Sous Vide Barbecue

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edited by Mary Dan Eades photography by Mehosh Dziadzio







6 8 12 20

introduction

contents

the basics starters grilled artichokes, artichokes, deviled eggs entrées Asian short ribs, pork belly sliders, baby back pork ribs, pulled pork barbecue, barbecue chicken, nutty bird cheeseburgers, chile bacon onion burgers

38

sides potato salad, slider slaw, sweet potato fries, mango salsa, honey barbecued beans, corn on the cob

52

desserts strawberry and sour cream pound cake, vanilla ice cream with dulce de leche

60

notes measurements, Archimedes’ Principle







introduction

History tells us that not too long after the discovery of fire, some 500,000 years ago,

Incorporating sous vide cooking into the plan changes everything. By cooking food in

humans discovered the benefits (and delights) of roasting meat over it. Whether this occurred initially by design or serendipity is a matter of opinion, but the practice suited

a sous vide water bath in advance of the meal—an almost totally hands-off process— each item can be prepared at its ideal temperature temperature,, quick-chilled, and refrigerated

us so well that in virtually every culture of the world, across the millennia, we’ve been

two or even three days ahead, then given a quick warm-up and sear on the barbee

gathering around fires to roast our food ever since.

for serving. And the results are simply sublime: steaks and burgers cooked edge to

The term barbecue term barbecue is is of a more recent vintage, and though there is debate about it, probably originated in the Caribbean, where the natives preserved meat by drying it in the sun and lightly smoking it (to drive away the insects) on wooden frames. Their term for it: it: barabicu barabicu.. The process spread to Spain, Portugal, the Americas, and

edge to the perfect rare, medium-rare, medium or higher that you prefer, simply dialed in. Ribs, so juicy and tender the meat falls off the bone. Chops and chicken that stay moist and tender. No guesswork! And it’s not just about meats. Perfect corn on the cob, vibrant veggies, tender potatoes, eggs for deviling. Even desserts!

elsewhere. Transfigured into Spanish, the word became barbacoa barbacoa and and then, by the

This book will show you how to to do it all. Armed with a sous vide de water oven oven as your

late 17th Century, turned up as the English, barbecue barbecue.. In modern usage, the term

secret weapon, you’ll be cooking like a top chef in your own backyard and enjoying

has come to represent not only the frame or rack on which the meat is cooked—the

the party yourself. First some basics, and then we’ll get to the meat of the matter with

barbecue (grill)—but the process itself—barbecuing. And also, at least in the Southern

some barbecue specifics.

parts of the United States, it’s come to mean the end product—barbecue. In the US South, that generally means pork; in Maryland or Texas, it usually means beef; in other

~ Mary Dan Eades, Editor

locales, maybe mutton or goat. And, it has even come to mean the gathering itself— having a barbecue. In the warm months, who doesn’t love getting together with family and friends, around the grill in the backyard, at a park, by the lake, or on the riverbank or seashore to cook over the flames? All of us, except maybe the barbecue cook, who tends the grill, smoke in the eyes, sweating and fretting over the food: are the burgers done in the center? Chicken cooked all the way through? Steaks too rare…or overdone? Thus has it always been, until now.

6

sous vide

introduction 7







the basics

Cooking sous vide (a French term meaning under vacuum) involves vacuum-sealing a given food—meat, fish, poultry, vegetables, fruit—in a food-grade pouch and submerging it in a temperature-controlled temperature-controlled water bath for as long as it takes to bring the food to the desired temperature throughout. Food cooks gently and precisely and cannot overcook, since it can only reach the temperature of the water in the bath. Flavor and moisture that would normally escape into the air or drip into the pan stay locked in the food pouch, which produces the most flavorful, tender, and juicy food possible.

the vacuum seal—is important, as pockets of air between the pouch and the food can result in uneven cooking. When cooking sous vide, the water bath temperature is set at precisely the desired target for doneness—for instance, 146°F (63.5°C) for perfectly done chicken breasts. Foods cook gently for (at a minimum) long enough to allow the heat of the water to penetrate to the center of the food. How long that process takes has been carefully worked out mathematically for a wide variety of food types, and depends not as much on the weight of the food being cooked as on its thickness. For example, if it takes 40 minutes to bring a piece of chicken that is one-inch thick to temperature, it might take two hours to bring a two-inch thick piece to that temperature. It is important, for food safety, to carefully adhere to the minimum cooking times and holding instructions.

Chef George Pralus developed the technique in France about 40 years ago as a

The simple steps of sous vide cooking

method for perfectly cooking and minimizing the costly shrinkage of foie gras. Chef

Season your food lightly with salt and pepper, or fresh or dried herbs and spices.

Bruno Goussalt popularized the technique by introducing it in the first-class cabin

Seal the food in an appropriate sized food-grade cooking pouch. Use the vacuumseal option for most foods, and the seal-only option for foods containing more than

cuisine on Air France’s international flights. Since then, it has become a favored cooking technique of great chefs around the globe and the secret weapon of chefs in competitions. The introduction introduction in 2009 2009 of the SousVide Supreme™ Supreme™ , the first water water oven designed designed for kitchen countertops, countertops, made the technique practical for everyone, from the rank novice to the accomplished cook.

How does sous vide cooking work? Unlike traditional cooking methods, such as roasting, broiling, grilling, or sautéing, that use aggressively high temperatures to heat the air around the food, the sous vide technique relies on the superior ability of water to transfer heat to the food. Because the transfer of heat through water is many times faster than the transfer of heat through air, removing all, or at least most, of the air from the cooking pouch—creating

8

sous vide

just a tablespoon tablespoon of liquid. Use zip-closur zip-closure e cooking pouches pouches and Archimedes Archimedes’’ Principle (page 60) for foods containing a substantial amount of liquid. Simmer the food at the desired temperature in the preheated water bath for at least the minimum recommended amount of time to ensure it is heated to the center. In most cases, you can leave the food in the water bath substantially longer without loss of quality. Sear or sauce your food, if desired. All foods that have been cooked sous vide will be delicious straight from the pouch; but some benefit from a complementary sauce or a quick sear in a hot skillet, on a grill, or with a kitchen torch to impart the expected crisp, golden crust and savory flavor. Serve!

basics 9







Basic rules of sous vide barbecuing

Food safety in sous vide cooking

Plan your menu in advance. Cook foods that need some time (spare ribs, short ribs,

As with all cooking methods, methods, it is important important to use clean, ean, fresh ingredients ingredients and and to work

flank steak, pork roast, pork belly, and tough or grass fed cuts) over night or even a

with clean hands and tools on clean surfaces. When cooking food sous vide for immediate consumption—what is termed Cook-Serve—the basic rules of food handling

couple of days. Quick-chill them thoroughly (see page 11) and refrigerate. Then cook foods that take the shortest amount of time. Group foods together according to the temperatures that they cook. Red meats (steaks, burgers, lamb) can all cook at the same temperature to your preferred degree

will suffice, because the food will remain hot in the machine until serving and will get a final high-temperature sear on the barbecue. Sometimes, especially when entertaining, it is helpful to employ a technique, used

of doneness: rare, medium-rare, medium, medium-well. White meats (chicken or

widely by restaurant chefs, called Cook-Chill-Hold. In this method, food is vacuum-

turkey breast and pork chops, ribs, or roasts) can cook at the same temperature. Chicken, turkey or duck thighs and legs cook hotter—176°F (80°C)—and longer, so

sealed and cooked to completion in the water oven in advance, and then quick-chilled

they’re a breeze to do overnight. Fruits and vegetables of every type can cook at the

the so-called “danger zone.” The danger zone is the temperature range between 40°F

same temperature—in the range of 180°F (82°C) to 185°F (85°C)—simultaneously in

(5°C) and 130°F (54°C) where food-borne bacteria can grow most easily. Even though

about 30 minutes to an hour-and-a-half, depending on their tenderness or toughness.

most of the potentially harmful bacteria will be killed by sous vide cooking, some can

The length of cooking required required depends depends on two things: things: thickness of the food in the pouch and its tenderness or toughness. Tender cuts merely need to be brought to the desired temperature and finished—perhaps 45 minutes to an hour for a 1-inch piece of steak or a burger—then given a finishing quick sear. Though they may be heated through in the same hour, long, slow cooking of short ribs (48 to 72 hours) or pork shoulder for pulled pork (18 to 30 hours) allows their plentiful collagen to gelatinize and melt, giving them succulence and transforming their toughness into pull-apart tenderness.

in an ice water bath for long enough to return it to refrigerator temperature, and out of

protect themselves from the heat by hibernating as dormant forms—called spores— that can blossom again given sufficient time and favorable temperatures. To reduce the risk of food-borne food-borne illness when using using the Cook-Chill-Hold Cook-Chill-Hold method, method, folfollow these important guidelines: • Quick-chill the warm cooking pouches of food fully submerged in an ice water bath (half ice and half water) for long enough to ensure a quick drop back to refrigerated temperature. Generally this will be the same length as the minimum time required to bring the food to temperature. Add ice or freezer packs as needed.

Once you have given each food on your menu its proper culinary respect in the water oven, quick-chilled it, and refrigerated it, you’re set. Simply fill the water oven(s) on the day of your barbecue, set the temperature to the lowest cooking temperature you used—usually about 134°F (56.5°C) if red meat is on the menu—and an hour ahead,

• Immediately after chilling either refrigerate or freeze in the pouch. • Hold refrigerated pouches of sous vide cooked food for no more than 48 hours; properly frozen food pouches should remain safe for up to one year.

simply bring the chilled, cooked foods to temperature all at once. Fire up the grill and

• To ensure safety in holding, particularly with home refrigerators, be sure the refrig era-

have it hot. When you and your guests are ready to eat, give a quick surface sear to

tor compartment maintains a temperature below 40°F (5°C), and that the freezer

the food and in minutes you’ll be the King (or Queen) of barbecue cuisine!

maintains a temperature below 0°F (-17°C).

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sous vide

basics 11









s startarterters s

15 17

grilled artichok artichokes es deviled eggs







grrililleled g d artichokes

4 cloves garlic, peeled 2 teaspoons (10 ml) coarse salt (kosher or sea salt) 5 lemons (divided use) /2 cup (4 fl oz/118 ml) extra virgin olive oil 1

/8 teaspoon (0.6 ml) freshly ground black pepper (or to taste) 1

4 medium artichokes Serves 4 1 2 to 3 hours Cooking time: 1 /

1 handful fresh flat leaf parsley for garnish

1. On a cutting board, mince the garlic, then top with the salt. Using the flat of your knife across the board, mash the garlic and salt to make a paste. 2. In a large bowl, zest 4 of the lemons finely, then cut the 4 zested lemons in half and reserve. 3. Add the oil, pepper, and lemon zest and whisk to combine the marinade. Set aside. 4. In another bowl, squeeze the juice from the zested lemon halves and add an equal amount of water. Set aside. Prepare the artichokes, working one at a time 1. Cut the artichoke in half from tip to stem and in half again, making 4 wedges. 2. Dip the cut surfaces of the wedges in the lemon juice-water to prevent discoloration. 3. Remove 5 or 6 layers of the light inner leaves and use a small spoon to remove the fibrous choke. 4. Dip the trimmed wedges in lemon juice water again and then drop into the bowl with the olive oil marinade.

st starters arters 15







5. Repeat with the remaining artichokes. 6. Toss the wedges in the marinade to coat them well, and then put them into a foodgrade cooking pouch and vacuum seal. 7. Refrigerate the pouch for a couple of hours to infuse flavor into the artichokes. Cook the artichokes 1. Fill and preheat the water oven to 185°F (85°C).

deviled eggs

1 2. Submerge the pouches in the water bath and cook for 1 / 2 to 3 hours.

3. If desired, finish on the grill. Preheat a grill or grill pan to high heat, remove the artichokes from the pouch, and sear briefly on the grill to mark and add flavor.

4 eggs For lox and caper filling

2 ounces (60 g) smoked salmon lox or Nova Scotia salmon 2 tablespoons (30 ml) mayonnaise 2 teaspoons (10 ml) Dijon mustard 1 tablespoon (15 ml) pickling juice from the capers /4 teaspoon (1.25 ml) salt

Serves 4

1

Cooking time: 45 to 60 minutes

1

/4 teaspoon

(1.25 ml) black pepper

/8 teaspoon (0.75 ml)

1

4. Transfer the artichokes to a serving plate, chop the flat leaf parsley and sprinkle

Hard cook the eggs

over the top. Cut the fifth lemon into wedges to garnish the plate, if desired.

1. Fill and preheat the water oven

garlic powder

to 167°F (75°C).

1 tablespoon (15 ml) capers, drained

2. Put the eggs (up to 1 dozen, if desired)

Paprika for garnish

directly onto the bottom perforated grill

For bacon and cheddar filling

of the water oven

4 slices bacon

3. Cook for 45 minutes to 1 hour.

1

4. Remove the eggs from the water oven,

/2 cup (4 oz/125 g) mayonnaise /4 (2 oz/57 g) cup minced red onion

1

cool rapidly in cold water, and refrigerate

2 teaspoons white sugar

until ready to use.

1

Stuff and assemble the eggs with lox and caper filling ng

/2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) balsamic vinegar /4 (1.25 ml) teaspoon celery salt

1

/4 (1.25 ml) teaspoon freshly ground black pepper 1

1. Peel the cooked eggs, cut them in half, and remove the yolks to a bowl. Set the white halves aside.

/4 (0.5 oz/15 g) cup chopped fresh parsley 1

2. Dice the salmon finely and set aside. 3. Mash the yolks with a fork and add the

16

sous vide

st starter arters s 17







mayonnaise, mustard, caper juice, and seasonings, except paprika. 4. Fold the capers and salmon into the egg yolk mixture. 5. Fill each egg half with a scoop of the yolk mixture and sprinkle with paprika for color. Stuff and assemble the eggs with bacon and cheddar filling 1. Peel the cooked eggs, cut them in half, and remove the yolks to a bowl. Set the white halves aside. 2. Place the bacon in a large, deep skillet and cook over medium-high heat, turning occasionally, until evenly browned, about 10 minutes. Drain on a paper towel-lined plate; chop. 3. Mash the yolks with a fork. Add the bacon, mayonnaise, onion, sugar, vinegar, celery salt, and pepper; stir until thoroughly combined. Spoon the mixture into the egg whites. Garnish with parsley.

18

sous vide

st starter arters s 19







entrées

23 25 27 29 33 35 37

Asian short ribs pork belly sliders baby back pork ribs pulled pork barbecue barbecue chicken nutty bird cheesburgers chile bacon onion burgers









Assiaian n A

short ribs

For the Asian barbecue glaze /3 cup (1.5 oz/43 g) brown sugar, lightly packed 1

1 inch (2.5 cm) fresh ginger root, peeled and minced 3 ounces (85 g) hoisin sauce 2 tablespoons (30 ml) unseasoned rice vinegar 1 tablespoon (15 ml) soy sauce

Serves 4 Cooking time: 72 hours Make the glaze 1. Fill and preheat the water oven

1 tablespoon (5 ml) nam pla (Asian fish sauce) 2 cloves garlic, peeled and minced 2 shallots, peeled and minced

to 180°F (82°C).

/8 teaspoon Chinese Five-spice powder

2. In a small saucepan over me-

For the ribs

dium heat, melt the sugar; stir

2 pounds (32 oz/.9 kg) beef short ribs

occasionally with a fork after it has begun to visibly melt and cook until completely liquefied. 3. Stir in the ginger and set aside to cool slightly.

1

Salt and pepper to taste















7. Submerge the pouch in the water oven and cook for 30 minutes. The food must be completely submerged to ensure even cooking. 8. Remove the pouch from the water oven; quick-chill, submerged in an ice water bath (half ice, half water) and store in the refrigerator for up to several weeks. Once you open the pouch, store any unused glaze, tightly capped, in a clean jar in the refrigerator. Cook the ribs

porkrk bell po belly y sliders

1. Fill and preheat the water oven to 134°F (56.5°C). 2. Lightly season the short ribs with salt and pepper. 3. Put the ribs into two small (1 quart/.9 liter) cooking pouches and vacuum seal. 4. Submerge the pouches in the water oven and cook for 72 hours. 5. When ready to serve, heat a skillet, grill, or grill pan to high heat.

21/2 pounds (40 oz/1 kg) pork belly /4 cup (1 oz/31 g) brown sugar, lightly packed 1

1 tablespoon (15 ml) good bourbon 1 teaspoon (5 ml) crushed red chile pepper Salt and pepper to taste 1 recipe Slider Slaw (page 00) 12 slider buns

Recipe courtesy of Sharone Hakman, sharonehakman.com Serves 12 Cooking time: 10 to 18 hours

6. Remove the ribs from their pouches and pat dry.

1. Fill and preheat the water oven to 176°F (80°C).

7. Brush the Asian Glaze over all surfaces of the ribs and sear on the high heat for 45 seconds per side.

2. Put the pork belly, brown sugar, bourbon and crushed red pepper into a large

8. Serve with additional glaze, if desired

3. Submerge the pouch in the water oven and cook for at least 10 hours, but up to 18 hours will make the meat even more tender.

(1 gallon/3.8 liter) food-grade cooking pouch and vacuum seal.

4. Preheat a grill to medium heat. 5. Season the pork belly on both sides with salt and pepper to taste and grill the pork















babyback porkribs

Recipe courtesy of Sharone Hakman, sharonehakman.com

For the brine /2

1

gallon (64 fl oz/1.9 liters) water

/2 cup (4 oz/120 g) kosher salt

1

2 racks baby back pork ribs, each cut in half For the seasoning /2 cup (4 fl oz/120 ml) apple cider vinegar 1

21/2 tablespoons (37.5 ml) brown sugar

Serves 4

1 cup (8 fl oz/240 ml) heavy, dark beer (Guinness works well)

Cooking time: 12 hours

21/2 tablespoons (37.5 ml) honey

Brine the pork 1. In a large pot, make the brine for the ribs by adding the kosher

2 tablespoons (30 ml) paprika 1 bottle HAK’s Barbecue Sauce (or your favorite brand)

salt to the water and stirring until completely dissolved. 2. Divide the rib racks between two large (1 gallon/3.8 liter) zip-closure pouches. Pour half the brine into each pouch, and zip closed.















4. Put each half of the rib racks into a large (1 gallon/3.8 liter) food-grade, zip-closure zip-closure cooking pouch, pour in one quarter of the seasoning mixture, and using Archimedess’ Principle (page 60), remove as much air as possible and zip the pouch closed. 5. Submerge the pouches in the water oven and cook for 12 hours. The food must be completely submerged to ensure even cooking. 6. Preheat a grill or oven broiler to high heat. 7. Remove the pouches from the water oven, open them, remove the racks, and pat the surface dry with paper towels. 8. Brush a generous amount of barbecue sauce over the surface and sear the ribs on the grill or under the broiler to caramelize the sauce. 9. Serve immediately with additional barbecue sauce and your favorite sides.

pulled barbecue pork

Serves 12

Cooking time: 18 to 24 hours

1. Fill and preheat the water oven to 176°F (80°C).

2 tablespoons (30 ml) chili powder 2 tablespoons (30 ml) paprika 2 tablespoons (30 ml) ground black pepper 2 tablespoons (30 ml) brown sugar 1 teaspoon (5 ml) dry mustard (hot or mild) 1 teaspoon (5 ml) garlic powder /2 teaspoon (2.5 ml) cayenne pepper, or to taste 1

6 pounds (2.7 kg) pork roast (shoulder or loin) 1 cup (8 ounces/240 ml) barbecue sauce (your favorite or recipe on page 23)

2. Meanwhile, in a small bowl, make a rub for the pork by combining all spices and seasonings, mixing thoroughly. 3. Cover the pork roast on all surfaces with the rub and pat it into the meat. 4. Put the roast into a large (1 gallon/3.8 liter) food-grade cooking pouch and vacuum seal it.















8. Working with a pair of forks (or your ngers) pull the meat into shreds, discarding any bones. 9. Pile the pulled pork into a large bowl, pour on the barbecue sauce, and toss to coat the meat well. 10. Serve the meat on a plate with your favorite sides, or pile it high on a toasty bun with slaw and more barbecue sauce.

















barbecue

chicken

For the brine /2 gallon (64 oz./1.9 liter) water

1

/2 cup (4 oz/120g) kosher salt

1

4 chicken leg quarters For the seasoning rub

2 tablespoons (30 ml) paprika















nuttybirbird d

cheeseburgers

1 pound (16 oz/454 g) ground turkey 2 tablespoons (30 ml) fresh flat leaf parsley, minced 1 tablespoon (15 ml) fresh chives, minced /

1

cup (2 ounces/56.5 g) pepper















chchiile babacocon n onion oni on bur burgers

4 slices bacon, diced /2 sweet onion, peeled and diced, no larger than 1/2–inch (2.5 cm) dice 1

1 pound (16 oz/454 g) ground sirloin 1 can (4 oz/113 g) fire-roasted diced green chiles















41















salad

potato

For the vegetables

11/2 pounds (24 oz/680 g) red fingerling potatoes Salt and pepper to taste /2 red pepper, cored and diced

1

1 stalk celery, chopped





































































































































Sous Vide Barbecue

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