Summer Crochet

S u m m e r C roc h et

6 free designs for women by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé 1

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Summer Crochet 6 free designs for women by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé

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Camino by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé 5

Mykonos by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé 6

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Kefalonia by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé 8

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Sicily by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé

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Sardinia by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé

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Gozo by Marie Wallin using Cotton Glacé 15

Cotton Glacé 100% cotton 10 x 50g balls per pack approx 115m (126yds) per ball This cotton is a wonderful, dry handle cotton yarn. Spun with a high twist, this beautiful yarn is perfect for summer stitch texture and crochet.

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Bleached 726

Ecru 725

Oyster 730

Ochre 833

Mineral 856

Persimmon 832

Toffee 843

Earth 863

Black 727

Greengage 864

Dijon 739

Shoot 814

Ivy 812

Pine 869

Dark Forest 859

Green Slate 844

Winsor 849

Aqua 858

Dawn Grey 831

Lavender 860

Ultramarine 851

Blackcurrant 862

Nightshade 746

Twilight 829

Midnight 868

Sky 749

Cobalt 850

Shell 845

Bubbles 724

Lipstick 865

Rose 861

Precious 867

Heather 828

Garnet 841

Blood Orange 445

Poppy 741

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HOW TO

Crochet ...the basics

Photography by John Heseltine Instructions by Emma Seddon

T

he next few pages show the simple instructions on how to complete the basic crochet stitches and garment shaping to help you to complete the designs featured in this brochure. We hope that if you have not attempted crochet before, these simple instructions will encourage you to pick up a crochet hook. Once mastered you will discover that crochet is one of the more enjoyable crafts and the possibilities of creating beautiful patterns are endless.

SLIP STITCH (SS) A crochet slip stitch is the shortest of the basic crochet stitches. As slip stitch is rarely used on its own to make a fabric, it is only necessary to learn how to work it along a foundation chain for the time being. Learning it is good practise for working into the foundation chain. 1. Make a foundation chain of the desired length.You will be working the first stitch into the SECOND chain from the hook (see arrow). 2. Holding the foundation chain between the thumb and forefinger of the yarn hand, insert the hook through the chain under one top loop of the second chain from the hook. Catch the ball end of the yarn with the hook so that it wraps the yarn anticlockwise around it. 3. Draw the yarn around the hook through the chain and then through the loop on the hook.You have just made your first slip stitch. Work one slip stitch into each remaining chain of the foundation chain in the same way.

Making your foundation chain

Working into the second chain from hook

Completing the first slip stitch

DOUBLE CROCHET (dc) (sc - US) 1. Make a foundation chain of the desired length- about 20 chains is sufficient. 6. Draw the yarn through both loops on the hook to complete the stitch.Work You will be working the first stitch into the SECOND chain from the hook as one double crochet into each chain that remains in the same way. you did for making a slip stitch. 2. Holding the foundation chain as shown, insert the hook onto the second chain from hook. 3. Catch the yarn with the hook and wrap it around the hook (yrh) in the usual way. 4. Draw the yarn through the chain, so that there are now two loops on the hook. 5. Wrap the yarn around the hook again. 2.Working into second chain from hook

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3.Wrapping the yarn around the hook

4. Drwaing a loop through the chain

5.Wrapping the yarn around the hook again

6. Drawing a loop through both loops on the hook

TREBLE (tr) (dc - US) 1. Make a foundation chain of the desired length. For treble crochet, you will be working the first stitch into the FOURTH chain from the hook. 2. Wrap the yarn once around the hook in the usual way. 3. Insert the hook into the fourth chain from the hook 4. Wrap the yarn around the hook again. 5. Draw the yarn through the chain. There are now three loops on the hook. 6. Wrap the yarn around the hook once more.

3.Working into the fourth chain from the hook

2.Wrapping the yarn once around the hook


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7. Pull the hook through the first two loops on the hook. There are now two loops on the hook. 8. Wrap the yarn around the hook once more. 9. Draw a loop through the remaining two loops on the hook to complete the first treble crochet. One loop remains on the hook. Work one treble into each of the remaining chains in the same way.

5. Drawing a loop through the chain


7. Drawing a loop through the first two loops

8.Wrapping the yarn around the hook once more

9. Drawing a loop through the last two loops

The images and text for this How To feature have been taken from the Rowan Crochet Workshop book. Rowan Crochet Workshop is a highly illustrated practical guide to learning crochet from complete beginner to intermediate level. The book provides a complete and easy to follow course on everything you need to know to crochet perfectly. Order Code: 159 ISBN: 978-1-906007-34-8

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DOUBLE TREBLE CROCHET (dtr) (tr - US) 1. Make a fiundation chain of the required length.You will be working the first stitch into the fifth chain from the hook (see arrow). 2. Wrap the yarn twice around the hook, then insert the hook into the fifth chain from the hook and wrap the yarn around the hook again. 3. Draw a loop through the chain. There are four loops on the hook. *Wrap the yarn around the hook… 4. …and draw a loop through the first two loops on the hook. *Repeat from * to * until there is only one loop on left on the hook. This completes the first stitch. Work one stitch into each remaining chain in the same way.

3.Wrapping the yarn round the hook again....

2.Working into fifth chain from hook

4. ....and drawing a loop through two loops at a time until one loop remains on the hook.

WORKING GARMENT DECREASES Garment decreases can be worked at the beginning and/or end of a row, a stitch or two in from each edge, or in the middle of a row. The most commonly used method for decreasing one or two stitches in a row is working two or three stitches together as one stitch. Try out these decreases in double, half treble and treble crochet so you will be familiar with them when you first come across them in your crochet pattern. Similar decreases can be worked for most simple stitch patterns and your instructions will guide you through these when they are needed. Single dc decrease (dc2tog) Working two double crochet stitches together is a neater way to decrease one stitch than simply missing a stitch. To work dc2tog, insert the hook in the next stitch, yrh and draw a loop through; then draw a loop through the next stitch in the same way. There are now 3 loops on the hook.Yrh and draw through all 3 loops on the hook to complete the single decrease.

Double dc decrease (dc3tog) To decrease two stitches at once in a double crochet, insert hook in the next stitch, yrh and draw a loop through; then draw a loop through each of the next 2 stitches in the same way.You now have 4 loops on the hook.Yrh and draw through all 4 loops on the hook to complete the double decrease. Single htr decrease (htr2tog) The principal for working htr2tog is the same as for dc2tog. To work htr2tog, yrh and insert the hook in the next stitch, yrh and draw a loop through; then do the same in the next stitch. You now have 5 loops on the hook. Yrh and draw a loop through all 5 loops on the hook to complete the single decrease.

Decreasing one stitch in half trebles (htr2tog)

Double htr decrease (htr3tog) To decrease two stitches at once in half treble crochet ,yrh and insert the hook in the next stitch, yrh and draw a loop through; then do the same in each of the next 2 stitches. You now have 7 loops on the hook. Yrh and draw through all 7 loops on the hook to complete the double decrease. Decreasing one stitch in double crochet (dc2tog)

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Single tr decrease (tr2tog) The principal for working two stitches together in treble crochet is the same as for double crochet and half treble crochet-the next two stitches are worked up to the last yrh and then drawn together with one final yrh. To work tr2tog, yrh and insert the hook in the next stitch yrh and draw a loop through, yrh and draw through the first 2 loops on the hook; then do the same in the next stitch. You now have 3 loops on the hook.Yrh and draw a loop through all 3 loops on the hook to complete the single decrease. Double tr decrease (tr2tog) To decrease two stitches at once in treble crochet you work three stitches together, just as for double crochet and half treble crochet. To work tr3tog,yrh and insert the hook in the next stitch, yrh and draw a loop through, yrh and draw through the first 2 loops on the hook; then do the same in each of the next 2 stitches.You now have 4 loops on the hook.Yrh and draw a loop through all 4 loops on the hook to complete the double decrease.

Decreasing trebles at the beginning and end of a row When working decreases in treble crochet at the beginning of a row, remember that the three turning chains at the beginning of the row will count as your first treble crochet stitch. Miss the stitch at the base of your turning chain, then work the decrease over the next two or three stitches as normal. To decrease at the end of a row of treble crochet, you will need to work your decrease, and then work a treble crochet into the top of the turning chain ,so you need to count backwards from the edge of the fabric to work out where to start your decrease stitch. It is especially important to count the number of stitches you have left after a treble crochet decrease, to make sure you decreased by correct number of stitches. Remember that the basic rules of treble crochet stitches (and taller stitches) will still apply even when working decreases - always miss the first stitch at the beginning of the row, and always work the last stitch into the top of the turning row. If there is an exception to this rule your pattern will spell it out clearly.

Decreasing one stitch in treble crochet (tr2tog)

Decreasing two stitches in treble crochet (tr3tog)

A multi-stitch decrease at the end of row You may need to decrease several stitches at once when shaping a garment, to create a sharp decrease instead of a sloped or curved one. This type of multistitch decrease occurs, for example, at the beginning of armhole shaping and sleeve head shaping. Although the technique is the same for all stitches, on tall stitches it creates an abrupt right angle, while on shorter stitches, such as double crochet and half treble crochet, it can be integrated into a gentle curve. 1. To decrease several stitches at the end of a row, simply work to the point at which the required number of stitches to decrease are still left unworked on the row as shown, then turn the work.

Starting the multi-stitch decrease at the end of a row.

2. On the following row, work the turning chain, then complete the row in the pattern stitch as normal.

Working the next row after the multi-stitch decrease.

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A multi-stitch decrease at the beginning of row On some garments, the multi-stitch decrease needs to be worked in the same row on both side edges of the garment piece - to create symmetry. If this is the case, you will need to know how to work a multi-stitch decrease at the beginning of the row as well. Because a slip stitch is very short, it is useful for moving the hook along the row, without adding any height.This is exactly what you do to decrease a large number of stitches at the beginning of a row.Work one turning chain, then for a right-angled decrease, work in slip stitch over the number of stitches you want to decrease and into the position for the first stitch of the row; then work the rest of the row in the usual pattern stitch. For a gentler, curved decrease on half treble crochet, you can work a double crochet in the stitch before the first half treble of the new row.

Working a curved multi-stitch decrease.

WORKING GARMENT INCREASES It may be necessary to increase many stitches at the edge of a piece, for example to start sleeves that are worked as one piece with the body of the garment, which are called ‘integral sleeve’. To create this right-angled increase, you work extra chains - one for each stitch required. For symmetry, the chains needed for each sleeve on the back of the garment (or on the front of a pullover) need to be made on the same row, as explained here. A multi stitch increase at each end of a row 1. So that the multi-increases can be worked at both ends of the same row, prepare the chains for the increase at the end of the row on the row before the increase row. Begin this row (which will be the end of the increase row) by working the same number of chains as needed for the number of stitches to be increased, plus an extra chain for the turning chain. Work one slip stitch into the second chain for the hook, then one slip stitch into each of the remaining chains and continue across the row as usual as shown. Because the slip stitches are very short they provide the perfect neutral base for the increased stitches on the next row. 2. At the beginning of the increase row, again work the same number of chains as the number of new stitches you need. For the turning chain, work the number of chains required for the particular stitch you are using for the garment-one chain for the double crochet being worked here.Work across the added chains, then across the row to the slip stitches at the end. For the extra stitches needed at the end of the row, work in the pattern stitch across the slip stitches prepared at the beginning of the last row.

Increasing several stitches at a row end.

Increasing several stitches at the beginning of a row.

GENERAL CROCHET ABBREVIATIONS UK crochet terms and abbreviations have been used throughout. The list below gives the US equivalent where they vary. ABBREV ch ss sp(s) dc htr tr dtr

UK US chain chain slip stitch slip stitch space(s) spaces(s) double crochet single crochet half treble half double crochet treble double crochet double treble treble 2339

Camino by Marie Wallin SIZE S M L XL XXL To fit bust 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé 24 26 27 29 30 x 50gm (photographed in Twilight 829)

CROCHET HOOK 3.00mm (no 11) (US C2) crochet hook

TENSION 21 sts and 15 rows to 10 cm measured over patt using 3.00mm (US C2) hook.

Camino By Marie Wallin

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Click To Download The FREE Pattern PDF

Gozo by Marie Wallin SIZE S-M L-XL To fit bust 81-97 102-117 cm 32-38 40-46 in

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé 21 23 x 50gm (photographed in Toffee 843)

CROCHET HOOK 6.00mm (no 4) (US J10) crochet hook

TENSION 2 patt reps (18 sts and 16 rows) to 14 cm measured over main patt using 6.00mm (US J10) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together.

Gozo By Marie Wallin

Click To Purchase The FREE Pattern PDF

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Kefalonia by Marie Wallin SIZE S M L XL XXL To fit bust 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé A Garnet 841 4 5 5 6 6 x 50gm B Dijon 739 2 2 2 2 3 x 50gm C Toffee 843 2 2 2 2 2 x 50gm D Oyster 730 2 2 2 2 3 x 50gm E Baked Red 837 1 2 2 2 2 x 50gm F Twilight 829 1 2 2 2 2 x 50gm

CROCHET HOOK 3.00mm (no 11) (US C2) crochet hook

BUTTONS – 1 x RW5022 (18mm) from Bedecked.

Kefalonia By Marie Wallin

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TENSION 22 sts and 16 rows to 10 cm measured over main patt using 3.00mm (US C2) hook.

Mykonos by Marie Wallin SIZE S-M L-XL To fit bust 81-97 102-117 cm 32-38 40-46 in

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé 14 16 x 50gm (photographed in Oyster 730)

CROCHET HOOK 3.00mm (no 11) (US C2) crochet hook 6.00mm (no 4) (US J10) crochet hook

TENSION 2 patt reps (16 sts) to 14 cm and 3 patt reps (12 rows) to 15 cm measured over main patt using 6.00mm (US J10) hook and 2 strands of yarn held together.

Mykonos By Marie Wallin


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Sardinia by Marie Wallin SIZE S M L XL XXL To fit bust 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé 9 9 10 (photographed in Garnet 841)

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x 50gm

CROCHET HOOK 3.50mm (no 9) (US E4) crochet hook TENSION 211⁄2 sts and 10 rows to 10 cm measured over patt using 3.50mm (US E4) hook.

Sardinia By Marie Wallin

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Sicily by Marie Wallin SIZE S M L XL XXL To fit bust 81-86 91-97 102-107 112-117 122-127 cm 32-34 36-38 40-42 44-46 48-50 in

YARN Rowan Cotton Glacé 15 15 16 17 18 x 50gm (photographed in Ivy 812)

CROCHET HOOK 3.50mm (no 9) (US E4) crochet hook

TENSION 19 sts and 10 rows to 10 cm measured over patt using 3.50mm (US E4) hook.

Sicily By Marie Wallin


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Photographer Art Direction & Stylist Design Layout Hair & Make Up Models Location

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Sheila Rock Marie Wallin Paul Calvert Francis Precott (One Photographic) Pernilla Fransander (FM Agency) Malta

All right reserved. Reproduction in whole or any part of all material, including illustrations, in this publication is strictly forbidden. No part may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval system, or transmitted in any form or by any means electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape, mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise without prior permission of the copyright owners having been given in writing. The designs in this publication are copyrighted and must not be knitted for re-sale. Reproduction of this publication is protected by copyright and is sold on the condition that it is used for non commercial purposes. Yarn quantities are approximate as they are based on average requirements. Please note images are for guidance only. Colours may not display accurately on screen or in printed format. Contact your local stockist to view a fringed (not digital reproduction) yarn shade card. First published in Great Britain 2010 by Coats Crafts UK LTD Green Lane Mill, Holmfirth, West Yorkshire, England, HD9 2DX E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.knitrowan.com © Copyright Coats 2010

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Summer Crochet

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