Fibre: Fibre is a type of material having continuous filaments and somewhat similar to lengths of thread. They can either be spun or twisted into yarns or can also be directly compressed into fabric. The textile, home furnishing industry makes used of many different types of fibres as its raw materials. There are a number of factors influencing the development and utilization of all different fibres. These include: • • • •
Ability to be spun Availability in sufficient quantity Economy of production Properties desired for manufacturing a particular product.
Kinds of Fibre: Fibres can be classified into: •
Natural Fibre Fibre: These fibres can be sourced from plants, animals and minerals. Types of natural fibres: - Vegetable Fibres - Animal Fibres - Mineral Fibres
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Man Made Mad e Fib Fi bre: These fibres include cellulosic and non cellulosic polymer fibres. The fibres can also be sourced from mineral fibres, metallic fibres and rubber fibres. TYPE
NAME OF FIBRE
SOURCE
Natural Fibers
Vegetable Fibres
Cotton Cot ton Fib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Linen Lin en Fib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Jute Jute Fib F ib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Hemp Hem p Fib Fib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Sisal Sis al Fib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Kapok Kap ok Fib F ib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Ramie Ram ie Fib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Coir Coir Fib F ib re
Cellulose
Vegetable Fibres
Pina Pina Fib F ib re
Cellulose
Animal Fibres
Wool Wool Fib Fibre
Protein
Animal Fibres
Silk Silk Fib F ib re
Protein
Mineral Fibres
Asbest Asb estos os Fib Fi bre
Varieties of Rock
Cotton Fibre Cotton is a natural fibre, growing in the seed pod, or boll of the cotton plant. The fibre is composed of about 90 % cellulose and around 6% moisture. The rest consists of natural impurities. Cotton has been cultivated for more than 5000 years. It has traditionally been used for textile purposes. Different types of cotton with distinctive properties have been used for industrial applications and home furnishings.
Properties of cotton fibre: Strength: 1. It is is rela relati tivel vely y stro strong ng.. 2. Strength Strength of of fibre fibre can can be defined defined by the the ability ability to resi resist st of bein being g pull pulled ed or torn torn apar apartt when when undergoes to tension.
Elasticity: Elasticity means the extent to which a fibre can be elongated by tension & then return to its original shape.
Resilience: 1. It means means the extent extent to which a fabric fabric can be deform deformed ed by compress compression ion & return return to its original condition. 2. Finishing process does a lot to improve wrinkle resistant quality of cotton goo ds.
Drapability: 1. It is concern concerned ed with with the ability ability of fabri fabricc to hang easily easily & fall fall into gracef graceful ul to shape & folds. 2. This quality quality depends depends on the kind of fibre, fibre, yarn, yarn, fabric fabric constructio construction n & finish used used to final goods.
Absorbency: 1. It deter determi mines nes the the amount amount of moist moisture ure taken taken up by the fibre from air. 2. Cotton Cotton fibre fibre is is very very absorb absorbent ent.. 3. Twist Twist in the the yarn yarn also also influenc influences es absorb absorbenc ency. y. 4. Low twis twistt yarn yarn absorbs absorbs more more moist moisture ure than than high high twisted yarn. 5. Fabr Fabric ic struc structu ture re also plays plays role role in absorb absorbenc ency. y. Loos Looser er stru struct ctur uree will will be more more abso absorb rben entt than than tighter one.
Chemical properties of cotton fibre: Reaction to alkalis: 1. Alkali Alkali does not harm harm cott cotton on fibr fibre. e. 2. Strong Strong alkali alkali solution solution (NaOH) (NaOH) improves improves the qualiti qualities es of cotton cotton fibre. fibre. 3. The treatmen treatmentt of cotton cotton fibre fibre with with sodium sodium hydroxide hydroxide & lustro lustrous. us.
Reaction to acids: Concentrated cold or diluted mineral acids like H2SO4 will damage cotton. 2. Weak organic organic acids acids like like acetic acetic acid acid will will not damage cotton. cotton. 3. Care must must be exercised exercised when when cotton cotton comes in contact contact with with acids. acids. 1.
Affinity for dyes: 1. Cotton Cotton has has a good good level level of affi affinit nity y for dyes dyes.. 2. Reactive, Reactive, vat & azoic azoic dyes are most most commonly commonly used to to dye cotton. cotton.
Resistance to perspiration: perspiration: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Human Human body body sweat sweat may may be alkal alkaline ine or acid acidic. ic. It depends depends on on the indiv individu idual’ al’ss metabol metabolism ism.. Alkali Alkali perspirati perspiration on does not harm harm cotton cotton as it is resist resistant ant to alkali. alkali. Acid perspirat perspiration ion causes a slight slight deterior deteriorating ating effect, effect, which which leads discolora discoloration. tion.
Effect of heat: 1. Cotton Cotton has the abilit ability y to withstand withstand moderate moderate heat. heat. 2. But extre extreme me heat heat will will cause cause cotton cotton goods goods burnt burnt..
Shrinkage: Cotton fibres absorb water when it is wet. 2. It tends tends to shri shrink nk as as it it dries dries.. 3. There are some some chemica chemicall availabl availablee for finishing finishing proces process. s. 4. Such Such finish finishing ing can can improv improvee its shri shrinked nked.. 1.
Applications: Cotton is used to make fabrics that are universally used for all types of : • • •
Apparel Home Furnishings Industrial Applications
Linen Fibre Linen is one of the oldest and a very popularly used fibre obtained from the stalk of the flax plant. The hair like fibres, are held together by a gummy substance known as pectin. Linen is composed of 70 percent cellulose, and 30 percent pectin, woody tissue, ash and moisture. Linen is popularly used as a generic gene ric term to describe bed, bath, table and kitchen textiles and furnishings as it was traditionally used for towels, sheets, etc. It is one of the most prestigious and expensive fibre, grown in small quantities, in various pats of the world.
Physical Characteristics: The fibre is smooth, straight and lustrous. It is more brittle and less flexible than cotton. The fibre is a lso more difficult to spin into yarn. It has a long staple fibre length when compared to cotton.
Properties of Linen Linen has a number of properties, which makes it useful for various industrial applications, use in home furnishings and apparels. Some of them are: Strength: Linen is a durable fibre, as is two-three times as strong as cotton. It is second in strength to silk. Elasticity: Elasticity is the extent to which a fibre can be elongated or stretched and the then returned to its normal condition and size. Linen is the least elastic natural fabric. Resilience: Resilience refers to the extent to which a fabric can be deformed by crushing or compressing it, and finally returning it to its original condition. Linen is quite stiff and wrinkles easily. Absorbency: Absorbency refers to the extent to which moisture can penetrate into a fiber. The fiber absorbs moisture and dries more quickly. It is excellent for manufacturing towels and handkerchiefs. Heat Conductivity: Heat conductivity refers to the extent to which heat can be conveyed through a fibre. It is most suitable for use in summers, as the fibre allows the heat to escape, leaving a cool effect. •
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Major Producers: Western Europe is the major producer of finest quality linen, China is also one of the leading producer of high quality linen. Ireland, Italy and Belgium are other significant producers. Belgium produces the best quality linen, and Ireland is known for its craftsmanship.
Applications: Linen is one of the widely used fibre used in : • • • • •
Apparels Home furnishings Commercial furnishing Upholstery Industrial application
Jute Fibre Known as the raw material for sacks all over o ver the world. Jute is truly one of the most versatile fibres gifted to man by nature that finds various uses in the form of Handicrafts. Next to cotton, jute is the chea pest and most important of all textile fibres. Jute cultivation provides work for millions of farmers, landless laborers, industrial workers and provides jobs for many others, indirectly.
Characteristics Characteristics of Jute Fibre: Jute is a long, soft, shiny fibre that can be spun into coarse, strong threads. It is one of the cheapest natural n atural fibres, and is second only to cotton in amount produced and variety of uses. Jute fibres are composed primarily of the plant materials cellulose, lignin, and pectin. Both the fibre and the plant from which it comes are commonly called jute.
Chemical composition: Cellulose
65.2 %
Hemicelluloses
22.2 %
Lignin
10.8 %
Water soluble
1.5 %
Fats & wax
0.3 %
Physical properties: 1. Spec Specif ific ic grav gravit ityy- 1.48 1.48 2. Moisture Moisture – St. St. M.R 13.75 13.75 & absorb absorb 35 – 40% 40% water water of its its dry weight. weight. 3. StrengthStrength- Tenacity-dr Tenacity-dry y 3.5-5 3.5-5 g/d g/d wet lower than dry. 4. Elasticity Elasticity-Break -Breaking ing extension extension – 1.8% Recovery Recovery (%) very very low. For high high tenacity, tenacity, less extension, high stiffness Jute fibres is brittle & can holds less twist. So Emulsion is added to make it soft. 5. Spec Specif ific ic heat heat is 0.325 0.325 6. Resiliency Resiliency-bad, -bad, Abrasion Abrasion resistanc resistancee moderate, moderate, Dimensional Dimensional stabili stability-go ty-good. od.
Chemical properties: Effect of bleaches: Not affect by oxidizing or reducing bleaches.
Acids & Alkalis: Easily damaged by hot dilute or cold concentrated co ncentrated acids. Resistant to alkalis.
Organic solvents: Resistant to organic solvents.
Sun light & heat: Poor resistant scorches at high temperature.
Resistant to stains: Poor resistant to water borne stains.
Biological properties: Scoured jute has good to excellent resistant to microorganisms & insects.
Heat: Burns rapidly, Snoldering red after glow.
Conductivity: Moderate conductor of electricity & heat.
Usage: The uses of jute are manifold although the traditional use remains in packing as sacking, hessian and carpet backing. These light weight yarns are to be used in value added textile applications like upholstery, furnishing, garments and bags etc, are just a few examples. Jute is used chiefly to make cloth for wrapping bales of raw cotton, and to make gunny sacks and gunny cloth. The fibres are also woven into curtains, chair coverings, carpets, and b urlap. However, jute is being replaced by b y synthetic materials for these uses. Very fine threads of jute are made into imitation silk. The fibres are used alone or blended with other types of fibres to make twine and rope.
Hemp Fibre Hemp is a tall woody plant with natural wood wo od fibres found in all the tropical and temperate countries of the world. The plant has nearly thirty varieties, all resembling one another in physical appearance and properties. Among the known varieties of hemp, only those possessing high luster, high tensile strength and fineness are grown on a commercial co mmercial basis. Hemp resembles flax and is often mistaken for linen. The fibre cannot be bleached easily without causing damage to the fibre.
Properties of Hemp: The following properties of the fibre make it useful in the home furnishing and other industries. Some of them are:
• • • • • •
Harsh and Stiff Durable Fine Lustrous Brittle Mattress
China, North Korea, Hungary, Romania, Poland, France and Italy are some of the important countries growing hemp.
Applications: Hemps is widely used in the home furnishing industry for manufacturing rugs an d carpets. It is also used for housing purpose and food.
Sisal Fibre Sisal is another natural fibre obtained from the leaves of a plant. It is naturally found in Africa, Central America and Florida. Sisal, also known as sisal hemp is a plant that yields a stiff fibre and is mostly used for making rope. It is the most produced natural fibre after cotton.
Physical Characteristics: Characteristics: The fibre is smooth and straight and light yellow in color. It is fairly coarse & it is extensively used because of its strength, durability, ability to stretch, affinity for certain dyestuffs, & resistance to deterioration in saltwater.
Major Countries: China, Tanzania, Madagascar, Kenya are some of the significant producers of high quality sisal, used in different applications.
Applications: Sisal is used for making a number of products including : • • • • •
Rope Twine Upholstering Mattress Carpets
Kapok Fibre Kapok is natural vegetable based fibre obtained from the seed capsules of trees grown in Java, Sumatra, and Central America. The fibre is also kno wn as silk cotton because of its natural luster similar to that of pure silk. Kapok looks similar to cotton but can be easily distinguished from it when tested under a microscope. The fibre appears like a hollow tube with very thin walls and frequent folds.
Properties of Kapok: Kapok possesses the following properties that make it useful for manufacturing different products: • • • • • • • •
Light Very Buoyant Resilient Highly Flammable Vermin Resistant Moisture Resistant Dries Quickly Smooth
Applications: Kapok has a smooth texture, but because of being weak, it is not spun into yarn. The fibre is mostly used for manufacturing mattress, cushions, upholstered furniture, pillows, life jackets etc. The fibre is also used for sound proofing and insulation.
Ramie Fibre Ramie is a natural fibre having a woody appearance that resembles flax. The natural fibre is hardly used for textiles. Various processes including extraction and cleaning are expensive, as they involve several steps.
Physical Characteristics: Characteristics: Ramie is a stiff fibre, more brittle than linen and very lustrous. The fibre can be bleached to extreme whiteness. The fibre is however unprofitable to g eneral use because the retting operation op eration is difficult and costly. The fibre has permanent luster and good affinity for dyes. It is one of the strongest natural fibres and has greater strength when wet.
Major Producers: South east Asia, China, Japan and Southern Europe are some of the major producers of ramie fiber. Philippines and Brazil are also significant producers of fine quality ramie.
Applications: Pina is often used for manufacturing: •
• • • •
Apparels: Ramie is used as a filling yarn in mixed woolen fabrics, it is also used with silk fibers and a substitute for flax. The fibre is made into fabrics for household furnishings including upholstery and canvas Ropes Twine Nets
Coir Fibre Coir is a natural, coarse brown fibre, obtained from the husk of a coconut. The fibre cells are hollow and narrow and have thick walls made up of cellulose.
Major Producers: India, Srilanka are the most important coir producing countries. The Indian state of Kerala produces around 60% of the total world coir production. produ ction.
Applications: Coir is a very useful natural fibre, finding application in : Furniture making for stuffing upholstered furniture
• • • • • •
Cordage Sail Cloth Coarse Mattings Door Mats Floor Mats Mattress
Pina Fibre Pina, or pineapple fibre, is obtained from the large leaves of the pineapple plant naturally found in tropical countries. This natural fibre is soft and lustrous and woven into pina cloth. The fibre is soft, durable and an d resistant to moisture.
Applications: Pina is often used for manufacturing: • • • •
Mats Cloth Bags Apparels
Wool Fibre Wool is a natural fibre sourced from animals. It grows from the skin of sheep, goats. Rabbit and alpacas are also used for producing high quality wool. This natural fibre is composed o f a protein known as Keratin and is a relatively coarse fibre.
Physical Characteristics: Characteristics: The fibre is wavy, crimpy and has scales on its surface. The appearance of wool varies, depending on the breed of sheep. While some fibres can be having finer scales, others can have crimp and coarser scales. Wool fibre is susceptible to heat and has a felting property, caused due to the scales on the surface.
Physical properties of wool: Strength: Wool is the weakest of the natural textile fibres. 2. Wool fibre fibre is strengthen strengthened ed by the used used of of ply ply yarns. yarns. 3. A hard twist twisted ed two ply ply yarn yarn may be regarded regarded as an assura assurance nce of durabil durability. ity. 4. Tightly Tightly twisted twisted single single yarns yarns also also make a strong strong fabric. fabric. 1.
Elasticity: 1. Depending Depending upon the quality quality of wool, the the fibre may may be stretched stretched from from 25-30 25-30 percent percent of its natural length. 2. This charact characterist eristic ic reduces reduces the the danger danger of tearin tearing g under tension. tension. 3. This charact characterist eristic ic contribut contributes es to the the free free body movements. movements. 4. Wool & wool wool blend fabrics fabrics are are given mechanic mechanical al & chemical chemical treatment treatment to to increase increase their their elasticity & provide better two way stretch. 5. The chemica chemicall treatmen treatmentt also also gives gives better better shape shape retent retention. ion.
Resilience: 1. 2. 3. 4.
Wool Wool fibre fibre has has a high high degree degree of resi resilie lience nce.. Good qualit quality y wool wool is soft soft & resil resilien ient. t. Poor Poor qualit quality y wool wool gives gives a hars harsh h feeli feeling. ng. Due to the high high degree of resil resiliency iency,, wool fabric fabric wrinkles wrinkles less less than some some others. others.
Drapability: It has excellent draping quality due to its pliability, elasticity, elasticity, and resiliency.
Effect of heat: 1. Wool becomes becomes harsh harsh at 100˚C 100˚C & begins to to decompose decompose at slightly slightly higher higher tempera temperature. ture. 2. It has plast plastic ic quality quality which which helps helps to have have shape at melting melting temperat temperature. ure.
Effect of light: Wool is weakened by prolonged exposure to sunlight.
Chemical properties of wool: Reaction to alkalis: Wool is quickly damaged by strong alkalis.
Reaction to acids: 1. Wool Wool is damaged damaged by hot hot sulp sulphur huric ic acid acid.. 2. The fibr fibree is not not affec affected ted by by other other acid acids. s.
Affinity for dyes: Wool fibre has high affinity for certain types of dyes, i.e. Acid dyes, Basic dyes.
Resistance to perspirations: perspirations: Wool is weakened by alkali perspiration. That will cause discolouration. Wool yarn Short staple Carded only
Worsted yarn Long staple Carded & combed
Major Countries: The quality of wool is determined by the breeding, b reeding, climate, food, general care and health of the sheep. Australia is the world leader manufacturing high quality merino wool. Other major producers of wool are New Zealand, Argentina, South Africa, Uruguay and the United states.
Applications: Wool is used for manufacturing various products including: • • • •
Clothing Carpets Felt Rugs
Silk Fibre Silk is a natural fibre that is a solidifies protein secretion produced by certain caterpillars.
Physical Characteristics: Characteristics: The fibre is a fine continuous strand unwound from the cocoon of silkworm. Silkworms are generally cultivated. The fibre can be fine and coarse, is lustrous, smooth, light weight, strong and elastic.
Chemical composition: Silk gum of sericin Silk or fibroin Water Salts etc
22-25 % 62.5-67 % 10-11 % 1-1.5 %
Polymer system: The silk polymer is folded linear fibroin polymer. It has no cystine linkage like wool polymer 7 has high degree of orientation. The polymer is 140 µm long & 9 µm thick, 65-70 % crystalline. It contains 16 anion acids.
Functional group: COOH, -NH2,-CONH-
Physical properties: 1. Spec Specif ific ic grav gravit ityy- 1.34 1.34 2. Mois Moistu ture re-- St. St. M.RM.R- 11% 3. Strengt Strengthh- Tenaci Tenacity ty – dry dry 4.3 g/d g/d ; wet = dry dry 92 4. Elasticity Elasticity-- Braking Braking extensio extension n – 23.4% 23.4% ; Recover Recovery y (%) – 52 5. Resiliency Resiliency-- Moderate, Moderate, Abrasion Abrasion resistance resistance-- good, Dimensional Dimensional stabili stabilityty- good. good.
Chemical properties: Effect of acid: Degraded by acid increase luster & develop scroop.
Effect of alkali: More resistance than wool, dissolves in hot concentrated solution.
Effect of bleach: Same as wool, called degumming.
Effect of organic solvent: Resistance.
Effect of heat: Poor conductivity, scorches easily due to breakage of side chain.
Effect of sunlight: Very sensitive tends to degraded. More sensitive than an y other fibre.
Effect of due: Ability- need lower temperature than any other natural fibre. Give brighter shade with direct, acid, basic & vat.
Major Countries: Japan was the first country to undertake commercial production of silk. It is ranked number one, in terms of production of fine quality silk. Other countries include: • • • • • • • • •
China India Italy Spain France Austria Turkey Greece Brazil
Applications: Silk has been used since a long time for a number of applications app lications including: • • •
Home furnishings Apparels Upholstery
Asbestos Fibre Asbestos is a natural fibre sourced from minerals, i.e. varieties of rocks found in Italy, Canada and South America.
Physical Characteristics Characteristics The soft, glossy, long and white fibres are pressed into sheets. Chrysolite asbestos has a fine and long staple that has lot of strength and flexibility. The fiber does not burn, but melts at a sufficiently high temperature. It is rustproof and acid proof.
Applications: Asbestos has been used in making fire fighting and fire resistant fabrics. It is used to manufacture commercial furnishings including theater curtains, draperies etc.
