vegetarian recipes from m y parisian kitchen
Clotilde Dusoulier of ch choco ocol l ate an andz dz ucch ucchin ini.c i.c om
Copyright © 2013 by Clotilde Dusoulier Recipe photographs copyright copyr ight © 2013 by Françoise Nicol Paris and market photographs copyright © 2013 by Emilie Guelpa All rights reserved. Published in the United States by Clarkson Potter/ Publishers, an imprint of the Crown Publishing Group, a division of Random Ra ndom House, Inc., New York. www.crownpublishing.com www.clarksonpotter.com CLARKSON POTTER is a trademark and POTTER with colophon is a registered trademark of Random House, Inc. Library of Congress Cataloging-inCataloging- in-Publication Publication Data is available upon request. ISBN 978-0978-0-307307-9848298482-1 1 eISBN 978-0978-0-307307-9848398483-8 8 Printed in China Book and cover design by Rae Ann Spitzenberger Front cover photography © Maridav (background) and ingwervanille (food) Food styling by Virginie Michelin 10
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For Milan, who came along for the ride ride
��Nt�n�S A B O U T T H I S B O O K 9
sP�I�� page 15
sU�M�� page 59
F��l page 105
wI�T�� page 149
��Se�t�a�S page 197 A C K N O W L E D G M E N T S 2 1 9 RECIPE INDEX 220 INDEX 222
seduced by vegetables 7
sP�I�� Le printemps As tender greens and waxy pods pile up on market stalls, all I want to do is prop my basket basket open and let young and sprightly spright ly things tumble tu mble in. Spring is i s the season of effort effort-less inspiration in the kitchen. But spring in Paris comes in fits and starts, the weather alternating between golden golden days and chilly chil ly dips. And so my spring repertoire offers the kind ki nd of bright dishes I crave on promisingly sunny days, when it feels like winter has truly departed, and also al so comforting ones to lean into when when it turns out the season’s influence lingers still. Regardless of where my recipes fall in this dichotomy, they’re a celebration of the produce of spring, from and the the pop of pea pods to the snap of asparagus— asparagus— and uncontainable excitement excitement their appearance brings.
produce to pl ay with in the spring
• Artichokes
• Fava beans
• Mâche
• Radishes
• Strawberries
• Asparagus
• Garlic
• Morels
• Rhubarb
• Swiss chard
• Beets
• Green peas
• Scallions
• Turnips
• Carrots
• Kohlrabi
• New potatoes
• Sorrel
• Watercress
• Dandelions
• Lettuce
• Onions
• Spinach
aV�C�d� a�� a �� rA�I�� M��i-tA�T�n�� M��itA�T�n�� Mini-tartines Minitartines radis et avocat The classic French way of eating radishes, and the way I’ve eaten them since childhood, is as an hors d’oeuvre: You trim the radishes, leaving leaving a short tuft tuf t of stem as a little handle to pick them up, up, and serve them with chilled chil led salted butter and fresh baguette. The combination of radish, butter, salt, and bread seems like it can’t be improved upon, except perhaps if you replace the butter with avocado, which I think of as vegetable butter. For these quick minimi ni-tartines, I season the avocado with lemon juice, cumin, and a nd salt, mash it onto slim slices of baguette, and scatter paper-thin paperthin slices of pink radishes on top, like oversized confetti. Bright in color and flavor, they’re a favorite spring nibble to accompany an early evening drink at my house.
1.
Scoop the avocado flesh into a bowl. Add the lemon juice, cumin, and salt and season with pepper and hot sauce (if using). Mash the av avocado ocado roughly to get a slightly chunky texture. Taste and adjust the seasoning; it should be so zesty you have have to resist eating the whole bowl with a spoon.
2.
Slice the baguette at an a n angle into ½-inch ½-inch / 1 cm slices and spread the slices with w ith the mashed avocado.
3.
Using a mandoline slicer or very sharp knife, k nife, slice the radishes crosswise into paper-thin paper-thin rounds. Scatter on top of the avocado, sprinkle with a touch more salt, and serve.
SERVES 4 TO 6
2 avocados avocados (each (each about 7 ounces / 200 g) 4 teaspoons freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice 1 teaspoon ground cumin ½ teaspoon fine sea salt salt,, plus more for sprinkling Freshly ground black pepper Hot sauce sauce (optional) (optional) 1 slim baguette A bunch or two of small pink pink or or red radishes (about radishes (about 24 small), trimmed
spring spr ing le printemps printemps 17 •
SERVES 4
1 pound / 450 g green asparagus Fine sea salt
1�⁄� cups / 200 g shelled green peas peas,, fresh or frozen 12 large romaine lettuce leaves lettuce leaves 1 tablespoon coldpressed hazelnut oil or oil or untoasted sesame oil 1 tablespoon neutral-tasting neutraltasting oil oil,, such as grapeseed or safflower 1 tablespoon freshly squeezed lemon juice lemon juice Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup / 20 g chopped fresh chervil chervil or or cilantro leaves cilantro leaves ½ recipe BlanchRoasted New (page 23), Potatoes (page Potatoes slightly warm
V��y gR�E� gR�E� sA�A� sA�A� Salade toute verte Spring is the season I most closel closely y associate with the color green—and green— and the irresistible craving for it on my plate. I am especially fond of combining different shades of green in sa lads such as this one: the baby green of a romaine romai ne lettuce, the peppy green of fresh peas, and the darker da rker emerald emerald of asparagus, all punctuated by bright flecks of leafy herbs. The only exception to the color scheme here is the addition of hazelnuts, which bring a welcome toasty crunch, and a nd roasted new potatoes, which turn this salad into a full meal. The naming of the salad is a nostalgic nod to Le Délicabar, the much-missed much-missed restaurant once housed in Le Bon Marché, a department store in Paris, which offered an array of color- themed salads on its menu: salade toute violette, salade toute orange, and vegetable-focused dishes. salade toute blanche, among other vegetable-focused
1.
Trim the bottom of the asparagus a sparagus stalks, stal ks, just to removee the woody part. Cut the stalks at an remov a n angle into ½-inch ½inch / 1 cm slices, leaving the tips who whole. le.
2.
Set up a steamer. Sprinkle the asparagus with salt and steam, tightly covered, until cooked through but still with a little l ittle bite, bite, 4 to 5 minutes. Set aside to cool. Steam the peas in the same fashion.
3.
Cut the leaves leaves of lettuce in half hal f along their central spine, then cut at an angle into ½-inch ½-inch / 1 cm strips. You should get about 8 cups, loosely packed.
½ cup / 60 g hazelnuts,, toasted hazelnuts (see page 68) and roughly chopped
4.
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the french market cookbook
In a large la rge salad bowl, whisk whisk together both oils, the lemon juice, and ½ teaspoon salt.
before serving, add the lettuce to the dressing, dressing, 5. Just before sprinkle with pepper pe pper,, and toss to coat. Fold Fold in the asparagus, peas, chervil, and warm potatoes. 6.
Divide among 4 salad bow b owls, ls, sprinkle with the hazelnuts, and serve.
spring spr ing le printemps printemps 19 •
sH�C�i�� P��k pA�T A�T�� Pâtes rose vif For this unusual and remarkably quick pasta dish, you simply blend raw beets together with cream, garlic, and a touch of cumin. This T his produces a shocking pink sauce that is perfect for tossing with cooked pasta—preferably pasta— preferably long strands, such as spaghetti or bucatini—and bucatini— and crowning with fresh parsley and chopped almonds. If you want to push it up a notch in terms of sophistication, sophistication, roast baby beets and cut them in quarters quar ters to garnish the pasta.
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In a food processor or blender, combine the beets, cream, garlic, salt, and cumin. c umin. Process until smooth smooth.. Bring salted water to a boil in a large pot. Add the pasta and cook until it’s a minute shy of al dente. Drain, return the pasta to the pot, and fold in the sauce.. Return to medium heat and cook until heated sauce through and al dente, about 1 minute. Divide among warm bow b owls, ls, sprinkle with pepper, pepper, and top with the parsley and almonds. Serve immediately immediately..
SERVES 4
12 ounces / 340 g beets,, peeled beets and diced 1 cup / 240 ml light whipping cream or unsweetened nondairy cream alternative, such as soy or rice 1 garlic garlic clove clove 1 teaspoon fine sea salt 1 teaspoon whole cumin seeds or ½ teaspoon ground cumin 1 pound / 450 g long pasta,, such as pasta spaghetti, bucatini, or linguine Freshly ground black pepper 1 cup / 20 g chopped fresh flatflat-leaf leaf parsley parsley leaves �⁄� cup / 85 g almonds,, toasted almonds (see page 68) and roughly chopped
PREHEATING PASTA BOWLS To prevent pasta from cooling too quickly after serving, preheat the serving bowls or plates: a few minutes before your pasta is cooked, scoop a few tablespoons of the boiling pasta water into each bowl and set aside. Pour out the water just before serving; there’s no need to dry the bowls.
fall l ’ automne 115 •
