Spain Volume II

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The coronn.com team [email protected]

Act on Copyright in Literary and Artistic Works The Ministry of Justice March 1, 1996 Stockholm (Act 1960:729, of December 30, 1960, as amended up to January 1, 1996). CHAPTER 1. Subject Matter and Scope Article 1. Anyone who has created a literary or artistic work shall have copyright in that work, regardless of whether it is 1. a fictional or descriptive representation in writing or speech, 2. a computer program, 3. a musical or dramatic work, 4. a cinematographic work, 5. a photographic work or another work of fine arts, 6. a work of architecture or applied art, 7. a work expressed in some other manner. Maps and other works of a descriptive nature executed as drawings, engravings, or in a three-dimensional form, shall be considered as literary works.

Spain offers many beautiful rock climbing spots, warm weather, sun and beaches. coronn.com coronn.com present the areas that are regarded to be some of the best. Together they offer more than 3600 rock climbing routes. To these spots you can find cheap flights during each time of the year and Spain, with friendly people, good food and a lot of culture events offers more than climbing, it is also a beautiful country for resting days.

El Chorro could Chorro could be called a "brutal but beautiful area" since it and the surrounding countryside are dry dry,, steep and almost inaccessible. To get to most of the crags you have to make your way through railway tunnels. Reaching many of the crags takes an hour or more on foot! Even so, El Chorro is one of the most famous rock climbing areas in Europe, the reason being simply that there are many nice routes and beautiful crags. Because of its location in the south of Spain rock climbing is possible throughout the winter even though it can sometimes be cold and there may even be snow. El Chorro with two outlying areas offers 650 routes. The island of Mallorca Mallorca,, provides excellent rock climbing in beautiful surroundings. The routes here offer all kinds of difficulty, from easy rock climbing to really hard rock climbing routes. If you are prepared to take your time, the small roads on the East of the island will lead you to beautiful rock climbing. Mallorca is a good choice for both families and hard rock climbers. 916 climbing routes Montserrat with its conglomerate mountain rock could Montserrat almost be from another planet. In the middle of a primarily flat countryside the Montserrat peaks seem to rise out of nowhere. The area looks like a giant' s playground where they have been making sandcastles of concrete. Many of the towers that provide superb rock climbing or mountaineering are visible from the Barcelona. The Topos Topos cover 350 climbing routes, most of them is traditional rock climbing. The mountains of Prades are formed by a range that rises Prades are sharply to the north out of the plains of the Camp of Tarragona. This excellent example of Mediterranean mountain range, dominated by high plateaus, broken by crags and gully's built on a complex geology that shows surprising materials as the red clays and white chalks of the crags. We present five rock climbing areas, Arboli, La Mussara, La Riba, Mont-ral and Siurana, all of them located near the nice the nice city of Tarragona. The Topos cover 1700 routes. ( Spain volume 1). 1 ).

Madrid

Barcelona Tarragona

SPAIN Palma de Mallorca

Malaga

m o c . n n o r o c ©

Download wallpapers and screensavers from the area, free at www.coronn.com

Visit www.coronn.com and see our gallery of rock climbing pictures.

At the web site you can get more information about each climbing area and see a lot of pictures from each spot.

How you can use the Topos

Symboles

The Topos is published as a PDF and in the computer (or PDA, Cell-phone) you can take benefit of the possibilities that the program offer offer.. On the coronn.com sketches there is a lot of links to use as shortcuts to navigate in the document. In the left lower corner there is always links to Roadmaps or Key-maps (in case there are one). At the sketch itself, there is sometimes links to a detailed part of the crag or to the continuing part of the crag. You can also use the Bookmarks, hidden in a vertical menu on the left side. From here you can navigate directly to chosen area or to the crag you want to see. You can also use the Search function (has a binoculars as a symbol), write the name of the area, the crag or even the route and the program will find it for you. In some cases the links in coronn.com Topos leads you on the Internet to web sites where you can get more information.

Sunny crag, often facing South

Crag with little sun, often facing North, East or West or located in the shadow

Overhanging crag, protected from rain

Rock climbing is a dangerous sport. This Topos Topos is not a substitute for experience and proper judgement. We accept no liability for injury or damage caused to, or by, by, climbers, third parties, or property arising from use of the information on this home page or on the TOPOS that are distributed from coronn.com.

1.2. Andonno, Paretino dell’ onda South 30 m. Multi Pitch 40 m.

See route no. 60 1.4.

56 24 47, 49 50 51 52 48 53

See 1.3. 24. Spigolo Manolo-Dog 6a+,7a+ 47. Viet 48. Platoon 49. Ghillie Dhu 50. Z obra 51. Luna

6b ? 6c 6b 6c

© coronn.com

5 2. 2. A ld ui ui no no i l dr dr ui ui do do 53. Gr izzly 5 4. 4. Ac qu qu a c hi hia ra ra 55. Buon Anno 56. Zer Zero o in Cond Condott otta a 57. Steston 5 8. 8. T ut ut to to d a r if ar ar e 59. Xy

6c 7a,7a+ 7 a+ a+ 7b+ 7b+ ? 8a ?

54

55, 57 58 56

59

coronn.com Address: Via Aradolo 4a 12010 Andonno (CN) ITALY email: [email protected]

Published 2007, May

El Chorro How to find the crags: Drive from the airport in the direction of Malaga, Malaga, turn onto highroad A357 A357 and follow this road for about 30 km, then turn right in the direction of Alora on road A343. After 9 kilometre ki lometres, s, take road 7077 and continu continue e 4,5 4 ,5 kilometr kilometres es to reach Alora. In Alora you find the closest super market, even if you can get some food foo d in the area of El Chorro it will cost you +25%. From Alora, follow signpost for El Chorro (Desfiladero de los Gaitanes, Garganta dei Chorro). Just before an artificial lake, turn left, cross the river and drive up to the small village El Chorro. In the village you will find two huts, a bar and a railway station (You can also take the train from Malaga to El Chorro, a car is necessary for to reach the outlying areas. To get to Desplomlan Desplomlandia: dia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about

5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction; hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro; you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometres Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand just under a mast. To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side of the road you will see a farm. Park, cross cross the road and walk down to the riverbed riverbed where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk back over the bridge from the car park and then turn right, you will find a hole where you can abseil down to the bottom of the cave.

Campillos

A 9 2 A38 4 A3

Antequera Teba

Campillos Gorge

Estación

A 3 5 7

Antequera

5 9 A 3

Teba A3 4 43 3

A 3 6 7

Desplomlandia Desplom landia Valle de Abdalajis

El Chorro

Valle de Abdalagis

Villanueva

A 3 4 3

Ardales Carratraca Álora

El Chorro

A 4 5

Ardales Pizarra

Carratraca

Alora

Cártama A366

Coin Alhaurin

A357

A7 E15 E902

MALAGA

© coronn.com

Direction Teba

How to find the crags, and a big warning: warning :

Direction Desplomlandia

Lake reservoir

El Makinodromo

Las Baneras Railway side

P

Sector Escenario Los Bloques El Invento Las Baneras Sector Brasil

Petit Desfiladero

Los Cotos El Polvorin Acuario Zeppelin

On each separate Topo you will find a specified access description. Though; In a meeting between the President of the Federation Andalusia (FAM) and representatives of a delegation of the government where the access to many of the crags in El Chorro was discussed disc ussed the representatives of the government announced that the transit of pedestrians by the railroad is prohibited. It also announced that the control will be harder and the fine would be high. And indeed the delegation has acted of forceful form to apply the measurement, with groups of the Civil Guard by the entrance of the tunnels (and inside), in different places and on different hours. Posters placed in visible places informs (even in English) warns of the sharp prohibition, and that the fine fine be be 6.000 to 30.000 Euro. The access to many of the crags in El Chorro is very difficult without the railway tunnels and the concrete paths (ones built for the King) on the other side of the gorge is slowly falling apart. In some places you need a long jump to reach the continuing part. Together with alredy existing access problems caust by land owners to the crags Las Encantadas and El Corral the area of El Chorro is now much smaller. Many crag can now only be reached from upper gorge, and then you need a car.

Mustapha A area with a lot of caves.

Los Venenos El Recodo Pasarela de Los Venenos Santimonia San timonia

Amptrax Area Poema de Roca Albercones Placas del Olimpo Olimpo Escalera Arabe Sin Futuro Serena

Verdonia

Direction Ardales

Juaja

P

Africa

4x 4

Las Encantadas Bedees

Cer ro ro Cristo

El Corral

Refugio Refugio Refugio

P

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Sector Caliza

Hotel

R a i l w a y

Direction Alóra

How to find the crag:

1. Albercones

Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro. Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. The right hand tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrain access. pedestrain access. See the detailed map. map .

South, South-East 5-20 m, Multi-pitch 60 m. 1. Jenny 2. Estrella 3. ? (top rope) 4.? (top rope) 5. ? (top rope) 6. ? 7. Little brown baby 8. Simón ha perdido el panadero 9. Luna 10. Instinto 11. Big fun 12. Montón de chatarra 13. Vas pisando huevos

5 4+ 4+ 4+ 4+ 7b 7a 6c+ 6c 6a 6a+ 6a 4

56 39 40

53 41 42

43 44

51

52

17

2. Amptrax 26 28

16 17,19 21 4+ 18 20 22

14. La corona 15. Punto de salida 16. El pájaro loco 17. Chigüaga 18. Vaca loca

54 55, 56

5 7a 7b 7b+

25

38

27

45

46

47

48

49

50

23 29 30

24

11 12

31 32 33

34 35 36 37

P

Gravelled road from El Chorro 1 2 3 19. Supers´0nica 20. Riders in the storm 21. Emmanuelle 22. Si te vas...

14 15

6 7 8 9 4 5 7b+ 7b+ 6c+ 7a+

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10, 11

12,13

23. La Chivito ( neads gear ) 24. Trepadero de Acceso 25. Sapillo Momificato 26. Saca la Lengua 27. Cosa de Dos 28. Quítate la ropa 29. Troncomovil 30. Ganímedes 31. Engrase la Bisgara Macarra 32 Estas Porido Chaval

3,4,3 5 7b+ 6b+ 6c 6b+ 6a 6b+ 6c+ 7c+

33. Rompe hielo 34. Chicüelito Querido 35. Arzapua 36. Los capullos 37. ? 38. Océano gris 39. Project 40. Vuelo nocturno 41. Variant 42. La trompa de la virgen 43. Safari 44 Bruchfee

8a 6b+ 7b 7b 7c 7a ? 7b 7b 7a 7b 6c

45. Me duelen los huevos 46. Zulú Exprés 47. Alien Girl 48. Chica pelirroja 49. Gabi 50. Puitferio 51. Er Vuelo de los Peluos 52. El Virgo de Vencenteta 53. Cita en Sevilla 54. El El Tr Truco del Alm Alme endr dru uco 55. Sufre Mamón 56 Malditos roedores

7a 6a+ 5a+ 6a 6a 6a 6a+ 6b+ 7a+ 7a 7a+ 6c+

2. Amptrax South, South-East 5-30 m, Multi-pitch up to 150 m.

9

1. Pa’ lante amigos 2. Son cuartos 3. Amptrax 3. Amptrax ( neads gear ) 4. Las Cabras ( neads gear ) 5. Coño Paco 6. Sexo, drogas y flamenco 7. Alicía 8. Bienvenido al circo 9. Qué leche que tengo 10 Judea del frente popular 11. Frente popular de Judea 12. ? 13. Mario Jacinto 14. La niñas de mis ojos 15. Urriki 16. Ajonjoli 17. Soñador de grado

6a, 6c 4a,6b+ 3,4,5,5,5,4,4 5,4,4+ 7a 7a+ 7b+ 7b 6c,7b 7b+ 6a+,6c+,6b,6a 5a,6c+ 6b+ 6c+ 7a+ 7c 6a+,6a,6a

9 1 2

14

16

3 4 5

6 7 8

10, 10, 11 12

17

13

Short routes

Next to route number 16 follows seven short routes. How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

Drive or walk to the bar by the railway station in El Chorro. Continue through the village and locate the small road that turns off to the left. The road pass a camping area (on your left ). Finally you arrive to a open place where you have to park the car if you have one. The crag is located on the other side of the railway. Take the track that leads up the hill over the tunnel to the right. The tunnel to the left is the access to a lot of other crags as Santimonia, Los Venenos but also crags as far away as El Makinodromo. The right tunnel ( which leads back to El Chorro ) is narrow and has no pedestrain access . See the detailed map. map .

3.1. Poema de Roca

1. Café cous bourbon 2. ? 3. Gaia 4. El orejazo 5. Hamunaptra 6. Honk down 7. Ak sunamun 8. Habana club 9. In Inso somn mnio io de eq equi uipa pami mien ento to 10. Seco y Pedro 11. ? 12. Canal 13. Antidoto 14. ? 15. El padre Orillos 16. Hora Kane 17. El fín de una vida

South, South-East 10-30 m, Multi-pitch up to 200 m.

18. Costris climbers 19. Acceso verdes 20. Verdes Venonas 21. Hierbes Letales 22. ? 9 Maquina Cualquiera 15 Poema de Roca 22 ?

4b,6c,7a,6c+ 4b 6c,7a+,6b+ 7a 7c+ 7c 7b+ 7a 6c+ 6c + 6b,6c,7a+ 6a,6c+,7a+ 6a ? 7c 7b+ 7b 7b,6b+,7a+, 7b+,7b,6c,4c 7c 6b 7a+ 7b 4a,6c 7b+,6c+,7a+, 7b+,7a+,6a+ 7a,7c+,7b, 7c,7a,6c 6b,7a

6 5

21 20 13, 15, 14 16 12

1

2

3, 4 7

11

How to find the crag: 9 15

17 18

22 8 9

10

19

22 Amptrax

© coronn.com

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T junction, junct ion, hold left and follo follow w the step road road.. Just Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left and take the next one down to an open place, park here. Walk towards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See the detailed map. map .

47. ? 48. ? 49. ? (left variant) 50. ? (right variant) 51. ? 52. La princesa Carol 53. Suizo

3.2. Poema de Roca, Cave South, South-East 10-30 m, Multi-pitch up to 200 m.

19. Acceso verdes 20. Verdes Venonas 21. Hierbes Letales 22. ? 23. Kervala 24. Maquina Cualquiera 25. El complot 26. Lavia Stragniato 27. Eye of the storm 28. Thunder struck 29. Swimming trough a shark attack 30. ? 31. Viejos rockeros 32. Conexión 33. Poema de roca 34. Alicantropica 35. Rima libre 36. Viejo traidor 37. Miquel 38.Morritos Jeagger 39. Rudolf 40. Viejo Amigo 41. García Aguas 42. Scorpión 43. Los señores de HXF 44. ? 45. Mamacita 46. El ave fénix

6b 7a+ 7b 4a,6c 8b 7b+,6c+,7a+,7b+,7a+,6a+ 8a+ 7b 7b+ 8a 8a ? 8a+ 8b 7a,7c+,7b,7c,7a,6c ? 8a 7b+ ? 7b 7c+ 7a 6b 5a 7c+ ? 8a ?

6a 6c 7a+ 7b ? 4c 5+

44 33

39

45

54. Vivacporus 55. El se señ ñor de la las s ti tin nie ieb bla las s 56. Solarium 57. Lobo Lobez 58. Deprish y con Bulla 59. Super mario 60. Nanuz 61. A Pique de un Repique

7b 6b,7 ,7a a 7b 7b 6c 6a+ 6a+ 6c

46

43

34 37 21

53 26 23 24, 25

19 22

36 2728 30 31,, 31 29 32 35 38 40 41 42

61 56 47 t to 5 o 52 2

57 58

54

59 60

55

Amptrax


© coronn.com

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore the first little road to the left and take the next one down to an open op en place, park here. Walk towards the crag on one of many tracks that al leads to it. See the detailed map. map.

4.1. Placas del Olimpo West 20-30 m

9 1. Los Aristogatos 2. Los Aristogatos variant 3. Hijos de la Luna 4. Diploducus Activo 5. Vuelo Migratorio 6. Vuelo Migratorio variant 7. ? 8. Muñon Free 9. ? 10. Troglodita Feroz 11. Vaya placa 12. Gran Fisura 13. Moloch 14. La banda del Sur 15. Nameless power 16. Trango 17. Project 18. Kukenan Tepoi 19. Escalon de Hillary

3c,6c 3c,6c 4c 6a+ 4c 4c,3c 7a+ 7a+ 6c 6b 4c 6a 6a 8b 8c 8b ? 7b+,7c 6a+,6a+

10

6 11 12

6

14 15

2

13

16 17 18

8 7 1,2

3

4

19

5, 6

* neads gear. How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and park in a right bend where bend where the road are nea r the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Walk the steep track up to the crag. crag . See the detailed map. map .

4.2. Sin Futuro West 20 m

1. Sin futuro 2. Moya boom 3. Sport Billy 4. Gollum bueno 5. Gollum malo 6. Rabillos de pasas 7. Tila para el estrés 8. Cerar atack 9. Bienmesabe

7b 7c 7b+ 7a 6a 6c 6b 4c 6b+

F a t A

l b

e r t

2

6 x 2 8 .

8 2 x 6 .

2 t

r e b l A t a

F

1

2 3

8 4

5

6

9

7


© coronn.com

Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and park in a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley vall ey ). Walk the steep track up to the crag. Sin Futuro is to be found below Olimp o. See the detailed map. map .

5.1. Escalera Arabe

South 30 m

1

2

3 4

5

6

7 89 1011 12

13

14 1516 17

1. The final after 2. Potrero chico 3. Bagigi 4. El beso de la flaca 5. Lucky no come Pan 6. Filou 7. Blanca 8. Es Escolopendra gu guajanii 9. El amor sandunguero 10. Col Colo obo borración ci ciuda dad dana 11. Alta traición 12. Engendro caneki 13. El árabe perdido 14. Lococolo 15. Diedre torpedol 16. Arabesque 17. Sheik tu dinero

7b 6b 5a 5a 6a 6a 6a 6b+,6c 6c,6b+ 7a+ 7a+ 6a,6a+ 6c+ 7a 6c 7a 7a

© coronn.com

18. Birdy 19. Calvo potrón 20. Coming on strong 21. Rock the kasbah 22. Sólo afeitar 23. ? 24. La Raya a la izquierda 25. Antonio y Sergio 26. Yo y mi resaca 27. For fite 28. Double edged

18 19 20

7b+ 7c 7a+ 7b 6a 3c 4c 4c 4c 6b 6c

21

22

23 24

25

26

27

28


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up to to the crag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing See the detailed map

5.2. Escalera Arabe

South 30 m

27. For fite 28. Double edged 29. Pecho lobo 30. Pecho lata 31. Una Ilora siempre 32. El Navigator 33. Los gemelos 34. La sonrisa vertical 35. Longarone

6b 6c 6a+ 7a 6c 6c,6a,6c,3c,7a 6c 6c 6b+

36. La chillona 37. O sole mio 38. Los timbales 39. El artista 40. Dos tetas tiran 41. Más que una carretas 42. Highway to Africa 43. Mali en Suzuki 44. ? 45. Kiwi 46. La gaita

3a,6a,6a 5a 4c 3a 6b+ 6a 5a,6b 6a+, 6c 6b 4a 3c

46 45 20

21

36

37

38

39

40 41 42

44

43


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. Just where the road starting to be strait a small gravelled dirty road turns of sharp to the left, follow that. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. Follow this road, first in a quite wide right turn, then it change direction towards the other side of the valley. During this trip/walk you will see Poema de Roca. Ignore two small roads that turns off to the left and pass a right bend where the road are near the crag ( you have just passed the valley ). Continue a couple of hundred metres and park on a lay-bay on your left. A pinnacle can be seen, this is by the crag. A couple of hundreds metres hard walk up walk up to the crag rewards with a beautiful scenery and nice climbing. climbing. See the detailed map. map.

Further up in the valley you will find another small crag, Serena, with 8 routes, from left to the right; 1. Mar de nubes 2. ? 3. ? 4. ? 5. ? 6. ? 7. Project 8. La trifulca

6b 6a 6a 6a+ 6c+ 7a+ ? 6a

33 29 30 31 32 34

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35

6. Las Encantadas

South 30 m

20

1

2

1. Bolondro 2. Nobro Propio 3. Bohem Destrell 4. Poum Poum Ram Ram 5. Para Para Que Dis Disfru frute te la la Canal Canalla la 6. Crisis de Intentidad 7. Atenea 8. Geisha 9. Program Genocida 10. Mañon Tropo 11. Las Mulas Comen Muchas Cuerdas 12. Un Lait Fraiche pour Monsieur 13. Generación Límite 14. Mam Endika 15. Bueno, Bonito y Barato 16. Chorro Mundo 17. La ley del Cateto 18. Mataillos Lugareños 19. Artemisa 20. Tipo Indio 21. No me Miras Mal 22. No Puedo Controlarme

6a+ 6a 6a+ 6a 6b 6a+ 4 6a 6c 7b 8a+ 7b 7b+ 8a+ 6c+ 7a+ 6c+ 6c 5+ 7b+ 8a 6c+

24 25 32

31, 26 27 28 30 32

3 4

5

6

29

7 8 18

9 15

10 11

23. Espoloa Nombrada 24. Un Poco Vicioso 25. Mezcia Explosiva 26. Kit Grimpe 27. Gros ?Rouge 28. Pero qu q uién tiene la culpa 29. Sara 30. Bailando con oses 31. Dura Vida la de un Frekee 32. Fiebra de Sur

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21 22 23

7a+ 7a+ 8a 7b+ 7b 7a 7a+ 7b 6c+ 7a

12

16 17

19

13 14


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the crag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunately sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before you climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe loweroff. If you stay at Finca at Finca la Campana, walk up walk up between the refugio and the house to the crag. crag. See the detailed map. map.

7 and 8. Bedees, El Corral

South, South-East 30 m

17 18 19 16

78 6 4 5 2 1 Bedees (Not on TOPO)

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11 12

13

13, 14

3

1. Pre Prepa pare rete te en en los los Bod Bodge gega gass 2. Bedees 3. Einfach zu Einfach

9

10

6c 6b+ 6b

15

1. Arnold 2. El Corral 3. Mano Incorrecto 4. La Cantante calve 5. Super mano 6. Los Muyayos 7. Doble cero 8. Lengua de Fuego 9. Avecrem a mano 10. Ceregumil´s kid 11. Pata Negra 12. Monodedo de mono 13. Un día de Playa 14. Capitian Carvernícola 15. Resbaizimo 16. Ritz 17. Tumbado 18. El Jouen Roman 19. La Chata Rosa

7a+ 5+ 6c 7c 7b+ 6c+ 7a 7a+ 6b 7b 8a 8b 7c+ 7c+ 7b 6a+ 6c+ 6b 7b


Drive or walk to the bar next to the railwaystation, continue and pass the Hotel. In the first T-junction, hold left and follow the step road. After a couple of sharp bends the road becomes "strait". After about 200 meters you will find a closed bar on your right. Park there and walk up to the crag. If you walk, find a track direct up from the Hotel and you will come to the same road. These crags, Las Encantades, El corral and Bedees, superb crags, is unfortunately sometimes closed, so you better ask some locals of the situation before you climb. You must use a 60 meters rope for safe loweroff. If you stay at Finca la Campana, walk up between the refugio and the house to the crag. crag. See the detailed map. map.

9. Caliza

North 15 m

16 17 18

1 2

3

4

8 9 10 11 12

5

13 14

19

15

6 7

1. Caliza 2. Parecía más 3. Arranpicare con Adán 4. La Abujeritos 5. No más té 6. Harte un té 7. Santi ana 8. Medio Dia 9. Juantanamera 10. Diurana 11. Nocturna 12. ? 13. ? 14. ? 15. ? 16. Guacamayo 17. ? 18. ? 19. Diedro guanamino

6b+ 6a+ 6b 6a 6a 5a 4a 6a 6b+ 6a+ 6a+ ? ? ? 6b 7c+ 6c+ 7c 6b

Route number 11 and 19 neads gear. How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

From El Chorro, drive or walk on the road over the bridge by the dam. Turn right and continue about 300 meters and Calzia is located just by by the road on your left. left. See the detailed map. map.

High tech DMM manufactured quick draw as follows; hot forged, lightweight quick draw, 99 gram full strength, 24/8/8, anodized 7075 T6 Alloy, iso9001, 3sigma, CE marked, gate opening: 28 mm,supplied with a 12 mm dynema® sling, black&white, 10 cm alloy coloured biners, titan coloured bent gate, anodized, shrouded nose helps guard against accidental gate opening.

10. Los Venenos, Pasarela de Los Venenos

South, South-East 15-40 m, Multi-pitch up to 110 m. 1. Diedro de Hercules 2. Luz Verde 3.La Cupla la Tiene el Bar de Isabel 4. Fruto prohibito 5. Valla plan 6. Ace Ventura 7. El ultimo rayo del sol 8. Aixamatinae 9. Jaque el Rey

6b+,6b 7b 7a 8b 6c+ 8a+ 7a+ 7c+ 7c+

15

17 21 19 20

16

17 18

Walkway to Santimonia

8

9

10

11 12 13

22

23

14 15

2

5 3

7

4 6

10. Les Cutres 11. Pedorro y Macaco 12. Demócratas Cristianos 13. No seas pesada nena 14. Camino shuffle 15. El techito del pirata 16. La Ampola 17. Octopus dey 18. Avión Rockero

6b+ 7c+ 7a+ 6c+ 7b 6a,5 6a ,5,5 ,5+, +,5+ 5+,5 ,5+ + 5,6a,6a,6a,5+ 6c,6a,6c 5+,6a,6a

© coronn.com

1

19. Victima de la Evidence 20.. Empotrador Atómico 20 21. Zapatilla Jebe 22. Excedente de cupo 23. Venecia celeste

6a 5+ 7a 6a,6a+,6b,5 5+,5+,5+,4

Warning, access by the railway tunnel is prohibited! click to read more How to find the crag:

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where w here you sometimes could need a rope for safe access. See the detailed map. map.

Warning, access by the railway tunnel is prohibited! click to read more

11. Santimonia

South 60 m. 1 Ventana en el Tropico 2 Camino sin Ander 3 Sendero Luminoso 4 Polva de Angel 5 Hartelo 6 Sangre Latina 7 La Tregua del pedal 8 Santimonia

7a+ 4,6a,6a+,4 5+/a2,6a, 3,6b,6c+,5,5 8b+ 7b 6c 7c+ 6c+,6a,6b

1 6

To Africa

9 Desos de Domino 10 Jabega 11 Moco de Hierro 12 Lobo de Mar 13 Er-Mouriadine 14 Chupa la gamba

2

3

7a+ 7b+ 6c 7a+ 6c 6b,6b

4 5,6

7 8

3

9 10 11 To Pasarela de Los venenos

12 13 14 How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access. Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway walkway around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. care. See the detailed map. map.

12. Cerro Cristo

South, South-East 30 m, Multi-pitch up to 160 m. 8

1

2

3

4

6

5

1. Heavy gravity 2. Bring your friends 3. Pos Comeme el Cipote Maricona 4. I'm still thinking 5. Teta, Coño, Culo 6. Aparaca Aparacamiento miento Indebido Indebido 7. Rayito de Luna 8. Thaillelandia

7

6a+ 6c+ 6c+ 6c+,7a 6c+,8a,5+ 5+,6a,6b,6c 4,5+,6a,6a,6a,6b+ 7c

Route number 1,2,3,6 and 7 neads gear. How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

From El Chorro. Drive or walk down the "main" road, pass the bridge over the dam and take right. You will pass Sector Caliza and a bar, both on your left. Continue until the road turns left and you are about to miss the view over the lake. You will find a car park on the right side of the road. Walk back and down to the water ( often just sand and stone ). Find some dry way to cross over to the crag. This crag ain't really worth visiting. See the detailed map

13. Africa

3

North, North-East Multi-pitch up to 150 m.

1. Material Belico 2. Africa 3. La bella y la bestia 4. Chiripitiglauticos 5. La Dame del viento 6. Cuando se lo diga a mis amigos

4,5,5,6a 6a+,6b+,5,6b 6a+,7a+,7a,7a 5+,6a,5+,6b+ 6b+,6b,6c,6c+ 6b+,6b,6c+,6b+

4 3

All routes neads neads gear gear for descent, descent, rote number number 3 and 5 are fully boulted.

Tunnel from Juaja.


e r t D h o n g nu e ni in b on e n ti t g t ht hw uo e c e n h

5

2

4

1

© coronn.com

3

2,3

5,6

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access. Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. Cross the bridge and on your left is Africa. Approach by crawling along a tunnel that is marked on the TOPO for Sector Juaja. Abseil 52 meter to the ledge over the water and traverse leftwards. Use the same tunnel to to get back. See the detailed map


14. Juaja

North-West 25 m.

9

8,9 6

7

10 1. Enimigo Público 2. Juaja 3. E por Doquier 4. Granainos '85 5. Atlética y Llorica 6. ? 7. Page make 8. Cangreo 9. Monsters forever 10. Verbene de Lapiz 11. Un Una Es Española nu nunca me mea so sola

7b 7a+ 8a+ 6b 7a+ 7c 7b+ 8c 8b 7c 7b

Route number 4 neads gear. 4

5

11 1

2

3 To El Recodo Access to Africa


© coronn.com

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access. Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in gap in the walkway so take care. Cross the bridge and you will find these crag. The tunnel is the access to Africa. Africa. See the detailed map

15. El Recodo

North 30 m. See "How to find the crag" for route 1,2 and 3.

1. Ve Verd rdon onia ia (a (accce cess ss to 2t 2to4 o4)) 2. Moloko plus 3. Enano Pagano 4. Harte drogadisto 5. D i x c i 6. Pixci 7. La Canastera 8. Tipo Sueca 9. Calígula 10. El Campista 11. Musas Inquientantes 12. Iriquieza 13. Hari-Kiri 14. Cherokee 15. Bon voyage 16. Apache 17. Rasta de posta 18. Come Unas 19. Los Capitalistas 20. Bob Marley 21. Rovicunda 22. Ale bop 23. Todos pretenden saber 24.. Los 24 Los Goz Gozas as y las las So Somb mbra rass 25. King Kong 26. Indio Jumeli 27. Recodo 28. Six Vicious 29. Tumisimo 30. Sietebe del Plumero 31. Miss Dedos 32. Cachito 33. Nachito 34. Lluvias Otoñales 35. Maestro Golpeador

4c,4 4c ,4cc 6c+ 6c+ 5a 6c+ 6b+ 7b+ 6c+ 6c,7b+ 7b+ 8a 7b+,7c+ 8c + ? 6c,6b+ 6b,7a+ 6b+ 6a+ 7c+ 7b+ 6b 6a+ 6c 6c+, 6c +,7a 7a 6b+ 6c 6a+ 6b+ 7b+ 7a+ 6c+ 6c 6b 4c 6b

© coronn.com

12

16 13 14 15

5 6

7

8

9

10

11

20

21

22

19 17 18

23

24

25 26 27

31 28 29 30

35

33 32

34


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it is a fast way to the other area´s and when you ain´t in the tunnels the scenery sometimes are extraordinarily. The walkway ( Camino del Ray ) is a amazing concrete path where you sometimes could need a rope for safe access. Before the tunnel at Los Venenos, take left and follow the concrete walkway around the corner. Just before the Pipe bridge there is a big gap in the walkway so take care. Cross the bridge and follow the walkway, pass Juaja, in to a cleft and continue, behind the next corner you will find most of the routes of this sector. Just before you pass pass the corner a track up to the left leads you to the first tree routes, all are graded 6c+. 6c+. See the detailed map

16. Mustapha

17. Zeppelin

South 60 m.

South East 10 m, Multi-pitch 300 m. 25 m.

1. Zeppelin 2. Espolón Masay 3. ? 4. Shaka Zulu 5. Perspectiva Neieski 6. Gresca gitana 7. Lactarius Delciosus 8. La Peña se Despeña 9. Acuario 10. Papalillo Pafuena 11. Doña Patrícia 12. ? 13. Mustafa 14. Estrella de Sur 15. Diedre de Los Vencejos 16. Reino Fungi 17. Sangre aborigen 18. El secadero 19. Los Tres Techos 20. Ron pálido 21. Alas de mosca 22. ? (no TOPO) 23. Bahia Cochino (no TOPO)

18. Acuario

4,6a+,5,6c,6c+, 5,6b+,3,6b,4 3,5+,5+,5,5+ 6b+,3,6b,4 8c 8b 8b+ 8a+ 6b+ 6c+ 6a+ 6a ? ? 6c+,7c+,5+ 6c+,7a a1 7b+ 8a+ 8c a2 8c ? 6b+ 7a+

Warning, access by the railway tunnel is prohibited!

19

17 15

Mustapha 18 20 21

click to read more

7

11 How to find the crag:

12

3

Route number 1,2,9,10,15 and 19 neads gear.

1

2

13

14

Acuario 4 56

22 and 23. The first one is 22.

8

© coronn.com

9 10

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and the next time you will see the sky it's time to abseil down from the railway bridge. Go left if you want to climb route number 12 and 13, head right if you want to climb any of the other other ones. See the detailed map

19.1. Los Cotos

Sector Bajas and Medios South-East 35 m.

29

14 2

13

15

16

17

18

19 20 21

22 23 24 25

26

27

28

30 31

12


11

1 3 4

5

6

7 8 9

1. Rebuznos de Amor 2. Jakima 3. Diedro y Quique 4. Ordinada Salvaje 5. Mama quiero ser Torero 6. San Satanas 7. San Gabriel 8. La Hora del Maquis 9. La Placa Morrocoduda 10. Berrinche de Chinche 11. El Yerno de Abraham

10

7b+ 6c 3,3+ 4c 6a 4c 4c,4c 4c 6a 6b 6a

12. Les Muelles de Guite 13. 4 Mejilliones 20 duros 14. Rafael Anyaya 15. Camella cojo 16. Fisuroterapia 17. Fisura de los Santos 18. Fisura de Hambre 19. Bitchitos on the wailers 20. El Monstruo de las Galletas 21. Mordiscos de Amor 22. ?

6a+,7a+ 6c+ 4c+ 5a 4c 5a 3c 4a 4c+ 4c 6a+

23. Alucinosis 24. Cursillos 25. Number one 26. Bruja Intrepida 27. Galleta 28. Super Galleta 29. la Gabi 30. Los Mandriles no comen Galletas 31. La Madriles

6a 4a 3c 4c 3c 5a 6b+ 6a+ 7a

Routes written in Italics neads gear.


© coronn.com

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel tunnel you will find these crag on both sides of the entrance to the next tunnel. tunnel. See the detailed map

19.2. Los Cotos

Sector Cotos Altos South-East 45 m.

65 63

32. Empotrador Empotrador 33. Montgroni free 34. Cebolla Oscilante 35. Cebolla pá la olla 36. Genesis 37 El Arbolo 38. Bruno in the Brunin 39. Ley de la Selva 40. Embolia Cerebral 41. The policeman stole my Walkman 42. Güirilandia 43. La diagonal de Almería

4a,4a 6a+ 5a 4c 6a+ 6a+ 6a+ 6b 5a 6b 7a 6a+

44. Cafe Bonk 45. Penetración Analgéssica 46 Si te Caes pega una voz 47. Amarilla 48. El ventorro

59

7a+ 6c 6c 4c,5a 6a+

58 60

47

50 54

61 62, 63 55

41 34

46

47 48, 49

51 52

56 57

53

45

38

44 43 39 40, 42 41

37 32

49. La Blanca 50. Fisura de los santos 51. Guerrero del Abismo 52. Exceso de Equipaje 53. Chungo Superior 54. Quasimodo

33 35

6b 6c 6c+ 6b+ 5a,6a 7a+

© coronn.com

36

55. Profanes y Blasfemos 56. El techo de marras 57. Pisto jilguero 58. El Dinamitate te Espera 59. Que te den por culo 60. Yu Yu

6b+ A1 6c+ 6c 6a+ 6c

70 67 68 69 65, 66

61. Ch 61. Chul ulo o de Ma Madr driz iza a 62. El Piqui 63. Petamorfosis 64. The butter finger 65. Mister proper 66.. El Vi 66 Viaj ajer ero o Am Amab able le 67. Adeli 68. Electro Volt 69. Poema vertical 70. Exodo

7a 6b+ 7a+ 8a 5a,4a 6b+ 6b + 6b+ 6b+ 7b+ 6a+

64

58


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. After the next tunnel you will find this crag on your right. right. See the detailed map

20. El Polvorin

South 60 m.

Warning, access by the railway tunnel is prohibited!

Walk down 1

2 5

6 7

1. El go gord rdo o ya ya no co come me qu quar arro ro 2. Pedro El Grande 3. Al Chorro con un porro 4. Alerta Roja 5. Sueño de Venus 6. Sueño de Venus variant 7. Pilier Dorada 8. Generación Espontanea 9. Re Revu vuel elta ta en el Fr Fren enop opát átic ico o 10. Habitos de un Perturbado Irremerdiable

11. Las prefiero tontas 12. Gámes Moya 13. Obsesión permanente 14. La araña Mecánica 15. Paco Eugene 16. Nirvana 17. Rono y Extraploma 18. Urbi et orbe 19. Los Cocodrilos 20. El Engendo

5a 6a 6b 6c 6a+ 6b 6c 6c 6a,6c 6a, 6c+ + 6c 6c 6a+,6c+ 6b+,6c 6b+ 3c,4c,3a,4c,6a 3c,4c,6b+ 6c 7a 7a+ 6a+

4

click to read more

8 17


4 5, 6

7, 9 10 11 12 8 13 19

14

18

Route number 12,15 and 16 neads gear. 15, 16

3

© coronn.com

20

From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Walk down towards this place and you will find El Polvorin. See the detailed map

21. El Invento

South-East 20 m. 19 20

12

1

2

3

4

6

5

1. Fresquito Fresquito 2. Me empino con un Chumino 3. Discordia 4. Saumerio 5. Alucina por la Esquina 6. Diedro Veneno 7. La leche que mamaste 8. Ahora que te Pillo sola 9. Hay pan 10. Al talego

© coronn.com

6c 6a 6b 7b+ 7b+ 6a 7b+ 7a+ 6b 6b+

7

8

11. Sabrino Royal 12. Pantominas 13. Esclavo del grado 14. Lo Tomas o lo Dejos 15. Champamania 16. La Via Shin 17. Peripecias de Invalido 18. Nacida para la critica 19. Hemoglobina 20. Juego duro

13 14

15

16

17

18

11

9 10

6b+ 6b+ 6c+ 7b 6c+ 6b 6c 6c+ 6b 6c


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks many tracks that all leads to the crag. cra g. See the detailed map

22. Los Bloques and Los Tigres

South-East 15 m.

21 12 10 11

20 14 15 16 17, 19 18 13

89 1

3

2

4 5 1. Comicos y Modistas 2. Em 3. Straw Donkey 4. La Tete de Mari 5. Ha Hayy un un Gua Guari rillllo o en en la la Tap Tapia ia 6. Salto del gato 7. Salto del gato II 8. ? 9. ? 10. El segundo pigue 11. La política del piquillo

6b+ 7a+ 7b 8b 6a 6b 6b+ ? 7c 7c+ ?

12. Guiris go home 13. El paso del Serengueti 14. La comunidad afro 15. Prisa mata 16. Por puro vicio 17. El salto del tigre 18. Life with never end 19. Los siete Larrys 20. ? 21. Tatuaje

© coronn.com

7a 8a 7b+ 7c+ 7c 8a 7c 7b ? ?

6 7


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads lea ds to the crag. The first boulted boulted area is El Invento, the second is this crag. cra g. See the detailed map

23. El Makinodromo

Warning, access by the railway tunnel is prohibited! prohibited!

South-East 35 m.

click to read more

A judge beautiful beautiful overhang 18 17

a 28 19

30

43

33

21 22

26 25

38

6 34 35 27 29 31 32, 33

7 3

4

2 1 1. Transpoting 2. Samarkanda 3. El oráculo 4. Randy 5. Que trabaje Rita 6. Variant 7. Kuala Lumpur 8. Al Ha Kan 9. Al Ha Kan 10. Lourdes 11. La más señora de todas las putas

5

7b+ 8b+ 8b 8b 8c+ 8c ? 8c+ 9a 8a ?

© coronn.com

8

9

12,, 10 11 12

14 15

16

20, 23 24 21

13

12. Conexión Lourdes 13. La más puta de todas las señoras 14. Cous-cous 15.. Ces 15 Cesko koss sslo love vens nsko ko Do Dopi pich chii 16. Melanpina 17. Smashing Pumpkins 18. Variant of 17 19. Atlas Shrieked 20. Pepe el boludo 21. Dentellada 22. Porrot 23. Muten Roy 24. Vete al Infierno 25. Ha kuna Mattata 26. Los Lei Lafen 26a. Estoy mortimer 27. Salida de emergencia 28. Rhytem metod 29. Mystic Rhythem 30. ?

36

8a+ 8a+ 8c 8c 8a 8a 8a+ 7c+,7c 8a 8a+ 7c+ 8a 7b 7a+ 7b 7a+ 6c,7b+ 7a+ 6b+ ?

31. La panda zampabollos 32. La columba de Gollum 33. Life is sweet 34. Ossana en el cielo 35. Kolocotron 36. Anatema 37. No te enfades chaval 38. Heat change

7a+ 7b 6c 7b+ 7a+ 7b 7c 7a

39 40

41 42

44

45 46

47 48

4950

37

39. Canto pecato 40. One Bastiamba 41. Post Festum 42. Mega flash 43. Grimal el Curtido 44. Punk Street 45. Putanaki 46. Reep 47. ? 48. El pollón de Merchó 49. La aprieta 50. Efecto ajo

7a+ 7b 7b 7a+ 7a 7a 7b+ 7b 7c+ 7a+ 8a 7c


From the parking at Albercones ( see crag number 1 ), walk by the railway through the tunnels (look out for train! ) to this area. The track ain't pleasant but it's a fast way to the other area´s. Walk through several tunnels and pass sector Los Venenos, the tunnel open up and you will be in a narrow cleft with a extrordinary scenery, continue and pass the Zeppelin area. Continue and pass the area of Los Cotos and after the next tunnel you will arrive to a beautiful valley with a perfect spot for wild ( forbidden ) camping by the river. The local police often visit this place to see that no one is camping here ( though many take down the tents and put them up again after a couple of hours). Take right and leave the railway towards the crag up to your left on one of many tracks that all leads to the crag. El Makinodromo is a very beautiful crag with the well knowed route Lourdes (8a). It's a long walk to come here, but the climbing and the scenery scenery tends to make this this crag to one of the best memories for a cold day at work back home See the detailed map

24.1. Las Baneras

Walkway side North 30 m.

2

1

1. Ojos Saltones 2. Hercúles Poirot 3. Tartar 4. Ve Vend ndav aval al de an antitigü güeda edade dess 5. Asprománix 6. Él cena tarta de la la ab abu uela 7. Color dominante 8. Moro sioputa 9. El El im imperio de de lo los se sentidos 10. Pinchito moruno 11. Salvaje violador 12. ? 13. Al Verdón con un melón 14. Perrito caliente 15. Sin columpiarse 16. Perro violador 17. Algo sobre la virgen 18. Con tangas y a lo loco 19. A Golpe de mazo 20. Replicanto y con el Mazo dando 21. Lo Los mi mitos tam amb bién llora ran n 22. Walkway Waltz 23. ? 24. Hijo puta el que quite La Chapa 25. Menbrillo 26. Edy el valiente 27. Palomo cojo 28. ? 29. ? 30. Moco 31. El ultimo Blues 32. Saga Corniz 33. Mola más que America 34. Tubular bells

7b 8b 7a ?,6b ?, 6b+,8 +,8a, a, 7a,7a+ 5a 6c 7b 7a 6c 6c 6b 6a 6a+ 6b 7a+ 6b 6b 6c+ 7b+ 7c+ 7b 6b+ 6c+ 3c 4c 6a+ 6b 6a 6c 6b 6c 6c+ 6a+ 6c+

© coronn.com

3 21

18 4

5

6

7

8

9 10

11 12 13

28

14

15

20

17

16

31

32

25

26 27

23 24

19

29 30

22

33

34


The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift. Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not not alowed to drive further and and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. walkway. See the detailed map

24.2. Las Baneras

South and North 30 m, Multi-pitch up to 200 m. The railway side

5 6

7

14 15 16 17

8

4 1

2

3

9

10 11

12

13 18 19 20 21 22 23

1. La Yacuzi 2. Les Estrellas nom Encaloman por los veredas

3. Pate de Peil 4. Er Era a vi virg rgen en y te tení nía a ho holg lgur ura a 5. Lavadero Flipin 6. Especie de nada 7. T.V. Plus 8. La tortas del grado 9. Tema libre 10. Surimi 11. Batracio

6b+ 6a+ 6c+ 7a+ 7a + 6c 7b 6c+ 6a,7a+ 7c+ 7a 7a

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12. la Topo buana 13. Vientos modernos 14. Techo del popeye 15. Brutus 16. Olivia 17. Cocoliso

6b+,6b 6c,6c+ 7c,6c 7b,6c+ 7b,? 7b,?

18. ? 19. Project 20. ? 21. Giganta verde 22. Onda vital 23. No acabada

7a+ ? 7c 7a+,A0,7b+,8a,7b 8c 8c+


The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift. Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you you are not alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. walkway. See the detailed map

25 and 26. Escenario, Brasil

South and North 25 m, Multi-pitch up to 50 m.

5

6

7

8 9 10

3

1

4

2

1. Escenario de bufones 2. Avecrem a mano 3. Instinto cabrero 4. Instinto asesino 5. ISouvenir del Brasil 6. Caipiriña 7. Carallo 8. Pachanga 9. Maverick 10. ?

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6a+,7a 5,5,6a+ 7b+ 7a+ 6a 5a 4c 7b 7a 6c+


The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift. Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. See the detailed map

The railway side.

27. Petit Desfiladero

To El Invento

South and North 45 m. 12 11

Abseil 20 m.

4

6

1. Robert Curtino 2. ? 3. ? 4. El último mangante 5. Empacho de gobacho 6. Tú Vegas 7. Tito Camarón 8. Les batiste 9. Les papanates 10. Torturas Ninjas

© coronn.com

14 Abseil 30 m.

15

3

1 2

5

13

17

7 8

7a ? ? 6b 7a+ 7c 6a+ 6c 7b 5

9

16

10

11. Ruta de la Lycra 12. La higuerola 13. Escuela sin grado 14. paseo por el Limbo 15. Latex lubricated 16. ? 17. Charro del Charro 18. Cantos Nibelungos

18

6c 7b 7c+ 7a 6c+ ? 6c,6c+ 7b


The sector "Upper Gorge" could be reached from El Chorro, by foot, through the tunnels, but the walk takes approximately 1,5 hour. But El Chorro is a place where you easy get in contact with other climbers, and if you don't have a car then try to get lift. Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and take right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue until just before a bar, a narrow road turns to the right, follow that. Park where you are not alowed to drive further and walk down to Upper Gorge and the concrete walkway. The bridge and and the track that follows leads follows leads to El Invento and back to El Chorro. Chorro. See the detailed map

How to find the crags:

28. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get to Desplomlandia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand just under a mast. To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag. See the road map Click here to get to the crag Suizo Click here to get to the crag Metecaña

Click here to get to the crag Poza de la Mona

Click here to get to the crag Triángulo

Click here to get to the crag Acebuche

Click here to get to the crag El cable Como la vida misma

Click here to get to the crag Buena sombra

© coronn.com

Gravelled road to the lake.

Direction El Chorro

28.1. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

North-West 30 m. 19

25 24

345

1

2

6 7 8 9 10

11

12

13 14

19, 15 16 17 18 20

23

21

26

27

22 28

El Cable. Como la Vida Misma

Triángulo

To Acebuche

Buena sombra 8

31 33 32

11 1 2 3

4

© coronn.com

5

7 6

29 30

9 10

14 12 13

1. Triángulo 2. Maligno catarro 3. Aljamar 4. ? 5. Reina mora 6. Zeus Kapotas 7. Mar de ortigas 8. No toques a tu madre 9. Madre salvaje 10. Oasis de cristal 11. Conexión pelijorra 12. Qué tal mea tu padre? 13. Más que money 14. De copas 15. La copa

14,15

7a+ 6c+ 7b 7b+ 7c ? 8a 8a+ 7c 7c 8a 7b 7b+ 7b 7b

1. Puto cable 2. La flaca 3. La decepción 4. Uretrófilo 5. ? Akira 6. Dó Dónd nde e es está tán n mi miss am amig igos os? ? 7. Oleanna 8. Project 9. Mamabi 10. El ángel flamenco 11. El paso 12. Aro de Santo 13. Maritobi 14.Ostras Pedrín 15. Al loro con el Xato 16. Manzanilla madness 17. Cheyenne

5a 6c+ 7a+ 7a 7b 7c 7b+ ? 6c,7b 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6a+ 4c 6c+ 7a 7a+

18. Máquina pestosa 19. Ankana wanamino 20. Al andalús 21. Sandokan 22. Si te gusta el pique, pique 23. Capitán sardina 24. Calidad alemana 25. El emigrante 26. El chupacabras 27. Zulo master 28. Chica 29. ? 30. Lirón careto 31. Escombro 32. Aután 33. Los Zauden

7b+ 8a+ 6c 7c 6b+ 6c 6b 7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 5+ 7b+ 7a,7c 5+ 5+ 7a

28.2. Outlying area, Desplomlandia North-West 30 m. Acebuche 9 13

1

2 3 4

To the left you find 7 routes, from left; 1. El acebuche 7c 2. El an anil illo lo de lo los s nib nibel elun ungo gos s 7a+ 7a + 3. Papi xulo 7a 4. Caxé 7b 5. Pilla ratas 6c+ 6. Rantanplán 6a+ 7. Duplo 6a+

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5

6

7 8, 10 11 12, 14 15 1617 18 19 20 21 13 9

1. Dolomiti 2. Fran sin natra 3. Lirón careto 4. Escombros 5. Aután 6. Champion Leo 7. Los Zauden 8. Derribamitos 9. A ell lla a le gust sta a la gaso soli lin na 10. La golosa 11. El El mo montepío de cretinos 12. Escalador parásito 13. Las Galias 14. El comité de los sabios 15. Judas

7a+ 7b 7a,7c 5a 5a ? 7a,8a 8a 8a 7c ? ? ? ? 7b

16. 17. 18. 19. 20. 21. 22. 23. 24. 25. 26. 27. 28. 29. 30.

22 23 24 25

26 27 28

El ruin de Roma Viejos y puretas Cosas Caseras Yogur de coco Comando Escandilla Hilando fino Buena sombra Alobeitor Sin mantenimiento Provinciano marrano Debora cuerpos Escacharrá Menasatruá Vaya pieza Efecto secundario

29 7c 7a+ 7a+ 6c 6c+ 7a+ 6b+ 6b 6a 6b+ 6a+ 6b 6a+ 6b+ 6b

30

31 32 33 34 31. El arco 32. Las cosillas 33. Las cosas de Mike 34. La pyme

6b 6c+ 6b 6b

To the right of the main crag you will find a handfull of routes, 6a to 7b.

Metacaña

28.3. Outlying area, Desplomlandia

1. La Las s he herm rman anas as iz izuq uqui uier erdo do 2. El El carni carnice cero ro de de Milwa Milwauke ukee e 3. El as aseg egur urad ador or de Hu Huel elva va 4. Induráin 5. Viuda negra 6. El Führer 7. O.J. Simpson 8. Alex Zule 8. La Santa Inquisición 9. Doctor Lecter 10. El Angles 11. Los Borgian 12. Atrápalo 13.. El re 13 rettorn rno o del din ina ami mitta

North-West 30 m. Metacaña

13 14 11 8

9

12

7c 8a 7c+ 7c + A2 6c 7b 6c+ A2/6a ? ? ? ? 6a 7b

Suizo 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8.

Huevos cocidos ? ? ? La calabaza Joy Té verde miel de romero

7a ? ? ? 7c 7b 7b 7a+

10

Suizo

1 2

3 4

5

6 7

© coronn.com

1

2

3

4

5

6 7

8

28.4. Outlying area, Desplomlandia North-West 30 m.

Poza de la mona

29

16

14 15

11 12 1

2, 3

© coronn.com

4

5 6

7 8

9

10

27 17 18

19

20

21

22 23 24

25

26

13

1. Entre higos 2. Laguna betiko 3. Buen amigo 4. Parecía tonta 5. Esa bavaresa 6. Flora 7. Fauna 8. Cerebro de broca 9. Kira la bulti 10. Siempre Juli 11. Ras cubano 12. Las gordas no dan dan resaca resaca 13. Déhate de rollo 14. Súbete a la higuera 15. Poda higuera

6a 6b 6a 6a 6b 6a 6a+ 6a 6a 6a+ 6a 6b+ 6b+ 6a+ 6b

16. Abrasiva 17. Malva loca 18. Fletán negro 19. Ar Arquitectura moderna 20. Bee-bee 21. Piña disfruta 22. Vas de guais 23. Silicona beach 24. Excremento 25. Hiracundia 26. Prosineski 27. Amor al arte 28. Calorín 29. Ambiente selecto

6c 6c+ 7a+ 7a 6c+ 7b 7c 7b+ 7a 7c 7c+ 7b 4c 6b+

28

29.1. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge

West 40 m. 10

12 11

1 2

3

4

5

6

1 Yo Quierosa Papa 2 Below Tijo lands 3 Pegaso 4 El Mono sin nombre 5 Ya son muchas pechas 6 Mujer sin nombre 7? 8 Nostalgia de Antono 9 El grado viene despue 10 Elo 11 ? 12 ? 13 ? 14 Rodolfa y su cochine

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7

8

6b 7b 6c+ 6b+ 6c 6b+ 6c 6b+ 5 7b 7a+ 7a ? 6a,6a+

9,10,11,12

13

14


To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get to Desplomlandia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand just under a mast. To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm to the the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag. crag. See the road map

29.2. Outlying areas, Campillos Gorge

East 50 m.

Entrance, abseil

Big cave on sepatate TOPO

2 4

5

8

9

12 14

3

1 2,3,4,5

6

7

1? 2? 3? 4 Amarreto de Canto 5? 6 Cudain 7 Gasofa 8? 9? 10 Pasta de basta 11 Introducion al tema 12 La Costurera 13 Gorilla 14 Ritual Habitual 15 House of pain 16 Lavialatua de mach 17 Nequaquam Vacuum 18 El Guru 19 Putas fever

8a 4,4 7b 7a ? 6b+ 6a+ 6b+ 6b 5,5 4 6b+ 7a 7a ? ? ? 7a 6b+

© coronn.com

10

13

11,12

20 Violento express 21 Karo Shi 22 Arende notivo rea 23 Posey-don 24 Hi Hist stor oria ia de un una a chi chica ca ma mala la 25 Kamikaze

15

19 18 17 16

20 21 22 23 24 25

7c 7c 7b+ 7b+ 8a ?


To get to the outlying areas, Desplomlandia and Campillos Gorge, you nead a car. To get to Desplomlandia: Drive from El Chorro over the bridge and turn right. After a tour in a fantastic surrealistic landscape you will come to a T-junction after about 5 km, turn right. Continue to the next T-junction, hold right again and soon you will pass the bar where you take right if you are heading for Upper Gorge. Now pass the bar and continue. The landscape here is different from El Chorro, you have a big lake on your left. After a couple of kilometers Desplomlandia turns up on your right hand just under a mast. To get to Campillos Gorge, take the same way but before the bar in the T-junction you take left in the direction of Campillos and Teba. Follow signposts in the direction of Teba. Approximately 2-3 km before Teba you pass a bridge, on the other side you will see a farm to the left. Park, cross the road and walk down to the riverbed where you find the crag. The easy way to get to the cave is to walk ba ck over the bridge from the from the car park and then turn right, you will find a hole to abseil down to the bottom of the cave. cave. See the road map

Mallorca

3. Creveta

4. Boquer

1. Cán Txanquet

How to find the crags: 2. El Fumat

Despite the islands reputation as hot spot for tourists you can still find small villages with few tourists that offer a genuine atmosphere with the true feel of Spanish culture. If you are prepared to take your time, the small roads on the East of the island will lead you to one of the most beautiful rock climbing spots in Europe.

10. C’an Nyic 8. Es Queixal 11. Port Sóller

Pollença Port d'Alcúdia

3 7 1 C

9. Gorg Blau 12. Valldemossa

19. El Calo C 7 1 2

5. Les Perxes

Sóller

20. Ermita de Betlem

Inca

On each Topo you will find a detailed description for to reach each crag. 13. S’estrét

6. Alaró

Valldemossa

Artá

Aloró

7. Fraguel

Bunyola 0 1 7 C

14. Sa Gubia

15. Can Ortigues

PALMA

1 1 7 C

Santa Maria

MALLORCA

C715

Vilafranca

Andratx 18. Calviá

16. Piug de Garrafa Santa Sa nta Ponça

9 7 1 C

17. Santa Ponça

Manacor 4 1 7 C

C 7 1 7

Campos del Puerto

Puerto Cristo

Felanitx

22. Cala Magraner Santanyi

Cala d'Or

23. Castell de Santueri 21. Santanyi

1.1. Cán Txanquet

South-East, East 15 m.

1

2

3 4 5 6

1. Cachi kai 2. Chi craku 3. Tlanqui xanqui 4. Project 5. Fledi Ulkel 6. Project 7. Fa un Fumfi 8. Project 9. Xao Xoxin 10. Cuki 11. Teta Blik 12. Tlasmeditelanea 13. Tila pa Tlas 14. Xin Xubi

7 8 5+ 6b 7c ? 7c+ ? ? ? 7c 7a ? ? 7b+ 7a+

9

10

11

12

14

13

Cap de Formentor

Beach

P P

14 km post


© coronn.com

Platia de Formentor

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença.

Port de Pollença

1.2. Cán Txanquet


24 15

16

17

15. Xao Xina 16. Xin Xampu 17. Brut Lee 18. Xop Suey de Vaca Loça 19. Tai Xixa 20. ? 21. Xin Peldon 22. Patxi Aloz Cena 23. Xo Xoriguer am amb Xi Ximonada 24. Quin Fum Fa 25. El Cacho del Chichi más Chachi 26. Mao se la tu 27. Route, what route?

18 19

20 21

22

7b+ 7c 7c+ 7a+ 7c+ 7c 7a ? ? 7b+ 6c 5+ 5+

26

27

23

Cap de Formentor

Beach

P P

Platia de Formentor

14 km post


© coronn.com

25

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. You will find the crag approximately 100 metres after a tunnel. Enjoy a meal at one of the many restaurants in Port d'Pollença.

Port de Pollença

2. El Fumat 1. Ziritione 2. Apendre Tort 3. Duke (first pitch) 3b. Du Duquesa (t (two pi pitches*) 4. Mercury 5. Rafael Borrás 6. Na Palonia 7. Colorado 8. Old bolts 9. Project 10. Popeye 11. Hostal Paraiso 12. Citroen 13. Free Tibet 14. En Miquel está Fumat 15. Ghandi 16. Obelix 17. Obi Wan 18. El Martell de Thor 19. Vívora

North-West 30 m. Multi-pitch 80 m.

2

6a+ 7b 6b 7b 6b+ 6b+ 5+ 5+ 5+ ? 7c+ 7b 7b 7a 6c 7a 6c 6a+ 6c 6a+

* Route 3b; too step to abseil, walk down, hold right

9 10 1, 3 4 5 6 7 2

11 12

13 14 15 16

17 18

19

8

Cap de Formentor

Beach

P 13 km post post

P 2.


© coronn.com

Platia de Formentor

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue through the village along the coast. Continue in the direction of Cap de Formentor. Reaching the 13 km post, turn left and park. Cross the road and follow a small track in the direction of the crag.

Port de Pollença

3.1. Creveta, Gringo Star

North-East 30 m.

12 8

9

10

11 Mirador d’es Columet


5

6

7

4 1

2

3

© coronn.com

1. Gringo Star 2. Pammi-A 3. Cool Max 4. Frank Tapas 5. Mu Much ch Azu zure re ab abou outt not nothi hing ng 6. Azure like it 7. Northern Exposure 8. Over 30’s Club 9. Thirteen Fourteen 10. Braveheart 11. Lion Rampant 12. Craprabo

6b+ 6b+ 7a+ 6c+ 7a+ 7a + 6b+ 6c+ 6b+ 6b+ 7a 7a 6b+

Drive to Port d'Pollença and then continue along the road to Cap Formentor. After 5 km you will arrive at a sightseeing spot, "Mirador d'es Columet". Park at the big car park and walk back from the parking area on a track alongside an old water pipe. Turn right so that you can cross the second of two Cols on the ridge. Cross the Col, and turn left following the crag to the climbing area.

Port d'Pollença

P

3.1. 3.2. 3.3.

3.2. Creveta

North-East 30 m.

9 12 See 3.3. P

1

2

3

1. The boulder route 2. Nordcap 3. Lord of the Rings 4. Coordina Coordinator 5. Curset 6. Baba

5

4 5+ 6b+ 4+ 4+ 4 5

6

3.1. 3.2. 3.3.

7

8 9,10

11, 12

7. Camisasaque 8. Krilin 9. Hyperion 10. Hyperion Derecho 11. Els Corderos Atacan de nuevo 12. Jerita

5 6a 5 6a+ 6a+ 6b+


© coronn.com coronn.com


Port d'Pollença

3.3. Creveta

North-East 30 m.

14 25 26

Mirador d’es Columet

27 28

P

24 13, 14

15 16 17

13. Hussein 14. Terapia de Grupo 15. Ca magre, Puçes 16. Ja me Pagarás 17. Lastralopithecus 18. 150 Sipies 19. Récords de Bunyola 20.. El Sant Crist

18 19 20

6c 6b+ 6a+ 6c 6c 6a 6a+ 6.a+

21

22

3.1. 3.2. 3.3.

23

21. Som-hi 22. Ball o'en Bany nye eta Verda 23. Somni Bucollic 24. Glückspitz 25. Estic fins u collons 26. Lechtturm 27. Just married 28. Angsthase

6a 6b 6a+ 4+ 6a+ 6b+ 6b+ 5+


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Port d'Pollença

1? 2? 3? 4? 5? 6 Roco d'U Trampo 7? 8? 9? 10 ?

4. Boquer

N 39 55.055´ EO 03 04.986´ All point of the compass A couple up to 50 m. 11

10

9

30

8 7

12

3 15

16

4

29 28

6

1 2

6c+ 6b 3 4+ 4+ 6c 7b 7b+ 6b+ 6b

5

14 13

27

11 + 12 ? 13 ? 14 La Creu 15 ? Neads gear 16 ? 17 ? 18 ? 19 ? 20 ? 21 ? 22 L'Aguila Neads gear 23 L'Aguila direct 24 Se Seconda stella a destra 25 ? 26 ? 27 ? 28 Bicepmania 29 ? 30 ?

The crags are cl are closed. osed. Climbing is prohibited. 20

19 18 17

26

25 24 23 22 21

May 2007 P


© coronn.com

6a+ 8a 6a 5+ 4 8a 6a+ 6a 5+ 6b 5+ 5,4,4+ 5+,4,4+ 7c 6b+ 6a+ 5+ 6b+ 5 4

Drive to Port d'Pollença and continue passing the village along the big bypass road in the direction of Cap Formentor. On this road you will reach a tree-lined avenue to the right Turn left in the roundabout and park. Walk on the trackmarkt with “Cami de Cala Bóquer” that passes a farm and continues continues into the valley. valley. Direction A beautiful unusual area ideal for families. families. Unfortunately the the crag is closed for Pollença climbing for now, bolts has on some parts been removed, check with the tourist information in the village to get the latest information.

Port d'Pollença

5.1. Les Perxes, Cueva

North 25 m. 1. Less purchase 2. Petit Poi 3. Ball de Bot 4. Empire State 5. Peu deret 6. Comando Madrid 7. Odissy 8. American Express 9. Master hit 10. M&M’s 11. Calgao 12. Es Penjat 13. Central route 14. A Vista de Pajaro 15. Guiris go home 16. Project 17. Motorhead 18. Unknown 19. Terrorvisión 20. Toten Hosen 21. Bon apetit 22. Penthouse 23. Penthouse right-hand 24. Hoodoo Gurus 25. Picados

6b 6c 7a+ 8b 8b+ 8b+ 8c+ 8c 8b+ 8a + 7b 7a+ 7c+ 8a+ 8c ? 7c+ 8c+ 8a 7c 8a 7c ? 7b+ 7c+

5 12 10

8 5,6

3 1

2

4

7

9 11, 13 14 12

15 16

17 18 19

23 21 22 24

25


Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road r oad signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend, continue on a well marked footpath signpost for “Santuari de LLUC” and you reach the crag after about 300 metres. Muro the Caimari ; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is on to the right of the road, one more to the left. Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the left about 100 metres to reach the crag.

P

Caimari P 2 1 2 1 V P M

3 1 2 M P

Selva

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20

1 3 2 1 V M P

Direction Campanet

5.2. Hairpin Wall

N 39 46.734´ EO 02 53.883´ East 25 m. Hairpin bend on road

9 1. Curving Groove 2. Central 3. Right 4. The hard one 5. The Blob 6. The Blob right-hand 7. The Blob indirect 8. Pocket 9. Pocket Right 10. Poor

5 5+ 5 7a 6c 6b 5+ 6a+ 6a 6b+

6

10 8, 9

1

23

4

5, 6

7


© coronn.com

Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about 200 meters you will pass a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend, continue on a well marked footpath signpost for “Santuari de LLUC” and you reach the crag after about 300 metres. Muro the Caimari ; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is on to the right of the road, one more to the left. Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the left about 100 metres to reach the crag.

P

Caimari P 2 1 2 1 V M P

3 1 2 M P

Selva

1 3 2 1 V P M

Direction Campanet

1. Nosferatu 2. Paparazzi 3. Transfuga 4. Suquet 5. A la Fresca 6. Mantis 7. Lucas

5.3. Muro de Caimari

East 20 m.

1

2

3

4

5

6 7

8

9

10

6c 6b+ 6b+ 6b 6a 6a 6b

8. Mescalina 9. El Calvario del Enano 10.. Dos 10 Dos Bid Bided edos os y un De Dest stin ino o 11. Doctor Maligno 12. Capitan Gotera 13. El Sonido de la Gaita 14. Last route

11 12

13


© coronn.com

Drive to Inca and then take road 710 towards "Selva" and "Caimari". The area has three crags. Les Perxes; To get there, park your car at the outskirts of Caimari as you are leaving the village, then continue by foot on the road signposted to "Col dés Barraca". After about about 200 meters meters you will pass pass a 7km post on the right. Two tracks leads to the left at that point. Take the second one and after 200 meters the crag will be on your left. Hairpin Wall; Continue with car out of Caimari, park on a big car park in the first hairpin bend, continue on a well marked footpath signpost for “Santuari de LLUC” and you reach the crag after about 300 metres. Muro the Caimari; Continue from Caimari and pass three hairpin bends, before the fourth hairpin bend, park on a laybay, there is on to the right of the road, one more to the left. Continue by foot. Walk up to the forth hairpin bend, cross a fenceusing a stile and then direct follow a small track to the left about 100 metres to reach the crag.

6b 6c 6c+ 6c + 7b 6c+ 6b ?

14

P

Caimari P 2 1 2 1 V M P

3 1 2 M P

Selva

1 3 2 1 V M P

Direction Campanet

6. Alaró, Roadmap

P

6.1.


Drive to Alaró. As with all villages on Mallorca this one is congested but if you find and follow the signposts to "Castillo de Alaró" you will find the narrow road with many hairpins that leads you to the village (a couple of houses). Next to the restaurant you will find a big car park and the long and step walk from here to the crag is recommended. Please don’t use the road that leads from the Restaurant towards the crag, walk back and take the track instead. It is also possible to continue on a small rough road that turns of to the left just before the restaurant and which leads to a parking spot closer to the crag. Extraordinarily beautiful scenery and a amazing crag make Alaró a special place. Bring lots of water. On the top of the crag you will find a Chapel and a small restaurant where you can buy lunch, refreshments or some chocolate. .

Don’t use this part of the road!

P

Restaurant

l o j u P

e l l e C a l

C . d e P u i g

1 0 - 2 M P

d e

1 - 2 1 P M

Alaró

© coronn.com

6.2.

P M - V - 2 0 2 - 2

6.3.

Information that we have from a Spanish web site; Castell d’Alaro is an entirely private property. prope rty. Ask for prior permission to climb on climb on [email protected]. It is essential that an agreed line is taken up to the rock and that t hat it is agreed that the owners are not responsible in case of an accident. Send name, passport number and address for all climbers. Send a telephone number and give the dates that you will be climbing here. Bring your passport when you go to Alaró.

6.1. Alaró

West 30 m.

1

2 3 4

5

6

7

8

9

10

13

11 12

1. Glue-ins 2. ? 3. ? 4. ? 5. ? 6. Still a project? 7. Esteban 8. Amigos Para Siempre?

© coronn.com

7b+ 7b 7a 6c 6a 7b 7b+ 7c+

9. Foam party 10. Muérete Ya! 11. Project 12. Zatropeck 13. Old bolts 14. Aferra el Tul 15. Mata Guiris 16. No Res

15 16 14

17

7c 7c ? 7c 7b 6c 7a+ 7a+

18

19

20

22 21

17. Frit 18. Sobrassada 19. Bulge by-pass 20. :)Snowboard 21. Fido-dido 22. Vagon roll 23. Las Mallas de Cristo 24. Hola qué Tal

6a 5 6a+ 5+ 6a 4+ 5 6a

23 24

6.2. Alaró

West 25 m. Multi-pitch up to 70 m. l e

h i s d w e

e t s

s e s s n l n e

i a a S t

6 7

8

10

1 2

3

4

© coronn.com

5, 6, 7

9,10

1. ? 2. ? 3. Three-pitcher 4. Lute 5. Superchorrera access 6. Superchorrera 7. XTR 8. Therapy 9. Sànchez 10. Magnum

5a 6b 6c, 6c, 6b 7a 6a 7b 7a+ 7b ? 7c, 6a, 6b

c o b r a

6.3. Alaró

West 30 m.

1. ? 2. ? 3. ? 4. Hob nops 5. Buf! 6. Top Pa Ti 7. Clonción 8. Pilar 9. Project 10. ? 11. ? 12. ? 13. ? 14. Pincha Uvas 15. Kiko 16. Xavier 17. Lone 7c

3

4

8

6

7

8

9

1 and 2

10

© coronn.com

11

12

13

14

15 16 and 17

6b 6c 8a 6c+ 7a 7a+ 7b 7b ? 6c 6b+ 6c 6a+ 5+, 7b+ 6a 7a+ 7c


7.1. Fraguel

North-West 30 m.

10

26 18 17 19 15 16 1112 13 8

3

4

Route 1 and 2

7 6 5 1. Left pillar 2. Pastel de Ochoce 3. Ochobe Mas 4. Vuit se mes 5. Ojo Climico 6. 666 7. Tabasco 8. Harissa 9. Pink Panther

25

21 20

Drive from Bunyola in the direction of Santa Maria. Turn left as you leave the village, about 200 meters before a bar on the your left-hand side of the road. Follow this road, which at times is of poor standard, through many hairpin bends. Park on the side of the road just after you have passed a 5 km post. Follow the track, turn left into the bushes. Cross a charcoal pit and continue. Hold right and use the rope to scramble down. Finally turn right and follow the track to the crag.

24 22

23

14

9, 10

© coronn.com

6a 6a 6b 6a 6c+, 6c 6b+, 6c 7a+ 7b 6a+

10. El Terrat 11. Caca de Colores 12. Rosa de Sanatorio 13. Fakir 14. Flake and Groove 15. Psycho Killer 16. Jungle hop 17. Salpicón de Menisco 18. Solo Sex 19. Orange Scoop Right 20. Grey streak 21. Goo Goo Mack 22. Le Gorille a une Bonne Mine 23. Amnesia 24. Football fan 25. Shabada 26. Ramadán

6b 7a+ 7b+ 6c 5+ 6c+ 7a+ 8a 8a 8b+ 8b 8a 7c 8b+ 8a 8a+ 8a

0 2 1 M P 1 1 7 C

Bunyola

2 0 2 M P

Direction Santa Maria

P

5 km post

7.2. Fraguel

North-West 30 m.

30 How to find the crag:

39

27

28 29,31 32 33 34 35 30

27. Project 28. French kiss 29. Terre d’Adventure 30. Terre d’Adventure Plus 31. Fes lo que Puguis 32. Miss Palma 33. Bodo dodo 34. Humanoide 35. No name 36. Pantano boas

36 37

? 8b 7b+ 8a 7b 7b+ 6c+,7b+, 8c+ 8a+ 8b+ 7c+

44

38 39, 40

41 42

43, 44

37. Miguel and the test tube babies 38. Aloha from Hell 39. Glasnost 40. Tête de Pene 41. El último Vals 42. Rock punk 43. Cuencamelo 44. On es l’avi 45. Pastanaga Punyetera 46. Setebe el Plumero 47. Juan Palomo

45

46

7c+ 7c 7b 7c+ 7c+ 7c+ 7c 7b+ 8a 7b+ 8a

47


0 2 1 M P 1 1 7 C

Bunyola

2 0 2 M P

© coronn.com


P

5 km post

7.3. Fraguel

North-West 20 m.

52

53

54

55

56

57

58 Bunyola, view from the summit of Alqueria

51 48

49

50

48. Cotorrot 49. Cous-Cous 50. Esto no es Calvià 51. Sementir 52. Comando Rasta 53. Hard finish 54. Peep show’s Garriga 55. Marmade 56. Tofol 57. Churro Pino 58. Chris line

7c+ 6c 6b+ 6a+ 6a 6b+ 7b+ 7b 6b+ 6a 4+

© coronn.com



0 2 1 M P 1 1 7 C

Bunyola

2 0 2 M P


P

5 km post

8. Es Queixal

North-West 20 m. Multi pitch 80 m.

Restaurant

P P

Es Queixal The routes are, from left to right: 1. Es Es qu quei eix xal cor corc cat 2. Sa travessa des Queixal 3. Gela Gelatt i Desr Desrinyo inyonat nat 4. Jose’s show 5. Pepa Pattisier 6. Rintintín 7. Santas Pascuas 8. Ca Cant nta a y no no LLo LLore res s

6a+ a+x x3 6b 6a+ 7a+ 6c 6b 5+ 6a

At the top/left-hand side (SouthWest) there is three short routes, from left to right; 1. Los Los tube berrcul ulo osos 2. Es Mirador 3. Id Idó ó a qu què è Esp Esper eres es

© coronn.com

5+ 5+ 6a+ 6a +


From Gorg Blau (see crag 9.)and the Bar in the crossroad. Follow signpost for Cala Tuent/Sa Calobra. After a road with endless hairpins on a narrow road you finally arrives to Cala Tuent and the restaurant. Take a long walk, after you have passed the Villa S’Avenc, follow a vague or invisible track in the direction of the Col to the right side of Es Queixal. Scramble up the steep slope to reach the crag. A beautiful crag, and a nice atmosphere but it is a very long trip for 8 routes. Take the Bus? When we visit the area a tourist bus on it’s way from Sa Calobra was laying in a steep sloop beside the road!

How to find the crags:

9. Gorg Blau, Keymap

On the road from Sóller to Port de Sóller you will find a road to the right with signpost for Lluc/Pollença. Follow this road, C-710, winding up in the direction of Serre de Torrelles. As you reach the first tunnel, at a sightseeing point named Coll the Pulg Major you will find the first of these crag, C’an Nyic. Park just before the tunnel and follow a track up to the crag (to the left). Continue on the same road, pass a couple of lakes and another tunnel. As you arrive to another lake where the road runs just beside the lake to its end where you will find a car park just before the tunnel you find the second crag, S’Aigo Blava. We don’t have any Topos or route information on this one but the routes are hard

1 1 7 C

0 7 1 C

C 7 71 0

Sóller

Direction Sa Calobra

M A - 2 1 4 1

Bar

on a step crag. To reach the crag, park, continue on the road for the dam (restricted area) and follow a vague track to crag. The picture is taken from the car park. To find the last crag, the main sectors of Gorg Blau, continue trough the tunnel, after about 6700 metres you will arrive to a Bar and a big aqueduct over the road. Park on the opposite side of the bar on a big lay-by to a gravelled road that leads to the crags. Walk along the fence and pass this on the left side and then continue on the gravelled road (restricted area). You can also continue on the road in the direction of Lluc, in the first bend to the left, turn right and follow a track direct up to a visible beautiful track.

Direction Lluc

P

4 1 - 2 1 M A

© coronn.com

P Embassament das Gorg Blau

Direction Sóller

The crag S’Aigo Blava, we don’t have any information about the route names or grades.

9.1. Gorg Blau, Es Torrente

East 30 m.

18

15

7

8 9 10

11 12 13 14

1

2 3 4

1. Aixo es L’Habana 2. The blank wall 3. Estreny els Dits 4. Lolas 5. Only for women 6. Luisa en la Repisa 7. Luisa me Avisa 8. Sa Primavera 9. Akkupunktur

© coronn.com

5

6, 7

6b+ ? 7b 6c+ 6b+ 5 6a 6c+ 7a+

10. La Noche me Confunde 11. Ni Guibo Ni Bloco 12. Na Taca 13. Sa Festa 14. Natiu 15. S’Entreforc 16. Mr. Magu 17. Karakorum 18. Sóliva

7b 7c+ 8a 7c 8b 8b+ 8a+ 7c 8b

16

17

9.2. Plaques

West, North-West 30 m.

3

4

5 67

11 8

12

9 10

1

2, 3 1. Tuinki yunki 2. Joan Petit 3. Sa Canal 4. Fill de Puta 5. ? 6. Farina de Força 7. Chiringuito 8. S’Escorpi

© coronn.com

7c 6b+ 6b 7a 7a+ 7b 6c+ 6b+

9. Sa Taranta 10. Mala Llet Forastera 11. ? 12. Mort de Fam 13. Parkinson 14. ? 15. Hay, Hay! 16. ?

7b+ 8a 7a 7a+ 6c 6b+ 7c+ 4

13 14 15 16

9.3. Plaques and des Cable

West, North-West 30 m.

26

23

29 10 m

17 19 20 21 16

22, 23

27

18

24 25

17. ? 18. Gueropa 19. Airbus 20. ? 21. Bart Simpson 22. Lisa Limson 23. ? 24. Project

© coronn.com

7a 7a 7b 7c 7b 6b+ 5 ?

25. Chill Out 26. Gorg Blau 27. Project 28. La Misión 29. Tot és.com 30. Sa Fosca 31. No Badis 32. Long Beach

7a, 8a+ 7a,7b+,7c+ ? 7a, 8b+ 8b+, ? 7a, 8c 6c+, 8b+ 8a+

28 30 31

32

Above; Left, view from Ermita de Beetlem, Right, Beach, Palma. Under; Under; Left, view from car park to Betlem, Right, Puig de Garrafa

Above; Left, beautiful crag, Right, view from El Calo. Under; Left, view from Miradordés Columet, Right, Sa Gubia, Princesa

10. C’an Nyic

N 39 47.500´ EO 02 46.568´ North-West 30 m.

40 meter to the left.

1 1. Bernadi Company 2. Nycinyatos 3. Borinot 4. Ho Passam Pillo 5. Bona Nyic 6. Molins de Paper 7. Tutup 8. Na Faresta 9. S'Horabaixa

2

3 4

R o u t e

Tunnel 10 t o o 13

5

6c+ 4+ 6c 7a+ 6a+ 6b 6c 7b+ 7c

On the way from car park to the crag, from left to the right; 10. Agent Orange 8a+ 11. Impossible ? 12. Thin Seam 7b 13. Max Cady 7c

© coronn.com

P P

6 7 Direction Sóller

8 9

1 1 7 C


Drive along the 710 from Sóller in the direction of Pollença. After 10 km you will reach the first tunnel. Park before reaching the tunnel. Follow a track up to the left of the tunnel to reach the crag. On the way up to the crag you will pass four routes that are not on this TOPO. Leave your car open, there have been breakins.

C 7 71 0

0 7 1 C

Sóller

11. Port Sóller

Hotel

N 39 48.207´ EO 02 41.698´ North-West 30 m. 18

Cave Cova des Cingles, far left. 15

21

4 16

5 6 150 meters

1

2

78

9 10

11

12 13

14,15

17, 18

19 20, 21

50 meters

3,4,5

1. Miguelin el politoxicómano 2. Cristo el transexual 3. Repoman 4. Alliens 5. El folla-guris 6. Doris 7. La Machado 8. Blobland 9 .Bon vi 10 .Els salvatges

22 23

6c 7a 8a 6b 6a 7b 7c 6c 6a 6b

11. Sun 12. Sea 13. Sand 14. Dit I Fet 15. Virgin 16. ? 17. Fantomas 18. Ficalito 19. Super 3 20. Ja son five

6c 6b 6a 7a 8a+ ? 7b 7c 7b 6c+

21. Babu Mac 22. Wall left 23. Wall right 24. Picnic left 25. Picnic 26. Picnic centre 27. Picnic right

6b+ 6c 6b 6c 6b+ 6c 7a

26 25 27

24

P


© coronn.com

On the road from Palma to Sóller you can choose to take a tunnel to save time, the cost for this is Euro 4.25 (2007) single way! Drive in to Port Sóller and follow the seafront. The "main" road splits into a wider road and two "No entry" signes appear. Turn sharp right (onto “Cami de Cingle”) and take the narrow road up the hill. Shortly after the bar on your left there is a new luxurious hotel. Park outside the bar and take the footpath down to the crag.

Port Sóller The bay

12.1. Valldemossa, Roadside

South, South-West 15 m. 12.3. 12.2.

P

12.4.

12.1.

P M V 1 1 3 - 1

Road

5

4

1. Izqauierdo (not on the TOPO) 2. Centro (not on the TOPO) 3. Derecho (not on the TOPO) 4. Zurdo 5. Rompededos 6. Pérfido Encanto 7. Triplet Derecho 8. Recto Cresta 9. Derecho Castilla

4 4 4 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6b 5+ 6b

© coronn.com

6

7

8

9

Road


Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.

Port d'Valldemossa (”Se Marina”)

P M V 1 1 3 - 1

C 7 1 0

1 1 1 P M

Valldemossa

12.2. Valldemossa

South-West 25 m.

6

4

1 2

1. Left Edge 2. Kiko 3. Scooped Runnel 4. Project 5. Palmolive 6. Intrépido 7. Short crack 8. Via des Clau 9. El Jubilado 10. Suphi 11. Fito 12. El Jubilado direct 13. Pepa 14. Pepino 15. Sostre den Burot 16. So Sostre de den Bu Burot di direct 17. Dali

14

3, 4 6b 6b 6b ? 7b 6c 7a 6b 5 6a 6b+ 6b+ 6a+ 6b+ 6c+ 7a+ 5+

© coronn.com

5, 6

7 8

P

9

13, 10 11 12 14

15 16 17

Road


Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately 1 km further the view opens and you can see the sea. The crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.


P M V 1 1 3 - 1

C 7 1 0

1 1 1 P M

Valldemossa

12.3. Valldemossa

South-West 30 m. 12.3.

10 3

12.2.

P

12.4.

5 12.1.

3,4 5,6 1

7

8

2

1. Scoop left 2. Rusty 3. Bulging Wall 4. Central flake 5. Vall-de-mega 6. Wall Eliminate 7. Chimenea 8. Central right 9. Spanky 10. Lanky 11. Average

7b 7c 7c 6b+ 7a 7a+ 5+ 6b+ 6a 6a 6b+

9 10 11 12

13

12. Shorty 13. Poor Groove 14. Thin Wall 15. Jarcha 16. Why not 17. The crack 18. Poor Eliminate 19. Arroz con Leche 20. Right-hand crack 21. Kirsten 22. Kirsten II

14 15

20

21 22

16,18, 17 19

P M V 1 1 3 - 1

6a 7a+ 6c+ 6b+ 6c+ 6c 7a 6c 6b+ 5+ 5+


© coronn.com

Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately Approxima tely 1 km km further the view opens and you can see see the sea. sea. The crags crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.


P M V 1 1 3 - 1

C 7 1 0

1 1 1 P M

Valldemossa

12.4. Valldemossa

South-West 20 m.

1. Roof route left 2. Roof route right 3. Fisura 4. Under Waikiki 5. Waikiki 6. Chimenea

7a 6c+ 5 6c+ 7b 6a

1 2 3 4

5

6


© coronn.com

Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. From Valldemossa, drive towards the coast, pass the first right turn, the 710 towards Sóller, and take the next turning to the right, signposted Port d'Valldemossa. Approximately Approxima tely 1 km km further the view opens and you can see see the sea. sea. The crags crags are alongside the road, in fact, you drive under some of them. Park in a lay-bay just after the main crag. Walk back 150 meters to reach this crag. On the way, you pass a small crag with routes numbered 1,2 and 3, which are not included in this TOPO. We recommend the restaurant in Port d'Valldemossa.


P M V 1 1 3 - 1

C 7 1 0

1 1 1 P M

Valldemossa

13.1. S’estrét

N 39 41.536´ EO 02 37.942´ North 25 m.

15 6 17, 18 14, 15

The left hand side of the crag collapsed in January 2005. The rock fall destroyed all routes. 6 5 20 19 18 17

23

1 2 1. Rock-fall arete 2. Head Hunter 3. Tatoo 4. Defcon One 5. Si yo fuera presidente 6. Odio a cobi 7. Txino tzapa 8. El sudaca 9. Tetrix

? 8a+ 8a,8b+ 8a 7b+ 7b 8a 7a+ 7c+

10. Buñocracia 11. Staples 12. Casi 13. Maximo Riesgo 14. La Gigante Verde 15. Directe Verde 16. Bomber Torrat 17. Left line 18. Right line

3

4 6b+ ? 7c 7c 7a 7a+ 7a+ 6c 5

Three more routes to the left of the rockfall, from left to right, 8a, 7b+ and a project.

© coronn.com

5

13 12 11 10

6 7, 9 10 8

8

12

13 13.2.

11

16

T o r r e Direction n t Valldemossa d e V a l l d e m o s s a

13.1.


Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km milestone by the roadside. On the left you will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry riverbed (3,2 km before Valldemossa). Park here and follow a track through the trees. You will pass some small bouldering crags (grades is not covered in the Topos) after 250 metres, turn left after these and make your way to the crag. The crag is an old quarry and the routes are therefore numbered which makes route finding easy. Many routes are chipped.

P 1 1 1 M P

13.3. 13.4. Direction S'Egleita

13.3. S’estrét, Cuarentón

West 25 m. 13.2.



Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km milestone by the roadside. On the left you will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry riverbed (3,2 km before Valldemossa). Park here, cross the road and follow a track just beside the river down to the crags.

13.1. P 1 1 1 M P

13.3. 13.4. 10

14

Direction S'Egleita

4

1 2 3

5 6

78

9

10, 11 12 13, 14

© coronn.com

1. Mexicans forever 2. Kum Laude 3. ? 4. Busibus 5. Red Stain 6. Part Forana 7. Movimiento Sexy 8. Tight slab 9. Menage à Trois 10. Eliminate 11. Virgin 12. Las Cagao 13. ? 14. ?

6c 7a+ ? 6c+ 6b+ 5+ 5+ 6a 6a+ 5+ 6a 5 5 5

13.4. S’estrét

Sector Mario, Pipe and Pasión N 39 41.454´ EO 02 38.175´ West 30 m. 1

2

1. Mario Moreno II 2. Mario Moreno 3. Zarzamora 4. ? 5. ? 6. ? 7. Pezón 8. Quarried Wall

5

45

3 4+ 5 4+ 4+ 5 4+ 5+ 5+

7 8

6

20 m.

13.2.


13.1. P How to find the crag:

1 2 3

4

© coronn.com

5, 6 1. El Bandido de un Brazo 2. El Culo 3. Con el Culo al Aire 4. Variant 5. Pasión interminable 6. Pasión Oculta

6a 5 5+ 5+ 5 4+

Drive from Palma in the direction of Valldemossa. 4 km after you have passed the village of S'Egleita you pass a 14km milestone by the roadside. On the left you will find a lay-bay close to a bridge over a dry riverbed (3,2 km before Valldemossa). Park here, cross the road and follow a track just beside the river down to the crags. Sector Mario is the first one you reach with three routes. Shortly after the Pipe sector with for more routes and finally, slightly up behind Pipe, the sector Pasión with five routes.

1 1 1 M P

13.3. 13.4. Direction S'Egleita

14. Sa Gubia, Keymap How to find the crag:

Drive from Palma in the direction of Sóller on the C711. You will pass Palmanola, and 4 km after a crossroad leads to Bunyola on your right. Park there, by a Restaurant "Can Penasso". Cross the road just left, and follow the small road on the other side. You will pass a car park which shouldn't be used since the climbing in Sa Gubia could be stoped if climbers do so. Continue, pass two gates and when a dry river bed turns up cross that one and then follow a track to the right next to the river bed to the crag. Track to the summit of Alqueria (609 m)

Direction Sóller 14.5.

14.2.

14.3.

14.4. 14.1.

1 1 7 C

Restaurant Can Penasso

T o r r e n t d e S ’ A l q u a t

L a B i a n c a

Direction Palma

© coronn.com

Bunyola P

Don't use this Don't footpath !!

1 0 - 2 M P

U T o s u r r a e n l l t d y

a e d S r ’ y A r l iv q e u a r b t e d L a B i a n c a

Don't use this footpath !!

14.1.1. Sa Gubia

Left part of Pares dels Coloms South-East 40 m.

10

6 4

5 Route number 1 to 3

7 8 9, 10

14 15 11 12

13

(no TOPO)

1 Pecho lata (no TOPO) 2 Amor Brujo (no TOPO) 3 Papa Moreno (no TOPO) 4 Peur impossible 5 Es Poal 6 Esto no es Quinto 7 Sal de arenal 8 Tres menos cuarto 9 Front 242 10 Algo salvage

© coronn.com

6b+ 6b,6a+ 6b 5,7a 6b 7a+ 6c 7b+ 7b+ 6b

11 Piñón Fijo 12 Silo sé no vengo 13 Perque triunfin els cannalas 14 Pesadilla final 15 Peladora

7b+ 6c 6b+ 6a+ 6c

16. Humi 17. Mes rapit suc el vent 18. Pellojo de tiburon 19.. Se 19 Seis is pe pela lass 20. Decadencia corporal 21. Comechocos 22. Tao 23. Leather face

14.1.2. Sa Gubia

Right part of Pares dels Coloms South-East 40 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m.

28 29 31

26

16

24

17 18 19

20 21

22 23

© coronn.com

27 28 30 25, 26

6a+ 6a 7a 6a,6 6a ,6cc 6c,7b+ 6b+ 6b,6c+ 7a+,6c+

24. Pasteles de Isabel 25. Gay power 26. Vol de nuit 27. Tia melis 28. Estricnina 29. Chungui chunguez 30. Danzomania 31. Guatón

7b,6c+ 7a+ 6b 6a, 6a 5, 5+,5 5,6c 5+,6a+,6a+ 5+,6a

1. Gubia normal

14.2. Sa Gubia

2. Quan es fa Fec 3. Gubia variante 4. Chitas marchitas 5. Charly Danone 6. Jódete y Baila 7. Fill de ric 8. Puta Perro 9. La Ley del Deseo 10. Sonrisa vertical 11. The master 12. Polla Bopa 13. Mejico Lindo 14. Variant 15. ? 16. ? 17. Oasis (38 m!) 18. ? 19. Via des los Bomberos 20. Hambre Eterna 21. Princessa 22. Variant 23. Placa Aspera 24. Tierra al Reves 25. Moco de Pravo 26. Foracorda 27. Idem 28. De Gorrones hasta los Cojones 29. Steep Groove 30. Sexo Debil

Gubia Normal, Bomberos, Princesa, Español West, North-West Multi pitch up to 200 m.

28 26 29 13

2

12

24

18

25

27

37

1,2

3 4

5 6

7

8

9, 10

1114

15

18,20 17 16 19

21 22

23

38

30 31 32 33

34

35

41

36

39

© coronn.com

40

31. Easy slab 32. Cannabis variant 33. Cannabis in Vitro 34. Pataje Español 35. El jardin de la Abuela 36. Tantum Ergo 37. Mi pichina 38. Miju 39. Caperucita Roja 40. Groove 41. Variant

2+,4+,3+, 3+, 4+,3,3 2+,5,5,5 4+ 6b+ 7a+ 6b+ 6a 6a+ 5,5,4+,5 5,6a 5+,6a 5+,6a 5+,6a+ 5 4+,6a 4+,6a 6a+ 6c 6a,6a+, 6a,6b 6b 6a,6c,5,6a,5 6b+,6a 6a+ 6a+ 7b+ 8b 7b+ 8a 7a 4,6a+,6b+, 6b,6b 4 4 4 4+ 5 4+ 7b 7b+ 6b 6a 6b

1. To Kiski'm'toca 2. Fina y Segura 3. Pringa mete el dedo 4. La isla Bonita 5. Variant 6. Placa Nuevo 7. Franceces 8. Phantasmagoria 9. Bongo Bongo 10. Gigolo 11. Why! 12. Cortocircuito 13. Zaragüay 14. Agáratte Maldito

14.3. Sa Gubia

Isla Bonita, Why South Multi pitch up to 90 m.

4 5

6c+ 6b 6b 6b+,4,6a+ 6a 5+,6b 6a,5,6c 7a+ 7a+ 7b 6b+ 6b 6a 7b+

14

10

13

1

2

34

5 6 7

8

© coronn.com

8 9 10, 11

12, 13


14.4. Sa Gubia

N 39 41.594´ EO 02 40.396´

Sector Exalibur and Silicona South 30 m. Multi pitch up to 60 m. 1. KGB 2. Na Guarra 3. Excalibur 4. No Haces más Grado porque Eres Enado 5. Trampera Matinera 6. Bofetadas de Placer 7. Ópera prima 8. Charismatic 9. Hot consuela 10. Horrible Belleza 11. Ingleses

10

6c+ 6a 6a,6a,6b

10 11

6c+ 6b 7b+ 6a+ 6c 6c+ 7a 6b+

3

7

6

4

78

9, 10, 11

5 8

9

2

6 2

3, 4, 7 5

11

1

© coronn.com

1

3

4 Silicona

1. Hawaii 5-0 2. Silicona 3. Lulu 4. Proteina vegetal 5. Totom fa el que Vol 6. Resaca 7. Gran Pis 8. Rustic Pogo 9. ? 10. Familia iscariote 11. Familia variante

4+ 6b+ 6a+ 6a 6a+ 6a+ 6b 6b+ 6a+ 6a 6b

14.5. Sa Gubia, Cara Oeste 1. Bush rit et Massacre 2. Interval training 3. Gato Negro 4. Scaladores en perdición 5. Lluvia providencial 6. Esc scal alad ador ores es en la Ni Nieb ebla la 7. Lo Los co colores de de la la Ca Caliza 8. Le Lap Lapin in en déc décompo omposit sition ion 9. Vo Voya yage gess dan danss l’e l’eau au de .. .... 10. Tres estrellas

N 39 41.822´ EO 02 40.414´ West Multi pitch up to 100 m.

1

2

3

7a+ 7a+ 7a+ 7c 7a+,7b 6b,6 6b ,6cc+, +,6b 6b+, +,6c 6c+ + 7b, b,7 7b,7a+,6c+ 6b,7b,7 6b,7 b,7c/A c/Ao o or or 8a,7 8a,7a+ a+ 7c/8 7c /8a, a,7b 7b,7 ,7c/ c/8a 8a,7 ,7a a 5,7c,7c,7a

4 5

6 7 8

© coronn.com

9 10

View over Cara Oeste. A long approach, best way is to take the road that leads to the summit of Alqueria (pass the bar by foot and continue about 1 km, then turn left and follow a gravelled road). The wall is great, and there is hundreds of Tufas. However, since the wall is very big, we have marked black field with grey colour since they help you best to find the routes. The approach take 1 to 1,5 hours if you move fast.


15. Can Ortigues

Drive from Andratx on road C-710 in the direction of Estellencs, Sóller. Pass a 103 kilometres post just after a hairpin bend and after the next hairpin, park on a big lay-bay. The crag is just above the laybay but continue by foot about 50 metres down the road and you will find a good track to reach the track.

N 39 37.465´ EO 02 25.465´ West 25 m.

11

9

5

3

4

1,2. 25 metres.

© coronn.com

6 7

8, 9

10, 12 11

13

14 15 16

17

1. Los abajo firmantes 2. Balrog 3. No siento las Piernas 4. Hobbiton 5. Quin Clau 6. Ultimos Dias de la vítima 7. Regina 8. Barbol 9. La Ley de la Frontera 10. La Tuya y la mia 11. Armageddon 12. ? 13. Puercoespin 14. Tierra Media 15. Club Privado, Project 16. Guancho 17. ? 18. Area de Servicio

18 6a+ 6b+ 6a+ 4 5c 6b 7a 5+ 5+ 6a 6a 5 6a 6c ? 6c ? 4+

0 1 7 C

P

103 km

16.1. Piug de Garrafa

N 39 33.681´ EO 02 25.478´

Andratx

North-West 20 m.

Coll D’Andritxol

3

1

2, 3

Signpost for Port d’Andratx, Sant Elm

4 5

1. Lucas 2. Colmena 3. Ella ya no vive aqui 4. Front 5. Cuatre Pichos 6. ? 7. ? 8. The crack

6a+ 6b+ 6a+ 6c 6b ? ? 6c+

© coronn.com

6 7

8

30-40 metres to 16.2.

16.1.


Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on road PM-1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs for Andratx. About 2-2,5 kilometres after the second tunnel, at Coll d’Andritxol, a smaller asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite direction) just before a signpost for Port d’Andratx /Sant Elm. Turn right and follow this road for 100 metres. Park out of the road since large lorries is passing for fetching water in the big reservoir just by the road side. From here you will see the crags. Pass a fence just to the right of the gate and follow a gravelled road to its end. Take the track to the left for 16.1. and 16.2., to the right for 16.3. and 16.4.

16.2.

P

16.3.

P P

16.4.


North-West 20 m.

Andratx

Coll D’Andritxol

19 9 10

11 12 13 14

9. Dona Simena 10. Polvaron 11. Ilegales 12. Legado 13. Cala Bruix 14. ? 15. ? 16. El Canto del Loco 17. Camino al Infierno 18. Bufon 19. Endemicus 20. Vampiro 21. Vampiresa 22. Macaco 23. Puta girl 24. Erectus

15 5 6a 7a+ 7b 6a 7a 6b+ 6c 7b 6b 6c 6b+ 6b 6a 6a+

© coronn.com

16

20

21

22


23

17 18

24

16.1.


Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on road PM1. Continue on Ma-1C and follow signs for Andratx. About 2-2,5 kilometres after the second tunnel, at Coll d’Andritxol, a smaller asphalt road turns sharp right (in opposite direction) just before a signpost for Port d’Andratx /Sant Elm. Turn right and follow this road for 100 metres. Park out of the road since large lorries is passing for fetching water in the big reservoir just by the road side. From here you will see the crags. Pass a fence just to the right of the gate and follow a gravelled road to its end. Take the track to the left for 16.1. and 16.2., to the right for 16.3. and 16.4.

16.2.

P

16.3.

P P

16.4.


N 39 33.586´ EO 02 25.528´

Andratx

North-West 25 m.

4 Coll D’Andritxol

4, 5 1

10

6

1. Alacran 2. Teresetes 3. Thin Wall 4. ? 5. Chorrera 6. ? 7. ? 8. Chúpamela 9. Chúpamela Derecha 10. Orange Recess 11. ? 12. ? 13. Soledad 14. Dios No Puedo

5+ 6b+ 7b 7c 7a 7b 7b+ 6b+ 6a 8a+ 7c 7b 6c 6b

© coronn.com

11 12

2 3 7 8


13

14

Track to 16.4.

16.1.

9



16.2.

P

16.3.

P P

16.4.


N 39 33.554´ EO 02 25.652´

Andratx

South 25 m.

Coll D’Andritxol

1

2

1. Lúcifer 2. Metállica 3. Snoopy 4. Mafalda 5. Scooby Doo 6. ? 7. The Wall 8. ? 9. ? 10. Stairway to Heaven

6a 6a 5 5 6a 4 5+ 4+ 4+ 6b+

© coronn.com

3

4

5

6

7

8


9 16.1.

10, further right



16.2.

P

16.3.

P P

16.4.

17. Santa Ponça

Direction Andratx

N 39 30.478´ EO 02 28.962´ 1, 2 3

North, North-West 20 m.

6

Ma-1

Direction Palma

How to find the crag: e u m J a e y R l d e d a i d e n A v a ç n o P a t n a S

9 1

2 P

3

4

3 1. Flake route 2. Variant 3. ? 4. ? 5. ? 6. ? 7. ? (Neads gear ) 8. The scoop 9. ?

6a 6b+ 7b 7a+ 7a+ 6c+ 6a 7b 7b+

© coronn.com

5

6 7 8, 9 Av enida d Av de e N ova

P P

Santa P o n ç a

School

Calle de Na Morisca

Casa Pastorers

dell nid da de Aveni Av

v a o N

Drive from Palma in the direction of Andratx on road Ma-1. Turn for Santa Ponça. In the first roundabout, turn left and follow signpost for “Golf”. Continue, pass two roundabouts and in the third, turn left and park on a car park just by a school. Follow the track up to the crag that you can see from the car park.

Not the best crag, and neither a great view. If you stay in the village it can be a nice crag for the evening though.


18. Calvià

West 25 m.

21 16, 17, 18

4

1

2

5

3,4

1. ? 2. ? 3. Seman Semidesnatado 4. Vuelo sin Moto 5. Windjamer 6. No Cal Senior fiscal 7. Chanso 8. Perona 9. Tirili 10. Saque mate 11. Jota jota 12. Tu polla me enrolla 13. Batakalofis 14. Caguerra perpetua 15. Extrafina 16. ?

6b 6a 6b 6c + 6a 5+ 6a+ 6c 6b 6c 6b 6a 5+ 5+ 6a+ 5+

6 7

17. Pinchito moruno 18. El ultiomo de la fila 19. Calentura invernal 20. Primera experiensa 21. Filas pipas

© coronn.com

Drive from Palma in the direction of Calvià, in the village, take right where a signpost shows "Establishments". Continue out of the village until you just have past a section with stone walls on both sides of the road (about 2,6 km after Calvià). Park in a small small laybay on the right side of the road in a bend. Walk back 75 metres and climb over a fence. Follow the track into the wood and the valley and after approximately 700 meters you will see the crag when you stands below it. The climbing is not excelent compared with other crags on Mallorca but shadow make people chose it even though.

8

9

10 11 5+ 6a 5+ 4+ 6a+

12 13 14 15 16

P

19 20 1718

P

Calvià PM-V -101-6

19.1. El Calo de Betlem

N 39 45.598´ EO 03 19.804´ North, North-West 20 m.

19.2.

2

19.1.

7 6

2,3

1

4

5

8,9 Betlem

1. Horitous 2. Pin 3. Pon 4. Tot Disney 5. Yogui 6. Bordillo 7. Project 8. ? 9. ?

7a 6b 7b+ 7a 7a 7a ? ? ? How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

Drive the road C-712 between Artá and Can Picafort. Turn of North and follow signpost for Colónia de Sant Pere / Betlem. Continue until you reach the villa settlement of Betlem, drive trough and pass a gate and continue approximately 500 metres on a gravelled road. Park and walk on the road to the crags. If you continue about 1 kilometres from crag 19.2. you will reach a beach.

C-7 12

Artá

How to find find the crag:

19.2. El Calo de Betlem

See 19.1.

N 39 45.997´ EO 03 20.068´

20

North-West, West, South-West 20 m. 21 17

18

19.2.

19, 20

16 8

2

3

4

1. Sostre (15 m. left) 2. Joan 90 3. ? 4. ? 5. Fisura 6. Wilow 7. Juanma 8. Project

5

6

9. Canal 10. La Curta 11. Es Pasto 12. Tequila forever 13. Xupamela 14. Crozzly Wall 15. Facil 16. Almudaina 17. Moro 18. ? 19. Tot Picat 20. El Nostro projecte 21. Murto

7,8 7a 6a+ 6b 6b+ 5+ 6a 7a+ ?

© coronn.com

19.1.

6c+ 7a 6b+ 7a+ 6b 6b 5+ 6a 8a+ 6b+ 7b 6c 6c

Betlem

12 9 10 11

15 14 13

C-7 12

Artá

20.1. Ermita de Betlem

N 39 43.844´ EO 03 18.665´

P

1 route, no name, no grade

20.2.

P

20.3. 20.1.

North 20 m.

12

15

1314,

1 1. Murto 2. ? 3. ? 4. ? 5. ? 6. ? 7. ? 8. ?

7b 6b 6b+ 6b 4 6a 6b+ 7a+

15 9 10 11, 12 7 8 6 5 4 2 3

9. ? 10. Tano 11. ? 12. Los Satelites 13. Punt Roker 14. ? 15. ? 16. Lolo

6c 7a 6b+ 7b+ 7c+ 7c+ 7a 6c+

18 19 16 17

17. ? 18. ? 19. ? 20. ? 21. ? 22. ? 23. ? 24. ? 25. ?

20 21 22

23

24

25

7a 6a+ 6c+ 7c+ 6a 7a+ 7b+ 6c+ 6b

Artá


© coronn.com

Drive the road C-712 or C-715 to Artá. In the village, find your way to the centre and follow signposts for “Ermita de Betlem”. As you leave the village, drive in the direction for Ermita de Betlem for 7,3 kilometres. On a summit of a hill, before the road drops down to the Church, park on big laybys to the left or right of the road. Continue on a gravelled road (pass a gate) to the left about 4-500 metres and then you will see the crags to your right. Follow a narrow track down to the crags.

7 1 2 C - 7

20, 21

20.2.1. Ermita de Betlem

North 20 m.

20.2.

20.3. 20.1.

1. White Musk 2. Psicodelia 3. Tropical 4. Patranus 5. Lobo Estepario 6. Sometimes 7. Libido 8. Muy Mucho 9. Mata Mua

6b+ 6c+ 7b+ 7b+ 7c+ 7c+ 7c ? 7c

14 15

18 16,, 16 17

13 9 7 1

11 10

12

8

4 2 3 56

19 10. Mau Mauric ricio io en en el pai paiss el Vic Vicio io 11.. Ali 11 Alici cia a el pa pais is de la la Mali Malici cia a 12. Paranoid 13. Amapolia 14. Mazinger Z 15. Decadencia 16. Osito 17. Oso Perezoso 18. Sembrador de Collias 19. Magia

7c+ 7c+ 7c+ 8b + 7b+ 7a+ 8a+ 7b+ 8b 8c 8b Artá


© coronn.com


7 1 2 C - 7

20.2.2. Ermita de Betlem

North 20 m.

20.2.

20.3. 20.1.

20

21 22

23, 24

25

27 28

26

20.Cubalibre 21. Camino del Exceso 22. La Sombra de Cain 23. Piltrafilla 24. Septiembre Negro 25. Siniestro Total 26. Siniestro

8c 8a+ 7c+ 7c+ 8a 8b 8a+

29

30

31

32

27. Belle Epoque 28. Chin Chan 29. Plis-Plas 30. Alquaeda 31. Wild widow 32. Frenada Mariachi

6b+ 6b+ 6a 6b 6b+ 6a Artá


© coronn.com


7 1 2 C - 7

21.1. Santanyi, left part

South 20 m.

1

2

3

7 8 9 10 1112

6

5

4

13 14 15 16

17

P

45 metres to route 18.

Tower

1. Left wing 2. Churrito y Pelete 3. Tom y Jerry 4. Ebam 5. Ebamsa 6. Commando Foracorda 7. Semen de Trigo 8. Finger killer 9. Foot-hook

6a 4+ 5 4+ 5 7a+ 6b 6c 6b+

10. El Diedro 11. Vino Tinto 12. Tapas 13. Blame it on the rain 14. Honeymoon 15. Ne Never mi mind th the bo bollocks 16. Xiscu que Relliscu 17. Tupé de Rocké

5+ 6a 6a+ 6c+ 7a 7a 6b 6c

Santanyi

Cala Santanyi

P M V 6 1 0 - 2

0 6 1 M P


© coronn.com

Drive to Santanyi and then towards "Cala Santanyi". After you have left Santanyi you should ignore the first turning signposted for Cala Santanyi and instead take the second one. Then take the first left turn and then the first right signposted for "HR Palmaria". Continue to a car park before a barrier. Walk down the road to a ruin tower, then to the right to come under the face of the crag.

Sen Móger Cala Santanyi

Cala Figuera

21.2. Santanyi, middle part

South 25 m. 26

23 20

18

19

22, 23

20,21

24

25, 26

27 P

Tower

18. Escuelar de Calor 19. Supersexi 20. Un dimanche à la companye 21. Tocino for Pepino 22. Flesh for Dani 23. Raixa 24. Comepiedras 25. Cancamos 26. Miquelis 27. La Calle de Ritmo

6b+ 7a 7a 7a 7b 7c 7b+ 7b 7b+ 7b

P M V 6 1 0 - 2

0 6 1 M P


© coronn.com

Santanyi

Cala Santanyi



Cala Figuera

21.3. Santanyi, right part

South 25 m.

46

43 35 28

29

30

33

32

31

34

36

37

38

39 40

44

45, 46

47 to 52

41 42 P

Tower

28. Psicomambo 29. La Peli 30. Cocina Ligera 31. Na c’al les Seychelles 32. Colesterol Party 33. Batchcampft 34. Evola 35. Raiworld, project 36. Calabruix 37. Posedion 38. Chuteur fou 39. Go Johnny

6c 7b 7b 7a+ 6a+ 7a+ 8a ? 8b 7b 7b+ 8a

40. Rompepiernas 41. Naranja 42. Espolón 43. Casting 44. Executive producer 45. Cumosho 46. Screenplay 47. Postal service 48. Tijuana 49. Sa des Plastics 50. Welcome to Paradise 51. Perestroica 52. Costa Sud

7a 7a 6c 6b+ 6c+ 6c+ 6c 7a+ 8a+ 7b+ 7b+ 8? 6b+


© coronn.com

Santanyi

Cala Santanyi


P M V 6 1 0 - 2

0 6 1 M P


Cala Figuera


22.1. Cala Magraner

South 20 m.

13

10

8

10, 11 5 1

2 3

4

6

7, 8

1. Un tio Conflictiu 2. Wall and Bulge 3. ? 4. Imagine 5. TNT 6. Dingo 7. Tufa Big 8. Sand bag 9. Project 10. Delicatessan 11. Delicatessan right hand 12. Right-hand roof 1 13. Right-hand roof 2

12, 13

Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost “Agriturismo”). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.

9 Direction Manacor

7a 7c+ 7c+ 7c 8a 7c+ 7b+ 7b+ 7a+ ? 7b 7a 7b

Stone wall

4 1 0 4 V M P

P

Porto Cristo

P

© coronn.com Calas de Mallorca


22.2. Cala Magraner

South 16 m.

14

15 16

17

19 20 18 14. First wall 15. The crack 16. Crack Eliminate 17.. Al lo 17 loro ro Ma Mano nolo lo (t (top op-r -rop ope) e) 18. Body Fatique 19. Metal Fatique 20. Liadre de Somnis 21. Retanuit 22. Sense Voler 23. Diagonal Pockets 24. Tiny 25. The big red stain 26. Tootsie 27. Mou els Peus 28. Miguelín el Travieso 29. En pas Descanse

21

22 5 6a 6a+ ? 6c 7a+ 6c 6a+ 6a 6a+ 6b 6c 6b+ 6b+ 6c 5+

23 24 25 26 27

28 29

Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where where it attaches attaches a stone wall wall (a road road turns right shortly shortly after with signpost “Agriturismo”). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.

Direction Manacor

Stone wall

4 1 0 4 V M P

P

Porto Cristo

P

Routes on the big block, from left to right; grade 5, 6a, 5

© coronn.com Calas de Mallorca

22.3. Cala Magraner

South 20 m.

40 30 30. Cave left 31. Cave right 32. Sa Nyoscia 33. Paramuero 34. Herbofilia 35.. Ja 35 Jard rdin iner erss se sens nse e fr fron onte tere ress 36. Perelló

31 32 7a+ 6c+ 6a 5+ 4 3 4+

33

34

35

41

42 43

39

36 37 38

37. Pix 37. Pixot otad ades es pe perr ses ses Ga Galt ltes es 38. Penta 39. Galiana m’Engana 40. Sa Sesta 41. Pipiricot 42. Wall and groove 43. Florinotto

6c+ 6c + 6c+ 6c 6b+ 6b+ 5+ 5+

Direction Manacor

Stone wall

4 1 0 4 V M P

P

Porto Cristo


© coronn.com coronn.com

Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost “Agriturismo”). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.

P

Calas de Mallorca

22.4. 22 .4. Cala Magraner

South 20 m.

44. Crack 45. Reachy 46. Only you 47. The Juggy one 48. Joc de Mans 49. Dangerous 50. Staples 51. Xorics 52. Repusai 53. Beachcomber 54. Ses Tres Maries 55. Asquí 56. Asulla 57. L’amo de de Baltix m’envia 58. Flotsam 59. Jetsam 60. Elvigilant de la Platja 61. Clásica 62. Ses Panxetes 63. Pilla, Pilla 64. The final line

6a 6b+ 6c+ 5+ 7a 6b 6a+ 6b 6a 6a 6a+ 6a 6b+ 6a 5+ ? 4 5 6a 5+ 6b+

47

48 44 45

59

46, 47 49

50

51

52 53 54

55 56

60

57 58

64

62 61

63

Sea

Direction Manacor

Stone wall

4 1 0 4 V M P

P

Porto Cristo


© coronn.com

Drive to Manacor and then towards "Calas de Mallorca". After about 8 km you arravie to a T- junction. Take right, continue through first one bend to the left, then one to the right. After a short drive you pass a dry river bed on your left that looks more like a big green field many times of the season. The road turns slightly to the left and then right while it becomes surrounded with trees and goes slightly up. Just there two smaller roads turn in to the left, the first with a closed small gate, the second with a larger gate (normally opened). On the right side of the road it is a large lay-bay, park here. Walk back, turn right over a wire fence just where it attaches a stone wall (a road turns right shortly after with signpost “Agriturismo”). Follow the stone wall and then continue along the track about 1 km. A beautiful place, exelent climbing near the see. Except the quite long walk it is a area ideal for families with children and the crag offers enough climing for many day's. The cave is the first crag you will come to. Further down the first of tree boulted areas to your left behind some thicket.

P

Calas de Mallorca

23. Castell de Santueri


1. ? 2. ? 3. Santueri 4. Pixes 5. Masaix 6. Apolis 7. Ra 8. Escuni Ezquera 9. Es Castell 10. Qwin Tomas 11. Munchescal 12. Picha Boba 13. Antrax 14. Sex Cannabis 15. Capitán 16. Matrix 17. Vine, Vine 18. De Debó 19. 18 de Julio 20. Can Moix 21. Sonrisa Vertical 22. Cuaraná

? ? 7c 8a 7c+ 7b+ 7c 7b 7b 6c 7a+ 8a 8a 7b, 8a 8a, 8b 8a+, 8b+, 8c 7b+ 7c+ 8a+ 7a+, 8a 7b 8b

13, 13, 14

3, 4

5

9 10 6

7

8

11

12

17, 19 20 21 22 18

15 16

Direction Manacor

1,2

Felanitx 2 P M 51

C 7 1 4


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Drive to Felanitx and then towards Santanyi. After about 3 km, turn left where a signpost gives you "Castell de Sanctueri". Drive up to the castle and park there. To the right of the steps to the castle is a steep track going down, follow that to the crag. Route number 1 and 2 ain't illustrated on this TOPO, but you pass them on your walk down to the "main" crag.

P M V 4 0 1 - 6 6

Direction Santanyi

Montserrat

Manresa

E 1 5

7 3 C E 9

Montserrat

Granollers

C 5 5

Terrassa Sabadell

Castelloli

Igualada

C 1 5

How to find the crags: Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. To reach the areas of Gorros, Sant Benet and the Campsite, turn of at exit 576. To reach Collobató, which is the starting point for Can Jorba and Vinya Nova, use exit 575. To reach Agulles and Vermell, use exit 572. To reach Frares, Ecos and Parets, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol).

A2

Esparreguera

E15

BARCELONA Vilafranca del Penedés

C32

Direction Tarragona

2 3 C

Direction Manresa

Direction Manresa

1 2 1 1 P B 22-25 26-34

Agulles Can Maçana

41-45

54

55-58 35-40

53 B P 1 1 0 1

50

B P P1 10 1

11-13

Frares

Monistrol de Montserrat

Colonia Piug 1

Ecos

46-49 14-15

61

18-19

Vermell

60

Parets 20-21

52

59

Can Jorba 7-10

51

5-6

16-17

Direction Lleida

St. Benet

68 66-67

Vinya Nova

Monestir de Montserrat 2-4

El Bruc de Dalt

Campsite

Gorros Can Jorba 62-65

St. Joan Vinya Nova

El Bruc del Mig

Serrat dels monjos

B 1 1 1

C 5 5

A2

El Bruc residencial

2 B 1 1

Collbató

© coronn.com

Direction Barcelona

Direction Martoré

1. Colonia Piug Can Mascle North, North-East 20 m.

3

4 9 17

10 1

16

18 19

2 3, 4, 5

1. Distáncia europea 2. Autiloff 3. ? 4. Patufet 5. Patufet variant 6. Sensació de buit 7. Kendermore 8. Funt Fireforge 9. El enano 10. J'ai perdu..... 11. Deixalles, no gràcies 12. Kokinski 13. Kokorota 14. Picantus ineptus 15. Me abruma....

6

7a 6b 7a 6b 6a 6c 6b 6a 7a 6b+ 5+ 6a 6b 7a 7a

7 8,9,10

16. Kokodrilo 17. Pato mareado 18. Cerdilandia 19. ? 20. Es 3 porquets 21. Ay, que calor 22. Variant of route 21. 23. Los viejos pellejos 24. Spirit of freedom 25. Avuí si, avuí no 26. ? 27. Fen safrà 28. Un article per la fama 29. Golimbrea 30. Cantimpal

11 12

13 14 15, 16

6b+ 6b 6c 6b+ ? 6b+ 6c 7b 7b+ 7b+ ? 7c 6a+ 6b 6b+

17,18, 19,20

23 24 26 27 25

21 22

Direction Manresa Monistrol de Montserrat Colonia Piug

Direction Barcelona


© coronn.com

30 28 29

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576. On the way to Monistir from Monistrol de Montserrat you will pass this crag. Park at a lay-bay somewhere near the crag. This crag is bolted and the short routes offer pleasant sport climbing.

Monestir

2. La Granote

3. Frai Garí

North, North-East

North, North-East 40 m.

1 14 15 16 17

19 20

21

11 12 13

2 3 4 5 6

7

8 9

1. Espermicida ? 10. Takashi 2. Ratpenat 5 11. Magnum 3. X-13 5 12. Moviment dadá 4. Clara 5 13. Fisura dels debutants 5. Pique-Longue 5 14. ? 6. Marcelolandia 6b 15. Esfera luminosa 7. Media hora más contigo 5+ 16. Ester 8. Alucina carabina 6a 17. Esfera de cristal 9. Isumoto 6c 18. Pitufina How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

18

10 6a+ 6b 6c 5 ? 4 5 6b 7a

19. Shangai surprise 20. Me dais asco todos 21. Traficants de somnis

5 5 4+

Direction Sant Joan 4

2 3

Sant Miquel

Boulder

Hermita

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Park at the big car park before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to continue to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a small road on the opposite side of the gully in the direction of the campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath leading to the crag. The routes in this area have become polished with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a 7b. All the routes are bolted. Camping

Direction Monestir

4. La Rampingui North, North-East 50 m.

2b 1. Pasa capa capa la llastra llastra zapastr zapastra a 2. Travesera de dalt 2b. Número 82 3. Raticulin 4. La casa de los Martínez 5. Rafaela 6. Alta tensión

6a+ 6c 6b 6b 6a+ 6b 5

4

5

1

6

2 3,4 How to find the crag:

© coronn.com

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Park at the big car park before the bars (in the low seasons it might be possible to continue to the monastery). Pass the monastery and continue along a small road on the opposite side of the gully in the direction of the campsite. Before you reach the campsite turn right onto a footpath leading to the crag. The routes in this area have become polished with use so don't be disappointed if a grade 6 feels more like a 7b. All the routes are bolted.

Direction Sant Joan 4

2 3

Sant Miquel

Boulder Camping

Hermita Direction Monestir


5. El Faraó South, South-East 150 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the El Faraó crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You can also drive to the small village of Can Jorba, continue through the village and drive along the small road to a point where you are directly under the crag. Park and walk to the crag.

The other side

III

Ae

A1

IV V+ 6a

V IV

IV+

IV

V 6c Ae

IV

A2 V 4

Direction Santa Cecília Font del Llum

Direction Sector Frares

V IV

V-

V+

Direction Sant Jeroni


V 2 IV

8.

V

9. 7.

Ae

Ae

1

5.

6.

Direction El Bruc de Dalt

III 3 1. 2. 3. 4.

© coronn.com

Estrany Mirall Llinar Anglada-Guillamón Temple del Sol Via Normal

MD+/Ae MD/A2 MDA1

Can Jobra El Castell


6. L’Agulla de la Tempestat

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla de la tempestat crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You can also drive to the small village of Can Jorba, continue through the village and drive along the small road to a point where you are directly under the crag. Park and walk to the crag.

North, North-East 40 m. El Faraó, crag 5.

1. Vi Via a To Torr rras as -N -Nub ubio iola la

IV+ IV + Direction Santa Cecília Font del Llum




10.

8. 9.

7.

5.

6.



© coronn.com

1. Marijuana de porrera 2. Fish 3. Ruch 4. Discordia 5. Viatge imaginari 6. Correcamins 7. Variante 8. Ben petat 9. Somni diabòlic 10. Sprint final 11. Same 12. ? 13. Angle invers 14. Accés 15. Mínim esforç 16. Lourdes 17. Un poco loco

7. Agulla del Senglar 8. La Proa South 60 m.

6a 7b 7c 7a+ 8a 6b 7a+ 7c+ 8a 8a 7b 7a+ 7c+ 7a 8a 8b 8b

How to find the crag: Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the Agulla del senglar crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. About 50 metres to to the left of this crag crag you will find the L'Agulla de la Proa tower, marked as number 8 on the map. The route on this crag is called Via Torras-Nubiola Torras-Nu biola and the first pitch is graded IV+, the second pitch IV and the last pitch IV. Direction Santa Cecília Font del Llum




9. 2 3 1

4

10.

8.

8

7.

5.

6.

15 5

13

6


7,8 9

14,15

16 17

10

Can Jobra

11 12 El Castell

© coronn.com


9. L’Agulla del Castell

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the sector Can Jorba, and the Agulla del senglar crag, drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You will find the crag alongside the track.

South 50 m. 1. Via de les margarides 2. Via Ecològica 3. Via Torras-Nubiola



IV A1,V



V

A3 IV,V

IV,IV+

III, IV

10.

8.

V+ IV+

9.

IV, A1

7.

5.

6.

IV,V IV,V IV 1


V+ 2 3 Can Jobra El Castell

© coronn.com


10. L’Agulla Fina

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the L'Agulla fina crag drive to El Castell from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You will pass La Proa (crag 8.) and L'Agulla del senglar (crag 7.), then you will reach this crag.

South 100 m. 1. Via gede 2. Varinte

V VI A1 Direction Santa Cecília Font del Llum


V+

V 2

A1 Direction Sant Jeroni


IV

8.

A1

10.

9. 7.

5.

6.

V Direction El Bruc de Dalt

Can Jobra

1,2

© coronn.com

El Castell

11. L’Agulla Vista 12. L’Agulla del cor de be 13. L’Agulla del Miracle III

South 25 m. III,IV

V

IV 3.

III III

1.

A1

5. 4.

2.

6. Direction Monestir

Direction Can Maçana

1. Via gede 2. Paret est 3. Via bages 4. Via normal 5. Via normal 6. Via doble corda


11. 12. 13.


14. Direction Sant Jeroni



© coronn.com

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba and these crags turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue in the t he direction of the Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you will be just under the crags. Park at a lay-bay and find the track that leads to the left side of the crags, at a T-junction, turn right to reach the crags.

10. 9.

Direction Can Jobra

Direction El Bruc de Dalt Direction El Castell

14. La Vella


Northeast side

South and North-East 45 m.

III

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. To reach the the Can Jorba and these crags turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you will be just under the crags. Park at a laybay and find the track that leads to the left side of the crags, at a T-junction, turn left to reach the La vella crag, located to the left of the track after the track has turned from south to east.

A1 III

A2 A2

III+ A1

IV

1. Via Aresta Brucs 2. Via normal 3. Via Torras-Nubiola

A1

A0 III

A1

3.

V IV

2.

Direction Monestir


IV 1. Direction Sector Frares

11. 12.

13.


14. Direction Sector Frares

15.

Direction Can Jobra


© coronn.com


Direction El Castell


15. El Cilindre North, North-West 55 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba and these crags turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you will be just under the crags. Park at a lay-bay and find the track that leads to the left side of the crags, at a T-junction, turn left, pass the La vella crag, pass a T-junction where a track turns to the left and after this you will find this distinctive crag on your right.

III,IV

II,III

North side

IV

IV+ A1 Direction Monestir


V IV+

A2

IV

1.


11. 12.

13.


2.

1.

14.

1. Via normal 2. Via Ces



15. 10.

16.

9.

Direction Can Jobra


© coronn.com

17.



16.1. Els Plecs del Llibre South 220 m.

III V

II III

IV

IV

1.

IV,IV+ A2 IV

IV

A2 IV

IV+

IV+ III

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag.

IV IV+

1. Via Normal 2. Aresta del Sol 3. Aresta del Bellver 4. Aresta Tobogan 5. Via Arcarons

V A1 IV

V

2.

IV,IV+ V A1 IV+



IV+

IV

14.

V,V+ IV+

IV



15.

III+ V

V

IV+

III,IV

9.

IV

21.

10.

8.

A0

7.

5.

16.

6.

17.

IV Direction El Bruc de Dalt

3. IV

A0 V

4.

III,IV Can Jobra

5.

© coronn.com

El Castell


16.2. Els Plecs del Llibre

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba sector, and the El Plecs del Llibre crag drive to the village Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag.

South 220 m.

IV IV+ A2e

1. Via Vendrell 2. Via Rosaura 3. Via Trilogi

IV+,V

IV IV,IV+ IV A1,IV



IV

IV+,V

IV+

V+

14.

IV+

V IV+,V

V+ A1

IV+ V

A1,IV

IV+,V

A1 IV

9.

A1 III+

21.

10.

8.

IV,V

IV+

A1

15.

IV

IV

IV+



7.

5.

16.

6.

17.

A2 Direction El Bruc de Dalt

A1 IV+

2

IV III

III

3 1

© coronn.com



17. La Cajoleta

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba sector, and the La Cajoleta crag drive to the village Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag.

South 155 m. 1. Via Aresta Brucs 2. Via "Rayo" 3. Via Vargas-jové

III

IV

IV

III

IV

III

IV

V



14.

III

IV


III A1

15.

III

V

IV

A1 IV

III

5.

16.

6.

17.

A0 V

1


IV

IV 2

3 Can Jobra El Castell

© coronn.com


18.


18. La Roca dels Aurons

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the La roca dels Aurons crag drive to the village Can Jorba from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You will pass the La Cajoleta crag and Els plecs del Llibre crag. You can also walk along the track from the other side of the mountain, see approach to crag 11,12,13,14.

South 65 m. III

II

III III IV Direction Sector Frares

A1

19.. 19



15.

IV

IV

20.

Southeast side

16.

III1

17.

2 IV

1. Via Bages 2. Aresta nord 3. Via normal

V


VV 3

II


© coronn.com


18.


19. Roques del Salt de la Nina

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba sector, and these crags turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you are directly under the crag. Park at a lay-bay and find the track. In a T-junction, turn left to reach the crags.

North 220 m. II IV,IV+ A2,V+

IV IV+

V

IV+

IV+ V

IV,IV+

V A1 A3,VI V A2 V

V+ IV V

A2

IV+,V IV+ Direction Sector Frares

V+

A1

IV V IV

V A2

V A2

IV V,A0 IV+ A1e

V

A1 IV

11. 12. 13. 19.

V

V+

A1

Direction Monestir


IV+



V

15.

18. 20.

A1e IV+ A1e

IV II

V

V

III 2

1

1. Via Tim 2. Díedre Pericman 3. L'Esperó de L'Alba

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IV+ 3


Direction Can Jobra



20. La Salamandra North 200 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 hig highwa hway. y. To To reach reach the Can Jorba sector and the crags turn of the highway at exit 572. Continue in the direction of the Monestir de Montserrat to a point where you are directly under the crag. Park at a laybay and find the track. In a T junction, turn turn left to reach the the crags. Route number 2, Via normal, is on the south side of La Salamandra and is graded III, III, III+ and the last 20 metres is graded II.

III

V A2 V,VI 1. Via Magda 2. Via normal (not on the TOPO

V A2 V VI

V

A1

Picture: Salamandra Atra

VI

Direction Monestir

Direction Can Maçana IV

IV


19.


III


15.

18. 20.. 20 21.

III,IV

1

© coronn.com


Direction Can Jobra



21. El Montgròs

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Can Jorba, and the El Montgròs crag drive to the Can Jorba village from El Bruc de Mig. Park and walk along the track to the crag. You will pass the El Plecs del Llibre crags. Continue and take the first track to the left. When you reach a T-junction, keep left and finally to the left again to reach the crag.

North 240 m. III IV

IV,IV+

IV+

III IV,IV+ V


Direction Sector Frares V

14. Direction Sant Jeroni

Direction Sector Frares 1. Via de la graviola bella

15.

IV+,V V,A1

8.

A1,V

21.. 21

10.

9. 7.

5.

16.

6.

17.

V,A1

Direction El Bruc de Dalt IV,V

Can Jobra

1 El Castell

© coronn.com

22. L’Agulla Sense Nom

23.1. La Boleta del Portella estret

South 110 m.

South 20 m.

IV+

How to find the crag: Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to reach this crag.

1. Via Normal, L'Anec 2. Via Normal, La sense nome 3. Via Normal, LA BOLETA III

III

3

III IV+

III III

Direction El Miracle

III Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana II Direction Portella

23. 25.

27. 26.

24. 12. 11.

22.. 22 1 III

Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

2

© coronn.com




23.2. La Boleta del Portella Estret North 165 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to reach this crag.

III IV

III,IV

1. Via SAME 2. Via Iglesias-Torres Casanovas

A1e,A2e IV

IV V

III A1 A1e

IV+ A1 A0,V


A1e V+

Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

A2e

IV+

A1e

Direction Portella

23. 25.

27. 26.

24.

V A1e A1 IV+

1

12. 11.

22.

A2 VI

2



© coronn.com


24. L’Agulla Passola

25. El Gendarme

North 40 m.

North-West 25 m.

IV

A1e 1

How to find the crag: Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to reach this crag.

1. Del collet 2. G.E.D.L 3. Via normal 4. Via aresta brucs IV

2

3

III

A2e

III,IV

Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana IV Direction Portella

23.. 23

25.

27-28.

26.

24. 12. 11.

22.

III Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

4 Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

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26. La Nina

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to reach this crag.

North 35 m. V

A2e III

1. Via normal IV

A1e

1 III

Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana 29. Direction Portella

23.

25.

27-28.

26.

24. 12. 11.

22.



© coronn.com



27. La Boleta Foradada 28. L’Agulla del Centenar

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, leave the track and head for the crag.

III,IV

North 150 m.

III,IV

1. Via Anglada-Cerdà 2. Via CADE, L'Agulla del centenar

IV,V A1

V,A0

A2,A3 V,V+ A2

A2

V+

A1 Direction El Miracle

IV+ Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

V+,VI

30. 29.

V

Direction Portella

V

25.

27-28.

26.

24. 12. 11.

22.

V,V+

V,V+ Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

IV+ III

1

© coronn.com

V,A1 A1

2



29. El Bisbe


III

A1,IV

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn left and walk 100 metres and finally leave the track and head for the crag.

IV A1 IV

North 300 m.

V

III,IV

A0e V+

1. Via GAM 2. Via Carrizosa-C Carrizosa-Colt olt

A1e A1e,A2 V

A2

A1e

V+ Direction El Miracle

A1e A1,V


IV A1,V

Direction Portella

IV+,A0

V

30. 29. 27-28.

26.

31.

12. 11.

IV IV A1e IV

IV,V


III

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1


III

2


30. La Miranda del L’loro


V

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn left and walk 150 metres and finally leave the track and head for the crag.

IV

North 215 m.

A V V V

IV+

1. Via Veni, Vidi, Vinci

A1 V A1 V IV+ A1


V+ Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

V,A1

30. 29.

V

Direction Portella

27-28.

31.

26. 32.

A1

50. 12. 11.

V

Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe III

1

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31. L’Asiàtica

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn left and walk approximately 200 metres and then finally leave the track and head for the crag.

North 125 m.

IV,IV+

1. Via L'Asiàtica V

A1,A2 Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

30. 29.

Direction Portella A2

27-28.

31.

26. 32.

50. 12. 11.

Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe A2 Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

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1


32.1. El Lloro 75 m.

IV


III

III

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions, turn left and when the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and you will find the crag.

IV The east side IV

A2e

III

A2 A1

III IV

IV

A2e

IV A1

A0 A2e

IV

IV,IV+

IV+ A1e

III

IV

2 A2

V

IV Direction El Miracle

4

A2


A2

30. 29.

II

1 Direction Portella III

27-28.

31.

26. 32.

12. 11.

IV


1. Via Iglesias-roca-Sanchez 2. Via per sota l'ala 3. Via normal 4.Via cerdà

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32.2. El Lloro


IV

South 120 m. A1e

A1e

A2e

1. Via Iglesias-Casa Iglesias-Casanovas novas

A2

IV Direction El Miracle

II V


30. 29.

IV+

Direction Portella

27-28.

31.

26. 32. 33.

IV

12. 11.

III Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

II,III

1

© coronn.com



33. La Monja


IV A1e

South 130 m.


III

3.Via normal, on the other side, III,IV IV A0

III III

IV

V+

A1

IV III

Direction El Miracle V


30. 29.

IV

Direction Portella

IV+

31.

26. 32. 33.

2

12. 11.

34.

IV IV+

27-28.

1

1. Via Anglada-Vergés 2. Via sor Angustias 3. Via normal



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34. El Tub i la Patata All points of the compass 40 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and you will find the crag on your left.

IV

IV A1 V

A2

V

V+

4

IV,V A2 III,IV

Direction El Miracle A1

3

A2

Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana 31.

Direction Portella

III,IV

32. 33. 12. 11.

34.. 34

1 35.

2 1. Via navarro-estorach 2. Xemeneia Barriere 3. Via torras-nubiola 4. Via normal


36.

43. 44.


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35. La Nana

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left and after the second T-junction you will find the crag to your right.

All points of the compass 40 m. III

South side

III,IV IV+

IV IV+

A1 V

A1e

V A1

IV

Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

V IV A2,IV

31.

Direction Portella

IV

32. 33.

1

III

12. 11.

34.

3 35. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

2 1. Via paret Est 2. Via aresta Nord 3. Via aresta Brucs

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36. 37.




36. La Mamelluda North, South and East 60 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left and after the second T-junction you will find the crag to your right if you leave the track and walk in the direction of this crag on a smaller track.

III IV

III+

East side

III

IV

IV+

South side V+

3

V

IV+ III IV+ V Direction El Miracle

III Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

31.

Direction Portella

32.

III

33. 12. 11.

34.

1

35.

2

38. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

1. Via Anglada-Auqué 2. Via Pirenaica 3. Via Normal

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36. 37.




37. L’Agulla Amagada North 45 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left and after the second T-junction you will find the crag to your right after having left the main track in the direction of the crag.

II

III


Direction Portella

IV

33. 12. 11.

34.. 34 35. 38.

1

Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe Barbe

36. 37.

39.

1. Via Aresta Nord


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38. La Caputxa

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the following T-junction, hold left and in the next one, walk straight forward. You will find the crag to your left after having left the main track in the direction of the crag.

North and East 45 m.

V

III

IV,V V+

IV,V

IV,V IV+


IV

Direction Portella

1

33.

2

12. 11.

34. 35. 38.

1. Via Normal 2. Via Aresta Brucs

Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe 39.

41. 42.

36. 37.


© coronn.com


39. La Piràmide

40. El Cap d’en Calventus

III

II

IV

South 90 m.

South 50 m.

A2e III,IV

How to find the crag: III III III+ A1e

III

V

2

III,IV+ Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the following T-junction, hold left and in the next one, walk straight forward. You will find the crags to your left after having left the main track in the direction of the crag.

III Direction Portella 33. 12. 11.

34. 35.

III

38. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe 39.

1. Via Aresta Brucs 2. Via Aresta dels Brucs

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1

41. 42.

36. 37.




41. Agulla Sensa Nom 42..1. L’Agulla de la Grip All points of the compass 65 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and you will find the crag on your right after having left the main track in the direction of the crags.

III A1e

IV+

III

IV

IV

1. Via Aresta Brucs, Agulla sense nom 2. Via Aresta Brucs, L'Agulla de la grip

V

III,IV

Direction El Miracle III,IV


Direction Portella

12. 11.

34.

38. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe Vicenç Barbe

35. 36.

41. 42.

43. 44.

37.

39. 40.

1

© coronn.com


2



'

42.2. L Agulla de la Grip

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and you will find the crag on your right after having left the main track in the direction of the crags.

III

West 105 m. V-

IV+

1. Via Atxís

III IV-


IV+ Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

Direction Portella

III

12. 11.

34.


35. 36.

41. 42.

43. 44.

37.

39. 40.

1

© coronn.com




43. L’Agulla Aina

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and turn left in the next T-junction. You will find the crag on the right side of the track.

South 70 m.

IV

1. Via Bresgom

IV


IV Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

Direction Portella

12. 11.

34. IV


IV

© coronn.com

1

36.

41. 42.

43. 44.

45.




44. El Dit

III

North side

All points of the compass 105 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight ahead in the next T-junction. You will find find the crag crag on the left side of the track.

V+

IV

East side

V V

South side IV+

III

V+

IV

IV+

IV

V V

IV V

El dit inferior

4

V

V+ III

IV

IV,V

A1e

IV V

IV V,V+

A1 III

IV+

A1e Direction El Miracle

V+

V

IV

V


V

V V

3 IV

Direction Portella

III

1

12. 11.

34. 35. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

2 1. Via Aresta Brucs 2. Via Bresgom 3. Via Same 4. Via Normal

© coronn.com

41. 42.

43. 44.

45.



45. L’Agulla Fàcil 46. El Ditet South 115 m.

How to find the crag: III

IV

1. Via Auqué Muñoz 2. Via Aresta Brucs

V

III

IV

III

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. To To reach reach the Frares Frares sector, choose exit 572 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight ahead in the next T-junction. You will find the crags on your left after having left the main track in the direction of the crags.


III,IV

III+

Direction Portella

12. 11.

34.

III 35.

2


41. 42.

43. 44.

47. 45.

1 Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

© coronn.com



47. El Bacallà

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. To To reach reach the Frare Frares s sector, sector, choose choose exit 572 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and turn left in the next T-junction. Afetr approximately 150 metres you will find the crag after havin left the t he main track in the direction of the crag.

North, East 35 m.

V A2e

A2e V,A0 V

A2

V A1 Direction El Miracle

A1,A0 Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

IV+ IV

IV+

Direction Portella

12. 11.

34.

III V

1

2


41. 42.

43. 44.

47. 45. 48.

1. Via Bages 2. Díedre Oest


© coronn.com



48. L’Agulla Gran del Pas del Príncep North, South 140 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Frares sector, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following following T-junctions T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight forward in the next T-junction. Continue to the next T-junction where the right track leads to Refugie Vicenç Barbe and the left one in the direction of Coll de Port. Turn left, pass the crag El Bitllot on your right and soon you will reach this crag on the left side of the track.

IV IV IV

South side V

A1

A1 V+

IV A1

A2,A1,V II IV+

III


2

A1e,V

Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana V Direction Portella

VI-

50.

V+ V

12. 11.

1 1. Via G.E.D.E 2. Via Normal


43. 44.

47. 45. 48. 49.

© coronn.com




49. El Bitllot North-East 30 m.

IV

A1

1. Via Normal

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highwa highway. y. To reach the Frare Frares s sector, sector, choose choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right to find the track that leads to the area with towers. At the two following T-junctions keep left. After 5-10 minutes the track changes direction from Northeast to South, follow the bend and continue straight forward in the next T-junction. Continue to the next T-junction where the right track leads to Refugie Vicenç Barbe and the left one in the direction of Coll de Port. Turn left and you will find the crag on your right.

IV Direction El Miracle Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

Direction Portella 50. 12. 11.

1 41. 42. Direction Refugi Vicenç Barbe

43. 44.

47. 45. 48. 49.


© coronn.com



50. El Frare Gros A1e

South 250 m.

A2 A

1. Via Anglada-Cerdà

A2

A1 V

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highwa highway. y. To reac reach h the Frar Frares es sector, sector, choos choose e exit exit 572 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow the signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted to Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue on this road as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk to the mountains on the road that soon becomes a track. Pass the track that leads down to El Miracle and at the T-junction, turn right in the direction of Coll de Port. At the crest, in the the T-junction, T-junction, turn right right to find your way to the crag.

A1e


A1e Direction Collet de Guiró Can Maçana

Direction Portella

A1

50. 12. 11. A1


43. 44.

47. 45.

IV

48. IV 49. III

© coronn.com

1




51. El Gerro

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Agulles sector, turn of the highway at exit 572. From the village El Bruc de dalt you have to find a road in the direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. Drive as far as you are allowed to drive. Park and continue in the same direction to find this crag.

30 m. Two Multi-pitch routes, 50 m.

III

IV+

V


IV

22.

Collet de Guiró 54. III

55.

58.


56. 39. 53.

57.

2 3 Refugi Vicenç Barbe A2

4 5

1

52.

6 Direction El bruc de dalt

© coronn.com

1. Per la Nansa 2. Via Normal 3. ? 4. ? 5. ? 6. ?

6b 6c 6c 7a

L'Era dels Pallers

51.

AMiranda AMiran da de de les les Agulles Agulles

52. Miranda de la Portella


105 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. To reach the Agulles Agulles sector, use use exit 572. From the village El Bruc de dalt you have to find a road in the direction of the L'Era dels Pallers. The road turns sharp two times to the left and after that, in a bend to the right, a smaller road turns of to the left. Take that one and continue as far as you are allowed to drive. Walk along the track in the direction of the Rifugi Vicenç Barbe and after approximately 100 metres you will find the crag after having left the main track in the direction of the crag.

1. Cade 2. Capeta Torres 3. Ramonage 6a


IV

22.

Collet de Guiró 54.

55.

58.


56. 39. 53.

57.

III Refugi Vicenç Barbe

6a

IV

IV

52.

1

Direction El bruc de dalt

3

L'Era dels Pallers

2 51.

© coronn.com

AMiranda AMiran da de de les Agulles


53. L’Agulla del Sol Ponent

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, highway, to reach reach Frares, Frares, choose choose exit exit 572 (Massan (Massana) a) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to the left and follow that for approximately 200 meteres and you will find the crag on your left.

35 m.

III

6b

III

Direction El Miracle III IV

IV IV

22.


55.

58.


V+

56. 39. 53.

III

57.

III 6a Refugi Vicenç Barbe

1

4 3 2 52. Direction El bruc de dalt

1. Via aresta Brucs 2. Via Normal 3. Tot el temps del món 4. Via Aresta nord

L'Era dels Pallers

51.

© coronn.com



54. La Bandareta

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, highway, to reach reach Frares, Frares, choose choose exit 572 572 (Massana (Massana)) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Take the first track to the left and follow that for approximately 400 meteres and you will find the crag on your left.

V+

165 m.

Ae

III

IV

V

V

V V+

V

V

A2

A2

IV

VI A0

A1

IV

V+

IV+

V Direction El Miracle

IV+ V

VI

A2 A1

IV

V+

7

Ae

1 A1

22.

Collet de Guiró V+

54.

A1,IV

? A0

IV

55.

58.


56. 39. 53.

V

A1

A2

6

57.

8 Refugi Vicenç Barbe

Ae IV IV+ A2

2

3

4

1. Esperò nord 2. Canal del Ninet 3. Grisèmil 4. Barrufets 5. Ven-Suri-Ven 6. Químics 7. ? 8. Torres Nubiola

52. Direction El bruc de dalt

5,6 L'Era dels Pallers

51.

© coronn.com



55. Dumbo

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, highway, to reach Frare Frares, s, choose choose exit 572 (Massan (Massana) a) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction after the Refugi you turn left. The second smaller track to the left leads to this crag.

V+

105 m.

6a 6a

6a+

V+

7a


IV+

6a+

22.


6b

55.

58.


56. 39. 53.

57.

7a V+

6b

V+

Refugi Vicenç Barbe

V+

2 1

52.

3 4

6 5

© coronn.com


1. Esperò dels núvols 2. Edelweis Equipada 3. Lobo estepario 4. Bola de drac 5. Agradable sobremesa con una japonesa 6. Closa-Azna Closa-Aznar r

L'Era dels Pallers

51.



56. La Bola de la Partio 85 m.

A2

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, highway, to reach reach Frares, Frares, choose exit 572 (Massan (Massana) a) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you reach before the Refugi you turn left and continues for about 200 metres. You will find the crag on the right side of the track.

1. Núria 2. Santacana 3. Via Normal 4. Sidharta 5. Santboiana 6. Argonautes 7. Enigmes del temps 8. Original

A1

6a IV+ IV+


IV

V IV+

A2 A1 6a

22.

Collet de Guiró

IV+

54.

56. 39.

IV

53.

A1,V

V V

55.

58.


V

57.

6a 6a

3


A2

1 V

2

52.

III 6a A1


6a

L'Era dels Pallers

V

8

© coronn.com

4

5

6

7

51.



57. La Miranda de la Bohigues

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway highway,, to reach reach Frare Frares, s, choose choose exit exit 572 572 (Massana (Massana)) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction signposted for the Refugi to the right you continue straight forward for about 200 metres. You will find the crag to the right having left the main track in the direction of the crag.

140 m.

V+

6a

8a 6a

A0

6c

IV+ V

6a

V 6a+

III

Ae

V V+ 6a

6a

6b

IV

6b

A1,IV

IV+

A1

V

6b

A0

1


V

V

6a A2

7a+

V+

A2

A0

2

V

3

4

IV

6 7

8

IV+

10

55.

58.


56.

6a

39. 53.

5

57.

12 Refugi Vicenç Barbe

11 1. Daniel 2. La tentació viu a dalt 3. Hiwatta 4. Amor prohibit 5. Argent 6. Jumpin jack flash 7. Montpart 8. Grimpanautes 9. Garcia Vidal 10. Verdauguer Duran 11. Conchi 12. Desarreglos intestinales

© coronn.com

22.


V

V+

V+

9

V


L'Era dels Pallers

51.



58. Bessones

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway, to reach Frares, choose exit 572 (Massana) or exit 576 (Monistrol). Follow signpost for Monestir de Montserrat and just before you reach the small village of Can Maçana you should turn right onto a smaller road signposted for Collet de Guirlo, Foradada. Continue along this road and when it divides into two take the left fork. Park when you reach a T-junction and follow the track from there to this particular sector. Follow the track that leads to the Refugi Vicent Barbe and at the T-junction you reach before the Refugi you turn left and continues for about 250 metres. You will find the crag on the left side of the track.

130 m. IV A2,V

V

6a,A3 IV,A1

Direction El Miracle A2 6a+

3

6a,A3

V+ 22.


A2 V,A2e

55.

58.


56. 39. 53.

IV 6a


6a

1

2


4

© coronn.com

57.

5 1. Via Aresta Brucs 2. Hay algo aquí que va mal 3. C.E.S 4. Via Aresta Brucs 5. Via Iglesias-Casa Iglesias-Casanovas novas

L'Era dels Pallers

51.


59.1. El Cavall Bernard 260 m.

A2,V

6b A0

A2+

How to find the crag: Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del Moro. After appr approxima oximately tely 400 400 metres metres you will will see see the amazi amazing ng El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a laybay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively Alternatively,, continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and follow the track back to the crag.

6a

6c

V A0

Ae

North, northeast side

IV

6b

6c

Northwest side

6a V+

V V

Ae

6a+

A0

6a+

V+ V

V+ A0,V A2,V

IV,A0

6a+

A3

7 A3

V

Direction Monestir de St. Cecilia

V A1,V

V

Direction Monistrol de Montserrat

V+ 6a+

V+

IV+

V

V

6,7

V+ IV

V

Hotel

8

V

A1

IV+

61. 60.

Ae

1

2

V

IV

4

IV

3 5

1. Nanga Pardal 2. Puigmal 3. Gran Ilusión 4. Punsola-Reniu 5. Parsifal 6. Sabadell 7. Josep Barbarà 8. Busquets-Mas-Balaguer

59.

Direction Pla dels Ocells

© coronn.com

Direction Serra de les Lluernes

Direction Monestir de Motserrat Direction Monestir de Motserrat


59.2. El Cavall Bernard 6b

IV

180 m.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del Moro. After appr approximat oximately ely 400 400 metres metres you you will see the the amazing amazing El Cavall Bernard crag to your left. It is the crag that seems to lean out over your head. Park your car in a laybay and walk directly towards the crag. Alternatively, continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and follow the track back to the crag. To reach the south side of the tower you have to follow a track that leads up and around the crag.

V A1

III

7b

V+ South side

V+

IV

IV

IV+

Ae,IV

V+

A2,V

Ae

Ae

Ae

A1 V

3 1

A2 7c

A2

6b

IV

Ae

2,3

A0

A2

7a Ae

V

V-

V

IV+ 6c+

IV-



7

Hotel V

V+

6c

IV

8

9

V+

10 11

61. 60.

IV V V+

4

5

6

© coronn.com

1. Reina Montesinos 2. Via Normal 3. Gam 4. Aresta cavall màgic 5. Perez-Verges 6. Enigma de citamar 7. ? 8. Xavier Rabat 9. Anglada-Guillamón 10. Edelweis 11. Desiree

59.



Direction Monestir de Motserrat Direction Monestir de Motserrat


60. Patriarquese

4c

4

7a,6b

4c

3

4a

6a

5a

5a 3

6a Ae

A2

6b

5a

4

4c

5c

7a

5a 6a

1. Alfanhui 2. Danza Vertical 3. Manyos Casanovas 4. TIM 5. Carrilet 6. Cobo-Pamplona 7. Anarquia vertical

A1

6b

4c

6b+ A3,6c

5c

3 Ae,7a

5a,A1

Ae

A2,5a



A3

Ae,6b 5c

A2,6c

Hotel

A1,5c

5b,A1

Ae,6c

3 A1

6a

A2,5a

A1,7a

60. 5a

A4,5c

A1

61.

A1

A1,5a 5b

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del Moro. Continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and follow the track to the crag.

3

280 m.

A1,5c

5a

A0,4

1

5

A0,6c A1,5

5,A1

59.

4

Direction Monestir de Motserrat

5a

2

6b

3

4

3

5 6

© coronn.com

7




61. Serrat del Moro Paret

4c 5c+

360 m.

5a

Route names and grades on the next page

6a

Ae

6a

A2

A4

6a 6a

5c

6a

5a

A3

Ae

5b

Ae 6a+

4b 6a

7a

6a+ 5c

5c

5a

Ae 4c

5c 6a

12

4b

14

A4

A3

6a+

A2

7a

5c

4b

23

Ae A3

6b

5

4

5c

5c 5a

4b

4b 5b

5a

5b

4c

4c

5a

Ae,4

6a

6a 4c 5c

1 © coronn.com

5c

6b

2

18

Ae

5b

5b

A1

17

6 7 5c

4c

5

10

5b

6c 5b

6b

6c

A3

6b

5a

3

6b

A2 A3

Ae

5b A1

3

5c

4

6a

A2

4c

6b

4

6a+

5

A2

A4

6b

6b A1

Ae

6a

3

6a

5b

6b

Ae Ae A3

4c+

5a 5a

A1

4c 6a

6a

5a

A1

4c 3

5c

5c+

7b

6a Ae

A2

5a

5a

Ae

5c+

4b

4

5

5c

A5

5c

5c

9

5b

6a+ 6c

Ae 5c

5b

8

5c

A3

6b

5c

4c

6a A2

Ae

Ae

6a 5c 6a

7a+ 4b

A4

A2

5c

7a

7a+

6c

4c

5c

5c Ae

5c

5c

5c

A1

A2 Ae

4c

5

6b

6b

6a

4b

5c

4b

6b

Ae

6a 6c

A1

4c

A2+

A3

7a+

6a 6a

5a

5b 5 5a 6b Ae 4b

6a

Ae 5c

5c

5c 4c

4c 5b

5c

Ae A3

Ae

4a

5b

11

15 16 13

19

Ae

20

6c

5b

21 22

6b+

24

5

6a+

25

26


61. Serrat del Moro Paret Route names and grades Direction Monistrol de Montserrat


Hotel

61.. 61 60.

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue to the T-junction, if you turn left you will reach the Monestir (Montserrat monastery). Turn right and drive in the direction of Monestir de St. Cecilia and the mountain railway that takes tourists from the road to Mirador del Moro. Continue to the mountain railway, park in the car park and follow the track to the crag.

59.


1. Topo Toni 2. Fil. loxera 3. A donde hostias... 4. Easy Ride 5. Reencuentros 6. Lotus 7. Gesam 8. Màgic stones 9. Expósita Tudons




10. Barra Lliure 11. Pany Farrera 12. Electric ladyland 13. Frangancia tropical 14. Terra i Mar 15. Antonio Garcia P. 16. Antonio Machin 17. Mirall Impenetrable 18. Viatge Sentimenta Sentimentale le

© coronn.com

19. Anglada-Cerdà 20. Jan-Cullell 21. Valentin Casanovas 22. Cade 23. Olesa 24. Trollryggen90 25. David Aprico 26. Nicolau-Freixas-Benito



62. La Gorra Frígia North and East 180 m.

1. Badalona 2. Snoopy 3. Del carles 4. Adrià 5. Haus 6. ? 7. História Interminab Interminable le 8. Sombra a la luz... 9. Free-light 10. Bella Easo 11. Opera Prima 12. Magic line

IV+ IV IV

V

IV V+ V

V V

IV

V

IV

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla de les Tarántules. Follow the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.

III

IV+

IV

V

Direction Pla de la Trinitat


IV

IV+ IV

V+ V

III

IV

67.


V+

IV

66.

V+

IV

V

III

V

Direction St. Jeroni

V

68.

Monestir de Montserrat

12

1 2

3

4

5

V V

V+

V V

V

63.

V+

62.

IV

V

6

64. 6a

6a

IV

V

V

V

V

7 IV

V

V V

8

© coronn.com

65.

9 10

V+

11

12

Sant Miquel


63. El Sentinella

4c

4a 4a

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla de les Tarántules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.

1. Purple haze 2. Wagner 3. Pisters 4. Sulfúric 5. Pany-Farrera 6. Santaca-Gómez 7. GEDE

North and East 125 m.

A2

A1 A1

6a 4b 5a

5a


4a

6a+

A1 5a 6b+

A2

A1

67.


5a


66. 5b


68.

4c,A0 A1


5c 4c 5c

5

5c

5a

2

62.

5c

4 1

63.

3

64.

5a

65.

6

5b

5a

7

© coronn.com

Sant Miquel


64.1. La Madalena Superior

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla de les Tarántules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.


4c Northeast side

5a 5b

4c

1. Carlos 2. Simon 3. Amistat d'estiu 4. Ignasi jorba 5. Mingo Arenas

4c 5b 5c

6a


5c

5b

67.


4c


66.

5a


4b

68.


4b

63. 4c

62. 4b

3

64.

3

65.

3 Sant Miquel 2

2

1

© coronn.com

2 3 4

2

5


64.2. La Madalena Superior

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla de les Tarántules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you will find crag c rag 62 to 65 on your left.

All points of the compass 150 m. 3

4a

Southwest side

1. Susibel 2. Super frio 3. Cuca 4. ? 5. 98 Octanos 6. Four roses 7. Pirenaic

4a 4a

4a

4a 4a 4b

4a



East side A3

4

5a

4c

6b

3

3

3

6b

66.

6a 3


7b

2

67.


Ae,5a

68.

A1,4c Monestir de Montserrat

3 63.

4b

1 62.

5c

64. 65.

7 3

© coronn.com

6

5

Sant Miquel

© coronn.com

65. La Madalena Inferior


6a


Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. You will find a mouantain railway that will take you to Pla de les Tarántules. Alternatively, take a long walk and pass sant Miquel (more than one hours walk). Follow the footpath to the West and after a couple of minutes you will find crag 62 to 65 on your left.

4a

4a

4a

4a

4a

4c 6a 4c

4c 5c

5c North side

4c

5a 4c

5c

5a 4c

5a


5a 4a

4b

4b 5a

4b

7b+

4c 4b

9

4a

4c

6a+

10 6a

17

11

5a

4c

4b

5a

12

4b

5b

5c


13 1415

67.

Direction Pla dels Ocells 66.

16


68.

1


2

5a

4b

4c

6a

3

4c

4c

4

5

6

7 8

© coronn.com

1. oxigeno 2. ? 3. EAM 4. ? 5. Walt Disney 6. Via Apia 7. Albert 8. Llibertat positiva 9. Benson 10. Bi-Potens 11. Augusta 12. Mingo Arenas 13. Sebastià Patiño 14. La que hi faltava 15. Rantanplan 16. Petit Gerard 17. Xiqui

63. 62. 64. 65.

Sant Miquel


66. Miranda de Sant Benet

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn of at exit 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the refugi and after you have passed them, turn left in the T-junction and walk for about 200 metres and then head for the crag. Alternatively, take the track from Monestir de Montserrat in the direction of Pla dels Ocells. Follow the second track to the right and when you reach the T-junction where the track is coming from the rifugi, you will find the crag after having left the main track in the direction of the crag, located to the north behind the crag La Panxa del Bispe.

South-East 50 m.

1. Oio-ioo 2. Stradivarius 3. Aresta Violí 4. Scherzo finale 5. Kegel 6. Allegro fortíssimo 7. Mentes dementes 8. Eugenia ten cuidado con el hacha 9. El chancro 10. Las Cándidas 11. Víctimas del cambio 12. Missatge perdut

7a 6a

6b 6c 6c+ 7a 7a 6c+ 6c+ 6c

6a Direction Pla de la Trinitat


1 67.


6c

66. 4c


5b

68.


7

6b+

8

62.

9

3

63.

10

64.

11 12

65.

6 Sant Miquel

2,3

© coronn.com

4

5,6


67.1. La Mòmia

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100 metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one is this crag.

North 130 m.

North side IV

IV

1. Silvian 2. Gam 3. Horchata de chufa

III+


V+


6b+

67.


IV+ 6b+

66. Direction St. Jeroni

1

68.

V+

Ae


3

63. 62. 64.

2

65.

Sant Miquel

© coronn.com


67.2. La Mòmia South 160 m.

V

6a V

III

6b

6a+

6b

6b 6a+

4

6b

IV

15 16

7a

12

IV

7a

1. El Frenao 2. El Yeti 3. ? 4. Brown sugar 5. Albert Cervera 6. Escàndalo público 7. Haus Estrems 8. CESA 9. Kung Fu 10. Pirenaic 11. Kumbaya 12. santacana 13. Valor 14. La Maledicció de Tutan-Jamón 15. ? 16. Mas Guash 17. Serano

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. highway. Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserrat. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. Walk in the direction of "Ermita de Sant Benet" and the refugi and after you have passed them, turn right in the T-junction. After 100 metres you will pass a tower located on your left , that is the La Trumfa crag. Continue 100 metres to reach three towers to your left, the biggest one is this crag.

III 6a

7a

V 6c+

14

13

IV

6a

V

6a+


17 6c

IV+

IV 6a+

6b

V

6a

IV+

67.


V+

66.

6c Direction St. Jeroni

6b

V+

6a

6b

68.

7a Monestir de Montserrat

Ae

V+

iii+ IV

6a

IV+

6a

V

6b

1

2

3

7

IV+ 6a+

6c+

6a

62. 64.. 64 65.

6 6c

IV

12 10 11

6,7,8 9

© coronn.com

63.

7a

4 5


Sant Miquel


68. Roca del Cobs

Drive from Barcelona in the direction of Monserrat on the A2 highway. Turn Turn of at exit 576. 576. Turn left in the direction of Monistrol de Montserrat and continue in the direction of Monestir de Montserra Montserrat. t. When you arrive at the Monestir park and continue into the area. If you look down on the mountain railway that arrives from the road down in the valley, you will see a track that leads downwards. Follow this track and at a sharp bend to the right you leave the road/track for a smaller track and continue straight ahead to the crag.

South

6c+ 6a+

6b

6a 6a+

5c

6a

6a

5b


6a+

6a

3 6b

7b

5c

7a

4 2

1


5

67.

Direction Pla dels Ocells 66. Direction St. Jeroni

68.


1. Traversía de los Dioses 2. Noches de blanco satén 3. Por Bulerías 4. Matahari 5. Tepedes

63. 62. 64. 65.

Sant Miquel

© coronn.com

Spain Volume II

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