The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide

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MendelMax 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide Edition 1.5 http://www.makerstoolworks.com/ [email protected] Freenode IRC: #makerstoolworks First off we would like thank all of our beta testers for their photos and input on this assembly guide. Their dedication and support toward us has been great. Thank you for purchasing the MendelMax 2.0 kit. This is a living document and we encourage your comments to improve the experience for everyone. Commenting is enabled in the insert menu. 1st highlight the area of comment, then click Insert -> Comment Due to changes Google made in the Comment feature, we have had to temporarily disable public commenting. We hope Google addresses the issues they created with their recent upgrade, and we will be able to restore this valuable feature. In the meantime, if you have any comments on our docs, please email [email protected] and we will address them.

PLEASE VERIFY KIT CONTENTS WITH THE PACKAGING SLIP BEFORE BEGINNING ASSEMBLY.

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MendelMax 2.0 Packaging Slip We do our best to confirm the accuracy of each kit, but things occasionally get overlooked. We are happy to replace any omitted parts if needed, but due to the costs of shipping we can only send one package of replacements for omitted parts per order.

This document contains the following sections: ● Gettin Getting g Starte Started d ● Assembli Assembling ng the Frame Frame Base Base ● Assembli Assembling ng the Frame Frame Top ● Preparing the X Axis Bushings ● Assembli Assembling ng the X Axis ● Assembli Assembling ng the Z Axis ● Finishing the X Axis Assembly ● Assembli Assembling ng the Y Axis ● Mounting the Extruder and Hotend ● Mounting Mounting the Electron Electronics ics Here is a plate reference to get familiar with the machined parts of your kit. Laser Cut Plate Parts: #

Part

1

Front Plate

A

1

Back Plate

B

2

Triangle Bottom

C

2

Triangle Top

D

2

Z Motor Mount

E

2

X Vertex

F

2

Z Base Plate

G

1

X End Idler

H

1

X End Motor

I

1

X Idler Tensioner

J

2

MendelMax 2.0 Packaging Slip We do our best to confirm the accuracy of each kit, but things occasionally get overlooked. We are happy to replace any omitted parts if needed, but due to the costs of shipping we can only send one package of replacements for omitted parts per order.

This document contains the following sections: ● Gettin Getting g Starte Started d ● Assembli Assembling ng the Frame Frame Base Base ● Assembli Assembling ng the Frame Frame Top ● Preparing the X Axis Bushings ● Assembli Assembling ng the X Axis ● Assembli Assembling ng the Z Axis ● Finishing the X Axis Assembly ● Assembli Assembling ng the Y Axis ● Mounting the Extruder and Hotend ● Mounting Mounting the Electron Electronics ics Here is a plate reference to get familiar with the machined parts of your kit. Laser Cut Plate Parts: #

Part

1

Front Plate

A

1

Back Plate

B

2

Triangle Bottom

C

2

Triangle Top

D

2

Z Motor Mount

E

2

X Vertex

F

2

Z Base Plate

G

1

X End Idler

H

1

X End Motor

I

1

X Idler Tensioner

J

3

2

Lead Screw Z Arm

K

1

X Carriage

L

1

Y Motor Mount

M

1

Electronics Electronics Mount

N

2

PSU Mount

O

4

5

Getting Started This machine when assembled is a possible fire hazard, electrical hazard, moving part hazard. Please use extreme caution when operating this machine and never operate it unattended. Never place your hands anywhere under the bed of the machine while the unit is plugged into the wall. For additional information about electrical concerns, review the electronics assembly guide. There are a few different types of screws used: SHCS: Socket Head Cap Screw, BHCS: Button Head Cap Screw, FHCS: Flat Head Cap Screw One method we found effective for attaching the laser cut plates to the extrusions is to put the screws and T-nuts into the plate first. Sometimes this is much easier than chasing a loose T-nut in the extrusion channel. This method is optional but will be utilized in this assembly manual. When attaching components look for the note of how tight to secure them. There will be 3 levels ranging from: Loosely - For getting components prepared for assembly, Snugly - To hold components in their general place but allow for further adjustment, Completely - The component is in its final place and can be fully tightened. Note: Rule of thumb for almost any fastener is turn it until it can’t be turned with

finger pressure, then put your tool on it and give it a quarter turn.

Interactive 3D model To view an interactive 3D model a Current version of Adobe Acrobat reader is required. If you click on the image it loads the components and has a selectable blue component tree on left.: https://www.dropbox.com/MM2 Beta.pdf We also have a few video version of the assembly at these links below: MendelMax 2.0 Assembly MendelMax 2.0 Assembly Part 2 Candid view of Frame Assembly Note: These videos are based off the old X and Z Axis, they will be redone with our

new design soon.

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The MendelMax 2 uses a few printed parts. We suggest you print out spare copies of each to minimize any downtime. There are available here: MM2.0 STLs Part

Use

Beta 2 Lower Shaft Mount.stl

Z Shaft Bottom

P

Bushing Mount.stl

Bushing Mount

Q

Beta 2 Z Shaft Clasp Upper.stl

Z Shaft Top

R

Z Isolator

S

Y Belt Clip.stl

Y Axis Belt Attachment

T

Y Stopper.stl

Y Stopper

U

Y-Idler-mount.stl

Y Axis Tensioner Mount

V

Y-Idler-tensioner.stl

Y Axis Belt Tensioner Arm

W

PSU Mount Clip.stl

Power Supply Bracket

A

X Endstop Mount

X

Y Endstop Mount

Y

Z Endstop Mount

Z

ohmeye_mm2_extruder_guide_upper_b2.stl

Used on MTW Extruder

ohmeye_mm2_extruder_guide_lower B2.stl

Used on MTW Extruder

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Assembling the Frame Base Parts Needed: #

Part

4

420 mm Extrusion

1

Front Base Plate (A)

1

Back Base Plate (B)

1

RAMPS Mount Plate (N) Now Universal

2

PSU Mount Plate (O)

8

M5-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)

8

M5 washers

4

M5-8 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS)

8

M5 T-nut

4

Rubber Feet

4


Tools Needed:

● 4 mm Allen Key ● Rafter Square, 12” Carpenter Square, or Combination Square.

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Steps: 1. First, check to ensure that your front and back plates are flat; if they have been bent

during manufacturing from the laser heat, gently bending them back to flat to ensure a rigid, aligned frame. 2. Lay 2x 420 mm extrusions on your work surface and place the Front Base Plate horizontally with its lower corner screw hole against the extrusion end. Washers are optional here. Insert and completely tighten a M5-10 SHCS. Repeat on the other bottom corner. ○

Note: The top of the plate is identified using the 3 middle holes.

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3. Snugly attach the Back Base Plate, with the large outlet hole in the rear corner, as

seen below, to the other end of each extrusion using M5-10 SHCS. It is important not to use washers, as they block access to the extrusion channels. Verify that the extrusion is square with the frame. Repeat for the other side. ○

Note: The top of the plate is identified using the 3 closely grouped

middle holes. ○

Note: Your back plate may have an additional hole cut in it; make certain

that the larger cut hole is in the back-left (as pictured), but the smaller cut hole is in the back right.

4. Attach the other 2 top extrusions to the base plates snugly in a similar fashion using

M5-10 SHCS.

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5. Ensure squareness of the top extrusions using a square or flat table surface.

Completely tighten while holding the square or flat surface against the frame.

6. Prepare the Rubber Feet by inserting M5-14 SHCS and add a T-nut.

7. Slide 1 rubber foot down each bottom extrusion channel and completely tighten

them. The last 2 go on a few steps later. ○

Note: For difficult rubber feet, place the T nut on a turn or two, then place

the foot in position to be slid onto the extrusion. Put the allen key into the SHCS and apply downward pressure on the allen key ONLY, not the rubber foot itself, and you will see the T-nut drop down enough to fit. Slide it on and before doing much else put at least another turn on the SHCS so you don’t have the T-nut drop off into the extrusion forcing you to start over. Slide it into position and tighten completely.

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8. Insert a M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts into the Electronics Mount Plate and a M5-8 SHCS

and T-nuts into the 2 PSU Mount Plates.

9. Slide the Electronics Mount Plate T-nuts down the right-side bottom channel

through the pack, and the 2 PSU Mount Plates T-nuts down the left channel. Snugly tighten them (See the next step for a picture). 10. Install and completely tighten the last 2 Rubber Feet. You should have something like below:

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Frame Top Parts Needed: #

Part

1

Completed Frame Bottom Assembly

3

340 mm Extrusion (A little over 13 ⅜”)

2

300 mm Extrusion (About 11 13/16”)

2

Triangle Bottom Plate (C)

2

Triangle Top Plate (D)

2

Z Motor Mount Plate (E)

2

X Vertex Plate (F)

2

Z Base Plate (G)

2

Printed Lower Shaft Mount

36


36

T-nuts

2


4

M3-8 SHCS

Tools Needed: ● ● ●

2.5 mm Allen Key 4 mm Allen Key Rafter Square

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Steps: 1. Identify the 340 mm extrusion with the tapped ends at set it aside from the other 2. 2. Take a Triangle Bottom Plate and fill all 6 holes with M5-8 SHCS. Loosely add

T-nuts to the other side. Repeat mirrored for other plate. ○

Note: The protrusion direction on the T-nuts, as well as the orientation of

the slanted corner of the plate and curved bottom corner.

3. Align the T-nuts and slide the Triangle Bottom Plate onto the Frame Base from the

back with the tabs pointing up, the angled tab at the back, and the curved corner toward the front. Repeat for other side.

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4. Align the back edge of the Triangle Bottom Plate with the end of the extrusions, both

on the bottom and back edge. Completely tighten the plate to the frame. Repeat for other side.

5. Place 2 T-nuts into the top channel of the extrusion, pushed forward of the Triangle

Bottom Plate. Repeat for the other side.

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6. Snugly attach one of the untapped upright 340 mm extrusion to Triangle Bottom

Plates front tab. Repeat for the other side. For the Z endstop insert 2 M5 T-nut down the right vertical extrusions inside channel facing the frames center for the Z endstop mount.

7. Prepare the Triangle Top Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts on 4

of the 5 holes, as pictured below. Repeat mirrored for the other side.

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8. Slide the Triangle Top Plate onto the outside top of the untapped 340 mm vertical

extrusion pointing toward the back end of the frame. Snugly tighten them in place. Repeat mirrored for the other side. Align the plate with the open hole above the top of the extrusion, later the top cross extrusion will set the final position.

9. Slide one of the untapped 300 mm extrusion down the back T-nuts of the Triangle

Top Plate and into the remaining tab on the Triangle Bottom Plate. Loosely tighten the screws. Repeat on the other side.

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10. Prepare the Z Motor Mount plates by filling both holes with M5-8 screws and T-nuts.

Repeat mirrored for other side.

11. With the small hole facing outwards, slide the Z Motor Mount onto the end of the

tapped 340 mm extrusion. Loosely tighten all screws when the plate’s outside edge is roughly even with the end of the extrusion (you will adjust these later).

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12. Prepare the X Vertex Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 screws and T-nuts. Repeat

mirrored for the other side.

13. Slide the X Vertex Plate onto the end of the 340 mm extrusion. Roughly align the

plate with the end and top of the extrusion and loosely tighten the screws. Repeat mirrored for the other side.

14. If you plan to install the spool holder insert 2 M5 T-nuts in the top channel of this

assembly.

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15. Lower the assembly onto the frame with the X Vertex Plate on the back side of the

vertical 340 mm extrusions. Ensure that the T-nut on the X Vertex Plate goes into the back channel of the 340 mm extrusion. Repeat for other side. ○

Note: If the tabs from the Triangle Top Plate sticking up and obscuring

the assembly from being mounted, check the alignment of the 420 mm top extrusions connected to the Front and Back base plates. Taking care to keep the frame square, push down the entire horizontal 340 mm extrusion until it is resting on the vertical extrusions.

16. Insert an M5-10 screw into the top tab’s hole on the Triangle Top Plate. Tighten it,

taking care to keep the top 340 mm extrusion aligned with the two plates. Repeat on the other side.

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17. Align the X Vertex Plate with both extrusions and tighten the 3 screws; repeat for

other side. 18. Loosen the Z Motor Plate and slide them completely out against the vertical extrusion and then completely tighten them when roughly centered on the extrusion. Repeat on the other side. ○

Note: You might have to adjust and tighten them in the Assemble The Z

Axis section. 19. Using a square, go through and verify the 340 mm extrusions are square with the frame then snugly tighten any loose screws.

20. Prepare the Z Base plate by installing the printed Lower Shaft Mount with M3-8

SHCS; Install the printed Lower Shaft Mounts underneath the Z base plates with the V cutout section facing towards the plate (solid side on bottom). Repeat for other side mirrored.

Note that the M5 screw in the foreground is there just to hold the piece up for the picture.

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21. With M5-8 SHCS mount the Z Base Plate against the front-side of the 340 mm

extrusion. Using your allen wrench, align the freely placed T-nuts to accommodate the screws. The larger hole goes towards the inside of the machine, and the smaller hole should be closer to the front of the printer. Repeat mirrored on the other side.

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Preparing the X Axis Bushings Needed: #

Part

1

X End Motor Plate (I)

1

X End Idler Plate (H)

4

10mm Linear Bushing

4

Printed Bushing Holder Block

8

M3-10 Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)

8

M3 Hex Nuts

2

10mm Linear Shaft

Tools Needed: ●

2.5 mm Allen Key

Steps: Note: The following step is critical to proper operation of your MendelMax 2. It is

suggested that you read through this section completely before doing the steps. The printer utilizes Self Aligning Bronze Bushings which require some initial break in: 1. Wipe down the 10 mm Smooth Rod with rubbing alcohol or window cleaner on a towel to ensure they are clean; they need to be completely dry and oil-free 2. Taking 1 bushing at a time, place it on the Smooth Rod and flex them around like below; the black metal bushing body should move around the inside bronze bushing 5 degrees in each direction and rotate. ○

Note: You can carefully grip the bushing body with pliers or other tools.

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3. The kit has printed bushing holders, they each require 2 M3 nuts inserted in the 2 side cutouts, the flat smooth side is the bottom. 4. Insert the bushings to the blocks from the curved top. ○

Note: The bushing holders and bushings should remain oriented the

same way in relation to each other during mounting, otherwise binding or chatter may occur. See the third picture below. ○

Note: Make sure that the bushings are completely seated in the bushing

block. Using something hard like a board or book will help set them in tightly. ○

Note: If the bushings are loose inside the bushing holders, carefully

apply a small amount of super glue, making sure to keep any glue away from the bronze.

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5. Carefully orient the two X End plates on your work surface in the correct way: ○ Place the X End Motor Plate on the right and the X End Idler Plate on the left ○ Each plate has two M5 holes, which should be facing the inside towards the other plate. ○ If your plates are countersunk on one side, they may be countersunk incorrectly; do not use the countersinks as a guide for the orientation. ○ The offset line shown should be the bottom edge closer to you.

6. If you have the printed bushing holders insert M3 Hex Nuts into the 2 side nut trap openings. These are what secure the holders to the zx Ends. 7. Keeping the plates oriented correctly, align and completely tighten the bushing holders to the backs of the X End Motor and X End Idler Plate using 8x M3-10 SHCS. Ensure that all of the bushing blocks are facing the same way, and that the bushings are inserted into the bushing blocks the same way.

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8. Insert a 10 mm Linear Shaft into the bushings and work it back and twist it inside the bushings. While holding the rod and X end, push on a brass bushing with your thumbs to force the bushing to self-align. Repeat and experiment with playing with this until the X end moves with nearly no friction. ○

Note: Refer to this video for X End Preparation

○ Your goal is to loosen and align them so that when held vertically, the assembly slides freely down due to gravity. ○ To improve the alignment hold the plate and bushing assembly in one hand, and “wiggle” the rod in the other hand. ○ Recheck the alignment and movement, ensuring that the assembly is able to fall freely due to gravity. If it is binding, continue to “play” with the assembly in your hand and torquing the rod. ○ Once complete, remove the rod from the assembly, being careful not to take the bushings out of alignment.

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Assembling the X Axis Parts Needed: #

Part

1

340 mm Extrusion (A little over 13 ⅜”)

1

296 mm Extrusion (A little over 11 ⅝“)

2

Lead Screw Mount (Z arm) Plate (K)

1

X End Motor Plate from the previous section

1

X End Idler Plate from the previous section

1

X Idler Tensioner Plate (J)

2

X Rails

2

X Rail Cars

4

M5-8 Low Profile Cap Screws of Flat Head (FHCS) (Batch 1 has BHCS)

6


8

M5 T-nut

10

M5 Washer

10

M3 T-nut

10

M3-6 mm Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS)

1


2

605 Bearing

1

M5 Hex Nut

Tools Needed: ● ● ● ●

2 mm Allen Key 2.5 mm Allen Key 3 mm Allen Key 4 mm Allen Key

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Steps: 1. Prepare both X Rails filling the holes with M3-6 BHCS and M3 T-nuts. ○

Note: Yours may use fewer screws than is pictured; this is fine.

2. Align the T-nuts and slide the long rail onto the top channel of the 340 mm extrusion. Center it and snugly tighten it.

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3. Align the T-nuts and slide the short rail onto the top channel of the rear 296 mm extrusion. Center it and snugly tighten it.

4. Prepare Lead Screw Z Arm Plate by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts. Repeat mirrored for the other side.

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5. Align the T-nuts and slide the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate onto the bottom channel of the 340 mm extrusion. Align it flush to the end of the extrusion and snugly attach it as it will need to be adjusted on final assembly. Repeat mirrored on the other side.

6. Prepare the X End Motor and X End Idler Plate by filling the holes with the M5-8 Low-Profile and T-nuts.

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7. Align the T-nuts and slide the X End Motor Plate onto the back channel of the 340 mm extrusion with the X rail on top. Snugly attach it as it will need to be adjusted on final assembly.

In this picture, the assembly is rolled 90 degrees towards you, laying on its front.

Continued on next page...

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8. Insert the 2 identical X Cars into the front rail. Later in the assembly the 1 remaining car will be installed into the rear rail. If there is a bow it can go either direction. ○

Note: If they have a bow these are preloaded cars and will feel stiff but

should require consistent pressure to slide around.

9. Prepare the X Idler Tensioner by using an M5-25 SHCS with 2 washers on it, thread it completely through the the center hole on the plate then add 5 washers, add 2x 605 bearings, add a washer and secure the end with a M5 hex nut. You may need to adjust the # of washers to make sure the belt is aligned in future steps.

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10. Snugly mount the X Idler Tensioner to the X End Idler Plate with a M5-8 SCHS and washer allowing it to freely pivot. Put another M5-8 SCHS and washer loosely into the slotted opening.

33

11. Align the T-nuts and slide the X End Idler Plate onto the back channel of the extrusion. Snugly attach it as it will need to be adjusted on final assembly.

Note that in this picture, the assembly is rolled 90 degrees towards you, laying on its front.

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Assembling the Z Axis Parts Needed: #

Part

2

10 mm Linear Shaft

2

Z Lead Screw

2

Z Coupler

2

Nema 17 Stepper Motor

12

M3-8 mm Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)

6

M3-10 mm Socket Head Cap Screw (SHCS)

2

Printed Smooth Rod Clip

2

Z Isolator

2

Zip tie

2

Delrin Z Nut

Tools Needed: ● ●

2.5 mm Allen Key 4 mm Allen Key

Steps: 1. Important: Run the Delrin Nuts up and down the Lead Screw shaft length to verify it moves easily by hand, making sure to use the narrow end of the Lead Screw to install the Delrin Nut. ○

Note: If they do not move smoothly, you can chuck the Lead Screw shaft

in a power drill and work the nut up and down several (5-20) times to loosen them up. ○ Graphite powder or machine oil can be applied if needed.

35

2. Mount the Delrin Nuts to the the flat side of Z Isolators with using M3-10 SHCS. ○

Note: The Z Isolators are designed to eliminate any slight bends in the Z

lead screws from being transferred to the part being printed. See an example video here: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=bsrV0gubg-U

3. Skip this step if you are using the Z Isolators: Mount the Delrin Nuts to the underside of the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate, with the flange opening downward using M3-10 SHCS; repeat for other side.

Note that in this picture, the assembly is facing rotated 90 degrees away from you.

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4. Position the X Axis as shown on the frame with the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate nut holders in the back. The plate that corresponds with a stepper motor should be on the right hand side when viewing the printer from the front

5. Feed the Linear Shaft through the smaller hole in the Z Motor Mount Plate at one end of the top of the frame, through the two linear shafts on the same side at end of the X rail and into the smaller hole of the Z Base Plate. Repeat for other side. ○

Note: You may need to loosen and slide the X Ends in or out to achieve

proper alignment.

37

6. Pass the Linear Shaft through the bottom, entering into the corresponding hole at the base of the frame. Ensure that the rod is fully seated in the clips. Repeat for other side.

7. Notice that shaft has some wobble at the top, this will act as an aiming sight to align the Z Shafts. Make the snugly attached Idler X End screws loose. Use the position of the X End on the X Axis, adjust it until the shaft is centered in its upper mount. Completely tighten the X End screws once you find the 2 shafts center point.

38

8. After getting the Z axis aligned with it at the bottom, check alignment with the X axis raised to the top as well; you may find that the bottom mounts moved farther apart or closer together, taking care to ensure the corrections are split between the two sides so as to remain centered. Continue perfecting alignment until the entire X axis is able to freely fall from the top to the bottom. 9. Take the printed Smooth Rod Clip and pass it over the shaft top. The flat side of the smooth rod clip should face inward so it does not conflict with the step motor. 10. Secure it to the Z Motor Plate using M3-8 SHCS. Use an included zip tie around the clamp to hold the rod.

11. Move the X Axis up and Down on the Z to ensure there is no binding. If you find any major binding return to step 4 above. ○ Your Axis should behave like this video: Z Axis Movement 12. Position the Isolator with Delrin Nut under the Lead Screw Z Arm Plate passing the open end above the Bushing Block and around the Linear Shaft.

39

13. Feed the Lead Screw through the top of the Z Motor Mount with the shorter stub end pointing down and screw it through the Delrin Nut. ○

Note: It takes a little effort to get the screw started as they do not initially

seem to fit, make sure to keep them straight too.

14. The Lead Screw Z Arm Plate will rest on the little bump of the Z Isolators.

40

15. Prepare 2 stepper motors by attaching the coupler using the small 5mm hole, . The couplers have small set screws already installed in them, align one to the shaft flat..

16. Lower the stepper onto the Z Motor Mount Plate putting the larger hole of the coupler over the Z Lead Screw shaft and secure it with M3-8 screws. Repeat on the other side. ○

Note: If you loosen the plate to get the stepper to fit, you may have to

re-align your rods in step 4 and forward.

41

17. Adjust the Lead Screw shaft so the bottom is just above the Z Base Plate, then tighten the two coupler set screws.

18. Set the distance between each sides X End bushing and Z Base Plate by adjusting the Lead Screw shafts by hand. Later, you will fine tune this. ○

Note: Do Not use a level because the printer will typically not be on a

level surface. The important thing is the distance relationship of the hotend to the bed. Getting the X axis parallel with respect to the ed and perpendicular to the uprights is the goal for alignment. You will notice that the Lead Screw shaft bottom is unconstrained. The reason is very few lead screws are perfectly straight and if you constrain both ends then any shaft wobble will be transferred to the X Axis. OhmEye offers a nice Lead Screw isolator that you can install later if you wish to change to constrained Lead Screws.

42

Finishing the X Axis Assembly Parts Needed: #

Part

1 X Carriage Plate (L) 1 X Rail (already on extrusion) 1 X Car 1 NEMA17 Stepper 1 GT2 Pulley 1 GT2 Belt 2


1


3

M5 T-nut

4


6

M3-6 Button Head Cap Screws (BHCS)

2

M3 Washers

2

Zip Tie

Tools Needed:

● 2.5 mm Allen Key ● 4 mm Allen Key

43

Steps: 1. Prepare the remaining short extrusion with the X Rail attached to it by adding 2 M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts to the bottom channel; add an additional T-nut in the front channel for the X axis endstop.

2. Insert the remaining X Car into the rail.

44

3. Install your X axis endstop to the X axis endstop mount using M2 screws; the mount is self-tapping, so nuts are not needed.

Note the orientation of the endstop on the mount, with the arm opening towards the top; your endstop may not look exactly as pictured here

4. Install the printed X axis endstop mount to the extrusion using a M5-10 SHCS as pictured below.

45

5. Align the extrusion with the slots on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates and slide the M5 and T-nut into the slot. Loosely tighten the M5 screws.

6. Check the spacing between the X Rails, they should be an equal distance apart on both sides. Align and completely tighten them. 7. Take the X Carriage Plate and snugly attach it to the cars using M3-6 BHCS. The back car screws need M3 washers for the slotted holes. ○

Note: The tightness of the X Carriage to the cars may need to be

readjusted at a later time.

46

8. Move the carriage left and right fully to align the rear rail. 9. Snugly tighten the rear rail M5 screws on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates. 10. Check the carriage for binding and twisting. It will be stiff but should require consistent force to move. There should be very little ability to torque the carriage by hand. If not repeat the last 4 steps, keeping in mind that the positioning of the rear rail impacts and car are the main tools to resolve this. 11. Completely tighten the rear rail M5 screws on the Lead Screw Z Arm Plates. 12. Install the GT2 pulley on to the stepper with the setscrew toward the end of the shaft for proper alignment with the belt path; consider adding some Thread Lock to the setscrew to avoid issues later; slide about 0.2 m of cable sleeving on the end and attach it with zip ties

47

13. Install the NEMA17 stepper motor and pulley on the X End Motor Plate using 4 M3-8 screws

14. Prepare a GT2 Belt by cutting it at 1 point.

15. Using the included zip ties pass the belt through the right-hand mount on the X carriage with the back smooth side of the belt facing up; fold the belt over itself and secure the two toothed-sides together.

48

16. Pass the belt over the top of the X axis stepper motor’s GT2 pulley, then under and between the X end motor plate and 10 mm Smooth Rod.

17. Pass the belt under the X Idler pulley and then back over the top to meet the left side of the X carriage with the loose end.

49

18. With the X idler loose, pull the belt tight and simultaneously secure it to itself as you did the other end with a zip tie.

19. Trim the free ends of the zip ties, as well as the free ends of the belts as you see fit, leaving a little extra to ensure you can re-mount the belt in the future if necessary.

50

20. Slide the X Idler to the left to ensure the belt is tight, then tighten the M5 SHCS in the slotted channel to hold the tensioner in place. ○

Note: The belt should only be tight enough so that the top and bottom

parts of the belt cannot easily meet when pinched between two fingers and twisting the belt 90 degrees around its axis should be difficult. ○ Note: A very technical suggestion is using instrument tuning software to set a proper tension. ■ Ideally, you want to tighten these belts until the lower part of the belt (the one that isn't attached to the bracket or clip) vibrates between 130hz and 150hz. On a piano that's between C3 (C below middle C) and D#3. ■ There are tuning apps for your cell phone or MP3 player that can help. On Android, the FrequenSee app is useful. On iOS, the SpectrumView app can do the job. Load the app, turn off the printer, wait for a quiet moment, and "pluck" the lower part of the belt. The app should show a rise in frequency around 130hz to 150hz.

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Installing the Electronics You might find it easier to install and wire the electronics before installing the Y Axis. This is totally optional right now but does give you more room to reach the plugs on the electronics. You can follow those steps in the section after Assembling the Y Axis.

Assembling the Y Axis Parts Needed: #

Part

1

Y Axis Rail

4

Y Axis Cars

1

24v Kapton Bed Heater

1

Aluminum Heat Spreader

1

Borosilicate Glass (See unpacking tip below)

1

Y Undercarriage Plate

1

2020 Aluminum Extrusion, Length: 420 mm

7

M5 T-Nut

4

M5-12 mm Flat Head Cap Screw (FHCS)

6

M5 Thin Nut

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1

Thread Lock Packet

8

M6-10 mm Button Head Cap Screw (BHCS)

5

M6-16 mm Button Head Cap Screw (BHCS)

3

M5 Washers

3


8

M6 Rubber Washer

2


5


3

Bed Bracket Clip

3

Silicone Pad

1

GT2 Pulley

1

GT2 Belt

1

Y Motor Mount Plate (M)

3


1

NEMA17 Stepper

4

Zip tie

1

Printed Belt Clip

1

Printed Y Stopper

1

1x Y Idler Tensioner Assembly ○ Printed Y Tensioner Mount ○ Printed Y Tensioner Arm ○ 3x 605 Bearing ○ 2x M5-25 Socket Head Cap Screws (SHCS) ○ 2x M5-8 BHCS ○ 2x M5-10 BHCS ○ 4x M5 Hex Nut ○ 4x M5 Washers

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Tools Needed: ●

4 mm Allen Key

Steps: Unpacking the glass bed: The glass is taped to styrofoam to protect it during shipping, cut it free then the tape can best be removed by using heat from a blow dryer or a solvent like rubbing alcohol with a scraping tool.

1. Take the 420 mm extrusion and lay it on the glass several different directions on

both sides to identify the flattest side and mark it for assembly.

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2. Insert a M5-12 mm FHCS into the rail mounting holes and loosely attach a T-nut

onto the screw from below the rail, repeat on all remaining rail holes. ○

Note: The rail will hang over each side of the extrusion by 2.5 mm; this is

to provide stability when mounted on the printer frame. ○

Note: We use FHCS here to self-center the screw on the rail. They are

not meant to sit flush in the rail.

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3. Flip the rail over and ensure the T-nuts are aligned, then begin sliding the extrusion

over the T-nuts until all are inside the extrusion slot.

4. Flip the whole assembly over and even up the ends, remembering the 2.5 mm

overhang, then tighten the M5-12 FHCS.

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5. Prepare the Y axis endstop by mounting it to the Y axis endstop mount using M2 screws; the mount is self-tapping, so nuts are not needed.

Note the orientation of the endstop on the arm, specifically with the arm opening towards the mounting hole and on the flat edge rather than the uneven edge.

6. Mount the Y axis endstop on the rear right of the Y axis rail extrusion.

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Notice that the switch side is mounted on the top for the rear mount; the switch’s arm has been removed for easier photographing; it is not necessary to remove the switch arm.

7. Slide 2 cars onto each side of the linear rail.

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8. Set out the Y Undercarriage plate.

9. Apply Thread Lock to the three M5-10 SHCS and wait 10 minutes for the solution to

dry before doing the next step with these screws. 10. Prepare the Y Undercarriage plate by attaching the Bed Bracket Clip to the innermost slots on each of the 3 arms with the M5-10 mm SHCS with a washer.

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11. Next add a M5 hex nut to the 3 leveling M5-16 SHCS and then install them into the 3

outermost holes on each of the 3 arms of the “Y”.

12. Repeat this setup on all 3 corners of the Y undercarriage.

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13. Loosely attach the Y undercarriage plate to the top of the 4 cars on the linear rail

using the M6-10mm BHCS using rubber washers between the plate and the screw head. ○

Note: Some users have found not using the rubber washers works

better.

14. Tightly squeeze and hold the front cars together as you fully tighten the screws;

repeat for the back. See a video of the process here: Adjusting the MendelMax 2.0 Y Axis Cars ○

Note: If you still find too much slop or binding in the Y undercarriage,

re-loosen the cars and try again. This may take a few tries.

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15. Flip the whole assembly over and screw on the plastic belt mounting bracket under

the single undercarriage arm using M6-16 mm BHCS with Thread Lock on them.

16. Install the round printed Y stopper on the car opposite of the belt clip using a M6-16

mm BHCS.

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17. Prepare the Y Motor Mount by filling the holes with M5-8 SHCS and T-nuts.

18. Attach a NEMA17 stepper using 3 M3-8 SHCS in the Y Motor Mount holes. ○

Note: If the stepper has not arrived you may skip this step for now.

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19. Prepare the GT2 pulley by applying threadlock to the set screw. 20. Attach the GT2 pulley to the stepper by aligning the setscrew with the shafts flat

area.

21. Slide the the T-nuts of the Y Motor Mount onto the Y extrusion with the rail, putting it

near the end, as seen below and loosely tighten the screws.

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22. Mount the whole unit onto the MendelMax frame through the top center holes on the

Front and Back plate using M5-10 SHCS screws. ○

Note: Having the 2 Y corners facing the direction most accessible to

you will make leveling the bed easier.

23. Ensure the Y Motor Plate is against the Front Base Plate and completely tighten the

M5-8 SHCS.

24. Prepare the printed Y Idler Tensioner by inserting a M5 Hex nut into the single top

hole. You will need to carefully use a screw to pull the nut in and seat it properly.

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○

Note: The hole might need to be cleaned out due to the way it was

printed.

25. Insert a washer then 3x 605 bearings and another washer into the arm and secure

them with a M5-25 SHCS and M5 Hex nut.

26. Insert 2 M5 hex nuts into the bottom of the Y Tensioner Arm.

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27. Attach the Y Idler Tensioner to the Printed Y Tensioner Mount using 2 M5-10 screws

and the previously inserted M5 nuts; this does not need to be particularly tight. 28. Insert a M5-25 SHCS into the top hex nut.

29. Mount the Y Idler on the outside of the Back Base Plate using 2 M5-8 SHCS with

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washers in the bottom holes with the point of the long adjustment screw against the Back Base Plate. ○

Note: Have the long adjustment screw all the way out and just in into the

nut so you have room to tighten it up later.

30. Cut the GT2 belt from a loop into a length. 31. Pass one end of the belt under the belt mount, smooth side toward the extrusion,

then up around the outside and through the hole to fold over itself; attach the two sides together with 2 zipties. ○

Note: Use a looped ziptie to help pull the belt through the bracket

32. Pass the belt around the GT2 Pulley on the Y axis stepper.

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33. Then pass the belt through the bottom of the Y idler bearings, then back through the

top of the Y Idler assembly.

34. Pass the end of the belt through the belt mount and up around folded over itself and

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attach it with 2 zipties, trying to keep as much tension on the belt as possible.

35. Tighten the tensioner screw so as to make it very tight with no slop.

36. Move the bed back and forth to verifying the belt tracks in the center of the rear

opening, if it is rubbing on the frame then reposition the belt on the belt clip until it tracks properly. 37. Find the natural bow in the aluminum heat spreader, the bow will be the top side and

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the weight of the glass will flatten it and creates better thermal contact. 38. Install the 24v kapton heater using its adhesive surface onto the bottom side of the aluminum heat spreader. ○

Note: If your kit included an extra adhesive sheet use it on the heater.

Some of the heaters had a weak unapproved adhesive installed.

39. Prepare the silicone pad by cutting it into 3 separate pieces.

40. If you plan to use the heated bed at 100C+ for ABS you should insulate the bottom of the heater. The easiest solution is cardboard wrapped in aluminum foil. 41. Place the heat spreader with the heater down and then the glass onto the Y assembly and put a Silicone Pad between them and the Bed Bracket Clips. ○

Note: The 24v heater and thermistor wires go toward the back, zip tied

to the single arm of the Y plate with a bit of extra room for cable flex.

42. Adjust the Bed Bracket Clips snugly against the glass and completely tighten the

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M5-10 SHCS holding them.

Installing the Extruder and Hotend Now that the bed is ready for leveling you need a reference point. The hotend or nozzle is that final reference. If you purchased a full kit from Maker’s Tool Works, please follow the assembly guide for the MaxStruder below: MTW MaxStruder Assembly Guide Older kits (ordered before March 2013) have different printed parts and need to refer to (you can print your own updated parts from our website later): MTW MaxStruder Assembly Guide (for orders before March 2013) Otherwise, please refer to your hotend and extruder manufacturer’s guidelines for how to assemble and mount them.

Mounting the Electronics Note: if you purchased a hardware only kit from us, only the electronics mounts are

included. The following sections can be used for reference. Parts Needed: #

Parts

1

Electronics Mounting Plate, mounted to frame

5

M3-12 mm socket head cap screw (SHCS)

3

M3 Hex Nut

3

Plastic PCB standoff

1

RAMBo electronics board

3

M4-8 mm socket head cap screw (SHCS)

1

Printed PSU mount clip

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Attaching Electronics to the Frame PSU 1. Remove the fuse cover from the IEC fused panel plug and clip the fuse in the end of

the fuse cover; replace it in the power adapter with a “click”.

2. Mount the IEC fused panel plug to the back plate with two M3-10 screws with the

fuse on the bottom side.

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3. On the PSU, look for selector switch for 115 v/230 v and select the appropriate

voltage for your location. ○

Note: The PSU does not automatically sense the input voltage, so be

certain to select the appropriate voltage.

4. Using M4-8 BHCS screws, secure the bottom of the PSU to the two PSU Mounting

plates. ○

Note: The rear of the power supply needs to be about 30mm in front of

the rear of the RAMBo board to be able to plug in the power cable between the two. <- https://www.dropbox.com/s/9c7isysk5y3lqt1/FanCap.stl

5. With a M4-8 mm SHCS, secure the side of the PSU to the frame using the printed

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PSU mount clip. ○

Note: While there is an additional hole in the PSU mount clip that may fit

an M5 screw, we do not recommend using this.

6. Attach your USB panel cable to the back plate directly in front of the electronics

mount using M3-12 SHCS screws. 7. Using the plastic cylindrical standoffs, M3-12 mm screws (head on the circuit-board side), and M3 Hex Nuts secure the RAMBo to the mounting plate oriented with the USB port towards the back of the machine. ○ Note: You might need to trim the spacers to work.

8. Attach your USB panel cable’s USB-B male connector to the RAMBO’s USB

connector.

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Connecting the PSU and Print Controller Make sure that power and USB are unplugged from the PSU and the print controller. Be mindful that the connections that you will be making are 115/230 volt AC connections. Anything touching any connectors or bare wire will risk shock and fire hazard. This is highly dangerous. Use electrical tape or heatshrink to insulate these connections where necessary.

PSU 1. Ensuring that the fused-side of the IEC connector is mounted down:

Attach the black wire with one female spade connector to the bottom connector labeled “L”. ○ Attach the white wire with one female spade connector to the middle connector labeled “N”. ○ Attach the green “V” style wire with one female spade connector on the end to the top connector labeled “G”. ○

■

Note: In normal operation, these wires will carry current; take

care to ensure that no stray wires are left unexposed on the PSU terminal; make sure the connector is tight against the IEC fused panel plug; do not leave any wire, connector, or pin exposed (use heatshrink and electrical tape as needed)

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2. Attach the black, white, and green wires to the PSU terminals as follows: black wire

to the screw terminal labeled “L”, white wire to the screw terminal labeled “N”, and green wire to the screw terminal labeled ground with one of the following icons:

3. Attach the the black and red wire harnesses with the spade connectors to the PSU,

with the black wire in one of the three “-V” labeled terminals, and the red in the “+V” labeled terminals (this will carry your 24 VDC) ○

Note: RAMBo uses 3 harnesses, and RAMPS uses 2 harnesses. If you

only received two harnesses, your print controller can still operate with by using a simple workaround. Attach all of the harnesses that you have, and review the note in the future section to see how it works

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Print Controller 1. Remove the 6-screw terminal connector from RAMBo to easily access the power

connections, noting the connectors orientation with respect to the RAMBo board 2. Attach the stripped-end of your red and black wire harnesses to the 6 screw terminal connector with the red wires in the terminals marked “+” and the black wires in the terminals marked “-”; the inside wire should start with a “+”; reattach the 6-screw terminal connector to the RAMBo board ○

Note: If you received too-few harnesses, you can cut and strip both

ends of a small “jumper” wire to connect two “+” and two “-” terminals together; this way, you end up with both “+” and “-” connections hooked up in parallel with the PSU, as done with the far-right pair in the picture below

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3. Attach your X, Y, Z, Z, and E0 (Extruder) axis stepper motors to their appropriately

labeled header pins; attach it with the blue wire oriented closest to the RAMBo USB connector. ○

Note: If your stepper motors move in the reverse direction when you

power on your printer, you can simply “flip” the connector’s orientation; only do this when the printer is powered off, however.

4. Attach the hotend thermistor to the connector labeled “T0”, and attach the heated

bed thermistor to the connector labeled “T2” on RAMBo (“T1” on RAMPS); neither of these connections have polarity. ○

Note: silver leads on the Jhead Thermistor is type 5, copper is type 1

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5. Attach the hotend heater cartridge to the screw terminal labeled “Heat 0”, and attach

the heated bed heater to the screw terminal labeled “Heat Bed”; neither of these connections have polarity; attach the fan wires to the connectors labeled “Fan 0”, taking note to connect the red wires to the “+” terminal and black wires to the “-” terminal ○ Note: You will need to cut the old lead off the fan to use the screw terminals.

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Connecting the endstops 1. Mount the Z endstop using 2 M2-12 BHCS and 2 M2 nuts as shown. Use a M5-25 SHCS for fine adjust to trigger the switch.

2. On the endstops, connect them to the wiring with the black wire connecting to the outer tab labeled C on the microswitch and the blue (or white) wire connecting to the outer tab labeled NC on the microswitch; there is no true polarity, however; if your wiring has a third wire, it may stay unconnected.

Note that this endstop is not connected just for easier viewing purposes

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3. Attach the three sets of endstop wires to the connectors on the board labeled “Endstops” just beside the USB connector; they connect to the “min” endstop side closest to the USB connector, leaving the farther 3 “max” connectors empty. ○

Note: You will attach these endstop wires and endstops to your printer

after printing your own endstop mounts later in this guide

Leveling the Bed 1. Begin by ensuring your X Axis is parallel to the main printer frame. 2. Adjust the single center bed leveling screw to its highest position and verify it clears

the center rails mounting screws. 3. Position the hotend nozzle directly over the single center bed leveling screw. 4. Adjust the nozzle height to the glass so that a single sheet of paper can move between them with only a slight bit of drag. 5. Slowly move the Y Axis to the opposite end of its travel. Keep the hotend nozzle in the center. 6. Adjust the two outside corner bed leveling screw so that the nozzle is the same paper thickness above the glass in the center. 7. Move the nozzle over one of the corner adjustment screws and verify the height is correct,adjust as needed. 8. Move to the other corner screw and verify the height is correct,adjust as needed. 9. Move the nozzle back above the single center bed leveling screw and verify the height is correct. 10. Move the nozzle to both back corners verifying the proper height.

The Mendel Max 2.0 Hardware Assembly Guide

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