in clarified butter. breadcrumbs and sauté in clarified buller. Set on a base of Annette potatoes (see POTATOES). put.a Set on a base of Annelle potatoes (see POT A TOES). Put a Chffinnade Chiffonnade of of lettuce letluce (see (see LETTUCE) LETTUCE) mixed mixed with with aa rather rather thick cream sauce on top ofeach escalope. thick cream sauce on top of each escalope. Pour round a few Pour round a few tablespoons tablespoons Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) with Madeira and butter. SAUCE) with Madeira and butter. Escalopes of veal Casimir. EscALopEs DE vEAU cAsrMrR Escalopes of veal Casimir. ESCALOPES DE veAU CASIMIR Season escalopes taken from the fillet with salt and paprika Season escalopes taken from the fillet with salt and paprika and saut6 them in butter. Set each on an artichoke bottom and sauté them in butter. Set each on an artichoke bottorn cooked gently in butter. Put on top a julienne of carrot, cut cooked gently in butter. Put on top a julienne of carrot, eut short and thick, stewed in butter with a julienne of truffes, cut short and thick, stewed in butter with ajulienne of truffies, eut to the same size and added when the carrots are cooked. to tbe same size and added when the carrots are cooked. Coat juices with the cooking Coat with the cooking juiees diluted diluted with with cream cream and and seasoned with paprika. seasoned witb paprika. Escalopes of veal with courgettes or aubergines. EscALopEs Escalopes of veal wilh courgettes or aubergines. ESCALOPES DE VEAU AUx couRcETTEs, AUx AUBERGINEsI _ Season 4 DE VEAU AUX COURGETTES, AUX AUBERGINES - Season 4 escalopes taken from the best end of the neck, trimmed and escalopes taken from the besl end of the neck, trimmed and flattened, with salt dnd pepper. Saut6 them in butter. flattened, with salt ànd pepper. Sauté them in buller. Fry 2 peeled, sliced courgettes or aubergines in oil. Fry 2 peeled, sliced courgettes or aubergines in oil. Garnish the escalopes with the courgettes or aubergines, Garnish the escalopes wilh the courgettes or aubergines, and sprinkle with the cooking juices from the escal,opes, and sprinkle with the cooking juiees from the escalopes, diluted with a little white wine and concentrated meat juice diluted with a little white wine and coneentrated meat juice seasoned with a little grated garlic. Sprinkle with choiped seasoned with a little grated garlic. Sprinkle with chopped

parsley. parsley. . Escalopes of veal i la jardiniire. EscALopEs os vEau A rA, Escalopes of veal à la jardinière. ESCALOPES DE VEAU À LA JARDTNTiRE - Coat the escalopes in egg and breadcrumbs and JARDINIÈRE Coat the escalopes in egg and breadcrumbs and saut6 in butter. Garnish

jardimire

&auté in butter. Garnishwitha with ajardinière(see (seeGARNISHES) GARNISHES)

of vegetables bound with butter or cream. Surround with veal of vegetables bound witb butter or cream. Surround with veal stock and sprinkle with the cooking butter.

stock and sprinkle with the cooking butter. Escalopes of veal with rosemily (Italian cookery). E.'iCslopes of veal willl rosemary (Italian cookery). 960 960

VEAL

VEAL

white whitestock stock or orbroth. broth. Add Add aacrushed crushed clove clove of ofgarlic garlic and and aa bouquetgarni garni and,cook, and,cook,covered, covered,ininthe theoven oyenfor for lt11hours' hours. bouquet Sit knuckleon onaadish dishand andcoat coatthem themwith withthe the Setttri thepieces piecesofofknuckle concentrated cookingliquor. liq uor.Sprinkle Sprinkleaalittle li ttlelemon lemonjuice juiceand and concen tratedcooking some sornechopped choppedparsleY parsleyover. over. pe VEAU AÀ t-l Knuckle of veal veal ià la la provengale. provençale. rlnner JARRET DE velu LA KnuckJe of pRovENgALr PROVENÇALE -- Saw Saw the the knuckle knuckle into into rounds rounds of of the the same sa me and pepper. pepper. Cook Cook lightly lightly in in oil' oi!. thickness. Season Season with with salt salt and thickness. Add one whole whole knuckle) knuckle) 150 150 g. g. (5 (5 oz. oz. 1| Ii cups) cups) finely finely Add (for (for one chopped choppedonion. onion. When When the theonion onionisispartly partlycooked, cooked, add add 4large 4 large p"rl"d, and pressed pressed tomatoes. tomatoes. Season Season with with garlic, garlic, peeled, seeded seeded and pour dl. (tÜpint, pourin in l+1tdl. pint,Jj cup) cup)white whitewine wine and and aa few few tablespoons tablespoons brown u"ul veal g.uuy. gravy. Add Add aa bouquet bouquetgarni garni andcook and cook covered, covered, for for Lto*n

Itlihours. hours.

VeaJ loaf. Joaf. PAIN PAJN DE DE vEAU VEAU -- Prepare Prepare with with Fine Fine panada panada Veal veal. using FORCEMEAT) /(see forcemeatl (see FORCEMEAT) llsing vea!. forcemeat veal. I-oNcn LONGE DE DE vEAU VEA u"- This This isis the the part part of ofthe the carcase carcaSe Loin of ofveal. Loin which extends extends from from the the point point of of the the haunch haunch to to the the first first ribs' ribs. which

They are served garnished with withamirepoix with a mirepoix andMadeira. and Madeira. They are served gamished with vegetables, a puree of sorrel or braised of aa mactdoiie macédoine of vegetabJes, a purée of sorrel or braised chicory.' chicory.'

fricandeau of veal. NoIx, sous-Nolx, Noix, sC;lUs-noix and and fricandeau of veal. NOIX, SOUS-NOIX, Noix, sons-noix

DE VEAU The noix of veal is like the topside of FRIcANDEAU FRICANDEAU DE VEAU-- The noix of veal is like the topside of

of the leg, cut lengthwise. beef, beef,the thefleshy fleshy upperpart upper·part of the leg, cut \engthwise. pieceis found another fleshy part which is called Below is found another fleshy part which is called Belowthis thispiece noix pdtissiire,also cut lengthwise' inin French sous-noixot or noix pâtissière, also cut lengthwise. French the the sous-noix is always studded with fine bacon fat, but only the The norx The noix is always studded with fine bacon fat, but only the parts next to the bone of the chump end. This part is mostly

parts next to the bone of the chump end. This part is mostly

used used for for braising. braising. with bacon fat and cooked in The The sous-nox sous-noix isis also also studded studded with bacon fat and cooked in way as thenoix. the same the sa me way as the noix. the norx. This is a slice cut along Thefricaideau Thefricandeau isis cut cut from from the noix. This is a slice3|cut along cm' be more than should.not and grain meat of the the the grain of the meat and should.not be more than J~. cm. (l~

(l|

with fine bacon fat and usually inchls) inches) thick. thick. It It is is studded studded with fine bacon fat and usually and sous-noix. noix llke braised. braised, Iike noix and sous-noix. noix, soux-nois andfricandcau Garnishes Gamishes applicable applicable to to the the noix, soux-nois and fricandeau endive, mushrooms, are bouquetibre, of of veal veal are bouquetière, bourgeoise, bourgeoise, endive, mushrooms, various vegeClamart, Clamart, braised braised chicory, chicory, spinach, spinach, iardiniire, jardinière, various vegemacddoine, milanaise, sorrel, tables, tables, braised; braised; celery, celery, lettuce, lettuce, macédoine, milanaise, sorrel, piimontaise, piémontaise, risotto. risotto. Noix, sous-noix and fricandeau, cold. Notx, sous-Nolx, Noix, sous-noix and fricandeau, cold.

NOIX, SOUS-NOIX,

rnorus These pieces may be served cold' Braise FRIcANDEAU, FRICANDEAU, FROIDS -- These pieces may be served cold. Braise braising liquor' Coat with strained braising in the cool in and allow and allow to to cool the strained liquor. jell-y: Coat with

jellied, and garnish with chopped the same same liquor, liquor, jellied, and garnish with chopped jelly. the garnishes used to garnish cold meat of the the garnishes with any Serve Serve with any of used to garnish cold meat poultry. and and poultry. DE vEAU - Veal offal or ABATs variety meats. Veat oO"al ofat or or variety Meats. ABATS DE VEAU"": Veal offal or Veal lends itself to a and 1ends flavour and in flavour is delicate deliiate in variety meat meat is variety itself to a (See OFFAL or treatments. of number considerable considerable number of treatments. (See OFFAL or MEATS.) VARIETY MEATS.) VARIETY PAUPIETTEs oe vElu - The paupiettes arc, of veal. PAUPIETTES Paupiettes .with ofveaJ. Paupiettes DE VEAU - The paupiettes are well, rolled up an{ flattened weIl, veal flattened of veal escalopes of made with escalopes made rolled up and (see FORCEMEAT) mixed with spread forcemear Quenille spread with Quenelleforcemeat (see FORCEMEAT) mixed (q.v.) truffies. chopped trumes. or chopped with duxelles duxelles (q. v.) or with liquor, and serve braising liquor, with the the braising coat with siowly, coat Braise very very slowly, Braise and serve veal chops or escalopes' for veal given for garnishes given one of ofthe with one with the garnishes chops or escalopes. PAUPIETTES DE vEAU blanc. PAUPIETTES braised ài blanc. veal braised of veal Paupiettes of VEAU Paupiettes the same in DE paupiettes, using Proceed, srANc A BRArsf'h BRAJSÉES À BLANC -- Proceed, using paupiettes, in the same white s/ock (see in braised sweetbreads s for Calf as way way as for Calfs sweetbreads braised in white stock (see MEATS). or VVARIETY OFFAL OFF AL or ARIETY MEATS). PAUPIETTES DE vEAU brun. PAUPIETTES braised veal of Paupiettes Paupiettes of veal braised ài brun. DE VEAU with Porkforcemeat paupiettes the Spread A snuN BRAIsfEs BRAJSÉES À BRUN - - Spread the paupiettes with Porkforcemeat duxelles (q'v') and dry with mixed (see FORCEMEAD (see FORCEMEAT) mixed with dry duxelles (q.v.) and them up, bard Roll them withegg. egg' Roll parsley and bound witb andbound ctropped parsley chopped up, bard buttered saut6 pan, intoaabuttered Put them into them. Putthem and tie tiethem. *ltt bacon Lacon and with sauté pan, and chopped rindsand bacon rinds porkskin orbacon skinor ofpork linedwith withstrips strips of lined chopped Plut a bouquet butter.Put cookedininbutter. lightlycooked cairots, lightly andcarrots, onions and onions a bouquet pepper'and with salt Season garniininthe middle.Season with salt and pepper. Coyer themiddle. l"d 99u.:tand garni Pour in 2 dl' (t pint, minutes.Pour for1010minutes. stovefor gentlyon onthe thestove iookgently cook in 2 dL (! pint, paupiettes' every 10 forevery Madeirafor wineororMadeira whitewine scantiup) scant cup) white 10 paupiettes. threein,totothreePourin, nothing.Pour almostnothing. liquidtotoalmost thisliquid Boildown downthis Boil veal gravy' thickened paupiettes, the of depth quarters the quarters ofofthe depth of the paupiettes, thickened veal gravy. for 45 minutes to I bastingoften, for oven,bastingoften, theoyen, covered,ininthe iook,covered, Cook, 45 minutes to 1 hour. hour. remove the bards' andrem themand untiethem paupiettes,untie thepaupiettes, Drainthe Drain ove the bards. with the braising coatwith andcoat serving-dishand Seton ona aserving-dish Glazethem. the braising Glaze them. Set strained. andstrained. downand boileddown liquor, liquor, boiled 'Paupiettes vegetables by areaccompanied accompaniedby vegetables brunare braisedà hbrun Paupiettes braised be cooked with the may These braised. or butter mixedwith mixed with butter or braised. These may be cooked with the bourguigbourgeoise,à dlalabourguigvealà dlalabourgeoise, Paupiettesofofveal veal,asasininPaupielles veal, chipolata,etc. nonne,à dlalachipolala, nonne, etc. vege' butteredvegeaccompaniedbybybuttered ateaccompanied paupiettesare thepaupiettes Whenthe When served are vegetables the puree vegetables, of or tables tables or puree of vegetables, the vegetables are served separately. separately. See PAUPIETTES' grecque- -See of vealà ilalagrecque Paupiettesofveal PAUPIETTES. Paupiettes PATES. pit6- -See SeePÂTÉS. Hotfillet filletofveal of vealpâté Hot

(Larousse.) Loinofveal (Larousse.) LUii",ofveal

be braised, braised, can be an entrée, entrie, can as an served as Loin which isis served veal, which Loin of of veal, roasted itit When itit isis roasted roasted. Whcn or roasted. oven, or cooked, in the the oyen, covered in cooked, covered to enough to long enough skin long of skin strip of leaving aa strip isis usually first, leaving boned first, usually boned in this this included in usually included The kidney kidney isis usually wrap fillet. The round the wrap round the fillet. removed' been removed. having been joini, joint, part of fat surrounding surrounding itit having the fat of the - part de called aarognonnade prepared isissometimes sometimes called The rognonnade de loin thus the loin thus prepared by accompanied by usually accompanied and isis usually veau. It can braised, and be braised, veau.It can also also be (see below). below)' of veal(see Noix oiveai fotNoix prescribed for any garnishes prescribed of the the garnishes any of veal, saut6edveal, Thisisissautéed DEVEAU vEAU- - This Matelote MATELoTE DE of veaJ. veal. MATELOTE Matelote of and onions and small onions juices diluted wine, small red wine, with red the diluted with cooking juices the cooking Kneaded with Kneaded thickened with thesauce sauce thickened mushrooms andthe added,and mushroomi added, butters) butter (see BUTTER, Compoundbutters). BUTTER, Compound butter(see round Smallround vEAU- - Small DEVEAU ufna'ru-oNsDE Médaillons veal.MÉDAJLLONS ofveal. M6daillons of prepared like like areprepared Theyare leg.They theleg. ofthe pieces filletend endof piecescut from the thefille;t cutfrom Escalopes veal. Escalopes of ofveal. below' Ribbelow. SeeRib Neck ofneck endof neck- -See bestend Neckof ofveal, veal,best pieces, round pieces, Smallround DEVEAU VEAU- -Small Noisettes NoISErrEs DE veal.NOISETTES Noisettes of ofveal. of veal' Escalopes ofveal. likeEscalopes usually Preparelike fillet.Prepare cutfrom fromthe thetillet. usuallycut stN6vEt'tt- -'The rABÉNÉVENT Noisettes 'The NoISErrEsÀALA B6n6vent.NOISETTES Noiiettesà i lalaBénévent. part'oblong oblonginin fatpart, thatfat noisette Plumerey,'is'isthat saysPlumerey, veal,'says noisetteof ofveal,' blade theblade leftofofthe theleft shape, vealtotothe shoirlderofofveal foundininthe theshoulder shape,found pieceofof delicatepiece extremelydelicate bone. foundananextremely themiddle middleisisfound bone.InInthe meat walnut. sizeofofa awalnut. meatabout aboutthe thesize soakedinin shouldbebesoaked whichshould 'Procure noisettes,which thesenoisettes, 'Procure1616ofofthese blanched' thenblanched. andthen hoursand water the stove for2 2hours stovefor cornerofofthe wateron ona acorner wipeonona a andwipe drainand colddrain Cool nearlycold whennearly andwhen coldwater waterand Coolinincold c10tb putthem underpressure. themunder clothand andput Pressure. stock braisingstock 'The cookedinina abraising thenbebecooked shouldthen 'Thenoisettes niisettesshould 961 961

VEAL VEAL entire entireback backofofthe theanimal. animal.ItIt isisbraised, pot-roastedoror braised,pot-roasted roasted, roasted,and andaccompanied accompaniedby byany garnishesnonnally anyofofthe thegarnishes nor-mally served servedwith withmeat, meat,especially especiallythose givenfor thosegiven forNoix Naixofveal. of veal. Sautéed veal. SAUTÉS DE VEAU Made from the same Sauteed veal. saurfs DE vEAU - Made from the simecuts cutsasas ragoûts. ragofrts.After Afterthe themeat juicesininthe meathas hasbeen beenlightly lightlyfried, fried,the thejuices the panare pan arediJuted diluted with withwhite whitewine, wine,and andstock stockororsauce ofsorne some sauceof kind, kind,varying varyingaccording accordingtotothe therecipe, recipe,isisadded. added. Cut Cutthe theveal vealinto piecesof intopieces regularsize ofregular sizeand andshape. shape.Season Season and andcook cooklightly lightlyininbutter, butter, oil oilororfat, fat,according accordingtotothe thenature nature of ofthe preparation.Drain thepreparation. Drainoff offthe fat,dilute thefat, dilute the theremaining remaining juices with juices withwhite white wine wineand andadd addveal vealgravy gravy or orDemi-glace Demi-glace sauce sauci (seeSAUCE). (see SAUCE). Cook Cook covered covered for for1Ior hours. or l~lj hours. Drain Drain the pieces of the pieces ofmeaL meat.Trim Trim them put into themand and put intoanother another saucepan. saucepan.Add Add the garnish, pour thegarnish, pourover over the thestrained strained sauce saucefrom from which which ail grease has allgrease hasbeen beenremoved, removed,and andsimmer simmertogether for together for 15 15to to20 20minutes minutes over over aalow low heat. heat. Serve Serve in in aadeep deep dish, dish, with withaaborder border of of rice. rice. When is not available, When thick gravy or thick veal veal gravy or demi-glace demi-glace sauce sauceisnot available, the the veal veal may may be be moistened moistened with with stock stock or or water waterand and thickened thickened with butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters). It with Kneaded Kneaded butter (see BUTTER, Compound butters).lt may may also also be be treated treated in in the the way way suggested suggested for for ragoûts, ragofits,and and sprinkled sprinkled with with flour flour and and moistened prescribed liquid. moistened with with the the prescribed liquid. Sautéed Saut6ed veal veal with with aubergines. aubergines. SAUTÉ slur6 DE DE VEAU VEAU AUX AUx AUBERGINES AUBERGTNES -- Like Like Sautéed Sautied lamb lamb with with aubergines aubergines made made with with shoulder shoulder chops chops or or end end chops chops of veal, boned of veal, boned and and eut cut into into square pieces. square pieces. Sautéed Saut6ed veal ved with with cèpes, cdpcs, morels morels or or St. St. George's George's agarics. agarics. SAUTÉ CÈPES, MORILLES, MOUSSERONS - Prepare s,lurf DE DE VEAU vEAU AVEC ^l,vrc cttns, MoRrLLEs, MoussERoNs - piepare as for Sautéed asfor Sautied lamb lamb with (see LAMB). with cèpes cipes (see LAMB). Sautéed Sauteed veal veal chasseur. chasseur. SAUTÉ sAUTf DE DE VEAU vEAU CHASSEURcHAssgun - Cook Cook 750 750 g. g. (l~ (lj lb.) lb.) veallightly veal lightly in in aa mixture mixture of of butter butter and and oil. Dilute oil. Oilute with with aa little dry dry white wine, wine, add add 44 chopped chopped shallots shallots and and stir in stir in veal veal stock stock and and Tomato (see SAUCE). Tomato sauce sauce (see SAUCE). Add Add aa bouquet bouquet garni. Cookforl-thours. Cook for lf hours. Sautéed prepare Sauteed veal Clamart. SAUTÉ slurt DE DE VEAU VEAU CLAMART cLAMART -- Prepare the sau téed veal as saut6ed as in the the first first recipe. recipe. When When the pieces of the pieces of veal veal are almost them and put them almost cooked, cooked, drain them and put them in in the the sauté pan. sauti pan. Co ver them peas cooked cooked àd la francfIise, but Cover them with with peas ta francpise, but not not cooked. Pour over over strained liquor from the sauté. completely cooked. strained liquor from the saut6. Finish cooking, cooking, covered, covered, in in the the oyen. Finish oven. la crime. crème. s,c,ur6 SAUTÉ DE DE vEAU VEAU A À rlc, LA CRÈME Sautéed veal veal ià la Sauteed cRiIrE Sautéed lamb lamb d à Ia la ubme crème (see (see LAMB), LAMB), using using Prepare like llke Saut4ed boned veal cut cut into into small small squares. squares. boned Sautéed veal veal aux fines herbes. herbes. s.lur6 SAUTÉ DE DE vEAU VEAU AUx AUX FINES Saut6ed FrNEs HERBES - Prepare like Sauthed Sautéed lamb lamb aux aux fines herbes herbes (see (see HERBES - Prepare like fines LAMB). LAMB). la hongroise. hongroise. seur6 SAUTÉ DE DE vEAU VEAU A À rl LA HONGROISË Sautéed veal veal ià la Sauteed noNrcnorsE' - Cook Cook 750 g. g. (l+ O-t lb.) lb.) veal, veal, cut eut in in pieces, pieces, lightly lightly in in butter. butter. When itit is is half half cooked cooked add add 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) When chopped onion onion and and sprinkle sprinkle with with paprika. paprika. Dilute Oilute the the pan pan chopped juices juices with with white white wine, wine, stir stir in in 88 dl. dl. (l{ (lt pints, pints, l} li pints) pints) light light Velouté sauce sauce(see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) and and add, add aa bouquet bouquetgarii. garni. Cook Cook ior for Veloutt hours. lfl-t hours. and put putinto into another another saut6 sauté pan. pan. pour Pour Orai'n the thepieces, pieces, trim trim and Drain over the the sauce, sauce, strained strained and and diluted diluted with with aa few few tablespoons tablespoons over cream. Simmer Simmer for for l5 15 minutes. minutes. Serve Serveinin aa deep deep dish. dish. cream. Sautéed veal veal ià I'iodienne. l'indienne. SAUTE SAUTÉ DE DE vEAU VEAU A À L'INDIINI.IE L'INDIENNE Sauteed Cook the the veal veal lightly Iightly inin butter. butter. When Wh en itit isis half halfcooked cooked add add -22 Cook (3 tablespoons) chopped onion. Cook together tablespoons tablespoons (3 tablespoons) chopped onion. Cook together for 55minutes. minutes. for Drain off offthe the fat, fat, sprinkle sprinkle with with aa teaspoon teaspoon curry curry powder powder Drain andaatablespoon tablespoonflour. fiour. Cook Cooktill tillgolden. golden. Stir SÜrinin88dl. dl. (l$ (1 tpints, pints, and pints) white white stock stock and and add add aa bouquet bouquet garni. garni. Cook Cook for for l$ l~ lili pints) hours. hours. Servewith withRice RicedàI'indienne l'indienne(see (seeRICE). RI CE). Serve Sautéed veal veaJ Marengo. Marengo. slurf SAUTÉ DE DE VBAU VEAU MARENGo MARENGO - Cook Sauteed - Cook 750g.g.(lllb.) (lt lb.)veal veallightly oil.When Whenititisishalf halfcooked cookedadd add22 750 lightly ininoil.

trg ofofveal, from wbich which 1the topside isiscul cut Leg veal, from he lopside

and roueUe rouelle of (English cbump of veal veal (English Quasi and chump end end of of loin, loin, U.S.A. Quasi U.S.A. standing romp rump and and heel qulsr heel of ofround). ET ROUELLE RoTJELLE DE standing round). QU ASI ET U -DE VEA vEAU The quasi quasi isis aa piece piece taken taken from from the the leg. leg. ItIt isis cooked cooked in The in aa covered pan pan in in butter, butter, or braised. or braised. covered (can6) of Rib (carré) of veal. veal. CARRÉ cARRf DE DE VEAU vEAU -- Best Best end Rib end of of neck neck (U.S.A. rib) rib) isis scarcely scarcely ever joint isis ever cooked cooked in piece. This in one one piece. This joint (U.S.A. nevertheless excellent, excellent, baked, roasted or or braised. braised. nevertheless joint, and down the the top of of the joint, and remove remove the the spinal Cut down spinal bone bone _ _9ut (this makes joint easier to carve). Season makes the the joint Season and (this in and wrap wiap in th thin bards ofbacon fat. fat. bards ofbacon Roast in in the oyen, oven, allowing 30 30 minutes to pound at to the Roast the pound at (325"F., Gas Mark 3) or pot-roast or braise il. 160"C. (325°F., 160°C. it; Remove the the bacon bacon fat and string. Garnish with watercress Remove and serve serve with cooking juices, and with its its cooking juices, diluted if the meat has been roasted. Ifitit has cooked covered, covered. surround it roasted. If has been been braised braised or cooked with with the the garnish. garnish. Any of the Any of the garnishes garnishes indicated indicated elsewhere for loin loin or noix of veal veal are are applicable applicable to the carud,whether carré, whether roasted, roasted, pot-roasted pot-roasted or or braised. braised. Cold Cold rib rib of of veal. veal. cARRf CARRÉ DE DE vEAU VEAU FRorD FROID - Roast the rib of veal, veal, trim, trim, coat with with jelly, jelly, set on a serving dish and garnish with with cress. cresso Cold veal may Cold rib rib of ofveal may be be prepared prepared as as described described in in any any of of the the recipes ofvetl. or noix ofveal. recipes given given elsewhere elsewhere for for loin loin or Ssddle Saddle of of veal. veal. sELLE SELLE DE DE VEAU VEAU -- This cut cut consists consists of the the

How Howtotocut cutribs ribsofveal of veal

962 962

VEAL

VEAL

veal How How to to turn tum out out aa rice rice border border for for aa saut6 sauté of ofveal

saut6 pan put into another Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, trim trim them, them, put into another sauté pan pressed tomatoes, cookedligbtly in peeled, seeded, with 6 or 8 with 6 or 8 peeled, seeded, pressed tomatoes, cooked lightly in pargley, pour over the sauce, chopped par~ley, Add aa tablespoon oil. Add oi1. tablespoon chopped pour over the sauce, 15 for 15 together for simmer together and simmer down, and and boiled strained and boiled down, strained minutes. minutes. LA vEAU DE VEAU printani0re. SAUTÉ silurf DE ta printanière. veal à la Sauteed veal Sautéed À LA mushrooms' pntrqrlr.uinr Prepare as with mushrooms. veal with for Sautéed Sautied veal as for PRINTANIÈRE -- Prepare small new turnips cut carrots, 22 smaU new carrots, or 55 smaU small new with 44 or Garnish with Garnish new turnips eut 100 g. (4oz''/ and 100 glazedonions 12 small small glazed like olives, olives, 12 look like to look to onions and g. (4 oz., peas. cup) cup) peas. garnish' to the the garnish. be added added to potatoes may also be may also new potatoes Small new Small of veal. veal. slutf or matelote of I, or or matelote red wine wine l, with red veal with Saut6ed veaJ SAUTÉ DE Sautéed DE vEAU - Cook 750 g. (1+ lb') MATELoTE DE vIN ROUGE, RoucE, MATELOTE VEAU AU AU VIN VEAU - Cook 750 g. (Ii lb.) VEAU quarters' into quarters. cut into onion eut large onion with aa large in butter butter with lightly in veal lightly veal (+ pint, scant dl. (t and 22 dl. wine and red wine pint,2lcups) it. (l(t pint, Pour in ii 6O dl. Pour 2i cups) red pint, seant garlic and and abouquet of garlic clove of crushed clove Add aa crushed white stock. stock. Add cup) white a bouquet cup) garni. Cook hours. for It lj hours. Cook for garni. pan with saut6 pan put into into another another sauté pieces, trim and put trim and Drain the the pieces, Drain with (4 oz., sliced cup) sliced oz-, 1 cup) 100 g.g. (4 and 100 onions and small glazed 12 small eli?,ed onions 12 in butter. saut6ed in butter. mushrooms, sautéed mushrooms, one-third, by one-third, down by boiled down liquor boiled cooking liquor Pour inin the the cooking Pour Kneaded butter (3 tablespoons) 2 tablespoons with thickened thickened with 2 tablespoons (3 tablespoons) Kneaded butter Simmer, strained.Simmer, and strained. butters) and (see BUTTER, Compoundbutters) BUTTER, Compound (see for 1515minutes. minutes. covered, for covered, vEAU AU vINRoUGEonVEAU II.SAUTÉ slurf DE wine II. redwine with red Sauteedveal AU VIN ROUGESautéed veal witb with11tablespoon tablespoon themwith sprinkle them andsprinkle piecesof veal,and ofveal, Brown the thepieces Brown wine and redwine Stirininred lightly.Stir flour col colours theflour flour. Cook Cooli until untilthe ours lightly. and flour. forRagoûts Ragofits d wayasasfor thesame sameway offininthe finish off andfinish white stock stockand white à s). r agoitt brown cooking ofco ok ing brown ragoûts). (see RAGOÛT, M e thodof RAGOUT, Method brun(see brun cut largeeut isis Thislarge vEAU - This DEVEAU fplure DE veal.ÉPAULE ofveal. Shoulder of Shoulder cooked' being generally before boned generally boned before being cooked. and saltand withsalt seasoned with beaten,seasoned well beaten, mustbebeweil Themeat meat must The pot-roasted, bepot-roasted, canbe prepared, ititcan Thusprepared, pepper, rolled andtied. tied.Thus rolledand pepper, same preparedininthe thesame shoulderisisprepared Braisedshoulder braised.Braised roistedororbraised. roasted garnishes' same with the is served veal and of way as Noix way as Noix ofveal and is served with the same garnishes. Boned,itit forcemeat.Boned, withforcemeat. bestuffed stuffedwith alsobe canalso iheshoulder shoulder can The sautCs, andsautés, blanquettes and ragofrts,fricassées, usedtotomake makeragoûts, fricassies,blanquettes isisused (see FORCEMEAT)' forcemeat (see kindsofofforcemeat anddifferent differentkinds and FORCEMEAT). vEAUÀALALA DEVEAU 6mur,EDE boulangire. ÉPAULE vealà lalaboulangère. Shouklerofofveal Sboulder rolledshoulder shoulderofof androlled bonedand witha aboned Proceedwith sout lNclRE- -Proceed BOULANGÈRE (see boulangdre (see muttonà dlalaboulangère forShoulder Shoulderofofmutton vealasasfor veal

tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) chopped onion and and a a crushed crushed tablespoons clove of of garlic. clove pint,Zl Dilute the pan pan juices juices with with white white wine. wine. Stir Stir in in 66 dl. dl. (l (1 pint, 21 DilutJthe Tomato cups) thickened thickened veal stock stock and 22 dl. (} (t pint, pin t, scant seant cup) cup) Tomato bouquet garni. Cook for for lj 11 hours' hours. sauce (seeSAUCE). (see SAUCE). Add a bouquet saice in aa sauté saut6 Drain the pieces, trim them and put them back in in sautCed in glac6 onions and 12 mushrooms sautéed pan with 12 small small glacé grease all grease with ail sauce, strained and with oil. oil. Pour over them the sauce, removed, and simmer simmer for 15 minutes. removed, and parsley and chopped parsley with chopped Set dish, sprinkle sprinkle with in aa deep deep dish, Set in oil' crofitons fried in butter or oil. garnish garnish with heart-shaped heirt-shaped croûtons chiefly style chiefly la Marengo, Marengo, aa style preparation àd la Although Alihough aa preparation la chicken àd la SautCed chicken (see CHICKEN, Sautéed applied ken (see chicken applied to tJ chic egg fried egg and fried crayfrsh and trufres, crayfish Marengo) includes truffies, normally includes Mirengo) normaUy and onions and with onions only with garnished only yolks, is garnished yolks, this veal sauté saut6 is this veal mushrooms. mushrooms. Cut mNurn -- Cut A LA MINUTE VEAU À DE VEAU Sautéed s,c.urf DE minute. SAUTÉ la minute. veal ài la Sauteed veaJ squares' small squares. into small veal into of veal boned shoulder chops of end chops or end chops or shoulder chops hot quickly in in hot saut6 quickly pepper and and sauté Season and pepper with salt salt and them with Season them oven. butter. in the the oyen. Finish cooking cooking in butter. Finish by made by sauce made pour over over aa sauce Arrange and pour dish and deep dish Arrange in in aa deep wine, white wine, pint, ~3 cup) white juices with l$ dl. dl. (t diluting putt juices with 11 ih" pan diluting the $ pint, "up) meat glaze, dissolved boiling meat tablespoon dissolved $aze,33 adding aa tablespoon down, adding boiling down, juice of lemon of half half aa lemon the juice and the tablespoons (scant tf cup) butter and cup) butter tablespoons (seant parsley. and with chopped chopped parsley. well. Sprinkle Sprinkle with and stir stir weil. ps VEAU AUx VEAU AUX s.lurf DE Sautéed muslrrooms. SAUTÉ with mushrooms. veal with Saut6ed veal and ragofitand for aaragoût ( 11lb.) asfor veal, eut cut as CHAMPIGNONS lb.) veal, Fry 750 750g.g.(lt cHAMpIcNoNs -- Fry butter' pepper, lightly seasoned lightly inin butter. and pepper, with salt salt and seasoned with juiceswith and wineand white wine with white pan juices Drain the pan fat,dilute dilute the Drain off all fat, off ail oraa vealstock stock or add pints)stock or thickened thickenedveal (l{ pints, pints, lilf pints) stock or dl.(lt add 88dl. (see SAUCE). light SAUCE). sauce(see light Demi-glace Demi-glace sauce hours' for11l| hours. veryslowly slowlyfor Add cook very garni,and andcook Add aabouquet biuquet garni, another putthem intoanother theminto Drain andput pieces of meat,trim trimand ofmeat, Drain the the pieces previously sauté 3 cups) (9oz., mushrooms previously cups) mushrooms o2.,3 panwith wiltr 250 ZSOg.g.(9 saut6pan are theyare sliced ififthey small,sliced sautéed aresmall, wholeifif they theyare butter,whole saut6e-dininbutter, large. large. greasehas been hasbeen Pour whichallallgrease fromwhich saucefrom strained sauce Fourover overthe thestrained for15l5 togetherfor alltogether removed. Simmer ail if necessary.Simmer Boildown, down,ifnecessary. removed.Boil minutes. minutes. vEluÀALA nsVEAU Sautéed portugaise.SAUTÉ sAUTfDE vealà lalaportugaise. Srut6ed veal tablespoon poRrucAlsE - -Cook with1Itablespoon PORTUGAISE oilwith veal lightlyininoil theveallightly Cookthe chopped garlic. ofgarlic. cloveof crushedclove anda acrushed onionand choppedonion juiceswith Stirinin2 2dl.dl.(t(*pint, qinl, Dilute wine.Stir withwhite whitewine. panjuices Diiutethe thepan gravyand and4 4dl.dl'-G seant vealgravy andthickened thickenedveal cup)concentrated concenlratedand scantcup) adda a Season,add pint, SAUCE). Season, (seeSAUCE). sauce(see Tomatosauce pint,seant cups)Tomato scant22cups) bouquet hours' forItl|hours. garniand andcook cookfor bouquetgarni

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i

i

i

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rl

MUTTON). MUTTON). vEAuÀALALl fplurrDEpeVEAU bourgeoise.ÉPAULE vealà i lalabourgeoise. Shoulderofofveal Shoulder shoulderinin theshoulder Braisethe optional. stuffing Rolled, BouRGEoIsE BOURGEOISE - -Rolled, stuffing optional. Braise Braisingwhite METHODS,Braising (seeCULINARY CULINARYMETHODS, way(see usualway theusual the white (see GARNISHES)' garnish(see Bourgeoisegarnish witha aBourgeoise meat).Serve Servewith meat). GARNISHES).

a

963 963

VEFOUR

VÉFOUR

Stuffd shoulder of veal. 6p,q,urr DE vEAU FARcTE _ Bone a Stuffed shoulder of veal. ÉPAULE DE VEAU FARCIE - Bone a medium-sized shoulder of veal and beat the inside surface medium-sized shoulder veal and beat the inside surface well. Season with pepper salt, of and a pinch of spice. Spread weil. pepper and a pinch of spice. Spread *ltl Season u thickwith layersaioft, fine forcemeat or sa.rsage meat mixed with a thick layer of fine forcemeat or sa usage meat mixcd with chopped herbs and well seasoned. Roll up the shoulder chopped herbs and weIl seasoned. Roll up the shoulder with and tie. it to keep a good shape. Braise in the usual way. andDrain tie it toand keep a good shape. Braise in the usual way. remove the strings. Glaze the shoulder and set Drain and rem ove the strings. Glaze the shoulder and set pour on.a serying dish. over a little of the braising liquor on a serving over a little of the braising liquor boiled downdish. andPour strained, and serve either as it i, o. boiled down and strained, and serve either as it is or accompanied by a garnish. accompanied a garnish. Shoulder ofby veal stuffed i t'anglaise. 6p,lurs DE vEAU FARCTE of velllStuff l'anglaise. ÉPAULE DE VEAU FARCIE AShoulder r',q,Ncrxsn theà boned shoulder with a forcemeat - stuffed Àmade L'ANGLAISE - Stuff the boned shoulder with a forcemeat of one-third calf s or ox kidney, one-third udder or veal made of one-third eaIrs or ox kidney, one-third udder or veal fat (both these ingredients finely chopped), one-third bread(both soaked these ingredients chopped), one-third breadfat crumbs in milk andfine1y pressed, and 2 eggs. Season and crumbs soaked in miJk and pressed, and 2 cggs. Season and mix well. mixwell. Roll and tie the shoulder. Braise or roast as preferred. Roll accompanied and tie the shoulder. Braise or roast as preferred. Serve by boiled bacon and sprinkled with some by braising boiled bacon and sprinkled with sorne Serve of theaccompanied concentrated liquor or, if the shoulder is of the concentrated braising liquor or, if the shoulder is roasted, with its own juices. roasted, with(breast) its ownjuices. Tendrgns ofveal. TENDRoNs DE vEAU _ These pieces Tendrons (breast) ofveal. THfDRONS DE VEAU - These pieces are cut from the extremities of the ribs, from the point at are eutthe [rom the are extremities the ribs, l'rom the point at which chops generally of cut, to the sternum. which the chops cut, to the sternum. To qualify forare thegenerally name tendron these pieces must include _ qualify the breast. name tendron these pieces must inc1ude theTofull width for of the cut across, th-ey are not tendrons. of the breasl. Cut across, are not tendrons. the full width Cut in square pieces they are saut6ed or they used to make ragofrts. CutTendrons in squareare pieces they are sautéed or used to make ragoûts. braised with very little liquid and can be Tendrons are with very little liquid and can be accompanied by braiscd one of the garnishes given either for the Noix accompanied by one oforthe given either for the Noix of veal or Fricandeau, forgarnishes the rib oiloin. They may also be o/veal or for the rib or loin. They may also be cookedor inFricandeau, butter, without moisture, in a covered pan. cooked in butter, moisture, in a covered pail. Tendrons i lawitbout bourgeoise. rrwonoNs DE w,c,u i rA, III bourgeoise. TENDRONS DE VEAU À LA Tendrons li Braise BouRGEorsE tendrons. When half_cooked add 12 - Braise 44 tendrons. DOURGEOISE When half-cooked add 12 small glazed onions, 12 carrots cut to look like olives and smal\ onions, 12 carrots cut to look like olives and and 50 glVzed,glazed g. (2 oz.) diced streaky bacon, blanched and glazed, and 50 g. (2 oz.) diced slreaky blanched and fried. Finish cooking together. Glazebacon, the meat, set on a ftied. Finish cooking together. Glaze the meat, on a serving dish with the garnish and sprinkle with the set cooking serving dish with the garnish and sprinkle with the cooking juices. juices. Tendrons chasseur. TENDRoNS DE VEAU cHAssEUR _ Cover DE VEAU CHASSEUR - Coyer theTendrons tendrons cbassellT. with butterTEl-<'DRONS and bake. In the same casserole cook the tendrons butter and bake. In the same casserole cook lightly (5 oz., 150 g. with lf, cups) chopped mushrooms. Dilute the lightly 150 g. (5with oz., licups) chopped mushrooms. Dilute the juices cooking I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant + cup) white cooking juices with 1 dl. (6 tablespoons, cup) white wine, add I dl. (6 tablespoons, scant * cup)seant oemi-gliie sauce 1 dl.tablespoons, (6 tablespoons, seant J cup) Demi-glace sauce wine, add (3 scant *_91, iap)'Tomato-sauce (see 1{ and dl. (3 tablespoons, seant t;Je cup) TonuHo sauce (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Boil for a few moments, pour over the tendrons and Boil for few moments, pour over the tendrons and snlnkl_e withachopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. sprin k:Je with ichopped parsley, chervil and tarragon. Tendrons la jardiniire. TENDRoNs on velu A LA Tendrons Braise la jardinière. TENDRONS DE VEAU À LA r,mpnuine the tendrons or pot-roast them, covered - àBraise JARD!NJÈREthe rendrons or pot-roast them, covered with butter. Set them on a serving dish with a Jardiniire with butter. Set them on a serving dish with a Jardinière (see GARNISHES). garnish Sprinkle with cooking juices. garnish (see GARNISHES). Sprinkle with cookingjuices. Tendrons with mushrooms. TENDRoNs DE VEAU AUx Tendrons witbPrepare mushrooms. DE VEAU AUX cHAMnIGNoNS as for TENDRONS Tendrons d la jardiniire. CHAMPIGNONS as for Tendrons à la jardinière. Garnish with 150- g.Prepare (5 oz., lf cups) peeled mushrooms. Garnish with 150noodles g. (5 OZ., li cups) peeled mushrooms. Tendrons with or risotto. TENDRoNs DE vEAU AUX Tendrons noodles or risotto. TENDRONS DE VEAG AUX NouILLEs, AUwitb Rlsorro or pot_roasted tendrons -- Braised NOUILLES, AU RlSOITO Braised or pot-roasted lendrons accompanied by noodles or a risotto. Sprinkle with their accompanied by noodles or a risotto. Sprinkle with their cookingjuices. cookingjuices. Tendrons i la provengale. rrNoRoNs DE wau A r.L Tendrons àPrepare la provençale. DE VEAU À LA PRovENeALe in the sameTENDRONS way as Knuckle of veal d la - - Prepare PROVENÇALE in tbe same way as Knuckle o/veal à la provengale. provençale. Tendrons with risotto. TENDRoNS DE VEAU AU Rrsorro _ Tendrons witb risotto. AU RISOTTO Braise the tendrons with asTENDRONS little liquidDEas VEAU possible. Set them Braise the rendrons with as little liqllid as possible. Set lhem on a dish and garnish with a risotto to which diced on a dish and andtruffies garnish with a r;50fto to which diced mushrooms has been added. mushrooms and spinach truffies has been added. Tendrons with or sorrel. TENDRoNs DE vEAU AUx Tendrons spinacl:t or sonel. TENDRONS DE VEAU AUX 6ltN.l,nDs, A wiln t'osnnlr the tendrons and serve - - Braise ÉPINARDS, À L'OSEILLE the fendrons and serve sprinkled with their cooking Braise juices accompanied by spinach sprinkled with their cooking juices in butter or sorrel, braised separately. accompanied by spinach in butter or sorrel, braised separately.

+

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964 964

VEFOUR- -See SeeRESTAURANTS RESTAURANTSOF OFBYGONE BycONEDA DAYS. VÉFOUR YS.

VEGETABLE.LÉGUME rfcuMs- -AAvegetable vegetableisisany anykitchen-garden kitchen-garden VEGETABLE. plantused usedfor forfood. food.Vegetables Vegetables are arevery veryimportant importantinInour ou, plant diet.The Thegreat greatvariety varietyofofdishes dishesavailable availabletotoususisisdue duetotothe the diet. plants,vegetables, vegetables,and andcondiments condiments which providea arich whichprovide rich plants, rangeof off1avours. flavours.Vegetables Vegetables have havebeen fundimental totothe beenfundamental the range artof ofcooking cookingsince sincethat thatremote remote lime timeininantiquity antiquitywhen whenone oneof of art ourancestors ancestorsfirst firsthit hitupon uponthe theidea ideaof ofcooking cookingaapiece pieceofmeat of meat our andaafew fewroots rootsininthe pot. thesame samepot. and All the theessentials essentialsof ofaa balanced balanceddiet present inin diet are are present Ail vegetables:protcin, protein, fats, fats,carbohydrates, carbohydrates, mineraI minerafsai salts and vegetables: ts and vitamins.Though Though the theamount amountof ofeach eachofthese of theseelements elementsvaries varies vitamins. differentvegetables, vegetables,ininno noother othertype typeof food are of food are they they more more inindifferent readily assimilable. readilyassimilable. vast number number of plants, edible of plants, edible inin their their wild wild state, state, have have AA vast greatly improved beengreatly improved by bycultivalion cultivation and and selective selective breeding. breeding. been In some some vegetables vegetables one part isis edible, one part edible, inin others, others. another. anothei. ln Roots, bulbs bulbs or or tubers tubers arc are eaten eaten such such as potatoes, sweet as potatoes, sweet Roots, potatoes, yams, yams, root root chervil, chervil, various various kinds kinds of of Jerusalem Jerusalem potatoes, artichoke, carrots, carrots, various various kinds kinds of of turnips, turnips, black black radishes, radishes, artichoke, radishes, kohlrabi, kohlrabi, celeriac, celeriac, beetroot, beetroot, black black and and white white salsify, salsify, radishes, Chinese artichoke, artichoke, onions, onions, sorrel, sorrel, etc. etc. We We eat eat the young the young Chinese shoots of of asparagus, asparagus, hops, hops, brambJe, bramble, etc., etc., and and the the stems stems of oT shoots leeks, edible thistle, thistle, celery, celery, beet beet and and rhubarb, rhubarb, etc. etc. We We eat eat the the leeks, edible of spinach, spinach, orach, orach, tetragonia, tetragonia, purslane, purslane, sorre!. sorrel, aIl all leaves fe.avgs of kinds of of cabbage, cabbage, Jettuce, lettuce, chicory, chicoiy, endive, endive, watercress, watercress, dandankinds delion, corn-salad, etc. etc. In In the the case case of of cauliflowers cauliflowers and and dei ion, corn-salad, ,flowers'. artichokes, etc., etc., we we eat eat the the 'f1owers'. artichokes, Tomatoes, cucumbers, cucumbers, small small and and large large marrows (squamarrows (squa, Tomatoes, shes), melons, ladies' fingers fingers (okra), (okra), sweet peppers ind sweet peppers shes), melons, ladies' and pumpkins are ail all fruits. fruits. We also eat ripe seeds, such sucli as cereals cereals pllmpkins are We also pulses, and other seeds before they and and pulses, and other seeds before they are fully fully ripe, such as green peas, sugar-peas and.beans, green corn, etc. Ifwe add green peas, sugar-pcas and.beans, green If we fungi fungi and and truffies truffies to to this this list, list, it it wltt will be be obvious obvious that that strict vegetarians need not vegetarians need not want want for for aa varied varied diet. diet. preen vegetables have a particularly important part part to _ Green vegetables have a particularly important play nutritional equilibrium eqllilibrium for for they they contain eontain alkaline alkaline play in in nutritional substances substances which which neutralise neutralise the the acids acids produced produced by by protein protein foods. foods. Some Some contain contain minerals, minerais, such su ch as as calcium, calcium, iron, iron, sulphur, sulphur, sodium, sodium, magnesium, magnesium, potassium potassium and and iodine, iodine, also also some sorne of of tne the vitamins.A, vitamins A, the the B B group, group, and and C, C, which which play play an an active active part part in in balancing balancing the the nerve nerve cells. ceIls. Their Their nutritional nutritional value value isis not not verv very high high (an (an average average of of 20 20 calories calories per per 100 100 g.) g.) so 50 it it is is wise wise to 10 alternate them with altemate them with starchy starchy and and dried dried vegeiables. vegetables. Mdst their watir Most vegetables vegetables lose lose some some of oftheir water in in cooking cooking (this (this isis true true even even ofboiled of boiled vegetables) vegetables) and, and, in in consequence, consequence, suffer suffer aa loss weight. This loss of ofweight. This loss loss isis much much more more substantial substantial in in the the case case of ofgreen green vegetables vegetables than than roots roots or or tubers. tubers. Cereals Cereals and and pulses pulses generally increase in weight in cooking. This is especially true generally inerease in weight in cooking. This is espeeially lrue of of dried dried vegetables. vegetables. Dried Dried vegetablei vegetables are are often often soakld soaked inin water water before beforecooking. cooking. ItIt isisalways aJwaysadvisable advisabletoto cook cookthem them inin the water in which theyhave havebeen beensoaking. soaking. the water in whichthey Modern preserving vegetables, Modernmethods methodsofofpreserving vegetables,especially especiallyfteez_ freezing, ing, keep keep their their nutritive nutritive valueJ values alihough although they they may may never never replace garden-fresh vegetables. vegetables. Howevir, However, prese.ved preserved vege_ vegereplace garden-fresh tables provide great variety tables provide great variety to to the the menu. menu. (See (See PRESERVATION PRESERVATIONOF OF FOOD.) FOOD.) Vegetable Vegetablefumet. fumet.FUMET FUMETor DErEcuuns LÉGUMES-- This Thisfumer fiulJetisismade made by by boiling boilingdown down to to make make aa very very strong strong stoCk stock of ofdifferent different vegetables, vegetables,such suchasascarrots, carrots,onions. onions,leeks leeksand andcelerv. celery. julienne i la bretonne. JULTENNE pe r_Ecunans A re Vegetable Vegetablejulienne à la bretonne. JULIENNE DE LÉGUMES À LA BREToNNE - Shred finely the white part of 2 leeks, 4 sticks BRETONNE - Shred finely the white part of 2 leeks, 4 sticksof of white white celery celery and and I 1small small onion. onion. Cook Cook them them slowly slowly inin 3 3 tablespoons tablespoons(scant (scant*i c,rp) eup)butter. butter. Season. Season. When Whenthe thevese_ vegetables arealmost almostcooked, cooked,add add5050g.g.(2(2oz.,l oz., 1cup) cup)shredd-ed shredded tablesare raw rawmushrooms. mushrooms. According Accordingtotothe themain maindish dishwith wilhwhich whichit itisisto10bebeserved. served,

CALENDAR VEGETABLE VEGETABLE CALENDAR blend blend either either with with meat meat or or vegetable vegetable Velouti VelOllie sauce sauce (see (see

SAUCE) SAUCE)and andaafew fewtablespoons tablespoonscream' cream,ororserve serveplain' plain. Vegetable Vegelable loaves. loaves. PAIN PAIN DE DE rfcuuns LÉGUMES -- These These loaves loaves are are braised vegetables, usualiy usuallymade madeofofbraised vegetables,mixed mixedwith witheggs eggsbeaten heatenasas for an omelette, omelette, poured poured into into aa buttered buttered plain plain mould mould and and for an cooked cookedininaabain-marie. bain-marie. (see By By following following the the recipe recipe given given for for Endive Endive loaf loa{ (see ENbIVE), ENDIVE), uatiout various other other vegetable vegetable loaves loaves can can be be made: made. artichoke, artichoke, aubergine, aubergine. carrot, carrot, cauliflower, cauliflower, spinach, spinach, lettuce' lettuce, turnip, turnip,etc. etc. This Thistype typeofofloaf, loa[,made madeininlarge largemoulds' moulds,isisserved servedasasaasmall small entrie. emree.Itltusually usuallyhas hasaacream creamsauce, sauce,poured poured over. over. Small Small vegetable vegetable loaves loaves are are used used as asaa garnish garnish for for meat meat and and broiled, broiled, briised braised or or poached poached poultry. poultry. They They can can also also be be used used eggs' for for garnishing garnishingfish tish dishes dishesor orpoached roached or orsoft-boiled soft-boiled eggs. Vegetable Vegelable pickles pickles (achards) (achards) (commercial (commercial product) producl) -- AA mixture mixture of ofdifferent different vegetables vegetables and and fruit fruit spiced spiced with with vinegar vinegar and and mustard. mus tard. Achards Achards can can be be bought bought ready-made ready-made but bU! here here isis aa recipe recipe to to prepare prepare itit in in the the home. home. Divide Divide into into quarters, quarters, or or pieces: pieces: asparagus asparagus tips, tips, very very small small maize maize (corn), (corn), new new carrots, carrots, white white and and red red radishes, radishes, celeriac, celeriac, turnips turmps and and artichoke artichoke hearts' hearts. Add Add flowers flowers of 'of cauliflower, cauliflower, whole whole almonds almonds still still green green and and hardly hardly formed, formed, aa few few blanched blanched almonds, almonds, small small green green walnuts, walnuts, green cumquats, cumquats, very very small small apricots, apricots, green green apples apples in in quarters, quarters, green and and red red pimentos, pimentos, mushrooms mushrooms and and gherkins. gherlins. Blanch Blanch all ail these these ingredients ingredients for for I1 minute minute in in boiling boiling salt salt water. water, drain. drain, and and marinate marina te them them for for 24 24 hours hours in in vinegar' vinegar. jar. Drain, mix together together and put put them them in in aa jar. Cover Coyer with with the the following following marinade: marinade: To To make make 4litres 41itres (3j quarts, quarts, 4| 4t quarts) quarts) in in strong vinegar, all; (SA pints, pints, 6| &t pints) pints) strong vinegar, remove rem ove aIl; boil boil 3 litres (5| (4 oz'' g. (40z., from and add 25 g. heatand g. (l (l oz., oz·,tcup)coriander, IOOg. l'rom heat I cup) coriander, 100 (2 oz., g. (2 I1 cup) powdered ginger, ginger, 50 g. oz., ~I cup) cup) peppercorns, peppercorns, 44 tablespoons tablespoons (i cup) mustard, 4 teaspoons teaspoons paprika paprika pepper, pepper, 4 4 "np)and 22 tablespoons salt' (3 tablespoons) teaspoons saffron teaspoons salJ:ron tablespoons (3 tablespoons) salt. Strain for l0 let il it stand for Cbver the marinade and let Coyer 10 minutes. minutes. Strain generous (lf pints, pints, generous litre (Ii Add 1I litre and filter. cloth and through aa c10th through tiller. Add jars in jars fruit in and fruit vegetables and Put the the vegetables quartj oil well. Put mix weIl. oil and and mix quart) the to the expose to and expose firmly and Seal firruly marinade. SeaJ with the the marinade. and cover cover with and

(31

U,

days. for 88 to to 10 l0 days. sun for sun The vEcErlles - The MoELLES VÉGÉTALES stumps. MOELLE'; and stumps. stalks and Vegetable slalks Vegelablc in (soft) and applied in is app]ied and is ftommolle derives l'rom French word wordmoelle French moelle derives molle (soft) tender the lender and the stalks and vegetable stalks tender vegetable certain tender cookery 10 to certain cookery parts of vegetable stilmps. stumPS. of vegetable parts

t-6cuursDES LÉGUMES cIITNDRIER DES VEGETABLE CALENDAR. CALENDAR. CALEI\'DR1ER VEGETABLE artichokes garlic, Provençal Provengal artichokes common or corn White or January -- White Jalluary mon garlic, asforced asoil), forced in oil), often in raw, often (early variety eaten raw, variety usually usually eaten (early asparagus, expensive), asparagus, very expensive), and very (early, very scarce and paragus (early, very scarce paragus celand celcelery and carrots, celery mediumlength carrots, Leetroot, cardoons, cardoons, medium-Iength beetroot, (cultivated), enenmushrooms (cultivated), chervil, mushrooms bulbous chervil, chervil, bulbous eriac, chervil, eriac, (smaller wild chicory chicory(smallcr improved wi!d (chicory) and escarole, improvcd andescarole, dive (chicory) dive endive' Bel gsan endive. (b ar b e' de - c apu cin), Belgian wil dchicory chico ry(barbe-de-capucin), andwild rosettes) and rosettes) cabbages, Savoy cabbages, curlySavoy andcurly cabbages and whitecabbages Round-headed white Round-headed Midi, theMidi. andthe Brittany and from Brittany cauliflowers from sprouts,cauliflowers Brussels snrouts, Brussels artiJapanese artiwatercress,Japanese turnips, watercress, flut-tooted turnips, und flat-root~d swedes swedes and dried (early,imported). imported), dried beans (early, Haricot beans Shallots. Haricot chokes.Shallots. chokes. the taste totothe (rootssimilar similarinintaste yams(roots beans.Chinese Chineseyams haricot beans. haricot Midi theMidi from the lettuces from coslettuces (early,forced), forced),cos potato).Lettuces Lettuces (carly, potato). and turnips and Flat-rooted turnips (early),dried salad. Flat-rooted Cornsalado lentils.Corn driedlentils. (early), and roundand Parsnips'round sorrel'Parsnips, onions,sorrel. Yellowonions, turnips. Yellow iantarOturnips. tankard (rare),white white parsley large-rooted parsie parsleyand andlarge-rooted long,corn common long, mon parsley y (rare), leeks, longleeks, Parisianlong variety),Parisian (improvedcultivated cultivatedvariety), danielions (improved dandelions chard, Swisschard, Carentan,Swiss andCarentan, Rouenand fromRouen ieeksfrom verylarge largeleeks very pumpkins' redpumpkins. yellowand andred (early),yellow peutfrom Algeria(early), gt.Lnpeas fromAigeria green black (early,rorced), forced),black medium-length (early, andmedium-Iength roundand Radishes,round Radishes, and salsifyand (roots).White Whitesalsify horseradish(roots). wildhorseradish radishes,wi!d winterradishes, winter rare kindofofrare scolyme(a(akind Spanishscolyme (scorzonera),Spanish salsify(scorzonera), blacksalsify black truffies. (early,imported), imported),trullles. Tomatoes(carly, salsify).Tomatoes salsify).

February

-

White or common garlic, Provengal artichokes

February - White or common garlic, Provençal artichokes (early variety, usually eaten raw, often in oil, forced as(early variety, usually eaten raw, orten in oil, forced asparagus (early, very scarce and very expensive). Red salad paragus (early, very scarce and very expensive). Red salad (sold cooked). Celery, celeriac, chervil, bulbous beetroot beetroot (sold cooked). Celery, celeriac,(chicory) chervil, bulbous and es(cultivated), endive mushrooms chervil, chervi!, mushrooms (cultivatcd), endive (chicoryJ chicory and escarole. improved wild chicory (smaller rosettes), wild

carole, improved wild chicory (smaller rosettes), wild chicory (barbe-de-capucin) Belgian chicory, round-headed white cabSavoy cabbages, red cabbages, Brussels bages bages and and iurly curly Savoy cabbages, red cabbages, Brussels swedes Midi), the and (from Brittany cauliflowers spiouts, sprouts, cauliflowers (from Brittany and the Midi), swedes watercress, Japanese artichokes' Shallots, uttd and kohltubi, kohlrabi, watercress, Japanese artichokes. Shallots, beans (imported, early). Chinese yams (roots String spinach. spinach. String beans (imported, early).(forced), Chinese cos yams (roots lettuces to the potato). Lettuces similar similarinin taste taste to the potato). Lettuces (forced),Flat-rooted cos lettuces Ldmbslettuce. (early),bay hurel. Midi from Cromthe Ihe Midi (early), bay laure!. Làmbs-Iettuce. Flat-rooted (expentankard turnips. Yellow onions, sorrel turnips turnips and and tankard turnips. Yellow onions, sorrel (expenParsnips, long and round, common parsley, dandelions sive). sive). Parsnips, long and round, common parsley, dandelions (improved cultivaied white variety' forced), Swiss chard, (improved cultivated white variety, forced), Swiss chard, p.ut (imported), split peas, long leeks from Rouen and gr""n green peas (imported), split peas, long leeks l'rom Rouen and (early), Algeria from old potatoes, new potatoes bur.niun, Carentan. old potatoes, new potatoes from Aigeria (early), *int"r squash). Round and mediumgourds winter winter gourds lU.S. (US winter squash). Round and mediumiadishes (early), black winter radishes' wild horselength length radishes (early), black winter radishes, wild salsify' horse(roots). White salsify, scorzonera or black radlsh radish (roots). White ,alsiCy, scorzonera or black salsify. (imported, early), Jerusalem artichokes. Tomatoes Tomatoes (imported, early), Jerusalem artichokes. artichokes (for White or common garlic, Midi March March -.- White or comlllon garlic, Midi artichokes (for raw, and cooking), asparagus (branched or petits pois eating eating raw, and cooking), asparagus (less (branched or petils pois expensive than-the forced asparagus varieiy, variety, expensive), expensive), forced asparagus (Iess(sold expensive thanRed the cooked)' Red salad beetroot pt.""dittg preceding month). month). Red salad beetroot (sold chervil, cooked). Red mushglobural type (early), celery, celeriac, Larrots, carrots, globural type (early), (chicory) celery, celeriac, escarole, wild and chervil, mush(iultivated), endive rooms rooms (cultivated), endive (chicory) and improved escarole, wild wild chicory, wild variety), (mignonette chicory chicory (mignonelle variety), wild chicory, improvedwhite wild round-headed (roiettes), Belgian chicory, chicory chicory (rosettes), Belgian chicory, round-headed white and savoy cabbage (late), red cabbages' lrusrsels cabbage cabbage and savoy cabbage (late), red cabbages, Brussels swedes, cucumbers, green and white sprout-s, cauliflowers, sprouts, cauliflowers, swedes, cucumbers, green and beans white String spinach' Shallots, artichokes. Japanese varieties. varieties. Japanese artlchokes. Shallots, spinach. String beans cos and Cabbage beans. (imported, iarly). dried haricot (imported, early). dried haricot beans. (imported Cabbage and and forcos (forced). Lambslettuce, melons Ltt,r".. Iettuces (f(}fced). Lambs-Iettuce, melons (imported and forFlat-rooted and long-rooted turnips' very expensive). ced, ced, very expensive). Flat-rooted and long-rooted turnips. onions, sorrel. Parsnips, round and long, common Yellow onions, Yellow sorrel. Parsnips. round andwhite long,dandelions common (field variety), parsley, green dandelions parsley, green dandelions (field variety), white dandelions (forced), long leeks from Rouen and Carentan, green peas (forced), long leeks from Rouen and Carentan, green peas (early), old potatoes, new potatoes from Algeria (early), (early), old potatoes, new potatoes from Aigeria (early), gourds, squashes and pumpkins' Radishes, yellow rid and Radishes, yellow and red gourds, squashes and pumpkins. White radishes' (early), black mediumJength (early), black radishes. White and medium-Iength iound and round and black salsify. Thyme, imported tomatoes (early), salsify salsify and black salsify. Thyme, imported tomatoes (early), Jerusalem artichokes, truffies. Jerusalem artichokes, trullles. or common garlic, artichokes from Provence White or April - White Aprilcommon garlic, artichokes from Provence asparagus (seasonal variety). Carrots, old and Algeria, and and Algeria, asparagus (seasonal variety). Carrots, old and mushrooms (cultivated), mushrooms chervil, mushrooms celery, chervil, ne*, celery, new, (cultivated), mushrooms (expensive), wild chicory (mignonnette), immoreis and and mords (expensive), wild chicory (mignonnel/e), imand more proved wild chicory, Belgian chicory' (more and proved wild chicory, Belgian chicory, (more more cabheaded new cabbage' white round-headed late round-headed icarce), late scarce), white cabbage, new headed (the cablast), Brussels sprouts cabbage, Brussels savoy cabbage, late savoy bage,late bage, sprouts (the last), (from all quarters), sprouting broccoli, spring (from ail quarters), sprouting broccoli, spring cauliflowers "auliflo*.t. chives, cucumbers, green and white, seakale, and chives, onions and onions cucumbers, green and white, seakale, Dried tarragon' (the spinach, last), Shallots,(the la st), spinach, tarragon. Dried watercress. Shallots, watercress. beans. Cabbage lettuces and cos lettuces, bay laurel, haricot haricot beans. Cabbage letluces and cos lelluces, bay laurel, Lambs-lettuce (the last), melons (early, expenlentils. Lambs-Iettuce dried lentils. dried (Ihe ]ast). melons (early, expenwhite mediumlength (early)' Onions, white Turnips, sive). sive). Turnips. white medium-Iellgth (earlyJ. Onions, white yellow, (new), sorrel (new). Parsnips (the last)' common andyellow, and (new), sorrel (new). Parsnips (the last), common green dandelions (field variety), pa..i.y andcurled curled parsley, pars]ey and parsley. green dandelions (fieldstout variety), from dandelions (the last), leeks, long and whitedandelions iorcedwhite (the last), leeks, long and stout from forced peas (early), peas' mange-tout (early)' potgreen Rouen, Rouen, green peas (early), peas, mange-foUI (early), potatoes, eaily and late. Radishes, round and medium-length atoes, early and late. Radishes. round and medium-Iength (early), horseradish (roots). Scorzonera or black salsify (the (early), horseradish (roots). Scorzonera(early), or black salsify (the arJerusalem Thyme, imported tomatoes last)last). Thyme, imported tomatoes (early), Jcrusalem artichokes. tichokes. Artichokes (from Provence, Algeria and Brittany), May- -Artichokes May (from Provence, Algeria and Britlany), asparagus. Basil (the whole aromatic plant, Argenteuil Argenteuil asparagus. Basil (the whole (cultivated), aromatic plant, mush' new, mushrooms Cirrois.new, coidiment). Carrots. condiment). mushrooms (cultivated), mush(bar be- de-capucin\ Belgian chicory, round-headed white cab-

965 965

VEGETABLE PEAR VEGET ABLE PEAR rooms,mords morelsand andcèpes, cipes,chervIl, chervil,endive (chicory)and endive(chicory) andwiJd wild rooms, york cabbageand chicory(mignonnette), (mignonnette), York andbullock's bullock,sheart, heart, chicory cauliflower and andbroccolî, broccoli,spring spring onionsand andchives, chives,cucu .u.u-_ cauliflower m(greenand bers(green andwhite), white),gherkins gherkinsfrom fromthe theMidi, Midi,seakale, seakale, bers watercress.Spînach, Spinach,tarragon. tarragon.String (fromthe Stringbeans beans(from theMidi Midi watercress. andAlgeria). Algeria).Sumrner Summercabbage, lettuceand andcos cojlelluce, lettuce,yeHow yellow and ca bbage, lelluce green,bay andgreen, baylaurel. laurel.Melons (early).TurnÎps, Melons(early). Turnips, white, white, round iound and andmedium-length medium-length(early). (early).Sorrel. Sorrel.SamphÎre, Samphiie,common commonand and and curly parsley, parsley, leeks (thelast), leeks(the last),green greenpeas peaslfrom theMidi Midiand and curly (from the Algeria), new newpotalQes potatoes (thereare areno nomore moreold oldones). ones).Round Round AJgeria), a.nd.medium mgdiumlengrh length radishes (early), horseradish horseradish (roots), (roots), and rhubarb (stalks (stalks for forstewing stewing andpreserves). preserves).Thyrne, Thyme,tomatoes tomatoes rhubarb (imported). June- - Garlic (new), garden Garlic (new), gardenorach (leaves eaten orach(1eaves eatenlike like provence and Brittany, artichokes spinach), artichokes artichokesfrom fromProvence and Brittany, artichokes spinacb), from Laon (last two Laon (Iast twoweeks), weeks),Argenteuil Argenteuil asparlg.rs (early). (early). from (the whole Basil (the whole aromatic aromaticplant, plant, condiment). condiment). nany ."rroi, Basil (new hardy), hardy), cherviL chervil, mushrooms mushrooms (cultivated), (cultivated), c6pes and (new york cabbages and chanterelles, endive, endive, York and bullockt heart, chanterelles, cauliflowers, spring spring onions onions and and chives, cucumbers and gher_ cauliflowers, kins, watercress, watercress, shallots (new), tarragon. shallots (new), tarragon. Broad Broad bians. kins, beans from from the the Midi Midi and and Aigeria, Algeria, dried dried haricot haricot beans. beans. String ltring beans Cabbage and and cos cos JeHuces (any amount), lettuces (any amount), bay bay laure\. laurel. Melons Melons Cabbage (forced and and from from the the Midi). Midi). Turnips Turnips (hardy). White White onions onions (forced (seasonal), sorrel. sorrel. Parsnips Parsnips (new), (new),- samphiie, common common and and (seasonal), parsley, !eeks curly parsley, (new), green leeks (new), green peas. peas, potatoes polatoes (new, (new, hardy), hardy), curly green purslane. purslane. Rhubarb (stalks for Rhubarb (stalks for stewing stewing and preservei). and preserves). green Thyme, tomatoes tomatoes (imported), (imported). Thyme, July -- Garlic (new), garden Garlic (new), garden orach orach (leaves eaten eaten like like July spinach), green green artichokes artichokes from from Laon Laon and the the camus camus artiarti_ spinach), chokes from from Brittany, Brittany, late late asparagus asparagus (the (the last), last), aubergines. aubergines. chokes (the whole Basil (the whole aromatic aromatic plant, plant, condiment). condiment). Carrots (premaBasil 1pr-ema_ ture, outdoor), mushrooms mushrooms (cultivated), cbpes and and chanterihanter_ ture, outdoor), elles, chefllil, chemil, cucumbers, cucumbers, gherkins, endive (chicory), whiteelles, heart cabbage and and bullock's heart, caulifloweri, *at"r_ beart York York cabbage cress, garden courgettes. Tarragon. Tarragon. Broad Broad beans. cress, garden cress, cress, courgettes. beans. String beans called petits gris gris and others, beans from. from· Bagnolet Ba.gnolet called and others, String butter butter beans beans and and mange-tout, mange-fOuI, fresh fresh ihelling haricot beans. beans. Summer Summer cabbage cabbagc and and cos cos lettuce, leauce, bay bay laurel, laurel, lavender and rosemary. rosemary. Cantaloup Cantaloup melons melons and and others. others. Long-rooted Long-rooted and flat-rooted Ilat-rooted turnips. turnips. White White onions, onions, sorrel. sorre!. pa-rsnip Parsnip (new), (new), common and and curly curly parsley, parsley, peppers, imported imported or irom from the the 993T9n Midi, summer variiiy), smail 5mall green green peas, peas, large large Midi, leeks Jeeks (new (new summer sweet sweet rryose rugose peas, peas, split split peas, peas, potatoes potatoes (new, (new, outdoor), outdoor), green green and and golden golden purslane purslane (for (for salads). salads). Round Round and and medium-tength medium-length radishes. New Zealand Zealand spinach, spinach, thyme, thyme, tomatoes tomatoes from from ihe the radishes. New Midi. Midi. August garden orach, orach, green green artichokes artichokes from from August -- Garlic, Garlic, garden Laon, Laon, large large camus camU5 artichokes artichokes from from Brittany, Brîuany, aubergines. aubergines. (red, Carrots Carrots (red, short shortand and medium-length), chervii, chervil, mushrJoms, mushrooms, Bordeaux Bordeaux cipes, endive endive and and escarole, curly curly savoy savoy - cabbage (early), round-headed cabbages cabbages (seiond season)] cauliflowers, kohlrabi, spring onions and chives, cucumbers ~""''''''~'.''"'''. kohlrabi. spring onions and and gherkins, gherkins. wdtercress, watercress. garden garden cress. cresso Shallots, tarragon. String beans beans (of (ofall ail varieties), varieties), fresh fresh podding haricot beins. ltti"g Cabbage Cabbageand and cos coslettuces, letluces, bay baylaurel, laurel, Cuntuloup '-'''''''2lVU!-,melons and others. others. Long-rooted Long-rooted and andflat-rooted flat-rooted turnips. turnips. ylilow onions, anions. sorrel. Parsnips (long sorrel. Parsnips (long and and round), round), peppers, peppers, summer summer leeks leeks (short (short leeks), leeks), Clamart Clamart peas peas and and othlrj,-large others, large sweet sweet rugose rugose peas, peas (mange-tout), early potatoes, purslane, greenind (m.'ln~'p-l·nU/l early potatoes, purslane, green and gold, for salad. Savory, thyme, thyme,tomatoes, tomalocs,spinach. spinach. September - Pink garlic, Laon artichokes, artichokes, aubergines. aubergines. garlic, Laon Carrots, Carrots, (red, (red, short short and and medium medium length), length), celery, celery, ch-ervil, cherviJ, mushrooms mushrooms (cultivated), (cultîvated), cbpes cèpes and and cianterelles,'skirret chan/erelles, skirret (a(a kind of salsify),endive endiveand andescarole, escarole,round-headed round-headedcabbages cabbages kindofsalsify), and andcudy curlysavoy savoycabbages, cauliflowers, cauJiflowers,spring springonions onionsa-nd and chives, chives, cucumbers cucumbcrsand gherkins, gourds gourds(winler (winter squash squash_premature), premature),watercress, walercress,garden gardencress. cressoString Stringbeans, beans,French french 966 966

(mange-tout),fresh beans beans(mange-toUl), poddingharicot freshpodding haricotbeans (whiteand beans(white and coloured). coloured).Cabbage Cabbageand andcos coslettuces, lettuces,bay baylaurel, laurel,drÎed driedlentils. lentils. Chestnuts Chestnutsand (Lyonsvariety) andmarrons marrons(Lyons variety)water watermelons (pas_ melons(pasteques). t e que s). Long-rootedand yellowanions, andflat-rooted fl at-roo tedturnips. turnips.Yellow onio ns, sorrel. common and cmly parsley, peppers, new sorrel. Parsnips, common and curly parsley, peppers, new re green lee ks, SwÎss leeks, Swisschard, chard,lalate greenpeas peasand andlarge largesweet sweetrugose rugose peas (mange4out),potatoes (mange-toUl), potatoes(mature), (mature), purslane, purslane,green greenand and gold, (saladvariety). (salad variety). Radishes, Radishes, long longand andmedium-Iength. medium-length. Spanish Spinish scolyme (a kind of salsify). Tbyme, tomatoes (outdoor). scolyme (a kind of salsify). Thyme, tomatoes louidoor).New New Zealand Zealand spinach. October- - GarlÎc, Garlic,Laon Laonartichokes, artichokes, aubergines. aubergines.Red Redcarcarrots, rots,(shon, (short, medium-Iength medium-length and andlong) long)ceJery, celery,celeriaç, celeriag, mushmush_ rooms and chanterelles, skirret, chervil, rooms(cultivated), (cultivated), cèpes cdpes and chanterelles, skirret, chervil, endive endive and andescarole, escarole, wild wildchicory. chicory. Belgjan Belgian chicory, chicory,roundroundheaded headedand andcurly curly savoy savoy cabbages (autumn (autumn variety), varieiy), caulicauliftowers, flowers, springanions onions and and chives, various various gourds,waterwaterString beans, (mangecresso cress. Shallots,spinach, spinach. String beans, Frenchbeans (mange_ JOUI), tout), fresh fresh podding podding haricot haricot beans (white and beans (white andcoloured). coloured). Various Various varieties varieties of of cabbage cabbage lettuce, lettuce,cos cos lettuces, yellow and lettuces, yellow and green. Corn green. Corn salad, salad, chestnuts chestnuts and and marrons, marrons, Lyon variety, cantaloup and others. Long-rooted cantaloup melons melons and others. Long-rooted and flat_roodd parsnips, common turnips. turnips. Yellow Yellow onions, onions, sorre!. sorrel. Parsnips, common and curly and curly parsley, peppers, parsley, peppers, dandeLions dandelions (from (from the the fields). fields), leeks, leeks, Swiss Swisi chard, chard, green green peas, large large sweet sweet rugose peas, potatoes potatoei of of aIl all varieties, long and varieties, gourds and pumpkins. Radishes,long and pumpkins. and mediummediumlength length (monthly), (monthly), black black winter winter radishes, radishes, horseradish (roots), horseiadish (roots), rampion rampion (the (the small small white white roots roots are are eaten eaten along along with with the the leaves). leaves). White White salsify, salsify, black black salsify salsify or or scorzonera, scorzonera, Spanish Spanish scolyme. scolyme. Thyme, Thyme, lomatoes. tomatoes. November -- Garlic, green artichokes Garlic, green artichokes from from Laon (scarce). Laon (scarce). Red Red beetroot beetroot (already (already cooked). cooked). Cardoons, Cardoons, red red carrots, carroti, medium-length and and long. long. Celery, celeriac, celeriac, chervil, chervil, mushmushr"IIl\J·"t,·ri rooms (cultivated), skirret, endive and and escarole, escarole, Bclgian Belgian and chicory, round-headed white cabbages cabbages and curly Savoy Sivoy cabbagcs (autumn variety), variety), Brussels Brussels sprouts, cabbages (autumn sprouts, caulifloweis (late), (lale), swedes and kohlrabi, watercress, watercress, Japanese Japanese artîchokes. artichokes. French &ans beans (mange-tout), Spinach. String String beans, beans, French Spinach. (mange-tout), fresh ftesh podding haricot beans. Cabbage Cabbage and and cos cos lettuces. leu\.!ces. LambsLambslettuce. Long-rooted Long-rooted and and flat-rooted flat-rooted turnips. turnips. yellow Yellow onions, onions. sorre!. Parsnips, Parsnips, round round and and long, long, commorand common and curly curly parsley, parsley, sorrel. leeks, chard. dandelions dandelions (from (from the the fields), fields), all aIl varieties varieties of of leeks., Swiss Swiss chard, potato, potato, gourds gourds and and pumpkins. pumpkins. Radishes, Radishes, round round and and mediummediumlength (monthly), (monthly), black black winter wÎnter radishes, radishes, rampion. rampion. White White lt1qt! Thyme, tomatoes tomatoes (imported), (imported), truffies. truffles. salsify, black black salsify. salsify. Thyme, salsify, Oecember -- Garlic, Garlic, forced forced asparagus asparagus (veiy (very scarce scarce and and very very December Salad beet beet (already (already cooked). cooked). Red Red carroti, carrots, expensive, early). early). Salad expensive, long long and and medium-length, medium~leng!h, celery, celery, celeriac, celeriac, chervil, chervil. bulbous bulbous chervil, chervil, endive endive (chicory) (chicory) and and escarole, escarole, wild wild chicory, chicory, Belgian Belgian round-headed cabbages, cabbages, curly curly savoy savoy iabbiges, cabbages, chicory, round-headed chicory, Brussels Brussels sprouts, sprouts, cauliflowers cauliflowers (late), (Iate), s*ides, swedes, sprilg oni6ni onions and and chives, chives, watercress, watercress, Japanese artichokes. artichokes. Shall,o-ts, spinspinach,dried driedharicot haricotbeans, beans, string beans beans (imported, (imported, scarce, scarce,early early ach, variety). and expensive). expensive). LambsLambsvariety). Winter Win ter lettuces lettuces (scarce (scarce and lettuce. lettuce. Long-rooted Long-rootcdand and flat-rooted flat-rooted turnips. turnips. yellow Yellowonions, onions, sorre! (grown (grown under under glass). glass). parsnips, common common and and curly curly sorrel parsley, white whitedandelions dandelions(forced), (forced), Swiss chard, chard,potatoes (ail (ail varieties), pumpkins. pumpkins. Radishes Radishes(forced), (forced).horseradish (roois), (roots), rampion. rampion. White While salsify, salsify, black black salsify. salsify. Thyme, Thyme, tomatoei tomaroes (imported), (imported),truffies. truffies.

VEGETABLEPEAR P.E,AR-- See SeeCHAyOTE. CHAYOTE. VEGETABLE VELOUTÉ- -This Thisname nameisisused usedmore morethan thananything anythingelse elsefor foraa VELOUTE white saucemade madewith withwhite whiteveal vealororchicken chickenstock, stock.used usedasasaa whitesauce numberofofother othersauces, sauces,notably allemande. allemande. basefor foraanumber base The Theword wordisisalso alsoused usedtotodescribe describecertain thickened thickenedsoups soups

(see (seeSOUPS SOUPSAND ANDBROTHS). BROTHS).

Thereare aremeat meatand andfish fishveloutis. velowés.The Thefirst firstisisobtained obtainedbv by There addingwhite whitestock, stock,veal vealororpoultry poultrytotowhite whiteroux roux(ablend (a blendofof adding

VIN VIN DES DES NOCES NOCES gardens. gardens. The The dried dried leaves leaves of of verbena, verbena, which which are are highly highly scented, scented, are are used used to to make make infusions. infusions. _ Vf,RY VÉRY - SCC See RESTAURANTS RESTAURANTS OF OF BYGONE BYGONE DAYS. DA YS. VESPfTRO VESPÉTRO -- Old Old liqueur, liqueur, which which formerly formerly had had a a high high reputation, reputation, now now hardly hardly ever ever made made in in France. France. ItIt was was made made in in the the district district round round Metz, Metz, and and its its fame, fame, which which was was very very great great in in the the eighteenth eighteenth century, century, came came chiefly chiefly from from the that Louis Louis XV XV drank drank aa great great deal deal of of it it tolestore to estore his his the fact fact that failing It was was flavoured flavoured with with the the seeds seeds of of angelica, angelica, failing strength. strength. It coriander, and fennel. fenne!. coriander, anise anise and VETCH. VETCH. crssn GESSE -- Name Name used used for for several several different different pulses, pulses, some sorne originally from of of them them used used as as food. food. The The cultivated cultivated vetch, vetch, originally from into Spain, was the the Caucasus, Caucasus, then then cultivated cultivated in in Spain, was imported imported into seeds seventeenth century. of the France France about about the the middle middle of the seventeentb century. Its Its seeds are are eaten eaten green, green, like like peas. peas. The chick-peas. The way as in the the same same way Chick-vetch is used used in as chick-peas. Chick-vetch is and hot ash, in roasted is which root has a starchy tuber-vetch tuber-vetch has a starchy root which is roasted in hot ash, and chestnuts. tastes rather like like chestnuts. tas tes rather good for for be good to be are thought thought to (Carrots ài la) Carrots are ta) -- Carrots VICHY VICHY (Carrots whose Vichy, whose at Vichy, used at much used are much liver and and are the liver of the aflictions of afflictions For conditions. For for hepatic hepatic conditions. particularly favourable favourable for waters are are particularly waters (see CARROTS). CARROTS). la Vichy Vichy (see preparationof Carrots àd la the preparation the of Carrots to dedicated to of dishes dishes dedicated great num number There are are aa great VICTORIA -- There VICTORIA ber of (or other other sole (or known are: are: sole best known of the the best Some of Victoria. Sorne Queen Victoria. and bombe bombe Victoria and salade Victoria poularde Victoria, Victoria, salade Victoria, poularde fish) fish) Victoria, Victoria.

butter butter and and flour). flour). The The second second isis made made with with fish fish stock stock or or fish fish fumet. fumet. When egg egg yolks yolks are are added added for for thickening, thickening, the the velouti velouté When becomesallemande allemande sauce. sauce. This This sauce sauce isis used used very very frequently. frequently. becomes Veloutéisisthe thebasis basisfor for most mostwhite white sauces. sauces. Recipes Recipes for for these these Veloutd areto to be be found found in in alphabetical alphabetical order order under under SAUCE. SAUCE. are VELVET SWIMMING SWIMMING CRAB. CRAB. ENTRTLLE ENTRILLE -- Common Common name name VELVET for crab (see (see CRAB). CRAB). for the tbe small, small, delicate-fleshed delicate-fleshed crab VENISON. vENAIsoN VENAISON -- The Tbe meat meat of of any any kind kind of of deer. deer. In In YENISON. meat of of any any Freneh, and and formerly formerly in in English, English, itit described described the the meat Freneh, of game game animal animal or or wild wild beast beast killed killed for for food, food, and basse basse kind of kind hare or venaison is the the meat meat of ofhare or wild wild rabbit. rabbit. venaisonis For other other recipes recipes for for venison, venison, see see ROEBUCK. ROEBUCK. For Haunch of v€nison venison (English (Eoglisb cookery). cookery). HANcHE HANCHE DB DE Haunch flour venison with Rub the the quarter quarter of ofvenison with aa mixture mixture of offlour VENAISON -- Rub vENAIsoN and pepper, pepper, and and hang hang itit in aa cool, cool, well-aired well-aired place place and and leave leave and for 3 or 4 days. for3or4days. Trim and and cover coyer completely completely with Flour-and-water Flour-and-water To cook. cook. Trim To paste (see DOUGH). Wrap in strong paper' paper, tie with string. paste of often, allowing 3 to 4 hours for a haunch of Roast, basting often, veOlson. venison. oven take off the removing from the oyen Ten minutes before removing over the meat and pour melted butter over flour-and-water paste, pour flour-and-water oven' sprinkle it with salt salt and flour. Brown Brown in a very very hot oyen. sprinkle The custom in England is to serve the haunch of venison jelly. redcurrantjelly. with boiled French beans beans and redcurrant with

in cockle, found in VENUS -- Type Type of of mollusc usually called the cockle, VENUS ail all seas. seas. like raw, like are eaten eaten raw, Ali types types of They are are edible. edible' They of these these are All oysters, or cooked like mussels. mussels.

(2| lb., lb', kg. (2! plum cake using 1I kg. cake using like plum Made like CAKE -- Made VICTORIA CAKE VICTORIA g. oz., 250 (li sugar, g. cups) lb., 3t 4| butter, 750 cups) 4t cups) butter, 750 g. (l~ lb., 3!- cups) sugar, 250 g. (9(9oz., 22 eggs eggs with 22 eggs, eggs, 22 mixed with ground almonds almonds mixed generous 22 cups) cups) ground generous with 33 mixed with flour mixed (3* lb., 14 cups) cups) flour (put in lb., 14 kg. (31 l| kg. one by by one), one), I!in one (put crystallised (lS oz., 2|cups) g. (18 oz., 2! powder, 500 500 g. baking powder, teaspoons baking cups) crystallised teaspoons peel, 1I d!. dl. (6(6 (14 oz., chopped peel, cups) chopped l| cups) oz., I~ 400 g.g. (14 cheriies, 400 cherries, 2lemons, 22 grated rind of 2lemons, rind of the grated rum, the cup) rum, scant l cup) tablespoons, scant tablespoons, powdered cloyes. cloves. teaspoons powdered and 22 teaspoons cinnamon and teaspoons cinnamon teaspoons to in confectionery confectionery to used in implement used Small implement VIDELLE -- Small VIDELLE name isisaa this name by this known by Also known fruits. Also from fruits. remove the the stones stones from remove pastry-cutter. kind of wheel pastry-cutter. of wheel kind pastryfrom from short pastry Make aashort KNUsPER - - Make PASTRY. KNUSPER VIENNESE PASTRY. VIENNESE butter, cup) butter, oz', 1Icup) (12 oz., flour,225 cups)sieved sievedflour, oz., 33cups) 350 g.g.(12 225 g.g.(8(8oz., 350 and,ifif cinnamon and, (6 oz., teaspoon cinnamon cup)sugar, sugar, 1I teaspoon 175g.g. (6 oz.,scant scant cup) 175 minutes. for 1515minutes. standfor dough stand Letthe thedough milk. Let little milk. necessary, aa little necessary, Brush the the baking tin. tin. Brush buttered baking out and andspread spread inin aa buttered Roll itit out Roll and almonds and with chopped chopped almonds andsprinkle sprinkle with with egg eggand surface with surface 5)' (375'F., Gas Mark5). GasMark 190'C.(37SOF., Bakeatat190°C. crystallised sugar. sugar. Bake crystallised While oven.While outof ofthe theoyen. goodcolour, takeititout colour, take When the cake isisaagood thecake When kept orkept freshor beeaten eaten fresh canbe rectangles. ItItcan cutilitinto intorectangles. hotcut stillhot ititisisstill tin. forseveral daysininaatin. several days for juice, pepperand lemonjuice, andlemon withsalt, salt,pepper Buttermixed mixedwitb VIERGE- - Butter VIERGE whipped Thiswhipped frothy.This becomesfrothy. bowluntil until ititbecomes wellininaabowl beaten weil beaten vegetables. boiledvegetables. otherboiled andother withasparagus asparagusand butter isisserved servedwith butter

large juice extracted from large VERJUICE. extracted from Acid juice vERJUs -- Acid VERJUICE. VERJUS unripened grapes, used like vinegar. vinegar. verius wotd verjus the word Sorne times the former times in former that in writers say say that Some writers Paris' of Paris. meant sauce which was streets of in the the streets was sold sold in verte,which sauce verte,

t

an Here isis an vERrus -- Here VERJUICE DE VERJUS cLAREQUETs DE JELLY. CLAREQUETS VERJUICE JELLY. jelly: ancient recipe for for this this jelly: (6 purde with 3+ litres litres (6 ({ cup) with 31 'Dilute apple purée cup) apple 'Dilute 44 tablespoons tablespoons (-!pints) (6-pints, of 7| pints, pints) water; sieve until 31 litres (6 pints, 71 pints) of litres 3j sieve until pints) pints, 71 water; fi (6 pints, pints, 71 7| 3f litres litres (6 the pound and sieve 3-t and sieve obtained; pound itre mixture mixiure isis obtained; pints) ofunder-ripe grapes' verjuice grapes. of under-ripe verjuice -pints) hard to aa hard 'Clarify cook to and cook (l? lb., sugar and lb., 3!3| cups) cups) sugar g. (I~ 'Clarify 750 750 g. add the the heat and and add crack the heat (see SUGAR). from the Remove from crack (see SUGAR). Remove together verjuice blended together previously blended mixture previously apple mixture verjuice and and tbe the apple with wooden spoon. with aa wooden spoon. jelly into 'Reheat into clarequet clarequet pour the the jelly 'Reheat without then pour without boiling, boiling, then (sm ail) moulds place to to set.' set.' (small) put in warm place in aa warm moulds and and put

VERMICELLI - A pasta its suggests its namesuggests pasta whose whosedescriptive descriptive name VERMICELLI-A wormlike puddingsand souffies. and soufflés. for soups, soups, puddings used for form. ItIt isisused wormlike form. vermut VERMOUTH German vermut the German from the deriving from Word deriving VERMOUTH -- Word various wbicb with various flavoured with wine flavoured white wine absinthe. AAwhite which means means absinthe. bitter coriancinnamon, coriananise,cinnamon, absinthe,anise, asabsinthe, suchas bitter ingredients ingredients such der, quinine, elderberries, elderberries, quassia, quinine, peel,cloyes, cloves, quassia, bittir orange orange peel, der, bitter etc. etc.

CHEESE. SeeCHEESE. VILLEDIEU- -See VILLEDIEU wasthe the thiswas Formerly this DEVIN POTDE DUMARCHÉ MARCHEoT VINDU VIN or POT VIN - -Formerly actedasasanan who hadacted presenttotosomeone givenasasa apresent someone whohad winegiven wine replaced waslater laterreplaced transaction. ItItwas businesstransaction. intermediary ininaabusiness intermediary of money. sumofmoney. presentof kindorora asum ofany anykind byaapresent by

VÉRON BYGONE OFBYGONE (caf6) - - See RESTAURANTS OF SeeRESTAURANTS vfRoN (Café) DAYS. DAYS. VERT-PRÉ meats, grilled meats, certaingrilled preparingcertain ofpreparing Method of VERT-PRE - - Method garnisbed with andserved servedwitb watercressand potatoes and andwatercress garnished with withstraw strawpotatoes Maître butters), (seeBUTTER, Compoundbutters), BUTTER, Compound butter(see d hbtel butter Mattre d'hôtel containing parsley. plentyof ofchopped chopped parsley. containing plenty Certain with coatedwith fish,coated poultryororfish, suchasaspoultry Certainfoodstuffs, foodstuffs,sucb Green vert'pri. calledvert-pré. (seeS~UCE), alsocalled arealso S{UCE),are Greenmayonnaise mayonnaise(see

gift winewas wasa agift Thiswine (Marriagewine) wine)- -This YINDES DESNOCES NOCES(Marriage VIN '[n ceremony.'In performeda amarriage marriageceremony. priestwho whoperformed offeredtotothe thepriest offered ( D i c t ionnair e his t o r ique s de s M.Chernel Chernel(Dictionnaire saysM. dioceses,'says certaindioceses,' certain historiques des priest,inin 'thepriest, France)'the coutumesdedeFrance) institutions,moeurs moeursetetcoutumes institutions, winetoto whitewine redand andwhite togetherred mixedtogether nuptialbed, bed,mixed blessingthe thenuptial blessing bridegroom. brideand andbridegroom. thebride unionofofthe symbolizethe theunion symbolize the blessingthe priestbegan byblessing beganby thepriest Amiens,the dioceseofofAmiens, 'Inthe thediocese 'In

VERVAIN, cultivated inin Plantcultivated vERVEINE- - Plant VERBENA.VERVEINE VERVAIN, VERBENA. 967 967

VINAGE, FORTIFICATION VINAGE, FORTIFICATION bread and wine. He then dipped three roties (rusks) in the bread He then (rusks) in the wine, and one wine. for himself, onedipped forthe three bridal rolies pair and the third for wine, one for himself, one for present the bridai pair and the third for the friends and relations at the ceremony. After the friends and relations present at the ceremony. After taking-his own, he gave the bridal pair theirs and finisired with taking own, he guests. gave theThen bridai pair theirs and finished wi th that ofhisthe other he blessed the bed.' that of the other guests. Then he blessed the bed.'

YINAGE, FORTIFICATION

Addition of alcohol to

VINAGE, FORTIFICATION - -Addition of akohol to a must or a wine. must or a wine. YINNGRETTE - Mixture of oil and vinegar seasoned with VINAIGRETTE - Mixture of oilwith and vinegar seasoned with salt_and pepper and sometimes the adlition of chopped salt and(See pepper and sometimes with the addition of chopped herbs. SAUCE, Cold sauces.) herbs. (See SAUCE, Cold sauces.) VINAIGRIER - Small barrel, of wood or earthenware, in VINAIGRIER - made. Small barrel, of wood or earthenware, in which vinegar is which vinegar is made. VINCENT - Cold sauce prepared with various herbs, VINCENT - Cold and sauce prepared with various herbs, blanched, pounded sieved, and hard boiled eggs. (See blanched, pounded and sieved, and hard boiled eggs. (See SAUCE, Cold sauces.l SAUCE, Cold sauces.)

a

Spraying vines vines in in tthe Gironde Spraying he Gironde

should like like that,' that,' said said Noah. Noah. '1'I should The vine vine planted, planted, the the devil devil went went in in search search ofa of a lamb, lamb. aa lion, lion. The and aa pig. pig. He He cut cut their their throats poured their throats and and poured their aa.monkey monkey and blood on ground. on the the ground. blood 'That is is why why when when man man eats eats the the fruit fruit of of the the vine vine he he is is as 'That gentle as a lamb, when he drinks he believes believes himself aa a lamb, wh en he drinks wine he gentle as lion, if by by chance chance he he drinks drinks too too much much he grimaces like he grimaces like a lion, if monkey and and when when he often drunk drunk he he is nothing more more than a monkey he is is often is nothing vile pig.' vile pig.' Vine leaves. FEUTLLES DE vrcNE _ See LEAF. Vine leaves. FEUJLLES DE VIGNE - See LEAF. produce VINEGAR. VINEGAR. vrNArcREVINAIGRE- Produce of of the the acetic acetic fermentation fermentation of wine under the action the Mycoderma aceti, wine under the action of of a a fungus, fungus, the ace/i, making making its its first first appearance appearance in in the the form fonn of of a light light veil, which which penetrates the liquid more and more, forming a thick, penetra tes the liquid more and more, forming a thick, folded, folded, sticky sticky skin, ski n, which which is is called called the the mdre mère de de vinaigre. vinaigre. This This micro_ microorganism is developed between 15" and 30"C.-159" and g6.F.). organism is developed between IS° and 30°C. (59° and 86°F.). good vinegar vinegar must must be be clear clear and and transparent, transparent, colourless colourless if if . .AA good itit isis made made from from white white wine, wine, pinkish pinkish ifif itit comes cornes from from red red wine, wine, but but always always lighter lighter coloured coloured than than the the latter. latter. ItIt must must have have aa frankly and an an aroma aroma recalling recalling that that of of the the wine wine frankly acid acid taste, taste, and from from which which ititcomes. cornes. Vinegar is made Vinegar is made of of any any kind !Und of of alcoholic alcoholic liquid liquid (alcoho(alcoholised water, beer, cider, perry, milk, etc.). Alcohol vinegar is lised water, beer, cider, perry, milk, etc.). Akohol vinegar is colourless if it has not been tinted with caramel. cider viiegar colourless if it has not been tinted with caramel. Cider vinegar isisyellowish, yellowish,always alwaysless lessacid acid than thanwine winevinegar; vinegar; beer beervinelar vinegar isis yellow, yellow, slightly slightly bitter bitter and and its its flavour ftavour recills recalls that that of ofbitter bitter beer. beer. Glucose Glucosevinegar vinegarhas has aa taste taste of offermented fermented flour; ftour; wood wood vinegar vinegar has has an an acid acid taste; taste; vinegar vinegar made made from from piquettes piquettes or or from frommarc marchas hasaacharacteristic characteristicsmell. smel!. ftIt isis an everyday condiment, an everyday condiment, serving serving to to conserve conserve some sorne substances substances inin marinades marinades or or pickler, pickles, und and has has no no disadvan_ disadvantages, so long as acid condiments are not forbidden in the tages, so long as acid condiments are not forbidden in the diet. diet.For Fortable tableuse, use,vinegar vinegarisisoften oftenflavoured ftavouredwith withtarragon, tarragon, onion, onion,shallot, shallot,herbs. herbs,etc. etc. The use of vinegar as seasoning forfoodstuffs foodstuffshas hasaahigh high - The use of vinegar as seasoningfor place in.the story of human diet. Gieek and Roman antiquity, place in the story ofhuman diet. Greek and Romanantiqui[,, 2xybaphon oxybaphonand andacetabulum acetabulum(vinegar (vinegarvessel) vessel)were werethe thenu-"i names fortowls for bowlsthat thatwere wereplaced, placed,filled filled*ith withuin"gur, vinegar,on onthe thedining dining table, guests to dip their bread in. for table, for guests to dip their bread in. Inlnthe thethirteenth thirteenthcentury, century,among amongthe thestreet streetvendors vendorswho who had the right to cry their wares in piris, some roiled a barrel had the right to cry their wares in Paris, sorne rolled a barrel ininthe thestreet, street,announcing announcingtotothe thehiltetiers hôteliersand andhousewives: housewives:

pruning the vine in the Mddoc Pruning the vine in tbe Médoc

VINE. vrcNE - Plant growing wild in Europe and Asia VINE. whose VIGNE discovery - Plant growing wild in Europe and Asia Minor, is attributed to divine intervention. whose discovery attributed to divine intervention. ItMinor, is mentioned in Genesisisand in the most ancient Egyptian It isGreek mentioned in Genesis and in the most ancient Egyptian and documents. In antiquity the Greek vine gro-wirs of and Greek documents. In antiquity the Greek vine growers of

Scio we-re particularly renowned. Among the Romans the Scio were particularly renowned. Among the Romans the wines of Campania, Falernia, Massicus, n"ta first place.

wines of Campania, Falernia, Massicus,"it. etc. held first place. It appears from recent archaeological discoveries that

lt had appears recent discoveries that vines been from cultivated in archaeological Gaul long before the country's vines had been cultivated in Gaul long before the country's occupation by the Greeks and the Romans. But although the occupation theresponsible Greeks andfor the Romans. But although the invaders werebynot introducing the vineio the

invaders they were not responsible introducing the vine to the country, probably gave for considerable impetus to its country, theyAnd probably gave considerable impetus to its development. while they may not have actually taught development. And while may not havegrape actually the Gauls how to make winethey from iermented juice,taught d;t the Gauls howcertainly to make wine from fennented grapejuice, they were almost responsible for intiod-uiing -or! certainly for introducing more were almost elaborate processes of vinifiresponsible cation. elaborate processes of vinification. The legend of the vine (from the Talmud ) : The legend ofthe the vine. vine (jrom the Talmud): Noah planted Noah planted the doing vine. there?' 'And what are you the devil asked him. what area you 'I'And am planting vine.idoing there?' the devil asked him. '1 am isplanting 'What the use aofvine.; that?' 'What the usepicked of that?' 'Its fruit,isfggslly or dried, is sweet and good: 'Its fruit, freshly picked dried, is sweet and good: the pressed juice gladdensor the heart of man.' the us pressed gladdens heart of man.' 'Let work juice together,, said the the devil. 'Let us work together,' said the devil. 968

968

VITAMINS !' ('Good 'Vinaigres 'Vinaigresbons bonsetetbiaux biaux!! vinaigre vinaigrede demoutarde moutardei iail aïl!' ('Good and beautiful beautifulvinegars vinegars!! Mustard Mustardand and garlic garlic vinegar!'). vinegar!'). and 'In 'In 1657, 1657, an anedict edict of ofCharles Charles IX IX accorded accorded the the bourgeois bourgeois of of Paris the the privilege of of selling selling vinegar made made from from the the wine wine of of Paris their vineyards, vineyards, in small small quantities and and dà pot' pOL, and and itit was was their chiefly this this that tbat the the young young boys boys sold sold as as they they wheeled whee1ed their their chiefly barrows from from one one district district to to another, another, crying crying at at every every door, door, barrows !' 'marchand ! du 'marchandde de vinaigre vinaigre! du bon bon vinaigre vinaigre!' Aromatic vinegar. vinegar. vINAIGRE VlNAlGRE ARoMATIQUT AROMATIQUE -- A A mixture mixture of of Aromatic 125 g: g. (4 (4 oz.) oz.) spirit spirit of of aromatic aromatic herbs herbs with with 99 dl. dl. (l+ (11 pints, pints, 22 125 pints) pints) vinegar. vinegar. vinegar. VINAIcRE FRAMBoISE - Pour Pour into into aa Raspberry vinegar. 2 litres (3| pints, 4| pints) vinegar vinegar and and as as many many stoneware jar 2litres raspberries as as itit will will hold. Leave for 88 days. days. Strain Strain without without raspberries pressure pressure through through aa horsehair horsehair strainer. strainer. VlNAlGRE RosAT ROSAT -- Add Add 100 100 g. g. (4 (4 oz') oz.) red red rose rose Rose vinegar. vINAIGRE Rose petals to'l to 1 litre (lf (1 %pints, pints, generous generous quart) quart) of of vinegar vinegar and and to nfdcerate rriàcerate for for l0 10 days. days. leave to

mainly blackcurrants and and green green vegetablesvegetables. mainly in in citrus citrus fruits, fruits, blackcurrants Necessary Necessary for for the the growth growth of ofchildren, children, and and healthy healthy skin skin and and firm, firm, strong strongmuscles. muscles. down laying and absorption for the Vitamin Vitamin D. D. Necessary Necessary for the absorption and laying down of of calcium calcium and and phosphorus in in bones bones which which helps helps to to keep keep them them strong. strong. ItIt isis found in in dairy dairy products and and oily fish. fisb. Vitamin.E. Vitamin E. Essential Essential for for normal metabolism metabolism and found found in' in germ eggs. and wheat vegetable.oils, vegetableoils, wheat germ and

Vitamins Vitamins in in dietetics dietetics -- The The role that that vitamins vitamins play play in in the the

phenomena phenomena of ofnutrition nutrition isis still still not not completely completely clear c1ear but but there there is is no no doubt doubt that that these these chemical chemical substances substances so so extraordinarily extraordinarily proper for the are essential amounts in infinitesimal active active in infinitesimal amounts are essential for the proper functioning functioning of of the the human human organism. O.rganism. A A tolerably tolerably a@urate accurate has requirements vitamin individual assessment of assessment of individual vitarr;in has been been reached reached as as aa result result of of aa multiple series of of experiments experiments on on into account took experiments Such humans. and animals animais and humans. Such took into account the' the

geographical ge,oglraç)hi,cal location, location, temperament, temperament, age age of of the the individual individual and the the muscular muscular effort effort required required of of him. him. Vitarnins Vitamins are are divided d-ivided into ioto two two categories: categories ~ those those soluble soluble in in fats fats (liposoluble (liposoluble vitamins), vitamins), namely namely Vitamins Vitamins A, A, D, D, E E and and K; K; the (hydro-soluble vitamins) and and those those soluble soluble in in water water (hydro-soluble vitamins) -- the Vitamin Vitamin B B groups groups and and Vitamin Vitamin C. C. The The whole whole art art of of the the daily needs dietician ln calculating calculating an an individual's individual's dail)' needs in in dietician lies lies in essential these vitamins.It terms terms of of the the properties of of each each of ofthese vitamins. It is is essential is different. case to to remember remember that in in this this domain domain every every case is different. of our our organs' Lack Lack of of vitamins vitamins upsets upsets the the equilibrium equilibriumof organs, whole glands and consequently the and endocrine endocrine glands tissues tissues and and consequently the whole physical dedeand physical glowth, mental mental and physiological process of of growth, physiological process longevity. disease-and longevity. to dis.easeand resistance to velopnrent,t, youth, velopmen you th, vigour, vigour, resistance which, cornpounds which, organic compounds Vitamins are are rather rather unstable Vitamins unstable organic On cooking. by partially destroyed nevertheless, only are 'the nevertheless, are only partially destroyed by cooking. On ,the prolonged to prolonged particularly sensitive sensitive to are particularly other hand, they are other band, they consume to consume desirable to light; itit isis therefore therefore desirable and light, exposure ta to air air and exposure diet possible. A A well~balanced well'balanced diet fresh as as possible. as fresh fruit as and fruit vegetables and vef~et;ibles vegetables fruit and raw of amount a inJluding moderate inc:IUldiTlg a moderate amount of raw fruit and vegetables. healthy for aa Ilealthy vitamins for varied vitamins of varied sufficiency of assures aa sufficiency assures of arnount of an excessive to eat eat an excessive amount It isis Dot not necessary necessary to individual. It individual. Nor of vitanins- Nor proper amount amount ofvitamins. the proper to obtain obtain the vegetables to raw vegetables raw thing irnportant thing the important vitamins::the the vitamins to swallow swallow the enough just to isis itit enoughjust be,as sometimes be.as can sometimes vita'rnins can many vitamins Too many them. Too is to to assimilate assi.milate them. is of to be be wary .of advisable to ferv, and and itit isis advisable as .too too few, harmful as harmful unless presribed by aa 'synthetic' vitamins vitamins unless pharmaceutical 'synthetic' pharmaceuti-cal that .of of natura1 natural to that be compared to cannot be action cannot Their .action doctor. Their doctor. thela,tter of the that the molecules of reason that vitamins, for the simple reason latter vitamins, plant. those of th€ plant. to those are Iinked linked to are to {heir (in according Foods c1assified classified (in descendingorder) descending order) accordmg to ·their Foods Randoin). Lucie Randoin). vitamins. (Mme richness ln in specifie specific vitamins. lMme' Lucie richness yolk' beef fat, fat' liver, egg oil, liver, liver .oil, cod Iiver Butter, cod Vitamin A. l. Butter, -egg yolk.,beef Vitamin carcheese,'spinach, powder, cream cream chees.e, milk powder, cream, milk tomatoes, cream, tomat.oes, spinach, carheart, braias, l1eart, herring brains, fish oil, oil, hernng, orange, fish lemon, orange, rots, cahbage, cabbage, lemon, rots, cereal lettuct, cereal cauliflovrer, lettuce., mushrooms, caulifiower, fatty meat, meat, mushrooms, kidney, fatty kidney, peag beetroot, fresh pea-s., boetroot, bread, fresh wholemeal bread, grain, wbeat bran, wbolemeal wheat bran, grain, pumpk-in, bananas, pumpkin, watrnuts, bananas, artichokes, lentils, lentils, almonds, almonds, walnuts, artichokes, haricot beans. beans. haricot yolk, egg yolk, lentils, egg yeast, ccreal c,ereal germ,lentils, Brewer's yeast, Vitamin B. Vitamin ^B-Brewer's onions, cauliflower, ornons, carrots, spinach,cauliflower, cabbage, carrots, brain, Iiver, liver, cabbage, brain,

VIOLET. vtolErrE V10LETIE -- The The sweet sweet violet violet is is one one of of the the species species of of VIOLET. fleurs pectorales.Their pectorales. Their petals petais are are candied candied in in sugar. fleurs Candied violets are are used used in in pastry-making, pastry-making, confectionery, confectionery, Candied the making ma king of of ices ices and iced iced mousses, and in in the preparation preparation of salads. salads. of it comes cornes VIRGOULEUSE - Winter pear, so called because it commune of Virgoul6e, near Limoges. Limoges. from the commune coulibiac Rissole made with with coulibiac VISNISKI (Russian cookery) - Rissole seasoned fish forcemeat seasoned filled with fish paste (see COULIBIAC) filled

with fennel, and fried. coulibiac some coulibiac Make sorne VlSNlSKI AU AU PoIssoN POISSON -- Make Fish visniski. vISMSKI pieces about about pastry-cutter into pieces cut with a pastry-cutter dough. Roll Roll out and eut 5 cm. (2 inches) in diameter. chopped which chopped fish to to which cooked fish Garnish chopped cooked with chopped Garnish with with aa thick thick blend with and blend Season and fennel has been been added. added. Season fennel has garnish the garnish portions of of the The portions (see SAUCE). The Veloutd (see meatless Velouté coulibiac of coulibiac should of aa walnut. Cover with a round of should be the size of one. size as the first one. dough dough of of the same size warm in aa warm rise in Let them them lise baking-tray. Let visniski on on aa baking-tray. Put Put the the visniski serve' and serve. Drain and oil. Drain place for for 25 25 minutes. minutes. Fry in very hot oil.

nutrito nutriindispensable to Substances indispensable VITAMINS. vITAMINES -- Substances VITAMINS. VITAMINES disorders. serious disorders. cause tion, use serious can ca whose absence absence can tion, whose yellow carotene, aa yellow from carotene, mainly from Vitamin Derived mainly l. Denved Vitamin A. partivegetables, partiin sorne some vegetables, pigment that extensively in pigment found extensively that isis found in also exists exists in vitamin also The vitamin green ones carrots. The and carrots. cularly ones and cularly green and, gives rise eye troubles tioubles and, rise to to eye sorne Its absence absence gives foods. Its uni*ul foods. so*. animal growth. young people, people,'aa stoppage of of growth. in in young rice. ltIt of nce. in the the hhusks discovered in Vitamin B. This usks of This was was first discovered Vitamin.B. of three three mainly of composed mainly compound, composed isis nowadays as aa compound, seen as nowadays seen factors: factors: dealkaloids deto the the alkaloids base, related related to Vitam in BI. Nitrogen base, Vitamin Br. Nitrogen an antineurotic antineurotic alkalis. ItIt isisan and alkalis. stroyed by high high temperatures temperatures and stroyed by nervous of the the nervous part inin the equilibrium of plays its the equilibrium its part factor factor and and plays system. system. milk, found inin milk, yellow substance substance found Vitam in 82. Riboflavin, fuboflavin, aa yellow Vitamin ofheat degrees of very high highdegrees all bu butt very eggs hea taand nd resists ail in liver. 1Itt resists eggs and and in skin causesskin growth, and itsabsence absence causes and its ongrowth, alkalis. alkalis. ItIt has hasan an effect effecton troubles to pellagra. troubles similar similar to byalalkalis; destroyed by but isisdestroyed Vitamin kalis ; ititisisaa Vitamin BJ. Br. Resists heat, but body. bythe the body. foodstuffs by of foodstuffs factor factor inin the the utilisation utilisationof butinin together, but found together, These are usuallyfound Thesethree elements are threeelements another. nn,\n,,\rl'Ar1< proportions which from one one foodstuffto another. vary from whichvary neurotic givesrise risetotoneurotic dietgives thediet from the in BBfrom vitamin Absence of ofvitam attribute tendency totoattribute Thereisisaatendency beri-beri. There complaints complaints and andtotoberi-beri. diarrhoea, constipation, diarrhoea, likeconstipation, certain complaints,like certaindigestive digestive complaints, of deficiency of slightdeficiency etc., totoaaslight vomiting, appetite,etc., vomiting,loss lossof ofappetite, vitamin vitaminB.B. found acid.ItItisisfound ascorbicacid. Vitamin knownasasascorbic alsoknown Thisisisalso VitaminC.C.This

pears, 'beetroot, peas, app/es, apdes, pears,beetroot, dried peas, fresh and and dried kidneys, fresh kidneys, dried beans,dried haricot beans, bread, h.aricot potatoes, wholemeal wholemeal bread, artichokes, potatoes, artichokes, tornatoes' oranges, tomatoes, lemons,oranges, extract, lemons, whey, malt malt extract, milk, milk, milk,whey, milk, plums, prmpkin" plums, rnushroorns,pumpkin, walnuts, chestnuts, chestnuts, mushrooms, almo nds, walnuts, almonds,

meal lean meat. grapes,bananas, lettuce, Jean bananas, lettuce, grapes, cabbage, blackcunantg .cabbage, orangss,blackcurrants, Lemons, oranges, Vitamin C. C.Lemons, Vitamin rutabaga dandelions,rutabaga lettuces, dandelions, onions, lettuces, tomatoes, oysters, ()ilions, tomatoes, cauliflower, EraPes, peas, spinach, spinach,caulifiower, (s(swede wede turnip), freshpeas, rhubarb, turnip, beans,rhubarb, frenchbeans, carrots,french bananas,beetroot, beetroot,carrots, bananas, wheyplums, meat juices, milk, milk,whey. apples,plums, cr€arn. milft,cream. fals,milk, animalfats, fish.oils, oils,animal Cod VitaminD. D. C oliveroil. dfish oil. Wheateermoil. VitarninE.E.Wheatgerm Vitamin 969 969

VOISIN VOISIN See RESTAURANTS OF BycONE DAYS. VOISIN - -See RESTAURANTS OF BYGONE DAYS. VITELOTTE. rnNsy porAro - Type of potato which VITELOTTE. KIDN[!Y POTATO .- Type of potato which remains firm when cooked. remains firm when cooked. VIVEURS - Name given to various preparations characterVIVElJRS -. Name given 10 various preparations characterised by strong seasoning with cayenne br paprika, such as iscd by strong seasoning wÎth cayenne or paprika, such as potage or consommt des viveurs. potage or consommé des viveurs. VOL-AU-VENT -'This entrte,'said Car€me, .is pretty and VOL-AU-VENT - 'This entrée,' said Carême, 'is preHy and good without a doubt. It is eaten with pleasure for its extreme without a doubt. It is earen with pleasure for its eXlreme delicacy and lightness, but to cook it perfectly demands the and to cook il pcrfectly demands the utmost care. This is the but essential part of the operation, so that ulmost care. is the essential of the operation, 50 that the flakiness of the pastry is not lost in dampness.' the To_ryqke flakiness of the is not in dampness.' the pastry. Take a half quantity of Flaky pastry . To make the a half quantity of Flaky (see DOUGH) and divide it into 2 pieces. Roll out each piece (see and it into 2 pieces. Roll out to aDOUGH) thickness of about 5 mm. $ inch). to aCut thickness of about 5 mm. (t inch). the first piece in a circle 15 cm. (6 inches) in diameter Cutplace the first piece in a cirde 15 cm. (6 inches) in diameter and it on a baking sheet which has been brushed with and place il on a sheet which has been brushed with water. Cut the second piece into a circle of the same thickness water. Cut the second into a circle of the same thickness and remove a round from the middle so as to leave an interior and rem ove a round from the middle so as to leave an interior diameter of I I cm. (4f inches) and an exterior diameter of 16 diameter of Il cm. (4i- inches) and an exterior diameter of 16 cm. (6+ inches). Brush the first piece with water and place the cm. (61 inches). the first piece with water and place the pastry circle onBrush top. Press lightly to fix and leave for l0 pastry minutes.circle on top. Press lighlly to fix. and leave for 10 mÎnutes. Brush the top with beaten egg. Lightly cut a circle on the Brushpart, the top with beaten egg. Ughtly cut a .lid'. circlepink 011 the central which, after cooking, will form the central part, which, after cooking, will form aa 'Iid'. Pink the edges at regular intervals. Cook in a hot oven for 20 to 25 at regular intervals. Cook in a hot oven for 20 to 25 minutes, according

beaks,which whichwere weregilded, gilded,a alitlittle pieceof ofbuming burningtow. tow. beaks, tle piece Serviceenenvolière, volilre,applied appliedchiefty chieflytoto pheasantsand andwoodwoodService c^oc-k, w1s in vogue up to the end of the nineteenth century. cock, was in up to the end of nineteenth often, duringthe thesame period,game Quiteoften, gamewas sameperiod, wasserved served under Quite thetitle titleofofchasse chasse royale, royale, the thebirds birdsadorned adorned with withtheir their the plumagebeing beingselon set onaa greatsilver silverdîsh, dish,the thelargest largeston on plumage cro0tonsof offried friedbread bread and thesmallest smallestarranged arranged ininaaborder border croûtons round the thesides. sides. round Today,roasts roastsof game or ofgame orany anyother othermeat meatare puton are put onthe the Today, serving dish dish or oron on aacroûton cro0tonof fried bread of fried breadspread sfreadwith with serving forcemeatand garnished with and garnished withwatercress. watercress. forcemeat

VOLNAY highly esteemed esteemedBurgundy Burgundy wine wine which which cornes comes VOLNA y -- AA highJy from Volnay Volnay inin the the Côte C6te d'Or. d'Or. (See fUn-CUNDy.) from lSeeBURGUNDY.)

VOSNE

Red wine wine from from the the Côte C6te d'Or. (See d,Or. (See VOSNE - Red BURGUNDY.) BURGUNDY") VOUGEOT-One of the greatest Burgundies, Burgundies, from from Vougeot. Vougeot, VOlJGEOT -Oneoflhegrealesr community of the Côte of the C6te d'Or, d'Or, not not far far from from Beaune. Beaune. aa community VOUVRAY -- Reputed Reputed white white wine wine from from the the district district of of VOUVRAY Vouvray, near near Tours. Tours. This This wine, wine, which which îsis highly highly fiavoured flavoured and a little musky, musky, isis mildly mildly sparkling, sparkling, but but isis onen oftin trealed treated like like champagne to to make make itit more more so. so. champagne VOYAGE (German (German cookery) -- Sweet Sweet pastry which keeps for VOYAGE time, an an apricot apricot biscuit with with an anlndividual inn:ivi,rlml flavour due aa long time, to the substitulion substitution ofbreadcrumbs of breadcrumbs for for fiour. flour. to Ingredients.225 (8 OZ., oz., 1I cup) cup) fine sugar, sugar, 77 eggs, g. (9 (9 eggs,250 Ingredients. 225 g. (8 250 g. oz., 2i Zf,cups) vanilla sugar, g. sugar, 175 175 g. oz., cups) breadcrumbs, 22 teaspoons vanilla (6 oz., jam. o2.,1cup) apricot jam. (6 t cup) apricot Method. Cream the the sugar and egg yollcs yolks together together in a basin. Method. Crcam Beat the egg whites and fold fold them into and Beat the egg whites stifry and into the sugar and yolk mixture, will become very light, yolk mixture, which which will become very lîght, frotly frothy and whitish. in the whitish. Mix Mix in the breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and sugar. Fill a forcing-bag fitted nozzle about cm. (4 inch) wide with the fitted with with aa plain plain nozzle about 1I cm. mixture. buttered, floured baking sheels. sheets. mix.ture. Pipe Pipe circles circles on on to to buttered. Bake Bake them them in in aa low low oven oYen and and cool tool on aa cake rack. When When the the biscuits biscuits are are quite cold, cold, spread the the first first with apricot jam jam flavoured flavoured with kirsch. kirsch. Cover with with a a second biscuit and and spread spread this, Ihis, too, too, with wilh jam. jam. Superimpose 5 or 6 biscuits this way way and and sprinkle sprinkle the the top top one one withicing with icing sugar sugar biscuÎts in in this mixed mixed with with powdered powdered cinnamon. cinnamon. Wrap Wrap at at once once in in aluminium aluminium foil. foil. Keep Keep in in aa cool cool place. place.

-

to the size of

the l'ol-au-venL vol-au-vent. Afler After according to the size of the cooking detach the'lid'. cookîng derach the 'Iid'" Fill the vol-au-vent case with various kinds of mixtures Fiji the vol-au-vent case with various kinds mixrures bound with brown and white sauce. Among theof most usual usual bound brown and white sauce. Among the most for thiswitl! purpose are: Financiire, Mariniire,pur6e of chicken for Ihis are: Fif/a Il cière, Marinière. of chicken oj p_ur9e of shellfish, Toulouse, various salpicons, etc. (see or purée shellfish, Toulouse, various etc. (see GARNISHES, SALPICON). GARNISHES, SALP1CON).

VOLAILLE - See CHICKEN. VOLAILLE·- See CH1CKEN. VOLIERE (EN) - Style of serving game birds, much used VOLIÈRE (EN) -- Style of birds, much used formerly but now abandoned. This rather ostentatious formerly but now abandoned.

ralher ostentatious

presentation was done by placing on the cooked bird, each in presentation was done by placing on the cooked bird, each in proper position, its the head, the tail, and outspread ils proper position, the head. the tail, and outspread wings. wings" All these were fixed with little wooden pegs. AliPeacocks these were fixed with little wooden were served in this way in the Middle Ages Peacocks were served in Ihis way the Middle Ages adorned with their plumage, and holding between thiir

adorned wîth their plumage, and holding between their

970 970

Birds of of passage passage (sandpipers' (sandpipers, -- Birds of which which have have delicate delicate meat' meat. redlegs, gambets, gambets, etc.) etc.) some sorne of redlegs, They are prepared prepared like like woodcock woodcock (q.v') (g.v.) or or snipe snipe (q'v')' (g.v.). Thev-aie

WADERS. cI{EvALlERs CHEVALIERS WADERS.

WAFFLE. cAUFRE GAUFRE - The French wafre waffle is is aa very very light light type type of WAFFLE. - The French sweet pastry pastry cooked cooked between between the the two two buttered buttered and and heated sweet plates of of ua *um. waffie iron' iron. The The plates, plates, decorated decorated with embossed plates patterns, are are fixed fixed to to the the ends ends of of two two long long iron stems stems hinged patterns, together. are mentioned mentioned in in the the poems Waffles are of the end of the end poems of of the iVum.. century when when they they were were made made and twelfth century streets' sold in the streets. and sold twelfth On set up would set waffie-sellers would the waffie-sellers days the feast days great religious religious feast On great

together.

F.

waffies' their their stalls stalls at at the the doors doors of of the the churches churches and and bake bake their their waffles, were which The best best quality guality waffies waffles were which were were eaten piping piping hot. hot. The called métiers. called mitiers. 500 g' (18 Filled Filled waffies waffles I. 1. c.lurnes GAUFRES rouRrfns FOURRÉES -- Ingredients' Ingredients. 500 g. (18 butter' cup) generous (9.o2', g250 flour, sieved flour, 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) butter, oz., +cups) cups) sieved of j bicarbonate teaspoons l eggi, l-t teaspoons bicarbonate of ii.,'+cup) io g. 50 (2 oz., t cup) sugar, 33 eggs, e.'Q essence' vanilla essence. pod or teaspoon vanilla or -tI teaspoon sodi, ~I vanilla soda, vanilla pod butter' add butter, table, add the table, on the flour on of flour ciicle of Make aa circle Ueinod. Make Method. together everything Mix vanilla' and bicarbonate sugar, eggs, and vanilla. Mix everything together hard. too hard. dough too the dough working the without working thickness to aa thickness out to Roll itit out hours' Roll for 22 hours. stand for dough stand Let this dough with aa shapes with oval shapes or oval round or into round cut itit into and cut inc[1 and ;;. (t$ inch) of 1 cm.

4t

"fl

W

Si,-,

ffi''

Waffles (Nicolas) (Nitolas) Waffes

97197r

WAFFLE fluted pastry-cutter. Heat the waffie iron on both sides. Butter fluted pastry-cutter. Heat the waffle iron on both si des. Butter the iron and put a piece of dough between the plates. Close the iron and put a piece of dough between the plates. Close the iron and cook on high heat. Turn the iron onie during the the iron and cook on high heat. Turn the iron once during the cooking. cooking. Take out the waffies, and slice them across while they are Take out the waffles, and slice them across while they are still hot. Put them under underaaweight weightand andallow allow totocool, cool,and and still hot. Put them spread them with the cream for which a recipe is given below. spread them with the cream for which a recipe is given below. Sandwich the two halves together and keep them in a tin in a Sandwich the two halves together and keep them in a tin in a dry place until they are required. They will keep for 2 or 3 dry place until they are required. They will keep for 2 or 3 days. Put in the filling as required. days. Put in the fil1ing as required. Creamfilling for the thewaffles. waffies.250 generous cu oz.,generous cup) Cream filling for 250 g.g.(9(9oz., p) -butter, 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) icing sugarand 200 S.l7 butter, 250 g. (9 oz., generous cup) icing sugar and 200 g. (7 I oz., cup) praline (q.v.). oz., 1 cup) praline (q.v.). Warm basin and place the butter, sugar and p raline init. Warm aabasin and place the butter, sugar and praline in il. Work withaawhisk. whisk. When When the the mixture mixture isisblended blended to to asmooth a smooth Work with paste, use it as a filling for the waffies. paste, use it as a filling for the waffles. FiIIed waffies II. ceurnns nounn6rs - Ingredients.50O g. (lg FiUed waffles lI. GAUFRES FOURRÉES -Ingredients. 500 g. (18 oz., 4, cups) flour, 125 g. (4 oz., j cup) butter, 25 g. o2.,,2 oz., 41CUPS) flour, 125 g. (4 oz., 1cUP) butter, 25 g. {I{l oz., 2 tablespoons) fine sugar, | 5 g. (l oz., tcake) dry or compressed tablespoons) fine sugar, 15 g. (1 oz., 1cake) dry or compressed yeast, l| teaspoons salt, 4 eggs, about Z ai. (-pint, scant cup) yeast, 11 teaspoons salt, 4 eggs, about 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) milk. milk. Method. Mix together as for all other batters. Method. Mix together as for ail other batters. This waffie dough should be made the night before and left This waffle dough should be made the night before and left to rise in an earthenware dish covered with a cloth, in a cool to rise in an earthenware dish covered with a cIoth, in a cool place. Next morning shape the dough into little balls the size place. Next morning shape the dough into little balls the size of half an egg and put on a floured baking sheet. Allow to rise ofhalfan egg and put on a fioured baking sheet. Ailow to ri se to double their size and proceed with the cooking as in the to double their size and proceed with the cooking as in the previous recipe. previous recipe. Open the irons as soon as the waffies are cooked. put them Open the irons as soon as the waffles are cooked. Put them under weight and fill them with cream. under aa weight and fill them with cream. place 500 g. (lS oz.,4l Li6ge wafres. cAUFREs LIÉGEOISES u6crorsrs -- Place Liége wafHes. GAUFRES 500 g. (18 oz., 4t cups) fiour flour on on aa board. board. Add Add dry dry or yeast, about or compressed compressed yeast, about 1I cups) teaspoon, in in the the centre. centre. Mix Mix the yeast with the yeast with aa Ettle little warm warrn teaspoon, water, and and mix mix in in with with the the fiour. flour. Leave Leave to rise. to rise. water, Add aa pinch (4 oz., of salt, 125 g. (4 125 g. oz.,1"up) g. (7 (7 oz., sugar, 200 200 g. oz., Add pinch ofsalt, 1 cup) sugar, scant cup) cup) butter, butter, aa pinch ground cinnamon of ground cinnamon and and 44 e-ggs. eggs. scant pinch of Mix well. dough with with the the palm of the the hand. hand. Oivide Divide weIl. Work Work the the dough palm of ititMixinto size of of an an egg. egg. RoI! Roll into into the the shape shape of of into pieces pieces the the size sausages. Put them on a floured slab and let them stand for sausages. Put them on a fioured slab and let them stand for halfan half an hour. ho ur. Heat Put aa piece of dough dough Heat a a waffie waffle iron iron and and butter butter it. il. Put piece of between over moderate between the the plates. plates. Cook Cook on on both both sides sides over moderate heat. heat. Northern Northern waffies waffles or or Dutch Dutch wafers. wafers. cAUFRES GAUFRES DU DU NoRD, NORD, cAUFRETTES HoLLANDArsns - Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz., GAUFRETTES HOLLANDAISES .- Ingredients. 250 g. (9 oz.,

generouscup) cup)flour, flour,125 125g.g.(4(4oz., oz.,1 Icucup) sugar,175 175g.g.(6(6oz., generous p) sugar, i oz.,I cup)butter, butter,11egg eggwhite, white,a asmall pinchofsalt, smallpinch of salt,vanilla vanillaessence, essence, cup) groundcinnamon cinnamonororgrated gratedorange peel,according orangeororlemon lemonpeel, ground according taste. tototaste. Method.Arrange Arrange the theflour flourinina acircle. circle.Place Placethe thesugar, sugar,salt salt Method. andfiavouring flavouringininthe thecentre. centre.Dissolve Dissolve the thesugar sugarininthe theegg egg and white,add addthe butterand thebutter andmix mixal1allthe ingredients.Shape theingredients. Shapethe white, the doughinto intoaaba1I. ball.Cook Cookthe thewaffles waffiesininthe theusùal ustalway. way. dough Plainwaffles waffies (old (oldrecipe). recipe). GAUFRES cAUFRES ORDINAIRES oRDTNATREs Plain (l lb.,44cups) Ingredients.450 cups)fiour, flour,1Idl. dl.(6(6tablespoons, tablespoons,1I Ingredients. 450 g.g.(lIb., cup)fresh freshcream, cream, 450 450g.g.(1(llb., lb.,22cups) cups)sugar sugarand and44drops cup) dropsofof orange flower flowerwater. water. orange Method.Beat Beatthe flour with thefiour with halfthe half thecream. cream.When quite Whenititisisquite Method. smooth,add add the thesugar, sugar, the rest of therest of the thecream creamand andorange smooth, orange flower water, water,so sothat that the the mixture mixture isisasasthin thinasasmilk. milk.Heat fiower Heatand and grease the thewaffle-iron waffie-iron with with melted melted butter. Place one butter. Place oneand andaahalf half grease spoonfuls of of the the mixture mixture betwe~n plates totomake betweenthe the plates spoonfuls make each each waffie. AAlittle pressureisisexerted little pressure exerted to to make make the waffiesthinner. thewaffles waffle. thinner. To discover discover whether whetherthe waffie isisready, thewaffle ready, open To open up upthe theiron ironaa little. IfIf the the waffle waffie isisaagood good col colour, remove little. our, rem ove itit by bysliding knife sliding aaknife under and prising itit free. and prising free. Put Put the waffies,one under the waffles, one by byone, one, inin aa warm oyen oven to to keep keep them them crisp. crisp. warm Plain waffles waffes (modern (modern recipe). recipe). GAUFRES Plain cAUFRES ORDINAIRES oRDTNATREs - (9 oz., Ingredients.250 generous cup) oz., generous (9 oz., cup) butter, Ingredients. 250 g.g. (9 butter,250 250 g.g. (9 oz., generous cup) cup) lump lump sugar, sugar, 16 16egg yolks,200 (7oz., egg yolks, generous 200g.g. (7 oz., seant scant praline (q.v.), (q.v.), 1I dl. cup) praline (6 tablespoons, dl. (6 tablespoons, seant scant1i cup) cup) cup) water. water. Method. Put Put the the sugar sugar and and water water in in aa basin. Method. basin. Cook Cook to to ball ball degree, i.e. i.e. until until aa drop drop of of the the mixture mixture forms forms aa bail degree, en ball wh when plunged into into cold (see SUGAR). cold water water (see plunged SUGAR). While While the the sugar sugar isis cooking, skim skim itit until until the the surface surface isis cIear, clear, strain cooking, strain through through aa fine fine strainer. strainer. Put the egg yolks in egg yolks in aa basin basin and pour the Put and pour the sugar sugar on on to to them them in aa thin thin trick trickle. Mix with with aa beater, working le. Mix in working the the mixture mixture until until quite cold. is quite cold. Next Next add add the itit is the butter, butter, softened softened to to the the paste. Add consistency of of aa paste. praline, still the praline, Add the consisteney still whisking. whisking. Drop aa spoonful spoonful of of mixture mixture on Drop on the the heated heated and and buttered waffie iron. iron. Cook on on both sides. sides. waffies. GAUFRES cAUFREs À Vanilla waffles. A LA rA VANILLE-Ingredients. v,c.Ntnn- Ingredienrs. 500 g. 500 g. (18 oz., oz.,4rr cups) sieved sieved flour, flour, 250 g. (9 (9 oz., (18 41 cups) getrerorrs cup) 250 g. oz., generous cup; butter, 44 eggs, 44 tablespoons ($ cup) sugar, vanilla tablespoons (t vanilla pod or or tj teaspoon teaspoon vanilla essence, 1lI teaspoons bicarbonate of soda. soda. For the buller butter cream.250 g. (9 (9 oz., cream. 250 g. oz., generous cup) butter, g. (9 250 g. oz., 22 cu cups) yolks, 1I pod 250 (9 oz., ps) icing sugar, pod of sugar, 55 egg egg yolks, vanilla vanilla or 1t teaspoon teaspoon vanilla essence.

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Mardi Mardi Gras Gras waffies waftles (seventeenth (seventeenth centurv) cent ury)

Fifteenth Fifteenthcentury cent ury

wafleirons waftle irons

972 972

WALNUT

WALNUT

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(Nlcoia.s) Walnuts (Nicolas) WalnulS

tree, which grows in walnut tree, the walnut of the Fruit of NoIX - Fruit WALNUT. NOIXWALNUT. which grows in have been known from the oil walnut and Walnuts Europe. Europe. Walnuts and walnut oil have been known from the before Christ centuries it four knew Greeks The times. The Greeks knew it four centuries before earlieit times. earliest Christ century, the Romans fourth century, the fourth of the end of the end and towards towards the and the Romans Europe' over Europe. allover cultivationail itscultivation extended its extended are known as green walnutsare quite ripe ripe walnuts arequite Before they they are Before known as green is called the shuck' walnut of the casing fleshy The walnuts. walnuts. The fieshy casing of the walnut is called the shuck. shucks' walnut from (brou) isismade madefrom walnut shucks. liqueur (brou) Anexcellent excellent liqueur An pleasant to eat and very is walnut the is fiesh. it When When it is fresh, the walnut is very pleasant to eat and used a great deal in walnut'used driedwalnut, Thedried digestible. The easilydigestible. easily a great deal in digest, because difficultt totodigest, moredifficul confectionery.isismore andconfectionery, cookery cookery and because fatcontent. content. highfat ofits itshigh of Franare walnuts Frenchwalnuts are FranofFrench varieties of Thebest-known best-knownvarieties The Isdre and in cuhivated Parisienne, and quette, Mayette quette, Mayelle and Parisienne, cultivated in Isère and The Perigord'The cultivatedininPérigord. Marbotcultivated andMarbot Corneand Sunoy;Corne Savoy; first three varieties' thefirst anyofofthe 'Grenoble' walnu applytotoany canapply walnut 'Grenoble' t can three varieties. cereals to make crushedcereals withcrushed walnutswith mixwalnuts Vegetariansmix Vegetarians to make meat. for 'vegetarian substitute as a steaks' 'vegetarian steaks' as a substitute for meaL given the appearance of canbebegiven walnutscan driedwalnuts winter.dried lnInwinter, the appearance of then milk overnight,then hotmilkovernight, (unshelled)ininhot them(unshelled) freshby bysoaking soakingthem fresh produces a vapour steeping Thissteeping produces them.This drainingthem. anddraining dryingand drying a vapour theendocarp. endocarp. moistensthe whichmoistens shell,which theshell, insidethe inside large fairlylarge Choosefairly vINAIGRE- -Choose AUVINAIGRE NoIXAU walnuts.NOIX Pickledwalnuts. Pickled pierced with a pin' easilypierced canbebeeasily thatcan husksthat greenwalnuts withhusks walnutswith green with a pin. Marinate them for over.Marinate quitedeeply deeplyal!allover. prickthem themquite Wipeand andprick Wipe them for per litre (If; pints, saltper cup)salt o2.,1 125g.g.(4(4oz., brine- -125 3 3dadays ys ininbrine 1 cup) litre (li pints, boil' theboil. themupuptotothe bringthem thenbring quart)water water- -then generousquart) generous the nuts for 3 days restingthe times,resting threelimes, operationthree thiioperation i.epeatthis Repeat nuts for 3 days boiling. eachboiling. betwi:eneach between

place the sugar, the sugar, and place circle and in aa circle flour in the flour Method. Arrange the Method. Arrange and (or the essence) and pod (or the essence) vanilla pod of the the vanilla butter, inside of eggs, the the inside butter, eggs, in the middle. the middle. the te of soda in of soda bicarbonate the bicarbona and ball and into aa bail dough into the dough Roll the lumps. Roll Mixquickly avoid lumps. to avoid Mix quickly to let for 22 hours. hours. stand for let itit stand cut and eut inch) and mm.(t(+inch) of 55mm. thickness of Roll to aa thickness dough to Roll out out the the dough floured on aafloured Place on pastry cutter. cutter. Place fluted pastry into with aafiuted into oval oval shapes shapes with pastry the pastry Placethe lightly. Place iron lightly. waffleiron slab. the waffie and butter butter the Heat and slab. Beat cook. inin the andcook. close.and the middle, middle. close, on cookedon waffieisiscooked thewafHe that the ensure that Turn iron totoensure theiron Turn over over the sliceitit removeit,it,slice ready,remove both waffieisisready, thewaffie asthe Assoon soonas sides.As bothsides. shape. keepititininshape. across, weighttotokeep putititunder underaaweight and put across,and the Workitit totothe bowl. Work Buller butter ininaabowl. Put the thebutter Buttercream. cream.Put yolks' eggyolks. andthe theegg icingsugar, sugar'and paste, theicing consistency a pas te, add addthe ofa consistency of inside onthe theinside waffieon ofthe thewaffie Mix halvesof thehalves Spreadthe Mix thoroughly. thoroughly. Spread with cream. withthis thiscream. the usedininthe mouldused Specialmould W AFFLE IRON. cAUFRIER - - Special IRON. GAUFRJER WAFFLE whichfitfit plateswhich cast-ironplates preparation oftwo twocast-iron madeof preparationofwaffies, of wafles,mad.e designs' matchingdesigns. together withmatching embossedwith andare areembossed together and the cookedininthe bird'cooked AGT AIL. HOCHEQUEUE WWAGTAIL. European bird, HocHEQUEua- - European same lark. wayasasthe sameway thelark.

partifish,partipreparingfish, Methodofofpreparing WALEWSKA LA)- -Method WALEWSKA(À(ALA) poachedinin wayisispoached thisway cularly cookedininthis Fishcooked filletsofofsole. sole.Fish cularlyfillets withslices slices garnishedwith fishfumet dish,garnished (q.v.)set fireproofdish, ona afireproof fishfumet(g.v.) seton sauce wtthMornay Mornqtsauce ofofspiny coatedwith andcoated lobsterand andtruffies, truffies,and spinylobster (seeBUTTER, BUTTER' butter(see (see tobsterbuller (seeSAUCE) withSpiny Spinylobster SAUCE)with Compound butters). Compoundbul/ers). 973 973

WARBLER WARBLER Drain the jars. Coyer thewalnuts walnuts and placethem and place generously in jars. them in Cover generously Drain with boiling boiling spiced spiced vinegar prepared thus: vinegar prepared (4j thus: sim simmer with mer 551litres itres (4t quarts, 5| quarts) vinegar seasoned with 50 g. (2 oz.,1.up) quarts, 5t quarts) vinegar seasoned with 50 g. (2 OZ., t cup) peppercorns, 25 black peppercorns, g. (1(l OZ., 25 g. oz., I cup) cup) allspice, g. (l(l OZ., allspice, 25 25 g. oz., black cup) cloves" cloves,,25 oz., f cup) (lt oz., cup) mace, g. (li mace, 40 40 g. oz., ~* cup) cup) cup) 25 g.g.(l (1 OZ., crushed root ginger. Pour root ginger. Pour this this mixture, mixture, unstrained, unstrained, over over the the crushed walnuts. walnuts. Seal the thejars. Storein place. cool place. Seal jars. Store in aa cool Walnut cordial. cordial. BROC BRou DE DE NOIX. Norx. See See LIQUEUR, LIQUEUR, Walnut Walnut Walnut liqueur or or ratafia. ratafia. liqueur put in aa tu Walnut ketchup ketchup (English' (English'condiment) tub, with Walnut condiment) -- Pu t in b, wi th about tfkg. (2]lb. g+ 3] cups) cups) rock rock salt, salt, about about 22ke.(Slb., about I± kg. (2~ lb. 3t kg. (41 lb., 81 cups) green walnuts. Mix well and leave for 6 days, ciushing cups) green walnuts. Mix weil and leave for 6 days, crushing the shells from time to time with a pestle. Leave the tub tilted the shells from time to time with a pestle. Leave the tub tilted to one side after after each each operation juice which operation so so that that the the juice which runs runs to one side fromthe fruit can poured off can be be poured offevery day, until until only pulp only the the pulp from the fruit every day. remains. Boil this juice and skim it. Add 100 g. (4 oz.,l iup) remains. Boil thisjuice and skim it. Add 100 g. (4 OZ., 1 cup) ginger, 100 g. (4 oz., I cup) powdered spice, 50 g. (2 oz.,t.up) ginger, 100 g. (4 OZ., 1 cup) powdered spice, 50 g. (2 OZ., 1cup) cayenne pepper and an equal quantity of cloves. Simmer for cayenne pepper and an equal quantity of cloyes. Simmer for half an an hour. hour. Put Put into into small small bottles, bcittles, seal seal hermetically hermetically and and half keep in very dry place. Leave dry place. Leave for for several several months months before before keep in aa very usrng. using. Walnut oil. oil. HUILE uunE DE DE NOIX Norx -- Walnut Walnut oil pronounced oil has has aa pronounced Walnut nutty flavour. flavour. It goes weil It goes well with with certain (See OIL.) certain salads. salads. (See OIL.) nutty

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WARBLER. FAUVETTE -- This This bird protected but bird is is protected but its its flavour flavour W ARBLER. FAUVETTE is considered to be as delicate as that of garden warblers. It is is considered to be as delicate as that of garden warblers. It is prepared as for lark (q.v.). prepared as for lark (q.v.). WARTHOG. pH,c,cocHEnn-Type of wild boar boarindigenous to WARTHOG. PHACOCHÈRE - Type ofwild indigenous to Africa. Prepare Prepare as as for for wild (q.v.). wild boar boar (q.v.). Africa.

WASTE MATTER. MATTER. DÉCHETS o6crsrs -- Inedible Inedible parts of foods foods WASTE parts of (bone, skin, tendons tendons of of meat; meat; husks, husks, pods, skin of of fruit or (bone, skin, pods, skin fruit or vegetables). vegetables).

A A water wa 1er carrier ca rrier (lithograph ht Joseph (lilhograph hl" Joseph Felon, nineteent h century) Felon, nilleleenlh cenlury)

WATER. Water accounts for W ATER. nau EAU -- Water accounts for 65 65 per per cent cent of of an an adult's adult's

per cent of yeight, weight, 70 70 per cent of aa child's child's weight. weight. This This proportion proportion

indicates how important a part it playJ in the organiim. An indicates how important a part it plays in the organism. An adult per adult absorbs absorbs an an average average of of 25 25 grams grams,Solid' per pound; pound; aa child child (comparatively) much more. drinks drinks (comparatively) much more. 'Soli d' foods, foods, after after allowing allowing for for the the proportion proportion of of these these eliminated eliminated as as waste waste provide about I1 litre matter, matter, provide about litre (lf (l~ pints, pints, generous generous quart). quart). Beverages have therefore to make up the difference. Beverages have therefore to make up the difference.

porABLn Drinking Drinkingwater. water. EAU EAU POTABLE-- Water Watersuitable suitablefor for drinking drinking

must must be be clear, clear, colourless, colourless, aerated, aerated, odourless odourless even ev en when wh en

boiled, pleasant-tasting, neutral neutral in in reaction, reaction, and and fresh. fresh. From From boiled, pleasant-tasting, the the point point of ofview view of ofchemical chemical analysis, analysis, itit must must dissolve dissolve soap, soap, 974 974

reveal no no traces (sometimes presen traces of of lead lead (sometimes presentt when when wa water flows reveal ter flows through lead pipes), leave lead pipes), no more leave no per more than than O'0.50 residue per dry residue through 50 dry litre after after evaporation, evaporation, contain contain less per less than than 66 66 mg. mg. chloride chloride per litre litre, less less than than 50 50 mg. mg. sulphates, sulphates, less less than than 33 mg. mg. organic organic litre, matter, less less than than 1I mg. mg. ammonia, ammonia, less less than than 10 l0 mg. mg. nitrates, nitrates, matter, contain no no trace trace of of albuminoids albuminoids or nitrites, and or nitrites, and contain contain at at contain least 8-12 8-12 mg. mg. dissolved dissolved oxygen per litre. oxygen per litre. Ail All this this explains the explains the least remark of Dr. Besançon: of Dr. Besanqon: 'Pure 'Pure water water isis aa myth.' myth.' remark After the the above, above, water water must must be be examined examined under under aa micromicroAfter scope in in order order to to detect (later) helminth detect algae, infusoria, and algae, infusoria, and (later) helminth scope (intestinal worms), eggs (intestinal worms), and and itit should should be be examined examined bacteribacterieggs ologically to to discover discover the number and the number and nature nature of microbes of microbes ologically present. This This final final examination examination isis extremely extremely important, important, present. especially where where the the town town water water supply supply isis concerned, concerned, and and especially should be be carried carried out out at at regular regular intervals. intervals. should Insufficiently aerated aerated water water isis heavy; heavy; water water ririch in calcalch in Insufficiently careous salts salts is is bard; hard; consequently consequently itit does does not not dissolve dissolve soap soap careous and is is bad bad for for cooking cooking vegetables. vegetables. If If water water contains contains salts salts of of and any kind kind itit has has an an alkaline, alkaline, earthy, earthy, bitter bitter or or briny briny tas taste, any te, depending upon upon the nature nature of of the salt. salt. depending One must must stress stress the the importance importance of of using using bacteria-free bacteria-free One drinking water, water, for for many contagious contagious diseases diseases are transmitted drinking through water. water. Chemical purity isis no Chemical purity no less less important; to give through an example, example, medical medical statistics statistics show show that the number of cases an of stones stones in in the the bladder bladder have have considerably considerably diminished diminished in in of Glasgow by by supplying purer type supplying Ila purer type of of drinking water than Glasgow previous use. that in in previous use. Water Water deficient in in minerais minerals is is another that cause of of health health disorders; disorders; for for example, example, the high incidence incidence of of cause goitre in in certain certain regions regions is attributed to the absence absence of of iodine goitre in the mountain springs. springs. Natural Natural spring or river water is in the mountain is a living food food and not of inert minerais. minerals. not simply the liquid vehicle ofinert living It is live for for twenty, thirty or forty It is possible possible to to live fort Y days without eating if ample water is available. available. eating if ample water is Water only man can can claim Water is is the the only only natural natural beverage, and only to other liquid. to appease appease his his thirst thirst with with any any other liquid. Dieticians Dieticians lay down no and fast down no hard hard and fast rules, rules, but but recommend that only a moderate moderate amount amount should be drunk with meals, so as not to over-dilute the over-dilute the digestive digestive juices, juices, and and to to avoid avoid dilating dilating the stomach. stomach. But But there there is no harm in drinking drinking one or two two glasses of of water water between between meals. meals. Constant Constant thirst thirst indicates indicates the organism's organism's need need to to dilute dilute substances ingested ingested to tü excess, excess, particularly particularly salt, salt, spices, spices, sugar. sugar. More More frequently, frequently, it it is is an indication indication of of the the body's body's need need to rid rid itself itself of of toxins present present in in the the organs organs and and body body fluids. Distilled Disti//ed water water is is heavy heavy and and flat, fiat, but but is is acceptable as as drinking drinking water water provided provided itit is is aerated aerated by by beating. beating. It It is is used used on ships. ships. Rainwater Rainwater has has been been soiled soiled by by all ail the the impurities impurities of of the the roof, roof, when when itit is is collected collected there, there, and and must must not not be be consumed consumed unless unless the the first first flow, flow, which which washes washes the the gutters gutters and and roofs, roofs, is is diverted diverted before before collecting collecting the the remainder remainder in in the the cisterns. cisterns. Spring Spring water water isis considered considered to to be be the.best theJbest but but much much depends depends on on the the soil. soil. Water Water of of granitic granitic soif soif is is seriously seriously lacking lacking in in mineral minerai salts. salts. The The water water of of Siluria, Siluria, Devonia, Devonia, Triassic Triassic and and Jurassic Jurassic soils soils isis the the best, best, provided provided itit has has not not been been subjected subjected to to contamination contamination through through fissures fissures in in the the ground, ground, frequently frequently found found in in deforested deforested areas. areas. River River water water varies varies in in purity purity according according to to the the part part of of the the river river from from which which itit is is drawn. drawn. It It is is always a]ways polluted polluted passing after after passing through through built-up built-up areas. areas. Aeration Aeration and and insolainsolation tion have have aa purifying purifying effect effect and and the the water water becomes becomes naturally naturally pure pure again again 50 50 to to 80 80 kilometres kilometres (30 (30 to to 50 50 miles) miles) downdownstream. stream. Canal Canal waterhas water has the the same same disadvantages disadvantages as as river river water, water, but' but purifies purifiesitselfless itself less easily easilybecause because ofits of itslack lack ofcurrent. of current. Mountain Mountain water water is is the the product product of of melting melting snows snows and and glaciers. glaciers. ItItisis heavy heavybecause becauseoflack oflack ofaeration, of aeration, but butpure pureatatits its source, with minerals. source, and and rapidly rapidlyenriches enrichesitself itselfwith minerais.

WATERCRESS WATERCRESS per also also the the freshest freshest and and is, is, with with mineralisation mineralisation at at 0'40 0·40 per litre, litre,

Ditch Di/ch and anddrainage drainage canal canalwater water isis usually usually impure. impure. The The water water of of the the great great lakes lakes isis usually usually pure pure ifif drawn drawn fai fat from from the the shore shore or or from from aa certain certain depth. depth. The The organic organic matter matter and and minerals minerais of of the the streams streams and and rivers ri vers that that feed feed the the lakes lakes form deposit before before reaching reaching their their destination. destina tion. form aa deposit The The waters waters of of marshes marshes and and ponds, ponds, are are almost almost always always impure, impure, as as the the absence absence of of current current gives gives rise rise rapidly rapidly to to microbic microbic pollution. pollution. Well Weil water water varies varies considerably considerably according according to to the the ininstallation, stallation, depth depth and and positioning positioning of of the the well. weil. It It is is often often polluted from the the surrounding surrounding area. area. poilu ted by by infiltrations infiltrations from The The composition composition of of the the water water of of artesian artesian wel/s, wells, which which are are water used' artificial artificial springs, springs, depends depends upon upon the the sheet sheet of ofwater used. There There are are various various methods methods of of purifying purifying suspect suspect water water and and making making itit drinkable. drinkable. For For town town supplies supplies filter fil ter beds beds are are used, used, as as weil as as other other physical physical or or chemical chemical purification purification processes processes too too well involved involved to to describe describe here. here. From From aa bacteriological bacteriological point point of of view view such such water water is is qualified qualified as as drinkable drinkable but but itit is is more more or or less less unpleasant to to the the taste, tas te, and and often often devitalized, sometimes unpleasant devitalized, contains an excess of of calcareous calcareous salts, often responsible for for contains can visceral disorders and and rheumatism. rheumatism. This This calcareous calcareous excess excess can visceral disorders of equipment equipment called 'water 'water softeners' softeners' be corrected by means of distilled water, which convert convert the water to something akin to distilled water, which for not of a a high standard. Some Sorne of of the the processes pro cesses for though not of purifying the oxidising oxidising process process of purifying suspect water, water, based on the already been or iodine potassium potassium permanganate pennanganate or iodine have have already been (for 11 litre mentioned. Here are are a few formulae (for litre water): Dissolve I1 packet packet of of:: cg. perman ganate Powdered potassium permanganate 33 cg. Powdered cg. Common alum 55 cg. packet of: of : Decolourise after 10 minutes with aa second packet cg. of soda Powdered hyposulphate of Powdered 33 cg. cg. Carbonate of lime 55 cg. or pour in in 5 drops of the solution: g. 5 g. Iodine Iodine g. 22 g. Sodium iodide Sodium iodide 100 cl. cl. 100 Akohol Alcohol at at 60° 60" per cent cent quantity of l0 per of aa 10 same and then decolourise, me quantity decolourise, using the sa hyposulphate of solution. soda solution. of soda pour 55 to to 66 water, pour before using the water, Simpler Simpler still, still, 30 30 minutes before of aa The addition addition of carafe. The into aa carafe. drops iodine into drops of of tincture tincture of of iodine will be be enough enough tannin will containing tannin little liquid containing wine or any liquid little red red wine or any its taste. taste. mask its to and to to mask iodine and to neutralize neutralize the the iodine of aa by the the addition addition of be sterilised sterilised by water may may also also be Suspect Suspect water per litre. Passing litre. Passing (sodium hypochlorite) hypochlorite) per few few drops of bleach bleach (sodium drops of the removes the charcoal removes of activated activated charcoal the filter of the water water through through aa filter after used after be used can be water can The water bleach. The taste of the the bleach. taste and and smell smell of infusions. or other other infusions. of tea tea or lengthy form of lengthy boiling boiling in in the the form Temperature water -Temperature of of water (46.5'F.) 8'C. (46·5°F.) Water goc. very cold cold below below Water isis very (46'5 to 53'5"F.) to 53· to 12°C. l2'C. (46'5 Cold 88 to 5°F.) from Cold from (61"F.) 16"C. (61°F.) Cool 16°C. up to to Cool up (61' to 97'F.) l6 to 35'C. (61°t097°F.) Tepidfrom 16t035°C. Tepid from (97" to I10"F.) 40'C. (9r to llOoF.) to 40°C. 35 to Hot 35 Hot from from Piping Piping hot temperature. hot above above this this temperature. mineral to 38 38g.g. minerai 33 to Sea MER- - Contains Contains 33 DEMER wrter. EAU EAU DE Sea water. of four-flfths of (depending on latitude), four-fifths per litre substances on the the latitude), substances per litre (depending but drinkable but not drinkable which chloride. ItIt isis not which consist consist of of sodium sodium chloride. canserve serve contains plankton which, conditions, can under certain certainconditions, contains plankton which, under new progress to toextract extract new as areinin progress as human human food. food. Experiments Experiments are Frozensea sea (algae,etc.) sea.Frozen nutritional from the thesea. nutritional elements etc.)from elements(algae, grounds. fishing grounds. t the wa ter isisused fish aat thefishing water used to conserve fish toconserve shrimps, shellfish: shrimps, certain shellfish: Sea cookcertain water isisalso used to tocook Sea water also used for forexample. example. See NATURET,I-ns- -See MINERALEs NATURELLES Natural EAUXMINERALES Natural mineraI mineralwaters. waters. EAUX MINERAL WATERS. MINERAL WATERS. are known are bestknown Among the thebest Table TABLE- -Among DETABLE Table waters. EAUXDE waters. EAUX whichisis waterwhich Evianwater (natural, not andEvian Volvic notaerated) aerated)and Volvicwater water(natural,

Conone one of of the the best. best. It It can can be be alternated alternated with with the the light light Contrex6ville trexéville or or Vittel Vittel Grande Grande Source, Source, less less frequently frequently with with an an

be alkaline alkaline water waterlike like Badoit Badoit or orVichy Vichy C6lestins, Célestins, which which should should be drunk drunk in in inoderation. inoderation. Alternating Alternating table table waters waters like like this this ensures that the the organism organism absorbs absorbs a a little little of of each each of of the the ensures that It is said hydrous hydrous salts, salts, and and guards guards against against any any deficiency. deficiency. It is said water mineral at the active that that such such waters waters are are especially especially active at the minerai water is their quality spring spring from from which which they they come, come, but but that that some sorne of oftheir quality is exclusively almost however, It is, bottled. lost are once they lost once the y are bottled. It is, however, almost exclusively bottled water that that dieticians dieticians use. use. A A number number still still bottled mineral minerai water be contain contain valuable valuable properties properties long long after after bottling, bottling, but but have have to to be at drunk drunk in in larger larger quantities quantities than than mineral minerai waters waters taken taken at the the spring spring itself. itself. The The expression expression thermal thermal waters waters refers refers exclusively exciusively to to hot mineral minerai springs, springs, although although it it is is sometimes sometimes used used to to hot cold. and hot describe describe all ail mineral mineraI waters, waters, hot and cold. Whisk together 4 Albuminous EAU ALBUMINEUsE ALBUMINEUSE - Whisk together 4 Albuminous water. water. EAU orange water; of ordinary I litre whites egg and of add l0 JO g. g. orange whites of egg and 1 litre of ordinary water; add antidote to flower flower water. water. This This water water is is used used as as an an antidote to poison poison and and is is especially especially effective effective ifif taken taken after after eating eating poisonous poisonous fungi. fungi. See MELISSA. tsse -- See Melissa EAU DE DE u6t MÉLISSE MELISSA. Melissa water. water. EAU ou SYDRoLATS Aromatic Aromatic medicated medicated water. water. EAUx EAUX DISrU-IfEs DISTILlÉES OU HYDROLATSover distillation over constituents by Water charged with Water charged with volatile volatile constituents by distillation almonds, pineapple, bitter almonds, of bitter aromatic plints; aromatic plants; distilled distilled water water of pineapple, valerian, roses, melissa. lettuce, roses, flowers, lettuce, cinnamon, orange orange flowers, cinnamon, melissa. valerian, perfumery. and perfumery. in pharmacy etc. Used pharmacy and etc. Used mainly mainly in

HerD'EAU -- Herou CHÂTAlGNE cnAretcNn D'EAU uncRs OU WATER CHESTNUT. MACRE WATER CHESTNlIT. are Water chestnuts chestnuts are fruit. Water plant with with edible edible fruit. water plant baceous water baceous resemblance pulp bears some resemblance bears sorne Their pulp roasted. Their boiled or or roasted. eaten boiled eaten flavour. has less less flavour. chestnuts but but has to ordinary ordinary chestnuts to

1. Spring walercress 2. Garden cress

Watercress isis CRESS. Watercress also CRESS See also WATERCRESS. CRESSON cnessorq -- See WATERCRESS. or inin salads. salads. meats, or grilled and roast meats, and roast garnish grilled raw to used raw to garnish used provides excellent dishes. excellent dishes. Cooked, itit provides Cooked, AU BEURREBEURRE 6ruvf AU cREssoN ÉTUVÉ butter. CRESSON with butter. Watercress cooked cooked with Watercress simmer and simmer dry, and drain, dry, water, drain, rapidly ininsalt salt water, Blanch the cress rapidly the cress Blanch wayas asspinach. spinach. in butter butter inin the same the sa in me way re CRÉME" crius 6ruvf ÀALA cRessoN ÉTUVÉ with cream. cream. CRESSON Watercress cooked cooked with Watercress fresh few tablespoons tablespoons fresh Addaafew way as asahove. above. Add Cook inin the the same same way Cook boiling cream. cream. boiling Thesame same lu JUS rus- -The fruvf AU au jus.CRESSON cRESSoNÉTUVÉ Watercress cooked cookedaujus. Watercress juice from from the the some juice ofsorne addition of with the the addition as above. Finish with above. Finish as roast. roast. wash Trim,wash cREssoN- - Trim, DECRESSON garnish.GARNITURE cARNITURE DE Watercress garnish. Watercress grilledor or beside grilled bunches beside Arrangeitit ininbunches cress.Arrange and drain drain the thecresso and roast meal. meat. roast pun6r DE watercress Simmerwatercress DECRESSON cREssoN- -Simmer pur6e.PURÉE Watercress purée. Watercress pur6e' of potato purée. volumeofpotato itsvolume Add aathird thirdofofits butter and andsieve. sieve.Add ininbutter the cream,according according totothe boiledcream, butter ororboiled Finish with withfresh freshbutter Finish recipe. recipe. drain wash,drain Trim, wash, DECRESSON cRESSoN- -Trim, selenE DE Watercress salad. salad.SALADE Watercress withoil, oil, waywith usual way theusual watercress. Seasonininthe drythe thewa anddry and tercress. Season pepper. andpepper. vinegarororlemonjuice, saltand lemon juice,salt vinegar 97s 975

WATERFISCH WATERFISCH This salad must only be dressed at the last moment. This salad must only be dressed at the last moment.

Watercress sandwiches. sANDwrcr{Es AU cRESsoN - Cover Watercress sandwiches. SANDWICHES AU CRESSON - Coyer buttered slices of bread with watercress which has been dried, buttered slices ofbread \Vith watercress which has been dried, or with a chffinnade of watercress. or with a chiffonnade of watercress. Sandwiches can also be made with watercress which has Sandwiches can also be made with watercress which has been finely chopped and mixed with a rather thick mayonbeen finely chopped and mixed with a rather thick mayonnalse. naIse. Cream of watercress soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. Cream of watercress soup - See SOUPS AND BROTHS. WATERFISCH - Dutch word used in France for ,freshwater WATERFISCH - Dutch word used in France for 'freshwater fish'. The name waterfisch or patervlscft is used in cookery for fish'. The na me waterfisch or patervisch is used in cookery for a kind of sauce served served with with freshwater freshwater fish, particularly fish, particularly a kind of sauce perch. Waterfisch sauce (cold). sAUCE wATnnnscs- prepared with Wa terfisch sauce (cold). SAUCE W A TERFISCH - Prepared with the court-bouillon (q.v.) of the fish being used. Add gelatine, the court-bouillon (g.v.) of the fish being used. Add gelatine, strained and mixed with a julienne of vegetables (see below) strained and mixed with a julienne of vegetables (see below) cooked in court-bouillon (or fish fumet (q.v.)). Add sweet cooked in aa court-bouillon (or fishfumet (g.v.)). Add sweet pimentos, gherkins and capers. pimentos, gherkins and capers. This sauce (jelly) used to coat the fish after it has been This sauce (jelly) isis used to coat the fish after it has been cooked in court-bouillon, cooled in the same liquid, skinned cooked in court-bouillon, cooled in the same liguid, skinned

perch.

parsnip water parsnip Waler

and red red coloured coloured flesh. flesh. They They can pleasantly musky can be be pleasantly musky or or and rather insipid. insipid. Water Water melons, melons, unlike unlike ordinary ordinary melons, melons, have have rather no central central cavity. jam. cavity. They They are are eaten eaten raw raw or or made made into into jam. no

and wiped dry. It is then decorated with anchovy fillets cut and wiped dry. It is then decorated with anchovy fil lets eut into thin strips. Serve with Rdmoulade sauce (seeSAUCE). into thin strips. Serve with Rémoulade sauce (see SA UCE). Waterfisch sauce (hot). sAUcE wArERFrscH - Cook 50 g. (z Waterfisch sauce (hot). SAUCE WATERFISCH - Cook 50 g. (2 oz., cup) carrots, 25 g. (l oz., f cup) white part of leeks, i5 g. oz., tI cu p) carrots, 25 g. ( 1 oz.,} cup) whi te part of leeks, 25 g. (l oz., i cup) celery and 25 g. (l oz., f cupl parsley roots, a1l (1 oz., t cup) celery and 25 g. (1 oz., cup) parsley roots, all cut in a frne julienne gently in butter till soft. Add 2 dl. $ pint, eut in a fine julienne gently in butter tiU soft. Add 2 dl. (t pint, scant cup) court-bouillon (q.v.) or fishfumer (q.v.). Boil down seant cup) court-bouillon (g.v.) or fishfumet (g.v.). Boil down the liquid, and add 4 dl. (f, pint, scant2 atps) White wine sauce the liquid, and add 4 dl. (~pint, seant 2 cups) White wine sauce (see SAUCE). (see SAUCE).

WATER PARSNIP. PARSNIP. BERLE BERLE -Aquatic plant, the leaves of the leaves of WATER -Aquatic plant, which have have sorne some similarity similarity to to those those of of celery. celery. It It isis also also called called which Water parsley, parsley, Creeping Creeping watercress and Water smallage. and Water smallage. Water The lea leaves parsnippare of the water water parsni are eaten salads. Only eaten in salads. Only the the The ves of leaves should should be be eaten, eaten, as poisonous. as its its roots roots are are poisonous. leaves

±

WATERZOOTJE Flemish Flemish cookery. cookery. WATERZOI wArERzor -- A fish A fish WATERZOOTJE dish having having sorne some anal analogy with the the cotriade cotiade of of the the Breton dish ogy with fishermen, but but which which is is solid solid rather than aa soup. fishermen, In Holland Holland and and Belgium Belgium this preparation preparation is equivalent to In bouillabaisse but but without without tomato, garlic and tomato, garlic and saffron. saffron. It It is bouillabaisse

WATERMELON.

r.r,sriqur -- Fruit Fruit of of aa cucurbitaceae cucurbitaceae WATERMELON. PASTÈQUE family plant. There are many varieties, with white, yellow, family plant. There are many varieties, with white, yello w ,

Chicken Chickenwaterzootje walerzootjeororwaterzoi waterzoi (Robert (RobertCarrier) Carrier)

976 976

WHALE WHALE cooked not with oil, like the Provençalesoup, but with butter. cooked not with oil, like the Provenqale soup, but with butter' Linea abuttered butteredsaut6 sautépan panwith with200 200g.g.(7(7oz.lt OZ., l~cups) cups)ofof Line thewhite whitepart partofofcelery, celery,itropped. choppcd.Put Puton ontop top2 2tg. Kg (4+ (4-!:tP') lb.) the freshwaterfish fish(eel, (eel,carp, carp,pike, pike,tench, tench,etc') etc.)cut eutininchunks' chunks. freshwatei Season with salt and pepper, add a bouquet garni of parsley, Season with salt and pepper' addabouquet garni ofparsley' jleaves thyme, bay leaf and 2 or 3 leavesofofsage. sage.Cover Coverwith \Vithwater wa ter(or (or thyme, bay leaf and 2 br tishfumet (q.v.)).Dot Dotthe thetop topwith with100 100g-g.(4(4oz', OZ.,* -tcup) cup)butter butter ninfumei(q.v.)). eut into small pieees. cut into small pieces. Begin cooking on high heat. Cover the pan and continue Begin cooking on high heat. Cover the pan and continue cooking very slowly, so that the liquid is boiled down while cooki-ng very slowly, so that the liquid is boiled down while the fish cooks. the fish cooks. Add stock stock to 10 give give the the desired desired consistency consistency and and aa little little Add biscotte (melba (melba toast) toast) reduced reduced to to powder' powder. Remove Remove the th~ biscotte bouquet garni. Serve with slices of buttered bread. bouque t garni. Setve with slices of buttered bread' Chicken wllierwotje. wATERZoI DE voLAILLT VOLAILLE - Although waterzootje. WATERZOI DE - Although Chicken waterzoolje is the name for a fish dish, it is sometimes waterzootie is the nlme for a fish dish, it is sometimes prepared with with jointed jointed chicken chicken cooked cooked in in aa white white stock stock prepared f1avoured with with onions, on ions, leeks, leeks, bouquet bouquet garni, garni, celery, celery, thyme, thyme, itavoured bayleaf leafand and cloves. cloves. Bring Bringto to the the boil, boil, then then add add aa little littlewhite white bay wine. Season Season with with salt salt and and pepper' pepper, and and simmer simmer very very slowly sJowly wine. hours. Cut Cut into into piecei, pieces, remove remove the the bouquet bouquet garni garni and and for lf hours. for serve in the the stock, stock, garnished garnished with with chopped choppedparsley' parsley. serveln

11

WAXWING. JASEUR JASEUR - European bird of ofthe the sparrow sparrow family' family. bird WAXWING. - European edible and and isis cooked cooked in in the the same same way way as as lark' lark. ItIt isis edible WEEVER. vIvE VIVE - Type Type of of European European fish fish found found on on the the sandy sandy WEEVER. - weever, coasts. The The greater grcater weever, whose firm flrm white white flesh f1esh is is highly highly whose coasts. yellowish in esteemed, has an elongated body, pinkish esteemed, has an elongated body, pinkish or yellowish in colour with with dark dark bands. bands. ItIt has has stiffspines stiff spines along along the the dorsal dorsal fin, fin, colour whose pricks pricks are are poisonous, poisonous, even even after aCter the the fish fish isis dead' dead. All Ail the the whose methods of of cooking cooking whiting whiting (q.v.) (q.v.) are are applicable applicable to to the the methods weever. weever. en matelote matelote vierge vierge (CarGme's (Carême's recipe)' recipe). vIVE VIVE Ef EN Weever en Weever MATELOTTE- 'Take 6 weevers, clean them and eut each into 3 3 MATELOTTE -'Take 6 weevers-, clean them and cut chunks, not using using the the head. head. Put Put into into aa buttered buttered saucepan with chunks, not aabouquet bouquet garni, 2 cloves, cloves' salt gadic, 2 2 cloves cloves garlic, onions' 2 garni, chopped ihopped onions, and grated nutmeg. Pour in a bottle of white Burgundy. Start and giateJnutmeg. Pbur in a bottle of white Burgundy' cooking over ra te the heat so so moderate and mode skim and then skim heat, then strong heat, ou.r strong that "oofing fish simmers. simmers. the fish that the 'As put itit and put drain and touch, drain the touch, to the firm to becomes firm 'As soon as itit becomes soon as into roux white roux liquor' Make aa white the liquor. Strain the saucepan. Strain into another another saucepan. (2i lb.) to lb') kg' (2± of 1I kg. trimmings of the trimmings add the and add liquid and the liquid thicken the to thicken peeled mushrooms. peeled and and cooked cooked mushrooms. 'Remove yolks' egg yolks, with 33 egg thicken with down, thicken grease, boil boil down, all grease, 'Remove ail strain bain-marie' in aa bain·marie. hot in keep itit hot and keep cloth and through aa cloth strain through 'Arrange in them in keeping them pyramid, keeping in aa pyramid, pieces ofweever of weever in 'Arrange the ihe pieces place butter. fried inin butter. bread fried of bread crofitons of place with with heart-shaped heait-shaped croûtons Pour been have been mushrooms have which the the mushrooms to which sauce, to oue, the the sauce, Pour over added, together with a piece of the finesl butter as big as an added, together with a piece of the finest butter as big as an egg.'

Setier.8 Setier. 8Paris Parispints, pints,i.e.i.e.7'45 7·45litres. litres. a aFrench Chopine. half Frenchpint. pint. Chopine.Used Usedtotobebehalf capacity the Some Someofof theold oldmeasures measuresofof ca pacityhave haveremained remainedininuse, use, particularly particularlyforforChampagne Champagnewines, wines,thethevalue valuediffering differingslightly sligh tly in irom l'romthe theold oldvalues, values,the themetric metricequivalents eq uivalentsbeing beingexpressed expressed in capacity same the have times at may A bottle figures. round round figures. A bottle may at times have the same capacity asasthe theo-ld oldpint, pint,i.e. i.e.0'93 0·93litre' litre,but butthe thepresent-day present-daybottle bottle generally generallyequals equals0'80 0·80litre. litre. Muid Muid: = 260litres. 260 litres. Trentain Trentain : = 300litres. 300 litres. Poincon Poincon : = 200litres. 200 litres. Caque Caque : = l00litres. 100 litres. QueuededeReims Reims : = 396litres. 396 litres. Queue Queuede deChamPagne Champagne : = 366litres' 366 li tres. Queue Sapinee Sapinée := 30 30Pints pints(28litres). (28 litres). : : Velte Velte = I 1setier setier = 7'45litres. 7·45 litres. Quartaut := 50litres. 50 litres. Quartaut Feuillette 1 J 4 litres. Feuillelle := l14litres. Piice Pièce := 200 200litres. litres. it was Old foot equalled Oldlinear lincarmeasures measures-- The Thefool equalled 0'3248 0·3248 m', 111., it was lines 0.017 m. divided divided into into l2 12inches inchesof 01'0·017 m. The Theinch inch equalled equalled l2 12lines of 0'225 cm. ofO·225cm. WELL. WELL. PUIrs PUITS -- Word Word used used for for the the space space left left empty empty in in the the middle middle of ofaa circle circle of offlour, flour. in in which which are are placed placed the the ingredients ingredients part necessary necessary to ta make make pastry pastry or or other other mixtures; mixtures; the the central central part of of food food arranged arranged in in the-form the fonn of of aa crown, crown, 'turban' 'turban' or or circle' circle, where where various various garnishes garnishes are are placed; placed; the the hollow hollow made made in in the the in chimney or sleeve middle middle of of aa cake cake or or pudding; pudding; the the metal metal sleeve or chimney in the middle of of certain certain moulds moulds and and cake ca ke tins' tins. the middle WELS. WELS. sILURE SILURE - Large Large freshwater freshwater fish fish with with smooth smooth soft soft skin skin

-

and barbelled barbelled mouth. mou th. in an wels, The The Europe European wels, which which is is not not found found in in France France except except in up the glanis, Efows the River Doubs, and which which is is also also called called theglanis, grows up (551b')' 25kg' to over 2Zm.(Gfeet) m. (6i--wels, feet) in in length length and and weighs weighs 2S kg. (55 lb.), originating in catfish, originating or freshwater The dwari The dwarf wels. or freshwater catfish, in stock to stock used to and used imported and been imported has been whence itit has America whence America in (16 inches) 24 to 24 inches) in cm' (16 to 60 cm. 40 to to 60 grows to to 40 rivers, grows French nvers, French fins dorsal fins and dorsal pectoral and The pectoral delicate. The very delicate. fleshls length. Its f1esh is very length. dangerous' not dangerous. but not disagreeable but prick is is disagreeable whose prick spikes, whose have spikes, (q'v')' burbot (q.v.). freshwater burbot the freshwater like the prepaied like is prepared nsn is fnis fish This cheese toasted cheese English toasted RAREBIT .~.- English or RAREBIT RABBIT or WELSH RABBIT WELSH follows: as preparation, made preparation, made as follows: ^ (225 g',2 oz' (225 beer, 88 oz. English beer, little English with aa Iittle into aa saucepan saucepan with Put into Put g., 2 cups)Gloucestercheesecutinsmallpieces.Addalittle cups) Gloucester cheese eut in small pieces. Add a little until time the all the time until stirring aIl mixture stirring this mixture cook this mustard. Cook nngiist, mustard. English and toasted and of toasled slices of over slices Pour over melted. Pour has melted. cheese has thJ cheese the grill' the grill. under the well under Brown weil bread. Brown buttered bread. buttered

under meat, under whale meat, Ages whale Middle Ages In the the Middle BALEINB - - ln WHALE. BALEINE WHALE. meatless onmeatless wassold soldon bacon, was Lenten bacon, or Lenten crapois or of erapois name of thename the of this this fleshof poor' The The f1esh the poor. of the dietof staplediet thestaple formed the andformed daysand days 24 after24 evenafter tougheven remains tough andremains indigesfible most indigesti cetacean isismost ble and ".iu".on cooking. hourscooking. hours name' differininname. whichdiffer whales, ofwh kindsof several Thereare areseve There raI kinds ales, which view' pointofofview, gastronomical point thegastronomical Fromthe size.From andsize. appearanceand appearance of a theseisisof ofthese fleshof Theftesh interest.The ofany anyinterest. areof calvesare whalecalves oniywhale only a appearance' beefininappearance, similartotobecf somewhatsimiJar andsomewhat colourand rediistrcolom reddish by our greatlyesteemed esteemed by notgreatly wasnot meatwas Whalemeat notinintasle. taste.Whale butnot but our the tongueofofthe thetongue bythe storeby somestore setsome theyset butthey grandfathers,but grandfathers, ttlg:t that'it saysti1at Par6says AmbroiseParé saltedAmbroise usuallysalted. Inimal,usually animal. 'it isistender which fatwhich whalefat appreciatedwhale muchappreciated alsomuch Th"yalso deiiciour'.They anddelicious'. and withpeas'. Lent,with ate'during theyale Peas'. they 'during Lent, without timewithout quitea along longlime forquite keptfor canbebekept meatcan whalemeat Aswhale As can required'IlItcan cookasasrequired. storeil,it,10tocook usedtotostore goingbad, sailorsused bad,sailors going (q.u:)' (tunafish) fish)(q.v.). tunny(tuna preparedlike liketunny bebeprepared meat' whalemeat. forwhale recipesfor manyrecipes notmany arenol Thereare There occasiontotoeateat hadananoccasion howhehehad tellshow Br6monttells F6lixBrémont Dr.Félix Dr.

egg.'

WEIGHTS Wehave have MEsuREs- -We ErMESURES PoIDSET MEASURES.POIDS ANDMEASURES. WEIGHTS AND quoted of quantities of thequantities which the recipesininwhich Frenchrecipes oldFrench quotedseveral severaloJd the ingredients are given in old French unils. Often we have tihe ingredients are given in old French units' Often we have indicaled equivalents, but datainina a allthe thedata hereisisal! buthere metriJequivalents, themetric indicaied the com para tive tatable. ble. comparative Measures unit of oldunit (pound):this thisold Livre(pound): weight - Livre Measuresofofweigbt .of measure generally butititisisgenerally values, but variedvalues, hadvaried i'ashad weighthas measureofofweight accepled to be the equivalent of 489· 5 g. accepted to be the equivalent of489'5 g' fiJarc. 244·75 g.g' i.e'2M'75 livre,i.e. halfa alivre, Equalledhall' Marc.Equalled Quarteron. Quarter ofofa alivre, 122g.g' i.e.about about122 livre,i.e. Quarteron. Quarter Once. 59 g.g' 30'59 i'e'30· partofofa alivre, livre,i.e. One-sixteenthpart Once.One-sixteenth Gros. One-eighth part of an once, i.e. 3·825 g. Gros. One-eighth part of an once, i'e' 3'825 g' Grain. 0'053g.g' gram'i.e. i'e'0·053 one-eighteenthofofa agram, Aboutone-eighteenth Grain.About Measures of capacity - Muid represented 2feuilleues or 4 Measures of capacity - Muid represented 2feuillettes or 4 quartauts, litres. quar tauts,i.e. 268' 23 litres' i.e.268·23 Pinte. Paris). litre(in(inParis). 0'93litre Equalled0·93 Pinte.Equalled Quartaut. 72T2French pints, litres' about676Tlitres. pints,i.e.i.e.about French Quartaut. 977

WHEAT whale meat in 1892 in a restaurant near the Halles: .I will not whale meat in bad 1892about in a restaurant near the Halles: '1 will not say anything whale meat, but neither can I find it in say bad about whale meat, but neither can 1 find it in meanything to say anything good about it. Boil a piece lean beef in me to say anything good about it. Boil a piece ofoflean beef in water which has been used to wash a not-ioo-fresh mackerel, water which been used to wash a not-too-fresh mackerel, and you willhas have a dish similar to that which was served to and willthe have a dish similar to that which was served to me you under name of Escalope of whale d la Valois,. Whale me under na me of Escalope ofwhale à la Valois'. Whale steaks arethe often served in Norwav. steaks are often served in Norway. Whale Calf. slrrNneu - The young of the whale. Its flesh Calf. BALEINEAU - The young of the wh ale. Its flesh isWhale very delicate and is prepared ai for tunny (q.v.). is very delicate and is prepared as for tunny (g.v.).

WHEAT. nrf, rnorrrrNr - Cereal crop known and cultivated WHEAT. BLÉ, FROMENT - Cereal crop known and cultivated from the earliest times. Wheat appears to have originated from the earliest times. Wheat appears to have originated inin Chaldea. From there it found its tay all over the East and to Chaldea. From there it found its way ail over the East and to Italy. The Gauls, according to Herodotus, discovered it as a Italy. The Gauls, according to Herodotus, discovered it as a result of their overseas expeditions. In Caesar's time, it was of their In Caesar's time, it was result cultivated in overseas Gaul on expeditions. a very limited scale. In the sixteenth cultivated in Gaul on a very limited In the sixteenth century the poor had only barley or ryescale. bread eat. Wheaten century the poor had only barley or rye bread totoeat. Wheaten bread was reserved exclusively for the rich man's table. bread was reserved exclusively for the rich man's Wheat grain, which is a fruit in the botanical table. sense of the Wheat grain, which is a fruit in the botanical sense of the word, consists of three parts: shell (or pericarp), nut (or word, consists of three parts: shell (or pericarp), nut (or caryopsis) and seed (or embryo). The shell represents 14.36 caryopsis) seed (or embryo). The shell represents 14·36 per cent ofand the grain. The nut, consisting of gluten, is filled per of the grain. The nu t, consisting of glulen, is filled withcent starch cells. starch cells. with According to strain and race, it contains on the average - According to strain and race, it contains on the average from 9 to I 1 per cent ofgluten and from 56 to 75 per cent of from 9 to Il per cent of gluten and from 56 to 75 per cent of starch. It represents 84.21 per cent ofthe grain. starch. It represen ts 84· 21 per cent of the grain. The embryo (1.43 per cent of the grain) is rich in The embryo (1-43 per cent of the grain) is rich in nitrogenous matter and fats. It also conAins ferment and nitrogenous matter and fats. It also ferment and odoriferous substances. In addition contains to starch gluten, starch and and gluten, odoriferous substances. In addition to wheat grain also contains soluble sugar, dextrinel and wheat grain also contains soluble sugar, dextrines and mineral salts (ash). mineraI saI ts (ash). There is a considerable number of varieties, which can be There is a considerable number of varieties, which can be classified in two groups: hard grain, richer in gluten, and soft in two groups: hard grain, richer in gluten, and soft classified grain, richer in starch. grain, richer in starch. main uses of grain are in the making and manufacture ^The The main uses grain are in the making and manufacture of cereals, floy1s, of pasta products and bread (see BREAD). of cereals, fiours, pasta products and bread (see BREAD). Germinated ivheat. nrE csnM6 - Wheat is not onlv eaten in Germinated wheat. BLÉ GERMÉ - Wheat is not only eaten in the form of flour and bread; dieticians ,""o-^.nd eating it the form of fiour and bread; dieticians recommend eating it raw after germination of the grain. has a remarkable raw after germination of the grain. It has a remarkable amino "mino acid content which increases by It130 cent during during the acid content which increases by 130 per per cent the germination period. At this stage, too, an amylose upfrurc germination period. At this stage, too, an amylose appears which parfly hydrolizes the reserve starch and aid-s its which partI y hydrolizes the reserve starch and aids its transformation in the digestive tract. Last but not least, the transformation in the digestive tract. Last but not least, the seeds are rich in Vitamin B. Ripe wheat can contain as much seeds are rich in Vitamin B. Ripe wheat can conta in as much as l0 to 20 mg. per 100 g. of this precious vitamin. as lOto 20 mg. per 100 g. of this precious vitamin. Wheatgerm, therefore, constitutes a first-class energy food Wheatgerm, therefore, constitutes a first-class energy food and strengthens resistance to disease. and strengthens resistance to disease. How to prepare germinated wheat. Dr. pierre Oudinot HolV 10 prepare germinaled wheal. Dr. Pierre Oudinot offers this simple and practical recipe: .Select good quality offers this simple and practical recipe: 'Select good quality seed corn, enough for three dayi' needs. pick ou... if seed corn, enough for three days' needs. Pick over, if necessary, and wash in cold water. Soak in plenty of cold necessary, and wash in cold water. Soak in plenty of cold water, preferably spring or rain water, but this ii of slcondary water, preferably spring or rain water, but this is of secondary importance. A large soup plate importance. A large soup plate or or similar similar dish dish serves serves thl the purpose. purpose. 'The wheat must be completely immersed for twenty_four 'The wheat must be completely immersed for twenty-four hours. At the end of this period, drain the grains, rinse them At the end of this period, drain the grains, rinse them inhours. fresh water, and replace, damp, in the dish. iepeat this in fresh water, and replace, damp, in the dish. Repeat this operation every twenty-four hours. After forty-eight hours, operation every twenty-four hours. After forty-eight hours, the grain will have softened and the barely perteptible white the grain will have softened and the barely perceptible white speck of the germ will have emerged. The grlin may be eaten speck of the germ will have emerged. The grain may be eaten at this point, but is edible for a further two days. It is essential at this point, but is edible for a further two days. 1t is essential to ensure that the grain never dries. Ifnecessary, it should be to ensure that the grain never dries. If necessary, it should be moistened in the course of the day. In winter, klep the wheat moistened in the course of the day. In win ter, keep the wheat inin the kitchen; the kitchen; in in summer, summer, choose choose aa cooler cooler rbom. room. With With practice, these small precautions become a matter of routine.' practice, these sm ail precau tions become a matter of routine.' Ten or so grains of germinated wheat should be taken to Ten or so grains of germinated wheat should be taken to begin with, and thoroughly masticated to a pap. This may be begin with, and thoroughly masticated to a pap. This may be gradually increased to a level teaspoon for adults and gradually increased to a level teaspoon for adults and

adolescents.Five Fiveororsixsixweil-cru well-crushed grainsare are sufficientforfor adolescents. shed grains sufficient children. children. shouldbebetaken takendaily, preferablyatatthe daily,preferably thebeginning beginningofofthe ItItshould the mealalong alongwith withthe thehors-d'œuvre hors-d'euvreororsalad; salad;alternatively, alternatiiely,inin meal the morning breakfasttime. time.There Thereis isnonofixed fixedrule ruleasastotothe the morning atatbreakfast itre durationofofthe thecure; cure;it itvaries variesfrom fromindividual individuartotoindividual individual duration accordingtotohis hisconstitutional constitutionalneeds needsand andhis histolerance toleranceofofthis according this unusualfood. food.Generally Generallyspeaking, speaking,wheatgenn wheatgerncan canbebetaken unusual taken regularly for periods diysfollowed followedbybyrest periods regularly for periods ofof1212toto15I 5days restperiods thesame sameduration. duration. ofofthe Wheatinindietetics. dietetics.BLÉ er6ENBr.rDIETETIQUE DTETETTeuE- _Cereals, Cereals,and Wheat andwheat wheat particular,are arevery veryimportant importantnutritionally. nutritionally.The ininparticular, Theflours flours extracted from themoccu prideofofplace occupy placeininthe extracted from them py pride y thenormal normaldail daily diet:bread, bread,pas pastries, dessert,sauces ,au"e.and andother otherculinary diet: tries, dessert, culinarv preparations.Thirty-five Thirty-fiveper percent centofofthe thecalories caloriesand preparations. and313i percent centof proteins of ofthe theproteins ofthe thedaily dailydiet dietare arederived per derivedfrom from cereals. cereals. Thefollowing following constitutes constitutes a agrain grainofwheat. of wheat.There Thereisisfirst The firstthe the exterior husk, husk, the pericarp,which thepericarp, whichisisvery veryhard hardand exterior andencrusted encrusted with lignite. lignite.Then Thencome comethe theintermediary intermediary layers: layers:the with theseed seedcoat coat and the thehyaline hyaline band. band.Attached Attachedtotothis this triple and tiiplecasing casingisisan an important part of the grain,the thegrain, proteic layer, theproteic layir, containing important part of containingaa substancecalled called aleuron, aleuron, aamixture mixturi ofproteins, of proteins, vitamins substance vitaminsand aid mineral salts. salts. Beneath Beneath this this there thereisis the mineraI ihe kernel kernelcontaining containins proteins and and starch; starch; ititconstitutes constitutes four-fifths four-fifthsof proteins ofthe thevolume volumeof o-f grain. Finally, the grain. Finally, inin the the lower lower part part of of the theconvex the convexsurface surface isis germ, very the germ, very small, small, 1·5 per cent 1.5 per cent of the of the the whole grain, whole grain, containing ail all the the vital vital force, force, the the embryo. embryo. containing Mod^er_n milling milling processes processes using using metal metal rollers rollers deprive deprive the the ^ Modern llour of the the most most vital vital and and important important constituents fiour of constituents of of wheat: wheat: the whole whole of of the the husk husk with with the proteic layer, the proteic the layer, and germ. and the the germ. The fiour flour we we use use to to make make our our bread bread isis thus The thus stripped stripped of of an an essential part part of of its its food food and and energy energy value. value. This essential the reason This isiJthe reason for the controversy controversy over over the the merits meriis of for the of wholemeal wholemeal bread bread as as opposed to to white white bread. (See BREAD, bread. (See BREAD, Bread opposed Bread in in dielelies.) dietetics.\

WHIPPED CREAM. CREAM. WHlPPED with aa whisk whisk or or beater. with

rourrrfr -

cntun FOUETTÉE CRÈME

Cream Cream whipped whipped

WHISK. FOUET FouET -- Utensil to to beat eggs, WmSK. eggs, cream, cream, white sauces, sauces, biarnaise, hol!andaise-, hollandaise, mayonnaise, etc. béarnaise, etc. For cooking, whisks made ofmetal of metal are used. made used. For baking and confectionery confectioneiy whisks whisks

Large egg-whisk egg-wbisk Large (Larousse) (Larousse)

978 978

WHITING

WHITING

made , madeofofbox-wood box-woodor orwicker wickerare are also also used. used. Modern Modern rotary rotary hand handand andelectric electricbeaters beatersare areoften oftenused usedto toreplace replacethe thewhisk, whisk, but manyprofessionals professionalsfind findthese theseinferior inferiortotothe thewhisk. whisk. , butmany 1

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WHISKY WHISKY or or WHISKEY WHISKEY -- Grain Grain spirit spirit from from Scotland Scotland or or Ireland Ireland distilled distilled from from barley, barley, rye rye and and other other cereals, cereals, malted malted

1

andfermented. fermented, and There Therewere wereonly onJythe the three threelines !inesabove above on on this this subject subject in in the the 1938 ofLarousse Laroussegastronomique. gastronomique. Evidencn Evidence enough enough of of 1938edition edition of

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the the rapid rapid spread spread of of this this spirit spirit in in France, France, which which now now has has aa place placeon on the the shelves shelvesof ofthe the most most modest modest provincial provincial tavern. ta vern. The The origin origin of ofwhisky whisky isis obscure, obscure, but but its its name name comes cornes from from the that is is still still spoken spoken in in the Celtic. Cel tic. Uisgebeatha, Uisgebeatha, in in the the Gaelic Gaelic that and in in the the Highlands Highlands of of Scotland, Scotland, means means 'water 'water of of Ireland and Ireland life'. We We suppose, suppose, therefore, therefore, that that whisky whisky was was first first distilled distilled in in )life'. Ireland from from where where itit spread spread to to Western Western Scotland. Scotland. Ireland Originally, itit was was aa distillation distillation of of malt, malt, home home made made by by the the Originally, robust drink drink suited suited to to the the hard ha rd local local climate' c\imate. crofters. ItIt was was aa robust crofters. 1 Soon Soon itit began began to to be be manufactured manufactured industrially industrially but, but, after after 1830, 1830, instead of ofbeing made from from malt, malt, itit was was made made from from grain grain and and being made instead was lighter lighter in in character character with with a finer bouquet' bouquet. was skilful Nowadays, the the best-known best-known manufacturers manufacturers produce produce skilful Nowadays, grain The grain of different different types types of of whisky, whisky, malt malt and grain. grain. The blends of blends or even even aa be malted barley, unmalted unmalted barley, maize, rye or can be of these. mixture of mixture because of its own because 'Scotch' or Scottish whisky whisky is in a class of 'scotch' 50is usually aa 50It is of the peaty peaty water used in its manufacture. It of (spelt Irish whiskey (spelt grain whiskies. whiskies. Irish malt and 50 blend blend of malt and grain S0 unu-sual an unusual has an others) has the others) differently to distinguish it from from the differently indispensable ingredient and quite individual flavour; it is an indispensable quiteindividual Rye small' Rye comparatively smal!. of is comparatively Production is Irish coffee. coffee. Production of Irish malted from malted is made from whisky (Canadian or American whisky) is rye unmalted rye quantity of of unmalted rye or barley, of aa quantity addition of barley, with the addition (American willsky) whisky) isis vides the which Bourbon (American provides sugar. Bourbon the sugar. which pro made from malted maize. and maize. malted wheat and to tried to have tried 'manufacturers' have Not French 'manufacturers' Not surprisingly, surprisingly, French the as the undrinkable as produce as undrinkable whisky: itit isis as of whisky: produce their version of thiir version Cognac France. outside France. manufactured outside Cognac manufactured still' the still. from the comes from Whisky, when itit cornes clear when all spirits, spirits, isis clear like aIl Whisky, like its colour colour barrels, its ln oak barrels, maturation inin oak of maturation course of In the the course drink itit lovers drink deepens Whisky lovers improves. Whisky quality improves. its quality and its deepens and con(on ice), true conbut true ice), but with 'on the rocks' (on the rocks' or 'on water or 'flat' water with 'flat' or refrigerated or be refrigerated noisseurs not be should not whisky should know that that whisky noisseurs know as temperature as same temperature served atthe thesame beserved served at It should with ice. ice. It should be served with accompanies it.it' the thataccompanies water that unaerated water of unaerated amount of the small small amount Chivas, suchasasChivas, This whiskies such for old old whiskies relevant for This isis especially especially relevant yearsold. old' tenyears Legacy over ten ones over venerable ones more venerable even more ttt. even Legacy and und the health certain health Unauthorised attributesaa certain propaganda attributes Uniuthorised propaganda Thisisis value troubles'This hearttroubles. for heart remedy for whisky; that that ititisisaaremedy value to towhisky; sameiJIill producing the thesame not besides producing same, besides All the thesame, not strictly true.Ali strictlytrue. whiskyisis effects beverages,whisky alcoholic beverages, otheralcoholic bodyasasother on the the body effects on both absorption inin Itsabsorption vasodilator. Its andaa vasodilator. stimulantand both aastimulant justifiedfor colds, moderate fatigue,colds, forfatigue, bejustified cantherefore thereforebe dosescan moderate doses esters, influenza, notrelease releaseesters, doesnot grainspirits, spirits,ititdoes allgrain Likeal! influenza,etc. etc.Like and Accordingtoto fruit'According fromfruit. madefrom spirits made betterthan thanspirits andages agesbetter sorne spirits otherspirits superiortotoother farsuperior byfar whiikyisisby ionnoisseurs whisky romeconnoisseurs used cooking. usedinincooking. bstituted for Whisky, Armagnac CognacororArmagnac forCognac besusubstituted maybe Whisky,then, then,may infiambages, etc. inflambages,etc. lnInGeneva 'Confrérie dudubon whisky'' vieuxwhisky'. bonvieux Genevathere thereisisa a'Confrdrie the 'Irish Finally, 'Irish for.the recipefor genuineShannon Shannonrecipe thegenuine hereisisthe Finally,here many coffee' whichmany andwhich connoisseursand pleasesthe theconnoisseurs coffee'that tiratsosopleases consider all' dessertofofail. bestdessert thebest considertotobebethe Irish measure glass.Pour Pourinina ameasure largeglass. warma alarge Gentlywarm Irishcoffee coffee- -Gently ofofIrish mps ofofsugar, accordingtoto sugar'according Addseveral severallulumps whiskey.Add Irishwhiskey. perhaps taste. thisis isperhaps andthis sugaratatal!alland notadd addsugar (Somepeople peopledodonot taste.(Sorne ananimprovement.) (l|inches) inches)ofof cm.(Iiglasstotowithin within3 3cm. theglass fiUthe improvement.;Fil! the the dissolvethe Stirtotodissolve coffee.Stir blackcoffee. strongblack verystrong withvery brimwith thebrim 1

1

thick cream. Do not stir again as the sugar. sugar.Slowly Slowlyadd addchilled chilled thick cream. Do not stir again as the the toP. float on cream should cream should Hoat on the top.

The 'fry' or young of the WHITEBAIT. WIDTEBAIT. nulqcnxLLE BLANCHAILLE -- The 'fry' or young of the (Clupea harengus) and sprat (Clupea common common herring herring (Clupea harengus) and sprat (Clupea sprattus),which abound in the Thames and along the coasts

coasts sprattus), which abound in the Thames and along the in the found in vast numbers of of tn. the North North Sea. Sea. It Il is is also also found in vast numbers in the

mouth mouth of ofthe the Garonne. Garonne. fried in deep fat. These These little Iittle fishes fishes are are mostly mostly fried in deep fat. given for nonats (q.v') (the 'fry' of a small recipes the All AJl the recipes given for nonats (q.v.) (the 'fry' of a small to whitebait' Mediterranean Mediterranean goby) goby) are are applicable applicable to whitebait. poRt6s - Variety of chard (q'v')' WHITE BEET. WHITE BEET. POIRÉE - Variety of chard (q.v.). Several migrant birds are WHITE-TAIL. WHITE-TAIL. cul-nlANc CUL-BLANC - Several migrant birds are the wheatear, prized in especially name, by this known known by this name, especially the wheatear, prized in the same way as lark (q'v')' in game, cooked and as France France as game, and cooked in the same way as lark (q.v.).

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Whiting Whiting

gadoid fish whiting isisaagadoid European whiting The European MERLAN -- The WHITING. MERLAN WIDTING. fish has soft rounded body. ItIt has compact body. somewhat compact long, somewhat with aa long, soft rounded with with back, thegreen along along the olive green greyish or or olive and isis greyish scales and scales back, with speckled white, speckled are white, Its Banks flanks are shading' Its palJyeilow or pale copper or copper yellow shading. and 4l cm' between26 silvery' ItIt isisbetween belly silvery. yellow, and its belly and its wiih yellow, with 26 and 41 cm. the mainly inin the caught mainly Whitingisis caught long' Whiting (10 and inches) long. 16 inches) and 16 (10 texture, fineinintexture, fleshisisfine Itsflesh Baltic. Its the Baltic. and the channel and inglish Channel English digest. todigest. and easy easyto flaky and flaky similarinin pollack,isissimilar the pollack, whiting, the species-of Another species Another of whiting, Its flesh' darker'Its anddarker. colourand yellowish inincolour but isisyellowish appearance but appearance fiesh, the thatofofthe thanthat delicate than lessdelicate quality,isisless good quality, of good though of though proper. whiting whiting proper. hake and is silverhake knownasassilver alsoknown whitingisisalso trelmeiican The American whiting and is whitingisis313ltoto average whiting Theaverage coast.The England coast. NewEngland offthe fishedoff fished the New not are specimensare not largerspecimens butlarger longbut (12toto1414inches) inches)long cm.(12 36cm. 36 uncommon. uncommon. the fish Slitthe L'lNGLlse- -Slit MERLANÀi L'ANGLAISE I'anglaise.MERLAN Whitingài l'anglaise. Wbiting fish dipinin flour'dip Season,flour, backbone.Season, removebackbone. aidremove tne"back alon!the along back and well browning in butter, fryin butter, browning well onon andfry breadcrumbsand indbreadcrumbs eggand egg bothsides. sides, both Mattre softenedMaître withslightly slightlysoftened coveredwith dishcovered ona adish Servcon Serve butters\' Compoundbutters). (seeBUTTER, BUTTEF.,Compound butter(see d'h6telbutter d'hôtel boiled andboiled butterand meltedbutter withmelted servedwith whiting,served Grilledwhiting, GriUed l'anglaise. whitingà dl'anglaise. calledwhiting potatoes,isisalso alsocalled potatoes, Makea ashallow shallow erRcv- -Make MERLANÀ iLALlBERCY Bercy.MERLAN Whitingà ilalaBercy. Wbiting buttered whitinginina a-buttered thewhiting Putthe back.Put theback. incisionalong ilongthe incision chopped teaspoonofofchopped witha ateaspoon sprinklewith dishand andsprinkle fireproofdish fireproof shallot. shallot. cup) scant~ Icup) tablespoons,scant with1 Idl.dl.(6(6tablespoons, moistenwith Season.moisten Season, tiny intotiny cutinto buttercut teaspoonsbutter with2 2teaspoons dotwith wineand anddot whitewine white the bakeininthe stove,ththen thestove, boilononthe theboil Bringtotothe fragments.Bring en bake fragments. frequentlY. bastingfrequently. oven,basting oven, Squeezea a oven' hotoven. veryhot cooked,glaze hshis iicooked, Whenthe thefish When in a very Squeeze $azeina with sprinklewith andsprinkle juiceover fishand thefish overthe lemonjuice fewdrops dropsofoflemon a afew parsley. choppedparsley. chopped MERLAN sauce'MERLAN othersauce. butterororother mettedbutter withmelted whitingwith Boiledwhiting Boiled 979 979

WHITING WHITING BouILLr AvEc BEURRE FoNDU Boilthe thewhiting whitingininsalt saltwater. water. BOUILLI AVEC BEURRE FONDU - - Boil Drain,and garnish with andgarnish potatoesand with potatoes parsley.Serve andfresh freshparsley. Serve Drain, with melted melted butter butteror orany anysauce saucesuitable suitable for forboiled boiledfish. fish. with Whitingài lala bonne bonnefemme. femme. MERLAN MERLANÀALA r.c.BONNE soNNE FEMME FEMME- Wbiting Prepare as asfor for Bril! BrillàdlaIabonne (seeBRILL). bonne femme BRILL). femme (see Prepare prepare Whiting ài lalacancalaise. cancalaise.MERLAN MERLANÀALA raCONCALAISE coNcar.llse- -Prepare Whiting (see BRILL). Brill asfor it la cancalaise as for Bril! à la cancalaise (see BRILL). Whiting Colbert. Colbert. MERLAN MERLAN COLBERT coLBERr- -Slit Slitthe whitingalong thewhiting along Wbiting the back back and and rem remove backbone.Season Season with pepper, withsalt saltand andpepper, the ove backbone. sprinkle with with flour, flour, dip dipininegg eggand and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and anddeep deepfry. fry. sprinkle Put into into the the slit slit inin the fish1I tablespoon the fish tablespoon Maître Mattre d'hôtel d'h6tel Put (see BUTTER, Compound butters). butter (see butter BUTTER, Compound butters). prepare as Whiting ài la la dieppoise. dieppoise. MERLAN MERLAN ÀALA orcpporsn - - Prepare r,c,DIEPPOISE as -forWhiting Brill (see BRILL). d la dieppoise (see BRILL). for Bril! à la dieppoise Whiting ài l'espagnole. I'espagnole. MERLAN MERLAN,c. r'rsplcNore - - Dip Dip ininegg egg Whiting À L'ESPAGNOLE and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs as as indicated indicated for for Whiting Whiting àdl'anglaise. l'anglaise. Fry Fry inin and oil until until weil well browned browned on on both both sides. sides.Serve Serveon on aa bed bedof of oil (see FONDUE) seasoned with alittlecrushed Tomatofondue Tomato fondue (see FONDUE) seasoned with a little crushed garlic. Garnish Garnish each each end end of of the the dish dish with with aac1ump clumpof ofon onion garlic. ion rings fried fried in in oil. oil. rings Fillets of of whiting. whiting. FILETS FrLErs DE DE MERLAN MERLAN -- Fillets Fillets of of whiting whiting can can Fillets prepared in be prepared in ail all ways ways suitable suitable for for whole whole whiting.· whiting.' be given for Recipes given for fillets fillets of perch, brill, of sea sea perch, brill, sole, sole, etc., etc., are are Recipes also suitable suitable for for fillets fillets ofwhiting. of whiting. also Whiting forcemeat. forcemeat. fARCE FARcE DE DE MERLAN MERLAN -- Made Made of of whiting, whiting, Whiting panade (q.v.) (q.v.) cream pike cream and and eggs, eggs, in in the the same same way way as as Pike panade (see FORCEMEATS). FORCEMEATS). for cemeat (see forcemeat Fried whiting. whiting. MERLAN MERLAN FRIT FRrr -- Slit Slit the the whiting, whiting, dip dip in in milk milk Fried and flour. flour. Fry, Fry, drain, drain, and and season season with with dry dry table salt. table salt. and Serve with with fried parsley and fried parsley and lemon lemon halves. halves. Serve Whiting au gratin. MERLAN au gratin. MERLAN AU AU GRATIN cRATTN -- Prepare Prepare as as for for Sole So/e Whiting gratin (see (see SOLE). au gratin SOLE). au Grilled whiting. whiting. MERLAN MERLAN GRILLÉ cnnrf -- Make Make aa shallow shallow incision incision Grilled in the the whiting. whiting. Season, Season, dredge dredge with with flour, flour, brush brush with with melted melted in butter grill under or oil oil and and grill gentle heat. under gentle heat. butter or

Garnishwith parsleyand withparsley andslices slicesofoflemon lemonand andserve servewith with Garnish meltedbutter, butter,Maître Mattred'hôtel d'h6telbutter, butter,ororany anysauce saucesuitable suitablefor for melted grilledfish. (SeeBUTTER, fish.(See BUTTER,Compound Compoundbutters, butters,and SAUCE.) and SAUCE.) grilled Whitingloaf loaf- -See SeeLOA LOAVES, Fishloaves. loaves. Whiting VES, Fish Whitingenenlorgnette (fried).MERLAN lorgnette(fried). r\TERLANFRIT FRrrEN ENLORGNETTE LoRGNETTE- Whiting Filleta alarge largewhiting, whiting,starting startingatatthe tailand andworking workingtowards thetail Fillet towards thehead. head.Shave Shaveoff offthe theflesh fleshvery veryclose closetotothe bone.Remove thebone. Remove the thebone, bone,cutting cuttingititoff offat thebase baseof ofthe thehead. head.Season Seasonthe the at the fish thefish anddip dipininegg eggand andbreadcrumbs. breadcrumbs. Roll Rollthe thefillets. fillets.Skewer and Skewer themtotokeep keepthem themininshape. shape. them Deepfry fryininhot hotfat fatand garnishwith andgarnish parsleyand withfried friedparsley Deep and lemon. lemon. pocnnENnN Whitingenen lorgnette (poached).MERLAN lorgnette(poacbed). MERLAN POCHE Wbiting LoRcNErrE - - Split Splitthe thewhiting whitingopen openasasindicated indicatedabove LORGNETTE aboveand and remove the thebone. bone.Season Season the thefillets. fillets.Spread remove layer, Spreadthem themwith witha alayer, not too toothick, thick,of ofFishforcemeat (seeFORCEMEATS), Fish forcemeat(see not FORCEMEATS), roll roll themup, up,and putthem andput themininaabuttered butteredbaking them bakingdish dishmoistened moistened with concentrated concentrated fishfumet (q.v.).Cook fishfumet (q.v.). with Cookininthe theoyen, basting oven,basting frequently. frequently. Drain the thefish, fish,and andserve Drain servewith garnishand with the thegarnish andsauce sauce indicated. indicated. prepareasas Whiting ài lalameunière. meuniire. MERLAN MERLAN ÀALA Whiting rl MEUNIÈRE MsuNrtnn- -Prepare MERLAN AUX AUXCOURGETTES, couRGETTEs, AUBERGINES AUBERGTNEs - -Season MERLAN Season the thewhiting, whiting, dredge with with flour flourand and fry fryininbutter. dredge butter. Garnish with with !ittle little Italian Garnish Italian marrows marrows or oraubergines, aubergines,diced diced and sautéed saut6ed in juice over in oil. and oil. Squeeze Squeeze aa!ittle little lemon lemon juice overthe thefish, fish, sprinkle with with chopped chopped parsley, parsley, and sprinkle pour on and pour on22tablespoons tablespoons (3(3 tablespoons) browned browned butter. tablespoons) butter. prepareas Whiting ài lala meunière. Whiting meuniire. MERLAN MERLAN Àd LA uruurhr - - Prepare rl MEUNIERE as for Bass llass àd la (see BASS). la meunière for meunidre (see BASS). Whiting mousse. motnse. MOUSSE Wbiting MoussE DE DE MERLAN MERLAN - - Using Using raw raw whiting, whiting, prepare as as indicated prepare indicated for (see FISH). for Fish Fish mousse mousse (see FISH). Fill aa deep deep dish Fill dish three-quarters three-quarters full full of of this this mixture mixture and and cook cook inabain-marie. in a bain-marie. Serve with garnish and Serve with garnish sauce as and sauce as indicated indicated in in the the recipe. recipe.

Filleting Whiting Whiting Filleting

Make just below Make an an incision incisionjusi below the the head head

Cut along the the backbone the length length of ofthe backbone

Cut the fillet Cutthe fiUet away away completely completely from from the the bone bone and and rernove remove

The two two fillets fillets cleaned cleaned and and ready ready for for cooking cooking The

980 980

WILD BOAR

WILDBOAR

Whiting Wbiting with witb mushrooms. mushrooms. MERLAN MERLAN AUx AUX cHAMPIGNoNS CHAMPIGNONS - -

with mushrooms Proceed Proceedasfor as forBrill Brillwith mushrooms(see (seeBRILL). BRILL).

Whiting WbitingOrly. Orly.uenlaN MERLANoRLY ORLY- - Fillet Filletaalarge largeraw rawwhiting' whiting. Dipthe thefillets filIetsininaalighter lighterbatter. batter. Dip Deep-fry hotfai. fat. Drain, Drain, sprinkle sprinklewith withtable tablesalt,.and salt, and Deep-fryininhot garnish garnish with with fried fried parsley. parsley. Serve Serve with with Tomato Tomato sauce sauce lsee (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Whiting Whltingwith witboysters. oysters.MERLAN MERLANlux AUXnufrnrs HUITRES-- Prepare Preparethe the whiting Bril! with with oysters oysters (see (see BRILL)' BRILL). whiting as as indicated indicated for for Brill Garnishwith withpoached poachedoysters, oysters,drained drainedand andtrimmed' trimmed . Garnish Whiting sur leplat. plat.MERLAN MERLANsuR SURLE LEPLAT PLAT-- Make Makeaashallow shallow Whitiogsufle incision along thl the back back of of the the whiting. whiting. Season' Season. Put Put itit in in aa incision along buttered butteredfirepioof fireproofdish dishand and pour pouron on 22to to 33tablespoons tablespoonswhite white wine and aa few few drops drops lemon lemonjuice. juice. Bring Bring to to the the boil boil on on the the wine and and finish finish cobking cooking in in the the oven, oven, basting basting frequently' frequently. stove and stove cookingdish. dish. Serveinin the thecooking Serve Whiting MERLAN RIcI{ELIEU RICHELIEU -- Prepare Prepare as as for for Wbiting Richelieu. Richelieu. MERLAN Whiting ià l'anglaise. l'anglaise. Cover Cover with with Mattre Maître d'hAtel d'hôtel butter butter (see (see Whiting BUTTER, BUTTER, Compound Compound butters) butters) and and arrange arrange 44 strips strips of oftruffie truIDe on top. top. on Whiting MERLAN EN EN PAUPIETTss PAUPIETTES -- Fillet Fillet the the Whitiog paupiettes. paupiettes. MERLAN fish forcemeat' whiting. whiting. SpieaA Spread the the inside inside with with aa thin thin layer layer of offish forcemeat. Roll and poach poach in in concentrated concentrated fish fish stock' stock. Roll the the fiilets fillets tightly tightly and Prepare according according to to the the recipe recipe selected. selected. Prepare Paupiettes of of wniting whiting can be be prepared prepared d à la la Bercy; Bercy; d à la la iaupiettes dieppoise; aux fines fines herbes; herbes; au gratin; gratin; d à la la Nantua, Nantua, d à la la dieppoise; normande; in wirite white wine. All Ali garnishes garnishes and and sauces sauces indicated indicated normande:in suitable for this this dish. dish. sole are suitable for sole Whiting MERLAN AUx AUX cREVETTs CREVETTES -- Prepare Prepare as as Wbiting with shrimps. shrimps. MERLAN for Brill Bril! with with shrimps shrimps (see (see BRILL). BRILL). as for Whiting in wine. wine. MERLAN MERLAN AU AU vIN VIN BLANc BLANC - Prepare Prepare as for Bril! white wine (see BRILL). BR ILL). inwhite Brill in to applied to Term applied ms -- Term (WHOLE-WHEAT). BIS WHOLEMEAL (WHOLE-WHEA1). procertain procontain aa certain which contain bread which homemade bread of homemade loaves loaves of flour' rye fiour. and rye of wheat and mixture ofwheat of a mixture of bran, or made ofa portion ofbran, (See colour' brown col of aa brown is of bread is wholemeal bread th. crust of of wholemeal The our. (See "trrtt BREAD.) BREAD.)

2 dl. (+ pint, scant cup) red wine, a pinch basin. basin. Add Add 2 dl. (1 pint, scant cup) red wine, a pinch

powdered cinnamon, 5 cloves and 500 g. (18 oz', 2f cups) fine powdered cinnamon, 5 c10ves and 500 g. (l8 oz., 2* cups) fine Bring to the boil, skim and cook for 30 minutes' irrgat. sugar. Bring to the boil, skim and cook for 30 minutes. whortleberries and boil down the juice until it brain the Drain the whortleberries and boil down the juice until it reaches the consistency of a thick syrup. Put the berries back Put the berries back reaches the consistency of a thick syrup. and mix well. Cool, and put in jars' Seal firmly into intothe thesyrup syrup and mix weil. Cool, and put in jars. Seal firmly place. and andkeep keepininaacool cool place. Serve with boiled beef and with cold meats. Serve with boiled beefand with cold meats. or huckleberry compote. coMPorE D'AIRELLES Whortleberry D'AIRELLES Whortleberry or buckleberry compote. COMPOTE dJ' (* fint, of500 g. (l8 oz', 2fcups) sugar' I u,ytnp --Prepare Prepare a syrup of500 g. (18 oz., 2icups) sugar, 2 dl. pinto cinnamon piece of scant cup) *itei the peel of I lemon and a scant cup) water, the peel of t lemon and a piece of cinnamon bark. Pick over I kg.Qi lb.) whortleberries, remove stalks

(t

bark. Pick over 1 kg.

(2!- lb.)

whortleberries, remove stalks

put into syrup. Boil fast' and and put intothe the syrup. Boil fast. Rimove the berries with a perforated spoon as soon as they Remove the berries with a perforated spoon as sooo as they are cooked and put into a dish' Boil down the syrup and pour are cooked and put into a disb. Boil down the syrup and pour over the fruit. Chill before serving.

over the fruit. Chili before serving. or huckleberry jam. coNFITURE D'AIRELLES Whortleberry Whortleberry or huckleberry jam. CONFITURE D'AIRELLES For 2 kg. (4+ lb.) seeded whortie-berries allow 11ke. (3* lb'' G For 2 kg. (4t lb.) seeded whortleberries a\low 1t kg. (3-tlb., 6t cups) sugar. Vt"tt the sugar with I litre (scant pint, ?i cups) cups) sugar. MeIt the sugar with t litre (scant pint, 2i cups) in- a copper or stainless steel pan. Add the berries' water water in a copper or stainless steel pan. Add the berries. with a wooden spoon to prevent the Cook, stirringliequently Cook, stirring frequently with a wooden spoon to prevent the pan. fruit to the fruit sticking sticking to the pan. off as described in the general rules for making jam Finish rules for ma king jam Finish off as described in the generaljars and seal' (see JAMS AND JELLIES). Pour into (see JAMS AND JELLIES). Pour into jars and seal. or huckleberry jetly. celdn D'AIRELLEs -2kg' Whortleberry D'AIRELLES - 2 kg. Whortleberry or huckleberry jelly. GELÉE (4t whortleberries, I kg. (2+ lb.) seeded red (4t lb.) lb.) seeded seeded whortleberries, 1 kg. (2i lb.) seeded red and 3 kg. (6+ lb., I 3 cups) sugar. currants currants and 3 kg. (6-! lb., 13 cups) sugar. press the and the red currants to extract all Press the whoitleberries whortleberries and the red currants to extract ail juice. Put this into a pan with the sugar. Mix well and bring to juice. Put this into a pan with the sugar. Mix weil and bring to the the boil. boil. and cook for 5 minutes. Leave to stand until Skim carefully Skim carefully and cook for 5 minutes. Leave to stand until into jars and seal. Pour lukewarm. lukewarm . Pour into jars and seal. kissel (Russian cookery)' or huckleberry kissel Whortleberry cookery). Whortleberry or huckJeberry (2* whortleberries in a lb') (Russian Pound I kg. KrssEL D'AIRELLES KISSEL D'AIRELLES -- Pound 1 kg. (2! lb.) whortleberries in a Press pints) water' (4| pints, 5| about 2| litres mortar, adding adding about mortar, 2t litres (4t pints, st pints) water. Press a napkin to extract alljuice. through through napkin to extract ail juice. puie ataUtespoons cornflour or potato starch into a pan, Put 6 tablespoons cornfiour or potato starch into a pan, juice pour over it and stir. Add225 g. (8 oz', I cup) sugar' the -Boil, the pour juice over it and stir. Add 225 g. (8 oz., 1thickens cup) sugar. and all the time. As soon as the mixture stiriing ail the time. As soon as the mixture thickens and Boil, stirring transparent, transfer it into a bowl. Serve hot. Serve becomes becomes transparent, transfer it into a bowl. Serve hot. Serve seParatelY. thick cream separately very thickcream very . vtonncoMn - Large glass used in Germany WIDERKOMM. WIDERKOMM. VlDRECOME - Large glass used in Germany in the Middle Ages for ceremonial feastsin the Middle Ages for ceremonial feasts.

ARUM, LORDS AI\D LADIES. courr,

Whortleberry Whortleberry

WILD ARUM, LORDS AND LADIES. GOUET, PIED-DEWILD vEAU This plant has a tuberous stem very rich in starch, VEAU -- Tbis plant bas a tuberous stem very rich in starch, which can be extracted and used in cooking. When it is fresh, which can be extracted and used in cooking. When it is fresh, corrosive substance, but this can be bitter, corrosive contains aa bitter, substance, but this can be itit contains by washing or drYing. eliminated by eliminated washing or drying. sANcLIER - Wild mammal, very near to the BOAR. SANGLIER WILDBOAR. WILD - WiJd mammal, very near to the pig(bdte noire,in French hunting terms)' Its flesh, domestic Its flesh, domestic pig (bête noire, in French hunting terms). pronounced 'wild' taste, does not make good halaapronounced which has 'wild' tas te, does not make good which young animals. The flesh of the adult itt the eating e*.epf eating except in the young animais. Thepalatable flesh of the adultto if left becomes onlybecomes andonly toughand animalsisistough animaIs palatable if left to long time. foraalong marinatefor marinate time. age of six months the wild boar is called a theage Uptotothe Up of six months the wild boar is called a from six months to a year, a b€te rousse; between mariassin', marcassin: from six months to a year, a bête rousse; between year and two, a b€te de compagnie; aftet two years, a oneyear one and two, a bête de compagnie; after two years, a years he four an;at tiers d son ,ogoi;at three years a wild boar ragot; at three years a wild boar à son tiers an; at four years he is he when quarteniei, older, a porc entier, and finally, isis"a a quartenier, older, a porc entier, and finally, orwhen he is ermite ' He in age, he is given the name of soli taire advanced advanced in age, he is given the name of solitaire or ermite. He the age of thirty. canattain attainthe can age of thirty. the marcassins and the bdtes rousses are used in their Only Only the marcassins and the bêtes rousses arecreatures, used in their leg, kitchen. Every part of these thekitchen entiretyininthe entirety . Every part of these crea tures, leg, saddle, loin, shoulder and back is excellent. In an old boar sadd le, loin, shoulder and back is excellent. In an old boar only the head is eatable, and even then it is necessary to add to only the head is eatable, and even then i t is necessary to addpork to fine as such ingredients' great other number of it a it a great number of other ingredients, such as fine pork

whortleoerry whortleberrY olwhortleberry branchesofof Smallbranches Small

The AIRELLE- - The HUCKLEBERRY. AIRELLE WHORTLEBERRY ororHUCKLEBERRY. WHORTLEBERRY berries; different berries; definedifferent usedtotodefine oftenused nameairelle airelleisisoften Frenchname French real Thereal etc'The whortleberry,etc. (U.S.A.huckleberry), huckleberry),whortleberry, bilberry(U.S.A. bilberry whichisis taste,which acidinintaste, berry,acid reddishberry, smallreddish whortliberry isisa asmall whortleberry countries(preisel-beere Germaniccountries compotesininGermallÎc mostlyinincompotes Qtreisebbeere, usedmostly used red accompaniment sweet-souraccompanimen makesa asweet-sour German).ItItmakes ininGerman). t totored cranberries thoseofofcran resemble propertiesresem game.Its Itsproperties meatsand andgame. meats ble those berries bilberries. and andbilberries. meats' coldmeats. accompanimenttotocold huckleberryaccompaniment Whortleberryororhuckleberry Whortleberry litres Measure2 2litres stem.Measure thestem. fromthe berriesfrom Separateberries AIRTLLEs- -Separate AIRELLES putthem theminina a andput drain,and wash,drain, (3|pints, pints)berries, berries,wash, pints,4t+jpints)

(3t

981 981

PIED-DE-

WILD BOAR WILDBOAR forcemeat, chicken meat, fresh pork tongue, fat bacon, forcemeat, meat, fresh pork tongue, fat bacon, truffies andchicken pistachios. and pistachios. truffies Before being cooked in any way the meat of the marcbssin being cooked in any way the meat of the marcassin otBefore b€te rousse should be left for a time in a strong marinade. or bête rousse should be left for a time in a strong marinade. Chine of marcassin (young wild boar) i la chipolata. r,crnNs Chine of marcassin (young wild boar) à la chipolata. ÉCHINE DB MARcAssna'ra cHrpoLATA The chine is the whole or part DE MARCASSIN A' LA CHIPOLATA - -The chine is the whole or part of the backbone and adhering flesh. After having marinated of the backbone and adhering flesh. After having marinated the chine for several hours, drain, dry and braise it in a well the chine for several hours, drain, dry and braise it in a weil seasoned braising stock. (See CULINARY METHODS. seasoned braising stock. (See CULINARY METHODS, Braising.) Braising.) When it is three-quarters cooked, drain the chine. put it When it is three-quarters cooked, drain the chine. Put it back in the sauc€pan with aa Chipolata garnish(see Chipolata garnish (see back in the saucepan with GARNISHES). Pour over the juicesfrom strained juices from the ihe GARNISHES). Pour over the strained braising. Finish cooking, simmering very slowly. braising. Finish cooking, simmering very slowly. Civet of marcassin (young wild boar). crvrr DE MARcAssrN _ boar). CIVET DE MARCASSIN Civet of marcassin (young wild Prepared llke Civet of hare (see HARE). Prepared like Civet ofhare (see HARE). Cutlets (U.S.A. chops) of marcassin (young wild boar). Cutlets (U.S.A. cbops) ofprepared,like-Cuttits marcassin (young wild boar). cdTELETTEs DE MARcAssrN (chops) of CÔTELETTES DE MARCASSIN -- Prepared like Cutlets (chops) of roebuck or of pork. (See ROEBUCK and PORK.) roebuck or of pork. (See ROEBUCK and PORK.) Wild boar ham. l,c,runoN DE sANGLmn - This is cured and Wild boar barn. JAMBON DE SANGLiER - This is cured and cooked in exactly the same way as pork ham (see HAM) and cooked in exactly the same way as pork ham (see HAM) and can be eaten cooked or raw. It is garnished with a vegeiable can be eaten cooked or raw. It is garni shed with a vegetable pur6e, usually chestnut. purée, usually chestnut. Wild boar ham, sweet-sour. JAMBoN DE sANcLrER.d r'xcReJAMBON DE SANGLiER A' L'AIGREWild boar barn, sweet-sour. DoucE Braise the ham, in the same way as pork ham (see DOUCE -- Braise the ham, in the sa me way as pork ham (see HAM). When it is cooked drain it, poui over aa few iew HAM). When it is cooked drain it, pour over tablespoons of the strained braising juiles, sprinkle with tablespoons of the strained braising juices, sprinkle with sugar and glazein the oven. oyen, sugar and glaze in the Finish off the braising juices like a Romaine sauce (see Finish off the braising juices like a Romaine sauce (see SAUCE). Add to this sauce 12 prunes soaked in water and SAUCE). Add to this sauce 12 prunes soaked in water and stoned, and 24 cherries pickled in vinegar. Add a little stoned, and 24 cherries pickled in vinegar. Add a !ittle chocolate dissolved in water. Serve the ham with the sauce, chocolate dissolved in water. Serve the ham with the sauce, accompanied by a garnish. accompanied by a garnish. This way of preparing wild boar is popular in the north of _ This way of preparing wild boar is popular in the north of Europe. Europe. lVild boar ha m, sweet-sout sweet-souf ài l'italienne. I'italienne. JAMBON JAMBoN DE DE Wild boar ham, SANcLIER, A t'.clcRE-DoucE, A L'TTaLIENNE _ Made like the SANGLiER, À L'AIGRE-DOUCE, À L'ITALiENNE - Made like the preceding recipe, but add to the sauce pine kernels, citron peel preceding recipe, but add to the sauce pine kernels, citron peel and chopped candied orange. and chopped candied orange. Boar's head. nune DE sANcLTER - The cooking of boar's Boar's bead. HURE DE SANGLiER - The cooking of boar's head, which is a very large dish, involves many different head, which is a very large dish, involves many different ingredients. The actual boar's head is the most insignificant ingredients. The actual boar's head is the most insignificant part of this p-reparation, because apart from the tongue and a part ofthis preparation, because apart from the tongue and a few pieces of lean flesh which are tiken offthe skull. this cold few pieces of lean flesh which are taken off the skull, this cold dish uses only the cutaneous parts covering the animal's head. dish uses only the cutaneous parts covering the animal's head. For a head of about 5 kg. (l I lb.) when cooked: af kg. (10 For a head of about 5 kg. (Il lb.) when cooked: 4t kg. (l0 l\.) pork lb.) ltne Fine pork forcemeat forcemeat (see (see FORCEMEAT), FORCEMEAT), I1 tg. kg. tZl (2i- rt.l lb.) chicken meat boned and trimmed, 750 g. (l| lb.) cooked l.an chicken meat boned and trimmed, 750 g. (l-!- lb.) cooked lean l*, and pickled pickled in in ham, 44 fresh fresh pork pork tongues tongues heated, heated, skinned skinned and brine, 500 g. (l lb.) scarlet tongue, 500 g. (l lb.) fat bacon, 400 brine, 500 g. (lIb.) scarlet tongue, 500 g. (lIb.) fat bacon, 400 (14 peeled oz.) 9.. g. (14 oz.) peeled truffies, truffies, 125 125 g. g. (4 (4 oz., oz., I1 cup) cup) blanched blanched pistachios. pistachios. Singe and scrape the head carefully, and bone it comSinge and scrape the head carefully, and bone it completely, taking care not to tear the skin. Cut off the ears pletely, taking care not to tear the skin. Cut off the ears (which must be cooked separately), take out the tongue and (which must be cooked separately), take out the tongue and remove the small fleshy pieces from next to the skin. remove the small fleshy pieces from next to the skin. Trim Trim these these pieces pieces of oflean lean flesh flesh and and cut cut them them into into dice. dice. put Put them together with the tongue and the skin of the head to them together with the tongue and the skin of the head to marinate for 10 hours with carrots, chopped onions, thyme, marinate for 10 hours with carrots, chopped onions, thyme, bay leaf, salt, pepper and spices. bay leaf, salt, pepper and spices. Prepare a salpicon by cutting into dice the wild boar's Prepare a salpicon by cutting into dice the wild boar's tglg-ue, the cooked pork tongues, the scarlet tongue, ham, tongue, the cooked pork tongues, the scarlet tongue, ham, chicken and bacon. Add the trumes cut into largJ dice, the chic ken and bacon. Add the truffies cut into large dice, the pistachio nuts and the pieces of lean meat taken from the pistachio nuts and the pieces of lean meat taken from the head of the boar. Marinate for 2 hours with brandy, salt, head of the boar. Marinate for 2 ho urs with brandy, salt, pepper and spices. pepper and spices. Add Addtoto this thissalpicon salpiconthe thefine finepork porkforcemeat forcemeatand and44whole whoIe eggs. Mix all well together. eggs. Mix ail weil together. 982 982

Boar's head, head, after after Carême Car6me Boar's

Spread the the skin skin from from the the boar's boar's head, head. the the outside Spread outside downdownwards on on aa cloth cloth that that has has been been soaked soaked in in cold cold water wards water and and wrung out. out. Put Put the above above mixture in the the middle. middle. Fold wrung Fold the skin skin over the the mixture, mixture, and and wrap wrap itit completely over completely in in the the cloth, cloth, reshaping it it in its original original fonn. form. Tie Tie up firmly. firmly. shaping jelly stock Cook in in aa jelly (see JELL stock (see JELLY), Cook Y), using the the bones and and trimmings of of the the boar's boar's head head as well as as weil trimmings as the the carcase carcase and and trimmings of the chicken. Cook gently gently for 4t trimmings of the chicken. 4| hours. One hour before When cooked, drain. Leave before it it is is ready, ready, put in the ears. When to stand for untie il. it. Wash the to stand for 30 minutes, then untie the cloth and wring wring itit out out well weil to remove rem ove the moisture. Roll the head in the cloth_ cloth again, again, securing securing it firmly finnly with string, taking taking care to keep the shape; shape; begin begin tying at the snout end. end. Leave Leave to cool for a1 at least least 12 12 hours. Untie Untie the the head head and and wipe it carefully. carefully. Skewer ears, Skewer the two ears, coated brown Chaud-froid coated with with aa layer layer of ofbrown Chaud-froid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SA UCE) or or dissolved dissolved meat meat jelly, jelly, in in their their places. places. Coat Coat the the whole whoIe of of the the boar's boar's head, head, placed placed on on aa grid grid or or rack, rack, with with the the same sa me sauce sauce or yrth with pe-1t meat jelly, jelly, and and put put back back the the tusks tusks in their place. place. Using Using hard hard boiled boiled egg egg white white and and truffies, truffies, make make the the eyes. eyes. Decorate Decorate wth with Montpellier Montpellier butter butter (see (see BUTTER, BUTTER, ComCompound or with with cut-out cut-out egg egg white, white, trufres truffies and and pound butters) butters) or blanched blanched pistachios. pistachios. Glaze with with jelly. jelly. Chill Chill before before serving. serving. Instss6 of being being set set on on aa platter platter the the head head may may be be put put on on aa ^ Instead of foundation foundation of ofshaped shaped rice, rice, and and truffies truffies skewered skewered to to it. il. In In home home cooking,cooking, and and even even in in grande grande cuisine, cuisine, the the boar,s boar's head head isis most most often often covered, covered, when when quite quite cold, cold, with with aa thick thick layer of golden golden breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, the the ears ears cut cut up up in in aa salpicon salpicon layer of before being being cooked cooked and and added added to to the the othir other ingredients. ingredients. !_9fore When kind of of galantine galantine or or roll roll of of When thus thus served, served, the the head head isis aa kind boar's boar'shead. head. Loin marcassin(young (youngwild wildboar). boar).cARRdDE CARRÉ DE MARcAssrN MARCASSINLoinofofmarcassin Cooked Cookedwhole wholelike likethe theLoin Loinofofroebuck (seeROEBUCK), ROEBUCK), but but roebuck (see more more often often divided divided into into cutlets cutlets (chops) (chops) which which are are prepared prepared like likethose thoseofofroebuck roebuckor orpork. pork. Scaltoped ESCALOPES DE DE ScaUoped marcassin marcassin (young (young wild wild boar). boar). EscALopEs

WINE WINE partly removed region region and and the the growth growth the the fruit fruit may may next next be be partly removed wine than from from the the stalks. stalks. This This isis more more usual usual in in making making white white wine than grapes are red. red, and and isis also also done done when wh en the the must must is is acid acid or or the the grapes are over-ripe. over-ripe. The The ikins skins of of the the grapes gra pes are are then th en burst burst by by crushing. crushing. Grapes Grapes used used to to be be treaded, treaded, but but nowadays nowadays crushing crushing is is a a mechanical mechanical are wine white of manufacture process. process. The The grapes grapes used used in in the the manufacture ofwhite wine are not not burst burst beforabeing before being pressed, pressed, nor nor are are all ail the the grapes grapes used used in in the the manufacture manufacture of of red red wines wines;; sometimes sometimes they they have have to to remain remain whole, who le, e.g. e.g. in in the the case case of of carbonic carbonic maceration. maceration. once wine, once of red wine, ot the Cuvaison Cuvaison or orfermentation. FFor the making making ofred vats, huge vats, the the grape grape harvest harvest has has been been crushed cru shed it it is is put put into into huge cement brick' stone, (for wines), fine wood of which are made which are made ofwood (for fine wines), stone, brick, cement in countries in in hotter hotter countries and in (sometimes silicate), and (sometimes coated coated with with silicate), increasingly It is also becoming enamelled enamelled or or japanned japanned iron. iron. It is also becoming increasingly steel in stainless stainless steel fermented in common common for for vintage vintage wines wines to to be be fermented great to aa great depends to fermentation depends of the vats. The success success of the fermentation vats. The in cold cold so that that in temperature, so on the surrounding temperature, extent on extent the surrounding heated, be heated, must be cellars the ce and the thick and vats must must be districts be thick Il ars must districts the the vats are which are vats, whicb thin-walled vats, Tunisia, thin-walled and Tunisia, in Algeria Algeria and whereas whereas in wet in wet wrapped in being wrapped by being are cooled by good heat and arecooled conductors and good heatconductors are used. used. cloths, are cloths, of of fungi of action offungi due to to the the action is due Fermentation is Fermentation. Fermentation Fermentation. (the average average in size size (the small in vety smalt the species species Saccharomyces, very the on found on These are are found mm.). These of aa mm.). thousandths of is 55 to to 66 thousandths diameter is diameter can they can where they soil, where persist in in the the soil, and persist skins and of the the skins the surface surface of the (25'F.) they become they become At -4°C. cold. At intense cold. resist the most intense the most resist -4'C. (25°F.) first the first with the vitality with their vitality recover their but recover and inactive, inactive, but torpid and torpid them SacSacamong them types, among different types, are of of different Yeasts are warmth. Yeasts warmth. most the most ellipsoidrs, the and ellipsoidus, pastorianus and apiculatus, pastorianus charomyces apiculatus, charomyces when the the bunches, when the bunches, on the later on appears later which appears all, which active of of ail, active provide aa barley barley they provide must, they on barley barley must, fruit isis ripe. ripe. Cultivated Cultivated on fruit Each Gauls. Each of the the Gauls. cervisia of been the the cervisia have been wine which whiih would would have wine agent. fermenting agent. growth h~s its individual individual fermenting hps its growth with fermentation with must to to fermentation sterilised must By submitting submitting aa sterilised By Champagne, itit isis or Champagne, Burgundy or from Médoc, M6doc, Burgundy leavens coming coming from leavens which the the from which thosefrom resemble those which resembJe possible to wines which obtain wines to obtain possible quality. quiteequalling their quality. equalling their everquite without ever ieauen originated, originated, without leaven the conditions, the place in in thebest the bestconditions, take place to take fermentation to For fermentation For l8'C' below18°C. drop below not drop should not cellarsshould of the the cellars temperature of temperature rise norshould should ititrise slow, nor betoo tooslow, (64'F.) or will be fermentation will thefermentation or the (64°F.) the excessive, toto the become excessive, (95"F.) or will become or itit will above 35°C. 35'C. (95°F.) above losesaa therebyloses whichthereby wine, which quality of of the the wine, detriment of of the the quality detriment for temperaturefor Thebest besttemperature products. The part of its volatile volatile products. ofits large part large C (77"F.). 25'C. (77 winesisis25°C. fine wines fine F). the duetoto the placespontaneously, spontaneously,due Fermentation takes takesplace Fermentation are leavensare selected Jeavens grapes.Sometimes Sometimes selected thegrapes. leavening agent agentininthe leavenjng temperahighertemperaadaptedtotohigher leavensadapted hotcountry, country,leavens Inaahot used. In used. has grapeharvest harvesthas yieldof thegrape ofalcohol. alcohol.IfIfthe betteryield obtain aabetter turesobtain tures the intothe yeastisisintroduced introducedioto fullyactive activeyeast byrain, rain,aafully soakedby beensoaked been ferments. of harmful ferments. preventthe developmentofharmful thedevelopment willprevent vatwhich whichwill vat yeastfrom fromthe the usea ayeast casetotouse lattercase thelatter alwaysadvisable advisable ininthe ItItisisalways neighimmediate fromitsitsimmedia harvestororfrom theharvest same district district asasthe same te neighfull whichisisininfull preparedwhich fermentisisprepared fromthis thisaaferment bourhood; bourhood; from vat. putinto thevat. intothe thetime timeititisisput activity activityatatthe (grapesugar), and sugar),and glucose(grape theglucose downthe Theferment fermentbreaks breaksdown The gaswhich whichis-iscarbonicgas thecarboruc fermentation the fromthe thebeginning beginningofoffermentation from the chapeau,totothe grapes'leIechapeau, partsofofthe thegrapes, freedraises raisesthe solidparts thesolid freed allowedtoto mostactive. active.IfIfititisisaUowed whichfermentation fermentation isismost Jevel levelatatwhich evaporates marcevaporates themarc distributed,the processisisunevenly unevenlydistributed, float,the fioat, theprocess with contactwith oncontact surfaceon onthe thesurface Jess developon fermentsdevelop lessand andacid aiidferments and sprinklingand preventedbybysprinkling areprevented the difficultiesare Thesedifficulties theair. air.These some carryingwiwith riskytask, task,carrying pressing 'ha t', a arisky th it itsorne pressingback the'hat', backthe preferfermenfermensometimesprefer danger Wine-growerssometimes asphyxia.Wine-growers dangerofofasphyxia. down keepingit itdown sourmergd,keeping tation outd dchapeau chapeausourmergé, carriedout tationtatobebecarried racks. of wickerracks. ininthe aidofwicker withthe theaid themust mustwith calmer' becomescalmer. quiteviolent, laterbecomes violent,later Fermentation, firstquite Fermentation,atatfirst when ddcuvage,wh forthe thecJecuvage, chosenfor This en generallythe momentchosen themoment Thisisisgenerally

AU the the recipes recipes given given for for Scalloped Scalloped roebuck roebuck or' or' - All Noisettes Noisettes of ofroebuck roebuck are are applicable applicable to to young young wild wild boar. boar. (See (See

MARCASSIN MARCASSIN -

ROEBUCK.) ROEBUCK,)

WILD WILD CHICORY. CHICORY. BARBE BARBE DE DE cAPUcIN CAPUCIN -- Variety Variety of of wild wild chicory blanched blanched by by being being grown grown in in aa dark dark place. place. It It has has aa chicory slight bitterness bitterness which which isis not not unpleasant. unpleasant. slight Wild Wild chicory chicory is is greatly greatly valued valued as as aa salad, salad, because because it it isis alwaystender. tender. ItItcan canbe beprepared prepared like Jike chicory, chicory, and and can can also also be be always cut into into chunks chunks and and pickled pickled in in vinegar vinegar like like gherkins. gherkins. cut wild chicory The The slightly slightly purgative purgative tisane tisane of ofwild chicory isis excellent excellent for for regulating the the circulation. circulation. Eaten Eaten raw raw in in salad, salad, it it helps helps to to regulating prevent prevent constipation constipation in in sufferers sufferers from from hepatitis. hepatitis.

WILD THYME. THYME. sERPoLET SERPOLET -- Labiate-flowered Labiate-fiowered plant, plant, scented WILD and aromatic, aromatic, used used as as condiment condiment and and for infusions. infusions. and

WILLIAM -- Variety Variety of of eating eating pear pear that that is very juicy juicy and WILLIAM sweet-fiavoured. It It ripens ripens in in September' September. A well weil known spirit sweet-flavoured. made from from this this variety variety of of pear. pear. is made is

Old Médoc vines

'the WINE. wine isis'the definition, wine legal definition, to the the 1egal vIN -- Açcording AQcording to WINE. VIN

product men tation offresh grapes ordried driedgrapes of fresh or fermentation product of of the alcoholic fer the alcoholic or juice of fresh grapes.' grapes.' or the offresh thejuice The region toto from region little from variesaa little which varies The making wine, which of wine, making of region, times. ancient times. region, was was done differently inin ancient done differently The trays wicker trays on wicker grapes in sunon in the thesun The Greeks Greeks dried dried the the grapes which falling prevent the dewfalling thedew to prevent evening to were brought each evening ineach which were brought in on heavy. andheavy. wasstrong strong and wine that thatwas make wine They tried tried to to make on them. them. They The veryconcentrated, concentrated, bevery wines to tobe liked their their wines The Romans, Romans, too, too, liked exposing wasalways always winewas This wine amphorae. This heatininamphorae. exposing them them to to the theheat mixed mealtimes. withwater water at atmealtimes. mixed with Vinification conprocesses involved involved ininconvarious processes The various Vinification -- The temporary below. aredescribed described below. wine-making are temporary wine-making Vendange grapesare are thegrapes whichthe Thedate dateatatwhich harvest.The Vendange or orharvest. picked and temperatureand region, the thetemperature picked varies theregion, variesaccording according totothe local thering thegagathering vendangethe bande devendange localcustom. Where there thereisisaaban custom.Where must givendate. date. before aagiven notbe bedone donebefore must not The must, themust, densityofofthe placewhen whenthe thedensity grape harvest takesplace Thegrape harvest takes taken stationary,soso foundtotobebestationary, of bunches,isisfound numberofbunches, fromaanumber takenfrom that on gainfrom remainingon fromremaining moretotogain grapehas nothing more hasnothing thegrape thatthe the plant. As far as possible a spell of fine dry weather weatherisis dry fine of possible a spell plant. far as As the chosen forharvesting. harvesting. chosenfor Égrappage the Accordingtotothe stalks.According thestalks. removalfrom Egrappage ororremoval fromthe 983 983

WINE WINE

The ma king of of Burgundy Burgundy wine aboul 1470, as an old LapesLry The making about 1470. as represenled represented on on an old tapestry

the the wine wine is is drawn drawn off off from from the the vats. vats. The length length of time the the wine variable; aa short short period period gives gjves finer, tiner, wine stays stays in in the the vats vats is is variable; more more delicately delicately flavoured flavoured wines, wines, richer richer in in alcohol, alcohoJ, less less acid acid and and paler palerin in colour; colour; aa prolonged prolonged period period in in the the vats vats gives gives wines wines that that are are more more robust, robust, stronger stronger and and darker darker in in colour. This This period period lasts lasts from from l0 10 to to 15 15 days days in in the the M6doc, Médoc, 44 to to g8 days days in in Burgundy Burgundy and and less lessin in Algeria. Aigeria. Ddcuvage. Décuvage. This This has has the the effect effect of of separating separating the the fermented fermented wine marc; aa tap tap placed placed at at the thebase base of ofthe the vat vat allows allows winefrom from the themarc; the bedrawn drawnoff. off. This Thisisiscalled called the the vin vinde degoutte goutte or or thefirst firstwine winetotobe pied pieddu ducuve, cuve, the thebottom bottom of ofthe thevat. vat. Pressurage Pressurageororpressing. pressing.The Thesolid solidresidue residueknown knownas as marc marc (if (if no growthisistotobe bemade) made)isisthen thenput putunder under the the nowine wineofofsecond second growth press pressand andsubmitted submittedtotomoderate moderatepressure. pressure. The Thevin vinde depresse presseisis always
Vinification (of white wine). wine). White wine can be made of Vinification (of white White wine can be made of white or or red red grapes, grapes, with with the the exception a few vines whose white exception of of a few vines whose is coloured. coloured. These These varieties varieties are calJed teinturiers. The juice is are called teinturiers. The grapes are are taken taken as as quickly quickly as possible possible to the press, without grapes as to the press, without previous crushing and the juice alone is set to ferment. The previous crushing and the juice alone is set to ferment. The operation of 'débourbage' commonly used vins ordinaires operation of 'ddbourbage' commonly used for for vins ordinaires is strictly forbidden for fine wines. The object of this is strictly forbidden for fine wines. The object of this deoourbage is is to to eliminate eliminate the bulk of impurities from the ddbourbage the bulk of impurities from the must; this is done either by drawing off the clear must or by must; this is done either by drawing off the clear must or by adding massive massive doses of sulphur dioxide. This operation has adding doses of sulphur dioxide. This operation hai the effect of arresting fermentation which must then be the eflect of arresting fermentation which must then be quickly restarted. restarted. quickly The fermentation fermentation of fine wines has to be carried out at a The of fine wines has to be carried out at a temperature, 15° to 20°e. (59. (59° to 68°F.), in oak vats or in lowtemperature, low l5o to 20'C. to 68"F.). in oak vats in After its fermentation the wine mustorrest glass-lined tanks. glass-lined tanks. After its fermentation the wine must rest longtime time until the lees drop to the bottom. This ensures for aalong for until the lees drop to the bottom. This ensures thatthe thewine winedrawn drawn off will be cIear. that offwill be clear. Subsequent operations - On removal from the vats, the Subsequent operations - On removal from the vats, the drawn off into casks where malo-Iactic fermentation wine is wine is drawn off into casks where malo-lactic fermentation takesplace. place. Repeated Repeated ullaging is necessary to ensure that the takes ullaging is necessary to ensure that the arealways always full. casksare casks full. Soutirages or drawings off. Drawing-off has the effect of Soutirages or drawings off. Drawing-off has the effect of

984 984 Choosing the right wine is the prerequisiLe to a perreet meal Choosing the right wine is the prerequisite perfect to a Phot. meal (La tour cf argent. Nicolas) (La tour d argent. phot. Nicolas\

WINE WINE remedy pasteurisation which which isis sometimes sometimes carried carried out out to to remedy maladies of the wine will be considered maladies considered later. later. Fortification, where French French wines wines are Fortification, where are concerned, concerned, isis aa matter of adding alcohol wines which alcohol to wines which are are too deficient deficient in in itit to keep keep weB, to well, thereby raising the thereby raising the content content by by one one or or two two degrees at degrees at the most. This the most. This addition addition of of alcohol alcohol isis legally legally forbidden for wines destined to be consumed forbidden consumed in in France France and and is is strictly strictly limited to wines for export. Other practices have Other practices have more more relation relation to chemistry than to chemistry than genuine wine-making. thorised under Chaptalisation. This practice, au This practice, authorised certain under certain conditions, conditions, consists of of enriching must deficieni deficient in saccharose, saccharose, and has the and has the effect effect of raising raising the the alcoholic alcoholic strength strength of of the the finished product. The finished product. process takes place during The process takes place during fermenfermentation. For tation. For the the amount amount of of must must contained in aa 228-litre 228-litre contained in Burgundy barrel, or aa22i-litre 225-litre Bordeaux barrel, the addition Burgundy addition of 44 kg. (9 lb.) kg. (9 lb.) sugar sugar is is equivaJent increase of equivalent to to an an increase of one one alcoholic degree. generally used. is generally degree. White White crystailised crystallised sugar is Chaptalisation the re-establish the Chaptalisation must be employed employed only to to re-establish biological balance balance of a weak vintage. It should never be used biological artificially artificially to wellto increase increase the strength of of aa wellthe alcoholic alcoholic strength balanced wine. The taxing of wine according to its balanced its alcoholic strength has had had the unfortunate effect effect of encouraging encouraging the the vine growers growers to chaptalise vine practice has hai led to chaptalise excessively; this practice of public public taste to wine of a shifting shifting of strength. of high alcoholic strength. Plâtrage or plastering. This was formerly done, Pldtrage done, chiefly in in Mediterranean region, to the Mediterranean and add add to augment the acidity and brilliance to the the colour. colour. The practice has brilliance in has fallen into disuse disuse in France. France. Phosphatage (addition phosphate of (addition of Phosphatage This has of lime). lime). This has of phosphate same effect plâtrage, but does much the same does not improve improve the the as pldtrage, effect as colour. Tanisage or with tannin. tannin. This This corrects corrects lack lack of of or treatment with tannin is purpose, usually astringency. Alcohol tannin is used used for for this purpose, to 88 g. hectolitre. in 'the proportion of g. per hectolitre. inihe of 44 to Salage, Also Aiso aa very ancient ancient practice, known Salage. known to the ancient to the ancient Greeks, who added sea is sea water to wines. Usually Usually salt salt is to their their wines. added (up (up to to I1 g. g. per per litre litre is is permitted) permitted) to added augment the the extract to augment and perhaps perhaps to to cloak cloak some sorne adulteration and such as as fortification fortification adulteration such watering-down. or watering-down. Shellisage or or addition addition of of glycerine. glycerine. This Shellisage This makes makes the the wine smooth, gives gives it it body, body, improves improves its qualities and smooth, its keeping keeping qualities and above all, ail, increases increases the the proportion of of extract. extract. The above The addition addition of of is forbidden forbidden by by law, law, and can easily be detected glycerine is detected by and can by easily be the expert. expert. the The use use of of sulphur, sulphur, in in the the form form of sulphuric acid, The of sulphuric acid, obtained obtained by burning burning sulphurated sulphurated wicks wicks or or by by adding by adding alkaline alkaline bisulbisulis recommended recommended by by ail oenologists as preventative phates, is phates, all oenologists as aa preventative against the the maladies maladies of of the the wine. wine. Part Part of of the the sulphuric sulphuric acid against acid is is eliminated by by the the soutirage soutirage or or drawing drawing off. off. eliminated These chemical chemical processes, processes, which which remove remove wine wine somewhat These somewhat from its its legal legal definition, definition, present present many many disadvantages, from disadvantages, esespecially when when several several of of them them are are done done simultaneously, pecially simultaneously, and and they may may be be dangerous dangerous to to the the consumer. consumer. they Among the the processes'ivhich processes which are are plainly plainly fraudulent fraudulent are the Among are the use of of saccharine, saccharine, dulcine, dulcine, antiseptics antiseptics and and of of mineral, minerai, use and organic organic colouring colouring matter. matter. vegetable and vegetable Ageing of of wine wine - This This takes takes place place naturally naturally by by the the wine Ageing wine or more more being left left to to rest, rest, in in cask, cask, side side bung, bung, for for one, one, two two or being years, according according to to the the nature nature ofthe of the wine, wine, but but can can be be induced induced years, artificially by by agitation, agitation, by by heating, heating, by by refrigeration, refrigeration, and and by by artificially the use use of of electrical electrical impulses. impulses, These These can can never never replace replace the the the effect of ofnatural ageing. effect natural ageing. Fine wines wines are are subsequently subsequently put put into into bottles, bottles, which which has has the the Fine effect of of slowing slowing down down the the processes processes resulting resulting from from oxideffect oxidization and and etherification. etherification, These These develop develop the the bouquet, bouquet, and ization and allow the the wine wine to to acquire acquire what what is is called called 'bottle 'bottle age'. age'. allow Wines of second and third pressing Obtained by adding Wines of second and third pressing - Obtained by adding

An An old old wine wine press press

decanting wines wines from from lees. lees. The firstsoutirage first soutirage takes place place two decanting to four four weeks weeks after the the ddcuvage, décuvage, the drawing-off from the to vats. The The second second is is in in January January in the the South of of France and and in vats. March and and April April in in colder colder parts parts of of France. France. March The part part played played by by the the yeasts, though they have by now The become become much much less less active, is not yet finished, finished. After fermentation they they develop develop the the taste-producing taste-producing elements, elements, provided provided tation that air air isis excluded; excluded; this this isis why why ullage ullage isis carried carried out ou t in the first that place and the the barrels barrels afterwards afterwards placed'side placed 'side bung' bung' or bonde bonde place and sur Ie le cdtd. c6té. sur Filtering and and clarifying. clari/ying. Before Before being being released released for for conFiltering sumption the the wine wine is is filtered filtered and clarified to give it greater greater sumption limpidity. Different Different substances substances are used used for this, which, by limpidity. coagulating on on contact contact with with tannin, tannin, form form a kind of screen screen coagulating which entraps entraps and and deposits deposits the the particles particles in in suspension. suspension. which or dried dried albumen albumen isis used used for for vlhs vins ordinaires As aa rule rule gelatine gelatine or As (10 15 g. g. per per hectolitre), hectolitre), fresh fresh egg egg whites whites for for fine fine wines wines (2 (2 or (10 to to 15 per hectolitre), hectolitre), and and isinglass isinglass for for white white wines wines (10 (lOto 15 g. per 33 per to l5 hectolitre dissolved dissolved in in 22 to to 33 litres litres water along with with 2 g. g. hectolitre tartaric acid). acid). tartaric The techniqte technique of ofcollage, collage, which which isis often often practised practised as as part part of The the treatment treatment given given to to wine wine after after itit has has arrived arrived in in the the cellar, cellar, is is the described below. below. described Other operations operations are are sometimes sometimes carried carried out, out, such such as as Other and 60oC. 60°C. (140"F.), (l40°F.), pasteurisation -heating - heating to to 55"C. 55°C. (l3l"F.) (131°F.) and pasteurisation with air air excluded, excluded, the the presence presence of of air air giving giving wine wine aa 'cooked' 'cooked' with taste at at 35'C. 35°C. (95"F.), (95°F.), to to assure assure that that the the wine wine will will keep. keep. This This is is taste chiefly done done after after blending blending to to amalgamate amalgamate the the mixture. mixture. The The chiefly

Wine presses presses Wine (Remy Mariln) Martin) (Remy

985 985 Birdsfor forthe thetable: table:chicken, chicken. guinea guinea fowl, fowl, pigeon pigeon and duck Birds and duck (Le veillé-Delaunay.Phot. Phal. Nicolas\ Nicolas) (I*vetll6-Delaunay.

WINE

burgundian fermenting fermenting room A burgundian

Cement valS vats for wine wine slorage Cemenl storage (Demay jrères) frires)

(50 kg. per hectolitre) sugared water water to kg. per sugared marc (50 hectolitre) and to the the marc fermenting this anew. These wines al ways have less extract, always cream of tartar and tannin, cream provide aa healthy tannin, but they still provide drink which drink which is is worth about two-thirds as as much as as natural wine. Piquettes -- Made from the fermentation fermentation of of marcs to which Piquettes unsweetened water alcohol and water has been added. Very poor in a\cohol consumption and extract, they are normally used for home consumption for blending with wines of of second and third pressings. Wine from from dried fruit -- Raisins are used after Wine dried fruit are generally used having in warm warm water. water. The The resulting resulting wines, having been been cooked in presence of 0'7 per cent always al ways white, are characterised characterised by the presence of 0·7 to 1I per cent levogyrous sugar to no trace in sugar of which there is no natural wine. They are mostly mostly used for blending. wines-- See SPARKLING. Sparkling wines SPARKLING. Sparkling sweeter or richer liqueur wines wines -- Wines which are sweeter Luxury Luxury or liqueur in alcohol than those in current current consumption. consumption. The following varieties are distinguished: distinguished : varieties alcohol mutds or mistelles. Obtained by adding a\cohol Vins doux mutés fermented must immediately extraction. to partly fermented immediately after its extraction. addition of of a\cohol alcohol semi-mutds. Obtained by the addition Vins doux semi-mutés. partly fermented fermented must so as to obtain about 15°. 15". to partly Vins doux passerillds. passerillés. Obtained from musts with aa strong sugar content and from raisins dried on the plant, in the sun 15' to 15 or in ovens. The must is such as to give aa wine of 13' 13° to alcoholic content without without the addition alcohol. Part of of the a\coholic addition of of a\cohol. decomposed. sugar should remain, not decomposed. Wines muted by This is is done by the the addition addition of alcohol. alcohol. This Wines immediately after fermentation fermentation while still containing much immediately after sugar (port). fermentation, like sherry. Dry wines. Fortified after fermentation, Wines with a dry wine base. Blended to give them smoothWines Dase. Blended (Madeira, Marsala). ness (Madeira, wines. The Cooked wines. The cooking of the Cooked the must augmenting the concentration and transforming caramel sugar concentration transforming it partly into caramel (Malaga). (Malaga). Maladies of wines -- A liquid which is essentially of wiues Maladies essentially alive, wine is subject subject to various maladies. maladies. Fleurs Small whitish whitish efflorescences develop on Fleurs de vrn. vin. Small effiorescences which develop wines deficient deficient in a\cohol alcohol on contact with the air when ullage is neglected: The neglected: these are due to a fungus, Mycoderma Mycodcrma vini. The are often the first stage of of acescence, which can be fleurs du vin are checked at at the the outset bv by the checked the addition of chalk chalk or or neutral

g.per tartrate ofpotassium of potassium (3 to 7 g. tartrate per g. of of acetic acid). When When it is thing to do is to turn the wine vinegar. marked, the only thing wine into vinegar. Amertume. Literally 'bitterness', manifests itself Amertume. Literally itself chiefly in Burgundies and is due which decomposes the due to to aa ferment which glycerine in wines which have been kept too long in barrels, and in in alcohol. alcohol. It It can be and in wines wines deficient in be treated, when and' taken ta ken in the early stages, by adding tannin, tartaric acid and of dispersing dispersinEamertume alcohol. A simple means of amertume is to mix the younger wine. affected wine wine with A wine wine which which has affected with aa younger wine. A can re-establish contracted the taste of amertume re-establish amertume in in bottles can itself if the bottles are well itself in a short time weil corked, and stacked stacked time if It is on their sides in cellar. It carefully on their sides in aa properly arranged cellar. possible to decant the into aa perfectly clean, wellpossible bottles into perfectly c\ean, to decant the bottles fumigated cask, add younger wine and clarify. regularly, Acescence. have not Acescence. When casks have not been ullaged regularly, quickly attacked This is is aa very the wine is attacked by is quickly by acescence. the wine acescence. This which turns into common malady due due to an ace acetic tic ferment which to an vinegar. This This ferment develops vinegar. mostly in barrels barrels which have a develops mostly vidange, that is to say aa gap between the upper part and the quality wines, though it prinwine itself, and can attack good qua\ity cipally attacks attacks weak wines whenever whenever they cipally they are exposed to heat. Development Development of the ferment is prevented by by drawing-off time, side bung, keeping the barrels the wine and by keeping barrels full a1\ all the time, possible is allowed to penetrate. penetra te. so that as little air as possible piqui, or pricked, when it is attacked A wine wine is piqué, attacked by an acetic It isis very very difficult to wine. Several to save pricked wine. ferment. It save aa pricked methods Neutral tartrate of potassium methods are advocated. potassium lessens advocated. Neutral tartrate of wine so treated little but the wine treated must the vinegary taste a \ittle must be used immediately. immediately. Pasteurisation. The The sure surest an appreciable Pasteurisation. st way to to achieve an of a spoiled wine. Heated Heated by means of result is to pasteurise pasteurise the spoiled pasteuriser, the wine is freed from ail pasteuriser, all the ferment-producing ferment-producing germs which spoil its keeping keeping qualities. There are numerous pasteurisers operated of pasteurisers operated by steam, hot air or gas. types of pasteurised must The wine to to be must be clarified and drawn drawn The be pasteurised be c\arified off and limpidity. To save time the wine can and have perfect limpidity. can be filtered, then heated heated to 60" to maximum temperature of 60° filtered, then to aa maximum (l40 to pasteurised wine should be 72"C. (\40° l6l'F.). The pasteurised to 161°F.). n°c. be put perfectly c\ean into clean and and strongly strongly fumigated fumigated barrels which into perfectly should then be set in a very operation, done very c\ean clean place. This operation, satisfactory results. with care, has satisfactory Pasteurisation can can be are placed be done in bottles. bottles. These are done in double-bottomed heater which is filled up to the upright in a double-bottomed

986

WINE WINE floating floating on on the the top top may may be be expelled by by introducing introducing aa certain certain wine through amount amountof ofwine through aa tube. This This takes takes the the place placeof ofthe the oil, oil,

necks necks of ofthe thebottles. bottles. One, One, used used for for testing, testing, isis filled filled with with water water

and and provided provided with with a a thermometer thermometer to to show show the the rise rise in in temperature and and the the correct correct moment moment to to remove remove from from the the temperature

which which isis expelled through through the the bung-hole. bung-hole. When a bottled wine Whena wine contracts con tracts aa corked corked taste taste (gofit (goût de de bouchon\,it bouchon), it can can be be treated treated in in the the same same way, way, but but this this happens happens rarely rarely on on important important scale. scale. The The corked corked taste taste isis usually usually found found in in one one or or two two bottles bottles only only and and itit isis better better to to sacrifice sacrifice them' them. Casse. Casse. Under Under the the name name casse casse three three sorts sorts of of malady malady are are known. known. Casse Casse brune, brune, which which may may be be observed observed on on red red and and white white wines, due to to oxidization oxidization and and insolubility insolubility of of the the colouring colouring wines, is is due an oxide. matter matter under under the the influence influence of ofan oxide. ItIt isis seen seen in in wines wines whose whose fermentation fennentation has has been been slowed slowed down down by by too too high high aa temperature tem perature or or made made with with grapes grapes attacked attacked by pourriture grise (grey rot)' rot). .to the Exposed Exposedto the air air the the wine wine becomes cloudy, forms aa then first insipid a taste considerable considerable deposit deposit and and develops develops a taste first insipid th en bitter. the outset, bitter. At A tthe outset, casse casse brune brune can can be be treated treated with with tannin tannin (4 (4 to to l0 10 g. g. per hectolitre), hectolitre), followed followed by by drawing drawing off off into into aa well well fumigated lurmg:att~d cask, cask, or or adding adding bisulphate. bisulphate. It lt is is then then clarified clarified and and pasteurised. pasteurised. Wine Wine may may develop develop casse casse as as a a result result of of a a considerable considerable journey. If it is change of temperature, tennpt~ratUl'e or or aa long longjourney.lfit is aa robust robust wine wine it will right itself after aa few few days. days. and white which attacks or casse Casse Casse bleue or casse ferrique ferrique which attacks white and red red wines wines is is due due to to an an excess excess of of iron iron salts salts in in the the wine wine (the (the grapes grapes contact with earth or having having been been tainted tainted with with ferruginous ferruginous earth or contact with The iron or receptacles). iron iron instruments instruments or receptacles). The iron salts salts combine combine with with are oxidisation, are which, by tannin tannin to to form form ferrous ferrous tannates tannates which, by oxidisation, is The treatment ferric tannates. transforrned transformed into into insoluble insoluble ferric tannates. The treatment is with egg egg per hectolitre), clarify with (20 to 40 g. to add citric citric acid acid (20 to add to 40 g. per hectolitre), to to clarify cask. whites and and draw draw offinto offinto aa fumigated whites fumigated cask. ofan the presence caused by Pousse and and tourne tourne are are troubles Pousse troubles caused by the presence of an which acid and and which the tartane tartaric acid which attacks attacks the anaerobic bacillus bacillus which anaerobic of air the the surface surface of with the the air wines. On contact with develops in in weak weak wines. On contact develops and its clarity clarity and discoloured,loses iridescent, discoloured, wine becomes becomes iridescent, the wine the loses ils deposit. brownish deposit. acidity, and and forms forms aa brownish potassium, lactic lactic of potassium, of bitartrate bitartrate of It liberates, at at the the expense expense of gas, which to which tend tend to acid gas, propionic acid carbonic acid and carbonic acid and acid, propionic acid, first at first The taste, taste, at bottom. The the bottoffi. blow off off the and blow dilate the the cask cask and dilate is taken taken malady is If the the malady nauseating. If and nauseating. bitter and insipid, becomes becomes bitter wine of of the wine to the addition to by an an addition be checked checked by it can can be at the outset outset it at 40 to 40 30 to (20 to g. per per hectolitre), followed 30 hectolitre), followed to 30 30 g. acid (20 tartaric acid tartaric per hectolitre), (10 g. g. per hectolitre), with tannin tannin (10 treatment with hours later later by by treatment hours gelatine. with gelatine. clarification with then clarification then insufficient cellars, insufficient dirty cellars, are dirty troubles are The causes of these these troubles causes of The and wine-making and in the the wine-making used in utensils used vessels and and utensils care of of vessels care sound grapes, only sound use only to use failure to casks, failure of casks. cleaning of imperfect c1eaning EraPes, imperfect cellars. in the the cellars. high aa temperature temperature in or too too high or decree to the the decree According to for consumption consumption -- According Wines uDsuitable unsuitable for Willes for consumption consumption unfit for wine isis considered considered unfit 1930, wine of 1I February February 1930, of without acescence, acescence, with or or without malady, with from any any malady, suffering from ifif itit isis suffering when itit and when taste, and and taste, gives itit an appearance and which gives an abnormal abnormal appearance which of bitartrates or of of bitartra acid, or of tartaric tartaric acid, has eieither deficiency of has ther aa deficiency tes of characteristics: following characteristics: potassium, or of the the following at least least two two of or at potassium, per litre as expressed as litre expressed lj g.g. per of 11 in excess excess of Volatile acids acids in 1.l. Volatile sulphuric acid; acid; sulphuric potassium less less of potassium bitartrate of as aa bitartrate expressed as Total acidity acidity expressed 2.2.Total per lilitre; lf, g.g. per than li than tre; per litre. litre. 20 mg. per than 20 higher than Ammonia content content higher 3.3. Ammonia cellar isis of aacellar first rPilllirprl1Plnf requirement of The first wine -- The finished wine Careof of the thefinished Care its temperature temperature that its cold but but that beextremely extremely cold not that should be that itit should not possible. as possible. should be be as asconstant constant as should important traffic, itit isisimportant heavy traffic, there isisheavy where there Inaalarge large town, town, where In vehicles pass. when heavy heavy vehicles not shaken shaken when cellarisisnot to see see that that the the cellar to rise, which, torise, leesto kind can cancause causelees of this this kind shocks of Repeated shocks Repeated it sour. can turn turn itsour. wine, can mixedwith with the the wine, mixed rubbish Norubbish clean. No scrupulously c1ean. keptscrupulously mustbe bekept wine cellar cellar must AAwine (carrots, odour(carrots, strong odour withaastrong no vegetables vegetableswith left ininit, it,no should be be left should animals no barnyard barnyardanimais nocheese, cheese, no turnips), no cabbage, onions, onions, turnips), cabbage,

heat. heat.

Pasteurisation Pasteurisation will will not not restore restore to to its its normal normal state state aa wine wine killing thatisis badly badly soured, soured, but butititnevertheless neverthelesshas has the theeffect effect of ofkilling that off the existing acetic acetic ferments ferments so so that that the the liquid Liquid can can be be used. used. offthe Pasteurised Pasteurised wines can can remain remain on on ullage, ullage, i.e' i.e. with with an an air-filled air-filled gap gap in in the the barrel, barrel, for for quite quite aa long long time time without without being being affected. affected. Pasteurisation Pasteurisation has has the the effect effect of of ageing ageing the the wine. wine. Some Sorne people people claim daim that that the the process process benefits benefits the the wine, wine, but but opinions opinions ire are divided. divided. Certainly Certainly wines wines that that have have slight slight natural natural alcoholic alcoholic content content or deteriorate deteriorate quickly quickly can can be be helped helped by by pasteurisation. pasteurisa tion. Goût d'bvent. d'évent. Wine Wine put put into iuto barrels barrels which which have have not not been been Gofit properly properly cleaned, cleaned, are are very very old old or or badly badly corked, corked, loses loses part part of of its ils bouquet bouquet and takes takes on on aa particular particular taste taste which which isis called ca lied gar?t goût d'évent. d'0vent. To get rid of of this this taste taste the the wine wine is is drawn drawn off off into into aa clean, clean, well weil fumigated barrel. If If the the taste taste is is too too strong, strong, the the wine wine should be be mixed with another, another, which wruch has a higher higher alcohol alcohol content. It It must then th en be be clarified clarified and and drawn drawn off off immediately immediately the the wine wine is clear clear and the the gottt goût d'tvent d'évent has has gone. Vins Vins tournis. tournés. Wine usually usually 'turns' 'turns' as as a a result result of of a a poor poor quality grape harvest. It It is a common common mistake to to confuse confuse 'turned'wine 'turned' wine with wine wine that that is piqui piqué or soured. In In cask, cask, wine wine souring always begins to turn from from the the bottom, bottom, whereas whereas souring al ways to turn begins on the surface. dull its dull A wine may be recognised recognised by by its wine that turns completely may of smell of colour, it it is is clouded like muddy muddy water water and and has has a a smell of wine. characteristic rotting organic organic matter; ma tter; it i t has no characteris tic of wine. which the the of which for turned are several remedies for There are turned wine, of the seen that that the best and most used is as follows: As soon as it is seen it, withwithto it,. added to should be be added acid should citric acid wine has turned. turned, citric wine has (50 g. g. per per hectolproportion (50 hectolthe authorized proportion out exceeding the To few days. days. To in aa rew will return return in colour will itre). The The bright bright red red colour itre). with be mixed mixed with it should should be the spoiled spoiled wine completely, it restore the clarified. mixture clarified. quality and the mixture and the wine of another wine of good quality another circumstances; the in these these circumstances; is also indicated in Pasteurisation is 70"C. 60 to to 70°e. of 60 to aa temperature of heated to be heated should be wine wine should (l40to to 158°F.). (140 158"F.). yellow ( tache ) or or yellow (gras ) , stained stained (taché) ropey (gras), Wines which which become become ropey Wines gras wh when or gras ropey or (jaune).It become ropey has become It isis said en (jaune). said that aa wine has particularly rampant rampant malady isis particularly This malady viscid. This and viscid. oily and itit isis oily also but itit also France, but of France, centre of wines of of the the centre white wines among the the white wines. weak red red wines. attacks weak (8 g. g. per per hectolitre). hectolitre). proper dosage dosage (8 in aa proper alcohol tannin tannin in Use alcohol Use mix to mix days or three three da for two two or to time time for from time time to Shake the the wine wine from Shake ys to well, then clarify thoroughly. then clarify thoroughly. weil, say slightly slightly to say that tachi, tha becomes taché, If white white wine wine becomes If t isis to black animal black and animal acid and sulphuric acid of sulphuric reddened, combination of reddened, aa combination again. colour again. the colour to lighten lighten the used to can can be be used in the the yellow are also treated treated in are also become yellow White wines wines which which become White succ€sS: invariably successmethod, invariably simpler method, way, but but there there isis aa simpler sa me way, same the to the yellowed wine according to wine according the yellowed ful, which which isis to clarify the fui, to clarify wine Clarifying wine the heading C/arifying given below under the below under instructions given instructions later. (collage), then offa and draw draw off filter and then to to filter (col/age), a fortnight later. often happens or mildewed. mildewed.It often which lasle taste stagnant stagnant or Wines which Wines been badly badly cleaned have been wine have making wine in making that the used in that tensils used the uutensils and casks and the easks left inin the been left Water has has been or incompletely incompletely dried. dried. Water or that the the understandable that therefore understandable become stagnant. has has become stagnant. ItIt isis therefore same taste. taste. wine may may acquire the same acquire the wine pressto vat the vat to the from the the press passes unharmed unharmed from Wine generally passes Wine bad taste taste isis quickly casks, the the bad put into into mildewed mildewed casks, but ifif itit isput but drawn offinto aa get rid wine isisdrawn ridof of this, this, the the wine To get communicated.To communicated. barrel the barrel added, the oil isisadded, oliveoil of pure olive litre of cleancask caskand and aa litre clean has oilhas when the theoil fewdays days lalater, beingvigorously vigorously shaken shaken A few being ter, when the oil Alternatively theoil off.Alternatively wine isisdrawn drawnoff. the wine risento tothe thesurface, surface, the risen 987 987

WINE WINE and no liquids such as petrol, mineral oils, etc. All these easily and no Iiquids such as pet roi, minerai oils, etc. Ali these easily communicate their theiraroma aromasui sui generis to the wine, as has often communicate generis to the wine, as has often been observed. been 0 bserved. The wooden stands standson on which which the thecasks casks are are set set must must be be The wooden firmly fixed, 20 20 to 30 cm. (8 to l2 inches) above the ground on firmly fixed, to 30 cm. (8 to 12 inches) above the ground on crossbars made of wood or stone. In this way the air cross bars made of wood or stone. In this way the air circulates freely under the barrels and will prevent the hoops circulates freely under the barrels and will prevent the hoops becomingdamp. becoming damp. Careshould should be be taken taken to to fix fix the the casks casks with with wedges wedges so so that that Care one can be removed without others being shaken, since this one can be removed without others being shaken, since this might cause the lees to rise. might cause the lees to rise. Clarifying wine (collage) - It is necessary to clarify (colter) wine (collage) Clarifying - It is necessary to c1arify (coller) wine which is going to be bottled. The purpose of the collage wine which is going to be bottled. The purpose of the collage is to give the wine its limpidity;it precipitates to the bottom is to give the wine its limpidity; it precipitates to the bottom of the barrel the solids which the liquid holds in suspension, of the barrel the solids which the liquid holds in suspension, and which can give rise to the maladies already detailed. and which can give rise to the maladies already detailed. A barrel of of red red wine wine containing containing225litres clarified with with 44 225 litres isis c1arified A barrel egg whites well beaten in a litre of wine. For white wine a egg whites weil beaten in a litre of wine. For white wine a tablet of of special gelatine dissolved special gelatine dissolved in in f litre litre of of hot hot water water for for tablet each hectolitre of wine is used. each hectolitre of wine is used. The bung having been extracted, 4 or 5 litres of wine are The bung having been extracted, 4 or 5 litres of wine are removed with a rubber tube, a special suction pump or a removed with a rubber tube, a special suction pump or a siphon. Failing any of of these these tools, tools, the pierced the barrel barrel can carrbe be pierced siphon. Failing any with gimlet for the necessary amount the necessary amount of of wine wine to to be be with aa gimlet for withdrawn. The clarifying agent is poured in through the withdrawn. The c1arifying agent is poured in through the bunghole, then with the aid of a stick split into four at the end bunghole, then with the aid of a stick split into four at the end the liquid is is vigorously vigorously whisked whisked to to mix mix in in the the colle. colle. The The the liquid wine which was drawn offis now poured back, and more wine wine which was drawn offis now poured back, and more wine is added, ifneeded. The barrel is banged again and again to needed. The barrel is banged again and again to is added, if make the sediment fall and get rid of bubbles, and the bung is make the sediment fall and get rid of bubb\es, and the bung is replaced. The wine is then rested for 20 days. replaced. The wine is then rested for 20 days. Age at which wine should be bottled - Wines are bottled at Age at which wine should be bottled - Wines are bott\ed at

different'ages' according to to their their colour, colour, character, character, origin origin different 'ages' according and vintage year. Generally vintageyear. Generally speaking, speaking, wines wines that that must must be be and young or drunk or'en enfrafcheuy' and therefore theiefore have preserve have to to preserve drun k young fraîcheur' -- and their fruit fruit -- e.g. e.g.the white wines the white wines of of the the Loire, Loire, rosé ros6 wines wines and and their lighter red thelighter redwines wines -- should should be be bottled bottled at atan an early early stage. stage.Red Red the Bordeaux and and Médoc M6doc wines, wines, in particular, are in particular, are not not bottled bottled Bordeaux until they theyare are at years old. at least least three three years old. Burgundy Burgundy grands grands crus crus until are bottled bottled after after two years. However, two or or three three years. poor However, in in aa poor are vintage year, year, wines, wines, even even the grands crus, the grands crus,may may be be bottled bottled vintage earlier in in order order to to emphasise emphasise the the fruit fruityy character character of of the lighter the Iighter earlier wlne. wine. The bottles bottles -- Botties Bottles are are of of the the same same capacity capacity to within aa to within The few centilitres, centilitres, but but their their shape shape differs differs from from one one wine wine district district to to few another. ItIt isis therefore therefore best put each best to to put each wine wine into into bottles bottles another. which come come from from its its district district of of origin. origin. which Cleaning. The The bottles bottles are are washed washed in in hot hot water water in in which which C/eaning. soda has has been (20 kg. been disso\ved dissolved (20 kg. to l00litres). to 100 When they they are are soda litres). When half filled with with this quantity of this solution solution aa quantity poured of sm small is poured shot is halffilled ail shot in and and the the bottles bottles are are shaken shaken vigorously vigorously to glass to scour scour the the glass in thoroughly. thoroughly. If the the bottom bottom of of the the bottle bottle is is very very much much encrusted, encrusted, aa longlongIf handled brush brush is is used used to to c1ean clean il. it. It is then rinsed in cold water cold water handled and turned turned upside upside down perforated shelf down on on aa perforated (planche àd shelf (p/anche and igoutter), on on aa draining-board draining-board of galvanized iron, of galvanized iron, or or on on aa égoutter), metal contrivance contrivance with with spikes. spikes. They are are often often dried dried by by hot hot metal air. air. Bottling, corking, corking, sea/ing, sealing, capping. capping. Bottling Bottling should should preBott/ing, ferably be be do done in spring spring or or autumn. autumn. Cool, Cool, dry dry weather ferably ne in should be be chose chosen, should n, aa day when the wind blows from the north or the the easl. east. Stormy Stormy weather weather should be avoided. avoided. or It isis not necessary to to draw draw off clarified wine wine before It not necessary off the the c1arified bottling but it must be absolutely absolutely clear. This is easily verified bottling but it must be '

t

Bottled Bottledwine winestored storedininaacellar cellar

988 988

WINE WINE favourable favourable to to the the conservation conservation of of the the wine, wine, which which should should be be exposed exposed to to light light and and air air as as little little as as possible. possible. Appellations Appellations contr6l6es contrôlées (controlled (controUed names) names) of of wines wines and and brandies brandies -- The The general general principle principle of of repressing repressing frauds frauds in in the the naming wine dates naming of ofwine dates from from 1905, 1905, but but itit was was not not until untiJ 66 May May l919 1919 that that aa law law was was introduced introduced to to control control naming. naming. Even Even this this was made the the name name depend depend was still still incomplete, incomplete, because because it it made entirely on on the the place place in in which which the the wine wine was was made. made. The The result result entirely was was that that unscrupulous unscrupuJous producers producers were were able to to sell under under aa celebrated name name mediocre mediocre wines wines from commonplace commonplace plants plants celebrated grown grown in in places places unsuitable unsuitable for vine-growing vine-growing but but situatetl situated in in the region region designated designated and and therefore therefore without without any any breach breach of of the the the law, law, since since these these wines wines came came from from the the region indicated. indicated. origine des The Institut Institut national national des appellations dd'origine des vins et eaux-de-vie eaux-de-vie (I.N.A.O.) (1.N.A.O.) was was created created by by an an Order-in-Council Order-in-Council of of 30 July 1935. 1935. 30July 9 3 7) was I 9 30 to I1937) The The viticultural viticultural crisis crisis ((1930 was responsible responsible for for the the birth birth of this official and legal body. The government took took measures to cut down overproduction; these included included the compulsory wine sales and the compulsory uprooting of ofvines, slowing of ofwine uprooting vines, slowing distillation distillation of of wines, wines. Only Only fine fine wines, wines, those those bearing bearing an an an immediate immediate appellation d'origine, were exempt. There was an appellations increase of of harvesting harvesting declarations declarations boasting boasting appellations increase French home-produced cent of 1934, 20 20 per per cent of French in 1934, d'origine; in had serious This infringement wines wines was was described described thus. thus. This infringement had genuine vintage wines. of genujne adverse effects on the marketing of producers of of such wines found themselves victims The honest honest producers cheated' were cheated. consumers were the consumers of unfair competition and the of unfair competition and Senator Capus and and the trade union leaders representing the organisation an organisation growers had the idea of creating an leading vine growers leading representatives growers and State representatives and State linking professional wine growers time to same time at the the same and at violations, and in in order order to to curb curb the the violations, quality of genuine fine wines. improve the quality one: to multiple one: is therefore aa multiple purpose of the 1.N.A.O. The purpose I.N.A.O. is of appellation spirits of wines and and spirits determine which which are are the the wines which d'origine that genuinely genuinely correspond correspond to the quality upon which for founded, to draw up regulations for their reputation reputation has been founded, of these these application of production, to the application their supervise the to supervise their production, 'appellations contrôlées) contrdlies) (which explains term 'appellations regulations (which explains the term of stages of later stages at the the later also at not production level but also level but not only only at at production wete way appellations appellations were In this this way retail marketing. marketing. In wholesale and and retail and in France France and exploited in protected from fraudulently exploited protected from being being fraudulently abroad. abroad. of adminisadminishelp of with the the help this with The The LN.A.O. accomplishes accomplishes this great winewinein the the great based in in Paris, Paris, agents agents based trative trative departments departments in the throughout the producing regions, correspondents throughout producing and correspondents regions, and world. world. with has, with in Paris Paris has, department in The The technical administrative department technical administrative the marking the in marking succeeded in the of specialists, specialists, succeeded assistance of the assistance the checks the also checks areas. ItIt also boundaries wine-producing areas. boundaries of of wine-producing with in liaison liaison with declarations in authenticity wine-harvesting declarations authenticity of of wine-harvesting the departments. the important important State State departments. vine the vine of the control of supervisory control Besides this supervisory Besides operating operating this

byfilling filling aa glass glasswith with wine winefrom from the the barrel barrel and and holding holdingitit up up to to by thelight. light. the The next next requirement requirement isis aa tap tap of ofrust-proof rust-proofmetal or wood. wood. metal or The hole isis made made in in the the base base of of the the barrel barrel with with aa brace brace and and bit bi t AA hole exactly in in the the middle, middle, about about the the same same size size as as the the tap, tap, care care exactly being taken ta ken not not to to come come on on aa joint. joint. The The tap tap isis carefully carefully fixed fixed being so that that itit will will not not leak. leak. A A clean clean wooden wood en bucket bucket or or deep deep dish dish isis so placed below below so so that that none none of of the the wine wine is is lost. lost. One One or or two two placed bottles are are drawn drawn to to 'clear', 'clear', then then the the others others are are filled filled until until the the bottles barrel isis empty. empty. barrel The choice choice of ofcorks very important. important. They They must must be be of offine, fine, The corks isis very supple cork, cork, giving giving to to pressure pressure from from the the fingers fingers and and soft, supple soft, without blemishes. blemishes. Before Before using using they they should should be be put put into into aa without and boiling boiling water water poured poured over over them. them. This is is receptacle and receptacle intended not not only only to to make make them them more more supple supple but but also to to intended ensure that that they they are are freed of of any impurities. They are then then ensure drained for for an an hour hour in in aa strainer, strainer, and and finally finally soaked soaked for 10 to to drained 15 minutes minutes in in good quality alcohol, alcohol, either either brandy brandy or an old 15 marc which which has has lost lost its its aroma. marc It is is preferable preferable not not to re-use old corks, or to to use use them them only It vins ordinaires ordinaires which which are are going going to be be drunk soon' soon. for vrns The bottles are are corked immediately, immediately, with a small space space left The at the the top, top, so so that that ifstrong if strong pressure is is exerted exerted on the cork, cork, it at will not not burst burst the neck of of the bottle. bottle. will implement used used to knock the cork In private cellars the implement the bottle bottle is is aa kind of ba t; the cork cork is put put in and hit of bat; down into the the batte batte until is well weil down in the the neck. with the untll it is with In industrial industrial premises, large restaurants, etc., apparatus is In used which allows man y bottles to be corked in a short time used allows many fear of of breakage. breakage. without fear To seal the cork water. boiling water. is dissolved dissolved in boiling Spanish wax is seal the corks,s, Spanish (This wax wax is is sold paint shops It is France. 1t shops and by grocers in France. sold in in paint essential to add little fat as to to make it less so as the wax so fat to to the essential to add aa little break able, and, breakable, same time, time, more adhesive.) When the and, at at the the same wax been softened the neck of the bottle is held in the left has been wax has softened the hand and base in cork the cork and the end of the rightt hand and in the and the the base the righ and t. The bottle are dipped into iit. very small of the the neck are and aa very small part of is so as as to coat gently turned is gently turned with with the the right hand for aa moment so the well, then neck weil, then the bottle is set upright. the cork cork and and bottle bottle neck The pose of and to preserve the cork and purpose the cork wax is is to The pur to preserve of the the wax prevent it which are are always insects, which by insects, nibbled by it from from being nibbJed numerous numerous in in cellars. cellars. Sealing with generally replaced by sealing sealing with replaced by is now generally Sealing with wax wax is ver the metal partlyy or completely. or completely. cork either either parti metal caps, caps, which which co cover the cork These machine isis When aa machine and sizes. sizes. When These are many types types and in many are made made in not firmly nail firmly large nail to aa large is attached attached to not available, strong string string is available, aa strong fixed and the the one hand hand and held in in one The string is held fixed in string is in aa wall or or door. door. The bottle The string string isis place is other. The held in in the the other. is held with the in place cap in bottle with the cap wound just below ends the the which ends ridge which below the the ridge wound round round the cap just the cap neck, the pulled to fro, keeping keeping the and fro, to and neck, and and thus attached isis pulled thus attached string pressed right. right' cap isis pressed string taut, so that that the the cap taut, so Placing in this this rows in in two two rows set in are set The bottles bottles are Placing the the bOilles. bottles. The way: against bottoms against with their their bottoms bottles with row of of bottles way: at at the the back back aa row the filled in front front isis filled The space space in front. The necks in in front. the wall wall and and their their necks with necks and the the necks facing towards towards and with bottoms bottoms facing with another another row row with fitting row. On On back row. in the the back bottles in necks of of the the bottles fitting between between two two necks top tiny way. AA tiny piled in same way. in the the same are piled rows others others are top ofthese of these two two rows bu bble of when bottle when of the the bottle middle of visible in in the the middle be visible bubble of air air should should be itit isis Iying lying not itit isis lying or not whether or will indicate indicate whether and will lying on on its its side side and level. by caused by often caused prevent breaking, breaking, often may prevent level. Attention Attention to to this this may lack lack of of stability. stability. To set horizontal set are exactly exactly horizontal bottles are the bottles To be be certain certain that that the laths back. front and and back. both front row of of bottles, bottles, both laths on on top of each each row top of For to essential to perfectly steady, steady, itit isis essential to be be perfectly For aastack stack of of bottles bottles to use use uniform-sized uniform-sized bottles. bottles. Portable hold the the can hold These can used. These are often often used. Portable iron iron racks racks are equivalent size. tosize. according to more, according or more, barrelor barrel, aabarrel of half aabarrel, equivalent ofhalf This but less less much easier easier but bottles isis much This method method of of stacking stackine bottles

winesellers sellers Ancienl ofwine arms of coatof ofarms Ancient coal

989 989

WINE WINE growers, the technical advisers of the I.N.A.O. are valued growers, the technical advisers of the L NA.O. are valued consultantson onthe best viDe vine cultural thebest cultural methods methods and andon on the thecare care consultants andtreatment treatment of of the the wine. wine. They Theyalso also serve asliaison liaison agents serveas agents and between the various viticultural associations with which the belween the various viticultural associations with which the I.N.A.O. are anxious preserveclose anxioustoto preserve closerelations. relations. 1. N.A.O. are A disputed claims departrneot department follows follows up proceedings upail all proceedings A disputed daims instituted inin France France for for fraud fraud of ofappellations appellationsd'origine. d'origine. The The instituted intervenes inin such such cases cases in plaintiff in the the role role of of aa plaintilf 1.I.N.A.O. N.A.O. intervenes claiming damages. damages. From From 1942 1942 to to 1963 1963 itit had had 1,595 1,595 vine vine claiming growers, 3,512 wholesalers and 9.049 retailers convicted. growers, 3,512 wholesalers and 9,049 retailers convicted. The action action of of the the l.N.A.O. I.N.A.O. outside outside France France isis very very varied varied The because ilit has has to to take take into into account account the the legislation legislation of of the the because individual countries. Sorne Some countries, countries, such such as as Belgium, Belgium, Italy, Italy, individu al countries. Switzerland and and Germany grve full Germany give protectionto full protection appellations Switzerland 10 appellations d'origine; others, others, such such as as Anglo-Saxon Anglo-Saxon and and South South American American d'origine; countries allow allow the the French French appellations appellations d'origine d'origine to to be be countries usurped. This This isis why why we 'Australian Burgundy', we find find 'Australian Burgundy', usurped. 'Californian Sauternes' Sauternes''Pommard Industria Argentina', Argentina', etc. etc. 'Californian 'Pommard Industria When aa country's country's legislation prevents the legislation prevents possibility of the possibility of When instituting successful successful proceedings, proceedings, the the l.I.N.A.O. tries to to have have instituting N.A.O. tries commercial trademarks trademarks that that contain contain French French appellafions appellations commercial suppressed or, with the help of the Foreign Office and the suppressed or. with the help of the Foreign Office and the Ministry of of Economie Economic Alfairs. Affairs, tries tries to to negotiate negotiate the the signing of signing of Ministry bilateral agreements \0 protection of to ensure ensure the the protection of French French bilateral agreemenls appellations d'origine. d'origine. The The 1.I.N.A.O. has lawyers lawyers and and corcorappeflalions N.A.O. has respondents in almost every country who keep it informed of respondents in almost evcry country who kcep it informed of all violations. violations. The The LN.A.O. I.N.A.O. knows knows that that such such defence defence action action al! joined forces with the Comitt de alone is is not enough and and has has joined alone not enough forces with the Comilé de propagande enfaveur dc vin and commercial advisers abroad propagande enJaveur de vin and commercial advisers a broad publicity campaign aimed at expanding what, to our in aa publicity in campaign aimed al expanding what, to our knowledge, is one of of the the oldest oldest and and certainly certainly the the most knowledge, is one most prestigious of French productions. prestigious of French productions. To serve serve wine - This is how wine should be served at table To mDe - This is how wine should be served at table according to Grimod de de la (Almanach des des according to Grimod la Reynidre Reynière (Almanach Gourmands): Gourmands) . 'Wines of Orl6ans, Auxerre, Joigny, Coulanges, Verman'Wincs of Orléans, Auxerre, Joigny, Coulanges, Vermanton and other vintages of Basse-Bourgogne, and the common ton and other vintages of Basse-Bourgogne, and the common wines of Bordeaux, are generally adopted for the everyday wines of Bordeaux, are generally adopted for the everyday use of the demi-gourmand, or for hosts of a demi-fortune. use of the demi-gourmand, or for hosts of a demi-fortune. 'Often, after the soup, a wise gourmet offers a glass of dry 'Often, after the soup, a wise gourmet oHers a glass of dry Madeira Madeira or or Teneriffe; Tenerilfe; vin vin ordinarre ordinaire occupies occupies the the table table until until the the second second service; service, then then with with the the roast roast itit isis customary customary to to serve serve the Beaune, Pommard, the the the Beaune, the Pommard, the Clos-Vougeot, Clos-Vougeot, the the ChamberChambertin tin or, or, according according to to the the taste taste ofthe of the guests, guests, the the second second quality quality Bordeaux, Bordeaux, Saint-Emilion, Saint-Emilion, Chdteau Château Margaux Margaux or or Graves. Graves. 'As 'As soon soon as as the the third third service service has has succeeded succeeded the the roast, roast, with with the the entremets, entremets, the the vegetables, vegetables, the the elegant elegant pastries, pastries, the the Bordeaux-Lafite, Bordeaux-Lafite, the the delicious delicious Roman6e, Romanée, the the Hermitage, Hermitage, the the C6te Côte R6tie, Rôtie, or or if if the the guests guests prefer, prefer, the the white white wine wine of of Bordeaux, Bordeaux, the the Sauternes Sauternes or or the the Saint-P6ray, Saint-Péray, etc. etc. should should be be served. But dessert soon follows the third service. Then aIl the the served. But dessert soon follows the third service. Then all special special wines wines of of Spain Spain or or Greece Greeee make make their their appearance, appearance, the the port, the sweet old old port, the sweet Malvoisie, Malvoisie, the the Royal-Jurangon, Royal-Jurançon, the the Malaga Malaga and and the the Muscat, Muscat, the the Rota Rota and and the the wine wine of of Cyprus. Cyprus. wine poured Tokay is into glasses. very small Finally, Tokay wine is poured inlo very small glasses. FinaJly, to to crown crown the the feast, feast, Champagne Champagne froths froths into into crystal, crystal, and and gaiety, which has already spread itself among the guests, is gaiety, which has already spread itself among the guests, is manifested manifesled inin cheerful cheerful talk talk and and lively livelyrepartee. repartee. 'This is, more more or or less, less, the the order order of of service service of or wines. wines. 'This is, Doubtless personal taste of each host causes variations to the Doubtless the personal taste of each host causes variations ta be be made made from from time time to to time. time. But But the the order order indicated indicated isis generally observed.' generally observed' Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin declared: declared: 'The 'The correct correct order order of of service service of of wines is to begin with the most temperate and progress to the wines is to begin with the mos! tempera te and progress to the headiest and most fragrant.' (Aphorism XII). headiest and most fragrant.' (Aphorism XII). Inlnfact, criterion and thecriterion andthere thereare areno no fact,personal personaltaste tastemust mustbe bethe rigid rules except, perhaps, the following two: rigid rules except, perhaps, the following two: Never serve game vintage white sweet Never serve vinlage sweet while wines wines with wilh gameor or brown brown

meat. Never Neverserve servevin/age vintagered redwines wines with with shellfish sheilrtsh alldjish. andfish. meal. Servingwine wine isisan anart. art. Which Which wine wine totochoose? choose? And And with with Serving whichdish'! dish? From From what whatIype glassought typeor ofglass ought itit 10 to be bedrunk? drunk? which And alat what whattemperaturc? temperature? When When there numberofwines, there area are anumber of wines, And in what what order order ought ought they they to to be beolfered? offered?IlIt isis inin this domain this domain in that the theskills good host skillsof ofaagood hostare are most most apparent. apparent. that glasses - Inevery Theglasses-In every wine-growing wine-growing region region of of France France there The there exists aaspecial special type type of ofglass created to qualitiesof toenllance enhance the the qualities of exists glass created the wine wine or wines produced produced there. or wines there. But But ilit would would be be aadifficu!t difficult the task, indeed, indeed, to to build build up up aacollection collection of glasses. of aH all these these glasses. task, The form, form, transparency transparency and glass ail and fineness fineness of of aa glass all contricontriThe greatly to bute greally to the the savouring glass must savouring of The glass of aa wine. wine. The must be be bute spacious and and deep, deep, so need never so that that itit need never be be fifilled; be should be spacious lied ; itit should bombi 50 so that that the the wine wine has has room room to to expand, expand, and and should should bombé narrow towards towards the the lip lip to to capture capture the the bouquet. bouquet. The The sides narrow sides of of glass should the glass should be be as as thin possible and thin as as possible and absolutely absolutely the transparent; ail all barriers barriers between between the wine, the gaze the wine, the lips lips or or the the gaze transparent; practically non-existent. being praclically non-existent. Heavy Heavy or glasses are or coloured coloured glasses are bemg not correct. correct. not Bordeaux wine glasses tend wine glasses tend to to be be elongated; elongated; Burgundy Burgundy Bordeaux glasses rounder; rounder; but but the former can quite weil the former can quite well be be used for ail all used for glasses wines, even, even, if if need need be, be, for for Champagne. Champagne. The glass is The ftuled fluted glass is wines, better; the glass, so-called the'tulip' so-called because because of of its resemblance better; 'tulip' glass, to aa barely-opened barely-opened tulip, is the best of all. best ofall. to The temperature temperature of mnes wines -The (41" to 45°F.) Champagne: 5° 5o to 7°C. 7"C. (41° 45'F.) Champagne: Dry white wines: (41" to 46·5°F.) wines: 5° 5'to 8'C. (41° 46.5"F.) Dry to 8°C. Sweet white wines' wines:2" (36'to 5"C. (36' 4l'F.) Sweet 2° to soc. to 41°F.) Ros6 wines: (46.5' to 50°F.) wines: 88" to to 100e. 10"C. (46-5" 50'F.) Rosé Light-bodied red wines: 10 l0'to (50. ta 12"C. (50° to 53SF.) Light-bodied to 12°C. 53.5.F.) Vintage Burgundies: 15° l5'to (59" to 62· lZ'C. (59° 62.5"F.) Vintage Burgundies: to 17°C. sa F.l Vintage clarets: 16° (61" to 64·soF.) 16" to 18°C. 18.C. (61 Vintageclarets: 64.5.F.) Decanting -- A delicate operation operation much Dec311ting A delicate much practised practised in Bordelais. It consists of transferring Bordelais. It lransferring the contents of aa bottle of wine sediment at the of wine into into aa carafe, taking taking care to leave the sediment bottom of the bottle. The liquid must be poured slowly from boltom of botlle. The one one receptacle receptacle to the other. The operation operation is carried out by by the the light light of of aa candle candIe placed placed behind the the neck of of the the bottle, bottle, and continues continues until until the the first tirst filaments filaments of of sediment sediment appear. appear. Usually Usually itit is is only only old wines wines that that are are decanted. decanted. Care Care must must be be taken taken not not to decant decant fragile fragile wines wines too too soon soon in in case case they they go go flat. fiat. On On the the other other hand, hand, robust robust tannic tannic wines wines improve improve with with aeration. aeration. Wine Wille in in dietetics dietetics -- Dieticians Dieticians are are quick quick to to treat trca! wine wine with with suspicion orits its alcoholic alcoholic content. content. Nevertheless. Nevertheless, since since suspicion because because of wine wine provides provides the the body body with with 500 500 to to 800 800 ealories, calories, aa large large number number of of mineral minerai salts, iron, iron, tannin, tannin, and and aa considerable considerable quantity quantity of of B B vitamins, vitamins, no-one no-one can can deny deny its its anti-toxic, anti-toxic, mineralising mineralising and and nourishing nourishing action. action. Only Only aa limited limited amount amount of of itil should should be be consumed consumed because because of of the the alcohol alcohol itit contains. contains. IfIfaa sedentary sedentary adult adult absorbs absorbs more more than than jt litre litre (scant (scant pint, pint, 2f 2!cups) cups) daily litre for daily (l (llitre for heavy heavy workers), workers), the the body body finds finds itit impossible impossible to to assimilate assimila te the the excess excess alcohol. alcohol. Try Try to to drink drink only only good good wine; wine; fine fine wines wines which which have have not not been been subjected subjected to to any any chemical chemical 'treatment' 'treatment' nor nor had had any any preservative is rather expensive but preservativeadded added to to them. them. Such Such wine wineis ratherexpensive but itit isis the the only only one one that that isis aa natural, nalural, complete complete and and living livingfood. food. Young Young wines wines are are quality quality foods, foods, far l'al' superior superior nutritionally nutritionally to tomature maturewines; wines,red red wines winesare aregenerally generallybetter bettertolerated tolerated than than white white wines wines mainly mainly because because of of the the type type of of manufacturing manufacturing processes pro cesses involved. involved. Apart Apart from J'rom the the sulphur sulphur derivatives derivatives that that are are currently currently used used to to prevent prevent certain certain fermentations fermentations and and toto hasten merchanls almost almostalways always hasten the the blanching blanchingprocess, process, wine winemerchants resort resort totopotassium potassiumferrocyanide ferrocyanideto10prevent prevenlthe thewine winebecombecoming ing cloudy cloudy or or 'going 'going flat'. flat'. Dieticians Dicticians condemn condemn the the addition addition ofofsuch suchan anextremely extremelytoxic toxicsubstance. su bstance.They Theymaintain maintainthat thatititisis better bettertotaresign resignoneself oneselftotodrinking drinkingwater waterthan thantotodrink drinksuch such wines unfortunately,are arethe theones onesthat thatusually usuallyappear appear wineswhich, which,unfortunately, 0

0

0

990 990

WINE WINE TABLE TABLE RELATING RELATING WINES WINES TO TO FOOD FOOD Food Food

1

Red Red wines wines

White White wines wines

1

rq

Xc) ~ ~ >F

:J « tsfi w ~ :> ~

*t 0 :t:

Food I~~~~~_ I

1

Pouilly-fum€ Pouilly-fumé

rieur rieur Passe-tousPasse-tousgrains grains Givry Givry MAcon Macon rouge rouge

Montlouis Montlouis Cr€py Crépy Edelzwicker Edelzwicker Sylvaner Sylvaner

Beaujolais ~uJolais Chinon, Chinon, bourbourgueil gued Gris Gris meunier meunier

Bordeaux Bordea ux claidairet rel Bourgogre Bourgogne rose rose Anjou, touraine Anjou.louraine C6tes Côtes de de ProPro-

(full-bodied (full-bodied for for highly seasoncd h igh Iy seasoned

1

1 1

sauces) sauces)

Graves Graves Chablis Chablis Meursault Meursault

vence vence

CortonCorton-

Saint-pourqain Saint-pourçain Ros€ Rose de de B6arn l3éarn

charlemagne charlemagne Les Les montrachet montrachet Pouilly-fuisse Poui Il y-fuisse Hermitage Hermitage blanc blanc Condrieu Condrieu Riesling Riesling Arbois Arbois blancblanc-

(A ~

zZ

«

Fl .a

tJ1f.l

\J ID

Fine FilJe wines willes

« Qi 4

1

:J",

Saint4milion Saint-émilion Pomerol Pomerol Musigny Mu,igny Roman6e-conti Roma nee-conti Beaune, Bea u ne, volnay volnay Hermitage Hermitage Banyuls Banyuls grand grand clu cru Porto Porto

Montrachet Montrachet Champagne Champagne Coulee Coulee de de serserrant rant Riesling Riesling Hermitage Hermitage blanc blanc Chiteau-grillet Châleau-g.rillet

U1 tI\

SO
Grands Gralld; crus crus M6doc, Médoc, graves graves

Graves Graves Meursault Meursault

o!z az U_ t& Li:

r

~

1

~

Quart-deQuart-dechaume chaumc Bonnezeaux Bonncu:aux Gewurz0ewu!2traminer tramlncr Frontignan Frontignan

1

Mellow Md/ol\' wines wines (for (for sweet swect sauces) sauces) Sautemes Sauternes


~

Fine sweet Fine_""ui wines W;I1t"J Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac

vinjaune vin Jaune

E :é rt)

w

ë P

Rose wines W1,_·_n_es_~--+-_R_o_sé_w_i n_es----l

Red wines White wines Whi te wi__n_es_ _<--_Red Dry D ry

Light Ught Bordeaux Bordeaux sup6supé·

Dry Dr,&di light /ighl Bourgogne Bourgogne alialigotc goté Petit Pct it chablis cha blis MAcon Mâcon blanc blanc Sancerre Sancerre

Orrc::: ..J ~ U0

~~

Rose Rosé wines wines 1

1

1

Cl ww

Monbazillac Monbazillac Vouvray Vouvray Coteaux Coteaux du Layon

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Gewurztraminer traminer

- - l - - -,

1

8nr j S '< 5HS
~ 3: ::;; Et: -

-

W

Samos Samos 1

1

1

Dry or nullow /Jrmel/ol<' Graves, cerons cerons Grave~, Meursault Meursault ChassagneChassagnemontrachet montrachet Beaune bl blanc Beaune ane Champagrre Champagne Vouvray Vouvray Saumur Saumur Anjou Riesling Ric:slillg

taU'

.l.l '-W

F

'wzt{"

!Z

Beaune Beaunc Savigny Mercurey Mercurey Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil

Fruity Frui!)' Sancerre Sa ncer le ros6 rose Roses d'Anjou Touraine ou de Touraine Pinot ror.e ros6 d·AId'AlPinol sac€ sace

y) ,-, .t)

~w~
L.:..I:;:::J

:2:3:< w
=;; ;>;

f-::Cw

2=,2 -r~ ~~3

~ttt

El ! ...J u.;


z

~

-<

.t1 V)

Cl! &

t{ w. F

~

(tt
>0

qrFo

,-i-Ç.;J

'--Z

::e3:> 3: ==z ~ 1

~ f-t"

« &s)

o> 0'::;; Cl!CJ

On 00 H lrl IJ.IC,J -Jo::

=fd'u) 0::",

()< G< 0

'"

ir

0

:ÉV)

L.:..I

_J:

~3: ;.I,,;w .;11 ui~

Dry {J,y bandol Cassis, bandol Cassis, C6tes de de Côtes

Dry Dry Seeabovc above See

-wC!. "fi8

::eUe.: E?X ~~O

f4 u) pv O:L ~Vl

QE 00::
Provence Provence Tavel, lirac Tavel.lirac deBearn B6arn Ros6de Rose

"'0 ::J~

e= (Ji U...J

~...J

0::c

;:;::

Go

1

1

Well-matured W,I/m,,,,,d graves M6doc, Médoc. graves

(IlU

A< Z< <0

Saint-6milion Sai n t-èm il ion Chambertin Chambertin Beaujolais Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil Bourgueil

::;;"'~

---

1

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Champagne Champagne Champagne Champagne nature nature Riesling Riesling Sancerre Sancerre Pouilly-fum6 Pouilly-fume Quinçy Quincy Savennidres Sa vennlères Roche-auxRoche-auxmoines moines Muscadet Muscadet Gros-plant Gros-plant C-assis, bandai bandol Cassis. blanc Arbois blanc Arbois

C

graves Beaune Savigny Savigny Volnay Volnay Beaujolais BeaUjolais Chinon, Chinon, bourgueil bourgueil SaumurSaumurchampigny champign}'

a

montrachet mO~lfachct

:t:v,

Médoc. Beaune

Graves Graves Sautemes Sauternes Montrachet Montrachet Meursault Me ursault Riesling Riesling Vouvray Vouvray Anjou AnJOU Champagne Cbampagne

~o1f.l gE? ~L.:..I~

Dry D,y Graves Graves Entre-deuxmers mers Chablis Chablis Pouilly-fuisse Pouilly-fuisse ChassagneChassagnemontrach€t montrachet ChevalierChevalier·

i:i: ....l

1

Supple Supp/~

Marga.ux Margaux Saint-julien Sai n I-jul ie"

L"h,~b,d,.d

Light-bodied M6doc, graves

1

991 991

Saintimilion Saint-emû'on Pomerol Pomerol Nuits C6tes de de NUits Cotes

C6tes de B€aune , Côtes de Beaune Morgon Morgon Fleurie i Fleurie Moulin-d-vent Moulin-à-vent Hermitage Hermitage Cornas Cornas C6te-16tie Côte·rotie ChiteauneufChà teauneu fdu-pape du-pape

Bordeaux Bordeaux sup€rieur supérieur de C6tes de COtes Fronsac Fronsac Cahors 1 Cahors Madiran Madiran Santenay 1 Sautenay Mercurey Mercurey Beaujolais Beaujolais rouge Sancerre rouge Sancerre TouraineToura ine·amboise amboise C6tes du duRhone Rh6ne Cot,s

1

1

--

WINE TABLE RELATING RELATING WINES WINES TO TO FOOD FOOD TABLE Food Food

1

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White wines wines White Champagrre Champagne ArboisArboisvinjaune vin jaune

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F< ::c~

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ChiteauChâteauchalon chalon Ul

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ex:::c Ul U >t..

Sauternes Sauternes Meursault Meursault

ArboisArbois-

vin vin jaune jaune GewurzGewurztraminer traminer Champagne

Sancerre Sancerre

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Margaux Margaux Saint-julien Saint-julien Graves Graves Musigny Musigny Beaune Beaune Volnay Volnay Beaujolais Beaujolais decrus crus de Arbois rouge rouge Arbois Hermitage Hermitage

FRENCH WINES. WINES. VINS vrNS DE DE FRANCE FRANCE -- A A list list of great and of the FRENCH the great and small regional regional wines wines appears appears under under the the name name of small of each each province, also also the itsappellation the names names of of its appellation contrôlée contrilte wines. wines. province,

Pauillac Pauillac Saint-estdphe Saint-estèphe Saint-6milion Saint-émilion Pomerol Pomerol grands Tous les les grands Tous crus de de la la Côte C6te crus Nuits de Nuits de Corton Corton Pommard Pommard C6te-r6tie Côte-rôtie ChiteauneufChàteauneufdu-pape du-pape

PRTNCTPAL CÉPAGES CE?AGES(VARTETTES OF VINE) VrNE) IN PRINCIPAL (VARIETIES OF IN FRANCE. FRANCE.

BORDELAIS BORDELAIS Cdpages rouges. rouges. Cabernet Cabernet Sauvignon, Cépages Sauvignon, Cabernet Cabernet franc, franc, Merlot, Malbec, Malbec, Petit Petit Verdot, (The first Verdot, (The Meriot, first three three constitute constitute the the principal vine vine stock stock of of the the wines wines of principal of Médoc, M6doc, Graves, Graves, SaintSaintEmilion and and Pomerol.) Pomerol.) Emilion Cdpages blancs. blancs. Sémillon, S6millon, Sauvignon. Sauvignon, Muscadelle. Cépages Muscadelle.

Pomerol Pomerol Canon-fronsac Canon-f ronsac Vins de de la la Côte C6te Vins de Nuits Nuits de Corton Corton Morgon Morgon Hermitage Hermitage C6te-16tie Côte-rôtie ChiteauneufChâteauneufdu-pape

Cl

-u)

Ros6 wines wines Rosé

graves Medoc, graves Médoc, Saint-6milion Saiot-émilion Pomerol Pomerol Vins de de la la Côte C6te Vins de Beaune Beaune de Beaujolais Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil Bourgueil

Cl

tf ql Cl~ tla Ul(/) Z lJ) ZUl -t! -Ul El+ Ul::c >U >U

Red wines wines Red

on the the market. market. The (oncondition The only only wine wine allowed allowed (on condition that on that itit isis drunk inin moderation) moderation) isis that produced from that produced from vine vine stock stock drunk absolutely free free ofhybrids; of hybrids; the grapesofwhich the grapes of which have havenot absolutely not been been 'enriched' during during vinification vinification by by the addition of of beet the addition beet sugar, sugar, 'enriched' have been been fermented fermented naturally naturally without without the have the addition addition of of sulphur dioxide (or only dioxide (or only in in very very reduced quantities, and reduced quantities, sulphur and only only stage so this stage so as not to interfere with as not to interfere with the theaction actionof of the natural aatt this the natural yeasts). The The only only nutritionally nutritionally safe safe red red wines wines are are those yeasts). those that that have undergone undergone carbonic carbonic maceration maceration only. only. have

Micon Mâcon blanc Arbois Arbois blanc

Champagne Champagne Vins Vins mousseux mousseux de m6thode méthode champenoise Sauternes Sauternes Barsac Barsac Monbazillac Monbazillac Vouvray Vouvray moelleux moelleux Coteaux Coteaux du du Layon Layon Muscat Muscat d'Alsace d'Alsace GewurzGewurztraminer traminer

Vins de la Côte C6te Vins Nuits de Nuits Hermitage Hermitage ChAteauneufChàteauneufdu-pape

Pinot blanc

Mercurey Mercurey

Givry Beaujolais Chinon Chinon Bourgueil Bourgueil

Bordeaux clairet Bourgogne rosé ros6 Sancerre rosé ros6 Sancerre

BURGUNDY Cépages Cdpages rouges. rouges. Pinot noir, almost exclusively, red exclusively, for the red wines wines of the the Côte-d'Or C6te-d'Or and and Chalonnais; Chalonnais; Gamay noir, noir, with with added juice, for added white grape juice, white grape for the the wines wines of of Beaujolais Beaujolais and and MAconnais. Mâconnais. Cépages Ctpages blancs. Chardonnay Chardonnay for ail all the the appellation white wines; Pinot wines: Pinot blanc, blanc. Aligoté. Alieot6.

1

Maury Rivesaltes Rivesaltes Grand Grand roussillon roussillon Banyuls Banyuls Porto Maddre Madère Malaga Malaga

ALSACE

-

CÉPAGES BLANCSBLANCS cfPAGEs

A. Cépages A. and GewurztraGewurztraCepages nobles. nobles. Riesling, Riesling, Traminer and miner, Pinot gris gris or miner, Clevner, or Tokay Tokay d'Alsace, d'Alsace, Muscat Clevner, Pinot d'Alsace, Sylvaner. blend of (A blend nobles is is called d'Alsace, Sylvaner. (A of cépages cdpages nobles 'Edelzwicker'.) 'Edelzwicker' .) B. Cépages B. Goldriesling. courants. Knipperle, Chasselas, Goldriesling. Cdpages courants. blend of of cipages cépages courants courants is called'Zwicker'.) called 'Zwicker'.) (A blend CÉPAGES RoucES ROUGES -- Pinot noir noir or Burgunder. Pinot Meunier cEIAGES Meunier (clairet (clairet wines'Schillerwein'). wines 'Schillerwein').

Muscat Muscat de: de:

CÔTES DU RHÔNE COTES RHONE As in all ail southern southern vineyards there there is aa wide wide variety As variety ofvines of vines used. Here are the principal ones, ones, not not the used. the accessory ones. ones. (The (The proportion of ofthese limited by by law.) law.) these is limited APPELLATION GENERALE GÉNERALE coTEs CÔTES DU DU RH6NE RHÔNE - Cépages APPELLATTON - Ctpages Grenache, Syrah, Mourvddre, Mourvèdre, Picpoul, Terret noir, rouges. Grenache, Picardan, Cinsault; Cinsault; Cbpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Clairette, Clairette, Roussette Roussette Picardan, Roussane, Marsanne, Marsanne, Bourboulenc, Bourboulenc, Viognier. Viognier. or Roussane,

Rivesaltes, Rivesaltes, Frontignan, Frontignan, Lunel, Lunel, Beaumes-deBeaumes-deVenise, Venise, Samos Samos

Wine Wine suitable suitable for for accompanying accompanying soups soups and and egg egg dishes dishes are are not not included included here; here; orotnary ordinary carale carafe wrnes wines do do verv very well. weil.

992

WINE WINE MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN COAST COAST

large Like Like the the C6tes Côtes du du Rh6ne Rhône m6ridionales, méridionales, there there are are aa large the number number of of vines, vines, which which vary vary from from one one appellation appellation to to the

other. other. Cbpages Cépages rouges. rouges. Grenache, Grenache, Carignan, Carignan, Mourvddre, Mourvèdre, Ginsault, Ginsault, Terret, Terret, Picpoul Picpoul noir, noir, Cournoise, Cournoise, Aramon. Aramon. Cbpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Ugni, Ugni, Clairette, Clairette, Mauzac, Mauzac, Carignan Carignan blanc, blanc, Picpoul Picpoul blanc. blanc. natural for vine principal The NATuRAL NATURAL swnEr SWEET wINEs WINES - The principal vine for natural sweet sweet wines wines is is the the Grenache, Grenache, particularly particularly the the Grenache Grenache noir noir Also the (Banyuls, etc.). Rivesaltes, Maury, (Banyuls, Maury, Rivesaltes, etc.). Also the Maccabeo, Maccabeo, Malvoisie, Malvoisie, Muscat, Muscat, Carignan, Carignan, Blanquette, Blanquette, Alicante; Alicante; Muscat Muscat (Frontignan, etc.). etc.)' dor6 doré (golden) (golden) for for the the muscats muscats (Frontignan,

EASTERN EASTERN REGION REGION

(Jura, Château-Chalon), Chdteau-Chalon), Savagnin (Jura, Ctpages Cépages blancs. blancs. Savagnin

Clairetle

NORTH REGIoN REGION NoRrH

--

appellations Cépages rouges' rouges. Syrah (the appellations Cipages

blancs. Viognier, Ermitage, Cornas, Cornas, etc.). etc.). Ctpages Cépages blancs. Viognier, Ermitage,

(Cr6py' Savoy), Savoy), Fendant (Crépy, Roussette Roussette (Seyssel), (Seyssel), Chasselas Chasselas or or Fendant with Muscat). Muscat). de Die, Clairette Die, with Clairette (Clairette (Clairette de (Arbois, noir (Arbois, Pinot noir Trousseau, Pinot Poulsard, Trousseau, rouges. Poulsard, Cipages Cépages rouges. Jura). Jura). WEST SOUTH WEST SOUTH is (Garonne basin) basin) is the South-West South-West (Garonne vine stock stock of of the The basic basic vine The local of sorne some local addition of with the the addition of Bordelais Bordelais with as that that of the same same as the

Roussane, Marsanne. Marsanne. Roussane, Grenache, Cinsault, SOUTH REGIoN REGION - Ctpages Cépages rouges. rouges. Grenache, sourH for and some others for Mourvèdre, Carignan, Picpoul. and Carignan, Syrah, Picpoul, Mourvddre,

vines. vines. Malbec. Merlot, Malbec. rouges. Cabernets. Cabernets. Meriot, Cbpages rouges. Cépages Muscadelle, Sauvignon, MuscadeIlè, Semillon, Sauvignon, blancs. Sémillon, Ctpages blancs. Cépages (Jurangon). Manseng (Jurançon), Petit Manseng Gros etet Petit Mauzac, Ondenc, Ondenc, Gros Mauzac, (Tursan), Blanche. Folle Barroque Barroque (Tursan), Folle Blanche.

proportions authorized ofthese different vines vary from one proportions appellation appellation to the other.).

CHAMPAGNE CHAMPAGNE Muscadelle, Sauvignon, Muscadel1e, S6millon, Sauvignon, blancs. Sémillon, Ctpages blancs. Cépages (Jurangon)' Manseng (Jurançon), Petit Manseng Gros etet Petit Ondenc, Gros tvtauiac. Ondenc, Mauzac, 'Blancs de blancs' blancs' the for Chardonnay blancs. Ctpages Cépages blancs. Chardonnay for the 'Blancs de ( natural or effervescent)' (natural or effervescent).

Clairette, Ugni blanc, Clairette, local use. use. Cépages Grenache blanc, blancs. Grenache Ctpagis blancs. (The Picpoul. (The Marsanne, Picpoul. blanc, Bourboulenc, Bourboulenc, Roussane, Roussane, Marsanne, blanc,

LOIRE VALLEY LOIRE VALLEY (Sannoir (SanPinot noir Cépages (red and wines): Pinot ros€ wines): and rosé rouges. (red Cbpages rouges. (Touraine, Anjou), Anjou), cerre), 'Breton' (Touraine, or 'Breton' franc or Cabernet franc cerre), Cabernet Meunier Pinot Meunier Gamay, Groslot, Cot (Touraine, Anjou ros6s) Pinot Anjou rosés) Cot (Touraine, (Orléanais). (Orl6anais). Pouillywines, PouillyCépages Sauvignon (Sancerre, Cher wines, (Sancerre, Cher blancs :Sauvignon Cipages blancs: (Touraine, Fumé), Ch6nin (Touraine, (Pouilly-sur-Loire), Chénin Chasselas (Pouilly-sur-Loire), Fum6), Chasselas Blanche or Folle Folle Blanche Anjou), Gros-Plant or Melon, Gros-Plant or Melon, Muscadet or Anjou), Muscadet (Nantes (Nantes region). region).

BEVEnACES. See BEVERAGES. WINES -- See HOME-MADE WINES HOME-MADE

After frRANcens - - After vINS ÉTRANGERS WINES. VINS INTERNATIONAL WINES. INTERNATIONAL production inin vinicultural production biggest vinicultural has the the biggest France, Italy Italy has France, wine-growing from aawine-growing (around 35 hectolitres from 35 million million hectolitres Europe (around Europe position. Other Other thirdposition. Spain isis inin third hectares);Spain area of of 22 million million hectares); area

Loir wines

MontOire;.s'.let Lo"r . laCharlre-S/-!e LoU'

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BI

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ChaLeaurenc,rt 0 o Blois wines Chateaurenault. Bbis _

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993 993

WINE

WINE

nametotothe thewines winesproduced producedininitsitsvalley; valley;these thesehave havea a name pronouncedbouquet. bouquet.Three Threeofofthe thecommunes communesare areBadeBadepronounced Kreuznach, Münster, Miinster,Bôchelheim. B
Bourgognc Bourq,0gne

i ...-t-.teindt{vitzc Io r**i -.1i' .-...",:f f",i -

*';,*i#:!w*

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.

Vauciennes9

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Scale ~

10

kilometen

The vineyards of Champagne

The vineyards of Champagne

continents continents that that produce produce wine wine are are America America (which (which is is the the biggest biggest wine-producing wine-producing continent continent after after Europe); Europe); Africa Africa (South Africa as well as North Africa); Australia (50,000 (South Africa as weil as North Africa); Australia (50,000 htctares South Wales Wales and and in in Victoria); Victoria); and and even even Asia, Asia, h-ectares in in New New South for State is for although although Israel Israel as as aaState is abstemiouso abstemious, there there are are enough enough vines grown to produce a kosher wine, which is exported to vines grown to produce a kosher wine, which is exported to the Israeli restaurants of Europe. the Israeli restaurants of Europe. EUROPE

:"ft"Jthr-an vineyards are Germany. Germany. ALLEMAGNE ALLEMAGNE - The German vineyards are the the most most northern northern of of Europe. Europe. They They produce produce well weil known known white white wines, especially in the Moselle and Rhine valleys; also red wines, especially in the Moselle and Rhine valleys; also red wines of local repute. wines of local repu te. Rheingau, Rheingau, Rhein-Hessen Rhein-Hessen and and Nahe. Nahe. The The great great white white wines wines of ofthe the Rhine Rhine (dry (dry or or sweet, sweet, made made from from late-gathered late-gathered grapes) grapes) from come Riesling, come from Riesling, Traminer, Traminer, Gutedel, Gutedel, Miiller-Thurgau Müller-Thurgau vine of the the best best known known vineyards vineyards are are JohanJohanvine stocks. stocks. Some Sorne of nisberg nisberg (former (former domain domain of of the the prince prince de de Metternich), Metternich), Rtidesheimer, Hochheimer, Sonnenberg. The famous Rüdesheimer, Hochheimer, Sonnenberg. The famous Liebfraumilch wine of which Liebfraumilch isis not not aa vineyard, vineyard, but but aa type type of ofwine ofwhich there there are are several several brands. brands. There There are are also also the the red red wines wines of of Assmannshausen. Assmannshausen. The The Rhein-Hessen Rhein-Hessen region region follows follows after after Rheingau Rheingau on on the the left bank of ofthe the river. river. Its Its wines wines are are fruity fruit y and and elegant. elegant. The The left bank most most important important wine-growing wine-growing communes communes are are Worms, Worms, Liebfrauenstift, Guntersblum, Liebfrauenstift, Mettenheim, Mettenheim, Alsheim, Aisheim, Guntersblum, Oppenheim, Oppenheim,Nierstein, Nierstein,Mayence, Mayence,Bingen, Bingen,etc. etc. The TheNahe, Nahe,which whichisisaatributary tributaryof ofthe theRhine, Rhine,has hasgiven givenits its 994 994

WINE are produced is situated in the stocks. stocks.The Theregion regionwhere wherethey they are produced is situated in the slopes of the Carpathian upper upper valley valley of ofthe the Tisza Tisza on on the the slopes of the Carpathian Mountains. Mountains. white wines and a red wine Hungary Hungary also also produces dry dry white wines and a red wine called'Bull's called 'BuH'sblood'. Italy leads wine growing Italy. Italy.trllln ITALIE-- Except Exceptfor forFrance, France, Italy leads wine growing it produces. Apart from thevery many thequantity countriesin countries in thequantityit produces. Apart from theverymany thevariousregions varietiesofwineforeverydayconsumption, varîetiesofwineforeverydayconsumption. thevariousregions wines to offer. have haveexcellent excellentquality quality wines to offer. red wines Barolo, Barbaresco, Piedmont. Piedmonl. Here Here are are the the rcd wines Barolo, Barbaresco, Grinolino, Nebbiolo; the white Gattinara, Barbera, Freisa, Freisa, Gattinara, Grinolino, Nebbiolo; the white region of Asti there is a wine In the wines, Cortese, Gavi. wines, Gavi. In the region of Asti there is a wine grape, Moscato; and the famous Asti made madefrom from the the Muscat Muscat grape, Moscato; and the famous Asti made according to a process Spumante, Spumante, aa sparkling wine wine made according to a process with the mithode champenoise' which which has hasmuch much in common common with the méthode CIl/7m,peI10/.se sweet white wines of Cinqueterre Liguria. Liguria. Offers Offers the the dry dry or or sweet whîte wines Then there are the red near near La La Spezia, Spezia, and and of of Coronato. Coronato. Then there are the red wines wines of of Dolceacque. Oolceacque. pro' of highly reputed wines, Lombardy. Lombardy. Has Has aa number number of highly wines proSassello and Inferno' Grumello, Valtellina: in duced tire duced in the Valtellina: Grumello, and Inferno. wines from the banks of Lake There There are are light light red red and and ros6 rosé wines from the banks of Lake Pavia. around from Garda; Garda; Moscato Moscll. to from around Pa via. the white wines: Soave, Venetia Venetia (Veneto). (Veneto). Produces Produces the white wines: Soave, The red wines are ValCartizze; Prosecco, Gambellara, Gambellara, Prosecco. Carti.zze: The red wines are Valpolicella, Valpentena. policella, Valpentena. (Trento). Here we find dry whitb Upper Upper Adige Adige and and Trent Trent (Trenlo). Here we find dry white (Italian), and Traminer grapes, wines wines made made from from the the Riesling Riesling (Halian), and Tramîner grapes. red wines, are made from The Toreldego. and Marzemino Marzemino and Toreldego. The red wines, are made from grapes. Pinot black black Pinot which is the Italian wine of Chianti, Tuscany. fne nome Tuscany. home of Chianti, which is the Halian wine also the Brunello di best best known known outside outside the the country, country, also the Brunello di MontePulciano. and Montalcino Montalcino and M()Dl~ep,ul(~la·no. also produce a number of wellThe The other other regions of Italy also produce a num ber of welland the white Alba or red Lambrusco known known wines:1he wines: red Lambrusco and the white Alba or of Latium; the Marino of and Velletri and Marino Frascati, Velletri Emilia; the the Frascati, Emilia; Latium; the produced around Christi Lacrima Umbria; of Orvieto Orvieto of Umbria; Lacrima Christi produced around (a white wine) and Ischia wine. with Capri Capri (a Naples along along wÎth Naples white wine) and Ischia wine. white wines: the dessert wine'of red and and white Exiellent red Strtty. Excellent Sieily. wines: the dessert wine of Marsala. Excellent Muscat grapes famous Marsala. and the the famous Syracuse and Syracuse Excellent Muscat grapes Pantelleria. grow in of Pantelleria. in the island of the is!and grow Duchy produces fine dry white The Grand Grand Duchy Luxembourg -- The Luxell1l)cHu'g produces fine dry white pronounced bouquet; they bear a close wines noted noted for their their pronounced wines bouquet: they bear a close standard of proHigher Moselle. German Moselle. to German resemblance to resemblance Higher standard of prorecent years has led to a marked in wines duction these of duction of these wines in recent years has led to a marked and quantity. They are Riesling, in their quality and improvement in improvement quantity. They are Riesling, Elbing. and Elbing. Sylvaner and fourth in world production wine Portuguese wine production isis fourth Portugal -- Portuguese in world vins ordinaires, wines bearing an comprise importance. They importance. They comprise vins ordinaires, wines bearing an all, port and of al!, important of most important and, mosl d'origine and, appellation d'origine appellation port and Madeira. Madeira. of the same island in the produced is wine This wine is produced in the island of the Madeira. This Madeira. from is madesame It Africa. of coast the lies off name that name that lies off the coast of Africa. Il is made from Crete in 1418' This from imported stock vine Malvasia Malvasia vine stock imported from Crete in 1418. This eau-de-vie andundergoes a special witheau~de-vie wine isis muted mutedwi.lh dessert wine dessert and undergoes a steaming in induced by prolonged steaming process Înduced ageing process in -chambers (104" to 122F.). 50'C' temperature of 40'toto ioaatemperature treated to (104 ta 122°F.). easily recognisable by their englqareeasily theyare sweet, they Dryororsweet, Ory recognÎsable by their eogagused in cooking to enrich Madeira isisused aroma. Madeira ing, velvetyaroma. îng, În cooking to enrich mildness. and flavour with its sauces sauces flavour and mildness. wine' Made from sweet a Also The Moscatel Moscatel of Setubal.Aiso a sweet wine. The Made from amber-coloured wine, genbeautiful grapes, is a it Muscat Muscat grapes, it a beautiful amber-coloured wine, genproduced in the Setubal region, south of fruity.ItItisisproduced attdfruity. erousand erous in the Setubal regîon, south of Tagus. theTagus. the name does not refer to their (vinho The verde). Greinwines Green wines (vinho verde). The name does oot refer to their (there is red and white vinho verde); it is their lightness colour colour (there is red and white vinho verde); it is their lightness freshness that has led to their being called theiracidulous acidulousfreshness andtheir and that has led to their Green wines are cool.Green andcool. thus. They are drunk youngand thus. are between Minho in the north region produced in a demarcated produced belween Minho in the north

Catalonia. Catalonia. Roses Rosés and and clairets clairets from from Panadds. Panadès. The The 'tintos' 'tintos' (reds) (reds)also alsohave haveaagood goodreputation; repulation,Cugat Cugatisisknown knownfor forwhite white wines. wines. Tarragona. Tarragona. Here Herewe wefind nnd the thestrong strongred rcd wines winesof ofPriorato Priorato and andthe thelight, light,fruity, fruit y,white whitewines winesofofPeralada Peraladaand andAlella. Aldia. Levant. Levalll. There There are arethe the red red and and ros6 roséwines winesof ofRequena Requena and and Utiel; Utiel; inin Murcia, Murcia,we wefind fmd the thehighly highlyalcoholic alcoholicwines winesof ofYecla Yecla and andJumilla. Jumilla. Andalusia. Anda/usia. The Thered red wines winesof ofRota Rota and and the thedry dry white whitewines wines of Manzanilla and ofManzaniHa and Helva. Helva. The The Balearic 8alearicIslands Islands and andthe the Canary CanaryIslands. Islands. Also Aiso produce produce splendid, splendid, generous generous wines wines with with aa fine fine bouquet. bouquet. Malaga.Its Malaga. lis almost almost black black colour, colour, natural natural alcoholic alcoholic content content and and distinctive distinctive flavour t'lavour have have earned earned this this wine wine aa well-deserved well-deserved reputation. ItIt comes cornes principally principally from from Moscatel Moscatel and and Pedro' PedroXim6nez grapes. The The vines vines grow grow on on schistose schistose soil soil which which isis favourable for them. them. There There are are several several varieties varieties of of Malaga wine, wine, each each the the result result of ofaa special special manufacturing manufacturing and and blending process. process. White White Malaga, delicate and sweet, produced exclusively from from the the Pedro-Ximdnez vine vine stock; stock; dark dark red red Malaga, Malaga, produced produced from from aa blend blend of of white white Malaga Malaga and and aa cooked cooked wine, wine, arrope; arrope; Muscat Muscat Malaga; rancid rancid black black Malaga. Malaga. Sherry (Jerez (Jerez or or Xiris). This This famous famous wine winc is is produced produced in in the province of of Cadiz (Jerez (Jerez de la la Frontera). Frontera). The The principal principal vine vine stock is is the the Palomino, Palomino, close relation relation of of the the Savagnin Savagnin from which the yellow yellow wines wines of of Jura Jura are are produced. produced. VinificVinification ation is the same: grapes gathered gathered by successive successive selection selection and and pressed pressed when when they they are are almost crystallised. After After fermentation fermentation casks the and maturation for for several years years in in casKs the action action of of the the of the surface of skin to form yeast yeast causes a thin slùn forro on the surface the wine wine and and characteristic nutlike develop its chanlcteristÎc helps to develop nutlike flavour' flavour. being: known being: the best of sherry, sherry, the varieties of fhere are several several varieties There best known are first three The first Oloroso. The Manzanilla, Oloroso. Amontillado, Manzanilla, Fino, Amontillado, three are Oloroso is the most mellow and aaromatic. dry; 010roso ra matie. of regions of in many many regions produced in wines are are produced Moscatel. Moscate!. These wÎnes grapes muted muted muscat grapes of muscat on the musts of based on Spain. They are based producer. producer to to producer. from producer differ from varieties differ with alcohol. The varieties with in wines, mostly mostly in of sparkling sparkling wines, produces aa number number of Spain produces Spain in Panades; also also in del Panades; in Villafranca Villafranca dei and in Perzlada, and Catalonia, Perzlada. and in in the the Rioja region. Navarra and wine but but invent wine not invent did not The Greeks did Greece. GRÈCE cnice -- The Greece. as of time, time, as mists of goes far into the the mists far back back into viticulture in in Greece Greece goes viticulture Greek times Greek In ancient ancient times legends show. show. ln mythological tales tales and and legends mythological of land of in the the land today, in and, today, reputation; and, wines had very high reputation; had aa very wines produced Wine isis produced honour. Wine in high high honour. vine is he held Dionysus, the the vine Oionysus, Id in in and in in Crete, Crete, and Greek mainland, mainland, in provinces of of the the Greek in ail all the the provinces in an wines bear bear an great many of these these wines many of A great islands. A Aegean Islands. the Aegean the wines that that into IwO two categories:. wines fall into They fall appellation d'origÎne. d'origine. They appellation of wines of and wines of fermentation and whole process of undergo the the whole undergo alcohol. of a1coho\. by aa mutage of which the the fermentation ISis stopped by which of Santa Santa wines of dark red wines we find the the dark In the first category category we the first ln the then the Nemea; then and Nemea; Corfu and Maura, Euboea, Euboea, Paros, Paros, Crete, Corfu Maura, Patras, Messenia, Olympia, Patras, wines of Messenia, white, red ros6 wines dry white, red or or rosé dry

Zante, Thira, Cephalonia'Zante, Crete, Tbira, Attica,Euboea, Euboea, Crete, Tripolis, Anica,

Samos. Macedonia, Samos. Ithaca, Macedonia. wefind find wines, we sweet wines, thatofnatural of natural sweet second category, category, that Inthe thesecond In wines Muscat wines the Muscat and the Samosand Muscatof ofSamos world-renowned Muscat theworld-renowned the the arethe there are these,there Besides these, ofPatras Patras and andof of Cephalonia. Besides of and Islands and Ionian Islands ttreIonian Pelopennese,the winesof sweetwines ofCrete, Crete, thePclopennese, sweet mavrodaphni. themavrodaphni. the was369,000 369,000 wineswas appellation wines Production of regulationappellation ofregulation Production productionofof yearthe theproduction sameyear forthe thesame whilefor hectolitresinin1958, 1958;while hectolitres hectolitres. vinsordinaires rosetoto 3,334,410 ordinairerrose vins 10 hectolitres. reputation. ItIt worldwide rcputation. hasa awor!dwide Hungary.HONGRIE HoNcRIE - - Tokayhas and strongand mellow,strong beingtoo toomellow, without beîng sweetwithout isis full-bodied,sweet possiblealmost almostatat pickedasaslate lateasaspossible grapesare arepicked aromatic.The Thegrapes aromaLÏc. vine Muscat vine andMuscat Furmint and fromthe theFurmint crystallisationstage stagefrom crystallisation

0

995 995

WINE WINE andDouro Douroininthe productivevines thesouth. south.The Theproductive vinesare areunusual unusualinin and thatthey theyare areIrained trainedon onliving livingsupports, supports,inintrellises trellisesand and that espaliers, not notininvineyards vineyards but buton onthe theborders bordersofoffields fieldsand and espaliers, roads. roads. Finally, there thereare arethe thedeliciou$ deliciousfragrant fragrantred redwines winesof of _Finally, Colareson onthe theslopes slopesof ofthe theBay BayofofTagus. Tagus,and andthe thered redand and Colares whitewines winesof ofthe theDao. Ddo. white Rumania. ROUMANIE-ln RouMANTE - Inaagood goodyear yearwine production isisinin wineproduction Rumanis. theregion region of of55toto66million million hectolitres hectolitres for foraawine-growing wine-growing area area the of250,000 250,000hectares. hectares.This Thiscomprises comprises 30 percent 30 per centsuperior superior of winesand and 70 percent 70per centvins vinsordinaires. ordinaires. wines most important important Rumanian Rumanianvineyards vineyards are (for white are(for white The .The most wines): Murfatlar, Murfatlar,Vales ValesTâmavelor, Tdrnavelor,Drâgâsâni, DrigAsdni, Odobesli. bdobesti, wines): Nicoresti, Muscel, Husi, Husi, Teremia, Teremia, Diosig; Diosig; white white wincs prewinespreNicoresti., dominate too too inin Cotnar and and Dealul Dealul Mare; Mare; Sarica-Niculitel Sarica-Nicuiitel dominate produces red red wines. wines. produces Swifzerland. SUISSE surssE -- Vineyards Vineyards cover cover an an area area of of approxiapproxiSwitrerland. mately 13,000 13,000hectares. hectares. Annual Annual production production isis inin the the iegion mately of 750,000 hectolitres. hectolitres. White White wines predominate especiall-y in wines predominate in of750,OOO French and and Italian Italian Swirzerland. Switzerland. The The country produces country produces French mostly vins ordinaires; ordinaires; ilit has has few few recognised recogni sedappellations. appeilailons. IlIt isis mos!!y vins the latter latter that that we we shall shall examine examine here. here. the The most most extensively grown white grape isis Chasselas Chasselas or The or Fendant; Riesling Riesling and and Sylvaner are also also used. The The red grapes red grapes Fendant; are the black black Pinot Pinot and and the the Gamay; Gamay; als.o also MerJot Merlot and and Syrah. Syrah. are the great wine-growi The great wine-growing regions of of Switzerland Switzerland are are the the The ng regions cantons of of Vaud, Vaud, Valais, Valais, Neuchâtel Neuchdtel and and Geneva. Geneva, German German cantons Switzerland, Grisons Grisons and (Tessin). and Ticlno Ticino (Tessin). SWÎtzerland, The Canton Canton of of Vaud Vaud is is the the largest of of the the wine,growing The an area area of of 3,600 hectares and producing and f'ln'"\rlll1rlnO" cantons, covering an 91lt9l!,covering 100,000 to to 300,000 300,000 hectolitres. hectolitres. It It isis divided divided into into four rCgions: regions: 100,000 La C6te. The The steep steep slopes slopes between between Geneva and and Lausanne Lausanne La CÔN!. produce dry white white wines, wines, light light and and fresh fresh and and often often,moustilproduce dry 'mouslil(sparkling) from lants' from the vineyards of of Beguins, Beguins, Luins, Ils , (sparkling) the vineyards lm perroy, Bougy and Bursins, Vinzel, Mont, Mont, Malessert, and Féchy F6chy Bursins, Vinze!, Malessert, Perroy, in the and Aubonne are the in the Rolle Rolle and Aubonne districts. districts. Beyond these are thi more of Morges, Saint-prex, Lonay more gentle genlle slopes slopes of Morges, Sainl-Prex, Lonay and Echandens. Echandens. Lavaux. Lavau.x, This This region, situated situated to to the the east cast of of Lausanne, Lausanne, produces produœs wines wines made from from the the Chasselas Brape, grape, full-bodied, glowing, well-rounded glowing, well-rounded wines wines of of which which the most esteemed is Dbzaley. Dézaley. The The most most important important wine-growing centres are Vilette, Vilelte, Grandvaux, Grandvaux, Cully, CuUy, Riez, Riez, Epesses, Rivaz, SaintSaphorin, Saphorin, Chardonne, Chardonne, Vwey. Vevey. Chablais. Chablais. Situated Situ3ted in in the the Rh6ne Rhône valley valley on 00 the the north north bank, bank, Chablais Chablais Vaudois Vaudois produces produces dry dry white white wines, wines, distinguished distinguished wines wines with wilh aa fine fine bouquet. The The principal principal centres centres a.e are iuorne, Yvorne, Aigle and and Villeneuve. Villeneuve" Wines from from the the black black pinot Pinot grup" grape ur. are produced f'I.,'"\I'\",,..e'''' in in Aigle Ajgle and and Villeneuve. Villeneuve. Jura. Jura Delicate Delicate white white wines wines of of Arnex, Arncx, Orbe, Orbe, Rances, Rances, Champvent, Champvent, Montagny, Montagny, Granson, Granson, Champagne, Champagne, Bonvillars Bonvillars and and Coneise. Coneise. The Thewine-growing wine-growingarea areaof ofValais Valaisisis the the second second largest largest in in the the country country covering covering an an area area of of 3,000 3.000 hectares hecrares and and with with an an average average production production in in the the region of200,000 of 200,000 hectolitres. hectolitres. ItIl isis situated situaledfor for the themost mostpart parton onthe right right bank bankof ofthe theRh6ne Rhônewith with the the Bernese Berneseand andValaisan Valaisan Alps Alpsprotecting protectingitilfrom from the thewinds. winds. The whitewines winesproduced producedfrom from the theFendant Fendantgrape grapeare arefullfull_ Thewhite bodied bodiedand andage agewell. weil. They Theyare areproduced produœdin inSion, Sion,Sierre, SicTfe, Fully Fully and and Martigny, Martigny, Leytron. Leylron_ Among Among the the named named vineyards vineyards arl are Mont-d'Or, Mont-d'Or, Molignon, Molignon, Ravaney, Ravaney, Uvrier, Uvrier, Coquemprey the the claives claive5 and and the the bazs. ban.s. Besides Besides the the Fendant Fendant wines. wines, Valais produces produces Malvoisie, Malvoisie, Ermitage, Ermitage, Johannisberg, Johannîsberg, and and dried dried Muscat" MuscaL Dôle produces produces aa strong strong red red wine wine with with aa pronounced pronounced _ D6le bouquet made mademainly mainlyfrom fromthe theblack blackpinot Pinotgrape. grape. The wine-growing wioe-growingdistrict districtof ofthe theNeuchdtel Neuchâtelcanton cantoncovers covers 850 850hectares heclaresand andproduces producesan anaverage averageof70,000 of70,000hectolitres. hectolitres.Itft 996 996

isissituated situatedon onLake LakeNeuchàlel. Neuchitel. The Thewhite whitewines winesare arelively, livelv. light lightand 'fontl'étoile' and'font (makestars) I'dtoile'(make stars)when whenthey po.rred. theyare arepoured. Their 'pierre à/usi/' (tlinly) laste Their'pierre hfusil'(flinty) tasteand andtheir theirsparklîng quality sparklingquality combine combine10tomake make them themvery veryattractive attractive wines. wines.The Thered redwines, wines, and pinot andone oneof ofthe thebest bestisisCortaillod, Cortaillod,come comefrom fromthe theblack blackPinot grape;Oeil grupe; Oeilde dePerdrix Perdrix (partridge's (partridge's eye) eye)isisalso alsoderived derivedfrom from barely barelyfermented fermented black blackPinol Pinot grapes. The Thewine-growing wine-growing district district ofthe thecanton cantonof ofGeneva Genevacovers covers an anarea areaof ofabout about 1,000 1,000 hectares. hectares. ItIt isisdivided dividedbetween betweenthe the Genoese Genoese Petite Petite Côte, C6te,the theCôte C6tedu duMandement Mandement and and the the commune of Satignyon onthe theright right bank bank of ofthe the Rhône. Rh6ne.There There are also vineyards on on the the left left bank bankof of the the Léman, L6man, between between Hermance Hermance and Coligny_ Colienv. The come from The whÎte white wines wines-come from the Fendant grape; grape; the theFendant the red red from from the the Pinot Pinot and and Gamay. Gamay. The The vineyards vineyards of of the the German German cantons, cantons, allhough although smal1er smaller than than those those of of French French SwitzerJand. Switzerland, also produce excellent also produce excellent wines. wines. In In the the Bernese Bernese Oberland Oberland there there are are the the Chasselas Chasselas wines wines of of the the banks banks of of Lake Lake Biel, Biel, also also the theSchafiser Schafiser and and the the Twanoer, Twanner, the the black black Pinot Pinot and and the the Riesling-Sylvaner Riesling-Sylvaner from from the the shores shores of of Lake Lake Thun. Thun. Aargau produces wines Aargau produces wines made made from from Riesling-Sylvaner. Riesling-sylvaner. Red Red wines wines inc111de include Herrenberg, Herrenberg, Schartenfels, Schartenfels, Golwandler. Golwiindler. The The canton canton of of Thurgau Thurgau produces produces well-known well-known red red and and white white wines wines al at the the Carthusian Carthusian monastery monastery of of Jttingen Ittingen and and at at Château Chiteau Arenenberg. Arenenberg. The The town town of of Schaffhausen Schaffhausen oA'crs offers aa first first c1ass quality class qua1ity 'Tokay' and 'Tokay' and excellent excellent black black Pinot Pinot wines. wines. The The wines wines on on the the shores of Lake Lake Zurich Zurich yield flavoursome flavoursome fruily fruity wines, wines, white white pinot) from (Riesling-Sylvaner) and red red (black Pinot) from the the vineyards of of Shipfgut, Shipfgut, Sternenhalde, Sternenhalde, Lattenberg, Lattenberg, Stammleim, Shiterberg. Shiterberg. A low-fermentation red light-coloured and A low-fermentation red wine, wine, light-coloured and mousli/moustilJan! produced in in Graubünden (sparkling) is lant (sparkling) is produced Graubiinden (Grisons) at at Schiller. There is also aa Chur, Zizers, Trimmins. It is called called Schiller. There is famous famous red Pinot wine wine produced in in Herrschaft. Herrschaft. ln the TîcÎno (Tessin) Valley, Valley, the the vines vines are are planted planted on on the the In Ticino (Tessin) shores of Lakes Maggiore Maggîore and and Lugano. Lugano. Here Here we we get fullfu\!shores flavoured white wines made from from Chasselas Chasselas and and S6millon flavoured grapes. The The Bourdeaux Bourdeaux Merlot Meriot vine vine stock stock produces produces aromatic aromatîc red wines, wines, rounded rounded and and glowing. We We must must not no! forget the the local local red red wine wine which whîch is is tending tending to to take the the place place of of Merlot. V.S.S,R. -- The wine-growin wine-growing of the the Soviet Soviet Union Union U.S.S.R. g area area of exceeded aa million million hectares hectares in in 1960 1960 and and boasted boasled aa production production exceeded of 7,500,000 7,500,000 hectolitres hectolitres of of wine. wine. of The great great viticultural viticultural regions of of the the U.S.S.R. U.S.S,R. are: are: Russia, Russia, The Ukraine, Uzbekistan, Uzbekisran, Kazakhstan, Georgian Georgian SSR, SSR, Ukraine, Azerbaijan SSR, SSR, Moldavian Moldavian SSR, SSR, Kirghizia, Kirghizia, Tadshik Tadshik SSR, SSR, Azerbaijan Armenian Armenian SSR, SSR. Turkmen Turkmen SSR. SSR. Cuhivation is is divided divided between between sovkhoz sovkhoz and and kokhoz kokhoz (col(colCultivation lective lective farms) farms) grouped grouped in in large large wine-producing wîne-producing .combines' 'combines' which which are are under under the thejurisdiction jurîsdiction of ofaa Ministry. Minislry. rnostly white white and and sparkling sparkling wines wines that Ihat are are produced; produced; Itft isis mostly production production of ofthe the latter latterreaching 32,g00,000 32,800,000 bottlei boules in in 195g. 1958. YU2m.lal{ja. youcosI-Avrn YOUGOSLA VlE --- The average average wine wine production produclion Yugoslavia. in ln aa vinicultural area area of of272,000 272,000 hectares hectares varies varies bitween between 3.5 3·5 and 4.5 4·5 million million hectolitres hecmlitres apart apart from from exceptional exceptional years years like like and whenititreached reached 5,759,000 5,759,000hectolitres. hectolitres. 1958when 1958 The principal wine-producing wine-producing regions are are Croatia, Croatia, which which The accountsfor half the production, production.then ininorder orderofofimportance, accounts importance, Siovenia,Macedonia, Macedonia,Bosnia-Hercegovina, Bosnia-Hercegovina,Montenegro. Montenegro. Slovenia, The dry dry white white wines wines of of Slovenia Slovenia are are worth worth mentioning. mentioning. The are: Traminer, Traminer, Fermint, Fermint, Sauvignon. Sauvignon. The Thered red wines winesof of They are: Dalmatia are aremuch muchesteemed. esteemed. AMERICA

United states. States. trot**Xt1tif;" ÉTATS-UNIS - The turr"rt largest wine-producing wine-producing united

WITLOOF WITLOOF ordinaires ordi.naires and and are are mainly mainly for for exportation. exportation. Red Red wines wines prepredominate: dominate; there there are are also also Muscat Muscat wines wines and and vermouths. vermouths. The The principal principal wine-growing wine-growing regions are are Oujda, Oujda, Fds, Fès, Meknds, Meknès, Rabat, Rabat, Casablanca, Casablanca, Marrakesh. Tunisia. Tumsis. TuNISIE TU]\''lSŒ -- Average Average production production isis around around lf li million million hectolitres. hectolitres. Vins Vins ordinaires ordinaires account account for for most most of of the the proproduction, duction, but but there there are are also also some sorne excellent excellent 'quality'wines 'q uality' wines and and more more particulady particularly sweet sweet wines, wines, Muscats. Muscats. The The appellation appellatiol! contrillde'Muscat con/rôlée 'Muscat de de Tunisia', Tunisia', was was accoraccorded ded in in 1959. 1959. The The other other appellations appellations d'origine d'origine are are held held by by the the Thibar. Rhadds. Muscat Muscat wines wines of ofThibar, Rhadès, Kelibia. Kelibia.

area area of of the the United Uniled States Stales is is California: . itil accounts accounts for for fourfour-

fifths fifths of of vine-growing vine-growing country. country. In In 1959, Californian Californian proproduction duction rose rose to to 5,532,410 5,532,410 hectolitres hectolitres or or 209,402,345 209,402,345 gallons gallons (total (tolal American Arnerican wine wÎne production 6,303,430 6,303,430 hectolitres hectolitres or or 238,585,531 238.585,531 gallons.) gallons.) The other other wine-producing wine-producing regions regions are are

New New York York State, State, New New Jersey, Jersey, Illinois, Illinois, Michigan Michigan and and Washington Washington State. State. The The United United States States produces apdritifwines, red red wines, wines, ros6s rosés and and white white table table wines, wines, dessert wines and and sparkling sparkling wines. wines. There There are are no no appellations appellatiolls d'origine. American American wines wines often often borrow borrow their their names names from from those those of of European European wines wines which whîch they they daim to (0 resemble resemble (port, (port, sherry, Chablis, Burgundy, Burgundy, ChamChamclaim pagne, pagne, etc.). etc.). Occasionally Occasionally they they adopt the the name name of of the the vine stock stock from from which which they they come come (and, fortunately, this is becoming becoming more more and and more more the the rule); these are Cabernet, Pinot Noir, Noir, Gamay, Gamay, Traminer, Traminer, Riesling, etc. country covers Argentins. ARGENTINE ARGENTINE - The wine-growing '''"'''''_.on''\un Argentina. an area area of of 230,000 230,000 hectares, hectares, the principal region being an hectares. In 1958, the Mendoza, Mendoza, covering covering more than 150,000 1 tOlal vintaging of of 14,041,437 hectolitres hcctolitres was was divided divided as as total follows: vins ordinaires, ordinaires. 11,365,789 Il.365,789 hectolitres; hectolitres; fine fine wines, wines, follows: 1,213,248 hectolitres;; special wines, 1,462,400 1,462,400 hectolitres. l,2l 3,248 hectolitres wine legislation The Argentine has has an an embryonic ernbryonîc system system of ofwine legislation The Argentine of . . .'' the denomination denomination of of 'Wine from from the the region region of. using the of origin. These wines must not followed by the province of not be be followed diluted or mixed with witn the wine wine of other regions. diluted The area Brazil. Bran!. nnfstr BRÉSIL -area allotted alloued to to wine-growing was - The 1960, with 63,000 hectares hectares in in 1960, wi th a a production production of 1,230,000 63,000 wines. of which were red wines, two-thirds of hectolitres, two-thirds denominations tbe denominations In Brazil the appellatioitr correspond to the vine least of the principal of the vine stock growths used llsed (at !east princIpal vine of which is laid down by the law). For stocks, the proportion of For at Merlot, at Trebbiano, Malvazia, Malvazia, Riesling, the Riesling. MerIot, the appellations appellatiozs Trebbiano, at least 60 per cent; Barbara, at least 50 per cent; Moscatel, at least 35 percent. of 44 region of production is is in in the the region Chile. CH1U cHILI -- Average production Cllile. (figures of of I12,000 hectares (figures million hectolitres for an area of 112,000 being red wines. 1960), 70 per cent being productive regions are ",a,,,,,,,!".,.}, Santiago, O'Higgins The principal productive Talca; Lr-narEs and Maule; and Conchagua; CUrlCÔ Curic6 and Talca; and Apart from a few large Bio-Bio. Apart and Bio-Bio. Nuble, Conœpcion Concepcion and Nubie, (average 3 are very broken uup vineyards are domains, the Chilean Chilean vineyards domains, p (average hectares). The wine-growing area of Mexico Mexico. MEXIQUE MHfleuE -- The Merico. wine average wine 12,000 hectares in 1960. The average an area area of of 12.000 covered an (only 25 per 25 per production then was aboul about 60,000 60,000 hectolitres (only then was production wine). Mexican into wine). made into are made cent of the the grapes cultivated cultivated are cent wines, white table table wines, red and and white between red wines are are divided between wines wine 'generous' types of wine (vermouth) and types of and 'generous' aromatized wines wines (vermouth) aromatized sparkling also some some sparkling There are are also Moscatel, sherry, such as as Moscatel, sherry, port. There such produced. wines produced. wines

ASIA ASIA

Iran Iran - Notwithstanding Notwithstandîng the the fact fact that that Iran Iran is is supposed supposed to to be be the birthplace of of the the vine vioe and and despite despite all ail the the songs songs of of praise praise the birthplace Persian Persian poets poets have have dedicated dedic3ted to 10 their their wine, wine. production production is is quite quite small, small, due due mainly mainly to to the the interdiction interdiction of of the the Moslems. Moslems. produced, Raisin Raisin wine wine is is the the most mOSI common common of of what what wine winc is is produced, but vineyards cultivate but most most of of the the 75,000 75,000 hectares hectares of ofvineyards cul tiva te dessert dessert grapes. $apes. Israel. Israel. tsuEr lSRAËL -- In ln Israel, Israel, too, too, most most of of the the grapes produced are are destined destined for for the the table. ta ble. Average wine production is 200,000 hectolitres an area area of of 3,500 3,500 hectares. A A large large part part ofthis of this hectolitres for for an consists consists of of 'kosher'wine 'kosher' wine much much of of which which is îs exported exponed to to Jewish Jewish communities communities in in Europe. Europe. Lebanon. area of Lcbanol'l. LrBAN LIBAN - The The wine-growing wine-growing area of the the Lebanon Lebanon covers 24,000 hectares. of the co vers approximately 24,000 hectares. Most Most of the proproetc.) and and duction is devoted dessert or dried grapes duction devoted to to dessert or dried grapes (raisins, (raisins, etc.) grape wine production grape juice. juice. Actual Actual wine production amounts amounts to 10 little liule more more than than 35.000 35,000 hectolitres. Asian large part of of the Asian Russia. Russia. RUSsTE RUSSIE D'AsrE D'ASIE -- A A large the Russian Russian vineyards are situated continent of Asia in situated in vineyards are in the the contÎoent in the the regions regions of Turkestan Turkestan and and the Caucasus. of Turkey. TURQlnE ruReurE --- Although of the 700,000 hectares hectares Turkey. Although most most of the 700,000 grapes given over cultivation ofdessert ofdessert grapes over to to the the cultivation are given ofvineyards are ofvineyards (more than grapes (more (580,000 tons 100,000 than 100,000 tons in and dried dried grapes (580,000 in 1960) 1960) and production of of annual wine wine production has an an average average annual tons). Ions). Turkey has 250,000 hectolitres. in the the wines in 'quality' wines are 'quality' there are Besides the vins vfns ordinaires ordinaires there Besides the Bozcaada, Miirefte, Bozcaada, Tekirgad, Mürefte, following appellations: lzrnir, Tekirgad, ap pellations : Izmir, following Antep. Ankara, Tokat, Tokat, Elazig, Elazig, Antep. Ankara, AUSTRALASIA AUSTRALAS1A

and production between between 1I and Average production Australia. AUSTRALIE AUsTRALIE -- Average Australia. The Britain. The to Britain. is exported exported to this Is Part of of this l| million million hectolitres. hectolitres. Part H South New South Australia. New principal vinicultural is South South Australia. area is vinicultural area principal follow. and Queensland follow. Victoria, Western Western Australia Australia and Wales, Victoria, Wales, to applied to Name applied BIcoRNEAU -- Name PERIWINKLE. BIGORNEAU WINKLE or or PERIWINKLE. WINKLE genus Liuorina, which Littorina, which gastropod molluscs of the the genus molluscs of many small small gastropod many the Antarctic to to the Arctic and and Antarctic from the the ArctÎc occurs on coasts from on ail all coasts oœurs equator. equator. with aa brown brown mollusc, with France this this mollusc, In various various regions regions of of France ln by called by operculum, Îsis called with aa corneous corneous operculum, coloured spiral spiral shell shell with coloured in or vignelle, vignette, in vignot or called vignot in Brittany Brittany ilit isis caUed differentt names: names: in differen guignette. mer or or guigne/le. de mer in Aunis Aunis escargot escargot de Normandyy brelin brelin and and in Normand have been been farms have winkle farms Auray region region winkle At Croisic in the Croisic and and in the Auray At where winkles winkles are are cultivated. cultivated. set up up where set Comcalled the the Comwinkles called of winkles In France an order order of France there there isis an In its was one one of of ils pagnons du Churchill was Winston Churchill Sir Winston du bigorneau. bigornean. Sir pagnons most illustrious illustrious members. members. most be they can can be raw, but but Ihey eaten raw, winkles are are eaten Generally speaking wink.les Generally its from ils extracted from mollusc isis extracted it. the eat il, the mollusc cooked like cockles. To eat cooked pin. shell with with aa pin. shell

AFRICA AFRICA

the of the vineyards of The vineyards DU SUD suD -- The Africa. AFRIQUE AFRIQUE DU South Africll.. South Province' Cape Province. in Cape Africa are are situated situated in Republic of of South South Africa Republic hectolitres. million hectolitres. to 31 3| million region of of 33 to Production isis in in the the region Production (rather fullfullwines (rather white table table wines red and and white The wines wines are mostly red The are mostly wines of wines consist of latter consisi The latter wines'. The bodied ones) ones) and and'fortified bodied 'fortilied wines', of strength of ('Cape ports') ports') with an a1coholic alcoholic slrength port ('Cape with an similar to to port similar (South African sherries). African sherries). wines (South sherry-type wines 18° to 20°, 20', sherry-type l8'to wines. of sparklîng sparkling wines, number of Africa also also produces aa number South Africa South ALGERIA. Algeria. ALGÉ.RlE l'I.c6nre-- See ALGERIA. AJgeria. of north of in the the north lie in vineyards lie The Egyptian Egyptian vineyards Egypt. EGYPTI EGyprE -- The Egypt. production isis not not Wine production delta. Wine Nile delta, the counlry, country, west west of of the the NiJe the are mentioning are (about 30,000 Worth mentioning hectolitres). Worth very large large (about 30,000 hectolitres). very (white), 'Ptolemy' (white), wines: 'Ptolemy' following vineyards vineyards and and their their wines: the following the (white),'Clos Matamix' (red). the'Clos Mariout' (white), 'Clos Mariout' 'Clos Matamix' the region production isis in the the region wine production Annual wine Morocco. MAROCulnoc - Annua] Morocco. vins the wines wines are are vins all of of the 2t million million hectolitres. to 2~ hectolitres. Almosi Almost aIl of 22 10 of

prepared as as Spiny Sptny (A LA) lobster prepared LA) -- Spiny Spiny lobster WINTERTHUR (À WINTE.RTHUR with but stuffed stuffed with (see SPINY LOBSTER), but lobster cardinal SPINY LOBSTER), cardinal (see lobs/er (q.v.) of lobster. spiny lobstcr. of spiny peeled shrimps well as as aa salpicon salpicon (q.v.) shrimps as as weil peeled (See cellars. (See blanched inin cellars. endive blanched WITLOOF -- Belgian Belgian endive WITLOOF ENDIVE. CHICORY,) CHICORY.) ENDIVE, 997 997

wooDcocK minutes. minutes.Cut Cutititinto piecesand intopieces putthem andput theminto intoa abuttered buttered casserole casseroleororlow-sided low-sidedterrine, terrine,arranging arrangingthem pyramid. theminina apyramid. Cover Coverthe thecasserole. casserole.Keep Keephot hotonona ahot-plate hot-plate-without without allowing allowingtotoboil. boil. juicesininwhich Dilute Dilutethe thejuices whichthe thewoodcock woodcockwas wascooked cookedwith witha a sm ail glass glassofofpreviously small previouslyflamed flamedfine fineChampagne Champagnebrandy. brandy. Add Addthe thechopped chopped intestines, intestines, blended blendedwith withthe theblood bloodleft leftfrom from pressing pressingthe thecarcase carcaseand andthe thetrimmings, trimmings,1Itablespoon tablespoonconconcentrated centratedgame gamestock stockboiled boileddown downtotothe theconsistency consistencyofofa a fumet (q.v.) and a dash of lemonjuice. Season with a pinch frmet (q.v.) and a dash of lemon juice. Season with a pinchofof cayenne cayennepepper. pepper. Pour Pourthis thissauce sauceover overthe thewoodcock woodcockand and reheat reheatwithout withoutallowing allowingitittotoboil. boil. Woodcock prepare, Woodcockau auCalvados. Calvados. BÉCASSE ntclssnAU AUCALVADOS cALvADos- -Prepare, using usingCalvados, Calvados,asasdescribed described ininthe recipefor therecipe forWoodcock Woodcoik inin brandy fine Champagne). brandy(à( dlalafine Champagne ). Woodcock lVoodcock inlncasserole casserole or orcocotte. cocotte.BÉCASSE sfcA,ssnEN rt.rCASSEROLE, cAssERoLE. EN EN COCOTTE cocorrt - -Truss Truss the thewoodcock woodcockasasfor foran anentrée, entrCe,cover coverwith withaa thin of bacon or salt pork, put into a casserole in which thinrasher rasher of bacon or salt pork, put into a casserole in which sorne some butter butterhas hasbeen beenheated, heated, season, season,and andcook cook ininthe theoven oven from from 15 15to to 18 18minutes, minutes, basting bastingfrequently. frequently. Drain Drainand andremove remove trussing trussing string. string.Put Putininthe thecasserole casserole aadash dashof ofbrandy brandyand andaafew few tablespoons tablespoons concentrated concentratedgame gamestock stockboiled boileddown down totoaa consistency of a fumet (q.v.), or use thickened brown gravy. consistency of a fumet (q.v.), or use thickened brown gravy. Put Put the the woodcock woodcock back back in in the thecasserole. casserole. As As usual usual with with roast roast woodcock, woodcock, serve servethe thetrail trail atatthe thesame same time. time. This This can can either either be put underneath be put underneath the the bird bird inin the the casserole or served separately. For the preparation of trail, casserole or served separately. For the preparation of trail, see see recipe recipe for forRoast (see below). Roast woodcock woodcock (see below). Woodcock Woodcock au au Chambertin. Chambertin. BÉCASSE nfc,q,ssr AU AU CHAMBERTIN cHAMBERrlr..r- - AA kind shed with kind of of salmi, salmi, which which can garnished can be be garni with truffies truffies and and mushrooms. mushrooms. Truss Truss aa woodcock woodcock as as for for an an entrée entrte and and cook cook in in the the oven oven from from 88 to to 10 l0 minutes. minutes. Divide Divide itit into pieces. Remove into pieces. Remove the the intestines intestines and and keep keep two-thirds two-thirds to prepare the to prepare the rôtie, r6tie, and and the the rest for thickening the sauce. rest for thickening the sauce. Put Put the pieces of the pieces of woodcock woodcock into into aa buttered buttered serving serving dish, dish, cover cover with with sliced sliced truffies trufres and and mushrooms, mushrooms, the latter lightly the latter lightly tossed tossed in in butter. butter. Keep Keep hot hot without without allowing allowing to boil. Chop to boil. Chop up up the the carcase carcase and and ail all the trimmings. Put the trimmings. Put them into aa chambertin them into chambertin wine sauce prepared in the following manner: wine sauce prepared in the following manner: Brown consisting of Brown in in butter butter aa mirepoix, mirepoix,consisting of half half aa carrot carrot and and half 25 g. half an an onion onion cut cut into into dice, g. (1 (l oz.) dic,e,2S raw lean oz.) raw lean ham, ham, aa sprig sprig of thyme and a piece ofbay leaf. Moisten with 3 dl. (-! pint, of thyme and a piece of bay leaf. Moisten with 3 dl. ({ pint, Ii 1} cups) cups) Chambertin Chambertin wine. wine. Boil Boil down down completely. completely. Moisten Moiiten with with 2-! (scant -!I pint, 2| dl. dl. (scant pint, generous generous cup) (see SAUCE) cup) Demi-glace Demi-glaie (see SAUCE) based on based game fwnet (q.v.). on aa gamefumet (qx .). Simmer Simmer for for 20 20 minutes. minutes. Add Add to to this sauce the chopped carcase and trimmings of the this sauce the chopped carcase and trimmings of the woodwoodand a sm ail glass of previously flamed brandy. Rub cock cock and a small glass of previously flamed brandy. Rub through a a fine fine sieve. onethrough sieve. Put Put back back on on the the heat, heat, bind, bind, using using onethird of of the the intestines intestines rubbed as a liaison. third rubbed through through aa fine fine sieve, sieve, as a liaison. Add a a tablespoon tablespoon butter pour over Add butter and and pour pieces of over the the pieces of woodcock. Heat Heat over over aa low low heat heat without it to boil. woodcock. without allowing allowing ii to boil. Serve with the rôtie made with the rest of the intestines. Serve with the rdtie made with the rest of the intestines. Chaud-froid of ofwoodcock. BÉCASSE EN CHAUD-FROID - Cook Chaud-froid woodcock. sfcAssr sN cHAUD-FRoro - Cook the woodcock woodcock in in the the oven, oven, leaving leaving itit slightly slightly under-done. Cut the under-done. Cut in pieces and remove the skin. Coat them with brown brown Chaudin pieces and remove the skin. Coat them with Chaudfroid sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on concentrated concentrated game game stock. froid stock. Decorate each each piece piece with with slices slices of of trufres, truffies, white white of hard Decorate of hard boiled eggs, eggs, salt salt beef beef tongue tongue or or cooked cooked ham, ham, and glaze glaze with boiled and with jelly. Allow Allow to to cool cool thoroughly. thoroughly. (See (See CHAUD-FROID.) jelly. CHAUD-FR0ID.) Arrange the pieces of woodcock either on a foundation of Arrange the pieces of woodcock either on a foundation of well-setjelly, or on on aa buttered buttered crotton. croûton. Garnish with chopped jelly, or well-set Garnish with chopped jelly. jelly. Woodcock à la crème. BÉCASSE À LA CRÈME - prepare Prepare the Woodcock i la crdme. sfcA,ss A rl cntrvre the woodcock as as described described in in the the preceding preceding recipe.-After removwoodcock recipe. After removing the trussing string, put the bird back in the casserole, ing the trussing string, put the bird back in the casserole, dash of of brandy brandy and add a few tablespoons sprinkle with with aa dash sprinkle and add a few tablespoons thick fresh fresh cream. cream. Simmer Simmer in in the the oven for a few moments. thick oven for a few moments.

Woodcock Woodcock

WOODCOCK. BÉCASSE nfc,mse -- The The woodcock WOODCOCK. woodcock isis considered considered the the best winged winged game. game. ItIt isis aa migra migratory best tory bird, goes to bird, and and goes to France France about the the end end of of September September and about and stays stays the the whole whole winter, winter, its its mating season. season. In In Great Gieat Britain Britain itit isisaa'classified, mating 'classified' game game bird bird and can can only only be be shot, shot, in in season, season, from and from September September to to January. January. Towards the the end end of of February February itit flies Towards to its flies back back-to its land land of of origin. origin. There are are three three varieties varieties of There of woodcock; woodcock; the the large large which which isis the size size of of aa medium-sized medium-sized partridge, partridge, the the the medium medium and and the the small. small. People who who like like eating eating woodcock People woodcock insist insist that that itit should should be be cooked undrawn. undrawn. Only gzzafi,has cooked has to Only the the gizzard to be be removed. removed. The woodcock, woodcock, they The they say, say, being being insect-eating insect-eating and and berryberryeating, should should not not be rushes, blackeating, be drawn drawn any any more more than than th thrushes, blaclirails or garden-warbler, for or the the garden-warbler, birds, rails for its its full full flavour flavour to to be be appreciated. appreciated. But there there are are sorne people who But some people who hold hold the the view view that that is difficult woodcock is difficult to to digest, digest, indeed indeed harmful harmful to to health, health, especially when it is prepared prepared as especially (q.v.). This as aa salmis (q.v.). This opinion opinion is erroneous, the gourmets assure is erroneous, the gourmets assure us, particularly where us, particularly where sound woodcock is is concerned, concerned, that that is, is, birds birds which which are are not not excessively high. Allowing Ailowing winged or ground game to get get too high is quite wrong gastronomically gastronomically and is often ne out ofien do done out of of snobbery. Game Game which which has has reached reached the the state state of of decomposition position is difficult to digest and often even toxic. Some rôtie, which is usually prepared by Sorne decry the use of r6tie, spreading pieces of fried bread with the bird's trail (i.e. the trail (i.e. the intestines) chopped up finely, finely, blended with a little chopped bacon bacon fat or or foie foie g'r4r, gras, strengthened with a dash of of brandy, seasoned seasoned with salt and and pepper and and flavoured flavoured with spi ces. spices. Gourmets, Gourmets, however, however, consider consider woodcock woodcock and and the the trail, which is one of of the most succulent succulent morsels. morsels. is normally normally served served with with it, it, one Pierre Pierre Belon Belon wrote: wrote: 'The woodcock woodcock has has plenty plenty of rich fat. fat. It sharpens sharpens one's one's discernment discernment of of the the wines; wines; those those who are well weil off, off, knowing knowing this, this, eat eat itit to to appreciate appreciate the the wine.' wine.' Physiologie du du goilt: goût: Brillat-Savarin wrote wrote in in his his Pftyslalogie Brillat-Savarin 'The 'The woodcock woodcock isis aa very very distinguished distinguished bird bird but but few few people people know in its its full full glory glory when wh en roasted roasted before before ihe the know its its charms. charms. ItIt isis in ofthe the hunter, hunter, especially especially the the hunter hunter who who shot shot it.' it.' eyes of eyes Godard d'Aucour d'Aucour sings sings its its praises praises as as aa pur6e: purée: Godard 'When aa woodcock woodcock isis reduced red uced to to aa pur6e purée 'When Prepared by by skilful skilful art, art, Prepared This dish, dish, so so rare, rare, and andnot less precious, precious, This not less Should only only be be served served at a t the the banquets banquets ofgods.' of gods.' Should But nothing nothing can can rival rival aa roast roast woodcock woodcock cooked cooked to to aa turn, turn, But or Woodcock Woodcock inin brandy brandy (d (à lafine lafine Champagne). Champagne). or Woodcock ià I'Armagnac. l'Armagnac. sfclssr BÉCASSE A A L'ARMl,cNAc L'ARMAGNAC - prePreWoodcock -Woodpare, pare, using using Armagnac, Armagnac, as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Woodbrandy ( (à la fine Champagne Champagne). cockininbrandy cock d lafine ). Woodcock in in brandy brandy (i(à la la fine fine Champagne). Champagne). ntclsss BÉCASSE AÀ La LA Woodcock CHAMPAGNE - Cook the woodcock woodcock from from l0 JO to to 12 12 FINE cHAMpAcNE FINE - Cook the

998 998

wooDcocK WOODCOCK 'Pound 'Pound the the carcase carcase and and the the intestines intestines with with aa piece piece of offoie foie gras gras the the size size of of aa walnut, walnut, aa piece piece of of butter butter the the size size of of aa

Woodcock Woodcock en en daube daube A à I'ancienne. l'ancienne. sfclssn BÉCASSE sN EN onunr DAUBE AÀ L'ANCIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Dress Dress the the woodcock, woodcock, removing removing the the backbone. backbone. Season Season the the inside inside with Spiced Spiced sall salt (see (see SALT). SALT). Stuffwith Stuff with aa

-

hazelnut, hazelnut, some sorne nutmeg nutmeg and and brandy. brandy. Rub Rub through through aa sieve sieve and and season season well. weIl. 'Arrange 'Arrange this this forcemeat forcemeat on on large large pieces pieces of of uncooked uncooked truffies, truffies, steeped steeped in in fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy' brandy. 'Reshape 'Reshape the the woodcock, woodcock, sandwiching sandwiching the the fillets fillets together together with truffies covered with slices slices of oftruffies covered with with forcemeat. forcemeat. Cover Cover the the whole whole with with very very concentrated concentrated game game jelly. jelly. Chill ChilI thoroughly thoroughly before before serving.' serving.' Woodcock Woodcock au au fumet. fumet. sfcmsB BÉCASSE AU AU FUMET FUMET -- Prepare Prepare like !ike Woodcock Woodcock in in brandy brandy (d (à la la fine fine Champagnel. Champagne). When When it it is is cooked cooked but but quite quite underdone underdone cut cut it it into into pieces, pieces, put put in in aa casserole off on on a a hot-plate, hot-plate, pouring pouring over over it it the the casserole and and finish finish off blood blood pressed pressed out out of of the the carcase, carcase, thickened thickened aa little !ittle with with finely finely chopped chopped intestines intestines and and a a dash dash of of previously previously flamed flamed fine fine Champagne Champagne brandy. brandy. Serve Serve the the rest rest of of the the trail trail on on aa piece piece of of fried fried bread. bread. Woodcock ià I'orange. BÉCASSE A À L'onlNcu L'ORANGE - Cook Cook the the l'orange. ntcssn woodcock woodcock on aa spit spit or or in in the the oven. oven. Arrange Arrange it it on on aa crotton croûton Roast woodcoc& spread spread with with the the trail. trail. (See (See Roast woodcock below.) below.) j cup) Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with 1I dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant i cup) dry dry white white wine, wine, add add a a few few tablespoons tablespoons concentrated concentrated game game stock stock boiled boiled down down to to the the consistency consistency of of a a fumet fumet (q.v.). (q.v.). orange' strain Simmer for for 5 5 minutes. minutes. Add Add the the juice juice of of an an orange, strain shredded strainer or through through a a fine fine strainer or muslin muslin bag, bag, add add finely finely shredded drained, and rind rind of of the the orange, orange, blanched blanched and and well weil drained, and blend blend in in I1 sauce over teaspoon teaspoon butter. Pour Pour this this sauce over the the woodcock' woodcock. Garnish Garnish with slices of with slices of orange. orange. oysters ài I'ancienne. Woodcock with oysters Woodcock l'ancienne. sfcsss.lux BÉCASSE AUX nuirnrs,i, HUîTRES À as considered as cannot be L'ANcIENNE L'ANCIENNE - Although Although aa woodcock woodcock cannot be considered Lent. during Lent. as such such during served as fare, it abstinence fare, abstinence it is is often often served poached i'e. poached crdme, i.e. la crème, d la with 88 oysters oysters à woodcock with Stuff the Stuff the woodcock dried, th then and dried, in their de-bearded and own !iquid, liquid, drained, drained, de-bearded in their own en put put con(see SAUCE) on conbased on SAUCE) based sauce (see into very very thick thick Velouté Velouti sauce into the oysters. oysters. from the left over over from liquor left the liquor fish stock and and the centrated fish centrated light until light oven, until in the the oven, cook in Truss the woodcock and and cook the woodcock Truss with 22 blended with intestines blended golden. Spread with with finely finely chopped chopped intestines golden. grated pepper, grated with salt, salt, pepper, pounded anchovy fillets, seasoned seasoned with anchovy fillets, pounded brown in oil, oil, and and brown fried in crofiton, fried on aa croûton, nutmeg and and lemonjuices lemon juices on nutmeg the croûton. crofiton. on the woodcock on the top. Arrange the woodcock Arrange the the in 22 blend in of brandy, brandy, blend dash of with aa dash Dilute the the cookingjuices cooking juices with Dilute with 44 it with pour over Surround it the bird. bird. Surround over the and pour tablespoons butter butter and tablespoons lemon fried, and and lemon and fried, and breadcrumbs breadcrumbs and egg and in egg oysters dipped dipped in oysters quarters. in quarters. cut in cut pn pArf CHAUD cHluo DE I. PÂTÉ p6rigourdine 1. pit6 ài la la périgourdine Hot woodcock woodcock pâté Hot pERIcouRDINE -- Cut of 22 fillets of breast fillets the breast off the Cut off nEcassn À A LA r,c, PÉRIGOURDINE BÉCASSE

large of raw raw foie foie gras gras studded studded with with pieces pieces of of truffie, truffie, large piece piece of seasoned and sprinkled sprinkled with with brandy. brandy. seasoned with with spiced spiced salt salt and Enclose Enclose thefoie thefoie gras gras in in the the bird. bird. Truss Truss as as for for an an entrie, entrée, and bard bard with with a lean lean rasher rasher of of bacon. bacon. Put Put the the woodcock woodcock in in an an earthenware earthenware casserole casserole in in which which 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) tablespoons) butter butter have have been been heated. heated. Baste Baste with with this this butter butter and and cook cook in in the the oven oven for for l0 10 minutes. minutes. Add 88 mushroom mushroom caps caps and and 88 thick thick slices slices of of trufres, truffies, and and finish finish cooking cooking together, together, with with aa lid lid on, on, for for 66 minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the bird bird and and garnish. Dilute Dilute the the juices juices left left in in the the casserole casserole with with half half aa glass glass red red wine wine (Bordeaux (Bordeaux or or Burgundy), Burgundy), boil boil down, down, add 22 dl. ($ (t pint, pint, scant scant cup) cup) gamefumet gamefumet (q.v.), (q.v.), or or Demi'glace Demi-glace sauce sauce (see (see SAUCE) SAUCE) with with the the chopped chopped carcase carcase added added to to it. it. Boil Boil for for aa few moments, and and add add finely finely chopped chopped intestines intestines blended blended with with few moments, 22 tablespoons tablespoons (3 (3 tablespoons) brandy brandy and and I1 tablespoon tablespoon butter. butter. Strain. Remove trussing string and and put put the woodcock woodcock and and the the garnish the casserole. Pour the sauce sauce over over itit and and heat heat for for garnish into the a few moments moments without without allowing allowing itit to boil. boil. Woodcock en daube (cold) I. J. sfcmse BÉCASSE EN DAUBE DAUBE - Prepare Prepare and and cook the woodcock woodcock as described described in the above above recipe recipe but but garnish. do not not add mushrooms to the garnish. When drain, remove When the bird bird is cooked, drain, remove trussing trussing string string and barding it with some trufres barding bacon, bacon, and and put put it with sorne truffies into into an sauce prepared cocotte. Cover Cover with earthenware cocotte. with the the sauce prepared as as described meat jelly, strained and above recipe, adding meatjelly, described in the above with all the fat carefully Chill. off ChiU. carefully skimmed off. EN DAUBE Woodcock en daube (cold) BÉCASSE EN DAUBE -- Bone the Woodcock (cold) II. s6cAsse skin. Spread Spread the without tearing the woodcock completely without the skin. bird on on aa piece of muslin which has muslin which bird has been soaked in in water, stretched on the table. wrung out and stretched (see SALT) and sprinkle with a few tv{,th Spiced Season with Spicedsalt Season salt (see finely with aa layer layer of of finely drops of of brandy. brandy. Cover Cover the the middle middle with drops pounded pork forcemeat mixed with one-third one-third of its weight (see FORCEMEATS) gratin game game forcemeat (see FORCEMEATS) together of àd gratin of On this sieve. On with the the bird's intestines, intestines, rubbed through aa sieve. with (3 oz., scant I g. (3 forcemeat put aa piece offoie 7 5 g. of foie gras of about 75 forcemeat pieces ofuncooked truffies, seasoned seasoned cup), studded with large pieces of uncooked truffies, with aa dash of of well pressed in and sprinkled sprinkled with with spiced salt, weil forcemeat, enclose Cover thefoie thefoie gras with a layer of forcemeat, brandy. Cover of the woodcock and and wrap the bird in the piece of the whole in the muslin. it tightening it Tie with string ends and and in the middle, tightening at both ends string at Tie in 40 minutes minutes in give the ballottine correct shape. shape. Cook for 40 ballottine its correct to give the and the game stock carcase and the carcase which the concentrated game to which stock to concentrated have been added. added. the bird bird have of the trimmings of piece of in of muslin muslin in it, rinse rinse the the piece unwrap it, Drain the the ballottine, ballottine, unwrap Drain in itit once once ballottine in wrap the the ballottine and wrap hot water, water, wring wring itit out out and hot pan, in the the pan, over in Strain the the liquor left over Put into into aa terrine. terrine. Strain again. Put again. pour over the over the and pour to cool cool thoroughly thoroughly and fat, allow skim off off fat, allow itit to skim ballottine. ballottine. on aa in aa dish dish on it. Put Put itit in Take the out and and unwrap unwrap it. the ballottine ballottine out Take (see manner (see in the usual manner foundation ofwell-setjelly, clarified in of well-set jelly, clarified foundation woodthe woodfrom cooking cooking the over from left over JELLY) with the liquor left the liquor JELL Y) with jelly with the half set set jelly the half completely with cock. Cover Cover the ballottine completely the ballottine cock. serving. chill on and chili on ice ice before before serving. and on aa buttered buttered can be be served served on Ballottine of woodcock can of woodcock Ballottine jelly. ItIt can can garnished with with chopped chopped jelly. crofiton of and garnished of bread, bread, and croûton based sauce based chaud-froid sauce be lightly lightly coated with aa brown brown chaud-froid also be coated with also white pieces oftruffies, game fumet (q.v.) (q.v .) decorated of truffies, white with pieces decorated with on aagamefumet on jelly. glazedwith and glazed salt beeftongue, and salt beef tongue, and boiled eggs eggs and of hard boiled ofhard withjelly. The (cold). BÉCASSE onNn -- The t.l DIANE sfcAsss ÀA LA Woodcock ài la la Diane Diane (cold). Woodcock Mourier: recipe which from Leopold Leopold Mourier: which follows follows cornes comes from recipe while still still 'Roast the heat while from heat remove from woodcock but but remove the woodcock 'Roast fillets. into fillets. markedly underdone, and cut cut itit into underdone, and markedly

n.

t

pit6 Woodcock pâté Woodcock

999 999

wooDcocK WOODCOCK woodcocks. Using the the boned boned flesh flesh of rest of of the the rest of the the bîrds, birds, and and woodcocks. adding ta to itit the the flesh of of another another whole whole woodcock woodcock and and aa quantity of of fat fat bacon bacon egual equal to to half half the the talaI total weight weight of of the the woodcocks' flesh, prepare aa very flesh, prepare very finely pounded forcemeat. finely pounded forcemeat. woodcocks' Season with with salt, pepper and salt, pepper and spices, spices, and and sprinkle sprinkle with with aasmall small Seasoli glass of ofbrandy. brandy. glass Coat aa hinged pit6 dish, hinged pâté dish, !ine
Cover with puffpaste and with puffpaste and seal seal the Make aa hole the edges. edges. Make hole in in the the Cover middle to to allow allow steam steam to pastry escape. Decorate to escape. Decorate the the top top with with pastry middle cut in in fancy fancy shapes shapes and yolk. Bake and brush brush with with egg egg yolk. Bake in in aa hot hot eut oven. Pour Pour into pie aa few into the the pie few tablespoons game concentrated game tablespoons concentrated oven. stock. stock. pun6r DE Pur6e of of woodcock. woodcock. PURÉE oB BÉCASSE sfcA,ssr -- Cook Cook aa woodcock woodcock Purée in the the oven oven for for 10 l0 minutes, minutes, allow allow to to cool cool and and bone bone comcomin pletely. Pound Pound the the flesh flesh În in aa mortar, mortar, together together with with the the pletely. intestines. Rub pur6e through aa fine Rub this this purée fine sieve. Heat in in aa bail1sieve. Heat bainintestines. marie, casserole casserole or or timbale. timbale. Add aa few few tablespoons tablespoons of very of very marie, concentrated gamefumel game fumel (q.v.) (q.v.) made made from from thecarcase the carcase and and concentrated the trimmings trimmings of the woodcock woodcock and of the (see and wÎ with rich Demi-glace Demi-glace (see the th rich SAUCE). Add Add2 (3 tablespoons) tablespoqns (3 tablespoons) of of fine fine ChamChamSAUCE). 2 tablespo('~s pagne brandy brandy and and slir. stir. You can can add pur6e diced add ta to this this purée diced truffles, trufres, eooked cooked in in Madeira, or or aa few pur6e. The few tablespoans tablespoons of of truffle truffie purée. The woodwoodMadeira, cock pur6e can can be be served itself, pyramided on platter and served by itself, and on aa platter cock garnished with with puffpastry rosettes or or heart-shaped croûtons cro0tons 5
fi

ct

1000 1000

wooDcocK WOODCOCK Add these these ingredients ingredients to 2 dl. $ (1 pint, scant cup) dry dry white white wine boiled smal1 chopped shallots. shallots·. boiled down in a pan with 2 small Moisten witn with Zt dl. dl. (scant (scant I pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) thickened brown game fumet cup) gameJumet brown veal stock to which l+ It dl. (+ (i pint, f~ cup) (q.v.) (q.v.) has has been been added. Boil for 10 minutes. Strain through through a sieve, pressing extract all ail thejuices the juices from the carcase. Put pressing to extract the the strained strained sauce sauce into into a a saut6 sauté pan, pan, add add to to it it I1 or or 22 tablespoons tablespoons veal veal stock, stock, and and boil boil down down to to the the right consistency. sistency. Season the sauce to taste, add add I1 tablespoon prepreviously brandy, and and strain through through' a a fine strainer. viously flamed flamed brandy, Pour woodcock and heat Pour this this sauce sauce over over the pieces pieces of ofwoodcock heat without

2t

Cook Cook like an ordinary soufflé. ordinary souffi6. A LA SOUVAROV BÉCASSE À Prepare Woodcock ià la Souvarov. Woodcock souvARov -- Prepare Souvarov. BfcAssE like like Partridge dà la Souvarov (see PARTRIDGE). PAR TRIDGE). Supr0mes Suprêmes ofwoodcock. of woodcock. supn8uns SUPRÊMES os DE nfcessn BÉCASSE - Prepare Prepare 1like i ke any any of of the recipes for chicken chicken suprOmes. suprêmes. (See CHICKEN.) Timbale of woodcock woodcock (hot). TIMBALE DE BÉCASSE - Line a nnan,r.rn os sfcA,ssE pie-dish with pie pastry and add add thin rashers of fat fat bacon. bacon.

t

Coat Coat the the dish dish with with d à gratin gratin game game forcemeat Jorcemeat

(see

FORCEMEATS), FORCE MEATS), mixed with diced trufles. truffles. Bone 2 woodcocks, stuff stuff with a piece of of foie Joie gras studded studded with pieces of truffe, truffie, roll into ballottines, ballottines, brown briskly in butter butter and put into the dish. Cover Co ver the the woodcocks woodcocks and and fill fill in in the the spaces spaces with with fine forcemeat, mixed with a purée purbe of offoie JOie gras and the intestines, intestines, through a sieve, well weil seasoned and flavoured with a rubbed through dash of of brandy. brandy. Over this forcemeat put a layer of dà gratin gratin game plling it slightly game forcemeat, forcemeat, piling slightly into a dome shape. Cover Coyer rashers of fat fat bacon, then with pastry cut to the with thin rashers diameter diameter of the the dish, dish, sealing sealing the the edges to to form fonn a a ridge. ridge. shapes. Make Make a hole hole in the Decorate with pastry cut in fancy shapes. escape. Brush with beaten egg and centre to allow steam to escape.

allowing allowing to to boil. boil. Put the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock into into a timbale, pour pour the sauce sauce Put the over them them and garnish with heart-shaped crofitons croûtons fried in in butter. butter. The woodcock can be The salmis salmis of ofwoodcock be served served on on a crofiton croûton cooked in in butter butter and spread with the trail of the the bird. bird. When it is served served with with heart-shaped heart-shaped crofitons croûtons these these can be be spread spread with with dà gratin gratin game gameforcemeat FORCEMEATS). .forceme at (see FORCEMEATS). All AlI the the recipes recipes for the the preparation preparation of of various various salmis salmis will be be found found under under the the entry entry SALMIS. SALMIS. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock ià la la Brillat-Savarin. 8riUat-Savarin. atclsn BÉCASSE sAUTfE SAUTÉE BRILLAT-sAvARrN BRILLAT-SAVARIN -- Prepare Prepare the the woodcock woodcock as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautbed Sautéed n'oodc'oc,k lVoodcock in in Champagne Champagne (see (see below) below) replacing replacing Champagne Champagne by by Madeira. Madeira. Arrange Arrange the the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock in in aa flan case lined with Short Short pastry pasll")' (see (see DOUGH). DOUGH). Garnish Garnish with with aa ragofit ragoût of of cocks' cocks' combs combs and and kidneys. kidneys. saut6ed sautéed lamb lamb sweetbreads, sweetbreads, truffies truffles and and mushrooms, mushrooms. bound bound with with boiled boiled down down Demi-glace Demi-glace (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on a game.fumet gamejumet (q.v.). (q.v.). Pour Pour over over the the gravy gravy left left from from cooking cooking the the woodcock. woodcock. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock in in Champagne. Champagne. n6cassE BÉCASSE sAUTEE SAUTÉE AU AU cHAMpAcNE CHAMPAGNE -- Cut Cut the the woodcock woodcock into into pieces. pieces. Use Use the the carcase carcase and and the the trimmings trimmings to to prepare prepare aa fumet Jumet (q.v.) and and add add rich rich Demi-glace Demi-glace (see (see SA SAUCE). UCE ). Put Put the the pieces pieces of of woodcock woodcock in in aa saut6 sauté pan pan just just big big enough enough to to hold hold them them and and brown brown briskly briskly in in butter. butter. Cover Coyer the the pan pan and and simmer simmer for for 81) minutes. minutes. Drain Drain the the pieces, pieces, arrange arrange in in aa timbale timbale or or in in aa shallow shallow dish, dish. and and keep keep hot. hot. Dilute Dilute the the pan pan juices juices with with aa glass glass of of dry dry Champagne, Champagne, add add the the strained strained concentrated concentrated woodcock woodcockJumet (q.v.) and and boil boil for for .fumet (q.v.) aa few Thicken this this sauce sauce with with the the chopped chopped few moments. moments. Thicken intestines. intestines, season season with with aa small small pinch pinch of of cayenne cayenne and and add add aa teaspoon teaspoon butter butter and and aa dash dash of of lemon lemon juice. juice. Strain Strain the the sauce sauce and and pour pour itit over over the the woodcock, woodcock, piping piping hot. hot. Saut6ed Sautéed woodcock woodcock with with trufles. truffles. stcassr BÉCASSE SAUTEE SAUTÉE AUx AUX rnurnns TRUFFES -- Prepare Prepare the the woodcock woodcock as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Sautded Sautéed woodcock woodcock in in Champagne. Champagne. Rub Rub the the woodcock's woodcock's intestines intestines through through a a fine fine sieve, sieve, mix mix with with ri à gratin gratin game game Jorcemeat (see (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) spread spread on on aa croOton, croûton, fried fried in in forcemeat butter, and brown brown the the top. top. Arrange Arrange the the woodcock woodcock on on this this butter, and cro0ton. croûton. Toss Toss aa dozen dozen thick thick slices slices of of truffies truffles in in the the cooking cooking butter, butter, season season with with salt salt and and pepper, pepper, moisten moisten with with I1dl. dl. (6 (6 tablespoons, tablespoons, scant scant It cup) cup) Madeira Madeira and and boil boil down. down. Add Add 55 tablespoons tablespoons (} (t cup) cup) game/zmet gamejumet (q.v.) (q.v.) and and pour pour over over the the woodcock. woodcock. Woodcock Woodcock soufl6. soufflé. sounrrf SOUFFLÉ nr DE nfcssrBÉCASSE - Bone Bone an an uncooked uncooked woodcock woodcock and and prepare prepare aa souffi€ soufflé mixture, mixture, adding adding alittlefoie a IittleJoie gras and the the bird's bird's intestines intestines rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. gras and Fill Fill aa buttered buttered souffi6 soufflé dish dish three-quarters three-quarters full full with with the the mixture and poach poach in in the the oven, oyen, in in aa bain-marue bain-marie from from 25 25 to to 35 35 mixture and minutes, minutes, according according to to the the size size of ofthe the dish. dish. Serve Serve with with Madeira Madeira sauce (see SAUCE) SAUCE) based based on on game game essence. essence. sauce (see Woodcock Woodcock souffi6 soufflé can can also also be be prepared prepared using using cooked cooked flesh flesh pounded pounded in in aa mortar mortar and and rubbed rubbed through through aa sieve. sieve. Add Add to to itit either Demi-glace or or Velouti Velouté sauce sauce made made with with concentrated concentrated either Demi-glace game game stock stock (see (see SAUCE). SAUCE). Bind Bind with with aa liaison liaison of of 22 egg egg yolks yol ks and and fold fold in in the the stiffiy stiffiy beaten beaten whites. whites.

cook cook in in a hot oven oyen for lf li hours. Leave for a few moments before taking it out of the pie dish and and pour in a a few few tablespoons of dish. Arrange on a dish Demi-glace (see (see SAUCE), SA UCE), based based on concentrated concentra ted game game stock. stock. Demi-glace hot timbales, timbales, whatever their their nature, are are lined with Usually hot Usually Pastry dough (see (see PASTRY) its its main purpose pur pose being ordinary Pastry its strength. strength. its pie dish dish can be be lined with Short Short paslry pastry (see DOUGH) The pie which will will make make the crust more more edible. edible. which of woodcock woodcock (cold). (cold). TTMBALE TIMBALE DE DE BEcASsE BÉCASSE - Prepare Prepare Timbale of in a pie pie dish, lined with with Fine Fine lining lining paste paste (see DOUGH) and in in the recipe for for Timbale of oJ woodcock woodcock cook as described in ((hot). hot ). Leave to cool. cool. Pour Pour into into it liquid aspic jelly based based on Leave concentrated game game stock, flavoured with Madeira Madeira or some sorne concentrated other wine. Allow Allow to to get get quite quite cold before taking out of of the other pie pie dish. dish. Truffled woodcock woodcock (in (in casserole). casserole). n6cassE BÉCASSE TRUFF6ETRUFFÉE - Prepare Prepare Truffied the woodcock woodcock as described described in the the recipe below beJow for Truffied the woodcock. Cook Cook it in in an an earthenware casserole casserole as as roast woodcock. described in in the the recipe recipe for Woodcock Woodcock in casserole. casserole. At the the end described with a a dash dash of brandy brandy and and a a few of cooking, sprinkle with tablespoons of of gamefumel gameJumet (q.v.). (q.v.). tablespoons roast woodcock. woodcock. s6csss BÉCASSE rnurr6n TRUFFÉE ROrIE RÔTIE -- Remove Remove Truffled roast Trufled backbone and and stuff the the woodcock woodcock with with lard mixed mixed with the backbone the prepared as as described described in in the the recipe recipe for for Forcemeatfor Forcemeat Jor truffles, prepared truffies, pouhry (see truffiedpoultry (see FORCEMEATS) FORCEMEATS) and and with with truffies, truffles, cut cut in in truffied pieces, for a a few few moments moments in in the the heated heated lard, lard, and and pieces, tossed tossed for seasoned with with Spiced Spiced salr salt (see (see SALT). seasoned

Suprême ofwoodcock ofwoodcock Suprdme

1001 l00l

WOODEN WOODEN PLINTH of the skin of of truffie under Slip a a dozen dozen thin slices slices of under the the skin woodcock, raising Truss and bard the bird. Wrap raising it gently. Truss Wrap it it and cook on a in a piece of buttered gxeaseproof greaseproof paper and a spit 18 to 20 minutes. from 20 to 25 minutes. oyen from from 181020 minutes, or in the oven Arrange fned bread, canapC of Arrange the woodcock on a canapé offried bread, which may Roast for Roasi be as described in the recipe for he spread with wjth the trail, as woodcock. Serve with its own juices juices or with Pdrigueux Périgueux sauce SAUCE). (see SAUCE). stuffed with Truffied woodcock should be Truffled woodcock should be stuffed with trufres tmffles and forcemeat at least two days before before itil is cooked.

districts the Vosges, the and the the Pyrenees. In In these tbese districts tbe Alpes, Alpes, and de bruyère, bruybre, aa magnificent bird, is grouse or grand coq de great grouse prepared same way prepared and cooked cooked in the same way as pheasant. pheasant. In countries, the bird is first left to soak for ln north north European European countries, for 2 to 3 days in cream. For its preparation, preparation, see PHEASANT. PHEASANT. WOODPECKER. prc PIC

Edible scansorial scansorial bird bird which, which, in in -- Edible France, is prepared France, prepared like blackbird blackbird (q.v.) or thrush (q.v.).

WOOD Species of ring dove or wild WOOD PIGEON. PIGEON. eALoMBE PALOMBE - Species pigeon, prepared like like ordinary pigeon. This bird bird is is called pigeon, prepared palombe palombe or ramier in French. French.

WOODEN WOODEN PLINTH. PLINTH. MANDRIN - Formerly, these plinths plintbs were covered with such substances as modelling modelling fat, butter, butter, of cold decorative sugar sugar motifs, etc., etc., for for the the presentation of of presentation has dishes displayed displayed on plinths. plinths. This method of dishes of and is now been almost completely abandoned abandoned and been almost is merely of historical historical interest. interest. In ln former times, these wooden plinths plinths were were much used. used. speaks oflhem of them for, at that time, Car6me, in his writings, often speaks Carême, of supports of dishes were almost always presented on plinths plinths or supports dishes were almost decorated. one kind or another, aIl all more or less less elaborately elaborately decorated. Nowadays it serye cold food il is usual to 10 serve food either simply laid laid jelly in a bowl. out on aa dish, or covered with jelly

WORCESTERSHIRE spiced sauce SAUCE -- Highly WORCESTERSHIRE SAUCE Highly spiced originally manufactured in Worcester. Worcester.

A kind WORMSEED WORMSEED (U.S.A. Mexican tee) lea) -- A kind of of tea tea proprosweet-smelling flower. duced by the ambroissier shrub with a sweet'smelling attributed to Restorative and and stomachic properties are attribuled to the infusion of this plant. infusion of of WORMWOOD. cnxept WORMWOOD. GENE PI - Name Name applied to several species of in the plants, among which are the plants, among which are the Alpine Alpine yarrow, yarro\;', used used in preparation milfoil, the musk and the of medicinal preparation of medicinal herb-teas, herb-teas, and musk mi/foil, The musk musk milfoit milfoil is which aid digestion. The which is is believed believed to to aid is the made main ingredient of a liqueur (liqueur d'Ira or lrabitter) habiller) made in Italy from aa number of different Alpine in Switzerland and Italy

WOOD GROUSE. COQ coe DE enuytRE WOOD GROUSE. BRUYÈRE - Bird belonging to the of The wood Gallinae order. Gal/inae order. The wood grouse grouse is is the the largest largest type type of

herbs. distilled at at the the Grande herbs. Originally, Originally, the the liqueur liqueur distilled

game which is to be found in Europe. In its feathered feathered game Hs size and which has The bird, weight weight it it resembles resembJes the the turkey. The bird, which has very

Chartreuse bore Chartreuse bore this th is name.

abundance in delicate flesh, is found found in in considerable abundance in the flesh, is Hungary, Russia, Poland, Hungary, countries of northern northern Europe, in in Russia, of Germany. and in the Black Forest region of France. but is still found in the Ardennes, the It is rarer in France,

WRAP. EMBALLER -- To envelope envelope a joint meat, etc. first in a WRAP. EMBALLER joint of ofmeat, slice of pork case of of pork or pig's pig's caul, then in in aa cloth or, in in the case certain puddings and other other similar similar preparations, certain puddings and preparations, in in aa buttered cloth. bu ttered and floured c\oth,

1002

royal cured his his royal and cured flock of of sheep sheep and with aa flock arrived on foot with on foot arrived concoction. of his concoction. the secret secret ofhis client, but refused refused to to divulge the client, yoghourt consists consists making yoghourt for making The method in Bulgaria for used in method used The over aa by one-third one-third over milk by of reducing the the partially skimmed milk. of has When itit has into bowls. bowls. When up into is then divided divided up slow heat. heat. The milk is slow previous (86"F.) some from ilp previous leaven from some leaven cooled to 30"C. (86°F.) about 30°C. to about cooled and isis slipped slipped called Maya Maya and It isis called introduced. It fermentation isis introduced. fermentation milk of the the milk the surface surface of formed on on the which has has formed under the the skin skin which under at aa for 24 24 ho hours left for are left it. The The bowls bowls are without breaking it. without urs at in 24 hours hours in for 24 kept for 25C. (77"F.), then then kept temperature of about 25°C. place before before being being used. a cool place into have come come into curds have In Europe, Europe, since oriental curds since these these oriental ln wholeevaporated who factory-produced, evaporated fashion, they have been been factory-produced, fashion, lethey have pur6e culture culture of of selected selected with aa purée cream milk treated with cream milk being being treated lactic ferments. ferments. lactic

plant found in hot XIMENIA. )flMfi.rE X1MÉN1E -- Type found in Type of of small small plant XIMENIA. among species, among number of species, are aa number countries, of which which there there are in Africa. them the ximenia of Gabon which widespread in is widespread which is are The wild limes, limes, are plums or or wild as mountain mountain plums The fruits, fruits, known known as edible. tree isis aa XYLOPIA. XYLOPlE tropical tree this tropical fruit of of this The fruit xyLopIE --- The condiment pepper) known as malaguetta malaguetta (a substitute for known as for pepper) condiment (a paradise. pepper or grains of ofparadise.

yYAK. AK. YACK grunting wild or domestidomestiwild or vacr -- Long-haired humped grunting cated ox of of Tibet. in The fiesh rich in is abundant, abundant, rich milk is the milk is edible; edible; the flesh of of the yak is butter and milk. cow's milk. goat's milk than than cow's like goat's is more more like and casein. casein. It is YAM. IGNAME - Climbing root isis edible edible large root plant. Its very large Its very YAM.IGNAME - Climbing plant. and potato' A A starch starch as the the sweet sweet potato. way as in the same way is prepared in the same and is called yams, is much is much from yams, also extracted extracted from called Guiana arrowroot, also used in cookery and confectionery.

which isis York ham, ham, which DE YORK YoRK -- York YORK YORK HAM. HAM. JAMBON JAMBoN DE has the the inEngland, England, has prepared in name in in the the same samename of the prepared the town town of Europe. best in inEurope. reputation of reputation of being being the the best but maturity, early ma pigsare for their theirearly Yorkshire tu rit y, but Yorkshire pigs remarkable for are remarkable byaa accompaniedby meat isisaccompanied their little soft, and their their meat their fat fat isis aa little soft, and proporiion of fat. large of fat. large proportion

YEAST. group' fungus group, of aa fungus organism of Microscopic organism YEAST. LEVURE LEvuRE -- Microscopic which which are are produces ferments ferments which and produces which multiplies multiplies rapidly rapidly and converting starch dioxide carbon dioxide into carbon and sugars sugars into starch and ofconverting capable of yeast -- fresh, fresh, dried dried of yeast main types types of There are are three three main and alcohol. alcohol. There and in making yeast are used in are used dried yeast and dried brewer's. Fresh Fresh and and brewer's. breads yeast is fresh yeast of fresh If an amount of an amount cakes. If and sorne breads and some cakes. mentioned but instead, but yeast can used instead, be used can be dried yeast recipe, dried mentioned in in aa recipe, only conmore conused as as itit isis more be used should be amount should half the the amount only half centrated. used (which isis slightly liquid) isis used yeast (which slightly liquid) centrated. Brewer's Brewer's yeast mainly goodsource source Yeast isis aa good ale. Yeast beer and and ale. in the of beer mainly in the brewing of ofVitamin form in the the form prescribed, medicinally, medicinally, in of Vitamin Band B and isis often prescribed, ofyeast extract. concentrated extract. ofyeast tablets tablets or or concentrated

pancake rather rather thickpancake kindof ofthick YORKSIllRE YORKSHIRE PlJDDING PUDDING -- AA kind served England,ititisisserved InEngland, than pudding inin the sense.In the ordinary ordinarysense. than aapudding with with roast roast beef. beef. 1It t isismade follows: made as asfollows: (18oz., flour 4|cups) cups) flour oz.,41 500g.g.(l8 Mix lumps 500 without lumps Mix together together without with pints)milk. (2|pints, pints,21 milk.Season Season with 2fpints) with litres(2* with44eggs eggsand and li lf litres paninin deeppan into aadeep grated nutmeg. Pour Pour into and grated salt, pepper and Bakeinin roast.Bake from the theroast. fatfrom which has been heated heatedsorne some of thefat

YOGHOIJRT, product milk product Curdled milk vlounr -- Curdled YOGHOURT, YOGlJRT. YOGURT. YAOURT from have aa which have ferments which with lactic lactic ferments from the Balkans made made with the Balkans much fermenting power than natural fermenting greater acidifying the natural than the much greater acidifying power agents. at be thought, at might be recent as as might notso so recent The use of yoghourt isisnot least King Frangois 1,I' that King recounts that least in in France. France. History History recounts suffering plaint which the hadresisted resisted the which had complaint from an an intestinal intestinal corn suffering from whole doctor Jewish doctor that aaJewish pharmacopoeia of heard that day,heard whole pharmacopoeia of the the day, from marvellous for marvellous responsible for had been beenresponsible from Constantinople Constantinople had cures preparedininaacertain certain curds prepared with milk milk curds cases, with cures in insimilar similar cases, way. doctor The doctor Paris-The practitioner toto Paris. way. He He brought brought this this practitioner

the theoven. oven. the If piece of beefisis being spit-roastedo placethe If the the piece of beef the Yorkshire underneath it when taking it fromthe Yorkshire puddingunderneath oven, pudding isisimpregnated impregnated with the juice thepudding oven,soso that the dripping beef. dripping from from the thebeef. andset set lozengesand Cut orlozenges puddinginto intosquares squares or Yorkshire pudding Cutthe theYorkshire serve ititon beefisisserved, served,ororserve whichthe thebeef onwhich thedish dishon onthe the edgesof ofthe ititseparately separately.

YULE Yulelog. logChristmasYule CAKES,Christmas YLJLE LOG LOG- -See SeeCAKES, 1003 1003

ZABAGLIONE. ZABAGLIONE. se,slvoN SABA YON -- A cream cream mousse mousse of of 1Italian talian origin which is used to coat hot puddings but also be but which which can can also

very low heat, whisking whisking vigorously vigorously unti] very mixture becomes until the mixture frothy and stiff. Zabaglione à ZabagJione l'asti. SABAYON i Pasti. sABAyoN À Made as A L'ASTI L'esrl -- Made as above, using using Asti Spumante instead of Spumante instead of white wine. Zabaglione au YON AU au Champagne. Champagne. SAHA AU CHAMPAGNE cHAMpAcNE -sABAyoN Follow basic zabaglione zabaglione recipe, recip, using Champagne Champagne instead of white wine. au frontignan frontignan (or other sweet wine). Zabaglione au wine). SABAYON sABAyoN AU FRoNTTcNAN OU ou AUTRES AU FRONTIGNAN AUTRES -- Follow basic zahaglione using using Frontignan (or any other ch as other type of liqueur su such as Madeira, Malaga, Marsala, port port or sherry). sherry). Zabaglione à ZabagJione la créole. A la cr6ole. SABAYON sABAyoN À A LA r-a CRÉOLE· cntole - Make Make a zabaglione with white wine, flavouring zabaglione flavouring it with orange peel. As soon as it becomes frothy, cool it by plunging plunging the bain-marie hain-rnarie

served sweet. served in cups or glasses, as a sweet. The word sabayon in French is a corruption of of the Italian

word zabaglione, zabaglione, and for this word the dictionary gives the following definition: Composed of the yolks of fresh fresh eggs, flavourings, cooked while beating to sugar, wine and some flavourings, make make it thicken. generous cup) sugar Beat together in a basin 250 g. (9 oz., generous a 'ribbon'. Flavour and 6 egg yolks until the mixture forms a'ribbon'. with I1 tablespoon vanilla sugar, orange, lemon or tangerine peel, peel, or or vanilla vanilla extract.

2t

Add2!- dl. (scant Add (seant {t pint, pin t, generous cup) sweet or dry white wine. Cook in a bain-marie ot or in a double saucepan over a

Zabaglione Zabaglione

1004 1004

ZWIEBACK ZWIEBACK into into aa basin basin of of cold cold water, water, still whisking whisking at at the the same time. time. Add Add 44 tablespoons tablespoons (* (-!- cup) cup) rum rum and 2| 21- dl. (scant (scant It pint, pint, generous generous cup) cup) of of stiffiy whipped whipped cream. cream. Mix Mix and and serve in in a bowl bow\ set set in in crushed crushed ice. ice. Serve Serve immediately. immediately. Zabaglione SABA YON A À Ll LA rora KOLA -- Prepare Prepare some sorne ZabagJione ià la la kola. kola. sABAyoN zabaglione port wine. wine. When When the the mixture mixture begins begins to set, set, zabaglione using using port add add 22 teaspoons leaspoons of of the the following following mixture: equal equal quantities quantities of of liquid liquid cola cola extract extract and and liquid liquid coca coca extract extract flavoured flavoured with a little syrup made made from from the the rind rind of of bitter bitter oranges. oranges. little syrup This This zabaglione,whichshould zabaf:lione, which should be be eaten eaten very very hot, hot, is is not not only a very but also an an excellent excellent medicine. medicine. very tasty tasty dessert, but Zabaglione aux liqueurs. liqueurs. sABAyoN SABA YON AUx AUX ueuzuns LIQUEURS - Follow basic basic zabaglione zabaf:lione recipe recipe flavoured flavoured with a a liqueur (Cognac, (Cognac, anisette, cherry brandy, Chartreuse, kirsch, kirsch, rum, rum, kummel, kummel, etc.). etc.).

Hors-J'œuvre served served in in Russia. Russia. These These &orshors- Hors-d'urvre drinking a glass glass d'œuvr(' are usually eaten immediately immediately after drinking deuvre ofvodka. ofvodka. ln aa certain certain corps corps of of the Imperial Imperial Guard Guard itit was was the tradition In when entertaining entertaining young youngofficers provoke them to drink so when officers to provoke loasls with wilh the Ihe zakuski that Ihat they the y could go no further many toasts and had had to to be be carried carried to to beds beds which which had had usually usually been been and prepared prepared for them in advance! advance!

ZAKUSKI

lemon of lem Zeste of on (( Larousse Larousse))

coloured,, flavoured ZESTE -- French for 'peel', the extenor, exterior, coloured ZESTE part of tangerine, citron, etc. of lemon, orange, tangerine, of the skin of This an orange or lemon. This ZESTER -- Term meaning to peel ZESTER peel an called aa instrument called easier by using a special instrument operation is made easier zesteur, zesteur.

ZAMPINO -- See See PORK, Stuffed ZAMPINO Stuffed pig's leg. ZARA (Maraschino). (Maraschino). uanseulN MARASQUIN DE DE ZARA zARA -- Renowned ZARA made at Zara, aa Dalmatian village on the situated on village situated liqueur made at Zara, ltaly by the Treaty Treaty of Rapallo. Adriatic, which was ceded to Italy This liqueur is is much much used used in pastry-making and and conThis liqueur in pastry-making

Z,IB,EI. ZIBETH of chives from tropical Asia, used to znrilt -- Variety of ZIBET. ragofrts and salads. season sauces, ragoûts small cuts of meat ZINGARA-- Garnish which accompanies accompanies small ZINGARA lean or shredded shredded lean chopped or and poultry. It is made up of finely chopped witll DemiDemibound with. ham, tongue, trufres, bound tongue, mushrooms and and truffies, ham, glace sauce (see SAUCE) with tomato tomato and and flavoured with sauce (see SAUCE) flavoured glace tarragon essence. essence.

10 flavour fectionery to flavour sweets and ices.

ZEBU and ZEBIJ -- Bovine domesticated in Africa and Bovine mammal, widely domesticated Asia. lts Its flesh prepared like beef. flesh can be eaten and is prepared pe ZÉLANDE ZEELAND (Oysters). HUÎTRES This province zfr.lNpn -- This uuirnrs DE of the Low Countries, made up almost entirely of islands, islands, is situated at and Meuse. I'Escaut and rivers l'Escaut at the the mouths mouths of of the the rivers Zeeland see Tneland oysters various preparations see famous. For For various oysters are are famous. OYSTER. OYSTER.

pith found found in in oranges oranges French word word for for the the white pith ZISTE -- French just underneath peel. This This substance substance outer peel. the outer and lem lemons underneath the and ons just has aa rather bitter taste. green slender green In U.S.A. these slender Italian marrows. In ZUCCHINI -- Italian In England England zucchini. In or zucchini. called Italian Italian squash squash or are called vegetables are recipes For recipes courgettes. For or courgettes. they are are known as baby baby marrows or known as they ITALIAN MARROWS. see IT ALlAN MARROWS. see

ZEPHIR. to designate designate chefs to ZEPHIR. ZEPHYR -- Name used by sorne some chefs used by light and frothy preparations. It and quite wrongly, to mousses mousses and It isis often, wrongly, applied applied to often, quite mousselines grcs, fish and chicken. and chicken. mousselines of/oie of foie gras,

French bakeries. bakeries. found in in French ZWIEBACK-- Biscolte rusk found Biscotte or or rusk ZWIEBACK

1005 1005

Index

INDEX :

p photograph or p = photograph or illustration illustration

agar-agar 4,422

agaric 4-5,4p Agathon 5 Agave 5 Agnds Sorel 410

agnolotti

d la pi6montaise

A abaissel,1, 1lp abaisse P abat-faim 1I abat-faim

abel-musk 1I

abel~musk

ablutions, table table I ablutions, abomasum abomasum 1I abondance 1I abondance Abrantds, ri l' 393 .V .... "L'-", à l' 393 abrotonite abrotonite 1I Absinth 1I Absinth wine 1I wine absorption 22 absorption abstinence 22 abstinence Abutilon 22 Abutilon Acacia 22 Acacia fritters 396 396 friUers liqueur 555 555 liqueur Acanthus 22 Acanthus acatne 22 acarne accolade, in in 2, 2,2p accolade, aceline 22 aceline acetabulum 22 acetabulum acetic acid acid 22 acetic acetification 22 acetification acetimeter 22 acetimeter aceto-dolce aceto-dolce 22 acetomel acelomel 22 acetone acetone 22 achar(d)s 2,965 2,965 lemon lemon 22

palmetto

2

2

vegetable vegetable 22 Achillea Achillea 22 acid acid 2-3 2-3 acidifiers acidifiers 2-3 2-3

acidity 33

acidulated acidulated 33

acon acon 33 acorn acorn 33

acquette acquette 33 acridophage 3 acnao~)naJ~e 3 acroama acroama 3-4

Actinia Actinia 44 adoc adoc 44

adulteration adulteration 44 Aeginetia Aeginetia 44

Aegis ofRhodes Rhodes 44 Aegis of

Africa, Africa, North: North: culinary culinary specialities l0-11 10-11 africaine, eàl' l' 410 410 after-taste after-taste 44 agami 4,4p d la chilienne 4 '-lll"'""Jll\_ 4 agape 4

5

agone d'Istria d'Istria 55 agone agoranome agoranome 55 agou 55 agou agouti agouti 55 agras 55 agras aguaxima 55 aguaxima aguncate 55 aguncate

aigredecddre

aiguillette

5

5

aillade 5-6 5-6 aioli 66 aïoli garnished 6 d la grecque 6 deProvence 823 aisy 66 aisy Alaria 66 AJarÎa albacore 66 albacore albarelle 66 albarelle albatross 6,6p 6,6p albatross albigeoise 6,410 6,410 Albuf6ra d' d' 6,410 6,410 albumen 66 albumen albumin 6-7 6-7 albumin albuminoids 7,12 albuminoids 7, 12 albundigas albundigas 77 alcarraza 7,7p alcarraza 7,7p alcazar'l7 alcazar alcohol alcohol 88 alcoholism alcoholism 88 ale ale 88 posset posset 88 toast toast and and 88

Alectryon ."' ... ".",...." 88 albembic albembic 8-9,8p 8-9, algae 99 Algeria 9-l 9-11I alg6rienne, 1 ('f"'r,,,,~n .. d à l' l' 11, 11, 410 4\ 0 alica 1l alicuit alicuit l1 II aliment aliment l1-14 11-14 alimentation alimentation l4-15 14--15

alkalescents alkalescents l5 15 alkali alkali volatile volatile l5 15 alkaloids alkaloids 15 15 alkermes alkermes 15 15 Allaria Allana 15 15 alligator alligator 15 15 allspice 16 16 allumettes allumettes (cakes) (cakes) 16, 16, l6p 16p allumettes allumettes(pastry (pastry straws) straws) (hors-d'oeuvre) 469, (hors-d'oeuvre) 16, 16,469, 902 902 anchovy anchovy 466,469,902 466,469,902 dàI'andalouse l'andalouse 469 469

withcaviare caviare466 466 with chalonnaise470, 470. àdlalachalonnaîse 902 902 Chavette 470 470 Chavette cheese 902 902 cheese 470 àdl'lcarlate l'écarlate 470 l'6cossaise 470 470 àdl'écossaise florentine 470 470 àd lala florentine palate 16 ox palate 16 ox Parisian 466 466 Parisian perigourdine 16 16 àd lala périgourdine reine 16 16 àd lala reine toscane 16 16 àd lala toscane Vladimir 466 466 Vladimir almonds 16, 16, 16p l6p almonds Aboukir 16 16 Aboukir barcroquets 290 bar croquets 290 bitonnets 88 88 bâtonnets blanched 17 17 blanched Bordelais croquets 290 Bordelais butter 16, 16, 168 butter chopped 17 17 chepped cookies 16--17 16-17 cookies coloured 17-18 17-18 coloured cream 17, 17,286 cream 286 croissants 289 croissants diced 18 18 diced emulsion 359 emulsion iceqeam 492 cream 492 ice loaf 17 17 loaf macaroons maearoons 568-9 marzipan marzipan 578 marzipan sweets 578-9 578-9 marzipan sweets milk milk 17,359 17,359 Nantois Nantois 621 621 nougat nougat 17 17 oil 647 oil647 paste paste 17 17 plombidres ice jee cream crcam 493 493 praline 17 17 pudding, pudding, English 741 74 t raw raw 18 18 roasted roasted 18 18 salted salted 18 18 shredded shredded 18 18 souffi6 soufflé 866 866 sugared sugared 18 18 syrup syrup 912 912 tartlets tartlets l7 17 vacherin vacherin with wilh almond almond paste paste crown crown 951 951 whole t8 who1e l8 almonds, almonds, bitter bitter l7 17 essence essence 363 363 almonds, almonds,country l8 18 almonds, almonds, earth earth 18 almonds. almonds, sweet sweet 18 18 Alocasia AJocasia 18 18 Aloe Alee l8 18 alpheus 1818

1008 1008

Alsace 18-20 AJsacel8-20 charcuterie 19p l9p charcuterie gastronomic map map19p l9p gastronomie wine lodges262, 262,263p 263p wine map20p 20p alsacienne, d,l' 20, 410 " 20,410 alum 20 20 alum aluminite 20 20 alumînite kitchen utensils utensils in in 21p kitchen 2lp aluminium 21 2l aluminium amanita 21, 2l,2lp amanita 2lp Amaranth 21 2l Amaranth ambassadrice 410 410 ambassadrice ambergris 2l am bergris 21 Ambialet 546p 546p Ambialet ambigu 21-2 2l-2 ambrosia 22 22 ambrosia Am6l6on 22 22 Améléon America, Central: Central: America, cookery 501-2 501-2 South : cookery cookery America, South: 50r-2 501-2 am6ricaine, à)' dl' 22,410 américaine, 22,410 22 Amiens 22 amiral, à!' dl' 22 22 amiral, ammaperdrix 22 22 ammaperdrix: ammocoete 22 ammocoete ammonia 22 carbonate of ammonia, carbonate 22 Amomum 22 Amomum amourettes 22 Amphicles Amphides 22 Amphitryon Amphitryon 22-3 amphora 23,23p amphora 23, amygdaline 23 anaemia anacmia 23 23 anaemics: a naemics: diet diet for 23-4 23-4 anagnost 24 24 analect analect 24 24 analeptic 24 analysis 24 24 anaphylaxis 24 24 anchovies anchevies 24,24p,459 24, 459 anchoyade anehoyade 26,470 470 barquettes barquettes 471 471 butter butter 168 168 canap6s ... ,""Ol_"'-è> 24,25p 24,25p cro0tes croûtes 476 476 dartois dartois 477 477 essence essence 363 363 fillets flUets 25 25 forcemeat forcemeal 388 388 fried fried 25 25 fritters friners 394,478-9 394,478-9 la grecque 459 dàla 459 and and hard-boiled eggs 459 459 m6daillons médaillonsdàlala niqoise 25,25p 25,25p dàlala normande normande 459 459

INDEX Norwegian Norwegian 459,525 459,525 in oil 459 omelette 351-2 351-2 pannequets pannequets 480,664 480, 664 Portuguese Portuguese fillets fillets 25 preparation preparation 24p 24p preserved 25 pur6e purée 745 rolled; with hardboiled eggs eggs 25 sai ad 459 salad dressing 787 salad dressing salpicon 800 sauce sauce 817,823 8I7,823 45940 scrolls scrolls 459-60 sil6sienne 24 àd la silésienne soufl6 fritters friuers 479 soufflé soused 25-6 straw (allumettes) 466, 469,902 469,902 tart with pissalet 470 toast toast 25 anchoyade anchoyade 26,470 àd la nigoise niçoise 26 ancienne, àill' l' 26,410, 410p andalouse, àd"l' andalouse, l' 26 andouille 26,26p 26,26p andouille andouillettes 26 àd la lyonnaise 26 Andropogon 26 anecdotes 26-8 an6thole 28 anéthole ange] cake 178 angelcake angelfish angel fish 28 angelica angelica 28,28p 28,28p candied 29 hippocras 123 hippocras liqueur 28-9, 555 liqueur 28-9,555 Niort, àd la sybarite 29 angels on horseback horseback 29 angels anglaise anglaise 29 anglaise, àill' l' 29,410 29,410 angler(anglerfish) angler (anglerfish) 29 I'anglaise 29 àd l'anglaise boiled with various sauces 29 fillets braised in white wine 29 wine fied 29 fried matelot 29 matelot pi,rtb 29 pâté Anglet 29 Angoul6me 30 Angoulême 30 Angoumois 30 Angoumois map 30p gastronomic map Angrec Angrec 30 30 animelles animelles 30,633 cream sauce 633 in increamsauce 633 fricassee 633 fricassée fried 633 fried

fried in batter ba tter 633 fried with mushrooms 633 d à la vinaigrette vinaigrette 633 sugar 908 anise: sugar 30-1, 31 3lpP aniseed 30--1, cookies 3l 31 cream Cream of 555 sauce 808 witb 31 sugar flavoured with anisette anisette 31 liqueur 555 Anjou 31-3 3l-3 gastronomic map 3lpp map 31 vineyards 33p, 33p,993p 993p Anna Anna 393 anon 34 anon annona 34,34p annona 34, 34p anthracite anthracite 34 antidote 34 antisepsis 34 antiseptics 34 34. 410 410 anversoise, àiLl' l' 34. aoudzb 34 aoudzé aperitif 34-5 apéritif aphorisms 35-7 Aphtonitus 38 Apicius 38 Aponogetonaceae 38-9 Aponogetonaceae apophoreta 39 apotheca 39 apotheca apothegms 37-8 apothegms appareil appellations d'origine 39 Nicolas 39,39p 39,39p Appert, Nicolas appetit 40 appétit appetite 40 appigret 40 appigret apple-corer 42 40,40p apples apples 4O,40p baked ba ked in pastry or douillon normand 41-1,4Op 4l-r,40p Bavarian cream àd la normande 89 normande femme 41 bonne femme Bourdaloue 41 4l buttered 41 41 au au chambertin 41 charlotte 205 charlotte compote 250 4l Condé Cond6 41 4l la crème crdme au au kirsch kirsch 41 àd la 41 cro0te 41 croûte croffte ài la normande croûte 294 294 douillon normand 40-1,40p Figaro 41 4l Figaro flamb6 au kirsch 41 41 flambé au kirsch Grimaldi 377 flan Grimaldi

freezing 736 freezing

fritters fritters 396 glacé à j'impératrice 4l 41 $acbil'imp6ratrice

gratin6 gratiné 41 green, rougail 781 iced, dà la normande 4954 495-6 jelly jelly 517 marmalade 575-6 mousse mousse dà la Chantilly 4l 41 omelette d omelette à la normande 4l-2,357 41-2,357 pancakes 41 pastejelly paste jelly 519 pectin 42 pie àd I'anglaise l'anglaise 695 pudding, pudding, English English 741 with rice 42 with rice and meringue meringue 42 ring: Brillat-Savarin 42 àd la normande 42 rissoles 42 42,823 sauce 42, sauce 823 freezing 736 736 freezing 42,866 souffi6 42, soufflé 866 Russian 866 Russian 9lGl7,9I6p tart 916-17, 916p I'allemande 917 àd l'allemande àd l'alsacienne 917 of Demoiselles of Demoiselles Tatin 917 with lattice-work 917 Messina 917 Messina tartlets 919 tartlets 946,946p turnover 946, 946p apricoting 45 apricots 42,42p apricots àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 43 attereaux Pompadour atlereaux 61 barquettes 85-6 barquettes I'ancienne 86 àd l'ancienne biscuits biscui ts 125 bombe 43 bouch6es 43 bouchées Bourdaloue 43 candied or crystallised 43 brandy 43,44 43,M in brandy caramel, in brandy brandy 43 charlotte 205 charlotte Colbert 43 Colbert comfits 43 brandy 43 in brandy compote 260 434,44p Cond6 434, Condé 44p 494 coupe 494 coupe 291J croquettes 29 croquettes cro0te 44 44 croûte 1009 1009

diable 44 flambE flambé in kirsch kirsch 44

ri à la

freezing 737 freezing

fritters fritters 396 492 ice 492 ice d à I'impdratrice l'impératrice

jam jam 516

44,44p 44, 44p

omelette omelette ià la

C6lestine 355 Célestine 355

liqueur 555 marmalade 576 mousse mousse 598 omelette 45p oreillons 44 pannequets pannequets 664 pastejelly paste jelly 519 preserved: preserved : aau u naturel na turel 45 in syrup 45 with rice 45 with rice and meringue 45 sauce 827 sauce souffi6 soufflé 866 stones,liqueur stones; liqueur 556 tart 917 d à I'allemande l'allemande 917 àd I'alsacienne l'alsacienne 917 tartlets 19 tart/ets 9919 93I-2 tourte 931-2 45,45p apron (fish) 45, 45p Arabs: cuisine or 'tent' Arabs: cookery 10 cookery gastronomical customs l0 10 arapede 45 arbolade 45 Arbutus berry Arbutus berry 45 arca 45 arca Arcachon 45 Arcachon arcanette 45 arcanette Archestratus 45-6 M archiduc, àill' l' 46 archil 46 archil ardennaise, àdl' l' 46 ardoise 46 ardoise Arenga 46 Argenteuil 46 Argenteuil argus pheasant 46 Aridge 46 Ariège ari6geoise, àlltf ariégeoise, l' 46 arlequin 46 arlequin Arles 46 Arles arl6sienne, àdl' arlésienne, l' 46 armadillo 46 Armagnac 46 46 Armoricaine 46 armoricaine, àd,l' l' 47 biscuits 125 arny biscuits arcma 47 aroma plants 47 aromatic plants

INDEX INDEX aromatics 47 47 aromatics arpenteur, see plover Jee plover arpenteur, Arquebuse 47 47 Arquebuse (Arracacra) 47 Arracacha (Arracacia) 47 Arracacha Artack 47 47 Arrack arrowroot 47 47 arrowroot liaison 47 47 liaison porridge 47-8 47-8 porridge with 922 thickening with 922 thickening arsenic 48 48 arsenic Artagnan, àd la la d' d' 48 48 Artagnan, artichokes 48, 48, 48p, 48p, 460, 460, artichokes 460p 460p barigoule 48 48 barigoule Baron-Brisse 460 460 Baron-Brisse boiled, whole whole 48 48 boiled, boiled with with va various boiled rio us sauces 48 48 sauces (arge); stuffed braised (large); stuffed braised augras 48 au gras 48 stuffed au au maigre maigre 49 49 stuffed (small) 49 braised (smalt) 49 braised Clamart 49 49 Clamart Crbcy 49 49 Crécy diable 49 49 àd la la diable dried 49 49 dried fritters 49,479 49,479 fritters garnishedhearts 460 garnished hearts 460 grecque 459p, 459p,460 àd la la grecque 460 hearts 50,50p hearts 50, 50p 50 àd I'allemande l'allemande 50 50 àd la la b6chamel béchamel 50 cooked in 50 cooked in butter butter 50 in 50 in court-bouillon court-bouillon 50 crdme 50 50 ài la la crème filled as garnish 50 filled as garnish 50 finesherbes fines herbes 50 50 fried fried in in butter butter 50 50 garnished garnished 50 50 460 d à la la grecque grecque 460 dà la la hollandaise hollandaise 50 50 Mornay Mornay 50 50 pickled pickled 50-l 50-1 stuffed stuffed dà la la c6venole cévenole 5l 51 stuffed stuffed ià la la chalonnaise chalonnaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la duxelles duxelles 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la florentine florentine 5l 51 stuffed stuffed dà la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed pi6montaise piémontaise 5l 51 stuffed stuffed Soubise Soubise 51 51 dà la la tartare tartare 460 460 dà la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 49 49 dà la la m6nagdre ménagère 49 49 mirepoix mirepoix 49 49 omelette omelette 352 352

Monselet 353 353 Monselet viveur 355 355 viveur pickled 49 49 pickled grecque 49 la grecque 49 àd la poivrade 460 la poivrade 460 àd la pur6e 746 746 purée forgarnish 49-50 for garnish 49-50 soubis6e, for sou bisée, for garnishes 50 50 garnishes quarters 51,460 51,460 quarters butter 51 in butter 5l in auxfinesherbes 5l aux fines herbes 51 fried in in batter batter 51 5l grecque 51 la grecque 5l àd la I'italienne 51 51 àd l'italienne aujus 51 5l aujus la lyonnaise lyonnaise 51 5l àd la la moelle moelle 51 5l àd la portugaise 51 la portugaise 51 àd la salpicon sai picon 800 with cream cream 800 with soup, cream cream of of 873-4 8734 soup, velout6 878 velouté stalks 50 stalks vinaigrette 460 la vinaigrette ài la artichokes, winter, winter, see artichokes, Jerusalem artichokes Jerusalem Artois, àri la d' d' 393 Artois, Artois and Boulonnais Artois 5t-2 51-2 gastronomic map gastronomic map 52p Arum Arum maculatum maculatum 52 asafoetida 52-3 52-3 asafoetida asbestos 53 53 Ascalaphus Ascalaphus 53 53 Ash 53 Ash (tree) (tree) 53 ashdrink 53 ashdrink 53 ashes ashes 53 53 asparagus asparagus 53,53p 53, 53p Argenteuil Argenteuil fondants 477 477 Argenteuil Argenteuil tartlets 487 487 with with cold sauces sauces 55 55 d à la la flamande flamande 54 54 d à la la Fontanelle Fontanelle 54 54 freezing 735 fried fried in in batter batter 54 54 with with fried fried bread bread 55 55 au gr:atin gratin 54,54p gf,een: green: salpicon sai picon 800 800 heaped heaped in in aa croustade croustade dà la la Cardme Carème 54,54p 54, 54p with with hot hot sauces sauces 55 55 with with melted melted butter butter 55 55 dà la la milanaise milanaise 54 54 dà la la Mornay Mornay 54 54 with with noisette noisette butter butter 54 54 omelette omelette 352 352 Argenteuil Argenteuil 352 352 Princess Princess 354 354 dà la la polonaise polonaise 54 54

preserving 53-4 53-4 preserving green tips tips 54 54 green pur6e 55,746-7 55,746-7 purée (white) 55 salad (white) 55 salad (green) soup: cream cream of of (green) soup: 874 874 (white), cream of of (white), cream called Argenteuil Argenteuil called 874 874 velout6 878 878 velouté tips in in butter butter 55 55 tips with cream tips with cream 54 54 tips garnishes 54 tips for garnishes 54 tips green 55 tips, green tips, tips, royale 418 418 tips, Asperula 55 Asperula jelly : clarification aspic jelly' clarification aspic 56 56 aspic moulds moulds 56p 56p aspics 55-6,55p aspics chaud-froid of chicken chaud-froid 206-7 206-7 chicken 57p, 57p,58,58p, 58, 58p, 222 crayfish 58 crottons 56 croûtons fish 56 fish gras 56 foie gras freshwater crayfish freshwater tails 56 frogs' legs àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 58 game game 58 lobster 56p,58,562 lobster 56p, 58, 562 in moulds moulds 56 pheasant pheasant dà I'ancienne l'ancienne 689 poultry poultry 58 shrimps 58 sole sole 56p spiny lobster 58 spiny assiettes: anglaise 58, 58p,460 58p,460 garnies garnies 58 volantes 58 58 Assyrians: banquets 76-7 76-7 Assyrians: bpnquets Asti Asti 58 58 Astragal Astragal 58-9,58p 58-9,58p astringent as tringent 59 59 astroderme 59 59 Athenaeus Athenaeus 59 59 Ath6nienne 59 Athénienne dà l'l' 59 ath6rine athérine 59,59p,843 59, 59p, 843 Atriplex Atriplex 59 59 attelet attelet 59,59p 59,59p attereaux attereaux 60,470 brains: brains: dà l'ancienne l'ancienne 470 470 dà I'italienne l'italienne 470 dà la la mirepoix mirepoix 470 Villeroi Villeroi 60 60 calf's calf's sweetbreads sweetbreads

l0l0 1010

Villeroi 60 60 Villeroi la chalonaise chalonaise 60 60 ài la chicken livers: livers: àd la la chicken duxelles 470 470 duxelles la mirepoix mirepoix 60 60 àd la cocks' combs combs àd cocks' I'ancienne 470 470 l'ancienne la duchesse duchesse 60 60 àd la 470 àdl'ilcarlate l'écarlate 470 l'6cossaise 60 60 àd l'écossaise sweetbreads lambs' sweetbreads Villeroi 60, 60,60p Villeroi 60p lobster 470 lobs ter 470 maraichdre 60 60 àd la maraîchère 60 àd la normande 60 palate 60-1 6G-l ox palate 470 oysters 470 oysters 61 Monselet 61 (d la royale, Parmesan (à royale, princesse) 60,470 àd la princesse) pi6montaise 60 àd la piémontaise 6l pineapple 61 Pompadour 61 6l Saint-Hubert 60 àii la Saint-Hubert sweetbreads 470 vegetables 470 Victoria 61 6l Victoria àri la Villeroi 470 Aubenas 61 6l aubergines 61, 61,6lp aubergines 61p caponata 183 caponata àd la crdme créme 61 fried 61 6l fried fritters 394 fritters au gratin 61 6l àdlacatalane la catalane 61 d à I'italienne l'italienne 6l 61 d à la languedocienne languedocienne 6l 61 d à la portugaise 63 d à la reine 63 63 d à la toulousaine toulousaine 63 d à la turque 63 63 gratin gratin of of tomatoes tomatoes and 928 in gravy 63 63 dà la la grecque 63 63 grilled 63 Imam lmam Baaldi 62p,63 62p, 63 .omelette 352 352 omelette Mistral Mistral 353 353 pur6e purée 63,747 63,747 rougail rougail 781 781 salad 63 63 salpicon, salpicon, in in cream cream 800 800 saut6ed sautéed 63 63 souffi6 soufflé 63 63 rià la la hongroise hongroise 63 63 aupannesan au parmesan 63 63 Aude Aude 63 63 Audiger Audiger 63 63

INDEX INDEX Augsburgerwiirste Augsburgerwürste 830 830 auk auk 63-4 63-4 Aunis Aunisand and Saintonge Saintonge 64 64 gastronomic .. r.nr.rn'" maP map 30P 30p

auriol

64 aurochs aurochs 64 64 Aurore Aurore 393 393 aurore, aurore, à l' 64 64

il'

Austria: Austria: cookery 503 503 autoclave autoclave 64-5,64p 64--5, 64p auto-intoxication, auto-intoxication, digestive digestive 65 65 autrichienne, autrichienne, dà l'l' 65 65 Auvergnat Auvergnat 66 66 Auvergne Auvergne 65-6,65p 65-6, gastronomic gastronomie map map 60P 60p Avice 66 66 aviner aviner 66 66 66,66p avocadopear avocado 66, avocet 66,66p 66p axioms axÎoms 35-7 Ay 66-7 66-7 Ayapana 67 Ayapana 67,67p azarole 67, azarole azi(azy) (azy) 67 azÎ azymous 67

baked baked Alaska Alaska 356p,357 357 bakers'ovens bakers' ovens 72p bakery 70-2 70-2 balachan ua."v",," 72 72 Balaine Balaine(Baleine) (Baleine) 72 72 balanus balanus 72 72 balaou balaou 73 73 Balkan Balkan cookery 504 504 ballottines ballottines 73 73 chicken 222 222 with dark sauce, sauce, with dark served served with with various various garnishes garnishes 73 73 glazed 74 74 $azed injelly injelly 74 74 with sauce 73-4 73-4 with light light sauce small small 74 74 ", .. ~,"' ..,~ 322 322 duckling

eel cel 330 330 dà I'ancienne l'ancienne 330 330 ià lala bourguignonne bourguignonne 330-l 330-1 dà la la gauloise gauloise 331 331 goose goose 430 430 guinea-fowl guinea-fowl 74 74 hare hare M7 447 d à la p6rigourdine npr'or.''''·1'1 447

lamb: lamb: ài la la boulangdre 73 73 d la bourgeoise 73 braised d la bonne

B baba 68-9,68p baba 68p for 319 319 batter for batter 69 babiroussa biroussa 69 ba Bacchanalia 69 69 Bacchanalia Bacchante 69 69 Bacchante Bacchus69, 69,69p Bacchus 69p 69 bacon 69 bacon omelette 352 352 omelette 353 la forestière forestidre 353 àd la rinds 720 720 rinds 787 fatdressing dressing787 bacon fat bacon 69p, 69-70, 69p, anise 69-70, Badiananise Badian 898 898 Bagration 70,393 bain-de-pied 70

bain-marie 70,70p 70 baiser70 baiser 70 bajet70

femme 73 various with various braised, with braised, garnishes 73 73 garnishes various with various cold, with cold, garnishes 73 73 garnishes injelly 73,73p in jelly 73, 73 mutton 73 mutton jellied 666 partridge, jel1ied 666 partridge, various with various with garnishes 666 666 pheasant injelly in jelly 689 689 pheasant pigeon 74 74 pigeon pork; braised, with braised, with pork; 73 various garnishes 73 various injelly 73 73 injelly poultry 74 74 poultry 323 duckling 323 Rouen duckling Rouen 74 turkey 74 turkey 943 toulousaine 943 àd lala toulousaine veal 73 73 veaI 74 balm 74 balm bamoch bamoch 74 bambocher 74 bambocher 74 bamboo74 bamboo 74 mushroom 74 bamboo mushroom bamboo 74-5,75p bananas74--5, bananas 75 baked 75 baked 75 Beauharnais75 Beauharnais 75 Bourdaloue 75 Bourdaloue

ininbutter butter 75 75 compote compote 260 260 Cond6 Condé 75 dà la la cr6ole créole 75 75 crofites: croûtes: iàla la Bauvilliers Bauvilliers 75 75 dà la maltaise 75 75 la maltaise flan (tan) dà lalacrdme crème 75 75 flan (tart) flamb6 flambé 75 75 fried fried 75,75p 75,75p fritters fritters 76,396 76, 396 ice ice 492 492 ripening ripening 74p souffi6 soufflé 76 76 Bandol Bandol 76 76 bangi bangi 76 76 banilles banilles 76 76 banquets banquets 76-83 76-83 410 banquidre, rià la la 83, 83,410 83 bantam bantam 83 banvin banvÎn 83 83 Banyuls Banyuls 83 83 baobab baobab 83,83p S3, baraquilles baraquilles 83 84 Barashek Barasbek iz iz Masla Masla 84 Barbados Barbados Cream Cream 84 84 84 Barbarea Barbarea 84 84 barbarin barbarin 84 84 barbarine barbarine 84 84,84p barbel barbet 84, various boiled, with various 84 sauces 84 sauces 84 i la bourguignonne 84 àla 84 fried 84 fried grilled 84 84 84 d la la meu meunidre nière 84 des la mode mode des ài la 84 mariniers 84 mariniers roast 84 84 roast 84 barberry "'""-"'",r ..,, 84 84 candied 84 dried candied dried to 84 84 bard, to bard, fat 84--5 84-5 barding fat 85 barigoule 85 barigoule, d la 85

barley 85 beer 1l18 beer J8

85 broth 85 broth with 85 85 consomm6 with consommé 122 cordial 122 cordial of 874 874 cream of soup, cream soup, I22 water 122 water 85 sugar 85 barleysugar barley 85,85p barnacle 85, barnacle 85p 3,3p acorn3,3p acorn goose 85 85 barnacle goose barnacle 85 baron baron 85 barquettes 85,460 d I'am6ricaine 471 471 withanchovies anchovies 471 with 85-6 apricot apricot 85-6

l0l I 1011

d I'ancienne 86 à l'ancienne 86 Bagpation Bagration 460 460 Beauharnais Beauharnais 460 460

471 dlabouquetidre à la 471

dlacancalaise à la cancalaise 460 460 caviare caviare 463 463 chestnut chestnut 2I8,471 218,471 cocks'combs cocks' combs 246 246 garnished 470-l 470-1

making making 86p 86p Marivaux Marivaux 460 460

mushroom mushroom 602 602 with with mussels mussels 471 471 d la normande 46Gl à la normande 460-1 oysters oysters 471,659 471, 659 d I'am6ricaine 660 à l'américaine 660 d la Nantua 660-l à la Nantua 660-1 d la normande 661 à la normande 661 savoury savoury 85p with with shrimps shrimps 471 471 853 sole sole 853 vegetables vegetables dà la la bouquetidre n.r."n"",n",rp 471 471 barrel barrel 86 86 basella basel\a 86 basil basil 86,86p 86, 86p 86 basquaise, basquaise, àd la la 86 87,87p bass bass 87,87p boiled, boiled, with with various various

87 sauces 87 sauces various with various braised, with garnishes and garnishes sauces and sauces

87 87 with various various cold, with cold, 87 sauces sauces 87 87 I'indienne 87 curried àd l'indienne curried Dugl6r6 87 87 87 fillets 87 fillets 87 fried fried 87 gratin 87 87 au gratÎn au grilled, various with grilled, with various 87 sauces 87 sauces livornaise 87 87 la lîvornaise àd la meunidre 88 88 la meunière àd la poached, with various poached, with various 87 sauces 87 sauces 88 i la portugaise 88 d la provengale 88 88 with stuffed braised, with garnishes 88 various garnishes various 88 88 bat 88 bat 88 ba-ta-clan 88 ba-ta-clan 88 bateaux bateaux 88 636 bathchaps 636 bath (bitons) 88 bitonnets bâtonnets (bâtons) 88 88 almond 88 almond 88 chocolate 88 chocolate 88 cumin88 cumin 88 hazelnut88 hazelnut 88 Jacob's88 lacob's 88 royal88 royal

INDEX

INDEX

with vanilla icing 88 with vanilla icing 88 batters: baba 319 batters: baba 319 biscuits: fine 320 biscuits: fine 320 Italian 320 ltalian 320 ordinary 320 320 Reims 320 Reims 320 Swiss 320 SwÎss 320 whisked over heat whisked over heat 320 320 for blini 128 for blini 128 crOpe (sweet) 319 crêpe (sweet) 319 cussy 319 cussy 319 for frying 88-9 for frying 88-9 galette 319 319 Genoese 319 319 gougdre 319 gougère 319 for little salted galettes for liule salted galettes 319 319 manqu6 319-20 319-20 small tea biscuits 319 tea biscui Is 319 for souffi6 fritters 319 for soufflé fritters 319 spongecake: fine 320 sponge cake: fine 320 Italian 320 Italian 320 ordinary 320 ordinary 320 Reims 320 Reims 320 Swiss 320 Swiss 320 whisked over heat whisked over heat 320 320 spongefingers 320 for Vienna fritters 319 Bavarian cream Bavarian cream (Bavarois) 89, 89p 89,89p d la c6venole 89 à la cévenole 89 d la cr6ole 89 à la créole 89 fruit 90p,91 fruit 90p,91 mixture for 594 mixture for 594 Mocha coffee 9l Mocha coffee 91 d la normande 89 à la normande 89 au parfait amour 89 amour 89 with pistachio nuts 89 pistachio nuts 89 raspberry 761 raspberry 761 auxroses 91 aux roses 91 strawberry 92 strawberry 92 striped 91,9Ip striped 91, 9Jp striped chocolate and striped chocolate and vanilla 9l vanilla 91 vanilla 91 vanilla 91 Bavarian cream mould Bavarian cream mould '-',",l.IV,",.",",

89p

bavaroise 9l bavaroise 9 J auxchoux 9l aux choux 91 bay 91 bay 91 Bayonne 9l-2 Bayonne 91-2 beans 92,92p beans 92,92p freezing 735 freezing 735 jelly 519 jelly 519 mixed 93 mixed 93 soup, cream of 874 soup, cream of 874 pur6e of 875 of 875 beans, broad 92 beans, broad 92 d I'anglaise 92 à 92

butter92 92 ininbutter 92 inincream cream 92 d la croque-au-sel92 92 àla frangaise 92 92 ài lalafrançaise pur6e92,747 92,747 with savory 92 with savory 92 beans, field field 92 92 beans, beans, flageolet 92 92 beans,

with parsley 94 potage d'Artois 879

pwile 747

beans,French French 92-3,464 92-3,464 beans, I'anglaise 93 93 àdl'anglaise bonne femme femme 93 93 àd lala bonne in brown brown butter butter 93 93 in in butter butter ài lala maître maitre in 93 d'h6tel 93 d'hôtel incream 93 cream 93 in dried 93 93 dried la française frangaise 93 93 àd la gratin 93 au gratin 93 au gravy 93 in gravy 93 in la lyonnaise 93 93 àd la d la normande 93 à la normande 93 pur6e 93, 93,747 747 salad 93, 93,93p salad salpicon 80 801 salpicon la d crdme 8011 à la crème 80 saut6ed àd la provengale la provençale sautéed 93 93 in tomate tomato sauce sauce 93 93 in beans, haricot 94p beans, haricot 94p cassoulet 193, 193,193p cassoulet 193p purbe 747 purée 747 beans, beans, Lima Lima 93 93 beans, red beans, red haricot: haricot: dried dried 93 93 fresh fresh 93 93 in in red red wine wine dà la la bourguignonne Irgtugnlonl:1e 94 94 soup, soup, puree of, of, called calJed dà la la Cond6 Condé 875 875 beans, beans, tonka tonka 94 94 beans, beans, white white haricot: haricot: cassoulet cassoület de de Castelnaudary Cas telnaudary 1934 193-4 dried dried 95 95 dà I'am6ricaine l'américaine 95 95 dà I'anglaise 95 95 dà la la berrichonne berrichonne 95 95 dà la la charcutidre charcutière 95 95 au au gratin 95 95 in in tomato tomato sauce sauce 95 95 fresh fresh 94 94 dàlalabretonne bretonne 94 94 ininbutter butter 94 94 en encassoulet cassoulet 94 94 incream in cream 94 94 croustades croustadesdàlala bretonne bretonne 475 475 estouffat estouffatdàI'occitane J'occitane 94 94 dàlalalyonnaise lyonnaise 94 94

pur6e 94-5 salad95 95 salad pur6e of soup, of sou p, purée (Soissonnaise) 875 875 (Soissonnaise) bear 95 95 bear ham 95 95 ham paw 95 95 B6arn 95-6,96p 95-6,96p gastronomic map map 96p 96p gasHonOITIIC beast 97 97 beast b6atilles 97 béa tilles 97 rago0t 97 97 Beauharnais, àd la la 97,410 97,410 Beauharnais, Beaujolais 97 97 ---'-J-'--Beaumont 97 97 Beaumont Beaune 97 97 Beaune Beauvilliers, Antoine Antoine Beauvilliers, 97-8 97-8 Beauvilliers (cake) (cake) 98 98 Beauvilliers Beauvilliers (garnish) (garnish) 98, 98, Beauvilliers 4tl 411 beaver 98 98 beaver b6casseau 98 98 bécasseau B6chameil, Louis Louis de de 98 98 He'Ch
l0l2 1012

104

saut6ed sau téeddàlala

lyonnaise lyonnaise 104 104 saut6ed sautéedParmentier Parmentier 104 104

with withtomato tomatosauce sauce 104 104

bouillon bouillon 104 104 braised braised 104 104

brisket brisket 104 104

carbonades: àdlala carbonades: flamande 104 104 flamande withlambic lambic 104 104 with Chateaubriand 104, 104, Chateaubriand l04p 104p contre-filet 104, 104, 105p l05p contre-filet braised àdl'ancienne I'ancienne braised 105 105 braised àdlala braised hA",.,."",.""", bourgeoise 105 105 cold, with various salads 105 with garnishes 105 105 with jellied 105 105 jellied coquilles au gratin 105 105 coq ui!les au cr6ole 105 àd lala créole croquettes 474 474 croquettes curried. hash hash 450 450 curried, cuts 100p, 100p, IOlp, lOlp,102p, cuts 102p, 103p I03p daube 105 105 daube l'ancienne 105 105 àd l'ancienne la béarnaise b6arnaise 105 105 àd la provengale àd la n"I'''''''",''' 105p, 106 6minc6s: with émincés: bordelaise sauce sauce 359 bordelaise chasseur 359 I'italienne 359 àd l'italienne d la lyonnaise 359 àla with mushrooms 359 with sauce with piquante sauce 359 with with poivrade poivrade sauce 359 with Robert Robert sauce 359 359 with tomato tomato sauce sauce 359 359 entrecdte entrecôte 106,361, 106,361, 36lp 361p dà la la b6arnaise béarnaise 106 106 la Bercy 106 dàla 106 dà la la bonne bonne femme femme 106 106 dà la bordelaise 106 106 la bordelaise dà la la bourguignonne bourguignonne 106 106 Dumas Dumas 106 106 dà la la fermidre fermière 106 106 dà la la forestidre forestière 106 106 'Grand-mdre' 'Grand-mère' 106 J 06 dàlalahongroise 106 106 dàlalalyonnaise lyonnaise 106 106 maitre maîtred'hOtel d'hôtel 106 106 marchand marchandde devin vin 106 106 dàlalam6nagdre 106 106 dàlalaminute minute 106 106 Mirabeau Mirabeau 106, 106,l07p 107p with withmushrooms mushrooms 106 106 dàlalanigoise niçoise 106-7 106-7

INDEX INDEX dà la la tyrolienne tyrolienne 107 107 auvert-pr6 au vert-pré 107 107 dà la la viennoise viennoise 107 107 107 essence 107

374 mignons 107, 107,374 filets mignons filets enchevreuil en chevreuil 107 107 fillet fillet 107-8, 107-8, l08p 108p cold cold 108 108 with garnish garnish 108 108 jellied, jellied, cold cold 108 108 London London House House 108 108 Matignon Matignon 108 108 dà la nigoise, niçoise. cold 108-9 108-9 ià la parisienne, parisienne, cold 109 ià la p6rigourdine périgourdine 108 108 Prince Prince Albert Al bert 108 d à la russe, cold cold 109 on skewers 108 6la à la strasbourgeoise, strasbourgeoise, cold cold 109 small 109 flilets; small fillets; grilled 109p l09p grilled l09p d la nigoise 109, 109p àlaniçoise steaks 109 fillet steaks flank flank 379 forcemeat 386 forcemeat forequarterflank 109 cooked 109 fricadelles : cooked fricadelles: raw 109 raw fritots 478 fritols fritters fritters àd la lyonnaise 479 479 glaze 109 109 glaze 110p, goulash 109-10, I10p, goulash 432 432 gros sel l0 sel 1I 10 aau u gros soup 885 Gulyas Gulyas soup 110, steak 110, Hamburger steak 447 447 447 la berlinoise berlinoise 447 àd la ll0 hash hash 110 450 herbs 450 with herbs 450 la hongroise hongroise 450 àd la 450 I'italienne 450 ài l'italienne àd la languedocienne languedocienne 450 450 450 la lyonnaise lyonnaise 450 àd la with mashed mashed with potatoes 450 450 potatoes 450 la Parmen Parmentier àd la tier 450 poached eggs with poached eggs with 450 450 polonaise 450 450 la polonaise àd la portugaise 450 450 la portugaise àd la potatoes 450 450 with potatoes with with Hungarian soup soup with Hungarian 886 dumplings 886 dumplings jambe de bois 517 517 de bois jambe

juices l0 Juices I110

dà I'am6ricaine l'américaine 99 99

l0 keftedes keftedes I110 liver, Iiver, see see liver, liver, ox ox marrow marrow 130 130 l0 en en cro0tes croûtes I110 fillet 110 medallions medallions of offillet 110 l0 miroton miroton I110 offal 628,629-33 628,629-33 oiseaux oiseaux sans t6te tête 'Loose 'Loose vinken' 649 649 omelette omelette dLà la m6nagdre ménagère 353 paupiettes l0 paupiettes I110 dà la bourguignonne bourguignonne ll0 110 dà la hongroise hongroise 110 110 with pilaf pilaf 110 110 with risotto risotto 110 110 Sainte-Menehould 110 110 withvegetables III with vegetables lll pie dà la parisienne 693 porterhouse steak 111 porterhouse steak III pressed II pressed 1III purbe 746 746 purée rago0t ragoût 1ll,1llp III, III P I I l-l2,ll2p rib rib 111-12, 112p I 12 àd la bouquetidre bouquetière 112 braised braised 112 garnish 112 with garnish jellied 112 l12 jellied I 12 cold 112 àd la mode, cold roast ll3 roast 113 I l2p decorating 112p hash hash 450 rib 112, Il2,ll2p roast rib 112p I'anglaise 112 àd l'anglaise round 781 781 round 113,782 rump 113,782 rump steak 113 rump steak I l3 and smoked smoked 113 salt and salt 113 saut6s 113 sautés 113 shoulder 113 shoulder 781 silverside sil vers ide 781 846 112p,113, sirloin 112p, sirloin 113,846 I 13 la d'AI d'Albuf6ra àd la buféra 113 113 braised 113 braised with various various braised, with braised, garnishes 1113 gamishes 13 left-over pieces left-over 113 braisedorroast braised or roast 113 I 13 roast 113 roast 113 I'anglaise 113 àd l'anglaise various with various with garnishes 113 I 13 garnishes with various various sliced, with sliced, I 14 sauces 114 sauces 848 fillets 848 small fillets small 461 smoked 461 smoked 99 steak 99 steak 110 I'allemande 110 àd l'allemande

ià I'andalouse l'andalouse 99 99 dcheval à cheval 99 99

and and kidney kidney pudding pudding 740 74û and and oyster oyster pudding pudding 740 pie pie 99 pudding pudding 740 740 dà la la russe msse 102 102 tartarc tartare 102,102p 102, 102p subrics subrics ià la la m6nagdre ménagère 905 d tartare 916 916 à la tartare tea tea 114 114 tip of of sirloin sirloin 846 846 top top rump rump ll4,ll4p, 114, 114p, 932 932 d à la bourgeoise bourgeoise 114 114 d à la bourguignonne bourguignonne I114-15 l/t-15 braised braised dà I'ancienne l'ancienne ll5 115 àd la mode mode 115 Ils skirt 115 top skirt 115 tournedos tournedos 115,931 Abrantds 115 Abrantès 115 115 I'algerienne 115 ài l'algérienne 115 archiduc Ils archiduc 115 àd la b6arnaise béarnaise 115 15 la bordelaise bordelaise I115 àd la chasseur l15 115 115 Choron 115 Choron 115 Clamart 115 àd la Clamart Helder 115 115 Helder 15 Henri IV 115 115, 115p 1l5p Marguery 115, Marguery 115 Massena 115 Massena I 15 with mushrooms Ils with p6rigourdine àd la périgourdine ll5 115 portugaise 116 I 16 la portugaise àd la I l6 Rossini 116 Rossini I 16 Saint-Germain 116 Saint-Germain 116 la vinaigrette vinaigrette 116 àd la I 16 Beefeaters 116 Beefeaters 116-18 beer 116-18 beer 118 barley 118 barley ginger 118 118 ginger 118 home-made 118 home-made ll6-l7p making 116-17p making malt 118 118 malt 118,883,884p soup 118,883,884p soup glass 915 915 beer glass beer 118 beestings 118 beestings 118 beeswax 118 beeswax (beet) 118, I l8p, I 18, 118p, beetroot (beet) beetroot 46r 461 I'anglaise 1118 àd l'anglaise 18 b6chamel 1119 la béchamel àd la 19 Il9.46I incream in cream 119, 461

1013 1013

M

freezing freezing 735 735

for for garnish garnish 119 119 ingravy in gravy l19 119 and and hard-boiled hard-boiled eggs eggs 461 461 dà la lyonnaise 119 119 la lyonnaise dà la la normande normande 461 461 dà la la poitevine poitevine 119 119 ptxbe purée 747 747 461,789 salad salad 461,789 dà la la crdme crème 789 789 dà la la polonaise polonaise 789 789 salpicon salpicon 800 800 soup: soup: dà I'allemande l'allemande 883 883 dà la la russe russe 883 883 l9 stuffed stuffed cassolettes cassolettes I119 beignets, see see fritters fritters 19 Beilche Beilche I119 Belgium: Belgium' cookery cookery 503-4 503-4 bellevue bellevue 393 393 19 Belshazzar Belshazzar I119 beluga beluga 119 119 B6n6dictin 119 Bénédictin 119 ben6dictine bénédictine (dish) (dish) 393 393 B6n6dictine Bénédictine (liqueur) (liqueur) 120 120 l20,4ll ben6dictine, bénédictine, àd la la 120,411 120, Berchoux, Joseph 120, Berchoux, Joseph r20p 120p 120,120p bergamot bergamot 120, 120p berlingot 120 berlingot 120 Emile 120 120 Bernard, Emile Bernard, la 120,411 l20,4lt berrichonne, àd la berrichonne, 737 freenng 737 berries: freezing berries: Berry 120-1 Berry gastronomic map l2lpp map 121 gastronomic 393 Berry, àd la Berry. la 393 la turque 471 turque 471 beurrecks àd la beurrecks I2l-2 beverages 121-2 beverages 122 in dietetics dietetics 122 in 1224 fermented 122-4 fermented 124 Bbzierc 124 Béziers soep 124 124 Bezieu soep Bezieu l24,4ll Biarrotte, à la 124,411 Biarrotte, 124 of soda soda 124 bicarbonate bicarbona te of 300 curry 300 bichique: curry bichique: 124 Louis 124 Bignon, Louis Bignon, 95-6 Bigorre 95-6 Bigorre 124 bigos 124 bigos 124 bijane 124 bijane 124 bilberry 124 bilberry 124 bile 124 bile bird 124-5 124-5 bird 125 bird's-foot trefoil trefoil 125 bird's-foot nests 622-3, 622-3, 623p 623p birds' nests birds' with 870 870 consomm6 with consommé 910 soup 910 soup 178 Bireweck 178 Bireweck 125,l25p biscuits 125, biscuits 125p 125 apricot 125 apricot 125 army 125 army

l2Fl

ila

INDEX

INDEX

batter for 319, 320 batterfor 319,320 chocolate soufr6 125 chocola te soufflé 125 Genoa 125 Genoa ginger 125 125-6 ginger 125-6 Italian 126 Italian 126 lemon 126 lemon 126 ring-biscuit 777 ring-biscuit 777 onnge 777 orange 777 sweet 1254 sweet 125-6 unleavened, small 126 unleavened, small 126 bishop 126 bishop 126 iced 126 iced 126 Rhine wine 126 Rhine wine 126 bison 126,l26p bison 126, 126p bisque 126 bisque 126 crayfish 283,876 crayfish 283, 876 lobster 876 lobster 876 shrimp 878 shrimp 878 spiny lobster 878 spiny lobster 878 bistort 126 bistort 126 bitok 126 bitok 126 bitter 126-7 bitter 126-7 bitter ash 127 bitter ash 127 blackberry 143 bl ackberry 143 blackbird 127 blackbird 127 pie 692,693 pie 692,693 black cumin 127 black cumin 127 blackcurrant 127 blackcurrant 127 icing 498 icing 498 liqueur 555 liqueur 555 syrup 912 syrup 912 wine 124 wine 124 black pudding 719-20 black pudding 719-20 ri I'anglaise 720 à l'anglaise 720 with apples, d la with apples, à la normande 720 normande 720 ilaflamande 720 à la flamande 720 omelette d la omelette à la nanc6ienne 353 nancéienne 353 with sour apple 506p with sour apple 506p water soup 882 water soup 882 bladder 127 bladder 127 Blaisois (Bl6sois) 127 Blaisois (Blésois) 127 blanc 127 blanc 127 Blanc de Blancs 127 Blanc de Blancs 127 blanching 127 blanching 127 blancmange 127 blancmange 127 blanquettes 128 blanquettes 128 lamb 536 lamb 536 d I'ancienne 536 à l'ancienne 536 d la m6nagdre 128 à la ménagère 128 pig's lights 637 pig's lights 637 rabbit, wild 759 rabbit, wild 758 veal 952-3,957p veal 952-3, 957p d l'ancienne 953 à l'ancienne 953 with garnishes 953 with garnishes 953 Blanquette de Limoux Blanquette de Limoux 128 128 bleak 128, l28p bleak 128, 128p blender 128 128 blender128 blenny blenny 128

bletting852 852 bletting bleu, au 128 au 128 bleu, blind, baking baking 128 128 blind, blinis128, 128,471 blinis 471 batter for 128 128 batterfor with carrots carrots471 471 with with caviare 471 with caviare 471 witheggs eggs 471 471 with frying pan pan for for 128p l28p frying Lithuanian 471 Lithuanian 471 bloater 128 128 bloater canapbs472 472 canapés block 128 block 128 blonddeveau 129 blond de veau 129 blond de de volaille 129 blond volaille 129 blondir 129 129 blondir blood 129 129 blood blood sausage, sausage, see see black black blood pudding pudding blossom: fritters fritters 396 396 blossom: blue gazelle 129 blue gazelle 129 blue grass 26 blue grass 26 bocal 129 129 bocal Boeuf d la Mode 766 Boeuf à la Mode 766 boiling 129 129 boiling bol6e 129 bolée 129 boletus 129 129 boletus bombes 129 bombes 129 Aida 493 493 Aida Algerian 493 493 Algerian Alhambra 493 Alhambra 493 American 493 American 493 Bourdaloue 493 Bourdaloue 493 cardinal 493 493 cardinal Chateaubriand, 493 Chateaubriand 493 dame-blanche 494 dame-blanche 494 dauphinoise 494 dauphinoise 494 diplomate 494 diplomate 494 Doria Doria 494 494 duchesse 494 duchesse 494 Francillon Francillon 494 494 Gismonda Gismonda 494 494 Grimaldi Grimaldi 494 494 Hbricart Héricart 494 494 imp,6ratrice impératrice 494 494 M6dicis Médicis 494 494 Monselet Monselet 494 494 Montmorency Montmorency 494 494 moulds moulds 129p 129p Nelusko cream 494 494 Nel usko ice icecream Nesselrode 494 Nesselrode 494 succds 494 succès 494 tutti-frutti tutti-frutti 494 494 V6ronique 494 Véronique 494 bonbon bonbon 129 129 bone bone 130 130 bone-marrow bone-marrow 130 130 beef beef 130 130 canap6s 130 canapés 130 croquettes croquettes 474 474 cro0tes with 476 croûtes with 476

duxelles,scallop scallop àdlaladuxelles, shellsof of485 485 shells flanàdlalabordelaise bordelaise377 377 flan fritots130,478 130,478 fritots omelette352 352 omelette ptudding 742 742 pudding salpicon130 130 salpicon vol-au-vent 130 130 vol-au-vent Bonfinger 766 Bonfinger 766 boning 130 130 boning bonito 130,683 130,683 bonito bonne-femme 411 411 bonne-femme Bonnes-Mares 130 BonnesMares 130 bonvalet 98, 98, 130 130 bonvalet boops 130 130 boops borage 130 130 borage borax 130 130 borax bord-de-plat 130 130 bord-de-plat Bordeaux l3G-4 Bordeaux 130-4 map ofwine-growing of wine-growing map districts l3lp districts 131 p wine lodges lodges 262-3 262-3 wine Bordelais: wine wine lodges lodges Bordelais: 263p 263p bordelaise, àdla 134, 4ll la 134,411 bordelaise, border, see see ring irng border, boric acid acid 136 136 boric borshch: Polish Polish 883-4 883-4 borshch: Russian 884 Russian 884 Botherel, de Bothere1, Vicomte Vicomte de 136 136 bottle gourd 180 180 bottle gourd bottles bottles 136-7,136p 136-7, 136p bottling bottling 733 733 botulism botulism 137 137 Botvinga Botvinga 884 884 boucanade boucanade 137 137 Boucheduroi Bouche du roi 137,137p 137,137p bouch6es, bouchées, see see patties patties bougras bougras 138,882 138, 882 bouillabaisse bouillabaisse 138-9 138-9 borgne borgne 139 139 Breton Breton 277 277 cod cod 139 139 ocean ocean 139 139 dà la la parisienne parisienne 139-40 139-40 saltcod 252 salt cod 252 dà la la m6nag&e ménagère 252 252 sardine sardine 140,805 140,805 spinach spinach 140 140 bouillant bouillant 140 140 bouilleture bouilleture(bouilliture) (bouilliture) 140 140 bouillons 140 bouillons 140 cereal cereal 140 140 clarification clarification 140 140 herb herb 140 140 denoce de noce 140 140 vegetable vegetable 140 140 bouillon bouillonaveugle aveugle 140 140 boulangdre, l boulangère,dàlala4l411

l0l4 1014

boule-de-neige (agaric) (agaric) boule-de-neige t40 140 boule-de-neige boule-de-neige (pdtisserie) 140 140 (pàtisserie) boule de deson son141 141 boule boulette 141 l4l boulette Boulogne 52p 52p Boulogne bouquet 141 141 bouquet bouquetgarni 141 bouquet garni 141 bouquetidre, àdlala 141,411 l4l,4ll bouquetière, Bourbonnais 141 l4l Bourbonnais Bourdaloue, àdlala 393 393 Bourdaloue, bourgeoise, àdla l4l, 4ll la 141,411 bourgeoise, Bourgueil 141 141 Bourgueil Bourgogne: wine wine lodges lodges Bourgogne: 263p 263p bourguignonne, àdla 160, bourguignonne, la 160, 4rr 411 bourride 141 l4l bourride Bourru 141 l4l Bourru Bouteiller 141 l4l Bouteiller bowels 142 142 bowels bowls 142, 142,l42p bowls 142p boxcrab 180 180 boxcrab brabangonne,dla 142, I42, brabançonne,àla 4tl 411 brains 142 brains I'allemande 638 àd l'allemande scallop shells of 485 scallop àd I'anglaise l'anglaise 638 d scallop à I'aurore, l'aurore, scallop shells of shells of 485 attereaux attereaux': dà l'ancienne l'ancienne 470 dà I'italienne l'italienne 470 dà la la mirepoix mirepoix 470 ià lala bordelaise bordelaise 633 633 dà la bourguignonne 638 638 la bourguignonne in in browned browned butter butter 638 638 calves'638 ca Ives' 638 attereaux attereaux Villeroi Villeroi 60 60 fritots fritots 478 478 fritters fritters 395 395 salad 790 sai ad 790 coldjellied cold jellied 639 639 dà la la parisienne parisienne 639 639 croquettes croquettes 474 474 dà la la duxelles, duxelles, scallop scallop shells shellsof of 485 485 fried: batter 638 638 fried: ininbatter dàla laprovengale provençale 638 638 iàlalaromaine romaine 638 638 fritters fritters 395 395 au augratin gratin 638 638 dàlalahongroise hongroise 638 638 dàI'indienne l'indienne 638 638 dàl'italienne l'italienne 638 638 injelly 638-9 in jelly 638-9 lambs': lambs':attereaux attereaux Villeroi Villeroi 60 60 loaf loafriàI'ancienne l'ancienne 639 639

INDEX INDEX en en matelote matelote 639 639

in noisette butter butter 638 638 in noisette ox ox 629 629 dà la la poulette poulette 639 639 pur6e purée 746 746 salpicon salpicon 800 800 sheep's 633,841 841 fritots fritots 478 478 soufr6 soufflé 863 dà la la chanoinesse chanoinesse 863 863 dà la la hongroise hongroise 864 864 subrics 486 486 dà l'italienne l'italienne 486 486 braising 142,295-6 142,295-6 braising pan pan 143, 143, 143p for fillet beef beef l08p 108p bramble bramble 143 bran bran 143 143 brandade brandade 143 143 brandevinier 143 brasserie brasserie 143 Brasserie des Martyrs 766 brazilnut brazil nut 143 143-5,IMp,l45p bread bread 143-5, 144p, 145p azymous 67 azymous choine 146 choine consecrated 146 consecrated con 275 corn croustade 292, 292,292p croustade 292p cro0tes 292-3 croûtes 294,294p croffton 294, croûton 1454 dietetics 145-6 in dietetics and English bread and sauce 819 butter sauce butter loaf 146 English loaf English rolls: with eggs finger rolls: r46 146 with rnîlk milk 146 wÎth loaf 146 French rolled loaf gluten 427 gluten 146 Gonesse 146 Gonesse 433 Graham 433 Graham 146 la grecque 146 loaf ài ta 146 la terrine 146 loaf àri la loaf 146 offering 146 offering 146 ordinary 146 ordinary panada 663 663 panada plaited 146 146 pudding: French 741 French 741 pudding: German 741 741 German with fruit, fruit, German German with 741,742p 741, 741 with red red wine 741 with 147,809,810, sauce 147,809,810, sauce 8r7 817 for soups soups 146 146 for loaf 146 146 tin loaf tin toast 781 781 toast 146 unleavened 146 unleavened Viennese 146 146 Viennese

d la

breadcrumb,to breadcrumb, to 147 147 with with egg egg 147 147 ià lala milanaise milanaise 146 146 breadcrumbs breadcrum bs 146 146 breadfruit breadfruit 147,l47p 147, 147p bream bream 147,147p 147, 147p Br6bant-Vachette Brébant-Vachette 766 766 brddes brèdes 147 147 cabbage "''''''''U'''I''-''' 147-8 147-8 lettuce lettuce 148 148 pumpkin pumpkin 148 148 spinach 148 148 watercress wa tercress 148 148 bresolles bresolles 148, 393 393 Bresse 148 148 brestois brestois 148 Breton (cake) 148 148 Breton far 148 bretonne, dà la la 148,411 Brie Brie 148 brignole 148 brill brill 148-9,148p,l49p 148-9, 148p, 149p d il I'am6ricaine l'américaine 149 dl'amiral à J'amiral 149,149p J49, 149p d la Bercy 149 àla boiled, with wÎth various sauces 149 sauces femme 149 àd la bonne femme 149 àd la bourguignonne bourguignonne 149 braised, with various garnishes 149 Brancas 149-50 Brancas cancalaise 150 ài la cancalaise cardinal 150 cardinal 150 au Chambertin Chambertin 150 au in Champagne 150 150 Ch6rubin 150 Chérubin sauces cold, in various sauces cold, 150 150 with crayfish 150 150 with 150 increamaugratin 150 i la dieppoise 150 150 Dugl6r6 150 150 d la fermidre 150 150, 15lp l5lp fillets 150, fillets 150 I'anglaise 150 àd l'anglaise la créole cr6ole 150-1 150-1 àd la 151 curried 151 curried la Duxelles Duxelles 151 151 àd la 151 Richelieu 151 Richelieu l5l la toulonnaise toulonnaise 151 àd la l5l la tyrolienne 151 àd la V6ron 151 151 Véron florentine 151 151 àd lala florentine l5l fried 151 fried gratin 151 151 au gratin au grilled 151 l5l grilled with various various with garnishes 151 l5l m6connaise àdJla a mâco nnaise 1151 51

i

marinidre

broiling broiling 296,436 436

152

brooklime brooktime 156 156 broth: brolh: barley barley 85 85

la m6nagdre 152

Mornay

152

scallop shells

of

485

with with mushrooms mushrooms 152 152 with with mussels mussels 152 152 dà la la Nantua Nantua 150 150 dà la la normande normande 152 152 with with oysters oysters 152 152

sur sur le le plat plat 152 152 poached poached with wÎth various various sauces sauces 149 149 dà la la portugaise portugaise 152 152 dà la la provengale provençale 152 152 in in red red wine wine 152 152 dà la la russe russe 152 152 in in scallop scallop shells shells 152 l52 with with shrimps shrimps 152 152 stuffed with salmon, salmon, stuffed with with with various various sauces sauces 152 andgarnishes and 152 dà la la trouvillaise, lrouvillaise, scallop scallop shells shells of of 485 485 d à la v6nitienne vénitienne 152 152 152 d à la Victoria Victoria 152 wine 152 152 in in white white wine Brillat-Savarin, Jean Jean Anthelme Anlhelme 152-3 152-3 (garnish) Brillat-Savarin (garnish) Brillat-Savarin t53,4ll-12 153,411-12 217 briloli 217 briloli 153 brine brine l53 153-4, 1l53p brioche 153-4, brioche cheese 154 154 cheese 463 with ca.viare caviare 463 with l54p 154, 154p encouronne en couronne 154, la bohémienne boh6mienne filled, àd la filled, 154

garnished 471

Goubaud 154, 154p mousseline 154,l54p mousseline 155 small 155 small garnished 461 o<>r .... "'h"'l1 461 154,154p àitOte tête 154, 315-16, brioche dough 315-16, brioche 6t7 617 316 mousseline 316 mousseline 154 fruit 154 briochin: fruÎt briochin: 154 brioli 154 brioli Baron 154 154 Brisse, Baron Brisse, 155-6 Brittany 155-6 155-6 beverages 155--6 specialities culinary "IJ"'·'""UL>U'~'" culinary 156 156 gastronomic map map 155p gastronomie 156 broccoli \56 brocco\î 735 freezing 735 freezing fritters 395 395 friners 471-2 brochettes 471-2 brochettes 472 sweetbreads 472 sweetbreads 156 brocket 156 brocket

l0l5 tol5

chicken chicken 885 885 crab crab and and shellfish shellfish 281 281 herb herb 453 453 Longchamp Longchamp 565 565 mutton mullon 608,887 608,887 snail snail 850 850 turkey turkey pinion pinion 701 701 broutes broutes (broutons) (broutons) 156 156 broye broye 156 156 brunoise brunoise 156 156 vegetable, for soups V"";'"'L
l58p

buffet, station 159 Bugey 159 culinary specialities 159 159 159 bugloss 159 bug10ss 159 bugnes 159 cookery 504 504 Bulgaria: cookery Bulgaria: 159 bull 159 bull bully-beef 1159 bully-beef 59 160 Bundenfleisch 160 Bundenfleisch l77p buns 177p buns 160 bunting 160

bunting, garden,see see ortolan ortolan

burbot 160 160 burbot fillets àdlacrilole 782 fillets la créole 782 160 liver 160 Iiver 160 burdock 160 burdock Burgundy 160-4 160-4 Burgundy gastronomic map map 16\ l6lpp gastronomie wine-growing of wine-growing map of map district 162p l62p district wine lodges 263-4 2634 wine

INDEX

INDEX

wine manufacture wine manufacture l63p 163p bruxelloise, d,la 157, 412 bruxelloise, à la 157,412 bush, ina 164 bush,ina 164 bustard 164 bustard Butcher's164 broom 164, 456 Butcher's broom 164,456 butcher's shop 164-6, butcher's shop 164-6, 165p, 166p 165p,166p butcher's tools l66p butcher's tools 166p Buts6ga 888 Butséga 888 butter 166-7 butter 166-7 clarification 245 clarification melted 169 245 melted 169 lamb made of 84 lamb made of 84 making t66-7,166p, making 167p 166-7, 166p, 167p preservation 167 preservation 167 sauce 817-18 sauce with817-18 chervil 818 with chervil 818 buttercream 286 butter cream 286 mixture 594 mixture 594 butter dish 170 butter dish 170 buttermilk 136,170 buttermilk 136, 170 soup 170 soup 170 butters: almond 16. 168 butters: almond 16,168 anchovy 168 anchovy Bercy 168168 Bercy 168 brown 168 brown 168 caviare 168 caviare chive 168168 chive Chivry168 168 Chivry 167-8 168 cocoa cocoa 167-8 coconut 168 coconut 168 Colbert 168 Colbert 168 compound 168-70 compound 168-70 crab 168 crab 168 crayfish 168 crayfish 168 cream 286 cream 286 mixture 594 mixture 594 filbert 168 filbert 168 garlic 168,408 garlic 168,408 Gascoigne 168 Gascoigne 168 green 168 green 168 hazelnut 168 hazelnut 168 herring 168 herring 168 horseradish 168 horseradish 168 kneaded 168 kneaded 168 thickening with 922 thickening lemon 168 with 922 lemon 168 lobster 169 lobster 169 maitre d'h6tel 169,572 maître d'hôtel 169,572 marchand de vins 169 marchand de vins 169 Marseille 169 Marseille 169 mazain 320 mazarin 320 meunidre 169 meunière 169 Montpellier 169,596 Montpellier J 69,596 mushroom 169 mushroom 169 mustard 169 mustard 169 noisette 169 noisette 169 nutmeg 168 nutmeg 168 paprika 169 paprika 169

peanut

168 peanut 168 pistachio 169 pistachio 169 printanier 169 printanier 169 ravigote 169 ravigote 169 red 169 red 169 salmon 169 salmon 169 sardine 169,805 sardine 169,805 shallot 169,841 shallot 169, 841 shrimp 169 shrimp 169 for snails,àdlala for snails, bourguignonne 169 bourguignonne 169 softroe 169-70 soft roe 169-70 spiny lobster 170,892 spin y lobs ter 170,892

sweet

pimento

170 sweet pimento 170 tarragon 170 tarragon 170 tomato 170 tomato 170 truffie 170 trume 170 tunny 170 tunny 170 vegetable 167-8 vegetable 167-8 vierge 967 vierge 967 walnut 168, 170 walnut 168,170 butyric acrd 170 170 butyric acid butyrometer 170,l70p bu tyrometer 170, 170p butyrons 170 butyrons 170 buvette 170 buvette 170

c

C

cabaret 17l-2,17lp cabaret 171-2, 171p cabaretier l22p cabaretier 122p cabbage 172 cabbage 172 boiled boiled 172 172 braised 172 braised 172 brddes 147-8 brèdes 147-8 freezing 735 freezing 735 as hors d'oeuvre 461 as hors d'oeuvre 461 little stuffe d balls 17 2. !ittle stuffed balls 172, I72p 172p in marinade I72 in marinade 172 pickled 828-9 pickled 828-9 salad 172 salad 172 sou-fassum 863 sou-fassum 863 soup with cabbage and soup with cabbage and miques 882 miques 882 stalks and stumps 174 stalks and stumps 174 stuffed 174,l74p stuffed 174, 174p d la provengale à la provençale 173p,174 173p, 174

stuffedrolls rclls174, 174,174p stuffed 174p cabbage,Chinese Chinese240, 240, cabbage, 240p 240p cabbage,red: red:àdlala cabbage, flamande174 174 flamande horsd'oeuvre d'oeuvre 461 461 asashors limousine 174 174 àdlalalimousine marinade174 174 ininmarinade stalks andstumps stumps stalks and 174 174 cabbagepalm palm 174 174 cabbage endaube daube 174 174 en cachalot 174 174 cachalot cachou 175 175 cachou cadinas 175, 175,175p cadinas 175p Cadran Bleu Bleu 766 766 Cadran Caf6 Anglais Anglais 766, 766,766p Café 766p Caf6 des des Aveugles Aveugles 766 766 Café Caf6 de de Flore Flore 766--7 766-7 Café Caf6 de de Foy Foy 767 767 Café Caf6 Lemblin 767 Café Lemblin 767 Caf6 de de Paris Paris 767 767 Café Caf6 de de Valois Valois 767 767 Café Caf6 des des Varietiés Yarietils 767 767 Café caf6s 175--6, 175-6,l75p cafés 175p caffeine 176 176 caffeine caillebotte 176 176 caillebotte caillette 1I caillette caillier 176 176 caillier caissettes 472 472 caissettes cakerackortray cake rack or tray 180 180 cakes 176-8 cakes 176--8 angel ange! 178 178 Easter: Easter: coque coque du du Lot Lot 274 274 German German 178, 178, 178p 178p Russian Russian 178-9 178-9 Genoa Genoa 178 178 Genoese Genoese 422-3 422-3 apicot apricot 423 423 with chocolate filling filling with chocolate 423,423p 423,423p with with mocha mocha cream cream 423 423 with with filling filling dà la la normande normande 423 423 large large l77p 177p Madeira Madeira 570 570 Mecca Mecca 179 179 Milanese Milanese 589 589 mocha mocha 594 594 Montmorency Montmorency 596 596 nougatine nougatine 626-7 626--7 plum plum 179 179 punch punch 179 179 small small 177p 177p spice spice 179 179 Twelfth-Night Twelfth-Night 179-80, 179-80, 402,675 402,675 Victoria Victoria967 967 wedding wedding 180 180

l0l6 1016

calabashgourd 180 calabash gourd 180 calamary180 180 calama~y stuffedàdlalamarseillaise marseillaise stuffed r80 180 calappa 180 180 calappa calefaction180-1 180-l calefaction calendar, gastronomie gastronomic calendar, 42r 421 calf:brains, brains, see see brains brains calf: crow l8] 181 crow ears 181 181 ears braised:: àdlala braised mirepoix 639 639 mirepoix braised: Mont-Bry Mont-Brv braised: 639 639 fried 639 639 fried grilled àri la la diable diable grilled 639 639 la hongroise hongroise 639 639 àd la I'indienne 639 639 àd l'indienne l'italienne 639 639 àd l'italienne stuffed en en tortue tortue 639 639 stuffed en tortue tortue 639 639 en Villeroi 639--40 63940 Villeroi feet 181, 181,640,640p feet 640, 640p fritots 478 fritots I'indienne 640 àd l'indienne l'italienne 640 àd I'italienne with with tartare sauce 640 640 àd la vinaigrette 640 head head 181,640 181,640 d à I'anglaise l'anglaise 640 dà la bonne bonne femme femme 640 Caillou Caillou 640 640 in in cr6pinettes crépinettes 640 640 dà la la financidre financière 640 640 fried fried 640-l 640-1 fritots fritots 478 478 Godard Godard 641 641 with with Gribiche Gribiche sauce sauce 641 641 hot, hot, with with various various sauces sauces 641 641 dà I'italienne l'italienne 641 641 dà la lalyonnaise lyonnaise 641 641 dàI'occitane l'occitane 641 641 ininoil ail 641 641 with witholives olives 641 641 dàlalapochette pochet te 641 641 dàlalaportugaise portugaise 641 641 dàlalaravigote ravigote 641 641 stuffed stuffed 641 641 stuffed stuffeddàI'ancienne l'ancienne 641-2 641-2 dàlalaTertillidre Tertillière 642 642 en entortue tortue 642 642 dàlalatoulousaine toulousaine642 642 dàlalavinaigrette vinaigrette642 642 heart heart l8l 181

INDEX INDEX l'anglaise 642 642 ià I'anglaise

à la la bonne bonne femme femme d 642 642 casserole 642 roast 642 rcast 642 sautéed 642 642 saut6ed stuffed, with various various stuffed, vegetables 642 642 kidneys, see kidneys kidneys, see liver liver, see lungs' àd la bourgeoise bourgeoise lungs: 644 644 à la poulette poulette 644 d stewed 644

588,6M mesentery 588,644 mesentery fried 644 fried fritots [ritots 478 fritters 395 fritters àd la hongroise 6M 644 àdl'indienne l'indienne 6M 644 àd la lyonnaise 644 644 àd la poulette poulette 644 sweetbreads, see sweetbreads ton gue, see tongue tongue, l8l udder udder 181 181, 313 calories 14,181,313 calories 14, Cambacérès, Cambac6rds, Jeande 181, Jacques, Jacques, duc de 181p 18lp camel 181 camel 181 l8l couscous couscous 181 escalopes escalopes with pimentos and l8l aubergines aubergines 181 l8l vinaigrette 181 feet àd la vinaigrette feet paunch àd la marocaine 182 pilaf 182 pilaf with tomato ragott, with ragol!t, sauce sauce 182 rice 182 ribs with rice fillet 181-2 l8l-2 roast fillet hump 182 roast hump camomile camo mile 182 182 Campanula Campanula 182 wood 182 Campeachy Campeachy wood cookery 501 501 Canada: cookery 182,461,461p, canapés 461p, canap6s 182,461, 462p,472 Aurora 461 461 Aurora la bayonnaise bayonnaise 461 461 àd la bloater 472 472 with bloater with bordalaise 461 461 àd la bordalaise caviare 461 461 wi th caviare with 461 crayfish crayfish 461 danoise 461 461 la danoise àd la florentine 472 472 la florentine ài la cheese with Gruyère Gruydre cheese with 472 472 ham 472 472 with ham with

with hard-boiled eggs eggs with hard-boiled 472 472

Harlequin 461 Har1equin 461 herring 461 d à la hollandaise hollandaise 461-2 horseradish horseradish dà I'anglaise l'anglaise 489 489 Laguipidre Laguipière 462 462 d à la livonienne livonienne 462 lobster lobs ter 462 Monselet 462 462 Mont-Bry 462 462 d à la moscovite 462 462 d à la nantaise nantaise 462 Ninon Ninon 462 462 àd la parisienne 462 with pickled tongue tongue 462 462 àd la printani&e printanière 462 462 àd,lareine la reine 462 462 salad 462 Russian R ussian salad with sardines 472 with scrambled scrambled eggs 472 shrimp 462 shrimp 462 eel 462 smoked eel smoked àd la Veron Veron 462 Yictoia Victoria 472 watercress wa tercress 462 462 with York ham ham 462 182, 182p l82p canarygrass canary grass 182, 182, 412 cancalaise, àd,la la 182,412 candy 182 candy cane 183 cane canejuice 183 canejuice garnished 472 canneloni: garnished canning 733 canteen 183 canteen Canton 183 Canton (caplin) 183 capelin (caplin) capers ca pers 183 sauce 818 818 sauce capilotade 792 capilotade capitaine 183 capitaine caponata 183 caponata capons 183 capons butter 219 baked in butter baked àd la Matignon 2t9 219 boiled 222 boiled 219 braised 219 braised crust 183 in pastry crust in poached 222 poached Capua 183 Capua (burnt sugar) sugar) caramel (bumt caramel 183 183 cream mixture mixture caramel cream caramel 594 594 custard 301, 301. caramel custard caramel 30lp 301p 184 caramelise 184 caramelise

caramels 183 183 chocolate chocolate 183 183 coffee 183 183 hazelnut hazelnut 183-4 183-4 pistachio-nut pistachio-nut 184 184 caraway caraway 184, 184p 184p carbohydrates carbohydrates ll 11 carbon dioxide 184 184 carcase 184 184 carciofa dà I'inferno l'inferno 49 Cardamine Cardamine 184 184 cardamom cardamom 184 184 cardinal, cardi nal, dà la la 184, 393, 412 412 cardinal fish fish 184 cardinaliser 184 cardinaliser 184 cardoons 184 cardoons 184 in b6chamel béchamel sauce sauce 184 in butter butter 184 with cream cream 184-5 auxfines aux fines herbes herbes 185 fried fried 185 fritters friners 395 àdla la grecque grecque 185 àd I'italienne J'italienne 185 gratin6s gratinés 185 àd la lyonnaise 185 with marrow 185 withmarrow àd la milanaise milanaise 185 Mornay Mornay 185 with Parmesan Parmesan 185 pur6e purée 185 raw, àd la pi6montaise piémontaise 18s 185 salad 185 salad various sauces with various 185 (MarieCar0me, Antonin (MarieCarême, 185-7, 185p l85p Antoine) 185-7, Antoine) cabbage 187 Caribbean cabbage thistle 187 carline thist1e carm6lite 393 carmélite carminative 187 carminative carmine 187 carmine Carnation 187 Carnation liqueur 555 liqueur Carnival 187 Carnival 565 carob tree tree 565 carob 187,462 carolines 187,462 carolines carotene 187 carotene 187,187p, l88p carp 187, carp J87p, 188p I'alsacienne 187 àd l'alsacienne bleu 188 188 au bleu au l88p Chambord 188, 188, 188p Chambord 188 cold 188 cold cookedinbeer 187-8 cooked in beer 187-8 court-bouillon 188 188 au court-bouillon au fillets 188 fillets fried 188 188 frjed grilled àd la maitre la maître grilled 188 d'h6tel 188 d'hôtel

l0l7 1017

i

à la la juive juive 188 188 dà I'orientale l'orientale 188 with with parsley parsley 188 188 with with raisins raisins 188 188 en matelote matelote 188 188 matelote matelote dà la canotidre canotière 580

polonaise polonaise 189 189 quenelles quenelles 189 roast 189 189 roes roes 189,851 stuffed l'ancienne 189 189 stuffed ià I'ancienne carpillon carpillon (carpeau) 189 189 carpion 189 189 carrier carrier pigeon pigeon 189 189 carrots carrots 189, l89p 189p sauce 189 in b6chamel béchamel sauce J 89 blinis 471 471 boiled boiled 189 189 buttered buttered 189 189 encheveuxd'ange en cheveux d'ange 189 àd la crdme crème 189-90 189-90 croustades Yichy croustades Vichy 476 auxfinesherbes aux fines herbes 190 flan àd la flamande 378 fondants Crécy Crbcy 477 fondue fondue 384 freezing 735 735 freezing glazed 190 glazed aujus 190 aujus 352 omelette àdlaCrbcy la Crécy 352 patties Cr6cy 483 patties àri la Crécy pirozhki 703 pirozhki potage potage Velours Velours 881 pur6e 190,747 purée 190, 747 with cream 190 wi th cream J 90 with rice with rice 190 Cr6cy 418 royale, àd la Crécy salpicon, àd la crème crdme salpicon, 800 souffi6 190 soufflè pur6e of, ca called soup, purée lied Cr6cy 875 Crécy perles 876 aux perles with rice rice 876 with 190,412 timbales 190,412 timbales Vichy 190,967 àd la Vichy carving 190-1, 190-1, 191 l9lpp carving 191 casein 191 casein cashew 191 l9l cashew casking 191 casking cassata cassa ta 192 192 cassava 192 cassava casse-museat 192 192 casse-n1useau (dish) 192 192 casserole (dish) casserole (utensil) 192 casserole (utensil) casserole cassia 192 192 cassia Cassis 192 Cassis cassolette J193,472-3 cassolette 93,472-3 ambassadrice 473 473 ambassadrice bouquetidre 473 473 bouquetière d à la

INDEX INDEX lhfforentirte 473 473 àd la.florentirie gauloise 473 d la gauloise 473 àJa with lobster lobster or or.spiny spiny with lobster 473 473 lobster marquise 473 473 marquise Regarce 473 473 Régence Sagan 473 473' Sagan swetbread 473 473, sweetbread venitienne 473 la vénitienne 473 ài la cassonade 193 193 cassonade casso.ulet 193, 193, 193p l93p cas50ulet Castelnaudary de Castelnaudary de 193-4 193-4 194,217 castagnaci 194, 217 casta.gnaci Castiglione, àd la la. 194,412 t94,412 Castiglione, castor set set 294294 castor 194 castrate te 194 castra @t 194 194 cat bones 194p 194p bones catalane; àiLLa catalane, la 194,412 194,412 tr94 catechu 194 catechu catfish'194,l94p ca tfish 194, 194p sae ketchup catsup, see Charolais 99p cattle: Charolais cauf 195 cauf caul t95 195 caut cauldron 207 cauldron cauliflower cauliflower 195, I95, 195p l95p boiled 195 boiled with various.sauces. witb 195 with brown hutter butter 195 with cream cream 195 croûtes crottes Dubarry Du.barry 476 freezing 735 fritters 195,39·5 fritters 195,395 gratin 195, 195p. au gratin l95p loaves 559 loaves à la milanaise 195 ila Mornay 195 Mornay I95 mould 195 mould noisette bretter butter with noisette 195195 omelette Du Barry 352 J52 omelette polonaise 19:5 ià la polonaise 195 purée l96,V4V 196, 147 purrie salad 195 salad 1'96 sautéed in butter butter f96 saut6ed soufflé 196 soufr6 sot! p, puree purée of, of, ealled called soup, Dnbarry 875 Dubarry staIks and stumps 196 196 stalks'and Caveau (r-esta.uran (restaurant) 767 Caveau s) 757 Le (sociery) (society) 196 196 Caveau,.. [,e Caveau; caviare 196,46t 196,463 caviare barquette or or tartlets tartlets barquette 463 blinis 471 471 blinis brioçhes, small small 463 463 brioche.g 168 butter 168 butter pastFy straws. straws.witb. with 465 466 pastry

cav6ur,àla 196,412 cavour, ilLa,196,412 2M cbdraltne 244 cédratine %, 197p, 463 celeriac celeriac 1196,197p,463 julienne 196--7 l9G7 julienne omelette orrrolette viveur viveur 335 335 puree 197 197 purée ragoût ragofft 7S9 7S9 with saJ'ad th cress sa,lbd wi cress 790 790 salpicon 197,800 salpicon 197,800 sstuffed tuffed ài la pa ysanne lb"paysanne 197 t97 celery 197p 197,t97p celery 197, wrth with béchamel b6chamel sauce sauce 19·7 r,97 in butter 197 in butter 197 with with cream cream 197 197 fondue for'rdue 384 384 fritters fritters 395 395 grecque 197, ài la 463 la grecque 197,463 àd l'italienne l"italienne 197 I9:7 âùjcUS 197 aujus 197 wrth with marrow marrow 197 197 Mdmay Mor,nay 197 197 wrtft wlth Parmesan Parmesan t97 t97 puree 197-8, purée 747 197-8,747 royMe rdyafe 418 sauCe satree 818 818 sotip, cream of soltp:cream of 874 purée pul6e of 875 875 vefouté vefout6 878 with various sauces 1
production p production 200--2,201 204-2,201p Champeaux Champeaux 767 767 champigny champigny 202 202 champoreau champoreau 202 202 chanfaina chanfaina 202 202 chanoinesse, à la 412 chanoinesse,dla 412 chantereIle chanterelle 202 202 Chantilly Chantilly 202,393 202,393 chap ctwp 202 202 chapon chapon 202 202 char arr) 202 (charr) char (ch 202 potted potted 731 731 charcuterie charcuteri e 202-4, 2024, 202p, 202p, 203p 203p chard chard 204,204p 204,204p fritters fritters 395 395 Charente Charente 204 204 wines wines 204 204 charlotte charlotte mould mould 204p 204p charlottes charlottes 204-5 204-5 apple apple 205 205 with with rice rice 205 205 àd la la Chantilly Chantillv 205 205 fruit fruit 205 205 àd la parisienne 205 la parisienne 205 plombières plombidres 205 205 raspberry raspberry 761 761 russe russe 205 205 vanilla ice ice cream cream 205 205 Charquican-Chileno Charquican-Chileno 205 205 chartreuse (dish) 205, chartreuse (dish) 205, 393 393 larks àd la française frangaise 206 2AG àd la parisienne, en en surprise surprise 205-6 2A5-6 partridge partridge 667 667 Chartreuse Chartreuse (liqueur) 205,556 Chasselas Chasselas 206 206 chasse royale royale 206 206 chasseur, àdla la 206 206 château ch6-teau 206 206 châ tel aine, àdla la 412 chitelaine. 412 chateau briand 206 chateaubriand 206 Châteauneuf-du-Pape ChAteauneuf-du-Pape 206 chatouillard 206 206 206,207p chaud-froid 2A6,207p chicken 223,223p 223, 223p chicken in aspic aspic 206--7 206-7 451 hazel grouse 451 hazel chops 537, 537p lamb chops 537,537p 667 partridge 667 689, 689p pheasant 589,689p 750 quails 750 Rouen duckling 323 323 Rouen thrush 923 923 thrush woodcock 998 998 woodcock chaudrée de fouras 207 207 chaudr€edefouras chaudron 207 2U7 cheese 207-\6 207-16 cheese 1018 l0l8

attereaux attereaux of ofParmesan Parmesan 470 470 Brie Brie croquettes croquettes 291 291 brioche brioche 154 154 choux choux 473 473 cream cream cheese cheese mixture mixture for for hors hors d'oeuvre d'oeuvreài lala russe russe 593 593 cream: pirozhki 703 cream: pirozhki 703 crêpes crOpes with with Roquefort Roquefort 288 288 croûtes cro0tes 476 476 flan flan 378 378 Juliette Juliette Récamier R6camier 378 378 fondants fondants 477 477 fondue 395p, fondue 384-5, 384-5,395p, 510 510 grated: grated: croûtes crottes with with 293 293 Gruyère: Gruydre:canapés canapbs 472 472 croquettes croquettes 291 291 manufacture manufacture 207-8, 207-8, 207p,208p 207p,208p omelette, omelette, Swiss Swiss 355 355 pannequets pannequets 480-1 480-l Parmesan: Parmesan: soufflé souffi6 864 864 straws straws 665-6 665-6 ramekin ramekin 761 761 Saint-Denis Saint-Denis talmouses talmouses 487 487 soufflé 864p souffi6 863-4, 863-4,864p soufflé souffi6 fritters fritters 479 479 soup soup 882 882 straws straws 902 902 talmouse talmouse 487 487 àd l'ancienne l'ancienne 487 487 àd la pâtisserie pitisserie 487 487 varieties 209-16 209-16 Welsh bit) (rarebit) Welsh rabbit (rare 977 977 cheese-rennet cheese-rennet 216 216 chef chef de de cuisine cuisine 216 216 t' s jar chemis jar 216 chemist's 216 cherries cherries 216 216 àd l'allemande I'allemande 216 216 in brandy 216 in brandy 216 wi th claret with claret 216 216 compote compote 216,260 216,260 Condé Cond6 216 216 coupe 494 coupe 494 croûtes 216 crofftes 216 Danish tart tart or Danish or flan flan 217 217 dried: sauce dried: sauce 811 811 flan 216 flan 216 freezing 737 fteezing 737 fritters 216-17,396 216-17,396 fritters ice 217,492 ice 217.492 jam 217,516 jam 217,516 jelly 517 517 jelly jubilee 217 217 jubilee

INDEX INDEX meringue meringue tart tart (flan) (flan) with with rice rice 217 217 millas millas 590 590 Morello Morello 590-7 596-7 pastejelly paste jelly 519 519 rice rice ring ring with with 136 136 sauce 827 827 sauce savarin savarin dà la la Chantilly '-'U,a,IIlHI 832 832 soufl6 soufflé 866 866 cold 217 217

Montmorency 217 souffie soufflé fritters fritters 396 884-5 soup 884-5 stones: stones: liqueur 555 555 912 syrup 912 917, 917p tart 917,917p l'alsacienne 917. 917, dà I'alsacienne 9l7p 917p German 917 917 tartlets 919 in vinegar vinegar 217,463 wine wine 124 124 Bay 217 Cherry Bay Cherry Lavel Laurel 217 chervil chervil 217 essence 363 fondue fondue 385 garnish 412 as garnish omelette omelette 352 chervil, bulbous bulbous 159 chervis chervis 217 217-18,217p chestnuts 217p chestnuts 217-18, barquettes 218,471 218,471 barquettes la Bavarian cream àd la c6venole 89 89 cévenole 218 boiled 218 boiled braised 218 braised pudding 742 742 Clermont pudding Clermont compote 218 218 compote confection 218 218 confection cr€pes ài la la cévenole c6venole 288 290 croquembouche croquembouche 290 2I8,29L croquettes 291 croquettes 218, fritters fritters 396 396 jam 218 218 577 marrons marrons 577 glac6s 218 218 glacés 218 Mont-Blanc Mont-Blanc 218 866 souffi6 866 Mont-Bry Mont-Bry soufflé pudding Nesselrode pudding Nesselrode 742-3 742-3 la omelette omelette àd la chitelaine 352 352 châtelaine pannequets ài la la pannequets cévenole c6venole 664 664 plombidres ice ice cream cream plombières 493 493 julienne àdlala potage julienne potage c6venole 880 880 cévenole

chipolata 223 iàla la Chivry 223 dà la la Clamart Clamart 223 223

pur6e purée 218,747 218, 747 and and rice rice 218 218 roast roast 218 218 soufre 218,864 soufflé 218,864 soubise soubise 864 864 sweet sweet 218 218 soufre pudding 741-2 741-2 soufflé pudding soup, pur6e of of 875 875 stewed, as as garnish garnish 218 218 sundaes sundaes iàla la c6venole cévenole 908 908 chevalet chevalet 218 218 chevrier chevrier 218 218 Chicha Chicha 219 219 chicken chicken 219 219 dà la la d'Albufbra d'Albuféra 224 Agnes Sorel tartlets tartlets 487 d à I'allemande l'allemande 222 222

ambassadrice ambassadrice 222 d à I'andalouse l'andalouse 222 222

I'anversoise 222 aspic 57p,58, 58p,222 222 àdl'arurore 222 baked in butter baked butter 219 baked baked àd la Matignon Matignon 2t9 219 ballottines 222 ballottines with dark sauce, with with various served with garnishes 73 glazed 74 glazed injelly 74 injelly with light light sauce sauce 73-4 with small 74 smaU d la banquidre 222 àla boiled 222 boiled àd,l'anglaise l'anglaise 222 femme 222 222 àd la bonne femme bouch6es 222 bouchées Richelieu boudins àd la la Richelieu boudins 222 222 222 la bourgeoise bourgeoi* 222 ài la la bourguignonne bourguignonne àd la 222-3 222-3 braised 219, 219,219p braised 219p 223 brochettes 223 brochettes 222 canapbs 222 ,",aljla~,;;;~ 223 capilotade 223 caOlllot,aOe d

cawing 22lp casserole 223 femrne la bonne bonne femme àd la 223 223

cock-a-leekie cock-a-Ieekie 885 885 encocotte en cocotte 223 223 cominee cominée de de gelines gelines 260 260 compote compote 223 223 consomm6: consommé: dà I'ambassadrice l'ambassadrice 870 870 dà I'am6ricaine l'américaine 870 870 Beauharnais Beauharnais 870 870 Bizet Bizet 870 870 Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 870 870 Cdlestine Célestine 871 871 with with chicken chicken 871 871 and and rice rice 871 871 ila chilienne 871 871 à la chilienne clarified c1arified 859 869 ià lala Colbert Colbert 871 871 Colnet Colnet 871 871 la Crecy 871 dàla 871 Dalayrac ."",.,r'''' 871 871 aux aux diablotins diablotins 871 871 871 EdwardVII Edward VII 871 871 d à la la flip flip 871 871 florentine 871 dà la la florentine 871 Florette 871 Florette 871 la gauloise 871 d àla gombos 871 with gombos 871 with 871 Grimaldi 871 Grimaldi 872 I'imperiale 872 ài l'impériale 872 I'infante 872 d l'infante à 872 I'italienne 872 ài l'italienne 872 Leverrier 872 Leverrier 872 la madrilène maddldne 872 ài la 872 Merc6dds 872 Mercédès 872 I'Ortsans 872 àd l'Orléans parisienne 872 872 la parisienne ài la 872 P6pita 872 Pépita with plover or with lapwing eggs 872 Princess AJrice 872 princesse 872

Rachel 873 reine 873 la reine 873 ài la la Reine~Jeanne Reirrc.Jeanne ài la 873 873 873 royale 873 la royale àd la with sago873 sago 873 with 869 simple 869 simple 27a coq en en pittb 274 coq 274,274p au coq au coq 274, 274p 223 c6tdettes 223 côtelettes 224 I'anglaise 224 ài l'anglaise 224 Helder 224 Helder marechale 224 224 maréchale crapaudinp 224 d lr craJ)au
in

with celery 223 i la Chantilly 223 la chartreuse àd la chartreuse parisienne, en P
with with cucumber cucumber 224 224 curry curry 224 224 ià lala Cussy 224 224 demi-deuil oenrll-oeUII 224,227 224, 227 Demidoff Demidoff 224 224 ilaDerby à la Derby 224 224 dà la la Doria Doria 224 224 eminces émincés 224-5 224-5 extract extract 364 364 filets mignons 225 225 filets mignons fillets fillets 225 225 ià lala financrire financière 225 225 flan flan dà la la reine reine 378 378 forcemeat forcemeat 386 386 ring ring with with various various garnishes garnishes 135 135 fricass6e: fricassée: dà la la berrichonne berrichonne 394 394 ià lala minute minute 225 225 fritot fritot 225 225 fritters fritters 395 395 fumet fumet 401 401 galantine 402-3 galantine 402-3 gallimaufry 404 gallimaufry 404 general cooking instructions 219,222 222 giblets, see giblets

d la Godard 225 grilled 225 225 grilled 225 [a diable diable 225 ài la 225 ham 225 ham hash 225 225 hash Hungarian 225 .... ""OLU ....cu 225 225 d nm,perIa1e I'imperiab 225 225 ài I'indienne 225 225 Isabelle 225 Isabelle 225 I'ivoire 225 àd l'ivoire jambalaya 225---6 jambalaya jellied :: in 226 in casserole casserole 226 jellied with '-'ualupal::'U'-' Champagrc with 226 226 226 withfoie with foie gras 226 518 stock for 518 Flly: stock 226 katotr 226 226 kromeskies 226 kromeskies 226 Larr.brtye 226 Lambertye la languedocienne languedocienne .à la 226 226 livsr, sssliver hver,see liver 226-7 lo,af 226-7 loaf 22? d la lyonnaise 227 àla 227 Maerterlinck 227 Maerterlinck 227 marinadie 227 marinade 227 i la Matignon 227 àla 227 mayonnaise 227 mayonnaiSe 227 m6daillons 227 médaillons 227 I'a[6rienne 227 à.i l'algérienne .Beauharnais 227 227 Beauharnais 221 choppd "t'I, . . ..,y,,"rt 227 thebreast cut ftom the breast

22fi

i

227

INDEX INDEX Dunan 227 227 Dunan 227 àdl'lcarlate l'écarlate 227 l'6gyptienne 227 227 àd l'égyptienne Fbdora 227 227 Fédora Grignan 227-8 227-g Grignan la mantouane mantotane 228 228 ài la la turque turque 228 228 àd la la milanaise milanaise 228, 228. àd la 228p 228p with mousseline mousseline with forcemeat 228 228 forcemeat mulligatawny hot hotpot mulligatawny pot 599 599 mulligatawny soup soup mulligatawny 887 887 with mushrooms mushrooms 228 with la Nantua Nantua 228 228 àd la la Néva N6va 228 àd la la niçoise nigoise 228 228 ài la with noodles noodles 228 228 with with oysters oysters 228-9 228-9 with pannequets pannequets àd la reine 664 664 Panwge 229 229 Panurge la parisienne 229 àd la parisienne 229 pav6dl'lcarlate pavé à l'écarlate 675 la p6rigourdine 229 périgourdine 229 àd la pie: la crèole cr|ole 229 229 pie: àri la Russian 278 278 Russian 229 àri la la pi6montaise piémontaise 229 pilaf 229 229 pilaf poached 222 222 poached la polonaise 229 àd la polonaise 229 portugaise 229 àd la la portugaise potage Camaro dà la potage Camaro la br6silienne brésilienne 884 princess princess 229 229 pudding pudding dà la la Richelieu 740 740 pur6e purée 229,746 229,746 royale royale of of 418 418 quenelles quenelles 754 754 Rassol'nik RassoJ'nik 887-8 887-8 d à la la r6gence régence 229 àdlareine la reine 229 dà la la Renaissance Renaissance 229-30 229-30 with la Bourbon Bourbon with rice rice dà la 230 230 and and rice rice with with suprOme suprême sauce 230 230 ring ring 238 238 roast roast 230,230p 230, 230p dà I'anglaise l'anglaise 230 230 with with rock rock (coarse) (coarse) salt 230 230 Rosidre Rosière 230-l 230-1 ià lala Rossini Rossini 231 231 salad salad 231 231 salpicon salpicon 800 800 dà la la reine reine 801 801

saut6ed 231 231 sautéed Alexandra 231 231 Alexandra I'alg6rienne 231 231 àd l'algérienne ambassadrice 231 231 ambassadrice I'ancienne mode mode ài l'ancienne 23r 231 Annette 231 231 Annette Archduke 231 231 Archduke Archduke Salvator Salvator Archduke 23t-2 231-2 with artichokes 232 232 with with basil basil 232 232 with biarrotte 232 232 ài la biarrotte boh6mienne 232 232 àd la bohémienne Boivin 232 Boivin bordelaise 232, 232. àd la bordelaise 232p 232p àd la bourguignonne 232 butter in bu !ter 232 with cèpes cdpes 232 with chasseur 233, 233,233p chasseur 233p with chayotes 233 with with cream cream 233 with Demidoff 233 Demidoff Duroc 233 Duroc l'6cossaise 233 233 àd l'écossaise fermidre 233 fermière aux fines herbes 233 florentine 233 233 àd la florentine forestidre 233 233 ài la forestière with shoots 233 with hop shoots incream in cream 233 2334 àd I'indienne l'indienne 233-4 àd I'italienne l'italienne 234 d 234 japonaise 234 à la la japonaise d 234 à la livonienne livonienne 234 d à la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 234 d 234 à la la Marengo Marengo 234 en matelote 232 dà la meunidre 234 meunière 234 d à la minute minute 232 Mireille Mireille 234 Monselet 234 with morels and with morels other other mushrooms 234 with with mushrooms 234,234p 234,234p nigoise niçoise 234 with 234-5 with oysters 234--5 panetidre panetière 235 235 with with paprika paprika 235 dà la la parisienne parisienne 235 Parmentier Parmentier 235 dà la paysanne 233 la paysanne dà la la P6rigord Périgord 235 petit-duc petit-duc 235 235 dà la la pi6montaise piémontaise 235 235 dà la la portugaise portugaise 235 235 dà la la provengale provençale 235 235 1020 1020

Rivoli 235 235 Rivoli la romaine romaine 235 235 àd la 235 Stanley 235 Stanley with tarragon tarragon 235 235 with with white white wine wine 235 235 with 235 àdlazingara la zingara 235 236,864 soufl6 236, soufflé 864 I'aurore 486 486 ài l'aurore mirepoix 864 864 àd la mirepoix with truffles truffies 864 864 with cream of of 236, 236, soup: cream 874 874 English 885 English pur6e of, of, àd la reine purée 875-6 875-6 velout6 878-9 velouté Souvarov 236 Souvarov spring 236 spring en compote 236 fried 236 fried grilled àd la diable 236 236 marinade 236 236 in marinade peas 236 with peas pi6montaise 236 àd la pièmontaise polonaise 236 àd la polonaise roasted roasted 236 sicilienne 236 236 àd la sicilienne 236 àdlatartare la tartare 236 viennoise 236 àd la viennoise Stanley 236 stuffed 782 d 236 à I'ari6geoise l'ariègeoise 236 d Sorges à la mode de Sorges 236-7 supr€mes suprêmes 237 ambassadrice ambassadrice 237 Cam|,rani Caméra ni 237 Caftme 237 Carême d à la florentine florentine 237 Gabrielle Gabrielle 237 dà I'imp,6riale l'impériale 237 marquise 237 237 Montpensier Montpensier 237 237 dà la P6riguex Périguex 237 Pojarski 237 237 princesse princesse 237 237 Richelieu 237 237 Rossini 237 237 with various vegetables 237 237 Yerdi Verdi 237 237 with with tarragon 237, 237, 237p injelly in jelly 226,226p 226, 226p tartellettes tartellettes 222 222 timbales timbales dà la la Montrouge Montrouge 488 488 dà la la Toscane Toscane 238 238 Toulouse Toulouse 238 238 with wi th trufles truffies 235.238 235, 238

p6rigourdine la périgourdine ài la 238 238 trussing 220p 220p trussing turban 238 238 turban la reine reine 946 946 turnovers àri la with various various wines wines 235 235 with viennoise 235,238 235, 238 àd la viennoise Waterzootje 976p, Waterzootje 977 976p,977 white poultry stock stock 900 900 238,406 chick-peas 238,406 chick-peas Catalan style style 238 238 Catalan pur6e 748 748 purée chicory 238, 238,239p,360p chicory 239p, 360p b6chamel 238 ài la béchamel butter 238 with brown butter butter 238 238 with butter 238 chiffonnade 238 cream 238 with cream flamande 238 àd la flamande fondue 385 fondue fritots 238 fritots fritters 395 fritters au gratin 238 gravy 238-9 238-9 in gravy grecque 239 àd la grecque àd la meunidre meunière 239 àd la milanaise 239 Mornay 239 àd la Mornay with noisette butter 238 238 omelette dà la flamande omelette flamande 352 352 ài la polonaise 239 pur1e 239 purèe salad ad 239 sai souffi6 soufflé 239,864 with Parmesan 864 soup: cream of 874 pur6e purée of 876 chicory, chicory, wild (coffee substitute) 239 chiffonnade chiffonnade 239,412 chicory 238 238 with cream cream 238 lettuce: lettuce: in butter 239, 239, 553 for for cold dishes 553 with cream 239-40. 239-40, 5534 553-4 mixed 240 240 sorrel 240,863 240, 863 with with cream 863 Chinese Chinese artichoke 240, 240, 240p omelette, omelette, Japanese 353 353 soup, soup, cream cream of 874 tartlets tart/ets dà la la japonaise japo"haise 487 487 Chinese cookery 50+5 504--5 Chinese cookery chinois chinois (fruit) (frui t) 240 240

INDEX

INDEX

chinois(utensil) (utensil) 240, 240, chinois 240p 240p chinonaise, à la 412 412 chinonaise,dla chipolata 240,412 240, 412 chipolata chitterlings 26 26 chitterlings chives 240,240p 240, 240p chives butter 168 168 butter chloride 240 240 chloride chocolate 240-l 240-1 chocolate bâtonnets 88 88 bAtonnets Bavariancream, cream, Bavarian striped 9l 91 striped caramels 183 183 oaramels cream 286 286 cream 492 ice cream 492 iceqeam icing 498 498 icing mousse 598 598 mousse pavé 676 pavb pudding 742 742 pudding sauce 827 827 sauce soufflé 866 soufl6 soufflé biscuits biscui ts 125 125 soufr6 chocolate (beverage) 241 chocolate choesels 241 ià lala bruxelloise 241

cholesterol 241-2 cutlets see cutlets chopettes, see choppers 592p 591-2,592P choppers 591-2, chopping chopping 242 chops chops 242 chopsticks chopsticks 242 Chorizos 830 830 Choron 242 Choron 242 chou 316, 594 paste 242, 242,316,594 chou paste balls: 412 garnish 412 as gamish balls: as choux 242p 242,242p choux 242, àd la 242 c6venole 242 la cévenole àd la 242 Chantilly 242 la Chantilly with 473 cheese473 with cheese chocolate 242 chocolate 242 coffee 242 cofree 242 àdlacrdme la crème 242 242 àdla 242 frangipane 242 lafrangipane glazed glazed 242 242 as 473 d'oeuvre 473 hors d'oeuvre ashors ài lala maraîchère 473 maraichdre 473 Montmorency 242 Montmorency 242 àdlalaNantua 473 Nantua473 àila la normande 242 normande 242 ài lalaroyale 473 royale473 ài lalaSaint-Hubert 473 Saint-Hubert473 àdlalastrasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise 473 473 à ilalatoulousaine 473 toulousaine473 au vert-pré 473 473 auvert-pr6 chowder, clam, chowder,clam, Manhattan 885 Manhattan885 Christmas 242-3 Christmas242-3 cookery 372-3 cookery372-3 Christmas pudding743 743 Christmaspudding Christmas yu le log 178 178 Christmasyulelog

chub chub 243,243p 243, 243p chutney chutney 243 243 cicada cicada 243 243 cider cider 243 243 cider drink 122 cidertype typedrink 122 Cierniki Cierniki 473 473 cigars cigarsand andcigarettes cigarettes 243 243 cinnamon cinnamon 243,244,244P 243, 244, 244p sugar sugar 908 908 citicacid citric acid 2M 244 syrup syrup 912 912 citron citron 2M,244P 244,244p liqueur liqueur 556 556 Citronella Citronella 244 244 Citrus Citrus aurantium aurantium 244 244 citrus citrus fruits fruits 244,399P 244, 399p civet 244 244 clafouti clafouti 244 244 Clairet 123,244-s 123, 244-5 clam 245 chowder, Manhattan Manhattan 885 soup soup with with vegetables vegetables 885 393,412 Clamart, àdla la 393, 412 (clarifYing) clarification clarification (clarifying) 245,296 245,656 Clary 245,656 Clary 245 Clavaria Clava ria 245 245 clementine 245 clementine 412 Clermont, àdla Clermont, la 412 245 cloche 245 cloche 245 Jean-JosePh 245 Close, Jean-Joseph Close, 245 Vougeot 245 Clos Vougeot Clos 245-6 clove clove 245-6 908 sugar 908 sugar 246 clovisse 246 clovisse 246 Clupeidae 246 Clupeidae 246 cnicaut 246 cnicaut 246 coagulate coaglulate 246 246 coalfish coalfish 246 246 coaster coaster246 246,246p coca 246p coca 246, 246 cochineal cochineal 246 246 Cochlearia Cochleaia 246 320 cochon au père 320 cochonaupere 246 cocido cocrdo246 885 cock-a-Ieekie cock-a-leekie885 246 cockle cockle246 246,473 combs246,473 cocks: cocks:combs 246 attelets attelets246 470 l'ancienne470 àdl'ancienne 246 attereaux246 enenattereaux 246 Villeroi246 à dlalaVilleroi 246 barquettes barquettes246 478 fritots fritots478 rago0t and kidneys:ragoût andkidneys: 759 759 800 salpicon salpicon800 246 salpicon blanc 246 salpiconà dblanc 246 brun246 salpicon salpiconà dbrun

la salpicon salpicondà la

800 chalonnaise chalonnaise 800 stuffed stuffed 246 246

tartlets tartlets 246 246

Villeroi Villeroi 473 473

kidneys, seekidneYs kidneys kidneys,see

cocktails cocktails 246-9 246-9 cocktail cocktail set set 247P 247p

cocoa cocoa 248-9,249P 248-9, 249p butter butter 167-8 167-8 coconut coconut 249,249p 249, 249p butter butter 168 168 milk milk 249 249 coco-plum coco-plum 249 249 cocose coco se 249 249 cod cod 250,250p 250, 250p dà I'anglaise l'anglaise 250 250 . boiled, boiled, with with various various sauces sauces 250 250 bouillabaisse bouillabaisse 139 139 250 d à la la boulangdre boulangère 250 in white braised braised in white wine wine 250 250 250 melted 250 butter, melted with butter, with various with various cold, with cold, 250 sauces 250 sauces 250 cookedincream cooked in cream 250 250 creamgratin cream gratin 250 250 crdme 250 la crème àd la 474 croquettes 474 croquettes 250 dieppoise 250 la dieppoise ài la 250 Dugl6r6 250 Dugléré 25lP filleting 251 filleting p 250 fillets 250 flUets 251 flamande 251 la flamande àd la 251,25lP fried 25l,251p fried 251 breadcrumbs 251 in breadcrumbs in 251 Orly 251 Orly gratin 251 251 augratin au grilled 251 251 grilled 251 hollandaise 251 àdlalahollandaise 251 àdl'indienne l'indienne 251 scandinave liliver ver àdlalascandinave 509p 509p 251 la meunière 251 àdlameunidre 251 Mornay251 Mornay 251 shells251 scallopshells ininscallop 251 roast251 roast florentine shellsà dlalaflorentine ininshells 25r 251 gratin augratin shellsau ininshells 25r-2 251-2 Nantua shellsà dlalaNantua ininshells 252 252 252 wine252 whitewine ininwhite 252 salt252 cod,salt cod, 252 I'anglaise252 à dl'anglaise 252 bamboche252 à ilalabamboche 252 b6chamel252 à ilalabéchamel 252 b6n6dictine252 à dlalabénédictine 252 Benoiton252 à ilalaBenoiton

l02l 1021

boiled. with various boiled, with various sauces 252 sauces 252 bouillabaisse 252 bouillabaisse 252 d la m6nagdre 252 à la ménagère 252 brandade 252,253P brandade 252, 252 253p dla Nantua 252 à la Nantua 252 with truffies with truffles 252 in brown butter 252, in brown butter 252, 254 254 d la crdme 254 à la crème 254 au gratin 254 au gratin 254 d la cr6ole 254 à la créole 254 croquettes 254 croquettes 254 254,468 curried curried 254, 468 en escabdche 254 en escabèche 254 OtlY 254 fillets fillets Orly 254 balls i I'am6ricaine fish fish balls à l'américaine 254 254 254 fied 254 fried 254 fritot fritot 254 la hongroise 254 ià la hongroise 254 la languedocienne àd la languedocienne 254 254 la lyonnaise 254 àd la lyonnaise 254 254 d'h6tel 254 maitre d'hôtel ià lala maître 254 mayonnaise 254 mayonnaise la meunidre 254 ài la meunière 254 254 Mireille 254 Mireille noisette butter with with noisette butter 254 254 d I'occitane 254 à l' occi tane 254 parisienne 254 la parisienne àd la 254 254-5 Parmentier Parmentier 254-5 provengale 255 i.la provençale à.la 255 255 rayte en en rayte 255 with tomatoes tomatoes rougail, with rougail, 781 781 255 salad 255 salad au gratin spinach with with spinach au gratin 255 255 d la tomatoes with wi th toma toes à la 255 marseillaise255 marseillaise tongues:àdlala tongues: 468 madrildne 468 madrilène 468 marinated marinated 468 255 vol-au-vent255 vol-au-vent 255 cod-burbot255 cod-burbot 255-7 coffee255-7 coffee q6ole 257 Bourboncréole Bourbon 257 257 brewing brewing 257 183 caramels183 caramels 202 champoreau202 champoreau 257 milk257 creamorormilk withcream with 258 decaffeinated decaffeinated 258 363 essence363 essence 492,492P icecream cream 492,492p ice 257 iced257 iced 498 icing498 icing 979 Irish979 Irish Bavarian mocha:Bavarian mocha: cream9191 cream

INDEX INDEX pastilles670 670 pastilles pavb676 676 pavé souffi6866, 866,867p soufflé 867p substitutes258 258 substitutes syrup913 913 syrup uses258 258 uses grinder 255p, coffeegrinder coffee 256p,257p 256p,257p pots255p, coffeepots 255p,257p coffee 257p Cognac258 258 map of areas producing 258p cola 258,258p cola cream258 258 cream

elixir359 359 elixir Colbert, 258 Colbert, àdlala 258 colddishes: dishes :presentatÎon presentation cold 2s8-9 258-9 room 259 cold room 259 coId

colifichet 259 259 colifichet colin 259 259 colin collop 259, 259,362 collop 362 Colocasia 259 259 Colocasia Colocynth 259 259 Colocynth colonne, moule moule àd 259, 259. ,...,...,,,"'.,'" 259p 259p colourings 259 259 columbines 259,473 columbines 259,473 colza 259 259 colza comfits 260 260 comfits comfrey 260 comfrey 260 cominee de cominée de gelines 260 260 compote 260-1 260_l compote cond6 261 251 condé mixture mixture 594 594 Cond6, 393 Condé, àdla la 393 condiments condiments 261-2 261-2 condiment condiment set set 261p,262 261 p, 262 confectioners confectioners 262p confectionery 262 confit confit 262 262 Confr6ries Confréries Vineuses Vineuses 262-s 262-5 conger conger eel eel 265,265p 265, consomm6s: consommés: dàI'alsacienne l'alsacienne 870 870 dàl'ambassadrice l'ambassadrice 870 870 dàI'am6ricaine l'américaine 870 870 riàI'amiral l'amiral 870 870 riàla la basquaise 870 870 Beauharnais Beauharnais 870 870 with withbirds'nests bÎrds' nests 870 870 Bizet Bizet 870 870 dàla la bourgeoise 870 870 Branca3 Brancas870 with withbread bread 870 870 Brillat-Savarin BrillataSavarin 870 870 brunoise brunoise870-l 870-1 d àlalacancalaise cancalaise871 871 celery-flavoured 873 873 C6lestine Célestine871 871

chasspur87! 871 chasseur auxcheveux cheveuxd'ange d'ange aux 87r 871 chicken,darified clarified869 869 chicken, chicken giblets wiwith th chicken 87r 871 withchicken chickenpinions pinions with 871 871 andrice rice871 871 and chicken, simple869 869 chic ken, simple chilienne871 871 àdlalachilienne clarified869 869 c1arif1ed Colbert871 871 àrilalaColbert cold873 873 cold Colnet871 871 Colnet Commodore 871 871 Commodore ri la Cr6cy 871 871 àla croffteaupot 871 croûte au pot 87 J I'ancienne 871 871 àdl'ancienne Dalayrac 871 871 Dalayrac aux diablotins diablotins 871 871 aux I'ecossaise 871 871 àd l'écossaise Edward VU VII 871 871 Edward fish: c1arified clarified 869 869 fish: simple 869 869 simple flavoured with with game game flavoured fumet 873 873 fumet flip 871 871 àd la flip Florence 871 871 Florence la florentine florentine 871 ài la Florette 871 Florette game, simple 869 game, with with garden cress cress 871 with with garnishes 870-3 870-3 d à la gauloise gauloise 871 with with gombos d

with with pearl barley85, 85, 872 Pdpita872 872 withpinions pinions701 701 wilh ploverororlapwing withplover lapwing eggs eggs872 872 with poached eggs872 withpoached 872 Princess PrincessAlice Alice 872 princesse 872 princesse 872 nr".,t""."". ... 873 printanier 873 aux perles,or orau auriz riz 873 wÎ th profiteroles profiteroles 873 with 873 with with quenelles 873 873 Rachel Rachel 873 873 with with ravioli ravioli 873 873 àdlala reine reine 873 873 àd lala Reine-Jeanne Reine-Jeanne 873 873 with with rice rice 873 873 riche riche 869 869 àd la la royale royale 873 873 with with sago sago 873 873 ài la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert 873 873 with salep 873 873 simple white 868-9 868-9 àd la la strasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise 873 873 with stuffed chicken chicken g7l giblets 871 with tapioca 873 873. tarragon-flavoured 873 tarragon-flavoured 873 tomato-fiavoured 873 tomato-flavoured 873 truffle-flavoured 873 truffie-flavoured 873 with various wines wines 873 873 873 with vermicelli 873 Conti, àdla la 393,412 393.412 I'orientale 871 con tiser 265 265 contiser Grimaldi conversation (pdtisserie) (pâtisserie) conversation GrÎmaldi 871 871 dà la 265-6 la hollandaise hollandaise 871 871 houblonniere cook 266 266 cook houblonnière 871 871 Hudson cooker, fuelless fuellcss 451 451 cooker, Hudson 871 871 dà I'imp,6riale 872 see biscuits biscuits cookies, see cookies, 872 dà I'infante 872 cooking 266-73 266--73 cooking 872 dà I'irlandaise coot 273,273p 273, l'irlandaise 872 872 coot dà I'italienne copeaux 273 273 copeaux l'italienne 872 872 julienne copper 273 273 copper julienne 872 872 L6opold coq:en en p6t| pâté 274 274 coq: Léopold 872 872 Leverrier auvin vin 274,274p 274, 274p Leverrier 872 872 au with coque duLot du Lot 274 274 coque withmacarcni macaroni 872 872 dàlalamadrildne coq ueret,see seestrawberrycoqueret, madrilène 872 872 Merc6dds tomate Mercédès 872 872 tomato dàlalamessine coques coquesriàpetits petitsfours fours messine 872 872 dàlalaneige 274-5 neigede deFlorence Florence 274-s 872 872 275 coquetier 275 Nesselrode coquille275,275p 275, Nesselrode 872 872 coquille Nimrod coriander275 275 Nimrod 872 872 coiander with corkscrew275 275 corkscrew withnoodles noodles872 872 d àI'Orl6ans Corneliancherry cherry276 276 l'Orléans872 872 Cornelian oxtail cornet276 276 cornet oxtail 872 872 d àla la parisienne 872 cornftour276 276 cornflour with pasta products 872 corn oil276 276 872 cornoil 1022 1022

corn-on-the-cob, corn-on-the-cob,see see sweetcorn sweetcorn corn salad 276, 841 cornsalad 276,841 cornstarch cornstarch276 276 corozo corozo276 276 Corsica Corsica276-7 276-7 culinary ..,-,~ • .,."",., culinaryut-'specialities 276-7 276-7 .. r.nr.,..,."r map 276 gastronomicmap 276 Coteaux. Coteaux, Ordre Ordredes des277 277 cotignac cotignac277 277 cotriade cotriade 277 277 cotton-seed cotton-seed oil oil647 647 couch grass 277 couchgrass 277 coucouzelle coucouzelle277 277 coulîbiac coulibiac 277-8 277-8 chicken chicken 278 278 eel eel331 331 coulis coulis 278 278 crayfish crayfish 283 283 coup coup d'avant d'avant 278 278 coup coup de de milieu milieu 934 934 coupes (sundaes) 494, 494, 494p,908 apricot 494 àd la la cévenole c6venole 908 908 cheny 494 494 Crapotte 494 494 Jacques Jacques 494 494 peach pach 494 494 r!\<1'nhp,rrv 909p raspberry 909p courgettes, marrows courgettes, see see malTows court-bouillons 278 court-bouillons 278 au bleu bleu 278 278 au Champagne, dà la la Champagne, mirepoix 279 279 mirepoix la grecque grecque 278 dà la 278 red wine, wine, dà la la red 279 mirepoix 279 for salmon salmon 793 793 for salt water water 278 278 salt au vert 279 279 auvert white 279 279 white white wine wine 279 279 white à la 278 d la hongroise 278 279 dàla la mirepoix 279 couscous (couscoussou) (couscoussou) couscous 279-80 279-80 Armenian 280 280 Armenian bowlfor for 279p 279p bowl 181 came! l8l camel Moroccan 280 280 Moroccan mutton, 'Chtitra' 280 mutton,'Chtitra' 280 cousinette 280 280 cousinette cover280-l 280-1 cover cow 281 281 cow cow-parsnip281 281 cow-parsnip crab281 281 crab butter 168 168 butter 281 cold281 cold dressed281,281p 28 J , 281 P dressed

INDEX

-INDEX

au augratin gratin 281 281

preparing preparing 281p,282p 28 andshellfish shellfishininbroth and 281 281 soup, sou p,pur6e puréeof of876 876 crab, crab,hermit hermit 453,453p 453, 453p crab,velvet-swimming velvet-swimming crab, 967 967 cracknel cracknel 281 281 cramique 283 283 cramique cranberry 283 283 cranberry jelly jelly 283 283 sauce 8ll 81] sauce crane crane 283 283 crapaudine, à la 283 283 crapaudine,dla craquelins '"'la'yu,",,, .. ,, 283,473 283,473 59p, 283, 283, 283P, 283p, crayfish 1159p, 463

aspic 58 58 aspic bisque bisque 283,876 rià la la bordelaise bordelaise 283, 283, 283p 283p bush bush 283-4 butter 168 168 canap,6s canapés 461 461 473 choux dà la Nantua 473 coulis 283 coulis crofites 284 croûtes 293 àd la Nantua 293 for 284p dish for 284 with flan: wi th cheese 284 378 Nantua 378 àd la Nantua 388 forcemeat 388 forcemeat garnish 284 284 as garnish as 4734 d'oeuvre 473-4 as hors d'oeuvre as 284 li6geoise 284 la liégeoise àd la 284 la marinière marinidre 284 àd la 284 mousse 284 mousse 284 I'ancienne 284 ài l'ancienne 284 mousselines mousselines 284 284 Nantua 284 d'la Nantua Ha 284 àdlanage la nage 284 la Nantua Nantua omelette àd la omelette 354 354 la pannequets àd la pannequets 664 Nantua 664 Nantua patties 483 483 patties puffs 284 284 puffs 760 Nantua 760 rago0t Nantua ragoût 284 rolls284 roUs Bous deBous Damesde desDames des 284 284 fried284-5 284-5 fried 800 salpicon 800 ""'IIJI,",'-'" d la dieppoise 801 d la Joinville 801 819 sauce819 sauce 485 of485 shellsof scallopshells scallop souffi6:àdlaNantua la Nantua soufflé: 486 486 864 normande864 à dlalanormande

with withParmesan Parmesan 486 486 soup: soup:crealn creamofofE74 874 puree puréeof of876. 876 , veloutO velou té 879 1579 tails: tails:aspicof aspic of56 "56 av au grztin gratin 285 285 rago0t ragoûtdàlalaNantua Nantua 285 285 ininshells shelts 285 285 timbale: timbale:dàI'ancienne l'ancienne 285 285 iàla la mode mooe de de Chavillien Cll.avij1ien 285 285 vol-au-vent vol·au·vent 285 285 cream cream horns horns dà la la Chiboust Chiboust 285-6 285-6 cream cream puffr, see see choux choux crearu creams 285,286 286 almond almond 17,286 17,286 butter bu tter 2W" 28.6, 594 594 Chantilly "'-'ualll,Hry 286 286 with with fruit 286 286 chocolate chocolate 286 286 cola 258 cola 258 custard 286 custard 285 filling filling for fO! waffies waffies 286 286 flavoured flavûuœ.d with with tea tea 286 286 gelatine 286 286 with wi thgelatine 551 lemon :5,51 lemol1 286 with liqueurs liqueurs 286 with 286 au miroir rniroir 286 au mopha 287 287 mocha praline 287 287 pralîne 392 frangipane 392 frangipane 286 pastry 286 frangipane pastry frangipane 396 fritters 396 fritters 594 mocha 594 mocha 287 custard 287 mocha custard mocha Montmorency, la Montmorency, àd la 596 of 596 border of border 652 orange 652 orange pastry 594 594 pastry French 287,671 French 671 plombidres 287 287 plombières 762 raspberry 762 r~"nhp'rr\l 287,594 St Honor6 287, 594 787 dressing787 salad\,ll,",,,,,UIJ;; 888 soup 888 sour, soup sour, 978 whipped978 whipped 287 Cr6cy,à dla Crécy, la 287 287 crdme,à dla crème, la 287 287 renvers6e287 crdmerenversée crème 287 cr6mets:;d'd'Angers crémets: Angers 287 287 Saumur de de Saumur 287 287 dla287 cr6ole,àla also Seealso 287-8.See cr€pes287-8. pannequets pannequets 288 Alsation288 Alsation apple414l apple (sweet)319 319 for(sweet) batterfor batter

buckwheaf, buckwheat,called called galetons galetons 288 288 dàlalacCvenole cévenole 288 288 Chartreuse Chartreuse 288 288 foie foiegras grasi àlala

P6rigourdine Périgourdine 382 382

as asgarnish gamish 288,412-13 288,412-13 pineapple 701

pineapple 701 potato potato 728 728 raspberry raspberry 288 288 with with Roquefort Roquefort 288 288 savoury savoury butter butter 288 288 spinach 891 89] stuffed stuffed with with aPples apples 41 41 Suzette Suzette 288 288 cr6pinettes crépinettes 288 288 cress cress 288-9 288-9 croquettes croquettes 474 474 soup, of 876 876 soup, pur6e purée of crever crever 289 289 cricket cricket 289 289 crockpot crock pot 289 289 crocodile crocodile 289 289 croissants croissan ts 289 289 almond almond 289 289 jam 289,289P 289p see cromesquis, see

kromeskies 289 crop 289 crop 289-90 croquant 289-90 croquant 290 au sel, àdla croque la 290 croque au sel, 290 croquembouche 290 croquembouche 290 chestnut 290 chestnut 290,290P oranges 290, oranges 290p 290 croque-monsieur 290 croque-monsieur 290,474 croquets 290,474 croquets 290 almond 290 bar almond bar 290 Bordelais 290 Bordelais 290,474 croquettes 290,474 croquettes 291 apricot 291 apricot 474 beef 474 beef 474 left-overs 474 left-overs 474 bone-marrow bone-marrow 474 474 brain 474 brain 291 cheese 291 Briecheese Brie 291 chestnut 291 chestnut 474 cod 474 cod 474 cress474 cress 344 egg egg 344 474 frsh474 fish gras 381 foie foie gras 381 474 d la P6riguetx474 àla 474 dlareine à la reine 474 474 game474 game cheese 291 Gruydre Gruyère cheese 291 lobster lobs ter 474,563 563 567 macaroni567 macaroni 474 valentinoise474 vahmtinoise 474 meat474 meat 593 for593 mixturesfor mixtures 474 Montrouge474 Montrouge

r023 1023

mtrssel 291,474 mussel 291,474 noodle 475 noodle 475 oyster: d la normande

oyster: à la normande 475 475 Victoria 475 Victoria 475 pheasant 687 pheasant 687 potato 291,291P,475 potato 291, 291p, 475 725,725p 725, Chevreuse 725 Chevreuse 725 dla florentine 475 à la florentine 475 ir la lyonnarse 725 àla 725 d la nigoise 475 à la 47547.5, iàlala permesane permesane 475, 725 725 d la p6rigourdine 72s

poultry

475

poultry 475 printanidre 475 printanière 475 rice 475 rice 475 dl'am6ricaine 475 à l'américaine 475 rice: curried 475 rice: curried 475 old style 291 old style 291 d la pi6montaise 475 à la piémontaise 475 savoury 291 savoury 291 stuffed 291 stuffed 291 sweet 291 sweet 291 sheep's trotters 635 sheep's trotters475,893 635 spiny lobster lobster 475,893 sweet potato 911 911 sweet potato 291-2 La Varenne La Varenne 291-2 veal 475p veal 475p vegetable 475 vegetable 475 475 d la viennoise à la viennoise 475 croquignolles Parisiennes croquignolles Parisiennes 292 292 croustades 292,475 croustades 292,475 d I'alsacienne 475 à l'alsacienne 475 d I'anversoise 475 à l'anversoise 475 bread 292,292p bread 292, 292p i la bretonne 475 à la bretonne 475 dlaforestidre 475 à la forestière 475 d la grecque 476 à la grecque 476 little 292 little 292 little duchess potato little duchess potato 292,292p 292, 292p' . little noodle 292 li ttle noodle 292 292 littlerice li ttle rice 292 little semolina 292 little semolina 292 little vermicelli 292 little vermicelli 476 i la marinidre 292 à la marinière 476476 i la Montrottge à la Montrouge 476 d la napolitaine 476 à la napolitaine 476 i la nivernaise 476 à la nivernaise 476 potato 725 potato 725 d la talousaine 476 à la talousaine 476 veft-prb 476 vert-pré 476 Yichy 476 Vichy 476 crofites 292 croûtes 292 dl'ambassadice 476 à l'ambassadrice 476 anchovy 476 ~n,~hr"1\1 476 apple 4l

INDEX INDEX

apricot 44 apricot 44 d la banana; banana; à la 75 Banvilliers 75 75 Banvilliers d la maltaise à la bone-marrow maltaise 75 476 with with bone-marrow Brillat-savarin 476476 Brillat-Savarin cardinal 476 476 cardinal 476 cheese 476 cheese 476222 chicken chicken 222 d I'ambassadrice 476 d àlal'ambassadrice Clama.rt 476 476 àcrayfish la Clamart 284 476 crayfish 284au pot 292 for crotte for au 293-4 pot 292 forcroûte desserts for desserts devilled 476293-4 devilled 476 dorees 293 'Dubarry don~es 293476 Dubarry fruit 293 476 fruit 293 476 garnished garnished 476 d and browned and browned413 à I'ancienne l'ancienne golden 293 413 golden 293 cheese 293 with grated with grated cheese 293 gratin6es with trufres gratinées with truffles 293 293hors d'oeuvre or for d'oeuvre for horsentr6es small 293or entrées 293 i small la livonienne 476 àd la lyonnaise livonienne 476 476 la lyonnaise àwith Madeira 476 293 Madeira 293 with Montmorency 293-4 Montmorency 293- 4 mushroom 293,476, mushroom 293,476, 602-3 d 602-3 la Nantua 293 la normande Nantua 293293 dà la la paysanne normande 476 293 dà la à la paysanne 476 peach 678 peach682 678 pear pear 682 preparation 293p 293p ipreparation la provengale 476 la reine provençale 476 dàla 293.476 la roennaise reine 293,476 dà la 476 à la roennaise 293 476 Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert with skate liver293 476 withsoft skate liver with roes 476476 roes 476 with soft292-3 forsoup for soupau292-3 spinach gratin 891 au gratin 891 spinach292 stuffed stuffed 292 293 with truffies wi th truffles476 293 dlazingara à la zingara 476 cro0tons 294,294p croûtons 294,294p as garnish 413 as garnish omelette 352413 omelette 352 crow 294 crow 294 crown-pigeon 294 crown-pigeon cruchade 294 294 cruchade crudit6s 294294 crudités cruet stand294 294 cruet stand 294 294 crustaceans crustaceans 294 cucumber 294,463 cucumber 294, 463 in butter 295 in butter 295

i la crdme 295

à dlalacrème 295 dijonnaise 295 à dlaladijonnaise 295 grecque 463 à au la grecque 463 gratin 295 aud gratin 295 la grecque 295 à aujus la grecque 295 295 auMornay jus 295 295 Mornay 295 pur6e 295,747 purée salad295,747 295.463 salad 295,463 salpicon 800 salpicon 800 stuffed 295 stuffed with 295 vegetable salad with vegetable salad 463,463p 463,463p cucumber, ridge 776 cucumber, ridge 776 Cuisine minceur 295 Cuisine 295 cuissonminceur 295 cuisson culinary295 art 295 culinaryart 295 culinary methods 295-9 culinary methods 295-9 culinary names 393 culinary names 393 cumin 299 cumin 299 bitonnets 88 bâtonnets cumin, black88127 cumin, cup 299black 127 cup 299 Cup-bearer 299 Cup-bearer 299 Curagao liqueur 299, 556 Curaçao 299,556 souffi6 liqueur 866 soufflé 866 Curcuma 299 Curcuma curd 299 299 curd curing299 733 curing curlew 733 299 curlew 299 (Maurice Curnonsky Curnonsky (Maurice Edmond Saillard) Edmond Saillard) 299-300,299p 299-300,300 299p currants currants 300300 compote compote 300 fritters 396 fritters jelly 517396 jelly for 517 juice ices 300 juice for (dried) ices 300 currants 434 currants (dried) 434 curry 300 curry 300 Bichique 300 Bichique 300 Bringelle 300-l Bringelle 300-1 Cussy, dla 393 Cussy, à la 393 custard 301 custard caramel301301,301p caramel 301,301 P confectioner's 287 confectioner's English: mixture287 594 English: mixture 594 fried 301 fried 301 mould mixture 594 mould mixture 594 ring, with mirabelles d ring, with mirabelles à la vosgienne 135-6 135--6 la vosgienne vanilla 301 vanilla 301 34,34p, custard apple custard applc 34, 34p, 301,30Ip 301,301p custard cream, see cteam, custard cream, see cream, custard eus tard custard marrow 301, 30lp custard marrow 301, 30lp in b6chamel sauce 301 in béchamel sauce 301 braised au jus 301 braised au jus 301 with butter 301-2 with butter 301-2 d la crdme 302 à la crème 302

cr6ole302 302 à ilalacréole fritters302 302 friuers garnish 302 asasgarnish 302 gratin 302 auaugratin 302 d la grecque 302 à la grecque 302 irartiniquuir"302 IOZ à alatamartiniquaise Mornay 302 Mornay 302 salad302 302 salad stuffed 302 stuffed 302 Cussy,à dlala413 413 Cussy, customs, gastronomic customs, gastronomie 421-2 421-2 cutlets476-7 476-7 cutlets

daube304-5 304-5 daube daubidre305, 305,305p daubière 305p Daucus305 305 Daucus daumont,à dlala305,413 305,413 daumont, Dauphine,à dlala305,413 305,413 Dauphine, Dauphin6305, 305,305p Dauphiné 305p gastronomicmap map306p 306p gastronomie dauphinoise,à dlala305 305 dauphinoise, decant305-6 305-6 decant decoction306 306 decoction deep-frying296,306-7 296,306-7 deep-frying deepfrying fryingbasket basket307p, 307p, deep 308 308 cuttlefish302 302 deer308, 308,308p deer 308p cuttlefish cuv6e 302 defrutum 308 308 cuvée 302 defrutum Czechoslovakia : cookery d6glagage 308 308 déglaçage Czechoslovakia: cookery 504 d6glacer308 308 déglacer 504 d6gorger 308 308 dégorger d6graisser 308 308 dégraisser d6graissis 308 308 dègraissis dehydration 734 734 dehydration d6jeuner 308 308 déjeuner d6lice 308 308 délice demi-deuil, àd la la 308,413 308,413 demi-deuil, Demidoff 308-9 308-9 Demidoff demi-espagnole 309 309 demi-espagnole demi-glace 310 demi-glace demi-john 310, 310,312p demi-john 312p demi-tasse 310 demi-tasse denier, en en 310 310 denier, Denmark: Denmark: cookerv cookery 509-10 509-10 densimeter densimeter 310 310 density density 310 310 dab dent-de-loups dent-de-Ioups 310 310 dab 303,303p 303, 303p dace 303 dentex dace 303 dentex 310 310 dagh kebab 303 de-oil de-oil 310 310 dagh kebab 303 Dahlia Derby, Derby, dà la la 310 310 Dahlia 303 303 daikon dermatitis dermatitis 310 310 daikon 303,303p 303, 303p Daisy d6rober dérober 310 310 Daisy 303 303 Dampfnudeln D6sangiers, Désangiers, MarcMarcDampfnudeln 303 303 Dandelion Antoine Antoine 310,310p 310,310p Dandelion 303 303 dariole Desessarts dariole 304,304p 304, 304p Desessarts 310 310 darne desiccation I desiccation 3l311 darne 304 304 dartois (hors d'oeuvre) dessert lpP dartois (hors d'oeuvre) dessert 3l3 1l,1,3l3 Il 477 d6trempe I 477 détrempe 3l311 anchovy Deux-Magots anchovy477 477 Deux-Magots 767 767 d la florentine 477 devilfish I devilfish 3l311 à la florentine 477 Grimod devilled devilled 3ll-12 311- J2 GrimoddedelalaReyniere Reynière 477 dextrin 477 dextrin312 312 LaguipiEre 477 dextrose Laguipière 477 dextrose312 3 J2 Lucullus diabetes Lucullus477 477 diabetes312 312 d,lareine diable diable312,312p 312, 312p à la reine477 477 sardine diable, l-12 sardine477 477 diable,i àlala3l311-12 tunny diablotins tunny477 477 diablotins292-3,312 292-3,312 dartois (pdtisserie) 304, diaphragm dartois (pâtisserie) 304, diaphragm312 312 304p diastasis 304p diastasis312 312 dates 304,304p dieppoise, dates 304,304p à la312,413 312,4 J 3 dieppoise,dla fritters diet fritters396 396 diet312 312 d la cr6ole 396 dietetics à la créole 396 dietetics312-13 3 12-1 3 stuffed digester stuffed304,305p 304, 305p digester313 313

1024

D D

1024

INDEX INDEX digestibility 314 314 digestibility

duchesse duchessemixture mixture 321 321

digestive digestive 314 314 Dijon 314 314 Dijon dinatoire dinatoire 314 314 Dinochau Dinochau 767 767 dinner dinner 314 314 stand 314 314 dish stand dish disinfecting disinfccting 314 314 distillation distillation 314 314 dittany, dittany, Cretan Cretan 289 289 diuretic 314 314 diuretic Divan Divan Lepelletier Lepelletier 767 767 diver diver 314 314 dobule dobule 314 314 doe 314 314 doe dog 314 314 dog dogfish 315,315p 315, 315p dogflsh 357 dog-rose 357 dolic 315 dolmas (dolmades) 315 315 dolmas 3 J5 donkey 315 dormant 315 315 dorure 315 dotterel dotterel 315 315 double boiler boiter 315 dough: dough: 315-16.671 brioche brioche 315-16, 671 mousseline 316 dumpling 316 lining paste or fine lining pastry pastry 318 kneading 530 lard pastry 671 318 leavened lea vened 318 pies 671 pastry, for pies pastry, 318-19 savarin 318-19 savarin 320 douillet 320 douillet 758 douillon 758 douillon (dousil) 320 320 douzil (dousi!) douzil Le 768, 768,768p Doyen, Le Doyen, 768p 320 draff draff 320 salad see corn corn salad dragonet, see dragonet, 320 draining draining 320 320 dressing 320 dressing for mixed mixed dressings: for dressings: 877-9 salads 877-9 salads plain salads 785, for plain salads 785, for 787 787 drink: drink: 123 economical 123 economical refreshing and refreshing hygienic and hygienic 123 123 320 straw320 drinking straw drinking pan320 320 drippingpan dripping 320 dromedary320 dromedary Drouant767 767 Drouant 182,320 drum 182, drum 320 320 drying320 drying 320,413, dubarry,à dla dubarry, la 320,413, 413p 413p 321,413 duchesse, la 321,413 duchesse,à ila

duchesses duchesses 321 321 duck duck 321 321

with with sauerkraut sauerkraut 323 323

Amiens Amiens pitt| pâté 672-3 672-3

ballottines ballottines 74 74 liver, liver, see seeliver liver with with pineapple pineapp1e 700 700 roast: roast: cawing carving 324P 324p

duck, duck, wild wild 326 326 dà la la bigarade bigarade 326 326 au au chambertin chambertin 327 327 fillets bigarade fillets dà lala bigarade 326-7 326-7 dl'orange à l'orange 327 327 in Port 327 327 in Port dà la la presse presse 327 327 rcast roast 327 327 salmis salmis 327 327 dà la la minute minute 327 327 dà la la tyrolienne tyrolienne 327-8 327-8 duckling duckling:: d'Albuf6ra d'Albuféra 321 321 dà I'alsacienne l'alsacienne 32I-2 321-2 ballottine ballottine 322 322 ià la bigarade bigarade 322 322 322 d à la la bordelaise bordelaise 322 braised, braised, with with various various garnishes 322,322P garnishes 322,322p casserole. with casserole, with various various garnishes 322 322 garnishes 322 la chipolata chipolata 322 ài la 322 cold 322 cold 322 with olives olives 322 with 322 I'orange 322 àd l'orange peas 323, 323,323p with peas with 323p 323 roast 323 roast 323 ballottine 323 Rouen: ballottine Rouen: 323 la bigarade bigarade 323 àd la 323 chambertin 323 au chambertin au 323 Champagne 323 in Champagne in 323 chaud-froid 323 chaud-froid chemise 323 323 en chemise en 323 cherries 323 with cherries with 325 cold 325 cold galantine 325 325 galantine jellied: en 325 daube 325 en daube jellied: 325, I'orange 325, àd l'orange 325P 325p 325 Lambertye 325 Lambertye 325 mousse 325 mousse 325 mousselines 325 mousselines pie694 694 pie 325 Port 325 inin Port pressed 325 325 pressed 326 souffi6 326 soufflé suprOmes'326 suprêmes .326 326 terrine326 terrine 326 Voisin 326 timbaleVoisin timbale 326 with truffies326 wi th truffles 325 rouennaise325 ài lalarouennaise rouennaise salmis,àdlalarouennaise salmis, 325-6 325-6

terrine terrine 922 922 with with turnips lllmips 323 323 duck duck press press 327p,328 327p, 328 dough 316 dumpling dumplingdough 316 father Dunand, Dunand, father and and son son 328 328 Duroc, Duroc, rià la la 393 393 duxelles duxelles 328,413 328,413 mushrooms mushrooms 328 328 Dyer's Dyer's moss moss 46 46

F t-r E 329 earth nuts earth nuts 329 371 Easter Easter 371 329 6chaud6 329 échaudé 329,329p 6clairs 329,329p éclairs 462 Carolines 462 Carolines 463 Karoly 463 ià lala Karoly la hollandaise hollandaise small, àd la small, 329 329 330P,463 329-30, 330p, eels 329-30, eels 463 330 I'anglaise d à l'anglaise 330 330 ballottine 330 ballottine 330 d I'ancienne à l'ancienne 330 bourguignonne la bourguignonne ài la 330-l 330--1 gauloise 331 331 la gauloise ài la 331,33lP bastion bastion 331,331 P 331 àdlabonnefemme la bonne femme 331 140 bouilleture 140 bouilleture I'angevine collared: àd l'angevine collared: 331 331 331 bordelaise 33\ àdlala bordelaise 331 cold 331 cold 331 royale 33] àdlala royale 463 commachio 463 commachio 265,265P conger 265, conger 265p 331 coulibiacs 331 coulibiacs paprika with paprika cream with inincream 331 331 331-2 diable331-2 àdlaladiable 332 fermidrc332 àdlalafermière 332 fricass6e 332 fricassée 332 fried332 fried 332 Orly332 Orly

1025 1025

in galantine: galantine:arranged arranged in 332,332p coil coil 332,332p

cold cold 330 330 d'h6tel grilled, grilled, maitre maître d'hôtel 332 332 d la hongroise 331 à la hongroise 331 dl'indienne à l'indienne 463 463 il'italienne à l'italienne 332,463 332,463 jellied: in Chablis 463 jellied: in Chablis 463 stuffed stuffed 330 330 red maiinated: marinatcd: in in red 463 wine wine 463 in in vinegar vinegar 463 463 463 in white in white wine wine 463 en en matelote matelote 332,333p 332, 333p d la normande 332 à la normande 332 matelote: matelote: dà la la canotidre canotière 580 580 d la meunidre 580 à la meunière 580 d la meunidre 332 à la meunière 332 463 ià I'orientale l'orientale 463 pie 332,334,692 pie 332, 334, 692 (ri la aux aux fines fines herbes herbes (à la 332,334 m6nagdre) ménagère) 332,334 332 dla à la Nantua Nantua 332 332,334 with trufles with truffles 332,334 d la pi6montaise 334 à la piémontaise 334 poulette 334 àd la la poulette 334 provengale 334 la provençale 334 àila 334 with with risotto risotto 334 334 romaine 334 la romaine àd la 330 sausages sausages 330 I'anglaise on skewers skewers àA l'anglaise on 334 334 330p skinning 330p skinning 463 smoked smoked 463 462 canaphs 462 canapés 330 stuffed stuffed 330 334 la tartare tartare 334 àd la 334 hot 334 tourte: hot tourte: cold 334 Rabelais, Rabelais, cold 334 334 la tyrolienne tyrolienne 334 ài la 464 verjuice in in verjuice 464 334 auvert au vert 334 334 eggholder egg holder 334 334 eggnog 334 eggnog see aubergine eggplant, see aubergine eggplant, 334-5 eggs 334-5 eggs I'africaine 338 ài J'africaine 338 I'agenaise 338 àdl'agenaise 338 Aladdin Aladdin 338 975 water975 albuminous water albuminous 338 I'alsacienne338 ià l'alsacienne 338 ambassadrice 338 ambassadrice 338 Am6lie Amélie 338 338 I'am6ricaine 338 àdl'américaine 338 anchovy anchovy 338 338 I'ancienne 338 àdl'ancienne 339 I'andalouse d à l'andalouse 339 339 I'anglaise339 àdl'anglaise 339 I'antiboise339 àdl'antiboise 338

INDEX

INDEX

d I'anversoise 339 à Apicius l'anversoise 339 339 Apicius 339 339 Archduke Archduke Argenteuil339 339 Argenteuil 339 Armenonville 339 Armenonville Amber 339 339 Amber 339 with aubergines 339 withd aubergines la sicilienne 339 339 à la sicilienne 339 Augier 339 Augier Aurora339 339 Aurora 339 d I'auvergnate 33940 àBabinski l'auvergnate 339-40 340 Babinski 340 Bachaumont 340 Bachaumont 340 andbacon 337p,340 and bacon 337p, 340 Bagration 340,340p Bagration 340, 340p Balmoral 340 Balmoral Bamboche340 340 Bamboche 340 Banville 340 Banville 340 d la b6arnaise 340 àri la 340 la béarnaise Beauharnais 340 340 àd la la Beauharnais Beaumont 340 Beaumont 340 àd la la b6chamel 340 à lasoubis6e béchamel 340 351 soubisée 351 Belle-H6ldne 340 Belle-Hélène 340 d la bellevilloise 340 àri la la bellevilloise b6n6dictine 340 340 àb6ranger la bénédictine 340 340 béranger bErangdre340 340 bérangère Bercy 340 340 Bercy Berlioz340 340-1 Berlioz 340--1 Bernis 341 341 Bernis341 Bizet 341 Bizet blinis 471 blinis 471 d la boh6mienne 341 à la bohémienne boiled: hard 335 341 hard337 335 boiled: in shells in shells 337 soft 335 soft 335341 Bonvalet 341 Bonvalet d la bordelaise 341 à laborder bordelaise 341 as 341,341p 341, 34lp daslaborder bourguignonne à341 la bourguignonne d 341 la bretonne 341-2 à la bretonne 341-2 Brillat-Savarin 342 Brillat-Savarin 342 Brimont 342 342 dBrimont la bruxelloise 342 à la bruxelloise 342 cardinal 342 cardinal 342 342 Carilme 342 riCarême la carm6lite 342 à la carmélite 342 Carmen 342 Carmen 342 Carnavelet 342 dCarnavclet la catalane 342 342 catalane 342 dàlalacharcutbre 342 charcutière 342 riàlalaChartres 347,351 à la Chartres 347, 351 Chartreuse 342 Chartreuse 342 342 auchasseur au chasseur 342 Chateaubriand 343 Chateaubriand 343 d la chitelaine 343 châtelaine 343 i àlalaChaville 343 à la Chaville 343 Ch6nier 343 343 d Chénier la chevalidre 343 à la chevalière 343

d la Chevreuse 343 à la Chevreuse 343 d la Chimay 343 à la Chimay 343 with chipolatas 343 with chipolatas 343 d la Chivry 343 à la Chi vry 343 Choron 343 Choron 343 d la Clamart 343 à la Clamart 343 d la Clarence 343 à la Clarence 343 en cocotte 336p,337 en cocotte 336p, 337 with cream 343 with cream 343 d la duxelles 343 à la duxelles 343 garnished 343p garnished 343p ingravy 343 in gravy 343 aunaturel 343 au naturel 343 with Parmesan with Parmesan cheese 343 cheese 343 d la p6rigourdine à la périgourdine 343 343 d la rouennaise 343 à la rouennaise 343 d la strasbourgeoise à la strasbourgeoise 343 343 with tarragon 3434 with tarragon 343-4 dlatartare 344 à la tartare 344 Colbert 344 Colbert 344 Comtesse 344 Comtesse 344 Condl 344 Condé 344 Conti 344 Conti 344 d la coque 337 à la coque 337 c6telettes 344 côtelettes 344 with cream 344 with cream 344 with cream sauce 344 with cream sauce 344 dlaCrlcy 344 à la Crée y 344 ri la cr6ole 344 à la créole 344 6la cressonidte 344 a la cressoniére 344 croquettes 344 croquettes 344 in cups ri la hollandaise in cups à la hollandaise 346,347p 346, 347p Daudet 344 Daudet 344 Daumont 344 Daumont 344 Delmonico 344 Delmonico 344 demi-deuil 344 demi-deuil 344 ri la diable 344 à la diable 344 d la Diand 344 à la Diane 344 Dino 344 Dino 344 Duchess 344 Duchess 344 Duxelles 344 Duxelles 344 Easter 34-5 Eas ter 344-5 d l'6carlate 345 à l'écarlate 345 Edward VII 345 Edward VII 345 Elisabeth 345 Elisabeth 345 Esaii 345 Esaü 345 d I'espagnole 345 à l'espagnole 345 Favart 345 Favart 345 d la flamande 345 à la flamande 345 flan: Brillat-Savarin flan: Brillat-Savarin 378 378 florentine 345,346p floren ti ne 345, 346p i àlalaforestidre forestière 345 345 freshness 335,335p freshness 335,335p fied 337,337p fried 337, 337p fritters 395 frÎlters 395 d la duxelles 395 à la duxelles 395

reine395 395 à rilalareine garnishes409 409 garnishes Georgette345 345 Georgette GrandDuke Duke345-6 345-6 Grand gratin au 346 au gratin 346 scallopshells shellsof of485 485 scallop Hal6vy 346 Halévy 346 hard-boiled464 464 hard-boiled andanchovies 459 and anchovies 459 andbeetroot 461 and beetroot 461 canapls 472 472 canapés withendive endive 346 346 with on macédoine mac6doine of of on vegetables 346 346 vegetables salpicon 801 801 salpicon with various various with garnishes 346 346 garnishes on various various purées pur6es on 346 346 with watercress watercress 346 346 with I'italienne 346-7 346-7 àd l'italienne Jeannette 347 347 Jeannette jellied: la française frangaise jellied: àd la 347 347 tarragon eggs eggs 347 347 tarragon Jockey-club 347 347 Jockey-club kromeskies 347 347 kromeskies polonaise 347 la polonaise 347 àd la la languedocienne languedocienne àd la 347 347 d 347 à la la lorraine lorraine 347 Lucullus 347 Lucullus 347 d 347 à la la maraichdre maraîchère 347 Marianne 347 Marianne 347 Marivaux Marivaux 347 347 Mass6na Masséna 347 347 Massenet Massenet 347 347 dà la la m6nagdre ménagère 347 347 Meyerbeer Meyerbeer 348 348 mignons mignons 477 477 d'Aigrefeuille d'Aigrefeuille 477 477 dl'andalouse à l'andalouse 477 477 Beauharnais Beauharnais 477 477 dlac6venole à la cévenole 477 477 dà la Clamart 477 477 la Clamart curried curried 477 477 dàla lanivernaise nivernaise 477 477 dàla lanormande normande 477 477 dlaroyale à la royale 477 477 dàlalamilanaise milanaise 348 348 Mirette Mirette 348 348 miroir miroir 348 348 Monselet Monselet 348 348 Montrouge Montrouge 348 348 Mornay Mornay 348,348p 348, 348p ininmould mould 337 337 dàlalaNantua Nantua 348 348 with withnoisette noisettebutter butter348 348 d àlalanormande normande348 348 omelettes omelettes337,337p, 337, 337p, 351 351 1026

AgnesSorel Sorel351 351 Agnes Albina351 351 Albina I'alsacienne351 351 à dl'alsacienne anchovy351-2 351-2 anchovy Andr6-Theuriet352 352 André-Theuriet apple,àdlala apple, normande41-2 4l-2 normande apricot45p 45p apricot Archduke352 352 Archduke Argenteuil352 352 Argenteuil withasparagus asparagustips tips with 3s2 352 aubergine 352 352 aubergine bacon 352 352 bacon Bercy 352 352 àd lala Bercy bigourdine 352 352 àd lala bigourdine bone-marrow 352 352 bone-marrow la bouchère bouchdre 352 352 àd la la bruxelloise bruxelloise 352 352 àd la la Célestine C6lestine 355 355 àri la with cèpes cdpes 352 352 with chasseur 352 352 chasseur la châtelaine chitelaine 352 352 àd la with chervil chervil 352 352 with chicken liver liver 352 chicken Choisy 352 Choisy 591 Christmas 591 Clamart 352 Clamart courgette 352 Cr6cy 352 àd la Crécy with with crofitons croûtons 352 Diane Diane 352 d à la dijonnaise 355 Diplomat Diplomat 352 du Barry Barry 352 dà la la duxelles duxelles 352 rià la la fermidre fermière 352 Feydeau Feydeau 352-3, 353p 353p filled filled 351 35 J aux aux fines fines herbes herbes 353 353 dà la la flamande flamande 352 352 flat fiat 351 351 dà la la florentine florentine 353 353 dà la la forestidre forestière 353 353 frangipane frangipane 355 355 garnished garni shed 351 351 dàlalagasconne gasconne 353 353 dlagrecque à la grecque 353 353 ham ham 353 353 Hungarian Hungarian 353 353 jam jam 357 357 jam jamand andfruit fruit 357 357 Japanese Japanese 353 353 dàlalajardinidre jardinière 353 353 dàlalajurassienne jurassienne 353 353 kidney kidney353 353 liqueur, liqueur,flamb6e flambée 357 357 lobster lobster353 353 d àlalalorraine lorraine353 353 Louis LouisForest Forest353 353

INDEX dàlalalyonnaise lyonnaise 353 353

Maintenon Maintenon 353 353 dàlalamaraichdre maraîchère 354 354 la m6nagdre 353 dàla 353 mincemeat mincemeat 591 59 [ Mistral Mistral 353 353

Monselet Monselet 353 353 Montbry Montbry 353 353 with wÎthmorels morels 353 353 mousseline mousseline 353 353 mushroom mushroom 353,603 353,603 dàla la nanc6ienne nancéienne 353, 353, 354p dàla la Nantua 354 354 dà la la nigoise niçoise 354 354

dla à la normande normande 354 354 Normandy Normandy apple apple 357 357 Norwegian Norwegian 356p, 357 357 okra okra dà la la cr€ole créole 354 354 dà la la parisienne parisienne 354 354 Parmentier 354 ilapaysanne à la paysanne 354 Polish 354 Portuguese 354 Princess 354 354 d à la provengale 354 àd la romaine romaine 354 Rossini 354 rouennaise 354 ài la rouennaise royale 354 àd la royale Saint-Flour 354 àd la Saint~f(our Saint-Hubert la Saint-Hubert àd la 354 354 and salsify and with wi th salsify sprouts brussels brus sels sprouts 354 354 354-5 Savarin 354-5 de Savarin de 355, la savoyarde 355, àd la 833 833 355 seafood 355 seafood 355 shrimp 355 shrimp 355 sorrel 355 sorrel 357 soufl6 357 soufflé 355 Spanish 355 Spanish 355 spinach 355 spinach 355 lobster355 spiny Jobster spiny 355 onion 355 spring onion 357 "t"~Â'lJt~"'r,"" strawberry 357 357 sugar357 withsugar with 355-7 sweet355-7 sweet 355 sweetcorn355 sweetcorn 355 pimento355 sweetpimento sweet potato 355 355 sweetpotato sweet 355 Swiss355 Swiss àdlala Talleyrand 355 355, 355p tomato355, tomato 355 trufle355 truffle 355 tunny355 tunny 355 two-coloured 355 two-coloured

i àlalaverduridre verdurière 355 355

alalareine reine 350 350

d

i àlalaromaine romaine 350 350

viveur viveur 355 355 op6ra 348 348 dàlalaparisienne parisienne 348 348 Parmentier Parmentier 348 348 sur surleleplat plat 338 338 poached poached 337 337 dàla laPolignac 348 348 la portugaise 348 dàla 348 preservation 335 335 Princess Pri ncess 348 348 la printanidre 348 dàla 348 iàlala provengale provençale 349 349 Rachel Rachel 349 349 dà la la reine reine 349 349 ring: ring: Brillat-Savarin Brulat-Savarin 134 134 134 dlaprincesse à la 134 dà la la romaine romaine 349 349 Rossini Rossini 349 349 Rothomago Rothomago 349 349 dà la la royale royale 349 349 dà la la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert 349 349 sardalaise sardalaise sauce sauce 827 827 819 sauce sauce 819 with with butter butter 819 819 819 d à l'6cossaise l'écossaise 819 349 Scotch 349 Scotch 822 sauce 822 sauce 337-g scrambled 337-8 scrambled 349 l'am6ricaine 349 àd l'américaine 349 I'ancienne 349 àd l'ancienne 349 I'antiboise 349 àd l'antiboise 349 Argenteuil 349 Argenteuil 349 I'arl6sienne 349 àd l'arlésienne 349 I'armoricaine 349 àd l'armoricaine with artichokes artichokes with 349-50 349-50 350 la Bercy Bercy 350 àd la

Rossini Rossini 350 350 Sagan 350 350 Saint-Hubert 350 of with withsalpicon '''>l''\If'r.n spiny lobster, lobster, lobster orother other lobsteror shellfish shellfish 350 350 with with shrimps shrimps 350 350 trufles with wÎth truffies 350 350 S6vign6 350 350 shirred 338,842 338,842 with 351 with shrimps shrimps 351 snow snow 351,351p 351,351p ià lala soubise soubise 351 351 spun spun 418 418 Stanley 351 351

stuffed 464 stuffing stuffing dà la la moscovite moscovite 464 464

472 canapbs 472

350 with cdpes 350 liver with chicken liver 350 350 Clamart 350 Clamart 350 with crayfish crayfish 350 with 350 'l'6chelle' 350 'J'échelle' 350 I'espagnole 350 àdl'espagnole 350 àdlaforestidre la forestière 350 350 Georgette 350 orbacon bacon with hamor 350 350 Massenet350 Massenet 350 withmushrooms mushrooms 350 with 350 Nantua350 àdlalaNantua 350 normande 350 àdtalanormande panetidre350 350 panetière 350 Parmentier 350 Parmentier p6rigourdine àdlalapérigourdine 350 350 potatoes350 350 withpotatoes with princess350 350 princess

tarragon tarragon 351 351 dà la la tripe tripe 351 351 Verdier Verdier 351 35J Victoria Victoria 351 35! d à la la Villeroi Villeroi 351 351 yolk: yolk: stuffing 389 389 d à la la zingara 3511 eggs, plovers'or lapwings'464 357 reptiles' 357 eggs, reptiles' eggs, 357 turtles' 357 eggs, turtles' eggs, 357,358P egg-timer 357, egg-tÎmer 358p 357 Eglantine 357 Eglantine 76 banquets 76 Egypt: banquets Egypt: 76,357-8 cooking 76, coolàng 357-8 358 elderberry : gourilos 358 elderberry. cordial elderblossom: elderblossom: cordial t23 123 123 cordial 123 lime cordial and lime and 358-9 electricity 358-9 359 elephant 359 950 feet 950 elephant's feet 359 elixir 359 359 cola 359 cola 359 ofGarus ofGarus 359 359 Chartreuse 359 Grande Chanreuse Grande 359,596 elk elk 359,596 359 embonpoint 359 359 6mincer émincer 359 359 6minc6s 359 émincés bordelaise with beef: beef: with bordelaise 359 sauce359 sauce 359 chasseur 359 chasseur 359 I'italienne359 àdl'italienne 359 lyonnaise d la à la lyonnaise 359 359 mushrooms 359 withmushrooms with piquante sauce with with piquante sauce 359 359 sauce with with poivradesauce 359 359

t027 1027

with Robert sauce with Robert sauce 359 359 with tomato sauce with tomato sauce 359

359

or lamb 359 mutton mutton or lamb 359 pork 359 pork 359 359 poultry poultry 359 359 roebuck roebuck 359 359 veal veal 359 359 emulsion emulsion 359 en-cas 359-60 en-cas 359-60 360, 360P endive endive 360, 360p with bechamel sauce with béchamel sauce 360 360 braised au gras 360 braîsed au gras 360 360 buttered buttered 360 cream 360 with with cream 360 d la flamande 360 à la flamande 360 gourilos, see gourilos gourilos, see gourilos 360 augratin au gratin 360 360 aujus aujus 360 360 loaf loaf 360 au maigre 360 au maigre 360 pur6e 360 360 souffi6 360 soufflé 360 with Parmesan 360 with Pannesan 360 cream of 874 soup: soup: cream of 874 velout6 879 velouté 879 subrics 360 subrics 360 505 England: cookery 505 entoloma 360 360 entomophogous 360 entomophogous entr6es 361 361 entrées mixed 361 mixed 361 entremets 361 entremets 361 6pergne 361 épergne 361 6pigramme 361 épigramme 361 epilepsy 361 epilepsy 361 Epiphany 362,369 362,369 Equerry 932 932 Ermitage 362 362 362 ermite 362 ermite 362 erythrin 362 erythrin escalope 362 362 850P escargotiere 850p escarole 362 362 Escoffier, Auguste 362, Escoffier, Auguste 362, 362p 362p Esquire Tranchant 363 Esquire Tranchant 363 essai (essay) 363 essai (essay) 363 essence 363 essence 363 almond, bitter 363 almond, bitter 363 anchovy 363 363 chervil 363 chervil 363 coffee 363 coffee 363 fish 363 fish 363 game 363 game 363 garlic 363 garlîc 363 lemon 551 lemon 551 mocha 594 mocha 594 mushroom 363 mushroom 363

INDEX INDEX onion363 363 onion parsley363 363 parsley shallot363 363 shallot tarragon363 363 tarragon tomato363-4 3634 tomato truffie364 364 truffie estaminet364 364 estaminet estouffade364 364 estouffade (6tuv6)364 estoufte(étuvé) 364 estouffée 6tuver 364 364 étuver euphorism 364 364 euphorism ewe 364 364 ewe ewer 364 364 ewer exocoetus364 364 exocoetus extracts 364 364 extracts chicken 364 364 chicken game 364 364 game meat 364 364 meat

F Faby (Fabri), (Fabri), Pdre Père 393-4 393-4 fai'ence faïence 365,366p 365, 366p faisandage faisandage 365 365 falcon falcon 365 365 fallow-deer fallow~deer 365,367 365, 367 roast roast haunch haunch dà I'anglaise 367 367 fanchette fanchette (fanchonnette) (fanchonnette) 367 367 fanes fanes 367 367 fantaisie fantaisie 367 367 far far 367 367 farci farci 367 367 farinaceous farinaceous 367 367 fainada farinada 367 367 Faro Faro 367 367 Far FarPoitevin Poitevin 367 367 fas6ole faséole 367 367 fat fat 367 367 fats fats l1-12 11-12 fattening fattening 368 368 faubonne faubonnc 368 368 fauves fauves 368 368 favorite, dla 413 favorite,àla 413 Favre, Favre,Joseph 368 368 fawn fawn 368 368

fedelini368 368 fedelini Fendant368 368 Fendant fennel368, 368,368p fenne1 368p withbone-marrow bone-marrow 368 wÎth 368 braisedininmeat meatstock stock braÎsed 368 368 368 cream 368 inincream fondue385 385 fondue gratin368 augratÎn 368 au gravy368 368 iningravy grecque 368 368 àdla la grecque liqueur 556 556 liqueur roots464 464 roots grecque464 464 àdlalagrecque sauce 819 819 sauce Fennel-water 368 368 Fennel-water fenugreek 368 368 fenugreek f6ra 368-9, 368-9,368p féra 368p la meunière meunidre 369 369 àd \a ferchuse 369 369 ferchuse ferment 369 369 ferment fermentation 369 369 fermentation fermidre, àd,la 369.416 la 369,416 festive cookery 369-73 369-73 festivecookery feuillantine 373 373 feuillantine feuilleton 373 373 feuilleton veal: àd l'ancienne I'ancienne 373 veal: 373 in jelly, cold cold 373 373 injelly, p6rigourdine àd la périgourdine 373 373 feuillette 373 feuillette fiatole 373-4 3734 fiatole fieldfare 373 fieldfare field-poppy oil 374 374 field-poppy: oil figs I119, 19,374,374p 374, 374p compote compote 260 Corsican Corsican anchoyade anchoyade 374 dfied dried 374 374 fresh fresh 464 464 fritters fritters 374.396 374,396 leg wild pork leg of ofwild pork with with 374 374 marmalade marmalade 576 576 pork stew stew with with 374 374 tart tart 917 917 wine winc 124,374 J 24, 374 figuette 124,374 124,374 filbert, seehazelnut see hazelnut fillet fillet 374 374 financidre, OmmCllere dla à la 375,413 375,413 finger-bowl: finger-bowl: water waterfor for I 1 finte finte 375 375 firecrest 375 firedog 375

fish 375-6. See 5:eeolsocod a/sr> cod etc. etc.

aspic 56 56 bouillabaisse, bouillabaisse,Breton Breton 277 277 bourride bourride l4l 14l 1028

chaudrée chaudr6ededefouras fouras207 207 consommé: consomm6: à dl'amiral I'amiral 870 870 à dlalacancalaise cancalaise871 871 clarified clarified869 869 Commodore Commodore 871 871 Hudson Hudson871 871 simple869 869 cotriadc cotriade 277 277 coulibiac coulibiac277-8 277-8 croquettes474 474 ,",,,,-,Cl U,",,," "" 464 escabdche 464 essence essence 363 363 fillets fillets 374 374 forcemeat forcemeat 388 388 ring ring with with various various garnishes garnishes 134 134 freezing freezing 734 734 fritots frirots 478 478 fritters fritters 395,479 395.479 fumet fumet 401 401 garnishes 409 409 grilled àd I'anglaise 29 29 hash hash 450 450 jelly: stock jelly: 8 stock for for 5! 518 stock stock for, with with rcd red wine wine 518 518 loaves loaves 558-9 matelote 580 àd la bourguignonne 580 s80 à la mariniere marinière 580 580 d à la normande 580 580 d mayonnaise 580 mousse 376 mousseline forcemeat forcemcat mousseline 388 388 pdtes, small 481

pavf

676

pies 692,695

pirozhki

703

pochouse pochouse 708 708 de Verdun-sur-leVerdun-sur-lede Doubs 708 708 Doubs potage Bagration Bagration 880 880 745-6 pur6es 745-6 salpicon 801 801 salpicon sautéof of 831 831 saut6 shells 485 485 scallop shells 864 soufl6 864 soupwith withvermicelli vermicellidà soup marseillaise 882 882 lalamarseillaise soupaigo-saou aïgo-saou 881 881 soup stock 899 899 stock withred redwine wine 899 899 with turnovers:dàlalaCussy Cussy turnovers: 946 946 lyonnaise946 946 dàlalalyonnaise Nantua 946 946 dàlalaNantua ukha888 888 ukha vishiski969 969 vishiski

à dlalaWalewska Walewska973 973

Waterzootje976-7 976-7

nsh fishkettle kettle 376

fissurclle 376p fissurelle376, 376,376p fistulane fistulane 376 376 Fistulina Fistulina hepatica hepatica376, 376, 376p 376p flamande, la 377, 413, flamande,à itla 377,413, 413p 413p flamiche flamiche 377 377 flamingo flamingo377 377 flamique377 377 flamri377 377 flamusse flamusse 377 377 Flanders: Flanders: culinary culinary "1.n.,"'U1H"~ù specialities379 379 flangnarde 379 379 flans flans 377 377 77 apple Grimaldi Grimaldi 3377 banana àd la la crème crdme 75 75 àd la 77 la bordelaise bordelaise 3377 àd la la bourguignonne bourguignonne 377-8 377-8 Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 378 378 carrot carrot àd la la flamande flamande 378 378 cases cases baked baked blind blind 916 916 cheese cheese 378 378 Juliette Juliette Récamier R6camier 378 378 cherry cherry 216 216 Danish 217 Danish 217 with rice rice meringue with 217 217 chicken liver liver Chavette Chavette chicken 378 378 with cheese cheese crayfish:: with 284 284 la Nantua Nantua 378 378 dà la la financidre financière 378 378 dà la ftamusse 377 377 flamusse flangnarde 379 379 flangnarde la florentine florentine 378 378 dà la latticed 549,549p 549,549p latticed teek, with with cheese cheese 378 378 leek, mirabelle plum plum 592 592 mirabelle 679,679p peach 679,679p pear, dàlalacrdme crème 682p 682p pear, cases 377, preparing cases 377p 377p raspberry cream 378 378 raspberrycream reÎne 378 378 riàlalareine rice /775 rtce /)

with apricots 775 with meringue 775

378 dla Sagan 378 378 seafood 378 shellfish 179 ~ 79 shellfish soledàlalanormande normande 379 379 sole tangerine918-19 918-19 tangerine flavour919 919 flavour

INDEX INDEX flavouring 379 379

pilaf 699 699

I,.f(' hpr,c,n'\ 379 379 Fletcherism

potted pottedwith withtruffies truffies 383 383 dàlalafagon façon p6rigourdine périgourdine 383 383 preserved preserved potted, pottcd, in in

fleuron fleuron 379 379

fleursdevin fleurs de vi n 379 379 floating floatingisland îsland 379 379 flognarde flognarde 379 379 florentine, florentine, ila à la 379 379 flounder flounder 379,379p 379, 379p flour flour 380,380p 380, 380p

flouring 380 380 floutes floutes 380 flowers: flowers: three three flowers flowers

cordial cordial 124 124 fluorine fluorine 380 380 fl0te flûte 380 380 flute, flute, to to 380 380 fogosch 380 380 foie gras gras 380-l 380-\ aspic 56 56 en en Bellevue Bellevue 381 381 en en brioche 381 en casserole 381

enchausson en chausson 381 en cocotte 381 croquettes 381 d la P6rigueux 474 d à la reine reine 474 cutlets 381 'eggs'381 'eggs' 38\ Cambac6rds escalopes: esca 10 pes: Cam ba cérès 381 381 chaud-froid 381 en chaud-froid with grapes and with truffies 381-2 381-2 truffies Montrouge 382 382 Montrouge Richelieu 382 382 Richelieu la romaÎne romaine 382 382 àd la 382 with truilles truffies 382 with la financière financidre 382 382 àd la I'ancienne fritters: il.i l'ancienne fritters: 395 395 395 with truille truffie 395 with 381 kromeskies 381 kromeskies loaf 382, 382,559 loaf 559

jellied 38~559.559p 382,559,559p jcll~d 382 medallions 382 medallions mousse 382, 382,597 mousse 597 382 mousselines 382 mousselines la omelette: àd la omelette: 352 bigourdane 352 bigourdane 353 Louis Forest Forest 353 Louis Rossini 354 354 Rossini pancakesàdlala 1-1'''''-<:1'''''''' p6rigourdine 382 382 with paprika 382 382

parfait

382

382 pdt6: de P6rigueux 382

with trufles673 673 wÎth pav6: àdlalaking king 675 675 withtfuffies 675 trufres 675 wîth piewith withtrumes 694 truffies 694

goose goose fat fat 383 383

pur6e purée 746 746 quenelles 754 754 rissoles 383,484 383,484 salpicon 801 801 d la boh6mienne bohémienne 800 800 ià lala Montglas Momglas 801 801 la p6rigourdine dàla 801 801 sandwiches sandwiches 804 804 in jelly 383 shells shellsinjelly 383

Fontainebleau Fontainebleau 386 386 Food Foodprocessor 386 386

fool fool 386

forcemeats forcemeats 386 386 anchovy anchovy 388 388 beef beef 386 386 chicken chicken 386 386 crayfish crayfish 388 388

creamfish cream fish 388 388 for for fish fish 389 389 for galantines, pAt6s and potted

preparations 386 game game 386 386 dà gratin gratin 387 387 garlic garlic 408 408

godiveau godiveau with with chives chives 428 428 dà gratin gratin for for canap6s '"'<"'aw'.... " and and crofitons croûtons 387 387 mousseline mousseline 387 387 mushrooms mushrooms 389.603 389, 603 panada:: with with butter butter 387,388 387,388 with with cream cream 387 387 for for fish fish and and shellfish shellfish mousses mousses 388-9 388-9 panadas for panadas for 386 386 gras or or of foie for for pit6 of foie gras gras 387 387 potted foie potted foie gras p6rigourdine 387 387 périgourdine pickled herring 389 herring 389 pickled 389 pike ài la la lyonnaise lyonnaise 389 pike pork: fine fine 387 387 pork: 387 ordinary 387 ordinary poultry 387 387 for poultry for poultry: liver liver àd gratin poultry. 387 387 potted p6t6s and and potted for pâtés for preparations 387 387 prawn 389 389 prawn quenelle 387-8 387-8 sage and onion 389

soufl6 soufflé 383 383 Souvarov Souvarov 383 383 subrics su bries 905 905 tart: tart: dà I'ancienne ['ancienne 384 384

with with trufles truffies 384 384

tinned, tinned, in in goose fat fat 384 384 Madeira in truffied: trufficd: in ''''<:1'''",','a 384

pit6 pâté 382-3,383p 382-3, in in port port 384 384

la turnovers turnovers dà la 946 p6rigourdine 946 périgourdine 498 icing 498 fondant fondant iCÎng 498 strawberry 498 477 fondants 477 fondants 477 Argenteuil 477 cheese 477 Cr6cy 477 with foie gras Taillevant 477 gras and foie gras and with foie with

477-g truffies 477-8 truffies 478 meat 478 meat 478 Nantua 478 la Nantua àd la 478 poultry liver liver 478 with poultry with 478 reine 478 la reine àd la 478 rouennaise 478 la rouennaise ài la 478 Vladimir 478 Vladimir 478 Yorkaise 478 la Yorkaise àd la 384 !",n,.,_rIP_.~I(:It fond-de-plat 384 385p fondue equipment 385p fondues 384,510

sardine 389 389 cream 389 shellfish cream shellfish 389 shrimp 389 shrimp 389 truffie 389 truffie poultry 387 387 for truffled truffied poultry for 388 veal (hot entr6es) 388 veal(hot pork 388 388 veal and and pork veal 389 vegetables 389 for vegetables for 980 whiting 980 yolk ofegg 389 389

Burgundy 384 384 carrot 384 carrot 384 celery 384 celery 384-5,385p cheese 384---5, cheese tuber 385 385 chervil tuber chervil 385 chicory 385 chicory 385 tuber 385 fennel tuber fenne! 385 leek 385 leek 385 mushroom 385 mushroom 386 onion 386 onion 386 sorrel386 sorrel pepper386 386 sweetpepper sweet 386 tomato386 tomato

forcing 389

389 forcing-bag 389 forcing-bag la 390, 413 d forestidre, forestière, à la 390,413 390 luncheon 390 forkluncheon fork 390,390p forks forks 390, 390p 390 fountain 390 fountain 390 Fourderaine Fourderaine 390 390 mendicants 390 four mendicants four 1029 1029

fox 390 Foyot 767 frangaise,

dla

414

79-83, France: France: banquets banquets 79-83, 79-83p 79-83p 268-73 cooking cooking 268-73 39G-2, Franche'Comt6 Franche-Comté 390--2, 390p 390p culinary culinary specialities specialities 391 391

gastronomic map 39lP wines and liqueurs 391-2

francolin francolin 392 392 830 Frankfurterwtirste Frankfurterwürste 830

78-9 Franks: Franks: banquets 78-9 and eating cooking cooking and eating 267-g habits habits 267-8 392 frangipane frangipane 392 392 cream cream 392 355 omelette omeiet te 355 panada 663 663 la 393 frangipane, dàla 393 dla 392,414 frascati, àla 392,414 Frascati Frascati 767 767 fraudulent fraudulent 392 misrepresentations misrepresenta tions 392 566 freeze-drying freeze-drying 566 73+7 freezing freezing 734--7

123 fr6nettecordial frénet te cordial 123 Provengaux 7 67-8 Frdres Frères 767-8 394 friandise 394 friandise 394 fricandeau 394 fricandeau 394 fricass6e 394 fricassée 633 animelles 633 animelles chicken: d la chicken: à la berrichonne 394 berrichonne 394 la minute 225 ài la minute 225 332 eel 332 eel

giblets 425 425 p6rigourdine 394 394

rabbit

756

944 ttxkey 944 turkey pinions 701 pînions 701 960 veal 960 veal 394 fringale 394 fringale R6volutionnaires Frites Révolutionnaires Frites 768 768 fritots 394,478 394,478 fritols 478 beef beef 478 478 bone-marrow 478 bone-marrow head 478 calf: calf: head 478 mesentery 478 mesentery 478 and sheep's brains and sheep's brains 478 478 and sheep's foot 478 and sheep's fOOl 478 478 cocks'combs cocks' combs 478 478 meat cold cold meal 478 478 cookedfish cooked fish 478 478 frogs'legs fregs' 478 635 lambs'tongues lambs' tongues 635

INDEX INDEX mussel478 478 mussel oyster 478 oyster 478 poultry,cold cold478 478 sheeps'brains 478

Mont-Bry397 397 Mont-Bry curried curried398 398 salpicon 801 mouldsfor for 395p moulds fried fried398 398 soufl6 mixture 594 mushrooms395 395 mushrooms fritots fritots478 479 sugar-coated 400 musselà dlaladuxelles duxelles479 479 mussel tart: auaugratin gratin398 398 tart:à dl'allemande I'allemande sheep's trotters 478 Nanette397 397 Nanette 917-18 à dlalagrecque grecque464 464 917-t8 sweetbread 478 orange397,652 397,652 orange à dl'alsacienne à dlalalyonnaise lyonnaise398 398 I'alsacienne918 918 vegetable 478 oyster,à dlalanormande normande66l oyster, 661 English 918 à dlalameunière meunidre398 398 English 918 fritters 394, 394p, 478, pasta 479 frittcrs 394, 478, pas ta 479 àla tourte d la mirepoix398 398 tourte392 392 478p peach397 397 478p àdlalaMornay fruitarian 401 Mornay398 398 fruitarian 401 acaciablossom 396 pear397 397 acacia blossom 396 àdlalaniçoise fruitery nigoise398 398 fruitery401 401 anchovy 394,478-9 pineapple 397,700 anchovy 394,478-9 àdlalaparisienne fruit parisienne464 464 fruitkernel kernel401 401 apple396 396 d la Car6me 700 àla with fruit stone cracker withpimentos pimentos464 464 fruit stone cracker401 401 apricot 396 396 plum397 397 plum àdlalapoulette poulette 398 398 frumenty 401 401 artichoke 49,479 d I'agenaise 3197 3r:lÎchoke 49,479 fry, à l'agenaise 397 ring, ring,vert-pré vert-pr6 134 134 fry,see seeanimelles animelles aubergine 394 394 polenta397 397 aubergine frying pan 401 sautéed polenta saut6ed àdlala pan frying 401 banana 396 396 potato395, 395,726p banana fuchsine 401 potato 726p provençale provengale 398 398 fuchsine 401 beef d la lyonnaise 479 raspberry 397 397 àdlalavinaigrette beefâla~onna~e 479 Fulbert-Dumonteil, vinaigrette464 464 Fulbert-Dumonteil.JeanJeanBernois 479 479 rice397,479 397,479 Bernois Camille rÎce soup, soup, velouté velout6 àd lala Camille 401 401 blossom and flower rice cream cream 397 397 blossom and flower fumet sicilienne rice sicilienne 879 879 fumet 401 401 396 salmon 797 797 396 chic ken 401 salmon fromage glacé glac6 399 399 chicken 401 brain 395 salsify 395,802 395,802 brain 395 game fromager fromager 399 399 game 401 401 broccoli 395 395 seafood 395 395 broccoli mushroom 1,603 seafood fruit fruit 399. 399. See See a/so also apple, mushroom 40 401,603 Brussels sprouts sprouts 395 395 semolina 397 397 Brussels apricots, truffle 401 semoHna apricots, etc. etc. truffie 401 calfls mesentery mesentery 395 395 shellfish 395 395 calrs shellfish Bavarian 91 vegetable Bavarian cream cream 90p, 90p,91 vegetable 401,964 401,964 cardoon 395 395 Shrove-Tuesday 397 cardoon 397 candied: candied: Rothschild cauliflower 395 395 softroe 479 cauliflower soft foe 479 soufflé souffi6 866 866 celery 395 395 skate liver liver 846 846 celery ""'''n'\,..."tp" 260p skate compotes 260, 260,260p chard 395 395 sole 859 chard sole crofites 293 cherry 216--17,396 216-17,3196 sorrel 395 395 sorrel with Madeira Madefta 293 293 soufr6 396 396 soufl6 397, 397,397p,479 soufflé 397p, 479 y ......" .. " ... -.••: fritters 396 crystallised 396 chestnut 396 396 with anchovy 479 chestnut 479 with in dietetics 400-1 400-l chicken 395 batter chicken 395 batter 319 dried 399, 399p dried 399,399p liver d liver 395 395 479 à la la hongroise hongroise 479 fool 386 fool chicory d chicory 395 395 479 736--7 à la la parmesane parmesane 479 freezing 736-7 courgette dà la courgette 395 395 396--7 la toscane toscane 479 fresh: fritters 396-7 cream spinach 395-6 cream 396 396 395-6 ices 399 d la cr6ole 396 dà la juices 399 à la créole 396 la florentine florentine 479 d la Creppan 396 strawberry à la Creppazi 396 cl ari fica tion 245 strawberry 397 397 clarification crystallised stuffed crystallised fruit fruit 396 396 kaltschale 523 523 kaltschale stuffed 397 397 Gaillac 402,402p 402, Gaillac currant surprise 397 currant 396 396 with strawberry strawberry puree with 397 M''1,'l1''UJ'- 402 402 galantine date sweetbread 523 date 396 396 sweetbread 396,479 396,479 523 chicken 402-3 402-3 chicken Dauphine tangerine T<:>nOl" • .,np 397 397 loaf 178 178 Dauphine 397-g 397-8 loaf eel: arranged arranged in in aa coil coil eel: egg tomato macédoine 569 569 egg 395 395 mac6doine 332, tomato 396 396 332p 332,332p d la duxelles 395 truffie à la duxelles 395 marzipan 396,479, 938 1" ....... 1....... " 400 400 truffle 396,479,938 cold 330 330 cold dàla reine 395 vegetable la reine 395 moscovi t.es 597 597 vegetable 479 479 moscovites goose 430 430 goose fig vegetarian fig 374,396 374,396 mould 399 399 mould jelliedeels eels 403, 403, 403p vegetariandàlala 403p jellied fish printanidre .... "'r't .... /ierp 668 mousses 598 598 fish 395,479 479 mousses printanière 480 480 partridge 668 d la florentine 479 vegetarian à la florentine 479 omelettewith withjam 357 357 pheasantiniDjelly jelly 689 689 omelette .... h ....· ••.u'~"dàla la pheasant gras: foie d l'ancienne romaine pannequets pannequels 664 664 foie gras: à l'ancienne romaine 480 480 Rouenduckling duckling 325 325 Rouen 395 Vienna pav| 395 pavé 676 676 Vienna 397-3 397-8 salmon 799 799 salmon and batter pickled pÎckled 399 399 andtruffie truffle 395 395 batterfor for 319 319 hen,en turkey, hen, en fruit, vine pudding pudding 505p,742, 505p, 742, fruit,fresh fresh 396-7 396--7 bellevue 944 944 vinetendril tendril 396 396 bellevue fruitjelly 397 fritto-misto fruit jelly 397 742p früto-misto 398 398 galathée 403 403 742p galath6e hering 479 frittons, frittons,see seegrattons grattons salad 399400,400p, 399-400, 400p, 479 (galactozyme) salad galazyme (galactozyme) Jerusalem artichokes frog 398 Il"l"Il<;:!lIlll"m artichokes 398 569, 790 569,790 403 395 legs: :d àI'anglaise 395 l'anglaise398 398 créole4O0 400 galette403 403 ri àlalacr6ole galette Krapfuns 396 aspic, d àI'ancienne wÎ thkirsch kirsch400 400 l'ancienne5858 batterfor for319 319 with ........... "'u .. .., 396 batter Lucullus d àla b6chamel béchamel398 398 maltaise400 400 pastry403,404p 404p d àlalamaltaise Lucullus479 479 flakypastry marrow with withchopped chopped nonnande400 400 littlesalted: salted:batter batterfor for d àlalanormande marrowflowers flowers480 480 little meat parsley l'occitanienne400 400 parsley398 398 d àI'occitanienne meat395,479 395,479 319 319 mincemeat incream in cream398 398 Tsarina400 400 plomb404 404 mincemeat591 591 Tsarina dedeplomb

G

1030 1030

INDEX INDEX potato 404 404 potato rich 404 404 rich savoury 404 savoury 404 orange 4034 403-4 smallorange small 404 galingale 404 p<,a.l''-''''U''''' 404 404 galichons 404 galicien 404 gal! 404 404 gall gallllmélUtlry 404 gallimaufry 404 gallnut nut 405 gall Gallo-Romans:: banquets banquets Gallo-Romans 78 78 gan1acl1e 405 405 gamache 405 Gamay 405 gambra 405 405 gambra game 405,405p 405, 405p game attereaux dàla la SaintSaintattereaux Hubert 60 60 Hubert chartreuse dà la la chartreuse parisienne, en

surprise 205-6 choux dà la la SaintSaintchoux Hubert 473 473 Hubert consommé: chasseur chasseur consomm6: 871 871 flavoured with with game game flavoured fumet 873 873 fumet Nesselrode 872 872 Nesselrode Nimrod 872 Nimrod 872 à la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert ri la 873 873 with 873 salep 873 with salep simple 869 simple 869 croquettes 474 croquettes 474 la Karoly éclares 463 KarolY 463 6la 6clares a essence 363 essence 363 extract 364 extract 364 forcemeat 386 forcemeat 386 ài gratin gratin 387 387 ring various with various ring with garnishes 135 garnishes 135 734 freezing 734 fumet 401 fumet 401 ground: 450 ground: hash hash 450 hanging 365 hanging 365 hamburger 447 steak 447 hamburger steak interlarding 297 interlarding 297 jelly: jelly :stock 518 for 518 stock for loaves 559 loaves 559 omelette: 352 Diana 352 omelette: Diana ài lalaSaint-Hubert Saint-Hubert 354 354 orieller de belle orieller delalabelle Aurore 654 Aurore 654 pâtés, Saintpit6s,smaH: small:àdlalaSaintHubert 482 Hubert 482 with 481 stock481 withstock SaintpattiesàdlalaSaintHubert 483 Hubert483 pavé pav6àdlalaSaint-Hubert Saint-Hubert 675 67s

iàI'anglaise l'anglaise 410 410

pies 692-3 692-3 pies pirozhki 703 703 pirozhki potagegentilhomme gentilhomme potage 880 880 pudding 740-l 740-1 pudding 746 pur6es 746 royaleof of 418 418 royale 754 quenelles 754 salpicon 801 801 salpicon la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert dàla 801 801 soufflé 864 864 souffi6 la P6rigueux Périgueux 864 864 dà la purée 876 876 soup: pur6e 879 velout6 879 stock 899 899 stock aspic 58 58 winged:: asPic entrecuisse 361 361 entrecuisse flllets 374 374 fillets hash 450 450 hash 406 game-bag 406 gantois 406 garbanzos (garvance) 406 garbure 406 406, 406p garde-manger 406,406P garden warbler warbler 406,407p 406, 407P gardeir à l'arlésienne 407 407 d I'arl6sienne in the the manner manner of in Father Fabri 407 Father Fabri àd la landaise 407 la landaise àd la pi6montaise 407 la piémontaise àd la (d la la la polenta (à VIUUll1''-'1 407 407 romaine) roast 407 roast 407 garfish 407 garfish 407 407 gargote 407 407,407P garlic 407,407p butter 168.408 butter 168,408 capons 408 capons 408 essence 363 essence 363 forcemeat 408 forcemeat 408 Gascogne 168 butter 168 Gascogne butter grated 408 grated 408 oil 408 oil 408 powdered 408 powdered 408 purée 747 408,747 pur6e 408, sauce, 822 Provengal 822 sauce, Provençal sou p àdlala provençale provengale soup 882 882 toast 408 toast 408 408 garnishes 408 àdl'africaine 410 I'africaine 410 Agnès 410 Sorel410 AgndsSorel alalbigeoise bigeoise 6,6,410 410 buféra 410 alalbuf6ra 410 410 I1,410 alg6rienneIl, alSéLClenne 20, 410 20,410 alsacienne ambassadrice 410 ambassadrice 410 américaine 410 am6ricaine410 àdl'ancienne 26.410. I'ancienne26,410, 410p 410p

dàI'Anversoise l'Anversoise 34,410 34, 410

Armenonville Armenonville 410 410 arrangement arrangement 408 408 410 dà la banquière 83, 83,410 la banquidre Béatrix 410,41lp 410,411 p B6atrix Beauharnais 97, 97, iàlala Beauharnais 410 410 Beauvilliers 411 411 Beauvilliers bénédictine 120, 120, iàlala b6n6dictine 411 4lr berrichonne 120, 120, ià lala berrichonne 411 4rl Biarrotte l24,4Il 124, 411 iàlala Biarrotte bonne-femme 411 411 bonne-femme 4l I la bordelaise bordelaise 134, 134,411 dà la la boulangdre boulangère 4l 411I dà la bouquetière 411 411 ià lala bouquetidre la bourgeoise 141, 141, dà la 411 4rl à la bourguignonne bourguignonne d 160,411 4l I 160, à la brabançonne 142, dlabrabangonne 411 4lr Brancas 411 4ll Brancas 148,41I à bretonne 148,411 d la bretonne t-Savarin 153, Brilla Brillat-Savarin 411-12 4tl-12 àd la bruxelloise 157, 412 4r2 Camérani 412 Cam&ani 412 àd la 182, cancalaise 182, la cancalaise 412 4t2 àilacardinal la cardinal 184,412 184,412 carrot 190, timbales 190, carrot timbales 412 412 Castiglione 194,412 Castiglione 194,412 ài la 194,412 la catalane catalane 194,412 Cavour 196,412 Cavour 196,412 àd la 412 chalonnaise 412 la chalonnaise Chambord 412 Chambord 412 àdla 412 la chanoinesse chanoinesse 412 àdlala châtelaine 412 chdtelaine 412 chervil1ea ves 412 412 chervil leaves chiffonnade 23940, chiffonnade239-40, 412,553-4 412.5534 chinonaise 412 chinonaise412 chipolata 240,412 chipolata240,412 Choron 412 Choron412 chou 412 pasteballs balls412 chou paste àdlalaClamart 412 Clamart412 àdlalaClermont 412 Clermont412 cocks' kidneys 412 412 cocks'kidneys composite 410-19 composite410-19 àdlalaConti 412 Conti412 crêpes 412 cr6pes412 croûtes garnished crofitesgarnished browned I'ancienne brownedàdl'ancienne 413 413 croûtons 294,4I3 crofitons294,413 àdlalaCussy 413 Cussy413 1031 l03l

dla à laDaumont Daumont 305,413 305,413 413 dàla laDauphine Dauphine 305, 305,413

iàlala demi-deuil demi-deuil 308, 308, 413 413

413 la dieppoise 312, dàla 312,413

Dubarry Dubarry 320,413, 320,413, 413p 413p dà la la duchesse duchesse 413 413

Duroc Duroc 413 413 Duxelles Duxelles 413 413 Favart Favart 413 413 dà la la favorite favorite 413 413 dà la la fermidre fermière 369,413 369,413 413 dà la la financidre financière 375, 375,413 dlaflamande à la flamande 413, 413, 4l3p 41 dà la la forestidre 390, 390, 413-14 dà la frangaise française 414 414 392,414, Frascati Frascati 392,414, 414p 414,422 la gauloise 414,422 d àla 414 glazedonions onions 414 Godard 414 Godard Gorenflot 414 Gouff6 414 Gouffé (of potatoes): gratin (ofpotatoes): 414 dauphinois 414 414 dlasavoyarde 414 àla 414 W 414 Henry IV 414 i la hongroise 414 àla 501 d I'imp6riale 501 414, d la jardini&e 414, s

17-18

Jessica 415 Joinville 415 julienne 415

languedocienne la tautgueO()Cllemle ài la 415,548 415, 554 Limousine, àdlala 554 Limousine, 415 lorraine 415 la lorraine àdla 415 lyonnaise 415 àdlalalyonnaise 415 macédoine mac6doine 415 415 Maillot 415 Maillot 415 maraichdre 415 ài lalamaraîchère 415,574 àilamar6chale la maréchale 415,574 415 àdlala Marigny 415 415 i la marinidre 415 àla 415 Marivaux 415 Marivaux 415 marocaine ne 415 àilalamarocai 415,579 mascotte415,579 ài lalamascotte 415,579 Mass6na, dla415,579 Masséna,àJa 415 Massenet 415 Massenet 45 matelote matelote45 415,580 matignon matignon415,580 416 Melba416 Melba 416, Mentonnaise, Mentonnaise,àdlala416, 585 585 416 Mikado Mikado416 416, 589 milanaise milanaiseà dlala416,589 416,592 mirabeau, la 416,592 mirabeau,à ila

INDEX d la mode 4l I à la mode 411

Serge 418

moderne 416 simple 409 à la moderne 416 Monaco 595 spuneggs 418 Monaco 595 Mont-Bry 416 d la strasbourgeoise Mont-Bry 416 Montpensier 416 418-19 Montpensier 416 Nanette 416 d la sultane 419,908 Nanette 4 J 6 à la sultane 419,908 d la Nantua 416,621 tomatoes419 419 tomatoes àNichette la Nantua 416,621 416 tortue Nichette 416 tortue 4419 J9 d la nigoise 416 toscane419 419 à la niçoise 416 àdlala toscane Ninon 416 d la toulousaine (d la à la toulousaine (à la Ninon 4\6 d la nivernaise 416,623 Toulouse) 419 419 àdlala nivernaise 4 J 6.623 normande 416 d la trouvillaise 419 à la trouvillaisc 419 à la normande 416 d I'orientale 416 truffies 419,938 419,938 à \' orien tale 416 truffies d la paloise 416 d la tyrolienne 419, à la paloise 416 à la tyrolienne 419, d la parisienne 416,665 419p à la parisienne 416, 665 419p Parmesan d la valenciennes 419 Parmesan à la valenciennes 419 G6noise 416-17 la Valois Valois 419 419 Génoise 416-17 àd la pasta and cereals 417 au vert-pr6 419,967 and cereals 417 au 419,967 d la paysanne 676 Victoria 419 419 la paysanne 676 Victoria d la perigourdine 685 la viennoise viennoise 419 419 àd la périgourdine 685 àd la la persane 417 Vladimir 419 419 à la persane 417 Vladimir i la piemontaise 417, 417, garum 419 à la garum 419 696 elixir 359 359 elixir 696 Porte-Maillot 415 Gascony 419-20 Gascony 419-20 Porte-Maillot 415 d la portugaise 417 gastronomic map 420p gastronomie map 420p àd la portugaise 417 la poulette 731 gastronome 420 àPrince la poulette 731 gastronome 420 Albert 417 gastronomic associations Prince Albert 417 associations d la princesse 417, 738 42f.J_.l à la princesse 417, 738 printanier 417 gastronomic calendar 417 gastronomie calendar printaniere i la 738 421 421 la printanière 738 d la provenqale 417 gastronomic customs IrAn,..""",,... customs àquenelles la provençale 41 7 417 42t-2 417 Rachel 417 giteaux:Breton : Breton 148 148 417 ravioli 417 centre-pieces l76p 176p ravioli 417 r6gence 417,417p Christmas, Christmas, with with régence 417, 417p Rejane 417 cinnamon cinna mon 506p 506p Réjane 417 d la renaissance 417. ice 495 à la renaissance 417, iee 495 76s Parisian Parisian 665 665 765 d la Richelieu 417.776 Pithiviers Pi thivîers 704 704 à la Richelieu 417,776 d la romaine 418 rice:with à la romaine 418 caramel 775 775 riee: with caramel Romanov 418 with with meringne 775 775 Romanov 418 Rossini 418 Saint-Honor6 I78p 178p Rossini 418 royale 418,782 gaudes 422 gaudes 422 royale 418, 782 of asparagus tips Franche-Comft Franche-Comté 422 422 of asparagus tips 4t8 gauloise, dla 414,422 gauloise, à la 414,422 418 of carrots, called d Ia Gauls: Gauls: banquets banquets 78 78 of carrots, called à la Cr6cy 418 cooking cooking 266 266 Crécy 418 of celery 418 eating eatinghabits habits 267 267 of celery 418 of chicken pur6e 418 gayettes 422 gayettes 422 of ehicken of game puree 418 gazelle 422,422p 422, 422p ofgame offresh pea pur6e gazelle,blue 129 blue 129 of fresh pea purée 418 gazpacho 422 418 gazpacho 422 plain 418 geans cherries 422 geans cherries 422 of tomato puree 418 gebie 422 422 Sagan 418 Gehirnwtirste rn",,,,.,,,,p 830 830 Saint-Germain 418 gelatine 422 gelatine 422 418 Saint-Saens 418 gelatine, leaf 422 gelatine, leaf 422 Saint-Saens 418 d la sarde 418 gelose 422 422 à la sarde 4J8 d la sarrasine 418 gendarme 422 à la sarrasine 418 gendarme 422 sauerkraut 418 Genista sauerkrauI418 Genista 422 422 semolina gnocchi 418 Genoa semolina 418 Genoabiscuits biscuits 125 125 d la

Genoacake cake178 178 gluten427 427 Genoa gluten Genoese batter batter319 319 glycerine 427 427 Genoese glycerine Genoesecake cake422-3 422-3 gnocchi427, 427,427p Genoese apricot423 423 au gratin427-8 427-8 au apricot with chocolate filling filling potato428 428 potato wi th chocolate 423,423p romaine428 428 423, àdlalaromaine with filling d la semolina 418 418 semolîna normande 423 goat428, 428,428p with mocha mochacream cream423 423 Goat's Beard Beard 428 wÎth Gentian 423 423 goblet 428 428 Gentian goblet tisane 927 927 gobletservice service 428 428 tisane gob!et Geophagist 423 423 goby428 428 goby Geophagîst georgette 423 423 godiveau 428 428 godiveau georgette G6rard, àri lala 393 393 with chives chives428 428 Gérard, wÎth Germany: cookery 505-7 505-7 godwit godwit 428 428 Germany. germon 423, 423,423p go6land 428 428 goéland germon 423p gherkin423,464 423,464 gogues 429 429 gogues gherkin fresh salt, salt, àd la la russe russe 424 424 gold gold 429 429 fresh in vinegar 423-4 4234 Good King King Henry429 in Good 429 gibassier 710 goose 429,429p 429,429p gÎ bassier 710 goose giblets 225,424, 225,424,424p I'alsacienne 429 429 giblets 424p àd J'alsacienne 424 I'anglaise 430 430 àd l'anglaise àdl'anglaise l'anglaise 424 bonne femme femme 424 424 ballottine 430 430 bonne ballottine d la bourgeoise 424-5 424-5 d la bourguignonne 430 430 àla àla la bourguignonne bourguignonne àd la braised, with various 425 garnishes 430 425 garnishes chasseur 425 425 d la chipolata 430 430 chasseur àla with chipolata civet of 430 with sausages 425 425 confit d'oie 430 sausages consomm6 871 Basque 430 consommé with with 871 corn en corn en suso suso with with àd la b6arnaise béarnaise 430 275-6 with 275-6 with green green cabbage dà l'6cossaise 425 430 l'écossaise 425 430 dà la 425 with la fermiere fermière 425 with kidney beans beans fricassee 430 frÎcassée 425 425 fried 425 dà la landaise landaise 430 430 balter 425 fried in in batter ragoit 425 with with lentils 430 430 ragoût 425 stuffed. with stuffed, consomm6 consommé with peas peas 430 430 with dà la with 871 87J la p6rigourdine périgourdine with 430-l turnips 425 425 wÎth turnips 430-1 gigot, manche dà la manche de de 425 425 la sarladaise sarladaise 430-l 430-1 gilding 315 en 315 en daube daube Capitole 431 431 gimlet 426 dà la 426 la flamande flamande 431 43 1 Gin 426 frittons 426 frittons or or grattons grattons 431 431 ginger 426,426p galantine 430 426, 426p 430 beer I118 l8 d la mode (d (à I'instar) l'instar) de de la mode biscuits Vis6 biscui ts 125-6 125-6 Visé 431,504 431, 504 sugar paft 431 sugar 908 908 431 wine preserved 262 wine 124 124 giraffe 426 ragofft 431 426 giraumon 426 dà lala bonne 426 bonne femme femme girdle 426 431 426 431 girella 426,426p smoked 426,426p smoked 464 464 gizzard 426 breast 426 431 breast 431 glagage 426 stuffednecks 426 sluffed necks 431 431 glace de viande tongues 426 viande 426 tongues 431 431 glass gooseberries andglasses 426-7, 426-7, gooseberries 431 43! glassand 426p,427p sauce 426p,427p sauce 812 812 glazes syrup glazes 427 427 syrup 912 912 glucometer tart glucometer427 427 tartdàl'allemande l'allemande glucose 917-18 glucose427 427 917-18

t032 1032

INDEX INDEX 447 hare halbtan 437 halbran 442 442 hare 447 d I'allemande 447 halcYon grog 437 halcyon M2 442 à l'allemande 447 447 ballottine halibut Grossetete ballottine 447 halibut M2,M2P 442,442p jros,sete:te 768 768 d la p6rigourdine Halles, groundnut à la oelng()U1"OlIlf Halles, Les Les 499P 499p groundnut:: oil oil 647 647 447 ham grouse 447 grouse 437 437 ham 442,442P,464 442, 464 447-8 civet il'alsacienne marinated civet 447-8 marinated 437 437 à l'alsacienne 445 445 448 auchaudron (preserved) American of cream gruel: :sweetened au chaudron 448 sweetened cream of American (preserved) 448 flamande la d 443 oats à la flamande 448 443 oats 628 628 448 lyonnaise la d 445 bayonnaise la d 830 Griitzwiirste à la lyonnaise 448 Grützwürste 830 448 cutlets 443,445 braising or,,'nh<>pl'l 437 437 gryphaea cutlets 448 fillets panfor 443p gtava fillets 448 448 guava 437 437 en chaud-froid 448 Burgundian, with gudgeon en chaud-froid 448 MU\.IM""~Jll 437 437 448 incream parsley 445 en in cream 448 en manchon manchon 437 437 truffies with saut6ed 472 canapbs guignette sautéed with truffles canapés 472 gUll~net.te 437 437 448 445 in Chambertin 437,439, guinea fowl 448 fowl in Chambertin 445 p6'tb 448 cold 439p pâté 448 445 cold 445 pie 692 692 ià lala crdme dà I'antillaise l'antillaise 782 782 pie crème 445 445 448 potted en ballottines 445 en crofite croûte 445 potted 448 ballottines 74 74 4/;8-9 roast legs 448-9 443 Czechoslovakian ià lala languedocienne roast Czechoslovakian 443 languedocienne 449 saddle 443 English 438p saddle 449 443 M9 I'allemande 449 Yorkaise la Yorkaise fondants pie àd l'allemande IOfloams ài la pie 694 M9 chambertin au 478 guinea 478 au chambertin 449 guinea pig pig 439 449 roast 449 389-90 foreleg 389-90 439 Guinguette roast foreleg Guinguette 439 449 souffi6 449 443 German 443 gull German soufflé gull 439 885 soup 885 P6dauque glac6 Reine Reine Pédauque gum 439 soup gum la stuffed àd la 445,445p 445, 445p stuffed syrup 913 M9 p6rigourdine 449 glazed 443, 443,444p 439 arabic 439 périgourdine gum arabic cabassal en 443 Hungarian en cabassal syrup syrup 439 Hungarian 443 (chabessal) M9 443 Italian 443 885 gumbo soup soup 885 (chabessal) 449 Italian gumbo 449 stuffed jambon sous Prague de 932 gum dragon dragon 932 de Prague sous stuffed àdlaroyale la royale 449 gum 46 Harlequin 517 " .. 1",-,., .... 46 cendre 517 le cendre 439 le gurnet 439 hash 449-50 lettuce, chicory with 43940 wi th lettuce, hash Guyenne Guyenne 439-40 ll0 beef 110 445 andendives map 440P gastronomic map and endives 445 beef 450 boiled 445-6 la maillot d gymndtre 440 boiled 450 à la maillot 445-6 450 herbs450 with herbs M5p M5, 445p mousse 445, mousse with 450 la hongroise d 353 omelette omelette 353 à la hongroise 450 450 I'italienne450 dl'italienne 353 Hungarian Hungarian 353 à gravenche 435 languedocienne pastry 446, 446,446p àdlalalan.gw;doclenne inin pastry Graves 435 450 pie 446,695 450 pie 446,695 gravy: brown 809 gravy: brown 809 450 lyonnaise450 443 poached443 pmtcnt~d àdlalalyonnaise from roast 298 298 from roast withmashed mashed pastry àd in Prague: with in pastry veal, thickened 900 900 veal. thickened potatoes450 450 446,446P I'ancienne 446, potatoes l'ancienne 446p grayling 435,435p grayling 435, 450 Parmentier 450 dlalaParmentier 801 salpicon à 801 salpicon à la 435 435 grecque, dla poached eggs with 443 smoked and salted wi th poached eggs salted and smoked 443 77, 77P banquets 77,77p Greece ::banquets 450 446 sauerkraut 446 withsauerkraut r{"\{~lrpr~ 266, 504 450 with cookery 266,504 450 la polonaise450 d 864 soufl6 àla soufflé 864 gH:enga~~es, plums seeplums greengages, see 450 i la portugaise450 strasbourgeoise àla àdlalastrast)OLlr!!leoise greenrlOUse 435 greenhouse 435 potatoes450 450 with 864 with potatoes 864 Grenache 435 Grenache 435 450 roast450 nrpn
Gorenflot 431 431 Gorenflot goudale 431 431 goudale Gouffé,Jules Jules 431-2 431-2 Gouff6, gougdre gougère 432 432 gougnettes 432 432 gougnettes Il Op, 432 432 109-10, Il0P, goulash 109-10, 180,432-3, gourds 180,432-3,432P ptnile 747 747 gourilos 360,433 360,433 gourilos butter 433 433 inbutter in in cream 433 433 incream in gravy gravy or or sauces sauces 433 433 in la grecque grecque 433 433 dà la 433 grilled 433 gourmandise gourmand,golurnnalldise gourmand, 28,433 28,433 433 gourmet 433 gourmet grain 433 433 grain gramolates 494 Grand Caf6 Café 768 Grand Grande-Chartreuse 556 maître 433 grande maitre granités 433,494 granit6s 434p 434,434p grapefruit 434, iced 496 grapes 433-4, 4334,434p grapes dried dried 434 jelly jelly 434 434 paste jelly 519 pastejelly Grappa 434 Grappa 434 grasshopper 434 grasshopper 434 grass snake 434 snake 434 grater 434 grater 434 434 gratin 296,434 langw.;:do<::len 435 languedocien 435 grattons 435

grissini

H

111'-'1 "

1033 1033

INDEX INDEX veal451 451 veal I'allemande 451 451 àdl'allemande b6chamel 451 451 àrilalabéchamel withcream creamsauce sauce with 451 451 d la Mornay 451 hasty-pudding 722 hQtereau 45 451 hâtereau hattelle Gattelerte) 451 451 hàtteHe haunch 451 451 haunch Haut-Brion 451 451 Haut-Brion hawfinch 451 451 hawfinch hawksbill turtle turtle 451 451 hawksbill haybox 451 hay box: 451 grouse 451, hazel grouse 451,45Ip hazel 45\ P 451 àdl'allemande l'allemande 451 casserole àd la polonaise la polonaise casserole 451 45\ chaud-froid 451 451 chauddfroid crdme 451-2 451-2 àd lala crème grilled 452 452 d la hongroise 452 452

loaf

452

mousse 452 452 mousse pi.t6 452 452 pâté potted 452 452 potted roast 452 roast 452 salmi 452 452 salmi supr6mes 452 452 (filberts) 452 hazelnuts (filberts) bdtonnets 88 bâto n nets 88 butter 168 butter 168 caramels 183-4 183-4 caramels ice-cream 492,493p ice-cream 492, macaroons macaroons 568 568 pavb 676 676 soufle souffle 866 866 hearth-cake hearth-eake 452 452 Hebrews: Hebrews: banquets banquets 77 hedgehog hedgehog 452 452 Helder Helder (Cafe (Café du) du) 768 768 helvelle helvelle 452 452 hemione hemione 452 452 hemlock hemloek 452 452 Henry Henry IV IV (garnish) (garnish) 414 414 herb-bennet herb-bennet 452 452 herb-ivy herb-ivy 452 452 herbs 452-3 herbs 452-3 bouillon bouillon 140 140 broth broth 453 453 Chivry Chi vry butter butter 168 168 fines fines herbes herbes 375 375 sauce 811,820 sauce 8ll,820 juice juice 521 521 Montpellier Montpellierbutter butter 169 169 omelette: omelette: dàlalaBercv 3s2 352 auxfinesherbes aux fines herbes 353 353 pot potherbs herbs 453 453 sauce 812 sauce 812 turfle turHe 453 453

hermeticalsealing sealing 453 453 hermetical hermitcrab crab453, 453,453p hermil 453p l''IPI''I''II''I,ClC herrings453, 453,453p d la boulangdre453-4 4534 àla butter168 168 butter canap6s 461 461 canapés hollandaise àdlalahollandaise 461-2 461-2 devilled grilled 453 devilled fillets àd l'anglaise 453 fiUets fried 453 453 fried fritters 479 479 frLUers grilled 453 453 grilled as hors hors d'oeuvre d'oeuvre 464 464 as livonienne464 464 àdlala livonienne marinade 454 454 marinade marinated 464 464 marinated la meunière meuniire 454 454 àd la pickled: forcemeat forcemeat 389 pickled: 389 la portugaise 465 465 àd la

purle 745

rollmops 467, 467,467p, rollmops 467p, 780 780 salt 454 454 salt salted, fiJlets fillets of of 464 464 salted, saut6ed ài la lyonnaise sautéed 454 454 smoked 454 smoked fillets 464 fillets Irish 454 Irish russe 465 àd la russe soft roes soft roes 454 in white wine 454 hippocras hippocras 123,455 angelica 123 juniper 123 raspberry 123 with spices 123 123 hippopotamus hippopotamus 455 hoaxes hoaxes 455-6 hocco 456,456p hocco 456, 456p hog-fish hog-fish 456 456 hog's hog's fat fat 456 hog'sheadcheese hog's head checse 456 Holland: Holland: cookery 505 505 holly holly 456 456 hollyhocks hoHyhocks 456 456 honey 456-7 honey 456-7 water warer I23 123 honeycomb honeycomb 771 771 hongroise, hongroise, dla à la 414,457 414, 457 hops hops 457,457p 457, 457p drink drink 123 123 shoots shoots 457 457 croustades croustadesdà I'anversoise l'anversoise 475 475 omelette omelette 353 353 horn horn 457 457 hors horsd'oeuwe d'oeuvre 457,465p 457, 465p cold cold 457-69 457-69 hot hot 469-88 469-88

presentation 457 presentation 457 horse tchery 488-9 horsebu butchery 488-9 horse chestnut 489 horsechestnut 489 horse horsemackerel mackerel 829 829 horse parsley489 horseparsley 489 horseradish horseradish 489 489 Albert Albertsauce sauce489 489 butter butter 168 168 canapés canap6s ài I'anglaise 489 489 grated 489 489 sauce sauce 489,820,825 489,820,825 Hospice de de Beaune Beaune 489 489 hosts hosts 22-3 22-3 hotch-potch hotch-potch 489 489 hothouse hothouse 435 435 huckleberry huckleberry 981 981 accompaniment tocold to cold meats meats 981 compote compote 981 981 jam 981 981 jelly 981 981 kissel kissel 981 981 Hungary: cookery 504 Hungary:cookery 504 husk husk 489 hydromel hydromel 123,489 123,489 l-\"rlr", •.,.,,,,! .. 1" 489 hydrometer 489 Hypericum 785 hyssop hyssop 489

bombe bombe Chateaubriand Chateaubriand 493 493 bombe bombedarne-blanche dame-blanche 494 494 bombe bombe dauphinoise 494 494 bom be ....diplomate ,1'--" ..... ,,,"",,'" 494 bombe bombe bombe Dofia 494 bombe bombe duchesse duchesse 494 494 bombe bombe Francillon Francillon 494 494 bombe bombe Gismonda Gismonda 494 494 bombe bombe Grimaldi Grimaldi 494 494 bombe bombe Héricart Hfirjcart494 494 bombe bombe iees ices 493-4 493-4 bombe .. bombe ,.,,~""'"'.~, imp'6ratrice 494 bombe bombe M6dicis 494 bombe bombe MonseIet Monselet 494 494 bombe bombe Montmorency Montmorencv 494 494 bombe (mousse) bombe (mousse) mÎxture mixture 492 492 bombe bombe Nesselrode Nesselrode 494 494 bombe bombe succès succds 494 494 bombe bombe tutti~frutti tutti-frutti 494 494 bombe bombe véronique v6ronique 494 494 charlotte charlotte 202 202 cherry: coupe 494 cherry:coupe 494 ice ice 217,492 217,492 cheslnut chestnut plombidres ice ice cream cream 493 chocolate ice cream chocolate ice cream 492 492 cream 492, collee coffee ice icecream 492, 492p coupe Crapotte 494 494 coupe Jacques 494 494 coupeJacques

fruit ices 399,491 fruitices 399,491

Il ibex 490 490 ibex ice 490 490 ice

ice creams ereams and and ices ices ice 490-1 490-l Algerian bombe bombe 493 493 Algerian almond icecream iee cream 492 492 almond bombe 493 493 American bombe American coupe 494 494 apricotcoupe ice 492 492 apricot ice iee 492 492 banana ice bombe Nida Aïda 493 493 bombe bombeAlhambra Alhambra 493 493 bombe bombeBourdaloue Bourdaloue bombe 493 493 bombecardinal cardinal 493 493 bombe 1034 1034

syrup plain, with with syrup plain, base 492 base 492 hazelnut icecream iee cream 492, hazelnut 492. 493p ice cream cream mixture mixture ice 491-2 ice cream cream without wilhout eggs eggs ice 493 493 492-3 ice creams, ereams, plain plain 492-3 ice tee gdteau gâteau 495 495 ice iccd coupes coupes 494,494p 494, 494p iced or sweets sweets iced desserts desserts or iced 495-8 495-8 iced Marquises Marquises 494-5 494--5 iced and iced mousses mousses and iced mousselines 495 495 mousselines iced parfaits 495 495 iced icedpuddings puddings 495 495 iced puddingcapucine capucine icedpudding iced 495 495 icedsouffi6s soufflés 495 495 iced teesflavoured ftavouredwith with ices andessences essences liqueursand liqueurs 491 491

INDEX INDEX irrorateur lemon lemonice ice 492 492 irrorateur 512 512 isinglass melonice ice 492 492 melon l~Hjl14l
J

bean bean 519 519 cherry cherry 517 517 chicken: chicken: stock stockfor for 518 518 chopped chopped 518 518 clarifying clarifyingand and enriching 296,518 296,518 cranberry 283 currant currant 517 517 dessert dessert 519 519 fish: fish: stock stock for for 518 518 stock stock with with red red wine wine 518 518 fruit: fruit: fritters fritters 397 397 fruit fruit preserves preserves 515 515 game: game: stock stock for for 518 518 grape 434 grape 434 huckleberry huckleberry 981 981 juicy fruits fruits 519 519 meat meat 518 518 stock stock for for 518 518 Muscovite Muscovite 519 519 orange orange (dessert) (dessert) 653 653 517, orange orange (preserve) (preserve) 517, 6s3 653 paste 519-20 paste 519-20 519 apple 519 apple 519 apricot apricot 519 519 cherry 519 cherry 520 flowers 520 flowers graPe 519 519 grape greengage 519 CClJl!!.al~C 519 Mirabelle 519-20 HJ.uaU,",Jll,", 519-20 peach 520 520 peach pear 520 520 pear quince 520 520 quince 520 raspberry 520 raspberry 520 strawberry 520 strawberry 520 violet 520 violet quince 517, 517,755 quince 755 519 fruit 519 red fruit red 519 Russian 519 Russian 792 salep 792 518 setpieces 518 set 519 fruit 519 stone fruit stone 519 fruit 519 Swedish fruit Swedish triangles 518 LA .a.11)41'''''' 518 518-19 vegetable518-19 VC,":Cl<1.un: 967 verjuice 967 518 for 518 stock for white:stock 981 whortleberrY 981 whortleberry 519 wine519 wine jerboa 520 520 jerboa 520 artichoke520 Jerusalemartichoke Jerusalem I'anglaise520 520 àdl'anglaise butter520 520 ininbutter 520 crdme520 àdlalacrème 520 fried520 fried 395 fritters395 fritters pur6e520, 520,747 purée 747 520 salad520 salpicon 801 ",a.lIJ',",'-/U 801

1035 1035

soufl6 soufflé 520,864 520, 864

of 874 soup: soup: cream cream of 874 pur6e of 876 purée of 876 jesse 520 520 j6suite 520 520 John Dory 520,521 520,521 fillets Pierre Chapelle Chapelle 520-l

Judas-tree Judas-tree 521 521

juices 521 521 herb herb 521 521 lemon lemon 521 521 meat meat 521,582 521,582 orange orange 521 521 pineapple pineapple 521 521 red red fruit fruit 521 521 jujube 521,521p jujube 521, 521p julienne 415,521,522P julienne 415,521, juniper berries 521, 522P juniper berries 521, hippocras hippocras 123 123 liqueur 556 556 124,521 wirne 124,521 beard 522 Jupiter's I " .... t"'.·'<' beard 522 522 Jurangon 522 Jurançon

K 523 kaltschale 523 kaltschale strawberry with ctt··.,,,T1 with .. ,,,,.,,...,, Puree 523 523 kangaroo 523 n.'Ul!".""V\.J 523 950 fillets 950 saut6ed fillets sautéed 523 kasha 523 kasha 523 cro0tons523 croûtons 523 mushrooms 523 with mushrooms with 523 Parmesan with with Parmesan 523 523 Polish523 Polish 523 semolina semolina 523 5234 kebab523-4 kebab 303 dagh303 dagh galette524 524 524 keftes-524 524 me524 Tchevirme Tchevir 942 turbot942 kedgeree:turbot 123,524 kefir123, kefir 524 524 keftes-kebabs524 keftes-kebabs ketchup 195,524 1'.\"'1'-'1l1..1L/ 195,524

INDEX

INDEX

mushroom 524,603 mushroom 524, 603 tomato 524,928 tomato 524, 928 walnut 974 walnut 974 ketmie 524 ketmie 524 khlodnik 524 khlodnik 524 kid s24 kid 524 kidneys 524 kidneys 524 calves' 642 calves' 642 nbBercy 642 à la Bercy 642 d la bordelaise 642 à la bordelaise 642 casserole 642-3 casserole 642-3 grilled 643 grilled 643 d la li6geoise 643 à la liégeoise 643 omelette 353 omelette 353 with pilaf 643 with pilaf 643 sauteed 643 sautéed 643 on skewers 643 on skewers 643 cocks'473,524 cocks' 473, 524 as garnish 412 as garnish 412 lambs': d I'anglaise 633 lambs': à l'anglaise 633 Carvalho 633 Carvalho 633 au gratin 633 au gratin 633 omelette 353 omelette 353 pilaf 700,841 pilaf 700, 841 on skewers 633 on skewers 633 Turbigo 633 Turbigo 633 auvert-pr6 634 au vert-pré 634 omelette 353 omelette 353 ox 629 ox 629 saut6ed with Madeira sautéed with Madeira 524 524 sheep's or lambs': pilaf sheep's or lambs': pilaf 841 841 on skewer 525p,634p on skewer 525p, 634p kilkis 459,525 kilkis 459,525 kimali burek 525 kimali burek 525 kingfish 525 kingfish 525 kingfisher 442 kingfisher 442 kippers 525 kippers 525 Kirsch 525 Kirsch 525 kisel 525 kisel 525 kissing crust 525 kissi ng crus t 525 kitchen equipment kitchen equipment 525-30,526p,527p, 525-3~ 526p,527p, 528p,529p 528p,529p kitchens 267p,269p, kitchens 267p,269p, 27|p,272p,273p 271p, 272p, 273p kitchen team (staff) 530 kitchen team (staff) 530 Knackwiirste 830 Knackwürste 830 kneadingofdough 530 kneading of dough 530 knee-holly 456 knee-holly 456 knife-rest 531 knife-rest 531 knives 530p, 530-1, 53lp knives 530p, 530--1, 531 p Knoblauchwtirste 830 Knoblauchwürste 830 Kochwiirstel 830 Kochwürstel 830 kohlrabi 531 kohlrabi 531 dlapaysanne 531 à la paysanne 531 Kiinigswiirste 830 Kônigswürste 830 koumiss 531 koumiss 531 kromeskies kromeskies (kromesquies) 289,480 (kromesquies) 289,480

I'ancienne480 480 àdl'ancienne d la bonne femme 480 à la bonne femme 480 carm6lite480 480 àdlalacamlélite chicken 226 chic ken 226 egg347 347 egg polonaise 347 d la 347 à la polonaise florentine 480 480 àAlalaflorentine gras381 foie gras 381 foie d la frangaise 480 à la française 480 lobster 563 lobs ter 563 mirepoix 480 480 àdlala mirepoix mixtures for for 593 593 mixtures polonaise 480 480 àd lala polonaise larusse russe 480 480 àd la Saint-Hubert 480 480 Saint-Hubert spiny lobster lobster 893 893 spiny with various various vegetables vegetables with 480 480 la Vladimir Vladimir 480 480 àri la Kugelhopf (Kougloff) (Kougloff) Kugelhopf

20p,531p,532 20p, 531p, 532 kulich 178-9, 178-9,532,532p kulich 532, 532p Kummel 532 532 Kummel kumquat 532 532 kumquat Kvass 532 532 Kvass

LL labrus labrus 533 533 lache lache 533 533 lactary lactary 533 533 lactic lac tic acid acid 533 533 lactic lacticferments ferments 533 533 lactometer lactometer 533 533 ladies' fingers, see okra ladies' fingers, see oha ladle ladle 533 533 lady's lady'ssmock smock 184 184 lagopus lagopus 533 533 Laguipidre Laguipière 533 533 laitiat laitiat 533 533 lamb lamb 533-4 533-4 baby babylamb lambstuffed stuffedwith with rice 535 rice 535 ballottine: ballottine:i àlala boulangdre boulangère 7373 d la bougeoise 73 à la bougeoise 73 braised: braised:i àlalabonne bonne 1036 1036

femme7373 femme cold,with withvarious various cold, garnishes 73 73 garnishes 73,73p ininjelly jelly 73, 73p baron535, 535,535p baron 535p blanquette 536 536 blanquette I'ancienne 536 536 àdl'ancienne brains, see brains brains brains,see breast 536 536 breast I'anglaise 536 536 àdl'anglaise in breadcrumbs breadcrumbs with with in various garnishes garnishes various s36 536 diable 536 536 àd lala diable 6pigrammes 536 536 épigrammes fried in in batter batter 536 536 fried stuffed 536 536 stuffed chops 536 536 chops I'ancienne 536 536 àd l'ancienne I'anglaise 536-7 536-7 àd l'anglaise in aspicjelly aspic jelly 537 537 in bar-man 537 537 bar-man in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs. in garnished 537 garni shed 537 Brossard 537 537 Brossard Champvallon 537 Champvallon chaud-froid 537, 537. chaud-froid 537p 537p Conti 537 537 Conti in cr6pinettes 537 537 in crépinettes Dubarry 537 Dubarry 537 d à la la financidre financière 537 537 dà la la frangaise française 537 537 with with garnish garnish 537-8 537-8 grilled grilled 537p538 537p-538 dà I'italienne l'italienne 538 538 Maintenon Maintenon 538 538 dà la la mar6chale maréchale 538 538 dà la la mexicaine mexicaine 538 538 minute minute 538 538 Montrouge Montrouge 538 538 en en papillotes papillotes 538 538 dà la la parisienne parisienne 538 538 Paul Paul Mounet Mounet 538 538 P6rinette Périnette 538 538 dà la laportugaise portugaise 538 538 princesse princesse 538 538 dà lalaromaine romaine 538 538 Rossini Rossini 538 538 dàlalarouennaise rouennaise 538 538 dàlalasarladaise sarladaise 538-9 538-9 soubise soubise 539 539 Talleyrand Talleyrand 539 539 dàlalaToulouse Toulouse 539 539 dàlalaturque turque 539 539 Villeroi Villeroi 539 539 cr6pinettes crépinettes 288,539 288, 539 riàlalap6rigourdine périgourdine 539 539 curry curry539 539 cuts cuts534p 534p

double539 539 double 6minc6s359 359 émincés 6pigrammes361 361 épigrammes filetsmignons mignons 539 539 filets fillets539 539 fillets grilledshou1der shoulder of gril/ed of baby lamb lamb535 535 baby hash450 450 hash head: àdl'écossaise l'6cossaise 539 head: 539 stuffed àdl'anglaise I'anglaise stuffed 539 539 kidneys, see see kidneys kidneys kidneys, leg 539 539 leg I'anglaise 539 539 àd l'anglaise of baby baby lamb lamb in in of pastry àd la la pastry perigourdine 534-5 périgourdine 534-5 la bonne bonne femme femme àd la s39 539 la bordelaise bordelaise àd la s39-40 539-40 la boulangère boulangire 540 àd la 540 braised, with with various braised, 540 garnishes 540 chevreuil 540 en chevreuil en parslied 540, 540p parslied pot-roasted, with pot-roasted, various garnishes 540 roast roast 540 liver, see liver 1iver Iiver, loin loin 540 of baby lamb dà la ofbaby la Clamart 535 of of baby baby lamb, fried fried rià la la viennoise 535 535 of baby lamb ofbaby lamb maharajah maharajah 535 535 of baby lamb ofbaby lamb dà la la p6rigourdine périgourdine 535 535 of ofbaby baby lamb lamb La La Varenne Varenne 535 535 dà la la Beauharnais Beauharnais 540-l 540-1 dàla la bonne bonnefemme femme 541 541 dàla bordelaise 541 541 la bordelaise inacocottedla in a cocotte à la maraichdre maraîchère 541 541 grilled grilled 541 541 dàlalalanguedocienne languedocienne 541 541 riàlalanigoise niçoise 541 541 with withnoodles noodles 541 541 Parmentier Parmentier 541 541 pot-roasted, pot-roasted,with with garnishes gamishes 541 541 minced minced 541 541 moussaka moussaka 541 541 noisettes noisettes(medallions, (medallions, mignonnettes) mignonnettes)541 541

INDEX INDEX dàI'alg6rienne 541 541

Armenonville Armenonville 541 541 B6atrix Béatrix 541 541 Beauharnais Beauharnais 542 542 Carignan vet.llF;J.lctU 542 542 chasseur chasseur 542 542 Cussy 542 542 Cussy Duroc 542 542 Duroc garnished with with vegetables vegetables 542 542 dà I'italienne l'italienne 542 Melba Melba 542 542 Montpensier Montp1ensler 542 Nichette Nichette 542 542 dà la la nigoise niçoise 542 542 Rivoli Rivoli 542 542 Saint-Germain Saint-Germain 542 saut6ed sautéed 541 ià lala turque turque 542 dà la la Valenciennes Valenciennes s42 542 offal 628,633-6 628,633-6 pascaline 542-3 pascaline 542-3 ià la royale 543 paupiettes paupiettes àd la cr6ole créole 67s 675 pie: ài la languedocienne 543 ài la p6rigourdine 693 693 pilaf 543 pluck 707 pluck I'anglaise 634 àd l'anglaise quarter 535 535 quarter 543 ragofit:: ài l'anglaise I'anglaise 543 femme d la bonne femme 543 543 535 roast baby lamb lamb 535 roast 543 saddle 543 saddle 543 saut6ed 543 sautéed 543 I'ancienne 543 ài l'ancienne 543 with artichokes artichokes 543 with 543 with aubergines aubergines 543 with with cdpes, morels, morels, with St George's agaric St 543 543 chasseur 543 543 chasseur la crème crdme 543 543 àd la 543 auxfinesherbes aux fines herbes 543 I'indienne 543 543 ài l'indienne I'italienne 543 543 àdl'italienne la minute minute 544 544 àd la with mushrooms mushrooms with 54 544 (dla paprika (à la with paprika with 544 hongroise) 544 hongroise) 5M Parmentier 544 Parmentier 544 d la printanidre544 àla 544 with toma tomatoes toes 544 544 shoulder 544 shoulder 544 I'albigeoise 544 ài l'albigeoise

Leckerli Leckerli 550,550p 550, 550p

dla à laboulangdre boulangère 5M 544 braised, various braised,with withvarious

Leda Leda (restaurant) (restaurant) 768 768

garnishes garmsbles 544 544 d la catalane catalane(with (with

pistachio nuts) nuts) 544 544 dàla la gasconne gasconne 5M 544 roast roast 544 544 rolled rolled 544 544 on on skewers skewers 544,545P 544, 545p sliced sliced 544 544 sweetbreads, sweetbreads, see see sweetbreads sweetbreads timbale l'ancienne timbale dà I'ancienne 545 545 tongue, tongue, see see tongue tongue vol-au-vent vol-au-vent with with trufles and truffles and mushrooms mushrooms 545 545 lamballe lamballe 545 545 lamprey 329,545 dà la la bordelaise bordelaise 545-6 545-6 pie pie dà la la bordelaise bordelaise 692 692 lampsana 546 546 langue-de-chat 546 Languedoc 54G8 gastronomic g:as.tro,nolmic map map 547P languedocienne, lang:ue:aO(~lel1me, d à la la 415 415 s48 548 768 Lap6rouse Lar>eroluse 768 548 lapwings 548 464 eggs 464 eggs lard 548 lard 548 larding 548 larding 548, needles 548, larding needles 548p,622 548 lardoons 548 lardoons 548-9 larks 548-9 larks 549 femme 549 bonne femme àd la bonne 549 inbreadcrust breadcrust 549 in 549 caisses 549 en caisses en la chartreuses àd la chartreuses 206 frangaise 206 549 la minute minute 549 àd la pdtb 549 549 pâté pantin 673 673 en pantin en 673 Pithiviers 673 Pithiviers pie 692-3 692-3 pi6montaise 549 549 la piémontaise d la pilaf 549 549 pilaf with risotto risotto 549 549 with 940 tufted 940 larks, tufted larks, Larue 768 768 Larue 549 lasagne 549 lasagne 549 latex 549 latex 549 lavaret 549 lavaret 768 Laveur 768 Laveur leaf 549 549 leaf 550 leaven550 leaven 886 Leberknodeln 886 Leberkn6deln 886 Leber-suppe886

lecithin 550

leeks leeks 550,550p 550, 550p riàla la b6chamel béchamel 550 550 boiled boiled 550 550 braised braised 550 550 dàla la crdme crème 550 550 deep-fried 550 550 flamiche flamiche 377 377 flan: la flan: iàla bourguignonne bourguignonne 377-8 377-8 with with cheese cheese 378 378 fondue fondue 385 385 au au gratin 550 550 dà la la grecque grecque 465,550-1 465, 550-1 with butter or or with melted melted butter other other sauces sauces 550 550 Mornay Mornay 551 551 potage potage bonne-femme bonne-femme 880 880 soup: soup: cream cream of of 874, 874, 874p 874p soup soup dà la la bonne bonne femme femme 882 882 d à la la vinaigrette vinaigrette 551 551 left-overs left-overs 551 551 legumin 551 legumin 551 552 lemonade lemonade 552 123,552 frzzy 123,552 with pomegf,anate pomegranate with juice 123 123 lemon peel: preserved 551

908 sugar 908 sugar lemons 551, 551,551p lemons 55lp achar 22 achar 126 biscuits 126 biscuits 168 butter 168 butter 551 custard 551 custard 551 essence 551 essence garnishing 551 551p for garnishing for p 492 ice 492 ice icing 498 498 jam 551 551 juice 521 521 556 liqueur 556 manqu6 551 551 manqué soufr6 866 866 soufflé prdding 742 742 soufl6 pudding soufflé 551 syrup syrup 551 zest 551 551 zest 552, 552p sole 552, lemon sole lemon Lent 552 552 Lent 552-3 anecdotes 552-3 anecdotes cookery 370 370 cookery lentils 553 553 lentils parbe747 747 pur6eài la laConti Conti soup: purée soup: 876 876 pur6eConti Conti àdlala 876 brunoise 876 brunoise

1037 1037

pur6e Conti d la

julienne 876 lentisk lentisk 553 553

lepidostzus lepidosteus 553 553 lepiota lepiota 553 553 lesser lessercelandine celandine 553 553 lettuce lettuce 553 553 with bone-marrow 553 553 with bone-marrow braised: braised: in in meat meat stock stock 553 553 vegetarian veg;etalnan 553 553 brddes 148 148 in in browned browned butter butter 553 553 chiffonnade: chiffonnade: in in butter butter 239,553 239,553 for for cold cold dishes dishes 553 553 with cream 2394, 239-40, with cream 5534 553-4 mixed mixed 240 240 Colbert Colbert 554 554 creamed creamed 554 554 deep-fried aee:p-I:nea 554 554 au au gratin 554 554 ingravy in gravy 554 554 d à la la hollandaise hollandaise 554 554 ià I'italienne l'italienne 554 554 loaves !oaves 559 559 omelette: omelette: Choisy Choisy 352 352 355 d à la la verduridre verdurière 355 pur6e 554, 554,747 747 554,864 soufl6 554, soufflé 864 of 874 874 cream of soup: cream soup: pur6e of 876 of 876 purée 879 velout6 879 velouté 554 stuffed 554 stuffed 554 stumps 554 stumps 47 arrowroot 47 liaison: arrowroot liaison: ri la 554 li6geoise, liégeoise, à la 554 554 lighten 554 Iighten 554 lights Iights 554 554 limandelle 554 Iimandelle 554 lime lime 554 123 cordial 123 and eider elder cordial and 554 limonadiers limonadiers 554 573 Limousin 573 Limousin gastronomic map 574P g:a:stn::m()mlC map 554 Limousine, àdla Limousine, la 554 de Blanquette Limoux, Limoux, Blanquette de 554 554 554 ling 554 554 linnet 554 linnet 918,918p Linzertorte Linzertorte 918, 918p 555 lion 555 lion 198 cellar 198 liqueur cellar liqueur 555 liqueurs 555 liqueurs 555 acacia 555 acacia angelica 555 i1H~~t;W";i1 555 anise (anisette) 555

apricot 555 555 blackcurrant 555 bla<;kcllrrant 555 carnation 555 carnation

INDEX INDEX cherry 555

cherry 555 cherry stones 555 cherry stones 555 citron 556 citron coffee556 556 coffee 556 Curagao 556 Dantzig 556 556 ~~ .. ~.,.., 556 fennel 556 fennel juniper 556 juniper 556 lemon 556 lemon 556 omelette flamble 257 omelette flambée 257 orange 556 orange 556 orange blossom 556 orange blossom 556 peach and apricot peach and apricot stones 556 stones 556 peppermint 556 556 quince 556

raspberry 556 raspberry 556 tangerine 556 tangerine 556 vanilla 556 vanilla verbena556 556 verbena 556 violet 556 violet 556 walnut 556 walnut 556 d la carm6lite 557 à la(dessert) cannélite 557 liqueur wines wines 557 557 liquorice 557 liquorice 557 and orangewater 123 and(lichee) orange water 123 litchi 557 litchi (lichee) 557 little bustard 557 Httle bustard 557 liver 557 liver 557 balls 24 balls 24 burbot 160 burbot 160 calfs: d I'anglaise 643 calfs: à Bercy 643 643 ri la bordelaise 643 àd la la bourgeoise bordelaise 643 643 à la 643 d la bourguignonne à la bourguignonne 643 643 d la cr6ole 643 d I'espagnole 643 forcemeat ri gratin

386-7 d I'italienne 643 à l'italienne 643 d la lyonnaise 643

à la lyonnaise with pilaf 643 643 with 643 dlaprovengale 643 à la 643 purbe 746

roast 643

roast 643 onskewers 643-4 on skewers 643-4 souffi6 6M,863 soufflé 644, 863 chanfaina 202 chanfaina 202 chicken 226,647 cbicken 226, 647 attereaux d la attereaux à la duxelles 470 duxeHes 470 attereaux d la attereaux à la mirepoix 60 flan mirepoix Chavette 60 378 flan ChaveHe 378 forcemeat d gratin for forcemeat à gratin for canap,6s and crottons and cro û to ns 387 387 fritters 395 fritters 395

omelette 352

pilaf

699

salpicon 800 on on skewers àd I'indienne 647 647 l'indienne soufl6 863 863 soufflé cocktail 23--4 23-4 cocktail qeam 24 cream 24 &tck 647 duck 647 omelette àdlala omelette rouennaise354 354 rouennaise game: forcemeat d game: forcemeat à gratin 387 387 goose 431 goose 431 subrics 486 486 subrÎcs au,gratin 24 24 guinea fowl 439 fowl 439 Hungarian soup with liver dumplings 886 liver

lamb's 540 lamb's chanfaina 202 202 chanfaina ox 110,629 110,629 ox pig's 637 pig's 637 chanfaina 202 202 chanfaina gayettes 637 gayettes 637 with mus mustard 717 tard 717 with sausage 721 721 pigeon 425 poultry: fondants with poul try: fondants with 478 478 forcemeat ri gratin forcemeat à

387 387 subrics subrics 486 486 sheep's 841 841 soup, pur6e of 886 soup, purée of 886 turkey 425,944 turkey 425,944 vinaigrette,raw 24 vinaigrette, raw 24 livestock 557 livestock 557 Livre d'Or 557, 557p Livre d'Or 557,557p llama 557 llama 557 loach 557-8 loach 557-8 loaves 558 loaves 558 almond 17 almond 17 brains, d l'ancienne à l'ancienne 639 639 cauliflower cauliflower 559 559 chicken 226-7 chicken 226-7 endive endive 360 360 fish 558-9 fish 558-9 foie gras 382,559 382,559 jellied 382,559, 382, 559,559p 559p fruit 178 178 game 559 559 hazelgrouse 452 grouse 452 lettuce 559 lettuce 559 pike 558 558 potato 727 potato 727 shellfish 559 shellfish 559 spinach d la romaine à la romaine 559-60 559-60 tomato tomate 928 928

veal961 961 veal vegetables965 965 vegetables lobster465, 465,560--1. 560-1,560p 560p lobster I'am6ricaine 561-2 561-2 àdl'américaine aspic56p, 56p,58,562 58, 562 attereaux470 470 attereaux barquettes àd barquettes I'am6ricaine 471 471 l'américaine bisque 876 876 bisque boiled 562 562 boiled bordelaise 562 562 ài lalabordelaise Brillat-Savann 562 562 Brillat-Savarin butter 169 169 butter canap6s 462 462 cardinal 562 562 cardinal cassolettes 473 473 cassolettes en chemise chemise 562 562 en cold, with with various various cold, sauces 564 564 sauces incream 562-3 În cream 562-3 croquettes 474,563 474,563 cuttingup 56lp up 56lp la franco-américaine franco-am6ricaine àd la 563 563 ~ grilled 563 563 grilled hash 450 450 hash Henri Duvernois 563 563 Henri Duvernois kromeskies 563 563 kromeskies d la marinière marinidre 563 563 à la mayonnaise YUlllla'.~L 580-l 580--1 Mornay i\JI,.."rn~", 563 in in scallop scallop shells shells 563 563 mousse, mousse, cold cold 563 563 mousselines, cold 563 co Id 563 d la nage 5634,563p

1038 1038

Newburg 564 564 omelette omelette 353 Diplomat Diplomat 352 352 dà la la parisienne 564 564 patties 483 dà I'am6ricaine l'américaine 483 483 pilaf pilaf 564 564 rago0t dà la cardinal la cardinal 759

risotto risotto 564 564 dà la larusse russe 564 564

salad salad 790 790 salpicon salpicon 800,801 800,801 sauce sauce 820 820 scallop shells of 485, shellsof 564 564 dàlalaparisienne 564 564 vert-pr6 vert-pré 564 564 souffi6 soufflé 564,864 564, 864 dàI'am6ricaine l'américaine 486 486 soup: soup:cream creamof of874 874 pur6e of876 876 puréeof velout6 velouté 879 879 on onthe thespit spit 564 564 thermidor thermidor 56+5 564-5 Victoria Victoriasauce sauce823 823

locust565 565 locust longe565 565 longe lonzo565 565 lonzo loon314 314 loon loquat 565 565 loquat Lordsand andLadies Ladies 565. Lords 981 981 Lorraine 565-6 565-6 Lorraine gastronomicmap map565p 565p gastronomie lorraine, àdlala415 415 lorraine, lotus, Egyptian Egyptian 358, 358, 566 566 lotus, lovage 566 566 lovage love feast feast44 love Lucas 768 768 Lucas lupin 566 566 lupin lute 566 566 lute Lyonnais 566 gastronomic 566p 566p lyonnaise, àri la la 415 415 lyonnaise, lyophilisation 566 566 lyophilisation

M macaroni macaroni 567,567p 567, 567p dà I'anglaise l'anglaise 567 567 dà la la b6chamel béchamel 567 567

with with butter butter 567 567 cooking 567 567 with cream 567 567 with cream dà la la cr6ole créole 567 567 croquettes 567 567 valentinoise 474 474 rià la la fermidrc fermière 567 567 augratin au gratin 567-8,567p 567-8,567p dàI'italienne l'italienne 568 568 dàla laLucullus Lucullus 568 568 dàlalamilanaise milanaise 568 568 iàla la mirepoix 568 568 dàlalaNantua Nantua 568 568 i àlalanapolitaine napolitaine 568 568 dàlalapi6montaise piémontaise 568 568 pudding pudding 742 742 with seafood 568 568 withseafood dàlalasicilienne sicilienne 568 568 ininstock stock 568 568 timbale : dàI'am6ricaine timbale: l'américaine 926 926

INDEX dla à lamilanaise milanaise926 926 with withtomato tomatosauce sauce568 568 with withtruffies truffies568 568 macaroons macaroons 568 568 crisp crisp 568 568 hazelnut hazelnut568 568 Montmorillon Montmorillon 568 568 Niort Niort 568 568 dàla(aparisienne 568 568 plain 568 568 soft soft 568-9 568-9 mace mace 569 569 mac6doine macédoine 415,569 415,569 mackerel mackcrel 569 569 iàI'anglaise 569 569 dàla la boulonnaise boulonnaise 569 569 with browned butter bUller with browned s69 569 Colbert Colbert 569 569 in court-bouillon 569 569 in court-bouillon filleting 570p 570p fillets flllets:: with with aubergines s69 569 la dieppoise 569 dàla 569 dà la la florentine 569 569 augratin au gratin 569 dà la lyonnaise 569 569 ài la piunontaise 1-', ... ' " ..... ,,,,,,,"'" s69-70 with various varÎous garnishes 569 569 570 v6nitienne 570 ài la vénitienne 570 wine 570 in white wine 570 fried 570 fried grilled 570 570 465,509p marinated 465, marinated 509p 570 meunidre 570 la meunière àd la 570 soused 570 soused 570 miconnaise 570 mâconnaise 570 i la 570 miconnaise, àla 570 madder-wort 570 madder-wort 570 cake 570 Madeira cake Madeira 570 wine570 Madeira wine Madeira 570-1,571p madeleines 570-1, madeleines 571p 571 Commercy 571 Lomrrlerc:y

plain 571 madrildne,dla

571

magistdres 571

Magny 768 magpie 571

maia

571

179 honour179 ofhonour maidsof maids 571-2 maigre571-2 maigre 415 Maillot415 MailloL 393 Maintenonà ilala393 Maintenon 593 mixture593 Maintenonmixture Maintenon 768 Maire768 Maire 572 maison572 maison 768 Dor6e768 MaisonDorée Maison 572 Roi572 MaisonduduRoi MaÎson 572 Maitrank572 Maitrank

maize. maize.See Seealso alsosweetcorn sweelcorn 722 porfidge porridge 722 malic malicactd acid 572 572 mallow mallow 572 572 Malmsey Malmseywine wine 572 572 572 malt malt 572

beer beer l18 118

extract extract 572 572 manatee manatee 836 836 manchon manchon 573 573 mandarins: mandarins: souffi6 soufflé 866 866 mange-tout mange-tout 573 573 mango mango 573 573 mangosteen 573

manier

573

manque manque 573 573 maple maple 573 573 maraichdre maraîchère,, dà la la 415, 415, 573 573 Maraschino Maraschino 573, 573, 1005 1005 marc marc 573 573 marcassin, .,uaL'-"',,"'''. see see wild wild boar boar Marche Marche 573 573 gastronomic gastronomic maP map 574P 574p 415,574 mar6chale,dla maréchale, à la 415,574

mafte marée 574 574 393,574-5 Marengo 393,574-5

575 Marennes Marennes 575 575 mares-tails mares-tails 575 575 margarine 575 margarine 768-9,769P Marguery 768-9, Marguery 769p 575 marignan 575 marignan 415 dla 415 Marigny, àla Marigny, 575 marigold 575 575 marinades ~·,," 575 415, 575 la 415,575 marinidre, àri la 415 Marivaux 415 Marivaux 575 marjoram 575 marjoram 575 marmalades 575 marmalades 5754 apple apple 575-6 576 apricot 576 apricol 576 fls 576 fig 576 melon 576 melon 576,653P orange 576,653p orange peach576 576 pear576 576 pear 576,755 quince576, 755 576-7,576p, marmite marmite 576p,

H "•• U

in dietetics 582 in dietetics 582 364,582 extract extract 364, 582 478 fondants 513 dlagrecque fondants 478 freezing 734 d I'indienne 513 734 freshness 581 d la mentonnaise 513 à la mentonnaise 513 freshness 581 fritters 395,479 513 dla à lamingr6lienne mingrélienne 513 friaers 395,479 409 garnishes 513-14, nigoise i àlala niçoise 513-14, garnishes glaze 582 409 513p 51 glaze 582 296-7, interlarding 514 provengale la d n""'.\Jt",... r
fritters 480 flowers: flowers: fritters 480 glazndgarnish 512 512

Maitre Maîtred'Hotel d'Hole! 572 572

......

577p 577 marmot 577 marmot 415 marocaine, àila marocaine, la 415 577 marouette marouette 577 577 marquer577 marquer chestnuts seechestnuts marrons, marrons, see boneseebonebone,see marrow,bone, marrow, marrow marrow vegetable: marrows,vegetable: marrows, 1005 courgettes courgettes 1005 395 : fritters395 courgettes frÎtters courgettes: 352 omelette omelette 352 512 cr6ole512 à dlalacréole

1039

1039

INDEX menus 585-7 menus M6ot 585-7 769 Méot Mdre769 Goutte 597 Mère MdreGoutte Sagnet587 769 Mère Sagnet merga 587 769 587 587 meringues border, 587 with Chantilly Chantilly creamwith 587-8 cream 587-8 Chantilly 587p Chantilly 587p croquembouche croquem bouche (pyramid) 588 (pyramid) crust 588 588 crust 588588 Italian Italian 588 engenoise 594

mixture 594 Marignan 588 àmixture Marignan 594588 d

mixture 594 Swiss 588 Swiss 588 588 m6rou mérou 588 Merovingians: cooking Merovingians' and eating habits 267_g and eatinghabits merveille 588 merveille 588 Mescal 588 Mescal 588of calf, see calf mesentery mesentery calf, see calf Mettwiirsteof830 Met1würste 830589 meunidre, ri la meunière, la 589 Meursaultà 589 Meursault microwave 589 oven 589 microwave mignonette oven 589 589 mignonette Mignot 589 589 Mignot 589 milanaise, ri la 416, 589 milanaise,cake à la 589 416,589 Milanese Milanese cake 589 milk 588p,589-90,589p milk 588p, ass's 841 589-90, ass's 841 590 condensed condensed dried 590 590 dried 590 590 fermented m-ilk analysis laboratory 589p milk vetch 5g-9, 5gp milk590 vetch 58-9, mill mil! 590 (miliasse) 590 millas millas (milÎasse) 590 cherry 590 fried 590590 friedfritters 590 590 with withgrapejam fritters 590 with 590 with 590 Lot-et-Garonne 590 with sugar 590 590 toasted 590 590 590 769 Mille Colonnes Mille Colonnes 769590p mille-feuilles 590-1, mille-feuilles miller's thumb 591 59 Op miller's thumb 591 mill6sime 591 millésime millet 591 591 millet 59\ 591 milliassous mil1iassous mimosa salad591 591 mimosa salad mincemeat 591 591 mincemea 591 Americant 591 American English 591 591 fritters 591591 frit ters 591 591 omelette omelette 591

pie 591,695 pie 591,695 rissoles 591 rissoles 591 vol-au-vent 591 vol-au-vent 591 mincers 591-2,592p mincers 591-2, 592p minerals 12 minerais J 2 loss during cooking 12 loss duringcooking mineral waters 592 12 mineraI waters 592 bottling plant for 593p bottling plant for 593p minestra 592 minestra 592 886,886p minestrone minestrone 886, 886p minnow 592,592p minnow 592, 592p mint 592 mint 592 peppermint liqueur 556 556 sauce 592,825 sauce de mais 592 miques miques de maïs 592 mirabeau, dla 416,592 mira bea u, àsee la plums 416, 592 mirabelle, see plums mirabelle, mirbane 592 mirbane mirepoix592 592 592 592 with meat meatfor592 mixture 594 mixture for593 594 vegetable v .... I'i..... ,<1Ul\.. 593 mirlitons de Rouen 593 de 593 Rouen 593 mirour, au mirour. mirotonau593593 mÎroton 593 missel thrush 593 missel thrush 593 mites 593 mîtes 593 5934 mixtures mixtures 593-4 mocha 594 mocha cake 594 594 cake 594 cream 594 cream 594 essence 594 eSSence 594 icecream 594 ice crcamcakes 594 mochatine 594 mochatine cakes 594 mode, ri la 595 mode, à ladla 595416 moderne, moderne, 595 à la 416 molasses molasses 595, 595 595p molluscs molluscs 595, ragofft 760 ragoût595 760 Monaco Monaco 595 Monselet, Charles 595 Monselet, riCharles Monselet, la 595 595 Monselet, àPierre la 595 Montmaur, de Montmaur, Pierre de 595-6 595-6 Montmorency, d la 393, Montmorency, à la 393, s96 596 Montmorency cake 596 Montmorency cake 596 Montpensier (garnish)

4t6

416 m_ontpensier (pdtisserie) montpensier u--"---' s96

596 Montrachet 596

Montrachet 596 moose 596 moose 596 596 moque moque596 596 moray 596mushrooms morels, see musnrooms moringa see 597 moringadla 597597 Mornay, Mornay, à465,597 la 597 mortadella mortadella mortar 597 465, 597 mortar 597 moscovites 597 moscovites 597

fruit

597 fruit 597 mossberry, see cranberry mossberry, see mostelle 597 mostelle 597 mother 597 mother of vinegar597 mouffion 597 mouffion 597 moulding 597 moulding 597 moussache 597 moussache 597 moussaka: lamb 541 moussaka: lamb 541 mutton 615 mutton 615 mousseau 598 mousseau 598 mousselines 598 mousselines 598 crayfish 284 284 d la Nantua 2g4 foie gras 382 iced 495

lobster

563 lobster 563 partridge 668 partridge 668 pigeon 697 pigeon 697 pike 698 pike 698 Rouen duckling 325 Rouen duckhng 325 tomato, cold 928 tomato, cold 928 mousses 597 mousses 597 apple la Chantillv 4l apple àd la 41 chocolate 598,59tip chocolate 598, 598p crayfish 284 284 d I'ancienne 284 ... ,,,,, ... ,,,' ... 284 Fanchon 465-6 Fanchon 465-6 fish 376 fish 376 foie gras 382, Sg7 foie gras 382, 597 fruit 598 fruit 598 ham M5,445p ham 445, 445p hazelgrouse 452 hazel grouse 452 iced 495 iced 495 lobster 563 lobster 563 orangeiced 653 iced 653 partridge 668 668 pigeon 697

quail751-2 Rouen duckling 325 duckling 325 shrimp, cold 843 shrimp, cold 843 sole 860 sole 860 tomato, cold 928 toma to, cold 928 whiting 980 whiting 980 moutardelle 598 mou tardelle 598 Mouton Blanc 769 Mouton Blanc 769 mud-minnow 948,948p mud-minnow 948, 948p muesli: Dr Birchermuesli: Dr BircherBenner's 722 Benncr's 722 mugwort ...,,,cru,·,...rt598 598 mulberries 466,598 466,598 syrup 912 syrup912 mule 598 mule 598 mullet, grey 598 muUet, grey 598 mullet, red 598-9 mullet, red 598-9 i àla la Bercy 599 599 d la bordelaise 599 à la 599 encaisse 599 en caisse 599 with fennel 599 with fennel 599 fillets dr I'anglaise 599 599 fillets à fried fried599 599 au gratin 599 au gratin 599

1040 1040

grilled599 599 grilled I'indienne599 599 à dl'indienne I'italienne599 599 à dl'italienne meuniire599 599 à dlalameunière moelle599 599 à rilalamoelle nantaise599 599 à ilalanantaise d Ia nigoise599 599 àla I'orientale467 467 à dl'orientale papillote599 599 enenpapillote d la provengale599 599 àla withshallols shallots599 599 mulligatawny hotpot hotpot599 599 mui!igatawny mulligatawny soup soup887 887 mulligatawny musette,en en599 599 musette, mushrooms 466,600 mushrooms 600 barquettes602 602 barquettes blewits 605 605 blewits butter 169 169 butter Caesar's 605 605 Caesar's cdpes 198 198 la béarnaise d la b6arnaise 604 604 la bordelaise bordelaise 604 604 àri la cooked with with cream cream cooked 604 604 au gratin 604-5 604-s au grecque 605 la grecque 605 àd la la hongroise hongroise 605 àri la with Indian Indian sauce with 605 605 d la provengale nrf',VP,~f'l'IIP 605 salpicon 800 chanterelles chanterelles 605 cooked cooked in in butter butter 602 cookedincream cooked in cream 602. 602, 603p 603p croustades croustades dà la la Montrouge 476 476 cro0tes 293,476,602-3 476,602-3 cultivated : preparation 602 dangerous dangerous 600p,600-l 600-1 duxelles duxelles 328,603 328, edible edible 601-2 601-2 essence essence 363 363 aux auxfines finesherbes herbes 603 603 flan flanriàlalaSagan 378 378 fondue fondue 385 385 forcemeat forcemeat 389,603 603 freezing tr""~7,,.,a 736 736 fritters fritters 395 fumet fumet401,603 40 1,603 garnish garnish603 603 dlagrecque 603 àla 603 grilled 603

grilled cdpes 605 ri la hongroise 603

julienne 603 ketchup 524,603 d la

lyonnaise 603

in Madeira (or liqueur wines) 603

INDEX

INDEX

marinatedcdPes cèpesand and marinated 466 466 morels morels 596,597P,605 596, 597p, 605 sauce sauce821 821 omelette omelette353,603 353,603 Agnds AgnèsSorel Sorel351 351 Andr6-Theuriet André-Theuriet352 352 with withcdpes cèpes352 352 forestière 353 353 dàlalaforestidre withmorels morels 353 353 with dàlalacrdme crème 353 353 patties pa nies 603 603 poisoning poisoningfrom from 602 602 poulette 603-4' 603--4, i àlalapoulette 73lP 73lp powder powder 604 604 preserved preserved 604 604 pur6e purée 747-g 747-8 ragotrt ragoût 760 760 St George's George's agaric agaric St 785 785 salad 604 604 salad salpicon salpicon 604,801 604,801 with Madeira 801 801 with Madeira sauce 812 812 smothered smothered or or stewed stewed cdpes cèpes 605 soufr6s,little soufflés, !iule 604 604 874 of 874 soup: sOUP' cream of velout6 velou té Pierre-lePierre-leGrand 879 Grand 604 cloche 604 sous cloche sous 604 stuffed 604 stuffed 604 tart 604 tart 604 ontoast on toast 604 604 vol-au-vent 604 vol-au-vent 605 deer 605 musk deer musk 605 bag 605 muslin muslin bag 605P 466, 605-6, 605p mussels 466,605-6, mussels 606 to 606 allergy to allergy la attereaux àd la attereaux 60 normande 60 normande 471 barquettes barq uettes 471 606 bordelaise 606 àdlala bordelaise 606 cream 606 inincream 29t,474 croquettes291,474 croquettes croustades croustadesildlala 475 marinidre475 mariniére 606 curried606 curried mouclade farmers'mouclade farmers' 607 607 606 fried606 fried 478 fritots478 fritots duxelles frittersà dlaladuxelles fritters 479 479 garnish606 606 asasgarnish 606 hongroise606 à dlalahongroise 606, marinidre606, à ilalamariniére 606p 606p patties483 483 patties pilaf699 699 pilaf

I'italienne 612 à l'italienne 612 in jelly 6l I in jelly 611 Maintenon 612 Maintenon 612 minced: in minced: in breadcrumbs, breadcrumbs, saut6ed 612 sautéed 612 saut6ed and sautéed and612 garnished garni shed 612 612 i àlalanigoise niçoise 612 Parmentier 612 Parmen tier 612 Pompadour 612 Pompadour 612 d la provengale 612 à la provençale 6 J2 d la R6forme 612 à la Réforme 612 d la russe 612 à la russein612 saut6ed: sautéed: in breadcrumbs 612 breadcrumbs 612 with garnish 612 with garnish 612 612 Soubise Soubise 612 stuffed with various stulfed with various garnishes 612-13 garnishes 612-13 LaVarenne 613 La Varenne 613 d la villageoise 613 à la villageoise 613 613 dlaVilleroi à la Villeroi 613 cuts 608p,609P,6l0P cuts 608p, 609p, 610p daube i I'avignonnaise daube à l'avignonnaise 613 613 6minc6s 359 émincés 359 6pigrammes 613 épigrammes 613 filets mignons: en filets mignons: en chevreuil 613 chevreuil 613 grilled 613 grilled 613 613 fillet fillet 613 fillets: in red wine fiUets: in red wine 613-14 613-14 on skewers 613 on skewers 613 haricot (halicot) 614 haricot (halicot) 614 hash 450,614 hash 450,614 hindquarters 614 hindquarters 614 Irish stew 512,616 Irish stew 512,616 knuckle 531 knuckle 531 leg: d I'anglaise 614 leg: à l'anglaise 614 i la bonne femme à la bonne femme 614 614 d la bordelaise 614 à la bordelaise 614 i la boulangdre 615 à la boulangére 615 braised 615 braised 615 d la bretonne 615 à la bretonne 615 615 enchevreuil en chevreuil 615 cutting 6l4P cutting 614p roast 615 roast 6 J 5 de sept heures (d la de sept heures Cà la cuiller) 615 cuiller) 615 d la Soubise 615 à la Soubise 615 liver, heart and sPleen liver, heart and spleen 615 615 moussaka 615 moussaka 615 mulligatawnY souP 887 mulligatawny soup 887 navarin 615 navarin 615 with potatoes 615 withpotatoes 615 printanier 615 printanier 615 noisettes 615-16 noisettes 615-16 d

poisoningby poisoning by606 606 d àlalapoulette poulette607 607

pwle purée746 746

ragotrt ragoûtd àlalamarinidre marinière 760 760 d àlalaravigote ravigote466 466 risotto risotto607 607 salad salad466 466 salpicon salpicon 801 801 dàlaladieppoise d ieppoise 801 801 sauce sauce 607 607 scallop of485 485 scallopshells shellsof soup soup 607 607 dlataftate à la tartare 466 466 mustard mustard 607 607 butter butter 169 169 cream cream dressing dressing 787 787 andcreamsauce and cream sauce 825 825 sauce 607,812,821 sauce 607,812,821 mustard, mustard, leaf leaf(Chinese) (Chinese) 607 607 mustdle mustèle 607 607 mutton mutton 607 607 ballottine ballottine 73 73 baron baron 85.607 85,607 breast breast 607 607 grilled 607-8 grilled 607-8 in breadcrumbs in breadcrumbs 608 608 stuffed stuffed àd I'ari6geoise l'ariégeoise 608 608 608,887 broth broth 608,887 616 i la catalane 616 àlacatalane 608-9 chops chops 608-9 613 civet 613 civet 280 couscous'chtitra' couscous 'ch titra' 280 613 curried 613 curried 609, 661lP cutlets II P cu tle ts 609, 609 I'albigeoise 609 àd l'albigeoise 609 I'anglaise d à l'anglaise 609 601 bouchdre 601 àdlala bouchére various with braised, braised, with various 610 garnishes610 garnishes 610 bretonne 610 àdlala bretonne 610 bruxelloise 610 àdlalabruxelloise c6venole 6\610 ài lalacévenole 0 ChamPvallon Champvallon 610-l l 610--11 6l I chaud-froid611 enchaud-froid en 6l I chasseur611 chasseur 611 Clamart611 à ila la Clamart cr6pinettesà d enencrépinettes 6ll I'ancienne ne 611 l'ancien 6l I curried611 curried 611 duxelles611 à dlaladuxelles 6l l fermidre611 à ilalafennière grilled 611 grilled 611 611 I'anglaise611 à il'anglaise breadcrumbs in in breadcrumbs 6ll-12 611-12 612 hongroise612 à dlalahongroise 1041

1041

Armenonville 615P,

Armenonville 615p, 616

616 616 Nichette

616 616, la tyrolienne i Nichette

à la tyrolienne 616, 6l6p

628,633-6 offal 6J6p

olfal 628,633-6 Polish 354 omelette,

omelette, 482 354 pites, smallPolish pâtés, small pie 6934 482 pie 693--4 pilaf 699-700

pilaf 699700 616 pistache pistache 741 616 pudding pudding 616 ragott 741 ragoût 616 616 d I'anglaise à l'anglaise 616 616 barley with barleyfemme 616 la bonne dwith à616-17 la bonne femme 616-17 celeriac 617 with withchick-Peas, celeriac 617d la with with chick-peas, à la 617 calalane catalane 617 617 kohlrabi with with macaroni, kohlrabi 617 i la with with macaroni, 617 à la milanaise 617 la nigoise 617 d milanaise la paysanne niçoise 617617 dà la à la paysanne 616 red beans 617 with with rice red beans 617 616 with with white rice 617 haricot with with white haricot 616,616p beans 616, 616p 617,617p ib beans ribd 617,617p I'ancienne 617 àdlaboulangdre l'ancienne 617 617 àbraised la boulangère 617-18 617 braised 617-18617 d la bretonne àcold la bretonne 617 618 co Id Maintenon 618 618 d la àd la Maintenon 618618 I'orientale àroast l'orientale 618 618 roast 618 618 saddle sadd le 618 618 cold co Id Maintenon 618 d la à la Maintenon 618 618 6l9P shoulder shoulder 619p (en en ballon enmusette) ballon (en 618,618P 618p femme la bonne618, dmusette) à la bonne femme 618 618 d la boulangdre 618 àdlalaboulangère 618 bourgeoise618 àbraised la bourgeoise 618 with various braised with 618-19 various garnishes garnishes 618-19 d la bretonne 619 à ilalabretonne (en catalane 619 à la catalane619 (en pistache) pistache) 619 619 ilachipolata à injelly la chipolata 519 619 injelly 619cabbage d la with red with red cabbage 619 à la flamande flamande 619 with rice 619 with rice and 619 braised stuffed stuffed 619 and braised 619

INDEX

INDEX

stuffed daube i la stuffed enen daube à la bourguignonne 6t9_20 619-20 with turnips 620 with turnips 620 sliced 620 sliced 620 soupdlagrecque 887 soup à la 887 spelt soup 883 spelt soup myrtle 620 myrtle 620

N nage, dla 621 nage, à la 621 nalesniki 621 nalesniki 621 nandu 621 nandu 621 Nantais 621 Nantais 621 Nantes cookies 621 Nantes cookies 621 Nantua l59p Nantua 159p Nantua, 4t6,621 Nantua, àdla la 416,621 napkins 621,839 napkins 621, 839 Napolitain (restaurant) 769 napolitain (cakes) 621 napolitain 621 Narcissus 621 Narcissus 621 narwhal 621-2 narwhal 621-2 Naseberry plum 804 plum 804 Nasturtium 622 Nasturtium 622 naturism, naturist 622 naturism, naturisl 622 navarin 622 navarin 622 Neapolitan slices 622 Neapolitan slices 622 nectaines 622 nec tari nes 622 freezing 737 737

tart

nivernaise,à la dla 416. 416, 623623 nivernaise, NoEl Peter's 769 Noël Peter's 769 noisette623 623 noisette noisettines624 624 noisettines nonat624 624 nonat nonnette624 624 nonnette nonpareille624 624 nonpareille noodles624 624 noodles I'alsacienne624 624 à dl'alsacienne boiled624 624 boiled withbrown brownbutter butter624 624 with butter624 624 ininbutter croquettes475 475 croquettes gratin624 624 auaugratin l'italienne624 624 à dl'italienne littlecroustades 292 liule croustades 292 d la lyonnaise624 624 àla d la milanaise624 624 àla napolitaine 624 624 àdlalanapolitaine withstock stock 624 624 with noques624 624 noques viennoise624--5 624-5 ài lalaviennoise normande, dla 416,625 416,625 norrnande,àla Normandy 625-6 6254 Normandy gastronomic map map 625p 625p gastronomie norv6gien 626 626 norv6gienne,dla 626 nor'VeE~lentne, à la 626 Norway: cookery cookery 509-10 509-10 Norway: nougat 626 626 nougat almond 17 17 almond white 626 626 white nougatinecakes 626-7 cakes 626-7 nulles 627 627 Nurnbergerwtirste g30 830

nut-gall 627

nutmeg nutmeg 627,627p 627, butter butter 168 168 nuts nuts 627 627 blanching blanching 127 127

916

needles:larding 622 622 trussing 622 nef 622 nef 622 N6gus 522 Négus 622 neige de Florence 622 neige de Florence 622 nelusko 622 nelusko 622 nemours 622 nemours 622 N6nuphar 622 Nénuphar 622 nilroli 622 néroli 622 nests: potato 522,727 nests: potato 727 nettles 623 ncHles 623 soup, cream of 874 cream of 874 n6va, dla 623 néva, 623 nigoise, dla 416,623 niçoise, à la 416, 623 Nigella 623 623 nipplewort 546 nipplewort 546 nitrogen 623 nürogen 623 Nivernais and Morvan Nivernais and Morvan 623 623

gruel, cream gruel,sweetened sweetened cream ofof 628 628 oba oba628 628 oblade oblade628 628 oca oca628 628 soup, soup,cream creamofof874 974 octopus octopus628 628 â 6laprovengale la 628 62g wiwith th rice rice628 628 offal offal628 628 beef beef628, 628,629-33 629-33 lamb lamb628,633-6 629,633-4 mutton mutton628,631-6 628,633_6 ox ox629-33 629-3i pork 636-8, pork628, 628,636_9, 718-19 7r8_r9 poultry poultry 647 647 rago0t760 760 veal629,638-47 629,63947 ognonnade ognonnade (oignonade) (oignonade) 647 647 oil647 orl 647 almond almond 647 647 cotton-seed cotton-seed 647 647 in in diétetics dietetics 647 647 field-poppy field-poppy 374 374 garlic 408 408 groundnut (peanut) (peanut) 647

olive olive 647 palm palm 647-8 poppy·seed 648 648 poppy-seed sesame 648 648 648 shellfish 648 walnut 648 648 walnut oille 648 648 oille oiseaux sans sans tete tête 649 649 oiseaux oka-plant 628 628 oka-plant okra 649,649p 649, 649p okra braised with with bacon bacon 649 649 braised bu tter 649 649 inin butter 649 in cream 649 incream 649 à la créole 649 dlacrlole 736 freezing 736

fied

o oatmeal oatmeal628 628 soup soup628 628 cream creamofof628,874 628, 874 aunaturel a u naturel628 628 water waterI23 123 oats oats628 628

649

omeletteiiàlalacr6ole créole 354 354 omelette soup 885 885 soup tomatosoup soup649 649 inintomato turque649 649 d àlalaturque 649-50,649p 649p olives 466, 466,649-50, olives withanchovy butter butter with 650 650 black466 466 black forgarnish garnish650 650 for oil647 oil 647 stuffed466,650 466, 650 stuffed olla-podrida650 650 olla-podrida olluco948 948 olluco omelettes, see eggs : omelettes, Jee eggs: omelettes omelettes omnibus650 650 omnibus 1042 1042

onager 650 onager 650 onÎons 650 onions466, 46G,650 chopped 650 chopped 650 essence 363 essence 363 fondue 386 fondue 386 fried fried650 650 ininbaUer batter650-1 650-l glazed414,65J 414,651 466,651 d la grecque 466,651 1"\,...,.,.PI",rr",: Archduke omelette: Archduke 352 3s2 à dlalalyonnaise lyonnaise353 353 à dl'orientale I'orientale651 651 sage sageand: and:forcemeat forcemeat 389 389 salpicon801 801 sauce sauce82J 821 soubise soubise 748 748 soup 883p soup 882, 882,883p gratin6e882 882 stuffed 651,651p 651,65lp àdlala catalane catalane 651 651 àd la (à la la duxelles duxelles (ri la J parisienne) parisienne) 65 651 àd l'italienne l'italienne 651 651 thourins thourins 922 922 touraÎn périgourdin tourain p6rigourdin 882-3 882-3

onions, spring 834

onopordon

651

onos onos 651 651 ophidium 651 ophidium 651 opossum 651 651 opossum orach (orache) (orache) 651 orach 651 orangeat 652 652 orangeat orange blossom 652 orangeblossom 652 liqueur 556 556 liqueur paste jelly 520 pastejelly 520 670--1 pastilles 670-l water 652 652 water sugar 908 908 sugar orange leaves 652 orangeleaves 652 candied 652 orange peel : .candied 652 sugar 908 oranges 651-2,652p, 653p see " .. cake, see orangine compote 652 compote 652 cream 652 652 cream croquembouche 290, croquembouche 290, 290p 290p fritters397,652 397,652 fritters 652-3 glac6 segments 652-3 492, ice 492,653 iccd496 496 iced iced mousse 653 iced mousse 653 icing498 498 icing 516 jam 516 5]7,653 jelly 517,653 521 juice 521 556 liqueur 556 c.nCJ~n,.

INDEX INDEX andliquorice water water and r23 123 marmalade576,653P 576, 653p marmalade orangeade652,653P 652, 653p orangeade salad653,653p 653, 653p salad sauce813 813 sauce souffi6 soufflé653,866 653, 866 souffléPudding pudding742 742 soufl6 653-4 striped 6534 striped sugar908 908 sugar syrup913 913 syrup syrup654 654 ininsyruP wine 654 654 wine oranges,sanguine sanguine oranges, (blood) (blood) 804 804 oranges,Seville SeviHe 244 244 oranges, orangette 123 123 orangette Vl «11'<;'<'"'' 652,654 652, 654 orangine orchil 46 46 orchil delala belle belle Aurore Aurore oreiller de oreiller 654 654 orgeat 654-5 orgeat 655,913 syrup 655,913 655 onentale, dà la la 416, 416,655 orientale, origan 655 Orléanais 655-6 Orl6anais gastronomic gastronomie maP map 655P Orléans, dà fl' 393 Orl6ans, la 656 Orly, dà la ormer ormer 656 ortolans ortolans 656 656 àd la Brissac 656 656 àila la Carême Car0me 656 656 roYale 656 la royale in cases àd la in cases cold 656 cold 656 656 ài la landaise 656 la landaise 656 àla d la p6rigourdine 656 656 àdlaprovengale la provençale 656 656 roast roast 656 656 on skewers 656 on skewers orval 656 orval 656 ostrich 656 ostrich 656 949 boiled boiled949 otter 656 otter656 oublies 656-7 oublies656-7 657 àla i la parisienne657 ouillet 657 ouillet657 ouka 657 ouka657 ovens 657p 657,657p ovens657, bakers' bakers' 72p ox: tiPe seetripe belly,see ox:belly, brain, brains seebrains brain,see cheeks 657 cheeks657 feet 629 feet629 heart 629 heart629 kidneYs kidneys, kidneys see kidneys,see liver liver, liver see liver,see marrow 629 marrow629 muzzle 629 mvzzle629 salad 466 salad466 629-33 offal 629-33 otral

palate palate629 629 allumettes aIl umettes1616 attereaux a tterea ux60-l 60-1 fried friedininbatter batter629 629 augratin au gratin629 629 d àlalalyonnaise lyonnaise629 629 d àlalapoulette poulette629 629 tal,629 tail 629 braised braisedstuffed stuffed 629 629 consomm6 consommé872 872 grilled 629 629 en enhochePot hochepot 629 629 souP soup 887 887 tongue, seetongue tongue tongue,see see tripe, tripe, seettiPe oxymel 657 657 oyster oystercatcher catcher 661 661 oyster oysterplant, plant, see seesalsifY salsify oysters oysters 466,466P,480, 466, 466p, 480, 657-8,658P, 657-8,658p, 1005 1005 ià I'am6ricaine l'américaine 659-60 659-60 dà I'artdalouse l'andalouse 659 659 angels an gels onhorseback on horseback 29 29 attereaux attereaux 470 470 Monselet Monselet 6l 61 471,659 barquettes barquettes 471,659 ià I'am6ricaine l'américaine 660 660 d à la la Nantua Nantua 660-l 660-1 661 normande 661 àila la normande 659 caviare 659 with caviare with d'oeuvre hors d'oeuvre cold hors cold 658-9 658-9 661 crdme 661 la crème ài la la croquettes: àd la croquettes: 475 normande 475 normande 475 Victoria 475 Victoria scallop diable, scallop la diable, àd la 485 of 485 shells of shells 660P, florentine la fioren àdla tine 660p, 66r 661 661 fried 661 fried 661 Colbert 661 Colbert 478 fritots478 fritots normande fritters àdlalanormande fritters 66r 661 661 garnishing661 forgarnishing for 659 gastronome's659 gastronome's gratin661 661 auaugratin (devilled)661 661 grilled(devilled) d'oeuvre hors hot hot hors d'oeuvre 659-61 659-61 659 marinated659 marinated 661 MornaY661 à dlalaMornay 485 shellsofof485 scalloPshells scallop 659P opening659p opening 661 polonaise661 à ilalapolonaise 746 pnrbe746 purée 800 cancalaise800 salpiconcancalaise salpicon 813,821 sauce813,821 sauce 661 skewers661 onon skewers 661 soufl6s661 soufflés

d la cancalaise, small

à la cancalaise, sm aU 486 soup 661,880-1 soup 880-1 with okra 887 with okra 887 velout6 879 velouté 879 Villeroi 661 Villeroi 661 oysters, Portuguese 437 oysters, Portuguese 437 486

P Pacaret 662 Pacaret 662 paElla 662 paëlla 662 769 Paillard Paillard 769 paillasse 662 palJ!Ii:1S:St: 662 pains 662 'palets 662 de dames 662 de dames 662 palette knife 662 palette knife 662 662 Palmae 662 Palmae palmetto : achat 2 palmetto: achar 2 palm hearts 662 hearts 662 palmier 662-3,663P 662-3, palm nut 663 palm nut 663 palm oil 647-g palm oil 647-8 paloise, dla 416 paloise, à la 416 Palus 663 Palus 663 panadas 386,663 panadas 663 flour, for forcemeat flour, for forccmeat 663 663 frangipane 663 frangipane 663 potato 663 potato 663 rice 663 nce 663

pancho-vila 663

panetidre 663 panetone 6634 panetone 663-4 664 Panicum664 Panicum 664 paniers paniers 664 pulled sugar 664 664 pannequets 480, 664. See pannequets 664. See a/so crdPes a/sa crèpes 480,664 anchovy480, anchovy 664 664 apricot apricot 664 brunoise 480 à ilalabrunoise 480 664 dlac6venole à la cévenole 664 cheese 480-1 cheese 480-1 crayfish, d la Nantua à la Nantua 664 664 d la cr6ole 664 à la créole 664

1043 1043

ilaflorentine

481

à la florentine 481 in breadcrumbs fried, fried, in breadcrumbs 481 481fruit 664 with with fruit 664 481 dlagrecque grecque 481 481 i àlalahongroise la hongroise 481 481 d àl'italienne à J'italienne 481 jam 664 664 481 d la ligurienne la 481 664 Mornay Mornay 664 701 pineapple pineapple 701 pralin6 664 au 664 reine 664 la praliné dau à laSaint-Hubert reine 664 481 dla à la Saint-Hubert 481 shrimps (or other with with shellfish) 664 other shellfish) soft roes 664 with with softgarnish roes 664664 soup for for soup garnish 664 d la strasbourgeoise à481 la strastloUlrg(~Ol:se 481 481 stuffed stuffed 481 664 Varenne la la Varenne pantin 664 664 pantin 664 664-5 Pantler Pantler 664-5 panure 665 panure 665 papaya 665 papaya 665 papillote665 papillote 665 paprika 665 665 dressing 787 787665 paradise nuts

Parfait-Amour 665 parfaits 665

parfaits 665 iced 495 iced 495 665,665P Paris-Brest Paris-Brest 665, 665 Parisian gflteau Pari sian 416, 665 d la 665 parisienne, parisienne, la 416, 665 Parmentier,à AntoineParmentier, AntoineAugrrste 665 Auguste 665 Parmentier (method) 665 Parmentier dla 666 665 parmesane,(method) parmesane, parr 666 à la 666 parr 666950 parrot parrot 950 666,836 parrotfish parrot fish666666, 836 parsley 666 666 chopped cn01pp{:o 666 essence 363 essence 363 fried 666 fried 666 666 enpluches enrough-choPPed pluches 666 666 rough-chopped 666 sauce 821 sauce 821 666 parsnip parsnip 666666,666P partridge partridge 666, : jellied 666 ballottines ballottines: with various 666 various 666 with garnishes garnishes with cabbage666666-7 with cabbage 667666-7 casserole casserole 667 i la catalane (en à lapistache) catalane 667 (en pistache) 667 in chamberttn 667 in ila chambertin 667 667 chamPenoise à la champenoise 667

INDEX

INDEX

chartreuse 667 chartreuse 667 chaud-froid 66i chaud-froid 667 d Ia chipolata à lad chipolata 667667 la crapaudine 667 àla 667 d la crdme 667 à la crème 667 cr6pinette: BrillatSavarin Brillat667_g Savarin 667-8 ri la p6rigourdine àla 668

estouffade 66g estouffade 668 d la c6venole 66g à la cévenole 668 d la financidre 66g à la financière 668 d la forestidre 66g à galantine la forestière 668 66g galantine 668 grilled d la diable 66g la diable 668 grilled jellied àen daube 66g daube 668 jellied en d la mirepoix 66g àrilalamirepoix 668 moldave 66g à la moldave 668 Monselet 66g Monselet 668 mousse 668 mousse 668 mousselines 669 mousselines 668 d la normande 66g àpdtl la normande 668 668-9.673 668-9,673 ri la P6rigueux 669 IE)U'"'~'''' 669 roast",669 roast salmis 669 salmis 669 saut6ed with truffies sautéed with truffies 669 669 souffi6 669 soufflé 669 soup, velout6 979 soup, velouté 879 d la Souvarov 669 à la Souvarov 669 stuffed, in aspic 669 in aspic 669 terrine 669 terrine 669 timbale 669 timbale 669 trufred 669 tru ffied 669 d la vigneronne 669 669 partridge, American 22 pashka 669-70 Passe-Tout-Grain 670 passion fruit 670 670 fruit 670 pasta: fritters 479 pasta: frÎtters 479 as garnish 417 as garnish 417 Italian 514 ltalian 514 pasta frolla 670 pas ta frolla 670 paste: flour-and-water : flour-and-water 318 pasteurisation 670 .n"·... llnn 670 pastillage 670,670p pastillage pastilles 670670, 670p 670 coffee 670 coffee 670 jasmine 670 jasmine 670 officinal 647 officinal 647 orange-blossom 670_l orange-blossom 670-1 rose 670 rose 670 Pastis 671 Pastis 67 J pastis (cake) 671 pastis (cake) 67J pastries: bases for : bases for671_2 671-2 pastry: choux (cream pastry: choux (cream puff) 242 puff) 242 dough for pies 671 dough for pies 671 6chaud6 329 échaudé 329

flaky 3lGl8,3l6p, 3J6-18,316p, 3t7p 317p lard dough lard dough 671671 pudding pudding 318318 puff316-18,3 316-18,316p, puff 3l7p 317p shells 671671 shells raised case cooked raised case cooked blind671671 blind roughpuff puff318 318 semi-flaky318 318 semi-flaky short319 319 short straws,see seeallumettes allumettes straws, suetflaky suet flaky 3 318 J8 tart318 318 tart three-minute flakv three-minute (putr)318 318 (puff) Vienneseftaky flaky(putT) (puff) Viennese 318 318 pastry-cook'sshop shop 674p 674p crimper (pincer) Pfltry crimper pastry 671,672p 671,672p pastrycu cutter 671,672p pastry Uer 671, pastry wheel 671, 671,791, pastry wheel 781, 78lp 78lp patella 674 674 patella pAt6 moulds moulds 381 38lp pâté p p6tes 672. 672. See See also alio pie-s pies pâtés Amiens ducl< duck 672-3 672_3 Amiens with anchovy 481 4gl with d à I'andalouse J'andalouse 481 angler 29 29 dà la charcutidre charcutière 4gl 481 coq coq en en p6tb 274 274 duck, duck, Amiens Amiens 672-3 dà la la duxelles duxelles 481 481 fish fish 481 481 foie foie gras: gras: de de p6rigueux 382 382 truffied truffied 382_3,3g3p 382-3, 383p with wit htrufres truffles 673 673 game: .dàlalaSaintSaintHubert 482 482 with withstock stock481 481 au augastronome gastronome481 481 goose goose431 431 hare hare448 448 hazelgrouse 452 hazel 452 lamb's sweetbreads sweetbreadsd à I'ancienne l'ancÎenne634 634 lark lark549 549 en pantin 673 673 Pithiviers 673 673 d Ia à lalyonnaise lyonnaise4gl 481 meat meat481 481 d la à lamoscovite moscovite4gl_2 481-2 mutton mutton482 482 partridge 668-9,673 668-9,673 pheasant pheasant673,690, 673,690, 690p

poultry 673673 poultry with stock 4824g2 with stock quail 752 qlail 752 rabbit, 758 rabbit,wild wild 75g à la reine 482482 dlarcine Rouen Rouenduckling duckling673 673 à la Saint-Hubert 482 d la Saint-Hubert 4g2 481p sma!! small481, 481,481p snÎpe g5l snipeLucullus Lucullus851 sole sole861 861 wiwith th stock stock482 4g2 à dlalastrasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise 482 482 thrush thrush923 923 turkey turkey944 944 woodcock woodcock673-4, 6734, 999p, 999p,1000 1000 àdlalapérigourdine p6rigourdine 999-1000 999_1000 Patience Patiencedock dock674 674 pâtisserie p6tisserie674-5 674-5 patties (bouch6es) 138, l3g, 466,492p àd I'am6ricaine 4g3 àd la la bénédictine b6n6dicrine 483 4g3 àri la la bouquetiere bouquetidre 483 4g3 àd la la Clamart Clamart 483 4g3 crayfish crayfish 483 483 àd la la Crécy Cr6cy 483 483 àd la dieppoise dieppoise 483 4g3 Fanchonnette 466-7 466_7 à la financidre financière 4g3 483 d garni shed 482--3 garnished 482_3 julienne 4g3 lajulienne 483 dà la little Russi Russian 675, 675p little an 67 5, 67 5p with lobster, Jobster, spiny spiny with or shellfish shellfish lobster or lobster 483 483 Montglas 483 483 Montglas mushroom 603 603 mushroom musse! 483 483 mussel mutton 694 694 mutton oyster 483 483 oyster périgourdine4g3 483 dàlalap6rigourdine poultry483 483 poultry reine483,4g3p 483, 483p dàlalareine Saint-Hubert4g3 483 d àlalaSaint-Hubert Sévigné483 483 S6vign6 shellfish483 483 shellfish shrimp483 483 shrimp smallhot hot675 675 small 50 ft roes483 483 soft roes spinylobster lobster483 483 spiny truffles483 483 truffies paupiettes 675 675 pav6s 675 à l'écarlate675 675 chicl
1044 1044

fruit 676 fruit 676 hazelnut 676 hazelnut 676 (0( other pheasant (or other game) à la Saint· game) d la Saint_ Hubert 675 Hubert 675 praline 676 praline 676 fice: à la cévenole 676 rice: d la c6venole 676 à la créole 676 dlacrbole 676 with fruit 676 with fruit 676 à la normande 676 d la normande 676 Pompadour676 676

salmon d la Nantua 675

savoury savoury675-6 675-6 semoHna semolina676 676 sole (or other fish) 676 sole (or other fish) 676 sweet 676 sweet 676 pawpaw pawpaw665 665 paysanne, la 676 paysanne,à dla 676 95-6 Pays Pays Basque 95-6 678p peaches677-8, 677-8,678p Bourdaloue Bourdaloue 678 678 inin brandy 678 678 cardinal 497 cardinal 497 charlotte charlotte 205 205 chilled, chilled, with with raspberries 678 678 Colbert Colbert 678 678 678 compote 678 678 Cond6 678 coupe 494 coupe 494 croûte 678 crotte 679 crystallised 678 crystallised 678 flambé Brillat-Savarin flamb6 Brillat-Savarin 678 678 flambé au Kirsch flamb6 au Kirsch 678-9 678-9 flan or taft 679, 679p flanor tart 679,679p freezing 737

fritters

737 397

679 ininFrontignan 679

ice 492 à 679 d l'imp6ratrice 679 jam 516 jam 516 à la Madame Récamier d la Madame R6camier 679 679 marmalade 576 marmalade 576 Melba 497--8 Melba 497-8 pastejelly 520 pastejelly 520 Penelope 679 Penelope 679 679 pulp 679 wine à la in red wine d la bordelaise 679 bordelaise 679 with rice and meringue with rice and meringue 679 679 ice 492

ring (border)

d

la

Chantilly 679 soufflé 679,866 soufr6 679,866

stones, 556 stones,liqueur 556 Sultana Sultana 679 tart 918 tart 918

INDEX INDEX Prince Orloffin jellY 690 P6rignon, Dom 315 (Jubil6) 880 Balvet ~~n,,~~1r679-80 679-80 Prince688 Orloff in jelly 690 peacock Balvet (Jubilé) 880 pur6e 685 la i perigourdine, 880 Fontanges 688 peanuts peanuts680,680P 680, 680p 688 vue"u;::.,-" 880 roast periwinkle 997 880 Lamballe 688 L.a.:IIlU,<1l1\; 880 butter butter168 168 la Sainte-Alliance i roast Perry 685 880 LongchamP à la Sainte-Alliance 647 Perry 685 oiloil647 Longcham p 880 688 persane, dla 417 Marigny 688 688 paste persane, à la 417 Marigny880 880 paste680 680 salmis Persians: banquets 77 881 Saint-Cloud : beverage made salmis Saint-Cloud 881 Persians: pei-pods wine 688 pea-pods: made in red 688 Persico (Persicot) 556, pur6e 748 (i insauerkraut red wine 688 748 Persico from123 123 from with 685 royale with sauerkraut 690(à 685 pearl 682 682 royaleofof418 418 I'alsacienne) persillade 685 677 Saint-Germain l'alsacienne) 690 persillade 685 Saint-Gennain 677 pears pears680,680P 680, 680p 688 saut6ed 686 persimmon Saint soup, sautéed 688 688-9 persimmoncr6ole 686 686 soup,Pur6e Saint baked(en douillon, douillon, baked ilaSouvarov iced d la Germain à la Souvarov Germain 876,877P 876, 689 688-9 à la créole 686 686 cartouches)680 680 cartouches) supr6mes I'imp6ratrice i àiced 677 (sPlit) dried peas, suprémes 689 l'impératrice 686 peas, dried (split) 677 Bourdaloue680 680 Bourdaloue 689 trufled jam 686 880 potageFaubonne 770 truffled 689 (restaurant) 686 potage Faubonne 880 Brillat-Savarin 682 682 Brillat-savarin Philippe 686 stewed pur6e Philippe 770 purée 677,748 677,748 stewed 686 cardinal 682 682 690 cardinal phosphorus pestle 686 soup, Pur6e phosphorus 686 charlotte 205,682 205, 682 puréeof of 876, 876, charlotte 690-l690 Picardy 686 peteram 877P Picardy 690-1 con:1Dote 260,682 260, 682 peteram 686 69lP comPote gastronomicmaP petite marmite 686, peas, gastronomic map 691p petite marmite 686, 682, 682p sugar 677 677 peas, sugar Conde 682,682P 691 picarel 869-70 peccary 869-70 peccary 682 682 croûtes 682 682 cro0tes 691 piccalilli691 with chicken 870 pecten piccalilli 691 691 pecten 682 682 with chicken 870 flambé au au Kirsch Kirsch 682 682 flamb6 pickerel messine la d consomm6 pectin 682-3 pickerel691 691 682-3 consommé à la messine crème 682P 682p flan dàlala crdme flan pickles 872 pediments 691 468 872 pedllm<;nts 683,683P 683, fritters 397 397 fritters sour-sweet potage RaPhaEl 881 683 peeling sour-sweet 468 potage 881 peeling 683 Hélène 682 682 H6ldne 965 vegetables Petit Maure 770 pelamis vegetables Petit Maure pelamis 683 683 ice 492 ice 733 965 pickling 792 petit sal6 pickling 733 salé 792 iced : belle belle angevine angevine 496 496 pelican pelican 683 683 iced: picnic 691 petits fours 686,686P pel'meni 691 496 pel'meni 683 683 fours 686, filled 496 695-6 mont6es bidces petits-pieds 686 683 pelures 683 montéesd la 695-6 petits-pieds 686 Mourier 682 417,696 ;i6montaise, Pe-tsai 240,240P 683 pemmican .... à""',...,~.,.. ~~ à laalso 696 681P, Pe-tsai 240, 240p pemmican 683 ià I'imP6ratrice 681p, pies 691-2 . See PAt6s 397 nonne de Pets 683 penide 683 682 piesapple, 691-2. See also 695 Pets de nonne 397 pénide 682 d I'anglaise 686 Pfannkuchen 683 pennyroyal ~~r'~" .. ",,'nl 683 576 marmalade 576 Pfannkuchen 686 apple, beef i àlal'anglaise Parisienne 693 pheasant 686-7,687P 556 liqueur 556 peppermint : liqueur Melba peI)pe~rrnlmt: pheasan t 686--7, 687 beef à la parisienne 693 Melba 498 99 beefsteak d I'alsacienne 683,684P peppers 683, beefsteak 99 peppers 684p à l'alsacienne 687 520 paste jelly 520 pastejellY 692,693 blackbird d I'am6ricaine 687 736 freezing 736 blackbird 692,693 d wi th rice à l'américaine 687 689 rice and and meringue with calves'sweetbreads aspic d I'ancienne (red) 683 pimento 682 aspic à l'ancienne 689 calves' sweetbreads à pimento (red) 683 682 693 I'ancienne ballottine in jellY 689 683-4 paste 683-4 (border) ChantillY ring l'ancienne 693 paste ballottine in jelly 689 ring (border) 694 chicken 687 i la boh6mienne 813 sauce 813 chicken 694 278 682 à la bohémienne687687 sauce 682 Russian with cabbage 467 gteen 467 smallgreen small with 687 Russian 278 682 with semolina 682 with semolina 695 cold 687 casserole (sweet pimentos) sweet(sweet Pimentos) cold 695 sweet casserole soufflé 866 682,866 soufl6 682, 332,334,692 eel with mushrooms 687 467,684 eel aux 332,334,692 with mushrooms 687 467,684 tart 918 682,918 tart 682, fines herbes, en chartreuse 687 684 olives black with aux fines dherbes, with black olives 684 en chartreuse 687 689P tartlets 19 tartlets9919 la mirePoix called 689' chaud-froid 170 butter170 called chaud-froid 689, 689p à la ml:repOIX timbale: butter timbale: d'Aremberg 332 687 cocotte en 386 fondue 386 en cocotte 687 332 fondue 682 682 d la m6nagdre 334 with cream 687 684 batter684 friedininbatter 926 with cream 687 à ilalaménagère 334 fried Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savatin926 Nantua 332 687 croquettes 684 gratin684 augratin à with la Nantua croquettes 687 332 au peas 676p 676,676P peas676, 332,334 truffies cutlets 687 355 omelette355 with692.695 truffles 332, 334 cutlets 687jellY omelette boiled 676-7 boiled676--7 fish 689 daube in 355 SPanish 677 fish coulibiac 692,695 277-8 daube injelly jellY 689 355 àilalabonne femme677 bonnefemme 689 galantine in 684 d I'orientale684 coulibiac 277-8 ininbutter 5'''''11'.11J''- in jelly 689 677 butter677 trufre gras and foie g6orgienne 687-8 dla russienne la dr foie694 gras and truffle Petite à àdlalacrème 677 la peti te russienne 687-8 la géorgienne crdme 677 grilled 688 684 694 grilled 688 684 croûtes Clamart croittesà dlalaClamart game 692-3 hanging 365 684 la d gameoreiller 692-3de la belle 476 Pi6montaise PlelmOlHalse 684 "'Ul&l15 365 476 d la languedocienne oreiller de la654 belle with Pur6e 748 677 fennel677 withfennel Aurore 688 ragofit d I'esPagnole Aurore 654694 à ilalafermière 677 fermidre677 fowl guinea 688 d la normande 684 694 à la normande 688 à dlalafrançaise 677 frangaise677 446,695 ham fowl pdtb 673,690,690P 684, cr6ole la i salad 673,690, ham 446,695 salad à la créole 684, 736 freezing 736 692 hare pav6 d la Saint791 hare 692ila with 791 à la Saint677 ham677 withham lamb: Hubert675675 684-5, turque la i lamb: à la Hubert à la turque 684-5, with lcttuce 677 677 with lettuce 543 languedocienne 688 i la P6rigueux688 684P lan;guelQOClelllle 543 684p à la with 677 mint677 withmint la d P6rigourdine pie 693 685 vinaigrette685 d la pie 693 patties à la Clamart à la vinaigrette Clamart d la patties 693 truffies 688 with 685,685P perch 685, 685p 483 with truffles 688 483 lamb's sweetbreads 693 690 potted percolator685685 potted 690 lamb's sweetbreads 693 paysanne 677 percolator à la 677 d la i la bordelaise PaYsanne lamPreY preserved with foie gras 685,685P HUYlnr,3\1 à la bordelaise perdrix potage: ambassadrice perdrix 685, 685p with foie gras ambassadrice potage: 692 690 andjellY 769-70 Lathuile Pdre 879879 andjelly 690 Père Lathuile 769-70 ,",,,«HLHl

1045 1045

INDEX

INDEX

lark 692-3 Madeira 570 meat 693-4

mince 591,695

mutton

69i4

pastrydough for 671 pheasant 693

with truffies 6gg pigeon 69+-5 d la languedocienne

695

with mushrooms and truffies 695 pork ri la hongroise 694 poultry 694-s quail with trufres 693 rabbit with truffies 693

rhubarb 772 roebuck 780

rook

780

Rouen duckling 694

salmon 692,796 en pantin 692 ri Ia russe 692

shellfish 692 sole 692 spiny lobster 692 sweet 695

thrush 693,923 d I'ardennaise 693 d la c6venole 693

turbot 692 veal, fillet 694 vealandham 695 woodcock, with

truffes 693, 1000 pig. See also pork: bladder 636

blood 713 brains, see brains cheek, smoked 636 ears 636

boiled 636 braised, with various garnishes 636 au gratin 636 grilled 636 ri la hongroise 636 Sainte-Menehould

636

stuffed 636 feet (trotters) 636 cr6pinettes Sainte-

Menehould 288 Sainte-Menehould 636

trufred 636-7 head: potted d la pistache 716 potted, with truffies 7t6_17

intestine 637 intestine 637 kidney, kidneys kidney, seesee kidneys leg, stuffed 717,717p stuffed 717, 717p lights637 637 blanquette637 637 blanquette d la bonnefemme femme à la bonne 637 637 civet(in(inred redwÎne) wine) enen civet 637 637 ri la m6nagdre 637 d la provengale 637

ragoit

637

liver,see seeliver liver liver, snout637 637 snout spleen637 637 stomach637 637 stomach tails637 637 tails stuffed:braised, braised,with with stuffed: variousgarnishes garnishes various 637 637 grilled 637 637 tongue 637_8,639p tongue 637-8, 638p . pig, suckling: stuffed stuffedl à

l'occitane 721 1

pig wild:

leg with figs

374

pigeons 696, 696,696p 696p ballottines 74 74 ballottines casserole 696 696 casserole la catalane catalane 696 696 àd la

en cocotte cocotte 696 en cold 696 696 cold compote compote 696 dà la la crapaudine crapaudine 696 dà la la diable diable 696 696 fried fricd 696 696 grilled d la Saint-

Germain 696 dà la la Maitre-Jacques Maître-Jacques

696 696 dàla laminute minute 696-7 69&-7 mousse mousse 696 696 mousselines mousselines 697 697

with wi tholives 01 ives 697 697 en enpapillote papillote 697 697 with withpeas 697 697 pie 694-5

d la languedocienne

69s

with withmushrooms mushroomsand and truffies truffies695 695 d àlalaRichelieu Richelieu697 697

auau bleu 698 bleu 698 braised fillets with braised fillets with various sauces and various sauces and garnishes698 698 cutlets cutlets698 698 forcemeat forcemeatà la d la lyonnaise lyonnaise389 389 loaf loaf558 558 mousselines mousselines698 699 quenelles698-9 698-9 à rilalacrème crdme699 699 enencroustade croustade 698p 69gp à dlalaflorentine florentine699 69i àla d la lyonnaise699, 699, 699p 699p mousseline mousseline 754 754 p princesse . . . . ..., ....,,,.., .... 754, 754p 754,754p roast roastàdlalamode modede de Bugey699 699 DlKi:::~D(~rCn pike-perch 699 699 pilaf (pilau, pilaw), pilaw), nce rice 699 699 pilchard pilchard 700 700 pilot-fish pilot-fish 700 700 pimento,.ree pimento, see peppers peppers pincer 700 pincer 700 pineapple 700 pineapple 700 atlereaux attereaux 61 6l àd la la bavaroise bavaroise 700 700 Bourdaloue 700 700 compote 260, 700 260,700 Condé Cond6 700 700 fntters 397,700 fritters 397,700 Carême 700 700 dà la Car6me ice 492 ice ice cream cream 700-l 700-1 ice iced 496,496p 496, 496p iced la bourbonnaise bourbonnaÎse rià la 496 496 496, ri la Chantilly 496, 497p àla dlacrlole 496 parisienne 496 496 dàlalaparisienne l'impératrice 701 701 dàI'imp6ratrice jam jam 516 516 juice juice521 521 manqué701 701 manqu6 Norwegianomelette omelette Norwegian with357 357 with pancakes p .."', ....... "''"'"70i 701 701 d la pi6montaise 701

with rice 701 ricering ringd àlalacr6ole créole rice 136 t36

roast wast697 697

salmis salmis697 697 stewed stewedwith withblood blood697 697 Villeroi Villeroi697 697 woodpigeon 1002 1002

pigeon, carrier pigeon, carrier189 189 piglet piglet719 719 pike pike697,697p 697, 697p auau beurre blanc beurre blanc697_g 697-8

withrice riccand andmeringue meringue with 701 70r sauce827 827 sauce savarin701 701 savarin surprise 701701 taft701,918 70 l, 918 tart à la royale701 701 d la royale

1046 1046

with vanilla ice cream with vanilla ice cream 701701 pine kernel : sauce à pine kernel: sauce d ri I'italienne talienne 814 814 pine seed (nut) 701 pine seed (nut) 701 piperade piperade702 702 pipit pipit703 703 pipkin pipkin703 703 piroghi piroghi(pirozhki) (pirozhki)483, 483, 703 703 carrot carrot703 703 Caucasian Caucasian703 703 cream cheese 703 creamcheese 703 fish fish703 703 game game703 703 Moscow Moscow703 703 Polish Polish703 703 with 703 withtruffles truffies 703 with varÎous with various vegetable vegetable fiUings fillings 703 703 visiga 703 703

pirozhki, see piroghi Pislicine 217 pissaladidre 703 pissalat 467 pistache, en 703

pistachio

703

Bavarian with Bavarian cream cream with 89 89 butter butter 169 169 caramels caramels 184 184 Lce cream 492-3 icecream

492-3

704 pistou 704 Pithiviers Pithiviers gdteau 704 plaice 604-5, 604-5,704p boiled, with boiled, with various sauces 705 sauces 705

la bonne bonne femme 705 dà la femme 705

705 Dugl6r6 705

704p filleting 704p fried fried 705

à l'indienne 705

d l'indienne 705 àla 705 ri la nigoise 705

plaisir 705 705 plaisir

plantain tree 705 plantain tree 705

705 plastron 705

plates 705-7, plates 705-7,7A6p

plinths: tiered plinths: tiered 9234. 924p wooden 1002 wooden 1002 707,707p plover 707,707p eggs464 464 eggs pluches 707 pluches 707 707 pluck 707 cake J 79 plum cake 179 plums 707, 707p plums 707,707p Bourdaloue 707 Bourdaloue 707 in brandy 707 in brandy 707 candied 708 candied 708 charlotte 205 charlotte 205 compote 260 compote 260

INDEX INDEX Cond6 Condé708 708 flamb6 Lorraine708 708 flambéLorraine freezing freezing737 737 fritters fritters397 397 d àI'agenaise !'agenaise397 397 greengage greengage435 435 pastejelly 519 519 tart i I'allemande 917

492,708 ice492,708 ice iced icedmousse mousse708 708

jam jam516,708 516,708

marmalade marmalade 576 576 mirabellePlums plums 592 592 mirabelle custard custardring ringdàlala vosgienne vos:menne 135-6 135-6 flan flan 592 592 pastejelly paste jelly 519-20 519-20 Lorraine 708 708 souffléLorraine soufl6 tart 918,918p 918, 918p tart tartlets 919 919 tartlets poaching poaching 297,708 297, 708 pochard pochard 708 708 pochouse pochouse 708 708 de de Verdun-sur-leVerdun-sur-leDoubs 708 pod 708 poOlage poêlage 708 poOlon 708,708P poêlon 708, 708p 708-9 Romans 708-9 pogne de Romans 709 t'Ol:SSOI11er 709 Poissonier 709-10 Poitou Poitou 709-10 709P maP 709p gastronomic map gas:tronOlmlc poivrade 710 508-9 Poland: Poland: cookerY 508-9 217,710 polenta polenta 217,710 la attereaux attereaux àdla 60 pi6montaise 60 melnorltal:se

fritters

397

830 Polnischewürste Polnischewiirste 830 710 polypodium polypodium 710 polyporus polyporus710 710 710 pomegranate pomegranate710 pomfret 710 pomfret710 770 Pin770 Pomme PommededePin pompe 710 pompe710 483 pomponnettes pomponnettes483 710 pont-neuf pont-neuf710 pope 710p 7lG-ll,7l0P pope710-11, poppy 711 poppy711 648 poppy-seed poppy-seedoiloil648 7l I porcelain711 porcu r:llne 711 7ll porcupine also Pig pork See a/so See pork711. 71 l. andouilles andouilles71711-13 712 Nancy NancY712 braised, ballottine: ballottine:braised, garnishes 7373 with garnishes with in injellY jelly 7373 brawn 456,716 456,716 brawn 716-17 with truffles 716-17 truffies with ...,VA',","A ... ' "

boiled il'anglaise boiled à l'anglaise 720 720 7ll-13,720 sausages 713 carbonades carbonades 713 sausages 711-13, 720 shoulder 721 cassoulet cassouletdede shoulder 721 720 skin 1934 CastelnaudarY skin 720 Castelnaudary 193-4 721 cold slices, chine chine713-14 713-14 slices, cold 721 721 stew chops: stew chops:d àI'alsacienne l'alsacienne green figs 374 with721 7t4 714 with green2024,374 butcherY pork 714 d àI'ardennaise l'ardennaise 714 pork butchery 202p,203P 714 ilabaYonnaise 202p, 721 àla 714 porker various braised, porker 721 braised,with wÏth various porpoise 721 garnishes porpoise 721-2,721P 721 garnishes714 714 porridge 714-15, charcutidre porridge 721-2, charcutière 714-15, arrowroot 47-8 7r5p 71 arrowroot 722 ntllas47-8 B6arn garnish fried, with with Béarn millas 722722 maize(las Pous) 715 maize (lasmillas 722 722 715 P6rigord 715 dàla lagasconne gasconne 715 722 722 poringer grilled 715,715P porringer 722 715, Port (wine) 722 ilamilanaise la milanaise 715 Port (wine) 722 sauce 814 715-16 Pilleverjus Pilleverj us 715-16 sauce 814 ' with Robert sauce Porte-Maillot 415 Porte-Maillot with Robert sauce 417 dla415 portugaise, 716 à la 417 716 portugaise, 722 posset 716 vosgienne dà la la vosgienne 716 posset ale 8 722 cr6pinettes ale 8 crèJJlnettes 716 716 potage: ambassadeurs 716,716P Cinderella : ambassadeurs '-'1"'"''-'1'-'''0. 716, 716p 879 cuts cuts 712P,713P'714P 713p,714p Apicius 879 359 6minc6s émincés 359 Apicius 879 d'Artois 879 716 fat fat 716 d'Artois 879-80 Bagration879 716 (tenderloin) fillet (tenderloin) 716 fillet Bagration Balvet 880879-80 387 fine forcemeat: forcemeat: fine 387 Balvet 880 bonne-femme 880 387 ordinary 387 ordinary bonne-femme 880 Camaro ila 388 veal with with veal 388 Camaro à la 884 br6silienne 716 brésilienne 884 ffricadelles ricadeHes 716 Cam6rani 880 716 gelatine 716 Camérani 880 cultivateur 880 716 hand 716 cultivateur 880 Faubonne 880 450,716 hash hash 450, 716 Faubonne880 880 fermidre 717 braised leg: leg: braised 717 fermière 880 880,880P Fontages 717,717P roast717, roast 717p Fontages 880, 880p 880 gentilhomme 717 loin717 loin gentilhomme 880 880 GerminY 717-18 I'alsacienne717-18 àdl'alsacienne Germiny 880 hochePot d la flamande femme bonnefemme àilalabonne hochepot à la flamande 88s 718 885 jambe de bois 718 la i 718 boulangdre la d à la boulangère 718 à lajambe de bois 868p,868 718 chiPolara la i 868p,868 à la chipolata 718 Jubil6 880 718 cold718 Jubilé 880: d I'allemande cold julienne cabbage green with : à l'allemande with green '-'au'ual'~'"' 880 sProuts Brusselssprouts 880 ororBrussels d la c6venole 880 718 718 à DarblaY la cévenole 880880 718 dlalimousine à la limousine 718 Darblay 880 880 Lamballe cabbageTlS redcabbage withred 718 with Lamballe 880 880 LongchamP 718,718P roast718, roast Longchamp880 880 MarignY 565 lonzo565 lonzo Marigny 880881 paysanne 628,636-8' offal628, paysanne 881 887 offal Rahm-suPPe 718-19 Kalnm-SUInne 887 718-19 Rapha6l 881 pie 719,719P 7J9,719p Raphaël 1 Saint-Cloud 881 694 d la hongroise à la 694 Saint-Cloud 881 881 sant6 with PineaPPle 701701 with pineapple santé 881 881 Solf6rino 262 preserved262 nrPN>r'\l"t1 Solférino 881 velours 881 777 rillauds 777 velours 881 Xavier 881 777 rillettes rillettes 777 Xavier 881 polash 722 720 salt salt 720 722

breast breast713 713 curry 300-1 Bringelle I-/.r.ncr"llp curry 300-1

1Q47

1Q47

potatoes 722-3 723 potatoes 722-3 d I'anglaise à l'anglaise 34,723 723 Anna for 34P Anna 34,723 casserole casserole for 34,723 Annette 7234 Annette 723 bacon34, with with bacon 723-4723 in the oven baked baked in the 724 oven 723 basil with wi th basil 724724 basquaise dla 724 la berrichonne724 d àla àla (n6gresses, 724 black black pommes de pommes 724 Madagascar) Madagascar) 724 724 boiled boiled 724 724 borders 724 borders 724 dlaboulangixe àla 724 butter 724 in in butter 724 cakes cakes 724 T24 chdteat château 724 724 chatouillafi chatouillard ashes in the 724 cooked cooked in the ashes 723 723 724 coPeatx Crainquebille 724 d la Cr6cY (d la VichY) 724

crisps 726 crisps 726 291,291P, croquettes crolquettes 291, 291p, 475,725,725p 725, 725 chevreuse chevreuse dlaflorentine 475 àilalYonna\se la florentine 475 725 àd la 725 nigoise 475 la lyonnaise àwith la niçoise 475 Parmesan with Parmesa n 475,725 cheese 475, 725 la P6rigourdine dcheese à la périgourdine 72s 725 725 croustades croustades 724 curlY crisPs725 curly 724 DauPhine 725 Dauphine for 593 mixture 725 for 593 725, la dauPhinoise dmixture à la dauphinoise 725, 725P 725p Duchess 7254 Duchess mixture 321, duchesse725-6 duchesse mixture 321, s93 593 with fennel 726 with fenne! 726 726 fondantes fondantes fied 726726 friedpont-neuf 726 726 pont-neuf 726 395,726P fritters fritters 395, 404 galettes galettes 404 406 game chiPs game 406(d la gastronome gastronome (à la Cussy) 726 Cussy) 726 726 Georgette ,",pr\,rcr,·U" 726 gnocchi 428 i la dauPhinoise, gratin 428 as garnish 414 gratin d la savoYarde 414

INDEX INDEX

grilled

726_7

grilled 726-7 hashed brown 727 hashed brown jse 727 d la hongro 727 à !aashongroise 727 hors d,oeuvre 467 d'oeuvre 467 as hors i la landaise 727 à laLithuanian landaise 727 soup gg6 Lithuanian souppotato 886 little duchess liulecroustades duchess potata 292,292p croustades loaves 727292, 292p loaves 727 727 Lorette Lorette 727 jse d Ia lyonna 727 à la lvonn:llse macaire 727 727 macaÎre 727 d'h6tel d la maitre 727 à la maître (sticks) d'hôtel 727 matches 727 matches (sticks) withmint 727 727 with mint 727 727 Mont-Dore Mont-Dore mousseline 727 727 mousseline au naturel 727 (nature) au 727,727p naturel (nature) 727,727p nests 622,727 ncsts 622, 623,727_g 727 noisette noisette 623, spoons for727-8 shaping spoons 727p for shaping d la normande 72g àomelette: la normande 728 parmentier omelette: Parmentier 354 354 d la paysanne 354 àd la la paysanne savoyarde354 355 à la savoyarde 355 panada 663 pancakes663 729 pancakes 728 paniers 664 paniers 664 d la parisienne 729. à728p la parisienne 728, 728p Parmentier 72g Parmentier parsley 728 728 728 72g dparsley la paysanne à la paysanne potage: julienne728 potage: Darblay 880 sant6 881 purile 728 ri la crdme 72g à la crème729 728 au gratin quenelles: d 728 I'alsacienne 72g als::lClenne 728 parmesan with with Parmesan cheese 72g 728 ring cheese 135, l35p roast 728 135p roast Saint-Flour 72g Saint-Flour 728 salad 789p salad 789p salpicon 801 salpicon 801 72g d la sarladaise à la sarladaise 728 saut6ed 728 sautéed 728 d la provengale à la provençale 728_9 728-9 i la s_avoyarde 729, g33 à la savoyarde 729,833 soufr6 864 soufflé 864 g64 with cheese cheese g64 864 d lawith hongroise 864 soufr6àla potatoes soufflé 729 (puffed)

soup, pur6e soup, Parmentier Parmentier 877,g77,g77p steamed steamed 729729 in stock 729729 in stock straw 729,902 straw 729,902 stuffed stuffed 483,483,729,729p 729, 729p la cancalaise à lad cancalaise

hash 450-1 freezing 737 hash 450_l freezing interlarding Prunier 770 737 interlardin297 g 297 Prunier 770 liver, see liver puchero 740 liver, see liver puchero 740 58\5gl puddings: almond, mayonnaise puddings: almond. Monselet, scallop shells 741 Monselet, scallop shells Eng!ish English of of 485485 American 741 741 American offal 647647 apple, English741 741 otral apple, 729_30 741 pâté 673673 beefsteakEnglish 740 729-30 pdt6 beefsteak 740 la cantalienne stock 482 and kidney 740 with à lad cantalienne 730730 with stock 4g2 and kidney 740 483493 and oyster 740 à ladlachasseur chasseur 730730 patties and oyster 740 with cheese 730. biscuit à la reine 741 with cheese 730, d la reine 493,4g3p biscuit 730p Brazilian 741 741 730p (wings) 701701 pinions (wings) Brazilian 741 ri la duxelles 730 bread: French 741 princesse, scaHop shells à la duxelles 730 pn^ncesse, scallop shells bread: French 741 fermidre730 730 German 741 ofof485 fermière 485 German 741 d la florentine730 730 and fruit, German pur6es746 à la florentine 746 and fruit, German ii la hongroise 730 741, 742p à la hongroise 730 Ro,i5i6,scallop scallopshells shells 741,742p Maintenon730 730 ofof485 Maintenon with red wine 741 485 with red wine 741 d la m6nagdre730 730 scallop cabinet 741 àla scallopshells shellsofof485 4g5 cabinet 741 pnncesse 730 wÎth iced 495 withsmoked smokedoror capucine, iced 741 dlaprovengale 730 ..... hl~c:tln"f soufflé 495 pickled pickledlongue tongue chestnut souffi6 741 with sausage meat 485-6 chicken à la Richelieu 485_6 chicken d la Richelieu 730 poupelin731 740 731 740 soubise730 730 poupeton731 chocolate 742 soubise poupeton 731 chocolate 742 ri Ia Vichy 730 poussoir 731 à la Vichy 730 chocolate rice 743 731 chocolate Yorkshire style style 730 730 poutine 732 poutine Christmas rice 743 743 Yorkshire 732 Christmas 743 subrics 730,905 praire732 subrics 730,905 Clermont 742 732 Clermont 742 la toulousaine toulousaine 730 730 praline 732 àdla Diplomat 742 732 Diplomat Vitelotte 970 ice Vitelotte 970 cream 493 with fruit742 742 icecream 493 withfruit Voisin 730 742742p 730 VoisÎn pannequets pannequets 664 fruÎt 505p, 742, 664 fruit pot-au-feu 722,97A 505p ,742,742p pavé pav6 676 pot-au-feu 870 740-1 676 game 740-l g70 732p praline 732, 495 àri I'albigeoise 870 732,732p iced 495 g70 b6arnaise 870 praliner 732 àd la la béarnaise praliner lemon, tangerine or 732 Iemon, tangerine or consomm6 prawns: consommé crofite croû te au orange soufflé 742 prawns: Dublin Dublin Bav orange pot pot 871 871 macaronisouffi|742 742 32{}.l 320-1 macaroni 742 g7l ià I'ancienne l'ancienne 87 t marrow 742 Dublin Bay:: soup, soup, Dublin marrow d la languedocienne 742 à la languedocienne velouté 879 mould for velout6 mould for 74lp 870 870 mutton 741 forcemeat 3g9 389 forcemeat mutton 741 Pot de vin 967 Pot de vin 967 Nesselrode 742-3 581 mayonnaise 5gl Nesselrode 742_3 pot6e 730 730 plum 743 rougail 781 781 rougail plum 743 Lorraine presentation Lorraine 730 730 pumpkin 743 presentationbase base 910 910 pumpkin pot-roasting 297,73C_1 presentation 297,730-1 rice 743 743 presentationofofdishes dishes nce 743 d la Matignon 731 à la Matignon 731 English 743 732 732 poule-au-pot g70 English 743 preservation ofoffood poule-au-pot 870 mould 775 food rnould 775 poulette, dla 731 poulette, à la 731 780 732-7 732_7 roly-poly 780 poultry. See also chicken. poultry. See a/sa chieken, press sago 743 press734 734 sago 743 etc. pressurecooker etc. savoury 740-1 pressure cooker64_5. 64-5, savoury 740_l d I'allemande, scallop Saxon 743-4 à l'allemande, scallop 734, 737 64p,734,737 Saxon shells of 485 priltre 737 737 Scotch7434 744 sheHs of 485 Scotch 744 braising semolina 744,838 Pr9g9l Pretzel737-8,738p 737-8, 738p braising296 296 semolina 744,939 cold: prickly prickly pear73g, 738, 738p English 838 cold:fritots fritots47g 478 pear Tigp English 838 croquettes 475 prrncesse, dla 475 tlamiri 377 àJa417,73g 417,738 flamiri 6minc6s 359 377 printanier 359 with stewed fruit printanier417,73g 417, 738 with stewed fruit entrecuisse 361 printaniere, d"la entrecuisse 361 àla417,738 417, 73g 838p fillets suet 744 Procope 770,770p fillets374374 770,770p suet roll, English 744 forcemeat 386 profiteroles sweet 741--4 forcemeat 386 profiteroles 738, 738p 73g,73gp sweet (dessert) 7414 forfor pdt6s and potted sweet potato 744,911 and potled provengale, itla àla417,738 417, 73g sweetpotato preparations 397387 "" .. r'VI",n,'1" 738-40 744744.911 Provence preparations 73840 tapioca 744 freezing 734734 freezing vermicelli 744 gastronomic gastronomie map 739p map 739p vermicelli 744 garnishes 409 prunes Yorkshire 1003 garnishes 409 prunes 740740 Yorkshire 1003 grenadins 436 puffer 744 grenadins 436 compote 260.740 compote 260,740 puffer 744 hamburger steak M7 hamburger steak 447 puits d'amour 744 wine withwith wine 740740 puits d'amour 744 10481048

INDEX INDEX pluJrp 744

Pulque 744 pumpkin pumpkin744,744P,745P 744, 744p, 745p brddes hrèdes 148 148 au augratin gratin744-5 744-5 gratin, gratin,with withrice rice745 745

jam jam745 745

aujus au jus 745 745 pudding pudding 743 743 purbe purée 745 745 salad salad 745 745 souffi6 soufflé 745 745 soup, soup,pur6e of of 877-8 877-8 sweet-sour sweet-sourdà I'allemande l'allemande 745 745 punch punch 745 745 iced iced 745 745 dà la la romaine romaine 495 495 kirsch kirsch 745 745 marquise marquise 745 745 rum rllm 745 745 punch punch cake I79 179 pur6e-presser ouree-Iore~:;ser 748 748 pur6es purées 745 745 anchovy 745 745 artichokes 746 55,746-7 asparagus 55,746-7 63,747 aubergine 63, 747 beans 92,93,9+5,747 93,94-5,747 beef 746 beetroot 747 746 brains 746 brains sProuts !156 Brussels sprouts 56 746 liver 746 calf's liver calrs 185 cardoons cardoo os 185 L90,747 carrot 190, carrot 747 190 cream 190 with cream with 190 rice 190 with rice with 196,747 cauliflower 196,747 cauliflower 197 celeriac 197 celeriac 197-8,747 celery 197-8,747 218,747 chestnut 218, chestnut 747 229,746 chicken 229,746 chîcken 418 of 418 royale of 748 chick-peas748 chick-peas 239 chicory239 chîcory 295,747 cucumber295,747 cucumber 360 endive360 endive and crustaceansand fish,crustaœans fish, 745-6 molluscs745-6 molluscs gras746 746 foiegras fOÎe 382-3,383P trufled382--3, truffied garne746 746 game royaleofof4!418 royale 8 408,747 garlic408, garlic 747 745 herring745 herring artichoke Jerusalemartir.hoke Jerusalem 520,747 520. 747 lentil747 1entîl 747 554.747 lettuce554, lettuce 747 gourd747 747 marrowororgourd marrow

d la

meat meat746 746 mushrooms mushrooms747-8 747-8 mussel musse!746 746 onion onionsoubise soubise748 748

oysters oysters746 746

peas peas748 748 royale royaleof of418 418 Saint-Germain Saint-Germain 667 667 peas, peas,split split 677,748 677,748 pheasant pheasant 688 688 potato potato 728 728 dàlalacrdme crème 728 728 au augratin 728 728 poultry poultry 746 746 pumpkin pumpkin 745 745 salmon salmon 746 746 sardine sardine 468 468 sea-urchin sea-urchin 746,837 746,837 shrimp shrimp 746 746 sole sole 862 862 sorrel sorrel 863 863 spinach spinach 748 748 straining straining 901-2 901-2 sweetbread sweetbread 746 746 sweet sweet pePPer pepper 748 748 sweet sweet Potato potato 911 911 748,916 tarragon tarragon 748,9 J6 418 of roYale tomato, tomato, of 418 748,938 truffie truffie 748, 746 lunny 746 tunny 945 turnip 945 turnip 746 veal vea! 746 746-8 vegetables 746-8 975 watercress watercress 975 1000 woodcock 1000 woodcock 748 purslane purslane 748 878 of 878 soup, pur6e of soup, 740P Vaucluse Puyr6mas, Puyrémas, Vaucluse 740p

a quail749,749P quail 749, 749p 749 cases749 inincases 749 I'italienne749 à dJ'italienne 749 Lamballe la i à la Lamballe 749 749 d la mirePoix749 àla 749 Mont-BrY749 Mont-Bry

P6rigueux 749

la strasbourgeoise i àla àla 749-50 749-50 dlavigneronne 750, à la vigneronne 750. 750p 750p casserole 750 casserole 750 d la bonne femme à la bonne femme 750 750 with grapes 750 with grapes 750 chaud-froid 750 chaud-froid 750 en chemise 750 en chemÎse 750 with cherries 750 wi th cherries 750 en cocotte 750 en cocotte 750 cold 751 cold 751 confit 750 confit 750 devilled 751 devilled 75\ d la financidre 751 à la financière 751 with rice border 751 with ricc border 751 d la gourmande 751 à la gourmande 751 grilled: d la duchesse grilled: à la duchesse 75r 751 d l'indienne 751 à l'indienne 751 jellied d la jellied à !a perigourdine 751 751 dlalimousine 751 à la 751 Lucullus 751 Lucullus 751 minute 751 751 iàminute la Monselet 751 la Monselet 751 mousse" cold 751-2 mousse, cold 751-2 in a nest 752,752p in a nest 752, 752p pifi6 752 pâté 752 with peas 752 with peas 752 petit-duc 752 petit-duc 752 pie with trufles 693 pie with truffles 693 with rice 752 with rice 752 with risotto 752 with risotto 752 d la pi6montaise 752 à la piémontaise 752 roast 752 roast 752 d la romaine 752-3 à la romaine 752- 3 Saint-Mars 753 Saint-Mars 753 753 àdlaSouvarov la Souvarov 753 d la Talleyrand 753 à la TaHeyrand 753 tinned, in jellY 753 tînned, injelly 753 quatre-quarts 753 quatre-quarts 753 quenelles 754 754 carp 189 carp 189 chicken 754 chicken 754 foie gras 754 foie gras 754 forcemeat 387-8 forcemeal 387-8 game 754 game 754 as garnish 417 as garnish 417 meat 754 meat 754 pike mousseline 754 pike mousseline 754 pike princesse 754, pike 754. 754P 754p salmon 796 salmon 796 sole 862 sole 862 veal 754 veal 754 quinche 754 quinche 754 with cheese 754 with cheese 754 with ham 754 with ham 754 1049

1049

Lorraine 483,754,

Lorraine 483, 754, 754P

754p 754-5 quillet

quillet 755,755P 754--5 quince

quince 755,205 charlotte charlotte755 205 compote compote 755 277 cotignac cotignac 277 jelly 517,755 517,755 jelly 556 liqueur liqueur 556 576,755 marmalade marmalade 576,755 755 paste paste 755 520 pastejellY paste jelly 520

R rabbit

756

rabbit 756194P bones bones 194p 757P cleaning deaning 756 Coquibus757p Coquibus 756 cutting 757P,758P cutting 756 758p fricass6e757p, fricassée 756 pie, with trufles 693 truffies rum and 693 prunes withwith with prunes and rum 782 782 with currY saut6ed: sauù:ed: with curry 756 756 with paPrika 756, with 758paprika 756, 758 756P skinning skinning 758 wild756p rabbit, rabbit. wild 758 758 blanquette hlanquetle 758 758 boiled, d I'anglaise boiled, à l'anglaise 758 758 chasseur chasseur 758 758 en gibelotte pit6 758 758

potted

758

potted 758 roast 758 roast 758 saut6ed: i la minute 758 saUléed: à la minute 758 758 with mushrooms with mushrooms 758 758 rabotte rabotte 758758 racahout racahoul 758 raclette 758 raclette 758 racoon758 racoon 758758 radishes radishes 758 black758 black 758d'oeuvre 467 as hors aspink: hors d'oeuvre 467 in cream 758 pink: in cream 758

INDEX INDEX glazed 7Sg-9

glazed 758-9 poulette 759 poulette in stock759 759 ragotts in stock 759 425,759 ragoû 425,759 759 i lats banquidre à beatilles la banquière 97 759 beef lll, béati!les 97 lllp 111,llIp beef camel, with tomato camel, with sauce 182tomato sauce 182 d la cancalaise 759 à celeriac la cancalaise 759 759 celeriac 759 759 d la c6venole àchipolata la cévenole759 759 chipolata 759 and cocks'combs cocks' corn759 bs and kidneys kidneys tails 759 ri la crayfish crayfish Nantuatails 285à la dNantua 285 759 la financiere àgiblets la financière 759 425 goose 431 giblets 425 goose d la 431 bonne femme à la bonne femme 431 431 i I'anglaise 543 lamb: lamb: l'anglaise 543 d la àbonne femme à 543 la bonne femme 543 d la cardinal lobster lobster 759 à la cardinal d759 la marinidre 760 àmolluscs la marinière 760 760 molluscs 760760 mushrooms mushrooms mutton 616 760 mutton 616 616 d I'anglaise à l'anglaise with barley 616 616 barleyfemme 616 dwith la bonne à616_17 la bonne femme with 616-17 celeriac 617 with chick-peas celeriac 617 with d la with chick-peas catalane 617 à la catalane 617 617 with kohlrabi with macaroni kohlrabi d617 with la macaroni with milanaise 617 à la milanaise 617 ri la nigoise 617 niçoise 617 dàlalapaysanne 617 à la paysanne with red beans 617 616 wi thrice red 617 beans 616 with withwhite rice 617 with haricot haricot with beanswhite 616,616p ,Nantua beans 760616, 616p Nantua offal 760 760 ri offal 760 la p6rigourdine 762 pig's à la lights pèrigourdine 762 637 lights 637760 d pig's la printanidre seafood à la printanière 760 760 sweet seafood 760 d peppers I'espagnole sweet pep pers 684à l'espagnole Talleyrand 760684 d Talleyrand la tortue 760760 tortue 760 760 dà lalatoulousaine truffes 760 à la toulousaine 760 turkey truffies944 760 turkey 944 vegetables 760 vegetables 760

Ragneneau 760

Ragneneau rail 761 760 rail 761 761 raisine raisiné raisins761 434,761 raisins 434,761 wine 124 wine 124 raiton 761 raiton Raki 761 761 Raki 761 484,761 ramekins ramekins cheese484, 761 761 cheese 761 rampion 761 rampion 761 TT0 Ramponneat Ramponneau Rancio 761 770 Rancio 761259 rape seed rape seed 259761,761p raspberries raspberries 761p qeam Bavarian761, 761 Bavarian charlottecream 761 761 charlotte compote 761 260,762 compote 260, 762 cream 762 cream cr6pes762 288 crêpes 288 378 flan, cream flan, cream fritters 397 378 fritters 397 123 hippocras hippocras ice 492 123 ice iced492 mousse or pur6e iced 762mousse or purée 762 516-17 jam jam juice,516-17 pulp 762 juice, pulp 762 liqueur 556 liqueur 556520 pastejelly pastejelly sauce 827 520 sauce 827 sundae 909p sundae912 909p syrup syrup 912 tart 918 tart 918 d I'allemande 917 à l'allemande 917 tartlets 919 tartlets 919 vinegar 969 vinegar 969 Rassol'nik 887-8 Rassol'nik rastegai 484887-8 rastegai rat 762 484 rat 762762 ratafia ratafia 762762 ntatouille ratatouille770 762 Rat-Mort Rat-Mort raton 762 770 raton 762 ravioli 484,762,762p 484,762, ravioli forcemeats for 762p 763 forcemeats for 763 garnish 417 as gamish ray,assee skate 417 ray, see skate r6chaud 763,763p réchaud 763,icn 763p redcurrants: 492 redcurrants: soup 124 ice 492 soup 124 tart d I'allemande 917 à l'allemande 917 red tart mullet, see mullet, red rednettle mullet, see mullet, red red 763 red nettle redstart 763763 redstart 763 reduction 763 reduction redwing 763763 redwing 763763.4 refrigeration 763-4 refrigeration refrigerator 764,764p refrigerator 764, 764p r6galade, dla 764 règalade,La à la 764 R6gence, 770 Régence, reindeer 764La 770 reindeer 764 1050

l050

reine, dla 394 ri la cr6ole676 676 reine, à la 394 à la créole religieuse 764,764p withfruit fruit676 676 with religieuse 764, 764p r6moulade 764,797 normande676 676 à dlalanormande rémoulade 764,787 renaissance, 765 Pompadour676 676 Pompadour renaissance, à d.la la 765 rennet 67,765 pilaf699 699 rennet 67,765 pilaf repdre 765 potageXavier Xavier881 881 repère 765 potage reptiles: eggs 357 pudding743 743 reptiles: eggs 357 pudding restaurants 765-6 chocolate743 743 restaurants 765-6 chocolate of fame 766-71 English743 743 offame 766-71 Englisb reticulum 771 puddingmould mould775 775 pudding reticulum 771 r6veillon 771 ring:with withcherries cherries136 136 réveillon 771 ring: reverdir 771 136 reverdir 771 à dlacr6ole la créole J 36 rhinoceros 771 withfruit fruit775-6 7754 with rhinoceros 771 rhubarb 771 Montmorency 136 136 rhubarb 771 Montmorency compote 772 withvarious various compote 772 with freezing 737 garnishes135 135 freezing 737 garnishes goldencordial 1234 risotto: milanaise golden cordial 123-4 risotto: àdlalamilanaise jam 517,772 774 jam 517,772 774 pie 772 pi6montaise pie 772 àrilala piémontaise tart 772 774_5,774p tart 772 774-5,774p English 918 saffron 776 776 saffron English 918 rhyton 772 la serviette serviette 840 840 rhyton 772 àd la ibbon 772 soup, cream cream of of 874 874 ribbon 772 soup, rice 772-3,772p subrics 776 776 rice 772--3, 772p subrics boiled, with butter 773 pi6montaise 487 la piémontaise 4g7 butter 773 boiled, with àri la border: turning out tart 775 775 border: tuming out tart 963p with apricots apricots 775 775 963p with casserole : d I'ancienne vanilla, àd la la Bourbon casserole: à l'ancienne vanilla, t92 776 192 776 fillings for 192 water 124,776 water 124,776 192 fillings for small 192 Riche 770 Riche (Cafb) (Café) 770 small 192 cooking 773 riche, cooking 773 riche, àdla la 776 776 creamed 775 Richelieu Richelieu (pdtisserie) (pàtisserie) 776 776 creamed 775 cream fritters 397 Richelieu, la 776 Richelieu, àdla cream fritters 397 d,lacrlole 774 rickets rickets 776 776 à la créole 774 croquettes 475 ridge ridge cucumber croquettes 475 cucumber 776 776 d I'am6ricaine 475 rigodon rigodon 776-7 776-7 à J'américaine 475 curried 475 withmeat with meat 777 777 curried 475 old style 291 rijspap rijspap 776 776 old style 291 iàlalapiemontaise rillauds piémontaise 475 475 rillauds 777 777 savoury 291 illettes rillettes 777 777 savoury 291 stuffed 291 rillons stuffed 291 rillons 777 777 sweet 291 nllots sweet 291 rillots 777 777 dessert (sweet) 775 Rindfl eischk ochwiirste dessert (sweet) 775 Rindfteischkochwürste in dietetics 773 830 in dietetics 773 830 flan 775 ring ring(border) (border) 134 134 flan 775 with apricots 775 for forbrains brainsdàlala with apricots 775 fritters 397,479 pi6montaise piémontaise 134 134 fritters 397,479 g6teau: with caramel cold, cold,for forentr6es entréesoror gàteau: with caramel 775 sweet sweetdishes dishes135, 135,l35p 135p 775 with meringue 775 custard, custard,with withmirabelles mirabelles with meringue 775 au gras 774 d àlalavosgienne vosgienne135-6 135-6 au gras 774 d la grecque 774 fordesserts for desserts135-6 135-6 à la grecque 774 d I'imp,6ratice 775egg: à l'impératrice 775, egg:Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 775p t34 775p 134 d I'indienne 774 dlaprincesse à l'indienne 774 134 à la princesse134 little croustades 292 fish fishforcemeat forcemeatwith with little croustades 292 in milk 775 various in milk 775 variousgarnishes garnishes134 134 Montmorency 775 frogs' vert-p16 Montmorency 775 frogs'legs legs vert-pré134 134 panada 663 game forcemeat, panada 663 game forcemeat,with with pav6s: d la c6ven ole 676 various garnishes pavés: à la cévenole 676 gamishes135 135 various

INDEX INDEX haunch haunch779 779 noisettes potato potato135, 135,l35P 135p noisettes779-80 779-80 pie pie780 780 rice ricewith withcherries cherries136 136 saddle dlacreole sadd le780 780 à la créole136 136 d àI'allemande l'allemande780 780 MontmorencY Montmorency136 136 grand with grandveneur veneur780 780 withvarious various sliced, garnishes sliced,with withvarious various garnishes 135 135 sauces semolina:filled filledwith with sauces780 780 semolina: roes, various 136 variousfruit fruit 136 roes,soft soft454,851 454, 851 i àI'anglaise with withvarious various l'anglaise851 851 ininbarquettes garnishes gamishes 135 135 barquettes 851 851 ininbrown sole soledàlalanormande normande brownbutter butter 851-2 851-2 butter l35P 135, bu tter 169-70 169-70 135,135p carps' veal veaiforcemeat, forcemeat,with with carps' 189 189 cold, various 135 variousgarnishes garnishes 135 cold,with withcold coldfish fish 852 852 476 with crofites risotto: risotto: dàlalamilanaise milanaise croûtes with 476 dàlalaflorentine, 774 774 florentine, scalloP scallop shells 774-- 5, la pi6montaise piémontaise 774-5, dàla shells 486 486 fritters 774P fritters 479,852 479,852 774p as rissoles 484,777 484, 777 rissoles as garnish garnish 852 852 herring dà la la boh6mienne bohémienne 484 484 herring 454 454 in dà la in mayonnaise mayonnaise 852 852 la chalonnaise chalonnaise 484 484 dà la Cinderella la meunidre meunière 852 852 Cinderella 484 484 in rià la dauphine 484 484 la dauPhine butter 852 852 in noisette noisette butter omelette farm farm 484 484 omelette de de Savarin Savarin 3s+5 foie gras 383,484 383, 484 3545 pannequets mincemeat 591 pannequets 664 664 patties Pompadour Pompadour 484 patties 483 483 shells ià la scalloP shells in Rivesaltes (Muscat de) in scallop la 852 normande 778 normande 852 778 486 small 486 soufl6s, small roach roach 778,778p soufflés, 852 tartlets 778 roast tartlets 852 roast 376 toast 376 on toast 297-8,297P roasting 297p roasting 297-8, on 467,467P,780 rollmops 467, pan 778 778 roasting pan roasting rollmops 467p, 780 467 garnished 467 rolls: garnished 298 roasts: gravy 298 roasts:.gtavY rolls. 780 pudding 780 roly-poly pudding times cooking times average average cooking roly-poly 418 la 418 romaine, àd la 298 298 romaine, 78, banquets 78, Romans: banquets 778 Romans: rob rob 778 78p 394 Robert, la 394 78p Robert, àdla 266-7 cooking 266-7 778 robin 778 robin cooking 780 rook 780 771 Cancale 771 deCancale Rocher Rocher de rook pie780 780 778 pie rocket rocket 778 780 ropiness780 partridge 778 778 ropiness rock rock partridge 780 rosemary 780 837 rock-weed rock-weed 837 rosemary cream Bavarian cream roses:Bavarian 778,778p roebuck 778p roebuck778, roses: aux919l 778-9 orcutlets cutlets778-9 choPsor chops aux 520 pastejelly 779, chestnuts 779, withchestnuts with pas te jelly 520 670 pastilles670 779p 779p pastilles 969 vinegar969 779 Conti779 Conti vinegar (Rosolio)781 781 Rossoll(Rosolio) 779 creme779 à dlalacréme Rossoll 781 rotengle 779 grapes withgrapes 779 rotengle 781 with 781 rdtie781 juniPerberries berries withjuniper with rôtie 781 r6tisserie781 779 779 rôtisserie 781 rougail781 779 minute779 rougail à dlalaminute green781 781 apples,green poivrade779 779 poivrade apples, 781 aubergines781 779 romaine779 à dlalaromaine aubergines tomatoes andtomatoes codand saltcod 779 d'Uzds779 d'Uzés salt 781 778 civet778 civet 781 andprawns shrimpsand Prawns 359 6minc6s359 émincés shrimps 781 779 mignons779 filetsmignons 781 filets 781 raw781 tomatoes,raw 779 hash779 tomatoes, hash mou Ids134p 134p moulds

roulade (roll) 781 roulade (roll) 781 781 roul6 roulé 781 roulette 781,781p roulette 781, 781 P roussette 781-2 roussette 781-2 roussir 782 roussir 782 782 roux roux 782 418,782 royale royale 418, 782 418 asparagus tiPs asparagus tips 418 carrots, d la Cr6cY 418 carrots, à la Crécy 418 celery 418 celery 418 chicken Pur6e 418 chicken purée 418 game pur6e 418 gamepurée 418 pie pur6e 418 pie purée 418 plain 418 plain 418 tomato Pur6e 418 tomato purée 418 royale, dla 782 royale, à la 782 rudderfish 9A4,904P rudderfish 904,904p 782 rum rum 782 Rumania: cookerY 504 Rumania: cookery 504 Ruscus 782 Ruscus 782 782 rush rush 782 rusks 782 rusks 782 diet 782 diet 782 Paris 783 Paris 783 Russia: cookerY 508-9 Russia: cookery 508-9 rutabaga 783 rutabaga 783 russula 783 russula 783 783 rye rye 783

sS

sablage 784

sablage 784 sabl6 784 sablé 784 saccharine 784 saccharine 784 784 saccharometer saccharometer 784 sacristain 784 sacristain 784 saddle 784 sadd le 784saffiower 784 safflower 784 saffron 784 saffron 784 sage 784 sage 784 and onion forcemeat and onion forcemeat 389 389 andonionsauce 822 and onion sauce 822 sago 784 sago 784 pudding 743 pudding 743 with red wine 785 with red wine 785 785 George's agaric StStGeorge's agaric 785

l05l

1051

Saint-Germain 785 Saint-Germain 785785 Saint-Honor6 Saint-Honoré 785 St John's wort 785 St John's wort 785785 Saint-Michel

Saint-Michel 785 : gastronomic Saintonge

Saintonge: gastronomie 30P map

map785 30p Sak6

Saké 785 792 saladburnet

burnet 792 saladdressings: for mixed salad salad for mixed 788-9 saladsdressings: 7889 salads 785, plain salads for for 787 plain salads 785, 787785 salads salads 785 789 Albignac Albignac 789 789 Ali-Baba Ali- Baba 789 789 allemande allemande 789,789P 789 American American459 789, 789p anchovy anchovy 459789 Andalusian Andalusian789 789 Argenteuil Argenteuil 789 789 Arl6sienne Arlésienne63789 aubergine 63 aubergine 789 Bagration Bagration461,789 789 beetroot beetroot 461,789 789 d la creme la polonaise crème 789 789 dà la à la polonaise 789 789 Bressane Bressa ne 790 789 Brimont Brimont sProuts 790 156-7 Brussels Bmssels sprouts 156-7 172 cabbage cabbage 172 790 calves'brains calves' brains 790790 cancalaise cancalaise 790 cardoon 185 cardoon 185195 cauliflower cauliflower cress 790 celeriac with195 celeriac 231 cress 790 chickenwith chicken 239 chicory 231 chicory 239295,463 cucumber cucumber 295,463 302 custard marrow custard marrow demi-deuil 790 302 demi-deuil Doria 790 790 Doria 790 790,790P Dubarry Dubarry 790 790p favourite790, favourite 790 790 Flemish Flemish 790 392'790 Francillon Francillon 392,93,93P 790 beans French French beans 93, 93p green 786P green 786p 790 Imperia Imperia 790 Italian 790 ItaHan 790 790 Japanese Japanese 790 artichoke Jerusalem artichoke Jerusalem 520 520 lettuce, with hardlettuce, with hard787P boiledeggs boiled 790 787p lobstereggs lobster 790 790 Maharajah Maharajah 790 marrow 514 marrow 790 Mikado514 Mikado 591 mimosa790 591 mimosa mixed 788 mixed 788 604 mushroom mushroom 604

INDEX INDEX mussels 466 nigoise466 mussels 791 niçoise 791791 oriental 791 466,629 oriental ox muzzle oxoxmuzzle tongue466,629 466 longue 791 466 oxParisian Pernollet Parisian 791791 plain 785791 Pernollet plain 785 complimentary garnishes for 7g7 complimentary from cooked garnishes for 787 from cooked 797_g vegetables vegetables 787-8 dressings for 7g5, dressings for 785, 787 Port-Royal 787 791,79|p potato 789p791, 791p Port-Royal pumpkin potato 789p 745 pumpkin 745 Rachel 791 Raphael Rachel 791791,791p raw 787 791,791 P Raphael Reine raw 787 P6dauque 791 Rossini Reine Pédauque 791 791 Russian791 Rossini 791 salsify 802 791 Russian salsify salt cod802 255 sauerkraut, salt cod 255 d I'allemandeà 791,g29 sauerkraut, shellfish l'allemande 791 791,829 shrimp 468,943 shellfish 791 d la dieppoise shrimp 468,843 792 àspinach la dieppoise 891 792 spiny lobster spinach 891 7g0, gg4 sweet spiny peppers lobs ter 790,894 (pimento) sweet pep pers d la cr6ole 6g4,7gl (pimento) à la créole sweet potatoes 9l I 684,791 tomato sweet potatoes 911 928 trufles tomato 791,939 928 vegetable truffles 791, 792939 vegetablesfor vegetable 792 78gp watercress vegetables 792,975 for 788p whitebait watercress469 792,975 white whitebait beans469 (fresh) 95 salamander white beans 792(fresh) 95 salamb6 salamander 792 792,792p salami salam bô 792, 792p 467,792 salangane salami 467,792 792 sal6 792 salangane 792 salep salé 792 792 jelly 792 salep 792 soup jelly 792 792 salmigondis soup 792 792 salmis salmigondis 792 394,792 salmon salmis 793,793p 394,792 attereaux salmon 793,793 793p boiled attereaux 793 : d l'anglaise 794 with various boiled: à l'anglaise sauces 794 with various sauces 793 braised 793794 butter braised 169794 d la canadienne butter 169 467 à la canadienne 467

Chambord 794 hot 793-8 g00 d la chalonnaise800 hot 793-8 chalonnaise à la Chambord 794 cold 798-800 kedgeree 796 chasseur 800 coldd 798-800 kedgeree 796 chasseu r 800 I'anglaise 798, kromeskies 795 chicken800 800 kromeskies 795 à l'anglaise 798, chicken 798p mayonnaise 799_900 cocks'combs 800 mayonnaise 799-800 798p cocks' combs 800 garnishes for 79g m6daillons of, cold g00 itblanc 246 médaillons or, cold 800 garnishes l'or 798 à blanc 246 with Montpellier Orly of fillets with 246 with Montpellier Orly of fillets with â dbrun brun 246 butter 800 tomato sauce 796 crayfish800 800 butter 800 tomato sauce 796 crayfish cold steak with various paupiettes: cucumbers800 800 paupiettes: à d cold steakand with various cucumbers sauces garnishes I'imp6riale467 467 Cussy801 801 l'impériale sauces and garnishes Cussy 800 auvert 467 801 au vert 467 800 cucutlets tlets 801 coulibiac 795 pav6 d la Nantua 675 dlaladieppoise dieppoise801 801 coulibiac 795 pavé à la Nantua 675 à court-bouillon for 793 pie 692 l'6carlate801 801 court-bouillon for 793 pie 692 à dl'écarlate creamed, au gratin 795 hot, d la frangaise fish801 801 creamed, au 795 gratin 795 hot, à la française fish croquettes 796 g0l d financidre801 796 croq uettes â lalafinanciére cutlets 794795 en pantin 692 foiegras gras801 801 en pantin 692 r oie cutlets 794 d I'am6ricaine 794 6 la russe 692 French beans beans801 801 à la russe 692 French àinl'américaine aspic 798 794 pilaf 796 dlalacréme crdme 801 801 pilaf 796 â inbraised aspic 798 with red d la princesse 796 fruit 801 801 braised with red â la princesse 796 fruit wine 794 purile 746 game 801 801 wine 794 purée 746 game braised with white quenelles 796 ham 801 801 quenelles 796 ham braised with white wine 795 risotto 796 g0l hard-boiled eggs eggs 801 wine 795795 risotto 796 hard-boiled Mornay roast 796 Jerusalem artichokes artichokes Mornay 795 roast 796 Jerusalem d la moscovite 79g in scallop shells 796 801 âwith la moscovite 798 801 in scallop shells 796 mushrooms d la d la florentine 796 d la la Joinville Joinville 801 801 with mushrooms à la â la florentine 796 à crdme 795 d la Mornay 796 juive 205 d la la juive 205 crème 795 à la Mornay 796 à with mushrooms and la provengale 797 lobster 801 801 àd la provençale 797 with mushrooms and lobster Madeira 795 with shrimps 797 meat 801 801 Madeira 795 with shrimps 797 meat d la Nantua 798 skewered 797 la Montglas Montglas 595,801 595, g0l skewered 797 àd la Nantua 798 àd la I'orientale 798 smoked 467 mushroom 604,801 604.801 à l'orientale 798 smoked 467 mushroom d la parisienne 798-9 Boston style 467 g0l with 798-9 Boston style 467 with Madeira Madeira 801 à la parisienne Pojarski 795 d la moscovite 467 mussels 801 à la moscovite 467 mussels 801 Pojarski 795 d la russe 799 souffi6 797 onions soufflé 797 onions 801 801 à la russe 799795 with truffies steak d I'am6ricaine g0l p6rigourdine dà la steak à l'américaine la périgourdine 801 with truffles 795 with trufres and 797 potatoes 801 797 potatoes 801 with truffles and cream 795 dl'anglaise 797 dà la à l'anglaise 797 la reine reine 801 801 cream 795 variously garnished fried 797 dà la royale 801 variously garnished fried 797 la royale 801 795 grilled 797,797p dà la grilled 797, 797p la Saint-Hubert Saint-Hubert g0l 801 795 794p cutting d la meunidre 797 shrimps à la meunière 797 shrimps 801 801 cuttingd 794p darne, I'ancienne 304 d la Nantua 797 g0l spiny darne, â l'ancienne 304 â la Nantua 797 spinylobster lobs ter 900, 800,801 Daumont 795 poached in white sweetbreads 801 poached in white sweetbreads 801 Daumont 795 escalopes 795 wine 797 tomatoes wine 797 tomatoes 801 801 escalopes fillets 796 795 trongon, Phil6as truffies tronçon, Philéas t ru ffles 801 80 1 fillets 796 fried skewered i97 Gilbert veal fried skewered 797 Gilbert 797-8,798p 797-8, 798p veal 801 801 fritters 797 salmon trout 800,936 salsify 802 salsify 802 salmon trout 800,936 frittefs 797 galantine 799 salpicon 800-l ininb6chamel galantine 799 in salpicon 800--1 béchamel 802 802 glazed: Bellevue. d I'am6ricaine 800 au beurre glazed: Bellevue, in à l'américaine 800 au beurrenoisette noisette g02 802 aspic 799 anchovies 800 dàlalacrdme anchovies 800 crème802 802 aspic 799 au Chambertin 799. artichokes 800 fritters au Chambertin 799, artichokes 800 !'ritters 395,802 395,802 799p with cream 800 Mornay 799p with cream 800 Mornay802 802 d la champenoise asparagus (green) 800 omelette à la champenoise asparagus (green) 800 omeletted àlala 799 aubergines in cream maraichdre 799 au aubergines in cream maraîchère354 354 cutlets 800 d àlalapolonaise polonaise802 802 cutlets au 800 Chambertin 799 beetroot 800 salad salad802 802 Chambertin 799 beetroot 800 cutlets with d la boh6mienne 800 saut6ed: cutlets \Vithof à la bohémienne 800 sautéed:auaubeurre beurreg02 802 mac6doine bone-marrow 130 auxfinesherbes macédoine799 of bone-marrow 130 aux fines herbesg02 802 vegetables brains 800 provengale dà lala-g02 vegetables 799 799 brains 800 provençaleg02 802 d I'imp6riale cancalaise 800 shoots à l'impériale 799 shoots 802 cancaJaise 800 Monselet 799 cardinal 800 ininveal Monselet 799799, cardinal 800 stockg02 802 vealstock parisienne d la carrots d la crdme 800 salt g02_3 à la parisienne 799, carrots à la crème 800 salt 802--3 799p celeriac 197,800 g90 spiced celeriac 197,800 spicedg03, 803, 890 d la799p russe 799 cdpes 800 salting 7334,g03 à la russe 799 cèpes 800 salting 733-4,803 r052 1052

INDEX INDEX

salting saltingtub tub803 803 salt saltmeadow meadow803 803 saltpetre sai tpetre803 803 samphire samphire803 803 sand sandeel eel 803 803 sand sandpiper piper(guignette) (guignette) 437,803 437,803 sand-smelt sand-smelt(ath6rine) (athérine) 59, 59, 59p 59p sandwich sandwichcakes, cakes,see see sponge spongecakes cakes sandwiches sandwiches 803 803 Alsatian Alsatian 804 804 antibois an tibois 804 804 basil basil 804 804 bookmaker's bookmaker's 804 804 croque-monsieur croque-monsieur 290 290 Dijon Dijon 804 804 foie foie gras gras 804 804 p6rigourdine périgourdine 804 804 sweet sweet 804 804 tartare tartare 804 804 toasted toasted 804 804 watercress watercress 976 976 sangler 804 sangri 804 Sangria 804 sansonnet 804 sapodilla 804 Saracencorn Saracen corn 804 la 418 sarde. àd la sarde, 80,S-5,805p sardines 804-5,805p sardines 805 I'anglaise 805 àd l'anglaise 805 I'antiboise 805 àd l'antiboise 140,805 bouillabaisse 140,805 bouillabaisse 169,805 butter 169,805 butter 472 canapbs 472 canapés 462 nantaise 462 àd lala nantaise 477 dartois 477 dartois 389 forcemeat 389 forcemeat 805 fried 805 fried grilled 805 805 grilled 805 468,805 oil 468, ininoil au papercases· cases:au inin paper gratin 805 805 gratin 805 I'italienne805 àdl'italienne 805 portugaise805 àdlalaportugaise paupiettes805 805 enpaupiettes en 805 auplat au plat 805 pur6e468 468 purée (preserved) salted(preserved) salted 805 805 spinachà dlala withspinach with provengale806 806 provençale 806 wine806 whitewine withwhite with 807 Sargasso807 Sargasso 418 sarrasine,à dlala418 sarrasine, 807 Sassenage807 Sassenage 807 satyrion807 satyrion 827,827p sauceboat827, sauceboat 827p 315 double315 saucepan, saucepan, double

sauces sauces807 807 African African808 808 aigre-doux aigre-doux808 808 aigrelette, aigrelette,with withverjuice verjuice 816 816 Albert Albert489,816 489,816 Alboni Alboni 808 808 albuf6ra albuféra 816 816 allemande allemande 15,816-17 15,816-17 American American 817 817 anchovY anchovy 817,823 817,823 andalouse andalouse 817,823 817,823 aniseed aniseed 808 808 apple apple 42,823 42,823 apricot apricot 827 827 aurora aurora 817 817 banquidre banquière 817 817 basic basic (great) (great) 807-8 807-8 bitarde bâtarde 817 817 birnaise barnaise 97.817 97,817 beauharnais beauharnais 817 817 b6chamel béchamel 98,808 98, 808 with onion 817 817 with onion Bercy Bercy 817 817 bigarade bigarade 808-9 808-9 bonnefoy bonnefoy 809 809 bontemps bontemps 817 817 809 bordelaise bordelaise 809 Brandade Brandade da la la 817 provengale provençale 817 147,809,810, bread 147,809,810, bread 817 817 809 fried 809 fried 148,809,817 Breton 148,809,817 Breton 806P brown brown 806p 807-8 basic 807-8 brown basic brown comPound brown brown compound 808-16 808-16 gravY 809 809 brown gravy brown BurgundY Burgundy

(bourguignonne) (bourguignonne) 809-10 809-10 817-18 butter 817-18 butter

818 chervil818 withçhervil with 823 Cambridge Cambridge 823 818 caper818 caper 818 cardinal cardinal 818 818 celery818 celery 810 Chambertin 810 Chambertin 810 Chambord810 Chambord 818,823 Chantilly818,823 Chantilly 810 chapelure810 chapelure 810 charcutidre cha rcu tière 810 810 chasseur810 chasseur 810 chateaubriand810 chateaubriand chaud-froid:à d chaud-froid: 818 I'allemande818 l'allemande 818 I'andalouse818 à dl'andalouse 818 I'aurore818 à dl'aurore 818 banquidre818 à dlalabanquière 818 Beauharnais818 Beauharnais

blonde 818 blonde 818 brown 810 brown 810 chicken 810 chicken 810 d l'6cossaise 818 à l'écossaise 818 fish 810 fish 810 game-flavoured 810 game-ftavoured 810 d la hongroise 818 à la hongroise 818 d I'indienne 818 à l'indienne 818 d la Nantua 818 à la Nantua 818 8l I i àlalanigoise niçoise 811 with orange 810 with orange 810 d la royale 818 à la royale 818 d la sicilienne 818 à la sicilienne 818 with tomatoes 810 with tomatoes 810 with trufle essence wi th tfuffie essence 810 810 white 818 white 818 cherry 827 cherry 827 dried 8l I dried 811 818-19 chiwy chivry 818-19 chocolate 827 chocolate 827 Choron 817 Choron 817 cingalaise 823 cingalaise 823 Colbert 811 Colbert 811 cold 823-7 cold 823-7 Collioure 823 Collioure 823 cranberry 811 cran berry 81 1 crayfish 819 crayfish 819 cream 819 cream 819 Cressonidre 823 Cressonière 823 Cumberland 823 Cumberland 823 curry 819 curry 819 d I'indienne 819 a l'indienne 819 demi-esPagnole 310 demi-espagnole 310 demi-glace 310, 807 demi-glace 310,807 dessert 827 dessert (devilled) 827 811 diable diable (devilled) 811 dijonnaise 823 dijonnaise 823 diplomat 819 diplomat 819 duxelles 8l I duxelles 811 6cossaise 819 écossaise 8 J 9 egg 819 egg 819 and butter 819 and butter 819819 dl'6cossaise à l'écossaise 819 English 819 English 819 English bread and English bread and butter 819 butter 819 English cream 819 English cream 819 equipment for 807P equipment for 807p espagnole 362-3,807 espagnole 362-3,807 demi-glace 811 demi-glace 811 fennel 819-20 fenne! 819-20 financidre 811 financière 811 fines herbes 811,820 fines herbes 811, 820 foyot 820 foyot 820 French, for fish 820 French, for fish 820 freshwater fish 820 freshwater fish 820 genevoise 422,811 genevoise 422, 81 1 genoise, with genoise, wi th Bordeaux 811-12 Bordeaux 811-12 Godard 820 Godard 820 r053

gooseberry 812 gooseberry 812 812 grandveneur grand 820 veneur 812 Greek Greek 820 825 green mayonnaise green mayonnaise 436,823 825 gribiche gribiche 436,823 812 hach6e hachée 812812 herb herb 812 456,820 hollandaise hollandaise 456,820 supr0me 820 suprême 820 489,820, horseradish horseradish 489,820, 825 825 820 Hungarian Hungarian 810 820 hunter hunter 810 Indian 819 Indian 819 825 indienne indienne 812825 Italian Italian820 812 ivoire ivoire 820 820 Joinville Joinville 820 820 Laguipidre Laguipière 820 820 lobster lobster 820812,821 lyonnaise lyonnaise812 812,821 Madeira Madeira 812 821 d'h6tel maitre maître d'hôtel 821 821,825 maltaise maltaise 821, 821 825 marinidre marinière812 821 marrow marrow 812 824P,825 mayonnaise mayonnaise 824p, 825 825 with anchovY with anchovy825 825 with caviare with caviare 825 cress 825 with wi thrusse cress 825 825 d la àwith la russe 825 825 shrimps with 825 tarragon825 with shrimps with362 tarragon 825 mdre mère 592.825 mint 362 mint 821 morel592,825 morel 821821 Mornay Mornay 821 825 mousquetaire mousquetaire mousseline 821825 mousseline 821 mousseuse 821 mousseuse 812 mushroom 821 mushroom mussel 607 812 mussel 607607,812,821 mustard mustard 607,812,821 825 andcream and cream 821 825 Nantua Nantua 821 812 napolitaine napolitaine nigoise 825 812 niçoise 813 noisette825 noisette 813 821 normande normande onion 821 821 onion 821813 orange orange 813825 orientale orientale 825 Oxford 657 Oxford 813,821 oyster 657 oyster 813,821 821 paloise paloise 821825 Parisian Parisian 821 parsleY 825 parsley 813 pepper821 pepper 813 813 p6rigourdine périgourdine 813 perigueux 813 périgueux 813 821-2 pi6montaise piémontaise 821-2

INDEX

INDEX

pineapple 827 pineapple 827 pine kernel, d à pine kerne1, I'italienne814 814 l'italienne piquante 814 piquante 814 poivrade 813 poivrade 813 polonaise 822 polonaise 822 poor man's 814 poor man's 814 portugaise 814 po rtugaise 814 Port wine 814 Port wine 814 poulette 822 poulette 822 princesse 822 ", ... 1'"'1''''''''''''' 822 printanidre 822 822 provengale 8l4,g2S nro'venlcale 814,825 garlic 822 garlic 822 raspberry 827 raspberry 827 ravigote 762,814,822, ravigote 762,814,822, 82s 825 reducing 808p 808p red wine 809, 815 809,815 red wine reform 815 reform 815 remoulade 825 remoulade 825 riche 819 riche 819 Richelieu 822 Richelieu 822 Robert 778,81s Robert 778,815 roebuck 815 roebuck 815 romaine 815 romaÎne 815 roudz6 34 roudzé 34 rouennaise 815 rouennaise 815 royal 822 royal 822 Russian 822,925 Russian 822, 825 sageandonion 822 sage and onion 822 Sainte-Menehoulde Sain te- Menehoulde 815 815 St Malo 822 St Malo 822 salmis 815 salmis 815 with Champagne with Champagne 815 815 with red wine 816 with red wine 816 sardalaise 827 sardalaise 827 saupiquet 829 saupiquet 829 Scotch egg 822 Scotch 822 shallot 7,822,827 shal!ot 817,822,927 shrimp shrimp 822 822 soubise 822 soubise 822 soya 889 soya 889 straining straining 813p,814p, 813p, 814p, 90t-2 901-2 strawberry 827 suprOme 808,822-3 Swedish 827 Swedish 827

Talleyrand 823 Talleyrand 823 tarragon tarragon816 816 tartare tartare827 827 tomato tomato807-8 807-8 tortue tortue816 816

trufle

trume939 939 La Varenne 827 La Varenne 827 velout6 808 velouté 808 with onions withgreen greenonions 823 823 thick thick816 816

Venetian823 823 VenetÎan venison816 816 venison verdurette827 827 vcrdurette V6ron823 823 Véron Victoria816,823 816,823 Victoria Villeroi823 823 Villeroi vinaigrette826p,827 826p,827 Vincent827,968 827,968 Vincent Waterfisch976 976 Waterfisch white:basic basic808 808 white: compound816-23 816_23 compound whitewine wine823 823 white Worcestershire1002 1002 Worcestershire Yorkshire816 816 Yorkshire nngara816 816 saucisson827-8. 827-8,827p, saucisson 827p, 828p

sauerkraut 828-9,828p I'alsacienne 829 829 àdl'alsacienne garnish 829 asgarnish 829 as omelette àdl'alsacienne I'alsacienne omelette 351 351 salad 791 791 salad I'allemande 829 829 àd l'allemande assoupgarnish 829 soup garnish 829 as la strasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise àd la 829 829 saupiquet "" ",,...,,.,, ,,"'. 829 829 saur 829 829 saur saurel 829 829 saurel sausages 830-l sa usages 830-1 la catalane catalane 720 720 àd la chipolata 720 720 chipolata country country 720_l 720-1 cr6pinettes 288 devilled chipolata chipolata 484 484 6la à la duchesse duchesse 484 484 eel eel 330 330 forcemeat forcemeat for for poultry 387 387 Frankfurt Frankfurt 484,830 484, 830 forgarnish 830 for 830 grilled 830 830 as as hors horsd'oeuvre d'oeuvre 468. 468, 484 484 household (home-

made) 828 dàI'italienne 484 dàlalalanguedocienne Jangue:doael1oe 494,930 484, long long830 830 Lyon Lyon828 828 d àla la lyonnaise 484 484 madriline madrilène830 830 d àlalamaltaise maltaise484 484 pig's 721 pig'sliver Iiver721 pork 7l7J1,720 l, 720 red red830 830 with red or green cabbage 720

with wi thrisotto risotto830 830

à la piémontaise d la piemontaise831 831 roll roll831831 smoked smoked830p,831 830p,831 Strasbourg 831 Strasbourg484, 484,831 Toujouse Toulouse831 831 à dlalatyrolienne tyrolienne484 484 83 1 Vien na 484, Vienna 484,831 ininwhite whitewine wine831 831 àla d,lazingara484 484 sauté saut6 (method)831 831 sauté pan 831,831p saut6pan 831,83Ip sautés saut6s299,831 299,831 fish fish831 831 meat meat831 831 savarin savarin831-2 831-2 cherry,àrilalaChantilly Chantilly 832 832 àrilalacrème crdme 832 832 doughfor for318-19 318-19 Montmorency Montmorency 832 832 pineapple ):-"" ........ 1-".1-"..., 701 701 savarin p savarin mould mould 831 83lp saveloys saveloys 468 468 savory savory 832 832 savouries savouries 832 832 savouriog savouring 832-3 832-3 Savoy Savoy 833 833 gastronomic map g34p savoyarde, ila 833 Sawo manila 834, g35p

Saxifrage 834 Scabious 834 834 scald 834 scald scale 834 scallion 834 834 s.callop 834 834 scallop Saio t-Jacq ues scallop Saint-Jacques 835p,836p 834-5,835p,836p brochettes 835 835 brochettes fried 835 835 fried in batter ba Uer 835 835 in Colbert 835 835 Colbert tartare 835-6 835-6 la tartare dàla augratin gratin 835 835 au 835 riàla la dieppoise g35 in mayonnaise 835

Mornay 835 scallop shells : garnished

484-6 scampi, see prawns, Dublin Bay

Scandinavia:cookery r"r' .... Scandinavia: 509-10 s09-10 scarus836 836 scarus Schaleth,Jewish Jewish836 836 Schaleth, Schnitzel836 836 Schnitzel 836 scolymus 836 scorzonera802 802 scorzonera scoter-duck836 836 scoter-duck scum836 836 scum anemones836 836 seaanemones sea

plr"

1054 1054

seasea bass 836 bass 836 bream 836, 836p seaseabream 836,836p sea cow 836 seacow 836 seafoods 836p seafoods836, 836,836p flan 378 flan 378 fritters fritters395 395 omelette omelette355 355 ragott760 760 Ho 836-7 riso risotto 836-7 seakale seakale837 837 Swiss seakale seakalebeet, beet,see see Swiss chard chard seal seal837 837 sea-Iark sea-lark908 908 sea perch837 seaperch 837 sea seaslug slug837 837 seasonîng seasoning 837 837 sea urchin 837, 837p seaurchin 837,837p pur6e 746,837 746,837 seaweed seaweed 66 iridescent iridescent 512 512 sea seawrack wrack 837 837 sébille s6bille 837 837 Sehzer Seltzer water water 837 837 semolina semolina 837 837 English English pudding pudding 838 838 flamiri flamiri 377 377 friHers fritters 397 397 gnocchi 418 418 kasha 523,837-8 523,9i7-g Iîttle little croustades croustades 292 292 pav6s, small small 676 676 pudding 744, 838 pudding 7U,938 with fruit fruit with 838p ftHed with with various ring filled various 136 fruit 136 subrics 487,838 sept-oeil 838 838 Serdeau (Sers d'eau) 838 service 838-9 service 838-9 service-bcrry 839, 839, service-berry 839p serviette 839 serviette 839 serviette,riàla la 839-40 839--40 serviette, sesame 840 840 sesame sesameseed seedoil oil 648 sesame 648 840 Seyssel 840 shad 840,840p 840, shad Claudine 840 Claudine fried 840 840 fried J'anglaise 840 dàI'anglaise 840 Orly840 840 Orly grilled840 840 grilled mushrooms, à la withmushrooms, with d la bonnefemme femme 840 bonne 840 plank840 840 ononplank 840 auauplat 840 l'ancienne stuffed: d: àI'ancienne 840 840 840-1 ri la m6nagire 84G-l d la mode de

Cocherel 841

INDEX dàlalaportugaise portugaise 840 840 shad-bush shad-bush 841 841 shaggy shaggyink inkcap cap 841 841 shallot 841 841 shallot

butter butter 169,841 169,841 essence essence 363,841 363, 841 marchand marchand de devins vins

butter butter 169 169 sauce sauce 827 827 shark shark 841 841 sharpen 841 841 sharpening sharpening steel steel 841, 841, 84lp 841p shchi shchi 888 888 she-ass she-ass 841 841 sheep: brains, brains, see see brains brains sheep: head head 633 633 kidney, see see kidneYs kidneys liver, Iiver, see see liver liver taUs: braised braised 620 tails: grilled gri!led 620 620 trotters troHers 635 en blanquette blanquette 635 in crEpinettes dà la la p6rigourdine périgourdine 635 croquettes croquettes 635 fried 635 d à I'ancienne l'ancienne 635 fritots fritots 478 àd la hongroise hA,nOT'A":'" 635 d la poulette 635-6 àla àd la rouennaise 636 636 d la vinaigrette 468, àla 636 636 841 shell 841 shell flan 379 379 shellfish: flan shellfish: 395 fritters 395 fritters 450 hash 450 hash 465 d'oeuvre 465 hors d'oeuvre as hors as 559 loaves 559 loaves 581 mayonnaise 581 mayonnaise 648 oil 648 oiJ pannequets 664 664 pannequets patties 483 483 pie692 692 791 salad 791 salad purse 841 841 shepherd's purse shepherd's 494-5,841-2 sherbets494-5, sherbets 841-2 570 Madeira 570 Madeira 842 Sherry 842 842 cobbler 842 cobbler 842 shin842 shin 842 shirr 842 shirr 842 shortbread 842 shortbread 842 shoulder 842 shoulder 842 andslicer slicer842 shredderand shredder 842 shrike842 shrike 468,842,842P shrimps468,842, shrimps 842p 58,842 aspic58,842 aspic 471 barquettes47\ barquettes

skirret skirret 847 847

bisque bisque 878 878

slang, slang,culinary culinaryand andtable table 392-3 392-3 slaughter slaughter 847,847p 847p slaughter slaughterhouse house 847-8, 847-8, 848p 848p e e calamary sh, s see sleeve-fi s1eeve-fish, slimness slimness 848 848 sloe sloe 848 848 smallage smallage 848 848 smell smell 848 848 smelts smelts 848 848 dLi I'anglaise l'anglaise 848 848 enescabdche en escabèche 849 849 fried fried 849,849p 849, 849p skewered skewered 849 849 au gratin 849 849 grilled 849 849 dà I'anglaise 849 849 in in marinade marinade 468 468 on on skewers skewers 849,849p 849, 849p soup, soup, velout6 velouté 879 879 la dieppoise 879 dàla 879 dà I'indienne l'indienne 879 879 34 smoking smoking (preserving) (preserving) 7734 (tobacco) 849 smoking ~ll'V"'Jlllr, (tobacco) 849 snail snail dish dish 850p 850p snail pincers and snail and fork fork 850p 850p 849,850p snails 849, snails 850p 850 I'arl6sienne 850 àd l'arlésienne 850 d la bourguignonne 850 àla 850 broth broth la for, àd la butter for, butter 169 bourguignonne bourguignonne 169 850 chablisienne 850 la chablisienne àd la 850 Riguidi 850 Comtesse Riguidi Comtesse poulette 850 850 la poulette àd la 850,85lP snipe 850, snipe 851 casserole 850-l casserole with truffies trufles croustade, with croustade,

butter butter 169 169

canapls 462 462 cold coldmousse mousse 843 843 coquilles coquilles 842 842 crottes croûtesdàlalaNantua Nantua 293 293 forcemeat forcemeat 389 389 fried fried 843 843 omelette omelette 355 355 pannequets pannequets 664 664 patties 483 483 pilaf pilaf 843 843 prlrile purée 746 746 rougail 781 78J salad 468,843 468,843 la dieppoise 792 dàla 792 salpicon 801 sauce sauce 822 822 scallop scaUop shells shells 486 486

soufl6 soufflé 864 864

soup soup 843 843 pur6e purée 878 878 velout6 velouté 879 879 d à la la normande normande 879 879 smoked 468 sigui: sigui. smoked 468 843 silk-cotton tree silk-cotton tree 843 843 silkworms silkworms 843 843 Sillery 843 Sillery

843,844p, 845P silver sil ver 843, 843 silver sil ver birch bîrch 843 (ath6rine) 59, 59, silverside (athérine) silverside 59p,843 59p,843 843 simarouba 843 simarouba 843 simmering 843 C""""""""'nr,o singeing 843 singeing 843 sink 843 sink 843,846p siphon 843, siphon 846p 846 sirloin 846 sirloin skate 846,846p skate 846p 846 aubeurrenoir au beurre noir 846 846 noisette 846 beurre noisette au beurre au various with various boiled, with boiled, sauces 846 sauces fried 846 fried gratin 846 augratin au jellied 846 jellied liver 846 liver brown butter, and brown and of 486 shells of scallop shells scallop crofites croûtes 476,846 fritters 846 frÎtters polonaise, scallop scalloP àdlalapolonaise, 486 shells 486 shells 846 meunidre846 àdlalameunière 846 skewer846 skewer 60-l foodcookedon food cooked on 60--1 847 skim847 skim 847,847p skimmer 847, skimmer 847p 847 skin847 skin 847 skinning ................ t> 847

851 851

851 Lucullus 851 hot pit6 Lucullus 851 sniPe, great 851 846 snow 851 846 snowball 851 846 851 snowPartridge 851 846 snow 851 soaking 851 846 soaking 851 sobronade 851 butter, sobronade 851 486 soda-water soda-water 851 130 sodium perborate 130 476,846 sodium 852 softening 852 846 softening soft roes, soft see roes, roes, see soft roes, soft 852-3 sole852-3 sole 853 I'am6ricaine 853 àdl'américaine

853 I'amiral 853 àdl'amiral

"

1055 1055

853 I'anglaise853 àdl'anglaise 853 I'arl6sienne853 àil'arlésienne 56P aspic aspic 56p I'ancienne attereaux :àdl'ancienne attereaux: 853 853

moderne 853 à la moderne 853

d la

aubergines 853 with wiili 853 853 barquettes barquettes 853

beignets 853 beignets 853 Bercy 853 853 femme 853 iàlalabonne bonne femme 853 border of fillets border of flUets 855 diplomate diplomate 855 d la bourguignonne à la bourguignonne 853 853 d la bretonne 853 à la bretonne 853 d la brochettes, brochettes, à la 853 duxelles duxeUes 853 853 cardinal cardinal 853 854 Colbert Colbert 854 854 curried curried 854 d la diplomate 854 à la diplomate 854 854 fillets fillets 854 d I'am6ricaine 854 à l'américaine 854 d I'ancienne 854 à J'ancienne 854 d I'anglaise 854 à 854 d I'armoricaine 854 à ['armoricaine 854 aspic of, d la aspic of, à la parisienne 85+5 854-5

Bercy 855

boiled 855 855 Boitelle Boi telle 855

femme

bonne àd la la bonne femme 855

855 la bordelaise 855 àd la bordelaise 855 d la bourguignonne à la bourguignonne 85s 855 d la cancalaise 855 à la cancalaise 855 cardinal 855,855p cardinal 855, la catalane 855 àd la catalane 855 with Chambertin with Chambertin 855 855 Chauchat 855,855P Chauchat 855, 855p Chivry 855 Chivry 855 cold 855-6 cold 855-6 with courgettes 856 with courgettes 856 Cr6cy 856 856 Cubat 856 Cubat 856 854P cutting 854p Daumont 856 Daumont 856 dauphine 856 dauphine 856 d la dieppoise 856 à la dieppoise 856 I'espagnole 856 ài l'espagnole 856 d la f6compoise 856 à la fécompoise 856 d la florentine 856 à la florentine 856 fried 856 fried 856 engoujons 856, cn goujons 856, 856p 856p au gratin 856 au gratin 856 grilled 856 grilled 856 d la hongroise 856 à la hongroise 856 d I'indienne 85G7 à l'indienne 856-7 857 àdlaJacques la Jacques 857 Joinville 857 Joinville 857 enjulienne 857 en j ulîenne 857 857 Marguery857

INDEX

INDEX

Marivaux 857

Marivaux 857 857 d la meunidre à Montreuil la meunière857 857 Montreuil 857857 Montrouge Montrouge 857 Mornay 857 Mornay 857 Murat 857 Murat 857 with mushrooms 857 with withmushrooms mussels 857857 with d la mussels Nantua 857 857 àdlalaNantua 857 857, normande à la normande 857, 858p d858p I'orientale 857 àOrly l'orientale 857 858 Orly with 858 oysters 858 with oysters 858 d la panetidre 858 àParmentier la panetière858 858 Parmentier 858858 d la paysanne àdlala paysanne 858858 pi6montaise àenla pilaf piémontaise 858 858 en 858858 surpilaf le plat sur le plat 855 858 poached poached princesse855 858 princesse 858 859 with red wine with red858 wine 859 Riche Riche 858 858,858p Richelieu Richelieu 858, 858p Saint-Germain 858 Saint-Germain 858 with shrimps 858 with shrimps skinning 854p858 skinning 854p Sylvette 858 Sylvette 858859 en torsade en torsade 859 859 d la trouvillaise à la la v6nitienne trouvillaise 859 859 d àV6ron la vénitienne 859 859 Véron 859 Victoria 859 Victoria with white859 wine 859 with white wine Walewska 859 859 859 flanWalewska d la normande 379 à la normande 379 dflan la florentine 859 à la florentine 859 fondants d la Nantua fondants à la Nantua 478 478 859 fried fried 859 fritters 859 fritters 859 859 golden golden gratin859 au 859-60 au gratin grilled 860859-60 grilled 860 860 gulyas gulyas 860de vin 860 marchand de vin 860 dmarchand la marinidre 860 à la marinière 860 en matelote d la à la en matelote860 normande normande d860 mayonnaise mayonnaise à I'ancienne 581 i lal'ancienne m6nagdre581 860 ménagère860 860 dàlalameunidre à la meunière 860 meunidre Mont-Brv meuniére Mont-Bry 860 860 Montreuil 860 Montreuil Mornay 860860 Mornay860 860 mousse mousse 860 with mushrooms 860 mushrooms 860 d with la Nantua 860 à la Nantua 860

d la nigoise 860 à la niçoise 860 Nobl 860 Noël 860 d la normande 861 à la normande 861 pdt6 861 pâté 861 paupiettes 861 paupiettes 861 Mont-Bry 861,861p Mont-Bry 861, 861p d la nissarde 861 à la nissarde 861 Paillard 861 Paillard 861 pavb 676 pavé 676 d la paysanne 861 àpie la paysanne 861 692 pie 692 pilaf 861 pilaf 861 sur le plat 861-2 sur le plat 861-2 poached, various poached, various sauces 862 sauces 862 d la portugaise 862 à la portugaise 862 d la provengale 862 àpur6e la provençale 862 862 purée 862 quenelles 862 quenelles 862 with red wine 862 with red wine 862 Richelieu 862 Richelieu 862 ring, d la normande ring, à la normande 135, l35p 135,135p risotto 862 risotto 862 d la russe 861 à la russe 861 Saint-Germain 862 Saint-Germain 862 scallop shells of 862 scallop shells of 862 with shrimps 962 with shrimps 862 skinning 852p skinning 852p tartlets 853 tartlets 853 timbale d I'am6ricaine timbale à l'américaine 926 926 timbale of fillets: d tim baie of flllets: à l'ancienne 858-9 l'ancienne 858-9 Grimaldi 859 Grimaldi 859 d la normande 859 à la normande 859 Victoria 859 Victoria 859 turban of fillets 859 turban of fillets 859 vol-au-vent of fillets vol -au-vent of fil lets 859 859 with white wine with white wine 862 862 solilem (solimene) 862 solilem (solimene) 862 Solomon's seal 862 Solomon's seal 862 Solyanka 888 Solyanka 888 sommelier 862 sommelier 862 sorb-apple 862,863p sorb-apple 862, 863p sorbets 841-2 sorbets 841-2 sorghum 862 sorghum 862 sorrel 862 sorrel 862 braised 863 braised 863 chiffonnade 240,863 chiffonnade 240,863 with cream 863 with cream 863 mixed 240 mixed 240 fondue 386 fondue 386 fritters 395 fritters 395 omelette 355 omelette 355 d la verduridre 355 à la verdurière 355 preserved 863 preserved 863 pur6e 863 purée 863 sot-l'y-laisse 863 sot-l'y-laisse 863 soubise 863 soubise 863 1056

1056

soubise,à dla 394 la 394 soubise, sou-fassum863 863 sou-fassum soufl6s863 863 soufflès almond866 866 almond ambassadrice 866 ambassadrice 866 I'am6ricaine486 486 à dl'américaine apple 42,866 apple 42, 866 Russian866 866 Russian apricot 866 apricot 866 aubergine63 63 aubergine hongroise 63 63 àdlalahongroise aupannesan 63 au parmesan 63 486 àd.I'aurore l'aurore 486 banana 76 76 banana brains863 863 brains chanoinesse 863 863 àdlala chanoinesse calf's liver liver 644,863 644, 863 calf's calf's sweetbreads sweetbreads calf's 646-7 646--7 carrot 190 190 carrot cauliflower 196 196 cauliflower cheese 863-4, 8634,864p cheese 864p cherry 217, 217,866 cherry 866 Montmorency 217 217 Montmorency chestnut 218,864 218,864 chestnut soubise 864 864 soubise sweet 218 218 sweet chicken 236, 236.864 chicken 864 liver 863 863 liver la mirepoix d 864 à la mirepoix 864 with with truffies truffles 864 864 chicory 239,864 chicory 239, 864 with with Parmesan Parmesan 864 864 chocolate chocolate 866 866 coffee coffee 866,867p 866, 867p crayfish: crayfish: dà la la Nantua Nantua 486 486 dà la la normande normande 864 864 with with Parmesan Parmesan 486 486 cream-based cream-based 865 865 Curagao Curaçao 866 866 endive endive 360 360 with with Parmesan Parmesan 360 360 fish fish 864 864 foie foie gras gras 383 383 fruit-based fruit-based 865-6 865-6 fruit: fruit: mixture mixture 594 594 game game 864 864 dàlalaP6rigueux Périgueux 864 864 ham ham 864 864 d.la à lastrasbourgeoise strasbourgeoise 864 864 hare hare 449 449 hazelnut hazelnut 866 866 dàlalahongroise hongroise864 864 iced iced495 495 Jerusalem JerusaJemartichoke artichoke 520,964 520,864 lemon lemon866 866 lettuce lettuce554,864 554,864 liqueur-flavoured liqueur-flavoured866 866

lobster565,864 565,864 lobster mandarin866 866 mandarin meat864 864 meat Mont-Bry866 866 Mont-Bry mushroom 604 604 mushroom omelette357 357 omelette orange653,866 653,866 orange oyster661 661 oyster cancalaise486 486 àdlalacancalaise Palmyra866 866 Palmyra Parmesan 864 864 Parmesan partridge669 669 partridge peach679, 679,866 peach 866 pear 682, 682,866 pear 866 plum Lorraine Lorraine 708 708 plum potato 864 864 potato with cheese cheese 864 864 with hongroise 864 864 àd lala hongroise praline 866 866 praline princesse 486 la princesse 486 àd la pumpkin 745 745 pumpkin Rothschild 866 866 Rothschild Rouen duckling duckling 326 326 Rouen savoury 863-5 863-5 savoury shrimp 864 864 shrimp small 486 small roe 486 soft roe spinach 865, 865,865p spinach 865p d à la florentine florentine 865 lobster spiny lobs ter 865 strawberry strawberry 866 sweet sweet 865-6 865-6 sweetbreads 865 sweet sweet potato potato 864,911 864,911 tea tea 866 866 tomato tomato 865,928 truffie tfume 865,939 865, 939 with Parmesan 865 865 with Parmesan turnip turnip 945 945 vanilla vanilla 866 866 vegetable vegetable 865 865 violet violet 866 866 walnut walnut 866 866 woodcock woodcock l00l 1001 soupe soupe 866 866 aigo aïgo bouido bouïdodàlala m6nagdre ménagère 882 882 aigo aïgobouido bouïdowith with poachedeggs poached eggs 882 882 aigo aïgodàlalam6nagdre ménagère 881 88\ aigo-saou aïgo-saou 881 881 albigeoise albigeoise 882 882 Soupir Soupirde deNonne Nonne 888 888 soup soupladle ladle888 888 soups soups868 868 Andalusian Andalusian879 879 Arles Arles882 882 artichoke: artichoke:cream creamofof 8734 873-4 velout6 velouté878 878

INDEX

INDEX

asparagus:cream creamofof asparagus: 874 874 cream creamof (white), called calledArgenteuil Argenteuil 874 874 velout6 velouté878 878 creamof of874 874 barley, cream bean:cream creamof of874 874 bean: pur6e of of875 875 beer beer 118,883,884p 118,883,884p : dàI'allemande beetroot: J'allemande beetroot 883 883 russe 883 883 dàlalarusse bijane 124 124 bijane bonnefemme femme 882 882 dàlalabonne bougps u v ''''l'V ,"'.., 138 i 38 bouillon bo'ullI'on de de noce noce (wedding) (wedding) 140 140 bread for 146 146 breadfor Brussels sProuts, sprouts, Pur6e Brussels of of 875 875 buttermilk buttermilk 170 170 with with cabbage cabbage and and miques miques 882 882 carrot, pur6e purée of, called ca lied carrot, Cr6cy 875 875

cauliflower, Pur6e of, called DubarrY 875 874 cream celery:: creamof pur6e of of 875 velout6 velouté 878 207 fouras 207 chaudr6e de fouras chaudrée cheese 882 cheese 884-5 cherry cherry 884-5 875 of 875 chestnut, Pur6e of chestnut, 236 of 236 cream of chicken: cream chicken: 885 English 885 English pur6e of, ol àd lala purée 875-6 reine 875-6 reine 878-9 velout6 878-9 velouté 874 of 874 cream of chicory:: cream pur6e of 876 of 876 artichoke, Chinese artichoke, 874 of874 creamof cream 885 Chotodriec885 Cholodriec with "vegetables clam with clam ... J';...."v,,~;:) 885 885 and clarifying and darifying 296 enriching 296 enrÎching 881-3 classical 881-3 c1assÎcal 868-70 clear868-70 clear 885 cock-a-leekie885 cock-a~leekie 876 crab, pur6eofof876 874 creamofof874 crayfish: : cream pur6eofof876 876 879 velout6879 velouté 873-5 cream873-5 cream Dublin Bayprawn Dublin Prawn 879 velout6879 velouté 874 endive: cream ofof874 endive:cream 879 velout6879 velouté

i àlalafarine farine882 882

fish, fish,with withvermicelli vermicellii àlala marseillaise marseillaise882 882 flour flour888 888 frog velout6 veloutéd àlala sicilienne "'v'Uv,,,, .....879 879 game: game:pur6e 876 876 velout6 velouté879 879 garden gardencress, cress,Pur6e purée 876 876 provengale la garlic i garlic à la provençale 882 882 gulyas gulyas 885,885P 885,885p gumbo gumbo 885 885 hare hare 885 885 Hungarian, with witbliver liver 886 dumplings dumplings 886 international international 883-8 883-8 jambe de debois bois 517 517 Jerusalem Iprl1"~llpm artichoke: artichoke: cream cream of of 874 874 pur6e purée of of 876 876 khlodnik khlodnik 524 524 leek, leck, cream cream of of 874, 874, 874p 874p lentil, lentil, pur6e purée of, of, dà la la Conti Conti 876 876 lettuce: lettuce: cream cream of of 874 874 pur6e purée of of 876 876 velout6 velouté 879 879 Lithuanian Lîthuanian 886 886 886 of 886 [ver, pur6e of Liver,

Livonian, with

klyotski

886

of 874 874 cream of lobster: cream lobster: pur6e of of 876 876 879 velout6 879 velouté 571 magistdres 571 Hla~rDlCll;;;;) 874 of 874 cream of marrow, cream marrow, and balls and meat balls with meat with 505p vermicelli 505p vermicelli 888 tripe 888 Milanaise tripe Milanaise 886 mille'fanti 886 mille-fanti 886,886P minestrone 886, minestrone 886p 886-7 mock-turtle 886-7 mock-turtle 887 mulligatawnY 887 mulligalawny of creamof mushroom: crearn mushroom: 874 874 Pierre-levelout6 Pierre-Ievelouté grand879 879 grand 607 mussel607 musse! grecque mutton,à dlalagrecque mutton, 887 887 874 creamofof874 nettle,cream neule, 628 oatmeal628 oatmeal 628,874 creamofof628, cream 874 628 auaunaturel naturel 628 874 creamofof874 occa,cream occa, 885 okra885 okra 650 olla-podrida650 olla-podrida 882,883p onion882, onion 883p 882 gratin6e882 oniongratinée onion

657 ouka ouka 657 clear 887 oxtail: oxtail: clear 887

thick

887

thick 887 661,880-l oyster oysler 661, 880-1 with okra 887 with okra 887 velout6 879 velouté 879 partridge velout6 879 velouté 879 pea (fresh), pur6e (fresh), Saint-Germain 876, 877p 877p of pea (split). of 876 876 P6rigord 'sobronade' Périgord 'sobronade' 882 882 pistou 704,887 pistou 887 Portuguese 881 Portuguese 881 potato, pur6e potato, purée Parmentier 877,877p Parmentier 877, puchero 887 puchero 887 pumpkin, pur6e of pumpkin, of 877-8 877-8 pur6e 875-8 875-8 Conti d la brunoise Conti à la brunoise 876 876 Conti d la julienne Conti à la julienne 876 876 876 Cr6cy aux aux Perles 876 Cr6cy with rice 876 with rice 876 purslane, pur6e of 878 purslane, purée of 878 124 redcurrant redcurrant 124 red haricot bean, Pur6e red haricot bean, of, called d la Cond6 of, called à la 87s 875 regional 881-3 regional 881-3 rice, cream of 874 cream of 874 792 salep 792 843 shrimp 843 cream of 874 cream of 874 velout6 879 velouté 879 smelt velout6 879 smelt velouté 879 sobronade 851 sobronade 851 sourcream 888 sour cream 888 special 879-81 879-81 spelt 883 spelt 883 spinach: cream of 874, spinach: cream of 874, 875P 875p velout6 879 velouté 879 spiny lobster: cream of lobster: cream of 875 puree of 878 of 878 velout6 879 velouté 879 swallows'nest 910 swal!ows' neSl 910 sweet Potato, Pur6e of sweel potato, of

pea (split), pur6es

877

877 sweet sour 888 sweet sour 888 thick 873-81 thick 873--81 tomato,purée Pur6eofof tomato, 878,878p 878, 878p pur6e d la turnip,purée à la Freneuse 878 Freneuse 878 888 turtle turtle 888 1057 1057

veal with herbs 888 veal with herbs 888 873,878-9 velout6 velouté 873, 878-9 of watercress, cream watercress, cream of 87s 875 haricot bean, white white of, haricot calledbean, pur6e purée of, called 875 Soissonnaise Soissonnaise 875 d la bretonne whiting whiting à la bretonne 883,884p 883,884p 889 souvarov souvarov 889 d souvarov (souvorow), souvarov la 889 (souvorow), à la 889 sow-thistle 889,889P sow-thistle889,889P soyabean soya 889 889, 889p curdbean curd 889 889 extract extract 889889 meat meat 889 889 milk milk 889 (extract) 889 sauce sauce (cxtract) 889 889 spaghetti spaghetti 889 5l3P alla bolognese alla 51 croustades i la croustades 476 napolitaineà la ..... ~'v .. ~ .. ,,'''' 476 d la napolitaine 889 àla cookerY 510889 Spain: . cookery 5iO 889 sparklet sparklet 889 890 speculos 890883 spelt: soup 890 883

Spetdi

spice cake 179 spice cake 179 spices 890 spices 890 fine 890 fine 390 four 890 four 390 890 mixed mixed 890890 spicy spicy 890 890,890P spidercrab spider cra b 890 spikenard 890, 890p ~I-'''I\.\'''''''U 890 spinach 890-1,89lP 890-1, 891p d I'anglaise 891 'li 'f;' "'l,,,,", 891140 bouillabaisse v'"" ...... av.'"''',''' 140 148 btddes brèdes 148891 in butter in butter d891 la florentine canap6s canapés à la florentine 472

472 cream 891 in incroquettes cream 891891 gratin 891 crottes au 891 dartois i la florentine 477

flan i la florentine 378 flan à la florentine 378 395-6 fritters fritters 395-6 479 d la florentine àvegetarian, la florentined la 479 àla 480 romaine 480 gratin 891 auromaine auingratin gravy 89\ 891 În gravy 89l 168 greenbutter butter 168 d la romaine loaves à la romaine s59-60 559--60 in noisette butter 891 noisette butter 891 inomelette 355 omelette 355

INDEX d la florentine 353 à la florentine pancakes 891 353

cream of 875 stonecrop 901 cream of 875 velout6 879 stone-curlew 901,901p pancakes 891 pur6e 748 velouté 879894 on the spit stopper 901 purée stopper 901 on the spit 894 salad748 891 stew 894 stove, kitchen 901, 90lp salad 891865,865p Idtchen 901, 90lp stew soufl6 with894 various sauces 894 stove, strainer 901,901p soufflé with vadous sauces 894 strainer 90 l, 901 P d la 865,865p florentine 865 spirits 894-5 straining bag 902 à la florentine 894-5 298 902 soup: cream of 865 874. spit roasting strasbourgeoise, ri la 4lg : cream of 874, à la 418 875p spits 895-6,895p strawberries 902,902p 902.902p velout6 879 turnspit 946 Bavarian cream 9l 879 Bavarian cream 91 subrics 891 spleen 896 cardinal 902 subrics 891 cardinal 902 d la florentine 486 spondias 896 in Champagne 902 à la sugar florentine with 891 486 spongecakes 896 compote 260,902 with sugar 891 sponge cakes 896 talmouses 487 almond sandwich cake Cond6 902 talmouses 487 almond sandwich cake spinach, giant Mexican 896 andcream 902 spinach, Mexican 896 and cream 902 89r batters for 320 Czaina902 902 891 Czarina batters for 320 spinach, wild 891 fingers 896,896p, g97p fondant icing 498 ggl-2 wild 891 fingers 896p, 897p fondant 498 spiny lobster 465, Italian 896, sandwich cake fritters 392 lobster 465, 892 891-2 ltalian fritters 397 d I'am6ricaine 896_7sandwich cake ice 492 àaspic l'américaine 896-7 sandwich ice 492 58,892 892 punch cakes mixture902-3 902-3 58,892 mixture punch sandwich cakes bisque 878 897 ri I'imp6ratrice 903 897 903 boiled, 878 with various sandwich cake manqu6 jam 517 boiled, sandwich cake sauceswith 892 various 897 with 892 with liqueurs 903 897 897,897p dsauces la bordelaise 892 savoy d la maltaise 903 àd la savoy 897, à la maltaise 903 la bordelaise bourgeoise892 892 spooms 495 omelette 357 àbutter la bourgeoise 892 omelette 357 spooms 495 170,892 spoons 897 pastejelly 520 butter 170, 892 520 spoons 897 cardinal 892 sprats 468,989 pulp for ices 903 cardinal 892 sprats 468,989 903 cassolettes 473 spraygun 512 ratafia 903 cassolettes 473 spray collops: d I'andalouse sprucegun beer512 898 sauce 827 gg2,gg2p colIops: à l'andalouse spruce beer 898 sauce 827 'spurs of Bacchus' 89g souffi6 866 892, soufflé 'spurs of Bacchus' 898 866 d la 892p parisienne 892, squab, see pigeon tart 918 à 893p la 892, tart 918 pigeon squash see 898,898p dl'allemande 9t7 squashsee 898, 898p à l'allemande 917 coquilles of 893 squid, calamary tartlets 919 tartlets 919 squid, see calamary in court-bouillon 893 squill-fish 898 with various dessert in court-bouillon 893 squill-fish 898 with various dessert incream 893 squirrel 898 wines 903 in crcam 893 wines 903 croquettes 475,893 stalk 898898 strawberry spinach, see stalk 898 898,898p curried 893 475,893 see Stamppot Swiss chard 893 SwÎss chard cutting 892p star anise 69-70,69p, g9g strawberry tomato 903 strawberry tomato 903 demi-deuil 893 starch 898 compote 903 gratin 903 au 893 starling 804,898 glac6 in caramel 903 au gratin grilled caramel 903 893893 star of Bethlehem 898 glace in fondant icing grilled 893 893 star 898 kromeskies steeping 898 903 kromeskîes 581 893 steeping 898 903 mayonnaise steerin 898 jam 903 steerin 898 903 Mornay 893 581 '''''''''''''"''"" sterilise 899 syrup 903 893 893 syrup 903 sterilise 899 d la moscovite sterlet 899 straw-case 902 à la moscovite 893 stra w-case 902 sterlet 899 mousse and stickleback 899 straws, see allumettes mousse and 893 stickleback 899 straws, see allumettes mousseline stockfish 899 Stritzel 903 mousseline stockfish 899 899 Stritzel 903 d la nage 893 893 i la nigoise stromateus nage 893 à la niçoise 899 stromaleus 904,904p 904,904p i àlalanigoise 8934 stocks 899 Strudel 904 àla 893-4 Strudel 904 stocks 899 omelette 355 clarifying and stuff, to 9M .. l''·!f''' 355 894 to 904 d''la....'parisienne enriching and 296 stuffings, see forcemeats 894 enriching 296 patties 483 .:>LUHUj,5"', see forcemeats fish 899 sturgeon 9M,904p fish sturgeon 904,904p d I'am6ricaine 483 with899 red wine 899 d la Brimont 904 l'américaine 483 pie à692 with red wine 899 à ta Brimont 904 game 899 in Champagne pilaf 692 game 899 in Champagne904 904 894 light brown 899-900 curried 904 curried 904 light brown 899-900 risotto894 894 meat 868-9 fillets Boris 904 meat 868-9 fiHets Boris 904 la russe894 d risotto 894 tomato veal 900 fricandeau: d la à la russe 894 tomato veal 900 salad 790,894 veal 900 hongroise 904 salad 790, veal 900 900 salpicon 800,894 801 white aujus salpicon white 900 au 904-5 soufl6 865 800,801 white poultry 900 with white poultry 900 soufflé 865 withsorrel sorre!905 905 d I'am6ricaine 486 Stollen 900,900p steaksincream 905 l'américaine 486 Stollen 900, 900p steaks in cream 905 soupà 878 stomach 901 subrics 486,905 stomach 901 soup 878 subrics 486,905 1058

1058

beefà rilalaménagère m6nagdre905 905 beef brain:à dl'italienne I'italienne486 4g6 brain: andbonc-marrow bone-marrow and 486 486 endive360 360 endive florentine486 486 à dlalaflorentine foiegras gras905 905 foie gooseIiver liver486 486 rilalaménagère m6nagdre486 486 potato730,905 730,905 patato poultryliver liver486 486 poultry rice776 776 rice pi6montaise487 4g7 àdlalapiémontaise semolina 487,838 semolina 838 spinach891 891 spinach sweetbread 487 487 sweetbread and bone-marrow bone-marrow and 486 486 suc905 905 suc ofmeat 905 905 ofmeat suc6es 905 905 sucées su6doise 905 905 suédoise sugar 905-8 905-8 sugar anise 908 908 anise aniseed-flavoured 31 3l aniseed-ftavoured barley 85 85 barley boiling 907 902 boiling cinnamon 908 cinnarnon clove 908 908 c10ve flavoured flavoured 908 ginger 908 ginger 908 lemon lemon peel 908 908 manufacture in in lTth 17th century century 905p 905p model model in in 906p 906p orange orange 908 908 orangeflower orange ftowe( 908 908 orangepeel 908 908 perfumed 908 pulled: pulled: paniers paniers 664 664 syrup syrupprepared cold cold 907_8 907-8 vanilla vanilla 908,952 908, 952 sugar sugarpalm palm 46 46 sultanas sultanas 434 434 sultane sultane 908 908 sultane, 908 sultane,dàlala 419, 419,908 sultan-hen sultan-hen908 908 summer summersnipe snipe908 908 sumptuousness sumptuousness908 908 sundaes, sundaes,Jee seecoupes coupes sundew sundew909 909 sunflower sunftower909 909 superstitions su perstitionsofofthe thetable ta ble 909-10 909-JO support 910 910 supr6mes 910 910 Suresnes Suresnes910 910 swallow swaHow910 910 swallows'nests swallows' nests622-3. 622-3,

623p

INDEX

INDEX

consomm6 consomméwith with870 870 soup sour910 910 swan910-ll 910-11 swan 91 l swede911 swede Sweden:cookery 509-10 509-10 Sweden: I sweetbreads 9l911 sweetbreads attereaux 470 470 attereaux brochettes 472 472 brochettes calves' 181 181 calves' dàl'anversoise l'anversoise 644 644 attereaux attereauxVilleroi Villeroi 60 60 dla àlabanquidre 644 644 braised in brown

stock 644 braised braised in in white white stock stock 644 644 Clamaft Clamart 644 644 dà la la fermidre fermière 646 646 iàlala financidre financière 646 646 fritters friUers 396 396 grilled, grilled, with with various various garnishes garnîshes 646 646 dà la la japonaise japonaise 646 646 ià lala jardinidre jardinière 646 646 dà la la macedoine macédoine 646 646 dà la Nantua 646 la p6rigourdine d àla 646 pie àd I'ancienne l'ancienne 693 poached poached 646 po6l6 646 princesse 646 nR6gence • ...,~,...,'l\_'-' 646 646 roast 646 roast 646-7 souffi6 646-7 soufflé 647 Talleyrand 647 Toulouse Toulouse (toulousaine) 647 647 (toulousaine) pur6es various purées with various with 646 646 various with various with 647 vegetables 647 vegetables 473 cassolettes 473 cassolettes ofcalves': escalopes of ...,,,\...alV!JV" calves': àd 644,645P I'ancienne ,,""'~1\...'J11"" 644, breadcrumbs inin breadcrumbs 644 5 644-5 645 butter 645 ininbutter allemande fried,ininallemande 645 sauce645 sauce 645 au gratin645 au 645 àdl'italienne645 645 mar6chale645 àdlalamaréchale 645 milanaise645 àdlalamilanaise 645 Rossini645 Rossini Saint-Germain Saint-Germain 64s4 645-6 pastrYcase case servedininpastry served 645p 645p 646, withtrolles trufres646, with 646P 646p

d la hollandaise 912 à la hollandaise 912 d àI'italienne l'italienne912 9t2 d la lyonnaise 912

Villeroi Villeroi646 646 fritots fritots478 478 fritters fritters 396,479 396,479

àla

hash hash451 451 lambs' lambs' 634 634 attereaux attereauxVilleroi Villeroi 60,60p 60,60p fritters fritters 396 396 hot hotpit6 pâtédàI'ancienne l'ancienne 634 634 pie 693 693 pilaf pilaf 634 634 scallop shells shellsof of 486 486 Villeroi Villeroi 634P vol-au-vent, vol-au-vent, with with trufles truffies and and mushrooms mushrooms 63zt-5 634-5 pvbe 746 746 salpicon salpicon 801 801 Cussy Cussy 801 801 scallop scallop shells shells 486 486 soufl6 soufflé 865 865 subrics subrics 486,487 486,487 sweet C-rcily Cecily 217 217 sweetcorn sweetcorn (corn-on-the(corn-on-thecob\ 275,275p cob) 275, 275p d à la la ffichamel béchamel 275 275 boiled boiled 275 275 bread bread 275 275 275 in butter 275 in butter 275 incream cream 275 in 736 fteezing 736 gnlled 275 355 omelette 355 omelette with chîcken chicken suso with en suso en giblets 275--6 275-6 giblets 911 sweeten 911 sweeten potato 911 911 sweet potato sweet 911 baked(injackets) baked (in jackets) 911 911 boiledwithhoney boiled with honey 911 911 àdlacrdme la crème 911 9l I croquettes 911 croquettes 9ll fried 911 fried 9l I au gratin 91l (Henri) ài I'imp6riale (Henri) 9ll 911 355 omelette 355 omelette 7$,9ll pudding 744, pudding 91 t pur6e911 9ll 911 salad911 salad 9l I souffi6 864,911 877 of877 soup, pureeof stewed 9ll 1 911 swift911 swift 9l I chard911 Swisschard Swiss 9ll à dlab6chamel la béchamel 911 911 blanc911 auaublanc 9ll buttered911 buttered 9ll-12 inincream cream 911-12 912 auau gratin912 gravy912 912 iningravy

912

912 dlamilanaise àla 912 912 dàlalamoelle moelle 912

Mornay Mornay 912 912

d la polonaise 912 à la polonaise 912 Swiss Swissroll912,912p roll 912, 91

Switzerland: Switzerland:cookery cookery I 510-l 510-11 swizzle swizzIestick stick 912 912 swordfish swordfish 912 912 syringe 912 912 syrup syrup 912 912 almond almond 912 912 forbabas for babas 69 69 blackcurrant blackcurrant 912 912 cherry cherry 912 912 citric cÎtric acrd acid 912 912 coffee coffee 913 913 gooseberry gooseberry 912 912 gum gum 913 913 lemon 551 lernon 551 mulberry mulberry 912 911 orange orange 913 913 orgeat orgeat 655,913 655,913 plain plain 913 913 raspberry raspberry 912 912

tangerines 915 tangerines 915 flan 918-19 flan 918-19 397 fritters fritters 397 ice 492 Îce 492 iced 496,915 iced 496, 915 liqueur 556 556 soufl6 pudding 742 vuo..'U"'><, 742 en surprise 915 en in syruP 915 Însyrup915 tankard 915 tankard 915 tapenade 468 468 tapioca 915 915 pudding 744 744 Braz.lian 741 741 thickening with 922 thickening with 922 tapir 915 tapir 915 tarragon 915,9l5P tarragon 915, 915p botrled 915 bottled 915 butter 170 bUlter 170 cream 915-16 cream 915-16 dried 916 dried 916 essence 363 essence 363 pickled 916 pickled 916 pur6e 748,916 purée 748,916 sauce 816 sauce 816 vinegar 916 916 tartare 916 tartare 16 916 tartare, d la tartare, à la 916 tartaric acid 919 tartaric acid 919 tartine 919 tartine 919 Swiss 919 Swiss 919 tartlets 919 tartlets 919 Agnds Sorel 487 Agnès Sore! 487 almond 17 almond 17 apple 919 919 apricot 919 919 barquettes 85-6

Argenteuil 487 B6atrix 487

T 914 tablecloths 914 tablecloths 557,558P drawingson drawings on 557, 558p 914 decorations table table decorations 914 914 tacaud tacaud 914 (Guillaume Taillevant (Guillaume Taillevant 914 Tirel)914 914 tailloir 914 tailloir Talleyrand-P6rigord, Maurice 915, Charles .VL~UL"~ Charles

9l5p 915p 487 talmouses 487 talmouses 487 I'ancienne i à l'ancienne 487 487 i la pitisseie487 àla 487 Saint-Denis Saint-Denis 487 487 spinach487 915 tamarind tamarind 915 915 cloth915 tammycloth tammy

1059 1059

Béatrix 487 cases or shells 919 919 cases or shells caviarc 463 caviare 919 463 cherrY cherry 919 cocks'combs 246 cocks' combs 246 curried 487 curried 487 487 il'6cossaise àgarnished l'écossaise468,487 487 468,487 ilajaPonaise 487 la 487 little croustzdes 292 little croustades 292 Metternich 487 Metternich 487487 d la mirePorx àla 487 Nemours 622 Nemours pear 919 pear plum919 919 plum 919 487 Printania Printania 487 raspberry 919 raspberry487 919 Regina Regina 487 919 strawberry 919 tarts 916 tarts 916 Alsatian 916 Alsatian 916 anchovy with Pissalat anchovy with 470 470

INDEX INDEX apple 916-17,916p apple 916--17, 916p917 d I'alsacienne with lattice-work à l'alsacienne 917 with lattice-work decoration 917 apricot decoration 917 917 apricot 917 d I'alsacienne 9I7 Austrian à l'alsacienne 917 918,918p Austrian 918p 75 banana d918, la crime banana à la crème cases baked blind 75 916 cases baked blind 916 cherry 917,917p cherry 917, 917p 917. dl'alsacienne à l'alsacienne 917, 917p 917p Danish 217 meringue Danish 217with rice meringue with rice 217 of 217 Demoiselles Tatin of9t7 Demoiselles Tatin fig 917917 flamiche fig 917 377 foie gras:377 fiamiche i I'ancienne 384gras: à l'ancienne foie 384 with truffies 384 fruit: wi thdtruffles 384 917 I'allemande d I'alsacienne fruit: à l'allemande 918917 latticed à l'alsacienne 918 549,549p Me'gin 918 latticed 549, 549p Me'gin 918 Messinaapple 917 Messina apple mushroom 604917 nectArine 918 mushroom 604 peach nectarine 918 679,918 pear peach918 679,918 pineapple pear 918 701,908 pinea 70 l701 , 908 ri la pple royale plum à la 918,918p royale 701 raspberry plum 918, 918 918p rhubarb raspberry722p 918 rhubarb English722p 918 riceEnglish 918 775 with rice 775apricots 775 strawberry with apricots 918 775 taste 919 strawberry 918 tdte-vin taste 919919,920p Taverne tâte-vin Angtaise 919, 920p771 tea 919-21,920p Taverne Anglaise 771 icecream tea 919-21, 493 920p soufr6 ice cream 866 493 trefoil soufflé932 866 wormseed trefoil 9321002 tea-caddy wonnseed 920p1002 teal 921 tea-caddy 920p teapots te al 921921,921p tench 921,921p teapots 921, 921p tendon tench 921, 921 92lp terfena tendon 921 921 terrapin terfezia 921-2 921 tenine terrapin 922921-2 t6te d'aloyau terrine 922 922 thao d'aloyau 922 tête 922 thickening thao 922 922 thistle thickening 922 922 thonne thistle 922 922 thonne 922

thourins 922 thourins 922 d la provengale 922 à la provençale 922 thrush 923 thrush 923 d l'ardennaise 923 à dl'ardennaise 923 923 la bonne femme à en la bonne 923 caissesfemme 923 encasserole caisses 923 923 casserole 923 923 chaud-froid chaud-froid 923 en cocotte 923 enwith cocotte 923923 grapes with grapes923 923 at gratin au gratin 923 923 ri la li6geoise à pdtb la liégeoise 923 923 pâté 923 pie 693,923 pie d693,923 I'ardennaise 693 ài l'ardennaise 693 la c6venole 693 à lapolenta cévenole710 693 with with polenta potted 923 710 potted 923 roast 923 roast 923 923 thyme thyme thymus923 923 thymus 923 tiger 924 tiger 924 924 timbales timbales Agnds 924 Sorel 924 Agnès Sorel487 924 i I'amiral à l'amiral 487 Bagration 487-8 Bagration Beauvilliers487-8 488 Beauvilliers 488 926 Brillat-Savain Brillat-Savarin 926 carrot 190 carrot crayfish:190 i I'ancienne crayfish: à l'ancienne 285 285 ri la mode de àChavillieu lamodede285 Chavillieu 285 Elys6e 926 926 dElysée l'6picurienne 488 l'épicurienne dà la fermidre 488488 à la fermiére fillets of sole: 488 ià fi/lets of sole: I'ancienne 858-9 l'ancienne 858-9 Grimaldi 859 859 859 dGrimaldi la normande à la normande Victoria 859 859 Victoria487 859 garnished garnidshed 487 lamb I'ancienne 545 lambcase à l'ancienne 545 large or crust 924. large 925p case or crust 924, 925p macaroni: d macaroni: à 926 I'am6ricaine l'américaine d la milanaise926 926 la milanaise d la àmilanaise 488 926 à la milanaise Monselet 926 488 926 488 d Monselet la Montrouge Montrouge 488 d àlalanantuatienne 48g à la nantuatÎenne 488 partridge 669 partridge 669 pears d'Aremberg 682 d'Aremberg 682 d pears la pi6montaise 488 piémontaise i àlalapolonaise 488 488 polonaise 4gg 488 dà lalaprintanidre à laRossini printanière d la 488 488 à la Rossini 488Boisin Rouen duckling Rouen duckling Boisin 326 d la326 Saint-Hubert 48g à la Saint-Hubert 488 1060

soledl'am6ricaine 926 stuffed 469,469p,929, sole à l'américaine 926 stuffed 469, 469p, 929, trufles 939 929p 929p truffles 939 vegetables 926 bonnefemme femme vegetables 926 à dlalabonne woodcock l00l 929 woodcock 1001 929 tin 926 cold929 929 tin 926 cold tinamou 926,926p I'italienne930 930 tinamou 926,926p à dl'italienne tinning 926 languedocienne tinning 926 à ilalalanguedocienne tinplate 926 929 tinplate 926 929 tisane 92G7 nigoise929 929 tisane 926--7 à dlalaniçoise toast 927 parisienne toast 927 à ilalaparisienne and ale 929_30 929-30 and ale 8 8 anchovy 25 pi6montaise930 930 anchovy 25 àdlalapiémontaise garlic 408 reine930 930 àdlalareine garlic 408 garnished 468 vinaigrette469, 469,930 àdlalavinaigrette 930 garnished 468 toaster 927 tomato,strawberry, strawberry,see see toaster 927 tomato, tobacco 927 strawberry tomato tomato tobacco 927 strawberry toddy palm 927 tomber 930 toddy palm 927 tomber 930 tomatoes 927,927p 930 tomatoes 927,927p àdglace glace 930 Andalusian soup 879 tongue: calf's calf's 647 647 Andalusian soup 879 tongue: d I'antiboise 468-9 lamb's 634,635 634,635 à l'antiboise 468-9 lamb's butter 170 braised with with various various butter 170 braised essence 3634 garnishes 635 635 essence 363-4 garnishes fondue 386,927-8 en crépinettes cr6pinettes 635 635 fondue 386,927-8 en ri la grecque 928 devilled 635 635 à la grecque 928 devilled d la nigoise 928 fritot 635 635 à la niçoise 928 fritot d la portugaise 928 augratin 635 à la portugaise 928 au gratin 635 d la turque 928 la hongroise hongroise 635 à la turque 928 àd la fteezing 736 freezing 736 àd I'italienne l'italienne 635 fried 928 pickled fried 928 pickled 635 fritters 396 friuers 396 ài la la poulette poulette 635 as garnish 419 skewered as garnish 419 skewered 635 635 gJaze, concentrated dà la glaze, concentrated la vinaigrette vinaigrette 635 928 ox 928 ox 630,630p 630, 630p gratin of, and dà I'alsacienne gratin of, and l'alsacienne 630 630 aubergine 928 attereaux aubergine 928 attereaux dà grilled 928 l'6cossaise grilled 928 l'écossaise 60 60 ashorsd'oeuvre 468 dà la as hors d'oeuvre 468 la bourgeoise bourgeoise 630 630 jam 517 braised with various jam 517 braised with various juice 787 garnishes juice 787 garnishes 630 630 ketchup (catsup) 524, braised ketchup (catsup) 524, braisedwith with various various 928 sauces 928 sauces 630 630 loaf 928 dàlaladiable loaf 928 diable 630 630 mousse, cold 928 au mousse, co Id 928 augratin gratin 630 630 mousseline, cold 928 pickled mousseline, cold 928 pickled(scarlet) (scarlet) 630 630 omelette 355,355p salad omelelle 355, 355p salad 466 466 Portuguese 354 pickled: Portuguese 354 pickled:canapls canapés 462 462 d la provengale 354 salpicon: à la provençale 354 salpicon:i àl'6carlate l'écarlate pulp 928 801 pulp 928 801 pur6e, royale of 418 and purée, royale of 418 andsmoked smoked 469 469 raw, rougail 781 pig's raw, rougai1 781 pig's637-8 637-8 salad 928 tonkabeans salad 928 tonka beans930 930 salpicon 801 torpedo salpicon 801 torpedo930 930 sauce 807-8 Tortoni sauce 807-8 Tortoni771 771 saut6: aux fines herbes sauté: aux fines herbes toscane, à la419 419 toscane,dla 928 t6t-fait 928 tôt-fait930 930 i àla lalyonnaise touffe lyonnaise928 928 touffe930 930 i àlalaprovengale g3O toulousaine, provençale928 928 419,930 toulousaine,d la à la4lg, soufr6 865,928 Touraine 930-l soufflé 865,928 Touraine 930-1 soufr6 tomatoes 928-9 gastronomic map soufflé tomatoes 928-9 gastronomie map930p 930p soup, pur6e of 878, tourain p6rigourdin soup, purée of 878, tourain périgourdin 878p 882-3 878p 882-3

1060

INDEX INDEX Tour Tourd'Argent d'Argent 771,77IP 771, 77lp tour tourde defeuilletage feuilletage 930 930 tourin 922 922 tourin tourri 657 657 tourri

tourte tourte(porridge) 218 218 tourtes tourtes 931 apricot apricot 931-2 931-2 Corsican Corsican 932 932 eel eel 334 334 Rabelais, Rabelais, cold cold 334 334 asentr6es as entrées 931 931 ià lala mode mode b6arnaise béarnaise 932 932 sweet sweet 931-2 931-2 trufle truffte dà la la p6rigourdine 939 939 with various varÎous fruits fruits 932 932 tourteau tourteau 932 932 tourtière 932 932 tourtidre tragacanth 932 932 tragacanth trait 932 traiteur 932 Tranchant 932 932 Trancheur Trancheur 932 932 tranchoir 914,932 ira vailler 932 travailler trefoil 932 trefoil trencher 932 triclinium 933 triclinium 933,933p triggerfish 933,

trigle 933 trimmings 933 tripe 730,9334 933-4 en blanquette 630 630-l bourgeoise 630--1 àd la bourgeoise 631 fermiire 631 la fermière àd la breadcrumbs fried, in breadcrumbs 631 631 grilled àd l'espagnole I'espagnole grilJed 631 631 631 lyonnaise 631 la lyonnaise ài la 631, Caen 631, la mode mode de de Caen àd la 632p 632p polonaise 631 631 la polonaise àd la 631 i la portugaise 631 àla poulette631-2 631-2 la poulette ài la 632 dlaprovenqale 632 àla 632-3 in butter632-3 saut6ed in 888 Milanaise 888 soup, Milanaise soup, 934 triperie 934 triperie 934 trognon 934 trognon 934 frdres934 trois frères trois 934p mould 934p mould 934 demilieu milieu 934 trou de trou 934,934p trout 934, trout 934p 469 marinated 469 marinated 469 I'orientale469 àdl'orientale 469 smoked469 smoked river 934 934 trout,river trout, 934 bluetrout trout934 blue withvarious various boiled,with boiled,

sauces sauces 934 934 dàlalabourguignonne bourguignonne

934 934 Colbert Colbert 934-5 934-5 cold cold 935 935

fillets en papillotes ri I'ancienne l'ancÎenne 935 fried fried 935,935p grilled grilled 935,935p 935, dà I'h6telidre l'hôtelière 935 935 dà la la hussarde hussarde 936 936 jellied jellied in in red red wine wine 935 935 en matelote: dà la la en matelote: bourguignonne bourguignonne 935 935 dà la la normande normande 935 935 la tourangelle 935 iàla 935 dà la marinière 935 935 la mariniere in in red red wine wine 935-6 935-6 dà la la vauclusienne vauclusienne 935 935 au au vert vert 935 935 in in white white wine wine 936 936 trout, trout, salmon: salmon: Beauharnais Beauharnais 936 936 Berchoux Berchoux 936 936 cold, cold, with with various various 936,936p sauces 936, 936p 936 en en douillette douillette 936 glazed au chambertin au chambertin glazed 936,937p 936,937p 419 trouvillaise,dla à la 419 936,937p,938P truffies 936, truffles 937p, 938p l'6cossaise aattereaux t terea ux ài l'écossa ise 60 60 170 butter 170 butter 937 with Champagne 937 with chaussons (in en chaussons en turnovers) 937 turnovers) 473 royale 473 la royale choux ài la choux 938 in embers embers 938 cooked in cooked 937-8 la crème crdme 937-8 àd la 364 essence 364 essence Brillat-Savarin flan: fla n: Brilla t~Sa varin 378 378 378 dlaSagan 378 àla 389 forcemeat 389 forcemeat fritters 396,479,938 friuers 479,938 gras 395 395 foie gras with foie with 401 fumet 401 fumet garnish 419, 419,938 as garnish as 938 469 d'oeuvre 469 hors d'oeuvre ashors as and Madeira and with Madeira with 938 other liqueurs 938 938 d la mar6chale938 355 omelette 355 omelette Albina351 351 Albina d la bigourdane 352 àla Louis Forest 353 Louis 353 Monselet 353 Monselet 354 Rossini 354 Rossini pastryàdlala ininpastry 938 perigourdine 938 périgourdine

patties patües 483 483 pirozhki pirozhki 703 703 preparing preparingfor for game gameand and poultry poultry 936 936 pur6e 748,938 748,938 rago0t ragoût 760 760 rissoles: rissoles; dà I'ancienne l'ancienne 938 938 dà la la Valromev Valromey 938-9 938-9 salad salad 939 939 Rossini Rossini 791 791 salpicon salpicon 801 801 dà la la boh6mienne bohémienne 800 800 dà la la chalonnaise chalonnaise 800 800 Cussy Cussy 801 801 dà la la Joinville Joinville 801 801 la Montglas 801 dàla 801 dà la la reine reine 801 801 iàla la p6rigourdine 801 80 dà la la royale 801 801 sauce sauce 939 saut6 sautè:: Brillat-Savarin Brillat-Savarin 939 939 dàla la provengale 939 939 ià la la serviette serviette 839-40, 839-40, 939 939 865 souffi6 865 soufftè 865 Parmesan 865 with with Parmesan 939 small small 939 939 timbale timbale 939 936-7 tinned 936--7 tinned perigourdine la périgourdine tourte ài la tourte 939 939 la turnovers àd la turnovers p6rigourdine 946 truffies, white (Piedmont) 939 939 93940 risotto 939-40 risotto 940 saut6 sauté 940 940 mer 940 de mer truie de truie 940 fish trumpet trumpet fish 940 940 truss 940 truss 622 needle 622 trussing needle tuiles 940 tuiles 940 with almonds almonds 940 with 940 tulip 940 tulip 940 tun 940 tun (tuna fish) 940-1 fish) 940--1 tunny (tuna tunny 170 butter butter 170 477 dartois 477 dartois 469 hors d'oeuvre as as hors d'oeuvre 469 469 nantaise469 àdlala nantaise 469 oil 469 inoil in 355 omelette 355 omelette 35+-5 Savarin 354-5 deSavarin de provengale941 941 ài lalaprovençale ptrile 746 746 purée 941 turban 941 turban 941,941p turbot941, turbot 941p 941 I'am6ricaine 941 àdl'américaine

l06l J061

d I'amiral 941 à l'amiral 941 d la Bercy 941

àla 941 with various boiled. boiled, with various sauces 941 sauces 941 d la bonne femme 941 à la bonne femme 941 with various braised braised with various garnishes and sauces garnishes and sauces 941 941 d la cancalaise 941 à la cancalaise 941 941 cold cold 941 au gptin 941 creamed creamed au gratin 941 941,94tp Dugl6r6 Dugléré 941, 941 P 941 fillets fillels 941 942 fied fried 942 au gratin 942 942 grilled 942 942 kedgeree 942 942 942 en en matelote matelote 942 d la p6lerine 942 à la pélerine 942 pie pie 692 692 942 dla Saint-Malo 942 à la Saint-Malo 942 scalloped scalloped 942 d la venitienne 942 à la venitienne 942 942 Yictoia Victoria 942 wine 942 in in white white wine 942 942,942p turbotidre turbotière 942, 942-3,942p tureens tureens 942-3,

Turkey: cookery 5ll-12 turkey 943,943P d

I'anglaise 943

ballottines 74

i la toulousaine 943 à la toulousaÎne 943 943 braised 943 braised legs with various garnishes 944 stuffed 943 943 casserole 943 casserole chestnut stuffing with with chestnut stuffing 944 944 d la chipolata 943 à la chipolata 943 943 encocotte en cocotte 943 944 cold cold 944 la bourgeoise daube àd la daube bourgeoise 9M 944 944 fricass6e 944 fricassée giblets 944 944 grilled 944 grilled 944 galantine en hen: galantine en hen: 944 bellevue bellevue 944 grand-duc stuffed grand-duc stuffed 944-5 944-5 see liver liver, see liver, liver pit6, hot 944 hot944 pinions 944 944 701 broth 701 broth 701 chasseur 701 chasseur 701 consomm6 consommé 701 701 fricass6e 701 fricassée la nigoise 702 àdla niçoise 702 various 702 stuffed, various stuffed, 702 en tortue 702 en tortue 702

INDEX

INDEX

poupeton Brillatpoupcton Savarin Brillat944 Savarin 944 ragotrt 944 944 rcast 944 roast 944 d I'anglaise 944 à trufled 945 944 truffied945 945 turnips turnips 945945 boiled boiled 945 with chopped parsley wirh parsley 94s 945gratin (Mornay) au au945 gratin (Mornay) 945 mould 945 mould 945 pur6e 945 soufl6945 945 soufflé 945 d la soup, pur6e soup, à la Freneuse 878 Freneuse stuffed 945878 stuffed 945 d la duxelles 945 àri lala duxelles 945 945 pi6montaise 945 la piémontaise in àsugar 945 in sugar 945 783 turnips, sweet sweet 783 turnip tops 946 tops946 946 turnovers turnovers 946 apple 946,946p apple 946, 946p d la Cussy 946 àd la 946 946 la Cussy lyonnaise àla 946 d,la Nantua 946 àla 946 p6rigourdine d la 946 àla 946 d la reine 946 à la reine turnspit 946 946 turnstone946 946 turnstone 946 turron 946-7 turron946-7 946-7 turtle turtle 947,947p 946-7 turtle turtle eggs947, 357 eggs 357 soup 888 souphawksbill 888 turtle, 451 turtle, hawksbill turtle-dove 947 451 turtle-dove turtle flippers947 947 turtle flippers 947947 d I'am6ricaine l'américaine 947 dà la financidre 947 à la financière 947 dl'indienne 947 à l'Îndienne turtle herbs 947947 turtle herbs twarogue 947947 tW(!lfo:gUe 947 cakes Twelfth-Night

l7g-190, 402,675 tyrolienne

ila

419

U udder 948

udder 948 ugli 948 948 ukha 888,948 888,948 ullucu 948 ullucu 948 Ulmaria 948 U1maria 948 ulva 948 ulva 948 umbra 948,948p umbra 948, 948p umbrine 948 umbrine 948 uncorking 948 uncQfl
V v

vacherin 951 vacherin 95l with almond paste with almond pastc crown 951 crown 951 with crown of with crown of meringue 951 meringue 951 with strawberries 95lp with strawberries 951 p vaisselle 951 vaisselle 951 valenciennes, d la 419, valenciennes, à la 419, 951 951 valesniki 951 valesniki 951 Polish 488 Pohsh 488 Valois, dla 419,951 Valois, à la 419,951 vanilla 951-2,952p vanilla 951-2, icecream 493 ice cream 493 liqueur 556 liqueur 556 sugar 908,952 sugar 908,952 vareniki: Lithuanian vareniki: Lithuanian 488 488 Varenne, La 549 Varenne, La 549 variety meats 628 meats 628 vasque 952 Yatel952952 952 Vatrushki 952 Vatrushki 952 with cream cheese 952 with cream cheese 952 with onion 952 onion 952 vealwith 952. See also calf veal 952. See aiso calf amourettes 638.952 amourettes 638,952

ballottine7373 ballottine blanquette952-3, 952-3,957p blanquette d I'ancienne 953 à l'ancienne 953 withvarious various with garnishes953 953 garnishes breast953-4,964 9534,964 breast I'allemande954 954 à dl'allemande I'alsacienne954 954 àdl'alsacienne 954 àd l'anglaise954 brochettes954 954 brochettes chops954-5 95+5 chops I'ancienne955 955 àdl'ancienne with basil 955 with basil 955 Bellevue 955 955 Bellevue bonne femme femme àdlala bonne 955 955 bouchdre 955-6 955-6 bouchère bourguignonne 956 ....................,,, 956 braised 956 encasserole 956 en casserole 956 chasseur 956 956 cbasseur chaud-froid 956-7 956-7 chaud-froid en cocotte cocotte 957 957 en la crème cre,rne 957 957 ài la Cussy 957 957 i la Custine 957 957 àla gS7-B la Dreux Dreux 957-8 àd la la duxelles duxelles 958 958 àri la la fermidre 958 àd la fermière 958 auxfinesherbes 958 aux fines herbes 958 d la gelee 958 àla 958 grilled 958 958 d la hongroise 958 958 la hongroise dà l'indienne l'indienne 957 957 dà la la languedocienne languedocienne 958 958 dà!a la lyonnaise 958 958 Maintenon Maintenon 958 958 dà la la maraichere maraîchère 958 958 dà la la milanaise milanaise 958 958 minced: minced: Grimodde Grimod de lala Reynidre Reynière 958 958 dàla la Morland Morland 959 959 with withmushrooms mushrooms 959 959 en enpapillote papillote 959, 959, 959p 959p g5g Parmentier Parmentier 959 dlapaysanne 959 àla 959 dàla la pi6montaise 959 959 Pojarski 959 en enportefeuille portefeuille959 959 dàlalaportugaise portugaise959 959 d àlalaprovengale 959 959 saut6ed, "uUC"'"''''',with withvarious varÎous garnishes garnishes959 959 with withtrufles truffies959 959 vert-pr6 vert-pré959 959 Vichy Vichy959 959 d àlalaviennoise viennoise959 959

zingara 960 960 cr6pinettes Crel)mettes288 288

r062

1062

croquettes 475p cuts 953p,954p,955p, 956p daghkebab 303 dagh kebab 303 6minc6s359 359 émincés escalopes960 960 escalopes I'anglaise960 960 àdl'anglaise I'anversoise960 960 àdl'anversoÎse Brancas 960 960 Brancas Casimir960 960 Casimir withcourgettes courgettes or or with aubergines 960 960 with French beans beans 960 jardinidre d la ''.l,.'1". .. ' ..... ~ 960 960 with rosemary rosemary 960 960 viennoise 960 960 àdlala viennoise feuilleton :àdl'ancienne l'ancienne feuilleton: 373 373 'l'Echelle'960 'l'Echelle' 960 in jelly, cold cold 373 373 injelly, la périgourdine p6rigourdine àd la 373 373 fillet 960 960 fiJIet forcemeat: for hot hot forcemcat: entr6es 388 388 entrées with pork pork 388 with ring with various garnishes rr,>r·n,,,Io-.AC' 135 135 rfricadelles ncaae:lles 960 fricandeau fricandeau 960,961 961 fricass6e fricassée 960 grenadins 435,960 braised 4354 braised 435-6 and and ham ham pie 695 695 hash hash 451 451 dl'allemande à l'allemande 451 451 rià la la bechamel béchamel 451 with wi th cream cream sauce sa uce 451 451 dà la la Mornay Mornay 451 knuckle: knuckle: dà I'italienne l'italienne 960-l 960-1 dàla laprovengale provençale 961 961 leg leg 962p 962p loaf loaf 961 961 loin loin 961,96Ip 961,961p matelote matelote 961,963 961,963 m6daillons médaillons 961 961 noisettes noisettes 961 961 dàlalaB6n6vent Bénévent961 961 noix noix961 96J offal 629,638-47 offal 629,63847 osso-bucco osso-bucco960-l 960-1 paupiettes paupiettes961 961 braised braisedri àbtanc blanc961 96 J dbrun à brun961 961 pie pie694 694 pilaf pilaf700 700 potage potageBagration 879 879 pwfie purée746

INDEX INDEX quasi 962 962 quenelle quenelle forcemeat forcemeat 387-8 387-8 quenelles quenelles 754 754 Ab rib 962,962p 962, 962p cold cold 962 962 rouelle roueUe 962 962 saddle saddle 962 962 salpicon 801 801 sauteed sautéed 962 962 with with aubergines 962 with cdpes, morels or St George's agarics

962 chasseur 962 962 Clamart 962 dà la la crdme crème 962 962 auxfinesherbes aux fines herbes 962 la hongroise 962 d àla dà I'indienne l'indienne 962 Marengo 962-3 d à la minute 963 with mushrooms 963 d à la portugaise 963 d la printanidre 963 àla with red wine winc 963 Schnitzel Schni tzel 836 shoulder 963 d la boulangdre 963 àla d à la bourgeoise 963 stuffed 964 stuffed àd l?anglaise 964 soup with herbs herbs 888 888,961 sous-noix 888, sous-noix 96\ stock 900 tendrons 964 bourgeoise 964 ài la bourgeoise 964 chasseur 964 chasseur jardinidre 964 964 ài la jardinière 964 mushrooms 964 with mushrooms 964 with noodles 964 wi th noodles provengale 964 964 la provençale ài la 964 with risotto risotto 964 with with spinach or spinach or with sorrel 964 964 sorrel 922 thonne 922 thonne 900 veal stock stock 900 tomato veal tomato 771 V6four 771 Véfour see vegetable marrows, marrows, see vegetable vegetable marrows, vegetable marrows, vegetables 964 964 vegetables achar 22 achar attereaux 470 470 attereaux barquettes àd la la barquettes 471 bouquetidre 471 bouquetière boats, garnished 469 469 boats, bouillon 140 140 bouillon soups for soups brunoise brunoise for 156 156 965-6 calendar 965-6 calendar 475 croquettes 475 croquettes

printanidre 475 crofites d la paysanne 476

far Poitevin 367 freezing 734,735-6 fricass6e p,6rigourdine

394 394

fritots fritots 478 478 fritters fritters 479 479 vegetarian, vegetarian, dà la la printaniire printanière 480 480 dà la la romaine romaine 480 480 401,964 fumet fumet 40 1,964 julienne julienne 469 469 dà la la bretonne bretonne 964-5 loaves loaves 965 mac6doine: macédoine: with with butter 569 569 cold cold 569 with wi th cream 569 injelly in jelly 569 matignon matignon 580 minestrone 886 mirepoix 593 omelette: dà la fermidre fermière 3s2 352

i

la

jardinidre 353

patties: i la bouquetidre 483 àd la .,julienne __ .,_. __ ._ 483 pickles pickles 965 pot 453 pot potage: fermière fermidre 880 potage: paysanne 881 paysanne printanier butter butter 169 printanier pur6es 746-8 746-8 purées printanidre ragofit, àd la printanière ragoût, 760 760 792 salad 792 salad soufl6 865 865 soufflé 468,468p spring 468, spring stumps 965 965 and stumps stalks and stalks fermidre timbales: àd la fermière 488 488 printanidre 488 488 la printanière àd la 926 small 926 small 873,878-9, velout6s 873,878-9, veloutés 966-7 966--7 Seealso 967. See venison 967. venison also 967 roebuckhaunch roebuck haunch 967 967 Venus 967 Venus 967 Verbena 967 Verbena 556 liqueur 556 liqueur 967 verjuice 967 jelly 967 967 967 •vermicelli ..., •• "",..... " 967 croustades 292 292 little croustades little pudding 744 744 pudding Vermouth 967 967 Vermouth 419,967 vert-pr6, au art419,967 Vervain 967 967 Vervain

Ybry

771

Vesp'6tro 967 vetch vetch 967 967 Victoria Victoria cake cake 967 967 videlle videlle 967 967 Viennese pastry 967 viennoise, dla 419 vierge vierge 967 967 Villery, Villery, itla à la 394 394 vinaigrette vinaigrette 787,968 787,968 Vin Vin des des noces noces 967-8 967-8 vin vin du du march| marché 967 967 vinegar 968-9 vi negar 968-9 aromatic aromatÎc 969 969 raspberry 969 969 rose rose 969 969 tarragon 916 916 vines 968,968p,983p 983p leaves 549 vine vine tendril tendril fritters fritters 396 396 violets violets 969 969 liqueur liqueur 556 556 paste paste jelly jelly 520 520 866 souffi6 866 soufflé visiga: visiga: pirozhki pirozhki 703 703 557p 557, 557p visitors' visitors' books books 557, visniski visniski 969 969 fish fish 969 969 vitamins vitamins 313,969 969 970 viveurs 970 viveurs (restaurant) 771 77 | Voisin (restaurant) Voisin 970 vol-au-vent 970 vol-au-vent 285 crayfish 285 859 fillets ofsole of sole 859 fillets sweetbreads lambs' sweetbreads lambs' and with truffles truffies and with 634-5 mushrooms 634-5 mushrooms with truffles and truffies and lamb with lamb 545 mushrooms 545 mushrooms 591 mincemeat 591 mincemeat 604 mushroom 604 mushroom 255 saltcod salt cod 255 970 volidre, en en 970 volière, (CafE) 771 771 Voltaire (Café) Voltaire 970 voyage 970 voyage

w 971 waders 971 waders 972 wafers:Dutch wafers: Dutcb 972 irons 972:p,973 97?p,973 wafle irons wafHe wafres 971, 971,971p,972p waffles 971 p, 972p 1063 lO63

custard custard cream cream filling filling for for 286 286

filled filled 971-2 971-2 Lidge 972 972

Northern Northern 972 972 plain plain 972 972 vanilla vanilla 972-3 972-3 wagtail wagtail 973 973 Walewska,dla Walewska, à la 973 973 walnuts walnuts 973,973p 973, 973p

butter butter 170 170

ice ice cream cream 493 493

ketchup 974 974

liqueur 556 556 ià lala carm6lite carmélite 557 557 648,974 orl 648,974 oil pickled pickled 973 973 souffi6 soufflé 865 866

warbler warbler 974 974 wafthog wartbog 974 974 waste matter 974 waste matter 974

974 water water 974 albuminous albuminous 975 975 aromatic aromatic medicated medicated 975 975 97+5 drinkingwater drinking water 974-5 finger-bowl I1 for for 975 sea sea 975 table 975 table 975 water carier 974p 974p water carrier 975 water chestnut water chestnut 975 cooler 7, water cooler 7,7p water 7p watercress 975, 975,975p watercress 148 brddes 148 brèdes 462 canapbs 462 975 with butter butter 975 cooked with cooked with cream 975 cooked cooked with cream 975 975 cooked aujus au jus 975 cooked garnish 975 975 garnish pur6e 975 975 salad 792,975 792,975 salad 976 sandwiches 976 sandwiches of 875 875 cream of soup, cream soup, 976 waterfisch 976 waterfisch 976 sauce 976 sauce 622 waterlily 622 water 976 watermelon 976 watermelon jam 517 517 jam parsnip 976, 976,976P water parsnip water 976p 97G7 Waterzootje 976--7 Waterzootje 976p,977 chicken 976p,977 chicken 977 waxwing 977 waxwing 180 weddingcake wedding cake 180 977 weaver 977 weaver 977 matele vierge 977 en matele en measures and measures weights weigh ts and 977 977 well977 weB 977 977 wels 977 wels (rarebit) rabbit (rarcbit) Welsh rabbit Welsh 977 977

INDEX

INDEX

whale 977-g whale 977-8 whale calf 978 whale calf 978 wheat 978 wheat 978 whisk 978-9,978p whisk 978-9,978p Whisky (Whiskey) 979 Whisky (Whiskey) 979 whitebait 979 whitebait 979 marinated 469 marinated 469 salad 469 salad 469 white beet, see Swiss white beet, see Swiss chard chard white pudding 719,720 white pudding 719,720

grilled

720 grilled 720 white-tail 979 white-tai! 979 whiting 979,979p whiting 979, 979p d I'anglaise 979 à l'anglaise 979 Bercy 979 la Bercy àd la 979 boiled with melted boiled with melted butter or other sauce butter or other sauce 979-80 979-80 d la bonne femme 980 à la bonne femme 980 d la cancalaise 980 à la cancalaise 980 Colbert 980 Colbert 980 d La dieppoise 980 à la dieppoise 980 d I'espagnole 980 à l'espagnole 980 fillets 980,980p fillets 980, 980p forcemeat 980 forcemeat 980 au gratin 980 au gratin 980 grilled 980 grilled 980 with Italian marrows with ltalian marrows or aubergines 980 or aubergines 980 en lorgnette 980 en lorgnette 980 d la meunidre 980 à la meunière 980 mousse 980 mousse 980 with mushrooms 981 with mushrooms 981 Orly 981 Orly 981 with oysters with oysters 981 981 paupiettes 981 paupiettes 981 Richelieu 981 Richelieu 981 with shrimps 981 with shrimps 981 soup d la bretonne 883, soup à la bretonne 883, 884p 884p sur le plat 981 sur le plat 981 in white wine 981 in white wine 981 wholemeal 981 wholemeal 981 whortleberry whortleberry 981,981p 981, 981p accompaniment to cold accompaniment to cold meats 981 meats 981 compote 981 compote 981 jam 981 jam 981 jelly jelly 981 981 kissel 981 kissel 981

I'Armagnac 998 998 ài l'Armagnac brandy(à(dlalafine fine ininbrandy Champagne)998 998 Champagne) auCalvados Calvados 998 998 au casserole 998 998 inincasserole auChambertin Chambertin 998 998 au chaud-froid 998 998 chaud-froid incocotte cocotte 998 998 in creme 998 998 ài lala crème endaube 999 daube 999 en I'ancienne 999 999 àd l'ancienne Diane 999 999 àd lala Diane au fumet fumet 999 999 au l'orange 999 999 àd l'orange with oysters oysters àd with I'ancienne 999 999 l'ancienne wine-making 983-9,984p, 983-9, 984p, pdt6 673-4,999p, 6734,999p, wine-making pâté 986p 1000 1000 986p presses 985p wine presses 985p perigourdine, la périgourdine, wine àd la wine 983 983 hot 999-1000 999-1000 wine hot appellations contrôlées contr6l6es p6rigourdine la périgourdine appellations àri la 989-90 1000 989-90 1000 appellations d'origine d'origine pie wi with trufles 693, 693, appellations th truffies pie 39 1000 39 1000 bishop 126 126 pur6e 1000 1000 bishop purée in dietetics dietetics 990 990 Riche 1000 1000 àd la la Riche in fortification 968 968 roast 1000 1000 roast fortification international 993-7 993-7 salmis 1000-1 1000-l salmis international luxury or or liqueur liqueur 986 986 saut6ed: à d la Brillatluxury sautéed: la Brillatmarriage 967-8 Savarin 1001 1001 Savarin marriage 967-8 principal in Champagne 1001 l00l in Champagne principal French French wines wines 992-3 with 992-3 wi th truffies tmffies l00l 100 J red: souffi6 red: sauce sauce 809,815 809,815 soufRé 1001 1001 relating d Souvarov l00l à la la Souvarov 1001 relating to to food food 991, 991, 992 supr€mes suprêmes 1001, 1001, l00lp 100Ip 992 semi-sparkling timbale timbale l00l 1001 semi-sparkling 837 837 serving trufled serving 990 990 truffied (in (in casserole) casserole) sparkling l00l sparkling 889-90 889-90 1001 storing truffied storing 988p 988p truffied roast roast l00l-2 1001-2 straw wood straw 902 902 wood grouse grouse 1002 1002 temperatures woodpecker 1002 1002 temperatures for for 198-9 198-9 woodpecker t6te cuvbe 922 wood wood pigeon, pigeon, see see pigeons pigeons tête de de cuvée 922 unfermented Worcestershire Worcestershire sauce sauce unfermented 949 949 white: t002 1002 white: sauce sauce 823 823 wine-flavoured wormseed wormseed 1002 1002 wine-flavoured water water t24 wormwood wormwood lp, 1p, 1002 1002 124 wine wrasse wine tasting tasting 832p 832p wrasse 533 533 winkle wren, winkle 997 997 wren, fire-crested fire-crested 375 375 Winterthur, Wiirstchen Würstchen 831 831 Winterthur, d,la à la 997 997 witloof Wiirste witloof 997 997 Würste von von woodcock Kalbsgekrcise lCalbsgekrose 831 831 woodcock 98p,998,998p 98p,998,998p Widerkomm981 981 Widcrkomm wildarum 981 wild arum 981 wildboar boar981-2 981-2 wild chine of marcassin àdlala ofmarcassin chine chipolata 982 chipolata 982 civet ofmarcassin of marcassin 982 982 civet ham 982 ham 982 sweet-sour982 982 sweet-sour I'italienne 982 982 àd l'italienne head 982,982p ad 982, 982p he loin ofmarcassin of marcassin 982 982 loin scalloped marcassin marcassin scalloped 982-3 982-3 wild chicory chicory 983 983 wild wild thyme 983 wild thyme 983 wine lodges 262-5 262-5 winelodges

r064 1064

xX Xavier, àd,la 394 Xavier, la 394 Ximenia 1003 1003 Ximenia xylopia 1003 1003 xylopia

yY

yak 1003 1003 yak yam 1003 1003 yam yeast 1003 1003 yeast yoghourt 1003 yoghourt pudding 1003 Yorkshire pudding Yorkshire Yugoslavia : cookery cookery 504 Yugoslavia:

Z

zabaglione 1004,1004p 1004, 1004p d à I'asti l'asti 1004 au Champagne Champagne 1004 dà la cr6ole créole 1004-5 \ 004--5 au Frontignan Frontignan 1004 1004 dà la lODS la kola kola 1005 aux aux liqueurs liqueurs 1005 1005 zakuski zakuski 1005 1005 zampino zampino 469,717,717p 469,7\7, 717p Zara Zara 1005 1005 zebu zebu 1005 1005 Zeeland Zeeland 1005 \ 005 zephir zephir 1005 1005 zeste zeste 1005,1005p 1005, 1005p zester zester 1005 1005 zingara zingara 1005 1005 ziste ziste 1005 1005 zucchini zucchini 1005 1005 zwieback zwieback 1005 1005