The 3rd Citadel Compendium 1988

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WE-LECIM]E TCI TTI]E- TII]IIRD ENTADE-IL- ECIM]FEN]DIIUM] Yel again the never-resting entrails of the Citadel Beast have heaved forth a new edition of The Citadel Compendium. This edition is our most heavily illustrated yet, simply brimming with new and redesigned models. Citadel miniatures are made for gamers and collectors, each and every model is hand-crafted by our infamous design zombies and brought to you via the machinations of our dedicated, hard-working and hardly-maltreated-at-all staff. The Compendium is published once a year, forming a catalogue of Citadel miniatures that will remain available throughout that year. This edition will remain good for the whole of 1986 - or until we decide to publish a new edition (probably around the back-end of the year). This Compendium replaces the previous edition, and models illustrated in the old catalogue, but not in this onet may no longer be available: unfortunately, our moulds have only a short Iife span, and it is noL possible to keep models in production

forever.

In addition to the models illustrated herein - we call them

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irregulary, approxirnately four times a year, arid contains a host of articles on gaming, modelling and all aspeL-ts of fantasy models. The Journal also illustrates a selection of nerv models for the Compendium Selection, enablinq you to keep abreasl of new developments in the fantasy field. We hope that you'll enjoy the Citadel Compendium. If you have any ideas for new models, qames or articles why not drop us a line? Sadly, we are unable to reply to every sinqle letter we receive, but we'll do our best: an S.A.[. helps. So, don't delay - your ideas may help shape the future of fanlasy models and games.. Similarlyr let us have your letters and artwork.for publication - if:we like your contribution we'll print it in a futurs Journal or Compendium for everyone to see.

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fill Buorimil Fnilflus HOW TO BUITD A FANTASY INN By Gory Cholk

'rllfi-€nrAso\t wtstY Fmnffi'r :::r::-:: is full of inns and taverns. The Prancing Pony at $Fqm- *anx:-=r*": Silver Eel and the Vulgar Unicorn in Santuaryts \dhe mq sL -l--3,:: and yet all resemble each other in one respect - :t*llim?;r 1:Ef:?-:. Thieves go to a tavern to plot, wizards to seek mrlld ]rrri:T-*:ir:r. and adventurers to hang about, look macho and, iirnm@fi-lf -- r:: -.:eC. Anyone who is anyone will, at some time or M]Inmit'rfler. --.e tr :is horse outside and swaqger in to the taproom lcr..m

=f,- l:.

.&[ imm' -i.:t_.

:rr sees so rnuch traffic, it's quite a useful model r -u-:.:-. er or tabletop qeneral to possess, As well as ulr.nnil,,rdtr'c ; , 3^Je f or the ever popular bar-room brawl, it can rtr'Tril,r[E = =::i:te1;-\ safe haven during the BIack-Rider season and S,Ne il- g.rr:-:el3d adventurer a chance to part with some of his rasn. ll,s {-::-.j:'lj any tabletop town or village will contain an inn, ll.Jm MK--'a-*e: :eneral can use sr.rch a building many times to ;[srnr' @ : ,--?: range of battle scenarios. frrm

:rr::s dil.l find a tavern's well-stocked bar far more $. :-=r fighting the enemy. Whether, as a general, yor.r r:;i:rr: flTxrurt '--ris as an annoyance or a welcome distraction will @Brc r '--E :ro.ps under your command. Who in the Northlands ur,i,I *rer !:!:!e! i e chaos at the Battle of Bugman's Brewery. 'Eul3mr',.mr:

@ffi,af1

4, n@!rFa[

:'r-. stuck in the middle of a hotly-contested battlefield

':i a: irteresting

and unsual three-cornered game, with til,flre rnr+:e::e: and his guests taking on troops from the opposing ilmrries- --r.s *culd be especially true of an inn whose cellars (use ffimmtur* a-r: a map) extended in all directions under the table. Bern rTr@re

Size. Work out the overall size of the model first. The tavern in the photographs is approximately 23 inches square, the size of one of my terain modules. Someone making their first buildlrrg would be well advised to lry something a little more modest. Once you

have decided the overall size, you can then work out the number of rooms that can be accommodated within the space. It is better to have a few relatively targe roorns rather than a lot of small ones as a figurets base can take up an awful lot of space. A small tavern could have as few as three rooms: the bar itself, a kitchen and the owner's living room - plus, perhaps, a privy out the back. One last thing to remember about the size of your model is that when it is finished you have to have somewhere to put it. Don't make a model larger than your storaqe space.

The Base. The base of your model should fit in with the rest of your wargames scenery, both from lhe point of view of colour and general texture. My inn was based on l+" chipboard as are my other terrain modules. 5maller models could use piywood or hardboard. Donrt use card for the base of any model of this size, as it will warp and curl up at the edges. The stronger the base, the stronqer the whole model will be.

Time. The larger the model, the longer it will take to complete. If you donrt have a lot of time, make a small building. You cantt use an unfinished model and the longer it is left unfinished the more likely you are to lose interest in it.

4ttsmrll-r:a::: :apsters and guests could pop up frorn concealed sr(rt1lrss a* :;er the place, while intruders entering the little!@d :.rn'ei: ard vaults might find all sorts of strange beasts rLrLfrl*n,rq

t-rer=-

m-ffitil.r|3 Mrn e ,'s- :-.r;h to your work-benches, the light of creativity bull-:l; in your eye, it is best to do a little planninq. Joi

hulrmrrnq dihrurr m fun

't'-es under the following headings:

Style. As you can see from the photographs,'The

Man in the Moon'

built in a western-european medieval style, usinq stone, tiles and half-timbering. An inn built in a desert land or in a forest half way up a mountain would be built in a different style using locally obtained materials. A desert tavern would probably be built of mud brick, while one in a forest would be constructed solidly of timber. If you feel a bit lost when deciding on the style of your building, try the junior reference section of your local library. These general.ly have lots of highly illustrated books on history or is

iife in other countries which

can be very useful,

These can then be glued in irregular groups on the base of the model, botlr inside and out, to represent paving stones. Any parts of the buildinq with stone walls should also be treated iq the same way. In addition, the corners of any stone walls should be carefully built over with plasticard rectangles to give the appearance of the heavy stonework found on the corners of real buildings. Not only does this make lhe building look more realistic, it also neatly hides the join where card is glued together.

MATERIALS

Material

Use

Chipboard/plywood/hardboard

The base

Mounting card (available at art shops)

Walls and roof

Thin card (available at arl shops)

Roof tiles

Any other structures, such as fences, inn yard walls, privies and so on should now be stuck in position on lhe base.

Polystyrene ceiling tiles

Exterior walls, where the thickness of the wall can be seen. Irregularities and

Thin down some Tetrion plaster with water and, using an old brush,

hillocks on the base. Balsa strip and rod

Beams and door and window frames

Balsa block

Chimney stacks

Plasticard

Paving stones

Stonework texture on walls

Tetrion ready-mixed plaster

Texture for walls and base

Bostik/Uhu

Gluing together wood

and

Gluing ceiling tiles (other glues rnelt them)

Emulsion paints

Building walls and base, Ceiling tiles (other paints may melt them)

Citadel acrylic paint or

Beams and other details

Humbrol enamel paint Grass mat

Lawn/grass on base

Ready made trees/bushes

Base decoration

Ready made fencinq

Base decoration

painted over, the plastec being used not only to create texture, but to fill any qaps between the walls and base. The exterior base should now be painted with Tetrion, using a thicker rnix than was used on the walls.

While the plaster is dryinq, it can be quite a good idea to get on with the roofs. The mounting card roof pieces must be liled using thin card, lhis is the most boring bit of the entire model - but it does give a very realistic effect. First cut the thin card into strips about

card Wood Glue (Resin W, etc)

paint the interior walls, covering any plasticard stonework and painting up to the edqes of the beams. The floor should also be

coi.tsTRucTIoNt The first step in constructing the model is to draw out a rouqh plan on a piece of paper, with all the dimensions'and door and window positions marked. This can save you lots of confusion and wasted time later, Take your sheet of mounting card and, usinq a ruler and a set-square, transfer the dimensions from your rough and draw up the wall and roof pieces. Draw the windows and doorways in position. It is vital that you use a set-square for this stage of the operation or the pieces will be so inaccurate that none of them will fit together properly.

Using a ruler and a sharp craft-knife or scalpel, cut the various pieces. Cut out the windows and any of the doors you wish to have open on the finished model. I left all of mine shut, using the basic mounting card to represent wood, outlining the doors with frames cut from strip balsa glued into position round the edge. The next.stage of construction is the woodwork on the models. Use balsa strip for the door and window frames and thicker balsa rod for the edges of the beams with a scalpel rounding off the sharp edges and makinq them slightly inegular. This will give them a far more realistic appearance than if they are left with a 'factory finishedr look. Real timber framing often employed whole tree trunks with considerable twists and turns. These were then shaped roughly with an adze (a mattock-like carpenter's tool) before being placed in position. Only in the houses of the rich were beams finished and squared off properly. Using Bostik or Uhu the finished beams are glued into position. As rThe Man in the Moon' was rather large and involved, I decided to apply beams only to the outside of the building, the interior woodwork being confined to doorframes and a raised gallery in the main bar-room. The number of beams you put on is up to you. Window and door frames are also glued into position at this stage.

The building walls are then glued into position on the base, again using impact adhesive. The thickness of the mounting card allows the corners to be simply butted and glued. As the whole structure is being mounted on a firm base, this will prove to be quite strong enough.

The plasticard should now be cut into a number of rectangles of different sizes, the maximum being about half an inch square.

l"

long by J/8" wide. You will need enough of these to cover

the roof area of your model about 1| times. These strips should then be nicked every |" or so, with a pair of scissors to represent strips of tiles. These should then be glued to the mounting card roof sections, starting from the bottom edge and working up, overlapping each successive row. The crown of the roof should be finished off with a folded piece of thin card. The whole structure can then be painted wilh thinned down Tetrion in the sarne manner as the walls. The model can now be painted. For the larqe areas of walls, roofs and base, I would recommend using household emulsion paints. Not only can they be used.straight from the tin, but. they carr also be mixed wilh powder paint to give a large range of colours and shades at a low price. Small amounts of emulsion paint are available in the form of Crown Matchpots, samples of paint which contain enough for several buildings. Beams and other details are best painted using Citadel or Humbrol paints, after the main areaS have been painted and dry-brushed to pick out the texture. The model is now ready for any litlle details that you feel would give the place eharacter, I added some miniature brewery posters, but anything from a pot plant lo a portrait of the Iandlordrs mother will make the place look lived in. Citadel produce a beautiful range of furniture, beds, chairs, tables and so on to get the building ready for opening time, and many suitable figues for scullions,

PRPARII\G TO PAINT

PAIMTIT

For the benefit of the beginner about to embark upon the task of painting up his Warhammer regiment I'll run through the basie materials needed.

Knife and files. These are needed to trim flash and other bils of unwanted metal from the model. Moulding lines, a thin line of metal all the way round a model, can be removed easily with a file. Vents, runs in the mould that let air out, may appear as strands of metal or nipples on points of detail and require filing or cutting flat. A hobby knife is sharp, so remember, make cuts away from yourself just in case you slip. Simiiarly don't put too much pressure on the blade, as it may snap. Always exercise the utmost care when using sharp knives as they are danqerous if not used properly.

Undercoat. All rnetal models must be undercoated before painting. This is essential, otherwise the paint wontt stick to the model, and will appear thin and mottled. The most sensible way of undercoating rnodels is to use a car type undercoat, available in spray cans from any motorist shop, garage and some hobby shops. Most painters use a white undercoat, which takes colour very well. For mass paintinq techniques, however, I prefer to use a black undercoat. Buy yourself a can of each. Brushes are a must. Good brushes are a worthwhile investment. Most. model shops sell decent brushes, as do art shops. Yourll need a 1, a 0 and a 00. You can get away with fewer brushes, it depends on what you're comfortable with. As long as the brush has a good point it will suffice. Brushes do wear out - so be prepared to trirn off stray bristles and buy a new brush every so often. Water-based paints are used by almost all serious model painters these days. At this point I have to step in and plug our own waterbased range of paint, Citadel Colour. We have gone to a lot of trouble to ensure that our paint is ideally suited to our models and I can t.horoughly recommend it. Having said that any water-based paint will do the job. They all intermix in any case.

PAINTING REGIMENTS FOR

Sorne modellers prefer enamels, oils and other exotic mediums, The advantages of these older methods are dubious, even when applied to individual models. It is assumed that water-based paints are to be used.

BY RICK PRIESTLEY l

l l

iu

Citadel Compendium has always featured at least l* :*- :?s:. :rE::,-::n_c"e:article, and the same is true of our quarterly -::=: :: tne Journal. Howevet, lhese articles have always ::-r::r-€: thernselves with the art of painting individual models :'--=- :: = very high standard indeed. Painting models in this way, :r€ :: = :i-ne, can take forever. This is fine if you're painting up r =:,3.i.lrer for a role-play campaign, or an army general or M r=r:. rjt when il comes to painting whole regiments different :.::--:r,:es are needed. In this article I'm going Lo discuss :*:r:--::s that lend themselves to painling whole regiments :--:
Pot - a pot (jam-jar, cup, beaker, etc) is needed for water so that you can thin paint, clean brushes, etc. Many people say that separate pots are needed for metallic paints, for liqht colours and for dark colours. If you feel happy sumounded by jars of water then thatrs fine. In any case, clean out your water when it gets dirty. This ensures lhat your paint stays clean, and lessens the chances of breeding deadly mosquitoes in the living room.

Palette - something lo daub paint onto. An old plate, saucer, Lile or anything similar will do, Paper is O.K. so long as it isnrt too porous.

Space

- not the final frontier, but just somewhere to workl a fine. Cover this with a good thick layer of newspaper

tabletop is

PA'{TINE REGIMENTS

:'i=::: putting brush to paint, think about what youtre trying to do. ':'- :l-nost certainly intend to use your painted regiment as part of rrr'3r1ammer game, or a tabletop battle game of some kind. As = :-:' remember the following points: -. '.iost of the time your models will be seen from over two feet :rray. Aim to make the models look good from a distance not. f:c'n a few inches. Super-detail is not needed and may even

because, believe me, everyone spills paint now and again, and getting the stuff off carpets, tablecloths and family pets isn't always easy.

Light - the more the better. Daylight is best, but a strong spotlamp or reading lamp will provide adequate illumination. Remember daylight and artificial light aren't the same model painted in one will look quite different in another.

at all,

a

detract from the overall appearance.

PREPARING THE MODELS

:.

Your models will be seen in a large regirnental block. The

Line up the regiment to be painled. Workinq through lhem one at a time, clean off any flash, mould lines or other unwanted bits of metal. There is nothing more annoying than finding a huge patch of rnetallic crud once yourve started painting. When yourre through lhe models are ready for undercoating.

3.

R.egiments of models never stand alone. They will appear against other regiments, scenery and the tabletop itself, Dull or sublle colours will simply vanish in sitations like thisr as rvill subtle shading and minor detail. Even a briqht colour will appear subdued when viewed from a dislance and amongst the usual rnass of tabletop green: so don't be afraid of using bright, strong colours. For the same reason avoid pastels and other light. shades; a primary colour or a shade of equivalent strength will give a clearer, cleaner result.

UNDERCOATING

models you choose will create a sort of visual rhythm, especially if they are all the salrre - as with a Regiment of Renown. That overall rhythm is an added dimension that you must consider. Don't break lhat rhythm by using too many Cifferent colours or subdued shading.

For the technique described you'll need a black undercoat. Make sure that the models get a thorough covering. Il is best to touch up thin or silvery patches with black paint just to make sure. When spraying remember paint will go everywhere - so best do it out of doors, and use a box or newspaper to cut down on overspray. Sprav as many models at once as you can. Two light coats may be necessary.

BAS$\G

TJT{IFORMS AND NOT

Ij *,:,lels are s.loiiebasei Lh3.l attaca the "rcdels to Lheir bases :E}*- :x::<" r s:*,-, :s :s ;rod zs anr-t'riu,

qoing for an assorted rag-taq effect, then vary the bits you you go through. This way the first warrior receives a brow

PA,fr{T}G

lte

:j-E '.tdet'croa: :s fur rrr.l cail start ta paint. I leave undercoat

S led a c.or.tr}l.e :f \ari.:rs- It js best tc leave it overnight if 3"efone oantinc \ave a gmd look at the models anJ plan 1ltjr :ai.*-rs. VgiJ c,ptria,bl, trare an idea of what you want the lF:r

;mdbrle-

:Eoiment fo lmk like a_le:dy_

Tire easiest .rethod of painting quickly and neatly is to paint severa-l 'nodels at a ti.ne, L0 being a convenient number. Beqin by paintirq trre skin and work out: inner-clothing, outer-clothinq, arrl(Irr, belts, etc. 5o, start by mixing a batch of your skin coloui.

apply ttre paint onto the areas of exposed flesh, leaving a :aTfully little of Lhe black undercoat showing at the edges and in deep creases in tip flesh {such as between fingers), This line of blact

becopg5 your shading, and will help to deliniate the different parts of the model when seen from a distance. How much black you

leave is up

If painting uniforms qive all of the models the sarne colol the sarne colour jerkin, etc. If you donrt want a uniform.

to you. The amount of black will create an oveiall

style, or look, so it is worth experimenting a tittle at first. Similarly the density of your flesh paint will alter the feel of the overall model, Two coats applied one after the other may be

required for a really solid appearance.

the next a brown jerkin, the next brown ttousers, ana Remember, if yourre painting a Regiment of Renown all models will be in the same basic poiition. It is best to pa;

troops uniformly, so as not. to detract frorn the strong. visual rhythm. If you don't want a uniforrn appearance ir regiment, then it is best to use colours of a similar i. throughout, especially browns, greys antJ other drab coloursway the colours will sit happily with each other, and wor., the regirnent look like a discordant kaleidoscope, Colour r something you will pick up - if in doubt have a iook around : player's models, METALLICS

The pigment in all metallic paint is relatively crude - compl of ground metal powder. For this reason it handled carefully, and you may find it easiest to leave until i handled too much it will tend to rub off. If placed onto o. n€ paint it will seep, and the same is true if you attempt to paii it. For many years I avoided the stuff altogether, prefering shades of grey and brown. Then I discoverld Windsor and i. poster paint metallics, which are simply the best paint of th and are thoroughly recornmended. The Citadel metallics are qood too and stand comparison. All lhese are water-based. suspension

DETAIL

Once all of the colours are on your models you are finishec :?SiTunt. is. ready for final basing and varnishing before bloodied in battle. If you have been careful the ov6rall appe is one of neatness and clarity - a few little touches rr necessaty to correct the odd mistake here and there, or to additional black shading on small features.

If you have the tirne you might like to add a little detail t, details as eyes, claws, teeth and so on, Remember - your rec has to look good from several feet distance, not from an ir two. If you paint on too much detail you will break up thr

patches of colour, and detract frorn the overall appea Knowing when and where to apply detail is something you'l up.

Once you have done the flesh on the l0 models, work through again qa!1tjng the next. colour, once more leaving a line of blaet- to deliniate the colour area. You will notice that paint applied over black always looks fairly dull. you must compensate ior this by

using

a brighter eolour than you actually want, so an orange

yellow becomes a buff eolour, To get a reafy btight colour you must either use two coats of palnt, oi paint the area white before applying the actual colour. This is more true of pe.cgmes brown, and

some colours than others, especially red and yellow.

Eyes -. look effective painted solidly black, with a tiny dot of ln each corner, Alternatively, leave plain black. l.or a reall

look painl a bright red or yellow dot right in the middie black. For. a starey, manic, look, i"deally suited to

r

Berserkers, Hobgoblins and mad magicians, paint a srnall whi in the centre of the black. These mlthods'wonrt win vou indi

fiqure prizes at.Games Day - but they will look good tabletop.

Teeth. If the model has an

c

open yelling mouth leave the

black. Paint tongue, throat, eic red, ora'nge, yellow or a

s

colour, leaving plenty of black for shadow. Ficf out the tee| white, or off-white, Use a small brush, and try to leave ver\ but solid, lines of black between the teeth. Wf,ere tnis is Jii wipe most of the paint from your brush until it is'dry', now rr tip.over the teeth the pick out the detail, This tends to loo! lndislinct, but is sometimes the only way of detailing reall

teeth.

Claws. Claws start off as basic black. They will look best I

1

colour over only the most accessible portion, leaving a good d black at the root of the claw and underrieath. WnitJ, yell grey are all good claw colours.

Studs. Studs, rivet heads and the like are a but fiddly to around. The easiest thinq to do is simply to paint right over

in.the surrounding colour. For exampie,'if you're painting a shield, paint the whole shield brown, including any studs. bnc base.coat is.dry, paint each rivet with a blob of black, inclur small area about {mm wide round the rivet. Once the black you can paint the rivet itself either silver, qunmetal or bronz this way each rivet is surrounded by a black shadow, and will stand out. This inethod can be used to pick out any small d such as a wart on an Ogte's nose, or the draw-strinqs on a pouc

I

-\ili

iir

lili iil

i i

ir;

i

i'

':-:..n{. :. ''.- = ,- _-,.. :onsidered solid colours - a brown ', :-r ::r: ::1. :_: i::t can add detai.l and inlerest by r : r : :: :-::,::. ::rti-rolo,.lred clothing (like a jester's ; r' r:: :--:. :-t, =.el'reinber, designs of this kind create ::: -i :--: -.:- *,si nJL qo aqainst the underlyinq slrape '-':: - -: '.-: :-::ern ivili iend Lo break up the form of :,1: '-l Daint, especially over folds and ,--:alried onto a large area, repeated :=^ l::k \,ary effective. When painting a :^ ---^l^.,^^ ^^^t^^l ^rL^:-: :olcurs appear nexl to eaclr other, and :::<:: e,Jge to broaden the contrast. For .= r:i and wl-rit.e sLripedr first paint the :-:- a:ll1 the stripes in red. Now mix a r:' :^: :rin it dolvn with water. Take your ::::'-ilv :aint a fine line on the edqe of t.he :-. ..-.13. If you have a spare, clean, moist -. r:-:,,'e slray dark red if it geLs onto the ,: -.:-:i ihe contrast, reproducing the effect ' :: .::s:ino colour worLld give.

Dry-brushing. This method is more i'-in: ..':- ---: .-: -:i :l

useful for mass paintinq. Make up a iig". s-a:::i rl-i:::: colour. Wipe most of the painL from the 5::s- l::.i^:.- :r''' :=--Now brush over the area to be hiqhlighled, smali a-::-rs.' will catch in the raised areas producing a highii,rli -'::::i, -^:: rnethod lends to wash out the colours slighlly, vrhich is al:::": '' that's the effect you want. Dry-brushing looks qood or 'srr'::'."' troops, especially Goblins and their kind.

SASING THE COMPLETED MODELS

it only remains to cornplele the varnish. Make sure all of the models are firmly attached to their slottabases, and reglue any that appear wobbly. Before covering lhe base with scenic flock il is best to The models are now painted and bases before appiying

paint a black area around the model's feet. This is left clear, and makes tire figule stand out off tlre ground, instead of looking as if he's buried in it, Now paint the rest of the base green - the edges of the slottabase can be painted green to match your tabletop' or black to make them stand out. Our own models are often lefl with black edges, as we take photos for our garnes and magazines they must appear clear. If your troops arenrl slottabased then you ivill have to rnake card bases anC glue the models to them.

Once paint is dry, blob srnall arrrounts of glue to the top of tlre base and apply scenic flock. Flock can be bought from railway hobby stores. Tea leaves will do if you paint them green once dry, and dry brush over rvith yellow lo create depth. Rernember to leave a Iittle black around the model's feet. VARNISHING

Varnish is needed to protect your finished models, especially if they are to see a lot of hard fightinq, travellinq and handlinq. Paint will invariabley chip, wear, or flake off if you don't varnish. Varnish coines in spray cans just like undercoal (try not to confuse the two!), It can be bouqht frorn almosl any rnodel shop or art shop and comes in two kinds matt and gloss. Which you use is a matter of taste. Matt varnish looks more nalural, but gloss varnish is far tougher, and many people find the glossy appearance more

altractive. Matt

r:: -r: ::qrire shadinq, t-he i'rard sltadinq prr:vided :: : : -":::enl-. iVhen painLing indlvidual rnodels f or : . ::::riial, bLrt on lhe tableL,rp it can make the r:r r. ::jrcinq the visual impacl of the colours. := -' ,.. =- C sele'tive.iy applie.C, shatling can help to .: -1:= :: :i a regi,nent-,

::

: r r-: -: -:::ing or', rvhatever yJU want to call it, is the -.'-: ':: sradirl regi:nents. If a nrodel has a '.-:: .-.,s rllthinq t.hen this will Lerrd to look odd if . . -=:<,::' shade of the base colour, alrnost blacl< : -:. : -: sicv cr brownish for Iigirt c:lours. i.low, :-: r::13? .vlth a solid Iine - a single stroke of the " :=. --: effecl is tit give a hard shaclcw. Although . -,: :,rs: Jp, oncp on Lhe table it rvill appear far : -:- 3-\' amount of farcy, finely-qradated sharlirrq.

varnish also seems to be more absorbant, and will

atLract dirt and grease, whereas qloss valnish can be cleaned or dusted more easily, If you want a matt finish it is best to varnish with gloss first (for toughness) and then again lightly with matt. N4ost of our own collections are qlossy (having spent hours on painting and converting we try to protect our models as best we can). However, glossy models are difficult lo photograph because of lhe way briqht light reflects from them, shorvinq up as white patches. For this reason rnost of the models you'll see in our rnagazines are matt varnished. Often they receive a coat of malt varnish just for the pholo, and are re-glcssed aflerwards.

--

: : as'r mi< up a dark shade of lhe colour to ite : ::.vr vrith a litlle water. Pairrl iL on Lo lhe arBa :-: - rerjiatel,v rvipe off the bulk of it ( tissue, rag, --= :a!ri ,vill be left in Lhe crack and creases, :: : : - : :, rr3. You ,nust be caref ul when using this : - : :raCinq will break up the colour arr:as. The ::: :::::r rrf ti-ris techrrique is to paint faces and : : -::-ralj" craqgy, so need shacling if they are to :.

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r

-,

r',s rr-. not absolutely essenlial, but if done

: -:lirrlrj is rsed to emphasise a prorninanf = r:,serl line Lhat would natura.lly catch the

:.:r rf i :ur base co.lour. That usually means ::" liqrier qreens, browns and reds with :i:ri-" calo,rr onLo the raised area, giving

i

l:: rat ô' tu 'lvprdr this, noc to fver-

: -,-: :--:r:.i. T1-. result must IoLrk cledible from a ':::, Tiis :nelhotl can be used to highligtrt =-:::' :..,.:.-. ,-': ::,:. :airirr-. a pale stlipe across Lhe forehead, .. -' :-. : - - :-: ::,.,,n ihe rrirlqe of the nose.

l'-L

BLANCHI ! its alriqhr for hirn, he dosrnt have to carry the ------ things.

STANDARDS

The focal point of any regirnent is its standard - and you wi.ll find lt worth spending tiine on this. The easiest way to learn horv to paini a starrdard is to copy one. The work of mastet standard pa!nLars. suclr as David Andrews and John Blanche are well worth coovir:. John has even painted a special set of Warhammer standarCs f:: this Compendium, and you can cut these out and use lhen fcr r'::: own regiments if you Iike. Aiternatively copy thern oui. -.i:l::: thern sliqltlly trt;troduce a new and original design,

NEW@MONSTERS NEW DEMON MIGHTY A-ANGOR THE GIGANTIC BALROG - SLAYER OF GODS Most foul and deadly of all his kind is the Balrog Aangor, Slayer of Gods, Great Demon of the Deepest Pits of HelI. Before him even

Balrogs and Demons quail in terror, squealing pitifully Iike

squashed infanbs. His body is black beneath a cake of running sores and blood-crusted fur. His skin sweats sickly scented blood, his

foaming jaws spit rotting gore, and dark blood pours constantly from his ears, nostril.s and eyes. Every inch of his body is slimy and slippery with vileness. The stench of decay and putrescent flesh that he exudes is alone sufficient to tear apart the mind of a mortal. This is the least of Aangor's powers, for he is also a potent. wizard, with dark and unfathomable secrets; magics far beyond the scope of living creatures.

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10

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"t Special Rules. Aangor can fly as a lander. As a Greater Demon he causes fear and terror in all livinq creatures. He is immune to psychological effects, unless caused by gods. He is immune to normal weapons. As a Balroq he is immune to all fire attacks and fire based maqic. He attacks in combat with 6 claws, 3 stomps and a

tail-lash.

Aangor can breathe fire in the same way as a Dragon, causing 2D6 at a range of lZtt. He eannot breathe fire in combat.

strength 10 hits

Aangor is a mighty wizard as urell as a creature of brule force and unfathomable energies. He is the equivalent to a level 4 wizard with a Magic Constution Level of 100 and the following spells. Level Level

1 Fire Ball 2 Aura of Protection Lightninq Bolt Smash

Level

I Arrow Invulnerability Cause Stupidity

Level

4

Dispel Aura Blast Stand

Still

In addition Aangor has a special spell of his own Burst Flesh. Spell Level Enerqy

4 15

Description This spell

may be used against an individual or unit of living creatures within 12" If used against a unit it will effect up to D6 individuals. Tarqets have their usual magical saving thro\xs. if they fail these then their living tissues will swell, brains expanding to divide skulls, bowels heaving and crawling from splitting stomachs, internal organs exploding into a mass of tangled, writhing gore. This causes the instant death of its victims - and surviving members of the unit must take an immediate rout

test.

'' '/., , .1 -' o'. ttlu'

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NEW ELEMENTALS These new Elemental types are further manifestations of natural forces, akin to the basic elernents of earth. air, fire and water. They have an affinity with one of the 4 elernents, and will not attacki, and cannot harm, other Elementals of that type, All the general rules that apply to Elernentals hold true for these new ones ( see page 47 of the Warhammer Battle Bestiary ). M

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LIFE ELEMENTAL

Life Elementals are aliied to the flementals of the Earth. Unlike

other Earth Elernentals, however, thay are tall and graceful, as a young tree or a beautif,-rl woman. They are creatures of the growirrg earth, the .notivatinq force that gives life to plants and plant spirits- As such lhey are revered especially by the Elves who, more than a-r;; other race, are preoccupied with living tlrings,

plartq sii'::::latin.g herbs and other vegetable derived l'e same as for Earth Elementals, except that Life ilems-tals cf size 5 or qreater can cast a Hedge of usefr-rl

zubstances- R.-.:l:s a:=

Thcns soeil father ilar- the usual Assault of Slone.

CTJI-CT{AN

The Culchan is a hugfe, flightless, carniverous:::::ta: l,,e: -^the pampas qrasslands of Lustria. It is prized by Pr:-::: a': :,,:-for its rnulti-coloured plumes and for ils flesh, c:.:::::=: : delicacy by Pyqmies and Slann alike' The creatures aie :(:::-=. fierce, but can be used as riding beasts if hanC :ea:e:. Consequently eqgs or hatchlings are very valuable'

Physique. These unusual birds have strong legs and necksr vrhiisl their head is similar to that of a parrot. Their beaks are

exceptionally stronq, and ean easiiy crack a manrs skull. Plumage is usually brown, but males in good condition grow a completel;' new set of colourful red and blue plumage, as well as long tails and

crests. They reach World

8

- 9rin height.

Distribution. The grasslands of Southern Lustria.

Alignment. Neutral. Special Rules. I bite from the beak and Subject to stupidity.

I stomp from the legs.

Basic Profile,

:[:--

- ai,,i:\TAL

- " .:

- .." :.:-:---.,"

to the Elementals of the Earth, : - -::-"::-:: :-: -::?:ive side of the force - that which reclaims i : '- -:: -:: ir: busom of the earth, enabling continual ":: -:- '::- :*:::il, The balance between life and death is :- : i : .:..r::::re, for each feeds the otherin a continuous , r -i- -:- :-: :':r:. R':les are the same as for other Earth i,:::: :.at a Death flemental cannot use an Assault - .-:-:.: ' .::-: ::: --::aal, any Elemental of strength 5 or more may , : ::-,,:: :allel the Squeeze of Death. The Elemental .s also allied

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4

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I

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,: -:: :- :^r :ndividual .livinq model causing an automatic - :.'-: :.--:::::iva of toughness and without recourse to : ': :--: : :' :rr kind. Range equals the Elementai's size in -:-:: : :. I = j". s:ze 10 = l0"r etc ). This powet can be used in -::nal attacks. r : -::: :: :-, =. : -:

:r_.1.ti,8 :LaL,IENTAL

-- : : : : --=-:aj :f lhe air. Its arrival can easily be fortold by a ::':-:- :- :^:Sreeze, as of rotting flesh or garbage. Rules !:: =: ':: ::-:: Air flementals. Plague Elemerrtals can cast a $':nl:.H::::,-. l;
]r-I-TRTLE

--: , -: -- --r+.le is an aquatic reptile which spends very little of : -: - :-:::. The only occasion these creatures leave the sea :: : :-:,: eqgs, whicl-r tl-rey do along sandy beaches, buryinq --- :,':.= ::::ppearing back into the ocean. At such times they :-i ::--::r:-: a,rd aggressive, and wil.ling attack other creatutes

Physique. Adults can reach 20' in length. They resemble large snakes, wilh a head similar to that of a Draqon and large, feathered

wings, Sornetimes their whole body can be covered in feathers. The Coatl can shed and regrow plumage in any colour it chooses, leaving a cast of its old skin ralher like thal of an ordinary snal
:-",:irure. -_.:.-qcn Turtles Iook like turtles, wiLh lhe head of a - = - =-- = -3rCr spiky shetl. They are over 10'Ionq, and may be - r =:-=.. :a very larqest of lhese creatures will attack boats :- r - iaaa, *r'rlll lislrilrtion. a-rlnnner:

ceremonial cloaks and banners, World Distribution. Tropical rain forests of Lustria.

\'y'orld-wide in the oceans and coastal regions.

Alignment.

t,' .::i:al.

Special Rules. Bite attacks. Coatl are venomous. f'ly

So*-al Rules. iis Dragon Turtle causes feat in all living .:-.-. :?. --::: l-'lriall. its shell gives il a basic saving roll of a 5 :- : r- : l:. -^:.featuae has 1 bite and 1 stornp altack. tr

a_c_

Good.

Basic Profile

c 3?of ile

3

3

as

swoopeni. Cause fear in living creatures under 10ttall. Coatl can be wizards ( 5olo chance of any one individual being a wizard ). Work out profiles as points as normal for wizards.

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PUBLICATIONS

FANTASY BATTLE RULES BY BRYAN ANSELL, RICHARD HALL]WELL & RICHARD PRItrSTLEY

V!

Within the WARHAMMER Fantasy Battle Rules, you vri.ll find al.l the information needed to enable you to re-create fanlastic battles on the.tabletop. Players take command of powerful armies, cunning wizards and mighty heroes in a world where magic works and thJ nightmare creatures of legend are deadly real. To play WARHAMMER bittles, you wili need the rulebooks in this set, a selection of models, and dice. This box also contains a small selection of full-colour card models to enable you to fight out the introductory scenario. Dice and three-dimensional models are not

included.

BLOOD BATH AT ORC'S DRIFT BY IAN PAGtr, GARY CHALK & JOr DIVER King Fryar - Orc chieftain of the North - plans a swift campaign of devastation upon his enemies of old. Elves, dwarfs and men of lhe

colonial stale of Ramalia urrite to stop him - but is it a.lready too late? Find out with Orc's Drift, a specially desiqned WARHAMMER scenario pack featurinq four seperate bat'tles wlth complete battle tlaps and dispositions, cardboard armies, a full set of commancJ sheets for combatants, a selection of attractive card buildings ancJ a. comprehensive victory points schedule for each side, A -major WARHAMMER campaign in one packaqe.

ONLY, f 1.50 €?ch r : _r

_--::::r_.

fealuring

-agazine :: -:,-: :-: ttrvefting from John :_ _-::: iescriptions and full -: SLOOD ON TH= S=R=:-c \1Tl ! \--

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,::la:le from

Spring '85

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Preserrting the all new Citadel Compendium Selection of models, replacing the selection in prior Compendiums and Journals. The rnodels illustrated within these hallowed pages do not represent the entire range of Citadel Miniatures - the sum total of which would fill a tome of insanely large proportions - but, rather, comprise a limited selection from each range. The complete range of Citadel models chanqes all of the time - with a half-dozen new models made every single working day. Although we would like to provide you with a catalogue of all of our hundreds and hundreds of models this simply isn't possible! Models are continually going out of production, moulds are perpetually wearing out and new ones beinq made. Given this state of flux, industrial anarchy and managerial indecision we find it impossible to promise that any given model will or wonrt be available at any given time. The models illustrated in this catalogue, however, will remain in production for the life of this compendium (throughout 1986). We will make a heroic effort to keep these models available. Our gallant mould-makers will be beaten into producing however many moulds are necessary to ensure that these models remain available. Some of our workers will fall by the wayside, bloodied, redundant carcases littering our otherwise unsullied corridors. However, the sacrifice will be worth it.

WARNING

-

PIease remember Citadel models

are intended for serious

and

responsible collectors and gamers - they are not toys. Models contain lead which may be harmful if chewed or swallowed. Citadel miniatures are not recommended for ehiidren under l2 years of age.

Most Citadel models now come with a separate styrene Slotta-base for.gaming and display. Each base has either a pre-cut groove to take the model, or a series of weakened grooves underneath. Use a screwdriver to push out weakened qrooves where required (do not use the model tab itself or it will break). Apply glue to the tab on your model and fix to the slotta-base as shown. Slotta-bases provide a stable base for your models and are ideal for displaying your models at their best. Each model comes with an appropriately sized and shaped base, additional slottabases can be purchased separately should you wish, for a mere 2p for hexagonal, 20mm & 25mm bases, 3p for horse/monster oblong bases and 5p for 40mm bases, and 5p for flying bases,

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Models indicated come complete with a separate, moulded, hard-styrene shield; allowing, for the first time ever, realistic shield thicknesses and enhanced threedimensional effect. Each metal model is cast with a separate shield stud. Attach -. the shiels to the stud using super-qlue or similar adhesive. The studs are cunninglv moulded so that thLy can be paintea Lo represent a metal shield boss. By 1985 vre will be makinq special shield design transfers available to fit these clever ljttle devils. You can purchase extra shields for 1p each.

-../-/--

RequiresAssembly - this symbol indicates ihal i-= -::=- :: -::E-: :-: :=rf,: r- :M'i: or more parts. Such modeis rvill neeC :c :? =:.:€-:-:: :, .':r* j :el::,: :' i-, - -,-- -t!j'l r :., 3-': ME l: -r:i modelling compentenee is necessarr :: ::-:::-t: recommend them for inexoer:erced !r "ir, ,:--: --:.:r:-.

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Drillwear

Holbon Toddlebrew

Samantha Phox

Baygar

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Ancient Word

Designed by Bob Naismith

Ivory Temple

Inner Siqht

Female

Black Brothe

Albonite F

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Forestal

Red Robe

Word

Sacred Bull

c04

Quickblade

Desiqned by Ai an & Michael Perrv

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CHAOS RATMEN (SKAVEN) c47

NI(]HT RUNNER

PACKLORD

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Desiqned hy Jes Goodwin

WAR THRALL

BACKSTARBER

IRON

SPIKE SLINGER

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DWARFS c06

Designed by Alan & Michael perry

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Bounty

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Amphis

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new euf eir ehaf iCtCi,Fi.r( :'i;nitiii'b; versions of the same character, representing the adventurer as a starter charaeter,

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The citadet range of fine-cast metar miniatures is avairabre from rhe length and breadth of rhe country. :?:t^.*:lt?.-r you do not have a retailer near you, then you may How"v"., ii be pleased'to know that we can offer a fast and'effectivl V"it O.a., service direct from our factory. Why not write in for deta-ils.

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SUBSCRIBE TO THE CITADEL COMPENDruM AND JOURNAL! is your chance to ensure thst you receive lhe next four CiLadFl aaqezines as soon as they ere avsilable! JusL 3end us f6 now. md-we,ll send you Lhe ne\L four fiaqezines, eech worth at EasL tt.,\U, 6s they eDpe€r and absolutely posL free. The ne\t js Lonpendium due out sometine around Chris!m6s, snd Lhe -O"""ri J"oumal is published irregularly approximsr"fi"rirt".fi. Lne unbeliev6btpy chsoLic naturp of the Citadel srt iJept. jg impo3sible to say for certain exacily when magazines wilit te o,blished, or indeed wheLher any given magazine *iff -iL -" uompendium or Journsl! BoLh the Compendiu- and the Journsl are cremmed with illustrations froh our extensive ranqes of metai ag weil.as a-rrictcs on paintiaq, .oJ"irin!,'W"*".i"1 1li"!r1"1 end runeaous soecial foatur... TakF advertage oi tnis unique Here_

SUBCRIPTION DEAL FREE

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RR8

OGRES

t4.50

lcommand+Etroopers

€5.50

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HIGH ELF INFANTRY T4.50

RR14

ORC

RR15

THE NEXT FOUR CITADEL MAGAZINES AS THEY APPEAR ( APPRoX.GUARTERLY ). sg.oo PosT

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DARK ELVES

RR7

RR15

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HOBGOBLINS

c4.50

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i4.50

lcommand+Stroopers

AVENGING KNIGHTS C4.50

RRIS

GIANT BLACK ORCS S4.50

lcommand+Btroopers lcommand+Stroopers

DICE

GOBLIN WARLORD'S €,5.50

V CI'fz\I)EL

A fuli.range of Polyhedral Dice suitable for

use with all popular Role Playing Games and Wargames, including WARHAMMER.

t 2 3

4 6 7

I 9

IO

1I 12 TJ 14

t5 15

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Mithril Silver

Shining Gold Rotting Flesh Goblin Green Elf Grey Worm Purple Hobgobl'in Orange

Orc Brown Spearstaff Brown Swamp Brown Chainmail

.50 .50 .60 .50 .50 .50 .50 .50 .60 .50 .50

.50 .50 ,60 .60 .50 .60 .50

DICE FOUR SIDED SIX SIDED EIGHT SIDED TEN SIDED TWELVE SIDED

TWENTY SIDID strT OF SiX

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f. r.?5

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RR17

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GOBLIN

GUARD-1commandmodel '4.50

We are also able to take orders over the phone by Access or Visa.

Tel MAIL ORDER

GROMS

SET ONE (paints 1_9 ) SET Two (Painrs 10-lB

[.4.95 )

{.4.95

I{iniatures

C[-TADEI,

A rew concept in role-play modetsl Each Pl.t.r tu.cter Pack comprises three versions oa the same characte.! represenlinq the sdvent!.er .s a starter charactEr, and, rlnally! as s fully developed hiqhlevel ch6racte., as sn expe.ienced.dvdtu.er

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t1.95 for t1.95 for

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for l each each each t1.95 each tl.25 rider and

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CJ2

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c33

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c34

c35 c36 c37

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TOM MEIERIS ELVES TREASURE CHEST LONE WOLF

c42

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l

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ADD51 KOBOLDS (4) ADD52 GOBLTNS (4) ADD54 HOBGOBLINS (]) ADD55 cNoLLS (l) ADD56 BUGBEARS (2) ADD57 OGRE ADD59 TROLL ADD60 NORKER5

(l)

Et.g5 81.95 f,1.95

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tr.95 tt.95

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BLINK DOGS (4)

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€1.50 95p fot 2 01.29 each

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STRIDER-ARAGORNEl.95 THE RANGER FRODO THE HOBBIT f,}.95 LEGOLAS ELF HERO €,1.95 GIMLI DWARF HERO f,1.95

BOROMIR ELROND

fI.95

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T1.95

NOBLE

T1.95

ME24 GONDOR CITADEL €1.95 GUARD ME25 RANGERS OF €,1.95 ITHILIEN ME]l SILVAN ELVES OF €,].95 MIRKWOOD ME32 NOLDOR THE DEEP €,1.95 ELVES ME]4 SHIRE HOBBITS 8I.95 ME35 BEORN BEARMAN iI.95 ME41 GOBLIN WARG 81.95 RIDER ME42 ORCS OF THE WHITE f1.95 ME43

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c27

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MAGIC USER tI.95 Player Character Pack

t1.95

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GUARDS

ME45 DUNLENDINGS (2) €,1.95 ME51 ORCS OF THE RED €,1.95 EYE ME52 OLOG-HAI TROLL 8I.95 ME53 SOUTHRON EVIL 8I.95 HARADRIM ME54 EASTERLING EVIL TI,95 RAIDER ME55 MOUTH OF SAURON T1.95 EVIL WARRIOR MAGE

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€,1.95

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€1.95

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TREEBEARDMIGHTYsl.95

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CHAOS BROO

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$mm

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JUDGE DRtrDD tI.95 pack JUDGE ANDERSON 11.95 pack

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S1,95

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€1.95

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65p

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l' i: t'

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10p 5p

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STARTER SET ADVENTURERS

STARTtrR SET

84.95

MONSTERS

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GHI GH2

GOLDEN

t4.95

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€5.50 f,5.50

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86.95

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4

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T5.50

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CHAOS FEARLESS DWARF FEARLESS DWARF FEARLESS DWARF

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OF

€.4.95

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.c2

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Flirary Rdt#l,yiE c,lG . otd lfu

rh $#arks

D$CEONS &

with random heads *

OR

ACON9,

LICHX 2

j.nn.tolkfen's

srhe

@

ew

M E 11

MEll

GANDALF

MEl2 STRIDER:ARAGORN THE RANGER

"M

FRODO:HOBBIT HERO

@

ME 14 LEGOLAS:ELF

HERO @

x

X jt

ME 15 GIMLI:DWARF HERO

@

&

*,

'i#' :ag

ME 21 BOROMIR:MAN GONDOR

'/itL lt:

,;

,i4

i '.tl#

$@ ?"

\%

s

ME 22 ELROND: HALF ELF L

2] ROHIRRIM

Ot@

r D

ME 24 GONDOR crrADEL GUARD

ME 25 RANGERS OF ITHILIEN

@

ur,

R

'j lA

rt*

t

g,w'k*

f' ME

]1 SILVAN

ELVES OF MIRKWOOD

I\AE

J2 NOLDOR THE DEEP ELVES

?z;jt

]]

ffix*

"pippin'x

DWARVES

Bilb;

ME- 34 HOBBITS OF

ffi

@

q*'W 'AE 35 BEORN: AS MAN & BEAR

*r"

,

ME 41 GOBLIN WARG RIDER

EI

@

@t'

ME 42 ORCS OF THE WHITE HAND

:\

THE SHIRE

ME

4] HALF

Copyright 1985 Tolkien Enlerp.ises. THE HOBBITr"and LORD oF THE Rttlcs'8na all character names and places therein are trademark properties of Tolkien EnterprisesJ a division of Elan Merchandisinq Inc Berkeley California. No unauthorised use permitted. nfltiitl:aa,a,,a:.,rr'1,,,,i,:ii'r':..,r.:.'."

49

ORCS OF SARUMAN

i.n.n.tolkfen's 11J

i$ru*ffn

-

ME 44 URUK-HAI

ffie ME 45 DUNLENDINGS:HILL MEN

ME 52 OLOG.HAI TROLL

WW ME 54 EASTERLINGS

ME 51 ORCS OF THE RED EYE

ME 53 SOUTHRON :EVIL HARADRIM

@

ME 55 MOUTH OF SAURON: EVIL WARRIOR MAGE

ME 62 SARUMAN rHE '+L'r

'

4

ME 51 SAUR. ON: THE DARK LORD

wHrr.

@

ME 63 LORD oF rHE NAZGUL

@

@

.a'

ME 64 BLACK RIDER:RINGWRAITH

..,,:tr--

..rrifiF

ME 71 CORSAIRS OF UMBAR !,L

.M

w"." ffi

W "ew'

rd&,4i,.

,M

&ffiry* 4ffiffi{! wx{'. Ifl,U I

,WWb

';wffi

ffi* W

I\4E 73 BARRoW-WIGHTS

rh:L

72 DEAD MEN OF DUNHARROW

@ R '.

.s*l:::

B''*

F

fx* ,^t

tk ME 74 SNAGGA:GOBLINS

@

ME 75 KNTcHT oF DoL AMRoTH

Uopyright 1985 Tqlkien Enrerprises. I HE HOBBIT'"and LORD OF THE nltCS'5na all characLer names and places therein are trademark properties of Tolkien Enterprises, a divisjon of Elan fr'jerchandisino Inc Berkelev Californla. No unauthorised use permitted.

tr\ )F

\)J'va!4,4

*

'iif:t..

lR F.

tolkien's

'i$hd.r-ftnggt

Gandalf ME 82 'THE

i\4E

B] TOM BOMBADIL & FATTY

HoBBIT'tt pERSONALI'ilES

','o*o'* @ ME 85 TREEBEARD:MIGHTY ENT

L opvriqht le85 T.tt r€n Enrerprjses. TFIL HOtsBITr"and LORD OF TfE AtnCS'xna all rh.racter nFmes:nd pt€ces therein are trademark properties of Tolkien Lnterprises, a division of Elan M-.rchandisinq Inc Berkelev Californi,i. N. r. . rt6ori .d 1.6 t,6t I irt6d.

Citadelts new Lord of the Rings miniatures are especially designed to complement games based on the works of J.R.R. Tolkien. They are ideal for use with roleplaying games, sueh as I.C.Ers Middle Earth Role Playinq Gameror mass battle games such as WARHAMMER.

pACK

DUN@tts@JN,s-

gDRA@@NS' Miniatures I I

THIEF

MAGIC-

ELF

DUNGEON MONSTERS w:wL q"',:3

w

BDD2

,r,*"r,u

G,ANI

Supplted wilh cleor plostic stond

GIANI IOAD

#&

SKEI.EION

rtRE aErltrsr

ORC

RED DRAGON BDDlO

USER

rl

I F

,

:,

; ! ,.

i

L

t

I I

i t ! g

t I I !

! I !

;-'

(

ffi

Champion

ffi Musician

NOTLOB'S ORC ARTILLERY RR14

Desiqned by Alan & Michael Perry

W ffi

$&

rrrr

DISCIPLES OF THE RED RR16

Musician

REDEMPTION,-Desiqned by Jes coodwjn

Champion

DESPOILING HOBGOBLINS OF THE DARKLANDSRR15

Standard

Champion

Desiqned by Jes Goodwin

IN Tr-rE U.S.A. FROM THE FASA CORPORATION

STO] KLINGON

D-7

i

,

/Gi'wt w S

T15 ROMULAN WINGED

DEFENDE9

(cRUtsER)

(BATTLE CRUISER)

STO] U.S.S. ENTERPRISE (NEW STYLE CRUISER)

Star Irek is a trademark of Paramount Pictures Corporation and is used under exclusive license copyright 1984 Paramount Pictures Corporetion all riqhts resefved

W w WW -W

Star Trek Miniatures are designed for use with Star Trek- The Role playing Game and Star Trek Ill Combat eame and supplements FASA inc 1985.

AVAILAALF IN THE U.S.A. FROM THF FASA CORPORATION

MINIANNES

%._

!ffiM *iw

ffi% Cyberman

ffi

4th

Timelord

Dr Who Miniatures are produced under license from the FASA corporation and are desiqned for use with the D. Who Role Playing Game FASA Corporation l9B5

Dr

Doctor

wh&BC tge5 &t"kpT""""y

@

Dalek Nation I9B5

2000 ADs

NDTfiDREDD

ffi

2 Judge

Anderson-

l-

JD]

,l

cl !ve

the

Club

Spug Slatt

rDt

Ramperpo

A TITA\/CITADEL CO-PRODUCTION

Judqe Dredl

PERPS

Spit-gun Suzi

Blocker

Chester

Zermac

Blaster Bellamy

t:

Judge Dredd, The Chronicles of , and Judge Dredd Monthly published by Titan Books Ltd. 2000AD and Judqe Dredd are.@lPC Maqezines Ltd 1982

Judqe Dredd Miniatures are designed for use with Judqe Dredd The Role playinq Came, produced by Games Workshop Ltd under license from tpC Magazines Ltd.

ii

I

r I

e

F

i

i

Designed by Tom Meier

-DRAGONS-mNOT FOR SAI F IN I J.S.A.

DG 2 Red Draqon

@

DG 7 Green Dragon

X oc 6 Zombie Dragon

jW{$ DG

DG

I

oriental Drago"

I

@

DG 5 Fire Dragon DG 4 Black Dragon

Blue Dragon

rjAria:F

.,.:,:'':t;,/ I

:aa:i:il

TAl MIGHTY A-ANGOR

@

THE GIGANTIC BAL ROG SLAYER OF GODS

WW@ CIiEW OF THE JUGGERNAUT TA2 DWARF JUGGERNAUT t:;r..:i:::i:

Ft

K TA] CRC WAR

WYVERN

TA4 ORC WAR MACHINE

TA5 WAR EAGLE

TA5 EMPEROR DRAGON

TA7 CHAOS BATTERING RAM SAATOR GIANT DEMON OF EVIL

No creature b.oods with trlack evil as does Saator,.and no other creatures does he dispise more than the pathetic race of hum€nitv" His rralice is botLomless, his hatred a deathly palor that qlows black upon his rank and leprous hide. He couid destroy humanitv if he wished. Bul Saator is far too sublle, and far'too cruel, Lo merely slay mankind. That would be too easy! too unsatisfyinql qadlor t ô^c ' 'al l-Fr. orF tFfroI! ho. .F L^€n oor--, -orror" no, profcund Lhan the maw of oblivion, agony a thousand times more inLense than the death raLlle. No - instead he deliqhts in the corruDlion of man, pleasures in the dance of deathi in the wa. and hat.rd and cruelty that he seeds in humanity. These are emotions he knows well; emotions that could b-^ read in his qleaminq yellow eyes were there a creatu.e that dare look. But few livin. creatures couid survive the stare of hatred in that face. or breati l 6 a i3l6d €ir rr .orr tption thar ;s. rps fror tLat roul I uz7lo. A few that tried would be lucky enough to die, More likely they would themselves become twisted with bitterness, turned upon lheir own race and driven insane wiLh lust for death and.arnane_ M

WS

RS

6

10

'10

s

T

7

7

15

t0

10

Ld

Int C]

10

LO

10

l0

Special Rules. Saalor can fly as a Mopea. As a Greater Demon he causes fear and terror in all living creatures, Hs is immune to psycholoqical effects, unless caused by gods. He is immune to normal weapons. He attacks in combat with t0 stomps. Saator's breath is so intensely evil that it is poisonous to anv ordinary living creature. This may be brealhed once per torn aqainst any unil or individual within 6", and will effect up to D6 troops. Targets must make a savinq throw of a 4, 5 or 5 cn a D/ or

TAB SA-ATOR-GIGANTIC DEMON LORD

PINED DRAGON NB1

t".,n".n

bv Nick Ribby

KEGOX, THE KEVIN PEAT DRAGON NB2

F

DFAinnFd Desiqned hw by

\ri^t Nick RihHBibby

50olo of Citadel Miniatures profits from the sale of this model will be donated to theTTELECTRIC BED APPEAL" for the Cameron Ward of the Orpington General Hospital.

these models require advanced modelling techniques and are e It to assemble than our usual multi-part models. .

.

tt'

{

MIGHTY UGEZOD'S DEATH COMMANDOS BC4

Designed by Nick Lund

''

Giant Black Orc

Hobgoblin Berzerker

'\,

Goblin Hero

Hobgoblin Warrior

Belly'

Miqhly Ugezod (Giant

Orc)

Mutant Goblin

MICHAEL MOORCOCK'S 'ETERNAL CHAMPION' BCs

i)esiqned by Jes Goodwin

This boxed set contains eiqht models l)Elric Kinslayerx 2) Moonglum * J) Corum * 4) Erekose 5) Ulric 5) Jerry Cornelius 7) Elric White WoIf B) Hawkmoon x Models illustrated

Elric Kinslayer

Moonglum We are proud to present the first official 25mm scale models of Michael Moorcock?s famous hero in some of his many guises.

All characters copyright Michael

Moorcock@ 1985

: t

t

IILONE

WOLF: GIAK LWI

ATTACK_

Desrqned bv

I

t

lnI

t

Aian & Michael Perry

t I

t

t I

MANUFACTL]RED UNDER LICENCE FROM CARY

CIALK AND JOE DEVER TO ACCOMPANY HUTCHINSON'5 PAPERBACK SER]ES.

Giak Standard

Manic Giak

Gorgaz

Giak Bow

-=,THE

Giak Angry

Sir Pelethor

Giak Attacking

Giak Spear

FELLOWSHIP OF THE RING BMEl

t)esiqncd r'rv Aly f/orrison, Bob N:isrnirh t The P-.rr! Tf'n5

/

W

FrodoY

W

MerrPC

X Gandalf

Biil the Pony

Citadelrs new Lord of the Rinds miniatures are especiaily designed to compleinent games based on the works of J.R.R. Tolkien, lhev are ideal for use with roleplaying garres, such as I.C.E's Mid.'le Larrh polc pta\ Lnq Game,or mass battle qames such as

WARHAMMIR.

Aragorn Aragorn

Legolas Legolas

Boromir

Copvright 1985 Tolkien FnLerprises. THE IOBBITIMan,J LORD r)F THE etf.:CSrHna all characler names and pl€ces therein arL: Lrademark properti-.s of Tolkien [nterprises, a division of Elan Merchandjsina Inc Berketev Ca]ifornia. Na unauthorised use permiLted.

t

jlt ,)

CHIMERA CM1

-:n

-CHAOS

Designed by Nick Bibby

w

tffi

W "*,.;"..+... .... ";4^;:

'9''

w#

:.

'"1'1

,& ". Supplied with a random selection of

I

heads and a tail.

ARGANTUAN FIRE GIANT LORD CMz


The Gargantuan Fire Giant Lord is surely amonqst the deadliest of all foes, tough as a draqon and resilient as a demon - yet cunning as

any human. His skin is firey and red, his eyes inflamed wilh piercing yellow lights, and his voice cracklinq and spitting like a cauldron. His armour is of bronze, and all of his ornaments of copper. His weapon is the triple spiked death-rake, a mighty and fearsome device in his capable hands. M

WS

BS

l0

t0

s 1

T 7

I5

tn

10

Ld

lnt

CI

t0

l0

10

10

Special Rules. The Fire Lord causes fe& and terror in all livin.l creatures. He is immune to psychological effects, unless caused by qreater demons or gods. In addition he can breathe fiie once per tu.n against any unit or individual within 6rr, and will effect up to D6 troops. Targets must make a savinq throw of a 4, 5 ot 6 on a D6 or are instantly slain.

DRAGON TOAD


!d

ffi

MTNIATURES

BLACK OR Nl1

Great Axe

5

a

Pole Axe

Chief tain

Gu ard rir$

$\

{s

^'dS:

$* :l' .l'

Glaive Killer

Mace

Bowman

--HOBGOB

Slicer

Hero

Soul Stealer

Champion

Dwarf Maimer

Mangler

Slaver

ffi Slasher

Spearman

Skin Eater

Nick Lund's MINIATUNES OBOLD N13

Knee Ripper

Club

Crusher

Shield Wielder

Maniac

Stomach Slitter

Chest Poker

ANT OGR N14

Man Masher

Biqchest Chief

Spike Kicker

Dwarf Defiler

Ear Chewer

Bone Crusher

Groin Ripper

Hobbit Slicer

Man Sticker

Arm Taker

Nick Lund's MTNIATURES ORC WOLF RIDERS

Uglv

%w K%.*

Strong gact<

Mangle

Mace

I

Sureshot

Arm

Spear Stabber

Dwarf Annilator

Blackcoat

Wolffriend

Elf Catcher

Red Eye

Death Mane

Orc

K

Y

CarrierY

CAVE GOBLINS f

/

e@:ix.

ffi|w" zoffiW# -w*pi'ffi.

W *!

,f .{--trr

"w\\\&r*

;ifu,{ r..ff

W* @@

"Spiker

Ed

t Smasher Dwarf Fiend Elf Hater

rW,

dW *. #ifr..&t :&WEI;,iE

W*" ffi

.#'ww'& {ru Black Mane

Foot Chopper

Spiker

Strong Bow

The insane ravings of a million tortured souls can but compare palely to the gibbering enthusiasm with which you responded to our previous competitions. This tirne we expect -.even greater thinqs! Our fortunate Halfling friend here has captured a mighty Chaos Battle Banner - all you have to do is rack your mutated brains and come up with a suitable design. The infamous Citadel staff artists will

efforts. They have been freshly lobotomised so that they can survive the excitement of opening all of your entries. Due to this sensible precaution we will not be able to read letters or pass on mail orders - so please send your entries separately from any other stuff (mail orders, enquiries, death-threats, etc). Please remember, we are unable to return entries (lhe post office refuse to touch anything once our staff have had their paws on it). judge your

Send your entries (and no

NAME ADDRESS AGE

treacle under any circumstances) to:

BNN€FLIL BNI1N€R5

RC!il.',t,T*NERS

^-a:_s ao',! lhe screaminq anii clamo!rinq has raaled =a. -a'a'.? -rcrL\ fortress that is Lhe Citadcl Art Department. a:.,.. -_? s3-:: ..!ld ailv qo on for so lonq (w-. ran cut of tea) and so ..,:'. ? :e.ided to qive in Lo Lhe ina.ticulaLe demands of an r"s3:rarle public. So here they are - the first in what v/e intend lo tre a !.cL!ing selection of banners, especially desiqned by Lhe lnf3mous Garv Chalk and John Blanche flr Vy'arhammer players, modellers and converters. Cut out your chosen bann-.r usinq scissoas or a sharp knife, glue youi banner around a s!itable caosspole and fix onto the slandard bearer. To give lhe banner a more realistic v/ind-blown effect, you can bend folds into Lhe paper b), rollinq arDUnd a brush handle or pencil. To increase the strengLh and durabilitv of your banner you can qlue it to a tin-foi1 backing, this v/il1 make it easie. to make qood folds too.

__-'-(

- CUT OUT FLAGS

k "At *\<=;t

Filry t __l

FOR

@l

THE BANNERS

Frorn left to riqht

+

:=*=t I

Top

row

Alklz-Altza Dwarf l-ord of

Ruin The Mad Doq Goblins of Croqq Boweltearer The 5to!t-hearts of Nuln - warrior men of cou Eathrin Captain of the Sea Gates of Lothern

Middle

1ow

The great Chaos battle-banner of RedempLion Muggo - Bsastman Raiders of the Empire Hrothyogqrs Horrible (l!Fe Pay-swords

Bottom

row

Orc banner of the Great Cyciops God The Chaos legions of Wild Hrut Knights of the Sacred Page SkeleLon Warriors of Lhe Abyss

€: f

aaura:E

ptrtn

. 7He 7TllFreeNT'H yeAR, oF rHE Tn ASIEN oT KING z.oLTAN oF JPR,AAG ,HC VlLE FOR,C€S OF

CHAOS SWEPT AOUTH THPoUaH KISLEV ITSELF, ANP TT(€AE.ON 7HE OPEEN BANKg OF THE LYNSK.ZOLT^NS AR./AY ENCACCD 7HElR NOS,$CA TO 7HE BOPDERS OF

FOUL

\

/. '-.

FI€NDS OF CHAOS:' YOUB. BREED WILL

NEVER.

TAINT THIS

LAND WHILE

o \ r.., )i

ONE

MAN OF PRAA6 . STILL LIVES:

P/ ,

HELL-SPAWNEO FOE.,.

/,

-r-v\:

ryL\

S,d \-.\/\' o ''/:,: ./ t../ ^,

t ' /-4'/-"'

73

,l 1,,

N' IN PALACE

PR.AAC,ZOLTAN'S

'

6RAND WIZAR.D, WALPURErc_

FA;VVIFttue

f*"FBED-R.ID Y*'"*.\\ AND ÂE WITLESS

TO SENDTHEÂ

HEF.E! lILL SHOW

\

?*x i3_f&l) waA -9."..2<

wtND I

SLOW:RAIN

THEM THERETS LIFE IN THIS

ottPt+?u

/

^l

eoNauue TH€M! ./

aft

OV€R, THE FRAY,THC

sKtes oPeNeP

uT ove

rHERe

wAs wHo

5ffi38",i7[8 frd',m'Zi* lIF WCAI

-

THE A/VIULET OF 8R,AS8NAONCD KHOR,N€ ?

Hts utMe wns SLEBAN FOULHEART-

N

lll

iliil

\rax )X.M' f{nL'l

HIS BLADE WAS A WHIRLWND THAT- CL€AVED OF DEATH EEFORE H//IA-

A SWATHE

AND EVEN THC BATTLEHAADENED ROYAL 6UARD

ruR.NED TO FL€E_

' ecooo

FOE 7H€

4OOD6OO.t r

,i>

coMe

BACK, YOU

.

/!ÊN:

TAE

KfN6!

PR.OTECT THE

l

-\ ['.]

,W,Ud'K" -78492.'"

'you FteHT LIKE A POXY

ttl'

l/l

'

_-{

&\r /

-\.

Y,f (,ook.*(r , /"

N\V -\)--

He ls A DooMeo ONC_ A FOLLOWER.OF ,tlALAL, 'cciD;'THe ReNe6A9e '--'---- -^4LL

li;;f 'lrcM KALCBIS MUT-ANT STEED ATTACK€D-

,M

----\\\

'N['],fT,;x

(N)

\x

rri,s'f,\l

&;,f

1/;At

vffi

\\g

w

l\ \ \\

\

N

@

% --'4fi1 5:-

-.t-:-4

FORer$o9T'/ntDgT

SLAUOHTER, WAS

KALEB

DAARK!

a

sT-oP \

AR6UIN6:

GO] FETCH HIAA! I /\AUST Seg Ht/\A

tu L-4, -<-4

Z C-CERIAINLY! \ 8R... AS YOU KNOW. PRAA6 HAS WON A VIC-I-ORY_ LARGELY THANKS T-O YOU I \ oF couRse I -/ .

BUT CHAOS \ rs sTRoNc.sooN

THERE WILL@AAE THE FINAL BATTLE _AND THEN PRAA6

r WILL FALL.

,/

vt I

ZpABKesr \ HouR. \ 'n'"?NRê'" THe 6ODD€88

A&IANKA SHALL R.tse ERO/\A THE DEAD. AND gHe SHALL s/Vne THe HOilDeS oF cHAoS AND DRIVE THEM FR.OM

\*!""J,oND FoRl ZOFYOURBOOK \ ANCIENTSJ

NAU6HT- BU.IFAIRYT-ALES J IFTHIS IS WHAT YOU HAVE CROUGHT ME

\

HeRe FOR.-

/

BO

7He aoooe8,9

AR.IANI
/

sHe wAs \ ,/FOUND BV /\AY

,a/'3

,(/2

6R.ANDFATHER..

A/ALPURGIS THE WALPURCIS DIG6ER.. A PRJCELESS 6IFT TO US FR.O/\A THE ANCIENTS.BUT ALAS, USeLeSS .

\

T- \-\ fu.-;,g,

w4;

To'us .. . I

'rr/'e \ /...FoR CRYSTALT€Y' \ WHICH WILL

RELEASE HER.HAVE LONG SINCE PASSED INTO THE KEEPING

. oF evtL HANDS-,

/'fi,,\.

L\\

lklli\€

{

'

UTHER.E SHALL COÂE \ A_CHAf\AP|oN-A AAAN OF CHAOS,YET NOT OF gHAOS. DAR.K HIS DeEDS, CUT DAF.KER HIS gOOI\Ai AND HE SHALL SEEK OUT THE CRV6'I-AL KEYS AND WREST THEAA FRO,\N ./ THE CLUTCH OF A

eVlL..."

\

'zzz.un(

fR\'

*

4 t/t,,,^\:;

lr 1/

/

THERE_YOU

( sge: He HAs seNT \ YOU TO US:

I TTilNk t KALeB DAARK- YOUR OWN 6OD HAS cHoSeN voul

/rr

MSE

:

The 3rd Citadel Compendium 1988

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