Copyright © 2011 by All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Potter Craft, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com wwww.pottercraft.com POTTER CRAFT and colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-in-Publication Cataloging-in-Publication Data Abousteit, Nora. The BurdaStyle sewing sewing handbook / by Nora Abousteit Abousteit with Alison Kelly. — 1st ed. p. cm. 1. Dressmaking. 2. Sewing. I. BurdaStyle, BurdaStyle, Inc. II. Title. TT515.A26 2011 646.4—dc22 2011005693 ISBN: 978-0-307-58674-2 Printed in China Design by Jenny Kraemer Photography by Isabel Asha Penzlien and Tory Tory Williams Illustrations by Laura Trevino and Rachel Rymar Technical writing by Diane Gilleland 10 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1 First Edition
CONTENTS
CONTENTS Introduction
7
CHAPTER 1
getting started
9
CHAPTER 2
using patterns
29
CHAPTER 3
let’s start sewing
51
CHAPTER 4
the skirt
69
CHAPTER 5
the blouse
87
CHAPTER 6
the dress
113
CHAPTER 7
the coat
141
CHAPTER 8
the bag
171
Resources
196 198 201 202 203 204 205
Glossary Acknowledgments Acknowledgmen ts About the Authors Authors About BurdaStyle.com BurdaStyle.com Credits Index
IN I N T RO RODUC DUC TI TION ON How many times have you tried on a piece of clothing you loved
same pattern at the same time, sharing tips and suggestions.
but the fit was off? Or fell in love with a high-end garment well
We are constantly amazed at the creativity, individuality, and
IN I N T RO RODUC DUC TI TION ON How many times have you tried on a piece of clothing you loved
same pattern at the same time, sharing tips and suggestions.
but the fit was off? Or fell in love with a high-end garment well
We are constantly amazed at the creativity, individuality, and
out of your price range? Or had a vision of the perfect outfit but
versatility of this community.
couldn’t find it in stores?
Designed by BurdaStyle’s creative team under Alison’s
The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook , conceived by Nora
direction, the five paper patterns included in this book con-
Abousteit and coauthored by creative director Alison Kelly,
stitute an interchangeable and fully customizable wardrobe of
showcases an eclectic mix of adaptable sewing projects that
skirt, blouse, dress, coat, and bag. Ten talented independent
embody the quintessence of the BurdaStyle philosophy. We
designers and skilled BurdaStyle members were handpicked
want this book to serve as the new bible for aspiring fashion
to create variations based on those original designs—resulting
designers, sewing enthusiasts, and motivated DIYers. Packed
in the fifteen essential sewing projects you’ll find in the book.
with easy-to-follow tutorials and instructional sewing projects,
Finally, sixty more BurdaStyle members offered up their own
this book gives you the basic building blocks to begin sewing
interpretations of the patterns so that you can see how simple
and the tools you need to move beyond the basics to designing
adjustments such as changing the fabric or the shape of a
and customizing your own wardrobe.
sleeve can lead to endless new design possibilities.
When we launched BurdaStyle in 2007, it was our mission to
Are you someone someone who has always always wanted to sew but but never
create an all-encompassing resource for the fashion and sewing
took the time to learn? Use this book to bring your ideas to life.
communities. We saw a gap and we filled it. Before BurdaStyle
Even if you have never threaded a needle or sewn a single stitch,
there were few places to go for ideas, tutorials, open discus-
you’re in luck. This handbook contains everything a beginner
sion and, most important, cutting-edge copyright-free sewing
needs to know, from setting up a sewing space and identifying
patterns. Sewing (and its sister crafts) was considered by many
the essential tools to making your first skirt. A glossary at the
to be outdated, something our mothers and grandmothers did
back provides sewing terms you might not already be familiar
that may have kept us warm in holiday-themed sweaters but
with. And for you sewing experts out there, this book provides
certainly didn’t serve the demands of our constantly evolving
insight into great techniques (like circular ruffles) and challenges
sense of style. The proliferation of the DIY philosophy and
you to design your own pattern variations. Each project is rated
the burgeoning popularity of shows like Project Runway have have
by skill level, from one to three buttons. One is beginner-friendly, beginner-friendly,
encouraged people to reinvent this craft, and in response,
while three is for more experienced experienced sewers. Whether you’re just
BurdaStyle has risen to the challenge of keeping pace with the
starting out or your closet is already full of your own handmade
demands of this savvy audience.
clothing, this book will introduce you to new ideas.
Five years later, the popularity of the website has surpassed
People who sew know how good it feels to put on that new
all of our wildest dreams! Our community is made up of more
dress they just finished; it is an empowering skill to conceive
than half a million active members with more than 250 sewing
and design your own look, to be able to say that you made
clubs throughout the world. The open-source approach invites
it yourself. We know this because of the hundreds of projects
users of all skill levels to share their patterns, comments, and
enthusiastically uploaded to our site every month. Now we want
expertise, encouraging others to recognize that creating fash-
you to share in that same enthusiasm that so many of us cher-
ionable, custom-fitted clothing is often much easier than you
ish. We hope that this book will further your passion for creating
think. Some members even conduct virtual “sew-alongs” on
and enable you to take the next step into the exciting world of
the site, where participants from all over the globe sew from the
sewing and fashion design.
Introduction Introductio n
7
Ulla-Maaria Engestroem in her sewing studio in Finland.
chapter
1
chapter
1
GETTING ST S TA RTE TED D Every time we see a great sewing space, we experience a certain voyeuristic thrill. Oftentimes Oftentimes we’re amazed by the clever use of space and savvy layouts many sewers and designers have created for themselves in their studios, and we aren’t ashamed to admit to adopting some of their great ideas in our very own sewing areas. In many sewing rooms, you will find an arsenal of sewing tools, supplies, and accessories. This chapter will introduce you to your new accomplices in creating your very own customized wardrobe, and will break down exactly what you’ll need to get started. If you’ve never even touched a sewing machine, this section will provide you with enough ammunition to begin with confidence.
THE SEWING STUDIO Over the years, Alison’s sewing spaces have progressed from
to begin with, but your focus will be on your current project,
kitchen counters to shared art-school spaces, from windowless
which deserves your undivided attention.
closets to her current studio in the former maid’s quarters of
Though it is not mandatory, having a space designated for
her home in Brooklyn. No matter where she’s setting up shop,
sewing can help you stay organized and better accomplish your
Alison’s sewing mantra is “clear the clutter” before you begin
sewing projects from start to finish. If you don’t have the extra
a new project. We know not everybody has the extra space to
space for your very own sewing room, don’t fret; you just need
spread out, but really it’s the preparation that requires the most
to get creative.
space. Alison recommends delegating a large, flat surface for transferring patterns and for cutting out pieces in fabric. When it comes time to sew up your creation, you can get by with setting up your sewing machine on a small desk or tabletop. For sewing room “feng shui,” she urges you to put away any other projects you’re working on in order to have a more fruitful experience. Not only does this create a nice clean slate for you
10
The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook
Above: Hanging Hanging shelves, a thread thread rack, and pegboards pegboards attached attached to the wall can make a small space feel larger while creating easy access to your sewing tools and accessories. A clean, flat surface makes for an ideal patternmaking and cutting table, and the drawers can hide unwanted clutter.
Baby bottles and old jam jars make for the perfect rickrack and notions containers.
BurdaStyle member Ophelia K’s sewing supplies stash—old shoeboxes—work great as storage containers for all of her sewing needs.
Getting Started
Scouring thrift stores and flea
11
Scouring thrift stores and flea markets for vintage sewing supplies can add a retro touch to your sewing space— and get you some good deals!
Vintage jars and old glass dishes make fun storage vessels.
12
The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook
“ Since I’m a beginner, I don’t have a lot
“ Since I’m a beginner, I don’t have a lot of supplies. I use a vintage desk and a bookshelf for everything: fabric is in neat stacks, notions are in a big salad bowl, and tools go in the wrist drawer of the desk.” —INDIANA ADAMS, FOUNDER, ADORED AUSTIN AN D MA DE TH IS / LO VE TH IS
“ My space generally becomes total chaos while I’m working on a project, but I do make a point of putting everything back when I’m finished, before I start on the next project. And everything has a specific place, so I don’t waste time looking for something while I’m working—assuming I’ve put it away and it’s not hiding under a pattern piece or something. ” —LIESL GIBSON, DESIGNER, OLIVER + S AND LISETTE
Getting Started
For starters, we recommend finding a clean, flat surface
You’ll notice that most sewing machines have a little light
for tracing patterns and cutting out fabric, large enough to
that turns on when your machine does to illuminate your
fit the pattern sheets included in this book. Many BurdaStyle
stitches—but you’ll definitely need more light than that to sew.
members clear off their dining-room tables to spread out their
A bright overhead light, desk lamp, lamp, or natural light will help you
sewing projects—this surface is ideal for transferring patterns
see those tiny stitches an d seam lines more clearly.
13
For starters, we recommend finding a clean, flat surface
You’ll notice that most sewing machines have a little light
for tracing patterns and cutting out fabric, large enough to
that turns on when your machine does to illuminate your
fit the pattern sheets included in this book. Many BurdaStyle
stitches—but you’ll definitely need more light than that to sew.
members clear off their dining-room tables to spread out their
A bright overhead light, desk lamp, lamp, or natural light will help you
sewing projects—this surface is ideal for transferring patterns
see those tiny stitches an d seam lines more clearly.
to paper and for laying out fabric for cutting. If you’re afraid of damaging a nice tabletop, lay a cutting mat down on top of it or on the floor, but look out for your spine. Alison once helped sew part of a garment for a friend whose sewing machine was set up on her bedroom floor—by the time Alison was finished acting as seamstress-cum-contortionist, her back was killing her! To save your spine, we highly recommend setting up your sewing machine on a desk or table and adjusting your seat so that your arms are at a 90-degree angle to your body.
14
The BurdaStyle Sewing Handbook
Spread out your patterns on a diningroom or kitchen table for a makeshift patternmaking studio.
Getting Started
15
